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  <row Id="1" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="51" CreationDate="2016-01-12T18:45:19.963" Score="11" ViewCount="458" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I've printed an object I've had to choose between high resolution and quick prints.  What techniques or technologies can I use or deploy to speed up my high resolution prints?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16" LastActivityDate="2017-10-31T02:31:08.560" Title="How to obtain high resolution prints in a shorter period of time?" Tags="|resolution|speed|quality|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12" CreationDate="2016-01-12T18:45:51.287" Score="35" ViewCount="8486" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to buy a 3D printer, but I'm concerned about the health risks that are associated with its operation. Some groups of scientists say it can be &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.techworld.com/news/personal-tech/scientists-warn-of-3d-printing-health-effects-as-tech-hits-high-street-3460992/&quot;&gt;harmful&lt;/a&gt; for humans.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What do I need to consider before buying a 3D printer if I care about my health? Are there any safe printers?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20" LastEditorUserId="334" LastEditDate="2016-11-15T16:16:11.163" LastActivityDate="2019-06-10T23:18:34.190" Title="Is 3D printing safe for your health?" Tags="|print-material|safety|health|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="152" CreationDate="2016-01-12T18:46:22.083" Score="19" ViewCount="2709" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know the minimum layer height will effect how detailed of an item you can print and the amount of time it takes to print something, but is it necessary to have an extremely low minimum layer height if you plan to print only larger objects?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11" LastEditorUserId="11" LastEditDate="2016-01-12T22:00:36.347" LastActivityDate="2016-09-19T15:41:06.537" Title="How important is the minimum layer height on a 3d printer?" Tags="|quality|resolution|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1289" CreationDate="2016-01-12T18:50:55.973" Score="19" ViewCount="392" Body="&lt;p&gt;Plastic is used in 3D FDM/FFF printing partly because it had a wide temperature range for its glass state - where it can be flowed with some force, but won't flow due only to gravity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most metals have a very narrow, or non-existant, glass state.  They transition from solid to liquid with almost no flowable-but-not-liquid state.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any metals or alloys that display a glass transition state?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16" LastEditorUserId="98" LastEditDate="2016-06-09T02:10:35.890" LastActivityDate="2016-06-10T13:32:20.493" Title="Are there any metals that exhibit a large glass state?" Tags="|fdm|material|print-material|metal-parts|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="77" CreationDate="2016-01-12T18:53:53.623" Score="41" ViewCount="4096" Body="&lt;p&gt;What are the main differences when using ABS over PLA and vice versa?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11" LastEditorUserId="20" LastEditDate="2016-01-15T17:02:37.707" LastActivityDate="2017-08-02T09:49:07.263" Title="How is PLA different from ABS material?" Tags="|filament|abs|fdm|pla|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27" CreationDate="2016-01-12T18:57:13.350" Score="12" ViewCount="638" Body="&lt;p&gt;My MakerBot printer supports only two filaments at the same time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are techniques to print objects with more than two colors for one object?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2018-09-16T12:35:19.097" LastActivityDate="2018-09-16T12:35:19.097" Title="Multi-color printing with desktop 3D printer?" Tags="|filament|makerbot|dual-nozzle|color|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-01-12T18:57:48.103" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Filament is the plastic strands used as the print material for 3d printers. The most common types are PLA and ABS. There are also other types of filament that used other types of plastics as well as other materials.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11" LastEditorUserId="11" LastEditDate="2016-01-15T17:04:10.283" LastActivityDate="2016-01-15T17:04:10.283" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-01-12T18:57:48.103" Score="0" Body="For questions related to different filaments used as the print material." OwnerUserId="11" LastEditorUserId="11" LastEditDate="2016-01-15T17:04:07.180" LastActivityDate="2016-01-15T17:04:07.180" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2" CreationDate="2016-01-12T18:58:04.410" Score="18" Body="&lt;p&gt;Almost all 3D printers have issues that could cause health problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;FDM/FFF printers heat plastic to a temperature that may cause it to off-gas, and these byproducts may not be healthy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;SLA printers often use epoxies that may off-gas, or may be somewhat toxic prior to being cured.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Powder based printers can also off-gas, in addition to the powder itself presenting a possible hazard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many hobbyist and small companies dance around the problem, and suggest that the machines always be used in well ventillated areas.  Professional machines often have filters and ventillation systems built in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rather than trying to find a &quot;perfectly safe&quot; 3D printer, spend some time deciding what you want to use one for, find printers suitable for your use, and expect that you'll need to provide reasonable ventilation for almost any printer.  Plan your installation for that, and you should be able to make any printer safe for your required use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If, however, you plan on setting up a printer farm with many printers, and plan to have yourself or others spend significant time operating them, I suggest you work with a health and safety professional and have them identify possible hazards and plan mitigation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16" LastActivityDate="2016-01-12T18:58:04.410" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-12T18:59:34.417" Score="20" ViewCount="14710" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd like to print modifications for my bird feeder, both to patch over the hail damage from last summer and to try to deter the neighborhood squirrels.  I have an FDM printer (and experience with nylon, ABS, and PLA, though don't restrict answers to those if there's something else that's better), what kind of filament would stand up best to daily exposure to sun, rain, snow, etc?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-11-23T11:36:11.040" LastActivityDate="2021-11-23T11:36:11.040" Title="3D printing for outdoor use: &quot;What types of filament are most weather resistant?&quot;" Tags="|material|fdm|outdoors|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="34" CreationDate="2016-01-12T19:07:53.343" Score="61" ViewCount="96648" Body="&lt;p&gt;The surfaces of my printed parts using PLA plastic look rough and uneven.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would changing filament to a better one make any difference?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If not, what kind of methods can I use to achieve a smoother finish for my for 3D-printed objects?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2018-09-16T12:34:34.383" LastActivityDate="2019-05-14T19:08:09.893" Title="How do I give 3D-printed parts in PLA a shiny smooth finish?" Tags="|filament|pla|post-processing|surface|" AnswerCount="9" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2" CreationDate="2016-01-12T19:13:00.710" Score="23" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is very little information about safety available, as home 3D printers are relatively new. However, plastics such as ABS have a long history in making plastic products, and a study found that at traditional manufacturing methods (such as injection molding and hot wire cutting) &lt;a href=&quot;http://annhyg.oxfordjournals.org/content/57/3/399&quot;&gt;do not release dangerous levels of carcinogens and/or respiratory sensitizers in to the air&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, 3D printers are not among the processes covered in the study. In home 3D printing circles, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S1352231013005086&quot;&gt;this study&lt;/a&gt; that looks at ultrafine particle (UFP) emissions, is often cited. It finds that printing ABS releases relatively high levels of UFP's and PLA releases significantly fewer (but still quite a large amount). However, it is unclear whether/how dangerous these UFP's are in the amounts emitted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is often suggested that PLA, partly because of the reduced UFP emissions is safer to print than ABS, partly because of its &quot;natural&quot; origins as it can be derived from materials such as cornstarch. I would caution against this line of reasoning since &quot;natural&quot; materials can still be poisonous (snake venom is natural, after all) and the cornstarch is heavily processed so it hardly resembles its original form. The lower UFP emissions may suggest it is safer, but the study is only quantitative, not qualitative.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, PLA does probably pose less of a risk (despite my earlier argumentation against &quot;natural&quot; materials, PLA does play quite nicely with the human body), but I contend the risk with ABS is not too large anyways, given that it has been safely used in factories for decades.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://fire.nist.gov/bfrlpubs/fire86/art017.html&quot;&gt;Another study&lt;/a&gt; is often miscited, supposedly saying that 3D printing ABS releases hydrogen cyanide. The study only looks at the thermal decomposition of ABS, which happens at significantly higher temperatures than are reached during printing (but a significantly malfunctioning printer might cause toxic gasses to be released, but I contend that at that point you should worry about your printer being on fire, rather than temporary exposure to some toxins).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are no printers out there that are fundamentally safer than others. However, some printers have an enclosure (containing the fumes) and some even have a carbon filter and a fan for fume extraction. If you would like to err on the side of caution, this might be a good choice (but again, it is not clear if a carbon filter is totally effective).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, as printers are generally quite noisy it tends to be preferrable to keep your printer in a separate room from where you usually work. In this case, fume exposure (during the few minutes that you go to check on your print) is minimal, and the potential advantages of a &quot;safer&quot; printers or using &quot;safer&quot; materials diminish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Incidental exposure as a hobbyist is probably not a big deal; workers in factories are exposed to the fumes of melted plastic their entire lives and they don't seem to be dropping dead. On the other hand, if you are going to be printing structurally then it is probably preferable to move your printer to a separate room, if not because of health and safety because of the noise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastEditorUserId="26" LastEditDate="2016-01-12T19:21:43.353" LastActivityDate="2016-01-12T19:21:43.353" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="63" CreationDate="2016-01-12T19:18:57.943" Score="17" ViewCount="295" Body="&lt;p&gt;With an ABS or PLA extrusion 3D printer, are there any potentially negative quality differences that could occur if I try to print at a higher resolution?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am not concerned about print time as the equipment is not under high demand.  I am, however, worried the device may be more prone to fracture, likely to have defects, or have other issues I cannot currently imagine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36" LastEditorUserId="285" LastEditDate="2016-01-19T10:19:56.867" LastActivityDate="2016-01-20T12:35:27.430" Title="Resolution Drawbacks" Tags="|quality|resolution|fdm|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="47" CreationDate="2016-01-12T19:22:14.277" Score="21" ViewCount="4044" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to print parts (e.g. jewellery) for use which I don't want to look or feel like a plastic, but metal-like, so briefly people won't see much difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any specific type of home-printers that can achieve that? Or it's rather kind of filament that you should use?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20" LastActivityDate="2019-06-18T14:32:01.577" Title="How to print metal-like parts?" Tags="|filament|metal-parts|" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2" CreationDate="2016-01-12T19:25:07.817" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Apart from the inherent process itself and direct health hazards from that, many 3D printers also require some complementary technology to work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/fdm&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;fdm&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;fdm&lt;/a&gt; printers have a printing head that needs to move around in 3D space. &lt;strong&gt;Moving machinery parts can be a hazard&lt;/strong&gt;. In a home/hobbyist environment with children for example, I would recommend to buy a printer with a housing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;open&quot; designs often feature &lt;strong&gt;bare electronics&lt;/strong&gt; mounted directly to the printer structure. This rises the possibility of short circuits and electric shock.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The printers that heat material often do so at very high temperatures. &lt;strong&gt;Hot parts of the printer&lt;/strong&gt; should not be touched.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10" LastActivityDate="2016-01-12T19:25:07.817" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="88" CreationDate="2016-01-12T19:25:52.270" Score="21" ViewCount="5008" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am aware of several &quot;clear&quot; filaments for a ABS or PLA printer.  They, however, have a cloudy or frosted glass appearance. I do not believe this is possible to eliminate but I believe it can be reduced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there effective ways to make a print have a more transparent appearance?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2018-09-16T12:31:44.403" LastActivityDate="2018-09-16T12:31:44.403" Title="Are there any ways to make a 3D print transparent?" Tags="|post-processing|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4" CreationDate="2016-01-12T19:27:20.113" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I&quot;m no expert on this, but the article at &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Amorphous_metal&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Amorphous_metal&lt;/a&gt; may be relevant for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are some special alloys, such as gold/silicon and various titanium-based ones, that become &quot;bulk metal glasses&quot; if cooled extremely quickly (for example, by sputtering onto a spinning cold surface). The speed of cooling prevents crystal formation. Early BMGs were quite strong but brittle; improvements have reduced brittleness and required cooling speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2016-01-13T14:52:14.830" LastActivityDate="2016-01-13T14:52:14.830" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10" CreationDate="2016-01-12T19:28:04.263" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;PET(G) is a strong contender. It is very strong and water-resistant, and as such is often used to make pop bottles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PLA has a reputation for being &quot;biodegradable&quot; and therefore it is often discouraged to use PLA outside and/or in contact with water. However, PLA only biodegrades under very specific conditions which it won't generally be exposed to so it can be used (though, as a harder and less flexible material it is more likely to be damaged by hail).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;ABS and Nylon are good choices as well. Basically, any plastic you have on hand will last for years, even in an outside application.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastActivityDate="2016-01-12T19:28:04.263" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="62" CreationDate="2016-01-12T19:28:09.363" Score="12" ViewCount="3272" Body="&lt;p&gt;My printed parts consist rafts, supports and other extraneous filament when printing with ABS or PLA.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are efficient general techniques of removing them?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2018-09-16T12:30:51.870" LastActivityDate="2018-09-16T12:30:51.870" Title="How to easily get rid of rafts and support structures?" Tags="|support-structures|post-processing|rafts|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="60" CreationDate="2016-01-12T19:30:45.060" Score="31" ViewCount="24169" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to understand the differences between rafts, skirts and brims. They appear in the software which I'm using to edit my 3D objects.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can anybody elaborate what are these and what are the main differences between them?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20" LastActivityDate="2020-05-14T16:31:05.410" Title="What are main differences between rafts, skirts and brims?" Tags="|rafts|brims|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11" CreationDate="2016-01-12T19:32:33.503" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is called &lt;strong&gt;Acetone Finishing&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically the 3D printed part stays in acetone vapor and the outer shell turns to smooth surface. I have heard that it works better with ABS. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This article shows how &lt;em&gt;with videos&lt;/em&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;(&lt;a href=&quot;https://ultimaker.com/en/community/10412-acetone-finishing-on-pla&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Acetone Finishing on PLA&lt;/a&gt; - dead link). &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;New link: &lt;a href=&quot;https://community.ultimaker.com/topic/8530-acetone-finishing-on-pla/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Acetone Finishing on PLA&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="44" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2019-05-13T20:37:49.540" LastActivityDate="2019-05-13T20:37:49.540" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="26" CreationDate="2016-01-12T19:33:04.263" Score="10" ViewCount="1385" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've acquired all the parts to build a Reprap Prusa i3 rework, the only missing part is the frame. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm in doubt between a MDF cut (cheaper) or acrylic (more expensive), of course a cheaper one is my preferred option until I see any disadvantage on making it of wood. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I thought about variables like heat and humidity and the possibility of expansion/contraction of the frame, is this a valid concern? Will I have more precision buying the acrylic one or is it irrelevant?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18" LastEditorUserId="115" LastEditDate="2016-05-09T16:29:20.810" LastActivityDate="2016-06-15T16:16:05.850" Title="Is the weather a problem for MDF frames?" Tags="|reprap|prusa-i3-rework|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16" CreationDate="2016-01-12T19:34:41.753" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Use Taulman t-glase and after a light sanding with really fine paper (optional really, but go for it if you can), spray it with polyurethane varnish or something similar. Check out the article &lt;a href=&quot;http://3dprint.com/29292/taulman-hacks-clear-t-glase-3d-printing-material/&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="46" LastActivityDate="2016-01-12T19:34:41.753" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-01-12T19:34:50.580" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2016-01-12T19:34:50.580" LastActivityDate="2016-01-12T19:34:50.580" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-01-12T19:34:50.580" Score="0" Body="It is the 3D Printer design by RepRap Core Developer Prusajr" OwnerUserId="18" LastEditorUserId="18" LastEditDate="2016-01-15T17:02:26.853" LastActivityDate="2016-01-15T17:02:26.853" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22" CreationDate="2016-01-12T19:37:25.013" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Generally speaking, MDF will weather OK. In areas of high humidity you might experience warpage, but you can mitigate that by sealing the surface with paint or varnish.  However you will probably find that of the two materials, acrylic will be more stable over a few years.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="46" LastEditorUserId="2130" LastEditDate="2016-06-14T14:01:34.310" LastActivityDate="2016-06-14T14:01:34.310" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6" CreationDate="2016-01-12T19:38:26.670" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;The most obvious solution is to pause the print and swap filament for another color.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another option is to &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RdlqGR5n9Zk&quot;&gt;splice pieces of filament&lt;/a&gt; together, though this does not allow very precise control of when the switch happens. There is also a device that can automatically slice filament this way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, another option that uses very little external equipment is to &lt;a href=&quot;http://reprap.org/wiki/Coloring_filament&quot;&gt;use (permanent) markers to colorize light-colored filament&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other options include upgrading to a printer with more hotends, or installing a hotend with multiple filament inputs and one outputs, but these options would involve significantly changing your printer setup.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastActivityDate="2016-01-12T19:38:26.670" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32" CreationDate="2016-01-12T19:39:43.650" Score="-5" ViewCount="276" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've seen article about &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.pinkbike.com/news/Worlds-first-3D-printed-bike-2014.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;World's First 3D Printed Bike&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What kind of printer is required to do that, briefly how long it takes and how much does it cost? Is this even achievable at home? Doesn't need to be that specific one. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20" LastActivityDate="2016-01-12T19:49:01.350" Title="How to 3D print a bike?" Tags="|cost|estimation|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2016-01-13T00:50:53.240" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16" CreationDate="2016-01-12T19:45:28.083" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can make a mold from the print and then get a cast from that mold with a clear casting material.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10" LastActivityDate="2016-01-12T19:45:28.083" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11" CreationDate="2016-01-12T19:47:15.650" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your two easiest options are dipping your print in acetone or giving it an acetone vapor bath. Note this process generally only works with &lt;strong&gt;ABS&lt;/strong&gt; not &lt;strong&gt;PLA&lt;/strong&gt;, with the exception of some brands. There are &lt;a href=&quot;http://fabsterdam.com/3dprinting/smoothing-pla/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;many&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;http://fabsterdam.com/3dprinting/smooooooth/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;articles&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;https://ultimaker.com/en/community/10412-acetone-finishing-on-pla&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;online&lt;/a&gt; where you can learn more about the process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Aside from finishing, you will generally get a smoother looking end result by &lt;strong&gt;lowering the layer thickness&lt;/strong&gt;, and &lt;strong&gt;removing any hysteresis/wobble&lt;/strong&gt; in your print head making sure it's well calibrated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="45" LastActivityDate="2016-01-12T19:47:15.650" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28" CreationDate="2016-01-12T19:49:01.350" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;You will need a laser sintering or lasercusing printer, which will not be something you can buy for home use. They are horribly expensive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could always print this in PLA or ABS and cast it in aluminium. Then you have to find a safe method to test the result, because casting is not quite as simple as it looks and the bike could be seriously dangerous.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="46" LastActivityDate="2016-01-12T19:49:01.350" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="39" CreationDate="2016-01-12T19:52:25.430" Score="13" ViewCount="420" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is a 3D desktop printer &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/RepRap_project&quot;&gt;RepRap&lt;/a&gt; which can print most of its own components.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming each printed printer will print the next one and so on. Are there any limitation how many times this can be achieved?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example somebody printed for me printer and I do the same for my friends and they do the same for theirs. Can this go forever (since 3D model stays the same), or there are any serious side-effects/disadvantages of doing that continuously?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20" LastEditorUserId="20" LastEditDate="2016-01-12T20:02:32.300" LastActivityDate="2023-03-26T10:28:47.037" Title="How many times printed printer can print it-self?" Tags="|reprap|desktop-printer|replicating-printers|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11" CreationDate="2016-01-12T19:54:46.600" Score="51" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Polylactic_acid&quot;&gt;PLA&lt;/a&gt; parts can be finished with a coat of epoxy like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.smooth-on.com/Epoxy-Coatings-XTC/c1397_1429/index.html&quot;&gt;XTC-3D from Smooth-On&lt;/a&gt;. This will smooth out the part and give it a pretty nice shine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've also had a fair amount of success sanding prints, giving them a coat of automotive filler primer, and using glossy spray paint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also get great results with an acetone &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vapor_polishing&quot;&gt;vapor finish&lt;/a&gt; if you're willing to switch to &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Acrylonitrile_butadiene_styrene&quot;&gt;ABS&lt;/a&gt;. Though that will require a heated bed and can be a bit more finicky to work with than PLA.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="56" LastEditorUserId="1333" LastEditDate="2016-04-10T14:31:40.817" LastActivityDate="2016-04-10T14:31:40.817" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-12T19:57:20.273" Score="12" ViewCount="573" Body="&lt;p&gt;On a number of occasions I've broken small plastic parts that are nearly impossible to replace but could easily be 3-D printed.  The latest such mishap is the volume knob on the factory-installed radio on my car.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have little experience in 3D printing, and would like to be able to replace these parts with something very close to the original.  Spending hours measuring and designing a replacement part that should be $5 isn't really an option.  I need something to scan the broken pieces in 3D and somehow just seal up the seam where it's broken.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a scanning/printing/software system to do this that doesn't require a lot of 3D design experience?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="54" LastEditorUserId="5518" LastEditDate="2017-11-23T20:14:35.890" LastActivityDate="2017-11-26T11:35:07.460" Title="Printing Plastic Replacement Parts" Tags="|software|scanning|replacement-parts|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="36" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11" CreationDate="2016-01-12T19:58:17.790" Score="32" Body="&lt;p&gt;Acetone vaporing is a great way to smooth ABS prints. For PLA, however, acetone smoothing does not work. An &lt;a href=&quot;http://fabsterdam.com/3dprinting/smoothing-pla/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;article about smoothing PLA&lt;/a&gt; says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;This is a pity, since PLA is much easier to work with than ABS. We found some solutions for smoothing PLA, but most involve rather dangerous-sounding chemicals such as &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.protoparadigm.com/news-updates/vapor-smoothing-and-polishing-pla-with-tetrahydrofuran-thf/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Tetrahydrofuran&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:74093&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Dichloromethane&lt;/a&gt;. The one exception we found is &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.printedsolid.com/smoothpla/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Ethyl Acetate&lt;/a&gt; which seems to give good results and is (relatively) safe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other article mentioned &lt;a href=&quot;http://printedsolid.com/blogs/news/37035395-vapor-smoothing-3d-printed-parts-pla-colorfabb-xt-t-glase-pet&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;MEK Substitute&lt;/a&gt;, which is Ethyl Acetate as well. You could also try some kind of polisher manufactured for 3D print results, such as &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.smooth-on.com/Epoxy-Coatings-XTC/c1397_1429/index.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;XTC-3D&lt;/a&gt;. Here is a real photo of XTC-3D on PLA:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Auq4H.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Auq4H.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;XTC-3D on PLA, image courtesy of tiskni3ddoma.cz&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ultimaker also &lt;a href=&quot;https://ultimaker.com/en/tips-tricks/17897-vapor-treating&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;suggests using chloroform&lt;/a&gt; for smoothing PLA prints.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your parts are really uneven, it might be a symptom of something bad going on with your print(er), you might want to read &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.evernote.com/shard/s211/sh/701c36c4-ddd5-4669-a482-953d8924c71d/1ef992988295487c98c268dcdd2d687e&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Taxonomy of Z axis artifacts in extrusion-based 3d printing&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The most recognizeable cause of this problem is Z-wobble. It is caused by the misalignment of layers in a repeating pattern with a period equal to the Z thread pitch (technically the lead, but this is the same as the pitch unless you are using a multi-start thread), and was a famous problem of the original Makebot, the CupcakeCNC.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="53" LastEditorUserId="53" LastEditDate="2016-08-20T09:23:33.103" LastActivityDate="2016-08-20T09:23:33.103" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="37" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33" CreationDate="2016-01-12T19:59:01.223" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;As long as you maintain each printer and keep a proper calibration, go for it, this is what they were designed to do, I've even made replacement parts for myself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately the &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/RepRap_project#History&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;RepRap project just shut down on January 15th 2016&lt;/a&gt; due to their lack of sales.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a reprap that came from a reprap, and has made another reprap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just make sure that when printing out the pieces for the next you are properly calibrated, otherwise the next machine might be built crooked;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your only limitations will be the electronics pieces and the small amount of hardware that you will need to buy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="47" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2023-03-26T10:28:47.037" LastActivityDate="2023-03-26T10:28:47.037" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="38" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="43" CreationDate="2016-01-12T19:59:15.953" Score="10" ViewCount="5894" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a few kg of 3&amp;nbsp;mm filament when I only have use for 1.75&amp;nbsp;mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I make 1.75&amp;nbsp;mm from 3&amp;nbsp;mm filament?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-01-18T19:32:54.867" LastActivityDate="2021-03-09T05:03:10.663" Title="Conversion of 3 mm ABS filament to 1.75 mm" Tags="|filament|filament-production|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="39" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33" CreationDate="2016-01-12T20:00:22.177" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;The files used to print these objects are digital, and do not degrade in any way after each printing. There are no side effects or degradation that occurs over time due simply to printing them multiple times.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the RepRap philosophy, and the machines are actually designed with enough tolerance for printing and building mistakes that even if the print isn't perfect, it will not only work fine, but it can print a printer better than it was printed, with some care and attention to calibration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The process still takes a lot of human intervention, in the way of building the new printer and properly calibrating it.  If there are errors in the printer or the prints it produces, they can almost always be attributed to the builder/calibrator/user, and not to the design or the fact it's the Nth generation of printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16" LastActivityDate="2016-01-12T20:00:22.177" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="40" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-12T20:00:26.640" Score="4" ViewCount="294" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to print 3D desktop printer, but currently I know only &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/RepRap_project&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;RepRap&lt;/a&gt; project. Ideally I'm looking for some better quality or larger alternatives (e.g. for printing larger parts than RepRap allows).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20" LastEditorUserId="20" LastEditDate="2016-01-12T20:18:19.423" LastActivityDate="2016-01-12T20:18:19.423" Title="Alternatives to RepRap project?" Tags="|desktop-printer|rapid-prototyping|open-source|replicating-printers|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="5" ClosedDate="2016-01-13T01:21:23.983" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="41" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35" CreationDate="2016-01-12T20:02:33.247" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;The easiest way is as you currently do: model the pieces by hand, using (digital) calipers to measure them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Scanning technology isn't very good, and the models are not of printable quality. Usually, fixing a scan is more work than modeling an item from scratch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastActivityDate="2016-01-12T20:02:33.247" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="42" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="38" CreationDate="2016-01-12T20:05:08.103" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The best option is to find somebody in need of 3&amp;nbsp;mm filament and trade them for it (either in exchange for 1.75&amp;nbsp;mm filament or in exchange for legal tender with which to buy said filament).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The next best option would be to cut it into small pieces, and feed those into a filament extrusion system such as the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.filastruder.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;filastruder&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-01-18T19:33:31.563" LastActivityDate="2019-01-18T19:33:31.563" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="43" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="38" CreationDate="2016-01-12T20:05:22.530" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;In theory, making filament is easy.  You take a 3&amp;nbsp;mm hotend with a 1.75&amp;nbsp;mm hole, and extrude the 3&amp;nbsp;mm (sometimes actually 2.85&amp;nbsp;mm) filament, let it cool, and then reel it up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In reality there are a lot of pitfalls to making filament - if the pressure isn't even, the hole not perfect, the temperature uneven, you can end up with oval filament, filament with bubbles, or worse.  If you are over temperature you may damage the filament and it could look good, but not melt correctly when used.  If you reel it too fast you may thin it out more than the intended diameter, or too slow and you may thicken it. A lot of hotends use steppers, which may result in ripples in the filament, so you may end up building a nearly custom filament machine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Resolving all these problems is probably not worth simply selling or giving away the filament to someone that can use it, and buying the right size for your machine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are still interested, though, you might as well go all the way and build a full filament extruder that accepts raw plastic feedstock (usually pellets) as well as your filament, and convert it that way, then continue using it to create your own filament.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2019-01-18T15:13:48.737" LastActivityDate="2019-01-18T15:13:48.737" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="45" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="38" CreationDate="2016-01-12T20:09:37.747" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could build a machine that has a nozzle with 3 mm input hole and 1.75 mm output hole, based on some designs for filament making machines. Or you could just cut the filament into little peaces and use them instead of the granulate in an original filament making machines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are some open designs for such machines &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.instructables.com/id/Build-your-own-3d-printing-filament-factory-Filame/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;you can build&lt;/a&gt;, or you could buy one, such as &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.filabot.com/collections/filabot-core&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Filabot&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, as mentioned by &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/36/kaine&quot;&gt;kaine&lt;/a&gt;, this is very unlikely to be worth the cost/effort. Best option for you is to try to sell the 3 mm filament to someone who has a use for it, take the money and buy some 1.75 mm filament instead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="53" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T13:00:58.447" LastActivityDate="2016-01-12T20:09:37.747" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="46" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33" CreationDate="2016-01-12T20:09:47.153" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;The reprap printers have often been compared to plants, providing fruits to you and the possibility to reproduce themselves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This analogy holds in both good and bad ways. Any life form can reproduce itself only so often without artefacts (mutations) being introduced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It takes a bit of &lt;strong&gt;skill to build, configure and run a reprap printer&lt;/strong&gt;. While the parts can be passed on, that doesn't necessarily hold for gained experience.&#xA;Chances are that the parts your printer produces are not as good as those that you have received to build the printer. At least not until you caught up on the learning curve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A reprap has a lot &lt;strong&gt;other parts that are not printed and can vary in quality independently from the printed parts&lt;/strong&gt;. It makes a difference what steel rods are used, what driver circuit for the motors, etc. If you give printed parts away that are as good as those that you received yourself, the added parts are not necessarily as good as your.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My recommendation would be that &lt;strong&gt;you and your friends get printer parts from that somebody and you build your printers together&lt;/strong&gt;. While giving parts to others is a great thing, building 3D printers together with friends is greater. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10" LastActivityDate="2016-01-12T20:09:47.153" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="47" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14" CreationDate="2016-01-12T20:14:55.997" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you'd like to print on RepRap like &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fused_deposition_modeling&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;FDM printers&lt;/a&gt;, you cannot print from metal, but you can use some filament that tries to look like metal. I have good experience with &lt;a href=&quot;http://colorfabb.com/bronzefill&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Bronzefill&lt;/a&gt;, but there are plenty of others, just Google for &lt;em&gt;metal filament 3d printing&lt;/em&gt;. Note that sometimes the parts need to be post-processed with a &lt;em&gt;rock tumbler&lt;/em&gt;. There are &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/tag:rock_tumbler&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;several open source DIY tumblers&lt;/a&gt; you can build and use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you actually want to print from metal, you would need SLS (&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Selective_laser_sintering&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Selective laser sintering&lt;/a&gt;) printer, which is much more expensive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="53" LastEditorUserId="53" LastEditDate="2019-04-18T10:53:04.163" LastActivityDate="2019-04-18T10:53:04.163" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="48" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="52" CreationDate="2016-01-12T20:16:01.823" Score="21" ViewCount="4240" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am printing a print using PLA on a Prusa i3 printer and an MK8 extruder, at 210 degrees celsius, 60 mm/sec, sliced with slic3r. The print consists of a base, with 4 tower-like projections that then join with a near-vertical overhang slope that isn't posing a problem for my printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, even before the overhang begins, I am getting large amounts of strings as the extruder head jumps between the four towers in the print, leading to a &quot;spiderweb&quot; effect between them. How can I deal with these strings, and are they a warning that there might be something amiss with my printer, or possible other failures in other parts of the print?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="62" LastEditorUserId="10" LastEditDate="2016-01-12T22:46:53.270" LastActivityDate="2016-06-15T08:15:55.917" Title="What are the reasons for my 3D prints having large numbers of strings between parts of a layer?" Tags="|quality|fdm|pla|extrusion|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="49" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="57" CreationDate="2016-01-12T20:16:38.260" Score="7" ViewCount="310" Body="&lt;p&gt;When using thermoplastic-filament, this can be potentially &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/q/2/20&quot;&gt;hazardous&lt;/a&gt;, since constant printing can emit hazardous fumes and odors that may be emitted by heating the plastics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I understand it normally should be used in well ventilated areas. However I would like to use it heavily in the basement which is not well ventilated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any practical methods of limiting such exposure? For example locking it in some special box, covering it or suck the odors? Would that help?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do you have any experience doing so?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2018-09-16T12:29:43.817" LastActivityDate="2018-09-16T12:29:43.817" Title="Are there any methods of limiting exposure of hazardous fumes and odors emitted by heating the plastics?" Tags="|filament|desktop-printer|safety|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="51" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-12T20:20:17.790" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could experiment with slicing. For example, you might not need high resolution all over the object, but you can speed up some straight parts by using greater layer high there. See a &lt;a href=&quot;http://manual.slic3r.org/expert-mode/variable-layer-height&quot;&gt;part of Slic3r manual&lt;/a&gt; about such thing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is also possible to print thicker infill every Nth layer, see &lt;a href=&quot;http://manual.slic3r.org/expert-mode/infill-optimization&quot;&gt;Infill optimization&lt;/a&gt; in Slic3r.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other slicers might have those features as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="53" LastActivityDate="2016-01-12T20:20:17.790" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="52" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="48" CreationDate="2016-01-12T20:21:03.017" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;Stringing is often a result of too-high a temperature, or insufficient retraction. When there is highly liquid filament in the nozzle tip, it can adhere to the remainder of the print while dripping as the nozzle moves, leading to a thin string of the filament forming. As further travel moves are performed in each layer, this turns to a web.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The high temperature causes filament to be very liquid, causing it to move downward in the nozzle chamber easily, as opposed to having to be extruded forcefully due to viscosity. The temperature setpoint of 210 was high enough to cause this to happen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A second possible cause, insufficient retraction, can also be blamed for this issue. Retraction is a process in which the extruder reverses its movement to pull filament back up the hotend, preventing it from dripping at the tip, and forming a string. Most slicers will allow specifying a numeric value in millimeters of filament to be retracted. Remember that printers with Bowden tubes between nozzle/hotend and extruder motor will require increased retraction and priming (extrusion when starting to print after a retract-and-move). Note that too much retraction can cause other problems, such as insufficient plastic in the hotend chamber at the start of the next printing move, which can cause gaps and other issues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="62" LastActivityDate="2016-01-12T20:21:03.017" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="53" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14" CreationDate="2016-01-12T20:24:10.350" Score="4" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;parts ... I don't want to ... feel like a plastic&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is harder than looking like metal.  Plastic doesn't have nearly the density of metal, nor the thermal conductivity of metal.  So by touch people will be able to tell the difference between almost any metal item, and a plastic item that looks similar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For jewelry, as long as the wearer doesn't mind that it's not metal (they will be able to tell) you can fool most viewers with proper finishing.  Sanding/smoothing, and then painting the printed part will work for most things.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For things which dangle significantly, the swinging and action of the item may give away its density, but some objects people expect to be hollow metal can be printed in solid or high density plastic and give the same weight, though they are lower density. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Are there any specific type of home-printers that can achieve that?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For things which feel metallic, no, except for very small items where the weight and thermal conductivity won't be significant.  A laser sintering printer could make real metal parts if this is needed, but these don't fall into the category of home machines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't mind a multi step process, you can make molds of the printed object, then cast real metal, or very high density epoxies, to accomplish your goal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Beyond that, a high resolution machine with a lot of hand-finishing work is going to get you as close as you'll get to looking like metal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16" LastEditorUserId="30" LastEditDate="2016-01-13T12:37:29.580" LastActivityDate="2016-01-13T12:37:29.580" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="54" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-12T20:24:44.003" Score="7" ViewCount="8637" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to print a model of an animal cell.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I have so far: I managed to use different colors to print out the different parts of the cell.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;My question is: what is the best way to connect plastic 3d printed parts?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Glue? Melted plastic? I need it to have a strong connection and not very visible when used well, and preferable dries fast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="50" LastEditorUserId="26" LastEditDate="2016-11-15T13:51:19.163" LastActivityDate="2016-11-15T13:51:19.163" Title="What is the best way to connect 3D printed parts?" Tags="|post-processing|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="10" ClosedDate="2016-01-13T16:18:26.563" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="55" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20" CreationDate="2016-01-12T20:29:04.273" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;All three of these features are used to improve the quality and success rate of prints, especially those failing due to issues on the first few layers, or due to the small size of the first layer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Raft&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A raft is a horizontal feature made as the first few layers of a print, and is used to help with bed adhesion issues, primarily used with ABS. The first few layers printed are the brim (typically prismatic), with the part itself on top of it (with a small separation distance to aid in separation, to allow the part to be removed from the raft). This separation distance needs to be adjusted to allow the first layer of the actual part to adhere, but also for the raft to be removed easily.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Skirt&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A skirt is a single-layer feature designed to help extruder priming and to establish a stable filament flow for an optimal first layer. They are generally a few passes around the first layer &amp;quot;footprint&amp;quot; in the rough shape of the first layer, but they do not touch the part itself or help adhesion directly (although having a primed and ready extruder helps extrusion on its own).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Brim&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A brim can be considered a skirt touching the first layer shape. It is used to help adhesion, and increases the first layer surface area (thus having more area to adhere to the bed). Brims are best used for parts with small first layers that fail to adhere properly. They are generally done as perimeters (as opposed to the crosshatching of infill) to be easily removable without damaging the part.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="62" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:29:41.667" LastActivityDate="2016-01-12T20:29:04.273" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="56" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="54" CreationDate="2016-01-12T20:29:13.343" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;For ABS print, I recommend &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Acetone&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;acetone&lt;/a&gt;. It is not a glue, but it will dissolve the plastic a bit and if you apply it to both connecting parts and push them together, they will stay connected after the acetone dries. However, it does not dry very fast and you have to be careful not to destroy the object.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For PLA I usually use regular super glue (&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cyanoacrylate&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Cyanoacrylate&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="53" LastEditorUserId="16" LastEditDate="2016-01-13T19:46:45.340" LastActivityDate="2016-01-13T19:46:45.340" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="57" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="49" CreationDate="2016-01-12T20:30:29.773" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Using negative pressure ventilation and a suitable organic filter will limit your exposure to toxic compounds, but won't completely remove them from your environment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Enclose your printer in as air-tight a box as you can manage, then use a fan to suck air out of the box.  This negative pressure will ensure that any leaks in the box will not allow gasses to escape.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The air should be blown through an organic filter.  This might be done with face mask filters for painting, for instance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additional filtering may be done depending on the compounds you expect the printer to produce, but the ideal situation is to set up a ventilation system to the outdoors where the products cannot concentrate and harm anyone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another poorer option is to simply wear a proper organic filter mask yourself.  It's not as good, since the compounds can spread through your residence or remain in the air and be inhaled when you aren't printing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16" LastActivityDate="2016-01-12T20:30:29.773" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="58" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-12T20:30:50.323" Score="2" ViewCount="65" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've made a few 3D prints at school on what I assume are very low-end 3D printers, but they seem cheap, flimsy, and pretty ugly.  How much better quality can I expect from professional-level 3D printers (those commonly used by online printing services)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="54" LastActivityDate="2016-01-12T20:30:50.323" Title="Home vs. Professional Print Quality" Tags="|quality|resolution|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2016-01-12T21:53:52.977" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="59" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="67" CreationDate="2016-01-12T20:37:19.573" Score="43" ViewCount="3894" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is it possible to re-use ABS or PLA filament material from printed parts?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If so, what is the techniques to reform it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2018-09-16T12:29:06.593" LastActivityDate="2021-12-02T12:13:18.933" Title="How to recycle filament material from printed parts?" Tags="|pla|abs|recycling|filament-production|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="60" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20" CreationDate="2016-01-12T20:38:38.450" Score="46" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Rafts:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rafts are a few layers of plastic a placed on the printing surface before the object is printed.  If non water dissoluble filament is used, a bit of an air gap will be placed between the raft and the print itself so it can be removed easily. A raft can help a print stick to the printing surface as it normally has a larger surface area than the bottom of the print.  It also allows the bottom layers of the print to contact another layer of plastic so there is less spreading compared to printing on the printing bed itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rOghMm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rOghMm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;A raft in Slic3r (green)&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Skirts:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Skirts are loops of plastic that are extruded around the object that is being printed.  On the first layer this allows the filament to get pushed through the extruder so that a steady flow can be established.  A multiple layer skirt can be used to create a blockage around the print so there is less air movement on the print and the print can cool slower.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1XEmnm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1XEmnm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;A skirt in Slic3r (green)&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Brims:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A brim is a layer of plastic that is placed on the first layer of the print go allow for better adhesion to the printing surface.  It does not extend under the print as a raft does, but only goes from the edge of the print to a set distance away.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9MnlZm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9MnlZm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;A brim in Slic3r (green)&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Credits: Images from Slic3r&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="43" LastEditorUserId="20" LastEditDate="2016-01-12T21:11:10.253" LastActivityDate="2016-01-12T21:11:10.253" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="61" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="86" CreationDate="2016-01-12T20:40:43.047" Score="31" ViewCount="33853" Body="&lt;p&gt;I print ABS on a LulzBot Taz 5 and frequently have issues with the corners of objects lifting off the bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My extruder is at 230&amp;nbsp;°C and the bed is at 90&amp;nbsp;°C for the first layer and 100&amp;nbsp;°C for the rest of the layers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have experimented with using ABS slurry (ABS + acetone) on the bed for increased adhesion, building a foam enclosure for the printer, and varying the fan speed. I have noticed the problem is more common the taller the parts are and the sharper the corner is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Adding ABS slurry helped for smaller parts (less than an inch tall) but with my more recent larger parts the adhesion to the bed was so good that the corners of the part lifting actually peeled the PEI tape off of the bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have tried using both a skirt and a brim with no change. The skirt stays on the bed, the brim gets pulled up with the corner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="66" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-07-29T09:25:30.893" LastActivityDate="2018-07-29T09:29:24.913" Title="Why do the corners of my ABS object lift off the bed?" Tags="|extruder|abs|heated-bed|lulzbot|" AnswerCount="11" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="62" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19" CreationDate="2016-01-12T20:42:23.543" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;The best way to get rid of them is to change the design of the printed object to make them unnecessary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Instead of printing the one part with support material, the piece can be split into two or more parts which can be printed without support material and assembled after the printing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given that this is not always fully possible, a convenient way to get rid of additional structures is to use a different fillament for them that can be removed easily. &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.matterhackers.com/3d-printer-filament-compare&quot;&gt;This list of printing materials&lt;/a&gt; includes Polyvinyl Acetate (&lt;strong&gt;PVA&lt;/strong&gt;), which is water soluble. You can wash the support material away given that your actual printign material is not water soluble. Here's a quote from the website (emphasize mine):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;PVA (Polyvinyl Acetate) filament prints translucent with a slightly yellow tint and is &lt;strong&gt;primarily used as a 3D printing support material&lt;/strong&gt; because it is water-soluble, meaning that &lt;strong&gt;it will dissolve when exposed to water&lt;/strong&gt; (and so MUST be kept dry prior to use). PVA is most often used with 3D printers capable of dual extrusion: one extruder printing a primary material (such as ABS or PLA) and the other printing this dissolvable filament to provide support for overhanging features. PVA 3D printer filament is available in 1.75mm and 3mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10" LastActivityDate="2016-01-12T20:42:23.543" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="63" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13" CreationDate="2016-01-12T20:43:25.427" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;The biggest effect I've see on resolution is due to plastic stress due to thermal gradients.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The higher resolution prints build up more layers of material, and each layer has a cumulative effect on thermal stress.  The upper layers pulling up more as they cool, and the lower layers curling up more strongly as the layer count is increased.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To counteract this, a heated (or even just a draft free) enclosure makes a big difference.  Having a heated print bed helps significantly, as long as the bed itself resists deformation (a sheet metal or PCB bed will bend more than glass under the same tension, for instance).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The actual plastic strength, however, appears increased.  Laying down thinner layers of material appears to increase the bond strength between layers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16" LastActivityDate="2016-01-12T20:43:25.427" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="65" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="69" CreationDate="2016-01-12T20:49:28.873" Score="21" ViewCount="84226" Body="&lt;p&gt;Taken from the &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/60/47&quot;&gt;answer provided by @EricJohnson&lt;/a&gt;,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When should I use a raft, and when should I use a brim? What advantages does each have over the other?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Raft&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rOghM.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rOghM.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Brim&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9MnlZ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9MnlZ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="47" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T13:00:58.447" LastActivityDate="2021-04-27T21:34:18.540" Title="When should I use a raft, when should I use a brim?" Tags="|rafts|brims|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="66" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19" CreationDate="2016-01-12T20:53:44.620" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Increasing the distance between the support/raft and the print should allow for easier removal.  Some slicers (such as Slic3r) have settings for 0.0 mm spacing for water dissoluble supports, and 0.2 mm for regular plastic supports.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Changing the upper surface of the support also can help.  Some slicers will leave the support as lines all the way to contact with the print.  Others will put a full layer on the top of the support before the print.  The full layer allows for better adhesion and the print not falling between the lines, but it makes it harder to remove.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the raft/support is done with lines, putting pressure on the lines in the opposite direction should cause them to break off.  As you break some of the outer ones, the support can be pulled down which will continuously rip the support off.  There may be a few pieces that remain.  These can be removed with wood chisels. Sliding the pointed end between the support and the print will cut into the plastic which removes the support.  &lt;em&gt;Note: always push the chisel away from you as it may slip.  You do not want a sharp blade moving uncontrollably towards your body./&lt;/em&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A raft with a solid top:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/K3uKu.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/K3uKu.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Raft with solid top from Slic3r&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A raft with only lines for the top:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iMmvy.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iMmvy.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Raft with no top (only lines) from Slic3r&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="43" LastEditorUserId="43" LastEditDate="2016-01-13T17:31:58.943" LastActivityDate="2016-01-13T17:31:58.943" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="67" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="59" CreationDate="2016-01-12T20:55:28.330" Score="32" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a few options.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Machines are available which grind the used plastic into fine pieces, melt it down, and extrude it as filament to be reused. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.filabot.com/&quot;&gt;Filabot&lt;/a&gt; is perhaps the most well known.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Depending on where you live the local recycling programs may accept PLA or ABS. They will then shred it and melt it down for reuse.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;PLA is bio-degradable so you can put it in the compost.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I put scrap ABS in acetone which results in a slurry which can be used as a glue to attach ABS parts, fix cracks, and hold parts to the bed.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="66" LastActivityDate="2016-01-12T20:55:28.330" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="68" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="65" CreationDate="2016-01-12T20:56:24.540" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;A raft helps when the part has few points of contact with the print bed, and doesn't therefore adhere well at points within and without the part.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A brim helps when the part doesn't adhere well around the perimeter of the part.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are very rare situations where you'll need both, but typically you'll only use one or the other.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16" LastActivityDate="2016-01-12T20:56:24.540" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="69" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="65" CreationDate="2016-01-12T21:00:27.820" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;A raft will allow for better adhesion for the whole print as the raft attaches to the printing surface and the print attaches to the raft. Rafts go all the way under the print and consist of multiple layers, whereas a brim is only 1 layer and on the outside of the print. Rafts are normally harder to remove than brims because of the increased contact with the print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From my own experiences, the brim does not help a lot with layer adhesion as it is only 1 layer. I normally use a raft when I need a nice looking 1st layer that is not on the bed or when there are not enough contact points.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="43" LastEditorUserId="26" LastEditDate="2017-11-20T13:12:48.660" LastActivityDate="2017-11-20T13:12:48.660" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="70" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="75" CreationDate="2016-01-12T21:00:36.337" Score="7" ViewCount="256" Body="&lt;p&gt;My print is warping and I suspect it is because of uneven cooling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can ensure my print cools evenly? Should I put a fan on the bed? Will no fan and a tall skirt help?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or are my edges curling up for another reason?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="47" LastEditorUserId="9134" LastEditDate="2018-01-29T21:22:14.093" LastActivityDate="2018-01-29T21:22:14.093" Title="My print is warping: how can I ensure that it cools evenly?" Tags="|adhesion|warping|cooling|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="71" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="65" CreationDate="2016-01-12T21:01:54.937" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;A raft is used to prevent warping. Instead of printing directly on the build surface, parts are built on top of it. You remove and dispose of a raft post-print. The raft is larger than the part and so has more adhesion. Rafts are primarily used with ABS to help with bed adhesion. Rafts are also used to help stabilize models with small footprints (e.g. a pole), or to create a strong foundation on which to build the upper layers of a model. If your only concern is bed adhesion it is better to use a brim.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A brim is attached to a model and extends outward. Brims typically have several outlines and may be a few layers tall. Brims are often used to stabilize small parts of a model, such as legs of a table, because brims help these areas stay connected to the print bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;TL;DR&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The brim is only around a model and attached to its first layer, a raft is also under it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="33" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:29:41.667" LastActivityDate="2019-06-24T07:35:21.103" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="72" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="61" CreationDate="2016-01-12T21:02:18.617" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The solution I prefer to prevent ABS withdrawal is using &lt;a href=&quot;http://reprap.org/wiki/BlueTape&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Blue tape&lt;/a&gt; on the bed, and then spread a thin layer of &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Polyvinyl_acetate&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Polyvinyl acetate&lt;/a&gt; (Vinavil glue). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your printer allows it, you can also print with the bed at 110°C.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="78" LastActivityDate="2016-01-12T21:02:18.617" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="73" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="54" CreationDate="2016-01-12T21:08:55.993" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;After doing the processes that hroncok described, the edges of the print can be finished with a 3D printing pen.  The pen extrudes filament as a regular print head does, but is hand held.  The filament can be extruded on the previous gap between the two prints.  It will melt between the two sides and can be finished to create a smooth connection point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="43" LastActivityDate="2016-01-12T21:08:55.993" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="74" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="61" CreationDate="2016-01-12T21:09:01.157" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a common problem with ABS. You might prevent it by enclosing the printer inside a box/chamber - that will create a warmer environment and the extruded material will cool down more slowly, hence not creating such a tension.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other option is to use PLA instead if possible, the problem is not so significant with PLA.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="53" LastActivityDate="2016-01-12T21:09:01.157" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="75" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="70" CreationDate="2016-01-12T21:09:56.233" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Without more information we cannot address what is causing your edges to turn up. This can depend on the model being printed, the process, the material, the bed, and the method used to bond it to the bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as the initial question, a fan will most certainly ensure &lt;em&gt;uneven&lt;/em&gt; cooling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The middle of the print is, and will remain, the warmest.  If you want the print to cool evenly, you'll need an enclosure to block out drafts and air currents, and you'll need to bring the heated bed temperature and enclosure temperature down slowly over a long period of time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16" LastActivityDate="2016-01-12T21:09:56.233" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="76" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="61" CreationDate="2016-01-12T21:25:52.927" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Adding a manually added brim with a larger bulk at the corner extremities that you can cut off after printing should help. My larger prints come off the printer looking like tents with concrete weights tied to their corners.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The 'weights' are attached to the print by very short a 2-3 layer (depending on print size) brim-like strip that makes them easy to remove using side cutters. The 'weights' are usually enough to hold the corners of my target print on the plate in conjuction with a weak slurry.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="77" LastActivityDate="2016-01-12T21:25:52.927" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="77" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5" CreationDate="2016-01-12T21:29:04.420" Score="29" Body="&lt;p&gt;Paraphrasing &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.protoparadigm.com/news-updates/the-difference-between-abs-and-pla-for-3d-printing/&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; site. Feel free to add suggestions in the form of comments and I will try to incorporate them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Summary&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;ABS: Stronger, machinable, more flexible, and more temperature&#xA;resistant than PLA. Typically printed on a heated bed. Warping is a common problem when printing ABS.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;PLA: Wider range of filaments available, easier and in some cases faster to print. Not as strong as ABS and the fact that its biodegradable could be seen as both a benefit and a drawback.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Material Properties:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;ABS: Strong plastic with mild flexibility. Naturally beige in color. Can be filled and sanded. Higher temperature. Easy to recycle.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;PLA: Not as strong as ABS but more rigid. Naturally transparent. More difficult to fill and sand. Can sag in hot temperatures. Sourced from organic matter so it can be broken down in commercial compost facilities.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Part Accuracy:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;ABS: Part warping is a significant issue. Sharp corners will often be rounded.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;PLA: Less heat required contributes to less warping. Becomes more liquid at common extruder temperatures so finer details can be printed.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Safety and Handling:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;ABS: Strong burning/melting plastic smell is present when printing ABS. Health concerns have been raised regarding airborne ultrafine particles generated while printing with ABS (&lt;a href=&quot;https://dx.doi.org/10.1016%2Fj.atmosenv.2013.06.050&quot;&gt;ref&lt;/a&gt;). ABS will absorb moisture causing popping when the moisture enters the hot end. This leads to discontinuities in the print job.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;PLA: Doesn't smell as strongly when printing due to its organic nature. Moisture can also be absorbed into PLA and can irreversibly damage it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="66" LastEditorUserId="66" LastEditDate="2016-01-13T08:19:01.157" LastActivityDate="2016-01-13T08:19:01.157" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="78" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="80" CreationDate="2016-01-12T21:30:33.083" Score="12" ViewCount="4966" Body="&lt;p&gt;I made a test print for a small gear (~ 1.5 inches in diameter) a few months ago, with a hole through the center. On the first try, the filament (ABS) fused to the print bed, meaning that I had to spend ten minutes scraping off material to loosen it. One solution to this is to use painter's tape spread across the print bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This yielded a good print during the next run. The problem with this method was that some of the tape subsequently fused to the backside of the gear; it was so tight that I had to discard the prototype. Multiple varieties of tape made no difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a way to continue using this tape without having it fuse to the filament?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="61" LastEditorUserId="61" LastEditDate="2016-01-13T23:14:17.547" LastActivityDate="2016-02-22T22:29:01.050" Title="How can I stop my print bed tape from sticking to the filament?" Tags="|abs|filament|maintenance|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="79" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14" CreationDate="2016-01-12T21:35:11.777" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Colorfabb metal filaments are the most metal-like filaments I've used (copper, brass, and bronze) and probably the ones that would make the most sense for jewelry.  While not as dense as solid metal, it's about 3 times as dense as regular plastic and when polished the metal shows through.  Print at 100% infill to make it heavier. Bronzefill is about 3.9g/cm³, about 80% metal by weight, maybe 30-40% by volume.  I wouldn't say the polished result feel like solid metal, but it feels even less like plastic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's also Filamet, which promises to be almost entirely made of metal and can be sintered into solid metal, but it hasn't been released yet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="91" LastActivityDate="2016-01-12T21:35:11.777" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="80" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="78" CreationDate="2016-01-12T21:46:37.550" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;This can highly depend on the slicer you are using. Some software such as Makerware and Slic3r allow you to adjust the settings for the first raft/part layers. I might suggest adjusting this &quot;Z0&quot; point to about 1/4-1/2 of your layer height. Essentially the first layer (or two) will not adhere as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is just one suggestion of many solutions. Here are some other variables I could think of off-hand:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Type of build plate tape (ie masking, painters, kapton, etc.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Type of material. I've noticed that PLA is very stubborn if you let the part completely cool after printing and that it's much easier to remove the part from the build plate/raft right after it's complete.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Type of build plate. Are you applying too much heat (if you have a heated bp) for the material such as PLA?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Try lowering your layer height. This will ensure that each strand does not have too much surface area and therefore less chance that it will create a vacuum affect with the build plate. This can, however, result in a worse surface finish.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="98" LastActivityDate="2016-01-12T21:46:37.550" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="81" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="85" CreationDate="2016-01-12T21:50:45.197" Score="15" ViewCount="12979" Body="&lt;p&gt;Acetone can be used to smooth ABS prints.  What safety precautions should be taken during its use?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="43" LastEditorUserId="43" LastEditDate="2016-01-12T22:02:04.253" LastActivityDate="2019-04-12T14:58:42.420" Title="Safety precautions when using acetone" Tags="|abs|acetone|safety|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="82" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="61" CreationDate="2016-01-12T21:54:00.417" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most common problem with corners is to low temperature of heated bed. Set the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.matterhackers.com/articles/how-to-succeed-when-printing-with-abs#abs3&quot;&gt;heated bed temperature to 110°&lt;/a&gt;. If this will not help then try to set &lt;a href=&quot;http://manual.slic3r.org/expert-mode/skirt&quot;&gt;brim in your slicer&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem can be cause by other issues. You can find additional tips in following Troubleshooting Guides:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/#curling-or-rough-corners&quot;&gt;overheating&lt;/a&gt; (simplify3d: Print Quality Troubleshooting Guide)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://reprap.org/wiki/Print_Troubleshooting_Pictorial_Guide#Corner_Lift&quot;&gt;differential cooling of printed object&lt;/a&gt; (reprap.org: Print Troubleshooting Pictorial Guide)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/23-a-visual-ultimaker-troubleshooting-guide#warping&quot;&gt;warping&lt;/a&gt; (A visual Ultimaker troubleshooting guide)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://all3dp.com/common-3d-printing-problems-and-their-solutions/&quot;&gt;warping&lt;/a&gt; (all3dp.com: 16 Common 3D Printing Problems)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="75" LastActivityDate="2016-01-12T21:54:00.417" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="83" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="146" CreationDate="2016-01-12T21:55:29.397" Score="17" ViewCount="1731" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to print multiple parts continuously (non-interactively), so&#xA;I can leave the printer alone for a longer time. So after finish, parts could be moved somehow out from the printing area, so the next can start.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any methods of achieving that with standard desktop printers without having to use multiple printers?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20" LastEditorUserId="138" LastEditDate="2016-01-13T10:08:44.443" LastActivityDate="2023-03-27T16:00:27.560" Title="How to automate printing of multiple parts continuously?" Tags="|desktop-printer|automation|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="84" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="98" CreationDate="2016-01-12T21:57:01.307" Score="25" ViewCount="5852" Body="&lt;p&gt;For standard ABS and PLA filament, most distributors recommend storing the filament in an airtight bag.  Does not doing this actually make print quality worse?  I have left mine in the open for a year and have had no noticeable problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="43" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2018-09-16T12:28:38.923" LastActivityDate="2018-09-16T12:28:38.923" Title="Does filament have to be stored in an airtight environment?" Tags="|filament|pla|abs|storage|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="85" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="81" CreationDate="2016-01-12T22:00:04.173" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a few main safety precautions you should consider.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://sinkhacks.com/building-acetone-vapor-bath-smoothing-3d-printed-parts/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Make sure the area is well-ventilated.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; Acetone is flammable. A buildup of acetone gas could quickly get concentrated, meaning that a single spark could lead to disaster. Using a fan is good; angle it towards an open window. This is also to prevent exposure to acetone because of its toxicity.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sciencelab.com/msds.php?msdsId=9927062&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Be prepared to fight a fire.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; Should vapor ignite, you may need to fight the fire. If it is large enough, then you should clearly evacuate the area. If it appears to be small, use dry chemical powder to snuff out the fire. Alcohol foam, water spray, and/or fog may be used on slightly larger fires. Acetone is not likely to cause a large inferno to rip through the building. But there's always the chance of a small fire. Be careful.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://rivercitylabs.org/acetone-smoothing-chamber-3d-printing/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Create a vapor chamber.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; This is another way to stop a potential fire from spreading. It can also reduce contamination.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Wear gloves.&lt;/strong&gt; This can minimize any potential transfer toxic effects. However, skin exposure is unlikely to cause major issues.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Acetone is toxic, as I mentioned before, but it is not highly toxic. Exposure via &lt;a href=&quot;http://ccohs.ca/oshanswers/chemicals/chem_profiles/acetone.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;the eyes and nose/mouth&lt;/a&gt; is the main risk. Skin effects may occur (e.g. mild irritation), but they are minor and generally arise only after long-term exposure (hence the recommendation of gloves in some cases).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Acetone exposure is only a serious problem when a person is repeatedly exposed to levels &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cdc.gov/niosh/idlh/67641.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;greater than 1,000 ppm&lt;/a&gt; (severe effects only arise at much higher levels). It seems unlikely, given a proper ventilation system, that this will be an issue&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition to all this, basic safety precautions such as wearing a ventilator mask and goggles should definitely be taken. When working with any such chemicals with the potential for bodily harm, these should absolutely be used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="61" LastEditorUserId="61" LastEditDate="2016-01-15T22:48:46.997" LastActivityDate="2016-01-15T22:48:46.997" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="86" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="61" CreationDate="2016-01-12T22:01:42.880" Score="19" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are many different approaches to solving this issue and most of the answers already are spot-on. However, the fundamental reason for the &quot;warping&quot; is incorrect and inconsistent temperature across the material.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If there is too much fluctuation in the temperature across the object in this heated state can result in warping. The reason you see this mostly on the build plate is because the temperature of the first few layers of molten plastic vary much more against the build plate than against higher layers. Note that you can see additional warping mid-print using ABS and this can be a result of a draft or sudden drop in ambient temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, to help solve your problem, here are some suggestions (sorry if there are duplicates):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Completely &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/1292/should-i-enclose-my-3d-printer&quot;&gt;enclose/seal your machine's build area&lt;/a&gt; to reduce (or eliminate if possible) draft and prevent the natural heat of the machine from escaping.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Increase the temperature on your build plate. I almost exclusively use ABS on my printer and I keep my HBP at about 112C. However, I live in the NW of the US, so my climate is naturally cooler than say Florida.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Alternatively, &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/1251/how-to-choose-an-extrusion-temperature&quot;&gt;try decreasing the nozzle temperature&lt;/a&gt; to a lower point within the ABS melting range. This will just shorten the gap between the inconsistencies in temperature across layers. It is typically better to print at lower temperatures if you can help it. Obviously there are differences in the filament, so you'll have to find that &quot;sweet spot&quot;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/470/bed-leveling-method/479#479&quot;&gt;Ensure your build plate is flat&lt;/a&gt; and your tape doesn't have bubbles. Your BP being flat should be a no brainer, but if your kapton tape (or whatever you use) has bubbles, your freshly printed plastic may not be getting the same temperature from the BP as the rest of your part. This is a bad thing as mentioned earlier.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use extra adhesion techniques such as &quot;ABS Glue&quot; (ABS w/ acetone) or even hairspray. This works about 80% of the time for me, but can make it a bit difficult when removing the parts off the BP.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="98" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T13:00:58.447" LastActivityDate="2016-06-15T22:38:30.763" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="87" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="84" CreationDate="2016-01-12T22:07:41.150" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Humidity may be the problem.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://3dprint.com/68083/airtight-filament-delivery/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Humidity tends to degrade filament, making it weaker.&lt;/a&gt; If you leave a coil of filament out, over time it will be exposed to humidity. I have yet to hear of this happening over a short period of time - the real threat comes if you leave it out for weeks or months - but it can happen nonetheless.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Contamination with other materials is possible but unlikely. The odds of some sort of impurity developing from nearby particles is extremely low unless the filament is actively exposed to some other material.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In most cases, though, things should be just fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="61" LastEditorUserId="61" LastEditDate="2016-01-13T01:55:12.040" LastActivityDate="2016-01-13T01:55:12.040" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="88" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16" CreationDate="2016-01-12T22:07:56.873" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;It depends on a lot of factors, type of plastic, whether the parts need to be strong, can you use a vase print, etc.  Here's a few thoughts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PLA - The brand of PLA makes a big difference, some can be printed very clear, some can't.  Most of the transparent PLAs I've used print much more clear at around 240°C.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;ABS - I've seen some pretty impressive clear parts printed as a single layer shell in ABS and then vapor smoothed. I tend to find ABS more translucent and less transparent though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PETG - Again the specific PETG you use matters, but I haven't seen nearly as much variation as with PLA.  I'm not sure how much temperature matters, but if it's too hot you get bubbles which will decrease clarity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thin Wall Prints - I don't have much experience here, but the Smooth On XTC-3D or vapor smoothing seem to be effective.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Solid Prints&#xA;If I want transparency, I usually print it at 100% infill (should be a real 100%, too much overextrusion or underextrusion will decrease transparency).  Printing slower and with less cooling sometimes helps.  It's easier to get the infill solid with a direct drive extruder, I couldn't get decent results with a long bowden tube (a short bowden tube works fine).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a page where I tested 10 transparent filaments, the printed samples are 2mm thick, 100% infill - &lt;a href=&quot;http://thrinter.com/10-transparent-filaments&quot;&gt;http://thrinter.com/10-transparent-filaments&lt;/a&gt;.  Those samples are all overextruded a bit, you can get better results if you dial in the extrusion precisely, but that's hard to get right, and the optimal settings may change slightly depending on the part geometry.  Larger nozzles and thicker layers may help to, but I haven't experimented much with that as there are significant downsides to that approach.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="91" LastActivityDate="2016-01-12T22:07:56.873" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="89" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="84" CreationDate="2016-01-12T22:08:23.170" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I haven't had any other issues storing it in the open, but keeping it in an airtight environment (especially if you live in a humid environment) keeps it moisture free, which can effect print quality. Manufacturers recommend this to help keep filament dry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="107" LastActivityDate="2016-01-12T22:08:23.170" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="90" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6" CreationDate="2016-01-12T22:09:38.413" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've seen where certain slicers and/or firmware installations will allow you to set pauses mid-print so you can insert a different filament and resume. Such firmware that I'm aware of is &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sailfishfirmware.com/doc/install-installing.html&quot;&gt;Sailfish&lt;/a&gt;. I haven't personally used this, but I've heard many great things for people who enjoy tinkering with their machine(s). Alternatively, there are 3D-printable attachments for your extruder that allow you setup markers to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:77424&quot;&gt;color your filament&lt;/a&gt; (mentioned by Tom in another answer).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="98" LastActivityDate="2016-01-12T22:09:38.413" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="91" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-12T22:10:12.917" Score="21" ViewCount="13192" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to fabricate a sample holder and shadow masks to use in vacuum chambers. The type of printing material is not important to me PLA/ABS/PC-ABS/nylon).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm worried that 3d printed objects (FDM) would degas under high vacuum. Is that an actual concern?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="106" LastEditorUserId="98" LastEditDate="2016-06-09T02:20:55.793" LastActivityDate="2018-08-08T05:11:39.497" Title="Would 3d-printed objects outgas in vacuum?" Tags="|abs|material|safety|health|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="92" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2598" CreationDate="2016-01-12T22:13:01.437" Score="7" ViewCount="190" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm considering purchasing Filabot or some similar filament maker.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What kind of plastic can I use to produce my own filament? Can I use any type of plastic or just specific printable filaments? &lt;strike&gt;Can I also mix different types of filament together or only one type at a time?&lt;/strike&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20" LastEditorUserId="98" LastEditDate="2016-07-21T17:29:32.520" LastActivityDate="2016-08-05T01:47:38.747" Title="What type of plastic can be used to produce your own filament?" Tags="|filament-production|filament-quality|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="96" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="81" CreationDate="2016-01-12T22:30:27.307" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can smooth a print with acetone using different approaches which require different precautions. In general, you should have ventilated area and use gloves (or wash your hands after the procedure). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Applying Acetone Directly&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using the print in acetone for several seconds or you can apply acetone with a brush. There is a low possibility of fire. See this video, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r3nJbU9OInk&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;(4) MakerBot Replicator - Model Finishing Tricks - Acetone Wash&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Cold Acetone Vapor&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This process takes several hours and gives you best control of the process. Because no external heat is used there is low chance of fire. See this video, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h2lm6FuaAWI&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Cold Acetone Vapor Finishing for 3D Printing&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Hot Acetone Vapor&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This approach takes minutes to smooth the print and there is high chance of ignition. I would never use it inside a building. See this video, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5sblh0bBHoQ&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Make your 3D Printed parts look professional with Acetone and a Rice cooker! - 2014&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="75" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2019-04-11T10:45:33.477" LastActivityDate="2019-04-11T10:45:33.477" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="97" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="81" CreationDate="2016-01-12T22:30:41.533" Score="5" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;No fire.&lt;/strong&gt; Acetone is highly flammable. Avoid open flame, smoking, soldering etc. near acetone or acetone fumes. Be ready to fight a fire.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Ventilate.&lt;/strong&gt; Acetone is very volatile so the fumes will be everywhere in the room. While breathing them should not kill you, it is certainly not good for your health. It may cause drowsiness or dizziness. It is also a good idea to close the container/jar as soon as possible and do not keep it open when not necesery.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Avoid eye contact.&lt;/strong&gt; Acetone causes serious eye irritation. IF IN EYES: Rinse cautiously with water for several minutes. Remove contact lenses if present and easy to do – continue rinsing. Seek medical help if needed.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should also avoid skin contact; repeated exposure may cause skin dryness or cracking, but this never happens me if I wash my hand after using acetone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="53" LastEditorUserId="53" LastEditDate="2017-09-29T16:06:19.873" LastActivityDate="2017-09-29T16:06:19.873" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="98" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="84" CreationDate="2016-01-12T22:32:29.427" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;It makes a difference where I live, and I'm not in a particularly humid climate (California).  When printing with wet filament, you'll sometimes hear it popping and see steam coming out of the extruder (it's usually only this extreme with nylon).  With most other filaments, when they're wet, the extruded filament will have small bubbles in it and the surface finish of the parts will be rougher, with breaks in the layer lines.  It can also lead to more oozing and stringing.  Air print a few centimeters of filament and look at it closely to see if there's any bubbles, if not, it's probably dry enough.  Whether the filament absorbs enough water to be noticeable in a few hours, in a day, or in a week depends a lot on the filament (and I assume the humidity too).  I'm mostly noticed problems with nylon, ABS, and NinjaFlex, less with PLA and PETG (though I avoid leaving any filament out for more than a day).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're not seeing any difference between, then I wouldn't worry about it.  Storing filament dry is a hassle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="91" LastActivityDate="2016-01-12T22:32:29.427" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="99" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14" CreationDate="2016-01-12T22:49:11.960" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;In addition to the aforementioned enriched filaments which give an excellent result, ABS can be plastered, painted and even chrome plated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lLmkCm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lLmkCm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;ABS plastered, painted and chrome plated&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="78" LastEditorUserId="20" LastEditDate="2016-06-07T09:45:47.467" LastActivityDate="2016-06-07T09:45:47.467" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="100" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="61" CreationDate="2016-01-12T23:01:58.753" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would recommend using a raft on your print.  A raft is a few layers that are printed on the bed before your print starts. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The larger you make the raft the stronger the center of it will be.  The edges may warp, but the inside where your print is will be fine.  Using a raft that is mainly comprised of lines instead of solid surfaces would allow a smaller chance of warping as it could only warp with the lines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rOghMm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rOghMm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="43" LastActivityDate="2016-01-12T23:01:58.753" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="101" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="84" CreationDate="2016-01-12T23:31:37.953" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Normally you should check and follow guidelines provided by filament manufacturer or please contact them for more details. It can vary as not all environments are the same. For example frequent temperature fluctuations can increase chances of making a filament turn brittle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Polylactic_acid&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;PLA&lt;/a&gt; can be easily transfigured at temperature ranging from 55-70°, so it should not be exposed directly under sunlight for an extended duration&lt;sup&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.botfeeder.net/faq.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;faq&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Polyvinyl_alcohol&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;PVA&lt;/a&gt; specifically is a water-soluble filament, so keeping it dry is absolutely necessary, because when it gets wet it can become unusable. Therefore when possible, keep them in original packaging (a sealed bag with a dessicant packet) as long as possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.matterhackers.com/articles/the-matterhackers-3d-printing-faq#faq5&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;How should I store my filament?&lt;/a&gt; at MatterHackers FAQ&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20" LastEditorUserId="20" LastEditDate="2016-01-13T14:18:12.737" LastActivityDate="2016-01-13T14:18:12.737" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="102" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="81" CreationDate="2016-01-12T23:33:06.573" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Contrary to what the other answers suggest, the risk of fire is &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZJWhfpWlGFg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;not that great&lt;/a&gt;. An acetone &quot;explosion&quot; is even more unlikely, since you need a ratio of 2.5%-12.8% acetone vapor to air for that: too much acetone (as would be the case inside of your smoothing vessel) and nothing happens, too little (as would be the case inside of a badly ventilated room) and nothing happens either.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that even if you were working in a completely non-ventilated, ridiculously small 1m^3 room you'd still need to evaporate over half a liter of (liquid) acetone to reach that bare minimum 2.5%. In any case, well before you got into the &quot;danger zone&quot; the air would become unbreathable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, then what should you be mindful of when using acetone?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;It can give you a headache. Avoid breathing the fumes and ensure adequate ventilation.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You may opt to use gloves, as skin contact should be avoided (acetone can irritate the skin and possibly be absorbed through the skin). However, limited skin contact isn't a big deal: acetone is an ingredient in some nail polish removers.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Acetone is heavier than air, so if you use a sufficiently high container fewer fumes will escape.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If somehow a fire does start, it will likely be limited to your container. Having a lid handy allows you to starve the fire of oxygen, harmlessly putting it out.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All in all, smoothing using acetone is not very dangerous. Acetone isn't suspected to be carcinogenic, though it isn't something you should be careless around either. The risk of starting a fire is small. On the other hand, solvents like MEK (used for smoothing PLA) aren't as nice by far, and should only be handled with a respirator.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastEditorUserId="26" LastEditDate="2016-01-15T06:31:31.933" LastActivityDate="2016-01-15T06:31:31.933" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="103" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="104" CreationDate="2016-01-12T23:39:20.770" Score="9" ViewCount="210" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there any regulation against a 3D printed weapon in the United States or Europe?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some time ago, I saw &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.lanacion.com.ar/1579449-crean-la-primera-arma-de-fuego-con-una-impresora-3d&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;an article&lt;/a&gt; in Israel where they had one that was not detected by the x-ray and was fully functional!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="126" LastEditorUserId="126" LastEditDate="2016-01-13T16:56:55.807" LastActivityDate="2016-01-13T21:45:14.753" Title="Is it legal to make a fire weapon with a 3D printer?" Tags="|legal|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ClosedDate="2016-01-14T00:17:47.377" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="104" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="103" CreationDate="2016-01-12T23:45:22.727" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Sort of.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fully plastic guns are banned in the United States by &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.gpo.gov/fdsys/pkg/STATUTE-102/pdf/STATUTE-102-Pg3816.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;the Undetectable Firearms Act&lt;/a&gt;, because &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.nytimes.com/2014/08/14/fashion/the-rise-of-3-d-printed-guns.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;they can pass unseen through metal detectors&lt;/a&gt; - a huge problem. One way around this is to insert a slip of metal into the gun, thereby making it detectable by metal detectors. 3D-printed guns made of metal - were that possible - would not violate the law.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The UFA was originally enacted in 1988, extended from 2003 to 2013, and then again until 2023. It may seem a bit unnecessary, as all-plastic guns, like the famous Liberator have structural issues that make them extremely difficult to fire when compared to a normal all-metal gun. However, then &lt;em&gt;can&lt;/em&gt; be used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In Europe, gun laws vary widely by country. &lt;a href=&quot;http://eur-lex.europa.eu/legal-content/en/ALL/?uri=CELEX:31991L0477&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;The European Firearms Directive&lt;/a&gt; is the main international agreement on gun laws, but its application varies, and it does not directly address 3D-printed guns.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not aware of a country that has an explicit law banning 3D-printed guns. The only countries that ban them either unintentionally cover them or ban guns altogether.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="61" LastEditorUserId="61" LastEditDate="2016-01-13T21:45:14.753" LastActivityDate="2016-01-13T21:45:14.753" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="106" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="48" CreationDate="2016-01-13T00:19:13.327" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here's just a few of the things you might want to look into.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;plastic - some plastic types are more stringy than others and there's also variation between brands and colors.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;moisture in filament - water turning to steam tends to cause the extruder to ooze when it isn't printing, which can cause stringing.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;temperature - too hot or too cold can cause stringiness.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;retraction distance - not enough retraction can leave some nozzle pressure, causing it to ooze during travel moves (not sure how much retraction speed matters but I suspect it can make a difference too).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;acceleration - if it's too slow it's more likely to draw out strings.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;travel speed - faster travel speeds are more likely to prevent strings or make them thinner and less of a problem.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;z-hop - raising the extruder on travel moves makes stringing more likely.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;wipe - a longer wipe distance can be helpful to reduce stringing, especially with some of the more stringy filaments.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;combing - avoiding passing over open spaces can reduce stringing in some cases&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;part cooling fan - more cooling might help to reduce stringiness.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are other things too, the extruder design makes a big difference with longer bowden tubes being more challenging to tune.  The order in which the layers are printed can make a difference too in some more specialized cases.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="91" LastEditorUserId="2130" LastEditDate="2016-06-15T08:15:55.917" LastActivityDate="2016-06-15T08:15:55.917" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="107" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="131" CreationDate="2016-01-13T00:41:32.907" Score="18" ViewCount="6645" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 3d printer that uses ABS filament. The software I use will generate vertical supports for my objects before printing that can be easily broken off after they have been used during print to hold sharp angles up that would normally fall.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After breaking off the stints, the print is far from smooth. Is there a material that is best suited for &quot;sanding&quot; down prints without damaging the print?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="135" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2018-11-28T16:06:27.410" LastActivityDate="2018-11-30T00:11:05.700" Title="What can I use to &quot;sand&quot; my ABS prints?" Tags="|abs|post-processing|support-structures|support-material|surface|" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="108" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="107" CreationDate="2016-01-13T01:10:48.567" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use normal wet/dry sandpaper and it works just fine. If I remember correctly, I usually start with 220 and then work my way up to 400, 600, and 800.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are also foam or rubber sanding pads available that work really well when you're sanding something organically shaped.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The grits you start and finish with will depend on how rough your surface is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="66" LastActivityDate="2016-01-13T01:10:48.567" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="109" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-13T01:18:42.313" Score="10" ViewCount="208" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm going to 3D print a part that needs to meet certain strength requirements, due to its usages. I know how strong a particular plastic (eg. comrpessive/tensile/shear strength) is when dealt with in a solid chunk, but not when it is 3D printed. What is a good way to estimate the change?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="143" LastEditorUserId="4927" LastEditDate="2018-09-05T11:07:48.750" LastActivityDate="2018-09-05T11:07:48.750" Title="What is a good way to estimate the impact on material strength different printing methods will have?" Tags="|print-strength|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="110" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14" CreationDate="2016-01-13T01:25:28.780" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Especially for smaller parts, I would suggest looking into electroplating.  You can get a really nice, copper, nickel, or even gold finish using it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The biggest issue is that to electroplate something, it must be conductive, but there are many conductive paints on the market which you can use to apply a very light coating to make the plastic conductive. I heavily suggest priming well (2-3 coats) before applying the conductive paint, as it will help to minimize the amount of conductive paint needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.instructables.com/id/High-Quality-and-safe-Nickel-Plating/&quot;&gt;Here is an instructables link&lt;/a&gt; on a cheap, diy, electroplating solution.  It's assuming you are doing it on a metal, but once you apply the conductive paint, it's effectively the same thing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also here is an &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B008OA931A&quot;&gt;amazon link&lt;/a&gt; to a fairly well priced conductive spray paint which would do the job just fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="139" LastActivityDate="2016-01-13T01:25:28.780" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="111" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-01-13T01:30:36.907" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2016-01-13T01:30:36.907" LastActivityDate="2016-01-13T01:30:36.907" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="112" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-01-13T01:30:36.907" Score="0" Body="For questions that concern the performance of a 3D printing operation, or for improving the speed of the operation performed." OwnerUserId="138" LastEditorUserId="138" LastEditDate="2016-01-15T17:02:18.227" LastActivityDate="2016-01-15T17:02:18.227" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="113" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-01-13T01:32:28.917" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2016-01-13T01:32:28.917" LastActivityDate="2016-01-13T01:32:28.917" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="114" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-01-13T01:32:28.917" Score="0" Body="For questions about the quality or durability of a finished 3D print, printing material or of a 3D printing machine. " OwnerUserId="138" LastEditorUserId="138" LastEditDate="2016-01-15T17:02:45.153" LastActivityDate="2016-01-15T17:02:45.153" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="115" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-01-13T01:33:10.700" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2016-01-13T01:33:10.700" LastActivityDate="2016-01-13T01:33:10.700" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="116" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-01-13T01:33:10.700" Score="0" Body="For questions about precautions with regard to immediate safety and security, when operating a machine, or handling printing materials." OwnerUserId="138" LastEditorUserId="138" LastEditDate="2016-01-15T17:04:37.310" LastActivityDate="2016-01-15T17:04:37.310" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="117" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-01-13T01:34:27.117" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2016-01-13T01:34:27.117" LastActivityDate="2016-01-13T01:34:27.117" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="118" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-01-13T01:34:27.117" Score="0" Body="For questions concerning the reuse or disposal of previously used materials." OwnerUserId="138" LastEditorUserId="138" LastEditDate="2016-01-15T17:02:32.810" LastActivityDate="2016-01-15T17:02:32.810" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="119" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-01-13T01:36:49.203" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2016-01-13T01:36:49.203" LastActivityDate="2016-01-13T01:36:49.203" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="120" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-01-13T01:36:49.203" Score="0" Body="For questions about the long-term effects of 3D printing. For questions that concern immediate safety during handling and operation of machines and materials, use the [safety] tag instead." OwnerUserId="138" LastEditorUserId="138" LastEditDate="2016-01-15T17:03:53.953" LastActivityDate="2016-01-15T17:03:53.953" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="121" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-01-13T01:43:08.860" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2016-01-13T01:43:08.860" LastActivityDate="2016-01-13T01:43:08.860" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="122" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-01-13T01:43:08.860" Score="0" Body="For questions about the acetone chemical - a chemical used to assist with finishing and smoothing 3D prints." OwnerUserId="138" LastEditorUserId="138" LastEditDate="2016-01-15T17:04:22.397" LastActivityDate="2016-01-15T17:04:22.397" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="123" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-01-13T01:43:49.003" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2016-01-13T01:43:49.003" LastActivityDate="2016-01-13T01:43:49.003" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="124" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-01-13T01:43:49.003" Score="0" Body="For questions about printers which are able to reproduce themselves, and are able to build parts to reconstruct copies." OwnerUserId="138" LastEditorUserId="138" LastEditDate="2016-01-15T17:03:14.657" LastActivityDate="2016-01-15T17:03:14.657" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="125" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-01-13T01:49:06.043" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2016-01-13T01:49:06.043" LastActivityDate="2016-01-13T01:49:06.043" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="126" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-01-13T01:49:06.043" Score="0" Body="For questions about rafts, the layers of plastic generally applied before the start of a printing operation to allow for easy removal of the finished print." OwnerUserId="138" LastEditorUserId="138" LastEditDate="2016-01-15T17:04:15.243" LastActivityDate="2016-01-15T17:04:15.243" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="127" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-01-13T01:53:11.760" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2016-01-13T01:53:11.760" LastActivityDate="2016-01-13T01:53:11.760" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="128" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-01-13T01:53:11.760" Score="0" Body="Brims, not to be confused with Rafts, are layers of plastic applied before the start of the printing operation, in order to allow for better adhesion to the printing service. " OwnerUserId="138" LastEditorUserId="138" LastEditDate="2016-01-15T17:03:30.587" LastActivityDate="2016-01-15T17:03:30.587" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="129" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-01-13T01:56:16.213" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2016-01-13T01:56:16.213" LastActivityDate="2016-01-13T01:56:16.213" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="130" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-01-13T01:56:16.213" Score="0" Body="For questions about laws, in particular regulations, that one must follow when handling or operating materials, or machines. You should consider including the relevant legal jurisdictions and a description of the questionable action itself." OwnerUserId="138" LastEditorUserId="138" LastEditDate="2016-01-15T17:03:38.280" LastActivityDate="2016-01-15T17:03:38.280" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="131" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="107" CreationDate="2016-01-13T01:58:19.810" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a bunch of solutions to this problem but I'm always looking for additional ideas. I usually start by slicing as much as possible off with a hobby knife. The more than can be removed before sanding the better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For big prints I like big &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B001449TPS&quot;&gt;generic sandpaper sheets&lt;/a&gt; from the hardware store. Starting with the highest grit and moving down. Make sure you're discarding your sheets when they get totally gunked up (which can happen pretty fast) or you won't get much done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For smaller nooks and crannies I have &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B000NPUKYS&quot;&gt;a set of needle files&lt;/a&gt;. They do a pretty good job clearing out screw holes and smaller features on printed sculptures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've also had some success sanding with my &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B00005LEXX&quot;&gt;Dremel&lt;/a&gt; when it comes to annoying stuck on supports or other imperfections. Having some horsepower behind your sanding can be a nice break. I've also seen the &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B000HWRU9U&quot;&gt;wire brush attachments&lt;/a&gt; used for finishing Bronze and Copper-fill prints. Just keep an eye on your speed or you'll sand a hole in your print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lastly (and one I haven't tried) are &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B0039ZCQAK&quot;&gt;these sanding sticks&lt;/a&gt; They were recommended by a friend and look like they would be pretty easy to use/swap out used sandpaper. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="56" LastActivityDate="2016-01-13T01:58:19.810" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="132" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="304" CreationDate="2016-01-13T02:13:54.357" Score="8" ViewCount="1371" Body="&lt;p&gt;When you add a raft in Slic3r, the first layer of the raft prints at the first layer speed.  After the raft is finished, the first layer of the print prints at the standard speed.  How can I make the first layer of the actual print slow down to the first layer speed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="43" LastActivityDate="2016-01-16T20:29:42.770" Title="How can I set the 1st layer after a raft in Slic3r to print at 1st layer speed" Tags="|speed|slic3r|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="133" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="54" CreationDate="2016-01-13T02:19:47.097" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;For ABS I use a gel super glue (&lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B003TP2TBQ&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Loctite is my current favorite&lt;/a&gt;), it seems to slightly melt the ABS parts together and makes for a great bond. A slurry of old scrap ABS and acetone also works well, though I find that it will evaporate even if left in a closed mason jar over time. The small nozzle applicator and the fact it doesn't seem to evaporate makes super glue the better choice for me. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The gel super glue works &quot;OK&quot; for PLA but I've had parts fail after taking a small tumble. I just started using this &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B003HNFLMY&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;acrylic cement&lt;/a&gt; for PLA. It cures &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; fast but seems to slightly melt the PLA in the same way the ABS options do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For internal seams I like to put a bead of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mcmaster.com/#7518a61/=10nnkbd&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&quot;high performance&quot; hot glue&lt;/a&gt; over the seam. It's just a bit flexible and seems to do a good job taking drops. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lastly I really like (but haven't mastered) friction welding parts together using a Dremel. Matt Griffin at MAKE Magazine did a great write up on the &lt;a href=&quot;http://makezine.com/projects/make-34/skill-builder-finishing-and-post-processing-your-3d-printed-objects/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;technique here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="56" LastActivityDate="2016-01-13T02:19:47.097" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="134" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="159" CreationDate="2016-01-13T02:39:47.150" Score="7" ViewCount="11014" Body="&lt;p&gt;Assuming you have a high quality printer with a fast processor, will you see a noticeable improvement by upgrading from 16X/32X microstepping drivers to 64X/128X microstepping drivers? (e.g. smoother surface finish).  In what ways do they perform differently from the more common 16X or 32X stepper drivers.  I'm thinking the RAPS128, Silencioso, and Trinamic drivers vs the DRV8825, A4988 and A4988.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="91" LastActivityDate="2016-01-13T08:55:44.043" Title="What are the benefits to using 128X microstepping drivers on the X and Y axis of a FFF printer?" Tags="|microstepping|stepper|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="136" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="84" CreationDate="2016-01-13T03:53:05.250" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;In most cases, you should be fine with ABS or PLA out of an airtight container. If you're worried about it, throw a few desiccant packets where you store your filament.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, some specialty filaments should be stored in an airtight container. PVA is notorious for absorbing the ambient humidity around it. When it's heated, the water it has absorbed starts to form bubbles, completely messing up the extrusion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In short, some specialty filaments, definitely. With others, it isn't necessary, but it can't hurt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="156" LastEditorUserId="156" LastEditDate="2016-12-08T15:37:09.227" LastActivityDate="2016-12-08T15:37:09.227" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="137" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-01-13T03:55:22.830" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Many household and consumer goods are typically made from ABS because of its light weight, high resistance to impact, high toughness, the ability to use it for injection molding and ease of machining. With a high glass temperature of about 105 &amp;deg;C, ABS is stable to maintain its mechanical properties than other polymers like PLA or PETG.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because of considerable shrinkage during cooling prints need to be designed a little larger and it needs to be printed on a heated bed at a temperature of about 100 - 110 &amp;deg;C in a controlled, heated environment to prevent warping from the bed and layer delamination. Print part cooling should not be used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4808" LastEditorUserId="4808" LastEditDate="2018-11-07T01:39:05.257" LastActivityDate="2018-11-07T01:39:05.257" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="138" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-01-13T03:55:22.830" Score="0" Body="Use this tag for questions on Acrylonitrile Butadiene Styrene, also known as ABS, a commonly used thermoplastic polymer." OwnerUserId="50" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-10-15T21:23:14.170" LastActivityDate="2018-10-15T21:23:14.170" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="139" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="132" CreationDate="2016-01-13T03:59:58.773" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You shouldn't need to. The purpose of a slower first layer is to help with need adhesion. With a raft the first layer of the model is printing on the raft so it can go at regular speeds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="157" LastActivityDate="2016-01-13T03:59:58.773" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="140" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="160" CreationDate="2016-01-13T04:14:31.923" Score="26" ViewCount="5719" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've had my printer for almost a year now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there something I should be doing to maintain the motors?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="157" LastEditorUserId="168" LastEditDate="2016-06-09T14:07:59.843" LastActivityDate="2016-06-09T14:07:59.843" Title="Do stepper motors require any maintenance?" Tags="|electronics|maintenance|mechanics|stepper|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="141" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-01-13T04:18:53.300" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;This tag is for questions about general maintenance and upkeep of printers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This can include generic items like motor and rods or maintenance questions for specific printer models.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="157" LastEditorUserId="157" LastEditDate="2016-01-15T17:04:31.210" LastActivityDate="2016-01-15T17:04:31.210" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="142" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-01-13T04:18:53.300" Score="0" Body="Questions about general maintenance and upkeep of printers." OwnerUserId="157" LastEditorUserId="157" LastEditDate="2016-01-15T17:03:57.300" LastActivityDate="2016-01-15T17:03:57.300" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="144" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="109" CreationDate="2016-01-13T05:01:54.163" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's hard to tell without actually testing the part. There are many ways you can 3D print a part, even on the same machine, that can yield different results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are some tips to help uphold strength requirements:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Identify where your stresses are and avoid allowing the natural &quot;grain&quot; of the print (i.e. each layer) to coincide with the stresses of the part. For example, I just printed a part with hinges today. I set my part up to ensure that the circular profile of the hinge on each layer, instead of having the machine &quot;bridge&quot; the circular profile.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Make your part more solid by increasing the infill. Note that somewhere around 35% won't really provide much more strength than say 50% with a standard infill pattern (i.e. hexagonal, diamond, catfill). However, I would imagine that if a spherical infill pattern was ever designed, that would be the strongest.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;An easy way to beef up small areas of a part is to increase your shell variable (how many profile layers for each layer). Again, referencing my hinge design, I made sure that my hinges were completely printed using shell instead of shell/infill.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Don't be afraid to do some post-processing such as adding epoxy/epoxies in high-stress areas.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it's not an expensive part to print, I would suggest playing with some of these ideas yourself and conduct controlled tests to see what setups work best for your application(s).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="98" LastEditorUserId="9134" LastEditDate="2018-01-29T22:05:34.920" LastActivityDate="2018-01-29T22:05:34.920" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="145" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3" CreationDate="2016-01-13T05:12:26.650" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;As with any manufacturing process, you'll need to learn to &quot;use the right tool for the job&quot;. It depends on the requirements of the part. To answer your question, I would suggest using a larger layer height for the sheer fact of reducing print time on larger objects.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, it depends on the part and how small the details are on the part. If your part has sharp edges that are required for the proper functionality of the part, then you'll want to use a smaller layer height. Or if your part fits into another part, you'll probably want to use a smaller layer height.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another variable might be whether or not post-processing is necessary. Is this part going to be purposefully printed larger/rougher with the idea to use a Dremel later to smooth everything out? If yes, then use a larger layer height.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="98" LastActivityDate="2016-01-13T05:12:26.650" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="146" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="83" CreationDate="2016-01-13T05:19:39.603" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;The only thing I can think of off hand is an old mod for the early MakerBot machines. It first was released for the Thing-O'-Matic I believe, but is compatible with Replicator 1 machines (and its knock-offs). Here's the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4056&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Thingiverse page&lt;/a&gt;, but look up Automatic Build Plate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Essentially, you can use the Replicator G slicing program and there is a setting for &quot;ABP&quot; or Automatic Build Plate. This will basically tell the ABP to run its routine after the controller receives the response that the printing program is done and roll the finished part off the edge of the build plate, then start the same program over again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Drawbacks:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I don't think it's easily compatible with newer machines/slicers. But, it's open source&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pretty sure you have to use Replicator G, which is outdated now and may make your machine sound like it's going to fall apart (I know from experience)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Going off of @Pete's answer about solenoids. It reminded me that someone integrated a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:872617&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;solenoid &quot;ejector&quot;&lt;/a&gt; (aka Boxing Glove) for their machine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Update (06/08/2016):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Forgot to mention that if you choose to create your own &quot;Boxing Glove&quot; or conveyor belt, some software such as Octo-Pi and Repetier-Host allow plugins. So, you could interface with your hardware via customized code and integrate the functionality directly into the slicing application for the full closed loop operation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="98" LastEditorUserId="98" LastEditDate="2016-06-09T02:20:24.617" LastActivityDate="2016-06-09T02:20:24.617" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="147" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="151" CreationDate="2016-01-13T05:44:21.367" Score="23" ViewCount="2859" Body="&lt;p&gt;What materials which are &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.shapeways.com/materials/&quot;&gt;commonly used in 3D printing&lt;/a&gt;, are food-safe?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any certifications/grading process for such materials, which can help me with my cross-checking and selection?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have been using an &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fused_deposition_modeling&quot;&gt;FDM printer&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="163" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2020-08-20T12:55:00.687" LastActivityDate="2022-01-12T23:00:39.473" Title="Which are the food-safe materials and how do I recognize them?" Tags="|material|safety|food|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="148" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="83" CreationDate="2016-01-13T06:21:21.800" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;An option that might be feasible for some situations (depending on your setup) is &lt;strong&gt;Sequential Printing&lt;/strong&gt; - a feature provided by some slicing software, for instance &lt;a href=&quot;http://manual.slic3r.org/advanced/sequential-printing&quot;&gt;Slic3r&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In short, this allows you to print multiple objects &lt;strong&gt;one at a time&lt;/strong&gt; rather than simultaneously. This has some obvious benefits, but also some downsides:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Benefits:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Each object is finished individually, and you will therefore not have multiple half-finished prints &lt;em&gt;when&lt;/em&gt; something goes wrong. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;No particular printer or bed swapping mechanic is needed.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Downsides:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;With most consumer printer, print area is somewhat limited, and sequential printing requires you to place objects so that the hot end can move freely between the finished objects, potentially restricting the effective usage of your print volume.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;By printing objects one at a time, you limit the natural print cooling that happens when printing multiple objects at the same time. In particular for smaller prints, you might not want to print sequentially unless your print cooling solution is up for it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Requires some setup&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You specifically mention that you would like the finished prints to be moved outside the print area. In it self, sequential printing does not do this for you; however, if you fit your printer with a large, motorized print bed, you might achieve the same effect without moving into unfamiliar technology!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="115" LastEditorUserId="115" LastEditDate="2016-01-13T06:26:27.453" LastActivityDate="2016-01-13T06:26:27.453" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="149" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="224" CreationDate="2016-01-13T06:35:47.820" Score="10" ViewCount="484" Body="&lt;p&gt;Suddenly, my printer has started producing prints that have a very pronounced layering. Normally, the alignment between layers is very good, and the prints look very smooth. Suddenly, the prints have become much worse and the layers are misaligned with respect to each other.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MgWVx.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MgWVx.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The part on the left is my &quot;normal&quot; quality, while the part on the right show the deterioration. Here is another picture (in which the good part is on the right):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/c1I5Q.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/c1I5Q.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The parts are both printed with 0.1mm layer height, and identical slicer settings/filament. I am printing on a custom-built FDM printer; the mechanism is roughly similar to that of an Ultimaker.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastEditorUserId="1" LastEditDate="2016-02-08T14:13:40.557" LastActivityDate="2016-02-08T14:13:40.557" Title="What can cause a sudden and dramatic loss in the inter-layer registration of my prints?" Tags="|fdm|abs|print-quality|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="150" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="154" CreationDate="2016-01-13T06:38:38.630" Score="1" ViewCount="1572" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am working on a robotics project and need to print some gears. These will probably by under a LOT of pressure. Which material/filament should I choose so that the gears don't wear off easily?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PS: Newbie here...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT:&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;According to my instuctor, it has to be some sort of plastic (not metal).&#xA;It also has to be lightweight...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="165" LastEditorUserId="165" LastEditDate="2016-01-13T07:02:38.820" LastActivityDate="2016-01-13T08:48:43.857" Title="Which are the strongest and most durable materials?" Tags="|filament|material|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2016-01-13T13:13:39.767" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="151" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="147" CreationDate="2016-01-13T06:39:20.323" Score="23" Body="&lt;p&gt;Food safety is a property of both the process and the material. You can't stick food-safe material in a printer that has previously been used to print something food-dangerous and expect the result to be food safe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only way to know if a given material is food-safe is to ask your supplier, but a lot depends on how you then process it. For instance, FDM printers often have brass nozzles, which contain lead. To print food-safe materials, you need to use a stainless steel nozzle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Food safe materials can be identified by mean of &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Food_safe_symbol&quot;&gt;an universal symbol&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Moreover, to ensure food-safety of a 3D printed model you may need to further process it (for instance, by vapor smoothing or coating with a food-safe lacquer). Some claims circulate on the internet that 3D printed models may have surface porosity in which bacteria can grow, but I've not been able to find a reliable source for this claim. Still, you need to be cautious.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastEditorUserId="26" LastEditDate="2016-01-13T06:52:31.437" LastActivityDate="2016-01-13T06:52:31.437" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="152" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3" CreationDate="2016-01-13T06:39:29.060" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;I believe the &lt;a href=&quot;http://manual.slic3r.org/first-print/first-layer&quot;&gt;Slic3r Manual&lt;/a&gt; summarizes this quite nicely:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A thicker layer height will provide more flow, and consequently more heat, making the extrusion adhere to the bed more. It also gives the benefit of giving more tolerance for the levelness of the bed. It is recommended to raise the first layer height to match the diameter of the nozzle, e.g. a first layer height of 0.35mm for a 0.35mm nozzle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In other words, larger layer heights for the first layer typically gives better adhesion, and makes inaccurate bed leveling (and auto leveling) still work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="115" LastActivityDate="2016-01-13T06:39:29.060" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="153" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="140" CreationDate="2016-01-13T06:41:18.010" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, stepper motors do not require maintenance. They are a brushless kind of motor, so they do not have brushes that need to be replaced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastActivityDate="2016-01-13T06:41:18.010" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="154" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="150" CreationDate="2016-01-13T06:57:39.023" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;So, as you say you want to materials for printing robotics parts. And as you have not given any budget constraint, I would give you a list of materials which would help you achieve the task, and you can choose amongst them accordingly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Plastics: Basically used for building prototypes. Nylon Polyamide should be a choice for you.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Polyamide 3D printing is achieved through SLS 3D printing. It offers&#xA;  strong and flexible prints. The upside of this material is that the&#xA;  printing technology requires minimum preparation of the 3D file before&#xA;  printing. There is no need for support. And it also offers the&#xA;  possibility to create intricate shapes and moving part in just one go.&#xA;  After the print the polyamide can be polished and dyed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol start=&quot;2&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Metals: Metals like Brass, Alumunium and Steel should be a good choice.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But, if I were to achieve your task, I would select carbon fiber. some details about it:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Carbon fiber consists of 90% carbon atoms, each fiber is 10 times&#xA;  thinner than a human hair. Carbon is especially prized for its lack of&#xA;  combustibility and infusability but also by its incredible strength&#xA;  (stronger than steel) and ability to create flexible structure, light&#xA;  weight and corrosion resistance. Its melting temperature is 1500, this&#xA;  heat there are only carbon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="163" LastActivityDate="2016-01-13T06:57:39.023" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="155" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="134" CreationDate="2016-01-13T07:05:41.620" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Prints benefit from higher microstepping in two ways:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Noise level&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using microstepping reduces noise from your printer's operation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Print quality&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using higher resolution microstepping does not increase the physical accuracy of your prints meaningfully, but it can reduce surface artifacts such as &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.soliforum.com/topic/10108/extruder-pulse-moire-at-132-microstepping-causing-diagonal-lines/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;moire&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastActivityDate="2016-01-13T07:05:41.620" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="156" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-13T08:28:30.357" Score="15" ViewCount="430" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am currently working on parts for a custom prosthesis.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My main concern at the moment is to find biocompatible materials that can be 3D printed from a UP or a Reprap.&#xA;The piece would need to be in contact with the skin for extended periods of time, probably around 17 hours a day on average.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main concerns I have are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Skin reactions caused by prolonged contact&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Skin reactions and bruising caused by friction&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Degradation of the materials due to prolonged exposure to skin secretions and sweat&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Risks of toxicity in the compounds generated by the aforementioned material degradation&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Which materials can you recommend?&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Any extensive data (from testing) would be greatly appreciated.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="169" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2019-02-02T22:39:42.830" LastActivityDate="2019-02-04T15:21:46.950" Title="Are there biocompatible materials available to the general public?" Tags="|health|filament-choice|medical|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="157" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="147" CreationDate="2016-01-13T08:32:27.733" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are 3 things that might affect food safety of 3D printed objects:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The filament - it's food safe only if it says so on the package (even if the plastic is not toxic you don't know about the color and other additives)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The hotend - the hotend and nozzle may leak metals into the filament, you need something like a full stainless steel hothead.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;And finally, 3D printed objects contain little holes that bacteria can get into - so nothing printed on an FDM printer is food safe unless coated with some food safe sealing material (except for single use)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="170" LastEditorUserId="98" LastEditDate="2016-01-14T23:42:40.040" LastActivityDate="2016-01-14T23:42:40.040" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="158" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="150" CreationDate="2016-01-13T08:48:43.857" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Filaments that are intended for making parts that require strange should be rated by the manufacturer for strength and flexibility.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You need to calculate the required strength and then choose a material with higher rating&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example the rating for filaments made by Taulman are at &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.taulman3d.com/how-to-choose.html?m&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.taulman3d.com/how-to-choose.html?m&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="170" LastActivityDate="2016-01-13T08:48:43.857" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="159" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="134" CreationDate="2016-01-13T08:55:44.043" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;You will likely not see a noticeable improvement by upgrading from a 16x or 32x to a 64x or 128x microstepping driver. Depending on the motors you're driving and the size of the load you could actually see a decrease in quality.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although microstepping increases theoretical resolution it does not necessarily increase accuracy. The reason is that microstepping significantly limits the incremental torque of the motor. This means that you may ask for a step but not get one because the torque of the step won't be enough to actually turn the shaft.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As an example: a motor running in full steps will have 100% of its rated holding torque. Moving to 16 microsteps/full steps drops this to ~10%, 128 drops it to ~1%.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The practical effect of this is that in high torque situations (such as printing at fast speeds) the motor may end up skipping some of the steps. In this way the increase in resolution can actually lead to a decrease in accuracy (smaller steps but they may not actually be taken).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A relevant calculation to do would be to work out what the different number of microsteps to full steps works out to in terms of horizontal, vertical, or whatever movement the motor drives. You can do this by measuring how far the stepper moves said surface in one revolution provided you know the number of steps it takes per revolution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Example:&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With no microstepping: 1 turn/inch * 200 steps/turn = 200 steps/inch or .005 inch/step (127 micron resolution)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With 16x microstepping: 16 * 200 steps/inch or .0003 inch / step (8 micron resolution)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this example 128x microstepping would be absolutely foolish. Every situation is different and you should use this information to make a decision based on your setup. Many manufacturers have recommendations on how far their motors can be microstepped.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="66" LastActivityDate="2016-01-13T08:55:44.043" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="160" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="140" CreationDate="2016-01-13T09:10:09.697" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;The stepper motor itself does not.  You may want to inspect the motors for debris or dust.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on your configuration you may want to check on parts of your printer that connect to your stepper motor such as shaft couplings, pulleys, lead screws/threaded rods and belts.  The stepper motor wires should occasionally be inspected for wear and strain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="174" LastActivityDate="2016-01-13T09:10:09.697" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="161" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13" CreationDate="2016-01-13T09:20:14.803" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Regarding the sturdiness of the final print, I believe it depends on the inter-layer adhesion of the filament itself - which varies greatly. Also, normally, thicker layers would increase the strength of the print up to a certain point. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An informal study of strength/layer height ratio can be found &lt;a href=&quot;http://my3dmatter.com/influence-infill-layer-height-pattern/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;: this study suggests that the strength of the print increases up to a layer height of 0.25 mm, and then stabilizes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other hand, printing at high resolution often will hide defects that occur from bad quality filament, in particular filament that has degraded by absorbing too much moisture. Due to the less amount of plastic extruded per layer at high resolutions, some general printing defects also tend to be less pronounced and easier handle afterwards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="115" LastEditorUserId="115" LastEditDate="2016-01-14T06:15:17.083" LastActivityDate="2016-01-14T06:15:17.083" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="162" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-13T09:24:33.537" Score="6" ViewCount="1318" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm interested in finding online APIs where you could perform a call to some third party service with some print preparation request with my model (i.e. &quot;heal a model&quot; or &quot;set up support&quot;) and get in return GCODE file I can send to a 3D printer.&#xA;My input will be :&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The 3d model (obj, stl)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;My printer (makerbot, ultimaker, whatever) or a printer profile&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A printing profile&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is opposed to all the classical 3D printing processes we have right now. Currently when printing in a 3D printer you would need to go through these phases:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Create/Download a model&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Prepare the model for printing with some 3rd party desktop software&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Export the model as gcode&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Save the file to some flash drive&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Plug the flash drive into the printer&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Print the model with the printer interface&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would like to know if this process can be simplified to a point where you can just print your model directly from your web browser without going through all these steps.&#xA;I know I'm over simplifying things here, but I would still want to see if solutions like I suggested exist?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="172" LastActivityDate="2016-06-24T18:33:08.007" Title="Online APIs for 3D printing services" Tags="|print-preparation|print-api|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="163" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-13T09:40:46.217" Score="6" ViewCount="93" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to print lunch boxes, which I can put into the microwave.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How could I determine, if the print material is appropriate (dishwasher, food, microwave safe)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="177" LastActivityDate="2016-01-13T09:40:46.217" Title="How do I determine whether a print material is dishwasher, food, and microwave safe?" Tags="|health|food|print-material|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="10" ClosedDate="2016-01-13T13:13:59.067" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="164" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="166" CreationDate="2016-01-13T12:25:55.097" Score="7" ViewCount="905" Body="&lt;p&gt;Assuming I've 3D design (or I've created one) which looks very similar to Lego bricks, I am allowed to 3D print them for my personal use?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do I need to obtain some permission to do so, because of some patents? Or how does it work?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20" LastActivityDate="2016-01-13T12:34:36.383" Title="Can I print my own Lego bricks?" Tags="|legal|bricks|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ClosedDate="2016-01-14T00:12:14.343" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="165" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="83" CreationDate="2016-01-13T12:30:23.473" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It would be possible and not too terribly difficult to rig a servo or solenoid with a push plate like a plow, on top of your build plate. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However this would require another processor via raspberry pi or arduino to control it. Scripting execution when the print has completed wouldn't be terribly difficult either, but it isn't readily available and certainly isn't part of a mass produced printer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My issue with the concept is if you push a bunch of prints off the build plate, what guarantee do you have they wont become damaged in the process?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="186" LastActivityDate="2016-01-13T12:30:23.473" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="166" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="164" CreationDate="2016-01-13T12:34:36.383" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;The patents that cover Lego bricks have expired, so you are free to print bricks using the same interlocking system. You are even allowed to offer such prints commercially.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is not allowed (and a violation of trademark law) is to call them &quot;Lego bricks&quot; or use Lego's logo. &quot;Compatible with Lego&quot; on the other hand, would be fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastActivityDate="2016-01-13T12:34:36.383" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="167" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19" CreationDate="2016-01-13T12:35:21.263" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use diagonal cutters and a pair of mini pliers. &#xA;I print with Simplify3d and the support structures are remarkably easy to remove, I find giving a quick pull pops most off. The diagonal cutters get rid of any small beads leftover.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="186" LastActivityDate="2016-01-13T12:35:21.263" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="168" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="170" CreationDate="2016-01-13T12:36:34.530" Score="1" ViewCount="141" Body="&lt;p&gt;Assuming I've extracted 3D models from a game which I legally bought (such as StarCraft). I am allowed to 3D print them for personal use or give it to close friends?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any general rule, or this suppose to be specified in the license? If so, which section/clause potentially can prevent me from doing that? Or I need to contact the company who owns the game to obtain the permission?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20" LastEditorUserId="20" LastEditDate="2016-01-13T12:53:20.453" LastActivityDate="2016-01-13T12:53:20.453" Title="I've exported 3D models from the game, can I print them?" Tags="|legal|3d-models|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2016-01-14T00:11:54.757" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="169" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="156" CreationDate="2016-01-13T12:48:36.293" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are printers designed for medical use, and the manufacturers supply them with varying levels of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.medicalplasticsnews.com/opinion/passing-the-test_1/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;certification and testing&lt;/a&gt;, however I've not seen a filament manufacturer certify their material as bio-compatible separate from the printer. The printing process changes the material slightly in the best case (and significantly with poor temperature control or badly set parameters), so even if bio-compatible filament were found, the resulting product might not achieve the same level of bio-compatibility.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your intent is to use hobbyist level machine for medical purposes, you might simply want to use an interface, such as a sock or a molded/cast polymer that you know to be bio-compatible between the printed part and the skin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16" LastActivityDate="2016-01-13T12:48:36.293" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="170" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="168" CreationDate="2016-01-13T12:51:12.740" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;No. Such figures are generally covered by copyright, which means that nobody but the copyright holder is allowed to (re-)produce copies of the work. Copyright also covers personal use. In the US there are limited fair use exceptions but they do not apply here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only way to do this legally is if it is specifically authorized in a license or if you get permission.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastActivityDate="2016-01-13T12:51:12.740" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="171" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="174" CreationDate="2016-01-13T12:52:32.577" Score="13" ViewCount="5139" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to print edible cookies or ornamentation for a cake.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is printing with edible materials achievable by standard thermoplastic-like 3D desktop printer? Or you need to buy a special printer to do that?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2019-11-12T01:15:56.393" LastActivityDate="2019-11-14T20:58:20.800" Title="How to print edible food?" Tags="|desktop-printer|food|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="172" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-13T12:57:34.693" Score="2" ViewCount="1143" Body="&lt;p&gt;If a person is running a print shop where there are given STL files by customers, and they print the part for them, does the legality of the printed object matter?  The customer would be supplying the file so the print shop would not know if it was legally obtained (or even what the object is).  Could the print shop get in trouble with the law for this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="43" LastActivityDate="2016-01-13T14:15:53.193" Title="Printing copyrighted objects as a print shop for a customer" Tags="|legal|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2016-01-13T14:29:41.700" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="173" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="171" CreationDate="2016-01-13T12:59:33.003" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can, but that doesn't mean it's very easy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You don't have to buy a special printer, but you need a special extruder (such as &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.structur3d.io/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.structur3d.io/&lt;/a&gt;). Most of these systems can print anything with the consistency of Nutella. However, many parts of the printer may not be food safe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another option (if you simply want 2d designs) is something like the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.pancakebot.com/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;PancakeBot&lt;/a&gt;. It can probably also &quot;print&quot; with anything that has the same consistency of pancake batter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="156" LastActivityDate="2016-01-13T12:59:33.003" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="174" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="171" CreationDate="2016-01-13T13:16:13.917" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;You cannot print edible models using a &quot;standard&quot; consumer 3D printer without first installing an &quot;hot end&quot; capable of depositing edible - normally thicker - substances as well as a suitable extruder mechanism. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, there are not necessarily any technical limitations in the electronics, software, slicers etc. in a typical printer that wouldn't allow you to install such an upgrade. For instance, you could calibrate your extrusion rate and nozzle width to suit batter and similar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some commercial printers, such as the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.personalfab.it/en/products/deltawasp-20-40/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;DeltaWASP&lt;/a&gt; allow for upgrades that print clay, which wouldn't be very different from printing liquid food.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="115" LastActivityDate="2016-01-13T13:16:13.917" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="175" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="147" CreationDate="2016-01-13T13:33:31.257" Score="9" Body="&lt;h3&gt;Food Contact Substances&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are regulatory agencies in most developed countries that regulate food containers.  In the USA, the Food and Drug Administration (FDA) regulates &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fda.gov/Food/IngredientsPackagingLabeling/PackagingFCS/ucm2006853.htm&quot;&gt;Food Contact Substances (FCS)&lt;/a&gt; which are materials that come into contact with food during production, manufacturing, storage, packing, and use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They have many lists of FCS which are either approved for use, generally recognized as safe, regulated, restricted, or otherwise already evaluated and for which they have recommendations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is up to the manufacturer to ensure that FCS are safe, so the liability rests with the person making the 3D prints.  If you make something that looks like a cup and could be confused with a cup, you may be responsible for following these guidelines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;US FDA regulation for ABS and PLA&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The FDA has an online resource to help guide manufacturers through these lists, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fda.gov/Food/IngredientsPackagingLabeling/PackagingFCS/RegulatoryStatusFoodContactMaterial/default.htm&quot;&gt;Determining the Regulatory Status of Components of a Food Contact Material&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Within this, for instance, you will find the list for materials that are appropriately regulated indirect additive, under which you'll find where polymers are listed, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ecfr.gov/cgi-bin/text-idx?node=pt21.3.177&quot;&gt;21 CFR 177&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Part 177, INDIRECT FOOD ADDITIVES: POLYMERS&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Notably, PLA is not present in this section, or any other list that I've searched (but a more thorough search may prove productive).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;ABS is included here, in section 1020, which I've quoted below. Whether your filament manufacturer is following this ABS formula or not is something you will have to determine for each ABS supplier you use, though. Additives, colorants, and other ingredients may make a specific ABS non food safe, according to the FDA.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ecfr.gov/cgi-bin/text-idx?node=pt21.3.177#se21.3.177_11020&quot;&gt;§177.1020   Acrylonitrile/butadiene/styrene co-polymer.&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;  Acrylonitrile/butadiene/styrene copolymer identified in this section&#xA;  may be safely used as an article or component of articles intended for&#xA;  use with all foods, except those containing alcohol, under conditions&#xA;  of use E, F, and G described in table 2 of §176.170(c) of this&#xA;  chapter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;(a) Identity. For the purpose of this section, the&#xA;  acrylonitrile/butadiene/styrene copolymer consists of:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;(1) Eighty-four to eighty-nine parts by weight of a matrix polymer&#xA;  containing 73 to 78 parts by weight of acrylonitrile and 22 to 27&#xA;  parts by weight of styrene; and&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;(2) Eleven to sixteen parts by weight of a grafted rubber consisting&#xA;  of (i) 8 to 13 parts of butadiene/styrene elastomer containing 72 to&#xA;  77 parts by weight of butadiene and 23 to 28 parts by weight of&#xA;  styrene and (ii) 3 to 8 parts by weight of a graft polymer having the&#xA;  same composition range as the matrix polymer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;(b) Adjuvants. The copolymer identified in paragraph (a) of this&#xA;  section may contain adjuvant substances required in its production.&#xA;  Such adjuvants may include substances generally recognized as safe in&#xA;  food, substances used in accordance with prior sanction, substances&#xA;  permitted in this part, and the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Substance Limitations 2-Mercapto- ethanol The finished copolymer shall&#xA;  contain not more than 100 ppm 2-mercaptoethanol acrylonitrile adduct&#xA;  as determined by a method titled “Analysis of Cycopac Resin for&#xA;  Residual β-(2-Hydroxyethylmercapto) propionitrile,” which is&#xA;  incorporated by reference. Copies are available from the Bureau of&#xA;  Foods (HFS-200), Food and Drug Administration, 5100 Paint Branch&#xA;  Pkwy., College Park, MD 20740, or available for inspection at the&#xA;  National Archives and Records Administration (NARA). For information&#xA;  on the availability of this material at NARA, call 202-741-6030, or go&#xA;  to:&#xA;  &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.archives.gov/federal_register/code_of_federal_regulations/ibr_locations.html&quot;&gt;http://www.archives.gov/federal_register/code_of_federal_regulations/ibr_locations.html&lt;/a&gt;.&#xA;  (c) Specifications. (1) Nitrogen content of the copolymer is in the&#xA;  range of 16 to 18.5 percent as determined by Micro-Kjeldahl analysis.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;(2) Residual acrylonitrile monomer content of the finished copolymer&#xA;  articles is not more than 11 parts per million as determined by a gas&#xA;  chromatographic method titled “Determination of Residual Acrylonitrile&#xA;  and Styrene Monomers-Gas Chromatographic Internal Standard Method,”&#xA;  which is incorporated by reference. Copies are available from the&#xA;  Center for Food Safety and Applied Nutrition (HFS-200), Food and Drug&#xA;  Administration, 5100 Paint Branch Pkwy., College Park, MD 20740, or&#xA;  available for inspection at the National Archives and Records&#xA;  Administration (NARA). For information on the availability of this&#xA;  material at NARA, call 202-741-6030, or go to:&#xA;  &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.archives.gov/federal_register/code_of_federal_regulations/ibr_locations.html&quot;&gt;http://www.archives.gov/federal_register/code_of_federal_regulations/ibr_locations.html&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;(d) Extractive limitations. (1) Total nonvolatile extractives not to&#xA;  exceed 0.0005 milligram per square inch surface area when the finished&#xA;  food contact article is exposed to distilled water, 3 percent acetic&#xA;  acid, or n-heptane for 8 days at 120 °F.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;(2) The finished food-contact article shall yield not more than 0.0015&#xA;  milligram per square inch of acrylonitrile monomer when exposed to&#xA;  distilled water and 3 percent acetic acid at 150 °F for 15 days when&#xA;  analyzed by a polarographic method titled “Extracted Acrylonitrile by&#xA;  Differential Pulse Polarography,” which is incorporated by reference.&#xA;  Copies are available from the Center for Food Safety and Applied&#xA;  Nutrition (HFS-200), Food and Drug Administration, 5100 Paint Branch&#xA;  Pkwy., College Park, MD 20740, or available for inspection at the&#xA;  National Archives and Records Administration (NARA). For information&#xA;  on the availability of this material at NARA, call 202-741-6030, or go&#xA;  to:&#xA;  &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.archives.gov/federal_register/code_of_federal_regulations/ibr_locations.html&quot;&gt;http://www.archives.gov/federal_register/code_of_federal_regulations/ibr_locations.html&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;(e) Acrylonitrile copolymers identified in this section shall comply&#xA;  with the provisions of §180.22 of this chapter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;(f) Acrylonitrile copolymers identified in this section are not&#xA;  authorized to be used to fabricate beverage containers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;[42 FR 14572, Mar. 15, 1977, as amended at 42 FR 48543, Sept. 23,&#xA;  1977; 47 FR 11841, Mar. 19, 1982; 54 FR 24897, June 12, 1989]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Regulation globally&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;https://webgate.ec.europa.eu/sanco_foods/main/?event=display&quot;&gt;EU has a database&lt;/a&gt; for this, though without some industry specific experience it appears difficult to search. For instance, rather than listing ABS as an item, it lists the three monomers that constitute ABS seperately, so you have to read through the Acrylonitrile section, the butadiene section, and the styrene sections seperately to understand the food safety aspects of ABS.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course someone has gone to the trouble of parsing all these different regulations in different countries and created a book that summarizes much of what you can glean from individual databases, &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B00W53IY8K&quot;&gt;Global Legislation for Food Contact Materials&lt;/a&gt; J S Baughan but it's not an inexpensive resource, and needs constant update so may need to be repurchased each year to keep up with the latest legislation worldwide. It would, however, be a handy reference and starting point for a hack space or library for makers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Conclusion&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keep in mind that these are regulations formulated by government bodies.  They may have a scientific basis (and hopefully they all do) but they do not replace your own testing and common sense.  Even if you follow these regulations, you may still be liable for any unsafe objects you create.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16" LastActivityDate="2016-01-13T13:33:31.257" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="176" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2" CreationDate="2016-01-13T13:42:23.683" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am going to address the air issue as it is currently unresolved. the third dimension offers &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/15/188&quot;&gt;a great answer for common safety issues&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The short answer is that based on our limited knowledge at this point, there may be imperceptible health hazards related to &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fused_deposition_modeling&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;FDM / FFF printers&lt;/a&gt; and therefore additional safety precautions are, in my opinion, necessary and not optional or secondary as suggested by some in the community.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In other words, if you can isolate your printer in a well-vented area where people rarely go, then of course it's not a health risk, but if people will be exposed to the air of the printer for any significant periods of time, you need to do something about it. This is my situation - where I live dedicated workshops and extra rooms are luxuries that most people do not have.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Realistic Chance of Being Dangerous --&amp;gt; Treat It As Dangerous&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The key information at this point in time is &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S1352231013005086&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;the UFP (Ultra-Fine Particle) study&lt;/a&gt; that is linked in &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/12/188&quot;&gt;Tom's answer&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Leaving out the scary / detailed parts:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Therefore, results herein suggest that caution should be used when&#xA;operating these 3D printing instruments inside unvented or unfiltered&#xA;indoor environments due to their large emissions of UFPs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One important limitation to this study is that we have no information&#xA;about the chemical constituents of the UFPs emitted from either type&#xA;of 3D printer [...]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[...] there may also be&#xA;differences in toxicity because of differences in chemical&#xA;composition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This means that although many processes release UFPs (the authors of the paper compare to cooking), all UFPs are not created equal. Since the UFPs from 3D printing are still an unknown, the only real answer from a safety perspective is to treat them as dangerous.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;This is not legal, safety, or professional advice!&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am not qualified to give an opinion on what should be done but I will share what I would do:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Venting&lt;/strong&gt; - Active airflow pushing the envelope of air around the print into a large, unpopulated body of air.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Enclosure + Venting&lt;/strong&gt; - By fully enclosing your printer, it will probably keep the UFPs mostly within the enclosure. You could combine that with either continuous venting or as some have suggested purge venting before opening the enclosure.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Enclosure + Filtering&lt;/strong&gt; - A filter can be applied both to the vent to reduce the output of UFPs (e.g. if you have no access to a safe body of air) and as a recirculating system that removes the UFPs from the body of air within the enclosure.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;A note on &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.silverstonetek.com/techtalk_cont.php?area=en&amp;amp;tid=wh_positive&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;positive vs negative pressure&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; related to venting and filtering: if you produce positive pressure within the enclosure, you are going to be blowing all the UFPs out into your environment anyway. Negative pressure vented to a safe body of air or neutral pressure with good seals and recirculated filtering may avoid that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;A note on filters&lt;/strong&gt;: Activated carbon filters will not remove UFPs. HEPA filters may remove 3D printing UFPs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Which Printer?&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As long as the uncertainty exists, I predict that as the market matures, filtering and enclosures will become more standard. At this point in time, the only enclosed AND HEPA filtered consumer-grade FDM printers I am aware of are the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.3dhubs.com/3d-printers/up-box&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Up! Box&lt;/a&gt; and the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.3dhubs.com/3d-printers/zortrax-inventure&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Zortrax Inventure&lt;/a&gt;. There are a number of enclosed printers without filtering.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As an alternative, at least &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.3dprintclean.com/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;one company&lt;/a&gt; has appeared with products targeted at those who are concerned about various safety aspects of 3d printing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="188" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:29:41.667" LastActivityDate="2016-01-13T13:42:23.683" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="177" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13" CreationDate="2016-01-13T13:49:23.040" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my experience building with smaller layers also makes bridging and overhangs more pronounced and less likely to fail. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The smaller layers allow gradual changes for overhangs that are more abrupt with thicker layer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="186" LastActivityDate="2016-01-13T13:49:23.040" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="178" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="172" CreationDate="2016-01-13T13:57:00.610" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are two aspects to this question that probably should be addressed separately.  This is not legal advice and I'm not a lawyer, so consult with an experienced IP attorney.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Copyright law may apply, and other IP laws, such as patents and trademarks, may apply.  They each have different requirements and restrictions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Notably, IP law varies from country to country.  WIPO has made significant inroads into regularizing IP law across many countries, but this answer will still focus on a US-centric reading of US IP law.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Copyright law&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's already established that printed works, such as photographs, texts, and similar works will result in prosecution against the person and the company that the person outsourced the copying of the copyrighted work to.  Attempt to copy a book or copyrighted photo at a paper copy shop and they will typically refuse to reduce their liability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even if you show that you have rights to the work, through educational use laws, for instance, they may still refuse because they may be putting themselves in danger of a lawsuit by a particularly aggressive copyright holder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This applies to 3D printing shops in a similar manner.  If you don't know the source of the 3D model, and that the person has a right to the model, you may find yourself liable for copyright infringement.  Even if you are sure, a lawsuit can financially ruin your business if it comes from a large corporation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Patents&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Patents apply even if you were unaware of them.  So any model you print that contains patented techniques, technology, or concepts may also pull you, as the print shop, into a lawsuit for patent infringement. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Reducing liability&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A suitable contract with the person requesting the 3D print, as written by an IP lawyer, may reduce, but not eliminate, your liability. It won't completely absolve you of all responsibility, but may reduce your exposure to such lawsuits, and give you some leverage in court should someone prosecute you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16" LastEditorUserId="16" LastEditDate="2016-01-13T14:15:53.193" LastActivityDate="2016-01-13T14:15:53.193" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="179" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="171" CreationDate="2016-01-13T14:01:36.683" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;MakerBot Industries had a mod available for their early open source machines called the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1143&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Frostruder&lt;/a&gt;. It was basically a syringe connected to your print head. I saw this in action at the University of Washington a long time ago. Check out the legacy &lt;a href=&quot;https://depts.washington.edu/open3dp/2014/12/3d-printed-cookies-more-printable-recipes-frostrusion-walkthrough/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;ReplicatorG in action&lt;/a&gt;!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I like to relate 3D printing as &quot;A hot glue gun on rails&quot;. The beauty is that a lot of the home machines can easily be almost anything on rails.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, you could always try to 3D print a solution of your own. Please keep in mind any federal regulations on food processing materials (ie ABS is not recommended for most food applications).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="98" LastEditorUserId="98" LastEditDate="2019-11-14T20:58:20.800" LastActivityDate="2019-11-14T20:58:20.800" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="180" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="149" CreationDate="2016-01-13T14:03:36.367" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are many factors, here are a few things to check:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd first suspect filament feeding.  This type of ridging can be caused by a filament coil that is binding occasionally, or a filament that doesn't have an even diameter or volume per length.  Binding within the filament feeder and feeder tubes can also be a cause. Bubbles in the filament, or sometimes a mismatch between the filament ideal temperature and the head temperature could create results like this, but it probably wouldn't vary so much between the layers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next I'd look at the print head.  If it has blockages, or poor temperature control this could result.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lastly, I'd check the mechanisms - disconnect the motors and see if all the carriages slide smoothly without any binding, particularly the Z axis.  It doesn't look like you're missing steps, but binding here may result in greater backlash, which could result in similar ridges. Make sure any belts and gears are tight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16" LastActivityDate="2016-01-13T14:03:36.367" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="181" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="194" CreationDate="2016-01-13T14:12:10.063" Score="3" ViewCount="3181" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to print fancy plastic cutlery sets or plastic glasses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it safe to do it? Or bad for your health, if so, why?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20" LastActivityDate="2016-01-13T15:22:26.867" Title="Can you use PLA material with food and drinks?" Tags="|pla|safety|health|food|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="182" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="195" CreationDate="2016-01-13T14:12:59.173" Score="14" ViewCount="9877" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my slicing software (Slic3r) some of the vertices/walls of my model seem to have disappeared, so that the inside of the model - which should be solid - is visible, while the surface appears as a thin shell.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why does this happen? Is it still safe to export the model for printing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="115" LastEditorUserId="156" LastEditDate="2016-01-14T06:09:40.327" LastActivityDate="2020-06-23T20:15:32.593" Title="Why do some models appear broken in slicing software?" Tags="|slic3r|print-preparation|slicing|g-code|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="183" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="91" CreationDate="2016-01-13T14:14:00.997" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;Almost all of the FDM materials outgas even at normal atmospheric pressure, and, in fact, most plastics outgas.  Further, FDM and many other printing processes do not guarantee no internal voids - meaning that putting a 3D printed object into a vacuum may result in breakage, cracking, and possible explosion hazards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For this reason I would focus only on SLA, as the model is printed within the liquid resin pool and should have a reduced possibility of internal voids.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finding a resin that has a low out-gas rate after curing, though, is still going to be difficult. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For this to be answered more completely, you need to specify your tolerable outgassing rate, and the processes used inside the vacuum chamber.  For instance the answer would be completely different if you are discussing an electron microscope vs a sputtering chamber. As a start you might consider companies that specialize in &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boedeker.com/outgas.htm&quot;&gt;engineered materials intended for vacuum use&lt;/a&gt;. They may be able to provide guidance as to which of their materials might be 3D printed and usable in your setup.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16" LastActivityDate="2016-01-13T14:14:00.997" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="184" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-01-13T14:19:12.963" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2016-01-13T14:19:12.963" LastActivityDate="2016-01-13T14:19:12.963" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="185" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-01-13T14:19:12.963" Score="0" Body="For questions regarding RepRap (replicating rapid prototyper) project, its Firmware of the same name and related topics as FFF (Fused Filament Fabrication)." OwnerUserId="30" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2020-03-27T11:45:56.197" LastActivityDate="2020-03-27T11:45:56.197" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="186" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-01-13T14:19:47.883" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2016-01-13T14:19:47.883" LastActivityDate="2016-01-13T14:19:47.883" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="187" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-01-13T14:19:47.883" Score="0" Body="For questions regarding the storage of materials and products of 3D printing." OwnerUserId="30" LastEditorUserId="30" LastEditDate="2016-01-15T17:04:26.010" LastActivityDate="2016-01-15T17:04:26.010" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="188" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-01-13T14:20:38.143" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2016-01-13T14:20:38.143" LastActivityDate="2016-01-13T14:20:38.143" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="189" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-01-13T14:20:38.143" Score="0" Body="For questions regarding the process of filament production." OwnerUserId="30" LastEditorUserId="30" LastEditDate="2016-01-15T17:04:45.427" LastActivityDate="2016-01-15T17:04:45.427" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="190" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="182" CreationDate="2016-01-13T14:21:37.690" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some STLs aren't exported properly from the CAD software.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Use a repair tool or service like &lt;a href=&quot;https://modelrepair.azurewebsites.net&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://modelrepair.azurewebsites.net&lt;/a&gt; .&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The repaired STL shouldn't have those issues anymore.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="157" LastActivityDate="2016-01-13T14:21:37.690" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="191" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="196" CreationDate="2016-01-13T14:36:43.710" Score="9" ViewCount="414" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm interested in designing &amp;amp; 3D printing as a hobby (e.g. printing chess sets, small toys for family etc.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Conducting a Google search has brought up a range of small, cheap printers, but beyond that I don't know how to differentiate them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;E.g. selling points include:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&quot;liquid light-sensitive resin&quot;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&quot;partially assembled&quot; with &quot;very few parts and minor configuration&quot;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&quot;Wi-Fi enabled&quot;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is, &lt;strong&gt;which features are going to benefit a small-scale, new enthusiast to 3D printing?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PS. The software I intend to use is Windows 10 3D design&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PPS. I'm not a graphic designer by any means, just a new enthusiast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user191" LastActivityDate="2022-01-12T18:15:57.873" Title="What criteria do I need to be aware of when buying a 3D printer for personal use?" Tags="|desktop-printer|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="192" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="181" CreationDate="2016-01-13T14:46:49.520" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Having performed a quick search through all the resources at the FDA Food Contact Substance resource, I cannot find PLA in any list except an occasional notification that a specific manufacturer has obtained approval for use in specific circumstances, with the notice that such notifications are only valid for that manufacturer and cannot be used to validate another use of a substance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are companies that have received approval for their specific formulation and use of PLA as a food contact substance.  You may wish to discuss this further with your material supplier to find out if they have approved PLA product available.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Without specific product approval, though, PLA is not on the lists of generally recognized as safe, nor approved for food contact use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regulations in other countries may differ, so you may want to search the EU directives, for instance, to find out their opinion on PLA as an FCS.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16" LastActivityDate="2016-01-13T14:46:49.520" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="193" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="181" CreationDate="2016-01-13T15:07:02.637" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Regardless of whether the actual filament you are printing is marked as Food Safe by the provider, remember that actually printing the filament might contaminate it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you previously have printed a toxic filament on your printer, you cannot be sure no remains of that filament are deposited onto the model. Equally, I believe very few printers only consist of parts that are all marked as Food Safe - the parts that touch the filament that is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another aspect of food safety is your ability to properly clean 3D printed objects. Due to the highly structured surface of 3D printed objects, I would not be certain that they are truly clean after washing, particularly since many plastics cannot be cleaned in a dishwasher.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="115" LastActivityDate="2016-01-13T15:07:02.637" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="194" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="181" CreationDate="2016-01-13T15:22:26.867" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;As others have pointed out, PLA isn't specifically not food safe, but materials that have been printed previously can contaminate the PLA.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally, anything 3D printed is extremely porous. Once a part is used for food, moisture and bacteria will accumulate in the pores, and can never be completely cleaned out, contaminating any food that contacts it. It can't be sterilized either, because the temperatures needed for sterilization would deform or melt the plastic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="156" LastActivityDate="2016-01-13T15:22:26.867" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="195" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="182" CreationDate="2016-01-13T15:48:38.257" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;My understanding is that this occurs when the object is not a true solid. Since an STL holds the triangulation of each face and spline, the slicing engine is not &amp;quot;smart&amp;quot; enough to determine if there is a gap in the model and therefore if it should be filled in and how. When the slicer encounters a gap, it will either treat the endpoint as the end of the feature or navigate to the next point on the layer, resulting in either gaps in the print or extra inclusions that don't make sense.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've noticed that my models will fail as a true solid when I use complex solid tools such as Union, Subtract, and Trim. A lot of times there will be a rounding error in how these tools interact with the solid model that will result in a small (sometimes not very small) gap in the outer shell of the solid model. When exported to an STL, the gap is retained.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;@kareem mentioned it in their answer, but Microsoft does provide online tool(s) for 3D Printing including a solid repair tool. Use &lt;a href=&quot;https://tools3d.azurewebsites.net/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Microsoft 3D Tools&lt;/a&gt; to upload your STL and try to automatically detect and fix issues with your file(s).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="98" LastEditorUserId="98" LastEditDate="2020-06-23T20:15:32.593" LastActivityDate="2020-06-23T20:15:32.593" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="196" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="191" CreationDate="2016-01-13T15:50:07.733" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here are few things to consider from my point of view&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Printing technology&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first thing that you need to take into account is printing technology. The most common[citation needed] right now is Fused Filament Fabrication. &quot;Liquid light-sensitive resin&quot; is being used in Stereolitography and Digital Light Processing - the SLA printers I found are less common and more expensive than FFF ones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Price&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Need to decide on budget. You can buy printer for 60k USD and 400 USD. Quality is somehow linked to price but that's not a rule. You can buy a shitty printer for a lot of money.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Printing area&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bigger allows you to print bigger things. You need to ask yourself how big things you really want to print. Remember that 3d printing is quite slow process - how often you will want to print big things that will take 60hrs+ to finish?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Printing materials&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What kind of materials you want to print with? Some materials will need higher temperatures so check the max hot-end temperature, some will require heated bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Assembled or DIY kit&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can usually get kits for self-assembly cheaper than Ready-To-Print machines. However, it will require additional skills (i.e. soldering), tools and time to assemble. I am not sure if I would buy DIY kit for commercial use, but as an enthusiast I immensely enjoyed putting my Rostock Max together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Reviews and reputation&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is generally safe to buy printer that already has some users. Beware of new magical Kickstarter printers which will &quot;change the 3d printing forever&quot;.&#xA;Reddit /r/3dprinting suggests that your new printer should meet 3 criteria:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Printer passes the youtube test - has lots of youtube evidence that this particular printer is working.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Printer is out of the pre-order phase. This means that all pre-orders have been delivered.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Printer has a reputation of working well among current users.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found it to be a very good set of rules.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Upgrade capabilities&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's very user-dependent, but this point is very important to me. I want to be able to change and improve certain parts of my printer. Check if you can switch the extruder, replace the hot-end etc. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Support&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think one of the most important points. See if you can find a forum for your printer and how active community is. It will be immensely helpful if something goes wrong (and it will).&#xA;Also, company support is very important. What will happen if you need a replacement part or your printer will stop working altogether?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This list is definitely not complete.&#xA;There are many more things that might be taken into account like configuration (delta or XY), multiple extruders, closed cases etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="118" LastActivityDate="2016-01-13T15:50:07.733" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="197" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="191" CreationDate="2016-01-13T16:10:11.913" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;One of the biggest questions you should ask yourself is: What is your end goal? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Is it to get your printer and immediately print something (pre-assembled). &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Is it to learn about 3d printing by constructing a kit, encountering all kinds of potential issues getting it working, then once it is working getting everything all dialed in and then getting good prints. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The 2nd option requires less initial investment but may take considerable time and frustration. (I did this 6 months ago)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="186" LastActivityDate="2016-01-13T16:10:11.913" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="198" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="201" CreationDate="2016-01-13T16:47:37.063" Score="11" ViewCount="3186" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm reading about wiring up the electronic components to my Prusa i3 using an Arduino Mega 2650 and Ramps 1.4.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have step sticks, a heated bed, and a &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B007KG0ZYI&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Switching Power Supply 12v Dc 30a 360w&lt;/a&gt;  (more details on that later when I can add which ones to the post).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've heard that if you wire it wrong and plug it in, you can do anything from starting a fire to burning out your boards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are some tips of things to check before plugging it in? Are there any common mistakes that I can avoid?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastEditorUserId="138" LastEditDate="2016-01-14T23:44:37.743" LastActivityDate="2019-08-15T11:58:24.203" Title="Tips for not burning out my Arduino Mega or catching something on fire when wiring a Prusa i3?" Tags="|reprap|prusa-i3|ramps-1.4|arduino-mega-2650|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="199" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-13T16:57:51.897" Score="13" ViewCount="664" Body="&lt;p&gt;Printer: FDM printer  (FDM == Fusion Deposition Modelling).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Raw Material: Thermoplastics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do I do multicolor printing? What changes should I make to the printing process/to the raw material used?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Answer in the context of printing a basic 3X3 Rubix cube)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bonus: What are the best practises while doing multi-colour printing?   (&amp;lt;-- This is opinion based and/or broad, so pl add an answer to this point as an extra to your answers if you can. It would greatly help people getting started/practising with multi-colour printing) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="163" LastActivityDate="2018-02-20T02:18:45.203" Title="How do I do multi-colour printing?" Tags="|fdm|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="200" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="198" CreationDate="2016-01-13T17:07:41.777" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd say polarity and voltage are the biggest things -- about all you can do is double- and triple-check everything; then check again....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Be very careful about where you feed in 12V power (mainly for heaters and fans), vs. 5v (for the Arduino). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In many cases I found it unclear which way +/- went going &lt;em&gt;out&lt;/em&gt; from the board (the &lt;em&gt;inputs&lt;/em&gt; on my boards were at least marked clearly!). I found that if I plug in a limit switch connector backwards, that connects 5v straight to ground, which will probably make your power supply cut out (assuming it's properly protected -- otherwise it could potentially catch fire). Stepper motors, on the other hand, just run the wrong direction if you plug them onto RAMPS backwards (good design!).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another thing to watch for only comes up if you're powering the Arduino via USB (I do that a lot, since I'm plugged in anyway to send files and such). A short can try to draw too much power from USB. In that case my Mac shuts down USB and gives a message; I don't know what would happen with other hardware.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have heard that plugging a stepper-driver board onto RAMPS backwards is likely to fry a board, and that plugging or unplugging a stepper motor while powered is also risky. But I haven't messed those up yet, so I don't now for sure. :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I may be overly cautious, but I never leave the power supply plugged in when I'm not around.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Best wishes!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Steve&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastActivityDate="2016-01-13T17:07:41.777" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="201" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="198" CreationDate="2016-01-13T17:08:10.407" Score="11" Body="&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Polarity matters, sometimes. Be especially mindful of the wires from your power supply to the board, as getting those the wrong way around will definitely cause damage. Heated beds and extruders are not polarity sensitive, and can go in either way. Fans are polarized, but will probably survive if you get them backwards - they just won't run. Stepper motors don't care about polarity, flipping the connector around just makes them run backwards.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Take special care with endstops. The endstop connectors have 3 pins (VCC, 5V and signal), endstops with 2 pins are usually connect to GND and signal. Putting a 2-pin endstop across 5V and GND will destroy the 5V regulator.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;A common cause of damage is wires not being clamped in their respective terminals properly. The offending wire will arc, melting and destroying the connector. Tighten down screw terminals properly, use proper crimps if you have them. Soldering the ends of wires going into screw terminals is not encouraged, but if you do solder the ends then make sure to check after a while and tighten the screws again.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Put the stepper drivers in the right way around.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;For things like the heated bed and wires going to your power supply, use sufficiently thick wires. Especially with the heated bed, a lot of current flows through the wires and flimsy wires will heat up and melt.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastActivityDate="2016-01-13T17:08:10.407" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="202" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="91" CreationDate="2016-01-13T17:19:22.203" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found much the same question at &lt;a href=&quot;http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?184,140966&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Does PLA outgas?&lt;/a&gt; An answer there pointed to a NASA outgassing database, &lt;a href=&quot;http://outgassing.nasa.gov&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Outgassing Data for Selecting Spacecraft Materials&lt;/a&gt;, and says that:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;ABS (unknown supplier), MakerGeeks PET and Makerbot PLA have been measured and are listed in the NASA database.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Poster there recommended PLA for lower outgassing, and clear PLA because there would be fewer additives to complicate the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2017-02-03T02:12:31.270" LastActivityDate="2017-02-03T02:12:31.270" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="203" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="247" CreationDate="2016-01-13T17:57:10.633" Score="11" ViewCount="10482" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have noticed that &lt;a href=&quot;http://slic3r.org/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Slic3r&lt;/a&gt; offers a speed setting called &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;http://slic3r.org/blog/new-stable-1.2.9&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;auto speed&lt;/a&gt;&quot; meant to give a constant filament pressure at the extruder, which I believe could eliminate filament grinding issues at higher printing speeds. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to the tooltip in Slic3r, auto speed is calculated from two parameters:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Maximum speed&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Maximum volumetric speed&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maximum speed speaks for itself, but how can I calculate the maximum volumetric speed of my print?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="115" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2018-08-18T09:41:39.257" LastActivityDate="2018-08-18T09:41:39.257" Title="How can I calculate volumetric speed for Slic3r auto speed?" Tags="|slic3r|print-preparation|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="204" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="355" CreationDate="2016-01-13T18:02:27.633" Score="23" ViewCount="2800" Body="&lt;p&gt;I upgraded to an Mk9 dual extruder, and it came with thermocouples installed instead of the thermistors I had before. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No matter what I did with the thermocouples, the indicated temperature jumped around by as much as 30C or more. In short, after several weeks of fiddling I never got the thermocouples to work well, and replaced them with thermistors, which have been fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So my question is: what is required to get thermocouples to give reliable, consistent, accurate readings? Are they just incredibly touchy?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some things I tried include:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Of course, one must add circuitry (typically a thermocouple amplifier board such as &lt;a href=&quot;http://wiki.ultimaker.com/Thermocouple_Sensor_Board_v1&quot;&gt;http://wiki.ultimaker.com/Thermocouple_Sensor_Board_v1&lt;/a&gt;), to convert the tiny voltage differences to larger differences usable with Arduino or similar analog inputs.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Place those boards close to the thermocouples, but far enough that they are at pretty stable temperature themselves.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Have absolutely no wire extensions of splices, changes of wire types (material), etc.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Avoid doing repeated measurements too fast.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I replaced a thermocouple board with 5V through a potentiometer to the analog input pin, to rule out problems in the Arduino, pin configurations, or software, and got stable readings.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I checked for shorts-to-ground from the heater block, both sides of the thermocouples, the heater itself, etc. None found.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The thermocouple wires are surrounded by a braided shield (not common or shorted to either thermocouple wire); I tried grounding that at either end and at both ends, to the heat block, the printer frame, the power-supply ground, and the RAMPS board ground. These had various effects (sometimes large), but I couldn't find any configuration that made the readings stable (much less accurate!).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anything I'm missing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Steve&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastEditorUserId="98" LastEditDate="2016-06-09T02:07:18.783" LastActivityDate="2016-06-09T02:07:18.783" Title="How to get consistent and accurate readings from thermocouples?" Tags="|extruder|maintenance|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="205" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="199" CreationDate="2016-01-13T18:08:23.727" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a few different approaches I've seen which you could look into.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The easiest and most common is multiple extruders, each with a different color of thermoplastic. Tools like Pronterface and Slic3r have built-in support for multiple extruders. With multiple extruders you can get one color per extruder; there's no clear way to mix colors and get a color between the input materials' colors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another, more complicated approach is to use a single extruder with three inputs, like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Diamond-hotend-Prusa-i3-Extruder-Full-kit-E3D-V6-Brass-Multi-Color-Nozzle-3-IN-1/32516521911.html&quot;&gt;this one&lt;/a&gt;, where thermoplastic from the three inputs can be mixed in varying amounts to get color gradients between the input colors. With red, yellow, and blue filament, you could get a rainbow of colors...albeit without any control over value (white to black) or saturation (bright vs dull color).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="131" LastActivityDate="2016-01-13T18:08:23.727" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="206" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="162" CreationDate="2016-01-13T18:19:14.163" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a few methods to simplify your workflow.  Two solutions are outlined below and both feature a documented API you can use to further customize your workflow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://octoprint.org/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;OctoPrint&lt;/a&gt; was mentioned by other users.  OctoPrint will allow you to configure your printer, print profiles and upload STLs for printing from a web interface.  You can configure profiles, slicers and slicer profiles for OctoPrint to use to complete your workflow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.astroprint.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Astroprint&lt;/a&gt; offers cloud slicing services in addition to features allowing you to manage printers and print profiles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="174" LastActivityDate="2016-01-13T18:19:14.163" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="207" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="149" CreationDate="2016-01-13T19:19:52.753" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;As with many topics in 3D printing, there can be many variables that produce this result.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Immediately, your images make me think that the belts on your machine are not tight enough. This can cause noise in every direction of movement and is more prominent in backlash areas. I would suggest going through your general maintenance checklist:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Replace Build Plate tape&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Level build plate (An uneven plate or improper height can yield these results as well)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Teach your axis belts&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Clean/lube guide rails&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Clean drive gears&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keeping up on your maintenance (I do mine about every 5 prints) should reduce noise in your motion and ensure better quality prints, mechanically speaking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As mentioned above, your results may be caused by your BP being leveled too low (or too high). If your build plate height is off, the filament will not adhere to previous layers very well (if too low) and can cause this back and forth &quot;spaghetti noddle&quot; effect on outer layers. If the build plate is too high, you might see the nozzle physically &quot;spreading&quot; the previous layer around as the nozzle digs into the layer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another possible fix for this would be to play with the settings in your slicing engine that involve the order that shell/roof/floor layers are printed. ie Start inside-out or start outside-in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="98" LastEditorUserId="98" LastEditDate="2016-01-13T21:43:21.223" LastActivityDate="2016-01-13T21:43:21.223" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="208" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-13T20:02:02.020" Score="9" ViewCount="682" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm considering buying &lt;a href=&quot;http://reprapworld.com/?products_details&amp;amp;products_id/783/cPath/1680&quot;&gt;this package&lt;/a&gt;, the Kossel, as my first 3D printer.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's not the cheapest model, but apparently a high resolution and stable, which is what I'm after.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The question is, what is the life expectancy of this printer, given the component list?&#xA;Assuming the printer is constructed properly and properly taken care of, but used once or twice a week for several hours.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it possible to make an estimate of how many years this particular printer could be used before it starts showing signs of wear? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Parts list:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1x Complete set of platics for Kossel Mini (PLA)&lt;br&gt;&#xA;1x Kossel mini Extrusion set&lt;br&gt;&#xA;1x traxxas (set of 12)&lt;br&gt;&#xA;1x Carbon Tube (kossel printing arms) Set of 6&lt;br&gt;&#xA;3x Square slider (40cm)&lt;br&gt;&#xA;1x Megatronics v3.0 - Kossel kit&lt;br&gt;&#xA;1x Heated Bed glass round 17cm diameter (Borosilicate)&lt;br&gt;&#xA;1x Kapton heater mat round 16cm diameter&lt;br&gt;&#xA;1x Power supply 12V (240/115V / 20A MAX)&lt;br&gt;&#xA;3x Aluminum Pulley GT2&lt;br&gt;&#xA;5x Timing belt 1m x 6mm (GT2)&lt;br&gt;&#xA;1x E3D v6 - HotEnd Full Kit - 1.75mm&lt;br&gt;&#xA;1x Hobbed bolt v1.1&lt;br&gt;&#xA;1x Brass drive gear (Wade's compatible)&lt;br&gt;&#xA;6x Bearing 623ZZ&lt;br&gt;&#xA;125x (1 pcs) Screw M3X8 Philips&lt;br&gt;&#xA;125x (1 pcs) Washer M3 normal&lt;br&gt;&#xA;125x (1 pcs) Nut M3 normal&lt;br&gt;&#xA;6x (1 pcs) Screw M3X16 Philips&lt;br&gt;&#xA;12x (1 pcs) Screw M3X25 Philips&lt;br&gt;&#xA;6x (1 pcs) Screw M3X20 Philips&lt;br&gt;&#xA;10x PTFE tubing, 2inner/4outer diameter (10cm)&lt;br&gt;&#xA;1x Bowden setup - J head comp. plug set (1.75mm)&lt;br&gt;&#xA;1x E3D v6 - Threaded Bowden Coupling - 1.75mm&lt;br&gt;&#xA;2x (1 pcs) Screw M3X40 Philips&lt;br&gt;&#xA;6x (1 pcs) Screw M2X16 Philips&lt;br&gt;&#xA;1x Power cable 1.8m&lt;br&gt;&#xA;6x M4 Threaded rod - Custom length  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="65" LastActivityDate="2016-01-16T22:07:41.353" Title="What is the life expectancy of the Kossel?" Tags="|quality|life-expectancy|kossel|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="209" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-13T20:30:30.690" Score="6" ViewCount="1359" Body="&lt;p&gt;A fellow maker has tried printing a 3D model in clear PLA (&amp;lt;5% infill, 1 or 2 perimeters), burying it most of the way into casting sand, and then pouring molten aluminum. This melts and burns the PLA, and the aluminum takes the space that the printed model used to take.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's plenty of room for improvement in his process, but I'm asking about what he can do in terms of the 3D printing process to make his prints more casting-friendly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What print settings are (generally) best for use in this sort of casting?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What materials, if any, would work better than unpigmented PLA? (Must be a material that a typical thermoplastic FDM printer can handle.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any other tips or considerations?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="131" LastActivityDate="2016-03-11T13:16:18.360" Title="How can I optimize my print for casting in metal?" Tags="|fdm|pla|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="210" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="213" CreationDate="2016-01-13T20:35:45.770" Score="8" ViewCount="5388" Body="&lt;p&gt;How do I determine how much an individual print costs?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd like an answer including support material, failed prints, and (ideally) wear and tear / printer maintenance costs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To clarify, I'm not asking how to &lt;em&gt;predict&lt;/em&gt; the cost before printing, but rather how to calculate the actual cost after printing. Though predicting the cost beforehand is useful as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="131" LastEditorUserId="131" LastEditDate="2016-01-13T20:52:28.487" LastActivityDate="2019-06-25T10:59:15.330" Title="How do I calculate the cost of a 3D print once it's done?" Tags="|cost|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="211" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-13T20:41:04.500" Score="9" ViewCount="2231" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to make custom cake molds. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've asked about this in a few stores that specialize in cooking equipment, they said this wasn't possible. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wonder if 3D printing makes it possible. It would require a material that is food-safe, as per &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/147/which-are-the-food-safe-materials-and-how-do-i-recognize-them&quot;&gt;Which are the food-safe materials and how do I recognize them?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, there are two extra conditions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The material must be able to withstand the heat of an oven or microwave, and not mix with the dough.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It should not be too difficult to remove the cake from the mold after it is ready.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first condition is where this question is a little different from &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/181/can-you-use-pla-material-with-food-and-drinks&quot;&gt;Can you use PLA material with food and drinks?&lt;/a&gt; - that question is about cutlery and glasses, not about things that go into the oven or microwave.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a material that can be used for this purpose?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="65" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T13:00:58.447" LastActivityDate="2016-01-14T03:02:04.493" Title="What material can I use to make my own cake molds?" Tags="|food|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="212" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="227" CreationDate="2016-01-13T20:46:13.137" Score="29" ViewCount="74606" Body="&lt;p&gt;When the print head changes direction, the printer must accelerate and decelerate the print head. When calibrated correctly, the printer is able to do this quickly and without causing the printer to shake too much, without drastically slowing down the print process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I set it too high, my printer shakes violently, especially during infill. If I set it too low, print times are doubled or tripled.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What process can I follow to determine (or how can I calculate) the fastest acceleration value my printer can use without causing problems in my print?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd prefer a process I can follow over a formula I can plug values into, especially if the formula includes magic numbers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="131" LastActivityDate="2021-09-14T13:45:25.420" Title="How do I determine the acceleration value for my printer?" Tags="|calibration|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="213" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="210" CreationDate="2016-01-13T20:49:46.307" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;For &lt;a href=&quot;http://3dprintingfromscratch.com/common/types-of-3d-printers-or-3d-printing-technologies-overview/#fdm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;FDM&lt;/a&gt; printing: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both Cura and Makerbot Desktop (and perhaps others I'm not as familiar with) will give you a preview of both the length and weight of your print, including supports/rafts. Once the print is done you can weigh it on a kitchen scale.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PLA Filament currently runs about \$23/kg on Amazon, which works out to \$0.023/g. Multiplication can then give you a good estimate of materials costs for a print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Only experience with your specific printer will give you an idea of how often you're going to hit a failed print, and how often you're going to need to replace parts. For wear and tear you could try using a depreciation model of 2-3 years, but that's only an estimate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="212" LastEditorUserId="5" LastEditDate="2018-09-14T00:43:57.293" LastActivityDate="2018-09-14T00:43:57.293" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="214" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="634" CreationDate="2016-01-13T20:50:38.520" Score="19" ViewCount="19049" Body="&lt;p&gt;Using a thermoplastic MDF printer with a 0.4mm extruder nozzle, I frequently have trouble with the nozzle getting clogged.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am not sure what's causing the clog, but my guesses are dust and/or burnt filament (from leaving the hot end on without extruding).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What can I do to prevent, or at least minimize, the extruder nozzle getting clogged?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bonus question: What other common causes of clogs are there? (ie what should I watch out for besides dust and leaving the hot end on?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="131" LastEditorUserId="98" LastEditDate="2016-06-09T02:12:05.443" LastActivityDate="2016-06-16T13:21:14.590" Title="How do I keep my extruder head from getting clogged?" Tags="|extruder|fdm|maintenance|extrusion|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="215" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-13T20:59:21.280" Score="25" ViewCount="116340" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've occasionally had issues with excess filament residue getting stuck to the print bed. &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/78/how-can-i-stop-my-print-bed-tape-from-sticking-to-the-filament&quot;&gt;There are ways to prevent this&lt;/a&gt;, but sometimes even these precautions aren't enough. Over time, residue can build up. I've observed this in some printers, though not others.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any techniques to best clean print beds? In the past, I've used various typical cleaning supplies, with different degrees of success. However, I don't know if this will lead to damage to the printer over time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The printer I'm using has a glass print bed, which I occasionally partially cover with blue painter's tape during printing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="61" LastEditorUserId="61" LastEditDate="2016-01-14T21:29:33.530" LastActivityDate="2020-08-29T04:38:15.443" Title="How can I best clean the print bed after a print?" Tags="|maintenance|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="216" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="221" CreationDate="2016-01-13T21:00:04.907" Score="16" ViewCount="3425" Body="&lt;p&gt;My thermoplastic FDM printer has a heated bed and uses glass as the printing surface. Sometimes the glass will chip or break entirely when I'm removing my print. This happens most often when the print has a large area in contact with the glass.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What can I do to keep this from happening?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="131" LastEditorUserId="98" LastEditDate="2016-03-21T22:55:13.183" LastActivityDate="2019-05-01T10:59:43.940" Title="My heated glass print bed keeps chipping and cracking. How can I prevent this?" Tags="|fdm|heated-bed|hbp|fff|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="217" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="199" CreationDate="2016-01-13T21:01:45.330" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here are the methods of printing with multiple colors that I'm aware of (from the most common to the rarest):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Print each color separately and the assembly/glue them together - this isn't technically multicolor printing but this I the most common solution since most printers aren't multi-color&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Multiple extruders, one for each color - this is by far the easiest and mot common multi-color setup, but it won't help with a rubic cube because I don't think its practical to build a printer with 6 extruders&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The multi color hotend from @MartinCarney answer that feed multiple filaments into a single nozzle - I really don't know anything about those hotends&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Last, there's a trick you can use that stops in mid-print and let you swap filament, more information in &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PytBrb1s9SY&quot;&gt;this youtube video&lt;/a&gt;, but this also won't help with a rubic cube because you can't use different colors in the same layer&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="170" LastActivityDate="2016-01-13T21:01:45.330" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="218" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="149" CreationDate="2016-01-13T21:04:16.403" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Have you recently leveled your print bed? By placing the nozzle too close to the bed on the first layer the first layer will seem over extruded. If there are no infill layers after the first layer, these layers will seem over extruded as well since the extra filament will have nowhere to go. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A typical sign of too close bed leveling is that the bottom layers seem over extruded, while layers after regions of infill appear normally extruded. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="115" LastActivityDate="2016-01-13T21:04:16.403" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="219" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="210" CreationDate="2016-01-13T21:08:07.263" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are many factors that make up the cost of a print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Filament base cost-calculate the cost per gram * number of grams used&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Power used by the printer-power cost * time&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Setup time for the printer-hourly cost * time&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Print time (as you could be printing other objects)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Print area - you can run multiple prints at once&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Chance of print failure - (1+ %of failure) * cost of materials and time&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;cost of printer (divided over expected prints&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;printer maintenance&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;profit margin&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="43" LastActivityDate="2016-01-13T21:08:07.263" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="220" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="215" CreationDate="2016-01-13T21:11:48.290" Score="11" Body="&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If you are printing with ABS (or PLA), acetone will dissolve it.  Simply pour&#xA;some on the bed and wipe it off (beware, acetone can damage beds that have a coating or a plastic sheet over them, be sure to test this first).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Heating the bed back up may make the plastic softer and easier to&#xA;remove.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If you are using tape on the bed, you could remove the tape to remove&#xA;the plastic stuck to the tape.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="43" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-08-29T04:38:15.443" LastActivityDate="2020-08-29T04:38:15.443" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="221" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="216" CreationDate="2016-01-13T21:11:59.080" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some things I've tried that have helped:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lay down a layer of masking tape. Most people who do this use blue painter's tape. The plastic should stick nicely during printing, yet release reasonably easily when you remove the print from the heated bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lay down a later of Kapton tape. The principle is the same as masking tape, but Kapton tape has a smooth surface and is more durable than masking tape. The down side is Kapton tape is far more expensive, and applying it correctly is a LOT more work, since you have to use water and you have to keep bubbles from getting underneath it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Put some ABS scraps into a bottle of Acetone, and allow the acetone to break down the ABS til you have a slurry. Spread this slurry as evenly as possible across the build plate, and allow the acetone to evaporate away. This leaves a thin film of ABS on the plate, and will release much better than if you print directly onto the build plate. I recommend using clear ABS if you can, since some of it will stick to your print and clear will be the least visible. You'll need to re-apply it regularly, since it will come off with your print where it touches the build plate. &lt;strong&gt;WARNING&lt;/strong&gt;: Use proper ventilation and avoid contact with acetone. That stuff's not good for you. Also it's flammable, so keep a fire extinguisher nearby.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I prefer the ABS/acetone slurry method, but it requires good ventilation and a handy fire extinguisher. Also note that you don't have to print in ABS to use an ABS/acetone slurry; I print primarily in PLA and it makes no difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've also heard of others using a glue stick or some other surface treatments that allow for good adhesion during printing while still allowing for easy removal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="131" LastActivityDate="2016-01-13T21:11:59.080" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="222" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="216" CreationDate="2016-01-13T21:20:39.950" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can try using a raft with a bottom that is not 100% solid.  Something with lines or crossing lines will lessen the contact area with the bed making it easier to remove.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: reducing the adhesion to the bed will make prints more likely to fail.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="43" LastActivityDate="2016-01-13T21:20:39.950" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="223" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-13T21:23:20.463" Score="5" ViewCount="4026" Body="&lt;p&gt;For a science project, I'm 3D-printing some custom pipes and tubes to regulate the flow of gas (a combination of ethyl alcohol and water vapor) through an apparatus. They need to be pretty small, as the entire experiment is designed on a small scale. I'd also like the use a little filament as possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How thin can I make the walls of these pipes and tubes before either they collapse or gas leaks out? I know that's possibly an engineering issue, but I'd also need to take resolution into consideration. Ideally, the pipes would be about two centimeters in diameter, possibly a little larger or a little smaller in some parts. I'd most likely use ABS, but PLA is my backup in case there's some unforeseen reaction between the gas and the pipes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The printer I'm using is an FDM printer, a version of the MakerBot Replicator.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="61" LastEditorUserId="61" LastEditDate="2016-01-13T21:38:04.687" LastActivityDate="2018-12-04T16:58:37.780" Title="How thin can I make the wall of a pipe?" Tags="|fdm|abs|makerbot|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="224" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="149" CreationDate="2016-01-13T21:28:09.113" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It appears the heatbreak of my E3D nozzle had worked itself loose from the heatsink, allowing the nozzle to wobble around a bit. Because the nozzle was still tight against the heatbreak I didn't experience any issues with my hotend, but because the heatbreak was slightly loose the nozzle wasn't properly constrained and moving around a bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A quick turn to tighten the heatsink back into the heatbreak was enough to fully resolve the issue. My prints are as smooth as ever now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastActivityDate="2016-01-13T21:28:09.113" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="225" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="212" CreationDate="2016-01-13T22:00:20.880" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;A tool that you might find useful for experimenting with acceleration is &lt;a href=&quot;http://prusaprinters.org/calculator/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;RepRap Centrals Acceleration Calculator&lt;/a&gt; (at the bottom).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By setting an &lt;em&gt;acceleration&lt;/em&gt;, &lt;em&gt;length of travel&lt;/em&gt; and &lt;em&gt;target speed&lt;/em&gt;, you can see:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The theoretical speed that can be achieved during the travel with your set acceleration (yellow line).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The distance required to reach your target speed, and for how long it will hold that speed before slowing down (blue line).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For instance, setting &lt;code&gt;acceleration = 3000, length = 30 and speed = 150&lt;/code&gt; means it will travel 4 mm before reaching its desired speed of 150 mm/s, while that same acceleration theoretically could give a speed of 300 mm/s for the given distance: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/g13l3.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/g13l3.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Calculating speed, acceleration and jerk:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In many cases your printer will have some limitation in maximum speed or settings given by your provider that can be used as a starting point. If not, trial and error is the most straightforward way of doing it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would separate speed calibration into three task:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;First find the &lt;em&gt;maximum speed&lt;/em&gt; your printer can tolerate. One way of doing this is to print an object with long travel distances, and vary the maximum travel speed.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Using the calculator above, increase the &lt;em&gt;acceleration&lt;/em&gt; for various traveling distances until you get suitably smooth acceleration curves for your desired speed for medium to long traveling distances.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Adjust your &lt;em&gt;jerk&lt;/em&gt; setting to allow for quick speedup on short traveling distances. Jerk speed is the speed that the printer will immediately jump to before taking acceleration into account. With a jerk of 20mm/s, the printer will make an immediate jump from 0 to 20 mm/s, and thereafter speed up to the desired speed by following the acceleration profile.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a rule of thumb, it might be smart to then set the actual speed, jerk and acceleration approximately 20% below the the maximum found as a safeguard when printing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, bear in mind that &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.no/search?q=stepper%20motor%20strength%20curve%20NEMA%2017&amp;amp;espv=2&amp;amp;biw=1920&amp;amp;bih=985&amp;amp;tbm=isch&amp;amp;tbo=u&amp;amp;source=univ&amp;amp;sa=X&amp;amp;ved=0ahUKEwi74aLL46fKAhVIdCwKHdJbDa4QsAQIGg&amp;amp;dpr=1#imgrc=NbUjFTxiWehyKM%3A&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;the strength of stepper motors lowers for higher speeds&lt;/a&gt;, so that the nozzle will not hold its path very well if obstructed. If this becomes a problem, consider lowering the speed.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="115" LastEditorUserId="115" LastEditDate="2017-01-05T15:20:41.750" LastActivityDate="2017-01-05T15:20:41.750" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="226" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="223" CreationDate="2016-01-13T22:02:49.960" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;The thinnest wall your printer can print is determined by its nozzle size, and will be a little thicker than that nozzle size.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A great challenge when dealing with thin, hollow cylinders is that the cross-section has very little surface area and it can delaminate easily, especially if the tube is long.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could try printing the tube with a very thick extrusion with, and using only a single perimeter. That would give better gas-tightness and layer adhesion than two, thinner perimeters, but it may turn out too fragile for your application. In that case, you'll need to print additional perimeters. Sticking to thicker extrusion widths would still be beneficial.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At a two centimeter diameter I'd say the single perimeter has a decent chance of working if you handle them gingerly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastActivityDate="2016-01-13T22:02:49.960" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="227" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="212" CreationDate="2016-01-13T22:03:45.240" Score="18" Body="&lt;p&gt;As Tom pointed out, binary search is the best way. In case that term isn't familiar to all readers, here's a little more detail:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Establish an acceleration value that you're sure is too low (call it &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$L$&lt;/span&gt;), and one that you're sure is too high (&lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$H$&lt;/span&gt;). It sounds like you know such values already from experience.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Figure out the speed in the middle: &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$(L+H)/2$&lt;/span&gt;.  Call that &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$M$&lt;/span&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Try printing at speed &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$M$&lt;/span&gt;. Something like a stepped calibration cube might be a good choice of object (plenty available on Thingiverse).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$M$&lt;/span&gt; is still too fast, take &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$M$&lt;/span&gt; as your new high-speed limit (that is, reset &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$H$&lt;/span&gt; to the value of &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$M$&lt;/span&gt;), and repeat from step #2.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If it's slow enough to work, take &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$M$&lt;/span&gt; as your new low-speed limit (&lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$L$&lt;/span&gt;), and repeat from step #2.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Each repetition will cut the range in half. Keep repeating until &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$L$&lt;/span&gt; and &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$H$&lt;/span&gt; get as close as you want; say, within 5&amp;nbsp;% of each other or so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wouldn't bother trying to get super-close, because the workable value will vary somewhat over time (friction from dust getting on various parts; slight voltage differences; different mass and pulling tension for the filament roll, temperature of motors, complexity of the object you're printing, behavior of the slicing program you use, you name it).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2019-06-18T14:33:30.010" LastActivityDate="2019-06-18T14:33:30.010" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="228" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="214" CreationDate="2016-01-13T22:35:11.753" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Lubricating the filament is the most common solution I've heard of to stop filament jams and clogs. Lubricating makes for a smoother ride through the print head. While you're at it, make sure that the filament is clean. The best way to stop jams from dust is to get rid of the dust in the first place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some people recommend &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:103729&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;canola oil&lt;/a&gt;, which I've heard works reasonably well for both ABS and PLA (though especially for PLA). You can even &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:52203&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;3D-print dust filters/lubricators&lt;/a&gt;, if you think this could be a serious issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I personally try to clean the print head regularly, after every couple prints or even after each print, if I have time. Something sharp, like tweezers, can pick off bits of filament near the tip of the nozzle. I haven't tried other utensils yet, but there are certainly other tools that would work. I've also heard of people regulating temperature with a fan, in order to prevent partially melted bits of filament clogging up the inside of the nozzle, but I don't know if that's effective.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In some cases, the problem could even be as mundane as a support issue. I once set up a spool of filament, only to have a jam when the support for the spool failed, leaving the line of filament tugging at the nozzle and clogging it. Taking steps to prevent this from happening can be simply and effective. Whatever the cause, preventative measures are always my choice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="61" LastActivityDate="2016-01-13T22:35:11.753" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="229" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="230" CreationDate="2016-01-13T23:34:03.707" Score="9" ViewCount="9621" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am reconfiguring a Printrbot Simple Metal that has been retrofitted with a RAMPS+Arduino Mega running Marlin, with a fairly slow feedrate due to mechanical and quality limitations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am finding that upon cancelling a print where something goes wrong, I have a long period of time in which the printer is continuing to print from the G-code and movement buffer, although the host software (Octoprint) has long stopped sending G-code.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a way I can either a) configure Marlin to have a smaller print buffer (since Octoprint has no trouble keeping up with the printer as it stands) or b) send a particular signal or G-code to the printer that stops it without continuing to read buffer contents?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="62" LastActivityDate="2016-01-14T16:28:26.077" Title="How do I set the G-code buffer size on Marlin?" Tags="|g-code|firmware|marlin|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="230" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="229" CreationDate="2016-01-13T23:39:51.063" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Marlin does allow one to change the size of the buffers, in &lt;code&gt;Configuration_adv.h&lt;/code&gt;. In the current version there's an ifdef that switches between two cases, one with SD support, and the other without. Both have a movement planner of size 16, which can be adjusted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally, in the same file, &lt;code&gt;BUFSIZE&lt;/code&gt; can be changed to modify the size of the buffer storing &lt;em&gt;unparsed&lt;/em&gt; commands before they are parsed and enter the movement planner buffer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally, for some firmwares, &lt;code&gt;M112&lt;/code&gt; will immediately shut down the printer, no matter what is in the buffer, but the reset button will need to be used, and the axes will not be homed afterward. In Marlin, it's hardcoded to call &lt;code&gt;kill()&lt;/code&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="62" LastEditorUserId="95" LastEditDate="2016-01-14T16:28:26.077" LastActivityDate="2016-01-14T16:28:26.077" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="231" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-01-14T00:11:22.200" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Marlin is an open source firmware for the RepRap family of replicating rapid prototypers — popularly known as “3D printers” -  and CNCs, both cartesian and other geometries. It was derived from Sprinter and grbl, and became a standalone open source project on August 12, 2011 with its Github release. More details &lt;a href=&quot;http://marlinfw.org/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Use this tag for questions regarding Marlin-specific configuration, features, or issues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="98" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-10-25T09:41:31.600" LastActivityDate="2018-10-25T09:41:31.600" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="232" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-01-14T00:11:22.200" Score="0" Body="Questions about the 3D printer firmware Marlin." OwnerUserId="62" LastEditorUserId="98" LastEditDate="2016-02-08T14:16:56.047" LastActivityDate="2016-02-08T14:16:56.047" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="233" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="240" CreationDate="2016-01-14T00:23:36.260" Score="26" ViewCount="8036" Body="&lt;p&gt;I often switch my print material, i.e. ABS / PLA / Wood / Flex,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I best clean out my extruder between them to ensure I don't contaminate my next print?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="47" LastEditorUserId="47" LastEditDate="2016-01-14T00:31:05.403" LastActivityDate="2016-01-19T11:28:09.540" Title="How should I clean my extruder when changing materials?" Tags="|maintenance|print-material|extruder|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="234" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="223" CreationDate="2016-01-14T00:47:04.350" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The thinnest possible will be a single outline, so the best you can possibly do is slightly larger than your nozzle size.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The biggest issues I see in terms of making a thin airtight tubes are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Complex geometry: anywhere you have overhangs you may need to increase the wall thickness to ensure a sealed overlap.  Bridging will need extra layers to ensure good layer adhesion and any supports will have to be removed carefully to not damage the surface.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Perimeter start/end: The joint where the perimeter starts/ends not only has to seal to the layer below but it has to seal with the now cooling start point.  This could be especially problematic if all of your layers are started at the same point (which visually produces a vertical seam) because you don't have a smooth perimeter on the previous layer and any imperfections in the joint are compounded.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thoughts:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Print on end where possible: You'll get a higher quality outer perimeter if your layers are full rings instead of printing up both sides of a pipe on its side.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you can manage a single perimeter when printing on end try using the &quot;spiral vase&quot; setting, which will smoothly raise the z position and print as a spiral instead of printing discrete layers.  This removes any issues related to sealing the start/end of a perimeter.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you're printing with multiple perimeters increment the wall thickness in multiples of the nozzle size to ensure the perimeters are sealed together.  Having the perimeters not bound together increases the chance of leaks and reduces stiffness.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do the pipes have to have the same thickness all along them?  You can probably reduce thickness to save material for simple geometry (straight sections) if you change thickness gently.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17" LastActivityDate="2016-01-14T00:47:04.350" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="235" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="208" CreationDate="2016-01-14T01:51:31.343" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Much like your car, the number of miles, or the number of prints that you can get out of it is entirely up to how well &lt;strong&gt;you&lt;/strong&gt; can maintain it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A 3D Printer is a machine, and a machine needs general maintenance; if you see something starting to break - or get worn out - or anything abnormal, fix it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am sure that if you had something like a MakerBot, it would require less maintenance then a fully home built machine, but if you are building it from scratch, I am sure you don't mind.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am still rocking a 3 year old home built MendalMax, and have both made some improvements, and had to make some repairs along the way - but it is still in damn good condition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a $600 investment, I can say you will get a few years out of it if you take proper care of it. By the time the end of its life comes (5+ years), I am sure there will be much better printers available for cheaper, and you will never look back :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tighten all your nuts and bolts&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Keep it calibrated&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Keep belts properly tensioned&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Oil X, Y, and Z rods&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Clean of any dust and scrap plastic (compressed air can?)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Clean hobbed bolt&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Clean extruder&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ensure all electronic connections are secure&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check wires at points of movement for wear&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;!remindme 5years&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="47" LastEditorUserId="47" LastEditDate="2016-01-14T01:57:14.863" LastActivityDate="2016-01-14T01:57:14.863" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="236" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="211" CreationDate="2016-01-14T02:17:35.520" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would say that &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fused_deposition_modeling&quot;&gt;FDM&lt;/a&gt; printing in general is out of the question for this task, ABS and PLA would both melt in the oven, and the grooves in the print from the FDM process would make it a nightmare to clean.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My initial thought was an &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stereolithography&quot;&gt;SLA&lt;/a&gt; printer ( $1000+ ) which uses a &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Photopolymer&quot;&gt;Photopolymer Resin&lt;/a&gt; hardened by a UV light, and &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Photopolymer#Medical_uses&quot;&gt;based on its medical uses&lt;/a&gt;, I would think that it is food safe - I do not know what its melting point is however.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another idea, one that would not too easily be done in house, is porcelain. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.shapeways.com/materials/porcelain-ceramic&quot;&gt;Shapeways offers a service&lt;/a&gt; that you could use for this - they say just $9 per part, 125 x 125 x 200mm maximum dimms, both food and oven safe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="47" LastActivityDate="2016-01-14T02:17:35.520" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="237" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="233" CreationDate="2016-01-14T02:32:28.400" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;In most cases, removing the old filament from the printer, inserting the new filament in, and running the new filament through the printer for a short period of time will clean the nozzle.  The skirt of the print can also be a time during the actual print for the old filament to be flushed.  Assuming the skirt is long enough, all that needs to be done is the new filament inserted and the print started.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming that extruding new filament does not fix the problem, there is a more serious problem such as a clogged extrusion head that needs to be fixed with other methods.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="43" LastEditorUserId="43" LastEditDate="2016-01-14T12:59:34.453" LastActivityDate="2016-01-14T12:59:34.453" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="238" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="211" CreationDate="2016-01-14T03:02:04.493" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;The biggest problem I see with using a Kossel (or any FDM printer) is that to print the mold directly you'd need a plastic with a low enough melting point you can print it and a high enough melting point you can bake it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From &lt;a href=&quot;http://filaments.ca/pages/temperature-guide&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; list of filaments (which admittedly shows printing temperatures, not melting temperatures) Polycarbonate and Polycarbonate-ABS are printed at 250+ C, while a brief search found cake baking temperatures from 175 to 200 C.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to &lt;a href=&quot;http://plasticsinfo.org/Functional-Nav/FAQs/Polycarbon-Plastic&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt;, polycarbonate is already used for food-safe containers, though you'd still need to worry about printing in a food-safe manner and surface finishing as in the question you linked.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Those two facts suggest it might be possible to print a polycarbonate mold and bake in it, though IMO there's a much better way to achieve the same result: print a positive of the mold in whatever material you want, smooth the print for better finish quality, then use &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.makeyourownmolds.com/&quot;&gt;food grade silicone&lt;/a&gt; to make the mold from the finished print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17" LastActivityDate="2016-01-14T03:02:04.493" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="239" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="356" CreationDate="2016-01-14T05:15:09.270" Score="4" ViewCount="687" Body="&lt;p&gt;After multiple jams from bulging filaments on two spools I'm getting frustrated.  One, right before a job was done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there something I can do to prevent these bulges in filaments from ruining jobs?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What can I do to prevent this from happening in the future before it's a disaster?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;He's a picture of one I found using google.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6UvLW.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6UvLW.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23" LastEditorUserId="115" LastEditDate="2016-01-14T06:38:27.247" LastActivityDate="2016-01-20T16:48:49.097" Title="Bulging filaments - How can catch them before they go in the printer" Tags="|filament|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="240" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="233" CreationDate="2016-01-14T05:25:49.217" Score="19" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you feel you need to &lt;em&gt;clean&lt;/em&gt; the nozzle the best approach is a &lt;em&gt;cold pull&lt;/em&gt;.  You can perform this procedure with many printers, however, you should seek advice from your printer manufacturer before attempting this process if you have any doubts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With the previously filament still loaded and the tool head cold:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Begin to raise the temperature of the tool to the printing temperature of &lt;em&gt;the next filament you intend to load&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;As it begins to warm up perform any tasks you normally perform during filament unloading (open the idler, for example). &lt;strong&gt;You should not be fighting against the extruder drive gear or any other part of the tool during this process!&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;With a fair amount of pressure begin pulling on the filament&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The old filament should eventually release from inside of the tool leaving the end of the filament roughly in a nice molded shape of the inside of the tool.  Begin loading the next filament you intend to print and manually feed some filament through as the tool finishes heating&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anything left over from the previous filament including pigment or other residue should be stuck to the end of the filament.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can perform &lt;em&gt;cold pulls&lt;/em&gt; as many times as you wish by loading new filament, extruding a small amount, letting it completely cool and repeating the steps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="174" LastActivityDate="2016-01-14T05:25:49.217" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="241" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-14T06:44:51.050" Score="10" ViewCount="3429" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a strange issue with my heated bed. It has been working well for a long time, but recently it has developed an issue where the temperature reported by the thermistor will occasionally jump by around 10 degrees.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aMRF7.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aMRF7.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7CMAV.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7CMAV.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My setup is a 600W, 240V silicone heater mat, with integrated 100k thermistor, that is switched with a solid state relay. The mat is fixed to a 4mm thick aluminium plate. It seems unlikely that these fluctuations are due to bad PID tuning since the reported temperature changes much more quickly than is physically possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've checked the wiring, tried using a different thermistor port and making sure the connector was properly plugged in, but to no avail. The fluctuations are brief enough that they don't cause any problems when printing, but I'm worried about the issue getting worse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a RAMBo board 1.1b, and I've tried using both the integrated 5V SMPS supply and an external USB supply.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The issue is not limited to the start of printing, the temperature reported can be stable for a long time before the issue pops up. The issue also occurs during cooldown (further confirming that PID has nothing to do with it):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ilKXA.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ilKXA.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In fact, the issue seems slightly more common during heat up and cool down, but is not limited to these times.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would like to know what might be causing this issue, and if there's a way to solve it without replacing the thermistor (which would be a pain, since it's integrated into the heater mat).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastEditorUserId="98" LastEditDate="2016-03-21T22:54:41.103" LastActivityDate="2017-11-05T10:19:49.767" Title="Issue with weird heated bed temperature fluctuations" Tags="|heated-bed|electronics|hbp|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="242" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="245" CreationDate="2016-01-14T06:54:46.547" Score="6" ViewCount="1508" Body="&lt;p&gt;My Kossel Mini printer (delta) has RAMPS1.4/Arduino Mega electronics configured to use a standard 20x4 LCD display with Marlin during printing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Often, navigating the menus during print can be painfully slow, and I occasionally end up making the wrong selections due to lag.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Without starving the actual printing process of CPU resources, is there any way of speeding up the menu navigation?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="115" LastEditorUserId="115" LastEditDate="2016-01-14T12:01:17.530" LastActivityDate="2016-01-14T15:17:02.863" Title="Marlin menu navigation slow while printing" Tags="|slic3r|ramps-1.4|arduino-mega-2650|marlin|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="243" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="239" CreationDate="2016-01-14T07:27:32.037" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;How to catch &lt;em&gt;and&lt;/em&gt; fix these on the fly? That would be difficult..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But this is an issue you really should not have.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/q/84/47&quot;&gt;Could it be an issue with filament storage?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or is it coming from the manufacturer with these bulges? If so, I would try contacting ( you may have gotten a bad batch? ), or finding a new retailer if this happens often.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have gone through a lot of pounds of both ABS and PLA and never come across this. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="47" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T13:00:58.447" LastActivityDate="2016-01-14T07:34:47.350" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="244" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="239" CreationDate="2016-01-14T12:41:22.910" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Bottom line: &lt;em&gt;The easiest way to prevent this is to avoid cheap filament.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can get mid-grade filament for a few dollars more than the ultra cheap stuff. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In other words I tried out some 10$ stuff from ebay, and while it might print for a little while it notoriously clogged in any prints greater than 1hr. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;20-25$ is the going rate for mid-grade filament on amazon and check the reviews I've had good consistency there. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="186" LastActivityDate="2016-01-14T12:41:22.910" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="245" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="242" CreationDate="2016-01-14T15:17:02.863" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;A Delta printer requires constant complex calculations to produce straight lines while printing.  The firmware, therefore, spends most of its time figuring out the step and timing sequence, and only the little remaining time between interrupts and these calculations is given to the user interface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Marlin&lt;/a&gt; doesn't document any &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/wiki/Marlin-Configuration&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;configuration parameters&lt;/a&gt; that would improve the user interface responsiveness, and in any case such improvement must necessarily come at the cost of printing speed and/or accuracy.  The processor is being used to its maximum capacity.  The only thing you might be able to do is dig into the firmware and try to change it yourself, as this is not a clear option within Marlin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If working with the user interface while printing is important to you, your next step should probably be to change to a faster 32 bit processor. There are a few firmwares available for ARM and other architectures which may resolve your situation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16" LastActivityDate="2016-01-14T15:17:02.863" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="246" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="241" CreationDate="2016-01-14T15:28:42.937" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It really looks like either a bad thermistor or bad electrical joints. Are the connections to the thermistor itself crimped, or soldered? Are there connectors near the thermistor that can get heated up by the bed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Electrical connections that are mechanical in nature (such as crimped, or using a connector) can degrade quickly in heated situations, particularly when the heating is intermittent.  Consider replacing crimped connections with soldered joints where possible, and where not possible use gold plated connectors and crimps to avoid oxidation issues. Oxidation and poor mechanical connections will change resistance based on movement, giving you apparent increases or decreases in sensor readings even when the sensor output is unchanged.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Chances are good that the thermistor itself is fine, but that the connection nearest the thermistor, between the wires and the thermistor, is faulty. If it's crimped, you may be able to simply add flux, then solder it to increase the bonding between the wires and the thermistor and decrease future issues with oxidation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that soldering is really only useful for the thermistor on the bed.  The head thermistor must be crimped, as the head temperatures can exceed solder temperatures depending on the target temperature and the solder alloy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16" LastActivityDate="2016-01-14T15:28:42.937" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="247" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="203" CreationDate="2016-01-14T17:25:49.447" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Auto speed is calculated from maximum volumetric speed in mm&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt; per second. If you normally print at 80 mm/s, your extrusion width is 0.5 mm and you are printing 0.2mm high layers, your volumetric speed would be 80 * 0.5 * 0.2 = 8 mm&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt;/s, which is the volume of plastic extruded by your printer every second when printing at that speed (not accounting for any die swell).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="196" LastEditorUserId="115" LastEditDate="2016-01-14T23:41:13.280" LastActivityDate="2016-01-14T23:41:13.280" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="248" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4" CreationDate="2016-01-14T18:20:40.473" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think the closest you're going to get is with a composite material. Over the last 2 years or so, there have been more and more composite filaments emerging on the market for consumer 3D printers. I good example of composite filaments can be seen on &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.proto-pasta.com/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Proto-Pasta&lt;/a&gt;. Since the filament must mostly be comprised of the polymer &quot;binder&quot;, the material will obviously not exhibit all the properties of both.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Without getting into too much Material Science, consider the composite of both ABS and Iron (or some other ferrous-based metal). You cannot expect to print a solid circuit out of the filament because the iron may not be represented throughout all directions of the filament, therefore resulting in resistance or flat out non-conductivity. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, to answer your question: I'm not aware of a significantly larger glass state in a type of metal/alloy. Your best bet is a composite, but it depends on the requirements for your part if a composite will work. Then, you'll have another battle of finding the right type of composite and worst of all, a good supplier lol&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="98" LastActivityDate="2016-01-14T18:20:40.473" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="249" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="209" CreationDate="2016-01-14T18:26:16.927" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I believe casting typically uses a wax for the positive when using casting sand. So, I would suggest using &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.machinablewax.com/product.php?product=52&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;wax filament&lt;/a&gt; in your 3D printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would try to shy away from hard polymers like PLA/ABS/Nylon (all typical 3D printing filaments) if the goal is to &quot;melt it away&quot; because a certain amount of the plastic material will either bind itself with the metal or large chunks of plastic will cause inclusions in your part. Both of these side effects will potentially degrade the quality/strength of your part.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I haven't personally used wax filament, so I can't tell you what the correct setting are. However, you can get most of the necessary information from whichever supplier you go through. I might suggest running your machine slower when using a low-melting filament such as wax or PVA (water soluble).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="98" LastActivityDate="2016-01-14T18:26:16.927" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="250" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="276" CreationDate="2016-01-14T19:34:50.137" Score="18" ViewCount="6244" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am designing a part that has to clamp around a 11mm bushing, and due to other design constraints, it has to be printed with a semicircle-shaped overhang:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LcLSm.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LcLSm.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is proving very challenging to print. Two copies of this part have to clamp tightly around the bushing in all directions. Support material is rather hard to remove from the very top of the arc (where the overhang angle is the highest) and I often end up removing just too little of the support material (so the part doesn't fit around the bushing) or too much (and the bushing can wobble around).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any way I can modify the design of this part (bearing in mind that it absolutely has to be printed in this orientation) to make it more tolerant of my inaccuracy when removing supports, or is there perhaps some way to manually design supports that are easier to remove (Simplify3D and Cura both don't quite cut it)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastActivityDate="2016-03-09T23:55:32.513" Title="How to print an overhanging arc" Tags="|fdm|support-material|" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="251" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="250" CreationDate="2016-01-14T20:30:36.650" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;If your printer is printing support material that is too strongly attached, you can increase the space between the support and the part in some slicing softwares. On Cura it is located in the &quot;expert settings&quot; menu (you can open it by pressing Ctrl + E), under the &quot;Support&quot; text. Try fiddling with the &quot;Z distance&quot; setting until you find the right setting. You can also change the type of support and support infill amount and see if it have any positive or negative effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit : I think you should also redesign your part : it seems that it cannot lock the bushing on. The semicircle should be a bit smaller to have a bit of space between your two parts. This way the bushing will be secured firmly by the tightening force of the screws and precision should be less of an issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="240" LastEditorUserId="240" LastEditDate="2016-01-14T20:44:09.600" LastActivityDate="2016-01-14T20:44:09.600" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="252" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="250" CreationDate="2016-01-14T21:23:04.953" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think a lot of this depends on the slicing engine you're using as to what options you have. I use MakerWare (now MakerBot Desktop) which has many options for the support scaffolding as well as other useful settings for your situation. As someone else stated, adjusting the distance (even slightly) can make a world of difference in how easy the supports are removed. Also bear in mind that supports can be more difficult to remove with larger layer heights, so try printing in a lower layer height.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Often times, you shouldn't need to use support structures for a feature like this. I might suggest printing without supports at a reduced speed and lowered nozzle temperature. This will help ensure that the material hardens quicker, which becomes helpful higher along the arc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Related to the suggestion above, you can focus your slicing setting on better bridging. This should give better control on feeds/speeds while &quot;bridging&quot; a gap between overhanging features. Some slicing engines allow you to specify a different layer height for these areas on the print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, I would try printing with reduced print speed, nozzle temperature(s), and layer height with supports. My machine has a range of 0.1mm to 0.3, but I've had more success printing between 0.12mm and 0.15mm layer height with scaffolding in mind.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Last suggestion (when absolutely all else fails) purchase some sort of dissolvable filament (ie PVA - water soluble) and set your scaffolding-to-part distance really close and print. Obviously this only works if you have a multi-extruder head or a lot of time on your hands to swap the materials and adjust the nozzle temperature for each layer (please don't do that...)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="98" LastActivityDate="2016-01-14T21:23:04.953" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="253" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="254" CreationDate="2016-01-14T21:48:19.053" Score="20" ViewCount="3815" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm thinking of recycling some filament from a couple of recently failed prints. I can reuse them in the future for basic prototypes, so I'm not concerned with whatever weird mixture of colors come out (they are of a few different colors).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The thing is, I have both PLA and ABS, in small quantities. I originally intended to simply use each one separately, but it occurred to me that they could be mixed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I recycle PLA and ABS together into one strand of filament, will there be any negative side effects (e.g. reduced strength)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="61" LastActivityDate="2021-08-18T21:48:16.777" Title="Can I mix ABS and PLA when recycling filament?" Tags="|abs|pla|filament|recycling|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="254" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="253" CreationDate="2016-01-14T22:23:31.590" Score="18" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is not a good idea. Both filaments have different melting points, that of ABS being much higher than that of PLA. To melt the ABS you have to heat the plastic to the point where the PLA starts to degrade.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastActivityDate="2016-01-14T22:23:31.590" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="255" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="215" CreationDate="2016-01-14T22:24:36.573" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;My usual solution for cleaning the glass bed on my printer is a glass scraper (basically just a razor blade with a handle on it):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/03af0.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/03af0.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;glass scraper&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regardless of what kind of filament (abs/pla/nylon) or surface treatment (glue/painters tape/abs slurry) I've used the glass scraper always takes it right off, and with the style I posted a picture of the blade is flexible and thin enough it's also useful for peeling up the edge of prints that are stuck to the bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17" LastActivityDate="2016-01-14T22:24:36.573" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="256" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="260" CreationDate="2016-01-14T22:29:05.317" Score="7" ViewCount="401" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am operating a laser sintering machine, using polyamide 2200 powder (with a grain size of approximately 50 micrometers). During a print, a lot of powder goes unsintered and can theoretically be reused. However, using purely recycled powder degrades print quality to an unacceptable level.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mixing a little used powder into a larger amount of fresh powder seems to work well though. What is the greatest ratio of used to fresh powder that still gives good results, and is there anything I can do (pre- postprocessing) to allow more powder to be reused?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastActivityDate="2017-10-25T15:00:45.797" Title="Optimal ratio of fresh to used nylon powder" Tags="|quality|recycling|sls|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="257" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="250" CreationDate="2016-01-14T23:08:56.183" Score="3" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;if I printed it in a different orientation it would delaminate too easily&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you flip it around, the orientation of the layers would be the same, except that you would print from top to bottom instead of bottom to top.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With the arch opening to the top, there would be &lt;strong&gt;no overhang&lt;/strong&gt;. Without overhang, you don't need support structures (red). The holes for screw heads have flat roofs (green) that the printer should be able to gap by moving over them quickly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's an image that shows the original orientation at the top and my proposed flipped orientation at the bottom. The blue lien is the print bed.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xqHJl.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xqHJl.png&quot; alt=&quot;both orientations&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10" LastActivityDate="2016-01-14T23:08:56.183" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="258" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="261" CreationDate="2016-01-15T00:47:30.323" Score="7" ViewCount="2211" Body="&lt;p&gt;Usually it will either will rip the tape, or break the print somehow. Currently using ABS on a taped glass bed with a layer of hairspray for adhesion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="45" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-06-24T07:49:03.720" LastActivityDate="2019-06-24T08:45:04.817" Title="How to minimize damage when removing an ABS print from a heated glass print bed?" Tags="|heated-bed|abs|desktop-printer|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="259" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="263" CreationDate="2016-01-15T01:07:58.893" Score="6" ViewCount="118" Body="&lt;p&gt;Let's say I print a part out of ABS and wait for it to cool. I could theoretically do this with several copies of the same printer, modified to use print beds of different compositions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will the material a bed is made out of affect how long it takes a part to cool?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="61" LastEditorUserId="98" LastEditDate="2016-03-21T22:54:08.633" LastActivityDate="2016-03-21T22:54:08.633" Title="Does the material a bed is made out of affect the cooling time of a part?" Tags="|heated-bed|hbp|cooling|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="260" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="256" CreationDate="2016-01-15T01:41:50.377" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You'll find generally that mixing 40% new polyamide with 60% recycled polyamide will result in a reasonable finish and part. You will obviously want to use all new for parts requiring the best possible finish and mechanical properties, but this mixture will be very difficult to tell apart from a fully new mixture part:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.paramountind.com/pdfs/eos_pa2200_mds.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.paramountind.com/pdfs/eos_pa2200_mds.pdf&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is more detailed research showing how used powder changes and how that affects print quality here:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.emeraldinsight.com/doi/abs/10.1108/13552540910960299&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.emeraldinsight.com/doi/abs/10.1108/13552540910960299&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Searching for the research paper title may find a free source, but the linked resource does require a subscription or payment to that service.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16" LastActivityDate="2016-01-15T01:41:50.377" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="261" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="258" CreationDate="2016-01-15T04:25:40.080" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I moved to a plain glass heated bed with a brush applied acetone and ABS mixture. Using an old emptied nail polish bottle with brush, I added some acetone and then threw in ABS pieces until it reached a brush-able consistency. I then brush it on the glass build plate where I believe the print will occur, and it works very well. On removal of the part the coating comes with it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I just found previously that ABS would adhere to my kapton taped heated bed too strongly to use, and so while this involves a little work before each print, it's overall better than kapton for me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did experiment with sheet metal beds coated with kapton, but they curl during printing due to the ABS thermal stress, allowing my parts to be concave on the bottom side. Easy to remove from the plate, though, since it flexed. There may be a good middle ground material but I didn't experiment further.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-06-24T07:50:27.870" LastActivityDate="2019-06-24T07:50:27.870" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="262" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="259" CreationDate="2016-01-15T05:26:10.310" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Assuming you are meaning the build plate and not confusing it with a printed raft, yes, different materials for the build plate will have different cooling rates. I don't know the values of hand, but a Google search can get you to a formula to calculate how long a certain size build plate of a given material type should roughly take to cool. (I'm using the mobile app right now, so I'll have to get back to this answer later to give links and more details)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="98" LastActivityDate="2016-01-15T05:26:10.310" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="263" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="259" CreationDate="2016-01-15T06:39:41.173" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What bed material cools faster?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found an &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/thermal-conductivity-d_429.html&quot;&gt;extensive list&lt;/a&gt; which relates various materials to their &lt;em&gt;thermal conductivity&lt;/em&gt;, k [W/mK]; the lower thermal conductivity, the better the material insulates, and the slower the print bed will resist changes in temperature - both heating up, and cooling down. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are the thermal conductivity for some common materials for 3d printer beds:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Aluminum    205&#xA;Glass       1.05&#xA;Acrylic     0.2&#xA;Air         0.024 (for reference)&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is also the matter of thermal capacity, but I will not go into that right now (need to do some research myself first!).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Will bed material affect cooling time?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bed material, I believe, is not necessarily related to print cooldown time: it depends on the situation, such as whether we are discussing cooldown during or after printing, and if the bed is heated or not. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you are &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; using a heated bed, I believe the bed material doesn't matter at all.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;With a heated bed &lt;em&gt;while printing&lt;/em&gt;, only the first dozen layers or so are probably affected by the rising heat sufficiently that it affects the printing process.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;With a heated bed &lt;em&gt;after printing&lt;/em&gt;, the thermal characteristics of the bed will determine how quickly the print cools (and thus can be removed).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also remember that other physical properties, such as flatness (both cold and during heating) of the bed material is vital for successful prints, and that not all materials can tolerate heating equally well! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="115" LastActivityDate="2016-01-15T06:39:41.173" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="264" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="265" CreationDate="2016-01-15T07:04:09.510" Score="46" ViewCount="57376" Body="&lt;p&gt;Why do we have two standard filament sizes, 1.75&amp;nbsp;mm and 3&amp;nbsp;mm? Does it really make a difference when printing? Or is the 1.75&amp;nbsp;mm just for smaller printers?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In what situations should I be using 1.75&amp;nbsp;mm?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When should I be using 3&amp;nbsp;mm?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="47" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-08-02T19:35:22.213" LastActivityDate="2020-08-09T22:03:50.080" Title="When to use 1.75 mm vs 3 mm filament?" Tags="|fdm|filament|extruder|" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="265" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="264" CreationDate="2016-01-15T08:21:33.323" Score="33" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's no appreciable difference. Just use the filament that fits your particular printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't yet have a printer, then I'd get one that uses 1.75&amp;nbsp;mm filament:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;1.75&amp;nbsp;mm is increasingly becoming the &quot;standard&quot;, thus being easier to get. Some filaments are not available as 3&amp;nbsp;mm.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;1.75&amp;nbsp;mm filament allows for finer control, because feeding in 1&amp;nbsp;mm of filament corresponds to less plastic extruded.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;1.75&amp;nbsp;mm filament requires less force to extrude. Compressing 1.75&amp;nbsp;mm down to 0.3&amp;nbsp;mm takes less force than doing the same to 3&amp;nbsp;mm filament.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, the advantages are fairly minor. I don't see any reason to replace a functioning 3&amp;nbsp;mm extruder with a 1.75&amp;nbsp;mm one (yet).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-12-03T17:12:20.497" LastActivityDate="2019-12-03T17:12:20.497" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="266" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="264" CreationDate="2016-01-15T08:38:08.093" Score="21" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a few factors to consider those two:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;3 mm&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;More rigid - easier to print with flexible plastics. I couldn't make my 1.75 mm printer print with NinjaFlex using standard Bowden extruder.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Can extrude faster&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Quality is less affected by changes in diameter - it is a concern mostly when using cheap plastics&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;1.75 mm&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;More popular, easier to buy&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Needs smaller extruder than 3 mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Easier to use with Bowden tube&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;More precise when printing&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="118" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-08-09T22:03:50.080" LastActivityDate="2020-08-09T22:03:50.080" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="267" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="250" CreationDate="2016-01-15T11:29:53.733" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I believe the post by @tbm0115, covers many of the general options. However, I would also consider &lt;em&gt;installing additional fans&lt;/em&gt; to improve cooling of the model during printing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As pointed out by &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.desiquintans.com/coolingtests&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this excellent article&lt;/a&gt;, installing a fan can significantly reduce issues the from printing overhangs. Regarding the type of fan to get, they stated that: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;It seems that the fan shroud you choose is less important than the fan type. The blower fan was consistently weighted above the stock 40 mm fan regardless of shroud. Using a blower also gives you the best possible airflow through any shroud you decide to use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition - in my experience - adding having two or more fans blowing on the model from different directions will further improve overhang performance. This is because all parts of the print are less likely to experience lack of cooling due to &lt;em&gt;wind shadow&lt;/em&gt; - or &lt;em&gt;drag&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="115" LastEditorUserId="115" LastEditDate="2016-01-15T18:15:28.670" LastActivityDate="2016-01-15T18:15:28.670" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="268" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="264" CreationDate="2016-01-15T12:22:46.717" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think (as do a lot of others) that the differences are rather minor. So just my 2 things I know from experience. We've been using 3 mm for some years and now we are moving towards 1.75.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1.75 mm filament is very easy to entangle, especially, if it is not on spool. You can even easily create knots on the filament and it is very hard to untangle. As long as you keep it on spool and always buy on spool, you should be fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3 mm filament on the other hand, creates very high tension when the spool is about to end. Sometimes the last couple of meters are unusable because of this and you have to throw the rest of the spool away.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="53" LastActivityDate="2016-01-15T12:22:46.717" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="269" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="273" CreationDate="2016-01-15T13:05:05.660" Score="19" ViewCount="5025" Body="&lt;p&gt;As an extension from &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/264/when-to-use-1-75mm-vs-3mm-filament&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; question, is there any reason that you would not be able to use 1.75&amp;nbsp;mm filament in a printer that takes 3mm filament?  I know you would have to change the filament size in the slicing of prints but would there be any other problems?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, would using 1.75&amp;nbsp;mm filament be possible if the nozzle diameter was greater than 1.75&amp;nbsp;mm but less than 3&amp;nbsp;mm?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="43" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-05-25T05:11:56.640" LastActivityDate="2019-05-25T05:11:56.640" Title="Can 1.75 mm filament be used in a printer that takes 3 mm filament?" Tags="|filament|extruder|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="270" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="269" CreationDate="2016-01-15T14:27:50.450" Score="5" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;It may work for a short time but you're going to fill the melt chamber quickly and possibly overflow to a point where the filament isn't constrained causing a messy jam.  All the molten plastic will likely flow backwards to a point where the diameter isn't 3mm any longer (probably next to your drive gear) but depending on the length it may just flow up, cool down and jam the extruder.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;No, the filament would just pass through unheated and not do anything.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="233" LastEditorUserId="233" LastEditDate="2016-01-15T16:42:37.727" LastActivityDate="2016-01-15T16:42:37.727" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="271" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="272" CreationDate="2016-01-15T16:33:07.330" Score="12" ViewCount="1249" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been printing for a week now on my new printer and have been getting great results, including great adhesion. However, most of my prints have had a fairly small footprint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, I'm stepping up the types of items I'm printing, and I've started to run into a problem. Long, thin parts are starting to lift off the bed, especially at the edges of the bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've read &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/61/why-do-the-corners-of-my-abs-object-lift-off-the-bed&quot;&gt;the question dealing with this issue with ABS&lt;/a&gt; and realize some (most) could apply to me. However, I'm printing entirely in PLA on a non-heated bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is: What is the best way to go about troubleshooting this problem? In which order should I attempt fixes to narrow down the problem most quickly?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Printer: Monoprice Maker Architect 3D (Very similar to Makerbot)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Material: PLA&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Heated Bed: No&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bed Material: Something similar to BuildTak on top of an acrylic bed. (The sheet of material came unlabeled with the printer and I haven't been able to track down exactly what it is.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="212" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T13:00:58.447" LastActivityDate="2019-06-24T11:01:39.010" Title="Troubleshooting poor adhesion at the edge of the bed" Tags="|pla|adhesion|warping|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="272" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="271" CreationDate="2016-01-15T16:58:39.607" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are several things you could try without spending much but even PLA will warp on an unheated bed.  I had a Legacy Kossel that I switched to an acrylic bed and had many issues with warping and prints pulling off the bed.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some cheap things to try would be...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Adding a brim to the print.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Blue painters tape on the acrylic, remove the other material if doing this.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Place cheap piece of glass/mirror on bed and use hairspray/gluestick.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use hairspray/gluestick directly on acrylic.  You must be careful here because first layer height is very critical to prevent damage to the acrylic from the plastic welding.  A layer of hairspray or glue should prevent it but dial in your height before printing.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you aren't currently using a fan, you could try sealing the sides to prevent drafts.  I doubt this would change much since you are using PLA but it's an option.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If these are your designs, there are steps you can take to reduce warping as seen &lt;a href=&quot;http://hackaday.com/2011/11/15/a-technique-to-avoid-warping-on-large-3d-prints/&quot;&gt;here.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also many other suggestions &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.makerbot.com/blog/2011/06/23/12-ways-to-fight-warping-and-curling&quot;&gt;here.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="233" LastActivityDate="2016-01-15T16:58:39.607" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="273" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="269" CreationDate="2016-01-15T17:18:02.000" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;Typically an extruder and hot end are designed for one or the other, and cannot support the other without mechanical changes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The extruder may not be able to grip a smaller diameter filament with enough force to assure even feeding and retraction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The hot end, however, is much more complex. The filament has to be pushed with force into the melting zone, which means the filament has to slide along an area inside the hot end where the filament is plastic but still put pressure on the filament ahead of it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you put filament into a hot end, the filament softens before the melt zone, but since the walls of the hot end are just barely larger than the filament it has no choice but to continue pressing down on the liquid filament below.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With a narrower diameter filament, though, the filament can heat, soften, then travel &lt;em&gt;backwards&lt;/em&gt; along the sides of the hot end and cool in place, jamming the hot end, or at least preventing an even continuous flow of plastic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some hot ends will accept a small Teflon tube that takes this space up and allows you to do this with fewer issues, and if you like to tinker you can experiment with this, but be prepared to learn a lot and fail a lot as you find out the hard lessons of hot end design.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Generally you should upgrade your entire extruder and hot end setup to the size you want to use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16" LastActivityDate="2016-01-15T17:18:02.000" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="274" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="241" CreationDate="2016-01-15T17:49:38.140" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds like EM interference to me, though Adam's points about connections are also a good bet. I would try re-routing the thermistor wires far away from other wires. If that helps, then either leave them re-routed, or shield them. In any case, please let us know what you find.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastActivityDate="2016-01-15T17:49:38.140" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="275" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="250" CreationDate="2016-01-15T18:07:02.700" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here are all the ways I can think of:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Turn the temperature down just a little, which may reduce sagging&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Crank up cooling, like bigger fan(s) aimed at the print, so it solidifies faster&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Change orientation when possible (not in this case)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Use soluble support material, and wash it away afterwards (requires 2-head printer)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Pause the print as you go up, and insert support material manually (ick)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Omit support material at the very top&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Machine out the support material afterwards with a more precise tool, like a drill or sander the same diameter as the bearing. I'm eagerly waiting for a BoxZY printer that can swap in a milling head in place of the extruder.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Remove support material as now, but if you remove too much, fill the gap after installing the bearing to prevent wobbling -- epoxy, hot-melt glue, melted PLA, etc. might work, depending on how the part will end up being used.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Add a set-screw to secure the bearing&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, these all have tradeoffs; but I hope at least one of them might help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Steve&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastActivityDate="2016-01-15T18:07:02.700" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="276" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="250" CreationDate="2016-01-15T18:27:38.080" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could modify it as shown in my picture.  I added lines tangent to the 11mm circle and in this example I set them to a 40 degree overhang which should be fine, the top line is also tangent to the circle and in my experience it's easier to bridge a small section rather than do a bunch of small overhangs like an arc would do.  You still end up with quite a bit of contact but also easy to print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did something similar to this on &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/limited660/E1x/blob/master/STL%20Files/X_Axis_Idler_Block_-_1x.stl&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;my printer&lt;/a&gt; where the smooth rods enter horizontal holes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ByUUM.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ByUUM.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Angled Overhang&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="233" LastActivityDate="2016-01-15T18:27:38.080" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="277" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="81" CreationDate="2016-01-15T18:28:36.557" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Repeated exposure to acetone &lt;em&gt;can&lt;/em&gt; lead to the skin becoming sensitised, which means that in the future it will become overly irritated at the slightest contact.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On a more mundane note, it is an excellent degreaser and dries your skin something rotten. And then your fingertips can split and take days or weeks to close up,  hurting in the meantime.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="247" LastEditorUserId="13100" LastEditDate="2019-04-12T14:58:42.420" LastActivityDate="2019-04-12T14:58:42.420" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="278" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="81" CreationDate="2016-01-15T22:21:21.920" Score="3" Body="&lt;h1&gt;Safety Advice for Acetone Handling/Usage&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Please remember that you handle acetone at your own risk! By using this advice you agree to hold me harmless and not sue me as a result of using these instructions/advice. Remember that I am not a professional chemist or a lawyer (this isn't professional or legal advice)!&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I encourage you to research safety precautions and risks on your own to build a personal body of knowledge. The most effective safety precaution available to you is knowledge; the brain is the most important piece of safety equipment! This listing of advice for acetone handling is generated from the highlights of a Material Safety Data Sheet (MSDS) for acetone. After reading this advice you should read an MSDS for acetone directly. It would actually be an excellent idea to find and read the MSDS for all the chemicals you use during 3D printing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Safety Equipment&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Wear safety clothing! Acetone requires that you wear protective gloves, protective eyewear, and a respirator (to protect your airway). It is also highly recommended to wear protective (ideally also chemically resistant) clothing (like a smock or an apron). These safety clothes are recommended because acetone is a toxic substance which can absorb through the skin and walls of the lungs directly. Make sure to verify the gloves are made of a substance which blocks acetone absorption, also, verify that your respirator is rated to protect against acetone (many respirators are not capable of blocking acetone due to it's volatility).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Possess, prepare and understand how to use an eyewash station, a fire blanket, a fire extinguisher (rated for chemical fires), a chemical shower/dousing system and other standard laboratory safety equipment. Posting warning signs along the entrances and exits to the work area about working with a volatile, flammable and explosive gas is also recommended.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Keep an inert absorption media readily available to cleanup spills should you accidentally fail to avoid a spill. Diatomaceous earth, silica/sand and activated charcoal are all potential absorption media. Should you have a large spill or not possess absorption media (which should not happen - always verify safety equipment is present and working before handling chemicals!) then you may also dilute the spill with water and mop up the dilute solution of acetone. No matter which method you use to cleanup a spill remember to dispose of the contaminated cleanup materials according to the requirements/laws of your local area. &lt;strong&gt;Do not&lt;/strong&gt; lazily dispose of the acetone down the drain without doing research on the correct disposal methods!&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Control Your Environment&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Ensure proper ventilation of your workspace (ventilation is required in addition to your respirator due to explosion/fire risk). If the atmospheric concentration of acetone becomes too high the risk for fires and explosions quickly becomes unacceptable (the risk is never going to be zero working with acetone unfortunately, but minimizing it is very important). Working outside is the perfect way to insure the ventilation is adequate, although that presents it's own problems and considerations. Alternatives include using a fume hood, or even something as simple as a fan blowing air through an open window. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Eliminate any and all sources of flame or spark for a considerable area around all sources of acetone (10-15 meters minimum). Take special precautions to prevent being unknowingly contaminated with acetone (which could then be accidentally transported from the work area to a flame source using you as a carrier). Personal contamination can lead to injury if you attempt to smoke during a break or at anytime before verifying you are not contaminated. It is important to provide an ignition-free environment that extends quite far away from the immediate vicinity of the acetone because acetone can ignite a vapor trail of acetone and allow the flame to travel distances via flashing over the vapor trail. Physical isolation is the ideal solution to this dangerous problem. A policy of always closing the door to the acetone work area is an example of physical separation which would hopefully prevent this vapor trail flash-over.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Avoid acetone spills. Acetone is an excellent solvent which could easily eat away the paint on your wall or destroy the finish of your table. Spills also necessitate following special precautions for cleanup and disposal, which have already been provided earlier within this list. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Acetone Chemistry&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Do not under any condition mix your acetone with chemicals without an extensive analysis and understanding of the products and the risks associated with the reaction. The following list of chemicals will create an explosive compound/mixture when reacted with acetone, so do not allow them to come into contact with acetone: hydrogen peroxide, acetic acid, nitric acid, nitric acid + sulfuric acid, chromic anydride, chromyl&#xA;chloride, nitrosyl chloride, hexachloromelamine, nitrosyl perchlorate, nitryl perchlorate, permonosulfuric acid, thiodiglycol +&#xA;hydrogen peroxide, potassium ter-butoxide, sulfur dichloride, 1-methyl-1,3-butadiene, bromoform, carbon, air, chloroform,&#xA;thitriazylperchlorate.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Should you accidentally ignite some acetone, you must take additional precautions while evacuating or while attempting to extinguish the fire. Acetone is a hydrocarbon and the reaction of burning it produces products which include carbon monoxide (CO) and carbon dioxide (CO2). Essentially, humans are incapable of detecting these gases with their senses (detectors exist to measure concentration). However, these symptoms of carbon monoxide and carbon dioxide can help alert you to the fact they are present: shortness of breath, blackness along the edges of your vision, confusion, headache, unconsciousness, coma, and finally, death. Carbon monoxide is far more dangerous than carbon dioxide because often the first symptom is unconsciousness, which prevents you from evacuating, leading to death. The dangerous of gas inhalation are substantial enough that as soon as a fire becomes medium-sized you should seriously consider evacuating the area rather than staying to extinguish the fire. It is better to lose property to the fire than to die (if you die I would guess that your property is destroyed anyway!).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Risk Analysis&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Acetone is a confirmed developmental toxin for females and a suspected developmental toxin for males as well. The risk of breast milk contamination is unknown, but it is a suspected toxic contaminant. Mutagenic and tetragenic effects are not known. The result of this toxicity is that pregnant or breastfeeding women should not handle or be around acetone (due to vapors) even for short periods of time.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The risk of cancer and the carcinogenic properties for acetone are not well-defined, with some declining to classify acetone as a carcinogen and others classifying it as being carcinogenic. California, for instance, has required that acetone bear a proposition 65 warning about cancer risk.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Acetone is definitely a toxic substance, but it is not highly toxic and accidental ingestion or absorption is essentially incapable of causing severe symptoms. Small exposures to acetone (like the exposure levels likely encountered during 3D printing) are more-or-less not very harmful. However, if you do get a problematic exposure to acetone, contact a poison control center.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The LD50 (&quot;lethal dose 50%&quot;, dose where half of subjects die) in rats is 5800 mg/kg, making the predictable (humans are often similar to rats in regards to toxicity) LD50 for an adult human similarly high. With such a high lethal dose, the predicted toxicity of acetone likely causes chronic sub-lethal damage instead of causing an acute and lethal response. If we assume an average adult human (62 kg) shares the LD50 of a rat- that human would need to consume 392 cc of acetone to reach the LD50. 392 cc is nearly equivalent to 4/10 L- meaning that there is essentially no chance the small consumption of acetone caused by working with it could poison an adult human (if our assumptions are correct).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Potential effects of inhalation, ingestion or skin absorption of acetone:&lt;/em&gt; dry skin, nausea, vomiting, skin irritation, eye irritation, burning sensation, redness, tearing, inflammation, corneal injury, depression, fatigue, excitement, stupor, insomnia, hypersomnia, ataxia, tremors, dizziness, drowsiness, confusion, headache, muscle weakness, loss of motor coordination, speech abnormalities, narcotic effects, coma, kidney damage, liver damage, brain damage, and death.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="251" LastEditorUserId="251" LastEditDate="2016-01-16T22:26:55.593" LastActivityDate="2016-01-16T22:26:55.593" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="279" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="280" CreationDate="2016-01-16T00:11:52.217" Score="7" ViewCount="130" Body="&lt;p&gt;With &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/fdm&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;fdm&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;fdm&lt;/a&gt; printers, the 3D object that should be printed can be positioned anywhere in the build volume. But it's only practical to place it on the bottom, because otherwise support material would be necessary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;stereolithography has the same problem. Even though the photopolymer can be cured at any position in the build volume, the result would drift away if it was not held in place by support material.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The powderbed based printers (either powder+binder or any of the laser/electron beam sintering/melting variants) do not have this problem, because they continuously fill the entire build volume with powder. The support material that other printing technologies require is part of the powder based printing anyway. It would be possible to pack the build volume with many prints and print them in one go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given that the machines are relatively expensive, it would be economical to increase the throughput. A company that does use such printers heavily could wait a certain amount of time until a few print queued up that fit together in the build volume and only then start the process. Do people do this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10" LastActivityDate="2016-01-16T02:47:20.243" Title="Is packing multiple prints into the build volume a feasible workflow for powderbed printers?" Tags="|sls|slm|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="280" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="279" CreationDate="2016-01-16T00:19:55.943" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, this is very popular. Look into the site Shapeways and you will see that this is exactly what they do. I've also personally seen a local 3D print shop do this with their machine. It's called batching. I similar technique can be used in traditional machine shops (mills/lathes).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="98" LastActivityDate="2016-01-16T00:19:55.943" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="281" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="279" CreationDate="2016-01-16T02:47:20.243" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The print speed for powderbed printing depends primarily on the height of the print; the lateral extent doesn't really matter.  Since powderbed printing provides its own easily-removed support structure, a packing that maximizes the number of items and minimizes the height will maximize throughput.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="48" LastActivityDate="2016-01-16T02:47:20.243" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="282" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="216" CreationDate="2016-01-16T04:37:40.820" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use the glue stick method. I like to take my build plate out and put it in the freezer. The different coefficients of thermal expansion between the glass and plastic usually means that the part just pops off in the freezer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="256" LastActivityDate="2016-01-16T04:37:40.820" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="283" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6" CreationDate="2016-01-16T04:56:42.537" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Another approach is Mosaic Manufacturing's &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mosaicmanufacturing.com&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Palette&lt;/a&gt; – it appears to a single extruder 3D printer as a filament reel, but it is creating a custom filament on-the-fly by &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;pulling information from a multi-extruder .gcode file to determine the length, and the order, each color segment needs to be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The device was a successful &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/mosaic3d/the-palette-3d-printing-evolved/description&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Kickstarter campaign&lt;/a&gt; and as far as I can tell it isn't shipping yet (as of January 2016), but they are taking orders and promising an April 2016 ship date.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="254" LastActivityDate="2016-01-16T04:56:42.537" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="284" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-16T05:15:54.453" Score="6" ViewCount="586" Body="&lt;p&gt;There must be a trick to doing a good job of applying Kapton tape on a printer bed plate…&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We built a Bukobot and even with a great deal of care ended up with bubbles under the tape and occasional overlaps. I'd appreciate any pointers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="254" LastEditorUserId="98" LastEditDate="2016-03-21T22:53:52.170" LastActivityDate="2016-03-21T22:53:52.170" Title="Applying Kapton Tape To Bed Plate" Tags="|heated-bed|hbp|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="285" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="284" CreationDate="2016-01-16T05:26:15.010" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Try using a solution made for applying window tint, maybe even soapy water.  Squeegee it out, heat the bed for a bit and you should be good to go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://youtu.be/BEFFHMJXEFg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;This video demonstrates the process.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="233" LastEditorUserId="233" LastEditDate="2016-01-16T14:35:16.017" LastActivityDate="2016-01-16T14:35:16.017" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="286" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-01-16T05:38:40.723" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Fused Deposition Modeling (or FDM) is an additive manufacturing technology that involves plotting the many 2D layers that a slicing engine takes of a 3D model.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="98" LastEditorUserId="98" LastEditDate="2016-02-02T19:43:41.060" LastActivityDate="2016-02-02T19:43:41.060" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="287" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-01-16T05:38:40.723" Score="0" Body="Questions about Fused Deposition Modeling (FDM) as an additive manufacturing technology." OwnerUserId="98" LastEditorUserId="98" LastEditDate="2016-02-02T19:41:54.190" LastActivityDate="2016-02-02T19:41:54.190" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="288" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-01-16T05:45:23.097" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;For questions regarding troubleshooting, design, maintenance, etc. for the 3D printing method of Selective Laser Sintering (SLS).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Selective_laser_sintering&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Wikipedia - Selective laser sintering&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Selective laser sintering (SLS) is an additive manufacturing (AM)&#xA;technique that uses a laser as the power source to sinter powdered&#xA;material (typically nylon/polyamide), aiming the laser&#xA;automatically at points in space defined by a 3D model, binding the&#xA;material together to create a solid structure. It is similar to direct&#xA;metal laser sintering (DMLS); the two are instantiations of the same&#xA;concept but differ in technical details. Selective laser melting (SLM)&#xA;uses a comparable concept, but in SLM the material is fully melted&#xA;rather than sintered, allowing different properties (crystal&#xA;structure, porosity, and so on). SLS (as well as the other mentioned&#xA;AM techniques) is a relatively new technology that so far has mainly&#xA;been used for rapid prototyping and for low-volume production of&#xA;component parts. Production roles are expanding as the&#xA;commercialization of AM technology improves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="98" LastEditorUserId="4808" LastEditDate="2020-08-03T01:25:42.233" LastActivityDate="2020-08-03T01:25:42.233" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="289" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-01-16T05:45:23.097" Score="0" Body="For questions about the Selective Laser Sintering (SLS) method of 3D printing. " OwnerUserId="98" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-06-28T15:29:28.777" LastActivityDate="2018-06-28T15:29:28.777" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="290" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-01-16T05:50:02.923" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Extruder is the part of the FDM/FFF printer, located on the head, that is responsible for the extrusion of a filament material.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="47" LastEditorUserId="98" LastEditDate="2016-02-08T14:18:23.960" LastActivityDate="2016-02-08T14:18:23.960" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="291" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-01-16T05:50:02.923" Score="0" Body="Questions about extrusion hardware for 3D printers." OwnerUserId="98" LastEditorUserId="98" LastEditDate="2016-02-08T14:18:07.337" LastActivityDate="2016-02-08T14:18:07.337" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="292" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="284" CreationDate="2016-01-16T06:15:43.123" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I like to heat my build plate up a bit before I begin. Just warm to touch. I feel that this will help prevent bubbling so soon. I would think that since the build plate is expanded with the heat, that when the tape is applied it will shrink with the build plate. I was also told that the heat would help the adhesive stick better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other thing I do when applying kapton tape is apply one end of the tape to a ruler, place the ruler on the far side of the build plate, and slowly begin working the tape evenly across the plate. I find it much easier to apply tape this way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="98" LastActivityDate="2016-01-16T06:15:43.123" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="293" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-16T10:50:04.393" Score="12" ViewCount="1476" Body="&lt;p&gt;E3D hotends use a thermistor whose legs are insulated with glass fiber sleeving and clamped down with a screw and washer:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IAJDy.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IAJDy.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This solution enables the printing of high temperature materials, but it's a bit fragile and after reassembling the hotend a couple of times, the screw will have thoroughly mangled the thermistor's legs and sleeving.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some knockoff E3D hotends use a (horrible) solution where the thermistor is just loose in its respective hole, and kapton taped to the heater cartridge wires which holds it in place:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xMsxq.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xMsxq.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This solution seems kind of ad-hoc, and I'm worried about the thermistor coming loose. One advantage is that it can be reassembled arbitrarily often, since just pulling out the heater cartridge also pulls out the thermistor without damaging it. Note that the picture shows PTFE sleeving which restricts the temperature, but you could easily use fibreglass in this situation as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another solution is the stud thermistor:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ER2gr.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ER2gr.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It screws into the hole that is normally used for the clamping screw. Unfortunately you're limited to around 250C because of the epoxy used in the stud. I've also found that the epoxy fails after a while (regardless of temperature) and the thermistor isn't locked in place any more (it still works, by virtue of being constrained by the heater cartridge wires as in the previous solution but that's not ideal).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any solutions, compatible with genuine E3D hotends, that:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;are not limited in temperature by epoxy or PTFE,&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;can withstand being disassembled and reassembled better than the standard fiberglass sleeving,&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;is a bit less hokey than a kapton taping the thermistor's wires to the heater cartridge and hoping that holds it in place?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastActivityDate="2018-11-19T17:44:40.547" Title="E3D Thermistor Alternative" Tags="|hotend|thermistor|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="294" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="295" CreationDate="2016-01-16T13:28:24.050" Score="7" ViewCount="335" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am building a Prusa i3 Rework, and I haven't been able to find out how to attach my J-Head extruder (see below), at the moment it's just kind of held there by pressure, but it seems there are two holes on ether side of it; not sure if they're meant to hold it in place, but it seems that way.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/X6Ggi.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/X6Ggi.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Image of two holes in the side of the x-carriage with a J-Head Extruder just below it, with ring exposed&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any suggestions as to what I should use to hold it in place?  This is definitely a part that gets moved around alot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;update&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qvpOE.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qvpOE.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Image of two holes in the side of the x-carriage with a J-Head Extruder just below it (pushed up a little bit)&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastEditorUserId="37" LastEditDate="2016-01-16T14:20:47.957" LastActivityDate="2016-01-16T14:20:47.957" Title="How is a J-Head Extruder Head attached to the Prusa i3 rework?" Tags="|reprap|prusa-i3|prusa-i3-rework|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="295" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="294" CreationDate="2016-01-16T13:55:00.717" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It looks like the hotend may not be all the way in, are you sure it's not stuck?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it's stuck and you can get it in further, those holes should go directly through the smaller ring on top of the J-Head.  You just need to run a machine screw into each hole to secure the hotend. The screw will need to at least be flush with the other side to work correctly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="233" LastActivityDate="2016-01-16T13:55:00.717" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="296" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="301" CreationDate="2016-01-16T14:40:27.247" Score="7" ViewCount="2570" Body="&lt;p&gt;From what I understand, when you hook up the &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B007KG0ZYI&quot;&gt;Switching Power Supply 12v Dc 30a 360w&lt;/a&gt; to the wall outlet, you have to be &lt;strong&gt;very careful&lt;/strong&gt;; careful not to get the wires mixed up; careful not to have anyone or anything touch the leads (in fact the first proper project I intend to print out will be &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:31659&quot;&gt;a casing to fit around the switching power supply&lt;/a&gt;), or just order one from someone.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now there are three wires that go into the US wall of particular concern, and these wires come out of a standard PC cable with the female end cut off, and they hook the power supply.  Like the external casing, these three wires are also insulated, and when you take the insulation off the bare wires and connect it to the power supply, you have to use Electrical connectors of some sort to connect them to the power supply's screw leads.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I bought some electrical connectors just for this purpose, but I'm not entirely certain they will be good for this purpose, so I thought I'd check here first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RTAFs.jpg&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RTAFs.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Picture of GE Electrical Connectors 50956, 40 piece set&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are specifications on the back:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;╬──────────────────╬──────────────────────╬─────────────╬───────────╬&#xA;╬                  ╬        AWG           ╬  Wire Size  ╬ Stud Size ╬&#xA;╬──────────────────╬──────────────────────╬─────────────╬───────────╬&#xA;╬ Spade Terminals                                                   ╬&#xA;╬──────────────────╬──────────────────────╬─────────────╬───────────╬&#xA;╬  YF1.25-35 (red) ╬        22-16         ╬   0.5-1.5   ╬    3.7    ╬&#xA;╬──────────────────╬──────────────────────╬─────────────╬───────────╬&#xA;╬ Ring Terminals                                                    ╬&#xA;╬──────────────────╬──────────────────────╬─────────────╬───────────╬&#xA;╬   YF1.25-4 (red) ╬        22-16         ╬    .5-1.5   ╬    4.3    ╬&#xA;╬──────────────────╬──────────────────────╬─────────────╬───────────╬&#xA;╬ Butt Splice                                                       ╬&#xA;╬──────────────────╬──────────────────────╬─────────────╬───────────╬&#xA;╬   BF-1.2SS (red) ╬        22-16         ╬    .5-1.5   ╬   n/a     ╬&#xA;╬──────────────────╬──────────────────────╬─────────────╬───────────╬&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not sure if I should use ring or spade terminals, and I don't know what wire size to use; and I don't know what wire grade is inside a standard PC power cord or even if these are safe connectors to use for this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastActivityDate="2016-01-16T20:00:02.413" Title="Are these the right types of electrical connectors for hooking my Switching Power Supply up to a wall outlet?" Tags="|wiring|switching-power-supply|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="297" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-16T14:53:08.413" Score="4" ViewCount="277" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know that melted polymers are used for DLP (digital light processing) printing, by displaying the model onto the liquid material, which is the melted polymer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But, can I use materials like steel, carbon fiber, etc?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If yes, then what precautions and arrangement should I make to my apparatus for coping with their high melting point?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="163" LastEditorUserId="26" LastEditDate="2016-01-16T18:38:14.883" LastActivityDate="2016-01-16T18:38:14.883" Title="What are the other materials which can be used in DLP Printing, other than polymers?" Tags="|dlp|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="298" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="297" CreationDate="2016-01-16T15:36:33.630" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;DLP doesn't use &quot;melted polymer&quot;. It uses a photosenstive resin which is at room temperature and polymerizes when exposed to (UV) light. At no point is any material melted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As such, steel or carbon fiber can not be used as these materials are not photosensitive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastActivityDate="2016-01-16T15:36:33.630" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="299" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="132" CreationDate="2016-01-16T16:54:52.323" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've played with v1.2.9 only a little bit (I primarily use MakerWare). However, it looks as though you can just go to &lt;code&gt;Print Settings -&amp;gt; Speed -&amp;gt; (Modifiers) First Layer Speed&lt;/code&gt;. Here you'll have the option to set the speed in &lt;code&gt;mm/s or %&lt;/code&gt;. If you're having issues with the first layer (or two) not adhering very well to a raft, try reducing the distance between the part and the raft. Mine looks to be a default of 0.2mm. This can be adjusted from &lt;code&gt;Print Settings -&amp;gt; Support Material -&amp;gt; (Options for support material and raft) Contact Z distance&lt;/code&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please note that the closer the part is to the raft, the more likely the part is to sticking to the raft once it cools. So, I would recommend being close by as the part finished so you can quickly remove the raft before it cools with the part. It become especially more difficult with PLA because it becomes hardened during the print process, therefore resulting in a more catastrophic material failure if any part of the object is broken (such as a raft).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'll also note that I primarily use MakerWare for my machine and v3.8 has made it much easier to apply these types of settings. It's similar to Slic3r's interface and no longer in a JSON file that pops up. Through the MakerWare interface, you can navigate to &lt;code&gt;Settings -&amp;gt; Custom -&amp;gt; Extrusion Speeds -&amp;gt; First Layer&lt;/code&gt; to adjust the print speed. You'll also notice that there is a separate option for &lt;code&gt;First Layer Raft&lt;/code&gt; that ensures that the two values are separate in the post-processer. I believe it still may be possible to use MakerWare for a non-MakerBot machine, just export the file to GCode and you should be able to load it directly into your machine via SD card or possibly even Slic3r (it might change some of the code though).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="98" LastEditorUserId="98" LastEditDate="2016-01-16T17:02:59.127" LastActivityDate="2016-01-16T17:02:59.127" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="300" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="264" CreationDate="2016-01-16T18:46:49.003" Score="17" Body="&lt;p&gt;I generally agree with the points in masteusz's and Tom van der Zanden's answers, but I would add a bit more detail. Generally, the differences are minimal, however:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Generally speaking, a 1.75&amp;nbsp;mm filament will make it easier to use a smaller nozzle diameter (&amp;lt;0.4&amp;nbsp;mm), allowing for more precise prints in some cases.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1.75&amp;nbsp;mm filament will give you better flexibility with flow rates as it has a higher surface to volume ratio, allowing for faster melting in the nozzle, and allowing you to push your printer to higher volume extrusion rates.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The converse of the above points is also usually true. &quot;3&amp;nbsp;mm&quot; filament (which is usually actually 2.85&amp;nbsp;mm) will allow for better control and higher extrusion rates on wider nozzle diameters.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1.75&amp;nbsp;mm filament is indeed more popular than 2.85&amp;nbsp;mm, however the smaller diameter means that manufacturing tolerances really need to be tighter along the length of the filament—a ±0.1&amp;nbsp;mm difference in width along the length of your filament is only ±3.5&amp;nbsp;% for 2.85&amp;nbsp;mm and more like ±6.7&amp;nbsp;% for 1.75&amp;nbsp;mm, so you're going to have a bigger difference in actual flow rates compared to your expected flow rate set in your slicer, resulting in lower-than-expected print quality. That means you're probably going to want to spring for more expensive, higher quality 1.75&amp;nbsp;mm filament in order to get good prints.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your printer's hardware setup matters, too: Bowden-based printers, like the Ultimaker 2, generally have more luck with the thicker filament because thinner stuff will usually compress more in the Bowden tube and create a stronger spring effect, causing extra pressure in the nozzle. This will often cause blobbing, stringing, and over-extrusion and hamper the positive effect of your retractions.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ultimately, you can tune your printer and slicer settings to create or negate most any of the differences in print quality caused by filament diameter, but you may have an easier time with certain prints and printers with one diameter over the other.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="262" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-08-02T19:37:52.780" LastActivityDate="2018-08-02T19:37:52.780" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="301" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="296" CreationDate="2016-01-16T18:48:58.270" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is okay to just use bare wires in the type of screw connector found on your power supply. They're designed for it; they have a little plate under the screw that prevents the wires from being frayed by the screw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want neater wire termination, you should use one of the spade type ones. Pick the smallest size that fits your wires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PC power cords are generally fitted with an IEC C13 plug, and those are rated for 10A (meaning also the wires themselves will be able to carry at least that much current). This is fine for any home 3D printer which usually draws a fraction of that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastActivityDate="2016-01-16T18:48:58.270" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="302" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="296" CreationDate="2016-01-16T19:53:11.360" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The block on the supply will accept the bare wire&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/En7sd.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/En7sd.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;you &lt;em&gt;could&lt;/em&gt; use the yellow in the middle on the right, but the screw on the block essentially does its own crimp.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="47" LastEditorUserId="47" LastEditDate="2016-01-16T20:00:02.413" LastActivityDate="2016-01-16T20:00:02.413" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="303" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="305" CreationDate="2016-01-16T20:21:06.633" Score="19" ViewCount="356" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.nasa.gov/mission_pages/station/research/experiments/1115.html&quot;&gt;This article&lt;/a&gt; states that 3D printing has been accomplished in outer space, on the International Space Station.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm curious as to how this works differently from 3D printing on Earth. Are there any extra measures that needed to be taken to ensure that the filament would be correctly extruded onto the print bed, or during other steps?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="61" LastActivityDate="2016-01-20T21:54:24.843" Title="How is 3D printing done in space?" Tags="|applications|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="304" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="132" CreationDate="2016-01-16T20:21:29.990" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is still work in progress, and here is what I have so far, but first:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;A useful alternative for similar problems:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A problem very similar to this would be to use different settings for different parts of a model in Slic3r. For most settings, this can be achieved through &lt;a href=&quot;http://slic3r.org/blog/modifier-meshes&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;modifier meshes&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Post processing scripts:&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as I know, Slic3r does not give you the option of setting the speed of the first layer after a raft directly, but they do allow you to run &lt;a href=&quot;http://manual.slic3r.org/advanced/post-processing&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;post processing scripts&lt;/a&gt;; that is, to automatically run a set of operations - programmed by you - on the g-code output.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although far from trivial, you can in theory make a program that runs through the output g-code, adjusts the settings to your preference, and then saves it again at the target destination.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Tuning overall printer speed through g-code:&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As it turns out, there is a &lt;a href=&quot;http://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#M220:_Set_speed_factor_override_percentage&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;simple g-code command&lt;/a&gt; that sets the overall speed of your printer's operation:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;M220 S[some number]     ; see the link above for compatible firmware&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A &lt;a href=&quot;http://reprapworld.com/newletters/newsletter_4_201438.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;newsletter&lt;/a&gt; from Reprapwold explains that:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;For example M220 S50 will reduce the speed to 50%&#xA;  of the original sliced G-code. If you want to hurry your print to the finish in time&#xA;  for dinner, use M220 S200, to print twice as fast (200%)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In other words, just like some printers allow you the change speed mid-print, you can use the M220 command to override the current speed used, either through a user interface such as PrintRun, or by fiddling with the original g-code itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Manipulating the g-code output to adjust speed settings:&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The easiest way to achieve our goal would be to manually manipulate the output g-code file through a text editor, and insert our M220 command in appropriate places:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Set M220 S50 just before the first &lt;em&gt;perimeter&lt;/em&gt; layer (after the raft's &lt;em&gt;interface layer&lt;/em&gt;), to slow down the first layer of the actual model.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Set M220 S100 sometime after the first perimeter layer, to resume the normal speed settings.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In order to do this, though, we need to be able to distinguish these two points in the g-code output.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Distinguishing insertion points:&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Slic3r offers a setting under &lt;code&gt;Print Settings -&amp;gt; Output options -&amp;gt; Verbose G-code&lt;/code&gt; that - when enabled - inserts written comments all throughout the g-code files generated.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If one inspects a g-code file outputted for a model with raft, one will find the comment:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;; move to first perimeter point      &amp;lt;- lets call this A&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;; move to next layer (x)             &amp;lt;- lets call this B&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;littered several places throughout the gcode. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is under my &lt;em&gt;impression&lt;/em&gt; that the &lt;em&gt;first&lt;/em&gt; occurrence of comment &lt;strong&gt;A&lt;/strong&gt; happens right after the raft is finished, and before the actual model is being printed, while the first occurrence of comment &lt;strong&gt;B&lt;/strong&gt; succeeding comment &lt;strong&gt;A&lt;/strong&gt; can be used to set the speed back to normal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It should be noted, however, that &lt;strong&gt;the comments in the output g-code does not seem fully consistent&lt;/strong&gt;, and I would therefore not recommend anyone to automate this logic into a script without possibly finding other, more reliable breakpoints, and thoroughly verify these through several different models. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have not looked into the details of writing an automatic script for this task as of yet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="115" LastEditorUserId="115" LastEditDate="2016-01-16T20:29:42.770" LastActivityDate="2016-01-16T20:29:42.770" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="305" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="303" CreationDate="2016-01-16T20:42:11.373" Score="18" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most likely, the 3D-printers used on ISS does not incorporate some fundamental difference that allow them to print in zero gravity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some people over at &lt;a href=&quot;http://3dprint.com/62797/3d-printing-upside-down/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;3Dprint.com&lt;/a&gt; raised a very similar question, and figured that when turning their 3D-printer upside down and on it's side:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;there’s not really much difference at all. It’s quite interesting to see how the orientation has little effect on the quality.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of the early 3D-printer models - the &lt;a href=&quot;http://bukito3d.com/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Bukito&lt;/a&gt; printer - demonstrated that their printer was so portable it even could print on the move, and &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ePU4EEM3JEI&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;upside down&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In other words, some consumer 3D printers already print upside down, and so they would probably print in zero gravity as well!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;(That's the short story anyway. Have a look at Ryan's post, who gives a great description of the more intricate parts of space printing!)&lt;/em&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="115" LastEditorUserId="115" LastEditDate="2016-01-20T21:54:24.843" LastActivityDate="2016-01-20T21:54:24.843" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="306" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="271" CreationDate="2016-01-16T21:53:36.567" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use 3DLAC from Reprapworld on a heated bed. People I meet once a month during our 3D Printer meets use this stuff on non-heated beds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suspect it is just hairspray, but for me it did miracles. Especially printing large objects that go all the way up to the edge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="264" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-06-24T07:43:08.123" LastActivityDate="2019-06-24T07:43:08.123" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="307" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="264" CreationDate="2016-01-16T21:58:40.473" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I agree with all the answers above but only would  like to add if you want to build a very large printer using 0.8&amp;nbsp;mm or 1.2&amp;nbsp;mm nozzle, i would advice to go 3&amp;nbsp;mm. 1.75&amp;nbsp;mm filament then just can't be fed in fast enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="264" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-04-22T05:01:45.730" LastActivityDate="2019-04-22T05:01:45.730" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="308" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="208" CreationDate="2016-01-16T22:07:41.353" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have built a Kossel too. Got lots of tips from the Google Deltaprinter group.&#xA;Most important when using the Traxxas rod ends is to have the metal parts go into the freezer and the plastic parts in warm water(not boiling, just 60 degrees celsius or so). Then put the 2 together, due to the fact the metal crimps just a little and the hot water softens the plastic a bit, they will fit easy and will be stiff longer. These mounts tend to wear out causing play in the effector. I have printed 100's of hours on my Kossel mini with traxxas rods and still moves very nice and prints accurately.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="264" LastActivityDate="2016-01-16T22:07:41.353" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="309" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="310" CreationDate="2016-01-17T01:23:41.323" Score="3" ViewCount="42" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CJArK.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CJArK.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Sainsmart Endstops I picked up are different from the ones described in the RepRap Prusa i3 Rework electronics assembly wiki;  they have 4 female plugs that go into the RAMPS 1.4 board instead of 3:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iVXzh.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iVXzh.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since these endstops are different, how do I hook them up,  and what do the markings on them mean?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastActivityDate="2016-01-17T02:30:02.617" Title="My endstops have 4 female plugs, but the examples on the RepRap Prusa i3 Site have 3; what are each of them for?" Tags="|prusa-i3-rework|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="310" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="309" CreationDate="2016-01-17T02:30:02.617" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sainsmart.com/sainsmart-mechanical-endstop-for-cnc-3d-printer-reprap-makerbot-prusa-mendel-ramps.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;website&lt;/a&gt; shows exactly what each wire is for.  Both middle wires are ground, the wire on the same side as the lever is the signal wire and the last wire is the power wire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="233" LastActivityDate="2016-01-17T02:30:02.617" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="311" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6" CreationDate="2016-01-17T02:40:52.903" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Answering this question fully depends on the type of printer you have. Some printers have a pause capability, while others do not. Some have multiple extruders, while most do not. Some have a tube leading to the extruder and others do not. You specifically are asking about dealing with more than two colors when you have a dual-extruder, but the question generalizes to how to get more colors than you have extruders.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Markers probably offer the easiest solution. You could have different markers on the feeds for each extruder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For printers with no pause ability, you might have to snip one filament and hand feed the second color after the first one until it can be caught by the feeder gear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are rigs that are available, or that you can make, that will let you connect two strands together lengthwise. You can then make up a single piece of filament that has multiple colors. Thus, one extruder head will be generating multiple colors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Kickstarter mentioned elsewhere essentially does this automatically for several strands whose lengths are calculated precisely by special software. The result is a single strand of filament that goes into one of your extruders - the other extruder would be unused with this solution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="265" LastEditorUserId="265" LastEditDate="2016-01-18T20:00:31.667" LastActivityDate="2016-01-18T20:00:31.667" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="312" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="303" CreationDate="2016-01-17T02:51:48.487" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;To answer your question, you have to consider how the melted filament sticks to the print bed and to other layers, and if gravity has any affect on how it sticks. The answer is that gravity does &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; have any real affect on the stick-to-itivity of the filament. Instead, the plastic bonds to the print bed surface, and then subsequent layers fuse with the previous layer. Nor does gravity have any affect on how the filament is fed or how the belts and gears move. Certain filament roll holders may not be able to be used if they do not clamp the roll down, and the printer also needs to be clamped down. But, perhaps surprisingly, there isn't really anything else that needs to be done differently to make a printer work in space.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="265" LastEditorUserId="265" LastEditDate="2016-01-17T02:59:43.613" LastActivityDate="2016-01-17T02:59:43.613" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="313" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="314" CreationDate="2016-01-17T13:27:51.030" Score="10" ViewCount="10695" Body="&lt;p&gt;My printed objects have horizontal holes in them (as seen I the picture below):&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tSNwG.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tSNwG.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This doesn't only look bad it also makes the object break at the seems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looking carefully at the printing process I can see that after a retraction there's a small amount of time the hotend isn't extruding plastic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Material: PLA, Printer Robo 3D R1+, Slicer: Cura&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="170" LastEditorUserId="1" LastEditDate="2016-02-08T14:14:21.230" LastActivityDate="2016-02-08T14:14:21.230" Title="Holes/ missing layers (after retraction) in 3d printed objects" Tags="|extrusion|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="314" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="313" CreationDate="2016-01-17T13:27:51.030" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;(answering my own question)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem was the extrusion distance settings in Cura's advanced tab, reducing the value to 1.5mm solved the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other problems with the same symptoms:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Partially blocked hotend nozzle.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Incorrectly configured steps per mm for the extruder motor - &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YUPfBJz3I6Y&quot;&gt;this youtube video&lt;/a&gt; shows how to test and configure this. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="170" LastActivityDate="2016-01-17T13:27:51.030" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="315" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="264" CreationDate="2016-01-17T20:52:42.733" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;One thing I haven't seen anyone mention yet is the issue of the size vis-a-vis time of the final print. 3&amp;nbsp;mm filament allows the printer to spit out a &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;lot&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; of plastic at once, letting you build must taller prints much faster. Larger filament can also provide a much wider base for the next layer to rest on; smaller filament needs to print multiple times side-by-side to get the same width.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course the fineness of the layers will suffer, but you can go about twice as high in one pass compared to when you use the smaller filament. On the flip side, the smaller filament will more easily print extremely fine layers than the bigger filament. So it's a trade off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Consider the printers building items feet or tens of feet in height. They use &quot;filaments&quot; that are measured in centimeters or decimeter a instead of millimeters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="265" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-04-22T05:02:58.397" LastActivityDate="2019-04-22T05:02:58.397" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="316" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="233" CreationDate="2016-01-17T21:10:02.400" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some people use a nylon &quot;cleaning&quot; filament when switching types of filaments. It heats well to a variety of temperatures and seems to stick well to whatever is in there when pulling it back out. Be sure to heat it up to the temperature of the filament being removed to get that to bind with the nylon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="265" LastActivityDate="2016-01-17T21:10:02.400" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="317" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="293" CreationDate="2016-01-17T23:21:33.840" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I like the mounting method on my Mk9 extruder: there's a small hole drilled into the heat block, parallel to the heater hole. B3 Innovations sells a thermistor packaged into a small spring. The whole assembly goes in the hole, and a setscrew (gently!) secures it. You could just as well put a bare thermistor into a spring or something similar; it's mainly to protect the thermistor from the setscrew, and from excessive bending.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From your photo, it looks like the same thing would work fine for your hotend.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However you mount it, adding some thermal grease can help conduction from the surroundings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastActivityDate="2016-01-17T23:21:33.840" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="318" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-18T02:24:45.413" Score="6" ViewCount="973" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have captured several models using &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.123dapp.com/catch&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;123D Catch&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;https://recap360.autodesk.com/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Autodesk ReCap 360&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do all my &quot;clean up&quot; work in &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.123dapp.com/meshmixer&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;MeshMixer&lt;/a&gt; to prepare the models for printing, and while exporting to STL works great for printing on my home FDM printer I haven't been able to get color files exported.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would like to export scanned models from MeshMixer and upload them to an online printing service (i.e. &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.shapeways.com/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Shapeways&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.materialise.com/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;iMaterialise&lt;/a&gt;) and have them printed on high end color machines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My current workflow goes as follows. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Export raw model (OBJ) from 123D Catch or ReCap.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Open model in MeshMixer v10.10.170.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Remove unnecessary parts of the model.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Export model as OBJ, OBJ with per vertex color, or VRML. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Zip model and exported texture files and upload to an online service.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The file in MeshMixer looks great, but ends up with either jumbled or nonexistent  textures when it's uploaded to an online service. I'm guessing I'm exporting the file wrong for 3D printing, or possibly that I need to do some post-export editing to make everything line up correctly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="56" LastActivityDate="2016-01-27T14:20:13.250" Title="Can MeshMixer export models for color 3D printing?" Tags="|123d-catch|obj|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="319" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="335" CreationDate="2016-01-18T10:29:58.050" Score="5" ViewCount="3093" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are there any techniques for getting a smooth finish for parts printed with co-polyester (PET) filaments? More specifically, I am looking for an alternative that does not roughen the look of the part - such as using sandpaper - but rather works like acetone baths for ABS.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In particular, I want to treat ColorFabb's XT filament made from the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.eastman.com/Markets/3D_Printing/Pages/Products.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Eastman Amphora™ 3D polymer&lt;/a&gt; (&lt;a href=&quot;http://ws.eastman.com/ProductCatalogApps/PageControllers/ProdDatasheet_PC.aspx?Product=71100831&amp;amp;sCategoryName=Generic&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;datasheet&lt;/a&gt;). This is also the polymer is also used in:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;ColorFabb &lt;a href=&quot;http://colorfabb.com/co-polyesters&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;nGen and XT&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Taulman3D n-vent&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;TripTech Athiri 1800&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;3DXTech 3DXNano&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="115" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2022-10-05T11:25:28.937" LastActivityDate="2022-10-05T11:25:28.937" Title="How to smooth the surface of parts printed with Co-polyester (PET) filament" Tags="|filament|post-processing|pet|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="320" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="233" CreationDate="2016-01-18T11:15:57.573" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I always find the best way is to run more filament through the nozzle.  Just enough for a full colour change.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="198" LastActivityDate="2016-01-18T11:15:57.573" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="321" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-18T12:28:29.653" Score="7" ViewCount="1452" Body="&lt;p&gt;Common 3D printers (read &quot;cheap&quot;) may be used to print masks for PCBs (printed-circuit boards) which use PTH (through-hole) components.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But can they be used to print PCBs which use SMD components? I'd like to make boards at least for Arduino-like SMD chips.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="281" LastActivityDate="2016-01-19T14:49:14.100" Title="Can a common 3D printer be used to print masks for PCBs which use SMD components?" Tags="|electronics|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="322" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="324" CreationDate="2016-01-18T12:33:22.370" Score="19" ViewCount="19947" Body="&lt;p&gt;When designing parts that should either fit with external objects or other printed parts, what measures can one take to ensure that the dimensions of the final print are accurate and fit the other object?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To my knowledge, you at least have two options to account for printer inaccuracy and shrinkage:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Adjust the space around joints in your CAD model&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Adjust dimensional offsets in your slicer software&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any good workflows one can use to design and print 3D-models accurately without resorting to trial and error?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="115" LastEditorUserId="36802" LastEditDate="2024-01-26T08:08:44.087" LastActivityDate="2024-01-26T08:08:44.087" Title="How to achieve dimensional accuracy of printed parts?" Tags="|desktop-printer|print-preparation|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="323" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="321" CreationDate="2016-01-18T13:08:37.313" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In theory, I imagine you can, but there are some practical considerations that might need some thought:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have a desktop printer with multiple extruders, you could probably print with both one &lt;em&gt;conductive&lt;/em&gt; and one &lt;em&gt;structural&lt;/em&gt; filament, and thereby build circuits in 3D.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One concern would be the low melting points of most 3D printed filaments, since one would have to limit the heat generated by the mounted components and connections so that the structure of the &quot;board&quot; would not be melted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mounting components to the board would also differ from a normal PCB, since you would have to connect the components with the conductive filament without melting the structure of the board. In other words, you probably would have to use conductive filament as &quot;solder&quot;, and melt components into place. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whether you could use typical tools used for mounting SMD components with conductive filament as solder is beyond my knowledge. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="115" LastEditorUserId="115" LastEditDate="2016-01-18T14:13:42.253" LastActivityDate="2016-01-18T14:13:42.253" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="324" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="322" CreationDate="2016-01-18T13:23:01.253" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think the best way to go about this would be to calibrate your printer and slicer as best you can.  One of my pet peeves is when people upload STLs that have been adjusted to fit their printer/material.  There are many suppliers of material that vary in quality as well as many materials and different printers that the tolerances shouldn't be built into the part because in the end it usually just makes it harder for others attempting to print the model.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you aren't sharing models then all I can say is you are still better off to calibrate your printer and tune your slicer to your material.  You'll have more luck with models from other people and have an easier time designing your own.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you still have trouble then modifying the model is probably the last option.  I don't know of any CAD programs that can work with problems 3D printers have so experience is going to be your only help.  I know in Inventor you can go around and Thicken/Offset individual surfaces of the model to compensate or if you had a percentage for your shrinkage you could get creative with formulas in the sketches.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="233" LastActivityDate="2016-01-18T13:23:01.253" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="325" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="322" CreationDate="2016-01-18T15:27:53.853" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think it's important to remember that a 3D printer is both an R&amp;amp;D tool and a piece of manufacturing equipment. As such, we should treat it and it's process similarly to other pieces of manufacturing equipment (ie mills, saws, etc.). Other (albeit traditional) manufacturing methods such as a mill will typically require post-processing to parts to remove any burrs and clean the parts. Since tools like a mill are a subtractive technology, it can already hold tight positional/dimensional tolerances. However, as 3D printing is additive manufacturing, it's difficult to hold the same tolerances directly out of the machine as compared to traditional tools.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For this reason, I would suggest planning time for a more traditional process after the print if tolerances and connections are a concern. This could be as simple as using a Dremel or using a mill/lathe. I would recommend increasing your shell/floor/roof settings in your slicer to accommodate the subtractive process though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="98" LastActivityDate="2016-01-18T15:27:53.853" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="326" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-18T16:16:23.127" Score="1" ViewCount="51" Body="&lt;p&gt;Lately I've been working on tweaking firmware to fix functions on my printer.  A few of my biggest issues are lack of understanding of C and finding out how the multiple cpp and h files are linked.  Most of what I am doing is easy enough to do with copy and paste but with most firmwares having 30+ individual files it's hard to find where each parameter comes from or goes to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've been looking at Eclipse with an Arduino plugin as well as Visual Studio (or Atmel Studio) with the Visual Micro plugin.  What I would like is an easy way to view where each parameter is used, maybe highlight the parameter and it shows all instances or something similar?  Is there any IDE that offers something like that or is everyone using the Arduino IDE for firmware development?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="233" LastActivityDate="2016-01-18T17:36:57.780" Title="Understand and developing firmware - IDE help" Tags="|firmware|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="327" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="326" CreationDate="2016-01-18T17:36:57.780" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As far as I know, Marlin - assuming that is the firmware you are using - is a standard C++ (the big brother of C) project that can be opened and compiled in the Arduino IDE, but also - at least - edited lots of other IDEs. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on your OS, there are several alternatives. Visual Studio, Atmel Studio, Qt Creator, XCode, Eclipse, Visual Studio Code, Atom, Sublime Text and the Arduino IDE are just some of them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also believe that this question should be moved to StackOverflow. However, if you have questions as to how you can make &lt;em&gt;specific&lt;/em&gt; modification to Marlin, this forum is the right place to ask. If that is the case, consider reformulating your question!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="115" LastActivityDate="2016-01-18T17:36:57.780" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="328" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="319" CreationDate="2016-01-18T18:13:17.340" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've found a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.plasticsintl.com/plastics_chemical_resistence_chart.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;chart&lt;/a&gt; which covers several plastics and solvents and only two of them (&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chloromethane&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Chloromethane&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chloroform&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Chloroform&lt;/a&gt;) are rated &quot;D&quot; which includes dissolving the material and both seem to be quite nasty and I doubt you will be able to purchase them without being placed on several lists.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it possible that something like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.smooth-on.com/Epoxy-Coatings-XTC/c1397_1429/index.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;XTC-3D&lt;/a&gt; from Smooth-On would work for you?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also some more information on dissolving PET &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.researchgate.net/post/How_do_you_dissolve_polyethyelene_terephthalate_PET&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;, several sources also mention PET is affected by Hydrogen Peroxide but they do not mention to what degree the plastic is affected.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="233" LastEditorUserId="233" LastEditDate="2016-01-18T18:22:33.493" LastActivityDate="2016-01-18T18:22:33.493" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="329" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-19T00:13:36.493" Score="4" ViewCount="392" Body="&lt;p&gt;I printed the mechanical parts to mount a E3D v6 on my Ultimaker Original+. But I don't know how to connect my heating cartridge, my thermistor and my 3 fans to the electronic board. Any idea?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: I should have said I'm using the following design: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youmagine.com/designs/e3d-v6-hot-end-mount&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://www.youmagine.com/designs/e3d-v6-hot-end-mount&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My main problem is to connect all 3 fans, as the original design of the UMO+ is only using one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="175" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2019-09-30T10:20:37.420" LastActivityDate="2019-09-30T10:20:37.420" Title="Installing E3D v6 extruder electronics on Ultimaker Original+" Tags="|electronics|ultimaker-original|e3d-v6|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="330" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="329" CreationDate="2016-01-19T02:16:03.147" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not certain exactly what you're asking, but I'll give this a try. If I've misunderstood, please give more details.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It sounds like you're upgrading to the E3D v6. If so, the heater, thermistor, and fans should connect to the same places as the previous ones did. The exception would be if you had thermocouples instead of thermistors before; that's a more complicated change.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the &lt;em&gt;connectors&lt;/em&gt; are different, you'll need to get matching connectors from a parts supplier (post a picture if you're having trouble identifying them). Fortunately each of the items you mentioned has 2 wires, and for the heater and thermistor polarity doesn't matter. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For fans, polarity &lt;em&gt;does&lt;/em&gt; matter, so match up red vs. black, or just try it one way, and if the fan doesn't turn, then swap the wires. Some fans have a third wire, which could be used for measuring the actual rotation speed (see [&lt;a href=&quot;http://pcbheaven.com/wikipages/How_PC_Fans_Work]&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://pcbheaven.com/wikipages/How_PC_Fans_Work]&lt;/a&gt;); but it's not necessary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastActivityDate="2016-01-19T02:16:03.147" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="331" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="348" CreationDate="2016-01-19T02:32:34.107" Score="9" ViewCount="5795" Body="&lt;p&gt;I upgraded to a dual Mk9 extruder, and quickly discovered how critical it is to get the ends of both nozzles exactly level with each other -- that is, equally distant from the build plate at all times. Otherwise the lower one will crash against the plastic just extruded by the higher one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, what's a good procedure for getting the nozzles accurately level? About all I've figure out is to move the heads down close to Z=0, and then run X and Y back and forth and eyeball and adjust; then move even closer to Z=0 and repeat. Is there a better / more efficient way?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2016-01-19T13:38:20.540" LastActivityDate="2019-10-13T11:08:01.643" Title="Levelling heads for dual extruder" Tags="|dual-nozzle|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="332" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14" CreationDate="2016-01-19T03:38:51.483" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's also an interesting discussion of printing with specially-designed solder alloys, at &lt;a href=&quot;http://blog.reprap.org/2011/06/new-approach-to-printing-metals.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;RepRap: Blog - A new approach to printing metals&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The author settled on 57.5%Sn, 41.3%Bi, 1.2% In, which begins to melt at 130&amp;nbsp;°C and finishes by about 170&amp;nbsp;°C. This has much better viscosity after melting, so it doesn't just drip away or bead up, and whose melting point is low enough that it can be applied directly on top of PLA or ABS. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Brass nozzles corrode quickly, however, so another material is needed (anodized Al was an improvement). It sounds difficult but feasible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2019-06-18T14:25:02.997" LastActivityDate="2019-06-18T14:25:02.997" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="333" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35" CreationDate="2016-01-19T04:13:16.343" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is scanning technology: either hardware or software (such software typically works from multiple 2D photographs). It has limitations, but is an active research area, and getting better all the time. &quot;Autodesk 123D Catch&quot; and &quot;3-Sweep&quot; are a couple examples.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One tradeoff between automatic and manual is the complexity of the shape you need to duplicate. Sometimes you can make a much simpler shape that still works, and/or thicken the part so it doesn't break the next time. That can make manual design much more attractive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastActivityDate="2016-01-19T04:13:16.343" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="334" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-19T04:55:24.273" Score="12" ViewCount="209" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to 3D-print some parts that will be later joined together along a seam. When modeling these separate parts, what are some methods that work well with 3D-printed pieces? For example, if I were doing wood working, I might choose dowel and pin joints or mortise and tenon joints or glue overlapping pieces. What methods translate well into use with 3D-printed plastics? How does the answer change depending on the orientation of the joint along the printing direction? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="265" LastEditorUserId="115" LastEditDate="2016-01-19T06:19:49.283" LastActivityDate="2016-01-19T21:51:41.667" Title="Comparative design methods for joints that will be joined together" Tags="|print-preparation|3d-design|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="335" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="319" CreationDate="2016-01-19T09:58:32.033" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ethyl acetate (sold as a MEK substitute) is supposed to work for vapor smoothing PET.  It doesn't seem very toxic (it's used to decaffinate cofee and tea, and as a nail polish remover), but you might want to look more into it.  There's a post on Printed Solid's blog where he vapor smoothed colorFabb XT and MadeSolid PET+ along with a few other filaments and got some good results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://printedsolid.com/blogs/news/37035395-vapor-smoothing-3d-printed-parts-pla-colorfabb-xt-t-glase-pet&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://printedsolid.com/blogs/news/37035395-vapor-smoothing-3d-printed-parts-pla-colorfabb-xt-t-glase-pet&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The links in the blog don't work for me, but google was able to find slightly larger versions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0887/0138/files/blog_2014-03-20-18.38.04-1024x613.jpg?16147388421280943481&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0887/0138/files/blog_2014-03-20-18.38.04-1024x613.jpg?16147388421280943481&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0887/0138/files/blog_2014-03-21-18.16.28-1024x612.jpg?9543779874607042697&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0887/0138/files/blog_2014-03-21-18.16.28-1024x612.jpg?9543779874607042697&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="91" LastActivityDate="2016-01-19T09:58:32.033" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="336" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="233" CreationDate="2016-01-19T11:28:09.540" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;eSun has a cleaning filament that extrudes at a wide range of temperatures.  It may seem ridiculous to use filament that costs over $100 USD per kilo to purge the nozzle, but it's very convenient and in practice, you don't use much each time (it's sold in 100g packs).  I'm still using some samples I received with some filament over a year ago.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cold pulls will probably be more effective though (as described in another answer), they're just more effort.  I usually use cold pulls with nylon when I want to clear out my nozzle, either as part of routine maintenance or when switching to plastics that are sensitive to contamination (usually PETG or ninjaflex).  I usually use the cleaning filament when I want to change from a dark to a light or clear filament, especially if the new filament is expensive.  Most of the time I just feed in enough of the new filament to purge out the old, with the temperature set to the max of the two.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="91" LastActivityDate="2016-01-19T11:28:09.540" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="337" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="321" CreationDate="2016-01-19T14:49:14.100" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;In addition to the thermal issues Tormod raised, there is a conductivity issue. Present conductive filaments are much less conductive than copper. The power loss may be enough to affect functionality. Also, the lost power goes to heat, making the thermal problems worse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For bulk materials, &quot;volume resistivity&quot; is measured in &quot;Ohm-cm&quot;, which is the resistance of a 1 cm cube of the material, measured from one entire face to the opposite entire face (see &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Electrical_resistivity_and_conductivity&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Electrical_resistivity_and_conductivity&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Copper has a volume resistivity of about 1.68 &lt;em&gt;micro&lt;/em&gt;Ohm-cm. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Proto-pasta conductive PLA filament claims 15 ohm-cm (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.proto-pasta.com/pages/conductive-pla&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.proto-pasta.com/pages/conductive-pla&lt;/a&gt;). Functionalize F-Electic&amp;trade; claims 0.75 ohm-cm (&lt;a href=&quot;http://functionalize.com/about/functionalize-f-electric-highly-conductive-filament/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://functionalize.com/about/functionalize-f-electric-highly-conductive-filament/&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Printing itself significantly raises resistivity. Proto-pasta claims 30 ohm-cm along X and Y, 115 along Z. More intuitively, each cm of length of a 2.5mm wide printed trace, 0.4mm thick, should add several hundred ohms with the Proto-pasta, or several tens of ohms with the F-electric. That may be enough to matter. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's probably worth mentioning that there's a specialized PCB printer (the &quot;Voltera&quot;) that uses (pricey) conductive ink, and can also dispense solder paste: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.computerworld.com/article/2885188/3d-circuit-board-printer-a-smash-hit-on-kickstarter.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.computerworld.com/article/2885188/3d-circuit-board-printer-a-smash-hit-on-kickstarter.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastActivityDate="2016-01-19T14:49:14.100" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="338" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="239" CreationDate="2016-01-19T15:03:44.563" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is a filament width sensor design at &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:454584&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:454584&lt;/a&gt; -- cleverly, the author tweaked Marlin so it adjusts extrusion in real time to correct for variations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, I agree with several others that buying filament with better quality control, and keeping it dry and unchewed by Labradors, should be enough. :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastActivityDate="2016-01-19T15:03:44.563" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="339" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="351" CreationDate="2016-01-19T15:36:34.467" Score="9" ViewCount="639" Body="&lt;p&gt;My Replicator (you know, the one made of balsa wood) has blown a voltage regulator on its MightyBoard for the second time. The first time, MakerBot graciously replaced it. However, they replaced with the same model board with no apparent fix for the commonly faulty voltage regulator. I can't afford the now $500 replacement board, so my option is to replace the faulty component and hope no further damage was taken on the board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As MakerBot Industries did not need me to send in my old board, I've &lt;a href=&quot;http://coolate.com/blog/blog/2015/02/23/its-alive-makerbot-replicator-repaired/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;followed these steps&lt;/a&gt; to try and replace the voltage regulator on the old board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've offset the voltage regulator towards the power jack, jumped the remaining pin on the voltage regulator to the remaining lead on the board (where the old voltage regulator was), but I'm confused what/where the green wire does/goes (mine is blue on my machine). The image looks like he just soldered it onto the heat sink pad.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried to test it by plugging in the power and the RGB LED strip. The stepper motor driver LEDs turned on, but the LED strip and none of the other on-board LEDs turned on. I'm not very seasoned when it comes to electronics, so can anyone explain what the actual pinout should be or suggest other ways to resolve this issue?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Update: Old Board Replacement&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So far I've replaced the regulator on my old board with some success. Before the replacement, the board wouldn't turn on (on-board LEDs wouldn't turn on). Now, all of the proper status LEDs turn on, but the board seems to be stuck in a boot sequence. The LCD screen provides two lines of block characters (as it normally does when initializing), but just hangs up there. I tried connecting the machine to my PC to try and restore the board to factory settings and install the latest firmware. However, the PC couldn't find the machine and I began to smell a bit of burning. I'm not sure if this is a result of permanent damage from the original regulator failing, or improper installation of the new regulator.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm going to dig around a bit more before attempting this fix on my main board. I'll edit this post as I continue the project.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Update: New Board Replacement&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, I've now attempted the fix on the newest board (the reason for this question). The results of this board are the same as the old one. I actually get power on the main board, but the LCD screen just shows two solid lines. I've taken pictures of what I've done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3hKX9m.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3hKX9m.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;LCD Screen Not Working&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FmQdCm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FmQdCm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Power Up&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qR0Uqm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qR0Uqm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Ground Connection&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="98" LastEditorUserId="98" LastEditDate="2016-07-03T20:47:30.480" LastActivityDate="2016-07-03T20:47:30.480" Title="MakerBot Replicator 1 Voltage Regulator Fix" Tags="|fdm|makerbot|replicator-dual|mightyboard|fff|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="340" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11" CreationDate="2016-01-19T16:40:11.673" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;It takes quite an effort to make &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Polylactic_acid&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;PLA&lt;/a&gt; shiny, and it's not as simple as &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Acrylonitrile_butadiene_styrene&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;ABS&lt;/a&gt; and acetone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You have to sand down the print with sandpaper with &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sandpaper#Grit_size_table&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;different grit sizes&lt;/a&gt; (start with grit P100, then P240, P400, P600, P1500 and P2000).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To make the shining result you have to polish the print with plastic finish compound. Alternatively you can apply &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GSKxycs3kPg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;XTC-3D Print Coating&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See these posts:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://rumy.io/blog/finishing-3d-printed-parts&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Finishing 3D Printed Parts in 1 Simple Step&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://blog.fictiv.com/posts/ultimate-guide-to-finishing-3d-printed-parts&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Ultimate Guide to Finishing 3D Printed Parts&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="75" LastEditorUserId="1333" LastEditDate="2016-04-10T14:31:14.127" LastActivityDate="2016-04-10T14:31:14.127" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="341" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="366" CreationDate="2016-01-19T21:21:46.710" Score="3" ViewCount="2562" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just received this printer and while it seems to talk to Makerbot Desktop software I'm not sure if I should be trying to update the firmware.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The printer comes with firmware v7.2 and while Makerbot Desktop offers an upgrade to v7.5 I'm not sure if it's a good idea with this non-Makerbot branded printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've also seen information on upgrading this printer to Sailfish v7.5, is this the same thing as Makerbot firmware v7.5?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="56" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-12-10T06:32:02.560" LastActivityDate="2019-12-10T06:32:02.560" Title="Updating firmware on Monoprice Architect printer" Tags="|firmware|makerbot|monoprice-maker-architect|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="342" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="334" CreationDate="2016-01-19T21:51:41.667" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;One of my favorite techniques is to join pieces with screws, and include a tapered feature that helps align the parts. A single screw can give a very strong joint, that is well-aligned and won't twist. Another advantage is that such joints can be printed in any orientation, since the tapered feature can be designed with 45 degree angles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a cross-section example of such a joint:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vFFzd.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vFFzd.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastActivityDate="2016-01-19T21:51:41.667" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="343" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="520" CreationDate="2016-01-19T23:02:39.743" Score="4" ViewCount="549" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I use Cura with the Pronterface UI it sometime just stops printing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When it stops the printer just stops, the UI looks like it's still printing but nothing is moving in the printer, also, trying to control the printer from the UI does nothing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It always stops early in the printing process, usually during the auto-leveling process or while printing the skirt, the latest it happened was during the first solid layer of a raft.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Usually closing the printing window and re-opening it solves the problem but not always, this never happened to me with the basic UI, I couldn't find any settings that makes the problem better or worse, it just happens randomly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyone knows how to stop that from happening?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My printer is a Robo 3D R1+&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After installing a screen on my printer I discovered Pronterface is sending a &quot;Wait for user&quot; G Code to the printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because this changes the question too much and invalidates the existing answer I've asked a new question at &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/518/what-makes-pronterface-wait-for-user&quot;&gt;What makes Pronterface wait for user?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="170" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T13:00:58.447" LastActivityDate="2016-02-08T14:14:27.663" Title="Cura with Pronterface UI stops printing" Tags="|software|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="344" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="346" CreationDate="2016-01-19T23:18:20.953" Score="7" ViewCount="7336" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm in the process of building a 3D printer and have all the stepper motors wired up and the controller connected to the computer running pronterface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can move each axis and also send g-code to the printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now &lt;strong&gt;how can I define the current position to be the 0/0/0 position?&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;I'd like to move the printer into a position where I think should be the zero position and define it as such in pronterface somehow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10" LastActivityDate="2016-01-20T12:29:10.620" Title="How can I set the position in Pronterface?" Tags="|software|pronterface|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="345" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="204" CreationDate="2016-01-19T23:54:02.627" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sound like you just have a defective thermocouple. But, I just did a google search for &quot;Why are thermocouples inaccurate&quot; and found &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.temprel.com/support/troubleshoot-thermocouple.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this article&lt;/a&gt; on identifying bad thermocouples and preventative maintenance. I never thought of a lot of the tips in the article, but I haven't had such drastic temperature errors either.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="98" LastActivityDate="2016-01-19T23:54:02.627" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="346" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="344" CreationDate="2016-01-20T06:48:51.637" Score="7" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;G92 X0 Y0 Z0&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;tells the printer that the current position is (0,0,0).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastActivityDate="2016-01-20T06:48:51.637" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="347" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="343" CreationDate="2016-01-20T07:43:06.507" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A problem I have come across when using Pronterface is that the operating system starves the resources of the program if the program's window is not in the front.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I, for instance, started a print, then started browsing the web, it would sometimes suddenly stop. When bringing Pronterface back to the front, it would take a few seconds, and then continue (if I remember correctly).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On OS X - which I am using - I believe this is called &lt;em&gt;app nap&lt;/em&gt;, while a similar mechanism exist for Windows. I ended up printing form an SD card myself after this, but you might want to try manually setting the resource priority for Pronterface in your OS.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In Windows, you could trying to increase the resource allocation for Pronterface by going to &lt;code&gt;Task Manager -&amp;gt; Details -&amp;gt; Right click the Pronterface process -&amp;gt; Set Priority&lt;/code&gt;. I would be careful to set it too high, since you are basically allowing the program more juice to potentially do something wrong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In OS X you could try to &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.ihash.eu/2015/01/disable-app-nap-per-app-os-x-yosemite/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;disable app nap&lt;/a&gt; for Pronterface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="115" LastEditorUserId="115" LastEditDate="2016-01-20T08:18:48.987" LastActivityDate="2016-01-20T08:18:48.987" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="348" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="331" CreationDate="2016-01-20T12:17:43.610" Score="6" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Make sure that the &lt;strong&gt;bed is level&lt;/strong&gt;. As the saying goes, a level bed is next to godliness or something like that. Pay extra attention to the direction the nozzles are offset by (if one nozzle is offset on the X-axis, pay extra attention to the bed leveling along the X-axis). &lt;a href=&quot;http://wiki.solidoodle.com/leveling-the-print-bed&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;This can be done with just one nozzle and a business card or piece of paper&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use a &lt;strong&gt;bubble level&lt;/strong&gt; to get the nozzles about right. Move your z-axis up a bit and put a bubble level against the nozzles. Adjust as necessary so it's exactly level. The nozzles should be level enough that the bubble stays in the middle.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fine-tune it with a &lt;strong&gt;business card&lt;/strong&gt;. When you home the z- axis, you should be able to just fit a business card under both nozzles with a moderate amount of resistance. Don't force the card. If sliding the business card under produces a different amount of resistance for one nozzle than for another, adjust the nozzle a &lt;em&gt;tiny&lt;/em&gt; amount. You can also use an index card or playing card.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Once it passes the card test, try a test print. If it doesn't work, make sure your bed is level, your nozzle offset is correct in the slicing software, and try calibrating with an index card again. If the nozzles become way off, try the bubble level again.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for physically adjusting the level, another answer suggests shims made from aluminum foil, which work well. Personally, my extruder was off-level by almost exactly 1mm, so a pair of washers worked nicely for that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Happy printing!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Leveling with a bubble:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/O1IDe.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/O1IDe.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Almost level, sorry for the bad lighting&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="156" LastEditorUserId="156" LastEditDate="2016-01-21T03:27:20.587" LastActivityDate="2016-01-21T03:27:20.587" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="349" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="344" CreationDate="2016-01-20T12:29:10.620" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's a handy list of G0-codes at &lt;a href=&quot;http://reprap.org/wiki/G-code&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://reprap.org/wiki/G-code&lt;/a&gt; -- though the list is too big to be convenient for finding a code if you're not already sure what it's called... :(&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastActivityDate="2016-01-20T12:29:10.620" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="350" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13" CreationDate="2016-01-20T12:35:27.430" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's also worth noting that the ratio of nozzle diameter to layer height affects strength. The layer height is typically set slightly smaller than the nozzle diameter, so the nozzle &quot;squeezes&quot; the new plastic onto the previous layer. This is especially important for the first layer, because it affects how well the object sticks to the bed; but it also affects inter-layer strength.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastActivityDate="2016-01-20T12:35:27.430" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="351" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="339" CreationDate="2016-01-20T12:58:27.900" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;What's the part number of the regulator you're putting in? The pin assignments vary from one part to another, but you can probably find them from the part number online. Some parts have the ground pin also connected to a metal part of their case. The green wire from the board &lt;em&gt;should&lt;/em&gt; be ground (no promises!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming you've got a voltmeter, you can use it to find out which pins on the board are power and ground (easiest to do before the regulator is installed...). Then once installed, check that you're really getting 5V versus ground on the remaining (output) pin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since 2 of these burned out on you, I suggest taking steps to reduce the strain on the regulator. Voltage regulators turn the excess power into heat. Some things that can help:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Use heat sink grease to conduct heat from the regulator to the circuit board, the adjacent socket, etc. Hot melt glue, as the instructions you linked to mention, won't likely provide as much heat conduction.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Attach a heat sink to the regulator, or a &lt;em&gt;bigger&lt;/em&gt; heat sink.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Get more air blowing across the regulator. You could do this by moving the regulator slightly, adding a fan, adding something to redirect some air onto the regulator, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Swap in a bigger voltage regulator (that is, one rated for more current)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Turn down the voltage just a tiny bit on your power supply (if it has a control for that; many do).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let us know how it turns out!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Steve&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastActivityDate="2016-01-20T12:58:27.900" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="352" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="363" CreationDate="2016-01-20T14:06:31.790" Score="9" ViewCount="4681" Body="&lt;p&gt;Wondering if &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homedepot.com/p/Crown-Bolt-10-Amp-Up-to-250-Volt-AGC-Fuse-71648/203537223&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;this fuse&lt;/a&gt; is safe to use in &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B00511QVVK&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;this switch/plug&lt;/a&gt; to turn on /off a &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B007KG0ZYI&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;12V DC 30A Power Supply 360W Power Supply&lt;/a&gt; that will power a RAMPS 1.4 board for a Prusa i3 with an external led display that contains an SD Card Reader.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:31659&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;suggestion to use it here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastEditorUserId="37" LastEditDate="2016-01-21T20:52:29.177" LastActivityDate="2016-01-21T20:52:29.177" Title="Is this fuse a good choice for my Prusa i3's power supply and RAMPS 1.4?" Tags="|electronics|prusa-i3-rework|switching-power-supply|ramps-1.4|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="354" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="331" CreationDate="2016-01-20T16:07:59.413" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Two good options for ROUGH alignment:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;For threaded thermal barrier type extruders:&lt;/strong&gt; use a leveling jig&#xA;like this while the extruders are disassembled:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:23013&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:23013&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;For straight-shaft thermal barrier type extruders:&lt;/strong&gt; Carefully level&#xA;the bed to whichever nozzle is lower, using your preferred piece of&#xA;paper / business card / feeler gauge. Then stick the same paper /&#xA;leveling tool under the higher nozzle, release the set screw or&#xA;clamp on the tube, and drop it down to rest on the leveling tool. You can also use a printed jig if your thermal barrier tubes are stuck and need some force to move.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The best and easiest way for FINE alignment:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Shims.&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just stick some folded-up aluminum foil (or layers of Kapton, or whatever) under whichever end of the cooling bar is lower, and tighten the screws holding it onto the carriage. Re-adjust as needed until perfectly level. This is ten times more accurate and much easier than trying to get precision alignment of the thermal barrier tubes in the bar itself. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="298" LastActivityDate="2016-01-20T16:07:59.413" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="355" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="204" CreationDate="2016-01-20T16:40:01.790" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Thermocouples work by passively generating VERY small voltages via the Seebeck effect -- usually a few tens of millivolts. They're literally just a pair of wires made from two different special alloys, electrically connected together at the &quot;hot&quot; end. That wire junction can be mounted inside whatever kind of attachment tip or lug is desired.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The fact that they're very simple and passive devices makes them extremely precise and consistent between TCs of the same type, MUCH more so than thermistors. Any type-K thermocouple in the world will give you the same accurate output +/-1-2C or so. You can even cut a thermocouple in half, re-twist the ends of the wires together, and it'll still work! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, the very small (millivolts) signal they generate is quite susceptible to electrical noise and circuit design. The signal voltage has to be greatly amplified to be useful. So it doesn't take much EMR from your heater or stepper wires to interfere with the TC reading. A frequent problem with TC circuits in 3d printers is the dreaded GROUND LOOP -- if the &quot;hot&quot; tip is electrically connected to the hot block, voltage and current on the heater and motor wires can induce small currents through the TC wires that totally screw up the millivolt signal. The amplifier picks up these stray voltages and it throws off the temp read. So, there are some important guidelines for keeping noise out of the TC wires:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The TC wires must be electrically insulated from the mounting hardware (eye lug, thermowell, whatever your extruder has). You can check this with a multimeter -- you want infinite / out of range resistance from the TC leads to the mounting tip and hot block. While you're at it, make sure your heater cartridge wires aren't shorting to the hot block -- that's unsafe and can also cause problems with TCs.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Keep the two TC wires close together, and not immediately parallel to noise sources like PWM-controlled heaters or stepper wiring. If you must run the TC in a bundle with the other wires, TWIST the heater/stepper wiring pairs. (For steppers, twist each coil pair to a different pitch if possible. You don't need to twist the separate coil pairs to each other.) &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another common issue with TC circuits is the COLD JUNCTION COMPENSATION. A thermocouple doesn't measure tip temperature, it measures the DIFFERENCE in temperature between the hot tip and the cold junction where the TC is connected to either the amp or copper wiring. The TC amp has an onboard thermistor that it uses to add the temp at the cold junction to the measured signal from the thermocouple. There are a few things you need to do to make sure the cold-junction compensation works properly:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You should run TC wire all the way from the &quot;hot&quot; tip to the TC amp. You CAN splice it and install plugs, but only with more type-K TC wire and proper type-K thermocouple plugs. These use the same metal as the TC wire so they don't generate undesired junction voltages that interfere with the TC signal. If you splice copper wire between the TC and the amp, any temp differences along the copper will not be measured! This is a particularly big problem if you splice to copper inside a warm enclosure and then run copper to an amp outside the enclosure.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The amp should not be super hot. The onboard thermistor is designed to accurately measure temperatures reasonably close to room temp, not hot-block temps. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There should not be large temperature gradients near the amp or between the TC wire termination and the actual amp chip. Place the amp far enough away from the hot end and other heat sources (like stepper motors) that it isn't experiencing weird temp profiles.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do the above, the TC will output a good signal, and the amp will read it properly. But there's one more hitch. The mainboard has to know how to understand the amp's output. 3D printer control boards that are designed exclusively for TCs, like Mightyboards, usually use digital communication between the amp and the main control chip (MCU). This is high-reliability and does not require any special firmware configuration -- support is baked in. But if you're strapping an external TC amp onto a board that is expecting thermistors, &lt;strong&gt;you will have to tell the firmware how to read the signal from the amp.&lt;/strong&gt; The most common technique is for the amp to output a linear voltage signal to the MCU's normal thermistor input (ADC). Then you configure the firmware to use the appropriate &quot;thermistor table&quot; (really a voltage lookup table) for that particular amp. Depending on your controller board, you also may need to make sure the regular thermistor pull-up/pull-down resistors aren't affecting the amp's output.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So you need to make sure:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You don't have electrical noise issues&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The cold-junction compensation is working as intended&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The firmware and controller board is configured correctly for your amp chip's output&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do all that, a TC should give superior accuracy and reliability over a thermistor. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="298" LastActivityDate="2016-01-20T16:40:01.790" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="356" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="239" CreationDate="2016-01-20T16:48:49.097" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;That's my picture :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I use a filament monitor with an encoder wheel that pauses the print if the filament stops moving (because a bulge got stuck, or filament ran out, or the hot end jammed, or whatever). I have a bunch of these on multiple printers: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.toybuilderlabs.com/products/tunell-3d-printer-filament-monitor&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.toybuilderlabs.com/products/tunell-3d-printer-filament-monitor&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Tunell monitor works with Sailfish, Marlin, and Smoothie to my knowledge. This particular one doesn't work with Repetier, but you can wire up a simple encoder wheel to use Repetier's filament monitor functionality.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Like other people have mentioned, you should avoid cheap filament, and return spools with bulges. I personally only see bulges like that maybe every 20 spools or less. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="298" LastActivityDate="2016-01-20T16:48:49.097" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="357" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="322" CreationDate="2016-01-20T17:12:46.547" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately, different firmwares and different slicers require different calibration techniques! There's a lot of software-specific advice out there, like printing a single-wall calibration box and measuring the wall thickness. That's a good technique for Slic3r, but not for Simplify3D. It can be very confusing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's the general outline of what you should do:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Rough calibration check&lt;/strong&gt; for printer steps/mm. Do the values in your firmware settings make sense for your linear motion hardware? For example, you can calculate what the theoretical values SHOULD be based on belt pitch and pulley tooth count. Print something moderately big (~100-200mm) and check if it's +/-1-2%. If it's off by more than that, your steps/mm is probably wrong.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Check for mechanical backlash&lt;/strong&gt; using a backlash-checking print like this one: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:252490&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:252490&lt;/a&gt; Tighten belts and perform other printer-specific tuning required to eliminate backlash. Backlash will throw off other calibration steps, so make sure there's no slop!&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Follow the recommended &lt;strong&gt;extrusion volume calibration&lt;/strong&gt; steps for your slicer. This starts with measuring your filament diameter with calipers and inputting that into your slicer. And then you will usually either &lt;em&gt;&quot;print a single-walled box and measure the thickness&quot;&lt;/em&gt; or &lt;em&gt;&quot;print a series of 100% infill calibration boxes and adjust the extrusion multiplier to the largest value that looks good without bulging.&quot;&lt;/em&gt; By measuring filament diameter and then adjusting an extrusion calibration setting in the slicer, you will be able to measure future filament and prints will come out right. Giving the slicer fake diameter values will force you to recalibrate every time the diameter changes. Note that you must redo this calibration for each FILAMENT MATERIAL and EXTRUDER DESIGN. Different material/extruder pairs will have different bite depths and effective drive diameter.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Precision calibration check&lt;/strong&gt; by printing a variety of object sizes and PLOTTING &quot;desired size&quot; as X and &quot;actual size&quot; as Y. Then find a linear fit equation, y=mx+b. (Do this separately for your printer's X, Y, and Z axes.) &lt;em&gt;The value &quot;m&quot; is your scale error.&lt;/em&gt; You can use your slicer object scaling to fix this. For example, ABS usually requires 100.3-101% scaling to account for shrinkage. If you have scale error with a low-shrinkage material like PLA, you can adjust your firmware's steps/mm value to compensate. &lt;em&gt;The value &quot;b&quot; is your fixed width error.&lt;/em&gt; Assuming you don't have backlash, this is usually caused by the small amount that molten plastic bulges out to the sides, or by extrusion volume calibration error. You can improve this by fine-tuning your extrusion volume. Many slicers also have &quot;horizontal/XY size compensation&quot; settings that you can use to shrink/expand the part by b/2 to correct the fixed width error. Any residual fixed-width error that you cannot correct with slicer settings should be added as a tolerance in your part models. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you follow these steps, you should get +/-0.1mm or better dimensional precision on your prints.*&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*Deltas not included. That's a whole other ball of wax. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="298" LastActivityDate="2016-01-20T17:12:46.547" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="358" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-20T18:40:21.680" Score="17" ViewCount="2753" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found a story about someone &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fablabamersfoort.nl/en/node/534&quot;&gt;3D-printing equipment for their Lego minifig&lt;/a&gt;, using an Ultimaker. (Article is in Dutch, but accompanied by photographs).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I noticed that what they made weren't the actual connecting bricks, but the tools used by the minifig. And that even so, some filing and a dremel were needed afterwards to make them fit properly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm told that to make something connect properly with real Lego, the machine needs to be tuned very precisely.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, what resolution is needed to print bricks that will connect with normal Lego bricks?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="65" LastActivityDate="2019-02-22T15:12:13.973" Title="Which resolution is needed for bricks compatible with Lego?" Tags="|resolution|bricks|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="359" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="358" CreationDate="2016-01-20T19:51:46.090" Score="18" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's really more about calibration than resolution -- a poorly calibrated printer will have dimension errors that prevent mating with true LEGO bricks or other printed bricks. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, &quot;resolution&quot; is an incredibly loaded term for 3d printers, because it can mean a lot of different things. But we don't need to get into that right now. There are really two big things to worry about: layer height and extrusion width.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Layer heights of 0.1mm or 0.2mm should be fine. Coarser layers may run into surface finish issues that make the bricks difficult to put together or take apart. There probably isn't much reason to go finer than 0.1mm for this application. Almost all FFF printers can do 0.1mm layer heights as long as it is reasonably well-tuned.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Any typical household FFF printer with a &quot;normal&quot; nozzle size can print fine enough for the bricks to work. It just needs to be tuned well.&lt;/strong&gt; The smallest &quot;must have&quot; feature in a standard lego brick is the 1.6mm thick wall around the sides. The typical minimum printable feature size for an FFF printer is 2x the extrusion width, because the slicer will place a path on the inside edge of the shape and the outside edge of the shape. (Some slicers will allow single-extrusion features, but this is not generally recommended because it makes weak parts.) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, how wide is the extrusion width? It's adjustable, and different slicers auto-recommend different values, but as a safe rule of thumb it needs to be between 1x and 2x your nozzle size. There are some volume calculation quirks in different slicers that may encourage larger or smaller sizes, so sometimes people recommend [extrusion width = nozzle size + layer height] particularly with Slic3r. This is very system-specific. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming you have the most common stock nozzle with a 0.4mm orifice, and also set the extrusion width to 0.4mm, the slicer should put four strands in the walls of the LEGO brick. That's good. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Where it gets tricky is if you have an extrusion width that does not evenly divide into 1.6mm. Say you are printing with an extrusion width of 0.6mm. There is enough room in the wall of the part to place two full 0.6mm perimeter strands... but then a gap 0.4mm wide will be left in the center. You can't put another 0.6mm strand into that 0.4mm gap. Different slicers handle this different ways. Some will leave an empty space between the walls, and you get a very weak print. Some will mash an excessive amount of plastic into the gap, causing poor print quality as excess material builds up more and more on each layer. Some will push a smaller-than-commanded strand to try to properly fill the volume. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, the general advice with small features is to make sure your extrusion width goes into the part's minimum thickness a reasonable number of times.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;[Feature size / extrusion width &amp;lt; 2] is BAD  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;[Feature size / extrusion width = 2] is GOOD &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;[2 &amp;lt; Feature size / extrusion width &amp;lt; 3] is BAD &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;[Feature size / extrusion width &gt; 3] is GOOD&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although these will vary somewhat by slicer -- older slicers like Skeinforge tend to have more issues with this than newer slicers. What you should do in practice is check your slicer's print previewer to see whether it is leaving a gap between the strands. Then adjust extrusion width and perimeter/shell count to try to get an intelligent output. There's some trial and error involved.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="298" LastActivityDate="2016-01-20T19:51:46.090" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="360" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="303" CreationDate="2016-01-20T20:50:13.350" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;The first big space-specific issue is actually air quality. You can't just open a window to air out the molten-ABS smell from the ISS! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;FFF printers put out fumes and nanoparticles. In a space station, the same air gets recycled over and over, and the air purification systems have a specific set of contaminants that they are optimized for, as well as a design capacity for air turnover and chemical removal rates that won't be adjusted just because somebody's printing a space-ratchet today. Protecting cabin air quality is a huge design factor for any experiment that goes into space.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Made in Space printing experiments on the ISS to date were performed in one of the vacuum experiment chambers, so any unfiltered fumes (or fire flare-ups) could be vented directly to space if required. In the long run, this isn't going to work -- other experiments may need the vacuum chamber, or &quot;production&quot; printers may be too large to fit. So the printer needs to have its own internal air purification system. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another MAJOR design constraint is launch survival. Rocket payloads must be designed for extreme g-forces without 1) damage, or 2) significant internal shifting of mass which would affect the payload center of gravity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Total payload weight is also quite important here: lifting mass to low Earth orbit is EXPENSIVE. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Surprisingly, the microgravity environment itself isn't that big of a deal. Molten plastic is highly viscous and pretty much stays where you put it long enough to solidify, as long as it's sticking to something. But two impacts do come to mind. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;First, an unsecured filament spool will try to unwind itself. Gravity won't provide the contact friction we usually rely on to keep spools from bird's-nesting. (Think about it: a tightly-wound spool is literally a giant coil-spring.) &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Second, heat flows are different in microgravity -- you can't rely on passive convection to cool the print or the motors. Accommodations must be made for sufficient forced airflow and heat-sinking on anything that requires cooling. And that includes the enclosure itself, since, as mentioned above, the print chamber must be sealed up tight for air quality control. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, reliability is critical. Amazon doesn't deliver to the ISS (yet). Even a single stripped screw may take the printer out of commission for months until a replacement part can be fit into an upcoming supply launch. Having the printer catch on fire because something shorted would be catastrophic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, really, it's all about making a printer robust enough to make it up there, operate safely, and never break. Printing upside-down is trivial in comparison. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="298" LastActivityDate="2016-01-20T20:50:13.350" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="361" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="362" CreationDate="2016-01-21T00:22:14.333" Score="23" ViewCount="13775" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was just shopping for filament, and saw some glowing claims about PETG being as easy to work with as PLA, but as strong as ABS, and less brittle. Anyone know if that's actually true, or what the tradeoffs are?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastEditorUserId="98" LastEditDate="2016-06-09T02:12:33.307" LastActivityDate="2017-05-13T23:10:12.273" Title="Advantages of PETG filament?" Tags="|filament|material|print-material|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="362" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="361" CreationDate="2016-01-21T01:04:35.727" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;PETG is great stuff to work with. It is stronger than ABS also. It prints slower than ABS and PLA. The formulas vary quite a bit from vendor to vendor. I have used 3 brands, and each of their properties vary. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From my experience you do have to be careful with moisture. You'll be able to tell you have moisture in your filament if you start hearing a slight hissing and popping and an increased number of structural zits on the object. Moisture will also increase the problem listed in Mark's post below regarding the accumulation of filament on the nozzle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="303" LastEditorUserId="115" LastEditDate="2016-01-22T08:00:21.807" LastActivityDate="2016-01-22T08:00:21.807" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="363" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="352" CreationDate="2016-01-21T04:38:42.443" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;No, do not use this fuse.&lt;/strong&gt; The current rating is too high to be reasonable for your printer. It will &quot;work&quot; in the sense that your printer will get power, but it won't provide anywhere near as much protection as a lower-rated fuse. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;10A is a lot of current for mains voltage. Depending on what else you have plugged in, there is a fair chance your home's 15A breaker will trip before this fuse does, which kind of defeats the point of having it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even for &quot;fast&quot; fuses, it takes a significant amount of time for them to blow when conducting their rated current. The internal fusible link has to heat up and melt before the fuse stops conducting. The less the overload current exceeds the rating, the longer that takes. A 10A fuse conducting a 10.5A short might take 30 seconds to trip. In the meantime, your printer is melting. Lower-rated fuses will trip faster for the same short and thus provide better protection. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;You need to size fuses as small as possible for the required current draw if you want to have any hope of rapidly cutting off an excessive-current event.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would recommend a 4A fuse in the USA for this 350w power supply. (Note: the listing title says 360 but the photos show 350.) I use 4A fuses in several printers with 120v / 350w PSUs and they do not trip. But you can do the math for yourself:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;350 watts / 120 volts / 80% efficiency = 3.64A&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The smallest fuse you can find that is larger than this value is what you should use. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, we can argue over whether 80% is the right efficiency value... it could be lower. The PSU label says 6.5A input is required, but that amount of current draw implies either a &amp;lt;50% efficiency (which is quite poor for this kind of PSU) or would only occur for abuse/surge scenarios like starting very large motors. Such short-lived inrush events generally won't trip a fuse unless you do something dumb like lock the rotor. And none of that applies to the small microstepping-driver stepper motor systems we're working with here. This PSU should not draw more than 4A in normal 3D printer use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looking at this on the other end -- how much damage will 10A do versus 4A? Lots. If the short is in the 12v system, and the PSU's short protection doesn't trip in (because it's a cheap knock-off) you would roughly multiply the AC fuse current times 10 to get the DC current. And 40A is a downright scary amount of current! Depending on wire gauge, putting 40A through heatbed wiring may make it smell and smoke. Whereas putting 100A through heatbed wiring will almost certainly start a fire. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You're much safer with a 4A or even 6A fuse for this PSU than a 10A fuse. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="298" LastActivityDate="2016-01-21T04:38:42.443" CommentCount="12" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="364" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="361" CreationDate="2016-01-21T07:05:42.710" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;In addition to what @AsaDeDeBuck said, PETG is also more flexible than PLA, and less stinky than ABS. Furthermore, some PETG variants like to accumulate on the nozzle (particulate build up) and then char a bit before being deposited at some random spot on the object.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="305" LastEditorUserId="115" LastEditDate="2016-01-22T17:32:58.063" LastActivityDate="2016-01-22T17:32:58.063" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="365" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="368" CreationDate="2016-01-21T21:25:07.313" Score="12" ViewCount="5379" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stereolithography&quot;&gt;Stereolithography&lt;/a&gt; produces parts by projecting ultraviolet light on the top of a vat of liquid photopolymer, causing it to harden.  &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Continuous_Liquid_Interface_Production&quot;&gt;CLIP&lt;/a&gt; produces parts by projecting ultraviolet light through the bottom of a vat of liquid photopolymer, causing it to harden.  This seems like a minor difference, yet CLIP is reportedly much faster (I've seen numbers as high as 100x).  Why is this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="48" LastActivityDate="2017-01-09T00:57:12.920" Title="Why is CLIP so much faster than SLA?" Tags="|clip|sla|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="366" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="341" CreationDate="2016-01-21T21:41:06.297" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Monoprice Architect is is a bare-bones FlashForge Creator that has been re-badged for Monoprice. The Creator line is a very popular set of printers, so there is lots of good advice out there. The FlashForge Google Group is a good community to join: &lt;a href=&quot;https://groups.google.com/forum/#!forum/flashforge&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://groups.google.com/forum/#!forum/flashforge&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The entire FF Creator line, in turn, is cloned from the original Makerbot Replicator 1. So you can use Makerbot slicing profiles for the Replicator 1. Just keep in mind that Makerbot does not generally test new software revs with their older printers, and DEFINITELY does not test new software revs with competitor knock-offs. Sometimes they appear to break functionality for non-Makerbot machines on purpose. So recent versions of Makerbot Desktop may not &quot;play nice&quot; with your FlashForge. &lt;strong&gt;The most recent &quot;known good&quot; free slicer you should use with this printer is Makerware 2.4.x. You can find links by searching the FF Google Group.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On that note, you may have received instructions to use ReplicatorG with your printer. But RepG is abandonware: development stopped years ago. It should only be used for firmware updates, not as a slicer. You should also only use the most recent version posted on the Sailfish page on Thingiverse: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:32084&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:32084&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using older versions of RepG with newer firmware revs will corrupt your EEPROM! Only use the version downloaded from the link above. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The firmware that comes with the printer is FlashForge's slightly-customized build of either Sailfish or Makerbot's Replicator 1/2/2x firmware. But here's the trick: Makerbot's Rep1/2/2x firmware is just an old, out-of-date, slightly customized version of Sailfish. Makerbot stopped keeping up with bug-fixes and feature additions a long time ago. &lt;strong&gt;Everything is Sailfish:&lt;/strong&gt; just different versions. You should use the most recent official release version listed at:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sailfishfirmware.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.sailfishfirmware.com/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Follow the instructions in the Sailfish manual from the link above, and RepG will automatically pull the right builds from the official mirror and populate a list of printer options to choose. The trick here is which build to download. As of 1-21-16, there is not an official Monoprice Architect build yet. Which would mean editing a machine xml profile to avoid the firmware throwing warnings. I STRONGLY recommend getting used to the printer using factory firmware before trying to fight with custom machine profiles... But here is the basic process to pick a Sailfish firmware build when you're ready:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First: which Atmega processor version do you have? The large chip in the middle of the control board will either say 1280 or 2560. You need to know which version you have. Bad things happen if you load the wrong version.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second: What is the tooth count on the X and Y drivetrain pulleys? To my knowledge, FF always uses 17-tooth pulleys, which matches the Replicator 1 and FF Creator profiles. The Rep2 and 2x use 18t pulleys, so only use those builds if you have those pulleys. People often mess this up and their prints end up with dimensions ~5% off in X and Y. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Third: The Architect has one extruder and no heatbed, so firmware builds that expect those to be connected (Rep 1 Dual, Creator, etc) will throw errors if loaded. You can fix this from the LCD screen or RepG, but that's a whole separate question. Do some printing and learn about the printer before attempting any firmware update so you'll know what to do if you pick a build with the wrong parts. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fourth: This one is just for the sake of completeness. Some FF models were shipped with off-spec heatbeds that require special firmware builds to prevent drawing too much current and overheating / overloading the power supply. The Architect doesn't have that, but firmware builds for those printer models (eg I believe the FF Creator 2560) will under-power regular heatbeds. This is just something you need to know with the Architect if you decide to install a heatbed later. But it's a really critical safety warning for people with those off-spec heatbeds. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this all seems complicated, that's because FlashForge (and in turn Monoprice) relies heavily on the open source Sailfish project to maintain the software ecosystem behind this line of printers. FlashForge has some internal builds that they use for flashing new bots, but these are not kept particularly up-to-date. Nor does FlashForge release the source files, so it's quite opaque where exactly the stock firmware differs from mainstream Sailfish. In the long run, you should install mainline Sailfish. But it's ok to stick with the factory firmware until you get used to the printer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To summarize: Because there is not an existing Sailfish build, you're going to need to do some investigating and some experimenting to figure out which build will work. Don't try that until you're familiar with the printer. Post on the FlashForge Google Group when you're ready for help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="298" LastEditorUserId="298" LastEditDate="2016-01-21T23:10:07.013" LastActivityDate="2016-01-21T23:10:07.013" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="368" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="365" CreationDate="2016-01-21T22:16:38.140" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's important to understand what specifically is being compared. &lt;strong&gt;CLIP is much faster than bottom-up technologies that require a peel step between every layer.&lt;/strong&gt; For example, the Form1 galvo SLA printer tilts the resin vat to separate the transparent bottom from the print. That is, by far, the slowest part of SLA/DLP printing with most modern light sources. Where the speed comes in is that without a peel, a continuous &quot;movie&quot; can be used to cure the resin rather than a series of alternating images and peels. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Top-down printers can print dramatically faster than bottom-up-and-peel printers. CLIP is not necessarily faster than top-down. For example, the Gizmo 3D line of top-down printers are very similar in print speed to CLIP. (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.gizmo3dprinters.com.au/&quot;&gt;http://www.gizmo3dprinters.com.au/&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most &quot;consumer&quot; SLA printers these days use bottom-up-and-peel techniques, because this has some practical advantages over top-down printers:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Way less resin is required to fill the printer when the part is pulled out as it builds rather than being lowered into the tank (along with the Z stage) as it builds. Resin is expensive. This also means bottom up printers can be smaller and have fewer mechanical parts such as leveling devices submerged in resin. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Standard resins contain an inhibitor chemical that prevents polymerization in the presence of oxygen, which causes the surface layer exposed to air (and low-level stray light) to not cure. So top-down printers must shoot light through a non-curing layer before reaching curable resin. This makes the tuning more sensitive and can somewhat reduce detail compared to a bottom-up printer curing right on the window.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Replacement vats or windows for bottom-up printers may be seen by manufacturers as a profit-generating consumable, since they have to be replaced somewhat frequently.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Top-down printers have to worry somewhat more about resin flow rates as the part is lowered. Air bubbles may be pulled into the resin or the fresh resin layer above the part may vary significantly in thickness if the part is submerged too fast for the resin viscosity. (Admittedly, bottom-up printers will experience excessive suction forces and potentially break off bits of the print at high peel speeds.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;CLIP is a bottom-up technique that doesn't require a peel step, because the vat creates an oxygen layer over the window that keeps the resin from curing directly on the surface and sticking. In that way, it arguably performs more like a top-down printer than a bottom-up printer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Top-down printers that are designed to overcome the above issues and use high-intensity light sources can achieve exceptionally high print speeds. This includes similar &quot;continuous&quot; build techniques used as in CLIP.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="298" LastActivityDate="2016-01-21T22:16:38.140" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="369" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-21T23:09:21.300" Score="8" ViewCount="3444" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Cura, I can edit my .ini profile settings as needed, for example, when I change filament or models. It's annoying to have to edit the profile on another computer and update it on my Pi just to change the infill, etc. I've searched &lt;a href=&quot;http://plugins.octoprint.org/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://plugins.octoprint.org/&lt;/a&gt; and can't find any plugins that do this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="96" LastEditorUserId="53" LastEditDate="2016-01-22T10:00:10.927" LastActivityDate="2016-07-29T23:47:43.090" Title="How to edit Cura profile in Octoprint?" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|octoprint|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="370" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="341" CreationDate="2016-01-21T23:24:20.753" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since the printer has no heater, I'd advise some sleuthing&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Look at the motherboard.  Find the big black square chip and see if it is a ATmega 1280 or 2560.  Likely it's a 1280, but you never know.  This will impact which firmware build you use.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you will eventually add a heater PCB, then figure out the size (wattage) of the power supply.  It may be big enough now for a heated platform, or maybe not.  I guess you can cross that bridge if/when you add a HBP (heated build platform).  However, it can make a difference as to which firmware build you load as some builds of Sailfish will intentionally serialize heating so as to not put too high of a load on the power supply (PSU).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Armed with the above info, you can then decide if you want a 1280 or 2560 build of Sailfish.  And if you want a build which will serialize eventual use of an HBP or not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Serialized: MakerBot Replicator 1 Single &amp;amp; Dual (implied ATmega 1280), MakerBot Replicator 1 with ATmega 2560&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Non-serialized: FlashForge Creator I, II &amp;amp; X (implied ATmega 1280)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a non-serialized, 2560 build know that the FlashForge one is for a poorly behaved heater PCB and you likely won't want it.  That sort of leaves you without a good, non-serialized choice.  In a pinch you can use the ZYYX 3D build for a 2560.  Or you can contact the Sailfish team directly: speaking with very certain knowledge, I can assure you that they'd be happy to do a targetted build for your machine.  However, at present they lack info to do so (e.g., build volume, distances from endstops to center of build platform, etc.).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="304" LastActivityDate="2016-01-21T23:24:20.753" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="371" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="387" CreationDate="2016-01-22T03:53:15.250" Score="22" ViewCount="29289" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://e3d-online.com/blogs/news/are-abrasives-killing-your-nozzle&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;E3D-Online&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://makezine.com/2015/09/11/carbon-fiber-filament-ruins-nozzles/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Make Magazine&lt;/a&gt; have written about the potential damage printing carbon fiber and glow-in-the-dark filaments can do to your printer's nozzle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I can't seem to find is what clues or warning signs to be on the lookout for if your nozzle has taken a significant amount of wear. I've printed a few hundred grams of glow filament personally and have not noticed any change in print quality.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;E3D says you may have &amp;quot;unpredictable, erratic printing&amp;quot; with a worn nozzle. Can anyone explain or provide examples of this and when a replacement is necessary?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="56" LastEditorUserId="36802" LastEditDate="2023-12-25T17:50:46.833" LastActivityDate="2023-12-25T17:50:46.833" Title="How to identify nozzle wear?" Tags="|maintenance|carbon|nozzle|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="372" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="377" CreationDate="2016-01-22T06:03:58.597" Score="7" ViewCount="306" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been reading and experimenting with Acetone vapour smoothing on some printed ABS parts. My problem is that I need to selectively smoothen the printed parts which vapor smoothing doesn't allow. In particular, the cogs, whose sides I was trying to make smooth ended, up with smooth rounded tips, which was a disappointment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An example of what I was trying to smoothen is would be something like this: &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wrKpe.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wrKpe.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;example cog&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So how can I maintain fine details (like the cog tips in the image above) while applying smoothing methods to printed parts? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="150" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2018-09-16T12:34:02.673" LastActivityDate="2018-09-16T12:34:02.673" Title="Maintaining fine details while applying smoothing methods" Tags="|abs|post-processing|smoothing|vapor-smoothing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="373" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-01-22T06:05:40.583" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Having a surface free from irregularities, roughness, or projections.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="150" LastEditorUserId="150" LastEditDate="2016-01-26T13:15:41.533" LastActivityDate="2016-01-26T13:15:41.533" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="374" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-01-22T06:05:40.583" Score="0" Body="Having a surface free from irregularities, roughness, or projections." OwnerUserId="150" LastEditorUserId="150" LastEditDate="2016-01-26T13:15:29.920" LastActivityDate="2016-01-26T13:15:29.920" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="375" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-01-22T06:06:16.450" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Having a surface free from irregularities, roughness, or projections using a process involving the vapor form of a solvent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="150" LastEditorUserId="150" LastEditDate="2016-01-26T13:15:16.447" LastActivityDate="2016-01-26T13:15:16.447" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="376" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-01-22T06:06:16.450" Score="0" Body="Having a surface free from irregularities, roughness, or projections using a process involving the vapor form of a solvent." OwnerUserId="150" LastEditorUserId="150" LastEditDate="2016-01-26T21:11:59.627" LastActivityDate="2016-01-26T21:11:59.627" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="377" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="372" CreationDate="2016-01-22T08:00:15.240" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;A technique I've used in the past is to make a acetone slurry of the same filament used to print your object, and carefully paint the details you need to smooth.  You must be careful and only do a very thin coat or you may damage your print. You can add extra coat if needed to make sure the acetone has evaporatored from the previous coat of ABS filaments slurry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="303" LastEditorUserId="168" LastEditDate="2016-01-25T20:03:25.620" LastActivityDate="2016-01-25T20:03:25.620" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="378" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="369" CreationDate="2016-01-22T09:59:43.737" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;As far as I know, this is currently not possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="53" LastActivityDate="2016-01-22T09:59:43.737" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="380" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-23T04:38:20.710" Score="17" ViewCount="24825" Body="&lt;p&gt;I need to do some post processing of my 3D-printed models that includes adding some holes. For each of PLA, ABS, PETG and other 3D-printing materials:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In what ways is drilling a hole in a model made from that material like or unlike drilling wood? Is it worth getting special &quot;plastic drilling bits&quot; that cost tons of money or can I use regular high speed drill bits? Do these plastics have grain that they will split on when drilled into, and if so, what are ways to avoid such splitting? Are higher speeds better, or lower speeds, or should I only use a finger-twirled bit holder?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are some 3D-printing materials easier to drill than others?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What other methods also work for creating a hole in the different types of plastics?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="265" LastEditorUserId="5567" LastEditDate="2017-04-06T00:17:53.580" LastActivityDate="2020-06-15T16:04:26.253" Title="Drilling 3D-printed plastic" Tags="|post-processing|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="381" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="380" CreationDate="2016-01-23T05:11:31.060" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;I wouldn't recommend drilling a hole in a 3D printed part in a traditional sense like with wood. Instead, I would merely ream a 3D printed part.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've done this quite a bit where I'll print my holes at a slightly smaller than nominal size and use a standard carbide drill to ream the hole.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Things to consider:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Printing the holes smaller than nominal will ensure your hole is not printed larger than nominal&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Printing with a higher shell will ensure you can remove the material without exposing the infill&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that drilling directly into (or thru) an infill area of the part could lead to cracking of the part later, depending on the hole's functionality. In general, a printed hole (even if reamed) will be significantly stronger than one drilled through an infill area.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="98" LastEditorUserId="48" LastEditDate="2016-01-24T02:11:21.737" LastActivityDate="2016-01-24T02:11:21.737" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="382" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="380" CreationDate="2016-01-24T00:46:42.203" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;Have to get this out of the way... Can you just print the hole into the part instead of drilling? That's usually best, when possible. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you need to drill, you'll definitely want to print an undersized hole and then ream it out with the drill. This both provides alignment for the drill and adds extra plastic around the region you'll be weakening. If you don't know where the hole needs to go in advance, fill the model with a hex pattern of tiny holes in the general region of the future drilling. This is an easy way to strengthen the area with more plastic without making the entire part solid. (Using a slicer that allows localized print settings will also work.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The hole should be aligned more or less vertical or &quot;across the grain&quot; (+/-45 degrees aligned with the Z axis) to ensure there are nice, strong hoops of plastic around the hole to keep it from splitting. Drilling into a printed part (particularly PLA) from the side / parallel to the XY plane is highly likely to split it. It may even be ok at first but crack later under load or due to creep. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regular wood drill bits work ok, but you need to go slow and take nibbles, leaving the plastic time to cool so it doesn't melt and stick to the bit. (Coolant is an option.) Use a pilot hole, piloted bit, or step drill to remove less plastic per pass. A really sharp bit will perform dramatically better than a dull bit. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Put something hard and drillable like wood behind the plastic part to help avoid breakage and bit-jamming when you break through the opposite side. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="298" LastActivityDate="2016-01-24T00:46:42.203" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="383" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="385" CreationDate="2016-01-24T12:34:09.723" Score="19" ViewCount="2628" Body="&lt;p&gt;On one of the nozzles on my printer, the filament comes out at a 45 degree angle.  It seems that this causes problems with adhesion to the bed and overall quality.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What caused this problem? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How do I fix it? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How do I prevent it from&#xA;happening in the future?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="43" LastEditorUserId="1" LastEditDate="2016-02-08T14:14:44.423" LastActivityDate="2016-02-08T17:52:26.233" Title="Filament extrudes at an angle" Tags="|maintenance|extruder|extrusion|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="384" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="383" CreationDate="2016-01-24T18:52:06.070" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're extruding into the air, it's actually quite normal for the filament to come out in seemingly random directions. This shouldn't cause problems because the filament should always be getting squished onto the bed/layer underneath (or during bridging, getting stretched). The way the filament comes out in free air doesn't reflect how it behaves during printing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are experiencing troubles then perhaps the nozzle is clogged with a small piece of debris (or, unlikely) the nozzle is actually damaged. There's little you can do to prevent that apart from using high quality filament and being careful not to damage the nozzle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastActivityDate="2016-01-24T18:52:06.070" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="385" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="383" CreationDate="2016-01-24T19:49:52.140" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've personally had this happen when I had a minor clog in my nozzle. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My first steps to fix this would be:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Make sure the exterior of your nozzle is clean. I've had bits of plastic pull at the extruding filament and change it's direction.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Attempt a &quot;cold pull&quot; or &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/10-the&quot;&gt;atomic pull&lt;/a&gt;&quot;. On my Replicator 2 I do this by removing the extruder motor, heating up the hot end, manually pushing a length of filament through the nozzle, letting it cool slightly and tugging the filament (and hopefully the clog) out of the nozzle.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="56" LastActivityDate="2016-01-24T19:49:52.140" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="386" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="447" CreationDate="2016-01-25T01:51:24.097" Score="14" ViewCount="1188" Body="&lt;p&gt;I&quot;m considering making my own filament, with a device like the one at &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:380987&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:380987&lt;/a&gt;. Partly because it's another machine to build, which is cool, but also to save money on filament.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has anyone here tried to make their own filament? My main questions are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Is the quality comparable to typical off-the-shelf filaments? Put another way, with reasonable tuning can one produce filament that's good enough to use without a lot of frustration?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Does it require a lot of attention to tuning, monitoring, or other details (which make it less worthwhile / more time-consuming)? Warning of pitfalls to avoid is also welcome.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Are there useful things one can do this way, that are hard to achieve with off-the-shelf filaments? For example, unusual materials; better control of diameter, density, etc; or mixing one's own colors?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-09-14T08:41:36.043" LastActivityDate="2019-04-11T14:17:35.767" Title="Making your own filament" Tags="|filament|recycling|filament-production|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="387" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="371" CreationDate="2016-01-25T09:56:47.867" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;I believe the little experiment made by E3D - the same link you provide - answers your question very well. Several points about wear can be found in this article. After printing only 250 grams of ColorFabb XT-CF20 (carbon fiber filament):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The nozzle diameter had increased markedly&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The inner walls of the orifice (opening) showed deep sharp ridges and grooves&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The tip of the nozzle had become critically rounded, and shortened&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All of these symptoms were found repeatedly for standard brass nozzles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In particular, I believe the last of these symptoms may be the one most easily identifiable without accurate measuring equipment (and without observing print quality).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With regards to reduction in print quality, these symptoms could be simulated by:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Setting the nozzle diameter too big in your slicer&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Leveling your bed too high (the rounded tip will also reduce the length of the tip)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Printing with a partial clog that interruptus normal filament flow (due to the grooves and ridges)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Exactly what this will look like on your printed part is hard to predict, but I would assume you could see blobs, under-extrusion, poor layer adhesion, as well as an irregular surface finish of your top layers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="115" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-08-28T12:33:37.610" LastActivityDate="2019-08-28T12:33:37.610" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="388" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1475" CreationDate="2016-01-25T12:37:40.963" Score="7" ViewCount="197" Body="&lt;p&gt;When installing and using a new hotend for the first time, which steps of action should be taken before. This will probably be more applicable to chinese clones than to authentic products (is the statement true?): &lt;strong&gt;Should a certain cleaning procedure be carried out&lt;/strong&gt; (removing swarf/shavings for example)? &lt;strong&gt;Should mechanical precision be controlled and if necessary improved&lt;/strong&gt; (de-edging and nozzle size are two things I could think of)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know the topic &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/233/how-should-i-clean-my-extruder-when-changing-materials&quot;&gt;How should I clean my extruder when changing materials?&lt;/a&gt;, which is a nice addon read, but I am concerned about brand-new extruders.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="168" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T13:00:58.447" LastActivityDate="2016-07-04T07:10:44.833" Title="Taking a new hotend into operation (cleaning, forming, etc)" Tags="|hotend|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="389" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="392" CreationDate="2016-01-25T14:01:51.620" Score="4" ViewCount="311" Body="&lt;p&gt;What are the specifications of the three wires inside a PC cable that is used to connect the switching power supply to a US AC outlet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The positive, negative and ground appear to be the same gauge stranded cable, and I've heard that it can handle 10A, but beyond that I don't really know what the rest of the specifications for the wire are.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastEditorUserId="10" LastEditDate="2016-01-25T20:03:22.693" LastActivityDate="2016-01-25T21:19:49.593" Title="In the standard PC Cable Wire that goes from the wall outlet to the switching power supply, are they standard and what are the wire specifications?" Tags="|switching-power-supply|wiring|printer-building|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="390" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-01-25T14:08:52.123" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Questions about building your own printer, either from scratch, from a commercially available kit, or printer part modifications.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2019-05-29T21:14:03.503" LastActivityDate="2019-05-29T21:14:03.503" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="391" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-01-25T14:08:52.123" Score="0" Body="Questions about building your own printer." OwnerUserId="37" LastEditorUserId="37" LastEditDate="2016-01-26T21:11:45.843" LastActivityDate="2016-01-26T21:11:45.843" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="392" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="389" CreationDate="2016-01-25T21:10:07.990" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Very&lt;/em&gt; basically speaking, electricity works like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There's some source that delivers a certain &lt;strong&gt;voltage&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You have a device that operates at a certain voltage. &lt;strong&gt;The device voltage and supply voltage should always match.&lt;/strong&gt; No, don't put that 120V US device in a 230V outlet in Europe.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The device does something. By doing something it draws &lt;strong&gt;current&lt;/strong&gt;. Most devices also draw some current when not doing anything.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How much power your device draws is the product of these two values:&lt;code&gt;voltage x current = power&lt;/code&gt; &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So far, so good. In your case:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;US AC outlet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;the &lt;strong&gt;voltage is 120V&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;On &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/q/352/10&quot;&gt;this other question of yours&lt;/a&gt; you linked to &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B007KG0ZYI&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this power&#xA;supply on amazon&lt;/a&gt;. Besides being available gift-wrapped, it&#xA;states the following feature:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;You can choose the input voltage (110V/240V) by switch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;110V ≈ 120V, which means the &lt;strong&gt;device voltage matches your supply&#xA;voltage&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The supply can deliver 30A at 12V on the DC side which means 360W.&#xA;If it could transform the electricity ideally, without any&#xA;inefficiency, that would be &lt;strong&gt;3A&lt;/strong&gt; at 120V on the AC side. But your&#xA;supply is unlikely ideal. &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Switched-mode_power_supply#SMPS_and_linear_power_supply_comparison&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Wikipedia suggests 60-95% efficiency&lt;/a&gt;.&#xA;Let's be super pessimistic and assume 50%. That means half the power&#xA;that goes into the switch power supply is turned into heat. In order&#xA;to still get the 360W out, you have to insert 720W. That means&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;your device draws 6A&lt;/strong&gt; on the AC side.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What does this all mean for your wire?&#xA;What wire size do you need for this supply?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Coincidentally, the above link to the amazon website showing your power supply also suggests the following PC ATX power supplies to me:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B00SN6VN7W&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Sentey Power Supply 725 Watt&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B00I3IXEBI&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Sentey Power Supply 1000 Watt&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's get this straight: You can buy a power supply for a PC and plug it into your outlet without even thinking about what a wire size is. You'd just plug and play. &lt;strong&gt;That PC power supply will potentially draw more current&lt;/strong&gt; than &lt;strong&gt;the power supply of your 3D printer&lt;/strong&gt;. A standard wire would be able to supply either one of the PC ATX power supplies linked above and would not have a problem delivering a lower current to the power supply of your 3D printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The switching supply doesn't have a plug like a PC ATX supply, but that on its own doesn't make it any less secure (if wired up properly). It's just less common for household appliances.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Ultimately, I'd like to avoid a fire, or damage to the house wiring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's a good and valid concern. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PC Power supplies deliver 12V and supply more than enough current (like the examples above). They are probably in use in your house already and did neither set it on fire nor damage the house wiring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A switching mode power supply is just as secure and if bought from a known brand unlikely to do you any harm either if used properly and within its specifications.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Ultimately&lt;/strong&gt;, this is not a question of secure electricity but a trade-off between secure electricity and the price to pay for it. The standard wire and it's specifications have little to do with this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally, I also use a cheap switching power supply made in china for my printer. It's very noisy and I pull the plug when I leave it unattended.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T13:00:58.447" LastActivityDate="2016-01-25T21:10:07.990" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="393" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="389" CreationDate="2016-01-25T21:19:49.593" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's somewhat unclear what you mean by &quot;standard PC cable&quot;, but virtually all desktop computers use &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/IEC_60320#C13.2FC14_coupler&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;IEC C14 sockets/IEC C13 plugs&lt;/a&gt;. Such connectors/sockets are rated for 10A 250V and thus you can safely assume that the cord itself will also be able to handle this voltage and current. 10A is what is specified by the IEC, certain North American standards agencies rate C13 cords for up to 15A.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The IEC standard also specifies that the conductors inside of a C13 lead have a cross sectional area of at least 0.75mm^2 and at least 1mm^2 if the cord is longer than 2m.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastActivityDate="2016-01-25T21:19:49.593" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="394" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="396" CreationDate="2016-01-26T05:38:44.720" Score="9" ViewCount="167" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I need to test out some of the components of a RAMPS 1.4 based 3D Printer, can I only plug some of them into the board (not all of them) and test them out?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd like to test out the NEMA 17 motors without testing the heated bed or extruder.  Is this safe and why?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastActivityDate="2016-01-26T15:09:15.330" Title="When building a RAMPS 1.4 based printer, can I safely plugin just some of the components to test if they are working?" Tags="|ramps-1.4|prusa-i3-rework|printer-building|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="395" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="394" CreationDate="2016-01-26T06:28:38.000" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, you can. By leaving components unplugged you would simply have some pins powered that are not in use. But even with all your components plugged in, you would still have some unused, powered pins on your board, so I wouldn't think too hard about that. In some cases it might be needed to mount e.i. fans to cool your electronics while running, but for testing a few stepper motors, you will be just fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Exactly how you would address each individual motor depends on your setup, however. My best bet would be to simply rely on your &quot;default&quot; firmware (such as Marlin), and then run commands for testing through Pronterface/PrintRun or similar. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively, you could upload your own sketch/firmware to the Arduino, and manipulate each stepper driver individually. This is a somewhat more advanced option, though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="115" LastActivityDate="2016-01-26T06:28:38.000" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="396" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="394" CreationDate="2016-01-26T06:28:59.720" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;If by components you mean motors, fans, or heated bed, then yes. This is even suggested in the &lt;a href=&quot;http://reprap.org/wiki/RAMPS_1.4#Final_Setup&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Final Setup&lt;/a&gt; instructions on the RAMPS wiki.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If you think you may have mistakes (in your setup) you can install only one stepper driver during initial testing and risk only one stepper driver.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are also printers using RAMPS with no heated bed and other machines that have no extruder at all. Furthermore, from an electronics perspective: if nothing is connected across a terminal no current will flow and therefore there is no damage that can be done. Obviously if you short out the unused connections there will be problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="66" LastEditorUserId="115" LastEditDate="2016-01-26T11:14:30.283" LastActivityDate="2016-01-26T11:14:30.283" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="397" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-26T10:28:13.417" Score="2" ViewCount="1455" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am working on a Python code (below) that accelerates a stepper motor until it reaches a specific amount of steps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;for s in range (steps):&#xA;if s &amp;lt; accelerationsteps:&#xA;    lateststep = self.onestep(direction, stepstyle)&#xA;    time.sleep(s_per_s)&#xA;    s_per_s = s_per_s - ((astart - aend) / accelerationsteps)&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;s_per_s = time in between each step&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;astart = starting speed in second/step (for example 0.5)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;aend = speed at which the acceleration should stop (for example 0.05)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;accelerationsteps = amount of steps over which the acceleration should happen&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem is that the velocity increases in &lt;strong&gt;step per second per step&lt;/strong&gt; instead of &lt;strong&gt;step per second per second&lt;/strong&gt;, and is therefore increased exponentially instead of linear. I have found &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.atmel.com/images/doc8017.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot; title=&quot;article&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; article that explains in mathematical terms how one can achieve a linear increase with a stepper motor but I have not managed to translate that into my python code.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would highly appreciate it if someone could help me with this and I think it would be very useful for people using steppers on the Raspberry Pi in general (I have only found a solution for the Arduino &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.airspayce.com/mikem/arduino/AccelStepper/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot; title=&quot;Accelstepper&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you very much in advance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="327" LastEditorUserId="115" LastEditDate="2016-01-26T11:13:10.053" LastActivityDate="2016-01-26T11:13:10.053" Title="Stepper Motor Linear Acceleration Python (raspberry pi)" Tags="|stepper|motor|acceleration|python|raspberry-pi|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="6" ClosedDate="2016-01-26T21:12:58.770" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="398" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="361" CreationDate="2016-01-26T12:58:34.467" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have never used ABS, because I have a young child at home and no ventilation system (just to be safe). I have however used PETG, a crystal clear brand competitively priced on AMA-ssive online retailer, I loved it and will probably only buy it in the future.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Advantages Noted:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;There is no odor I could detect&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;It is remarkably clear, like glass using a large nozzle (1.2) and layer diameter. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It flexes without breaking I'm guessing what seems like about 10-15% more than PLA. &#xA;In other words if I print a large circular ring I can squeeze the ring about 10 to 15% farther without the ring cracking or breaking. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The material itself is more dense, identically printed items have more weight to them and feel sturdy.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It has a higher glass transition temperature&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Disadvantages  noted:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;It's a little more expensive, but not prohibitively so (like carbon fiber). &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;It requires a higher printing temperature, so uses more power.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I havent perfected my retraction settings, and I have read others having similar issues with excess stringing. IOW it oozes more than PLA. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Switching between this and PLA requires extra care and time to ensure the nozzle is clear. I guess that is the same with any other alternate material as well.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="186" LastActivityDate="2016-01-26T12:58:34.467" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="399" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="394" CreationDate="2016-01-26T15:09:15.330" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;As others have also said, this is generally fine. The main things I'd avoid are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Don't plug or unplug &quot;heavy&quot; items (mainly motors and heaters) with power on; turn everything off first. This is especially true for motors, whose coils produce a hefty back-voltage when disconnected.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Be extra careful about stepper &lt;em&gt;drivers&lt;/em&gt;. For example, some printers use 2 motors for Z, so if you test each axis against one driver, the current requirement may be quite different for each axis.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Plugging in a limit switch backwards on RAMPS is likely to short +5V straight to ground, which is worth avoiding.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastActivityDate="2016-01-26T15:09:15.330" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="400" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="388" CreationDate="2016-01-26T15:25:10.253" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I haven't done anything special to set up mine. But it's probably worth doing a general cleaning. I'd swab it off with alcohol, including running a q-tip or similar inside the fiber feed path. Then blow out the nozzle with compressed air to make sure it's clear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could measure the nozzle diameter by fitting fine drill bits in to see which is the largest one the passes through freely. Be sure to measure how much fiber your extruder &lt;em&gt;really&lt;/em&gt; takes in when you ask it to extrude a certain length -- but that's about the extruder, not the hotend per se.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, I'd check the insulation, if any. I got a couple hot ends that had big gaps in/around the insulation. I've found that &quot;high-temperature gasket maker&quot; is great for improving insulation (depends, of course, on the shape and design of the specific hot end.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastActivityDate="2016-01-26T15:25:10.253" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="401" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="407" CreationDate="2016-01-26T16:45:11.463" Score="11" ViewCount="4748" Body="&lt;p&gt;High Impact PolyStyrene (HIPS) is a frequently used filament in 3D printing.  It has been touted to have simular properties when printed to ABS and is especially useful for support structures (if the user has a multi-nozzle 3d Printer) as it is soluble in Limonene.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;General Purpose PolyStyrene (GPPS) is frequently used in disposible cups, cutlery, etc.  I don't believe I have seen it as a 3D printing filament.  This is not styrofoam for the purpose of this question despite the identical chemical properties as the incorperated air makes it difficult to recycle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would filament produced from GPPS, be usable on most FFF 3D printers that are capable of using ABS, PLA, and HIPS? Are that any particular issues observed with such filaments that would not be observed with HIPS (besides the implied decrease in impact resistance)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: For the purpose of this question, I am assuming that the filament can be produced and am concerned about whether the filament would be usable for support structures and infill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36" LastActivityDate="2016-01-27T05:49:57.090" Title="Can general purpose polystryene (not HIPS) be used for 3D printing?" Tags="|filament|filament-production|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="402" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="405" CreationDate="2016-01-26T17:45:57.233" Score="9" ViewCount="1322" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is in with &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/394/when-building-a-ramps-1-4-based-printer-can-i-safely-plugin-just-some-of-the-co&quot;&gt;my other question about components&lt;/a&gt; and the &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/389/in-the-standard-pc-cable-wire-that-goes-from-the-wall-outlet-to-the-switching-po&quot;&gt;other question about electricity&lt;/a&gt;; how can I check to see how many amps are being pulled?  Can I check a component at a time to make sure I'm not going over the limit, and then just add them all in together once I've summed the amps to make sure it's safe to hook everything up.  The amps shouldn't change right?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What settings should my multimeter be set to?  And to check how much it's pulling, do I just put the multimeter's leads on the green terminals on RAMPS 1.4?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2017-05-11T11:15:12.973" LastActivityDate="2017-05-11T11:15:12.973" Title="How to use a multimeter to test how many amps RAMPS is pulling?" Tags="|ramps-1.4|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="403" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="404" CreationDate="2016-01-26T18:20:41.537" Score="8" ViewCount="10612" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is a little circuit board, or breadboard or something &lt;a href=&quot;http://reprap.org/wiki/Prusa_i3_Rework_Electronics_and_wiring#Wiring&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;in the diagram of the wiring for the i3&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And it's mentioned that the z-axis motors need to be &lt;a href=&quot;http://reprap.org/wiki/Prusa_i3_Rework_Electronics_and_wiring#Motors_wiring&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;wired in parallel&lt;/a&gt; but beyond that they don't give you much detail about parts or how the wires go in.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can someone provide me with some more detail on this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-08-07T08:46:59.303" LastActivityDate="2021-09-07T22:45:30.837" Title="How do I wire the z-axis motors in parallel on the Prusa i3?" Tags="|ramps-1.4|prusa-i3|printer-building|z-axis|nema-17|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="404" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="403" CreationDate="2016-01-26T20:36:24.173" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the diagram, they do show the wires connecting together, which is right. You can accomplish that just about any way you like, so long as you pair up the wires correctly from one motor to the other.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm assuming both &quot;Z&quot; motors are the same type and have the same color-coding for their wires. If not, you'll need to figure out the correspondences first (you may want to post another question if you need a hand with that, since it's pretty specific and generally useful).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many control boards have &quot;headers&quot; sticking up, with 4 bare pins for each motor. Connectors that plug right onto those are readily available, such as at &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.sparkfun.com/products/10364&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.sparkfun.com/products/10364&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some ways you can wire the motors in parallel:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Some control boards, like my RAMPS 1.4, provide 2 sets of header pins next to the Z stepper driver board. In that case, just put a connector on each motor (if they're not there already), and plug them in next to each other.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If there's just one set of header pins (or one Z-motor socket of some other kind) on your controller, make a &quot;Y-cord&quot; by soldering the wires from one connector (that plugs to the controller) to &lt;em&gt;2&lt;/em&gt; 4 pin connectors, one to mate with each motor.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Or you can skip the 2 extra connectors entirely, and just solder the motor wires to the wires from the connector: 2 reds to red, 2 blacks to black, or whatever.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If your controller just has empty holes, either solder in header pins and do as above (preferred, IMHO), or wire directly into the holes, splicing the 2 sets of motor wires if there's only one set of holes.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Motor and connector wires are wildly inconsistent, so make sure you get them sorted out right if they aren't already. The first thing is to check continuity: find 2 pairs of wires, which are the ends of two separate coils. If your motors have more than 4 wires it's trickier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With RAMPS (see handy diagram &lt;a href=&quot;http://makerdev.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2014/02/ramps_fanboard_annotations.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;RAMPS 1.4 RepRap Arduino Mega Pololu shield&lt;/a&gt;), &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/A6lsT.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;RAMPS 1.4 RepRap Arduino Mega Pololu shield&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/A6lsT.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;RAMPS 1.4 RepRap Arduino Mega Pololu shield&quot; title=&quot;RAMPS 1.4 RepRap Arduino Mega Pololu shield&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;the 4 pins are commonly labelled (starting from the one nearest the power-supply end of the RAMPS board):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;2B 2A 1A 1B&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It means coil 1 and coil 2, each of which has ends A and B. I find this unclear because it could just as well have been numbers for the coils, and letters for the ends (if you wire it that way it won't work). So be sure you have continuity (maybe 15 ohms or so) between the wires you connect to 2B and 2A, and between the wires you connect to 1A and 1B.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;em&gt;really good thing&lt;/em&gt; about this pin order is that if a motor is running backwards all you have to do is power off and then turn the plug around. That's one reason I think it's important to keep connectors in there, rather than soldering directly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-08-07T08:50:58.680" LastActivityDate="2018-08-07T08:50:58.680" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="405" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="402" CreationDate="2016-01-26T20:46:15.787" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;To measure amps (current), the meter has to be wired in series with the item to be measured (for this reason, ammeters are designed to have very low resistance). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This has the down-side that you have to disconnect the component to put the meter in line with it. That makes it hard to do the &quot;check a component at a time&quot; method you mentioned.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An ammeter measures &lt;em&gt;actual&lt;/em&gt; current flow, so you really can't test a component for it in isolation. Components can have wildly different &quot;current draw&quot; depending on the situation. For example, motor current varies with torque and speed; current through a resistor varies with the voltage across it; and so on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are special &quot;clamp-on&quot; current meters that just clamp around a conductor and report the current by using induction. Very nice if you have one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you just want the total current the entire RAMPS board is pulling, put the ammeter between the power supply and the RAMPS power input connection(s). Be &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; sure not to have the meter set to read volts or ohms when you do this (it might or might not survive).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastActivityDate="2016-01-26T20:46:15.787" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="406" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="402" CreationDate="2016-01-27T01:17:08.897" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The easiest method is to use a Clamp On amp meter on either the hot or neutral of your power supply.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In most cases clamp on meters only work with AC xor DC power so you would only be able to get the reading on one side of the power supply.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Multiply this number by the voltage and you get the wattage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="43" LastActivityDate="2016-01-27T01:17:08.897" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="407" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="401" CreationDate="2016-01-27T05:49:57.090" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;In principle, it should work fine as a filament, since it's used extensively in the plastic extrusion industry, but I don't think you'd get great material properties out of it. ABS and HIPS incorporate polybutadiene into a graft polymer structure for a very good reason: the butadiene sections in the long molecular chains kind of &quot;stick together&quot; as a distinct solid phase to produce what amounts to micro-bubbles of rubber inside a matrix of hard styrene or acrylonitrile-styrene plastic. This compound microstructure is what gives HIPS and ABS favorable impact toughness and some minor flexibility.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The flexibility is important -- the stiffer a filament is, the more it will tend to warp while printing. Based on chemistry alone, I would expect styrene to be somewhat more prone to warping than ABS. And it would certainly be more brittle. So there doesn't seem to be much reason to use it as filament.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Interesting sidenote: PLA/PHA has very favorable mechanical properties because the PHA forms a very similar flexible microstructure inside the hard PLA matrix. PLA/PHA is good stuff because it mimics ABS and HIPS!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="298" LastActivityDate="2016-01-27T05:49:57.090" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="408" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="318" CreationDate="2016-01-27T14:20:13.250" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Color is only displayed if you set MeshMixer to render VertexColor:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;MM menue/View/MeshColorMode/VertexColor&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Color should be visible if VertexColor is active.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Meshmixer is a sculpting program, so it isn’t made for taking exact&#xA;measurements, creating mechanical parts, or creating architecture&#xA;models.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Basic rendering options make pretty screenshots, but advanced users&#xA;might want to add in backgrounds or set up custom lighting.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, you can read more about this matter on &lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sculpteo.com/en/tutorial/prepare-your-model-3d-printing-meshmixer/3d-file-analyse-and-export-meshmixer/#analyze-file&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this link.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="334" LastActivityDate="2016-01-27T14:20:13.250" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="409" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="411" CreationDate="2016-01-27T14:26:50.577" Score="15" ViewCount="1767" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm thinking about buliding my own 3D printer from scratch. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it better to buy a starter DIY kit and try to build your printer around it, or to order separate parts for printer, and then to combine a printer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="334" LastEditorUserId="334" LastEditDate="2016-12-28T13:13:38.200" LastActivityDate="2017-06-12T16:39:59.263" Title="What are the pros and cons of collecting parts yourself, versus getting a DIY kit and then modifying it?" Tags="|printer-building|desktop-printer|diy-3d-printer|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="410" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="412" CreationDate="2016-01-27T14:30:41.597" Score="7" ViewCount="255" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a big variety of them that can be found at the market. Some of them have similar characteristics, the other varies from each other.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are props and cons of cheaper filament vs expensive filament?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How to choose which filament to use?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="334" LastEditorUserId="334" LastEditDate="2016-02-03T09:37:51.527" LastActivityDate="2018-10-09T17:29:01.683" Title="How to choose a right 3D printer filament type?" Tags="|filament|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2016-01-29T15:32:50.310" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="411" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="409" CreationDate="2016-01-27T15:00:28.890" Score="21" Body="&lt;p&gt;From a general point of view, there are a few things to consider.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;If you buy a kit&lt;/strong&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pros:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You get some insurance that &lt;em&gt;you have all the parts that you need&lt;/em&gt; to get a functional printer - all the electronics, structure, bolts, nuts, screws, washers, wires and so on.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Most likely, all the parts you get are made to &lt;em&gt;fit together&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You will (usually) get a &lt;em&gt;manual&lt;/em&gt;, often a community that can help you out, and sometimes even technical support.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sometimes, it can be &lt;em&gt;cheaper&lt;/em&gt; than buying each part separately (but it can also be more expensive)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cons:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You have limited/no options to customize your printer to your own preferences without purchasing additional parts. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Some kits can be difficult to upgrade later or may be locked to some configuration or software.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;My opinion:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The way I look at it, the better option for &lt;em&gt;you&lt;/em&gt; depends on how you want to spend your time. That is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you get a kit, you can spend more time building.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you collect all the parts yourself, you will have to spend time planning, ordering parts (possibly multiple times) in addition to actually building the printer. A possible lack of manuals could also increase the building difficulty.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't already own a 3D printer, I would recommend getting a kit, simply because struggling with trivial things like parts not fitting together can take away the fun for many people.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="115" LastEditorUserId="115" LastEditDate="2016-01-30T10:13:34.583" LastActivityDate="2016-01-30T10:13:34.583" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="412" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="410" CreationDate="2016-01-27T15:08:56.080" Score="10" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Determine what properties you need the filament to have.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a very wide variety of filaments because they all have somewhat different properties.  You need to determine what properties you need your final print to possess.  For instance, ABS can be smoothed used acetone and PLA is biodegradable. More exotic filaments could be conductive or be extremely flexible. Do not neglect to consider safety of the plastic in your application. A full list of properties is too broad for an appropriate answer from this site.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Determine what you printer is designed to handle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most printers can handle PLA and ABS with little issue but higher temperatures are required to use some materials such as nylon and polycarbonate.  Determine beforehand what your printer is designed to handle.  This includes determining whether you have and appropriate heated bed or other accessories.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Determine what you can afford.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Printing not only requires the cost of the weight of filament in the final print but all of the support structures and misprints you produce. Not only should you look for inexpensive filaments, but you should look for ones that are good enough quality you don't waste time and money fighting problems with the raw material.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All in all, this will vary case by case.  I would recommend that you start with PLA or ABS as they are common and relatively easy to work with but that you do your own research into what each individual filament type has to offer..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:29:41.667" LastActivityDate="2018-10-09T17:29:01.683" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="413" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="414" CreationDate="2016-01-27T16:25:12.577" Score="2" ViewCount="1012" Body="&lt;p&gt;How do I smooth 3D printed objects? What is the best / common method to do this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="334" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2018-09-16T12:33:48.663" LastActivityDate="2018-09-16T12:33:48.663" Title="Methods for smoothing 3D objects" Tags="|post-processing|smoothing|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2016-01-29T18:59:55.973" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="414" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="413" CreationDate="2016-01-27T21:28:36.480" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Abrasive blasting is the only other method I can think of which you haven't said you don't want to try.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is certainly the easiest method provided you have access to one. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Different forms of abrasive blasting include:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;shot blasting (metal shot) - I suspect it would be far to abrasive but I've never tried it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;sandblasting - you have to be careful but this is basically sandpaper attached to a wand. I've used it with great success.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;bead blasting - using plastic beads. It might actually be the best option but I've never tried it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;media blasting - usually uses ground up shells. Might work but I've never tried it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="66" LastActivityDate="2016-01-27T21:28:36.480" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="415" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="409" CreationDate="2016-01-28T03:44:01.257" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;I built my first printer from scratch, though it's fairly similar to an oversize MendelMax 2. It was a good learning experience, but very frustrating at times. Overall, I think I'm glad I did it that way, but a kit would have gotten me printing much faster and a bit cheaper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are my main impressions from the experience...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You should already be familiar with most of the basic skills involved: soldering, wood- and/or metal-working, electronics, etc. And don't forget software -- I wrote a lot of Arduino code for various things along the way.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You'll need to be diligent about searching for answers online, because there's no manual to go to. This group should make it a lot easier now than it was last year.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Some problems will have great answers online; some won't, or the answers will be hard to piece together. I found that stepper motors have a &quot;lore&quot; all their own, with several subtleties I didn't expect.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You'll have to decide &lt;em&gt;how&lt;/em&gt; &quot;from scratch&quot; you want to go -- I bought completed Arduino Mega and RAMPs boards, but you could buy a kit or components for those instead, or even design your own electronics altogether.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You'll make mistakes and spend money to recover. For example, my Y-axis motor couldn't move the build platform nearly fast enough (too much inertia), so I had to re-work that axis entirely, using a much more expensive lead screw, plus bearings, blocks, couplers,....&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If you think you might want to sell the printer later, I imagine it would be easier if it's a known design.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, it's a blast except when you get stuck; and the satisfaction when your first successful print comes out is pretty great.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Oh, one other hint: especially for hardware, buy in bulk. You can probably get 100 of a certain bolt online for the price of 10 at your local hardware store. Give or sell the leftovers to help others get started.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastActivityDate="2016-01-28T03:44:01.257" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="417" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="413" CreationDate="2016-01-28T17:50:46.380" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Get a rock/jewelry tumbler and some tumbling media such as stainless steel shot, and try tumbling your print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For 3D printed plastic, your print will (a) need to be sturdy, and (b) not have any fine details or small parts that you don't want to be worn away. With metal you will tumble it for hours in order to smooth and semi-polish the surface. With plastic, I would recommend a much shorter time period.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One person tried this using screws as his tumbling media, and has some interesting results to show for it. &lt;a href=&quot;http://thrinter.com/tumble-coating-3d-prints-part-1/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Part 1&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://thrinter.com/tumble-coating-3d-prints-part-2/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Part 2&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://thrinter.com/tumble-coating-3d-prints-part-3/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Part 3&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://thrinter.com/tumble-coating-3d-prints-part-4/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Part 4&lt;/a&gt;. Basically, you can get a metallic coating on your plastic print that is made up of tiny bits of the tumbling medium. You'll need to add a protective coating to keep it from rubbing off, but it's cheaper than buying metallic filament.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Thanks to Mark Walter's comment for the linked articles)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="131" LastEditorUserId="131" LastEditDate="2016-01-29T20:31:06.087" LastActivityDate="2016-01-29T20:31:06.087" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="418" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-29T15:35:24.220" Score="1" ViewCount="85" Body="&lt;p&gt;The university of Austin published a study saying that 3D printers emit toxic chemical vapors into the air when printing.  They specifically point out that PLA vapors are shown as possible links to cancer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://pubs.acs.org/doi/abs/10.1021/acs.est.5b04983&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://pubs.acs.org/doi/abs/10.1021/acs.est.5b04983&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do you ventillate your printer so you don't breathe the vapors?  I'd be interested to hear what others in the community are doing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="292" LastActivityDate="2016-01-29T15:35:24.220" Title="Do you provide ventillation for your 3D printer?" Tags="|pla|safety|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2016-01-29T21:21:49.633" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="419" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-01-29T15:46:01.907" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;PLA or Polylactic Acid is a biodegradable and bioactive thermoplastic aliphatic polyester that is the most common plastic to begin 3D printing with, since it can be printed without a heated bed. It comes in various colors, typically on spools between 500 g and 3000 g.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;PLA is harder than ABS, melts at a lower temperature (around 180°C to 220°C), and has a glass transition temperature between 60-65 °C, so is potentially a very useful material. It does exhibit higher friction than ABS however which can make it difficult to extrude and more susceptible to extruder jams.&quot; (RepRap Wiki)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is &quot;derived from renewable resources, such as corn starch (in the United States), tapioca roots, chips or starch (mostly in Asia), or sugarcane (in the rest of the world).&quot; (&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Polylactic_acid&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Wikipedia entry&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="168" LastEditorUserId="150" LastEditDate="2018-10-25T06:15:57.173" LastActivityDate="2018-10-25T06:15:57.173" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="420" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-01-29T15:46:01.907" Score="0" Body="Polylactic Acid, also known as PLA, is a common biodegradable thermoplastic polymer." OwnerUserId="292" LastEditorUserId="292" LastEditDate="2016-02-01T16:05:18.553" LastActivityDate="2016-02-01T16:05:18.553" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="421" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-31T20:58:17.587" Score="19" ViewCount="726" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have seen lots of printers that print chocolate using a syringe with molten chocolate. But, even cooler, would it be possible to print chocolate using some kind of feed system for &lt;strong&gt;continuous&lt;/strong&gt; chocolate printing, so large objects and for a prolonged time, not only lasting the content of one syringe with molten chocolate ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Things to consider are IMO:  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How to keep the chocolate long enough in a molten, viscous state&#xA;enough to print ?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Chocolate needs a tempering temperature, which&#xA;means it needs to be around 32-37 degrees celsius, else it doesn't&#xA;shine but gets a dull look (or turns white after a while). &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Chocolate&#xA;is food, so you need foodsave equipment in the whole chain that is in&#xA;contact with the chocolate.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maybe a peristaltic pump that keeps pumping the molten chocolate to the extruder, which might be a valve that can be open/closed from G-code ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="264" LastActivityDate="2019-01-01T19:37:38.847" Title="Chocolate printing" Tags="|food|chocolate|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="422" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="388" CreationDate="2016-01-31T21:21:08.277" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I heard some people are using silver polish on a pipe-rag (not sure what the English word is, it's a long metal wire with threads on it to clean a pipe (for smoking). Then put the pipe-cleaner in a cordless drill and spin it around to polish the inside the hotend to have it silky smooth inside.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also i heard some people put a hotend in canola oil and cook it, supposedly the canola gets on the hotend (like baking in a new chinese wok pan, you put oil and heat it to create a nice oily film).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I always bought original J-heads and switched to E3D only for my Delta printer. Never had to clean anything, but heard the chinese clones sometimes lack the finish the &quot;real&quot; products have.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="264" LastActivityDate="2016-01-31T21:21:08.277" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="423" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="501" CreationDate="2016-02-01T11:50:29.077" Score="20" ViewCount="10065" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently found out carbon fiber and glow in the dark PLA can damage the printer nozzle, now I'm suspicious of all the &quot;exotic&quot; filaments.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, does wood filament cause damage to the nozzle? (under normal use, or at least what someone who only used PLA/ABS before would consider normal use)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's assume a normal quality brass nozzle - not some cheap stuff that didn't even came in the correct size to begin with and not some premium reinforeced nozzle - and reasonable quality filament.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="170" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2021-01-19T17:06:29.247" LastActivityDate="2021-01-21T19:33:30.637" Title="Does wood filament damage the printer nozzle?" Tags="|filament|filled-pla|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="424" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="421" CreationDate="2016-02-01T15:46:30.960" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;Update: I found a nice article about chocolate printing: &lt;a href=&quot;https://all3dp.com/2/chocolate-3d-printer-all-you-need-to-know/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://all3dp.com/2/chocolate-3d-printer-all-you-need-to-know/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You are searching for chocolate extruder. I did not find one, which would fulfill all your requirements. You have to adapt each solution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Zmorph3d Liquid paste extruder&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://zmorph3d.com/cake-and-chocolate-extruder/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://zmorph3d.com/cake-and-chocolate-extruder/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According video on the page you insert chocolate in liquid form. That could be solved with heated chocolate container. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Syringe based extruders&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.open-electronics.org/3drag-is-now-printing-with-chocolate/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.open-electronics.org/3drag-is-now-printing-with-chocolate/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://richrap.blogspot.de/2012/04/universal-paste-extruder-ceramic-food.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://richrap.blogspot.de/2012/04/universal-paste-extruder-ceramic-food.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.instructables.com/id/Chocolate-Extruder-for-Ultimaker/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.instructables.com/id/Chocolate-Extruder-for-Ultimaker/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can use a &lt;a href=&quot;http://esyringe.com/2l-jumbo-syringe.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;2 liters syringe&lt;/a&gt;. And if this is not enough then you can refill during print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Convert pellet extruder&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Printing from chocolate pellets is simpler then printing from plastic pellets. Therefore if you use foodsave parts to build such a extruder then this is useable for you. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youmagine.com/designs/universal-pellet-extruder-reprap-3d-printing&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.youmagine.com/designs/universal-pellet-extruder-reprap-3d-printing&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Cooling&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.open-electronics.org/the-3drag-choco-chocolate-3d-printer-cooling-system-explained/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;3DRAG CHOCO (Chocolate 3d printer) Cooling system explained&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Shop&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;by Open-Electronics&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://store.open-electronics.org/index.php?_route_=3DCHOCO&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Extrude for chocolate&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.open-electronics.org/syringe-heater-for-3drag-chocolate-printer/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Syringe Heater for 3Drag chocolate printer&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="75" LastEditorUserId="75" LastEditDate="2019-01-01T19:37:38.847" LastActivityDate="2019-01-01T19:37:38.847" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="425" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="423" CreationDate="2016-02-01T16:16:38.337" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you haven't been to their site before, you should check out the forums on 3DHubs. There's a lot of how-to's. A quick Google search yields &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.3dhubs.com/talk/thread/accelerated-nozzle-wear&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; link to a similar question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The key thing to note is that in all technicalities, any material you run through the nozzle is going to cause &lt;em&gt;some&lt;/em&gt; sort of wear on your nozzle. &lt;strong&gt;How quickly&lt;/strong&gt; depends on the material or composition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The answer to the question linked above relates it spot on to sandpaper. If you have sandpaper made out of metal (ie stainless pla), it will scratch your skin fairly easily. If you have sandpaper made out of tree bark (ie laywood pla), it probably won't scratch your skin as bad, but it'll still scratch. And just for poops and giggles, lets say you have sandpaper made out of pla; it'll take a while, but you could eventually make your skin raw if you rub the plastic against your arm long enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is typically recommended to use one nozzle for each material type as to avoid cross-contamination of materials in your printing. With this idea in mind, if you are using many types of materials, you can also minimize failed prints due to clogging and other &quot;damaged nozzle&quot; type troubles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="98" LastActivityDate="2016-02-01T16:16:38.337" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="426" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="423" CreationDate="2016-02-01T16:19:40.010" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I haven't used such fiber myself (yet), so this is an educated guess rather than experience. Assuming you mean the kind that has real tiny wood bits embedded, it &lt;em&gt;shouldn't&lt;/em&gt; wear a brass nozzle badly, because the nozzle is considerably harder than the wood. Carbon fiber or steel embedded in filament are much harder, so would be expected to wear the nozzle much more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, wood-based filament will still wear the nozzle slowly -- even a hardened steel drill bit gets dull with use, even if you only cut wood with it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastActivityDate="2016-02-01T16:19:40.010" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="427" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-02-01T22:09:13.207" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;MakerBot Industries, a division of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.stratasys.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Stratasys&lt;/a&gt;, is a New York City-based company that designs and manufactures 3D printers. They are best known for their Thing-O-Matic and Replicator series printers. More details &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/MakerBot&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="98" LastEditorUserId="150" LastEditDate="2018-10-25T11:18:55.560" LastActivityDate="2018-10-25T11:18:55.560" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="428" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-02-01T22:09:13.207" Score="0" Body="Questions about the 3D printer manufacturer MakerBot Industries" OwnerUserId="98" LastEditorUserId="98" LastEditDate="2016-02-02T19:42:48.720" LastActivityDate="2016-02-02T19:42:48.720" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="429" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-02-01T22:11:22.390" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Slic3r is an open source 3D slicing engine for 3D printers. More details &lt;a href=&quot;http://slic3r.org/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="98" LastEditorUserId="4808" LastEditDate="2018-10-29T09:21:11.887" LastActivityDate="2018-10-29T09:21:11.887" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="430" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-02-01T22:11:22.390" Score="0" Body="Questions related to the software slicing engine called Slic3r" OwnerUserId="98" LastEditorUserId="98" LastEditDate="2016-02-02T19:43:29.637" LastActivityDate="2016-02-02T19:43:29.637" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="431" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-02-01T22:14:10.740" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;A &lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/wiki/Heated_Bed&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Heated Build Platform&lt;/a&gt; (or Plate) is an additional piece of hardware that provides an additional heating element in the build platform. It is a required piece of hardware for plastic filaments that shrink considerably. As the extruded plastic cools, it shrinks, and when unevenly cooled down because of the geometry of the print, it can result in a warped part lifting from the platform. At elevated temperature, shrinkage is less and more evenly when the bed temperature is close to the glass temperature of the plastic resulting in higher quality prints.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="98" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-10-03T13:35:54.533" LastActivityDate="2018-10-03T13:35:54.533" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="432" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-02-01T22:14:10.740" Score="0" Body="Use this tag for questions about the Heated Build Platform or Plate (HBP) for 3D printers." OwnerUserId="98" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-10-03T13:35:54.533" LastActivityDate="2018-10-03T13:35:54.533" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="433" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-02-01T22:17:35.177" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The resolution typically refers to the granular size of a 3D printed object's major grain structure. Resolution is most often directly related to the layer height of a 3D printed object using standard slicing methods.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="98" LastEditorUserId="98" LastEditDate="2016-02-02T19:41:57.303" LastActivityDate="2016-02-02T19:41:57.303" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="434" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-02-01T22:17:35.177" Score="0" Body="Questions about the resolution of a 3D printer or 3D printed object" OwnerUserId="98" LastEditorUserId="98" LastEditDate="2016-02-02T19:42:16.763" LastActivityDate="2016-02-02T19:42:16.763" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="435" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-02-01T22:22:38.293" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;A desktop 3D printer refers to a 3D printer that literally can fit on a common desktop. They are most commonly designed for domestic use and are generally not the same as industrial 3D printers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="98" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2019-05-29T21:15:14.470" LastActivityDate="2019-05-29T21:15:14.470" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="436" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-02-01T22:22:38.293" Score="0" Body="General questions about desktop 3D printers." OwnerUserId="98" LastEditorUserId="98" LastEditDate="2016-02-15T14:43:06.710" LastActivityDate="2016-02-15T14:43:06.710" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="437" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-02-01T22:25:31.913" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ask questions about the techniques of 3D printing either food or food-handling objects.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="98" LastEditorUserId="1" LastEditDate="2016-02-02T19:40:59.267" LastActivityDate="2016-02-02T19:40:59.267" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="438" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-02-01T22:25:31.913" Score="0" Body="Questions about 3D printing food or 3D printing food handling objects." OwnerUserId="98" LastEditorUserId="98" LastEditDate="2016-02-02T19:41:22.923" LastActivityDate="2016-02-02T19:41:22.923" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="439" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-02-01T22:27:30.747" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;For questions about proper techniques and troubleshooting of 3D printer extrusion settings, maintenance and types.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="98" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-01-17T22:59:03.810" LastActivityDate="2021-01-17T22:59:03.810" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="440" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-02-01T22:27:30.747" Score="0" Body="Questions about extrusion mechanisms in varying types of 3D printers or the extrusion process." OwnerUserId="98" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-01-17T22:59:03.810" LastActivityDate="2021-01-17T22:59:03.810" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="441" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="386" CreationDate="2016-02-02T09:48:14.497" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can basically use any machine that pulverizes your pellets into small pieces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.3dhubs.com/talk/thread/how-make-your-own-filament-recycling-old-3d-prints-part-1&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;One guy on 3dhubs, explained it in details.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My conclusion is that you can recycle everything using this data gathered from research up in link there. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, you can use any plastic material and pulverize it into pellets (even from the bottles) and you can try to do this process. Only thing that matters is quality of product.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was thinking about pellets from vinyl records. I bought one big collection before one year, and there was around 500-600 records that are completley useless. So, you can pulverize them and repeat the process, because process of making vinyl records and process of making bottles is completley different, and uses different kind of plastics. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So to draw a conslusion: everything depends on quality of pellets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And to answer on your three questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Is the quality comparable to typical off-the-shelf filaments? Put&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  another way, with reasonable tuning can one produce filament that's&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  good enough to use without a lot of frustration?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No, it isn't Your filament would be lower quality if you don't get a great pellets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Does it require a lot of attention to tuning, monitoring, or other&#xA;  details (which make it less worthwhile / more time-consuming)? Warning&#xA;  of pitfalls to avoid is also welcome.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes it does. Check the link up there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Are there useful things one can do this way, that are hard to achieve&#xA;  with off-the-shelf filaments? For example, unusual materials; better&#xA;  control of diameter, density, etc; or mixing one's own colors?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Again, it all depends on type of filament you like to use. I wrote about plastic filaments.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="334" LastActivityDate="2016-02-02T09:48:14.497" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="442" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="443" CreationDate="2016-02-02T10:35:52.800" Score="2" ViewCount="138" Body="&lt;p&gt;In general 3D printers are compact and smaller than RP machines. That's ok. But, what's the difference? 3D printers can be used as RP machine too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="334" LastActivityDate="2016-02-17T07:55:42.360" Title="Whats the difference between a basic rapid prototyping machine and a 3D printer?" Tags="|rapid-prototyping|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="443" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="442" CreationDate="2016-02-02T11:19:31.900" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;All rapid prototyping means is automatically producing a physical part from a cad model. 3D printing is a way to achieve rapid prototyping. There are 2 main methods of rapid prototyping: additive, and subtractive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A 3D printer is additive- you add materials to an object layer by layer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Usually, when people talk about a subtractive machine, they are talking about a CNC mill (or lathe), which tend to be extremely large (most are over one ton). You start with all the material there, and you subtract the material that you don't want. This might be what you are thinking of.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="156" LastActivityDate="2016-02-02T11:19:31.900" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="444" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="402" CreationDate="2016-02-02T11:24:34.173" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you don't want to stick a multimeter on the wire, I recommend getting a kill-a-watt meter. Pretty much, you plug it into the wall, and plug the printer into the meter, and it has a little screen that shows the result.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="156" LastActivityDate="2016-02-02T11:24:34.173" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="445" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-02T20:34:06.663" Score="11" ViewCount="3457" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd like to customize and modify some parts on Thingiverse, beyond just simple scaling for 3D printing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've been looking for some tools that convert the STL files into something that is easily edited, but so far all that I've found are really buggy and crash frequently as soon as one loads a reasonably complex model.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any free open source software tools that people can recommend that handle STL importing and editing? If not FOSS, what about just &quot;free or nearly free for hobbyists, ed, non-commercial?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="376" LastEditorUserId="376" LastEditDate="2016-02-06T00:41:02.940" LastActivityDate="2016-02-19T20:55:33.527" Title="What are some good FOSS or free tools for editing STL files for 3D Printing?" Tags="|software|open-source|3d-models|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="446" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="386" CreationDate="2016-02-02T22:54:02.720" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Producing own filament is a challenging task. I see main pitfall in producing filament so it has same quality as you get in shop. You have to:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;constant round-shape diameter&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;diameter tolerance ±0.05 mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;avoid bubbles and other defects&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;avoid object in filament (depends on pellets quality)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;store pellets properly (high humidity is a problem)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally you have to deal with spooling, because it affects the diameter too (if you roll filament too fast then you reduce its diameter).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It takes a lot of time and frustration to develop such a machine. If you would like to produce own filament, consider buying a filament machine: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://omnidynamics.co.uk/shop/Strooder&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Strooder&lt;/a&gt; (£960) + &lt;a href=&quot;http://omnidynamics.co.uk/shop/Strooder%20Spooler&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Strooder spooler&lt;/a&gt; (£192)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://d3dinnovations.com/filafab/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;FilaFab&lt;/a&gt; (&lt;a href=&quot;http://d3dinnovations.com/filafab/product-category/ext/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;£745 - £1495&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.extrusionbot.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;ExtrusionBot&lt;/a&gt; (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.behold3d.me/product/extrusionbot-filament-extruder-for-3d-printers-3/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;\$720&lt;/a&gt;) (Spooler included)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://redetec.com/pages/shop&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;ProtoCycler&lt;/a&gt; ($1700)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.filabot.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;FilaBot&lt;/a&gt; (\$1600) + Spooler (\$600)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you would like to use different material then ABS/PLA then take a look on Strooder documentation - they confirm usage of &lt;a href=&quot;http://omnidynamics.co.uk/shop/strooder&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;PP, PET, HDPE, HIPS, PE&lt;/a&gt;, even &lt;a href=&quot;http://3dprintboard.com/showthread.php?4351-Any-Wood-Filament&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;wood filament&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it not better option to print directly from pellets? Take a look on &lt;a href=&quot;http://richrap.blogspot.cz/2014/12/no-more-filament-quest-for-universal.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Universal Pellet Extruder for RepRap&lt;/a&gt; (&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youmagine.com/designs/universal-pellet-extruder-reprap-3d-printing&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;model&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="75" LastEditorUserId="75" LastEditDate="2019-04-11T14:17:35.767" LastActivityDate="2019-04-11T14:17:35.767" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="447" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="386" CreationDate="2016-02-03T00:02:41.107" Score="8" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Quality depends on 3 things:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Quality of pellets (purity, fillers, color)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Where/how they are stored before and during the extrusion (humidity, contaminants)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Have a filter in your extruder to get rid of random junk and air bubbles ending up in your filament (250 micron wire mesh filter)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's no secret formula the filament producing companies have, they just have very efficient and very fast filament producing machines (of course very expensive, too). But when it comes to vanilla ABS or PLA, it's almost the same content.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol start=&quot;2&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Personal experience: no. If you get the same pellets, store it in the same place and run your extruder in the same place, it should behave the same.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I don't think there is some filament mixture you won't be able to find anywhere, but you might be able to make it yourself cheaper. Example: mixing strontium aluminate powder for glow in the dark filament (come in many colors, not just green).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd recommend this design: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.instructables.com/id/Build-your-own-3d-printing-filament-factory-Filame/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.instructables.com/id/Build-your-own-3d-printing-filament-factory-Filame/&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;It produces filament pretty fast (one full 1kg spoon in 3-4 hours). Just make sure you have enough experience to not electrocute yourself while assembling this as the heaters use mains power.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I personally think the commercial &quot;hobby&quot; extruders are not worth the money. I also own the Filastruder and it's just no different and slower than the above, unless you care about a pretty plywood case for your extruder I see no advantage and since it uses off-the-shelf parts itself why bother buying a kit like that than sourcing the parts yourself?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="381" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2019-04-11T11:28:49.233" LastActivityDate="2019-04-11T11:28:49.233" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="448" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="445" CreationDate="2016-02-03T00:10:17.497" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is no argument that the most successful FOSS 3D editor is Blender. It can both import and export STL files and export to STL or many other formats (DAE, OBJ, 3DS, FBX, DXF, WRL) so you can both use it to edit STL models as well as just use it as a STL converter.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.blender.org/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://www.blender.org/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="381" LastEditorUserId="381" LastEditDate="2016-02-06T08:55:53.777" LastActivityDate="2016-02-06T08:55:53.777" CommentCount="15" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="449" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="442" CreationDate="2016-02-03T00:14:58.263" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;To add to the above answer, a very simple way to say it is that FMD 3d printer is a rapid prototyping machine which has a component called an extruder which pulls and melts plastic which the machine then lays down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="381" LastActivityDate="2016-02-03T00:14:58.263" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="450" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="452" CreationDate="2016-02-03T01:01:00.623" Score="8" ViewCount="2964" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Robo 3D. However A while ago, the print bed was fractured, and now it has a long crack cutting it in half. The bed still works because it is held together, by the screws holding the bed to the tracks. So I want to continue using it, because it still is fairly good, the heating element works fine, and a replacement bed is 80$, and I am unsure if the one sold on the RoBo 3D website will be compatible with my printer as I don't have the R1, but a version before that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/b4osS.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/b4osS.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;My cracked bed, with crack running straight through the center&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So my question is:&#xA;How can I best align the two glass fragments, to provide as flat a print surface as possible, and two how to best hold these two pieces in place, or if it would be best to invest in a new print bed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT:&#xA;Here is a image of the heating element as well to explain the situation with how it is attached&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4yr34.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4yr34.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;The heating element attached to the underside of the glass print bed&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT:&#xA;The RoBo 3D team have said that I just need to upgrade my y-axis with a object on thingiverse and then buy their new build plate. So I am going to experiment with a glass replacement, and if that fails to succeed then I will go along with their suggestion, and buy the upgrade. Thanks everyone for their help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="152" LastEditorUserId="98" LastEditDate="2016-03-21T22:53:37.810" LastActivityDate="2016-03-21T22:53:37.810" Title="Broken Print Bed" Tags="|heated-bed|hbp|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="451" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="450" CreationDate="2016-02-03T01:54:47.350" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;IMHO your best bet is to use some kind of a tape. I do not have any experience with robo3dprinter but, I have been using glass with PET tape on in for past 4 years.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have seen guys using Kapton tape as well. Never tried. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main disadvantage on this solution is increasing the bed thickness, I am not sure if you are able to tinker with the Z level endstop, in case not this migh be an issue. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other solution you can try is replace your bed with piece of glass and then apply PET tape or any other kind, I am also not sure if you are able to replace the bed print surface of not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When using glass and PET tape, you need to get the surface of PET tape rough using sand paper, and you might have to apply so called Acetone Juice to make sure that your ABS prints will stick to the bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Acetone juice is basically Aceton with disolved piece of Natural ABS plastic this created sticky layer on your bed that helps to hold your prints on the bed while printing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastActivityDate="2016-02-03T01:54:47.350" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="452" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="450" CreationDate="2016-02-03T01:55:24.110" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;A little chip is fine, but I wouldn't print with that big of a crack. &lt;strong&gt;However&lt;/strong&gt;, that doesn't mean you need to spend $80 on a new sheet of glass.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Option #1- If you want borosilicate glass, you can get a sheet from either McMaster (about $40+shipping for a 10&quot;x10&quot; piece, less for smaller) or from a local glass maker (the price varies a lot, so you should check that also if you want to go that route). However, you won't be able to drill holes (tempered glass &lt;em&gt;will&lt;/em&gt; break of you drill a hole). Borosilicate glass has the advantage of being &lt;em&gt;extremely&lt;/em&gt; heat-resistant, so it won't break from thermal expansion. If you go this route, you should pick up a few binder clips also to attach the sheet to the heated bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Option #2- You might be able to get picture frame glass from a hardware store. It's super cheap (mine was $3 or something from lowes) and they'll often cut it to exact size. You might be able to drill this, but you have to be extremely careful. Sometimes, the hardware store can drill holes in the sheet for you if needed. If you don't want to drill, a few binder clips will work just as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just a note for if you are using binder clips: you might need to (depending on how your hbp is set up) get a piece of glass that is slightly smaller to allow for any bed leveling screws to have room. If you're going with the picture frame glass, you should make sure that the glass will be entirely within the heated part so that there isn't any heat gradient (that's how glass cracks/shatters). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="156" LastActivityDate="2016-02-03T01:55:24.110" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="453" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="445" CreationDate="2016-02-03T06:36:58.977" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you want to do basic edits to an STL, a program such as &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.meshmixer.com/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;MeshMixer&lt;/a&gt; might be right for your. It offers the ability to combine and subtract models, add custom supports, and similar, in a fairly straight forward manner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An alternative that allows your to do complex editing of STLs would be &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.autodesk.com/products/fusion-360/overview&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Autodesk Fusion 360&lt;/a&gt;. Here you can import STLs into meshes, which you then may convert into solids for further editing. It is more work to use, but a very flexible solution; you can i.e choose to only convert certain faces to solid, or use the mesh as a reference point for other designs. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as I know, neither of these are FOSS (free and open source),  but both are free for non-commercial use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="115" LastEditorUserId="115" LastEditDate="2016-02-03T07:04:37.060" LastActivityDate="2016-02-03T07:04:37.060" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="454" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="469" CreationDate="2016-02-03T06:42:47.657" Score="12" ViewCount="24568" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm using Cura as my slicing/printing software and I just started using the BuildTak printing surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The BuildTak is damaged by pushing a hot nozzle into it and my printer's (Robo3D R1+) autoleveling feature works by pushing the nozzle into the build surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a way to configure Cura so that it runs the Z probe first, then heat up the nozzle?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My first sheet of BuildTak already has 10 small holes in it (at the homing position and at the 9 leveling touch points)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="170" LastEditorUserId="334" LastEditDate="2016-02-03T21:56:57.687" LastActivityDate="2021-12-30T05:29:54.163" Title="How to configure Cura to run the Z probe before heating" Tags="|software|ultimaker-cura|slicing|calibration|z-probe|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="456" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-03T09:02:28.547" Score="7" ViewCount="3539" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am wondering how people that use standalone 3D printers (printers that have the ability to print autonomously from SD Card) feed in filament, prime the printhead and/or change filaments without a laptop ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do the printers have a menu to arrange all these tasks ?&#xA;I often only see the options to preheat the head to a certain temperature, but not to load/unload filament, extrude a small amount etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I understand this differs from printer to printer, but still am wondering about this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="264" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2019-06-11T08:15:13.940" LastActivityDate="2019-06-11T08:15:13.940" Title="How do people load filament, prime the printhead, flush out the old filament when changing colors when using a standalone 3D printer?" Tags="|print-preparation|change-filament|automation|" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="457" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="456" CreationDate="2016-02-03T09:20:17.467" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are options for tablets. They are running software &lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.3ders.org/articles/20130408-control-3d-printer-with-pengpod-touch-screen-linux-tablet.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;(for example)&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; on some device that has internal storage, wifi, USB connection etc.&#xA;You can buy a new tablet, or reuse your old one just to be a controller. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another great example is &lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.matterhackers.com/store/printer-accessories/mattercontrol-touch&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this app&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Apps have menus that can arrange everything for you, now it depends on what app do you use and what filament you use. It's very simple thing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oI8Sz.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oI8Sz.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="334" LastActivityDate="2016-02-03T09:20:17.467" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="458" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="466" CreationDate="2016-02-03T09:30:32.887" Score="11" ViewCount="1509" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm thinking of another extruder on my printer, and I'm curious about this one....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it necessary to have both hot ends on same height? Why yes / why not? (if there is not)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="334" LastEditorUserId="115" LastEditDate="2016-02-03T13:57:33.997" LastActivityDate="2016-02-03T15:57:58.847" Title="Is it necessary to have both hot ends on a dual extruder printer at the same height?" Tags="|printer-building|hotend|dual-nozzle|calibration|layer-height|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="459" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="456" CreationDate="2016-02-03T09:40:16.677" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;My printer (IdeaWerk 150) is very basic and doesn't have any options for this from the screen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wrote a really simple GCODE file that brings the nozzle up to temperature, then runs the extruder for a few seconds, then waits, then extrudes for a bit again. I think it does this 3 or 4 times then stops. I can put the file (when converted to .x3g!) onto an SD card and run it whenever I need it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a similar file that allows me to level the bed without a computer by just moving the nozzle around to a few key points on the bed and pausing for a few seconds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I used a GCODE file generated by my slicer in verbose mode to get started, along with a &lt;a href=&quot;http://softsolder.com/2013/03/14/g-code-and-m-code-grand-master-list/&quot;&gt;list of codes&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't have these files to hand at the moment, but this is my &lt;code&gt;start.gcode&lt;/code&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;(**** beginning of start.txt ****)&#xA;(This file is for a WeisTek IdeaWerk 150)&#xA;(**** begin initilization commands ****)&#xA;G21 (Metric FTW)&#xA;G90 (Absolute Positioning)&#xA;M18 (This disables the stepper motors.)&#xA;&#xA;G92 X0 Y0 Z0 A0 B0 (Declare the current position to be 0,0,0,0,0)&#xA;(**** end initilization commands ****)&#xA;&#xA;(**** begin homing ****)&#xA;G161 Y X F2500&#xA;G92 X0 Y0 Z0 A0 B0&#xA;G1 X5.0 Y5.0 Z-5.0 F450&#xA;G162 Z F450&#xA;G161 Y X F2500 (Home X axis maximum, go until reaching the end stop.)&#xA;&#xA;G92 Z142.4 ( ** Set Bed Height ** )&#xA;&#xA;G92 X-75 Y-75 (set zero for X and Y)&#xA;(**** end homing ****)&#xA;&#xA;M108 R8.0 (Extruder speed = max)&#xA;M6 T0 (wait for toolhead parts, nozzle, HBP, etc., to reach temperature)&#xA;&#xA;G1 Z10 F500 (Bring bed up)&#xA;&#xA;M101 (Turn on Extruder)&#xA;G04 P8000 (Wait for 8 seconds for flow)&#xA;(**** end of start.txt ****)&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I feed &lt;em&gt;just&lt;/em&gt; this file into my printer, it will heat up the nozzle, bring the bed up to about 10cm below printing height and once the nozzle is at temperature, it turns on the extruder for 8 seconds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your printer will likely be different to mine - there are a few different flavours of GCODE and you will likely have different XYZ positions, so take a look at some GCODE generated by your own slicer and identify the different parts. The principle is the same.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="364" LastActivityDate="2016-02-03T09:40:16.677" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="460" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="456" CreationDate="2016-02-03T10:37:08.487" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;RepRap based printers use LCD modules with control button and SD card. You can trigger operations like &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;nozzle heating (to change filament)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;extrude filament&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;home axis to caliber bed level&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;...&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most used LCD modules are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://reprap.org/wiki/RepRapDiscount_Full_Graphic_Smart_Controller&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;RepRapDiscount Full Graphic Smart Controller&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fGJrJ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fGJrJ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://reprap.org/wiki/RepRapDiscount_Smart_Controller&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;RepRapDiscount Smart Controller&lt;/a&gt;, see &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2niF8_XZ7xs&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;video&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5asvg.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5asvg.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;RepRap firmwares (Marlin, Repetier) are supporting it. To get better view on what is supported, take a look on &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/blob/RC/Marlin/language_en.h&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Marlin language file&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="75" LastActivityDate="2016-02-03T10:37:08.487" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="461" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="463" CreationDate="2016-02-03T10:39:03.100" Score="9" ViewCount="2516" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have searched the internet and found various 3D printers with different advantages and materials which they can print - some even multi color.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I cannot seem to find a printer that can print multiple material with different properties; for instance, simultaneously printing PLA and metal. Is there currently such a printer available or in development? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="392" LastEditorUserId="115" LastEditDate="2016-02-08T03:04:59.363" LastActivityDate="2016-02-08T03:04:59.363" Title="Printing multiple materials with different properties on the same device" Tags="|multi-material|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="462" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="458" CreationDate="2016-02-03T14:05:25.093" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't have dual extruder printer myself, but to my understanding having both nozzles leveled at the same height is critical for getting successful prints.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For typical FDM printers, the lowest point of the end effector should always be the nozzle. If you, for instance, mount a fan lower than the tip of your nozzle, it will eventually collide with the printed object.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The effect of having unequally leveled nozzle tips for a dual extruder printer will be exactly the same: one of the nozzles will either drag against or collide with the model during print; or, one of the nozzles will be to far away from the model, giving poor layer adhesion. Either way, the result will be sub-optimal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, leveling both nozzles equally is probably a good idea. You might want to have a look at &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/331/levelling-heads-for-dual-extruder&quot;&gt;this question&lt;/a&gt; on some advice regarding how to do it.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="115" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T13:00:58.447" LastActivityDate="2016-02-03T14:05:25.093" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="463" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="461" CreationDate="2016-02-03T14:16:22.343" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes and no.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;for instance simultanious printing of plas plastic and lets say metal. Is such a printer available or in development ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Practically speaking, no.  Metal printing requires significantly higher temperatures than plastic, and the two processes are so incompatible that there is currently no good solutions that would allow one printer to print both in the same print. Whether extruding filament, laser sintering, or curing resins, the materials involved have to be fairly similar in processing environment to print adjacent to each other without issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are many printers that are intended to print multiple materials by changing the print head.  You might, for instance, use a ceramic paste extruder, then change the head for the next print using plastic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There have been efforts in the past, and some efforts are ongoing, to resolve this.  For instance wood's metal, a low temperature alloy, can be poured at temperatures compatible with plastics, so it's possible to create a printer that prints plastic, leaving troughs or voids in the plastic, then the same printer during this print would pour molten woods metal into these areas, which then solidifies into an internal metal structure.  These are intended for circuitry and electrical use, however significant problems still exist because the thermal expansion differences in these materials lead to stress and result in poor reliability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So while some of these processes are being developed, this is still just in the experimental stage and there are significant problems to overcome before printers can print widely different materials in a single printing session.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course you can find plastics with such a wide range of characteristics that they can be seen as printing different materials.  Plastics imbued with wood fibers, printing next to conductive plastics with graphite, printing next to flexible plastics, etc, etc are now possible, and depending on your requirements they may meet your needs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16" LastActivityDate="2016-02-03T14:16:22.343" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="464" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="458" CreationDate="2016-02-03T14:28:19.307" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If your printer has no way to move the heads up and down, or otherwise out of the way, and your slicer isn't able to detect collisions and account for head height differences in the produced G code, then they must be at exactly the same height &lt;em&gt;from the bed&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If extruder A is hanging lower than extruder B, then when B has printed at a certain level, and A moves across that area, A will hit the material B has printed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately, this is further complicated for newer printers because some of them rely on digital bed leveling.  If your bed isn't parallel to your X and Y axis movement, then you have to work very hard to make sure the heads are parallel to the bed, and with some mechanisms this isn't possible without making the mechanism itself parallel to the bed, so just mounting the new head at the same height as the other head might not be sufficient if your printer isn't perfectly calibrated already.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have not yet seen a printer or slicer that manages heads of different heights, but I suppose it's possible to manage the problem with additional intelligence.  For instance, if the printer can move the heads up and down independently, it might move one down for printing, and the other up and out of the way when it's not printing, and then the opposite when it switches.  I can't think of a good reason to do this, though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another option would be to develop a slicer to generate G-Code that will prevent such collisions.  The printer would necessarily be limited in what it could print depending on the location of the second head, as there are some situations where it would need to print in a certain area, but a collision prevents it from getting to that area.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At any rate, no one has developed such software or mechanisms yet, so if you had good reason to mount the heads at different heights, you'd have to account for all of these factors and develop the complete solution yourself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16" LastActivityDate="2016-02-03T14:28:19.307" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="465" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="450" CreationDate="2016-02-03T14:30:56.487" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Replacing your bed is the safest option, especially if you have a heated bed. Cracks and chips in the glass create an uneven surface for your prints, and can become a safety hazard; additionally, while borosilicate glass is very resistant to thermal shock, it can continue to crack or shatter when subjected to rapid/uneven temperature variations after damage. Borosilicate glass tends to break in large pieces rather than shattering (snap instead of splintering), but it's still a safety hazard. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It sounds like you have the Kickstarter version of the Robo3D R1; the current glass bed on the Robo3D uses magnets to hold the bed in place, so you'd probably need to replace your Y axis rails along with the bed. I would contact Robo3D support to see what options you have available for upgrading the bed and rails through them. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Aside from Robo3D, you have a few options:&#xA; - If you plan to continue using the bed, Kapton tape is an effective surface application for general printing. It's very thin, but provides an effective surface for ABS &amp;amp; PLA adherence, works with heated beds, and is compatible with secondary adherence items (blue masking tape, PVA glue, ABS slurry, etc). Kapton tape can be damaged after several prints, so plan on having several sheets on hand.&#xA; - You can replace your current borosilicate glass with a new sheet of borosilicate glass from a secondary source&#xA; - Aluminum plates are an effective replacement&#xA; - Lexan sheets also make an effective replacement, but I wouldn't recommend applying heat to them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="101" LastActivityDate="2016-02-03T14:30:56.487" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="466" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="458" CreationDate="2016-02-03T15:16:01.143" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a dual extruder Replicator 1 and having the nozzles at the same height is a must and albeit a bit of a struggle otherwise. At one point, I had to disassemble my extruder head and the nozzles didn't line up quite right. There after, printing with the lower one obviously didn't have any troubles, however, printing with the high extruder made it so the lower extruder would scrape the molten plastic layer. This made my surface finish horrible and almost impossible for support structures to be printed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Instead of fighting with my stock nozzle assembly to get everything perfectly lined up, I just shimmed the one side with some stacks of paper cutouts. This brought my extruders very close to even.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, you'll want to make sure excess plastic is cleaned off of &lt;strong&gt;BOTH&lt;/strong&gt; nozzles when printing with either nozzle. I found that some prints would fail because of a small discharge from a previous print on the other nozzle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="98" LastActivityDate="2016-02-03T15:16:01.143" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="467" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="458" CreationDate="2016-02-03T15:57:58.847" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;To add to the above answers, besides the obvious point that one hotend might collide with something another hotend positioned lower than it has printed, you also want both hotends to be positioned X microns above the bed at minimum height so your filament will stick to the bed properly. Position one a bit higher than the other and what it prints won't stick to the bed very well, position one a bit lower and it will hit the bed and clog/be unable to print the first layer.&#xA;The only reason I can think of when you'd want one hotend to be higher is a situation when you're not using both hotends and don't want the second hotend to drag on and deform a layer the main hotend has printed and is still warm and deformable. If that's an issue (I doubt) then sure, move it a bit higher.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If there are other reasons for what you would like to have the hotends at different heights, please add that to your question. I can't think of one myself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="381" LastActivityDate="2016-02-03T15:57:58.847" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="468" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="450" CreationDate="2016-02-03T16:13:01.627" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If your heatbed itself is aluminum/copper/other metal: Get a glass cut and replace it. The current one is probably attached to the heatbed with adhesive glue. If it the adhesive is cyanocrylate based, you can remove by rubbing with acetone. If silicone type, it will come off by some force. Don't worry, you won't damage aluminum. THe heating element is either inside the aluminum or under it.&#xA;If it's not alumunum it's likely a PCB heatbed. Then I wouldn't suggest to use acetone or some &quot;antiglue&quot; and would just try to apply a little force and see if the glass moves a bit. If no, don't bother, PCB heatbeds can break too. Then I'd just suggest to apply some epoxy to cover the holes surrounding the cracks and keeping the glasses uniform.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, about replacement glasses: picture frame glasses are very cheap. McMaster sells some high quality bearings and rods, but for glass there's no point to waste money. $5 is typical for that size borosilicate glass, if you're in USA (I'm not) I think your local Home Depot will cut it for free for you as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="381" LastActivityDate="2016-02-03T16:13:01.627" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="469" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="454" CreationDate="2016-02-03T19:08:20.430" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Cura (and Slic3r), you can 100% customize what the printer does before printing your actual model through custom &lt;strong&gt;start/end g-code&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you navigate to the &lt;code&gt;Start/End-GCode tab in Cura&lt;/code&gt;, then select &lt;code&gt;start.gcode&lt;/code&gt;, you can see what operations are run before each print begins. Lines prefixed with &lt;code&gt;;&lt;/code&gt; are comments, and does not affect the printing in any way. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically, we want to manually tell the printer to do the auto leveling &lt;em&gt;before&lt;/em&gt; heating up the nozzle by editing the g-code in &lt;code&gt;start.gcode&lt;/code&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;G-Code generated with the default start.gcode:&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you try to slice some model with the default code found in &lt;code&gt;start.gcode&lt;/code&gt;, you will get something like the following (depending on your printer):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;; CURA AUTOMATICALLY INSERTS THESE TEMPERATURE CODES&#xA;&#xA;M190 S70.000000 ; Set bed temperature to 70 degrees&#xA;M109 S210.000000 ; Set nozzle temperature to 210 degrees&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;; THESE ARE THE CODES FROM START.GCODE (for a ROBO 3D R1) &#xA;&#xA;G28          ;move printer to endstops (the home position)&#xA;G92 E0       ;zero the extruded filament length&#xA;M565 Z-1     ;set z-probe offset&#xA;G1 Z5 F5000  ;move the printer 5mm above the bed&#xA;G29          ;run auto-leveling&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;; THE ACTUAL MODEL BEGINS HERE&#xA;&#xA;;Layer count: 168&#xA;;LAYER:0&#xA;.&#xA;.&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Analyzing the g-code output&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the top of this code snippet, we can see that Cura automatically inserts g-code for heating up the bed and nozzle to their respective temperatures with the &lt;a href=&quot;http://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#M190:_Wait_for_bed_temperature_to_reach_target_temp&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;M190&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#M109:_Set_Extruder_Temperature_and_Wait&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;M109&lt;/a&gt; g-codes. This means the printer always will heat up the nozzle before reading the &lt;code&gt;start.gcode&lt;/code&gt;s that we set. However, if we manually override &lt;a href=&quot;http://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#M109:_Set_Extruder_Temperature_and_Wait&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;M109&lt;/a&gt; code in &lt;code&gt;start.gcode&lt;/code&gt;, the &lt;a href=&quot;http://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#M109:_Set_Extruder_Temperature_and_Wait&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;M109&lt;/a&gt; at the top will automagically disappear from the generated g-code output! (Thanks, @TomvanderZanden!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We could therefore use the auto-leveling command &lt;a href=&quot;http://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#G29:_Detailed_Z-Probe&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;G29&lt;/a&gt; before manually setting the nozzle temperature with &lt;a href=&quot;http://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#M109:_Set_Extruder_Temperature_and_Wait&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;M109&lt;/a&gt;; specifically, we want to add &lt;code&gt;M109 S{print_temperature}&lt;/code&gt;, which reads the &lt;code&gt;Basic -&amp;gt; Print Temperature&lt;/code&gt;-setting in Cura, and replace &lt;code&gt;{print_temperature}&lt;/code&gt; with it automatically.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Manipulating start.gcode:&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In order to postpone heating the hotend till after probing, &lt;code&gt;start.gcode&lt;/code&gt; could be something like: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;G28          ;move printer to endstops (the home position)&#xA;G92 E0       ;zero the extruded filament length&#xA;M565 Z-1     ;set z-probe offset     &amp;lt;-----   ( YOU HAVE TO ADJUST THIS, READ BELOW)&#xA;G1 Z5 F5000  ;move the printer 5mm above the bed&#xA;G29          ;run auto-leveling&#xA;M109 S{print_temperature}    ;set nozzle temperature, and wait for it heat up&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And that's about it! You can then use these codes in your &lt;code&gt;start.gcode&lt;/code&gt;. However, you probably will have to recalibrate your z-prove offset. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Adjust z-probe offset:&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Normally, auto-leveling is done with the nozzle heated for a reason: when the nozzle is warm, it expands slightly, moving closer to the bed. You might therefore have to adjust your Z-probe offset with the &lt;a href=&quot;http://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#M565:_Set_Z_probe_offset&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;M565&lt;/a&gt; command (as demonstrated in the snippet) to account for the increase in nozzle length when warm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Remember:&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remember that when editing g-code in this manner, you will take full control of how the printer operates. You could therefore very well do something unintended, so keep the power switch close! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="115" LastEditorUserId="115" LastEditDate="2016-02-04T06:20:01.963" LastActivityDate="2016-02-04T06:20:01.963" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="470" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-03T19:52:30.133" Score="17" ViewCount="6514" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there a good method or tool to level the bed of 3D printers? I find myself making small adjustments a lot and it's mostly just trial-and-error. A normal bubble level is of limited help and trying to figure out if the head is the thickness of a sheet of paper from the bed in all corners is beyond the capability of my vision.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="149" LastActivityDate="2020-09-30T17:24:30.283" Title="Bed leveling method?" Tags="|print-preparation|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="471" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="450" CreationDate="2016-02-03T20:42:24.560" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I agree with several others that your best bet is to replace the glass entirely. But short of that, you might try something like Loctite &quot;Glass glue&quot;, which is essentially crazy glue for glass. Be sure to level and clamp well while drying, or you'll end up with it permanently &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; straight of course. You'd want it clamped to a very flat surface, and clamped pushing the broken edges together. But I think I'd just replace it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastActivityDate="2016-02-03T20:42:24.560" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="472" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="470" CreationDate="2016-02-03T20:50:22.260" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The easiest way I know of (unless your printer has a Z-probe and automatic leveling), is to bring the nozzle(s) down fairly close to the bed (maybe 1/4&quot; or so), and then move it around while watching for anyplace that doesn't look even. Adjust the bed until it seems even. You can just eyeball it, or use a ruler or object to measure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then bring the nozzle down closer, and repeat. Each time you move it closer, you'll be able to eyeball more accurately.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you're quite close, pull out a 3x5 card, or business card, or similar, and move the nozzle up or down until the card just fits between the nozzle and the bed (with no great pressure, but no space either). Again, move the head all around the bed, and do any remaining (tiny) adjustments so it's the same everywhere.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course if the bed is at all warped this will be much harder, or even impossible. So before starting, put a good-quality straightedge along it to make sure it's actually flat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastActivityDate="2016-02-03T20:50:22.260" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="473" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="461" CreationDate="2016-02-03T23:11:31.737" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;For the most part, you can achieve this with a dual extruding printer. However, dual extrusion is best for either multi-color printing or printing with support material. For example, printing the part with PLA and all support material with water soluble PVA.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In practice, printing two completely different materials is not sound engineering practice as they have the potential to not make a well enough bond to each other. So, the case of pure metal and pure plastic, the two materials will not bond well because they will not both be in the same physical state together at any point in time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, your best option would be a printer like the &lt;a href=&quot;https://markforged.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;MarkForged&lt;/a&gt; which uses a composite approach by combining a common binder (ABS, PLA, Nylon, etc.) and a strong material such as Carbon Fiber, Fiberglass, or Kevlar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="98" LastActivityDate="2016-02-03T23:11:31.737" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="474" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="470" CreationDate="2016-02-04T00:01:39.850" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are several ways.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) Simplest is the business card/paper method.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This video shows how simple it is: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5bzAE5-QgUY&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Leveling the platform&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should feel the same amount of resistance between the hotend and the bed on all sides. On some 3D printers there are 3 screws holding the bed (eg. Solidoodle) and on others there are 4 screws on each edge (e.g. Prusa i3).&#xA;On some 3D printers you need to rotate a screw with a screwdriver to adjust it (e.g. Solidoodle 3) and on some you have a nut (mostly wing nut) (e.g. Solidoodle 4).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I find most people move the extruder around when adjusting the bed by controlling the motors. I think the quicker way is stopping the motors (in Repetier Host it's the &quot;Stop Motor&quot; button) and moving the gantry by hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tutorial: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ED1Gxvw2Rmw&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;3D printing guides - Bed leveling&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) Second one is just more advanced version of the above. You use a dial indicator/ micrometer attached to your extruder and make sure the number on the dial is as close as possible on all edges.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UI6eKDUzdfA&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Level the Print Bed on a RepRap / RepStrap 3D Printer with a Mitutoyo Dial Test Indicator&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K19BaqhYD0c&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Micrometer op 3D printer&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are also digital versions of this tool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might need to print or make some other way a piece to be able to attach a micrometer to the extruder (there might be one for your 3D printer on Thingiverse already).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, remember I mentioned that you adjust the height of the edges of the print bed with a screw/nut? Well, since there is a lot of vibration during print those tend to get out of place and that might explain why you end up readjusting it over and over again. What I have found to solve this is to use a single drop of Loctite (cyanocrylate glue) in the middle of the nut/screw. A single drop will secure it in place but also not make it impossible to unscrew in the future.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3) Setting up auto-bed leveling on your 3D printer if it's modable enough:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EcGFLwj0pnA&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;3D printing guides: Setting up auto bed tramming leveling tilt compensation!&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, if you can't get the bed leveled no matter what, it might be uneven. That's usually caused by warping. Both PCB beds and aluminum beds can get warped. With the former just sandwich a glass bed on top of it and it should be fine. Warped aluminum is pretty hard to flatten. In this extreme situation you might need to get a new aluminum sheet cut and drilled, preferably a mm thicker one which is less likely to warp under the same conditions. I think this happens when you either set the bed temp too high and/or the thickness of the aluminum bed is too small (bad or cheap 3D printer design).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="381" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2016-11-03T09:57:35.257" LastActivityDate="2016-11-03T09:57:35.257" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="475" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-04T03:42:26.377" Score="19" ViewCount="58088" Body="&lt;p&gt;Occasionally, while printing, my &lt;em&gt;y&lt;/em&gt; axis will slip and the layer will, from that point forward, be shifted, ruining the print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What might be the causes of an axis slipping? I have tried cooling the motor which seemed to have been getting warm, and the belts are not too tight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This does not happen with every print, and seems to be an intermittent problem. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My printer is a MendelMax RepRap, and the &lt;em&gt;y&lt;/em&gt; axis is my moving bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="47" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2016-11-27T13:54:29.193" LastActivityDate="2024-01-14T18:49:01.450" Title="What could be causing my y axis to slip?" Tags="|fdm|calibration|y-axis|" AnswerCount="13" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="476" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="475" CreationDate="2016-02-04T05:06:31.937" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;From what I've experienced, there could be three potential reasons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your belt(s) could be loose. Simply loosen your Y-Axis motor and pull the motor until the belt is slightly more than taught (it will relax into a taught position). Then, tighten the motor securely in its place.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;One of your axis endstops could be triggered mid-print. If you have a larger print, you run the risk of hitting an endstop, which could cause the machine to lose its coordinate system.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I found on my machine, if you run your program via USB (on MakerWare specifically, possibly others) there might be some sort of lag in the serial connection that could cause the entire program or coordinate system to shift. I repeated this issue multiple time using a USB connection and fixed it (repeatedly) by either running off of an SD card, using a different slicer (in my case the Cura plugin for OctoPi), or trying an earlier version of your software (this was my long term solution).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The latter worked best for me. I tried running MakerBot Desktop on my Dual Replicator 1, but ran into the same exact issue as you. In fact, I encountered this issue around firmware 5.0 on the Replicator as well (7.? is the latest). Finally I switched back to using MakerWare 2.4.? and everything worked fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="98" LastActivityDate="2016-02-04T05:06:31.937" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="477" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="475" CreationDate="2016-02-04T06:43:15.730" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The current to your motor driver could be set either too high or too low. If it's set too low then the torque might not be sufficient and the motor will skip steps. If it's set too high then the driver might overheat and occasionally shut down to protect itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another option is that the printing speeds (or jerk/acceleration settings) are too high. I would start by reducing the travel speed (which presumably is higher than your printing speed) and see if that makes a difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The motor getting warm is normal and will not cause these issues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastActivityDate="2016-02-04T06:43:15.730" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="478" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="475" CreationDate="2016-02-04T06:43:15.970" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my experience, the most common reason for positional offset during printing, is the &lt;em&gt;motor skipping steps due to physical impact&lt;/em&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your stepper motors do not give &lt;em&gt;positional feedback&lt;/em&gt; to your printer. So, if you forcefully move your motor during print, then the printer will not notice, and simply pretend it never happened.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In particular, the motor could skip steps if:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your nozzle collides with erroneous extrusions (e.g. blobs) during print.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your speed settings (jerk and acceleration) are too high for the mass (inertia) of the parts moved by the y-axis motor.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Smaller collisions and nozzle drag at high speed (e.g. during travel) could also cause this problem, since the strength of stepper motors is &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.no/search?q=stepper%20motor%20strength%20curve%20NEMA%2017&amp;amp;espv=2&amp;amp;biw=1396&amp;amp;bih=805&amp;amp;source=lnms&amp;amp;tbm=isch&amp;amp;sa=X&amp;amp;ved=0ahUKEwifiuvOwN3KAhXBGCwKHUWHDPgQ_AUIBygB#imgrc=ZBI28Gp2zjb3oM%3A&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;reduced at high speeds&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="115" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2016-11-04T12:31:36.347" LastActivityDate="2016-11-04T12:31:36.347" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="479" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="470" CreationDate="2016-02-04T14:13:01.280" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you don't have an auto-leveling build plate or a depth gauge attachment for your X-Axis, you're pretty much stuck with the &quot;piece of paper&quot; method. To perform this easier, try shifting the paper as you adjust the bed. As soon as the paper becomes difficult to move (the nozzle is touching now), back off the build plate by about a quarter turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please also keep in mind how your printer is constructed. If your build plate arms are plastic, they are easily susceptible to warping if you have a heated build plate. Even if the warping isn't permanent, the build plate can technically shift during a print as the arms get hotter. Some people go as far as replacing these arms with aluminum versions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="98" LastActivityDate="2016-02-04T14:13:01.280" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="480" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-02-04T15:30:15.340" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Dual nozzles provides an FDM/FFF machine with the ability to print 1 to 2 different materials during a single cycle. Questions may include troubleshooting, mechanism design, maintenance, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="98" LastEditorUserId="98" LastEditDate="2016-02-08T14:16:09.230" LastActivityDate="2016-02-08T14:16:09.230" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="481" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-02-04T15:30:15.340" Score="0" Body="Questions about FDM/FFF printing with two extrusion assemblies." OwnerUserId="98" LastEditorUserId="98" LastEditDate="2016-02-09T00:46:31.933" LastActivityDate="2016-02-09T00:46:31.933" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="482" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-02-04T15:34:01.137" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Calibration is a non-regular maintenance task that can provide better dimensional and mechanical accuracy for 3D printer parts and the machine respectively.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="98" LastEditorUserId="98" LastEditDate="2016-02-08T14:16:44.300" LastActivityDate="2016-02-08T14:16:44.300" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="483" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-02-04T15:34:01.137" Score="0" Body="Questions about calibration of various 3D printer mechanics" OwnerUserId="98" LastEditorUserId="98" LastEditDate="2016-04-18T06:36:08.513" LastActivityDate="2016-04-18T06:36:08.513" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="484" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-02-04T15:36:21.680" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2016-02-04T15:36:21.680" LastActivityDate="2016-02-04T15:36:21.680" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="485" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-02-04T15:36:21.680" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2016-02-04T15:36:21.680" LastActivityDate="2016-02-04T15:36:21.680" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="486" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-02-04T15:38:01.510" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;For questions regarding how to setup a build plate, prepare a model, or any other pre-run tasks in 3D printing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="98" LastEditorUserId="98" LastEditDate="2016-02-08T14:20:20.550" LastActivityDate="2016-02-08T14:20:20.550" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="487" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-02-04T15:38:01.510" Score="0" Body="Questions about setting up a machine to print." OwnerUserId="98" LastEditorUserId="98" LastEditDate="2016-02-08T14:18:40.340" LastActivityDate="2016-02-08T14:18:40.340" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="488" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-02-04T15:39:55.417" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;For questions regarding materials in general such as whether a material is capable of being 3D printed, optimal 3D printing parameters (i.e. extrusion temp), mechanical properties of materials, printer construction, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please note that &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/material&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;material&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;material&lt;/a&gt; is a superset of &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/print-material&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;print-material&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;print-material&lt;/a&gt;, and not only confined to being printed (i.e. filament), but also construction of a printer (i.e. acrylic, wood, steel, aluminium, etc.).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For filament related questions, please use &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/print-material&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;print-material&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;print-material&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="98" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-07-06T18:11:56.627" LastActivityDate="2018-07-06T18:11:56.627" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="489" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-02-04T15:39:55.417" Score="0" Body="For questions about materials in general. For filament related questions, please use print-material tag" OwnerUserId="98" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-07-06T18:11:56.627" LastActivityDate="2018-07-06T18:11:56.627" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="490" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-02-04T15:41:41.650" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;For questions regarding either the slicing engines that provides 3D printers with the commands to print or the 3D modeling software used to create the model that is imported into the slicing engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="98" LastEditorUserId="98" LastEditDate="2016-02-08T14:16:29.083" LastActivityDate="2016-02-08T14:16:29.083" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="491" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-02-04T15:41:41.650" Score="0" Body="Questions about either slicing engines or 3D modeling software." OwnerUserId="98" LastEditorUserId="98" LastEditDate="2016-02-08T14:16:25.010" LastActivityDate="2016-02-08T14:16:25.010" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="492" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-02-04T15:44:01.917" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;For questions regarding troubleshooting, maintenance, setup, etc. of a 3D printers electronics. Or, questions about best practices in designing/printing electronic components.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="98" LastEditorUserId="98" LastEditDate="2016-02-08T14:17:55.093" LastActivityDate="2016-02-08T14:17:55.093" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="493" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-02-04T15:44:01.917" Score="0" Body="Questions about electronic components for 3D printers or 3D printing electronic components." OwnerUserId="98" LastEditorUserId="98" LastEditDate="2016-02-08T14:17:07.890" LastActivityDate="2016-02-08T14:17:07.890" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="494" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-02-04T15:45:51.207" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;For questions regarding the use or troubleshooting of the slicing software Ultimaker Cura which was formerly known by Cura solely before the re-branding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="98" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-01-25T07:45:16.967" LastActivityDate="2019-01-25T07:45:16.967" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="495" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-02-04T15:45:51.207" Score="0" Body="Questions about the slicing program called Ultimaker Cura." OwnerUserId="98" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-10-03T06:45:21.527" LastActivityDate="2018-10-03T06:45:21.527" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="496" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-02-04T15:47:41.233" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;For questions regarding troubleshooting or setting up hardware acceleration settings for a 3D printer either digitally or electronically.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="98" LastEditorUserId="98" LastEditDate="2016-02-08T14:10:14.513" LastActivityDate="2016-02-08T14:10:14.513" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="497" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-02-04T15:47:41.233" Score="0" Body="For questions regarding troubleshooting or setting up hardware acceleration settings for a 3D printer either digitally or electronically." OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2019-05-30T17:25:12.157" LastActivityDate="2019-05-30T17:25:12.157" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="498" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-02-04T15:49:02.870" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;For questions regarding best practices or troubleshooting part-to-platform or layer-to-layer adhesion while 3D printing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="98" LastEditorUserId="98" LastEditDate="2016-02-08T14:16:13.727" LastActivityDate="2016-02-08T14:16:13.727" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="499" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-02-04T15:49:02.870" Score="0" Body="Questions about part-to-platform or layer-to-layer adhesion while 3D printing." OwnerUserId="98" LastEditorUserId="98" LastEditDate="2016-02-08T14:20:16.017" LastActivityDate="2016-02-08T14:20:16.017" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="500" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="475" CreationDate="2016-02-04T16:37:19.293" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fWRUk.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fWRUk.png&quot; alt=&quot;Shifted layer 2&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;sub&gt;(source: &lt;a href=&quot;https://all3dp.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/09/MaX_Fredroom_3D_Printer_Hangover.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;all3dp.com&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your printer is skipping steps in the y-direction. This can have several causes. Take a look into &lt;a href=&quot;http://reprap.org/wiki/Shifted_layers&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Shifted layer guide on RapRap.org&lt;/a&gt; which lists 29 possible problems that can cause this issue and how to fix them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First items of the list:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Driver current is too low&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Driver current is too high&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Belt too Loose&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Belt too Tight&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Loose Set Screw/Grub Screw&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Belt or Bearing is binding&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Speeds are too high&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Acceleration is too high&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;...&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I was dealing with this issue on my RepRap I had to increase current to the particular driver.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="75" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:29:41.667" LastActivityDate="2019-02-16T16:07:06.513" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="501" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="423" CreationDate="2016-02-04T19:07:49.910" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;EDIT: &lt;strong&gt;It seems many haven't shared my same experience and have their own input and proof, please view others answers below! For the record I've been using Hatchbox Wood PLA&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Original Answer:&#xA;Wood filament has the same effect on the nozzle as PLA, so, no, it shouldn't. It's just some wood shavings mixed with PLA, after all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Materials like Carbon Fiber and Stainless Steel are abrasive and will wear down a brass nozzle. You would want a hardened steel nozzle in that case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="412" LastEditorUserId="412" LastEditDate="2021-01-21T19:33:30.637" LastActivityDate="2021-01-21T19:33:30.637" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="502" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-04T23:34:54.153" Score="5" ViewCount="430" Body="&lt;p&gt;From what I understand, it takes a really long time for the heated bed to heat up using an MK2a heated bed.  I've heard some people suggest that using &lt;a href=&quot;http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?4,584582&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Polyisocyanurate (PIR) foam&lt;/a&gt; (insulation that takes quite a bit of heat to catch on fire) can be used under the headed bed to make it heat up faster.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now of course there are other methods for doing this too, for instance using a larger power supply, but at this point I'd rather just use the parts that I have without re-soldering many of the components on the RAMPS board. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was wondering what a proper way to attach this to the bed would be for instance, should the springs go on the bottom or on the top of the bed?  Do I need some extra parts?  Are there any other considerations for doing this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastEditorUserId="98" LastEditDate="2016-03-21T22:53:23.177" LastActivityDate="2016-03-21T22:53:23.177" Title="How to properly use Polyisocyanurate (PIR) foam with the heated bed?" Tags="|heated-bed|printer-building|hbp|mk2a|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="503" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="502" CreationDate="2016-02-05T08:21:37.967" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you use a seperate powersupply for your bed (or if your controller has a built in voltage regulator so it doesn't damage at higher voltages) you can sometimes find an small potentiometer near the connection terminals of your powersupply, turning this potentiometer up can raise the outputvoltage of your powersupply by a few volts max. In my case the potentiometer was orange and allowed me to turn up the voltage by almost 2Volts!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your printcontroller is running from the same powersupply and is critical about input DON'T do this since it will damage the electronics.&#xA;Better option then is to find a higher voltage powersupply and power the bed Seperately. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A buddy of mine runs his MARK2a bed on 19V and it heats up very fast. (he uses an obscure 15V powersupply that was able to be cranked up to 19V). And he doesn't use insulation at all!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="264" LastActivityDate="2016-02-05T08:21:37.967" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="504" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="502" CreationDate="2016-02-05T09:31:53.923" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;An alternative solution that is used with some &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.think3dprint3d.com/3D-Printer-Kits/complete-3D-printer-kits/Kossel-Mini-3dPrinter-Kit&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Kossel Mini&lt;/a&gt; models, is a simple &lt;a href=&quot;https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/RNWfKpkiA_cg16D6gPqcQ4e1uCFmW4-lIV-KVZYnFJyn3EtbCrsH_sXHKXZxkrlPjnHD1giczw676mjnJbq4SwFeJRHEGvfZqdh_j_QoX1kYxGITuiuJ9xQZ023sgMSyCEolIuo&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;cardboard covered with aluminum tape&lt;/a&gt; (&lt;a href=&quot;https://docs.google.com/document/d/1k2J78MIDsD2FBHLDnZ06bMdprNjH6nYhkiLUsjemnUc/pub&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;docs&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This solution has the added benefit of actually improving heat-up time, since the reflective surface of the aluminum tape &lt;em&gt;reflects the heat back into the bed&lt;/em&gt;, instead of getting absorbed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is also a very simple solution, without costly materials. I guess mounting it properly could be an issue depending on your printer, but this is a fine solution for the Kossel models, at least.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="115" LastActivityDate="2016-02-05T09:31:53.923" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="505" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="506" CreationDate="2016-02-05T18:24:43.220" Score="17" ViewCount="42089" Body="&lt;p&gt;Glass is always level, easy to clean, easy to work with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Aluminium allows for the addition of automatic bed leveling with an inductive sensor and distributes heat a little more evenly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When printing mostly ABS and PLA, which one is better?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="378" LastEditorUserId="98" LastEditDate="2016-03-21T22:53:08.053" LastActivityDate="2019-08-07T13:19:56.977" Title="Ideal print bed: Glass or Aluminium?" Tags="|heated-bed|hbp|" AnswerCount="8" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="506" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="505" CreationDate="2016-02-05T19:21:59.103" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;I believe printing directly on aluminium is unwise, simply because it will expand when heated, typically giving the bed a concave or convex shape. Glass, on the other hand, does not (at least not significantly).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As pointed out in the comments below, the heat expansion of aluminium could potentially be mitigated by increasing the thickness of the bed, as well as heating it evenly. Also, a common solution is to place a glass plate on top of an aluminium bed, at the cost of a slightly longer heat-up time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my experience, printing directly on heated glass can be very practical and give a nice surface finish for some PLA variants and other materials that support it. I don't know if printing directly on aluminium can give similar benefits.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="115" LastEditorUserId="115" LastEditDate="2016-02-06T11:06:05.537" LastActivityDate="2016-02-06T11:06:05.537" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="507" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="509" CreationDate="2016-02-05T22:18:16.727" Score="14" ViewCount="7199" Body="&lt;p&gt;I currently print with a .4mm nozzle on my extruder, and my prints seem to come out fairly accurate; would I see much of a difference if I went to a .3mm?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are the pros and cons of larger and smaller nozzle sizes?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="47" LastEditorUserId="156" LastEditDate="2016-02-05T23:11:04.587" LastActivityDate="2016-02-06T02:18:17.257" Title="Will I see a noticeable difference switching from a .4mm to a .3mm nozzle?" Tags="|fdm|extruder|nozzle|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="508" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="507" CreationDate="2016-02-05T22:47:51.670" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;My understanding is that the only difference is your range that your layer height can be. For example, the optimal layer heights for a 0.4mm nozzle fall between 0.1-0.3mm. So, we can assume a smaller nozzle will yield a lower range. Keep in mind that varying sizes in the nozzle could produce complications more prominently than with a standard size. Things such as ooze, clogging, and filament backup may occur with a smaller nozzle size if your slicing engine is not setup correctly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="98" LastActivityDate="2016-02-05T22:47:51.670" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="509" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="507" CreationDate="2016-02-05T22:59:40.200" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;1) Smaller nozzle advantage: sharper &quot;corners&quot; (higher X and Y resolution)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) Larger nozzle advantage: faster 3d printing (because you can print the shell faster as each perimeter can be thicker so you'll need less perimeters to be printed to get the same shell thickness. Same true for infill).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3) Smaller nozzle disadvantage (varies, debatable): higher risk of clogging. There are of course other factors which can result in clogging, but this can also affect it as even finer particles in less quality filament can get stuck now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;4) Smallel nozzle disadvantage: since less plastic can come out at a given duration of time, it means less speedy printing of larger layer heights, if at all possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I feel like I should get back to (1) and explain why it is so.&#xA;When companies market their 3d printer they usually talk about the layer height (the Z resolution) completely ignoring the X and Y. This makes sense for marketing. Luckily it is not hard to explain what is usually left out and what is important for one of the answers to your question on what are advantages of smaller nozzles:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Z resolution depends on two main things:&#xA;1) The stepper motor driver accuracy of your 3d printer's motherboard. Pretty much all are the same now. Claiming your 3d printer can print at 20 micron layer height doesn't say anything, pretty much any 3d printed today can.&#xA;2) Nozzle/extruder quality, nozzle diameter. The latter surprisingly does not determine much. Because of how FFF/FMD 3d printing works, the perimeters of your 3d print can be way thinner than your nozzle diameter. This might sound odd but there's a simple explanation: the molten plastic coming out of the hotend is squished and stretched when the head moves. Because it is stretched, it can be made thinner as you increase how much it is squished. There's not much experimentation done on this and available online, only from personal experience I can say I can print perimeters 50% thinner than my 3mm nozzle. So I suppose if you wanted thinner perimeters than that, you would need to swap to a thinner nozzle.&#xA;Why would you want thinner perimeters? To get sharper corners or in other words better X and Y resolution for your 3d prints which is ignored by most unlike the overstated &quot;layer height&quot; (Z resolution).&#xA;Here's an illustration to help you visualize how fatter perimeters and less sharp corners/edges on your 3d model result in &quot;lower X/Y resolution&quot; (the illustration is a 2d cutout, viewed from the top):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/E9Q38.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/E9Q38.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="381" LastEditorUserId="381" LastEditDate="2016-02-06T02:18:17.257" LastActivityDate="2016-02-06T02:18:17.257" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="510" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="511" CreationDate="2016-02-05T23:53:48.623" Score="9" ViewCount="1563" Body="&lt;p&gt;I always assumed that the smallest diameter that you could extrude was equal to the diameter of the extruder tip itself. Recently I heard that you can actually extrude a line that's as little as half the width of the nozzle opening.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is that true in theory? In practice?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My printer's 0.3mm nozzle broke recently, and the only replacement on hand was a 1.2mm nozzle. The prints have been fast, but really coarse and imprecise. I've dialed the extrusion diameter down from about 2mm to 1.2mm for some smaller, more intricate parts, and it worked fine. Can I go down to 0.9mm or 0.6mm extrusion diameter without it screwing up my prints?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I can't do that, what &lt;em&gt;does&lt;/em&gt; happen if I try to print 0.6mm out of a 1.2mm extruder nozzle?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For this question, let's assume an FDM printer using PLA and/or ABS filament.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="131" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2018-09-16T12:28:24.383" LastActivityDate="2018-09-16T12:28:24.383" Title="How thin can my extrusion be from a 1.2mm extruder?" Tags="|print-quality|extrusion|nozzle|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="511" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="510" CreationDate="2016-02-06T06:19:08.443" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;The main issue with very narrow extrusion widths (less than the nozzle size) is that you get really poor &quot;nozzle squash.&quot; The plastic isn't pressed down very hard as it's extruded. That causes poor layer bonding and weaker prints. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The flow of molten plastic coming out of the nozzle must be drawn down by tension in order to end up smaller than the nozzle opening, and that drawing effect makes it difficult to get good contact with the previous layer. So you end up with a &quot;stack of logs&quot; structure kind of like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MwRXM.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MwRXM.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;0.4mm wide by 0.4mm tall strands through a 0.4mm nozzle&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;(This photo actually shows layer height = extrusion width = nozzle size, which is another no-no, but the end result is similar.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What you want instead is something very &quot;mashed together&quot; and strong like this:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zqaDx.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zqaDx.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;0.4mm wide by 0.4mm tall strands through a 0.4mm nozzle&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How finely the the strand can draw down -- versus smearing or breaking apart into blobs -- will depend greatly on the type of filament and the printing conditions. For example, nylon draws down extremely well because it experiences a large degree of strain crystallization, and actually gets stronger and stiffer as it's stretched. PLA tends to get more brittle when strained and may break into stringy blobs. ABS doesn't change terribly much because it's highly amorphous. Polymer type, blending agents, print speed, printing temperature, and cooling will control the drawing behavior of the filament. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another factor to consider is what the strand spacing is within the print. If you set the extrusion width equal to half the nozzle width, depending on the slicer, adjacent strands may be placed with pitch equal or slightly less than half the nozzle width. So after the first strand is printed (say an unimportant inner perimeter) &lt;strong&gt;the &lt;em&gt;next&lt;/em&gt; strand will be printed with the nozzle partially overlapping the previous strand.&lt;/strong&gt; This effectively creates a constriction to force the plastic out of a smaller opening to one side of the nozzle, which is not too different from printing with a smaller nozzle. Subsequent perimeter strands may then tend to &quot;heal up&quot; even if the first is low quality. This effect doesn't completely fix the problem, but it helps account for why under-width strands seem to work better than they ought to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, even if the strands turn out ok, it's arguable whether there is any benefit. If the goal of a smaller extrusion width is more precision and sharper corners, you may not actually accomplish that goal. When the filament is being drawn down by tension in the cooling polymer, it may tend to &quot;cut corners&quot; and get pulled into a rounded arc when the nozzle changes direction. That may defeat the point of using a thinner extrusion width in the first place. Generally I only recommend using under-width strands to capture thin-wall detail that is only a little bit too thin for the nozzle, not as a way to improve overall print quality.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In comparison, having the extrusion width equal or wider than the nozzle ensures the plastic is firmly squished downward into intimate contact with the lower layer. You can fudge this a bit and still get decent results, but it's &lt;em&gt;usually&lt;/em&gt; best to keep the extrusion width equal or larger than the nozzle size. There's no hard cutoff where it will / won't work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="298" LastActivityDate="2016-02-06T06:19:08.443" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="512" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-06T13:53:01.323" Score="5" ViewCount="1427" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently upgraded my Geeetech Acrylic Prusa i3 with a MKS Base V1.4 and it would not recognize the thermistors (100K {type 1}) even though they worked fine with the Arduino Mega 2560 with the RAMPS shield. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After changing the thermistors for the 4th time it began to work, but the model printed was quite distorted. Then without warning it suddenly does not recognize them again. The board does create the USB port, but does not appear to communicate with my computer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is the problem more associative with the board or my computer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="442" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2019-06-11T08:03:55.013" LastActivityDate="2019-06-11T09:21:49.423" Title="Why does my MKS Base not recognize my thermistors?" Tags="|prusa-i3-rework|prusa-i3|arduino-mega-2650|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="12" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="513" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-06T18:36:22.797" Score="36" ViewCount="51544" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Given the emissions that 3d printing gives off (ABS = styrene and other chemicals, PLA give some off, etc), what options are there to filter the air in the enclosure other than venting the air out of a window?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More information on the chemicals 3d printing emit:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://built-envi.com/portfolio/ultrafine-particle-emissions-from-3d-printers/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://built-envi.com/portfolio/ultrafine-particle-emissions-from-3d-printers/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It looks like activated carbon filters would be a strong performer for ABS (styrene) and PLA (lactide):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.sentryair.com/activated-carbon-filter.htm&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.sentryair.com/activated-carbon-filter.htm&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Are there better filtering materials or processes for filtering the air in an enclosure?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's an example filter setup:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;This fan mount: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:780001&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:780001&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;60mm fans and this filter: &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B00XNI5SY4&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00XNI5SY4&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;And sandwich the filter on the fan using this fan grill: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:11906&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:11906&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="378" LastEditorUserId="360" LastEditDate="2020-10-19T21:09:02.317" LastActivityDate="2020-10-19T21:09:02.317" Title="What air filtration options exist for enclosures?" Tags="|ventilation|enclosure|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="514" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-06T22:02:59.700" Score="5" ViewCount="467" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some electronics come as a single PCB. They have CPU and everything on just one board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other electronics are a shield for an Arduino. So these are always two boards. The Arduino and the other PCB.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You probably don't want to exchange the Arduino unless it is broken. Does it break that often or are the two boards just the predecessors of the one board solution?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are the benefits/downsides to having one/two boards?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="204" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-12-18T09:25:27.213" LastActivityDate="2020-12-20T08:01:07.617" Title="What is the benefit of the Arduino shield based electronics?" Tags="|electronics|arduino|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="515" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="514" CreationDate="2016-02-06T23:41:08.370" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Many 3d printer motherboards are based on Arduino/Atmega microcontroller and just add some stepper motor drivers, MOSFETs and such in a single board. That explains why you use the Arduino IDE to update or modify their firmware.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now why you would want to use an Arduino + an Arduino shield board like RAMPS? Well if you're not good at electronics, are happy with the cost of your own board, don't care much about upgrades/modding beyond what is possible with your board, maybe you shouldn't, it might be overwhelming.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are several advantages with using Arduino with a shield for your 3d printer, &quot;two boards are not just the predecessors of the one board solution&quot;, no.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) It is moddable/exandable/upgradable/has replacable parts.&#xA;If your printer came with its own motherboard that doesn't have additional or enough pins to add more fans, enclosure lights, a second extruder, an LCD and you want to, it sucks. RAMPS can do that, it has plenty of extra pins.&#xA;It is upgradable. You want to replace the stepper drivers with a new one? Or you accidentally damaged the one you have? Fear not, you can just replace that instead of the whole motherboard.&#xA;Think if it like other motherboards being PCs on which you can't change the CPU, RAM and GPU.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) It is here for a long time, you will be able to acquire one for a long time.&#xA;There isn't just one company making RAMPS or similar sheilds. Sometimes 3d printing companies go out of business or stop producing your particular motherboard. RAMPS is likely here to stay. Because Arduino is very likely here to stay.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3) As said above, not just one company owns or makes RAMPS or other Arduino shields. Besides the possibility of your motherboard not being produced anymore, there's also the advantage of not being at the mercy of one companies pricing and shipping policies. This is true for some other boards as well though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;4) It is possibly cheaper than what have you. I don't want to post a link, but one company right now is selling their derivative of Printrboard for like $180. Check the cost of Arduino Mega, stepper drivers and a RAMPS board yourself, quite a difference. That said, there are some boards which are close in price.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;5) It's an Arduino. Why is this a good thing by itself? Because many people who have a 3d printer are tinkerers/makers and they already use Arduino for other projects. It is open source with a rich library to control many things. The modding and upgrades for your 3d printer which can be done with Arduino is another level higher. Or it can be a good learning experience for your future Arduino projects. If on the other hand you already use Arduino and are experienced with it, you might use it just because you know how to control it/fix it better than some specialized board you haven't seen before. Plus for a guy like you your 3d printer's motherboard will be an &quot;off-the-shelf&quot; part, that's nice, right?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Video on RAMPS: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FYJn6FuWOv4&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FYJn6FuWOv4&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="381" LastEditorUserId="381" LastEditDate="2016-02-06T23:58:49.873" LastActivityDate="2016-02-06T23:58:49.873" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="516" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="525" CreationDate="2016-02-07T00:33:09.337" Score="10" ViewCount="1022" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm printing cylindrical pins for a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:283656&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;spool holder&lt;/a&gt;, but all my pins have irregularities on the external surface of the cylinders (see photo for partially printed pin with irregularities).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's hard to tell for sure, but it appears that the hot end will occasionally move a piece of soft plastic it previously laid down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've tried decreasing print speed, travel speed, and layer height but I still get the irregularities.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What parameters are most likely to effect cylinder regularity?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TaUln.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TaUln.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Cylinder Irregularities&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="438" LastEditorUserId="438" LastEditDate="2016-02-07T00:40:45.640" LastActivityDate="2016-02-08T23:52:36.447" Title="What parameters affect cylinder regularity?" Tags="|print-quality|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="517" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="514" CreationDate="2016-02-07T09:04:15.960" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There isn't really a big advantage to one solution or the other. The approach of having separate boards means it is more modular and broken parts can be replaced more easily, but electronics don't break on their own: it is almost always user error. If you are even a tiny bit careful when assembling your electronics, you won't ever have anything break and the advantage of having modular electronics is moot. On the other hand, there's no disadvantage to using modular electronics either.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, another advantage of modular electronics is that you can upgrade separate components (for instance, swap in better stepper drivers). The value of this advantage depends on whether you eventually want to upgrade.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastEditorUserId="26" LastEditDate="2016-02-07T13:11:20.213" LastActivityDate="2016-02-07T13:11:20.213" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="518" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-07T14:13:33.580" Score="4" ViewCount="1797" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm using Cura with the Pronterface UI to slice/print and sometimes printing just stops - always in the first layer - when it happens the printing screen shows &quot;Waiting for user&quot;, when I press the button on the printer printing resumes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know when this happens, it just happens about once every 5-10 prints, when this happens if I close the printing window and immediately click &quot;print to usb&quot; to reopen it the problem doesn't repeat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This only happens with the Pronterface UI, it doesn't happen with Cura basic UI or when printing using an SD card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not using Pronterface isn't a good option because when I'm fine-tuning a model it much more convenient to send a test print from the computer and not copy the gcode to an SD card and print from the printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My printer is Robo3D R1+&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="170" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-04-25T10:08:51.270" LastActivityDate="2021-04-25T10:08:51.270" Title="What makes Pronterface wait for user?" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|robo-r1+|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="519" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="521" CreationDate="2016-02-07T15:03:18.640" Score="16" ViewCount="4029" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there anything I can do to improve the bottom side of surfaces that are printed on support?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I always try to rotate the model so that surfaces that need to look nice are on the sides or top, and, if possible I divide the model into smaller parts to minimize the amount of support.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But sometimes there is an object that has an irregular shape that need support no matter how I rotate it and can't be broken down into smaller objects with no support.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And then, after removing the support I get a very ugly ridged face that takes forever to sand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To clarify, I'm not asking about making supports easier to remove, I don't have a problem with this, I'm talking about making the surface that touched the support better looking after removing the support.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there anything I can do to improve the look of the face that is printed on supports?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm using Cura to do the slicing and printing, I'm using the &quot;lines&quot; support type, my printer is the Robo3D R1+&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="170" LastEditorUserId="43" LastEditDate="2016-02-07T19:27:44.213" LastActivityDate="2016-02-07T19:27:44.213" Title="How to improve face that are printed on support?" Tags="|print-quality|support-structures|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="520" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="343" CreationDate="2016-02-07T16:14:47.803" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;After installing a screen on my printer I discovered Pronterface is sending a &quot;Wait for user&quot; G Code to the printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because this changes the question too much and invalidates the existing answer I've asked a new question at &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/518/what-makes-pronterface-wait-for-user&quot;&gt;What makes Pronterface wait for user?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="170" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T13:00:58.447" LastActivityDate="2016-02-07T16:14:47.803" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="521" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="519" CreationDate="2016-02-07T17:30:29.193" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The basic answer to your question is to create better &lt;strong&gt;bridging&lt;/strong&gt; or &lt;strong&gt;overhangs&lt;/strong&gt; on your machine. Bridging is when you are printing between two solid pieces (like a bridge). Overhangs occur when printing off of a single solid piece and coming back. Most slicing engines allow extra settings for speed, fan power, etc for these parameters, just refer to this terminology.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A very common and simple solution in getting features to 3D print properly is to just slow down! If you're not a in a rush to get the part done, you bring down all of the feedrates in your slicing engine. MakerWare has mine at 90/150 mm/s for print and rapid. Typically I'll bring that down to about 50/90. My reasoning is the more time you give the plastic to cool, both while and after printing the layer, the more rigid that layer will be for the next one. When briding or overhanging, there will typically be a sagged area in the print. You can minimize this by providing the plastic more time to cool. Also keep in mind that printing on supports is still technically bridging (printing between two solid pieces).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another thing to keep in mind is adhesion from one layer to the next matter just as much between the current layer and the previous as the current strand to the one next to it. So, in some cases, increasing your shell could possibly make it easier for the infill/roof/floor strands.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="98" LastActivityDate="2016-02-07T17:30:29.193" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="522" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="526" CreationDate="2016-02-07T21:23:27.297" Score="37" ViewCount="89070" Body="&lt;p&gt;My printer has an auto-leveling feature that works by touching the build plate with the tip of the nozzle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I started using a BuildTak surface and BuildTak is damaged when you push a hot nozzle into it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I edited the start G-code to run the auto-leveling before heating up the hotend&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But ABS doesn't stick to the build surface unless I pre-heat the hotend and wait about a minute.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So now I'm looking for a G-code command to put at the end of the start G-code that will make the printer wait a minute before printing&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The sequence I'm looking for is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Heat up the bed&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Auto level&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Raise the hotend a little bit so it doesn't touch the build plate&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Heat up the hotend&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;Wait a minute (that's the only part that is missing, everything else works)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Start printing&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any way to insert a delay into the G-code?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm using Cura to slice/print, my printer is Robo3D R1+&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="170" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-08-02T19:30:38.630" LastActivityDate="2022-11-06T11:16:50.637" Title="Is there a G-code for waiting?" Tags="|g-code|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="523" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="522" CreationDate="2016-02-08T08:05:43.270" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;An alternative solution to using a hard delay with the &lt;a href=&quot;http://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#G4:_Dwell&quot;&gt;G4 dwell command&lt;/a&gt;, is to increase the time that the temperature set with &lt;a href=&quot;http://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#M109:_Set_Extruder_Temperature_and_Wait&quot;&gt;M109&lt;/a&gt; has to be held before it continues with the next command.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In Marlin, this setting is named &lt;code&gt;TEMP_RESIDENCY_TIME&lt;/code&gt;, and can be found around line 150 in &lt;code&gt;Configuration.h&lt;/code&gt;. By default, this is set to 5 seconds, which looks like:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;// Actual temperature must be close to target for this long before M109 returns success&#xA;#define TEMP_RESIDENCY_TIME 5  // (seconds)&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If increasing this setting solves your exact problem, I cannot say, but it could be worth looking into.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="115" LastActivityDate="2016-02-08T08:05:43.270" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="524" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="518" CreationDate="2016-02-08T14:13:13.983" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;That's the temperature problem that you've encountered.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The temperature of bed and hotend is reported every few seconds. Per default, first that sets is the bed temperature, then you need to wait for the bed to reach it, then warm up the hotend, and then start printing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="334" LastActivityDate="2016-02-08T14:13:13.983" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="525" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="516" CreationDate="2016-02-08T15:26:29.493" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is probably a result of bad quality filament. If you haven't changed much in your setups, haven't changed slicers, but may have changed spools, then this might be the result. I would try using another spool and perhaps switch suppliers. I know it's expensive and there seems to be a stigma around it, but MakerBot Industries provides quality PLA (some ABS also).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other than that, you've done some of what I would suggest in this case which are the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Speeds&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Layer height&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My only other suggestions would be:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check how level your build plate is&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check material requirements. ie ABS is ideal between 230-240C according to MSDS with about 110C build plate temp, PLA between 210-230C. Sometimes too hot of a hotend can result in overextrusion or ooze.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If the cylinder is smaller, try changing your slicing settings to have a time minimum for each layer. In my experience, a material like ABS will begin to flare out with variations in the print environment. When the material flares out, as the nozzle comes across the area again, the flared areas will be pushed aside. If you adjust your slicing settings to about 15 seconds (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.abcgroup3.com/toolbox/mold_cooling_calc.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;refer to this calculator&lt;/a&gt;), then the material will have time to cool slightly from its plastic state. You can cheat this slightly by adding another object somewhere further on the plate with the same height, since the time it takes to rapid to the area and print the layer might be enough time for cooling.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would also recommend doing &lt;a href=&quot;https://blog.pinshape.com/3d-printer-maintenance/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;some in depth maintenance&lt;/a&gt; to eliminate in obvious problems (such as cleaning your nozzle, rods, belts, etc.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="98" LastEditorUserId="98" LastEditDate="2016-02-08T23:52:36.447" LastActivityDate="2016-02-08T23:52:36.447" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="526" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="522" CreationDate="2016-02-08T17:15:01.823" Score="31" Body="&lt;p&gt;The G-code to delay is &lt;code&gt;G4&lt;/code&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;code&gt;G4 P60000&lt;/code&gt; will wait for one minute. The &lt;code&gt;P&lt;/code&gt; is in milliseconds. Some firmware also accept a &lt;code&gt;S&lt;/code&gt; Parameter that has the seconds. So, if supported, &lt;code&gt;G4 S60&lt;/code&gt; would do the same thing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The details for this and all other G-codes are documented&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://reprap.org/wiki/G-code&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="204" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-08-02T19:32:02.170" LastActivityDate="2018-08-02T19:32:02.170" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="527" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="383" CreationDate="2016-02-08T17:52:26.233" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You very likely have partial clog in your hotend (the side which is clogged is the angle the extruding filament bends to) or have some plastic somehow stuck on the nozzle surface which the extruding plastic almost sticks to, like two droplets of water merging into one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If its the latter, clean the hotend. It's easier to remove the plastic on it while its hot and soft, but don't burn yourself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it's a clog, that's more complicated.&#xA;First, you can make sure if it is indeed a clog or not by extruding into the air and measuring the wire with a caliper.&#xA;If it's thinner than it should be and your slicer settings are fine, then its a clog.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ways to get rid of clog:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) Replace the nozzle with a new one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) Break the clog with a sharp wire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3) Take the hotend off and clean the nozzle with acetone (&quot;acetone bath&quot;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;4) Blow torch on a removed nozzle. Dangerous thing to do for some but it works. If you're not confident or experienced to do this and the previous two solutions don't help, then go with option 1.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="381" LastActivityDate="2016-02-08T17:52:26.233" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="528" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-02-08T20:22:56.670" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;For questions related to troubleshooting and/or achieving a desired print quality through mechanical or software processing. For example: slicing engine settings, nozzle size, powder grit, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are looking for help to diagnose a problem, it helps when you can show the problem with a photo, and sometimes it also helps if you can show what your calibration cube or Benchy looks like (in case these are not as good as you assume).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="98" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2021-07-20T10:39:23.053" LastActivityDate="2021-07-20T10:39:23.053" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="529" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-02-08T20:22:56.670" Score="0" Body="Questions about troubleshooting and achieving certain print-quality. Please include photos of your problem, and also describe what the limits of your 'good' prints are." OwnerUserId="98" LastEditorUserId="4927" LastEditDate="2018-07-11T12:51:31.933" LastActivityDate="2018-07-11T12:51:31.933" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="530" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-02-08T20:25:11.313" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;For questions related to the human-readable machine language, G-Code. It is recommended to state which slicing engine you are using as machine manufacturers can provide their own flavor of G-Code depending on the capabilities of the machine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="98" LastEditorUserId="98" LastEditDate="2016-02-09T00:46:24.213" LastActivityDate="2016-02-09T00:46:24.213" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="531" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-02-08T20:25:11.313" Score="0" Body="Questions about the human-readable machine language, G-Code." OwnerUserId="98" LastEditorUserId="98" LastEditDate="2016-02-15T14:43:18.817" LastActivityDate="2016-02-15T14:43:18.817" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="532" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-02-08T20:27:16.193" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;For questions related to the component of an extrusion assembly called a nozzle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="98" LastEditorUserId="98" LastEditDate="2016-02-09T00:48:02.237" LastActivityDate="2016-02-09T00:48:02.237" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="533" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-02-08T20:27:16.193" Score="0" Body="Questions about an extrusion assembly's nozzle component" OwnerUserId="98" LastEditorUserId="98" LastEditDate="2016-02-09T00:47:08.463" LastActivityDate="2016-02-09T00:47:08.463" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="534" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-02-08T20:29:36.417" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;For questions related to industry best-practices while 3D printing with support structures. It is recommended you provide your slicing engine and type of machine (FDM,SLS,etc) to improve your question(s).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="98" LastEditorUserId="98" LastEditDate="2016-02-09T00:48:05.933" LastActivityDate="2016-02-09T00:48:05.933" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="535" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-02-08T20:29:36.417" Score="0" Body="Questions about techniques or troubleshooting support structures while 3D printing." OwnerUserId="98" LastEditorUserId="98" LastEditDate="2016-02-09T00:47:44.950" LastActivityDate="2016-02-09T00:47:44.950" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="536" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-02-08T20:31:29.187" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;For questions about troubleshooting slicing engines or how parts of the slicing operation works. It is recommended to provide your slicing engine (if available) to improve the quality of your question(s).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="98" LastEditorUserId="98" LastEditDate="2016-02-09T00:46:36.333" LastActivityDate="2016-02-09T00:46:36.333" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="537" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-02-08T20:31:29.187" Score="0" Body="Questions about slicing. Problems and challenges in the slicing process of models should use this tag." OwnerUserId="168" LastEditorUserId="168" LastEditDate="2016-06-10T13:32:32.043" LastActivityDate="2016-06-10T13:32:32.043" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="539" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="513" CreationDate="2016-02-09T17:27:39.600" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;My residential materials expert referred me to these links (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bofaamericas.com/3D-printing-fume-extraction.asp&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;3D Printing Fume Extraction Solutions&lt;/a&gt;, and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.3dprintfilemarket.com/140629194058.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;ABS 3d Printer Nanoparticle and Chemical Exhaust Air Filter&lt;/a&gt;) and thinks that you're pretty much on track with the idea of using activated carbon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We both primarily print with ABS with my Replicator Dual and what's worked enough for me (in the past 5 years) is to keep my printer next to a window or vent in my den at home. The window is obviously a good ventilation option, but the variability that it creates in the ambient temperature screwed with my prints. Later, I moved my machine into its own hutch, which, if it is an option, would greatly help the overall environment for both the machine and any stored filament.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We'll keep poking around, but hopefully that helps in the mean time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="98" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2016-12-04T09:37:00.490" LastActivityDate="2016-12-04T09:37:00.490" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="540" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="541" CreationDate="2016-02-09T19:47:43.250" Score="20" ViewCount="1529" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just added a fan to my printer because very small layers seem to come out very badly. For example, the 5mm PLA cube that's the top level of the test shape shown below. Watching closely, I can see that the newly-extruded fiber is pushing the previous layer(s?) around pretty freely. And when the object is finished, the little top cube is bulging, rounded, and still soft to the touch. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The 2nd-to-top level of the object is also quite small and quick, but often comes out nicely (if anything, it was better before I added the fan).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The fan is a squirrel-cage with about a 2.5cm square outlet, pointing at the nozzle from about 5cm away, running full speed. The extruder is a Mk9 from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.makergeeks.com/duexretopr.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.makergeeks.com/duexretopr.html&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also tried telling pronterface to wait if a level was too brief, but that setting seems not to do anything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What else can I try? It seems like this is a not-enough-cooling problem, but perhaps something else too?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rKDz8.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rKDz8.png&quot; alt=&quot;A sample step-cube&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastEditorUserId="98" LastEditDate="2016-06-09T02:11:24.003" LastActivityDate="2016-06-09T20:57:01.980" Title="Mushy small top layers?" Tags="|fdm|print-quality|maintenance|cooling|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="541" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="540" CreationDate="2016-02-09T20:06:04.913" Score="21" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Layer Times&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See my answer to &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/516/what-parameters-affect-cylinder-regularity&quot;&gt;this question&lt;/a&gt; and pay particular attention to my suggestion about a minimum layer print time. I'm not sure if all slicing engines provide this option, but I know MakerWare/MakerBot Desktop and (possibly) Slic3r allow this setting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically, when you're extruding smaller features like this, the previous layer(s) are still very hot and possibly very pliable. So, as your nozzle moves around above the previous layer, the nozzle may (and probably will) push some of this molten plastic around. Chances are you can see it to a certain degree while it's printing. You can definitely see this in a most drastic state if you print a tall and small diameter cylinder. You'll notice that the part will become almost exponentially unstable the higher it goes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By increasing the time your printer takes to print a single layer, you are allowing the previous layer(s) to cool closer to the ambient temperature of the build space, and hopefully not as molten.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please refer to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.abcgroup3.com/toolbox/mold_cooling_calc.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this calculator&lt;/a&gt; or a similar one for material cooling times. For a standard shell setting of about 2-3 (0.4mm nozzle) will yield about 130sec to cool down to room temperature. I would recommend (for ABS/PLA at least) about a 15second minimum for each layer, possibly longer depending on the size and spread out of the features.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also note that this can be cheated by simply printing multiple items in the same build plate with the same heights (ie. multiples of the same part). Naturally, it will take longer for the machine to print the rest of the parts and therefore allow each layer to cool slightly before being printed over.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Active Cooling&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Again, some slicing engines have an Active Cooling setting. I don't personally have this option setup on my machine, but I believe it regulates the flow of air directed at your nozzle (usually by use of a mounted fan). This can help cool the layers a bit faster. With ABS, this might result in some pretty bad warping mid-print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Feedrates&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Try bringing down your feedrates to provide the printed portions of the current layer more time to cool if the above options aren't available. Note that you might also bring down your hotend temp to shorten the time it takes to cool the plastic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;All else fails&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My only other suggestion is stated above, try printing duplicates on the same plate. My diagnosis is that the previous layers aren't cooling down enough before the next layer begins.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="98" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T13:00:58.447" LastActivityDate="2016-02-09T20:30:36.493" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="542" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="553" CreationDate="2016-02-09T20:56:38.667" Score="23" ViewCount="7802" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most electronics use micro-controllers like an AVR, but I'm seeing ARM chips in new electronics. ARM chips are said to be more powerful, but in what areas related to 3D printing could this help?  What are the features that the AVR struggles with and where an ARM could be better?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;High Speed movement? Delta printers? Graphic display?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And is the AVR really the limitation there?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="204" LastEditorUserId="614" LastEditDate="2016-02-18T15:27:55.723" LastActivityDate="2018-09-26T09:59:07.830" Title="What is the benefit of using an ARM based electronics?" Tags="|electronics|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="543" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-09T22:41:07.057" Score="9" ViewCount="130" Body="&lt;p&gt;My company has an old Dimension SST printer that is out of commission due to a few broken pieces. &#xA;I have contacted the Stratsys folk and they won't do anything until we purchase a multi-thousand dollar service policy. &#xA;I also have a Makerbot that I can use to create spare parts however, can't find pictures of the original configuration. &#xA;The broken pieces are the Toggle Bar and Z Foam Sensor and whatever parts used to hold them in place on the head. Toggle Bar circled in red &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Q6UEr.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Q6UEr.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt; View of my printer where the toggle bar used to be &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iGMcT.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iGMcT.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Two Questions:&#xA;Does anyone know of a location to purchase spare parts? &#xA;Does anyone have detailed pictures (360 view) of the print head they are willing to share so I can recreate the parts/attachments.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you so much for any help!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="495" LastActivityDate="2016-02-15T13:51:28.303" Title="Dimension SST Printer Broken parts" Tags="|replacement-parts|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="544" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="513" CreationDate="2016-02-09T22:56:41.610" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;It depends on how often you use your printer, meaning how many particles does your printer emit for time-unit. If you print nonstop with 5 printers then it's a different situation, opposite to one print per week.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Best material for passive filtering is carbon foam. It has the ability to capture chemical fumes. See this &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.freedrinkingwater.com/general-health/air/diff-types-of-air-filters.php&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;filter comparison&lt;/a&gt;.&#xA;Having an enclosure with such a filter would be a good start.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example &lt;a href=&quot;http://buzzbox.apogeescience.com/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;BuzzBox&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/guEjW.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/guEjW.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have to say that I don't know the particle size of 3d printing emission and how good the filtering ability of carbon foam is. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A step above is to bind such an enclosure bundled with an air purifier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The best option would be laboratory equipment. But it is the most expensive one. It is designed to filter toxic vapours, fumes, gases and particles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PTXLT.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PTXLT.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Update&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you decide to build an enclosure on your own, take a look on Prusa's  video on a DIY version build from Ikea table. There is no filtration system, but it should be simple enough to integrate a carbon foam with a ventilation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KQDCh.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KQDCh.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;video: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oS7ZtBNh2hE&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oS7ZtBNh2hE&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;blog post: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.prusaprinters.org/cheap-simple-3d-printer-enclosure/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.prusaprinters.org/cheap-simple-3d-printer-enclosure/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;3d models: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2864118&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2864118&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Update:&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is an article about DIY enclosures: &lt;a href=&quot;https://all3dp.com/2/3d-printer-enclosure-5-cheap-diy-options/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://all3dp.com/2/3d-printer-enclosure-5-cheap-diy-options/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="75" LastEditorUserId="75" LastEditDate="2018-10-05T11:43:25.430" LastActivityDate="2018-10-05T11:43:25.430" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="545" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="542" CreationDate="2016-02-10T00:34:46.600" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;Generally, AVR is in fact less powerful than many ARM cores used today. Most printers with AVRs don't have floating-point coprocessors, although a lot of the step and movement control can be done in integer-only math (except for G2/G3). Marlin can interrupt for step handling &lt;a href=&quot;http://softsolder.com/2013/06/04/marlin-firmware-stepper-interrupt-timing/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;up to 10000 times per second&lt;/a&gt; on AVR, translating to 40000 steps per second. This isn't particularly useful without mechanical components that can move at those speeds and still print meaningful results (or are far more precise and have a far higher step-count-per-mm at a similar speed).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Graphic display isn't a particularly taxing thing to do at &lt;em&gt;low&lt;/em&gt; speeds--high speeds or weird interfaces might require a bit more power or a dedicated interrupt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The times when ARM might be important are for more math-heavy and especially floating-point-heavy setups such as delta, where every move requires many floating-point and trig operations, and navigation in menus on a 16MHz AVR (atmega2560) &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/242/marlin-menu-navigation-slow-while-printing#comment294_242&quot;&gt;is described as&lt;/a&gt; &quot;painfully slow&quot;, but Marlin does succeed in printing meaningful results on delta-style printers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Clearly, an ARM core that is either faster at performing soft floating-point, or supports hardfloat (hardware that does floating point operations very efficiently) will see a benefit for such processes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="62" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T13:00:58.447" LastActivityDate="2016-02-10T00:34:46.600" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="547" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="542" CreationDate="2016-02-10T04:49:33.170" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Generally, microcontrollers such as the AVR are single core / single threaded - so while working in a while loop to run the motor controller, you might be lacking resources to do anything else, like navigate a menu efficiently.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many ARM processors now a days are multi core / multi threaded, meaning that you can have one thread working your print, while another is free for whatever else the user may want to do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;i.e. Any AVR processor running a local webserver to allow remote access to the printer would be painfully basic, where ARM would generally allow for much more flexibility.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="47" LastEditorUserId="264" LastEditDate="2016-02-10T16:28:51.533" LastActivityDate="2016-02-10T16:28:51.533" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="548" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-10T14:52:38.880" Score="9" ViewCount="632" Body="&lt;p&gt;Fair warning: I am a complete novice in 3-D printing. This will, hopefully, be the first thing I've ever printed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to make a Constant Velocity Joint for a camera stabilizer I'm making. I've been looking at different options, and it seems that a double cardan joint would be easiest to design/make/print. However, the intended use involves force being applied along the shaft, into the joint, which I think in a double cardan will cause &quot;buckling&quot; (forcing the joint into a 90° zig-zag). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, perhaps I'm wrong, but I don't see it rotating very smoothly (pretty essential for camera stabilization.) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So my next idea is a Tracta type, with bearings. The question is: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can you print bearings inside their housing? or do movable parts have to be printed separately? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="511" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-07-04T09:52:59.257" LastActivityDate="2018-07-04T09:52:59.257" Title="Printing a CV joint" Tags="|3d-design|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="550" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="548" CreationDate="2016-02-10T17:32:57.040" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Based on information provided in the comments I can say that yes, you can technically print bearings inside their housing. However, you must consider the capabilities of the technology.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Typically an FDM printer, such as a MakerBot Replicator, can yield undesirable results depending on how small you need the objects and how close each object is to another (ie bearings to the housing/each other). If you have a dual-extruding FDM printer, you could utilize a second support structure material. For example, you could print the bearings/housing in PLA and print the raft/supports using water soluble PVA. This provides a solid structure while printing without worry of having excess material in the housing (defeating the purpose of a bearing).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other hand, using the powder printer is most likely your best solution for creating the bearings (and less frustrating). Naturally, you will not need to worry about support structures as there is support inherently created as the powder is lain out for each layer. You just need to be sure that the tolerance of your model adhere to the capabilities of this machine and its post-processing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regardless of which technology you use, be sure that your design incorporates a means of allowing support material to be taken out after the print is complete.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="98" LastActivityDate="2016-02-10T17:32:57.040" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="551" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="540" CreationDate="2016-02-10T22:05:45.683" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I believe you might be having an issue with insufficient cooling. Remember the suggestion to have wait times per layer to let the previous layer cool? Well, I think with your setup and print not only do individual layers overheat, but individual parts of each layer. You either need to try more direct or dual fan cooling or maybe use a nozzle with thinner outer diameter which will have less surface to heat the layed down plastic surrounding it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="381" LastActivityDate="2016-02-10T22:05:45.683" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="552" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="542" CreationDate="2016-02-10T22:05:50.310" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;AVR processor has sufficient performance for standard printing. But it lacks performance for &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;delta printers (see &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/545/75&quot;&gt;hexafraction answer&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;display menu (it's terribly slow on my RepRap printer which uses ATmega2560)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;web interface (ethernet)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Comparison of technical specs should be self explaining. This particular ARM CPU is at least 10x faster opposite to ATmega2560: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;CPU &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.nxp.com/products/microcontrollers-and-processors/arm-processors/lpc-cortex-m-mcus/lpc-cortex-m3/lpc1700-series/512kb-flash-64kb-sram-ethernet-usb-lqfp100-package:LPC1769FBD100&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;ARM-Cortex M3 LPC1769&lt;/a&gt; (used in &lt;a href=&quot;http://smoothieware.org/smoothieboard&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Smoothieboard&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;CPU: &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/ARM_Cortex-M3&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Cortex-M3&lt;/a&gt;, 1 core&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;architecture: ARMv7-M (32-bit)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;frequency: 96-120 Mhz&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;memory&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Flash: 512 kB&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;RAM: 64 kB &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Microcontroller &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.atmel.com/devices/atmega2560.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;ATmega2560&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;architecture: 8-bit&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;frequency: 16 MHz&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;memory&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;flash Memory 256 KB of which 8 KB used by bootloader&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;SRAM: 8 KB&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;EEPROM: 4 KB&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="75" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T13:00:58.447" LastActivityDate="2016-02-10T22:05:50.310" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="553" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="542" CreationDate="2016-02-10T23:18:08.370" Score="24" Body="&lt;p&gt;3D printer controllers have to do a lot of stuff very, very fast. Performing kinematics and dynamics calculations while sending many thousands of precisely-synchronized step pulses per second is &lt;em&gt;really, really hard&lt;/em&gt;. The 8bit AVR line of microcontrollers used in older 3D printer controllers is basically a late-1990s era Mr Coffee processor. They are completely, utterly maxed out on processor time just executing basic printing functions in simple (eg Cartesian) printers, and adding additional calculation load will bog them down and cause slowdowns, stuttering, pausing, and so on. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;But my 8bit printer works fine,&quot; you say. No, it doesn't. Your print performance is limited by it, whether you realize it or not. Slicers now automatically hide a lot of the firmware's performance shortcomings from you. For example, the standard practice of greatly slowing down print speeds on perimeters is largely a result of 8bit processors having inadequate resources for two things:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Performing centripetal acceleration calculations for curves&#xA;across multiple gcode segments &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Keeping up with gcode transmission/processing and motion planning for gcode with lots of very small segments, such as in organic models or smooth arcs&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When presented with a series of very small segments in a smooth arc or complex curve, the 8bit firmware will likely choke on the required command processing rate and introduce stuttering to the print. These incredibly brief pauses allow residual pressure in the extruder to push out some extra plastic, making a little zit on the print. So most slicers automatically decimate curves and output gcode with reduced resolution to lighten the load on the firmware. Problem solved, right?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But there's another issue -- the GRBL motion control algorithms underlying all the major open source 3D printer controllers were designed with lots of shortcuts and hacks to allow 8bit processors to execute fast enough. For example, the basic algorithm only looks at the speed or velocity change at the corner between two segments, and uses that to decide when to decelerate/accelerate along the direction of motion. It does not calculate or consider centripetal/radial acceleration whatsoever. This is a really effective hack when printing boxy, low-res models, but it fails miserably on smooth curves with lots of little segments. The firmware does not detect any appreciable velocity change at the corner of any two nearly-linear segments within the faceted curve, and thus does not slow down for the curve. So complex geometry is effectively printed at constant velocity, with no acceleration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Printing complex perimeters unaccelerated means the commanded feedrate must be very low to get good quality. Most printers are limited to about 40mm/s or less on complex perimeters, despite being able to run perhaps 80-120mm/s on low-complexity infill before hitting other speed limits.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Between the command processing rate limits and motion planner shortcomings required by low power processors, print speeds must be much lower in practice than is strictly required by the physics and printer hardware. This all comes from 8bit processors. The workarounds and best practices to deal with this problem are so deeply baked into the toolchains and ecosystem that very few people realize there is even a problem. But it's a real limit that can be overcome: a high-speed processor running a more rigorous motion planner could generate higher average print speeds with &lt;em&gt;better&lt;/em&gt; print quality. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, the ARM-based firmwares are only slowly moving towards more advanced motion planners. This is a big development area right now that is actually driving an upcoming shift away from low-end ARMs like the Cortex M3 towards even faster processors. It's actually not all that hard to max out an 84 MHz Arduino Due by piling on a bunch of firmware features. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The use of 8bit processors also makes printers LOUDER. The biggest consumer of processor time in a typical 8bit printer is the stepper interrupt that fires the step pulses to make the motors move. It is quite typical for &gt;60% of all clock cycles on an Atmega AVR to go to firing step pulses. Because this occurs as an interrupt, other processing tasks that the printer must perform -- like acceleration calculations and heater control -- get squeezed into the brief spaces between stepper interrupt events. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Without careful firmware design, the step pulses will completely &quot;crowd out&quot; other functionality like LCD display updates and acceleration calculations. In order to allow higher motion rates without using all the processor resources, 8bit firmwares have a mode called &quot;step doubling&quot; that fires two (or four, or eight) step pulses per stepper interrupt so that half (or a quarter, or an eighth) as many stepper interrupts can be used to produce the same motion speed. This practice de-bottlenecks the processor, but it causes rougher and louder motor motion because the step pulses are fired in bursts rather than a constant frequency. In effect, the microstepping level of the motor is functionally dropped to a coarser mode when the stepper interrupt fires double or quad steps. So the motors get louder, less precise, and in extreme cases may have problems with resonance. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An interesting side effect is that if you switch a Marlin-based printer from 1/16 microstepping to 1/32 microstepping, and keep the same print speeds, the firmware will simply start step-doubling, dropping your effective microstepping level right back down to 1/16.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;ARM-based firmwares also use step doubling, but the allowable step rates are typically ~8 times higher before double/quad stepping is used. That can mean higher speeds and/or smoother motion. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another issue with 8bit AVRs is the lack of hardware floating point and need to spend many clock cycles on high-precision calculations or handling very large numbers. Delta kinematics, auto-leveling functions, calculating moves with extremely high step counts for large printers, and other advanced functionality all take a &lt;strong&gt;lot&lt;/strong&gt; of clock cycles on an 8bit processor. Poor firmware design or carelessly adding a feature that requires a few extra square roots and trig functions can completely bog down the processor. This kind of feature creep and code bloat has seriously impacted Marlin's performance over time as people ask more and more of the old AVR. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In comparison, a 32bit processor doesn't just have a faster clock and more clock cycles, it is also able to do much more complex math in fewer clock cycles, because it has dedicated hardware functionality that takes care of many of the steps an 8bit processor must do in software. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do 8bit processors work? Sure, they work surprisingly well for what they are and what we ask of them. But they unquestionably limit the performance and features of modern 3D printers. Even today's current generation of 32bit processors is already being maxed out by high speed printers and math-heavy features. The 8bit processor is already two generations behind what would qualify as a &quot;modern&quot; 3D printer controller. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="298" LastActivityDate="2016-02-10T23:18:08.370" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="554" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="569" CreationDate="2016-02-11T01:41:53.370" Score="13" ViewCount="3330" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to upload some of my works to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thingiverse.com/&quot;&gt;Thingiverse&lt;/a&gt; without making my real name public (displaying it on the profile page).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think it is OK to register my name to the site unless the make it public, and it is required by the terms to provide truthful and accurate information.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried creating an account on the site, but I deleted it because I couldn't find the way to hide my name (set another one) from the profile page in a short time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I see some accounts that doesn't seem showing their real name (for example, their name on profile equals to their account ID, or at least not in two parts: first and last name as required on registration), so I guess this is archivable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;examples:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thingiverse.com/Darkcheops/about&quot;&gt;http://www.thingiverse.com/Darkcheops/about&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thingiverse.com/ruaridh/about&quot;&gt;http://www.thingiverse.com/ruaridh/about&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/Torleif/about&quot;&gt;https://www.thingiverse.com/Torleif/about&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I set my name for profile page on Thingiverse after registration and logging in?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="519" LastActivityDate="2016-02-12T22:25:50.640" Title="How to upload my works to Thingiverse without making my real name public" Tags="|makerbot|3d-models|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="555" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="554" CreationDate="2016-02-11T08:14:22.033" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can put whatever name you want in when you make an account - You decide what your name is, people go by pseudonyms in 'real life' all the time, this is perfectly acceptable. There are actually very few places where you have a legal obligation to provide your name as it appears on your birth certificate. Opening a Thingiverse account is not one of them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To answer the other part of your question, yes, it is possible to change the name displayed after you have created your account. I would be surprised if they bother to actually keep an archive of past names though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="364" LastActivityDate="2016-02-11T08:14:22.033" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="556" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="475" CreationDate="2016-02-11T14:00:12.313" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had a repeatable problem where my prints were shifting to the side after about 5mm. This was down to a loose z-axis guide rail that would come out of its end support about 5mm into the print, but appeared secure when the bed was set to its initial position. (My print head moves down). There was a grub screw hidden below a panel at the base of my printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not familiar with the build of the MendelMax so this may be different for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastEditorUserId="4625" LastEditDate="2022-11-28T07:59:43.413" LastActivityDate="2022-11-28T07:59:43.413" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="557" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="558" CreationDate="2016-02-11T17:54:03.270" Score="6" ViewCount="85" Body="&lt;p&gt;What operating systems are available for running the Autodesk Spark Print Manager? (&lt;a href=&quot;https://spark.autodesk.com/developers/reference/printer-manufacturers/integrate-your-printer/integrate-your-printer-model&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://spark.autodesk.com/developers/reference/printer-manufacturers/integrate-your-printer/integrate-your-printer-model&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm finding the documentation a little difficult to parse. It does &lt;em&gt;seem&lt;/em&gt; that there are only build options for Windows or Mac, but I want to confirm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="266" LastActivityDate="2016-02-11T23:32:15.480" Title="Autodesk Spark Print Manager Operating Systems?" Tags="|print-api|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="558" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="557" CreationDate="2016-02-11T23:32:15.480" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I checked &lt;a href=&quot;https://spark.autodesk.com/developers/reference/desktop-applications/print-manager&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://spark.autodesk.com/developers/reference/desktop-applications/print-manager&lt;/a&gt;. It seems that Print manager is a application written in JavaScript and its source code is available on &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/spark3dp/print-manager&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;github&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So you have to install node.js to run it. So you can use all major OS (win, mac, linux, ...).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="75" LastActivityDate="2016-02-11T23:32:15.480" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="559" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-02-12T18:34:19.083" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;For questions regarding troubleshooting, best-practices, and technical specifications of plastic-type filament(s) used commonly in FDM/FFF style 3D printers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="98" LastEditorUserId="98" LastEditDate="2016-02-15T14:45:00.727" LastActivityDate="2016-02-15T14:45:00.727" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="560" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-02-12T18:34:19.083" Score="0" Body="Questions about standard print media for FDM/FFF printers." OwnerUserId="98" LastEditorUserId="98" LastEditDate="2016-02-15T14:42:46.917" LastActivityDate="2016-02-15T14:42:46.917" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="561" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-02-12T18:35:33.720" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;For questions regarding troubleshooting and best-practices in achieving desired surface finish of 3D printed parts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="98" LastEditorUserId="98" LastEditDate="2016-02-15T14:43:12.297" LastActivityDate="2016-02-15T14:43:12.297" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="562" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-02-12T18:35:33.720" Score="0" Body="Questions about achieving desired surface finish." OwnerUserId="98" LastEditorUserId="98" LastEditDate="2016-02-15T14:42:38.107" LastActivityDate="2016-02-15T14:42:38.107" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="563" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-02-12T18:37:32.883" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;For questions regarding troubleshooting, design, and best-practices in creating or using solid 3D models for 3D printing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="98" LastEditorUserId="98" LastEditDate="2016-02-15T14:44:19.450" LastActivityDate="2016-02-15T14:44:19.450" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="564" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-02-12T18:37:32.883" Score="0" Body="Use this tag for questions about 3D models." OwnerUserId="98" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-10-03T13:13:50.773" LastActivityDate="2018-10-03T13:13:50.773" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="565" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-02-12T18:39:30.847" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;For questions regarding troubleshooting, design, and best-practices of cooling either 3D printer mechanisms or 3D printed parts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="98" LastEditorUserId="98" LastEditDate="2016-02-15T14:44:13.567" LastActivityDate="2016-02-15T14:44:13.567" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="566" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-02-12T18:39:30.847" Score="0" Body="Questions about cooling 3D printers or 3D printed parts." OwnerUserId="98" LastEditorUserId="98" LastEditDate="2016-02-15T14:42:26.033" LastActivityDate="2016-02-15T14:42:26.033" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="567" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-02-12T18:42:01.757" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;For questions regarding troubleshooting and design of the extrusion mechanism commonly found in FDM/FFF style printers, the hotend.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="98" LastEditorUserId="98" LastEditDate="2016-02-15T14:42:29.183" LastActivityDate="2016-02-15T14:42:29.183" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="568" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-02-12T18:42:01.757" Score="0" Body="Questions about the standard extrusion mechanism found in FDM/FFF printers." OwnerUserId="98" LastEditorUserId="98" LastEditDate="2016-02-15T14:44:07.640" LastActivityDate="2016-02-15T14:44:07.640" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="569" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="554" CreationDate="2016-02-12T22:25:50.640" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;To change your displayed name (as opposed to username) in Thingiverse:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Go to your profile page&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Click &quot;Edit Profile&quot; on the info column on the left&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;At the top, next to &quot;Thingiverse Settings&quot; is another link/tab called &quot;Makerbot Settings&quot;. Click that.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Change the First Name and Last Name fields, and save.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that neither First nor Last Name is required; if neither is provided, your username will be displayed in place of your display name.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="131" LastActivityDate="2016-02-12T22:25:50.640" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="572" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="574" CreationDate="2016-02-13T20:50:47.553" Score="10" ViewCount="3246" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are many hot end designs out thee and one difference is the length of the melting zone. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The melting zone is that part of the hotend where the pushed in filament is heated up and therefore starts to melt. Is it better to have a short melting zone, or a long melting zone? What are advantages of each solution. And are there materials that benefit from a short/long melting one more than others?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="204" LastActivityDate="2021-12-01T19:40:38.130" Title="What is the best length of the melting zone in the hotend?" Tags="|hotend|3d-design|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="573" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="575" CreationDate="2016-02-13T21:17:30.833" Score="9" ViewCount="236" Body="&lt;p&gt;everyone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm a relative newcomer to 3D printing, so I don't know what constitutes an unacceptably bad spool of filament.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;About 1/6 of the way into a roll of PETG (and maybe 4 hours into a 6-hour print), an over/under wrap brought things to a screeching halt. I aborted the print, then snipped the filament and started unspooling it, looking for more cross-wraps. I found a ton of them, along with a ton of kinks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I stopped about 1/3 of the way into the spool, still finding kinks and cross-wraps, and said to heck with it. The only way to use it would have been to run the entire length onto another spool, carefully avoiding cross-wraps, and hope the kinks wouldn't affect the print quality.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I complained to the supplier but never even got a reply, so now I'm wondering if this is just one of those things I can expect from time to time. Any thoughts &amp;amp; opinions would be much appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cheers,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Glasseyed&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="539" LastEditorUserId="539" LastEditDate="2016-02-13T22:07:16.867" LastActivityDate="2018-09-14T00:45:38.623" Title="Gnarly filament: just one of those things, or grounds for complaint?" Tags="|filament-quality|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="574" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="572" CreationDate="2016-02-13T23:28:27.360" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;Short melting zone melts material in small amounts which is suitable for thin layers with small nozzles. In opposite, long melting zone can heat a big amount of filament which is needed for fast printing and thick layers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;short melting zone&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;less amount of melted material&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;thin layer heights&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;quality printing with details&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;give more precise volume control with less flow/pressure lag and better retraction performance (thx @Ryan-Carlyle)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;nozzles: 0.25-0.8 mm (available for E3Dv6)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;long melting zone&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;more amount of melted material&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;thick layer heights&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;fast printing with less details&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;nozzles: 0.4-1.2 mm (available for E3D Volcano)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Example&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Example of those hotends are E3Dv6 and E3D Volcano&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;E3Dv6&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WiRIv.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WiRIv.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;E3D Volcano with a much longer melt zone than v6&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LK5gZ.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LK5gZ.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Speed comparison video: &lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/_PQjwvWoGpk?start=0&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Speed comparison graph:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/o1Vbg.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/o1Vbg.png&quot; alt=&quot;e3d speed comparison graph&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Update&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;CNC Kitchen YouTube channel did a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ngpw0ojHODA&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;review of 0.1 mm nozzle&lt;/a&gt;, where the author discusses problems with very low material flow. The main point is the usage of high-quality materials (he uses Polymaker PolyMax PLA) and avoiding materials like PVA, which tend to crystalize under heat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="75" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-11-08T13:55:20.960" LastActivityDate="2021-11-08T13:55:20.960" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="575" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="573" CreationDate="2016-02-14T02:31:16.983" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Filament should come off of the roll without overlapping itself.  That being said depending on what you paid for it would determine if you should complain.  Normally you get what you pay for.  If you paid \$10 for it, I would think that is why it was so cheap, but if you paid &gt;\$25 it should be nice stuff.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="43" LastEditorUserId="5" LastEditDate="2018-09-14T00:45:38.623" LastActivityDate="2018-09-14T00:45:38.623" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="576" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="573" CreationDate="2016-02-14T03:52:08.100" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sorry to say it, but MOST wrap-unders are caused by end-users releasing the free end of the filament when handling the spool. It is mathematically impossible to introduce a knot during initial spooling, and all the reputable filament vendors these days have pretty careful free-end control when the spool is taken off the spooler and sent to packaging.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Where you may get knots straight from the filament vendor is if they're respooling very carelessly and let go of the free end. You should only see this with very cheap filament. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, it's possible that your vendor messed up, but you should probably rule out your own handling practices first. It's not hard to prevent losing the free end. The nicer spool styles these days have holes on the side-flanges for securing the free end during handling/storage. Or you can print one of many, many filament clip designs from Thingiverse or your favorite model site. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're very careful with handling and still get knots, switch suppliers. Anyone sloppy enough to repeatedly mis-handle new spools is likely also using extremely cheap material, and there have been a lot of anecdotal reports of very nasty industrial chemicals being mixed into the colorants of low-cost filament. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="298" LastActivityDate="2016-02-14T03:52:08.100" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="577" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-15T02:25:57.177" Score="3" ViewCount="1141" Body="&lt;p&gt;The print job connect to the database. When there is an idle printer, the print job directly goes to it. It need to connect with print server too. &#xA;How do i start? Can someone help me...&#xA;Thank you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="565" LastActivityDate="2016-02-15T03:54:31.790" Title="How to create a web-based PHP that can print to multiple printer(when idle) using silent printing" Tags="|desktop-printer|printer-building|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="578" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="577" CreationDate="2016-02-15T03:54:31.790" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd recommend starting with connecting your printer(s) to OctoPi. From there, try to find either an API or way to create your own plugin. Then just set up a workstation that will manage your print queue and delegate the prints using some form of web request.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I personally don't recommend creating your own slicing engine. If you want to do everything directly from &quot;the workstation&quot; try looking into Skeinforge (most popular from ReplicatorG slicer), Cura (I believe from Ultimaker), and/or Miracle Grue (from MakerWare) as your slicing engine. You can most documentation/source on GitHub.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the meantime, try to narrow down the general sense of &lt;strong&gt;how&lt;/strong&gt; you want to accomplish this and edit your question. As a reminder for more technical questions regarding code, please use Stack Overflow. For example, &quot;How to create/use REST request?&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="98" LastActivityDate="2016-02-15T03:54:31.790" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="579" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="543" CreationDate="2016-02-15T13:51:28.303" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Seeing as how no one has been able to find a solution yet and I'm not familiar with your machine, I would recommend reverse engineering the part to the best of your abilities. If you don't have the right tools, try finding a local machine shop and ask if you can use their measuring equipment. Sometimes you might get lucky and they will have something more intuitive than callipers, such as a CNC CMM or CMM Arm. As far as acquiring the part, try asking the machine shop if they can produce it, or get it 3D printed via 3D Hubs, MakeXYZ, or some other peer printing service.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm sorry I don't have a more direct solution, but hopefully it at least a general sense of what options you may have.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="98" LastActivityDate="2016-02-15T13:51:28.303" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="580" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-02-15T13:52:01.207" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://reprap.org/wiki/Arduino_Mega_Pololu_Shield&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;RepRap Arduino Mega Pololu Shield&lt;/a&gt;, or RAMPS for short, is an expansion shield for the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.arduino.cc/en/Main/arduinoBoardMega&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Arduino Mega&lt;/a&gt; designed to fit the entire electronics for a RepRap 3D printer in a small, low cost package. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;New with version 1.4 is the usage of surface mounted capacitors and resistors to increase the coverage of edge case issues. Also, unlike version 1.3, version 1.4 is no longer suited for easy home circuit etching.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additional information and a full list of features can be found at the &lt;a href=&quot;http://reprap.org/wiki/Arduino_Mega_Pololu_Shield&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;RAMPS RepRap Wiki page&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="115" LastEditorUserId="115" LastEditDate="2016-02-15T14:44:22.283" LastActivityDate="2016-02-15T14:44:22.283" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="581" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-02-15T13:52:01.207" Score="0" Body="For questions specifically related to the RAMPS 1.4 controller board - The RepRap Arduino Mega Pololu Shield, or RAMPS for short, is an expansion shield for the Arduino Mega designed to fit the entire electronics for a RepRap 3D printer in a small, low cost package. " OwnerUserId="115" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2022-03-08T10:06:25.520" LastActivityDate="2022-03-08T10:06:25.520" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="582" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="583" CreationDate="2016-02-15T16:26:24.543" Score="7" ViewCount="6553" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;I  was wondering if this printer(daVinci 1.0) had the ability to print very small objects, like insects, coins, or small nuts. (About the size of 1 -2 cubic centimeters)&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://us.xyzprinting.com/us_en/Product/da-Vinci-1.0-AiO&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Here&lt;/a&gt; is a link to the printer on the website.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason I ask is someone asked me if it was able to, but I have not been able to access the actual 3-D printer for use at this time, just manuals which I have looked through.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;So if the 3-D printer was able to print small objects, would a novice be able to do such a thing?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please let me know if any additional details are needed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="545" LastEditorUserId="545" LastEditDate="2016-02-15T23:22:59.453" LastActivityDate="2018-03-23T12:06:51.120" Title="How small can I expect FDM 3d printers to print?" Tags="|desktop-printer|print-quality|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="583" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="582" CreationDate="2016-02-15T17:04:20.973" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;1) If we're talking about FFF/FDM printers:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Accuracy of the electronics and motors allows it, yes.&#xA;But how FDM printers work it might be very hard to lay down layers of molten plastic so small as to preserve little details in the X and Y axis, not much of a problem doing 20 micron layer height though (Z resolution).&#xA;Check this answer to find out what the X and Y resolution is and what it depends on: &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/509/381&quot;&gt;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/509/381&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll need both a small enough nozzle, as well as somehow cool the plastic because since the printed objects are so tiny the nozzle keeps contact with the surface surrounding it and heats it longer, which might melt the whole object or even char it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've seen very few people do tiny prints with success. And the smallest nozzles I know are 250 micron.&#xA;Not trying to dscourage you, just letting you know. If it was easy to do I think more people would be doing it and more companies would be advertising their printers as capable of such a thing&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So you'll have around 20 micron Z resolution and around maybe 200 in the X/Y.&#xA;If that's enough for you, then you could try. Calibrating it all won't be easy, tiniest backlash will be noticeable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) It's a lot easier with curing resin 3d printers (SLA or DLP). Most of them actually have trouble printing larger objects, ironically (trouble sticking to the bed and cracking of the 3d print).&#xA;Even here badly calibrated lasers would prevent you from doing this and even many Form 1 users have reported their lasers being assembled poorly resulting in poor beam profile.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Size of the laser beam profile (aka laser &quot;spot size&quot;) is what determines the X/Y resolution for SLA 3d printers. With the Form 2 its 140 micron, unless you'll get a badly calibrated printer.&#xA;For DLP printers it's easier, it's the resolution of the DLP projector divided from the size of the print area.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="381" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T13:00:58.447" LastActivityDate="2016-02-15T17:37:10.963" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="584" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="582" CreationDate="2016-02-15T17:35:28.813" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Strictly by looking at the technical specifications of an FDM printer, there are a few things to note regarding the &lt;em&gt;maximum print quality&lt;/em&gt; you can expect to achieve:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The &lt;strong&gt;minimum layer height&lt;/strong&gt;  - here given to be &lt;em&gt;0.1 mm&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The &lt;strong&gt;nozzle diameter&lt;/strong&gt;  - here given to be &lt;em&gt;0.4 mm&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Minimum layer height:&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On a finished print, the minimum layer height will affect how visible the horisontal lines of the print will be. Printing at a lower layer height can dramatically increase the smoothness of the finished part, while equally increasing the printing time - among several other things.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A minimum layer height of 0.1 mm is fairly common for low-cost desktop FDM printers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Nozzle diameter:&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just like the layer height defines the vertical resolution of a print, the nozzle diameter defines the sharpness of horizontal features of a print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When printing with a large nozzle diameter, all sharp edges and corners of the model will have a slight roundness to them: the larger the nozzle diameter, the more rounded sharp corners will be, and vice versa. You might think of it as making a detailed drawing with a blunt pencil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A nozzle diameter of 0.4 mm can perhaps be considered the standard for desktop FDM printers today, and will allow you to print &amp;quot;fairly accurate&amp;quot; parts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Will the daVinci work for you?&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since I've never worked with the daVinci printer before, I cannot make a statement on it's user friendliness, or actual performance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In general, if you intend to use it to print fragile, complex models such as insects, I believe a resin based printer might be more right for you, since they typically will allow for much higher reproduction of details than FDM printers. Printing solid/compact structures like coins and nuts, on the other hand, can typically be handled by a well calibrated FDM printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="115" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:29:41.667" LastActivityDate="2016-02-15T17:35:28.813" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="585" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="573" CreationDate="2016-02-15T18:03:24.757" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Knot happens when you loosen the filament yourself and then leave it like that or try to manually re-spool it.&#xA;To avoid this kind of situation as well as the curly filament coming off the spool and getting tangled there, try to not loosen it and also build or print a &quot;spool guide&quot; for your 3d printer: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thingiverse.com/search/page:1?q=filament+spool+guide&amp;amp;sa=&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.thingiverse.com/search/page:1?q=filament+spool+guide&amp;amp;sa=&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="381" LastActivityDate="2016-02-15T18:03:24.757" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="587" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="445" CreationDate="2016-02-16T17:57:57.167" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can use &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.openscad.org/&quot;&gt;OpenSCAD&lt;/a&gt;. It's a script based powerful CAD open source software under GPL. &#xA;On Thingiverse, a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thingiverse.com/search/prolific/things?q=&amp;amp;search_mode=advanced&amp;amp;description=&amp;amp;username=&amp;amp;tags=Customizer&amp;amp;license=&quot;&gt;lot of things are&lt;/a&gt; made with this CAD software (the &lt;code&gt;Customizer&lt;/code&gt; flagged ones) and you can just download their source code (&lt;code&gt;.scad&lt;/code&gt;) and directly edit them !&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also import existing STL and edit them like they were a primitive shape like a cube. You can then interact with them by doing binary operations, adding parts, etc. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is hard to start with if you have never coded, but that's worth it :&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;OpenSCAD is a software for creating solid 3D CAD models. It is free software and available for Linux/UNIX, Windows and Mac OS X. Unlike most free software for creating 3D models (such as Blender) it does not focus on the artistic aspects of 3D modelling but instead on the CAD aspects. Thus it might be the application you are looking for when you are planning to create 3D models of machine parts but pretty sure is not what you are looking for when you are more interested in creating computer-animated movies.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="585" LastActivityDate="2016-02-16T17:57:57.167" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="588" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="589" CreationDate="2016-02-16T18:37:23.413" Score="6" ViewCount="3905" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got a dead MakerBot Replicator Dual and I'm not really interested in fixing it with about half the parts being proprietary, discontinued, and therefore very expensive. So, I'm wondering if it's possible to use a controller board used on some of the other RepRap machines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd assume that it's all relatively the same, mostly need a means of routing/regulating power to the servos/fans/etc. based on a g-code. If that's true, then I'm also assuming the next step is ensuring the slicing engine spits out the right format for the board (.s3g, .x3g, .gcode, etc.) and that the slicing engine knows the proper bounds for the machine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Side question, if I used an another controller board, would I be able to still run MakerWare/MakerBot Desktop? So far, I've preferred the MiracleGrue slicer, but I've used Cura on Octopi and it'd suffice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="98" LastEditorUserId="98" LastEditDate="2016-03-21T22:47:54.077" LastActivityDate="2021-01-22T14:50:22.840" Title="Is it possible to use an aftermarket controller on a MakerBot?" Tags="|fdm|makerbot|replicator-dual|makerware|fff|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="589" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="588" CreationDate="2016-02-16T22:49:17.853" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can put pretty much any controller in pretty much any printer, with a few noteworthy details you need to keep in mind for a Replicator 1.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Makerbots use thermocouples. Most RepRap style 3d printers use thermistors. So you would need to replace the extruder temp sensors, or choose a new controller with thermocouple support. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Makerbots use 24v heaters and fans and PSUs. Most RepRap style 3d printers run on 12v (although this is slowly changing because 24v is better for performance and safety.) You can either pick a new controller that is known to be compatible with 24v, or replace all 24v-rated components with equivalent 12v-rated components. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The existing heatbed thermistor circuit is probably not the same kind of circuit that your new controller will expect. Older Makerbots use a small voltage divider circuit on the HBP PCB to convert the thermistor resistance to a voltage signal, whereas RepRap style controllers typically have this circuit on the mainboard and thus need only a simple thermistor hookup. You could add a new thermistor, or modify the existing circuit, or get an entirely new heatbed. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The existing endstops are full +5v,GND,Signal style mechanical switches with debounce capacitors and LED indicators. These &lt;em&gt;should&lt;/em&gt; be compatible with &lt;em&gt;most&lt;/em&gt; controller boards given proper firmware setting, but you may need to do some creative wiring if there isn't a suitable three-pin endstop port on your chosen board.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The LCD and 5-button panel will not work with other boards. You'll need to replace that or just run a remote host via USB.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Connectors may be different, of course. That's always an issue with any board swap. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You will need to export RepRap style gcode instead of .x3g files. Makerware/Desktop can export gcode but there may be some minor differences in Mcode assignments from what most RepRap style firmware will expect. I couldn't tell you offhand whether this will work, but to be safe, it would probably be best to use a more traditional RepRap slicer (Slic3r, Cura) or Simplify3D.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So that's a healthy to-do list. At a certain point you're practically building a new printer. &lt;strong&gt;But there is a significantly easier approach&lt;/strong&gt; than installing a RepRap style controller: replace the dead Makerbot Mightyboard with a compatible community-designed Sailfish board like the Azteeg x3 by Panucatt or new CloneBoard Mini by Carl Raffle. Or, if you're ok with Chinese sourcing, a FlashForge Mightyboard will be a near 100% drop-fit replacement for your Makerbot Mightyboard. Any of these options will give you fresh new electronics with minimal hardware changes in the rest of the printer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Either way is fine and you'll end up with a working printer. Using another Sailfish board will certainly be easier, if you don't object to staying within the Sailfish/x3g toolchain and Makerbot/Clone parts ecosystem. Makerbot does have a very bad community reputation these days, but it's important to remember that the Replicator 1 Dual is a completely open-source machine from the &quot;pre-evil&quot; days, and compatible spare parts are widely available from literally dozens of vendors. The Rep1-derived Makerbots and Clones collectively comprise the most popular single &quot;flavor&quot; of 3d printer in the world (totaling as much as perhaps a quarter of all consumer/hobbyist 3d printers sold to date) and many/most of the spare parts for Replicator 2/2x's and clones will also fit in a genuine Rep1. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="298" LastActivityDate="2016-02-16T22:49:17.853" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="590" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="593" CreationDate="2016-02-17T00:27:13.077" Score="-4" ViewCount="241" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am wondering if I can get some electronic and mechanical layout of the machine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it possible to make 3D printer components with 3D printer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="592" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2017-02-14T05:34:14.137" LastActivityDate="2017-02-14T05:34:14.137" Title="How to make your own 3D printer?" Tags="|printer-building|reprap|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2016-02-17T14:01:55.947" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="591" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="442" CreationDate="2016-02-17T07:55:42.360" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A sintered metal printer is a version of a 3D printer that is rapid, but expensive. Seen 1 for 800,000$aud&#xA;Uses laser to melt metal particles like titanium.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="597" LastActivityDate="2016-02-17T07:55:42.360" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="592" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="78" CreationDate="2016-02-17T13:15:41.837" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;My very first thought was you didn't re-calibrate your Z0 after adding the blue tape. It sounds like the print head was too close to the print bed to begin with, and adding the blue tape just made it that much worse. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="265" LastActivityDate="2016-02-17T13:15:41.837" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="593" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="590" CreationDate="2016-02-17T13:19:42.413" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, look at &lt;a href=&quot;http://reprap.org&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://reprap.org&lt;/a&gt; for a project that's been doing what you're asking about for about a decade now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="265" LastActivityDate="2016-02-17T13:19:42.413" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="594" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="595" CreationDate="2016-02-17T14:42:23.657" Score="2" ViewCount="520" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've heard alot about the need for ventilation when using 3D Printers lately.  Is there any special sort of filter that would prevent the toxic gases from leaking out of the printer while it's printing it's filament?  Is printing outside a solution while I build an enclosure?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastActivityDate="2016-02-17T15:50:53.010" Title="What kind of filter do I need for the enclosure of a 3d printer?" Tags="|filament|abs|pla|ventilation|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2016-02-23T15:31:11.570" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="595" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="594" CreationDate="2016-02-17T15:21:30.003" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;For the most part, a consumer 3D Printer will only need proper ventilation when using potentially harmful materials such as ABS. (&lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/513/what-are-the-best-air-filtration-options-for-enclosures/&quot;&gt;See duplicate question&lt;/a&gt;). If you're printing with primarily PLA, then you don't need to worry. I print mostly with ABS and keep my machine close to a window and I haven't experienced any issues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="98" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T13:00:58.447" LastActivityDate="2016-02-17T15:50:53.010" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="596" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="512" CreationDate="2016-02-17T16:19:23.127" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ensure that firmware has proper thermistor configuration. For details see &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2RbcMvhatjU&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this video tutorial&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Verify that your thermistor works properly. Measure voltage on it. It should be around 5V on this particular board.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There is possibility that the board is defective. Replace it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Temperature sensor possibilities for &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/blob/RC/Marlin/Configuration.h&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Marlin firmware&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;// -2 is thermocouple with MAX6675 (only for sensor 0)&#xA;// -1 is thermocouple with AD595&#xA;// 0 is not used&#xA;// 1 is 100k thermistor - best choice for EPCOS 100k (4.7k pullup)&#xA;// 2 is 200k thermistor - ATC Semitec 204GT-2 (4.7k pullup)&#xA;// 3 is Mendel-parts thermistor (4.7k pullup)&#xA;// 4 is 10k thermistor !! do not use it for a hotend. It gives bad resolution at high temp. !!&#xA;// 5 is 100K thermistor - ATC Semitec 104GT-2 (Used in ParCan &amp;amp; J-Head) (4.7k pullup)&#xA;// 6 is 100k EPCOS - Not as accurate as table 1 (created using a fluke thermocouple) (4.7k pullup)&#xA;// 7 is 100k Honeywell thermistor 135-104LAG-J01 (4.7k pullup)&#xA;// 71 is 100k Honeywell thermistor 135-104LAF-J01 (4.7k pullup)&#xA;// 8 is 100k 0603 SMD Vishay NTCS0603E3104FXT (4.7k pullup)&#xA;// 9 is 100k GE Sensing AL03006-58.2K-97-G1 (4.7k pullup)&#xA;// 10 is 100k RS thermistor 198-961 (4.7k pullup)&#xA;// 11 is 100k beta 3950 1% thermistor (4.7k pullup)&#xA;// 12 is 100k 0603 SMD Vishay NTCS0603E3104FXT (4.7k pullup) (calibrated for Makibox hot bed)&#xA;// 13 is 100k Hisens 3950  1% up to 300°C for hotend &quot;Simple ONE &quot; &amp;amp; &quot;Hotend &quot;All In ONE&quot;&#xA;// 20 is the PT100 circuit found in the Ultimainboard V2.x&#xA;// 60 is 100k Maker's Tool Works Kapton Bed Thermistor beta=3950&#xA;//&#xA;//    1k ohm pullup tables - This is not normal, you would have to have changed out your 4.7k for 1k&#xA;//                          (but gives greater accuracy and more stable PID)&#xA;// 51 is 100k thermistor - EPCOS (1k pullup)&#xA;// 52 is 200k thermistor - ATC Semitec 204GT-2 (1k pullup)&#xA;// 55 is 100k thermistor - ATC Semitec 104GT-2 (Used in ParCan &amp;amp; J-Head) (1k pullup)&#xA;//&#xA;// 1047 is Pt1000 with 4k7 pullup&#xA;// 1010 is Pt1000 with 1k pullup (non standard)&#xA;// 147 is Pt100 with 4k7 pullup&#xA;// 110 is Pt100 with 1k pullup (non standard)&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="75" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-06-11T09:21:49.423" LastActivityDate="2019-06-11T09:21:49.423" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="597" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="598" CreationDate="2016-02-17T23:19:15.463" Score="-2" ViewCount="198" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is the cheapest (&lt;strong&gt;desktop&lt;/strong&gt;) 3D printer that you can get right now?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a current price list (with different vendors)? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="611" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2017-02-14T10:43:35.890" LastActivityDate="2017-02-14T10:43:35.890" Title="What is the cheapest 3D printer that you can get right now?" Tags="|desktop-printer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ClosedDate="2016-02-25T18:47:56.647" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="598" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="597" CreationDate="2016-02-18T00:39:14.053" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The peer-based 3D printing service called &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.3dhubs.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;3D Hubs&lt;/a&gt; conducted a survey of its users and which printers they use and suggest. This survey's results are &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.3dhubs.com/best-3d-printer-guide?utm_source=customerio&amp;amp;utm_medium=email&amp;amp;utm_campaign=hubs_surveyed&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I recall a similar Google Group conducting a similar survey a year or so ago, I'll search for the link to that as well a little later.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="98" LastActivityDate="2016-02-18T00:39:14.053" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="599" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="601" CreationDate="2016-02-18T02:52:21.660" Score="10" ViewCount="1767" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am considering buying a 3D printer for work (scientific research). On paper, the Makerbot 5th generation seems to be the best option, because the price is right for my budget, and also because I'm generally pretty busy, so I want something that's as close to &quot;plug and play&quot; as reasonably possible. This will be my first 3D printer and I have no prior experience with the technology.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, any search for &quot;Makerbot&quot; brings up a raft of negative reviews from around the time of the 5th generation's first release, which mostly focus on issues with the smart extruder constantly failing and needing to be replaced under warranty. Many of these reviews point out that this may be an initial &quot;teething&quot; issue which might be fixed in later versions of the model, but now, one year later, I'm unable to find any information about whether this was indeed the case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So: are the initial issues with the Makerbot 5th generation's smart extruder generally considered resolved, or is it an underlying flaw of the model that won't be fixed until the next generation?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sub&gt;I imagine that people might want to suggest alternative models in the same price range. That would be welcome, but I have an extra constraint, which is that I can only buy models that are available in Japan without a long delivery time - this probably limits my options quite a bit.&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="612" LastActivityDate="2020-01-09T08:09:40.387" Title="Are the Makerbot 5th generation's initial issues resolved" Tags="|makerbot|extruder|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="600" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="599" CreationDate="2016-02-18T03:18:08.090" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I got (with no prior experience) a 5th generation model soon after its release and indeed had painful troubles with the extruder and had it replaced under warranty. Firmware from late 2014 on has produced much better results.&#xA;It still needs far more work than -- say -- a laser printer, but that might be simply part of the technology.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Overall thus my answer is &quot;yes&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also just noted this week that Makerbot is about to rebase an improved Extruder+ that claims to further reduce clogging problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="39" LastActivityDate="2016-02-18T03:18:08.090" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="601" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="599" CreationDate="2016-02-18T03:45:43.047" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Makerbot claims the problems are fixed. I have heard from a number of resellers that the problems are fixed. Unfortunately, both of those are somewhat biased sources. It's surprisingly hard to get good info on the subject -- very few credible people are talking about recent experiences with the product line. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Issue #1:&lt;/strong&gt; The main surviving user forum (&lt;a href=&quot;https://groups.google.com/forum/#!forum/makerbot-users&quot;&gt;https://groups.google.com/forum/#!forum/makerbot-users&lt;/a&gt;) has had the torrent of people reporting 5th gen issues more or less dry up. There ARE still people posting issues, but at a fairly low level that is not far outside what you would expect for an average hobbyist printer. What we DON'T know is whether the flood of complaints has slowed because they're working better, or because very few people are actually buying them any more. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Issue #2:&lt;/strong&gt; The power-users and community leaders that typically evaluate and review 3d printers are all avoiding the 5th gen line like the plague. Makerbot burned up a lot of community good-will by going closed source with the Replicator 2, and lost more good-will through a series of misunderstandings over patent applications and the Thingiverse terms of service (Takerbot scandals), and put the nail in the coffin by &lt;strong&gt;knowingly&lt;/strong&gt; releasing a non-functional 5th gen product line. Very few credible people are willing to give them a chance at this point, so there is a severe shortage of unbiased reviews.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Issue #3:&lt;/strong&gt; Makerbot has a proven history of buying off journalists and reviewers to get positive 5th gen press. Some verifiable examples:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hundreds of fake 5-star Amazon reviews from paid review accounts. A relevant analysis: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.amazon.com/review/R2JI8LRRXZYNX1/&quot;&gt;http://www.amazon.com/review/R2JI8LRRXZYNX1/&lt;/a&gt; (Not verified, but related: a widely-believed rumor states that the German Amazon site actually wiped all of Makerbot's 5th Gen reviews because of blatant tampering: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.amazon.de/MakerBot-MP05825-Replicator-5th-H%C3%B6he/dp/B0183TP806/&quot;&gt;http://www.amazon.de/MakerBot-MP05825-Replicator-5th-H%C3%B6he/dp/B0183TP806/&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The CES awards initially given to the 5th Gen line were given before Makerbot had functional firmware. None of the 5th Gens at the CES launch were functional. All demo prints shown were made on Replicator 2s. How could a non-functional product win awards? Not hard to figure that one out. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Historical positive press in the 3DP journalism media (3ders, Make Magazine, etc) has been directly proportional to the volume of ad-buys from Makerbot or the parent company Stratasys. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I could keep going, but you get the idea. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So it's hard to evaluate the reality of the situation. &lt;strong&gt;But even IF the Smart Extruder issues are truly all fixed&lt;/strong&gt; (jams, leveling issues, thermocouple connection, filament encoder failures, etc), &lt;strong&gt;there are still meaningful problems with the product line.&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The print quality is not impressive. The motion mechanics, which have not been appreciably changed to my knowledge, are not great. The Smart Extruder is basically a giant pendulum wobbling off the side of a non-optimal gantry selection of an H-bot architecture. Makerbot has addressed the floppy construction via firmware tweaks to significantly slow down the machine to give marginally-acceptable print quality. According to most reports I have seen, a Replicator 5th Gen will print significantly slower than a Replicator 2, for example. Expect in the neighborhood of perhaps 30-40% longer print times than comparable printers.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The price tag is roughly double or even triple the current market price for the size and print quality output of the machine. There are so many great printers on the market now for significantly less money that it's kind of nuts to drop the cash on a Makerbot.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It is marketed as a PLA-only machine. That's fine if you're printing art and trinkets, but it's not a great option for mechanical parts. While you CAN print other materials, this is not technically supported. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The support plan structure has quite frankly become abusive. Makerbot used to have really helpful phone tech support, but the crushingly massive volume of 5th gen troubleshooting requests forced them into a paid tech support model. Around the same time, Makerbot shut down their user community forum and deleted links to external technical resources off their website. So unless you know the right places to go, support is scarce. For official tech support you must buy &quot;Makercare&quot; or pay for each help ticket. This is completely out of line with industry norms for a hobbyist/consumer 3d printer. They essentially took their biggest liability -- unreliable printers -- and tried to twist it into a profit center. I personally think this is a significant reason to avoid the company entirely.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it possible to get good results from a Replicator 5th Gen? Sure. But it's a poor value for the cost, from a company that has spent the last few years systematically driving away its former loyal user base. I would recommend staying away until there's some significant change in the product line at minimum.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="298" LastActivityDate="2016-02-18T03:45:43.047" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="602" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="445" CreationDate="2016-02-18T12:45:12.500" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have used Wings 3D (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wings3d.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.wings3d.com&lt;/a&gt;) for just that purpose. It is very easy to use, and has many other useful functions built in. Not only can you reform the mesh, but you also you have the ability to import and export many other meshes such as .obj, and etc. When you have completed your modifications you can export them in one of several formats (I find it easier to just keep it in .stl) and then use netfab (also has a free version with some limitations as compared to the paid version) to fine tune the mesh if it is not printable in its current format. Wings will export your modifications in .stl format, but you may have to fine tune to get rid of holes blemishes and etc., and you can view your changes in several views such as Gaussian and other forms. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you decide to try Wings 3D you need to go through the tutorials, since there is a multitude of possibilities, including making your own meshes, beginning with several basic forms such as squares, cubes, cylinders and several other basic geometrical figures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using these two programs I have been able to modify many meshes and arrive at a very printable object. One of the features of Wings which has been quite valuable is the smoothing app which reduces the sharp division lines on some models.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since both programs are free you can try them and uninstall them if they do not fill your needs. Blender is also an excellent free program, but I find Wings to be much simpler to use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="442" LastEditorUserId="376" LastEditDate="2016-02-19T19:05:05.370" LastActivityDate="2016-02-19T19:05:05.370" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="603" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-18T15:14:56.080" Score="7" ViewCount="1410" Body="&lt;p&gt;Due to a not-given compatibility with Makerbot mechanical endstop wiring (and carelessness on my side) I ended up burning the voltage regulator on my Arduino Mega 2560. Now, powering the Arduino separately from a USB power supply, I can operate the electronics, however, I am still unable to receive any signal from the endstops and I don't want to hook up my replacement Arduino until I see that my wiring is correct.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could I have burnt anything else on either the Arduino (pullup resistors were firmware disabled) or the RAMPS 1.4 which makes it impossible to receive a singal from the endstops?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="168" LastActivityDate="2018-02-26T20:01:36.290" Title="Using an Arduino Mega with burnt voltage regulator" Tags="|reprap|ramps-1.4|electronics|arduino-mega-2650|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="604" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="603" CreationDate="2016-02-18T15:27:07.420" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Take a look at Ryan's answer to &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/588/is-it-possible-to-use-an-aftermarket-controller-on-a-makerbot&quot;&gt;my question&lt;/a&gt;. I believe the MightBoard is based on the Mega 2560, so it is possible that some of the other components could have been damaged. If you look at the comments below Ryan's answer, we discussed the possibility of the processor itself being damaged. I had attempted &lt;a href=&quot;http://coolate.com/blog/blog/2015/02/23/its-alive-makerbot-replicator-repaired/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this fix&lt;/a&gt; on two different MightBoards and they both ended up turning on, but the firmware wouldn't boot. So, it's safe to say that in my case, the processor on the Arduino was shot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All and all, I'd recommend not using MakerBot's endstops as they seem to be the main culprit for this issue and has been for years (it happened to me twice since I got my machine in 2012).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="98" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T13:00:58.447" LastActivityDate="2016-02-18T15:27:07.420" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="605" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="606" CreationDate="2016-02-19T05:42:02.453" Score="2" ViewCount="967" Body="&lt;p&gt;While I've worked on fixing my voltage regulator on my MightyBoard, I've noticed an extra set of pins available labeled &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.geeetech.com/wiki/images/thumb/8/88/Signal_polarity_scheme_Of_mightyboard.png/500px-Signal_polarity_scheme_Of_mightyboard.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot; title=&quot;Atmega 1280 IO&quot;&gt;Atmega 1280 IO&lt;/a&gt;. I've tried finding documentation on what these pin can be used for to no avail. I'm curious if there is any use for them within the scope of MakerBot's Conveyor service or even what sort of functionality with regard to the board itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any links to documentation on this subject would be greatly appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="98" LastEditorUserId="98" LastEditDate="2016-03-21T22:45:45.427" LastActivityDate="2016-03-21T22:45:45.427" Title="What is the MightyBoard 1280 IO used for?" Tags="|makerbot|mightyboard|arduino-mega-2650|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="606" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="605" CreationDate="2016-02-19T06:05:27.633" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you check the Mightyboard RevE files on Thingiverse (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:16058/#files&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:16058/#files&lt;/a&gt;) you will find the schematics and PCB files (.sch and .brd) for the version of the board used in Replicator 1s and (with some minor mods) most clones. The Atmega 1280 IO header section is a bunch of breakout pins for debug functions. There are eight sets of signal/5v/gnd groupings. Four of them are currently driving debug LEDs that show flash codes for particular firmware failure modes. The other four are unused as far as I'm aware. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The ninth and tenth pins shown in the schematic are located on the opposite end of the board, near the 8U2 chip, to give some hacking access to that chip as well. (The 8U2 handles USB comms and firmware flashing the Atmega 1280.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ilFja.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ilFja.png&quot; alt=&quot;Schematic excerpt&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If desired, you can build your own firmware using these pins for other purposes, such as signaling to external equipment. But building Sailfish is a little more difficult than just running the latest Arduino IDE (for compiler stability reasons) so the vast majority of Mightyboard users never bother modifying their firmware.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="298" LastActivityDate="2016-02-19T06:05:27.633" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="608" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="445" CreationDate="2016-02-19T20:55:33.527" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you want a WYSIWYG-style editor and are not content with OpenSCAD, I found 123D Design (Autodesk, definitively not FOSS but free for hobbyists) to have (on a Mac) a compromise between power and ease of use that most appealed to me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you insist on FOSS probably Blender comes closest, but I found it to be too idiosyncratic in interface and tools to be usable. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="39" LastActivityDate="2016-02-19T20:55:33.527" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="609" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-19T21:59:05.127" Score="2" ViewCount="95" Body="&lt;p&gt;I teach in a high school that has a MakerBot printer. I was looking at the Retouch3D tool. I'd like to know some pros/cons from people who have used it themselves. Would you say it is worth getting for a high school?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="633" LastActivityDate="2016-02-19T21:59:05.127" Title="Have you used the Retouch3D? What are pros and cons of it?" Tags="|electronics|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2016-02-20T00:57:05.990" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="610" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-20T02:28:11.740" Score="2" ViewCount="649" Body="&lt;p&gt;Where can I go to upgrade this printer? It's a hictop prusa i3 3d printer. Where do you buy heated beds suitable for ABS and PLA? Also, what kind of extruder do you guys think I should buy?&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TbKsK.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TbKsK.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is were I bought it from. &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B00N7I1ZVU&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.amazon.com/HICTOP-Desktop-Accuracy-Self-Assembly-Tridimensional/dp/B00N7I1ZVU&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="635" LastEditorUserId="98" LastEditDate="2016-03-21T22:52:54.037" LastActivityDate="2016-03-21T22:52:54.037" Title="Hictop 3d printer upgrades?" Tags="|abs|heated-bed|prusa-i3|hbp|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="611" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="610" CreationDate="2016-02-20T09:48:06.677" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Assuming your electronics are open source (such as RAMPS), you can buy upgrades and spare parts from pretty much every 3D printer spare part provider out there, as long as they suit your needs and the specs of your printer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In other words, if you want make a headbed upgrade, find some bed that i.e.:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fit the size of your printer&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Can be mounted properly&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Can be used with your current electronics (and possibly software)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In general, most DIY hobby desktop 3D printers today use more or less the same components mounted in various ways.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="115" LastActivityDate="2016-02-20T09:48:06.677" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="612" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-20T19:31:45.003" Score="5" ViewCount="2270" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Printrbot Simple Metal. The extruder is getting clogged all the time. I went through the process demonstrated &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L_qP5AsnQNQ&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; multiple times already. Heatting the extruder and pushing different tools all the way through to make sure it is completely clear. &#xA;Every time I get a clear flow of PLA, and after a few minutes the extruder motor starts clicking again. At that point, it is even hard to push in the filament by hand.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I replaced the tip already, but this didn't make any difference. I also tried few different filaments, all of them worked perfectly before.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;It feels like stopping the flow even for about 30 seconds would cause it to jam.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="207" LastActivityDate="2016-03-03T09:12:38.827" Title="Repeatedly Clogged Printrbot Simple Extruder" Tags="|extruder|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="613" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="612" CreationDate="2016-02-21T00:46:09.740" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure if this is particularly the issue for you right now, but I have encountered the tension on my drive gear being too high.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Before I upgraded my extruder to the spring loaded mechanism, my extruder used a Delrin plunger to provide tension against the filament towards the drive gear. This plunger used copper washers to help adjust the tension required. Many people ended up upgrading their assemblies to the spring loaded mechanism as the plunger would either put too much or too little tension against the drive gear. Too little and the filament will not be driven into the hotend. Too much and the filament will grind against the drive gear and the drive gear may begin to &quot;eat&quot; away at the filament (especially when the filament becomes hotter). Obviously, if the drive gear is no longer able to catch on the filament, the nozzle will get clogged.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, even with a spring mechanism, your tension can become too high. Most of these mechanisms allow you to adjust the tension by tightening/loosening the screw holding down the spring. The &quot;sweet spot&quot; for me is just past when the filament can be successfully driven into the hotend. You can test this if you have control over your extrusion motor by removing the extrusion motor from its mount, leaving the spring mechanism installed on the face of the motor. Then, turn your motor on and try feeding the filament through the mechanism. Starting with no tension on the spring, begin slowly increasing tension by tightening the screw on your mechanism until the drive gear is successfully able to guide the filament through. I might even complete another half turn on the screw to account for varying diameters and plasticity states of the filament as it becomes hot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hopefully this helps and please keep us updated on anything else you find.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="98" LastActivityDate="2016-02-21T00:46:09.740" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="614" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="615" CreationDate="2016-02-21T11:27:12.620" Score="8" ViewCount="1066" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are many types of pigments made for paint, food, fabric, cosmetic and finally plastic pigments. I guess we need pigments made for plastic, or at least pigments which won't decompose, burn or lose their properties at the temperatures inside the filament extrusion machines (around 240C).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So what type of pigment are we looking for (does that type have a name?) and where can they be found (off-the-shelf from some specialized paint store or is it a more specialized pigment for plastics which is harder to source)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="381" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2018-09-16T12:27:47.827" LastActivityDate="2018-09-16T12:27:47.827" Title="What types of pigments can be used when making your own filaments?" Tags="|filament|filament-production|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="615" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="614" CreationDate="2016-02-21T17:49:28.597" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The normal way pigment is added to filament (or any other extruded plastic product) is by mixing &quot;masterbatch&quot; pellets containing a high concentration of dye with the raw resin pellets. (&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Masterbatch&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Masterbatch&lt;/a&gt;) This is significantly easier and more reliable than trying to mix raw pigments into the plastic -- the likelihood of clumping and other issues is greatly reduced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can buy these masterbatch pellets and mix up colors in whatever ratios you want to achieve specific output colors. Just make sure the masterbatch pellet carrier material is compatible with your resin. There are a wide variety of vendors, including ebay. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="298" LastActivityDate="2016-02-21T17:49:28.597" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="616" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-02-21T19:30:50.180" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;For questions regarding a specific 3D printer by brand, model, and/or type.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="98" LastEditorUserId="98" LastEditDate="2016-02-23T15:31:44.590" LastActivityDate="2016-02-23T15:31:44.590" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="617" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-02-21T19:30:50.180" Score="0" Body="Questions about a specific brand, model, or type of 3D printer." OwnerUserId="98" LastEditorUserId="98" LastEditDate="2016-02-23T15:31:32.213" LastActivityDate="2016-02-23T15:31:32.213" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="618" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-02-21T20:38:36.200" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The MightyBoard is a DIY Open Source 3D Printer Controller Board based on the Arduino Mega platform designed by &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.makerbot.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;MakerBot&lt;/a&gt; for their &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:18813&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Replicator&lt;/a&gt; 3D printer. More details &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:16058&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="98" LastEditorUserId="150" LastEditDate="2018-10-25T10:48:20.007" LastActivityDate="2018-10-25T10:48:20.007" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="619" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-02-21T20:38:36.200" Score="0" Body="Questions about the 3D printer controller board, the MightyBoard" OwnerUserId="98" LastEditorUserId="98" LastEditDate="2016-02-23T15:31:41.150" LastActivityDate="2016-02-23T15:31:41.150" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="620" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="622" CreationDate="2016-02-22T00:13:50.737" Score="9" ViewCount="2785" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are there general rules on how much a colored filament vs. vanilla filament affects the print results, what is affected and how those values should be changed in the slicer to achieve more similar results between different color/colored vs. pure filament spools?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="381" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2018-09-16T12:27:41.400" LastActivityDate="2018-09-16T12:27:41.400" Title="What and how much does coloring in the filament affect in the print?" Tags="|filament|color|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="621" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14" CreationDate="2016-02-22T00:39:33.440" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You have several options:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Printing with filaments made up of plastic and metal powder mix&lt;/strong&gt;. &lt;a href=&quot;http://colorfabb.com/bronzefill&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Bronzefill&lt;/a&gt; is one example.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While most may argue it doesn't look much like bronze or copper and rather clay, it can made to by some automatic polishing methods:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AU8WvGveNj4&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;How to polish copperFill &amp;amp; bronzeFill filament&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nDoYO22103Q&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Polishing 3D Printed Bronze w/ Rock Tumbler &amp;amp; Steel Pins&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some don't like the idea of having a plastic and metal powder mixture and they say if it's not pure bronze/some other alloy it might as well be painted. Which is the second option:&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Spray painting an ABS or PLA print with metal color spray paint.&lt;/strong&gt; You might need to sand or acetone bath the print first for the paint to be applied evenly.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Metal plating&lt;/strong&gt; can be done for more realstic texture. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3PnlZ4MTfCk&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Gold Plating a 3D Printed Eagle&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The 3d print should again be sanded/polished first.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The first method of getting actual metal object from a plastic object: &lt;strong&gt;Printing with a metal clay&lt;/strong&gt;, then firing it in a kiln. You'll need an appropriate extruder which can extrude paste instead of filament:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thingiverse.com/search?q=metal%20clay%20extruder&amp;amp;sa=&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Thingiverse: metal clay extruder&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are 3D printers that can do that officially.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.minimetalmaker.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;MiniMetalMaker&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll need a kiln...&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Second method of getting actual metal object from a plastic object, via &lt;strong&gt;metal casting&lt;/strong&gt; (&quot;lost polymer casting&quot;). From all the above options this is the most dangerous if you're not experienced, skilled and careful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3C9aDXDIHvE&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Make Metal Parts with a 3D Printer (lost polymer casting tutorial)&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q9rfr30W09c&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Metal Casting with 3d Printed Molds&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="381" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2019-06-18T14:32:01.577" LastActivityDate="2019-06-18T14:32:01.577" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="622" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="620" CreationDate="2016-02-22T07:20:31.457" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;At this point in time I don't think there is a need to be concerned with purity of filaments based on pigmentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the most part, variations in filament quality due to coloring should be the least of your concerns compared to some of the other variables such as quality of the pellets, extrusion temperature (when manufactured), cooling rate (after extrusion), handling/storage, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, assuming your focused on consumer 3D printer use, the typical hardware components aren't equipped to be accurate enough to make fine adjustments with regard to the quality range driven by filament color. Even if there were capable, accurate extruder(s) installed, I think you would need a well designed feedback loop to ensure that you're reading temperatures along the full extrusion process (drive, melt, extrude, etc).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I believe what you're asking involves more material science expertise, from a design aspect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I believe that the more &quot;color&quot; you have obviously reduces the purity of the material and thusly the material properties can suffer. Such properties as thermal resistance found in PLA and ABS. So theoretically if you have Black filament, you'll want to extrude with a lower temperature than you would with a natural &quot;White&quot; filament. I would think that the necessary difference in temperature would be a few degrees (Celsius). However, there are many other factors, such as moisture and manufacturing techniques that can take precedence over color differences.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My advice, figure out how to &quot;cheaply&quot; analyze your material and ensure you have an accurate temperature feedback loop. If can you do that, you'll be able to drastically change the quality of consumer 3D printing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="98" LastEditorUserId="98" LastEditDate="2016-02-22T07:29:14.227" LastActivityDate="2016-02-22T07:29:14.227" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="623" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="625" CreationDate="2016-02-22T12:08:59.097" Score="9" ViewCount="4666" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am wondering about the speed that my steppers should achieve in regular operation and what the determining factors are, from theoretical hardware facts/limits to software limitations that can influence performance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do know about the basic properties of stepper motors such as the torque relation with speed, which I read some while ago from this source (for anyont stumbling into this question later):&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.geckodrive.com/gecko/images/cms_files/Step%20Motor%20Basics%20Guide.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.geckodrive.com/gecko/images/cms_files/Step%20Motor%20Basics%20Guide.pdf&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So far Wikipedia (&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stepper_motor&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stepper_motor&lt;/a&gt;) easily turns up the following statements with regard to my question:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Thus when controlled by an L/R drive, the maximum speed of a stepper&#xA;  motor is limited by its inductance since at some speed, the voltage U&#xA;  will be changing faster than the current I can keep up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and  for chopper drivers:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;This requires additional electronics to sense winding currents, and&#xA;  control the switching, but it allows stepper motors to be driven with&#xA;  higher torque at higher speeds than L/R drives&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously the amount of steps/revelation will change the speed, too&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, all this does not help me to determine what the real life speed of my stepper should be. Additional firmware parameters clutter up my (beginner's) brain even more (and I haven't had a too deep dive into that yet).&#xA;In general I understand that the frequency we use to send the steps to the stepper is the main determining factor, also 'reduced' by microstepping, if applied. We cannot keep the current up as much as needed due to timing/inductive/electronic properties of the motors, so we lose torque or finally steps. A higher voltage helps to bring the current up faster, so the steepness of the current increase can also limit the maximum applicable frequency. The frequency itself is given from the controller board to the motor driver, hence is set in firmware.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All in all, apart from what makes sense to utilize in a 3D printer setup, what are the determining factors of the stepper speeds that can be realized and how to they transform into real life values for our printers? Also I'd be interested in how the determining factors influence the reliability and print quality regardless of the mechanical difficulties that arise with print-speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;/edit:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I found these to exist on electroncs SE:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/71270/maximum-speed-of-stepper-motor&quot;&gt;https://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/71270/maximum-speed-of-stepper-motor&lt;/a&gt; &lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/129064/slow-down-stepper-motors-speed-using-stepper-driver-drv-8825&quot;&gt;https://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/129064/slow-down-stepper-motors-speed-using-stepper-driver-drv-8825&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I think the question here is relevant and specific enough for 3D printing to exist here alongside.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="168" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:33:11.380" LastActivityDate="2016-06-10T23:02:49.323" Title="Real life stepper speed" Tags="|electronics|speed|stepper|microstepping|motor|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="624" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="612" CreationDate="2016-02-22T14:35:04.470" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;This used to happen to me and my Simple Metal often. &#xA;The jam was always caused by one of the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Feed rate too high (especially on solid layers or long lines)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Temperature too low&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Nozzle pushing into previous layer, causing back pressure&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Variance in filament diameter&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally, I have never printed at 195c. I'm always about 225 or 230.&#xA;That may seem high for PLA, but then I have stopped having the issues after slowing the print and raising the temperature from 200.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You want to strike the right balance between speed and temp. The slower the feed rate, the lower you can afford to lower the temperature. I think you should start by raising the temperature to 215 and slightly lowering the feedrate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, I have directed a fan at my extruder motor and filament as it enters the nozzle. Keeps the motor very cool and stops the filament softening too early.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a foreign object blocking the nozzle, or does it seem like the filament isn't heating up enough?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="660" LastActivityDate="2016-02-22T14:35:04.470" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="625" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="623" CreationDate="2016-02-22T17:46:36.653" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;The four main motor speed limits in a 3d printer are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Firmware step generation frequency limits&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Firmware motion planner effects&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Loss of torque and precision due to motor coil inductance and back-EMF effects&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mid-band resonance&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Step generation rate limits&lt;/strong&gt; will depend on the firmware and controller board used. There is a significant range, particularly when 32bit firmwares and RTOS-based platforms like MachineKit are compared to 8bit firmwares running on Atmega AVRs. Some examples:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Marlin on a 16 MHz 8bit Atmega can only run the stepper interrupt at 10,000 hz without bogging down the processor and blocking other critical algorithms (like motion planning). It can fire step rates up to 40,000 hz by pulsing the step line two or four times per interrupt, which effectively drops the microstep level in software and runs the motors rougher/louder. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Repetier on the same Atmega can run the stepper interrupt at 12,000 hz, because it is optimized more for execution speed than Marlin.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Repetier on an 84 MHz 32bit ARM Cortex-M3 can run the stepper interrupt at 80,000 Hz.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;These limits typically only affect actual stepper speed when relatively fine microstepping is used.&lt;/em&gt; Consider an example based on a very typical Marlin printer configuration. Microstepping of at least 1/4 is strongly recommended to avoid resonance issues, so let's start with 1/16 stepping. This allows quad-stepping to effectively output 1/4-steps. Starting with finer microstepping will drop our top speed, and coarser microstepping will be louder and may encounter resonance, so this is a good starting point. Then asssume a typical 32mm-per-rev pulley on a 1.8 degree (200 steps/rev) stepper motor. This system has a resolution of 200*16/32= 100 steps/mm. At 40,000 Hz total stepping rate (quad-stepping at 10,000 Hz) we can theoretically travel at 400 mm/s before hitting Marlin's hard cap. That's probably going to be a higher RPM than we want to run the motor anyway, so it's not a very impactful limit. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In comparison, if we started at 1/128 stepping (such as with the THB6128 driver chip) our top speed with 8bit Marlin would be 50 mm/s. That's quite slow. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Firmware motion planners&lt;/strong&gt; can further limits motor speed by ramping up and down to traverse turns and corners. If the model geometry has lots of sharp turns, the target speeds commanded by the gcode are likely to never actually be reached. Only long, straight line paths will have enough ramping time to hit the speed target. You can see this yourself by printing a very small model at a variety of feedrates and timing the actual print duration: at a certain point, increases in the commanded speed will make no difference on actual print times.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another constraint some firmwares enforce is requiring the ability to safely decelerate to a stop within the length of all the motion commands in the planner queue. This allows the printer to gracefully handle a sudden loss of input, such as as if the host computer stops transmitting USB commands, or if the SD card experiences a series of read errors. If the printer just abruptly stops from full speed when it runs out of commands, it is likely to lose position and ruin the print. Whereas if it can decelerate to a safe stopping speed, it may be able to resume after the command stream resumes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In terms of actual motor behavior, the &lt;strong&gt;inductance and back-EMF&lt;/strong&gt; introduce significant limits because they decrease motor torque at higher RPMs. This produces a torque/RPM curve that drops off at higher speeds:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BHxwY.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BHxwY.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.geckodrive.com/support/step-motor-basics.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.geckodrive.com/support/step-motor-basics.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note in the picture that there is a flat &quot;constant current&quot; region on the left side at low speeds. This is the range where the chopping driver is limiting coil current. On the right side of the curve, current is not able to reach the target before it must be switched back off for the next step. That reduces field strength and thus torque.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are two separate effects to consider here:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Motor coils are inductors, which means there is a first-order lag between applied voltage and coil current. A standard bipolar stepper motor with a microstepping driver must raise the coil current from zero to max or from max to zero every full step (eg every sixteen 1/16th microsteps). At high step rates, there is not enough time to fully charge the coil to its max current before the next step requires dropping the current back down. Without developing full coil current on each step, torque is lost. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Every motor is also a generator, and spinning the rotor generates back-EMF voltage within the motor coils. That voltage waveform gets overlaid on top of the drive voltage waveform with a phase shift dependent on the rotor position relative to the coil energization position. &lt;em&gt;In simple terms, this voltage attempts to brake the motor:&lt;/em&gt; it always does whatever will slow the motor down. This means it opposes the applied drive voltage when the motor is applying forward torque, or assists the applied drive voltage when the motor is applying brake torque. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a practical discussion of speed limits, we can simplify the situation by assuming back-EMF voltage opposes the drive voltage applied to the coils. This means there is less effective voltage raising/lowering coil current, and it takes longer for the current to change, and less coil current is developed than would be the case without back-emf. This further depresses the torque/RPM curve of the motor. And when the back-EMF voltage is around the same magnitude as the drive voltage, significant motor instability can result because of complex feedback effects between rotor position and effective coil voltage. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can play with these effects using different motor configurations and speeds for a few popular 3D printer stepper drivers using my stepper driver simulator: &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/rcarlyle/StepperSim&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://github.com/rcarlyle/StepperSim&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In closed-loop applications with position feedback and high-end drivers that can damp various instability modes, it may be ok to run the stepper all the way down the torque curve at very high RPMs. In more typical open-loop 3D printer applications, it's generally best to stick to the low-RPM part of the torque curve before inductance and back-EMF really take over the motor behavior. Losing too much torque can easily mean skipping steps and losing position, ruining the print. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another important effect for steppers is &lt;strong&gt;mid-band resonance&lt;/strong&gt;. This is not a normal mechanical resonance, but actually an electromechanical resonance effect. It's quite complicated, but the short explanation is that a stepper has an intrinsic 90-degree phase shift between position and torque, and when speeds rise to a point where coil inductance introduces an additional 90-degree phase shift between coil current and applied voltage, the electromechanical system has a highly-unstable 180-degree phase lag and thus creates a negative feedback loop. This can rapidly drop motor torque until the motor loses synchronicity with the driver's applied voltage and stalls.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mid-band resonance only occurs when coil current is limited by inductance. It cannot occur in the constant-current drive range because there is not enough phase lag between applied voltage and coil current.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZO8nN.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZO8nN.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.geckodrive.com/support/step-motor-basics.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.geckodrive.com/support/step-motor-basics.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately, measured torque curves available from manufacturers almost never show resonance zones, because the curves are produced by loading motors with friction-brakes that damp any kind of resonance effect from building. Whereas a 3D printer drivetrain load is almost entirely inertial (accelerating a mass) which is much more prone to resonance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;High-end drivers can automatically detect and damp mid-band resonance, but typical low-cost 3D printer drivers do not have this capability. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is generally prudent to avoid entering an RPM range where mid-band resonance may occur. This is easily accomplished by sticking to the left side of the torque curve, in the constant-current operating region. This ensures high torque and good stability. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a concrete example, consider the popular Kysan 1124090 stepper with a 24v power supply. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SUFIv.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SUFIv.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://ultimachine.com/content/kysan-1124090-nema-17-stepper-motor&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://ultimachine.com/content/kysan-1124090-nema-17-stepper-motor&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To maintain high torque and avoid mid-band resonance, we would want to keep the RPM to about 400 or less. For the same 32mm-per-rev pulley mentioned above, that would limit speeds to around 200-240 mm/s. Higher speeds are possible, but may encounter reliability issues. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This speed, of course, assumes a 24v PSU is used, to match the measured torque curve: a 12v PSU would have a significantly lower top speed before inductance starts to limit coil current, around half as fast. Higher supply voltage &lt;em&gt;greatly&lt;/em&gt; increases the top effective speed for the motor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Again, you can easily simulate this effect (using &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/rcarlyle/StepperSim&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://github.com/rcarlyle/StepperSim&lt;/a&gt;). This simulator output chart shows how inductance and back-EMF are keeping coil current from reaching the target:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GYMc7.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GYMc7.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For practical drivetrain design, a motor/driver simulator is really the best tool in the toolbox for finding the point where performance will start to degrade due to inability to hit current targets. It's simply too complex to apply simple equations or rules of thumb with any accuracy. These electrical effects and the firmware step generation limits are likely to be the two main restrictions on motor speed for most printers. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, how fast you can melt plastic will tend to limit printing speeds significantly below the true motor speed limits, but that's a different discussion. For the moment, we can simply say that top motor speed tends to be unimportant for print moves in typical Cartesian printers. However, there are a few instances where they are likely to drive printer performance:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Linear Deltas, where carriages may need to run several times faster than the effector for certain move directions&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Geared extruders with high reduction ratio (eg much over 5:1) for high retraction speeds&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Short-pitch lead screws (or all-thread) that need high rotation speeds to achieve moderate linear speeds&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="298" LastEditorUserId="298" LastEditDate="2016-06-10T23:02:49.323" LastActivityDate="2016-06-10T23:02:49.323" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="626" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="78" CreationDate="2016-02-22T22:29:01.050" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;One thing that I do to  keep it from sticking to the tape. Is to add glue from a glue stick down on the building pad in an even coat on top of the tape.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="666" LastActivityDate="2016-02-22T22:29:01.050" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="628" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="630" CreationDate="2016-02-23T10:53:12.347" Score="9" ViewCount="5088" Body="&lt;p&gt;One way to give PLA prints a smooth finish is treatment with chloroform vapours (or other solvents, as mentioned in &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/36/674&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; answer). This method is even featured on &lt;a href=&quot;https://ultimaker.com/en/tips-tricks/17897-vapor-treating&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Ultimaker website&lt;/a&gt;. I would like to try it on some of my prints. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are the practical concerns I should be aware of using chloroform vapours? I am looking for advice concerning vaporisation temperature, time of exposition that makes for a nice finish, and any other experiences. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Caution!&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chloroform&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Chloroform&lt;/a&gt; is a moderately toxic chemical! I only approach this method as I have an access to a well-equipped chemical laboratory with a &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fume_hood&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;fume hood&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Disclamer:&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;The question is not about the safety issues using chloroform vapours. It is about how obtain the best post-processing results with least trial-and-error.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="674" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2018-09-16T12:33:38.300" LastActivityDate="2018-09-16T12:33:38.300" Title="Practical concerns smoothing PLA print with chloroform vapours" Tags="|pla|post-processing|surface|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="630" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="628" CreationDate="2016-02-23T15:17:21.453" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/comments/25ej7d/does_anyone_have_experience_with_pla_thf_vapor/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;This Reddit post&lt;/a&gt; seems to have some good trial and error dialog.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:73120&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;This Thingiverse post&lt;/a&gt;, along with many other references online, suggest that the results are very similar to that of an Acetone treatment with ABS. I'm not familiar with the inner workings of how it works, but the general advice is to be conscious of what you're working with. A heat-induced vapor treatment seems to yield the best surface finish, but can be tricky to track down proper exposure times. It seems that the time required to achieve a desirable surface finish depends on the size and openness of the features on the object. By openness, I mean how evenly the vapor is able attach itself to the surface of the object as compared to other features. Some this variability may be reduced by streamlining the process. Perhaps if you found a way to rotate either the part or the vapor container during the process. This could ensure contact is made in small corners/features. Other variables to consider may be:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If a gradual reduction of exposure is necessary (as is with most heat treatment operations);&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How much temperature effects time. Most pages I've read mention 100C as the temp to vaporize the chemical;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Size of the &quot;vaporization chamber&quot; in accordance with how much of the chemical is available. I've used a gallon paint can lined with lightly dabbed paper towel with Acetone for part between 1&quot;^3 to about 4&quot;^3.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's all I can think of, currently, that could potentially have the most impact on the process. Just as with 3D printing, there's not an easy way to definitively know how your parts will turn out. The sheer difference in the shape of your parts could throw out any &quot;proven process&quot; you come up with. Hopefully this gives you an idea of what things to look out for in starting out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Here's information about safety, before OP added disclaimer&lt;/em&gt;&#xA;&lt;s&gt;As with any chemical, &lt;strong&gt;always&lt;/strong&gt; refer to the MSDS &lt;sup&gt;(Material Safety Data Sheet)&lt;/sup&gt;! Whichever supplier you acquire the chloroform from, should ship an MSDS with the product. If one is not shipped, you should be able to request one. If they don't have one, don't use the product and don't purchase from them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In most cases, you can get away with finding any MSDS online, but I'd recommend trying to get one directly from your supplier as they might theoretically have a different &quot;strand&quot; of the chemical. Therefore, reactions and safety precautions may be different than what you will find online.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A quick search yields &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sciencelab.com/msds.php?msdsId=9927133&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this MSDS&lt;/a&gt; which states that chloroform does have &quot;carcinogenic effects&quot; along with some other long-term, undesirable effects. As with any other MSDS it continues to go over best-practices and extremity limits.&#xA;&lt;/s&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="98" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2017-06-01T15:45:59.567" LastActivityDate="2017-06-01T15:45:59.567" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="631" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="633" CreationDate="2016-02-23T18:14:24.317" Score="10" ViewCount="10083" Body="&lt;p&gt;On a Cartesian printer movements are really simple. If we assume the printer has 100 steps/mm on each axis, then a move of 10mm on a axis is just 1000 Steps on that axis.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Movements that are not aligned with one axis are also simple. Moving from x,y = 0,0 to 10,10 would be 1000 steps on x and y.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On deltas even for simple moves more than one motor has to move. And just calculating the amount of steps on each axis needed to reach the destination probably gives a curved move.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So what is the algorithm to calculate the steps for a given move for a delta printer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="204" LastEditorUserId="26" LastEditDate="2016-02-23T20:31:50.393" LastActivityDate="2016-02-25T21:10:01.643" Title="How are delta movements calculated?" Tags="|delta|algorithm|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="632" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="631" CreationDate="2016-02-23T20:22:48.850" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am describing how this is done in the Marlin firmware.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first step is to split a linear movement from (x, y, z) to (x', y', z') into many discrete segments. To this end, the amount of time the move would take at a given speed is calculated, and the value &lt;em&gt;delta_segments_per_second&lt;/em&gt; is used to calculate the number of segments used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is done in the function &lt;em&gt;prepare_move_delta&lt;/em&gt; in the file Marlin_main.cpp. The endpoints of each of these segments is then passed to the function &lt;em&gt;calculate_delta&lt;/em&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;void calculate_delta(float cartesian[3]) {&#xA;    //reverse kinematics.&#xA;    // Perform reversed kinematics, and place results in delta[3]&#xA;    // The maths and first version has been done by QHARLEY . Integrated into masterbranch 06/2014 and slightly restructured by Joachim Cerny in June 2014&#xA;&#xA;    float SCARA_pos[2];&#xA;    static float SCARA_C2, SCARA_S2, SCARA_K1, SCARA_K2, SCARA_theta, SCARA_psi;&#xA;&#xA;    SCARA_pos[X_AXIS] = cartesian[X_AXIS] * axis_scaling[X_AXIS] - SCARA_offset_x;  //Translate SCARA to standard X Y&#xA;    SCARA_pos[Y_AXIS] = cartesian[Y_AXIS] * axis_scaling[Y_AXIS] - SCARA_offset_y;  // With scaling factor.&#xA;&#xA;    #if (Linkage_1 == Linkage_2)&#xA;      SCARA_C2 = ((sq(SCARA_pos[X_AXIS]) + sq(SCARA_pos[Y_AXIS])) / (2 * (float)L1_2)) - 1;&#xA;    #else&#xA;      SCARA_C2 = (sq(SCARA_pos[X_AXIS]) + sq(SCARA_pos[Y_AXIS]) - (float)L1_2 - (float)L2_2) / 45000;&#xA;    #endif&#xA;&#xA;    SCARA_S2 = sqrt(1 - sq(SCARA_C2));&#xA;&#xA;    SCARA_K1 = Linkage_1 + Linkage_2 * SCARA_C2;&#xA;    SCARA_K2 = Linkage_2 * SCARA_S2;&#xA;&#xA;    SCARA_theta = (atan2(SCARA_pos[X_AXIS], SCARA_pos[Y_AXIS]) - atan2(SCARA_K1, SCARA_K2)) * -1;&#xA;    SCARA_psi = atan2(SCARA_S2, SCARA_C2);&#xA;&#xA;    delta[X_AXIS] = SCARA_theta * SCARA_RAD2DEG;  // Multiply by 180/Pi  -  theta is support arm angle&#xA;    delta[Y_AXIS] = (SCARA_theta + SCARA_psi) * SCARA_RAD2DEG;  //       -  equal to sub arm angle (inverted motor)&#xA;    delta[Z_AXIS] = cartesian[Z_AXIS];&#xA;}&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This function takes care of the delta geometry and calculations needed to convert the (x,y,z) coordinates of the segment endpoints to corresponding positions for the carriages. The translated coordinates are then passed to &lt;em&gt;plan_buffer_line&lt;/em&gt;, which calculates the steps needed for each stepper motor and actually makes these steps happen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The exact kinematics used in this function are explained in much more detail at the &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/wiki/Delta-kinematics&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Marlin github&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is important to note is that plan_buffer_line moves the carriages linearly, and the printhead thus describes an arc and not a straight line. A straight line move is thus approximated by many small arcs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastActivityDate="2016-02-23T20:22:48.850" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="633" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="631" CreationDate="2016-02-23T20:40:25.017" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are two main special steps to the technique used by most open-source 3d printer controllers:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Divide each linear gcode segment into lots of very small subsegments (&quot;Segmentation&quot;)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use some basic trigonometry or the pythagorean theorem to tie extruder position to carriage height for each of the three towers (&quot;Inverse Kinematics&quot;) &#xA;to find the target position for each small segment&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The inverse kinematics are surprisingly simple. A virtual 90 degree triangle is constructed from two known lengths to solve for the unknown third length: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The fixed delta arm length is the hypotenuse of the triangle&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The horizontal distance between the column joints and end-effector joints is calculated from the XY coordinates of the nozzle and the fixed position of the column, to determine the length of the lower side of the triangle&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The length of the upper side of the triangle is calculated from the previous two via the pythagorean theorem&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The length of the upper side is added to the nozzle Z height to get the necessary carriage height&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think the best open-source reference here is Steve Grave's Rostock Kinematics document, rev3 available for download here: &lt;a href=&quot;https://groups.google.com/d/msg/deltabot/V6ATBdT43eU/jEORG_l3dTEJ&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://groups.google.com/d/msg/deltabot/V6ATBdT43eU/jEORG_l3dTEJ&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;Some relevant pictures:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MxCMc.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MxCMc.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/geOQI.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/geOQI.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These inverse kinematics calculations are performed for each carriage to get a &quot;carriage space&quot; target position, and this is performed for every path sub-segment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The results from these steps can then be reinserted back into the standard linear path interpolation techniques for the printer, in which it fires steps in the necessary ratios and at the necessary rates to produce the desired straight-line motion and acceleration/velocity profile. (How THAT is done is a different question.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The net effect is that the printer will move through a series of small &quot;linear&quot; carriage movements (linear meaning constant* speed with respect to time) that collectively approximate the necessary curved (quadratic position with respect to time) carriage motions required to produce a straight-line end-effector move.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*(&lt;em&gt;Constant speed before acceleration slowdowns are applied in order to obey dynamics constraints, anyway. Again, that's the subject of a different question.)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Segmentation is very similar to the process of using a polygon to approximate a circle. If the facets are small enough, the polygon is a good approximation. Higher Segmentation rates produce less path-following error.  The primary conceptual difference between drawing circle arcs and Delta motion paths is that the so-called &quot;faceted arc&quot; with Delta Segmentation is constructed in height-vs-time coordinates instead of the X-vs-Y coordinates you'd use to draw a circle on a computer screen. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This system is used in large part because support for Delta style printers was originally bolted onto GRBL-based motion planners which were written exclusively for straight-line motion paths in Cartesian printers. It was a relatively minimal modification to the existing codebase compared to implementing full quadratic path interpolation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Techniques have evolved over the years. And alternate approaches are often used: for example, the dc42 fork of RepRapFirmware performs exact path-following without segmentation, by recalculating the proper time for the next step &lt;em&gt;after every step&lt;/em&gt;. This is functionally equivalent to approximating a circle with a polygon facet count &lt;em&gt;so high that every pixel on the screen gets its own facet&lt;/em&gt;. So it is exactly as accurate as the positioning resolution of the motors allows. The downside is that this segmentation-free technique is fairly processor-intensive, so it only works on relatively fast controllers, not the older 8bit Atmega AVR that powers most existing consumer/hobbyist printers today. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other techniques are possible. The academic parallel robotics control literature is a whole other world of mathematical techniques and complexity in order to produce generalized control algorithms that work for a wide range of robot mechanisms. The version we use in open-source 3d printers is quite simple and application-specific in comparison. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="298" LastEditorUserId="298" LastEditDate="2016-02-25T21:10:01.643" LastActivityDate="2016-02-25T21:10:01.643" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="634" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="214" CreationDate="2016-02-24T05:50:32.040" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Different types of hotends and extruders can lead to different problems associated with clogging. Based on my personal experience the leading causes of clogs and jams are the following&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Foreign material in the nozzle (dirt, dust, low quality filament)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mixing materials in the hotend (running ABS at 220 then switching to PLA without purging the nozzle)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Excessive retraction or &quot;heat soak&quot; in PLA (PLA expands when heated if your retraction is set to high you can actually push the expanded PLA high enough that it cools down and can no longer flow)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To solve these issues I recommend using one type of filament, preferably decent quality (typically $40 per kg), if you swap materials be sure to completely purge your nozzle of the higher temperature material. Set your retraction as low as you can trying to minimize ooze (try .4 mm for all metal hotend or 2-3 mm for makerbot style). To minimize carbonized plastic in your hotend don't leave your hotend's heater on for extended periods of time. One way to keep dust from accumulating on your filament is to cover your rolls when you aren't using them, I personally use hairnets, you can buy a 12 pack for a couple of dollars and they last for a long time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="693" LastActivityDate="2016-02-24T05:50:32.040" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="635" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="612" CreationDate="2016-02-24T06:19:24.217" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had a similar issue on my Printrbot Simple Metal. I believe my problem was initially caused by clogged nozzle which I replaced, however the jamming persisted. I can't say for sure that it was acting exactly as you describe but I think it may have been similar. I noticed that the little red insulating sleeve was pushed up higher than it was when I got it from Printrbot. When I lowered this my problem seemed to go away.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="693" LastActivityDate="2016-02-24T06:19:24.217" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="636" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="640" CreationDate="2016-02-24T19:24:06.583" Score="9" ViewCount="568" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there a definitive scalable 3D printer? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've seen examples of Chinese companies printing entire houses, and I'm curious as to printers / filaments that are intended (or at least able) be scaled up for (very) large print jobs. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since most hobby printers can take hundreds of hours for something that can still be held in our hands, so I'm curious if there are any designs for printers that are meant to extrude material efficiently with a easily scalable printing area. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Open sourced / free is preferable; though I'm interested in &lt;strong&gt;any&lt;/strong&gt; designs that exist, commercial included.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="702" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-08-07T08:53:23.983" LastActivityDate="2018-08-07T08:54:34.780" Title="Scalable 3D Printer" Tags="|filament|speed|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="637" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="639" CreationDate="2016-02-24T20:10:54.190" Score="8" ViewCount="4343" Body="&lt;p&gt;Our library system just put a 3D printer in one of the branches. I have used SketchUp on the library computers for a number of years just to do artsy things. Suddenly, I have the opportunity to actually print something. (I'm really not sure why the libraries have SketchUp installed. But, I have enjoyed using it.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a plug-in available for SketchUp so that it can export STL files. But, the security on the library computers will not allow me to put a file into the SketchUp plug-ins folder. And, the tech guy at the library doesn't think that the IT guys at the library will update all the copies of SketchUp at all the branches just so someone could do 3D printing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After doing some searching on this website, I found out that I could export a COLLADA / dae file from SketchUp. I would then import that dae file into Blender (The portable version on my flash drive). I could then export it as an STL file. &#xA;The process appeared to work. I could see my test object in Blender. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I gave the STL file to the branch manager who tried to open it in the Makerbot software so that it could be sent to the printer. But, it gave him a message about the file not being recognized. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am not familiar with all the details in the importing and exporting processes that are going on. Is there someone out there that can give me some help?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One problem is that, I am using the library computers. I cannot alter them. I can use what portable versions of software are out there, like Blender.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user706" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2020-07-13T10:31:38.620" LastActivityDate="2020-07-13T10:31:38.620" Title="Why won't makerbot accept an STL file from Blender?" Tags="|software|makerbot|file-formats|blender|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="638" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="636" CreationDate="2016-02-24T20:23:45.987" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I understand your question correctly, it sounds like you're looking somewhere within the &lt;a href=&quot;http://reprap.org/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;RepRap&lt;/a&gt; realm. The RepRap community is mostly responsible for the boom in consumer 3D printing in the past 10 years, and that's most likely because it's &lt;strong&gt;open source&lt;/strong&gt;. RepRap designs are mostly dynamic (and most parts can be 3D printed), so you could theoretically build a larger frame for your machine and use a slicing engine that allows you to set the build volume. I believe &lt;a href=&quot;http://slic3r.org/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Slic3r&lt;/a&gt; allows you to customize the build space, I'm not sure though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="98" LastActivityDate="2016-02-24T20:23:45.987" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="639" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="637" CreationDate="2016-02-24T21:04:17.163" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here is what I suggest you try. If you have a file that you can view/edit in blender I would export it as both STL and OBJ formats. Then take those files and upload them to Netfabb (&lt;a href=&quot;https://netfabb.azurewebsites.net/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://netfabb.azurewebsites.net/&lt;/a&gt;) and get a &quot;repaired&quot; file. Have the library try again with the repaired STL and OBJ files. If this doesn't work try to get the exact error message/dialog that the makerbot software is giving them as well as the version of the software that they are using.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="693" LastActivityDate="2016-02-24T21:04:17.163" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="640" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="636" CreationDate="2016-02-24T21:33:38.870" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;One big challenge with scaling anything up (or down), is that not all properties or characteristics scale linearly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Consider a trivial case: a small cube. If you double the size, you've quadrupled the surface area and octupled the weight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you take a desktop-sized 3d printer design, and just double the size, it will weigh 8 times as much. But all the bolts holding it together are only 4 times as strong. So weight-bearing bolts are effectively under twice the strain (per unit of cross-sectional area); the exact factor depends of lots of things (orientation, leverage, etc).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you scale up by 10x, they'll potentially be under 10 times greater stress, and probably snap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many, many parts will have similar issues: Drive belts that are twice as wide and twice as thick will still have 1/2 the (relative) strength -- and stiffness for the motors to overcome. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The stepper motors have to move 8 times the weight, &lt;em&gt;and&lt;/em&gt; you'll want them to move far, far faster. But steppers lose torque when you spin them faster.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My main printer is pretty much a MendelMax 2, but the Y axis is about 6 times bigger (X and Z are normal). On MM2 the whole build platform moves along Y -- on my printer it weighs far more than on a regular-size MM2 -- it's 6 times the mass just because of size, besides that it has to be much stiffer to avoid sagging over that distance. I went to a larger motor, but it could still barely move the axis. I eventually got it to move at pretty normal speed, but to print long objects it really should be 6 times faster or so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That would require an amazing motor -- and really big electronics to drive it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another challenge is the printing material -- 20mm diameter PLA fiber would be really impressive, but a little hard to find, and a spool would be hard to lift. The power needed to melt it fast enough would be impressive, too. Bridge and house printers I've seen in reports, use pumped concrete through about a 100mm wide nozzle (I have no idea what the nozzle is made of, to stand up to the abrasion). See &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wired.co.uk/news/archive/2015-09/21/giant-3d-printer-builds-houses&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Watch this giant 3D printer build a house&lt;/a&gt; for some cool pictures and video.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Scaling up is a fascinating project -- but it's harder than it looks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-08-07T08:54:34.780" LastActivityDate="2018-08-07T08:54:34.780" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="641" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="636" CreationDate="2016-02-24T21:35:19.067" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;As far as I know, right now, all the &quot;3D printers&quot; that can print houses, bridges, etc. are experimental models (and sometimes, vey elaborate art projects) - they just don't exist except as one-off creations designed as a proof-of-concept showing this can be done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maybe some of those project published their plans and code but they are not designed for mass production or general use, even if you manage to build another copy of one of them it will probably be able to print just the same project the original printed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You specifically asked about speed, material and build area:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Speed:&lt;/strong&gt; the speed really depends on the size of the printer's nozzle, the typical desktop printer has a 0.4mm nozzle, if you replace it with a 1mm nozzle the printer will be approximately twice as fast (1.25 nozzle area vs 3.14 nozzle area, assuming you have an hotend designed for larger nozzles that can melt the plastic fast enough).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, the &quot;house printer&quot; does not use a standard desktop hotend (see material below) and buildings don't have fine details so you can make the head much larger.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, as far as I know the early prototypes are still much slower then conventional construction methods.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Material:&lt;/strong&gt; houses are typically not made of plastic, the printers I know of have welding equipment instead of an hotend and extrude steel&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are probably other methods but I bet all of them use typical construction materials such as steel and not thermoplastic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Size:&lt;/strong&gt; and last but not least, it's obviously not practical to build a printer with as house sized platform, the house printers are actually relatively small robots that travel across the construction project, leaving material behind them and then climb over the previous layer to print the next part.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="170" LastEditorUserId="170" LastEditDate="2016-02-25T06:34:57.737" LastActivityDate="2016-02-25T06:34:57.737" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="642" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="666" CreationDate="2016-02-24T21:40:06.150" Score="19" ViewCount="17184" Body="&lt;p&gt;When you cut or break a PLA model (for example to remove support) it often leaves an ugly while mark where the removed piece was connected.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sanding also tend to leave dull white scratches on the sanded surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What can I do to restore the white areas to the original filament color?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="170" LastActivityDate="2020-04-27T00:38:48.187" Title="How to remove white marks from PLA" Tags="|pla|post-processing|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="643" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="642" CreationDate="2016-02-24T22:07:31.397" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;A quick blast from a heat gun will very slightly reflow the surface texture and eliminate white marks. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, it's important to avoid over-heating the perimeter layers or you'll see them soften and sag into the infill. So wait for the heat gun to get fully hot and then use a short duration of high heat. Let the part cool between attempts if you don't get it all the first time, or need to clean up a large area. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Incidentally, the heat gun will also help clean up strings from travel moves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="298" LastActivityDate="2016-02-24T22:07:31.397" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="645" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="646" CreationDate="2016-02-25T02:42:02.643" Score="12" ViewCount="5773" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cura does not seem let the full print area to be used. My printer is a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.lulzbot.com/store/printers/lulzbot-mini&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Lulzbot Mini&lt;/a&gt;. The design illustrated below can be found &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.tinkercad.com/things/hBE6Aj2EJMo-skyrail-marble-coster-banked-curve-beta&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pf5AP.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&#xA;  &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/G8UUD.png&quot; /&gt;&#xA;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iqvqo.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&#xA;  &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iqvqo.png&quot; /&gt;&#xA;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="285" LastEditorUserId="115" LastEditDate="2016-02-25T06:55:39.347" LastActivityDate="2022-04-26T06:46:35.000" Title="Cura not allowing full print area to used" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="646" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="645" CreationDate="2016-02-25T03:09:00.443" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cura is likely factoring in your skirt. Change the skirt lines to 0 and you might be able to print (&lt;code&gt;Expert&lt;/code&gt; -&amp;gt; &lt;code&gt;Switch to full settings&lt;/code&gt;, then click the options button next to &amp;quot;platform adhesion type.&amp;quot;). Cura also seems to have an in-built build size offset of about 2 mm. I can't seem to get rid of it in any way other than to change the build size.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="691" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2022-04-26T06:46:35.000" LastActivityDate="2022-04-26T06:46:35.000" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="647" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="653" CreationDate="2016-02-25T05:27:25.533" Score="6" ViewCount="7806" Body="&lt;p&gt;Over the times I hear people saying delta inverse kinematics push atmega2560 to limits. I see in my local supplier Arduino Due and RAMPS-FD is the cheapest 32bit alternatives. But there's not much documentation on it so any opinion or personal experience are welcomed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;is it really 2560 based electronics so laggy that printing quality is compromised? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;does Marlin4Due has a good support for auto calibration? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;anything else to caution against besides a ramps1.4 is a no-no? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(I'm planning my first delta. 2560 seems to work perfectly with my previous xy bots though. )&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="710" LastActivityDate="2016-02-25T18:21:16.770" Title="Is Arduino Due a worth buy as controller electronics for deltabots?" Tags="|electronics|ramps-1.4|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="650" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="651" CreationDate="2016-02-25T12:55:10.843" Score="7" ViewCount="10369" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am trying to find programs that can import and export 3MF file formats. I know that Cura 15.10 beta can open 3MF formats, but I am looking for a program that open, edit and save 3MF files. I am very interested in finding a more portable file format for my 3D designs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are not aware the 3MF format promises to provide a &quot;replacement&quot; for STL files that contains the complete model information, theoretically allowing us to slice and edit the same file.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://3mf.io/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://3mf.io/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="693" LastActivityDate="2018-10-09T20:23:42.367" Title="Are there any software packages that can open and edit 3MF?" Tags="|software|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="651" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="650" CreationDate="2016-02-25T13:13:46.770" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.microsoft.com/en-us/store/apps/3d-builder/9wzdncrfj3t6&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Microsoft 3D Builder&lt;/a&gt; should have &lt;a href=&quot;http://fileinfo.com/extension/3mf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;support&lt;/a&gt; for this format.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://blogs.solidworks.com/tech/2015/04/whats-new-solidworks-2015-3d-printing-support.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Solidworks 2015&lt;/a&gt; has support too. A software adoption list is placed on &lt;a href=&quot;https://3mf.io/adoption/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;3mf pages&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="75" LastEditorUserId="75" LastEditDate="2018-10-09T20:23:42.367" LastActivityDate="2018-10-09T20:23:42.367" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="652" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="654" CreationDate="2016-02-25T16:00:11.583" Score="7" ViewCount="2669" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm having trouble getting my MendelMax 2's heatbed &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; to heat up when I want to print without it. I don't get how multiple sources of control relate to each other (same with extrusion temperatures, actually):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Slic3r (1.2.9) has settings under Filament Settings / Filament / Bed, for First layer and Other layers (and groups of settings can be saved).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The pronterface GUI (Printrun-Mac-10Mar2014) has an &quot;Options&quot; panel where you can set &quot;Bed temperature&quot; (actually, two settings, one for PLA and one for ABS -- though I doubt the software can test which filament is loaded!)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The pronterface GUI also has a menu/fill-in labelled &quot;Bed&quot;, which works fine to adjust the bed when nothing is printing. The menu there lets you pick from a manually-entered value, &quot;0 (off)&quot;, and (apparently) the settings for PLA and ABS from the options panel.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Marlin's Configuration.h has settings for bed minimum and maximum temps (the non-zero minimum seems to be to prevent running the bed when the thermistor isn't working, to avoid unlimited overheating).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I recently tried to print some PLA with no bed heat (using blue tape on the glass build plate). I sliced the model with bed heat off in Slic3r; changed the PLA bed temps in the printerface options panel to 0; and picked the PLA setting in the GUI main screen (and also tried setting &quot;0 (off)&quot; manually.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I started to print the object, the bed turned on and stayed on, maintaining 60C.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I thought of just unplugging the heatbed, but then I expect the print would never start, since it would try to heat up the bed and never succeed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So how does the decision about which temperature setting to use, &lt;em&gt;really&lt;/em&gt; get made? I have the same question about extruder temps, speeds, accelerations, and other things, too -- whose settings are really in charge?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastEditorUserId="98" LastEditDate="2016-03-21T22:52:37.877" LastActivityDate="2016-10-30T20:17:43.603" Title="Heatbed control with Pronterface" Tags="|heated-bed|slic3r|pronterface|hbp|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="653" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="647" CreationDate="2016-02-25T17:01:52.537" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;An 8bit Atmega can provide bare-bones delta performance with Marlin (eg 40mm/s print speed) or pretty good performance with Repetier (due to more optimized algorithms). &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;For a small and simple delta like a bare-bones Mini Kossel, 8bit may be fine. If you want to do high-speed printing or use any of the fancier features, you should go with 32bit.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The big issue with 8bit comes up when you want to do something that taxes the MCU. Delta kinematics already add a lot of extra math on top of all the normal printer functions like command parsing, motion planning, and heater control. For example, adding any of these to an 8bit Delta can cause issues:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Bed tilt compensation &quot;auto-leveling&quot;&lt;/strong&gt; -- the coordinate space rotation transform adds a lot of extra floating point calculations to every movement segment. That really taxes the 8bit Atmega since it does not have native floating point support. (Note that pre-print auto-calibration such as in the RichCattell Marlin fork is not the same as bed tilt compensation and does not add any run-time processor load.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Full graphics LCDs&lt;/strong&gt; -- refreshing the LCD screen for animations and status reports takes a surprising amount of horsepower. 8bit Marlin is widely known to suffer from stuttering and print quality issues when running a GLCD on a delta.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Highly faceted (smooth) curves, particularly over USB&lt;/strong&gt; -- the high rate of gcode command processing sucks up a lot of clock cycles, particularly in firmwares that run USB comms as a top-priority interrupt. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What the Due (or other 32bit board option) does for you is de-bottleneck the MCU so you can push the printer harder or utilize features that add processor load. Here's why they're so much better:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In simple clock speed terms, the SAM3X8E in the Due/Duet/Alligator/etc is about 5 times faster than the Atmega 2560, and the LPC1769 in the Smoothieboard/MKS-SBASE/etc is about 7 times faster. But they're actually MUCH higher performance than clock speed alone would suggest, because the 32bit architecture and native floating point support mean far fewer clock cycles are required for complex calculations. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;They also have more RAM, meaning the the firmware can manage more features and look farther ahead when motion planning. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;They also have more program space, meaning the firmware can, if desired, be compiled as a single full-featured build that covers all possible printers (as RepRapFirmware and Smoothieware do) and thus end-users don't have to edit and compile code in the Arduino IDE to configure the firmware. The Atmega line requires hundreds of conditional compile statements in the firmware to exclude unused features from the binary to get the memory footprint down.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All that said, the switch from an 8bit Atmega AVR to a 32bit ARM Cortex-M3 is still just an upgrade from a late-1990s processor to an early-2000s processor. Neither is &quot;modern&quot; by any stretch. &lt;em&gt;(For example, the BeagleBone Black used by Redeem and MachineKit utterly blows away the Due in processing power and memory. But those options have steep learning curves at the moment.)&lt;/em&gt; The Due can still be bogged down by printing very fast with lots of features enabled. It's a &lt;strong&gt;big&lt;/strong&gt; upgrade on an Atmega, but I predict it's going to be replaced by much faster controllers within the next few years. Announcements of upcoming next-gen controller boards are already trickling out. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;To summarize, the answer is yes, a Due-type board is a good buy if you want a high-performance printer. It will meet 99%+ of user's needs today.&lt;/strong&gt; But it will be replaced in a few years, just like the Atmegas are being replaced now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;As for specific Due shields, I strongly recommend NOT going with RAMPS-FD.&lt;/strong&gt; It was cloned for sale by Asian companies before the design was finished, which seemingly caused the original designer to abandon it before working out all the bugs. RAMPS-FDv1 has some nasty design flaws such as heaters turning on while flashing firmware. RAMPS-FDv2 is better, but can experience unreliable and oddball behavior due to unresolved issues in the circuits intended to make it compatible with both 3v3 boards like the Due and 5v boards like the Mega. (For example, the thermistor voltage reference circuit needs modifying to work right, and there appears to be timing issues in the 3v3-5v level shifters.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;RADDS is a good Due shield.&lt;/strong&gt; It is a simpler, more reliable, more compact version of RAMPS-FD. It is very popular in Germany and has recently (late 2015) become available for sale in the US. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also recommend purchasing the Due R3-E instead of the regular Due R3. Anecdotally, the &quot;E&quot; version appears to eliminate some firmware bootup issues that can occur when the board is first powered at lower than nominal voltage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One possible downside to the Due is that Arduino just announced they are no longer manufacturing it. So all new Due boards from here on will be made by 3rd parties. That's not necessarily bad, since it's open source and many other companies will surely continue making them, but there won't be any more made by Arduino. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For single-board options using the same SAM3X8E processor as the Due, the Duet 0.8.5 is becoming quite popular. (It runs RepRapFirmware, which has some great Delta features.) The Alligator runs Repetier. There are several other beta/experimental/development boards in the works too. The community appears to be moving towards the Due and Due-compatible boards over the other various options.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="298" LastEditorUserId="298" LastEditDate="2016-02-25T18:21:16.770" LastActivityDate="2016-02-25T18:21:16.770" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="654" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="652" CreationDate="2016-02-25T18:01:50.047" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;3D printer get the temperature settings from g-code file. The firmware settings for min and max temperature are just safeguards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should verify instructions within the g-code file. If you are not familiar with g-code, take a look to &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/G-code&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;wikipedia&lt;/a&gt;. List of g-code instructions for marlin firmware is &lt;a href=&quot;http://reprap.org/wiki/G-code&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Instruction responsible for setting bed temperature are &lt;a href=&quot;http://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#M190:_Wait_for_bed_temperature_to_reach_target_temp&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;M190&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#M140:_Set_Bed_Temperature_.28Fast.29&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;M140&lt;/a&gt;. Open your g-code file and search for lines containing them. If you delete these lines then the bed temperature will be not set during print. Additionally it means that it is set by your slicer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In &lt;em&gt;Slic3r&lt;/em&gt; you should check &lt;em&gt;Printer settings&lt;/em&gt; &amp;rarr; &lt;em&gt;Custom G-code&lt;/em&gt; &amp;rarr; &lt;em&gt;Start G-code&lt;/em&gt; if it contains one of mentioned instructions and possibly remove it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="75" LastActivityDate="2016-02-25T18:01:50.047" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="655" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="656" CreationDate="2016-02-25T23:57:07.407" Score="9" ViewCount="19364" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Cura, when you enable &quot;Print support structure&quot;, is there a way to see what it will look like?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="285" LastActivityDate="2017-07-30T09:21:40.543" Title="Show generated support structures in Cura" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="656" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="655" CreationDate="2016-02-26T01:13:38.283" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Select the View Modes Button in the upper right hand corner, and select Layers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/grPQi.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/grPQi.png&quot; alt=&quot;Cura&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="43" LastActivityDate="2016-02-26T01:13:38.283" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="657" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="658" CreationDate="2016-02-26T18:25:06.273" Score="7" ViewCount="1493" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am struggling finding how to print complex shapes made of rubber, tpu, tpe...&#xA;Are there any clear guidelines on how to print those materials without deforming and uncontrolled retraction?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The printer is not a problem, I can print on:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Delta WASP (the one I am specifically looking advice for)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Makerbot 5th&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;MB Z18&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sharebot NG&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ultimaker 2&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="688" LastActivityDate="2016-02-29T04:09:53.643" Title="Proper settings for printing rubber and rubber-like materials?" Tags="|filament|fdm|quality|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="658" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="657" CreationDate="2016-02-29T04:09:53.643" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;First off, &lt;strong&gt;you need the right extruder design&lt;/strong&gt;. Specifically, the filament path between the drive gear or hob and hot end must be extremely well-constrained. 1.75mm TPE filaments (thermoplastic elastomers) will buckle in an instant if given the chance. That means they will try to squeeze out of any little opening in the filament drive path rather than being forced through the nozzle. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is there a gap &gt;1mm &lt;em&gt;anywhere&lt;/em&gt; between your extruder drive gear and hot end? &lt;em&gt;Including the groove in the drive gear itself.&lt;/em&gt; If so, either change extruders or print something to fill the gap. Many popular extruders already have Ninjaflex conversion parts uploaded on Thingiverse or Youmagine.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Are you using a 1.75mm bowden drive? You probably shouldn't bother with the softer TPEs like Ninaflex. Harder TPEs like Semiflex may be ok, but it's still difficult. 3mm bowden drives may perform ok. Direct drive extruders are highly recommend. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;TPUs (thermoplastic urethanes) in particular can be sticky in the filament feed path between the spool and extruder. Try to minimize corners and turns (even inside PTFE tubes) between the extruder and spool. As a general rule of thumb, don't exceed 180 degrees of cumulative tube curvature in the entire path from the spool to the nozzle. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once your filament feed path is fully enclosed, the filament will be constrained and unable to squeeze out the side or wrap around your drive gear. That's the most important step.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The next problem is simply &lt;strong&gt;loading&lt;/strong&gt; the filament. Purging out PLA or ABS with a soft TPE can be challenging because of the force required to purge the old material. Many default loading routines are actually too fast for TPEs and will cause the TPE filament to bunch up rather than purging the previous material. It tends to extrude better when there is nothing else in the way. Some tips:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do some cold-pulls to clear out the hot end as much as possible before loading the TPE. (Nylon is ideal for this. Preheat to nylon temps, run through some nylon, let the extruder cool to ~180C, and then forcefully pull out the nylon. If you can't pull it out, pull hotter. If it leaves nylon behind, pull colder.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you have a high-melting plastic like PET or nylon in the hot end, purge with a lower-melting solid filament like PLA first. This will reduce the viscosity of the old material when inserting the TPE. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If your printer has a fixed loading speed, consider making a gcode file with nothing but a preheat and very slow extruder move as a custom loading script. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you fail to load and jam up the TPE, try again! Sometimes it takes a few load/unload cycles to get the old material purged and a clean feed going. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The final issue is &lt;strong&gt;print settings&lt;/strong&gt;. You ever hear the saying, &quot;you can't push a rope&quot;? That's kind of what you're fighting with TPEs. With a properly constrained feed path, you can push rubber, but not very hard. So minimizing extrusion force is the name of the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Print SLOW to start. Like 10mm/s. You can dial it up once you're getting good results. This will minimize nozzle back-pressure and reduce the amount of &quot;pushing a rope&quot; that the extruder drive must do.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Retract as little as possible. Turn off &quot;optional&quot; retractions in your slicer, such as during layer changes. Some people even print with no retraction at all, and use high travel speeds and coast/wipe features to minimize stringing. That's overkill, but it can help with marginal extruders. I personally add about 50% to my normal ABS/PLA retraction distance. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Print on the hotter side of the recommended range to start, then dial down the temp as needed to reduce stringing and oozing. Printing hot will reduce nozzle back-pressure.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With all that, it should be possible to print the softest TPEs with reasonable success. But if you really can't get it working right, plenty of higher-durometer TPEs are available now that are significantly easier to extrude. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="298" LastActivityDate="2016-02-29T04:09:53.643" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="659" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="456" CreationDate="2016-02-29T13:18:02.703" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have two different printers that can print un-tethered. The first is a Prusa inspired machine with an LCD and the second is a printrbot without an LCD.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reprap machine uses a ramps 1.4 board programmed with Marlin that gives me the ability to control loading and unloading of the filament with simple menus. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not all printers that have the ability to print from SD come with an LCD screen. My printrbot simple metal does not come with an LCD, it is an additional $100.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am too cheap to buy one so I came up with an extremely low tech way of changing filament. I turn my printer on with an SD card that has an auto0.g file (this tells the board to load and run g-code on start-up), once the printer starts to move I kill the power remove the filament and put new filament into the extruder. I then press the lever to disengage the extruder motor and force the new filament into the hot end until the old color has been purged. Please note this method only works when you are replacing materials that have the same printing temperatures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="693" LastActivityDate="2016-02-29T13:18:02.703" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="660" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="456" CreationDate="2016-02-29T20:06:09.410" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;By a pretty large margin, the most popular &quot;primary control via LCD&quot; printers such as the FlashForge Creator line and Makerbot Replicator 1/2/2x run Sailfish firmware, which has options for all necessary control functions directly from the LCD. Preheat, load, unload, level bed, etc are all done via the LCD and seamlessly built-in scripts. There is no need to connect host software to do anything but update firmware and change rarely-adjusted settings like acceleration parameters. RepRap-style USB control of Sailfish printers is perfectly functional, but not really necessary 99.9% of the time. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a major reason why Sailfish printers have historically been popular for printer farms. They're designed for stand-alone operation, which is highly favorable when the printers greatly outnumber the associated computers. It's extremely rare to see a Sailfish printer from the last 5 years without a 5-button LCD panel. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Sailfish firmware UI/UX is simply built around the LCD buttons rather than host software. This is &lt;em&gt;generally&lt;/em&gt; more reliable and higher-performance than, say, Marlin via host because it reduces processor time spent on command transmission and eliminates all the possible failure modes in the PC and USB link. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming all Sailfish printers will have LCDs with SD card support and focusing on that one interface really allowed the creation of an overall better printer. More optimization, fewer things that need to be configured by the end-user. But in exchange, you're limited in what kind of hardware Sailfish will support. It's a tradeoff.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In comparison, LCD support was more strapped onto RepRaps as an option rather than the core interface element. This tends to produce a host-driven interface design, rather than an LCD-driven interface design. Which is why operating &quot;headless&quot; tends to be more difficult in Marlin, Repetier, etc. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="298" LastActivityDate="2016-02-29T20:06:09.410" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="661" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="456" CreationDate="2016-03-01T04:02:16.197" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know that my RoBo 3D has the ability to run untethered once the gcode file is saved to the SD card attached to the ramps board. It does have to be attached to the computer to start the print at first, but can then be unplugged from your computer. Since it is just a Marlin based Ramps printer this should work for similar 3D printers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The gcode files contain the temperature of both the nozzle and the heated bed if you have one. The Marlin firmware will prime the temperatures for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Changing filament you would still need to set your hot end temp to swap in the new filament with a computer over USB though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now I personally use something called OctoPi which is a raspberry pi distribution preconfigured with Octoprint. OctoPrint allows you to control the printer, monitor or start prints over a web interface and even stream video to watch your prints if you want. While technically you printer is still tied to a computer(raspberry pi), it does not tie up the use of your laptop/desktop while printing. Plus this would allow you to put your 3D printer in more locations in your home as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;OctoPrint Website &lt;a href=&quot;http://octoprint.org/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://octoprint.org/&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the OctoPi distribution &lt;a href=&quot;http://octoprint.org/download/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://octoprint.org/download/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="762" LastActivityDate="2016-03-01T04:02:16.197" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="662" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11" CreationDate="2016-03-01T04:24:56.943" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Make sure your printer is properly calibrated and that there are no jams as this can cause blobs or other defects on the object. Printing at a higher resolution would also make the object smoother, as there would also be less difference between each layer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The filament that you are using could be a cause for the rough look as well. Make sure you play around with the temperature to find the right range for a specific brand of filament. I have noticed different brands tend to print better at different temperatures, and if it too low could cause flow issues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also leaving PLA out in the air tends to have it absorb moisture which is also no good. If you are not going to use it for a while put the filament back in a resealable bag with a desiccant to help keep moisture out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't want to see the printed layers you could also try melting the surface again with a heat gun to smooth out the object. &lt;em&gt;Be careful not to overheat the object&lt;/em&gt;, because could you could discoloring or cause drooping.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="762" LastActivityDate="2016-03-01T04:24:56.943" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="664" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="214" CreationDate="2016-03-01T10:05:04.887" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;As general advice, regardless of your printer, extruders tend to clog if:&#xA;[Some of them might not apply to every printer, but they should be as general as possible]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;you let the filament run out mid print, most extruders have a &quot;dead zone&quot; between the grinding wheel and the hot end, in which if the filaments stays stuck there, your only option is to open the extruder&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;you let a filament create knots with no one present to readily fix the knots, or the grinding wheel will saw the filament, leading to (1) plus a clogged grinding wheel: more often than not the quality of a filament brand is measured by the presence or absence of knots.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;you let the hot head stay hot without printing for too long, it will fill of melted filament leading to risk of it carbonizing inside the extruder, leading one again to (1)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;you use flex or rubber material which have the added complexity of grinding against the common plastic guides of the filaments feeders: depending on the material used, you might decide to avoid using the guides and feeding the extruder directly&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;you print at higher qualities (e.g. 0.1 mm) leads to lower filament throughput that can become stuck if the nozzle is too wide (and the grinding wheel goes too fast)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;you never clean (i.e. blowing will suffice) the grinding wheel: filament dust sticks there increasingly over time.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;you let the extruder is too close to the plate: if the filament is not free to fall on plate as it should (settings-wise) it will fill the hot end back up leading to clogs&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;you print wood, brick and derivate filaments: they are highly unhealthy for the extruder since they are plastic/resin charged with wood powder. The powder tends to a) burn and b) stick to the internal walls of the extruder.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I can think of more I will add them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="688" LastActivityDate="2016-03-01T10:05:04.887" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="665" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="456" CreationDate="2016-03-01T10:14:39.027" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You don't need a specific menu for this (although some printers are more able than others to do the following procedure), just play with the filament loading procedure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although better print qualities are given by sticking (if possible) to the same color and filament, when you have to &quot;flush out&quot; any trace:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;get an &lt;strong&gt;ABS&lt;/strong&gt; filament of the &lt;strong&gt;most neutral color&lt;/strong&gt; possible, getting a spool dedicated to this task might be a good idea&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;load the neutral ABS at 250 degrees (or higher) and let it extrude &lt;strong&gt;freely&lt;/strong&gt; and &lt;strong&gt;quickly&lt;/strong&gt; for &lt;strong&gt;at least&lt;/strong&gt; 1 meter.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;if you need to clean more, extrude at least 3 meters&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;if you can't get ABS (the best option) you can use PLA, but results may vary...&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;if you can't get neutral color (absence or almost no color pigment), white is the best choice, otherwise black. Neutral color is best by far for obvious reasons.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="688" LastEditorUserId="688" LastEditDate="2016-03-01T10:49:13.297" LastActivityDate="2016-03-01T10:49:13.297" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="666" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="642" CreationDate="2016-03-01T10:43:18.500" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;As suggested by Ryan Carlyle you will need to use heat to reflow the plastic. However I recommend against using a heat gun as generally you want a very concentrated small area to be heated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have had great success in using a soldering iron with the tip placed close to (but obviously not touching) the problem area. Keeping within about 3-5mm has very good results, is easier to control and position. This limits the impact to the surrounding areas and can let you get into small crevices etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just be careful not to touch the part.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="660" LastEditorUserId="660" LastEditDate="2016-03-04T08:36:53.110" LastActivityDate="2016-03-04T08:36:53.110" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="667" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="672" CreationDate="2016-03-01T14:04:02.353" Score="1" ViewCount="1392" Body="&lt;p&gt;We have a Makerbot Replicator 2X at our school.  I have a class in the computer lab and one of our focuses is using the printer. Currently, it is not printing properly.  We are using PLA at 210 degrees Celcius.  The built plate is not heated (using Build Tak).  This has worked very well in the past.  The problem is that when the extruder goes to lay down plastic, the filament is too hot and curls up in a clump around the extruder.  This is characteristic of when we first tried PLA at a higher temperature.  I think that our heat sensor is not working properly.  Does anyone know how we can fix this problem?  Is there a way to calibrate the sensor is should we install a new one?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="664" LastActivityDate="2016-03-01T22:30:00.117" Title="Heat sensor problems with Makerbot Replicator 2X" Tags="|extruder|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="668" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="667" CreationDate="2016-03-01T14:58:08.280" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The temperature is fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my experience the filament curls up only when the extruder is extruding way up, far from the plate: are you experiencing this while actually printing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If yes: recalibrate the printer so that the extruder is closer to the build plate and this shouldn't happen. For the filament to curl up it means you are way higher than you should be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="688" LastActivityDate="2016-03-01T14:58:08.280" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="669" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="671" CreationDate="2016-03-01T17:23:07.397" Score="5" ViewCount="177" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am following this video series to add auto-leveling to my Prusa i3.  &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/awsI9bMndJA&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://youtu.be/awsI9bMndJA&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have printed the parts I need and have the servo and ss-5 endstop in my cart at Amazon.  What I need to know is what wiring I need to connect the endstop to the RAMPs board?  I bought this printer as a kit and all parts were included so I am learning slowly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The switch&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B00HPLBAYW&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HPLBAYW?psc=1&amp;amp;redirect=true&amp;amp;ref_=ox_sc_act_title_3&amp;amp;smid=AZHZ102UTKBMA&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="768" LastActivityDate="2016-03-01T21:47:55.713" Title="parts for autoleveling Prusa i3" Tags="|ramps-1.4|prusa-i3|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="670" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="699" CreationDate="2016-03-01T20:19:30.800" Score="1" ViewCount="865" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm building my own 3D printer (custom design, made by me and cut using a water cutting machine) but I have always had problems with the hotend clogging.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have had four hotends:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a J-Head;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a full metal;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a full metal made by me and;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;my current hotend which is just a block of aluminium with a plaster cold-end 100% homemade with no precision at all.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Believe it or not, this hotend is the only one that has finished a whole print (about 40 minutes), all of the others, with or without fans, haven't managed to finish one!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Well... this hotend has a 1.5mm hole so I guess that that's why it can print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem with all of the others was that the 1.75mm PLA that I'm using clogged the hotend after two minutes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now I would like to buy a new, more precise, hotend. I'm using a Bowden extruder, can you suggest a good hotend?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is my printer:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://s10.postimg.org/mhk71hq0p/IMG_20160302_204645713.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://s10.postimg.org/mhk71hq0p/IMG_20160302_204645713.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Print1&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://s23.postimg.org/c7u1n63nf/IMG_20160302_204636873.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://s23.postimg.org/c7u1n63nf/IMG_20160302_204636873.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Print2&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="770" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-03-10T09:42:35.427" LastActivityDate="2016-11-18T07:41:04.927" Title="Which hotend does not clog and is good to use with a Bowden 1.75 mm setup?" Tags="|extruder|extrusion|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="7" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="671" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="669" CreationDate="2016-03-01T21:47:55.713" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You just need some wires, nothing special about them. You can use any wire that's flexible enough. For the endstop you'll need 2 wires, for the servo (if you need to extend the cable) 3. The connectors on the end are known as dupont connectors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastActivityDate="2016-03-01T21:47:55.713" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="672" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="667" CreationDate="2016-03-01T22:30:00.117" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Overall, it is unlikely that the problem is temp sensing accuracy. There are only a few things that will throw off the thermocouple's reading:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Poor thermal coupling between the tip and the hot block, such as if the tip has partially pulled free of the brass thermowell crimp (this will make the hot block hotter than the reported temp)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Loss of electrical insulation between the tip and the hot block, plus some ground loop noise or stray voltage on the hot block (this will typically add noise to the reported temp)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should be able to visually check for the first, and test for the second with a multimeter. The resistance between the board end of the thermocouple leads and the brass thermowell at the tip should be infinite / out of range. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To actually check the thermocouple calibration, you have a few options:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Easy:&lt;/strong&gt; Look at the behavior of the printed plastic. PLA that is too hot will smell of pancakes/waffles much stronger than normal, or even smell burnt. The printed material may be more shiny than usual. It will string and ooze more as you print.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Moderate:&lt;/strong&gt; Secure another reference thermocouple (such as might come with a digital multimeter) tightly to the hot block with some Kapton tape, somewhere the aluminum block is exposed. The external TC should read within a few degrees of the printer's TC. (Assuming you get it attached well enough.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Hard:&lt;/strong&gt; Place the tip of the TC in boiling water to check if it reads 100C (or slightly lower if you live at a high altitude). Repeat with well-mixed ice water to check if it reads 0C. Both measurements should be within a couple degrees. You will probably need to dismantle much of the extruder to detach the thermocouple for this test.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But, again, the problem probably isn't the TC. It's more likely either a bed tramming issue (eg too much gap between nozzle and surface) or the BuildTak is degraded and not adhering. This can happen if you do a large number of prints in the exact same place, or get the surface oily, such as with fingerprints. Try a fresh sheet of buildtak or cleaning it with rubbing alcohol and moving the print to a different location. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In some rare cases, low-quality filament or filament stored in very high humidity may not stick well. This is pretty rare though. For the most part, if your nozzle gap is right, any extruded plastic will stick to Buildtak. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="298" LastActivityDate="2016-03-01T22:30:00.117" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="673" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="674" CreationDate="2016-03-02T00:59:15.623" Score="2" ViewCount="1062" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been searching, but I'm coming up empty-handed. They have a file for the TAZ with the 0.35mm nozzle, but I'm not certain if I can just change the nozzle size and be done with it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="773" LastActivityDate="2016-03-02T04:05:40.757" Title="Does anyone have a Simplify3D configuration file for a Lulzbot TAZ 5 with a 0.5mm nozzle?" Tags="|desktop-printer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="674" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="673" CreationDate="2016-03-02T04:05:40.757" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Have you tried the configuration assistant under the &quot;Help&quot; menu?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TwLm2.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TwLm2.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;From S3D 3.0.2&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And yes, you can just change the nozzle size in the process &quot;Extruder&quot; tab and be done with it, if you're using auto extrusion width. If you're using manual extrusion width, also change that to be equal or greater than the nozzle size. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;S3D will handle everything else. It's not a bad idea to recalibrate extrusion multiplier (with 100% infill 20x20 calibration boxes) but it isn't strictly necessary. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;General tip for switching to a larger nozzle: while you get used to it, make sure you preview your sliced files carefully looking for areas with gaps or missing details smaller than the extrusion width. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="298" LastActivityDate="2016-03-02T04:05:40.757" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="676" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="849" CreationDate="2016-03-02T09:29:08.800" Score="3" ViewCount="590" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am optimizing a collection of slicing profiles and in the process of upgrading some profiles from the classic Makerbot Smart Extruder to the new Smart Extruder+.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are the parameters that should be changed with the new extruder?&#xA;Are there any params to which the new extruder is more &quot;sensitive&quot;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="688" LastActivityDate="2016-03-22T09:18:23.690" Title="Settings to change when upgrading from Smart Extruder to Smart Extruder+" Tags="|fdm|pla|makerbot|slicing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="677" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="678" CreationDate="2016-03-02T18:06:22.483" Score="4" ViewCount="2723" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can not find anywhere default steps per unit for Makerbot replicaor 2. I'm using Ramp V1.4 instead original board and need to know default steps :/&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="787" LastActivityDate="2016-03-02T20:15:06.583" Title="default axis steps per unit Makerbot replicator 2" Tags="|makerbot|marlin|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="678" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="677" CreationDate="2016-03-02T20:15:06.583" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Replicator 2 and 2x use 18 tooth GT2 pulleys, 1/16 microstepping, and 200 steps/rev steppers. That makes the proper steps/mm value 88.888889. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that Makerbot used ~88.56 steps/mm in their defaults, which is the value you get if you calculate from the belt+pulley pitch diameter from the Gates GT2 specs. But this is the value you use for calculating belt length required in a closed loop, not for steps/mm. The 88.88... number is more accurate. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="298" LastActivityDate="2016-03-02T20:15:06.583" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="679" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="612" CreationDate="2016-03-03T09:12:38.827" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found a solution to my problem, which is very similar to your!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ok, so first, this clog has nothing to do with the flow rate! speed, retraction, or acceleration!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;why? because if it under extrusion or over extrusion, the nozzle would spill more or less filament, but it would not make the extruder clog. To make it clog, there must be something that block the path which make the step driver couldn't push the filament through right? even using your hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This problem is call &quot;heat creep&quot;, especially if you print small detail things. This is because small details make the filament stay inside the nozzle longer, which the heat eventually make the filament swole up and block the path. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To find out if your problem is cause by &quot;heat creep&quot; or not, try to print something small but tall and print something large overall. If it is heat creep, then the small but tall print would immediately clog your nozzle and make the step driver create click sound. If both print ( small and big ) take the same amount of time to clog your nozzle, then it may not cause by &quot;heat creep&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;SO HERE the solution for &quot;heat creep.&quot; First and the most important, replace your thermal barrier tube. Second, lower the temperature. Third, check the filament guide components such as the drive gear, bearing, and spring. For example, check the drive gear if it securely screw into the stepper motor. Lastly, check the fan, if it possible, install another fan to cool down the thermal barrier tube. In conclusion, replace your thermal barrier before doing anything else.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope this help for you and for many other people! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alopicaso!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="765" LastActivityDate="2016-03-03T09:12:38.827" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="683" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="684" CreationDate="2016-03-03T17:07:09.360" Score="5" ViewCount="215" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have seen some lasers attached to the RepRap platform for cutting but most seem to be cutting paper, balsa wood, or merely etching.  If I were wanting to build a platform for cutting wood, similar to the wood framed or boxed 3D printers on the market, what power laser would I need for that?  I assume that a lower powered laser would have to travel slower but going too slow would add the possibility of catching the wood on fire (not good).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="768" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2018-08-16T09:27:35.267" LastActivityDate="2018-08-16T09:27:35.267" Title="Laser cutting on RepRap" Tags="|reprap|replacement-parts|laser|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="684" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="683" CreationDate="2016-03-03T22:36:26.237" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Please do not go down this road. First, not all lasers are equally absorbed by the material and the energy converted to heat to vaporize the material. The light not absorbed is reflected right back into your eyes. This is especially dangerous because it doesn't make you go blind instantly, fooling you into thinking there is no harm. You got the other part right, the lower the laser power, the less turned to heat, the longer it takes to cut, the longer you risk exposure to your eyes. That's right, a low powered laser is MORE dangerous than a big one. Next, the only way to properly cut is with air assist. This means a stream of air blows away the vaporized material so the laser can keep cutting deeper. This also prevents fires. The thing we haven't even touched is a proper safety enclosure, proper bed design to not reflect the laser beam back into the laser killing it and your eyes, and finally smoke/particle exhaust. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Simply put, these cheapo DIY lasers are dangerous, and are also illegal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="810" LastActivityDate="2016-03-03T22:36:26.237" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="685" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="683" CreationDate="2016-03-03T23:03:46.077" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Strapping a laser to a cheap robot made with flammable plastic parts and no enclosure is stupid in the extreme. Don't do it. Seriously, just don't. &lt;strong&gt;RepRaps are not suitable for laser conversions.&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You have to worry about reflected light damaging your eyes, and for the blue diode lasers currently growing in popularity, causing skin melanomas. You have to worry about mechanical vibration from jerky motion loosening fasteners. You have to worry about the workpiece catching on fire. You have to worry about the fumes being generated from etching and cutting. You have to worry about firmware freezes locking the laser on. It's dangerous to you, anybody in line of sight of the machine, and your property. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many of the lasers currently being sold for RepRap conversions, particularly from Russia, violate US and EU safety regulations related to power and safety interlocks and should not be on the market at all. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The people posting videos of their RepRap laser conversions are almost always ignorant of proper laser safety requirements and regulations. It's downright scary how much blue flare you can see the camera picking up in a lot of these videos. Don't follow in those people's footsteps. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More directly answering the question details, most people doing light etching or paper cutting type work are using small 0.5-2W diode lasers. These are particularly dangerous because they have poor focus and because they don't have the power to cut cleanly and quickly. That means more fumes, more fire risk, and more damage to the workpiece from edge charring. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Slowing down the laser is not a good solution: dwell time is your enemy. You want a beam powerful enough to near-instantly vaporize the material, not slowly burn it away. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An entry-level proper lasercutter for cutting things like plywood and acrylic is more likely to use a 40w CO2 laser. It should have air assist and fume extraction, and a safety-interlocked enclosure that 100% reflects or absorbs the CO2 laser light wavelength. That basically means a dedicated machine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="298" LastActivityDate="2016-03-03T23:03:46.077" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="686" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="688" CreationDate="2016-03-04T00:01:02.383" Score="10" ViewCount="9453" Body="&lt;p&gt;Using an FDM printer and PLA or ABS, without adding support material. What modifications can I make to improve how steep an overhang my printer can print before it starts having problems?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The obvious first answer is to add a cooling fan, increasing the airflow over the freshly-extruded material ensuring it solidifies. What other things can improve it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does lowing the temperature help? Raising it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does speeding up or slowing down the print head help?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does increasing/decreasing the extrusion diameter, or layer height help?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="131" LastActivityDate="2016-03-04T17:49:13.747" Title="How can I improve the overhang angles my printer can successfully print?" Tags="|print-quality|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="687" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="686" CreationDate="2016-03-04T01:25:24.793" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's an answer &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/519/how-to-improve-face-that-are-printed-on-support?answertab=oldest#tab-top&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; that holds some of the same concepts. Regarding your questions: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Does lowering the temperature help? Raising it?&lt;/strong&gt; : Yes, lowering the temperature can help. I've found that it is best to stay closer to the lower end of the material's melting point and just a bit above the point. Not only does this help with potential over extrusion, but also shortens the time it takes for the material to cool (refer to the link above). &lt;em&gt;However&lt;/em&gt;, this could cause clogging if your temperature is too low. Keep an eye on your drive gear to see if there is too much friction while at lower temperatures. Increasing may keep the drive gear from &quot;eating&quot; your filament.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Does speeding up or slowing down the print head help?&lt;/strong&gt; : I prefer to print slower, most of the time, to allow the material to cool a bit more to avoid curling/warping (I primarily print with ABS, so it matters more). You might be able to give and take between temperature and speed. Consider if your nozzle is cooler and your speed is up, bridging gaps might yield the same results as if you proportionately swap these two values. This concept may only matter if you are in a pinch to get the part done. Again, I prefer slowing my machine down as it allows current/previous layers to cool more before continuing. This can be especially helpful with overhangs when paired with lowering your nozzle temperature.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Does increasing/decreasing the extrusion diameter, or layer height help&lt;/strong&gt; - I assume that extrusion diameter equals layer height (not difference in nozzle diameter, aka swapping nozzles). I'm not completely sure, but I think this depends on the part as well as slicing engine settings. For me, MakerWare is pretty good about proportionately adjusting extrusion steps with layer height, so I see an equal change in the width of the extrusion. I would think that in general, a larger layer height would yield a larger extrusion width. This would be helpful when printing overhangs, but may not be helpful when printing bridges (a larger strand will retain heat longer than a smaller one).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hopefully this helps, please comment if you need more information/clarification.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="98" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T13:00:58.447" LastActivityDate="2016-03-04T17:49:13.747" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="688" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="686" CreationDate="2016-03-04T02:30:31.700" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;The two most important things you can do are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Provide adequate cooling to solidify the plastic quickly&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Minimize layer height&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cooling is really obvious. You need the plastic to solidify before it has a chance to sag. PLA in particular has to shed a lot of heat before it is fully solid. A fan and air guide setup using a &quot;squirrel-cage&quot; radial blower around the nozzle is optimal. A little 30mm or 40mm axial fan will not provide optimal performance. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Low layer height when slicing is less obvious, but is extremely effective. When you use thinner layers, two things happen:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There is less melted plastic per pass and a higher surface area to volume ratio, so the fresh material cools faster. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A larger percentage of each strand in the overhang is supported by the previous strand. If you do 0.2mm thick by 0.4mm wide, half of each strand is unsupported. But if you do 0.1mm thick by 0.4mm wide, only a quarter of each strand is unsupported. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you combine these two effects, it is possible to exceed 70 degree overhangs with good surface quality. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another lesser factor is printing shells/perimeters inside-out rather than outside-in. This helps anchor the outermost strand a little better as the overhang is built. This is pretty minor though. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="298" LastActivityDate="2016-03-04T02:30:31.700" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="690" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="209" CreationDate="2016-03-04T09:05:35.593" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Typical procedure on the casting is to use the lost-wax method, and using PLA is absolutely fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Print your part at around 101% - 103% size&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Attach flues to the part (or have them part of the model)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cast the part in a mixture of sand and plaster of paris&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Once set, burn out the PLA in a furnace.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Clean the mould of debris&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pour your metal of choice&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a more detailed reference, check out the following:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WWVVSZP3Au4&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WWVVSZP3Au4&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regarding the printing itself, my only advice is to use a small layer height and carefully clean up the part before casting&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="660" LastActivityDate="2016-03-04T09:05:35.593" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="694" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-06T19:25:25.580" Score="4" ViewCount="1300" Body="&lt;p&gt;My Printrbot is always printing stringy, despite changing the setting on my z probe by entering command M212 Z-.1 through Z-1.5, with and without a heated bed. My prints look roughly like the one on the left. How do I fix this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://brazenartifice.files.wordpress.com/2011/11/first-prints-with-mendel-prusa-1.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://brazenartifice.files.wordpress.com/2011/11/first-prints-with-mendel-prusa-1.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="850" LastEditorUserId="850" LastEditDate="2016-03-08T00:10:17.467" LastActivityDate="2016-03-08T17:54:22.687" Title="Printerbot printing stringy" Tags="|print-quality|z-axis|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="696" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="702" CreationDate="2016-03-07T08:08:59.980" Score="4" ViewCount="499" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to secure my hotend thermistor in a more reliable way (now it is just thermistor plugged in the hotend :D). I want to have a stainless steel tip for it to fix it inside hotend with a screw (The same approach as used for the heating cartridge). I have thermistors, but I cannot find any tips to buy separately.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maybe you have some links for this kind of stainless-steel tips? Or some keywords I can use to search them?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="787" LastEditorUserId="168" LastEditDate="2016-03-07T15:53:52.213" LastActivityDate="2018-08-15T08:45:40.360" Title="Stainless tip for thermistor" Tags="|extruder|hotend|thermistor|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="698" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="642" CreationDate="2016-03-07T12:40:55.633" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have had success in 2 ways. After sanding, a little polishing with oil (vegetable oil is fine) will help to bring the colour back. If the oil gets cleaned off however you get back to the whitening again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm also a a big fan of the reheating. It works on ABS too. I haven't used a heat gun though, only an open flame. I have had success with a lighter, and with a cook's blowtorch, this way you can be very localised in where you heat, but you need to be VERY brief. With a lighter just flicker the flame over the area concerned; with a blowtorch, start from far away and move the flame in and out of target until you see the whitening start to go. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A little practice on a part that is not too important would be prudent, and please be careful. I take no responsibility for you burning yourself :).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="864" LastActivityDate="2016-03-07T12:40:55.633" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="699" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="670" CreationDate="2016-03-07T13:12:14.057" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;To make the &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/670/which-hotend-does-not-clog-and-is-good-to-use-with-a-bowden-1-75-mm-setup#comment-874&quot;&gt;suggestion of Martin Carney&lt;/a&gt; a real answer and shift things away from comments:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, moisture and dust can be a problem. Find elaborations on the moisture here:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/84/does-filament-have-to-be-stored-in-an-airtight-environment&quot;&gt;Does filament have to be stored in an airtight environment&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, dust getting into the hot end won't make extrusion easier. (link with suitable information needed). There are filament cleaning 'devices' for print on thingiverse, have a look at things with the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/tag:filament_cleaner&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;tag: filament cleaner&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are some other things that are mostly discussed in relation to hot-end clogging, which are printing speed, retract setting and what I would call hot-end resistance. For all of those, read through this thread and refine your question according to what you tried and what the results were:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/612/repeatedly-clogged-printrbot-simple-extruder&quot;&gt;Repeatedly Clogged Printrbot Simple Extruder&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="168" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T13:00:58.447" LastActivityDate="2016-11-18T07:41:04.927" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="700" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="696" CreationDate="2016-03-07T14:45:46.733" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am not too sure what you're searching for, but I imagine it to be a kind of thermistor housing to distribute pressure from the screw while maintaining good heat conductance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I first have to say that I'd be afraid to damage the glass droplet of the typical thermistor design by putting pressure to them, especially including later thermal expansion. However, I never tried and we might find some valuable experience on that in other answers here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If what I assumed in the first paragraph is true, I would suggest forming some housing yourself with copper foil or copper sheets, since the heat conductance of copper is good and it is more or less soft.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;However, as a more simple solution, you might just cut the metal part of a 'wire ferrule', if you got some lying around. (Wikipedia has no english article for this, so I link the german one for the images: &lt;a href=&quot;https://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Aderendh%C3%BClse&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Aderendhülse&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additional info: Can't you clamp the thermistor the way it is done in the E3D V6 hotend, see &lt;a href=&quot;https://raw.githubusercontent.com/3DModularSystems/Scalar/master/Documentation/Photos/Head/E3D%20V6/Head%20-%20012%20-%20ThermistorBent.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this image&lt;/a&gt;? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/s3HU1.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Thermistor in E3D V6 hotend&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/s3HU1.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Thermistor in E3D V6 hotend&quot; title=&quot;Thermistor in E3D V6 hotend&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thermal contact should be quite good and you don't have any problems which could lead to damage of the thermistor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="168" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-08-15T08:45:40.360" LastActivityDate="2018-08-15T08:45:40.360" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="701" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="696" CreationDate="2016-03-07T16:59:38.457" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;My thermistors came with a small spring surrounding them, which seems to work pretty well for this (see also &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/293&quot;&gt;E3D Thermistor Alternative&lt;/a&gt;). It's pretty close to the size of the spring in an ordinary pen, so you could just try one of those, or you could wind one from copper wire. I always use thermal grease as well, just like you'd use for heat sinks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/1377/6475/products/Thermistor_Wired_Black_grande.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;image&lt;/a&gt; from &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.b3innovations.com/products/thermistors-gen1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;B3 Innovations - Thermistors (Gen1)&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cMEvw.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Thermistors (Gen1)&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cMEvw.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Thermistors (Gen1)&quot; title=&quot;Thermistors (Gen1)&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-08-15T08:42:09.370" LastActivityDate="2018-08-15T08:42:09.370" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="702" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="696" CreationDate="2016-03-07T17:07:13.353" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The main problem here is that the hot block has to match the temp sensor. There are a couple available commercial options for hotblocks with cartridge-and-setscrew temp sensors, but they're not thermistors:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;E3D PT100 RTD -- requires a special amp (&lt;a href=&quot;http://e3d-online.com/V6-PT100-Sensor-Kit&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://e3d-online.com/V6-PT100-Sensor-Kit&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ka7BT.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ka7BT.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Carl Raffle Tecto Heater Block with thermocouple -- works as-is in Mightyboard-based printers, but requires a thermocouple amp for boards that use thermistors (&lt;a href=&quot;http://shop.raffle.ch/shop/tecto-heater-block/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://shop.raffle.ch/shop/tecto-heater-block/&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/x3QLT.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/x3QLT.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other popular options for thermocouples include a brass thermowell crimped onto the tip of the TC (Makerbot and FlashForge) or an eyelet lug crimped onto the tip of the TC (Wanhao). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The best off-the-shelf solution for most printers is probably to use an E3Dv6 hot block, which uses a screw and washer to clamp the thermistor leads so the glass bead tip can't pull free of its pocket. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="298" LastActivityDate="2016-03-07T17:07:13.353" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="703" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="707" CreationDate="2016-03-07T18:42:44.330" Score="7" ViewCount="786" Body="&lt;p&gt;In a design that I need to prototype, I have a coaxial, rotational joint between 2 cylinders connected to another coaxial rotational joint between 2 cylinders by a hinge. I have attached the individual part files as well as their assembly where you can use your mouse cursor to check how they move. &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B8GACx5kXowlcEwxOWI4REV6OFk&amp;amp;usp=sharing&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Click here for the SolidWorks parts and assembly files&quot;&gt;Click here for the SolidWorks parts and assembly files&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Initially when I 3d printed them by splitting them in half, the outer tube did not close, even after filing the inner tube sufficiently. &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OjlVJ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OjlVJ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could you tell me an alternative method to get this complicated joint working? I need to 3D print them. I plan to use ABS for the 3D printing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for your patience :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT:&#xA;Lubrication: I plan to use grease to lubricate the sliding surfaces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Clearances:&#xA;I printed them without clearances initially (this is my first ever 3D print and I wanted to know how accurate it would be). I then used Dremel and filing tools to file away about 0.5 mm of both the surfaces. It should have been enough for mating the parts. The gap between the edges of the outer shell while trying to close it around is 3-4 mm which doesn't suggest 3D printing inaccuracy. I suspect that the outer tube isn't circular enough in cross section. It meets the inner tube at the the two ends of the semicircle and not inside its belly (you can see it in the picture). I have already tried the obvious, which is removing material from the surfaces wherever the parts touch. The model seems to be too warped for any success. The parts were printed upwards from the bottom, so it is not the warping due to gravity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="870" LastEditorUserId="870" LastEditDate="2020-01-25T17:00:38.040" LastActivityDate="2020-01-25T17:00:38.040" Title="Is 3D printing feasible for a coaxial rotational joint?" Tags="|fdm|abs|3d-models|3d-design|support-structures|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="704" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="703" CreationDate="2016-03-08T02:01:06.123" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Have you considered to use a service to have the part printed? You can print almost anything in one &quot;pass&quot; using selective laser sintering, typically done in nylon. I am currently un-boxing an SLS printer, so I cannot currently offer to print it, but the capabilities of SLS are substantial for parts of this nature. I've read of entire planetary gearboxes being printed, fully assembled, with appropriate clearances for operation, once removed and &quot;dusted,&quot; or cleaned of residual powder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The printer I hope to be assembling soon has 80 micron powder, so the resolution is quite high, although I forget at the moment the x/y/z figures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do you think such a method would suit your purposes?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit (add):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;because FDM printing by nature causes &quot;oozing&quot; especially in the x/y directions, I would not be surprised to learn that your outer piece has a smaller inside diameter than your design has specified. You may have to make adjustments to the design to compensate. Those adjustments would be specific to a particular printer/filament combination as well. Calibration prints would make the task slightly easier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastEditorUserId="854" LastEditDate="2016-03-08T10:17:06.893" LastActivityDate="2016-03-08T10:17:06.893" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="706" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="703" CreationDate="2016-03-08T05:09:09.727" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Depending on your tolerances and how many you need - and how valuable your time is - you can 3D print in ABS with a regular FDM printer, then clear out support material and do an Acetone vapor treatment or vapor wash. It will be smooth enough for most prototypes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="879" LastActivityDate="2016-03-08T05:09:09.727" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="707" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="703" CreationDate="2016-03-08T06:53:13.527" Score="4" Body="&lt;h3&gt;Consider ball bearings&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on the requirements for your joint, I would consider making a design that utilizes &lt;em&gt;ball bearings&lt;/em&gt;. With ball bearings, your join will not wear down as quickly, and also move smoothly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Handling dimensional inaccuracy&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The topic of how to achieve dimensional accuracy of FDM printers has already been discussed in &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/322/how-to-achieve-dimensional-accuracy-of-printed-parts/&quot;&gt;this question&lt;/a&gt;. You might want have a look at &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/357/115&quot;&gt;Ryan Carlyle's answer&lt;/a&gt; for a specific routine on how to calibrate a Cartesian printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the question linked, a summarized approach for handling dimensional inaccuracy could be:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Add any desired tolerances into the joint in your CAD model, without regarding the inaccuracy of the actual printer you will use.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tune your printer and slicer to reproduce those dimensions set by your CAD program.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Generally speaking, the printer settings should handle filament independent dimensional accuracy, while the slicer should be used to account for different characteristics in each filament type. Correcting size through your CAD model is ill-advised, since you should be able to use the same model for multiple printers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="115" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:29:41.667" LastActivityDate="2016-03-08T07:49:36.927" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="708" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="694" CreationDate="2016-03-08T17:54:22.687" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The most common cause of print issues like this is &lt;strong&gt;incorrect first-layer gap between the nozzle and bed.&lt;/strong&gt; You can tell if that's the problem by trying to print with a raft and/or letting the print continue for a while. If the raft helps and the print eventually &quot;heals up&quot; and only the bottom few mm are bad, then you have a bed leveling / nozzle gap issue The bed must be leveled to the nozzle properly, or nothing will work right. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When using a probe, you need to follow the manufacturer's instructions for how to configure it. For example, are you adjusting the Z offset in firmware configuration.h or in EEPROM? Printrbot should have a guide for this. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the nozzle gap is fine and the stringiness continues farther up the print, there are two main causes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;XY or Z movement is larger than intended due to incorrect steps/mm value or wrong microstepping setting&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Severe under-extrusion&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of the two, &lt;strong&gt;under-extrusion&lt;/strong&gt; is far more common, and unfortunately has lots of possible causes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Printing too cold for the material&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;E-axis steps/mm is incorrect for the extruder drive hardware and microstepping&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Extruder stepper current is too low&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Extruder hardware is misaligned or jamming or the teeth are full of plastic dust&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Partial nozzle clog or damaged PTFE tube in the hot end&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Commanded flow rate through the nozzle is too high, such as if you're trying to print big, fat strands at high speeds&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Incorrect slicer calibration (eg extrusion multiplier is too low) or inappropriate slicer settings (eg extrusion width too large for the nozzle size)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Excessive filament feed path drag between the spool and extruder drive&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The first under-extrusion tests you should start with are:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Preheat and try to push filament through the hot end by hand. Can you get a strand to come out without a ton of force? Does it go mostly down, or curl back up to hit the nozzle?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Remove the hot end from the extruder drive, and command 100mm of filament motion through the extruder. Measure how much travel you actually get. It should be close to 100mm. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;With the hot end removed, command some filament motion, and try to stop the filament from moving by hand. Does it take some significant force to get the extruder to stall or slip? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Based on these, you should have a better idea of what needs to be fixed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="298" LastActivityDate="2016-03-08T17:54:22.687" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="709" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-08T18:52:33.760" Score="7" ViewCount="854" Body="&lt;p&gt;One of the local libraries has a new small Makerbot 3D printer. I have been submitting Sketchup files converted to STL files for printing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The tech guy who runs the printer for patrons is having trouble getting a project of mine to come out to be the right size. I need this item go be 2 inches wide. The tech guy sizes the item on the screen to 2 inches. I watched him do it. But, the item is printed with a base of 2 inches, and the item itself comes out smaller. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone have suggestions about this? I can get more info if someone can give me the right questions to ask. The tech is open to taking suggestions. He wants to get the printer running smoothly for patrons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I submitted a file with my own base with supports made in Sketchup. But, the tech guy said he needs to set the printer to create it's own base and supports.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additional info:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I printed it by letting Makerbot create the base and supports, it came out to be 1 3/4&quot; as shown here:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://flic.kr/p/EashnD&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://flic.kr/p/EashnD&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Printer: Makerbot Replicator with Smart Extruder (not Plus).&#xA;(I am now at the library with the technician.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a screenshot of what I am trying to print. It is a replacement clip for a messenger bag. So, it has to be 2 inches across.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://flic.kr/p/EtdM6s&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://flic.kr/p/EtdM6s&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is the printer:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://flic.kr/p/E5F1M6&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://flic.kr/p/E5F1M6&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I used a website to convert the DAE file exported from Sketchup to an STL file. It was GreenToken.com.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I open the object's STL file in Tinkercad, the object appears two inches wide. And, if I open the file in one of the 3D printer websites in Tinkercad, the object appears two inches wide (in cm).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The security on the library's computers do not allow me to apply plug-ins to Sketchup. The library's Tech staff is going to eventually put the plug-in in there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it is resized to 2 inches wide in the MakerBot software to be sent to the printer, why is it printing the generated base 2 inches wide and not the object? Are there some settings the tech guy in the library is missing in this set up window? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additional notes: &#xA;The library now has the latest version of SketchUp on Macs. They are working on installing the STL plugin. (Security issues)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My process for producing an STL file to print is now this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I create something in SU and export it as a DAE file.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I have found that meshconverter.com produces better STL files than greentoken. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I then upload/fix the STL file at the netFabb website. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I then import the STL file into TinkerCad to view it. If there are problems in the file, I can see them. And, I run it through netFabb again. I can also modify the file in TinkerCad. It is no where near as sophisticated as SketchUp. But, it doesn't claim to be. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have found that there is a way to export the STL file to 3D printer hubs through TinkerCad. You can see the prices, the material available and the location of the company/person doing the printing. You can contact the printer ahead of time and they can look at your file to give you advice. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I just wanted to add that the netFabb website does not export STL files after it fixes them. It now gives you a 3MF file format when you upload an STL file. I am not sure why this happens. But, this has put a big wrench in my process. I can no longer fix SketchUp STL files with netFabb. When I bring them into TinkerCad, I see errors in the object. It seems like there are issues with complex curves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user706" LastEditorUserId="115" LastEditDate="2016-10-14T11:38:16.150" LastActivityDate="2023-10-25T11:05:07.023" Title="Print sketchup files (STL) on makerbot" Tags="|makerbot|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="710" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="712" CreationDate="2016-03-08T19:21:15.733" Score="6" ViewCount="967" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am using a MakerBot Replicator 2x, and when it is heating the platform and extruder, it begins by heating the platform, and then after that is at 110C it goes on to heat the left extruder to 230C. Does anyone know why it does this, since it has enough power to heat both? It seems like it would take less time to heat both at once.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="890" LastEditorUserId="98" LastEditDate="2016-03-21T22:51:52.843" LastActivityDate="2016-03-21T22:51:52.843" Title="Why does MakerBot Replicator heat the extruder and platform separately?" Tags="|makerbot|heated-bed|replicator-dual|hbp|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="711" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-08T19:41:20.913" Score="7" ViewCount="2405" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is the proper way to give printer settings to CuraEngine? Is it possible to put all these settings into a file (like Json formatted)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;CuraEngine.exe -v -o &quot;c:\3d\test.gcode&quot; &quot;c:\3d\test.stl&quot;&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="891" LastActivityDate="2018-08-15T12:26:16.073" Title="Settings for CuraEngine" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="712" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="710" CreationDate="2016-03-08T19:43:35.443" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;It really doesn't &lt;em&gt;quite&lt;/em&gt; have enough power to heat everything at once.&lt;/strong&gt; Initially bringing the bed up to temp takes a lot of current and so Makerbot's start sequences decrease stepper current and hold off on heating the extruder(s) until the bed is preheated. Once preheated, the bed's power draw decreases to a lower &quot;holding&quot; level and there is available capacity to do everything else.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The start sequencing decreases the max average power draw by a pretty substantial amount. The decrease is about 0.6A each for the XYAB steppers and 1.7A each for two hot ends, totalling 5-6A of avoided peak power draw. (Even lower if you preheat with the steppers disabled rather than idling.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The history here is that one of Makerbot's design decisions with the Replicator 2 and 2x was to utilize off-the-shelf UL-listed power bricks (like a laptop might use) instead of an internal power supply. This made engineering and safety certification much easier, and completely eliminated mains-voltage wiring inside the printer, which is a big safety plus. However, the largest readily-available 24v power brick had slightly less current capacity than optimal. So Makerbot came up with a software workaround for the hardware limitation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want, you can replace the stock power brick with a ~350w PSU and preheat everything at once. Sailfish firmware builds intended for printers with properly-sized PSUs (eg FlashForge Creators) will allow simultaneous preheating. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="298" LastActivityDate="2016-03-08T19:43:35.443" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="713" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-08T19:51:49.223" Score="8" ViewCount="5189" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some 3d printers use synchromesh cables instead of belts. For example, the Deezmaker Bukito (&lt;a href=&quot;http://bukito3d.com/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://bukito3d.com/&lt;/a&gt;) and a number of RepRap conversions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WYTJJ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WYTJJ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;http://christophergranz.com/?p=449&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;em&gt;Photo from &lt;a href=&quot;http://christophergranz.com/?p=449&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://christophergranz.com/?p=449&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are they significantly better than GT2 belts? What are the challenges?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="298" LastEditorUserId="298" LastEditDate="2016-03-08T20:00:24.910" LastActivityDate="2018-11-01T02:19:54.893" Title="What are the advantages/disadvantages of using synchromesh cables instead of belts?" Tags="|reprap|printer-building|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="714" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-08T19:54:06.207" Score="6" ViewCount="2267" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most 3&amp;nbsp;mm (mostly are actually 2.85&amp;nbsp;mm) filament extruders have some kind of gear reduction. Many 1.75&amp;nbsp;mm extruders are direct-drive / ungeared but some do use gears. What kind of reduction ratios are suitable or optimal?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="298" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-01-18T19:32:34.517" LastActivityDate="2020-04-23T12:45:47.483" Title="What are the appropriate ranges of gear ratios for 1.75 mm and 3 mm filament extruders?" Tags="|filament|extruder|printer-building|fdm|drive-gear|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="715" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="721" CreationDate="2016-03-09T01:37:35.403" Score="6" ViewCount="10175" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had a friend request that I print out the Bathymetry of Lake Michigan as a gift for her PhD adviser. I went to NOAA and the site had a few files for the Bathymetry of Lake Michigan.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Files and types are located here: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ngdc.noaa.gov/mgg/greatlakes/michigan.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.ngdc.noaa.gov/mgg/greatlakes/michigan.html&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am trying to convert this into an STL file to print in my 3D printer however I am having no luck in converting this into a mesh I can use. I have tried multiple approaches with the different files that are listed but cannot seem to get it to properly convert to a mesh. I have tried the following so far:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;-Import an .xyz file into MeshLab to convert it to an STL. After I import it looks like nothing imported and I can't navigate around in the file&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;-Import an ASC file into MeshLab to convert it to an STL. After I import it, I get no errors but the output is a long, thin mesh that looks nothing like lake Michigan&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;-Just for a test, I imported the .xyz file into Autodesk ReCap just to see what would happen. I noticed that the points were in a long thin area similar to the ASC import but as I browsed around I noticed that the each layer of dots was the actual Bathymetry contours.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have tried multiple approaches and software beyond these but can't seem to get the files to convert into a printable mesh that I can manipulate to send to my 3D printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="894" LastActivityDate="2022-08-02T16:46:36.407" Title="Point Cloud to STL File" Tags="|software|3d-models|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="716" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="714" CreationDate="2016-03-09T02:08:11.520" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$ \frac{(2.85\ mm)^2}{(1.75\ mm)^2}=2.65$&lt;/span&gt; which is the reduction you would want assuming a 1.75 is direct drive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this answer I am comparing the amount of filament flowing though the extruder by using &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$ \pi \times r^2$&lt;/span&gt;.  Dividing the 2 values gives the ratio of the 2 speeds.  A gear ratio is them used to change the speed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="43" LastEditorUserId="2338" LastEditDate="2020-04-23T12:45:47.483" LastActivityDate="2020-04-23T12:45:47.483" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="718" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="713" CreationDate="2016-03-09T09:01:48.890" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Looking at the specs for both the GT2 belt and the Synchromesh I'm very hesitant to recommend a Synchromesh over a belt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first thing that sticks out is that there are both error and cumulative error specifications for the Synchromesh. For a device like a 3D printer, I don't like the idea that of my axes can accumulate up to ±0.16 in. of error over 100 pitches (the pitch is between 0.12 in. and 0.25 in. so that is 12 to 25 in.). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Contrast this to a belt where the only way you have a cumulative error is if you skip a tooth and I think the winner is the GT2.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looking at the non-cumulative pitch error both products are comparable but again the belt wins. For the Synchromesh we have an accuracy of ±0.002 in. versus ±0.0003(1) in. for a 2 mm GT2 belt and ±0.0012(1) in. for a 3 mm GT2 belt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Note:&lt;/strong&gt; I can't be certain about exact values for error since there are no numbers for the GT2 - only a stupid chart. I also have a hard time believing that error is not a function of total length for both the Synchromesh and the GT2 belt but I'm not the manufacturer. However, since both products are made by the same company I wouldn't be as concerned about them trying to oversell one product over the other.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;In conclusion, I don't see of any reason to choose a Synchromesh over a belt if your physical layout is compatible with both. As pointed out in the marketing material for the Synchromesh, it can be routed along 3 axes whereas a belt works best along a single axis. The Synchromesh seems to be a product designed for a very specific application...&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Sources&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sdp-si.com/PDFS/Technical-Section-Timing.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.sdp-si.com/PDFS/Technical-Section-Timing.pdf&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sdp-si.com/PDFS/Synchromesh-Cable-and-Attachment-Inch.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.sdp-si.com/PDFS/Synchromesh-Cable-and-Attachment-Inch.pdf&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="66" LastActivityDate="2016-03-09T09:01:48.890" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="720" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="715" CreationDate="2016-03-09T14:26:21.353" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was able to download the file collection from the link you posted, although I used none of the Grid files, as they seemed inappropriate to this task. The shape files were then imported into AutoCAD using the trial version of  &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.spatialmanager.com/spm-forautocad/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Spatial Manager&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The resulting drawing indicates that it's in 3D. When the 3D orbit tool is selected, the image rotates a flat drawing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I saved the AutoCAD DWG file and imported it with SketchUp, ostensibly not the smartest program for this sort of thing. The result was a flat image, not a 3D one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suspect that the resulting flat drawing IS the image and cannot be 3D printed, unless you have reason to believe otherwise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/guL1k.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/guL1k.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastActivityDate="2016-03-09T14:26:21.353" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="721" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="715" CreationDate="2016-03-09T15:12:20.910" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;In order to properly get an STL file out of a point cloud, you'll need some tool to help triangulate the points to create proper shell surfaces. The shell that is created in an STL is what the slicing engine will &amp;quot;slice&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not as familiar with the full potential of MeshLab, but I would think this tool is best suited for files that at least have most of shell already in place. Essentially best for fixing STL's.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the past, I've used (the very expensive) Unigraphics NX8. This CAD/CAM software is very powerful and has tools for creating meshes out of point clouds. I believe it was the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/?gws_rd=ssl#q=unigraphics%20nx8%20sew&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;sew tool&lt;/a&gt; that allowed me to do this in the past (I no longer have access to the software). Other CAD programs such as SolidWorks, Rhino, AutoCAD, etc. might have similar features.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively, I think it looks like you might be able to convert a 3D point cloud in SketchUp. If the cloud is layered by height and each layer had points on the same -Z- plane, then you might be able to automate creating lines between the nearest points on the same plane. Then it might just take a little bit of manual labor to &amp;quot;fix&amp;quot; the model to become 3D printing ready. Also check out &lt;a href=&quot;http://sketchucation.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=79&amp;amp;t=56135&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this forum post&lt;/a&gt;, it looks like someone had luck in converting terrain point clouds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Completely alternatively, have you considered converting an image to STL? I've done this many times before and it turns out quite nicely. If you can find topographical map of the lake, you could alter the image into grayscale (play with it a bit). Then use &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:66115&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;software&lt;/a&gt; to convert the grayscale image to STL.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="98" LastEditorUserId="34923" LastEditDate="2022-08-02T16:46:36.407" LastActivityDate="2022-08-02T16:46:36.407" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="722" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="727" CreationDate="2016-03-09T15:57:50.437" Score="9" ViewCount="11914" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have recently bought a spool of eSun PETG. So far I really like the filament. My only complaint is, I get lumps of charred filament deposited on my object. The slicer I used is Craft Ware and I have played with the Far Travel -&gt; Elevation settings. I have noticed that this helps but then I have little to no adhesion to the print surface and my supports do not stick to the raft. Does any one know how to mitigated PETG from collecting on the extruder?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="909" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2018-09-19T19:16:38.977" LastActivityDate="2018-09-27T07:44:43.920" Title="PETG Collecting on the Extruder" Tags="|filament|petg|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="723" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="709" CreationDate="2016-03-09T17:56:21.450" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It appears that you have scaled the object after the raft and supports were added. As you can see in your photo of the raft, the clip is approximately 7/8ths (1.75/2) the size of the raft.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: As a side note, STL files don't actually have a concept of units. Each axis is defined in arbitrary units. That's why when you export and import it you have to set the scale appropriately. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="660" LastActivityDate="2016-03-09T17:56:21.450" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="724" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="250" CreationDate="2016-03-09T23:47:15.643" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had to design something rather like this, but I made the part that wraps around the pipe (pipe in my case - bushing in yours) into a separate piece that slotted into the main arch. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That way, the main arch could be printed with poor precision on the overhang, and the sleeve was printed on its side. It took a little work to make the slotting system fit well, but it was fine. The two arches screwed together to grip two sleeve sections. It also meant I could print the big parts quickly because their precision was less critical.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If - as you suggest - you absolutely have to print it this way, then how about pulling the top of the arch up a little; make it a bit &quot;gothic&quot; if you see what I mean. This is a variation on tjb1's idea above, but rather than have a flat at the top, organize it so there's a gentle point. That way, the printer isn't trying to draw a critical fitting over empty space, and the area that prints poorly is away from the bushing. You might have the slack to put supports back in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="895" LastEditorUserId="895" LastEditDate="2016-03-09T23:55:32.513" LastActivityDate="2016-03-09T23:55:32.513" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="726" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="769" CreationDate="2016-03-10T08:59:27.577" Score="3" ViewCount="514" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am building what I dub Frankenstein's printer from various components I could find in the electronics dumpster to print the proteins for a P3 Steel (toolson edition).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to elevate a scanner bed with an attached DVD drive motor for X-Y movements of the hotend. I plan to connect this by threaded rods to a base that also hosts the heated bed on a stury z-axis mechanism. To make this as stable as possible, I plan to conncect M8 threaded rods in the 8 edges in wooden blocks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am planning on 4 vertical rods and 2 crossing rods along the diagonals of the backside of the system. Additionally each side is planned to have one diagonal connected by a rod.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We're talking about a height of about 30cm and M8 rods. Will this introduce lots of vibrations and is it possible to avoid easily? Are there any better connection ideas or improvements I can make to this design?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*edit: here is a really bad hand-drawn sketch:&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://s10.postimg.org/3v5wpj3jd/printersketch.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;hand-drawn sketch&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="168" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-03-10T09:42:35.443" LastActivityDate="2016-03-16T04:25:19.277" Title="Threaded rods to create frame/axis connection. Which improvements can be made and are they needed?" Tags="|printer-building|quality|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="727" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="722" CreationDate="2016-03-10T20:50:21.600" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Different brands and blends of PET filaments seem to do this to different degrees. Esun's PETG is definitely one that tends to glob onto the nozzle. Basically, the nozzle plows through the top surface of the filament and lifts up some plastic, much like the bow of a ship lifting up some water at high speeds. PET's viscosity and stickiness seem to amplify this effect more than other filaments. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some things you can do to minimize the globbing:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Calibrate extrusion volume on the low end of what you'd normally use for other filaments (how you do this depends on your slicer)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use your slicer's &quot;Z-hop&quot; or &quot;avoid perimeters&quot; feature so you don't do travel moves across printed surfaces&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Invest in an anti-stick coated nozzle, such as are sold by &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.micro-swiss.com/#!3d-printing/c843&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Micro Swiss&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.p3-d.com/collections/duraplat-3d-extruder-nozzles&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Performance 3-d&lt;/a&gt; (these don't eliminate globbing, but they do reduce it and make the nozzle much easier to clean)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Play with slicer settings such as extrusion width, layer height, and infill/perimeter overlap to reduce the amount of &quot;excess material&quot; that sticks above the print surface&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Again, this is a common problem with PET blend filaments. Anecdotally, some brands seem to glob more or less than others, so switching to a different vendor may be worth trying if you want to do a lot of PETG prints. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="298" LastActivityDate="2016-03-10T20:50:21.600" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="728" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="209" CreationDate="2016-03-11T13:16:18.360" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Print a two part negative (mold) of your objects.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:31581&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:31581&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://pinshape.com/blog/how-to-generate-a-3d-printed-mold-for-an-object/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://pinshape.com/blog/how-to-generate-a-3d-printed-mold-for-an-object/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Melt and pour wax into the mold. Praffin wax melts at only 37C, not an issue for both PLA and ABS.&#xA;Use the wax object for casting, not ABS/PLA/etc.&#xA;The mold is also reusable this way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To prevent the wax from sticking to the mold, something might be applied to the surface. Oil maybe?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="381" LastActivityDate="2016-03-11T13:16:18.360" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="729" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="730" CreationDate="2016-03-11T17:42:53.527" Score="8" ViewCount="3246" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a z-axis which follows schematically the same principle as the makerbot one's (threaded rod and two leading rods with linear ball bearings carrying a level). It is from an old experimental lab doing physics or chemistry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The axis move gorgeously about 5 cm, but then it get's stuck on either sides of this way. Both driving threaded rod and the leading rods seem perfectly fine and should be able to allow for further movement. This is as far as I can see by eye.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Where should I look to find further issues and how could I improve the performance? Do I need to take the construction apart?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="168" LastEditorUserId="98" LastEditDate="2016-06-29T15:19:03.750" LastActivityDate="2016-06-29T15:19:03.750" Title="z-axis hard to move in some areas - what could be faults, how to improve?" Tags="|maintenance|mechanics|z-axis|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="730" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="729" CreationDate="2016-03-11T19:53:57.090" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There could be a few issues at play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The smooth rods are not parallel which is causing the bearings to bind the further you go up.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Part of the thread is damaged not allowing it to pass through the nut.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The threaded rod is bent significantly to where it either doesn't pass through the nut or bind the assembly. (Is the end of the threaded rod opposite the motor constrained?)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Even less likely is that the motor could be damaged.  Since you said it moved 5mm I would have to assume that is several revolutions of the motor so this is unlikely but possible.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The easiest way to find the problem would be to unhook/remove the threaded rod and see if you can move the carriage up and down the rods by hand, if so you just narrowed the problem down significantly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="233" LastActivityDate="2016-03-11T19:53:57.090" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="731" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="729" CreationDate="2016-03-11T20:02:00.360" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;X stage binding like this is almost always caused by parallelism issues with the rods and/or screw. The two-rod-plus-screw arrangement is quite over-constrained and thus requires good alignment to move smoothly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some basic troubleshooting steps:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Make sure the screw is not constrained at both ends. It is very difficult to manufacture a screw that is perfectly straight and then mount it so precisely that it can rotate with zero runout. Screws in light-duty linear motion applications should be allowed to &quot;wobble&quot; freely so any bend or runout doesn't apply side-load forces to the Z stage. This can be accomplished by putting a misalignment-tolerant coupler (like an Oldham coupler) on the driven end, and/or leaving the non-driven end free without any support bearing. A motor mount with a small amount of compliance (like a rubber stepper damper) can help when the screw is captive to the motor. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lubricate the screw and bearings and make sure everything is clean and in good condition. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Allow the Z carriage to self-align the rods and screw. The proper technique for this will depend on the Z stage, but the basic idea is to loosen the rod and screw mounts on either end, run the Z carriage back and forth a few times to push the rods into position, and then only re-tighten the top and bottom hardware when the carriage is at that end. It may also be necessary to loosen the screw nut and bearings on the carriage to get everything aligned properly and smooth-running, but that does not enforce parallelism like loosening the rod and screw mounts, so is really a secondary step. It may be necessary to leave some &quot;float&quot; in one rod or the bearings on one rod (with gravity preloading out any resultant slop) if the hardware has major alignment issues. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If the stage still binds after doing the above, it may be necessary to check if the linear hardware is bent (such as by rolling rods on a flat table) or use a file or Dremel to loosen up the mounts or whatever feature is causing the misalignment. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="298" LastActivityDate="2016-03-11T20:02:00.360" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="732" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="734" CreationDate="2016-03-12T00:17:11.157" Score="10" ViewCount="21411" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some RepRap models use only a single motor for the Z axis, others use two.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, there is the &lt;a href=&quot;http://reprap.org/wiki/3drag&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;3drag&lt;/a&gt; that has only one motor and a smooth rod on the other side. There are modifications that add a threaded rod on the other side that is connected to the motor axis with a belt - which seems to be a really good solution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other printers, like the &lt;a href=&quot;http://reprap.org/wiki/Prusa_i3&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Prusa i3&lt;/a&gt; or the Mendel90 have two Z motors. And after playing around with a two motor model, I find it pretty annoying when they get out of sync and I need to calibrate the axis and the print bed again. So two motors seem more like an disadvantage to me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could someone please shed some light on why most RepRaps have two Z motors (nowadays)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="950" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-07-01T12:40:30.860" LastActivityDate="2019-07-01T12:40:30.860" Title="What's the advantage of two z motors?" Tags="|z-axis|reprap|motor|knowledgebase|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="733" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="732" CreationDate="2016-03-12T02:33:46.783" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The general concept is to provide additional stability during the print. In the case of the 3drag machine you mentioned, you could run the risk of the -X- axis sagging due to the weight of the print head and/or additional wear on the rod or bearings on the one side (smooth side) as a result of the off balance weight. However, you may find &quot;hacks&quot; like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:538770&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; can potentially help reduce the affects by providing a bit more stability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having two -Z- axis motors with the threaded rods can help ensure stability of the -X- axis during print and can, overall, reduce wear on the mechanical components.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="98" LastActivityDate="2016-03-12T02:33:46.783" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="734" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="732" CreationDate="2016-03-12T03:38:48.547" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are three main options here for Mendel style ZX gantries:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;One Z screw and motor, which is similar to a cantilevered design but somewhat more stable because of the opposite smooth rod&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Two Z screws and two motors&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Two Z screws and one motor, with belt synchronization of the two sides&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Of all of these, running two screws off one motor is clearly superior in reliability and user-friendliness.&lt;/strong&gt; There is no risk of the two sides of the Z stage going out of sync. One motor running at higher current will generally out-perform two motors splitting one driver's current via parallel wiring, because one motor with twice the torque can push much harder when one side of the gantry binds up or hits a rough spot. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only real downside to the single motor, double screw approach is that it requires more engineering and parts. A closed-loop timing belt must be run between the two screws, with associated pulleys, tensioner, and support bearings. In comparison, using a separate motor for each screw is very simple. It adds a stepper and a shaft coupler, but saves a lot of vitamins and design complexity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Two-motor, two-screw solutions are lower-cost and simpler to design. That's why they're used. End of story.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One-motor, one-screw Mendel style printers are quite rare. The passive side of the Z mechanism does add a little bit of stability to the X stage, but not a lot. It's possible to rack the X stage out of square with the bed and bind up the gantry. In order to work at all, they require a very wide/tall bearing footprint on the driven side to resist torque exerted on the driven side by the weight of the X stage and extruder carriage. So it's true that they don't have synchronization issues, but additional design challenges and undesirable flexure modes are introduced. It's much more common for one-screw designs to simply cantilever out the X stage, like a SmartRap or Printrbot Simple. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="298" LastActivityDate="2016-03-12T03:38:48.547" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="735" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="732" CreationDate="2016-03-12T05:20:13.953" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;First up: I'm no expert. All of the below is guesswork.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think that the main reason is that it makes for a simpler design. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you hold the X-Axis only on one side, you have to keep it level through rigidity. (Especially if you have the extruder motor on that axis.) If you try to control the sagging, you have a problem because the torque changes depending on the position of the extruder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For stepper motors to go out of sync, one has to miss steps. Regardless on whether you have one or two or seventeen motors, if you are missing steps, you need to debug it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I got lots of missed steps in both X and Y, and I tried everything. Until I found out that I was actually missing steps in Z, and the nozzle was hitting the build.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="953" LastActivityDate="2016-03-12T05:20:13.953" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="736" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="738" CreationDate="2016-03-12T06:50:45.473" Score="17" ViewCount="9004" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to make some parts that will fit together. Specifically, I'm making an array of holders for small glass vials, which will stack together vertically to make a kind of extensible spice rack, for a scientific application.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, I could just give each module a flat top and bottom surface and glue them together. However, it would be more convenient (and more fun) to make some kind of connector, so that I can just push the parts together and pull them apart when needed. The connection will need to be relatively sturdy, and they'll need to sit flush against each other with no flexing where they join. I am a novice at 3D printing, so I'm looking for tips on how to design interlocking components, both in general and for this particular case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These parts will be printed in ABS using the Zortrax M200, and I'm designing them using OpenSCAD. They will almost certainly be printed lying on their side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One option is that there are several parametric Lego brick clones available, which I could easily incorporate into my OpenSCAD project. My only worries are that this might be overcomplicating the problem, and that printing Lego type parts on their side will result in having to scrape a lot of support material out of the hollow parts. (Though on the plus side, the lego compatibility might actually be useful, in terms of not having to manufacture additional supporting material.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any tips would be welcome on how to design and print parts that can be pushed together. I am sure I can work it out myself in time, but any knowledge that will save me a design iteration or two would be very greatly appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="612" LastActivityDate="2016-03-12T22:16:29.983" Title="Tips for making parts that push/snap together" Tags="|3d-design|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="737" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="757" CreationDate="2016-03-12T09:09:54.953" Score="2" ViewCount="3148" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to print a model without supports on the Zortrax M200. To do this it is mandatory to use the proprietory Z-Suite slicer. I am certain that at some point I found an option to turn off support struts (I specifically remember the text &quot;(not recommended)&quot; appearing in the UI somewhere), but it seems not to be there now. Is my memory playing tricks on me, or is there a way to enable a &quot;no supports&quot; option in Z-Suite?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="612" LastActivityDate="2017-05-29T12:54:19.300" Title="How to turn off supports in Z-Suite (Zortrax slicing software)" Tags="|software|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="738" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="736" CreationDate="2016-03-12T22:16:29.983" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are many different ways too approach this and the question may be too broad, but here's a stab at it...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are a few different ways that I've made parts that connect in the past:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:642026&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Example 1&lt;/a&gt;: Utilize the elasticity of the plastic by creating a semi circle to fit around another object. When fitting the part to the other object, the &quot;wings&quot; will flex out and relax around the back end of the object.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:993473&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Example 2&lt;/a&gt;: T-Slot style designs are a nice choice for semi-permanent or interchangeable parts. The key here is just using trapezoids and make sure the &quot;female&quot; end is slightly larger and/or tapered to make it easier to insert the slides.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:425979&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Example 3&lt;/a&gt;: Create snaps. This can be a bit more difficult, but can provide a more professional look to your design. It's best to start off by designing on L-Shaped slot on the parent part and a smaller L-Shaped extrusion on the child part. Then you can add a taper to the bottom area of the &quot;L&quot; to make it easier to insert into the slot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:115640&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Example 4&lt;/a&gt;: Creating plugs are similar to snaps, they're just circular. Try starting off with a cylinder and joining either a sphere or a slightly larger diameter and tapered cylinder on top. Then you should be able to snap the assembly into a hole that is slightly smaller than the &quot;top&quot; of the plug.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's important to weigh the usefulness of some design choices against the purpose of your part. For me, if I'm designing something for the shop or something that I think I'm going to be swapping out often, I'll use the T-Slot idea. Other things that &quot;looking pretty&quot; is more important, I'll try to hide the connections by designing a type of snap that can go into the walls of the part.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The T-Slot designs seem to print quite easily with no need for supports (depending on how gradual the angles of your trapezoid are) and provides a lot of structural strength.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Printing snaps has been difficult for me in the past and its best not to try to unsnap the part too much as you run the risk of shearing the snap upon removal. Printing such a small feature means that it is usually not marginally strong. However, including multiple snaps in an area and designing them with tight clearances can provide a very neat/clean connection that is appealing for consumer products (for example, phone cases).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="98" LastActivityDate="2016-03-12T22:16:29.983" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="739" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-13T14:35:19.407" Score="3" ViewCount="193" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am thinking about building my own DLP 3D printer. I want to know which uv curing resin I should use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, I came across a continuous 3D printing technology where oxygen permeable glass was used to stop the photopolymer toching the glass from hardening so the cured photopolymer wont stick to the glass. What resin additives are used to achive this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="962" LastActivityDate="2016-03-13T17:58:17.533" Title="Which photopolymer for printing?" Tags="|filament|filament-quality|dlp|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="740" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="742" CreationDate="2016-03-13T17:15:35.327" Score="16" ViewCount="614" Body="&lt;p&gt;What software is best for the basest of n00bs when it comes to 3D parts creation?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a heavy math background and know how to create explicit functions of volume, surface area, center of mass, etc. Ideally, I'd like a program that uses those strengths but I realize that most n00bs have a crippling math phobia so I'm not holding my breath.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried freeCAD once and made some headway but the next time I turned my computer on, it refused to open. It was just a weakling netbook that I don't even have in my possession anymore but the computer I'm currently using is rather slow and doesn't seem to have much memory left either, so I still need something lightweight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;tl;dr: Seeking a free, lightweight program to create .stl files that is good for n00bs that are &lt;strong&gt;not&lt;/strong&gt; afraid of math.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="965" LastActivityDate="2020-01-15T06:05:42.013" Title="Good (preferably free) Beginner Software for Part Creation?" Tags="|software|print-preparation|" AnswerCount="8" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="741" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="739" CreationDate="2016-03-13T17:58:17.533" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think you will find that it will be necessary for you to tune your own printer to a specific resin. Even as important, you would expect to have different parameters for different colors of resin, as each will absorb the UV to a different degree.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You haven't provided parameters in your request for which resin to use. You will consider availability and cost of the material you select, as well as the UV light frequency for which a particular product is specified. Temperature range of use is another critical detail.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll want to avoid resins for which the manufacturer does not provide specifications of that sort. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you pursue this route, you'll find and learn quite a bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regarding the resin additives for non-hardening: I have not seen such a product and I would not be surprised to learn that it is a proprietary substance and as such, a company secret.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a recent development of a similar note, a positive one, in my opinion. There is a silicone compound that forum posts have indicated allow the resin to release with minimal or no difficulty and the clarity lasts weeks of use. Current use of Sylgard or the equivalent means frequent re-builds of the vat due to cloudiness of the silicone or tearing of the surface due to excessive stickiness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.aldaxstore.com.au/p/1187443/breakable-glass-silicone-1kg.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Breakable Glass Silicone&lt;/a&gt; has developed quite a following on the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.b9c.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=8&amp;amp;t=2637&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;B9Creator forums&lt;/a&gt; for solving (or substantially reducing) those two factors. That alone justifies the immense expense of shipping from Australia, in my opinion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The easy release of the layers of the model from the surface would mean far more reliability in printing. You should/could consider this product for your project as it removes the requirement for questionable additives.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastActivityDate="2016-03-13T17:58:17.533" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="742" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="740" CreationDate="2016-03-13T18:07:37.780" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't have a heavy math background, but enjoy using such skills when applicable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you've not yet explored &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.openscad.org/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;OpenSCAD&lt;/a&gt;, you may find that it meets your qualifications. It's more or less a scripting/descriptive language &quot;compiler&quot; that takes ordinary text and converts it to your model design. I use quotes, because I'm not skilled enough to qualify it as a true compiler, although it works in a similar manner and may indeed be a compiler.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It meets another qualification of yours in that it's free and there's quite a supportive mailing list/forum for any questions or difficulties that arise. If you look on Thingiverse using OpenSCAD as a search term, you'll find others' code available for examination and integration into your own models.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the folks who are not so much into the math and text and logic, there's a GUI of sorts for OpenSCAD called &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.blockscad3d.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;BlocksCAD&lt;/a&gt; that allows drag and drop of various modules in a manner akin to Scratch programming. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd been using OpenSCAD long enough that I found BlocksCAD to overly complicate the creation of models by obscuring details. It may be better suited for younger model makers in that respect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Syntax and punctuation errors would be eliminated with BlocksCAD, while it's far too easy to create such errors in the editor for OpenSCAD. One gets used to it and error count quickly is reduced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastEditorUserId="2463" LastEditDate="2019-04-26T17:09:33.670" LastActivityDate="2019-04-26T17:09:33.670" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="743" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="758" CreationDate="2016-03-13T18:11:03.847" Score="4" ViewCount="379" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm building a Kossel Mini, and I'm stuck on the extruder motor holder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My Kossel came without instructions, I was given a set of instructions by a friend (the &quot;Kossel Build Guide&quot; by Blomker industries). I also found some instructions on the net. However, my components are different from  those in the build guides.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The question is how these components fit together.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm pretty certain the stepper motor should be connected to the big black components (labeled (1) and (4) in the picture). The 4 holes in these components correspond to openings in the stepper motor; and the stepper motors for the vertical carriages, were connected in a similar way to their respective holders.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The round thing, second from the left on the bottom, (labeled (2) in the picture) presumably goes on the axis of the stepper motor. Once again, a similar procedure was needed for the motors that will move the vertical carriages.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The screws on the right, labeled (3), are 1&amp;nbsp;cm long and 3&amp;nbsp;mm wide.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other screws are 2&amp;nbsp;cm long and 3&amp;nbsp;mm wide.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The stepper motor is a Wantai Stepper Motor Model 42BYGHW811 .&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have e-mailed the company where I bought my kit and am awaiting their answer. Meanwhile I'm hoping to get some advice here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Apparently the usual stepper motor for a Kossel Mini is Nema 17. Searching  on &quot;42BYGHW811&quot; I mostly find datasheets. Using &quot;Nema 17 mount&quot; or &quot;Nema 17 mounting screws&quot; as search terms, I find a lot of images with a component like (1). But nothing on how this and the other components should be put together for the motor holder for an extruder for the Kossel Mini.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/l98L8.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Parts of the extruder&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/l98L8.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Parts of the extruder&quot; title=&quot;Parts of the extruder&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="65" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2019-05-15T07:51:30.383" LastActivityDate="2019-05-15T09:22:11.123" Title="How to build the extruder motor holder for the Kossel Mini" Tags="|extruder|motor|kossel|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="744" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-14T00:06:06.590" Score="6" ViewCount="226" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't know whether this belongs here (where most of the questions appear to be about hardware) or on Math or on Blender (though I've never used Blender).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All of the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.shapeways.com/shops/bendwavy&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;designs that I've published so far&lt;/a&gt; consist of grids of bent ‘rods’, and in most of them the spacing of vertices depends on the rod's local curvature; that's easy enough.  But I think some of these figures would look better as continuous surfaces, and it's not obvious to me how to arrange the vertices efficiently — that is, to triangulate the surface just finely enough that it's accurate to within the printer's resolution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So: given a surface defined by well-behaved functions &lt;em&gt;x(u,v), y(u,v), z(u,v)&lt;/em&gt;, is there a standard way to choose vertices in &lt;em&gt;u,v&lt;/em&gt; space so that the length of each edge is roughly proportional to the radius of curvature in its direction?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="970" LastEditorUserId="970" LastEditDate="2016-03-17T02:23:24.843" LastActivityDate="2016-03-20T15:38:43.993" Title="Triangulation adapted to curvature" Tags="|3d-design|resolution|surface|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="746" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-14T18:06:59.337" Score="2" ViewCount="506" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have some design diagrams only on paper. Scanning them to bitmaps is easy, but I've had no luck getting useful vectors out of them. I've tried vectorizers in programs like gimp, and a few online services. Generally, I end up with enormous numbers of spurious vectors (from dust, dotted lines, text on the  diagram, slightly variations in scanning contrast, etc).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What tools and/or techniques can I use to get a more useful vector result, that I can then modify in a normal CAD tool without spending absurd amounts of time cleaning it all up first?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastActivityDate="2023-09-27T09:34:24.443" Title="Scan to vector?" Tags="|scanning|cad|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="747" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="740" CreationDate="2016-03-14T18:24:56.137" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;OpenSCAD sounds like the best fit for the original poster given his math background but I think SketchUp is probably the easiest software for most beginners to use for basic part creation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are two (or three) plugins I would recommend for anyone looking to use it to produce STL&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://extensions.sketchup.com/en/content/sketchup-stl&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://extensions.sketchup.com/en/content/sketchup-stl&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://extensions.sketchup.com/en/content/solid-inspector&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://extensions.sketchup.com/en/content/solid-inspector&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://extensions.sketchup.com/en/content/solid-inspector%C2%B2&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://extensions.sketchup.com/en/content/solid-inspector%C2%B2&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first one allows export to STL&#xA;The second and third check models to ensure they're solid. This is important for 3D printing as slicers have issues when models have holes in them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One more tool I would recommend to the beginner is&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.netfabb.com/basic.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.netfabb.com/basic.php&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It also checks over STL files to ensure there won't be any problems slicing them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="66" LastActivityDate="2016-03-14T18:24:56.137" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="748" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="746" CreationDate="2016-03-14T18:31:54.527" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is the capable but somewhat expensive &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.scan2cad.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot; title=&quot;Scan2CAD&quot;&gt;Scan2CAD&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Otherwise, if you're happy with outlines and not centre lines, scan b&amp;amp;w, aggressively clean up macules, mask off text, and then vectorize in potrace, autotrace, etc. Alternatively, load the bitmap at the correct resolution into a drawing package as a raster layer and draw the lines/objects you want over it. This avoids the horrors of dotted lines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both ways are quite a bit of work, sadly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="983" LastActivityDate="2016-03-14T18:31:54.527" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="749" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="709" CreationDate="2016-03-14T18:41:56.973" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;When exporting from SketchUp you have options for what units you want to export the STL as. Pronterface and Slic3r use millimetres so for these you should export as millimetres.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can run into issues when designing a part in inches and then pulling it into printer software which might be expecting millimetres. In this case you may have to scale the part by 25.4 in all three axes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As an example, if you have a 1&quot; test cube and you export it as mm the STL will have six faces that look like this&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;facet normal -1.0 0.0 0.0&#xA;  outer loop&#xA;    vertex 0.0 25.4 25.4&#xA;    vertex 0.0 0.0 0.0&#xA;    vertex 0.0 0.0 25.4&#xA;  endloop&#xA;endfacet&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can see there are no units anywhere. If you import this into a program that is expecting inches you will get a test cube that is 25.4 inches cubed. Scaling by 25.4 can fix this OR you can just tell SketchUp to export as inches.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="66" LastActivityDate="2016-03-14T18:41:56.973" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="750" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19" CreationDate="2016-03-14T19:30:46.380" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I usually use a chisel or a flat-head screwdriver to easily remove the bottom plate that the printer auto-generates. I would also suggest using something like wire cutters or some mini pliers to pull them off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="985" LastActivityDate="2016-03-14T19:30:46.380" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="751" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="746" CreationDate="2016-03-14T20:09:05.710" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would recommend using something like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.getpaint.net/index.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Paint.NET&lt;/a&gt; to &quot;fix&quot; the images before attempting to convert them to CAD.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To my knowledge, most of the Image-to-CAD applications are going to use the grayscale intensity of each pixel to get the Z-axis value. So, you can help this process by pre-filtering the image into grayscale and playing with the contrast until you get enough distinction between the features you want to stand out in your CAD model or print. Here's a quick example using a sample image:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Poor Contrast&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JuyOg.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JuyOg.png&quot; alt=&quot;Poor Contrast&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Better Contrast&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yEjjk.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yEjjk.png&quot; alt=&quot;Better Contrast&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whichever program you use will generally have an easier time detecting the edges of the flower pedals in the second image the further towards the center it goes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;GIMP has &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.gimp.org/tutorials/Color2BW/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;greyscale&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.gimp.org/tutorials/ContrastMask/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;contrast&lt;/a&gt; tools as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="98" LastActivityDate="2016-03-14T20:09:05.710" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="752" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="753" CreationDate="2016-03-14T21:48:18.690" Score="8" ViewCount="1655" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm building a 3D printer and I've been looking around for materials suitable to make the frame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have occasional access to a laser cutter which I could use to manufacture a ply box-type (UltiMaker) enclosure, but I like the ease of adjustment provided by the T-slot beam kits.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't have any metal-cutting machine tools. Can aluminium beam be cut by hand with a hacksaw to a good degree of accuracy? How does one finish the cut end?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="961" LastActivityDate="2016-05-19T23:37:43.733" Title="How to cut OpenBeam/MakerBeam?" Tags="|desktop-printer|printer-building|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="753" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="752" CreationDate="2016-03-14T22:37:06.090" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Aluminum of almost every grade is very easy to cut with a hacksaw. I would suggest to mark clearly the cut line and to wrap masking tape at the edge of the cut. Consider to allow for about 2-3 millimeters (1/16&quot;) extra material for final finishing. Cut across the line, rotate the part ninety degrees and cut again. Once you have the guide cuts in place, you should be able to manage a square cut by following those guides&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will want to have a clamping mechanism available, such as a vise or workbench type device. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After the cut is done, use a sharp file to make final adjustments to the length and appearance. Push the file, do not drag it backwards. Push forward, lift away from the work piece as you return, then push again. Pick up a file card, which is a fine metal-tooth brush used to clear the teeth of the file.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is very easy to remove material with a hand file, perhaps three or four strokes to remove 1/16&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your accuracy will depend on the measurement of the lines you create and how carefully you file to the edge of those lines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastActivityDate="2016-03-14T22:37:06.090" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="754" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-14T22:55:19.037" Score="12" ViewCount="2229" Body="&lt;p&gt;Slic3r comes with a handful of infill patterns/algorithms, including Rectilinear, Hexagon, 3D Hexagon, Concentric, and Hilbert Curve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any patterns/algorithms already made and available that I can add to Slic3r? If so, how can I add them in?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="131" LastActivityDate="2020-10-09T11:09:41.440" Title="Slic3r - Can I add new infill patterns?" Tags="|slic3r|infill|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="755" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="754" CreationDate="2016-03-15T00:27:42.303" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;Although the core of Slic3r is written in C++ a lot of other components such as infill generation are written in Perl. Since Slic3r is open source there is nothing stopping you from writing your own infill module in Perl and recompiling your own version of Slic3r.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your considering doing this you can find the existing infill code in the Github repository at&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/alexrj/Slic3r/tree/master/lib/Slic3r/Fill&quot;&gt;https://github.com/alexrj/Slic3r/tree/master/lib/Slic3r/Fill&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Instructions on how to run from source can be found at&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://slic3r.org/download&quot;&gt;http://slic3r.org/download&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a commit where a new infill pattern is added. This should show you all the parts of the codebase that must be modified to add a new infill model (some trivial C++ modifications appear to be necessary in addition to the Perl code)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/alexrj/Slic3r/commit/2811af349ae17230a525ddcf819b1ddffaa250c9&quot;&gt;https://github.com/alexrj/Slic3r/commit/2811af349ae17230a525ddcf819b1ddffaa250c9&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="66" LastActivityDate="2016-03-15T00:27:42.303" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="756" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="752" CreationDate="2016-03-15T03:05:32.247" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;As an alternative solution, Misumi sells extrusions precision-cut to length for a very reasonable price. You'll get better quality ends and a more precisely square frame from Misumi than if you try to cut them yourself. The HFS-5 series of 2020 is perfect for 3D printers. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="298" LastActivityDate="2016-03-15T03:05:32.247" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="757" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="737" CreationDate="2016-03-15T09:19:42.397" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've found the answer for myself by playing around a bit more. It seems that in selecting the &quot;support angle&quot;, a higher angle means &lt;em&gt;more&lt;/em&gt; supports. This was confusing me, because I had assumed &quot;support angle&quot; meant the maximum angle of overhang before a support would be generated. I guess it does actually mean that, but it counts 90º rather than 0º as vertical. In any case, supports are turned off simply by changing it to 0, in which case the text &quot;not recommended&quot; does indeed appear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="612" LastActivityDate="2016-03-15T09:19:42.397" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="758" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="743" CreationDate="2016-03-15T10:13:57.140" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Have a look at the image provided in this seller's part description. it probably says more than my words could (which would also only rely on images - your parts just looked like I saw them somewhere before). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://de.aliexpress.com/item/3D-printer-parts-right-hand-bowden-Extruder-kit-set-no-motor-compact-extruder-aluminum-alloy-for/32319995802.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;3D printer parts right hand Bowden Extruder kit set no motor compact extruder aluminum alloy for&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fsNaL.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Right hand Bowden Extruder kit&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fsNaL.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Right hand Bowden Extruder kit&quot; title=&quot;Right hand Bowden Extruder kit&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="168" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-08-13T15:33:24.753" LastActivityDate="2018-08-13T15:33:24.753" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="759" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="765" CreationDate="2016-03-15T10:38:16.180" Score="5" ViewCount="97" Body="&lt;p&gt;I ordered 10m of GT2 timing belt for a printer I want to build, however, the chemical smell from the belt is completely unbearable, in the sense of it gives me the feeling it is destroying something in my nose (and my nose isn't even particularly good). I tried to leave the belt outside in my garage for about three weeks now, but the smell has gone only so much. I naively assume it is the chemical to make the belt soft and bendable, would that even be a health risk having the belt around me for more extended intervals of time? Can I make the smell go away, and what would be the best way to do so?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="168" LastActivityDate="2016-03-15T18:44:49.487" Title="Getting rid of hardware parts smell (GT2 timing belt)" Tags="|hardware|belt|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="760" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-15T13:32:30.803" Score="3" ViewCount="555" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a project in the 3D printing. the aim of the project is to realize the control of the 3D printing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;the type of the printer is a printer with cables.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;the problem seems to have some development both in mechanical and robotics engineering. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;first of all, as our tutor said, we should find the dynamical and the geometrical equations and from those equations, we can find the algorithm to control the system of the 3 D printing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Well, my question is particularly about the dynamical equations in 2D as you can see in the picture above.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;the idea  is to find equations of : &#xA;- L1 and L2 in terms of xa and ya : which I already found as you can see in the picture&#xA;- xa and ya and teta in terms of L1 and L2: which I cannot find ! I would lilke you to help in this point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;thank you in advance&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/P3kiH.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/P3kiH.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And here, I add the dynamic equations and I would like you to check if it is ok &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NkEU3.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NkEU3.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="993" LastEditorUserId="993" LastEditDate="2016-03-21T09:54:02.793" LastActivityDate="2023-08-28T15:00:32.017" Title="Analytic equations to make algorithm of 3D printer" Tags="|printer-building|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="761" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="760" CreationDate="2016-03-15T16:01:30.640" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;As shown, the mechanics are under-constrained. You can't solve for theta because you have three degrees of freedom (X, Y, theta) and only two constraints (L1, L2). Gravity &lt;em&gt;will&lt;/em&gt; tend to bias theta in a particular orientation, but the geometrical stiffness of this arrangement will be so low that it will not be possible to do 3D printing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To calculate the free-hanging orientation of theta, you will need to know the center of gravity of the end-effector, and solve a system of equations to find the angles and tensions for each cable that produce force vectors which sum to equilibrium with the gravity force vector through the COG. Unfortunately, the tensions will be a function of the angles, so it's not trivial to solve. As a hint, the virtual intersection of the two cables will be coincident with or directly above the COG in all equilibrium positions, and the horizontal components of the tensions in the two cables will be equal. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="298" LastActivityDate="2016-03-15T16:01:30.640" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="762" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="763" CreationDate="2016-03-15T17:09:47.277" Score="6" ViewCount="1449" Body="&lt;p&gt;PLA is flammable, but a good case can protect the main board from dirt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it worthwhile to protect a circuit board with a 3d printed case?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="995" LastEditorUserId="4922" LastEditDate="2020-07-21T19:25:58.150" LastActivityDate="2020-07-21T19:25:58.150" Title="It is worthwhile to protect electronics with a 3D printed PLA case?" Tags="|electronics|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="763" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="762" CreationDate="2016-03-15T17:47:34.770" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;It depends.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Protecting your electronics from being touched by random bits of conductive material which would short and fry them is always a good idea.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it's something that will be visible, then a pleasant printed casing might go well. You might just as well use any other casing though, there's no requirement it be 3D printed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a very small circuitboard (an inch or less) heatshrink tubing might be a better form of protection. Or just insulating tape.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you never intend to access the circuitry again and heat dissipation isn't a big issue, then just putting the whole lot in potting compound may work best for you - complete waterproofing and environmental protection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or you could just tape a bit of plastic from a 2l coke bottle over it, and get 99% of the protection you'll ever need, and still keep the circuit visible and accessible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ultimately, it boils down to: Do you want it to be covered? If so, by what? If you would prefer a 3D printed case, then do you want it enough that it is worth the time and effort to you?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="996" LastActivityDate="2016-03-15T17:47:34.770" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="764" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="770" CreationDate="2016-03-15T18:21:53.590" Score="4" ViewCount="227" Body="&lt;p&gt;The idea is so you only need two long wires going from the power supply to the electronics boards. I'm sure I saw this done in a tutorial somewhere, but I can't for the life of me find the source. Also I just bought a kit and the build manual says to use four wires, but only two wires come with the kit, so I recalled that bit of advice in the tutorial and thought hmm either they shorted me those wires, or they just expect me to make do with two. Perhaps the jumping method is common practice? But then why have a plug on the ramps board with four inputs? Why not just two inputs and split it internally if need be?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="414" LastActivityDate="2016-03-16T09:43:46.863" Title="When building the ramps 1.4 is it safe to use small wires to jump the 5A, 12V power input over to the 11 Amp input" Tags="|ramps-1.4|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="765" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="759" CreationDate="2016-03-15T18:44:49.487" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's a garbage-quality belt, and it will probably continue outgassing at a steadily-decreasing rate for a very long time. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The fact that it has a strong chemical smell is pretty good evidence that it would not comply with regulations in civilized countries (such as REACH). I would recommend returning it or throwing it away and buying from a more reputable vendor. A large fraction of all cheap 3d printer parts these days are ridiculously far out of compliance with US/EU regs and basic common sense for contamination. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're hell-bent on using a crappy knock-off belt to save a few bucks, you could put it under vacuum to try to suck out the residual chemical gas faster. Just apply the vacuum very slowly / in stages (say over 10 minutes) so you don't get decompression blisters in the rubber. You shouldn't need a hard vacuum, dropping to 0.5-1 psia or 0.05 bar absolute for a day or two &lt;em&gt;should&lt;/em&gt; help significantly. No guarantees though. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="298" LastActivityDate="2016-03-15T18:44:49.487" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="766" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-03-15T23:30:29.887" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;For questions regarding the act of an FDM/FFF drive gear grinding the filament.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="98" LastEditorUserId="98" LastEditDate="2016-03-18T12:54:16.687" LastActivityDate="2016-03-18T12:54:16.687" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="767" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-03-15T23:30:29.887" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2016-03-15T23:30:29.887" LastActivityDate="2016-03-15T23:30:29.887" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="768" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="780" CreationDate="2016-03-15T23:30:58.747" Score="7" ViewCount="758" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Backstory&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've had issues in the past with my drive gear &quot;eating&quot; my filament. It seemed that the filament quit extruding for one reason or another and the drive gear would slowly eat away at the side of the filament.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I eventually assumed it was the plastic filament guides causing unnecessary tension that the drive gear couldn't compete with, ultimately keeping the filament from moving forward. Thusly, allowing the drive gear to continue &quot;trying&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My solution was to hang my spools above the machine to avoid using the filament guides feeding from the back of the machine up through the top.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Question&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can the plastic filament guides really cause that much drag? What other variables can I expect to look out for?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Machine:&lt;/em&gt; &lt;strong&gt;MakerBot Replicator Dual (1st Generation)&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="98" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2018-08-18T09:41:02.867" LastActivityDate="2018-08-18T09:41:02.867" Title="Filament Guides Drag" Tags="|filament|makerbot|hardware|drive-gear|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="769" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="726" CreationDate="2016-03-16T04:25:19.277" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I understand you correctly, compared to a &lt;a href=&quot;http://reprap.org/wiki/Mendel&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Mendel RepRap&lt;/a&gt; you are using:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;M8 threaded rod (the same kind of rod used in the &lt;a href=&quot;http://reprap.org/wiki/Mendel_materials_procurement&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Mendel RepRap frame&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;roughly the same lengths of rod as in the Mendel, and&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;cross-braced with more diagonals than the Mendel design.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I expect less vibration and the same print quality as a Mendel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rather than put one block of wood at each corner with holes drilled at a bunch of weird skewed angles,&#xA;the &lt;a href=&quot;http://reprap.org/wiki/1X2&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;&quot;1X2 split vertex&quot;&lt;/a&gt; looks like it is a lot easier to construct.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've heard several people claim that lots of threaded rods and associated corner connectors can be replaced with a few big sheets of &lt;a href=&quot;http://reprap.org/wiki/Category:Wood&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;wood in a 3D printer&lt;/a&gt;.&#xA;See &lt;a href=&quot;http://reprap.org/wiki/Mendel90&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Mendel90&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://reprap.org/wiki/RP9&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;RP9&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://reprap.org/wiki/SGBot&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;SGBot&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://reprap.org/wiki/WolfStrap&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;WolfStrap&lt;/a&gt;, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looks like a very educational project. Good luck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="994" LastActivityDate="2016-03-16T04:25:19.277" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="770" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="764" CreationDate="2016-03-16T09:43:46.863" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I guess that the external split is at least partly done to force the user to utilize 4 wires. 16 Amps at 12 Volts is quite a bit of power and you don't want your wires or connectors to melt. If you use twice the wire cross section by using 4 instead of 2 wires, you also reduce the resistivity and hence heat created in the wire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Put it the other way around: Using 2 instead of 4 wires raises the risk of your setup to catch fire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Still, you can use that bridging technique, if you make sure that all your wire diameters are big enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would advise you, however, to cut the wires that come with your kit in half and use the connectors in the way they were meant to. For optical appeal and less cable clutter you can still put the wires into some braided sleeve for example.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="168" LastActivityDate="2016-03-16T09:43:46.863" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="771" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="779" CreationDate="2016-03-16T10:04:42.047" Score="33" ViewCount="8168" Body="&lt;p&gt;As my first project, I'm trying to design a holder for glass vials, for a scientific application. The photo below shows the latest design iteration, and also shows the problem with it:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7vqSam.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7vqSam.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;vial holder&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you can see, one of the clips that's meant to hold the vial in place has broken off. This happened after inserting the vial once or twice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think I understand the reason for this. It's because I'm printing in the orientation shown below, in order to avoid the need for supports. (This will be more important later, when I scale it up to an array of many holders.) This means that it's relying on the strength in the z dimension, which is much weaker than in the other two directions, because it relies on the cohesion between the layers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aOyctm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aOyctm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is whether I can do anything about this by changing the design of the clips, without abandoning my hope of support-free printing. I don't care at all what the design looks like, except that as much of the vial as possible needs to be visible from the front. I'm printing in ABS.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have tried varying the thickness of the clips. Thinner ones don't break as easily, but they are a bit floppy and aren't very good at keeping the vial vertical. The ones shown are the thickest I've tried - I'm afraid that if they're too thick they won't bend at all. (The vial is supposed to be inserted from the front rather than the top.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit&lt;/strong&gt; just as an update, here's what it looks like using John Biddle's suggestion, which works perfectly:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/w3qeG.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/w3qeG.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="612" LastEditorUserId="98" LastEditDate="2016-06-09T02:05:37.273" LastActivityDate="2016-06-09T02:05:37.273" Title="Designing clips that won't break" Tags="|3d-design|print-strength|" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="772" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="771" CreationDate="2016-03-16T10:17:16.050" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Considering that you wish to print the clip in the vertical orientation but without supports, I would suggest that you create a suitable taper of the clip from the bottom. The taper would provide necessary support-free support but may reduce the amount of bottle access one has to remove it from the clips.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As such, you could also reduce the amount of the straight vertical segment of the clip at the front, which would allow the support-free support to start at a higher level from the bottom.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the bottle bottom encirclement is raised, you'd receive additional retention. You could then reduce more the upper encirclement and taper for easier release.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I too prefer to design models that require no support, but have run into the same circumstance, where the weaker axis takes a disproportionate load.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastActivityDate="2016-03-16T10:17:16.050" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="773" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="771" CreationDate="2016-03-16T11:24:03.367" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Printing the model vertically should certainly be considered, as that will alleviate your issue by a whole lot. If altering the design by adding a &lt;em&gt;taper&lt;/em&gt; to your model isn't what you are looking for, placing a &lt;em&gt;manual, removable support structure&lt;/em&gt; at the outer edge og the overhang could also be an option. This way, you could print the overhang as a &lt;em&gt;bridge&lt;/em&gt;, making it much easier to print vertically.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, have you considered using another material than ABS? There are a large variety of filament types available that have better semi-flexible properties than ABS, without sacrificing overall strength. For instance, PETG and Taulman's Alloy 910 filaments are both very strong, and surprisingly flexible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="115" LastActivityDate="2016-03-16T11:24:03.367" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="774" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="762" CreationDate="2016-03-16T12:06:33.047" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;As pointed out by Ryan Carlyle, not all 3D printing filament is flammable (such as PET and PETG), and the question therefore rather becomes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Can 3D printing be used to make proper electronic cases?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And the short answer to that is &lt;strong&gt;yes&lt;/strong&gt;. 3D printing allows to make customized cases of all varieties. Also, since there is huge variety of materials available, you not only restricted to cases of plastic filaments - should this be of interest.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then again, it all depends on what you are protecting your electronics from. If you plan on submerging your electronics into water or throw them into a fire, 3D printing might not work for you at all. If dust protection is your only concern, however, 3D printed cases should do just fine in most cases.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="115" LastEditorUserId="115" LastEditDate="2016-03-17T15:07:03.140" LastActivityDate="2016-03-17T15:07:03.140" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="775" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="771" CreationDate="2016-03-16T12:58:27.640" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The Short&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Just print vertically&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Reduce the clip size to bring them closer to the centerline&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Try a vapor treatment or epoxy to increase strength&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The Long&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ultimately, printing the object vertically (so the clips are printed horizontally) would be the strongest solution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively, you could adjust your model to bring down the size of the clips to reduce the strain. Consider making more of a cup or cone on the bottom for the vial to slide into center. Then reduce the length of the clips to bring the closer to where the center of the vial will be. Make sure, however, that your clips still curve slightly around the center (and maybe a mm or two beyond). From a design point, the bottom clip is probably unnecessary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another option might also be to use a small vapor treatment on the ABS. Depending on how deep the alcohol penetrates, it could diminish some of the issues with the part cracking along the grain. This is just a fairly labor intensive process compared to some of the others posted here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Side note, those are great looking prints! I like how smooth ABS can look. &lt;s&gt;Its hard to tell, but it looks like your part has a bit of warping on the bottom. Definitely look into some of the warping questions here on Stack.&lt;/s&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="98" LastEditorUserId="98" LastEditDate="2016-03-17T14:07:49.493" LastActivityDate="2016-03-17T14:07:49.493" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="777" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="768" CreationDate="2016-03-16T16:07:15.950" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a few hundred printing hours on a Monoprice Dual Extrusion, which is essentially the same thing.  I've had a couple random issues that lead to filament stripping by the extruder motor:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Clogs (either a buildup of material over time, or from over-retraction)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Filament kinks around the spool holder&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Some other restriction of the spool's rotation&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suspected the guides early on, but the grips on the rotor are actually fairly strong and the guide tubes are smooth enough to not cause a problem by themselves; I'd recommend looking at the other ends of the assembly first, as they're more likely to cause a problem.  If you preheat the nozzle, open the tensioner on the extruder stepper, and can't push the filament into the nozzle with your fingers, the motor won't be able to do it either.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1012" LastActivityDate="2016-03-16T16:07:15.950" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="778" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="771" CreationDate="2016-03-16T16:32:40.183" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;I agree with the previous assessments -- printing vertically for that part of the clip will definitely alleviate the layer adhesion being your weak point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might also consider splitting that clip as a separate modular piece (which will clip/socket/bolt into the stand).  Depending on implementation, this would give you the ability to&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Print that part vertically without supports&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Swap the part if it breaks, without having to print the whole assembly again&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Preattach the clip to vials, which may be good or bad depending on your usage&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1012" LastActivityDate="2016-03-16T16:32:40.183" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="779" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="771" CreationDate="2016-03-16T19:12:24.773" Score="31" Body="&lt;p&gt;It looks like those clips are thin and need to bend pretty far to let the vial out. Try to make the clips thicker, but with a smaller clip to retain the vial so that it doesn't have to bend as much. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is what I'm thinking, in beautiful MS-PAINT form:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/evTyz.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/evTyz.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1021" LastActivityDate="2016-03-16T19:12:24.773" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="780" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="768" CreationDate="2016-03-16T20:23:51.700" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;For an easy test, try manually pulling the filament through the U-loop of guide tube. How hard is it to pull through? It should only take 1-2 lbs of tension at most. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then do a &quot;tug test&quot; on the extruder. Start it loading and grab the filament by hand to try to stop it from extruding. The Replicator 1/2/2x extruder style can typically pull ~8-10 lbs of tension and it should be fairly difficult to stop the filament. When you do stop the filament, you should hear clicking/thumping from the stepper stalling, NOT quiet grinding as the drive gear chews through the filament. If the grip slips rather than stalls, your extruder hardware needs to be tuned or replaced. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are three common causes of excessive feed tube drag:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use of polyethylene tubing instead of PTFE -- this makes a shockingly large difference in drag friction. You can use a heat gun or torch (outside!!) to tell the difference between PE and PTFE. PE will soften quickly and then melt fairly easily, whereas PTFE will simply go clear and eventually char without melting. Nylon is also sometimes used for feed tubes with acceptable results, but if you have any suspicion about the tube material, just buy new PTFE tubes from a reputable vendor like McMaster. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Too many loops/curves in the tube. Total drag friction is an exponential function of the total amount of curvature in the tube. You should have one good U-loop, no spirals or floppy zig-zags. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Excessive friction on the spool rotation. Any spool back-tension gets greatly magnified through the feed tube per the &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Capstan_equation&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;capstan equation&lt;/a&gt;. This can be caused by a bad spool holder, or if the filament is knotted on the spool due to letting the end of the spool loose during handling. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="298" LastActivityDate="2016-03-16T20:23:51.700" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="781" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="771" CreationDate="2016-03-16T23:47:59.303" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you don't want your clip to break, you'll have to engineer in some form of flexibility in a strong part of your design.  For example, right now it looks like the bases of the clips are sitting rather solidly on the underlying surface such that it can't move.  I'd suggest that instead it might be better to have two clips attach separately to the bottom using a &quot;post&quot;, and have each post attached to the solid part of the base with a piece of plastic whose horizontal cross-section is a somewhat-rounded accordion-style double zig-zag.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the top: &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cIUa8.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cIUa8.png&quot; alt=&quot;Top view&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having multiple &quot;pleats&quot; will mean that each degree that the clips flex outward will only require each pleat to flex a fraction of a degree.  You'd have to play around to find out what number of pleats would give a suitable degree of stiffness and flexibility, but if the printer renders the design by drawing the zig zags, stresses should be concentrated in the directions where the material is strongest.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1024" LastActivityDate="2016-03-16T23:47:59.303" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="783" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-17T22:10:00.853" Score="5" ViewCount="460" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to make custom insoles for my wife.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This company makes a flexible filament that will be soft to stand on:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://recreus.com/en/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://recreus.com/en/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do not currently own a printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I measure her feet and transfer the measurements to the printer?&#xA;(one of these comes to mind: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.eggheadtoys.com/pin-art/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.eggheadtoys.com/pin-art/&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I measure the inside of the shoe?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What kind of printer can print with the flexible filament?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1048" LastEditorUserId="1048" LastEditDate="2016-03-17T22:24:40.997" LastActivityDate="2018-10-03T21:11:45.773" Title="Printing insoles" Tags="|filament|desktop-printer|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="784" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="783" CreationDate="2016-03-18T00:51:57.530" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Many questions in one post, but I'll address only the first. Consider to use a shoe with a flat insole, perhaps even what is commonly called a flip-flop. If your objective is to perfectly match the curve of her foot bottom, this should work. Apply a layer of polymer modeling clay, plasticine or similar material. It should be warm enough to permit her foot/feet to settle in and push enough material away to remove any voids. If voids appear, one could then add a few blobs and repeat the pressure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously some will ooze from the sides, which will have to be trimmed away. Trim a sufficient amount to fit her regular shoes and you'll have a reasonable match of the necessary fit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The resulting shape can then be scanned with a 3d scanner and converted to a 3d model. Even if the clay is excessively thick, the typical 3d model editor can slice away the excess, although one would have to make an almost arbitrary judgement for the location of the slicing plane.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another option comes to mind. There are various silicone molding products. I've used one from makeyourownmolds.com that is of a consistency of frosting. When mixed together and applied, it makes a perfect duplicate of the item, in reverse. Another product sold at the local HobbyLobby is a similar molding compound that is more akin to the modeling clay.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both compounds will release easily from skin, are non-toxic and would provide a more durable model from which to scan. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think one difficulty you may have is how to determine the correct foot pressure and posture to achieve the desired results. The modeling clay would give you more support and probably be more accurate. If your objective is to provide the same support as a bare foot, the silicone molding method would be more accurate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you stretch the concept even further, once you have the silicone or clay mold, you would be able to use the pin-art concept. The idea of measuring each tiny pin is mind-boggling, though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastActivityDate="2016-03-18T00:51:57.530" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="785" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="783" CreationDate="2016-03-18T05:26:10.920" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In short, my opinion is that 3D printing is not the most ideal or cost effective means to accomplish your objective. I'm sure with just as much research, you can find an existing consumer product.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, to answer your question, you have a few options that come to mind:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Simply make a mould using supplies from your local craft store. Once a mould is made, look into a castable material that will be comfortable, though this may be difficult.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you're dedicated towards 3D printing the insole. Try getting hold of a local service that can use a 3D Laser Scanner to get a mesh model. The same service might even be able to create solid model of the desired insole if you have dimensions of the shoe you wish to use. Next, you'll need to contact another service to 3D print the insole (most likely in nylon or similar) or, if you have a 3D printer, print the insole yourself. If you are considering printing yourself, and have not before used a material like nylon, please review the material specifications. Some suppliers recommend the use of a heated build plate with these type of materials to ensure the material properties are retained during heating/cooling.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm suggesting Laser Scanning as it will be the most economical and flexible means of reverse engineering the dimensions you're requesting. Other options, such as a Coordinate Measuring Machine or X-Ray may would be quite uncomfortable and impractical.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ultimately, I would look into something like &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.drscholls.com/productsandbrands/customfitorthotics/?pse=google&amp;amp;matchtype=b&amp;amp;Keyword=%2Bdr%20%2Bscholl%27s%20%2Bmachine&amp;amp;network=g&amp;amp;placement&amp;amp;campaignid=194231145&amp;amp;adgroupid=9255309945#tablink_2&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; instead. I'm not endorsing any product or company, but something like this may be the best solution for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="98" LastActivityDate="2016-03-18T05:26:10.920" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="786" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-18T10:21:36.583" Score="3" ViewCount="499" Body="&lt;p&gt;For my Frankenstein's printer I am at a loss with the hotend mount. I cannot drill holes of 16 (upper diameter) and 12 mm (clamping diameter, 6mm high) which i would need to mount the E3D V6 clone I have.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I am looking for: a hotend mount plate that tightly fixes the hotend while having some holes for screws to mount it to the horizontally moving x-y drives. As I cannot print yet, it needs to be manufacturable at home. I thought of something like this:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:285405&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:285405&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I could get a piece of wood thin enough to fit the 6mm gap for the hotend, would not really be able to put any screws through it along the flat axis. also I would have to glue the layer with a 16mm hole on top. Not to say that I don't own a drillbit of 16mm diameter...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there some completely different ideas around which I didn't think of yet?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additional info: the x-y axes are made from a scanner bed and an underneath mounted dvd drive laser positioner. Ideally, I'd want to mount the hotend directly to the DVD drive but a) there is almost no space for that, and b) I'm pretty sure I will burn the DVD drive's motor somewhere along the way, so I don't want to put too much work in the individual DVD drive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="168" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2019-07-01T10:58:56.860" LastActivityDate="2019-07-01T10:58:56.860" Title="Easiest way to build a horizontal hotend mount at home, without printing" Tags="|diy-3d-printer|hotend|hardware|stability|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="787" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="783" CreationDate="2016-03-18T11:33:22.303" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here is a post that covers how to scan a foot and make a form fitting insole - &lt;a href=&quot;https://web.archive.org/web/20180429035945/http://www.gyrobot.co.uk/blog/my-adventures-with-3d-printed-insoles-part-4-4&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://web.archive.org/web/20180429035945/http://www.gyrobot.co.uk/blog/my-adventures-with-3d-printed-insoles-part-4-4&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are links to the rest of the blog - &lt;a href=&quot;https://web.archive.org/web/20180307181312/http://www.gyrobot.co.uk:80/blog/my-adventures-with-3d-printed-insoles-part-1-4&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Part 1 of 4&lt;/a&gt; - &lt;a href=&quot;https://web.archive.org/web/20180307181409/http://www.gyrobot.co.uk:80/blog/my-adventures-with-3d-printed-insoles-part-2-4&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Part 2 of 4&lt;/a&gt; - &lt;a href=&quot;https://web.archive.org/web/20180305020707/http://www.gyrobot.co.uk:80/blog/my-adventures-with-3d-printed-insoles-part-3-4&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Part 3 of 4&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any printer should be capable of the temperature required for flexible filament.  The main problem with flexible filament is the path between the drive gears and entrance to the hotend must be completely constrained or the filament will push out of any gap.  Ninjaflex is very flexible and absolutely will not work unless you constrain it right after the contact point with the drive gear.  Semiflex is another flexible filament but quite a bit stiffer than Ninjaflex, I've never used it but it should be a bit more forgiving on the path requirements.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know there are several other flexible filaments but I've never worked with them so I only mentioned Ninjaflex which I have used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The model used in the blog can be found here - &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:586514&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:586514&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="233" LastEditorUserId="233" LastEditDate="2018-10-02T12:25:47.850" LastActivityDate="2018-10-02T12:25:47.850" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="788" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="786" CreationDate="2016-03-18T12:17:53.483" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you do not have the tools to fabricate this component yourself, but have a 3D model available, I would suggest getting someone else to 3D print it for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are multiple options for getting your model printed, such as:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Friends&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your local makerspace, library or similar&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.3dhubs.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;3D Hubs&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.makexyz.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;MakeXYZ&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.shapeways.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Shapeways&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sculpteo.com/en/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Sculpteo&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;and so on..&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="115" LastActivityDate="2016-03-18T12:17:53.483" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="789" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-18T13:09:08.507" Score="7" ViewCount="490" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you already have a 3D printer, would you say that you have saved money on buying the printer, buying models and then printing the models, compared to buying something alike in retail?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would you say that saving money is an argument to buy a 3D printer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1057" LastActivityDate="2016-03-31T19:51:41.957" Title="Is 3D printing a good way to save money?" Tags="|3d-models|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="790" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="789" CreationDate="2016-03-18T13:45:48.687" Score="3" Body="&lt;h1&gt;Yes and No.&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are two sides of this, &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;yes&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; and &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;no&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;. Why I say &lt;em&gt;yes&lt;/em&gt; is because there are little things that the 3D Printer can come in use for, like creating charger holders or just little household objects. The &lt;em&gt;no&lt;/em&gt; side of this for me would be because of the cost of the filament in general and the maximum object size you can create with your 3D Printer. I know they have bigger ones out there, but you aren't going to make anything too big. Another reason it's a &lt;em&gt;no&lt;/em&gt; is because of duration of time. It may save you money, but your going to be spending a lot more time and possibly more money the bigger your objects get, which is the only reason I'm not trying to get one at the moment. I'm choosing to wait until technologies advance to get my personal one, where it doesn't take over an hour to print out a keychain tag.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;yes&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;, you probably could save money in the long run, depending on what you create with it based on size and how much filament you use, but I'm also going to say &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;no&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; because of the disadvantages the 3D Printer has. I personally would wait for technology to advance in the next 5-15 years before buying one that has a lot more power than these, as the one's currently in the market are expensive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT:&lt;/strong&gt; As I stated in my reasoning, I currently do not own a 3D Printer, but I do use one at my school for educational purposes and I do know the hassle on time and money for creating products that are relatively small in size.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="985" LastEditorUserId="985" LastEditDate="2016-03-29T18:07:48.353" LastActivityDate="2016-03-29T18:07:48.353" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="791" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="789" CreationDate="2016-03-18T17:32:18.073" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would say that the general answer to your specific question is no. If you want to justify buying a printer because of all the things you could print instead of buying that is not going to be easy. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If however you are a DIYer and you have some CAD skills, or are willing to learn some, then consider the 3D printer as another tool you can use. There are plenty of stories about people who fixed some very expensive thing instead of having to buy a whole new one for hundreds of $/£; so if you have a specific use in mind then it may be justifiable to you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have made and fixed stuff around the house, but it's often things you simply couldn't buy, or could have fixed some other way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is an ever growing library of models available out there, and many are free. I recently fixed the leg on my keyboard with a printed one which I found on thingiverse, took minutes to print and the keyboard is part of a wireless set which would cost £30 to replace, so that was great but you won't normally find exactly what you want like that at this time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And lastly it's not plug 'n Play yet, so you need to be a tinkerer at heart to use most printers out there right now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="864" LastActivityDate="2016-03-18T17:32:18.073" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="792" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="786" CreationDate="2016-03-18T19:51:02.687" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could cut a v-notch groove in a piece of plywood to hold one side of the groovemount neck, and then use a bolt through another piece of wood to push the neck into the V-notch. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are lots of options when building RepStraps and JunkStraps. Really depends on what sort of hardware and fabrication capabilities you have on hand. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="298" LastActivityDate="2016-03-18T19:51:02.687" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="793" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="789" CreationDate="2016-03-18T20:15:42.800" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You'll never net a profit 3D printing the equivalent of Dollar Store trinkets. Commercial-scale injection molding costs pennies per part, while 3D printing typically costs dollars per part. It's great every so often when you can replace an out-of-stock widget and rescue a major appliance from the trash heap, but those instances are pretty rare. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What 3D printing lets you do is make stuff that simply wouldn't exist otherwise. That could mean clever gadgets that can't be manufactured any other way, or niche items that don't have enough volume to be economical via traditional manufacturing and sales channels, or one-off prototypes or art projects. Those may be very high value items! But it's difficult to assign a dollar value to them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="298" LastActivityDate="2016-03-18T20:15:42.800" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="796" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="817" CreationDate="2016-03-19T16:25:56.870" Score="2" ViewCount="820" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am new to 3d printing and had bought my first 3d printer a couple of months ago. I have it all put together and the software uploaded to the Arduino. However, I need some help with configuration and calibration of the printer. I understand that there is a configuration file that can be changed and uploaded again the create those changes. I also have worked with Arduino before so I know the IDE. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I turn the printer on everything works, as far as I know. I did some tests to see if anything was wrong, but I couldn't find anything. However, when I hit &lt;em&gt;home&lt;/em&gt; for all of the x, y and z axis to go to their starting marks, it tries to go past the rails and comes apart. From what I understand this is a configuration issue. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried to contact HE3D about this, but received no answer, so you guys are my last hope. If you need any more information to help me, let me know and i'll try getting it to you asap. (I also have read the documentation on Repetier and the installation and configuration section but my brain for some reason is not clicking into gear.) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for the help in advanced!!! Here are the specs:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.3dprintersonlinestore.com/reprap-prusa-xi3&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://www.3dprintersonlinestore.com/reprap-prusa-xi3&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1075" LastEditorUserId="115" LastEditDate="2016-03-19T20:52:23.673" LastActivityDate="2017-10-18T03:14:36.237" Title="HE3D-XI3 3D printer Repetier software config help!" Tags="|ramps-1.4|software|prusa-i3|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="797" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="798" CreationDate="2016-03-20T00:06:31.977" Score="6" ViewCount="3173" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was watching a couple of videos about installing a Thermistor on the heat-bed and extruder of my Prusa i3; both videos mentioned that if I use either Sodium Silicate (Muffler &amp;amp; Tail Pipe Sealer) or Heat Resistant Silicone Glue to attach my Thermistors, I would be able to get a more accurate temperature reading.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a particular kind or specification that is best for use in their the Heatbed or the Extruder?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastActivityDate="2016-03-20T02:56:25.290" Title="What kind of silicone glue should I use to attach my thermsistors?" Tags="|extruder|heated-bed|prusa-i3|thermistor|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="798" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="797" CreationDate="2016-03-20T02:56:25.290" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The main requirement here is temperature resistance. A 3D printer extruder is very, very hot, and will easily exceed the ratings of many typical silicone glues in normal service or during a runaway event. (You should always plan for an eventual thermal runaway. They're alarmingly common with cheap kit printers.) Even high-temp glues will not survive the temperatures an extruder can reach at full power if the firmware locks up. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Muffler putty is popular for fixing thermistors because it's one of the few widely-available ways of attaching a thermistor that will easily withstand the heat. In fact, it will survive after the aluminum hot block melts. (Yes, that can happen.) But muffler putty is fairly brittle, and has a different coefficient of thermal expansion from aluminum, so there is some risk of the thermistor detaching over time. I really don't recommend puttying thermistors used in extruders -- many people do, but it's less robust and less secure for long-term use than the proper hardware fixing methods found in modern hot block designs like the &lt;a href=&quot;http://e3d-online.com/Spares/v6-Heater-Block-and-Fixings&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;E3Dv6&lt;/a&gt;. The temperature sensing is sufficiently fast and accurate simply by putting the thermistor into a pocket in the hot block, without any kind of potting around the glass bead. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;High-temp RTV glues are very suitable for heated build plates. Pretty much any RTV (such as from your local automotive repair store) is fine if you just want to attach a thermistor to a plate. However, silicone heaters will require silicone adhesives. I've had good success with &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mcmaster.com/#74515a32&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Dow Corning 736&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="298" LastActivityDate="2016-03-20T02:56:25.290" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="800" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="744" CreationDate="2016-03-20T15:38:43.993" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;For 3d printing this is not very relevant. The triangles only exist in the File read by the slicer. And there are file-formats that can describe rods without the need to use triangles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you create a model in a format that uses triangles than just use enough of them to get your model described fully. (millions of very small triangles) That is probably a waste on part where it has less details, but that just makes the file a bit bigger.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem of best print quality doesn't end there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The slicer looks at the triangfles and creates a 2d image of the intersection of the triangles with the layer hight. It then creates g_COde paths along the lines in this 2d image for every Layer. Using triangles to describe the model will only give small line segments for these 2d slices. Therefore the G-Code creates will only have straight line movements (G0, G1).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With a format that can describe curves, the slicer could end up with circles and arcs on the 2d slice and could then use G2 and G3 moves. And if the Firmware of your printer understands these commands you would get the best possible quality with rather small model files.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="204" LastActivityDate="2016-03-20T15:38:43.993" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="801" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="802" CreationDate="2016-03-20T18:22:24.270" Score="9" ViewCount="876" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been curious about the various UV/Laser printers in (or coming into) market that use liquid resin. I've seen the samples of the &lt;a href=&quot;https://fslaser.com/Products/View/1&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Pegasus Touch&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://formlabs.com/products/materials/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Form1&lt;/a&gt;, and the &lt;a href=&quot;http://carbon3d.com/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Carbon3D&lt;/a&gt; as examples. I like the specifications of the quality that machines can put out. However, in my experience with FDM printing, there almost always seems to be something not quite right about the print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, what are some major maintenance considerations for these types of 3D printing? Also, specifically, are supports and overhangs as much an issue in these types of printers as with FDM/FFF?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are some things I consider major maintenance considerations in FDM:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Extruder Clogging&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Build platform conditions (i.e. levelness, clean, type of tape, bubbles in tape)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Variances in material quality (i.e. diameter, purity, physical conditions)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mechanics of the machine (i.e. belts, rods, gear teeth, etc.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Build environment (i.e. ensuring steady temperature in the build environment, minimize draft)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sub&gt;I'm not necessarily looking for printer recommendations, more so technical insight on the technology.&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="98" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2021-01-22T19:46:10.873" LastActivityDate="2021-01-22T19:46:10.873" Title="Cons to UV printing" Tags="|resin|maintenance|dlp|uv-printer|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="802" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="801" CreationDate="2016-03-20T20:45:34.890" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Taken in order your questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maintenance for a resin printer means keeping the vat or tray clean, using appropriate methods to remove the unused resin (or leaving it in the vat per manufacturer's directions). Cleaning the tray should be done also per manufacturer's spec, although each printer's user forum may provide better or more effective options.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Pegasus Touch has a caution regarding dripping resin on the mirrors, so there's operational care considerations for these types of printers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a build platform for these printers. The flatness and level are as critical or more so for resin printers, as the resolution can be astonishingly high. If any portion of a print does not bond to the platform, that entire print will have a failed section, creating an entirely failed print. Gravity is not particularly helpful in that respect, at least with the Pegasus Touch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The release medium varies from device to device. The Pegasus Touch originally used PDMS (silicon release compound) and now uses what's called a SuperVat. The plastic material in the SuperVat is purported to provide better release and fewer failures, along with increased lifespan. PDMS becomes cloudy from repeated printing in the same location and can be torn away from the vat if the print does not properly release.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've become aware of a product from Australia that has had good reports from use in a B9 Creator resin printer. The report indicates that it releases the model quite easily and barely turns cloudy. I have an order pending for this material, as I am hopeful it will perform as described.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The mechanics are also varied. One expects a system to raise and lower the build platform and to direct the laser or illumination system (DLP), but generally, this type of printer is somewhat simpler mechanically.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because I live in a hot humid climate, my Pegasus Touch remains in the box, and my brain is about to explode with what I've learned of using it. Environmental conditions are likely to vary with different machines. I've seen references that 70 degrees F is too cold, others that say 70-75 degrees F is just fine, anything higher is too hot. Another user says that 65 degrees is good. The type of resin also becomes an important factor for environmental conditions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The laser will create heat in the resin, so I'm inclined to believe that cooler is better. Different colors require different durations of laser light, somewhat akin to various plastics having different temperatures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;supports and overhangs are important considerations in an SLA or DLP printer, just as they are in FDM.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Expect also that many of the resin printers require that the user purchase only the product provided by the manufacturer. This isn't necessarily a negative as most of the resin sources are priced similarly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I've missed any part of your question, let me know.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastActivityDate="2016-03-20T20:45:34.890" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="803" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-03-20T22:18:12.890" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;For questions regarding troubleshooting, specifications, and best-practices with the Arduino Mega 2650&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="98" LastEditorUserId="98" LastEditDate="2016-03-26T07:51:03.770" LastActivityDate="2016-03-26T07:51:03.770" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="804" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-03-20T22:18:12.890" Score="0" Body="Questions about the Arduino Mega 2650" OwnerUserId="98" LastEditorUserId="98" LastEditDate="2016-04-19T06:45:01.950" LastActivityDate="2016-04-19T06:45:01.950" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="805" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-03-20T22:20:31.593" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;For questions regarding troubleshooting or design of a 3D Printer or 3D model's Z-axis. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For cartesian printers, the Z-axis is usually the direction of vertical movement of the hotend to and from the build plate to the maximum height of the printer, or the lowering of the bed for non moving platform printers in the Z direction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For delta printers, the Z-axis is used for, and defines, the movement of the third stepper associated with the third Z-axis tower.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is an axis or shaft direction in the &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cartesian_coordinate_system&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Cartesian coordinate system&lt;/a&gt;. Three axes describe the complete movement of the 3D printer. The Z-axis is usually the vertical movement of the platform from top to bottom when facing the a Cartesian style printer, or the vertical hotend movement up and down for non-moving platforms in the Z direction (e.g. CoreXY or H-bot printers).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="98" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2019-05-30T23:35:39.307" LastActivityDate="2019-05-30T23:35:39.307" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="806" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-03-20T22:20:31.593" Score="0" Body="Use this tag for questions related to specific movement of the Z direction of the printer - Questions about a machine or 3D model's Z-axis" OwnerUserId="98" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2019-05-30T23:21:39.357" LastActivityDate="2019-05-30T23:21:39.357" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="807" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-03-20T22:22:05.833" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;For questions regarding a 3D printer's stepper motor, fan motor, or any other motor that may be installed on a 3D printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="98" LastEditorUserId="98" LastEditDate="2016-04-18T06:34:45.927" LastActivityDate="2016-04-18T06:34:45.927" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="808" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-03-20T22:22:05.833" Score="0" Body="Questions about any various motors on a 3D printer" OwnerUserId="98" LastEditorUserId="98" LastEditDate="2016-04-18T06:35:20.053" LastActivityDate="2016-04-18T06:35:20.053" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="809" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-03-20T22:23:31.653" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;For questions regarding troubleshooting, design, or best-practices of either the original MakerBot Replicator Dual or the MakerBot Replicator 2X.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="98" LastEditorUserId="98" LastEditDate="2016-03-26T07:51:29.663" LastActivityDate="2016-03-26T07:51:29.663" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="810" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-03-20T22:23:31.653" Score="0" Body="Questions about a dual-extruding MakerBot Replicator" OwnerUserId="98" LastEditorUserId="98" LastEditDate="2016-04-18T06:34:01.363" LastActivityDate="2016-04-18T06:34:01.363" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="811" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-03-20T22:24:43.913" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;For questions regarding troubleshooting, design, or best-practices of a 3D printed surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="98" LastEditorUserId="98" LastEditDate="2016-04-18T06:33:41.330" LastActivityDate="2016-04-18T06:33:41.330" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="812" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-03-20T22:24:43.913" Score="0" Body="Questions about the surface of a 3D printed object" OwnerUserId="98" LastEditorUserId="98" LastEditDate="2016-04-18T06:36:01.970" LastActivityDate="2016-04-18T06:36:01.970" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="813" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="814" CreationDate="2016-03-21T04:49:04.347" Score="8" ViewCount="6801" Body="&lt;p&gt;This question is a bit of an edge case for what 3D Printing SE covers, but it has to do with topics most closely related to 3D printing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've found a plethora of ways to convert SVG (vector graphics) into G-code, but I can't seem to find any way to take a series of G-code movements and convert them into lines as a vector graphic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why would I want to do this, you ask?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a Silhouette, which can cut paper, or draw on paper, depending on if you insert a knife tool or a pen tool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a polar draw bot (Makelangelo) which doesn't want to behave... the motors keep losing steps when the number of steps/second is low, and thus positioning gets off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to use the drawing algorithms in the Makelangelo software to create drawings using my Silhouette, but the Silhouette wants vector graphics, not G-code.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The simplest way in my mind to do this is to convert G-code generated in the Makelangelo software, convert it to a standard vector format (SVG), and import it into Silhouette's software suite.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternately, if there's a way to send G-code directly to my Silhouette and have it work, that'd be a much better solution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="131" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-06-25T11:44:24.560" LastActivityDate="2018-06-25T11:44:24.560" Title="Convert G-code to SVG" Tags="|g-code|file-formats|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="814" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="813" CreationDate="2016-03-21T10:26:04.343" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a number of programs available which will convert g-code to DXF, a common drawing format. If your device does not support DXF directly, there are a number of programs to convert DXF to SVG. I would paste links but a quick search with your favorite search engine should give you useful results. The better conversion programs will allow you to eliminate movement g-code entries, which prevents connections between lines. I did not paste links, as my research shows such variety as to be overwhelming. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastActivityDate="2016-03-21T10:26:04.343" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="816" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="801" CreationDate="2016-03-21T15:36:43.037" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Despite how many vendors make it appear, resin-curing SLA/DLP printers are industrial or commercial tools that are really not suitable for home desktop use. Here are the major downsides:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Significantly more expensive to operate than FDM printers, in most cases. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The resin is seriously toxic until fully cured. Fumes can be an issue for users handling raw resin, and you should NEVER put a photopolymer print into a chemically-sensitive environment like an aquarium or children's toy. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Prints require messy post-processing to rinse off excess resin (usually with rubbing alcohol) and additional UV light exposure to finish hardening the photopolymer. The used alcohol/resin rinse mix is basically hazmat waste. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In bottom-up printers, the window in the print vat is typically a consumable. Some printers require replacing the vat ($$) after every liter or two of cured resin. (Technology is advancing rapidly here though.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The peel mechanism in bottom-up printers is often a major source of print flaws, due to the need to rock/tilt/slide the print to free it from the vat window.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In top-down printers, you have to pay a large up-front consumables cost to initially fill the resin tank. (There are workarounds here like floating a layer of resin on brine, but these have their own technical issues.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you leave the resin in the printer for an extended period, you'll probably find a hardened layer on the surface from stray light exposure and have to clean out or replace the vat.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Resin vats/tanks need to be kept clean and free of cured resin debris from failed prints or stray light. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Every combination of resin chemistry, printer light source, and printer optics requires specific tuning to dial in the photopolymer curing behavior. This means it's somewhat difficult to change resin brands, and you may effectively be locked into the printer manufacturer's resin. Many light sources will change in intensity or develop dim regions over time as they age, which will either harm print quality, require period recalibration, or require frequent light source replacement. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There is a limited number of options for print materials. Technology here is advancing rapidly, but for the most part, SLA/DLP prints are non-load-bearing models with a limited range of color options. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These are some pretty significant &quot;user experience&quot; downsides compared to a consumer desktop FDM printer. It's more hazard, more work, and more cost than FDM. SLA/DLP is primarily advantageous where high resolution or high print speeds are required. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="298" LastActivityDate="2016-03-21T15:36:43.037" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="817" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="796" CreationDate="2016-03-21T15:39:52.290" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Based on some troubleshooting in the question comments, it appears that the issue here is the motors running the wrong way. This can be fixed EITHER by inverting the motor directions in firmware, OR by simply flipping the orientation of the motor plugs where they connect to the controller board. Flipping the plugs is an easy and quick way to reverse the phase of a stepper and thus reverse its direction of motion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="298" LastActivityDate="2016-03-21T15:39:52.290" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="818" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-03-21T22:56:52.780" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;A Heated Build Plate or Platform is an additional piece of hardware that provides an additional heating element in the build platform assembly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="98" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-10-03T04:50:13.917" LastActivityDate="2018-10-03T04:50:13.917" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="819" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-03-21T22:56:52.780" Score="0" Body="Use this tag for questions about Heated Build Plates or Platforms (HBP) for 3D printers " OwnerUserId="98" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-10-03T04:50:13.917" LastActivityDate="2018-10-03T04:50:13.917" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="820" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-03-21T22:58:32.383" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Fused Filament Fabrication (or FFF) is an additive manufacturing technology that involves plotting the many 2D layers that a slicing engine takes of a 3D model.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="98" LastEditorUserId="98" LastEditDate="2016-03-27T06:12:58.653" LastActivityDate="2016-03-27T06:12:58.653" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="821" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-03-21T22:58:32.383" Score="0" Body="Questions about Fused Filament Fabrication (FFF) as an additive manufacturing technology." OwnerUserId="98" LastEditorUserId="98" LastEditDate="2016-04-19T06:44:41.670" LastActivityDate="2016-04-19T06:44:41.670" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="822" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-03-21T23:01:20.477" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;For question regarding the creation, editing, or troubles with the file extension type .OBJ&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="98" LastEditorUserId="98" LastEditDate="2016-03-27T06:12:26.090" LastActivityDate="2016-03-27T06:12:26.090" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="823" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-03-21T23:01:20.477" Score="0" Body="Questions about the system file type .OBJ" OwnerUserId="98" LastEditorUserId="98" LastEditDate="2016-04-18T06:35:34.630" LastActivityDate="2016-04-18T06:35:34.630" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="824" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-03-21T23:06:07.600" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;For questions regarding the 3D printing method &lt;strong&gt;Continuous Liquid Interface Production&lt;/strong&gt; (CLIP). Questions may include technical specifications and troubleshooting of the technology.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="98" LastEditorUserId="98" LastEditDate="2016-03-27T06:11:58.993" LastActivityDate="2016-03-27T06:11:58.993" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="825" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-03-21T23:06:07.600" Score="0" Body="Questions about the 3D printing method CLIP" OwnerUserId="98" LastEditorUserId="98" LastEditDate="2016-04-18T06:35:27.113" LastActivityDate="2016-04-18T06:35:27.113" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="826" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="847" CreationDate="2016-03-22T00:19:31.560" Score="6" ViewCount="628" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is my first time calibrating my printer and I'm not sure where to start. The printer is running Repetier v0.91 firmware that came on the SD card that came with the printer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway, the question I have is where do I start calibrating and how would I go about it? I have read on Google many ways and it seems there are different opinions. I am reading this at the moment: &lt;a href=&quot;http://reprap.org/wiki/Calibration&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;RepRap Wiki - Calibration&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1075" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2017-01-13T08:42:36.170" LastActivityDate="2017-01-13T08:42:36.170" Title="Beginner in calibrating HE3D Prusa XI3" Tags="|prusa-i3|calibration|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="827" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-03-22T03:02:45.777" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;For questions regarding troubleshooting, best-practices, or editing various 3D printing file formats such as (but not limited to) STL, GCODE, S3G, X3G, and more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="98" LastEditorUserId="98" LastEditDate="2016-03-27T06:12:45.450" LastActivityDate="2016-03-27T06:12:45.450" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="828" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-03-22T03:02:45.777" Score="0" Body="Questions about various 3D printing file formats." OwnerUserId="98" LastEditorUserId="98" LastEditDate="2016-04-18T06:34:35.100" LastActivityDate="2016-04-18T06:34:35.100" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="829" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-03-22T03:04:52.123" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;For questions regarding troubleshooting, settings, best-practices, and the general use of MakerBot Industries' slicing software, MakerWare.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="98" LastEditorUserId="98" LastEditDate="2016-03-26T07:51:45.617" LastActivityDate="2016-03-26T07:51:45.617" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="830" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-03-22T03:04:52.123" Score="0" Body="Questions about MakerWare, a slicing engine." OwnerUserId="98" LastEditorUserId="98" LastEditDate="2016-04-18T06:35:31.537" LastActivityDate="2016-04-18T06:35:31.537" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="831" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-03-22T03:06:23.287" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;For questions regarding troubleshooting, design, settings, and best-practices of 3D printing the internal structure of a sliced model.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="98" LastEditorUserId="98" LastEditDate="2016-03-27T06:13:40.847" LastActivityDate="2016-03-27T06:13:40.847" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="832" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-03-22T03:06:23.287" Score="0" Body="Questions about the internal structure of a 3D printed part." OwnerUserId="98" LastEditorUserId="98" LastEditDate="2016-04-18T06:33:50.970" LastActivityDate="2016-04-18T06:33:50.970" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="833" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-03-22T03:07:45.903" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;For questions regarding troubleshooting, best-practices, technical specifications, and safety when designing or 3D printing an object with multiple different material types.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="98" LastEditorUserId="98" LastEditDate="2016-03-27T06:13:07.093" LastActivityDate="2016-03-27T06:13:07.093" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="834" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-03-22T03:07:45.903" Score="0" Body="Questions about 3D printing with multiple materials." OwnerUserId="98" LastEditorUserId="98" LastEditDate="2016-04-18T06:33:18.190" LastActivityDate="2016-04-18T06:33:18.190" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="835" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-03-22T03:09:23.037" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;For questions regarding troubleshooting, design, maintenance, and otherwise of delta robot-style 3D printers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="98" LastEditorUserId="98" LastEditDate="2016-03-28T08:00:58.730" LastActivityDate="2016-03-28T08:00:58.730" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="836" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-03-22T03:09:23.037" Score="0" Body="Questions about delta-style 3D printers." OwnerUserId="98" LastEditorUserId="98" LastEditDate="2016-04-19T06:44:33.077" LastActivityDate="2016-04-19T06:44:33.077" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="837" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-03-22T03:12:31.443" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;For questions regarding troubleshooting, design, maintenance, etc. for the 3D printing method of Digital Light Processing (DLP).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="98" LastEditorUserId="98" LastEditDate="2016-03-26T07:50:01.687" LastActivityDate="2016-03-26T07:50:01.687" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="838" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-03-22T03:12:31.443" Score="0" Body="Questions about the Digital Light Processing (DLP) method of 3D printing." OwnerUserId="98" LastEditorUserId="98" LastEditDate="2016-04-18T06:35:53.177" LastActivityDate="2016-04-18T06:35:53.177" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="839" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-03-22T03:15:39.147" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;For questions regarding troubleshooting, best-practices, or otherwise with various 3D scanning technologies.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="98" LastEditorUserId="98" LastEditDate="2016-03-27T06:12:22.980" LastActivityDate="2016-03-27T06:12:22.980" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="840" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-03-22T03:15:39.147" Score="0" Body="Questions about 3D scanning." OwnerUserId="98" LastEditorUserId="98" LastEditDate="2016-04-18T06:33:24.360" LastActivityDate="2016-04-18T06:33:24.360" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="841" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-03-22T03:18:08.017" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ultimaker is a Netherlands-based company that designs and manufactures 3D printers. They are best known for their Ultimaker series printers and their Slicer platform Ultimaker Cura. They also make filaments.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Related tags:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/cura&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;cura&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;cura&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/ultimaker-1&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;ultimaker-1&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;ultimaker-1&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/ultimaker-2&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;ultimaker-2&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;ultimaker-2&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/ultimaker-3&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;ultimaker-3&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;ultimaker-3&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="98" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2019-08-31T08:10:36.227" LastActivityDate="2019-08-31T08:10:36.227" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="842" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-03-22T03:18:08.017" Score="0" Body="Questions about the 3D printer manufacturer Ultimaker. NOT for Questions about the Printers or their slicer Cura." OwnerUserId="98" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2019-08-31T08:10:36.227" LastActivityDate="2019-08-31T08:10:36.227" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="843" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-03-22T03:19:27.603" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;For questions regarding troubleshooting, design, maintenance, etc. for the 3D printing method of Selective Laser Melting (SLM).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="98" LastEditorUserId="98" LastEditDate="2016-03-27T06:13:22.000" LastActivityDate="2016-03-27T06:13:22.000" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="844" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-03-22T03:19:27.603" Score="0" Body="Questions about the Selective Laser Melting (SLM) method of 3D printing. " OwnerUserId="98" LastEditorUserId="98" LastEditDate="2016-04-19T06:44:50.013" LastActivityDate="2016-04-19T06:44:50.013" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="845" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-03-22T03:20:39.530" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;For questions regarding troubleshooting, design, maintenance, etc. for the 3D printing method of  Stereolithography (SLA). With this production process, parts are formed in a layer by layer fashion using photochemical processes by which light causes chemical monomers and oligomers to cross-link together to form polymers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="98" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-09-02T05:59:39.643" LastActivityDate="2021-09-02T05:59:39.643" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="846" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-03-22T03:20:39.530" Score="0" Body="Questions about the  Stereolithography (SLA) method of 3D printing. " OwnerUserId="98" LastEditorUserId="98" LastEditDate="2016-04-18T06:35:03.630" LastActivityDate="2016-04-18T06:35:03.630" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="847" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="826" CreationDate="2016-03-22T09:00:11.667" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's a great tutorial &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TiEw...zECor3EbqF8euw&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;here&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt; on youtube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And personally my favourite is this &lt;a href=&quot;http://reprap.org/wiki/Triffid_Hunter%27s_Calibration_Guide&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;tutorial.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="334" LastActivityDate="2016-03-22T09:00:11.667" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="848" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="711" CreationDate="2016-03-22T09:11:21.610" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure if it's possible, but on github is code for setting CuraEngine up. Maybe you'll find this link, &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/Ultimaker/CuraEngine/blob/master/src/settings/settings.cpp&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt; CuraEngine/src/settings/settings.cpp&lt;/a&gt; helpful. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The latest release has more speed customization. You can change first layer speed, outer shell speed, inner shell speed, infill speed, and top and bottom speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can cut objects, its just a little wonky. In the advanced tab there is a &quot;cut off object at Z height&quot; that you can use to cut objects in half.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Theoretically, you can put all settings into a JSON formatted file. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="334" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-08-15T12:12:02.717" LastActivityDate="2018-08-15T12:12:02.717" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="849" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="676" CreationDate="2016-03-22T09:18:23.690" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are no &quot;sensitive&quot; params here. You just need to set it up like the regular Smart Extruder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Like the original design, the Smart Extruder+ is supposed to make Replicator printers simpler to use, more reliable, and more future-proof. It automatically detects when the printer's filament runs out and pauses the job, notifying users via a desktop or mobile app. It also can be quickly swapped out upon wearing out or becoming obsolete. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additional improvements include faster print start up and refined build plate leveling, the process of calibrating a 3D printer. The smart sensors within the extruder have been enhanced for better performance and to streamline the printing process from start to completion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Improved components include:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A better thermal management system&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Extended PTFE tube to feed the filament into the nozzle&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Faster print start up&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Refined build plate leveling and calibration&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The enhanced smart sensors are a big part of the story here though in that they allow for better speed, along with savings on the bottom line too, keeping users informed about print status from beginning to end, whether from the PC or mobile app.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="334" LastActivityDate="2016-03-22T09:18:23.690" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="850" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-22T15:07:20.670" Score="4" ViewCount="1503" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was in the process of printing a 16 hour print, but I must have failed to copy the G-code correctly, because the print stopped after 107 of 223 layers. Looking at the G-code, It also stops there. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I had the full G-code on my computer, and decided to try and resume the print from layer 108. It seemed to work, with the exception of a little excess extrusion at a single point in the beginning, but after three layers, i noticed that it wasn't extruding anymore. I am not completely positive that it isn't due to nozzle jamming, but I have a strong feeling that the problem is the G-code itself, as it does extrude some plastic just before printing starts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are the first lines of my manually edited G-code. Can anyone see why I get the blob in the beginning, or why I don't get anything at all later on? Or does it look good, and my problem is probably the nozzle? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;;FLAVOR:UltiGCode&#xA;;TIME:60308&#xA;;MATERIAL:119047&#xA;;MATERIAL2:0&#xA;;NOZZLE_DIAMETER:0.400000&#xA;;NOZZLE_DIAMETER2:0.400000&#xA;;MTYPE:PLA&#xA;&#xA;;Layer count: 222&#xA;;LAYER:109&#xA;G0 F9000 X208.213 Y107.948 Z16.610&#xA;;TYPE:FILL&#xA;G1 F3600 X210.390 Y105.771 E4104.65185&#xA;G0 F9000 X210.390 Y103.170&#xA;G1 F3600 X168.331 Y61.111 E4107.77457&#xA;G0 F9000 X167.074 Y61.111&#xA;G1 F3600 X120.237 Y107.949 E4111.25208&#xA;G0 F9000 X121.695 Y107.949&#xA;G1 F3600 X74.857 Y61.111 E4114.72962&#xA;G0 F9000 X73.600 Y61.111&#xA;G1 F3600 X26.763 Y107.948 E4118.20709&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1104" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2019-08-31T08:27:47.673" LastActivityDate="2019-08-31T08:27:47.673" Title="No extrusion when trying to resume failed print with manually edited gcode" Tags="|g-code|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="851" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="850" CreationDate="2016-03-22T15:22:37.283" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to the RepRap.org &lt;a href=&quot;http://reprap.org/wiki/G-code&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;list of G-Code commands&lt;/a&gt;, see &lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#G0_.26_G1:_Move&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;G0 &amp;amp; G1: Move&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The &lt;code&gt;Ennn&lt;/code&gt; command is &lt;em&gt;The amount to extrude between the starting point and ending point&lt;/em&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, according to &lt;strike&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/daid/Cura/issues/385&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strike&gt; a discussion, that is now deleted from GitHub, about the Cura slicing engine:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;strong&gt;E&lt;/strong&gt; values are in &lt;em&gt;absolute mode&lt;/em&gt;, so perhaps the firmware is attempting to move the stepper motor to the absolute position (which is almost 50% through your print). This may lead to clogging or skipping depending on how hot your extruder is at that point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a last resort, you can perform a Boolean subtract on your model of the section that's already printed and re-slice the model to print the remaining bit. Then glue, or ABS weld, the remaining piece to the main print. I've done this in the past, it's not super glamorous, but it gets the job done if the part doesn't require a lot of structural integrity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;I was incorrect with the following statements with regard to the Cura slicing engine:&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;s&gt;It's been a while since I've looked at 3D printer G-Code, but from what I remember, &lt;strong&gt;E&lt;/strong&gt; values can be the bane of any manually written G-Code. Usually the slicing engine generates the &lt;strong&gt;E&lt;/strong&gt; value as an incremental step value throughout the G-Code (at least this was true for Skeinforge and early MakerWare, please verify this). So, if the value is incremental and depending on the controller, this value could be lost or corrupt if a new print is initialized.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would hope, that if you're using a slicing engine's &lt;em&gt;custom G-Code&lt;/em&gt; input, that the software would be able to compensate situations like this and reformat your provided G-Code to match the value of &lt;strong&gt;E&lt;/strong&gt; or any similar command.&lt;/s&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="98" LastEditorUserId="98" LastEditDate="2017-05-31T17:28:24.917" LastActivityDate="2017-05-31T17:28:24.917" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="852" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="752" CreationDate="2016-03-22T16:42:41.027" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I started to build with wood and then switched to T-extrusions -- very glad I switched. The aluminum is quite nice to work with. The extrusions are quite easy to cut, drill, file, etc. -- a hacksaw should be fine, though I often use a cutoff wheel on a &quot;Rotozip&quot; (basically an oversize Dremel).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just a couple caveats:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Think about which extrusions need to be exactly the same length as which others, and use extra care on those. For example, you might have 2 or 4 supports with plates screwed into the ends, and the plates need to be parallel. You'll probably want to cut the supports all a hair long, then clamp them together and file them all at once.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Extrusions from different companies may differ slightly for the same nominal size. I found that the drop-in nuts that fit my first rails, didn't quite fit the additional ones I bought from another seller later. Also, the center core took a different tap size when tapping the ends.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Be sure to get at least some drop-in nuts. Plain square nuts are a little cheaper, but it's a pain to disassemble anything to get a nut in when you want to add a bracket or fan or cable guide or something later.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;-s&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2016-03-24T15:11:33.057" LastActivityDate="2016-03-24T15:11:33.057" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="855" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="409" CreationDate="2016-03-23T17:50:52.280" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;A few months ago I bought a cheap (220 USD) &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Prusa_i3&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Prusa i3&lt;/a&gt; kit from China and put it together. Putting it together was fun and still a bit of a challenge. It was also nice to have pre-configured firmware already loaded onto the Melzi board that came with it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So for the downside: The board (Melzi) that came in the kit only supports one extruder so if I want to add more extruders later I have to replace it. This means that in that case I would have paid for two boards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maybe you should ask yourself what your #1 goal is. If you are mostly interested in having a printer for use in other projects, then a kit might be what you want. If your main interest is having something to tinker with, then maybe you should go all in and make everything from scratch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1126" LastEditorUserId="1333" LastEditDate="2016-11-25T12:23:06.280" LastActivityDate="2016-11-25T12:23:06.280" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="857" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="859" CreationDate="2016-03-24T02:32:29.347" Score="6" ViewCount="2503" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have adjusted my z axis end stop via the paper test. However when I press to home all the axis the z axis hits the print bed moves it down slightly then goes to the postion I describe. Is this how its supose to be if not what do I need to do?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1075" LastActivityDate="2016-04-30T15:14:36.317" Title="Adjusting the Z end stop?" Tags="|calibration|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="858" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="216" CreationDate="2016-03-24T08:43:28.727" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Richrap had a &lt;a href=&quot;http://richrap.blogspot.de/2016/02/glass-3d-print-build-surfaces-are-not.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;detailed blog post&lt;/a&gt; on this issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;TLDR: Glass screen protectors (for ipads or other tablets) are wells suited to protect the glass from chipping.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1134" LastActivityDate="2016-03-24T08:43:28.727" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="859" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="857" CreationDate="2016-03-24T14:14:25.567" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Typically a machine will rapid to find its software stop(s), retract and slowly find its mechanical end stop. Please regard the RepRap Wiki for &lt;a href=&quot;http://reprap.org/wiki/Endstop&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;general troubleshooting&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://reprap.org/wiki/Mechanical_Endstop&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;basic technical information&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="98" LastActivityDate="2016-03-24T14:14:25.567" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="860" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-25T02:37:01.793" Score="8" ViewCount="12479" Body="&lt;p&gt;Suppose I want to to print several copies of a large, flat object, such as a hollow frame. If I make an STL file consisting of several copies floating just above each other then my 3D printer's software happily generates supports for the upper objects to sit on, as shown below:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XbxbGm.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XbxbGm.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is, is this a crazy idea? If it will work it seems it has several advantages. I can print more copies at once than if I tried to fit them next to each other on the platform, and if one of the prints fails the ones below it will still be OK. It doesn't take that much more filament than printing them all separately.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'll probably try it at some point just to see what happens, but it's not something I've heard of people doing before, so I'm wondering if there's a good reason why it won't work or would otherwise not be a good strategy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="612" LastActivityDate="2016-03-26T02:38:07.913" Title="Printing multiple prints stacked on top of each other" Tags="|3d-design|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="861" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="860" CreationDate="2016-03-25T10:26:27.873" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you can get it to work reliably and with decent quality, it would be a good solution. However, you might find it unreliable and the bottom surfaces of the objects might not turn out very nice (as is usually the case with overhangs that needs support). How well this will work is strongly dependent on the object being printed, and this probably will only work for a very small class of objects.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You don't gain much by doing this, as printing multiples &quot;at once&quot; isn't much faster compared to printing them sequentially (that is, if you have time to check on your printer and reset it between prints).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastActivityDate="2016-03-25T10:26:27.873" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="863" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="850" CreationDate="2016-03-25T10:42:27.823" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is the hotend temperature set correctly? If you only preheat the hotend but then turn it off, it will behave exactly as you described (while you're above &lt;code&gt;EXTRUDE_MINTEMP&lt;/code&gt; it will behave normally, but once the temperature drops too low it will continue doing the XYZ-moves, but stop extruding). Perhaps you need to add a &lt;code&gt;M109&lt;/code&gt; command to set the temperature properly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/850/no-extrusion-when-trying-to-resume-failed-print-with-manually-edited-gcode/851#851&quot;&gt;In his answer&lt;/a&gt;, tbm0115 mentions absolute and relative coordinates. Whether absolute or relative coordinates are used is set using the &lt;code&gt;G90&lt;/code&gt;/&lt;code&gt;G91&lt;/code&gt; commands and will always be the same for all axes (XYZ and E). He also mentions that:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;so perhaps the firmware is attempting to move the stepper motor to the absolute position (which is almost 50% thru your print). This may lead to clogging or skipping depending on how hot your extruder is at that point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This shouldn't happen, as extremely long extrude moves are ignored by Marlin. When the printer encounters&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;G1 F3600 X210.390 Y105.771 E4104.65185&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;it performs only the XYZ-part of the move, but doesn't move the extruder (assuming the printer was reset and the current extruder position is 0). However, it does update the internal value for the extruder position, so the next move happens normally. Perhaps missing the initial extrude segment isn't a big deal, but if you want the print to resume perfectly where you left off, you should add a &lt;code&gt;G92&lt;/code&gt; command to the beginning to initialize the extruder position correctly, for example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;G92 E4104.4&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(but the exact value depends on the last extruder position in the previous layer).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastEditorUserId="26" LastEditDate="2017-05-31T06:23:55.527" LastActivityDate="2017-05-31T06:23:55.527" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="864" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="872" CreationDate="2016-03-25T13:09:16.460" Score="3" ViewCount="2698" Body="&lt;p&gt;I purchased the following wire for my MK2a heated bed:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;McMaster Carr&#xA;1 8209K11 840 Degree F Braided Oven Wire 20 Gauge, Tan, 10 ft. Length 1&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will this be acceptable?  I'd like to print with ABS, which I know that the heatbed has to be hotter than when printing with PLA.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastActivityDate="2017-03-23T03:23:50.593" Title="Can I use 20 gauge wire for my Mk2a Heatbed?" Tags="|heated-bed|mk2a|wire-type|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="865" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="879" CreationDate="2016-03-25T13:20:07.487" Score="2" ViewCount="56" Body="&lt;p&gt;I saw a video in which someone used GC Electronics Type 44 Non-Contaminating Heat Sink Compound (Part No. 10-8118) to hold the resistor for heating up the J-Head extruder head in place.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is that a good way to attach it so it heats up the aluminum block?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastActivityDate="2016-03-26T03:36:39.483" Title="Attaching the resistor for the J-Head Extruder with Type 44 Non-Contaminating Heat Sink Compound?" Tags="|extruder|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="866" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="873" CreationDate="2016-03-25T13:44:43.030" Score="4" ViewCount="900" Body="&lt;p&gt;I ordered an &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B007KG0ZYI&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;OEM Power Supply&lt;/a&gt; and I intend to hook up with &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B00511QVVK&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this rocker switch&lt;/a&gt; I believe it's like the one specified in the &lt;a href=&quot;http://reprap.org/wiki/Power_Supply#OEM_type_PSU&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Power Supply Documentation&lt;/a&gt; which reads:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;In the US, IEC320 C14 plug connections are common, but use your&#xA;  preferred standard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've also seen where this was attached in &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:31659&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this thingiverse project&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Inside the switch I've also added an F4AL250V fuse.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now what's confusing me is, that the &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B00511QVVK&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this rocker switch&lt;/a&gt; on the back reads 10A 250V~ so I'm wondering if it's safe to use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The switch will be connected to the house mains via a plug and wired just like in the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:31659&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this thingiverse project&lt;/a&gt;, so it can be the input into my &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B007KG0ZYI&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;OEM Power Supply&lt;/a&gt; via the black (hot - L), white (Common - N) and Green (Ground) wires.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the connecting wires I stripped a black PC Tower wire to get at the black, white, and ground wires inside it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://reprap.org/wiki/Power_Supply#OEM_type_PSU&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://reprap.org/wiki/Power_Supply#OEM_type_PSU&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastActivityDate="2016-03-27T17:00:51.570" Title="Safely Hooking a Switch up to an OEM Power Supply?" Tags="|prusa-i3-rework|switching-power-supply|wiring|wire-type|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="867" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="258" CreationDate="2016-03-25T13:47:16.500" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have had best results with ABS on a heated printbed &#xA;(untaped) with a thin coat of UHU Stic. It can be a little tricky to remove but minimizes damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1149" LastActivityDate="2016-03-25T13:47:16.500" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="868" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-25T13:48:11.593" Score="5" ViewCount="43" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm aware of two thermsistors in the Prusia i3 Rework.  Are they the same?  And if not, how do you tell them apart?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastActivityDate="2016-03-25T15:42:06.927" Title="Are the thermsistors identical for both the heatbed and the extruder head?" Tags="|prusa-i3|thermistor|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="869" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="868" CreationDate="2016-03-25T15:15:55.270" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;This depends on how you ended up with your finished printer. If it was a kit, then there is a chance that the thermistors might be the same, however, even a kit manufacturer might buy parts that come preassembled as I could imagine being the case for the hotend.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To find out about the actual thermistor &lt;strong&gt;you would need to look up the spec sheet&lt;/strong&gt; of the manufacturer of your printer or the individual parts, afaik there is no way to identify them by having them in your hand beyond identifying the resistivity and the coefficient type by using a multimeter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could, of course, check the resistivity for a whole temperature range to compare the table of your thermistor to the tables which are listed in firmware, but then you could compile your own tables right away.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="168" LastEditorUserId="168" LastEditDate="2016-03-25T15:42:06.927" LastActivityDate="2016-03-25T15:42:06.927" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="870" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="874" CreationDate="2016-03-25T15:15:58.453" Score="3" ViewCount="850" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't want to blow out my multimeter or my electronics, so is it safe to test the DC output voltage with a multimeter on my &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B007KG0ZYI&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;OEM power supply&lt;/a&gt;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastEditorUserId="1333" LastEditDate="2016-05-17T20:29:17.030" LastActivityDate="2016-05-17T20:30:45.377" Title="Can I use a multimeter to test the outgoing voltage of this power supply?" Tags="|prusa-i3-rework|switching-power-supply|multi-meter|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="871" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="876" CreationDate="2016-03-25T15:24:37.770" Score="1" ViewCount="1233" Body="&lt;p&gt;I obtained the following wire 22 Gauge Stranded Hookup Wire from Radio Shack:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Type/Style: AWM/1007&#xA;Wire Gauge: 22 AWG&#xA;Insulation Thickness: AVE. 0.42 mm&#xA;Rated Voltage: 300V&#xA;Temperature Rating: 80°C / 176°F    &#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Use Limitation: Internal wiring of appliances; or where exposed to oil&#xA;  at a temperature not exceeding 60°C or 80°C, whichever is applicable..&#xA;  Tags may indicate the following: 600V Peak - For Electronic Use Only.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd like to be able to hook up RAMPs 1.4 to my &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B007KG0ZYI&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;switching power supply&lt;/a&gt; with this wire.  Will this work okay?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastActivityDate="2016-04-24T20:48:03.543" Title="Is 22-Guage Stranded Hookup Wire the correct wire to connect the Switching Powersupply to RAMPs 1.4?" Tags="|prusa-i3-rework|switching-power-supply|wire-type|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="872" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="864" CreationDate="2016-03-25T15:25:21.723" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your wire should be rated for at least the necessary 11 amps which the MK2a heatbed is supposed to take.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can check this by measuring the resistivity of your wire:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Always test the heatbed wiring for resistance. Remember, at 10A, 0.1Ohms means 1V voltage drop means 10W dissipated by the wiring!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;as taken from &lt;a href=&quot;http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?392,493405&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?392,493405&lt;/a&gt; (useful read for seeing what CAN actually happen)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Did you read through the following links? They might clear up some questions:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://reprap.org/wiki/PCB_Heatbed&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://reprap.org/wiki/PCB_Heatbed&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://reprap.org/wiki/Heatbeds_-_A_beginner&amp;#39;s_guide&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://reprap.org/wiki/Heatbeds_-_A_beginner's_guide&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I personally would use 1.5 mm² cables, which translates to about 15 gauge wire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*edit: This is a nice table to check:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.powerstream.com/Wire_Size.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.powerstream.com/Wire_Size.htm&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="168" LastEditorUserId="168" LastEditDate="2016-03-25T15:33:51.670" LastActivityDate="2016-03-25T15:33:51.670" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="873" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="866" CreationDate="2016-03-25T15:30:21.320" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;At 250V a rating for 10A means 2500 Watts, which is fairly enough to use with a typical 3D printer. Make sure that the wire you use to connect the switch to the power supply can also take the current you need. Easiest way to get a cable that is safe to use is salvaging a mains cable from other devices. I would not use wires that were made for low power use and with unsolid connections.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*edit: I'm still not sure which cable you intended to use from this tower PC. If it is a mains cable like this &lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/search?q=mains+power+cable&amp;amp;source=lnms&amp;amp;tbm=isch&amp;amp;sa=X&amp;amp;ved=0ahUKEwjL6Y23l9zLAhUCrRoKHXvsArsQ_AUIBygB&amp;amp;biw=1421&amp;amp;bih=922&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://www.google.com/search?q=mains+power+cable&amp;amp;source=lnms&amp;amp;tbm=isch&amp;amp;sa=X&amp;amp;ved=0ahUKEwjL6Y23l9zLAhUCrRoKHXvsArsQ_AUIBygB&amp;amp;biw=1421&amp;amp;bih=922&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;you should be on the safe side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="168" LastEditorUserId="168" LastEditDate="2016-03-25T15:47:31.430" LastActivityDate="2016-03-25T15:47:31.430" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="874" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="870" CreationDate="2016-03-25T15:38:54.723" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;If your multimeter can handle the voltage, it should be safe. 12&amp;nbsp;V should be in the capability range of common multimeters, so I would tend to say yes, - but make sure that your multimeter can handle the voltage and be sure it is set to voltage mode in the appropriate range (if set to current measurement mode for example, it will not survive).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also take the typical precautions when measuring with a multimeter, as described in, for example, &lt;em&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/33569&quot;&gt;Safety equipment and precautions for DC circuit experimentation and development&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="168" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:33:11.380" LastActivityDate="2016-05-17T20:30:45.377" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="875" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="871" CreationDate="2016-03-25T17:58:21.563" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;That should be fine for powering RAMPS, steppers and extruders but it is on the thin side. To err on the side of caution you should use somewhat ticker wires. However, you should definitely use thicker wires for the heated bed connection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastEditorUserId="26" LastEditDate="2016-03-25T20:08:05.217" LastActivityDate="2016-03-25T20:08:05.217" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="876" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="871" CreationDate="2016-03-25T18:21:09.587" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;22awg wiring is good for a max of 7A in this usage case. Your power supply can provide 30A. So it is definitely not large enough wire gauge for good wiring practice -- in the event of a short, you want the PSU's over-current protection to kick in before the wiring overheats. That would mean 14ga between the PSU and board. 16ga would probably cover your actual load requirements just fine, but we need to know a lot more about your printer to say that for sure. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;12v systems need heavy duty wiring, at least on the main supply lines. You can use 22ga for individual power consumers, such as fans, extruder heaters, etc. (No heatbeds.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="298" LastEditorUserId="298" LastEditDate="2016-03-25T20:05:55.917" LastActivityDate="2016-03-25T20:05:55.917" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="877" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="883" CreationDate="2016-03-26T00:42:59.643" Score="3" ViewCount="1014" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a monoprice printer, works great. .4mm nozzle. I bought a number of PLA solid colors and they all print reliably.&#xA;I also bought 2 rolls of PLA translucent colors, and I have lots of trouble printing with them.&#xA;What I eventually noticed was that when the translucent filaments extrude, they come out in a noticeably thinner stream.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not sure why, I've tried increasing the hot end temperature and printing slower, but nothing seems to help. The effect seems to be that not enough filament comes out from the nozzle for the speed the head is printing at.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I use cura for the slicer, and I've tried changing the filament flow percentage and I've tried slowing down the print speed. Nothing seems to help, the nozzle ends up dragging the recently extruded filament around the bed until it all comes off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has anybody else seen this, where translucent filament extrudes thinner than solid colors? Any suggestions what to try to make it stick and print reliably?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1155" LastActivityDate="2016-03-26T13:53:17.460" Title="How do I compensate in cura for thinner filament?" Tags="|filament|speed|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="878" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="860" CreationDate="2016-03-26T02:38:07.913" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Whether this is or is not crazy is largely dependent on two factors: the printer that you are using and the objects that you are printing. I would only recommend this strategy if you are using dissolvable support material, because separating the parts with breakaway supports will be extremely difficult. Next, this strategy is desirable, because it saves support material; however, that is only true if all of the profiles of the parts are very similar to each other (ideally the profile of each part should cover the profile of each part above it).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As long as you are using the right printer and printing compatible parts, this is a great strategy. It saves space, time, and support material; moreover, stacking parts may also reduce warping due to thermal expansion (a big problem when printing with ABS), because each part acts like a raft for the part above it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1156" LastActivityDate="2016-03-26T02:38:07.913" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="879" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="865" CreationDate="2016-03-26T03:36:39.483" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Nope, not adequate. When heating at maximum power, you should expect the resistor to be 50-100C hotter than the hot block. (It must be hotter than the block in order to transfer heat to the block.) GC 10-8118 is only rated for 200C, but the service conditions at the power resistor may run up to 300-400C depending on power output and desired hot end temp. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For that matter, you may want to question whether the power resistor itself is rated for the &gt;300C temps it will see in normal service. It's probably not. Most modern hot end designs use steel-jacketed heater cartridges instead of power resistors because they can handle higher temps and are, you know, actually designed to be used as heaters. The power resistors used in older hot end designs are generally being operated way past their design ratings. It's kind of amazing they work at all. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="298" LastActivityDate="2016-03-26T03:36:39.483" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="880" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-26T08:53:37.860" Score="6" ViewCount="2012" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I bought a prusa i3 kit from a company called folger tech off of ebay. I've built it and even printed out a few parts, but I noticed that a lot of noise seemed to be happening only while the x-axis motor was moving the extruder. Then I noticed if I put my finger lightly on the plastic part of the x-carriage I could dampen the vibrations and pretty much eliminate the noise I noticed. Then I took apart that part of the printer and examined everything and all I could notice that seemed to be loose was that nut that allows the z motor to push up the x carriage. I don't know if I got a bad nut, or a bad screw, or is it's just supposed to be this way? I thought it was kind of a weird way to build things with a screw turning a nut, because I thought that it would bind up. But now I'm wondering if that is why it was so loose fitting (to reduce friction)? So does it need to be that way? Or could I get a different nut? Or is there some better way to go about fixing this issue? Or perhaps it's not even an issue.. idk.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="414" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2019-08-31T07:59:44.777" LastActivityDate="2019-08-31T07:59:44.777" Title="Is there a reason for the z-axis M5 drive nut to be super loose on the lead screw?" Tags="|prusa-i3|z-axis|mechanics|lead-screw|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="881" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="880" CreationDate="2016-03-26T09:34:45.340" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's probably intentional. Threaded rods are almost never perfectly straight. If the nut is rigidly coupled to the carriage, then the slightest deviation in the screw will either cause it to bind up or appear as artifacts (e.g. z-wobble) in the print. By making the nut slightly loose, it can move around a bit to compensate for wobble. See e.g. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:20147&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this design&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3057&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this design&lt;/a&gt; for how this is commonly implemented in other printers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastActivityDate="2016-03-26T09:34:45.340" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="882" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="884" CreationDate="2016-03-26T13:05:02.423" Score="3" ViewCount="1724" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to print a model that I acquired in the LiDAR file format LAS.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't have a printer but I'm planning to send a model to one of those shops who print for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What do I need to do beforehand to make it print OK?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1160" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-09-14T21:15:25.437" LastActivityDate="2018-09-14T21:15:25.437" Title="How to print LiDAR file format LAS" Tags="|scanning|file-formats|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="883" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="877" CreationDate="2016-03-26T13:53:17.460" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In cura (if you are not in the quick print mode) you can dine the diameter of your filament. Setting the filament diameter to a smaller value will give you more plastic coming out of the nozzle. You can also set the flow percentage to more than 100%&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should also try to use a skirt. Some nozzles need some time until the flow is like it should be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another reason for this might be that the distance between bed and nozzle is too high. Try to level your bed so that the distance is less than before.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If all this doesn't work then it will at lest give you new ideas of where to look.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Best luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="204" LastActivityDate="2016-03-26T13:53:17.460" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="884" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="882" CreationDate="2016-03-26T14:52:31.447" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Because my research shows that LAS files are point cloud data, you would first have to convert the point cloud to a mesh. Point clouds are just that, data references to points in 3d space. A printing service works with files that represent planar surfaces, properly joined (watertight, aka manifold) to form a solid or solid surface model.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only resource I was able to find involves using Meshlab. There are two reasonably practical references for this process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first is somewhat generic and provides the conceptual information:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://meshlabstuff.blogspot.com/2009/09/meshing-point-clouds.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Point Clouds to Mesh&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The second appears to be a more step-by-step method:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gmv.cast.uark.edu/scanning/point-clouds-to-mesh-in-meshlab/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Point Clouds to Mesh (2)&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would expect that if you are successful in creating a mesh from your data, you would then want to use a program suitable to determine (and repair) any non-manifold portions of the model. There are many available, including Meshmixer, although the others have escaped my alleged mind at this moment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastActivityDate="2016-03-26T14:52:31.447" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="885" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="886" CreationDate="2016-03-26T15:27:18.303" Score="4" ViewCount="213" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have done the calibration for the x, y, and z axis and everything works fine there. However when I went to do the calibration for extruder things got a little weird. The original number programmed on the board for the step per mm was 98 When I did my first measurements I used 120mm as the mark on the filament then extruded 100mm then remeasured the mark it was 37.66. Then by using the new_e_steps = old_e_steps * (100/(120-distance). I would use the new number and upload it to the printer which was 119.0187. After that I took another measurement, the new measurement was 61.27mm after marking 120mm then extruding 100mm of filament. Using the formula it came out to be 202.6540. Then the new measurement was some where around 80 some MM. It seams that the more I do the calibration the less accurate it gets. What am I doing wrong here?&lt;a href=&quot;http://reprap.org/wiki/Triffid_Hunter%27s_Calibration_Guide&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Triffid Hunters Calibration&lt;/a&gt; is the guide I have been using and this link is to the specifications to the printer &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.3dprintersonlinestore.com/reprap-prusa-xi3&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;HE3D Prusa XI3&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1075" LastEditorUserId="1075" LastEditDate="2016-03-26T17:05:48.157" LastActivityDate="2018-09-27T20:21:39.070" Title="Prusa XI3 Extruder Calibration" Tags="|extruder|prusa-i3|calibration|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="886" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="885" CreationDate="2016-03-26T17:21:34.873" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is really strange that although you &lt;em&gt;increased&lt;/em&gt; the steps per mm, the amount extruded was &lt;em&gt;less&lt;/em&gt;. I can think of two possible explanations:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You are extruding too quickly, at a rate at which the extruder can't keep up melting the filament fast enough, causing the filament to slip or the extruder to miss steps: try lowering the feedrate (a feedrate like 100mm/min is typical for 1.75mm filament) and make sure that the temperature is appropriate to your filament.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You are in absolute coordinate mode, and when you try to extrude 100mm it actually extrudes a different amount (based on the previous &quot;position&quot; of the extruder). Enter relative coordinate mode using G91.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastActivityDate="2016-03-26T17:21:34.873" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="887" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-26T19:42:28.583" Score="11" ViewCount="1488" Body="&lt;p&gt;First of all I'm working with a Folger Tech Prusa i3 kit, if that makes a difference. Also I believe the Arduino is a Mega 2560.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know somewhere in the back of my head that electrically programmable ROM like what must be on the Arduino board storing the firmware degrades a little, each time you write to it. Right now I'm trying to calibrate away another print problem, and I think I need to modify the firmware yet again, which I've already done several times. So I'm starting to worry about how many times I can do that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Well, once I remembered the acronym &quot;EEPROM&quot;, and after a little googling, I came across this, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.arduino.cc/en/Reference/EEPROMWrite&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Arduino - EEPROM&lt;/a&gt;, which says that it can handle 100k cycles, so I think I'm onto the answer, but the problem is I'm not sure if a cycle is an entire file being uploaded? Wouldn't it be a single blip of data? And if so how many cycles would the average Marlin file consume?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also found this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;but I'd be very surprised if I've uploaded to it more than 2000 times&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;on &lt;a href=&quot;http://forum.arduino.cc/index.php?topic=58243.0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Mega2560 bricked? not detected, DFU failing&lt;/a&gt;, indicating that the answer might be as low as 2000. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Failure modes&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;There are two limitations of stored information; endurance, and data&#xA;  retention.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;During rewrites, the gate oxide in the floating-gate transistors&#xA;  gradually accumulates trapped electrons. The electric field of the&#xA;  trapped electrons adds to the electrons in the floating gate, lowering&#xA;  the window between threshold voltages for zeros vs ones. After&#xA;  sufficient number of rewrite cycles, the difference becomes too small&#xA;  to be recognizable, the cell is stuck in programmed state, and&#xA;  endurance failure occurs. The manufacturers usually specify the&#xA;  maximum number of rewrites being 1 million or more.[5]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;During storage, the electrons injected into the floating gate may&#xA;  drift through the insulator, especially at increased temperature, and&#xA;  cause charge loss, reverting the cell into erased state. The&#xA;  manufacturers usually guarantee data retention of 10 years or more.[6]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;from Wikipedia: &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/EEPROM#Failure_modes&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;EEPROM - Failure Modes&lt;/a&gt;, indicating the answer might be into the millions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At this point I'm just wondering if an expert might see this and relieve my angst...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="414" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2019-04-18T09:51:32.780" LastActivityDate="2019-04-18T09:51:32.780" Title="How many times can you re-flash the Marlin firmware to a RAMPS 1.4 board before it degrades the ROM?" Tags="|marlin|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="888" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="887" CreationDate="2016-03-26T20:36:40.923" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;The EEPROM is &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; where the program itself is stored, what's relevant for your question is the flash. The flash in the ATmega2560 &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.atmel.com/images/atmel-2549-8-bit-avr-microcontroller-atmega640-1280-1281-2560-2561_datasheet.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;is rated for 10,000 cycles&lt;/a&gt; (i.e. you can reprogram it &lt;em&gt;at least&lt;/em&gt; 10,000 times).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-08-09T10:27:40.237" LastActivityDate="2018-08-09T10:27:40.237" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="889" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-27T00:17:57.743" Score="6" ViewCount="308" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm popping my cherry here, so to speak. Refer to my Hackaday project for system details &amp;amp; pictures:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Sciclone 3D Printer Conversion&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;Repurposing a lab-grade liquid handling system to a 3D printer featuring 3 axis, 20 micron bi-directional repeatability on a 14 cubic foot build platform.  &lt;a href=&quot;https://hackaday.io/project/3212-sciclone-3d-printer-conversion&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://hackaday.io/project/3212-sciclone-3d-printer-conversion&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have an opportunity to repurpose a high-dollar lab machine into a 3D printer with very high performance capabilities and 14 cubic feet of production volume.  Although FDM is certainly a realistic &quot;no-brainer&quot; capability for this setup, I believe this level of accuracy, speed and volume - not to mention the original cost being well over $100K - justifies a finer level of output and I believe Stereolithography (SLA) is what I'd like to concentrate on.  With such a large printing surface/volume (37&quot;X x 24&quot;Y x 28&quot;Z), I don't know how I would implement a DLP projector to cover such a large surface and still maintain the level of accuracy and resolution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This system is already equipped with the highest quality stepper motors and a &quot;staccato&quot; high-speed driver-controller, an on-board pneumatic &amp;amp; electrical 6-channel controller that could be used for selecting colors, resin injection/flow, resin tank elevation, curing LEDs, temperature/ventilation fans, laser scanning, router speed, etc.  The X &amp;amp; Y movement guide bars are located in the upper deck, moving the Z axis component assembly.  That assembly requires simplification to enable it to be downsized to allow for the printer output to reach closer to the perimeter of the output area, but the weight &amp;amp; bulk of the assembly is greater than any DLP projector that would take its place so this system can reliably perform with a heavier projector if necessary. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically, I think I'm looking for a software-defined method of coordinating the X &amp;amp; Y movement of the projector's output to the printing surface (presumable a tray of photo-sensitive SLA resin).  Since the projector's proximity to the printing surface must remain relatively close, the output will be constrained to an area significantly smaller than this platform's entire printable surface, the projector's output will have to &quot;play a movie&quot; of the model and instead of projecting still images, I believe it would require an animated output that exposes the resin to build models.  Sort of like a silk screen process but with UV light.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm slightly familiar with the concept of manipulating laser beams using micro mirror aiming devices to draw on SLA resin beds - and this is a possible solution if I knew where to find such a component and how to control it, but that kind of printing would be far too slow for making large-scale models because it would essentially almost as slow as a pen plotter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is anyone aware of an existing method of integrating the &quot;moving picture&quot; method I'm thinking of, or have I envisioned something that hasn't been invented yet?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cheers!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4P3nm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4P3nm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Sciclone-Before Conversion&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1163" LastEditorUserId="26" LastEditDate="2016-03-27T06:55:48.633" LastActivityDate="2017-05-25T20:49:18.147" Title="Is there a method or S/W available to stitch together a DLP projector's output into a &quot;moving picture&quot; to SLA print in a larger area than its output?" Tags="|software|applications|sla|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="890" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="887" CreationDate="2016-03-27T15:03:55.723" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The AVR has SRAM for variables (what is usually called RAM), it has EEPROM for non volatile variables and it has flash for the executable code. (Harvard Architecture!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For re-flashing the firmware neither SRAM nor EEPROM write rates are important, but the Flash rates are. The flash write rates are in the region of 100 thousand to a million so that should not be a problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The article you linked also states that he did not more than 2000 rewrites and therefore should be fine. I can only agree. A few thousand re-flashes is no problem. Once you get closer to 100 thousand you can start to worry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Flash bits can only be written from 1 to 0. Erasing the flash writes all bits to 1. Erasing can only be done on a flash page (size is device dependent but usually a multiple of 512).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="204" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2016-11-04T12:31:16.593" LastActivityDate="2016-11-04T12:31:16.593" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="891" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="866" CreationDate="2016-03-27T17:00:51.570" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The power supply that you posted is 12v 360w.  This means that (in the USA with 120v power), it will draw 3 amps at 120v.  Your switch is rated for 10A at 250V so it works.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The switch should be placed to interrupt the HOT wire coming from the wall to your power supply.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you happen to be using 240v power, it is also safe as you would be drawing 1.5 amps at 240v which is still within the spec of the switch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="43" LastActivityDate="2016-03-27T17:00:51.570" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="893" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="880" CreationDate="2016-03-29T06:56:51.920" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I do not agree with the answer of Tom.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In a proper design, the nut is supposed NOT to be loose, especially in the Z-direction. All options of the nut to move can cause imprecise layer heights and Z-wobble. There is also the possibility to introduce Z-wobble by bent rods and good contact of the nut. However, Z-wobble is not what I want to address.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, to me, it seems possible that your rod or your nut (or both) are looser than they are supposed to be. However, I don't know the exact design of your printer. Usually there is some play along the axis, but hardly any perpendicular to it. Typically this can introduce a &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hysteresis&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;hysteresis (wikipedia link)&lt;/a&gt; in the placement of the X-carriage. There is a nifty design against this, which most likely should also help you to get rid of your noise: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:694575&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Thingverse: Z-axis anti backlash for Prusa i3&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;First&lt;/strong&gt;, however, you should check the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Are both your Z-axis drives set to the same height, or is just one of them doing the work (which would be very rare, by the nature of the design)?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is your nut lose in the X-carriage? While the nut should not be lose itself, it should be totally fixed in the X-carriage (again: typically, but I don't know the FolgerTech approach).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Try other nuts from the hardware store to be sure whether you have a faulty nut or not.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;While you're there you can connect a threaded rod with nuts there to gain experience what the typical degree of freedom in this union is.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="168" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2017-05-30T08:50:10.780" LastActivityDate="2017-05-30T08:50:10.780" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="894" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="895" CreationDate="2016-03-29T21:18:42.210" Score="7" ViewCount="12039" Body="&lt;p&gt;E3D mentions on their &lt;a href=&quot;http://wiki.e3d-online.com/wiki/E3D-v6_Assembly#Usage_Guidance&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;own wiki&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Excessively long retractions will cause issues by dragging soft filament into cold areas. [...] for bowden systems you might want to go up to 2&amp;nbsp;mm. Retraction beyond 2&amp;nbsp;mm is likely to cause issues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have retraction set to the recommended maximum of 2&amp;nbsp;mm, but I still get a lot of stringing and blobs. My printer is set up with a relatively long Bowden tube (500-600&amp;nbsp;mm). I wonder if I need to push my retraction setting slightly beyond 2&amp;nbsp;mm to take up some of the slack. Is the 2&amp;nbsp;mm a conservative rating (I guess they don't want dissatisfied customers with clogging problems) or is it really the maximum? Is there anything else I can do to improve retraction performance? (I already have a small coasting distance of 0.1&amp;nbsp;mm set.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-09-30T10:28:35.177" LastActivityDate="2019-09-30T10:28:35.177" Title="Can I increase retraction length on an E3D v6 beyond 2 mm if I have a really long Bowden tube?" Tags="|bowden|e3d-v6|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="895" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="894" CreationDate="2016-03-30T00:15:10.073" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, you can increase retraction past E3D's max 2&amp;nbsp;mm recommendation to compensate for Bowden tube stretch and slop. The reason for the recommendation is that jams will occur with most all-metal hot ends if you pull molten filament up into the cold zone. Any molten filament that enters the cold zone rapidly cools and hardens and sticks to the walls, very often forming a jam. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, the requirement is to keep your retraction distance &lt;em&gt;at the extruder&lt;/em&gt; less than 2&amp;nbsp;mm. Additional retraction travel that is absorbed by the Bowden tube and not seen at the extruder is fine. I personally run 2.5&amp;nbsp;mm retraction on an E3Dv6 Bowden system without any issues. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="298" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-05-01T09:07:18.267" LastActivityDate="2019-05-01T09:07:18.267" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="896" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="894" CreationDate="2016-03-30T06:10:05.103" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;As pointed out by &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.matterhackers.com/articles/retraction-just-say-no-to-oozing&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;this article&lt;/a&gt;, you can try to:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Increase your speed for travel moves&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Increase retraction length&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Place objects strategically during print&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;1. Calibrating travel speed&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When calibrating travel speed, you can work with:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Maximum travel speed&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Acceleration&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Jerk&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Z-hop/lift *&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found this &lt;a href=&quot;http://prusaprinters.org/calculator/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;acceleration calculator&lt;/a&gt; (by RepRap Central) and &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7HsIZuj9vOs&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;video&lt;/a&gt; (by Thomas Sanladerer) very useful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*' &lt;em&gt;when moving at high speed, your stepper motors are more susceptible to getting de-tracked by nozzle collision from imperfections during print. If this becomes an issue, consider increasing your z-lift setting.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;2. Adjusting retraction&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can be fairly certain that your filament will clog if it actually retracts past those 2mm recommended by E3D at the hot end. However - as pointed out about by Ryan - bowden retraction is based on &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hysteresis&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;hysteresis&lt;/a&gt;, meaning that that the actual retraction distance at the hot end is &lt;em&gt;lagging behind&lt;/em&gt; the distance retracted at the cold end.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have been battling this exact issue on my 30cm bowden tube E3D V6 setup recently, and currently use a fairly conservative ~2mm retraction. I am still getting occasional clogs while printing PETG.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;3. Distance between objects&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.matterhackers.com/articles/retraction-just-say-no-to-oozing&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;article&lt;/a&gt; linked at the top: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The faster you’re able to move to the next print position, the less time there is for filament to ooze from the hot end&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As such, the distance between the printed objects will change the characteristics of the stringing:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xsmW1.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xsmW1.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Effect of object distance&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="115" LastActivityDate="2016-03-30T06:10:05.103" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="897" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="894" CreationDate="2016-03-30T13:28:47.177" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;In addition to the already excellent answers above, I want to mention that maybe a change in hotend temperature (lower) can also help reducing ooze/stringing. That is, if not other parameters prevent that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="168" LastActivityDate="2016-03-30T13:28:47.177" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="898" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-30T16:45:29.260" Score="5" ViewCount="728" Body="&lt;p&gt;Bad filament with changing diameter causes an uneven flow of plastic out of the nozzle. Besides buying very high quality filament (do we really want to be dependent on professional Filament producers?), what other ideas and methods could be used to mitigate the differences in diameter?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could a pellet extruder be a solution?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="204" LastEditorUserId="204" LastEditDate="2016-03-31T21:38:09.960" LastActivityDate="2016-03-31T21:38:09.960" Title="How to compensate for bad quality filament?" Tags="|extruder|print-quality|filament-quality|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="899" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="903" CreationDate="2016-03-30T18:29:59.650" Score="9" ViewCount="1086" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am encountering a problem with this ID3 printer using ABS -- at some point during the print the print head displaces on the y-axis by 2-3 centimeters. I cannot pinpoint how or why it is doing this. It has displaced in the positive Y direction and in the negative Y direction on separate runs of the same piece (which is just a poker chip I found on Thingiverse). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this a software issue (Simplify3D) or a hardware issue? Can anybody suggest a fix?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See the following photos:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/b9Kyv.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/b9Kyv.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;3D print exhibiting positive Y displacement mid-print&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1yH40.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1yH40.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Close up of 3D print exhibiting positive Y displacement mid-print&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="981" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2016-11-25T07:53:07.893" LastActivityDate="2016-11-25T12:23:39.053" Title="Why is my print displacing along the y-axis by 2-3 cm?" Tags="|abs|print-quality|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="900" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="899" CreationDate="2016-03-30T19:54:52.370" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It seems unlikely this is a software or G-code issue, instead it appears your Y-motor is occasionally missing some steps. There are two possible causes for this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The current limit for the stepper driver is set too low, limiting the amount of torque the motor can generate. When the printhead encounters some resistance (for instance due to running into a blob on your model) the motor skips steps, resulting in a displaced model.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The current limit for the stepper driver is set too high. The stepper driver will overheat and thermal protection will shut it down temporarily. Some steps are lost while it is shut down.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are various ways to calculate the ideal current for a motor and set it using a multimeter, but a simpler approach is to turn it way down, and then slowly turn it up. Turn it up just beyond the point where the axis moves reliably.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastActivityDate="2016-03-30T19:54:52.370" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="901" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="899" CreationDate="2016-03-30T20:49:44.560" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;This has happened to me in the past and here are a few things that I determined could have been the cause:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Limit Switch triggered. My coworker was able to repeat the issue by manually triggering a limit switch during the print. Somehow, this seemed to cause the relative axis to shift on his MakerBot Replicator 2.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Skipped steps. It's possible that, if stalled due to excessive load, the stepper motor could skip steps. I have a dual extruder, so if a part curls really bad then the second nozzle gets caught in the print. I'm not sure exactly how this works, but my coworker suggested this as an issue.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;USB connection. I had sliced a model and tried printing over USB connection, however each time I attempted the print I encountered the &quot;shift&quot; at the same exact location. However, using the slice, I exported a G-Code file and printed from the machines SD card with no errors.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Slicing Engine bug. This is in correlation to the &lt;em&gt;USB connection&lt;/em&gt; issue. I noticed that the issue occurred after updating my slicing engine. My solution in the long term was to re-install the previous version that was stable for me. I was using MakerWare 2.4.2 and reverted back to MakerWare 2.4.1.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're printing via USB connection, I'd suggest exporting to G-Code if you're able to print via SD Card until you can find a stable version of software for your machine. This has been the most repeatable solution for me in the past.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="98" LastActivityDate="2016-03-30T20:49:44.560" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="902" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="789" CreationDate="2016-03-31T04:36:48.727" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;What 3D printing or additive manufacturing is good for is printing &lt;em&gt;small and delicate stuffs&lt;/em&gt;. examples: scaffolds, tissues, human organ. i've seen some people use 3D printing to print bone or a part of it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, it's good for fast prototyping, especially you don't want to wait for the machine shop forever. that's where 3D printing comes in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is not good about 3D printing is the piece cannot withstand normal force/stress as compared to regular casting/manufacturing ways. 3D printed work piece are easy to break compared to other methods. no matter what alloys/plastic ink you use, there is always something better. 3D printing don't give the best. as such, manufacturing still relies on old methods.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;let's review the pros and cons of regular manufacturing (mfg) and 3D printing:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;regular mfg: &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;+cost: design mold, more time/money investment to make equipment &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;+profit: faster+cheaper (in term of $/product) for mass production &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;3D printing &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;+cost: cheaper machine (usually but not always, depending on the input materials, could be alloys, plastics, etc.), laser type (diff commercial printers use diff laser)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;+profit: cut time to make equipments because it's ready avail, more expensive but also more control so each of these methods have their goods and bads. personally i think it's usually worse than better compared to regular mfg so it doesn't make much sense to me. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So in my opinion, &lt;strong&gt;no&lt;/strong&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1103" LastEditorUserId="1103" LastEditDate="2016-03-31T19:51:41.957" LastActivityDate="2016-03-31T19:51:41.957" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="903" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="899" CreationDate="2016-03-31T05:50:54.847" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had exactly the same effect when my stepsticks where overheated.&#xA;So my solution was to add cooling fan and reduce current on stepsticks.&#xA;Of course heatsink is obvious.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please note that different axis requires different current settings.&#xA;For example, in Prusa and clones, X and Y need a bit less current as one stepstick controls one motor but Z axis usually uses 2 motors connected to 1 driver.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1211" LastActivityDate="2016-03-31T05:50:54.847" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="904" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="906" CreationDate="2016-03-31T07:14:05.890" Score="8" ViewCount="2988" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a HE3D prusa XI3 printer with an MK8 extruder. While printing or testing, the extruder makes a clicking noise as if the filament isnt getting hot enough to extrude. I began my investigation and read about many reasons why this could be happening. Eliminating most of them, I finally took off the fan on the extruder and looked at it while it was trying to extrude. I noticed the teflon tubing and tried to push it back into the throat. Then the extruder worked fine. I put everything back together and began testing again. The clicking came back,  - I then took the fan and heatsink back off and there it was again. Pushing back down and this time extruding some material and noticing the tubing slowly coming up. Is there anyway to fix this without upgrading to a better hot end?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1075" LastEditorUserId="804" LastEditDate="2016-03-31T22:23:08.213" LastActivityDate="2016-03-31T22:23:08.213" Title="Teflon tubing in nozzle throat coming out?" Tags="|extruder|prusa-i3|hotend|nozzle|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="905" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="880" CreationDate="2016-03-31T07:25:13.250" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I agree with Tom about looseness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would suggest 2 solutions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use grease which will reduce friction (and vibrations as a consequence); &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use better clutch (coupling). Full aluminium couplings are prone to conduct noise (vibrations) from the threaded rod. You can use Oldham coupling with a plastic floating member. This will definitely reduce noise on Z axis.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course you are encouraged to use both solutions :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1211" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-11-10T02:17:17.607" LastActivityDate="2018-11-10T02:17:17.607" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="906" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="904" CreationDate="2016-03-31T07:39:24.487" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;It looks like you got too tight nozzle, too cold hotend or extruding speed is too high (all could be in the same time of course).&#xA;As filament goes into the teflon tube (coldend) and then into hotend it doesn't have enough time to go out throught the nozzle. So it causes that melted filament accumulates in hotend and pushes out teflon tube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check application and arduino settings for &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;nozzle diameter (increase it), check if it's not plugged with something inside&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;hotend temperature (increase it), check for your filament settings&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;extrude ratio (decrease it), check also gearing on extruder motor&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1211" LastActivityDate="2016-03-31T07:39:24.487" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="907" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="926" CreationDate="2016-03-31T07:51:04.263" Score="5" ViewCount="422" Body="&lt;p&gt;Recently, the ticking sounds started to come from feeder of my UM2. Inspecting it I have noticed that once in a while stepper motor jumps back for few steps. I have an idea of what can be the reason, but I just want to hear what you can think of. That is the video of feeder during the printing :)&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/z6CzudMOeD0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://youtu.be/z6CzudMOeD0&lt;/a&gt; First tick at 10sec&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="787" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2019-08-31T08:27:00.720" LastActivityDate="2019-08-31T08:27:00.720" Title="Ultimaker 2 ticking sound coming from feeder" Tags="|stepper|ultimaker-2|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="909" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="898" CreationDate="2016-03-31T08:08:19.580" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am only going to answer the part of the question about how to improve the results from low-quality filament:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There have already been projects going on dealing with the issue of varying filament diameter. A sensor that detects the filament's diameter and sends its value to the printers firmware can compensate for the varying volume of the filament pushed into the hotend by simply changing the extrusion speed. You could think of an extrusion multiplier or a change in the steps/mm value. Of course this has to be calibrated for the distance the filament needs to travel from measurement to hotend.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A good first read can be found in the following project:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?13,222517&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?13,222517&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And the corresponding Thing page:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:454584&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:454584&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="168" LastActivityDate="2016-03-31T08:08:19.580" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="910" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="907" CreationDate="2016-03-31T10:24:22.993" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had the same issue. It can happen for number of reasons.&#xA;One of them is too low print temperature as stepper cant push the filament through. Also you could have partially blocked nozzle or if you print with PLA and have left it out for a while its diameter can enlarge and get stuck in the bowden tube. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="508" LastActivityDate="2016-03-31T10:24:22.993" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="911" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="771" CreationDate="2016-03-31T12:25:45.943" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Come on. Wider clips will just survive a bit longer.&#xA;The real cause is the orientation (plane) of printing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Continues filament layer will always be more durable than few layers sticked together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the question is why not to change printing plane?&#xA;You can use better design which utilizes support without using &quot;support material&quot;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Gv3zu.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Gv3zu.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1211" LastActivityDate="2016-03-31T12:25:45.943" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="912" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="907" CreationDate="2016-03-31T13:12:38.390" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ultimately, your stepper motor is unsuccessful in driving the filament through the extruder. A couple potential reasons:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;extruder temperature isn't high enough. This could either be operator error from not setting the temperature correctly or your machine is getting a false reading. Typically, for ABS/PLA, you can get away with a low extruding temperature of about 210c.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;filament tension is too high. This happens if, say, your spool of filament gets kinked or wrapped around the spool spindle.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;your nozzle is clogged. I've encountered where I had back flow coming out of the nozzle (filaments oozed around from the hotend at the threads). This was a result of not putting the hotend back together correctly. There was a enough hardened plastic backed up in the hotend that when I threaded the nozzle back on, it technically didn't fit back on all the way.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="98" LastActivityDate="2016-03-31T13:12:38.390" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="913" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="916" CreationDate="2016-03-31T15:23:27.067" Score="8" ViewCount="3816" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm wondering if anyone has any experience with Makerbot smart extruders and knows whether or not the nozzle size can be changed. I'm trying to figure out if I can use different nozzle diameters (0.25mm, 0.5mm, 0.8mm, etc.). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Makerbot doesn't sell any replacement nozzles on their site, so I suppose I'm just trying to figure out if the nozzles on the makerbot use the same diameter/thread pitch as other nozzles, like the ones from &lt;a href=&quot;http://e3d-online.com/Extra-Nozzles/Nozzle-Pack-1.75mm&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;E3D&lt;/a&gt; or if I'd have to mill my own, which is way more trouble than it's worth. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any research on the subject is pretty sparse, and the best resource I found is a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.makerbot.com/blog/2011/04/06/upgrade-your-bot-with-the-new-makerbot-mk6-nozzles&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;blog post from 2011&lt;/a&gt; when they still allowed their customers to do such things themselves. I've searched around their Google Group but got nowhere. Beside that, there isn't really any information from the last three years or so on the Makerbot machines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1106" LastActivityDate="2016-10-24T18:52:13.813" Title="Are Makerbot Smart Extruder nozzles swappable?" Tags="|makerbot|nozzle|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="916" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="913" CreationDate="2016-04-01T20:07:34.413" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, you can change the nozzles with the 5th gen line printers, although it's not recommended or supported by Makerbot. You're on your own if something goes wrong with an aftermarket nozzle. Here's a swap video from Fargo3D: &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/vL80bslk9vw&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://youtu.be/vL80bslk9vw&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would recommend &quot;mk8&quot; Makerbot Replicator 1/2/2x style nozzles, since these will be similar dimensions to the original nozzle. Ebay has lots of cheap ones, or &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.p3-d.com/collections/duraplat-3d-extruder-nozzles&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;P3-d&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.micro-swiss.com/#!3d-printing/c843&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Micro Swiss&lt;/a&gt; are popular options for premium Makerbot mk8 style nozzles. But you &lt;em&gt;should&lt;/em&gt; be able to use any standard M6 male thread, ~2mm ID nozzle (such as from E3D, because the Smart Extruder Z homing routine will compensate for nozzle length. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you change the nozzle, you're also going to need to change the slicer settings. Do not use default settings with a different nozzle. Smaller nozzles will require significantly lower print speeds, and larger nozzles will require wider extrusion width. You can create a custom profile in Makerbot Desktop to do this, or use a 5th-gen-compatible slicer like Simplify3D. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="298" LastActivityDate="2016-04-01T20:07:34.413" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="917" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="928" CreationDate="2016-04-01T23:18:49.420" Score="6" ViewCount="489" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm writing a paper about a plotter (I use a Prusa i3 with a custom &quot;extruder&quot; aka pen). And I'm supposed to write about the algorithms I/the plotter use(s). I tried reverse engineering, but since I'm not very experienced with this technique I wasn't successful. &#xA;So I'm looking for &lt;strong&gt;the algorithm that &lt;a href=&quot;http://reprap.org/wiki/Marlin&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Marlin&lt;/a&gt; uses for its G2/G3 commands&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1233" LastEditorUserId="1333" LastEditDate="2016-05-27T03:53:00.277" LastActivityDate="2016-05-27T03:53:00.277" Title="Which algorithm does Marlin use to create arcs?" Tags="|prusa-i3|reprap|g-code|algorithm|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="921" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-02T05:40:12.457" Score="3" ViewCount="433" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a HE3D Prusa XI3 Specs are linked &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.3dprintersonlinestore.com/reprap-prusa-xi3&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;. Its came with a MK8 Extruder, and  I ordered the 0.3mm nozzle with it. I have Repetier v.91 loaded onto the printer right now, and Repetier-Host v1.5.4 on my computer. I have been able to print the test object that came on the SD with ok quality but when I switch to using the computer it just doesn't work at all. It starts up and heats the bed and extruder then zeros out the axis. After coming to temp which I set to 192c for the PLA plastic and bed temp of 60-65c it tries to print. Now comes my problem. It acts as if not enough plastic is being extruded. It doesn't even get the first layer down then when the second layer comes up I notice that there is plastic balling up at the end of the nozzle. So I decided that I should must with the settings in Repetier-Host to see what I could come up with. In printer settings I got everything set up besides the Max Volume Per Sec. How do I figure this number out? I also messed with the settings in slic3r to see if that helped but I didn't notice any difference. I am also using 1.75mm PLA If that might be needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1075" LastEditorUserId="168" LastEditDate="2016-06-13T17:08:00.493" LastActivityDate="2016-07-13T17:52:47.217" Title="Prusa XI3 not printing correctly with Repetier Host" Tags="|software|prusa-i3|firmware|repetier|repetier-host|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="926" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="907" CreationDate="2016-04-02T17:26:13.620" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;So, problem was too low printing temperature. It was 200c. For PLA I have it was too low. Now I'm confused, for PLA the temperature range for printing is given from 180-210 (It is even written on particular coil). Does it mean that even printing in this range I should adjust temperature for each of plastics I have?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Update: I have researched a bit about phenomena I had. According to RepRap wiki &lt;a href=&quot;http://reprap.org/wiki/Hot_End_Design_Theory&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://reprap.org/wiki/Hot_End_Design_Theory&lt;/a&gt; the flow of material dependent on many parameters, starting with softening point of plastic and ending with environmental conditions. I can conclude that in my conditions temperature of 200c did't give enough material flow (but feeder still tried to push it as much as it required). And ticking was one of indicators of it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="787" LastEditorUserId="787" LastEditDate="2016-04-02T17:46:38.703" LastActivityDate="2016-04-02T17:46:38.703" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="927" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-02T20:38:22.613" Score="5" ViewCount="651" Body="&lt;p&gt;What are the steps in the production process that factories that produce filament have to take to get from pellets to a full spool of filament.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which of these steps are critical for quality (thickness, roundness, long shelf life,..) ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="204" LastActivityDate="2016-09-28T05:17:49.593" Title="How does the Filament production process work?" Tags="|filament-production|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="928" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="917" CreationDate="2016-04-03T15:58:49.787" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The algorithm is based on the &quot;Vector rotation by transformation matrix&quot;, and this solution is based on a solution from Jens Geisler. The formula for clockwise rotation is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hJGvP.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hJGvP.png&quot; alt=&quot;Vector rotation&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More information about the vector rotation can be found &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rotation_matrix&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Wikipedia&quot;&gt;on Wikipedia&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1233" LastEditorUserId="1333" LastEditDate="2016-05-27T03:52:47.447" LastActivityDate="2016-05-27T03:52:47.447" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="929" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="930" CreationDate="2016-04-03T18:12:34.253" Score="2" ViewCount="110" Body="&lt;p&gt;new to 3D printers and to this community :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would a 1/4&quot; brass rod with bronze bunting bearings for sliders and SAE 30 oil suffice for X and Y axes with moving extruder instead of print surface?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm gathering cheap/scavenged materials for a first time build, as a learning experience, and it doesn't need to work very long. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I just have no idea yet how heavy the extruders are, generally. I'm thinking of threading the rod so I can pull it tight for straightness under load.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1253" LastActivityDate="2016-04-03T18:53:51.663" Title="Brass rails, bunting bearings ok for x,y axes?" Tags="|extruder|y-axis|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="930" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="929" CreationDate="2016-04-03T18:53:51.663" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Extruders tend to be quite light. An E3Dv6 complete with fan, shroud and wires is under 100g. Unless you use a Bowden extruder, you also have to add ~300g for a stepper motor. In any case, it will be quite light.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sintered bronze bushings can definitely be used in a 3D printer; they're used in the (quite popular) Ultimaker 3D printers. I can't tell whether your particular bushings will work well, but I think the most important consideration is that there isn't too much play between the rod and bushing (but I'm assuming you took care of that). 3D printers don't place high loads onto the motion system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;Proper&quot; LMxUU bearings aren't very expensive either (reasonable ones can be had for less than $2) so if the bushings don't work out, you could always try those.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastActivityDate="2016-04-03T18:53:51.663" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="931" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="932" CreationDate="2016-04-03T19:47:40.877" Score="8" ViewCount="10337" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a long 8&amp;nbsp;mm smooth steel rod of about 55&amp;nbsp;cm long. This rods bend easily due to the length. If I replace them with 8mm solid carbon fiber rods, will the bending reduce? Will the bearings wear off the carbon fiber rod? I couldn't find too much information about this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="554" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-04-22T05:06:04.953" LastActivityDate="2019-04-22T05:08:31.563" Title="Carbon fiber instead of smooth steel rods?" Tags="|printer-building|carbon|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="932" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="931" CreationDate="2016-04-03T20:14:30.277" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;Steel is the best material for a linear rod when you have a fixed cross-section. It will have the least flex of any rod (aside from some exotic metals) of the same size. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Carbon fiber's material properties might seem superior at first sight, but the stiffness is very anisotropic -- it's very stiff along the grain and not very stiff across the grain. So multi-axis stresses like bending aren't necessarily going to perform up to the theoretical specs. Carbon fiber has exceptional stiffness-to-weight ratio, but the stiffness-per-area isn't necessarily superior in this application. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;People do occasionally use carbon fiber for linear rods/rails, but only in much larger sizes than 8&amp;nbsp;mm. Think &gt;25&amp;nbsp;mm. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And that's really the problem here. 8&amp;nbsp;mm diameter at 550&amp;nbsp;mm long is well outside what's reasonable for bending stiffness. Bending deflection increases with the CUBE of length, and this is simply far too long for the size of rod. The general rule of thumb for precision motion applications is length &amp;lt; 25*diameter. That's a conservative rule, but it's the right ballpark. You really shouldn't be going over 200-250&amp;nbsp;mm or so with an 8&amp;nbsp;mm rod. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="298" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-04-22T05:08:31.563" LastActivityDate="2019-04-22T05:08:31.563" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="933" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="927" CreationDate="2016-04-04T09:43:37.427" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Each step is critical for quality. It's refined plastic mass. And in oil-based-products, every step is crucial for quality.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In &lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=1&amp;amp;v=OEkksADFjP8&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; vieo, everything is explained.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="334" LastActivityDate="2016-04-04T09:43:37.427" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="934" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="253" CreationDate="2016-04-05T05:10:30.250" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Simply put, PLA and ABS should not be mixed into a filament.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The most common issues most printers experience, such as delayering, warping, etc., are addressed completely differently based on the material you are working with. There are many examples of this, and I will attempt to go over some of the basic ones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will have extreme difficulty getting proper layer adhesion. Assuming you have a level, flat, semi-coarse (helps) surface for the first layer, the recommended heated bed temperature is 70C for PLA. With ABS, you will experience warping by the 5th layer at that temperature. ABS prefers 110C for a heated bed, and 80C for a heated chamber (personal experience for most reliable results).&#xA;Next issue is going to be delayering and stringing. There is no happy medium! Matter of fact, the number of issues even attempting this is almost too many to list. The quality will be complete garbage. On one hand you will have delayering, warping, and jamming of the ABS when set to PLA specs, and stringing, leaking, etc., when set to ABS specs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope this helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1266" LastActivityDate="2016-04-05T05:10:30.250" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="936" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="945" CreationDate="2016-04-05T08:00:56.557" Score="4" ViewCount="2821" Body="&lt;p&gt;My printer will feature LM8UU bearings/threaded rods for the z-axis and bronze sinter bushings on the x- and y-Axis.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As also, but not only, written here &lt;a href=&quot;http://reprap.org/wiki/Lubrication&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://reprap.org/wiki/Lubrication&lt;/a&gt;, I know that one should:&lt;br&gt;&#xA; - use machine oil for sinter bearings, if anything at all,&lt;br&gt;&#xA; - grease on the 'more fluid' side for the linear bearings so that the lubricant stays eqally with balls on the upper and lower side&lt;br&gt;&#xA; - and probably PTFE grease for the threaded rods (as for example provided by the Ultimaker UM2)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a way to unify this or at least only use two lubricants?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I do not have the slightest idea about lubricants, I would not know what to actually buy if the combination would e.g. be machine oil and low viscosity grease. Do you have specific recommendations of what to avoid?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="168" LastActivityDate="2020-11-25T19:58:28.287" Title="Is there a lubricant that can be used for linear bearings, bronze sinter bushings and threaded rods alike?" Tags="|reprap|life-expectancy|mechanics|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="937" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="939" CreationDate="2016-04-05T16:25:04.363" Score="6" ViewCount="383" Body="&lt;p&gt;I began printing the parts for the Ultrascope DIY telescope designed by the Open Space Agency.  See &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.openspaceagency.com/ultrascope&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.openspaceagency.com/ultrascope&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All of the STL files for the 3D printable parts are canted 45 degrees.  Brackets, tubes, everything I have seen so far.  Is there a reason for this?  I printed one part last night and simply rotated the part so it would lay flat because I didn't want to deal with supports.  I am relatively new to 3D printing -- Am I missing something I should know?  Is this a thing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="768" LastActivityDate="2022-05-22T03:06:09.067" Title="Why are the STL files for the Ultrascope telescope at 45 degree angle?" Tags="|3d-design|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="938" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-05T19:09:43.360" Score="9" ViewCount="17300" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm having a lot of trouble printing polypropylene right now, and I think it may have to do with the conditions. I'm using a very thin coat of ABS on the base plate (just as you would do when printing with ABS) in order to promote sticking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this following first picture, I attempted with a 240°C tip and a 150°C bed (above PP's Tg). Oddly enough, one side actually looked somewhat decent while the other clearly had trouble sticking. The print speed on this was 1500 mm/min.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the second picture, I was printing with the tip at 220°C and a 50°C bed. What's interesting in that print (you may be able to see it) is that the polymer extruded with little blips of material followed by a more stringy section, rather than a steady, even filament. (Print speed on this was 2100 mm/min)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KCbye.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;240°C tip and a 150°C bed&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KCbye.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;240°C tip and a 150°C bed&quot; title=&quot;240°C tip and a 150°C bed&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IaF8Z.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;220°C tip and a 50°C bed&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IaF8Z.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;220°C tip and a 50°C bed&quot; title=&quot;220°C tip and a 50°C bed&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone have suggestions for doing better prints with PP? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="981" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-07-04T09:41:45.707" LastActivityDate="2018-07-04T09:41:45.707" Title="What are the ideal print conditions for polypropylene?" Tags="|print-quality|print-preparation|print-material|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="939" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="937" CreationDate="2016-04-05T20:18:02.190" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The orientation of the part in the STL file depends on the Software that creates the file. I had a software that would export the parts standing upright instead of laying flat. Depending on the CAD software it can be beneficial for the creator of the model to create in in a different orientation as the one you want to use for printing. Also not all CAD Engineers know (or care) about the best orientation for printing a part.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So my guess is that this is an issue of file export/ STL file creation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is totally normal to rotate the parts into a position that is best for printing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="204" LastActivityDate="2016-04-05T20:18:02.190" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="940" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="938" CreationDate="2016-04-06T04:40:40.520" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;First picture clearly shows that temperature was too hight, second one suggests too small extruding speed (too little) which is connected to your printing speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;35mm/s is quite slow :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1211" LastEditorUserId="1211" LastEditDate="2016-04-06T11:38:28.163" LastActivityDate="2016-04-06T11:38:28.163" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="941" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="943" CreationDate="2016-04-06T13:09:23.440" Score="4" ViewCount="1029" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an idea for a 3D printed project, but I'm a total noob in this area and need someone to reality check it for me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically what I want to do is a tricopter frame made of a &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tetragonal_disphenoid_honeycomb&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;tetrahedral honeycomb&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The whole model would be within 30 * 30 * 10 cm, the honeycomb edges would be approximately 1mm thick and about 15mm long and it would be printed out of nylon with SLS.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have found Shapeways' design guidelines and my idea seems to fit it, but still it feels slightly more extreme use than what they had in mind.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this doable? Does anyone else use a similar method? Is there some software that I can use to generate honeycombs like this, or do I have to write it myself?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is how two layers of the honeycomb look like:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ttIZ6.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ttIZ6.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;honeycomb&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the actual model there would be several layer of this on top of each other and the shape would be kind of carved out of the honeycomb (+ some finishing to avoid spiky surface)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1286" LastEditorUserId="1286" LastEditDate="2016-04-06T20:41:23.557" LastActivityDate="2016-04-09T04:41:35.887" Title="Tetrahedral honeycomb?" Tags="|sls|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="942" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="941" CreationDate="2016-04-06T14:12:47.403" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In short, I don't think printing the full tetrahedral honeycomb design is a good approach considering the application of the part. Here are few things to note when attempting to 3D print the tetrahedral honeycomb:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wouldn't recommend trying to 3D print this with a an FDM/FFF printer as you will most likely need supports and there would not be enough strength laterally. You may be able to &lt;em&gt;print&lt;/em&gt; the design using SLA, but handling would be very difficult before post-processing as the part is very brittle post-print until a heat treat or curing process is done to chemically solidify. The post-process of the SLA could determine how strong the part is (ie. stainless steel powder, infused with bronze in a heat treat process would be good for such a part).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While SLS may be the best method for 3D printing this type of design, for that size part (30x30x10cm) you're looking at an expensive print regardless of whether or not you print it yourself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Instead, I would highly recommend finding (or designing your own) a joint connector that would allow you to join wood/plastic dowels in the tetrahedral honeycomb shape. Not only will this be cheaper for you in the long run (easier to replace a few broken segments than an entire 3D printed model), but it could provide more structural strength for something that could potentially get banged around, like a tricopter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:176263&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this model&lt;/a&gt; on Thingiverse (not my model) shows an example of how you can utilize 3D printing complex or custom joints that allow you to connect dowels in the shape you're looking for. It'd kind of be like building with &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/search?q=k&amp;#39;nex&amp;amp;hl=en&amp;amp;biw=1920&amp;amp;bih=918&amp;amp;site=webhp&amp;amp;source=lnms&amp;amp;tbm=isch&amp;amp;sa=X&amp;amp;ved=0ahUKEwjurNmd2fzLAhVL1mMKHZ9RA44Q_AUIBygC&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;K'Nex&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as designing said joint, you could model a single &quot;inner&quot; joint that has 18 connectors (8 on XY plane, 6 on YZ plane, and 4 on XZ plane). Below is a crude example of what I mean drawn in Google SketchUp:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dlTMG.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dlTMG.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="98" LastEditorUserId="98" LastEditDate="2016-04-07T14:35:06.140" LastActivityDate="2016-04-07T14:35:06.140" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="943" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="941" CreationDate="2016-04-06T16:48:30.530" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;For designing your part, especially considering the repetitive mathematics involved, I would consider to learn to use OpenSCAD. I've learned the program and it fits your modeling requirement quite well. I feel it's easy to learn and is somewhat easier for folks who have a programming background. I don't have one, but it's still a logical progression to learn this program.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regarding the SLS aspect, that also jumped out at me as a suitable answer. Solid shapes require to have &quot;drain holes&quot; to reduce the amount of powder consumed by the process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am assembling a Sintratec SLS printer and your model is the sort of thing I would enjoy to create with the printer. I've not yet listed my Sintratec printer on 3dhubs to solicit business, simply because it's not yet a fully assembled printer!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did a quick Google search for &quot;openscad tetrahedral honeycomb&quot; and found this link:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://forum.openscad.org/Beginner-Honeycomb-advice-needed-td4556.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://forum.openscad.org/Beginner-Honeycomb-advice-needed-td4556.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The result is more a polygonal honeycomb, not a true 3d tetrahedron, but it's a start. The file that created it is fewer than a few dozen lines of code.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The post is old  enough that the internal links no longer work but the OP posted his module code and that does work:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rO5Je.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rO5Je.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure how personal contact works in stackexchange, but I'd be willing to work with you regarding creating your code and if the printer ever gets assembled, printing out your part.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hohRb.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hohRb.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Adding a picture again, to show the latest revision, based on the updated information:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Gna6W.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Gna6W.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastEditorUserId="854" LastEditDate="2016-04-06T23:56:16.710" LastActivityDate="2016-04-06T23:56:16.710" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="944" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="938" CreationDate="2016-04-06T19:03:40.017" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Polypropylene is a bear to print. There's a good reason almost nobody does it. The main problem is that it's a semi-crystalline material, which means it doesn't follow the normal rules for warping prevention.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An amorphous polymer like ABS or PET is able to slowly flow or creep until it cools below the glass point, Tg. This means the stresses caused by thermal contraction will &quot;shake out&quot; above Tg and only start accumulating when the print cools below Tg and fully solidifies. That's why heated build plates are usually set around the glass point for amorphous materials -- there's minimal warping stress in the print at that temp.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, when you extrude semi-crystalline polymers like PE or PP, crystallization starts as soon as the temp drops below the melt point, Tm. A crystalline polymer will not flow or creep at a rate that is meaningful over the duration of an FDM print, so thermal contraction stresses will simply build up more and more as the plastic is cooled farther below Tm. And there's a loooong way to go when cooling from Tm to room temp. As a result, you get HUGE warping stresses with these plastics compared to more typical FDM materials. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;It is simply not possible to pick a heated bed or heated chamber temp that entirely eliminates the tendency of PP to warp. The normal rules we use for amorphous polymers don't apply. And, greatly compounding the problem, PP is a very low-surface-energy material with adhesion behavior fairly similar to wax. It doesn't want to stick to much of anything except itself.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;High warping stress + poor adhesion = bad times. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, the simple answer is, polypropylene does not have the correct polymer behavior to be favorable for FDM. You will always be fighting warping. Think carefully about whether you want to struggle with PP or switch to a more suitable material that could accomplish the same design goal for the printed part. Do you really need to use PP? PET blends have similar hardness and chemical resistance, nylon blends have similar toughness, and TPUs can handle living hinge applications. That covers most of the reasons you'd want to use PP.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you absolutely must use PP, you're going to need to pull out ALL the tricks people use with traditional high-warp materials like ABS and PC and nylon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use a build plate made of a close relative of the material you're printing. For example, people have successfully printed HDPE on a PP build plate, so I would imagine that a HDPE build plate should work for PP. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Or, use a perfboard build plate with a raft so the initial layer will get embedded into the holes.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Or, use a coarse fibrous surface like stiff cardboard or fiberboard.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Get the build chamber enclosed and as hot as you can without damaging the printer. 50C is usually reasonable for motors, extruders, etc unless you have PLA printed parts to worry about. (Heated build plates only really help with the bottom 5-10mm of the print if the printer is not enclosed.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use helper disks / mouse ears on corners.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Really mash the first layer down onto the build plate. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Print low layer heights, like 0.1mm. Smaller layers mean the thermal contraction applies more shear stress between layers, and less of the large-scale aggregate bending stress that lifts corners. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Higher print speeds may also help due to some complex strain-crystallization effects, but that's only currently proven in nylon to my knowledge. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another option, if it meets your functional requirements, is to use a fiberglass or carbon fiber composite PP. CFR and GFR plastics usually warp less than virgin plastics. The fibers have a low coefficient of thermal expansion, which makes the composite material contract less as it cools, which reduces warping stress. The most successful PP printing I've ever seen was GFR-PP. But that stuff is hard to find and may not work if the part needs to be flexible. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="298" LastActivityDate="2016-04-06T19:03:40.017" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="945" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="936" CreationDate="2016-04-06T19:14:12.270" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;A mid-weight PTFE grease like the popular Superlube will work in all the cases you mention (bearings, screws, and sintered bushings). 3D printer service conditions are quite light-duty as far as lubricants are concerned. You really just need to keep everything a little bit &quot;wet&quot; with oil or grease and performance will be adequate. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main downside to using grease with sintered bushings is that they will likely stop being &quot;self-lubricating&quot; after the first exposure. The grease tends to clog the pores that allow the sintered bushings' factory oil impregnation to maintain a nice oil film on the sliding surfaces. So the bushings will forever-after require regular re-greasing, just like the ball bearings and threaded rod. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In comparison, a light machine oil like 3-in-one will maintain the sintered bushings' self-lubricating properties, but if used in ball bearings and screws will require very frequent replenishment. And that is certainly an option -- oil DOES work on bearings and screws -- but odds are good that you'll eventually over-oil the bearings, get drips on the build plate, and bang your head against a wall trying to figure out why your prints won't stick all of a sudden. Grease doesn't need to be applied as often, and it tends to stay where you put it rather than dripping. So grease is generally preferred to oil if you have to pick just one lubricant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Again, the most important thing is to keep sliding and rolling surfaces wet with &lt;em&gt;something&lt;/em&gt;. You'll just have various maintenance trade-offs with different options. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="298" LastActivityDate="2016-04-06T19:14:12.270" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="946" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="967" CreationDate="2016-04-07T17:01:44.793" Score="3" ViewCount="732" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have problems with setting up Marlin for my new printer. Each time I rotate the dial, axis move to the same amount. It doesn't matter how much I moved it, to 1mm or to 20 mm (according to screen), axis move to the same really small step. It happens with all of axis. I tried to change step per unit to much higher value and it still does the same. Maybe you have some ideas guys? :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="787" LastActivityDate="2016-04-11T18:31:31.713" Title="Marlin move axis issue" Tags="|marlin|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="948" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-07T23:30:21.977" Score="3" ViewCount="1255" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can download a file from Tinkercad as any of these:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;.STL&#xA;.OBJ&#xA;.X3D&#xA;.VRML&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a way to convert any of those file types to .DWG?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1307" LastActivityDate="2019-09-20T01:17:25.420" Title="Is there a way to convert a file to .dwg?" Tags="|file-formats|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="949" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="948" CreationDate="2016-04-08T00:21:45.963" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found this site and tested it a moment ago. I uploaded a simple .STL file (crystal) and had to register as a user (free, unremarkable) in order to perform the conversion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cadforum.cz/catalog_en/stl2dwg.asp&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.cadforum.cz/catalog_en/stl2dwg.asp&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The downloaded file was in .DWG format and opened without a problem in AutoCAD 2013 as a 3d object.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note the placement of the pivot point in Meshmixer (first image) and the corresponding location in AutoCAD.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lOxeD.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lOxeD.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MjUrz.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MjUrz.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastEditorUserId="854" LastEditDate="2016-04-08T00:27:37.123" LastActivityDate="2016-04-08T00:27:37.123" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="950" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-08T08:13:23.270" Score="3" ViewCount="73" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am new to 3D printing and have read there is a fair bit of knowledge required to use the right product for printing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In search for a good quality brand to start with, what is the most used filament based on sale volume worldwide?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1312" LastEditorUserId="115" LastEditDate="2016-04-13T11:53:49.250" LastActivityDate="2016-04-13T11:53:49.250" Title="What brand of 3D printing materials is the most famous/popular?" Tags="|filament|material|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2016-04-10T14:19:18.340" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="951" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="952" CreationDate="2016-04-08T08:23:49.213" Score="4" ViewCount="236" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am new to 3D printing and need to know if I use steel in printing, do I get the same strength (compression and shear) as steel profiles manufactured in a factory?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1312" LastEditorUserId="1312" LastEditDate="2016-04-10T04:06:27.240" LastActivityDate="2016-04-15T14:30:23.067" Title="Strength of 3D printed Objects" Tags="|3d-models|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="952" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="951" CreationDate="2016-04-08T17:37:04.237" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;A laser sintered part typically uses what could be described as surface bonding, as it does not melt particularly deeply into the powder. It would not have the same strength characteristics as machined steel or otherwise processed metal. A part constructed from 3d printing using feed metal/welding methods would have more strength, but would not necessarily have un-modified steel strength, due to the heat applied during the process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using a metal which responds to post processing, as in tempering, will likely improve the strength, but I believe that one is unlikely to reach the same values as &quot;ordinary&quot; steel. Compression along the lines of the construction layers would be reasonably strong, but forces applied in other directions are likely to match only the characteristics of the bond. The same consideration applies to shear strength.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastEditorUserId="1312" LastEditDate="2016-04-10T14:20:21.607" LastActivityDate="2016-04-10T14:20:21.607" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="953" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="956" CreationDate="2016-04-08T19:31:59.540" Score="3" ViewCount="482" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been asked to prepare a 3D model for 3D printing in sandstone. I've been told that it needs to be 3&quot; tall and the walls have to be at least 2&amp;nbsp;mm thick. It's an absolute pain in the neck having to make sure everything is the right thickness. So, I was wondering, can the whole model just be printed as a solid object, with 100% infill, and does that work for sandstone?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="593" LastEditorUserId="1333" LastEditDate="2016-04-10T14:21:02.903" LastActivityDate="2018-09-16T09:43:37.327" Title="Can a sandstone 3D print be printed as a solid object?" Tags="|print-material|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="954" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="941" CreationDate="2016-04-09T04:41:35.887" Score="3" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Is this doable?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It has been done, therefore it is doable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I agree with fred_dot_u that OpenSCAD is a good system for programmatically generating highly repetitive 3d procedural content like this space truss 3d structure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;p.s.: A few links to people 3D printing various space trusses:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:10656&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Parametric Space Truss Platform&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.shapeways.com/product/PYHTDGX6C/smoothed2-octet-truss-flats&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;smoothed2 octet truss flats&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://pinshape.com/items/11870-3d-printed-micro-truss-toy&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Micro Truss Toy&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://str.llnl.gov/Mar12/spadaccini.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Materials by Design&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://bfi.org/dymaxion-forum/2014/07/nano-octet-truss-materials-synthesized&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;&quot;Nano octet truss materials synthesized&quot;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.virtualscience.com/gallery_cad_rp.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;&quot;Computer-Aided Design and Rapid Prototyping&quot;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.shapeways.com/product/CSRJHUHMA/octet-truss-v2&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;&quot;Octet Truss Construction Kit, v2&quot;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.variousconsequences.com/2013/01/octet-truss-memory-time-and-dollar-costs.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;&quot;Octet Truss Memory, Time and Dollar Costs&quot;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.variousconsequences.com/2012/06/3d-printed-isogrid-and-octet-truss.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;&quot;3D Printed Isogrid and Octet Truss&quot;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.virginia.edu/ms/research/wadley/celluar-materials.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;&quot;Ultralight Cellular Materials&quot;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.yeggi.com/q/octet+truss/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;3D printable &quot;octet truss&quot; models&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.stlfinder.com/?search=octet%20truss&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;STL finder &quot;octet truss&quot; models&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="994" LastActivityDate="2016-04-09T04:41:35.887" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="955" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-09T07:53:09.530" Score="1" ViewCount="167" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been asking people about this, not no clue yet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to scan a thing and modify it a little.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example I have an object with 3 parts and&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to change the position of the third part relative to the other 2 parts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example I have a certain object and I want to modify it a little to see&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;how the air flow around them would change.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or I want to scan two similar things and see what's the difference between them&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PRECISELY... is there any way to do this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1323" LastEditorUserId="1323" LastEditDate="2016-04-10T03:53:14.900" LastActivityDate="2016-04-10T03:53:14.900" Title="How can I scan a thing and modify it or scan two things and compare them?" Tags="|scanning|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="956" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="953" CreationDate="2016-04-09T09:27:52.297" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, you can just print it solid. However, it might be significantly more expensive to print your object entirely solid. For instance, Shapeways charges \$0.75 per cm³ of material for their full-color sandstone. A solid cube of 5x5x5 cm would cost \$96 to print, whereas it would only cost around \$6 if you printed it hollow with 2mm walls.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2018-09-16T09:43:37.327" LastActivityDate="2018-09-16T09:43:37.327" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="957" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="958" CreationDate="2016-04-09T10:15:56.380" Score="5" ViewCount="1930" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there a way to make all your prints seamless?? I know there was this program that printed a vase constantly changing the z axis making it seamless. Why cant this be done with regular prints?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="635" LastActivityDate="2016-05-18T04:42:23.910" Title="Seamless prints?" Tags="|prusa-i3|3d-design|slic3r|slicing|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="958" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="957" CreationDate="2016-04-09T10:31:11.080" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you ever seen 3d printouts on your own and you did keep it in hand then you probably felt layers. Most printouts contains 3 main &quot;components&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;bottom and top component (floor and ceiling)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;outline (perimeters)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;infill (inside supporting structure)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is almost imposible (and for sure sensless) to create all these components with one continues line as it would be very complex and sophisticated line.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second reason. It would be very often that printer would cross outlines (perimeters) so it would destroy good looking external surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And third reason. Objects can have &quot;islands&quot;. Imagine printed elephant which is standing on 4 legs. How to draw leg leyers with one line if these legs are separated (at the floor level).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's why &quot;round vase&quot; is the only option to print seamless. :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1211" LastActivityDate="2016-04-09T10:31:11.080" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="959" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-10T01:07:09.980" Score="1" ViewCount="156" Body="&lt;p&gt;What are people's opinions on the most affordable 3D printer with a large print volume, of 200mm x 200mm x 180mm minimum, with a good quality over 100 microns?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1331" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2017-02-14T10:43:32.437" LastActivityDate="2017-02-14T10:43:32.437" Title="Best cheap 3D printer, using FDM, with large print volume?" Tags="|desktop-printer|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="8" ClosedDate="2016-04-11T08:07:32.520" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="960" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="955" CreationDate="2016-04-10T02:39:12.697" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;While I'm not sure what you mean by &lt;em&gt;I want to scan a thing and modify it a little to see its effect.&lt;/em&gt; In general, a 3D scan typically results in a series of raw points. You'll need to convert the 3D point cloud into a Mesh before you can really do any solid modeling with it. Here are a few OpenSource programs that you could potentially use:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://meshlab.sourceforge.net/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;MeshLab&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.blender.org/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Blender&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.danielgm.net/cc/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;CloudCompare&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To compare two scans, you could use the raw data in CloudCompare as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, without knowing what your intended use is, it's difficult to tell how to help you. Please consider updating your response with a bit more of your own research so that we may definitively answer your question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="98" LastActivityDate="2016-04-10T02:39:12.697" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="962" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="963" CreationDate="2016-04-10T10:31:22.693" Score="6" ViewCount="3543" Body="&lt;p&gt;During printing, my printer occasionally makes some mystery moves: it will very slowly move either the X or Y axis all the way to the left/front, before very slowly moving back to its original position and resuming the print as normal. I've checked my G-code files, and the moves are definitely not part of the G-code. What could be causing this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm printing from an SD card on a Cartesian printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastEditorUserId="26" LastEditDate="2016-04-10T14:45:44.707" LastActivityDate="2018-08-19T08:52:48.047" Title="Printer randomly moves to home during printing, then resumes as normal" Tags="|g-code|marlin|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="963" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="962" CreationDate="2016-04-10T20:50:21.837" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The issue was due to a corrupt SD-card, which was occasionally having some garbage read from it. It turns out that Marlin will try interpret a corrupt move command like &lt;code&gt;G0 X1q3.54&lt;/code&gt; and still read as many numbers as it can. In this example, it would be interpreted as &lt;code&gt;G0 X1&lt;/code&gt; rather than (as might have been intended) &lt;code&gt;G0 X103.54&lt;/code&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This explains my symptoms perfectly:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;X and Y always moved to (approximately) their home positions, but it was always only one of them (it's quite unlikely that both moves are corrupted).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Z was not affected because Z moves are much rarer in the G-code (only on layer change) and thus it was very unlikely that a Z move would be affected.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;E was not affected since a request to move E to near 0 would be prevented by Marlin's long extrusion prevention.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastEditorUserId="26" LastEditDate="2018-02-26T21:09:15.713" LastActivityDate="2018-02-26T21:09:15.713" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="964" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2977" CreationDate="2016-04-11T03:30:22.983" Score="8" ViewCount="421" Body="&lt;p&gt;All of Carbon3D's marketing and demonstrations show their CLIP technology producing contiguous and bridge-free parts. Has anyone seen examples of their M1 printing something like a buckyball within a buckyball or a figurine or some other shape that requires support material to print?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, how would the Carbon3D print a shape like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt; vvvvvBUILDPLATEvvvvv&#xA; ====================&#xA;  XXX&#xA;  XXX            BBB &amp;lt;----- columns A and B require support material&#xA;  XXX    AAA     BBB        in order to connect them to the build&#xA;  XXX    AAA     BBB        plate.&#xA;  XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;|~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~|&#xA;|~~~~~~~~RESIN~~~~~~~|&#xA;|~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~|&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In a similar vein, how do they handles enclosed volumes? I doubt anyone wants a sphere filled with still-liquid resin...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Again, I've looked around, I can find no material addressing these questions, so if anyone can shed some light, I'd be glad.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="262" LastActivityDate="2016-11-24T22:37:34.077" Title="How does Carbon3D's CLIP technology handle bridges and support material?" Tags="|support-structures|mechanics|clip|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="966" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-11T16:02:02.677" Score="11" ViewCount="1737" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been going down the learning road with two broken printers that I'm rebuilding with better parts and electronics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One thing that I've recognized is that there is a pretty low likelihood that any hotend or heatbed that has had the thermistor/thermocouple and/or the printer board swapped with a non-OEM part can be trusted to accurately report it's own temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sure, there are lots of things I can (and do) do to try to make it as accurate as reasonable like calibrating with thermistors from multimeters, IR thermometers, etc., but each method has limitations.  You never know if the 2nd thermistor is mounted both correctly, or if it is reading the same local temp as the printer thermistor.  IR thermometers have issues with reflective surfaces (like aluminum hot ends and build plates)  Calibrating the thermistor constants from experimental data isn't perfect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;IMHO, any hotend/heatbed temp on a DIY setup might be off by a constant &amp;plusmn;&amp;nbsp;5&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C or so, more if it is poorly calibrated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Printers use PID controlled heaters to keep oscillations down to a degree or two Celsius, because people say it impacts print quality.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a good visual or experimental way to know whether your temperatures are &quot;correct&quot; for your printer/filament?  IOW, if my filament was supposed to be heated to 220&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C, how would I know if my printer was having issues because the &quot;true&quot; temperature is only 215&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C (or 225&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C) when it is reporting 220&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One common problem I've experienced is the nozzle clogging after the transistion from layer 1 to layer 2.  (Layer 1 = higher heat and slower speeds, Layers 2+ = lower heat and faster speeds.)  It's been a struggle to know which factor (lower heat or faster speeds) are to blame for the clogs after the transition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1349" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-08-30T20:19:31.350" LastActivityDate="2019-08-30T20:20:54.467" Title="Determining the temps and speeds for DIY printers?" Tags="|calibration|speed|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="967" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="946" CreationDate="2016-04-11T18:31:31.713" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Update. Jumpers were inserted to 1/16, but stepper chip I have (9488) could not handle that many micro steps. I changed it to 1/8 and now it works good. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="787" LastActivityDate="2016-04-11T18:31:31.713" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="968" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="966" CreationDate="2016-04-11T20:47:55.313" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It looks like you have to calibrate your thermometer first. The easiest way is to use well known thermistor (preferably in well working printer) and then measure temperatures with your thermometer. This way will give you proper calibration of it. Then you can measure other thermistors with this thermometer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course it requires to keep conditions constant as far as possible. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But to be honest... I don't really feel (or see) if there is a big difference with temperature &amp;plusmn;&amp;nbsp;10&amp;nbsp;°C.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's say my filament has temperatures from 185&amp;nbsp;°C to 225&amp;nbsp;°C and I tell you there is no difference (at least I don't see it) if it's 190&amp;nbsp;°C or 210&amp;nbsp;°C.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course this difference is crucial when you reach min/max temperature but in the middle... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1211" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-08-30T20:20:54.467" LastActivityDate="2019-08-30T20:20:54.467" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="969" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="966" CreationDate="2016-04-11T21:45:51.913" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;The short answer is, you use the temps and speeds that give you good results. It's trial and error. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The temperature number your printer reports really doesn't matter. That's just a process control variable: it needs to be consistent and repeatable, but it doesn't need to be accurate against an independent reference. What you should care about is your print results. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some signs your printing temp is too cold:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;PLA printed parts have a dull, matte surface&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Poor layer adhesion&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Extruder stalls or strips the filament at fairly low printing speeds for your extruder and nozzle size&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some signs your printing temp is too hot:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;PLA printed parts have a very shiny surface&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;PLA has a very strong sugary/waffle smell, or any material smells burnt&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Stringiness during travel moves that you can't eliminate by tuning retraction&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Excessive oozing while the nozzle is stationary off the print&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bubbles or cloudiness in extruded strands in extruded strands even with dry filament&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will also calibrate speeds via trial and error. There are two main speed limits for a printer: how fast the motion mechanism can move the nozzle without running into issues or unacceptable print quality degradation (which is also a function of acceleration settings), and how fast the hot end can heat up and melt filament. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The mechanism speed limits you have to find via trial and error. Pick a test print you like (such as Benchy) and repeat it with different tuning until you find your preferred limits.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Melt flow restrictions are slightly more complex, because they are a function of VOLUME flow rate, not commanded speeds. Make a large boxy test print (with long straight lines) and multiply extrusion width times layer height times feedrate. That will give you your approximate flow rate in mm&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt;/sec. Generally speaking, every extruder + hot end + material combo will have a maximum feasible flow rate. For example, most &quot;average&quot; hobbyist printers with 0.4&amp;nbsp;mm nozzles and good extruders can extrude about 4-8&amp;nbsp;mm&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt;/sec with PLA. PTFE-lined hot ends are at the lower end, all-metal hot ends are at the higher end. The value will depend on your hardware. But you can do a few quick benchmarking tests to find the limit, and then use that to determine peak feedrates to avoid exceeding the melt capacity of your system. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="298" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-08-30T20:15:24.883" LastActivityDate="2019-08-30T20:15:24.883" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="970" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="971" CreationDate="2016-04-12T07:13:43.367" Score="5" ViewCount="3215" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 3D printer that is going crazy with x-axis shift, and I need a tension gauge belt to measure the tension.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've never used one before, and looking online, I can't tell which one would be the right fit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas? What things should I look for?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="74" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2021-10-12T21:30:02.017" LastActivityDate="2024-02-27T19:04:04.697" Title="Which belt tension gauge do I need?" Tags="|hardware|belt|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="971" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="970" CreationDate="2016-04-12T07:45:06.353" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's extremely unlikely that belt tension is actually your problem. I've never heard of anyone using a gauge to measure their belt tension. Typically you just pull your belt tight by hand so that it produces a low note when plucked. It's far more likely that you're experiencing shifts due to too high or too low stepper current.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unless your belt is so loose that it easily skips over the pulley (which should be obvious without using a gauge) or so tight that it completely binds up (it would be impossible to get it that tight without some kind of superhuman force) it's definitely not the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastActivityDate="2016-04-12T07:45:06.353" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="972" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="970" CreationDate="2016-04-12T09:14:42.250" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;People are using this&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zA3d9.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Clothpin springs repurposed into a makeshift belt tensioner&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zA3d9.png&quot; alt=&quot;Clothpin springs repurposed into a makeshift belt tensioner&quot; title=&quot;Clothpin springs repurposed into a makeshift belt tensioner&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;to tighten the belt but I would totally agree with @Tom - there is no need to use such devices or gauges and your problem lies in stepsticks current.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It would be also problem with endstops so PCB doesn't know it's time to stop :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1211" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2024-02-27T19:04:04.697" LastActivityDate="2024-02-27T19:04:04.697" CommentCount="13" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="973" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-12T11:44:22.927" Score="2" ViewCount="114" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've heard of 3D printed ears, limbs, and muscles. I assume if you were to attach one of these ears to a person, it wouldn't have a sense of touch and other properties that a real ear would have. So which properties of real human parts does 3D printing allow and which properties is 3D printing not capable of reproducing using current technology. And how do you predict those technologies will change in the future to further improve 3D printing? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also can someone explain how human cells can be printed? Would this involve some kind of cell-plastic filament? How would the cells survive, etc. Where would you get these cells from and how would you be able to go from using a 3D printer to layer these cells together to then forming an organ out of that?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1360" LastActivityDate="2016-04-12T11:44:22.927" Title="Which properties of real organs do 3D printed organs have?" Tags="|filament|3d-design|quality|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2016-04-12T14:36:59.710" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="974" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2954" CreationDate="2016-04-12T20:56:20.047" Score="2" ViewCount="295" Body="&lt;p&gt;About two years ago I purchased a &lt;a href=&quot;https://bootsindustries.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Boots Industries&lt;/a&gt; v.2.5 3D printer in a delta configuration. The wiki is still up at &lt;a href=&quot;http://wiki.bootsindustries.com/wiki/Getting_started_with_the_BI_V2.5&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this location&lt;/a&gt; where you can see what the printer looked like. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The printer is prone to break and slip because the design uses thin wire to move the carriages up and down. I'd like to convert my printer over to using a belt like the one on &lt;a href=&quot;http://wiki.bootsindustries.com/wiki/Belt_conversion_instruction&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this page&lt;/a&gt;, but the conversion kit is no longer available. I believe I can 3D print the carriages, but would anyone be able to point me toward the resources to convert my printer over to using a toothed belt? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1350" LastActivityDate="2016-10-22T12:42:03.000" Title="Looking for information on modifying Boots Industries 3D printers" Tags="|delta|belt|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="975" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2902" CreationDate="2016-04-13T01:05:20.973" Score="5" ViewCount="3353" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/871/is-22-guage-stranded-hookup-wire-the-correct-wire-to-connect-the-switching-power&quot;&gt;I'm still looking at wires&lt;/a&gt; for my Prusa i3, to go between the power supply and &lt;a href=&quot;http://reprap.org/wiki/RAMPS_1.4&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;RAMPS 1.4&lt;/a&gt;, and &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B007KG0ZYI&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;the power supply&lt;/a&gt; and the &lt;a href=&quot;http://reprap.org/wiki/PCB_Heatbed#MK2.2C_MK2a&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;MK2a Heatbed&lt;/a&gt;.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also recently found a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.harborfreight.com/400-ft-wire-storehouse-61527.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;400 ft. Wire Storehouse&lt;/a&gt; that I bought from Harbor Freight which has wire sizes in it from AWG 10 through AWG 22 (and additionally speaker wire, Zip Cord and Bell).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also bought some reading material, I picked up &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/097929455X&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Wiring Simplified 44th edition&lt;/a&gt;, and in it on page 28, Table 4-1, there is a table with information about the &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ampacity&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Ampacity&lt;/a&gt; of copper wires including their maximum temp (C), and maximum carrying current (Amps) based on their insulation types.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately, the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.harborfreight.com/400-ft-wire-storehouse-61527.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;400 ft. Wire Storehouse&lt;/a&gt; does not provide any information in regards to the insulation type or quality and this makes it difficult for one to choose the correct wire based on the specification in the table.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given that the thing only cost $30 for 400 Ft. of wire, it would lead me to believe that the cheapest grade of insulation was used; as I understand it, the TW type wire.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also read a forum somewhere in which people were complaining about the cheapness of the wire in this kit, stating that one ought to wear gloves when working with it as there is probably lead in the insulation as well as the wire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The largest copper wire I have found in the table that I have (AWG 10) says that it is rated at 30 AMP regardless of which type of insulation it has, should I be using the speakerwire instead?  That isn't listed in the table.  Also it should be noted that though the ratings for the &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ampacity&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Ampacity&lt;/a&gt; are 30 AMPs, the max temperatures are different; with the TW being at 60 C.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as I can tell if I use the AWG 10 (TW?) to connect everything it won't matter, but I just thought I'd check here to be sure first since my power supply is rated at 30 AMPs and that's probably the same as the wire....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T13:00:58.447" LastActivityDate="2022-06-17T18:58:43.883" Title="Do the TW, THW and THHN or THWN wire insulation types matter in terms of powering RAMPS 1.4 or the MK2a Heat Bed?" Tags="|ramps-1.4|switching-power-supply|wire-type|mk2a|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="976" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="953" CreationDate="2016-04-13T02:11:59.953" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;To add to the selected answer, again, yes you can, however making all of the walls AT LEAST 2mm thick shouldn't be too hard, depending on your model and modelling app.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your modelling app doesn't have a good shell function (or if it's too finicky on your model) you could easily define SOME negative space within the larger volumes of your model in order to save costs without having to actually make perfectly consistent wall thicknesses. Just make sure you leave a hole through which the excess material can escape from the interior void.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Shapeways has a good set of guidelines for their full color sandstone prints, which work about the same as any: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.shapeways.com/materials/full-color-sandstone&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.shapeways.com/materials/full-color-sandstone&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;However, you'll want to double check exact measurements with your printing service.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="262" LastActivityDate="2016-04-13T02:11:59.953" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="978" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1000" CreationDate="2016-04-13T07:30:04.903" Score="11" ViewCount="3399" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a really bent heatbed PCB, the middle is elevated about 3 mm with respect to all edges.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have found this thread &lt;a href=&quot;http://midibox.org/forums/topic/17599-warped-pcbs/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Warped PCBs&lt;/a&gt;, where a heating method is applied by baking a PCB in the oven, as described here: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.circuitrework.com/guides/3-2.shtml&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;3.2 Bow and Twist Repair&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can this help straightening out a Prusa heatbed PCB? If so, can I apply the heat by the heatbed itself, or do I need to utilize an oven? Will the pressure from the strongly clamped glass plate be enough or will the glass break at these temperatures (given that the heatbed can reach them).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="168" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2016-11-28T15:46:01.987" LastActivityDate="2018-03-26T10:43:55.217" Title="Can a heatbed PCB (Prusa Mk2) be straightened out?" Tags="|electronics|heated-bed|repair|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="979" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="980" CreationDate="2016-04-13T14:10:00.600" Score="3" ViewCount="292" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Before you put duplicate from this &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/147/which-are-the-food-safe-materials-and-how-do-i-recognize-them&quot;&gt;Which are the food-safe materials and how do I recognize them?&lt;/a&gt; please read&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I need to know if &lt;a href=&quot;http://store.printm3d.com/#filaments_head_scroll&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this 3D Ink™ (PLA Filament) &lt;/a&gt;is food safe&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lNh2d.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lNh2d.png&quot; alt=&quot;this &quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1002" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2018-12-12T09:47:24.850" LastActivityDate="2018-12-12T09:47:24.850" Title="Micro 3D filament food safe" Tags="|filament|food|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="980" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="979" CreationDate="2016-04-13T14:26:32.317" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;In general, PLA is known as a &quot;food safe&quot; filament, especially &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Natural PLA&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;. However, filament suppliers have different processes that may detriment the food safe quality.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Doing a little digging, I found &lt;a href=&quot;https://printm3d.com/solutions/article.php?id=47&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;an article on the M3D site&lt;/a&gt; which mentions the following about their filament&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;All of our products, including our filaments are made from 100% non-toxic components and considered generally safe under normal use. They are not considered a chemical, or a hazardous material by OSHA standards. Therefore, OSHA defines it as an &quot;article&quot; and does not require MSDS sheets. You can see more information about that here: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ilpi.com/msds/faq/partb.html#article&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.ilpi.com/msds/faq/partb.html#article&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, without contacting M3D directly to acquire an MSDS (or asking if its food safe), you will not find one online.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://pinshape.com/blog/3d-printing-food-safe/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Here&lt;/a&gt; is an article on a few tips for printing food safe objects as well. In a nut shell, don't 3D print food handling objects with crevasses, using uranium, or intend to put in the oven (a.k.a common sense).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="98" LastActivityDate="2016-04-13T14:26:32.317" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="981" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-13T17:35:24.807" Score="3" ViewCount="5196" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a prusa i3 with Mendel firmware and a RAMPS board.  Recently it has been randomly stopping during prints.  The LCD screen will lock up, the print will stop, and the heating elements will turn off.  Pressing the reset button on the RAMPS restarts the system and it works fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition to stopping during prints, it has also frozen up while just sitting while on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My first thought is the power supply (12V 30A) is going bad, but is there anything else I should check before I buy a new one and replace it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Update:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I replaced the power supply with a new one, and the printer did not stop and completed a print.  I am voting to close the question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="43" LastEditorUserId="43" LastEditDate="2016-04-21T00:08:37.063" LastActivityDate="2016-04-21T00:08:37.063" Title="Printer randomly stops, Is the power supply bad?" Tags="|prusa-i3|switching-power-supply|firmware|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="982" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-13T18:42:45.980" Score="3" ViewCount="1293" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been using Solidworks and AutoCAD to create STL file of a 3D model I want to print. I slice the STL file using Freesteel Z level slicer (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.freesteel.co.uk/wpblog/slicer/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.freesteel.co.uk/wpblog/slicer/&lt;/a&gt;) and save the slices in a bmp format. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My 3d print has an array of circular channels, all of one radius. I expected the bmp slice to contain the circular shapes looking exactly identical to each other. However, I don't obtain the exact same replicas. Looks like the pixel-wise mapping has not been done uniformly. (View &lt;a href=&quot;http://s24.postimg.org/p7w09zvkl/snippet.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://s24.postimg.org/p7w09zvkl/snippet.png&lt;/a&gt; for the image). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want each and every circle to be represented by exactly the same set of pixels in the bmp image, so that all of the circular contours are identical. (I do not prefer changing the pixel resolution.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I overcome this problem? Are there any better tools which would lead to a perfectly uniform pixel-wise mapping? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PJ &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1381" LastActivityDate="2018-09-14T20:18:36.800" Title="How to create a very accurate STL file as well as the slices for a 3D printer?" Tags="|3d-models|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="983" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-13T18:59:16.827" Score="5" ViewCount="467" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm losing my mind, it all started out with the idea of a project where I want an abstract shape (I'm going to call it a stretched cube with an angle), now I know a bit of Vectorworks - a 3D/Architecture drawing program. I found nothing in all the tutorials how to make something low poly but still be able to for example screw the bottom of with a thread for example.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found numerous shapes I like on Thingiverse but they are all STL files which I've learned so far are hard to edit and make them functionally usable when cross transferring them for one to another program. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Today I gave it another try to find other programs which can give me the result and functionality I want. Thus far I've only found program where you make the shape perfectly and then by using a mesh program like 123make and Meshmixer to then change the outcome of the rendering. But in my case this makes some parts unable to use anymore as example the threading? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So for the question I their a program which I can make a low poly shape (example below) where I still can add holes and threading like you can do with AutoCAD, Vectorworks. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope somebody knows how to do this I've been searching and asking around for weeks!!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is an example of the type of shape I would like to create, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.be/search?q=low%20poly%20vase&amp;amp;espv=2&amp;amp;biw=1567&amp;amp;bih=976&amp;amp;tbm=isch&amp;amp;imgil=s0wM9Yoq8UTF1M%253A%253BNVFfgWtuiEyI8M%253Bhttps%25253A%25252F%25252Fwww.etsy.com%25252Flisting%25252F221563489%25252Fartsy-vases-redux-golden-polygon-modern&amp;amp;source=iu&amp;amp;pf=m&amp;amp;fir=s0wM9Yoq8UTF1M%253A%252CNVFfgWtuiEyI8M%252C_&amp;amp;usg=__9w_ZHPGpome2_nNv4VJ7ZRwwRUw%3D&amp;amp;ved=0ahUKEwiPqO-qpYzMAhUIow4KHY7BDmoQyjcIJg&amp;amp;ei=VJYOV4-uIojGOo6Du9AG#imgrc=s0wM9Yoq8UTF1M%3A&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Low poly vase&lt;/a&gt; - mine would be exactly the same but it would be to give you an idea&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Example of the thread I would like to implement in the shape above, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:227192&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Tap and Die for 3D printed threads &lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1382" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-06-29T07:37:31.003" LastActivityDate="2018-06-29T07:37:31.003" Title="Functional object in low poly - program and tutorial" Tags="|3d-design|3d-models|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="984" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="987" CreationDate="2016-04-13T19:59:29.573" Score="7" ViewCount="342" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there any well-known test set of 3D models that I can print out which will clearly show up the problems I need to work out in calibrating my 3D printer? Ideally, it would be either one or multiple models which shows the point at which overhanging starts to fail, points at which stringing occurs, the accuracy of one layer over another, and maybe edges which are supposed to be a particular length.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1350" LastActivityDate="2016-04-13T20:32:57.330" Title="3D printer calibration test STLs?" Tags="|3d-models|calibration|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="985" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="982" CreationDate="2016-04-13T20:24:25.270" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your objective has a serious constraint regarding the pixel resolution. Within that limitation, the software (slicer) you are using will generate &quot;best guess&quot; images, particularly dependent on floating point math. There may be a single combination of circular shapes (radius) and spacing for these shapes that provides your objective, but that's likely not a practical exercise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You have not indicated if you've tried other slicers, which would be the primary direction. A list of choices can be found here:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://all3dp.com/best-3d-printing-software-tools/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Free Slicing Program List&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another option that you can consider, not included in this list, is to use OpenSCAD, import the STL file, then use the projection() command to manually slice and export the image file. I use the term &quot;manually&quot; but the program can be coded to perform this task automatically, and there is a command line feature to OpenSCAD that may be useful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note also that the output of these slicers and/or OpenSCAD may exceed the resolution you desire. Manipulation of the image with a graphics editor could result in the same floating point disarray as you perform the changes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastActivityDate="2016-04-13T20:24:25.270" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="986" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="983" CreationDate="2016-04-13T20:29:21.373" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've had my share of struggles with the issues you're having - bridging the software gap between hard-edge, parametric modeling tools (typically CAD) and more free-form, 'soft'/organic, modeling tools. It's not a trivial task to work across both domains simultaneously.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The simplest workflow I've developed is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Create a simple CAD model of parts of the object you're trying to make that have mechanical/precision features (e.g. threaded screw holes, joints) in a CAD program (e.g. AutoCAD, Inventor, Solidworks, Fusion 360).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Export a high-precision STL of those parts&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Create/generate the 'soft'/organic portions of the model in your software suite of choice (e.g. Blender, Maya)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Export an OBJ file (or STL, if the option is available) of the 'soft' parts&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Import both sets of parts into &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.meshmixer.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Meshmixer&lt;/a&gt; and combine them there.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Export to a single, combined STL&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;(Optional) Pass the 'end product' STL through a model &quot;fixer&quot; - I quite like the &lt;a href=&quot;https://modelrepair.azurewebsites.net/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Microsoft Model Repair Service&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Meshmixer is a powerful but poorly documented tool. In my experience, it's capable of accomplishing most of the basic &quot;fixes&quot; most models need in preparation for 3d-printing. It is possible to do some amount of sculpting/organic modeling within Meshmixer itself but you'll probably find it inferior in that regard to other software suites, if you know how to use them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1384" LastActivityDate="2016-04-13T20:29:21.373" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="987" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="984" CreationDate="2016-04-13T20:32:57.330" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are more test models one can download than would be possible to list here. A search on Thingiverse results in pages and pages of useful models. A common model for testing is called the 3d Benchy, although it is not particularly parametric. Overhangs, retraction, layer alignment and other aspects of your printer are tested with this model.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another option is to purchase a set of test models from 3dkitbash.com:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.3dkitbash.com/quick-prints/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;QuickPrintTests&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The models lists as such:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#3dk01 - Voids&#xA;#3dk02 - Spikes&#xA;#3dk03 - Flex&#xA;#3dk04 - Edge&#xA;#3dk05 - Text&#xA;#3dk06 - Bridge&#xA;#3dk07 - Dissolve&#xA;#3dk08 - Ball Joint&#xA;#3dk09 - Hinge&#xA;#3dk10 - Columns&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;which are more specifically defined for testing your printer. I would expect that Thingiverse and other model-sharing sites would have similar designs available to meet your specific requirements.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastActivityDate="2016-04-13T20:32:57.330" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="988" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-13T19:30:52.690" Score="5" ViewCount="188" Body="&lt;p&gt;I made a torus that was 1 on the x and y axes, and 3 on the z axis in Blender. It is supposed to be a bead for a beaded necklace. It was exported to Cura as an .stl, then printed on a Lulzbot Mini. It worked fine in plastic, but when we tried it with bronze filament the nozzle clogged and it didn't start printing.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Is there something I need to add to the model that will provide instructions for the printer? The person who operates the printer says that most, but not all, of the models he prints in bronze have a border around them when they print, and this one didn't. I don't know if that makes a difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Cathleen" LastEditorUserId="98" LastEditDate="2016-04-14T14:12:12.307" LastActivityDate="2016-04-14T14:50:37.243" Title="Bronze Filament Problem" Tags="|filament|ultimaker-cura|nozzle|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="989" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="988" CreationDate="2016-04-13T22:07:34.597" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;We print a lot of stuff in a variety of materials, and I think it is likely what you are experiencing is a problem caused by some combination of the following: Object size overall, object detail size, wall thickness, or span width/thickness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Blender gives pretty clean stls, but the last-mile needed to get output is primarily a materials engineering problem.... (and saying thias, I am assuming you got a valid stl that the printer was able to read and rip...)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A first thought: Try loading your stl into one of the services that price online. Shapeways does, and Cubify does or did... and you can download the driver software for the Form2 even if you don't own the printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bring your stl into these apps and look for error messages. The Shapeways ordering app does a nice job of showing issues, particularly ones like wall thickness and manifold faces/vertices (another possibility I did not mention above) very quickly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd offer to look at your stl if it is something you can share... and/or you can ask your output guy for a sample stl he has printed with some success before. Bring that stl file into Blender beside your model and compare.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do not recognize a &quot;border&quot; around stls, but all of the printers have preferences for the support sprues that support the model as it is built.... possible that he means these?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In any case, shout if I can help. We have used a lot of materials, but some of them take tweaking -- most often with detail size (how small of a detail you can recreate on the rpinted surface) and step size (how small the steps are inbetween printed layers in additive rinting systems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or... just chuck it onto a CNC with a big ole' block of bronze and machine it down!  That's pretty old school, but it works, too... just by removing material rather than adding. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a torus at Shapeways I uploaded....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7gMY6.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7gMY6.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="rcgauer" LastActivityDate="2016-04-13T22:54:05.343" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="990" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-14T04:09:00.080" Score="3" ViewCount="107" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;You may want to use &lt;a href=&quot;http://reprap.org/wiki/File:RAMPSTestCode.pde&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this code&lt;/a&gt; to test all the electronics before&#xA;  installing any of the suggested firmwares.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;From &lt;a href=&quot;http://reprap.org/wiki/RAMPS_1.4#Final_Setup&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Final Step in the RAMPS 1.4 Wiki&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's a bunch of code in the sketch, and it looks to me like it just makes a component run, or heat up, for a little but and then move on to the next component, and do the same thing is that about right?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Well if I'm testing this out and my printer is already for the most part assembled; should I set the stepper jumpers to something larger like a full turn, or half step, so I can see the motors move?  Because I've also read that if you're going to test things out you shouldn't even be hooking up but one of the stepper drivers in case you burn one out!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastActivityDate="2016-07-13T11:47:29.373" Title="How do I determine that the electronics are working with the test firmware?" Tags="|printer-building|ramps-1.4|prusa-i3-rework|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="991" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="995" CreationDate="2016-04-14T04:23:04.040" Score="4" ViewCount="1559" Body="&lt;p&gt;On my &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B007KG0ZYI&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Switching Power Supply&lt;/a&gt; there is a little orange trimpot that's marked &lt;code&gt;VR1&lt;/code&gt;; what does that do, and does it work similar to the ones on the stepper drivers?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastActivityDate="2016-04-14T13:31:39.480" Title="What does the trimpot on my Switching Power Supply do?" Tags="|printer-building|switching-power-supply|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="992" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="998" CreationDate="2016-04-14T04:44:40.390" Score="2" ViewCount="309" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a solidoodle 4 and have blown the power supply . Long and the short of it is I am trying to modify a Xbox 1 power supply to fulfill the need. I am measuring he voltage at the output and its 14.04 volt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Question is this, is the operational voltage range on a solidoodle able to operate on 14 volt ? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1389" LastActivityDate="2016-04-20T14:24:31.787" Title="Solidoodle 4 voltage requirements" Tags="|printer-building|desktop-printer|electronics|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="993" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="991" CreationDate="2016-04-14T04:46:44.990" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Vr usually stands for variable resistor, basically a pot. Usually by adjusting this you would adjust the voltage output on most power supplies, ensure you double check your voltage output with a meter after adjusting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1389" LastActivityDate="2016-04-14T04:46:44.990" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="994" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="990" CreationDate="2016-04-14T06:59:42.923" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Running this kind of test isn't really necessary; it provides a nice test to see if everything is working &lt;em&gt;but so does uploading actual firmware&lt;/em&gt; (and this isn't any safer than traditional firmware, at that).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It looks like it runs the steppers in one direction for 5 seconds and then in reverse for 5, which should be more than enough to see them move even with 1/32 stepping (it moves them at 1 step/ms, which would come out to 3/4ths of a turn with 1/200 steppers and 1/32 microstepping).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It isn't necessary to remove any code that isn't used. It does no harm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastEditorUserId="26" LastEditDate="2016-06-13T10:47:31.233" LastActivityDate="2016-06-13T10:47:31.233" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="995" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="991" CreationDate="2016-04-14T10:30:10.253" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;No doubt it's just a final tuning potentiometer. Even on the pictures you linked it's described as V adj which stands for voltage adjustment.&#xA;It's a way to tune your power supply's output as it can vary depending on temperature/humidity/wall-plug voltage/etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's usually set properly and doesn't need to be touched. But you can connect a multimeter to check if your power supply gives the voltage you need. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are not familiar with the subject but still want to do it yourself, it's good to set your multimeter to the highest available range and make sure that AC/DC is properly chosen.  Now you can measure voltage. You can set the range closer to the expected values then. Usually multimeters have a range around 20 or 30V DC which is propbably what you expect from your power supply. In such a range you should see something like 12.000. If it varies from 12.000 you can then precisely adjust it to get as close as possible to this value. But watch out... cheap power supplies can cheat you. When the are have a load on the output (your 3D printer for example) they can reduce voltage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1211" LastEditorUserId="168" LastEditDate="2016-04-14T13:31:39.480" LastActivityDate="2016-04-14T13:31:39.480" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="996" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="988" CreationDate="2016-04-14T14:27:29.067" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The border that the operator is most likely referring to is called a brim or skirt and is typically handled by the Slicing software that the operator uses to convert the 3D solid model into the machine code for the 3D printer to run. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd recommend double checking the settings in Cura for a brim/skirt. This function will make the machine print a small outer layer a few millimeters away from the part itself. The outer layer gets the filament flowing and hopefully will dislodge any clogs the machine might have.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="98" LastActivityDate="2016-04-14T14:27:29.067" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="997" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="988" CreationDate="2016-04-14T14:50:37.243" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since we do not know more about the printer and its settings it is most likely that the issues lies within the printer and the temperature/print speed settings. Fill materials do print differently than just colored plastic of the same type. Find valid print parameters for the type of filament that you can modify as needed for the printer that is being used (a good first gauge are the offsets the printer has for other type of filaments (thermistors might be offset for example) added to the 'literature values' of the new filament).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It might also be, that the nozzle was not clean when changing filaments and hence the clogging occured. Have you/your printing guy tried a 'cold pull'? &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/233/how-should-i-clean-my-extruder-when-changing-materials&quot;&gt;How should I clean my extruder when changing materials?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Usually nozzle clogging comes down to knowledge about your printer and experience with the filament.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="168" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T13:00:58.447" LastActivityDate="2016-04-14T14:50:37.243" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="998" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="992" CreationDate="2016-04-14T15:11:36.813" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have not used or seen a solidoodle 4, but as found on the internet, the controller board used in the printer is a version of the Sanguinololu, and the reprap wiki says that&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The board is designed to be flexible in its power source, working with&#xA;  a 12V/5V ATX power supply or any 7V-35V power source via the on-board&#xA;  voltage regulator.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;if you're using a board not older than V0.7 &lt;a href=&quot;http://reprap.org/wiki/Sanguinololu&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://reprap.org/wiki/Sanguinololu&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I have also found images that show the Solidoodle with this board:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.reprap.org/wiki/SAV_MKI&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.reprap.org/wiki/SAV_MKI&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;which can be used with 11-15V. This however might be for older versions of the printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are some things to keep in mind: if there is no voltage regulator on the board, make sure that all parts can take the voltage without overheating at some points. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="168" LastActivityDate="2016-04-14T15:11:36.813" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="999" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="979" CreationDate="2016-04-14T17:41:22.593" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In general no filament is safe as the printing process leaves &quot;nooks and cranies&quot; between the layers where germs can gain a foothold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For food safe, I would advise:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;print with white filament&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;use an acetone vapor bath to smooth and melt many of the &quot;nooks and cranies&quot; away.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use a spray polyurathane and coat with 3-4 layers to reduce the evil &quot;nooks and cranies&quot; even more.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At that point it it should be dishwasher safe and food safe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1397" LastEditorUserId="1397" LastEditDate="2016-04-15T01:03:22.523" LastActivityDate="2016-04-15T01:03:22.523" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1000" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="978" CreationDate="2016-04-14T17:54:39.680" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Baking PCB in an oven is not a good idea, I would say. I know PCBs are resistive to the heat (especially heatbeds) but, still, it sounds odd. But the real question is how baking would help. Let's leave it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your heatbed is such bent you can do few things depending on your situation/environment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Add two glass plates (at the bottom and at the top) and clip them all together;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Support your HB with flat aluminium or even wood;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Add an aluminium frame, or;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you use glass plate, clip the HB to the glass using stronger (wider) clips.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ad#1 the thermistor can even stay sandwiched between the PCB and the bottom glass plate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ad#2 If your HB is bent up in the middle, you can use the middle thermistor hole. Drill it a bit with fi8mm drill (but not too much, I would say halfway through) and use a cone head screw to screw it flat on to the aluminium/wood support. Of course you will have to install a thermistor into the new place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The simplest, and less destructive, solution is #1 and I would recommend that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1211" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2016-11-28T15:12:38.163" LastActivityDate="2016-11-28T15:12:38.163" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1001" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="983" CreationDate="2016-04-15T01:07:43.217" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have some programming background, take a look at &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.openscad.org/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;OpenScad&lt;/a&gt;.   It allows you to model using a functional programming language.  Basically all of the customizer models on Thingiverse are written in openscad.  My gut says you can use the poly command to string together a bunch of polygons to do what you want.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1397" LastActivityDate="2016-04-15T01:07:43.217" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1002" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="957" CreationDate="2016-04-15T01:16:36.370" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Look into post processing your model with an &lt;a href=&quot;http://makezine.com/2014/09/24/smoothing-out-your-3d-prints-with-acetone-vapor/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Acetone vapor Bath.&lt;/a&gt;.  ABS plastic disolves in acetone.   if you put your print in a chamber full of acetone vapor, the outer skin will sort of melt, and give you the effect you are looking for. The goal is to leave it in long enough that the outer skin melts a bit.  Too short a time, and you don't get enough melting.  Too long a time and more than the skin melts, and the print may deform.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1397" LastActivityDate="2016-04-15T01:16:36.370" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1004" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="215" CreationDate="2016-04-15T01:34:48.243" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use a razor blade scraper to get stuff off that is sticking.&#xA;Priory to printing I heat and level the build plate, then wipe it down with alcohol to get any greasey fingerprints off of it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thingiverse.com/make:177038&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;My Scraper&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1397" LastActivityDate="2016-04-15T01:34:48.243" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1005" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="215" CreationDate="2016-04-15T11:52:22.740" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I print PLA on glass plate, I clean the glass with cold water and dishwashing liquid. Cold water! And no wipe! Cold water should take all dishwashing liquid &quot;to the ground&quot;. Now you have glass as clean as possible. Now the filament sticks to the glass far better than when glass is not clean.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But of course it doesn't fix problem of cleaning HB after print. To reduce this  problem I use glue stick (paper glue). I don't know if it's common but I do like this technique.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So having clean glass I spread (grease) some glue stick. It doesn't really matter if HB is cold or hot. This gives me a VERY strong adhesive force between the extruded filament and the glass. It's so strong that there is almost no way to detache it by hand. I use a paper knife.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now you still have thin layer of glue and you can print again / add another layer of glue (but not more than 2..3 times) or wash it with hot water. After few times it's good to clean it again with dishwashing liquid and cold water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This technique is amazing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1211" LastEditorUserId="895" LastEditDate="2016-09-27T08:49:03.237" LastActivityDate="2016-09-27T08:49:03.237" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1006" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1010" CreationDate="2016-04-15T12:29:19.757" Score="5" ViewCount="156" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sorry if this isn't the right place to ask, but it seemed like the most relevant stackexchange.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to print a connection from a motor to an omniwheel, the axle of the wheel is listed as 8mm, but the one of the motor only say &quot;3h5&quot; which isn't really helpful for me, and neither was Google.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Side-question: Would pla be sturdy enough or do I need to use abs?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1406" LastActivityDate="2016-04-15T19:25:28.840" Title="What does a &quot;3 h5&quot; mean in reference to the axle of a motor?" Tags="|abs|pla|3d-models|print-preparation|motor|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1007" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="957" CreationDate="2016-04-15T14:25:00.820" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use Simplify3d as my slicer, and this has a 'vase' mode.  You end up with a single wall thickness and it only works on simple shapes without supports.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You get no infill or top surface, so it only works for certain shapes; vases for example!!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="198" LastActivityDate="2016-04-15T14:25:00.820" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1008" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="951" CreationDate="2016-04-15T14:30:23.067" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In terms of FFD plastics:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using metal infused filaments for FFD printing; definitely not.  The properties mixed into the filament will have some affect on the final piece, stronger, heavier, etc for BronzeFill, but still the majority of the print material will be plastic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, you can use PLA plastics (and new Moldlay wax like filament) for lost wax casting so all of the plastic is replaced with the molten metal.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;In this case, yes, all the plastic or filament is replaced with the final casting metal and it's at strong as any other cast item.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="198" LastActivityDate="2016-04-15T14:30:23.067" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1009" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="936" CreationDate="2016-04-15T14:34:54.970" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I needed to grease up my machine and had no access to specialist materials.  So I researched, and ended up using Vaseline.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I now have a small tub of it as part of my machine maintenance kit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="198" LastActivityDate="2016-04-15T14:34:54.970" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1010" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1006" CreationDate="2016-04-15T16:33:17.797" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think it's a reference to a tolerance. Look at &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.toolingsolutions.com/technical_info/iso_tolerance&quot;&gt;this ISO table&lt;/a&gt;. This States that the nominal diameter of 3mm is held to a tolerance of +-0.004mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;@DarthPixel provided some great links identifying the term &lt;em&gt;interference fit&lt;/em&gt; (or press fit as I've heard locally) as described &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Interference_fit&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;. Also, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.eminebea.com/en/engineering_info/bearing/ballbearings/cat-3/004-10.shtml&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; is a better link providing examples of how the tolerance works and more legible tables to reference the correct tolerance. Keep in mind that the units in the tables is in nanometers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="98" LastEditorUserId="98" LastEditDate="2016-04-15T19:25:28.840" LastActivityDate="2016-04-15T19:25:28.840" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1011" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="983" CreationDate="2016-04-16T02:01:12.807" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, you can accomplish threading easily with something like 3Ds Max, Blender, Maya etc. I use Maya personally so, in Maya, all you have to do is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Create a cylinder. This will be the main body of your 'screw'.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;To make the thread, you need to create a helix primitive. You can edit the number of coils and the coil thickness in the Maya GUI.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Once you have the thread, it is a simple matter of performing a couple of boolean operations. The first boolean (union) operation will unite the screw made in step 1 with the thread made in step 2. The second boolean (subtract) operation will cut out the thread from the object within which you want your screw to be driven into. When you print the two models, you should find that the screw nicely turns into the object from which you cut out the thread.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The point is: yes, it is easy to do such things in most 3D software packages. Maya comes with a nice selection of default objects you can use, so essentially you need to do no 'modeling' yourself to create something like the example you showed us.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your next question, about editing models on Thingiverse. The reason why you cannot edit them easily is because most models there have been decimated and triangulated, which makes them very difficult to reshape or edit because the topology is no longer strictly manifold -- it is just a big mess of triangles! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to edit Thingiverse models, I recommend something like ZBrush. You can import triangulated models and then rebuild the geometry into quads (using DynaMesh, for example), which you can then edit to your liking. Once done, you can simply decimate and re-export as STL or whatever extension you need.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, low/high poly is not so relevant in 3D print outs, especially in mechanically functioning parts. This is because most models are created in high resolution (high polygon count) and then decimated + triangulated down to truncate file sizes. But the functionality and physical feel of the model should not change due to this process - it just takes practice and lots of experimentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hassan&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1416" LastActivityDate="2016-04-16T02:01:12.807" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1012" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1013" CreationDate="2016-04-18T01:39:11.703" Score="6" ViewCount="280" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just recently purchased a new MightyBoard (Rev G) for my Replicator that requires a new power supply. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The power supply for the Rev E was a 24&amp;nbsp;V/9.2&amp;nbsp;A which was necessary for the dual extruders and heated bed. I know I need a 24&amp;nbsp;V power supply, but should I be concerned about the amperage? What will a higher (or lower) rating affect on my machine?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="98" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2019-07-12T11:15:44.690" LastActivityDate="2019-07-12T11:15:44.690" Title="Power Supply Safety" Tags="|electronics|switching-power-supply|mightyboard|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="1013" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1012" CreationDate="2016-04-18T04:35:08.850" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I suggest looking at the maximum amperage draw for all components that could be on at one time, and then find a power supply that can supply at least 20% more current.  You would never want to get a supply rated for lower current than your max draw, because then it will affect the torque or your motors, or the temperature to which your heaters can get.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Think of it like this: An outlet at home may be rated at 115V/20A.  Your blender is not going to draw the full 20A; having a little extra never hurts.  But if you try to run a large appliance (dryer, hot tub, etc.) on a smaller amp circuit, the breaker would blow because you are trying to draw more than it can supply.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The point is, get something rated for higher than you need, within reason.  It will draw only what it needs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pro tip:  Make sure to set the current limits on your stepper motor drivers for maximum performance!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1414" LastActivityDate="2016-04-18T04:35:08.850" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1014" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="981" CreationDate="2016-04-18T06:19:06.500" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It could be several things.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your ramps board is overheating or has to much load on it. If you're not cooling the ramps board adding a fan may help the issue. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know Robo3D had this issue and started shipping with a fan to cool the ramps board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The ramps/arduino board could be faulty, the firmware may have gotten corrupted or the current version has a bug in the code.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are not printing from the sdcard on the lcd controller and using software through a usb connection, that computer may be causing the issue as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="762" LastActivityDate="2016-04-18T06:19:06.500" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1015" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1012" CreationDate="2016-04-18T07:28:16.957" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;A short, figurative answer from the electronical point of view:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A &lt;strong&gt;power supply&lt;/strong&gt; (an an analogy you can view it as a water pump) as used by 3D printers is usually supplying a fixed &lt;strong&gt;voltage&lt;/strong&gt; (a constant pressure going into your pipe system), in your case 24V.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The given &lt;strong&gt;amperage/current&lt;/strong&gt; (the amount of water that actually flows) that is actually utilized at a given point in time is determined by whatever you hook up to your power supply (the system of tubes or pipes - imagine a valve like your tap/faucet). Now the amperage rating of your power supply gives how much current you can run through your electrical system (as is the flow of your tap/faucet by the pump if you had a limitless big, imigainative one).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;strong&gt;power&lt;/strong&gt; that your supply can deliver is the product of voltage and amperage: P(power) = U(voltage)*I(current).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;What you need to make sure is&lt;/em&gt; that &lt;strong&gt;a) you deliver the correct voltage&lt;/strong&gt;, because this is what your circuitry needs to be specifically designed for (image the pressure of your pump being too low or to high, - you either won't recieve any water in the second floor, or your tubing can't stand the pressure) and &lt;strong&gt;b) that you can supply &lt;em&gt;at least&lt;/em&gt; the needed power&lt;/strong&gt; (otherwise you get a problem once you open up all the taps/faucets in your house, because they don't supply as much water as demanded). If your power supply can give more current, that's fine, it might just not be used. And as mentioned by Thetravellingfool already, keep a certain plus for losses and as a reserve, because no pump likes to run constantly at it's limits either ;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="168" LastActivityDate="2016-04-18T07:28:16.957" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1016" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-04-19T06:52:04.223" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2016-04-19T06:52:04.223" LastActivityDate="2016-04-19T06:52:04.223" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1017" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-04-19T06:52:04.223" Score="0" Body="Questions about stepper motors, a motor type commonly used in 3D printers." OwnerUserId="115" LastEditorUserId="115" LastEditDate="2016-04-19T15:06:25.623" LastActivityDate="2016-04-19T15:06:25.623" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1018" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-04-19T07:03:10.893" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The design of the i3 focuses on ease of construction and use rather than maximising the number of self replicated components.  As summarized in the &lt;a href=&quot;http://reprap.org/wiki/Prusa_i3&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;RepRap wiki&lt;/a&gt;, the following is a list of the main improvements made upon the Prusa Mendel Iteration 2:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Enhanced frame rigidity (prevents x-axis backlash)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Easy assembly&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Parametric files for multiple sizes/bearings or bushings&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="115" LastEditorUserId="9134" LastEditDate="2018-05-30T16:42:34.333" LastActivityDate="2018-05-30T16:42:34.333" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="1019" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-04-19T07:03:10.893" Score="0" Body="The Prusa i3 is the third iteration of Josef Průša's RepRap 3D printer design. This is an open-source design, the tag should be used regardless of individual manufacturer. You might want to add the specific manufacturer or model as a separate tag." OwnerUserId="115" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2020-09-02T15:35:30.720" LastActivityDate="2020-09-02T15:35:30.720" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="1020" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-04-19T07:12:14.270" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;As stated in the &lt;a href=&quot;http://reprap.org/wiki/Prusa_i3_Rework_Introduction&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;RepRap wiki&lt;/a&gt;, the following is a list of the improvements made upon the original Prusa i3 design:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Extruder upgrade: Support for the Magma Hotend (by Trinity Lab).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;New cooling fan duct for Magma Hotend.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Y idler with a tensioner system.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;X end idler with endstop holder.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Upgrade X end idler in order to support 624 bearing.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Y motor with endstop holder.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Addition of Z endstop holder.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Addition of a Dremel FlexShaft attachment for 3 Axis CNC milling.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="115" LastEditorUserId="115" LastEditDate="2016-04-19T15:06:40.013" LastActivityDate="2016-04-19T15:06:40.013" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1021" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-04-19T07:12:14.270" Score="0" Body="The Prusa i3 Rework is a revised version of the third iteration of Prusajr's famous RepRap 3D printer design." OwnerUserId="115" LastEditorUserId="115" LastEditDate="2016-04-19T15:06:11.870" LastActivityDate="2016-04-19T15:06:11.870" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1022" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-04-19T07:24:33.387" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The thermistor is an electronic component whose resistance changes with varying temperature - more so than regular resistors. This make the thermistor valuable as a temperature sensor, and is commonly used as such - also in 3D printing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="115" LastEditorUserId="115" LastEditDate="2016-04-19T14:18:50.723" LastActivityDate="2016-04-19T14:18:50.723" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1023" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-04-19T07:24:33.387" Score="0" Body="The thermistor is an electronic component commonly used to sense temperature." OwnerUserId="115" LastEditorUserId="115" LastEditDate="2016-04-19T14:18:22.440" LastActivityDate="2016-04-19T14:18:22.440" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1024" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="981" CreationDate="2016-04-19T19:47:25.897" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had the same thing, the printer was not heating the nozzle anymore after starting the print.  I fixed this by reinstalling the firmware.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It could also be that your stepper drivers are overheating. you can add a fan to cool them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The SD card could be bad, maybe try an other card or another .gcode file.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is probably not your power supply, a 30A power supply is more than enough, but you can measure the volts on the power supply while the printer is running, if it is around 12V it is probably alright.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1466" LastEditorUserId="43" LastEditDate="2016-04-19T20:14:55.390" LastActivityDate="2016-04-19T20:14:55.390" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1026" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-20T03:34:28.357" Score="2" ViewCount="426" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some 3&amp;nbsp;mm filaments seem to actually be 3&amp;nbsp;mm - is there any way to shave off the excess and use it as 2.85&amp;nbsp;mm? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1469" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-07-03T07:02:29.523" LastActivityDate="2019-07-03T07:02:29.523" Title="Is there any way to shrink 3 mm filaments down to 2.85 mm?" Tags="|filament|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="1027" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1026" CreationDate="2016-04-20T06:07:31.100" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would not recommend you to try and somehow re-size the filament, since even the smallest of irregularities and error in diameter occurring from such a process would ruin your prints with sporadic over and under extrusion. Rather, if you have the tools available, you could grind the filament into pellets, and use a filament extruder to make it anew with your desired diameter. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively, depending on your printer setup, you might very well extrude true 3.00 filament with your 2.85 mm filament printer. If you try to do that, make sure to:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Adjust filament diameter in your slicer&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check that your filament isn't getting squashed by the extruder wheel&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check that all mechanical parts actually can pass through your filament freely&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do not own a 2.85 mm printer myself, and therefore have not tried this procedure. There are, however, &lt;a href=&quot;https://ultimaker.com/en/community/4297-30mm-pla-vs-285mm-pla&quot;&gt;several people&lt;/a&gt; who seem to have done this successfully.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="115" LastActivityDate="2016-04-20T06:07:31.100" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1028" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-04-20T19:27:46.507" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2016-04-20T19:27:46.507" LastActivityDate="2016-04-20T19:27:46.507" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1029" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-04-20T19:27:46.507" Score="0" Body="3D design (or modelling) is the process of creating a three dimensional digital representation of some object that, for instance, can be 3D printed." OwnerUserId="115" LastEditorUserId="115" LastEditDate="2016-04-21T02:03:26.027" LastActivityDate="2016-04-21T02:03:26.027" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1030" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-04-20T19:47:07.383" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2016-04-20T19:47:07.383" LastActivityDate="2016-04-20T19:47:07.383" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1031" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-04-20T19:47:07.383" Score="0" Body="A switched-mode power supply (also called an SMPS or &quot;switcher&quot;) converts electrical power from one state to another. An SMPS can for instance be used to convert power from an electrical wall outlet into a voltage, frequency and amperage usable by smaller electronic circuits." OwnerUserId="115" LastEditorUserId="115" LastEditDate="2016-04-21T02:03:00.497" LastActivityDate="2016-04-21T02:03:00.497" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1032" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1033" CreationDate="2016-04-21T02:12:52.817" Score="6" ViewCount="2825" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was working on my printer when something metallic came into contact with the pcb. I smelled smoke and quickly unplugged the printer. Anyway, this is the result and, of course, the heat bed won't heat. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can this be salvaged or should I toss it and buy a new one? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WhRPu.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WhRPu.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;shorted&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;update&lt;/strong&gt; the heat bed was not hot at the time. I had the heat bed unscrewed from the chassis but had forgotten to unplug the printer. I am not exactly sure how it shorted but I think it shorted between the power lead connection and the thermistor. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="768" LastEditorUserId="1" LastEditDate="2016-04-21T19:09:01.220" LastActivityDate="2017-02-25T23:16:35.803" Title="Can a short-circuited heat bed be salvaged?" Tags="|heated-bed|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1033" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1032" CreationDate="2016-04-21T05:11:33.050" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;What happend was short circuit of course. There is no doubt you overheated HB so copper detached from HB base plate. Because you wrote it doesn't work it means copper tracks are broken.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is very low chance to fix it. I mean it - near to zero.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What you could do is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Detach HB from arduino&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Find a place where track is broken (which needs to uncover it from protective layer)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Connect it with a wire&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately even if you do it and your HB will work (electrically) your fixed HB which won't be flat anymore.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So definitely it's to be thrown away.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;[edit]&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I just realised you have double power HB, which means your HB has 2 heaters... which gives a bit hope.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;take a look here&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GZMZc.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GZMZc.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://reprap.org/mediawiki/images/thumb/6/62/Heated-bed-schematic.png/800px-Heated-bed-schematic.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here is schematics&lt;/a&gt; which could give you an idea&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could check if your second heater works ok&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If yes then you are salvaged! :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;[edit2]&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;I really suppose the schematics of HB is more or less like this&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AS2I1.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AS2I1.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So if H1 is broken there is a chance to use H2 connecting pins respectively&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1211" LastEditorUserId="1211" LastEditDate="2016-04-21T22:13:20.023" LastActivityDate="2016-04-21T22:13:20.023" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1034" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="966" CreationDate="2016-04-21T05:46:14.220" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;As per the detailed answer given by Ryan Carlyle, it can be a trial and error process to determine the optimal settings for your printer.  This certainly does not require absolute accuracy of the temperature sensors&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; or the use of ideal filament to achieve.  In your slicing program it should be possible to &lt;em&gt;increment&lt;/em&gt; or &lt;em&gt;alter&lt;/em&gt; the parameters - like 'flow rate' or 'printing temperature' &lt;em&gt;during&lt;/em&gt; a print of a simple shape - in such a way that is is possible to make subjective comparisons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some enthusiast videos detail a method of using a slicer program to print a simple hollow column and to increment a particular parameter from say 90 % to 110 % of the &amp;quot;ideal&amp;quot; values in fixed steps every 5 mm in the Z direction.  One can then observe the output and make a subjective determination of the print quality along the length of the column, and adopt the parameter value associated with the position in Z that produced the &amp;quot;best&amp;quot; outcome in terms of finish, strength and layer adhesion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A standard plugin for the free slicer program &amp;quot;Ultimaker Cura&amp;quot; called &amp;quot;TweakAtZ&amp;quot; allows one to generate such a script, and could be a good option even if you normally would use a different slicer.  A user on the youtube site (with which I have no association) detailed this approach in a video titled &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/N-7uX6Dw-7A&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;How to Find the Perfect Print Settings For Your 3D Printer&lt;/a&gt;.  They went on to recommend this process be undertaken each time a new roll of filament is loaded in the printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I consider the method to be a good suggestion, as I find the suggestion &amp;quot;Pick a test print you like (such as Benchy) and repeat it with different tuning until you find your preferred limits.&amp;quot; to be a potentially very wasteful and nonproductive proposition to an inexperienced user.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Footnote&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; Directly calibrating the accuracy of the indicator for the temperature sensor inside the extruder would be no small feat, and as has been mentioned above would likely be of little value.  If absolutely necessary it would probably best be done with a small gauge wire twisted Type &amp;quot;T&amp;quot; thermocouple wire tip inserted directly into the extruder nozzle if possible.  Using an IR thermometer not would be appropriate due to the size of the target vs the IR thermometer's field of view and the emissivity of the nozzle as you have already observed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:29:41.667" LastActivityDate="2019-08-30T20:12:27.480" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="1035" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-21T20:09:32.627" Score="5" ViewCount="178" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some have suggested that filament costs are asymptotically approaching a baseline cost - others that costs are linearly decreasing. Does anyone know where to find the trending costs on a single class of filament over the past decade or more?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Part of the reason we are asking is to get enough longitudinal data to begin projecting costs for printing objects in the future. You might think of it like the &quot;Moore's Law&quot; of filament costs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1505" LastEditorUserId="1505" LastEditDate="2016-04-27T04:11:48.137" LastActivityDate="2016-04-27T04:11:48.137" Title="Trend in Filament Costs?" Tags="|filament|cost|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1036" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1035" CreationDate="2016-04-21T20:50:16.030" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could have a look though the various price trackers for Amazon (like &lt;a href=&quot;http://uk.camelcamelcamel.com/Kg-Yellow-MakerGear-Ultimaker-THING-O-MATIC-Universal/product/B00MVKOSM8?context=browse&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;ccc&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;https://thetracktor.com/detail/B010P3EE6W/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;thetractor&lt;/a&gt;), for some basic trends. Most of them does not seem to have sufficient data to give any valuable insight, but that could change.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In general, I would refer to the yearly and monthly &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.3dhubs.com/trends&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;trend reports found on 3D Hubs&lt;/a&gt;. They usually include the average filament order costs per filament type from the previous 30 days, although they do not display it as a continuous graph at this time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="115" LastActivityDate="2016-04-21T20:50:16.030" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1038" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="857" CreationDate="2016-04-23T18:04:42.637" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, this is normal. Your printer is, at first, probably going downward with some speed. When it hits the end-stop it has some momentum and doesn't stop right away. So once it hits the end-stop, it has to physically stop the print head and move upward again slightly to get to the right position.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1466" LastEditorUserId="1615" LastEditDate="2016-04-30T15:14:36.317" LastActivityDate="2016-04-30T15:14:36.317" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1039" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1026" CreationDate="2016-04-23T18:20:43.190" Score="-3" Body="&lt;p&gt;you could put a 3 mm extruder on you're printer. or (if you're r brave) put route filament in the oven for 10 minutes and unroll it than stretch it out. if you do this outside you can attach one ent to a stride licht or something an pul on the other end, if it is hot anoth it should hold its new position. but don't get it to hot or the filament will stick to itself, you can put talk powder on it to prevent this but be shore to watch it off before using your filament. i have never tried this and not komw is it will work. you can try it on i short pease of about 2 m first to test it oud. if it works, please tell me. i would love to know.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1466" LastActivityDate="2016-04-23T18:20:43.190" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1040" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-24T10:03:29.390" Score="4" ViewCount="435" Body="&lt;p&gt;My Makerbot Replicactor V2 constantly jams. Usually when I go to use it after it's been off for a few hours the filament has jammed and I have to take off the front fan to remove the filament. Today, after going through the usual rigmarole of having to take the front fan and fan guard off, remove the filament, cut it and then load it back in I found that there was another problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It appears something is jammed inside the hot end itself. When I loaded the filament back into the machine, it took it but nothing came out of the nozzle, instead it all pooled up around the aluminium mounting block where the filament feeds through.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/M0BM0.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/M0BM0.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Here is one of the current situation i&amp;#39;m facing. As you can see, there&amp;#39;s filament that has set inside the hole it is fed through. There is clearly something in there that is blocking it&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a couple more pictures, the last one is basically what happens to me on a regular basis: &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sZ784.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sZ784.jpg&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How should I go about fixing this? I've already cleaned the extruder nozzle, but unsure as how best to proceed with this. I would prefer to get this fixed fairly soon as I need to 3d print files for a uni assessment piece.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1210" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2018-07-08T10:39:20.423" LastActivityDate="2018-07-08T10:39:20.423" Title="Would appreciate advice on unclogging hot end [Makerbot Replicator v2]" Tags="|extruder|hotend|maintenance|makerbot-replicator2|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1042" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1040" CreationDate="2016-04-24T13:23:58.143" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;For molten filament to jam at the inlet to the thermal barrier tube like shown here, there must be something wrong with the cooling in your setup. The cold zone needs to be cool for the extruder to work right. It looks like the cold zone is not staying below the glass point of the plastic, so the filament softens and mashes into a jam. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are some common causes of jamming in Replicator 2 extruders:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Printer's environment is too hot. If it's in a hot garage, move it indoors. If you have it inside an enclosure or cabinet, open it up to let it breathe. All-metal extruders with PLA are very sensitive to ambient temp. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Not having good contact between the heatsink and the cooling bar. Normally, just bolting them together is fine, but a small amount of of thermal grease (like Arctic Silver) smeared over the contact surface can help too.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Not having the fan pointed the right way. You want the fan to blow ONTO the heatsink: this provides more turbulent flow and better cooling. This means you should not see the fan sticker when everything is assembled.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fan dying and and spinning too slow. A new fan can be a good idea. (24v fans only!) Or you can try gently peeling off the fan sticker and adding a single drop of light oil (like 3-in-one) to the bearing, then re-attaching the sticker.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Using non-stock thermal barrier tubes that do not have the correct internal geometry. Lots of people sell bad tubes that don't have the &quot;secret sauce&quot; (internal diameter step). The four good vendors I'm aware of for this part are Makerbot, &lt;a href=&quot;https://shop.raffle.ch/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Carl Raffle&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.micro-swiss.com/#!product-page/cv9c/486618f3-3e55-0d63-e3b0-f94eb2277b58&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Micro Swiss&lt;/a&gt;, and &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.p3-d.com/collections/replacements-parts/products/thermal-barrier-tubes&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Performance 3D&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&quot;Floating&quot; the thermal barrier threads by tightening jam nuts on both top and bottom of the cooling bar. All-metal extruder designs require good contact pressure between the thermal barrier tube threads and the cooling bar, to ensure maximum heat transfer. The best approach is to put one jam nut below the bar to forcibly push the thermal barrier tube threads into the cooling bar, and no nut on top. (Using just one nut on top is better than two nuts, but worse than one nut below.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's also possible that there is some material partially blocking the nozzle, which is contributing to molten plastic backup up and jamming. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I would recommend right now is removing both the nozzle and thermal barrier tube from the printer, and either replacing them or fully cleaning them out. There are multiple options. You can preheat the hot end with the cooling bar in a vise or on a metal surface with no fans attached, to heat up the plastic in the thermal barrier tube and allow you to push the blockage through with a small allen key. Then do something to REALLY clean it out, like nylon cold-pulls, or cooking the parts in a blue flame such as a torch or gas stove. Then check for internal debris with something like a toothpick. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you can see through the nozzle orifice and there's no junk inside anything, reassemble everything properly and try again. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="298" LastActivityDate="2016-04-24T13:23:58.143" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1043" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-24T14:33:10.113" Score="15" ViewCount="1193" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since I'm running a 3D printing facility of an engineering school, students are always wondering how much infill percentage affects the stiffness of the part. I know that it is impossible to get a numerical solution for this question, but maybe there is an option to simulate in software an already sliced model. I haven't seen in any slicer an option to export as .stl or .step or any other format which can be accepted by simulation software. Has anyone seen or thought about something similar? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="787" LastEditorUserId="854" LastEditDate="2017-03-25T22:55:18.577" LastActivityDate="2017-03-25T22:55:18.577" Title="Choose infill percentage" Tags="|cad|infill|analysis|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1044" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1043" CreationDate="2016-04-24T18:56:57.267" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't believe that slicing engines create any sort of solid model that would be useful for CAD simulation. When a slicing engine slices a 3D model, it's goal is to spit out the preferred machine paths in G-Code (of some kind). However, I've read a few articles, done some tests, and heard through the grape vine that anywhere between 10%-35% is good enough for most applications. I once watched a webinar for understanding the new MakerWare interface that explained how they chose such settings. Although I can't find the clip directly, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.makerbot.com/resources/webinars&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; is the page for all of MakerBot's webinars. I think &lt;a href=&quot;http://pages.makerbot.com/intro-makerbot-desktop-software-webinar.html?utm_source=leadgen&amp;amp;utm_medium=resource-center&amp;amp;utm_content=webinar&amp;amp;utm_campaign=rc-intro-makerbot-desktop-webinar&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; webinar was the one I watched explaining a little bit about preferred infill percentages.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From experience, anything over 35% doesn't yield much more strength from infill side of things. Beyond 35% and you're going to want to reconsider how you're orienting the print when you print it and what you're printing to utilize the grain structure for proper strength.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, infill percentage/patterns are not the only variable for creating strong parts. Infill is really just a way to save time and material. Here are some other ways to potentially increase strength:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Increase your shell. Shell is the number of profile patterns per layer. Typically (in FDM/FFF), each shell is &lt;strong&gt;about&lt;/strong&gt; the diameter of your extruder nozzle.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Increase your floor/roof. Similar to shell, floor/roof refers to the number of layers that make up the &quot;bottom&quot; and &quot;top&quot; of the part with regard to the build plate.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Print orientation. Pay attention to which areas of the part are susceptible to strain along the &quot;grain&quot; of the layers. Try to rotate your part on the build plate in a way that minimizes potential failure both in print and post-print use.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Post process. Don't be afraid to do some post-processing to increase the strength. There are &lt;a href=&quot;https://markforged.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;some 3D printers on the market&lt;/a&gt; that go as far as including Kevlar strands in the printing process to beef up their prints. However, it may be as simple as just coating the part in an epoxy with some basic finishing techniques. It's a bit more work, but it turns weak 3D printed parts into full production quality prints.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update:&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;Based on some of the comments, it sounds like your best bet might be to find a custom application that can either convert the g-code file into a solid model (try CAM software?), or create a plugin for your CAD software (I know Unigraphics NX and Solidworks allow for this) and essentially recreate your own slicing engine that takes your solid model and generates the same infill pattern dynamically inside.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Perhaps look into the works of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.simlab-soft.com/index.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Simlab&lt;/a&gt; or similar which has a lot of 3D software plugins. I'm not promoting them and I don't work for them, this is just a reference of what to look for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="98" LastEditorUserId="98" LastEditDate="2016-04-25T14:48:43.650" LastActivityDate="2016-04-25T14:48:43.650" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1045" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-24T19:35:02.150" Score="1" ViewCount="96" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;(This question is a kind of self-answer. I know who built this printer, he explained the modifications, and I thought it might be interesting for others too. I've asked him to answer this question, to keep this information on Stack Exchange. I realize this question in its current form may be &quot;Too Broad&quot;, feel free to edit to make it more specific).&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I saw this Kossel Mini printer, and noted that it has some modifications. I'm told this is to make it easier to transport, and would like to know how these modifications make it more robust and more transportable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HKKMH.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Kossel Mini printer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HKKMH.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Kossel Mini printer&quot; title=&quot;Kossel Mini printer&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="65" LastEditorUserId="4927" LastEditDate="2018-09-04T08:30:16.070" LastActivityDate="2018-09-04T08:30:16.070" Title="What are the modifications on this Kossel?" Tags="|kossel|ruggedised-printer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ClosedDate="2016-04-29T18:11:50.243" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="1046" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1045" CreationDate="2016-04-24T19:53:50.043" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cool you placed my Kossel Mini on Stackexchange!&#xA;What I have modified to the standard kit:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Retractable probe using RC Marlin (Rich Cattels Marlin with auto bed probe functionality). Never have to adjust endstops after it is once setup.&#xA;All can be done in firmware.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Made a transport case, in the picture the cover is missing which is a triangular case which fits over the printer.&#xA;You can clip it on and the carry it with the handle on top.&#xA;I just throw it in the car and bring it to the Hackerspace and Hackerevents/Makerfaires and when I feel to it, I can do an auto-probe to align it again (which is hardly needed BTW)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Another mod is the Vaeder extruder, which is really cool in the way it uses a GT2 timing belt to drive the filament. It uses a round wheel and it drives the filament over 1/4 of the diameter of the wheel, so there is a 3 to 4&amp;nbsp;cm area where the belt drives the filament.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Advantages: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lots of retracts don't &quot;eat&quot; into the filament causing feed issues&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Doesn't flatten the filament. Keeps it nice and round.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Disadvantages (at this moment):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Not possible/ very hard to do filament swaps on the fly (to experiment with multicolor prints).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;First time assembly can be a head ache, once you have it assembled it really works and is easy going.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And last but not least. I made a foldable Roll holder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is mounted on top by two M8 screws with knobs. When I am done I undo these two screws, fold in the roll holder and it is then mounted to the side of the flight case. This way I can transport printer and roll holder carrying it only using 1 hand. So I use the other hand carrying the bag with accessories like rolls of filament, 3D spray, tweezers etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maybe this info helps other people new to 3D printing improve their printers, or enables them to bring printers more easily to meets and events to inspire others to build more Delta printers. As it's just mesmerizing to see them print. I love watching the print come to reality because it such beautiful piece of engineering!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="264" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-08-01T13:03:58.700" LastActivityDate="2018-08-01T13:03:58.700" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="1047" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-24T23:59:13.337" Score="4" ViewCount="2245" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Folgertech Prusa i3, on a Ramps 1.4 with Marlin and I use Repetier-Host to control it. I am attempting to convert it to a dual extruder Bowden setup, and I can't seem to get the second extruder to work, although the first works just fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is my problem:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am not getting a reading in Repetier-Host for the thermistor of the second extruder. It is at a constant 100C.&#xA;When I turn on the cartridge heater for the second extruder in Repetier-Host, the cartridge heater does not heat up. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is what I have done:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the second extruder, I connected the wires from the thermistor to the pins for T2 and the wires for the cartridge heater to D9.&#xA;I have not updated anything in the Marlin firmware.&#xA;In Repetier-Host, I selected that there are two extruders, and a second extruder is indicated under the 'manual controls' tab.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is what I have double checked:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I confirmed the second thermistor works because it indicates a proper temperature reading when plugging it in both T0 and T1.&#xA;I confirmed the second cartridge heater works because it heats up when connected to D10.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I apologize in advance if this is an amateur question, but I can't seem to find an answer anywhere. If somebody could at least point me in the right direction, or let me know if there is something I did not include in my post, I would really appreciate it, and hopefully it would help somebody else coming across a similar problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1266" LastEditorUserId="1266" LastEditDate="2016-04-25T00:31:11.557" LastActivityDate="2016-04-30T21:22:50.340" Title="Prusa i3 Dual Extruder Setup Issues" Tags="|prusa-i3|ramps-1.4|software|marlin|dual-nozzle|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1048" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1043" CreationDate="2016-04-25T05:55:55.580" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since I am not able to comment on this question yet, I thought I would provide an answer in addition to the already helpful insight provided.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the question in general is regarding infill percentage, and the common follow-up regards part stiffness, then it should be explained that choosing infill percentage is much more than just part stiffness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Printing out tensile bars would be a great thing to have for educational purposes. The bars should not only vary in infill percentages, but in also the various infill patterns. Depending on the type of stresses and loads applied, different patterns may be stronger at lower infill rates, for example.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, the infill rate should correlate to the thickness of the bottom, top, and sidewalls. This is especially important with ABS when it comes to shrinkage, warping, and delayering. In order for the part to be universally as strong as possible, as the part cools, it must shrink evenly. This is a well known factor for machinists creating molds for injection molding and casting. Otherwise, you may have unintended additional points of weaknesses arise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lastly, if creating tensile bars, make sure to take into account the shrinkage experienced along each axis, for each individual example. I would also suggest cutting each one open, as well as attempting to break a few of the apart (in a very crude way). This could stimulate a lot of thought when designing a part, before printing it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1266" LastActivityDate="2016-04-25T05:55:55.580" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1049" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1035" CreationDate="2016-04-26T07:03:46.590" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not clear as to the intent of your question, but I would like to provide some insight. Typically, the biggest differentiating factor between a mediocre data scientist, and a good one, is based on the hypothesis they put forth. Therefore, understanding where the cost of filament is derived from is much more important than analyzing the market price equilibrium over a period of time (Even if done with consideration to various filament types).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are some basic costs:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Raw material (the cost based on region, and grade)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Manufacturing scale (Mixers, extruders, cooling, spooling, packaging, etc.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Shipping (Often 50% of cost for small quantities)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Supply chain (Number of middle men)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Without going into detail of every preceding point, I was able to break down costs to a theoretical $10/kg for ABS, if starting with virgin pellets, and shipping flat rate USPS within the US. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The point that I am trying to make is, fundamentals over technical analysis in this case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1266" LastActivityDate="2016-04-26T07:03:46.590" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1050" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5" CreationDate="2016-04-26T16:02:15.250" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;The problem is that it's almost impossible to answer the PLA/ABS question just by looking at the material characteristics as it is so dependent on the application and even the specific object you're printing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The decision guide in this &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cubicity.com/blog/knowledge-base/abs-vs-pla-infographic-decision-guide&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;infographic&lt;/a&gt; covers the following points that usually should be involved when deciding between ABS and PLA:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Ventilation&lt;/strong&gt; - I wouldn't recommend putting your nose into the printer with any material, but being exposed to ABS fumes is likely a lot worse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Heated Bed&lt;/strong&gt; - This is an easy one: Without one, PLA should be your choice. If you do have one though, it might improve adhesion of PLA as well (set to ~60C instead of 90C-110C for ABS)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Exposure to Heat or Mechanical Stress&lt;/strong&gt; - ABS would be the preferred choice as PLA melts at lower temperatures (it might start to deform when left in your car in the summer) and ABS can endure more bend before breaking.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Of course even ABS has upper limits and you might want to consider other materials like &lt;em&gt;Polycarbonate&lt;/em&gt; for extreme applications.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;On the other hand there are newer materials that share many PLA features (biodegradable, no heat bed required) but are more similar to ABS in their mechanical properties (e.g. BioFila Linen) and temperature stability (e.g. Advanced PLA, ExcelFil EVO).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Printer Enclosure&lt;/strong&gt; - Not a must-have for using ABS, but especially objects with large footprints are susceptible to warping when they cool too fast. A fully enclosed printer ensures a slow and even cooling process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Post Processing&lt;/strong&gt; - Often an afterthought, but ABS has a slight advantage here as it is a little easier to sand and you have the option of working with acetone (which I personally wouldn't mess with unless you REALLY need to).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Print Temperature&lt;/strong&gt; - Roughly 190C-220C for PLA and 220C-240C for ABS, so be sure that your printer can go high enough to extrude ABS.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Biodegradability&lt;/strong&gt; - PLA is biodegradable (under specific circumstances) which is a consideration when printing test objects, prototypes and other objects that will be discarded.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1565" LastEditorUserId="1565" LastEditDate="2016-04-27T16:51:03.917" LastActivityDate="2016-04-27T16:51:03.917" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1051" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1055" CreationDate="2016-04-27T04:15:08.270" Score="5" ViewCount="996" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd like to find an opensource software that communicates directly with the RAMPS board (or any other 3D printer driver) without using the arduino...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It doesn't matter if it runs on Windows or linux as long as it's opensource. Also, I'm not worried about how this communication is done (USB, serial port, parallel port)...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has anyone ever heard about projects like this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1125" LastEditorUserId="1125" LastEditDate="2016-04-27T04:32:59.137" LastActivityDate="2016-05-03T15:46:29.070" Title="Is there any opensource software that controls the RAMPS RepRap board directly from the computer?" Tags="|ramps-1.4|software|open-source|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1052" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1051" CreationDate="2016-04-27T07:58:53.917" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, there exists no software like that. You can't communicate with a RAMPs board because a RAMPs board has no logic built-in; it's just a dumb breakout board that connects the Arduino Mega to your printer's components (such as stepper drivers, MOSFETs for controlling heaters, endstops,...).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you wanted to connect a RAMPs board &quot;directly&quot; to your computer, you'd need a way for your computer to generate the pulses that the Arduino normally generates. You could potentially use a parallel port for this but you'd need many more outputs than a single parallel port can provide &lt;em&gt;and&lt;/em&gt; you'd need to find a way to do the analog to digital conversion needed for the thermistors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's just not very feasible (considering how few computers have parallel ports nowadays).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastActivityDate="2016-04-27T07:58:53.917" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1053" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1054" CreationDate="2016-04-27T13:12:32.580" Score="1" ViewCount="456" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Google Sketchup, I have text on a surface that I'd like to push / pull so that the text is etched into, rather than placed upon the surface.  I can't seem to figure this out, the text disappears when I try to push it into the surface and I'm not quite sure what else to try.  Any advice?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="943" LastEditorUserId="943" LastEditDate="2016-04-27T13:18:04.677" LastActivityDate="2016-04-27T14:30:19.310" Title="Pushing Text into surface - Google Sketchup" Tags="|3d-design|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2016-05-21T05:34:50.207" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1054" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1053" CreationDate="2016-04-27T14:30:19.310" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Definitely you have to perform substract operation.&#xA;Take a look &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=inwYs-Fs-mM&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Extrude text and then substract it from the object to etch in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1211" LastActivityDate="2016-04-27T14:30:19.310" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1055" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1051" CreationDate="2016-04-27T20:39:16.390" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The key question is not really if there is such software, but rather if such software is possible, or if it would work very well.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While a printer is more than just stepper motors, those are one of the trickiest parts, so it makes sense to look primarily at that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Back in the old days of personal computing, it was not uncommon to generate stepper motor signals from the CPU of a personal computer, using individually settable bits on either a special purpose interface (that is in fact basically how the head in a floppy drive was typically moved) or borrowing another available interface such as a parallel printer port.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But then two things happened: computers got faster, but more isolated from the world, and operating systems in common use became much more strict in what they permitted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To move a high resolution stepper at a decent speed, you need to generate either step pulses or winding activation signals at a fairly high rate.  And to accelerate and decelerate a motor under load, you need to finely vary their timing.  Back when I/O ports hung directly off processor buses, and operating systems could not prevent programs from speeding up the system hardware timer in order to run a stepper routine rapidly, this worked to a degree.  But today:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Most PC class processors have little, if any directly coupled I/O - especially by the time you get outside the box.  An interface like USB is great for moving a large amount of data per unit time, but it is absolutely horrible for accomplishing a trivial task with precise, frequent timing - it is a freight train, not a bicycle courier.  Many of the things which let a processor internally operate quickly specifically work by decoupling it from an outside world that often cannot keep up - memory caches, bus exchange units, etc.  If you do find a parallel port today, it is likely to be on the far side of a PCI bus bridge at the least, and have a different low-level interface than a legacy one.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Modern operating systems have a time-slice scheduler which &quot;owns&quot; the CPU(s) and hands out small chunks of processing time to ordinary programs.  These programs typically get to run often enough to appear responsive to the user, but not frequently enough to accurately drive stepper motors.  There are various schemes which have been tried, for example to create a &quot;hard real time&quot; scheduler which owns the processor, and allows a motor control task to register for precisely needed time slices - then, with whatever time is left over a Linux or Windows or similar kernel is allowed to run, and divide up the remaining time among ordinary programs through its scheduling rules.  Of course, such a scheme tends to need to be revised each time the utilized conventional operating system has a new major release.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While there are ways around these issues, they tend to require atypical hardware and deep changes to the operating system installation - making them neither inexpensive nor easy to setup for end users.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Instead, it is generally simpler and more cost effective (not even $10 these days) to put an embedded processor on an external circuit board, and have it act as a delegate to execute precise-timing tasks on behalf of the host processor.  Somewhat extending from the idea of industrial CNC machines that originally read punched paper tape, and were later updated with a scheme where an ordinary computer &quot;drip feeds&quot; G-code commands over a serial port, modern 3D Printers tend to deliver G-code (or other) command data a little bit in advance of when it is needed, so that the latency of a USB or serial connection doesn't really matter.  Normally enough data is buffered on the printer for it to keep running, but even if not it would only pause briefly between the complete moves which are transmitted, not experience motor stuttering as it would if the USB were trying to deliver each individual step pulse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for why an Arduino - probably mostly the history of who built the machines which kicked off the enthusiast printing trend.  If someone from an industrial background were tasked with building something like an FDM printer or a machine with similar motion needs in isolation today, chances are they would end up with an ARM processor that would be a bit faster, more flexible, and with more resources, and likely cost a little less.  But in actual history, the early affordable machines were built by those in maker community, who were already familiar with the availability of the Arduino, and willing to put some cleverness into getting good motion out of its limitations.  RAMPS in particular seems designed to be a coarse-pitch through-hole bridge that a hobbyist could build themselves, and then buy the slightly trickier to work with surface mount processor and motor drive chips preassembled in the form of an Arduino Mega and stepper drive modules.  That even fairly propriety machines maintain these basic parts choices is probably an indication of the utility of not &quot;reinventing the wheel&quot; - if you want to develop a printer, you can start from available components and customize them only one by one as you choose, rather than not being able to run your development prototype until you get a working circuit board designed and fabbed, a working software base developed, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1378" LastEditorUserId="1378" LastEditDate="2016-05-03T15:46:29.070" LastActivityDate="2016-05-03T15:46:29.070" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1057" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1026" CreationDate="2016-04-28T05:05:48.383" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You will need to melt it push it through a hopper, screw thread, &#xA;then draw it out at a constant pressure, with a water bath plus a sensor to check diameter. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1586" LastActivityDate="2016-04-28T05:05:48.383" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1058" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1059" CreationDate="2016-04-28T12:15:26.643" Score="4" ViewCount="152" Body="&lt;p&gt;The wiki page for the &lt;a href=&quot;http://reprap.org/wiki/Rambo&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;RAMBo board&lt;/a&gt; mentions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Step and Direction pins are on their own ports for synchronous movement capability&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What does this mean, and how does it affect printing? Do I need special firmware to take advantage of this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastActivityDate="2016-04-29T17:57:39.593" Title="What does it mean for step and dir &quot;to be on their own ports&quot;?" Tags="|electronics|firmware|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1059" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1058" CreationDate="2016-04-29T02:00:33.500" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;A &quot;port&quot; for the AVR microcontroller is a set of eight IO pins that are controlled together at a hardware level. The underlying machine code can write an entire byte to set the status of all 8 pins at once. So in principle, all the step pins on the RAMBO board can be triggered exactly simultaneously. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Arduino IDE hides this behavior from firmwares by abstracting the port's byte handling as a function call for each individual pin. That means programmers only have to know the Arduino PIN number, not which port and position on the processor is being used. And then the modern firmwares typically used by RAMBO do a further layer of abstraction to make it easy for the same firmware to be used by different boards, by changing pin assigned names in a config file (usually pins.h) and not assuming any specific port selection was made during board design.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's no guarantee for open-source firmware that a particular pin selection was made in hardware. Lots of 3D printer controller boards even have pretty dumb pin assignments, like using hardware-PWM-capable pins for stepper signals rather than PWM'd heaters. Marlin and Repetier have chosen flexibility over performance optimization in this regard. They pretty much let the board designer use any pin for anything. When they have to do stuff like run heater PWM control or fire a bunch of step pulses as fast as possible, they emulate that in software rather than taking advantage of specific hardware that isn't always available. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this specific case, there may not actually be all that much performance gain/loss. Writing to an output pin is pretty fast. The amount of time difference between firing a few step pulses in sync or firing them sequentially is on the order of a few microseconds. That won't make any difference to the motion fidelity of the printer's physical drivetrains. Somebody involved in the RAMBO design just thought it could be useful, and put a reference to it on the Wiki page (in the very first upload!) and it's never been clarified or removed from the Wiki page in the years since. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="298" LastEditorUserId="298" LastEditDate="2016-04-29T17:57:39.593" LastActivityDate="2016-04-29T17:57:39.593" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1060" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5" CreationDate="2016-04-29T09:39:11.160" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;PLA (polylactic acid) melts at a lower temp and does not warp AS BADLY when cooled. It is non-toxic (in USA it comes from cornstarch, beets in some countries, or tapioca root)&#xA;It is less flexible than ABS, could rip or crumble.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;ABS (Acrylonitrile Butadiene Styrene) is a harder and more sturdy plastic. (What Legos are made of). A heated bed is used to keep it from cooling too fast, as warping can be a problem is you cool it too fast (being close to an exterior door or an air vent) An enclosed printer helps regulate temp and avoids SOME of this problem. Some people get headaches from the smell of molten ABS over a prolonged time. It flexes better than PLA. Can be sanded or cut easily and maintain integrity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Beware of CHEAP ABS as it may contain a higher amount of HCN (Hydrogen Cyanide)&#xA;that can be released when used (but usually around 1 part per million, about one fourth the dangerous limit.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;GOOD&quot; ABS CAN contain HCN as well, but it is not released by &quot;normal&quot; printing temperatures. (avoid burning ABS or Nylon)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;so, all in all:&#xA;PLA is safe/non-toxic, biodegradable, uses less energy to print, less flexible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;ABS is harder, sturdier, will last nearly forever (if not bent or stressed or frozen). Somewhat flexible and will snap back. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1609" LastEditorUserId="1609" LastEditDate="2016-05-01T10:22:01.370" LastActivityDate="2016-05-01T10:22:01.370" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1061" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1043" CreationDate="2016-04-30T02:33:55.123" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're an engineering class, you may very well print out big cubes of different infils and test them. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="107" LastActivityDate="2016-04-30T02:33:55.123" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1062" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1047" CreationDate="2016-04-30T21:22:50.340" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Thanks to the comments, I was able to narrow down the specific issues in the firmware. The firmware version was really out of date, so I recommend finding the latest stable version.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Therefore, I found the latest stable version of Marlin, downloaded it, and created my own edited version. I went line by line in &lt;code&gt;configuration.h&lt;/code&gt; and &lt;code&gt;configuration_adv.h&lt;/code&gt;, with the old version I had side by side to the newer version, making any and all appropriate changes. Below are the lines I found most important to evaluate when setting up a second extruder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Make sure the you have the right board selected from &lt;code&gt;boards.h&lt;/code&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#define MOTHERBOARD 34&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Make sure the # of extruders is specified:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#define EXTRUDERS 2&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Make sure the sensor is active:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#define TEMP_SENSOR_0 6&#xA;#define TEMP_SENSOR_1 6&#xA;#define TEMP_SENSOR_2 0&#xA;#define TEMP_SENSOR_BED 6&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This should be considered:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#define HEATER_0_MAXTEMP 240&#xA;#define HEATER_1_MAXTEMP 240&#xA;#define HEATER_2_MAXTEMP 240&#xA;#define BED_MAXTEMP 90&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Everything under this comment should be looked at:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;// Preheat Constants&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These would allocate the second extruder for other motors:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#define Z_DUAL_STEPPER_DRIVERS&#xA;#define Y_DUAL_STEPPER_DRIVERS&#xA;#define DUAL_X_CARRIAGE&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm sure there are other parameters I may have missed, and these are specific to my Prusa i3, but I hope this helps out anybody else in the future. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1266" LastActivityDate="2016-04-30T21:22:50.340" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1063" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1064" CreationDate="2016-04-30T22:06:39.797" Score="1" ViewCount="143" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a flashforge creator dual.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From time to time while printing a model I notice when there are abrupt changes in direction, that a few &quot;Grains&quot; of old filament fall out from the head.  Generally they end up embedded in the print which is not a big deal, but sometimes they get into a visible portion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can mitigate this somewhat by disassembling down to the gears, and blowing out all of the old filament.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is two fold&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;&quot;What is causing these chips to accumulate near the gears?&quot;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&quot;Is there something I can do to resolve this issue?&quot;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1397" LastActivityDate="2016-05-01T06:44:01.667" Title="Print contaminated by chips of previous filament colors" Tags="|print-quality|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1064" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1063" CreationDate="2016-05-01T06:28:04.357" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;My bet is your extruder knurls are scratching the filament. If it happens for specific filament then probably it doesn't keep its diameter. It means you can avoid these grains by using better filament.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it happens always then you could do 3 things&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;reduce stress on the spring which pushes filament to extruder gear&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;make extruder gear less sharp&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;eventually change the great itself&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1211" LastEditorUserId="1211" LastEditDate="2016-05-01T06:44:01.667" LastActivityDate="2016-05-01T06:44:01.667" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1065" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1081" CreationDate="2016-05-01T06:42:46.247" Score="1" ViewCount="466" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hey so theres a product we have been prototyping. &#xA;We cant do FDM. The item has a ball valve. &#xA;and the ball ~ 1.6-1.9mm &#xA;I cant seem to prototype it. I have tried SLS, SLA, Polyjet. &#xA;Anybody knows what could be wrong, or what should be the dimension i should be using?&#xA;I thought I would post this at engineering section, but since I have to prototype I thought its best if its in 3D Printing section&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0neFf.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0neFf.png&quot; alt=&quot;Ball is 2mm in dia. clearance of 0.1mm is used &quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Update: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Byftf.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Byftf.png&quot; alt=&quot;Figure explains the direction of air&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So heres a figure showing the direction of air flow. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Update: &#xA;Thanks both answers are helpful. though not a precise answer. Then again, there is no correct answer. &#xA;Thanks a bunch. Lets see how the coming months are. :p&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1586" LastEditorUserId="1586" LastEditDate="2016-05-03T19:31:29.807" LastActivityDate="2016-05-03T19:31:29.807" Title="Ball valve to be prototyped" Tags="|3d-design|rapid-prototyping|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1066" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-01T09:34:01.923" Score="5" ViewCount="656" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there any type of software in which you can animate the way the .stl object will be printed? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not talking about what the end result looks like. I'm talking about a tool which acts like it's printing the given object as an animation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know it somehow depends on your printer but is there anything I can use?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1628" LastEditorDisplayName="user144" LastEditDate="2017-05-12T11:11:26.920" LastActivityDate="2017-05-12T11:11:26.920" Title="Preview 3d printing process" Tags="|3d-design|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1067" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1066" CreationDate="2016-05-01T11:32:50.067" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You may wish to consider &lt;a href=&quot;https://craftunique.com/craftware&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Craftware&lt;/a&gt; for your purposes. It's a free program in beta form that does provide a tool-path animation for printing the layers. It is not so much specific to a printer as it is configurable for your own requirements. &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dv_WxUm1JC8&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;The video&lt;/a&gt; shows what I believe you are seeking at about the two minute point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Simplify3D also provides such information, but is not a free program.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastActivityDate="2016-05-01T11:32:50.067" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1069" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1066" CreationDate="2016-05-01T12:48:13.373" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The open source slicing engine, &lt;a href=&quot;http://slic3r.org/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Slic3r&lt;/a&gt;, also allow for such a preview. The preview is not animated, but you can see the path that your printer will follow for each layer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To do this, simply upload a model and press the &lt;em&gt;preview&lt;/em&gt; button in the lower part of your screen. To select which layer to preview, use the slider on the right of the preview window.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="115" LastActivityDate="2016-05-01T12:48:13.373" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1070" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1043" CreationDate="2016-05-01T14:07:59.053" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I could think of a way. But it might require a few softwares to get everything done. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First get the CAD file. &#xA;Import to magics (Materialise proprietary software)&#xA;There is a function for structures, you can build your custom internal structure. So add trusses etc. &#xA;Export stl. (There is one software which allows direct stl to step conversion, I think its called Instep)&#xA;Or i think you could reduce mesh density and use FreeCAD to convert it back to step and run your analysis. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It would be intersting to see a report on the part. &#xA;Also there is no good way of simulating a 3d printed part. &#xA;Maybe the closest would be with composites. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1586" LastActivityDate="2016-05-01T14:07:59.053" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1071" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1066" CreationDate="2016-05-01T22:36:48.357" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm using &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mattercontrol.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;MatterControl&lt;/a&gt; and it has such visualization. User can see synchronized animation which shows how the object is actually printed and user is able to see each path of filament put onto the layer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's possible to control starting and ending position so it's possible to precisely visualize each milimiter of filament even between start and end point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;MatterControl also visualizes extrude flow so if user set extrude to 150% or 200% then application shows wider &quot;line&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All of it can be seen in 2D (from top view) and in 3D (perspective view).&#xA;There is also possible to see overlay (by transparency) and print speed (visualized by color).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;MatterControl also shows non-printing moves and retraction points and their hight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1211" LastActivityDate="2016-05-01T22:36:48.357" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1072" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-02T02:10:34.873" Score="4" ViewCount="489" Body="&lt;p&gt;My MakerBot 2 jams after a couple hours of prints. It is a couple months old, and the tip stops extruding after a couple straight hours of prints. I am guessing that there is a design flaw and that the media is melting inside the extruder before the feeding teeth. Does anyone have experience with this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1634" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-07-03T06:58:29.370" LastActivityDate="2020-04-12T06:10:07.237" Title="My MakerBot 2 jams after a couple hours of prints" Tags="|makerbot|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="1073" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1072" CreationDate="2016-05-02T05:05:16.313" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;As you stated, it could be a result of the material beginning to melt before the extruder. Here's a few things to look out for:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is your extruder temperature appropriate for the material? Typical printing temperatures can range anywhere from 200 - 225&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C for PLA (depending on the supplier). Often, if the extruder is too hot, the material will bubble or over extrude.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is the material of proper quality? There's a reason MakerBot Industries wants you to use their filament (besides putting their hands in your pocket book), and that is repeatability. They've tested their filament on their hardware and ensured that the material will extrude with regular print settings.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is the material being stored properly? Sometimes people forget to store PLA in a dry place to avoid absorbing moisture in the filament. If moisture is absorbed, it can perform poorly in the print. Indications of moisture can include a slight steam from the extruder and/or bubbles in the extruded material (similar to overheating).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Are the fans operating correctly? If the fans aren't running or aren't running enough, the filament begins to heat further up the extrusion assembly (closer to the drive gear) which can inhibit extrusion. I know that MakerWare/MakerBot Desktop has been updated lately with more emphasis on controlling fans for active cooling, so make sure that your fan(s) are operating for duration of the print as necessary.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All and all, your filament is getting too hot. If you can't determine the sudden change, consider printing with a lower extruder temperature from now on. However, if you're using MakerBot filament (or similar quality) then I would definitely verify that your machine is calibrated, wires are fully connected, and settings are double checked. If all is as expected, then you should call MakerBot support (since they're closed source now, they technically have an obligation to help you) especially since the machine is so new.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="98" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-07-03T06:59:21.953" LastActivityDate="2019-07-03T06:59:21.953" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="1074" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1072" CreationDate="2016-05-02T05:45:06.053" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Check if your tapes on your extruder have worn out. &#xA;If that is the case,&#xA;the heat will travel into the motor. when it pushes the filament through the ambient temperature is greater than the temperature of defrom of PLA (~70&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C). When this happens the filament starts bending inside and clogs inside. &#xA;This is one case only. You could hear a small repeated noise, also the motor will be extremely hot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: Also make sure your fans are running at speed. sometimes due to improper wiring it runs at 30-50&amp;nbsp;%. just give it a light tap. The speed difference is visually noticeable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1586" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-07-03T06:59:57.350" LastActivityDate="2019-07-03T06:59:57.350" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="1075" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1065" CreationDate="2016-05-02T12:55:16.230" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;As mentioned above in the comments, this really isn't a good application of 3D Printing. At least, not with expectation that it functions. I'd suggest using 3D printing to verify other dimensions and having the part machined traditionally. That ball and &quot;seal&quot; needs to be precision ground or honed to fit in order to stop air flow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My company has manufactured parts similar to this and the way to go was to produce a concave &quot;cup&quot; for the ball to settle into and hone the edges with a diamond slush using a ball end mill. That way, the ball settles into the cup and the pressure creates the seal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Omitted due to update in OP's image&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;s&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;Excuse the poor SketchUp drawing, but this might help explain a potential design change:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PHCM4.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Deprecated image&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;/s&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please see &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/1065/ball-valve-to-be-prototyped/1075#1081&quot;&gt;DarthPixel's answer&lt;/a&gt; for a good design choice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="98" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T13:00:58.447" LastActivityDate="2016-05-03T14:15:26.393" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1076" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1082" CreationDate="2016-05-02T14:25:23.397" Score="3" ViewCount="729" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been interested in 3D printing for the past month however, I have noticed that it's sort of a &quot;reserved&quot; topic. Meaning that everyone who talks about it, has already some basic knowledge about the topic. What are some good resources for someone who wants to start learning from zero? My main goal is to acquire enough knowledge in order to build my own 3D printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1638" LastActivityDate="2024-02-28T09:49:09.430" Title="What is a good book to read about 3D printers?" Tags="|printer-building|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1077" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1076" CreationDate="2016-05-02T14:56:04.377" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The resources you have at your fingertips are going to be more up-to-date than anything you'll find in a paper/published book. Use this amazing thing called the internet and read everything you can find. Use Google or your favorite search engine using appropriate terms. I'd suggest, based on your overly broad question, that you use &quot;build your own 3d printer&quot; as a starting point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll find that &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.instructables.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Instructables&lt;/a&gt; is one useful resource as well as &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.makershed.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;MakerShed&lt;/a&gt; for additional material. You will find a very large source of helpful information at &lt;a href=&quot;http://3dprintboard.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;3dprintboard.com&lt;/a&gt; simply by reading others' posts there and at other forums as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is quite a bit to absorb and understand but with the internet at your fingertips, you won't be lacking for information.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastActivityDate="2016-05-02T14:56:04.377" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1078" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-02T15:58:04.713" Score="2" ViewCount="115" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can I use a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.newbiehack.com/categories/3d-printer-component-connector-male-2!54-pitch-newbiehack-connectors-male-2!54-pitch#prettyPhoto&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;pin header&lt;/a&gt; with the molex on my &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.kysanelectronics.com/graphics/1124090-8.3.15.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Nema 17 motors&lt;/a&gt; and a bread board to wire up the z-axis motors in series?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, do breadboards and pin headers have ratings, the way that wires do?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastActivityDate="2016-05-02T19:35:30.667" Title="Can I use a pin header in a breadboard to wire up the z-axis motors in parallel?" Tags="|printer-building|prusa-i3-rework|wiring|nema-17|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1079" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1078" CreationDate="2016-05-02T18:39:56.457" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could absolutely do that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ultimately, the amount of current you can push through a wire/breadboard/connector depends on its resistance: for a given current &lt;strong&gt;I&lt;/strong&gt;, a component with a resistance of &lt;strong&gt;R&lt;/strong&gt; will have a voltage drop of &lt;strong&gt;V = I x R&lt;/strong&gt; across it, resulting in a power dissipation of &lt;strong&gt;I^2 x R&lt;/strong&gt; watts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I measured the resistance of breadboard traces to be around 7 Ohm/meter (measurement subject to some error, but this is the value I got testing over a 300mm stretch at 0.2A). This is quite high, the wires that came with your stepper motor are probably in the range of 0.1 Ohm/meter. If you had a stepper running at 2A, you'd waste 28W of power in a meter of breadboard rails.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thankfully you're only going to be dealing with a very short stretch of breadboard (wasting &quot;only&quot; 0.8W for 4 wires over a 3 pin stretch each). It would probably be OK, but it's not ideal. Make sure the connection is good (and keep an eye on it initially) as a bad connection can result in significantly higher resistance and that might generate enough to melt your breadboard and short things out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A better way of doing this would be to simply solder the wires together, or (if you don't want to permanently connect the steppers) use the pin headers you mentioned, and solder them together directly (for example on a piece of perfboard or perhaps just link them up directly with a few pieces of thick wire).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastEditorUserId="26" LastEditDate="2016-05-02T19:35:30.667" LastActivityDate="2016-05-02T19:35:30.667" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1080" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-02T18:40:44.880" Score="8" ViewCount="3165" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to squeeze a little better quality out of my time lapses generated by OctoPrint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm using the Raspberry Pi Camera Module V2 with a Pi 3. I've already edited the Octopi config to get 720p resolution, but the encoding during time lapse rendering is horrific. Blocky as hell.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Right now the encoding is set up at 5000k.&#xA;What am I doing wrong here?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1641" LastActivityDate="2018-06-08T21:16:37.853" Title="OctoPi (Octoprint) time lapse quality issues" Tags="|octoprint|raspberry-pi|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1081" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1065" CreationDate="2016-05-03T06:13:49.987" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hey why to make it soooo sophisticated and poor?&#xA;Air valve cannot be designed with 2 stiff elements - it will never work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Make the air your friend but not the enemy. Use old good rubber (silicone) &quot;flake&quot; instead. Especially when you have such small design.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Take a look on the picture.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Sk4Lj.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Sk4Lj.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here you have black element which is rubber or silicone. It's sticked on one side. When air goes from the pipe (goes up) then rubber is slack so the air can flow. When you suck then rubber seals the pipe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;[edit]&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can find such solution in for example bike pumps, inflatable matterss pumps also gas masks and so on. It's pretty fine for low pressure. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course ball valves are also widely use but then such device has to have &quot;rubber&quot; ball nest so ball lies on the rubber ring to seal it. There has to be a spring to tight the ball to the ring. Without such spring turning the device upside down would cause the valve would not work at all.&#xA;Ball solutions are intended to higher pressure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please note the spring which tights a ball creates kinda threshold on the pressure level which means that pressure has to exceed a spring force to reduce a pressure. This doesn't occure in rubber valve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know what device you are trying to prototype but I'm pretty sure a rubber valve will be just fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please also note that sealing surface is very low in ball valve solution but in rubber valve it can be almost unlimited so it can seal quite well even when the surface is not perfect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1211" LastEditorUserId="1211" LastEditDate="2016-05-03T14:47:15.113" LastActivityDate="2016-05-03T14:47:15.113" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1082" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1076" CreationDate="2016-05-03T12:07:51.103" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can learn a lot just by reading the forums.  I'll just list a few that are quite popular...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://forums.reprap.org/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Reprap Forums&lt;/a&gt; - Has a ton of information on DIY printers including build logs and posts dealing with many issues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.soliforum.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Soliforum&lt;/a&gt; - Large user base with lots of information. Not sure what it's standing is now that Solidoodle is gone but I'm sure the forum will stick around.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://forum.seemecnc.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;SeeMeCNC&lt;/a&gt; - Support forum for SeeMeCNC, has a lot of information for Delta printers and also other printers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There aren't many books that I know of...Make magazine has done a few issues on 3D printing that you could try to obtain.  I'm not sure what your idea of building a printer is, do you want to design your own or follow someone's instructions and put one together?  Designing one would require some basic hardware and engineering knowledge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All that said, the best learning experience would be buying a kit and learning as you go.  You'll never read in a book what you will learn from having your own printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="233" LastActivityDate="2016-05-03T12:07:51.103" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1083" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1087" CreationDate="2016-05-03T16:21:48.817" Score="11" ViewCount="7004" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've printed mostly ABS in the past and encountered &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/#q=3d+printing+layer+delamination&quot;&gt;delamination&lt;/a&gt; between layers many times. I've ensured the following conditions regularly:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Build plate is level&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Base of print isn't warped (using ABS slurry)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Prevent air draft. I've added acrylic panels to the sides of the machine and the machine is in a custom cupboard.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Nozzle temperature at about 225C&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;HBP temperature at about 112C (I live in NW USA, so the ambient temperature is typically fairly cool).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Using MakerBot filament&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are some other variables to consider to help prevent delamination between layers?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="98" LastActivityDate="2019-04-06T21:35:53.730" Title="Layer delamination" Tags="|fdm|makerbot|abs|print-quality|delamination|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1084" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1083" CreationDate="2016-05-03T16:46:29.060" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know some could not fit your question but maybe someone will look for all possibilities.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Delamination can be caused by:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;filament&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;humidity&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;diameter&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;extruder&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;pressure (holdfast) - soft filament can be crumpled caused by extensive retraction)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;dirty jagger teeth (knurls)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;thermistor/wire failure - when it reports temp under ie 170C then extruder doesn't extrude&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;caret floatage (extruder motor cannot pull filament so it climbs)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;general&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;printing speed&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;temperature issue&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1211" LastEditorUserId="1211" LastEditDate="2016-05-03T19:00:18.093" LastActivityDate="2016-05-03T19:00:18.093" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1085" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1086" CreationDate="2016-05-03T18:08:00.367" Score="11" ViewCount="11439" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm using brand new PLA filament and am getting frequent clogs in my extruder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've had this problem with 2 different filaments from 2 different vendors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It will be print just fine, then clog up.  It doesn't ever seem to go more than 5 minutes before clogging. When it clogs, and I pull out the filament, it is always twisted in a spiral (helix) shape like a corkscrew.  I have put a picture of 2 clogs below.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have tried using temperature of 220 all the way down to 180 in increments of 5 degrees and seem to get the same result.  it prints the base layer GREAT on the 70 degree heated bed.  No warping or peeling off.  However, after a few layers, it clogs up and stops extruding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am using an HIC PRUSA I3 printer with a single extruder head.  I've only had the printer for a couple weeks.  It had been printing fine with ABS, but the ABS would peel up from the heated bed, so somebody suggested that I use PLA and hairspray.  Hairspray is AWESOME !!  It sticks really well and removes easily as well (once the bed cools a bit).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please let me know if you've had the same problem with the extruder just clogging up and twisting the filament into a corkscrew shape.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By the way, pay no attention to the black marks on the green filament below.  That's just me marking every half inch or so with a sharpie marker to see if it's still being extruded.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qKNR5.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qKNR5.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Filament Helix&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think I figured out the problem.  Now, to figure out a solution...&#xA;Take a look at the image below.  There is a 1 inch tube that goes from the heat element to the heat sink.  This 1 inch of tubing is REALLY hot and larger than 1.75mm.  So, the filament goes through that tube on its way to the head and gets soft in the tube because the tube is so hot all the way down to the head.  When the filament gets hot, it melts and bends and curls which makes it NOT push itself into the heated tip and out onto whatever I'm printing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The solution would be to find some way to cool this 1 inch shaft between the heat sink and the heated head so that the filament inside of it won't melt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas??? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hFkPM.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hFkPM.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Extruder Assembly&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a picture of my heat tip.  Note the shaft has about 1 inch sticking out of the heater.  The top of that (above the white arrow) is inside the heat sink.  But 3/4 inches of it are bare and uncovered.  There is also no teflon tube inside the metal throat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/i05Vo.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/i05Vo.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/08pZq.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/08pZq.png&quot; alt=&quot;Another picture of the extruder&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1647" LastEditorUserId="1647" LastEditDate="2016-05-04T20:01:18.673" LastActivityDate="2018-07-07T18:14:58.817" Title="Why does my PLA filament form a spiral shape and clog my extruder?" Tags="|filament|extruder|prusa-i3|pla|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1086" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1085" CreationDate="2016-05-03T18:30:59.747" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;The shape you get is quite easy to explain. It's the shape of the lowest energy possible in your situation. Simple but it doesn't explain the issue... or does it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It does. The filament cannot be put into the extruder as it becomes plugged. This leads us to some obvious explanations. You can read &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/904/teflon-tubing-in-nozzle-throat-coming-out/906#906&quot;&gt;this post&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So how is that possible that there is enough room to form such corkscrew? My bet is you don't have teflon pipe inside the extruder heatsink. So filament goes into the heatsink and everything is ok until the heatsink itself warms up to the temperature when filament becomes soft, then there is no enough force to push the filament out of the nozzle so above the nozzle filament bends and forms the shape of the lowest energy as said.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Options to check:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Take your extruder apart. See if there is a teflon pipe. If its length is proper. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check if cooling fan is working well, if it's pushing air to the heatsing but not sucks from the heatsink.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;[edit]&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looking closer to your photos I'm pretty sure you don't have such teflon pipe. Your spiral has flat external (virtual) surface... it looks exactly as it would be pushed into hot pipe with diameter of 4mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;[edit2]&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;please take a look on the picture&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YQKDd.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YQKDd.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1211" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T13:00:58.447" LastActivityDate="2016-05-18T21:20:23.560" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1087" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1083" CreationDate="2016-05-03T19:07:00.210" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cool environmental conditions are the single biggest contributor to ABS delamination. Delamination or edge/corner cracking is caused by warping stresses when the first layer adhesion is stronger than the interlayer bonding. Or it happens when the heated build plate allows a strong non-warping foundation to be built until the print is too tall to be adequately warmed by the plate. In either case, the corners of the first layer can't lift, so the print cracks elsewhere to relieve the stress. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All ABS warping stress, in turn, is caused by the repeated thermal contraction of the fresh plastic layer at the top of the print. The FDM process sticks hot, expanded plastic onto cool, contracted plastic. When the new layer cools, it tries to contract, but it's stuck to a layer that is already fully cooled/contracted. This generates a large shear stress between the two layers. The accumulation of those shear stresses over many consecutive layers generates a large-scale bending force on the entire print. That's what causes both warping and delamination. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HZZam.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HZZam.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The less the previous layer cools below the glass point of the plastic, the less thermal contraction it experiences before the next layer goes down, and therefore the less warping stress will accumulate as the &lt;em&gt;next&lt;/em&gt; layer cools.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Environment temp is the biggest thing you can control:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If your printer's environment is below 35C, you probably shouldn't even bother printing ABS. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A 50C environment is significantly better and will have minimal problems with warping and delamination. This is within the ambient temp ratings of most motors and electronics. Air-cooled extruders can typically extrude ABS reliably up to about 60C ambient, at which point they may be prone to clogging. And don't forget about plastic structural parts in your printer.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Industrial ABS printers with heated build chambers print ABS in a 75-85C environment, with lots of airflow. In terms of cooling regimes, ABS in an 80C chamber acts very similar to PLA in a room-temp environment. No warping, but lots of airflow required for good detail. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Printing ABS at a higher nozzle temperature (say 240-250C) will also improve layer adhesion so delamination is less likely to occur. The same warping stresses will be there, but the layer bonding may be stronger than the internal stresses in the part so it survives printing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="298" LastEditorUserId="298" LastEditDate="2016-05-03T19:13:39.337" LastActivityDate="2016-05-03T19:13:39.337" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1088" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1076" CreationDate="2016-05-03T19:33:45.537" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;ADDITIVE MANUFACTURING TECHNOLOGIES&#xA;3D Printing, Rapid Prototyping, and&#xA;Direct Digital Manufacturing&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Springer&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think its a perfect book. A lot of details to all technologies.&#xA;*Beware there is math and physics involved.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/52f1O.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/52f1O.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1586" LastEditorUserId="1586" LastEditDate="2016-05-04T14:23:15.077" LastActivityDate="2016-05-04T14:23:15.077" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1089" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1092" CreationDate="2016-05-04T02:47:04.393" Score="7" ViewCount="24031" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found a nice model for a ship from the game &quot;Eve&quot;. It doesn't have a flat bottom, so it needs support material. But Slic3r generates several dozen tiny support pillars, and one by one they break loose from the build plate. As they get tall, the leverage of course increases, and since they're so tiny they don't have much area in contact with the bed, so they separate. Eventually the whole model broke free, turned a bit, and since I had gone to dinner it kept printing... see below. I think the main problem is the poor support material geometry, but the controls in Slic3r for support material don't seem to give many options.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I get better support material layout? Oh, this is PLA, by the way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/d4sbr.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/d4sbr.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Rifter fail&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(appending to question to be able to put in the picture)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried a bunch of things, and the MeshMixer support, plus fiddling with several settings, got it to come out pretty well. Thanks to all, esp. @Tormod!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gwngu.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gwngu.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2016-12-05T15:09:26.893" LastActivityDate="2017-06-01T01:16:09.523" Title="Getting better support than Slic3r generates" Tags="|support-structures|support-material|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1091" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1089" CreationDate="2016-05-04T04:42:04.627" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I see more important things on your photo. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Filament layers are not sticked together, even these on the first layer (on the bed).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Next is that lines are not staight but they are wavy. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This suggests that you should try &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;increase HE temperature&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;set speed of the first layer (20% of normal speed)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;decrease first layer thickness&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;increase extrude rate for the first layer&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course (answering your question) there are other types of support material. &#xA;The most stable should be honeycomb but it will not work for you if you will not tune up printing parameters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1211" LastEditorUserId="1211" LastEditDate="2016-05-06T03:57:37.210" LastActivityDate="2016-05-06T03:57:37.210" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1092" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1089" CreationDate="2016-05-04T06:04:34.163" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know many Slic3r users - myself included - add support material to the model itself &lt;em&gt;before&lt;/em&gt; importing it into Slic3r. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I personally favour &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.meshmixer.com/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;MeshMixer&lt;/a&gt; for support generation, as the supports are much more predictable and easily removable. In complicated cases I also add supports in my CAD software. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although a not free, the support generation in &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.simplify3d.com/software/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Simplify3D&lt;/a&gt; is supposed to be great, allowing for custom placement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also found &lt;a href=&quot;http://blog.think3dprint3d.com/2014/08/slicing-software-printed-support-review.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;this review&lt;/a&gt; that compares support settings in Meshmixer, Slic3r and Cura fairly well. Here is the summary:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Meshmixer&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;This support was the most efficient in material use however it required the most manual tweaking to print properly. In addition the marks it left once removed were more noticeable than Cura and (sometimes) Slic3r. While the settings could probably be further modified to improve the performance this support type appears the most limited for future improvements.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Slic3r&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The support's performance was variable - by far the best in some situations (fox's head and tale) however the worst to remove with the most obvious marks in other areas of the same model. This may be down to my chosen settings and with some more tweaking I may get better results. The most obvious general flaw is that it does not leave a big enough gap between the support and the unsupported areas of the model (like the foxes legs or the lower roots of the planter)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Cura&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;While some of the support left marks, overall it was the easiest to generate support which performed consistently well. Once again though slight tweaks could improve this further for specific models. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Overall Cura wins my &quot;no time to tweak - got to make it work now&quot; award.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="115" LastActivityDate="2016-05-04T06:04:34.163" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1093" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1089" CreationDate="2016-05-04T06:21:49.860" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have not used Slic3r very much. But my guess is that the settings should still be same. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, are those rafts? They look incomplete: you might want to check your leveling again. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition, try to increase your thickness of the support material. Make it squares or something, as that will give much better strength. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Furthermore, if there is a setting for manually placing supports, you might try that. Simplify3D had that option and it worked wonders for few of our projects. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1586" LastEditorUserId="115" LastEditDate="2016-05-04T17:48:49.300" LastActivityDate="2016-05-04T17:48:49.300" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1094" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1089" CreationDate="2016-05-04T08:32:56.840" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my point of view it seems that the bed offset not optimal.&#xA;I see that you are using the blue tape, which is better than any other tape. As a next step I would recommend to try different types of glue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I agree with Tormod Haugene and can also recommend Cura. You can also experiment there with a lot of parameters and after a time you will get a feeling how to print your things successfully.&#xA;Just take a look at the download page at Ultimaker for the application and if there are problems with the software you can feel free to report issues at GitHub.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regards&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1655" LastActivityDate="2016-05-04T08:32:56.840" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1095" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5" CreationDate="2016-05-04T10:14:21.737" Score="3" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;PLA/ABS general and thermal properties&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/atDXf.png&quot; alt=&quot;PLA vs ABS general properties PLA ABS Performance Higher strength Higher rigidity Stronger layer bond Higher impact resistance Higher flexibility Higher temperature resistance higher Tg Quality Sharper details features corners surfaces Process Lower warping Better color Les particle emissions Lower risk of jamming&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1662" LastEditorUserId="1662" LastEditDate="2017-08-02T09:49:07.263" LastActivityDate="2017-08-02T09:49:07.263" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1096" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1076" CreationDate="2016-05-04T10:19:28.003" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would recommend &lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/1457187361&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Design for 3D Printing: Scanning, Creating, Editing, Remixing, and Making in Three Dimensions&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; by Samuel N. Bernier, Bertier Luyt and Tatiana Reinhard&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YIohZ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YIohZ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It has a lot of tips, tricks and examples.&#xA;Good for beginners and experienced users.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1662" LastActivityDate="2016-05-04T10:19:28.003" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1097" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1076" CreationDate="2016-05-04T11:49:31.303" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you really want to learn about three dimensional printing then &quot;Mastering 3D Printing&quot; by Joan Horvath, published by Apress, would be a good place to start. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It does not provide you the in depth knowledge about all the types of printers or materials but it is good enough to get a newbie like me or you get of the ground. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="952" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-09-30T10:03:45.480" LastActivityDate="2018-09-30T10:03:45.480" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="1098" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1105" CreationDate="2016-05-04T13:19:59.970" Score="6" ViewCount="75" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;You may want to use &lt;a href=&quot;http://reprap.org/wiki/File:RAMPSTestCode.pde&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;this code&lt;/a&gt; to test all the electronics before&#xA;  installing any of the suggested firmwares.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm planning on:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Flashing the &lt;a href=&quot;http://reprap.org/wiki/File:RAMPSTestCode.pde&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;test firmware&lt;/a&gt; onto the Arduino Mega 2560, then unplugging it from the USB.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Connecting RAMPS 1.4&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Connecting all 3 jumpers under the X-Axis (leaving the other jumpers disconnected).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Connecting a stepper driver to the X-Axis on the board.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Turning the trimpot down all the way, and then back up 1/4th of the way.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Plugging in 1 NEMA 17 motor to the X-Axis.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Connecting 5A DC input into RAMPS 1.4 (not plugged in).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Finally plugging it in and seeing if the motor moves for 5 seconds.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now my question is, if I'm going to do this to test out a single NEMA 17 motor, do I need to comment out the rest of the test code before loading the firmware?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastActivityDate="2016-06-03T19:59:54.367" Title="Should I comment out the code for what I am not testing when loading the test firmware for Ramps 1.4?" Tags="|ramps-1.4|firmware|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1099" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-04T14:32:39.200" Score="3" ViewCount="1009" Body="&lt;p&gt;My Makerbot replicator 2 stops and restarts automatically. I lose the print and the extruder head does not move from the position. (obviously).&#xA;We have checked wiring a few times. Have not seen any issues so far.&#xA;Maybe I am missing something.&#xA;We have recently changed the ceramic tapes, fans etc. just recently. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It happens once in a while. But once it starts, it continuous, and it doesnt stop unless we shut it down for a few hours. or sometimes even days. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas what the issue could be. Or are more details required. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1586" LastActivityDate="2017-01-06T00:24:15.257" Title="Makerbot Replicator 2 switches off and restarts automatically" Tags="|makerbot|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1100" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-04T15:03:36.370" Score="5" ViewCount="4642" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a RepRap Prusa i2. I have done the majority of my printing with clear PLA that I got on the cheap from eBay. It works just fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I bought a roll of Hatchbox Silver PLA (1.75&amp;nbsp;mm) from Amazon. I have never had a print go well with it. I have tried various combinations of hotter and cooler extruder and bed (180 - 220°C extruder, 50 - 78°C bed). Prints always either curl up from the bed after 5-20 layers are deposited or delaminate in the middle of the print. I print directly on the heated glass bed, and have also tried various cooling fan settings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone have good settings (Slic3r) to use with this stuff? Or any other advice for getting a successful print?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1668" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-06-12T20:26:47.760" LastActivityDate="2018-06-12T20:35:05.217" Title="Hatchbox Silver PLA settings?" Tags="|pla|delamination|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="1101" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1100" CreationDate="2016-05-04T15:25:53.107" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been using Hatchbox 1.75&amp;nbsp;mm (but white), and settled on 190°C extruder temp, and 60°C bed. I've had trouble getting some prints to adhere to the bed, but most have been ok; I don't see a clear pattern. I don't know whether it's the fiber or my settings. I'm trying slightly higher temperatures, higher extrusion rates, and other filament brands to see if those help. Will post back if anything clear shows up...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-06-12T20:35:05.217" LastActivityDate="2018-06-12T20:35:05.217" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="1102" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2992" CreationDate="2016-05-04T15:35:03.997" Score="5" ViewCount="733" Body="&lt;p&gt;Has anyone tried painting a PLA (or other) print with stone-look spray paints? In particular, how does the result look compared to printing with stone-fill filaments? It looks a lot cheaper, but will it look inferior?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One such paint: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.krylon.com/press-room/press-releases/2013/04/add-a-touch-of-nature-to-your-next-project-with-new-natural-stone-textured-finish/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.krylon.com/press-room/press-releases/2013/04/add-a-touch-of-nature-to-your-next-project-with-new-natural-stone-textured-finish/&lt;/a&gt;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One such filament: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.matterhackers.com/store/3d-printer-filament?t=LAYBRICK&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.matterhackers.com/store/3d-printer-filament?t=LAYBRICK&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2018-09-16T12:33:25.190" LastActivityDate="2018-09-16T12:33:25.190" Title="Stone-look surface via painting?" Tags="|filament|post-processing|filament-quality|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1103" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-04T16:34:55.610" Score="9" ViewCount="7662" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am looking to others who have successfully printed in ABS using a Wanhao Duplicator i3. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have tried and get a lot of warping and delamination. I tried putting a large box over the printer which did help with the warping some but I am still getting some layer separation. I used 235&amp;nbsp;°C for the extruder and 100&amp;nbsp;°C for the bed. I am printing at 40&amp;nbsp;mm/s and 0.2&amp;nbsp;mm layer height. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If someone has ABS and PETG settings for this printer, your help would be appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1670" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-07-28T23:57:16.487" LastActivityDate="2018-07-29T00:04:55.970" Title="Wanhao Duplicator i3 ABS settings" Tags="|filament|abs|warping|wanhao|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="1104" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1100" CreationDate="2016-05-04T16:37:38.830" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use a Wahao Duplicator I3 with a heated bed. I have only used the orange Hatchbox PLA with great results. I use 210°C for the extruder and 55°C for the bed. Speed is 40&amp;nbsp;mm/s which works well for me. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1670" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-06-12T20:32:04.010" LastActivityDate="2018-06-12T20:32:04.010" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="1105" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1098" CreationDate="2016-05-04T19:52:26.097" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's no reason to comment anything out. It will work just fine without any modification, even if you're just testing a single motor. That said, I don't see the value of this &quot;test firmware&quot; over just installing Marlin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastActivityDate="2016-05-04T19:52:26.097" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1106" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1100" CreationDate="2016-05-04T19:58:02.087" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use 205°C for the extruder and 60°C for the bed on my RoBo3D. I also put hot glue stick on the bed to help adhesion and use a brim if it is a small object.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would also check the first layer to see if you need to adjust your z offset. Delamination could be a sign the plastic isn't fusing correctly, which could be both an offset or temperature issue. It could also be a feed issue from the roll itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can try printing these, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:35088&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Print Temperature Calibration Piece&lt;/a&gt;, and see what temperature gives you the best result.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have had only one delamination happen to me and I think it had more to do with a hiccup in the commands sent to the printer than the filament itself. I basically have only used Hatchbox filament.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="762" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-06-12T20:34:00.397" LastActivityDate="2018-06-12T20:34:00.397" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="1107" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="711" CreationDate="2016-05-05T08:44:59.300" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think the easiest thing is to use the Cura application together with CuraEngine.&#xA;If your printer is not supported, you'll need to add it manually by adding a JSON here: &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/Ultimaker/Cura/tree/master/resources/machines&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://github.com/Ultimaker/Cura/tree/master/resources/machines&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;But when you are done you can easily choose all the features you want. For example: generating supports, printing order when printing multiple models, etc.&#xA;Cura and CuraEngine are developed at the same time, so you can expect that all features supported by the engine are accessible by the UI.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1655" LastActivityDate="2016-05-05T08:44:59.300" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1108" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="191" CreationDate="2016-05-05T10:11:27.210" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think the list of masteusz is a good one but before you can decide on what you need you have to get a better understanding of how 3D printing works, like Silver Quettier said. Please be aware that printing a object is yet not as easy as printing on paper. The machines that print 3D are more like industrial machines than that they are like your inkjet printer at home.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the curious beginner I would suggest to  first concentrate on modelling and printing technique.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Modeling&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can of course download things from ThingyVerse or YouMagine but you might be more interested in &lt;em&gt;making&lt;/em&gt; things than printing them. I don't know Windows 10 3D design. I personally find Sketchup Modeling software a good entry-point because they have a large set of video tutorials and while you learn you can add more complicated extensions to the program. There are also extensions that help you make your model 'watertight' and 'ready for print'.&#xA;Of course you can find heaps of tutorials on Youtube for other modeling software like freeCAD or Fusion but you might find it a bit overwhelming.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Printing&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As suggested in the comments, you could start with letting your objects print by others. It's worth to set aside a small budget for that.&#xA;They easiest to design for is &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.shapeways.com/additive-manufacturing&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;SLS printing&lt;/a&gt;. You don't have to worry about overhangs etc. Buying a SLS printer is not an option but you can have it print at multiple printingfarms like Shapeways.&#xA;You soon enough find out that making a print 'light' and hollow will save a lot of cash. Shapeways will tell you if there is anything wrong with your design too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A bit harder is FDM printing where layers of threads are stacked. Because overhangs need support, most of the time extra plastic is printed that has to be removed later.  Plastic is not expensive and insides can be printed hollow, so cost is not so much a thing you have to worry about when designing.&#xA;On 3Dhubs you can find experienced people who own a printer and want to print for you. They can tell you what is printable and what not. If you have a hub near you this is a good option to get familiar with the technique.&#xA;If you did that a couple of times you can decide to go to a fablab or makerspace where you lent/rent a printer. Make yourself familiar with slicing software like Cura before you go. There are many settings like for filling the space in the object and for making support for parts that 'hang in the air'.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you buy a printer you probably print mostly with PLA and ABS and all printers can print that.&#xA;Even when you own a printer you might sometimes want to print a part at Shapeways because of the material options or to make something that is impossible to print.&#xA;3DHubs gives you the possibility to experiment with a large range of printer and materials. Print quality though is often influenced by the experience level of the person printing it so don't deside what printer to buy on these results. 3DHubs has a good printer-guide.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other hand, having a printer yourself makes it a lot easier and more fun to print objects you have downloaded. Also, making something, seeing the result and then adjusting it, is a more organic way to learn and create designs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Welcome to 3D printing ;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1672" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:29:41.667" LastActivityDate="2016-05-05T10:11:27.210" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1109" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-05T13:24:37.353" Score="16" ViewCount="31870" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have seen mechanical (micro switch), optical  and magnetic(magnet + hall sensor) end stops.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any differences in how exact they switch at the right location? If so which are the most precise?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="204" LastActivityDate="2019-10-16T15:57:47.050" Title="Which endstops are most precise?" Tags="|quality|endstop|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1110" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1109" CreationDate="2016-05-05T14:26:02.003" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think there are several factors involved in which sensors are best, but the general ordering for me would be Hall, Optical followed by mechanical. All of the types will be subject to some drift due to vibrations and changes in the printer over usage. Therefore it's the ease of adjustment as well as the accuracy of the stop which counts in the assessment. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my experience the hall effect sensors are the most accurate and easiest. They don't rely on physical switching (as with the mechanical) meaning there is no &quot;wear and tear&quot; on the component and the point of switching will remain fixed. They have a potentiometer which can be adjusted to make the position of the stop change without any mechanical intervention allowing very fine tuning. They can be very accurate. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Optical are similarly accurate but usually have a fixed component that cuts the beam to switch on/off the sensor. The adjustment of the stop will usually be mechanical because the mount points will need to be adjusted - this reduces their accuracy. There are various adjustable mounts to alleviate this on thingyverse or the like.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mechanical switches are similar to optical in terms of adjustment with the added inaccuracy of the actual switch mechanism which may degrade over time. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1393" LastActivityDate="2016-05-05T14:26:02.003" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1111" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1109" CreationDate="2016-05-05T14:26:10.567" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you take a look at the &lt;a href=&quot;http://reprap.org/wiki/Endstop&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;RepRap Wiki&lt;/a&gt;, they briefly explain these three switches:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mechanical&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&quot;&lt;strong&gt;Mechanical Endstops&lt;/strong&gt; are the most basic form of endstops, made of an ordinary switch, two wires. Changing the switch state signals the electronics.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Optical&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&quot;These Optical Endstops observe the light level and reacts to sudden changes.&quot;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Magnetic&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&quot;These endstops; Hall effect sensors is a transducer that varies its output voltage in response to a magnetic field. Hall effect sensors are used for proximity switching, positioning, speed detection, and current sensing applications.&quot;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In regards to your question, it's dependent upon your circumstance. However, most of the time a good 'ol Mechanical Switch is repeatable and serves its purpose well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I, personally, would place both optical and magnetic switches in the category of a multifunction component. Meaning, both of these types of switches &lt;sup&gt;(generally)&lt;/sup&gt; provide a valuable range for object detection. This can potentially lead (depending on your machine) to a pushed command that tells your machine to slow down when it comes close to the soft stop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Again, personally, I would be wary of using an optical endstop with potential white light noise from ambient room lighting or other sources. I could be wrong in my concern for some modules that address these kind of issues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, if we narrow down between mechanical and magnetic:&#xA; - Magnetic would provide a gentler approach, reducing (potentially) the amount of wear&#xA; - However, I'm assuming, magnetic switches require &quot;dialing in&quot; depending on the components used in the sensor. This could lead to an undesired range that the sensor is triggered.&#xA; - Mechanical switches are simple. They're either touching or not touching (on or off)&#xA; - A possible pro (or con) is the ability to manipulate the trigger manually, more easily. I've run into a situation a few times where I needed to manually trigger the endstop as part of a troubleshooting step. But, if you accidentally bump your endstop while the machine is running, no good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="98" LastActivityDate="2016-05-05T14:26:10.567" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1112" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="191" CreationDate="2016-05-05T19:48:50.650" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The number one most important thing about a 3-d printer is the Extruder/PrintHead component.  If these are buggy, the printer is worthless.  Seems like most printers are pretty good with everything else.  The place that they die is in the Extruder/Print Head assembly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The second most important thing is quality of the plastic parts.  One nice thing about that is you can usually reprint the plastic parts by going to thingiverse.com and downloading them.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, I'm on my 2nd printer.  I returned the first one to amazon and may very well return the second one.  It is a frustrating game.  On thing I notice is that VERY FEW printers have a LOT of ratings.  Some might have 4 stars, but only 8 votes...  The latest one I have had 200+ votes but a 3.5 rating.  If you have 200+ votes and anything below 4.2, you've got an inconsistent and potentially crappy product.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, to sum up, Get details on the extruder.  Does it cool properly, is the design such that the filament is properly driven and pushed?  Is the hot head the only hot part, or is the tube getting heated too.  Does the extruder throat near the hot head have a Teflon tube inside it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Read the ratings on Amazon, read the bad reviews and then look at the pictures of the product to verify them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Best of luck.. I'm about to return #2 printer and perhaps part out #3.  Not quite sure yet..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1647" LastActivityDate="2016-05-05T19:48:50.650" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1113" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1114" CreationDate="2016-05-05T20:20:01.943" Score="4" ViewCount="288" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am very close to buying a 3D printer and have started to do some preliminary design work from the things I'd like to make, but I have a question: Which corner of the print bed corresponds to the origin (0,0,0) in slicer software? Is this the same across slicers and printers?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason I ask this is because of the difficulty some have in removing items from the bed. It seems to me like I'd want to print small items closer to the front of the printer to make access easier, but it looks like most slicer hosts only show a box representing the build volume with no real indication of what's &quot;front&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1680" LastActivityDate="2022-11-10T18:37:00.587" Title="Slicer/Printer Origin" Tags="|software|slicing|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1114" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1113" CreationDate="2016-05-05T20:28:46.243" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Depending on what kind of printer you have, the build table origin and slicer origin (0,0) are usually either the front left corner, or the center of the build plate. This can be changed by the end-user in most open-source printers. There is no standard or requirement for a particular origin location. The important thing is merely that the slicer and printer coordinate systems match, so parts actually come out where your slicer thinks they should. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In practice, it's usually quite easy to tell what's &quot;front&quot; in your slicer's build volume. When you open the program, the bed usually appears as it does when you stand in front of your printer. It is rarely an issue. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In terms of difficulty removing prints from the bed, a removable build plate is an excellent solution. Plastic has a higher coefficient of thermal expansion than most build plate materials (like glass), so throwing the print+plate in your freezer will generate large separation forces and help remove the part for you. Non-removable build surfaces are a deal-breaker for most serious 3D printer users I know. Either don't buy such a printer, or add a removable plate yourself. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="298" LastActivityDate="2016-05-05T20:28:46.243" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1115" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1109" CreationDate="2016-05-05T20:52:02.177" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are some different criteria that we should use to select a switch type:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Precision / repeatability: does the switch trigger at the same place every time? How much spread is there in the trigger position? Do environmental changes or machine setting changes affect the trigger position?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Contact distance: does the switch register with enough clearance to its hard-stop that the homing axis can stop before colliding with something?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Noise-rejection: does the switch ONLY trigger when it is supposed to? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's important to ask, how much switch precision do we actually need? A typical 3d printer drivetrain using a microstepping stepper motor can only accurately position the moving load within +/- one 1/16th microstep (even if using finer microstepping than that) due to error-inducing effects like friction torque and magnetic detent angle error. That's around +/-0.01mm for most printers. The homing switch only needs to be as precise as the motor's positioning! Nothing is gained by having, say, 0.001mm precision endstops. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This precision of +/-0.01mm is achievable for all types of endstop switches, with proper switch selection and configuration. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then there are three &quot;standard&quot; switching types in use in consumer/hobbyist 3d printers:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mechanical switches, typically dual NO/NC limit switches, which either pull up or pull down a signal pin by connecting an electrical circuit when triggered&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Optical switches, which use transistors to detect when an obstacle (&quot;flag&quot;) is blocking the window between the emitter and sensor&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hall effect switches, which use transistors to detect when a magnetic field exceeds a particular field strength cutoff&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Mechanical Switches&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Precision/repeatability depends on the switch quality, length of lever arm attached (longer increases contact distance but is worse for precision), and impact speed of the carriage with the switch. It's possible to have a good mechanical switch or a bad mechanical switch. This is typically a reasonable default choice because it is simple and cheap. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A small mechanical switch with a short lever arm (or the lever arm removed) will generally achieve the required +/-0.01mm switching precision. Very cheap switches, high contact speeds, and long lever arms may provide inadequate resolution for Z homing or probing, but will still be adequate for low-precision X and Y homing purposes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Where mechanical switches tend to cause issues is in noise rejection. Different controller boards use different ways of wiring the switch: some use two wires and only send a signal when triggered. When not triggered, the signal wire is left floating or weakly pulled up by the microcontroller, while attached to a long wire that acts as an antenna to pick up EM noise. It is VERY common for heater or stepper wiring to emit nasty EMR due to the PWM current control. Two-wire endstop cables should always be run away from stepper and heater wiring. Shielding and twisting the conductors is a good idea too. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A more robust approach is to use three-wire switches that actively pull the signal line high or low depending on the switch position. These will tend to reject noise better. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Very cheap mechanical switches may fail within the life of the printer. However, most limit switches are rated for millions of cycles, which is unlikely to occur over any normal printer's lifespan. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mechanical switches are easy to align and easy to trigger by hand during troubleshooting. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Optical Switches&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These rely on a flag blocking a window between a light emitter and a detector. This is non-contact and can be quite reliable, but introduces some challenges. The exact trigger position (and thus precision) may depend on ambient light levels in the room, because the sensor is monitoring for light to decrease below a specific intensity. So it may be very repeatable/precise in the short term but have some drift if the sensor moves in and out of the sun through the day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Switching tends to be more consistent and reliable if the flag enters the window from the side, rather than the top. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Optical switches will actively pull the signal line high or low, and thus have good electrical noise rejection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Hall Effect Switches&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These measure the intensity of the nearby magnetic field and trigger when it exceeds a certain amount in a certain polarity. This is highly precise/repeatable (better than +/-0.01mm) and extremely resistant to noise and environmental conditions. (Unless your printer is next to something that emits large magnetic fields, anyway.) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The hall switches I've seen have an adjustable trim pot to tune the trigger distance. That's a nice feature when trying to manually calibrate a Delta or a Z-bed for first layer height. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The primary downside to hall switches is that they need a magnet to trigger the switch. This can be difficult to trigger by hand during troubleshooting, and requires attaching a magnet somewhere on the moving carriage. Glue works fine... but don't glue the magnet in place backwards!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="298" LastEditorUserId="298" LastEditDate="2016-05-09T15:26:32.263" LastActivityDate="2016-05-09T15:26:32.263" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1116" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1113" CreationDate="2016-05-05T21:06:22.387" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Normally the home position of the printer is the front left corner of the bed.  The slicing software will ask you where this is so you can than position your object anywhere on the bed. The slicing software will make all the necessary adjustments for you. You normally would print the object in the middle of the bed, especially when heated, so it would be the most consistent in temperature. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally, I have more of an issue keeping the object stuck to the bed than getting it off. Once the bed cools, the objects are easy to pop off. My experience using PLA and a glue stick. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="762" LastActivityDate="2016-05-05T21:06:22.387" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1117" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1118" CreationDate="2016-05-06T00:02:50.243" Score="1" ViewCount="97" Body="&lt;p&gt;i have seen formbox &lt;a href=&quot;http://golem13.fr/formbox/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://golem13.fr/formbox/&lt;/a&gt; and it uses heat and many materials like PVC. Is there any way to do this with paper or paper derivatives(like egg carton)? If the answer is yes, how can i do that?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1683" LastActivityDate="2016-05-06T12:16:52.400" Title="Alternative 3d molding techniques at home" Tags="|3d-models|material|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ClosedDate="2016-05-07T18:26:55.297" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1118" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1117" CreationDate="2016-05-06T07:49:40.880" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Forming kinda blister out of paper is possible but not the way it's formed out of plastic. Paper is not elastic, it's bendable but not strechable. It's the issue of how cellulose fibers are formed and how are they entangled. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway - you can create a form out of wet mixed paper pulp. Wrap it around your model and then wait until it's dry. It will form amazingly stiff form. You can do it also out of wet handkerchiefs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could build a vacuum machine as in the formbox to squeeze the paper pulp the get water out of the material but the cover should be done out of light silicone film so it would be treated by vacuum.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1211" LastEditorUserId="1211" LastEditDate="2016-05-06T12:16:52.400" LastActivityDate="2016-05-06T12:16:52.400" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1119" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-06T15:34:40.387" Score="5" ViewCount="2059" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to get a green tombow PITS adhesive stick. On Rakuten, it costs \$1 (USD). On my 3d printer's (XYZ) retailer's site, it costs \$20 (USD). Due to the costs and the fact that Rakuten does not ship to my country, I need an alternative. I am currently using Davinci 1.0 for my bed, which I believe is a glass bed. So, my questions are: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What glue is best for PLA plastic?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What glue is best for ABS plastic?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is there a glue that functions with both types of plastic?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1688" LastEditorUserId="5" LastEditDate="2018-09-14T00:42:37.157" LastActivityDate="2018-09-14T00:42:37.157" Title="Glue sticks for print bed" Tags="|abs|pla|fdm|adhesion|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="1120" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1121" CreationDate="2016-05-06T18:56:01.593" Score="4" ViewCount="13741" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to set up &lt;a href=&quot;http://octoprint.org/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;OctoPrint&lt;/a&gt; on my Linux Ubuntu 16.04 desktop to work with my Micro3D printer. The printer works fine on Mac and Windows:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Kmil9.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Kmil9.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've installed OctoPrint with the &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/donovan6000/M3D-Fio&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;M3D Fio Plugin Manager&lt;/a&gt;. I can see the files in &lt;code&gt;~/.octoprint/&lt;/code&gt; fine and I can even turn the printer fan on/off, move the extruder, etc. through OctoPrint:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qyeCZ.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qyeCZ.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But when I press the blue &quot;Print button&quot;, there is no response. Also the files in the &quot;upload&quot; section are greyed out. Must I download a slicing program or something? I'm new with 3D printing in general but not with Linux. Grateful for help!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1601" LastEditorUserId="1601" LastEditDate="2016-05-08T22:38:19.213" LastActivityDate="2016-05-09T11:04:33.663" Title="3D printing using OctoPrint on Linux Ubuntu desktop" Tags="|desktop-printer|octoprint|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1121" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1120" CreationDate="2016-05-06T19:14:31.950" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just discovered that OctoPrint only reads .gcode files for printing (apparently, unless you have a slicing software embedded in it), so I installed &lt;a href=&quot;http://slic3r.org/download&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Slic3r&lt;/a&gt; separately, and ran&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;./slic3r mystlfile.stl&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;to generate a .gcode file (in the executable directory).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then I uploaded the .gcode file to OctoPrint and things got moving.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1601" LastEditorUserId="1601" LastEditDate="2016-05-07T12:13:03.467" LastActivityDate="2016-05-07T12:13:03.467" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1122" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1119" CreationDate="2016-05-07T10:38:49.030" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most PVA glue works well for both (Poly Vinyl Acetate).&lt;br&gt;&#xA;There are different brands in every country.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1697" LastActivityDate="2016-05-07T10:38:49.030" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1125" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-07T22:56:22.680" Score="8" ViewCount="3184" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently decided to upgrade to auto bed-leveling using an inductive proximity sensor and an aluminum build plate on my Prusa i3. I also wanted to try to secure the build plate using neodymium magnets at 4 points, with the magnets being secured with bolts to the Y-carriage, and steel washers glued to the bottom of the aluminum build plate (since aluminum is not magnetic).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would like to know if anybody has attempted this, and what the results were, as well as any issues incurred. My primary concern is a possible interference between the small magnetic field that is created by the magnet, and the sensor when probing the plate. I fear this question may sound a little open-ended, but I would just like to know if this could work. Please feel free to ask any follow up questions to details I may have missed. Thank you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;P.S. I would also like to note, in case there is any relevance, I do not plan on using a heated build plate, since I have a heated build chamber.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1266" LastEditorUserId="1266" LastEditDate="2016-05-08T08:24:36.413" LastActivityDate="2016-06-03T11:39:52.287" Title="Auto Bed-Leveling with Inductive Proximity Sensors and Magnets" Tags="|prusa-i3|printer-building|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1126" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1119" CreationDate="2016-05-08T12:31:51.537" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;As mentioned by Matt - PVA glues work perfect for both filaments.&#xA;It works well because it's softening temperature is between 45..85C so it's more or less temperature of HB.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Advantages:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;cheap&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;easy to apply on HB&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;can be applied on cold as same as on hot HB&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;sticks model very well&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;non toxic, no solvent, odorless&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;easy to wash (from HB) (just wash it under water or scrape with sharp tool)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;works very well even with old and dry layer of glue&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Disadvantages:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;quite hard to detach model (I use paper knife)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;first layer is not glass-perfect&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;after detaching, model is a bit sticky (first layer)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I use Scotch Glue Stick by 3M. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1211" LastEditorUserId="1211" LastEditDate="2016-05-09T05:18:19.550" LastActivityDate="2016-05-09T05:18:19.550" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1127" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1129" CreationDate="2016-05-08T14:30:46.043" Score="5" ViewCount="353" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've noticed that some of my prints (mostly square-ish objects) are coming out with gaps between the outside shells and the inner parts. This gap is visible even in the 2D sliced preview of the layers so I think it must have something to do with slicing settings, but I'm at a loss for what I need to change to fix it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See below for images of the issue. On the orange piece near the right hand side you can see light shining through the gap. The black cube has it at the top, though it's not deep enough to let light through like with the orange one. There is also an image of the layer preview which shows the same gap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a Rostock Max v2 (stock hot end). I am using Matter control using mostly stock settings, I've tweaked around layer height, speed, and temp but I don't think those are the cause.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Images of the issue:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/E7ir4.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/E7ir4.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cX6It.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cX6It.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kWthd.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kWthd.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="275" LastEditorUserId="1211" LastEditDate="2016-05-09T20:25:08.423" LastActivityDate="2016-05-09T20:25:08.423" Title="What setting do I need to change to get rid of this gap between the shells and the inside?" Tags="|software|slicing|mattercontrol|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1128" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1134" CreationDate="2016-05-08T14:50:39.170" Score="5" ViewCount="753" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 30ish year old travel mug from Sheetz that I intend to model and print using my OpenScad skills.   The fact that it is an insulated mug means that the inside is hollow to an extent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What reccomendations do you have toward turning this into a foodsafe, leakproof success?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1397" LastActivityDate="2016-05-09T16:14:29.243" Title="Travel Mug Woes" Tags="|food|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1129" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1127" CreationDate="2016-05-08T15:51:04.130" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's generally called infill overlap. &#xA;In terms of first layer it's good to set extrude rate to 120% or even more so infill will overlap perimeters and itself. There is also the issue of &quot;overlapping&quot; layers which is not managed by any specific parameter. it's the issue of layer thickness and HE temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately Matter Control has kinda bug or at least an issue with extrude rate. If you set higher  extrude rate then overlap will be automatically reduced in some way. So it's good to increase extrude rate manually during printing and then set it back to normal. this will cheat slicer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1211" LastEditorUserId="1211" LastEditDate="2016-05-08T15:58:53.317" LastActivityDate="2016-05-08T15:58:53.317" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1130" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-09T02:30:57.717" Score="5" ViewCount="1186" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Prusa i3 that I am mostly happy with. However, I am seeing these strange artifacts when the extruder moves along one axis in one direction - in particular from the back of the printer towards the front. The extruded lines look uneven and the surface is quite rough, but only in that area and only while the extruder moves in that direction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a recent print that shows this happen. The pieces were printed side by side, and both of them show this on the left hand side, while the right is okay.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MNLHp.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MNLHp.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Left hand side of the print shows uneven and rough lines&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am thinking maybe the extruder tip is slanted (not perpendicular to the bed), which causes some sort of scraping while extruding? What do you think?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1712" LastActivityDate="2021-06-15T20:26:34.770" Title="What is causing these artifacts when the extruder moves in one direction?" Tags="|extruder|prusa-i3|print-quality|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1131" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1130" CreationDate="2016-05-09T03:39:56.400" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;In case of such difference in printing in different directions you can check if;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;for x and partially z axis&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;filament is blocked and cannot be pulled as it should&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;spool is blocked&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;for x and y axis&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;rods on which caret/HB is sliding are parallel&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;timing belt idlers are parallel and they are in a line&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Shape of the nozzle or its perpendicularity should not be the case as it's hot and it wipes layer itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also check if it's not an issue of cooling fan. It can vibrate as such.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Eventually it could be an issue of cooling itself. Let's assume you have cooling fan at the back and it pushes air to the front then when caret moves from the front to the back then cooling time is longer than when the fan goes in opposite direction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1211" LastEditorUserId="1211" LastEditDate="2016-05-09T06:32:46.190" LastActivityDate="2016-05-09T06:32:46.190" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1133" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1120" CreationDate="2016-05-09T11:04:33.663" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;For me it sounds like you've missed to install the CuraEngine for slicing, but I'm only guessing, as I'm not using OctoPrint at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Instead I'm using Cura directly and save gcode to a SD or use USB printing for quick/small prints.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regrads ;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1655" LastActivityDate="2016-05-09T11:04:33.663" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1134" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1128" CreationDate="2016-05-09T16:14:29.243" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;You cannot make a safe coffee cup using home FDM printers. There are no printable thermoplastics available to consumers/hobbyists that will reliably AND safely contain coffee/tea temperature beverages.&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even though some plastics may appear mechanically suitable at first sight, there are long-term issues with using thermoplastics for elevated temperature service. The material becomes weaker and less dimensionally stable under load as the temperature approaches the glass point of the polymer. For example, here is some Stratasys test data for ABS strength versus temperature:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PN3QJ.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PN3QJ.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even if the plastic survives a few uses, it may creep and warp over time. And that might be fine, depending on your needs! People have printed working coffee cups out of ABS before. For some definition of &quot;working&quot; you can make print a working coffee mug. It's just not going to work at the level of longevity and reliability that people typically expect from hot beverage containers. (Imagine if the handle breaks and pours scalding liquid in your lap.) PLA in particular tends to give out abruptly due to its unusual ability to creep to ultimate failure with very low elongations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then there is the question of whether ANY FDM printed part is ever safe for &lt;em&gt;repeated&lt;/em&gt; food service use. One-time uses (such as throw-away cookie cutters) might be perfectly fine, but repeated use introduces additional problems because FDM parts are porous. They contain a microscopic void/grain structure that is perfect for trapping food debris and sheltering bacteria. Every FDM part is similar in that regard to an old, scratched, wooden cutting board. They are difficult to effectively sanitize. A high-temp dishwasher cycle will do the job, but that imposes significant thermal stress on thermoplastics. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's an example micrograph I took of voids in a printed part (strands all aligned the same way to highlight the shape):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wfYtx.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wfYtx.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These voids will also allow liquids to leak unless careful print settings are used. Over-extruding with multiple perimeters, or doing some kind of post-print sealing can make water-tight parts. It's not hard, just takes some experimenting. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is also considerable anecdotal evidence that much of the cheap filament from Asia is full of nasty, toxic substances that may leach into hot beverages. Heavy metals like lead, strontrium, and cadmium are often found in thermoplastics as processing aids, pigments, or simply from unscrupulous companies disposing of industrial ashes by mixing them into dark-colored filaments for export. US-made and EU-made filaments seem to be better in this regard. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now that the basic issues are out of the way... Here is the breakdown of specific materials you might want to try:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;PLA&lt;/strong&gt; blends used in 3d printing will soften and fail almost instantly on contact with hot beverages. (They contain melt-reducers and viscosity modifiers and polymer molecular weights specific to FDM filament and will perform differently from injection-molded PLA products.) It is &lt;em&gt;possible&lt;/em&gt; to anneal PLA to survive higher temperatures, as this increases the crystallinity of the polymer and thus makes it more heat-stable. However, that is highly experimental and results will vary considerably with filament provider, color/pigment, and annealing process used. Even annealed PLA is unlikely to survive long-term against very hot beverages and dishwasher use.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;ABS&lt;/strong&gt; will become fairly weak at hot beverage temperatures. It may survive use for a while, but is quite weak and will slowly creep with very hot beverages or in a high-temp dishwasher. ABS IS approved for food use in many contexts, despite what many people think, but hot beverages are not one of the approved uses.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;PET&lt;/strong&gt; blends are chemically a pretty good choice -- soda bottles are PET -- but generally have glass points around 70-75C and thus will be weak or fail outright at hot beverage temperatures. It is also important to ask what is being blended into the PET. For example, PETG is &quot;glycol modified&quot; but filament vendors do not share any details about this or reveal how it may affect the polymer's leaching behavior.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Most &lt;strong&gt;nylons&lt;/strong&gt; will creep under load at surprisingly low temperatures, perhaps 50-55C depending on the blend. Nylons are also attacked by acids and will absorb stains and smells from coffee. Nylons also tend to swell/shrink quite dramatically on exposure to water, so mechanical fit and general shape of nylon parts may not be stable enough even for cold beverage service. &lt;strong&gt;Taulman's 910 is probably a good candidate for hot beverage service due to its high working temperature&lt;/strong&gt;, but acid attack from coffee exposure may still be an issue in the long run. It's worth trying. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Polycarbonate&lt;/strong&gt; is thermally stable even in boiling water, so mechanically it is fine, but PC leaches BPA (one of the monomers left over from manufacture) into hot liquids. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;High-temp exotics like Ultem and PEEK aren't printable by consumer/hobbyist printers at the size scale required for a coffee mug. They simply warp too much unless you have an oven for a heated build chamber. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In summary, you &lt;em&gt;can&lt;/em&gt; make a working coffee mug via FDM printing, but it isn't a great idea. &lt;strong&gt;Your best bet for 3d printing a coffee mug is ordering ceramic printed from an online service bureau.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="298" LastActivityDate="2016-05-09T16:14:29.243" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1135" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1139" CreationDate="2016-05-09T16:28:22.077" Score="4" ViewCount="2691" Body="&lt;p&gt;I need help opening a &lt;code&gt;.max&lt;/code&gt; file a friend sent me. The thing is, I don't have Alias Maya. Well, a copy of Alias Maya that works anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any other file openers that I can use? Or do I have to get Maya to open the file? Would Alias Maya open the file? I don't want to get download 1.3 GB and discover that there is 15 MB file opener.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a file converter maybe? That converts &lt;code&gt;.max&lt;/code&gt; to, maybe, &lt;code&gt;.obj&lt;/code&gt;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1722" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2022-06-17T11:16:45.383" LastActivityDate="2022-06-17T11:16:45.383" Title="How to open .max files" Tags="|3d-models|file-formats|123d-catch|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="1136" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1138" CreationDate="2016-05-09T17:46:43.240" Score="8" ViewCount="176" Body="&lt;p&gt;So, have a plastic car part I want to duplicate because the driver side part is broken (I have the passenger side part) and It isn't sold anymore. It's a small piece that would be an excellent candidate for a 3D printed replacement. I know there are companies I can send a 3D model to that will happily print it for me, but I also need to create a 3D model from the part. Is there a company or service that I could mail the part to that would return it along with a 3D model of it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1724" LastActivityDate="2016-05-10T04:48:10.257" Title="Are there any services that offer 3D scanning?" Tags="|3d-design|3d-models|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1138" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1136" CreationDate="2016-05-10T04:48:10.257" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The right &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/?gws_rd=ssl#q=local%203d%20scanning%20services&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Google&lt;/a&gt; (or other) search should do the trick. I've provided 3D Printing services via &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.3dhubs.com/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;3D Hubs&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.makexyz.com/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;MakeXYZ&lt;/a&gt; and some people do provide 3D scanning services. If you can't find 3D Scanning, you could try talking to a local machine shop. They might have the tools to be able to reverse-engineer the object, or know another place that can.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="98" LastActivityDate="2016-05-10T04:48:10.257" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1139" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1135" CreationDate="2016-05-10T06:30:49.387" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could try import it with &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.blender.org/download/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;blender&lt;/a&gt;. It's a free software which should be able to import the files.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First thing is to go the the File-&gt;User Preferences-&gt;Add Ons tab. In the Import-Export section, enable the 3DS Add-on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After that you can export it to the desired format. Before exporting you must select the model/mesh you want to export. Otherwise nothing will be exported. The obj exporter is enabled by default in blender.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1561" LastActivityDate="2016-05-10T06:30:49.387" CommentCount="15" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1143" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1152" CreationDate="2016-05-10T15:52:03.190" Score="4" ViewCount="329" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know there is a 3d printing technique, where sheet of papers are cut and glued. Like the ones &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.gizmag.com/staples-mcor-easy-3d-printing/25284/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Staples&lt;/a&gt; has in their stores. But this sort of paper isnt recyclable, because of the heavy use of glue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is anywhere filament available, which is made of cellulose or other recyclable and bio-degradable material? Or do you know if research is going on in this area?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;edit: added bio-degradable&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1169" LastEditorUserId="1169" LastEditDate="2016-05-11T16:42:51.830" LastActivityDate="2016-05-12T06:37:00.630" Title="Print paper or cellulose - any recyclable filament?" Tags="|filament|recycling|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1144" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1169" CreationDate="2016-05-11T06:45:35.900" Score="4" ViewCount="141" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have moved forward with the whole &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/1135/how-to-open-max-files&quot;&gt;.max thing&lt;/a&gt;. It's on the back burner. But not as critical now. I have found a Sketchup model of the model I want. But it is ridiculously small (0.17 m long by 0.10 m wide!).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do I enlarge it to fit my dimensions as a whole?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1722" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2022-06-17T11:37:32.133" LastActivityDate="2022-06-17T11:37:32.133" Title="How to enlarge a Sketchup Model" Tags="|3d-models|resolution|support-structures|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="1145" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="505" CreationDate="2016-05-11T08:07:09.220" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Aluminium gives low adherence. Probably because its top of surfaces gives temperature fast. But using conductive metals is the right direction. There are some benefits:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Electromagnetic induction allows to heat faster and reach higher temperatures with same current.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Non-transparency allows to use mirror under bed to make heating bonus.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But's:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It will expand when heated.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried &lt;a href=&quot;http://specialmeaning.blogspot.com/2016/04/3d-printing-on-titan.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;titan&lt;/a&gt;. Here is &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_vXyZGqwSAY&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;prooflink&lt;/a&gt;. Using 0.5 mm it gave good results on printing with temperature 120 degrees Celsius. But as I had bit crooked plate, I had to stop using it. Needing to heat it up 20 degrees more than glass makes it pointless, unless using microwave. Try &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Borosilicate_glass&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;borosilicate glass&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="630" LastEditorUserId="1333" LastEditDate="2016-11-25T12:23:16.620" LastActivityDate="2016-11-25T12:23:16.620" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1149" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1143" CreationDate="2016-05-11T19:28:00.890" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Check Green-TEC by &lt;a href=&quot;http://extrudr.eu/collections/bdp&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;extrudr.eu&lt;/a&gt; is made from lignin (wood)&#xA;or perhaps Algix Dura. They are both bio degradeable.&#xA;Green-TEC ist my favorite because of less warping and &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Oqx170kPmg4&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;fast printing&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1734" LastActivityDate="2016-05-11T19:28:00.890" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1150" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1201" CreationDate="2016-05-11T20:46:53.420" Score="19" ViewCount="4729" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am trying to make a structured light 3D scanner using single camera, light projector and a turntable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After days on Google I did not find any reliable open source project which I can get to work.  &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/jakobwilm/slstudio&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;SLStudio&lt;/a&gt; really seemed a good choice but did not compile properly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was wondering if anyone knows a good open source which they have used with the same kind of setup? Any help would be really appreciated. I am blocked here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1752" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2017-05-30T17:25:37.983" LastActivityDate="2021-02-17T21:34:12.330" Title="Open Source 3D scanning" Tags="|3d-design|open-source|scanning|" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1151" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1154" CreationDate="2016-05-11T22:38:09.423" Score="5" ViewCount="4666" Body="&lt;p&gt;After printing successfully for a while I received an error saying:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tool 0 Failure!&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Temp limit reached &lt;br&gt;&#xA;Shutdown or restart.&lt;br&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The front panel is not responsive and doesn't allow the printer to print at all. If I quickly go to monitor mode it shows tool 0 temperature in the ~700°C range; which made me think it was the thermocouple.On the motherboard I unplugged the thermocouple and the same error occurred, I then swapped the other thermocouple and put it in its place and got the same error except the tool 1 temperature showed &quot;NC&quot;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had recently taken apart the extruders to change out the nozzles and thought I had possibly smashed the wires when putting it together but now I don't think that's the case. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm on the phone with FlashForge's tech support but wanted to see if someone else has had the same experience for cross reference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What's the underlying issue? Is there a quick solution to this that can get me printing right away (I'm under a deadline)? What's the end solution?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="514" LastEditorUserId="168" LastEditDate="2016-06-16T14:43:21.940" LastActivityDate="2018-03-19T14:24:34.220" Title="FlashForge Creator Pro Tool Failure! Temp limit reached" Tags="|electronics|heat-management|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1152" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1143" CreationDate="2016-05-12T06:37:00.630" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Filament made of Polylactic acid (&lt;a href=&quot;http://reprap.org/wiki/PLA&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;PLA&lt;/a&gt;) is usually made of biological materials (such as corn), and can therefore be considered bio-degradable in most cases.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whether the filament is 100% bio-degradable (and non-toxic for the surroundings) will depend on the specific formula used by each individual filament manufacturer. (Many manufacturers include various additives to achieve particular effects, such as &lt;a href=&quot;http://3dprintingforbeginners.com/glow-in-the-dark-filament-review/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;glow-in-the-dark&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://colorfabb.com/bronzefill&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;metallic&lt;/a&gt; finish or extra strengh.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://colorfabb.com/woodfill-fine&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Woodfill PLA&lt;/a&gt;-like filament might be of extra interest to you, not only because it typically is bio-degradable, but also because it will give you the &lt;em&gt;look and feel&lt;/em&gt; of being bio-degradable. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope that helps!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;PS: there are multiple other filament types that are either recyclable, bio-degradable, or both, although PLA might be the most commonly available of them all.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="115" LastActivityDate="2016-05-12T06:37:00.630" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1153" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1150" CreationDate="2016-05-12T10:29:49.313" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Try &lt;a href=&quot;http://mesh.brown.edu/calibration/software.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Brown University School of Engineering: Projector-Camera Calibration / 3D Scanning Software&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have not tried it myself, but give it a look. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="508" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2017-05-30T17:29:24.740" LastActivityDate="2017-05-30T17:29:24.740" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1154" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1151" CreationDate="2016-05-12T14:53:37.023" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds like a failed TC amp chip. But we need to rule out some other stuff. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some important facts about the Creator Pro temp sensor:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you smash and short the two thermocouple wires together, the printer will simply read room temp.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you cut or disconnect the thermocouple wires, the printer will report NC for &quot;not connected.&quot;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The thermocouple lookup table in the firmware only goes up to 300C. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Seeing a number over 300C means either a bad thermocouple amp chip, or excess voltage on the TC wires due to a short to something else in the hot block. (However, such a short will usually fry the entire controller board to smithereens.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To rule out stray voltage entering the TC wires, completely detach both thermocouples from the hot blocks and lay them out not touching anything metal. Do you still get an unusually high reading on tool 0? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To rule out an issue with the specific thermocouple, swap thermocouples between tool 0 and tool 1 and see if the problem moves with the TCs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the TC is not touching anything, and the problem stays with the tool when you swap wires, and you STILL get &gt;300C reads, the thermocouple amp chip has failed. It is possible to replace the chip if you have (or your friend has) a hot air rework station and some experience soldering. Or you can get a new mainboard from FlashForge. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The next question is why this problem happened. You don't want to fix the symptoms with new parts but have an underlying issue cause the same failure to re-occur after you swap out parts. With the printer on but the heaters off, use a multimeter to check for voltage between the hot block and the printer's ground. Certain types of heater cartridge failure can short the hot block to +24v. This is highly dangerous and needs to be fixed before you continue using the printer. So make sure you check it before trying to repair anything else. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="298" LastActivityDate="2016-05-12T14:53:37.023" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1155" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="369" CreationDate="2016-05-12T15:29:46.483" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is an import function.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/foosel/OctoPrint/wiki/Plugin:-Cura&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://github.com/foosel/OctoPrint/wiki/Plugin:-Cura&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Btw. now in Cura 2.1 you'll also need to reimport your .ini.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regards :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1655" LastActivityDate="2016-05-12T15:29:46.483" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1156" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1158" CreationDate="2016-05-12T15:44:06.400" Score="7" ViewCount="7736" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Flashforge Creator Dual.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One corner of my print bed is warped down.  I am thinking about having a steel print bed made so it would tend to stay flat. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has anyone tried this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1397" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2016-11-27T15:12:39.727" LastActivityDate="2017-07-17T06:32:49.200" Title="Would a steel, instead of an aluminium, plate be reasonable?" Tags="|heated-bed|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1157" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1156" CreationDate="2016-05-12T16:08:26.827" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would consider getting another aluminum build plate for the following reasons:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Lightweight&lt;/strong&gt;. Aluminum is a very lightweight metal, making it suitable for most machines that have injection molded platform arms. This reduces potential sagging of the arms and overall load on the -Z- axis stepper motor.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Conductivity&lt;/strong&gt;. Referring to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/thermal-conductivity-d_429.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; simple Google search for heat conductivity, aluminum is significantly more conductive than steel (205 vs 43 respectively) with copper at about double that of aluminum.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Availability&lt;/strong&gt;. Aluminum is already a widely used material for 3D printing, so finding one will be relatively easy and probably cheaper than having a steel build plate custom made.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In conclusion, I personally would not recommend using steel for your build plate as aluminum seems to have the most benefits. Yes, steel will be more rigid and durable, but I don't think that these should be variables that are significantly more beneficial over aluminum.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="98" LastEditorUserId="98" LastEditDate="2016-05-13T00:36:30.020" LastActivityDate="2016-05-13T00:36:30.020" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1158" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1156" CreationDate="2016-05-12T17:42:49.340" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Whether you should use steel or aluminum depends on the construction of your print bed stack. Either will work, but there are trade-offs involved.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Various considerations that may come into play:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A flat sheet of aluminum has better &lt;strong&gt;stiffness/weight ratio&lt;/strong&gt; than a flat sheet of steel. If weight/mass is a concern, such as with a Mendel style moving Y-bed, aluminum may be superior to an equivalent stiffness steel sheet. On the other hand, steel has the superior &lt;strong&gt;stiffness/thickness ratio&lt;/strong&gt;, so if the total thickness of the plate is constrained, such as by the printer's mounting hardware, steel may be higher performance. In short, for sheets of equivalent stiffness, aluminum will be thicker but lighter. That may or may not matter for your specific printer. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Differential thermal expansion can be an issue, depending on what the plate is attached to. For example, rigidly bolting a steel sheet to an aluminum sub-frame will cause the structure to warp when its temperature changes. Likewise for bolting an aluminum sheet to a steel sub-frame. Bed mounts that &quot;float&quot; will not cause warping in either case. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;All kinds of rolled sheet metal may have a tendency to warp when heated/cooled, due to residual stresses and grain alignment effects from manufacture. When people want extreme dimensional stability for the flattest and lowest-warp print bed possible, an aluminum cast tooling plate material such as MIC 6 is usually used. The MIC 6 sheet is then precision ground to be flat. Of course, that adds cost. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Neither aluminum nor steel is a particularly good &lt;em&gt;bare&lt;/em&gt; print surface. Either will need some kind of adhesion layer, like Kapton tape or gluestick. The adhesion layer matters far more than the type of metal underneath.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Aluminum sheets are often used as &lt;strong&gt;heat-spreaders&lt;/strong&gt; to even out the bed temperature of heated beds. This is very important when heaters are smaller than the total bed size, or have hot spots. (Most heaters do have hot spots.) Steel is a relatively poor conductor of heat, so the surface of the bed will take longer to heat up and will be less even. That may or may not be an issue, depending on the printer and desired materials. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, it's really a holistic design decision. Aluminum is far more common because of its thermal properties and lower weight, but steel print beds (particularly with permanent adhesion coatings) are often used too. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="298" LastActivityDate="2016-05-12T17:42:49.340" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1160" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1162" CreationDate="2016-05-13T09:25:18.297" Score="11" ViewCount="502" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use Prusa i3 with one extruder for some years and I would like to print from one material in two colors or from different materials for one model. Therefore I'm lookig for new printer with dual extruder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there some way how to measure and/or compare quality of printers with dual extruder on the market?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example to create 3d model - ask the seller(s) to print it - and then compare? - what details to focus on?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1190" LastActivityDate="2022-12-20T06:13:29.563" Title="How to choose printer with dual extruder?" Tags="|dual-nozzle|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1161" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1163" CreationDate="2016-05-13T13:12:06.020" Score="7" ViewCount="4256" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently started to use Simplify3D! It is great software, but I have a problem with adjustment of amount of plastic extruded. I have a slight under extrusion after I adjusted amount of plastic extruded using  perimeter test (Printing a square with wall thickness of one layer, measuring, adjusting extrusion multiplier). I suggest that there is under extrusion by looking at top layer (there is distance between layers) and there are gaps around holes as well. I'm using Ultimaker two and colorFabb filament. I can resolve problems by increasing extrusion multiplier, but then I have incorrect layer width :/&#xA;I have also attached picture. &lt;a href=&quot;http://postimg.org/image/keghmu075/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://postimg.org/image/keghmu075/&lt;/a&gt; On a right side, there is a part with correct extrusion multiplier (under extrusion). &#xA;Maybe you guys have some ideas?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="787" LastEditorUserId="98" LastEditDate="2016-06-09T01:57:00.823" LastActivityDate="2016-06-09T01:57:00.823" Title="Extrusion adjustment" Tags="|software|slicing|extrusion|simplify3d|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1162" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1160" CreationDate="2016-05-13T13:36:31.877" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;As you suggest yourself, ordering test prints of some model is one way to do it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.3dhubs.com&quot;&gt;3D Hubs&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.makexyz.com/&quot;&gt;MakeXYZ&lt;/a&gt; allows you to get your model printed by hobbyists and small businesses for a fair price. Both sites also allow you to order prints based on printer type, which I believe is what you may be looking for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On 3D Hubs, visit on of the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.3dhubs.com/trends&quot;&gt;trend reports&lt;/a&gt;, and select the printer you want a sample from. Similarly, on MakeXYZ, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.makexyz.com/3dprinters/&quot;&gt;search local makers&lt;/a&gt; for your desired printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="115" LastEditorUserId="115" LastEditDate="2016-05-13T16:12:46.980" LastActivityDate="2016-05-13T16:12:46.980" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1163" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1161" CreationDate="2016-05-13T16:12:16.263" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;SHORT ANSWER&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You're not supposed to do the single-wall perimeter thickness test to calibrate Simplify3D. That screws up the extrusion volume. The correct volume calibration procedure for S3D is: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Measure actual average filament diameter and input that&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Print a 100% infill calibration cubes&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If the print is over-extruded (top or sides bulging), decrease Extrusion Multiplier by about 0.05 and try again. If the print is under-extruded or looks clean, increase Extrusion Multiplier by about 0.05 and try again.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Repeat as needed to dial it in. The correct value of Extrusion Multiplier is the largest value that does not produce over-extruded prints. This produces minimum void volume and strong parts.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In the future, that specific material+extruder combination will always have the same extrusion multiplier. You only need to measure and input filament diameter and you will always get accurate volume output. (And if you use high-quality filament with consistent diameter, you don't even really need to measure the diameter.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you really want to measure perimeters, you can do 3 perimeters and divide the measurement by 3. That takes into account most of the overlap and will be much closer to accurate than a single-perimeter measurement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;COMPLETE ANSWER&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The goal here is to fill the print volume as completely as possible (at least in the &quot;solid&quot; parts of the print like perimeters, roofs, and floors). Empty space between strands doesn't contribute to part strength. In fact, voids act as failure initiation sites by concentrating stresses. Because extruded strands come out with rounded edges, they have to be &lt;strong&gt;overlapped&lt;/strong&gt; to squeeze plastic into gaps and minimize &quot;corner voids.&quot; That looks like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mcSqs.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mcSqs.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Where the bulges overlap, the excess plastic gets pushed into the corners to &lt;em&gt;mostly&lt;/em&gt; fill the voids. It's very difficult to get 100% packing density, but you can get pretty close if you calibrate volume correctly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WyZkl.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WyZkl.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You DO NOT want to space the strands without overlap. That makes very weak prints and looks like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QGKY6.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QGKY6.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To get the right amount of strand overlap, the slicer has to do some math and make some assumptions about how you're calibrating it. This is not uniform between software packages. So it's important to understand what &quot;extrusion width&quot; means to different slicers. For a couple prominent examples:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Slic3r treats &quot;extrusion width&quot; as the measured outside dimension of a stack of strands. Adjacent strands are then positioned closer together than the nominal width according to a somewhat complicated equation to get sufficient overlap for bonding.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;S3D treats &quot;extrusion width&quot; as the average width of the stack of strands, which is the equivalent width if the plastic strands were extruded as ideal rectangles instead of a stack of ovals. Adjacent strands are positioned 1x nominal extrusion width apart. That provides the correct amount of overlap without any extra math. But each individual strand is really somewhat wider than the nominal &quot;width.&quot;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gtCAm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gtCAm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both of these techniques can produce the exact same output if calibrated properly, but they require different calibration techniques because they calculate the plastic volume and adjacent strand spacing different ways. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's important to understand that S3D spaces its strands 1x extrusion width apart. When you use the measured perimeter thickness to calibrate Simplify3D for extrusion width setting = measured thickness, you get under-extruded prints with no strand overlap. &lt;strong&gt;S3D's strands must measure wider than the &quot;width&quot; setting to get the correct overlap.&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In practice, S3D's code is smart enough to know how this affects print dimenions, and will adjust perimeter positions to get accurate overall dimensions. But single-wall test boxes will be thicker than expected. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The downside to the way Slic3r calculates volume is that it is only accurate for strands that are shaped like ovals. And that is only an accurate assumption when [extrusion width &gt; nozzle width + layer height]. The strand must be wide enough for molten plastic to flow sideways and develop the circular bulge cross-section. So people almost always print with wider strands in Slic3r than is strictly necessary. The volume calculations don't work all that well with thin strands. Whereas S3D's volume calculation method works fine with pretty much any extrusion width greater than layer height and greater than nozzle diameter. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are pros and cons to both systems. You just need to understand the correct calibration technique for each. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="298" LastEditorUserId="298" LastEditDate="2016-05-25T17:31:57.253" LastActivityDate="2016-05-25T17:31:57.253" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1164" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1175" CreationDate="2016-05-13T17:06:02.507" Score="1" ViewCount="376" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is related to &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/801/cons-to-uv-printing/&quot;&gt;Cons to UV printing&lt;/a&gt; and focused on &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/801/cons-to-uv-printing#816&quot;&gt;Ryan Carlyle's answer&lt;/a&gt;, mentioning:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&quot;...resin-curing SLA/DLP printers are industrial or commercial tools that are really not suitable for home desktop use.&quot;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, my general question is what are the pros to using a DLP printer in an manufacturing environment?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My experience with 3D printing in manufacturing has shown me the necessity of understanding material strengths as well as how to utilize the 3D printing technology (FDM mostly) to produce a structurally strong part. Most of what I've made has been fixtures with small to moderate forces applied to them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In short, are there any technological advantages to using a DLP printer in a manufacturing environment?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="98" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2021-01-22T19:46:19.100" LastActivityDate="2021-01-22T22:32:18.180" Title="Pros to UV printing" Tags="|resin|sla|dlp|uv-printer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1165" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1170" CreationDate="2016-05-14T02:39:17.017" Score="7" ViewCount="456" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 3D model that I'd like to print. This is my first project, so I'm trying to decide if I'm getting in over my head. Here's the model rendered with Blender:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/N1cVF.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/N1cVF.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I throw it at a commercial printing shoppe, is it going to be fairly straight forward? Or is it unlikely to be able to get the colours fitting together like this to work well?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1790" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2020-07-13T11:30:53.513" LastActivityDate="2020-07-13T11:30:53.513" Title="Is this model feasible to print?" Tags="|3d-models|3d-design|services|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1166" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="223" CreationDate="2016-05-14T02:53:33.710" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;When printing thin cylinders vertically,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Slow print speed, to avoid rocking the model.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;no shells, just one nozzle thick, so you don't need fill.  Fill can easily rock the print.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Print at least 2 at a time at the smallest layer thickness you can do.  This causes the hot end to have to move away from one cylinder to get to the next.  This gives each cylinder layer some extra time too cool and harden before the next layer goes on.  I generally print .1 or .05 for cylinders.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your slicer may have a setting that tells it to wait between layers so the plastic has more time to cool.   I think the setting is called ORBIT on mine.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Consider following up with an acetone vapor bath to help seal the pores in the print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1397" LastEditorUserId="1397" LastEditDate="2018-12-04T14:07:56.173" LastActivityDate="2018-12-04T14:07:56.173" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="1167" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1172" CreationDate="2016-05-14T03:31:20.547" Score="2" ViewCount="519" Body="&lt;p&gt;I printed a big base for a model, but the corners of the bottom bent up, making the whole base rock when set on a table. Is there a quick fix for a makerbot2 without a heated plate?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1634" LastActivityDate="2016-05-15T09:58:56.890" Title="How could I keep the material on the print plate from bending up on a makerbot 2?" Tags="|makerbot|print-quality|warping|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1168" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1165" CreationDate="2016-05-14T03:34:12.607" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You would need to ask around shops to see what they think about this 3d file. What I have heard is that colors of prints end up blended together, and that the print resolution is low. How many colors are you using? You could probably get a quality print, but it would come with a high price. Print quality is dependent on the expensiveness of the machine used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1634" LastActivityDate="2016-05-14T03:34:12.607" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1169" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1144" CreationDate="2016-05-14T05:28:15.317" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Use Cura middle button in bottom&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Hc1s8.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Hc1s8.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="630" LastActivityDate="2016-05-14T05:28:15.317" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1170" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1165" CreationDate="2016-05-14T06:28:31.463" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here is a set of options you can get:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;print the object on multi color printer&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately we got some limitations here (on the market). Printers have limited set of heads which are in fact printing in one color at a time. So we usually have 2 colors, there are also 4 color heads. If there are more then they are rare, expensive or rare and expensive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;here are examples of such color printouts:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yzU5gs.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yzU5gs.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;click to go to the project&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:329436&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;project&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wgYj6s.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wgYj6s.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;click to go to the project&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:67503&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;project&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol start=&quot;2&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;print object splitted&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this case you can have single color printer. You print parts in one color then you change filament and print other color and so on. The issue here is to have well formed object which is designed for such print method (it's connectable in some way) or you can stick printed parts with the glue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;here are examples of such puzzled printouts: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xT33Es.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xT33Es.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;click to go to the project&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:642211&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;project&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EEIOks.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EEIOks.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;click to go to the project&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1360459&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;project&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol start=&quot;3&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;print and paint&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;here are examples of such painted printouts: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BbzNGs.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BbzNGs.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;click to go to the project&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1333103&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;project&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oZP7Qs.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oZP7Qs.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;click to go to the project&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:459472&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;project&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;NOTE:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All above assumes that you are gonna print your object in FDM technology. You can also take a look on &lt;a href=&quot;http://3dprintingfromscratch.com/common/types-of-3d-printers-or-3d-printing-technologies-overview&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;other technologies&lt;/a&gt; such as:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Stereolithography(SLA)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Digital Light Processing(DLP)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Selective Laser Sintering (SLS)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Selective laser melting (SLM)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Electronic Beam Melting (EBM)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Laminated object manufacturing (LOM)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1211" LastEditorUserId="1211" LastEditDate="2016-05-16T05:13:55.690" LastActivityDate="2016-05-16T05:13:55.690" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1171" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1167" CreationDate="2016-05-14T09:01:37.813" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;here are the options:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use brim settings which increase contact surface.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use some sort of glue. People are using many things including hairspray. I do prefer paper glue stick.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1211" LastEditorUserId="1211" LastEditDate="2016-05-14T10:08:33.870" LastActivityDate="2016-05-14T10:08:33.870" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1172" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1167" CreationDate="2016-05-14T10:06:57.430" Score="3" Body="&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Consider using a different material. Since you're on a replicator 2 you're probably not printing with ABS (which would be a terrible choice for a large, flat model) but probably with PLA. Perhaps you could try printing with PET(G) instead, which tends to warp even less.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You could try modifying your model a little. If you include several grooves in the bottom surface of your model that may provide some &quot;strain relief&quot; so-to-speak, preventing warping.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Increase adhesion: print your initial layer slower, closer to the build surface, at a higher temperature, with a brim, and with some kind of print surface to increase adhesion (tape/glue/hairspray).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Increase ambient temperature. The Replicator 2 does not have a heated bed, but you could still make the cooling more gradual by enclosing the printer, shielding it from drafts, etc...&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastActivityDate="2016-05-14T10:06:57.430" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1173" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1165" CreationDate="2016-05-14T17:42:22.287" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Getting this printed at a professional print shop will be quite straightforward, given that you prepare the model nicely for printing (i.e. make it a watertight, manifold mesh).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could print the pieces separately and assemble them later. You might also look in to getting this printed in one piece with the colors already in place on a ProJet machine, which is available as &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.shapeways.com/materials/full-color-sandstone&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&quot;Full Color Sandstone&quot; on Shapeways&lt;/a&gt;. This might be a nice option for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With regards to printing the pieces separately you could go with pretty much any printing process, bearing in mind that FDM will offer the greatest range of available colors but the worst surface finish. You could try SLS instead (White Strong&amp;amp;Flexible on Shapeways) which is a white material that can be dyed with fabric dyes (such as RIT and Dylon) to achieve any desired color. Of course, anything you get printed (regardless of the material) could also be painted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you decide to get this made in FDM then make sure to choose a nice orientation for the pieces (minimizing overhangs) so you get the best quality possible. The print shop may be able to help you with this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Getting the parts to fit together will not be a problem if you keep a little bit of clearance (around 0.2-0.5mm) between parts that interlock.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastActivityDate="2016-05-14T17:42:22.287" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1174" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1167" CreationDate="2016-05-14T18:01:37.340" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Try printing with a raft, and adding &quot;helper discs&quot; to expand the size of the raft. You might also try lowering your extruder temperature a bit to reduce the cooling temperature differential.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1799" LastActivityDate="2016-05-14T18:01:37.340" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1175" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1164" CreationDate="2016-05-15T01:16:17.947" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;When using a DLP 3D printer, a projector (or other UV light source) is shining on a layer of resin.  As the light source shines on a whole layer at a time, it is able to print at a rather constant linear vertical rate. This rate is normally around 2.5 cm (1 inch)/hour&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When comparing this to a standard FDM printer or a single laser system (such as the &lt;a href=&quot;http://fslaser.com/Products/View/1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Pegasus Touch&lt;/a&gt;. The printer takes more time on more complicated layers. If a you were able to print the same 2.5 cm (1 inch), at 0.3 mm layer height, it would be a total of ~85 layers. This would allow for ~42 seconds per layer. Most layers would take longer from this (from personal experience).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With the constant layer rate, multiple objects can also be printed at once because if the printer has to print the layer for the first object, it is not taking more time for it to cure resin in another location on the print bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition to this, DLP printers can have much better resolutions than FDM printers.  A DLP printer such as the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.kudo3d.com/products/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Titan 1&lt;/a&gt; has a 37 μm XY resolution while a Prusa i3 has a resolution closer to 300 or 400 μm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="43" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-01-22T22:32:18.180" LastActivityDate="2021-01-22T22:32:18.180" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="1176" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1165" CreationDate="2016-05-15T01:21:38.757" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The simplest and cheapest method to have this object printed would be to have individual STL files for each part and give these to the print shop with the color of each piece.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Printing as a single piece would be much more expensive as more advance methods would be needed as mentioned in the other answers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="43" LastActivityDate="2016-05-15T01:21:38.757" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1177" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-15T04:22:44.357" Score="1" ViewCount="137" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know that the SLS 3D printer stands for selective laser sintering,where as DMLS stands for direct metal laser sintering.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to know that,can i convert SLS 3D printer to DMLS.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By just changing powder(or another way?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1800" LastActivityDate="2016-05-16T05:37:59.910" Title="SLS 3D printer to DMLS 3D printer" Tags="|sls|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1179" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1177" CreationDate="2016-05-15T21:48:47.560" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;By just changing powder: No.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Changing the powder, the laser and the chamber, maybe you can get something, but it's not recommended.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;DMLS machines use a sealed chamber with a flow of Argon, Nitrogen, or other gas to prevent oxidation of metal powder (and avoid fire or explosions).&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Laser power for metal needs to be of higher power than that used por polymer laser sintering (SLS, SLM, LS, etc).&lt;br&gt;&#xA;BTW. DMLS also need a metallic build plate to dissipate heat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1806" LastEditorUserId="1806" LastEditDate="2016-05-15T22:01:10.940" LastActivityDate="2016-05-15T22:01:10.940" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1180" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1181" CreationDate="2016-05-16T02:05:59.790" Score="2" ViewCount="2050" Body="&lt;p&gt;Do 3D printers prefer particular topology?  In case I'm not using the word quite right, I'm specifically wondering if I should make the faces in my models:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;triangles&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;quads&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;n-gons.. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1790" LastActivityDate="2016-05-16T05:09:03.960" Title="Do 3D Printers Prefer Particular Topology?" Tags="|3d-models|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1181" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1180" CreationDate="2016-05-16T05:09:03.960" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The most common file format in 3D printing is &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/STL_(file_format)&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;STL&lt;/a&gt;. This file format is using triangles only so when you export an object from your CAD application to STL then exporter has to transform all n-gon faces into triangles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once the file is created then it is usually imported by slicer application (or module) which performs slicing using &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Polynomial_interpolation&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;polynomial calculation&lt;/a&gt; to find intersection with next surfaces. Here is &lt;a href=&quot;https://sourceforge.net/projects/jsclipper/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;good example&lt;/a&gt; of such intersection finding in javascript.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So answering your question:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;no - it doesn't matter as you usually use file format in which faces are triangles but&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;yes - it matters as all your n-gon faces needs to be transformed into triangles&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1211" LastActivityDate="2016-05-16T05:09:03.960" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1182" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1177" CreationDate="2016-05-16T05:37:59.910" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Totally agreed with the answer provided.To add to that answer, the use of DMLS lies on the thickness and material limitations of SLS method. So, regarding the amount of thickness, the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.atlanticprecision.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;original source&lt;/a&gt; of sizing for both the methods vary drastically and hence cannot be inter-converted. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1810" LastActivityDate="2016-05-16T05:37:59.910" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1185" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-16T08:05:07.393" Score="3" ViewCount="5646" Body="&lt;p&gt;How can I set an offset in &lt;em&gt;y&lt;/em&gt; or &lt;em&gt;x&lt;/em&gt; axis so that I can move the position of my printed object. I have tried doing this with so many options in Repetier, and in Slic3r, and still nothing, please, have you got any ideas?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First Edit:&#xA;I have added an image of the changes I have done, nothing of this works for me&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QgFIr.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QgFIr.png&quot; alt=&quot;Image of RepetierHost and Slic3r&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1814" LastEditorUserId="98" LastEditDate="2016-06-09T01:58:33.930" LastActivityDate="2016-06-09T01:58:33.930" Title="Offset in X or Y axis" Tags="|slic3r|slicing|repetier|repetier-host|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1186" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1185" CreationDate="2016-05-16T08:47:01.320" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are two things which shouldn't be mixed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Position of the object relative to its own coordinate system.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In general object doesn't have specific position stored inside. Which is obvious as structure of the object should store construction of an object but not its position. So position is relation-to-something so to speak and because object itself doesn't contain any information about object environment then there is no position stored.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But there is one hack. All coordinates stored inside object are in fact a realtion to some starting point. Let's say it's a zero-point or starting point of the coordinate system of the object. This is sometimes anoying because it's usually bottom left corner or center of the object. Unfortunately some applications store this starting point out of the object. This means that object has starting point in some point but this point is outside of the object itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This cause the situation when user loads an object in another application then object is translated in &quot;strange&quot; position.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol start=&quot;2&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Position of the object in printing application.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When user loads an object into printing application then object is usualy set in the center of build plate. This also sounds obvious but if inner coordinate system of the object is translated then object can be repositioned even out of the build plate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So what is the solution for such situation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are two options.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Manage object coordinate system in the application which create STL file  or convert object into STL format or&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Manage (switch off) option called &quot;center on build plate&quot; or &quot;center on the bed&quot; or &quot;center object&quot; or &quot;auto-center parts&quot; in printing application.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then it will be possible (or easier) to position object according to user needs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another issue is STL object which is in fact kinda assembly of separate objects. If you encounter such situation. See &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:337423&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here for example&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/a2uAls.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/a2uAls.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:337423&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These two guys are stored in one STL file so they have common coordinate system and common starting point. All above applies to such assembly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Applications allows user to split such assembly into separate objects so each one can be repositioned separately. But be careful - split can disassemble parts of the object itself. In the example the tounge of the trex is 3rd object in the assembly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In terms of mentioned aps:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Reptier: go to object placement &quot;tab&quot; and &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.repetier.com/documentation/repetier-host-mac/object-placement&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;set position manually&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Slic3r: go to Printer settings and &lt;a href=&quot;http://manual.slic3r.org/simple-mode/simple-mode#printer-settings&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;set &quot;print center&quot;&lt;/a&gt;, also you can switch off File &gt; Preferences &gt; Auto-center parts&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;MetterControl: go to printer &gt; print area and &lt;a href=&quot;http://wiki.mattercontrol.com/Settings/Printer/Print_Area/Size_and_Coordinates/Print_Center&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;set print center&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1211" LastEditorUserId="1211" LastEditDate="2016-05-17T04:34:26.837" LastActivityDate="2016-05-17T04:34:26.837" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1187" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1191" CreationDate="2016-05-16T12:11:49.243" Score="5" ViewCount="411" Body="&lt;p&gt;Will an inconsistent vertex density likely introduce artifacts in a print?  Or is it OK as long as it's a smooth surface?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FmO9L.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FmO9L.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1790" LastEditorUserId="98" LastEditDate="2016-06-09T02:00:16.790" LastActivityDate="2016-06-09T02:00:16.790" Title="Is inconsistent vertex density a bad thing?" Tags="|3d-models|3d-design|slicing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1190" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="637" CreationDate="2016-05-16T14:48:00.027" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Makerbot will accept obj files also. &#xA;Is there an error while importing the obj file?&#xA;Also you can see errors of your imported file in your makerbot&#xA;It will be marked in black.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pggIz.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pggIz.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please make sure your object is a watertight mesh. As I have seen its easy to make a surface model in sketchup. A 3D Printer cannot print something in surface. &#xA;You can also try importing to netfabb to check if the part has errors in it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want a better modeling software, I suggest you to check out OnShape. &#xA;Its a cloud based cad software. Its free as well. (10 private files, beyond that everything is public. 100$ per month i think)&#xA;www.onshape.com&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1586" LastActivityDate="2016-05-16T14:48:00.027" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1191" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1187" CreationDate="2016-05-16T15:51:57.763" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;For the most part, the exact level of vertex density doesn't matter too much. But it does depend on the slicer and settings. Some slicers (like Slic3r) will auto-decimate toolpaths to ensure that the rate of motion commands isn't too difficult for the old, slow 8bit processors in most consumer/hobbyist 3d printers. Having a large number of very small motion commands can bog down these motion controllers and cause pause-stuttering that creates little zits on the print. Most slicers simply reduce model detail level to safeguard the motion controller. Because the contours are decimated to a minimum motion segment length, very small model triangles are irrelevant to printer performance. At the most, they might add a marginal amount of slicing time. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other hand, some slicers (like Simplify3d) assume you have the correct level of detail you want in your model, and will pretty faithfully reproduce the model file's contours in the sliced toolpath. If your entire model is very high mesh density / poly count in general, or if your high-density mesh regions are crossed by a layer slice, this can produce a series of very, very short motion commands. Sometimes the motion commands are even smaller than the motion resolution of the printer, and simply take up processor time (to evaluate and drop from the queue) with no benefit to print fidelity. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In a more general sense, high-poly models are dramatically more difficult for the 3d printer to reproduce accurately. There are two big issues: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Each motion segment requires some processor time to read/receive, parse, and execute. But the shorter the segment lengths are, the faster the printer runs through them. A short move takes little time to perform but still has the same processor load as a long move. At a certain point, the processor can't keep up, and performance suffers. The printer may run out of queued moves to execute and pause in place, or it may violate acceleration limits and violently clunk through corners (or even lose position) because it didn't have enough time to iterate through the calculations that determine how fast it should move.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The algorithms used by most consumer/hobbyist 3d printer firmwares (Marlin, Repetier, Sailfish, Smoothieware, etc) are based on GRBL. And without getting into the math, GRBL uses the sharpness of the corners between motion segments to decide how fast to travel through the corner. So a 90 degree turn will trigger a considerable slowdown, while a series of small angles (such as many small segments comprising a curved surface) is not recognized by the algorithm, and it will try to barrel through the curve at full speed. On long, gentle curves, this is fine, but high-poly &lt;em&gt;tight&lt;/em&gt; curves (such as a filleted edge or organic model detail) are traversed far too fast because no slowdowns are triggered. This means high-poly models must be printed at much lower feedrates / target speeds, because the acceleration algorithm can't figure out when to go fast or slow. Whereas a blocky, low-poly model can be printed much faster and the acceleration code will speed up and slow down as needed for good quality. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These are primarily issues with high vertex density versus low vertex density, not variable density. Small pockets of high detail are usually not problematic, as long as they are small enough that the motion planner queue (say, 16 segments) doesn't get filled with too many very small movements. A few small segments in a row is ok, but a few dozen is not. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These are limitations baked into the algorithms used by today's slicers and motion controllers. In the future, they may not be so problematic. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="298" LastActivityDate="2016-05-16T15:51:57.763" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1192" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1150" CreationDate="2016-05-17T17:58:53.450" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is not structured light. This uses a laser:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://hci.rwth-aachen.de/fabscan&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://hci.rwth-aachen.de/fabscan&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But it is completely open source software / open source hardware.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See also here:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:14198&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:14198&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hBueeqDJ6rQ&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hBueeqDJ6rQ&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="204" LastActivityDate="2016-05-17T17:58:53.450" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1193" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-18T03:58:09.400" Score="4" ViewCount="7681" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am going through some of the basics about one of the 3D printing techniques - Selective Laser Sintering, and I am confused between the above mentioned parameters - scan distance and hatch distance. Are they the same ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do we calculate the value - the overlapped area of two parallel scan lines in linear scanning technique. There must be some area of overlapping for the selective laser sintering to work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any idea ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1833" LastEditorUserId="98" LastEditDate="2016-05-27T16:39:57.763" LastActivityDate="2016-05-27T16:39:57.763" Title="Hatch Distance and Scan Distance" Tags="|sls|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1194" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1150" CreationDate="2016-05-18T04:06:20.403" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have also been looking for some free or paid software for doing 3D scanning and the closest I have found to something that might work is this&lt;a href=&quot;http://wedidstuff.heavyimage.com/index.php/2013/07/12/open-source-photogrammetry-workflow/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://wedidstuff.heavyimage.com/index.php/2013/07/12/open-source-photogrammetry-workflow/&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;But it isn't Structure from light (doesn't use a projector)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to stick with Structured Light then I would suggest looking into openCV (&lt;a href=&quot;http://docs.opencv.org/trunk/d1/d90/group__structured__light.html#gsc.tab=0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://docs.opencv.org/trunk/d1/d90/group__structured__light.html#gsc.tab=0&lt;/a&gt;) I havn't looked into this much but it looks like you might be able to get something working with it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1476" LastActivityDate="2016-05-18T04:06:20.403" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1195" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="957" CreationDate="2016-05-18T04:42:23.910" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;With Cura (a 3d printing software) you can go to the Expert tab and click Open Settings and you will see under an area called Black Magic, an option to Spiralize the outer contour.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="635" LastActivityDate="2016-05-18T04:42:23.910" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1196" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1197" CreationDate="2016-05-18T06:49:31.870" Score="2" ViewCount="909" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've built a a PrintrBot inspired printer with a moving printbed for the X-Axis movement. It's controlled by a RAMPS board running Marlin firmware. And there is a problem with the X-Axis positioning.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cIoZV.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cIoZV.png&quot; alt=&quot;Four S-Shaped blocks&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As can be seen in the image the X-Axis is not really stable. The blocks should be 10x10x10 mm, and the top and bottom are perfect. The waving does not appear in the Y-direction, it's only in the direction of the bed movement.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Each block was printed at different speed, from medium to dead-slow. I limited the acceleration and in the last block I also limited the non-printing speed so the bed would never experience a higher acceleration than with the printing itself. But the wave effect remains. And it's also remarkably repeatable so it looks more like a synchronisation error somewhere. Does anyone has a clue, or experienced a similar effect ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1840" LastActivityDate="2016-05-18T17:31:48.210" Title="'Sine wave' deviation in X-Axis on moving bed printer." Tags="|print-quality|marlin|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1197" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1196" CreationDate="2016-05-18T09:44:07.230" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is the issue of your z-axis rather than x- or y-axis because printing speed doesn't have any influence on the results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I bet:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;your threded rods are bent or&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;nuts on these rods have too high clearance or&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;nuts on these rods have eccentricity or&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;couplings (between motor and threded rods) are bent or&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;these couplings are badly fitted&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All above suggestions concern z-axis.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;[edit]&lt;/strong&gt; because it's PrintBot its z-axis has the following disadvantage&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/a6QGr.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/a6QGr.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1211" LastEditorUserId="1211" LastEditDate="2016-05-18T17:31:48.210" LastActivityDate="2016-05-18T17:31:48.210" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1198" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="850" CreationDate="2016-05-19T01:42:13.897" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know this is an old thread but I have been running into similar issues with my delta machine with Marlin firmware.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not all printers running Marlin ignore large &lt;code&gt;E&lt;/code&gt; (extruder) moves.  G-code has always (even in CNC machines) run commands from were the motors are now, to the value in the G-code line.  For example, &lt;code&gt;G0 X10&lt;/code&gt; will move the X motor 10 units.  The units are set through &lt;code&gt;G20&lt;/code&gt; or &lt;code&gt;G21&lt;/code&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When your machine has lost power, you need to re-home all axes in order for the machine to know where it is.  If you don't, it will likely think that it currently is at 0, 0, 0, 0.  Then when you have the line, &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;G1 F3600 X210.390 Y105.771 E4104.65185 &#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;it will try to go from 0,0,0,0 to 210.390, 105.771, 0, 4104.65185 at the feed rate of 3600. Therefore it is always good to home after power loss and add a &lt;code&gt;G92 E4104.4&lt;/code&gt; (last line ran before power loss) even if your machine may not need it.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good habits make for less mistakes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1846" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2017-05-31T05:48:40.680" LastActivityDate="2017-05-31T05:48:40.680" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1199" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-19T03:43:21.767" Score="4" ViewCount="1838" Body="&lt;p&gt;How can I obtain a smooth finish like the one in this video: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u6_xQLPslAY&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Easy and clean support material removal from 3D printed part.&lt;/a&gt;, using Slic3r instead of Simplify3D? What settings do I need to change? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1814" LastActivityDate="2016-05-19T06:36:02.893" Title="Smooth finish in Slic3r using Support Material" Tags="|slic3r|slicing|smoothing|support-material|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1200" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1199" CreationDate="2016-05-19T06:36:02.893" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd say the clue is the material itself and the geometry of the object. But in terms of Slic3r settings you could experiment with:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(print settings &gt;&gt; support material)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;pattern spacing (he has here something around 5mm)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;pattern (I'd say the best for you is rectlinear)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;contact z distance (choose 0.2 or close to that)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;interface layers (here 0 (zero) for sure)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;don't support bridges (this one depends on your geometry and if slic3r calculates something as a bridge or not)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All above is also connected (in a way) with HE temperature and layer height. Usualy the higher temperature (in a range for specific material) the better sticking between layers. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1211" LastActivityDate="2016-05-19T06:36:02.893" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1201" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1150" CreationDate="2016-05-19T09:10:38.250" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I got some really useful resources here but I got rid of structured light approach because of lesser resources.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I used &lt;a href=&quot;http://ccwu.me/vsfm/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;VisualSFM(.exe)&lt;/a&gt; , &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/mrquincle/visualsfm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;VisualSFM(source)&lt;/a&gt; with the turntable for the purpose and got some pretty neat results. Works well and easy to use. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1752" LastActivityDate="2016-05-19T09:10:38.250" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1202" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-19T20:03:29.113" Score="7" ViewCount="632" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just received my E3D v6 hotend and I am installing it on the open source design of a Prusa i3. How do I clean my hotend after each print and after using different filaments?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="635" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-09-30T10:23:12.447" LastActivityDate="2019-09-30T10:23:12.447" Title="Cleaning E3D hotend and tuning with Cura?" Tags="|hotend|e3d-v6|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="1203" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1202" CreationDate="2016-05-19T20:44:04.227" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Usually there is no need to clean the hotend, as filament sticks well to itself rather than to the inside of the hotend. If there are remains - the simplest way to clean it up is to extrude 5-10 cm of new filament, which will gather all remainings clean the hotend.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The above concerns changing filament in the same group of plastic. So if you print PLA you can switch colors/manufacturers and so on without issues. The same goes for ABS.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is also usually no problem when switching from PLA to ABS.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The worst scenario is to switch from ABS to PLA. This is because the extruding temperature of these two materials is different. Unfortunately ABS can have such a high melting temperature that the PLA will burn. So having a dirty hotend with ABS remainings, there is no way to extrude PLA to clean the hotend because the PLA temperature will not result in melting ABS. It can eventually lead to total plug of HE.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So what can you do when you are in such a situation (ABS -&gt; PLA)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can clean the hotend first with ABS. Extrude some, wait until it is cold, ease the springs and pull or tear out the filament from the hotend.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are stuck you can use special drills to clean the nozzle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But to totally omit the issue you can have two hotends :) One for ABS and one for PLA ;) But I think you can manage cleaning if you apply what I've written above.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1211" LastEditorUserId="1211" LastEditDate="2016-05-20T14:22:57.233" LastActivityDate="2016-05-20T14:22:57.233" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1204" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="752" CreationDate="2016-05-19T23:37:43.733" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Misumi does provide a nice product but it's quite clear their business model is geared toward businesses and not the individual consumer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The 2020 extrusion seems to be a bear to get parts for, specifically T-nuts and braces.  Openbeam or Makerbeam might be better options and are readily available on Amazon for very decent prices.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1861" LastActivityDate="2016-05-19T23:37:43.733" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1205" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1429" CreationDate="2016-05-20T14:36:50.827" Score="9" ViewCount="2875" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a FlashForge CreatorX (MakerBot clone) that's been working fine for about 15 months. Int he past month, I started noticing &quot;thin&quot; layers in some of my ABS prints. I finally tracked the issue down to the extruder gear grinding the filament (after a while, enough filament had ground off that the gear teeth were filled with plastic). I cleaned the gear twice before giving up on ABS and switching to PLA. Everything seemed ok until the PLA started doing the same thing during an overnight print (thin layers on prints, audible skipping during filament feed). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Raising the temperature on the extruder seems to fix the problem, but I'm now extruding PLA at 242 °C, much higher than I used to need. I worry that continued printing at this temperature will increase wear on the thermistor and increase my chances of clogging PLA in the gear (an issue I've had twice before). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any common issues that cause this issue of filament not feeding properly? I've tried cleaning out the extruder head with wire and there don't seem to be any clogs…&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="102" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2018-09-16T12:27:14.783" LastActivityDate="2018-09-16T12:27:14.783" Title="Increased issues with filament grinding" Tags="|filament|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="1206" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1205" CreationDate="2016-05-20T15:59:45.197" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've encountered this on my Replicator Dual in the past. I was only using MakerBot branded ABS filament, so it wasn't a quality issue for me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I found was that the delrin plunger design that &quot;helps&quot; keep the filament in contact with the drive gear wasn't actually helping. So, I installed the newer assemblies that use a spinning bearing to contact with the filament.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Install (or keep installed) a spring loaded extruder assembly.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When feeding filament, loosen the spring and gradually tighten until the filament begins feeding on its own.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Try to stay close to the recommended print temperatures for the material. ABS is typically somewhere around 225C, but it depends on the supplier.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ensure your filament is stored in a dry place. This is way more of an issue for PLA, but it doesn't hurt to keep your material protected.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If it continues, perhaps swap out the drive gear itself. If you've dropped your motor or somehow a burr has developed on any of the teeth, naturally the burr will cut away the material. Gears are very temperamental and should be considered a consumable.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="98" LastActivityDate="2016-05-20T15:59:45.197" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1207" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-20T21:12:01.043" Score="6" ViewCount="10727" Body="&lt;p&gt;BuildTak is great because the printed plastic really sticks to it, it pretty much solved all the problems I had with prints detaching from the buildplate during printing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, it does sometimes cause the opposite problem of prints sticking too much and just not detaching from the build plate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm specifically not asking how to prevent this from happening - I'm asking what to do after I made a mistake and now have a print that isn't coming loose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="170" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-10-28T06:45:27.293" LastActivityDate="2018-11-06T07:18:00.270" Title="How to remove a PLA print stuck to a BuildTak sheet" Tags="|pla|post-processing|build-plate|warping|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="1208" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1207" CreationDate="2016-05-20T23:14:25.400" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have a heated bed, bring the bed up to a reasonable temperature, then do as best as you can to create rapid cooling. If you can remove the bed, heated or not, consider to place it in a freezer or refrigerator. Obviously, if the bed is heated, you'll want to handle the bed carefully and not place it on anything in the freezer that could be damaged while it cools.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unrealistically, pour liquid nitrogen over the bed. This may crack the bed and/or the model, as well as be all the more dangerous for unprotected users.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastActivityDate="2016-05-20T23:14:25.400" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1209" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1207" CreationDate="2016-05-21T00:24:38.637" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would do as fred_dot_u initially suggested, by increasing the bed temp (or using a hair dryer) to heat the BuildTak. Then, use a small fan to quickly cool the platform (or at least quicker than room temperature). An ice pack on the build plate/part could also work. This drastic fluctuation between the build platform (or BuildTak) and the part should make it easier to remove the part.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This works because the &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Temperature_coefficient&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;temperature coefficient&lt;/a&gt; is going to be different between the build plate, BuildTak, and the 3D printed part. So, each part rises and falls in temperature at different rates. When objects are heated and cooled, they expand and contract (respectively). Essentially, as each object expands and contracts at different rates, the objects begin to separate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A good example is if you've ever placed a jar into the fridge/freezer to make it easier to open. Typically the jar is glass and the lid is either plastic or metal. You'll notice that the lid is significantly easier to open, as opposed to its original state, because the lid and the jar physically react differently to temperature changes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, &lt;a href=&quot;https://all3dp.com/6-ways-remove-3d-prints-build-platform/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;here is a good article&lt;/a&gt; explaining a few different ways to remove a stuck part. (for prosperity sake, here's a quick list):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Brute force. Just try to yank on it until it pries off.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sharp objects. Try using a small blade to get under a corner of the part and wiggle the part a bit. Careful not to break the blade and send it flying.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Utilize temperature difference. I already explained this above.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use solvents. I didn't know this, but apparently there are solvents in the market that are targeted for 3D printing maintenance. Essentially its just an alcohol-based liquid...&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use floss. Another cool idea that's related to using a sharp object, using dental floss. Basically, any small object that you can remotely wiggle under the part and give you more leverage to yank on it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Invest in a flexible build platform. I've personally heard some mixed reviews on these (in present day of 2016). But material science is getting better every year, so who knows what will be available soon.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="98" LastEditorUserId="98" LastEditDate="2016-05-21T00:33:01.463" LastActivityDate="2016-05-21T00:33:01.463" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1210" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1202" CreationDate="2016-05-21T09:00:26.300" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Or you can use atomic nozle clianning!It woks fine for me :)&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=04T8zdgyh3E&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=04T8zdgyh3E&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="787" LastActivityDate="2016-05-21T09:00:26.300" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1211" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1212" CreationDate="2016-05-21T21:44:29.903" Score="2" ViewCount="674" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is the least expensive 3D printer available today? I am looking for something suitable for general use in a home office.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1826" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2017-02-14T10:43:28.743" LastActivityDate="2019-06-02T21:55:02.300" Title="What is the least expensive 3D printer?" Tags="|desktop-printer|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ClosedDate="2016-05-24T14:10:52.080" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1212" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1211" CreationDate="2016-05-21T23:29:24.983" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Depends on your definition of &quot;available&quot; and your definition of &quot;suitable for general use.&quot;&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The cheapest 3D printers are mostly Kickstarter promises that take a year or more to ship, if they ever do. For example, the Peachy 3D printer Kickstarter just imploded and failed. There have been many other failed low-cost 3D printer crowdfunding campaigns. Another low cost Kickstarter printer, the 101Hero, is ongoing now (May 2016), but most competent observers I've talked to don't believe it will succeed at delivering working printers to all backers at that price point. If they do deliver, it will be painfully low-cost components and the printer will not perform well or last long. &lt;strong&gt;Stay away from crowdfunding campaigns for your first printer.&lt;/strong&gt; At best, you get a beta product with lots of kinks to work out. At worst, you get nothing and lose your money. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For actual products you can purchase today, there's a wide spectrum of quality/cost tradeoffs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Under \$200 there's nothing credible. The Tiko (\$179) might deliver, but post-Kickstarter units are widely expected to cost more.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Around \$200-300 you get into low-quality Prusa i3 kits from China. These aren't a great value -- most people end up spending another few hundred dollars on upgrades to get them working reliably and with high quality.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Around \$300-400 you can get an &lt;em&gt;ok&lt;/em&gt; 3D printer, often with &quot;chipped&quot; proprietary filament so the vendor can make high profits on locked-in consumables. (&quot;Razors and blades&quot; model.) For example, the XYZPrinting Da Vinci Jr is \$350 but locks you into high-cost chipped filament. The Wanhao Duplicator i3 is currently a community favorite for value-for-money at \$399. The Printrbot Play is much higher quality/reliability but much smaller at the same price. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you get up around \$600, a big range of decent printers opens up. But this is no longer the &quot;least expensive&quot; option, so I won't get into it. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to tinker, the Duplicator i3 is a good choice. If you want a machine that just prints, the Play is a good choice. There are other printers and cheaper printers, but most of what you'll find below $400 is going to end up causing pain unless your goal is simply to tinker with printer troubleshooting and upgrades. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="298" LastEditorUserId="4808" LastEditDate="2019-06-02T21:55:02.300" LastActivityDate="2019-06-02T21:55:02.300" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="1213" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1202" CreationDate="2016-05-22T07:29:45.670" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;As Anton mentions, cleaning your nozzle is commonly done using a &lt;strong&gt;cold pull&lt;/strong&gt; (or &lt;strong&gt;atomic pull&lt;/strong&gt;). This process involves pulling out your filament from the nozzle while it is still semi-hot. (PLA, for instance will often be pulled at 80-90 celsius, which is the temperature at which it will slowly start to soften.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason why this works is because the filament will stick better to itself when semi-hot, than to the nozzle, and pulling it out in this manner will most likely bring any residue along with it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This question &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/240/115&quot;&gt;debates&lt;/a&gt; it further, while the video Anton posted demonstrates it well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="115" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T13:00:58.447" LastActivityDate="2016-05-23T06:49:08.643" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1215" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-22T21:08:56.350" Score="6" ViewCount="2655" Body="&lt;p&gt;For last two weeks I have been struggling with flow rate adjustments. I'm using an UM2, colorFabb XT 1.75mm and Slic3r. Before printing a test cube I made flow rate adjustments using the &quot;Perimeter test&quot; (printed a hallow cube with 1 layer thin perimeter line). I then compared the desired value of the perimeter's width with the value from the g-code and adjusted the flow rate. I repeated this procedure until I got exactly the thickness I needed. After that, I printed a 15x15x15 mm cube and observed under extrusion on top layer. Also, the dimensions of the cube in the x-y plane were smaller than expected (0.4mm shorter than they should be). I have done this a few times now, and still get the same result. :/ Furthermore, I was unable to adjust width by dividing the desired value of the width of the perimeter by a real value, I got slightly smaller extrusion multiplier (One I got by division is 0.9 , but 9.5 relates to desired width). Do you have some suggestion guys?&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pcfx5.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pcfx5.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Cubes I have got with corrected extrusion multiplier&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Update:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'll try to explain the calibration method I have used. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I have made in Solidwork 15x15x15 mm cube. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The cube was imported into Slic3r, where I have set the infill to 0% and number of sides shells equal to 1 and number of top and bottom shells equal to 0 (It gave me one layer thin wall in shape of cube). &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I printed it out and measured the width using caliper and compared with the perimeter's width from g-code. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I have got something about 0.7, but the extrusion width in g-code is 0.65, so I changed extrusion multiplier by 0.65/0.7 = 0.93 (what is not actually true, because I got correct value on 0.95 only) &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I have repeated the procedure for many times, and always got wrong dimensions and under extrusion.&#xA;There is the video about method I just have explained: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cnjE5udkNEA&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cnjE5udkNEA&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="787" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2022-10-05T11:27:16.633" LastActivityDate="2022-10-05T11:27:16.633" Title="Slic3r under extrusion" Tags="|extrusion|calibration|slic3r|colorfabb-xt|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1216" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1215" CreationDate="2016-05-23T05:36:09.200" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It looks like you overtune it. I think it's because top layer of hollow object doesn't have any support (which is obvious) but because of that the filament is not oblate that's why it looks like underextruded.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you really need hollow object then set number of top layers to 3..5 then check if it helps. I know it's not really what you expect but IMO this could help here. (I usually set 2 bottom layers and 3 top and it's quite enought.) You can also experiment with speed of top leyer. I would say the faster the better in this issue as the the first top layer should be as flat as possible then next top layer will have better support. And of course cooling should be set to max (as for the bridges).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is an explanation why you get underextrusion. &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RNxqc.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RNxqc.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A is wall (perimeter) B is (ceiling) top layer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Empty outlines are what you expect but filled shapes are what you really get. Differences are of course slightly smaller but it's to clearly explain the issue&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please also check Printer Settings &gt; Advanced &gt; Top solid infill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1211" LastEditorUserId="1211" LastEditDate="2016-05-23T05:50:30.693" LastActivityDate="2016-05-23T05:50:30.693" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1217" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-23T07:21:07.830" Score="3" ViewCount="1545" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am working on a DLP based 3D printer. I already sliced my STL file to multiple layers. Each layer is saved as a SVG file. Because its an SVG file, I can always convert each layer to PNG/JPG file if desired. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a TI DLP Lightcrafter 4500 module connected to my laptop using the HDMI. The DLP shows up as a second monitor on my laptop. I am using LabVIEW to control all components of the printer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Question 1: How I can programmatically display my desired image file on the DLP projector. I would prefer to use Python or LabVIEW to display my desired image onto the entire screen of the DLP. Is there any way to achieve this on Windows? I also have the option of using Raspberry Pi + LabVIEW using LINX (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.labviewmakerhub.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.labviewmakerhub.com/&lt;/a&gt;). I looked at nanoDLP (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.nanodlp.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.nanodlp.com/&lt;/a&gt;), which is a control software for DLP based 3D printers. However, I can't figure out how they manage to display the desired images to the DLP. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Question 2: Is it possible to display a SVG file to the DLP instead of PNG/JPG/BMP? If not, how do I know which resolution to use when converting SVG to PNG/JPG/BMP? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1401" LastEditorUserId="1401" LastEditDate="2016-05-23T17:24:47.377" LastActivityDate="2016-11-26T22:20:55.767" Title="How to display images on DLP using HDMI for 3D printing?" Tags="|dlp|python|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1218" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-24T00:00:17.293" Score="2" ViewCount="593" Body="&lt;p&gt;Quick Question.&#xA;My Printer is the CTC clone of the Makerbot Replicator Dual.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For my past few prints after &lt;code&gt;nth&lt;/code&gt; layer the print just starts to go stringy. Here is an example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/77OYQ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/77OYQ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Stringy Print&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am currently using MakerWare with the following settings&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;{&#xA;   &quot;_attached_extruders&quot; : [ &quot;mk8&quot;, &quot;mk8&quot; ],&#xA;   &quot;_bot&quot; : &quot;replicatordual&quot;,&#xA;   &quot;_extruders&quot; : [ 0 ],&#xA;   &quot;_materials&quot; : [ &quot;pla&quot;, &quot;pla&quot; ],&#xA;   &quot;adjacentFillLeakyConnections&quot; : false,&#xA;   &quot;adjacentFillLeakyDistanceRatio&quot; : 0,&#xA;   &quot;anchorExtrusionAmount&quot; : 5.0,&#xA;   &quot;anchorExtrusionSpeed&quot; : 2.0,&#xA;   &quot;anchorWidth&quot; : 2.0,&#xA;   &quot;backlashEpsilon&quot; : 0.050,&#xA;   &quot;backlashFeedback&quot; : 0.90,&#xA;   &quot;backlashX&quot; : 0.0,&#xA;   &quot;backlashY&quot; : 0.090,&#xA;   &quot;bedZOffset&quot; : 0.0,&#xA;   &quot;bridgeAnchorMinimumLength&quot; : 0.80,&#xA;   &quot;bridgeAnchorWidth&quot; : 0.80,&#xA;   &quot;bridgeMaximumLength&quot; : 80.0,&#xA;   &quot;bridgeSpacingMultiplier&quot; : 1.0,&#xA;   &quot;coarseness&quot; : 9.999999747378752e-005,&#xA;   &quot;commentClose&quot; : &quot;&quot;,&#xA;   &quot;commentOpen&quot; : &quot;;&quot;,&#xA;   &quot;computeVolumeLike2_1_0&quot; : false,&#xA;   &quot;defaultExtruder&quot; : 0,&#xA;   &quot;defaultRaftMaterial&quot; : 0,&#xA;   &quot;defaultSupportMaterial&quot; : 0,&#xA;   &quot;description&quot; : &quot;&quot;,&#xA;   &quot;doAnchor&quot; : true,&#xA;   &quot;doBacklashCompensation&quot; : false,&#xA;   &quot;doBreakawaySupport&quot; : false,&#xA;   &quot;doBridging&quot; : true,&#xA;   &quot;doDynamicSpeed&quot; : false,&#xA;   &quot;doDynamicSpeedGradually&quot; : true,&#xA;   &quot;doDynamicSpeedInteriorShells&quot; : false,&#xA;   &quot;doDynamicSpeedOutermostShell&quot; : true,&#xA;   &quot;doExponentialDeceleration&quot; : false,&#xA;   &quot;doExternalSpurs&quot; : true,&#xA;   &quot;doFixedLayerStart&quot; : false,&#xA;   &quot;doFixedShellStart&quot; : true,&#xA;   &quot;doInfills&quot; : true,&#xA;   &quot;doInsets&quot; : true,&#xA;   &quot;doInternalSpurs&quot; : false,&#xA;   &quot;doMixedRaft&quot; : true,&#xA;   &quot;doMixedSupport&quot; : true,&#xA;   &quot;doOutlines&quot; : true,&#xA;   &quot;doPrintLayerMessages&quot; : false,&#xA;   &quot;doPrintProgress&quot; : true,&#xA;   &quot;doPurgeWall&quot; : false,&#xA;   &quot;doRaft&quot; : false,&#xA;   &quot;doSplitLongMoves&quot; : true,&#xA;   &quot;doSupport&quot; : false,&#xA;   &quot;doSupportUnderBridges&quot; : false,&#xA;   &quot;endGcode&quot; : &quot;&quot;,&#xA;   &quot;exponentialDecelerationMinSpeed&quot; : 0.0,&#xA;   &quot;extruderProfiles&quot; : [&#xA;      {&#xA;         &quot;bridgesExtrusionProfile&quot; : &quot;bridges&quot;,&#xA;         &quot;feedDiameter&quot; : 1.769999980926514,&#xA;         &quot;feedstockMultiplier&quot; : 0.9300000000000001,&#xA;         &quot;firstLayerExtrusionProfile&quot; : &quot;firstLayer&quot;,&#xA;         &quot;firstLayerRaftExtrusionProfile&quot; : &quot;firstLayerRaft&quot;,&#xA;         &quot;floorSurfaceFillsExtrusionProfile&quot; : &quot;floorSurfaceFills&quot;,&#xA;         &quot;infillsExtrusionProfile&quot; : &quot;infill&quot;,&#xA;         &quot;insetsExtrusionProfile&quot; : &quot;insets&quot;,&#xA;         &quot;layerHeight&quot; : 0.20,&#xA;         &quot;maxSparseFillThickness&quot; : 0.10,&#xA;         &quot;nozzleDiameter&quot; : 0.40,&#xA;         &quot;outlinesExtrusionProfile&quot; : &quot;outlines&quot;,&#xA;         &quot;raftBaseExtrusionProfile&quot; : &quot;raftBase&quot;,&#xA;         &quot;raftExtrusionProfile&quot; : &quot;raft&quot;,&#xA;         &quot;restartExtraDistance&quot; : 0.0,&#xA;         &quot;restartExtraDistance2&quot; : 0,&#xA;         &quot;restartExtraRate&quot; : 25.0,&#xA;         &quot;restartExtraRate2&quot; : -1,&#xA;         &quot;restartRate&quot; : 25.0,&#xA;         &quot;restartRate2&quot; : 25,&#xA;         &quot;retractDistance&quot; : 1.299999952316284,&#xA;         &quot;retractDistance2&quot; : 0,&#xA;         &quot;retractRate&quot; : 25.0,&#xA;         &quot;retractRate2&quot; : 50,&#xA;         &quot;roofSurfaceFillsExtrusionProfile&quot; : &quot;roofSurfaceFills&quot;,&#xA;         &quot;sparseRoofSurfaceFillsExtrusionProfile&quot; : &quot;sparseRoofSurfaceFills&quot;,&#xA;         &quot;toolchangeRestartDistance&quot; : 18.50,&#xA;         &quot;toolchangeRestartRate&quot; : 6.0,&#xA;         &quot;toolchangeRetractDistance&quot; : 19.0,&#xA;         &quot;toolchangeRetractRate&quot; : 6.0&#xA;      },&#xA;      {&#xA;         &quot;bridgesExtrusionProfile&quot; : &quot;bridges&quot;,&#xA;         &quot;feedDiameter&quot; : 1.769999980926514,&#xA;         &quot;feedstockMultiplier&quot; : 0.9300000000000001,&#xA;         &quot;firstLayerExtrusionProfile&quot; : &quot;firstLayer&quot;,&#xA;         &quot;firstLayerRaftExtrusionProfile&quot; : &quot;firstLayerRaft&quot;,&#xA;         &quot;floorSurfaceFillsExtrusionProfile&quot; : &quot;floorSurfaceFills&quot;,&#xA;         &quot;infillsExtrusionProfile&quot; : &quot;infill&quot;,&#xA;         &quot;insetsExtrusionProfile&quot; : &quot;insets&quot;,&#xA;         &quot;layerHeight&quot; : 0.20,&#xA;         &quot;maxSparseFillThickness&quot; : 0.10,&#xA;         &quot;nozzleDiameter&quot; : 0.40,&#xA;         &quot;outlinesExtrusionProfile&quot; : &quot;outlines&quot;,&#xA;         &quot;raftBaseExtrusionProfile&quot; : &quot;raftBase&quot;,&#xA;         &quot;raftExtrusionProfile&quot; : &quot;raft&quot;,&#xA;         &quot;restartExtraDistance&quot; : 0.0,&#xA;         &quot;restartExtraDistance2&quot; : 0,&#xA;         &quot;restartExtraRate&quot; : 25.0,&#xA;         &quot;restartExtraRate2&quot; : -1,&#xA;         &quot;restartRate&quot; : 25.0,&#xA;         &quot;restartRate2&quot; : 25,&#xA;         &quot;retractDistance&quot; : 1.299999952316284,&#xA;         &quot;retractDistance2&quot; : 0,&#xA;         &quot;retractRate&quot; : 25.0,&#xA;         &quot;retractRate2&quot; : 50,&#xA;         &quot;roofSurfaceFillsExtrusionProfile&quot; : &quot;roofSurfaceFills&quot;,&#xA;         &quot;sparseRoofSurfaceFillsExtrusionProfile&quot; : &quot;sparseRoofSurfaceFills&quot;,&#xA;         &quot;toolchangeRestartDistance&quot; : 18.50,&#xA;         &quot;toolchangeRestartRate&quot; : 6.0,&#xA;         &quot;toolchangeRetractDistance&quot; : 19.0,&#xA;         &quot;toolchangeRetractRate&quot; : 6.0&#xA;      }&#xA;   ],&#xA;   &quot;extruderTemp0&quot; : 208,&#xA;   &quot;extruderTemp1&quot; : 200,&#xA;   &quot;extrusionProfiles&quot; : {&#xA;      &quot;bridges&quot; : {&#xA;         &quot;fanSpeed&quot; : 0.50,&#xA;         &quot;feedrate&quot; : 40.0&#xA;      },&#xA;      &quot;firstLayer&quot; : {&#xA;         &quot;fanSpeed&quot; : 0.50,&#xA;         &quot;feedrate&quot; : 5.0&#xA;      },&#xA;      &quot;firstLayerRaft&quot; : {&#xA;         &quot;fanSpeed&quot; : 0.50,&#xA;         &quot;feedrate&quot; : 50.0&#xA;      },&#xA;      &quot;floorSurfaceFills&quot; : {&#xA;         &quot;fanSpeed&quot; : 0.50,&#xA;         &quot;feedrate&quot; : 90.0&#xA;      },&#xA;      &quot;infill&quot; : {&#xA;         &quot;fanSpeed&quot; : 0.50,&#xA;         &quot;feedrate&quot; : 90.0&#xA;      },&#xA;      &quot;insets&quot; : {&#xA;         &quot;fanSpeed&quot; : 0.50,&#xA;         &quot;feedrate&quot; : 90.0&#xA;      },&#xA;      &quot;outlines&quot; : {&#xA;         &quot;fanSpeed&quot; : 0.50,&#xA;         &quot;feedrate&quot; : 40.0&#xA;      },&#xA;      &quot;raft&quot; : {&#xA;         &quot;fanSpeed&quot; : 0.50,&#xA;         &quot;feedrate&quot; : 90.0&#xA;      },&#xA;      &quot;raftBase&quot; : {&#xA;         &quot;fanSpeed&quot; : 0.50,&#xA;         &quot;feedrate&quot; : 10.0&#xA;      },&#xA;      &quot;roofSurfaceFills&quot; : {&#xA;         &quot;fanSpeed&quot; : 0.50,&#xA;         &quot;feedrate&quot; : 90.0&#xA;      },&#xA;      &quot;sparseRoofSurfaceFills&quot; : {&#xA;         &quot;fanSpeed&quot; : 0.50,&#xA;         &quot;feedrate&quot; : 90.0&#xA;      }&#xA;   },&#xA;   &quot;fixedLayerStartX&quot; : 0.0,&#xA;   &quot;fixedLayerStartY&quot; : 0.0,&#xA;   &quot;fixedShellStartDirection&quot; : 215.0,&#xA;   &quot;floorSolidThickness&quot; : 0,&#xA;   &quot;floorSurfaceThickness&quot; : 0,&#xA;   &quot;floorThickness&quot; : 2.0,&#xA;   &quot;gridSpacingMultiplier&quot; : 0.990,&#xA;   &quot;infillDensity&quot; : 0.05000000074505806,&#xA;   &quot;infillOrientationInterval&quot; : 90,&#xA;   &quot;infillOrientationOffset&quot; : 0,&#xA;   &quot;infillOrientationRange&quot; : 90,&#xA;   &quot;infillShellSpacingMultiplier&quot; : 0.70,&#xA;   &quot;insetDistanceMultiplier&quot; : 1.0,&#xA;   &quot;jsonToolpathOutput&quot; : false,&#xA;   &quot;layerHeight&quot; : 0.250,&#xA;   &quot;leakyConnectionsAdjacentDistance&quot; : 0.0,&#xA;   &quot;maxConnectionLength&quot; : 10.0,&#xA;   &quot;maxSparseFillThickness&quot; : 0.250,&#xA;   &quot;maxSpurWidth&quot; : 0.50,&#xA;   &quot;minLayerDuration&quot; : 5.0,&#xA;   &quot;minLayerHeight&quot; : 0.010,&#xA;   &quot;minRaftBaseGap&quot; : 0.0,&#xA;   &quot;minSpeedMultiplier&quot; : 0.30,&#xA;   &quot;minSpurLength&quot; : 0.340,&#xA;   &quot;minSpurWidth&quot; : 0.120,&#xA;   &quot;minThickInfillImprovement&quot; : 1.0,&#xA;   &quot;modelFillProfiles&quot; : {},&#xA;   &quot;numberOfShells&quot; : 3,&#xA;   &quot;platformTemp&quot; : 70,&#xA;   &quot;purgeBucketSide&quot; : 4.0,&#xA;   &quot;purgeWallBaseFilamentWidth&quot; : 2.0,&#xA;   &quot;purgeWallBasePatternLength&quot; : 10.0,&#xA;   &quot;purgeWallBasePatternWidth&quot; : 8.0,&#xA;   &quot;purgeWallModelOffset&quot; : 2.0,&#xA;   &quot;purgeWallPatternWidth&quot; : 2.0,&#xA;   &quot;purgeWallSpacing&quot; : 1.0,&#xA;   &quot;purgeWallWidth&quot; : 0.50,&#xA;   &quot;purgeWallXLength&quot; : 30.0,&#xA;   &quot;raftAligned&quot; : true,&#xA;   &quot;raftBaseAngle&quot; : 0.0,&#xA;   &quot;raftBaseDensity&quot; : 0.6999999880790710,&#xA;   &quot;raftBaseLayers&quot; : 1,&#xA;   &quot;raftBaseRunGapRatio&quot; : 0.8000000119209290,&#xA;   &quot;raftBaseRunLength&quot; : 15.0,&#xA;   &quot;raftBaseThickness&quot; : 0.3000000119209290,&#xA;   &quot;raftBaseWidth&quot; : 2.50,&#xA;   &quot;raftExtraOffset&quot; : 0.0,&#xA;   &quot;raftFillProfiles&quot; : {},&#xA;   &quot;raftInterfaceAngle&quot; : 45.0,&#xA;   &quot;raftInterfaceDensity&quot; : 0.3000000119209290,&#xA;   &quot;raftInterfaceLayers&quot; : 2,&#xA;   &quot;raftInterfaceThickness&quot; : 0.2700000107288361,&#xA;   &quot;raftInterfaceWidth&quot; : 0.4000000059604645,&#xA;   &quot;raftModelSpacing&quot; : 0.2199999988079071,&#xA;   &quot;raftOutset&quot; : 4.0,&#xA;   &quot;raftSurfaceAngle&quot; : 0.0,&#xA;   &quot;raftSurfaceLayers&quot; : 3,&#xA;   &quot;raftSurfaceShellSpacingMultiplier&quot; : 0.70,&#xA;   &quot;raftSurfaceShells&quot; : 2,&#xA;   &quot;raftSurfaceThickness&quot; : 0.2700000107288361,&#xA;   &quot;roofAnchorMargin&quot; : 0.40,&#xA;   &quot;roofSolidThickness&quot; : 0,&#xA;   &quot;roofSurfaceThickness&quot; : 0,&#xA;   &quot;roofThickness&quot; : 2.0,&#xA;   &quot;shellsLeakyConnections&quot; : false,&#xA;   &quot;solidFillOrientationInterval&quot; : 90,&#xA;   &quot;solidFillOrientationOffset&quot; : -45,&#xA;   &quot;solidFillOrientationRange&quot; : 90,&#xA;   &quot;sparseInfillPattern&quot; : &quot;hexagonal&quot;,&#xA;   &quot;splitMinimumDistance&quot; : 0.40,&#xA;   &quot;spurOverlap&quot; : 0.0010,&#xA;   &quot;startGcode&quot; : &quot;&quot;,&#xA;   &quot;startPosition&quot; : {&#xA;      &quot;x&quot; : -112,&#xA;      &quot;y&quot; : -73,&#xA;      &quot;z&quot; : 0&#xA;   },&#xA;   &quot;supportAligned&quot; : true,&#xA;   &quot;supportAngle&quot; : 68.0,&#xA;   &quot;supportDensity&quot; : 0.2000000029802322,&#xA;   &quot;supportExcessive&quot; : false,&#xA;   &quot;supportExtraDistance&quot; : 0.50,&#xA;   &quot;supportFillProfiles&quot; : {},&#xA;   &quot;supportLayerHeight&quot; : 0.250,&#xA;   &quot;supportLeakyConnections&quot; : true,&#xA;   &quot;supportModelSpacing&quot; : 0.4000000059604645,&#xA;   &quot;supportRoofModelSpacing&quot; : 0.4000000059604645,&#xA;   &quot;thickLayerThreshold&quot; : 0,&#xA;   &quot;thickLayerVolumeMultiplier&quot; : 1,&#xA;   &quot;travelSpeedXY&quot; : 150.0,&#xA;   &quot;travelSpeedZ&quot; : 23.0,&#xA;   &quot;version&quot; : &quot;3.9.3&quot;&#xA;}&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If anybody has any ideas please let me know.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank You&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1899" LastActivityDate="2016-05-25T06:11:12.000" Title="3D Printer Stringing after nth layer" Tags="|makerbot|pla|replicator-dual|makerware|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1219" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1218" CreationDate="2016-05-24T07:21:46.097" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't know what was the object like in your plans but it looks like your extruder stopped pushing filament well. I had similar effect when I used extensive retraction with low quality filament. In fact filament was to soft and when it was pressed to hobbed pulley/bolt it became flatened and then stopped flowing. So if your case is similar you could check the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;spring tenssion&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;knurls&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;filament diameter&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's also worth to check if hobbed pulley is screwed tight on motor shaft.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;[edit]&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It could be also caused by too fast retraction if knurls are not sharp enough they can slide on or scrap filament.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you notice that again, stop printing proces, lose springs and pull out filament from hotend and inspect its shape.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1211" LastEditorUserId="1211" LastEditDate="2016-05-25T06:11:12.000" LastActivityDate="2016-05-25T06:11:12.000" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1220" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1211" CreationDate="2016-05-24T10:52:26.737" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can get an A8 3D printer on Gearbest at 149$, It's a version of an i3, with easy assemble and pre configured, and it have a suprising good quality.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I thinks is the best price/quality that you can find at the moment. It prints with a good quality by default and you can upgrade it if you need it without spending hundreds of dollars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.gearbest.com/3d-printers-3d-printer-kits/pp_337314.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.gearbest.com/3d-printers-3d-printer-kits/pp_337314.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1902" LastActivityDate="2016-05-24T10:52:26.737" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1221" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1150" CreationDate="2016-05-24T13:16:55.530" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;I did find only one 3d scanner which uses structured light. There is many projects using a laser diode. And these systems are completely opensource.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Structured Light&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Structured Light 3D Scanning by kylemcdonald&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.instructables.com/id/Structured-Light-3D-Scanning/?ALLSTEPS&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.instructables.com/id/Structured-Light-3D-Scanning/?ALLSTEPS&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vZv6S.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vZv6S.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Laser diode&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Sardauscan&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.instructables.com/id/Build-a-30-laser/?ALLSTEPS&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.instructables.com/id/Build-a-30-laser/?ALLSTEPS&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/Sardau/Sardauscan&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://github.com/Sardau/Sardauscan&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:702470&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:702470&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sB4pN.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sB4pN.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;ATLAS 3D Scanner&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.freelss.org&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.freelss.org&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1280901&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1280901&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/1545315380/atlas-3d-the-3d-scanner-you-print-and-build-yourse/posts/1475722&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/1545315380/atlas-3d-the-3d-scanner-you-print-and-build-yourse/posts/1475722&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ENwwb.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ENwwb.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Ciclop&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://diwo.bq.com/en/tag/ciclop/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://diwo.bq.com/en/tag/ciclop/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/bqlabs/ciclop&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://github.com/bqlabs/ciclop&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Goheb.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Goheb.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;3D(ollar) Scanner&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://hackaday.io/project/2021-3dollar-scanner&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://hackaday.io/project/2021-3dollar-scanner&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.instructables.com/id/Lets-cook-3D-scanner-based-on-Arduino-and-Proces/?ALLSTEPS&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.instructables.com/id/Lets-cook-3D-scanner-based-on-Arduino-and-Proces/?ALLSTEPS&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fFKEj.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fFKEj.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;&quot;Super Make Something&quot; Tutorial On How To Build a Simple 3D Scanner&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-qeD2__yK4c&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-qeD2__yK4c&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1413891&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1413891&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://diy3dprinting.blogspot.de/2016/04/super-make-something-tutorial-on-how-to.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://diy3dprinting.blogspot.de/2016/04/super-make-something-tutorial-on-how-to.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SfQNb.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SfQNb.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Different method&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;$15 3D scanner consists of a tub of milk and a smartphone&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Interesting idea of using milk and phone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.instructables.com/id/GotMesh-the-Most-Cheap-and-Simplistic-3D-Scanner/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.instructables.com/id/GotMesh-the-Most-Cheap-and-Simplistic-3D-Scanner/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.3ders.org/articles/20160423-this-3d-scanner-consists-of-a-tub-of-milk-and-a-smartphone.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.3ders.org/articles/20160423-this-3d-scanner-consists-of-a-tub-of-milk-and-a-smartphone.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XDoCO.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XDoCO.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="75" LastEditorUserId="75" LastEditDate="2016-05-25T15:20:04.743" LastActivityDate="2016-05-25T15:20:04.743" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1222" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1085" CreationDate="2016-05-24T14:17:50.207" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The distance between heat block and heat sink is too big (3/4 inch, almost 2 cm). In this area your filament is some half melt state, not cooled as in heat sink part, not melted as in heat block part. You should make as small as possible, less then 0.5 cm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Great source of information about hot ends is video created by Thomas Sanladerer: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Kf907duwAAE&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Build your own 3D Printer: Which hotend to pick!&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="75" LastActivityDate="2016-05-24T14:17:50.207" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1223" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1193" CreationDate="2016-05-24T15:24:16.407" Score="3" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Scan spacing&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Within each of the ‘islands’, simple alternating scan vectors are used with the spacing between these vectors defined as the ‘scan spacing’ and the speed with which the laser spot moves across the surface defined as the ‘scan speed’. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qqEMo.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qqEMo.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Source&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S092583881401528X&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;The influence of the laser scan strategy on grain structure and cracking behaviour in SLM powder-bed fabricated nickel superalloy&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;chapter: 2.2. SLM processing and laser scan strategy&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Hatch distance&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The stripe pattern is a band defined by the scan vector width (ie stripe width), the hatching space between adjacent tracks and the scan direction as well as the overlap with the neighbouring stripes&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3prQu.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3prQu.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bZqq3.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bZqq3.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Source &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.insidemetaladditivemanufacturing.com/blog/-scanning-patterns-in-slm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Scanning patterns in SLM&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Notes&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The computer controlled laser scans the surface of the bed to selectively melt the current two-dimensional slice of the CAD file.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The laser scanning remelts some of the previously built layer to ensure good bonding between layers and a fully dense component overall.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cool printing image&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Oxsbx.gif&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Oxsbx.gif&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="75" LastActivityDate="2016-05-24T15:24:16.407" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1224" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1202" CreationDate="2016-05-24T20:33:00.407" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've found a blow torch to work pretty well for clogged nozzles. Note: If your hotend use PTFE tubing internally DONT DO THIS or it may melt and ruin the nozzle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="186" LastActivityDate="2016-05-24T20:33:00.407" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1225" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-25T02:43:42.500" Score="7" ViewCount="582" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm running Repetier Host v1.6.1 with Repetier Firmware v0.92.9.  My computer is running Windows 7 Pro SP1, 64-bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I set a print going via USB then switch to another user (note: I do not log out), then the pinter's display shows that the command buffer drops from 16 to 0 until it stops printing altogether.  If I switch back to the user that is running Repetier Host then the buffer fills up again and the print job resumes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Before I updated Repetier Host this didn't happen, I could leave it running while I switched users and the job would run just fine.  I'm not sure why this behaviour has changed, but is there any way to get it to run properly under a background user?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1907" LastEditorUserId="98" LastEditDate="2016-06-09T01:52:42.157" LastActivityDate="2017-08-27T17:25:43.187" Title="Repetier Host stops sending commands to printer when switching Windows user" Tags="|software|repetier|repetier-host|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1226" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1225" CreationDate="2016-05-25T09:20:33.493" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I believe what happens here is that Windows suspends the process running the print job, either due to the program not being in focus, because you switch user, or both.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could try to &lt;em&gt;increase the priority of the print process in task manager&lt;/em&gt;, and see if that helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;In Windows 7:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Open Task Manager&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In the &lt;em&gt;Applications&lt;/em&gt; tab, right click the application, and select &lt;em&gt;Go To Process&lt;/em&gt;, which will take you to its background process in the &lt;em&gt;Process&lt;/em&gt; tab.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Right click the process, go to &lt;em&gt;Set Priority&lt;/em&gt; and select some priority higher than the current level.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;In Windows 10:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Open Task Manager&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In the &lt;em&gt;Processes&lt;/em&gt; tab, right click the application, and select &lt;em&gt;Go To Details&lt;/em&gt;, which will take you to its background process in the &lt;em&gt;Details&lt;/em&gt; tab.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Right click the process, go to &lt;em&gt;Set Priority&lt;/em&gt; and select some priority higher than the current level.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;PS: &lt;a href=&quot;https://stackoverflow.com/questions/1663993/what-is-the-realtime-process-priority-setting-for&quot;&gt;Avoid setting the priority to Realtime&lt;/a&gt;, as that effectively will give the process full control of your computer's resources, which could kneel your computer if the program is poorly written.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="115" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-05-23T12:41:54.910" LastActivityDate="2016-05-25T09:20:33.493" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1227" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1150" CreationDate="2016-05-26T07:38:43.673" Score="-3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.makeralot.com/ciclop-3d-scanner-diy-kit-p196/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;BQ Ciclop 3D Scanner&quot;&gt;BQ Ciclop 3D Scanner&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Scan Volume: Bigger than 5 cm x 5 cm and smaller than 20 cm x 20 cm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Scanning Precision: 0.5 mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All the necessary parts for Ciclop are included in this DIY kit, which comes unassembled.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This Ciclop 3D Scanner Parts List:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 x Plastic parts( 1 set with 11 pcs)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 x Arduino Uno R3 with USB cable&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 x ZUM Scan Shield&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 x A4988 Stepper Driver&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 x C270 HD camera&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 x Nema17 stepper motor&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2 x Laser&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 x Power supply adapter&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 x 16014 ball bearing&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 x M8 threaded rod (9 pcs)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2 x Acrylic panel&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 x 8mm spiral wrapping band&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 x Set of screw and nuts&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1924" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2021-02-17T21:34:12.330" LastActivityDate="2021-02-17T21:34:12.330" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="1229" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-27T06:57:33.030" Score="7" ViewCount="1000" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm thinking of trying my hand at fabricating microfluidic devices. I'll be using a filament based on PETG (Zortrax's Z-glass filament, which is translucent and resistant to acids and bases). For my plan to work, I'll need to find a good way to bond the PETG model onto a glass microscope slide.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the best technique for doing this? Should I use epoxy resin or some other adhesive, or can I solvent bond it? I've heard stories about PETG permanently bonding to a glass print bed, so it seems plausible that solvent bonding might work. Will it work, and if so, what solvent should I use?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="612" LastActivityDate="2019-11-19T16:24:08.120" Title="Bonding PETG to glass" Tags="|material|post-processing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1230" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1150" CreationDate="2016-05-27T12:58:04.610" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can use a Kinect sensor for Xbox 360 OR Kinect sensor for Xbox One. That sensor allows you to get a true 3D surface with its SDK. You can connect these devices directly to your PC using USB (I have one).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even the Xbox One model, in its SDK, has an example that allows you export your captured mesh as STL files.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1231" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2017-05-30T17:27:12.163" LastActivityDate="2017-05-30T17:27:12.163" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1232" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1229" CreationDate="2016-05-27T23:08:31.090" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The solvents that can dissolve PET are pretty nasty -- I wouldn't personally handle any of them outside a lab fume hood. If you have that, a 50/50 mix of MEK and methylene chloride should work. (Increase MEK ratio if you want faster adhesion / less working time, and vice versa.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First thing I would try is printing directly onto the (super clean) glass. Print the first layer at high temp to try to get a good bond. Then over-extrude to get watertight perimeters. It MIGHT be better to print on a cold bed to keep the PET from popping off when the glass cools, but you would need to do some experimenting. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could also try heating the slide to the melting temp of PET on a hot plate and then attaching the printed part. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Failing that, a transparent superglue could be a good approach. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="298" LastEditorUserId="298" LastEditDate="2016-05-27T23:15:39.583" LastActivityDate="2016-05-27T23:15:39.583" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1234" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1237" CreationDate="2016-05-29T10:44:52.647" Score="11" ViewCount="18544" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am attempting to construct model tank tracks with accompanying wheels and sprockets. All parts will be printed in PLA. The tracks will be driven by electric motors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What would be a suitable grease for this project to minimize friction without damaging the plastics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="110" LastEditorUserId="1211" LastEditDate="2016-06-16T04:52:07.973" LastActivityDate="2021-05-26T12:17:44.193" Title="Grease for PLA sprocket" Tags="|pla|3d-models|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1235" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1234" CreationDate="2016-05-29T11:54:16.150" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;You may find a solution with the common lubricant containing PTFE, often called Super Lube. It is described in manufacturer's literature as non-reactive with virtually everything. It is available at a reasonable price as plumber's grease (look for either Teflon or PTFE in the ingredients) in various quantity containers. When used on metal, you may get black residue. With plastic, some color of the plastic will appear as the surfaces wear. It has good sticking power too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastActivityDate="2016-05-29T11:54:16.150" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1236" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1225" CreationDate="2016-05-29T15:37:17.320" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Maybe you've changed your power settings and that's why your USB port stops working when switching user (for power conservation). I know you've said it was working before Reptier update but maybe it's worth to check.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;So go to Start &gt; Control Panel &gt; Power Options&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Find your (selected) power plan and choose Change plan settings &gt; Change advanced power settings&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then check USB Settings &gt; USB selective suspend settings&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;to be sure - set both to &lt;strong&gt;Disable&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol start=&quot;2&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Another place to check is My Computer &gt; Manage &gt; Device Manager &gt; Universal Serial Bus controllers&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And here there are at least 2 items to check&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Generic USB Hub&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;USB Root Hub&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;both have tab Power Management and checkbox Allow computer to turn off this device to save power - &lt;strong&gt;uncheck&lt;/strong&gt; them&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know it doesn't sound very wise but who knows... :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1211" LastEditorUserId="1211" LastEditDate="2016-05-30T04:52:08.623" LastActivityDate="2016-05-30T04:52:08.623" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1237" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1234" CreationDate="2016-05-29T16:10:51.253" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use cosmetic vaseline - &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Petroleum_jelly&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;petroleum jelly&lt;/a&gt;. Usually it is white to transparent and odorless. It's cheap and available in all drugstores and cosmetics stores.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As suggested by Tom van der Zanden I'm adding additional info about interactions of vaseline and plastics.&#xA;I've found many web sites which claim that vaseline can damage plastics but none of them really proved that statement. There is nothing about it neither on producers sites nor wikipedia or any other believable sources I've found. So according to it and my practice I'm pretty sure that vaseline won't damage popular plastics (including common filaments).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only information I've found is that vaseline can damage natural rubber but I cannot confirm that on my own.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course it might not be true for some materials so be careful and check the interactions first on invisible side or on refuses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1211" LastEditorUserId="1211" LastEditDate="2016-05-31T17:27:44.527" LastActivityDate="2016-05-31T17:27:44.527" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1238" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1234" CreationDate="2016-05-30T09:27:32.763" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been using &lt;em&gt;sewing machine oil&lt;/em&gt; for my 3D printed extruder gear for a couple of years, without any noticeable wear so far.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In general, I believe any kind of low viscosity oil would do, but then again, it also depends on the environment in which you plan to use the model. If you plan on using it outside, for instance, you probably should get some grease that does not attract dirt, as the dirt itself will grind down the gears quickly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="115" LastEditorUserId="115" LastEditDate="2016-05-31T06:29:10.110" LastActivityDate="2016-05-31T06:29:10.110" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1239" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-30T21:58:12.077" Score="4" ViewCount="1788" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently upgraded to a E3D full hotend and I started to have problems with slowly printed parts. After I print first object and start next one, then the first layer has serious issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wSSm4.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wSSm4.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first two test were extruded around 10mm/s, the right one around 15mm/s. The material is PLA (fillamentum.com) at temperature 210°C and nozzle diameter is 0.4mm. The Rebel II RepRap printer uses RAMPS with marlin firmware. I use Slic3r and Pronterface SW. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I didn't find answer in following troubleshooting guides:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Simplify3D - Print Quality Troubleshooting Guide&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/23-a-visual-ultimaker-troubleshooting-guide&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;A visual Ultimaker troubleshooting guide&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://reprap.org/wiki/Print_Troubleshooting_Pictorial_Guide&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;RepRap - Print Troubleshooting Pictorial Guide&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://all3dp.com/common-3d-printing-problems-and-their-solutions&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;all3dp.com - 16 Common 3D Printing Problems (And Solutions)&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do you have an idea what can cause this issue?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Update&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did a new print, where I just heat the hotend and start printing immediately. This is the result: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Tqugj.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Tqugj.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="75" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2020-01-13T13:48:29.870" LastActivityDate="2020-01-13T13:48:29.870" Title="Failing slow extrusion after upgrade to E3D hotend" Tags="|extruder|slicing|extrusion|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1240" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1239" CreationDate="2016-05-31T04:48:24.967" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bet your old and new extruders have different hobbed pulley/bolt effective diameter.&#xA;It looks like your new extruder has smaller hobbed diameter that's why it pushes too less material.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In MatterControl application there is a slider which allows user to tuneup extrude ratio on the fly (while printing). You coud check it so it would confirm the issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In Slic3r you could go to&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Printer Settings &gt; Advanced &gt; Extrusion width&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and experiment with it (especially with Default extrusion width)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both (Slic3r and MC) could answer your question if it's extrusion ratio issue. If you confirm that - you can proceed with calibration. Here is method to &lt;a href=&quot;http://reprap.org/wiki/Triffid_Hunter&amp;#39;s_Calibration_Guide#E_steps&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;calibrate extruder flow&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://reprap.org/wiki/Calibration&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;general calibration article here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1211" LastActivityDate="2016-05-31T04:48:24.967" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1241" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1239" CreationDate="2016-05-31T11:12:05.943" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;After I print first object and start next one, then the first layer has serious issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are you leaving the hotend on between prints? If you leave an E3D hotend heated up while it's not printing, heat will slowly migrate up the heatbreak and start softening the filament there, which will subsequently become stuck. You should turn off the heat immediately after finishing your print (or, ideally, just have your end G-code contain a command to turn the hotend off).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastActivityDate="2016-05-31T11:12:05.943" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1242" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1243" CreationDate="2016-05-31T16:52:13.810" Score="7" ViewCount="16628" Body="&lt;p&gt;Should I consider health impact of ABS or PLA when printing cookie cutter similar to image below?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How safe it is to use ABS or PLA for kitchenware in general?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xKoaY.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xKoaY.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1190" LastActivityDate="2016-05-31T18:20:54.407" Title="Should I consider health impact of ABS or PLA when printing cookie cutter?" Tags="|pla|abs|health|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1243" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1242" CreationDate="2016-05-31T18:20:54.407" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;If it's one-time-use, both ABS and PLA are perfectly safe for use as a cookie cutter. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &quot;food safety&quot; of 3D printed parts is fairly controversial. In fact, whether any particular material is approved by regulators (such as the US FDA) for food contact is much more complex than most people realize. Materials can be accepted for some uses and not others. But there are two major considerations:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Does the material leach into the food, or does the food leach into the material?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Can the material be adequately cleaned and sterilized between repeated food exposures?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whether leaching is a concern will depend on the kind of contact. For example, nylon will absorb acids but is often used for potable water service. ABS is fine for cold foods but not hot foods. PLA (injection grade) is often used for disposable plastic forks and cold beverage cups, but rarely reusable containers. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is some anecdotal evidence that lots of 3D printing filaments, particularly cheap Asian filaments, contain toxic chemicals in the pigments and additives. Heavy metals like lead, cadmium, strontium, and all sorts of nasty organic chemicals have been found. You probably WON'T get any meaningful leaching of these chemicals in the brief exposure with cookie dough, but to be safe I would only use reputable US and EU filament manufacturers for food contact. I would also stick to filament colors that use non-toxic pigments (eg plain white is almost always safe titanium dioxide) or no pigments at all (&quot;natural&quot; color). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When it comes to cleaning a cookie cutter for multiple uses, ABS is probably a much better choice than PLA, because ABS can withstand fairly hot water without losing shape. PLA probably won't survive a cycle through the dishwasher. PETG is perhaps a better choice than ABS for longer contact with wet foods, but may or may not survive the dishwasher. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, the porous structure of 3D printed parts is a serious problem for cleanliness. The tiny grain structure and voids between extruded strands can act as a safe haven for bacteria between uses. This is particularly an issue with cookie dough containing raw egg. A porous surface for raw-food handling would not be acceptable in a commercial kitchen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, the odds of actually transmitting salmonella via poorly-cleaned cookie cutter may be fairly low. Lots of people cut meat at home on wooden cutting boards (which are also porous) and never get sick. Properly cooking the food immediately after handling will go a long way towards reducing the odds of harmful cross-contamination. You'll have to decide for yourself whether the risk profile is worth it. One-time use is the conservative choice. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="298" LastActivityDate="2016-05-31T18:20:54.407" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1244" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1248" CreationDate="2016-05-31T20:03:01.093" Score="7" ViewCount="9052" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been having a hard time lately getting the raft off of my ABS prints.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is that a symptom of either a nozzle or bed that are too hot? Or is there some other factor I should be looking in to?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have an UP mini that I've modified both the nozzle and bed to customize the temperatures on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bed gets heated to 100˚C and nozzle is either 266˚C for UP ABS filament or 236˚C for off-brand ABS filament.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1953" LastEditorUserId="98" LastEditDate="2016-06-09T01:54:18.303" LastActivityDate="2020-05-16T18:56:14.760" Title="Raft hard to remove?" Tags="|abs|fdm|rafts|fff|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1245" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1246" CreationDate="2016-06-01T00:30:14.640" Score="8" ViewCount="2966" Body="&lt;p&gt;Would I damage anything running 12 V on a 24 V cartridge heater? I know it wont reach a max temperature 300 °C? I am using the E3D hotend set up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="635" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2022-04-19T21:33:01.133" LastActivityDate="2022-04-19T21:37:02.887" Title="Running 12 V on a 24 V heater cartridge?" Tags="|electronics|heat|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="1246" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1245" CreationDate="2016-06-01T03:44:16.830" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Applying 12 V to a 24 V heater cartridge won't damage anything, but you may have severe issues reaching and maintaining your target temp. A standard E3D heater cartridge is 40 W. When you run a 24 V cartridge on 12 V, you only get 10 W of heater power. Here are some rough estimates on where your hot block heat goes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Uninsulated hot block air losses: ~20 W depending on airflow&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Insulated hot block air losses: ~5w depending on airflow&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Filament melt power at typical print speeds: 0.3-3 W depending on filament and print speed&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Heat conducted up the heat break: 1-3 W maybe, hard to quantify&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've never heard of anyone using less than about 16 W to print. (Two 8 W power resistors.) 20 W is the lowest vaguely normal hot end power. I think you'll struggle to print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="298" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2022-04-19T21:37:02.887" LastActivityDate="2022-04-19T21:37:02.887" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="1247" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-01T08:56:51.677" Score="16" ViewCount="28817" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sparked by &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/1245/running-12v-on-a-24v-heater-cartridge&quot;&gt;this question&lt;/a&gt;, I wanted to discuss the most efficient and also the easiest ways of thermally insulating the heat block of the hotend.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have seen &lt;a href=&quot;http://numbersixreprap.blogspot.fr/2013/10/does-insulating-heater-block-make.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Kapton tape insulations as done here&lt;/a&gt; with a very conclusive resumee about its usefulness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the links of the named article, &lt;a href=&quot;http://bukobot.com/hot-end-thermal-management&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;a method with insulating material from a heatbed is described&lt;/a&gt;, however without giving quantitative results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally, I know that in the guys over in the german reprap forum produce their own &lt;a href=&quot;http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?252,584458&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;silicon covers for the heater block&lt;/a&gt;. As I understand there is a large spread between people's reports, from 'almost negligible' as insulator (but helpful for other things) to very useful. No quantification, though. Also, these seem to come with a certain amount of effort to produce.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there additional solutions and/or comparisons between solutions?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="168" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T13:00:58.447" LastActivityDate="2017-11-12T17:41:33.017" Title="Efficient and easy way to thermally insulate the heat block of the hotend?" Tags="|extruder|hotend|heat-management|efficiency|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1248" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1244" CreationDate="2016-06-01T14:12:31.597" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;A couple things to consider:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ensure that your build plate is flat and level. An un-parallel HBP could result in the object &quot;welding&quot; to the raft.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Turn down your nozzle temperature. It is likely that the material is hotter than it needs as it is extruding. This results in a slower &quot;cool-down rate&quot;. So, if it takes longer for the filament to cool between the raft and the first layers of the object. Therefore, cooling together in a manner that somewhat binds them.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Personally, 266C seems VERY high to me. I've primarily only used ABS on my MakerBot and have successfully printed with 225C +-5C nozzle temperature and 110C +-2C HBP temperature.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Typically you want to extrude slightly above the melting point. You don't want to liquefy the material, but make it pliable enough to bond it to other layers of material (or a BP).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="98" LastActivityDate="2016-06-01T14:12:31.597" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1249" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1247" CreationDate="2016-06-01T19:36:45.727" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &quot;quick and dirty&quot; approach is to just slap a bunch of Kapton tape on there. The more the better! (Until you need to dismantle for maintenance, anyway.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I find pre-cut ceramic tape + kapton tape &quot;blankets&quot; to be easy and effective. E3Dv6 and Replicator 1/2 style hot blocks should be compatible. Or you can cut your own using a sharp hobby knife. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DFZDq.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DFZDq.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fargo3dprinting.com/products/makerbot-replicator-2-ceramic-insulation-tape/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.fargo3dprinting.com/products/makerbot-replicator-2-ceramic-insulation-tape/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main downside is that they don't insulate two sides of the hot block. But covering the top and bottom provides much of the practical benefit, and you can always add a few more wraps of Kapton tape to cover up the rest of the surfaces. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another good option that has recently started to become popular is fiberglass heat shield tape. It has a silicone adhesive, woven fiberglass mat, and shiny aluminum surface. (The reflective surface reduces heat radiation.) It's often used in automotive applications around mufflers and the like. You can cut it up into little rectangles for each side of the hot block, or wrap the block similar to Kapton. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DEiZE.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DEiZE.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://shop.raffle.ch/shop/insulation_material/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://shop.raffle.ch/shop/insulation_material/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Main issue is quality -- not all brands have adhesive that will hold up to high temp printing. It may smell when initially &quot;burned in&quot; due to the adhesive cooking a bit. I also find that you need a couple layers to get as much insulation as the ceramic+kapton blanket when there's a lot of airflow around the hot block. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="298" LastActivityDate="2016-06-01T19:36:45.727" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1251" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1253" CreationDate="2016-06-02T15:05:32.857" Score="12" ViewCount="21922" Body="&lt;p&gt;From what I've been able to find out, online sources recommend around 205ºC for PLA and around 240ºC for ABS. But these are only guidelines, of course. Optimal printing temperature can be different depending on the printer, the filament, the model and other slicer settings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, I've had success printing black PLA at 190ºC, but silver PLA of the same brand is giving me trouble. I'm having a hard time figuring out the general rules. So I would like to see a general guide for this, based on (at least) the following questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Which known factors before a print can help determine the right extrusion temperature? Obvious example: ABS vs PLA&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;What can happen during or after a print when the temperature is too low?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;What can happen during or after a print when the temperature is too high?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An answer to the first question could take the form of a lookup table, or similar. The second and third could help someone adjust their temperature based on the symptoms of a failed print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;I understand that the failure or success of a print can depend on many more factors than extrusion temperature, but I didn't want to make this question too general. I may later ask the same question for other settings (e.g., print speed). However, do let me know if this question should be expanded or improved to make it more useful.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1998" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2019-03-06T14:31:14.943" LastActivityDate="2019-03-06T14:31:14.943" Title="How to choose an extrusion temperature?" Tags="|print-quality|extruder|hotend|knowledgebase|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1252" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1251" CreationDate="2016-06-02T17:05:01.757" Score="3" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Some manufacturers give a recommended temperature which would be the best place to start at and adjust from there. Otherwise you could print calibration objects and find the best temp that way. Here is a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:915435&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;temp tower&lt;/a&gt; for that purpose. Mostly it is a trial and error process with all the different printers out there. What might work on one printer may not work on another.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The object may come apart if the temperature is too low as the plastic won't bond well between layers. You may also get a rough surface on the object and the filament may also jam in the hotend as well.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Normally temperatures that are too high, your bridging wont be as good and you will get a lot of stringing. &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/url?sa=i&amp;amp;rct=j&amp;amp;q=&amp;amp;esrc=s&amp;amp;source=images&amp;amp;cd=&amp;amp;cad=rja&amp;amp;uact=8&amp;amp;ved=0ahUKEwjO17385onNAhWIcj4KHQE1B6MQjRwIBw&amp;amp;url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.matterhackers.com%2Farticles%2Fretraction-just-say-no-to-oozing&amp;amp;psig=AFQjCNEUalIAKOP31E4tTKhdvNbzxpbl5g&amp;amp;ust=1464972656607170&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Stringing example&lt;/a&gt;, more filament will ooze out before retracting if your temperature is too high. Your overhangs may also curl at the edges as well.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="762" LastActivityDate="2016-06-02T17:05:01.757" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1253" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1251" CreationDate="2016-06-02T21:19:15.503" Score="10" Body="&lt;h1&gt;Printing temperature basics&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Manufacturers generally specify a somewhat wide range of printing temperatures, and what temperature you should actually need can only be determined by trial and error:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The thermistor in your hotend is not 100 % accurate and may have an offset of a few degrees compared to its actual temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Your hotend has a small temperature gradient, the place where the plastic is melted may have a higher/lower temperature compared to the temperature of your thermistor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2 is further exacerbated by&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol start=&quot;3&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;As you print faster, you need more heat. The cold filament rapidly moving through your hotend will cool it down locally, meaning that the temperature will be cooler than what the thermistor measures. Faster prints equal bumps in the temperature up to 10 °C, and for a really slow print you might turn it down 10 °C from where you normally are.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;This is a minor issue, but different colors of the same brand and material might work better at different temperatures. The pigments used can affect the melting point somewhat. Different brands also might have different temperatures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some symptoms may give you a guide as to how to adjust your temperature:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Printing too hot&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Small/slow prints may not solidify quickly enough, leaving you with an ugly blob.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Stringing/bad bridging.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Plastic in the heatbreak may soften, leading to clogging.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You might burn/degrade the material (but for this you would really need to go outside of the temperature range).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Printing too cool&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Too much force required to extrude, leading so skipping/grinding of the filament drive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Layer delamination: the plastic needs to be hot enough to partially melt the layer below it and stick to it. Objects printed at a colder temperature tend to be weaker at the layer boundaries.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Furthermore, hot prints can sometimes have a more glossy finish than colder prints.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:29:41.667" LastActivityDate="2019-03-06T14:31:08.957" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="1254" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1125" CreationDate="2016-06-02T23:06:56.963" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Good question. The magnets from the build plate will almost certainly interfere with your inductive sensor, the movement from the carriage will induce a current in the inductor as it approaches the magnet and may cause it to trigger. If you're looking for a mag build, I'd suggest looking at: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.3dprintermods.com/prestashop/index.php?id_product=9&amp;amp;controller=product&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.3dprintermods.com/prestashop/index.php?id_product=9&amp;amp;controller=product&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm just about to get into auto-leveling myself, with this particular build there are a few ways to get around the issue. If you plot your auto level to occur as far from the magnets as possible (x,y location wise), then you might be ok. Otherwise you might consider investigating optical and touch probes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2002" LastActivityDate="2016-06-02T23:06:56.963" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1255" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1125" CreationDate="2016-06-03T11:39:52.287" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You might use the magnets themselves or additional ones on top for the leveling process, as partly discussed in this thread:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?1,479795&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?1,479795&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A mechanical or piezo switch might also solve the issue for you with a lot less guesswork and trouble.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="168" LastActivityDate="2016-06-03T11:39:52.287" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1256" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-06-03T11:47:15.693" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Heat management in 3D printers is an essential technical aspect of the design. The tag heat-management is used to signalize that the question touches the thermal design aspects of 3D printers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This can include, but is not limited to &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;hotends and their heating elements, heatbreaks and nozzles, cooling&#xA;setup of the heatbreak&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;heated beds, their heat insulation, effectivity of the thermal design&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;heated chambers, design and efficiency, tech used to heat, controlling the heat&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;cooling of parts that should not be hot as hotend mount and the electronics&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The tag should not be used for cooling of the print, use a dedicated tag here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="168" LastEditorUserId="168" LastEditDate="2016-06-03T18:20:25.797" LastActivityDate="2016-06-03T18:20:25.797" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1257" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-06-03T11:47:15.693" Score="0" Body="Managing temperatures in 3D printers. This includes hotends, heated beds, heated chambers, cooling elements and cooling of electronics." OwnerUserId="168" LastEditorUserId="168" LastEditDate="2016-06-03T18:19:47.043" LastActivityDate="2016-06-03T18:19:47.043" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1258" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1259" CreationDate="2016-06-03T17:56:37.480" Score="6" ViewCount="553" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been working on my own DIY 3-D printer recently, and I've been trying to experiment a little with different materials for the body. Someone suggested using HDPE (high-density polyethylene), since it works well on a CNC machine, which would make creating a number of prototypes easy. I know HDPE can also be used for filament, but I've never tried it before. Does anybody have any input on HDPE, or other potential materials for the body? I'm trying to avoid using wood, as I've had some poor experiences with it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2013" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-07-06T10:23:42.387" LastActivityDate="2019-01-09T10:55:33.483" Title="HDPE as the body of a 3-D Printer?" Tags="|diy-3d-printer|printer-building|hdpe|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1259" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1258" CreationDate="2016-06-03T19:18:42.553" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've used what is commonly described as UHMW-PE, aka, Ultra-high Molecular Weight Polyethylene for various projects. You may know this material is often used in cutting boards, as it cleans easily and doesn't cut easily.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;it does machine in a manner similar to aluminum, although the tool should be cooled/lubricated to prevent a build-up of melted plastic on the cutting edges. You can get away without coolant or lubricant if cutting speeds are slow and the swarf is cleared away from the cutter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd not considered such a material for constructing a 3d printer, as it's expensive, but I've also not compared the prices to equivalent sizes of aluminum. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd consider that the use in a 3d printer would be a good substitute for lexan, as one can tighten the bolts without fear of cracking. For bolts subject to rotation or vibration, self-locking nuts are a good idea. If you have use of a broach, cutting out a pocket for the nuts would be easily accomplished.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have downloaded the plans for the open-source 3d printer known as DICE, which calls for aluminum, but the pricing I've found was excessive for the right quantities. I think I'll explore the same bill of materials in HDPE or UHMW-PE (which may be different names for the same substance).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Equally useful to know is that the material is very slippery, effectively self-lubricating under the right conditions. Unfortunately, for a 3d printer application, I don't believe the self-lubricating part would work for carriages but might be fun to try with linear slides.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is not as stiff as aluminum, so where stiffness is needed and not provided by the architecture, a thicker piece may be indicated. I can just barely bend with my fingers a piece of 3&amp;nbsp;mm (1/8&quot;) a small amount, but cannot do so for aluminum.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's the result of a quick search for UHMWPE:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.interstateplastics.com/Uhmw-Natural-Virgin-Sheet-UHMNV~~SH.php?thickness=0.125&amp;amp;dim2=12&amp;amp;dim3=24&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.interstateplastics.com/Uhmw-Natural-Virgin-Sheet-UHMNV~~SH.php?thickness=0.125&amp;amp;dim2=12&amp;amp;dim3=24&lt;/a&gt; which gives a price for 1/8&quot; white sheet 24&amp;nbsp;x&amp;nbsp;12&quot; as US\$&amp;nbsp;26.06 while the black version is available only as thin as 1/4&quot; for about US$&amp;nbsp;28.00&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The equivalent size in aluminum 6061T6 at onlinemetals.com is about US\$&amp;nbsp;3.00 more expensive. That is lower than I expected, skewing the idea farther away from UHMWPE than one might hope. The equivalent for 1/4&quot; is almost US\$&amp;nbsp;60, quite a bit higher. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It would appear that if you need the thicker stuff, the price is better for plastic, not so good for the aluminum.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-01-09T10:55:33.483" LastActivityDate="2019-01-09T10:55:33.483" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="1262" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1263" CreationDate="2016-06-05T14:24:14.600" Score="4" ViewCount="4201" Body="&lt;p&gt;For a large scale project, I need a slicer which gives me the slices as image (BMP or vector). &#xA;I have a 3d model and want to assemble it manually using large printouts on  cardboard. For this I need my 3d model somehow sliced into 2mm layers, get a silhouette of the outline for every layer  and print it in cardboard. Later all cardboard layer will be cutted manually and glued  in the right order.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does somebody know a slicer, which gives me as output images for every slice?&#xA;Or any different idea how to geht my large cardboard 3d model?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1169" LastActivityDate="2016-06-05T15:26:21.160" Title="Slicer that exports vectors or pics for every slice" Tags="|3d-models|slicing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1263" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1262" CreationDate="2016-06-05T15:26:21.160" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your approach is one of many and you may find that Slic3r will do as you require.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's a direct reference to generating SVG files (vector) at this link:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://manual.slic3r.org/advanced/svg-output&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://manual.slic3r.org/advanced/svg-output&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may have to create a printer profile based on irrational figures when compared to conventional 3d printers. Your 2mm &quot;layer height&quot; should be matched in the printer settings to an appropriate nozzle diameter for the desired result.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may find also that Simplify3d will create such files, but it's not a free program.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An alternative to 3d printer slicing software would be to use OpenSCAD to import your model (or create it directly in code) and use the Projection command to generate the individual layers. I've done this and found it works well, but the process to learning the necessary code was time consuming, as I'm not a programmer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You would also want to incorporate some form of registration in your model, cylindrical holes or external tabs to enable you to properly align each cardboard layer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have a makerspace nearby or know someone with a suitably sized laser cutter, you may also save some labor cutting each panel, as the laser will accept the vector files easily.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastActivityDate="2016-06-05T15:26:21.160" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1264" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-05T20:46:02.477" Score="4" ViewCount="300" Body="&lt;p&gt;What type of printer would one recommend to print and cast car body parts fast on a large scale? Also if I were to print parts for restoration would I need licences from the manufactures?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2027" LastActivityDate="2016-06-12T01:52:34.750" Title="Car Body shop Printers" Tags="|3d-design|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1265" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1264" CreationDate="2016-06-05T21:48:31.857" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://manufacturing.materialise.com/mammoth-stereolithography&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Materialise Mammoth&lt;/a&gt; printers seem to be the predominant choice for manufacturing car body parts. However, any sufficiently large printer (e.g. &lt;a href=&quot;https://bigrep.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;bigrep&lt;/a&gt;) could work. That said, car body parts are quite a challenge to 3D print given how excruciatingly long such large parts take (exacerbating the probability of failure). You will have to very carefully consider whether 3D printing is right for your application (it probably is not).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The licensing part is extremely complicated. You'll have to deal with patents (perhaps the body part incorporates some clever patented feature), trademarks (you generally can't reproduce manufacturer's logo's) and copyrights (if the part is very &quot;artistic&quot; it might be protected by copyright, but this is unlikely). A simple, functional part such as a body panel would generally not be protected by any of these but these three things are the main reason why you &lt;em&gt;might&lt;/em&gt; need a license.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition, you have to be careful as to which materials you use, as these will (most probably) not be as strong/durable as those that are produced by car-parts-manufacturers. Furthermore, if you print the parts yourself, install it in a customer's vehicle, and the vehicle malfunctions, as a result, you may find yourself being sued.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastEditorUserId="115" LastEditDate="2016-06-07T10:28:46.710" LastActivityDate="2016-06-07T10:28:46.710" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1266" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1269" CreationDate="2016-06-06T04:59:03.687" Score="23" ViewCount="15205" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am planning on getting a 3D printer soon and I was just wondering, what do you do with 3D prints that either failed or were prototypes that you no longer want?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I tried looking online but the closest I got was effects on environment, turning prints back into filament, or restarting a failed print half-way, none of which were the information I was looking for.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The solution should be somewhat eco and just keeping unwanted prints in a box somewhere isn't a very good solution either.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Finishing off failed prints isn't totally applicable because it wouldn't apply to prototype prints that you don't want to keep.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there anywhere to send failed 3D prints for professional recycling, or are there any recommendations for properly disposing 3D prints?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In case this is of any use, the printer I am planning to get uses filament that can be made of PLA, ABS, Nylon, and possibly other materials. The printer is this one specifically (&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/101hero/101hero-the-world-first-us49-3d-printer&quot;&gt;https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/101hero/101hero-the-world-first-us49-3d-printer&lt;/a&gt;) from KickStarter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2032" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2018-09-16T12:26:56.903" LastActivityDate="2020-09-02T21:41:52.570" Title="What to do with failed/unwanted 3D prints?" Tags="|filament|pla|abs|recycling|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1267" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1266" CreationDate="2016-06-06T05:56:35.353" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;It will be very difficult to find a recycling facility that will accept your 3D prints, because they're mainly set up to handle packaging material (which constitutes the vast majority of plastic waste) such as bottles. If you sent your 3D prints to your municipal recycling programme they would at best sort it out from the packaging material and incinerate it, and at worst it would contaminate a batch of recycled plastic (of a different type).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might be able to find a recycling company that specializes in recycling the plastics used in your printer, but given the extremely low volume involved it is not worth their or your time to handle it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should discard your prints as household waste, and offset your environmental impact some other way (by paying for some trees to be planted, or investing in renewable energy,...) - this would be a more viable use of your time and resources.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastActivityDate="2016-06-06T05:56:35.353" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1268" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1244" CreationDate="2016-06-06T15:02:27.597" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could try reducing the temperature of the hotend. If you are using too high of a temperature, the ABS will &quot;run&quot; and over-adhere to the raft. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What slicer are you using? I have found that raft quality is drastically affected by the slicer I've used. In my experience, MakerBot and Simplify3D produce the nicest, easiest to remove rafts. I've also had success with Cura.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Barring changing the temperature of your hotend or switching to a new slicer, you could always try printing without the raft. From the sound of it, your bed is hot enough. Do you have Kapton on the bed? If so, give printing without a raft a shot. If sticking is an issue, try painting a slurry of ABS and Acetone onto the bed before starting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2041" LastActivityDate="2016-06-06T15:02:27.597" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1269" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1266" CreationDate="2016-06-06T16:40:52.897" Score="17" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &quot;obvious&quot; answer is re-grinding the prints and making more filament. Unfortunately, this isn't yet a very economical or simple operation. A decent filament extruder capable of holding acceptable diameter tolerances is around $1000, and even then they can be pretty fidgety to operate. You have to have a LOT of volume throughput in your filament extruder for regrinding to be an economical proposition. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some of the reasons why recycling prints into filament can be difficult:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Most plastics will degrade to some extent each time they are extruded. (Both by the 3d printer and by the filament extruder.) PLA will thermally degrade with extended exposure to heat. PET will hydrolyze and break down if not meticulously dried to remove moisture prior to heating to the melting temp. (PETG seems to be less prone to hydrolysis damage than plastic bottle PET, but it still happens to a limited degree.) ABS holds up to extrusion conditions better than most, which is part of why it's favored for injection molding, but there's still the potential to affect properties by depleting additives or cooking out plasticizers. &lt;strong&gt;In practice, this means regrinds generally need to be mixed with fresh pellets at some ratio.&lt;/strong&gt; That dilutes the degraded or additive-depleted polymer with good material so you can maintain the material properties and performance. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you print a variety of different colors, and don't want all your recycled filament to mix and end up a muddy brownish color, it can be difficult to manage the color sorting and matching. Most people don't want different colors along the length of a spool, either. So the regrind has to be mixed evenly in with virgin pellets and a suitable amount of masterbatch colorant to get a reasonable color output. You're not going to run off a new spool with 95% virgin pellets just to recycle a 50 gram failed print, are you? Likewise for material matching. Mixing materials is a bad idea. &lt;strong&gt;If you only print white PLA, this is all pretty easy to manage. But if you print a variety of colors and materials, you've got to set up a material tracking, sorting, and storage operation.&lt;/strong&gt; You &lt;em&gt;can&lt;/em&gt; do it... it's just a hassle. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Diameter control is difficult. 3D printers need a fairly tight diameter control for reliable performance and good quality. This is really the key challenge in any filament extrusion process. Extruded polymers like to change shape as they extrude and cool due to molecular alignment effects. You can't just push molten plastic out a 1.75mm nozzle -- &quot;die swell&quot; will make the extrudate bulge to a larger diameter immediately upon exiting the nozzle. Then you have to actually &lt;em&gt;pull&lt;/em&gt; on the soft filament as it cools to carefully draw it down to the right diameter. The way the filament extruder measures diameter and controls tension is the key to getting acceptable results. Most hobbyist/desktop filament extruders have not succeeded at this. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Those are just the major issues. Filament extrusion is a complex subject with a lot of depth. For a home user of 3d printers, making filament basically becomes a whole second hobby. In my opinion, it only really makes sense in a commercial production printing environment where paid technicians can run the extruder(s) and a very large print throughput makes the pellets+regrind economics much more favorable than just buying new filament. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Reducing and reusing are preferable to recycling. Making your printer more reliable and gaining experience with calibration/configuration will reduce the volume of waste produced. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are also some productive uses that let you reuse unwanted prints as-is or &quot;downcycle&quot; them for productive uses. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I personally keep a box of failed prints (and calibration prints and&#xA;no-longer-needed prototypes) as showpieces for people who want to&#xA;learn about 3D printing, and as toys for my nieces and nephews. I strongly recommend doing your calibration prints with a &quot;toy&quot; calibration model like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:763622&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Benchy&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1090268&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;CaliBlocks&lt;/a&gt;. 3D printing is still new enough that people will happily take dozens of Benchies off your hands for the novelty value.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Failed and unwanted prints can also be used around the workshop for shims, sacrificial&#xA;cushions when clamping or hammering or drilling, or as scrap for experimenting&#xA;with adhesives or post-processing techniques.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;ABS scraps are good for making ABS-slurry as a print bed adhesion treatment&#xA;layer, or for solvent-painting and filling gaps in other prints. Unfortunately, most other filaments do not have such convenient and safe solvents.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Some people have experimented with putting piles of scrap prints on a cookie sheet in an oven and melting them into multicolor cutting boards. There's a lot you can do with this sort of heavy remelt plate if you get creative. (I personally wouldn't use cheap Asian filaments for food contact though, they often have unpleasant contaminants.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="298" LastActivityDate="2016-06-06T16:40:52.897" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1270" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1266" CreationDate="2016-06-06T18:04:03.333" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;At Chaos Computer Club summit in Winter there was a talk from a Maker who recycled by himself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;How can be 3d printing a dual use technology? Print more things, produce less waste, save money!&lt;/em&gt;&#xA;You can see the talk here  &lt;a href=&quot;https://media.ccc.de/v/32c3-7321-re_cycle&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://media.ccc.de/v/32c3-7321-re_cycle&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Update: At Fabcon3D in Erfurt/Germany there presented two startups their prototype for filament extruder. You can either recycle old print-puts or compose your own filament with pellets. &lt;a href=&quot;http://mcubus.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://mcubus.com/&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://3devo.eu/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://3devo.eu/&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;Im not shure how mature their &quot;product&quot; is. But it will be soon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1169" LastEditorUserId="1169" LastEditDate="2016-06-19T06:42:11.580" LastActivityDate="2016-06-19T06:42:11.580" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1271" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1272" CreationDate="2016-06-06T13:33:48.803" Score="12" ViewCount="534" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an object that I want to print in 3D. But I have a few questions about it. What are the things that I have to watch out for when 3D printing?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know how to change the metric size etc. Some  people said that it's best to set the thickness to a low amount and not make the object solid (to leave the inside empty/hollow) in order to save money when printing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this true or does it not matter?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also what if I want two parts of an object to be separate colours or materials?  Do I have to change this in Blender? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any advice and information would be helpful, thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TG6Mg.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TG6Mg.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KIEy1.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KIEy1.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Ulus" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2020-07-13T10:30:05.167" LastActivityDate="2020-07-13T10:30:05.167" Title="3D printing with blender" Tags="|3d-models|3d-design|software|blender|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1272" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1271" CreationDate="2016-06-06T18:54:01.267" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You are correct about the walls. Using a &lt;em&gt;Solidify&lt;/em&gt; object modifier is probably your best bet. A low &lt;em&gt;Thickness:&lt;/em&gt; value (&lt;em&gt;0.1&lt;/em&gt; is probably good) helps keep the walls thin but strong. You can monitor the thickness while you adjust the value from &lt;em&gt;Wireframe&lt;/em&gt; view.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/u4wif.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/u4wif.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally, and &lt;strong&gt;this is probably the most important thing to know&lt;/strong&gt;, your mesh must be clean. By clean, I mean it must all be one piece. No separate cubes, cylinders, etc. that you added while modeling, just one solid piece. Think about it this way. If you have added a cube and part of that cube is inside the rest, it might look good from the outside. But the 3D Printer isn't printing the outside, it's printing everything. So that wall, albeit hidden, that is present on the inside of your mesh &lt;strong&gt;will be printed&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Bad:&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/de7eW.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/de7eW.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Good:&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RQXI3.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RQXI3.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lastly, if you have parts of your mesh that can't be printed from the bottom up, or wouldn't stand by itself, consider adding supports. You can always cut these off later.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Leg added because it wouldn't stand by itself:&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/H1tqC.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/H1tqC.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2044" OwnerDisplayName="Shady Puck" LastActivityDate="2016-06-06T18:54:01.267" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1273" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1271" CreationDate="2016-06-06T20:09:37.473" Score="3" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;What are the things that i have to watch out for when 3d printing? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://blender.stackexchange.com/q/7910/2816&quot;&gt;non manifold geometry&lt;/a&gt; :  geometry that can not exist in the real world.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's a good idea to check if the dimensions of your mesh are correct before exporting:    &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cfYiB.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cfYiB.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;Turning on mesh analysis allows visual inspection of problems such as intersecting faces, sharp edges ,edges with thickness below a threshold and other criterias.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;em&gt;the inspection tool will color the faces with those problems.&lt;/em&gt;   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BLGEK.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BLGEK.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;And lastly you can make selections by traits, such as loose geometry, interior faces or unconnected vertices.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/phD8w.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/phD8w.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;note that those are just tools to help you find the problems , none of them will fix the mesh for 3d printing.&lt;/em&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user2086" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:57:47.393" LastActivityDate="2016-06-06T20:09:37.473" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1274" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1225" CreationDate="2016-06-07T00:43:08.853" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is it possible that in updating Repetier you inadvertently installed it for a single user rather than for everyone? If so, that might account for its stopping when the user is changed.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2043" LastEditorUserId="2043" LastEditDate="2016-06-07T13:09:13.317" LastActivityDate="2016-06-07T13:09:13.317" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1275" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1276" CreationDate="2016-06-07T15:06:01.907" Score="5" ViewCount="4485" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just recently upgraded my Printrbot Simple Metal with a heated bed (and longer x-axis). I looked up some tutorials, and all of them placed the thermistor as in the picture on the left below, so I did too. However, the design of the heat plate seems to strongly suggest thermistor placement as in the picture on the right, inside the small hole near the center.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2nF92.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2nF92.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tzmTq.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tzmTq.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can certainly see the upside of that. The reported temperature may overshoot the average bed temperature (the reasoning used in the tutorials I read), but most of my prints are built in the center of the bed, and the center placement would surely make the temperature control system more responsive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are the pros and cons of these placements? And what would be the proper technique for putting the sensor in the center? Should I still use kapton tape? Do I need to make sure the thermistor makes physical contact with the aluminum of the print bed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1998" LastEditorUserId="1998" LastEditDate="2016-06-07T16:43:55.813" LastActivityDate="2016-06-08T04:16:31.793" Title="Heated bed thermistor placement" Tags="|heated-bed|thermistor|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1276" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1275" CreationDate="2016-06-07T15:47:28.967" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Depending on thermistor type you can get values from around 1ohm/C to 0.01ohm/C&#xA;so placing it on particulat place on heatbed (HB) could be very important. If objects are placed in the center then it's quite obwious that thermistor should be placed also in the middle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another issue in terms of thermistors are the wires. Because thermistors can be so sensitive then wires should have as less influence as possible on its temperature capacity. That's why wires and thermistor legs are so thin. Generally thiner than regular element's legs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Answering your question - I would say it's better to put thermistor in the center hole, to use thermal grease in the hole so thermistor would have contact with HB. And personally I would use special thin wires to connect thermistor to the board. Kapton tape is then usefull to position thermistor head in the hole and in the thermal grease. Have a look on the picture.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LSiUbm.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LSiUbm.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have such configuration. (In fact I got additional insulation as mentioned in &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/1247/efficient-and-easy-way-to-thermally-insulate-the-heat-block-of-the-hotend&quot;&gt;this thread&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would not recommend to use circuit board tracks as a thermistor connectors at all, but it's my opinion of course.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;[edit]&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please be careful - thermal grease can be electrical conductor or insulator. You should choose insulator because short circuit thermistor legs will cause measuring impossible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;[edit2]&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you know HB is not even necessary when you print PLA so in this case it can be even better to not have heating at all than to overheat the bed. Because if you put your thermistor near to the edge of HB then (as said by Leo Ervin) the difference can be at level of 20C so if you heat around 70C and you get 90C your model can become soft on the bed surface and it will loose dimensions or you'll get elephant foot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As stated in the comments - it's not really big deal whether you measure the temperature in the center of somewhere around. The issue is what level of perfection is ok for you. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1211" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T13:00:58.447" LastActivityDate="2016-06-08T04:16:31.793" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1277" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1284" CreationDate="2016-06-07T20:00:05.497" Score="10" ViewCount="3295" Body="&lt;p&gt;It occurs to me that I'm never really thinking about layer height when I calibrate my z-probe offset. This is obviously an oversight, because I'll want my nozzle to start higher for 0.3mm layers than for 0.1mm layers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After this realization comes the question: Do I need to recalibrate every time I switch to a different layer height? Or can slicers store a reference layer height + probe offset and just deduce the proper starting height for every print? Or is it smartest to keep the 1st layer height constant throughout my prints to spare myself this frustration?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it matters, my printer is the Printrbot Simple Metal, and my goto slicer is Cura.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1998" LastActivityDate="2016-06-08T15:57:41.970" Title="Do I need to recalibrate z-probe offset every time I switch to a different layer height?" Tags="|calibration|z-axis|z-probe|layer-height|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1278" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1275" CreationDate="2016-06-07T20:02:07.360" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It doesn't make a great deal of difference where you place the thermistor; do whatever is most convenient for you. The temperature of the heated bed is not very critical, and some inaccuracy in the measurement is perfectly fine. The point is to keep the print from cooling down too fast, and whether the bed is at 95C or 93C makes little difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The pros and cons of thermistor placement are exactly as you describe: in either case the center of the bed will be hotter than the edges. Placing the thermistor in the center the temperature of the center will equal the setpoint, while the edges are cooler than the setpoint. Placing the thermistor at the edge the edge will be at the setpoint while the center will be hotter than the setpoint. Placing the sensor at the center you would need to use a slightly lower setpoint to get the same result compared to having the sensor at the edge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is possible the holes in the PCB are meant for if the PCB is used with a different printer. In any case, soldering the thermistor to the pads and placing it in the hole is acceptable, kapton tape wouldn't be required then (but can't hurt either). It would be best if the thermistor made good contact with the heated bed surface, using (non-conductive!) thermal paste would be convenient for this (but not strictly required).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastActivityDate="2016-06-07T20:02:07.360" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1279" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1277" CreationDate="2016-06-07T20:21:19.093" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The first layer is usually squished more to help with the adhesion. On top of that with ABS there's a bit of deformation even if the print doesn't lift. So spare yourself the frustration, FDM 3d printers aren't that precise themselves for you to care about this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="381" LastActivityDate="2016-06-07T20:21:19.093" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1280" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1277" CreationDate="2016-06-07T22:36:30.410" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Calibrate to perfection for a specific layer height. When printing in a layer height that is different than what you calibrated for, just set the first layer height in the slicer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That way, you avoid re-calibration as much as possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My experience:&#xA;I've overlooked this issue in my experience too. I would usually print in 200 microns. Then for a specific piece I would try to print in 100 microns, and my first layer wouldn't stick. Manually calibrating sucks, setting the first layer height fixes this issue with no discernible drawbacks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="412" LastActivityDate="2016-06-07T22:36:30.410" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1281" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1283" CreationDate="2016-06-07T23:22:16.030" Score="3" ViewCount="808" Body="&lt;p&gt;First, a little background. A couple of years ago, I was researching making my own candy, and I came across this page: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.instructables.com/id/LeGummies-brick-shaped-gummy-candies/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Lego brick shaped gummy candies&lt;/a&gt;, describing how to use real Lego bricks as a positive to make silicone molds for Lego brick shaped candy. Now that I have a 3D printer, and inspired by the usual description of ABS filament (&quot;It's the same plastic used to make Lego bricks&quot;) it occurs to me that I can now make any positive I want.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The question is, would that be safe? I know the filament I'm using is not food safe, but if I create positives for a food safe silicone mold, would toxins leech into the mold? And if so, is there a barrier I can use to prevent this, such as some kind of coating?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1680" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2018-09-16T12:26:40.160" LastActivityDate="2018-09-16T12:26:40.160" Title="Creating positives for a food-safe silicone mold: safe?" Tags="|safety|food|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1282" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1281" CreationDate="2016-06-08T03:24:10.433" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The plastic is not quite your main concern (though it still can be). You should worry about the cracks and crevices in FDM prints. Bacteria loves to hide there. For most people, this is the first concern when it comes to &quot;Is X 3D printed food-safe?&quot; If the end product is a hard material, you should sand or smooth your print to prevent the layer crevices from appearing in the end use product. Also consider food-safe epoxies for filling in gaps. If the end product is made of a flexible silicone, then this is less of a concern.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;ABS is not food safe. PLA as a material is considered food safe by the 3D printing community, but I have not seen a scientific study on this. However, many filament makers do not extrude pure PLA. Therefore, the answer to your question is that it depends on the manufacturer. You will need to contact the company to know what is in the filament first. Beware of untrustworthy manufacturers that claim food safety without backing that up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="691" LastActivityDate="2016-06-08T03:24:10.433" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1283" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1281" CreationDate="2016-06-08T07:40:44.583" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;In principle, ABS is safe for contact with (cold or room-temperature) food. The two main concerns specific to 3D printing are, assuming you start with a filament that is not itself contaminated:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Pores and holes in the printed part which may harbor bacteria&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Impurities introduced into the plastic during the printing process&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I doubt that the silicone mold will capture the pores and holes with sufficient detail to be of any concern (it certainly won't capture the internal structure, only the surface).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That leaves us with 2. It has been noted that brass nozzles contain trace amounts of lead. This lead can contaminate the printed part, which may in turn contaminate your mold, which may in turn contaminate your food. I don't think this is of realistic concern, since we're looking at trace amounts of trace amounts of lead. The nozzle might also have burnt plastic stuck to it (which might be carcinogenic) so you should make sure to do the print with a very clean nozzle and at a temperature that is not too high.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;ABS is food safe for contact with cold or room-temperature food. It is however not food safe for contact with hot food, because at higher temperatures the food may leach certain chemicals out of the plastic. Your application is one of low temperature, but silicone is not food and might perhaps leach some contaminants out of the plastic, regardless of temperature. However, this concern is not specific to 3D printing, as it applies to the method of making moulds out of Lego bricks as well. Therefore, making moulds from 3D printed positives does not appear to be different in a food safety perspective from making them out of LEGO blocks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastActivityDate="2016-06-08T07:40:44.583" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1284" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1277" CreationDate="2016-06-08T15:57:41.970" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;All modern slicers adjust the nozzle position for the first layer in accordance with your chosen layer height. You can see this in your gcode if you slice files with different layer heights. &lt;em&gt;Before you add special slicer settings and offsets,&lt;/em&gt; if you print 0.1mm layers, the nozzle will start at Z=0.1mm, and if you print 0.3mm layers, the nozzle will start at Z=0.3mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are two reasons this is more complex and less reliable than it seems:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Different slicers assume different initial tramming gaps.&lt;/strong&gt; And your actual tramming gap may not match that assumption. If the slicer thinks your nozzle is leveled at Z=0 with a real physical gap of 0.1mm to start with, that means gcode Z=0.1mm is actually a 0.2mm gap that must be filled with plastic. So the slicer must compensate by starting lower than the nominal layer height. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So what works perfectly for one slicer won't necessarily work correctly for another slicer. And if you tram with a thinner object than the slicer expects (say a post-it note instead of business card) then your first layer will be off.  This is why I personally prefer physical build plate leveling mid-print using screws while watching the strands go down. It bypasses all the assumptions about tramming gaps and just gives you the correct result. (Or you can do the same thing with babystepping in firmware that supports that.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other issue is that &lt;strong&gt;people use lots of weird, ad hoc slicer tricks to get their first layer to stick&lt;/strong&gt;. Things like printing the first layer much hotter, or at half speed, or squashed way down and over-extruded, or at 60% layer height, or at 200% extrusion width, will all affect the extrusion volume calibration and the space-filling behavior of the molten plastic flowing onto the bed. The slicer doesn't really have the ability to understand &quot;your&quot; first-layer adhesion recipe. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The combination of incorrect/unknown tramming gap and person-specific first-layer settings is why the slicer can't always get the first layer height and extrusion volume correct across all layer heights. Within some fairly reasonable assumptions, the slicer is smart enough to always correctly relate extruder flow and nozzle position so it fills the space between the nozzle and whatever surface you're printing onto. But if you break those assumptions, it may perform differently for different settings. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="298" LastActivityDate="2016-06-08T15:57:41.970" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1286" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1287" CreationDate="2016-06-09T06:56:11.857" Score="6" ViewCount="8524" Body="&lt;p&gt;I need to transport my FDM 3D Printer because I am moving.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are the precautions that one should take?&lt;br&gt; Should I dismount the motors and axes?&lt;br&gt; I would definitively unplug the electronics as far as reasonable and fix the motors to the frame so they don't slide during transport.&lt;br&gt; Should I have a housing to avoid dust and other mechanical issues?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="168" LastEditorUserId="168" LastEditDate="2016-06-09T07:12:56.923" LastActivityDate="2024-01-18T17:52:23.210" Title="How to transport a 3D printer? Dismount needed?" Tags="|safety|mechanics|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1287" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1286" CreationDate="2016-06-09T07:50:17.573" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, fix the motors and any other loose/movable parts. Remove the bowden tube if it's there, and any other parts that are sticking out. Put the whole thing in a a bag to protect from dust, and put the bag in a box to protect it from getting beat up. Remember to calibrate it when you're ready to set it up again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1778" LastActivityDate="2016-06-09T07:50:17.573" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1288" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4" CreationDate="2016-06-09T17:52:05.270" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I spent some time looking at making an FDM machine that would print bronze filament.  An alloy commonly made into wire had a difference between the solidus and liquidus temperature of only 50 degrees C.  I determined that one could make a conventional hot end, electrically heated, made of either molybdenum or tungsten.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did not determine how the bronze would behave in the 50 degree solid-to-liquid zone.  I was more concerned about the solubility of the nozzle material in copper, for which I could find very little published data.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From my experience welding, and from printing plastics with FDM, there could be a problem with layer adhesion.  To really bond, the cooled material needs to be melted by the material being deposited in the next layer.  This is complicated by the temperature of the cooled material, the thermal conductivity of the material, and the propensity of the material to form oxides. These could be mitigated by heating the object in an inert atmosphere.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, to answer the question, I would suggest looking at bronze alloys because they melt at moderate temperatures, and are less prone to oxidation than aluminum alloys.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2082" LastActivityDate="2016-06-09T17:52:05.270" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1289" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4" CreationDate="2016-06-09T19:34:53.960" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;A few things are required for effective extrusion-style 3d printing materials:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It must stay where placed by the nozzle long enough to harden (or, alternately for pastes and such, have a shear-thinning or thixotropic viscous profile so it will not flow under its own weight). &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If using a filament extruder, it must have a wide range of viscosity that varies gradually over a considerable temperature range. This is necessary to develop the proper &quot;cap zone&quot; semi-melt shearing behavior that allows the incoming filament to act like a piston and generate pressure upstream of the nozzle. Pellet extruders have a similar requirement but related to screw/wall shearing rather than filament/wall shearing. If using neither filament nor pellets, such as clay printers, the material must be pumpable by a positive-displacement pump. (It is possible to pump molten metal, but the cost is quite high.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It must form some kind of bond with previously-deposited solid material, without needing to be in a state that will rapidly flow and lose shape.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It must have some combination of low shrinkage, the ability to creep at the printer's ambient temp, and/or low stiffness that allows consecutive layers to be stacked without an unacceptable amount of warping. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Liquid metals tend to have a conflict between &quot;Staying where you put it&quot; and &quot;bonding with the previous layer.&quot; In order for deposited metal to fully bond, the interface material needs to reach the melting point so a true fusion weld occurs. And in order to supply enough heat to remelt the interface without an additional heat source like an arc, the deposited molten metal needs to be very hot. So it will tend to run while it cools. High density and high heat capacity makes it run fast and cool slowly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pretty much every DIY metal 3d print (such as made by wire-feed MIG welders) ends up looking something like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FTyNd.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FTyNd.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprint.com/29944/diy-metal-printing-garage/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://3dprint.com/29944/diy-metal-printing-garage/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In comparison, polymers have long molecular chains that allow them to &quot;diffusion weld&quot; and adhere WITHOUT fully remelting the interface. Molten liquid plastic will stick to solid plastic quite effectively. The interface only needs to get hot enough for appreciable diffusion to intertwine the molecular chains. This will occur between the glass point and melting point, without true fusion occurring. So you can print molten plastic at a temperature where it will stay in place long enough to harden, and still get good bonding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Metals also tend to be very stiff, which encourages warping. It is difficult to build a heated environment of sufficient temperature to properly stress-relieve the thermal contraction stress as the print progresses, whereas with plastic a heated build plate and warm enclosure can permit warping stresses to start relaxing as the print progresses. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;It is possible to &quot;FDM-style&quot; 3d print filament/wire made of metal alloys that have a wide range between solidus and liquidus.&lt;/strong&gt; It has &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.adafruit.com/adablog/wp-content/uploads/2013/11/MetalPrinting.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;been done using solder&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://blog.reprap.org/2011/06/new-approach-to-printing-metals.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;similar alloys&lt;/a&gt;. However, between the warping stresses, poor layer bonding from inadequate interface re-melting, and use of soft low-melting alloys, &lt;strong&gt;the resulting printed parts will usually end up being weaker than if they had simply been printed in a strong plastic.&lt;/strong&gt; For example, PEEK is nearly as strong as aluminum, and carbon fiber or fiberglass composite plastics can exceed metals on various performance metrics. So what's the point of printing with weak, brittle metal alloys?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Over the years, lots of people have tried FDM-style metal printing, but no one has found it worthwhile to pursue in the long run. More typical DIY metal printing approaches like 3D MIG welding following by cleanup machining will produce better results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="298" LastEditorUserId="168" LastEditDate="2016-06-10T13:32:20.493" LastActivityDate="2016-06-10T13:32:20.493" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1292" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1293" CreationDate="2016-06-10T04:09:11.657" Score="23" ViewCount="12010" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a home built RepRap with all sides open..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would there be any advantage to enclosing the print area in acrylic?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="47" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2021-11-13T09:48:10.700" LastActivityDate="2021-11-14T04:28:54.973" Title="Should I enclose my 3D Printer?" Tags="|reprap|cooling|knowledgebase|enclosure|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1293" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1292" CreationDate="2016-06-10T06:58:02.073" Score="19" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is hard to tell whether you personally should enclose your printer. However, you asked for the advantages and I will name some of them on which one can base a decision.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A 3D printer enclosure&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;helps to keep the temperature of the whole print at controlled levels, if you use a heating element, thermocouple and &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/PID_controller&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;pid regulator&lt;/a&gt;. This is one of the most direct uses of the enclosure, which can be achieved by almost no other means. One could sloppily say it does for the whole print what the heatbed does for the initial layers. Controlling the temperature can be beneficial for layer adhesion and can help against delamination problems. This can go as far as fixing cracks and complete delamination (Thanks to @J. Roibal for bringing these cracks to my attention in the comments)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;keeps &lt;a href=&quot;http://hackaday.com/2016/02/01/3d-printing-fumes-new-science/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;dangerous fumes&lt;/a&gt; controlled. Here you can find a scientific study about it, published in &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S1352231013005086&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Atmospheric Environment 79, titled 'ultrafine particle emission from desktop 3D printers&lt;/a&gt;, on exactly that topic. You can embed a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:339128&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;filter with a fan&lt;/a&gt; in your housing to filter the air from all dangerous fumes that are created when melting certain plastic types. It could just circulate the air inside the chamber or get the filtered air out of the housing. This is another use which cannot be achieved otherwise (afaik).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;can keep humidity away from your printer. This is helpful for filaments that attract water (and don't print well under that circumstance). This should be realized separately for stored filament, too, adding some silica gel to regulate humidity. (Thanks to @Obmerk Kronen in the comments)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;minimizes losses of your heatbed. This happens in at least two ways, - the heated bed will also heat the surroundings, that is the inside of the enclosure. By raising its temperature, the temperature difference and hence heat loss is minimized. Also wind, introducing high fluctuations in the transfered (i.e. lost) heat is minimized. In that sense, it also&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;shuts out any wind for print temperature stability. Also dust and particles that could be blown on the print will be shut out (thanks to the addition of dust/particles: @Obmerk Kronen). This is a benefit that comes without having a heated chamber or filter.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;helps to keep the printer clean in between use. Your axes will thank you being free from dust.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;reduces smell and noise. If you use the printer in you living area, that alone can be a great benefit.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;makes sure that your printer is safe during storage, nothing will fall on it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;can look pretty nice and add to the style of your printer, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.instructables.com/id/3d-Printer-Enclosure-from-Upcycled-Furniture/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;even if selfmade&lt;/a&gt; ;-) &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are obviously also downsides, as: connected work/money to make it, increased space used for the printer, and, if not well made for that purpose (which it should be), increased difficulty in repairs and maintenance of the printer itself (i.e. to get the printer out of the enclosure).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="168" LastEditorUserId="168" LastEditDate="2016-06-17T08:36:39.480" LastActivityDate="2016-06-17T08:36:39.480" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1294" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1286" CreationDate="2016-06-10T08:54:16.337" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Transporting a 3D printer does not require special precautions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously you should package it to protect it from damage (but this depends on the mode of transportation and how sturdy your printer is; if you are just placing it in the back of your car with no chance of it bumping in to anything, no packaging is required at all).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It might be wise to secure the carriage(s) in place so they can't move around, but I would definitely not bother with unplugging anything (apart from the mains power, naturally). Leaving the motors plugged in means they will provide some holding torque, which might be advantageous to keep your axes from sliding around.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Dust is not too great of a concern, as 3D printers can handle it (to some degree) thanks to the seals included on linear bearings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastActivityDate="2016-06-10T08:54:16.337" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1295" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-06-10T09:06:46.190" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2016-06-10T09:06:46.190" LastActivityDate="2016-06-10T09:06:46.190" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1296" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-06-10T09:06:46.190" Score="0" Body="Enclosures of 3D printers can include simple self-made noise shielding housings up to professionally built heated chambers. This tag is not used for the frame of the 3D printer itself unless it directly comprises an enclosed printing area to some extent." OwnerUserId="168" LastEditorUserId="168" LastEditDate="2016-06-10T13:33:37.277" LastActivityDate="2016-06-10T13:33:37.277" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1297" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-06-10T09:08:37.683" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Any questions related to 3D printer (hardware) frame design and issues can be tagged with this tag. Please note that this should not be used for other hardware parts like e.g. heated beds, extruders, etc., that have their own tags. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-07-09T14:33:49.380" LastActivityDate="2018-07-09T14:33:49.380" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="1298" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-06-10T09:08:37.683" Score="0" Body="For questions that concern the mechanical parts of 3D printing such as: frames, axes, pulleys, belt tension devices, etc." OwnerUserId="168" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-07-09T14:33:31.240" LastActivityDate="2018-07-09T14:33:31.240" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="1299" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-06-10T09:11:36.227" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2016-06-10T09:11:36.227" LastActivityDate="2016-06-10T09:11:36.227" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1300" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-06-10T09:11:36.227" Score="0" Body="Print-material, in comparison to the tag 'material', helps to specify that the question is concerned with the material the print itself is made from. This includes 'filament' as a subgroup but also SLS polymers for example." OwnerUserId="168" LastEditorUserId="168" LastEditDate="2016-06-10T13:33:56.047" LastActivityDate="2016-06-10T13:33:56.047" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1301" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-06-10T09:27:09.653" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.repetier.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;code&gt;Repetier-host&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.repetier.com/documentation/repetier-firmware/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;code&gt;repetier-firmware&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/a&gt; are projects concerned with 3D printer software.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;code&gt;repetier-host&lt;/code&gt; is used to send g-code to 3D printers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;code&gt;repetier-firmware&lt;/code&gt; is firmware for the Arduino based control boards of RepRap based 3D Printers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;code&gt;Repetier&lt;/code&gt; is usually synonymous for &lt;code&gt;repetier-firmware&lt;/code&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="150" LastEditorUserId="150" LastEditDate="2018-10-25T11:18:40.940" LastActivityDate="2018-10-25T11:18:40.940" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="1302" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-06-10T09:27:09.653" Score="0" Body="Repetier and repetier.com are projects concerned with 3D printer software. 'Repetier' is usually use synonymous for repetier-firmware, which is a 3D printer firmware. Use the 'repetier-host' tag if your question is about the host software." OwnerUserId="168" LastEditorUserId="168" LastEditDate="2016-06-10T13:33:03.447" LastActivityDate="2016-06-10T13:33:03.447" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1303" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-06-10T09:28:33.907" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Repetier-Host is a 3D printing application developed by Hot-World GmbH &amp;amp; Co. KG. It is a &lt;code&gt;host&lt;/code&gt; software, meaning it is used to send g-code commands from a computer to a 3D printer. More details &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Repetier-Host&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="150" LastEditorUserId="150" LastEditDate="2018-10-25T11:18:49.487" LastActivityDate="2018-10-25T11:18:49.487" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="1304" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-06-10T09:28:33.907" Score="0" Body="For questions regarding the repetier-host software used to send g-code commands to 3D printers" OwnerUserId="168" LastEditorUserId="150" LastEditDate="2018-10-25T11:18:25.283" LastActivityDate="2018-10-25T11:18:25.283" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="1305" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-06-10T09:30:52.170" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2016-06-10T09:30:52.170" LastActivityDate="2016-06-10T09:30:52.170" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1306" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-06-10T09:30:52.170" Score="0" Body="The Arduino Mega 2560 is one of the most common microprocessor boards used to control 3D printers. If you think your Arduino is part of your issue, you can use this tag." OwnerUserId="168" LastEditorUserId="28598" LastEditDate="2021-05-29T08:12:17.297" LastActivityDate="2021-05-29T08:12:17.297" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="1307" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-06-10T09:33:26.927" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2016-06-10T09:33:26.927" LastActivityDate="2016-06-10T09:33:26.927" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1308" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-06-10T09:33:26.927" Score="0" Body="In electronic systems and computing, firmware is a type of software that provides control, monitoring and data manipulation of engineered products and systems. Use this tag for questions about the firmware of your 3D printer. Include name and version as well as custom modifications that might be helpful to understand your problem" OwnerUserId="168" LastEditorUserId="168" LastEditDate="2016-06-10T13:34:06.500" LastActivityDate="2016-06-10T13:34:06.500" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1309" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1396" CreationDate="2016-06-10T18:35:07.770" Score="14" ViewCount="3497" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been trying to build &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/Ultimaker/CuraEngine&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;CuraEngine&lt;/a&gt; on Ubuntu following the Github instructions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem is that it lists some requirements:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Clone the CuraEngine repository;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Install Protobuf (see below);&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Install &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/Ultimaker/libArcus&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;libArcus&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure where should I install Protobuf and libArcus. After several tries and locations I've received several errors during the build process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone have a more detailed guide on how to build this engine?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1923" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2017-05-18T10:01:20.563" LastActivityDate="2017-05-18T10:01:20.563" Title="How to build CuraEngine?" Tags="|software|slicing|ultimaker-cura|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1310" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1311" CreationDate="2016-06-11T12:19:06.190" Score="3" ViewCount="539" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Background:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am using the Flux Delta 3d Printer, and it arrived with a glue stick. Now on their forums it said to apply 2 layers of glue and let it dry, there's supposed to be a link there on how long it should dry. However that link is broken. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;My question:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On a not heated bed, how much glue-stick should I apply and for how long should I let it dry?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="200" LastActivityDate="2016-06-11T14:21:39.703" Title="Not Heated Build Plate Glue Amount and Dry Duration" Tags="|desktop-printer|build-plate|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1311" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1310" CreationDate="2016-06-11T14:21:39.703" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;As a fellow Flux Delta owner, I can answer this question with certainty. Two layers is sufficient. Be sure to consider the size of the model being printed and the additional area covered if you are using skirts or rafts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you apply the glue stick at the moment you turn on the printer, it will be dry enough to work properly. The printer &quot;uses time&quot; to initialize and to calibrate which provides enough drying time. You will also &quot;use time&quot; to load the software and import the model.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is not necessary to remove the glue from the plate after a print. For succeeding model printing, ensure that you've filled in the areas missing glue from removing the previous model.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will want to remove the glue (hot water works good, but the build plate gets hot!) when you feel that the glue build-up changes the texture of the bottom layers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may have already learned from the forums that you print on the non-grid side of the build plate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastActivityDate="2016-06-11T14:21:39.703" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1312" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1315" CreationDate="2016-06-11T15:31:38.163" Score="8" ViewCount="3114" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am printing on a non-heated bed right now, but the question also applies to heated building plates. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How often should you replace the glue layers that's supposed to be applied before printing? Some say you can do up to a few prints, such as in this &lt;a href=&quot;https://ultimaker.com/en/community/19056-glue-stick-or&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;forum&lt;/a&gt;, while others say to replace it every print. What is the correct approach?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="200" LastActivityDate="2018-10-28T06:58:25.120" Title="How often should I replace the glue layers on the bed?" Tags="|desktop-printer|heated-bed|build-plate|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1313" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1312" CreationDate="2016-06-11T16:04:20.030" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;As noted in the answer to the other question you asked, the Flux Delta steel plate bed will handle multiple layers of glue. The determining factor regarding this particular printer and specific glue is how many ripples, bumps and/or lines you are willing to tolerate on the first layer of your prints. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll notice that a print made with a couple layers of glue, freshly applied, will have a relatively smooth surface. Peel off the model, apply glue over the now-cleared areas, and you've created a slightly-less-than-smooth surface for your next model.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've found that I can apply six to ten layers before the ripples become objectionable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastActivityDate="2016-06-11T16:04:20.030" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1314" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1312" CreationDate="2016-06-11T16:05:45.997" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I usually add some glue each time I print a new part. I re-apply over places where recent part left a visible &quot;footprint&quot;. But after a few prints, the glue layer becomes too thick so it has influence on the height of the first layer. If so,  I dismount the glass and clean it with hot water. I do this after about 5 prints... (+/- of course).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Generally the glue becomes white when it dries up, so I use this as an indication or sign for when it has to be cleaned.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would say there are no strict rules. Do some experiments and observe the first layer surface. Then you'll find your correct way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1211" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-10-28T06:58:25.120" LastActivityDate="2018-10-28T06:58:25.120" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="1315" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1312" CreationDate="2016-06-11T16:20:31.430" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Depends on the glue and on your tolerance for messy undersides on your prints. It's fairly common for some of the glue to come off with the print. Or you may have marks from scrapers or rafts. Do you want to touch up that spot and have some artifacts on the bottom of the next print, or clean and redo the bed to get everything flat?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Gluestick is pretty easy to wash and reapply. It can also be freshened up with a gentle spray of water, smeared flat, and redried, or more gluestick added on top. It will really come down to your preferred workflow. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="298" LastActivityDate="2016-06-11T16:20:31.430" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1316" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1318" CreationDate="2016-06-12T01:30:25.640" Score="9" ViewCount="1701" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use OctoPrint on an Ubuntu system with a M3D printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Midway through a recent print, the filament just stopped extruding although the motor-functions of the printer were proceeding fine. Since then, every print I attempt has trouble extruding proper amounts of filament. It's always not enough. The output is stringy and not cohesive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm thinking there may simply be a clog in the extruder and wondering the safest way to remove it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The weird thing, though, is that when I use manual control and extrude at, say, 220C, the filament comes out fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can see the raft definitely isn't printing right. Way too little output:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/M4Ih4.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/M4Ih4.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1601" LastEditorUserId="1601" LastEditDate="2016-06-12T01:41:07.727" LastActivityDate="2016-06-17T14:55:23.523" Title="M3D filament not extruding well (anymore)" Tags="|filament|extruder|octoprint|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1318" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1316" CreationDate="2016-06-12T01:40:58.163" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Suggested remedies for 3-D printers which are not extruding required amount of filament:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;First, check the temperature of the extruder. Try 220-225C to see if that improves the problem.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The second step is to increase the flow of the filament (increase mm/sec) for extruder speed.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A final step is to increase distance between extruder and base-plate. If the extruder is too close to the baseplate, there may not be enough space for the filament to begin the printing process.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another possible source of lack of material extrusion is a clogged extruder. To solve this problem:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Retract filament using jog control in software&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Heat extruder 20-30 degrees Celsius above normal extrusion temperature &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Disassemble Extruder, use small thin wire to remove blockage (guitar wire as suggested below)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2111" LastEditorUserId="2111" LastEditDate="2016-06-17T14:55:23.523" LastActivityDate="2016-06-17T14:55:23.523" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1320" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1244" CreationDate="2016-06-12T02:02:09.990" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Do you allow the filament to cool completely (5-10 minutes or longer after printing) before you begin to remove the rafter, or do you remove the printed piece immediately after finished printing and begin to remove the rafter? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my experience, I have noticed that the rafter is easier to remove if the piece is still somewhat warm from the heated bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2111" LastActivityDate="2016-06-12T02:02:09.990" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1321" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1160" CreationDate="2016-06-12T02:05:12.193" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&quot;Make&quot; Magazine compares 3-D printers in a way that is as scientific as possible to help determine the strengths/weaknesses of each 3-D printer compared to others. The link to the November 2015 comparison test is available here: &lt;a href=&quot;http://makezine.com/comparison/3dprinters/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://makezine.com/comparison/3dprinters/&lt;/a&gt; I was unable to find the ability to compare among dual-extruders, however. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2111" LastActivityDate="2016-06-12T02:05:12.193" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1323" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-12T11:29:14.060" Score="5" ViewCount="1184" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to line up the physical print bed of my printer (Printrbot  Simple Metal) to the virtual print area of the slicer (Cura). So far, they've never been properly aligned. It was never that big a problem because, worst case scenario, my print would simply not be dead-center on the bed. But I've decided to try and fix it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Here are pictures of a test model in Cura, and the resulting physical print:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JuYNG.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JuYNG.png&quot; alt=&quot;model in Cura&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/z2jB9.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/z2jB9.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;printed model&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What's the proper way to align the two? It seems I just got lucky with the x-axis here (though note that the BuildTak surface is a bit off center). But obviously the y-axis needs fixing. The print needs to start a little lower, because print-head couldn't reach the highest point, and the y-axis motor slipped to compensate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ideally, the fixed parameters of the print bed size and offset would be set by the Marlin firmware (EEPROM?). But I also need to be able to do a little offset tweaking on the software side for when I need to replace the BuildTak mat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit:&lt;/strong&gt; I tried &lt;code&gt;M206&lt;/code&gt; (home offset) commands, but the result is definitely not what we want. I cancelled these early.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8H6iu.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8H6iu.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;M206 Y-15&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/N2pL3.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/N2pL3.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;M206 Y15&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The upper print has &lt;code&gt;M206 Y-15&lt;/code&gt;, the lower print has &lt;code&gt;M206 Y15&lt;/code&gt;. What seems to happen is that the coordinate system is not physically shifted. Instead, the area is 'cropped'. All filament that &lt;em&gt;should&lt;/em&gt; go outside the boundaries is actually extruded 'on the edge', resulting in an ugly blob.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1998" LastEditorUserId="1998" LastEditDate="2016-06-12T17:52:58.337" LastActivityDate="2016-06-12T17:52:58.337" Title="How to line up (x,y) print area between hardware and software?" Tags="|software|slicing|firmware|build-plate|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1324" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1323" CreationDate="2016-06-12T16:16:18.623" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The problem you are experiencing is because the position where the y endstop is triggered does not correspond to &lt;code&gt;y = 0&lt;/code&gt;, but perhaps corresponds to &lt;code&gt;y = 15&lt;/code&gt; (replace 15 by the offset you're seeing). You can perhaps solve this by adjusting the endstop to trigger at the correct point, but you can also adjust this behavior in software: In your start G-code, after the homing (&lt;code&gt;G28&lt;/code&gt;) command, insert a &lt;code&gt;G92 Y15&lt;/code&gt; to tell the printer that the current position (reached after homing) is actually &lt;code&gt;y = 15&lt;/code&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another option is to use the &lt;code&gt;M206&lt;/code&gt; command to permanently store the offset in EEPROM (rather than needing to provide it in the start code each time).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your printer moves towards max rather than min, the same applies, but consider that the offset may be caused by the bed size defined in your firmware not corresponding to the bed size set in your slicer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastActivityDate="2016-06-12T16:16:18.623" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1325" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-12T21:13:39.727" Score="12" ViewCount="2736" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm new to 3D Printing. I've created this star from Blender3d. As far as I know, most printers require a flat bottom.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you can see (blue line is Z-axis, red line is X-axis, green line Y-axis), the star doesn't have any flat sides or points.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Mh6Bw.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Mh6Bw.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's a hole in the middle of the star.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/V4a6C.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/V4a6C.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a printer (brand/model) that can print this object that doesn't have any flat bottom or sides having a hole that goes through in the middle? Any workarounds to print this object?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="197" LastEditorUserId="98" LastEditDate="2016-06-14T16:07:35.943" LastActivityDate="2016-06-14T16:07:35.943" Title="How to 3D Print 5-pointed star object that doesn't have flat bottom and hole in the middle?" Tags="|3d-design|3d-models|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1326" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1325" CreationDate="2016-06-12T22:01:00.663" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Typical FDM desktop 3D printers might struggle with this model as it requires you to either print large overhangs and use support structure (when printed laying down), or lacks a natural flat bottom surface to get good print adhesion (when printed upright). A couple of suggestions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Some FDM printers are great at printing support, and some even allow you to print dissolvable support structure. If you find one of these, you are home safe.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You could split the model in two, print those parts separately, and then glue them together afterwards. This is quite common for complex models, and allows you to print your model on even basic FDM printers. Tom's answer illustrates this well.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are naturally other 3D printer technologies too (SLA, resin etc.), but I have no practical experience with these myself, and leave it up to others to give you a good answer regarding these.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="115" LastEditorUserId="115" LastEditDate="2016-06-13T05:11:01.453" LastActivityDate="2016-06-13T05:11:01.453" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1327" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1325" CreationDate="2016-06-13T04:37:20.693" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The existing answer seems to suggest printing the model in the orientation as shown (e.g. with the Z-axis of the part corresponding to the Z-axis to the printer) with either support or splitting it in half.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using supports in this way is a bad idea, because it will leave a very rough surface finish due to the geometry (and be very hard to remove, unless you want to deal with troublesome support material). The model also will have no contact with the build plate at all, making it very likely that it will detach (even when you're using support, you want a reasonable amount of surface area making contact with the build plate). You'd have to drill out the hole in the middle (since support can not be removed there).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The approach of splitting it in half and printing in this orientation isn't ideal either, because the surface finish will again be very rough due to the very gentle curves of the star. The hole in the middle will also turn out a bit deformed and flattened and require support.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Instead, for this model, a much better approach is to split it like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eXp5g.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eXp5g.png&quot; alt=&quot;The model is split by a line passing through two &amp;quot;points&amp;quot; of the star.&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The top half has no overhang at all, and the bottom half only has gentle overhangs that are easy to print without support. The surface finish will be much better compared to printing in the other orientation. Moreover, the hole can also be printed in the XY plane leaving it cleaner as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastActivityDate="2016-06-13T04:37:20.693" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1328" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-13T07:07:27.443" Score="11" ViewCount="3615" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm setting up my printer in a small room, and I thought I'd come up with a system for more easily swapping filaments, but I'm not yet sure it is feasible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rather than physically replace the spool, I'd like to hang most of my spools on the wall, where they can rotate, and only swap filament leads in the (direct drive) extruder. The spools would be placed at some distance from the extruder, and at various angles. So to make sure the filament is pulled from the spool at the proper angle, and to avoid breaking it, I think it should probably run through a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01CVKM62Q&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;flexible tube&lt;/a&gt; to reach the printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know such tubes are used for Bowden style extruders, but what I'm proposing is different in at least two ways: &lt;strong&gt;[1]&lt;/strong&gt; the extruder motor would be &lt;em&gt;pulling&lt;/em&gt; (not &lt;em&gt;pushing&lt;/em&gt;) filament through the tube and &lt;strong&gt;[2]&lt;/strong&gt; the tube would be longer than normal, e.g., between 1 and 2 meters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this plan feasible? Or are the problems I am not foreseeing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit 1:&lt;/strong&gt; I don't know where I got 1-2 meters from. The distance is actually closer to 50cm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit 2:&lt;/strong&gt; To clarify my proposed setup, here's a crude mockup:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nWcuk.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nWcuk.png&quot; alt=&quot;mockup&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1998" LastEditorUserId="1998" LastEditDate="2016-06-13T19:07:09.893" LastActivityDate="2016-12-06T21:25:10.133" Title="Pulling filament through long tubes" Tags="|filament|extruder|motor|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1329" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1328" CreationDate="2016-06-13T08:24:48.347" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would say it's not the best approach. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the situation you've described I would rather install some kind of vertical ring a bit above your printer. This ring would organize your filament going from any direction. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So let's assume you got one spool on the right and one on the left of your printer, both are 1m away from the printer itself. If you get filament and put throught the ring then to your extruder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my opinion the ring should be around 15..20cm over the printer, it should have around 10..15cm diameter and spools should not be too low.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only issue I see is unwinding spools which are too far from the printer because then filament would be unwinded angular but the same issue would be with and without teflon tube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;[edit]&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;Here is a simple change of your design&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/slvWkm.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/slvWkm.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;[edit2]&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;Please also note that you can assure proper angle of unwinding filament by installing small rings (&quot;eyes&quot;) next to spools. These eyes will direct filament out of spool and then filament will turn to your big ring mounted on the printer. This is common solution in textile industry&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RQjybm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RQjybm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1211" LastEditorUserId="1211" LastEditDate="2016-06-14T06:27:23.920" LastActivityDate="2016-06-14T06:27:23.920" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1330" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1328" CreationDate="2016-06-13T10:46:33.743" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, this is feasible. You should constrain the tube at both ends, this prevents the spool from pulling up on the extruder. This approach is known as &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Bl_JPJAhuEo&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;reverse bowden&lt;/a&gt; setup.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastActivityDate="2016-06-13T10:46:33.743" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1331" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1328" CreationDate="2016-06-13T11:11:14.450" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This shouldn't be too much of an issue, as long as:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You guide the filament properly to avoid breakage (at both ends as Tom mentions)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You avoid too much friction between the pulling extruder motor and the spool itself.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You mention that you consider using a 1-2 meter teflon tube to guide the filament. Although this &lt;em&gt;might&lt;/em&gt; work, long teflon tubes will increase the friction from pulling the filament. Furthermore, I really doubt having such a long tube will be beneficial at all; quite on the contrary, I think it could be rather impractical. Most likely, having simple guides at both ends (whether its tube stubs or rings) will suffice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="115" LastActivityDate="2016-06-13T11:11:14.450" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1332" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="921" CreationDate="2016-06-13T13:31:27.100" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In order to try a short answer even though you already found a change to Cura helped the issue. With that additional info we can conclude that your printer per se is working fine. To me, if the plastic is curling up to a ball, it seems that you are either having&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a wrong temperature set&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;wrongly calculated e-steps, volume calculation (filament diameter) or multiplier in the firmware&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;additional first layer parameters are off (height, offset, extrusion)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can try to set the extrusion multiplier just to test if it is a simple miscalculation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="168" LastActivityDate="2016-06-13T13:31:27.100" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1333" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1328" CreationDate="2016-06-13T14:19:41.750" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is somewhat similar to a question I asked a while back. Pay attention to Ryan Carlyle's response in &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/768/filament-guides-drag&quot;&gt;the question I posted&lt;/a&gt;. His post essentially explains various ways that guide tubes may hinder extrusion due to drag. In regards to the length of your guide tubes, ensure that the tube is relatively straight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are holding the filament above the machine, chances are that you wont really need the tubes anyways and the distance between the spool and the extruder won't matter either. The point of tube is to ensure the filament doesn't bind coming from the back of the machine, thus potentially clogging your extruder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;Based on the OP's drawing, I think it would benefit to change the design to drop the tubes all together. The tubes can provide many point of contact and managing so many lines at once may become problematic. So, possibly drop the tubes and intend on not drawing your filament unless they are fed into the extruder. You could install smaller ends of tubes at either end of assembly (one at the storage rack, the other above the extruder) to ensure the filament is being fed/pulled straight. The space between the storage rack and the machine doesn't matter. Here's a basic edit of your design that might be easier to manage. For kicks, here's &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:993473&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;a design I made&lt;/a&gt; for my own machine as a &quot;quick-change&quot; design.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NQXGg.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NQXGg.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="98" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T13:00:58.447" LastActivityDate="2016-06-13T19:43:45.217" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1334" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1335" CreationDate="2016-06-13T18:08:39.310" Score="10" ViewCount="36372" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have this &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1381474&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;GoPro mount for a quadcopter as STL file&lt;/a&gt;. It looks as follows.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qcZOR.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qcZOR.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do I modify it so that it is wider and longer by a few millimeters but the screw holes stay the exact same size? Additionally the angle of the upper surface must stay the same. Please suggest the easiest solution for someone like me who as no idea about CAD software.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The perfect solution for me would be to just import it in Tinkercad and then modify it however I have no idea what the steps are.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2120" LastEditorUserId="2111" LastEditDate="2016-06-15T22:38:54.327" LastActivityDate="2023-05-04T21:02:08.933" Title="What is the easiest way to modify/resize an object inside a STL file?" Tags="|3d-design|software|3d-models|" AnswerCount="8" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1335" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1334" CreationDate="2016-06-13T21:17:25.250" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Many resources are available for modification using 3D CAD (including learning a tool such as sketchup, which is VERY beginner friendly). The easiest and fastest solution to your particular problem may be the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprintmything/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;reddit community &quot;3D Print My Thing&quot;&lt;/a&gt; which was created for EXACTLY this type of situation (help with modelling parts which will be 3D printed.) Another potential useful reddit community is &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.reddit.com/r/3Dmodeling&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;&quot;3D Modelling&quot;&lt;/a&gt; which will have many people who are able to help you with this quadcopter/Go-Pro attachment 3D model.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Third solution: Thingiverse has a customize option for 3D models (including this one). have you explored using this interface to edit the model? This is most likely the easiest DIY solution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2111" LastEditorUserId="115" LastEditDate="2016-06-16T13:29:34.647" LastActivityDate="2016-06-16T13:29:34.647" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1336" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1328" CreationDate="2016-06-13T22:33:41.380" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your idea is actually good, but i would add some edits to it. First of all, to keep your equipment clean, you would like to add little foam rubbers to clean the filament at the entrance of the tubes, to clean out the dust that will be accumulating over the rolls.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another thing that i would recommend is to hang the tubes on a separate support for them and not on the extruder head, as it would add some additional friction to it and can cause the 3d model with additional friction making it distorted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2125" LastEditorUserId="98" LastEditDate="2016-12-06T16:38:33.737" LastActivityDate="2016-12-06T16:38:33.737" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1337" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="83" CreationDate="2016-06-13T22:38:15.230" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I Don't really think that it is possible without hardware modifications, or maybe some small parts that will fit in the bed of the printer all on the same time&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2125" LastActivityDate="2016-06-13T22:38:15.230" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1338" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1286" CreationDate="2016-06-13T22:40:26.650" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You just need to take basic security actions. like fixing all movable parts simple as that &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2125" LastActivityDate="2016-06-13T22:40:26.650" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1339" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1328" CreationDate="2016-06-14T11:56:42.953" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to add to the already great discussion, that this general approach is prone to filament degradation by water intake. That is, if you are using filament for which this is an issue (PLA as the most prominent example).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, your goal is to exchange more quickly, that is without (un-)mounting whole spools each time. Basically you want to have a multi-filament spool holder, if I understand correctly. If you design an enclosed box with a single outlet you could incorporate silica gel inside and a reduced effort to swap the filament. I would still avoid a nice free-hanging spool solution due to the degradation issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="168" LastEditorUserId="168" LastEditDate="2016-12-06T21:25:10.133" LastActivityDate="2016-12-06T21:25:10.133" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1341" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1334" CreationDate="2016-06-14T16:26:37.713" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately, there is no simple method for modifying specific features of an STL. You are pretty much limited to the following actions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Scaling (The entire model along three independent axis)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Breaking the model into parts/chunks&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mirroring or Rotating the object&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Skewing an object (twisting)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even the last action requires a 3D CAD program. I would suggest you develop your own model. OpenSCAD is a free 3D CAD program that works well. If you are comfortable with TinkerCAD, you should be able to easily develop your own version of this mount.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2041" LastActivityDate="2016-06-14T16:26:37.713" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1342" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1292" CreationDate="2016-06-14T16:29:33.750" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;@kamuro provided an excellent answer, so I'll just try to add by playing devil's advocate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Possible things to look out for:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Inappropriate enclosure could result in more temperature differences, resulting in higher rates of warping and delamination. For example, if you do not enclose the top of your machine, then the temperature at the beginning of your print will be potentially different than further into the print.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Post-print delamination/warping. The same can be said for a printer without an enclosure. But if you are too eager to remove the print directly after printing, you run the risk of essentially &quot;air quenching&quot; the part. Instead, let the part sit in the warmer ambient temperature and become fully solid again.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Enclosures are not a &quot;fix-all&quot;. Enclosures are merely a means of reducing variability in your process. As an operator, you should still fine-tune your process by finding the right extruder/HBP temperatures and quality materials to ensure repeatable, quality prints.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;kamuro touched on this a bit, but difficulty performing maintenance. Speaking from experience, removing acrylic panels from a machine not designed to have an enclosure is pretty annoying. However, this could be alleviated with a better design. I chose to bolt my panels to my machine, but a snap design would fair better. Specifically, adjusting my belt tension became very difficult on my Replicator Dual after adding acrylic panels.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Don't make it too hot. I made a rookie mistake after adding an enclosure to my machine by using a space heater in the room next to the printer. The space heater oscillated and occasionally directed the heat at the machine. After a few failed prints, I noticed that the extra ambient heat in the room was causing the ABS arms for my HBP to warp under the heat/weight of the HBP. The enclosure wasn't the root cause, but it helped trap the extra heat inside the machine.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="98" LastEditorUserId="98" LastEditDate="2016-06-14T17:22:13.360" LastActivityDate="2016-06-14T17:22:13.360" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1343" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1080" CreationDate="2016-06-14T16:44:53.120" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;That bitrate is pretty low, which might explain the blockiness (is that a word?).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From &lt;a href=&quot;https://support.google.com/youtube/answer/1722171?hl=en&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;YouTube's upload guidelines&lt;/a&gt;, you are encoding at the minimum recommended bitrate for standard 720P video. Maybe you should boost to 7500K (7.5 Mbps) and see if that helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, it appears that Octopi is merely calling ffmpeg locally and returning the video. The encoding that is being used might be resulting in blockiness. If you have access to the raw photos, you could just dump them into a directory on another machine and generate a video using a less-lossy video codec. Of course, this would only work if the photos you are taking are high quality. Assuming that they are, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.raspberrypi-spy.co.uk/2013/05/capturing-hd-video-with-the-pi-camera-module/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; is a nice resource for producing videos from image sequences in ffmpeg.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;P.S. Alternatively, if you prefer a lightweight video tool with a GUI, you could use &lt;a href=&quot;https://imagej.nih.gov/ij/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;ImageJ&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2041" LastActivityDate="2016-06-14T16:44:53.120" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1344" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22" CreationDate="2016-06-15T16:16:05.850" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to add the following to the already direct and very good answer of @Dani Epstein. It does not answer your question, but hopefully may help many people who are reading the question when choosing between the two materials.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Acrylic is less stable and will probably wear off faster than a well-built MDF frame for a 3D printer! I will address the points separately.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;An MDF frame has much(!) more mass than acrylic, which will reduce vibrations immediately. Almost more important, a box frame, as typical for the Prusa i3 for example, stabilizes itself intrinsically more by its 'redundant wall' design (don't beat me up over the wording here, I didn't find a better way to describe the property that results from the towers.)&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Compare these two images taken from &lt;a href=&quot;http://reprap.org/wiki/Prusa_i3&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;reprap wiki Prusa i3&lt;/a&gt;:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/h4rDp.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/h4rDp.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;boxframe (from reprap-wiki)&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PkWVF.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PkWVF.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;metal frame (from reprap-wiki)&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;You will probably not find an acrylic frame with this design. Shear stress as produced by the moving carriages, as well as z-wobble from the rods should theoretically be much less.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The acrylic might not wear by 'natural causes' since it is not a biologic material as wood is, but it will wear much faster due to handling the material, maintenance and human errors. The material is very brittle. You can find lots of reports on the web where the frame cracked or broke during setup. Here is my favorite example from someone with a lot of experience (1:20-2:30): &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wkkVk8c8XoU&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wkkVk8c8XoU&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Acrylic is a bad choice in terms of its mechanical properties: It is soft (I found low tensile strength as a number to compare in the given database), has lots of thermal expansion (5 times higher than stainless steel) and melts at 160 C (so beware of anything touching your hotend). Feel free to compare it to other materials here (no MDF or plywood in that database, though ;-) ): &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.goodfellow.com/E/Polymethylmethacrylate.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.goodfellow.com/E/Polymethylmethacrylate.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This altogether makes acrylic a very bad choice for a 3d printer frame material in my opinion. Choose MDF or plywood, you can make it look cool by painting it, too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="168" LastActivityDate="2016-06-15T16:16:05.850" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1345" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-15T19:42:29.800" Score="8" ViewCount="12530" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is it possible to connect two pieces of 1.75 mm filament end to end, with no change in width? I am asking the question because I am interested in creating a multi-filament feeder to a single extruder, and I am curious about the process of changing filament while the 3-d printer extruder continues uninterrupted. My current best-guess at the optimal solution is to someone 'cut' one end of the filament and 'melt' it to the end of another filament.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2111" LastActivityDate="2017-07-19T12:57:47.517" Title="How to connect filament end-to-end?" Tags="|filament|extruder|extrusion|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1346" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1345" CreationDate="2016-06-15T20:05:06.527" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;You'd have to ensure that the joining portion of the two filaments do not &quot;bloom&quot; or increase in diameter, which would happen if unconstrained at the melting and joining time. Alignment is also critical, otherwise you have a varying diameter from one color to the next at the point of join.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's an item on ebay which is precision drilled and has precision machined mating surfaces to ensure alignment of the filament. The filament is extended through the two components, heated (in the case of the video, with a match) and the two metal parts are pushed together. The joining of the metal parts also cuts away the excess bulge of the melted filament, ensuring correct diameter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the case of the above item, the joining devices have to be threaded with the filament prior to the joining process and then have to be threaded off the filament by pushing them the entire length of the filament.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This would be okay if one were joining short lengths only. Consider how much fun it isn't to have to slide these two pieces over an entire full spool of filament.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A split device which would enable one to un-latch or otherwise open a clamshell to release the filament would require much more challenging machining to achieve the necessary precision, which is probably why we don't see such a product.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastActivityDate="2016-06-15T20:05:06.527" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1347" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1345" CreationDate="2016-06-15T20:38:37.077" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is a device which can do what fred_dot_u describes in his otherwise explanatorily good answer: the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.i3dinno.com/easywelder-en-p186486.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;easywelder&lt;/a&gt;, made by I3D Inno.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It fixes the filament in a separate part so that the faces are adjoined perpendicularly and then heats the joint electrically with a device that at first sight reminds me of a hair straightening iron.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am not sure about the joint quality this machine produces, but I am skeptical whether the it is good enough for high accuracy 3d printing. Especially if you take the history of the device into account (he wanted to create a custom O-ring from Ninjaflex), which the inventor shortly describes on this instructable: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.instructables.com/id/Welding-tool-for-plastic-filaments&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.instructables.com/id/Welding-tool-for-plastic-filaments&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="168" LastActivityDate="2016-06-15T20:38:37.077" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1348" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1103" CreationDate="2016-06-15T21:03:27.097" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am an official Wanhao Distributor&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By experience I can recommend you to print with this settings:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Extruder 230 °C &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Heated Bed 65 °C&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Have a glass surface&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use hairspray over the glass&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Continue to enclose the printer or at least put it where there is almost no wind&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Print at 45 mm/s&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that this settings vary a lot depending on humidity and other factors related to where you are printing, so it would be very useful to know where in the globe are you experimenting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also note that humidity is very very bad for 3D Printing Filaments so keep them sealed while not using them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please do  comment if you have any more doubts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1923" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-07-28T23:58:27.843" LastActivityDate="2018-07-28T23:58:27.843" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="1349" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1334" CreationDate="2016-06-16T13:15:16.837" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well. I would cut it into two STLs, using netfabb slice / split tool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;in 123d I would fill in the hole with the merge union (with a cylinder object), scale it, and either keep it unfilled and drill it, or do a subtraction union on where you want the holes. (again with a cylinder)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Scaling otherwise you need the original model and solidworks.. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Split in 2, scale the piece you want and re-add the other half is probably the best way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2146" LastActivityDate="2016-06-16T13:15:16.837" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1350" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="214" CreationDate="2016-06-16T13:21:14.590" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;First, you don't.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To reduce the likelyhood, use good plastics without contaminations. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do not over heat the plastic, causes faster carbon build up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Buy hand drills, mini drills to clear it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't switch materials around a lot. Low temp plastic residue will cook when you switch to high temp plastic. Again carbon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Last will come to your extruder is self. Use a hardened extruder tip, less likely to wear. All metal should help a lot too, PTEF tubes often get baked in a jam situation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or do what I do. I use a giant 1mm nozzle. I have printed at least 20 lbs of plastic on the same nozzle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other solutions say put oil etc.. I will just say that is not a great idea. First you will have terrible bed adhesion, second it just seems wrong. Not to mention it will be out of the extruder within one KG?. The only time its okay to use oil is if you have a bowden setup.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2146" LastActivityDate="2016-06-16T13:21:14.590" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1351" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1292" CreationDate="2016-06-16T13:30:21.107" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;People add a &quot;passive heated chamber&quot; when they are printing in ABS. However I personally think the best reason to have a custom chamber is so you can add an air filter. Adding an air filter will reduce your exposure to fine air particulates. It is generally considered a bad idea to breath in particles from plastic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For PLA you will not want an air chamber. If you want to do an air scrubber they you will need air input to avoid the heat chamber from getting hot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On that note as we see in the z18, PLA can benefit from an Active heat chamber, but you will have to figure out what the optimal temp is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2146" LastActivityDate="2016-06-16T13:30:21.107" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1352" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1119" CreationDate="2016-06-16T13:35:27.530" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use glue Sticks from Staples. It works. Anything else is over thinking :-)&#xA;I use it daily on PLA and ABS on 3 out of 5 printers. Printed 5 lbs this week in plastic so far.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Following my flashforge creator pros use this amazing mat, that even after months of use still work great (so long as I clean it with alcohol every so)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some use hairspray. Tried it, mix results, got sick of breathing the stuff in. Also it wont work on both plastics as gluesticks do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2146" LastEditorUserId="2146" LastEditDate="2016-06-16T21:16:33.153" LastActivityDate="2016-06-16T21:16:33.153" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1353" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1151" CreationDate="2016-06-16T13:39:02.720" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Oh yeah my printer had that. Specifically 2 Flash Forge Creator Pros, Replace the thermal couple. Done. Really fragile thermal couples they use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit I see you tried shorting the TC. Wouldn't shorting the TC, produce the same error?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2146" LastActivityDate="2016-06-16T13:39:02.720" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1354" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="61" CreationDate="2016-06-16T13:46:01.237" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think you answered your question in your statement. Lulzbot and ABS. Lulz does not have an enclosure. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Try using PLA for an open air system. Or build an enclosure. Following you can add glue or hairspray.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I promise you, with any open air printer, you will face this problem. I only use ABS on my FFCPs. Even with their passive heat chambers I plan to move to PLA for all my printers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2146" LastActivityDate="2016-06-16T13:46:01.237" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1355" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1369" CreationDate="2016-06-16T16:00:37.283" Score="13" ViewCount="1547" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is it possible to print toothbrush bristles using a common FDM 3D printer? I am particularly interested in the width of bristles, closeness together of each bristle, and the flexibility of each particular bristle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2111" LastEditorUserId="5686" LastEditDate="2017-03-06T15:10:26.060" LastActivityDate="2017-03-06T15:10:26.060" Title="Can toothbrush bristles be printed?" Tags="|filament|3d-models|fdm|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1356" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1258" CreationDate="2016-06-16T18:41:13.457" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The main consideration when building the body/frame of a 3D printer is the stiffness.  The stiffer the material, the less the frame will deform under load, and the more accurate and repeatable your results will be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;UHMW has a Tensile Modulus of Elasticity around 120,000 psi (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.polytechindustrial.com/products/plastic-stock-shapes/uhmw-polyethylene&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.polytechindustrial.com/products/plastic-stock-shapes/uhmw-polyethylene&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Aluminium has a Modulus of Elasticity around 10,000,000 psi (Mott, Applied Strength of Materials, 5th Edition, depends on the specific alloy)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Aluminium is around 100 times stiffer than UHMW.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2168" LastActivityDate="2016-06-16T18:41:13.457" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1357" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1364" CreationDate="2016-06-16T19:58:12.030" Score="5" ViewCount="235" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.iboxprinters.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;iBox Nano&lt;/a&gt; is the smallest public-production-available 3d Resin printer (and the cheapest so far), I assume it has a huge size limitation. So far I've only seen pictures of its outputs that are &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.iboxprinters.com/ibox-nano-1/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;miniature things&lt;/a&gt;. I've never tried it nor have I seen it in action in person so I'd like to be sure. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;For example&lt;/strong&gt;, my 3D models are of the size of beads to figurines to a standard sized pencil cup holder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;I want to know in inches or millimeters the dimension (width, length, height) of the biggest possible object the iBox Nano can print.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="197" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2018-09-16T12:26:16.687" LastActivityDate="2018-09-16T12:26:16.687" Title="What is the biggest size of an object that iBox Nano can print?" Tags="|ibox-nano|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="1358" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1357" CreationDate="2016-06-16T20:01:30.640" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;From their website I found a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.iboxprinters.com/pages.php?pageid=17&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;comparison between 300 microns down to 50 microns print quality&lt;/a&gt;. My answer would be somewhere around this range.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2111" LastActivityDate="2016-06-16T20:01:30.640" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1359" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1360" CreationDate="2016-06-16T20:03:39.133" Score="3" ViewCount="102" Body="&lt;p&gt;How to check leveling of printer bed ? &#xA;What should be ideal values on x,y and z to ensure printer bed is flat and there is no angle between plane of nozzle and plane of printer bed ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2169" LastActivityDate="2016-06-16T20:55:08.617" Title="CubePro 3D Printer" Tags="|calibration|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1360" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1359" CreationDate="2016-06-16T20:55:08.617" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The CubePro printer appears to have a comprehensive leveling system built into the menu. The direct instructions for this process can be found here:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://infocenter.3dsystems.com/cubepro/user-guide/maintenance/calibrating-z-gap-and-print-pad-level&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;CubePro Calibration&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would suggest that &quot;ideal values&quot; are those created by the calibration process that confirms the necessary settings for a good print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastActivityDate="2016-06-16T20:55:08.617" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1361" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1365" CreationDate="2016-06-17T00:00:34.130" Score="17" ViewCount="14296" Body="&lt;p&gt;What are the differences, and pros &amp;amp; cons, between 3D printers with varying layouts for moving head vs. moving build plate?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Example layouts would include:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;X Head; YZ Bed;  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;XY Head; Z Bed;   &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;XYZ Head;  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;etc.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In particular, what are their respective strengths, weaknesses, specializations, maintenance considerations, etc.?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2172" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2016-11-26T17:53:12.143" LastActivityDate="2018-01-05T02:15:01.540" Title="Differences between moving build plate vs. extruder" Tags="|print-quality|mechanics|build-plate|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1362" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-17T07:13:19.360" Score="11" ViewCount="59259" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a (HIC) version of the Prusa i3. I have recently installed the E3D v6 hotend and titan extruder. After fixing some other issues, I noticed that there is no filament being extruded. In addition, the gear looked like it was going in the wrong direction. How can I fix this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="635" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2020-12-21T18:03:25.887" LastActivityDate="2020-12-21T18:03:25.887" Title="Extruder is running backwards?" Tags="|prusa-i3|extruder|e3d-v6|e3d-titan|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="1363" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1362" CreationDate="2016-06-17T07:39:19.907" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can either flip the connector for the motor around (i.e. plug it in backwards) or (if you are using Marlin firmware) look for the following line in configuration.h:  (using the Arduino editor open the Marlin file For your 3D Printer,  one of the tabs is labelled &quot;configuration.h&quot; click on that tab to bring it to the front for editing.  use the Edit, Find and put E0 in the find box, click find.  When you find the line below&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#define INVERT_E0_DIR false&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;change &lt;code&gt;false&lt;/code&gt; to &lt;code&gt;true&lt;/code&gt; (or vice-versa). Note that if you go for the connector-flipping route, make sure that you only do this when the printer is turned off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-12-10T19:04:20.963" LastActivityDate="2017-12-10T19:04:20.963" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1364" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1357" CreationDate="2016-06-17T07:55:21.977" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;On their &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.iboxprinters.com/ibox-nano-1/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;website&lt;/a&gt;, I found the following picture, which states a build area of 40 mm x 20 mm x 90 mm (1.57&quot; x 0,79&quot; x 3.54&quot;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TYxa8.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;iBox Nano 3D printer specifications&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TYxa8.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;iBox Nano 3D printer specifications&quot; title=&quot;iBox Nano 3D printer specifications&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="168" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-08-01T06:04:36.093" LastActivityDate="2018-08-01T06:04:36.093" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="1365" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1361" CreationDate="2016-06-17T08:20:12.627" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;Without going into too much detail, since this is a very exhaustive topic, I'll write some pro's of each down from the top of my head:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cartesian XZ hotend, Y bed (eg. Prusa Mendel):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;easy to build (relatively)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;easy to maintain&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;easy to modify&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;understandable kinematics&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;with the right frame, no x-y-z orthogonality (90 degree angles) needs to be adjusted&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;affordable&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;bad for timelapse recordings&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;print quality will theoretically always be inferior at the same speeds and accelerations to kinematics that have less mass to move (heavy printbeds will lead to ghosting)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;z-wobble is only existent in this approach&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;big build-plates are no option for this design (last feasible size might be 20x30 cm)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cartesian XY hotend, Z bed (core-XY, sparkcube, Ultimaker, Makerbot)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;less mass to be moved -&gt; faster print speeds possible&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;almost no size limitaions&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;construction is easy to enclose in most models due to the cubic frame&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;looks almost always professional&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;enclosure can be hard to modify due to constraints in space&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;XYZ hotend (Delta bots)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;master of circles&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;less mass to be moved -&gt; faster print speeds possible&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;impressive to watch&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;more load on the processing unit due to more complicated kinematics (32 bit needed for fast print speeds and responsive control with display)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;kinematics not easily understandable&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;error-cause search can be very complicated&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;more accurate in the center than on the outer limits due to the kinematic approach&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The list is for sure not complete, and as a major disclaimer: print quality will always, with every approach, depend more on the setup and calibration of the printer than on the model. There are people around that produce great prints from an acrylic frame cartesian printer and lots of people that produce mediocre results with expensive printers in fancy designs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I will add some links to the list items when I find the time, for now you have to believe me. I am highly appreciating corrections and additions!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="168" LastActivityDate="2016-06-17T08:20:12.627" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1366" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1316" CreationDate="2016-06-17T09:05:30.547" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You might have a case of clogged nozzle. You can check this easily by lifting the Z axis and running the extrusion motor. If it's grinding on filament or you notice extruded plastic is curling or going out slow, it's probably partial or total clog.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have had the latter variant happen to myself recently, with the same symptoms as yours. Fixing it involved disassembly of the hotend and cleaning the clog manually using jet lighter (to heat up the nozzle) and guitar string to pull out clogged PLA.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might have some other options available:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Try pushing the filament through hotend by hand, it might clear the clog.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Other variant I've heard of is heating up the extruder to 130-150°C (PLA) and just yanking out the filament, and hopefully clog along with it. I wouldn't recommend this if you don't know what you're doing, as it might damage the printer.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my case things that were causing the clog were the big retraction distance and temperature being set too high.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2177" LastEditorUserId="2177" LastEditDate="2016-06-17T10:45:03.340" LastActivityDate="2016-06-17T10:45:03.340" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1367" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1361" CreationDate="2016-06-17T12:05:17.623" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think this is simple, breaking it into simple parts... It is much easier to calibrate a machine where each axis does one thing. For instance, the Ultimaker; one of the few XY-on-the-same-axis printers... It has such a crazy complicated pulley system. If one thing gets out of whack, everything will start binding. Thankfully this doesn't happen as they did a good job, but it comes at a price. All the double pulleys and double rods - that costs money.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However if you break it into smaller bits then less will go wrong. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I upgraded my MendelMax 1.5 to use a PBC linear solid slide for the X axis, it instantly solved all my issues with the rods binding (two rods into one big slide).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To quote my coworker,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;It's like balancing a stool. Is it easier to balance a 4 legged stool or a 3?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Following from that, there is probably a good hour's worth of mechanical engineering information that can be said in regards to the linear motion itself. I would rather calibrate one axis at at time, and not worry about weird behavior caused by a XYZ head.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2146" LastEditorUserId="854" LastEditDate="2016-11-26T17:56:23.407" LastActivityDate="2016-11-26T17:56:23.407" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1368" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1362" CreationDate="2016-06-17T12:08:46.063" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Reverse the plug for the motor on the board. Or do firmware. Doesn't matter. *** assuming you have ramps and a standard stepper.. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2146" LastActivityDate="2016-06-17T12:08:46.063" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1369" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1355" CreationDate="2016-06-17T12:11:03.823" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Actually last year a group did use a normal FDM printer to 3d print hair, brushed, etc. See the press release from Carnegie Mellon University&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.engadget.com/2015/10/29/3d-printing-hair-is-as-easy-as-using-a-hot-glue-gun/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.engadget.com/2015/10/29/3d-printing-hair-is-as-easy-as-using-a-hot-glue-gun/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://technabob.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2015/11/3d_printed_hair_by_Gierad_Laput_Xiang_Chen_Chris_Harrison_1.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://technabob.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2015/11/3d_printed_hair_by_Gierad_Laput_Xiang_Chen_Chris_Harrison_1.jpg&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said as far as I know you will not have access to this process, and is probably under a mountain of patents and other innovation killers. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now how to do this outside of fancy software.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a FDM printer the smallest nozzle I ever got was 0.1mm, it jammed instantly. One could print rows at this precision.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now we have to move to something more advanced, such as DLP. Not the materials you want, but closer to the size you want. a formlabs can print at 25 microns. Which as a hair is 17 microns, you are &quot;close enough&quot; .. but a resin would be brittle and break. They do have other materials such as flexibles, but I am not familiar with them enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also just going to mention. Tiny slivers of plastic is more likely to cut you than comb you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2146" LastEditorUserId="2146" LastEditDate="2016-06-20T05:34:20.200" LastActivityDate="2016-06-20T05:34:20.200" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1370" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1355" CreationDate="2016-06-17T15:47:28.420" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;At this point, an FDM printer probably wouldn't produce good results if you intend on printing the same design as current toothbrushes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Each strand is about 0.007&quot; in diameter which is slightly larger than the typical minimum diameter that can possibly be extruded. This doesn't leave much room to provide a well enough surface between layers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With features this small you might run into issues with resolution and accuracy of the machine. The resolution may determine how well the strands are printed separately. The accuracy may determine how well each layer print over each other. If your machines accuracy is about 0.0005&quot;, then expect your layers to have run-out of about 0.0005&quot;-0.001&quot; on a 0.007&quot; size feature. I'm also not accounting for how well the machine is maintained/tuned, which could detriment both resolution and accuracy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, it's possible on an FDM, but not probable at this time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To help your odds:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Slow your feed rate way down (maybe 30-40mm/s)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Watch over and under extrusion. It will be more evident on smaller features like this. It either will look like a big blob or pretty much nothing. You should have settings in your slicer to help compensate.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Clean your extruder and drive gear and tune the tension on filament in the extruder assembly.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use quality filament! If the filament is out of round, then over/under extrusion will occur.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Be mindful of any health organization requirements on the type of materials you're allowed to use for something that goes in your mouth. The same logic goes for ensuring you don't print the bristles in something that can mold. &lt;strike&gt;I believe nylon is safe, at least in the US, but don't quote me on this.&lt;/strike&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="98" LastEditorUserId="98" LastEditDate="2016-06-20T14:00:15.690" LastActivityDate="2016-06-20T14:00:15.690" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1371" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1374" CreationDate="2016-06-17T19:28:37.910" Score="4" ViewCount="4518" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am using Slic3r to generate the GCode for my Marlin-based printer. For some reason with increasing height my print starts to get messed up. On another part it starts to act like this when there are small parts. Is this related to my Slic3r settings, maybe to much filament being extruded or is this due to something else?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any help is highly appreciated and I can provide more pictures of messed up parts or slic3r config if necessary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jTyk1.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jTyk1.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;The filament is completely messed up&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/J4Thr.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/J4Thr.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Another picture of the messed up print&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2184" LastEditorUserId="2184" LastEditDate="2016-06-17T21:36:27.113" LastActivityDate="2016-06-18T08:27:31.693" Title="Why is my print getting messed up mid-print?" Tags="|filament|pla|print-quality|slic3r|marlin|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1372" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-17T20:06:55.133" Score="3" ViewCount="117" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an HE3D Prusa XI3 that I have assembled but the z axis motors aren't functioning properly, they will whine instead of turn. They will turn if I use Z babystepping or position changes but will not when doing a fast position changes or in normal use&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2183" LastActivityDate="2016-06-19T07:47:00.810" Title="HE3D Prusa Z-Axis Motor Error" Tags="|prusa-i3|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1373" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1377" CreationDate="2016-06-17T21:47:42.837" Score="6" ViewCount="5205" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm using a CraftBot original to print PLA, but some of the filament has become stuck in the teeth of the &lt;a href=&quot;https://craftunique.com/item/craftbot-extruder-gear&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;extruder gear&lt;/a&gt; on its way into the hot end.  I'm having issues with the gear becoming stuck and &quot;clicking&quot; instead of turning, and I suspect it is because of the clogged teeth.  I haven't changed materials in a long time.  I've cleared several print head clogs, but each time the gear gets back around to the one spot, it seems to get stuck again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any good ways to clean this gear?  I was thinking of putting it in a toaster oven and trying to melt the PLA off it, ideally without setting my house on fire in the process.  Anyone have better ideas?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1400" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2018-09-16T12:25:03.707" LastActivityDate="2018-09-16T12:25:03.707" Title="Good methods to clean extruder gear (hobbed) from filament pieces?" Tags="|filament|extruder|drive-gear|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1374" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1371" CreationDate="2016-06-17T21:49:46.820" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;To me, this looks like a combination of bad filament, high temperature and/or fast speeds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Too high extrusion temperature will make difficult to let each layer cool enough before the next layer begins. This is why you see the poor results on the smaller areas of the print in your second photo.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you're using bad filament (out of round, non-virgin, or poorly stored filament) you might see a series of over/under extrusion areas or smoke from moisture in the filament.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Slowing down your feed rates can be tricky if your extrusion temps are too high. By slowing down, you're allowing layers to cool down a little bit more and solidify. If your previous layers are still relatively molten, you'll notice that the new layer of filament will adhere to it and potentially drag the previous layers as the nozzle continues to move. You'll see the results of this in the top-arc layers with an uneven curvature.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="98" LastActivityDate="2016-06-17T21:49:46.820" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1375" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1373" CreationDate="2016-06-17T22:07:02.340" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are able to remove the gear, as I suspect you can, a useful tool is the file card. It resembles a flat hair brush but the bristles are short wire, very stiff. In traditional use, it removes metal shavings from conventional metal files. It will easily remove plastic from between the gear teeth. If you are unable to remove the gear, but can access a portion of the exposed teeth, a suitably named dental pick can remove slowly the clogged material.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cooking the gear may not cause a fire, but could carbonize the plastic onto the teeth, perhaps creating a greater problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastActivityDate="2016-06-17T22:07:02.340" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1376" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1215" CreationDate="2016-06-17T23:21:51.370" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've had that issue on my 3D printing shop. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That kind of problem usually happens when the extruder driving gear gets worn out. This makes the extruder loose it's grip on the filament and diminishes the flow of the extrusion, resulting on the prints you show on your photo.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on the time you have with your printer and the use you give it the gear will get worn out between 8 to 12 months and you will have to change it to avoid the flow issues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I recommend you to open the extruder and check if the driving gear is worn so that you can order a new one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1923" LastActivityDate="2016-06-17T23:21:51.370" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1377" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1373" CreationDate="2016-06-17T23:46:34.767" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I mostly use a tooth brush for that kind of problem&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2186" LastActivityDate="2016-06-17T23:46:34.767" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1378" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1371" CreationDate="2016-06-17T23:51:25.060" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;For me, this looks like a cooling problem. Try to print this part 2-4 times in one print and get sure your fan is cooling all the time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is a known problem, if the layers get smaller, that they do not have time to cool down. So you're printing on a wobbling bunch of still soft layers, which result in what you showed on the photo.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my opinion, this has nothing to do with the filamen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2186" LastActivityDate="2016-06-17T23:51:25.060" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1379" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1380" CreationDate="2016-06-18T04:11:16.817" Score="2" ViewCount="138" Body="&lt;p&gt;I noticed 3Dsystems has Multi Jet 3D printing where wax is used provide support and give users with high resolution 3D printed objects. I was wondering if there were cheaper and smaller Multi Jet 3D printing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can Form 1+ from FormLabs be considered to do the same job with resin?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2176" LastActivityDate="2016-06-18T07:37:40.210" Title="What are some cheaper versions of Multi Jet 3D printing?" Tags="|desktop-printer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1380" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1379" CreationDate="2016-06-18T07:37:40.210" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Objet by Stratasys is a comparable technology (they call it PolyJet). SolidScape is also somewhat comparable (they also use jetting).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The FormLabs printers are not comparable. They use a completely different process, which can only print in one material. With jetting, you can mix different materials in the same part.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastActivityDate="2016-06-18T07:37:40.210" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1381" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1371" CreationDate="2016-06-18T08:27:31.693" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;This can happen if your filament is having to be pulled off the spool and slipping in the extruder. Check if slippage is happening at the extruder, perhaps see if results change by providing some hand powered help.  I have seen this with some glossy PLA I have used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2187" LastActivityDate="2016-06-18T08:27:31.693" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1382" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1373" CreationDate="2016-06-18T08:30:55.807" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use an air bulb to clean dust out of teeth, but the clicking sounds like the stepper has too much mechanical load so i am guessing there is something solid stuck at that point. Poke it off with something sharp.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2187" LastActivityDate="2016-06-18T08:30:55.807" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1383" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1482" CreationDate="2016-06-18T09:54:45.630" Score="9" ViewCount="2429" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there any simple way of creating tappered thread in OpenSCAD? I need something like 10 mm in diameter at the end, 9 at the top and the height of 10 mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2189" LastActivityDate="2016-07-05T04:51:34.380" Title="How to create tappered thread in OpenSCAD?" Tags="|3d-design|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1384" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1383" CreationDate="2016-06-18T15:00:00.997" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If your math and OpenSCAD skills are superior to mine, you may be able to make use of the OpenSCAD Metric Nut, Bolt &amp;amp; Threads Library located here:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youmagine.com/designs/openscad-metric-nut-bolt-threads-library&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;OpenSCAD Metric Nut, Bolt &amp;amp; Threads Library&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It uses various means to generate polygons about a radius and includes the formulae for partial revolutions. It is presumed in the design that the center of rotation for the generated polygons is constant. I looked over the code for outside thread and could easily determine the radius references.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With proper coding, you could generate a variable radius based on the height of the cylinder at a specific point and achieve the tapered effect you require. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I expect that you'd have to reduce your desired radius by a fraction, say 0.05 mm in order to embed the thread forming polygons within your tapered cylinder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you aren't a strong coder, disregard this answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastActivityDate="2016-06-18T15:00:00.997" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1385" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1372" CreationDate="2016-06-19T07:47:00.810" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You are probably driving the motors with insufficient current. Try increasing the motor current, by adjusting the potentiometer on the respective stepper driver. Turn it clockwise until your motors stop skipping steps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastActivityDate="2016-06-19T07:47:00.810" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1389" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1401" CreationDate="2016-06-19T18:21:47.690" Score="4" ViewCount="1038" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an option to purchase a hobby multi-purpose device (lathe/mill/drill/grinder/cutter) which is manually controlled, but easily converted for driving by stepper motors (all 3 axis are controlled by turning knobs that can be replaced by gears, with convenient mount to couple each to a stepper motor). I have the right motors and can easily obtain drivers for them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7zCMv.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7zCMv.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;pic of various configurations of the machine&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That is the way to overcome the worst problem of converting Prusa to CNC: the flimsy mechanics not able to withstand stress and vibrations of machining. Then I can connect the drivers to the 3 axis of Prusa's electronics, optionally connect some driver of the spindle to the extruder output (or just control it manually), and it seems the hardware side of the device is done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem is the rest - adapting the software. RepRap family of 3D printers being open source means their software and hardware &lt;em&gt;can&lt;/em&gt; be adapted. It's only a matter of &lt;em&gt;how hard&lt;/em&gt; it is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone have any experience in that direction? What would such conversion involve? Just recalibration to the new gear/leadscrew ratios, or something more involved, like editing the sources to get rid of all the temperature safeguards and the likes?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2206" LastEditorUserId="2206" LastEditDate="2016-06-20T07:50:23.450" LastActivityDate="2016-06-24T17:39:07.973" Title="How much work would be converting Prusa firmware/software for CNC use?" Tags="|electronics|mechanics|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1390" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1389" CreationDate="2016-06-19T23:31:06.383" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I haven't done this myself. But the temperature safeguards only apply to the 4th, the E axis for the filament. So configuring the right steps per mm would get you started.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The question is more what do you want to do with it and where do you get the G-Code to do that. You can not use a slicer to generate the G-Code for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But there is software for PCB Milling out there that should work with the configured Firmware.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="204" LastActivityDate="2016-06-19T23:31:06.383" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1391" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1355" CreationDate="2016-06-20T04:48:07.547" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have had a go at doing something for a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:552770&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;christmass tree&lt;/a&gt; using a drop loop technique. You could use the same method or somthing similar to try and create something that looks like toothbrush bristles, but I don't think you would want to try cleaning your teeth with it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1476" LastActivityDate="2016-06-20T04:48:07.547" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1392" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1244" CreationDate="2016-06-20T05:00:48.573" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I haven't got a printer with a heated bed so have only tested this on PLA but I have found editing the G code so the printer cools the nozzle down and then heats it up again gives the raft enough time to cool down so that it peels off easier when the print is finished. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1476" LastActivityDate="2016-06-20T05:00:48.573" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1393" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1345" CreationDate="2016-06-20T05:12:58.353" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I haven't tried this but it is something I have thought about. The simplest way to try this that I could think of was to try cutting the ends flat and then using a soldering iron or just the printers printing nozzle to melt the ends and then quickly press them together, then you could sand the filamelt to try and clean up the join. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think what would work better than trying to get the width perfect would be to make sure your printer is doing infill when it hits the join so over or under extrusion wont matter as much or have the printer move to the side of the print and extrude in thin air while getting past the join. I have done this when swapping filaments during a print by pausing the printer, and changing the filament.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1476" LastActivityDate="2016-06-20T05:12:58.353" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1394" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1389" CreationDate="2016-06-20T15:33:19.177" Score="3" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Disclaimer&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Questions about other machines is still in kind of a grey area right now &lt;sup&gt;06/2016&lt;/sup&gt; and your question is, in my opinion, a bit too broad. However, I think it's a great topic to perhaps help direct the scope of this community.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;The lowdown&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;3D printers, CNC Mills, CNC Lathes, CNC Routers, and Lasers are all very different! There are certainly areas where each of these may overlap, but the methodology is very different overall.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Software is not always interchangeable across machines (even within the same machine type) due to hardware requirements/communication.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hardware is not always interchangeable across machines (even within the same machine type) due to design/scope of the purpose of the machine.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Things to consider&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sub&gt;(In a nut-shell)&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;3D Printers&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Hardware&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Minimal speed/torque requirements compared to subtractive machine tools.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Good designs focus on temperature control via enclosures and/or electronics.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;(Typically) uses heat block/nozzle/stepper motor to control material size/flow.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Software&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Emphasis on &amp;quot;plug-n-play&amp;quot; UI/UX&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Conceptually easier to generate tool paths. STL's provide outlines and software fills in the blanks like a coloring book.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Focus is on understanding material properties and temperature variability.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Common Variability&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Material quality/shape&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Environment temperature&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;CNC Mills/Routers/Lathes&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Hardware&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Maximum speed/torque requirements.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Good designs focus on rigid designs and handling harmonics.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tighter tolerance components to ensure mechanical repeatability.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Relies on cutting tool size/shape to control material size/flow.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Software&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Requires more manual input (typically) to account for where its tool is located. The mathematics heavily depend on accurate dimensions for the cutting tools, otherwise you could damage your part or the machine.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Good software allows many different &amp;quot;canned&amp;quot; tool paths for efficiency, tool types, and achieving desired surface finish.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Focus is on variability in cutting tool and speeds/feeds (as recommended by cutting tool suppliers for materials)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Common Variability&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Material shape/hardness&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cutting tool shape/hardness&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cutting tool path&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Lasers&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Hardware&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Minimal speed/torque requirements.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Good designs focus on consistent beam quality and spot focus, which is relative to constant power.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Uses focusing lens (sets spot size) to control material size.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Software&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Emphasis on &amp;quot;plug-n-play&amp;quot; UI/UX and interoperability.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Dimensions are easier to achieve as less variability in the process compared to 3D printing/machining.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Focus is on laser power (typically for material type and depth).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Common Variability&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Laser type&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Spot size&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Power supply&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Summary&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Overall there are many, very different variables to consider between these technologies. I only focused on variables you might see out of a hobbyist-style machine and if you've operated any of these you'll know that there are many more variables that pop up for any of these machines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, do not expect such a plug-n-play solution as each machine requires quality construction of its &lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;hardware&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt;, the ability to handle the variability of the process in its &lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;software&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt;, and, above all, an &lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;operator&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt; that understands the correlation and balance of these components.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All of that being said, there are some machines that seem to be tailored to this such as the machine by &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.diyouware.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Diyouware&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;https://zmorph3d.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;ZMorph&lt;/a&gt; &lt;sub&gt;(No affiliation, just examples)&lt;/sub&gt;. However, notice that they have created their own software to meet a lot of these communication requirements.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;I forgot to mention the fact that a kink in creating a interchangeable machine is the control interface. The controller converts the &amp;quot;software speak&amp;quot; into an easily parsed series of functions (typically G-Code) for the small computer to process its predetermined hardware processes. Ie, The slicer or CAM software determines that a layer of a circle be 3D printed, milled, routered, or lasered, so the controller should &lt;strong&gt;G02I2&lt;/strong&gt; which could parse to &lt;sub&gt;(For all intents and purposes in javascript, not a practical language)&lt;/sub&gt; &lt;code&gt;CWCircularInterpolation(2,null,null,null,null,null)&lt;/code&gt; and run as:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;function CWCircularInterpolation(i,j,k,x,y,z){&#xA; //Some code to take current position and command to create a canned circle path&#xA;}&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The point is that the software needs to handle the conditions and constraints of a different machining process and provide a well-equipped machine with the right commands. There are a lot of &lt;em&gt;different&lt;/em&gt; things to consider in attempting to combine these machining techniques into a single machine and get quality results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="98" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:29:41.667" LastActivityDate="2016-06-24T17:39:07.973" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1395" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1407" CreationDate="2016-06-20T20:13:11.347" Score="3" ViewCount="111" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am trying to print model for Prosthetic Hand &#xA;(File Here: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:596966&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:596966&lt;/a&gt;) using Tinkerine 3D Printer. It went smooth for first hour and after that it started messing up(attached image).&#xA;I checked the leveling of plate and it was fine. Also, the nozzle didn't get clogged anywhere. Can anyone suggest, what could be the reason for this or what should be inspected in order to overcome this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Expected Result&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/g8RBym.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/g8RBym.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Actual Result&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uufepm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uufepm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2169" LastEditorUserId="98" LastEditDate="2016-06-22T15:18:22.587" LastActivityDate="2016-06-22T15:18:22.587" Title="Tinkerine 3D Printer" Tags="|print-quality|slicing|g-code|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1396" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1309" CreationDate="2016-06-21T02:55:25.110" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm assuming you actually want to &lt;em&gt;build&lt;/em&gt; Cura, rather than simply install Cura. If you instead want to install Cura, you can try &lt;code&gt;sudo apt-get install cura-engine&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;The following instructions were tested on my own Debian 8 (Jessie) distribution; they should be mostly, if not entirely, the same, for Ubuntu. Note that I &lt;strong&gt;did not follow the exact steps&lt;/strong&gt; as described on the github/Ultimaker/CuraEngine README.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Before we begin, let's make a build directory and do everything in there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;mkdir ~/Downloads/curabuild&#xA;cd ~/Downloads/curabuild&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The instructions will be broken into &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;1. Install dependencies&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some or all of these may already be installed on your computer. To be sure, we install them anyways:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;sudo apt-get install git curl libtool dh-autoreconf cmake python3-setuptools python3-dev python3-sip sip-dev&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;2. Install protobuf&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Clone and enter the protobuf git repository:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;git clone https://github.com/google/protobuf&#xA;cd protobuf&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Build and install for C++:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;./autogen.sh&#xA;./configure&#xA;make # this will take some time&#xA;sudo make install&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Install for Python 3:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;cd python&#xA;sudo python3 setup.py install&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;3. Install libArcus&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Clone and enter the libArcus repository:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;cd ../..&#xA;git clone https://github.com/Ultimaker/libArcus&#xA;cd libArcus&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Build and install&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;cmake .&#xA;make&#xA;sudo make install&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;4. Install CuraEngine&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Clone and enter repository:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;cd ..&#xA;git clone https://github.com/Ultimaker/CuraEngine&#xA;cd CuraEngine&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Build and install&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;cmake .&#xA;make # grab a cup of coffee&#xA;sudo make install&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;5. Celebrate!&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If all went well, you're done! You can now use the Cura engine via &lt;code&gt;CuraEngine&lt;/code&gt;. Enjoy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2221" LastActivityDate="2016-06-21T02:55:25.110" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1398" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1373" CreationDate="2016-06-21T12:28:04.583" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If your gear skips at the same place each time I have found on my machine that the gear does not fit the motor shaft properly and has a larger gap between the gear and the idler roller.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check to see if there is a thicker buildup on one side of the gear than the other.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On my machine what I had to do was to use a spare motor cable and watch the gear as it turned, and at one point on the gear it would slip and shave off a small amount of filament. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If that turns out to be your problem use a good caliper to measure your motor shaft, and the inner diameter of the gear. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sometimes the minimum shaft diameter and the maximum bore diameter of the gear are just enough to allow that small variance in the outer rotation diameter of the gear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sometimes just replacing the gear will solve the problem, and sometimes it will require a new motor and/or gear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As an alternative you can clean the gear using Acetone and a toothbrush, but that will be required often and you will have buildup in the chamber below the gear which can also cause feed problems, and you must make sure that all Acetone has dried before using the extruder again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suggest starting with changing gears since they are the cheapest and using the Caliper to find the closet fit possible. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can get gears on e-bay at very reasonable prices. and I bought several to get the best fit possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck and consider if you want to make a more permanent repair or temporary repair when making your choice. I chose the more permanent one because the slippage was affecting some of my prints. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="442" LastActivityDate="2016-06-21T12:28:04.583" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1399" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1443" CreationDate="2016-06-21T19:54:41.557" Score="8" ViewCount="26962" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been printing small quantities from a PLA filament spool on a Craftbot printer for about two months now.  Recently the printed objects have been coming out very brittle.  Some structures that printed fine two months ago are now difficult to re-print.  The print head gets clogged easily, and when the object does print, it's quite brittle and 1/4&quot; to 1/8&quot; rods will easily snap off if not handled gently.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'll admit to not following the precautions for storage of PLA.  It's much easier to just leave the filament installed rather than trying to remove it after each print, so this one spool has just been sitting on the back of the printer for all these weeks now.  I'm sure it's been humid some of the days, we've had some rain here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has the spool of PLA been damaged just by leaving it exposed to room air for two months?  Could that be the sole cause of the brittle prints, or are there other possible causes?  Is there any way to fix the spool or future prints from this spool, or do I have to scrap it and get a new spool?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1400" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2018-09-16T12:24:35.527" LastActivityDate="2019-12-21T20:23:45.063" Title="Any fix for PLA prints getting more brittle over time?" Tags="|filament|pla|print-quality|filament-quality|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1400" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1399" CreationDate="2016-06-21T21:00:54.877" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;PLA absorbs moisture, so keeping the filament dry is a key factor. Aside from that, PLA is naturally more brittle than other plastics like ABS and Nylon Sorry, tried to find a graph to prove it, but couldn't find one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's a good &lt;a href=&quot;https://groups.google.com/forum/#!topic/makerbot/Rdx2ZnJeQzs&quot;&gt;Google Group discussion&lt;/a&gt; and many other resources that go over good storage habits, but as for fixing the existing filament.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Try the following: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Place PLA in an enclosure (plastic bin, Zip-loc bag, etc.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you have some, add some moisture absorber(s)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Place the tub in a warm environment (naturally or artificially) and make sure the area is dry as possible (not in the shed in the back, by the woods...). Possibly next to a heater vent or space heater in your house?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Essentially, you're trying to treat the material. When the material goes through a heat treatment (aka the heat block in the extruder), the mechanical properties are beginning to change. The brittleness can be set by how quickly the material cools. I'm speculating that the moisture does any of the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Keeps the filament from heating up to the desired extrusion temperature.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Burns the filament.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The moisture is evaporated, leaving gaps in the extruded filament (under microscope).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I looked into this a few years ago and have forgotten most of what I found out, but I'll keep looking and update my answer here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="98" LastActivityDate="2016-06-21T21:00:54.877" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1401" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1389" CreationDate="2016-06-22T08:40:37.830" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;None, if I choose the right control board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://smoothieware.org/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Smoothieboard&lt;/a&gt; supports CNC &quot;out of the box&quot;; it requires initial configuration, which, while somewhat different, is actually easier than for a 3D printer. Boards supporting &lt;a href=&quot;http://reprap.org/wiki/Grbl#Grbl&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Grbl&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;http://reprap.org/wiki/Teacup&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Teacup&lt;/a&gt; will be compatible for XYZ too, but may require some tinkering if you want to control the spindle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can use the same CAD software, but the set of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.freebyte.com/cad/cadcam.htm#cadcamsystems&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;CAM tools&lt;/a&gt; will need to be considerably different.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2206" LastEditorUserId="168" LastEditDate="2016-06-22T13:04:20.943" LastActivityDate="2016-06-22T13:04:20.943" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1403" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1412" CreationDate="2016-06-22T10:39:23.163" Score="5" ViewCount="93" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I have a self build Mendel Reprap style 3d printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've not used it in sometime after moving house but I'm looking to use it again. What should I pay attention to before calibrating and running it again?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2246" LastActivityDate="2016-06-23T09:13:29.587" Title="What should I pay attention to after taking a 3d printer from extended storage" Tags="|maintenance|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1404" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1408" CreationDate="2016-06-22T12:35:46.923" Score="23" ViewCount="15415" Body="&lt;p&gt;Inspired by another question and due to the fact that some of my filament will face the same problem when I will use them again, I wanted to know if there are proven recipies to get rid of water that has ben incorporated to PLA filament from humidity? One knows the filament had too much exposure to humidity when hearing tiny puffs during extrusion and/or more brittle prints.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know about suggestions to heat the water out of the filament at a temperature well below the glass transition temperature, but can someone provide first hand knowledge or even evidence?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="168" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2018-09-16T12:24:12.873" LastActivityDate="2018-09-16T12:24:12.873" Title="Can aged PLA be refurbished?" Tags="|filament|pla|repair|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1405" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1403" CreationDate="2016-06-22T13:43:29.657" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The main thing that might have changed is the bed level, so you should level the bed again. If your printer is sufficiently sturdy, this may not even be necessary (but this should become apparent during your first print). The remaining calibration parameters (steps per mm for all axes, PID tuning, etc...) should not have changed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should perhaps also check for any bolts/nuts/cables that might have come loose during transport. This is not particularly likely to have happened, unless something was loose to begin with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastActivityDate="2016-06-22T13:43:29.657" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1406" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1404" CreationDate="2016-06-22T13:53:13.110" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Storing PLAs in plastic zip locks along with Silica Gel helps with extraction of water from PLAs. If you don't have silica gel, grains of rice can be other work around for serving the purpose.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2169" LastActivityDate="2016-06-22T13:53:13.110" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1407" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1395" CreationDate="2016-06-22T14:41:11.580" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The issue occurring here is similar to a question asked &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/899/why-is-my-print-displacing-along-the-y-axis-by-2-3-cm/901#901&quot;&gt;over here&lt;/a&gt;. It looks as though this is a result of a hardware fault related to the stepper drivers. @DarthPixel recommended placing heatsinks on the stepper driver(s) and/or properly placed fans.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ELJPns.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ELJPns.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;A Stepper Driver&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OH24Zs.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OH24Zs.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;A Stepper Driver w/ Heatsink&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on the design of your machine, some stepper drivers are going to be worked harder than others. For example, a MakerBot Replicator will work the X-Axis stepper driver more than the Z-Axis stepper driver. Therefore, you have a higher chance of overheating your X-Axis stepper driver.&lt;sub&gt;(Images are of A4988 Stepper Driver, not directly compatible with MakerBot Replicator)&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively, I personally have seen the issue repeated by manually triggering one of the limit switches. The effects seemed to take effect on the next layer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="98" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T13:00:58.447" LastActivityDate="2016-06-22T14:41:11.580" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1408" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1404" CreationDate="2016-06-22T16:30:37.290" Score="28" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The easiest way to freshen up filament is hot air, although there are other options.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is an optimal melt processing &lt;em&gt;moisture level&lt;/em&gt; for every plastic, typically in the range of 0.1-0.2% water content by weight. But the equilibrium moisture content of most plastics in humid air can be more like 1%. As a consequence, &lt;strong&gt;hot air dehydration is standard practice&lt;/strong&gt; to prepare plastic pellets for extrusion in industry. Pretty much every injection-molded and extruded plastic product in the world -- including 3d printer filament -- is made with pre-dried pellets. Hot air is blown through the pellets until they are below the moisture limit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Different plastics tolerate extrusion with different amounts of moisture, and absorb different amounts of moisture. They can also tolerate different drying temperatures. So the ideal storage and drying conditions vary by material. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;PLA&lt;/strong&gt; absorbs relatively little moisture, but in humid environments can accumulate enough water content to cause steam bubbles during extrusion. In some cases, steam bubbles can contribute to hot end jamming. Extreme wetness has been known to cause swelling that can increase filament feed drag. It's arguable whether wetness actually causes brittleness, or if that is a separate aging issue. People who keep their homes below ~50% relative humidity usually don't have any problems. Leaving PLA in a dry environment for a week or two should adequately re-dry it, or it can be gently heated to about 120F / 50C for a couple hours. (Some people dry it hotter. but that risks deforming the filament.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;ABS&lt;/strong&gt; also doesn't absorb very much water, but perhaps a little more than PLA. It also experiences steam bubbles, but that's typically the only issue. Homes below ~45% RH usually don't have problems. Storing ABS with fresh silica gel for a couple weeks will dry it. Or it can be oven-dried up to about 180F / 80C for an couple hours. &lt;strong&gt;HIPS&lt;/strong&gt; can be treated the same. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The kind of PET used in plastic bottles is rapidly degraded into tar by hydrolysis when melted with any significant water content. So &lt;strong&gt;PETG&lt;/strong&gt; filaments are specially blended to absorb less water and to be less damaged by water than PET. But there is still the possibility of bubbles and cloudy strands due to steam expansion at higher temperatures, and there is some evidence that wet PETG produces weaker, more brittle prints than dry PETG. Different manufacturers' blends require different conditions: some people report Taulman t-glase needs oven-drying and careful storage while Esun PETG is fairly tolerant of normal home humidity levels. Oven-drying at 150F / 65C should work well. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Nylon&lt;/strong&gt; absorbs a huge amount of water, which causes it to swell considerably, produce massive steam bubbles, look cloudy, warp more, and adhere less than properly-dried nylon. It's nearly unprintable when wet. It should be oven-dried at around 150F / 65C for 4+ hours -- desiccant will not strip enough moisture from it. In fact, nylon will pull water out of used silica gel! Once dry, it should be stored with an aggressive desiccant (either bone-dry silica or preferably calcium chloride). It only takes a few hours of exposure to air for it to become excessively moist. Building a sealed drybox feed system is highly recommended to avoid exposed time during and between prints. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Polycarbonate&lt;/strong&gt; is similar to nylon in that is is an aggressive water-absorber. It will look cloudy, produce steam bubbles, warp more, and provide very poor layer bonding when wet. It should be oven-dried at 180F / 80C if on a plastic spool (up to 250F / 120C if dried alone) for 4+ hours and then stored in a drybox with aggressive desiccant just like nylon. Note that some modern PC blends like Esun ePC are less prone to water absorption, at the cost of some decrease in mechanical properties. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;PVA&lt;/strong&gt; is basically destroyed by airborne humidity, since it literally dissolves in water. Store in a drybox with an aggressive desiccant at all times. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Composite filaments should be treated like the base material. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some drying and prevention options:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Oven&lt;/strong&gt;: The &quot;warm&quot; setting will usually work pretty well. Let the oven preheat and settle out for a while, and measure temperature with a good oven thermometer or thermocouple. Shield the filament from direct radiant heating and hot spots with aluminum foil, cookie sheets, etc. Electric ovens will dry faster than gas ovens, because burning natural gas produces some additional moisture. Do not leave the oven unattended if using temperatures above the glass point of the filament, or bad things may happen!&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&quot;Light bucket&quot;&lt;/strong&gt;: A 5-gallon plastic bucket with an incandescent lightbulb inside is a pretty effective way to gently warm low-temp filament like PLA for drying or medium-term storage. Leave the lid slightly open if drying. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Food dehydrator&lt;/strong&gt;: Works great. Set temperatures as per the oven temps above. The main challenge is getting a large enough space inside for a filament spool. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Desiccant&lt;/strong&gt;: In order for desiccant to actively dry filament, it must be significantly more attractive to water than the filament is. And affinity for water is a function of how wet the material already is. That means dry desiccant can easily pull some water out of very wet filament, but wet desiccant can actually give water TO the filament! Rechargeable indicator desiccant (such as an &lt;em&gt;Eva-Dry E-333&lt;/em&gt; unit) is ideal. It's also important to have ENOUGH desiccant: silica gel can only absorb 10% of its weight in water at 20% RH. That means to pull 1% moisture content out of a wet 1kg spool, you would need to start with at least 100g of bone-dry, fresh-baked silica! &quot;Used&quot; silica is basically useless, it already contains too much water to pull any more from the filament. But you can re-dry the silica in an oven. 250F / 120C for 6 hours should be safe for all types of silica gel, but more aggressive drying (including microwave drying) is possible for some silica gels. Follow the gel manufacturer instructions. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Rice&lt;/strong&gt;: Does not work. It's basically a myth that rice has drying power. A bag of rice you buy at the store is already pretty close to moisture equilibrium with the air, so it has minimal capacity to pull water from filament (or a soaked iPhone, for that matter). If you dry the rice in an oven to drive out its water first, it will work to some degree, but silica gel is considerably more effective. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Kitty litter&lt;/strong&gt;: Silica gel style kitty litter is nearly identical to desiccant silica gel. Like rice, it is fairly close to saturated when you open the container, but can be dried in the oven to be a good cheap bulk desiccant. Clay type kitty litter is not as effective. Be careful of getting kitty litter dust all over your filament. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Dry storage&lt;/strong&gt; A thick plastic box with an airtight seal is preferable. Look for recycling code 2 (HDPE) or 5 (PP) on the box. 5 gallon buckets with sealing lids also work fine. Ziplocks and other thin plastic bags are better than nothing, but are permeable to water (yes, really) and can only be relied on as long as there is fresh desiccant in the bag. Acrylic/plexiglas dryboxes have been sold by various people, but acrylic is very permeable to water, so I don't recommend that option. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Air conditioning&lt;/strong&gt;: Simply keeping the air in your printing environment reasonably dry will protect PLA and ABS and other low-absorption filaments. It may help to buy a humidity monitor to get an understanding of your ambient humidity. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, considering the original question here, it's important to note that moisture content is not the only way filament can age or be damaged. PLA in particular is prone to becoming brittle over time. There are different theories for why this occurs. One is gradual chemical aging because poly(lactic acid) simply is not a very stable polymer. Moisture could contribute to that aging process, but true chemical aging would be irreversible even if the filament is later dried. How much this occurs should depend on the specific polymer blend and storage conditions. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another theory for PLA aging is that the residual filament extrusion stresses (from being drawn down to the correct diameter and rapidly quenched in a water bath) are slowly creeping over time. Anyone who has placed a PLA part under heavy load for more than a few weeks will see PLA creep. It's a rather odd polymer in that it will &quot;creep to failure&quot; and crack at very low creep elongations rather than progressively deform in a ductile manner like most creep-prone materials. So if the PLA has significant stresses locked-in from the initial extrusion process (which is very common) it may be creeping into a more brittle arrangement of polymer molecules over time. That would explain the aging effect, and it would explain why &quot;drying&quot; sometimes rejuvenates the PLA: heating the filament near its glass point will allow the polymer molecules to gently relax and basically anneal to a less brittle state. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="298" LastEditorUserId="298" LastEditDate="2016-06-22T16:39:59.473" LastActivityDate="2016-06-22T16:39:59.473" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1410" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1411" CreationDate="2016-06-23T04:24:21.237" Score="14" ViewCount="9149" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 3D Printer with 0.4&amp;nbsp;mm (400 micron) nozzle length and the printer guide suggests that it can print up to a layer thickness of 60 micron and has a accuracy up to 100 micron. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I'm trying to understand is that, how does the 0.4&amp;nbsp;mm nozzle output a filament size lesser than it? How does that process work?  Does it reduce the speed at which the filament flows or something?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2176" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-04-22T05:10:54.877" LastActivityDate="2019-04-22T05:14:05.310" Title="How does the sizes of nozzle diameter and the Z-axis layer resolution work?" Tags="|layer-height|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="1411" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1410" CreationDate="2016-06-23T07:10:39.380" Score="21" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, they do reduce the speed. Basically, the speed at which you feed filament determines how large of a volume comes out, and the distance you move the extruder means this volume gets distributed over this distance. However, this is not the whole story.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The size of your nozzle determines only two things: the &lt;em&gt;maximum&lt;/em&gt; layer height and the &lt;em&gt;minimum&lt;/em&gt; feature size. It does not affect minimum layer height (and obviously doesn't affect maximum feature size) although there are some practical constraints (you wouldn't want to print 0.1&amp;nbsp;mm layers with a 5&amp;nbsp;mm nozzle).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The nozzle squishes the filament down as it is extruded; the filament is basically forced into the gap between the nozzle and the previous layer. There's no limit to how thin of a layer you can print (the 60 micron figure is just something the marketing department made up, you can likely print even thinner layers). So long as you can position your Z-axis with sufficient accuracy (which is usually no problem) you can print arbitrarily thin layers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other hand, the nozzle size does determine the maximum layer height. Your need the filament to be squished a bit, or else it won't stick to the previous layer properly. You can't print layers thicker than your nozzle size, and it is generally recommended to print with a layer size that is at most 80&amp;nbsp;% of your nozzle size (e.g. with a 0.4&amp;nbsp;mm nozzle you shouldn't attempt to print layers thicker than 0.32&amp;nbsp;mm) but this is just a guideline.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your extrusion width is the width of the line deposited by your nozzle. This is generally (due to the mentioned squishing) a bit larger than your nozzle size. With a 0.4&amp;nbsp;mm nozzle you should set your extrusion width to something slightly larger, like 0.5&amp;nbsp;mm. It is technically possible to print with an extrusion width that is the same as (or even smaller) than your nozzle size, but this results in very weak prints: as mentioned before, you want the plastic to get squished slightly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They claim an accuracy up to 100 micron. This doesn't mean that you can print features as small as 100 micron (since you can't, due to the extrusion width being much larger). What this means, is for example, that if you print a 10&amp;nbsp;mm cube, you should expect its real size to be between 9.9&amp;nbsp;mm and 10.1&amp;nbsp;mm. Such a cube does not have any features that are smaller than your minimum feature size, but its outer walls can be positioned with greater precision than this minimum feature size.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I should caution you that the 100 micron figure is &quot;up to&quot; and in practice you will have a hard time achieving this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-04-22T05:14:05.310" LastActivityDate="2019-04-22T05:14:05.310" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="1412" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1403" CreationDate="2016-06-23T07:12:47.713" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;After storage you can check the following things before taking the machine into operation again:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Are all cables intact? You wouldn't want lose cables shorting your circuits, nor cables that may have become brittle or loose to break the circuitry during operation.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wipe off dust of the axes. Depending on your design, this might not be a big issue. However, it does not take too much time and doesn't hurt. If you're using bushings, you don't want the dust shortening the lifetime of your rods/bushings if it is that easily avoidable. (side-note: the lifetime of bushings in regular 3D Printing use is more than you can print)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Apply fresh grease/oil, depending on what design your printer follows. The old grease/oil might have come off or aged.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wipe off dust from the bed. - No dust on the nozzle, no dust embedded in your print.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;While they most likely will not change, there is a chance that your thermistors are off. This property should be given by the manufacturer as max. drift/year.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check your belts and pulleys. The belts might have come loose - tighten them again. If they lost their elasticity (does the 'curve' it made around the pulley stay to some extent?) they might need to be replaced.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check your fans when turning on the printer. You wouldn't want to lose electronics when you can cover this with a look, however unlikely it might be.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Happy calibrating after that ;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*edit:&#xA;As Tom already pointe out, most of these things are unlikely, due to the usually rigid construction of the printer. These are merely more or less likely possibilities of things that can go bad or worse in storage.&#xA;*/edit&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="168" LastEditorUserId="168" LastEditDate="2016-06-23T09:13:29.587" LastActivityDate="2016-06-23T09:13:29.587" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1413" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-06-23T09:14:49.580" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2016-06-23T09:14:49.580" LastActivityDate="2016-06-23T09:14:49.580" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1414" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-06-23T09:14:49.580" Score="0" Body="Questions on the quality of the print material for FDM printers that comes in the form of filaments" OwnerUserId="168" LastEditorUserId="98" LastEditDate="2016-06-23T14:11:52.333" LastActivityDate="2016-06-23T14:11:52.333" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1415" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-06-23T09:17:33.177" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The build plate describes the flat piece of material you print on. A heated build plate is called a heat-bed (see separate tag). The material of the build plate influences the adhesion of the print material substantially and heat transfer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2022-04-26T08:05:10.230" LastActivityDate="2022-04-26T08:05:10.230" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="1416" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-06-23T09:17:33.177" Score="0" Body="The build plate is the surface the print is created on, note that the build plate can consist of different types of surfaces (tag build-surface)." OwnerUserId="168" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2022-04-26T08:05:10.230" LastActivityDate="2022-04-26T08:05:10.230" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="1417" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-06-23T09:19:03.490" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2016-06-23T09:19:03.490" LastActivityDate="2016-06-23T09:19:03.490" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1418" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-06-23T09:19:03.490" Score="0" Body="E3D is a manufacturer of 3D printer parts. They are most well known for their E3D V5 and V6 hotends." OwnerUserId="168" LastEditorUserId="168" LastEditDate="2016-06-23T14:12:04.270" LastActivityDate="2016-06-23T14:12:04.270" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1419" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-06-23T09:21:53.630" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2016-06-23T09:21:53.630" LastActivityDate="2016-06-23T09:21:53.630" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1420" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-06-23T09:21:53.630" Score="0" Body="Octoprint is a web interface for 3D printers. It is hosted on http://octoprint.org/ and programmed by Gina Häußge." OwnerUserId="168" LastEditorUserId="168" LastEditDate="2016-06-23T14:13:27.187" LastActivityDate="2016-06-23T14:13:27.187" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1421" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-06-23T09:24:37.983" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2016-06-23T09:24:37.983" LastActivityDate="2016-06-23T09:24:37.983" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1422" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-06-23T09:24:37.983" Score="0" Body="Open source describes software/hardware which has openly available source code/designs and a license that allows studying, exchanging and distributing the designs for any purpose to anyone." OwnerUserId="168" LastEditorUserId="98" LastEditDate="2016-06-23T14:14:26.990" LastActivityDate="2016-06-23T14:14:26.990" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1423" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-06-23T09:25:13.760" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2016-06-23T09:25:13.760" LastActivityDate="2016-06-23T09:25:13.760" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1424" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-06-23T09:25:13.760" Score="0" Body="Wiring describes the electrical connection between components." OwnerUserId="168" LastEditorUserId="168" LastEditDate="2016-06-23T14:14:36.770" LastActivityDate="2016-06-23T14:14:36.770" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1425" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-06-23T09:26:45.127" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2016-06-23T09:26:45.127" LastActivityDate="2016-06-23T09:26:45.127" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1426" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-06-23T09:26:45.127" Score="0" Body="Warping denotes the phenomenon of lifting edges during printing. Warping is a thermal expansion effect due to filament shrinking when cooling down." OwnerUserId="168" LastEditorUserId="168" LastEditDate="2016-06-23T14:13:10.510" LastActivityDate="2016-06-23T14:13:10.510" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1427" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-06-23T09:28:58.590" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2016-06-23T09:28:58.590" LastActivityDate="2016-06-23T09:28:58.590" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1428" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-06-23T09:28:58.590" Score="0" Body="Support material defines the type of material used in a support structure. Typically the support material is the same as the print material, however, some designs require a specialized support material that is different from the regular print material." OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="98" LastEditDate="2016-06-23T14:10:28.357" LastActivityDate="2016-06-23T14:10:28.357" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1429" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1205" CreationDate="2016-06-23T17:45:00.840" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;After disassembling the extruder mechanism, I tracked the issue down to a clogged extruder… though not in the way I'd expected. A (previously?) common method to drop filament down to the hot end and create a heat-break between the heater and the extruder gear was the use of a PTFE (Teflon) sleeve. Over time, this sleeve can become clogged by filament that has melted and degraded/carbonized, sticking to the &quot;nonstick&quot; walls. This creates a bottleneck for the new filament, preventing smooth extrusion. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Lpbu5.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Lpbu5.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Carbonized filament clogging tube.&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jh43z.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jh43z.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Location of heat-break on used tube.&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My printer came with two replacement tubes. Swapping those in for the old, clogged tubes resulted in instantly improved printing… sorta like getting a new printer! Print temperatures are back to normal and everything operates fine. I was also able to drill out the carbonized filament from the old sleeve, though I doubt I'll reuse it. I found replacement sleeves on Amazon &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B01CUPV90M&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; and an alternative, &lt;a href=&quot;https://store.micro-swiss.com/pages/micro-swiss-all-metal-hotend&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;all-metal extruder assembly&lt;/a&gt; manufactured by Micro-Swiss. I'm not sure if you'd run into clogging issues on the all-metal one, so perhaps staying with the PTFE tubes and replacing them occasionally is a better way to go. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="102" LastActivityDate="2016-06-23T17:45:00.840" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1430" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-23T18:52:39.113" Score="8" ViewCount="7347" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have the &lt;a href=&quot;http://us.xyzprinting.com/us_en/Product/da-Vinci-1.0&quot;&gt;XYZPrinting da-Vinci-1.0&lt;/a&gt; with ABS filament. I am concerned about ventilation. If this is used inside, what safety precautions are necessary, which are recommended, and/or which are optional?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1828" LastActivityDate="2017-01-23T16:39:39.903" Title="ABS Filament safety concerns" Tags="|abs|ventilation|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1431" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1430" CreationDate="2016-06-23T19:26:06.303" Score="-6" Body="&lt;p&gt;your fine at practical temperatures.&#xA;source: &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Acrylonitrile_butadiene_styrene#Hazard_for_humans&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Acrylonitrile_butadiene_styrene#Hazard_for_humans&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;recommended would probably be set your controller to not go above 380c if your really worried. but it's not needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1445" LastActivityDate="2016-06-23T19:26:06.303" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1432" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="162" CreationDate="2016-06-24T18:24:57.303" Score="1" Body="&lt;h2&gt;WiFi&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A few of the newer machines are coming stock with WiFi connectivity such as MakerBot Replicator(s)/Z18, da Vinci Jr., Kudo3D, and some others that I'm forgetting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, these WiFi enabled machines essentially emulate what OctoPrint and AstroPrint provide. While wirelessly connecting might save the hassle of not saving a G-Code file to an SD card/Flashdrive, then plugging in said memory device, then selecting the program to run, the wireless solution still requires a slicer to do the work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both OctoPrint and AstroPrint allow building up a queue of sliced prints and I know that OctoPrint will even slice a 3D Print-ready model and place it in your queue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only application that I'm aware of that seems to reduce the most amount of work is MakerBot Desktop with a MakerBot Replicator/Z18. While MakerBot does not have a great reputation (as of 2016), they have produced some great software. As I understand, here's how you can utilize MakerBot Desktop:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Printing from Thingiverse&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Log into Thingiverse from MakerBot Desktop&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Find the model you want to print&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There should be a handy &lt;strong&gt;Print&lt;/strong&gt; button located in the interface&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The software will preview the model. Most models that have been uploaded to Thingiverse will be in print-ready orientation/scaling&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Continue by pressing &lt;strong&gt;Print&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Now the software will slice the model and send the G-Code via USB or WiFi&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Really, the only step that MakerBot Desktop skips is downloading the model from your web browser.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are some rare cases that models found on the internet (such as Thingiverse) will also have the sliced G-Code, but you'll have to be careful to make sure it's the correct flavor for your machine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Maybe in the future?&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Currently, Microsoft is working on a new 3D printing file format called &lt;a href=&quot;http://3mf.io/what-is-3mf/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;.3MF&lt;/a&gt; which theoretically could negate the need to slice a 3D model. I'm assuming that you would need a machine that specifically can interpret the file. This project is still very much in the works and it may be years before we see full support as the format needs to be agreed upon by both software companies like SolidWorks, AutoCAD, Catia, etc. &lt;strong&gt;AND&lt;/strong&gt; the 3D printer manufacturers like MakerBot/Stratasys, 3D Systems, and other big-named companies.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you combine the benefit of no longer needing to slice a model and WiFi/USB connection, then most of the &amp;quot;manual&amp;quot; work you describe will no longer be necessary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="98" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:29:41.667" LastActivityDate="2016-06-24T18:33:08.007" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1433" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-25T01:01:52.467" Score="5" ViewCount="463" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can I use a metal filament such as Copper, Zinc Alloy, Silver filaments on M3D Micro? &lt;em&gt;The Pro hasn't come out yet but I assume it would if the Micro can since the Pro is suppose to be the improvement edition.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An example of a metal filament that I found is this &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B00T76GLWE&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Silver PLA 1.75mm Filament&lt;/a&gt;. Here's one for &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sainsmart.com/sainsmart-plated-copper-pla-1-75mm-filament-1kg-2-2lb-for-3d-printers.html?gclid=CjwKEAjwtLO7BRDax4-I4_6G71USJAA6FjN1VDu_t4Co-u949PfHWjVL0x6BD-I-4ZLRUEij0bhWLhoCSSbw_wcB&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Cooper PLA 1.75mm Filament&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would like to make small sculptures or bracelet beads/charms, and whatever else I could think of making using metal. And, I'm asking because I'm new to 3d printing, I want to learn how to work with a 3d printer and M3D is very affordable for me. &lt;em&gt;So I'm making sure before I buy&lt;/em&gt;. Note that I've emailed M3D twice and I didn't get any reply. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If not M3D, can any other 3D Printer comparable to M3D do this? The MBot Mini, maybe?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="197" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2022-01-12T07:22:29.897" LastActivityDate="2022-01-12T07:22:29.897" Title="Can I use a metal filament on M3D Micro (or Pro)?" Tags="|print-material|filled-pla|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1434" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-26T07:46:37.750" Score="3" ViewCount="8409" Body="&lt;p&gt;I search about that topic, but all what I found, was the mechanical part of the 3d printer. But I didn't find, how to program it using arduino.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to make a cartesian 3d printer. I don't have a printer yet, but I will buy all the components that I need actually.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know, how to control stepper motors, but I don't know, how I can program it in order to make the shape that I want.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is my question: what I need to learn in order to let this 3d printer make this shapes?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2289" LastEditorUserId="132" LastEditDate="2017-05-15T11:45:39.897" LastActivityDate="2018-02-09T12:06:41.013" Title="How can I program a 3D printer to move using Arduino?" Tags="|arduino-mega-2650|diy-3d-printer|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1436" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1433" CreationDate="2016-06-26T18:28:46.067" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most 3D printers that use non-proprietary filament &lt;em&gt;can&lt;/em&gt; print exotic filaments, such as the ones you mention. One thing to be aware of, though, is that some of these filaments &lt;a href=&quot;http://makezine.com/2015/09/11/carbon-fiber-filament-ruins-nozzles/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;wear down the nozzle&lt;/a&gt; far more quickly than ordinary PLA, and therefore should be used with &lt;a href=&quot;http://e3d-online.com/V6-nozzle-hardened-steel-3mmx0.4mm&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;reinforced nozzles&lt;/a&gt; (unless you have extra nozzles to spare). Carbon fibre and metallic filaments are generally known to increase nozzle wear, while softer alloys such as wood and bamboo generally are less abrasive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A quick google search reveals that many people have used non-proprietary filament on the M3D Micro successfully, but be aware that using such filaments is not covered by your &lt;a href=&quot;https://printm3d.com/terms-of-use&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;warranty&lt;/a&gt;. If you are going to use abrasive filaments with your Micro, I would check that M3D allows you to replace the nozzle first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="115" LastEditorUserId="115" LastEditDate="2016-06-26T18:55:07.687" LastActivityDate="2016-06-26T18:55:07.687" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1437" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-27T02:57:19.170" Score="3" ViewCount="483" Body="&lt;p&gt;I not sure what this code does..... I recently bought a titan extruded that needs to be calibrated with my printer (417 microsteps &lt;a href=&quot;http://wiki.e3d-online.com/wiki/Titan_Assembly#Firmware_Calibration&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://wiki.e3d-online.com/wiki/Titan_Assembly#Firmware_Calibration&lt;/a&gt;). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am having a hard time understanding why they have D_Filament at 2.85 (my printer was made using 1.85mm filament) and why they used it twice in there equation. Also, what are the arc interpretations for?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;#ifdef ADVANCE&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;#define EXTRUDER_ADVANCE_K .0&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;#define D_FILAMENT 2.85&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;#define STEPS_MM_E 836&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;#define EXTRUTION_AREA (0.25 * D_FILAMENT * D_FILAMENT * 3.14159)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;#define STEPS_PER_CUBIC_MM_E (axis_steps_per_unit[E_AXIS]/ EXTRUTION_AREA)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#endif // ADVANCE&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;// Arc interpretation settings:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt; #define MM_PER_ARC_SEGMENT 1&#xA;&#xA; #define N_ARC_CORRECTION 25&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="635" LastActivityDate="2016-06-27T13:16:23.900" Title="Advance extrusion, extruder code help?" Tags="|filament|extruder|calibration|maintenance|marlin|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1439" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1437" CreationDate="2016-06-27T08:10:08.607" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The extruder advance feature is probably not enabled on your printer, so this code effectively does nothing (and you don't need to mess with it). Extruder advance is a feature that tries to compensate for the delay between feeding (or retracting) the filament and the point at which it actually starts to extrude, but it's generally not used. The fact that the manufacturer left &lt;code&gt;D_FILAMENT&lt;/code&gt; at the default of 2.85 probably means they didn't enable this. You can check whether it is enabled by seeing if there is an (uncommented) &lt;code&gt;#define ADVANCE&lt;/code&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason &lt;code&gt;D_FILAMENT&lt;/code&gt; appears twice is because they're computing the cross-sectional area of your filament, which proportional to the square of its diameter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The arc interpolation settings have nothing to do with extruder calibration at all, but define the resolution at which G2/G3 approximate arcs. G2/G3 are currently not supported/used by most slicers, so you can safely ignore these settings since they don't do anything that would influence regular printing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;strong&gt;only&lt;/strong&gt; thing that you should change is the following line in the &lt;code&gt;Configuration.h&lt;/code&gt; file:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT   {80,80,4000,500}&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Leave the first three values as-is (they may be different for your printer) and change the last one to &lt;code&gt;417&lt;/code&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could also avoid changing the firmware at all, and use &lt;code&gt;M92 E417&lt;/code&gt; to set the steps per mm for your extruder, or (if you have an LCD) use the LCD to adjust the steps per mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastActivityDate="2016-06-27T08:10:08.607" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1442" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2613" CreationDate="2016-06-28T17:06:18.597" Score="5" ViewCount="6348" Body="&lt;p&gt;I created a new project in Materialise Magics, added a few parts (different STLs), moved them around in certain positions and now I want to export this project into another STL, containing my recent work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The export menu seems to be all grey, like this function is not available. Do I have to do some repairing first or something similar? Or Magics needs other software in order to export a Magics Project to a STL file?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="335" LastEditorUserId="115" LastEditDate="2016-06-29T20:47:28.970" LastActivityDate="2016-08-07T22:27:29.270" Title="How can I export a Materialise Magics Project as a STL file?" Tags="|3d-models|file-formats|materialise-magics|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1443" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1399" CreationDate="2016-06-28T17:15:17.393" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Increase nozzle temperature. When the filament is new it will print easier, requiring less heat to print well. So if you didn't store your filament properly to begin with, increasing print temperature will make it jam less and increase layer bonding. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason for this is because the moisture that accumulates in the filament will absorb heat and evaporate when printed, meaning that the filament itself isn't getting the same amount of heating as it used to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That being said, the storage suggestions mentioned by tbm should be your first priority. I personally put my filament in Zip Lock plastic bags and store these in a dry location not exposed to sun or temperature changes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="115" LastEditorUserId="115" LastEditDate="2016-06-29T06:42:23.717" LastActivityDate="2016-06-29T06:42:23.717" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1444" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-29T04:43:36.577" Score="5" ViewCount="1352" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am using the E3D v6 hotend with the titan extruder. Everytime I go to do a test print, just enough stringy filament oozes comes out of the hotend &quot;right before&quot; it lays down the first layer. I have no idea why it oozes out the little bit of filament before it prints.... The unwanted filament builds up while some of the first layer is done. As a result, what has been printed or about to be printed get stuck together as it tries to do the rest of the print....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ezHBV.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ezHBV.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="635" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-09-30T10:27:35.397" LastActivityDate="2019-09-30T10:27:35.397" Title="First Layer problems?" Tags="|print-quality|pla|extruder|e3d-v6|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="1445" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1444" CreationDate="2016-06-29T09:03:54.157" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;As the filament in the melt chamber heats up, it's going to inevitably ooze a little bit.  Make sure you watch for this and clean it off as the hot-end heats up, and setup you slicing software to print a skirt, which will print a few loops around the outside of your print, separated by a few mm, to deal with ooze and get filament flowing properly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it oozes a lot, try reducing your print temperature a bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="196" LastActivityDate="2016-06-29T09:03:54.157" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1446" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1444" CreationDate="2016-06-29T11:14:00.893" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;One possible solution is to &quot;park&quot; the hotend on the print bed as it is heating up. The bed blocks the nozzle, and prevents ooze from coming out. If any does come up, it tends to stick to the bed, not to the nozzle. You can do this by including an appropriate &lt;code&gt;G1&lt;/code&gt; command in your start G-code.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastActivityDate="2016-06-29T11:14:00.893" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1447" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1444" CreationDate="2016-06-29T14:31:15.887" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;In general, it's a bit normal to have &lt;em&gt;some&lt;/em&gt; filament ooze during warm-up. However, if it seems to be an abnormal amount, you may want to consider reducing your target temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keep in mind that ideal extrusion temperatures are subjective to the source of your filament. Not all filament is of the same material quality and differing degrees of purity. Sometimes, the same filament will be of different quality from the same source. It might be worth dedicating the first bit of each spool to a bar test to determine what the appropriate extrusion temperature should be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A simple test would be to use the control panel on your machine or use your software (whichever is easiest for you):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Manually set the extruder to &lt;strong&gt;extrude filament&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Stop&lt;/strong&gt; the extruder&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Clean&lt;/strong&gt; excess material from nozzle&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Watch&lt;/strong&gt; for ooze&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Gradually &lt;strong&gt;reduce&lt;/strong&gt; the temperature&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Repeat&lt;/strong&gt; until the amount of ooze is an appropriate to your liking&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also remember that there will be some left-over material from a previous spool when swapping spools.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="98" LastActivityDate="2016-06-29T14:31:15.887" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1448" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="982" CreationDate="2016-06-29T15:17:25.727" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You seem to have a pretty good understanding of how STL, so in case it helps anyone else, there is a file format (currently) in design called &lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://3mf.io/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;3MF&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; which should help with more accurate 3D Printing. While its focus is to ensure solidarity in a model (or manifold), the XML-based format should leave itself open to allow the machine/slicing software to be the only limiting factor in design geometry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since &lt;em&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/STL_(file_format)&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;STL&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/em&gt; relies on triangulation to define its shapes, it is common to see the discrepancy, especially on a circular feature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="98" LastActivityDate="2016-06-29T15:17:25.727" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1449" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-29T16:48:35.167" Score="6" ViewCount="18714" Body="&lt;p&gt;My Craftbot Plus Craftware slicer estimates cost per job based on filament prices I add as parameters.  What costs per meter would you use?  I created spreadsheets to calculate this for 1.75mm diameter filament and arrived at PLA = 6.6 cents per meter, ABS = 6.1 and PET XT = 18.6 cents per meter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit:  thanks for feedback!  I paid \$22 per kilogram for PLA and ABS.  I paid \$57 for .75 kilogram of Colorfab XT Black.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2326" LastEditorUserId="5" LastEditDate="2018-09-14T00:44:53.177" LastActivityDate="2019-05-30T20:22:36.043" Title="What are the costs per meter of filament for PLA, ABS and PET?" Tags="|filament|pla|abs|cost|pet|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="1450" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1449" CreationDate="2016-06-29T18:23:02.590" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The simplest method is to divide spool price by its length. That's obvious I think. If PLA 1.75 (1kg net) has about 120m length and it costs 16usd then it looks like 1m costs arount 13c. =price/length&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think everyone can buy different filament at different price from different vendors so there is no good general price to enter into your slicer app. It has to be calculated each time you use new filament.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are also other parts of the price. Electricity, time, wear, depreciation, know-how even the rent is some part of the ending price of the final product. Of course most of them are incalculable as they are permiles or so. But if you don't plan to sell it you can base on the filament price only.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1211" LastActivityDate="2016-06-29T18:23:02.590" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1451" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-29T18:49:31.143" Score="3" ViewCount="906" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a serious problem and I can't find a way to solve it because I have no idea why is it happening.&#xA;For some reason the things I print get really messy, like a mountain range growing on the print. It looks like overflow but it can't be because I'm already using 0.82 flow modifier and if I go any lower the printout will fall apart as the extrusions won't touch at all. I've double checked my extruder steps and my filament and also my nozzle width, all are set up correctly. The whole thing looks like the printer is over-extruding just in some parts of the print.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CgpKL.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CgpKL.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2327" LastActivityDate="2016-06-29T20:39:35.357" Title="Prints get really messy for no apparent reason" Tags="|print-quality|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1452" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1449" CreationDate="2016-06-29T19:45:48.717" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;This strongly depends on the cost of the spool in question. Prices are not consistent among materials at all; a spool of ABS can cost anywhere from \$15 to \$60 and the same price range applies to pretty much all other plastic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the purpose of this question I am going to assume that a 1 kilogram spool costs \$25 (regardless of material) but you can scale the figures to what is appropriate for your brand of filament.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.toybuilderlabs.com/blogs/news/13053117-filament-volume-and-length&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;ToyBuilder Labs&lt;/a&gt; lists the density of ABS at 1.04g/ml, whereas PLA is somewhat more dense at 1.25g/ml. As such, a 1kg spool of ABS would be 400 meters (1.75mm filament) or 156 meters (2.85mm filament). PLA would come out to 333 meters (125 meters for 2.85mm filament)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We thus have the following costs (cost per meter for 2.85mm filament in parenthesis):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;ABS: 6.25 cents/meter (16)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;PLA: 7.5 cents/meter (20)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The density of PETG is roughly the same as PLA, so they have the same cost per meter (for similarly priced spools).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In general, to compute the cost per meter, you would use the following formula:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$$[\text{\$/m}]=[\text{cost of 1 }kg] \times [\text{density in }g/mm^3] \times \frac{[\text{diameter in }mm]^2\ \times \pi }{4000}$$&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastEditorUserId="4808" LastEditDate="2019-05-30T20:22:36.043" LastActivityDate="2019-05-30T20:22:36.043" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="1453" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1451" CreationDate="2016-06-29T19:57:23.733" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It definitely looks like over extruding. But similar effect can appear with proper extruding (or not too much exceeded) but with too high temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it appears only on some parts of the first layer then it can be:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;bed leveling issue (or eventually bed is bent)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;caret mechanism issue (dispositioned/bent)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also check different speeds just to be sure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1211" LastActivityDate="2016-06-29T19:57:23.733" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1454" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1451" CreationDate="2016-06-29T20:36:29.593" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is happening on the first or second layer, correct? It looks like your nozzle is trammed too close to the build plate. If there is less gap between the nozzle and bed than the slicer expects, it will over-extrude the first layer. That tends to produce &quot;bacon&quot; patterns of ripples on the bottom of the print as the plastic gets unevenly squeezed out to the side of the strand. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="298" LastActivityDate="2016-06-29T20:36:29.593" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1455" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1451" CreationDate="2016-06-29T20:39:35.357" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your printer could be &lt;strong&gt;calibrated too close to the bed&lt;/strong&gt;: if your slicer is set to use a 0.4mm first layer height, but the printer actually moves the nozzle 0.2mm from the bed, then you will get this result.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this is the case, the first layers look over extruded and squashed, while layers after sparse infill has been printed will look fine. The support structure will in this case give room for the extra filament, making the extrusion look normal again (although it probably was fine all along).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="115" LastActivityDate="2016-06-29T20:39:35.357" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1456" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-06-29T20:48:31.587" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Materialise Magics is a data preparation and STL editor software for Additive Manufacturing developed by &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.materialise.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Materialise NV&lt;/a&gt;. More details &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.materialise.com/en/software/magics&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="115" LastEditorUserId="150" LastEditDate="2018-10-25T10:48:24.977" LastActivityDate="2018-10-25T10:48:24.977" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="1457" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-06-29T20:48:31.587" Score="0" Body="About questions related to the Materialise Magics 3D printing software." OwnerUserId="115" LastEditorUserId="115" LastEditDate="2016-06-29T20:48:31.587" LastActivityDate="2016-06-29T20:48:31.587" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1460" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1462" CreationDate="2016-06-30T16:38:23.227" Score="4" ViewCount="3434" Body="&lt;p&gt;I homebuilt a delta 3D printer (like Kossel mini) with a Z probe near the hotend with manual deploy and RAMPS 1.4 board:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I configured the Repetier firmware with the online tool;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;All my endstops (included the Z probe endstop) work in reverse mode, so I reversed the endstops triggering option;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I enabled &lt;em&gt;Z-probing&lt;/em&gt; and set the &lt;code&gt;BED_LEVELING_METHOD&lt;/code&gt; to 1 (n*n grid);&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I set &lt;code&gt;Z_PROBE_REPETITIONS&lt;/code&gt; to 3, and;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Finally I downloaded it and uploaded to my Mega 2560.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then I tested it inside Repetier-Host and all seems to work well (homing, moving, extruding) except for the Autobed leveling method.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Specifically, it always starts measurement of &lt;strong&gt;3 Points&lt;/strong&gt; (with 3 probe repetition each) even if I change the type of measurement.&#xA;It never does a &lt;strong&gt;grid measurement&lt;/strong&gt; or a &lt;strong&gt;2 points mirror&lt;/strong&gt; measurement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also tried to re-upload the firmware with &lt;code&gt;EEPROM_MODE&lt;/code&gt; to 0 but didn't work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone have the same issue, or can explain to me why this happens?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2343" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2017-05-18T06:21:08.340" LastActivityDate="2017-06-11T10:55:17.323" Title="Bed leveling method not working with Repetier firmware 0.92.9?" Tags="|delta|repetier|kossel|z-probe|repetier-host|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1461" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1460" CreationDate="2016-06-30T17:08:00.077" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Delta bed leveling has been dodgy in Repetier for a long time. There are a number of fixes occurring in the dev branch right now (June 2016) if you look at Github. So it's getting better, but I wouldn't call it mature yet. (Delta auto-calibration is one of the only big shortcomings of Repetier, in my opinion.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem with approaches like bed plane compensation and grid/mesh leveling for Deltas is that they don't fix print geometry errors caused by imprecise printer construction. They just help get the first layer down. What I would recommend is to use one of the non-Repetier delta auto-calibration techniques available in order to get your firmware settings correct, and then you won't need to use &quot;slap a bandaid on a calibration problem&quot; solutions like grid leveling. Two popular options:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Load Rich Cattell's Marlin branch&lt;/strong&gt;, perform auto-calibration, record the adjusted values, and then load those parameters into Repetier. This will usually work well enough that you don't need to attempt any kind of auto-leveling in Repetier. (I don't recommend actually printing with Marlin on a Delta due to lack of performance optimization. Repetier can print much, much faster while managing more features like LCDs. Marlin gets bogged down doing all the Delta kinematics math unless you print very slow.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Use David Crocker's awesome &lt;a href=&quot;http://escher3d.com/pages/wizards/wizarddelta.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;online delta calibration tool&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/strong&gt; I'd recommend using six-factor calibration with 10 probe points. This is the manual version of the auto-calibration technique built into dc42 RepRapFirmware, and it's practically magical compared to the routines built into Repetier. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sidenote: Grid leveling can be a very useful technique for large printers where bed flatness is difficult to achieve. It's just very limited as a way to deal with delta calibration problems. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="298" LastActivityDate="2016-06-30T17:08:00.077" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1462" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1460" CreationDate="2016-06-30T17:16:37.993" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;As a guess, you are using the wrong command. If set for n x n grid, you get 3 point measurement with G29, but that is not auto leveling, it is just setting Z height - based on average height at 3 points.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What you need is &lt;code&gt;G32 S2&lt;/code&gt; with &lt;code&gt;S2&lt;/code&gt; to store result in EEPROM (and therefore you should have EEPROM enabled with auto leveling. It is also used to store endstop offsets).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2345" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2017-06-11T10:55:17.323" LastActivityDate="2017-06-11T10:55:17.323" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1463" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-30T22:07:25.963" Score="7" ViewCount="2054" Body="&lt;p&gt;Has anybody taken apart a da Vinci Jr. 3D printer nozzle?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My first time trying to clean the nozzle after it jammed, I broke off the filament immediately before it gets heated, inside the nozzle assembly. The XYZprinting video, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZIuyXQroetU&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&quot;da Vinci Jr. 1.0 - Advanced Nozzle Cleaning&quot;&lt;/a&gt;, shows the filament coming out easily when heated, but now I'm seeing that I should have cut the filament by the feeder and pulled it out after heating. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a long length of wire that is similar to the tiny cleaning wire that comes with the kit. Is it safe to heat up the nozzle and push the wire all the way through?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried pushing from the other direction with the large cleaning tool (as shown in &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZIuyXQroetU&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;video&lt;/a&gt;). I also tried heating the tip of the filament and pushing it to the jammed filament inside the nozzle and reconnecting it. It held a while as I tried wiggling it when heated but did not break the jam loose and broke off again... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What should I do?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2330" LastEditorUserId="98" LastEditDate="2017-01-03T23:25:16.370" LastActivityDate="2017-07-01T22:32:46.140" Title="da Vinci Jr. nozzle diagram" Tags="|maintenance|nozzle|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1465" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1485" CreationDate="2016-07-01T10:11:45.450" Score="10" ViewCount="35586" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Before the question, here is my setup;&lt;/strong&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Prusa i3 (with mainboard Mks Gen v1.2)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Repetier as slicer&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Marlin source code &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My main task is to convert my 3D printer into a chocolate printer.&#xA;I have replaced the filament extruder with a chocolate extruder. And it is there that my issue began. Because, the new extruder is stopping slightly off the y-axis when homing. It is going out of the standard 20x20 cm bed. The other X and Z axes are OK.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, I have played with the &lt;code&gt;#defines&lt;/code&gt; explained below, but I couldn't even make any single mm difference by homing. They are all ignored when the printer is homing. It goes and rests on the hardware end-stops and stops there eventually.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All I want 10 mm offset for Y axis.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Started with this;&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;// Travel limits after homing&#xA;#define X_MAX_POS 200&#xA;#define X_MIN_POS 0&#xA;#define Y_MAX_POS 190  &amp;lt;&amp;lt;&amp;lt;&amp;lt; (tested with 190 and 210)&#xA;#define Y_MIN_POS 0&#xA;#define Z_MAX_POS 200&#xA;#define Z_MIN_POS 0&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;and this;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;// The position of the homing switches&#xA;#define MANUAL_HOME_POSITIONS  // If defined, MANUAL_*_HOME_POS below will be used&#xA;&#xA;//Manual homing switch locations:&#xA;// For deltabots this means top and center of the cartesian print volume.&#xA;#define MANUAL_X_HOME_POS 0&#xA;#define MANUAL_Y_HOME_POS 10 &amp;lt;&amp;lt;&amp;lt; (tested with 10 or -10)&#xA;#define MANUAL_Z_HOME_POS 0&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have also played with the &lt;strong&gt;slicer tool (Repetier)&lt;/strong&gt; settings where homing related values are mentioned but no joy there as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any input highly appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-01-15T15:47:47.427" LastActivityDate="2019-01-15T15:47:47.427" Title="How to set a new homing position using software and/or slicer without changing hardware end-stop?" Tags="|firmware|chocolate|homing|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="1466" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-01T19:18:06.453" Score="2" ViewCount="349" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm a newb and don't know much about 3D printers.&#xA;In visual basic I can create vector data of 3d objects,that can be loaded into a binary or text file.&#xA;Can files like this be used with a 3d printer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Example:&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a very simplified example of how the code generates 3d vector data.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;ju jv jw determine the size and dimensions of the object&#xA;ru, rv, rw are the vector lenghts&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The incrementors used to increase the size of the object to the max ju jv jw vaules:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;ru=ru+1&#xA;rv=rv+1&#xA;rw=rw+1&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;'the angles can also be incremented to for curves and spirials'&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;the angles of the vectors&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;angle u =0&#xA;angle v =45&#xA;angle w = 90&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Simplified code:&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;For k1 = 0 To Ju&#xA;&#xA;    ru=ru+1&#xA;&#xA;    xu = (ru * Sin(angle u))&#xA;&#xA;    yu = (ru * Cos(angle u))&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;For k2 = 0 To Jv&#xA;&#xA;   rv=rv+1&#xA;&#xA;   xv = (rv * Sin(angle v))&#xA;&#xA;   yv = (rv * Cos(angle v))&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;For k3 = 0 To Jw&#xA;&#xA;    rw=rw+1&#xA;&#xA;    xw = (rw * Sin(angle w))&#xA;&#xA;    yw = (rw * Cos(angle w))&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;Output xu, yu, xv, yv, xw, yw  ..to file in the order produced on this line&#xA;&#xA;Next k3 : next k2: next k1&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can a 3d printer read this output as is and use it to make a 3d object?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2361" LastEditorUserId="2361" LastEditDate="2016-07-05T16:51:19.863" LastActivityDate="2016-07-06T02:41:17.180" Title="File Input data types" Tags="|3d-design|slicing|cad|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1467" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1466" CreationDate="2016-07-01T20:07:58.853" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not directly. The most common types of 3D printers build objects in layers. They &quot;draw&quot; a layer, then &quot;draw&quot; another layer slightly above it, repeating until they've &quot;drawn&quot; the entire model. Preparing your model for this is called &quot;slicing&quot;, since you are &quot;slicing&quot; your model into these layers. Slicing is a complex process and it's a lot of work to &quot;roll your own&quot; software for it, and there are several good, free applications to do it for you out there already.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What you probably &lt;em&gt;can&lt;/em&gt; do easily is output your data in STL format to be read by the slicing software. STL (either ASCII or binary) is a dead simple format that contains the triangles that comprise your model. So simple, in fact, that the &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/STL_(file_format)&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Wikipedia article&lt;/a&gt; tells you just about all you need to know.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;To get triangles from squares:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;A--B    Here is a &quot;square&quot; with vertices ABCD.    A--B    A--B    A&#xA;|  |    Splitting it from A to C produces two     |\ | -&amp;gt;  \ |    |\&#xA;|  |    triangles, ABC and CDA.  This can be      | \| -&amp;gt;   \|    | \&#xA;D--C    done as part of the output by simply      D--C       C    D--C&#xA;        writing two triangles for every&#xA;        square in the input.&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1680" LastEditorUserId="1680" LastEditDate="2016-07-06T02:41:17.180" LastActivityDate="2016-07-06T02:41:17.180" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1468" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1469" CreationDate="2016-07-02T07:41:12.473" Score="12" ViewCount="9198" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is a 100 micron layer thickness object stronger than 300 micron layer thickness 3D printed object? Are there any rules to follow? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Filament type - PLA&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2176" LastActivityDate="2016-07-02T09:02:04.607" Title="Does the layer thickness have any effect of the strength of the 3D printed object?" Tags="|pla|print-strength|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1469" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1468" CreationDate="2016-07-02T09:02:04.607" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;3D Matter has published an &lt;a href=&quot;http://my3dmatter.com/influence-infill-layer-height-pattern/&quot;&gt;excellent article on the subject&lt;/a&gt;. They find that thicker layers result in a stronger part, with 0.3mm layers giving a part that is around 24% stronger than the same part printed with 0.1mm layers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One small issue with this study is that it did not look at the effects of temperature. Raising the temperature generally results in stronger parts because the layers will fuse better. It is possible that you could make a 0.1mm part just as strong as a 0.3mm part by raising the printing temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another consideration for inter-layer bonding is how much the next layer is &quot;squished&quot; onto the previous one. Using a wider extrusion width will improve strength.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main issue with the strength of FDM parts is that they tend to break much easier along the layers, much like how wood is much stronger across the grain. You have to take this into account when making your design, and ensure that features that will be subjected to stress/strain are printed in the XY-plane.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastActivityDate="2016-07-02T09:02:04.607" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1471" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-03T07:49:03.513" Score="4" ViewCount="2885" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's criminal how wasteful the Stratsys uPrint SE Plus is with it's 'one use' modelling bases. Is there a reliable way to re purpose them? I have tried ethanol and acetone, but not had any luck.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1927" LastActivityDate="2018-06-25T15:22:02.340" Title="How to reuse modelling bases for the Stratasys uPrint SE Plus?" Tags="|material|build-plate|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1472" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1471" CreationDate="2016-07-03T14:59:55.800" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;People have done quite a bit of experimenting with reusing Mojo build plates over the years. The uPrint is likely similar. Basically a different adhesion layer is placed on the bed that has easier release. BuildTak has been used successfully. Gluestick or hairspray such as Aquanet will work and are water soluble for easier removal post-print. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="298" LastActivityDate="2016-07-03T14:59:55.800" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1473" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="61" CreationDate="2016-07-03T19:12:00.387" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;To answer the specific question of &quot;why&quot; the corners lift off, it seems it has to do with the thermal expansion (or shrinkage) and surface adhesion area.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The material is deposited hot, and even after it cools is still warm, and as it cools it apparently shrinks in size slightly. Each layer therefore produces a little bit of force, pulling upwards and towards the center of the layer as the layer shrinks.  So each layer is actually in a state of slightly tensile stress.&#xA;Over a few layers this may not cause a noticeable effect, but as more layers are added, the total force pulling on the bottom layer increases.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason this affects corners more than the bulk surface regions is that the total surface area holding the part to the bed is smaller at sharper corners, so less force is required there to overcome the bed-adhesion force, causing corners to unstick eventually.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since this is an artifact of thermal expansion, attempting to maintain a uniform temperature across the print volume/printed part will probably help a lot (for example, by enclosing the printer, as others have said).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition to the prior suggestions, the following paper suggests that chamfering (rounding) the corners can help with this (if your design allows for that):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://commons.erau.edu/cgi/viewcontent.cgi?article=1085&amp;amp;context=ijaaa&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;D. D. Hernandez, &quot;Factors Affecting Dimensional Precision of Consumer 3D Printing&quot;, Intl. Jnl. Aviation, Aeronautics and Aerospace (2015)&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&quot;If the bottom layer does not appropriately adhere to the print bed, the cooling process and material shrinkage in layers above it will tend to pull at the smallest features, with the least surface area in contact with the bed, causing sections of the print to warp. Sharp corners at the bottom of the print pose a particular problem.&quot;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Side-thought:&lt;/em&gt;&#xA;I wonder if varying the bed temperature during the print (for example, slowly decreasing it to room-temp as more layers are printed) would help, since a constant bed-temp would theoretically produce a vertical temp-gradient for a very tall part.  Don't think I've seen anyone try that (presumably because Cura doesn't automatically insert those g-code commands for us).  Wouldn't be too hard to insert custom bed-temp commands throughout the g-code file though, but would take longer to temp-stabilize between layers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2383" LastEditorUserId="2383" LastEditDate="2016-07-03T19:25:06.083" LastActivityDate="2016-07-03T19:25:06.083" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1474" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1476" CreationDate="2016-07-04T03:51:53.017" Score="3" ViewCount="194" Body="&lt;p&gt;I get nothing but black bars and &quot;Unknown USB Device&quot; from Windows 10.  This is after a failed flash that was otherwise going directly according to plan.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This Davinci has been nothing but frustration for me, and I'm really tired of fruitless Google-Fu.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Much of what I see pretty much says it's bricked;  attempting to jump the jp1 jumper any further does me no good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there anything I can do to actually move forward, or are we in soldering-iron territory now?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2389" LastActivityDate="2016-07-04T19:10:43.233" Title="Trying to flash Davinci XYZ 1.0, nothing but black bars" Tags="|repetier|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1475" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="388" CreationDate="2016-07-04T07:10:44.833" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;So far, these are my experiences to make a new hotend work properly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Read the instructions. The ones of the 'original' if it is a clone.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check the parts. Is everything included you need?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;and check the design, if it is a clone. It might not be the same as the one they're trying to copy. Figure out the differences (as far as I encountered mainly the heatbreak/inliner design)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There is no immediate need to mechanically check the nozzle if it passes an optical check. You will be calibrating the extrusion anyway and unless you're unhappy with the results, there are most likely more severe impacts than the accuracy of the nozzle diameter.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cleaning should be done to some extent. You wouldn't want any visible leftover products from the hotend's production in the extrusion path. Anything that you can't see will most likely be removed easily by the filament and should only be a problem when there are other more significant flaws.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You maybe want to install a heatbreak into the heatsink with lots of thermal paste to transfer the heat as effectively as possible. A defined and short meltzone is key for reliable operation.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You also maybe want to add some thermal paste for the thermistor/thermocouple to ensure quick heat transfer here.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You maybe want to insulate your hotend thermally to not lose heat by dissipation. I asked a question about that process here: &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/q/1247/168&quot;&gt;Efficient and easy way to thermally insulate the heat block of the hotend?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Test whether the filament is easily guided into the heatbreak, so that it doesn't stop being extruded by catching an edge or deforming over one.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check the two valuable answers of TextGeek and Dimitri Modderman, there's good information in them!&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This answer is most likely not complete and totally up for discussion. I appreciate any addtional answers and comments to improve on the topic!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="168" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T13:00:58.447" LastActivityDate="2016-07-04T07:10:44.833" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1476" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1474" CreationDate="2016-07-04T19:10:43.233" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had this occur on my &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/588/is-it-possible-to-use-an-aftermarket-controller-on-a-makerbot&quot;&gt;MakerBot Replicator Dual after I tried repairing a blown voltage regulator&lt;/a&gt;. If you refer to the previous link to my SE question, pay attention to the comments of Ryan's answer where it is explained that (in my case at least) the main processor was damaged and therefore couldn't properly load the firmware. The machine was able to load just enough to initialize the chip on the LCD screen, but since the main boards processor was blown, couldn't load the firmware to send commands to the screen and continue the boot sequence.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not certain that you're encountering the same EXACT issue, but you have all of the same side effects that I did. Basically, if you're not pro with electronics, your board is bricked. Otherwise, you &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;might&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; be able to salvage the board by replacing the processor, but there's no guarantee that something else isn't wrong or that the new processor was installed correctly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="98" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T13:00:58.447" LastActivityDate="2016-07-04T19:10:43.233" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1477" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1481" CreationDate="2016-07-04T21:53:18.823" Score="9" ViewCount="575" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to obtain a 3D model of my insoles. I tried to scan it with 123D catch but finding reference points is difficult because the insole is black.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How could I improve the scanning? I attach a photo of the insole to show its not easy shape.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I thought about placing a grid of white spots on the surface, but will it be enough?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, is it recommended to keep the camera still and rotate the object (I have a rotating stand) or should I move the camera? in the second case, the accuracy of the photos will be lower, while rotating 5-10 degrees the stand every time is extremely easy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As background should I use a checkerboard or something else not repetitive?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I noticed that the insole has basically three different &quot;levels&quot;, joined smoothly with each other. These &quot;planes&quot; are sloped the same way, so that if I change the pitch of the insole by about 10 degrees, they will be horizontal. Would it improve the accuracy?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: the insole is perfectly new, newer worn before.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ziQp5.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ziQp5.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I dotted the insole with white paint (the white eraser paint used in office and school) and I took a series of photos with the insole in top of a tripod, laying on a flat white cardboard support. 55 photos in total at 3 different elevations (side, medium, high). I also did a test with fixed camera and rotating object.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Photoscan did not work well in general. Keeping the object fixed produces the best results, but poor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;123D Catch did a much better job! again with fixed object and moving camera. Still, treating the resulting mesh was difficult and the accuracy could be improved.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Autodesk Remake 2017 worked VERY well, as you can see in the attached screenshot, and it allows the editing of the mesh to remove useless parts of the model. I haven't tried yet to process the photos with the camera fixed and the rotating object. I did the processing locally (it's slow!) with maximum details and resolution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gKzja.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gKzja.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2338" LastEditorUserId="2338" LastEditDate="2016-07-23T21:27:25.283" LastActivityDate="2016-07-23T21:27:25.283" Title="How to optimally make a 3D model of an object using photos?" Tags="|scanning|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1478" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1492" CreationDate="2016-07-04T22:48:21.577" Score="4" ViewCount="335" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sainsmart.com/sainsmart-mechanical-endstop-for-cnc-3d-printer-reprap-makerbot-prusa-mendel-ramps.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Sainsmart Mechanical End Stops&lt;/a&gt;, and I'm building a Prusa i3 Rework.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've recently gotten the x-axis to move, but it needs to stop when it gets to the end and it does not do that; I end up having to pull the plug.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From what I understand, there are two ways to wire ends stops in general, but you have to change the settings in the firmware to make it work right.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are 3 connectors on the board:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;S (signal)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;- (ground)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;+ (VCC)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My Sainsmart Mechanical End Stops have 4 connectors!!!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to their website, left to right with the white connector facing you, they are as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HgjIA.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HgjIA.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;S&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Normally Closed (NC)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Normally Open (NO)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;VCC&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now it seems to me that if I take those connections and connect them as follows it should work...(ramps on the left, sainsmart end stop on the right):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;S (signal) -&gt; S&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;- (ground) -&gt; Normally Open (NO)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;+ (VCC) -&gt; VCC&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;nothing&lt;/em&gt; -&gt; Normally Closed (NC)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;...but!  Screwing this up by either using the wrong firmware of selecting the wrong wire frys your board, so I thought I'd ask here.  Sources please.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastActivityDate="2016-07-07T18:56:32.043" Title="Connecting Sain Smart Mechanical End Stops to Ramps 1.4?" Tags="|ramps-1.4|prusa-i3-rework|marlin|firmware|endstop|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1480" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1483" CreationDate="2016-07-04T23:50:08.490" Score="7" ViewCount="5193" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been looking into this, but:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I'm not certain how to configure my multimeter; &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I don't know how to keep the voltage going, and;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I don't know how to keep the multimeter connected to the VMOT?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm told you're supposed to aim for about 1&amp;nbsp;A.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2017-06-13T11:40:15.653" LastActivityDate="2017-06-13T11:40:15.653" Title="How do you make sure you have the right voltage on the trimpots on an A4988 stepper driver?" Tags="|prusa-i3-rework|multi-meter|stepper-driver|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1481" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1477" CreationDate="2016-07-05T00:08:02.300" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Usually, the largest variability in 3D imaging is lighting, closely followed by the color scheme. You'll probably want to heed some of the following points:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;No colors in the background/stand, keep to shades (unless otherwise specified for scanner)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;No gradients. This applies to poor lighting causing a &quot;gradient&quot; light effect&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Set the backdrop beyond the range of the scanner if possible (like with Skanect w/ Microsoft Kinect)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ideally set the backdrop and especially the stand in contrast with the color of the object.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You're right, a typical 3D scanner will have a difficult time with darker colors due to physics. However, there are no rules that say you can't change the color of the object.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this application, &lt;strong&gt;I would suggest just going ahead and spray painting the object and scanning it&lt;/strong&gt;. Scanning the insole is going to require super tight tolerances in scanning as I'm assuming the insole is naturally worn due to use. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Completely alternatively from 3D scanning, you could try using a 3D touch probe like on a CMM (Coordinate Measuring Machine). It will take longer, but a touch probe doesn't care what color the object is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The touch probe comment seems to be a hit, so I'll elaborate. My experience with touch probes comes only from manufacturing technology and can be found and in a variety of different machine tools:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mills&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lathes&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;CMMs&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Vision Systems&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&quot;Romer&quot; Arms (aka portable CMM)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could probably get away with searching for a local machine shop (or job shop) and asking if they have a machine for reverse engineering. The quickest and easiest machine for reverse engineering (in my experience) is a portable CMM, I recommend Googling it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively, I've heard of people adding touch probes to their 3D Printers, but I haven't seen it before. In theory, a basic touch probe can easily be achieved by using a momentary switch. If you're good with programming and maybe a bit of Arduino, you could do the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Add momentary (normally off) switch to Arduino &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Find a way of attaching the switch (below nozzles)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Connect to your 3d printer in your preferred method and preferred programming language. I've used the provided libraries in Python that come with installing MakerWare in order to connect to my MakerBot.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Write your routine to sequentially move the new probe in a grid pattern and then incrementally move the Z up until you get a signal from your Arduino that the momentary has been switched on.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;For each trigger, append a simple text file with a new line containing the coordinates.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;once complete, you should have a &quot;point cloud&quot; of your insole which, if formatted correctly, will be able to import into CAD software&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a few file types off the top of my head that can be used including:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;.pts&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;.XYZ&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;.CSV&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="98" LastEditorUserId="98" LastEditDate="2016-07-05T13:09:06.560" LastActivityDate="2016-07-05T13:09:06.560" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1482" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1383" CreationDate="2016-07-05T04:51:34.380" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have contacted Dan Kirshner (the author of openscad threads library) and he has updated the library. Now it supports tapered threads. Thanks, Dan!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://dkprojects.net/openscad-threads/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Thread-drawing modules for OpenSCAD&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2189" LastActivityDate="2016-07-05T04:51:34.380" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1483" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1480" CreationDate="2016-07-05T05:18:25.527" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Generally speaking voltage on stepstick output should be around 1V. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To imagine more or less what the current and what the voltage is, you can think about it in the same way as about water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The wire is more or less the same as the pipe.&#xA;The voltage can be imagined as (sort of) the height from which the water flows but the current can be imagined as an amount of water which flows. To simplify things we assume that all our pipes are closed into circuit and we have pump/battery and we have a motor which is a reverted pump ;) and finally we have our stepstick which is a tap in our model.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So no matter what the height (voltage) is we know that tap (stepstick) will pass some amount (current) of water. We can drive it turning tap or turning a potentiometer on the stepstick PCB.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So we got it. Principles (deadly simplified) are now clear. &lt;a href=&quot;https://learn.sparkfun.com/tutorials/voltage-current-resistance-and-ohms-law/voltage&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;See here for more details&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Getting back to your question. &#xA;You have to know what is your stepstick reference voltage. To make sure about that you have to check out resistor(s) next to main black element on stepstick board. There should be R100 or R200 which are very common.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now you should read data from motor label to know what is proper current for your motor and calculate&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;voltage = motor_current * 8 * resistance_of_resistor&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So now you know what is proper voltage for your motor and stepstick.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You measure voltage between potentiometer and GND (see on the picture)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6LnbU.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6LnbU.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you set and connect everything and start printouts you should check motor temperature. Use your finger. If you can touch motor and hold your finger not more than half a second then probably the voltage set on potentiometer is too high (motor can reach 80° Celsius and it's fine but more will shorten its life span) and you should reduce it a bit (reduce by 5/100 V). If you notice that motor growls or barks then your voltage is probably too low and you can increase it by 5/100V.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Too high current will also reduce longevity of stepstick so cool them out with fan.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;b&gt;Please be noticed.&lt;/b&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Z-axis motors will usually be not too hot as they work less than X and Y but as they are both connected to one stepstick so they need more current - set higher voltage there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a &lt;a href=&quot;http://reprap.org/wiki/Stepstick&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;reprap.org site&lt;/a&gt; to get basic knowledge about stepsticks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1211" LastEditorUserId="854" LastEditDate="2016-08-01T22:45:16.660" LastActivityDate="2016-08-01T22:45:16.660" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1484" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1480" CreationDate="2016-07-05T09:02:51.253" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to add some points and clarifications to the answer that @darthpixel already has given. Most information you need is in there, I want to give some more practical advice, since that is what I understand you're question is asking for. I'll start with some points on the more theoretical side, though:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;notice that the Vref is not a voltage that is passed on to your motor. The described pipe analogy is very good, but the Vref is outside of this analogy. The reference voltage Vref is only used to set the current limit. This seems confusing, but has electronic reasons. One can understand the major (side-)benefit easily: Voltages are very easy to measure externally, because you connect your voltmeter in parallel. If you wouldd want to measure the current, you would need to get your ammeter in series with the circuit.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The stepsticks work by supplying the needed current for movement of the motor (current, because it works by creating magnetic fields), the voltage the stepstick supplies is 'just' supplied as high as needed to feed the desired current through your motor (determined by its resistivity/impedance). This just as an add-on.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now to the practical side and the application of darthpixel's answer and the above:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You want to measure the reference voltage to limit the current that produces the torque, but also heats up the motor - let darthpixel's advice be your guide: if you can't touch it because it is too hot, then there is too much current, i.e. Vref is too high). To do so:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Set your multimeter to volts, range can be autorange or something bigger than 2V.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Connect one lead of your multimeter to the ground of your Prusa i3 controller board's power input (I use the screw that fastens the ground input of the RAMPS). The other lead goes directly to the center of the trimpot on the Stepstick. I took the best of my paint skills to create an image showing the process: &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6cCzl.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6cCzl.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;measure Vref scheme&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Note the value you read (12V power has to be on)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use an insulated screwdriver and turn the trimpot slightly.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Get a new reading by repeating the measurement process.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Repeat the whole process until you get the desired Vref.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Warning: While I've had no problems turning the trimpot while everything was switched on (with my DRV8825 drivers), you should switch the power supply off when doing so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The described process allows only for a stepwise and rather slow setting of the Vref, but this is the easiest way I've found. I have read of people that use a crocodile clamp to attach the multimeter to the screwdriver for a readout while turning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't have any idea whether you need more or less current on the motor at the moment, check your resistors on the board and calculate the Vref you should need (see darthpixel's answer for the formula). I would however just do what darthpixel already suggested: figure out the trimpot position by ears and touch: klicking motor: go to higher Vref. Can't touch the motor for more than some seconds: go to lower Vref. It might be a lengthy process, but in the end you'd need to do it anyway to get the best out of the printer!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="168" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:29:41.667" LastActivityDate="2016-08-02T09:23:35.373" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1485" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1465" CreationDate="2016-07-05T20:20:20.343" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Y-Max setting does not help, because it is the software end stop for the  other end of the axis.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Y Home position also doesn't help as it only changes the coordinate that the printer assumes for when it hits the home position. That is used for printers (like deltas) that home to the max end switches.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What could help is a little bit of G-Code right after the Homing. The Homing is a G28. Just add a G1Y10 after that. That will move your Y Axis 10 mm right after homing. So it will then be in the position that you want. If you then add a G92 then this position will become the home position for the print. So adding these two lines should fix it. Cura lets you edit these start G-Codes so that it then will automatically add the modified codes to all your prints.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also try a G10 (with a firmware that supports it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For Details on G-Codes see:  &lt;a href=&quot;http://reprap.org/wiki/Gcode&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://reprap.org/wiki/Gcode&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="204" LastActivityDate="2016-07-05T20:20:20.343" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1486" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1477" CreationDate="2016-07-05T22:06:22.580" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't have enough reputation to comment.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a short pointer to another webpage:  &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.sculpteo.com/blog/2016/01/20/turning-a-picture-into-a-3d-model/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://www.sculpteo.com/blog/2016/01/20/turning-a-picture-into-a-3d-model/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;It may be helpful.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2043" LastActivityDate="2016-07-05T22:06:22.580" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1487" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1465" CreationDate="2016-07-06T10:11:23.980" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Now I've finally had time to look into this, since I knew it somehow existed, but wasn't sure how it worked:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Use the M206 G-code command in Marlin, Sprinter, Smoothie, or RepRap Firmware to offset the 0,0,0 coordinate of your printbed relative to the endstops.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reprap.org wiki page says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The values specified are added to the endstop position when the axes&#xA;  are referenced. The same can be achieved with a G92 right after homing&#xA;  (G28, G161).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;With Marlin firmware, this value can be saved to EEPROM using the M500&#xA;  command.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A similar command is G10, aligning these two is subject to discussion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;With Marlin 1.0.0 RC2 a negative value for z lifts(!) your printhead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We see, this basically is the same suggested by @LarsPoetter, but it comes with the great advantage that it can be saved to EEPROM, hence you don't need to add it every time or into every different sliccer (if I understand it correctly, - I haven't yet tried it myself)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let us know if this works for a permanent solution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="168" LastActivityDate="2016-07-06T10:11:23.980" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1489" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-07T15:35:27.710" Score="6" ViewCount="2612" Body="&lt;p&gt;I built a delta 3d printer (like a mini Kossel) and now I'm trying to calibrate it. I made all the horizontal and vertical bars myself with wood and I bought angle joints (between bars) made with 3D printed ABS.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It passes all tests in Z correction tools calibration. I used a z-probe (with manual deploying) to calibrate it with &lt;code&gt;G32&lt;/code&gt; and &lt;code&gt;G33&lt;/code&gt; commands.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now I'm trying to calibrate the distortion that takes place on the x and y axes.&#xA;Basically what happens is that in a test cube of &lt;strong&gt;10x10x10mm&lt;/strong&gt; it is translated on x and y axes at some points in the corners.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Below an explanatory image:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/c3CRQ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/c3CRQ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Schematic overview of skew print&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The dimensions are good (less than half of a mm) but got this bad visible distortion (about 1 mm or less).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a tool or a command in Repetier-host/firmware that corrects this issues?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2343" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-09-27T06:19:49.140" LastActivityDate="2018-09-27T06:19:49.140" Title="Distortion calibration on XY plane in Repetier" Tags="|repetier|repetier-host|delta|kossel|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="1490" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1489" CreationDate="2016-07-07T17:33:13.897" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Skew distortion in deltas means there is something physically wrong with your printer build, such as the towers not being evenly spaced or being tilted. The first thing you should do is confirm the mechanical build -- measure the distance between towers, angles between towers, parallelism of all three towers, and perpendicularity of all three towers to the bed. If you post photos of your build, we might be able to provide more specific advice. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can't get the mechanical issue sorted, it's possible to calibrate out some specific build errors (like skew due to uneven tower angle), but that's nearly impossible to do &quot;by hand.&quot; You really need to use a Z probe and auto-calibration sequence such as in Rich Cattell's Marlin fork or dc42 RepRapFirmware. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="298" LastActivityDate="2016-07-07T17:33:13.897" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1491" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1442" CreationDate="2016-07-07T18:48:26.573" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Instead of using &lt;code&gt;save project as&lt;/code&gt; or &lt;code&gt;export&lt;/code&gt; click &lt;code&gt;save part as&lt;/code&gt;, this defaults to an STL file.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2433" LastEditorUserId="115" LastEditDate="2016-07-08T11:55:03.187" LastActivityDate="2016-07-08T11:55:03.187" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1492" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1478" CreationDate="2016-07-07T18:56:32.043" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The multiple connections are redundant. Your picture indicates the wires labelled as &quot;SIGNAL, GND, GND, VCC&quot;. This is correct if the board is a &quot;standard&quot; mechanical endstop v1.2. The two middle pins are both ground, but you only need to use one of them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can simply connect signal to signal and ground to ground. That is sufficient for the endstop to work. You only need to connect VVC to VVC if you want the LED that's on the board to function.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastActivityDate="2016-07-07T18:56:32.043" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1493" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-09T00:46:05.107" Score="5" ViewCount="519" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a printrbot simple metal with the heated bed upgrade. Its been working fine until Cura updated, now, after the x,y, and z axis zeros, the print starts without moving to the other corners and auto leveling the bed. Does the new version of cura require me to turn the function on or should i try to re flash the printers firmware? Thoughts? Thanks. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;UPDATE&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;using an older version of Cura, the printer auto levels and works as expected. Is there any clue why the new update of cura stops this function?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2445" LastEditorUserId="98" LastEditDate="2018-02-15T19:24:10.067" LastActivityDate="2018-02-15T19:24:10.067" Title="Printrbot simple metal not auto leveling" Tags="|heated-bed|z-axis|bed-leveling|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1496" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-11T02:08:16.220" Score="5" ViewCount="1886" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been using a software called &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;OctoPrint&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; that allows you to control your printer in your Browser. For sake of simplicity I have used &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Octopi&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;, a preinstalled image with OctoPrint, but now I would like to make some changes, and I decided to build OctroPrint by myself, the instructions for building it are here: &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/foosel/OctoPrint/wiki/Setup-on-a-Raspberry-Pi-running-Raspbian&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://github.com/foosel/OctoPrint/wiki/Setup-on-a-Raspberry-Pi-running-Raspbian&lt;/a&gt;. The problem is that when I follow the first commands:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;sudo apt-get update&#xA;sudo apt-get upgrade&#xA;cd ~&#xA;sudo apt-get install python-pip python-dev python-setuptools python-virtualenv git libyaml-dev build-essential&#xA;git clone https://github.com/foosel/OctoPrint.git&#xA;cd OctoPrint&#xA;virtualenv venv&#xA;./venv/bin/pip install pip --upgrade&#xA;./venv/bin/python setup.py install&#xA;mkdir ~/.octoprint&#xA;sudo usermod -a -G tty pi&#xA;sudo usermod -a -G dialout pi&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And then I start the octoprint server&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt; ~/OctoPrint/venv/bin/octoprint&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The webpage of Octoprint freezes&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DDLqa.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DDLqa.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know if this is fixed in later commands, but I would like to get a sense of how all fits together before continue. It doesn't look that is the browser (I am capable to visit other websites without any problems), so is maybe Octoprint? How can I fix this? Did anyone have this problem before? Thanks in advance&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The output in the console is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;2016-07-11 03:09:19,442 - octoprint.server - INFO - Starting OctoPrint 1.2.13 (master branch)&#xA;2016-07-11 03:09:19,502 - octoprint.plugin.core - INFO - Loading plugins from /home/pi/.octoprint/plugins, /home/pi/OctoPrint/venv/lib/python2.7/site-packages/OctoPrint-1.2.13-py2.7.egg/octoprint/plugins and installed plugin packages...&#xA;2016-07-11 03:09:20,522 - octoprint.plugins.discovery - INFO - pybonjour is not installed, Zeroconf Discovery won't be available&#xA;2016-07-11 03:09:20,524 - octoprint.plugin.core - INFO - Found 6 plugin(s) providing 6 mixin implementations, 3 hook handlers&#xA;2016-07-11 03:09:20,533 - octoprint.filemanager.storage - INFO - Initializing the file metadata for /home/pi/.octoprint/uploads...&#xA;2016-07-11 03:09:20,536 - octoprint.filemanager.storage - INFO - ... file metadata for /home/pi/.octoprint/uploads initialized successfully.&#xA;2016-07-11 03:09:23,615 - octoprint.util.pip - INFO - Found pip at /home/pi/OctoPrint/venv/bin/pip, version is 8.1.2&#xA;2016-07-11 03:09:23,620 - octoprint.plugin.core - INFO - Initialized 6 plugin implementation(s)&#xA;2016-07-11 03:09:23,625 - octoprint.plugin.core - INFO - 6 plugin(s) registered with the system:&#xA;|  Announcement Plugin (bundled) = /home/pi/OctoPrint/venv/lib/python2.7/site-packages/OctoPrint-1.2.13-py2.7.egg/octoprint/plugins/announcements&#xA;|  CuraEngine (&amp;lt;= 15.04) (bundled) = /home/pi/OctoPrint/venv/lib/python2.7/site-packages/OctoPrint-1.2.13-py2.7.egg/octoprint/plugins/cura&#xA;|  Discovery (bundled) = /home/pi/OctoPrint/venv/lib/python2.7/site-packages/OctoPrint-1.2.13-py2.7.egg/octoprint/plugins/discovery&#xA;|  Plugin Manager (bundled) = /home/pi/OctoPrint/venv/lib/python2.7/site-packages/OctoPrint-1.2.13-py2.7.egg/octoprint/plugins/pluginmanager&#xA;|  Software Update (bundled) = /home/pi/OctoPrint/venv/lib/python2.7/site-packages/OctoPrint-1.2.13-py2.7.egg/octoprint/plugins/softwareupdate&#xA;|  Virtual Printer (bundled) = /home/pi/OctoPrint/venv/lib/python2.7/site-packages/OctoPrint-1.2.13-py2.7.egg/octoprint/plugins/virtual_printer&#xA;2016-07-11 03:09:23,628 - octoprint.filemanager - INFO - Adding backlog items from all storage types to analysis queue...&#xA;2016-07-11 03:09:23,639 - octoprint.filemanager - INFO - Added 0 items from storage type &quot;local&quot; to analysis queue&#xA;2016-07-11 03:09:23,644 - octoprint.server - INFO - Reset webasset folder /home/pi/.octoprint/generated/webassets...&#xA;2016-07-11 03:09:23,660 - octoprint.server - INFO - Reset webasset folder /home/pi/.octoprint/generated/.webassets-cache...&#xA;2016-07-11 03:09:24,082 - octoprint.plugins.discovery - INFO - Registered OctoPrint instance on raspberrypi for SSDP&#xA;2016-07-11 03:09:24,095 - octoprint.plugins.pluginmanager - INFO - Loaded plugin repository data from disk, was still valid&#xA;2016-07-11 03:09:24,135 - octoprint.server - INFO - Listening on http://0.0.0.0:5000&#xA;2016-07-11 03:09:24,602 - octoprint.plugins.announcements - INFO - Loaded channel _important from http://octoprint.org/feeds/important.xml in 0.43s&#xA;2016-07-11 03:09:25,271 - octoprint.server - INFO - Preemptively caching / for {'query_string': 'en', 'path': '/', 'base_url': 'http://0.0.0.0:5000/'}&#xA;2016-07-11 03:09:59,143 - octoprint.server.util.sockjs - INFO - New connection from client: 127.0.0.1&#xA;2016-07-11 03:09:59,884 - octoprint.plugins.cura - INFO - Path to CuraEngine has not been configured yet or does not exist (currently set to None), Cura will not be selectable for slicing&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1814" LastEditorUserId="1814" LastEditDate="2016-07-11T03:14:04.200" LastActivityDate="2016-08-17T14:57:36.350" Title="OctoPrint webpage freezes (Setup on a Raspberry Pi running Raspbian)" Tags="|prusa-i3|octoprint|raspberry-pi|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1497" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-11T08:29:43.950" Score="7" ViewCount="11333" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm currently designing a very large and complicated model, because it's large and should be strong enough completely hollow I want to print it with no infill to save material.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, there are some points in the model where there are indentations in the top shell.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bottom of those indentations are lower then the surrounding shell (pretty mush the dictionary definition of indentation) and so they are printed earlier with nothing to connect to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, in the image below from Cura's layer view you can see two round surfaces just hanging in mid air&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/d4Rrm.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/d4Rrm.png&quot; alt=&quot;Surface in mid air&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously this can't be printed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I'm currently doing is designing internal spaces inside the model where the internal space shell is holding the &quot;detached&quot; surfaces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I want is a mostly automatic process that will generate a support structure inside where needed or that will generate infill but only between the floating surface and the nearest solid shell below it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Reorienting the model is not an option because a. it wouldn't fit on the build plate and b. even if it did it has a lot of internal parts with different orientations so it would just move the problem from one part of the model to another. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I usually use SketchUp for designing and Cura for slicing so I prefer something I can do in Cura - but since I strongly suspect this can't be done in Cura I'll accept answers that work with other tools&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="170" LastActivityDate="2017-07-30T10:06:57.337" Title="How to add internal supports/localized infill, preferably in Cura?" Tags="|3d-design|support-structures|infill|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1498" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1497" CreationDate="2016-07-11T09:29:30.033" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not really sure if i get you right but it seems like you gotta switch on support material. That's all. Correct me if I'm wrong but it sounds like very common situation where some parts are hanging like your yellow disks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Otherwise if your model is going to be closed at the bottom and at the top you can mock support on your own to have better control of it. How? Just add hollow cylinders under your disk so in fact cylinder will stay on the bottom layer then its walls will be support and finally your yellow disk will be a top cover of the cylinder. I hopw you can imagine that properly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another way is to design support elements wich would grow out of walls and this way support your disks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/p9Z7F.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/p9Z7F.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maybe if you would explain a bit more, what the model is then I could support you more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;[edit]&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To make it more automatic, you could try to use parametric CAD apps. I would say, Autodesk Inventor is one which I can suggest. You can use for example its Ribs functionality as support (varsion C).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;[edit2]&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After Tormod Haugene's and tbm0115's comments I decided to fill some gaps in my answer. Here go pros and cons of options A, B and C.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;option A&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The simplest one and more or less automatic one. Which means when user add support then this option will be a result of it. Of course if user needs to have support only for the disk but over the disk there will be... a &quot;ceiling&quot; then option A cannot use regular support as it will generate a support also for the ceiling. For such situation user needs to add a cylinder manually (filled one) or&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;option B&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;User can add hollow cyliner (just its walls). This option can give similar or higher stiffness as regular support because solid walls increase endurance tahn thin support grid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;option C&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This option (my personal choose) has some advantages unavailable in A or B option. First - support doesn't have to have &quot;ground&quot; base. It means the yellow disk can really hang even if there is no bottom layer at all. Second - it joins walls with disk and walls together so the stiffness concerns other surfaces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on needs the cylinder (option A or B) can be transformed into a cross or pillar (thinner than cylinder itself). It can be more taper expandint to the top or to the bottom.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There could be even option where the above one would be joined with option C. So these (3) ribs would raise from the bottom but not from the walls.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1211" LastEditorUserId="1211" LastEditDate="2016-07-11T20:14:47.990" LastActivityDate="2016-07-11T20:14:47.990" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1499" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1497" CreationDate="2016-07-11T11:56:55.333" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;In &lt;a href=&quot;http://slic3r.org/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Slic3r&lt;/a&gt;, this can be solved by selecting a suited infill pattern and density, while enabling the &lt;a href=&quot;http://manual.slic3r.org/expert-mode/infill-optimization&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;only infill where needed&lt;/a&gt;-option:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Personally, I have found the &lt;a href=&quot;http://manual.slic3r.org/expert-mode/infill&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;concentric infill pattern&lt;/a&gt; to provide good support for models with internal overhang, although other patterns might work as well. I would try different patterns at ~30% infill and inspect the result in the print previewer. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The option of using &lt;a href=&quot;http://manual.slic3r.org/expert-mode/infill-optimization&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;only infill where needed&lt;/a&gt; will generate internal supports where needed without filling the entire model. That could be what you are looking for. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="115" LastEditorUserId="115" LastEditDate="2016-12-30T08:23:07.537" LastActivityDate="2016-12-30T08:23:07.537" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1502" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1493" CreationDate="2016-07-11T23:45:42.497" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;See if you can check what the starting G-Code is. I havn't used Cura but what I think has changed for you is that your new software is homing just using the G28 command and not the G29 command.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think if you can look into your slicer settings you will find an option to change what the starting gcode is and you will probably want to change it to something like this&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;G28 X0 Y0&#xA;G28 Z0&#xA;G29&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1476" LastActivityDate="2016-07-11T23:45:42.497" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1503" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1508" CreationDate="2016-07-12T08:08:41.043" Score="9" ViewCount="3487" Body="&lt;p&gt;At the moment, I am thinking about print fans that cool the plastic when printing. I am not asking about the design of the fanducts, which might be a whole book on its own. I would like to know how to find out the best application of print cooling for a given PLA filament, - that is fan speeds and setup in a slicer of your choice (to learn what the different options are).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="168" LastActivityDate="2016-07-21T17:05:08.810" Title="How to utilize/calibrate print fans for PLA?" Tags="|print-quality|heat-management|print-fan|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1504" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1503" CreationDate="2016-07-12T08:48:57.577" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use side-wind to cool down model as simple as possible. It's just a 12cm in diam fan which is driven from arduino (the same contacts as the fan next to the nozzle). No duct, no other stuff. The only thing I consider in terms of making things better is to set up 2 fans which could coll down model from both sides.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The issue is that when model is more complex then cool air is not reaching out oll these crannies and then on some corners I see the difference. Because of this issue I have to orient model facing to the fan in the way which will decrease such effect and I'm usually happy with results. If you are able to imagine how the airflow behaves then you can achieve perfection :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course fan is driven but to be honest I usually use 100% of its blowing power except with first layer which I usually don't blow at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1211" LastActivityDate="2016-07-12T08:48:57.577" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1505" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1506" CreationDate="2016-07-12T10:31:05.890" Score="7" ViewCount="8001" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am using a BAUDrate of 115200 since I cannot make a connection to my printer with the advised 250000 rate. Are there any downsides or limits I reach earlier given by the lower BAUDrate?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="168" LastEditorUserId="168" LastEditDate="2016-07-13T12:38:32.553" LastActivityDate="2020-11-30T20:34:00.030" Title="What is the influence of a lower BAUDrate?" Tags="|electronics|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1506" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1505" CreationDate="2016-07-12T11:56:39.877" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://learn.sparkfun.com/tutorials/serial-communication/rules-of-serial&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Baud rate&lt;/a&gt; is the rate at which information is transferred in a communication channel, given as a number of bits per second (bps). So a baud rate of 250000 is capable of transferring a &lt;em&gt;maximum&lt;/em&gt; of 250000 bits per second (31250 bytes/s). When working with serial ports, both ends of the communication line will have to &amp;quot;talk&amp;quot; with the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.quora.com/How-do-we-connect-two-devices-with-different-baud-rates&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;same speed&lt;/a&gt; - the same baud rate - to understand each other.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So when using a baud rate of 11520 you will theoretically be limited to transfer data with about half the speed of 25000. If you are transferring large amounts of data, this might be a limiting factor for your application, but if you are not pushing the limits of your serial port, it probably won't matter at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="115" LastEditorUserId="25500" LastEditDate="2020-11-29T23:35:01.070" LastActivityDate="2020-11-29T23:35:01.070" CommentCount="13" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="1507" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1505" CreationDate="2016-07-12T12:06:49.697" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If your printer doesn't have an SD card then the whole communication between computer and arduino is performed &quot;live&quot;. There is kinda buffer of data which arduino can swallow. Then it needs to process it (and then can send some reports to your app) and then arduino is ready to get new &quot;set&quot; of instructions to work on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now. If a baudrate is to low then there could be a situation when arduino finishes its job and has to wait for new bite of data. In such a situation you can see the printer pauses printing as it waits for signals from arduino as it waits for data from computer. That's more or less a downside of a low baudrate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have a SD card then the data is sucked from it but reports are still send by port to show results on screen. In such situation you can see sligtly late screen update.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A screen means just a fun of live preview but breaking printing process (caused by late data send) means your hot nozzle stays over the same position which can destruct a surface or even fry up a plastic a bit. It also oozes and therefore creates lasting artifacts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Resuming - low baudrate is evil ;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1211" LastEditorUserId="204" LastEditDate="2016-07-12T18:44:49.853" LastActivityDate="2016-07-12T18:44:49.853" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1508" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1503" CreationDate="2016-07-12T18:03:25.383" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Everybody's combination of fan hardware and print settings is different. Unless someone else has the exact same printer and slicer profiles as you, there's no way to really say anything like &quot;use X% for PLA&quot; or whatever. For practical purposes, you just empirically figure it out with test prints based on a few simple rules of thumb:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Use lots of cooling for PLA, moderate cooling for PETG, and minimal cooling for ABS.&lt;/strong&gt; (Note that sometimes ABS does benefit from gentle airflow, and PLA shouldn't necessarily always just be blasted at max power.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Use less cooling on big prints where each layer takes a long time, more cooling on small prints where each layer is very quick.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Axial / box fan? You'll probably want to run it at full power. Radial / squirrel cage blower? You may want to run lower power. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Overhangs curling up or sagging? More airflow may be needed.&lt;/strong&gt; (Lower layer heights also help enormously.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Hot end temp sagging when the fan kicks on? Try less airflow.&lt;/strong&gt; (Or insulate your hot block better.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Weak layer bonding? Try less airflow.&lt;/strong&gt; (Or raise your hot end temp.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Small, fast prints getting mushy or corners &quot;pulling in&quot;? You need more airflow.&lt;/strong&gt; (Or lower heatbed temps.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Print warping / corners lifting off the bed? Try less airflow, particularly on the lowest few layers.&lt;/strong&gt; (Or higher heatbed temps, or a better adhesion layer, or less nozzle/bed gap for the first layer, or any other approach.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Fan too noisy? Try less airflow.&lt;/strong&gt; (Or get a better fan.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Filament stringing during travel moves? Try less airflow pointed directly at the nozzle.&lt;/strong&gt; (Or tune your retraction settings better, or get the moisture out of your filament, or lower hot end temp.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="298" LastEditorUserId="168" LastEditDate="2016-07-12T21:22:52.743" LastActivityDate="2016-07-12T21:22:52.743" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1511" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1513" CreationDate="2016-07-15T19:49:40.867" Score="8" ViewCount="540" Body="&lt;p&gt;I tried printing from an STL file on the &lt;em&gt;QIDI TECHNOLOGY 3DP-QDA16-01 Dual Extruder Desktop 3D Printer QIDI TECH I&lt;/em&gt;. They recommend using the MakerBot software with the &lt;em&gt;Replicator(Dual)&lt;/em&gt; profile. The 3D print that I tried is messed up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The material used is &lt;strong&gt;PLA&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could you help me determine the cause? The following pictures give more details:&#xA;(&lt;em&gt;All settings which are not shown are Makerware default settings&lt;/em&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Abvj2m.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;1&lt;/a&gt;  &lt;strong&gt;The 3D model&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Abvj2m.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Abvj2m.png&quot; alt=&quot;The 3D Model&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zmWnrm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;2&lt;/a&gt;  &lt;strong&gt;The printed sample&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zmWnrm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zmWnrm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;The printed sample&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/viQoPm.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;3&lt;/a&gt;  &lt;strong&gt;The Settings&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/viQoPm.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/viQoPm.png&quot; alt=&quot;Settings&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/l3b7om.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/l3b7om.png&quot; alt=&quot;Settings&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="870" LastEditorUserId="98" LastEditDate="2016-08-08T14:19:53.647" LastActivityDate="2016-08-08T14:19:53.647" Title="Irregular 3D printed part" Tags="|pla|print-quality|makerbot|makerware|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1512" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1043" CreationDate="2016-07-15T20:36:29.967" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Anton, I parse the G-code and build a finite element model and a thermal transient event to simulate the printing of the part, followed by a structural simulation to determine the deformation and stress state in the resulting part. This part could then be further analyzed with external loads to determine mechanical characteristics. I use ANSYS software and the element birth &amp;amp; death capability to activate a small volume of material per each thermal transient step. The structural sim is static but also done at the same time steps as the thermal transient. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1013" LastActivityDate="2016-07-15T20:36:29.967" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1513" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1511" CreationDate="2016-07-15T20:41:02.023" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your print isn't cooling fast enough. With small, thin prints like this, PLA needs a fair bit of airflow to solidify before the next layer goes down. Your printer doesn't appear to have a proper print-cooling fan, so I have two suggestions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Print two or even three of the part at the same time, spaced a fair distance apart on the build plate. This will give each of them time to cool.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Point a box fan into the front of the printer to get good airflow over the print.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="298" LastActivityDate="2016-07-15T20:41:02.023" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1515" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-16T16:18:53.010" Score="6" ViewCount="3840" Body="&lt;p&gt;Because of the weight of my Z-axis and the relative ease of its motion, when the Z-axis motor is powered down the bed has a tendency to slip and fall down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously leaving the motor powered solves this problem, but that is not ideal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am looking for some kind of solution that passively stops the Z-axis motor from slipping; some kind of brake or clutch. Ideally I'm looking for something that I can add onto my current motors and that I could print myself. Commercial solutions (preferably ones that could be replicated with a 3D printer) would also make valid answers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastActivityDate="2016-07-24T03:00:19.060" Title="How to keep Z-axis motor from slipping when powered down" Tags="|z-axis|stepper|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1516" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1515" CreationDate="2016-07-16T17:12:22.060" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The simple way to do this is to use a self-locking screw pitch. Pretty much any single-start thread using a sliding nut cannot be back-driven so the load will not fall. Normal 8x8 trapezoidal thread screws will easily back-drive because of the steep pitch. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Likewise, a worm drive between the motor and Z stage will hold the load. You would want to switch from screws to belts for the main motion stage in that case though, to avoid having too much total gear reduction. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both of these solutions will limit your maximum Z speed, of course. But they're simple and reliable. Clutches and brakes add a lot of complexity and must be actuated somehow. Designers who want the load to stay suspended almost always simply use single-start screws. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="298" LastActivityDate="2016-07-16T17:12:22.060" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1517" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1515" CreationDate="2016-07-16T20:56:25.710" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The first, the simplest and the chippest solution (as described by Ryan Carlyle) is to use self locking screw - no doubt. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I understand you already have your printer. Changing screw (thread rod) is a bit complicated I suppose. As it also needs to change &quot;nuts&quot; and change control settings and so on and so on. So in my opinion, in your case, it's much simpler to change motor to &lt;a href=&quot;http://pl.aliexpress.com/item/free-shipping-4-lead-Nema-17-Stepper-Motor-nema-17-step-motor-with-brake-CNC-Laser/32633409852.html?spm=2114.56010508.4.8.R5JQzM&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;one with break&lt;/a&gt; or at least the one with permanent magnets which would hold some torque to support your bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another solution which would also not require to exchange your existing parts is to use kinda ratcher driven by &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.sparkfun.com/products/11015&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;solenoid&lt;/a&gt; which would work as a break when deenergized. Where to install it, how to ensure it will hold your bed or prevent your threded rod from rotating is another issue but all options I suggest doesn't need to destroy your existing construction. They all work as additional part.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you would be so kind and reveal some photos of your design, it would simplify to find proper application of solenoid break.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1211" LastEditorUserId="1211" LastEditDate="2016-07-16T21:05:43.210" LastActivityDate="2016-07-16T21:05:43.210" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1518" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1515" CreationDate="2016-07-16T21:32:13.380" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It should be possible for you to add a counterweight. Pulley at the top, and a string / wire / etc up from the build platform, over the pulley, and back down to a hanging weight. You'll probably want two, one on each side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This won't directly prevent the motor from slipping - but it will lessen the amount of force trying to make the motor slip. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that it will decrease the maximum z-axis acceleration downwards, but will increase the maximum z-axis acceleration upwards. Unfortunately, downwards is the direction that matters for a print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, you could try a circuit to short out the motor when the unit is powered off. The simplest thing would probably be a relay. Note that this could cause issues if the circuit fails in shorted position unless it also disengages the controller input. (This may not be enough to &lt;em&gt;prevent&lt;/em&gt; movement, however, just slow it.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2533" LastActivityDate="2016-07-16T21:32:13.380" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1519" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1522" CreationDate="2016-07-17T20:26:44.100" Score="21" ViewCount="22553" Body="&lt;p&gt;My first and only 3D printer is a Printrbot Simple Metal, which has a hotend that doesn't expose any of its internal parts. Easy for beginners, I suppose: &quot;The hotend is that tube that heats up the plastic and deposits it on the print bed.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7y1yy.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7y1yy.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Printrbot Simple Metal hotend&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SwwW1.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SwwW1.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;More complex looking hotend&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I've been trying to learn more, and many hotends out there don't look quite as simple. My Printrbot hotend probably isn't as simple as it looks, either.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are the parts that make up a hotend, and what do they do?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;(PS: This is a general question, not specifically about the two example hotends above.)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1998" LastEditorUserId="1998" LastEditDate="2016-07-18T21:22:59.533" LastActivityDate="2016-07-18T21:22:59.533" Title="What are the parts that make up a hotend, and what do they do?" Tags="|hotend|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1520" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1523" CreationDate="2016-07-18T02:43:22.077" Score="3" ViewCount="3062" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Monoprice Maker Select, which is a rebranded Wanhao Duplicator I3 V2 (Prusa clone).  I've found that the heated bed temperature values on the LCD are incorrect.  The heater works, and the controller maintains the bed temp just fine, but the temperature reported isn't the true temperature.  When using the PLA preset, with the bed set for 60°C, once the temperature stabilizes at 60°C on the display, I can measure it with a laser thermometer and get a consistent 54°C across the buildplate.  With the ABS preset of 90°C, I read 80°C.  And with the bed set for the maximum value of 120°C, I'm only reading 102-104°C.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've checked these values with the bare aluminum build plate, and I've allowed the temps to stabilize for at least 10 minutes to ensure that I have consistent readings.  I believe the the firmware is using the wrong temperature curve for the thermistor in my device.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had hoped that there was a simple scaling constant that I could adjust, but that doesn't seem to be the case.  I've researched enough to learn that my device is running Repetier 0.91 firmware, and &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/repetier/Repetier-Firmware/wiki/Temperature-control&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this page on temperature control&lt;/a&gt; on the Repetier wiki says that each type of thermistor needs a custom voltage-&gt;temp lookup table, and talks about building a custom table in &quot;configuration.h&quot;.  I've tried to follow this line of research but I feel like I'm going around in circles.  It sounds like I &lt;em&gt;could&lt;/em&gt; build a custom version of the firmware to install on my printer, and in doing so I could potentially specify a better conversion table.  This gives me pause for several reasons:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I haven't found any online reference to other people installing a custom Repetier build on a Wanhao I3.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I have no idea what values to use for the temp conversion table.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I can't even find anyone else reporting my issue.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I'm fairly new to this; I rather not brick my printer, and I haven't found any good guides to installing firmware on the device either.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I'm not convinced this is the right option.  Should I be looking at replacing the thermistor instead?  And if so, what's the correct part?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've also looked into the Melzi board inside the printer hoping for a variable resistor to tweak the thermistor voltage divider, but no such luck, at least in the schematics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I could just live with it; I've been using a 67°C setting to achieve a true 60°C bed temp for PLA, but I'm starting to work with ABS and I'd like the option to get above 100°C bed temp.  Am I on the right track? Suggestions?  I'm still pretty new to the device and 3D printing in general, so I may have overlooked something obvious.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update&lt;/strong&gt;: additional question in light of Tom's answer: what is the expected max actual bed temp achievable on a Wanhao/Monoprice I3?  I'm measuring 100°C with an LCD reading of 120°C, but I'd like to get to 110°C if possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2541" LastEditorUserId="2541" LastEditDate="2016-07-18T12:00:06.670" LastActivityDate="2016-07-18T12:00:06.670" Title="Adjusting Bed Temp values on Monoprice/Wanhao I3 (Repetier Firmware)" Tags="|prusa-i3|heated-bed|repetier|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1521" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1519" CreationDate="2016-07-18T05:48:58.993" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;picture on the left&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This hotend is made out of &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/PEEK&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;PEEK plastics&lt;/a&gt; (beige). It can work in temperature upto 250C. As it is also good heat insulator then it doesn't need to have cooling fan. Red part on this picture is just a cover (insulator) of the heater which heatup nozzle (gold). Black are just wires and connectors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;picture on the right&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This hotend is metal so it needs two things - cooling fan and heat barrier. Beginning fron the left - red wires are connected to (silver) block which is heater itself. Between the block and this round silver part (which is a heatsink) there is heat barrier (thin pipe which is poor heat conductor). Heatsink has plastic funnel (blue) which directs an airflow from fan (black) through heatsink.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1211" LastActivityDate="2016-07-18T05:48:58.993" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1522" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1519" CreationDate="2016-07-18T09:01:30.143" Score="24" Body="&lt;p&gt;This varies by hotend design. The following is a list of components which you might find in a typical hotend, but note that different designs may integrate these components to some extent. For instance, on the J-head the heat block, nozzle and heatbreak are all one and the same component whereas on the E3D hotends these are all separate parts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Nozzle&lt;/strong&gt;: This is the part where the filament comes out. It takes in the molten filament (typically as a bead of 1.75mm/3mm) and tapers down to the nozzle size (typically around 0.4mm). These are typically made of brass for its good heat conductivity, but brass is not suitable for printing abrasive materials (such as glow in the dark and metal-filled filaments) so sometimes (hardened) stainless steel is used.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Heater Block&lt;/strong&gt;: Usually made from aluminium, the heater block joins the nozzle to the heat break and holds the heater cartridge and thermistor.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Heater Cartridge&lt;/strong&gt;: most hotends use a ceramic heater cartridge, though some older designs use power resistors or nichrome wire. This component is, as the name suggests, responsible for heating up the hotend. The heat block usually clamps around the heater cartridge to provide good contact.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Thermistor&lt;/strong&gt;: This part senses the temperature of the heat block. It is usually a small glass bead with two wires attached (which are typically insulated with glass fiber or teflon). For high-temperature printing, a thermocouple may be used in stead.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Heat Break&lt;/strong&gt;: this is the part where hot meets cold. It usually takes the form of a thin tube and is made of stainless steel for its low thermal conductivity. The goal is generally to have the transition be as short as possible so as little of the filament is in a molten state as possible. It connects the heat block to the heat sink.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Heat Sink&lt;/strong&gt;: the purpose of the heat sink is to cool down the cold side of the heat break. It is typically cooled with a fan. Most heat sinks also have a standard groove-mount for mounting to your printer. The heat sink usually has grooves to increase its surface area and cooling capability.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Teflon Liner&lt;/strong&gt;: some hotends have a PTFE liner that guides the filament through the heat break into the nozzle. This makes it easier to print PLA, but compared to an all-metal hotend, limits the temperatures at which you can print (making it difficult to print PETG and impossible to print polycarbonate).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The ubis hotend you mentioned is a bit simpler than this, and simply uses a big chunk of PEEK in place of the heat break/sink. PEEK has very low thermal conductivity and thus passive cooling is sufficient. However, PEEK limits the temperatures at which you can print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is an illustration outlining these components on an E3D V6 hotend:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cjuNi.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cjuNi.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that in this image the Teflon liner only goes into the heat sink, and not into the heat break or block. This means the maximum temperature is not limited by the Teflon, but if it did go all the way in (as is the case with, for instance, the Lite6) then it would be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastEditorUserId="26" LastEditDate="2016-07-18T17:43:28.960" LastActivityDate="2016-07-18T17:43:28.960" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1523" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1520" CreationDate="2016-07-18T11:25:47.217" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is completely normal for the surface of the bed to be cooler than the indicated temperature. The thermistor goes on the underside of the bed, near the heating traces. The top of the bed (which is further away from the heating traces) will naturally be cooler.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It would be possible, though a lot of work, to build a custom thermistor table that more accurately reflects the surface of the bed, though that means your thermistor table will no longer reflect the characteristics of your thermistor, but instead reflect the particular circumstances under which you build your custom table (which would be affected by ambient temperature, any drafts, ...).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The accuracy of an infrared laser thermometer depends on the characteristics of the surface you're measuring for, so unless you adjusted the thermometer specifically to measure the aluminium surface of the bed, it's possible your thermometer is off as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The exact temperature of your bed doesn't matter anyways (you just need it approximately in the right ballpark) so I would suggest to just live with it. The 60C/90C figures are &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; supposed to be for the surface of the bed. They're meant to reflect the temperature reported by the printer. That said, 90C is a bit low for printing ABS (but the bed/power supply on your printer might not be powerful enough to get any higher).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastActivityDate="2016-07-18T11:25:47.217" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1526" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1527" CreationDate="2016-07-19T13:45:51.487" Score="8" ViewCount="422" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can anyone tell me where to connect a cooling fan on the Sanguinololu v1.3a board?  A few of the information pages mention three PWM outputs: Extruder, bed heater and fan, but none of the wiring diagrams that I can find, actually show the connections for the fan.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2565" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2017-02-13T16:39:13.580" LastActivityDate="2017-02-13T16:39:13.580" Title="Sanguinololu 1.3a fan connection" Tags="|cooling|fans|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1527" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1526" CreationDate="2016-07-19T17:24:57.273" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It appears that there isn't an &quot;out-of-the-box&quot; solution to your request, but luck is with you. Someone with your board and objective has posted what appears to be a reasonable modification:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.instructables.com/id/Add-a-Cooling-Fan-to-your-Rep-Rap-Sanguinololu/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.instructables.com/id/Add-a-Cooling-Fan-to-your-Rep-Rap-Sanguinololu/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastActivityDate="2016-07-19T17:24:57.273" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1528" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-20T08:12:55.760" Score="6" ViewCount="5393" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there a reasonable way of approximating the volume of material used for 3D print by knowing only the STL file volume and infill percentage?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or what is the formula for calculating the exact volume and which parameters can be fixed to reasonable values?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can this be done easily using &lt;a href=&quot;http://slic3r.org/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Slic3r&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/Ultimaker/CuraEngine&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;CuraEngine&lt;/a&gt; in command line?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Note:&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;Supposedly 3Dhubs use Cura[*] software to calculate the print volume.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any help is appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[*] www.3dhubs.com/talk/thread/calculate-print-volume&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2579" LastEditorUserId="2579" LastEditDate="2016-07-21T10:40:53.897" LastActivityDate="2016-07-21T10:40:53.897" Title="How to calculate the approximate volume of material used in 3d print?" Tags="|slicing|slic3r|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1529" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1511" CreationDate="2016-07-20T22:16:19.657" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I agree with &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/1511/irregular-3d-printed-part/1513#1513&quot;&gt;RyanCarlyle&lt;/a&gt; on this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Your print isn't cooling fast enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please regard &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/540/mushy-small-top-layers/541#541&quot;&gt;this answer&lt;/a&gt; of mine that covers a few options to help with the issue you're encountering. Pay particular attention to the &lt;em&gt;layer times&lt;/em&gt;, and &lt;em&gt;active cooling&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The essential take-away from my answer &lt;sup&gt;(linked above)&lt;/sup&gt; is this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Increase Layer Times&lt;/strong&gt;. Increasing &lt;strong&gt;Minimum Layer Duration&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;sub&gt;(Device Settings -&gt; Minimum Layer Duration)&lt;/sub&gt; will provide the material with more time to naturally cool down closer to its environment's temperature. What this does is ensure that the latest layer is &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;mostly&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; solid before the machine begins printing the next molten layer. If you don't let the previous layer of plastic solidify enough, then plastic gets pushed/pulled around when the machine moves, adding more plastic; thus resulting in the issue you see in your images. The caveat with this approach is the obvious impact on the overall runtime of your print and should ideally be done more or less as a last resort.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Active Cooling&lt;/strong&gt;. Active cooling is typically done using an additional fan, often times mounted directly in front of the extruder. The act of active cooling provides a quicker and more direct means of cooling the printed plastic. However, depending on machine design, you may see more variability on other places such as dependability in extrusion temperatures. This can be more detrimental with cheaper spools of PLA and especially poorly designed machines that can't properly maintain extruder temperatures. Active cooling is, however, very common and seems to work for the majority of 3D printer enthusiasts and doesn't impede on runtime.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="98" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T13:00:58.447" LastActivityDate="2016-07-20T22:21:44.703" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1530" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1528" CreationDate="2016-07-21T10:37:36.023" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Possible way to calculate the volume of &lt;em&gt;material used&lt;/em&gt; is to multiply the filament length (calculated by CURA after slicing and displayed in lower right corner) and surface of filament tip.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Volume = Filament_length * ( Filament_diameter / 2 )^2 * PI&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course do not forget to convert all values to the same order of magnitude (e.g. cm³).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2579" LastActivityDate="2016-07-21T10:37:36.023" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1531" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="470" CreationDate="2016-07-21T11:39:44.920" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;After the first leveling, I usually don't need to touch it for long time, even if my bed structure is of wood and could warp in time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I guess you need to adjust it because you turn on the heating and in the meanwhile do the leveling. Do it when the bed is hot and stable for 5 minutes and you'll see it will stay correct between prints.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keep in mind that, in my case, the temperature changes the position of the extruder as well: do the leveling when everything is hot, even if without filament inserted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: if you print both ABS and PLA, a single leveling done at an intermediate temperature will be enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, be sure that the screws don't move due to vibrations. I used a foam washer to keep them in position. It warps during the first hours of application and then provides good friction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2338" LastEditorUserId="2338" LastEditDate="2016-07-25T12:14:54.420" LastActivityDate="2016-07-25T12:14:54.420" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1532" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="505" CreationDate="2016-07-21T11:45:32.980" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have aluminium 3&amp;nbsp;mm thick and 110x110 mm big, and it bends when heated. Inevitably the center becomes higher than the sides. It is not a problem with &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Polylactic_acid&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;PLA&lt;/a&gt; and nylon, but noticeable with &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Acrylonitrile_butadiene_styrene&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;ABS&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I use &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kapton#3D_printing&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Kapton&lt;/a&gt; on top of it, and the print sticks easily with PLA. ABS requires hairspray on top of it, and nylon requires glue stick (but it fails anyway if the piece is big).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you use glass with a top layer for proper adherence, you should be fine. Aluminium below could help spreading the heat, but... it will bend and push the glass, therefore you increase the risk of breaking: the glass does not bend much, but internally it is ALREADY withstanding a lot of stress when hot, and aluminium below could push it to the limit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: it appears however that aluminium beds are in general the best ones: &lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/2sW25xt5E6U?start=0&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2338" LastEditorUserId="2338" LastEditDate="2019-08-07T13:19:56.977" LastActivityDate="2019-08-07T13:19:56.977" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="1533" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1083" CreationDate="2016-07-21T11:50:38.620" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Delamination should not happen when the temperature is correct. As already pointed out, different temperatures between hot and cold layer cause warping, but warping is not delamination. If you print at the correct temperature (higher for bigger pieces, lower for thin columnar pieces), the layers will stick.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the procedure to optimise the printing temperature to avoid delamination:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:35088&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:35088&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Print the object at increasing temperatures (210-250C, 5C by step) and when cooled try to break it. Pick the temperature (for THAT SPECIFIC filament roll) that gives you the highest strength.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3VwaN.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3VwaN.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other test objects such as &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:915435&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:915435&lt;/a&gt; are meant to test print quality, not strength. For strength and delamination you need the procedure I described above.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2338" LastActivityDate="2016-07-21T11:50:38.620" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1534" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1503" CreationDate="2016-07-21T17:05:08.810" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use PLA and both my fans stopped working. I am not techy and couldn't figure out how to fix them so I set up a house fan that blew directly at the motor keeping it cool and it works as good if not better than the fans that came with the 3d printer. You cannot let your motors over heat because your filament will get curled up insize the nozzle.So try that before buying 3d printer fans.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2596" LastActivityDate="2016-07-21T17:05:08.810" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1535" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1543" CreationDate="2016-07-21T17:22:27.533" Score="8" ViewCount="968" Body="&lt;p&gt;The $200 Monoprice Select is inexpensive but also cheap, so experiences I've seen appear to involve lots of repairs.  In spite of that, I've bought one, as I'm able to fix things (sometimes) and the first few prints have been pretty good quality.  ( I hear this unit is also sold as a Wanhao I3 )&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First repair was that the control knob only worked in one direction (fix: bad encoder-PCB connector cable. Repaired)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Upon trying to change filament, the feeder fitting that enters the hot-end heatsink has come off. This fitting has a thread, but strangely the heatsink does not seem to.  As I tried to unscrew it, to check for a feed blockage, it just let go, and I see no part that could have held it in place.   (See pic)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm guessing that it was just epoxy-glued to the heatsink. Sounds kludgy but possible.  Does anyone know? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can any other owner verify how theirs is attached? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[ Also, posted as a caution for someone else who tries to do this. :(  ]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks in advance. &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vvUAQ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vvUAQ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;broken hotend filament feeder&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2595" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-12-10T06:30:39.520" LastActivityDate="2019-12-10T06:30:39.520" Title="Monoprice Select Mini - Detached Filament Feeder fitting" Tags="|monoprice-select-mini|repair|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1536" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-21T19:07:07.477" Score="5" ViewCount="1367" Body="&lt;p&gt;I keep thinking it means that I can plug it directly into &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B007KG0ZYI&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;my power supply&lt;/a&gt; instead of running it though my RAMPs 1.4; is that correct?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is the link to it, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.robotdigg.com/product/209&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;200*200mm Square Silicone Heater Pad&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2017-06-21T12:21:41.693" LastActivityDate="2017-06-21T12:21:41.693" Title="What does &quot;Uses Mains Voltage&quot; mean on this 200*200mm Square Silicone Heater Pad?" Tags="|heated-bed|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1537" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1536" CreationDate="2016-07-21T19:16:57.310" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&quot;Mains voltage&quot; is the alternating current provided by your wall outlets (eg 120v in USA). In order to use a mains voltage heatbed in a 3d printer, you will need to wire up your controller to switch an AC SSR. That way, your low-voltage-DC RAMPS board can control AC current. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you plug a heatbed directly into a power supply, it will never stop heating, and may burn itself up or even cause a fire. Don't do that. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because mains voltage has enough voltage to kill you, it should only be used for STATIONARY components, such as the PSU supply wiring and Delta heatbeds. With moving beds, particularly Mendel/i3 style Y-beds, wire fatigue and rubbing can expose the electrical conductors and create a serious safety hazard. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;200x200mm is a very reasonable size for a DC bed heater, so there's really no good reason to use an AC heater here. It's more complex and less safe. I recommend getting a different heater. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="298" LastActivityDate="2016-07-21T19:16:57.310" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1538" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1536" CreationDate="2016-07-21T19:20:56.920" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;[edit]&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;I just noticed you've mentioned &quot;mains voltage&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;DON'T DO THAT&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If there is 12V on your heatbed and your power supply gives 12&amp;nbsp;V then you can do it but there will be no control over your heating procedure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How does it work?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;RAMPS is connected to Arduino and then through Arduino to your computer. So applications can say to Arduino - hey, heat it up up to 70°C. So Arduino sends this command to RAMPS and RAMPS is switching on heating, meantime it measures temperature and sends this measurement to Arduino so it knows if your heatbed is already at 70°C or not. Having that knowledge Arduino can decide to still heat it up or rather switch the power of the heatbed off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you connect your heatbed directly to your power supply then all of the above controlling sequence will not take place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Imagine to connect your lightbulb directly to the wall plug. You can do it but then you will not have any chance to switch it on or off. Right? ;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;So in my opinion - don't do that - don't connect your heatbed directly to your power supply.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1211" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2017-06-21T12:18:44.450" LastActivityDate="2017-06-21T12:18:44.450" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1540" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1433" CreationDate="2016-07-21T19:41:10.237" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is my understanding that the metals are so fine and mixed in with other ingredients that you cannot tell that there is metal at all. But looks like its 100% metals.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2596" LastActivityDate="2016-07-21T19:41:10.237" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1541" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-21T19:50:00.947" Score="4" ViewCount="2492" Body="&lt;p&gt;My question is...&#xA;Is there a SIMPLE/easy way to load TPU without tearing my printer apart to insert a hose that probably wont work anyways. It keeps curling up by the cog. I have read a few topics in other places but I didn't like the answers. Hoping you all might have a simple fix. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2596" LastActivityDate="2018-08-28T12:11:11.023" Title="Needing a simple fix for loading TPU" Tags="|filament|desktop-printer|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1542" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1541" CreationDate="2016-07-21T20:05:31.083" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Loading TPU/TPE can be particularly challenging because many printer loading scripts run too fast for the soft flexible filament to effectively purge whatever normal filament you were using before. A couple tips:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Load with a slightly higher temp than either the TPU or previous filament require, so as to minimize the melt viscosity and reduce the force required.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Make a custom gcode file that contains a slower loading routine: wait for heat, then advance the extruder at a very slow rate for a long distance. Then you just &quot;print&quot; this gcode file whenever you need to load TPU.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, simply being able to load is not necessarily enough. &lt;strong&gt;Not all extruders can reliably print flexible filaments, period.&lt;/strong&gt; The larger the gap between the pinch wheel and inlet to the hot end, the more likely the filament is to buckle and come out the side. You need to make sure this gap is as short as possible. If there is more than a couple mm of gap, you'll need to make gap-filler or print yourself a new extruder designed for flexibles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Printing slow and without major velocity changes can help, too. Use relatively low layer heights and low, constant feedrates so the extruder doesn't have to run fast or change pressure often. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Harder flexible filaments will be easier to print if your setup is borderline. Ninjaflex is one of the hardest to print because it is relatively soft. Semi-flex type filaments are much easier to print if your hardware isn't set up optimally.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="298" LastActivityDate="2016-07-21T20:05:31.083" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1543" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1535" CreationDate="2016-07-21T20:15:11.407" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Solution - there is a set-screw and a square nut in that T-slot which holds the feeder fitting in place on the heat sink. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One may well think (as I did) that the fitting is threaded into the heatsink, since it does have a big hex-head for a wrench. A small turn an the set screw lets go, the nut sliding down the slot with it. Thus when you inspect it, you don't realize they are involved 'cuz they aren't around.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Simply slide back up and you're in business.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mystery solved - thx to Mark on Twitter. :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2595" LastActivityDate="2016-07-21T20:15:11.407" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1544" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-22T22:14:11.190" Score="4" ViewCount="1157" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am trying to 3D print an iPhone case, however, I want it to print standing up. Is this possible to do?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a picture of the case in the link below.&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dUYr0.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dUYr0.png&quot; alt=&quot;iphone case&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2611" LastActivityDate="2019-05-04T19:17:49.467" Title="Printing an iPhone Case" Tags="|3d-models|print-quality|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1545" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1544" CreationDate="2016-07-22T23:00:55.783" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes this is possible. For an FDM/FFF printer, you'll need to print with supports. I might also recommend printing in PLA to minimize the chance of warping during the print (from experience).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It might also help to slow down the feedrate to ensure smooth surface finish and avoiding delamination on such small layers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll probably see a decrease in the surface quality on the inside due to the printing of support scaffolding depending on the slicing engine you use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;However&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll want to pay attention to the strength of the case. If you print the case upright then it will be more susceptible to breaking without post-processing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Conclusion&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ultimately, if you can get away with it, it would be better to subtract the star instead of extruding it in the model. Then you can simply print the case back face down on the plate with much better results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="98" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:29:41.667" LastActivityDate="2019-04-26T17:41:01.390" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="1546" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1550" CreationDate="2016-07-23T02:32:45.660" Score="6" ViewCount="5641" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to use my old Xbox 360 Kinect as a scanner for 3D modeling and (hopefully) printing a few busts of friends/family members; however, my efforts have failed in each direction that I have taken. Has anyone had success with this,  and if so, how do I fix the issues that I am facing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I have done so far and the problems that I have had:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I have purchased a cable to supply 12V to the Kinect while also allowing USB to a PC.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I have installed the Kinect SDK as well as the Kinect Developers Toolkit on my Windows 10 Ultrabook.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I installed the Microsoft &quot;3D Scan&quot; app and the &quot;Kinect Readiness&quot; app (not the name, unsure of it at this point) provided by Microsoft.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;**Issue: ** Neither Microsoft app detects the  Kinect when cable is plugged in. The Kinect's light slowly flashes green. Also, my cursor freezes when the Kinect is plugged in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol start=&quot;4&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I checked the Hardware profiles and found a notification that I do  not have the drivers for the Kinect motor and that no suitable  drivers could be found. However, no other details about the Kinect showed up.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I uninstalled the SDK and developer toolkits and installed v1.7, ran them in compatibility mode (Windows 8) and same issues arose.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I then began looking into using a different program, found ReconstructMe. This too failed to detect the Kinect even when it was manually selected as the scanner.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas? I also have a Linux Mint laptop that I will happily use for these efforts if I knew what software to capture the 3D scan with. It seems that there are several driver options out there, just unsure of what to use besides that. It seems that Blender can be used for some motion capture with Kinect; however, I am unsure of how this relates to my goals. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2613" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2020-07-13T11:54:12.193" LastActivityDate="2020-07-13T11:54:12.193" Title="Using Kinect 360 as 3D Scanner" Tags="|3d-models|scanning|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1547" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-23T11:02:27.220" Score="10" ViewCount="6929" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to find a way of applying graphics to my ABS printed parts. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I need a robust method which can produce a decent amount of detail with true color and legible fine text .&#xA;I also was hoping to avoid the use of stickers and opt for something that's slightly more permanent. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was wondering if there are ways in which a vinyl decal or other types of decal material could be pressed into the face of a plastic part and then thermally fuse the two layers together using heat transfer method?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most of the surfaces I work with would be flat, but there are some parts that are slightly curved and it would be totally amazing if I could somehow apply graphics to those areas as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for any hints&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2617" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-07-06T13:43:46.943" LastActivityDate="2018-07-06T13:43:46.943" Title="Methods for applying full color graphic decals to the surface of a 3d printed part?" Tags="|color|surface|graphics|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1548" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1536" CreationDate="2016-07-23T12:12:30.383" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The heater pad described in your link is designed for 12 VDC or 24 VDC. Therefore, the term Mains Voltage in the description is misleading and probably wrong. Read the voltage and power requirements again and it appears that the heater pad can be connected directly to the RAMPS 1.4 without an external relay or SSR.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2565" LastActivityDate="2016-07-23T12:12:30.383" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1550" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1546" CreationDate="2016-07-23T18:28:01.267" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I tried the same setting old kinect (but for PC - actually with power supply and usb-cable) plug to my surface windows10.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After some troubles, it works now ;-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The mentioned MS 3D scan and kinect readiness wont work. It is supposed for the new kinect2 model, because of the new driver. Best you deinstall both. Even the drivers and SDKs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You need Kinect for Windows v1.8 for the old kinect. &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.microsoft.com/en-us/download/details.aspx?id=40278&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://www.microsoft.com/en-us/download/details.aspx?id=40278&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;RecFusion is a software for using a single or multiple depth cams for getting 3d models. It works quite good with my kinect. It costs 99euros.  &lt;a href=&quot;http://recfusion.net/index.php/en/download&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://recfusion.net/index.php/en/download&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1169" LastActivityDate="2016-07-23T18:28:01.267" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1551" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1515" CreationDate="2016-07-24T03:00:19.060" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If your stepper motors have shafts protruding from both ends then it may be possible to simply 3d print a fixture that allows a thumb screw to be tightened and clamp down on the unused part of the shaft.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This would however be a very manual approach and would require you to be mindful that the screw must always be disengaged just after motors are powered on..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2617" LastActivityDate="2016-07-24T03:00:19.060" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1552" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-24T03:49:04.923" Score="5" ViewCount="224" Body="&lt;p&gt;Looking for something that offers a lot of friction in contact with human skin or when sitting on the surface of a table. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was curious if any of the rubber/soft materials would be compatible with ABS so I could print them together using a dual-head setup?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2617" LastActivityDate="2016-07-25T16:46:34.843" Title="Looking for a material so I can make ABS parts with rubber grips and feet" Tags="|abs|dual-nozzle|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1553" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-24T14:14:27.093" Score="7" ViewCount="13990" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a RAMPS 1.4 and an Arduino Mega 2560. The problem is with 100k NTC thermistor. I've tested it with a multimeter, it results in ~122k&amp;Omega;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am using Marlin 1.0.2 (latest stable). I am using an MK8 extruder and do not receive temperature readings from the thermo-sensor - no matter how I connect it. However, on &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/ambrop72/aprinter&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;APrinter firmware&lt;/a&gt; it works flawlessly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In &lt;em&gt;configuration.h&lt;/em&gt;, I have tried most of the options, but found &quot;1&quot; is the best one for me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Executing &lt;code&gt;m105&lt;/code&gt; on Marlin, I get following result: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;ok T:0.0 /0.0 B:0.0 /0.0 T0:0.0 /0.0 @:0 B@:0&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On APrinter, the result is different:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;ok B:-inf /nan T:25.2076 /nan&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have not connected bed thermistor yet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;pins.h&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#define TEMP_0_PIN          1  // Extruder / Analog pin numbering&#xA;#define TEMP_BED_PIN        0  // Bed / Analog pin numbering&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;configuration.h&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#define TEMP_SENSOR_0 1&#xA;#define TEMP_SENSOR_BED 1&#xA;&#xA;...&#xA;&#xA;#define MOTHERBOARD BOARD_RAMPS_13_EFB&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After switching back and forth from Marlin to APrinter and back, Marlin stopped woking completely. I had configured the LCD (&lt;a href=&quot;http://reprap.org/wiki/RepRapDiscount_Smart_Controller&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;ReprapDiscount Smart Controller&lt;/a&gt;) and all the steppers were working. Right now, it does not even sends self test to Pronterface upon start/connection, or it hangs according to the log. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Pronterface output&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Connecting...&#xA;start&#xA;Printer is now online.&#xA;echo:Marlin1.0.2&#xA;echo: Last Updated: Jul 25 2016 17:12:39 | Author: (Rustam Rahimgulov, default config)&#xA;Compiled: Jul 25 2016&#xA;echo: Free Memory: 3971  PlannerBufferBytes: 1232&#xA;echo:Hardcoded Default Settings Loaded&#xA;echo:Steps per unit:&#xA;echo:  M92 X80.00 Y80.00 Z4000.00 E836.00&#xA;echo:Maximum feedrates (mm/s):&#xA;echo:  M203 X500.00 Y500.00 Z2.00 E25.00&#xA;echo:Maximum Acceleration (mm/s2):&#xA;echo:  M201 X9000 Y9000 Z100 E10000&#xA;echo:Acceleration: S=acceleration, T=retract acceleration&#xA;echo:  M204 S300.00 T3000.00&#xA;echo:Advanced variables: S=Min feedrate (mm/s), T=Min travel feedrate (mm/s), B=minimum segment time (ms), X=maximum XY jerk (mm/s),  Z=maximum Z jerk (mm/s),  E=maximum E jerk (mm/s)&#xA;echo:  M205 S0.00 T0.00 B20000 X20.00 Z0.40 E5.00&#xA;echo:Home offset (mm):&#xA;echo:  M206 X0.00 Y0.00 Z0.00&#xA;echo:PID settings:&#xA;echo:   M301 P22.20 I1.08 D114.00&#xA;start&#xA;echo:Marlin1.0.2&#xA;ec  (nothing more here, output just ends)&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2624" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2017-05-20T10:21:47.283" LastActivityDate="2017-12-28T23:55:36.500" Title="Marlin temperature sensor problem" Tags="|marlin|reprap|thermistor|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="13" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1554" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1544" CreationDate="2016-07-24T21:32:15.080" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not sure if this should be an answer or a comment, but not quite enough rep to comment, so...&#xA;Here's an off the wall suggestion: &#xA;As an alternate approach, assuming you're using FDM printing, could you print it with the star down on the bed in more than one step?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Print only the star.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Put suitable material around the star that is similar to the bed or usable as a bed material, possibly filling the voids as well. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Either print the rest of the case, hopefully with it adhering to the star, OR, print the rest of the case and use solvent or glue to adhere the star, (this latter step could be done with the star removed and printing directly onto the bed with the rest of the case only), OR, with the first star removed and the foreign support in place, reprint the entire case including the star - which would go into the empty space where the first star was printed and removed.  The first star print then just serves to allow accurate placement of the foreign support if you need that. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've never tried this, so I can't offer assurances.  The two step print, with the first star in place and the rest of the case printed after filling the empty space probably won't work if you need a heated bed, as for ABS.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2043" LastActivityDate="2016-07-24T21:32:15.080" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1555" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1556" CreationDate="2016-07-24T21:40:34.267" Score="6" ViewCount="1661" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to access the bed and nozzle temperature sensor data of a 3D printer via serial connection. Could someone please guide me in the right direction?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: Response from printer:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Connecting to printer...&#xA;Connection response from printer:&#xA;6R7�P)��h&amp;gt;L�JO� � ��V�\��`�r��T �� SK�&amp;lt;ʪ� �&amp;gt;�Vw^&lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$���|���R n�I, o�!����H&amp;gt;�&#xA;                                                                          mx�}M#&#xA;                                                                                 �LYԣPh���^@ ��rp � TP�j�~1�� V6     6 � f� 6�k#���&amp;amp;�H&quot;.��k K2���ek�(��&amp;amp;��^K�k2����Ul�(� ���~N�ʈ*.�&amp;gt;Z��k#d$&lt;/span&gt;�����(� ��&#xA;��(� ��� v��&#xA;���&#xA;Asking for temperatures (M105)...&#xA;Temperature response from printer:&#xA;^CTraceback (most recent call last):&#xA;  File &amp;quot;printer_files/serialaccess.py&amp;quot;, line 15, in &amp;lt;module&amp;gt;&#xA;    response = ser_printer.readline()&#xA;  File &amp;quot;/usr/lib/python2.7/dist-packages/serial/serialposix.py&amp;quot;, line 446, in read&#xA;    ready,_,_ = select.select([self.fd],[],[], self._timeout)&#xA;KeyboardInterrupt&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After the code asks the printer for temperature values, there is no output on the terminal anymore. I waited for a while and then killed it using control+c. It is clear that the printer is responding to the connection response but I am not sure why it is not returning the temperature values.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2626" LastEditorUserId="4625" LastEditDate="2022-09-29T18:38:51.853" LastActivityDate="2022-09-29T18:38:51.853" Title="Access Temperature sensor data of 3D printer via Serial connection" Tags="|extruder|heated-bed|nozzle|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="1556" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1555" CreationDate="2016-07-24T22:27:28.327" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Assuming your printer accepts conventional G-code flavor, extruder and bed temperature can be retrieved by sending &lt;code&gt;M105&lt;/code&gt; through the serial port. The printer will respond with &lt;code&gt;ok T:XXX.X B:XXX.X&lt;/code&gt; where &lt;code&gt;T&lt;/code&gt; is the nozzle temperature and &lt;code&gt;B&lt;/code&gt; is the bed temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can read more about the specific G-code in the &lt;a href=&quot;http://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#M105:_Get_Extruder_Temperature&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;RepRap wiki&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT:&#xA;I am editing the answer to include information for connecting to the printer using a simple python script.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The following script, first opens a serial connection to the printer. For Marlin firmware, when you first connect to the printer, it needs some time to initialize and respond back. That is why some delay is needed before reading the response. After printing the response, the script sends the &lt;code&gt;M105&lt;/code&gt; command, waits for 100ms, then reads the response of the serial buffer and prints it on the screen. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note &lt;code&gt;/dev/ttyUSB0&lt;/code&gt; is the serial port name and in your case it may be different. Also &lt;code&gt;250000&lt;/code&gt; is the baud rate of the connection; &lt;code&gt;250000&lt;/code&gt; is the default value of my printer so you need to replace this with the baud rate that your printer uses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;import serial&#xA;import time&#xA;&#xA;ser_printer = serial.Serial('/dev/ttyUSB0', 250000)&#xA;print &quot;Connecting to printer...&quot;&#xA;time.sleep(30)  # Allow time for response&#xA;buffer_bytes = ser_printer.inWaiting()&#xA;response = ser_printer.read(buffer_bytes)  # Read data in the buffer&#xA;print &quot;Connection response from printer:&quot;&#xA;print response&#xA;print &quot;Asking for temperatures (M105)...&quot;&#xA;ser_printer.write('M105\n')&#xA;time.sleep(0.1)  # Allow time for response&#xA;print &quot;Temperature response from printer:&quot;&#xA;response = ser_printer.readline()&#xA;print response&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2627" LastEditorUserId="2627" LastEditDate="2016-07-25T09:04:49.083" LastActivityDate="2016-07-25T09:04:49.083" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1557" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1552" CreationDate="2016-07-25T16:46:34.843" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ninjaflex dual-extrudes great with ABS. I've done a fair amount of NF/ABS dualstrusion. Frankly, any TPU will probably work, since molten polyurethane sticks to practically anything. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main challenge is ooze control since TPUs tend to ooze a lot. You're going to want to use a printing temp on the low end of the range for the flexible filament, and use some sort of wiper wall structure. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another issue you might run into is re-priming the flexible filament after an extended idle time. It helps to use a large purge structure to ensure the nozzle gets re-primed fully. Don't use an excessively large toolchange retraction distance -- this will make it more likely that the flexible filament jams during reprime. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The best way to accomplish the above will depend on your slicer. Simplify3D is a good choice since it has good dualstrusion wiper and purge functions. Other slicers can be made to work as well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="298" LastActivityDate="2016-07-25T16:46:34.843" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1558" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="107" CreationDate="2016-07-26T08:57:04.837" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use nail files. They're easy to get, cheap and have different grits on either side. You can lay them flat or hold them in your hand and they have some stability  making it fairly easy to sand something that is or should become flat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Plus, you can fix any nails you damage while removing support structures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2641" LastActivityDate="2016-07-26T08:57:04.837" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1559" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1566" CreationDate="2016-07-26T11:56:13.410" Score="5" ViewCount="143" Body="&lt;p&gt;A 3D printer can either print layer by layer or carve an object layer by layer to obtain an object. I heard somewhere that 3D printing technology isn't that accurate for printing minute details like fingerprints and iris patterns. Printing an iris pattern using a 3D printer would be a nice test to find this out. Can it print the iris pattern accurately? If not, then to what extent would be the accuracy of the 3D printed model of iris? Many commercial iris scanners can be easily fooled by high quality images of iris. Can a 3D printer print the these minute iris patterns with as much detail?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2646" LastEditorUserId="2646" LastEditDate="2016-07-26T12:21:29.617" LastActivityDate="2016-07-28T15:50:00.193" Title="Are 3D printers efficient for printing a detailed iris to bypass iris identification system?" Tags="|efficiency|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1560" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2636" CreationDate="2016-07-26T17:40:49.773" Score="2" ViewCount="790" Body="&lt;p&gt;There was a contest to develop 3D printable files for the International Space Station's 3D printer.  The winner got a 3D printer ... runners up got Fluke DVOM's and all entrants got a t-shirt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;ISS 3D Print Contest&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They offer 3 materials:  ABS, HDPE, and PEI+PC ... I'm not familiar with the last one. Anyone know?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If found this material on Matweb: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.matweb.com/search/DataSheet.aspx?MatGUID=949ca0fa6b1742bea8e8d26ea2fd3d48t&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;PEI+PC Alloy&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These links are thought to last a very long time.  I hope many of you decide to upload a project into contest site and compete for the grand prize ... A sweet John Fluke DVOM.  If nothing else a free awesome T-shirt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2497" LastEditorUserId="2497" LastEditDate="2016-11-22T21:01:35.467" LastActivityDate="2016-11-22T21:01:35.467" Title="What is PEI+PC 3D Print material? ISS 3D Print Contest" Tags="|abs|hdpe|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1561" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1560" CreationDate="2016-07-26T17:55:33.287" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;PEI - polyethermide is a &quot;common&quot; coating for heated print beds. PC is so many different things, but in this context, it's likely to mean polycarbonate plastic. From what I've read, it's challenging to print with and especially challenging to get a good bond on the build plate. One reference suggests to use a PEI coated bed with a slurry of ABS applied prior to printing. As with so many things 3d printer related, many people have many different methods. The above one appears to be well received as a successful method.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastActivityDate="2016-07-26T17:55:33.287" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1562" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1565" CreationDate="2016-07-26T20:08:08.337" Score="7" ViewCount="184" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/298/ryan-carlyle&quot;&gt;Ryan Carlyle&lt;/a&gt; seems to keep suggesting in my questions here, that using a 24&amp;nbsp;V power supply is safer than using a 12&amp;nbsp;V one.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Early on, I ordered the wrong power supply, obtaining a 24&amp;nbsp;V one instead of a 12&amp;nbsp;V; I found that it was incompatible with my RAMPs 1.4 board... unless of course you pull off all the components and replacement with 24&amp;nbsp;V compatible ones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now granted my board needs to be replaced if I am to use such a power supply, but are there any other components that need to be replaced if I'm going to use 24&amp;nbsp;V power, or am I safe with what I am using?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2019-07-12T09:51:30.183" LastActivityDate="2019-07-12T09:51:30.183" Title="Do I have to buy all new components if I were to get a RAMPS 1.4 that supports 24 V power?" Tags="|switching-power-supply|vitamins|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="1563" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-07-26T20:09:07.543" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2016-07-26T20:09:07.543" LastActivityDate="2016-07-26T20:09:07.543" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1564" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-07-26T20:09:07.543" Score="0" Body="Vitamins are simply put, components of your Rep Rap 3D Printer that cannot (yet) be replicated on your 3D Printer." OwnerUserId="37" LastEditorUserId="37" LastEditDate="2016-07-27T16:58:17.630" LastActivityDate="2016-07-27T16:58:17.630" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1565" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1562" CreationDate="2016-07-27T06:50:32.743" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You need all components that are supplied voltage by the RAMPS board to be able to deal with a 24V input. Some of your parts are most likely compatible, as the stepper drivers. Others get the 5V from the Arduino, as the endstops. Some will most likely need replacement, as&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the Hotend heater cartridge. It will need to be exchanged. You can easily buy those in 12V and 24V versions and a 12V version should not get 24V.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the fans. Chances here are about as close to 100% as it gets that they need to be replaced. They are directly connected to the 12V, some are PWM regulated but that doesn't change that they need to be replaced with proper 24V fans.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the heated bed. Since it gets direct power from the board you cannot use your old 12V bed. This is unless you had your old bed switched by a solid state relay (SSR) before. Then you'd have to check the SSR's switching signal tolerances.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;anything else you might have hooked up to your power supply directly (lights for example) should be checked for input tolerance.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="168" LastActivityDate="2016-07-27T06:50:32.743" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1566" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1559" CreationDate="2016-07-27T23:02:18.280" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I take lectures in university and was asked to read a review paper on 3D printed organs by &lt;em&gt;Anthony Atala&lt;/em&gt; (the most famous paper in printed organs research). The paper discussed about using several techniques to print the tissue we need at functional resolution. The review also cites detailed procedures to 3D print lung and skin tissues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Coming back to your question, we have reached a point in time where we can scan a real Iris and print them! Yes. And people use this technique called self assembly to achieve this (Other design approaches like Biomimicry and MiniTissue assembly is also being used right now). To do this we first extract cells from the donor. Or We do a functional high res scan of the extracted cell/part that we want to replicate. This is done via FMT-CT-Fluorescence Imaging, etc. And we cultivate the cells in bio incubators (we can also print cells btw - If the exact environment and operational conditions are maintained, we can print cell-replicas that will later self assemble to form the Iris with the same resolution and functional properties as that of the real one). The cultivated/printed cell is used as the tissue forming material. Forming is done by the cells themselves and is thus christened Self assembly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although this may sound futuristic, Autonomous Self Assembly is something that's already being done in Labs! The method works by studying embryonic organ development. For instance, Early stage cellular components of a developing tissue makes their own ECM. Like mentioned before, if we use proper signalling, and environmental manipulation,  we can create autonomous organization and patterning to make something we want. Advantage of this method is that we can work without scaffolds. This method relies on cell as primary driver of histogenesis. Knowledge of how an embryo grows into tissue (embroyo tissue genesis and organogenesis) is applied to achieve &quot;real&quot; cell dimensions/properties.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would recommend you to read the paper for detailed information. The method I mentioned in this post is only &lt;strong&gt;one&lt;/strong&gt; among three other methods that are being used currently in this domain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So yeah. My answer is yes. You can print an Iris and fool the system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;--&#xA;Updates&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;S. V. Murphy and A. Atala, “3D bioprinting of tissues and organs,” Nature Biotechnology, vol. 32, no. 8, pp. 773–785, Aug. 2014. DOI: 10.1038/nbt.2958 &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Withdrew my claim &quot;any given resolution&quot;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Details of the process&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2672" LastEditorUserId="2672" LastEditDate="2016-07-28T15:50:00.193" LastActivityDate="2016-07-28T15:50:00.193" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1567" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="107" CreationDate="2016-07-28T00:01:30.257" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Another method that you could try is an &lt;a href=&quot;http://hackaday.com/2013/02/26/giving-3d-printed-parts-a-shiny-smooth-finish/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;acetone vapor bath&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(All credit to them, by the way)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just so you know, this is a very &lt;strong&gt;risky&lt;/strong&gt; method, but the outcome is &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; nice. Remember that I warned you... And please, &lt;em&gt;please&lt;/em&gt; watch cautionary videos and practice &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;extreme&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; caution. I cannot stress that enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All you have to do is get a heating pad (or anything that can heat up to the necessary temperatures) out into a well-ventilated environment.&#xA;Then, get a large glass jar that you probably won't need in the future that can fit the 3D Model and pour some acetone inside. Afterward, you should place a small platform inside, just as in the video. Place the jar onto the heating pad. Now, place the 3D Model inside onto the platform. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, remember that acetone is a &lt;em&gt;solvent&lt;/em&gt;. That means that it basically melts off the details off of the 3D Model. So, if your model is moreover detailed, you should leave the 3D Model in the jar for a small amount of time (i.e. about 30 seconds &lt;em&gt;at most&lt;/em&gt;). If your model is not as detailed, you can put it in for a much longer amount of time, such as five minutes. Remember, the longer it is inside, the less the details!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, make sure to take the model out without using your hands, as it could possibly be harmful. You could use a wire hanger attached to a piece of tin foil to take it out, just as in the video.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope this helps; be safe!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Seriously, exercise EXTREME caution while handling the vapor, as it is incredibly flammable, and can build up in poorly ventilated areas!&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2673" LastActivityDate="2016-07-28T00:01:30.257" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1568" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1560" CreationDate="2016-07-28T01:54:26.537" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Apparently the Made In Space printer can print an exotic alloy of PEI (ultem) and PC (polycarbonate). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ultem is a super-premium material for industrial FDM printers, and requires a very high temp heated build chamber to print. Hobbyists use it as a build plate -- Stratasys uses it as filament in their most expensive FDM machines. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Polycarbonate is a specialty material that benefits from a heated chamber but is just barely printable on hobbyist level machines. (I print a fair amount of PC -- it makes ABS seem easy in comparison.) &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By alloying PC with PEI, they are presumably optimizing some kind of performance parameter compared to ultem alone or polycarbonate alone. Exactly what material properties they get will depend considerably on the ratio of the two polymers. Ultem is exceptionally heat-resistant, quite stiff, and extremely strong. PC is very heat resistant, and has exceptional impact toughness. Blends of the two can be somewhat stiffer than either, with most other properties resembling the weighted average of the two base materials. It really depends on the mix, which we don't know.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is analogous to the PC-ABS blend filaments we sometimes use. You get reasonably intermediate properties. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, it's basically super-filament that NASA might want to use to make &quot;production&quot; parts in space. I would expect a HUGE degree of warping if not printed in extremely well-controlled conditions. But the Made In Space printer was intensely engineered for this task, so I have to assume they have it all figured out. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="298" LastActivityDate="2016-07-28T01:54:26.537" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1569" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1547" CreationDate="2016-07-29T02:50:52.600" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Industry has for years used a 'pad printer' to put images on complex shapes, like plastic or ceramic travel mugs, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have observed these, but never used one.  I see no reason why there couldn't be a DIY version made.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Best of luck, and I look forward to seeing what you come up with!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2689" LastActivityDate="2016-07-29T02:50:52.600" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1571" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-29T12:31:02.570" Score="1" ViewCount="101" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am using Prusa HE3D Xi3. While printing after 5 or 6 layers it misses the step on x and y axis. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can anybody explain what is the reason?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2696" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2017-02-14T05:28:13.153" LastActivityDate="2017-02-14T05:28:13.153" Title="Prusa HE3D Xi3 missing step on x and y axis" Tags="|prusa-i3|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2016-08-01T21:52:55.570" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1572" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1571" CreationDate="2016-07-29T13:31:36.180" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's a possibility that your power supply lags after a while, the quality of power supplies on cheaper 3D printers are sometimes an issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's also a possible that the stepper motor drivers aren't putting out enough power. This can be adjusted by turning the trimmer on the driver, check the printer documentation for instructions on how to do that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2641" LastActivityDate="2016-07-29T13:31:36.180" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1574" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="369" CreationDate="2016-07-29T23:47:43.090" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can manually edit the .profile by using an SSH terminal program (e.g putty) to log into your Pi&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then cd ./octoprint/slicingProfiles&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;ls to see folders (on mine I see cura)&#xA;cd cura &#xA;ls to see profile files e.g fred.profile&#xA;sudo nano fred.profile&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;move down to where you can see the slicing parameters and edit away&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2704" LastActivityDate="2016-07-29T23:47:43.090" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1577" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1578" CreationDate="2016-07-31T16:15:33.237" Score="5" ViewCount="872" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a prusa i3 and have been trying to calibrate it. I have been trying to upload the new steps per mm and I get to done uploading. However when I go into Repetier host and type M503 to get the printers settings it still shows the steps as 100 for the y axis, it needs to be 96.1810. I am using ramps 1.4 I think, with Adrunio mega 2560. If I am remembering this correctly isn't there something you have to do when uploading a new sketch like hold the rest button or something?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1075" LastActivityDate="2016-08-06T09:19:59.483" Title="Uploading Repetier firmware to Arduino?" Tags="|prusa-i3|firmware|arduino-mega-2650|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1578" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1577" CreationDate="2016-07-31T16:43:36.023" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Mbn1ckR86Z8&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;See here&lt;/a&gt; for why you &lt;em&gt;shouldn't&lt;/em&gt; calibrate your X/Y-steps. The value of 100 is probably better and will give more accurate prints overall than the value you came up with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When uploading new firmware you generally do not have to press any button. Pressing reset manually is only necessary when your upload method does not provide a reset pulse, but if you upload with USB this is not necessary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is probably causing your problem is that the E-steps are stored in EEPROM, and uploading new firmware does not override the EEPROM settings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should run a &lt;code&gt;M502&lt;/code&gt; to restore the default settings from the firmware you uploaded, then &lt;code&gt;M500&lt;/code&gt; to save them to the EEPROM.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastActivityDate="2016-07-31T16:43:36.023" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1579" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1580" CreationDate="2016-07-31T19:53:18.623" Score="7" ViewCount="898" Body="&lt;p&gt;I cloned the Marlin repository and changed all my settings in &lt;code&gt;configuration.h&lt;/code&gt; to match my old settings. Now when the RC branch gets updated, is there a way to upstream pull the changes without losing my settings?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2598" LastEditorUserId="2627" LastEditDate="2016-08-01T21:55:18.493" LastActivityDate="2016-08-01T21:55:18.493" Title="Cloning the Marlin git repo while keeping my configuration.h settings?" Tags="|marlin|reprap|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1580" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1579" CreationDate="2016-08-01T13:28:54.590" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Based on &lt;a href=&quot;https://stackoverflow.com/a/19216491/1417624&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; answer, you need the following procedure:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Stash your local changes using &lt;code&gt;git stash&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pull from remote repository using &lt;code&gt;git pull&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Merge your stashed configuration file using &lt;code&gt;git stash pop&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, if there are changes in the &lt;code&gt;configuration.h&lt;/code&gt; file on the remote repository and cause conflicts, you will need to resolve them, but it should be straight forward.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2627" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-05-23T12:41:54.910" LastActivityDate="2016-08-01T13:28:54.590" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1581" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1586" CreationDate="2016-08-02T17:30:44.143" Score="4" ViewCount="5130" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use a Micro3D printer, running on OctoPi (yay!) (although this question should be relevant to any 3D printer that offers these features) and have options for raft and wave bonding. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there best case scenarios for when it is appropriate to use (or &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; use) either?  Can/should they ever both be used at the same time?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2743" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2019-06-13T16:11:22.663" LastActivityDate="2019-06-13T16:11:22.663" Title="When to use Wave Bonding vs Raft on a 3D print?" Tags="|rafts|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="1582" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1584" CreationDate="2016-08-02T18:15:54.343" Score="6" ViewCount="1093" Body="&lt;p&gt;I often have trouble with prints being especially difficult to remove from the build plate on my Micro3D printer.  My wife suggested using a hair dryer on the underside of the plate.  I was initially appalled at the idea, but now I think she may be on to something.  Is this safe?  Good idea? Bad idea?  Heresay?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2743" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-08-23T21:53:01.027" LastActivityDate="2019-01-05T14:59:03.630" Title="Is using a hair dryer on my M3D build plate safe?" Tags="|build-plate|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="1583" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1582" CreationDate="2016-08-02T18:30:26.973" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;That was a problem for me too. My M3d printer was getting stuck to the plate. However, I now print on painters tape, and I put down painters take on the bed. Then I glue stick the tape, and when I am done, I just pull it up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should try it, because it will allow you to print with other then the m3d plastic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2746" LastEditorUserId="132" LastEditDate="2017-05-15T11:46:01.337" LastActivityDate="2017-05-15T11:46:01.337" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1584" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1582" CreationDate="2016-08-02T18:30:59.983" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Typically, people &lt;em&gt;cool down&lt;/em&gt; their build plates to get parts to release, rather than heat them up. That said, I doubt a hair drier will get hot enough to do any damage to the build plate. You could try it with no harm done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastActivityDate="2016-08-02T18:30:59.983" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1585" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1582" CreationDate="2016-08-02T18:38:15.183" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's what i do. Painters tape. are you using the m3d plastic? that's why. the coating is to make sure it sticks their only plan to get it off is to bend the plate a little bit. Hair drier won't end the world. don't hold the plate and hair dry it, that might hurt. But M3D sells spare plates it you destroy it. Try it out, tell us what happens.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2747" LastActivityDate="2016-08-02T18:38:15.183" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1586" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1581" CreationDate="2016-08-02T18:48:10.323" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;After additional research, it seems that using both at the same time is ill-advised (more like pointless).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wave bonding is best suited for larger prints, primarily to prevent warping of the initial layer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rafts appear to be recommended regardless, other than for advanced users.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2743" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2019-06-13T16:09:24.793" LastActivityDate="2019-06-13T16:09:24.793" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="1587" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1582" CreationDate="2016-08-03T07:52:13.360" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I agree to Tom's first part of the answer, usually you'd cool down the plate to loosen the print. This is reasoned by the shrinkage of the builplate while the print stays extended. The strain put into the interface helps to get the print of. Warming the plate could essentially do the same, but since you deposit a warm filament, one would assume that by warming up you will reduce the strain that has been built up by the regular cooling of the filament already.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I guess an uneven heating with a hairdryer will probably introduce uneven strain or evan some kind of warping of the buildplate that puts more strain to the interface which makes your approach work. If you want to test whether you have some local deformation you could characterize this by reflecting a laserpointer from the heatbed and marking the reflection on a rather far away wall for some controlled positions you can get the laser in (by say putting it on a photography tripod). The change of this reflections towards each other could tell you about the deformation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also agree that most of the hairdryers around would not be hot enough to be a worry, but since most of the Micro3D is made from plastic I would put twice the time into figuring out if that is really true.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just for the fun of it, you could put an ice cube next to your finished print if you make sure that molten water will not go anywhere it is not supposed to be. Maybe this lifts off the print as well. However, I do not recommend doing this, of course.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="168" LastActivityDate="2016-08-03T07:52:13.360" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1588" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1589" CreationDate="2016-08-03T21:47:25.763" Score="5" ViewCount="1089" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just received my Wanhao Duplicator i3 PLUS. Everything prints and functions fine via SD card and the display but when connecting to my Mac computer the printer seems to restart.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Baud Rate: 115200&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Serial Port: &lt;code&gt;/dev/tty.wchusbserial1420&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas what it could be?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2755" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2017-02-14T05:28:34.987" LastActivityDate="2017-02-14T05:28:34.987" Title="Wanhao i3 PLUS restarts when connecting USB" Tags="|arduino-mega-2650|wanhao|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1589" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1588" CreationDate="2016-08-04T00:21:09.980" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't know that printer. But Arduino has a feature that a USB connection causes a reset. The Idea is that this helps when doing software update as the Arduino Boot loader will be active for one second after that reset.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This can be disabled, but needs hardware modification.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="204" LastActivityDate="2016-08-04T00:21:09.980" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1590" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-04T00:25:13.253" Score="4" ViewCount="1593" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm having some issues when connecting to the printer via USB, see &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/1588/wanhao-i3-plus-restarts-when-connecting-usb&quot;&gt;Wanhao i3 PLUS restarts when connecting USB&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After some research I thought I would try to remove the &lt;code&gt;auto-reboot&lt;/code&gt; jumper. Now that the i3 Plus uses a custom board instead of the standard Melzi, I'm not sure where to find it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See pictures attached:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4C5tg.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4C5tg.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Closeup of Prusa i3 Plus custom board #1&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7K7aM.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7K7aM.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Closeup of Prusa i3 Plus custom board #2&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PL2gW.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PL2gW.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Closeup of Prusa i3 Plus custom board #3&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2755" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T13:00:58.447" LastActivityDate="2017-02-14T05:30:49.130" Title="Where is the auto-reset jumper on the Wanhao i3 PLUS?" Tags="|electronics|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1591" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1588" CreationDate="2016-08-04T00:48:30.357" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;That is normal on most printers. They restart if you connect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you have an SD card slot I would recommend using it rather than your computer. If your connected computer goes to sleep it would also reset the connection after wakeup.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2756" LastActivityDate="2016-08-04T00:48:30.357" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2590" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1434" CreationDate="2016-08-04T08:09:32.433" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes. &#xA;Look up Arduino Ramps 1.4&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://reprap.org/wiki/RAMPS_1.4&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://reprap.org/wiki/RAMPS_1.4&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Following the programing is all done for you in the firmware. That said you can edit it. Just open the firmware files -- it is compiled when you upload them. Generally however one usually sticks to the preferences header alone..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://reprap.org/wiki/List_of_Firmware&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://reprap.org/wiki/List_of_Firmware&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Over all you are trying to reinvent the wheel. When I started 5-6 years ago it was barely a thing. Now you buy a proven kit and get to the printing. That said if you are truly interested in designing check out. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.facebook.com/groups/cncbuilddesign/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.facebook.com/groups/cncbuilddesign/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want help on picking a kit. Or what I really think you are looking for. A good place to start. This is one of the larger 3d printing groups. Full disclosure I run this one, but at 6k members I don't recruit. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.facebook.com/groups/3DPrinterHobbyists/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.facebook.com/groups/3DPrinterHobbyists/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I got my start in reprap IRC&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://reprap.org/wiki/IRC&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://reprap.org/wiki/IRC&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Be aware there are trolls that now camp the IRC looking to sell you a printer. I would not engage with them, their printers are usually overpriced and sub par. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Best of luck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most of all I think you need to know it's Reprap all the way. Reprap forums, Reprap printers, Reprap kits, Reprap community. All the commercial printers started off the reprap project. Even if you buy a makerbot (don't) it's Reprap in it's roots.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://vimeo.com/5202148&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://vimeo.com/5202148&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2146" LastEditorUserId="26" LastEditDate="2016-10-23T07:13:21.577" LastActivityDate="2016-10-23T07:13:21.577" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2591" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1043" CreationDate="2016-08-04T08:42:52.250" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You have to do it by eye. However you need to think about what infill you use. a triangle pattern will be very strong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Following I never use high infill. Most of my items have a strong outer shell, IE 3 layers. Inside I will do between 7 and 14 %. If I printed a square 200mm^3 I would have no concerns standing on it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All depends. Really though for your settings I would not thing you would really ever need more than 14%.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At a company I worked at that was testing 3d printed parts. They evaluated material by printing the same test shapes and seeing what their tolerances were. You will need to develop your own method as such.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2146" LastActivityDate="2016-08-04T08:42:52.250" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2592" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-04T15:08:46.800" Score="2" ViewCount="2869" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/1536/what-does-uses-mains-voltage-mean-on-this-200200mm-square-silicone-heater-pad&quot;&gt;advised&lt;/a&gt; that it would be possible to use an AC SSR to wire up a Mains Based heat bed.  Any idea how one would do this with a RAMPs 1.4 board; Also, what do I hook a heated bed of this sort into?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T13:00:58.447" LastActivityDate="2016-08-20T20:09:06.030" Title="How do I wire an AC SSR with RAMPs 1.4?" Tags="|heated-bed|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2593" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2594" CreationDate="2016-08-04T15:17:32.630" Score="11" ViewCount="9194" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Fpc5P.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Fpc5P.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By what process does the Prusa i3 determine it's home position?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a feeling that it works like this, but I'm not entirely sure about it:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If none of the end stops are activated; assume you are somewhere between Max-X, Max-Y, Max-Z and the point 0,0,0.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;do&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;For axis in Axies&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If axis endstop not signaling&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;subtract 100 steps from axis.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;while endstops are not signaling, or if point 0,0,0 not reached; &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastActivityDate="2016-08-07T12:31:47.357" Title="How does the home position work on a Prusa i3 RepRap Printer?" Tags="|prusa-i3|reprap|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2594" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2593" CreationDate="2016-08-04T15:46:04.377" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;It works like you describe, but it does not move all axes at the same time. It first moves the X-axis, subtracting steps while the X endstop is not pressed. When the X-axis is is homed (the X-endstop is gets pressed) it repeats the procedure for the Y-axis and finally the Z-axis.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3764" LastEditorUserId="115" LastEditDate="2016-08-04T16:07:28.650" LastActivityDate="2016-08-04T16:07:28.650" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2595" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1471" CreationDate="2016-08-04T15:48:05.760" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;What I tried and worked is to apply water based normal Glue-stick on the tray and with few drops of water distribute it evenly across the tray surface, let it dry and then you are good to go!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3763" LastActivityDate="2016-08-04T15:48:05.760" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2596" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2592" CreationDate="2016-08-05T00:30:45.127" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A link to the bed you have/are buying would be very helpful. AC heated beds exist but are fairly uncommon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/1548/1404&quot;&gt;one of the answers&lt;/a&gt; in the question you linked notes, the heat bed is probably not actually intended to use the 110 VAC/220 VAC directly from the wall and instead needs either 12 VDC or 24 VDC.&#xA;If the current it needs is less than 11 A, then it can be connected directly to port D8 on the RAMPS 1.4, where it will take power from a suitably powerful 12/24 VDC supply connected to the 11 A input on the board.&#xA;A more powerful heater will need an external relay/MOSFET/etc. to control.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do, in fact, have an AC bed, you can connect a SSR like &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B0087ZTN08&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; to either D8 or D9 on the RAMPS (D10 could be used, but it would need a supply connected to the 11 A input) making sure the polarity is correct, as long as your RAMPS DC supply voltage is within the input range of the SSR.&#xA;The linked one is 3–32 VDC, so almost any supply voltage compatible with the RAMPS will work.&#xA;The AC outputs of the SSR should be connected in series between one side of the bed and the AC hot wire, with the AC neutral wire connected to the other side of the bed so most of the circuit isn't carrying high voltage when off.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TiEwNf1H_Tc&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;This&lt;/a&gt; video has some useful hints.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, while an AC bed can get you faster heating, will let you use thinner wires, and avoids the need for having a big DC power supply, I would recommend against using a mains voltage bed if you don't know what you're doing—a great deal more care must be taken and there is a serious possibility of injury.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1404" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T13:00:58.447" LastActivityDate="2016-08-05T00:30:45.127" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2597" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1590" CreationDate="2016-08-05T00:34:49.273" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The pictures don't help much, and I don't know the board. But if it is as described here, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.elecfreaks.com/wiki/index.php?title=RAMPS_Melzi&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Elec Freaks Wiki - RAMPS Melzi&lt;/a&gt;, then you need to look for the FTDI Chip FT232. The reset is caused by the DTR Signal. There needs to be a copper trace from pin 2 to the capacitor and then to the jumper. From the jumper a trace leads to pin 4 of the Atmel ATmega.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it is a clone, the jumper might have been &quot;optimized away&quot;. If so, desoldering the capacitor gives the same result.  Be certain to desolder the right one. If unsure keep the capacitor and solder it back in if it was the wrong one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="204" LastEditorUserId="854" LastEditDate="2017-02-13T01:03:21.910" LastActivityDate="2017-02-13T01:03:21.910" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2598" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="92" CreationDate="2016-08-05T01:47:38.747" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Filament manufacturers (for example, Colorfabb) also sell pellets, price per kilo would be about 10 times less than the same plastic in filament form.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Out of household garbage only ABS can be easily extruded into filament with Filabot-grade machine. PET AKA plastic bottles looks promising as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also use certain products &quot;off-label&quot;. For example, string trimmer string (line) is simply a nylon filament and can be used as-is in modern diameter-agnostic hot end.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3770" LastActivityDate="2016-08-05T01:47:38.747" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2599" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-05T04:34:29.177" Score="4" ViewCount="3672" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hello I have a Prusa I3 I am currently able to get press fit parts with my current settings. I am using Ramps 1.4 hardware and repetier software and cura as my slicer. I am printing with a .2 mm layer height right now but would like to get a better number such as .1 or .09. When I try to print with say .1mm layer height in the middle of the print the filament stops coming out of the nozzle. However I can still see the gear moving. I have check some sites that I have been using for troubleshooting but I haven't found anything that fixed the problem yet. How or what setting need to be changed in order to print with better resolution?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1075" LastActivityDate="2016-08-06T08:15:41.637" Title="Setting Resolution?" Tags="|print-quality|prusa-i3|ultimaker-cura|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2600" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2592" CreationDate="2016-08-05T06:05:27.560" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you take a kettle lead with a wall plug and cut off the other end, it will expose 3 wires: earth, live and neutral. These are &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Electrical_wiring&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;color coded&lt;/a&gt; depending on your country, usually earth is green (possibly with yellow stripes), neutral is blue, black, grey or white and live is brown, red or black.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The SSR should have 4 terminals: 2 terminals for the switched load (which are interchangeable) and 2 terminals that connect to your electronics, which should be marked negative and positive. These terminals should connect to the negative/positive heated bed output of your electronics. The terminals of the SSR should be clearly marked, and you can verify which terminal is what from the SSR's datasheet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Typically, your heated bed will have two wires for power (which are interchangeable). One of the wires should be connected to neutral. The other wire should go to one of the load terminals of the SSR, while the other load terminal of the SSR should connect to the live wire. It is also acceptable to do it the other way around (neutral to the SSR and live directly to the bed) but this is slightly less neat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, and this step is &lt;em&gt;extremely important&lt;/em&gt;, the earth wire of the plug has a protective function: should something fail, metal parts of your printer may become electrified, and shock you when you touch them. To prevent it, you should electrically connect exposed metal parts of your printer (such as the frame, heated bed plate, power supply case, etc...) to earth. This provides a path for the current to flow (and trip the protective RCD breaker) should something go wrong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would further recommend that you protect your heated bed (particularly if it is a high power model) with a bimetallic thermal switch. These are available in a variety of ratings, and will switch the power to your heated bed off when it goes over a certain temperature. This switch should be wired between the relay and the heated bed, and be mounted on the heated bed so it makes good thermal contact. If you plan to print with the heated bed at 110C, you might get a 120C or 130C thermal switch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As mains voltage can be deadly, you should take appropriate precautions: &lt;em&gt;never&lt;/em&gt; work on the printer while it is plugged in, cover any connections (in particular, make sure you buy or print a cover for the SSR's terminals and wrap solder joints in heat shrink or electrical tape) and always treat wires coming out of the SSR as live (even if it is switched off, some current can still flow).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastActivityDate="2016-08-05T06:05:27.560" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2601" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2599" CreationDate="2016-08-05T06:16:11.023" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are no settings that you should need to change. Rather, it seems like you are suffering from another issue that is not directly related to layer height.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is possible that your hotend's heat sink is not being cooled enough, causing heat to migrate up and soften plastic in the heat sink, ultimately jamming it. Depending on your hotend's make, the heat sink should be cooled by a fan that is always on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Normally, the plastic being fed into the hotend provides some cooling, but printing at a thinner layer height decreases this effect because less plastic is fed into the hotend per time unit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastActivityDate="2016-08-05T06:16:11.023" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2602" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2599" CreationDate="2016-08-05T17:27:42.070" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I agree with Tom's answer, it seems that temperature slowly makes it's way up your heat sink and softens the plastic which causes the jam. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even though you should first check your hardware to make sure that hotend cooling is installed correctly, &lt;strong&gt;to directly address your original question&lt;/strong&gt; as to what setting needs to be changed, I would suggest lowering your printing temperature. When printing finer layers, the plastic moves slower in the hotend, spending more time in the heater block, possibly making your current temperature setting too high for this resolution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2627" LastActivityDate="2016-08-05T17:27:42.070" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2603" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2599" CreationDate="2016-08-06T08:15:41.637" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, That is what happens. There is a reason that most people cannot break the .1mm barrier. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You have several things happening. First if you are using a bowden. Good luck. The bowden treats plastic a lot like a spring. Just wont be able to generate a consistent pressure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The direct gear will have the same issue. You are trying to spit out 0.1mm on a 0.5mm nozzle. Factor in some simple drooling and your dot of plastic is missing. You wouldn't think it matters, but when we are using such tiny amounts of plastic, and consistently throughout the print, it makes for a really bad result!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then you have more issues. This is why you jam. You now have a lot of plastic sitting, not being expelled. When you go from 0.2mm to 0.1mm you now take twice the time. Considering the printer was made to print at a 0.7 to 0.2 range (more or less). We are talking about a fair time for this plastic to sit molten, waiting to come out. Some have mentioned the heat crawl, but not exactly what happens or a solution. Now you do a retraction, and you just retracted molten plastic. Which gets jammed. Or your plastic cooks, carbonizes faster and clogs your hotend. Sad times! What you can do is ... turn off retraction, and then increase your flow / extrusion multiplier to account for the extra drooling. Part will have a lot of stringing, but a quick burst from a lighter fixes most of that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can get better results with a hotend that has a fan and heat sink / break. I like the e3d hot ends. That will stop the heat crawl. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I will note that Makergear once sent me an experimental 0.1mm nozzle. It could not build enough pressure to expel the plastic. I got one tiny bunny, half melted before it clogged from aforementioned carbonization. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sounds like to me you really just need a form 1, or you are a tinkerer like me. Making the printer go twice the speed is much more fun than high quality. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2146" LastActivityDate="2016-08-06T08:15:41.637" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2604" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1544" CreationDate="2016-08-06T08:38:16.640" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You have a few options. First. I would change the design. Why not make it negative space instead? Else as the other user mentioned, glue the star on later.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other options are, come up with a modular design so you do not print it as one piece. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From there you can do some more advanced things such as print it with the star up and use HIPS as a support material -- assuming you have a duel extruder&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://reprap.org/wiki/HIPS&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://reprap.org/wiki/HIPS&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could print it with normal support material, with the star up, and just accept that the left overs will scratch the phone, or spend a lot of time with some hand tools and sand paper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2146" LastActivityDate="2016-08-06T08:38:16.640" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2605" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2593" CreationDate="2016-08-06T08:44:17.657" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You have the endstop which sends a on or off to the controller board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The boards firmware knows if it is a close or open switch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lets assume pressed is on and unpressed is off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the axis is at home it will read as ON. The firmware then will not allow the axis to move in the direction you have designated is the Home direction. Now this is probably where you got confused. You in fact are the one to open a code file, and say what direction is home. When your turn it on the first time, chances are you have done it wrong on at least one. Then you will frantically go and manually press it yourself as your printers hotend crashes HARD into the bed.. All of us have been there !&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Generally Prusas use ramps 1.4&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://reprap.org/wiki/RAMPS_1.4&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://reprap.org/wiki/RAMPS_1.4&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your code is your firmware. Usually you just edit a header file (single file). These files are heavily documented, depending which you use. Your seller might provider you with a preconfigured header file.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will note that yes, if the endstop slips or is not position right, the printer will crash into it self. Usually no damage, but it is a very unpleasant thing to happen. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also worth noting that some firmware will force you to home before you move. Others will let you crash the printer on the opposite side. Just a motor, will do whatever you tell it to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In short. You tell it how the endstops work and what direction is home on a printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2146" LastEditorUserId="168" LastEditDate="2016-08-07T12:31:47.357" LastActivityDate="2016-08-07T12:31:47.357" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2606" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1577" CreationDate="2016-08-06T09:19:59.483" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If your firmware doesn't store values you modified after flashing, for example using Repetier's option &quot;Firmware EEPROM configuration&quot;, you probably didn't define EEPROM setting in Marlin. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To do this you have to uncomment the option in Marlin's Configuration.h:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;// EEPROM&#xA;// The microcontroller can store settings in the EEPROM, e.g. max velocity...&#xA;// M500 - stores parameters in EEPROM&#xA;// M501 - reads parameters from EEPROM (if you need reset them after you changed them temporarily).&#xA;// M502 - reverts to the default &quot;factory settings&quot;.  You still need to store them in EEPROM afterwards if you want to.&#xA;//define this to enable EEPROM support&#xA;  #define EEPROM_SETTINGS&#xA;&#xA;#if ENABLED(EEPROM_SETTINGS)&#xA;// To disable EEPROM Serial responses and decrease program space by ~1700 byte: comment this out:&#xA;#define EEPROM_CHITCHAT // Please keep turned on if you can.&#xA;#endif&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check that the lines #define EEPROM_SETTINGS and #define EEPROM_CHITCHAT are both uncommented (i.e. defined)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3783" LastActivityDate="2016-08-06T09:19:59.483" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2607" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2611" CreationDate="2016-08-06T23:15:36.037" Score="6" ViewCount="5203" Body="&lt;p&gt;I own a delta 3D printer. The problem is that, at the beginning of a print the extruder outputs dirty filament. I want a clean filament flow at the start of my prints!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I make the hotend exit the print surface (glass plate) by 10mm, extrude the bad filament and go back to printing again? Can this be done with G-code?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My Z high is 190&amp;nbsp;mm and the glass plate diameter is 120&amp;nbsp;mm. I'm using Marlin + Ramps 1.4. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm using Repetier-Host and CuraEngine as Slicer, but I really would like a G-code that can work on multiple environments like Cura and Repetier. I just want to add it to the start G-code and print!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3791" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-07-31T00:02:57.940" LastActivityDate="2018-07-31T00:02:57.940" Title="Clean or wipe move for delta 3D printers" Tags="|print-quality|marlin|delta|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="2608" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2609" CreationDate="2016-08-07T02:49:14.600" Score="3" ViewCount="1428" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are there any 3D printing filaments or specially designed desktop systems which can print soft &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Artificial_skin&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;artificial skin&lt;/a&gt; for human-robot? For example made of soft silicone or something similar?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20" LastActivityDate="2016-08-10T22:21:26.140" Title="Possible ways to print soft skin for human robot?" Tags="|filament|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2609" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2608" CreationDate="2016-08-07T07:06:39.977" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Oh that is a tricky tricky question!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First you will probably need a good scan of the robot. You will have the cad of the robot but chances are scanning will make life easier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.3ders.org/articles/20151201-kinect-easy-3d-printing-tool-with-release-of-3d-scan-app-for-windows.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.3ders.org/articles/20151201-kinect-easy-3d-printing-tool-with-release-of-3d-scan-app-for-windows.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also see Reprap for other options&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://reprap.org/wiki/3D_scanning&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://reprap.org/wiki/3D_scanning&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Following... it is not going to be that simple. If it was my project I would&#xA;Print a mold out of ABS. ABS reacts to acetone and you can vapor treat it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.logarithmic.net/pfh/blog/01366106156&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.logarithmic.net/pfh/blog/01366106156&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/erykC.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/erykC.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Example of acetone smooth print&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said you might burn your house down. Also it is inconsistent. But would give you a smooth finish. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next you can do just normal mold printing and be okay with the ribbing. Then you pour your silicon material&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ppTCY.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ppTCY.png&quot; alt=&quot;Example of a silicon mold made hand&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next you can well just print with silicon. The ninjaflex guys have a ton of different types of flexible materials and new ones coming out. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://ninjatek.com/products/filaments/ninjaflex/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://ninjatek.com/products/filaments/ninjaflex/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/X4Btl.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/X4Btl.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Filaflex hand printed in a Caucasian skin tone&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On that topic I will mention a local company that I have no direct affiliation with. I just see them at the hacker space. They make a extruder just for flexibles. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://flexionextruder.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://flexionextruder.com/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other areas to look at. More for making metal but it may be of use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.instructables.com/id/From-3d-printed-part-to-metal-the-lost-plaabs-me/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.instructables.com/id/From-3d-printed-part-to-metal-the-lost-plaabs-me/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Last is again the mold but you make the molds on a expensive form 1. Or you make the skin on the form1 as they can do flexibles. Small build area. Material is around 100 a ltr or more&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://formlabs.com/products/3d-printers/form-1-plus/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://formlabs.com/products/3d-printers/form-1-plus/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also check out this facebook group (no affiliation) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.facebook.com/groups/3DPrintProps/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.facebook.com/groups/3DPrintProps/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If anyone has done this it is those guys. Oh Wait No I take that back Look into these fellows. They have a very active group. (google group) not to mention that they are also directly doing what you are.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://inmoov.fr/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://inmoov.fr/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MzPsN.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MzPsN.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;InMoov Android&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8pqOQ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8pqOQ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;InMoov with skin&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just don't be like this guy and make it look like a movie star... &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mirror.co.uk/news/weird-news/man-builds-scarlet-johansson-robot-7667715&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.mirror.co.uk/news/weird-news/man-builds-scarlet-johansson-robot-7667715&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2146" LastEditorUserId="2146" LastEditDate="2016-08-08T00:21:51.720" LastActivityDate="2016-08-08T00:21:51.720" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2610" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2607" CreationDate="2016-08-07T07:16:20.237" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;A lot of slicers will have a Wipe option. Here are some examples:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;See &lt;a href=&quot;https://jinschoi.github.io/simplify3d-docs/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Unofficial Simplify3D Documentation&lt;/a&gt;. Go to the section talking about &lt;em&gt;Wipe Nozzle&lt;/em&gt;, under the heading &lt;strong&gt;Extruder Tab&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Two more ooze-fighting options are Coast at end and Wipe nozzle. Coast turns off the extruder the specified distance before it normally would, to drain what would have oozed as the end of a line. This can help with ooze-induced blobs at the end of lines, but if turned up too high will lead to gaps in your print walls. Changes to this setting will be visible as gaps in the g-code preview.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Wipe has the nozzle retrace over the start of a perimeter line at the&#xA;  end of a perimeter for the specified distance with the extruder off,&#xA;  to leave any ooze behind before proceeding. It is similar to Coast in&#xA;  that it moves the extruder without extruding, but wipe occurs after&#xA;  the end of the line while coast occurs before.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Slic3r has some sort of coasting. But I think in their docs the option is there: &lt;a href=&quot;http://manual.slic3r.org/expert-mode/fighting-ooze&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Slic3r Manual - Fighting Ooze&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Wipe before retract - Moves the nozzle whilst retracting so as to reduce the chances of a blob forming.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you asked for G-Code here you go:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?4,620368&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Reprap Forum - Wipe nozzle via GCODE&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Example&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;;Sliced at: {day} {date} {time}&#xA;;Basic settings: Layer height: {layer_height} Walls: {wall_thickness} Fill: {fill_density}&#xA;;Print time: {print_time}&#xA;;Filament used: {filament_amount}m {filament_weight}g&#xA;;Filament cost: {filament_cost}&#xA;;M190 S{print_bed_temperature} ;Uncomment to add your own bed temperature line&#xA;;M109 S{print_temperature} ;Uncomment to add your own temperature line&#xA;G21        ;metric values&#xA;G90        ;absolute positioning&#xA;M82        ;set extruder to absolute mode&#xA;M107       ;start with the fan off&#xA;G28 X0 Y0  ;move X/Y to min endstops&#xA;G28 Z0     ;move Z to min endstops&#xA;M117 Auto-level...&#xA;G29        ;auto-level&#xA;;G92 Z-.01 ; Lower = Z Pos, Lift = Z Neg&#xA;M117 Preparing...&#xA;G1 Z10.0 F{travel_speed} ;move the platform down 15mm&#xA;G92 E0                  ;zero the extruded length&#xA;G1 F100 E30              ;extrude 10mm of feed stock&#xA;G92 E0                  ;zero the extruded length again&#xA;G1 F{travel_speed}&#xA;;Put printing message on LCD screen&#xA;M300 S900 P160         ;start beep&#xA;M300 S1000 P160&#xA;M300 S2000 P160&#xA;M0    ;Wait for the user&#xA;M117 Printing...&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://forum.lulzbot.com/viewtopic.php?t=2921&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Lulzbot forum - Start GCODE Script for Wipe&lt;/a&gt;, in particular &lt;a href=&quot;https://forum.lulzbot.com/viewtopic.php?t=2921#p17782&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this post&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Example&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;G91 ; switch to relative positioning&#xA;G1 Z10 ; safe raise of z axis to ensure probe doesn't hit bed clamp&#xA;G90 ; switch back to absolute positioning&#xA;G28 ; home all axes&#xA;G29 ; level print bed&#xA;G1 X298 Y137 Z2 F5000 ; move to wait position right hand side of the table&#xA;G1 Z0.4 ; position nozzle&#xA;G1 E25 F300 ; purge nozzle&#xA;M400 ; wait for purge to complete&#xA;G1 X285 F1200 ; slow wipe&#xA;G1 Z0.5 F1200 ; lift&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That should get you started.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2146" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-07-30T16:00:39.553" LastActivityDate="2018-07-30T16:00:39.553" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="2611" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2607" CreationDate="2016-08-07T07:21:08.960" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can achieve this using the &lt;code&gt;G1&lt;/code&gt; command. I don't know your exact printer, but you should be able to use something like this (add to the start G-code in your slicer):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;G1 X0 Y62 Z0.2 F9000 ; Move slightly past edge of bed&#xA;&#xA;G92 E0 ; Zero extruder position&#xA;&#xA;G0 E1 F100 ; Extrude 1mm of filament&#xA;&#xA;G92 E0 ; Zero again&#xA;&#xA;G1 X0 Y0 F9000 ; Move back to center of bed&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first line moves the extruder to slightly past the edge of the bed (since the diameter is 120, the radius is 60, and 62 is slightly past the maximum radius). I've set Z to 0.2mm to avoid hitting the plate, but you might be able to lower this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The next 3 lines zero the extruder position, extrudes 1mm of filament, and resets it to zero (when starting a print the slicer expects E to start at 0).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The final line moves back to the bed center. This might not be neccesary (you might be able to replace this line with just &lt;code&gt;G1 F9000&lt;/code&gt; to set the feedrate back to something that makes sense for travel moves) because you don't need to move back explicitly: the slicer will take care of moving the head in position to start the print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastActivityDate="2016-08-07T07:21:08.960" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2612" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-07T22:14:29.687" Score="7" ViewCount="973" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am looking to print an enclosure, which will have a PCB inside with some LED indicators. I was wondering if it is possible to 3D print the enclosure such that the following look can be achieved? What material and technique?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When LEDs are off, it looks something like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eUN2v.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eUN2v.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;WHen the LED turns on, it looks like this (illuminated symbols):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/X9GuC.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/X9GuC.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3802" LastActivityDate="2016-08-10T14:46:49.013" Title="3D printing enclosure with LED indication symbols -- is this possible?" Tags="|material|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2613" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1442" CreationDate="2016-08-07T22:27:29.270" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I gather from your post that you are trying to export a build file containing multiple individual pieces, possibly to be printed. I suggest using the 'Merge' tool to join each of the individual STL's into one file. You can then save it as as single part or export it to a printer. This information comes from my experience as an Additive manufacturing technician. The following link is a Github repo containing a workflow on this process:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/rp-mcguire/Magics-Build-File&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Magic's Build File Creation&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3756" LastActivityDate="2016-08-07T22:27:29.270" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2614" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2612" CreationDate="2016-08-07T22:29:11.517" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Achieving this with 3D printing would be quite difficult, and you might be better served by creating this effect some other way (I would personally recommend getting some inkjet transparencies and stacking a few layers together: an entirely black layer, and a few layers with the symbols in negative space).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One way that you &lt;em&gt;might&lt;/em&gt; be able to achieve this using just a common FDM printer is to print the part face down, and printing just a single layer or two that covers the entire face, and then printing more layers that cover everything but the symbols. However, those symbols look small and detailed and you might not be able to reproduce such detail.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastActivityDate="2016-08-07T22:29:11.517" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2615" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2618" CreationDate="2016-08-07T23:54:39.570" Score="3" ViewCount="745" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am new to 3D printing and I am assembling/calibrating an Ultimaker Original+ for my college.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am done with all the assembling and the printer works fine except for one thing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The print bed moves way up. It touches the extruder and pushes it upwards. So, the extruder cannot extrude any material.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried to set the Z axis value before string the print but as soon as I start the print the platform just moves up and blocks the extruder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please let me know if you need any more information from my side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3804" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2019-08-31T09:53:19.163" LastActivityDate="2019-08-31T09:53:19.163" Title="Print bed moves way up for printing" Tags="|z-axis|ultimaker-original|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="2616" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2612" CreationDate="2016-08-08T00:09:41.737" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;So you want a translucent case which can hide the LEDs when they are off, but show then when they are on? I agree this might not be the best fabrication method for this effect. I would print a case with a window and use a tinted laser cut plexi glass. That said, it wouldn't be that hard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KaC1K.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KaC1K.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Example of resin and other clear prints&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a few catches. First you will have 3d printing texture. The lines and ribs. So there will be light distortion. However it can be minimized by either using a resin 3d printer with ultra high quality, or by having the window side printed on the bed, avoiding the ribbing. Albeit it is still not perfect. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BrQyS.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BrQyS.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Sample of FDM with high diffusion of light&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would look at translucent materials such as Tglass. Using these clear materials you can either ally a window tinting yourself or find a seller that has a very dark, yet still clear material. This will allow the effect where a LED is off and you cannot see it, and when it is on - see it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://taulman3d.com/t-glase-features.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://taulman3d.com/t-glase-features.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tglass can be treated to be extra clear. Looks like they treat their material with XTC-3D for very translucent effects.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/S4W9j.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/S4W9j.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;talman treated with XTC-3d&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://taulman3d.com/t-glase-optics.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://taulman3d.com/t-glase-optics.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are other options such as Resins, clear ABS, and PolyCarb (high temp)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All that said. Laser cutting is really what you want.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2146" LastEditorUserId="2146" LastEditDate="2016-08-08T20:43:50.067" LastActivityDate="2016-08-08T20:43:50.067" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2618" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2615" CreationDate="2016-08-09T00:15:15.497" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is normal for an Ultimaker print bed to move up. But it should be stopped before the nozzle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As it doesn't stop the end stop doesn't work. So either the end stop is not connected to the right connector or it is triggering too late.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Z end stop must be screwed at the right hight. If you mount it too far up it will not trigger. The bed assembly has a small wooden peace that sticks up. The idea is that that wooden peace pushes the end stop at the right hight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So instead of configuring the hight in the firmware you need to mount the Z end stop at the exact right hight. You can make the fine adjustments(Bed Leveling) with the screws that hold the bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can test the end stop by manually triggering while the bed moves up. It needs to stop immediately once you trigger the end stop. If the bed does not stop, then check the connection or exchange the switch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It can happen that the switch itself malfunctions if you screwed it in too tightly. So loosening up the screws a bit is a final test.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="204" LastActivityDate="2016-08-09T00:15:15.497" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2619" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2620" CreationDate="2016-08-09T04:55:36.843" Score="7" ViewCount="2237" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Background&lt;/strong&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I just successfully installed a RepRapDiscount Full Graphic Display on my Prusa i3; and in doing so, I've upgraded all of the firmware to the latest version of Marlin, 1.1.0-RC7. With my previous version of Marlin, 1.0.2-1, everything was working perfectly. I've transferred every parameter over from my older version to my newer one. There were some aspects of code that were written differently, but essentially everything works except the Z-Axis.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Problem&lt;/strong&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The one issue that I seem to be having is with any kind of movement with the Z-Axis. When it moves, whether from the LCD or Repetier, it appears to accelerate as it is supposed to, but then gets stuck/skips a bunch of steps, and then decelerates slowly as it's supposed to. Regardless of the distance I instruct it to move, it will accelerate normally for the same amount of time/distance/steps, go into this unholy mode for a period of time/distance/steps relative to what it was instructed, and then smoothly decelerates for the exact same amount of time every time. For example, if it is supposed to move 10000 steps, it will move 100 steps smoothly, then skip for 9800 steps, and finish with another 100 steps smoothly. If, for example, it needs to move 5000 steps, it will also move 100 steps smoothly, then skip for 4800 steps, and finish smoothly the last 100 steps. Keep in mind, these numbers are completely drawn from space; they are not accurate by any stretch of the imagination. I'm just trying to paint as clear of a picture as possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Troubleshooting&lt;/strong&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At first I checked to make sure everything is mechanically sound.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The nuts move freely up and down the 5mm threaded rod. There are no points along the entire length of the rod that the nuts don't move very freely.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The stainless steel rods are well aligned and the entire Z/X-Axis carriage moves very freely along the vertical rails. The bearings appear to be fine.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I then wanted to narrow it down to being the firmware, and not electrical. For the record, maybe I'm missing something obvious, so please let me know.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I measured the voltage on my A4988 stepper drivers on the RAMPS 1.4 board, sitting on the Arduino Mega2560 R3, and it is reading 350mV. Even if I adjust the potentiometer to 550mV, I still get the same issue.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The jumpers underneath seem to be snugly in place, and all the pins on the A4988 appear to be fine as well.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The one thing I haven't checked in the section, logically analyzing, is the wires going from the board to the motors themselves, but based on the following, I don't believe that is the issue. (Although I have been wrong before)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Moving onto the firmware. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've played around with the default settings section in Configuration.h with no avail. Regardless of how low, or high, I go with any of the max acceleration settings, I cannot seem to fix the problem. It accelerates slower, but the overall effect is the same.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT   {80,80,3840,90}&#xA;#define DEFAULT_MAX_FEEDRATE          {500, 500, 5, 25}&#xA;#define DEFAULT_MAX_ACCELERATION      {2000,2000,10,2000} &#xA;#define DEFAULT_ACCELERATION          1000&#xA;#define DEFAULT_RETRACT_ACCELERATION  1000&#xA;#define DEFAULT_TRAVEL_ACCELERATION   1000&#xA;#define DEFAULT_XYJERK                20.0&#xA;#define DEFAULT_ZJERK                 0.4&#xA;#define DEFAULT_EJERK                 5.0&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Theory&lt;/strong&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At this point, if I had to guess, it has something to do with the maximum speed setting, or the microstepping. These are some of the settings that I have on the new firmware.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#if ENABLED(ULTIPANEL)&#xA;#define MANUAL_FEEDRATE {50*60, 50*60, 4*60, 60} // Feedrates for manual moves along X, Y, Z, E from panel&#xA;#define ULTIPANEL_FEEDMULTIPLY  // Comment to disable setting feedrate multiplier via encoder&#xA;#endif&#xA;&#xA;// minimum time in microseconds that a movement needs to take if the buffer is emptied.&#xA;#define DEFAULT_MINSEGMENTTIME        20000&#xA;&#xA;// If defined the movements slow down when the look ahead buffer is only half full&#xA;#define SLOWDOWN&#xA;&#xA;// Frequency limit&#xA;// See nophead's blog for more info&#xA;// Not working O&#xA;//#define XY_FREQUENCY_LIMIT  15&#xA;&#xA;// Minimum planner junction speed. Sets the default minimum speed the planner plans for at the end&#xA;// of the buffer and all stops. This should not be much greater than zero and should only be changed&#xA;// if unwanted behavior is observed on a user's machine when running at very slow speeds.&#xA;#define MINIMUM_PLANNER_SPEED 0.05// (mm/sec)&#xA;&#xA;// Microstep setting (Only functional when stepper driver microstep pins are connected to MCU.&#xA;#define MICROSTEP_MODES {16,16,16,16,16} // [1,2,4,8,16]&#xA;&#xA;// Motor Current setting (Only functional when motor driver current ref pins are connected to a digital trimpot on supported boards)&#xA;#define DIGIPOT_MOTOR_CURRENT {135,135,135,135,135} // Values 0-255 (RAMBO 135 = ~0.75A, 185 = ~1A)&#xA;&#xA;// Motor Current controlled via PWM (Overridable on supported boards with PWM-driven motor driver current)&#xA;//#define PWM_MOTOR_CURRENT {1300, 1300, 1250} // Values in milliamps&#xA;&#xA;// uncomment to enable an I2C based DIGIPOT like on the Azteeg X3 Pro&#xA;//#define DIGIPOT_I2C&#xA;// Number of channels available for I2C digipot, For Azteeg X3 Pro we have 8&#xA;#define DIGIPOT_I2C_NUM_CHANNELS 8&#xA;// actual motor currents in Amps, need as many here as DIGIPOT_I2C_NUM_CHANNELS&#xA;#define DIGIPOT_I2C_MOTOR_CURRENTS {1.0, 1.0, 1.0, 1.0, 1.0, 1.0, 1.0, 1.0}&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Solution&lt;/strong&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If anybody could help me, or even point me in the right direction, I would really appreciate it. I'm getting desperate with this new firmware version. It has all these conditional tabs that didn't exist in my other one, and I can't quite figure it out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1266" LastActivityDate="2016-08-09T12:55:35.417" Title="Z Axis getting stuck with Marlin 1.1.0-RC7" Tags="|prusa-i3|marlin|firmware|z-axis|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2620" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2619" CreationDate="2016-08-09T12:55:35.417" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The problem is likely in the MAX_FEEDRATE. Initially the moves are smooth, indicating that acceleration is not a problem. However, you have your maximum speed set to 5mm/s, which, for m5 threaded rod (with 0.5mm pitch), translates to 10 revolusions/second for the threaded rod. That is quite fast, and the stepper probably can't keep up. Try reducing the feedrate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The firmware microstepping and current settings have absolutely nothing to do with it, since these are not supported on your setup (which has physical potentiometers and microstepping jumpers).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastActivityDate="2016-08-09T12:55:35.417" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2621" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2632" CreationDate="2016-08-09T15:33:03.320" Score="28" ViewCount="62221" Body="&lt;p&gt;Related to an issue I had in &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/1205/increased-issues-with-filament-grinding&quot;&gt;this question&lt;/a&gt;, where the PTFE tube feeding my filament to the metal tip of the extruder clogged and became discolored: what are the advantages and disadvantages of changing out my extruder (Mk10 on a FlashForge Creator X) for an all-metal solution like the one advertised &lt;a href=&quot;https://store.micro-swiss.com/products/micro-swiss-mk10-all-metal-hotend-kit&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;here (by Micro-Swiss)&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I understand that the conversion would allow me to print higher-temperature materials (like nylon), but I'm also trying to figure out the trade-offs with regard to printing PLA/ABS parts. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="102" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T13:00:58.447" LastActivityDate="2019-03-26T14:28:14.373" Title="What are the advantages and disadvantages of an all-metal hot end compared to one with a PTFE heat break?" Tags="|extruder|fdm|hotend|" AnswerCount="8" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2622" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2621" CreationDate="2016-08-10T12:47:51.010" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;In general, metal extruder without PTFE feeding is useful when printing with materials that require high temperature to melt: 300&lt;sup&gt;o&lt;/sup&gt;C and above. &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://reprap.org/wiki/Polycarbonate&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Polycarbonate&lt;/a&gt; with recommended printing temperature at up to 310&lt;sup&gt;o&lt;/sup&gt;C is a good example.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PTFE melting point is around 320&lt;sup&gt;o&lt;/sup&gt;C, but it may become soft at much lower temperatures, according to RepRap wiki: &lt;a href=&quot;http://reprap.org/wiki/PTFE&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://reprap.org/wiki/PTFE&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the other hand, all-metal extruder lacks advantages that PTFE ones can provide, the most important of them is the ability to have longer retracts without risk of clogging the filament tract.&#xA;This is mostly important for users with Bowden-type extruders as well as for printing with soft or stringy filaments.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3839" LastActivityDate="2016-08-10T12:47:51.010" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2623" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2612" CreationDate="2016-08-10T14:46:49.013" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can print the &quot;lid&quot; in translucent (gray) and stick a piece of laser printed transparency film under it with the symbols (print it &quot;negative&quot; so the symbols are transparent and the rest is black). Depending on the quality of the printed black you might want to stack two printouts to minimize light sipping through the black areas. A divider separating the leds underneath ensures that only one symbol lights up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This will work better the better surface quality the &quot;lid&quot; has.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2641" LastActivityDate="2016-08-10T14:46:49.013" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2624" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-10T15:50:17.600" Score="16" ViewCount="13134" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm having a really hard time printing on my aluminum heated bed... Cleaning it just results in it being scratched (trying to scrape dried hairspray/glue/etc off) and I don't think it is particularly flat either.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was thinking of stopping by the dollar store on my way home and getting several picture frames and using the glass from them as interchangeable glass beds - this would also make it easier to take them off the printer to clean without needing to re-level the bed every time as the aluminum base would stay-put.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do you guys think the quality of it would be okay to print on? (withstand the heat, be flat enough, etc) I'm planning to coat it in purple-glue-stick as I have heard that works well for adhesion purposes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For reference: Printing PLA, Prusia i3 printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="416" LastActivityDate="2017-10-18T11:51:38.523" Title="Using dollar-store picture glass for print bed on top of original heated aluminum bed?" Tags="|pla|prusa-i3|heated-bed|build-plate|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2626" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2624" CreationDate="2016-08-10T16:11:20.743" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Picture frame glass (generally float glass) will work well enough, but count on it eventually cracking/getting chipped. It's always very flat (due to the way the production process works).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Taking it up to 100-110C for printing ABS should not be a problem, but you'll want to avoid sharp changes in temperature, and should be careful that your prints don't adhere too well: I've had PLA/PETG prints take out pieces of glass with them due to the force required to remove them from the build plate. You might want to try without any (or very little) adhesive first, and make sure your nozzle isn't too close to the build plate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastActivityDate="2016-08-10T16:11:20.743" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2628" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2624" CreationDate="2016-08-11T02:41:03.753" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've done it. Yes it will print just fine. Treat it like any other bed surface BUT... A few points to keep in mind and to consider.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Normal glass&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It will break fast. Had mine last a few weeks.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It is not strong. If your Z endstop fails then it will crack&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Higher thermal expansion than other options. So parts pop off bed when it cools&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While we are talking about beds. Lets talk about the other options. &#xA;A popular plate is Borosilicate. Here are a few points about that as a bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Borosilicate is a lot stronger.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Borosilicate in my experience can chip / flake. I had it happen to&lt;br&gt;&#xA;one of mine, never found the missing glass..&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It also has other properties such as high temp resistance and low&#xA;thermal expansion.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another option, my favorite is Tempered glass. I have never had it flake apart as I try to remove from the bed. Also it is stronger, doesn't shatter into razers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DPbzr.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DPbzr.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Tempered Glass break pattern&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can get more comparisons at &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ehow.com/facts_5786607_borosilicate-vs_-tempered-glass.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Here&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So go for it! But I would let it cool then remove parts. Be EXTRA careful removing the part from the bed. Oyster shuckers and the like are likely to break the bad while you handle it (Bad!) I will say in the long run a tempered plate will save you money. I have had some plate of tempered for over a thousand hours of printing on some of my printers. Including my Mendlemax and Dozens of HARD head crashes. Same plate from 2013!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also check the local hardware store. That is where I got my glass.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2146" LastEditorUserId="2146" LastEditDate="2016-08-11T15:40:16.990" LastActivityDate="2016-08-11T15:40:16.990" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2629" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2650" CreationDate="2016-08-11T10:27:03.247" Score="5" ViewCount="223" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm currently using FSL3d's RetinaCreate to prepare 3d-files for printing for research purposes. In this, I am relying on their &lt;a href=&quot;http://wiki.fsl3d.com/Part_3_-_Using_the_RetinaCreate_Software_to_Print#Find_Optimal_Rotation&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Optimal Rotation&lt;/a&gt; feature which rotates the object by, as far as I can tell, judging models on their stability with regards to the printing direction. After rotating the model, &lt;a href=&quot;http://wiki.fsl3d.com/Part_3_-_Using_the_RetinaCreate_Software_to_Print#Generate_Supports&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;supportstructures&lt;/a&gt; are generated to keep the model in place while printing without the bits and pieces floating about and to keep structural stability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is, as I've neither found a manual nor any source-code (and admittedly I am terrrrrible at maths), how can I describe the kind of algorithm/logic used by the software here? This is essential for me, as I need to describe this in my research. Cheers, Jesse&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3847" LastActivityDate="2016-08-19T05:28:07.040" Title="RetinaCreate Optimal Rotation" Tags="|3d-models|software|rapid-prototyping|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2630" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2624" CreationDate="2016-08-11T11:22:43.230" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am using a glass plate from a decommissioned flatbed scanner I got from the electronics trash. I cut it to size with a glass cutter and it is doing a swell job at 68°C for my PLA. The print sticks superbly during printing and almost pops off the buildplate when cooled down to less than 40°C.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am very happy with the glass as a buildplate for PLA, especially because it came for free.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="168" LastActivityDate="2016-08-11T11:22:43.230" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2631" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1544" CreationDate="2016-08-11T12:28:52.897" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Another good tip is to add some model supports directly into the model that you can just break off. Like some wings in an X along the corners of the case. So pressure is exerted more evenly across the case as it's being built. Using a big Raft will help too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="186" LastActivityDate="2016-08-11T12:28:52.897" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2632" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2621" CreationDate="2016-08-11T14:40:25.217" Score="17" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a good question to make a comparison table. All-metal hotends Vs. PTFE liner hotends.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All metal:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Works well for high (+250ºC) temperatures filaments like nylon or PC.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;No need to replace the PTFE liner (pretty obvious).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Retraction performs worse.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Plastic can get stuck to the inner walls. This can lead to clogging, more likely when changing from ABS to PLA (higher temp plastic to lower temp plastic).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PTFE liner hotend:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Limited working temperature. Above 250 PTFE will start to degrade.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;PTFE tube needs to be replaced more or less often, depending on the use of your printer.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Retraction performs better.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Plastic is less likely to get stuck in inner wall (PTFE is very nonstick).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When using PTFE liner, the plastic is melted very close to the nozzle. Unlike other techniques, in FFF/FDM 3D printing this is more desirable. E.g. to avoid 'heat creep', for a better flow control and more accurate output dimension.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course there are more points to compare. Please comment to add any other useful point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1806" LastEditorUserId="1806" LastEditDate="2016-08-12T16:32:25.517" LastActivityDate="2016-08-12T16:32:25.517" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2634" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-11T21:07:58.300" Score="2" ViewCount="264" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am using the MatterHackers MatterControl software. MatterControl has an option to convert an image into a 3d object. The image converter converts any image into an STL. I was wondering what program would work for bridging the islands? I tried SOLIDWORKS and I think the export messed up the file.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="635" LastEditorUserId="854" LastEditDate="2017-05-02T22:43:41.747" LastActivityDate="2017-05-02T22:43:41.747" Title="Bridging islands in my stencil" Tags="|3d-design|mattercontrol|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2635" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2621" CreationDate="2016-08-11T21:24:49.527" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;In addition to the filament printing temperature limits of PTFE-lined hot ends, and higher risk of jamming with all-metal hot ends, there is a significant potential print speed difference. PTFE is an insulator and putting an insulator between the heater and incoming filament will considerably slow the speed at which it can be melted. In very rough terms, a 1.75mm filament extruder with a 4x2mm PTFE liner can only extrude about half as fast as an otherwise-identical all-metal hot end. (On the order of 3-4 mm^3/sec PLA through the PTFE-lined hot end vs 7-10 mm^3/sec PLA through an all-metal hot end. It does depend on a lot of factors like nozzle size though.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is perhaps not too important for relatively slow printer styles like a Mendel/i3, but filament melting rate is the primary practical limit to print speeds in high-performance printers like Deltas or CoreXY machines. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="298" LastActivityDate="2016-08-11T21:24:49.527" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2636" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1560" CreationDate="2016-08-12T01:17:46.580" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ultem 9085, the most common ultem resin used for AM, is a blend of PEI-PC, as seen here &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.sabic-ip.com/gepapp/Plastics/servlet/ProductsAndServices/Product/series?sltPrdline=ULTEM&amp;amp;sltPrdseries=Aerospace%20and%20Transportation&amp;amp;search=Search#searchresults&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://www.sabic-ip.com/gepapp/Plastics/servlet/ProductsAndServices/Product/series?sltPrdline=ULTEM&amp;amp;sltPrdseries=Aerospace%20and%20Transportation&amp;amp;search=Search#searchresults&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ultem is a trade name for PEI alloys made by Sabic and 9085, used in filaments made by both Stratasys and 3dXtech as the two most visible suppliers are both made with this same alloy. It is used for high temperature resistance and strength and needs to be printed at upwards of 300C in a contained environment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Source-Intern at Made in Space.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3860" LastEditorUserId="3860" LastEditDate="2016-08-12T17:21:25.110" LastActivityDate="2016-08-12T17:21:25.110" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2637" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2641" CreationDate="2016-08-12T06:42:27.340" Score="12" ViewCount="11995" Body="&lt;p&gt;When using a heated bed with your printer, I have seen claims of running temperatures of 90c throughout the print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That seems like a fairly high power use to keep a large slab of, say, aluminium at 90c for long print times (ie multiple hours).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a common 'sweet spot' for operating temperature?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does it depend on material?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is a heated bed required?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3862" LastEditorUserId="3862" LastEditDate="2016-08-13T06:24:37.063" LastActivityDate="2017-10-13T12:51:34.483" Title="Heated bed - what are the benefits? Why use one?" Tags="|heated-bed|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2638" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2637" CreationDate="2016-08-12T12:10:04.433" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Googling &quot;what temperature for different filaments&quot; gives a few good links, but the top link looks golden.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://filaments.ca/pages/temperature-guide&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://filaments.ca/pages/temperature-guide&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They have temperature guides for both extrusion temperatures and heated bed, as well as suggestions for better adhesion. I'm not that experienced, but their information is similar to information I've seen elsewhere.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Their suggestion for PLA is 215-235 degrees Celsius and a bed temperature of 60 to 80 degrees. That sounds a bit hot to me but every brand (and type) of filament will perform best at different temperatures. I've had problem getting nice bridges at 210 degrees, but had excellent results at 190.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For ABS they say 230 to 240 degrees with the bed at 80 to 100.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Use these values as a starting point, when they fail you make an educated guess about what went wrong and adjust (one parameter at a time) til it works for you. Find a calibration object you like and trim the temperatures so it prints the best your printer can. At this point in the technology experimentation is a large part of making things work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One thing that's important to remember is that the temperature that you set your bed to and the temperature that your bed gets to is not the same thing. Depending on the construction, assembly and quality of your heater the actual temperature can differ anything from almost nothing to twenty degrees or more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2641" LastEditorUserId="2641" LastEditDate="2016-08-13T10:01:42.217" LastActivityDate="2016-08-13T10:01:42.217" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2639" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1444" CreationDate="2016-08-12T14:34:35.787" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;As others have said, printers ooze when heating up. I keep a business card by the printer and do a wipe on the nozzle just before it starts the print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="412" LastActivityDate="2016-08-12T14:34:35.787" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2640" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2637" CreationDate="2016-08-12T20:58:15.623" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;First you say 90c, which means you are talking about ABS likely. I state this as some PLA printers do not even use heated beds, and instead use elaborate rafts only. (Makerbot)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now that I have gotten that out of the way I wanted to point out to you that it really isn't using that much power. 110 watts (based off this fellow)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://reprage.com/post/39698552378/how-much-power-does-a-3d-printer-use&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://reprage.com/post/39698552378/how-much-power-does-a-3d-printer-use&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;8 hours. 0.11 USD. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://energy.gov/energysaver/estimating-appliance-and-home-electronic-energy-use&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://energy.gov/energysaver/estimating-appliance-and-home-electronic-energy-use&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am sure this number is not 100% spot on. That said having had used a power monitor when I first started out I can confirm getting very cheap results. Actually I calculated the costs of powering my 1 meter by 1 meter silicon heater. It was not that much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This will not apply to every printer. Some are built better than others.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Last for Min Temp. You will pick the temp that works for the specific plastic. Every plastic is different. Materials with high pigments usually need higher temps for extrusions. That said, generally PLA is 60. ABS is 90-100. When it is wrong you will see more (almost always see some) heat warping.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also want to mention that heat chambers give the best result and would not require you to use the bed as much. You don't see these on printers for two reasons. Heaters can catch fire, and because of patents blocking people from selling (nothing stopping you though. Look into just using a Box without an active heater if it is still a concern&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2146" LastActivityDate="2016-08-12T20:58:15.623" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2641" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2637" CreationDate="2016-08-12T21:08:23.000" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;Heatbeds have two purposes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Increase surface energy of the print bed to improve bonding strength of the first layer (particularly important when using surfaces like PEI or Kapton)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Keep the bottom few millimeters of the print hot enough to provide a warp-free foundation for the rest of the print. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bit about surface energy is straightforward. Most materials are stickier when hot than cold. In comparison, pure mechanical-bonding bed surfaces like fibrous painter's tape and perfboard don't particularly benefit from bed heat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Warping is a bit more complicated. The basic cause of warping is when the previous layer is allowed to cool and thermally contract before the next layer is deposited. When you stick hot, expanded material on top of cold, contracted material, large shear stresses are generated when the fresh material cools and contracts. Those inter-layer shear stresses then accumulate over many layers into large-scale bending stresses that try to lift the edges of the print off the bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, to prevent warping, we should minimize the amount that the previous layer is allowed to cool before the next layer goes down. But we DO need it to cool solid so the print doesn't sag in a mushy mess. This is a balancing act: cooling the plastic solid without over-cooling it. The optimal temperature for the print is right around the glass point of the plastic: this is the temperature at which the plastic becomes fully solid and thermal contraction stresses start to accumulate. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The extruder pumps more heat into the print as it deposits molten plastic and radiates a little bit of heat. So we want to set the heatbed temp a little bit below the glass point to ensure the print is able to cool solid. Now, this gets a bit difficult, because everyone's print bed temperature sensor is different. What matters is bed surface temp. Many people have to set their bed temp quite a bit higher than the actual surface temp. It's just something you have to calibrate via print results. The exact filament glass point (Tg) also depends on the blend. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;ABS: Tg is around 105C, optimal bed temp 95C in a warm, low-airflow environment&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;PLA: Tg is around 55C, optimal bed temp is 55C in a cool, high-airflow environment because PLA holds heat and is slow to cool compared to other filaments&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;PETG: Tg is around 70C, optimal bed temp is 60-70C with mild airflow&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Nylon doesn't really work with these rules because it's semi-crystalline, meaning it &quot;freezes&quot; far above its Tg and thus starts accumulating warping stress at fairly high temps... advice varies wildly, from printing cold to 120C bed&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;PC: Tg is around 150C, optimal bed temp is 130C&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are other schools of thought, for example printing the first layer onto a surface much hotter than Tg for good adhesion, and then dropping the bed temp to a value somewhat below Tg to allow the print to solidify. That works fine too. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But, with all that said, it's important to understand that the heatbed only keeps the bottom of the print warm. A centimeter up from the build plate, the print is typically much closer to ambient temp than it is to the bed temp. Heated build chambers are thus much more effective for large prints. But heatbeds are still quite effective, because they allow building a strong, warp-free foundation that resists warping stresses induced by the cooler zones higher up in the print. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="298" LastActivityDate="2016-08-12T21:08:23.000" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2643" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-13T08:54:59.700" Score="5" ViewCount="176" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a new German RepRap NEO 3D printer, and when I try heating the Extruder to 215°C with Repetier-Host Mac 1.0.1, it always stops at 130°C - does anybody have an idea what could be the reason?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1663" LastActivityDate="2018-02-26T17:55:56.077" Title="German RepRap NEO only heats to 130°C" Tags="|extruder|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2644" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-14T14:14:45.807" Score="5" ViewCount="3326" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm using Repetier and Slic3r and it is printing a gap between the perimeter and infill on the first layer. &#xA;Also, the infill is lifting (as in photo).&#xA;Any advise?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mXJCl.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mXJCl.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;infill issue&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3830" LastActivityDate="2021-03-25T13:27:46.393" Title="First layer - not even infill" Tags="|slic3r|repetier|infill|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2645" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2644" CreationDate="2016-08-14T21:50:36.790" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found a solution that works for me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have increased my first layer extrusion width to 250 %, reduced the print speed of perimeters to 30 mm/s, reduced the brim width to 1 and increased the infill/perimeter overlap to 30 %.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This was PLA with heat bed off (no heating), printing on glass and using hairspray as an adhesive.  Most of my settings were on default. (Repetier &amp;amp; Slic3r).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3830" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-03-25T13:27:46.393" LastActivityDate="2021-03-25T13:27:46.393" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="2647" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2644" CreationDate="2016-08-15T18:05:16.363" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You're not sticking to your bed. Adjust your bed height. You are too far.&#xA;Otherwise you are going too fast and or too hot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Calibrate the bed. Reduce speed. Then adjust temps. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also could be material contamination&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See this link for a visual troubleshooting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://reprap.org/wiki/Print_Troubleshooting_Pictorial_Guide&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://reprap.org/wiki/Print_Troubleshooting_Pictorial_Guide&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/23-a-visual-ultimaker-troubleshooting-guide&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/23-a-visual-ultimaker-troubleshooting-guide&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition use some gluestick. That will often solve these issues. Last but not least add a raft if it continues. Or just ignore it. My bet is temp is too hot. I also like to smash my first layer, but not everyone likes that technique as it causes elephant footing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2146" LastActivityDate="2016-08-15T18:05:16.363" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2648" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2643" CreationDate="2016-08-15T18:11:49.020" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A few possiblitites.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You wire is too small. If your wire is HOT that is a fire hazard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your thermistor is bad. Check with a high temp heat probe or try replacing thermistor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your heating element is bad (rare).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Last it could be a limit in your firmware. But that would surprise me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any chance you have the bed and the hotend reversed? If you had the Bed as Hotend, then it would max out around 100. This last one I would say is most likely..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2146" LastActivityDate="2016-08-15T18:11:49.020" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2649" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2634" CreationDate="2016-08-16T07:26:39.507" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should know that there will be no such functionality anywhere because &quot;make a bridge between islands&quot; causes some questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;what do you mean be bridge&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;where this bridge should be&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;how it should look like&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Application cannot answer these questions automatically. &#xA;Conver image to 3D object is (almost) only to create logo-like-objects or text-like-objects.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your image will consist more than one separate elements then MC will convert it into separate objects and these objects will be treated as separate islands. There will be no way to bridge them on certain level/layer. The only thing you can achieve is a solid &quot;connection&quot; between islands if they will be connected with line on the image. I'm sure it's not what you expect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Almost all 3D apps have a functionality to create 3D obj out of image but it will always be a perimeter or surface which you can extrude.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can create bridges in your app by creating additional 3D object according to your expectations or you can use sculpting app to extend a form. It means you won't add extra object but sculpt existing objects by  extruding/extending/pulling faces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For such sculpting you can use Meshmixer for example.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1211" LastActivityDate="2016-08-16T07:26:39.507" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2650" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2629" CreationDate="2016-08-16T09:30:43.630" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Optimal rotation can be considered from different perspectives. For example&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;as little support as possible. This way app tries to orient object so as much surface as possible doesn't overhang and doesn't need support&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;bed only support. App tries to orient object so all overhanging parts can be supported directly from the heatbed (not from the object itself)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But have a look on Meshmixer as Ryan Carlyle suggested. In this app you can see 3 kinds of auto orientation procedures. Additionally Meshmixer can create angle support and tree-like support.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In terms of mathematics. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I cannot suggest any sources but you can imagine the way it calculates such optimal rotation. Let's say it will be dead simple explanation of the second approach:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's get all faces (facets) and let's project their center points on the &quot;floor&quot; (heatbed) or &quot;ceiling&quot;. If imagined projection line slices any other faces then rotation is not optimal. App can calculate &quot;a weight&quot; of such orientation and then try to find the smallest weight of all possible orientations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course it's not that simple. App has to manage concavity, which face requires support at all, and many other aspects but in general you can imagine the algorithm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;edit&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&quot;as little support as possible&quot; could be considered as easier to imagine &quot;as little shaddow as possible&quot; and the problem can be simplified to &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Projection_(mathematics)&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;projection&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ray_tracing_(graphics)&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;ray tracing&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;similarly &quot;bed only support&quot; could be simplified to &quot;cast shaddows but not on itself&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1211" LastEditorUserId="1211" LastEditDate="2016-08-19T05:28:07.040" LastActivityDate="2016-08-19T05:28:07.040" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2651" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="505" CreationDate="2016-08-16T18:00:00.380" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use a 200&amp;nbsp;mm x 200&amp;nbsp;mm aluminum bed over an aluminum heated plate.  It is attached by bolts in the corners.  I use a proximity probe to run a leveling program and I print on the aluminum.  I don't see where my bed is bowing or causing attachment problems.  I run the leveling program with the plate at temperature (110&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C) and any bowing is handled by the software.  It works very well with ABS.  I haven't used much PLA and am still experimenting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3911" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-04-16T12:06:39.520" LastActivityDate="2019-04-16T12:06:39.520" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="2653" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1496" CreationDate="2016-08-17T14:57:36.350" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is it the Raspberry Pi that locks up, or just the webpage? If the whole thing becomes unresponsive I would consider reviewing your overclocking settings. If you've set one of the higher overclocking values in the config script, this can often lead to random lockups.  If you don't see the config script every time you boot the Pi, you can access it by typing the following into a terminal window.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;sudo raspi-config&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can find out how to change the overclocking settings from the config script in &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.raspberrypi.org/documentation/configuration/raspi-config.md&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this guide&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1649" LastActivityDate="2016-08-17T14:57:36.350" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2654" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2655" CreationDate="2016-08-18T04:34:05.640" Score="7" ViewCount="2600" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a object to print for which I want the base to be printed very rapidly because it's just a cube but as the print reached around 70 % a complex circular structure needs to be printed at a slower speed. Is there any way I could control the speed at the given percentage of job done?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want the cube to be printed at 50 mm/s and the complex circular structure at 40 mm/s.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Printer Type - FDM&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2176" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-09-01T12:02:12.443" LastActivityDate="2020-09-01T12:02:12.443" Title="How to 3D print an object with variable printing speed?" Tags="|fdm|speed|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="2655" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2654" CreationDate="2016-08-18T09:32:19.857" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.simplify3d.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Simplify3D&lt;/a&gt; has the ability to create more than one process, to be applied to the model at specific layers. It appears that feature fits perfectly with your requirements. As an example, you might create a process within S3D for layers 1 to 500 at the desired 50 mm / sec along with any other modifications you wish. The second process would specify layers 501 to 800 to be printed at 40 mm / sec.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The preview mode of S3D allows you to identify layer numbers in order to provide the necessary precision.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastActivityDate="2016-08-18T09:32:19.857" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2656" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2654" CreationDate="2016-08-18T09:43:27.323" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;As @fred_dot_u mentions, Simplify3D has the capability to do this, but you can achieve the same effect by slicing the file twice, once at 40 mm/s and once at 50 mm/s, and then manually combining the generated G-code using a text editor. You should be able to find the point where it transitions from printing the cube to printing the circular structure by looking at the Z-height, and you can simply copy-paste the G-code from that point onward from the 40 mm/s file into the 50 mm/s file.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For instance, you might look for a point like this in the G-code (Cura):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;G1 F3600 X113.543 Y94.098 E105.96969&#xA;;LAYER:25&#xA;G0 F7800 X113.743 Y91.369 Z2.700&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;or this (Simplify3D)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;G1 X175.981 Y74.019 F2880&#xA;; layer 25, Z = 1.869&#xA;; inner perimeter&#xA;G1 X162.982 Y57.870 F7500&#xA;G1 Z2.069 F900&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that the both include a comment line (a line that starts with &lt;code&gt;;&lt;/code&gt;) to indicate the layer. Everything before that you should copy from one file, everything afterwards from the other.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-09-01T12:00:10.993" LastActivityDate="2020-09-01T12:00:10.993" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="2658" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2659" CreationDate="2016-08-19T09:09:26.570" Score="2" ViewCount="116" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm currently attempting to  make a repstrap using paper printed parts, like this guy : &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mariolukas.de/2012/05/repstrap-3d-drucker-aus-computerschrott-teil-1/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.mariolukas.de/2012/05/repstrap-3d-drucker-aus-computerschrott-teil-1/&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;I replaced the DC motor in a paper printer carriage assembly&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;with a stepper motor (NEMA17). But there was not enough space to fit the axis of the nema 17 at the exact spot of the older DC motor axis, in short, the axis are not in the same place. The question is : if the axis is not in the exact same spot, will it affect the movement of the carriage or not at all ?&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8A21q.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8A21q.png&quot; alt=&quot;new and old belt driven axis&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I supposed it would but i'm not sure since the carriage is limited in movement by the rails and that we still move the belt around.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3936" LastActivityDate="2016-08-25T01:23:27.660" Title="Belt driven axis question" Tags="|reprap|belt|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2659" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2658" CreationDate="2016-08-19T09:54:13.567" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Axis should definitely be at proper position. Otherwise you will get at least 2 issues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Carriage will be pulled up which will cause stresses on rollers or slides and it will stress your belt&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The way the carriage will go will change but because carriage itself is fixed then it will change the speed&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3D printing is a precise process. Both issues will have impact on printouts and all your printouts will have broken dimension in the axis in which carriage moves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Have a look on the picture (it is big to show details)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/maQ3j.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/maQ3j.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;fig A&lt;/strong&gt; shows a situation where carriage is far from the axis&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In such situation the distance between vertical line of black cross and pink circle is almost unnoticable so both - the force and the distance (so speed) change are very small.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;fig B&lt;/strong&gt; shows a situation where carriage is relatively close to the axis&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then both - the force and the distance change is noticable &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1211" LastEditorUserId="1211" LastEditDate="2016-08-19T14:24:47.930" LastActivityDate="2016-08-19T14:24:47.930" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2661" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-20T20:47:13.940" Score="2" ViewCount="128" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to access the bed temperature of the 3D printer. I am able to get the temperatures using serial connection (Thanks to Demetris's help (&lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/1555/access-temperature-sensor-data-of-3d-printer-via-serial-connection&quot;&gt;Access Temperature sensor data of 3D printer via Serial connection&lt;/a&gt;)). The problem that I am facing now is that as soon as I give the command, I get the temperature values, however the print job stops. Is there a way around it? I want to get the temperature values as the print job goes on. TIA!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2626" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T13:00:58.447" LastActivityDate="2016-08-21T13:53:24.377" Title="Print job stops when given serial command" Tags="|extruder|heated-bed|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2662" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2661" CreationDate="2016-08-20T22:07:06.097" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Opening&lt;/em&gt; a serial connection to your printer will usually reset the microcontroller, stopping the print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The serial interface has a line known as request to send (RTS) that indicates to the microcontroller that the computer is ready to receive data. When the port is closed, this line is HIGH (indicating the computer is not ready), and when you open the serial connection the line goes LOW (indicating the computer is ready now) and the transition from HIGH to LOW triggers a reset.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a number of ways to prevent this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;In software: disable hang up on close (HUPCL). This prevents the RTS line from going HIGH after you close it, allowing it to be subsequently opened without causing a reset. However, this does not work for the first attempt (the first, initial connection still causes a reset). How this is configured depends on your software/driver set up, but it is widely supported.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;In software: disable the RTS line from going LOW in the first place. I'm not sure if this is readily possible with common serial drivers.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;In software: modify your workflow to always keep the connection open, preventing the associated reset from happening.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;In hardware: your printer's board will have some circuitry on there that translates the RTS line transitioning from HIGH to LOW to trigger a reset, usually this is implemented in the form of a single capacitor between RTS and RST. RST is normally pulled high with a pull-up resistor (on the order of 10k or so), and when RTS transitions to low the capacitor briefly allows some current to flow, pulling RST low. One way to prevent this is to include a stronger pull-up resistor that overcomes the current drain associated with the RTS line going LOW. &lt;a href=&quot;http://playground.arduino.cc/Main/DisablingAutoResetOnSerialConnection&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;DisablingAutoResetOnSerialConnection&lt;/a&gt; suggests using a 330 Ohm resistor between VCC and GND.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;In hardware: desolder the capacitor mentioned earlier.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastActivityDate="2016-08-20T22:07:06.097" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2665" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2666" CreationDate="2016-08-21T14:31:02.263" Score="20" ViewCount="2099" Body="&lt;p&gt;My goal is to 3D print a 5 liter miniature barrel with a side stand, similar to &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B009K5DSJG&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;this wooden one on Amazon&lt;/a&gt;. I want it to have a removable top so that a boxed wine bladder may be put inside, and there should be a hole on the top as well so that the spigot may stick out and be used. I have no experience with 3D modeling or printing, but I have access to a public 3D printer at my local library. I know you can print parts individually (ex. curved wood-colored sides with staves and holes to interlock and make up the body of the barrel, the metal-colored hoops to go around the barrel). I don't know what software to use, though. I was thinking of starting to learn Blender? Would that be effective for this project? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3956" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2020-07-13T11:23:05.880" LastActivityDate="2020-07-13T13:20:31.977" Title="What is the best 3D modeling software for a beginner on a 3D printed mini barrel project?" Tags="|3d-design|software|blender|" AnswerCount="9" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2666" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2665" CreationDate="2016-08-21T15:54:54.080" Score="17" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your question begins in an inappropriate format for StackExchange, but you've ended it with one more appropriate by asking if Blender would work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are willing to take the time to learn Blender, you are certain to discover that it will do as you require, and much much more. Your referenced model could be created using engineering-type design software such as Fusion 360 or SolidWorks or many of the free packages, but the free-form aspect is more suited to the flexibility of Blender.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2020 UPDATE: Fusion 360 now supports a sculpt feature, which combines organic modeling with the engineering-type for which it is previously known.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even though Blender is not an engineering-type program, it has internal support for precise modeling. Should you learn to use those features, you get the best of both types of software.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you construct your model in the software in segments/pieces as you suggest, your result will have greater flexibility at the printing stage, specifically with respect to color and filament choices. Instead of wood-colored sides, you can use wood-simulated PLA filament! Depending on the printer at the library, you could also use filamet, a filament containing 88 percent metal for the hoops.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I use Blender for some aspects of modeling, often importing the STL into Meshmixer to address things I've not yet learned in Blender.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope your reference to 5 liter is the original size and that your model will be a miniature of it. A 3d printer with 5 liter capacity would be a wonderful asset at the public library!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2020-07-13T13:20:31.977" LastActivityDate="2020-07-13T13:20:31.977" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="2667" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2668" CreationDate="2016-08-22T13:51:44.837" Score="2" ViewCount="815" Body="&lt;p&gt;Metal powders are the fastest-growing segment within the 3D printing materials market, and 3D printing with metal offers a range of highly-sought out characteristics, including immense strength, reduced weight, biocompatibility and corrosion or thermal resistance, making it ideal for high-demand industries such as aerospace, medical, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Conventional methods require focusing a very intense energy source, such as a laser or electron beam, across a bed of metal powder, fusing the powder particles together in a pre-determined pattern to create the final 3D structure. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While this method does allow for incredibly strong metal 3D structures to be produced, it has its drawbacks, mainly: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;it is prohibitively expensive and time consuming; &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;it does not allow for certain types of architectures, such as those that are hollow and enclosed, and;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;it is limited by the types of compatible metals and alloys that can be used.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If we ignore the cost, why can't we do hollow or enclosed architectures to be printed with this technique?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Source:&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.3ders.org/articles/20160817-a-closer-look-at-the-12-biggest-3d-printing-tech-innovations-of-the-first-half-of-2016.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;A closer look at the 12 biggest 3D printing tech innovations of the first half of 2016&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="334" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2017-02-01T19:24:48.973" LastActivityDate="2017-02-01T19:24:48.973" Title="Why can't powder-based 3D printing techniques create enclosed or hollow structures?" Tags="|print-material|printing-powder|metal-printing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2668" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2667" CreationDate="2016-08-22T14:03:31.830" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's not hollow &lt;em&gt;or&lt;/em&gt; enclosed structures that are a problem. It's structures that are hollow &lt;em&gt;and&lt;/em&gt; enclosed. Think about it. The machine lays down a thin layer of powder, and then a laser fuses some of that powder together to make a shape. Then, it repeats the process for the next layer. If you try to build, for example, a hollow ball, the ball gets created in the middle of the powder, meaning that there will be powder around the outside of the ball and in the &lt;em&gt;inside&lt;/em&gt; of the ball, and with the ball completely enclosed, there is no way for the powder that ends up inside the ball to get out. That's why hollow objects printed in this manner must have a hole somewhere to let out the powder contained in the object.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is not only true of metal powder, but any 3D printing process that uses a bed of powder or a volume of resin and fuses some of it into a shape. Fused deposition modelling (FDM), the process used by most consumer-level 3D printers, build models in thin air, so only air is trapped inside the printed objects, making the printing of hollow, enclosed objects less of a problem. Of course, one has to deal with gravity. A hollow object might collapse before the filament hardens enough to support its weight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1680" LastEditorUserId="1680" LastEditDate="2016-08-22T17:49:35.243" LastActivityDate="2016-08-22T17:49:35.243" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2669" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2665" CreationDate="2016-08-22T20:42:24.477" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;We get this question a lot in the facebook groups I manage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The usual answers do not include blender as it has a stupid hard learning curve. That is overkill for what you are looking to do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Look into 123d from autodesk. Free if you do not make money. I find this one to be the easiest.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.123dapp.com/design&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.123dapp.com/design&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also there is Google sketchup, with SLT out plugin. I find this one is pretty sub par due to the fact it does not create printable models well (ie missing triangles so it wont create solids, hard to fix)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sketchup.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.sketchup.com/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think this one pops up. I haven't used it and I think it costs, but worth a mention.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.rhino3d.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://www.rhino3d.com/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2146" LastActivityDate="2016-08-22T20:42:24.477" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2670" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2671" CreationDate="2016-08-23T05:58:00.500" Score="16" ViewCount="11615" Body="&lt;p&gt;This came up in one of my groups today. That we could not color bend, or mix 3d printing filaments. I have researched but I am not finding anything talking about Plastic mixing in an extruder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why is it that we cannot take say a Diamond hotend, or a hotend with 5+ inputs, and mix any color we want? (assuming all the same type, ABSm, PLA). I think it would be interesting to at the least get a gradient effect on prints.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The best I have seen is natural plastic and a marker system. Or a powder / advanced / out of hobbyist price range process that sprays ink. The only Color Bending I know of is with Recycled plastic that uses multi color. Not quite what I am looking for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2146" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-07-05T06:54:17.833" LastActivityDate="2019-07-05T12:23:00.750" Title="What is stopping us from mixing 3D filament colors in an Extruder?" Tags="|filament|hotend|color|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="2671" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2670" CreationDate="2016-08-23T08:10:46.147" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just started with google and phrase &quot;3d printing color mixing&quot; and on the first place (in fact first two were valueless adverts) I got this &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.instructables.com/id/Full-Color-Mixing-3D-Printer/?ALLSTEPS&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Instructables - DIY Full Color Mixing 3D Printer&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;How it works?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It uses magenta / cyan / yellow filaments and mixes it while printing with Diamond hotend.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It definitely does what you are asking for and it's exactly the same idea you come up with ;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Overview&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;ol&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Getting the controller board ready for three extruders... I hacked&#xA;  a RAMBo board to drive three extruders, however, you can use any board&#xA;  you want... (most people use a RUMBA due to it having all the&#xA;  pins/components needed for 3 extruders native on the board) &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Rewriting Repetier firmware to get color mixing working on your&#xA;  machine.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;How to install, configure, and use the diamond hotend - tips /&#xA;  tricks / lessons learned / etc...&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;My original Bowden extruder design and various ways to mount the&#xA;  three extruders for your set-up&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;My universal magnetic effector plate and accompanying hotend mounts&#xA;  for quickly swapping various hotends. (delta specific)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;How to design multi-color models and making STLs that can be&#xA;  exported and used as a individual STLs or combining them into an AMF&#xA;  file for slicing...&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Configuring color mixing in Repetier and Slic3r to print above&#xA;  mentioned multi-color models.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Anything else I can think of later that I can't think of now.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Comprehensive overview of Quantum Mechanical Entanglement as it&#xA;  pertains to multi-color printing (just kidding, I don't understand&#xA;  that... But I will cover multi-color printing throughly)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1211" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2019-07-05T12:23:00.750" LastActivityDate="2019-07-05T12:23:00.750" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="2672" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2670" CreationDate="2016-08-23T08:37:13.437" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;As darth_pixel points out, people have had limited success with feeding multiple colors into a diamond hotend and mixing them, but I would argue this is not truly what you're looking for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem is that when feeding multiple filaments into a diamond-style hotend, the colors do not naturally mix completely: if you look at an object printed this way the color changes with the angle you view it from.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This would not be fundamentally impossible to overcome: you could make the melt zone longer, and possibly introduce something to promote mixing (like a spiral path for the molten plastic). However, this would greatly increase the force required to extrude and make retraction near impossible. Both of these issues would reduce print quality.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The results would also not be very good, as you'd need a long purge between colors, limiting the number of distinct colors you can use in a single model while keeping the print time acceptable. Moreover, given how limited the resolution of FDM is you could not make very detailed graphics either.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Over all, you're much better served with painting or assembling parts printed in different colors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given the limited potential for color printing in FDM and the mentioned obstacles to building a color mixing hotend, I think it is natural nobody has built one (*) but that doesn't mean it is fundamentally impossible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(*) There have been some attempts, many on Kickstarter, but none have been truly successful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastActivityDate="2016-08-23T08:37:13.437" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2673" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2674" CreationDate="2016-08-23T08:51:20.780" Score="7" ViewCount="3062" Body="&lt;p&gt;The turntable support part in my microwave has broken. It is a three armed part, with small wheels at the end of each arm. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qza6i.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qza6i.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;support part&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm confident I could print a replacement, and reuse the existing wheels (since they can be removed). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The heat of the food would be unlikely to conduct through to the PLA, but I'm concerned that it might get heated up by the microwave radiation. I can't find any clear information online about whether PLA absorbs microwaves, or if it is in any other way unsuitable for this. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will this be a disaster, or should I give it a go?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3967" LastEditorUserId="3967" LastEditDate="2016-08-23T20:21:35.123" LastActivityDate="2016-08-26T14:51:12.290" Title="Can I repair my microwave with a PLA part?" Tags="|pla|food|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2674" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2673" CreationDate="2016-08-23T10:06:19.747" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would say PLA itself should not be heated up by microwave. It's because microwave oven creates oscilations which excites water particles &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Microwave_oven&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;(see microwave explanation here)&lt;/a&gt; &lt;s&gt;so assuming PLA doesn't contain water, it won't heat up.&lt;/s&gt; &lt;em&gt;(removed to not mislead as the water is not only material which heats up by microwaves. Thanx to Tom van der Zanden for being vigilant)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But as usual, it's more complicated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First. PLA can contain water as while producing it can be cooled down in water bath. Of course well made PLA will have as less water as possible as water has an influence on printing process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second. PLA is absorbing humidity so in fact it gets water inside right from the air. This unfortunately causes problems in microwave oven.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Water can be overheated and oven can overheat water above 100C. But even at 100C, PLA will not be hard anymore so your 3 arm star would &quot;collapse&quot;. Wheels could get oval or start sticking to their axis.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Eventually if high power is delivered to very &quot;wet&quot; PLA, I think it can... well maybe not explode but break.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here goes a test which shows it can be used to &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LpRIhqxVgug&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;defrost things on PLA plate in microwave&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But here Daan Snijders &lt;a href=&quot;https://brazenartifice.wordpress.com/2011/11/02/reprap-3d-printers-pla-and-moisture-problems/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;claims PLA gets soft in microwave during the test&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Will it be a disaster?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my opinion it will work only for short uses of MW. Heating up a glass of milk or so. But for longer sessions when there will be much more heat (out of heating dish) it won't work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;SHORT TEST&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;20sec and 950W gives no effect on my sample (hotend cooling fan duct)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;40sec and 950W caused the sample became a bit warm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Inspite that it's not a good idea to run MW without &quot;proper-absorber&quot; this little test confirmes my suspisious - short sessions are ok.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1211" LastEditorUserId="1211" LastEditDate="2016-08-23T12:16:53.400" LastActivityDate="2016-08-23T12:16:53.400" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2675" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2670" CreationDate="2016-08-23T14:22:00.390" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Branching off of &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/2670/what-is-stopping-us-from-mixing-3d-filament-colors-in-an-extruder#2672&quot;&gt;TomvanderZanden's answer&lt;/a&gt;, this process cannot easily be done with an extruder alone. To properly color polymers, a &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pigment&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;pigment&lt;/a&gt; must be added during the initial treatment process (otherwise applied during any heat treatment). These pigments do not necessarily allow a simple &lt;code&gt;red + blue = purple&lt;/code&gt; process to change the color for many reasons including:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Polymer Transparency&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Polymer &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Refractive_index&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Refractive Index&lt;/a&gt;. Kinda goes with Transparency, but how light interacts with the surface of the material might set how people perceive the color.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Polymer Quality (how &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.businessdictionary.com/definition/virgin-material.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;virgin&lt;/a&gt;&quot; it is). Non-virgin material may mean that impurities absorb the pigments easier or refract light differently, giving a different color.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pigment#Scientific_and_technical_issues&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Pigment Quality&lt;/a&gt;. If a cheaper pigment is used, it may not bind as well with the polymer.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;etc&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The above variables may hinder the desired color in even a single batch of plastic, let alone trying to mix two together. Also consider, that the pigments in each filament spool will be deluded as it has already bonded to the current filament. Review a phase diagram for an optimal temperature and time to introduce pigments.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The best case would be to create your own &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Masterbatch&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;masterbatch&lt;/a&gt; and somehow re-color the filament as you would in a normal manufacturing process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="98" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T13:00:58.447" LastActivityDate="2016-08-23T14:29:59.127" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2676" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2677" CreationDate="2016-08-23T14:44:32.567" Score="6" ViewCount="274" Body="&lt;p&gt;For a while now, I have been thinking about designing things such as small bedside tables, game/dvd/bluray racks for 3d printing. I've always thought that making them modular would be a good way to go about doing this as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Modular design would help to create an end result that is vastly larger than the print volume of my 3d printer. I might even be able to recycle models for use in other projects. However, I'm not sure of what I need to think about if I decide to go ahead with these ideas I have floating around in my head.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm assuming that certain joints (dovetail, etc), tolerances for different types of plastic due to shrinkage, and print settings (% infill, in particular) would be important to have thought about and evaluated to some extent, but I'm not sure about what else I might be missing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So my question is to anyone who has designed anything to be modularly printed. Have you really had to think carefully about the engineering side of the print? Or am I simply overthinking this? Should I just design what I want and give it reasonable infill, walls and whatnot, and just go for a trial and error approach? I'm sure there is a method to this madness, but is a concrete understanding of this type of engineering absolutely paramount when it comes to this sort of stuff?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: Although I've marked darth pixel's answer as accepted, I'm still going to follow JKEngineer's advise and check out that book as well since I feel as though proper engineering techniques alongside a good mentality towards how I would tackle the problem (as outlined in darth pixel's answer) would prove to yield better results in the long run.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3970" LastEditorUserId="3970" LastEditDate="2017-02-14T01:01:25.193" LastActivityDate="2017-02-14T01:01:25.193" Title="What should I think about if I want to design something modular?" Tags="|3d-models|quality|print-preparation|print-strength|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2677" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2676" CreationDate="2016-08-23T15:18:25.060" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;All printers are designed with an idea of &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/WYSIWYG&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;WYSIWYG&lt;/a&gt; for sure. Depending on:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;printer - type/quality/settings/configuration/assembly precission&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;filament - type/quality/shrinkage&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;user skills - manual/using app proficiency&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;model complexity&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;environment conditions and so on&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;you can get different results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I venture to say users know their printers (after some time and by trials and errors) so they know how to manage dimensions to compensate all above so you will get this knowledge too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mathematical formula can describe shrinkage of the material, all other elements are very hard to describe (mathematically) in a general way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course someone can simplify it and say: more money you spend better effects you'll get. It's sometimes true ;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So all your modular things will be better and better if you will increase (what is to be increased) in above points especially &quot;user skills&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is engineering paramount? It depends of whay you gonna create. If your modular things have to lock itself, have to have threads, screws and such stuff then this is engineering. Is it the most important part of the design? Not necessarily.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would say 3D printing moved engineering to next level. I'm talking about &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:258201&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:249341&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt;. Is it still art or engineering? :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is my receipt:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;think &gt; imagine &gt; design &gt; rethink &gt; redesign &gt; give it a try &gt; get back to thinking&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;good luck&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1211" LastEditorUserId="1211" LastEditDate="2016-08-24T04:51:26.883" LastActivityDate="2016-08-24T04:51:26.883" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2678" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-23T17:22:01.433" Score="4" ViewCount="356" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been 3D printing parts with an Objet 30 Polyjet 3D printer for about a year now, primarily using Stratasys VeroWhitePlus UV cured model material. In general, the parts seem to become more brittle over time, which I assume is due to the parts continuing to cure due to exposure to light. However, I have also noticed that when exposed to moisture for extended periods of time the parts are prone to warping even under little strain at room temperature. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know that the material does display thermoplastic properties to some extent, but I was wondering if someone might be able to provide me with some additional information about the long-term material properties of either this particular material or similar UV cured 3D printed plastics. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The deformation of the parts in the presence of moisture, in particular, has me really confused, so any information about why this would occur would be greatly appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3972" LastActivityDate="2017-01-01T17:04:42.983" Title="What are the long term material properties of VeroWhitePlus 3D printer material?" Tags="|print-material|uv-printer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2679" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2673" CreationDate="2016-08-23T23:48:13.907" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes.  You can.&#xA;I would think ABS would be a better idea, as it melts at a higher temp.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:385288&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:385288&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1397" LastEditorUserId="1397" LastEditDate="2016-08-24T23:08:07.657" LastActivityDate="2016-08-24T23:08:07.657" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2680" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2665" CreationDate="2016-08-24T05:17:55.103" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;To the people saying 123design. I can only say I have been a blender user way before 3D printing was a thing and just cant get around learning 123design. It just feels so limited as it only have a few tools. Yes blender might have a hard learning curve but it does pay off in the future as you wont be limited to 3D printing models and its crucial to make more complex models &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1597" LastActivityDate="2016-08-24T05:17:55.103" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2683" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2670" CreationDate="2016-08-25T00:22:36.410" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;The three in one print head &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/S1lJ6.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/S1lJ6.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;  is the closest to your concept of gradient printing and does some nice transitions.  But does not meet your color mixing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which I assume your looking for there is something like blue and yellow making green and by varying those percent getting shades of green. &#xA;The three in one head does get close to a dot by dot transition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have since I first seen the crowd funding request for the Palette been dwelling on this same concept true color printing in 3D like a laser printer prints paper. &#xA;The Palette &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.mosaicmanufacturing.com&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Palette web site&lt;/a&gt; is moving closer to color mixing or fast transitions for multiple colors and again can make flowing color changes but still not a true mixer.  But is is still color striping.  I want one for simple sake of switching color spools with out pulling off and re-feeding filament.   And for my Rostock allowing two to four color switching with a single head.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For many months I have pondered taking their unit  for its software ability to pre-switch colors and feed it with a three color head. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My plan that I have been mulling for months now is cross mixing of their color switcher with five into one extruder with not a print nozzle but a 1.75 or 3mm filament production nozzle to produce a software timed output based on desired print color effect.  Then feeding that to your single nozzle printer would make a true multi-color mixer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As I was thinking on assembling myself this and put it out there for use, but first I hate doing a lot of programing, second I have health issues slowing me down, third is way to many project.  So here is a concept.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Five extruders,  CYM-BW cyan, yellow, magenta, black, white&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;These feed a forming nozzle 1.75mm out into a pfte tube going to printer extruder&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The forming nozzle is several centimeters long and has it own secondary heater.  The interior is milled with a 5 in to a swirl wall (like a mixing nozzle on epoxy).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Color filament feeding three of the nozzles are your primary colors set in the center of the color range.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;PrintCOLOR(C, Y, M) command set basically like other color sets 0-255 range.  Difference being is 0 is white filament, 254 is black filament, 255 is no filament, 127 is pure color.  With 1-126 gradient mix of white and color, 128-253 gradient mix of black and color.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Feed by extruders into mixer must total extruder speed of printer, which is where need for PrintCOLOR(C, Y, M) programming is required.  For instance making green out of C and Y.  PrintCOLOR(127, 127, 0) would need half speed blue and half speed yellow.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So who knows maybe some one like the makers of Palette or some crowd funder can run with this.&#xA;I think it is fully do able.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Three color diamond head can not produce WHITE by mixing. To print white requires dropping one color to substituting in the white. And it requires major modification to many printers to add. The CYM filament picked for use on a diamond head alone sets the maximum darkness allowed. Having ability to mix white and black to CYM solves this issue. 5 color CYM-WB is minimum to get a true mix.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3986" LastEditorUserId="3986" LastEditDate="2016-10-17T16:43:27.027" LastActivityDate="2016-10-17T16:43:27.027" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2684" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2658" CreationDate="2016-08-25T01:23:27.660" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;A rotation of the stepper motor 90 degrees clockwise or counter-clockwise would move it more to the center.  You would only need lengthen or shorten the belt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3986" LastActivityDate="2016-08-25T01:23:27.660" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2685" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2673" CreationDate="2016-08-25T12:59:57.120" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You really shouldn't&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;PLA &quot;glass point&quot; (the temperature where it starts to get soft) is approximately 60C, even if it doesn't heat up from the microwaves it's way to likely the ambient temperature in the microwave will reach that level and cause the part to collapse (even if you &quot;never&quot; get it hot - it only have to get to 60C once during the lifetime of the part).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;PLA is not safe for cooking (or even for food storage) and your typical PLA filament isn't even pure PLA, only god knows what chemicals there are in your specific brand of filament and what will be released into the air inside the microwave when it's heated.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In first glance ABS seem to be a better option because it has an higher glass point and food-safe ABS exists - but it's still bad because even food-safe-ABS is only safe for cold and room temperature food.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know about other materials.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="170" LastActivityDate="2016-08-25T12:59:57.120" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2686" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2654" CreationDate="2016-08-25T13:25:48.083" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cura has a plugin called &amp;quot;Tweak at Z&amp;quot; that lets you change the speed at a specific layer/height, I used it when printing an object that's basically a curved box for 100 mm and then has tiny features in the last 10 mm and it worked very well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="170" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-09-01T11:59:14.713" LastActivityDate="2020-09-01T11:59:14.713" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="2687" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2673" CreationDate="2016-08-26T14:51:12.290" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are &lt;strong&gt;Food Safe PLA filaments&lt;/strong&gt;. These PLA filaments share similar qualities with ABS, in regards to temperature extremes et al. There are several on the market. (Eg. &lt;a href=&quot;https://shop.germanreprap.com/en/pp-plastic-600g-3mm-black&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://shop.germanreprap.com/en/pp-plastic-600g-3mm-black&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.formfutura.com/hdglass/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.formfutura.com/hdglass/&lt;/a&gt; -- I've not used the HD glass personally but have been told it works well)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When shopping for food safe PLA filaments check for the Material Safety Data Sheet (MSDS) that comes with the filament. It will contain all the normal chemical warnings, some composition information, etc. but will also indicate if the material is Food and Drug Administration(FDA) approved.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PLA, food safe or not, can also have bacterialogical issues--the material is pourous enough to allow for bacterial growth. I would suggest using a polyurethane to seal the printed part to limit bacterial growth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will need to check what sort of extruder you have on your pinter. Many brass extruders also contain lead which can leach into the printed product. Switch to a stainless steel print head to avoid this issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;General care--warm soapy water and handwashing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would not, as yet, recommend any printed product as a vessel for food--cup/bowl. This element is still somewhat new and I don't personally trust the materials for extended contact with food. (Knives/spoons et al. have much shorter contact with food vs. a plastic mug of hot coffee).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For your intended application, the piece in question would not come into direct contact with food to be consumed. As such, you should be fine with the correct filament.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4000" LastActivityDate="2016-08-26T14:51:12.290" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2688" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2624" CreationDate="2016-08-26T18:45:20.070" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was driving down the street the other day and saw a very nice OLD and LARGE mirror on a lawn at a garage sale.  It was about 36&quot; x 28&quot;.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sale price?  $5.00&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm going to be using it for my MPCNC machine to allow me to print large prints on glass.  The reason I like the OLD mirrors is that they are much thicker than the new ones and therefore more durable and solid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're trying to stay economical, you can probably find an old mirror at a garage sale somewhere.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That being said, I currently print on glass with a heated bed and spray it with Aquanet Hair Spray.  I have discovered that with PLA, if I heat the bed to 60 Celsius before printing and then allow it to cool down to room temperature before removing the print job, I am able to very easily remove items from the glass.  Very little effort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, in summary, I'd recommend using Glass or a Mirror as your surface, heating it to 60 celsius before you print, spray it with aquanet hair spray, and you'll be glad you did.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1647" LastActivityDate="2016-08-26T18:45:20.070" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2689" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2690" CreationDate="2016-08-26T18:59:13.000" Score="8" ViewCount="6857" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have printed a MPCNC machine.  It has a print area of about 30&quot; x 30&quot; and up to 11&quot; tall.  (yes, those numbers are correct).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found a perfect piece of glass at a garage sale for $5.00 to use as my print bed.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My problem now is how to heat the glass?  I was wondering if there is some sort of tape that would perhaps mimic what is on the rear window of a car, but I couldn't find it anywhere.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas or links to something that can get me some progress on my search would be greatly appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1647" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2019-11-06T14:04:18.757" LastActivityDate="2019-11-06T14:04:18.757" Title="How do you heat a large glass print bed?" Tags="|heated-bed|glass-bed|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2690" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2689" CreationDate="2016-08-26T19:36:18.717" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your best option may be to seek out a silicone rubber heating mat, using those terms for your web search. A quick search on my part shows many resources, some of which are known to the 3d printing manufacturing world, while others are equally suited for that purpose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't bond the heater to the glass. You'll need to replace it when it breaks. Consider to use borosilicate glass for better heat tolerance and smaller chance of breakage. A quick search for such a large size pane comes up empty, invalidating that suggestion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've read of some people using water bed heaters for large area coverage, but they may heat the area unevenly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It could be to your advantage to use multiple heater panels with temperature controls for each one. This would provide more uniform heating although more complex temperature management.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would post links, but there are so many from which to choose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastActivityDate="2016-08-26T19:36:18.717" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2691" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2689" CreationDate="2016-08-26T21:25:01.733" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Maybe you can stick a &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nichrome&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot; title=&quot;nichrome&quot;&gt;nichrome&lt;/a&gt; wire under the glass using a heat resistant tape. You'll have to make the appropriate calcs (or just trial/error) to achieve the desired temperature at a consistent timing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4005" LastActivityDate="2016-08-26T21:25:01.733" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2692" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2689" CreationDate="2016-08-26T22:02:53.543" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;It will be very difficult to heat such a large bed, simply because of the enormous power required. &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eure74A9HNc&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Thomas Sanladerer recommends at least 0.6&amp;nbsp;W/cm²&lt;/a&gt; but notes 0.4&amp;nbsp;W/cm² also works (but takes &quot;forever&quot; to reach the target temperature).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a 30&quot;x30&quot; bed, 0.6&amp;nbsp;W/cm² would come out to 3.5&amp;nbsp;kW. At 110&amp;nbsp;V that would require 32&amp;nbsp;A and at 220&amp;nbsp;V, 16&amp;nbsp;A. These are extremely large currents, perhaps more than you can draw from a single circuit: both in the EU and US sockets tend to be fused at around 15-20&amp;nbsp;A (the standard EU Schuko plug itself is only rated for 16&amp;nbsp;A).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will be forced to go with a lower amperage, for 0.5&amp;nbsp;W/cm² you &quot;only&quot; need 27&amp;nbsp;A@110&amp;nbsp;V or 14&amp;nbsp;A@220&amp;nbsp;V. 0.4&amp;nbsp;W/cm² is 21&amp;nbsp;A and 11&amp;nbsp;A respectively&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As such, if you are in the US, then it will be &lt;em&gt;impossible&lt;/em&gt; to heat such a bed from a standard wall outlet. In the EU it might just about be possible, but make sure that the wiring in your house is in good state and capable to carry the current required (and note that running electrical equipment at its maximum rating for an extended period of time is never a good idea).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are in the US, you should definitely look into getting 3-phase power installed. If you are in the EU, you might also consider this as an option. It is able to deliver more power, but you'd need a special type of heater.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are some suppliers that make custom silicone heater mats. If you can get one in this size that would be a good option, though it would be considerably more expensive than your \$5 piece of glass.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In any case you should not attempt a DIY solution because this is extremely dangerous. The currents you are dealing with should not be underestimated. People have already set their printers on fire due to using high currents at 12/24&amp;nbsp;V; you do not want to make a similar mistake using even higher currents at 110&amp;nbsp;V.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-07-05T07:17:37.800" LastActivityDate="2019-07-05T07:17:37.800" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="2693" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2694" CreationDate="2016-08-27T13:46:01.610" Score="0" ViewCount="1269" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently bought a Geeetech Prusa i3 x. After two full days assembling I can finaly try to print something. Having put in the filament into the extruder no filament actually came out of the nozzle. I opened up my extruder and the filament seems to be stuck in the nozzle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/r5RDA.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/r5RDA.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Filament stuck in nozzle&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that I have tried heating the nozzle up and both pushed and pulled but no movement.&#xA;Does anyone know what to do?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks,&#xA;Merijn&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4008" LastEditorUserId="26" LastEditDate="2016-08-27T13:50:50.937" LastActivityDate="2016-08-27T14:04:10.867" Title="Filament is stuck in nozzle" Tags="|filament|nozzle|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2694" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2693" CreationDate="2016-08-27T14:04:10.867" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a number of options you could try. If heating up the hotend does not work, you'll have to disassemble it. Remove the nozzle and the heatbreak (the threaded part). To disassemble the nozzle, you will need to heat it up and use pliers or wrenches to unscrew the parts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You can use a blowtorch to melt and burn out the plastic that is stuck. Make sure to do this outside.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You can use solvents to dissolve the plastic. This works especially well with ABS, which can be dissolved in acetone. You can also try dissolving different plastics with acetone, but for example PLA does not really dissolve in acetone (it does become somewhat soft, so this can still be helpful towards getting it out). You could also try using other solvents if acetone does not work for your particular plastic, but consider these tend to be quite toxic compared to acetone so be careful. Note that in any case, the plastic will need to soak in the solvent for at least a few hours or overnight.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do not try to disassemble it while cold, the expansion and contraction of metal with heat makes this impossible. When reassembling, be sure to heat up the nozzle before giving it a final tightening (again, this is to make sure that when the nozzle expands as it is heated, it makes a tight seal).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastActivityDate="2016-08-27T14:04:10.867" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2695" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2676" CreationDate="2016-08-27T14:48:03.627" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;A book you would benefit from reading is &quot;Functional Design for 3D Printing...Designing 3D Printed things for everyday use - 2nd Edition&quot;  by Clifford Smyth.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It deals with FDM printing only.  It deals with considerations of orientation of the parts being printed to address required strength in the 3 directions (x, y, z), tolerances, and designing parts in such a way that they can be assembled, have the strength needed, have flexibility, etc.  In some instances he shows how to split a single functional part into multiple parts so that, when assembled, it actually performs as required.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's available from Amazon at &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/1511572027&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Book on Amazon&lt;/a&gt;.  I received it as a present and have no commercial interest in it.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a review: &lt;a href=&quot;http://3dprintingforbeginners.com/book-review-functional-design-for-3d-printing/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Book Review on 3D Printing for Beginners&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2043" LastEditorUserId="2043" LastEditDate="2016-08-27T15:38:20.017" LastActivityDate="2016-08-27T15:38:20.017" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2696" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2670" CreationDate="2016-08-27T15:57:01.593" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;A Kickstarter campaign just finished for a full color 3D FDM printer, the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/ordsolutions/rova4d-full-color-blender-3d-printer/description&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;RoVa4D Full Color Blender 3D Printer&lt;/a&gt;.  It used CYMK printing and includes black and white filament for 5 color filament feeds, plus additional feeds for flexible and support filaments.  They raised \$216k against a target of \$25k.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The company that is doing this has other printers in production, I believe.  This one adds the color capability.  It's planned for 12&quot;x12&quot;x18&quot; print volume. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am not associated with the project. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2043" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-07-05T06:55:12.867" LastActivityDate="2019-07-05T06:55:12.867" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="2697" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2698" CreationDate="2016-08-28T00:32:36.523" Score="-2" ViewCount="1778" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am an absolute beginner when it comes to 3d printing. I want to get into the hobby by designing aero automotive parts such as fender flares, custom gauge and switch pods, lips etc. I've never taken a CAD course but I would say I'm proficient enough with computers as I work as a developer. My uncle is an architect and it seems like autocad might be something good to go with. What are some other good alternatives that allow accurate modeling down to millimeters and possibly breaking larger objects into smaller 3d printable pieces to mash together? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4013" LastActivityDate="2016-08-28T01:19:03.220" Title="What is a good software for designing car parts" Tags="|3d-design|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2016-08-30T17:54:00.923" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2698" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2697" CreationDate="2016-08-28T01:19:03.220" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You've avoided a number of attributes of a poor question by specifying your objective in detail, while also providing some indication of your experience. AutoCAD is not well known as being 3d printer friendly, although a skilled AutoCAD design user may be able to create acceptable models.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One could consider more organic modeling software such as Blender, although it works in reverse of my comment above. It's great for free-form model building but not so much for engineering type construction. Again, a competent Blender user can avail himself of the parametric aspects of the software, but it's more work than one would necessarily desire to engage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;SolidWorks has a number of followers in the 3d modeling community. My experience with the software has shown me that it can be learned fairly quickly and is powerful enough to allow one to explode creatively over time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The structure of Solidworks workflow fits in directly with your description, both to the reference to accurate modeling as well as the break-apart aspect. The construction of a model in SW is done via sketches and various actions performed on resultant objects created from those sketches. It's not free software, rather pricey, but it may also save you so much work as to pay for itself over time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are other options, of course, some of which are free to students and hobbyists. I did a quick Google search for &quot;free parametric 3d modeling software&quot; which resulted in this link:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.matterhackers.com/articles/finding-the-right-3d-modeling-software-for-you&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://www.matterhackers.com/articles/finding-the-right-3d-modeling-software-for-you&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will find many suitable programs in the list generated from that link, as well as many that are unsuitable for the reasons mentioned previously.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Consider also to view YouTube videos of your candidate selections. Most of the programs referenced will have tutorial videos which can give you a clearer idea of how well it fits your needs and perhaps how easily it can be understood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastActivityDate="2016-08-28T01:19:03.220" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2699" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-29T07:57:33.620" Score="2" ViewCount="557" Body="&lt;p&gt;Has anyone used the Chinese replicas of the E3D titan extruders and multi-extrusion hotends? Are they reliable compared to the original ones?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any other issues or advantages, please share.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4022" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2019-09-30T10:14:47.203" LastActivityDate="2019-09-30T10:14:47.203" Title="Chinese replicas of the E3D titan extruder" Tags="|diy-3d-printer|e3d-titan|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="4" ClosedDate="2016-09-15T07:12:22.243" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="2700" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="938" CreationDate="2016-08-29T09:19:19.250" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;Polypropylene CAN be printed with excellent results, you just need a good filament roll and good printing setup.&#xA;A few days ago I read this topic and was kind of afraid of testing it, now I am so happy I tried it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am printing the PP filament from the brand Smart Materials 3D (search on google).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am using a Prusa i3 Mk2, bed heated to 70ºC and hotend to 210ºC. I ventilate the printer as much as possible: room windows open and fan at 100% after second layer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;IMPORTANT: apply some cheap brown packaging adhesive strips to the bed, where the part is going to touch the bed, with adhesive facing down. I tried many other solutions but none worked.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8SBUz.gif&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8SBUz.gif&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have printed so far at 20mm/s constant, with 0.2 mm layer heigth, 0.4 mm extrusion width, 0.8mm retraction, flow 125%. Still optimizing setings.&#xA;Parts come out very nice, with good flexibility and amazing inter layer bonding. Density is a bit lower than ABS, so excellent, and impact resistance is awesome.&#xA;Check some parts I printed today:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/m3bXX.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/m3bXX.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4023" LastActivityDate="2016-08-29T09:19:19.250" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2701" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-29T20:08:00.503" Score="7" ViewCount="561" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Mini Kossel and I am going through calibration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can home carriages and find the bed with paper-test getting some Z value with &lt;code&gt;M114&lt;/code&gt;. Then I run the effector almost full height &lt;strong&gt;up and then down&lt;/strong&gt; - and now &lt;strong&gt;Z value for the bed is greater&lt;/strong&gt;!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I repeat the process I get greater and greater values in paper-test. It seems that travel per step is different moving in different directions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I fix that? I am using RAMPS 1.4 with Marlin firmware.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;UPDATE:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Z values near bed after subsequent runs of five passes of &lt;code&gt;G1 X100 G1 X10&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;100% speed: 0.1 0.3 0.5 0.7 1.0&#xA;&#xA; 20% speed: 0.1 0.4 0.9 1.4 4.6 6.6&#xA;&#xA;300% speed: 0.0 0.7 1.0 1.3&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4036" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2017-06-13T11:42:48.007" LastActivityDate="2017-06-13T11:42:48.007" Title="Kossel accumulates error along Z axis" Tags="|calibration|delta|kossel|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2702" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-30T00:54:34.480" Score="4" ViewCount="555" Body="&lt;p&gt;What parameters are needed when preparing to model a 3D printed part in (ANSYS or Abaqus)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there specific tests?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We have been using FDM printing, with PLA. Our parts are for a quadcopter arm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not worried immediately about having a strong part, I'm ultimately interested in modeling any 3D printed part. I think more important parameters are the printing parameters like bed temp, nozzle temp, layer height etc..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4038" LastEditorUserId="115" LastEditDate="2016-09-03T08:20:50.537" LastActivityDate="2016-12-11T23:09:52.103" Title="Materials testing of 3D printed parts" Tags="|3d-models|print-material|support-material|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2703" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-30T05:16:26.640" Score="3" ViewCount="152" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know of an accurate method for building a dwg file from a scan of a scaled drawing or plan. The dwg files will also be referenced for or made into 3d models so pulling the information straight into a modelling software would work too if possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4043" LastActivityDate="2022-02-02T21:36:58.513" Title="What is needed to create dwg from drawing?" Tags="|3d-models|3d-design|software|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2022-02-02T17:20:47.460" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2704" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2703" CreationDate="2016-08-30T06:38:57.590" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's not an easy task and according to my knowledge there is no way to do it fully automatically (I might be wrong of course).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You have options as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Read scans and ...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;recreate it manually in CAD application&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;recreate it using a &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Graphics_tablet&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;digitizer&lt;/a&gt; (in the old days they had pucks - a kind of magnifier with crosslines to digitize from printouts/blueprints)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;create 3D object omitting 2D drawings&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;convert bitmap to vectors in 2D app&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;use a scanning service &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.amsimaging.com/blueprint-scanning&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;like this&lt;/a&gt; (would be expensive)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on complexity of your schemas, the easiest way, would be option 1 or 3. Option 4 is very doubtful (even if it's the most automatic way, it won't create useful data).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The most of CAD apps have an option to import bitmaps and then work on such a &amp;quot;background&amp;quot;. For example, in AutoCAD use command &lt;a href=&quot;https://knowledge.autodesk.com/support/autocad/learn-explore/caas/beta/CloudHelp/cloudhelp/2015/ENU/AutoCAD-Core/files/GUID-0F75E36F-6138-424C-9510-5847CE1D8852-htm.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Imageattach&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1211" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2022-02-02T21:36:58.513" LastActivityDate="2022-02-02T21:36:58.513" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="2705" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2701" CreationDate="2016-08-30T09:54:18.040" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to discussions in comments, I'm pretty sure the problem lies in too low current. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please review &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/1480/how-do-you-make-sure-you-have-the-right-voltage-on-the-timpots-on-a-a4988-steppe/1483#1483&quot;&gt;this answer&lt;/a&gt; to &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/1480/how-do-you-make-sure-you-have-the-right-voltage-on-the-timpots-on-a-a4988-steppe/&quot;&gt;How do you make sure you have the right voltage on the trimpots on a A4988 stepper driver?&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Why it happens?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If there is not enough current then motors can omit some steps as the stress is not equal while going up and down. Sometimes inertia can have higher influence than friction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally because the resistance/stress/friction on towers is different for sure then there are some issues in centering hotend.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So friction/inertia/assembly inaccuracy and current settings inaccuracy can cause such effects. If you are &quot;on the edge&quot; your printer may work well one day but the other day it can fail positioning. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please refer to post mentioned above. Perform calibration and temperature test (finger test could be ok). I hope you'll manage the issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1211" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2017-06-13T11:38:54.270" LastActivityDate="2017-06-13T11:38:54.270" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2706" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2701" CreationDate="2016-08-30T10:52:02.447" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;After some more testing I checked that the problem shows up only on Z tower and is not related with current. Examining the tower I found very dumb mistake. Pulley on the motor didn't have a setscrew! Don't know how could I missed that. The fact that it could somehow run is even more amazing. Thanks @tom-van-der-zanden and @darthpixel for help. It is for sure that such synchronization failure could have been caused by current shortage as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;UPDATE:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Oh! Y tower pulley doesn't have setscrew as well! But it was running smoothly and in sync with X (which has that screw). Amazing. - UPDATE2. Not really. After closer look only Z tower misses the screw, which explains all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;UPDATE3:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After setting a srew into pulley the problem is completely gone!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4036" LastEditorUserId="4036" LastEditDate="2016-08-30T11:18:00.193" LastActivityDate="2016-08-30T11:18:00.193" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2708" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-30T16:30:28.117" Score="5" ViewCount="378" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking for a 3D printer for applications in the dental field, for printing digital dental models (not for itra-oral use parts).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Resolution and finish are the main requirements that we consider necessary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any suggestion?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4050" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-07-06T13:53:49.003" LastActivityDate="2018-07-06T13:53:49.003" Title="Can anyone suggest what technology and 3D printing material is most suitable for printing of dental models?" Tags="|print-material|medical|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2709" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-30T18:51:04.977" Score="17" ViewCount="23523" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm a beginner. I've a Printrbot Play with a heated bed add-on. I'm using it exclusively with PLA.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It worked great initially, but then I took the nozzle out and put it back in, and the Z calibration was lost (and I didn't know the calibration was a thing). As a result, I started having issues with the piece warping up and not sticking to the bed in the corners and around the edge, when the piece was large and flat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've installed the heated bed. I used Kapton tape. All these made it perhaps a little better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally I started tweaking the Z axis calibration (the fine adjustment for the initial distance between nozzle and bed) and that made it perfect. No warping anymore.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But now I have the opposite problem. When printing pieces with large flat surfaces that are siting flush with the bed, it's next to impossible to tear it off at the end.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I went back to using plain blue tape instead of Kapton, but it's still sticking too well to the bottom of the piece. I tried to pry it off by pushing a knife under the piece, but that has put a few scratches on the bed. Obviously I don't want to continue doing that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What can I do? How to prevent warping, while also making sure the piece does not stick too hard to whatever is underneath?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT:&lt;/strong&gt; The accepted answer was very good and I don't want to mess with it by adding my own &quot;answer&quot;. So here it is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I ended up adding a glass plate on top of the bed, with a heat conductive layer between bed and plate (it's a funny looking, rubbery, chewing-gum-y material that conducts heat). Now I just apply glue stick on the glass and print. Works great. Large pieces come off on their own sometimes if I let them cool down to 30 C or lower.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had some issues with the Z calibration sensor due to the plate, eventually got solved, but that would take too long to explain here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4002" LastEditorUserId="14562" LastEditDate="2020-07-04T14:21:43.097" LastActivityDate="2022-01-01T05:42:05.123" Title="Prints are now sticking too well to the bed. What to do?" Tags="|pla|adhesion|post-processing|warping|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="2710" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2711" CreationDate="2016-08-30T19:43:39.117" Score="7" ViewCount="509" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;SOLVED: I replaced the leads coming from the fan motor and it is working just fine. Thanks for the input. If anyone else has this model, I would suggest printing and installing a wire clip in order to prevent the issue. Here is the one that I am using now: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:620627&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:620627&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am running a Printrbot Simple Metal with a heated bed and have not been able to get my fan to run recently. The fan used to run just fine (for the past 3 months in fact--since purchase). I cannot be certain, but this may be related to the cord getting snagged by the hot-end last week (cables have begun to sag over time). Nothing melted or damaged except for the hard-plastic coil used to bundle all cables together, and that appears to just be minor, cosmetic damage. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have checked Cura settings, ensuring that fan operation is selected (starting at 0.6 mm) and that it is being told to run at 100%.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have also sent 'M106 S255' from Proterface UI (this, from what I have researched, should turn the fan on at 100%). This command had no results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The firmware is stock (Marlin), all exposed cables seem intact and without damage, and the plug to the control board seems to be fine. Maybe I could apply current to it directly and see if it runs?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT1: I put 2 6V lantern batteries in series (voltmeter shows 12.3V) and hooked it to the fan cable; the fan did not budge (even with encouragement in the form of a slight push from the hand). Is there a particular spot in the cable that is vulnerable to failing if pulled on? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any thoughts, suggestions, or things to look into? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT2: I have disassembled the cable bundle leading to the fan and hot-end. I have found a connection point where the fan plugs into an extension cable which goes to the control board. I have applied current here and the fan doesn't move. I tested the current on another 12V fan laying around and that fan runs just fine. So, it seems that the fan has gone bad...somehow. I am still quite confused on how this would happen. Is it possible for a DC fan to &quot;overheat&quot; due to poor airflow? I have a shroud on the fan (&lt;a href=&quot;http://d17kynu4zpq5hy.cloudfront.net/igi/printrbot/CnoDPS5D1CZ5EgBR.standard&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://d17kynu4zpq5hy.cloudfront.net/igi/printrbot/CnoDPS5D1CZ5EgBR.standard&lt;/a&gt;) and there has always been a little back pressure pushing wind out of the back of the fan.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT3: So I have resorted to tearing into the fan and have applied 12V to the wires which are soldered directly to the fan and the fan doesn't work. I then applied the current directly to the solder points and the fan runs. Is there a reason why a set of wires, which look perfectly fine from the outside, would fail to run the fan?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2613" LastEditorUserId="2613" LastEditDate="2016-09-09T02:41:50.283" LastActivityDate="2016-09-09T02:41:50.283" Title="Fan Fails to Start" Tags="|print-fan|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2711" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2710" CreationDate="2016-08-30T21:51:08.923" Score="5" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Is there a reason why a set of wires, which look perfectly fine from the outside, would fail to run the fan?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The internal conductor is broken. This can happen over time due to metal fatigue from the constant movement, and the cables getting snagged may indeed have something to do with it. You could try desoldering the current wires from the fan and replacing them with fresh ones, or getting a new fan altogether.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastActivityDate="2016-08-30T21:51:08.923" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2712" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2709" CreationDate="2016-08-31T03:59:44.077" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have only experienced PLA &quot;super sticking&quot; if the print bed is allowed to cool too much. I would suggest running a mild preheat to your bed when you find a print has stuck and the bed is cool. (What you set the temp to for the preheat would depend on the filament in question but start low and work up and you may find a sweet spot/release point for your particular PLA)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have never encountered PLA &quot;super sticking&quot; printed with rafts on (regardless of printbed temperature).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rafts will give you a sacrifical grid of PLA between your actual finished piece and the bed itself. That way you can &quot;pry&quot; the printed object from the bed and have more leaway for increased leverage without damage to your actual piece(use a plastic razor blade common in cell/tablet screen replacement kits and you generally won't scratch your printbed/printbed coating/tape). The lattice/net of the raft would also, generally, have less, in contact with the printbed surface area than a finished piece and thus have less holding power.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4000" LastActivityDate="2016-08-31T03:59:44.077" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2713" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2709" CreationDate="2016-08-31T04:20:16.590" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Options to check&lt;/strong&gt; (in order of probability of occurenece and success):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Z-calibration&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maybe you should perform calibration again. It's possible that nozzle is now too close which causes the filament is spread on the heatbed, which causes that the bottom surface is &quot;too flat&quot;. It means all separate filament tracks are spilled and they create &quot;glass flat&quot; surface. You did mention that the model sticks too much even to kapton. It suggests z-calibration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol start=&quot;2&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Temperature calibration&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check if the temperature is not too high. Reducing it a bit can reduce sticking. If filament is too soft then material sticks usually better (causes the same as in #1)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol start=&quot;3&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Heatbed cleaning&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your HB is scatched (even not visible scratches) then it's possible that previous printouts left little grains in such scratches. Cleaning HB could then help. Are you using glass? if yes - change glass side to check this option. Eventually replace glass with new one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol start=&quot;4&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Heatbed surface&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your heatbed is scratched then filament can penetrate such scratches and increase sticking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol start=&quot;5&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Filament&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Did you change filament vendor? If not then maybe your filament had changed during a time/humidity/sun/cigarete smoke. This is very doubtful option but who knows.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What methods you can use to detach model&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Paper knife&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also have the same problem when I use paper glue stick. Some vendors produce such sticky glue that I affraid to break a glass (which I use of course). When this happens I use a paper knife. Glass is scratchproof enough. &lt;strong&gt;Be careful - if your model suddenly detaches releasing knife... just be careful&lt;/strong&gt;. Unmount HB or unmount glass first of course.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol start=&quot;2&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hammer&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know people use hammer to detach sticked model. I would suggest this method only for big and relatively simple elements. Especially for solids (fully filled with the material, without any grid/honeycomb inner structure). One short hit in the same surface as the HB. Be careful of course and unmount HB or unmount glass first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol start=&quot;3&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fridge&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As HB material and filament have most likely different thermal shrinkage factor it might help. And guess what - unmount HB/glass first ;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1211" LastEditorUserId="1211" LastEditDate="2017-01-25T09:24:27.163" LastActivityDate="2017-01-25T09:24:27.163" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2715" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-31T20:05:27.940" Score="6" ViewCount="1156" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a LARGE piece of glass (36&quot;x26&quot;) that I will soon be printing on using my newly build MPCNC machine.  It is capable of printing about 34&quot;x34&quot;x10&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway, I have had GREAT success printing on heated glass that is sprayed lightly with hairspray using PLA and being able to EASILY remove my prints after the glass has cooled.  I attribute this to the slight expansion and contraction that occurs when glass is heated and cooled.  This would weaken the cohesion of the PLA print to the glass.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have another posting where I asked how to heat this LARGE glass bed.  However, there weren't any feasable (inexpensive and easy) solutions to heat the glass.  So, now with cold glass, what are some good strategies for removing large 3d printed objects without breaking them or the glass?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1647" LastActivityDate="2016-09-04T06:30:36.033" Title="What is a good strategy for removing 3d prints from an UNheated Glass bed?" Tags="|print-preparation|heated-bed|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2716" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2715" CreationDate="2016-08-31T22:43:06.183" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Because you will be printing on unheated glass, you will be using some form of adhesive material. If you use an off-the-shelf glue stick, you will likely find it is water soluble. If the bed is removable, immersing it in warm water for a relaxing soak will provide easier model removal. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't have experience with various tapes, so will avoid recommendations regarding masking tapes or similar material.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thermal cycling will also provide release. Not a heat gun, as that will break the glass, but a hair dryer applied to the underside near the model, then cooling. Repeat until it releases.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have used the Fleks3D print plate on my Flux Delta printer in the past, and it releases &quot;like magic&quot; but I don't think they make monster sheets of your printer size. I had also purchased a pair of 20&quot; square Fleks3D plates for a similarly sized printer that never materialized. I'd be happy to sell you the pair, but I think they are too small for your full plate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It has been said that one can use sand-blasted acrylic, which I believe is the construction of the aforementioned Fleks3D plates. If you have access to 1/8&quot; or 3mm acrylic and can apply a uniform blast of abrasive, you may be able to construct your own easy-release build plate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is practical to consider to use a raft for your large builds. Rafts are useful for small items, to provide a greater bonding surface and avoid release, but it also provides a &quot;wedging&quot; location for your release tool. You can more easily slice away the middle of the raft and deal with a thinner layer after the model is completely freed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT ADD: If the bed is not removable, one can build a dam around the model with clay to hold the water for dissolving the glue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastEditorUserId="854" LastEditDate="2016-09-01T09:37:48.827" LastActivityDate="2016-09-01T09:37:48.827" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2717" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-09-01T01:44:51.297" Score="7" ViewCount="1100" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am running a Stratasys Dimension 768 SST, with a &quot;rebuilt&quot; extruder (dual setup includes support + model). This extruder, basically, follows the OEM design with exception to the tubing diameter (few mils smaller for rebuilt, although there is a generous inlet taper and/or bushing, larger than the filament diameter feed stock) and the way the tubing has thermal contact with extruder body and cartridge heaters. The OEM design, apparently, had some thermal epoxy to &quot;bed&quot; the 2 nozzle tubes, which are brazed into the nozzle tip block. The approach, I am using, is Al foil packing around the SS tubes, tight to the Al extruder body (still brazed connection to the nozzle tip block). I had no choice but to recondition the extruder, because of a breached nozzle tube. In any case, with a cleared out nozzle inlet to start each time, I do get transient extrusion at standard temperatures of 250 (support) and 280 (model ABS), and in an adjusted temperature range, with some preliminary experiments. I clear out the nozzle inlet with a metal pin, down to the tube bend (I don't get why the design had this problematic 90 deg bend radius close to the cold end, feed wheel!) For the support, the extrusion goes for about 5 secs, then slows down, and the support filament feed stock stalls and strips out the filament, turning it into white debris.  For the model, the extrusion goes longer for about 20 secs, and also slows down, and, in this case, the model feed stock splits and gets fed outside the nozzle tube inlet, but no white debris in this case. This cycle may be repeated by cleaning out the inlet clogging with the stiff metal pin. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I realize this is not a perfect description of the system, but I am hoping that someone who knows this extruder configuration or a similar one (system is quite old, unfortunately), may chime in here with suggestions. I will add, that I am running the system in a so-called maintenance mode and have some minimal adjustment of the firmware (like the hot end temperatures - defaults mentioned before) for the build mode (which is only during actual part run).    &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks in advance for your help or suggestions!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are some diagrams/link to descriptions for the extruder as well:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My exact extruder (i.e., head) system:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.amtekcompany.com/pdf/dimension_bst_sst_elite_768_head_clog_guide.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.amtekcompany.com/pdf/dimension_bst_sst_elite_768_head_clog_guide.pdf&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A similar extruder (showing heaters, extruder body to isolate model &amp;amp; support paths, tips, and thermocouples)&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/url?sa=i&amp;amp;rct=j&amp;amp;q=&amp;amp;esrc=s&amp;amp;source=images&amp;amp;cd=&amp;amp;cad=rja&amp;amp;uact=8&amp;amp;ved=0ahUKEwifyLnJsu7OAhVIOCYKHaSIDLQQjRwIBw&amp;amp;url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.3dprintforums.com%2Fshowthread.php%3Ft%3D2237&amp;amp;psig=AFQjCNGM1BTAiWzUn4fNJ8-z5HDWxa6OEQ&amp;amp;ust=1472824417165187&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.google.com/url?sa=i&amp;amp;rct=j&amp;amp;q=&amp;amp;esrc=s&amp;amp;source=images&amp;amp;cd=&amp;amp;cad=rja&amp;amp;uact=8&amp;amp;ved=0ahUKEwifyLnJsu7OAhVIOCYKHaSIDLQQjRwIBw&amp;amp;url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.3dprintforums.com%2Fshowthread.php%3Ft%3D2237&amp;amp;psig=AFQjCNGM1BTAiWzUn4fNJ8-z5HDWxa6OEQ&amp;amp;ust=1472824417165187&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This site shows another user take apart/redesign the extruder in question (pay attention to the 90 deg bend in the nozzle tubes)&#xA;(see attached picture)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also have a few documents: user manual, service manual, etc. that I may share, if I knew how to upload to this website.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4063" LastEditorUserId="4063" LastEditDate="2016-09-01T14:57:09.690" LastActivityDate="2016-10-23T15:16:22.440" Title="Loss of extrusion in Stratasys FDM liquefier" Tags="|extruder|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2718" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-09-01T04:18:40.293" Score="3" ViewCount="378" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am currently building a CNC machine and have a plan to use my spare &lt;a href=&quot;http://reprap.org/wiki/MKS_BASE&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;MKS Base 1.2&lt;/a&gt; board. I have successfully activated dual X but when ever I try to activate the dual Y option, it throws a compile error.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;BTW, I want to run 5 stepper motors &lt;em&gt;without&lt;/em&gt; parallel wiring:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2 for X;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2 for Y, and;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 for Z.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2279" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2016-11-29T12:41:38.050" LastActivityDate="2016-11-29T12:41:38.050" Title="How to make E0 and E1 to act as slaves of X and Y in Marlin firmware?" Tags="|marlin|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2017-07-06T16:49:32.083" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2719" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2715" CreationDate="2016-09-01T10:21:35.513" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is quite common to print PLA on blue painters tape (such as &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B0064N00DE&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt;). This makes print removal very easy, since you can remove the tape entirely for those parts that don't pop off by themselves. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the downside, you might experience issues with the tape itself lifting from the bed when printing parts that wrap a lot. A &lt;em&gt;wide&lt;/em&gt; tape that adheres well to the glass can alleviate this issue. Also, make sure to thoroughly clean the bed before applying the tape.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That being said, if you print large parts that warp a lot, most blue painters tape that I have tried will eventually release from the glass to some degree. If you manage to strike a balance between stickiness and removability when using a glue stick/hair spray/PVA-mix etc., such solutions might be favourable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="115" LastActivityDate="2016-09-01T10:21:35.513" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2720" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1547" CreationDate="2016-09-01T15:57:23.607" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You really can't. That said the only group that has this kind of tech is .. Disney of all companies. That said their tech is good at simple shapes. Nothing more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have seen some hydro transfer techniques. However that will not let you position a graphic as it is all done with a stretch transfer material ontop of a water bed. No one has a hand steady enough. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Realistically you either need a high end full color powered base 3d printer, or simple designs that you can apply with you hand, or paint by hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Well. Rereading your question... If you just want readable text. Then use a 2+ nozzle printer and print in colors that are contract. IE white model and black text. A lot more work but an order of magnitude cheaper than other options.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.3ders.org/articles/20160503-full-color-3d-models-made-faster-and-cheaper-with-computational-thermoforming.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Disney article&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B-2oaSfy8RE&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Hydro transfer video&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XsAtW.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XsAtW.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2146" LastActivityDate="2016-09-01T15:57:23.607" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2721" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-09-02T00:14:39.580" Score="2" ViewCount="128" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm new to the 3D printing world, but I've been doing some research over the past couple weeks. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I need a printer that is decent enough to make prototypes using simple 3D software (I use Blender for 3D models, but won't mind suggestions there also). The prototypes are for cases to hold small electronic components and will be generally  around 2*4*4 inches. They will meet to be sturdy enough to hold and run screws through etc. I'm probably going to do about 1000 models before getting the right one and creating enough prototypes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm fairly good with electronics and should be able to put it together easily.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've generally heard mixed reviews about different printer sets and I don't have the budget to get one of the higher end models. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Found this little number on Amazon :&#xA;[REPRAPGURU] DIY RepRap Prusa I3 3D Printer Kit With Molded Plastic Parts USA Company &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B01E06IHJ0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01E06IHJ0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_PgmYxb6DMARET&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given the pieces of requirements, do you see this working for what I'm looking to do? AND is blender going to be the easiest way to get prototyping models onto this thing or are there easier free software?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4071" LastActivityDate="2016-09-02T00:14:39.580" Title="Will this printer be good enough to make prototyping models?" Tags="|extruder|3d-models|3d-design|printer-building|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2016-09-02T05:51:20.803" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2723" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3195" CreationDate="2016-09-02T10:30:22.413" Score="3" ViewCount="447" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can the flexible TPU filament be used in the case of printing a dental fixture?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Filament - &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sainsmart.com/sainsmart-1-75mm-1kg-2-2lb-flexible-tpu-series-filament-for-3d-printers-reprap.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;SainSmart 1.75mm 1kg/2.2lb Flexible (TPU) Series Filament for 3D Printers RepRap&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2176" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2016-12-10T22:19:08.490" LastActivityDate="2016-12-13T21:39:51.863" Title="TPU filament usage for dental application?" Tags="|3d-models|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2725" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2726" CreationDate="2016-09-03T08:24:23.257" Score="2" ViewCount="110" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there any forum where expert designers can help beginners like me?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am starting to design a panel for my car, and I am having some difficulties with finding a modeling program and using it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4073" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2018-12-12T09:18:31.577" LastActivityDate="2018-12-12T09:18:31.577" Title="3D printing forum community" Tags="|3d-design|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2018-12-12T04:06:04.183" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="2726" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2725" CreationDate="2016-09-03T08:27:46.740" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;See DesignSpark - &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rs-online.com/designspark/electronics/eng/page/mechanical&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;DS Mechanical&lt;/a&gt; is good, free and fun to use. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user225" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-12-12T06:06:07.950" LastActivityDate="2018-12-12T06:06:07.950" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="2728" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2715" CreationDate="2016-09-03T08:34:24.340" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;3M Blue decorators tape works well for me. You can get it in different widths. I find giving it a little sand paper rub before each print helps corners to stay down and improves first layer print. I replace about every 10 prints depending on the importance of the print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user225" LastActivityDate="2016-09-03T08:34:24.340" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2729" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2731" CreationDate="2016-09-03T09:40:16.417" Score="4" ViewCount="481" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am designing an part for my car. It is a panel for the rear door. I want to add it some cases for tools, but before going on, could you tell me:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is a large flat panel, around 100cm by 35cm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Is it going to be suitable for printing in that ABS material? Is it too big?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wqGB7.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wqGB7.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4073" LastEditorUserId="26" LastEditDate="2016-09-03T12:13:51.403" LastActivityDate="2016-09-03T12:25:59.947" Title="Is this very large flat panel printable in ABS?" Tags="|replacement-parts|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2730" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2729" CreationDate="2016-09-03T11:37:09.013" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is a huge part that would not fit in most 3D printers, do you have access to a 3D printer this big? Even if it does fit it will take a long time to print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Considering it's a simple flat shape, maybe laser cut / CNC acrylic or wood would be better, as you will have a stronger part, and most likely faster and cheaper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1246" LastActivityDate="2016-09-03T11:37:09.013" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2731" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2729" CreationDate="2016-09-03T12:25:59.947" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;ABS would be fine, as a material, for the application.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem, given the scale, would be the printing device used. I would suggest that you have the piece cut to spec for you using a polycarbonate. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have access to a workshop you could do so yourself if you set up proper fencing using a larger sized bandsaw(with a very fine toothed blade), had rollers to help support the size of your piece(as it would not fit on the tool's platform) and likely need a second set of hands to help control the outfeed. You would also need to drill access for the cut out then cut the perimetre.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could also consider printing(ABS) in smaller sections then fusing each section together edge to edge(solvent welding of ABS is very strong and permanent), if you were really dead set on using a typical 3D printer for this. It would, in theory, be possible, but it would be very tedious. The adhesives, and cleaner, would be available from any plumbing supply and/or (home depot, lowes, walmart et al.). If you go this route be sure to have ample ventilation and plan your work space well in advance. I would not recommend this option but it is &quot;possible&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given the scale of the piece though, and for sake of accuracy, going to a shop with CNC equipment and using polycarbonate would be your best bet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4000" LastActivityDate="2016-09-03T12:25:59.947" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2733" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-09-04T15:49:53.967" Score="2" ViewCount="291" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was wondering if anyone could give me tips for designing a 3d printable structure that can &quot;pinch&quot; down onto a hockey puck shaped piece and hold it tightly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd like for the structure to normally want to &quot;pinch&quot; two edges together, but I can pry/force them open when I shove the hockey puck into it. Once I let go, the two ends are now holding the puck fairly tightly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My first thought was something like a potato chip bag clip, but that would require a couple pieces and a spring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a way to do something like this with one solid piece?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4086" LastActivityDate="2016-09-12T15:59:17.033" Title="tips for pinching down onto an object" Tags="|3d-models|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2734" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2733" CreationDate="2016-09-04T18:26:06.063" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here are first 3 the most simplified and generalized options you have:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XmHnf.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XmHnf.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All you need now is to give use more details about your needs. If you reveal more details we could help you to apply (and modify) one of these  options.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Each of above has its own pros and cons of course. You said you don't want to have spring... so maybe a rubber ;)&#xA;But in fact whole-red is one-piece-clip in which the force comes from material elesticity or stiffness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please tell me what is the application of such clip.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1211" LastEditorUserId="1211" LastEditDate="2016-09-04T20:58:20.180" LastActivityDate="2016-09-04T20:58:20.180" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2736" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2739" CreationDate="2016-09-05T12:08:17.990" Score="5" ViewCount="5195" Body="&lt;p&gt;Good morning everyone,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am developing a consulting job in a clinic of dental CT scans.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This work involves the development of administrative software, and preparing a routine for conversion of tomographic files in DICOM format to STL format. The files in STL format will be used for both visualization and analysis of 3D models, such as printing in 3D printers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Our problem is just the conversion DICOM to STL.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has anyone come across this kind of situation? We did not find any documentation or tool for this purpose in our searches and we are really with a gande urgency in the solution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Advance grateful for any assistance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4050" LastActivityDate="2021-09-29T19:58:42.683" Title="Conversion of DICOM files to STL files" Tags="|3d-models|file-formats|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2737" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-09-05T19:13:07.703" Score="2" ViewCount="244" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am trying to print a model I designed in Blender on Shapeways.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The object has a hole in it:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iCaGP.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iCaGP.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But when I upload it to Shapeways as a STL file, fixed the sizes, but the hole is filled up in the preview window for the object in Shapeways:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6P9iO.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6P9iO.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What could cause this? Will the model print properly?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(I cannot share the model here).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4099" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2020-07-13T10:32:04.460" LastActivityDate="2020-07-13T10:32:04.460" Title="File from Blender is different in Shapeways's preview" Tags="|stl|file-formats|blender|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2738" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2736" CreationDate="2016-09-05T22:31:55.127" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;there is a nice software to do it, a brazilian one, called Invesalius (&lt;a href=&quot;http://svn.softwarepublico.gov.br/trac/invesalius&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://svn.softwarepublico.gov.br/trac/invesalius&lt;/a&gt;). Itksnap is probably a better initial choise, since it is more intuitive (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.itksnap.org/pmwiki/pmwiki.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.itksnap.org/pmwiki/pmwiki.php&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But anymways, it is not a easy job to do, and probably you will need other softwares to help you clean the mesh, like meshlab or Geomagic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4103" LastActivityDate="2016-09-05T22:31:55.127" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2739" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2736" CreationDate="2016-09-08T08:36:16.357" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The marching cubes algorithm can convert voxel data into a surface mesh. A global threshold to determine the surface in the greyvalues is used. &#xA;This &lt;a href=&quot;https://pyscience.wordpress.com/2014/09/11/surface-extraction-creating-a-mesh-from-pixel-data-using-python-and-vtk/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;article&lt;/a&gt; might be helpful. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4127" LastActivityDate="2016-09-08T08:36:16.357" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2740" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-09-08T21:39:11.350" Score="5" ViewCount="298" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've run into a strange error that keeps reoccurring my with my prints. Part way through the printing process, it appears that the printer &quot;Forgets&quot; the tool path and stops all together or starts to move in random patterns. It still extrudes material and the result is mess of wasted filament. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At first I thought this might be a levelling issue, but this does not appear to be the case. This only seems to occur on prints taking longer than maybe 2-3 hours. Does anyone have any idea whats going on and how to correct it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am running an Ultimaker 2 Extended with using Cura for slicing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4134" LastEditorUserId="4927" LastEditDate="2018-09-05T11:02:16.830" LastActivityDate="2018-09-05T11:02:16.830" Title="3D Printer seem to &quot;Forget&quot; Tool Path" Tags="|print-failure|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2741" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-09-08T22:40:06.867" Score="9" ViewCount="749" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm writing this question here hoping someone will be able to help me with the fixing process that I'm currently involved in!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Last week during a printing session my Ultimaker original unexpectedly stop working. The problem was on the extruder step motor which push the filament from the back and literally is not moving anymore! The first thing I have done was to check if the motor was burn or something similar. So I swap the extruder motor with the X-axis one and it then worked fine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then later the X-axis motor into the extruder connector and is not moving! so I decided to check the step driver and they seems to work all well. So the problem must be on the Arduino or on the motherboard! I bought new step driver a new step motor and new Arduino + motherboard, connected all up and nothing, still not working for the same reason! It is just the extruder motor that won't work anymore!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do you guys have some idea or tips to find out what the problem can be or how can be fixed in alternative ways? Your help will be much appreciated and looking forward for some answers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4135" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2019-08-31T08:23:28.373" LastActivityDate="2019-08-31T08:23:28.373" Title="Ultimaker original X-axis not moving - possible electronics problem" Tags="|electronics|stepper-driver|ultimaker-original|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="2742" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2740" CreationDate="2016-09-09T09:13:15.903" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I believe what you are experiencing is the stepper motors getting offset during  the print, usually due to the nozzle colliding into the model (but possibly also due to very high printing speeds).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically, the stepper motors used in most 3D printers will always make moves &lt;em&gt;relative to their &lt;strong&gt;current&lt;/strong&gt; position&lt;/em&gt; (as opposed to &lt;em&gt;absolute&lt;/em&gt; positioning). In other words, the stepper will for example be told to move 10 steps left, &lt;em&gt;regardless of where it is currently at&lt;/em&gt;. If you therefore forcefully move the printhead out of position during the print, the electronics will never know it happened, and continue with instructions that are no longer viable. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In order to fix this, do what you can to avoid the nozzle colliding into the model:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Make sure your printer does not leave large deposits of filament, typically due to over extrusion or too close Z-leveling of the first layer.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Make sure the model sticks to the bed, so that warped parts don't lift up, obstructing the toolpaths.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Add Z-lift in your slicer software, so that the printhead lifts slightly between travel moves.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Reduce travel speed (if it is set very high): the strength of stepper motors is lower at higher speeds, which means nozzle collisions at higher speeds most likely will offset the motors.   &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="115" LastActivityDate="2016-09-09T09:13:15.903" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2744" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2736" CreationDate="2016-09-09T23:05:29.033" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is this software that should work: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.slicer.org/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://www.slicer.org/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If that doesn't cut it, I use this site to convert images to STL: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.online-convert.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.online-convert.com/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They do have DICOM listed as a supported format, but whether it would convert correctly or not I can't say for sure. I've had varied results. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4144" LastActivityDate="2016-09-09T23:05:29.033" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2745" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-09-10T00:59:33.293" Score="6" ViewCount="351" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd like to build a plotter to work without a PC (power supply by battery).&#xA;Plotter will write only several numbers on a card (really short G-code).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do you know any firmware, which can be easily modified for this reason?&#xA;Or do you know G-code library which could be easily implemented into my stepper controller in Arduino?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My plan is to use Repetier (printing from SD), but I prefer to print without SD.&#xA;Repetier is also too big, there are a lot of functions that I don't need. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4147" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-05-05T20:55:57.963" LastActivityDate="2019-05-05T20:55:57.963" Title="G-code firmware for handheld plotter (Arduino)" Tags="|reprap|repetier|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="2747" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2736" CreationDate="2016-09-11T07:09:41.250" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, invesalius (free software) is the way to go. I was able to export a CT scan a few months back using invesalius to either OBJ or STL format for 3d printing (can't remember which). But i do remember i was then able to open it in Lulzbot's version of Cura (a free 3d printing slicing software). But there are 2 things to keep in mind.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The image i was able to export was a huge file.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The image i exported had lots of extra junk that i did not want to 3d print, so another software like meshmixer or some other mesh editing software would probably be needed. It's not an easy process, but it can be done for those willing to do it.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4157" LastActivityDate="2016-09-11T07:09:41.250" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2748" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2708" CreationDate="2016-09-11T07:17:50.207" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If resolution is your upmost concern then resin 3d printers are the way to go. They use a liquid resin that does not harden until a UV laser is shined through them. Apparently they get ultra high resolution and smooth finishes right out of the box. The downside is they are generally more expensive machines and the resin material itself is also a higher cost. but if you are in the dental field then money is not a problem. Look into resin 3d printers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;otherwise if you want to try FDM printers then try looking into .1mm brass nozzles which will increase resolution but vastly increase print time. Not sure what material would be best. ABS has toxic smelling fumes, but is the same as LEGOS and is able to be easily smoothed (if necessary) with Acetone fumes. PLA might work well at .1mm nozzle resolution though and is a starch/dextrin based non-toxic biodegradable filament.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4157" LastActivityDate="2016-09-11T07:17:50.207" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2749" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2709" CreationDate="2016-09-12T04:18:20.537" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Pour some 70% IPA along the edge of the model with a Q-tip, it will pop out right away. For larger models aaply IPA from a  wash bottle. This method also works well on other plastic to glossy surface bonds, like, for example, hot melt glue to arylic sheet, see this -&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u9kdiZMqfmM&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u9kdiZMqfmM&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3770" LastActivityDate="2016-09-12T04:18:20.537" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2750" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2751" CreationDate="2016-09-12T08:07:07.420" Score="1" ViewCount="700" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a file I want to print, but the problem is that the dimensions that came with the model are just too big to print. I used the Tape Measure Tool on SketchUp, and it came in at a whooping 5.56 meters. Is there a way to split the big model into smaller, printable sized models that can be reassembled after printing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks Again&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1722" LastActivityDate="2016-09-12T11:35:04.983" Title="How to split a model in SketchUp for printing" Tags="|3d-models|resolution|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2751" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2750" CreationDate="2016-09-12T10:20:39.107" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;SketchUp is likely to not work well for you if your objective is to create a printable STL file in pieces. You would want to determine initially that the un-segmented model is manifold and 3d printer ready. Once that is determined, consider using an alternate program for your chop-up actions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You do not specify the size of the printer you intend to use, but that is obviously a factor in the segmentation of the model.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have some experience with Meshmixer, which has an edit feature named &quot;plane cut&quot; which will do as you require. The plane is placed on the model and the options are selected to keep both pieces after the slice is performed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a huge model of the type you describe, one would hope you have access to a printer with a one meter print bed or larger, although such printers are rare and of course, expensive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My printer has a 200 x 300 mm build plate, up to 200 mm high, which would entail substantial segmenting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your model is mostly a shell, your segments would have to have wall thickness. It would be best accomplished, again in Meshmixer, by using the hollow or shell features. Those are a bit more challenging to understand, but there are plenty of videos and tutorials specific to creating hollow shells from a solid model. Once the shell is created, segments would be managed easily enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suggested that your segments would &quot;have to have&quot; wall thickness, but it isn't a requirement. Solid segments would be like bricks and you may have a large number of rectangular solids that compose your model. Lego models are difficult or impossible to create with only an outer shell, so the interiors are often solid bricks, but 3d printers are a bit more flexible. Not using solid interiors would save money, of course.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I envision a jigsaw puzzle in three dimensions. Taking a nearly six meter dimension and chopping it into 20 slices multiplied by width and height means a carton of 3d puzzle pieces. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastActivityDate="2016-09-12T10:20:39.107" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2764" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2733" CreationDate="2016-09-12T15:59:17.033" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are looking for a solid piece, the red one darth pixel showed is the best. An important consideration for something like this is making sure that it is able to flex outwards around the puck without fracturing. In order to keep the stress low in the arms, you can reduce the stiffness by either:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Increasing the length of the arm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Decreasing the thickness of the arm in the direction it deflects&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This might be helpful in designing it to be printed. If your part breaks when inserting the puck, make the arms longer or thinner. If you aren't getting enough force, the in-plane thickness (coming out of your computer screen) can be thickened to your heart's content without changing the stress.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4181" LastActivityDate="2016-09-12T15:59:17.033" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2765" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2709" CreationDate="2016-09-12T17:27:49.910" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I suggest that you make a support not that much massive (this kind of problem is often cause of a massive part printed directly on the bed). You should place some easily destructible material between your part and the bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know your part, but even if you have a plane under it, don't stick it to the bed. Let a gap, like, 5 mm minimum, which you will fill up with support. Of course, your support must be something light.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, try to use the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.reppersdelight.spacymen.com/public/RD_images/MeshMixer_support2.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;meshmixer supports&lt;/a&gt; (meshmixer is free) or some &lt;a href=&quot;https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Bf8dGI7gxR8/VX4fZrYGekI/AAAAAAAAowU/z52DD0ZOwHU/s640/IMG_5435.JPG&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;lattices supports&lt;/a&gt; if provided with your software's printer. As they're supports and not the part, you can destroy it more easily, without the preoccupation to save it, just caring about your bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, it depends on the amount your &quot;sticking&quot; problem, if small things are sticky too, this won't save you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For non-used to supports people, support is often a solution to main deformations and sticking problems. Deformations because it dissipates the heat better, sticking because it's much less massive material to remove.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4183" LastActivityDate="2016-09-12T17:27:49.910" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2766" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2708" CreationDate="2016-09-12T17:38:58.547" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;As mentionned by Andrew, resins should do the trick : most commons processes are SLA and DLP (DLP is faster but more expensive).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you aren't looking for precisions (or looking for low budget), FDM&#xA;machines should do the trick. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you need metal, I think Solidscape or micro SLM should both work.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should specify what are your exigences, it's not the same to do an ultra-high precision metal part and to have a $300 maximum-budget machine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4183" LastActivityDate="2016-09-12T17:38:58.547" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2767" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2665" CreationDate="2016-09-12T17:58:26.313" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think Autodesk Meshmixer is the best, as you can easily make parts with &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7tqy-PJq6Ds&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;boolean operations&lt;/a&gt;(if you're more of a cubic thinking guy) or &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VNpjniv8OXY&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;drag-and-sculpt&lt;/a&gt;(if you're more of a freeform guy). (And thoses videos are old but still working).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to get better reflexes in CAD engineering, I think Solidworks is the best (but &lt;strong&gt;really&lt;/strong&gt; expensive if you aren't an enterprise), if you want to get better knowledge in 3D design and animations, maybe blender is good but surely not for CAD people neither for beginners in 3D (even if it's well-documented).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4183" LastActivityDate="2016-09-12T17:58:26.313" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2769" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2665" CreationDate="2016-09-13T12:45:44.460" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would highly recommend you checkout Onshape for your design.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.onshape.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://www.onshape.com/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is the easiest to use, full featured, free 3D CAD program. It is made (and in active development) by the creators of Solidworks, the most widely used CAD program out there for good reason! And it runs in the cloud, so you don't need a high powered PC with an amazing graphics card, just a decent internet connection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Onshape looks like it's going to be the future of mechanical CAD whereas other programs like 123d and Sketchup are simply lightweight versions of &quot;real&quot; CAD.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unless you want to get highly involved in organic, complex shapes, I would avoid Blender, you will spend so much time learning it you could have whittled your barrel from a log instead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4194" LastActivityDate="2016-09-13T12:45:44.460" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2770" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="907" CreationDate="2016-09-13T20:11:39.477" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Oh yeah that is way too low for the ultimaker.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That temp is a general &quot;this is what PLA melts at&quot; so if you took plastic, heated it up to that temp it would melt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, you don't heat all the plastic at once. Your hotend it at that temp and if you let it sit it would heat up (fairly quickly). Printers like the ultimaker are fast, and well designed. They have a very small heat melt zone. So the plastic only has a fraction of time to heat up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Solution? Higher temps!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(do not do this example. Not liable if you hurt yourself) You know how you can take a lighter and almost slowly wave your finger thought it without getting burned? You know if you let it stay even a full second you would regret it. Same thing here. It is going too fast to heat up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2146" LastActivityDate="2016-09-13T20:11:39.477" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2771" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2665" CreationDate="2016-09-14T13:40:01.150" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently purchased a 3d printer and have found that freecad suited me really well &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.freecadweb.org/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.freecadweb.org/&lt;/a&gt; and its open source.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I believe its very similar to onshape in its a parametric modeller but runs locally rather that online.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using the Parts view i have made most of my models using basic shapes and  boolen subtractions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4205" LastActivityDate="2016-09-14T13:40:01.150" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2772" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-09-14T16:54:34.943" Score="6" ViewCount="3638" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have used cyanoacrylate glue aka superglue to bond PLA. I have created several electronics enclosures. (Definitely the most time-consuming part of the project.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now my question is which debonder/solvent can I use to separate the pieces again without destroying the PLA parts?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wikipedia proposes the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;nitromethane&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;dimethyl sulfoxide,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;methylene chloride,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;gamma-Butyrolactone.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4208" LastActivityDate="2018-11-29T10:36:09.990" Title="How to debond cyanoacrylate glue from pla" Tags="|pla|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2773" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="927" CreationDate="2016-09-14T19:01:34.937" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some general comments about the process used (plastic extrusion):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The plastic extrusion process is not simple- many textbooks dense with equations have been written about it. The lowest cost industrial extrusion processes do not use pellets at all- because pellets have already gone through an extrusion process so they are more expensive than powder resin. There is typically a 'compounding' stage where colors etc. are added before extrusion. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Significant heat is generated by the screw (which often has a complex geometry) via shear action that is itself temperature and pressure sensitive, and the heat is added to by external heaters in various zones (or subtracted by water cooling and chillers in larger extruders). In some cases we were able to operate an extruder adiabatically- the heat created by the screw motor matched the heat loss as the product left the die and no heating or cooling was needed once the process was stabilized. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The end result is that you want to plasticize (melt) the plastic and achieve a certain pressure at the die. The plastic is deteriorating the higher the temperature and the longer the time so you want to limit the residence time at high temperature. There is some trial-and-error and a lot of previous experience in the setup person's task. Once the parameters are determined they are recorded and are used the next time that material is run.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The size of an extrusion is typically determined exactly by downstream equipment rather than controlling the conditions at the die. It is essentially stretched as it comes out of the die and the heat is removed in a cooling trough. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here you can see a factory environment with a very typical extrusion setup, used in this case for 3D printing filament (but the setup would look almost the same if they were making slats for Venetian blinds). Notice that there are cooling fans as well as band heaters on the extruder barrel. They control the diameter by adjusting the take-off capstan RPM once the extruder is running well. This extruder looks like it has 4 heat/cool barrel zones and two (heat-only) nozzle zones (6 temperatures total). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=40HOAsUnSQ8&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=40HOAsUnSQ8&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Extruders are categorized by the barrel bore diameter in inches or mm. A very small extruder might be 25mm. An extruder used for pipe production might be 6&quot; (150mm) or more. Some machines use multiple screws. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3992" LastEditorUserId="3992" LastEditDate="2016-09-28T05:17:49.593" LastActivityDate="2016-09-28T05:17:49.593" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2774" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2787" CreationDate="2016-09-14T22:37:01.057" Score="5" ViewCount="2331" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to print people's bodies scanned (or get 'minimes', see the &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uTgbX.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Figure 1&lt;/a&gt;). And I watched that the printer 'project 660' is &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1MTOgCXJegw&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;very good to do this&lt;/a&gt; (&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uTgbX.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Figure 1&lt;/a&gt;). But, the price of that printer is really expensive, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.3dhubs.com/3d-printers/projet-660&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;roughly $60'000&lt;/a&gt;. And If you want to get a 'minime' printed by that printer, the cost is $230 for a model of 10cm. For me that price is expensive too. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know what printer I could use in order to print 'minimes' with:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Good resolution, or details of the person's face (for a model of 10cm) and a good smooth surface of the model printed (&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uTgbX.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Figure 1&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ability to print complex models such as bodies (&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uTgbX.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Figure 1&lt;/a&gt;) without problem.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Inexpensive: less than $150 per 'minime'.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;An option to print in color.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Figure 1: Models printed&lt;/em&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uTgbX.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uTgbX.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Mimes printed:&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4211" LastEditorUserId="115" LastEditDate="2016-09-17T07:41:01.467" LastActivityDate="2024-03-18T03:17:44.807" Title="Which is the best 3D printer to print bodies scanned?" Tags="|3d-models|print-quality|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2775" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-09-14T23:49:04.953" Score="2" ViewCount="218" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking for a strong filament that can handle a large tension load and no bending deformation when a perpendicular force is applied to it. Any suggestions?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4212" LastActivityDate="2016-09-17T17:07:36.827" Title="What is the strongest filament to use?" Tags="|filament|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2016-09-20T06:53:42.353" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2776" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2777" CreationDate="2016-09-15T11:24:29.093" Score="7" ViewCount="417" Body="&lt;p&gt;My &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B007KG0ZYI&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;12V DC 30A Power Supply 360W Power Supply&lt;/a&gt; is really cheap, and it's worked well for setting up the motors; but now that I'm on to the heated bed, which uses considerably more Ampage than that of just the motors, I'll confess, I'm getting frightened to continue using it;  if the summer was a bit longer, maybe it wouldn't bother me, but we're getting into the cold months, and now I'm afraid of ending up using too much ampage just trying to heat the bed in the winter months...(and I don't mean my bed).  Is there anything I should look out for in terms of using the either the cheap power supply I already have, or are there certain specs on a new not-so-cheap power supply that I ought to be using instead?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastActivityDate="2016-09-18T15:09:13.843" Title="Frightened of Cheap Chinese Power Supply as I hook up the heated bed" Tags="|prusa-i3-rework|switching-power-supply|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2777" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2776" CreationDate="2016-09-15T13:18:05.077" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;A MK2 heatbed will draw around 12A. The motors and hotend draw only very little power (around 2A, 5A peak), so the 30A supply you have has significant headroom (it is often recommended to derate a power supply by 20%, so a 30A supply would be good for 24A - you're still well under that). It should work fine, even given its dubious provenance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Winter versus summer should not make a big difference. The largest power draw is during the heat up phase. In winter, the bed will use slightly more power to stay warm, but regardless of whether it is summer or winter the peak power draw during heat up will be the same.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The cheapness of these supplies tends to be reflected in more output ripple (but for heating the bed and running the motors you don't need a very stable voltage) and improper filtering. This may inject noise back into the mains, possibly affecting other equipment nearby. Should this occur, you can just stop using the power supply. However, in my experience, they can deliver the rated power just fine. They're not completely horrible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your biggest concern should be whether the wires that lead to your heated bed can handle the current and whether the screw terminals are properly tightened. During the first use, you should check that the power supply does not get extremely hot. If it's so hot it's impossible to touch for more than 1-2 seconds you should not use it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastEditorUserId="26" LastEditDate="2016-09-16T06:07:42.060" LastActivityDate="2016-09-16T06:07:42.060" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2778" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2779" CreationDate="2016-09-15T15:15:39.493" Score="3" ViewCount="1110" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm building a 3D printer from scratch (My first one, so yeah, tall order), so I'm buying all the parts separately, now one of the things I bought was a &lt;strong&gt;300x300 12v 25A Silicon heaterbed&lt;/strong&gt; (Yeah, I know, should have gone for a higher voltage, but that's the only one I could get at the time)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a &lt;strong&gt;RAMPS 1.4&lt;/strong&gt; board in all it's crappy MOSFET glory, so I tried giving my math skills a shot in trying to find a decent MOSFET that won't explode, though I'm still having issues deciding. And due to where I live, getting anything very specific is not the easiest thing to do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;So can anyone recommend a MOSFET that I can use to switch 25A&lt;/strong&gt; and mention if it will need a heatsink?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I live in &lt;strong&gt;South Africa&lt;/strong&gt;, So one place that I can get them from is from &lt;a href=&quot;http://shop.rabtron.co.za/catalog/mosfet-transistors-c-35_88_265.html?sort=5d&amp;amp;page=1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;RABTRON Electronincs&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a couple other places, but I'd prefer to get them here if I can.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4225" LastActivityDate="2016-09-15T18:18:44.073" Title="12v 25A 300x300 Heater bed Mosfet" Tags="|heated-bed|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2779" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2778" CreationDate="2016-09-15T17:12:52.423" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have looked over the 20 or so most expensive MOSFETs in that shop, and none are suitable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It might be easier to go with a DC Solid State Relay rather than a bare MOSFET.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do want to go with a bare MOSFET instead, a TO-220 package MOSFET can dissipate around 1W without a heatsink, and around 3-4W with one. For 25A of current, that means the resistance of the MOSFET can be at most 1.6mΩ (without heatsink) or 5.6mΩ (with heatsink).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.infineon.com/dgdl/irlb3034pbf.pdf?fileId=5546d462533600a40153566027b22585&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;IRLB3034&lt;/a&gt; might be suitable. It is readily available on ebay (for under $1 shipped). 195A, 40V and an Rds(on) of only 1.4mΩ. A caveat is that this resistance is specified at a gate voltage of 10V, whereas it is slightly higher at lower gate voltages (1.6mΩ-2.0mΩ at 4.5V). This is on the upper edge of what is acceptable without a heatsink, but should still work (junction to ambient resistance is 62C/W, so in the worst case of 2.0mΩ the temperature would get to 77C above ambient - the MOSFET is rated for operation up to 175C). With a heatsink it will definitely work well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that the gate charge is much higher (10x) than that of the MOSFET used on RAMPs so you should use a low switching frequency.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastEditorUserId="26" LastEditDate="2016-09-15T18:18:44.073" LastActivityDate="2016-09-15T18:18:44.073" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2784" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2775" CreationDate="2016-09-16T20:15:33.647" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;As far as I know, Nylon filaments are among the strongest. I'd look at the technical specs of &lt;a href=&quot;http://taulman3d.com/index.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Taulman3D's Filament&lt;/a&gt;. They're the only nylon I've ever tried, and I know they have in-depth specs of how their filament holds up. I'm sure you can find other providers, though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4241" LastActivityDate="2016-09-16T20:15:33.647" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2785" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2737" CreationDate="2016-09-16T20:18:03.487" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Double-check that your model is solid (i.e. watertight). Holes in the mesh, or (as other's mentioned in the comments) or problems with thickness can cause those issues. You can use &lt;a href=&quot;https://netfabb.azurewebsites.net/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Netfabb's Cloud Services&lt;/a&gt;, or download the free version of their app. There are other model repair services, too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4241" LastActivityDate="2016-09-16T20:18:03.487" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2787" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2774" CreationDate="2016-09-17T09:08:27.717" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I do not think there exists a printer that meets your requirements. &quot;Cheap&quot;/hobbyist printers roughly fall into two categories:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;FDM: does not meet your requirement for sufficient detail and smooth surfaces in the face (and can not print in color).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;SLA: meets your requirement for detail in the face but can not print in color. If you are willing to drop the color requirement, this would be a good choice.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are some hobbyist projects to do full color printing, but they are in a rather early stage. One option is &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.spitstec.nl/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;colorpod&lt;/a&gt; that can be used to convert an FDM printer (such as the Ultimaker, but the principle works with any printer) however it is in a rather early stage of development and not very reliable yet. Another option is &lt;a href=&quot;http://ytec3d.com/plan-b/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Plan B&lt;/a&gt; but that is a DIY project and not available for purchase (and is not very mature either).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That leaves you with the commercial color options. You've already ruled out the 3D systems/projet machines. Another (slightly cheaper) commercial option is &lt;a href=&quot;http://mcortechnologies.com/3d-printers/iris/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;MCOR IRIS&lt;/a&gt; but it also runs in the tens of thousands. While researching this question I stumbled upon &lt;a href=&quot;http://3dpandoras.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;3D Pandoras&lt;/a&gt; but it seems a relatively new company so it may turn out to be a literal Pandora's box (they mention &quot;most affordable filaments&quot; as one of the advantages of their printer even though it doesn't use filament at all) - and prices are not listed on their website.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastActivityDate="2016-09-17T09:08:27.717" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2788" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2775" CreationDate="2016-09-17T17:07:36.827" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Carbon or glass fiber reinforced PLA likely has the strongest without deformation. PLA will snap before deforming.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fiber reinforced ABS is also an option. ABS is stronger but will bend before breaking. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both are hard on nozzles and may require a stainless steel nozzle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="776" LastActivityDate="2016-09-17T17:07:36.827" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2789" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3138" CreationDate="2016-09-17T19:17:52.940" Score="8" ViewCount="1603" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an M3D Micro 3D printer that printed fine for a couple of weeks and then was plagued with issues afterward. I've done the fixes from the forum to get proper heating and cooling of the nozzle (I've added aluminum foil around the nozzle to make sure the hotend is fit snug against the nozzle and I've added an external fan, powered externally, to compensate for heat creep).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This works very well for short prints and it usually finishes successfully. When I do a longer print it always stops midway and usually at the same exact point. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried printing at 200&amp;nbsp;°C with black PLA and then again at 215&amp;nbsp;°C with the same filament and it stops at the same exact point. I also tried M3D brand white filament. I am using CURA slicer with Octoprint GCODE sender and M3D Fio.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know it is not clogged because if I stop the print and press extrude without letting it cool down, it extrudes fine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is causing my printer to stop printing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4251" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-12-26T19:41:27.363" LastActivityDate="2018-12-26T19:41:27.363" Title="M3D Micro printer stops extruding but is not clogged" Tags="|pla|ultimaker-cura|octoprint|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="2790" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2792" CreationDate="2016-09-17T22:01:21.547" Score="6" ViewCount="420" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've built the mechanics of my 3D printer myself, because I need to print parts that are really huge, (and for budget reasons). &lt;strong&gt;So, I already have the 3D movement functionality.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But what I need now, is the printing mechanism itself. I've been reading a lot, but it became clear to me that things are more complicated than I thought. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's skip mechanics and software, I'm just interested in how the print head works. Can somebody explain me that?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To be honest, I was so naive that I thought that I just had to buy one part with one data wire (print/noprint) and the 5&amp;nbsp;V/GND wires. But it came to my intension that things are way more complicated. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, these RepRap printers have some kind of air tube attached to the print head. I'm not sure what that's all about, is it cooling?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Perhaps I'm always reading the wrong manuals (i.e. the more advanced ones). Can somebody enlighten me or point me to a good starting point?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4253" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-11-13T02:13:18.563" LastActivityDate="2018-11-13T02:13:18.563" Title="What parts are strictly necessary for a 3D printer?" Tags="|printer-building|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="2791" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2790" CreationDate="2016-09-17T23:29:34.687" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The first point to start would be the RepRap wiki entry for &lt;a href=&quot;http://reprap.org/wiki/Category:Extruders&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;extruders&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;cold end&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &amp;quot;Cold End&amp;quot; is usually the bulk of the extruder. It is&#xA;often the actual carriage on one axis and supports the rest of the&#xA;parts. In some designs, the &amp;quot;Cold End&amp;quot; is split into two parts; one&#xA;part does the driving of the filament that is stationary and connected&#xA;to the carriage portion, of a lighter weight design for easier&#xA;movement, with a flexible tube. The drive is a motor that rotates a&#xA;knurled, hobbed, or toothed pinch wheel against a pressure plate or&#xA;bearing with the filament forced between them. Usually, the motor is&#xA;geared to the pinch wheel to increase available torque and extrusion&#xA;control (smoothness). The gearing can be a 3D printed pinion and gear,&#xA;stock worm wheel and gear, or a more expensive integral motor gearbox.&#xA;Stepper motors are used almost universally after initial trials with&#xA;DC motors did not achieve the required repeatability. Servo motors are&#xA;an option, though they are not seen in the literature yet. The final&#xA;function, some form of cooling, keeps the &amp;quot;Cold End&amp;quot; cold. With the&#xA;close proximity to the &amp;quot;Hot End&amp;quot; and possible heated build platforms&#xA;and enclosures, it is sometimes necessary to have additional passive&#xA;or active cooling of the cold end parts. Heat sinks and fans are often&#xA;used; water and Peltier effect cooling is also discussed. Much of this&#xA;bulk is usually made from 3D printed parts and the temperature is&#xA;maintained within safe limits.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;hot end attachment&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &amp;quot;Cold End&amp;quot; is&#xA;connected to the &amp;quot;Hot End&amp;quot; across a thermal break or insulator (the&#xA;Bowden tube if used is on the cold side of this thermal break). This&#xA;has to be rigid and accurate enough to reliably pass the filament from&#xA;one side to the other, but still prevent much of the heat transfer.&#xA;The materials of choice are usually PEEK plastic with PTFE liners or&#xA;PTFE with stainless steel mechanical supports or a combination of all&#xA;three. A Hot End is frequently joined to the Cold End using a Groove&#xA;Mount where the thermal break or insulator is part of the Hot End&#xA;assembly and the Cold End body is provisioned with a cylindrical&#xA;recess. Many cold ends push the filament out a large hole centered&#xA;between 2 small holes about 50 mm apart. (Is there a name for this&#xA;de-facto standard?) Some people rigidly attach a groove mount hot end&#xA;to such a cold end with the mounting plate adapter and two short&#xA;bolts. A few people put 2 long bolts through those holes and then put&#xA;a spring around those bolts to make a spring extruder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;hot end&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The&#xA;&amp;quot;Hot End&amp;quot; is the active part of the 3D printer that melts the&#xA;filament. It allows the molten plastic to exit from the small nozzle&#xA;to form a thin and tacky bead of plastic that will adhere to the&#xA;material it is laid on. The first RepRap hot end was made of brass.&#xA;Researchers have also made hot ends from glass or aluminium. The hot&#xA;end consists of a melting zone or chamber with two holes. The cold end&#xA;forces the filament into the hot end -- into the heating chamber of&#xA;the hot end -- through one hole. The molten plastic exits the heating&#xA;chamber through the other hole at the tip. The hole in the tip&#xA;(nozzle) has a diameter of between 0.3mm and 1.0mm with typical size&#xA;of 0.5mm with present generation extruders. Outside the tip of the&#xA;barrel is a heating means, either a wire element or a standard wire&#xA;wound resistor. The heat required is of the order of 20W with typical&#xA;temperatures around 150 to 250 degrees Centigrade. For feedback&#xA;control of the nozzle temperature, a thermistor is usually attached&#xA;close to the nozzle, though a thermocouple may serve with suitable&#xA;control hardware. High temperature materials are needed here. These&#xA;include metals, cements and glues, glass and mineral fibre materials,&#xA;PEEK, PTFE and Kapton tape.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;mount to rest of machine&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The ways&#xA;extruders are mounted on the rest of the machine have evolved over&#xA;time into informal mounting standards. These informal standards&#xA;include the Vertical X Axis Standard, the Quick-fit extruder mount,&#xA;the OpenX mount, etc. Such de-facto standards allows new extruder&#xA;designs to be tested on existing printer frames, and new printer frame&#xA;designs to use existing extruders. (Does the &amp;quot;greg-adapter.scad&amp;quot;&#xA;adapter in the Prusa i3 Build Manual let me mount an OpenX extruder on&#xA;a Vertical X Axis machine?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also google for extruder and/or hotend in combination with 3d printing for a first starting point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="168" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:29:41.667" LastActivityDate="2018-11-10T02:29:07.000" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="2792" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2790" CreationDate="2016-09-17T23:34:18.957" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;You will certainly find that the print functionality of a 3d printer is a bit more complex than you suggest. The mechanical portions include a means to push the filament into a heated nozzle as well as the software portion to regulate the speed of the filament movement. You haven't referenced the heater cartridge and temperature sensor, but you will discover that aspect soon enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &quot;air tube&quot; you think you've seen is likely called a bowden tube. Such designs permit lighter weight print heads, which is beneficial for speed, acceleration and precision, but has complications with respect to compression of the filament as well as retraction considerations. Non-bowden print heads will have the extruder motor as part of the moving assembly, with the drive wheels very close to the nozzle opening. This allows for flexible filament and more precise control of the filament feed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Either design has compromises, so one must determine priorities for the design.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cooling is also a factor. The heater cartridge is designed to heat the nozzle to a specific temperature for the type of filament used, but also requires a means to keep the heat from traveling to the portion of filament not in the nozzle. You'll discover terms such as heat break, referring to narrow threaded portion connecting the nozzle assembly to the heat sink. There will also be a cooling fan to blow air over the heat sink and very often a cooling fan to cool the filament as it exits the nozzle and attaches to the model being printed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You suggest to ignore the mechanics and software, but it's important to be aware of both when considering the principles of the print head assembly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Simplified, filament enters bowden tube then into heat sink, pushed by extruder motor (or) filament is pushed into heat sink by extruder motor. Filament travels through heat break, gets melted in heater block and exits nozzle. Sheesh, that's way too simple.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastActivityDate="2016-09-17T23:34:18.957" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2793" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2737" CreationDate="2016-09-18T13:30:20.780" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just like the other already have mentioned, most likely your model has 3D printing errors. Either way, I would run it through a repairing service just to make sure it's free of 3D printing errors. I repair my models using this free automatic tool &lt;a href=&quot;https://makeprintable.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://makeprintable.com/&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4257" LastActivityDate="2016-09-18T13:30:20.780" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2794" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2776" CreationDate="2016-09-18T15:09:13.843" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've used a similar cheap psu before. It'll work without blowing up but my heatbed struggled to get up to 60c, swapped psus with one I had lying around from a desktop and there was a huge difference. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4258" LastActivityDate="2016-09-18T15:09:13.843" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2795" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2665" CreationDate="2016-09-18T16:08:36.123" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm no expert, but have done some research on this question and it seems to me that &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.autodesk.com/products/fusion-360/overview&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Fusion 360&lt;/a&gt; is currently your best bet. It's designed to do exactly what you're planning, from start to finish. &lt;strong&gt;Design&lt;/strong&gt; (Sculpting and precision modeling), &#xA;&lt;strong&gt;Test&lt;/strong&gt; (fitting/animation analysis), and &lt;strong&gt;Fabricate&lt;/strong&gt; (CAM and 3D printing) all wrapped into one program that has a logical workflow, and is WAY easier to learn than Blender. It's free for hobbyists and startups making less than $100K/yr. There are a bunch of free tutorials online, professionally produced by Autodesk. By the time you get through those, you should be able to complete your project.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Edit): I don't know anything about onshape.com. Like I said, I'm no expert.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4260" LastEditorUserId="4260" LastEditDate="2016-09-18T17:34:54.547" LastActivityDate="2016-09-18T17:34:54.547" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2796" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2789" CreationDate="2016-09-18T18:39:01.657" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Placing this suggestion as an answer, because all information appears to point to the slicer software and/or the operating system. Consider to use alternative methods of slicing and sending the model, such as the previously mentioned &lt;a href=&quot;https://craftunique.com/craftware&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Craftware&lt;/a&gt; or other free slicers, such as &lt;a href=&quot;http://slic3r.org/download&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Slic3r&lt;/a&gt; - both of which have Linux versions. If, as you suggest, your firmware is so tied down that it won't run alternate versions without re-flashing, that would be your next step. Unfetter yourself from the limitations of the current suspect software.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are able to use other slicers and discover that the problem remains, the re-flashing of the firmware is likely the only solution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-12-26T19:39:51.217" LastActivityDate="2018-12-26T19:39:51.217" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="2797" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2798" CreationDate="2016-09-18T23:08:15.470" Score="6" ViewCount="2391" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am making a part that needs to come apart, so I don't want to use glue or similar adhesives. I saw an article about printing snap-fit pieces, but it seems like you would need a lot of expertise to make it work well. Does anybody know of an easy way to non-permanently attach PLA parts, while still maintaining a sturdy connection?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: (more detail about specific project)&#xA;I need to attach plastic to plastic, in a pretty small surface area. This is a prop knife/sword in which the &quot;blade&quot; retracts into the handle. &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/juWZF.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/juWZF.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt; For the prototype I printed the handle in two halves lengthwise, which I do not want to do for the final product. I want to print as much of the handle in one piece as possible. Because I need to get the blade into the handle (and remove it for working on parts, painting, etc) I need part of the handle to detach. I am thinking that the front bit (examined more closely below) would be the best place to detach. &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CeGz6.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CeGz6.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt; As the wall thickness is about 1/4 in, there is not a whole lot of room to work with. However, I remain hopeful that there is a way to attach it such that it will remain securely together and retain the &quot;blade&quot; properly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for the help so far.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4263" LastEditorUserId="4263" LastEditDate="2016-09-19T02:38:56.377" LastActivityDate="2016-09-19T02:38:56.377" Title="How to create attachable/detachable printed parts" Tags="|pla|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2798" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2797" CreationDate="2016-09-18T23:38:18.017" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This question may yet fall into the too-broad category, but I'll give it a shot. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You don't want to use glue or adhesives, but does that exclude bolted or screwed fasteners? Threaded inserts are metal &quot;nuts&quot; with knurled grip extrusions that enable one to use a matching bolt. The insert is heated with a soldering iron or similar source and embedded into the part. It's especially useful when the part thickness provides sufficient strength and the threaded insert is on the surface of the part opposite the bolt head.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another option you have is to design into the part a &quot;conventional&quot; joint such as a dovetail or slot with the matching dovetail or T shape on the adjoining part. This requires access to the end of the part to enable the sliding action of joining them together, of course. Some testing of prints should be performed to ensure proper mating.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Directly related to that method is pins and holes. With suitable testing, one would create a hole on both parts and print a pin to match. If one is well versed in the software of choice, one hole with a built-in pin on the adjoining part would work too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yet another extension is provided free from 3DKitbash:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.3dkitbash.com/free3dmodels/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.3dkitbash.com/free3dmodels/&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;in the form of friction fit pins. I've constructed one of their models using this design and find the straight-line pins eventually work free. The pin model with &quot;mouse ears&quot; allows for a bit stronger gripping due to the compression of the shape on insertion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The friction fit pins would be considered to be the snap-fit parts you want to avoid, but the level of expertise should not be beyond that of a model designer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Trial and error works wonders when it comes to putting these things together. I printed an Overwatch logo for a fellow makerspace member. The part used a pin on the insert and a hole on the logo. I was astonished when the two different colored parts slid together quite snugly. I have not calibrated my printer and it was indeed a snap together build. On the flip side, when I pried the two pieces apart (low infill) the pin remained in the hole, snapping cleanly off the insert. Should I be asked to do this again, I would have much more infill on the pins.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For clarification, consider also to note what software you are using for your design. Some programs lend well to creating connections, others not so much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastActivityDate="2016-09-18T23:38:18.017" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2800" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2665" CreationDate="2016-09-19T12:29:07.690" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can check out &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.tinkercad.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Tinkercad&lt;/a&gt;. It is an easy to use, online editor. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even though it is not as powerful as Blender or Rhino3d, for easy 3d models it is more than sufficient.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4271" LastActivityDate="2016-09-19T12:29:07.690" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2803" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3" CreationDate="2016-09-19T15:41:06.537" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In short: no.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Smaller layers will make your prints look nicer. That said, in my experience, most printers can handle roughly the same layer heights, no matter what the manufacturer says it can do. With a little tinkering, you can get any printer to do what you tell it to do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, for larger prints, you really won't want to lower the layer height too much. Typically, the quality difference you see in a print that's, say, .2 mm layer height (typical) vs .1mm layer height (typically high quality) is not that much different.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that lowering your layer height increases the number of layers in your object, so it'll take longer to print and have more opportunities to fail along the way. For anything of significant size (150 mm + or so) it's really not worth the extra risk, I'd say.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4241" LastActivityDate="2016-09-19T15:41:06.537" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2805" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2806" CreationDate="2016-09-20T15:49:55.283" Score="10" ViewCount="1255" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently finished building my first printer. The only problem that I'm having is that the hotend is not getting hot enough to start printing with PLA (180 to 230 degrees celsius), the hotend getting hotter stops at 170 degrees. Please help I've been stuck on this problem for days. Thanks in advance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4286" LastActivityDate="2019-03-29T11:25:58.027" Title="Prusa i3 hotend not getting to the temperature that I want (180 to 230 celsius)" Tags="|pla|prusa-i3|hotend|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2806" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2805" CreationDate="2016-09-20T16:46:12.993" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Usually, this kind of problem is due to an issue with the control loop of the temperature. You can try to do &lt;a href=&quot;http://reprap.org/wiki/PID_Tuning&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;PID Tuning&lt;/a&gt; by running the command &lt;code&gt;M303 E0 S200 C8&lt;/code&gt;. This will heat up the hot end and cycle it around 200C a few times, and afterwards tell you Kp, Ki and Kd values which you need to enter into the PID settings of your firmware configuration, or store them in EEPROM using &lt;code&gt;M301&lt;/code&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this does not solve the problem, then disconnect the heater cartridge and check its resistance with a multimeter. For a 12V system, it should not be higher than 6Ω (24Ω for a 24V system).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the heater cartridge is okay, then perhaps it is a problem with the power supply. While the hotend is heating up, measure the voltage across the heater cartridge. It should not be much less than the nominal 12V/24V your printer runs at. If it is, you may have a bad MOSFET or power supply.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, if you have a very powerful fan blowing on the hotend this can cause issues with heating up as well. Adding a fan shroud (or pointing the fan away from the nozzle and only at the print) can help with this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastActivityDate="2016-09-20T16:46:12.993" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2807" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2813" CreationDate="2016-09-20T20:02:48.670" Score="6" ViewCount="597" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm planning to print a certain sample holder which is going to be placed on a CD-Rom BLDC motor and spun at about 1000-1500 RPM. The holder would essentially be a 2-3 mm thick 100 mm square platform with 1-2 mm thick hooks rising up from outer edges of the platform to hold the sample. The bottom of this platform would also contain a 15 mm diameter crevice designed to latch onto the disc holder attached to the motor. How durable would this printed holder be under these conditions, if it was made of ABS plastic, for example?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4287" LastEditorUserId="4287" LastEditDate="2016-09-21T15:24:15.897" LastActivityDate="2016-10-11T11:03:03.687" Title="Typical plastic strength at 1500 RPM" Tags="|abs|print-strength|stability|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2809" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3147" CreationDate="2016-09-21T13:02:56.493" Score="7" ViewCount="16100" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have built a RepRap Prusa i2 a while back. It worked for a while, but then I moved the printer from place to place and after a while I noticed that the printer's bed is not heating anymore. The thermistor shows the temperature (room temperature), but the bed is not heating. &#xA;The wires are connected and the heated bed has a resistance. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Did anyone else confronted with this? Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4294" LastActivityDate="2018-12-21T15:03:18.020" Title="Heated bed is not heating anymore" Tags="|heated-bed|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2810" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2811" CreationDate="2016-09-21T14:59:53.437" Score="7" ViewCount="5534" Body="&lt;p&gt;So, I'm having this problem where almost anything I print with a section(s) that is not directly connected to something below it breaks when I try to pull the small filaments meant to hold it up during printing off. For example, I 3D-printed a Rayquaza(&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.myminifactory.com/object/rayquaza-23624&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;this one&lt;/a&gt;) from Pokemon for my little brother, and as I was carefully pulling the filament from under the mouth, the whole head just snapped off. Does someone have a recommendation as to a way to get the small filament off without breaking the object? Would a solution just be to print it bigger and see if it holds up better, or is there something else I can do? Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4298" LastEditorUserId="4298" LastEditDate="2016-09-22T01:22:51.720" LastActivityDate="2016-09-26T10:20:55.007" Title="How to stop objects with &quot;floating&quot; parts from breaking" Tags="|filament|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2811" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2810" CreationDate="2016-09-21T19:29:27.373" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The small filaments you remove that hold the parts up are called supports. The one model I located on Thingiverse clearly requires a number of supports, as the model is not easily designed for 3d printing with FDM printers. It would be better printed with SLS, but that's not the focus of your question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You don't specify how large you printed the model, but certainly a scaled-up version will be stronger at the weak points. You will want to use sharp non-shearing cutters to clear away as much of the supports as possible, without torquing on the model.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another option which also reduces the forces on the model body is to use a soldering iron to smooth and clear/cut the supports. If you are able to use cutters and not damage the model, the soldering iron can remove and flatten the remnants of those supports.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please note that if your careful work has resulted in a model that snaps to pieces, your little brother will soon destroy the successfully cleaned up model just as easily.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have skill with 3d modeling software (Meshmixer and Blender come to mind for such organic models), you can add insignificant items to the model to provide functional support. Would the Rayquaza look fiercer if you 3d printed a cage as an integrated part of the model, using the bars of the cage to provide support?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I successfully printed a model that was created by an artist unfamiliar with 3d printing restrictions. The support material was wash-away PVA. I provided the model to the &quot;owner&quot; who washed away the support material and snapped the legs in two. It's sometimes impossible to solve poor designs. You have a good chance if you build a cage for this one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastActivityDate="2016-09-21T19:29:27.373" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2812" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2810" CreationDate="2016-09-21T20:45:44.450" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Depends how small your printing, if it's the one i see on thingiverse then it don't see why it would break unless:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;it's super small&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;too many or strong support that's hard to pull off?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Not calibrated for the filament - eg temperature too low or too much fan and the layer's aren't properly bonding.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Too much moisture in the filament making it weak&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Needs more infill at the weak spots?  (ex. if the neck is thin then infill other than 50-100 is a good idea if you can control that in your slicer).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;i would start with the temps/adjusting settings.  really hard to say without a reference photo. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, i would try a stronger material for toys such as PETG either way.  from experience they'll just break easily anyway from the abuse kids put them through.  PETG has good layer bonding and easy to print, except it's terrible at bridging.  Supports will most likely need to be cliped off with side cutters but it's not a huge deal.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4305" LastActivityDate="2016-09-21T20:45:44.450" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2813" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2807" CreationDate="2016-09-23T06:17:30.497" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Really the only thing that would matter for this project is the amount of torque the motor has available and subsequently how heavy your setup is that is connected to the motor. A part that size may just be too heavy for a CD-ROM motor if you intend on adding more parts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, to answer your question, ABS should be able to endure the stress. I recommend paying attention to how the hooks are printed. You'll want to make sure that the hooks are printed in profile, meaning that the profile of the hooks should be printed with each layer. This will help provide structural integrity to, what sounds like, the most stressful area of the part (the outer edges of a spinning device and a clamping feature).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Something to keep in mind for projects like this is that most of the time the design will likely be the cause of failure, not the capabilities of the material.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="98" LastEditorUserId="4329" LastEditDate="2016-09-24T20:46:54.577" LastActivityDate="2016-09-24T20:46:54.577" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2814" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2772" CreationDate="2016-09-23T11:20:54.227" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Acetone&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Acetone will dissolve cynoacrylate (superglue) and should weaken it enough to be able to separate the parts.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;A readily available cheap source of acetone is nail varnish remover (just make sure you don't buy the acetone free version!).&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Give the pieces a soak in nail varnish remover for 10-20 minutes and they should come apart with some prying.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Acetone does not dissolve PLA, so the PLA parts should be undamaged. If you were to try this on ABS parts however, they would begin to dissolve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4325" LastActivityDate="2016-09-23T11:20:54.227" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2815" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-09-24T04:57:54.660" Score="10" ViewCount="865" Body="&lt;p&gt;On their website they say the following&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;0.25 mm nozzle: 150 to 60 micron&#xA;0.40 mm nozzle: 200 to 20 micron&#xA;0.60 mm nozzle: 400 to 20 micron&#xA;0.80 mm nozzle: 600 to 20 micron&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That confuses me. Why can I go down to 20 micron with the 0.40, 0.60 and 0.80 nozzle but only down to 60 micron with the much smaller 0.25 nozzle? Is that a typo and should say 6 micron?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4330" LastEditorUserId="115" LastEditDate="2016-09-24T20:46:35.583" LastActivityDate="2016-09-27T07:29:01.410" Title="Ultimaker Layer Resolution vs Nozzle Size" Tags="|nozzle|resolution|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2816" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2815" CreationDate="2016-09-24T09:32:30.207" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;You need a certain minimum flow rate to achieve consistent extrusion. Flow rate is the product of print speed, extrusion width (proportional to nozzle size) and print speed. If you use a very small nozzle and very low layer height, you'd need a very high printing speed to achieve a reasonable flow rate. Therefore, it's quite possible this is not a mistake and intentional.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keep in mind that Ultimaker uses 2.85mm filament. With a 0.3mm extrusion width, 0.02mm layer height and 60mm/s print speed, you would need a feedrate of 0.06mm/s into your extruder. The extruder might not be able to develop enough force on the filament at such a low speed (which, owing to the small nozzle size, requires a relatively large amount of force).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The ultimaker can not print 6 micron layers since the smallest increment the Z-axis can move in is 5 microns. 6 microns is not a multiple of that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastActivityDate="2016-09-24T09:32:30.207" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2817" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2818" CreationDate="2016-09-25T15:06:21.483" Score="4" ViewCount="3466" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to find the correct way to read and understand the dimensions of a 3D printer.  For example, if I read the following dimensions for the &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B018E9T50Y&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Robo 3D R1 Plus&lt;/a&gt; as 10x9x8 Inch - I want to know what &lt;strong&gt;10&lt;/strong&gt; stands for (does it mean print height?), &lt;strong&gt;9&lt;/strong&gt; (depth?), and &lt;strong&gt;8&lt;/strong&gt; (width?); etc.  I'm not sure if I'm assuming correctly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know this should be simple, but I'm not sure where to reference the proper ordering, respective to each aforementioned dimension.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;UPDATE&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While looking at &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.makerbot.com/replicator/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Makerbot's Replicator&lt;/a&gt; technical specifications, I see them listing their dimensions as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Build Volume&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;29.5 L X 19.5 W X 16.5 H CM&#xA;[11.6 X 7.6 X 6.5 IN]&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, if I'm reading this correctly, can I infer that 11.6 IN is referring to the length/depth, 7.6 IN is referring to the width, and 6.5 IN is referring to the height.  Would this be the universal/standard way of referring to build specifications for all 3D printers?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1639" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-07-05T21:16:59.040" LastActivityDate="2018-07-05T21:16:59.040" Title="How to properly read dimensions for a 3D printer?" Tags="|diy-3d-printer|printer-building|desktop-printer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2818" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2817" CreationDate="2016-09-26T08:42:22.690" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Having the dimensions of your 3D printer ordered in Length x Width x Height is a common way, but nobody actually decided it.&#xA;I think it has something to do with the 3rd dimension being the &quot;new&quot; dimension for printing things, that's why it's appended at the end.&#xA;Additionally, the first axis on a 2D-coordinate system usually is the horizontal one, so writing Length x Width makes sense for me.&#xA;If you are unsure you can always test your printer (if you have one) by writing your own G-Code that moves the printhead on a defined axis.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4285" LastActivityDate="2016-09-26T08:42:22.690" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2819" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2810" CreationDate="2016-09-26T09:57:56.210" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;To increase the strength of small parts I do:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Increase the nozzle size to layer height ratio. While 2 is the most popular choice (0.4 nozzle for 0.2 layer) the science behind the process really recommends around 4 (0.7 nozzle for 0.2 layer).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Increase the number of outer shells. I made dragons with great wings with 4 shells and no infill. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Typical things: raise temp, reduce speed. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4345" LastEditorUserId="4345" LastEditDate="2016-09-26T10:20:55.007" LastActivityDate="2016-09-26T10:20:55.007" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2820" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="927" CreationDate="2016-09-26T21:01:59.830" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I do my own filaments and its pretty simple. The real key for quality is &lt;strong&gt;stability of everything&lt;/strong&gt;. The temperature, the movement of the air around cooling part, the extrusion force, both internal and external. It is funny to watch how I have several atm pressure inside my extruder, yet the gust of wind outside the room changes the outside pressure enough to affect filament. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yet I manage to keep my tolerances +- 0.05 mm which is enough for everything but miniature printing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4345" LastActivityDate="2016-09-26T21:01:59.830" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2821" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2815" CreationDate="2016-09-27T07:29:01.410" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;In addition of Tom van der Zanden's answer, when the filament moves too slowly through the heated part of the printhead it is very likeley to clog.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have had this multiple times on my UM1+, most of the time resulting from a heated printhead with no extrusion (before or after prints). So you need to be sure to have a minimum of filament extrusion happening, wich is most likeley not the case when having 0.25mm * 20 micron instead of 0.60mm * 20micron, for example.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could of course make the printhead move faster, resulting in a higher extrusion, but that will lower the print quality again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But let me tell you this: Always look out for high extrusion, removing clogs is a real pain!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4285" LastActivityDate="2016-09-27T07:29:01.410" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2822" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2893" CreationDate="2016-09-29T14:11:18.670" Score="10" ViewCount="15802" Body="&lt;p&gt;My wife wants me to use an FFM 3d printer to make custom stamps for her to use on paper (scrap books, letters, etc.). She is convinced, however, that they will be too rigid to make good stamps.  A quick google search showed ones made from &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprint.com/110918/3d-printed-stamp-collection/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;PLA&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3669&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;ABS&lt;/a&gt;. Logically, though, a TPU or similar would address her concerns.  A good quality stamp needs to hold ink and make good, even contact with the paper. It would probably need to be able to be sanded or smoothed in some way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am supposed to receive my printer next week or so and am trying to get some filaments, STL files, and accessories I will need ready in advance so I can rapidly learn how to use it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36" LastEditorUserId="36" LastEditDate="2016-09-29T15:45:07.627" LastActivityDate="2016-10-14T01:04:43.477" Title="What type filament should I use to produce stamps?" Tags="|filament|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2823" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2824" CreationDate="2016-09-29T20:54:17.693" Score="6" ViewCount="1765" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know I should use different nozzles for filaments that use vastly different temperatures but what about filament types that use similar temperatures?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, PLA and PLA composites like ColorFabb Woodfill filament.  Should I use a separate nozzle for that?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4378" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-07-05T08:34:31.950" LastActivityDate="2019-07-05T08:38:58.043" Title="Should I use different nozzles for different materials?" Tags="|nozzle|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="2824" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2823" CreationDate="2016-09-29T21:01:18.693" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is absolutely no reason to use different nozzles, &lt;em&gt;not even if filaments do require different temperatures&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only exception is when printing abrasive filaments (such as glow-in-the-dark and carbon-fiber) in which case you should use an abrasion-resistant, stainless steel nozzle. This nozzle can also be used to to print &quot;regular&quot; filaments but a regular brass nozzle has slightly more favorable properties if you do not require abrasion resistance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastActivityDate="2016-09-29T21:01:18.693" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2825" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2822" CreationDate="2016-09-30T13:39:48.960" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Recently I've experimented with printing some &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B00TOOBPNO&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Nylon 618 filament&lt;/a&gt; after &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.matterhackers.com/articles/printing-with-nylon&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;reading stuff online&lt;/a&gt; about it.  I'm using a Craftbot original with the stock hotend, keeping the Nylon dry in a ziploc bag.  It prints really well, just tricky to get it to stick to the bed (I'm still working on that), but otherwise it's great.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once printed, the main difference from PLA prints is the nylon remains more flexible.  If you bend a thin nylon print, it tends to just spring back to the shape that came off the printer.  That's very different from my PLA prints, which will either stay bent or break apart.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I believe that nylon would be a good material for you to try for stamps, because of this flexibility and shape-preserving quality.  The comments show some other materials to try, but I'm limiting my answer here to my own personal experience.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1400" LastActivityDate="2016-09-30T13:39:48.960" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2826" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-09-30T15:51:15.900" Score="10" ViewCount="3926" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a weird problem with my old 3D printer, it is a Prusa/Mendel type.&#xA;When I print a 20&amp;nbsp;mm cube, X and Y are correct, Z is resulting 16 to 17&amp;nbsp;mm.&#xA;I have checked the correctness of the movement on Z using the manual controls and there are no issues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I played a bit with the layer thickness, I have a 0.4&amp;nbsp;mm nozzle, setting the layer height to 0.12&amp;nbsp;mm (normally is on 0.16&amp;nbsp;mm) but no changes in the result.&#xA;I am printing PLA on a cold bed at 180&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C without any other particular defect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would appreciate some direction on how to solve such problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4388" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2019-07-05T09:25:38.470" LastActivityDate="2019-07-05T09:25:38.470" Title="Height of printed part is incorrect" Tags="|print-quality|troubleshooting|prusa-mendel|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="2828" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2826" CreationDate="2016-10-01T10:53:11.910" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should check that the steps per mm for your Z-axis are set correctly. This depends on the pitch of the leadscrews/threaded rods driving the axis and parameters of your steppers (microstepping and raw steps/revolution). &lt;a href=&quot;http://prusaprinters.org/calculator/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;This Calculator&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Make sure that your layer height is a multiple of a full step of the Z-stepper. The Z-stepper may be disabled intermittently, and when re-enabled it may &quot;snap&quot; to the nearest full step position. If your layer height requires microstepping, you may notice it getting rounded down or up due to this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For instance, if a full step were 0.08&amp;nbsp;mm, then 0.16&amp;nbsp;mm layers would require 2 full steps, printing fine. 0.12&amp;nbsp;mm layers would require 1 full step and a half microstep. Due to rounding, some layers might be reduced to 0.08&amp;nbsp;mm instead. This might account for the height discrepancy you're seeing (though 0.08&amp;nbsp;mm is quite a high, unrealistic amount for a full-step).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-07-05T08:45:44.367" LastActivityDate="2019-07-05T08:45:44.367" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="2829" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2826" CreationDate="2016-10-02T19:51:45.420" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could check that the stepper driver IC for the z direction is not getting too hot while printing. If this is the case it may be that the current adjustment of the stepper driver is set incorrect causing it to skip steps. however you would expect the same behaviour in manual operation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4406" LastActivityDate="2016-10-02T19:51:45.420" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2830" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2826" CreationDate="2016-10-03T05:01:31.180" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Thanks to your advices I pointed my effort on the root of the possible cause on the Z axis.&#xA;I swapped the Polou driver between x and z and clearly noted that now the problem is on x. I had to conclude that the problem is with the Polou driver which randomly looses steps.&#xA;What is surprising me is that on the Z axis I have two motor type Nema 14 which should work at 0,75A therefore 1,5 A total. The Polou driver, old type, is rated at 1A. So it is not a surprise, now that I have learned about this configuration, that the z driver is giving troubles. The problem was there since the beginning and with the ageing of the components it revealed itself.&#xA;I will replace the actual Polou drivers with the new type rated at 2 A and restart from there.&#xA;Thanks for the advices.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4388" LastActivityDate="2016-10-03T05:01:31.180" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2831" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2839" CreationDate="2016-10-03T05:21:07.127" Score="4" ViewCount="403" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was very excited to get my 3d printer but sadly I didn't realise I'd installed the z axis upside down. There's a plastic coupler that goes into the hole for the polished rods it broke then released 1 -2mm sized ball bearing all over my floor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it possible to just replace that coupler thingy?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or if I 3d print a replacement will it still need that coupler thingy?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1rXUX.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1rXUX.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/H9cbM.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/H9cbM.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first picture is the one that spilled it's guts all over my kitchen floor. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The last image is an example of how it used to look like but on the left hand side. I know the image looks like it's the right but you can see a bit of the horizontal rods if look closely&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4408" LastEditorUserId="4408" LastEditDate="2016-10-04T11:55:38.800" LastActivityDate="2016-10-04T12:44:04.413" Title="Hictop prusa I3 clone - broken z axis right bracket bearing" Tags="|diy-3d-printer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2832" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2874" CreationDate="2016-10-03T14:11:16.033" Score="9" ViewCount="4744" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am wondering if making an hermetic box is feasible using 3D printer. The box would be a cube with a front face removable, with screw and sealing joint to close it.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I searched for different materials, however, none talks about hermiticity. (However, I found a product that seems to improve water resistance of 3D printed items &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.nanovia-technologies.com/...mperm-f10-ft-tds.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;, which might be a starting point)    &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone have experienced to make hermetic things ? I am specially interested in carbon fiber reinforced materials.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4415" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2021-01-22T06:52:36.713" LastActivityDate="2021-01-22T06:52:36.713" Title="Is it possible to make a hermetic sealed 3D Printed case?" Tags="|3d-design|filament-choice|water-resistance|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2833" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2899" CreationDate="2016-10-03T15:01:39.083" Score="4" ViewCount="2146" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to print with Laybrick and for the most part it is going.  The problem lies with the top layer and gaps appearing.  I've tried increasing the number of top layers but the gaps still appear.  Any ideas what else I can try? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm using Simplify3d.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Y05dR.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Y05dR.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Image&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4378" LastActivityDate="2016-10-15T16:15:39.373" Title="Laybrick - Gaps on top layer" Tags="|simplify3d|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2834" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2832" CreationDate="2016-10-03T15:21:15.227" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I believe this can be achieved using o-rings.  That's what they use for scuba diving lights.  The component doesn't need to be circular, but the o-ring needs to be slightly smaller than the component so that it is held in place via tension.  Additionally, you'll want to create a groove for the o-ring to set it in and make sure that the o-ring protrudes slightly so that it applies pressure and creates a tiny amount of friction when it's coupled with its counterpart.  Apply some type of lubricant to prevent the o-ring from sliding out of place and to keep it from drying out and cracking. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4416" LastActivityDate="2016-10-03T15:21:15.227" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2835" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2809" CreationDate="2016-10-03T16:09:21.867" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's probably a fuse or the MOSFET fried?&#xA;Try checking for continuity on the fuse and voltage on the MOSFET.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4225" LastActivityDate="2016-10-03T16:09:21.867" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2839" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2831" CreationDate="2016-10-04T12:44:04.413" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;That &quot;plastic coupler thingy&quot; is actually a linear bearing, and it consists of a metal shell, and the metal balls roll between the smooth rod and this shell. The plastic part has a channel that guides the balls in a circle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It would be best to replace the entire bearing (metal part+balls+plastic liner). It's probably either an LM8UU (most likely) or LM8LUU bearing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3D Printing a new part will not give good results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastActivityDate="2016-10-04T12:44:04.413" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2840" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2832" CreationDate="2016-10-04T17:43:02.660" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have very little experience printing waterproof stuff.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I printed a flower pot in &lt;em&gt;ABS&lt;/em&gt; some time ago. Right after print it was leaking water. Then I processed the pot with acetone vapour to create a layer of melted ABS on the surface of the pot and then it became water-proof.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As another option for non-solvable in acetone materials like PLA I would rub in some sealant paste to the surface, but I never have actually tried that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another thing to consider: you should think carefully about your design and may be even conduct few experiments to verify printed part meets your mechanical criteria. Unlike injection molding, FDM prints are breaking more easily in some directions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="34" LastActivityDate="2016-10-04T17:43:02.660" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2841" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2833" CreationDate="2016-10-04T22:14:55.270" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;When using Simplify3D, you may try referring to their awesome troubleshooting guide: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/#holes-and-gaps-in-the-top-layers&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/#holes-and-gaps-in-the-top-layers&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;3 reasons (from the guide) for gaps in the top layers:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;under-extrusion: you may try to increase extrusion multiplier to see if this helps&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;low infill percentage: not likely in your case if increasing number of top layers did not help&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;not enough top layers: you already tried increasing number of top layers.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition to that, you may change certain parameters (such as extrusion multiplier) for a given number of layers by using Simplify3D features. It can be helpful to avoid problems to for the rest of the model.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3839" LastActivityDate="2016-10-04T22:14:55.270" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2843" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2860" CreationDate="2016-10-05T15:20:36.943" Score="5" ViewCount="619" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've a friend who is expecting.  There are several adorable weapon themed rattles on thingiverse.  I am, however, concerned about safety associated with such a product in the hands of a baby who will gnaw on it.  To me the safety concerns here are much larger than for most food handling applications.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What steps should be taken to ensure such a print is safe for use?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This includes: filament selection, pea material selection, wall thickness, smoothing, construction, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My current thoughts are as follows: &quot;food grade PLA&quot;, dried peas, sanding, and single piece construction&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2018-12-12T10:19:30.980" LastActivityDate="2018-12-12T10:19:30.980" Title="3D printing related safety precautions for a baby rattle" Tags="|print-material|filament-choice|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2844" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2832" CreationDate="2016-10-05T17:29:40.127" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm currently working on a project where a kind of box has to stay underwater, and until now, the best hermetic system I found is using coatings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The best of them until now is PVC glue that I use on ABS as a coating with a little trowel. What I find nice is that's quick and that looks smoother and resistant. A disadvantage is that you need some practice to make something quite esthetic...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An other option I've tried is a very fluid mastic call &quot;Creeping crack cure&quot; which is perfect for 3D print since the part literally drinks it. Then, when it's dry, it also acts like a glue and can reinforce the part. A disadvantage I have however is that the mastic becomes no more transparent when the part stays in water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Still not the perfect solution, but at least, no water goes through my parts :) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4449" LastEditorUserId="4449" LastEditDate="2016-10-06T11:00:32.173" LastActivityDate="2016-10-06T11:00:32.173" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2845" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2873" CreationDate="2016-10-05T19:58:12.607" Score="4" ViewCount="1665" Body="&lt;p&gt;I 3d-printed a key.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8sfuT.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8sfuT.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XoGY3.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XoGY3.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;When I put it in the lock the pins move but, when I go to turn it the key rips and the lock doesn't turn. I compared it to the real key and it's identical. Is there something I can do to make it work and not rip? Is there some filament that I can print it out of? I used ABS.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4452" LastActivityDate="2016-10-11T00:42:13.313" Title="3d Key not strong enough" Tags="|filament|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2846" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2845" CreationDate="2016-10-06T01:09:37.630" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Which direction are the layers being printed? If the layers are printing top to bottom (in relation to your picture) there isn't a lot of sheer force required to break the key when turning. If you make the layers print from left to right you might have better luck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4456" LastActivityDate="2016-10-06T01:09:37.630" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2848" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2852" CreationDate="2016-10-06T16:05:39.450" Score="8" ViewCount="282" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a model I would like to print, specifically it is a free-for-personal-use model of a car, complete with interior.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would like to print it, but it is unprintable. I have tried to fix it in netfabb, which works OK. But now I realised I have another problem - the inside of the car is hollow, and has a full interior. I just want the shell of the car and a solid block (complete with opaque 'windows').&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How would I take a detailed model and somehow extract a solid 3D printable model from it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1929" LastEditorUserId="132" LastEditDate="2017-05-15T11:46:16.720" LastActivityDate="2017-05-15T11:46:16.720" Title="Take a detailed model and make it suitable for 3D printing?" Tags="|3d-models|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2849" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2850" CreationDate="2016-10-06T18:05:35.457" Score="4" ViewCount="126" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is the 3D printing technology that allow to have minimal loss in precious metals when 3D printing jewels?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4465" LastEditorUserId="4927" LastEditDate="2017-03-07T18:13:54.670" LastActivityDate="2017-03-07T18:13:54.670" Title="Can I print jewelry without any loss of the precious metal?" Tags="|metal-parts|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2850" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2849" CreationDate="2016-10-06T18:19:25.953" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The jewelry industry typically uses printers that print in wax, and transform the models into precious metal by lost wax casting. Statasys offers wax printing in their Solidscape line, 3D systems offers ProJet. With this process there is basically no waste, since you can remelt the casting sprues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am not aware of printers that print directly in precious metal. It might technically be possible with DMLS but you have to fill up the entire machine with metal powder, which is cost prohibitive (and potentially more wasteful).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastActivityDate="2016-10-06T18:19:25.953" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2851" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2845" CreationDate="2016-10-06T19:26:20.787" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&quot;You're going to need a bigger boat^H^H^H^H filament&quot; .  Perhaps one of the carbon-fiber-loaded filaments will hold up, or perhaps a bunch of silicone spray dumped into the lock cylinder is needed.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to get really fancy, start with a thin metal key blank and deposit the filament around that. This might give you enough structural strength.  I don't know exactly how you'd print on three sides, as typical RepRaps and their ilk aren't set up to work around an object. Possibly printing with the key vertical and zero infil would allow you to insert a metal stiffener after printing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2191" LastActivityDate="2016-10-06T19:26:20.787" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2852" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2848" CreationDate="2016-10-06T22:33:02.170" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would recommend &quot;The Maker's Muse&quot; youtube video channel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In particular this video &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8ECNP3WN_-Q&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Fixing impossible STL&amp;#39;s with Meshmixer 3.1.118 BETA&quot;&gt;Fixing impossible STL's with Meshmixer 3.1.118 BETA&lt;/a&gt; might solve your problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Few other videos which might help:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aPUT_q8tcsM&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;How to make Engineering Assemblies 3D Printable using Meshmixer&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LeuX963jpn8&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Add smoothness to your meshes using remeshing! 3D 101&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oR-cToT8v-c&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;A Detailed look at Processes and Profiles in Simplify3D&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dwc1X6oInkc&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Tidy up your prints with the Modifi3D&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=afLolx2OEKE&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;How to Print Bigger Things - 3D Printing 101&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="34" LastActivityDate="2016-10-06T22:33:02.170" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2854" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2856" CreationDate="2016-10-07T06:11:42.397" Score="8" ViewCount="4941" Body="&lt;p&gt;On my Reprap-like 3D printer, I routed all the wires to a spot near the base; for the motors, endstops, thermistors, etc, I plugged them all into a &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B00V7S79BW&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;DB25 breakout board&lt;/a&gt;, and that's working great.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For my Extruder (12v), and my heat bed (16v), I'm using a 4-pin molex connector -- like we used to use for old hard drives and such, and it's working, but it gets a bit hot, and my print bed is having trouble reaching temperatures that it didn't have trouble with before. -- None of the wiring gets hot at any other point, and none of the other connectors get hot. -- The only thing that gets hot is this one molex connector.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I believe the heat is caused by passing too much current through that molex connector. -- I'm curious to know what other connectors might be better suited to this task.  Can you recommend something that's worked well for you, or others?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I prefer not to double or triple up this connector if it can be avoided, so that I can just have one physical connector to disconnect there, and so that I don't end up mixing them up. -- also, being able to easily disconnect it is important (it's hard to work on the reprap if I can't spin it around or turn it over, etc., that's why I'm using connectors for everything).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4472" LastActivityDate="2016-10-28T17:26:45.077" Title="Connector Suggestion for Extruder and Heatbed" Tags="|reprap|wiring|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2856" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2854" CreationDate="2016-10-07T07:17:11.957" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;You might be able to use one of the connectors (Deans Ultra, EC3, XT-60/30, Bullet) that are normally used for RC models. They're made for very high currents. The XT60 connectors depicted below are rated for 60A continuous (well above what you'd need for any heated bed); their smaller XT30 cousins are good for 30A but less commonly available.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LwWw6.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LwWw6.png&quot; alt=&quot;XT60 Connector&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;(Photo by Mark Fickett)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For your extruder you wouldn't need anything quite as drastic as an XT60, even a simple JST connector would suffice (though if you are going to source XT60/30's for your heated bed anyway, you might use them here as well).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uhsNc.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uhsNc.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;JST Connector&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;(Wikimedia Commons, Mike Mahoney)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastActivityDate="2016-10-07T07:17:11.957" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2858" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2845" CreationDate="2016-10-07T16:14:20.650" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;First step is to optimize the print, layers, shells and infill.  While ABS should hold up, if optimized, for at least one use.  It may not be the best filament.  PLA actually tests higher &lt;a href=&quot;https://eu.makerbot.com/fileadmin/Inhalte/Support/Datenblatt/MakerBot_R__PLA_and_ABS_Strength_Data.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;PLA vs ABS&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;As I had posted in a comment, finishing ABS adds strength to the filament bundle. An acetone dip, vapor or hand wash of the part helps bond the outside edges.  Parts that I make out of ABS for use on my car and motorcycle I vapor finish then polish with a soaked rag for a much more durable part.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Comparison tests of filaments are out there for the searching &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.matterhackers.com/news/filament-strength-testing&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;SUCH AS THIS ONE&lt;/a&gt; which compares strength of common filaments in use as a caribiner.  But finding one that does a true comparison like the ABS vs PLA that I linked I have not seen.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do look at other filaments I would avoid ones like iron, stainless, brass, carbon fiber, etc. as these actually are shown to be reduced in strength as the particles suspended lower the filament bonding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3986" LastActivityDate="2016-10-07T16:14:20.650" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2859" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2845" CreationDate="2016-10-07T22:48:19.823" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;That is correct! Take your raw ABS plastic and try to bend and break it. Do it again with a few lengths. Pretty easy to break it right?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You issue is the material is not up to par with your goal. Your heavy duty lock takes too much force to turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your solutions are to &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Find a stronger material. These are considered stronger than PLA / ABS&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;PVA&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;PET&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Polycarbonate&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;PETT (SHATTERS!)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;POM, Acetal&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Use the PLA to make a lossless cast of the key and use metal&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Find a easier lock and or invest in oil for the lock.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2146" LastActivityDate="2016-10-07T22:48:19.823" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2860" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2843" CreationDate="2016-10-08T02:40:08.590" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;You're on the right track.  Since you asked for &quot;steps&quot; here you go:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Step 1. Choose a safe material:&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Consider chemical safety and physical safety. Food grade PLA should be chemically safe, but could be too brittle depending on the design you choose.  PETG, T-Glase, or similar filaments (depending on dye) are normally also chemically safe and are less brittle than PLA so may be a better alternative.  ABS is NOT typically considered safe for food contact.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Step 2. Choose a safe design:&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If using PLA, be sure the design is robust enough to ensure it won't break.  Broken rattles with sharp edges make baby...sad.  Even less brittle filaments can still break with jagged edges if the design is fragile.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Step 2a. Choose a single piece design:&lt;/strong&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Choose a design that requires you to add the peas (or other safe filler) during the print such that the finished rattle is fully enclosed.  This will minimize parts becoming loose or peas spilling and minimize choke hazards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Step 3. Consider post processing to improve safety:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sanding could reduce ridges and minimize crevices that could harbor bacteria, but sealing it with a food-safe sealant may be more effective.  There are many sealants that the FDA considers safe, but polyurethane or food-safe epoxy finishes will work well with PLA. (If you use a different material, test to verify good adhesion.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Step 4. Test:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Make a test rattle and run it through the paces.  I guess you could chew on it, but since babies don't have teeth, this might invalidate your data...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Step 5. Consider alternatives such as professional printing services:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your tests don't inspire confidence, professional services can offer additional materials (metals, ceramics, etc.) that could be safer than a typical fused filament printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4483" LastActivityDate="2016-10-08T02:40:08.590" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2861" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2709" CreationDate="2016-10-08T03:40:50.367" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Several factors to consider, but don't get discouraged, it is definitely something you can solve.  Consider this...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Z height:&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;Lower Z squishes first layer more and increases sticking, higher Z results in less plastic contacting the print surface and reduces sticking.  Tweaking your Z-height can help you dial-in your first layer adhesion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Print Temperatures:&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;Higher extruder and bed temps during printing will tend to increase sticking.  Lowering temps will reduce sticking.  Run several tests, just a few degrees can make a difference and finding the right balance can take some trial and error.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Removal Temperatures:&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;There is typically a warm bed removal temperature that works best, when the bed has cooled but not all the way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Anti-warp &quot;tabs&quot;:&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;If you're making your own models, you can add a breakaway tab to the ends of parts that are prone to warping.  This improves surface area for hold down where you need it, but takes minimal post processing to remove.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Dry your filament:&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;Warping is generally much worse when filament absorbs water from the air.  Some filaments such as polycarbonate are VERY prone to this, but even PLA warping can be reduced by drying the filament.  To dry your filament you can use a low temperature in your oven, make a drying bucket, or my favorite, put it under a vacuum with a vacuum pump.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Removal tricks:&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;Various methods of rapidly cooling the edge of the print with canned air, alcohol, etc. can really help. Thin metal spatulas can work wonders.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Try PEI on your print surface:&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;PEI is awesome.  Many common filaments stick very well while it's hot and release easily when it's cool.  Check out the way Lulzbot attaches their PEI print surface to all their printer beds.  It's a pretty easy and cheap mod.  The other factors I listed still matter, but PEI makes it MUCH easier. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4483" LastActivityDate="2016-10-08T03:40:50.367" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2862" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2866" CreationDate="2016-10-08T05:46:41.747" Score="9" ViewCount="7163" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is something I've ignored for awhile, but it keeps cropping up, and occasionally, if the filament snags real good, it can mess up a great print half way through, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically I have my filament spools hanging on a PVC pipe mounted directly above the printer, and the printer just sucks it in from the spool, but occasionally it becomes knotted at the spool, or becomes otherwise tangled.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm thinking even if I completely unwrapped and rewrapped all of my spools so there was no trace of a tangle, what's to stop it from happening again? -- What's a good strategy for managing this kind of issue?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit:&lt;/strong&gt; From some of the answers below, it seems that maybe the travel of my X carriage back and forth could be why my spools keep getting tangled. -- It looks like many people have their spools at about 90 degrees from mine (rotated relative to the Z axis of the printer), so that the travel of the X carriage won't have that affect. -- Also guides, etc are probably a good idea.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's my current setup for reference (filament removed):&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lsCOe.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lsCOe.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4472" LastEditorUserId="4472" LastEditDate="2016-10-10T00:02:52.553" LastActivityDate="2021-03-29T07:03:59.283" Title="Keeping my filament spools from getting knotted?" Tags="|filament|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2863" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2862" CreationDate="2016-10-08T06:59:11.280" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Always keep track of the loose end of the filament. It's either in your extruder, or fixed to the spool (either with a clip or clothespin or just by threading it through the holes which are usually in the rim of the spool, provided for just this purpose). The only way a spool can get tangled is if you let go of the loose end of filament.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Though not technically &lt;em&gt;tangled&lt;/em&gt; your filament can also get stuck if the spool does not properly unwind (and the filament gets wrapped around the axle that supports your spool). Make sure your spool can rotate on its holder easily (ball bearings are not needed, a simple round axle is enough). Make sure that your printer pulls on the middle of the spool, and not sideways. If necessary, could build a guide (such as a small ring or tube for the filament to pass through) to keep it centered.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastEditorUserId="26" LastEditDate="2016-10-08T08:35:12.950" LastActivityDate="2016-10-08T08:35:12.950" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2864" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2875" CreationDate="2016-10-08T10:04:48.197" Score="10" ViewCount="7290" Body="&lt;p&gt;Repetier host 1.6.2.&#xA;Used Slic3r and CuraEngine in RH1.6.2 to slice my prints.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;OK, I have a problem. Z offset does not work. Well...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Flashed EEPROM clear.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Enabled EEPROM and CHIT CHAT within the firmware.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I've set -0.4 in Marlin firmware 1.0.2-1 stable and flashed it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;results in&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;    G28; home axis = works&#xA;    G29; auto level = works&#xA;    G28; it goes to home and then sets Z to 0.4&#xA;    G1 Z0; brings nozzle down from 0.4 to 0, so this works also.&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But when I slice with Repetier host 1.6.2 with the latest slicer/curaengine, it does not go down 0.4 mm before starting to print.&#xA;I've set the first layer to 0.2 mm, but when it starts printing the first layer, it goes from 0.4 mm (after home Z is on 0.4 mm) to 0.6 mm instead of 0.2 mm! ...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do I fix this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Gcode start:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;    ;Generated with Cura_SteamEngine 15.01&#xA;    ; Default start code&#xA;    G28 ; Home extruder&#xA;    G29 ; Auto level&#xA;    G1 Z15 F100&#xA;    M107 ; Turn off fan&#xA;    G90 ; Absolute positioning&#xA;    M82 ; Extruder in absolute mode&#xA;    M190 S35&#xA;    ; Activate all used extruder&#xA;    M104 T0 S230&#xA;    G92 E0 ; Reset extruder position&#xA;    ; Wait for all used extruders to reach temperature&#xA;    M109 T0 S230&#xA;    ;Layer count: 226&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's definitely Repetier or its slicers. I'm using Cura 15.04.6 and it also calculates the offset set in Marlin when printing! I'm trying to use Cura 2.1 because it's newer, but I do not get the print USB option in Cura 2.1 :/&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I just don't get it, it was printing very nice the first 4 layers, and suddenly it moved up more than 0.5 mm and continued printing there, in the air.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yesterday's print:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0D3MH.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Photo of a number of 3D printed models that printed well&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0D3MH.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Photo of a number of 3D printed models that printed well&quot; title=&quot;Photo of a number of 3D printed models that printed well&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dyqr1.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Photo of the side of the same set of models&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dyqr1.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Photo of the side of the same set of models&quot; title=&quot;Photo of the side of the same set of models&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Today's print:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ncQJW.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Photo of a 3D printed Eiffel Tower showing very bad print quality&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ncQJW.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Photo of a 3D printed Eiffel Tower showing very bad print quality&quot; title=&quot;Photo of a 3D printed Eiffel Tower showing very bad print quality&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4485" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2023-08-03T03:20:23.493" LastActivityDate="2023-08-03T03:20:23.493" Title="Z offset incorrect" Tags="|prusa-i3|z-probe|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="2866" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2862" CreationDate="2016-10-08T15:05:50.127" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had the same problem with my FFC dual.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Consider using some kind of retaing clip to hold the spool in place, so it doesn't move back and forth on the post. This &lt;a href=&quot;https://web.archive.org/web/20170127154947if_/http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:923340&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;spool holder&lt;/a&gt; worked for me:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PGssw.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PGssw.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another thing that can help is to make sure you are pulling the filament from the middle of the spool.  &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:409297&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;This&lt;/a&gt; worked for me:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pQ5aD.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pQ5aD.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1397" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-03-29T07:03:59.283" LastActivityDate="2021-03-29T07:03:59.283" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="2867" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2871" CreationDate="2016-10-09T05:01:43.607" Score="6" ViewCount="525" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've recently upgraded my Replicator 2 with a heatbed and the more powerful power brick (9.2A). The problem I'm having right now is that the Replicator restarts right after the preheat of the bedplate finishes. It does not matter which temperature I set as threshold - it restarts either way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So it restarts even in very low temperatures on the HBP. Tried upgrading the firmware and even switch firmware to Sailfish, but it's still the same issue. I would really love if someone could help me with this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: I've checked my cables and it seems okay. Themistor is connected via pin 1 and 3 and the power should be fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit2&lt;/strong&gt;: Found the problem. It was a faulty hotend that caused all of this. It works to print with , but togheter with the heated bed it makes the Replicator to restart.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4486" LastEditorUserId="4486" LastEditDate="2016-10-13T17:51:30.543" LastActivityDate="2016-10-13T17:51:30.543" Title="Makerbot Replicator 2 restarts after preheating the hbp" Tags="|heated-bed|makerbot|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2868" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2862" CreationDate="2016-10-09T15:17:10.783" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I first set up my printer, the spool was able to spin freely. Filament was making loose coils on the outer layer of the spool. Snags happened frequently. I decided that not allowing the spool to spin faster than the rate draw of the filament might improve the way the filament was feeding. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I put more physical distance between the spool and the machine. The filament stopped bunching up in loose coils on the surface of the spool, and the snags went away. The increased amount of slack between the machine and the spool seemed to absorb the &quot;overshoot&quot; of the filament draw and the spools became much better behaved. I also was able to run the spool down to the end more consistently than before.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not everyone has extra room to use, and not all extruders are conveniently oriented, so moving the spool further away from the machine won't work for everyone. I believe a guide or some sort of dampener would serve the same function, if the underlying problem is the spool loosening up enough to where loops of filament get caught under others and then snag. What worked for me was to stop the spool from &quot;racing ahead&quot; of the rate of draw and loosening up enough to snag.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4495" LastActivityDate="2016-10-09T15:17:10.783" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2869" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2854" CreationDate="2016-10-09T19:16:50.663" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I agree with Tom's answer about RC connectors. Another good connector option worth considering is Anderson Powerpoles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;They're &quot;modular&quot; so you can use them to assemble connectors with multiple wires.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;They crimp instead of solder (I really recommend the special crimping tool if you plan to use these regularly)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;They're more expensive&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;No male/female, you use the same connector on both ends so you never run out of either male or female ends.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The small size is a little larger than an XT60 connector.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uSmdJ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uSmdJ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Anderson Powerpole connectors next to XT60&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both good options depending on your specific needs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4483" LastActivityDate="2016-10-09T19:16:50.663" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2871" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2867" CreationDate="2016-10-10T22:05:19.980" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Clues so far:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You changed your hardware to add a heated bed.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You've had the same symptoms with three different firmware versions.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your Replicator 2 reboots right after preheat, regardless of temp set.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;My Assumptions&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You have not tweaked firmware or other settings that could cause both the heated bed and hot end to draw high loads simultaneously.  (By default Makerbot handles this in firmware, avoiding situations that could over-tax the 9.2A power supply which isn't really enough to handle preheating both at the same time.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Potential Problems:&lt;/strong&gt; Listed starting with the easiest to fix...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;No problem, carry on:&lt;/strong&gt; If you are printing from the USB cable, a restart after preheat could be a normal condition.  The Replicator 2 reboots to reset inputs when you start a print over USB...this is normal.  So, if you're preheating with the buttons and then you start a print, this would be expected behavior.  Try printing from SD card and it shouldn't reboot.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Power Supply voltage switch:&lt;/strong&gt; Make sure your power supply voltage input switch is on the correct voltage, either 110 or 220.  Having it set to 220 when you're using 110 can cause reboots due to insufficient power. (brown-out)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Wrong heated bed:&lt;/strong&gt; If your heated bed draws too much power (it is higher power than the Replicator 2 can support with that power supply), you may get reboots due to insufficient power. (brown-out)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Short somewhere:&lt;/strong&gt; A short somewhere in your system could cause too much power draw.  This could be somewhere in your heated bed, your hot end, or other.  Inspect carefully around the areas where you moved wires.  You could have a frayed wire contacting the frame, a screw shorting between two wires, or a little stray &quot;hair&quot; of copper wire sticking somewhere it shouldn't.  This too will cause a reboot due to insufficient power. (brown-out)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope this helps.  For further reference, read &lt;a href=&quot;http://shop.prusa3d.com/forum/prusa-i3-kit-building-calibrating-first-print-main-f6/printer-reboots-when-initating-pre-heat-t362.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this thread&lt;/a&gt; as I believe it has some relevant info.  :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4483" LastEditorUserId="4483" LastEditDate="2016-10-12T18:09:36.427" LastActivityDate="2016-10-12T18:09:36.427" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2872" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-10-10T23:58:07.530" Score="7" ViewCount="117" Body="&lt;p&gt;What materials, available as filaments for use in FDM printing, are known to be the most physically and chemically inert? In particular, stability (not necessarily simultaneously) in the presence of the following should be assumed:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;pH 0-14&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;oxidizing agents (ozone, permanganates, dichromates, acidic hydrogen&#xA;peroxide)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;organic solvents (particularly acetone, methanol, toluene, formamide)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;temperature up to 160 degrees Celsius&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;pressures between ~10^-7 torr and ~2 bar&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;oxygen or argon plasma&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4506" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2019-07-01T10:57:31.657" LastActivityDate="2019-07-01T11:21:06.003" Title="stable FDM materials" Tags="|material|filament-choice|stability|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2873" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2845" CreationDate="2016-10-11T00:42:13.313" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I must admit, I've never printed a key...but I think I can help anyway:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Print method:&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;Consider printing on side, solid concentric infill.  Or, if you can't manipulate your infill pattern, just increase the perimeter so you get the same effect, several continuous perimeter layers around the outline of the key.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Print material:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Elongation before break is important here in addition to tensile strength...you need it to be stiff enough, but not brittle.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;ABS, PLA, or HIPS:&lt;/strong&gt; Not likely to be successful...but maybe.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;PETG and PETG based filaments like T-Glase, N-Vent, nGen, INOVA-1800:&lt;/strong&gt; A little better, but still likely to deform and/or break.  &#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Polycarbonate:&lt;/strong&gt; Great for this, but is a fairly advanced material which tends to require pre-drying, enclosures, and PVA for hold down as well as a hot end that can handle at least 290C.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Nylons:&lt;/strong&gt; Good, but most Nylons may be more &quot;bendy&quot; than you want for this.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Taulman's Alloy 910:&lt;/strong&gt; Bingo. This should work nicely if you'd rather not struggle with printing polycarbonate.  Alloy 910 prints near ABS settings, sticks well on a PVA-treated heated bed.  (I use 85C for bed)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I would not suggest a CF filled filament for this because they tend to be brittle.  &lt;strong&gt;Matter Hacker's NylonX&lt;/strong&gt; with CF is a possible exception since it's nylon based, but I haven't tested it...yet. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4483" LastActivityDate="2016-10-11T00:42:13.313" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2874" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2832" CreationDate="2016-10-11T01:31:41.817" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;A few thoughts that might help...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Material:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;ABS can be vapor smoothed with Acetone which results in the layers sort of &quot;melting&quot; together to form a smoother, and less porous surface.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Other plastics can be smoothed with compatible solvents, but I've not tried solvent smoothing with anything other than ABS.  Be careful if you try.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Print Method:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Consider slightly higher print temps to increase layer adhesion.  You'll likely have to compensate with extra retraction to avoid excessive stringing.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Consider more perimeter layers and more top/bottom layers.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The CF materials are stiffened with chopped CF strands...I think it's a stretch to call them &quot;reinforced&quot; unless you happen to have a Markforged printer or similar.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Sealants:&lt;/strong&gt; This is probably your best bet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Epoxy: Generally considered effective for producing hermetically sealed containers.  Dip or brush on.  Mind your VOC's and pay attention to working time.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Plasti-dip or similar sealants: These may be good enough for your application and result in a rubbery coating over your part.  Good for water sealing, and may be close enough to hermetically sealed for your needs.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Design:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;To mechanically seal the opening, there are many options depending on your requirements.  O-rings, gaskets, etc.  If you use a rubberized dip, you may be able to skip the gasket.  You could install a few threaded inserts around the perimeter of the opening, put in the screws, then dip.  After drying, you slice around the screw and remove it (this just keeps the coating out of your threads)  Dip the cover as well.  Then when you screw on the cover, it will provide a water-tight seal.  To help make a good seal, apply a silicone grease to the mating surface.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope this helps.  :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4483" LastActivityDate="2016-10-11T01:31:41.817" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2875" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2864" CreationDate="2016-10-11T01:55:03.807" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your question is a little hard to pin down, but I'll try to help anyway.  :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Z-Offset:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It appears you may be misunderstanding the way z-offset is supposed to work especially when it comes to Marlin setup and routine bed leveling and printing.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://clough42.com/instructions/marlin-firmware-setup/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;This may help.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://airtripper.com/1799/marlin-firmware-home-offset-guide-using-g-code-m206/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;And this&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Print Quality and Skipped layer issues:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From your pictures, you do have some loose or wobbly belts, pulleys, rails, or other mechanical components causing excessive play in your x and y axis...very apparent with the way your layers don't align well resulting in the very visible lines.  You can address this in two ways:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Make sure your physical components are tight and rigid enough to handle the print speed you're using.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Slow down your print speed to something that your machine can handle with reasonable quality...whatever reasonable is for you.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You mentioned skipped layers.  I see that in your tower.  This is most likely caused by: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tower legs too thin so Cura skips it because it can't fit there. I'd suggest using the layer preview in Cura, if the layer doesn't show in the preview, it won't print.  If this is because the leg is too thin for your nozzle diameter, you could increase the scale of the tower, edit the model to have thicker legs, or install a finer nozzle.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Issues with your mesh so Cura skips it.  Also use Cura's x-ray view.  If there are red areas, you have issues with your mesh.  Search for ways to fix your mesh and make sure your model is good to print.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, it could also be caused by issues with your filament feeding or your hot end.  Clogs, snags, etc.  If this were the case, your previews in Cura would all be fine.  To solve this you could:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Increase your print temperature slightly to ensure you're filament is melting quickly enough to support your print speed.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Slow down to allow the filament plenty of time to melt.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Make sure your feed system is snag-free.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Make sure your feed system is clean and adequately gripping the filament so it can push the filament into your hot end reliably.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope this helps.  :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4483" LastEditorUserId="4483" LastEditDate="2016-10-11T15:53:36.813" LastActivityDate="2016-10-11T15:53:36.813" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2876" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2872" CreationDate="2016-10-11T02:45:03.407" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;PEEK, a plastic known for its superior chemical and physical resilience (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.zeusinc.com/materials/peek/chemical-resistance-chart-peek&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.zeusinc.com/materials/peek/chemical-resistance-chart-peek&lt;/a&gt;), has been successfully used for filament-based printing (&lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprint.com/52713/indmatec-peek-fdm-printing-filament/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://3dprint.com/52713/indmatec-peek-fdm-printing-filament/&lt;/a&gt;). However, it is unlikely to be an option on most existing printers given its high melting temperature (around 343 degrees Celsius, &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/PEEK&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/PEEK&lt;/a&gt;). Though it does not meet all the criteria proposed (for instance, its glass transition temperature is around 143 degrees Celsius), overall it is a fairly good choice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Teflon, an obvious choice, unfortunately has a decomposition temperature very close to its melting temperature, and appears to be unsuitable for extrusion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4506" LastActivityDate="2016-10-11T02:45:03.407" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2879" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="709" CreationDate="2016-10-12T00:27:01.847" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I´m using sketchup 8 and I had the same error under makerbot, and some times with slic3r. After testing some programs to fix mesh I realize that some faces are inverted on STL file, so this can be detected on preview under pronterface, or simplify3D. before sending to print is needed to check this point; not all STL from a repository is working or is with the right size. If you detect a GRAY surface is time to invert that face to get que correct fill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4454" LastActivityDate="2016-10-12T00:27:01.847" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2880" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2881" CreationDate="2016-10-12T06:31:51.507" Score="8" ViewCount="3144" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking for any idea of what could cause this problem. I'm printing (1.75 mm PLA @ 220 °C) a 14 x 14 cm box, sliced with Simplify3D. Relevant settings are 3 bottom layers, 3 top layers, 3 outline/perimeter shells, and 15 % orthogonal infill every other layer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first 3 layers print fine.  Here's the first (bottom) layer after removing the print and turning it over:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/S45eF.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/S45eF.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;bottom layer&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The infill (layers 4-10) also prints beautifully (see left side of photo below).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But the moment it starts printing the next layer (layer 11, the top layer of the bottom of the box), which should be solid fill exactly like layers 1-3, it starts underextruding and generally looking like crap:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bPScE.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bPScE.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Not Good&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first time this happened, I figured the nozzle got clogged or the extruder gear started slipping. This is not the freshest PLA, so maybe it was a PLA quality problem. But the same thing happened at the same layer when I tried it again.  And again. And again. As soon as I cancel the print I can have it extrude 5 cm of filament and it's fine, no clogs...and if I immediately start another print it again perfectly prints layers 1-10.  So it doesn't seem to be the extruder, the nozzle, or PLA quality.  I can't imagine the &amp;quot;stress&amp;quot; of laying 7 layers of infill could screw up the next layer...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I just can't figure out how layers 2 and 3 could be basically perfect, but layer 11 is consistently a disaster, when they should be almost the exact same G-code (only a milimeter apart).  I looked at the G-code and it's basically identical for layers 3 and 11, including same feedrate (&lt;code&gt;G1 F2250&lt;/code&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is on a DeltaMaker printer with a new E3D Lite6 hot end.  Can add more details if needed, but basically I'm just looking for an idea of what could cause this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Update: Just tried a different roll of PLA and got the same results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4090" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2024-01-20T08:12:29.673" LastActivityDate="2024-01-20T08:12:29.673" Title="Why does print fall apart at beginning of top layer?" Tags="|print-quality|simplify3d|deltamaker|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="2881" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2880" CreationDate="2016-10-12T10:39:42.857" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I doubt this is a printer or filament issue. Rather, I suspect it might be related to how your slicer handles &lt;em&gt;bridging&lt;/em&gt; scenarios (which basically is what laying down layers over infill is).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could try to:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Increase the infill percentage and/or use an infill pattern that provides better support for the top layer (so that it isn't allowed to sag as much). You will probably still se &lt;em&gt;some&lt;/em&gt; sag, but that is usually covered up by the next layer. Adding print cooling might also help here.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Adjust the bridging settings in your slicer software. If under extrusion is the main issue, perhaps you could try to increase extrusion for bridges?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am no expert with Simplify3D, and I suspect that the default settings actually might be pretty good. I would therefore try option 1. first. Perhaps someone else here can give a better answer related to your slicer. :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="115" LastActivityDate="2016-10-12T10:39:42.857" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2882" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2880" CreationDate="2016-10-12T15:28:50.573" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The infill percentage is a bit low. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even with infill percentages that are higher than 15% (I use 25%), a single layer on top of infill will not create a good top. It takes at least two and looks really good with three. The first layer is often patchy looking! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're stopping your print after one layer, and have more layers to go, maybe let it continue and see if you are more satisfied with it after the second or third layer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you only have one top full coverage layer in your model, then I believe you will need to configure one or two more. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sometimes too high of heat will cause the layers after the infill to looks sparse and sag, so temperature (as always) is a factor for covering infill. :+)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4495" LastActivityDate="2016-10-12T15:28:50.573" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2883" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2880" CreationDate="2016-10-12T19:22:42.803" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Two things. First for a first layer from infill this is not unexpect. This is why you do 3-4 shells with such a sparse infill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most of the time we also have the first layer at a slower speed. Often we will get to this point and the difference in flow can be contributed to the temp to speed ratio. Try increasing your temp, or decreasing your solid layer speeds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I recommend starting with a basic calibration STL. You can find them on thingiverse. Start with single wall, upgrade to a square, hollow square, etc. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also increasing either number of top shells and or infill percent will also help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3D printing is all about balancing 20 settings. I think of it like a performer spinning multiple plates. That said all about baby steps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But to answer your question. Ignoring that this is exactly what I would expect even from a well calibrated printer on the first layer post infill.&#xA;layer 1-3 is that the first layer is very slow. The extruder has built up a backlog of melted plastic. Assuming you are running too cold or too slow for some different types of printing (infill, solid, bridging, solid infill) you will slowly run out. Then suddenly you hit this solid layer and it needs a LOT fast. But it can only melt plastic 90% of what you need. Then less will come out. A good sign this is happening is if there is a lot of plastic shavings by the geared extruder. (if it can't melt then it stalls and the extruder shaves the plastic)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2146" LastActivityDate="2016-10-12T19:22:42.803" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2884" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-10-12T22:17:12.497" Score="8" ViewCount="410" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am new to 3D printing. I have just put together my own 3D printer with some help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was advised I shouldn't print directly onto the aluminium plate - I assume it's aluminium.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The manufacturer did give me a piece of matrix board (i.e. no cooper at all) to print on. Will this work well?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If glass is better, does it have to cover the entire bed? My bed is 275 mm deep by 220 mm wide. I'm struggling to find glass for it that will come within the next few days.  The only custom cut was on eBay and it's going to take over a week to arrive.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4408" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2017-02-14T05:34:21.820" LastActivityDate="2019-07-05T07:42:33.363" Title="Does the printing substrate have to be glass? If so, what size?" Tags="|build-plate|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2885" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2884" CreationDate="2016-10-13T05:52:32.813" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Printing on glass is very common because it is very flat and leaves a very smooth finish on the bottom of prints. The perfboard will also work fine, but is not an as common choice because prints are harder to remove from it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Printing directly onto the heater PCB is uncommon since it is usually not flat enough and you may damage it while removing the print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastActivityDate="2016-10-13T05:52:32.813" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2886" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2809" CreationDate="2016-10-13T08:09:11.567" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Prusa i3 and the same case happened to me. I checked the continuity of the wires and discovered one badly soldered wire in the heated bed. After soldering the wire correctly, the heated bed turned on again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your problem is in all likelihood the continuity of the wires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope that I helped you with your case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3764" LastEditorUserId="854" LastEditDate="2016-11-26T02:13:11.987" LastActivityDate="2016-11-26T02:13:11.987" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2888" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-10-13T14:25:26.643" Score="1" ViewCount="184" Body="&lt;p&gt;What are the possibilities of building a 3D printer which uses a cartridge-style material filling rather than the conventional extruder setup? The idea of the cartridge is to eliminate the necessity of taking the material in spool form. My aim is to build a 3d printer which can take materials either in the form of pellets or any other shape. The materials that I want to work with are COC(Cyclic olefin copolymer) and polycarbonates.I have these materials in pellets so need to design an extruder and hot end setup which can directly use these and print . currently I have a Lulzbot Kittaz 3d printer with a single extruder( hexagonal end).  Any suggestions where should I start?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4544" LastEditorUserId="4544" LastEditDate="2016-10-19T16:05:18.993" LastActivityDate="2016-10-19T16:05:18.993" Title="3D printer with a cartridge" Tags="|filament|extruder|3d-design|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="5" ClosedDate="2016-10-17T07:08:38.157" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2889" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2884" CreationDate="2016-10-13T23:35:18.857" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Obviously being in a rush can limit your options, but here are a few thoughts:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Quick solutions:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Blue painters tape&lt;/strong&gt; (as Carl mentioned) will work directly on your heated bed...assuming it's a flat piece of aluminum with the heating element under it.  Your surface does need to be flat.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Acrylic plate&lt;/strong&gt; will work but is best with no heat, or low heat.  PLA sticks to it.  It's easy to cut and easy to find at local hardware stores.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Scrap glass&lt;/strong&gt; is fairly easy to find for free and it's &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/cfdrgrOH50Y&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;not that hard&lt;/a&gt; to cut...or buy some at your local hardware store and have them cut it.  Just be careful, it's sharp. You can sand the sharp edges (wet sandpaper) to make it safer.  &lt;strong&gt;No, it doesn't have to cover the whole plate, but obviously covering the whole plate would normally be preferred.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Better (but not as fast) solutions:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Buy some custom tempered glass.&lt;/strong&gt;  I like &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.onedayglass.com/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;One Day Glass&lt;/a&gt; because they're fast and very capable.  Like Tom says, many many people print on glass because it's nice and flat and stiff.  It's also easy to clean and holds up well.  You can print on the bare glass with many materials or use various preparations like PVA (glue stick or white glue diluted with water are popular), hairspray, or others.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Touch Screen Glass:&lt;/strong&gt; Some people like replacement glass for tablets or touch screens because it has a hardened scratch-resistant surface.  I've not tried it, but if you can find one that is the right size, it might be worth a shot.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Specialty products:&lt;/strong&gt; There are many many print bed products out there that promise an easier/better printing experience.  I've used a few that are okay...definitely better than blue painters tape, but I much prefer my current favorite...&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;My current favorite is PEI.&lt;/strong&gt; Use a 3M 468MP adhesive sheet (it handles the heat well) to stick a thin sheet PEI (also sold under brand name Ultem) on top of your glass plate.  I got this idea from Lulzbot and it's what they use on all of their printers.  It works beautifully.  Common filaments stick to it while it's hot and release easily while it's cool.  For other filaments I just use PVA like I would over glass.  For material printing tips and settings that work well on PEI beds, check out Lulzbot's site.  When it starts wearing out or getting scuffed up, I just sand it with fine sandpaper and I'm good to go for another hundred prints or so.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4483" LastActivityDate="2016-10-13T23:35:18.857" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2890" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2872" CreationDate="2016-10-13T23:46:46.850" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Tough set of requirements and definately pushing into the professional domain.  I would recommend checking out &lt;strong&gt;ULTEM 1010 Resin&lt;/strong&gt; which is similar to PEEK but has a higher glass transition temp of 215&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C.  &lt;a href=&quot;http://usglobalimages.stratasys.com/Main/Files/Material_Spec_Sheets/MSS_FDM_ULTEM1010.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Check out the spec sheet from Stratsys.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope this helps.  :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4483" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-07-01T11:21:06.003" LastActivityDate="2019-07-01T11:21:06.003" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="2892" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2894" CreationDate="2016-10-14T00:54:25.423" Score="7" ViewCount="548" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a QIDI Tech 1. It has a heated bed, and a cooling fan attachment. Whenever I print without a raft, the first inch or two of material laid down does not adhere to the bed, but the rest of the first layer is flawless.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have tried speeding up and slowing down the first layer walls, but the problem remains. It also seemed to get a little worse when slower. I also tried not turning on the cooling fan for a bit to see if maybe the material was cooling too quickly, but that had zero effect on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd like to avoid using tape and other methods since the rest of the print is perfect, and the bed already has a material on it to aid adhesion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What else can I try to prevent the dragging for the start of the print?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4548" LastActivityDate="2016-10-14T01:12:33.650" Title="Poor adhesion only for first couple of inches" Tags="|pla|adhesion|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2893" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2822" CreationDate="2016-10-14T01:04:43.477" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I see three options...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;1. Print with a flexible filament:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Many options: TPU as you pointed out, the flexible PLA that Tom mentioned, and others.  Here's an article with a few options from &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprintingindustry.com/news/which-flexible-3d-printing-filament-should-you-choose-61961/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Matter Hackers&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I'd suggest printing the stamp side down so you get a nice flat stamp with no post processing.  For any wide gaps, mind your bridging...use fillets or chamfers so the &quot;roof&quot; of the gap is an upside down V or U shape.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;2. Print with any hard filament, but use a rubber mat under the paper.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The idea here is to use a semi-flexible surface under the paper to help get uniform contact pressure between the paper and the hard stamp.  As long as your stamp holds ink, this should work okay.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;3. Print your stamp shape, then use it to make a rubber stamp.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Making a model and then copying it with your desired non-printable material is a common manufacturing technique that can be used in many situations.  Use of molds for casting and related processes can really expand your possibilities.  Check out &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.smooth-on.com/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Smooth On&lt;/a&gt;.  They have several rubber and flexible compounds that you could use for stamps.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4483" LastActivityDate="2016-10-14T01:04:43.477" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2894" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2892" CreationDate="2016-10-14T01:11:06.723" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've had this problem in the past with a Flux Delta printer. The first attempt to resolve it was to always use a brim along with a raft. The brim will often have settings to allow number of passes as well as number of layers. If you are not using the brim to provide adhesion, you still can use it to prime the nozzle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Later versions of the software allowed for start g-code which moved the nozzle to the edge of the print area and extruded 10-40 mm of filament, also providing for priming the nozzle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You've not noted what slicer you are using. You may find there are suitable locations to position the head to an unused area, run a few mm of filament, then begin your print. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Amazon Q&amp;amp;A says your printer accepts g-code, which implies the slicer generates same. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In combination with a brim, you may have your solution. I've also found that you have a heated bed. If you have a cold spot on the bed, adhesion may be a problem, although I think that is not the case, based on your description.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastActivityDate="2016-10-14T01:11:06.723" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2895" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2892" CreationDate="2016-10-14T01:12:33.650" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;I'd recommend using the &quot;skirt&quot; function&lt;/strong&gt; if you're not already.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The idea is to print a few perimeter layers around where your part will be, but not actually touching your part.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most slicers support this and you can choose how much skirt you want to print.  This addresses the issue you mention, and it purges old filament that has spent too much time in the nozzle.  As an added bonus, it gives you a good indication that your print location, print height, and first layer adhesion are all good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4483" LastActivityDate="2016-10-14T01:12:33.650" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2896" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1547" CreationDate="2016-10-14T02:05:08.503" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think this will work for you...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Laser Printer Image Transfer:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Print reverse image with &lt;strong&gt;color laser printer&lt;/strong&gt; on &lt;strong&gt;regular paper.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Apply Mod Podge or artist arcylic or artist matte gel to the 3d printed surface.  You may need to sand it first to get it nice and smooth.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Apply same to picture and put picture, face down, onto the surface that you're transferring to.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Let dry.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wash and rub off paper with water.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Apply protective clear coat...polyurethane or some other waterproof sealer.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;...&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Profit&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This method has been popular in the DIY craft world for years so you should be able to google around for more tips.  My wife transferred pictures onto coasters this way...pretty easy.  Also, since paper is flexible, I think this would work on a simple curve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps.  :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4483" LastActivityDate="2016-10-14T02:05:08.503" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2897" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-10-14T08:52:27.773" Score="6" ViewCount="1178" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a roll of Prima PETG, I like the strength but I am having a few issues - the outside perimeter of the first layer often breaks away as a loose string (so it's not bonding with the second layer or perimeter next to it), small areas tend to go gloopy and also bridging is very poor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Have you suffered from these issues with PETG and if so how have you gotten around them?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="466" LastEditorUserId="115" LastEditDate="2016-10-19T06:05:53.397" LastActivityDate="2016-11-20T16:42:55.333" Title="Poor first layer bonding and bridging issues with Prima PETG" Tags="|filament|pet|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2898" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="599" CreationDate="2016-10-14T18:42:57.347" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I do not think the 5&lt;sup&gt;th&lt;/sup&gt; generation is a reliable product. I think you are best going with the older Rep 2 - that printer is by far the best. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Makerbot jumped the ship and released the 5&lt;sup&gt;th&lt;/sup&gt; generation before it was ready due to pressure from the board. Love the Rep 2 - by far the best printer out there. This is because if the extruder gets clogged you can easily fix it. With the 5&lt;sup&gt;th&lt;/sup&gt; generation you will either have to send in the extruder for repairs or buy a new one completely. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4558" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2017-05-05T22:12:05.663" LastActivityDate="2017-05-05T22:12:05.663" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2899" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2833" CreationDate="2016-10-15T16:15:39.373" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The solution was a combination of several items.  The primary one was slowing down the top layer of the print significantly.  I was using 3200 mm/min for the print and used the option 'solid fill underspeed' to slow down the top layers to 40%.  I increased the top layers to 7.  I also increased the infill, to ensure there was support in the tiny top pieces.  I also decreased the minimum infill length to 0 to ensure the infill went in tiny places.  Finally, I used the 'Concentric' external fill pattern.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At some rotations of the model, I had slight gaps in the corners of the model, increasing the number of outline layers fixed it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also decreased the temp to 160 compared to the initial print above.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ApjNq.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ApjNq.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Castle piece&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4378" LastActivityDate="2016-10-15T16:15:39.373" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2900" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2901" CreationDate="2016-10-16T19:29:07.013" Score="5" ViewCount="27605" Body="&lt;p&gt;can PLA be used to print out containers or other parts that are in direct contact with gasoline, diesel or other hard chemical substances? Will it start degrading when in contact with said chemicals? Should I use ABS for this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4580" LastActivityDate="2016-10-17T02:02:26.463" Title="is PLA gasoline, diesel or chemical resistant?" Tags="|pla|abs|print-material|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2901" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2900" CreationDate="2016-10-17T02:02:26.463" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have used both ABS and PLA for diesel gas caps and oil plugs.  As well have made a gasoline funnel out of both.   Both have done well for me.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I have attach a link to a plastics resistance chart if it is any help.  Unfortunately it does not show testing for ABS for all.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I prefer the ABS only do to the fact some items I have made sit in the desert sun.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.plasticsintl.com/plastics_chemical_resistence_chart.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Plastic resistance chart&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3986" LastActivityDate="2016-10-17T02:02:26.463" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2902" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="975" CreationDate="2016-10-17T02:38:27.803" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;THHN&lt;/strong&gt; wire is thermoplastic high heat-resistant nylon coated wire.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;THWN&lt;/strong&gt; is thermoplastic heat- and moisture-resistant nylon coated wire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&quot;T&quot;&lt;/strong&gt; stands for thermoplastic insulation covering the wire itself.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;&quot;H&quot;&lt;/strong&gt; stands for a heat resistance of the insulation max 167°F.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;&quot;HH&quot;&lt;/strong&gt; stands for a heat resistance, but increased max 194°F.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;&quot;W&quot;&lt;/strong&gt; is for moisture resistant.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;&quot;N&quot;&lt;/strong&gt; is for a nylon coating make the insulation oil and gas resistant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my opinion the Wire Storehouse is good for simple stuff, but I would not use it for something I consider important.   It's quality is poor on the insulation rating and the number of strands is low.  Higher strands number allows for more flexible wire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you get high end audiophile type speaker wire it could be considered as you can find high strand number with good quality insulation properties in heavier gauges. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or your local auto parts store will carry 8 and 6 gauge wire with better insulation properties.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3986" LastActivityDate="2016-10-17T02:38:27.803" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2903" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2907" CreationDate="2016-10-17T05:36:23.760" Score="10" ViewCount="1531" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am planning on building a large enclosed (Cartesian XY-Head) 3d printer. I want to keep the inital build time minimal and it is very likely I would need to build the ~50x50cm heatbed from scratch, because it doesn't exist in ebay.&#xA;The enclosure itself is not separately heated, but depends on waste heat from the printing process. The enclosure will eventually be vented outdoors with a 12V CPU vent via ducting (air flow unknown).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do I even need a heated print bed, when I am planning to only print PLA? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4580" LastActivityDate="2016-10-17T14:22:43.890" Title="Do I need a heated bed for printing PLA in an enclosed printer?" Tags="|pla|build-plate|heated-bed|enclosure|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2904" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5392" CreationDate="2016-10-17T06:18:24.220" Score="4" ViewCount="4751" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is this great hotend called a &lt;a href=&quot;http://reprap.org/wiki/Diamond_Hotend#Benefits_of_this_design&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;diamond hotend&lt;/a&gt;, which can be used to print in 3 colors and mix them into hundreds? of colors. This can for example be used with Red, Green and Blue filament to mix a RGB palette. They don't have to be these colors, but I believe RGB would give the maximum range of colors when constrained to 3.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However true RGB in physical printing would use separate colored &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Voxel&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;voxels&lt;/a&gt; to create the appearance of a color, just like monitors display colors. As far as I know only HP Jet Fusion 3D printer uses this process, but it uses a process vastly different from normal diy 3D FDM printers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;CMYK is mixed physically like you would mix watercolors together to make new colors. It is used for printing on paper by &lt;strong&gt;all&lt;/strong&gt; laserjet and inkjet printers (and in printing presses).&#xA;So that means even the 3 input diamond hotend is actually mixed like CMYK. Repetier firmware v92.9 has this built in with support up to 16 inputs for a nozzle, but Marlin firmware v1.0.x only supports 4 inputs per nozzle at this time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using RGB for the 3 inputs of a hotend, means the printing color palette lacks White and also it seems that CMYK would give a bigger range of colors. That brings our tally to 4 inputs. It still needs a white filament to print white, so that means 5 inputs. And while we are at it, probably a 6th input would be useful: like for printing black infill (to save using CMYK to mix into black) or for using transparent filament or elastic filament.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So why isn't there a nozzle with 5-6 inputs already? Could it be done? Are there such hotends already?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;P.S These are just theoretical assumptions. I just discovered 3D printing and I am in the planning phase of building my first 3D printer, so I am a total n00b in this. Please correct any assumptions I got wrong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4580" LastEditorUserId="4580" LastEditDate="2016-10-17T06:29:29.853" LastActivityDate="2018-02-04T07:18:21.727" Title="true color printing with CMYK+White (not 3-in-1 diamond head RGB)" Tags="|printer-building|hotend|nozzle|extrusion|color|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2905" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2906" CreationDate="2016-10-17T09:15:49.573" Score="4" ViewCount="3336" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have wired in a new extruder with its own cooling fan and I tried to change the Marlin firmware to switch it on automatically above a specific temperature (50&amp;nbsp;°C).&#xA;I did noting in the Configuration.h&#xA;I changed a line in the Configuration_adv.h&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;from&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#define EXTRUDER_0_AUTO_FAN_PIN   -1&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;to&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#define EXTRUDER_0_AUTO_FAN_PIN   8&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;as described in this &lt;a href=&quot;http://3dprintboard.com/showthread.php?10981-Some-useful-info-about-the-Hotend-cooling-fan-and-RUMBA&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;article&lt;/a&gt;.&#xA;But the fan is not starting when I bring the temperature above 50&amp;nbsp;°C (manually). However it starts if I switch the fan on manually from Repetier.&#xA;Am I missing something? How do I control the fan automatically on &lt;code&gt;FAN0&lt;/code&gt; output when the temperature  reached the set limit?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4388" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-07-05T22:01:57.737" LastActivityDate="2019-07-05T22:01:57.737" Title="Marlin (on RUMBA board) switch extruder fan automatically" Tags="|marlin|cooling|fans|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="2906" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2905" CreationDate="2016-10-17T12:15:47.640" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The RUMBA board has two fan outputs. The primary fan output is switched by pin 7, the secondary one by pin 8. The reason your fan is not working when you set &lt;code&gt;#define EXTRUDER_0_AUTO_FAN_PIN 8&lt;/code&gt; is because it's switching the secondary fan. If you switch the wires over to the secondary fan output it will work correctly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do want to use the primary fan output then you can achieve this by setting &lt;code&gt;#define EXTRUDER_0_AUTO_FAN_PIN 7&lt;/code&gt; but you will need to search for the &lt;code&gt;#define FAN 8&lt;/code&gt; in the appropriate pins.h file and change &lt;code&gt;8&lt;/code&gt; to something else (-1 or 7, for example).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would recommend the first solution, because you should have a controllable print cooling fan, and an automatic extruder cooling fan.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastActivityDate="2016-10-17T12:15:47.640" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2907" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2903" CreationDate="2016-10-17T14:22:43.890" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The answer is &quot;No&quot; you don't &lt;em&gt;need&lt;/em&gt; a heated bed for PLA but it does make the base layer a little easier to lay down and also helps with print removal post print. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PLA is a very easy filament to work with and the majority of PLA printers don't come with heated beds and suggest blue tape and/or elmers glue. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may find that if you are purchasing very cheap/poorly extruded PLA, that things don't stick as well and a heated bed can alleviate some of these issues. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4589" LastActivityDate="2016-10-17T14:22:43.890" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2908" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2904" CreationDate="2016-10-17T15:05:32.883" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You may be a bit misled here. First of all, you do &lt;strong&gt;not&lt;/strong&gt; want &quot;RGB&quot; , as those are additive colors such as used when combining light sources.  You &lt;strong&gt;do&lt;/strong&gt; want &quot;RYB&quot; (red-yellow-blue) or the more accurate CMY(plus K just to get a 'truer' black)  for subtractive colors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next, there's really no reason to attempt pixel-mixing. What should happen, ideally, is that pigments get fully mixed upon extrusion so that the desired color is actually in place. Pretty much any pixel-based setup will not &quot;blend&quot; into the desired visual perception.  And as you propose, you really need a White and a Black to adjust the saturation (take a look at the Wikipedia pages on Hue and Saturation color maps).&lt;br&gt;&#xA;So I'm not convinced that separate extrusion heads will ever get you a decent color continuum.  I don't know if anyone has, or is planning, a multi-input, single-output head but I'd sure like one. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2191" LastActivityDate="2016-10-17T15:05:32.883" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2909" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2915" CreationDate="2016-10-17T15:24:18.113" Score="3" ViewCount="3714" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the hot-end is at ~0 on the Z axis and I go to level it, as it approaches X = 0 it begins scraping along the bed, then when moving back to probe the center of the bed (after homing X to 0) it will scrape the bed again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to add a glass plate but am worried this aggressive homing will smash the glass. How can I fix it? The printer auto-levels and runs Marlin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1929" LastActivityDate="2016-12-09T14:12:55.747" Title="When leveling hotend always slams into bed?" Tags="|marlin|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2910" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-10-17T15:51:21.283" Score="7" ViewCount="606" Body="&lt;p&gt;In 4D printing technology or by means usage of Shape-memory alloy (non-metal, iron based, copper based or NiTi material) for 3D printing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any software simulation tool which I can use to simulate this material change behavior with respect to time?  For example, when introducing a change in humidity or temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: It would be best if the simulation tools targeted automotive parts (power train, cooling system, interior &amp;amp; exterior etc.).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4591" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2021-04-05T16:44:15.770" LastActivityDate="2021-04-05T16:44:15.770" Title="Simulation tool software for 4D Printing" Tags="|3d-models|3d-design|material|print-material|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="2911" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2910" CreationDate="2016-10-17T17:43:54.480" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am going to say that this probably is a whole dimension out of scope for this group ;-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said this new type of 3d printing is still at the University level. Also 4d is not necessarily 3d printing related at all. All it has to be is self assembling. Like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.selfassemblylab.net/4DPrinting.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.selfassemblylab.net/4DPrinting.php&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unless you have a connect with MIT. Then you aren't going to be simulating any 4d models.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But if you HAD to do this, then you should write a paper about it and become a researcher. You could get published. You might need a PHD in material science. There might be some simulation in solid works.. but I would say you are mostly on your own and have to develop the models as they simply do not exist, especially outside of academia and stratasys.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said if you take the &amp;quot;4d&amp;quot; part and use models based on the current understanding of the raw material you would have more success.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2146" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2021-04-05T08:18:49.060" LastActivityDate="2021-04-05T08:18:49.060" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="2912" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2909" CreationDate="2016-10-17T17:50:58.057" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sounds like you need a different sensor? You have a lot of issues from the sounds of it. Also no code so cannot comment on your settings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it always scrapes the bed (sorry but its really unclear what is going on) then lower your sensor a bit.. Best I can give you with the provided info.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2146" LastActivityDate="2016-10-17T17:50:58.057" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2913" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2925" CreationDate="2016-10-17T20:24:48.030" Score="6" ViewCount="782" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm working on designing a 3d printer with a team. The team is using marlin open source software and I started half way into project trying to make sense of things. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Apparently there is an issue with the wheels moving the print head and it always moves a few mm short in the of the desired position. Can some one tell me which part of the marlin code interprets the G-code file and controls movement? I'm thinking of increasing the distance in the x and y axis to correct this (seemingly) minor problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4593" LastEditorUserId="4593" LastEditDate="2016-10-17T20:33:19.920" LastActivityDate="2016-10-19T01:49:35.803" Title="Editing arc in Marlin for 3d printing" Tags="|marlin|g-code|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2914" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2909" CreationDate="2016-10-18T07:04:35.777" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Marlin has a &lt;code&gt;Z_RAISE_BETWEEN_PROBINGS&lt;/code&gt; setting that allows you to, well, raise the Z-axis before it moves to the next probe point. Increasing this value may solve the issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Auto leveling only compensates for skew of the bed, but it doesn't compensate for a non-planar bed. If your bed is bowed (apparently you're not using glass yet, so I assume you have a plain PCB which is quite susceptible to this) and due to this is higher in some spots than others, then the auto leveling may cause the hotend to scrape the high spots of the bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastActivityDate="2016-10-18T07:04:35.777" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2915" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2909" CreationDate="2016-10-18T07:50:18.823" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I realised the simplest fix for this shortly after posting the question. In either your slicer or your printer controller (I use octoprint, so I added this there) add to the starting G-code something to lift the head so that it is above the point it is scraping across.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, change your starting G-code from something like:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;G28 ;Home all axis&#xA;G29 ;probe bed&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;G91 ;Set to relative positioning&#xA;G0 Z10 ;move head up by 10mm&#xA;&#xA;G28 ;Home all axis&#xA;G29 ;probe bed&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(obviously remove G29 if you do not have a probe)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;10mm should be more than enough to lift by unless you have something seriously wrong, but you can adjust the figure as needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1929" LastActivityDate="2016-10-18T07:50:18.823" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2916" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2919" CreationDate="2016-10-18T11:21:17.437" Score="13" ViewCount="2620" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have my nozzle close to the substrate that I am printing on, so that a piece of paper can just about slide underneath it freely, without catching.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this the right way to do it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4408" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2017-02-14T05:31:33.313" LastActivityDate="2017-02-14T05:31:33.313" Title="How close should the nozzle be to the substrate?" Tags="|nozzle|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2917" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2916" CreationDate="2016-10-18T12:22:06.940" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Using a piece of paper won't guarantee you get exactly the &quot;correct&quot; height (because different papers have different thicknesses, and it's hard to determine exactly when it no longer catches on the nozzle) but it gets the bed level and the distance will be close to correct.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can then further adjust the height by observing the first layer and making adjustments based on whether you see the first layer being squished down enough or too much. The babystepping feature (if enabled) is very useful for this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastActivityDate="2016-10-18T12:22:06.940" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2919" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2916" CreationDate="2016-10-18T12:55:53.293" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Traditionally, using a piece of paper (about 0.004&quot; thick) gets you close to your appropriate standoff. However, if you adjust your layer thickness, your standoff should reflect this. Ideally, you will set your standoff &lt;strong&gt;roughly&lt;/strong&gt; with a piece of paper or other type of shim stock, then &quot;fine-tune&quot; the standoff during a benchmark print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I'm remembering correctly, the ideal standoff is 1/2 to 2/3 your desired layer height.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="98" LastActivityDate="2016-10-18T12:55:53.293" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2920" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2916" CreationDate="2016-10-18T15:52:57.200" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I may, I'll recommend heartily joining (or peeking at) the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.facebook.com/groups/1068531466501015/?ref=bookmarks&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Reprap&lt;/a&gt;  group on Facebook.  They have a bunch of 'help' files there, including one on how to level the bed. In particular, it suggests doing the final height setting and levelling at the intended operating temperature so as to avoid any thermal expansion &quot;surprises.&quot;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One inherent problem is that the stock limit switches are terrible for position repeatability. Well, not 'terrible,' but enough slop that the first layer or two may be a bit too close to the bed in some circumstances. I'd recommend at the least making sure the Z-stop is locked down good and tight once set, and then if you want to get more precise, look into other proximity or opto-sensors. I haven't done that yet so don't have any specific recommendations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2191" LastActivityDate="2016-10-18T15:52:57.200" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2921" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2924" CreationDate="2016-10-18T22:32:58.637" Score="17" ViewCount="11654" Body="&lt;p&gt;What are the methods to auto eject parts (into a collection area/box/basket) in order for the 3D printer to continue printing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For some reason this feature isn't common (yet?). Is there a hidden reason why?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will using the print head to ram the part off the build plate into a basket nearby cause the print head to misalign (if using belts).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am planning to use a Cartesian XY-Head type (like CoreXY) printer, where the build plate moves along the Z axis and XY axes are on the ceiling of the printer using belts to move the print head.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4580" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-07-12T11:02:21.690" LastActivityDate="2018-07-12T11:02:21.690" Title="Printed part auto-eject (automatic part removal)" Tags="|printer-building|build-plate|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="2922" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2921" CreationDate="2016-10-18T22:56:54.977" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;From the standpoint of a hobbyist user with a mid-range machine, my answer is based on the model release from the build plate. With a heated clean glass plate, my model will &lt;em&gt;almost&lt;/em&gt; always release once the plate has cooled. The &quot;almost&quot; aspect means that if you want to use the print head to push the model clear, you will be confronted with a stuck model occasionally.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The amount of force applied by the head may be enough to release a stuck model, but &quot;may be&quot; is not going to be sufficient. Especially with a core-xy system (used by my Emblaser laser engraver), you can either toss a belt or cause a stepper motor skipping. More powerful motors will reduce the skipping possibility, but not the belt jump problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could consider to add one additional motor with a sweep arm, geared in such a manner as to provide the necessary torque, along with a force sensor to register a model stuck so badly as to be impossible to dislodge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your g-code would be written to lower the bed to the appropriate location to allow the sweep arm to operate, while the force sensor would be tied into the pause/stop circuit of your controller.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some controllers already have the ability to manage an additional motor, as some are manufactured to provide for dual extrusion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If such unattended operation is going to be a requirement, you'd also want some form of aborting a failing or failed print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastActivityDate="2016-10-18T22:56:54.977" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2924" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2921" CreationDate="2016-10-19T01:20:44.123" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;While the &quot;best&quot; method is probably unanswerable since it would be based on very specific requirements and subject to change as soon as a better method were devised, here are some feasible methods to auto-eject 3d printed parts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some of these are methods that I've considered for my personal use, others have been mentioned by others and added for helpful reference.  Some have been done, others have not (I think), but all of them are feasible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Scrolling Conveyor-type Bed:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In this concept, parts become dislodged from the print surface as it is deformed around a roller in the process of scrolling to the next position.  Scrolling bed designs must make allowances to prevent parts from lifting up the bed material which becomes an issue especially with warp-prone materials.  Note: This is the basis of the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4056&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Automated Build Platform&lt;/a&gt; (ABP) originally designed (as far as I can tell) by Charles Pax and later covered in several patents by Makerbot Industries.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Deforming Bed:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In this concept, the bed is mechanically deformed when the part removal temperature has been reached.  This deformation dislodges the part which can then be easily swept off of the bed by an arm or similar mechanism.  (As far as I know, this concept has not yet been demonstrated.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Articulated Segmented Bed:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In this concept, the bed is comprised of several strips. Slightly lowering a portion (let's say half) of the strips would separate them from the part, then slightly raising that portion would separate the part from the remaining strips.  (As far as I know, this concept has not yet been demonstrated.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Eject and Replace Bed:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;This method ejects the entire bed surface along with the finished parts and then receives a fresh print surface for the next print.  This method would likely still require intervention to remove parts from used print surfaces and then return them to the clean stack. (As far as I know, this concept has not yet been demonstrated.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Plow:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;This method mentioned by Fred_dot_u and AllanL uses a specially designed plow arm to sweep parts off the bed between prints.  This method has been effectively demonstrated in &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x-5-a2NN2Vk&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;this video&lt;/a&gt; by New Valance Robotics Corporation that was mentioned by AllanL (thanks!).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Issues using print head to eject parts:&lt;/strong&gt;  While this method has been tried, and demonstrated (see below), it has some challenges/drawbacks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Typical FDM/FFF 3d printers are not designed to apply significant force behind print head movements.  While a printer designed specifically for this purpose could be built, using a typical printer in this way is extremely likely to cause the stepper motors to loose steps and result in loss of position accuracy unless parts separate very easily. (however, position could easily be regained by zeroing via limit switches between prints.)  &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;In addition to skipping steps, mechanical issues such as ratcheting/skipping belts or unwanted frame movement could result from even moderately stuck prints.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Examples of pushing or ramming parts off of bed:&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;While using various parts of the printer to push parts off of the bed may not be an ideal solution, it may be an adequate solution for specific circumstances.  Here are a few demonstrations of the &quot;ramming&quot; method.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Ramming parts off with frame and moving bed &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gnme8Tx00bg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;like this.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Ramming part with robust print head &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-LcDqVwJYvo&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;like this.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Ramming easy to remove part with print head &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1jgEx-ICjwA&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;like this.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Interesting question.  I hope this helps!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4483" LastEditorUserId="4483" LastEditDate="2016-10-19T20:33:05.417" LastActivityDate="2016-10-19T20:33:05.417" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2925" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2913" CreationDate="2016-10-19T01:49:35.803" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since your team is designing a printer, you'll have to do some basic calculations to figure out your x and y axis &lt;strong&gt;steps per millimeter&lt;/strong&gt; and then set them in your firmware.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a decent primer in the basic idea, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VIHgDiCCY0Y&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this video&lt;/a&gt; is a good start.  For another decent getting started summary check &lt;a href=&quot;http://solidutopia.com/marlin-firmware-user-guide-basic/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this blog post&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, since you're using Marlin, become very familiar with the Marlin Firmware and how to configure it.  &lt;strong&gt;The setting you want to change exists in the configuration.h file.&lt;/strong&gt;  Documentation is included in the file, but you can find good information &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/wiki/Marlin-Configuration&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; in the Marlin Configuration instructions within the Marlin Firmware Github repo.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope this helps!  :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4483" LastActivityDate="2016-10-19T01:49:35.803" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2926" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2745" CreationDate="2016-10-19T02:16:49.217" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your question &lt;strong&gt;may&lt;/strong&gt; be useful to people interested in 3d printing (the purpose of this SE Site) so, even though you're not asking a 3d printing question per se, I think this answer will be helpful...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;GRBL:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;GRBL is a well known and mature g-code interpreter that will run on an Arduino Uno and is free and open source.  &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/grbl/grbl/wiki&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Check it out here.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope this helps!  :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4483" LastEditorUserId="4483" LastEditDate="2016-10-21T04:30:27.043" LastActivityDate="2016-10-21T04:30:27.043" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2927" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2741" CreationDate="2016-10-19T02:47:38.603" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your title says &quot;x-axis&quot; but your description leads me to think that your extruder is the part that's not working.  Here are some tips which may (or may not) help...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Make sure your extruder is not clogged.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Make sure your temperature setting is high enough to allow the filament to melt quickly enough to support your print speed.  If your extruder stepper is getting very hot, you may be pushing it too hard.  Modern stepper drivers have various protections that will cause them to shut down in this situation. (Over current or thermal shutdown being the most likely in this case)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you swap stepper motors and swap stepper drivers and the issue stays with your extruder, look for other things that you haven't swapped.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You haven't swapped the extruder, so the problem could be there as I mentioned above.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you haven't swapped wires, the problem could be there...I've struggled through troubleshooting many times because of intermittent connections in wires.  Since 3d printers have moving wires, this is a prime suspect in older machines.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rule out all of the easy and cheap stuff before you conclude that it must be the main board...it could be, but it's probably not.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Seek help in the Ultimaker forums or with their technical support.  Printers, like cars, tend to have certain things that are more prone to failure as the machines get old and worn.  The Ultimaker techs will know these things and can help you pin down your issue.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck!  I hope you solve your issue and that this answer is helpful.  :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4483" LastActivityDate="2016-10-19T02:47:38.603" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2928" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2909" CreationDate="2016-10-19T07:50:52.027" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You need an offset to protect your XY movements for Z=0 even if the plate is planar or angled; for example my sensor is made for 10mm height from plate but measures 4mm due the plate is aluminum. The nozzle needs to be at least 1mm or 2mm below the sensor level. If I adjust the nozzle at 4mm or more this will be scratch the plate if any level variation on bed exist.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I set an offset and Z safe movement on Auto homming, adding 3 or 4mm. When I press AutoHome the nozzle rise up to the safety level even if the nozzle is touching the bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You don´t need the Z=0 to start printing, when you Use the code G29 the printer will check the predefined test points to get the right Z=0 according the angled plate; if your plate is warped you will need a lot of test points but is much better to change it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4454" LastActivityDate="2016-10-19T07:50:52.027" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2929" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2961" CreationDate="2016-10-19T07:51:10.950" Score="1" ViewCount="1187" Body="&lt;p&gt;With FFF printers able to manage only a small handful different colours (by using different filaments &amp;amp; extruders), how is it some SLS prints are able to be produced in such a broad range of colours?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are they sprayed post-production?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="241" LastEditorUserId="26" LastEditDate="2016-10-23T07:06:59.577" LastActivityDate="2016-10-23T14:56:05.253" Title="How are SLS printers able to print multiple colours?" Tags="|sls|color|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2016-10-23T15:03:26.533" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2930" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-10-19T08:33:29.357" Score="7" ViewCount="2988" Body="&lt;p&gt;I frequently have to print a range of different parts each with different geometrical features. So far, I generate each part's optimum printing parameters manually. To be able to print such parts more efficiently, I am planning to create a &quot;library&quot; of individual geometries, each with its unique set of optimum printing parameters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The issue I am facing here is in combining all the different geometrical features when slicing. (The geometrical features are individual STL files of different geometries). Slic3r does not seem to merge the meshes of adjoining or overlapping solids, making the joints between each different STL mechanically weak that can be snapped by hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wonder why such meshing is not possible. I realise that if each solid on the plater is assigned different printing parameters such as layer height or infill pattern/density, merging would not be possible, however if we keep such incompatible parameters constant for all solids, and only vary, say, printing speed and the number of perimeter shells, merging should still be possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is the only way to enable meshing of different STLs into a single solid by modifying the code of the slicer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you in advance!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4603" LastActivityDate="2017-06-05T20:55:59.170" Title="Slic3r mesh merging" Tags="|slic3r|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2931" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2933" CreationDate="2016-10-19T09:02:57.463" Score="8" ViewCount="4994" Body="&lt;p&gt;I did calibrate the extruder to extrude exactly 50/100 mm and it is fine.&#xA;I have replaced the old (prehistorical) extruder that was giving me the problem with a new one.&#xA;The issue does not go away. It is severely under extruded.&#xA;The nozzle is a 0.4 mm, if I extrude manually the extrusion is nice and clean but when printing its a mess.&#xA;I have the following setting in Slic3:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Layer height: 0,16&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;First layer height: 0,16&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Filament diameter: 2,94&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Extruder temperature: 184°C&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Extrusion multiplier: 1&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fill density: 15%&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In Marlin I have the following setting for the extruder:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Steps per unit: 1450 (I use micro steps)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Default acceleration: 3000&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Default retract acceleration: 3000&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Default Ejerk: 5&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I solve this problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2axcC.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2axcC.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a 20 mm cube I stopped after 15 layers!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is another 20 mm cube, the dimensions are perfect but is absolutely a mess.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zZTMq.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zZTMq.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4388" LastEditorUserId="4388" LastEditDate="2016-10-19T12:30:48.207" LastActivityDate="2016-10-20T11:04:37.390" Title="I am experiencing some severe under extrusion" Tags="|print-quality|extrusion|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2932" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2931" CreationDate="2016-10-19T10:48:42.417" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Looks to me like you have your slicer set to 3mm filament when you're using 1.75mm filament. Confirm that your slicer has its filament setting set to 1.75mm and not 3mm (this obviously assumes you are using 1.75mm filament..)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Failing this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Test extruder steps/mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ensure nozzle diameter is set correctly (usually doesnt make too much difference anyway...)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ensure extrusion multiplier is set correctly.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1929" LastActivityDate="2016-10-19T10:48:42.417" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2933" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2931" CreationDate="2016-10-19T12:57:39.800" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Assuming your filament dimension settings are correct and your extruder is correctly calibrated...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Your extruder temperature may be too low.&lt;/strong&gt;  While 184C can be hot enough, it is very near the bottom of the range for PLA and it appears your filament isn't melting quickly enough to keep up with your other settings.  Your extruder may even be running slightly cooler than you think so your 184C setting may actually be printing at 180C or less.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;To solve this:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Raise your extruder temperature.&lt;/strong&gt; I suggest raising your print temperature to 220 degrees and then gradually lower it until other aspects of your print quality are acceptable (bridging, oozing, etc).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Slow down your print.&lt;/strong&gt; Slowing down reduces the volume of melted plastic your extruder has to deliver in a given amount of time.  This allows more time for the plastic to melt and allows you to use a lower print temperature&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Your filament feed mechanism may be slipping.&lt;/strong&gt;  Even if you have adequate temperature and perfectly calibrated firmware and print settings, if your filament feed mechanism (the thing that pushes filament into your extruder) is slipping, you will have under-extruded parts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;To solve this:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Make sure you have adequate tension on your filament feed mechanism.&lt;/strong&gt;  If your feed mechanism is too loose, filament may slip and cause under extrusion.  The part to check is the part the pushes the filament into the rotating hobbed bolt or friction wheel...make sure it applies adequate pressure.  &quot;Adequate pressure&quot; or &quot;adequate tension&quot; will vary depending you your printer's design, but it should be enough to provide a firm grip on the filament.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Verify your feed mechanism is clean.&lt;/strong&gt;  A hobbed bolt or similar filament drive mechanism that has become clogged or otherwise contaminated may cause filament to slip and under-extrude.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Ensure the end of your filament is not damaged from slipping.&lt;/strong&gt;  Once your filament has slipped, it may be damaged with a worn spot, a bulge, or some other defect that can prevent proper feeding even after you fix the root cause of your problem.  So, as tbm0115 pointed out, be sure to clip off the damaged end to make sure you have good filament feeding into your extruder.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope this helps!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4483" LastEditorUserId="4483" LastEditDate="2016-10-20T04:18:30.490" LastActivityDate="2016-10-20T04:18:30.490" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2934" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2921" CreationDate="2016-10-19T15:38:07.340" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here's a wild idea.  Since you're planning to have a bed which only moves in the Z-axis, build a roller system which feeds a thin, flexible layer of some material (unobtanium, I fear) to cover the build plate. The feed rollers have a weak spring to provide some tension to keep this layer flat but not overly stretched while building the part.  When the part is done, lower the bed to zero while allowing the roller to retract excess parts of the sheet (rollers on both sides of the build plate will have to do this).  At zero, lock down the rollers and move the bed to some negative Z position, causing the overlay sheet to pop free of the bed and ideally pop the printed parts loose as well. &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XRhXu.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XRhXu.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;demo concept&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hey, it &quot;could&quot; work!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2191" LastActivityDate="2016-10-19T15:38:07.340" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2935" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2942" CreationDate="2016-10-19T18:31:17.103" Score="3" ViewCount="321" Body="&lt;p&gt;The local stores have started to stop selling filaments in the smaller 0.5 kg spools, and it's getting harder to maintain an assortment without buying lots of big spools.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I mainly just want a bunch of different colors (red, black, blue, green, etc.), ideally as a bunch of small spool &quot;samples&quot; or like a &quot;sampler pack&quot;. -- Even if they're at .25 kg spool sizes... -- I don't want to spend a ton of money on buying and storing a ton of 1.0kg - 2.0kg spools.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I prefer to print in PLA, but ABS is fine.  I can only print 1.75mm filament.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The seller should to be able to ship to western US, and have filament of decent quality that's not going to ruin my printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What do you recommend?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4472" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2018-09-16T12:23:28.123" LastActivityDate="2018-09-16T12:23:28.123" Title="Good sources of filament &quot;sampler&quot; pack?" Tags="|filament|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ClosedDate="2016-10-23T15:10:41.527" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2937" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2931" CreationDate="2016-10-20T06:56:47.333" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Short addition to the already great answers:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check whether the gear wheel on your extruder motor axle is spinning with the motor. It can seem to be quite fixed, but when under load the motor is turning nicely but the gear slips on its axle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="168" LastActivityDate="2016-10-20T06:56:47.333" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2938" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-10-20T09:43:17.483" Score="1" ViewCount="159" Body="&lt;p&gt;Where i can find DIY-project or tutorial for creating SLA printer for making models of jewelry?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4623" LastActivityDate="2016-10-20T11:02:09.457" Title="DIY SLA 3d printer for jewelry" Tags="|sla|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="4" ClosedDate="2016-10-23T15:02:34.200" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2942" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2935" CreationDate="2016-10-20T13:25:52.260" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B019PGZQO4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;psc=1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Amazon&lt;/a&gt;, of course.   I found a pack of 20 colors, maybe 50g each or so, 1.75 PLA. (that link is direct to this product).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;edit:&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Well, dang,  I blinked at that particular item is off the list.  Here are two other multicolor packages currently available (2PM EDT 20 Oct 2016)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://smile.amazon.com/Ladior-3D-Pen-Filament-Refills/dp/B01I40VQXW/ref=sr_1_3?s=industrial&amp;amp;ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1476986079&amp;amp;sr=1-3&amp;amp;keywords=1.75%20PLA%20multicolor&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;one&lt;/a&gt; , and  ...    &lt;a href=&quot;https://smile.amazon.com/Tictop-Printer-Filament-Refills-Environmentally/dp/B00ZTXWLP0/ref=sr_1_15?s=industrial&amp;amp;ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1476986079&amp;amp;sr=1-15&amp;amp;keywords=1.75%20PLA%20multicolor&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;two&lt;/a&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2191" LastEditorUserId="2191" LastEditDate="2016-10-20T17:57:37.463" LastActivityDate="2016-10-20T17:57:37.463" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2943" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2946" CreationDate="2016-10-20T22:15:52.923" Score="8" ViewCount="7730" Body="&lt;p&gt;First off - I'm rather new to this and I might be on the wrong track altogether...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm printing PLA using a simple DIY XYZ printer with a direct-driven extruder, 0.3 mm nozzle, 0.2 mm layer heights, using Slic3r. I've tried to calibrate the bed as level as I can. I believe the distance to be OK because the skirt prints in straight lines with no wobble.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While the overall results aren't that bad, I'm trying to improve the quality. I'm not happy with the first layer: While it sticks to the bed nicely, the printed strands are too far apart - there's a very noticeable gap between them that I can actually see the second layer through. There appears to be a problem with the second layer as well which always ends up too small (recessed). That's only the second layer, though - from the third layer on, that problem disappears. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I've tried so far:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;change the nozzle and/or bed temperature by 10-20 degrees up or down - no visible change&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;change the print speed (using the dial on the printer) - no noticeable change, especially when going slower&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;change the first layer extrusion width from 200% to 250% or 300% - that made the strands &quot;flatter&quot;, but also made Slic3r space out the strands so that I ended up with gaps again&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;increase the extrusion multiplier - that seemed to help the first layer, but lead to over extrusion further up, so I didn't pursue that any further&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;manually increased the flow setting for the first layer in the printer menu to 135 - that seems to do the trick, but I have to turn the setting back again on the second layer&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now - is this the right way to fix this or am I just patching over an entirely different problem that I just failed to diagnose properly? If it is the right way, how can I tell Slic3r to either change the flow rate / extrusion multiplier just for the first layer or increase the extrusion width without spacing the strands further apart?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4620" LastActivityDate="2016-10-21T09:23:19.363" Title="First (bottom) layer has gaps" Tags="|print-quality|slic3r|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2945" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2949" CreationDate="2016-10-21T07:13:56.203" Score="5" ViewCount="2608" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had a problem with my Z limit switch bracket falling just short of the bottom edge of the z stage. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to make the bracket thicker so it's pushed more towards the left. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) how do I measure the thickness of the bracket in the stl&#xA;2) HOw would I make it thicker if it is indeed too thin&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/U1iy4.gif&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/U1iy4.gif&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's might to be mounted standing up right. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to make it thicker x axis (if it's stood up)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4408" LastEditorUserId="4408" LastEditDate="2016-10-21T12:40:36.173" LastActivityDate="2016-10-22T00:17:04.533" Title="stl files -measuring stl files" Tags="|3d-models|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2946" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2943" CreationDate="2016-10-21T09:23:19.363" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can, in most slicers, set a separate extrusion multiplier for the first layer. This doesn't appear to be possible in slic3r, but there are a couple of ways to work around this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Change the Z offset (either in software or by adjusting the endstop). Bring the nozzle closer to the bed for the first layer. You can combine this with an increased first layer height. This is the most appropriate fix for your issue.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Use &lt;code&gt;M92 EX.XXX&lt;/code&gt; to increase the extruder steps/mm in the start G-code, then set it back to normal in the layer change code. This emulates increasing the extrusion multiplier for the first layer.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastActivityDate="2016-10-21T09:23:19.363" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2947" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2945" CreationDate="2016-10-21T12:05:51.697" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Consider to provide additional information regarding the software you use and the source information of the STL file. I will make some general suggestions that you can implement to resolve your problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Meshmixer is a free program that has the ability to measure overall dimensions as well as point-to-point locations within an STL model. Import the STL, select Analysis followed by Dimensions to get the overall information. For point to point, the interface is less intuitive and I would suggest a YouTube search for a tutorial.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Without seeing the part, I cannot suggest a specific sequence. If you are able to visualize the action of stretching the part in a single direction, Meshmixer also allows that:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Select Edit, Transform and note the three-axis tool which will appear in the model. Each arrow has a small box at the end. Grab the appropriate box with your mouse and move in the desired direction. It will stretch/distort the model on all surfaces in the direction you move. There will be a digital reference showing during this process, allowing you to more precisely set the increase in thickness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If there are holes in the same plane as the bracket you wish to thicken, they will become longer if on the same axis, or they will distort severely as you increase the thickness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can use Meshmixer to perform a plane cut to separate the model into individual parts to avoid undesired distortion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please provide an image of the model and an indication of the portion you wish to increase.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT after photo and some clarification. Your last line has valuable information. Thicker x axis if it's stood up implies thicker z axis in photo. That's the easiest location for that model. It would take me about 30 seconds to stretch it in Meshmixer. If you attempted it yourself, it might take you two or three minutes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I agree with the post by &quot;plaintoothpaste&quot; that it would be easier if you had the source file. I use OpenSCAD and adjustments are simply a matter of changing a number in a text file, while other software, for example, SolidWorks requires that you find the parameter and modify it to your requirements. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because of the shape of the model, the first reference I provided (Dimensions) would give you the thickness and as a bonus, you can change the number in that window to the desired figure. Export the model and you're done. Far simpler than using the transform tool, if not as much fun overall.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastEditorUserId="854" LastEditDate="2016-10-22T00:17:04.533" LastActivityDate="2016-10-22T00:17:04.533" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2948" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2897" CreationDate="2016-10-21T15:52:38.200" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Those are fairly common issues and you should be able to tweak your way into good prints.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;First layer perimeter bonding:&lt;/strong&gt; Slow down first layer to around 15mm/s with fan off to address that bonding issue.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Gloopy blobs:&lt;/strong&gt; To address the gloopy blobs, slow down to about 40mm/s or even less, and be sure to use wiping...also, maybe increase your retraction length.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Bridging:&lt;/strong&gt; Use full fan for better bridging...note that bridging PETG is just harder than many other filaments, but it can be done.  The reference below includes some more notes on bridging PETG successfully.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ideal settings will vary based on your printer, your environment, and the characteristics of your specific filament.  PETG can take some tweaking so don't be alarmed by the gloopy blobs, excessive stringing, and poor bridging, just plan to spend some time tweaking settings until you find a good balance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://forum.makergear.com/viewtopic.php?f=11&amp;amp;t=2593&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Here is a fairly good reference&lt;/a&gt; for further tweaking with PETG.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you'd like more help analyzing your print settings here, consider posting your current settings, your printer model, your ambient temperature, and pictures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope this helps!  :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4483" LastActivityDate="2016-10-21T15:52:38.200" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2949" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2945" CreationDate="2016-10-21T22:33:35.063" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have the original CAD file this would be far easier to modify and maintain then an STL.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://meshlab.sourceforge.net/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;MeshLab&lt;/a&gt; also has the capability to measure the view on the screen as well as bounding box measurements. Bounding box measurements should be possible in any pre-processor you use for slicing STL files though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;MeshLab can also be used to scale, merge or translate your STL if desired. however I would also recommend mesh mixer as it is more user-friendly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The last option if you have any coding experience, an STL file can be easily read and then you could select the desired vertices and measure/move them and then rewrite out the STL file. There are libraries for most major coding languages for dealing with STL files.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4639" LastActivityDate="2016-10-21T22:33:35.063" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2950" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-10-22T04:58:26.293" Score="6" ViewCount="276" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am new to FDM RP.  I've done a lot of work on ZCorp and Connex.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The question is can vectors curve drive an extrusion nozzle?  Within a 3D volume I can generate curves that I want the print nozzle to follow. Is this possible or has it been done? If so, what software or is there a hack?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another question is, can you print a part with no sidewall or containment boundary?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4641" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2016-11-22T13:59:52.570" LastActivityDate="2016-11-22T15:43:17.217" Title="Slicing software and Sidewall" Tags="|3d-design|slicing|slic3r|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2951" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2957" CreationDate="2016-10-22T09:17:56.033" Score="7" ViewCount="4340" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am trying to use my M3D printer that doesn't work with my Linux computer. I have been told that OctoPi would make it work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My current setup is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Raspberry 2 &lt;strong&gt;without WiFi&lt;/strong&gt;, with OctoPi running&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Keyboard and touchscreen connected to the Raspberry&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A &lt;code&gt;.obj&lt;/code&gt; file located in &lt;code&gt;/home/pi/&lt;/code&gt; on the Raspberry&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know anything about OctoPi, but it seems to be created to use as a print server connected by WiFi.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is: how can I use it locally, directly on my Raspberry?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;NOTE:&lt;/em&gt; I can only use my Raspberry in command line for the moment, but if required I can install lightdm to display stuff.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4645" LastActivityDate="2016-10-22T20:18:19.933" Title="Can I use OctoPi locally?" Tags="|octoprint|raspberry-pi|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2952" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-10-22T11:11:31.227" Score="11" ViewCount="20851" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been using PLA filament for two years now and have had good prints. ABS on the other hand has not been so good, so my choice of filament is PLA. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am getting ready to do a sign for the American Legion and the colors are black, blue, and red and are 0.8 mm thin. The black letters are 4&quot; x 2.5&quot;, blue are 3&quot; x 2&quot; and the red are 7.75&quot; x 5.5&quot;. I plan to treat them with UV protection spray and attach them with clear epoxy to white back lit Plexiglass. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As the letters are quite thin, my question is how well will this hold up in the weather? The sign hangs on a pole that points east &amp;amp; west so the letters will be facing north and south. The original was painted with spray paint and the red paint south side faded to the point you could hardly see it at all. The sign had been there for some time and was done at a professional sign company.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4647" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2018-09-14T13:30:08.627" LastActivityDate="2021-06-11T09:02:45.903" Title="PLA use outdoors?" Tags="|pla|outdoors|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2953" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2959" CreationDate="2016-10-22T11:58:29.533" Score="0" ViewCount="139" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a question. Home printers are controlled via open-source software such as Pronterface. These printers print mostly in plastic, but how to control the &quot;metal&quot; printer. The principle of the printing here is a little different. Is it possible to use, for example, Pronterface for this task or the completely different software is needed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4649" LastActivityDate="2016-10-22T23:26:25.963" Title="How to control 3d printer printing in metal?" Tags="|metal-printing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="0" ClosedDate="2016-10-23T15:09:28.357" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2954" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="974" CreationDate="2016-10-22T12:42:03.000" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Contact Brian or Lykle.  We all have Boots Industries printers and have heavily modified it to belt drive and magnetic effectors.  The print quality has improved drastically.  The old Boots support group has since moved on to Slack and we are in constant contact everyday.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://biv25.slack.com/messages/@slackbot/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://biv25.slack.com/messages/@slackbot/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1843195&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1843195&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4650" LastActivityDate="2016-10-22T12:42:03.000" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2955" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-10-22T15:25:37.193" Score="8" ViewCount="579" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not quite sure what's happening here. I printed it as a single ball and had this effect. I thought it might be a cooling issue so I printed 4 at once but the issue still occurred. If I size the ball up, the problem reduces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that the hole is supposed to be a cylinder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/owZtw.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/owZtw.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Photo of four balls exhibiting bumps around a cyclindrical through hole&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4378" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2016-11-22T13:59:47.813" LastActivityDate="2016-11-22T13:59:47.813" Title="Weird bumps cylindrical hole" Tags="|pla|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2956" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-10-22T18:09:26.053" Score="9" ViewCount="435" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently changed the printhead on my DeltaMaker from stock to an E3D Lite6, and am struggling to get back to my original quality, reliability, and repeatability.  I thought I had gotten the recipe pretty close to dialed in and tried a bigger print last night.  It turned out pretty good in most respects except for where vertical structures rise up from the horizontal surface (and a retraction/stringing issue that I didn't think was but perhaps could be related).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The screw hole mounts seem well-designed to me:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4IgaU.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4IgaU.png&quot; alt=&quot;3D print preview&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No 90 degree transitions - I would think this would be the least of my problems.  But last night they had serious problems:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZXNsE.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZXNsE.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Example 1&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/USaAE.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/USaAE.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Example 2&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I haven't seen a problem like that before.  Extrusion rate seems basically perfect - why does it look like it just stopped extruding around the perimeters?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm using PLA filament and Simplify3D 3.1.0 slicing.  Settings:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;0.35 mm nozzle, 0.40 mm extrusion width, 1.05 extrusion multiplier&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;0.15 mm layer height, 3 top, 3 bottom layers, 2 perimeter shells (maybe should try 3?)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;30% infill, 60% outline overlap, 110% infill extrusion width &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Temp is 220°C (thermocouple wedged between nozzle and heater block reports about 206°C when thermistor says 220°C) &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Print speed is 2700 mm/min (45 mm/s)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has anyone seen this issue before?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;UPDATE:&#xA;Increasing outline overlap from 60% to 90% &lt;em&gt;almost&lt;/em&gt; fixes the problem (at least visually if not structurally) - there's just one small hole at the base of each structure.  (I stopped the print a few layers after the problem layers do ignore the tops.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YW5JW.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YW5JW.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Updated Image&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Going to 99% (Simplify3D's max) would probably get rid of those last holes but I have to think that maxing out S3D's outline overlap setting to just barely make the print work means I haven't found or addressed the true root cause...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4090" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2016-11-23T17:33:15.530" LastActivityDate="2016-11-23T17:33:15.530" Title="Print fails at perpendicular boundaries" Tags="|print-quality|simplify3d|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2957" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2951" CreationDate="2016-10-22T20:18:19.933" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;To use it locally you need to be able to view the desktop. &lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;br&gt;&lt;code&gt;sudo raspi-config&lt;/code&gt;  to pull up the config menu and enable boot to desktop.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;If there is no browser installed already you'll need to install one.&#xA;&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;code&gt;sudo apt-get update&lt;/code&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;code&gt;sudo apt-get install epiphany-browser&lt;/code&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Open the browser and navigate to &lt;a href=&quot;http://localhost/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://localhost/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I recommend configuring access control when it prompts you. After you configure it, click login in the top right and login to use octopi.&#xA;&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;ALTERNATIVE&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://octocmd.readthedocs.io/en/latest/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;octocmd&lt;/a&gt; is a command line interface for octoprint. If you would rather not boot into the desktop then this is the way to go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4251" LastActivityDate="2016-10-22T20:18:19.933" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2958" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2955" CreationDate="2016-10-22T23:20:43.420" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It looks like it is trying to fill in what might be small gaps and is putting blobs down because the gaps to too small of a detail to accurately fill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4654" LastActivityDate="2016-10-22T23:20:43.420" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2959" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2953" CreationDate="2016-10-22T23:26:25.963" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Pronterface would control the printer, but you would need a slicer that could give you g-code that works with said metal printer. Being it would be using metal, most of those are powder based, using a laser to sinter. The slicers for FDM based machines would not create the correct g-code for the application. I know there has been some effort around powder based printers (both metal and plastic) but I do not know of any software that has resulted from these efforts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This wiki index for powder printers may be of some help to find out what software they are working on, most likely a custom solution.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://reprap.org/wiki/Powder&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://reprap.org/wiki/Powder&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4654" LastActivityDate="2016-10-22T23:26:25.963" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2960" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2956" CreationDate="2016-10-22T23:29:42.213" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It looks like the first layers that are making the vertical transition do not have enough to stick to and are curling up. Are you using a cooling fan?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4654" LastActivityDate="2016-10-22T23:29:42.213" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2961" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2929" CreationDate="2016-10-22T23:40:35.417" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Z-corp/3D systems printers lay down what is essentially ink in each layer (only around the perimeters) much like an inkjet printer, dying the powder as the parts are made. This means they can make almost any color at any point in the model. The down size is these models are pretty fragile, at least the last ones that I have handled. This can be helped by dipping them in cyanoacrylate and letting them dry. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As pointed out in the comments, this is not an SLS process, but looks very similar. The printer lays down a binder (clear or colored) on each layer, and is why these models are much more fragile than SLS models, which are very strong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is an example of some prints: &lt;a href=&quot;http://mcad3dprintingandprototyping.blogspot.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://mcad3dprintingandprototyping.blogspot.com/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4654" LastEditorUserId="4654" LastEditDate="2016-10-23T14:56:05.253" LastActivityDate="2016-10-23T14:56:05.253" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2962" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1434" CreationDate="2016-10-23T01:19:57.300" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;While Star Wind's answer is best as far as addressing what was not asked, but was probably the intent of the question, for educational purposes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To control the printer you need an microcontroller (most popular are Arduino) which will interface with the motor drivers. Microcontrollers cannot output the current needed to control the motors, so motor drivers (such as this &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.pololu.com/product/1182&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.pololu.com/product/1182&lt;/a&gt; ) are easy ways to control a stepper motor with higher current (and usually voltage). You can build your own if you are particularlly adventurous, they are essentially two H-bridge circuits.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Arduino programming environment has a library for controlling stepper motors through a driver built in, you just tell it which pin to send the pulses to, and how fast, and a separate pin tells it to spin clockwise or counterclockwise. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a 3D printer you need at least four motors working in unison, one for the X, Y, Z axis, and one for the extruder (E axis). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The existing programs that 3D printers use (Marlin, Sprinter, Teacup, etc) are all doing these simple steps at their core, but have implemented libraries of G-code that the printer uses to make control the stepper motors in unison to make the correct shape. Slicing programs such as Cura or Slic3r take in the 3D model and output the Gcode that the microcontroller is programmed to understand. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4654" LastActivityDate="2016-10-23T01:19:57.300" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2963" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2910" CreationDate="2016-10-23T01:36:04.967" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If there is simulation software for this it is likely proprietary and not being distributed at this point. The materials themselves that are capable of self assembly (4D) are still in experimental development, and this there is not really anything to simulate. A simulation needs the properties of the materials that will be used, but these materials do not exist in mass production, they are still being custom made in labs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4654" LastActivityDate="2016-10-23T01:36:04.967" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2964" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2966" CreationDate="2016-10-23T08:16:41.523" Score="6" ViewCount="128" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am rebuilding my printer, a hold Prusa/Mendel that has been boxed for years. I have changed the board ( I am using a Rumba) and the drivers (I am using &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.pololu.com/product/2133&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Pololu 8225&lt;/a&gt;) with heatsinks and 1/16 microsteps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;5 motors type &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.openimpulse.com/blog/products-page/product-category/42byghw811-stepper-motor-2-5-4-8-kg%E2%8B%85cm/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;42BYGHW811&lt;/a&gt;, rated: 2,5 A, R 1,25 Ohm.&#xA;I have set the stepper voltage at 0,8 V for XYE which gives a current of 0,64 A and they seems to work without problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To get the same current on Z, where I have 2 motors in parallel, I should set it at 0,4 V but the motors do not turn at such low voltage. They just make noise, no turn. I have M8 rods nicely lubricated on such axis and I can turn them easily by fingers. If I go up to 1 V the motors turns but then the driver gets very hot and I loose steps. May be I should play with the acceleration too?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am not sure if the above settings are correct. Your hints from your actual settings and experiences will be appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4388" LastActivityDate="2016-10-23T14:19:18.797" Title="How should I power these stepper motors" Tags="|stepper|stepper-driver|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2965" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-10-23T11:47:10.783" Score="7" ViewCount="340" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a strange problem with my Printrbot Simple Metal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I start printing it's suddenly trying to go off axis before starting to print. All is fine once it actually starts to print, but it's very annoying to hear the sound on the start and end of each print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That can't be good on the motors and chains either, something is going to give out at some point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's what that sounds like: &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/R8-FxeC6OoM&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;YouTube - IMG 5600&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My OctoPi settings are: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2Qlas.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2Qlas.png&quot; alt=&quot;OctoPi settings&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4658" LastEditorUserId="854" LastEditDate="2016-12-04T01:12:19.640" LastActivityDate="2016-12-04T01:12:19.640" Title="Printrbot going off axis when initializing" Tags="|calibration|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2966" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2964" CreationDate="2016-10-23T14:19:18.797" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the motors are in parallel, then setting it at 0.4V means each motor will only get &lt;em&gt;a quarter of&lt;/em&gt; the current a single motor would get at 0.8V. If you set it to 0.8V each motor will get half. I think 0.8V (same as for the other motors) would be an appropriate setting. Stepper drivers are constant-current, not constant-voltage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are the steps/mm for your Z-axis correct? Perhaps it's just trying to move too quickly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastActivityDate="2016-10-23T14:19:18.797" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2967" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2717" CreationDate="2016-10-23T15:16:22.440" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This isn't a &quot;turn this knob and all will be well&quot; answer, because your machine setup sounds pretty unique to what most people will have experience with. Not being familiar with the older Stratasys printheads, but based on my overall experience with 3D printers, there are three things that could be an issue:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The nozzles are obstructed. The way you talk about clearing the jams of pushing a tool up through the nozzle end would not effectively clear a jam, it would only push the debris back into the print head, just waiting to be pushed by the plastic back into the nozzle. It could even be a piece of aluminum foil from the rebuild process. The typical way jams like this are cleared is to do a &quot;cold pull&quot; where you heat up the hot end just enough to be able to pull the plastic out, before it has really had a chance to liquify, hopefully trapping the debris in the plastic, then cut the end of the plastic off and reload. The 90 degree bend in their design may make this very hard if not impossible to do.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Heat creep. The tubes are a slightly smaller diameter, and if heat is creeping up the print head and letting the filament expand in these tubes, it may be expanding enough that it will no longer move through the print head. Diagnose this by letting the printer jam, then cool off for a few hours. If you can print again for a short time period before it jams again, this may be your issue, where as an obstructed nozzle would not allow any more filament out. Either turn down your temps, or increase your cooling on the print head to address (or get the original size tubes if possible).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Print head temperatures too low for the print speed. The Stratasys Fortus 250mc I use runs ABS at about 300 degrees. Many of the reprap printers run even higher than this for ABS. The other thing to remember when ever you see people mention what temperatures they use, is that this is relative, and only a guide, as what the temperature reads at the thermocouple or thermistor is usually slightly off from the temperature that is melting the plastic based on heater location in relation to the plastic and thermistor. This can be diagnosed by printing until it jams, pause the print for something like 30 seconds to let the hot end melt more plastic, and then resume printing. If resumes proper printing this may be your issue (and it will jam again shortly if you do not adjust temps).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4654" LastActivityDate="2016-10-23T15:16:22.440" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2968" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2965" CreationDate="2016-10-23T17:34:01.623" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is very common that FDM 3D printers &quot;home&quot; their position at the start of each print (as defined by the slicers preprint g-code). This is done by deliberately running the end effector towards its expected X=0, Y=0 position until it hits the endstop switches for each axis. Could it be this behaviour you are seeing? If so, I would suggest checking that your endstops are functioning correctly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can manually activate this homing action using the G-code &lt;a href=&quot;http://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#G28:_Move_to_Origin_.28Home.29&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;G28&lt;/a&gt; in (for instance) &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.pronterface.com/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Pronterface&lt;/a&gt;. Alternatively, you can verify that your endstops are actually working using the &lt;a href=&quot;http://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#M119:_Get_Endstop_Status&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;M119&lt;/a&gt;-command while pressing each switch manually. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="115" LastActivityDate="2016-10-23T17:34:01.623" CommentCount="13" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2969" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2985" CreationDate="2016-10-23T22:20:26.973" Score="3" ViewCount="166" Body="&lt;p&gt;I seem to be observing a couple problems w/ Cura2.3 OSX . It seems to be placing the sliced data (gcode) over to negative X by a cm or so.  Further, the X- and Y-axes displayed in Cura definitely map to Y and X when the printer starts up. I've verified that I have the printer's X and Y end stops and motors connected to the correct outputs. Now, I can just rotate my parts before slicing, but I'd rather have things be &quot;correct&quot; to begin with. &#xA;I've read the relevant info at &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/1323/how-to-line-up-x-y-print-area-between-hardware-and-software&quot;&gt;question 1323&lt;/a&gt;, but I'd rather if possible adjust the Printer Settings for my defined printer in the Cura Preferences sub-menu. I couldn't find any description of what the &quot;printer head&quot; X and Y offset values mean there, nor what the &quot;Z-gantry&quot; value does either.&#xA;I'm running from the SD card; no USB connection. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2191" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T13:00:58.447" LastActivityDate="2016-10-26T12:20:18.873" Title="How to map Cura printspace to Prusa I3 printspace" Tags="|prusa-i3|ultimaker-cura|axis|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2970" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3717" CreationDate="2016-10-24T13:59:18.637" Score="5" ViewCount="638" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I design parts that must fit in each other, I usually keep in mind that prints are 0.2-0.5 mm wider than expected (depending on the material), and I size the parts accordingly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, sometimes, I design the whole part and then slice it with planes or lines. In these cases, I need to push/pull each contact surface manually by the same amount (0.2-0.5 mm), which is a time-consuming task. Another option is to use a cutter to remove the outer surface layer (basically, I remove the rigged surface, making it smooth again). Still, it's unsafe and even more time-consuming.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I quickly generate said controlled gaps on the contact surfaces between two objects but not on the rest of the object? To make it everywhere, I could use shells, I guess, but I don't need that on the whole object.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2338" LastEditorUserId="36802" LastEditDate="2023-12-12T18:51:40.520" LastActivityDate="2023-12-12T18:51:40.520" Title="How to add tolerances/gaps in Autodesk 123D Design?" Tags="|3d-design|print-preparation|autodesk|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="2972" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2974" CreationDate="2016-10-24T19:55:19.650" Score="7" ViewCount="225" Body="&lt;p&gt;A lot of consumer desktop FDM printers come with a 0.4 mm nozzle. I'm looking to print fine details objects and I was considering trying to use a smaller size nozzle. But before I do so I would like to establish a list of downsides and unwanted consequences.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4671" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2023-04-02T22:24:11.657" LastActivityDate="2023-04-02T22:24:11.657" Title="What are the downsides and aftereffects of using a smaller nozzle?" Tags="|fdm|desktop-printer|nozzle|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="2974" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2972" CreationDate="2016-10-24T21:05:47.020" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here are some things to look out for when switching to a smaller nozzle size:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Curling&lt;/strong&gt; (out of the nozzle): Make sure the nozzle is clear of any debris to avoid the extruded filament from catching and therefore curling around the nozzle.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Warping&lt;/strong&gt;: You might experience more warping on the build plate and delamination between layers as a result of the smaller surface area of the layers.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Reduce speeds&lt;/strong&gt;: You should reduce your print speeds anyways when printing fine-detail objects. However, the smaller nozzle size will need a bit more time to adhere to other objects (see above).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Standoff distance&lt;/strong&gt;: The distance between the nozzle and build plate, a.k.a standoff, should be a bit smaller with the nozzle size. Typically people use the paper reference (using a piece of paper to &quot;calibrate&quot; the standoff), which is about 0.004&quot;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Make sure your slicing engine knows the change!&lt;/strong&gt; Most slicing software will allow you to adjust the nozzle size. This can also be used to fine-tune your machine.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Beware of clogging&lt;/strong&gt;: Clogging is usually a result of poor cooling between your heater block and your drive gear, poor filament quality, and/or incorrect extrusion rates. You might want to perform a benchmark print with the new nozzle to &quot;rediscover&quot; which temperatures work best with the new &quot;basin&quot; volume in the nozzle.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm sure there are many others, but this should help get you started.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="98" LastEditorUserId="4927" LastEditDate="2018-08-04T17:01:51.167" LastActivityDate="2018-08-04T17:01:51.167" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="2975" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2956" CreationDate="2016-10-24T22:08:10.350" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since you said you don't have a cooling fan, try lowering the temperature on your print head to something like 205. The strings in the first and second picture also occur more often when the print temperature is too high as well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The layer time gets really small at that transition, so make sure the print speed is slowing down while printing that part of the object and pausing in between those layers to allow for cooling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It looks like the plastic is still molten and is being dragged around too me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="762" LastActivityDate="2016-10-24T22:08:10.350" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2976" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6" CreationDate="2016-10-25T00:32:15.157" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The standard option is to change out filaments at certain times during the print. Software to add these pauses to your print automatically are around, with one (&lt;a href=&quot;http://prusaprinters.org/color-print/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;ColorPrint&lt;/a&gt;). This method works if you only want to change at a certain Z height, and not intermix colors on the same levels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other newer development that works for many printers (this works for single nozzle printers as well) are getting Y type adapters that allow more than 1 filament to be fed into a single extruder, and use a rapid retraction to pull the filament back out past the Y connector to allow the next color to be fed into the nozzle. Several companies are putting products like this out on the market at this time. An example of this can be seen at this &lt;a href=&quot;http://prusaprinters.org/original-prusa-i3-mk2-multi-material-upgrade-release/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;page&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As mentioned in other answers, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.mosaicmanufacturing.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Mosaic Pallette&lt;/a&gt; is an option to drive more complicated multi-color prints, but is a rather expensive option at $999. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://e3d-online.com/The-Kraken&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;E3d Kraken&lt;/a&gt; might be a possible hotend upgrade to a Makerbot, although it would involve a fair amount of work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4654" LastEditorUserId="20" LastEditDate="2016-10-25T14:14:13.663" LastActivityDate="2016-10-25T14:14:13.663" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2977" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="964" CreationDate="2016-10-25T00:57:10.223" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;On Carbon3D's homepage they show a part that appears to have supports in it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/o3tDH.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/o3tDH.png&quot; alt=&quot;image from Carbon3D&amp;#39;s homepage of supports&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Per a conversation with Carbon3D's support they confirm that their slicing software will generate supports based on the overhang angle geometry, and in the case of a buckyball within a buckyball, there would be supports generated to create the buckyball, and to support the interior buckyball joining the two together that would have to be removed in post processing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Enclosed volumes need to have a drain hole, and you would have to avoid vacuum forming shapes such as an upside down cup in which atmospheric pressure would keep the interior of the cup filled with resin until the reservoir runs out or the vacuum is able to be broken releasing the excess resin. In the case of a cup you would change the orientation. I am not sure how one would handle trying to print a solid sphere with no holes to avoid this condition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4654" LastEditorUserId="4654" LastEditDate="2016-10-25T22:02:58.323" LastActivityDate="2016-10-25T22:02:58.323" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2978" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2741" CreationDate="2016-10-25T04:21:03.163" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure I know exactly what is wrong or what steps you've taken so far, but it seems like your extruder motor is broken and you've narrowed the problem down to electronics.&#xA;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;If so, replacing the Arduino, motor, and driver leaves only the Ultimaker PCB as the source of the problem. I would suggest ordering another - but not until you've contacted Ultimaker with the problem you're outlining here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4678" LastActivityDate="2016-10-25T04:21:03.163" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2979" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3022" CreationDate="2016-10-25T05:59:09.757" Score="7" ViewCount="528" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are there any 3D printing services or something similar to 3D print or injection mold light reflectors? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to find something that is similar to PCB printing that allows you to upload a 3D design of a reflector and they will produce this reflector and coat it with mirror surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4680" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2017-02-14T05:34:25.937" LastActivityDate="2017-02-14T05:34:25.937" Title="Affordable 3D printing of reflector" Tags="|material|services|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2980" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2979" CreationDate="2016-10-25T12:39:20.483" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would not recommend extrusion printers for this, because they are unlikely to produce a smooth enough surface.  To get a clean surface, the irregularities have to be a fraction of visible wavelengths, which is to say on the order of 0.01 micron.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Without knowing what sort of reflector you're thinking of (flat? spherical? parabolic?), it's hard to recommend a specific optimal, cheap approach.  All in all, you're probably best off looking in standard catalogs such as Edmund Optics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2191" LastActivityDate="2016-10-25T12:39:20.483" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2981" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2952" CreationDate="2016-10-25T14:25:07.337" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;I printed a handle for a rather big rolling door in natural PLA (From Fabberparts) - no UV protection. It's on the weather side of the house and is exposed to direct sun half the day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And after three years cycling to all the German seasons it's still absolutely fine. Also, Wikipedia told me that PLA has good UV resistance - so you should be fine IMHO.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a good blog post about your question: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.iepas.ucar.edu/using-pla-for-long-term-outdoor-applications/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Using PLA for Long-Term Outdoor Applications&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Update: After ~ 8 Years the door handle ist still fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4684" LastEditorUserId="4684" LastEditDate="2021-06-11T09:02:45.903" LastActivityDate="2021-06-11T09:02:45.903" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="2982" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2952" CreationDate="2016-10-25T15:16:00.863" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Keep in mind that PLA has a much lower temperature point, where is starts getting flexible. I once had PLA-printed parts in my car in the summer for three hours and when I came back, they where bent. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know about the weather conditions in your local environment, but if you experience hot temperatures and your sign is hanging in direct sunlight, I would suggest to make sure you secure the letters against bending (e.g. cover them with a coat of epoxy or something like this).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4686" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-06-08T10:00:43.543" LastActivityDate="2018-06-08T10:00:43.543" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="2983" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2984" CreationDate="2016-10-25T17:14:38.847" Score="8" ViewCount="425" Body="&lt;p&gt;The quality of the filament is frequently mentioned either as the source of an issue but also as the solution to a problem. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know that the way you use,store and protect your filament will greatly impact it's quality, especially overtime, but here I'm interested to understand what makes a brand new, out of the air-tight package, good or bad? What to look for when you buy filament (specs,chemical,weight,...)? &lt;strike&gt;What are some brands that are notoriously know to make &quot;high quality&quot; filament?&lt;/strike&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4671" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2018-09-16T12:23:14.083" LastActivityDate="2018-09-16T12:23:14.083" Title="What makes a good PLA filament?" Tags="|filament|pla|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2984" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2983" CreationDate="2016-10-25T22:53:27.513" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;General characteristics of a &quot;quality&quot; filament:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Manufactured to a &quot;high&quot; dimensional tolerance.&lt;/strong&gt;  Measure the filament in several places along it's length and check for consistency.  I'm pretty happy with filament that has less than 0.05mm difference between its thickest and thinnest diameter.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Lack of impurities.&lt;/strong&gt;  I've never had a problem with impurities (that I know of) but I've heard and read about it.  Finer nozzle diameters will be more susceptible to clogs caused by foreign matter in the filament.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Good packaging.&lt;/strong&gt;  You already mentioned it, but good packaging is a sign of a reputable filament supplier.  It should be sealed in a fairly &quot;air-tight&quot; bag with a desiccant to keep it dry.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Technical information available from manufacturer.&lt;/strong&gt; Quality filament manufactures tend to provide information about their filament's characteristics and other information such as optimal settings, etc.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Good reputation.&lt;/strong&gt;  This one isn't necessarily fair to newcomers, but there is lots of information online about the reliability and quality of various filaments.  In this case, google is your friend.  (Keep in mind that there will be plenty of complaints that result from poor settings/skill and have nothing to do with the quality of the filament.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope this helps!  :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4483" LastActivityDate="2016-10-25T22:53:27.513" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2985" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2969" CreationDate="2016-10-26T12:20:18.873" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well, in my particular case, it helps to have the X and Y control (motor and endstop switch) plugged in to the correct ports :-( .  That took care of the X vs. Y orientation problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you command &quot;Home All&quot; either via the LCD panel or over USB, the nozzle should sit in the front left corner of the bed as you face the machine (&quot;stage right&quot; for you thespians). &#xA;The link Chris T provided, &lt;a href=&quot;https://ultimaker.com/en/community/21180-cura-211-print-bed-size-offset&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;ultimaker&lt;/a&gt;, provides helpful background information as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next, if there are small offsets, find control can be set with a script similar to the following (leave out the auto-levelling command if you don't have that),&#xA;from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.printrbottalk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=19&amp;amp;t=9883&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;printerbot talk forum&lt;/a&gt; .&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;M104 S{print_temperature}&#xA;G21 ;metric values&#xA;G90 ;absolute positioning&#xA;M82 ;set extruder to absolute mode&#xA;M107 ;start with the fan off&#xA;G28 X0 Y0 ;move X/Y to min endstops&#xA;G28 Z0 ;move Z to min endstops&#xA;M109 S{print_temperature} ;wait on temperature line&#xA;G29 ; Auto bed levelling&#xA;;G28 X0 Y0 ;move X/Y to min endstops&#xA;G92 X132.4 Y20; Reset actual position after G29 bug&#xA;G92 E0 ;zero the extruded length&#xA;G1 F{travel_speed}&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And finally, there's a calibration file at &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:13053&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;thingiverse&lt;/a&gt; which prints large squares so you can see the exact offset.  I hope to get that file modded with a couple markers (indents, e.g.) to verify orientation as well as location.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2191" LastActivityDate="2016-10-26T12:20:18.873" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2986" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3003" CreationDate="2016-10-26T19:04:33.863" Score="6" ViewCount="4282" Body="&lt;p&gt;Has anyone succeeded in installing the auto bed levelling on a Rumba board with Marlin firmware?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have the last stable version &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/releases/tag/1.1.0-RC6&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;1.1.0 RC6&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would appreciate some direction especially about:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How and which pin to activate for the servo?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How to test it with G-code before I move to settings of the probe sequence?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have only installed the hardware for now (5 V servo) connected to Ext. 3 (EXP3):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pin 2 (+5V);&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pin 4 (GND), and;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pin 6 (PWM),&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ETHOL.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ETHOL.png&quot; alt=&quot;Servo and RAMPS 1.4 and RUMBA connections&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZGvw0.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZGvw0.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;RUMBA EXP3 pinout&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;but I cannot move it with the G-code command &lt;code&gt;M280 P0 S180&lt;/code&gt;. I have no idea where to put my hands on firmware to get this going. However my ultimate goal is to set the ABL.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4388" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2016-12-04T01:16:11.070" LastActivityDate="2016-12-04T01:16:11.070" Title="Auto bed levelling with Rumba board - Servo not deploying" Tags="|calibration|z-probe|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2987" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2955" CreationDate="2016-10-26T20:33:38.693" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In order to exclude a cooling issue, you could try printing a larger object alongside the spheres. Something that has a constant cross-section and is at least as high as the spheres.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have had issues when printing objects with a sharp tip, even printing 8 at once the total amount printed on the top layers was not enough to let the material cool before the next layer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4406" LastActivityDate="2016-10-26T20:33:38.693" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2988" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-10-27T16:04:11.773" Score="6" ViewCount="1998" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am printing a large flat print, approximately 8&quot; x 4&quot; x 1/8&quot;. It has good adhesion when printing and lays flat when finished. I allow the print to cool slowly but the center of the print bows upward 1/16&quot;-1/8&quot;. It bows in both directions but more noticeably in the longer direction. The corners are not curling up this is the center of the print lifting. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I started printing at 25% infill but have tried 100%. 100% bows less but still bows. This does not happen with PLA or PETG. 100% fill was printed with no fan. 25% printed with no fan for first layers and fan at 40% after. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there anything I can do to stop this from happening?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Printer: Lulzbot TAZ 5 w/ 0.5mm hotend in sealed enclosure. Heated bed at 115C, extruer at 240C. Environmental temperatures are 30-37C depending on the stage of the print. Hotter as it continues. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Follow Up Questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the ideal environmental printing temperature for ABS? &#xA;If a part were reheated could an existing arch be corrected? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Update: Build Plate Thermal Images w/plate set @ 115C&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/E05Pm.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/E05Pm.png&quot; alt=&quot;Center Plate&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mbCfG.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mbCfG.png&quot; alt=&quot;Front Corner&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4703" LastEditorUserId="4703" LastEditDate="2016-11-01T17:59:32.900" LastActivityDate="2016-11-01T17:59:32.900" Title="Large flat ABS print curling during cooldown" Tags="|abs|lulzbot|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2989" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2988" CreationDate="2016-10-27T20:13:26.313" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Short Answer&lt;/strong&gt;: Make the environment temperature is a bit warmer to offset the cooling rate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Long Answer&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All materials shrink as they cool, but some materials shrink at a much higher rate than others. This is primarily driven by &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Temperature_coefficient&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;temperature coefficients&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/thermal-conductivity-d_429.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;thermal conductivity&lt;/a&gt; of the individual materials. There are &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/linear-expansion-coefficients-d_95.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;calculators available online&lt;/a&gt; that you can get more involved with discovering how this works mathematically.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, in layman's terms, the temperature between your build plate and the first layers of plastic are so drastically different, that at a certain point the plastic becomes under tension as it shrinks faster/more than the build plate. Over time, since the surface tension between the part and the build plate is no longer in the way, the corner can continue to shrink.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are some options:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ensure your build plate temperatures are correct acceptable. I've had success with 112C in NW United States. Increasing the temperature will be an attempt to bridge the gap between BP temps and plastic temps during the final cool-down.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Search for ways to &quot;anchor&quot; the part to the build plate. There are lots of resources on the internet on how to do this, so I'll spare you the list.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Increase your environment temperature. I highly suggest this because it can help reduce other errors you might encounter throughout the printing process, such as de-lamination, warping, brittleness, etc. I'm not recommending placing a space heater next to your printer (really, don't do that!), but perhaps even a space heater in the room can help regulate the environment temperature a bit better.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Consider other environment variables. Consider things like &lt;em&gt;&quot;Is my printer next to a window?&quot;&lt;/em&gt;, &lt;em&gt;&quot;Do I live in a particularly cold environment in general?&quot;&lt;/em&gt;, or even &lt;em&gt;&quot;Am I baking cookies in the next room?&quot;&lt;/em&gt;. A lot of these seemingly meaningless variables play an important role in ensuring quality prints.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sub&gt;(I know there's more, so I'll add onto this answer a bit more as I remember them)&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="98" LastEditorUserId="98" LastEditDate="2016-10-27T21:06:22.627" LastActivityDate="2016-10-27T21:06:22.627" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2990" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-10-27T23:42:00.543" Score="5" ViewCount="1341" Body="&lt;p&gt;As you can see in the picture, my heated bed support is too low on the right side, even touching the Y-axis chassis end plate. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3FTZe.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3FTZe.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;The front of the printer, from where you can see the heated bed support leaning down on the right, even touching the Y-axis chassis.&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is only the case on the front of the printer. The back is perfectly straight. Do you know how this can happen and what can be done? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4708" LastEditorUserId="854" LastEditDate="2016-11-21T16:41:28.253" LastActivityDate="2016-12-23T14:20:13.480" Title="Wanhao duplicator i3 print bed support warped" Tags="|heated-bed|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2992" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1102" CreationDate="2016-10-28T10:04:03.673" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's totally possible to achieve but the result vastly &lt;strong&gt;depends&lt;/strong&gt; on your painting skills and your spray paint quality. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your can look at &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.instructables.com/id/3D-Printed-Stone-Head/?ALLSTEPS&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;this page&lt;/a&gt; for a concrete example. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How it compares to stone filament is fairly subjective though. Painting a 3D print usually breaks down in 3 steps : &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Smoothing out the lines.&lt;/strong&gt; &#xA;&lt;em&gt;Achieved by either sanding the print or using acetone&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Apply coating&lt;/strong&gt;.&#xA;&lt;em&gt;Ensures a better adhesion for the paint&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Apply spray paint&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If any of these steps are neglected, the final result won't look as good as using stone filament. However, if the quality of you stone filament is really bad, painting will offer a better result.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4712" LastActivityDate="2016-10-28T10:04:03.673" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2993" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-10-28T15:08:18.357" Score="9" ViewCount="593" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm a novice in 3D printing. I have a &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Aleph_Objects#LulzBot&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Lulzbot Kittaz 3D printer&lt;/a&gt; with a hexagonal hot end of 0.35&amp;nbsp;mm. I have printed a test subject, and while I was printing I encountered this extrusion problem. I'm using ABS with 230&amp;nbsp;°C hot end temperature and 85&amp;nbsp;°C bed temperature. What kind of problem is this and how should I rectify it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I took this photo when the printer printed the first layer:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HtTv4.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HtTv4.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;First layer of print&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4544" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2016-12-04T01:09:03.557" LastActivityDate="2016-12-13T21:50:32.220" Title="Which type of extrusion problem?" Tags="|print-quality|extrusion|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2994" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2854" CreationDate="2016-10-28T17:26:45.077" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've had great luck with &quot;G16 aviation connectors&quot; -- easy to find with a Web search, and they come in any number of pins from 2-10 (the 10s are a little harder to find). Round (so easy to panel-mount), metal barrels, locking ring so they don't come loose. If you get ones with a couple extra pins, you can double up on pins without having to double up on actual connectors. I used a 4-pin for the hot bed (2 power, 2 thermistor); 10-pin for the extruders (4 motor, 2 heater, 2 thermistor, 2 fan), and 8-pin for each axis (4 motor, 4 limit).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastActivityDate="2016-10-28T17:26:45.077" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2996" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3040" CreationDate="2016-10-29T17:26:57.503" Score="10" ViewCount="15589" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an old Solidoodle 2 that I bought broken from a garage sale that I am converting to use RAMPS 1.4 with Marlin Firmware. All the motors work correctly, I am just having issues getting the endstops to work.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am using a regular limit switch with NC going to the signal pin and the other to ground. I have this switch plugged into first header column for X-min. My endstop configuration is currently:&lt;br&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;//=========================================================================== &#xA;//============================== Endstop Settings ===========================&#xA;//===========================================================================&#xA;&#xA;// @section homing&#xA;&#xA;// Specify here all the endstop connectors that are connected to any endstop or probe.&#xA;// Almost all printers will be using one per axis. Probes will use one or more of the&#xA;// extra connectors. Leave undefined any used for non-endstop and non-probe purposes.&#xA;#define USE_XMIN_PLUG true&#xA;#define USE_YMIN_PLUG true&#xA;#define USE_ZMIN_PLUG true&#xA;//#define USE_XMAX_PLUG false&#xA;//#define USE_YMAX_PLUG false&#xA;//#define USE_ZMAX_PLUG false&#xA;&#xA;// coarse Endstop Settings&#xA;#define ENDSTOPPULLUPS // Comment this out (using // at the start of the line) to disable the endstop pullup resistors&#xA;&#xA;#if DISABLED(ENDSTOPPULLUPS)&#xA;  // fine endstop settings: Individual pullups. will be ignored if ENDSTOPPULLUPS is defined&#xA;  //#define ENDSTOPPULLUP_XMAX&#xA;  //#define ENDSTOPPULLUP_YMAX&#xA;  //#define ENDSTOPPULLUP_ZMAX&#xA;  //#define ENDSTOPPULLUP_XMIN&#xA;  //#define ENDSTOPPULLUP_YMIN&#xA;  //#define ENDSTOPPULLUP_ZMIN&#xA;  //#define ENDSTOPPULLUP_ZMIN_PROBE&#xA;#endif&#xA;&#xA;// Mechanical endstop with COM to ground and NC to Signal uses &quot;false&quot; here (most common setup).&#xA;#define X_MIN_ENDSTOP_INVERTING true // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.&#xA;#define Y_MIN_ENDSTOP_INVERTING false // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.&#xA;#define Z_MIN_ENDSTOP_INVERTING false // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.&#xA;#define X_MAX_ENDSTOP_INVERTING false // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.&#xA;#define Y_MAX_ENDSTOP_INVERTING false // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.&#xA;#define Z_MAX_ENDSTOP_INVERTING false // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.&#xA;#define Z_MIN_PROBE_ENDSTOP_INVERTING false // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have X-min enabled and inverted. When I send an M119 (endstop status code) I recieve:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Send: M119&#xA;Recv: Reporting endstop status&#xA;Recv: x_min: open&#xA;Recv: y_min: TRIGGERED&#xA;Recv: z_min: TRIGGERED&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And then when I press down the X endstop with my hand I get:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Send: M119&#xA;Recv: Reporting endstop status&#xA;Recv: x_min: open&#xA;Recv: y_min: TRIGGERED&#xA;Recv: z_min: TRIGGERED&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;-No change. There is no mechanical failure with the switches, I've tested it with a continuity tester. I have even shorted the signal and ground pins on the Ramps board with a jumper wire and I still haven't seen any change.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Where is the fault at?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4251" LastActivityDate="2023-05-19T10:49:01.260" Title="Endstops will not trigger using Marlin Firmware" Tags="|marlin|ramps-1.4|endstop|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2997" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-10-29T18:08:57.780" Score="2" ViewCount="1211" Body="&lt;p&gt;In &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/2953/how-to-control-3d-printer-printing-in-metal&quot;&gt;my last topic&lt;/a&gt; I learned that Pronterface can control powder 3D printer provided that the slicer generate g-code for printer which is printing from metal. My question is as follows. Is there a slicer (open-source or other easily accessible), which will generate g-code that will be able to command the printer which operates on the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sd3dprinting.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/08/sls.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;following principle&lt;/a&gt;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KFTzG.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KFTzG.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4649" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T13:00:58.447" LastActivityDate="2016-11-26T23:13:19.133" Title="Slicer for &quot;metal&quot; 3d printer" Tags="|slicing|pronterface|metal-printing|printing-powder|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ClosedDate="2016-11-29T17:05:33.173" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2998" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2993" CreationDate="2016-10-29T21:55:58.050" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It looks like you are not extruding at the correct rate. I would check your slicer settings for nozzle and filament size. Also check and calibrate for your filament diameter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It looks like you could be getting better adhesion too. Lulzbot recommends a 110C bed temperature. That might help. (lulzbot.com/store/filament/abs under specifications)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These are some good resources to troubleshoot prints, &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://reprap.org/wiki/Print_Troubleshooting_Pictorial_Guide#Insufficient_Material&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;RepRap&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://all3dp.com/common-3d-printing-problems-3d-printer-troubleshooting-guide/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;All3DP&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/#extruding-too-much-plastic&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Simplify3D&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4703" LastEditorUserId="98" LastEditDate="2016-11-01T14:26:55.830" LastActivityDate="2016-11-01T14:26:55.830" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2999" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3002" CreationDate="2016-10-30T06:40:38.223" Score="11" ViewCount="49370" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm using the Marlin firmware (1.1.0-RC7 - 31 July 2016) for a 3d printer. Currently the printing is not perfect due to slight inaccuracies in movements along the x and y axis. I'm trying to change the feedrate for speed along the xy axis whilst the printer is in operation to make sure the printer stops on time and prints accurately.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have some code for controlling the feedrate but the problem is that I'm not sure where I am supposed make these adjustments. In the configuration.h file I see this code: (lines 742 and 753 )&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;/*line 742*/ #define HOMING_FEEDRATE_XY (50*60) &#xA;/*line 753*/ #define DEFAULT_MAX_FEEDRATE {300, 300, 5, 25}  // (mm/sec)&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm probably misunderstanding something but it seems like this sets the feedrate to a default value which is the same as the maximum. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the feedrate changes during printing I'm guessing it would be done in Marlin_main.cpp but I'm not sure which part it actually changes. Can someone point me in the right direction here?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4715" LastEditorUserId="4715" LastEditDate="2016-10-31T19:32:07.580" LastActivityDate="2018-07-12T06:48:59.380" Title="Marlin Adjusting feedrate" Tags="|marlin|speed|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3000" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2999" CreationDate="2016-10-30T10:04:26.547" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You have the  lines to adjust the feed rate.&#xA;The first one (line 742) is relevant to the maximum feed rate XY while homing (not during printing). I think this is not an issue in your particular case and you may leave it as it is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The second one (line 753) is the feed rate while printing for XY. Particularly the numbers in the brackets refers to ( X, Y, Z, E). If your printer is moving it may affect XY more than Z and E. So you may try to adjust the first two numbers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Due to the very specific situation is impossible to give you a feed rate based on calculation because you are dealing with external accelerations caused by the mobile situation. You will need to try and adjust it until you get right.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another setting that may also help you to compensate the external acceleration, if any, is the acceleration of those two axes.You should find two lines like these:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&#xA;#define DEFAULT_MAX_ACCELERATION      {1500,1500,50,250}    &#xA;#define DEFAULT_ACCELERATION          1500    // X, Y, Z and E max acceleration in mm/s^2 for printing moves&#xA;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However the acceleration of the axes may impact on the quality of the printing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4388" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-07-12T05:59:04.050" LastActivityDate="2018-07-12T05:59:04.050" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="3001" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2993" CreationDate="2016-10-30T15:56:58.950" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;As Jmb2341 suggests, this &lt;em&gt;over extrusion&lt;/em&gt; could be due to an excessive feed rate. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I would also like to add the possibility of your Z-height during the &lt;em&gt;first layer&lt;/em&gt; being too close. For instance, if your &lt;em&gt;first layer height&lt;/em&gt; is set to &lt;strong&gt;0.4mm&lt;/strong&gt;, but your print head actually moves as close as &lt;strong&gt;0.2mm&lt;/strong&gt; from the bed, there will be twice as much filament extruded than what it is actually room for below the nozzle. This, in turn, will &lt;em&gt;appear&lt;/em&gt; like over extrusion, while the issue actually is your Z-leveling/height.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In general, unless you are using a &lt;em&gt;raft&lt;/em&gt;, the amount of first layer over extrusion will often have to be balanced with the prints ability to stick to the bed. In other words, over extrusion during the first layer improves print stickiness, so that close bed leveling gives sticky prints but first layer over extrusion; while, distant bed leveling gives loose prints with more accurate first layer extrusion. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are wondering whether what you are seeing is over extrusion due to excessive feed rate or too close bed levelling, then you should try to inspect the extrusion of the &lt;em&gt;top layer&lt;/em&gt; of some of your prints: If the top layer looks fine, your bed is leveled too close; however, if the top layer is over extruded as well, then your feed rate is too high.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="115" LastEditorUserId="115" LastEditDate="2016-11-01T15:14:49.603" LastActivityDate="2016-11-01T15:14:49.603" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3002" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2999" CreationDate="2016-10-30T18:44:52.023" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can change the &lt;em&gt;maximum&lt;/em&gt; allowable feedrate in Configuration.h, but the actual feedrate that is used isn't determined by your firmware. The feedrate is specified in the G-Code file. A command like&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;G0 X10.0 Y15.0 Z3.0 F9000&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;indicates a move to (10,15,3) at a feedrate of 9000 mm/min. If F is not specified, the last used feedrate is used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You just have to provide the appropriate G-code commands with the feedrate you want in them. There's no reason to modify the firmware to get a different feedrate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastActivityDate="2016-10-30T18:44:52.023" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3003" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2986" CreationDate="2016-10-30T19:46:00.573" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;General note, I do not have this board so I cannot test these steps myself, read the documentation in configuration.h, it is very detailed and should guide you pretty well. I am specifically looking at Marlin 1.1 RC7 on Github, so the lines below may vary slightly from what you see.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As to the pins to connect on the board for the servo, pins_RUMBA.h is where they are defined/mapped. For other boards, there is a pins_[your_board_name].h that will define the pins for any given board. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The default Servo pin for Rumba is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#define SERVO0_PIN         5&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pin 6 appears to be used for a third extruder heater.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#define HEATER_2_PIN        6   // EXTRUDER 3&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In configuration.h you must uncomment (delete the slashes &quot;//&quot; at the beginning) the lines and fill in your stow and deploy angles in the second line for the servo. Find these lines under the Z probe options heading.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;//#define Z_ENDSTOP_SERVO_NR 0&#xA;//#define Z_SERVO_ANGLES {70,0} // Z Servo Deploy and Stow angles&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Define your probe offsets from your extruder nozzle:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#define X_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER 10  // X offset: -left  +right  [of the nozzle]&#xA;#define Y_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER 10  // Y offset: -front +behind [the nozzle]&#xA;#define Z_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER 0   // Z offset: -below +above  [the nozzle]&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Based on your comment for using two z end stop switches, there is an option you must enable to use the standard end stop switch for homing, and only use the probe end stop for mesh bed leveling type operations. The config.h file has a lot of information on this, please read it for your own and your printers safety. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Uncomment this line:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;//#define Z_MIN_PROBE_ENDSTOP&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and comment this line:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#define Z_MIN_PROBE_USES_Z_MIN_ENDSTOP_PIN&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then set the carriage height to allow the z probe room to swing down and move:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#define Z_PROBE_DEPLOY_HEIGHT 15 // Raise to make room for the probe to deploy / stow&#xA;#define Z_PROBE_TRAVEL_HEIGHT 5  // Raise between probing points.&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For autobed leveling uncomment:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;//#define AUTO_BED_LEVELING_FEATURE // Delete the comment to enable&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then set probe points corners: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#if ENABLED(AUTO_BED_LEVELING_GRID)&#xA;&#xA;#define LEFT_PROBE_BED_POSITION 15&#xA;#define RIGHT_PROBE_BED_POSITION 170&#xA;#define FRONT_PROBE_BED_POSITION 20&#xA;#define BACK_PROBE_BED_POSITION 170&#xA;&#xA;#define MIN_PROBE_EDGE 10 // The Z probe minimum square sides can be no smaller than this.&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Set the number of points to probe in each direction (x and y), default is 2, so it will probe 4 locations, the other common choice is 3, so it will probe a grid of 9 locations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;// Set the number of grid points per dimension.&#xA;// You probably don't need more than 3 (squared=9).&#xA;#define AUTO_BED_LEVELING_GRID_POINTS 2&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That should be everything you need for a basic setup, although there are more options that I did not go through. Please look at all the documentation comments in configuration.h file as it is very comprehensive, even if it can be a bit confusing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope this helps!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4654" LastActivityDate="2016-10-30T19:46:00.573" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3004" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2950" CreationDate="2016-10-30T20:07:35.387" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Vectors do not drive the extrusion nozzles in current software. There are methods to take vectors and create a solid model with them which can be used. The standard workflow is to take a solid model, save it in the STL format, and then import the STL file into the slicing software and outputs Gcode with contain coordinates for the extrusion nozzle to move to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have not seen any software that will create just the infill geometry without any bounding surfaces. This would be such a specific use case that it is unlikely to appear in current software. That is not to say that it couldn't be done, but you would likely have to implement such a feature yourself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4654" LastActivityDate="2016-10-30T20:07:35.387" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3005" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="652" CreationDate="2016-10-30T20:17:43.603" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sli3er will control the bed temperature during a print. The options in Pronterface can be used to pre-heat the bed and hot end, or to adjust the temperature during a print. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The slicer will put the temperatures you set in the filament tab settings into the gcode at the appropriate layers. As the printer reads these codes it will adjust the temperatures. If you manually change the temperature, it will stay at your adjustment until it encounters a line in the gcode file that tells it to change again. Usually this only happens at the start of a print, or at the transition from the first layer to the second layer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you change the filament settings in Slic3r, they do not save automatically, so if you changed them, closed the program without saving your filament settings, and opened it later, the changes would be lost. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other place where temperature can be changed from is in the custom gcode settings, where you can specify operations to be performed at the start of the print, in between layers, or at the end of the print. Take a look there and make sure that there are no codes to change temperature in any of these fields.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4654" LastActivityDate="2016-10-30T20:17:43.603" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3006" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2950" CreationDate="2016-10-30T22:59:20.713" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just for the fun of it and perhaps to contribute to this question, I opened my recent task in Simplify3d slicing software. Setting the perimeter walls and top/bottom surfaces to zero did not generate an error as I expected.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The print preview, essentially a g-code viewer, presented the model as only the honeycomb infill for which it was configured. Having zero layer thickness for the top/bottom also prevented features from printing that were composed of only walls without infill. Small details that otherwise print well were lost completely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can see that properly designed models printed with certain infill patterns and percentages would be quite artistic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With respect to the first question, one could create a program to accomplish the desired result if one were an experienced programmer. It would be a matter of converting a specific set of vectors into g-code for the printer. I'm familiar enough with g-code to know that a well defined curve is easy enough to create in g-code but only if the mechanicals support arcs. If not, it's not so easy. The conversion from a vector format file to g-code would require a talented programmer indeed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suspect there are talented programmers &quot;out there,&quot; but one must be suitably skilled and equally suitably motivated, yes?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nH6uq.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nH6uq.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Print prview, of object with walls and surfaces set to zero, showing honeycomb structure&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2016-11-22T15:43:17.217" LastActivityDate="2016-11-22T15:43:17.217" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3007" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2950" CreationDate="2016-10-31T16:01:46.337" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's not difficult to write software that converts a curve to gcode (break the curve into small lines and emit a G1 command for each line) - however, it's way easier to work with solids since the toolchain supports solid really well and curves not at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just create a solid with your curve as a wall and everything works.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the second question, no top/bottom works with every slicer I tried (set the top/bottom to 0 layers/height) - Cura seems to support no walls by setting shells to 0 (but I only checked layers view, I didn't try to print).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="170" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2016-11-22T15:42:32.340" LastActivityDate="2016-11-22T15:42:32.340" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3008" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-11-01T03:37:01.813" Score="4" ViewCount="4199" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm currently using Marlin firmware (1.1.0-RC7 - 31 July 2016) and would like to experiment with print speed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the file &lt;code&gt;Marlin_main.cpp&lt;/code&gt; I see in the &lt;code&gt;process_next_command()&lt;/code&gt; function, there is a variable called &lt;code&gt;current_command&lt;/code&gt; which (supposedly) holds the G-Code values for travel distance and feedrate(speed). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm expecting the actual command for travelling to look something like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;G1 X50 Y25.3 E22.4 F1500 &#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;but I'm getting tied up figuring out exactly where it is. I'm assuming if I can change &lt;code&gt;F1500&lt;/code&gt; to &lt;code&gt;F200&lt;/code&gt;, I can effectively slow down the print speed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm aware of line 753 in the &lt;code&gt;configuration.h&lt;/code&gt; file:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#define DEFAULT_MAX_FEEDRATE {300, 300, 5, 25}  // (mm/sec)&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not interested in setting a fixed slow feedrate but would rather change individual G-Code commands. Can someone tell me where I can find the actual G-Code command to edit it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4715" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2016-11-21T07:06:22.287" LastActivityDate="2016-11-21T07:06:22.287" Title="Marlin - slowing down print speed" Tags="|marlin|g-code|speed|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3009" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3008" CreationDate="2016-11-01T07:53:24.020" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;G-code commands are not in the firmware&lt;/strong&gt;. You're trying to find something in the code that simply isn't there. Your slicer is responsible for generating a g-code file, which you can then send to your printer (either by printing from an SD-card) or using a host program like repetier or cura. The commands in the G-code file are then executed by the firmware, but they're not part of it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How the commands are actually processed is not trivial, and it happens in multiple places.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The commands are processed in the &lt;code&gt;process_commands&lt;/code&gt; of Marlin_main.cpp. Upon reading a G1 command, it calls &lt;code&gt;get_coordinates&lt;/code&gt; to parse the X/Y/Z/feedrate values from the command. Next, the &lt;code&gt;prepare_move&lt;/code&gt; function is called, which applies the necessary transformations (clamping to endstops, and the reverse kinematics if you have a delta) before calling &lt;code&gt;plan_buffer_line&lt;/code&gt; (which is in &lt;code&gt;planner.cpp&lt;/code&gt;) which does some more preprocessing and computes a &quot;block&quot; which is pushed onto the buffer. Next, &lt;code&gt;planner_recalculate&lt;/code&gt; is called, which iterates over the blocks to find feasible acceleration patterns for them. Finally, an interrupt (in stepper.cpp, &lt;code&gt;ISR(TIMER1_COMPA_vect)&lt;/code&gt;) periodically reads blocks from the buffer and actually sends the signals to the steppers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastEditorUserId="26" LastEditDate="2016-11-01T18:48:59.760" LastActivityDate="2016-11-01T18:48:59.760" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3010" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2916" CreationDate="2016-11-02T02:34:39.987" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;This photo isn't exact, but may help&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: Whoops! Forgot to include source. This is from the Wanhao User Manual/Build Guide. I can't quite find the webpage at the moment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YUC45.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YUC45.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="107" LastEditorUserId="107" LastEditDate="2016-11-04T01:19:20.710" LastActivityDate="2016-11-04T01:19:20.710" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3011" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2955" CreationDate="2016-11-02T14:54:24.230" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It looks like possibly a combination of too high of extruder temperature and poor retraction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;First, try &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;reducing your extruder temperature&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;. PLA ideal extruder temps range from about 185C to 225C; depending on purity, quality, and climate. This can help prevent additional oozing and clogging. If your extruder clogs easily, you probably have too high of temperature.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;After you've verified you have correct extrusion temperature. Try &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;finding/adjusting retraction settings&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; in your preferred slicing engine. Here's a good troubleshoot page from &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/#blobs-and-zits&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Simplify3D's website&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="98" LastActivityDate="2016-11-02T14:54:24.230" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3012" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3014" CreationDate="2016-11-02T16:52:21.587" Score="4" ViewCount="769" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've posted an issue on GitHub and I have been advised to load RCBugFix.&#xA;I have never used it and I do not know what is about.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is it?&#xA;How does it work?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4388" LastActivityDate="2017-05-31T10:16:32.573" Title="RCBugFix what is it?" Tags="|marlin|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3013" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-11-02T16:52:59.423" Score="7" ViewCount="1401" Body="&lt;p&gt;A few weeks ago a shift between layers in the y-direction (from the front to the back of the printer) of my Makerbot Replicator 2 appeared. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All prints have some small shifts between layers, but if the extruder has to move large distances (e.g. when I print the same object near the front and near the back of the print bed), they can reach up to 2 cm or so. In those cases the extruder seem to move the wrong distance towards the back, resulting in a shifted layer, and then moves about the same distance towards the front. Therefore objects at the front of the bed often are shifted less than at the back.  Here's an example of some small shifts in the 3D benchy (printed near the front of the bed). They are particularly obvious in the hull and in the supports of the cabin:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mFZ3f.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mFZ3f.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;3D Benchy with shifted layers&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've tightened the pulleys, lubricated the rods, restored the device to factory settings and made sure the connectors are plugged in properly, but the problems persist. I also have the impression that the locations of the shifted layers are quite reproducible. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From what I understand problems such as these along the x-axis, are generally caused by broken cables, which are pressed upon as the extruder moves. However, the pulley for the y-axis doesn't move, so it seems unlikely that the cable is the cause.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any help is very much appreciated!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4757" LastActivityDate="2016-12-22T14:29:27.813" Title="Shifted Layers on Replicator 2" Tags="|print-quality|makerbot|calibration|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2016-12-22T15:04:38.930" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3014" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3012" CreationDate="2016-11-03T08:17:25.260" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;It refers to a specific branch of the current project, named &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/tree/RCBugFix&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;RCBugFix&lt;/a&gt;. It's basically the most up-to-date, bleeding edge version of Marlin that contains all of the most recent fixes (it is more up-to-date than RC). However, as it's so up-to-date, it's also not thoroughly tested and possibly quite unstable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The latest Release Candidate lives in the &quot;RC&quot; branch. Bugs that we find in the current Release Candidate are patched in the &quot;RCBugFix&quot; branch, so during beta testing this is where you can always find the latest code on its way towards release.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Use with caution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastActivityDate="2016-11-03T08:17:25.260" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3015" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8287" CreationDate="2016-11-03T21:36:24.987" Score="9" ViewCount="1650" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been studying the differences between version 2.x and version 4 of the &lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/wiki/P3Steel&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;P3Steel frames&lt;/a&gt; - in particular the AC08 bracket at the top of the frame which secures the top of the smooth bars and threaded rods of the Z axis on both the left and right sides. Here is the laser cut parts, for version 1.x, showing the part labelled as AC08:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2AN9z.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2AN9z.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Laser cut parts for P3Steel v1&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Version 1.x/2.x has the AC08 bracket with two holes, one for the threaded rod and one for the top of the smooth bar (from the &lt;a href=&quot;http://reprap.org/wiki/P3Steel_Vitamins#Lasercut_parts&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;lasercut image&lt;/a&gt;):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6yZMo.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6yZMo.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;P3Steel v2 Z axis top bracket&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, in version 4, the corresponding top Z axis bracket only has one hole for the smooth bar and just an indentation for the bearing which holds the top of the threaded rod (from &lt;a href=&quot;https://twitter.com/AlvaroReyRdz/status/738406531943763968&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Twitter&lt;/a&gt;):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MZe2i.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MZe2i.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;P3Steel v4 Z axis top bracket&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a close up of the &lt;a href=&quot;https://drive.google.com/open?id=0BxUhvFbuwEAZNjA0dUhwNmFMd2c&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;diagram&lt;/a&gt; from the &lt;a href=&quot;https://drive.google.com/open?id=0BxUhvFbuwEAZfkJDUUE0bm1pTXNfMFRKemdUUzJNZ2xIT0xybFJLdmdyQV9MZGFpcG42UlE&amp;amp;authuser=0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;google docs repository&lt;/a&gt;, listed in the &lt;a href=&quot;http://reprap.org/wiki/P3Steel#Frame_versions&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;v4 section&lt;/a&gt; on the RepRap Wiki page for the P3Steel, which shows the bearing assembly just apparently &quot;resting&quot; against the indentation:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dAVUM.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dAVUM.png&quot; alt=&quot;Close up of P3Steel Z axis top bracket&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is the bracket shown with the bar and threaded rod (again, from &lt;a href=&quot;https://drive.google.com/file/d/0BxUhvFbuwEAZQjkyTDM3SndMSTA/view&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;google docs&lt;/a&gt;):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/X0fcG.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/X0fcG.png&quot; alt=&quot;P3Steel v4 z axis top bracket&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know why the top of the threaded rod is not secured by a hole, as it was in version 1.x/2.x? It just does not look particularly well secured.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Under the list of version 4 changes, see &lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/wiki/P3Steel#Frame_versions&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;2. Frame versions&lt;/a&gt;, it is mentioned:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The extruder no longer hits the Z axis top bracket&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this the reason why the change has been made?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4762" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-07-29T23:16:26.697" LastActivityDate="2022-06-12T18:12:43.647" Title="Z axis top brackets, of P3Steel, differ between v1.x/2.x and v4" Tags="|prusa-i3|p3steel|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="3018" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2986" CreationDate="2016-11-05T09:42:03.643" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;For future reference.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My issue about the servo not moving was caused by a wiring mistake.&#xA;The Exp. 3 has 14 pins has per this diagram.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/g4yyn.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/g4yyn.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However when phisically looking at the board, what you see is this:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/51eF6.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/51eF6.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I took the first 2 pins on the right of such connector and the 3rd one of the first row thinking that I was connecting pins 2-4-5 of Exp. 3.&#xA;I was wrong, because the first 2 (1-2) pins are not part of Exp. 3.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The right way to connect the servo is as following:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nDWcX.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nDWcX.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then use PWM1 (pin 5 Ext.3)&#xA;I decided to leave trace of this issue and the relevant solution for someone that may experience the same issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4388" LastActivityDate="2016-11-05T09:42:03.643" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3022" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2979" CreationDate="2016-11-07T19:50:05.413" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can make flat reflectors with glass panels or acrylic panels and apply window mirror film. Ordinary window glass might be less expensive than acrylic and many places will cut to size, but unusual shapes might not be an option. The mirror film is relatively easy to apply and the packages have instructions included.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the hologram pyramid you referenced, one could 3d print the bracket at the base. If your design is different, yet similar, that's an option for relatively easy construction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;100-200 pieces is really too small of a quantity to justify expensive injection molding. If the part is not too complex, one could create the model with 3d printing, then build a silicone mold around it, followed by pouring polyester or epoxy casting resin to make larger quantities. A better idea of the shape would be useful, but the information I've provided may head you in a practical direction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastActivityDate="2016-11-07T19:50:05.413" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3023" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3037" CreationDate="2016-11-07T20:37:56.777" Score="7" ViewCount="14166" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had my printer printing fine when using the stock trigger switch as I used it to print the green bracket you see in the picture. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6kxYw.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6kxYw.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Photo of probe atached to hotend&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My problem now is when I do a print with the sensor, it moves to 0,0 position. However in this position the sensor is hanging off the bed hence there is nothing for it detect so it crashes into the bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as I can tell the nozzle is homing in the right place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do I tell Marlin the new minimum position it needs to be in so it doesn't crash into the bed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4408" LastEditorUserId="854" LastEditDate="2016-11-21T16:39:39.260" LastActivityDate="2019-07-11T20:43:32.260" Title="How to offset my probe so it's not hanging off the bed at 0, 0 position when printing" Tags="|diy-3d-printer|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3024" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3026" CreationDate="2016-11-07T22:46:36.773" Score="3" ViewCount="276" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking to make 20-30 IoT devices, with the pi zero.&#xA;The price point is perfect, the only downside is that it doesn't have an Ethernet jack and the power adapter is not included.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found a mod that deals with both of these issues, however it would involve a lot of soldering. The mod takes a USB to Ethernet adapter and 48 to 5 volt converter and allows the device to be both powered and connected to the internet with just an Ethernet cable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With 3D printing or Milling is it possible to make something that snap fits the components together and mitigate a lot of soldering?&#xA;Is it possible to print or mill something that will do the 48 to 5 volt conversion?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Components:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Two male micro USB heads&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;48 to 5 volt converter&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ethernet adapter board&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pi zero&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xqgyX.gif&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xqgyX.gif&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4817" LastActivityDate="2016-11-08T13:13:28.090" Title="Power Over Ethernet (Pi Zero Mod)" Tags="|raspberry-pi|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2016-11-13T18:05:06.813" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3026" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3024" CreationDate="2016-11-08T12:58:22.770" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.instructables.com/id/3D-Printing-3D-Print-A-Solderless-Circuit-Board/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;3D Print A Solderless Circuit Board&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think this was the solution I was looking for, unless someone else knows a method that's cheaper, faster, safer, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4817" LastEditorUserId="4817" LastEditDate="2016-11-08T13:13:28.090" LastActivityDate="2016-11-08T13:13:28.090" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3027" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-11-08T19:22:30.303" Score="7" ViewCount="1057" Body="&lt;p&gt;We all know (or should!) that the repeatability of common spring-arm limit switches is crappy at best.  I'm looking to build &amp;amp; install one of the precision height adjusters for the Z-axis limit switch, and noticed a post on some forum suggesting removing the arm and triggering the switch button directly (e.g. with a screw end).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has anyone tried this, and if so has the repeatability of Z-homing improved any?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Edit&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sorry -- this is a stock Prusa i3, which depends on physical contact between the vertically-moving subassembly and a microswitch mounted on the frame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2191" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:29:41.667" LastActivityDate="2018-08-11T11:27:41.963" Title="Is cutting the arm off the Z-axis switch a good idea?" Tags="|prusa-i3|z-axis|endstop|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3028" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3029" CreationDate="2016-11-08T22:00:24.473" Score="10" ViewCount="20254" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've tried looking online but haven't quite found the answer to what I'm confused about, exactly. Consider the following 3 lines of G-code:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;G1 X129.000 Y126.322 E7.90758&#xA;&#xA;G1 X128.349 Y125.707 F7800.000&#xA;&#xA;G1 X128.476 Y125.548 E7.92045 F1800.000&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does the absence of an E command in the second line mean that no material is to be extruded from line 1 to line 2? As I understand it, the E parameter controls how much material has been extruded up to that line.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason why I am asking is because I'm trying to understand on the code level how to identify when a printer will travel without extruding any material, in the case of moving in the Z direction, or if you are printing multiple disconnected parts in one print. Since none of the Z lines seem to have any E commands, I'm inclined to believe that the absence of an E command means that when moving to the given position from the previous line, no material will be extruded. I've tried quite a few different queries online to try to discover if this is the case, but haven't found a simple answer, so I was hoping someone on this board could enlighten me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4831" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2016-11-21T07:06:00.913" LastActivityDate="2016-11-21T07:06:00.913" Title="How do the E commands in G-code work, exactly?" Tags="|g-code|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3029" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3028" CreationDate="2016-11-08T22:25:22.233" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, the absense of an EX.XXX (or an EX.XXX with the same value as the previous one) means nothing will be extruded during the move. The extruder is treated as an imaginary fourth axis and works exactly the same as any other axis: if in a G1/G0 no new coordinate for it is specified, it retains its original position.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastActivityDate="2016-11-08T22:25:22.233" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3031" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-11-09T15:50:43.647" Score="5" ViewCount="4220" Body="&lt;p&gt;I finally manage to setup the ABL on my Prusa.&#xA;I run G28 to home all axes (for z I use the same probe used for ABL). Then&#xA;I run G29 E ( I use E because otherwise for some reason I have not understood yet, Z does not lift during probings) probing 4 points on the corners of the bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;finally I get the map of the bed:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Bed Level Correction Matrix:&#xA;+0.999999 +0.000000 +0.001233&#xA;-0.000005 +0.999992 +0.003905&#xA;-0.001233 -0.003905 +0.999992&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and after that, the print starts.&#xA;The first layer looks perfect however I have not seen Z moving a single step along the printing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any hint about what to check? Is the obtained map indicating that the bed is already too leveled to act on any compensation?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;UPDATE&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;I printed a 180 mm diamater cylinder and the Z axis is not compensating the 1mm difference from edge to edge of the bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4388" LastEditorUserId="4388" LastEditDate="2016-11-10T08:35:32.477" LastActivityDate="2016-11-10T10:54:57.707" Title="Autobed leveling doesn't compensate" Tags="|marlin|z-probe|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3032" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3031" CreationDate="2016-11-09T19:59:04.193" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I believe that the matrix is shown transposed from how it should be, but that doesn't affect the answer. The compensated Z position is derived from the original &lt;code&gt;(X,Y,Z)&lt;/code&gt; position by multiplying the corresponding vector with that matrix. This means that the new Z position would be&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Z' = 0.999992Z - 0.001233X - 0.003905Y&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have a 200 x 200 printbed, a diagonal move from one corner to the other would correspond to a 1mm change in Z-height. This should be noticeable, but if perhaps you're printing something quite small you might not notice it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Though, if your first layer is perfect, I would see no reason to mess with it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastActivityDate="2016-11-09T19:59:04.193" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3033" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3027" CreationDate="2016-11-09T23:18:11.973" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;No. Buy a better switch if it's an issue (see below).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You would need to have some very tight tolerances to hit that micro button with whatever your arm is. If you had a machine with good tolerances you would not be considering this modification. That alone is why I would say this is not the greatest idea.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Following it might work if your Z is connected to the hot end and smashing into the bed. But I suspect you will still have a myriad of issues, such as the switch getting out of position enough to cause the head to crash into the machine. The real question now is how many rotations of the Z axis could happen if the printer is moving at maximum speed and the button is pressed? That metal arm is your grace period. Now your printer is potentially smashing into the switch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lastly, just get a switch with a more solid and less springy metal tab.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The real question is whether there is actually a variance caused by the metal arm? I would suspect that it hits the switch very precisely, consistently and within an acceptable tolerance. Removing the arm will buy you little. Replacing it with a stiffer-arm switch might serve you better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2146" LastEditorUserId="854" LastEditDate="2016-11-22T12:01:37.177" LastActivityDate="2016-11-22T12:01:37.177" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3034" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3031" CreationDate="2016-11-10T10:54:57.707" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found the issue. As I mentioned in my question UPDATE, trying to print something that cover the full bed, the ABL was not working.&#xA;The issue was the Gcode I added after the G29.&#xA;In fact for some reason I added a G28 X0 after the G29 and that basically cancel the data acquired in the G29.&#xA;I learned something new, do not use G28 after G29!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now it is working nicely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4388" LastActivityDate="2016-11-10T10:54:57.707" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3035" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="421" CreationDate="2016-11-10T20:39:22.490" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would look into what Hershey did for this chocolate printer in junction with 3ds. Behold state of the art Chocolate 3d printing.. The&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://richport3d.com/2015/02/17/3d-systems-unveils-the-cocojettm/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;CocoJett&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said there is little said about their tank system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Far as the actual question it self. There is nothing to facilitate a large pool of continuous chocolate. It would be easy enough to build something that stirred the chocolate and a pump that feeds it in. At that point we are talking about a fair amount of new engineering. One could figure out how to map the E extrusion to a pump that would refill what was spent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This section is just a bit of speculation.. &#xA;I wonder. It seems to me that the way to go for XL coco printing would be powder. Bind it with an edible adhesive (hot sugar water maybe?). Have the printer refrigerated. Or just have a simple system that can change out the syringes of coco. Last you could just pause it while you change syringes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2146" LastEditorUserId="2146" LastEditDate="2016-11-13T05:18:36.787" LastActivityDate="2016-11-13T05:18:36.787" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3037" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3023" CreationDate="2016-11-11T09:37:58.263" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are at least 2 options to address the problem that you have:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Adjust end-stops so that in 0,0 position Z-sensor would still hang above the printing table. This would reduce printing surface but allow perfect calibration&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mount extra metal plate at the table mount where it would not bump into printer parts and remain reachable for the sensor (perhaps with sensor relocation) when positioned at 0,0. This option requires extra space within table movement boundaries but saves printing surface.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3839" LastActivityDate="2016-11-11T09:37:58.263" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3039" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3027" CreationDate="2016-11-12T00:19:25.920" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;While I haven't seen this on a Z axis for a printer personally, there is no reason it wouldn't work, and would improve your repeatability in theory. Removing the arm on the switch is taking away the lever. Going back to simple machine mechanics, the lever gives you a larger range of motion in which the button could be triggered, with the tradeoff that you get a larger target to hit. How much of an improvement depends on the exact switch, where the button is compared to the axis of the switch, and how long the switch is. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My Shapeoko 3 CNC router has a switch for all three end stops that do not have arms, and my Original Prusa i3 mk2 has switches without lever arms on X and Y axis endstops, so there is is no reason it won't work for your i3 Z axis, you just need to make sure you can accurately hit the small button on the switch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4654" LastActivityDate="2016-11-12T00:19:25.920" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3040" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2996" CreationDate="2016-11-12T00:59:46.650" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;try uncommenting the following lines to enable endstop detection on all pins for troubleshooting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;//#define USE_XMAX_PLUG false&#xA;//#define USE_YMAX_PLUG false&#xA;//#define USE_ZMAX_PLUG false&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This way the M119 will show any changes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only thing I can think of is that either the switch is plugged into the wrong pin on the ramps board (Max instead of Min) or the switch doesn't require the pullup (your could try commenting that back as a second test as well)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4863" LastActivityDate="2016-11-12T00:59:46.650" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3041" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-11-12T22:55:29.563" Score="1" ViewCount="203" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am running crazy trying to install Slic3r on my Kubuntu 14.04. It is a fresh Kubuntu and I downloaded the Slic3r package from them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At first it worked well but then I changed the display driver to NVIDIA instead of the default Nouveau. I have repeated this operation a couple of times and I am almost sure that the NVIDIA driver screws up my system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have read and followed several &quot;SOLVED&quot; posts but none of them gave me a solution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4870" LastEditorUserId="98" LastEditDate="2017-01-03T23:25:51.900" LastActivityDate="2017-04-18T14:59:30.817" Title="Installing Slic3r on Kubuntu 14.04 with NVIDIA" Tags="|software|slic3r|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3043" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3044" CreationDate="2016-11-14T07:45:04.707" Score="5" ViewCount="200" Body="&lt;p&gt;When 3D-printing on an 20*20cm, I've heard that the quality of the printings get worse if I fill out the board... Is it true? Should I keep it to small amounts at the time or doesn't it matter?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4885" LastActivityDate="2016-11-14T23:02:06.810" Title="Does the amount of figures on the board matter?" Tags="|print-quality|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3044" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3043" CreationDate="2016-11-14T08:06:48.047" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, that's not (entirely) true. There might be some loss of quality if you print multiple objects at once, because when the printhead &quot;hops&quot; from one object to another it might leave a mark or ooze out some material. Also, a large number of retractions in a short period of time might lead to inconsistent extrusion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, none of this is particular to &quot;filling out the board&quot; as it happens even if you print only two objects at a time (or even when you're printing only one object with multiple islands).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It all depends on your printer (and in particular how well it handles retractions). If you're willing to do a small amount of cleanup afterwards (to remove the strings and blobs) then printing multiple objects at a time is completely viable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastActivityDate="2016-11-14T08:06:48.047" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3045" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3043" CreationDate="2016-11-14T12:56:54.453" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;This would depend on what type of printer you have and to some extent, the design of the printer.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cartesian (i3 style) - Should not have any issues printing a full bed.  I have seen designs and variants of printers where the designer did not make the belts parallel to the travel axis (placing the mounting point on the carriage higher/lower than where it come off the pulley/idler) so as you move closer to the pulley/idler the angle starts to change dramatically.  While not extreme, this will introduce error in that axis. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;H-Bot/CoreXY - Should not have any issues with a full bed as nothing is changing depending on hotend location.  I know there has been some concern about keeping the gantry square on H-Bot designs due to the way the motors pull when moving in certain directions but I believe that applies to the entire print area.  Both designs will have issues if belt travel is not parallel to axis travel as stated in the cartesian section.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Delta (Kossel/Rostock) - Have a varying axis resolution depending on the location of the hotend.  As the hotend gets close to an individual tower, the carriage on that tower has to move very little to move the hotend which depending on your pulley selection could affect your print resolution.  The sweet spot for a delta in terms of speed/resolution is the center of the bed.  The center is not the highest resolution but is the largest area where the resolution is relatively stable.  I've tried to summarize all that I could from &lt;a href=&quot;http://blog.rymnd.com/delta-kinematics-1/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;here,&lt;/a&gt; but I've included the link if you wanted to read more about it or see the graphs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, as Tom covered. All three above will have issues with the entire bed depending on your hotend calibration and how well your printer was built. Delta's are fussy about build quality but you will solve most issues on a Delta if you level the bed before using any kind of bed leveling/probing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="233" LastEditorUserId="233" LastEditDate="2016-11-14T16:41:50.997" LastActivityDate="2016-11-14T16:41:50.997" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3046" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3043" CreationDate="2016-11-14T23:02:06.810" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just to add to the other answers already here, I've also had problems with layer adhesion when filling up the print bed on an extrusion printer.  The longer the print head spends working on details around a single layer, the more chance the layer has to cool off before the next layer gets started.  I've started to suspect that layers that take longer to print end up with less adhesion to the next layer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1400" LastActivityDate="2016-11-14T23:02:06.810" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3047" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3049" CreationDate="2016-11-15T01:33:13.743" Score="5" ViewCount="1499" Body="&lt;p&gt;I cleaned up my Flashforge Creator Dual tonight, and loaded some transparent ABS prepping for a print.  The filament extruded fine, then started to wiggle, then became fine again.  Hot end is 0.4 mm and was heated to 230C.  What sort of steps should I take to troubleshoot the issue?  Has anyone seen this before?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ffssj.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ffssj.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Photo of extruded filament exhibiting wiggles&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1397" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2016-11-22T02:48:37.457" LastActivityDate="2016-11-22T11:36:42.340" Title="While filament loading extruded filament wiggles" Tags="|filament|troubleshooting|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3048" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3047" CreationDate="2016-11-15T01:53:36.317" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the filament displayed in the photo is the result of unimpeded extrusion from your nozzle, you don't have or have not described a problem. Filament extruded from a hot nozzle will react to many things. If a slight air temperature change is created on one side of the extruding filament, it will cool faster than the other side and curve in the direction of the cooler temperatures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If there is a bit of old filament on the tip of the nozzle, it can cause the filament to hook back on itself, creating an interesting squiggle of filament before the weight is sufficient to cause it to drop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A typical 3d printer problem is related to the results of a print or an obvious mechanical failure. Wiggly extruded filament is not a symptom of a looming failure, unless you have other indicators.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastActivityDate="2016-11-15T01:53:36.317" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3049" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3047" CreationDate="2016-11-15T05:40:19.253" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It might be similar &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/1085/why-does-my-pla-filament-form-a-spiral-shape-and-clog-my-extruder&quot;&gt;to this issue&lt;/a&gt; (where teflon tube wasn't installed what caused softening filament inside heatsink)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please check if your extruder is equipped with proper pipe inside (inner pipe diameter).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But the most probable cause is that a pipe had slide out so filament has enough room to get soft and to form such shape going out. &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/904/teflon-tubing-in-nozzle-throat-coming-out&quot;&gt;Please take a look also here.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a situation and its evolution.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8u96H.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8u96H.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;fig. A:&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;1. filament&#xA;2. teflon tube (well positioned)&#xA;3. heatsink&#xA;4. nozzle&#xA;5. extruded filament&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;fig. B:&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;6. slided out teflon tube&#xA;7. empty space (heat)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;fig. C:&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;8. bent filament&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;fig. D:&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;9. teflon tube&#xA;10. no extrusion&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;How it happens?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Teflon tube is usually well positioned so everything is fine in most cases. Sometimes because of poor filament (not-constant diameter) or because of bends on filament, teflon tube is slided out os its place while retraction. It goes on and on, up and up (fig.B)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once tube is extended that much so filament starts to bend in empty (heat) space (fig.C) It increases the effect of sliding out teflon tube just because of bend (it works as a hook). But it can still work. Teflon tube can even be pressed back inside the nest.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now because the empty space is heat then filament starts to melt (for example when there is no extrusion for a second) it becomes soft. When filament is soft enough it doesn't extrude as the force to press it throught the nozzle is too high for such soft material so filement definitely stops extruding itself. (fig.D) This situation cannot be fixed automatically. There is a need of user intervention.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now you know why some extruders has a rim (or collar) on the top of heat barier tube. It secures a teflon tube from sliding out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1211" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T13:00:58.447" LastActivityDate="2016-11-22T11:36:42.340" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3050" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3051" CreationDate="2016-11-15T12:51:23.607" Score="3" ViewCount="334" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've recently designed a non-self-aligning caged deep-groove ball bearing. Now I'd love to get one 3D printed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, assembling those can be tricky and I highly doubt it's even plausible to print them. All the components themselves can be printed without a problem, but I'm not sure whether I'll be able to put them all together in the end.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are my options?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;FDM printers are probably out, although it would be great if I can find a way to use those. Would an SLA or perhaps an SLS printer be able to pull it off?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course the thing still has to work (move) in the end.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OuWFEm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OuWFEm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Caged deep-grooved ball bearing - MatVis&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4897" LastEditorUserId="20" LastEditDate="2016-11-15T17:37:23.670" LastActivityDate="2016-11-15T18:19:09.020" Title="Printing a non-self-aligning caged deep-groove ball bearing" Tags="|3d-models|3d-design|mechanics|sls|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3051" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3050" CreationDate="2016-11-15T16:49:08.010" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Two aspects of your question can immediately be addressed, one with much less certainty than the other.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you were to print the indicated parts using PLA on an FDM printer and assembled as much as possible up to say, the outer bearing ring, you might be able to use boiling water to soften the ring with boiling water enough to get it around the balls. It's also possible that the deformation will effectively destroy the usefulness of the part.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other item, SLS is virtually perfect for this type of part. The un-sintered nylon powder provides positional support for all of the other parts being sintered. When the print is completed, the powder is blown out with high pressure air, freeing up the individual components as per the original design.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Be advised that there is to be expected some shrinkage of the parts which will affect any segment of the component that has tight or close clearances.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From Shapeways site regarding SLS printed parts (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.shapeways.com/tutorials/designing_mechanical_parts_for_3d_printing&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Shapeways&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Executive summary:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;maintain a wall thickness of at least 1mm,&#xA;accuracy is 0.1mm,&#xA;always keep a clearance of 0.6mm&#xA;and parts may have a deviation of 0.2mm.&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When designing something mechanical that has to be 3D printed or when adding a mechanical feature to your model there are several main considerations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also listed in the above link are the considerations of enclosed parts. Each of the balls in the bearing design may or will be printed as a hollow sphere filled with nylon powder. The bearing rings will also be printed as shells, unless appropriate steps are taken to make them solid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By the same token, if a part need not be solid and can be designed with holes to &quot;drain out&quot; the un-sintered powder, the cost will be reduced accordingly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastActivityDate="2016-11-15T16:49:08.010" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3052" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3050" CreationDate="2016-11-15T18:19:09.020" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;How about using a dual nozzle FDM printer with ABS and HIPS?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can use HIPS to print any support materials or any spacers that you need.  The HIPS can then be dissolved using Limonene.  Limonene will not do much of anything to ABS.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Similar ball bearings have been printed like this before.  I am not aware of any reason this would not work for you.  Other types of ball bearings have been printed in FDM with no support material.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36" LastActivityDate="2016-11-15T18:19:09.020" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3053" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-11-15T19:18:04.467" Score="3" ViewCount="142" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought a 3D printer kit a few years ago, and it's been working pretty well, the kit was made with injection molded parts. -- It's similar to a Huxley, and through the years, it's started to turn into a repstrap as I've repaired it with non-printed parts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The parts are all open source and the STLs are provided by the maker, but they're optimized for injection molding, so instead of having flat surfaces, the surfaces usually have a lot of extra support going on -- here's an example of what I'm talking about:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/895wm.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/895wm.png&quot; alt=&quot;Injection Molded STL&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mind you, this is one of the simpler parts. -- But mostly I just want to clean these parts up -- make the edges flat by &quot;filling in&quot; these gaps (because: 1. it will print easier, 2. I can let my slicer handle the infill for me, etc.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Currently, I've been using mostly TinkerCad and trying to make little rectangles and other shapes and boolean union them together to fill these gaps.  But this is a lot of work, trying to get it just right without covering up important gaps or leaving pockets in the middle of the part is very time consuming and error prone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally, I'd like to be able to make minor beveled edges so that the parts are easy to peel up. -- I currently do this with boolean subtractions of a bevel shape I made (again, in TinkerCad).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any software out there that makes these options easier? -- What's the easiest way to fill in these gaps and add beveled edges? -- I'm hoping to spend no more than 10 to 15 minutes per part.  (Right now, it's hours.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4472" LastActivityDate="2016-11-15T21:02:04.467" Title="Converting Injection Molded STLs to printable STLs" Tags="|3d-design|cad|repair|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2016-11-29T17:06:59.983" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3054" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3053" CreationDate="2016-11-15T20:41:10.767" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Although the foundation of your question is aimed at getting an opinion, I find nothing wrong with that, as long as answers are provided with an equal foundation based on facts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm a fan of Meshmixer (free) but it's not well suited for this project, in my belief (opinion) as it's primarily aimed at organic modeling. On the flip side of this point is the fact that you have a working STL from which to build. Meshmixer will enable you to extrude the portions that sit below the surface level and create a flat plane. You can also &quot;bridge&quot; the elevated portions into a plane, but only if you remove the lower panels first. Leaving them in place creates an unprintable model.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, Meshmixer has its own learning curve. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Along the same train of thought, Blender (free) is suited for performing similar tasks, again aimed at organic models. Again, starting with your STL makes it less of a complication.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately, in my opinion, Blender's learning curve is substantially steeper, as the program does many things unrelated to 3d printing. It has spectacular control over the model and if you are able to learn the necessary controls and sequences, there isn't anything you can't do with it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Meshmixer is more intuitive than Blender and therefore easier to learn. You may also find it easier to find YouTube resources for Meshmixer actions than similarly for Blender, mostly because the phrasing of your search will be clearer with Meshmixer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As an example, one would create face groups of your STL. Various segments would then turn colors. You select the depressed face group and say, &quot;cheer up&quot; then delete that group. Using the appropriate tool, which currently escapes my alleged mind, you'd then bridge those faces remaining after the delete. What was once a shallow pool becomes a flat contiguous surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would recommend using Lynda.com tutorial material if you can find it. There is also a resource called Honeypoint which somewhat specializes in Meshmixer tutorials.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not out of the question is to engage the free Fusion 360 program and use all those YouTube resources, among others, to import your STL and create extrusions and modifications you require. Our local library has an agreement with Lynda.com which provides free access to Lynda.com's tutorial library. Conveniently for me, it has a great collection for Fusion 360.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've become so accustomed to manipulating models in the above software and other programs that I attempted to rotate your image to see the other side! If this is one of the simpler ones, you have quite a job ahead of you!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Be sure to use an STL printability checker program to ensure your resulting models are workable. Meshmixer has that feature built in and a couple online services will repair your model free. One service I attempted to use destroyed the model, while the Microsoft version did not, but created a .3MF format. That added one more step to get it reconverted to .STL, but the results justified the effort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastActivityDate="2016-11-15T20:41:10.767" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3058" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="670" CreationDate="2016-11-18T03:55:26.860" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;To add to &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/670/which-hotend-does-not-clog-and-is-good-to-use-with-a-bowden-1-75-mm-setup#answer-699&quot;&gt;kamuro's answer&lt;/a&gt;, with respect to the dust aspect, the page &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.felixprinters.com/knowledgebase/article/filament-not-extruding-clogged-hot-end.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Filament Not Extruding/ Clogged Hot-End&lt;/a&gt; makes a couple of relevent points:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Dust collector not applied around the filament:&lt;/strong&gt;  Filament attracts a lot of dust, which can potentially all come into the&#xA;  hot-end. In some dusty environments this could cause a clogged hot-end&#xA;  within a few hours.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Clog from the inside of the hot-end:&lt;/strong&gt; It could be that a big dust particle is inside the hot-end tip blocking it from the inside.&#xA;  This can be solved by handdrilling the nozzle from the inside with a&#xA;  2mm drill provided in our webshop.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4762" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T13:00:58.447" LastActivityDate="2016-11-18T03:55:26.860" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3059" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3060" CreationDate="2016-11-18T15:22:54.970" Score="4" ViewCount="4558" Body="&lt;p&gt;My newly built ANET A8 has dual Z-axis steppers (and two threaded rods), but only an end-stop on one side. Am I missing some detail for ensuring proper alignment of Z as the extruder moves along the Z-axis? I notice there are mountings for a 2nd end-stop, but nowhere to attach this on the MCU board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems that even after I check the leveling, there is scope for the two steppers to get out-of sync once the servos are turned off - is this something to worry about? I realise that during a print run, if I start with good alignment this should stay good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've only managed about 10 minutes of printing so far, and everything seems to work, but this is my first printer, so obviously I might have missed a vital step in the instructions quite easily.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4927" LastEditorUserId="4927" LastEditDate="2016-11-21T13:11:04.070" LastActivityDate="2017-06-10T04:15:39.373" Title="Alignment of dual Z-axis steppers" Tags="|prusa-i3|z-axis|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3060" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3059" CreationDate="2016-11-18T15:36:27.520" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;All the Prusa-based designs I've seen have only one end stop.  While you are correct that it's theoretically possible for the two Z-drives to get out of sync, it's very unlikely in practice (barring serious friction, binding, etc.).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But even if it happens, remember that the endstop microswitch is only used to keep the extruder assembly from crashing into the print bed.  The stepper motors do not have shaft encoders, or any other position sensing mech, so if they were to get out of sync, there'd be no way to know this.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason there's provision for a stop mount, on both sides, is simply to make the physical parts of the frame the same.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, it is important to check the extruder support assembly to verify it's level as you build the printer - &quot;level&quot; meaning both supports are the same distance from the screw-drive shaft couplers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2191" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2017-06-10T04:15:39.373" LastActivityDate="2017-06-10T04:15:39.373" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3065" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3067" CreationDate="2016-11-21T10:47:13.383" Score="8" ViewCount="13296" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've actually solved this, but I think its still a useful question which I don't think is easy to answer with existing questions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As soon as I'd built my ANET-A8 (Prusa i3 DIY kit), I found I was having problems with the extruder crashing into the bed. Although I thought I'd adjusted the bed leveling OK, the calibration seemed to keep getting messed up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tracked this down to two factors. First, I was winding the extruder head up some distance before loading the filament and starting a print. Second, at roughly half-way up the axis, the right-hand thread seemed to be getting stuck (more often when moving up than down).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What wasn't clear (and not mentioned in the building instructions) was what might cause this problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4927" LastEditorUserId="4927" LastEditDate="2016-11-24T11:41:48.437" LastActivityDate="2019-01-20T12:47:12.643" Title="Z-axis steppers and bed alignment problems" Tags="|prusa-i3|z-axis|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3066" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3065" CreationDate="2016-11-21T10:58:58.947" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I assume you did everything according to the instructions but here is a checklist of what could be possibly wrong:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Friction - check if you can rotate/move parts without lot of resistance&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Screws - check if screws on couplings are tight and they don't slide over a shaft or thread&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Stepsticks - check if they are cooled properly and similar (as there are two of them)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Carriage nuts on threads - check if they do not slide out of their nests while [the x-axis] carriage goes up&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Filament - check if filament unrolls without resistance which can eventually cause [the x-axis] carriage to hang.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;IMO #2 and #3 are the most possible cause&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4Hd33.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4Hd33.png&quot; alt=&quot;Diagram of issues 1, 2 and 5&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1211" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2016-11-21T17:50:52.723" LastActivityDate="2016-11-21T17:50:52.723" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3067" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3065" CreationDate="2016-11-21T11:13:53.917" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;So after reading the instructions more carefully, ANET do cover this in their operating instructions under &lt;strong&gt;troubleshooting&lt;/strong&gt;. On closer inspection, I realised that the brass nut following the right hand thread seemed to be out of alignment with the stepper at the bottom. Fiddling with the flexible coupling helped a bit, but what I needed to do was place the assembly at the tight point, slacken the 3 bolts marked &lt;code&gt;SHCS&lt;/code&gt; in the diagram, then tighten them again. I was expecting I might need to open out the holes, or re-make the white (factory printed) part, but this wasn't necessary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5k8Wh.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5k8Wh.png&quot; alt=&quot;From ANET manual&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4927" LastEditorUserId="4927" LastEditDate="2016-11-21T15:44:53.670" LastActivityDate="2016-11-21T15:44:53.670" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3068" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3071" CreationDate="2016-11-21T15:14:08.900" Score="4" ViewCount="1191" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.5axismaker.com/5axis/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;5AxisMaker&lt;/a&gt; has a 5 axis CNC/3D printer combo machine.  I understand what the benefits of 5 axis are for CNC machines, but are there any benefits for 3D printing.  In this &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/w8Fl8L4yk8M&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;video&lt;/a&gt; they show the printer printing on an angle, but this could have been done with just linear layers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would there be any cases where a 5 axis printer would preform better than a 3 axis printer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="43" LastActivityDate="2016-11-24T02:48:42.463" Title="Does a 5 axis 3D printer have any benefits over a regular 3 axis printer?" Tags="|axis|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3070" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-11-21T16:32:34.780" Score="2" ViewCount="2996" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to skeletize the surface mesh. For that I need to export .STL from Solidworks and then convert that into .OFF file to be able to use it in CGAL library for skeletonzation. How can I do this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4968" LastActivityDate="2020-10-07T09:32:48.673" Title="How can I convert .STL file to .OFF to use in CGAL?" Tags="|3d-models|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3071" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3068" CreationDate="2016-11-21T16:37:03.730" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;One aspect of having this level of control with 3d printing of a model is the removal of the need for supports and the attendant post-processing. In the case of the model shown in the video, some effects are created by printing the continents in a conformal manner that would otherwise be impossible with conventional 3d printing. Cosmetically, the results of the &quot;5d&quot; printer are superior in this example.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There would also be some structural benefit for models with high organic content, that is curves and bulges, as opposed to orthogonal designs. Even with orthogonal designs, one can achieve stronger parts with cross-layered plastic in all directions, rather than being limited by x and y filament layers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I see on the web site that one can exchange tool heads as well. One could print a 3d model, layering the filament on all the surfaces, then use a tool head change to a milling bit and smooth the surface under CAD control.  Alternatively, one could use foam or wood and mill a model shape to be covered with a 3d printed material.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Considering the relative novelty of this product, it's likely that many aspects of the creative utility have yet to be discovered!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastActivityDate="2016-11-21T16:37:03.730" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3072" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3070" CreationDate="2016-11-21T17:00:22.943" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you can handle a single intermediate step, you may find that OpenSCAD will perform as required. As a test, I created a cube 10 x 20 x 5 within OpenSCAD.  I kept the model simple, hoping the code generated would be short.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The results:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;OFF&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;8 12 0&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;0 0 5&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;10 0 5&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;10 20 5&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;0 20 0&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;0 0 0&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;10 0 0&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;10 20 0&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;0 20 5&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3  4 5 1&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3  0 4 1&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3  0 7 4&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3  4 7 3&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3  0 1 2&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3  7 0 2&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3  3 6 4&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3  4 6 5&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3  5 6 2&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3  1 5 2&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3  7 2 3&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3  3 2 6&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In your example, it would be necessary to use the import_stl feature of OpenSCAD, then render the model. Once rendered, use File, Export, Export as OFF to create the file you need. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I cannot provide certainty of the exported code, however, as I am not familiar with the format you seek.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.openscad.org/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Openscad&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastActivityDate="2016-11-21T17:00:22.943" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3073" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3080" CreationDate="2016-11-21T17:56:01.737" Score="10" ViewCount="39206" Body="&lt;p&gt;We are custom building a Cartesian 3D printer to be used in a production 3D printing environment, with the following requirements:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Intended Z resolution 0.13mm;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Dual extruders (primary + support material);&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Four spools (two per material with y connector, perhaps add auto switch-over functionality later);&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Camera;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Onboard 11&quot; touchscreen for control &amp;amp; interaction, run by a Raspberry Pi 3;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Custom board based on ATMega2560 to control the printer;  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Printer should gracefully handle conditions like &quot;out of material&quot;, etc.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Question: How to select firmware? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there notable differences between the primary firmware options (Marlin/Repetier) for this setup?  From the google code groups, I understand the Repetier has a much cleaner code base, and apparently gives smoother physical performance.  Yet, from what I can gather, 95% of the community uses Marlin - is that correct?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given that this printer will have the Pi3 to control &quot;higher functions&quot;, is it worth considering a compact firmware like Teacup?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit 12/April/2017:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For others looking: After much review, Klipper was selected as the most forward firmware - all kinematic calculations are done on the host computer, instead of on the microprocessor, resulting is significantly faster/smoother stepper movement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4965" LastEditorUserId="4965" LastEditDate="2017-04-12T13:44:05.867" LastActivityDate="2018-08-07T13:36:32.327" Title="Firmware Choice: Marlin vs Repetier vs Other" Tags="|firmware|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3074" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="899" CreationDate="2016-11-21T21:19:27.933" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my case the solution was to use &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Slic3r&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Slic3r&lt;/a&gt; instead of &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ultimaker#History&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Cura&lt;/a&gt;. Cura has some issues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4972" LastEditorUserId="1333" LastEditDate="2016-11-25T12:23:39.053" LastActivityDate="2016-11-25T12:23:39.053" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3075" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-11-21T23:31:38.203" Score="5" ViewCount="248" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've recently bought a 3D printer and waiting for it to be delivered I've given quite a lot of time to looking things up on Thingiverse. I see people create incredible models with gears, screws, lids and a lot of very cool and functional connectors (there are some project for boxes with an iris tipe lid that can be printed already assembled as a single model). I'd like to learn to do some of that as well. At the moment I have some proficiency with Blender where I can navigate the interface and sketch up some simple shaped model without any of the functional parts described above. My question therefore is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any tutorials that could help me create better models? If I need to I'm ready to learn to use a software other than Blender. I've tried searching for a similar question but found nothing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4974" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-07-13T22:32:58.680" LastActivityDate="2020-07-13T22:32:58.680" Title="How can I learn to create models for 3D printing?" Tags="|3d-models|3d-design|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2016-11-23T21:11:36.000" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="3076" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3075" CreationDate="2016-11-21T23:42:30.750" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The answer to your question is yes, there are tutorials to help you create better models. Unfortunately, the back-story to the answer is beyond the scope of StackExchange.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't limit yourself to Blender, especially if you are attempting to create non-organic (engineering-type) models. Blender is great for curves and bulges and bumps (and animation, and so much else) but not so great for parametric modeling. Meshmixer is a useful program, but more organic than engineering.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Consider to search for OpenSCAD, Fusion 360, TinkerCAD, but also use terms such as &quot;parametric 3d modeling software&quot; to find a wider range of solutions to your quest.  The above programs are free, there are too many paid programs to list even a small number.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Oh, yeah, stay away from SketchUp for any 3d print modeling. So many failure modes result from models created with that program.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastActivityDate="2016-11-21T23:42:30.750" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3077" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3075" CreationDate="2016-11-22T12:22:30.273" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think rather than looking for a tutorial at this stage, it might be instructive to watch some videos on tuning and calibration (since these touch on what is difficult). Also download Cura (or some other slicer of your choice) and look into how your existing models would be printed layer by layer. Cura has a layer slider so you can step through the design.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, to make an attempt at answering what I think could be a good question, things to research whilst waiting for your printer are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Print failure examples and calibration;  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;code&gt;Parametric&lt;/code&gt; 3D modelling packages;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Slicer operation (this ties in with calibration).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4927" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2016-11-24T06:16:26.993" LastActivityDate="2016-11-24T06:16:26.993" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3079" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-11-23T16:05:53.760" Score="1" ViewCount="231" Body="&lt;p&gt;My printer is not printing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I already had my first print but now it won't print. I think it has something to do with the settings (it's not heating up).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am using Cura.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I load up the program and then save the file to an SD card and then put it in the 3D Printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I setup the program so that the printer's heatbed heats up?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Wrcuv.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Wrcuv.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Photo of LCD screen&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4991" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2016-11-23T21:15:27.940" LastActivityDate="2017-01-23T11:21:23.500" Title="Not printing... wrong settings?" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="9" ClosedDate="2017-01-25T20:16:19.780" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3080" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3073" CreationDate="2016-11-23T21:07:08.327" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your choice of firmware depends on a lot of factors, but to name a few important ones: features, your driver board (RAMPS vs Sanguinololu vs Gen..etc), and G-code support.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Smooth/quiet operation is dependent on the motors and the driver chip's micro-stepping capabilities. The way the firmware interfaces with the driver chip plays a very minor factor in that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check this page for a list of firmware, their capabilities and compatible electronics (driver board):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.reprap.org/wiki/List_of_Firmware&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.reprap.org/wiki/List_of_Firmware&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would be useful to check G-code support of various firmwares also:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://reprap.org/wiki/G-code&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://reprap.org/wiki/G-code&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, as a note, a lot of the community uses Marlin, but for a lot of the commercial printers, the code has been modified slightly to fit their needs. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is no perfect answer to this. Check the links and compare against your needs. Marlin is the safest bet since it has the most support, though you may need to modify or reconfigure it slightly for your custom board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4987" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-08-07T13:36:32.327" LastActivityDate="2018-08-07T13:36:32.327" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="3081" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-11-23T23:03:02.837" Score="4" ViewCount="452" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've already asked which wires I should use, and I believe I have that covered now, but I was also wondering what solder / specs on the solder are considered safe when attaching my wires to my heat bed.  I have some solder here at the house, it's quite new (never been opened) it's Radio Shack &lt;code&gt;64-008 E&lt;/code&gt; 60/40 Standard Rosin-Core with 0.062 diameter...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastActivityDate="2016-11-26T18:29:49.867" Title="What solder specs are safe to use when soldering wires to an Mk2a heat bed?" Tags="|prusa-i3|heated-bed|mk2a|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3082" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3081" CreationDate="2016-11-24T02:23:58.347" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;That solder sounds like it should be fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any solder should work, the only difference you might find is some of the older solder will include lead. if you were overly concerned about safety you might want to check your solder doesn't contain lead. However, for the amount you are doing, even a solder that contains lead isn't going to be an issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1476" LastEditorUserId="854" LastEditDate="2016-11-26T18:29:49.867" LastActivityDate="2016-11-26T18:29:49.867" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3083" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3068" CreationDate="2016-11-24T02:48:42.463" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Slicing prints for printing in 5 Axis is not going to be simple with the current software. If you look at the web site for the 5AxisMaker you can see they are using Algorithmic modeling software (Grasshopper). You would probably need to buy this as well and then spend a decent amount of time learning how to use this software as well if you were going to try and take advantage of the 5th Axis for 3D printing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have only seen Grasshopper used for 3D printing and 5 Axis used in research papers. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1476" LastActivityDate="2016-11-24T02:48:42.463" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3084" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3105" CreationDate="2016-11-24T07:15:49.703" Score="6" ViewCount="533" Body="&lt;p&gt;What would cause this effect, and how can it be avoided?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a PLA print, and it should look like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1560347&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt;. I tried 215 and 225°C and both had the same effect. An earlier similar print at 220°C was not as bad but it still had some catching- it seems hit and miss and not strongly related to extrusion temperature. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Outside: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nlRb8.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nlRb8.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Inside: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PQtTj.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PQtTj.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm using a QIDI dual extruder printer with Makerware 2.2.2.89 software and these parameters: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6FJLL.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6FJLL.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ge9ZK.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ge9ZK.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Speed is 60/80mm/s. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3992" LastActivityDate="2016-11-29T17:31:30.160" Title="What causes the print heat to 'catch' on the part?" Tags="|fdm|reprap|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3085" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3079" CreationDate="2016-11-24T10:35:01.133" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I wonder if there is a glitch in the firmware producing this unexpected result (which I think I also observed).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you navigate to &lt;code&gt;quick settings&lt;/code&gt; you should find &lt;code&gt;preheat pla&lt;/code&gt;. Selecting this has little obvious effect (except for fan speed droop as the heater kicks in), but the target temps will now be 190C / 60C.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;code&gt;Print File&lt;/code&gt; seems to wait for the pre-heat to have reached a threshold before starting to run.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4927" LastActivityDate="2016-11-24T10:35:01.133" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3086" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3081" CreationDate="2016-11-24T10:50:26.623" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Old-style lead/tin solder has a melting range of about 180 to 250 degrees (the transition solid to liquid is spread out). This ought to be fine for the bed (even at the hottest hotspot) but wouldn't be good &lt;em&gt;in&lt;/em&gt; the hotend.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Modern electronics lead-free solder varies since there are several different compositions, but is typically a bit higher in melting point (by some 10s of degrees).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Special high melting point solder transitions around 300C, but you would only need to use this in very specific scenarios.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4927" LastActivityDate="2016-11-24T10:50:26.623" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3087" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1032" CreationDate="2016-11-24T11:02:16.437" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, it should be possible to fix, although you might choose to replace anyway on the basis that the repaired bed might give you concerns about how long it will be before your repair fails.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will need to carefully remove the protective layer to expose the heating element (assuming you can identify where it is likely to have broken). Then carefully solder across the break (maybe with a short fragment of wire).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After making the repair, you should cover the exposed track. This provides both electrical and thermal insulation. In the absence of any suitable high-temperature paintable covering, you could try using kapton tape.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4927" LastActivityDate="2016-11-24T11:02:16.437" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3088" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-11-24T15:42:42.617" Score="3" ViewCount="1431" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have bought myself an I3 3D printer - it comes with a thermistor which is then placed into a hole in the hotend and held in place by a grub screw. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sadly due to my lack of care I managed to crush the wires with a pair of vice pliers whilst trying to remove the nozzle as it was clogged. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have since unblocked it but now every time I turn on the 3D printer instead of giving a minimum temperature error it says it's 260°C - even if it's left off all night and I unplugged the thermistor. Otherwise, it seems to be fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to know can I just replace it with a thermocouple and a Maxim amplifier board (the one that Marlin supports, I forget the name)?  The thermocouple I have in mind is one that has the junction exposed (see image below), does this matter?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AGhNy.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AGhNy.png&quot; alt=&quot;Thermocouple diagram&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I plan to re-route it in the firmware to use A15 instead as I believe I must have blown the analogue input, right?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1S6IK.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1S6IK.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Thermocouple photograph&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4408" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2016-11-25T07:52:22.930" LastActivityDate="2017-01-19T23:54:31.130" Title="Can you replace broken 100k thermistor with thermocouple - potentially blown analogue input as well" Tags="|printer-building|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3089" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3235" CreationDate="2016-11-24T17:07:25.063" Score="12" ViewCount="4289" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm seeing the following pattern on my Prusa clone:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uskfa.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uskfa.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Photo of low quality second layer print&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first layer prints OK, layer adhesion to the bed is good. The second layer shows the weird gaps. On larger pieces, or with an increased feed rate, it sometimes gets so bad that parts of the second layer detach and are dragged across the print. I get the impression that this effect is worse when printing in the &quot;top left to bottom right&quot; direction, but not as bad when printing in the &quot;top right to bottom left&quot; direction. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This occurs with multiple filaments and materials. I've already tried to manipulate the flow rate, temperatures and print speed, but gotten little improvement if any. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What might be causing this issue?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4620" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2016-11-25T07:52:52.613" LastActivityDate="2016-12-21T04:27:27.653" Title="Second layer: gaps, poor adhesion - why?" Tags="|print-quality|adhesion|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3090" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="505" CreationDate="2016-11-24T19:00:22.293" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have only printed on an aluminum build plate but I agree with Craig Anderson.  I use Marlin RC6 (I really should update to RC7 but I am lazy and RC6 is working well for me) and the mesh bed leveling system.  WELL worth the time to get it setup.  I use blue painter's tape and I print in both PLA and ABS, but mostly ABS.  I have very few issues with the part(s) not sticking to the build plate, actually the problem I have tends to be the opposite LOL!  I started to get good, repeatable results when I switched to mesh bed leveling and then great results when I changed my first layer to be 200&amp;nbsp;% flow.  YMMV but I print with 110&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C bed and 235&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C print head, use blue painters tape and mesh bed leveling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5005" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-04-16T12:04:16.467" LastActivityDate="2019-04-16T12:04:16.467" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="3091" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3093" CreationDate="2016-11-24T20:48:30.587" Score="2" ViewCount="273" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a hypothetical question. From which parts can I build a metal-based 3D printer and can I buy those parts somewhere?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4649" LastActivityDate="2016-11-25T01:59:25.433" Title="How to build a metal-based 3D printer?" Tags="|printer-building|metal-printing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2016-11-25T07:41:34.877" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3092" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1217" CreationDate="2016-11-24T22:46:34.363" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Q1: &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/kliment/Printrun/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Printrun&lt;/a&gt; is 3D printer host software written in Python with limited DLP support. You can checkout how it &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/kliment/Printrun/blob/master/printrun/projectlayer.py&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;display layers&lt;/a&gt;.&#xA;NanoDLP directly talk to GPU through Dispmanx which makes it Raspberry Pi only. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Q2: Printrun supports SVG. To convert SVG (multi-layer) to PNG you can use ImageMagick cli tools, you should consider your projector resolution too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5007" LastEditorUserId="5007" LastEditDate="2016-11-26T22:20:55.767" LastActivityDate="2016-11-26T22:20:55.767" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3093" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3091" CreationDate="2016-11-25T01:59:25.433" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think this depends on what you are trying to accomplish with the 3D printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have seen people online build metal 3D printers from a robot arm and a welder this would probably be the simplest design and build but robot arms that can weld are expensive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have also seen that someone at MIT build a glass 3D printer by building a small kiln with a hole at the bottom and moving it around like a normal extrusion printer. This method might work for a metal printer as well if you could get the temperatures right. This might be cheap enough a hobbyist could do it as well because you just need the same parts as a normal FDM 3d printer just able to more more weight. &#xA;But with the same parts you could also do lost pla casting and that would be a simpler approach with a better end product.    &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But probably what you would be really interested in building would be a laser sintering 3D printer. Where a layer of powder is put down and then a laser melts part of the powered to join it to the model. For this the main thing you need would be the laser. I don't know a lot about how these printer work but the laser would need to be able to melt metal so I would think it would need to be very powerful and that would make it very expensive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1476" LastActivityDate="2016-11-25T01:59:25.433" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3094" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3095" CreationDate="2016-11-26T16:55:09.137" Score="3" ViewCount="252" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am completely new to 3D printing. I need to build a calibration plate, which I was told can be built using  vero back plastic and a 3d printer. But I am afraid I need to know more if I give this to someone for fabrication. In particular, I am wondering how to get the white dots on the surfaces. My question is probably ill-posed, but I am trying to get as much info as I can before I consult any 3d printing vendors. Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/32GtS.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/32GtS.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Calibration plate&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5019" LastEditorUserId="5019" LastEditDate="2016-11-26T18:03:16.693" LastActivityDate="2016-12-02T14:58:43.683" Title="How to build this part using 3d printing" Tags="|3d-models|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3095" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3094" CreationDate="2016-11-26T17:52:21.073" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The photo is too small to be clear about the entire objective and there are no dimensions provided. A quick google search returns nothing 3d printer related to &quot;black vera plastics&quot; other than a reference to vera bradley, vera wang and an obscure reference to a woven black carpet with white spots of increasing size. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even within those limitations, one can certainly print a strip of black with white dots. One method involves a dual extruder printer, enabling two colors to be printed, one layer at a time. The black layer would be extruded with suitable holes and the white layer would be place within those holes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another method involves printing the black layer with holes, swapping out the filament with white and creating white plugs of appropriate sizes for the necessary fit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You've used the term calibration plate, which implies some level of precision. Is the precision related to spacing, dot size, dot color, or a combination of the above?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Such requirements may make the cost slightly higher, but not excessively. I can print up to to 290 mm long strip, possibly longer by going diagonal on my 290 mm print bed, with or without the two colors done simultaneously.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you require crisp edges to the white/black transition, the holes-and-plugs method will give best results and require a bit of post processing. It may be necessary to ream the holes to correct diameter and sand the plugs to fit. Dual extrusion rarely provides sharp delineation from one color to the next.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastActivityDate="2016-11-26T17:52:21.073" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3096" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2997" CreationDate="2016-11-26T23:13:19.133" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Laser SLS printers (3D Metal Printer) software requirements are very similar to SLA printers specially laser ones. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are lots of different tools which you can use together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can use &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/macpod/lasershark_3dp/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Lasershark 3D&quot;&gt;Lasershark 3D&lt;/a&gt; together with creationworkshop. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also you can convert your source file to SVG or image files, using &lt;a href=&quot;http://slic3r.org/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Slic3r&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.nanodlp.com/download/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;nanoDLP SLC2PNG&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.asiga.com/products/software/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Asiga Stomp/Sleece&lt;/a&gt;. And convert SVG or Image files to toolpaths using &lt;a href=&quot;https://sourceforge.net/projects/cadpy/files/?source=navbar&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;cad.py&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/arpruss/gcodeplot&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;gcodeplot&lt;/a&gt; or any other freely available softwares. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5007" LastActivityDate="2016-11-26T23:13:19.133" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3097" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4036" CreationDate="2016-11-27T13:57:52.213" Score="4" ViewCount="1140" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have purchased a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/182324809387&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;P3Steel v.4 kit&lt;/a&gt; that, rather unfortunately, comes with a &lt;em&gt;steel&lt;/em&gt; Y plate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jmLpO.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jmLpO.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;P3Steel v.4 kit - assembled&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I understand that there may be interia, as well as stepper motor wear, issues related to the weight of the steel plate. Therefore I would like to substitute the steel plate for another material. I had considered aluminium, as recommended by the &lt;a href=&quot;http://reprap.org/wiki/P3Steel#Frame_versions&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;RepRap wiki - P3Steel/Frame Versions/ Version  4.0&lt;/a&gt; :&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We recomended use aluminum beds for y axis.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, it was suggested, by a vendor, that I use laser cut 6 mm thick MDF, principally for reasons of economics and availablity, over aluminium.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have subsequently found a supplier of 3 mm thick aluminium 200 mm x 300 mm Y axis plates, so availability is no longer an issue, and the slightly higher cost is not really an issue for me. However, I was wondering whether there would be &lt;em&gt;significantly&lt;/em&gt; less interia if using an MDF Y axis plate, than with an aluminium plate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I assume that the masses/densities of aluminium and MDF are comparable, and a magnitude less than that of steel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have found the densities of aluminium and steel:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Aluminium 2.7x10&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt; kg/m&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt; (167 lb/ft&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Steel 7.82x10&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt; kg/m&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt;    (488 lb/ft&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[Source: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/density-solids-d_1265.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Densities of Solids - Engineering ToolBox&lt;/a&gt;]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The density of MDF is given as 700–720 kg/m&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt; (43.7-44.95 lb/ft&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt;), which is a magnitude less than that of aluminium.&#xA;[Source: &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Medium-density_fibreboard&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Medium-density fibreboard&lt;/a&gt;]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is the issue that MDF can eventually warp, whereas aluminium supposedly does not, although the OP of &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/2990/wanhao-duplicator-i3-print-bed-support-warped#comment-4069&quot;&gt;Wanhao duplicator i3 print bed support warped&lt;/a&gt; shows that warpage &lt;em&gt;is&lt;/em&gt; possible with aluminium plate - see &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/22/is-the-weather-a-problem-for-mdf-frames&quot;&gt;Is the weather a problem for MDF frames?&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/1156/would-a-steel-instead-of-a-aluminum-plate-be-reasonable&quot;&gt;Would a steel, instead of an aluminium, plate be reasonable?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;TL;DR&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Considering the benefits of weight/inertia, stiffness and lack of deformation/warping:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is the difference in density between steel versus aluminium and/or MDF, make it worth switching from steel to aluminium or MDF?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is the additional weight loss of MDF over aluminium worth the risk of deformation of the MDF due to humidity/temperature?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Notes&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; I found &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/1156/would-a-steel-instead-of-a-aluminum-plate-be-reasonable&quot;&gt;this question&lt;/a&gt; &lt;em&gt;after&lt;/em&gt; having written up my question, so I admit that there is a risk of duplicity of the answers. However, I am concentrating more of the comparison of aluminium and MDF in this post, rather than just steel versus aluminium. Also, my question deals with the Y axis heatbed &lt;em&gt;support&lt;/em&gt;, rather than the heatbed itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4762" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:29:41.667" LastActivityDate="2017-05-11T19:50:05.807" Title="Steel versus MDF/Aluminium Y axis plate?" Tags="|heated-bed|y-axis|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3098" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3099" CreationDate="2016-11-27T21:38:22.680" Score="7" ViewCount="6046" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there actually a way to determine whether the sheet of glass that one has received from a Chinese supplier on eBay is actually a sheet of Borosilicate glass, and not just a piece of normal glass intended for glazing purposes?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any laminations, or markings/features, visible under a certain light or if the sheet is viewed at a particular angle?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I ask because most of the 200 x 300 mm sheets on eBay are priced at around £16 - £26, but there are a few priced at just £10, which still claim to be toughened glass, although they do not mention the word Borosilicate, such as this one, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/300x200x3mm-3D-Printer-Heated-Bed-Toughened-Glass-Clear-Build-Plate-UK-STOCK-/302067007035&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;300x200x3mm 3D Printer Heated Bed Toughened Glass Clear Build Plate UK STOCK&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To paraphrase, &quot;Usually if things seem to good to be true, then they are probably fake.&quot; However, I wondered whether it was worth a punt as it is only £10, and then if I would be able to verify its veracity once it was in my hands.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4762" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-10-10T10:43:05.883" LastActivityDate="2023-11-28T15:01:00.803" Title="How can I determine whether my borosilicate glass is fake or not?" Tags="|build-plate|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="3099" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3098" CreationDate="2016-11-28T11:23:29.840" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Google turned up this thread: &lt;a href=&quot;http://arstechnica.com/civis/viewtopic.php?t=96214&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://arstechnica.com/civis/viewtopic.php?t=96214&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There don't seem to be any easy, definitive tests. You have two main options, both of which seem to require a fairly high level of laboratory skill (but nothing fancy in terms of equipment).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The refractive index of Borosilicate glass is very similar to vegetable oil (implying no reflection from a boundary if you have a pool of oil on the glass).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The density of the glass can be measured too, using a water bath. This should also be able to give a fairly accurate answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Stress testing seems the most reliable way to determine if you have a 'good' sample, but may be more expensive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4927" LastActivityDate="2016-11-28T11:23:29.840" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3100" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="978" CreationDate="2016-11-28T16:39:27.580" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since aluminium has a melting point at 600°C, you're unlikely to get it to a state where it flexes much by heating. I would doubt you even manage to aneal it (release the internal stresses).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your best option is to construct a jig which allows you to press the distortion out (or pull, using a screw in the existing holes), whilst also taking care not to apply pressure (at least with a sharp edge) to the tracks or coatings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This will only be a partial fix, but might be worth trying with a glass sheet in addition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: This might be relevant for a Mk3 heatbed, but not the Mk2 as asked in the question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4927" LastEditorUserId="4927" LastEditDate="2016-11-29T13:46:40.203" LastActivityDate="2016-11-29T13:46:40.203" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3101" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3102" CreationDate="2016-11-29T01:19:32.740" Score="6" ViewCount="593" Body="&lt;p&gt;I switched out my 0.4 mm Ultimaker 2+ Nozzle the other day for the 0.25 mm and started using a ColorFabb Copperfill 2.85 mm filament. I am having some issues with it clogging and sticking to the bed for larger prints:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iWxvi.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iWxvi.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Snapshot of 1st Layer&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Current settings are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Extruder Temp: 230°C&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Flow Rate: 110% (increased it from 108% get more consistent output)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bed Temperature: 70°C&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I thought it might be a calibration issue since I could see it skipping certain sections and slowly collecting excess material on the outer nozzle, so I recalibrated the bed but I still ended up with a blocked nozzle after about two hours of running. Not too sure if there are other settings I need to take care of. Any suggestions would be great!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1564" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2019-08-31T08:29:05.420" LastActivityDate="2019-08-31T08:29:05.420" Title="Recommended settings for ColorFabb Copperfill Filaments on a 0.25 mm Nozzle?" Tags="|pla|ultimaker-2|filled-pla|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3102" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3101" CreationDate="2016-11-29T09:31:12.063" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It looks like a problem with feeding filament. It could be good to know if you did try such big printouts before but even if - from your picture it looks like on far end there is too less filament but on near end it's too much of it (because of 110%). And near the big circle it looks better even on far end. And there are &quot;waves&quot; close to big circle.&lt;br&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;How is that possible?&lt;br&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;Assuming that your extruder works well it might be caused by bending bowden tube. If your filament is not slick enough - in some settings (positions/arrangements) of bowden it might create enough friction so it doesn't flow with proper rate. It might be also caused if your bowden tube was bent too much (broken).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To be sure please try to print 4 smaller (5 cm in diam) circles on bed's corners and the one in the center. Just one layer of course.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;How to fix the issue?&lt;br&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;In my opinion you could try to slow down whole printout. Try to print such big circle with 30% of regular speed. I'm pretty sure you'll get proper results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Try to check if filament goes smoothly thought the tube. Check if it has proper inner diameter. You can try to clean up a tube inside if it's not perfect clean or change a tube to new one. I know it was probably ok for recent filaments but maybe this one is more &quot;demanding&quot; ;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1211" LastEditorUserId="1211" LastEditDate="2016-11-29T09:58:32.463" LastActivityDate="2016-11-29T09:58:32.463" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3103" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3439" CreationDate="2016-11-29T13:20:34.850" Score="7" ViewCount="1550" Body="&lt;h3&gt;TL;DR&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Do aluminium PCB heatbeds suffer from hotspots as much as standard PCB heatbeds, or is the presence of hot spots smoothed over by the fact that the PCB &quot;substrate&quot; is aluminium, and so its thermal conductivity helps spread the heat more evenly? &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Or, conversely, could the effect of the hotspots be magnified, and actually made worse?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Which has fewer hotspots, MK2A, MK2B, or MK3? (I'm not sure if this should be a separate question)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would have also asked whether aluminium PCB heatbeds are worth the additional cost, over standard PCB heatbeds, but for the slightly less common dimensions of 200 mm x 300 mm, the costs, of an aluminium PCB heat bed, are roughly the same as standard PCB.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some thermal imaging pictures, comparing standard PCBs with aluminium PCBs, would be appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am keen to buy an aluminium PCB heatbed for my P3Steel v.4 printer, which has a larger build area of 200 mm x 300 mm. So, after some searching, I found this MK2A: &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B019C9NH4U&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;MK2A 300x200mm Aluminum Heated Bed Hot Bed for RepRap 3D Printer 12V + Wiring + NTC 3950 Thermistor - Upgrade you Prusa i3 for LARGE Printsize&lt;/a&gt;, or this cheaper MK3, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.amazon.co.uk/Anycubic-Heatbed-Aluminum-Perfect-Printer/dp/B01IV312UO&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Anycubic Dual Power MK3 Heatbed 300*200*3mm Aluminum Heat Bed 12V/24V Perfect for Prusa i3 3D Printer&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Note: this is not a shopping question&lt;/strong&gt;, I am merely providing a background to my questions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5Urjp.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5Urjp.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Mk3 aluminium PCB heatbed&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While the RepRap wiki is full of information, the information can be rather piecemeal and incomplete. Cases in point being the two pages on heatbeds:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://reprap.org/wiki/Heated_Bed&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Heated Bed&lt;/a&gt;, and;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://reprap.org/wiki/PCB_Heatbed&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;PCB_Heatbed&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As stated in the former link, on the section on &lt;a href=&quot;http://reprap.org/wiki/Heated_Bed#Metal&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Metal print beds&lt;/a&gt;, PCB based heatbeds &lt;em&gt;can&lt;/em&gt; suffer from hotspots, and that is why, apparently, it is sometimes preferrable to use a subsequent aluminium build/print bed &lt;em&gt;on top&lt;/em&gt; of that, en lieu of glass plate, in order to even out the hotspots, as the aluminium's greater thermal conductivity helps &lt;em&gt;smooth out&lt;/em&gt; the hotspots, by distributing the heat more efficiently than a glass plate can. However, it doesn't describe the heating effect of just a &lt;em&gt;single&lt;/em&gt; aluminium PCB heatbed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The section, in the latter link, on &lt;a href=&quot;http://reprap.org/wiki/PCB_Heatbed#MK3_ALU-Heatbed_Dual_Power&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Aluminium heatbeds&lt;/a&gt;, where the heating circuit is printed directly onto the aluminium, rather than a standard PCB (on a non-conductive substrate), makes mention that the print can be made directly on to the aluminium, without the need of an additional glass plate, resulting in a lighter print plate, and hence faster print speed. However, yet again, it is not particularly clear, or explicit, when it comes to heat distribution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4762" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2016-11-29T13:36:19.207" LastActivityDate="2017-02-16T12:00:41.633" Title="Do aluminium PCB heatbeds reduce hotspots?" Tags="|heated-bed|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3104" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3084" CreationDate="2016-11-29T16:52:49.603" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;As pointed out in the comments, what you are seeing could very well be related to &lt;em&gt;lack of cooling&lt;/em&gt;: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may notice that the irregularity in the print become more and more pronounced the further up you see. I believe this happens because &lt;em&gt;the area that is printed is reduced gradually closer to the top&lt;/em&gt;, which in turn will give each printed layer &lt;em&gt;less time to cool&lt;/em&gt;. (The frequent revisits of the hot nozzle will not allow the top layer to cool naturally.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This problem is very common when printing models with small cross-sections, and are typically solved by:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Installing additional print cooling fans (cooling the actual print, not the hotend/heat sink)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Printing several items at the same time (to increase the cross-section)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Reducing print speed (gives more time to cool, but might not work for very small models)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Reduce printing temperature&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can, installing additional fans and/or printing multiple objects at the same time are probably the most efficient solutions - in my opinion. However, either method would be worth exploring. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;PS:&lt;/strong&gt; When printing PLA, set your fans to full. ABS, on the other hand, does not like cooling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="115" LastActivityDate="2016-11-29T16:52:49.603" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3105" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3084" CreationDate="2016-11-29T17:31:30.160" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think that you should first verify that you have the latest firmware and a newer version of MakerWare. I experienced similar issues around that version of MakerWare and remember a lot of print errors came with it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I believe the MakerBot Dual firmware is somewhere around 7.? and is no longer in development.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;MakerWare is also no longer in development as a standalone application and seems to have been ported over to the MakerBot Desktop. However I've personally found v2.4.1 to be substantially more stable than v2.2.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have not tested it, but supposedly the new MakerBot Desktop (v3.10) is compatible with the Replicator Dual &quot;Original&quot;. I had tried an earlier version of MakerBot Desktop and reverted back to MakerWare 2.4 because I ran into issues with connectivity. However, I'm not certain it was an issue with software so much as the exploding voltage regulator...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It might be best to give the new software a shot and/or try v2.4 of MakerWare, if you can find it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's the link to the latest &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.makerbot.com/download-desktop/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;MakerBot Desktop&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's the release notes for &lt;a href=&quot;https://support.makerbot.com/learn/makerbot-desktop-software/release-notes/makerbot-desktop-release-notes_13520&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;MakerWare/MakerBot Desktop&lt;/a&gt; v1.0-latest (v3.10+)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="98" LastActivityDate="2016-11-29T17:31:30.160" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3106" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2805" CreationDate="2016-11-29T20:37:49.243" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are software limits that might be set low by default depending on the software you are using. I know there is with Marlin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="768" LastActivityDate="2016-11-29T20:37:49.243" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3107" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3108" CreationDate="2016-11-30T17:51:16.927" Score="9" ViewCount="3184" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am new to 3D printing. I thought that the black surface of my print bed was supposed to keep things stuck without additional tape, spray, etc.  However, every time I print something, this same corner, and only this corner, detaches. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any advice on how to fix this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Monoprice Makerselect V2&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hatchbox PLA &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Temp 195/50&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8yXD4.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8yXD4.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Photo of print warping in corner&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5021" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2016-12-01T00:41:09.660" LastActivityDate="2016-12-01T00:41:09.660" Title="One corner never sticks" Tags="|adhesion|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3108" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3107" CreationDate="2016-11-30T18:22:37.880" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is very likely caused by an uneven bed. It's probably lower in that particular corner: the nozzle is further from the bed, so the filament isn't squished down as much and therefore releases more easily from the bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your bed should have 3 or 4 screws that you can adjust, you should loosen the screw in the corner that is giving you trouble.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastActivityDate="2016-11-30T18:22:37.880" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3109" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-12-01T09:39:40.763" Score="2" ViewCount="526" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am trying to create my own Cura GUI. I am constantly getting the error:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;UM module not found.&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do I need to see a UI file?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think I am wrong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've installed Python, pyqt5, numpy, scipy, but I do not understand why the constant &lt;code&gt;UM module was not found&lt;/code&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know I'm doing it wrong somewhere but I can not find my mistake.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I believe there are people who will help me. There are people who know how to do it. Will you help me? What am I supposed to do?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5079" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-10-18T07:33:36.983" LastActivityDate="2018-10-18T07:33:36.983" Title="How to build my own Cura GUI?" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|python|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ClosedDate="2016-12-01T11:22:51.217" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="3110" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3109" CreationDate="2016-12-01T11:15:36.567" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;UM could stand for UltiMaker. I think that you need to either:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;download Uranium;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;install the UM package;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;import the UM package, or;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;need to add it to your path (&lt;code&gt;PYTHONPATH&lt;/code&gt;).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may find your answer here: &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/Ultimaker/Cura/issues/510&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;help needed: ImportError: &quot;No Module named UM&quot; in Eclipse #510&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The two things that you seem to need to do are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Get Uranium from &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/Ultimaker/Uranium&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://github.com/Ultimaker/Uranium&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Add the path: &lt;code&gt;PYTHONPATH=/path/to/uranium/repo cura_app.py&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4762" LastActivityDate="2016-12-01T11:15:36.567" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3111" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3133" CreationDate="2016-12-01T11:53:29.057" Score="8" ViewCount="3762" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been looking at cork sheet insulation for my 200 mm x 300 mm aluminium PCB heatbed, by I am not entirely sure how thick it should be. There seems to be a trade off between losing a few millimeters of print height, and providing adequate installation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have seen 10 mm thick table mats, and then 5/3/2 mm thick cork insulation tiles. On some forums people say they use two 2 mm sheets beneath the aluminium heater and then another 1.5 mm aluminium plate under those, to hold it altogether (source: &lt;a href=&quot;http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?4,584582,587506#msg-587506&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Re: Is a cork board necessary under the heated bed?&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hopefully this does not come across as a &lt;em&gt;how-long-is-a-piece-of-string&lt;/em&gt; type question. I am just trying to get the right amount in the first place whilst spending as little as possible, and keeping the mass/volume and height down. If someone else has already gone through the empirical adjustments themselves, then it might save me the time and expense of having to test various configurations. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Would just 2 mm thick cork backing be sufficient?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is 10 mm overkill?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Does silver foil backing help considerably, thereby enabling one to reduce the thickness of the cork?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4762" LastActivityDate="2017-01-06T21:47:53.503" Title="How much insulation do I really need?" Tags="|heated-bed|heat-management|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3112" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3117" CreationDate="2016-12-01T14:32:21.223" Score="8" ViewCount="24179" Body="&lt;p&gt;Should it be possible to directly send G-code to the printer serial connection using pipes under Linux?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;echo M106 &amp;gt; /dev/ttyUSB0&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My controller runs at 250000 baud, I have tried setting the TTY baud rate to 250 kBd with: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;stty -F /dev/ttyUSB0 250000&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But, unfortunately, this particular baud rate appears to be unsupported under Ubuntu, giving the error: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;stty: invalid argument ‘250000’&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4965" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2016-12-02T14:49:27.057" LastActivityDate="2020-11-07T16:30:44.447" Title="How to directly send G-code to printer from a Linux terminal?" Tags="|firmware|arduino-mega-2650|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3113" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3116" CreationDate="2016-12-01T14:50:28.943" Score="6" ViewCount="1726" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a large resistor that goes in my J-Head extruder. It's grey, and it came with the extruder.  I'm uncertain as to what grade of wire I need to solder to it.  It being one of the elements of the system that heats the hottest, I would think that it would be important to find out what sort of wire is the correct kind to use on it, since heating elements require a lot of electricity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also does the solder type I use matter?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2017-06-28T22:02:53.323" LastActivityDate="2017-06-28T22:02:53.323" Title="What grade of wire is required for the heating element on a J-Head extruder?" Tags="|extruder|prusa-i3-rework|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3114" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3113" CreationDate="2016-12-01T15:12:55.470" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The physical size of the resistor is irrelevant.  What matters is the total power (and in particular, current) the head will draw.  Once you know that, there are plenty of tables on the web that'll list max amperage vs. wire gauge.  When in doubt, use a larger wire :-) since we're only talking about a couple of feet length; cost is minimal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As to solder: so long as you're not selling the printer, you don't need to meet any RoHs requirements. Use whatever you want.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2191" LastActivityDate="2016-12-01T15:12:55.470" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3115" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3112" CreationDate="2016-12-01T15:21:54.483" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://ubuntuforums.org/showthread.php?t=1609727&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;This forum page&lt;/a&gt;  strongly suggests you should be using &lt;code&gt;setserial&lt;/code&gt; for a port, not &lt;code&gt;stty&lt;/code&gt; , which is for terminals.  I'd give the code snippets there a try.&#xA;Alternatively, &lt;a href=&quot;https://stackoverflow.com/questions/12646324/how-to-set-a-custom-baud-rate-on-linux&quot;&gt;stackoverflow&lt;/a&gt; has a similar discussion, with somewhat more complicated modifications.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are you sure you can't talk with your printer at a lower baud rate than the maximum capability of the printer-end? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2191" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-05-23T12:41:54.910" LastActivityDate="2016-12-01T15:21:54.483" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3116" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3113" CreationDate="2016-12-01T15:23:14.690" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a number of things to consider:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Wire Gauge: a typical 40W, 12V heater draws around 3A. 24 AWG or lower would be appropriate (copper wire, CCA will require thicker gauge).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Insulation: the part of the wire close to the resistor leads might get too hot for conventional PVC installation. Consider using silicone, teflon or glass fiber insulation instead, especially near the heating element. If the resistor's leads are long enough they might stay cool enough for regular PVC insulation, but make sure you insulate the part of the leads closer to the resistor appropriately.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Solder: if close to the heater itself, the solder might melt. Consider using silver solder, or using a mechanical connection (ferrule/crimp) instead. Again, this might not be a concern if the leads of the resistor are long enough.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Flexibility: given that the extruder (probably) moves a lot, use flexible wire (stranded, not solid core) and provide strain relief (especially near the connections, and avoid creating too sharp bends).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, resistors have fallen out of favor compared to ceramic heating elements. Since they are inexpensive and solve all of the above problems (the leads are already attached and appropriately insulated) consider using a ceramic heater instead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastActivityDate="2016-12-01T15:23:14.690" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3117" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3112" CreationDate="2016-12-01T18:30:39.040" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;For direct low-level printer control from a terminal, without specific software, I found the following solution with full credit thanks to user: &lt;a href=&quot;http://stackexchange.com/users/6463673/meuh&quot;&gt;http://stackexchange.com/users/6463673/meuh&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sharing here as may be of use to other users in the 3d Printing community, and I was unable to source a &quot;complete&quot; solution to this elsewhere.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Step 1)&#xA;Create a custom python script that allows you to set arbitrary baud rates (make executable with &lt;code&gt;chmod u+x&lt;/code&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#!/usr/bin/python&#xA;# set nonstandard baudrate. Original Question: http://unix.stackexchange.com/a/327366/119298&#xA;import sys,array,fcntl&#xA;&#xA;# from /usr/lib/python2.7/site-packages/serial/serialposix.py&#xA;# /usr/include/asm-generic/termbits.h for struct termios2&#xA;#  [2]c_cflag [9]c_ispeed [10]c_ospeed&#xA;def set_special_baudrate(fd, baudrate):&#xA;    TCGETS2 = 0x802C542A&#xA;    TCSETS2 = 0x402C542B&#xA;    BOTHER = 0o010000&#xA;    CBAUD = 0o010017&#xA;    buf = array.array('i', [0] * 64) # is 44 really&#xA;    fcntl.ioctl(fd, TCGETS2, buf)&#xA;    buf[2] &amp;amp;= ~CBAUD&#xA;    buf[2] |= BOTHER&#xA;    buf[9] = buf[10] = baudrate&#xA;    assert(fcntl.ioctl(fd, TCSETS2, buf)==0)&#xA;    fcntl.ioctl(fd, TCGETS2, buf)&#xA;    if buf[9]!=baudrate or buf[10]!=baudrate:&#xA;        print(&quot;failed. speed is %d %d&quot; % (buf[9],buf[10]))&#xA;        sys.exit(1)&#xA;&#xA;set_special_baudrate(0, int(sys.argv[1]))&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Step 2) Run the script to set your baud rate.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;code&gt;./set_custom_baud_rate.py &amp;lt;&amp;gt; /dev/ttyUSB0 250000&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Step 3) You can now monitor your printer output in a terminal window simply with:&lt;br&gt;&#xA; &lt;code&gt;tail -f /dev/ttyUSB0&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Step 4) And finally, open up a new terminal window, and you can directly send M or Gcode to your printer; example:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;code&gt;echo &quot;M115&quot; &amp;gt;&amp;gt; /dev/ttyUSB0&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4965" LastEditorUserId="4965" LastEditDate="2016-12-01T20:24:40.713" LastActivityDate="2016-12-01T20:24:40.713" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3118" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3120" CreationDate="2016-12-01T20:38:41.543" Score="16" ViewCount="3126" Body="&lt;p&gt;Doing some low level monitoring, the following sequence is sent to the printer:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;N0 M106*36 &#xA;N1 G28*18 &#xA;N2 M107*39&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This sequence just turns the fan on, homes the printer, then turns the fan off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Question: What is the purpose of the asterix/star/(*) and the two succeeding digits on each line?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4965" LastActivityDate="2016-12-02T08:11:42.747" Title="What is the purpose of asterix (*) in Gcode?" Tags="|g-code|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3119" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3607" CreationDate="2016-12-02T03:32:53.420" Score="5" ViewCount="472" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is it possible to 3D print an axial turbine 2 - 4 inches (50 - 100 mm) in radius, capable withstanding temperatures about 800 - 1000°C and rotation speeds of 100 - 120 x 10&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt; rpm?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How expensive is that? Is it cheaper to mill such a turbine from a whole piece of alloy?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What technologies and materials should be used?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are Inconel alloys suitable for 3D printing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any titanium alloys suitable for this task? I've read titanium is rarely used in rapidly rotating parts due to its ability to ignite if mechanical failure occurs and rotating blades touch the casing. Do titanium alloys still have this drawback? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it possible to make disk of titanium and blades of Inconel, and have them welded (considering heat expansion)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How blades or blisks can be ceramically coated?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5089" LastEditorUserId="5089" LastEditDate="2016-12-07T01:09:10.580" LastActivityDate="2017-02-16T20:31:23.697" Title="3D printing and coating of heat-resistant objects, such as a turbine blisks or blades" Tags="|material|metal-printing|applications|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3120" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3118" CreationDate="2016-12-02T08:11:42.747" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;That is a checksum. It's added by the host software to the G-code, to allow some basic verification by the firmware that the G-code was transmitted unchanged. It doesn't change the meaning of the G-code, and what your sequence actually represents is just &lt;code&gt;M106, G28, M107&lt;/code&gt;. The &lt;code&gt;N0,N1,N2,...&lt;/code&gt; are line numbers, and the combination of line numbers and checksums is used to request a re-send of any lines that were corrupted during transmission.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastActivityDate="2016-12-02T08:11:42.747" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3121" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3616" CreationDate="2016-12-02T10:17:43.533" Score="8" ViewCount="5976" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've just tried to make some small labels with embossed lettering. Base is 1.5 mm, with letters and a perimeter protruding by another 1 mm. After printing, I realised that Cura is not giving me a top layer, all I get is an inner and outer wall for the perimeter and the lettering:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Hri17.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Hri17.png&quot; alt=&quot;Screenshot showing missing infill in top layer&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The base is OK, with 4 layers, but there is no infill at the top. Presumably there is a setting that I've missed (I can appreciate that maybe this is a detail to the slicing which is model dependant). Layers are 0.2 mm, top and bottom set to 4 layers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had walls set to 1.6 mm, (4 layers) and the wall features here are 1 mm (i.e. 2.5x the nozzle). The features are solid so far as I know, not drawn as a hollow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found a relevant bug for Cura: &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/Ultimaker/Cura/issues/1303&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://github.com/Ultimaker/Cura/issues/1303&lt;/a&gt; (and I also understand a workaround now, just need to write up an answer).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4927" LastEditorUserId="4927" LastEditDate="2017-01-20T09:36:11.643" LastActivityDate="2017-02-21T13:13:12.713" Title="Missing top layers in Cura" Tags="|slicing|ultimaker-cura|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3122" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3146" CreationDate="2016-12-02T11:05:10.800" Score="2" ViewCount="3687" Body="&lt;p&gt;A &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/3111/how-much-insulation-do-i-really-need#comment-4113&quot;&gt;comment&lt;/a&gt; to my question &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/3111/how-much-insulation-do-i-really-need&quot;&gt;How much insulation do I really need?&lt;/a&gt; has made me paranoid about using cork as a heatbed insulator:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Why worry -- other than the fact that it's flammable. All that's needed to start a fire is having the thermistor fail or come loose. I'd use a flameproof material if you're going to insulate. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The flash point (ignition temperature) of cork is, apparently, 300 - 320°C&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;, which is not, as far as I can tell, a temperature that the heatbed reaches, so, in theory, cork should be safe to use as an insulator. In fact temperatures of around 300C are used in the manufacturing process of some cork products&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;For insulation applications, agglomerates of granules of&#xA;  cork, known as black agglomerates, are employed. They&#xA;  are manufactured in a closed autoclave at high&#xA;  temperature (approximately 300uC) and pressure&#xA;  (around 40 kPa) without the use of adhesive&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addtion, according to &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.corkor.com/blogs/wikicork/72704325-why-should-we-use-cork&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Why should we use cork?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Does cork burn?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Cork is a slow combustion material. That is to say, yes it burns but very slowly and it doesn't produce flame so it doesn't spread. Also, when burning, the smoke that it releases is not toxic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I am not sure if all cork is equal, or whether the thickness of the cork can affect the safety. To give a definite figure, I was thinking of using 2 mm - 5 mm thick cork sheeting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has anyone experienced, or know of, any burning (or scorching) of cork, when used as a backing insulator to a heatbed, in particular, an aluminium PCB MK3 heatbed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; Source: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.chacha.com/question/what-is-the-the-ignition-temperature-of-cork&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;What is the the ignition temperature of cork? | ChaCha&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; Source: &lt;a href=&quot;https://thematking.com/business_industry/we-aint-just-mats/cork-products/int-materials-review-2005.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Cork: properties, capabilities and applications&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4762" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T13:00:58.447" LastActivityDate="2017-11-17T18:53:26.583" Title="Has anyone experienced scorching or burning of cork heatbed insulation?" Tags="|heated-bed|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3123" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-12-02T12:50:39.977" Score="2" ViewCount="46" Body="&lt;p&gt;I returned my 3D printer controller board since it died, after only doing a dozen failed/successful prints.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have bought myself a &lt;a href=&quot;http://doku.radds.org/dokumentation/radds/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;RADDS board&lt;/a&gt; which set me back £72 including motor drivers but not the Arduino Due. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will I see some real benefit in upgrading to 32 bit because surely it doesn't make it print faster?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4408" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2017-02-14T05:31:08.650" LastActivityDate="2017-02-14T05:31:08.650" Title="What are the advantages of upgrading to a 32 bit microcontroller?" Tags="|electronics|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2016-12-02T13:30:22.293" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3124" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3121" CreationDate="2016-12-02T14:19:20.797" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is your source model?  Typically this &quot;missing layer&quot; effect happens if the source has a wall thickness less than the size of the extruder nozzle selected. Cura will view that part of the model as non-printable.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Meshmixer and TinkerCad (among many others) will allow you to set and change thicknesses in the model. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2191" LastActivityDate="2016-12-02T14:19:20.797" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3125" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3119" CreationDate="2016-12-02T14:27:39.080" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This depends primarily on economics and on desired lifetime.  Rather obviously you need a material whose strengths and melting points exceed the operational specs.  Determining the various break strengths (shear, bending, etc) is an engineering problem, not a manufacturing problem per se.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Next, consider the production time and cost of 3D-printing vs. some typical assembly line process.  Nearly always the 3D approach loses for large quantity builds.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Designing and operating devices like this can be extremely dangerous. Very tight tolerances are required.  &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.powermems.be/gasturbine.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;This site&lt;/a&gt; describes the difficulties, starting with material choice, moving on to tolerances, and so on.  I don't think you want to go at this in your basement. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2191" LastActivityDate="2016-12-02T14:27:39.080" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3126" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3094" CreationDate="2016-12-02T14:58:43.683" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;What are the characteristics of the white dots? (That is, are the dots small raised bumps, do they denote where a hole will be drilled, are they integral to a piece-to-piece connection, etc...) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If these are small bumps that need to be added to the top of the black surfaces, your most time-effective solution is probably print the black component first (with placement references for where the white dots are to go), then switch materials and print the dots, and attach them to the black component.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Otherwise, you'll need a machine capable of printing in two materials simultaneously(ish). See some of the newer Stratasys machines if you have a good budget ha!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5095" LastActivityDate="2016-12-02T14:58:43.683" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3127" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3119" CreationDate="2016-12-02T16:22:57.553" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would think it's definitely possible, steel 3D printers are most likely capable of printing with the kind of precision you need (I've had experience designing and printing barrels for handguns as part of a forensic science research project), but be aware that with most processes I'm aware of, you'll need to go in post-production and do some polishing or surface refinement, specially for a turbine application where those temperatures are already high and any surface flaws won't help durability. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Otherwise, I would just make sure you use a material with a track record of meeting your specifications. Likely easier finding extremely reliable and robust materials to mill but 3D printing would be possible in theory. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Financially speaking, though I don't have any experience comparing the costs on that specific kind of a component, milling is likely going to be cheaper as long as you can find someone who will do single unit production runs. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personal opinion: I would go with milling. I've had a lot of experience with 3D printing and am a die-hard proponent of its merits, but given the lack of personal knowledge about how a 3D printed turbine would perform long-run, and the consequences of failure of something rotating at those speeds, I would be inclined to go the traditional manufacturing route.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5095" LastEditorUserId="5095" LastEditDate="2016-12-05T16:13:17.170" LastActivityDate="2016-12-05T16:13:17.170" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3128" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2678" CreationDate="2016-12-02T16:39:26.280" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;In our experience, the parts will continue to cure. I don't have the chemical science background to provide proof or evidence, but I operate from an assumption that if the part requires UV rays to cure, it will continue to be reactive to UV rays after it is considered &quot;cured&quot;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I too have found the same brittleness over long periods of time. The only experience I have with the moisture issue would be a small component designed and built for a cable pulley in the tail section of an aircraft as a temporary solution (acting on a non-critical trim control surface). The aircraft is based down here in Houston, Texas where we get some pretty gnarly humidity. The part did begin warping after a few months but we don't have definitive information indicating it was a moisture problem, or something more structural. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do know however, that if you aren't absolutely meticulous about cleaning ALL of that gelatin-like support material off of the part, it does wind up being more susceptible to slight deformities, and when you DO remove it all thoroughly,  it is then slightly more susceptible to the brittleness issue. Not sure if I'm the only one finding this, and apologies for not having the chemical background to provide more quantitative support.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5095" LastActivityDate="2016-12-02T16:39:26.280" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3129" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-12-02T20:22:25.327" Score="9" ViewCount="7158" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm considering using &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Category_6_cable&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;CAT6&lt;/a&gt; cables to connect my printer's extruder assembly to the control board. They seem like an elegant solution, but I've read conflicting opinions online on whether or not this would be feasible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would like to know if CAT6 cables can handle the required current, whether I should be worried about electromagnetic interference or other problems, and how I should pair up the wires. Cable length would be 30cm max.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are the relevant parts:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://e3d-online.com/Heater-Cartridge-12v-40w&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;E3D heater cartridge&lt;/a&gt; (2 wires)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://e3d-online.com/E3D-v6/Spares/Thermistor-Cartridge&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;E3D thermistor cartridge&lt;/a&gt; (2 wires)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://e3d-online.com/E3D-v6/Spares/30x30x10mm-12v-DC-Fan&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;30mm hotend fan&lt;/a&gt; (2 wires)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://printrbot.com/shop/auto-leveling-probe-2&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Z-axis auto-leveling probe&lt;/a&gt; (3 wires)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1Q6nW_lToPZe6Kou6VbDMoQ3sFleCJ02XV0y4piXL_Fg/pubhtml&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;NEMA 17 extruder motor&lt;/a&gt; (4 wires)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00MJUD1DW&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;50mm part cooling fan&lt;/a&gt; (2 wires)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;[cable A]&lt;/strong&gt;  I imagine I would use one CAT6 cable for parts 1-4, which form a logical unit (and in the future I might combine them into a removable module). I've been given to understand that power for the fan can be spliced from the z-probe or heater cartridge, so 8 wires should be enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;[cable B]&lt;/strong&gt;  I would use a second CAT6 cable for parts 5 and 6. There will be two spare wires, so I could potentially double the bandwidth for the motor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1998" LastActivityDate="2024-03-06T20:29:05.483" Title="Using CAT6 cables for 3D printer motor / sensors / fans" Tags="|electronics|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3130" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3129" CreationDate="2016-12-02T22:40:59.660" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;The ampacity question is not completely answerable because CAT6 does not specify wire gauge, so the current limit will depend on the specific gauge you get. CAT6 can be anywhere from 22 AWG to 24 AWG, and depending on who you ask this can be good for as much as 7A or as little as 0.5A. Given that you will have a bunch of wires in a bundle, this may cause them to heat up more than if they were in free air. For the steppers (1-2A) a single wire should suffice, but for the heater (around 3-4A) you might want to double up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EMI will likely not cause any problems regardless of how you wire things up. CAT6 cables have the wires twisted in pairs of 2. Some people recommend to take advantage of these pairs: the +12V and GND of the heater should use a pair, each of the two coils of the steppers should have their own separate pairs. The reasoning behind this is that with equal current flowing in opposite directions in each wire of the pair, the generated electromagnetic fields will cancel out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Twisted pairs are usually used when dealing with multiple pairs of wires that are carrying high frequency signals that might affect each other. The main concern for crosstalk in this application is if the stepper motor might cause the endstop to be erroneously triggered, but this is only a concern during homing when the feedrate (and thus frequency of the signal) is low anyways.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastActivityDate="2016-12-02T22:40:59.660" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3131" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3112" CreationDate="2016-12-03T01:38:04.457" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;you can use screen for that. Open a terminal window and type  &lt;code&gt;screen /dev/ttyUSB0 115200&lt;/code&gt; The general form is  &lt;code&gt;screen serialdevice baudrate&lt;/code&gt; You will then see everything that the printer sends. Everything you type will be send to the printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="204" LastActivityDate="2016-12-03T01:38:04.457" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3133" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3111" CreationDate="2016-12-03T15:13:00.377" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since 50% of the bed is uninsulated, you're definately into diminishing returns as soon as you start adding any insulation.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;With that area, I think you are looking at 1.2W per kelvin for a 2mm thickness. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm guessing a bit with these powers, but roughly, maybe from 100 W un-insulated, 75 with 2mm, 60W with 4mm. You can get a reasonably accurate measure of the power by looking at the duty cycle of the heating element.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Actually, its not clear if your primary goal is to reduce energy/maintain a very high temperature, or speed the initial heating. You can place a temporary sheet of cork on top of the bed (preferably extending over the edges to prevent convection) and this will significantly improve heat-up times.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4927" LastEditorUserId="4927" LastEditDate="2017-01-06T21:47:53.503" LastActivityDate="2017-01-06T21:47:53.503" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3134" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3136" CreationDate="2016-12-04T00:02:37.340" Score="11" ViewCount="15354" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought a self-made Reprap Prusa Mendel 3 printer, modified to be built from cheaper materials, and immediately after the deal I got various problems. I fixed the majority of them, but don't know what the reason of the strange extruder behavior is: The stepper motor is not rotating while extruding filament, it's moving back and forth with small steps instead. I made some footage, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OcF9qxtxIO0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Reprap Prusa Mendel 3d printer extruder problem&lt;/a&gt;, hoping that someone has met a similar problem before.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If so, please tell me what to do to make it work as it should.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The obvious option while encountering this problem was to slacken the bolt which holds this parts together (in the left bottom corner of the video), but that did not help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas are very welcomed. Thanks for your time. I hope this is an appropriate kind of question here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5104" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2017-05-18T06:20:59.347" LastActivityDate="2020-01-04T20:09:52.320" Title="Extruder stepper motor problem, what can be wrong?" Tags="|extruder|stepper|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3136" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3134" CreationDate="2016-12-04T08:10:09.273" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your controller board probably requires calibration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It sounds like, maybe, the extruder's stepper motor is &lt;em&gt;not receiving sufficient&lt;/em&gt; current, to make it turn. &lt;strong&gt;Or&lt;/strong&gt;, somewhat confusingly, maybe the stepper is &lt;em&gt;receiving too much current&lt;/em&gt;, and overheating.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You don't say which controller board you are using, but regardless, there should be an adjustable potentiometer on the board, next to each of the stepper drivers, or on the stepper driver daughter boards.  Like so,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xBF9V.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xBF9V.png&quot; alt=&quot;Photo of the adjustable potentiometer&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This potentiomenter adjusts the &lt;em&gt;reference voltage&lt;/em&gt; used to control the stepper motor. From this &lt;em&gt;reference voltage&lt;/em&gt;, and the resistance of the stepper coils, one can determine the current, which is used to drive the stepper motor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the stepper driver of the extruder, you could try turning this adjustable potentiometer slightly, in order to provide more current to the stepper, in turn to provide &lt;em&gt;sufficient torque&lt;/em&gt; such that the motor is able to turn. &lt;strong&gt;Or&lt;/strong&gt;, less current to stop the stepper from overheating.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The adjustments &lt;em&gt;can&lt;/em&gt; be made whilst the power is on, but a &lt;strong&gt;non-ferrous&lt;/strong&gt; (i..e. plastic) screw driver should be used, so as to avoid short circuits. Also care needs to be taken, when turning the potentiometer, as they have been known to just fall apart whilst being turned. If you are paranoid, then make micro adjustments with the power turned off, and then turn back on to check the behaviour.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Note&lt;/strong&gt;: it should go without saying that one should &lt;strong&gt;never disconnect a stepper whilst the power is on&lt;/strong&gt;, as both the driver and the stepper motor may be irrevocably damaged.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The photo above is taken from &lt;a href=&quot;https://bootsindustries.com/pots-calibration-ramps-1-4/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;POTs Calibration – RAMPS 1.4&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If a POT is set too high then the associated stepper driver will tend to overheat and go into over-temperature thermal shutdown (to prevent damage to its components). The first sign of overheating is erratic stepper motor behavior. Typically, this can be recognized by the sounds of the stepper motor suddenly losing power (thermal shutdown). If no load or movement is required of the motor, it is hard to detect whether it is over-powered as the driver is barely producing any heat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Conversely, if the POT is set too low, the stepper motor can enter an underpowered state. This can be recognized by a lack of holding torque and a stepper motor that is skipping steps because the necessary movement  requires a higher power demand than the POT setting allows for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Driver cooling&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition to the possibility of the stepper motor over heating, it could be possible that the stepper driver is overheating, although the symptoms may be different, to those that you are experiencing. Regardless, you may still find it advantageous to cooler the controller/driver board with a fan that is always on (not temperature controlled).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Additional reading&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;RigidWiki - &lt;a href=&quot;http://rigidtalk.com/wiki/index.php?title=Stepper_Driver_Adjustment&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Stepper Driver Adjustment&lt;/a&gt;, which goes into further detail about the adjustment of the potentiometers, that I outlined above, as well as the &lt;em&gt;reference voltage&lt;/em&gt; and the adjustment thereof.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;RepRap Wiki - &lt;a href=&quot;http://reprap.org/wiki/RepRapPro_Setting_Motor_Currents&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;RepRapPro Setting Motor Currents&lt;/a&gt; describes a different controller to yours, but goes into the process of adjustment, and description of the &lt;em&gt;reference voltage&lt;/em&gt; (which is applicable to all boards):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The wiper on each potentiometer generates a DC voltage that is sent to the chip. This is the reference voltage; it defines how much current the stepping motor driver chip supplies to the motor. The bigger the reference voltage (VREF), the higher the current (A) that the chip will send to the motor. For most NEMA14 motors, the current maximum is 1A, but this will generally cause it to get warm, so a setting of 750mA is recommended. For NEMA17 motors, depending on size, the limit on current is generally between 1.3A and 1.7A. If you drive stepper motors with more current than they were designed for, the motor will get hot, and may be damaged.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Pololu - &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.pololu.com/product/1183&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;A4988 Stepper Motor Driver Carrier with Voltage Regulators&lt;/a&gt; - this is a very common stepper driver.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;MyHomeFab - &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.my-home-fab.de/epages/64756193.mobile/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/64756193/Categories/Dokumentationen/Technische_Beschreibungen/DRV8825_Schrittmotor_Strom_einstellen&amp;amp;Locale=en_GB&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;DRV8825 Adjust Stepper Current&lt;/a&gt; goes into the adjustment of the reference voltage, for the commonly used DRV8825, which is an alternative to the popular A4988.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;This thread, about non-actuating steppers, may also be useful, &lt;a href=&quot;http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?41,219920&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Motors&lt;/a&gt;, which mentions &lt;a href=&quot;http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?41,219920,222621#msg-222621&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;setting the trimpots&lt;/a&gt; and points the OP to RepRap Wiki - &lt;a href=&quot;http://reprap.org/wiki/Pololu_stepper_driver_board&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Pololu stepper driver board&lt;/a&gt;, which, in turn, refers to this thread, &lt;a href=&quot;http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?4,116813,116832,quote=1&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Strange stepper behavior&lt;/a&gt; and this video, &lt;a href=&quot;https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=MsOBW3lnjnI&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;video-2012-02-02-16-37-26.mp4&lt;/a&gt;, which describes a jitter in the stepper behaviour.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4762" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:29:41.667" LastActivityDate="2016-12-13T08:36:59.493" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3137" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3140" CreationDate="2016-12-04T21:19:34.110" Score="5" ViewCount="638" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am using an M3D printer and loaded an STL design with holes in the middle:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UMD0V.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UMD0V.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Screenshot of STL design with holes in the middle&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, the output is an object without holes (so I stopped the printing): &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RrlBC.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RrlBC.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Photo of the first few layers of actual print, without holes&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What can be done to be able to print with holes?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5110" LastEditorUserId="4927" LastEditDate="2017-03-07T18:14:35.233" LastActivityDate="2017-03-07T18:14:35.233" Title="Printing objects with holes using M3D Printer" Tags="|slicing|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3138" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2789" CreationDate="2016-12-04T21:27:07.723" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure how similar the two systems are, but I use a Stratasys uPrint SE Plus and I've run into a similar problem. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are two rollers in the head that pull the filament through to the extruder nozzle, and in one instance they appeared to have heated up, melted the filament enough to create two &quot;indentions&quot; on either side of the filament, making it such that the rollers had no purchase on the filament itself. There was never any clog, no material feed error, but it was still failing to print. Wound up having to replace the head altogether.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Again, not sure how similar the extrusion mechanics are in the M3D, but suggest checking the components that actually advance the filament, and the filament itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5095" LastEditorUserId="5095" LastEditDate="2016-12-05T16:15:38.230" LastActivityDate="2016-12-05T16:15:38.230" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3139" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3137" CreationDate="2016-12-04T21:44:26.397" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Case 1:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There may be an issue with the precision of the print nozzle, not being able to fully articulate the hole. That is to say, the printer is trying to print it with holes, but the material is filling in that area.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Try increasing the size of the hole. Granted, it is not an exact process but there may be an inner hole diameter that winds up mimicking the diameter you're looking for after the material extrudes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This case could be rejected by nature of the printer depositing straight lines through the center diameter of the cylinder's base.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Case 2:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There may be some discrepancy between the file's appearance and the file's information.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you downloaded the file from somewhere like ThingiVerse, try designing the part yourself if possible. If you designed it yourself, overwrite the file with a second version. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Case 3:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If downloaded, verify that the center hole is extruded though the entire thickness of the part. It may be that it's extruded most of the way through and there is a sealed bottom layer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5095" LastActivityDate="2016-12-04T21:44:26.397" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3140" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3137" CreationDate="2016-12-05T10:37:07.747" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Have you tried letting it print a few more layers? It is very common that printers use the first few layers to create a &lt;strong&gt;raft&lt;/strong&gt;, which will make the model adhere better to the bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I believe this illustration from Simplify3D &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.simplify3d.com/support/articles/rafts-skirts-and-brims/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;displays this well&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4xaFS.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4xaFS.png&quot; alt=&quot;raft vs skirt vs brim&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="115" LastActivityDate="2016-12-05T10:37:07.747" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3142" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3129" CreationDate="2016-12-05T15:20:14.400" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;I did this for some of the wiring on my printer, and it's working fine so far. The two cautions are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;At @tom pointed out, the heater is the high current item, so be careful of the wire gauge, and avoid running the wire where air can't circulate well to cool it. Wire ratings differ greatly depending on whether they're in a bundle (poor air circulation) or free. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;For the most part I agree that EMI shouldn't be a problem -- but if you switch to thermocouples it might become a problem -- they're much more sensitive, and this might have been part of the problem I described at &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/204/how-to-get-consistent-and-accurate-readings-from-thermocouples&quot;&gt;How to get consistent and accurate readings from thermocouples?&lt;/a&gt; (though alternate wiring didn't completely solve the problem in that case).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T13:00:58.447" LastActivityDate="2016-12-05T15:20:14.400" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3143" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="513" CreationDate="2016-12-06T08:02:09.437" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was very concerned about this issue when I bought my own 3d printer, so I decided to design fumes extraction solution for this. It is tailored only for my Zortrax M200 but I hope that it is good example of how to solve this problem with limited budget.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1158639&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1158639&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5122" LastActivityDate="2016-12-06T08:02:09.437" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3144" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3119" CreationDate="2016-12-06T17:00:14.557" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some companies are already on the move with this idea. I think I remember hearing that &lt;a href=&quot;http://optics.org/news/6/4/7&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Pratt and Whitney&lt;/a&gt; and Boeing are 3D printing some of the smaller air foils.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The advantages being that they can achieve manufacturing of more complex, more efficient parts without the hassle of quality control, expensive fixturing/maintenance, and less hands on their proprietary parts and processes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most often, a metal alloy part is &quot;printed&quot; using SLA or SLS (commonly), but it's more or less just bonded. Bonding is either done via laser sintering or some form of epoxy for these types of printing processes. The part is pretty much useless for aerospace purposes at this point because you can just break it apart with your hands, as it is very brittle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once the metal is bonded in the desired shape, it goes in a furnace to either solidify the sintered material or the epoxy is replaced with another metal such as bronze or nickel. Also during this operation, the part is heat treated to receive the desired material structure. The changes to the material during this process can help set its strength and heat resistance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A quick Google search on &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/#q=inconel+3d+printing&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Inconel 3D Printing&lt;/a&gt;&quot; yields a couple companies that can 3D print &quot;exotic&quot; metals such as titanium and inconel. Chances are if a 3D printer can process inconel, it can print most other aerospace materials.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3D printing exotic materials, at this point, is really just gluing sand and baking it in the oven.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="98" LastActivityDate="2016-12-06T17:00:14.557" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3146" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3122" CreationDate="2016-12-06T19:39:36.003" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The real fire risks with 3d printers are electrical in nature. Lets say your wires come undone and happen to come next to the other lead. If it archs and happened to be in just the right position. Pretty unlikely. Once I did a bad solder job and when I was working on my printer. The wires literally burst into flame in my lap. No damage done (other than needing a new board). That said we often see people who have their boards catch fire in the flashforge owner groups. Weak solder joints, and over all bad quality.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do you really have something to worry about with Cork? No. A series of unfortunate events would have to happen, and more likely your board will cause a fire. That said I would look into adding a layer of aluminum and reflect some of that heat back up. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are that worried I would just remove the sheet. Unless you are having issues calibrating you heated build plate / PIDs there is no reason to use insulation. I only use it on printers that have a hard time hitting ABS temps of 100c. Even then I only use tin foil and try to trap the air underneath. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just a side note. If you are having heated build plate issues maybe what you really need is a heat chamber.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2146" LastActivityDate="2016-12-06T19:39:36.003" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3147" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2809" CreationDate="2016-12-06T19:49:17.353" Score="3" Body="&lt;h1&gt;diagnosing a heated bed&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Switch the hot end and the heater bed wires on the board. See if there is a difference. (Note that it will not reach a thermal limit when plugged in this way! So don't leave it on too long!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After that, if you see that your heat increases with the hot end's wires and the hot end being set on in software then you know the issue is likely with the board. At which point try updating / reflashing the board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively, you can try a second board and see if it makes a difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the bed does not heat up even using the heater cartridge connectors, then your heated build plate likely needs to be replaced. Or the wire needs to be replaced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are running Ramps or a board that uses 2 hot end outputs you can likely reprogram it to use hot end heater 2 as the new output for your heated bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2146" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:29:41.667" LastActivityDate="2018-12-21T14:20:40.970" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="3148" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="475" CreationDate="2016-12-06T19:52:57.150" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Given the last few questions you have I am going to say that you have too much mass.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;F = m * a. If you are trying to move a heavy plate, you will need to reduce the Jerk setting. As well as maximum acceleration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Post your firmware settings for more advice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also just for completion, sometimes the Pololus overheat, that can cause it too. As well as a loose belt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2146" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2024-01-12T17:24:19.720" LastActivityDate="2024-01-12T17:24:19.720" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="3149" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3129" CreationDate="2016-12-07T19:22:13.330" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;CAT6 cable by itself is not a problem, it is typically 23 AWG solid core wire which can take you to 4A just fine.  The real problem comes from the connectors you use.  CAT6 usually goes hand in hand with 8p8c ethernet connectors which only have contacts rated to 500mA.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also typically CAT6 cable is meant to be stationary (hence the solid core wires), so I'd go for something stranded.  &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-electrical-wire/=15d9c3w&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;McMaster sells some nice cheap cabling&lt;/a&gt; that fits your needs, and it's actually meant for moving platforms like a CNC machine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5150" LastActivityDate="2016-12-07T19:22:13.330" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3151" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3153" CreationDate="2016-12-08T09:14:27.373" Score="5" ViewCount="7624" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know where I can get a free 3D design (STEP or STL) of an M4 Screw and nut? I have found only an M3 on Thingiverse: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:729842&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;M3 Bolt&lt;/a&gt; by &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thingiverse.com/Kaleta&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Kaleta&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5110" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2016-12-10T22:19:11.340" LastActivityDate="2023-01-31T14:16:01.957" Title="M4 screw and nut for 3D printing?" Tags="|3d-models|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3152" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3151" CreationDate="2016-12-08T12:42:12.050" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The thing you linked to describes itself as being generated from a parametric model:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thingiverse.com/apps/customizer/run?thing_id=193647&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.thingiverse.com/apps/customizer/run?thing_id=193647&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To generate any different bolt or nut, you will need to identify the correct dimensions for not only the thread (where hints exist in the customiser), but also for the hex head. These are obviously less critical to define than the thread.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you have generated a custom model, you can share it and answer your own question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4927" LastActivityDate="2016-12-08T12:42:12.050" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3153" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3151" CreationDate="2016-12-08T12:45:32.557" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can get a model for nearly everything McMaster-Carr sells from their website.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;M4 Hex Head Screw - &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.mcmaster.com/#91280a140/=15dmpx8&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.mcmaster.com/#91280a140/=15dmpx8&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;M4 Nut - &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.mcmaster.com/#90592a090/=15dmqjy&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.mcmaster.com/#90592a090/=15dmqjy&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The options to download models are to the right of the drawings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.mcmaster.com/help/drawingsandmodels.asp?sesnextrep=301313211397959#disclaimer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;NOTE: the site does prohibit use of these models for direct printing.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;You shall not use a CAD model to engage in 3D printing or other&#xA;  fabrication of the object depicted in the CAD model for any other&#xA;  purpose. You shall not otherwise redistribute or make available the&#xA;  CAD models (or any design drawings or prototypes that incorporate&#xA;  them) to any third parties, including third parties in the business of&#xA;  selling products similar to the products sold by us.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="233" LastEditorUserId="233" LastEditDate="2016-12-09T20:23:08.620" LastActivityDate="2016-12-09T20:23:08.620" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3154" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-12-08T13:50:38.080" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2016-12-08T13:50:38.080" LastActivityDate="2016-12-08T13:50:38.080" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3155" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-12-08T13:50:38.080" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2016-12-08T13:50:38.080" LastActivityDate="2016-12-08T13:50:38.080" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3156" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3134" CreationDate="2016-12-08T13:55:27.327" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I also faced similar problem. Mine was a self-made marlin/repetier. The problem was that the motor current was much less than the motor requirement and the axis were not calibrated properly. Giving recommended current according to your motor ratings and limiting your feedrate according to your calibration should work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5162" LastActivityDate="2016-12-08T13:55:27.327" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3157" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3134" CreationDate="2016-12-08T15:29:30.883" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the stepper &lt;strong&gt;never&lt;/strong&gt; turns, even with no filament loaded, it is more likely to be a bad connection to one of the two coils or a bad stepper driver, or a bad motor. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Seems to be a frequent enough problem that they supplied a spare driver with my machine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Perhaps you can try swapping drivers to see if the problem follows the driver. You can disconnect the motor with power off and measure the coil resistances with a multimeter to see if they are sensible, which will weed out a bad harness, connector or motor. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3992" LastActivityDate="2016-12-08T15:29:30.883" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3159" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3163" CreationDate="2016-12-08T20:56:15.760" Score="8" ViewCount="227" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just got my HICTOP Prusa i3 Aluminium frame printer and finished putting it together. After setting it to preheat, I realized the bed was not level - I adjusted it and accidentally caused the head to crash into the bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It sounded like something popped, and the printer restarted. It is now showing a &lt;code&gt;MINTEMP&lt;/code&gt; error message, and both bed and hotend temperatures read 0°C.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only visible damage is that a thin layer came off the printbed - After testing with a multimeter, I realized that the metal under this layer is connected to power. As both the bed and hotend were heating, I believe I may have caused a short.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Replacing the thermistor on the hotend with a spare did not solve the issue. I tested the thermistor on the printbed with a multimeter, and it seems to be working correctly (resistance value around ~200 k&amp;Omega; at room temperature).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which leads me to believe that I may have damaged the control board. What do I do?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: This is not a firmware problem as the printer was getting correct temperature readings before that. Also, I have a second extruder thermistor port that is unused. If I did damage my board, could I edit &lt;code&gt;pins.h&lt;/code&gt; and &lt;code&gt;configuration.h&lt;/code&gt; to use this port instead, and completely disconnect the heated printbed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5169" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2016-12-10T21:24:26.263" LastActivityDate="2016-12-10T21:25:28.950" Title="MINTEMP error after crash" Tags="|reprap|hotend|thermistor|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3160" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3161" CreationDate="2016-12-09T00:31:53.750" Score="15" ViewCount="17115" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just want to ask if anyone has successfully printed a screw (M3 or M4). Is the printed output usable as a screw? What printer is capable of printing screws? I am using an M3D printer - is there a configuration to successfully print a screw that is usable?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can anyone share a picture of the best 3D printed screw?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5110" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2016-12-10T22:19:05.183" LastActivityDate="2020-10-28T21:20:01.770" Title="Printing screws - is the output usable? (M3 or M4)" Tags="|fdm|quality|" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3161" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3160" CreationDate="2016-12-09T09:37:19.293" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;well... it's hard to imagine printing M3 or even M4&#xA;I haven't try but I haven't because I'm pretty sure it's not possible (on my printer of course)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;but some time ago I've tried M8 which is of course way from your needs&#xA;it was printed on 0.1mm layer height&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;it went ok into the nut without any problems but the strength is not very high I suppose&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know the quality is poor but even such bad photo shows issues&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tRoxw.jpg&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tRoxw.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QFKKI.jpg&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QFKKI.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1211" LastActivityDate="2016-12-09T09:37:19.293" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3162" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2909" CreationDate="2016-12-09T14:12:55.747" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can always add to the starting code as told in an answer above. Also for the scrapping, you might want to set Z_HOMING_HEIGHT to prevent further damage to the hotend. If the Z axis is below the homing height, on homing x or y will first cause z axis to travel to the homing height and then proceed with homing of x or y axis.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5162" LastActivityDate="2016-12-09T14:12:55.747" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3163" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3159" CreationDate="2016-12-10T21:25:28.950" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;After replacing the control board, it now prints flawlessly. Apparently,I really did damage the control board...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5169" LastActivityDate="2016-12-10T21:25:28.950" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3164" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-12-11T04:46:59.613" Score="7" ViewCount="520" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've done a few prints on my MakerBot Replicator+ now and I'm curious if anyone else knows what the typical &lt;strike&gt;lifespan is&lt;/strike&gt; signs of degradation are for the &lt;a href=&quot;https://store.makerbot.com/parts-accessories/grip-surface-3-pack-for-replicator/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;grip surface tape&lt;/a&gt;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm used to using Kapton tape in the past. Which will bubble, scratch, and even tear at times, indicating that the tape should be replaced. However, this new MakerBot &quot;Grip Tape&quot; is a very stiff, precut material, with extruded plastic anchors to help evenly spread the tape and keep it secure on the build platform. The tape also has texturing on the top face that helps with adhesion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, this new tape seems somewhat impervious to bubbling, scratches, and tears. I'm curious what signs I can look out for that indicate that this new grip tape needs to be replaced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strike&gt;Obviously the tape isn't a permanent solution, so what are some signs that the tape should be replaced?&lt;/strike&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="98" LastEditorUserId="98" LastEditDate="2016-12-13T18:22:22.460" LastActivityDate="2016-12-13T18:22:22.460" Title="What is the MakerBot Grip Surface lifespan?" Tags="|makerbot|maintenance|adhesion|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3165" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3175" CreationDate="2016-12-11T18:41:40.657" Score="9" ViewCount="479" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am planning a mechanical 40% keyboard build and are coincidentally on the home stretch of a homemade CNC project.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only thing the CNC needs to do for the keyboard project is to drill 7*48 holes. So what I need to do now is layout those holes in SVG. Therein lies the question. What resolution should I use for the SVG? I want to space the center of the keyboard switches 19 mm apart. An online pixel to mm converter suggested that 72 pixels is exactly 19.05 mm (which actually is what Cherry MX says should be their spacing).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, I do understand that this really doesn't matter, but I am curious as I am new on CNCs and was suspecting that there is a number that will &quot;just work&quot;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT:&#xA;For example, if I where to print the template (SVG) on a regular printer, what pixel to mm ratio should I use so that it would come out the size I want?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5194" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2016-12-13T06:37:47.387" LastActivityDate="2016-12-13T06:37:47.387" Title="What resolution (pixels/mm) should I use in SVG for CNC?" Tags="|resolution|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3166" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3160" CreationDate="2016-12-11T20:01:34.050" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've had success printing pins at that size, but not screws. At that size the pins were also exciedingly suceptible to stress, ie easy to break. At that scale the tolerances are a bit tight when printing that small and there will be small variances in precision with most printers. The best example of this is to try to print a lego piece, they dont snap together, some are slightly to big, and some are slightly to small and sometimes they will break. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5135" LastActivityDate="2016-12-11T20:01:34.050" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3167" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-12-11T22:33:20.137" Score="7" ViewCount="10012" Body="&lt;p&gt;Like many people, I have burnt the pins in the micro-controller connected to the E0 motor - the E0 motor is not working anymore and I need to print tomorrow! I need to control the extruder motor with the working E1 pins. How do I change this in firmware? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried to change to the pins in `pins_RAMPS.h&quot; but it was a complete fail, the motors that i tried to change didn't move. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a Arduino Mega + Ramps 1.3 in &quot;Extruder Fan Bed&quot; configuration, I use Repetier-Host as host and Marlin as firmware. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3791" LastEditorUserId="5223" LastEditDate="2016-12-13T13:37:02.283" LastActivityDate="2017-02-10T11:13:36.280" Title="How to use E1 as E0?" Tags="|marlin|firmware|motor|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3168" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2702" CreationDate="2016-12-11T23:09:52.103" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;As with all AM related simulation existing FEM codes are not well suited to solving the material addition issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is very hard for the codes you mentioned to simulate layer-by-layer and toolpath-by-toolpath material addition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There has been significant research in AM simulation, most of it focuses on the metal additive manufacturing processes. The simulation of the entire build process with complex geometry and material addition almost never occurs due to computational cost. For example &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.additivemanufacturing.media/blog/post/the-value-of-metal-and-powder-simulation&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this work&lt;/a&gt; is one of the most sophiticated simulations developed and it is so computationally expensive that only a single laser scan was performed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If what you actually want to achieve is stress/deformation of a FDM part then perform a structual analysis using anisotropic material properties that match that of your printed parts. I would assume that by now data for material properties of FDM parts with respect to machine parameters would be known at least for commonly implemented materials such as ABS and PC.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4639" LastActivityDate="2016-12-11T23:09:52.103" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3169" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3160" CreationDate="2016-12-11T23:25:06.003" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Its just not possible on a FDM machine. for example using a layer thickness of 0.1 which is standard there would only be 5 layers of material between each peak (the pitch) for a coarse M3 and a fine M3 would not even have four layers (&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/ISO_metric_screw_thread&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;wikipedia on ISO thread&lt;/a&gt;) which is just not enough layers to resolve the required shape. The tensile strength of such a bolt even if you could print it would be abysmal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4639" LastActivityDate="2016-12-11T23:25:06.003" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3170" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3164" CreationDate="2016-12-12T13:50:40.297" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's no quantitative formula for the lifespan of &lt;strong&gt;any&lt;/strong&gt; grip material, be it tape, glue, or PEI sheet.  If you find a lack of stiction and it's not due to small changes in the Z-origin (50 microns can make a big difference in the way the first layer grabs the bed!), then replace the tape.  It's cheap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just to be pedantic, torn and scarred tape should be replaced :-) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2191" LastActivityDate="2016-12-12T13:50:40.297" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3171" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3165" CreationDate="2016-12-12T16:41:27.640" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;SVG is a vector-graphics format, there's no particular reason it can't scale arbitrarily. Presumably the CNC software will allow you to select the scale of a pixel? If so, pick a scale that makes the math work out easily (so some integer number of pixels per millimeter). If not, it's probably documented somewhere for the specific tool you're using.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5209" LastActivityDate="2016-12-12T16:41:27.640" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3172" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3167" CreationDate="2016-12-12T18:42:09.727" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;As a quick and dirty solution you may try to enable two extruders in configuration file, re-upload firmware, and then edit your GCODE file to replace all E0 references with E1.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3839" LastActivityDate="2016-12-12T18:42:09.727" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3173" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-12-12T19:05:54.683" Score="2" ViewCount="1918" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have generated a few 3D prints in G-code using KISSlicer and Slic3r, but when I load them into Ultimaker Cura I'm unable to get anything. The number of layers says one but I cannot see anything and print option is not working. I have viewed these G-codes online and they are fine. I'm using a Lulzbot KITTAZ with v2 toolhead (hexagon) and I can print only using Ultimaker Cura. Please tell me what the reason for this is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4544" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-07-06T03:47:55.577" LastActivityDate="2019-07-06T06:01:02.587" Title="Unable to load G-code in Ultimaker Cura" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|g-code|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="3174" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-12-12T19:44:53.147" Score="5" ViewCount="194" Body="&lt;p&gt;What resources or methods would OpenSCAD users suggest to piece together disparate STL files?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd like to take an existing STL model-library of STL parts (head, torso, arms, legs) and make it a Thingiverse OpenSTL maker, similar to the castle generator and/or the puzzle generators available.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This way, users can generate a custom model using the designated parameters and download the model for printing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5214" LastEditorUserId="5214" LastEditDate="2016-12-12T22:41:34.433" LastActivityDate="2016-12-13T06:33:41.890" Title="Resources/methods to construct STL files using disparate parts using OpenSCAD" Tags="|3d-models|cad|open-source|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3175" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3165" CreationDate="2016-12-12T20:09:00.737" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strike&gt;I found one of those printer things that puts ink on dead trees and tested to print a simple SVG file.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;&amp;lt;svg xmlns=&quot;http://www.w3.org/2000/svg&quot;&#xA;     width=&quot;400px&quot; height=&quot;800px&quot;&amp;gt;&#xA;  &amp;lt;rect x=&quot;10&quot; y=&quot;10&quot; width=&quot;72&quot; height=&quot;72&quot; fill=&quot;#999999&quot; /&amp;gt;&#xA;  &amp;lt;rect x=&quot;10&quot; y=&quot;100&quot; width=&quot;378&quot; height=&quot;378&quot; fill=&quot;#999999&quot; /&amp;gt;&#xA;&amp;lt;/svg&amp;gt;&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As I suspected 72 pixels came out pretty much exactly 19mm. (72/19.05)*100~=378 came out 100mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given this I am going to assume that 72/19.05 is the de facto best pixel to mm ratio to use for CNC projects.&lt;/strike&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Found this documentation: &lt;a href=&quot;http://w3.org/TR/SVG/coords.html#Units&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://w3.org/TR/SVG/coords.html#Units&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;&amp;lt;svg xmlns=&quot;http://www.w3.org/2000/svg&quot;&#xA;     width=&quot;400px&quot; height=&quot;800px&quot;&amp;gt;&#xA;  &amp;lt;rect x=&quot;10&quot; y=&quot;10&quot; width=&quot;19.05mm&quot; height=&quot;19.05mm&quot; fill=&quot;#999999&quot; /&amp;gt;&#xA;  &amp;lt;rect x=&quot;10&quot; y=&quot;100&quot; width=&quot;100mm&quot; height=&quot;100mm&quot; fill=&quot;#999999&quot; /&amp;gt;&#xA;&amp;lt;/svg&amp;gt; &#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Much simpler to use mm as units right away &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5194" LastEditorUserId="5194" LastEditDate="2016-12-12T20:34:51.533" LastActivityDate="2016-12-12T20:34:51.533" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3176" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-12-12T20:57:16.917" Score="8" ViewCount="393" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have printed the XY resonance, Z resonance, bridging performance and the negative space tolerance test, from Makezine (&lt;a href=&quot;http://makezine.com/2014/11/07/how-to-evaluate-the-2015-make-3dp-test-probes/%22these%20can%20be%20found%20here%22&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;can be found here&lt;/a&gt;), and I have encountered the following errors in the prints.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Z resonance test:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The layers are shifting as the height is increasing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8SNn7s.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8SNn7s.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Shifted layers&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt; &lt;sub&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8SNn7.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Click Here for larger image&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;XY resonance test:&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is continuous extrusion problem that is occurring on the same side, I have printed it a few times and every time I'm getting the same problem at the same side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KPj64s.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KPj64s.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Continuous extrusion issue&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt; &lt;sub&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8SNn7s.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Click Here&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sub&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8OezHs.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8OezHs.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Continuous extrusion issue - closeup&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt; &lt;sub&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8OezH.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Click Here&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Bridging performance test:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has severe infill drop, the test recommended printing without supports.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RqsZQs.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RqsZQs.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Bridging performance test, with infill drop - top view&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt; &lt;sub&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RqsZQ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Click Here&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sub&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6ZoWks.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6ZoWks.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Bridging performance test, with infill drop - side view&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt; &lt;sub&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6ZoWk.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Click Here&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Negative space tolerances:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Except for the 0.6 pin, I was unable to remove any of other pins.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm using a Lulzbot KITTAZ printer with V2c hexagon tool head (0.35 mm). These are the settings that I used while printing these objects:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Layer thickness: 0.1 mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;infill: 20%&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Printing temperature: 230°C&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Printbed: 85°C&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bottom and top layer thickness: 0.1 mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please provide suggestions on improving the printer performance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4544" LastEditorUserId="98" LastEditDate="2016-12-19T07:00:38.257" LastActivityDate="2016-12-23T21:40:00.107" Title="Unidentified problem in printing" Tags="|extrusion|infill|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3177" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3174" CreationDate="2016-12-12T21:43:34.310" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'll offer up the following options, without waiting for an answer to my question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One can import a specific STL file into OpenSCAD and perform rotation, translation and scale, but it would be &quot;clunky&quot; as you'd be making miniscule changes to the parameters for those actions. Each imported object would have to be manipulated individually via the changes in the code. If your imported objects have quantifiable dimensions, that is, if you know specific measurements, you would have an easier time of the project.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are not limiting yourself to OpenSCAD, I'd recommend the easy-to-use MeshMixer. I recently &quot;assembled&quot; the parts of a cosplay &quot;weapon&quot; for a friend. All the parts were individual STL files and were positioned in 3-space using MeshMixer to make the parts appear as if the project were printed and assembled.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The transform tool in Meshmixer is a graphic three-arrow/three-axis manipulator icon. Grab an arrow tip and the model moves in the direction of the drag. Grab an arc between two arrows and the model rotates. If you want five degree rotation increments, move the mouse outward after the grab and get a calibration circle. When the mouse is on the circle, you get snaps to five degrees. If you need smaller movement, move the mouse out even farther from the center.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The 3-space presented in Meshmixer gives you the ability to align pieces/parts in all three dimensions, to your satisfaction. There is a model hide and a model-ghost feature as well, to assist the placement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I expect that one could use a program such as Blender, but the learning curve is more like a chasm or cliff-face.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One could use an engineering-focus program such as SolidWorks, Fusion 360 and so many others, but I think your head, arms, legs, torso reference means you aren't using orthogonal models more suited to those programs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Meshmixer, like OpenSCAD is free. I use both and approve this message.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastActivityDate="2016-12-12T21:43:34.310" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3178" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3179" CreationDate="2016-12-12T22:13:03.630" Score="7" ViewCount="294" Body="&lt;p&gt;3D printing can be used to make injection molds of unimaginable complexity but which kind of 3D printing process is suitable when? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Suppose that a part is to be made using injection molding in large quantity for an extended period of time, what Additive Manufacturing (AM) process will be the best, such that the mold does not give way too soon? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, suppose that the part to be made is custom and only has to be made in small quantities - that is to say that the injection mold will be used limited number of items and then thrown away - which is the best AM technique then? Best in the sense of economic feasibility, lower cost, lower capital investment etc.?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5216" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2017-02-13T22:35:38.197" LastActivityDate="2017-02-13T22:35:38.197" Title="3D printed mold techniques for long and short term usage" Tags="|print-quality|print-material|molds|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3179" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3178" CreationDate="2016-12-13T02:31:49.533" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, this is very broad. That said...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For high detail you want SLA. i.e. jewelry. If you just want a prototype of a mold, you can do a standard FDM style printer (95% of printers are FDM, and that number is a guess)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Really, you should be asking what material you need for your mold, but you can open a second question for that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do more research on injection molding. There is a great deal of information on how molds are made, i.e. &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=seZqq1qxW30&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;How It's Made Plastic injection molds&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will see there is a vast difference between a plastic, or silicon, mold and an injection molding machine. You are thinking that injection molding as a single mold, when it is really it is a system composing of several pieces of heavy duty machinery that can pump out hundreds of items a day automatically. However, it usually starts at 20k USD for the tooling for injection molding. Your costs could be a fraction of that or could be several times that. This is just a generality. So, if you are making 100 units you won't want to go down that route. For 10,000 units, on the other hand, it would be acceptable. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2146" LastEditorUserId="2146" LastEditDate="2016-12-13T16:33:13.877" LastActivityDate="2016-12-13T16:33:13.877" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3181" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3176" CreationDate="2016-12-13T04:37:01.513" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Okay so one problem at a time.. You have several issues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1 You will likely note while it prints, the pillar will almost catch and sometimes twang as the layers get higher and higher. Issue here is you are over extruding a bit and the head is dragging on the print. Add some leverage and then you get this strange pattern. Letting it cool more between layers or by adding a fan will also help. A small pillar like this will not have much time to cool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or it could be that your Z is not straight. Whats the name of this test? Right the Z resonance test. Check out your smooth rods and screws and see if they are perfect or not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2 Hmm maybe some oozing / over extrusion. I mean it will never be perfect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3 Looks good to me. You are printing PLA not ABS?. Looking at your temps and I hope you are doing ABS.. Which probably should bridge a bit better. That said even my highly calibrated machines would have a hard time with a bridge like that. I've been at this for years. Fan will help. Different material will help. I mean you &lt;em&gt;are&lt;/em&gt; printing over air. That said 1-2 degrees will make a difference. Try slowing it down. Try lowering temp. Add that fan. Remember every spool will need a new perfect temp. Even a different color will need calibration as the pigments change the temperature profile.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Last over all, simplify 3d seems to really help. I rarely spend time calibrating these days. Albeit they cost a lot. &lt;em&gt;no affiliation&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also like this visual guide &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://reprap.org/wiki/Print_Troubleshooting_Pictorial_Guide&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://reprap.org/wiki/Print_Troubleshooting_Pictorial_Guide&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT. I see you have added more photos!&#xA;For the Z axis, I stick with my first assessment. Over-extrusion. Or it could just be getting too hot the higher you go. Maybe add a min time between layers option if your slicer supports it. Fan is good too. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;XY resonance.. Tricky tricky. My research shows this can be solved by using a different slicer program. You will have to research how to solve this with your preferred program. Maybe try to tighten belts, and tweek your oozebane settings. I would also play with acceleration and Jerk at the Firmware level.. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Last one, Bridging. You have bigger issues than bridging. All that shows is you don't have temp dialed in 100% yet. 230 might be high.. 85 for PLA would be high as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2146" LastEditorUserId="2146" LastEditDate="2016-12-23T21:40:00.107" LastActivityDate="2016-12-23T21:40:00.107" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3182" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3174" CreationDate="2016-12-13T06:33:41.890" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;While this is probably (?) not suitable for the Thingiverse customizer, OpenSCAD has a decent &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikibooks.org/wiki/OpenSCAD_User_Manual/Using_OpenSCAD_in_a_command_line_environment#Makefile_example&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Makefile support&lt;/a&gt;. In &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/vwegert/Deltonator&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;a project I am currently working on&lt;/a&gt;, I have a set of include files that start off with some configurable parameters, then provide some computed dimensions based on these parameters which are then used to render the individual components. Through the Makefile/.deps mechanism, the system keeps track of which component .scad file is influenced by which settings file and automatically rebuilds the parts that might be affected. (Note that the .deps files are not checked into the repository.) In the assembled model, I merely &lt;code&gt;import&lt;/code&gt; the individual rendered STL files (in my case, always through some wrapper module for coloring and BOM generation).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4620" LastActivityDate="2016-12-13T06:33:41.890" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3183" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3167" CreationDate="2016-12-13T10:19:05.697" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would change the pin assignments by swapping E0 and E1 in &lt;code&gt;pins_RAMPS.h&lt;/code&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5223" LastEditorUserId="5970" LastEditDate="2017-02-10T11:13:36.280" LastActivityDate="2017-02-10T11:13:36.280" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3184" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-12-13T10:33:24.760" Score="5" ViewCount="443" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are there any extruders and printers that do a good job with ceramic clay?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I assume the clay has to be fine grained and with enough water added to be able to be pushed out through the extruder's nozzle. I also assume the print speed would have to be arther low for the already printed layers to gain stability before printing the next layer. Perhaps some extra equipment on the printer to spped up this drying process?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the same time, the print speed can't be too low: if the bottom starts to dry enough to start shrinking, the object will crack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, some solutions I've seen tend to result in rather low resolution/thick layers, which is negative.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, what equipment is &quot;out there&quot;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5224" LastActivityDate="2017-12-21T13:11:09.370" Title="3D printers for ceramic clay?" Tags="|extruder|print-material|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3185" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3331" CreationDate="2016-12-13T10:36:31.993" Score="12" ViewCount="33280" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have Prusa i3 derivative with MK8 extruder and Marlin 1.1RC8 as firmware. I already reduced the default speeds as well as the accelerations. But sometimes when trying to print with BQ PLA filament (220°C), mostly during filling areas, my extruder clicks. The below screenshot of Slic3rs Layers view shows the clicking &quot;lines&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Rzmxn.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Rzmxn.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What settings I need to change to avoid the overextrusion in this case?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5223" LastEditorUserId="5223" LastEditDate="2016-12-15T16:16:45.647" LastActivityDate="2019-02-25T22:09:21.567" Title="Extruder clicks" Tags="|extruder|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3186" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3185" CreationDate="2016-12-13T11:30:17.993" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The only time that I've observed clicking from the extruder on my Anet-A8 is on the first layers when I have the head height set too low - the nozzle is unable to extrude at a high enough rate to allow the filament to progress as requested.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have a somewhat repeatable scenario, you could try reducing the filament feed rate to 90% or so, and see what effect that has. I have already observed with one of my reels of filament that 90% feed rate gives me a less over-filled solid area, so maybe the default feed rates are a little on the high side (or this filament is of excessive diameter).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4927" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-02-25T22:09:21.567" LastActivityDate="2019-02-25T22:09:21.567" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="3188" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3184" CreationDate="2016-12-13T12:30:26.633" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I cant speak for the quality or type of clay, but there are several designs out there that print in clay. Here is the first one that popped up on my google search.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wasproject.it/w/en/wasp-launches-the-new-professional-clay-extruder/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.wasproject.it/w/en/wasp-launches-the-new-professional-clay-extruder/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="186" LastActivityDate="2016-12-13T12:30:26.633" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3189" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3192" CreationDate="2016-12-13T16:10:42.753" Score="5" ViewCount="994" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking to buy my first 3D Printer, on a tight budget of $250. Unfortunately, this printer that I found on Amazon comes with all the bells and whistles, &lt;em&gt;except&lt;/em&gt; for a heated bed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to know if this would affect printing severely, as I have read that the plastic/ filament cools down rather quickly, and that it results in Printer &quot;fails&quot;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm actually a bit nervous with this buy, as I don't want to spend $250 on a printer that produces 90% print fails.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An example of the printer I'm referring to is the &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B015FXQZ6O&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Cube 3 Printer, Grey&#xA;by 3D Systems&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1722" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2016-12-13T21:46:01.177" LastActivityDate="2019-02-20T14:23:17.600" Title="Non-Heated Beds affect on 3D Prints" Tags="|heated-bed|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3190" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3191" CreationDate="2016-12-13T17:08:38.697" Score="4" ViewCount="4897" Body="&lt;p&gt;I wanted to extend the E3D V6's extruder heater and the thermistor wires. Is it ok to solder extension wires or does it have to be crimp only! Also are regular wires ok or does it have to be some special cable?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5113" LastActivityDate="2016-12-13T19:36:27.187" Title="Extending extruder heater and thermistor wires" Tags="|hotend|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3191" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3190" CreationDate="2016-12-13T17:10:13.417" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Soldering is fine, both for the thermistor wires as for the heater.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The wires don't need to be particularly special, though there are some things you should keep in mind:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Current. The heater can draw up to 3-4A, the wires need to be able to handle this. The wires for the thermistor can be thinner.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Flexibility. The hotend (presumably) moves, so the wires should be able to withstand frequent movement. Use stranded (rather than solid) wire.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastEditorUserId="26" LastEditDate="2016-12-13T19:36:27.187" LastActivityDate="2016-12-13T19:36:27.187" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3192" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3189" CreationDate="2016-12-13T17:13:50.643" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes. That said you can view it as an intro into 3d printing. Once you know you are really into it you can buy a higher end machine, or hunt craigslist / ebay / facebook groups for a used one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What the heated bed will allow you to do is print more than PLA, and certain formulations of no warp ABS. The Makerbot uses no heated bed, instead in addition to being PLA only it does what we call a raft. That said one of my 6 printers is a makerbot and it still gets warping if the print is on the edge of the plate. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also add a heated print bed later. If your electronics allow for it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said.. Just buy one with a heated bed? I know you can get one close to that price point. Heated beds cost 7 dollar. However as pointed out by Tom, there are other costs such as a more powerful heated bed. Still one should be able to get a printer in that price range or close to it with a heated bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To be more clear. You will not have a 90% fail rate if you use PLA. However your prints will often have some heat warping and you will HAVE to use a raft. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;from &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.reprap.org/wiki/Glossary&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.reprap.org/wiki/Glossary&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Raft&#xA;  A technique used to prevent warping. Parts are built on top of a 'raft' of disposable material instead of directly on the build surface. The raft is larger than the part and so has more adhesion. Rarely used with heated build surfaces. For the small area models, it is very useful to prevent warping via adding a raft for the model before slicing it. It can also help with with precision parts by removing the slight first few layer distortion caused by the heated bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2146" LastEditorUserId="2146" LastEditDate="2016-12-13T17:16:29.763" LastActivityDate="2016-12-13T17:16:29.763" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3193" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3178" CreationDate="2016-12-13T17:23:05.790" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Stratasys offers a 3D printing system specifically for producing injection molds. They claim their &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.stratasys.com/solutions/additive-manufacturing/injection-molding&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Polyjet/Digital ABS&lt;/a&gt; line of printers can produce prototype injection molds good for 10-100 shots of the same mold and that the material can be used with regular injection molding machines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, the molds still wear out quickly and are only suitable for prototyping and/or extremely small production runs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastActivityDate="2016-12-13T17:23:05.790" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3194" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3189" CreationDate="2016-12-13T19:08:42.007" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;At the risk of an opinionated answer...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would say that if money is tight, then get the correct printer in the first instance, en lieu of purchasing one that ends up giving you unsatisfactory prints, and that you then have to spend even more money on, in order to get prints of an acceptable quality. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A heatbed, while not essential, is, IMHO, certainly desirable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just a thought - Instead of purchasing a ready built printer on Amazon, have you considered building your own RepRap? If you look at a Bill Of Materials (BOM), and then purchase the parts individually from China, then not only will you end up with a good/better spec printer, for the same price, but you would also understand the mechanics a lot better. A good, and thorough, understanding the printer is essential for repairs, when (not &lt;em&gt;if&lt;/em&gt;) the printer goes wrong (and believe me, it &lt;em&gt;will&lt;/em&gt;). For a little over £200 I have managed to source all of the parts separately for a P3Steel v4 printer, with Kysan stepper motors, and an aluminium 200 mm x 300 mm heatbed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that I knew nothing about 3D printing, three months ago, so you do not need to be an expert, just do plenty of research beforehand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;FWIW, my aluminium MK3 heatbed was £19.99.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4762" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2016-12-13T19:18:40.833" LastActivityDate="2016-12-13T19:18:40.833" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3195" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2723" CreationDate="2016-12-13T21:39:51.863" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a Ton of issues with using this type of material. First off there is no way anything that comes out of your FDM printer will be sanitary enough to meet the requirements for medical applications. Your nozzle might even be contain Lead. Last you would need this printer to be cleaned to clean room standards. As well as stored and operated in one..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second I have not heard of a flexible material that meets FDA requirements. (which is not the same as does not) You have to worry about even the additives they add for color. Or straight up contamination of the material. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do want to mention that there are people who use SLA printers for dental items. I cannot say how SLA would meet food or medical grade requirements. My guess is a lack of regulation. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So a bad idea I would say...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2146" LastActivityDate="2016-12-13T21:39:51.863" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3196" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2993" CreationDate="2016-12-13T21:50:32.220" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Two things come to mind. First it is the first few layers. You could have the head Smashing into the print bed. Causing a massive build up of plastic the first few layers. And or you have over extrusion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Take a piece of paper. you want the distance from the head and the&#xA;bed to be that width. Just enough friction to feel a light drag. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;After that verify that your first layer extrusion multiplier is&#xA;under 1.5. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Make sure you are extruding the correct amount. Take a ruler.&#xA;Mark out 100mm. Have it extrude 100mm. Correct feed rates&#xA;accordingly. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Next check plastic diameter by taking the average over 10 samples&#xA;over a meter of plastic. Enter accordingly.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Then last you might have temp a bit high. Drop it a few degrees. Not a huge factor. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2146" LastActivityDate="2016-12-13T21:50:32.220" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3197" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3210" CreationDate="2016-12-14T07:37:37.493" Score="7" ViewCount="162" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are there commercially available molecular 3D printers that can create catalytic structures like Zeolites, if not are there any research efforts underway in such field? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5235" LastActivityDate="2016-12-15T20:19:46.897" Title="3D Molecular Printers" Tags="|print-material|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3198" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3206" CreationDate="2016-12-14T08:32:42.480" Score="12" ViewCount="2323" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just started doing some design. First project was a replacement handle for my angle grinder, so basically a hollow cylinder. I want to reduce the amount of material used in the print. I could sit here and punch holes through the handle with a smaller cylinder, or some other shape etc., but is there an easier way to do this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It must be a pretty common requirement, just like in the movies where the spies look at a photo and tell the tech to 'enhance ... enhance'. Ideally you could select a surface and overlay some sort of pattern to remove material.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5236" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2016-12-19T20:29:50.570" LastActivityDate="2016-12-28T03:26:38.657" Title="Reducing amount of material" Tags="|material|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3199" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3201" CreationDate="2016-12-14T09:37:34.053" Score="4" ViewCount="222" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ironing out all my worries before buying my first 3D printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm looking at getting the &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;da Vinci miniMaker&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; 3D printer as my first 3D printer, but it doesn't come with a heated bed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On my previous question about &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/3189/non-heated-beds-affect-on-3d-prints&quot;&gt;heating beds effect on a print&lt;/a&gt;, I was told that I need to use a raft to compensate for the absence of a heated bed. What I want to know is, does the software that comes with the printer allow the creation of rafts whilst/prior to printing? Or will it create rafts if need be?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1722" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T13:00:58.447" LastActivityDate="2016-12-19T20:30:19.317" Title="Does XYZPrinting software allow the creation of rafts when printing?" Tags="|3d-models|software|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3200" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3129" CreationDate="2016-12-14T12:04:33.900" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've used some cat 6 in one of my printers and just to be safe I used 4 wires for the extruder heat block, 2+, 2- &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the thermistors 1 is more than enough for each +/-. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also stripped the thick shielding off and used some 'curly' cable organizer in it's place, not the shielding on the wires but the cord. So i could fit 2 cables in slightly more than the same space as one.  You are probably doing this to keep it organized too but this is an option if you run out of space in your wire runs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="186" LastActivityDate="2016-12-14T12:04:33.900" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3201" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3199" CreationDate="2016-12-14T15:26:28.823" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ok. After watching some YouTube Videos, I would take it that the abovementioned software does include the option to create rafts when printing a model.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1722" LastActivityDate="2016-12-14T15:26:28.823" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3202" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-12-14T19:45:53.583" Score="12" ViewCount="78332" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've read different things about PLA and heat-bed. Some say it is not needed, others recommend 60-70°C, but not for the first layers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For larger objects I often have the problem that the object does not stick to the blue-painters-tape-covered aluminium print plate. Instead the print &quot;curls&quot; up on one or more corners. To reduce this effect, I'm using a brim between 5 and 10mm. Depending on the size of the object the brim works quite well. Will heating the bed also improve the print quality by reducing the amount of heat warping / curling?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5223" LastEditorUserId="6165" LastEditDate="2018-01-20T15:31:25.640" LastActivityDate="2019-07-03T04:27:56.377" Title="PLA and bed heating?" Tags="|pla|heated-bed|warping|" AnswerCount="11" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3203" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3202" CreationDate="2016-12-14T20:20:00.380" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It really depends on your formulation. 70&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C would be on the higher end. I think I do between 70&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C - 75&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C. Not any higher.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Add a glue from a glue stick to help with keeping it on the bed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Use a raft to reduce the issue as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A fan is the number one thing you can do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The last solution is to build a heat enclosure. They are not on every 3D printer because of patents blocking them. You can easily make your own.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Technically it is not 100&amp;nbsp;% needed, i.e. the MakerBot does not use it, but the guys at MakerBot have PLA down to a science. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also I thought Kapton is not for PLA usually... see these &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.matterhackers.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;MatterHackers&lt;/a&gt; articles:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.matterhackers.com/articles/how-to-succeed-when-printing-with-abs&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;How to succeed when printing with ABS&lt;/a&gt;;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.matterhackers.com/articles/how-to-succeed-when-printing-in-pla&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;How to succeed when printing with PLA&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.reprap.org/wiki/Glossary&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;RepRap Wiki - Glossary&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Raft&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A technique used to prevent warping. Parts are built on top&#xA;  of a 'raft' of disposable material instead of directly on the build&#xA;  surface. The raft is larger than the part and so has more adhesion.&#xA;  Rarely used with heated build surfaces. For the small area models, it&#xA;  is very useful to prevent warping via adding a raft for the model&#xA;  before slicing it. It can also help with with precision parts by&#xA;  removing the slight first few layer distortion caused by the heated&#xA;  bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2146" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-07-03T04:15:03.077" LastActivityDate="2019-07-03T04:15:03.077" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="3204" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3202" CreationDate="2016-12-14T20:45:20.100" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Heating the bed helps me, even with PLA.  I print with a 60&amp;nbsp;°C bed.  The bed is 3/8&quot; 6061 alloy aluminum, sanded with 600 grit sandpaper, coated with Elmer's purple glue stick, and dried.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The brim will help.  You might make the brim thicker than one layer (like 2-3 layers).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you look at the bottom of your print, are there large gaps where the PLA doesn't touch the bed?  If so, you could zero the head closer to the bed, or increase the flow for the first layer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I haven't set up a cooling fan, although many praise the results.  It is an experiment for a future day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2082" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-07-03T04:10:40.687" LastActivityDate="2019-07-03T04:10:40.687" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="3205" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3185" CreationDate="2016-12-14T21:12:54.560" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Extruder 'clicking' is an audible indicator that the teeth on the hobbed gear are slipping... determining if this is a symptom or a problem is where things get tricky. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not so sure about adjusting feed rate - as this will impact the entire print and may introduce other problems. Measuring the dimensions of a sample print with a set of calipers is a good way of identifying over/under extrusion. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;General maintenance items perhaps?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Thermistor: Nozzle temperature measurement is dependent upon the precision of the thermistor and how well it is attached... 5% drift at 220 degrees may be as low as 210 degrees or as high as 230 degrees. Use a thermocouple on a multimeter, non-contact probe, etc. to verify your nozzle temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Temperature: Nozzle temperature 'sag' of +/- 5 degrees is normal. Monitor nozzle temperature during a print to see if it stays within this range (see: Speed below). &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Speed: Printing fast is awesome... when you have a hotend that can keep-up with the demands of melting incoming filament. Too fast, and the filament may not be properly melted; increasing the pressure needed to force it through the nozzle. Support material and infill typically print faster than the rest of the model - you mentioned hearing clicks &quot;...mostly during filling areas.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Alignment: Make sure the hobbed gear, idler bearing, and filament are properly aligned. Filament that wanders around in the feed path is much more likely to slip and/or buckle.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Teeth: Make sure that the teeth of the hobbed gear are clean and clear of debris. 'Gunk' in hobbed gear teeth reduce grip on the filament.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Tension: Increase the tension between the hobbed gear and idler bearing if possible; worn hobbed gears may need a little extra help holding-on to the filament. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Stepper: Heat generated by the stepper motor can be passed down to the hobbed gear... softening the filament and causing it to slip. Stepper quality, capacity, and duty cycle can greatly effect how much heat is generated; 200+ degrees is entirely possible. Passive cooling (heatsink) is a good idea, active cooling (fan) is better. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A loose heat-break, nicks in the filament path, variations in filament width, etc. are all possibilities as well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, Simplify3D created a great reference for solutions to common 3D printing problems (if you haven't seen it already). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5244" LastActivityDate="2016-12-14T21:12:54.560" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3206" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3198" CreationDate="2016-12-14T23:36:54.980" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;Updated to match the improved question format.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a few ways to reduce material usage. First is what you have touched on. Which is to reduce the design by punching out holes, and removing all material that does not add anything to the structure. Even better is what you touched on, reducing it to the point where your print is more like a suspension bridge, where it is a the bare minimum scaffolding in a geometric pattern. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most tools you will find for reduction are like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.shapeways.com/tutorials/polygon_reduction_with_meshlab&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;this tutorial from Shapeways on Meshlab&lt;/a&gt; where you reduce the surface detail. It might be worth exploring these a bet, however probably not what you really need.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next the more hard core cad tools such as solid works will allow you to preform &lt;a href=&quot;http://feaforall.com/reduce-cad-design-cost-using-simulation/#&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Parametric optimizations and Topology Optimization.&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;Topology Optimization. seems to be your real winner&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8Vmod.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8Vmod.png&quot; alt=&quot;Topology Optimization example&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now from the 3d printer standpoint we just simply tweak our slicer settings. There are entries for Infill. I usually print with 7% infill. AKA my print is 93% hollow inside. I then set a few solid shell layers. Think of solid shells as the skin. Usually that is enough to reduce my plastic usage. The only reason I don't make a part 100% hollow and a few solid skin / shell layers is that I need something to print on top of or if I need the part to be strong . Even low percent infill can be very strong if the correct geometric pattern is used (I.E. triangles).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Generally the reduced infill will be enough, unless you are making thousands of this item, though in that case you are probably not going to 3d print it anyways.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SHLTZ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SHLTZ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://3dprintingforbeginners.com/infill-strength/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;3dprintingforbeginners&lt;/a&gt; has a nice article on the relationship between infill, number of shells and part strength. A bit more information about the terminology (infill/shells/etc...) can be found on &lt;a href=&quot;http://3dprinting-blog.com/tag/what-is-infill/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;3D printing blog&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2146" LastEditorUserId="2146" LastEditDate="2016-12-28T03:26:38.657" LastActivityDate="2016-12-28T03:26:38.657" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3207" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3209" CreationDate="2016-12-15T14:42:18.353" Score="6" ViewCount="371" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm in the process of building the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1001065&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;D-Bot core XY&lt;/a&gt; printer, and I was hoping to know if the Z-axis 'zero' is near the hot end or near the bottom of the printer furthest away from the hotend? In this printer the Z-platform moves up and down and the nozzle stays at the same height.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5113" LastEditorUserId="1400" LastEditDate="2016-12-15T17:28:16.847" LastActivityDate="2016-12-15T17:28:16.847" Title="Is z-axis zero near the hotend?" Tags="|z-axis|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3208" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3207" CreationDate="2016-12-15T15:40:02.603" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, Z-Zero is typically at the &quot;top&quot; of the printer, closest to the nozzle(s). X and Y zeros are also typically in the lower-left corner of the buildplate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, the XY zeros are re-interpreted in slicing software to produce cleaner G-Code as it's sometimes difficult to read G-Code in negative coordinates. For this functionality, slicing engines utilize the machine build space length and width.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So if you encounter a situation where your machine &quot;over travels&quot; in either -X or -Y direction during startup, verify that the length and width of your build space is correct in your slicing engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="98" LastActivityDate="2016-12-15T15:40:02.603" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3209" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3207" CreationDate="2016-12-15T15:44:48.703" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Generally, Z-axis zero is when the hot end and the build plate are close to each other.  Some printers keep the hot end up at the top, and bring the build plate up to reach it.  Other printers keep the build plate at the bottom, and lower the hot end down to reach it.  As such, &quot;Z axis zero&quot; doesn't specify top or bottom of the physical printer, it just specifies that the hot end is right up against the build plate, ready to print its first layer.  In the printer you describe, where the hot end remains at the top, that's where Z zero is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In terms of the model being printed, Z axis zero is always the bottom of the model, the first layer to be deposited on the build plate.  The numbers increase from there, either lifting the hot end up, or pushing the build plate down, depending on the design of the printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1400" LastActivityDate="2016-12-15T15:44:48.703" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3210" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3197" CreationDate="2016-12-15T20:19:46.897" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.popularmechanics.com/science/health/a14528/the-chemistry-3d-printer-can-craft-rare-medicinal-molecules-from-scratch/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;The link I mentioned&lt;/a&gt; from popular mechanics is the state of molecular 3d printing. So yes the printer does exist and can do some really impressive things. However as the article states it is limited to what it can create right now. The technology sounds really interesting. However it might be a bit out of our knowledge as it doesn't seem to be widely available passed the scientific academia world.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.sculpteo.com/blog/2015/10/28/3d-printing-for-the-chemical-industry/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;This link here&lt;/a&gt; talks about reactionware for Chemical Syntheses as well as a TED talk about it&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2146" LastActivityDate="2016-12-15T20:19:46.897" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3211" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3173" CreationDate="2016-12-16T12:38:08.440" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cura prior to version 2.5 does not take G-code as an input. I'm not sure what you mean by &quot;print only using Cura.&quot; Don't you have a SD slot on your control board? For that matter, why can't you drive the USB port from Slic3r?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remember: G-code is the equivalent of &quot;compiled code,&quot; the raw commands which drive the printer, while STL or OBJ, etc., are the &quot;source code,&quot; which you edit to get the shape you want.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've looked at a few apps which will render a 3D image on your computer from G-code, but I don't know off-hand of one which will &quot;decompile&quot; into a STL or mesh file.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2191" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2019-07-06T06:01:02.587" LastActivityDate="2019-07-06T06:01:02.587" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="3212" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="513" CreationDate="2016-12-16T17:12:03.037" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have looked into this a lot. Especially when I had a phd chem engineer girlfriend who kept talking about how the fumes might give me cancer.. Frankly the system you need just costs too much. Lab equipment can run 20k easily. Not to mention the noise. What you really need is a backyard shed, but as one who lives where it snows I understand that is rarely a realistic option.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Buzzbox looks cool and there are other brands. However their prices are usually as much as a flashforge, and usually cannot even hold a flashforge. &#xA;More importantly there are parts where you can DIY your own. &#xA;300 for a plexiglass case that can only hold a mini printer is not good enough by far.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Take a product &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.3dprintclean.com/scrubber-filtration.htm&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;like this air scrubber&lt;/a&gt; Or build your own this like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.instructables.com/id/Build-a-laser-cutter-fume-extractor/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;this hard core one&lt;/a&gt; designed for a laser cutter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The local hackerspace should have a large laser cutter. Plastic should run 100 - 200 depending on how thick of a sheet you want. I personally buy scrap pieces. Designing a square box, adding hinges, then coating the edges with silicon sealant. Evacuate the chamber when done printing. Also should double as a heat chamber.. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For me, I can easily run 5 printers at a time. So I might take a metal Cabinet, seal it up. test it with a fog machine. Cut out a hole for the evacuation hose, and wire up camera. But I am far from having that much free time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also if I manage to make it air tight it should reduce fire hazard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Taking that laser cutting fume extractor. There is nothing that will perform better than that. I hear you might get some smell, but that was in regards to laser cutters. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2146" LastEditorUserId="2146" LastEditDate="2016-12-16T17:17:55.840" LastActivityDate="2016-12-16T17:17:55.840" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3213" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3218" CreationDate="2016-12-16T18:28:38.123" Score="9" ViewCount="2745" Body="&lt;p&gt;When printing the first layer, the infill overlaps on just one side of my print. Thereupon there's a rough, and a lot higher, surface on the first few millimeters after the wall. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Printer: Arduino Materia 101&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Filament: Rec Pla&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Temp: 210 degrees&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have tried to troubleshoot it, but I just found information about a problem when the infill isn't close enough to the wall everywhere.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, for me, the problem is the contrary and just on one side. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SFYAqm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SFYAqm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Photo of overlap&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5263" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2016-12-19T20:29:44.340" LastActivityDate="2016-12-19T20:29:44.340" Title="First layer overlap on one side" Tags="|pla|layer-height|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3214" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3213" CreationDate="2016-12-16T19:39:54.547" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes. That happens. I personally prefer this to the alternative which is it does not go far enough and curls back. That said depending on your slicer you will have a line overlap tolerance. But what's really happening is you are smooching your first layer. Aka your hot end is too high in relation to your first layer multiplier. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Failing that and if you see it later in the print. Again I don't think you really can fix it but you should recalibrate your printers firmware, steps per mm and your slicers filament size. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looking at it I again it is a bit much. Maybe the plate is not flat. Does it happen on any other sides? After that we have the unlikely case your hotend is too hot. Which the slow down of the printer could cause too much material to ooze out. But I'm going to say plate level as number one suspicion. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3D printing is a lot like trying to spin 3-4 plates at once.. if you still have issues I can expand more on calibration steps you need to do.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2146" LastActivityDate="2016-12-16T19:39:54.547" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3215" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3216" CreationDate="2016-12-17T10:39:48.277" Score="11" ViewCount="3286" Body="&lt;p&gt;When trying to print parts that should contain certain sized holes, e.g. for screws, how to achieve that they are sized correctly?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it possible to calibrate the printer perfectly, so it prints holes correctly sizes in all common sizes (e.g. starting at 2mm diameter)? Or is it better to design the holes larger or print prototypes and increase the sizes according to the real prints?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5223" LastActivityDate="2016-12-19T11:21:25.117" Title="Designing/Printing objects with sized holes" Tags="|calibration|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3216" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3215" CreationDate="2016-12-17T11:35:07.950" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://hydraraptor.blogspot.nl/2014/06/why-slicers-get-dimensions-wrong.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;The reason holes come out undersized is generally the slicer&lt;/a&gt;, so calibrating the printer itself cannot solve the issue (without making other things worse). The output of the printer is exactly what it should be, given the G-code provided to it. It's just that the G-code does not represent the hole diameter correctly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It would be best to simply account for the deviation in your design, or simply drill out undersized holes to the correct diameter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastActivityDate="2016-12-17T11:35:07.950" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3217" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3215" CreationDate="2016-12-17T17:16:01.303" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Even in traditional manufacturing (milling, lathe, router, etc.) dimensions are often times offset to accommodate unforeseen variables such as cutting tool wear, material hardness, and especially operator/engineering error.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As &lt;em&gt;Tom van der Zanden&lt;/em&gt; stated, it is common for holes to come out undersized. This is not a conscious action, but a result of uncompensated variables in the material. When you phase the material by heating it to near or at melting point, the material technically begins changing. With that can come varying changes in melting and &lt;em&gt;cooling rates&lt;/em&gt;. Your slicing engine will not understand what should be compensated and what shouldn't.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, I would suggest:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Aiming for the lower tolerance for your hole size. If you don't have a tolerance, just make one up and aim for about 0.5mm-1mm below your target hole size.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;Ream&lt;/em&gt; the hole using a reamer or drill, utilizing the 3D printed hole as a pilot.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Be wary of 3D hole positions. If a hole is oriented in compound angles, meaning that it is not directly in-line with an axis plane such as XY, XZ, or YZ, then you may also have misshapen holes. &lt;strong&gt;These may result in positional errors if you decide to ream them out.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="98" LastActivityDate="2016-12-17T17:16:01.303" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3218" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3213" CreationDate="2016-12-17T17:29:20.103" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This may be a result of an unlevel build plate (OP did not specify if calibration was done at time of writing).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the area that is overlapping is higher (closer to the nozzle), the filament will be pushed down and around the nozzle as it extrudes in that area. This will result in excess filament overlapping unto other strands on the layer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please excuse my lack of artistic skills in paint, but the image below should illustrate what can happen when your build plate is unlevel:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IHElo.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IHElo.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically what it's trying to illustrate is that if the nozzle is closer than the expected layer height, the machine will continue to flow as if the nozzle is &lt;em&gt;layer height&lt;/em&gt; away. This typically results in a larger &lt;em&gt;layer width&lt;/em&gt; because &lt;strong&gt;the nozzle is essentially pushing material out of the way&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will notice that as you go further to the right in the drawing, that your layer may begin to &quot;thin out&quot; because if the nozzle more than a layer height away, the filament &quot;stretches&quot; until it settles on the build plate, resulting in a thinner layer width.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ideally, your nozzle will be parallel to your build plate at all points along the build space and the &quot;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Standoff Distance&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&quot; will be equal to your layer height. So, you should see the top of your bead of filament at the same height as the bottom of your nozzle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="98" LastEditorUserId="98" LastEditDate="2016-12-17T17:37:19.883" LastActivityDate="2016-12-17T17:37:19.883" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3219" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3228" CreationDate="2016-12-17T20:00:27.670" Score="6" ViewCount="1049" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is it possible to use the onboard camera on the 5th+ generation MakerBot printers to stream or save to a file?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd like to try and use the stream for customers on my 3DHubs account and they recommend setting up a YouTube stream. However, even if I'm able to stream to VLC Player or something, I'd like to get the video/images somehow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="98" LastEditorUserId="98" LastEditDate="2016-12-20T15:08:31.650" LastActivityDate="2017-02-18T16:09:11.870" Title="MakerBot Camera Stream" Tags="|makerbot|services|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3220" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-12-17T20:20:31.317" Score="5" ViewCount="428" Body="&lt;p&gt;Z axis length for my printer equals 120 mm. When I manually pass this length, from display controller menu, it's about few millimeters. Then I set the resolution (ZAXIS_STEPS_PER_MM) at &lt;a href=&quot;http://prusaprinters.org/calculator/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;1600 steps per mm&lt;/a&gt;. And nothing changed, step still very small.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I use Repetier-Firmware, Arduino Mega+RAMPS 1.4, standard Nema 17 steppers and Prusa i3 like cartesian printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is hardware or software problem? I checked the steppers, they're fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5276" LastActivityDate="2017-06-23T14:12:31.287" Title="Small Z axis step: Repetier-Firmware" Tags="|z-axis|stepper-driver|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3221" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3215" CreationDate="2016-12-18T14:45:53.307" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Make sure you know what purpose the holes are to serve.  If they are &lt;em&gt;clearance&lt;/em&gt; holes , i.e. designed so that the screw or bolt slides thru easily, then there's nothing wrong with a slight oversize.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;If you want a &lt;em&gt;tappable&lt;/em&gt; hole, i.e. either drive threads for a machine screw or self-tap with wood/drywall screws, then you want to go undersized.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want the hole to be a close-fit with a non-threaded rod, as is done for maintaining alignment for moving parts, then almost certainly start undersized and clear the hole just enough to fit the desired rod.    &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2191" LastActivityDate="2016-12-18T14:45:53.307" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3222" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-12-18T15:40:13.923" Score="5" ViewCount="697" Body="&lt;p&gt;New to 3D printing so sorry if this is a simple/basic question.  I've done a ton of Googling but can't seem to find the answer...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I download a .STL file and open it in Print Studio, it opens as a HUGE object - much larger than you would ever want it.  How to I get the file to open at scale to how the designer wanted it.  For instance the following file from Thingaverse has specific size but I'm unsure of how to print it at that exact size.  I'm assuming that the info is able to be stored somewhere in the .STL file.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thingiverse.com/make:181631&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.thingiverse.com/make:181631&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5282" LastActivityDate="2016-12-24T20:41:07.160" Title="Opening .STL to scale in Print Studio (Dremel)" Tags="|3d-design|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3223" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3198" CreationDate="2016-12-19T07:15:14.750" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;&quot;&lt;em&gt;Just like the movies&lt;/em&gt;&quot;-type tech typically means &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;$$$&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For those who do not own (legally or otherwise) expensive CAD software, it may be difficult to find an out-of-the-box solution. That's not to say that it can't be done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A close, readily available, solution would be to use a series of common CAD tools such as Shell and Scale. Between these functions, you should be able to scale a copy of your main solid object, then shell the new inner object. When sliced, the object should have a smaller &quot;inner wall&quot; and a hollow center. I would recommend this over 0% infill as a shell will not provide enough strength for the intended use you mentioned.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a &lt;a href=&quot;http://my3dmatter.com/influence-infill-layer-height-pattern/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;great article on My3DMatter.com&lt;/a&gt; that provides details and a very interesting set of charts, outlining cost, speed, strength, and quality distributions at varying layer heights and infills.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Please Note:&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; These results are going to &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;differ&lt;/em&gt; between different material types, vendors, part shape, and infill pattern&lt;/strong&gt;. These results were found printing from a MakerBot Replicator and presumably MakerBot-branded filament.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zpBXa.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zpBXa.png&quot; alt=&quot;Infill vs. Layer Height Comparisons&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="98" LastActivityDate="2016-12-19T07:15:14.750" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3224" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3215" CreationDate="2016-12-19T11:21:25.117" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've had this issue too and I've pretty much solved it by making all holes polygons instead of round.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The general rule of thumb I follow is to use a polygon with 4 times as many sides as the hole diameter in millimeters, e.g. for a hole with a 3 mm diameter I'd use a 12 sided polygon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then it's a matter of choosing between a circumscribed (circle fits inside polygon) or an inscribed (polygon fits inside circle) polygon depending on what you're using the hole for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5294" LastActivityDate="2016-12-19T11:21:25.117" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3225" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3230" CreationDate="2016-12-19T22:10:02.343" Score="1" ViewCount="4170" Body="&lt;p&gt;To learn about printing, and to print the parts for a printer of my own design later on, I've ordered an Anet A8.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I just saw this video, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i5cEpL19ses&amp;amp;feature=youtu.be&amp;amp;t=392&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Anet A8 3D printer Review. all you need to know&lt;/a&gt;. This guy recommends using an external MOSFET. I was wondering if using a relay instead would also make it safe?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4903" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-07-08T11:57:13.577" LastActivityDate="2018-07-08T11:57:13.577" Title="Anet board - MOSFET replacement?" Tags="|electronics|anet-a8|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2016-12-23T21:27:24.117" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="3226" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-12-20T00:20:55.597" Score="2" ViewCount="81" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a set of 42 images made as a rotation around the object and it is failing to generate a model in Visual SFM. From what I can gather, the problem is that just doing a rotation is insufficient. There must photographs taken from above as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any way to avoid the need for high angle shots, and just use rotational shots and still get a 3D model from Visual SFM?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5302" LastActivityDate="2016-12-20T06:09:43.770" Title="Photogrammetry using pure rotation?" Tags="|3d-models|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3227" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-12-20T01:59:00.677" Score="1" ViewCount="404" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was wondering if the &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;da Vinci Jr. 1.0&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; can print in 100 &amp;mu;m layer height.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If so, how could I do this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5305" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2016-12-21T01:32:23.293" LastActivityDate="2016-12-21T21:02:18.823" Title="Can the da Vinci Jr 1.0 print in 100 microns, if so how?" Tags="|filament|3d-models|pla|extruder|nozzle|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3228" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3219" CreationDate="2016-12-20T04:14:32.753" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I own the gen 5, not the gen 5+. As far as I can tell, the camera has not gotten much of an upgrade and the software is also just as limited. That said to be sure I verified on several sites such as this &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/amp/s/amp.reddit.com/r/makerbot/comments/2pop5m/will_the_makerbot_5th_gen_ever_be_able_to_stream/?client=safari&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;reddit&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are some that claim that the software is open source. I do not think this is true given the parent company. Following even if it was you do not want to use their camera. It is shocking how cheap they went on this ultra premium printer. Which despite printing very well has not been received well. The main issue is that the camera is 320 by 240! That alone is enough to derail your quest I am afraid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Take a look at this &lt;a href=&quot;http://metatek.blogspot.com/2014/02/raspberry-pi-makerbot-cam.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;raspberry pi project&lt;/a&gt; on building your own camera set up. Though really any wireless camera setup should do. Using a Pi has the stand alone advantage. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2146" LastEditorUserId="98" LastEditDate="2016-12-20T15:10:00.683" LastActivityDate="2016-12-20T15:10:00.683" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3229" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3226" CreationDate="2016-12-20T06:09:43.770" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is not a problem specific to Visual SFM, but a general technical problem. The software cannot accurately determine the depth of the pieces which approach perpendicularity with the camera lens. The software uses those varying measurements and estimated angles to calculate the geometry. Check out the &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Law_of_cosines&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;law of cosines&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5306" LastActivityDate="2016-12-20T06:09:43.770" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3230" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3225" CreationDate="2016-12-20T11:00:48.800" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are two areas of this design which seem to pose a risk of connectors overheating, the hot end and the heated bed. The heated bed runs at about 6 amps, 12 Volts. The hot end runs at a lower current, but can itself overheat if the thermistor stops providing feedback.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem in this design with the heated bed is mainly the connectors - they work OK when they are good, but can easily come a bit loose. This has two side effects. The bed heats less well, and the connector itself heats instead. Replacing the 2mm plug connector, and 2mm molex with direct soldered connections will help (the on-board mosfet seems OK with the current, unless you increase the power rail voltage).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A mosfet is a good solution for high current switching, the modules available have good screw terminals which should be OK for maybe 25A (well in excess of what you need). Mosfets are efficient when switched fully on, so there won't be much heating.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You would also use a relay (rated for at least 10A), but this will be noisy since the heater is switched repeatedly to maintain the target temperature. A relay also takes more power itself and will ear out if repeatedly switched under load.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bottom line, if you have a good relay already, it is OK as a temporary (safe) solution. Longer-term a mosfet is better. Pay attention to the connectors at power supply, board (in and out) and heated bed. Using an additional mosfet for the hotend is maybe overkill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4927" LastEditorUserId="4927" LastEditDate="2016-12-20T23:16:10.160" LastActivityDate="2016-12-20T23:16:10.160" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3231" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3202" CreationDate="2016-12-20T11:43:50.047" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;For printing PLA you can manage to succeed without a heated bed. You can use blue painting tape on any platform. It will help a lot. But sometimes the tape itself curls up and you end up with a bad print. Heated bed helps here for better adhesion of the blue tape to the bed. You can also use hair sprey to ensure that the blue tape sticks to the bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hair sprey is pretty effective on ABS. If you use a heated bed + glass + hair sprey ( Akat Gardi is the best brand) you will never have any problem with your prints.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5313" LastActivityDate="2016-12-20T11:43:50.047" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3232" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3202" CreationDate="2016-12-20T13:45:37.363" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I actually find it's not needed for PLA. I generally have it heated to 40&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C and use blue painters tape along with some hairspray (I prefer Tresemme as it smells gorgeous).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've experimented with a glass bed, and Buildtak but I find blue painters tape is the key. I overlap the blue tape ends to the bed so it sticks, then spray the hairspray onto the tape. Also bed leveling is super important as are your print settings. What you want for the first layer is to have it essentially &quot;pushing&quot; into the bed. That way it gets good contact and wont curl up during the print, though it can be a challenge to get off later.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;TL;DR&lt;/strong&gt; for PLA you dont need a heated bed, its more about the surface and 1st layer height.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5316" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-07-03T04:13:18.803" LastActivityDate="2019-07-03T04:13:18.803" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="3233" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-12-20T14:20:13.200" Score="11" ViewCount="10218" Body="&lt;p&gt;I started to write an application that calculates the estimated total print time from the G-code file for an already sliced model.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The program works and it's pretty accurate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It works as follows: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It scans the entire G-code file to identify all of the movements&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It calculates the time for each move by dividing segment distance by the speed in mm/s.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's assume this is the G-code:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;G28 ; home all axes&#xA;G1 Z0.200 F5400.000&#xA;G1 X158.878 Y27.769 E6.65594 F900.000&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the calculation it does:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;totalTime = 0&#xA;&#xA;# G28 ; home all axes&#xA;currentX = 0 mm&#xA;currentY = 0 mm&#xA;currentZ = 0 mm&#xA;&#xA;# G1 Z0.200 F5400.000&#xA;newZ = 0.2 mm&#xA;mmPerSecond = 5400 / 60 = 90 mm/s&#xA;deltaZ = newZ - currentZ = 0.2 - 0 = 0.2 mm&#xA;segmentLength = deltaZ  = 0.2 mm&#xA;moveTime = segmentLength / mmPerSecond = 0.2 / 90 = 0.002 s&#xA;totalTime = totalTime + moveTime = 0 + 0.002 = 0.002 s&#xA;&#xA;# G1 X158.878 Y27.769 E6.65594 F900.000&#xA;newX = 158.878 mm&#xA;newY = 27.769 mm&#xA;mmPerSecond = 900 / 60 = 15 mm/s&#xA;deltaX = newX - currentX = 158.878 - 0 = 158.878 mm&#xA;deltaY = newY - currentY = 27.769 - 0  = 27.769 mm&#xA;segmentLength = square_root(deltaX² + deltaY²) = 161.287 mm&#xA;moveTime = deltaZ / mmPerSecond = 161.287 / 15 = 10.755 s&#xA;totalTime = totalTime + moveTime = 0.002 + 10.755 = 10.757 s&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this example, the print will take approximately 10.7 seconds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More generally, the formula used is, for each movement:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;moveTime = segmentLength / mmPerSecond&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By summing up all the move times, we have the total estimated print time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've seen that some forums state that the 3D print time also depends on some settings on the 3D printer, especially Acceleration X, Acceleration Y, Acceleration Z, Jerk, and Z-Jerk.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd like to make it possible to use those values to more accurately calculate print time; however, I don't understand how those values affect the move time:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How should Acceleration and Jerk be considered; and, how do they speed up or slow down the print time?  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How should I edit my formula in order to include Acceleration and Jerk in the print time calculation?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5317" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2017-05-30T02:58:35.360" LastActivityDate="2019-09-24T20:23:55.003" Title="Calculating the estimated print time of an already sliced file" Tags="|g-code|estimation|acceleration|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3234" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-12-20T15:28:07.903" Score="11" ViewCount="15487" Body="&lt;p&gt;I run a high school 3D printer lab and we have several 5th generation MakerBot printers. On one of them I have considerable trouble with &quot;thin&quot; prints and filament slip warnings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So far I've tried changing extruders and using different filament rolls with no luck. But, if I move the job and the extruder to a different printer it works.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd appreciate suggestions for how to sort this out. I would have expected the slipping problems to follow the extruder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="254" LastActivityDate="2020-04-17T16:04:58.207" Title="Troubleshooting filament slip on MakerBot 5" Tags="|filament|makerbot|troubleshooting|" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3235" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3089" CreationDate="2016-12-20T18:55:40.527" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I wouldn't describe that as an &quot;OK&quot; first layer. The nozzle is either too far from the bed, or you're underextruding. Underextrusion also looks like the cause of your second layer problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastActivityDate="2016-12-20T18:55:40.527" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3237" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3234" CreationDate="2016-12-20T20:59:27.623" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Oh interesting. By slips, I take it you mean that the raw filament slips, not the print slips.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This will happen for a few reasons. First the tooth gear that grabs the plastic is either:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Worn out&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Out of place&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Not the correct distance from the guide wheel. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is all part of the mechanism that the Smart Extruder attaches TO. Not the Smart Extruder itself. You might be able to fix this yourself, worst case you will need a replacement assembly from MakerBot. &lt;em&gt;I would look into online auction sites for the part&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another option is to try thicker filament. Which you might be able to custom order. So instead of 1.5, maybe get 1.8. I am not sure where you can buy off sizes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From there this machine might just be getting jammed. It happens to some machines. This again points to the base of the X axis assembly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Last which I would say is not likely as you have tried multiple extruders, you might have the nozzle becoming clogged. I often pop open my extruders &lt;em&gt;voids warranty&lt;/em&gt; and clean them out. Also micro hand drills are a good option here. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2146" LastEditorUserId="254" LastEditDate="2016-12-20T21:02:26.363" LastActivityDate="2016-12-20T21:02:26.363" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3238" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3240" CreationDate="2016-12-20T21:34:28.330" Score="5" ViewCount="2557" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am planning on buying a cheap 3D printer to get into 3D printing, but the printer I'm planning to buy only takes 1.75 mm filament, I was wondering if it might be possible to change the hotend of that printer or something to take in 3.0 mm filament, the reason I want to use 3.0 mm filament is because it is cheaper than 1.75 mm filament.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5324" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-08-09T21:35:22.467" LastActivityDate="2020-08-10T16:38:47.960" Title="Change 1.75 mm 3D printer to 3.0 mm printer" Tags="|filament|hotend|nozzle|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="3239" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3234" CreationDate="2016-12-20T21:41:20.230" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Okay, the original Smart Extruder has &lt;strong&gt;many&lt;/strong&gt; issues. I've clocked about 60 hours on a new Replicator+ w/ Smart Extruder+ and haven't encountered any of the issues I heard about with the original extruder. So, I might begin by re-recommending what MakerBot Industries has &lt;em&gt;recommended&lt;/em&gt; to their customers which is &lt;em&gt;upgrade your Smart Extruder to the new Smart Extruder+&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;However&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt;, the extruder may not be completely at fault. A picture says a thousand words, so if you have one, please add one. Based on your description of the part's layers &amp;quot;thinning out&amp;quot;, double check your &lt;a href=&quot;https://support.makerbot.com/learn/makerbot-desktop-software/print-settings/custom-settings_11912&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;extrusion settings in MakerBot Desktop&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another potential issue is too much tension on the filament as it is being fed into the extruder. Here are &lt;strong&gt;some things that can lead to too much tension&lt;/strong&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Filament wound around spool/spool holder&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Filament kinked&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Too much friction between the spool and spool holder&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Too much friction between the filament and the filament guide (the plastic tube)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, and my reason for bringing up the Smart Extruder, is that your extruder may be clogged or &amp;quot;gumming up&amp;quot;. In the past, if there was too much tension on the filament and the drive gear was not adjusted correctly, the drive gear would grind the filament. This would lead to small deposits of filament gumming up the drive gear, eventually leading to the filament slipping. Once the filament began slipping, it would slowly no longer extrude and heat up further up the extruder assembly. This inevitably leads to the extruder becoming clogged. In short:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;{Too much filament tension} + {Too tight drive gear} = Gumming&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;{Too much gumming} + Time = Slipping/&amp;quot;Thinning&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;{Too much slipping} + time + heat = Clogging&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="98" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:29:41.667" LastActivityDate="2016-12-20T21:41:20.230" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3240" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3238" CreationDate="2016-12-20T21:45:53.767" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;First it really depends on your printer / extruder. That said generally 1.75 mm is cheaper and much more common.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If one were to change the hotend, likely you will need to replace most or all of the hot end. In the case of my personal hot ends, when I did this conversion I had to replace both the tube and the PETF lined mouth. I did not have to replace the tip, core, or the thermsister.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My advice is to pick a different printer. You see 3 mm on older extruders like J Head direct gear from around 2012-2013 and Bowden style (like the Ultimaker) use 3 mm (actually 2.85 mm).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Possible yes, advised, no.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2146" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-08-09T21:42:00.963" LastActivityDate="2020-08-09T21:42:00.963" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="3241" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3233" CreationDate="2016-12-20T22:48:44.373" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have tried looking into the printer firmware to see how the &lt;em&gt;Acceleration&lt;/em&gt; setting affects the machine movement. From what I could tell, &lt;em&gt;Acceleration&lt;/em&gt; seemed to be implemented differently depending on what firmware I looked at and was also affected by what the settings used on the printer were.  I didn't look any further because writing different rules for every different firmware seemed like too much trouble. Maybe someone that knows more about this would know if most firmware uses the same calculations. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suspect that the acceleration setting will not make a lot of difference to the time that the print takes.  They haven't seemed to make a difference on the small prints that I have done printing with slow speeds. If you were printing larger prints at faster speeds that had long paths where the nozzle had time to accelerate and decelerate then I suspect you would notice a bigger difference with the time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have found that the biggest error between the predicted time and the actual time has been the time the machine spends processing the instructions. When printing a model that has a lot of short movements that need to be sent to the printer and they need to be processed and calculated by the printer, I have noticed the printer will pause for a fraction of a second. It is not long enough to see a difference in the printers movements, but it is noticeable enough to hear. I suspect that on cheaper printers this would cause a bigger error than the acceleration. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If someone can find out how the acceleration settings are calculated by the printer and what G-code command can be used to get the acceleration settings out of the printer, I would be really interested in knowing more about this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1476" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2017-06-25T05:48:32.993" LastActivityDate="2017-06-25T05:48:32.993" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3242" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3089" CreationDate="2016-12-21T04:27:27.653" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your first layer is horribly misscalibrated as well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You really should do all calibrations over. Including your firmware when your result is this bad. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Following. Let's just assume your firmware is set right. And that your flow is right as well. The second layer speaks loudly of overcooked dribbling plastic. You might have a jam. Maybe the factory left some metal shavings in the hot end. I've had it happen. Try taking apart the extruded. Make sure there are no obstructions. Clean the tip with a micro hand drill bit. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After that we will need more info. Post your settings. Your might have underflow (you set filiment size higher than it is) and have temperature so hot your are literally boiling the plastic and it is all dripping sparatically instead of controlled. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having temp too high can increase carbonization build ups and creats Jams. Did you ever have a good print ? My money is on a partial obstruction. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2146" LastActivityDate="2016-12-21T04:27:27.653" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3243" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-12-21T09:57:09.773" Score="13" ViewCount="7359" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would really like to be able to print moving parts that fit well enough to move without excessive friction, but also aren't excessively loose.  Using an Ultimaker 2, what should be my expectations be, and how would I go about produce well fitting parts?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using a tool like Openscad to generate parametric parts is really useful because it facilitates the creation of geometrically precise parts such as cogs and drive shafts, which also have precise dimensions.  The problem arises when the parts are printed and joined together.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I recently printed some cogs that were supposed to be able to rotate freely around a shaft, which was also printed.  I made the shaft about 0.1 mm smaller than the center hole of the cog expecting it to be able to rotate freely, however I found that I had to bore out the center hole slightly and sand down the shaft.  I then found that the boring was imprecise and the center of rotation was off center.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5308" LastActivityDate="2016-12-22T01:30:54.107" Title="Producing closely fitting parts" Tags="|quality|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3244" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3246" CreationDate="2016-12-21T12:56:42.090" Score="3" ViewCount="1177" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking at getting this printer, the da Vinci 1.0w 3D Printer, very soon as my first printer. Since this is an enclosed printer, from what I can tell from the pictures, and given that it is a PLA Printer (I'm assuming that is the filament it prints with), is a heated bed necessary? Especially since this printer doesn't have one? Or should I look at a ABS printer instead?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I plan on printing 1:1 scale props.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1722" LastActivityDate="2016-12-21T14:04:22.913" Title="Is a heated bed necessary if printing with PLA?" Tags="|filament|pla|heated-bed|enclosure|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2016-12-21T19:14:38.433" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3246" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3244" CreationDate="2016-12-21T14:04:22.913" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is problem with sticking to bed without preheat, PLA is possible to print on Kapton tape with no-heated bed. Or there are other tapes dedicated for printing. da Vinci 1.0w is good for small models with PLA. ABS is not possible with no heated bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5329" LastActivityDate="2016-12-21T14:04:22.913" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3247" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3243" CreationDate="2016-12-21T17:56:13.417" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think that you've got the right idea in concept, but benchmarking is typically the best way to prove this out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;You should get in the habit of designing with assembly in mind.&lt;/strong&gt; This means:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hole sizes should be larger than intended and/or shafts should be smaller than intended&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Scaling does not always solve the issue! Avoid relying on scale tools as it can result in reducing/enlarging features you did not intend to scale&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;My own experience has shown that a &lt;em&gt;clearance&lt;/em&gt; of about &lt;strong&gt;0.005&quot; to 0.010&quot;&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;sub&gt;(~125&amp;mu;m to ~250&amp;mu;m)&lt;/sub&gt; should be enough. However it may be different for your situation with a different printer, filament, climate, etc.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Also consider material shrinkage from the printing process!&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="98" LastActivityDate="2016-12-21T17:56:13.417" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3248" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1430" CreationDate="2016-12-21T19:24:23.713" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most &lt;em&gt;reputable&lt;/em&gt; suppliers of filament should have MSDS (Material Safety Data Sheet) available for the material they are providing. This sheet should provide you with some mechanical, electrical, and chemical properties as well as &lt;strong&gt;safety concerns&lt;/strong&gt;. For the most part an ABS MSDS will tell you that it can be harmful to inhale or consume ABS in any phase state (solid, gas, liquid, etc.).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although you didn't explicitly state it in your question, your &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/ventilation&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;ventilation&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;ventilation&lt;/a&gt; tag will lead to some pretty good answers to a somewhat related question about &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/513/what-are-the-best-air-filtration-options-for-enclosures&quot;&gt;air filtration options&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="98" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T13:00:58.447" LastActivityDate="2016-12-21T19:24:23.713" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3249" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3243" CreationDate="2016-12-21T19:30:07.203" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a lot of factors to 3D printing parts that work and fit together. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A lot of it will be discovered by trial and error, but let's try to put you on the right path. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First your material is what matters the most. Specifically their coefficient of thermal expansion, i.e. how much can the plastic change when heat is applied. PLA's coefficient is low compared to ABS, for example. Which is why the MakerBot can print without a heated bed, but it cannot print ABS with any success.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a &lt;a href=&quot;http://omnexus.specialchem.com/polymer-properties/properties/coefficient-of-linear-thermal-expansion&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;list of coefficient of thermal expansions&lt;/a&gt; by material.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What you want to do next is to print out a few test items and see for yourself. Below is an example of reality vs. expectation. As you can see the circle shrinks. It will never expand. So you will always make it bigger than you need. It is also good to note in this example below that the block itself is Larger than expected. The best solution is to not expect high tolerances and build a lot of flex into your designs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/v0e4Q.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/v0e4Q.png&quot; alt=&quot;Example of thermal expansion&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Generally you want the hole size larger. If I wanted a 4 mm minimum hole, then I would likely make it 5+ mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The best thing you can do is print out a tray and document how different the sizes are. Also, do the same with a print of various peg sizes. Below is an example of such a tray.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1jmQn.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1jmQn.png&quot; alt=&quot;Example of a print of various holes&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Also, you might want to look into other materials such as Nylon and Carbon fiber.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;A great source of more tips. Here is a great tutorial, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.shapeways.com/tutorials/designing_mechanical_parts_3d_printing_the_whoosh&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Designing Mechanical Parts - The Whoosh Machine by shapeways&lt;/a&gt;, on designing parts.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;A &lt;a href=&quot;http://reprap.org/wiki/Lubrication&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;RepRap Wiki article&lt;/a&gt; on different lubricants in regards to 3D printers. Most people use silicon lube for parts to my knowledge. Again, it depends on your material. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Images taken from this link, &lt;a href=&quot;https://innovationstation.utexas.edu/tip-design/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;The Innovation Station - Tips for Designing 3D Printed Parts&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2146" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2016-12-22T01:30:54.107" LastActivityDate="2016-12-22T01:30:54.107" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3250" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1430" CreationDate="2016-12-21T20:31:44.290" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes... The issue with &lt;em&gt;all&lt;/em&gt; 3d printing materials. Not just ABS, but worse with ABS is the fine air particulate and Ultra fine it creates during the 3d printing process. PLA is considered &lt;em&gt;safer&lt;/em&gt; than ABS. But I fear people will use this as justification, it is like saying I only smoke one cig a day instead of two so I am safe and healthy. No it really should be taken seriously.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a number of scientific papers and articles proving that this is an issue. Specifically that 3d printers release ultra fine particles into the air. Which can damage the lungs over time. I would STRONGLY advise not using a 3d printer around children, or at least putting it in the garage where you will not contaminate your homes air supply.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I.E.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S1352231013005086&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S1352231013005086&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://built-envi.com/portfolio/ultrafine-particle-emissions-from-3d-printers/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://built-envi.com/portfolio/ultrafine-particle-emissions-from-3d-printers/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/11139166&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/11139166&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.3ders.org/articles/20160201-new-study-shows-health-hazards-of-3d-printing-suggests-pla-could-be-your-safest-bet.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.3ders.org/articles/20160201-new-study-shows-health-hazards-of-3d-printing-suggests-pla-could-be-your-safest-bet.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lot of these have some scary looking graphs. Note that I am being a bit sarcastic when I say &quot;scary looking graphs&quot; the take away is ABS has twice the Fine Partical emission as PLA. However should you be worried, is still up to debate. The idea is that FPE can maybe contribute to cancer or other illnesses. FPEs are thought to irritate the lungs. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These graphs are of the ultra fine particle emissions.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kFA4o.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kFA4o.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tcg08.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tcg08.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;as you can see PLA is MUCH safer in this regard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I cannot find the paper at the moment, but the recommendation is a full air cycle several times an hour. As someone that lives in a Cold state I personally just use PLA and am rolling the dice. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/513/what-are-the-best-air-filtration-options-for-enclosures/3212#3212&quot;&gt;another SO&lt;/a&gt; where I cover my future plans for an air scrubber.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I will note that other materials such as Polycarbonate should just be plain avoided.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also want to provide these links on WHY ultra fine particles are bad. In summary they really upset your lungs and are thought to cause lung cancer over time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ultrafine_particle&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Wikipedia on Ultra fine particulates.&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC1740105/pdf/v058p00211.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;White paper on ultra fine particulates.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2146" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T13:00:58.447" LastActivityDate="2017-01-23T16:39:39.903" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3251" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3227" CreationDate="2016-12-21T21:02:18.823" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I will attempt to answer your question, as it stands. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Dealing with the first part, according to the &lt;a href=&quot;http://eu.xyzprinting.com/eu_en/Product/da-Vinci-1.0-Junior#spec_single&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;product specifications&lt;/a&gt;, the resolution, or layer thickness, is indeed 100 &amp;mu;m, when printing using the &lt;strong&gt;Fine&lt;/strong&gt; setting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Resolution&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Fine 0.1 mm (100 microns)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Standard 0.2 mm (200 microns)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Speed 0.3 mm (300 microns)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Ultra Fast 0.4 mm (400 microns)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With respect to the second part of your question, &lt;em&gt;how could I do this?&lt;/em&gt; You simply put the printer into &lt;strong&gt;Fine&lt;/strong&gt; mode, and the resulting print will be printed with 100 &amp;mu;m thick layers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this is not what you wanted to ask, then please clarify your question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4762" LastActivityDate="2016-12-21T21:02:18.823" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3252" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3243" CreationDate="2016-12-21T21:13:52.200" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can't attest to the empirical data laid out in the first answer, but I've had to deal with a lot of components printed in two parts to be connected via design-incorporated channels. I always found that, as a reference, a box of width and length 0.98&quot; will slide securely, but freely, into a square channel of width and length 1&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5095" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2016-12-22T00:55:15.710" LastActivityDate="2016-12-22T00:55:15.710" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3253" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3202" CreationDate="2016-12-21T21:20:01.730" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can only go with my own experiences; a Printrbot simple metal originally with no heated bed and blue tape was fine for small parts if printed with a reasonable brim and rafts when needed (Slic3r does that) but larger prints tended to warp and curl. I upgraded to a heated bed, which I run at 55 - 60&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C for every print. Additionally, I now use Kapton tape on the bed and glue stick. I have recently reprinted a part for my printer, an LCD housing, to replace the badly warped original, which is my benchmark print. I have no warping/curling problems to the point that I have reduced the standard brim from 5&amp;nbsp;mm to 2&amp;nbsp;mm to save some material. Some additional detail - only PLA at present from a 0.4&amp;nbsp;mm extruder at 205&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C in 0.2 or 0.3&amp;nbsp;mm layer height for the finer detail. Takes longer but the results are worth it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5336" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-07-03T04:22:25.627" LastActivityDate="2019-07-03T04:22:25.627" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="3254" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1430" CreationDate="2016-12-21T21:32:50.683" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I haven't printed much ABS but I rapidly realised that printing ABS in an enclosed space soon fills up with fumes, which apart from their toxic nature, see answer above, really stink. I close off the print space rest of the house and wear a two-filter painters respirator when in the same environment and ventilate the room when finished - I live in a temperate zone so leaving the window open isn't always an option and drafts can affect the print. Ideally, I should enclose the printer and filter the airflow but for the amount of ABS I print, it's not an economic option so a respirator it is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5336" LastActivityDate="2016-12-21T21:32:50.683" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3255" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2689" CreationDate="2016-12-21T22:05:12.647" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;As @Tom pointed out, heating that much area is a pretty big deal. I would just add:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You can't draw anywhere near that much power from the normal heatbed output on a PC board like RAMPs. You could, however, use the normal output to control a big relay (semiconductor or not); that also lets you keep the high-power wiring away from the rest.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You'll want multiple temperature sensors and heat zones, for at least 2 reasons: First, variation may be high over such an area; and second, you can save a lot of power by only powering up the portions you're going to use.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, just like with home heating, having multiple zones makes things much more complicated. The software for managing heatbed temperature isn't likely to support multiple heaters (especially since most cards don't have enough outputs to make use of it).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've done a bit with this since my printer is about 4x as long as normal (but &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; 4x as wide too, like yours). So far I just use one standard PC-board heatbed, and if I have to print something longer than that I do without the heatbed entirely (mine is easy to take in and out). Present plan is to get a few more of the same PC-board heaters, and have an entirely separate box with temperature dials to control each one. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But that still means the printer software won't be in control. So I couldn't (for example), have a different temp for the first few layers, or have the print stop if the heatbed gets out of range. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To put the printer back in charge, I'd have to do something like calculate the average (or maximum?) temperature of the zones, and create a signal that looks like what a thermistor or thermocouple would generate, to send to the printer software. The software would then turn the heat on or off as usual, but that output would go to the control box, which would decide what specifically to do about it. For example, even when the printer says to turn off, the heat control might keep the cooler zones on until they catch up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In other words, it gets pretty messy... :( &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastActivityDate="2016-12-21T22:05:12.647" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3256" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2689" CreationDate="2016-12-21T22:36:19.157" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am heating my 1 meter by 1 meter plate (yes those numbers are correct) (in progress long term project) of tempered glass with a silicone heater bed I bought as overstock on ebay.&#xA;Silicone Heating Mat&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CkTZc.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CkTZc.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Silicon bed&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://reprap.org/wiki/Heated_Bed#Silicone_Heating_Mat&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;From Reprap Wiki&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Silicone Heater Pad in sizes&#xA;  silicone heater pad Pros: Fast heating Reliable Most use mains voltage&#xA;  - DOESN'T require any amps from the 12 volt supply Very low height Easy to install (adhesive backed) Can be relatively inexpensive 12 V&#xA;  types can be run directly from the controller MOSFET without a relay&#xA;  Integrated thermistor Long life span Cons: Can be expensive - silicon&#xA;  mat (50€) plus solid state relay (16€). Mains voltage, but can be&#xA;  purchased for 12 V. Need GROUND line to aluminum bed for safety.&#xA;  Relatively high temperatures possible (safety problem if thermistor&#xA;  dies/falls off).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also talked to a few alibaba companies and they will happily make you a custom order. Just be wary working with them. You will also need to start another question about the particular parts you need. Actually I think I have a second one I bought from Aliexpress about that size. So no custom orders needed. Ran about 100 USD. I will note I used a MIC6 aluminum plate, custom cut at a local shop. That will have a more even heat profile than glass.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I will note that I have to run mine from 220 VAC not 110 VAC power lines.. But the actual electrical costs are pretty low!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2146" LastEditorUserId="4922" LastEditDate="2019-11-05T20:18:50.587" LastActivityDate="2019-11-05T20:18:50.587" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="3257" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3184" CreationDate="2016-12-21T22:45:26.757" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;What you are looking for is the Frostruder style extruders.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a link to a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1143&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;thingiverse file for it&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You honestly cannot expect fantastic results but it will get the job done! There are many other types. Quality will depend on the size of the point. However with something as high viscosity as clay I would not expect you to be able to push the quality very high.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2146" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:29:41.667" LastActivityDate="2016-12-21T22:45:26.757" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3258" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3178" CreationDate="2016-12-22T05:08:39.137" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Injection molds generally require tooling and are not usually cast from 3D prints.  Depending on the size of your part - costs can easily skyrocket to over $60,000.  The price per part is sometimes lower than other methods.  Other possible methods (depending on the part) are Thermo-Forming, Vacu-Forming, and different Casting methods - sandcasting (investment casting), flexible casting (rubber, urethane, and alginate), and hard casting (printing mold negative).  Some have immediate use of 3D Printed parts...others have work flows in place to convert your files for use. You can print a mold negative, prep it, use mold release, and cast shapes from that mold... certainly the casting material would be flexible or the mold would need the proper relief-  But it is certainly possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5339" LastActivityDate="2016-12-22T05:08:39.137" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3260" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3013" CreationDate="2016-12-22T14:29:27.813" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Its not possible to say without seeing the physical machine but I would assume its a mechanical problem. Perhaps the belt or a gear is worn out missing some piece so it slips sometimes. Or the gear its a little loose on its axle. When machine is off you can move the extruder by hand and try to feel if it does so smoothly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would not think its electrical but first thing to do is to detach all cables and put them back, because its easy to do. Second is the dismount stepper motor and check that its gear is attached firmly. If there is a bad cable then flexing and pulling it slightly might escalate the problem so that its always broken, which can be a good thing since intermittent problems are so hard to find.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If its the stepper motor driver electronics then a new driver board is needed, last thing to try unless you have two machines and can borrow a part.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I emailed makerbot support once about another problem, I did get some advice that way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5344" LastActivityDate="2016-12-22T14:29:27.813" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3261" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-12-22T20:35:41.870" Score="7" ViewCount="9408" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm running an OctoPi Raspberry Pi installation of OctoPrint, and the webcam images are too bright. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found some documentation on changing the exposure of mjpg-streamer, see &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/foosel/OctoPrint/wiki/MJPG-Streamer-configuration&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;github:foosel/OctoPrint/MJPG Streamer configuration&lt;/a&gt;, but I don't understand where, or how, to change these settings. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5350" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2016-12-25T02:46:41.463" LastActivityDate="2019-08-17T15:27:55.127" Title="OctoPrint mjpg-streamer configuration" Tags="|octoprint|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3262" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2990" CreationDate="2016-12-23T14:20:13.480" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;okay, after ferociously dismantling the whole bed I found out that the bed and the bed support are perfectly straight!&#xA;So there is something  warping the bed and support. De Y-axis bars are perfectly flat too. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found out that my table is not flat! This made the complete printer warped and even bent the print bed. put some cardboard under the frontleft foot and presto! As flat as it should be! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4708" LastActivityDate="2016-12-23T14:20:13.480" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3263" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3264" CreationDate="2016-12-23T17:07:50.837" Score="5" ViewCount="688" Body="&lt;p&gt;tried searching but couldn't find anything.&#xA;I do not have a 3d printer so can't really experiment on my own, which means that when I am going to order a 3d print I want to get it as good as possible. So, my question:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do quality of geometry matters when 3d printing? Will 3d printer only print quads, or ngons are fine? Are there shapes to avoid?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cheers :)&#xA;M.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5356" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2018-09-16T12:50:09.813" LastActivityDate="2018-09-16T12:50:09.813" Title="Mesh/Geometry quality" Tags="|print-quality|3d-models|3d-design|cad|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3264" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3263" CreationDate="2016-12-23T20:11:21.003" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Welcome to the site!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In regards to quads, vs polygon. People will often reduce the overall detail to make it easier to print. But so long as after you export it to a STL and verify that your Manifold edges were done correctly and what you though was solid is solid, you should be good to go. As near as I can tell so long as you can export it to STL then it doesn't matter what meshing you use. That said I see Polygons more than anything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Worst case you can run it through a STL repair program and it will make the required changes for you. Usually I used these tools to fix poorly rendered files.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://tools3d.azurewebsites.net/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;My favorite is Nettfab.&lt;/a&gt; which is now part of microsoft.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can verify if it will print by downloading &lt;a href=&quot;http://slic3r.org/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;slic3r&lt;/a&gt;, then &quot;slicing&quot; the file. After that you should be able to view a layer by later output.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://blog.digitaltutors.com/modeling-with-quads-or-triangles/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Article talking about quads vs triangles from design&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.shapeways.com/tutorials/prepping_blender_files_for_3d_printing&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Shapeways article on preparing blender files for 3d printing&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2146" LastEditorUserId="2146" LastEditDate="2016-12-23T20:34:51.130" LastActivityDate="2016-12-23T20:34:51.130" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3265" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3266" CreationDate="2016-12-24T03:13:41.090" Score="5" ViewCount="1236" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to design a camera handle, which will be around 8&quot; long and will have a brass camera thread insert in the end, where the camera will be mounted.  (That way, I don't have to screw the camera thread into plastic which will wear out faster.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I print the handle normally, the end of the handle won't be solid so I can't solidly put that brass fitting in.  If I set the fill in Cura to 100%, the print will take a very long time and will be unnecessarily solid.  I only need a centimeter or two at the end to be solid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a way to get one particular wall in Cura to be very thick (1-2cm) without affecting the other walls?  Is there some other way to get a solid chunk in the end of the part?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5362" LastActivityDate="2018-08-15T12:41:26.483" Title="Thick wall or solid part of an otherwise medium-fill part" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|infill|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3266" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3265" CreationDate="2016-12-24T04:27:08.973" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think you are approaching this wrong. Sounds like you need to design it to have a hollow wall. That said to answer your question no you cannot have your slicer modify prints like that. But it bears mentioning you can set all shells to what ever you want have have a very sparse infill. To you can set vertical shells to 3 or so. Top to 3 bottom to 2 and infill to 7-15% so it will be 93% hollow not counting the 3 layers of solid skin. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Post pics of your design. Or let me know what else I can add. Check out my answer to this &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/3198/reducing-amount-of-material/3206#3206&quot;&gt;other stack overflow question&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2146" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T13:00:58.447" LastActivityDate="2016-12-24T04:27:08.973" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3267" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3261" CreationDate="2016-12-24T06:51:22.783" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The commands in your documentation only work with the Raspi camera.  If that's the camera you're using, you can use the tools mentioned from terminal on your Raspberry Pi, or over SSH.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't have SSH setup and are using your Raspberry Pi with a keyboard and mouse, you can access the command line by pressing &lt;kbd&gt;ctrl&lt;/kbd&gt;+&lt;kbd&gt;alt&lt;/kbd&gt;+&lt;kbd&gt;f1&lt;/kbd&gt;  &lt;strong&gt;remembering that&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;kbd&gt;ctrl&lt;/kbd&gt;+&lt;kbd&gt;alt&lt;/kbd&gt;+&lt;kbd&gt;f7&lt;/kbd&gt; brings back your GUI.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Setting exposure for Raspi camera&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First navigate to the folder you installed &lt;code&gt;mjpg-streamer&lt;/code&gt;.  If you installed it in your home folder:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;cd ~/mjpg-streamer/mjpg-streamer-experimental&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then use the &lt;code&gt;input_raspicam.so&lt;/code&gt; utility to set the exposure using whatever preset you'd like.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;./input_raspicam.so -ex night&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;If you don't have a Raspi camera&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm currently using a Logitech HD Webcam C310 with OctoPrint.  I'm pretty sure setting the exposure for that is a pretty standard operation and you shouldn't need to install anything.  v4l2 (video 4 linux 2) comes installed with Raspian. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To set the exposure for a Logitech camera (possibly others too) first enable manual exposure mode (1 for manual, 0 for auto)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;v4l2-ctl -c exposure_auto=1&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then set the exposure value with&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;v4l2-ctl -c exposure_absolute=100&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;replacing 100 with whatever value you'd like.  The values start at 1 and have a maximum value of 10,000.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These commands can of course be run over SSH.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also run &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;v4l2-ctl --list-ctrls-menus&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;to see all the options for your camera.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a screenshot of my ssh session and my OctoPrint interface for context:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tn0rn.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tn0rn.png&quot; alt=&quot;Screenshot of ssh session and OctoPrint interface&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5363" LastEditorUserId="5363" LastEditDate="2016-12-27T08:40:49.933" LastActivityDate="2016-12-27T08:40:49.933" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3269" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3263" CreationDate="2016-12-24T12:26:35.733" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're talking about the shape of the end result, rather than the constituent elements of the model - the answer is no, there is no simple geometric restriction. Have a look at &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.3dbenchy.com&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;3D benchy&lt;/a&gt; for an example of how print quality can be affected by different aspects.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One obvious issue is overhangs, so the orientation of the part is important for printing. A flat circle will (on a cartesian printer) come out smooth as X any Y move in sync, and have good support. A vertical circle will have steps introduced by the slicing which quantises X and Y from layer to latyer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sharp, un-supported corners may be the weakest aspect to resolve in the print - extruded filament tends to shrink as it cools, but as far as I know the errors like this can be reduced by printing more slowly (and reducing the dynamic flexing of the frame too).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Talking about a top surface of an extruded n-gon, if you look at the slicing output, you'll see infill in the bulk, with a layer filling only the top 3 or 4 layers. There are several infill patern options, but yes, there is scope for a scenario where the top layer needs to bridge a long way. However, since the alternate layers fill in orthogonal directions this should be a minimal effect. Tweaking the infill percentage, or chamfering the corners can fix these small defects.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4927" LastActivityDate="2016-12-24T12:26:35.733" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3270" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-12-24T19:51:33.930" Score="5" ViewCount="236" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've captured a stationary spinning object in a computer game. It's semi translucent and there are stationary objects behind it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As I expected it did not convert using Autodesk's remake. It gives no explanation other than 'Error'. I obviously can't paint the object. Are there any techniques in Photoshop that will let me manually fix the images to reduce the translucency? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any other program that might produce a mesh from images? The game objects can't be extracted via any other program I've tried.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5369" LastActivityDate="2016-12-25T16:29:03.513" Title="photogrammetry with partially translucent objects" Tags="|3d-models|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3271" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3222" CreationDate="2016-12-24T20:41:07.160" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The STL file format does not provide any way to provide the units of measurement for an object. The majority of FDM printers use millimeters so most people export objects with the assumption the values in the STL file are in millimeters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you found out that's not always true. The second most common assumption is to export in inches.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most of the slicers I've used provide a scaling option if you can't edit the STL file yourself. Some will even offer to do the inches to mm conversion for you. Scale to suit when you print or use a 3d editor. I've gotten specific sizes by creating a temporary cube the size I wanted and scaling the object using the cube as a reference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5369" LastActivityDate="2016-12-24T20:41:07.160" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3273" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3220" CreationDate="2016-12-25T12:10:29.670" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I solved this problem by &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.repetier.com/documentation/repetier-firmware/rf-installation/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;change EEPROM value to &quot;2&quot;&lt;/a&gt; in Configuration.h:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#define EEPROM_MODE 2&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now ZAXIS_STEPS_PER_MM value load from firmware, not EEPROM.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#define EEPROM_MODE 0&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;— does not result in my case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5276" LastActivityDate="2016-12-25T12:10:29.670" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3274" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3270" CreationDate="2016-12-25T16:29:03.513" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found at least 2 online pages that'll create a 3D stl from an image, basically using intensity (brightness) to determine depth. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.selva3d.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;selva3d.com&lt;/a&gt;  and   &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.embossify.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;embossify.com&lt;/a&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I used it with success on a binary (black or white) image, at least.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2191" LastActivityDate="2016-12-25T16:29:03.513" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3275" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3276" CreationDate="2016-12-25T21:04:16.493" Score="2" ViewCount="1770" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have just got a Monoprice Maker Select 3d printer (which is really just a Wanhao Duplicator i3). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to print a model that came on the included SD card (&lt;code&gt;1.gcode&lt;/code&gt;) with ABS filament. I first press &quot;&lt;code&gt;Preheat ABS&lt;/code&gt;&quot; and wait for the display to show the correct temperatures, 245°C for the extruder and 90°C for the print bed. Then, I mount the SD card and select the file to print. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, once I do that, the &quot;goal&quot; temperatures change to 195°C for the extruder and 50°C for the print bed, and the temperatures reported by the printer gradually go down as the printer waits for it to match the &quot;goal&quot; temperature. This results in a failed print, with the filament sticking to the extruder in a clump. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is going on here? I am trying PLA with the same file, and it seems to work fine, although the temperature change still occurs. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5381" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-12-10T06:29:33.110" LastActivityDate="2019-12-10T06:29:33.110" Title="Printer changing temperature after selecting file" Tags="|abs|monoprice-maker-select|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3276" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3275" CreationDate="2016-12-25T21:57:23.533" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The demo files are gcode files generated for use with the sample PLA that comes with the printer. If you want to print it with ABS select the file and set the temperature manually afterwards. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5382" LastActivityDate="2016-12-25T21:57:23.533" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3277" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3275" CreationDate="2016-12-25T22:00:34.290" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you want to use the demo files, you can probably pause the print as soon as it starts, and manually set the extruder temperatures before resuming the print. Easier to generate new g-code though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4927" LastActivityDate="2016-12-25T22:00:34.290" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3278" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4147" CreationDate="2016-12-26T09:46:12.370" Score="6" ViewCount="6226" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is my problem:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm assembling a 3D printer with the RAMPS 1.4 board and Arduino Mega. I have assembled the structure and the electronics (set drivers, placed the jumpers, connected stepper motors...) and have uploaded Marlin firmware (configuring: thermistor, endstops...) on the Arduino Mega.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've tried to connect, via USB, to the computer and using the Repetier software I have commanded the printer which did do some movement. The printer worked perfectly. After a few tests, however, I've noticed that the Arduino was restarting several times and at one point I saw a component on the Arduino board burning. Searching the internet I saw that the burned component was the voltage regulator.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I heard also about unplugging the screen because it consumes a lot of current, that passes through the voltage regulator, thereby heating it up. I then proceeded to buy another Arduino Mega. I also checked the voltage of my 12V 360W power supply and it is correct. I always powered the Arduino with USB and RAMPS 1.4 was connected to the power supply from the two terminals.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PFSWR.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PFSWR.png&quot; alt=&quot;Power Terminals of RAMPS 1.4&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the new Arduino arrived, I connected the whole (without connecting the screen) and tried. The printer worked very well until it started giving the same problem as the first Arduino board. Someone can tell me if I have done something wrong, or is it the RAMPS board that does not work properly?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;EDIT:&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I read that the endstops can cause this problem. I have these endstops: &lt;a href=&quot;https://it.aliexpress.com/item/1PCS-High-Quality-Mechanical-Endstop-For-Reprap-ramps-1-4-3D-printer-With-independent-packing-diy/32454910275.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;1 PZ di Alta Qualità Finecorsa Meccanico Per rampe Reprap 1.4 stampante 3D Con imballaggio indipendente kit fai da te&lt;/a&gt; and I connected the black wire to GND, red wire to 5V and the green wire to SIGNAL.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5383" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:29:41.667" LastActivityDate="2018-02-27T02:28:06.387" Title="Arduino Mega voltage regulator overheats with RAMPS board" Tags="|reprap|ramps-1.4|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3279" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-12-26T10:07:44.130" Score="1" ViewCount="290" Body="&lt;p&gt;How can this be done given that the object to be printed is the same size as itself? In the CubePro printers that I have used before, the object to be printed is inside some kind of glass panel. Only objects that are smaller can be printed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5384" LastActivityDate="2016-12-26T11:31:52.873" Title="How does a 3D printer print itself given the huge size?" Tags="|desktop-printer|replicating-printers|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3280" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3279" CreationDate="2016-12-26T11:31:52.873" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;3D printers obviously do not print themselves. 3D printers are sometimes used to make &lt;em&gt;parts for&lt;/em&gt; other 3D printers, and this is what is meant by &quot;self-replicating&quot; 3D printers (which is a bit of a misnomer, considering that all designs require a substantial amount of non-printed &quot;vitamin&quot; parts).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A printer that is able to produce many of its own parts is the &lt;a href=&quot;http://reprap.org/wiki/Snappy&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;RepRap snappy&lt;/a&gt;, which (as the name suggests) consists of plastic parts that - while they each fit within the build volume - snap together to make up the larger parts for the printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kJ8Ql.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kJ8Ql.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;RepRap Snappy, from the RepRap wiki, GNU Free Documentation License 1.2&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastActivityDate="2016-12-26T11:31:52.873" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3283" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3298" CreationDate="2016-12-27T17:56:50.160" Score="9" ViewCount="4715" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have never much cared about self intersecting meshes when slicing with Cura. Geometry like the one below are often practical. I for instance add lots of rivets that self intersect with the base geometry:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cRZqk.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cRZqk.png&quot; alt=&quot;self intersecting mesh&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now I have switched printer, and am using Simplify3D instead. All of a sudden, I get lots of problems with these models. The intersection of the objects become hollow. Simplify3D has a setting to join the outer solid shell but it also fills holes (such as the center hole of a gear).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I make models to sell so this is a big deal for me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: Also, they printed perfectly fine in formlabs &quot;slicer&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5395" LastEditorUserId="5395" LastEditDate="2016-12-27T18:41:38.727" LastActivityDate="2017-01-04T19:09:47.393" Title="Are self intersecting meshes dirty from a 3D printing perspective?" Tags="|3d-models|3d-design|ultimaker-cura|simplify3d|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3284" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-12-27T20:34:45.507" Score="1" ViewCount="323" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm having an issue with my new Prusa i3. (This one: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B01DLIRDFW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;psc=1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B01DLIRDFW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;psc=1&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For some reason the Y and Z axis are swapped when I print Gcode files, even though all the axis move correctly when I manually move them with the interface on the LCD. Also, if I try to print an STL file, the Z axis moves in one direction more than it is actually limited to, and then does the same again in the opposite direction when the print starts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyone know the solutions?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user5397" LastActivityDate="2017-01-27T03:55:17.193" Title="Reprap prusa i3 Y and Z axis swapped when printing GCODE files" Tags="|fdm|reprap|diy-3d-printer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3285" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3286" CreationDate="2016-12-27T22:12:26.510" Score="3" ViewCount="4803" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just got a Hictop Prusa i3 printer and I have it fully assembled. When I tested out the motors to check them the Z-axis motors were not moving and it was making a grinding sound. I have lifted the screw rods out of the coupling to see if the motor would move the coupling would move and it did. I can move the screw rods manually and it works. How can I make the Z-axis work?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you in Advance!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is the vidoe of the problem &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.dropbox.com/s/93g0pg0qfhq965d/IMG_0369.MOV?dl=0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.dropbox.com/s/93g0pg0qfhq965d/IMG_0369.MOV?dl=0&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8RRJj.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8RRJj.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5400" LastEditorUserId="5400" LastEditDate="2016-12-29T15:35:29.083" LastActivityDate="2016-12-29T15:35:29.083" Title="Prusa i3 Z axis not moving up" Tags="|prusa-i3|printer-building|z-axis|motor|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3286" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3285" CreationDate="2016-12-28T03:15:01.333" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Welcome to the group! A video would help. Or at least some photos.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are both the motors connected? If you remove them from the coupling do they move? Likely it is binding (too much friction, not level etc) or you need to adjust your voltage controller. I am going to say 80% confident you need to play with the voltage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Chances are it's just the voltage. I do not know what electronics you have but if they are RAMPS 1.4 then you are looking for these&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZZ31k.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZZ31k.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also here is &lt;a href=&quot;http://reprap.org/wiki/RAMPS_1.4&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;the wiki on the 1.4&lt;/a&gt;. Just turn the screw gently. One direction will give it more power. The other less. When it has too much power your motors will start making a thud noise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT post adding the video&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Oh yeah that is binding. If you wouldn't mind putting the video on youtube to that the video can help people for years to come? Dropbox is a bit volitle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would also in addition to &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/3294/is-there-a-problem-with-removing-a-polished-rod-from-the-z-axis&quot;&gt;my advice in your other question&lt;/a&gt; take a bubble leveler to all the rods. It could be a distortion on your camera but it looks like the rod is a bit bent. Also in my Prusa (original) I used to have to make the motor mounts lose, as it did not fit all that well and had binding issues. Try making the screws loose enough so that they float and can move around a lot. The lead screws are less important to the overall stability. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2146" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T13:00:58.447" LastActivityDate="2016-12-28T22:22:55.903" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3287" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3284" CreationDate="2016-12-28T03:23:21.157" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sounds like your slicing program is not set up right.. Or more likely your printer isn't.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would use &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.pronterface.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Pronterface&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I use simplify 3d, but the best free software is &lt;a href=&quot;http://slic3r.org/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Slic3r&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Try those then report back. Honestly I think you might not have it wired correctly. With pronterface tell it to move X. Then try moving it and manually holding the endstop. Then if it does not stop try going tho incorrect way with that endstop still pressed. If you find that your reversed you will need to correct this with your firmware. If I knew this was a ramps board you could reverse the wires, but lets do it in firmware as I am not buying you a new board. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After that you should work. Software wise we just made sure your interface and your slic3r work and talk the same language. Those two I know will not be doing anything funny. After that report back if it is still not working.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2146" LastActivityDate="2016-12-28T03:23:21.157" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3288" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3290" CreationDate="2016-12-28T07:53:40.060" Score="1" ViewCount="10054" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm new with my 3D printer, I just print two different pawn pieces from thingverse. I just used Cura to convert the files to be readable for the printer. Is my problem with the pieces has to do with the configuration from the Cura software? or with my printer itself? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xh3Bi.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Print showing issue&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xh3Bi.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Print showing issue&quot; title=&quot;Print showing issue&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Update:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I just printed a baymax that came with the SD printer. And it looks awesome. I think the problem is with the configuration from Cura.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iXMhm.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Print of acceptable quality&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iXMhm.png&quot; alt=&quot;Print of acceptable quality&quot; title=&quot;Print of acceptable quality&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5404" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-07-08T12:04:27.370" LastActivityDate="2018-11-12T00:51:27.943" Title="3D print Configuration Cura - Anet A8" Tags="|print-quality|fdm|anet-a8|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="3289" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3288" CreationDate="2016-12-28T08:55:12.103" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;That looks like horrible underextrusion. Either the extruder steps/mm are way off, but more likely is that your nozzle is clogged (because I wouldn't expect the steps/mm to be this far off). It's also possible that the temperature you're printing at is inappropriate for the filament you're using. Also, make sure that the fan that is cooling the heatsink of the extruder is always on. If not, filament may soften in places it's not supposed to and jam.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Try heating the extruder up and pushing the filament through by hand. You'll probably feel a lot of resistance and the filament won't come out smoothly. You could try doing a couple of &lt;a href=&quot;http://bukobot.com/nozzle-cleaning&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;cold pulls&lt;/a&gt;, that is, put a piece of filament in while the hotend is hot, then let it cool down and attempt to extract the filament at the lowest possible temperature. This may pull debris or particles blocking the nozzle out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this doesn't help, there are various other ways of clearing a clog from the nozzle. One popular technique is disassembling the entire hotend and burning out all the debris from the nozzle with a blowtorch. Another is using a special drill bit to clear out the nozzle but this has a high risk of damaging it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastActivityDate="2016-12-28T08:55:12.103" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3290" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3288" CreationDate="2016-12-28T09:26:44.880" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Underextrusion (as this looks like) could be a extruder problem. The extruders main part is the small gear that pushes the filament through the hotend. There could be lots of reasons for it to fail:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The motor driving it isn't strong enough. Poorly designed printer (yeah, ultimaker, I'm looking at you). Not very likely. But a geared extruder or motor can improve extrusion.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You print at to low hotend temp. If you increase the temperature the filament will become more fluid and easier to push out. Increasing the temperature will unfortunately increase risk for clogging and stringing.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The filament has absorbed moisture. Try drying it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You print to fast. Lowering the speed may do the trick. You also have to wait longer (dhu).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The acutal gear in the extruder is full of filament bits, clean it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You don't put enough force on the filament against the gear. Can you tighten it?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The gear is not hobbed. A hobbed gear will grip the filament better. You might not be able to switch it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The filament has become tangled on the spool. Be careful when you handle it to not unroll it. This usually results in that the filament becomes entirely stuck though.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The nozzle is clogged. See answer from @Tom van der Zanden.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't have a geared extruder you can print one. There are plenty of them on thingiverse. Increase the temp and lower the speed to get this vital part in good quality.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or you can buy a geared extruder. (I use the titan extruder from e3d)&#xA;Or you can buy a geared motor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;How to detect an extrusion problem:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is quite easy to hear if you have extrusion problems (at least some of them). The Extruder will make a sound like &quot;drrrr&quot; with regular intervalls as it tries to push through the filament. Almost like a clock ticking but slower. This is the gear slipping against the filament.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;If you don't have an extrusion problem:&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;Experiment with upping the Material flow rate in your slicer (in your case Cura). Try something like 300%. Stand watch and see what happens. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Lyqyf.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Lyqyf.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this almost fixes the problem, you must calibrate the printers extrusion. It is possible that the already generated Gcode (found on the sd-card) compensates for this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5395" LastEditorUserId="5395" LastEditDate="2017-01-03T14:45:57.087" LastActivityDate="2017-01-03T14:45:57.087" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3291" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3292" CreationDate="2016-12-28T14:14:56.003" Score="2" ViewCount="635" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hello is there a way to prevent bend on print with M3D printer? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/j2IRe.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/j2IRe.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5110" LastActivityDate="2017-01-04T07:46:29.847" Title="How to prevent bend (or warping) with M3D printer?" Tags="|warping|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3292" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3291" CreationDate="2016-12-28T14:37:12.097" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can to print a brim, a thin layer on the bottom connected to the model. This will help hold it in place. Since it is thin (one or two layers) it will not warp itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The brim is not the same thing as a raft. A raft is under the model. The brim is on the same layer as the models bottom layer but outside the model. It looks something like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0PvWl.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0PvWl.png&quot; alt=&quot;brim&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I assume that you use a heated bed if you have one?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, it is imperative that you get a good first layer. Calibrate your machine carefully.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5395" LastEditorUserId="5395" LastEditDate="2016-12-28T19:19:20.433" LastActivityDate="2016-12-28T19:19:20.433" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3294" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3295" CreationDate="2016-12-28T21:14:16.630" Score="1" ViewCount="640" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently had a problem with the z-axis of my printer. To resolve the issue with the Z axis not moving I remove the left polished rod. Am I able to use the printer with just one smooth rod?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5400" LastEditorUserId="2146" LastEditDate="2016-12-29T16:33:08.170" LastActivityDate="2019-08-01T02:51:31.577" Title="Is there a problem with removing a polished rod from the Z-axis?" Tags="|z-axis|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3295" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3294" CreationDate="2016-12-28T22:12:55.873" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;First a resounding no. Not a good idea. Are you saying it works now that you have removed the smooth rod?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That tells me for sure your issue was Binding. Which is a tricky problem to solve. Binding usually happens when your carriage is not level. Take a bubble leveler and verify.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another time it happens is when your Acceleration / Jerk settings are too high. Try reducing the Acceleration for Z in the firmware.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another possibility is your rod is Bent. Take the rod on a flat surface. Inspect it as you roll it around. Do the same with the other rod. If it bows and is not completely flat, then you will need to replace it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Last is make sure your printers frame is put together. If it is causing the rod to bend as it is not aligned right then you should try to see if you can fix it and contact the seller.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Technically you can run without the second rod. Maybe. I do not advise. It is sort of like cutting off a leg because you have a cramp. It will hurt your overall quality and it is better to just resolve the issue. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2146" LastEditorUserId="2146" LastEditDate="2016-12-29T02:00:46.723" LastActivityDate="2016-12-29T02:00:46.723" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3296" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3291" CreationDate="2016-12-28T22:35:09.653" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Going to also say you need to provide us with a ton more information. What settings, what temps, what plastic. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said the best thing I can recommend is doing a Raft for your print. Adding a Fan to your printer. Making sure your heated bed is on. I also like to use gluesticks for PLA, hairspray or Kapton for ABS. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/16968-using-glue&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Here is Ultimakers guide to Gluesticks&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.simplify3d.com/support/articles/rafts-skirts-and-brims/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Here is a guide on rafts and Brims from simplify 3d&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Comment on my answer once you provide more information and I will improve my answer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2146" LastActivityDate="2016-12-28T22:35:09.653" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3297" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3294" CreationDate="2016-12-28T23:31:12.007" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, this is not a good idea. Your X axis is now free to rotate by a few degrees around the remaining Z rod. Parts may appear to print OK, but depending on the dynamics of a print, you will see offsets between layers. You need to resolve the issues with your Z-axis.&#xA; These questions, &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/729/z-axis-hard-to-move-in-some-areas-what-could-be-faults-how-to-improve&quot;&gt;z-axis hard to move in some areas - what could be faults, how to improve?&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/3065/z-axis-steppers-and-bed-alignment-problems&quot;&gt;Z-axis steppers and bed alignment problems&lt;/a&gt; have some answers that are probably relevant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously, you can use this limited setup to print new parts if you need them, but you'll be lucky to make anything accurate enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4927" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T13:00:58.447" LastActivityDate="2016-12-28T23:31:12.007" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3298" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3283" CreationDate="2016-12-29T14:12:36.487" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Self intersecting meshes are considered dirty, yes. The reason you haven't had trouble before is probably that the software you were using was cleaning your mesh for you, behind the scenes.&#xA;Generally speaking, these meshes can be cleaned without too much trouble by software like netfabb (&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.netfabb.com/&quot;&gt;https://www.netfabb.com/&lt;/a&gt;) which has a nice free version that I use for basic cleaning of some of my meshes. A quick google on &quot;netfabb free fix mesh&quot; should turn up a tutorial or two.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're interested in learning more about an operation you can use to make this a &lt;em&gt;single unified mesh&lt;/em&gt;, it's called a Boolean Union, and the blender project has a nice (open source, I think?) implementation of such: (&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.blender.org/manual/modeling/modifiers/generate/booleans.html&quot;&gt;https://www.blender.org/manual/modeling/modifiers/generate/booleans.html&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="266" LastActivityDate="2016-12-29T14:12:36.487" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3299" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3283" CreationDate="2016-12-30T15:12:07.240" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can download MeshLab from &lt;a href=&quot;https://sourceforge.net/projects/meshlab/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://sourceforge.net/projects/meshlab/&lt;/a&gt; and use it to head stls.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This video has healing instructions: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eLGIRAgLz4w&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eLGIRAgLz4w&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4922" LastActivityDate="2016-12-30T15:12:07.240" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3300" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-12-30T23:47:10.123" Score="4" ViewCount="674" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've tried using a throat with a PTFE tube, but encountered the problem described in this &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/904/teflon-tubing-in-nozzle-throat-coming-out&quot;&gt;question&lt;/a&gt;. It seems only a small amount of excess pressure in the extruder is enough to force out the inner tube. This makes me worry that with this particular part, I won't achieve a reliable configuration (and I'm experiencing some binding with the original plain steel throat, so a PTFE liner seems worth exploring).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was wondering about the advisability of using a retainer to apply some pressure at the cold end - a nut with a washer soldered on maybe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My goal is to prevent the teflon tube from rising up, so I can use this part and retain some resilience against excess extrusion pressure. I was assuming I had a slightly sub-standard throat part (in a pack of 6).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I now wonder if the problem was caused by too high a temperature (this is ABS filament) and maybe the teflon will be too soft to function as designed, so if I go back to PLA filament, maybe it is more likely to work without modification.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Kw6bM.jpg&quot; width=&quot;200&quot;&gt; &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Zj61nm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Zj61nm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Extruder&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4927" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T13:00:58.447" LastActivityDate="2017-01-09T16:15:03.723" Title="Retainer for PTFE in throat" Tags="|extruder|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3302" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3306" CreationDate="2017-01-01T14:49:33.857" Score="19" ViewCount="65137" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to create parts for a 3D printer using OpenSCAD. Having some STL files from the vendor, but nothing else (no technical drawing, no CAD files).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anybody knows a free tool, that allows me to&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;measure distances between 2 selected vertices,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;measure distances between a selected vertex and a plane defined by 3 vertices,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;measure the radio of a circle defined by 3 selected vertices?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I very much like the way Blender allows to work with meshes, especially select vertices or planes, but unfortunately haven't found a way to measure with Blender.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5223" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2020-07-13T10:38:14.713" LastActivityDate="2023-04-24T15:06:25.557" Title="Tool to measure in STL files" Tags="|3d-models|software|blender|" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3304" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3308" CreationDate="2017-01-01T22:41:58.273" Score="8" ViewCount="53886" Body="&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Nozzle diameter = .4&#xA;Extrusion multiplier = 1&#xA;Extrusion Width = .45    &amp;lt;-- I feel like this could be reduced to fix it?&#xA;&#xA;Layer Height = .3&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm using Simplify3D.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SsiMS.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SsiMS.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1tTZ5.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1tTZ5.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4378" LastEditorUserId="4378" LastEditDate="2017-01-02T13:11:56.883" LastActivityDate="2021-12-14T20:28:08.350" Title="What causes these round corners" Tags="|extrusion|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3305" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3304" CreationDate="2017-01-02T04:25:44.087" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Oh thats simple. First you will see the &quot;elephants foot&quot; on first layers if you have the extruder over-extruding or do not have enough distance between the bed and nozzle. &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OHguv.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OHguv.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Elephants foot&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;It's very common that the first couple of layers of a print is wider than you expected them to be. This is because you will generally want to make sure the first layer is nicely squished into the build platform so that it sticks properly. By doing this the plastic gets squished out into a thicker line than normal and thus the bottom of the print will bulge out a bit like an elephant's foot. You can decrease this effect by leveling your bed so that the nozzle is slightly further away from the bed and lowering the bed temperature a bit. It's hard to get rid of this effect entirely without sacrificing bottom layer quality and bed adhesion. It will be easier on small prints as they are less likely to warp and detach from the platform and you can therefore get away with not squishing the first layer as hard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/23-a-visual-ultimaker-troubleshooting-guide&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;See this visual guide on more information&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are seeing this on all layers. That means you have oozing. When your printer hits the end of the line. It has to slow down, stop and start the next vector. During this time if your printing very hot, you will ooze material at this intersection. Also the extra time over that spot mayhaps also warm the corner, causing more disruption. Best thing in this situation is to verify you cannot lower temps more. Add a fan. Also double check that you are extruding the exact amount you think you are. (distance of material and the material size average)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://all3dp.com/common-3d-printing-problems-3d-printer-troubleshooting-guide/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Here is another visual trouble shooting guide&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I will note, I don't think thats too bad. If it needs to fit into something, just clip it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2146" LastActivityDate="2017-01-02T04:25:44.087" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3306" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3302" CreationDate="2017-01-02T07:50:31.693" Score="18" Body="&lt;p&gt;I suggest Blender. It's not the simplest of tools but it is free and learning it will improve your 3D printing skills. :-) (I write this answer also for future viewers of this question so I start basic).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another answer can be found here, &lt;a href=&quot;https://blender.stackexchange.com/q/19772/14005&quot;&gt;How do I measure a distance between two points?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Import your STL file.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Press the Home key to view everything.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Select the model by clicking on it with your left mouse button. (Blender changed to left-click-select as of version 2.80)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hit tab to enter edit-mode.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Press N (or use View | Properties) until the Properties panel shows up.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Select the &amp;quot;Length&amp;quot; checkbox in the &amp;quot;Edge Info&amp;quot; section of the Properties panel (see image below).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Select &amp;quot;Edge Select&amp;quot; mode (see image below)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Select the edge to measure by clicking on it with your right mouse button.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9Oi1c.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Edge length&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9Oi1c.png&quot; alt=&quot;Edge length&quot; title=&quot;Edge length&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ouw0q.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Screenshot of toolbar&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ouw0q.png&quot; alt=&quot;Screenshot of toolbar&quot; title=&quot;Screenshot of toolbar&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you need to measure the distance between to vertices with no edge. Create the edge by selecting them and pressing &lt;kbd&gt;F&lt;/kbd&gt;.&#xA;If you need to measure the distance between a vertex and any other point, select it and press &lt;kbd&gt;E&lt;/kbd&gt; to extrude.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5395" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2021-07-10T13:04:52.993" LastActivityDate="2021-07-10T13:04:52.993" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="3308" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3304" CreationDate="2017-01-02T17:46:41.827" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If it's on each corner, and not the layer change corner, it's a combination of overshoot and the short &quot;pause&quot; of the printer when it changes direction.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can minimize it, but it won't go away 100% (due to overshoot from direction changes), usually models with a slight rounded corners work great.  If you, say, increase the jerk as an experiment and they get sharper (but you obviously have to deal with potential ringing artifacts) then it's due to that pause and acceleration after a direction change.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would try lowering the temperature a bit to slow the flow/oozing of the nozzle and calibrate extrusion - just to keep the settings tight as possible to keep dimensional accuracy, but not under extrude obviously.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it's where a layer change occurs, tweak and play with retraction settings - such as coasting and extra distance on restart (you can put negative values here). Once those are set, as an advanced tweak, try to max the z speed... Obviously this involves motor current, testing for skipped steps etc... but this would make the layer change a bit quicker, to further reduce oozing, due to the delay in layer changes if retraction settings don't fix it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Usually, you can fix the corners with retraction settings but then it can mess up other parts of a model, since those settings are global... I wish slicers were more intelligent.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4305" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2017-05-22T16:43:10.940" LastActivityDate="2017-05-22T16:43:10.940" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3309" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="505" CreationDate="2017-01-03T12:30:28.930" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got a full frame i3 with a glass printing surface, and an Anet A8 with an aluminium surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to my optical thermometer there is a 15 to 20&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C temperature loss between the bed sensor and the glass surface at 65&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C, which is how hot I have to run the i3 to get adhesion with PLA.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have not tried printing ABS yet on either printer, but I cannot see getting the glass surface temperature high enough to give good adhesion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I use dilute PVA adhesive as on both surfaces, but it does not adhere well to the aluminium.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5483" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-04-16T12:05:18.200" LastActivityDate="2019-04-16T12:05:18.200" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="3310" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-01-03T19:32:29.657" Score="0" ViewCount="1244" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am running a MakerBot Replicator 2. During the print, the printer just stops executing and I am running out of ways to troubleshoot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After restarting, I can load and extrude filament.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have replaced the SD card, and even borrowed one from another working replicator, and the freeze still occurs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Likewise, I've regenerated the x3g file, and that did not work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The panel does not freeze, I can cancel the print during the freeze.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've made sure Z pause is off. It tends freezes randomly on the first layer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In general, it looks as though the print is &quot;in progress&quot; but not making progress (Timer ticks up, % completed does not)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone have any idea as to what could be causing the problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5491" LastActivityDate="2017-01-05T14:26:02.563" Title="Makerbot Replicator 2 Halts during print" Tags="|makerbot|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3311" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3310" CreationDate="2017-01-03T20:44:13.443" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Seems like others have had similar issues: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/groups/engineering/topic:3849&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.thingiverse.com/groups/engineering/topic:3849&lt;/a&gt;. Their issue was a bit more mechanical than firmware, though. I hope this helps!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might also want to check the software you're using to slice the file. Sometimes the software doesn't slice the file properly, which causes problems mid-print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5493" LastActivityDate="2017-01-03T20:44:13.443" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3312" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3412" CreationDate="2017-01-03T21:21:46.437" Score="1" ViewCount="847" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a derivative of the P3Steel v4, which is not the Irobri design but another version (I'm not entirely sure which), from Poland: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Frame-Prusa-I3-P3Steel-v4-0-RODS-/182361720200?&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Frame Prusa I3 P3Steel v4.0 +RODS&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have assembled the frame, following this guide, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.kitprinter3d.com/downloads/manual_p3steel_xl.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;manual_p3steel_xl&lt;/a&gt;, only to be left with one part, which is the long thin rod, which has a small hole, only in one end (the hole is marked by the big arrow in the image below):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0J40Z.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0J40Z.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;P3Steel v.4 frame parts&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This part obviously goes into the slots at the bottom of the Z axis arms, as shown by the curved arrows.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Which way around does the part go? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Should the small hole be on the left or the right hand side, when looking at the printer from the front?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Also, what exactly is the hole for? Is it just for a zip tie, and to be used to keep the cables (maybe from the heated bed (power and thermistor)) tidy?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have looked at a number of other photos and videos for the P3Steel frame, and none of them clarify which way around, or how, the rod should be fitted. The bar is either omitted completely, or the image is not clear enough to show the correct orientation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.kitprinter3d.com/downloads/manual_p3steel_xl.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;guide&lt;/a&gt; does not show this part being used, although it clearly shows the slots for it in the Z axis arms, in a number of the pictures, such as here:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bQRzh.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bQRzh.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Screenshot of assembly guide showing slots for metal bar&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4762" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2017-02-01T15:11:55.290" LastActivityDate="2017-02-01T15:11:55.290" Title="Orientation of long thin rod on P3Steel v4" Tags="|printer-building|p3steel|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3313" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3291" CreationDate="2017-01-04T07:46:29.847" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Try using an adhesive before you print. This could be &lt;a href=&quot;http://airwolf3d.com/shop/wolfbite-prevents-3d-printed-parts-from-warping&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://airwolf3d.com/shop/wolfbite-prevents-3d-printed-parts-from-warping&lt;/a&gt; ... What is the temperature of the room you are printing in like?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5499" LastActivityDate="2017-01-04T07:46:29.847" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3314" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-01-04T10:58:42.497" Score="8" ViewCount="1685" Body="&lt;p&gt;In order to find out why my printer sometimes skips Y-steps (always in the same direction) only in Ultimaker Cura, I am digging into the G-code to understand the problem better. However, thousands of lines of G-code are hard to analyze. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am using a Mk2 heatbed with a glass sheet, and a NEMA17 motor in a P3Steel Toolson Edition printer. The axis feels reasonably easygoing in both directions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Reducing the acceleration to 4000 did not get rid of the problem completely - it might have relieved the issue, though. I didn't do quantifiable tests, sorry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any other obvious things I might have missed? I know the acceleration might still be rather high, but since it works with Slic3r easily I would like to take advantage of some features in Ultimaker Cura with this printing speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="168" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-01-23T09:09:21.483" LastActivityDate="2021-05-24T15:20:13.560" Title="Skipping Y-steps, only when using Ultimaker Cura" Tags="|slicing|ultimaker-cura|slic3r|p3steel|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="3315" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-01-04T11:12:29.640" Score="3" ViewCount="1656" Body="&lt;p&gt;While looking into G-code I was wondering why Cura inserts G0 commands in between G1 commands every other line like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;G1 F2400 X144.612 Y130.187 E1652.56358&#xA;G0 F6000 X144.612 Y129.621&#xA;G1 F2400 X72.905 Y57.914 E1654.16570&#xA;G0 F6000 X73.471 Y57.914&#xA;G1 F2400 X144.612 Y129.056 E1655.75518&#xA;G0 F6000 X144.612 Y128.490&#xA;G1 F2400 X74.036 Y57.914 E1657.33203&#xA;G0 F6000 X74.602 Y57.914&#xA;G1 F2400 X144.612 Y127.924 E1658.89623&#xA;G0 F6000 X144.612 Y127.359&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems like it wants to move to a slightly offset starting position for the next extrusion. I dont understand why, though. It wants to have touching lines as a result, doesn't it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do see this making sense in a fill situation, - this section is called 'type: skin'. How does slic3r get away doing infill without this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Am I correct to read slic3r gcode correctly to use G1 instead of G0 commands for this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="168" LastActivityDate="2017-01-04T12:32:53.440" Title="Why does Cura insert G0 commands between G1 commands while Slic3r doesn't?" Tags="|slicing|ultimaker-cura|slic3r|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3316" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3315" CreationDate="2017-01-04T12:32:53.440" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Formally, G0 is a rapid move and G1 is a coordinated move. A G1 will cause the printhead to move in a straight line from the begin to the end position, whereas a G0 allows the printhead to move in any curve, so long as it ends up in the target position. Because of acceleration and deceleration constraints, it can sometimes be faster to move in a curve rather than a straight line.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I don't think any actually firmware implements this, and a G0 behaves in the exact same way as a G1.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What the piece of G-code you posted is doing is creating a solid infill, which consists of a bunch of parallel lines, each slightly offset from the next:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AoKAc.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AoKAc.png&quot; alt=&quot;Section of G-code render, showing parallel lines of solid inflil.&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It makes sense that no material is extruded when it moves from one line to the other, as otherwise too much material would get deposited at the edge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastActivityDate="2017-01-04T12:32:53.440" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3317" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3283" CreationDate="2017-01-04T14:39:24.180" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You definitely need to get rid of the self-intersecting meshes in order to be able to 3D print your object. I would personally recommend you try &lt;a href=&quot;https://makeprintable.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;MakePrintable&lt;/a&gt;:  automatically clean these type of meshes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Makeprintable is a cloud service (your model is uploaded to their servers and processed there) currently in beta. You need to sign up but it is free (and they state that they will keep it free).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5504" LastEditorUserId="2146" LastEditDate="2017-01-04T19:09:47.393" LastActivityDate="2017-01-04T19:09:47.393" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3318" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3310" CreationDate="2017-01-04T19:51:14.577" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;After removing the front panel and the bottom protector plate (the one that protects the controller board) and firmly pressing every connector, the issue corrected itself. It seems that something was loose, and that causes the freeze behavior. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5491" LastActivityDate="2017-01-04T19:51:14.577" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3319" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-01-04T20:51:48.140" Score="1" ViewCount="478" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've recently completed assembly of an AnyCubic Prusa clone.  It's working, but having some issues.  My prime concern at this point is the LCD display.  It occasionally becomes &quot;corrupted&quot; for want of a better term (see image) and no longer responds to the control.  It's done this unattended in the middle of a print attempt, which means I can't pause it to remove the imminently dripping filament from the leaking extruder (another issue I'm dealing with).&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/A48NC.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/A48NC.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;corrupted display&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So three questions I guess...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this a typical problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What's the likely culprit (main board, display, firmware)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How to fix it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm working with AnyCubic's tech support, such as it is, and wondering if I need to push them for replacement hardware.&#xA;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5510" LastActivityDate="2017-01-04T20:56:03.367" Title="Display crashed/corrupted on AnyCubic Prusa I3 clone" Tags="|prusa-i3|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3320" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3319" CreationDate="2017-01-04T20:56:03.367" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Issues like this are often caused by the length of the ribbon cable connecting to display to the board, or by its vicinity to other wires. Try routing the ribbon cable away from other wires, and use a shorter one if possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastActivityDate="2017-01-04T20:56:03.367" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3321" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3310" CreationDate="2017-01-04T21:13:51.970" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a few options. First your board could be overheating etc. That is harder to verify without some overpriced replacements. So to start lets take everything apart (photo and labeling is Strongly recommended). Then simply put it back together. Hopefully it is just a loose connection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2146" LastActivityDate="2017-01-04T21:13:51.970" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3322" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-01-04T21:37:25.970" Score="1" ViewCount="305" Body="&lt;p&gt;Another thing I'm seeing with my new build.&#xA;Late in a small print, the unit appears to perform operations &quot;out of order&quot; occasionally.  Here's a picture where it's running a layer across the model.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hGIJk.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hGIJk.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These &quot;skips&quot; can start in the middle of a line.  It always comes back and fills them in before starting the next layer - more or less accurately.  But from my very limited understanding of gcode, it doesn't seem like this should happen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When watching the print closely, I'll occasionally see small glitches, where the head jogs very slightly as it runs a line across.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This was sliced with Cura - I'm going to try a different slicer and see if I get anything similar.&#xA;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5510" LastActivityDate="2017-05-02T21:22:57.327" Title="Out of order operations on AnyCubic Prusa-I3 clone" Tags="|print-quality|prusa-i3|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3323" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3322" CreationDate="2017-01-04T22:40:59.877" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is just your slicer doing this. If you inspect the G-code file, you will see that the printer is faithfully doing what the slicer told it to. Most slicers use a fairly simple heuristic for determining the order in which lines are processed, which sometimes comes up with sub-optimal solutions like these.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastActivityDate="2017-01-04T22:40:59.877" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3324" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3421" CreationDate="2017-01-05T02:22:18.017" Score="13" ViewCount="4116" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm new to 3d printing, so I might be missing something obvious. If so, please let me know. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I printed my model successfully yesterday, but today I'm trying to print the same model and the first layer refuses to adhere, which means at best several layers after that are messed up if it manages to recover, but usually it just means I have to cancel and start again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It will print one horizontal line (across the x axis), then when it tries to vertical line (across the y axis) the horizontal line doesn't adhere and gets dragged along with the print head and everything is screwed up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've tried leveling the bed over and over again. (I use a sheet of paper and try to slip it between the bed and printhead. I adjust the bed so that I feel a bit of resistance as I push and pull the paper under the printhead.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've tried increasing the preheat on the printhead and on the bed. I'm using black PLA 1.75mm that says it has a print temp of 205-225. I've tried printing at 205, 210, 215, 220, and 225. I've tried a bed temp of 50, 55, 60, 65, and 70.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've tried setting the print speed multiplier to 0.5 to give it time to adhere, but no changes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to print something a wireframe cube that is at the extent of my printable size, so I don't know of a way to use a raft or a brim to help adhesion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is what my model looks like:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AkcFA.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AkcFA.png&quot; alt=&quot;my wifeframe-ish partial cube model&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I printed a good one yesterday, here is what the first two lines looked like:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ET1Is.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ET1Is.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;good first layer&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I print today, even after multiple attempts to level the bed, this is what the first layer tends to look like:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/e7mcL.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/e7mcL.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm using a Monoprice 15365. I created my model in SketchUp, then exported as STL, which I imported into Cura 2.3.1. Then I used Cura to export a gcode file to an SD card. I put the SD card into my 3d printer and printed from there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any advice is welcome. I don't know if the problems I'm having are because the bed is too low or too high or too hot or too cold or if the printhead is too hot or too cold... nothing I've tried seems to change the results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5446" LastEditorUserId="5446" LastEditDate="2017-01-05T04:45:01.050" LastActivityDate="2017-01-18T06:33:31.767" Title="Can't get print to stick, no matter what I try" Tags="|build-plate|adhesion|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3325" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3324" CreationDate="2017-01-05T08:16:18.510" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your nozzle is clearly too far from the bed. The plastic should be squashed down slightly. Some firmwares have an option where you can adjust the height of the nozzle &quot;live&quot; during the first layer, in Marlin this is called &quot;babystepping&quot;. This can be very useful because you can get the height correct without having to mess with the physical leveling of the bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastActivityDate="2017-01-05T08:16:18.510" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3326" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3324" CreationDate="2017-01-05T08:18:16.443" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I find 60-65 for bed. You are COOKING your pla. 175-200 unless you are a fast / expert. That said get rid of the tap. Use a Elmer's glue stick. Also set first layer speed to 30% and do like 130% material for layer 1. Let us know what happens!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Agree with Tom. Likely your too high up. I take a piece of paper and try to get the distance just so when moving the paper between the nozzles and the bed it has some resistance but not too much. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2146" LastEditorUserId="2146" LastEditDate="2017-01-05T20:23:12.453" LastActivityDate="2017-01-05T20:23:12.453" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3327" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3324" CreationDate="2017-01-05T12:21:19.693" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your photo has shadows which seem to suggest that your tape layer has some wrinkles.  That won't help.  Try removing that tape and laying down the fabulous blue painter's tape.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you read any dedicated forum  for plastic extruder printers, you'll find plenty of claims that X or Y is the best way to guarantee adhesion.  Some folks swear by glass+gluestick, others by PEI sheet, and so on.  The only general consensus is that use of a brim or a raft is highly recommended so as to increase the total contact area.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2191" LastActivityDate="2017-01-05T12:21:19.693" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3328" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3324" CreationDate="2017-01-05T13:32:30.303" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been struggling to work out what is wrong with the process where you claim to be leveling the bed OK (and the print is starting in mid air). Now I remember I had exactly the same problem with my first prints.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think you are leveling OK, but getting some binding in the Z-axis. As the head jumps to start printing, it goes up, then down (but not as far due to some mechanical problem). So although your Z-endstop is aligned with the bed, after finding the zero, the head is not reliably able to move and return to zero.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check these questions for more detailed ideas about how to fix this:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/3065&quot;&gt;Z-axis steppers and bed alignment problems&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/729&quot;&gt;z-axis hard to move in some areas - what could be faults, how to improve?&lt;/a&gt;   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can try and confirm my diagnosis by zeroing, them moving Z-position up 2/3 of the full travel, and back down. See if it is still at the position where you leveled it to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it is not this, I suspect your Z-endstop may be giving unreliable results. Check the microswitch is securely mounted. I ended up replacing mine with an optical sensor, and have seen huge improvements in repetability (&amp;lt;0.1mm rather than around rms 0.3mm from zero to zero)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4927" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T13:00:58.447" LastActivityDate="2017-01-05T13:32:30.303" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3330" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3310" CreationDate="2017-01-05T14:26:02.563" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;By &quot;stops executing&quot; do you mean that the extruder stops extruding but continues to run through the motions? or does the entire machine lock up?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your extruder stops depositing plastic, then I would suggest checking your settings. Specifically retraction distance, filament diameter (compered with your actual filament diameter)  and temperatures. Sometimes bumping up the extruder temp 5 degrees can fix this issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If all that's ok, then I'd suggest possibly swapping your extruder nozzle, if it has a bur inside from manufacturing then this could be causing too much pressure and the nozzle gets clogged.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;IF however the extruder gantry freezes up and the z-axis keeps pulling away, I'd suggest calling maker bot directly as this would be more of a serious hardware issue, likely covered under warranty.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5518" LastActivityDate="2017-01-05T14:26:02.563" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3331" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3185" CreationDate="2017-01-05T17:51:22.300" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've tried to reduce the &quot;Extrusion multiplier&quot; from 1 to 0.95, but that caused gaps. Now I've minimized the clicking by setting the Slic3r option &quot;Infill before perimeters&quot; on the &quot;Print Settings &gt; Infill&quot; page.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5223" LastActivityDate="2017-01-05T17:51:22.300" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3332" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3416" CreationDate="2017-01-05T18:57:51.187" Score="1" ViewCount="655" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here is the X-axis of the P3Steel:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xuYOq.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xuYOq.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;X-axis arm of P3Steel&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The X-axis idler end of a P3Steel printer, employs an 8 mm diameter rod for the axle on which a 608zz bearing is mounted for the GT2 belt. This 8 mm rod is approximately 20 - 24 mm in length, with grooves at either end, for circlips.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A photo of the assembled idler, with the rod and circlips highlighted:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1qJ06.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1qJ06.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;X-axis idler end&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is: Does this part need to be custom made?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The short rod didn't come with the frame kit that I purchased (nor was it listed in the parts list, or shown in the photo of the parts - so it not as if it was omitted with my order). I have searched on eBay for it, using various search terms, and I am unable to find one. As I was not trained in mechanical engineering, I am not sure if this part has a special name, or is it just called a &amp;quot;smooth rod, with grooved ends&amp;quot;? I have also done a fair amount of googling, and although I have found some people who have constructed this particular frame, no one makes mention of this axle, nor any difficulties in sourcing it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have contacted the supplier of the frame, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Frame-Prusa-I3-P3Steel-v4-0-RODS-/182361720200?&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Frame Prusa I3 P3Steel v4.0 +RODS&lt;/a&gt;, and I am awaiting a reply.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This missing part is holding up my build progress - I already have the 608zz bearing and circlips.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Additional images&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This image shows the &amp;quot;exploded view&amp;quot; and the 8mm rod can be clearly seen:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JPjQR.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JPjQR.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Exploded view of the parts of X-axis idler&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are images of the assembled idler, showing the bearing inside -&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Front view:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/c63fV.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/c63fV.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Front view&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Side view:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2Nggu.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2Nggu.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Side view&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This images are a little blurry, as they are screen shots taken from the video, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iDtDiW0kTSc&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;I3 Steel CORDOBESA con extrusor/with extruder&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4762" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:29:41.667" LastActivityDate="2017-06-03T03:33:16.790" Title="Is the 8mm x 20mm bearing axle for the X-axis idler (of a P3Steel) a custom part?" Tags="|printer-building|p3steel|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3333" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3332" CreationDate="2017-01-05T19:36:34.127" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Oh fascinating. It took me a while to figure out what exactly that is. It is a smooth rod used as the idler for the X belt. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I would do is get a bearing / wheel. Take a thicker screw, nut and washer. Put the idler / bearing / wheel into the slot, then fit the screw / nut. Should work without any issue!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said they likely had some sort of special fitting etc. Doesn't matter so long as the belt can move without wearing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:157303&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;This Thingiverse&lt;/a&gt; does exactly what I am thinking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/x7BkI.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/x7BkI.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;bolt example&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you have a low profile need due to the interesting design I came across &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.belmetric.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&amp;amp;products_id=4030&amp;amp;cPath=3_569_718&amp;amp;gclid=CM6Pifm5rtECFVK5wAodMq8HLg&amp;amp;zenid=9o5khnodisqvndhvoejl6b6t40&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt;. a TNF8 - Nut Sert - Flanged/Ribbed.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Z4gAg.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Z4gAg.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or you may just need a standard low profile nut. Not like you need it to do more than hold it in..&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/szyvM.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/szyvM.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2146" LastEditorUserId="2146" LastEditDate="2017-01-06T21:25:09.537" LastActivityDate="2017-01-06T21:25:09.537" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3334" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3324" CreationDate="2017-01-05T22:03:38.217" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can use the masking tape as base, however the height of nozzle is higher than required. Check that your fist layer height is 70% lower than your nozzle size. In my opinion this can be the step layer minus 0.05, for example layer height is 0.2, then my first layer is 0.15, this makes that the material squizes a little more. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this is not possible you might change the offset of printing level until you reach the height required.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Manually you can add some layers of masking tape to minimize the overgap within the nozzle and bed. (some times I do this, due mi home 3D printer gets out of calibration on changing nozzles)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For PLA i´m using 210°C because using 190 and 200 makes some balls like your photo. also try to use a lower speed like 90 or 80 % to allow a good melting inside the heater.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4454" LastActivityDate="2017-01-05T22:03:38.217" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3335" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3202" CreationDate="2017-01-06T00:17:14.967" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The answer depends a bit on the type of PLA (supplier of specific filament), type of machine, type of build platform, size of model and ambient temperature. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PLA has less issues with warping compared to ABS or Nylon, but &lt;em&gt;can&lt;/em&gt; still warp depending on everything mentioned. My usual first try to minimize warping is to heat the bed. 60 - 70&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C works well but I'll also go up to 100 depending on a variety of factors. If still not having any luck, generally on larger parts I try adding a raft. If I STILL have issues after that I'll add 'helper disks' (small quarter dollar sized disks) around the part to increase the surface area of the raft. The disks will add more material but I have about a 99&amp;nbsp;% success rate using these.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If a part is going to take more than about 3 hours and I can't have any warping at all, I always use a heated build plate and place the discs all the way around the part. Generally will add about a hour or more, but well worth the extra time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5518" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-07-03T04:23:36.693" LastActivityDate="2019-07-03T04:23:36.693" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="3336" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1099" CreationDate="2017-01-06T00:24:15.257" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've heard of a few issues like this, always relating to hardware problems. If you feel comfortable opening up the hardware on your machine, confirm that all of your connections are firmly connected to your printers Circuit Cards. The issues i've dealt with I determined came from a loose connection and the gantry running would shake the connections enough to cause a loss of signal. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5518" LastActivityDate="2017-01-06T00:24:15.257" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3338" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-01-06T10:27:13.293" Score="2" ViewCount="253" Body="&lt;p&gt;My Ultimaker 1 with a heated bed doesn't print good first layer lines at all. The single lines keep detaching from the printbed, no matter what nozzle or bed temperature or the height of printhead from printbed. I cleaned the printbed thouroughly, too. It worked a while ago, I don't know what I am doing wrong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Data:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ultimaker 1 with Heated Printbed (Glass)&#xA;PLA @ 200°/60°&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is how it looks like after removing a print (one and a half layers) from the printbed.&#xA;It is quite thick though.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/l64Av.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/l64Av.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4285" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2019-08-31T08:21:35.847" LastActivityDate="2019-08-31T08:21:35.847" Title="First layer lines don't stick at all" Tags="|print-quality|ultimaker-original|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2017-01-07T17:01:49.190" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3339" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11" CreationDate="2017-01-06T16:56:19.910" Score="-3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I suggest using XTC-3D since your prints are small also you can add some UVO pigments in. It's difficult to use in large prints because has small working time. Anyway here is a print I did for a friend: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Rj1Ep.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Example print&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Rj1Ep.png&quot; alt=&quot;Example print&quot; title=&quot;Example print&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://niume.com/post/208913&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;This now dead link&lt;/a&gt; shows more images and say how it is done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5536" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-07-04T09:50:02.230" LastActivityDate="2018-07-04T09:50:02.230" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="3340" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3338" CreationDate="2017-01-06T17:40:17.733" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;This looks a bit like your build plate isn't level. I'd suggest re-leveling using feeler gauges.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5518" LastActivityDate="2017-01-06T17:40:17.733" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3341" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3304" CreationDate="2017-01-06T18:10:27.000" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Three factors that will impact the 'sharpness' of corners, first is your extruder speed, second is retraction rate and third is nozzle diameter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By slowing down your extruder will be able to track the features of your model better. I generally try to print with extruder speeds of ~10mm/s which gives fairly good results. The nozzle diameter will be the most extreme limiting condition on how sharp you can get your corners. This I think is likely your issue. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Retraction rate &lt;em&gt;could&lt;/em&gt; have an effect on the corner sharpness. I don't think that's the problem you're experiencing but worth mentioning. Depending on the specific geometry if your nozzle stops at a corner while it raises in Z if your retraction is too low additional filament can ooze out making the corners appear more rounded.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Typically a nozzle diameters are about 0.4mm which is pretty sharp, however if you have something larger that could effect it as well. Again, not your specific issue but something to keep in mind for future builds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5518" LastActivityDate="2017-01-06T18:10:27.000" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3342" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3160" CreationDate="2017-01-06T18:14:45.947" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not very likely unfortunately.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;M3D nozzle diameter is too wide to be able to print something that would print reliably, not to mention any FDM machine won't have the precision to build good threads. even 0.05mm layer heights won't run very well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've tried on a Form1 (SLA style printer) and even that set at it's max resolution wasn't able to print clean threads. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5518" LastActivityDate="2017-01-06T18:14:45.947" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3343" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3265" CreationDate="2017-01-06T18:23:30.543" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd suggest creating a hollow tube with ~1 to 1.5&amp;nbsp;mm walls. Then to increase the strength design your own internal structure rather than relying on the slicer to fill the part. This takes longer to model but you can design the strength of your part much better. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Something like this &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/guuNV.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/guuNV.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Cross Section&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you were to then print this with 60&amp;nbsp;% infill you'll have the strength and also use less material. If you happen to know specifically how your part would be loaded, you could then change the dimensions on that internal cross structure to take the loads better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5518" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-08-15T09:59:29.170" LastActivityDate="2018-08-15T09:59:29.170" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="3344" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-01-06T18:57:51.237" Score="0" ViewCount="1942" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does anybody have an overview of what things should be calibrated (and in what order) for a certain 3d printer or after changing the printing material?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I only know about:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;calibrating the extruder steps per mm, e.g. &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YUPfBJz3I6Y&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Tom's youtube tutorial&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;determining the print temperature, e.g. &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FSOPsRiiOZk&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;RepRap Neo's youtube tutorial&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;calibrating the extrusion multiplier (for each different filament), e.g. &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cnjE5udkNEA&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;RepRap 101's youtube tutorial&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How to calibrate/determine the maximum speeds or accelerations?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5223" LastEditorUserId="8052" LastEditDate="2017-08-23T16:15:28.570" LastActivityDate="2017-08-23T16:15:28.570" Title="Calibrating steps/order" Tags="|calibration|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3345" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3344" CreationDate="2017-01-06T19:02:05.303" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Recalibrating your machine for the new filament diameter is a good idea. Filament diameters vary slightly between manufacturers. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5518" LastEditorUserId="5518" LastEditDate="2017-01-06T20:02:52.833" LastActivityDate="2017-01-06T20:02:52.833" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3346" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3418" CreationDate="2017-01-06T19:24:53.300" Score="3" ViewCount="391" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm experiencing an issue with my Makerbot Replicator 2X (2000+ hours printing). The dimensions of my final part are smaller than what is initially modeled. My parts have been coming out roughly 0.3mm smaller than what is initially modeled. Is this a common issue or does this sound more like I may have a hardware issue?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've confirmed that all my belts are tensioned properly and lubricated correctly. I haven't seen a calibration step that would correct for this issue short of manually scaling my parts to correct for the offset. The offset appears to only occur in the XY axis, never seems to happen in Z though&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Example: &#xA;In the part modeled I had the width designed to be 35 mm (face to face, parallel walls). It doesn't seem to matter what size of part I have the final dimensions always seem to be off by about the same amount.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3hOvd.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3hOvd.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;35mm width modeled&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5518" LastEditorUserId="5518" LastEditDate="2017-01-16T14:18:10.937" LastActivityDate="2017-01-17T23:37:43.783" Title="Dimensions off on final part" Tags="|makerbot|calibration|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3347" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3344" CreationDate="2017-01-06T21:06:41.850" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;How to Calibrate. Oh man that is a good 2-3 page long blog post.. So I will try to give you the bullet point section. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;High level&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mechanical &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Firmware &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Software&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;repeat&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mechanical&#xA;Level everything. Bed. The X axis. Make sure there is no binding, etc. Also make sure the surface you are on is flat before leveling the printer by it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Firmware&#xA;Get that printer moving. This is where you do you Steps per MM. I like &lt;a href=&quot;http://reprap.org/wiki/Triffid_Hunter&amp;#39;s_Calibration_Guide&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Triffids guide&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now is when you go into the software and start setting your slicer settings. This includes your filament measurements etc. You should go back 2-3 times between this step and the previous to make sure your extruding EXACTLY what you think you are. As mentioned by others filament calculation is hard. You need to measure across a lot of material. Take the averages. You will never get it perfect as the plastic is never perfect. Picking a solid supplier is a factor here too. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you think you have that all working. Repeat. Start at step one. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After your done looping though you will start with the slicer calibrations. Which is the meat of your question. You will take collections like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:533472&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this one&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:52946&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this one&lt;/a&gt; and tweak settings until you can pass each test. Do your tests in this order&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1637&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;single wall test&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:271736&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;hollow cube&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2064&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;solid cube&lt;/a&gt; Here is a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:24238&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Bonus solid cube&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:12925&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;bridging test&lt;/a&gt; (honestly I rarely do this one..) &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:342198&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;part fitting test&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now for testing when switching material. Honestly its best to start with their settings, and tweak them. I like to have a spread sheet of xy speed, Z lift, temps. Massage it till you are happy. The firmware settings like jerk and acceleration will be less of a factor between materials. Get it perfect once and don't touch it (till you decide it is not perfect).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will be testing the new material with the same STLs as I mentioned in the precious section. You also might want to look into Simplify 3d (no affiliation) if you get really into it. Also SAVE THE SETTINGS. Nothing sucks more then losing all this work and having to recreate these profiles for materials. Do not trust slic3r to back them up, or to not randomly delete them. Hard lesson there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Far as max speeds and accelleration..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Max speed will really be a function of how fast can you hear up plastic. If you have a e3d with Volcano mod you can really crank the speed up. So you go to the point where your extruder just cannot hit target temps AND you are unable to print solid infill. Far as acceleration and jerk. When you knock your extruder causing your print to shift, then you know it is accelerating / jerking too hard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Best of luck! Let me know if I can clear up a section for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2146" LastEditorUserId="2146" LastEditDate="2017-01-06T23:16:30.397" LastActivityDate="2017-01-06T23:16:30.397" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3350" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-01-07T14:21:16.837" Score="5" ViewCount="3788" Body="&lt;p&gt;It seems that when filament throughput is increased (by increasing movement speed or extrusion width/height), printing temperature also has to be increased to compensate, because the filament will have less time to spend in the melting zone. That much seems clear from practical experience. But I have two questions (or to be more precise, one question on two levels):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Is there a good rule of thumb for this, to help people calibrate their settings?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;How much do we know about the formula governing this behavior? Can we calculate the required hotend temperature &lt;em&gt;precisely&lt;/em&gt; based on the increased throughput?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For anyone who has studied physics / thermodynamics, this is probably simple stuff. But has the work been done for 3D printing specifically, in a way that is practically applicable?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I share the following train of thought to start off with. Let me know if I make any errors in reasoning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Presumably, every material has an optimal printing temperature just above its melting point.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;But the thermistor doesn't read filament temperature. It reads the heat block temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Below a certain throughput, the temperature of the filament will have time to equalize with the temperature of the heat block before it leaves the nozzle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;For those slow speeds, heat block temperature should be set exactly to the material's optimal printing temperature.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;For greater speeds, however, heat block temperature will always have to be higher than the mark, because the filament doesn't have time to equalize.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;At that point, it becomes a balancing act. Find the best heat block temperature (°C) given a rate of throughput (mm³/s), the optimal printing temperature for a given material (°C), the volume of the melting zone (mm³) and &lt;em&gt;&amp;lt; some other property of the material &gt;&lt;/em&gt;, which determines how fast it heats up. I don't know what that last property is, nor can I come up with the proper unit. The material probably approaches the temperature of the environment asymptotically. This is where thermodynamics comes in, I guess.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Theoretically, running filament also cools down the heat block, but we can ignore this. If this effect is significant at all (is it?), this is already compensated for by the PID controller.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm almost certainly missing some key insights. I'm curious to know what work has been done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1998" LastEditorUserId="1998" LastEditDate="2017-01-07T19:31:58.817" LastActivityDate="2021-02-08T21:34:09.393" Title="Increasing hotend temperature to compensate for increased filament throughput" Tags="|filament|calibration|hotend|heat-management|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3351" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3355" CreationDate="2017-01-07T17:25:53.840" Score="1" ViewCount="3269" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought an Anet A8 over christmas. When I bought my printer from Gearbest, I also bought the inductive sensor that they &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.gearbest.com/3d-printer-parts/pp_591321.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;sell&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It doesn't seem to work, and I think it might be broken. However, I have no idea how I can test if it is broken. This is what the wiring &lt;a href=&quot;http://rotjes.bangblog.eu/reddit/DSC_0112.JPG&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;looks&lt;/a&gt; like and how it's connected to the &lt;a href=&quot;http://rotjes.bangblog.eu/reddit/DSC_0113.JPG&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;board&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure if I need to modify the wiring in order to hook it up to the A8's motherboard. I have no idea what the pinout is on the A8's mobo, and it's not indicated either. Most guides deal with using RAMPS when it comes to installing such a sensor. I'd like to know how to connect this to my board, if possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The printer works fine otherwise, so I don't think the board is broken or anything. For now I've resumed using the normal endstop, but I would like to enable bed levelling by installing this sensor. (or a different one if necessary)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do I get this working?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4903" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2018-07-08T11:46:00.580" LastActivityDate="2018-07-08T11:46:00.580" Title="Connecting an inductive sensor to the Anet A8" Tags="|electronics|anet-a8|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3352" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3350" CreationDate="2017-01-07T20:40:48.343" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I see an answer not a question. It's a balancing act and there is no predefined formula. Trial and error. Keep a spread sheet. I'll dwell on this a bit.. but as someone who did speed sprinting there's really nothing else to be said other than buy an e3d and the volcano upgrade. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will calibrate one at a time. Thin wall. Then find solid infill is the true thermal barrier. Then sparse. You will tweak with layerheights. Get thicker nozzles 0.8+. It's a game of spinning plates. Each change will wack out another. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Last you will get to where I did. You move so fast 5 layers down your print is still molten and moving. Especially on small parts. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2146" LastActivityDate="2017-01-07T20:40:48.343" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3353" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3354" CreationDate="2017-01-07T21:09:20.083" Score="6" ViewCount="1579" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to calculate the amount of steps to turn the motor to have 1 mm of the filament.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did the following (using approximate values):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The gear on the outside of the teeth as a diameter of 11mm.&#xA;Therefore the circumference is 34.56mm. Divided into one degree i get 0.096mm / degree. The stepper does 1.8 degree per step which results in 0.1728mm per step.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To get 1mm of filament pushed into the extruder I will have to do 5.787 steps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The same extruder is in a Geeetech i3. The firmware there is configured to do 93 steps per millimeter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't have any experience in working with stepper motors but in theory, this would be my approach with a huge difference to an existing firmware.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Where is my mistake?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5551" LastActivityDate="2017-01-07T22:43:30.123" Title="Calculating extruder motor steps for 1 mm" Tags="|filament|extruder|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3354" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3353" CreationDate="2017-01-07T22:43:30.123" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Microstepping. Your board likely has 16x microstepping, so that each step is divided up into 16 parts. Your 5.787 figure, when multiplied by 16, comes out to 92.6 steps/mm - matching the value in your firmware.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastActivityDate="2017-01-07T22:43:30.123" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3355" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3351" CreationDate="2017-01-07T23:02:55.660" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am not entirely familiar with the ANET A8 electronics, but it's very unlikely it's any different from how any other mainboard works, so any instructions that work for RAMPS should work for your board as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The sensor you linked to has an operating voltage range of &amp;quot;6V to 36V&amp;quot;. However, the endstop connectors (on any mainboard I've come across) only provide 5V - not enough for the sensor to work. You could verify that this is also the case for your ANET board with a multimeter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Assuming the colour coding is standard) you'll need to connect the black wire to GND, the red wire to 12V, and the yellow wire &lt;strong&gt;through a diode&lt;/strong&gt; to the signal pin of the endstop connector. The anode of the diode should connect to the signal pin and the cathode to the wire coming from the sensor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The diode is required, because otherwise the 12V signal from the sensor will damage your electronics, which can only accept 5V. Any ordinary diode will do (for instance 1N4148). You should enable endstop pullups in your firmware when using this method (though if your board already has physical pullups this is not necessary but won't hurt either).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that if the sensor is inductive, it will also need an appropriate (metal) surface to trigger off. Unfortunately, it is not clear from the product description what type of sensor you have bought, and (amusingly) gearbest doesn't know either:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Question:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hello, is this Sensor capazitiv or induktiv? Thank you verry much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Reply:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is an auto leveling sensor for 3D printers&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:29:41.667" LastActivityDate="2017-01-07T23:02:55.660" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3356" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3359" CreationDate="2017-01-08T18:50:41.707" Score="5" ViewCount="4718" Body="&lt;p&gt;I received a roll of Black filament as a present, and struggled to print with it, experiencing extreme under-extrusion (and slippage of the hobbed gear). Higher temperatures seemed to work better, particularly in freeing up the extrude rate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The filament is advertised as PLA, but without any temperature recommendations that I can find on the vendor's website (or the amazon listing). Amazon reviews have a fairly wide range of temperatures, but the listing aggregates several colours. There is a suggestion that the filament may be PETG, or ABS.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have tried using acetone, and it dissolves roughly the same as some ABS I have, my PLA shows some weakening but doesn't dissolve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Below about 215°C, extrusion is borderline non-existent. I printed at 225°C with a fan, and it extruded kind of OK, but adhesion was poor. 240° without a fan seems a bit on the hot side (see photo). Even 255°C seems to extrude OK without burning. There is no smell I can observe (but I have a cold). It burns with a small blue flame, and minimal smell (kind of like natural gas).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One factor against it being ABS is that with the bed at 60°C, printing both a benchy and the heat tower below, there was no warping. Bed adhesion remained good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there anything I can do to better identify this filament and decide the best combination of fan/temperature without wasting too much time?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;255° to 225° heat tower, seems different to the ABS i've used:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RuJoM.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RuJoM.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4927" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2018-09-16T12:22:40.217" LastActivityDate="2018-09-16T12:22:40.217" Title="Identifying PLA/PETG or ABS" Tags="|filament|part-identification|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3359" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3356" CreationDate="2017-01-08T21:41:54.427" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is a trick. However I would like to mention that chances are that the random spool you pickup from most stores, especially no name brands, are either completely lying to you about its material or is mixed / cut with cheaper fillers. All about finding a good brand. Course rarely does one actually need pure PLA, a mixed material will often perform as well without you even noticing. Aside from the temp difference. Not to say it is right.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now the trick is this. While I don't advise ever breathing in potentially carcinogenic plastic smoke. You take a lighter. Burn it. If it smells sweet it is PLA. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.digitaltrends.com/cool-tech/abs-vs-pla-3d-printing-materials-comparison/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this link from digital trends&lt;/a&gt; about PLA VS ABS you can see why it has this smell.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The thermoplastic is also more pleasant on the nose, as the sugar-based material smells slightly sweet when heated opposed to the harsh smell often associated with ABS. However, while PLA might seem like a better overall choice at first glance, it features a far lower melting point than ABS.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also not responsible if you burn yourself or your property. At your own risk. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just warming it with lighter might work too. But just burning a small section. It will be real clear. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or you could just drop a bit into aceton and see if it melts. PLA will mostly just look like crud after being treated is aceton. ABS is 100% dissolve. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We see from these forums that PETG does not dissolve via Aceton. So you can test you material. If it does disolve it is ABS. If it smells sweet when burned it is PLA. If it melts at 240 and does not dissolve it is likely PETG.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.soliforum.com/topic/13523/what-dissolves-petg/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Solid forums&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://3dprintboard.com/showthread.php?12182-PETG-solvents&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;3d printboard&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We are a bit lost on a test for PETG. However we do know &lt;a href=&quot;http://airwolf3d.com/2015/12/05/3d-printing-with-petg-tips-and-tricks/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;its melting point&lt;/a&gt;. Which is 240-260c. I would say it is likely you have ABS&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once we know the material we can get to the meat of your question. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Best way to proceed is to start with simple calibration prints. The thin wall. Cube, and part fitting. Once those pass you are good to go. Other than buying simplify3d I do not know of any short cuts. Back when I used slic3r I kept a spread sheet. I would change a temp by 5 degrees and give it a quality score. Repeat with speeds. Far as fan, I would expect that it wont effect much. Maybe need to calibrate your PIDs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you have it dialed in, all you will need to do is calibrate the temp when switching materials. Remember you need to calibrate even between different colors (okay its best to.. I often skip) I usually do the temp adjustments live on the printer. Increase and degrease a few degrees. For me the goal is to have the plastic as cool as possible. That allows for highest quality prints (ie less oozing and such)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2146" LastEditorUserId="2146" LastEditDate="2017-01-12T20:42:58.050" LastActivityDate="2017-01-12T20:42:58.050" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3360" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="365" CreationDate="2017-01-09T00:57:12.920" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The number of 100x could be true in some situations.  I wish I could see the part(s) that they printed to measure this 100x, but that is another story.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looking at their videos they can move the build plate at a maximum speed of 10mm per minute.  You will see the Eiffel tower video where they have to change over to standard speed for flat layers.  It is because the flat layers stop resin flow and can't be printed using continuous printing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Prodways have shown that they can move it at 20mm per minute, but again there are things that are not advertised/mentioned.  To achieve higher speeds you need to make the resins more reactive.  Making resins more reactive means the resins won't last as long in the vat/bottle.  So they expire sooner.  It also means they could harden under normal light conditions so it makes it difficult to work with.  If you look at the Prodways video you will see resin waste on the build plate.  That shows that the projector brightness was set too high.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Gizmo can print between 5 and 25 times faster than a leading brand of SLA printers, also depends on the number of parts and complexity on the build plate.  The decision was made to advertise the build plate moving speed, e.g. 3mm per minute, rather than the number of times faster than anything else, because that is a value that doesn't change with the number of items on the build plate, but it does change depending on the projection area size.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Imagine you just have a single line going upwards then most SLA printers could do it at the same speed.  B9 Creator (bottom up) users have actually shown they can do continuous printing when printing really tiny items with very thin walls, because they don't have suction problems in those situations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now when you add many small objects with small features on the build plate DLP printers will display the full layer in one go where laser based SLA machines need to draw out each part like an FDM machine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Continuous printing does have limitations.  Resin needs to flow from the bottom or you will get resin starvation and cause holes so you might not be able to use it for everything.  You should see it as another tool in your printing toolbox rather than the be all and end all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So after all that, the 100x depends on so many things, you shouldn't get stuck at looking at that number other than knowing it is a way of marketing the printers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5558" LastActivityDate="2017-01-09T00:57:12.920" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3361" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3362" CreationDate="2017-01-09T03:42:51.423" Score="5" ViewCount="1073" Body="&lt;p&gt;The right side of my prints always have the standard ribbing effect given by a bent z rod, however I have replaced the rod and there was no change. Here are pictures of one of my more recent prints:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Sucjy.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Sucjy.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;and the left side of that same print:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/29xDN.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/29xDN.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;As you can see the left is almost unaffected the right is the only side with the error. Anyone have any ideas about this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5559" LastActivityDate="2017-01-09T21:42:32.780" Title="3d prints come up with ribbing on one side" Tags="|print-quality|prusa-i3|z-axis|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3362" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3361" CreationDate="2017-01-09T04:42:01.220" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hmmmm In my experience when a printer has that bad of wobble it is still the Z axis. Your rods might be good, but are the two Z axis the &lt;em&gt;exact&lt;/em&gt; correct distance and equal distance on the printer frame? Imagine that you had one a few millimeters too far out. How might the rods act? Mayhaps, over the course of several layers, they would slowly drift back and forth? Creating a period effect on your print? What do the top of the rods do over time? Do they move a lot if you go from height 0 to 100mm on z?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a few ideas. What happens if you loosen you Z motors so they can move around their mount? I had to do that on my Prusa back in the day. I think for that machine the Belt was actually too tight causing the issue. Current printers are usually better designed so its unlikely that is your issue. Also measure the distance between the top of the rods when the carriage is at 0, and at max. You should see very little variance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it was on both sides I would say it was bad PID calibration. &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/#lines-on-the-side-of-print&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;IE this simplify 3d link&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Though you can see on this forum the fellow &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.3dhubs.com/talk/thread/z-axis-artifacts-wobbling-irregularities-waves-ribbing&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;had a bad coupler.&lt;/a&gt; So still mechanical.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also could be back lash / belt lash.. but unlikely&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2146" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:29:41.667" LastActivityDate="2017-01-09T21:42:32.780" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3363" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3369" CreationDate="2017-01-09T16:06:26.000" Score="5" ViewCount="9128" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've build a 3D printer from sourced parts and mounted the hotend cooler to blow air over the heatsink. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Talking to a friend, he said it's better to reverse the airflow over the heatsink, but couldn't give me an argument other than everywhere he saw it was like this: all coolers are mount to suck the hot air away from the heatsink.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it one way better than the other way ? And if so, why ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5567" LastEditorUserId="5567" LastEditDate="2017-01-13T14:57:19.300" LastActivityDate="2017-01-13T14:57:19.300" Title="Blow vs suck air over hotend's heatsink" Tags="|hotend|cooling|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3364" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3300" CreationDate="2017-01-09T16:14:49.627" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In this case I would like to first recommend replacing your PTFE tube with a better quality product. Unfortunately, the quality:price ratio is as to be expected here. My reasoning:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PTFE has great thermal properties for a polymer, just like ABS. In fact, the &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Glass_transition&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;glass-transition state&lt;/a&gt; begins at relatively the same temperature between the two materials. ABS starts transitioning at &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.matbase.com/material-categories/natural-and-synthetic-polymers/commodity-polymers/material-properties-of-acrylonitrile-butadiene-styrene-general-purpose-gp-abs.html#properties&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;about 105&amp;deg;C&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.matbase.com/material-categories/natural-and-synthetic-polymers/engineering-polymers/material-properties-of-polytetrafluoroethylene-ptfe.html#properties&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;about 127&amp;deg;C&lt;/a&gt; for PTFE.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However PTFE, traditionally, has a much higher &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Melting_point&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;melting point&lt;/a&gt; at about 327&amp;deg;C as opposed to the usual 125&amp;deg; we use in 3D printing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;My Point&lt;/strong&gt;: I think the hardware you currently have has low-quality PTFE.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PTFE can be recycled for re-use in other PTFE products. In recycled PTFE, you can lose a lot of the desired properties in the material (true for any material). This includes both the ideal &quot;friction-less&quot; and thermal resistance we need in 3D Printing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What I think happened:&lt;/strong&gt; The higher print temperatures of ABS transitioned the PTFE into its glass-state. As the throat expands, the path of least resistance in the assembly is towards the extruder motor since the nozzle holds more pressure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;I would not recommend &quot;fixing&quot; this problem with a retainer!&lt;/strong&gt; By forcing the PTFE throat to stay in position, you could potentially force the PTFE to expand in other ways. Most likely resulting in constricting the filament, leading to grinding of filament on the drive gear and clogging of the nozzle. Worst case, you end up with gooey PTFE in your nozzle and/or around your retainer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="98" LastActivityDate="2017-01-09T16:14:49.627" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3365" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3300" CreationDate="2017-01-09T16:15:03.723" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I see, you want to Block the tefflon tube from going Up and Out of the extruder. Yes I see no reason why you would not fid a nut cap. Drill a hole and have it work. There is likely a special nut cap with a pre existing hole in it already but I decided the keywords was asking for bad results on a work computer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only thing I can see happening is you will 1) possibly not have the clearance. 2) have a larger thermal mass.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UG4iP.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UG4iP.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2146" LastActivityDate="2017-01-09T16:15:03.723" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3366" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3367" CreationDate="2017-01-09T16:25:36.013" Score="7" ViewCount="965" Body="&lt;p&gt;In &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/3116/37&quot;&gt;this question&lt;/a&gt; I was told that I should use silver solder to connect the heating element to the power supply.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(I was also told that a ceramic extruder head was the way to go, but I'm working with what I have)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I bought two types of silver solider from Radio Shack: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;96/4 Silver-Bearing Solder, Lead-Free 0.62&quot; diameter.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;62/36/2 Silver-Bearing Solder, 0.15&quot; diameter.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any reason I should use one of these over the other to power the heading element of the J-Head extruder?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2017-05-21T19:17:14.850" LastActivityDate="2019-07-26T13:10:39.887" Title="Silver Solder specifications for hot end heating element" Tags="|extruder|prusa-i3-rework|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3367" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3366" CreationDate="2017-01-09T17:39:43.423" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;The first is not suitable. ASTM96TS Sn96Ag4 has a melting point of 221–229&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C according to &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Solder&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Wikipedia&lt;/a&gt;. Pb96Ag4 would be OK, but that is not lead free so doesn't seem to match your description. &lt;em&gt;Update from comment to explain the letters and numbers: the data comes from wikipedia, the numbers are Tin(Sn) 62%, Pb(Lead) 36%, Ag(Silver) 2%, for example, see below for an electronics solder compound&lt;/em&gt;.    &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sn62Pb36Ag2 is an ordinary expensive electronics solder (but not lead free), with an even lower melting point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You need to find a high temperature silver solder, with a melting point of about 305&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C (which confusingly might be a soft silver solder), for example one of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cupalloys.co.uk/soft-solders/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;these&lt;/a&gt;. Hard silver solders melt at 600&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C, that would be excessive in this application.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The nomenclature 'silver solder' came about before lead-free electronics solder was introduced, since when more alloys containing silver have become popular as general purpose solders.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4927" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-07-26T13:10:39.887" LastActivityDate="2019-07-26T13:10:39.887" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="3368" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3363" CreationDate="2017-01-09T17:46:06.147" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the case of 3D Printing, it's going to be faster to cool the radiator by blowing out the heat from the source.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The idea is that you're trying to get rid of as much heat as possible in the quickest means possible. By blowing away from the radiator, you're allowing the ambient temperature to cool the hot air being blown out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you were to blow the ambient air towards the radiator, the blown air will warm slightly as it is overwhelmed by the heat of the radiator. Even though the ambient air may be cooler, it will take more time to cool off the radiator.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Example of bad airflow, which will take much longer to cool the radiator:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/N6U9u.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/N6U9u.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Example of good airflow, allowing the hot air to be quickly cooled by the ambient temperature of the build space:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RRqeg.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RRqeg.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="98" LastEditorUserId="98" LastEditDate="2017-01-09T17:51:47.373" LastActivityDate="2017-01-09T17:51:47.373" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3369" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3363" CreationDate="2017-01-09T19:39:41.550" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Getting hot air from the radiator is definitely wrong idea because of few reasons:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;hot air can damage your fan (as they are usually not heatproof). Cold air cools the fan&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;cold air is denser so fan can suck more cold air than hot air so cooling is more efficient (fig A)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;in terms of plug of radiator (with dust) it's much better to try to push cold air into plugged fan (fig C) than to suck the air from it (fig B). When flow is decreased there is higher possibility to damage the fan as it doesn't cool itself&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course we are talking about 3D printers with small plastic fans. Please notice (almost) all fans construction: they are designed to get air from the top of the fan and push it to the bottom (this construction prevents damaging/plugging fan motor by dust)... and their mounting wholes (or clips) are usually... naturally suggesting to direct air to the heatsink)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DMoSn.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DMoSn.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1211" LastEditorUserId="1211" LastEditDate="2017-01-13T08:42:22.143" LastActivityDate="2017-01-13T08:42:22.143" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3370" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3371" CreationDate="2017-01-09T20:30:13.633" Score="3" ViewCount="2401" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there an FDM 3D printing material that looks similar to a cardboard box? I guess, and understand, it would not be possible to 3D print a cardboard box but would there be something similar?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5573" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2017-05-09T01:32:57.583" LastActivityDate="2017-05-09T01:32:57.583" Title="3D printing a cardboard box" Tags="|material|print-material|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3371" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3370" CreationDate="2017-01-09T21:02:57.943" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The closest thing you will find is Woodfill plastic. As time goes on we are seeing more and more PLA that is infused with other materials. Woodfill will look and feel like waxy wood. We are pretty used to seeing fiber boards and the like so this will not come off as odd. However it is not quite cardboard, except that it is also a wood product. It will also smell of wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a close up of a beyond exceptional wood fill printed piece. There is also other types of wood fill including bamboo.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hcYUo.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hcYUo.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;woodfill&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I mean if you want Cardboard.. Why not a laser cutter? While you can get a MUCH cheaper laser cutter, &lt;a href=&quot;https://glowforge.com/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;the glowforge comes to mind.&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1Gqjs.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1Gqjs.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2146" LastEditorUserId="2146" LastEditDate="2017-01-10T02:06:51.577" LastActivityDate="2017-01-10T02:06:51.577" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3372" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6458" CreationDate="2017-01-09T23:41:19.193" Score="5" ViewCount="384" Body="&lt;p&gt;I decided to fire up my 3D Printer again after a while.  I have new PCs, so I had to download &lt;a href=&quot;http://slic3r.org/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Slic3r&lt;/a&gt; fresh, so I got the latest version (1.2.9).  Then I went and found my old config file.  It's really old, from 2013!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And Slic3r did not load it when I told it to, and consequently, when Octoprint was telling my Printrbot LC (custom) to print my things off &lt;a href=&quot;http://octoprint.org/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Thingiverse&lt;/a&gt;, it was not in the bed, and the x axis skipped a few nubs, as would happen when you tell it it's too far away.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I recall having to double and triple check Slic3r to make sure that it actually loaded the configuration I spent time crafting and honing.  However, it's obviously been 3-4 years since I last played with this stuff, and this is a very low level feature that should have been fixed at Day 0 or 1.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I presume that I'm doing something wrong.  Do I need to stand on 1 leg and hold my mouth just right?  I don't even know how I could screw it up...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I changed from &amp;quot;Simple&amp;quot; mode to &amp;quot;Advanced&amp;quot; mode, and the config imported fine.  Though, I don't think it was my most recent config.  C'est la software!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5576" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:29:41.667" LastActivityDate="2018-07-23T23:00:29.080" Title="Why do I have problems trying to get Slic3r to load a config file?" Tags="|slicing|slic3r|octoprint|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3373" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-01-10T02:12:06.417" Score="3" ViewCount="244" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm using craftware, and I'm trying to figure out how to enable expert mode so that I can adjust the extruder/bed temps. I looked all over the application, the user manual, and googled it, but I cannot find the setting to enable it. Any help is appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5579" LastActivityDate="2017-01-10T03:25:32.943" Title="How do I enable Expert mode in the Craftware slicer?" Tags="|heated-bed|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3374" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3373" CreationDate="2017-01-10T03:25:32.943" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I figured it out, you must click the slice button, then among those options, there is s button to switch to Expert mode. Hope this helps someone in the future.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5579" LastActivityDate="2017-01-10T03:25:32.943" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3375" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3386" CreationDate="2017-01-10T06:23:03.147" Score="2" ViewCount="1868" Body="&lt;p&gt;Under FreeCAD, I sketched on the face of a solid as follows :&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Qe4nu.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Qe4nu.png&quot; alt=&quot;sketch&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My problem is, when I use &quot;Pad a selected sketch&quot;, the solid created comprises also the original solid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pHI59.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pHI59.png&quot; alt=&quot;created solid&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It prevents me, for instance, to get the difference with the first one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any idea what may be causing this? How to prevent it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;MyFreeCAD config:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;OS: Ubuntu 16.04.1 LTS&#xA;Word size of OS: 64-bit&#xA;Word size of FreeCAD: 64-bit&#xA;Version: 0.15.4671 (Git)&#xA;Branch: releases/FreeCAD-0-15&#xA;Hash: 244b3aef360841646cbfe80a1b225c8b39c8380c&#xA;Python version: 2.7.11&#xA;Qt version: 4.8.7&#xA;Coin version: 4.0.0a&#xA;OCC version: 6.8.0.oce-0.17&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5580" LastActivityDate="2017-01-12T14:55:29.427" Title="Padded Sketch comprises too many solids (FreeCAD)" Tags="|3d-models|3d-design|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3377" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-01-11T01:25:05.050" Score="1" ViewCount="277" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Prusa i3 and during the print, it will start jerking which makes a noise that sounds like something is going wrong. At first, I thought it was the infill since there is a gap in between the layers which this picture shows (I have ripped off the bad layers to see if I can get any use out of it. The video shows the bad layers). For reference the &quot;wall&quot; along the outside is 2.1 mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/z3bu7.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/z3bu7.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt; Then about 70% of the way through the print, the Y layers started to shift so I thought that the jerking was a result of this. This is a video of what is happening &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.dropbox.com/s/g1afjwyzl8hqej9/IMG_0403.MOV?dl=0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.dropbox.com/s/g1afjwyzl8hqej9/IMG_0403.MOV?dl=0&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So is this the infill that is causing the jerking or is there something that I should fix on the printer that will stop jerking?&#xA;Thank you!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5400" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2018-09-16T12:49:31.020" LastActivityDate="2018-09-16T12:49:31.020" Title="Prusa i3 jerking during printing" Tags="|print-quality|prusa-i3|y-axis|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3378" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3377" CreationDate="2017-01-11T05:22:20.307" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well that is unique. I would say if you only see this after the printer has been running a while then your electronics are likely overheating. Put a fan on it and report back.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Otherwise and also I would reflash the electronics..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2146" LastActivityDate="2017-01-11T05:22:20.307" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3379" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3375" CreationDate="2017-01-11T14:16:50.243" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you just select the face, and pad the face (versus padding the solid), you should not have this problem. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4922" LastActivityDate="2017-01-11T14:16:50.243" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3380" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3185" CreationDate="2017-01-11T14:21:55.553" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Try reducing to just two perimeters, and let that blue area be calculated as infill. This may give you a zig-zag infill instead of a straight, oversized bead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4922" LastActivityDate="2017-01-11T14:21:55.553" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3382" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3440" CreationDate="2017-01-11T20:49:52.380" Score="4" ViewCount="211" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm using a Flashforge Pro and attempting to print a wheel about 6mm thick to serve as a platform.  In other words, the wheel doesn't have to be solid, but spokes won't do the job.  I've experimented with different temperatures, but, because of ABS' thermal expansion, I don't think that will solve the problem.  Also tried putting lots of 2mm holes in the wheel.  I've considered other designs for the interior, but doubt that would be a solution.  Has anyone tried using different print paths, i.e. actually altering the path that the slicer suggests?  (grasping at straws)&#xA;Thanks for your suggestions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5600" LastActivityDate="2017-01-19T23:39:14.050" Title="How to print a 6&quot; wheel in ABS?" Tags="|heated-bed|abs|simplify3d|warping|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3383" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3385" CreationDate="2017-01-11T20:56:10.890" Score="4" ViewCount="1034" Body="&lt;p&gt;Am seeing the following behavior in Marlin:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When moving the printhead, if an end stop is hit, a position report (M114) erroneously reports the print head position as where it was &lt;em&gt;trying&lt;/em&gt; to go, as opposed to where it's position &lt;em&gt;actually&lt;/em&gt; is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example (using pronsole):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;&amp;gt; M114&#xA;X:1.00 Y:1.00 Z:1.00 E:0.00 Count A: 142 B:0 Z:1260  &#xA;&amp;gt; G0 Z100&#xA;endstops hit:  Z:16.88&#xA;&amp;gt; M114&#xA;X:1.00 Y:1.00 Z:100.00 E:0.00 Count A: 142 B:0 Z:21263&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this example, the Z endstop was hit at (z:16.88), but the printer appears to think it is at the target location (z:100).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &quot;Count&quot; Z appears to remain accurate however.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Question: Is this a bug in Marlin, or is this correct behavior and I am misunderstanding something?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4965" LastEditorUserId="4965" LastEditDate="2017-01-12T15:55:29.760" LastActivityDate="2017-01-12T15:55:29.760" Title="Marlin, end stops, and position report - possible bug?" Tags="|marlin|firmware|motor|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3384" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3382" CreationDate="2017-01-12T02:27:44.730" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you can, set your slicer to do honeycomb fill.  Depending on the weight requirement choose maybe 10% - 20% fill.   That ought to do the trick.  It won't be solid, but it should be strong enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are you going to put on the platform?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1397" LastEditorUserId="1397" LastEditDate="2017-01-14T20:25:21.573" LastActivityDate="2017-01-14T20:25:21.573" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3385" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3383" CreationDate="2017-01-12T07:05:30.167" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some info on the subject: few stepper motors have any way of knowing their exact position during operation, which means Marlin will have to assume the steppers always are in the right place. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In other words, all g-code commands are executed &lt;em&gt;relative to their current position&lt;/em&gt;, not with regards to the real positions. So if you forcefully move the printhead during print, the printer will just continue printing the same patterns in mid-air (this is basically what is called &lt;em&gt;layer shifting&lt;/em&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only way the printer can know the real position of the steppers is when the endpoint switches are triggered. This is why the &lt;em&gt;homing&lt;/em&gt; action is done to before prints in order to reset the internal positional bookkeeping of the steppers in Marlin. So if the endpoints are triggered without the printer actually being at the endstops, you will seriously confuse Marlin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I agree that is sounds weird that Marlin does not reset the positions of it's steppers when an endstop is triggered (during print?), but then again, if it happens accidentally (and not as part of a re-calibration procedure), I believe the default actions should be to abort all operation since this would indicate the printer being out of control. Perhaps there simply is no routine to handle movement after the program has been aborted - a situation where probably nothing would be right anyway..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="115" LastEditorUserId="115" LastEditDate="2017-01-12T07:12:21.493" LastActivityDate="2017-01-12T07:12:21.493" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3386" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3375" CreationDate="2017-01-12T10:04:58.203" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ok, I got help on &lt;a href=&quot;http://forum.freecadweb.org/viewtopic.php?f=3&amp;amp;t=19756&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this forum thread&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using &lt;code&gt;Part Extrude&lt;/code&gt; instead of &lt;code&gt;Pad a selected sketch&lt;/code&gt; on the sketch will create an independent solid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It also turns out that, instead of creating the second solid to do a boolean difference, the good way to &quot;cut&quot; my solid is using the &lt;code&gt;PartDesign Pocket&lt;/code&gt; tool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5580" LastEditorUserId="5580" LastEditDate="2017-01-12T14:55:29.427" LastActivityDate="2017-01-12T14:55:29.427" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3387" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3382" CreationDate="2017-01-12T19:07:58.930" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;So you just want a short, wide cylinder? Just print that, with low density infill (20-30%) and 6-8 solid top layers, three bottom, and three perimeters, and you'll be fine. For bed adhesion with something this wide, use a 10mm brim, one layer thick. And a heated chamber will help a lot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4922" LastActivityDate="2017-01-12T19:07:58.930" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3388" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3390" CreationDate="2017-01-12T23:24:57.273" Score="4" ViewCount="187" Body="&lt;p&gt;How are professional or regular products designed on the computer for manufacturing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do they do it by making a 3D model and then getting it made by manufacturers/plastic factories, or the process is different?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it's by making 3D models then what kind of programs do they use - Regular 3D software like blender?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also understand that you can get a 3D model printed by 3d printing services, but are they the same as mass manufacturing companies, by that they make the product by 3D models.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5611" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2020-07-13T11:39:00.920" LastActivityDate="2020-07-13T11:39:00.920" Title="How are things like a USB casing designed for 3D printing?" Tags="|3d-models|3d-design|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="3389" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-01-12T23:39:15.127" Score="3" ViewCount="2620" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to use one of the RAMPS GPIOs to control an external device that requires a 5V low-current logic level signal from Marlin. In order to do this programmatically, my host software (Octoprint) is sending an M42 command. I am using the following syntax:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;M42 P4 S255&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;according to the pinout in the following image:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TRInv.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TRInv.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, the pin appears to not be driven to a logic HIGH level. Is there firmware-level configuration I need to do as well, or is my syntax/pin number incorrect?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="62" LastActivityDate="2019-01-31T16:38:57.877" Title="Why am I not seeing an effect from an M42 command on Marlin?" Tags="|marlin|ramps-1.4|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3390" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3388" CreationDate="2017-01-13T00:24:55.550" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;3D printing provides a faster method for &lt;strong&gt;prototyping&lt;/strong&gt; and have always been labeled as prototyping machines. Until recently, it has been rare to see 3D printers used for &quot;mass manufacturing&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, most mass-produced products start the manufacturing process with a 3D model. 3D models can be created in many different applications such as Solidworks, AutoCAD, Unigraphics, Blender, even Sketchup just to name a few.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In product development, the 3D model will then go through prototyping. &lt;strong&gt;Rapid prototyping&lt;/strong&gt; can be done using a 3D printer by utilizing cheap materials and almost no labor cost. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are a few costs that can be associated with the different prototyping methods.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Traditional Prototyping&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Typically involving &quot;traditional&quot;, subtractive manufacturing methods such as CNC mills, lathes, routers, etc.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;CAM programming&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fixturing&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;CNC Machine Setup&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;CNC Operating/Labor&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Rapid Prototyping&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Typically involving a 3D printer or other additive manufacturing methods)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Model preparation (for slicing)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Printing Operation&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Object post-processing&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Removal of supports&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Curing/Cleaning of part (for non-FDM/FFF printing methods)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once a prototype is produced, the designer will adjust the 3D model accordingly based on results of the prototype. This process will be repeated until the prototype is adequate for the purpose of the end product.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the product design is ready for mass production, it will go through traditional manufacturing methods such as: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;CNC Machining (subtractive)&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mill&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lathe&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Router&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Laser&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;etc.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Injection Molding&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;etc.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="98" LastActivityDate="2017-01-13T00:24:55.550" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3392" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-01-13T18:07:54.947" Score="6" ViewCount="799" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to gear down a servo even further. I notice that the majority of the gears are made of nylon, and I want to create new gears that come close to the resolution and strength of the existing gears. I have a Replicator 2, but the resolution does not seem to come close to what I need. Any suggestions on how I can create nylon or other hard material parts that might work?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5624" LastEditorUserId="5624" LastEditDate="2017-01-13T18:27:05.617" LastActivityDate="2017-01-18T09:45:10.377" Title="How can I print gears using very high resolution material like nylon" Tags="|makerbot|material|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3393" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3392" CreationDate="2017-01-13T18:33:47.223" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Proceeding with the expectation that you mean nylon rather than vinyl, there are a few options open for you. What resolution are you seeking? Layer thickness of 0.100 mm is quite good, allowing for ten layers per mm of part thickness, with infill adjusted as required.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you've already determined that your printer will not print at the resolution required for your gear design, you would perhaps purchase a higher resolution printer. Of course, that may be an expense you would like to avoid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your parts count is small, you could consider to print samples of the parts to confirm fit, but not worry about strength and then use an online service to have them printed via SLS method.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Selective Laser Sintering places nylon powder on the work surface, then selectively melts the powder into a solid. Each layer when completed is covered with another layer of powder and fused to the previous portion (or not) until the part is complete. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because the un-fused powder provides support, there is no requirement for the model to have supplemental support structures. There is a requirement/objective that the part have &quot;drain holes&quot; in areas which might otherwise be solid. Any surface that entraps powder is charged to the purchaser as if the space within is included in the part.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An example would be a cube that can be printed as six square faces only. The cube wall thickness can be specified and if a drain hole is incorporated, the cost would be the volume of the walls only. No drain hole would mean the cube would be charged for the entire volume.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For gears, which are typically low profile/flat items, that's a minor consideration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The same concept applies to SLA printing, which uses a laser in a vat of resin. If the model is a solid with no drain holes, the interior will retain the resin. It is possible that the interior can be cured with strong UV light and/or sunlight, but opaque resins would not accept this work-around, nor would it reduce the cost involved. Also note that SLA printed items would lack the necessary strength.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If farming out your parts is the direction you intend to travel, ensure the dimension stability reference in the vendor you use. Nylon sintered parts will shrink a known amount during the fusing process. The vendor should provide the appropriate reference, or the vendor should confirm that he adjusts the model appropriately for shrinkage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have one very tiny part constructed from SLS nylon and it's amazingly strong for such a thin wall. Nylon wears well too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastEditorUserId="854" LastEditDate="2017-01-13T18:38:53.557" LastActivityDate="2017-01-13T18:38:53.557" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3394" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-01-13T19:24:03.443" Score="9" ViewCount="3409" Body="&lt;p&gt;PTFE tubes are typically delivered coiled up. And because they are quite stiff, they always want to spring back to their original curvy shape, making them harder to route properly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a way to straighten them out?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1998" LastEditorUserId="115" LastEditDate="2017-01-14T15:21:17.397" LastActivityDate="2019-07-26T11:44:04.577" Title="How to straighten PTFE tubes?" Tags="|bowden|ptfe-tube|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3398" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-01-14T21:42:08.230" Score="5" ViewCount="1913" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just got a GeeeTech Rostock 301 mixer head delta printer and am having trouble honing in on why the extruder is struggling with my first spool of ABS.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Being the main parts of the printer came assembled I am unsure of where to start taking things apart. I have a read a multitude of possible causes and am hoping for some direction on which is most likely so I can start there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Symptoms:&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Extruder clicking. The extruder makes a low grinding noise every time it tries to extrude more than 1mm of filament using the manual controls. Again I am working with ABS so I have the hotend heated to 250 degrees C. The extruder had no trouble when I was first putting the filament in and using the extruder to push it thorough the Bowden tube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But when I tried using the manual controls to extrude a small amount of filament it seems to be fine, just a small time delay between the extruder moving and the plastic coming out of the hotend. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Things I have read to try&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Again this a kit printer and the involved components came assembled (see below) so I am not sure what I should look at first. I assume that if it came pre-assembled then it is most likely done correctly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Clean out the hotend, do a cold pull&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Take apart the extruder and realign the driving cog, check for shaft slippage&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Replace your Bowden Tubes&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tweak slicer settings&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the first 3 I think its new so it should be clean, in working order. And for number 4 I put what was in the manual except for the temperatures (because the settings shown in the manual were for PLA but it is a PLA or ABS printer)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Assembly:&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The printer being a kit came with the print head completely assembled as shown in the picture. &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NCO1Y.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NCO1Y.png&quot; alt=&quot;Printer Head-hotend&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not shown in the picture it also had the Bowden tubes in place. It also came with the extruder assembled as shown in the picture. &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VJV5E.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VJV5E.png&quot; alt=&quot;The extruder&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So aside from wiring and mounting these pieces the only thing I did was cut a clean edge on the Bowden tube and connect that to the extruder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5637" LastActivityDate="2017-12-05T13:34:30.363" Title="Extruder skipping/clicking (brand new printer)" Tags="|extruder|abs|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3402" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3405" CreationDate="2017-01-15T14:01:40.907" Score="5" ViewCount="436" Body="&lt;p&gt;We are trying to repair an Ultimaker Original+. One problem is a missing resistor isolation. The Ultimaker Original+ prints with up to 260 Degree Celcius.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Which kind of isolation products are suitable to resist the heat and are fitting on the thin wires of the thermistor?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4816" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2019-08-31T08:21:27.970" LastActivityDate="2019-08-31T08:21:27.970" Title="New thermistor isolation, how?" Tags="|thermistor|ultimaker-original|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3403" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3402" CreationDate="2017-01-15T16:59:45.740" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I used Kapton tape to insulate mine.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5645" LastEditorUserId="5645" LastEditDate="2017-01-16T17:02:04.853" LastActivityDate="2017-01-16T17:02:04.853" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3404" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3402" CreationDate="2017-01-15T18:25:13.893" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure if it fits the use you're describing, but Kapton (polyimide) tape is stable to about 400 degrees C. It can also be used as a build surface, so generally useful to have some.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Kapton tape is used all the time for electronic work, both to secure fine wires (for example patch wires on a PCB) and for insulation. It's not so great for thermal insulation since it is thin, but I have my hot-end wrapped in it, and that has saved some burnt fingers.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4927" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-07-26T11:35:38.783" LastActivityDate="2019-07-26T11:35:38.783" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="3405" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3402" CreationDate="2017-01-15T20:08:03.563" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The most common choice for insulating thermistors is glass fiber sleeving. It tolerates very high temperatures, and is commonly rated for up to 600&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Teflon is also used but has a rather low upper limit on its working temperature; it shouldn't be used at temperatures exceeding 260&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C - which rules it out for your purpose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-07-26T11:37:30.130" LastActivityDate="2019-07-26T11:37:30.130" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="3406" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3407" CreationDate="2017-01-15T20:22:27.473" Score="2" ViewCount="602" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm creating a reverse Bowden setup to guide my filament from spool to extruder, through a path which contains two &lt;a href=&quot;http://amzn.eu/almYaNi&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;couplers&lt;/a&gt; in the middle as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;code&gt;[spool] --- |#= --- =#| --- [extruder]&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I have to connect a tube to the &lt;em&gt;back&lt;/em&gt; of a coupler (&lt;code&gt;---=#|&lt;/code&gt;) and not just to the front (&lt;code&gt;---|#=&lt;/code&gt;). That's the end that contains the screw thread, and it's not designed to take a tube. I can't manage to make it a smooth transition. When I try to push my 1.75&amp;nbsp;mm filament through, it will often get stuck there. After it's through, the extruder seems to have no problem with it anymore.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a trick to making this a smooth transition?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1998" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-07-26T11:26:44.667" LastActivityDate="2019-07-26T11:32:50.327" Title="Smooth transition between a PTFE tube and the back of a push-fit coupler" Tags="|bowden|ptfe-tube|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="3407" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3406" CreationDate="2017-01-15T22:42:35.867" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The solution might be to countersink the opening at the threaded portion within the tube. There are various angles available for countersinks, although the more common angles are 82 degrees and 90 degrees.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Drive the countersink to the point where the wall thickness is zero, unlike the drawing below showing some material outside the beveled area.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WCXhM.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Cross section of center bit drilled holes&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WCXhM.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; title=&quot;Cross section of center bit drilled holes&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For your purposes, you'd want the steepest angle possible, the 60 degree tool.  If you decided to purchase a countersink, pick a diameter slightly larger than the outside diameter of the wall thickness of the coupler. You could use a countersink of the same diameter as the outside diameter of the threads. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Center drills are available with 60 degree angles as well:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B00M54BPRQ&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Amazon specific item&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6edXI.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Center drill bits&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6edXI.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; title=&quot;Center drill bits&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The second smallest center drill listed here has a 1.5&amp;nbsp;mm center point with a 4&amp;nbsp;mm drill point. If your coupling is larger than 4&amp;nbsp;mm, the next size up will not work as well, as the center point is 2.5&amp;nbsp;mm. You'd have to resort to a countersink only.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are near a machine shop or have a friend with a mill or even a decent drill press, those resources may be able to perform the countersink for a minimal (or possibly zero) fee.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a mini-mill and a collection of countersinks as well as center drills. I found my bag of unused couplers. They are for 5&amp;nbsp;mm tubing and were flat on the threaded end. This is the result after a quick trip to the mill. It appears in the close up that I could have driven the center drill deeper into the fitting, and also cleaned off the swarf a bit as well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/t6WTO.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Chamfered inner hole backside of the pneumatic coupler&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/t6WTO.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Chamfered inner hole backside of the pneumatic coupler&quot; title=&quot;Chamfered inner hole backside of the pneumatic coupler&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-07-26T11:32:50.327" LastActivityDate="2019-07-26T11:32:50.327" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="3410" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3411" CreationDate="2017-01-16T21:09:56.540" Score="4" ViewCount="891" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have read a few times&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; that the Arduino Mega can struggle to perform the tasks required for 3D printer control, as the AVR chip is working at its limits, and this is why some manufacturers have moved away from the ATmega2560, to make custom (and integrated) controller boards using ARM processors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having just seen the latest answer to this question, &lt;a href=&quot;https://arduino.stackexchange.com/questions/18538/multithreading-with-arduino&quot;&gt;Multithreading with the Arduino&lt;/a&gt;, on the Arduino SE site, I wondered if anyone had used a &lt;a href=&quot;http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/processor-microcontroller-development-kits/1245257/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Shield Buddy&lt;/a&gt; in conjunction with the standard RAMPS 1.4 board?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OEeU9.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OEeU9.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Shield Buddy&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is pin for pin compatible with the Arduino Mega (and Arduino IDE compatible - once the appropriate add-ons have been installed), but it has a much faster three core processor. Obviously only one core would be used, leaving the other two idling, but even so the performance is &lt;em&gt;apparently&lt;/em&gt; much better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.rs-online.com/designspark/bringing-multicore-to-the-arduino-world-with-shieldbuddy-tc275&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Bringing Multicore To The Arduino World With ShieldBuddy TC275&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If anyone has experience of using this board, I would like to know whether it was successful or not? I don't see why it should not, although the Marlin firmware would need recompiling, for the Aurix TC275 processor. Would any improvement be seen? Is it worth paying the high price tag of £89?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; One of the places was &lt;a href=&quot;http://hackaday.com/2013/09/06/3d-printering-electronics-boards/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;3D Printering: Electronics boards&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;While they work for what they’re intended to do, there are a few&#xA;  limitations. Arcs and circles are a little weird to program, and using&#xA;  these boards for something other than a cartesian 3D printer – a CNC&#xA;  machine, or a laser cutter, for example – is a bit out of the&#xA;  ordinary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4762" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:50:09.407" LastActivityDate="2017-01-25T18:54:02.693" Title="Has anyone used a Shield Buddy (en lieu of a Arduino Mega2560) as the RAMPS 1.4 host board?" Tags="|ramps-1.4|arduino-mega-2650|hardware|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3411" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3410" CreationDate="2017-01-16T23:00:15.247" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's not quite as simple as you would suggest.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can't just recompile Marlin for another device. You'd need to rewrite large parts of it. It may be compatible with the Arduino IDE, but that doesn't mean you can just run firmware intended for the AtMega2560 on it. All the timings (e.g. those of the pulses sent to the stepper motors) would be off, if you managed to get it to compile at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As some examples, here are some pieces of code from Marlin that would be broken, as they're written directly in AVR assembly:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#define DELAY_1_NOP  __asm__(&quot;nop\n\t&quot;)&#xA;#define DELAY_2_NOP  __asm__(&quot;nop\n\t&quot; &quot;nop\n\t&quot;)&#xA;&#xA;[...]&#xA;&#xA;// ensure 100ns delay - a bit extra is fine&#xA;asm(&quot;nop&quot;);//50ns on 20Mhz, 62.5ns on 16Mhz&#xA;asm(&quot;nop&quot;);//50ns on 20Mhz, 62.5ns on 16Mhz&#xA;&#xA;[...]&#xA;&#xA;#define MultiU24X32toH16(intRes, longIn1, longIn2) \&#xA;asm volatile ( \&#xA;             &quot;clr r26 \n\t&quot; \&#xA;             &quot;mul %A1, %B2 \n\t&quot; \&#xA;             &quot;mov r27, r1 \n\t&quot; \&#xA;             &quot;mul %B1, %C2 \n\t&quot; \&#xA;             &quot;movw %A0, r0 \n\t&quot; \&#xA;             &quot;mul %C1, %C2 \n\t&quot; \&#xA;             &quot;add %B0, r0 \n\t&quot; \&#xA;             &quot;mul %C1, %B2 \n\t&quot; \&#xA;             &quot;add %A0, r0 \n\t&quot; \&#xA;             &quot;adc %B0, r1 \n\t&quot; \&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastActivityDate="2017-01-16T23:00:15.247" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3412" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3312" CreationDate="2017-01-17T04:06:14.380" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is half of an answer. I have finally received an answer from my supplier, which says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Long thin rod is mounted as in the photo. I do not know what is a&#xA;  small hole.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the small hole is still a mystery. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is the photo that was included with the message (which confirms my placement, just not the orientation):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tbPrR.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tbPrR.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Long thin rod placement&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As tjb1 points out in his &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/3312/orientation-of-long-thin-rod-on-p3steel-v4/3412#comment4579_3312&quot;&gt;comment&lt;/a&gt;, the hole can be clearly seen on the right hand side of the bar, in the eBay photo:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ygjzL.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ygjzL.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Photo of P3Steel&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4762" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T13:00:58.447" LastActivityDate="2017-02-01T15:09:58.407" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3413" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3332" CreationDate="2017-01-17T04:08:17.003" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have finally received a reply from my supplier, which backs up StarWind's answer:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did not use a rod with grooves for retaining rings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I used bolts and nuts with a thin head.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Doesn't really answer my question though, as I really rather hanker after the 8 mm smooth rod with the circlip grooves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4762" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:29:41.667" LastActivityDate="2017-01-17T04:08:17.003" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3414" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-01-17T11:39:53.883" Score="3" ViewCount="299" Body="&lt;p&gt;If a part is wanted to be made the strongest possible, what slicer settings should be used? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;3-5 shells vs  all shells, no infill? &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;100% infill vs  some other % infill?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Thin layer height vs thick layer height?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Any other relevant settings?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="43" LastActivityDate="2019-07-26T11:09:32.080" Title="What slicer settings would produce the strongest part?" Tags="|slicing|print-strength|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3415" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3414" CreationDate="2017-01-17T12:22:14.680" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If your real question is what would be the strongest then I say - the solid would be the strongest - no doubt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But if the question is: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;what be the strongest in comparison to weight or&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;what is the strongest in comparison to the cost (amount of material)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;then these are good questions!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can of course find many tutorials and comparisons on the net and there will be many answers - which all of them could be good/bad ;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If these are your questions then instead of simple answer you can ask more questions like:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;in which orientation or&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;for what purpose or&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;for continues stress or maybe for variable stress or&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;for bending forces / shearing forces or maybe tearing forces&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;all these forces and circumstances could require other answer... which could also lead to other questions :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But according to my experience, the strongest settings (for general purpose) is 3 outlines (and the same number of first/last layers) and triangle infill 20-25&amp;nbsp;%&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why I think this is the strongest, 3 layers gives good chance to have well stickiness even if there are geometric/design issues and triangle infill gives good (and common) way to carry and spread forces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But as I said it depends on many input data.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's look at these figures:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/q6OeG.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/q6OeG.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;in figure A we have the strongest composition for compression; this is because all working forces try to damage material particles which is of course hard to do (depending on material density and length of polymers and the way they are tangled and so on - in general - material strength only).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If we consider figure B where forces try to tear apart layers then we know that we base on stickiness between layers which can vary on printing parameters (as is temperature and speed).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, figure C shows shearing forces - in terms of layered structure it doesn't really differ from tearing apart but the results (the resistance of and object) is even weaker - it's because we base on stickiness and we additionally have less effective field of working stickiness) which reduces endurance of an object.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1211" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-07-26T10:56:34.937" LastActivityDate="2019-07-26T10:56:34.937" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="3416" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3332" CreationDate="2017-01-17T13:07:24.793" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could look up a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.pivotpins.com/products/bc-clevis-pins-with-grooves.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Clevis pin&lt;/a&gt; with one groove.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;You could look up a &lt;a href=&quot;http://technifast.co.uk/clevis-pins&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Clevis pin&lt;/a&gt; with a hole for a split pin.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Perhaps a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.ondrives.com/303-stainless-steel-shoulder-screws#/pageSize=25&amp;amp;orderBy=5&amp;amp;pageNumber=3&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Shoulder screw&lt;/a&gt; with a ground shank and a low profile head.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Use a plain rod with &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bakfin.com/starlock/metric-capped-roundshaft.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Dome caps&lt;/a&gt; if you will not need to remove often.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;If available an internal threaded &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.unicorpinc.com/metric-standoffs.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Standoff&lt;/a&gt; would work.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;A &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.ondrives.com/carbon-steel-slotted-spring-pins&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Slotted spring pin&lt;/a&gt; may work if the hole dimensions are suitable.    &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;You could also cut the grooves yourself pretty easily.  Cut a section of 8mm rod to length and mount it into a drill chuck so it stick out 2-3mm 1/8&quot;. Hold a hacksaw at the edge of the chuck and run the drill for a minute with gentle pressure, try hacksaw on other side or reverse direction if nothing is happening.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;A hardened rod will cut better with a Dremel type cut-off disk&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fzlGw.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fzlGw.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5663" LastEditorUserId="5663" LastEditDate="2017-02-12T13:16:14.347" LastActivityDate="2017-02-12T13:16:14.347" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3417" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-01-17T13:49:49.177" Score="6" ViewCount="1938" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I &lt;em&gt;accidentally&lt;/em&gt; reverse the polarity of my power supply to the RAMPS board, what &lt;em&gt;exactly&lt;/em&gt; will be damaged?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will it harm my:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;RAMPS;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Arduino Mega;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Stepper motor and/or drivers, or; &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Any other electronic part(s)?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will all or some of them be permanently damaged?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5665" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-09-13T18:35:44.510" LastActivityDate="2018-09-16T19:04:50.150" Title="How drastic is reversing the polarity of the power supply to a RAMPS board?" Tags="|ramps-1.4|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="3418" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3346" CreationDate="2017-01-17T23:37:43.783" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yup that is what happens. It is simply the plastic cooling and shrinking. It will happen on just about any printer. 0.3mm on a what 40mm part. That is 99.3% on target. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are some great &lt;a href=&quot;https://innovationstation.utexas.edu/tip-design/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;blog links&lt;/a&gt; about it, &#xA;and here is a &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/3243/producing-closely-fitting-parts/3249#3249&quot;&gt;Stack overflow&lt;/a&gt; where I talk about it more in detail.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only mitigations I can think of is&#xA;1) use a hear chamber.&#xA;2) use a SLA 3d printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wouldn't worry about it. Just make sure your designs have good tolerances.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2146" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T13:00:58.447" LastActivityDate="2017-01-17T23:37:43.783" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3419" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3452" CreationDate="2017-01-18T00:44:39.150" Score="8" ViewCount="1325" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm (surprisingly) having a problem getting my PEI substrate to stick to the heated bed surface.  The ABS item being printed stuck great to the PEI surface.  I've not seen anyone else post on this problem, but perhaps someone has seen it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note, this is the PRINT SURFACE warping, not the item being printed.  That part went great with no delamination even on a large flat bottom.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm using 3M 468 adhesive to attach a PEI plastic sheet directly to the heated surface of my Flashforge Creator Pro printer.  The heated bed is anodized black and the adhesive is a sheet cut to the requisite 6&quot; X 9&quot;.  It seemed fine and looked pretty good with few air bubbles when first attached, but the first print caused the edges of the PEI plastic to warp up from the corners of the bed.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It appears that the weak link is that the PEI detached from the adhesive. While this was not uniform, removal of the PEI sheet showed that 95% of the adhesive was still attached to the print bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The PEI has one glossy side and one matte side, and I chose to apply the adhesive to the matte side to get the glossy surface.  Does this make a difference?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I applied the adhesive to the PEI surface just as it was after removing the protective plastic coating.  I figured this was a clean as it was ever going to get.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd definitely appreciate some ideas on this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4627" LastActivityDate="2017-01-21T15:56:26.467" Title="Bad PEI plate adhesion to heated bed" Tags="|heated-bed|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3420" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3424" CreationDate="2017-01-18T05:40:20.393" Score="4" ViewCount="2234" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got a Monoprice Mini Select (15365) and it takes FOREVER for me to manually spin the dial to get the printhead to raise all the way up so that I can perform maintenance (clear blockages in the nozzle or apply new tape to the bed, etc).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, I was thinking about writing a snippet of gcode that I could just run which would contain the commands necessary to do that for me. I'm a n00b to 3D printing, but I'm an old programmer so I figured it would be too hard. However, before running this code on my printer, I wanted to get some experts to double check me to make sure I'm not going to hurt anything. :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is what I have, please let me know if I've done anything wrong or if you have any suggestions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;; Move print head to center and top to prepare for cleaning/maintenance&#xA;&#xA;M107    ; fan off&#xA;G28 ; home all axes&#xA;G21 ; set units to millimeters&#xA;G90 ; use absolute coordinates&#xA;&#xA;; full dimensions of the print area are 120mm x 120mm x 120mm&#xA;G0 X60 Y60 Z119 ; move to center X,Y and just below the max height&#xA;&#xA;M84     ; disable motors&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I grabbed a few lines from gcode generated by Slic3r and used the gcode wiki entry to understand each of the commands and fill in the extra ones I needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5446" LastEditorUserId="5446" LastEditDate="2017-01-18T19:47:13.947" LastActivityDate="2017-01-19T19:35:48.603" Title="gcode to move the printhead up for maintenance" Tags="|g-code|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3421" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3324" CreationDate="2017-01-18T06:33:31.767" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Eureka! All of the other answers and suggestions on this post were all very helpful, and would likely be the right answers 90+% of the time, but they didn't give me any relief. I spent a bunch of time watching YouTube videos about 3D printing and I started to notice a difference in size of the lines of plastic being laid down on the build plate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the videos, the lines of plastic looked bigger. Mine were very fine lines. That lead me down a series of different search terms until I found some other videos that talked about nozzle cleaning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I noticed that one of the symptoms they mentioned was that when the plastic would come out of the nozzle that it would curve around. That's a sign that it's partially blocked and causing it to bend and curve. After the people in the YouTube videos cleaned their nozzle, the plastic would then extrude and drop straight down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If my nozzle was partially blocked and only about half the right amount of plastic was coming out that would make sense since there wouldn't be enough surface area of the plastic to make a good connection to the build surface. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I acquired some &lt;a href=&quot;https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01CCF46EQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;psc=1&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;0.4mm drill bits from Amazon&lt;/a&gt; and followed the instructions on &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=doqlEsssz1g&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;this YouTube video&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sure enough, when using the 0.4mm drill bits, I could tell the nozzle was clogged. After clearing it out, the plastic started extruding in a straight line down, just like the video. I was stoked!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried another print and it was NIGHT AND DAY. I was finally getting nice plump lines that stuck to the build plate. I still had an issue or two on certain parts of my build plate, but I think that's because in all of my tries I had damaged the masking tape. I put down new blue tape and started up my print and it's BEAUTIFUL.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you all very much for your help. Hopefully, this will be helpful to someone else as well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5446" LastActivityDate="2017-01-18T06:33:31.767" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3422" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3392" CreationDate="2017-01-18T09:45:10.377" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If changing the nozzle to a smaller diameter is a viable alternative for your printer, then that may give a major increase in your X-Y-resolution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can think of it like drawing with a pencil vs. a thick crayon: a fine tip allows for fine details.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally I have done some printing with a 0.25mm nozzle,  which was a bit of a challenge to find good slicer settings for,  but otherwise went very well, giving much better resolution than my 0.4mm nozzle (nearly twice a good to be exact). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="115" LastActivityDate="2017-01-18T09:45:10.377" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3424" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3420" CreationDate="2017-01-18T12:34:37.883" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, on machines which will execute &quot;standard&quot; gcode, this will do what you request. Some good resources are &lt;a href=&quot;http://reprap.org/wiki/G-code&quot;&gt;http://reprap.org/wiki/G-code&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/G-code&quot;&gt;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/G-code&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4922" LastActivityDate="2017-01-18T12:34:37.883" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3428" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3449" CreationDate="2017-01-18T22:38:32.910" Score="6" ViewCount="299" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm very new to 3D printing, and I am very interested in printing electronics. I want to be able to print out circuits, so I've been trying to find a conductive filament. What sorts of conductive filaments are available to the consumer (me) and are of acceptable quality&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edited for clarity: I am not seeking a product recommendation, but rather am looking to know what sort of variety I can expect and more specifically which filaments are useful for printing electronics. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5697" LastEditorUserId="5697" LastEditDate="2017-01-22T22:13:45.937" LastActivityDate="2017-01-22T22:13:45.937" Title="What are some conductive filaments that can be used in printing electronics?" Tags="|filament|reprap|electronics|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="12" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3431" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3454" CreationDate="2017-01-19T14:11:02.343" Score="20" ViewCount="49848" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've noticed this on almost ever print I've ever had. On the initial first line that clears the extruder nozzle tiny little bubbles/craters seem to form on the line. While I don't think these are causing any issue with my prints I'm curious to know the reason why they form at all. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this due to water absorption in my filament that turns to steam, which then bursts through the molten plastic? Is it due to air bubbles in the filament that are cause by the manufacturing process of the filament? Or is this more an indication that my nozzle is damaged or clogged in some way?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2we0A.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2we0A.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Bubbles in extrusion&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This image was made using ABS plastic and a heated build plate. I've noticed these same 'bubbles' appearing using PLA, and Nylon. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: Nozzle temperature 240°C, build plate temperature 150°C, Nozzle diameter 0.4 mm, filament diameter (measured 1.75 mm) retraction distance 1.7 mm. Using the Makerbot Desktop Slicer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first line that my printer extrudes, where I'm seeing these 'bubbles' is a nearly full line. Makerbot starts from the right side of the image, extruding to the left. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3sf99.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3sf99.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Single line extrusion on printer bed&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5518" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2018-09-16T12:22:08.633" LastActivityDate="2018-09-16T12:22:08.633" Title="What causes bubbles in extruded filament?" Tags="|filament|print-quality|makerbot|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3432" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3431" CreationDate="2017-01-19T18:09:09.123" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is only one way to find out, which is by isolating any reasons, starting from the simplest one: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Firstly, clean and check, or change, your nozzle;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Secondly, if that does not work, then change the filament, or find a way to get it dry (some people, with some filaments, use an oven to get moisture out - careful, don't burn it);&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Finally, change filament brand and get a better quality filament or another type of filament. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another reason that it does not extrude consistently, is that what you mention as [appearing to be] bubbles maybe [intentional] gaps [in the print].&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5536" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2017-05-21T11:50:37.893" LastActivityDate="2017-05-21T11:50:37.893" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3433" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3419" CreationDate="2017-01-19T18:19:38.640" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I never used one, but the thing that makes two parts stick together is the atmospheric pressure. The glue is just a thing that, even if it does not make any chemical bond, is keeping the air out. A pure example of that is if you put water in a glass and then put another one on it. Although the water is not glue you can't easily pull it up and if the surface is big you can't at all. It is the atmospheric pressure that keeps them together and the water keeps the air out ;). I suggest try the other side and see I'm just guessing . Good luck!!!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5536" LastEditorUserId="26" LastEditDate="2017-01-21T10:19:56.427" LastActivityDate="2017-01-21T10:19:56.427" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3434" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3398" CreationDate="2017-01-19T18:33:09.460" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;First you have to see if nothing jams the filament (blocked nozzle or anything in its path, PTFE tube not good, etc).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second, the temp for ABS is about 225°C to 230°C. At least that worked for me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If none of the above, then go for the motor. The problem could be from bad settings, low power or a motor malfunction. Maybe the motor is no good to begin with. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck !!!   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5536" LastEditorUserId="854" LastEditDate="2017-01-27T01:01:13.970" LastActivityDate="2017-01-27T01:01:13.970" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3435" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3402" CreationDate="2017-01-19T18:45:47.680" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are many materials you can use one that came to my mind is this High Temperature &amp;amp; Pressure Sealant and also the best way to apply it so it can be removed easy is this . take a kitchen food very thing nylon cover you know the very thin elastic one or cover the parts with some type of release agent (dont use something that inhibit silicone like sulfur or sulfur containing staff) and apply it over it then when is solid cut it and release it it would be like a glove i hope ;)There are silicone that are really high temp 1000 f to 2000 f good luck :) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5536" LastActivityDate="2017-01-19T18:45:47.680" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3436" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3431" CreationDate="2017-01-19T19:32:31.623" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had a similar issue with my Prusa i3 mk2. In researching what could cause extrusion to be nonuniform, I found that it could be due to a number of things:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Nozzle height&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Flow rate&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bed/Nozzle/Ambient Temperature&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Improper bed leveling&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Dirty reservoir or filament&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Low quality filament&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hardware failure&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;etc...&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For me, the problem happened to be a hardware failure where the screw that held the pulley in place on the extruder motor had stripped somehow and the pulley was slipping as the printer was trying to extrude. I temporarily fixed this by using a slightly bigger screw, but was able to get a new pulley/screw piece from Prusa Research to replace the part.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5706" LastActivityDate="2017-01-19T19:32:31.623" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3437" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3431" CreationDate="2017-01-19T19:34:54.203" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my experience, bubbles like this are caused by the filament absorbing moisture, which then cooks out at the high printing temperatures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See: &lt;a href=&quot;http://reprap.org/wiki/Print_Troubleshooting_Pictorial_Guide#Material_Handling.2C_Material_Contamination_01&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://reprap.org/wiki/Print_Troubleshooting_Pictorial_Guide#Material_Handling.2C_Material_Contamination_01&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4922" LastActivityDate="2017-01-19T19:34:54.203" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3438" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3420" CreationDate="2017-01-19T19:35:48.603" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It really depends on whether you currently have something half printed on the bed when you need to do maintenance. &#xA;For example, you may have a blockage mid-print or need to reprime the nozzle. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So with that in mind, personally I would separate the line that does the move into two different lines. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Move vertically first, then in X Y. Otherwise, the print head may move diagonally and hit your object. This is because the head will move all three axes at once.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Otherwise looks good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: Another suggestion is that if you use repetier host to control the printer it will be easier to return to the print in-progress automatically.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also take a look at the S parameter, for moves it can control how fast the move is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="660" LastActivityDate="2017-01-19T19:35:48.603" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3439" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3103" CreationDate="2017-01-19T19:56:33.797" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;A thermal image of my aluminum heated bed does not show hotspots, although the edges are cooler than the majority of the center.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Nh3Uu.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Nh3Uu.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Hyrel Hotbed Thermal Image&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4922" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2017-02-16T12:00:41.633" LastActivityDate="2017-02-16T12:00:41.633" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3440" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3382" CreationDate="2017-01-19T23:39:14.050" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had pretty much this exact situation when printing a disk for a rocket avionics bay.  It seemed to come down to getting the basics of bed adhesion: Heat bed, ABS temp, bed composition, and a &quot;primer&quot; layer.  I found the FF Creator Pro to work well with a bed at 110, filament at 230, printing on a glass plate with ABS slurry.  Then adding the brim 6 orbits wide held it down very well.  I found that printing on the stock FF blue plastic was inconsistent with adhesion.  Also, keep the door closed while printing and for something this size don't run the cooling fan (if you're printing on the left nozzle).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And, of course, the right infill helps with the thermal contraction and strength.  I found through testing that the rectilinear patter in S3D gave the best structural support in multiple dimensions.  I also end up typically printing infill at about 15% to ensure a good surface on the upper face.  Any lower and I found a lot of sagging in the top finish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're using this as a platform, then the layer size matters a lot also.  You don't need .10mm layers, as .25mm or .20mm layers would probably work better.  Then make sure you print enough top layers to get a good finish.  At .20mm I usually print 4 top layers with a 15% infill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4627" LastActivityDate="2017-01-19T23:39:14.050" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3441" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3088" CreationDate="2017-01-19T23:54:31.130" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Thermistors and thermocouples are different animals.  A thermistor changes resistance based on the temperature at the junction.  A thermocouple generates a small voltage (mV range) which varies depending on the temperature.  Higher temps typically use a thermocouple because thermistors tend to not be as accurate at those elevated temps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My printer uses thermocouples, and it appears that yours does also.  I'm not sure what you mean by &quot;crushed&quot;, but you can check to see if the wires are shorted to the heat block or to each other.  It is unlikely that you've damaged the input to the control board by doing this.  Shorted wires can give the same readings as no thermocouple attached.  You can also get errors induced through ground isolation if wires are shorted to the heating block.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Changing this out for a different system with a different input amplifier sounds like a nightmare in the making, and I'd only attempt it if I could not fix the existing problem or find a direct replacement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4627" LastActivityDate="2017-01-19T23:54:31.130" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3442" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-01-20T01:10:43.790" Score="6" ViewCount="525" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm using a Lulzbot KITTAZ with V2 Dual extruder(0.5mm). When I'm printing anything, the front left side of the print is getting disturbed because whenever the tool head switches the action between the extruders, they stop at the front left point of the print. They are not performing the Z-hop and because they are hot they are disturbing the print at that point.&#xA;These are the settings that are currently set:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tXWta.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tXWta.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Print Settings in cura&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The print with the disturbance:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7Dh69.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7Dh69.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Disturbed print&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sometimes the whole print is getting dragged to the extruders.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4544" LastEditorUserId="4544" LastEditDate="2017-01-22T01:08:13.913" LastActivityDate="2018-08-06T20:15:14.533" Title="No Z hop in Dual extruder, print getting disturbed at retraction point" Tags="|print-quality|abs|z-axis|dual-nozzle|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3443" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3444" CreationDate="2017-01-20T06:14:55.227" Score="7" ViewCount="261" Body="&lt;h2&gt;TL;DR - What needs to be done to the following model to ensure a successful print?&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As part of a father-son project we're trying to make an enclosure for a digital clock. The idea is to make a 3D printed model of a rocket with a hollow body to hold the electronics. The main body consists of two halves that will press-fit together with some integrated mounting locations for the display, micro-controller, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since this is our first 3D printing project, I would like to know what can be done to the following model to help ensure a successful first print. We have not chosen a material or supplier yet, but I suspect we'll go with PLA since it seems to be quite common, inexpensive, available in lots of colours, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rFYl6.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rFYl6.png&quot; alt=&quot;Main Body Shell Front&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The model is not yet complete - there are several details missing, like additional mounting locations - but I was hoping to make corrections to what we already have before too much further, just in case it requires a complete restart.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are some possibly relevant details and goals:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The shell thickness is currently 2.5 mm.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;We would like the shell to be translucent to allow a glowing effect from some internal LEDs.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The nose cone and thruster (not shown) will probably have pins that press-fit into the top and bottom of both halves of the shell to hold them together.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There is a 0.5 mm clearance between the lip on the front shell and the detent on the rear shell.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The rectangular window will possibly be removed, or made into a flip-open door.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There aren't a lot of hard requirements as this is just a learning project, so we're willing to change almost anything about the design, as long as we can fit in the existing clock parts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Fusion 360 model is available to view online if it helps: &lt;a href=&quot;http://a360.co/2jeDD8A&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Rocket Concept 3&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5698" LastActivityDate="2017-01-29T17:24:11.483" Title="How can I make this rounded enclosure feasible to print?" Tags="|3d-models|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3444" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3443" CreationDate="2017-01-20T12:14:21.223" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;With a couple of minor adjustments, that would print just fine standing up as it is. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively you could lay it down with the open side facing upwards and use a few supports (my least favourite method), or simply make a flat spot on the back to lay on the printer bed. Which is probably what I would do. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as shell thickness goes - 2.5 mm is pretty heavy duty. You also need to bear in mind that it's best to have a thickness as a factor of the thickness of your bead or your layer height (depends on printing orientation) - assuming you are going to print this yourself. So usually that would either be divisible by the bead width or by the layer height. If you want translucent - easy enough use translucent or clear filament. I'd probably go for 1.2 mm or 1.6 mm wall thickness.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I made an angel at Christmas with clear PLA and quite a thick wall (wasn't my model and I didn't bother measuring - but at least 2 mm) and an LED candle lit it up really well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's much easier doing this kind of thing after buying the printer. that way you learn much quicker what works and what doesn't.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5716" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2017-01-29T17:24:11.483" LastActivityDate="2017-01-29T17:24:11.483" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3448" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="768" CreationDate="2017-01-20T17:10:18.523" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The friction inside of the guide tubes is fairly minimal assuming that the lines are straight and there isn't anything else inside them. My guess would be that you may have another issue. Reducing the drag in the guide tubes while it may reduce the problem of clogged nozzle, might just be hiding the symptoms of another problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've heard, but never tried adding a dab of Canola oil to the tip of your filament prior to feeding it into your extruder. Specifically for Makerbots.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Link my source:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://groups.google.com/forum/#!topic/makerbot/Wn-MKC1Ybm0%5B1-25%5D&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://groups.google.com/forum/#!topic/makerbot/Wn-MKC1Ybm0%5B1-25%5D&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5518" LastActivityDate="2017-01-20T17:10:18.523" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3449" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3428" CreationDate="2017-01-20T19:28:48.883" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;At this point conductive filaments are a very new thing. All the filiments on the market are PLA based that have been infused with Carbon or Graphine&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However I worry you over estimate what you can do with this. You will at most be able to 3d print a simple wire and power a LED. You will not be able to run a microcontroller, and honestly I would expect a complicated print to have too much or too little resistance, maybe burst into flames.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dNRoU.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dNRoU.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You really should look into the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.voxel8.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Voxle 8&lt;/a&gt; and other printers. The printer is really the driving factor. Using a conductive filament will not be enough. Note this printer uses a syringe not PLA plastic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a Voxle8 print.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1VpSs.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1VpSs.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Voxlel8&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2146" LastActivityDate="2017-01-20T19:28:48.883" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3450" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3451" CreationDate="2017-01-21T01:50:51.590" Score="3" ViewCount="214" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am trying to print an earbud holder with my Prusa i3. About an hour though the 3-hour print I left the printer for about 20 minutes and when I came back the printer stopped printing. The printer didn't display any errors on the LCD. The extruder and printing bed all cooled down but the z-axis didn't raise so the nozzle was stuck to the print. What could cause the printer to stop printing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5400" LastActivityDate="2017-01-21T10:04:03.800" Title="Prusa i3 Stopping midprint" Tags="|filament|prusa-i3|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3451" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3450" CreationDate="2017-01-21T10:04:03.800" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's really no telling why that happened if you weren't there to observe it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A possibility is a temporary power outage, which would stop and reset the printer without any trace of it having happened. Even if there was not a power outage, maybe there was a temporary dip in power that caused the power supply to be unable to supply the required voltage (or perhaps the power supply was of poor quality to begin with and suffered some issue that caused the voltage to drop).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another possibility is that you were printing via a computer, and the computer rebooted during the print. If this is not the case and you were printing via an SD card, maybe the SD card became corrupted and the printer read some invalid G-code and reset itself (though this latter case would probably come with some indication of a fault on the LCD).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastActivityDate="2017-01-21T10:04:03.800" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3452" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3419" CreationDate="2017-01-21T15:56:26.467" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Perhaps this is due to the aluminum build plate warping/crowning as it heats?  I use a PEI print surface on my Monoprice Maker Select (Wanhao Di3), which has an 8.5&quot;x8.5&quot; build plate, and I've had no issues with the PEI coming unstuck.  However, instead of attaching mine directly to the aluminum heated build plate, I attached it (using 3M 468) to a piece of Borosilicate glass, which is then attached to my aluminum build plate using silicone thermal heatsink pads.  The rational for using a Borosilicate glass print surface is that a heated metal build surface is going to warp or move some, as the heat is coming from one side; the glass will not warp and so you have a completely flat surface on which to print (and the heatsink pads help make up the difference in surface geometry).  I used &lt;a href=&quot;http://3dprinterwiki.info/wiki/wanhao-duplicator-i3/duplicator-i3-basic-mods/adding-a-glass-bed/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this 3dprinterwiki article&lt;/a&gt; as the basis for my glass bed mod, and applied the PEI/adhesive using another source (which I've forgotten, possibly &lt;a href=&quot;http://reprap.org/wiki/PEI_build_surface&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;the RepRap wiki&lt;/a&gt;).  While the first link is Wanhao Di3 specific, it covers the idea.  Make sure you tweak your z-endstops if needed on your particular machine, as adding the glass plat raises the bed height by several mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please note that I'm theorizing - I did not ever try applying my PEI directly to my aluminum build plate, so I have no direct comparison.  But the use of glass to eliminate build plate warping/crowning is fairly well documented. See also &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/506/2541&quot;&gt;this 3DPSE Answer&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2541" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T13:00:58.447" LastActivityDate="2017-01-21T15:56:26.467" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3453" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3350" CreationDate="2017-01-21T17:49:16.750" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think I see what you're asking, but I think you may be thinking about it incorrectly.  It's really all about heat being added to the system at the same rate that it's leaving.  The heat block is there as a heat reservoir from which the filament draws heat for the glass transition.  The heat in that reservoir is maintained by cycling the heating coil to add energy (more heat) to the systems as it's lost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the very local vicinity of the nozzle, the temperature will decrease slightly as it's being transferred to the filament, but because the heat block is massive in comparison to that drain, and because the heat block is a good thermal conductor that temperature reduction is very small.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do not know what tolerance and hysteresis are built into the temp controller, but think the variation is likely small.  The difference in additional heat required (more energy into the system) for any practical difference in feed rates (40 instead of 60) is thus likely to be very small compared to the filament cooling experienced immediately after it leaves the nozzle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bottom line: the adjustment you would want to make is not to increase the temp, but increase the duty cycle of the heating element to maintain the desired temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4627" LastActivityDate="2017-01-21T17:49:16.750" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3454" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3431" CreationDate="2017-01-22T05:10:27.727" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Oh yeah, that's simple. You are printing too hot and are literally boiling the plastic. Else you have water. However if it was water you would hear Crackling as it printed. If it is too hot you will not hear nearly as much. I am 87.341% sure you are printing too hot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looking at your printing temps you are without a doubt printing too hot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.3dhubs.com/talk/thread/best-printing-practices-makerbot-replicator-2-and-2x&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;this link&lt;/a&gt; on 3d hubs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PLA (Only on Replicator 2) Print temp: 210°C (at 100m/s) Notes: heated&#xA;bed optional between 40 and 60°C&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;ABS (Only on Replicator 2X) Print&#xA;temp: 230°C (at 100m/s) Notes: heated bed at 110°C&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2146" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:29:41.667" LastActivityDate="2017-01-22T05:10:27.727" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3456" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-01-23T03:30:55.543" Score="4" ViewCount="3164" Body="&lt;p&gt;I got a new MKS 1.4 controller board and it came with A4988 driver chips.  But I can't figure out which way they install.  I found something saying to match the printing on the back of the chip to that on the board.  But I don't see anything that matches.  Suggestions?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dQers.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dQers.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Rear of A4988 breakout board&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RdjAB.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RdjAB.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Close up of MKS 1.4 A4988 socket&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5510" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2017-06-14T14:51:25.823" LastActivityDate="2017-06-14T14:51:25.823" Title="Motor driver chip install direction?" Tags="|stepper-driver|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3457" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3070" CreationDate="2017-01-23T23:45:59.370" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would suggest using &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.meshlab.net/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Meshlab&lt;/a&gt;. You can convert from &lt;code&gt;.stl&lt;/code&gt; to &lt;code&gt;.off&lt;/code&gt; and you can try other operations for quick results too, instead of diving to code for mesh manipulation. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5751" LastActivityDate="2017-01-23T23:45:59.370" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3461" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-01-24T23:27:06.750" Score="7" ViewCount="1234" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am making a &quot;fun button&quot;, with a dome-shaped top. The vertical sides, top center, and raised lettering seem fine, but the more sloped outer parts of the dome are very thin, with some gaps and the infill pattern is quite visible. It's almost like the slicer isn't recognizing the sloped part as an exterior shell. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is causing this, and how can I fix it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cU2IR.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cU2IR.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;My Fun Button&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The model was made in Fusion 360, sliced in Repetier with Slic3r, and printed on a Monoprice Maker Select Mini.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: More information after checking values used and taking more photos.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This was my second attempt, after increasing the shell count already.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On my first print, I clearly had a low value for horizontal shells, top and bottom were both at the default of 3. I upped these  both to 8. (Layer height is 0.13125.)  The bottom of the button is now good. The &quot;good&quot; center area extends a little further out, so I think it's probably thicker up at the top of the dome. But the sloped sides are pretty much the same - this is why I'm thinking it's not being considered as a &quot;horizontal shell&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Comparison:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6C7aX.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6C7aX.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;bottom of buttons&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SgwOd.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SgwOd.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;top of buttons&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are some design iterations, but the top surface is the same shape.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did a print using Cura, with 0.8 mm shells, and it looks great!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/D4iC5.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/D4iC5.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Printed with Cura&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I cut the two bad prints with a hacksaw to see a cross-section. The bottom is clearly thicker. The top on the outer infill void is pretty much the same. The top on the other void is thicker most of the way across, but suddenly changes to thin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/A27aV.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/A27aV.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Cross section&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5704" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2017-01-31T13:19:19.960" LastActivityDate="2017-01-31T16:54:08.237" Title="Why does my domed print have a thin shell?" Tags="|print-quality|slic3r|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3462" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3461" CreationDate="2017-01-25T12:27:43.417" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Slice with more solid top layers. I always use five with low-density infill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4922" LastActivityDate="2017-01-25T12:27:43.417" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3465" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3466" CreationDate="2017-01-25T20:09:41.100" Score="8" ViewCount="109" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is an option in Slic3r to disable cooling for layers that take more than n seconds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What would be the disadvantages of having cooling on big layers ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5567" LastActivityDate="2017-01-25T20:23:15.273" Title="Cooling for big layers" Tags="|slicing|slic3r|cooling|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3466" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3465" CreationDate="2017-01-25T20:23:15.273" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Warping. Especially with materials like ABS, you want the plastic to cool down as gradually (and slowly) as possible, to prevent the print from warping as the cooling plastic contracts. On small layers, cooling is usually mandatory: with really small layers, you just end up with a big glob of molten plastic if the previous layer hasn't solidified enough before the next layer is put on top.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You want &lt;em&gt;just enough&lt;/em&gt; cooling that the plastic holds its shape, but no more than that. On a large layer, the plastic cools enough naturally without help from a fan.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastActivityDate="2017-01-25T20:23:15.273" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3467" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3456" CreationDate="2017-01-25T20:25:45.943" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The below image was taken from &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/3D-printer-control-board-motherboard-MKS-Gen-V1-1-RepRap-Ramps1-4-compatible/1047297_2030818114.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;their AliExpress shop page&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately, I don't manage to find the datasheet or schematic to give more technical advice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Hs1AF.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Hs1AF.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5567" LastEditorUserId="5567" LastEditDate="2017-01-26T15:46:08.580" LastActivityDate="2017-01-26T15:46:08.580" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3469" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2607" CreationDate="2017-01-26T10:06:53.680" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Slic3r, and all other slicers that I saw, have an option called &lt;code&gt;Skirt&lt;/code&gt; that enables your printer to print a number of lines around your object before it starts printing the object itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This should ensure that both the nozzle is filled with filament and the printer got rid of any burned / dirty filament when it starts printing your object.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you use Slic3r as standalone, you have to activate expert mode in the preferences. If you use it through Repetier-host it should already be in expert mode.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can see all available options in the &lt;a href=&quot;http://manual.slic3r.org/expert-mode/skirt&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Slic3r documentation for Skirt&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5567" LastEditorUserId="5567" LastEditDate="2017-01-26T15:40:16.233" LastActivityDate="2017-01-26T15:40:16.233" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3470" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3504" CreationDate="2017-01-26T10:30:00.143" Score="2" ViewCount="3399" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Tronxy P802M (very similar to the Anet A8, but using a Melzi2.0V5 board) that seems to work fine (I just finished building, and axes movement and the integrated display work) but when I try to connect to the printer from my Simplify3D on Windows 10, I get the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;[...]&#xA;  Connected to machine!&#xA;SENT: T0&#xA;READ: ok 0&#xA;READ: wait&#xA;SENT: M105&#xA;READ: ok 0&#xA;READ: T:24.44 /0 B:23.33 /0 B@:0 @:0&#xA;  Connection failed.&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My other printers all connect fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5758" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-07-26T08:48:51.427" LastActivityDate="2019-07-26T08:48:51.427" Title="I can not really connect successfully to my printer via USB" Tags="|software|electronics|simplify3d|usb|tronxy-p802|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3471" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3481" CreationDate="2017-01-26T16:32:33.657" Score="6" ViewCount="2420" Body="&lt;p&gt;I received a Monoprice Maker Select v2 (I3 V2 clone) from my wife for Christmas.  The sample .gcode files that came with the printer generally print great with no noticeable defects.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, when I try to print miniatures for use with table-top gaming (D&amp;amp;D, primarily), I tend to get a lot of oozing and stringing.  On top of that, bridge supports don't cool in time and tend to get fudged by the print nozzle, which results in oddities like arms being only half printed, sticking to the nozzle, and getting relocated to some other part of the print.  If I use full grid supports with the most modest fill settings (8%) they end up being stronger than the miniature and are a real pain to remove.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My printer is calibrated, as level as can be (the desk it's on is slightly warped but I've got the printer in the center of the warp; there is no wobble or lean) and squared.  The build plate is calibrated and set to the right height. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm using the version of Cura that came on the SD card with the printer (honestly not sure which one and I'm not at home to check).  I've fiddled with print speed, extruder temp (ranging from 185 to 210), layer cooling, retraction settings, and tried switching to Slic3r (didn't go over well -- couldn't even get past the first layer).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm using Hatchbox silver PLA filament (1.75mm +/- 0.05mm).  I don't have another filament I can test with to compare performance. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even when I import the profile settings from one of the sample .gcode files I tend to end up with blobbing, pulling, and stringing all over the miniatures, in addition to missing or deformed parts.  Notably, arms and hands -- most often overhangs -- tend to stick to the hotend and get repositioned, sending the whole thing out of whack.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I end up with similar problems when I use the Novice mode settings in Cura (Normal Quality, High Quality, etc).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there something I'm missing that I can do to improve the quality of small, detailed prints, or is the I3, as an entry-level printer, simply not up to the task?  I'm especially interested in answers from users who have experience printing miniatures and their experiences in tuning for that type of print job.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A few things I've tried test printing:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:704409&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Printer calibration test model v1&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1363023&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Printer calibration test model v3&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both of these came out very stringy, with lots of blobbing and layer pulling, especially towards the upper portions of the taller elements.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have also tried printing these two models:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.shapeways.com/product/YDCPJF8KV/knight?optionId=59811831&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Knight with sword - high detail&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.shapeways.com/product/4Y699HM6N/elf-monk?optionId=61531553&amp;amp;li=marketplace&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Elf monk - high detail&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All test prints of these two models had at least one missing hand due to it getting stuck to the hotend and pulling off the part, and both demonstrated lots of minor blobbing and pulling on otherwise smooth surfaces, with loss of detail in the more finely detailed areas.  Here's a sample of the output for the knight model.  Please ignore the fact that he has been dismembered, that was mostly my fiddling with it post-printing (I guess I don't know my own strength), though the left hand was not well-attached and fell off rather easily.  He was printed with both hands and feet/base intact, but you can see the blobbing and pulling pretty well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/T4pth.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/T4pth.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5782" LastEditorUserId="5782" LastEditDate="2017-01-26T20:39:09.280" LastActivityDate="2022-11-15T00:19:59.480" Title="Why are my prints so defective?" Tags="|prusa-i3|print-quality|slicing|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3472" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3473" CreationDate="2017-01-26T17:13:26.313" Score="6" ViewCount="5191" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/2820/5782&quot;&gt;In this answer&lt;/a&gt; user &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/4345/barafu-albino&quot;&gt;Barafu&lt;/a&gt; says,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Yet I manage to keep my tolerances +- 0.05 mm which is enough for everything but miniature printing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have asked for clarification on that answer regarding what is meant by &quot;miniature printing&quot; but in the meantime, I want to ask the general question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What impact does dimensional accuracy of filament have on final print quality, and why?  Does it vary between different filament types? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5782" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-07-26T08:29:46.633" LastActivityDate="2023-12-03T13:33:07.463" Title="How important is the dimensional accuracy of filament relative to the detail of a print?" Tags="|filament|filament-quality|dimensional-accuracy|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3473" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3472" CreationDate="2017-01-26T18:05:06.023" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Dimensional accuracy is not as important as dimensional uniformity. I can print with undersized (or oversized) filament, adjusting the flow appropriately, provided the filament has a consistent diameter. When creating filament in-house, without expensive equipment, it is difficult to maintain the same diameter throughout the entire extrusion. It is likely this extrusion diameter (when creating filament, rather than the output of the actual print head) to which Barafu is referring when he mentions his tolerances: +/- 0.05&amp;nbsp;mm &lt;em&gt;in diameter&lt;/em&gt;. Which is reasonable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &quot;miniature printing&quot; comment likely refers to printing miniature models for tabletop gaming.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the source filament becomes wider than expected, the output will have overflow, or more material than desired will be deposited, and this will certainly affect the quality of the piece.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4922" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-07-26T08:36:44.100" LastActivityDate="2019-07-26T08:36:44.100" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="3474" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3471" CreationDate="2017-01-26T20:12:45.603" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an Alunar(Anet) Prusa i3 printer I bought from amazon 7 months ago. I have not done much for ultra high detail prints, but it does seem to print everything I've thrown at it quite well. It took sometime for me to get it dialed in. I've found that &lt;strong&gt;Bed Level, Z-axis height,&lt;/strong&gt; and &lt;strong&gt;Print Speed&lt;/strong&gt; are usually what makes the most difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have only used Inland PLA (Microcenter brand) and can get good quality prints. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would recommend double checking bed level, z-axis, and going through print quality trouble shooting. Re-measure your PLA thickness and make sure your print multiplier is adjusted appropriately, and try to slow down your print speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you could post a link to a sample file that you're trying to print It may be helpful?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Simplify 3D has a wonderful trouble shooting guide you can check out &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5757" LastActivityDate="2017-01-26T20:12:45.603" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3476" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3351" CreationDate="2017-01-27T16:49:49.240" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You will have to:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Find and print something on Thingiverse to mount sensor;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Change firmware to Skynet and change the offset values accordingly, in order for the new sensor to recognize the bed.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is official Facebook page of Anet A8 printers as well as Skynet firmware. You can ask there if you need further help. Though the above steps are easy. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5794" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2017-05-09T01:34:06.943" LastActivityDate="2017-05-09T01:34:06.943" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3478" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-01-27T21:13:59.703" Score="1" ViewCount="176" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is the best medium/material for printing an anatomic model for educational or study purposes? Specifically, I'm interested in printing intricate head and neck bony anatomy that requires fine detail to look at important holes and &quot;cracks&quot;/fissures. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5798" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2018-09-16T12:49:18.133" LastActivityDate="2018-09-16T12:49:18.133" Title="What is the best material for printing an anatomic bone model?" Tags="|print-quality|3d-design|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3479" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-01-27T21:31:13.130" Score="1" ViewCount="616" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to flash the repetier Firmware to my Prusa i3 3D Printer, which uses Melzi 2.0 board. I uploaded it successfully 2 days ago with same settings but now is failing always.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;@avrdude -p m1284p -b57600 -c arduino -P COM%x% -e -U flash:w:%filename%.hex&#xA;avrdude: AVR device initialized and ready to accept instructions&#xA;Reading | ################################################## | 100% 0.02s&#xA;avrdude: Device signature = 0x1e9705 (probably m1284p)&#xA;avrdude: erasing chip&#xA;avrdude: reading input file &quot;newa.hex&quot;&#xA;avrdude: input file newa.hex auto detected as Intel Hex&#xA;avrdude: writing flash (114266 bytes):&#xA;Writing |                                                    | 0% 0.00s&#xA;avrdude: stk500_paged_write(): (a) protocol error, expect=0x14, resp=0x64 &#xA;avrdude: stk500_recv(): programmer is not responding &#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do I solve this problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5787" LastActivityDate="2017-03-01T13:35:05.130" Title="Melzi v3b firmware flash" Tags="|firmware|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3480" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3478" CreationDate="2017-01-27T22:48:17.520" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Stack Exchange discourages &quot;best&quot; type questions, as any answers are going to be opinion based. There are going to be more opinions than types of materials and types of printing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your question regarding specifics is more on the mark, however, and has less to do with material than with method.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Consider that resin based printing, especially SLA printers will provide extremely fine detail at extremely fine prices. SLA printers are more commonly used for smaller models such as jewelry and dental applications.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;SLS, Selective Laser Sintering is capable of nearly as detailed work as SLA and is better suited for larger models. One can contract for SLS work on the major 3D printing services. Pricing for SLS is also &quot;up there.&quot; Use The Google to locate 3D printer services for a suitable resource.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the FDM world, you'll find lower costs and lower resolution. My printer is capable of 0.100 mm layer thickness, which means barely visible layer lines, but they are still quite obvious, especially on sloped or slanted surfaces. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suggest that you find a small scale or segment of the part you wish to have printed and send it off for sample returns in the above formats.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As an option, once you have the parts, you could consider to use them to create molds and cast in resin as many copies as you would need.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastActivityDate="2017-01-27T22:48:17.520" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3481" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3471" CreationDate="2017-01-28T18:31:09.950" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've not done much miniatures printing, but I have the same printer and I happen to have the exact same filament loaded.  Also, I've been doing a lot of tuning lately, including &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:921948&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this z-brace mod&lt;/a&gt; which has improved my overall print quality, so I thought I'd take a pass at printing the Knight from your photos and sharing my findings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/U7h8L.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;I've posted a series of pictures&lt;/a&gt; to show my findings.  Overall, I'd say my print quality was better than what you showed in your photos, but still isn't good enough.  I sliced with Cura 15.04.6, and printed from SD card.  Here are my (Full) settings:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Layer height (mm)         : 0.1&#xA;Shell thickness (mm)      : 0.5&#xA;Enable retraction         : Yes&#xA;Bottom/Top thickness (mm) : 0.3&#xA;Fill Density (%)          : 20&#xA;Print Speed (mm/s)        : 20&#xA;Printing Temperature (C)  : 210&#xA;Bed Temperature (C)       : 67&#xA;Support Type              : Everywhere&#xA;Platform Adhesion         : None&#xA;Skirts                    : 3&#xA;Filament Diameter (mm)    : 1.75&#xA;Filament Flow (%)         : 100.0&#xA;Nozzle size (mm)          : 0.5&#xA;&#xA;Retract Speed (mm/s)      : 40.0&#xA;Retract Distance (mm)     : 7&#xA;Initial Layer Thick (mm)  : 0.2&#xA;Initial Later width (%)   : 100&#xA;Cut off object bottom (mm): 0.0&#xA;Travel Speed (mm/s)       : 100&#xA;Bottom Layer Speed (mm/s) : 20&#xA;Infill speed (mm/s)       : 50&#xA;Top/bottom speed (mm/s)   : 20&#xA;Outer Shell speed (mm/s)  : 20&#xA;Inner Shell speed (mm/s)  : 20&#xA;Min. Layer Time (sec)     : 10&#xA;Enable cooling fan        : Yes&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do most of my printing with a later height of 0.2mm, but for a detailed mini, 0.1mm is probably the largest that will look good (and probably the smallest possible on this printer.  I normally set most of my speeds to 50 mm/s, with first layer at 20 mm/s; for this I slowed it all to 20 mm/s due to the fine details, and I think it helped.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Temps of 67˚C bed and 210˚C extruder are what I've found to work best on my machine for PLA, after much experimentation, but your machine may vary; I'm not sure how accurate the temperature measurements are on these machines.  67˚C gives me an observed bed temp of 60˚C, but that's at the top surface - I have PEI atop Borosilicate glass, adhered to the bare aluminum bed with silicone-based heat transfer pad.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think I miscalculated the top/bottom heights and infill.  I'm not used to printing at 0.1mm layer height, but 3 top layers over 20% infill is clearly not enough - see the closeup of the mini's base in my linked gallery.  Next print, I'll either try 0.6mm top/bottom, or much higher infill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The supports came off easily; I used &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B00FZPDG1K&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;a pair of sidecutters from my electronics bench&lt;/a&gt;.  A little more cleanup with a sharp hobby knife, combined with a better base top layer would probably produce an acceptable result.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There were two major flaws.  The first are the little blobs on many layers; see for example the inseam area on the picture of the knight's back.  &lt;a href=&quot;https://softsolder.com/2012/01/26/reversal-zits-speed-acceleration-and-a-bestiary/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Ed Nisley at Softsolder.com calls these &amp;quot;Reveral Zits&amp;quot;&lt;/a&gt;, and I think the name is apt.  These happen when the print head needs to quickly reverse direction or stop-move-print, but filament continues to extrude.  I use fairly aggressive retraction settings, and I think my print shows smaller zits than yours, but still far too many.  Ed has explored this topic in some depth; it's possible my extruder stepper isn't keeping up with my settings due to mechanical limits.  This is an area I want to pursue, but I don't have time at the moment.  I plan to read Ed's work and try some experiments on my machine to see if I can get better results; I will update this answer if/when I do.  As it stands, most of them are quite small, and could probably be cleaned up with a knife; the worst are those around unsupported areas, such as the back of the shoulder guard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The second major flaw is the helmet.  It's just... bad.  I'm not sure the printer has much hope of nailing those horns, but overall the head is just bad.  I'm not sure what can be done there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To summarize:  @disc0ninja's advice on Bed Level and Print speed are certainly the right place to start; You might want to try my Cura settings to see if you get similar results.  Also, the Z-brace mod I linked to above has made a big difference for me; I rarely have to adjust my leveling anymore.  I also plan to try slicing with Slic3r, which I haven't used previously, but have been looking into.  You mentioned you couldn't print with Slic3r, was that USB or SD Card?  I'd suggest trying via SD if it failed during USB printing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update 30 Jan 2017:&lt;/strong&gt;  It took a little doing, but I managed to slice and print this model via slic3r.  &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/3482/slicer-reports-1000s-of-errors-not-seen-in-cura-render-is-missing-big-chunks&quot;&gt;I had some issues with the original STL in slic3er&lt;/a&gt;, which I ended up fixing with a free trial at makeprintable.com.  I spent a lot of time fiddling with slic3r; it has a lot more knobs to turn than Cura, and I make no claims of having the best settings for this print.  There are so many settings that rather than transcribe them here, I've captured them in my &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eCTmT.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;pictures of the slic3er print&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SdOHm.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Layers and perimeters&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SdOHm.png&quot; alt=&quot;Layers and perimeters&quot; title=&quot;Layers and perimeters&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sIM3D.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Infill&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sIM3D.png&quot; alt=&quot;Infill&quot; title=&quot;Infill&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pvXlJ.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Skirt and Brim&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pvXlJ.png&quot; alt=&quot;Skirt and Brim&quot; title=&quot;Skirt and Brim&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cHSzp.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Support material&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cHSzp.png&quot; alt=&quot;Support material&quot; title=&quot;Support material&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vT0pN.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Speed&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vT0pN.png&quot; alt=&quot;Speed&quot; title=&quot;Speed&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7QK3c.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Multiple extruders&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7QK3c.png&quot; alt=&quot;Multiple extruders&quot; title=&quot;Multiple extruders&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0AITv.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Advanced&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0AITv.png&quot; alt=&quot;Advanced&quot; title=&quot;Advanced&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/13mnS.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Cooling&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/13mnS.png&quot; alt=&quot;Cooling&quot; title=&quot;Cooling&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/60F2W.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Filament&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/60F2W.png&quot; alt=&quot;Filament&quot; title=&quot;Filament&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Overall, I feel like the quality is higher.  The &amp;quot;reversal zits&amp;quot; are hardly noticeable; but the big remaining problem is one I didn't fully diagnose in the original Cura print - lack of support for areas such as the shoulders.  Slic3r added more support than Cura, but it's also harder to separate from the base.  The head isn't great, but much better than the Cura print; I don't think my photos show it as well as it looks.  &lt;strong&gt;This print has convinced me that there's plenty of quality still to be wrung from this printer&lt;/strong&gt;; I hope to make time to do some more slic3r prints of this model while tweaking the params to see what's possible.  If I make any big leaps in quality I will update this answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2541" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2022-11-15T00:19:59.480" LastActivityDate="2022-11-15T00:19:59.480" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="3482" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-01-29T00:21:44.513" Score="1" ViewCount="462" Body="&lt;p&gt;Brand new to Slic3r, I've been using Cura for a while, so not sure is happening.  I tried to load &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.shapeways.com/product/YDCPJF8KV/knight&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this Knight model&lt;/a&gt; into Slic3er (v1.2.9 running on OS X), and it's reporting &quot;Manifold: auto-repaired (11430 errors)&quot;, and the model looks incomplete.  Hovering the model with the mouse shows more details:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hb2DY.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hb2DY.png&quot; alt=&quot;Slic3r Screenshot&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Preview mode shows supports holding up the head, so I don't think it's just a screen rendering issue.  But I loaded this same model into Cura earlier today, and it worked just fine; I've printed the resulting GCode.  So I believe the model is fine.  I wanted to print using Slic3r and compare the results. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this a known issue with certain types of models?  Not sure what to try next.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2541" LastActivityDate="2017-01-29T10:12:20.427" Title="Slicer reports 1000s of errors not seen in Cura; Render is missing big chunks" Tags="|slic3r|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3483" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3517" CreationDate="2017-01-29T02:11:14.410" Score="1" ViewCount="127" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am running the SeeMeCNC customized version of &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/seemecnc/Firmware&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Repetier&lt;/a&gt; on a Rostock Max V2. I have experienced this problem with both the stock configuration along with an E3D The Chimera. Sometimes, when I am printing and connect a mains device, my printer will fail in some way. The first time this happened I was printing with ABS, so I connected my fume sucker (A ~25-50W fan) to an outlet. However, when I connected it, the LCD showed garbled characters and my software (MatterControl) reported an error. Restarting the printer returned it to the previous state. I had a ~15 foot (coiled) extension cord connected to a 3-way splitter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Today, I connected a hot glue gun, and MatterControl reported that Repetier had switched to &quot;Printer set into dry run mode until restart!&quot; (no heat or extrusions). Looking at the firmware, this seems to be caused by a thermistor failure. I had everything plugged into the same setup as before, except for a surge protector at the end. The circuit that it is connected to has a 20A circuit breaker, with probably ~3A of it constantly used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My theory for this is that an additional device causes a slight fluctuation in the thermistor wires, causing an error to occur. However, the Rostock Max is designed so that wires are inside of aluminum tubes, which I think would provide EMF protection. The power supply is a generic 12V 30A power supply that was included in the kit, usually seen in LED strips. Both of these occurred while printing. I have ordered a UPS for the printer: would its under/over-voltage detection help? Are there any other solutions for this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5809" LastActivityDate="2017-02-02T18:32:51.033" Title="Print failing when connecting mains loads" Tags="|electronics|switching-power-supply|repetier|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3484" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3482" CreationDate="2017-01-29T08:16:45.757" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cura and Slic3r are very different programs. You will not get the exact same print between the two. I find that of late slic3r will try to fill holes when older versions do not. So even versions will not behave the same. I will say I have less issues with simplify 3d, but the price is very high.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Following. When this happens I attempt to repair the model. There is obviously some unresolved issues in the model. I use Netfabb which has been exported to &lt;a href=&quot;https://netfabb.azurewebsites.net/index.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this online tool.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Really though. I would ask for my money back ;-) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2146" LastActivityDate="2017-01-29T08:16:45.757" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3485" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3482" CreationDate="2017-01-29T10:12:20.427" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The problem with the model is that of the basic elements that make up the model (fundamentally these are triangles), you'll find some that either cross over, or some that don't touch. This is called &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.shapeways.com/tutorials/fixing-non-manifold-models&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;non manifold geometry&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The way this comes about is often by the designer dragging part of a model (to re-size it) in a way that one face of the model crosses into or out of another face. It is very common, and some of the slicers handle it better than others. Sometimes a tool can make a good job of repairing the model, sometimes it has to be fixed manually.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In fixing the model, a tool will be able to ignore small gaps and overlaps (which is fine, they are often below the print resolution anyway). Different tools will be more or less successful, it looks like your model here is a bit borderline for automated fixing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4927" LastActivityDate="2017-01-29T10:12:20.427" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3486" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3488" CreationDate="2017-01-29T13:38:04.857" Score="2" ViewCount="3142" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to print a text inside a box. I mean the text should be cut out (see through). Example:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8eBCN.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8eBCN.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you can see the parts in &quot;o&quot; and &quot;e&quot; cant float.. it needs some kind of a support. Also the top triangle in the M can't be printed without a support.&#xA;Here is something I found, I think this is what I need:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FV3V5.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FV3V5.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can you recommend me a font or some app to make these fonts printable the way I need it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The software I use is Simplify3D and all the free ones like cura. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5814" LastActivityDate="2017-01-29T18:37:26.607" Title="Font for cutting?" Tags="|3d-models|3d-design|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3487" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3490" CreationDate="2017-01-29T14:39:53.090" Score="5" ViewCount="866" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Wanhao Duplicator i3 v2 (A.K.A. Maker Select, Cocoon Create).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My extruder got clogged: I noticed that it wasn't extruding, so I stopped my print, removed the fan, heatsink and the extruder motor and I saw that the clog is at the heater block level.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a what I have:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uDyF2.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uDyF2.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Blocked extruder - no flash&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iL1mQ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iL1mQ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Blocked extruder - flash&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you can see, there is some PLA clogged at the very beginning of the 1.75mm hole in the extruder block.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can see there is something white inside (a stone? something that is &lt;strong&gt;not&lt;/strong&gt; PLA?). I tried to heat up the extruder to 250°C and pushing with an hex tool but the block did not move. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I solved a lot of clogged nozzle issues with the &lt;a href=&quot;https://printrbot.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/articles/202100554-How-to-Unclog-the-Hotend-The-Cold-Pull&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;cold pull method&lt;/a&gt;, it always worked like a charm, this time I tried too but as a result the PLA filament broke and the &quot;stone&quot; is still there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know if there is a way to unclog the extruder in this situation?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do I have to change it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5317" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2017-01-31T08:56:09.020" LastActivityDate="2017-01-31T16:20:08.727" Title="How to unclog a clogged extruder?" Tags="|filament|extruder|pla|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3488" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3486" CreationDate="2017-01-29T18:37:26.607" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I did a quick search using The Google with the terms &quot;stencil font.&quot; There were too many results to list here and the first link I clicked on provided some seriously ugly fonts. Stencil fonts by definition will result in supported center pieces. Windows has a native font named, surprisingly enough, Stencil which does the same, but it's not quite as imaginative as the ones found using The Google.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's an example from Font Squirell:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Octin Prison&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pJmH6.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pJmH6.png&quot; alt=&quot;Octin Prison Font&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How about something a bit more bizarre from the same location:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;VanBerger Font&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZB02V.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZB02V.png&quot; alt=&quot;VanBerger&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastActivityDate="2017-01-29T18:37:26.607" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3489" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="628" CreationDate="2017-01-30T00:12:21.640" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Beside vaporizing with heat, you can use an atomizer and do cold vapor. The time is around 1-5 minutes at 45ºC for a 10x10x20&amp;nbsp;mm piece like a Marvin or a bot. I have done only gangster tests with it, so I have no larger piece info.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Passive vapor polish does not work with chloroform since it tends to crack. It needs a fast flash on the outside only.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5819" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2017-06-01T15:53:08.870" LastActivityDate="2017-06-01T15:53:08.870" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3490" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3487" CreationDate="2017-01-30T11:08:00.497" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm sure this is not the best solution, and if you have some ethyl acetate you should try that before going &quot;the hard way&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ethyl acetate is a solvent for PLA, so if you soak the extruder into it PLA should melt and free the extruder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, this is the &quot;hard&quot; solution that worked for me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll need:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A drill&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A 1mm drill bit&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A 1.5mm drill bit&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Insert the 1mm drill bit into the drill. If your drill has a setting to reduce the drilling speed, take this to the minimum speed. If your drill doesn't have such options, you'll need to push the drill button very gently.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Put the drill bit on the pla block (be sure to not touch the cooling block, you might ruin it). Start drilling at the minimum speed and push very gently, until you get a side-to-side hole on the PLA (you know it because you feel no resistance at all while pushing the drill).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Take the 1.5mm drill bit and repeat the same operation. At this point my PLA block literally exploded (now I have some broken PLA inside my room, don't know where) and the extruder was finally free.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope this helps someone. Please notice that you need to be very gentle in order to avoid breaking parts of your extruder, but if I managed to do it, you can do it too ;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As previously said, if you have ethyl acetate try soaking the extruder into it to make PLA dissolve before trying this. Try this solution only if all other options didn't help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5317" LastActivityDate="2017-01-30T11:08:00.497" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3491" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3479" CreationDate="2017-01-30T13:25:48.903" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have had trouble before not using spacing between arguments. I think no spacing between &lt;code&gt;-b&lt;/code&gt; and &lt;code&gt;57600&lt;/code&gt; is causing the problem. Try&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;avrdude -p m1284p -b 57600 -c arduino -P COM%x% -e -U flash:w:%filename%.hex&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5809" LastActivityDate="2017-01-30T13:25:48.903" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3492" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3496" CreationDate="2017-01-30T13:42:55.383" Score="4" ViewCount="2124" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have seen many people saying on this site and many other 3D printing websites that 24 V systems are safer, compared to 12 V systems. By safer, I am talking in terms of fires or other electrical and component failures. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why would a 24 V system cause less danger? I would think that 12 V would be safer because it is very common (automotive) and many parts have been around for a while that use it. Although there are an increasingly amount of boards that support 24 V, many don't or need fuses or other parts that do support 24 V. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, many parts that I have used are rated for 12 - 24 V. A 12 V power supply can go a bit over fairly comfortably. A 24 V power supply can't without partially going over the rating.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I had to build a printer designed with safety as a main priority, what voltage would be best?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5809" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2017-01-31T12:47:23.707" LastActivityDate="2017-02-02T20:35:00.720" Title="Why would one choose 12 V from 24 V, from a safety standpoint?" Tags="|electronics|switching-power-supply|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3493" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-01-30T15:53:33.413" Score="5" ViewCount="1511" Body="&lt;p&gt;I print on a glass bed covered with BuildTak. Prints stick well, release is difficult. They sell a mod, self adhesive magnetic sheet that holds a steel plate which in turn you put the BuildTak on making it easier to get your prints off by twisting the flexible steel as opposed to chiseling your print off a glass plate while attempting to not peel chunks of the expensive Buildtak off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Magnetic sheets have different strengths proportional to thickness in milimeters. I can get 0.03 mm locally which provides 85 lbs pull per sqft. and was wondering if this might work. It's hard to find the stronger pulls, 0.045 mm and 0.06 mm which can pull 115 and 145 lbs respectively.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd prefer cut my own new bed sandwich rather than pay 90 bucks for one. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Has anyone made a bed using adhesive magnetic sheet&gt; &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What thickness magnetic sheet has worked for you? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What thickness steel are you using? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assume it has to flex easily to twist the part of and also flexible enough for the magnet to pull it flat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With respect to &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/3493/bed-design-for-easy-release-pla#comment4773_3493&quot;&gt;the comment&lt;/a&gt; by tbm0115:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I don't think you need that much magnetic pull for this application. Adhering basic coin magnets to a material in a large array should secure the material appropriately for a desktop printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I see where you are going with coin magnets. Have you tried this? In the original Makerbot Cupcake this is how it was done though with larger build surfaces you get warp on metal plates. Most metal sheet comes from the plant on a roll. Though your metal looks nice and flat, temperature changes will cause it to warp and as you know with SLA printers, a changing bed can cause a failure. This happened on the original Makerbot replicator 1st release followed by using a machined plate as a replacement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5825" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T13:00:58.447" LastActivityDate="2017-03-07T18:50:52.187" Title="Bed design for magnetic easy release when printing PLA" Tags="|pla|makerbot|surface|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3494" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3492" CreationDate="2017-01-30T15:58:19.673" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;From a pure safety standpoint there is nothing about a 24v system that is distrinctly more safe than a 12v system. I see you added comments about something involving wire sizes. This is not really a factor.. I would say not knowing what wire size to use is a whole other issue. There is nothing stopping you from putting on larger wires. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The following websites verify the fact that a 24v needs smaller wires. Though again the system it self is not safer because the wires required are smaller.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/document.do?docId=1098&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;JamesTown&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://sdcsecurity.com/docs/PDFs/wiregaugecharts_ohmslaw.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;SDC minimum wire gauge to distance chart&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I will also note the size difference is negligible anyways. It is not a major difference. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now one exception to this. If you had a 24v and a 12v compatible board. I would pick a 24v. The reason is not that the wire sizes needed are different. But for the reduced danger of the CONNECTOR that the wires attach to. I see quite often in the flashforge owner group boards that have caught fire due to a cheap connector that can not handle the load for the printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2146" LastEditorUserId="2146" LastEditDate="2017-02-02T20:35:00.720" LastActivityDate="2017-02-02T20:35:00.720" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3495" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-01-30T18:52:08.427" Score="3" ViewCount="4861" Body="&lt;p&gt;We have stepper motors with these specs:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1200 mA&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;4 V&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;3.2 kg • cm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are these enough for building a Prusa i3 3D printer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(I live in Turkey and these are the specs of the NEMA 17 they sell in here)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5826" LastEditorUserId="5826" LastEditDate="2017-02-01T13:04:12.683" LastActivityDate="2019-07-26T07:09:50.987" Title="Stepper Motor for Prusa i3" Tags="|motor|stepper|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3496" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3492" CreationDate="2017-01-30T22:05:19.060" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;The most important &quot;safety&quot; advantage when using 24V (compared to 12V) is that to get the same power, you only need half the current. A 192W heated bed would need 16A at 12V, but only 8A at 24V.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since one of the most common safety issues is underrated screw terminals being used for the heated bed (just search for &quot;3d printer fire&quot;; you'll find quite a few pictures of charred plastic around screw terminals). For example, the screw terminals on RAMPs board are only rated for up to 12A. That would be okay at 24V, but well over the limit at 12V.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since the wire gauge is dependent on current, you can also use somewhat thinner wires with a 24V system (or equivalently: wires that would melt in a 12V setup won't in a 24V setup). The power dissipated in a wire scales quadratically with current, so the same wire being used in a 24V setup would only waste a quarter of the heat of that wire in a 12V setup. There is also less strain on switching devices (such as MOSFETs or relays). The same applies here: power loss is quadratic with current.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastActivityDate="2017-01-30T22:05:19.060" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3497" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3487" CreationDate="2017-01-30T23:48:03.673" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Steps:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Take the tip off, assuming it has a tip.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Heat up the extruder.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Take a length of plastic and push it though the extruder.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If the tip is clogged, then take a micro hand drill to clear the blockage.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2146" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2017-01-31T15:54:44.097" LastActivityDate="2017-01-31T15:54:44.097" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3498" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3495" CreationDate="2017-01-31T03:51:41.237" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Awful answer, I know, but it depends... on where you are going to employ them:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;are they are all, or just some, of the axes, or;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;just for the extruder?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If they are for use in translating movement of the axes, then the weights of:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the y-axis plate;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the x-axis carriage, and;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the print head,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;will all come into play - amongst many other things.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With a torque of just 32 N • cm&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;, they seem, at first glance, to be a little underpowered - a torque of 44 N • cm (4.5 kg·cm) is the recommended minimum. Also, the current, of 1.2 A, seems to be a tad on the low side, 1.5 - 1.8 A is recommended.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are some great resources on the &lt;a href=&quot;http://reprap.org/wiki/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;RepRapWiki&lt;/a&gt;. See:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://reprap.org/wiki/NEMA_17_Stepper_motor&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;NEMA 17 stepper motor&lt;/a&gt;, and;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://reprap.org/wiki/Stepper_motor&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Stepper motor&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The minimum (recommended) specifications, for a Nema 17 stepper motor, are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1.5 A to 1.8 A current per phase&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 to 4 V&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;3 to 8 mH inductance per phase&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;44 N·cm (62 oz·in, 4.5 kg·cm) or more holding torque&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1.8° or 0.9° per step (200/400 steps/rev respectively)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may be able to get yours to work, but is it worth the hassle, just to save a few quid? Best to get the recommended, and most popular steppers, which are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Kysan 1124090/42BYGH4803;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rattm 17HS8401, and;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wantai 42BYGHW609&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously, you &lt;em&gt;don't have to&lt;/em&gt; use one of these three motors - other stepper motors can be used. On the &lt;a href=&quot;http://reprap.org/wiki/NEMA_17_Stepper_motor&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Nema 17 Stepper motor&lt;/a&gt; link, above, there is a table of a number of stepper motors, of various makes and models, that have been proven to work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Further Reading&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?41,219920&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Motors&lt;/a&gt;, a thread on the RepRap forums - specifically for the Prusa Mendel v2, so not entirely related to the i3, as the steppers for the &lt;em&gt;z&lt;/em&gt;-axis are less than those for the &lt;em&gt;x&lt;/em&gt; and &lt;em&gt;y&lt;/em&gt; axes, but it is a good informative read nevertheless.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; I assume that you actually mean &lt;em&gt;either&lt;/em&gt; 32 N • cm, &lt;em&gt;or&lt;/em&gt; 3.2 kg • cm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4762" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:29:41.667" LastActivityDate="2019-07-26T07:09:50.987" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="3500" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3487" CreationDate="2017-01-31T16:20:08.727" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This may not help, but I have a printrbot and when it clogs I heat up the extroder to 210C(for pla) or whatever the normal temperature is. Then manually push your filament through the hole till it's as far as it can go, then drop the hotend temp to 100 degrees C. When it is at 100C pull the whole filament out and hopefully your clog will come out too. After that just cut off the end of the filiment that has the clog on it. And you're good to go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5841" LastActivityDate="2017-01-31T16:20:08.727" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3501" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3461" CreationDate="2017-01-31T16:54:08.237" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can either increase the shells, or you can increase the infill density. In addition different fill patterns will help. I would do 4 minimum for such a print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2146" LastActivityDate="2017-01-31T16:54:08.237" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3502" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-02-01T02:38:15.393" Score="1" ViewCount="120" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking for information on how to make a steel mold from 3D print model using high detailed Resin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My model is a custom made figurine/mininature of 6 inch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can anyone share companies that can make high detailed steel molds either in US or China.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks,&#xA;-Uday.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5846" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2018-09-16T12:49:11.520" LastActivityDate="2018-09-16T12:49:11.520" Title="How to make a steel mold from a 3D print in high detailed resin?" Tags="|print-quality|3d-models|3d-design|resolution|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2017-02-01T08:24:04.863" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3503" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3502" CreationDate="2017-02-01T03:01:47.020" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Unless you have proven demand, you should start with aluminum tooling. It's &lt;em&gt;much&lt;/em&gt; cheaper than steel, and (I'm assuming you want this for injection molding) you can produce quite a decent amount of parts from aluminum tooling if you handle it carefully.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why do you want your tooling to be based on a 3D print model? Typically, for greatest accuracy, the tool and die company works from your original CAD work that you printed the 3D model from.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In terms of companies, Protolabs does plastic injection molding: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.protolabs.com/injection-molding/plastic-injection-molding/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.protolabs.com/injection-molding/plastic-injection-molding/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4935" LastActivityDate="2017-02-01T03:01:47.020" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3504" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3470" CreationDate="2017-02-01T06:12:59.283" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.simplify3d.com/support/faq/#faq-4630&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Simplify3D support site&lt;/a&gt; mentions to disable the &quot;wait for startup command&quot; option in the firmware configuration for S3D.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This allows me to make a rudimentary connection to control the printer, however e.g. during the bed levelling wizard of S3D, the connection still breaks off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It works reliably with Octoprint. I'll consider that good enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5758" LastEditorUserId="5758" LastEditDate="2017-04-21T17:10:24.293" LastActivityDate="2017-04-21T17:10:24.293" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3505" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3470" CreationDate="2017-02-01T14:02:10.757" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are using a USB 3 port to connect the printer to your PC, try connecting via a USB 2 hub.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My Vector 3 will not work on a USB 3 port, only on a USB 2 or lower.  The device correctly mounts and presents but serial communication fails.  One of my laptops only has USB 3 ports on it, so to work around the limitation I connect via a cheap USB 2 hub. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have heard that many 3D printers use a similar USB to UART / serial connector chip and that they suffer from similar limitations as a result.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4437" LastActivityDate="2017-02-01T14:02:10.757" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3506" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3509" CreationDate="2017-02-01T16:11:42.370" Score="2" ViewCount="124" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am calibrating my Kossel XL with a new Marlin firmware changing the &lt;code&gt;MANUAL_Z_HOME_POS&lt;/code&gt; since I have modified my print bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I change the value in the Marlin code and upload it through Arduino (the editor on Windows 10). It has worked many times before with the exact same version of Arduino.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I then use Pronterface and issue &lt;code&gt;G28&lt;/code&gt; (home all) followed by &lt;code&gt;G1 Z30&lt;/code&gt; (just to be on the safe side) it shows that Marlin wasn't uploaded at all. It is a the same height as before. It's a 22.2 mm difference so it is easy to see.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I have tried restarting the Arduino board before and after upload. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I have tried unplugging the USB cable before and after upload.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I also tried two different USB ports.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The computer has been rebooted.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I have examined the Arduino editor's settings, so it uploads to the correct destination (COM3 in my case). It is as it should be. It, of course, reports &quot;upload complete&quot;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What can be the cause of this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5395" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2017-02-10T12:26:13.873" LastActivityDate="2017-02-10T12:26:13.873" Title="How come firmware isn't uploaded?" Tags="|firmware|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3507" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3508" CreationDate="2017-02-01T16:43:29.490" Score="12" ViewCount="15161" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am planing on printing something that will make contact with PCB boards. The print will be most likely to be in PLA. I don't want to fry the PCB board so I want to know if 3D printed PLA objects are conductive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I googled and found out about special non-conductive PLA and conductive PLA. But what about the conductivity of normal PLA?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5475" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2018-09-16T12:19:01.897" LastActivityDate="2020-09-20T20:32:15.833" Title="Is PLA filament conductive?" Tags="|filament|pla|material|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3508" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3507" CreationDate="2017-02-01T17:57:52.177" Score="18" Body="&lt;p&gt;Normal PLA is non-conductive. You can take an &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$\Omega$&lt;/span&gt;-meter to a test part if you're really concerned somehow you have some PLA that is conductive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a caveat that your color may include metal flake or graphite of some kind. Depending on the density it may be conductive. But I've tested my silver on hand and it gave me infinite resistance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5857" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2020-09-20T20:32:15.833" LastActivityDate="2020-09-20T20:32:15.833" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="3509" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3506" CreationDate="2017-02-02T02:51:33.367" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are you sure that the firmware is not being uploaded?&#xA;You can debug this changing the &lt;code&gt;STRING_VERSION&lt;/code&gt; on &lt;code&gt;Configurations.h&lt;/code&gt;.&#xA;If the version is not being changed, I would suggest trying to use another computer to upload the firmware or even another board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5861" LastActivityDate="2017-02-02T02:51:33.367" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3510" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3516" CreationDate="2017-02-02T09:03:13.320" Score="3" ViewCount="1099" Body="&lt;p&gt;I intend and would like to print a transparent hemisphere. I have a Taulman T-Glase clear 1.75 mm filament and I have XTC-3D.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can read this interesting page, &lt;a href=&quot;http://taulman3d.com/t-glase-optics.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Hacking t-glase to look more like glass!&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First question, what kind of printing settings should I use? Should I go for a low infill percentage or a high one? Should I go for line or hexagon? I would say 5% line but perhaps there is a better setting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then, how should I use XTC-3D as mentioned on the above link? I'm a little bit confused how it can make the part more transparent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5573" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2017-02-05T16:26:45.257" LastActivityDate="2018-09-18T12:35:56.317" Title="FDM: Clear=transparent part" Tags="|filament|fdm|smoothing|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3511" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="91" CreationDate="2017-02-02T09:26:20.813" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;This naturally depends on the ultimate pressure you require. I have made a few tests with LEGO pieces (ABS) in vacuum and reached 10&lt;sup&gt;-5&lt;/sup&gt; mbar without problems. I did not try to go any lower.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Otherwise, have a look here: &lt;a href=&quot;https://arxiv.org/abs/1611.01792&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;A 3D printed beam splitter for polar neutral molecules&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A Formlabs Stereolithography machine was used there, producing a material that basically is PMMA. Pressures in the 10&lt;sup&gt;-8&lt;/sup&gt; mbar range are possible with that. Recently, Formlabs has presented a resin that produces heatable plastic up to 280°C, and that can be baked to get into the 10&lt;sup&gt;-10&lt;/sup&gt; mbar range (tested here).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5864" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2017-02-03T02:12:50.790" LastActivityDate="2017-02-03T02:12:50.790" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3513" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4405" CreationDate="2017-02-02T15:38:48.467" Score="1" ViewCount="962" Body="&lt;p&gt;I probably have to find out all the answers myself, but I could really use somebody else's experience.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;what material should I use, so the grill does not bend when exposed&#xA;to the heat coming from the radiator&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I have to print the part in slices; what glue can I use to join them lately, again so it resists the heat from the radiator and doesn't catch fire&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;is there maybe a CAD file describing this part, so I don't have to manually create it from scratch?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5872" LastActivityDate="2017-07-19T14:07:35.043" Title="Is it possible to 3D print a front bumper grille for a Honda Accord CL7?" Tags="|print-material|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3514" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3525" CreationDate="2017-02-02T17:14:01.587" Score="1" ViewCount="2783" Body="&lt;p&gt;Last night there was an error in printing that caused the printer to stop printing, but kept the hotend on. This morning I discovered that it had fused to what it was printing after remaining on all night - it took some time to remove.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Prints afterwards showed signs of under extrusion. Now when I tell it to extrude a millimeter, it no longer extrudes a thin strand, but instead exactly a millimeter of filament comes out the same diameter as it went in. Cleaning the hotend has done nothing, cleaning the extruder has done nothing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm left with two conclusions, either:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;this is what is supposed to happen, it was broken the whole time, I had calibrated it for the broken setting and just need to recalibrate everything, or;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;something, most likely the nozzle, is broken.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5135" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2023-01-11T22:22:59.823" LastActivityDate="2023-01-11T22:22:59.823" Title="3D printer extruding too thick" Tags="|extruder|extrusion|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="3515" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3510" CreationDate="2017-02-02T17:40:18.420" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Refraction of light is caused by changes in medium or angle of inflection. Any changes in medium will cause refraction, as such to be the most clear you would not want pockets of air. This means that if you are printing single layer 0% would work. The best appearance would most likely come from 100% infill as there would be no changes in the medium. The epoxy you linked to appears to smooth the surface, The smoother the surface, the clearer it will look. It is the same reason why you don't see clear textured mirrors or windows. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5135" LastActivityDate="2017-02-02T17:40:18.420" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3516" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3510" CreationDate="2017-02-02T18:05:04.347" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;First I would hedge your expectations.. I am very familiar with t-glase. It is very translucent but it is not clear and no amount of post treatment will make it 100% clear. Their example is the only exception where you have a simple print where it has only a single layer. By applying the clear coating they have normalized the wall and made the surface even. Thus no more light diffusion. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could likely get the same effect with good sanding but good luck sanding a 1 wall thick print. Also note they do not show any solid parts. If they cannot get a solid part to look good and clear, then really you shouldn't expect to be able to. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any infill will cause it to be non clear. Any extra shells will also create air pockets, lines, etc and make it non clear. If you really want clear, FDM is not the way to go. The only way I could imagine to print an item clear with FDM is to create a cast, then cast it with resin or glass.. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you consider how the plastic is applied, you can see there is no real way make it 100% air pocket free.. See below,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8gd6j.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8gd6j.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;FDM&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Image taken from &lt;a href=&quot;http://3devo.eu/guide-fdm-printable-plastics-3d-printing-filament/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The best I can recommend for settings. Make your temp spot on. If you boil the material you will have less translucency. Play with over extruding (too much material) in a Limited amount. Might reduce gaps. I would also try to print in BIG THICK lines. Less lines, less diffusions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2146" LastEditorUserId="2146" LastEditDate="2017-02-02T20:50:34.313" LastActivityDate="2017-02-02T20:50:34.313" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3517" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3483" CreationDate="2017-02-02T18:32:51.033" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have had the same Issue with my Maker select prusa printer, the way I found that best combats this is to attach the printer to a UPS and avoid attaching any High draw devices from the same circuit. Every Time i'd switch something on, My TV, my lights, etc. The same would happen. Hope this helps!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5869" LastActivityDate="2017-02-02T18:32:51.033" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3518" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3535" CreationDate="2017-02-02T20:05:22.480" Score="2" ViewCount="397" Body="&lt;p&gt;Will my Duplicator i3 be able to print this hole in the vertical wall without infill?&#xA;The wall is 7mm the diameter of the hole is 24mm, the shell thickness is 0.8mm. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UjfZK.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UjfZK.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Image of vertical wall with hole&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5875" LastEditorUserId="5875" LastEditDate="2017-02-02T20:26:16.303" LastActivityDate="2017-02-06T06:49:26.423" Title="Will my Duplicator i3 be able to print this hole in the vertical wall without infill?" Tags="|pla|print-quality|infill|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3519" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3524" CreationDate="2017-02-03T14:02:49.840" Score="3" ViewCount="16269" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not really sure if I'm asking the right question here, but I just made a noob mistake of buying 3 mm filaments instead of 1.75 mm. I have a Makerbot Replicator 2 which I've been using and so far it is pulling in 1.75 mm quite well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any way I can still make use the 3 mm filaments, or do I need to use the filaments on different models? If it is the latter, which particular model is able to pull in 3 mm filament well?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5883" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2022-02-24T10:12:10.573" LastActivityDate="2022-02-24T10:12:10.573" Title="How to Make Use of 3 mm Filaments?" Tags="|filament|extruder|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="6" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="3521" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-02-03T20:36:47.677" Score="4" ViewCount="1677" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am wondering if it would it be feasible (at an affordable price) to 3D print a boat hull (small dimensions, maybe something like 60x40x20 cm).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am mostly concerned about:  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;durability&lt;/strong&gt; (against salty water, UV rays, extreme temperatures&#xA;(under the sun or in a cold ocean)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;strength&lt;/strong&gt; (the material should be able to resist some chocs and maybe a little bit of pressure if a wave was to smash on it).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;waterproofness&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Those characteristics should &lt;em&gt;last&lt;/em&gt; during extended periods of time in water (at least several months, maybe more, about a year or two).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Is there any easily accessible 3D printing material that would match those characteristics?&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5886" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2017-02-06T15:12:01.323" LastActivityDate="2018-09-14T00:47:41.097" Title="3D printing a boat hull" Tags="|material|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3522" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3521" CreationDate="2017-02-03T20:48:02.260" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Something similar has been done in ABS already, although I don't expect it gets left in the water for years. See the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=odmFO7pJ-RQ&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;video&lt;/a&gt;, showing a kayak being printed in many ABS sections of about one cubic foot, then bolted together and sealed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4922" LastEditorUserId="4922" LastEditDate="2017-02-06T12:20:12.567" LastActivityDate="2017-02-06T12:20:12.567" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3523" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3521" CreationDate="2017-02-03T23:39:27.117" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Probably feasible, Affordable or simple probably not. To start from an affordability perspective, kayaks normally weigh around 20 kg, they &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.grassrootsengineering.com/blog/2014/03/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;kayak in the video mentioned in the other answer&lt;/a&gt; weighs in at 30kgs. Assuming you print all your parts perfectly, your using \$15 a kg filament, and you use 25 kg of abs you are looking at a minimum of \$375 in material just to print the kayak. After this the cost would only go up because now you need the parts to fasten it all together, the seat ect... In other words, it will probably be no cheaper and a whole lot more time intensive then buying one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5135" LastEditorUserId="5" LastEditDate="2018-09-14T00:46:01.900" LastActivityDate="2018-09-14T00:46:01.900" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="3524" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3519" CreationDate="2017-02-04T02:09:08.900" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is not a definitive answer (and has turned into a ramble), as I have not yet had to change my filament size. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, initially, I would have thought that only the hotend and the hotend's nozzle would need to be changed, from one that can handle the 1.75 mm filament to 3 mm. If the extruder is spring loaded, then it should adjust itself to the thicker filament, without a problem. If not, then you may have to do a slight manual adjustment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, after doing some further reading, there may be other factors that need to be considered, such as:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Extruder gearing;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Melt time (which would imply a different feed rate)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It could be worth having a close look at the aperture of your hotend. If, in the unlikely situation, it looks as if the hotend would accept 3 mm (or if you could remove the lining so that it can), you &lt;em&gt;may&lt;/em&gt; not need to actually change any hardware, but instead just try tweeking the &lt;strong&gt;feedrate&lt;/strong&gt; in the software, because as your nozzle is less than the width of the filament anyway, then it will be fine for both 1.75 mm &lt;em&gt;and&lt;/em&gt; 3 mm. A 3 mm filament would require more heating, and therefore a slower feedrate than a 1.75 mm feedrate. Once the filament has melted, so long as the pressure from the extruder is sufficient, then the molten filament should come out of the nozzle. However, this may be a less than satisafctory method and result in some dubious prints.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is an interesting thread on the RepRap wiki, &lt;a href=&quot;http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?1,128719,page=1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;1.75mm Filament vs 3mm Filament&lt;/a&gt;, that discusses most of the points above.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It should be noted that the advantages of 3 mm filament has over 1.75 mm are that it is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;cheaper&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;stiffer (less flexible) and thus &quot;easier&quot; to push through the hotend.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As an aside, one interesting point raised in the thread, is that maybe a smaller extruder can be used, for the narrower 1.75 mm filament, thus resulting in a lighter print head. I am not sure how true that is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This article, &lt;a href=&quot;http://hackaday.com/2015/10/17/converting-a-3d-printer-from-3mm-to-1-75mm/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Converting a 3D printer from 3mm to 1.75mm&lt;/a&gt;, does the reverse of what you want, and comes with a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UcMw-3RizIw&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;video&lt;/a&gt;. It states that, as you have already found, that the hotend needs to be changed:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The printer [Thomas] is changing out to accept 1.75mm is the Lulzbot&#xA;  Mini, one of the most popular printers that would ever need this&#xA;  modification. The only required materials is a new hot end suitable&#xA;  for 1.75mm filament, a 4mm drill, and a few wrenches and allen keys.&#xA;  It would be a smart idea to get a hot end that uses the same&#xA;  thermistor as the old one, but that’s not a deal-breaker as the&#xA;  problem can be fixed in the firmware.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively, you could leave your printer as it is and use a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:72336&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;3mm to 1.75mm filament converter&lt;/a&gt;, which may be a bit of overkill for just one reel of filament&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;The bottomline&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To be honest, is it worth the hassle, time and expense of having to modify and re-calibrate your printer (or worst case, change the model of the printer), just for the price of a reel of filament (assuming that you did not bulk purchase a bunch of reels)? It may be better to stick to one filament size (i.e. your original size) for all of your projects, and so resell the reel of 3 mm and stick with the 1.75 mm printer and buy the correct filament&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; See also &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/38/conversion-of-3mm-abs-filament-to-1-75mm&quot;&gt;Conversion of 3mm ABS filament to 1.75mm&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; See also &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/38/conversion-of-3mm-abs-filament-to-1-75mm#answer-42&quot;&gt;Tom's answer&lt;/a&gt; to &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/38/conversion-of-3mm-abs-filament-to-1-75mm&quot;&gt;Conversion of 3mm ABS filament to 1.75mm&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See also &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/269/can-1-75mm-filament-be-used-in-a-printer-that-takes-3mm-filament&quot;&gt;Can 1.75mm filament be used in a printer that takes 3mm filament?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4762" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T13:00:58.447" LastActivityDate="2017-02-04T03:33:41.773" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3525" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3514" CreationDate="2017-02-04T16:02:06.200" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;When you have a disaster print like this you almost always get carbon in the hot end. I have micro hand drills (0.2 mm) that I carefully use on the tip of the nozzle. There are also atomic pulls where you add plastic, heat it up till it extrudes then let it cool. Once cooled to 70°C pull hard. Repeat until pulls show no black. Or, if your nozzles are cheap just replace them. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note next time this happens, turn the hot end on so you can remove it quickly. Sounds like you chipped away. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2146" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2017-02-05T15:54:31.847" LastActivityDate="2017-02-05T15:54:31.847" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3526" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-02-05T05:07:54.933" Score="1" ViewCount="415" Body="&lt;p&gt;I currently have a Replicator 2 and a couple of clones. I'm a fairly experienced 3DP user and builder but one issue that I have over and over again is the very brittle screw type thermowell assemblies that get damaged whenever you try to replace a nozzle or repair your hot end.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm wondering why I don't see more of the quick connect type thermocouple assemblies, like this &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.grainger.com/product/VULCAN-Type-K-Type-K-Male-3HL34&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;K-type male&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It would be a great help on 3D Printers allowing easy disconnect of screw type thermowells without damaging them. Is there a reason that these are not being used?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was hoping someone with experience with these could tell me if they are worth trying out on some of my builds without risking some kind of dangerous situation. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5898" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2017-02-05T22:24:40.683" LastActivityDate="2017-04-08T18:04:04.050" Title="Can K-type thermocouple disconnects be used with thermocouple based 3D printers?" Tags="|makerbot|replicator-dual|repair|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3527" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3528" CreationDate="2017-02-05T06:20:27.020" Score="3" ViewCount="4736" Body="&lt;p&gt;Many 3D printers employ a GT2 band for the &lt;em&gt;y&lt;/em&gt;-axis plate and the printhead in the &lt;em&gt;x&lt;/em&gt;-axis carriage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, there seems to be the obvious disadvantages of:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;stretching (and need for adjustment) and;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;possibly slight inaccuracy, or &amp;quot;wobble&amp;quot; (for want of a better word (as wobble is often used in describing &lt;em&gt;z&lt;/em&gt;-axis deviations)), due to the elasticity of the band.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any particular reason why GT2 is used over a straight forward rack and pinion system?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EUTlt.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EUTlt.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Rack and pinion&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In particular, for the &lt;em&gt;y&lt;/em&gt;-axis plate, as a rack would appear to me, be:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;easy to install;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;more accurate, and;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;require a lot less adjustment&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the rack is made from aluminium, surely &lt;em&gt;weight&lt;/em&gt; can not be a major factor...  or can it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is &lt;em&gt;cost&lt;/em&gt; a factor? A pinion seems to cost around \$10-\$15 (650 B\$, here in BKK, Thailand), which is obviously more than a reel of GT2 and a couple of GT2 pulleys.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would the &lt;em&gt;rigidity&lt;/em&gt; of the rack be less forgiving of an imperfectly aligned axis, something which the GT2 band and pulleys combination would not be so affected by?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;TL;DR&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which of these factors cause designers to use GT2 en lieu of a rack?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Accuracy&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Weight&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cost&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Maintenance&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tolerence of non-square axes, manufacturing errors.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; Maybe constant adjustment is not required on an everyday basis, but the tension would still need to be checked now and again, whereas a pinion would not have this requirement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4762" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:29:41.667" LastActivityDate="2021-08-21T23:43:13.720" Title="Advantages of GT2 over a rack" Tags="|printer-building|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="3528" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3527" CreationDate="2017-02-05T09:46:17.740" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;With a belt system, the belt engages roughly half the pulley. This, and the tension in the belt, ensures the belt always engages the pulley tightly. A belt and pulley system is thus relatively forgiving.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With a rack and pinion system, only a few teeth engage at any given time. To avoid backlash and get the same kind of &quot;tight&quot; engagement, both the gear and the rack need to be made with very high precision. The carriage also needs to be very well constrained, because any wobble of the rack relative to the gear introduces backlash (or binding). Moreover, you also need to keep the rack and pinion well lubricated lest they wear out prematurely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given that belt and pulley work well enough, I don't see why you'd need to move to rack and pinion. The main advantage of rack and pinion is that the rack isn't elastic. The maximum length of a belt system is limited by its elasticity, but given we aren't building meter-long 3D printers anyway, that advantage of rack and pinion does not apply.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastActivityDate="2017-02-05T09:46:17.740" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3529" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3510" CreationDate="2017-02-05T12:37:02.747" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You are never going to get perfectly transparent prints, even if you were using real glass. Because of the way FDM prints, you would have fissures where the layers bond to each other. You can get good results if you use 0 or 100% infill &lt;em&gt;and&lt;/em&gt; sand, then smooth the outside shell. If you are expecting optical quality, look somewhere else. However, I have successfully printed &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; nice diffusers for LED's with clear filament. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5902" LastEditorUserId="854" LastEditDate="2017-02-06T00:56:30.257" LastActivityDate="2017-02-06T00:56:30.257" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3530" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3507" CreationDate="2017-02-05T12:40:25.767" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's non-conductive, but I would check to make sure with any colored filament. Black may have iron oxide or carbon black which may give it minor conductance. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5902" LastActivityDate="2017-02-05T12:40:25.767" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3531" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3398" CreationDate="2017-02-05T12:48:18.087" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is worth pointing out as it hasn't been said yet, make sure your stepper driver isn't overheating. If it overheats, it will cause the stepper to temporarily shut down, and it will click when it happens. This could be caused by inadequate power or by insufficient cooling. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5902" LastActivityDate="2017-02-05T12:48:18.087" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3532" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3533" CreationDate="2017-02-05T14:27:13.000" Score="5" ViewCount="5066" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Prusa i3 made by Geeetech. My 3D prints keep suffering from warping when printing with PLA.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whenever I print something with a base at about 10 cm x 10 cm, at least one corner of the print would warp up. I've read numerous articles about warping and tried all sorts of methods. My printer's bed is level, and heated to 60°C. My bed is made from clean glass. I've tried all sorts of adhesives. I tried blue tape, and used hair spray. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only way for me to combat this is gluing the base to blue tape with 502 Glue. I used brim and the whole brim just warps up. I sometimes leave the model printing over night. For the first few hours it's perfectly flat. When I go back to it the next morning I'd find one corner warped up. This is very dysfunctional to my prints. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a reliable way to stop this warping from happening?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5903" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-07-24T22:05:24.843" LastActivityDate="2019-07-24T22:05:24.843" Title="3D prints keep suffering from warping" Tags="|pla|warping|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="3533" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3532" CreationDate="2017-02-05T16:57:44.167" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;For ABS it will warp unless you build a heat chamber. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said the tricks to reduce warping come down to: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Material, i.e. PLA is less likely to warp; &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use a fan, it helps so much; &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Make sure you have temps calibrated well - Too hot is more warp; &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use a raft. The Makerbot uses a raft and no heated bed; &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Make sure the room is not drafty. Having it by the window will result in warping; &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Adding a large brim also helps;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I find good ol' glue sticks work the best at keeping the print to the bed;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;SMASH the first layer. This one is controversial. I personally do first layer at 130% and print speed of 30%. You get elephants foot sure, but it's on the bed real good.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tom is right. It is very very hard to print that big of a piece without warping. That said I have done very large pieces on my Ultimaker, using a fan, glue stick, MatterHackers PRO PLA and no raft. But again that's on an Ultimaker. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note you can build a heat chamber pretty easily. Specifically a passive heat chamber. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2146" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-06-08T00:44:38.520" LastActivityDate="2018-06-08T00:44:38.520" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="3534" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3519" CreationDate="2017-02-05T21:30:54.033" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well... Usually when one buys a 30 dollar roll of plastic they don't replace a 1k machine.. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said you can change out the extruder. The extruder is what matters. So if you have a Prusa i3, you can go and buy say a e3d hot end that is made for 3mm. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Usually we see 3mm on Bowden printers like the Ultimaker. Everyone else has moved to 1.8. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would just toss this on craigslist and get the correct plastic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2146" LastActivityDate="2017-02-05T21:30:54.033" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3535" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3518" CreationDate="2017-02-06T06:49:26.423" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The answer is yes. However I notice that some knowledge is missing due your comments. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The walls of the part is formed by 1 or several lines, this lines are called shell.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Infill is the part that fills all within the walls or shell; you can set the infill by 5% to 100% depending in how strong you need the printed part or set 0 to get an empty shell.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The printer can be able to print any part, but some areas will need &lt;strong&gt;supports&lt;/strong&gt;, this suports is a kind of outerfill to support areas that could overhang basically walls with 45 degrees or less, this support can be easily removed from the final part &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4454" LastActivityDate="2017-02-06T06:49:26.423" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3536" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2843" CreationDate="2017-02-06T10:29:13.837" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Also consider the nozzle on your printer. Most nozzles are made of brass, which is not considered food safe due to the presence of small amounts of lead. Stainless steel nozzles are available which will not perform quite as well as brass but are food safe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5911" LastActivityDate="2017-02-06T10:29:13.837" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3537" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-02-06T12:37:38.997" Score="1" ViewCount="555" Body="&lt;p&gt;SketchUp Make is licensed for non-commercial work only.  This includes the output from the software.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Trimble Navigation Limited and/or its affiliates (&amp;quot;Trimble&amp;quot;) gives you&#xA;a personal, worldwide, royalty-free, non-assignable and non-exclusive&#xA;license to use the executable version of the Software for&#xA;non-commercial use only. Non-commercial use means: you may not sell,&#xA;rent, lease or lend the output of the Software or the Services.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The above retrieved 2016-02-07. The full &lt;a href=&quot;https://web.archive.org/web/20181005195026/https://www.sketchup.com/license/b/sketchup-make&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;SketchUp Make license&lt;/a&gt; can be found on the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.sketchup.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;SketchUp website&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In what ways does this restrict my use of SketchUp Make generated material with sites that allow the sharing of models (and deisgn files)?  This would include sites such as &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Thingiverse&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.myminifactory.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;MyMiniFactory&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dwarehouse.sketchup.com/?hl=en&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;3D Warehouse&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, must I always set a non-commercial license for my designs?&#xA;Thingiverse allows several different license choices to be selected.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I permit the design to be printed by someone for money?&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Thingiverse has links to &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.hubs.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;3D HUBS&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;https://printathing.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Print a Thing&lt;/a&gt; which can be disabled per model.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.sketchup.com/license/b/sketchup-pro&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;the SketchUp Pro license&lt;/a&gt; makes many of the restrictions on what can be done with the output go away, which would be much simpler.  However I do not expect to generate anywhere near the costs of purchasing a license ($695 US at the time of writing) by tweaking a few designs now and then.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to comply with the licenses but I need to understand the limits of what I am permitted to do with SketchUp Make in order to do that.  It may be much more prudent for me to invest my time in learning other tools that have no restrictions on what can be done with the output.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As this is a legal question it might matter what jurisdiction I am in and what jurisdiction the sites I may share to are in.  I am based in the UK.  Thingiverse is based in the State of New York.  MyMiniFactory uses the Laws of England as a base.  3D Warehouse selects the State of California.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4437" LastEditorUserId="4808" LastEditDate="2022-02-25T03:32:53.800" LastActivityDate="2022-02-25T03:32:53.800" Title="Can I design or remix a model in SketchUp Make and legally share it via Thingiverse, MyMiniFactory or similar?" Tags="|3d-models|3d-design|software|cad|legal|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="3539" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3537" CreationDate="2017-02-06T16:07:22.680" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;IANAL, naturally, so take this with that in mind.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From what I've read and been instructed, any software which is licenced as non-commercial cannot be redistributed or incorporated into any commercial software product.  The other thing about &quot;noncommercial&quot; software licenses is that they can't be used for corporate design work -- as opposed to home user hacking.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, all you need to do is ensure that the license restrictions remain with the mixup files you post.  There is no doubt that, so long as you do that, you are free from any legal problems that a downstream vendor may incur upon trying to sell the hardware produced.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2191" LastActivityDate="2017-02-06T16:07:22.680" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3540" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3532" CreationDate="2017-02-06T16:12:21.513" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;For PLA, I use a brim.  The other thing that makes a big difference is obsessive care in levelling the bed and setting the Z-origin.  Ideally, the first layer extruded (including the brim), should be almost &quot;squished&quot; onto the bed rather than being laid down at a height that allows a near-circular cross-section.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;If the extruder head is too low, almost no filament will come out.  If it's too high, there'll be very little adhesion.  FWIW, I think a heated bed helps here, as it slows the cooling of this first layer and improves the adhesion as the fluid-phase 'grabs' the surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2191" LastActivityDate="2017-02-06T16:12:21.513" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3541" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3537" CreationDate="2017-02-06T19:41:04.693" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Again, I'm not a specialist in intellectual property law (or any other sort of lawyer), but I have a different interpretation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a potential difference between the use of the product, and the use of the derivatives of the product. For example, GCC has a restrictive (open) license, but its OK (in some contexts) to use the compiled code in a commercial product.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Generally, you (as creator of a work) will own all of the rights to a work. The supplier of the tools you use does not &lt;em&gt;usually&lt;/em&gt; gain any rights to the resulting work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So long as &lt;em&gt;you&lt;/em&gt; don't gain from your use of the tool, it is probably OK for other people to profit from the use. Sharing with non-commercial should be your safest option if you're worried - but be aware that this doesn't prevent people from taking your design to a print service indirectly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Their &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sketchup.com/license/d/sketchup&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;license&lt;/a&gt; says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Non-commercial use means that you may not sell, rent, or lease the&#xA;  output of the Software&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This implies that they are not making any claims to restrict how other non-connected persons might use your works. Its specifically talking about use as part of employment, or you making a gain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would also note that to me the language in the license does not look to have been drafted with a clear understanding of intent on this issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4927" LastEditorUserId="4927" LastEditDate="2017-02-07T09:14:27.863" LastActivityDate="2017-02-07T09:14:27.863" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3542" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-02-06T20:55:24.743" Score="2" ViewCount="131" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am using (micro)CT data and generating 3-D models using CTAn - a SkyScan piece of software: &lt;a href=&quot;http://bruker-microct.com/products/downloads.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Bruker - Control and reconstruction programs&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically I am using simple thresholding to create 3-D model STL files.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I would like to do is get the number of voxels where the surface area of the two models touch.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Imagine having a model that is a sphere with another model within it that is exposed on a portion of the sphere.  I want to know the surface area of that exposed portion.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anybody have any advice?  I have been banging my head against tools like 3D-Slicer, Seg3D, ITK-Snap and so on and have not been able to find this capability.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5922" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2017-02-07T11:34:39.163" LastActivityDate="2018-09-24T12:01:56.390" Title="CT Segmentation Model Intersection" Tags="|3d-models|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3543" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-02-06T21:44:25.397" Score="4" ViewCount="1539" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to try out different combinations of&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;raster angle, &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;raster width and &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;build orientation &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;in Ultimaker Cura. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't see any settings where I could change these. I am using Cura 2.3 &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any suggestions how I could change that?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5923" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-11-01T09:18:58.157" LastActivityDate="2020-10-26T18:41:46.267" Title="Changing raster angle, raster width and build orientation in Ultimaker Cura" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="3544" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-02-07T04:10:45.450" Score="1" ViewCount="122" Body="&lt;p&gt;My 3D printing experience is primarily with ultrasonic additive manufacturing (embedding FBG sensors into aluminum/process-based research), and recently I was approached by someone interested in the potential value of using polypropylene (PP) for FDM.  My understanding is that it is fairly difficult to obtain meaningful results with it, but again this is out of my expertise.  I saw a few references to glass fiber reinforcement, something that is more up my alley, and have essentially the following questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Is there a decent market/interest in cheaper polypropylene filament/coming up with improved parameters for PP printing?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Is there an interest in cheap glass fiber reinforced-polypropylene (GFR-PP) filament?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have anything relevant to add on that I haven't considered, please feel free to chime in as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5925" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2017-02-07T12:06:00.660" LastActivityDate="2017-02-07T12:06:00.660" Title="Question about polypropylene with glass fiber reinforcement" Tags="|filament-production|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3545" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3548" CreationDate="2017-02-07T14:13:32.897" Score="3" ViewCount="7465" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm still putting aside money for buying my first 3D printer and I'm designing all the things I have to print.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As I have &lt;strong&gt;a lot of things&lt;/strong&gt; to print I would like to print as much of them as possible in a single print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have some arcs of circle (between 90° and 320° and 10/30 cm of diameter) and I'm going to slice them so I'll be able to print many of them, vertically, in a single print. I read in the internet that I cannot print over 45°... but starting from where?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The image below shows how I would like to print my (orange) things&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wNnOf.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wNnOf.png&quot; alt=&quot;Illustration of vertical arcs&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suppose I can print my things without supports because from Y-start to Y-end they are &amp;lt;= 45° (as the green line shows) is that right?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The red line, instead, shows a case where the angle, starting from a (Y: 50%) point, is higher than 45°.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;So the question is&lt;/strong&gt;: Can I print my things in such way?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="176" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2017-02-08T23:38:47.917" LastActivityDate="2017-02-10T18:57:19.393" Title="Print circle arcs without supports" Tags="|3d-design|support-structures|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3546" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3545" CreationDate="2017-02-07T15:01:21.430" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This depends on your material, your nozzle diameter, and your layer height. In general, shorter layer thicknesses with wider path widths will give better overhangs. And note that the last bit of each of the larger arcs are nearly horizontal, and I do not expect them to work well without support material.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See the excellent answers at &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/686/how-can-i-improve-the-overhang-angles-my-printer-can-successfully-print&quot;&gt;How can I improve the overhang angles my printer can successfully print?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4922" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T13:00:58.447" LastActivityDate="2017-02-10T16:08:23.230" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3547" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-02-07T20:26:56.007" Score="2" ViewCount="274" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've created a model in  OpenSCAD, mainly some cubes (not really cubes, but lengthy braces using &lt;code&gt;cube()&lt;/code&gt;) and cylinders with cylindrical holes in them, to hold several PCBs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The barrels will accept a 3 mm PCB standoff, which will then hold the PCB.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would like to print the top view in the exact measurements on paper, to check for alignment before printing the bracing on my 3D printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The tool I'm searching for should be able to generate a drawing of all edges seen from one side, like a technical drawing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've used FreeCAD and OpenSCAD for now, but any tool running on Ubuntu should be fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5937" LastEditorUserId="854" LastEditDate="2017-02-08T10:41:42.740" LastActivityDate="2019-07-24T22:12:24.353" Title="I'm searching for a tool to generate 2D PDF of one side of my model" Tags="|software|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3548" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3545" CreationDate="2017-02-07T21:14:58.590" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a lot of variables here... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you did at ..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;higher resolution.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Calibrate your machine extremely well. Trial and error. Minimum temps and speed.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you use a fan.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;IE bad calibration.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eWjN5.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eWjN5.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;Good calibration at a slower speed and lower temp.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tE0zh.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tE0zh.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is going to happen is you will get a lot of junk, lines, loops, stringers that you can later remove with clippers. See the first photo for an extreme case. It still printed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also if you use the right material as well. Some material, will do bridging better, IE ABS has a longer molecular chain than PLA so it tends to do overhangs / bridges better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Images from &lt;a href=&quot;https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/19643-bridging&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;ultimaker&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2146" LastActivityDate="2017-02-07T21:14:58.590" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3549" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3547" CreationDate="2017-02-07T23:10:23.377" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;OpenSCAD has a great feature called &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikibooks.org/wiki/OpenSCAD_User_Manual/3D_to_2D_Projection&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;projection&lt;/a&gt; which allows you to select a vertical location and effectively &quot;cast a shadow&quot; of the part. The projection becomes a 2D object scaled to the original model.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One can rotate, translate or otherwise transform the model prior to performing the projection function, in order to get the appropriate 2D drawing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The resulting &quot;model&quot; is rendered using F6 and can be output as .DXF or .SVG as well as a number of other formats that might not be as useful to you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: I've been recently using &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.onshape.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Onshape&lt;/a&gt; to create drawings from 3D models. It's also a free program, browser based which allows you to import your STL model (or other acceptable formats). Once imported, a drawing can be created with three-view and isometric, or you can edit to create only a single view. This can then be exported/downloaded as a PDF.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The screen capture image below is from a project I've recently created. The original STL file was imported and the result is quite clean.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Z6t4T.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Z6t4T.png&quot; alt=&quot;screen cap of pdf drawing&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastEditorUserId="854" LastEditDate="2019-07-24T22:12:24.353" LastActivityDate="2019-07-24T22:12:24.353" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="3550" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3551" CreationDate="2017-02-08T05:11:22.170" Score="1" ViewCount="749" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have seen a few guides mentioning &lt;em&gt;w/t ratio&lt;/em&gt; but I can't find anything which defines it.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am using Simplify3D with a Wanhao i3.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5818" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2017-02-08T17:45:30.537" LastActivityDate="2017-02-08T17:45:30.537" Title="What is a w/t ratio?" Tags="|simplify3d|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3551" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3550" CreationDate="2017-02-08T05:51:10.987" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It appears to refer to calibration factor called &lt;em&gt;Width over Thickness&lt;/em&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:52946&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Calibrate your 3D printer to print parts to fit&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Here is the list of necessary variables for this calibration to work,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Carve/Extra Decimal Places (float) : change to 5&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Carve/Edge Width over Height (ratio) : nozzle diameter/layer height&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Inset/Infill &lt;strong&gt;Width over Thickness&lt;/strong&gt; (ratio) : nozzle diameter/layer height (initially)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Dimension/Filament Packing Density (ratio) : needs calibration (equivalent to the reciprocal of the extrusion multiplier in Slic3r)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Scale/XY Plane Scale (ratio) : needs calibration&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4762" LastActivityDate="2017-02-08T05:51:10.987" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3552" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3565" CreationDate="2017-02-08T22:25:01.630" Score="1" ViewCount="6226" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have just built a Prusa i3 MK2 printer. One of its features is automatic XYZ axes calibration done using inductive probe which is located next to the nozzle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my case, this calibration procedure failed with the message: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;XYZ calibration failed. Please consult the manual.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/manual/prusa3d_manual_mk2_en.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;manual&lt;/a&gt; on this problem reads:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;ol&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;XYZ calibration failed. Bed calibration point was not found.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  Calibration routine did not find a bed sensor point. The printer stops close to the bed&#xA;  point, which it failed to detect. Please verify, that the printer is assembled correctly,&#xA;  that all axes move freely, the pulleys do not slip and the print nozzle is clean. If&#xA;  everything looks good, re-run the X/Y calibration and verify with a sheet of paper&#xA;  between the nozzle and the print bed that the print nozzle does not touch the print&#xA;  bed during the calibration routine. If you feel a friction of the nozzle against the sheet&#xA;  of paper and the nozzle is clean, you need to screw the PINDA probe slightly lower&#xA;  and re-run the X/Y calibration.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;XYZ calibration failed. Please consult the manual.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  The calibration points were found in positions far from what should be expected for a&#xA;  properly assembled printer. Please follow the instructions of case 1).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My nozzle is new, therefore clean and I have already checked that all axes move without any problems. The manual does not seem to offer any additional advice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried to put the PINDA probe lower. It had helped the calibration, but at the same time the probe was lower than the nozzle, which means I couldn't print with it being on the extruder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What else can I check? How to find the issue? This is my first printer, so I'm totally clueless.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="283" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2017-02-09T00:19:07.523" LastActivityDate="2019-04-21T19:59:28.463" Title="Prusa's P.I.N.D.A. XYZ axes calibration fails with generic message &quot;Consult the manual&quot;" Tags="|prusa-i3|calibration|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3553" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3532" CreationDate="2017-02-09T08:33:32.490" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Source (at least in part): &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://books.google.co.uk/books?id=MJqoBQAAQBAJ&amp;amp;pg=RA10-PA6&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;SolidWorks 2015 Tutorial with Video Instruction, page 11-6&lt;/a&gt;, and;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.makerbot.com/media-center/2011/06/23/12-ways-to-fight-warping-and-curling&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;12 ways to fight warping and curling&lt;/a&gt;, June 23, 2011 by MakerBlock&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Curling&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;As printed plastic parts cool the different areas of the object can&#xA;  cool at different rates. 1  Depending upon the parts being printed,&#xA;  this effect can lead to warping and curling.  Although PLA has a much&#xA;  lower shrinkage factor than ABS, both can warp and curl, potentially&#xA;  ruining a print.  There are some very common ways to deal with this&#xA;  potential problem, the most notable being a heated build platform. &#xA;  However, sometimes that might not be enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ol&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Use a heated build platform.  A heated build platform helps keep the lowest levels of a print warm as the higher layers are printed. &#xA;  This allows the overall print to cool more evenly.  A heated build&#xA;  platform, sometimes abbreviated as HBP, helps tremendously with just&#xA;  about any ABS print and large PLA prints.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Print with a raft.  Rafts are a printing option in ReplicatorG and Skeinforge.  They’re basically a large flat lattice work of printed&#xA;  material underneath the lower-most layer of your printed object. &#xA;  They’ll also help reduce warping and curling by allowing your printed&#xA;  object to adhere better to your flat build surface.  Other variations&#xA;  on this are to print with a larger raft and/or a thicker raft&#xA;  comprised of more layers.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Calibrate your starting Z height.  A good first layer makes all the difference.  If your starting Z axis height is too high, the extruded&#xA;  filament won’t be able to make a good bond with the platform.  If you&#xA;  think your Z axis starting height is too high, try lowering it by&#xA;  0.05mm increments until you find a good first layer.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Get the right build surface.  Some people have experimented with different surfaces such as steel, titanium, glass, different kinds of&#xA;  plastic, different kinds of tape, and foam board.  However, I find&#xA;  both ABS and PLA seem to stick really well to hot or warm Kapton tape.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Clean your build surface.  ABS and PLA stick better to a clean build surface.  Keep it clean of dust, pieces of old prints, and any&#xA;  other debris.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Print slower.  Printing slower allows finer detail, better adhesion to the build surface and lower layers, and gives the printed part more&#xA;  time to cool evenly.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Print cooler.  Printing at a lower temperature isn’t always an option.  Ideally, you should be printing at the lowest temperature&#xA;  required for extrusion and that allows good interlayer adhesion. &#xA;  However, trying lower temperatures isn’t for the faint of heart. &#xA;  Printing at a too low a temperature could cause harm to your extruder&#xA;  motor or extruder.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Eliminate drafts or enclose your robot.  Forrest Higgs found that having his 3D printer too close to an open window caused very uneven&#xA;  heating across his build surface.  This in turn caused the side of his&#xA;  prints closest to the window to curl.  Since keeping the window closed&#xA;  wasn’t an option for him, he compensated for the window drafts by&#xA;  adding a heat lamp.  Cupcake and Thing-O-Matic owners might have an&#xA;  easier time of eliminating drafts by simply enclosing two or three of&#xA;  the sides of their robots.  It will also have a fortunate side effect&#xA;  of helping to control fumes.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Design with mouse ears.  Zach Smith’s solution was to add little discs to corners of an object to help those corners stick to the&#xA;  platform.  These essentially serve as “mini-rafts” to give those&#xA;  corners more surface area and better adhesion without having to print&#xA;  an entire raft.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Design with aprons to hold down corners.  Forrest Higgs suggested adding “aprons” around an object to be printed, while that object was&#xA;  being printed on a raft.  These low thick pieces of plastic help keep&#xA;  the raft flat and help prevent any curling or warping from affecting&#xA;  the desired printed object itself.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Design with surrounding thermal walls.  While Forrest Higgs’ apron approach provides a mechanical advantage of essentially holding down&#xA;  corners with a chunk of plastic, Nophead has added thin surrounding&#xA;  walls to his designs to act as baffles to keep warm air around the&#xA;  printed object as it moves around.  He’s postulated that a very thin&#xA;  surrounding wall could have the same beneficial effect as printing&#xA;  inside an enclosed build chamber.  Interestingly, it seems that&#xA;  Nophead suggests that designing objects with more rounded corners&#xA;  might also help avoid curling and warping at those corners.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Reduce infill.  When printing a model you can chose to print it hollow, completely solid, or some percentage between zero and 100. &#xA;  However, as Nophead points out even the plastic inside a model exerts&#xA;  a force on the entire printed object as it cools.  It stands to reason&#xA;  that the more plastic you have, the more those pieces of plastic will&#xA;  pull against themselves and the build surface as they cool.  By&#xA;  reducing infill there will a reduced amount of internal tension as the&#xA;  object cools.  Reducing these internal forces by printing with a lower&#xA;  infill ratio can help reduce curling and warping as well.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5962" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-06-08T01:01:41.840" LastActivityDate="2018-06-08T01:01:41.840" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="3554" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-02-09T12:20:48.520" Score="8" ViewCount="16891" Body="&lt;h2&gt;The problem&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I print with my mElephant 3D printer from Makeblock, the prints come out with waved walls like in the picture below. I am using PLA filament from &lt;a href=&quot;https://makeblock.lt&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://makeblock.lt&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://makeblock.lt/up/so/3d-waves.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;3d-waves&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;What I tried&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried changing temperatures 190-220, tried to change the flow rate. Also checked if the bolts are not lose. Everything seems good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;My printer&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://makeblock.lt/up/so/melephant.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;mElephant&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5965" LastEditorUserId="5965" LastEditDate="2017-02-09T14:39:35.667" LastActivityDate="2018-04-09T12:27:11.190" Title="3D printing problem: waved walls" Tags="|pla|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3555" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3554" CreationDate="2017-02-09T14:07:31.083" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Repeating patterns like that usually stem from issues in the Z axis.  This is likely caused by bent screws which in turn cause the X axis to move around.    Are the top of the threaded rods constrained?  If they are, an easy fix may just be to let the top of the threaded rods float around by removing the constraint.  Most Prusa i3's use 5mm threaded rod for the screws and 8mm smooth rod, does your printer use the same setup?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your printer has 8mm (or 5/16&quot;) threaded rod you could try to get some that are straight or the better solution would be to get the 5mm threaded rods and just print adapters to hold the 5mm nut inside the trap.  This would require new couplers (aluminum or rubber/plastic hose), 5mm threaded rods, nuts, adapters (printed) and a small change to the firmware.  This works because the 5mm rod is more flexible than the 8mm smooth rod and less likely to force the carriage around.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you already have the 5mm threaded rod/8mm smooth rod then I would look to make sure your X axis is tight and does not move around on the Z axis smooth rods.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This would be easier to point out if you include a picture of your printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your printer is the mElephant from Makeblock then I would try removing the bearings at the top that constrain the threaded rods and try the print again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="233" LastEditorUserId="233" LastEditDate="2017-02-09T14:39:37.070" LastActivityDate="2017-02-09T14:39:37.070" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3556" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3073" CreationDate="2017-02-09T19:15:04.683" Score="8" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Given that this printer will have the Pi3 to control &quot;higher functions&quot;, is it worth considering a compact firmware like Teacup?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A few days ago I came across &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/KevinOConnor/klipper&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;klipper&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems to do exactly that functionality split you mention&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5970" LastActivityDate="2017-02-09T19:15:04.683" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3557" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3559" CreationDate="2017-02-10T04:02:14.437" Score="4" ViewCount="2397" Body="&lt;p&gt;We have a toy with some broken parts, an Executivity Gear Master. I don't think it's made anymore. Some tiny parts were easy to break and we'd like to 3d print some replacement parts. We don't have CAD or any other 3D drawings file, just a few of the unbroken parts. What's the best way to get some of these printed? Do I have to turn this into a 3D file first? (Is there a quick way to do that from the part itself?) Or is there a way to do it where I just need the part, rather like getting a spare key cut from a pre-existing key being used as the template?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a photo of the part I need to print. Placed next to a quarter for size comparison:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xZ6VN.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xZ6VN.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5977" LastActivityDate="2018-08-10T11:06:34.983" Title="How do you 3d print from an existing part when you have no CAD drawings?" Tags="|3d-design|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3558" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3532" CreationDate="2017-02-10T05:10:16.980" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It might be useful you confirm again the bed levelling. I had warp on big pieces despite I thought my bed was properly leveled but in fact, for some reasons, the bed was too far from the head on one corner. If you face the same issue, you should see the bottom part of your print is showing the filaments not well melted to each others on the 1st layer. I really make sure the nozzle is gripping my paper sheet (almost scratching it when I move the paper). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5978" LastActivityDate="2017-02-10T05:10:16.980" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3559" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3557" CreationDate="2017-02-10T09:35:06.050" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can't print without a 3D model first. There are various ways you can go about this (or pay someone to do the same for you, ignoring any IP issues).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is possible to generate a 3D model from a sequence of 2D photographs (there is even &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.123dapp.com/catch&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;software which will allow you to do this freehand on a phone&lt;/a&gt;). Equipment exists which is specifically designed for this process, and you have likely heard of the services which allow you to get a 3D print of your own body.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can take a 2D photo and import this into a 3D drawing package. Copy the features into a mesh, and extrude it. This might be a good approach for a complex shape, particularly if appearance is more important than precision.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the shape you show here, the simplest approach for anyone with modeling experience is maybe to just draw it from scratch (with a few key dimensions). Your shape is only made up of a handful of primitive shapes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Experiment in &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.tinkercad.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;TinkerCad&lt;/a&gt; which is an online 3D editor to see if you can handle this yourself. It's not clear if you have your own printer, but this sort of part should cost less than $1 to print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Strength might be a problem if they are already breaking...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4927" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-08-10T11:06:34.983" LastActivityDate="2018-08-10T11:06:34.983" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="3560" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3557" CreationDate="2017-02-10T12:40:55.640" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately, There's no easy way to go about this. The easiest solution is to model the part from scratch. A pair of (digital) calipers is an invaluable tool for doing that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given that the part is rather small and (presumably) needs to fit with something, you need very precise measurements. 3D scanning or photogrammetry (reconstructing the models from 2D photographs) are not suitable for this, as they generally result in a model that needs clean up and can't be printed directly (which would be more work than modelling from scratch) and moreover the dimensions won't be accurate enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastActivityDate="2017-02-10T12:40:55.640" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3563" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3552" CreationDate="2017-02-10T19:48:24.807" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I suggest that you ask on &lt;a href=&quot;http://shop.prusa3d.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;shop.prusa3d.com&lt;/a&gt; and click the Forum tab button. The folks there are very friendly and knowledgable. I'm sure you can get some help. You can also email support.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is also a question form at the bottom of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.prusa3d.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;www.prusa3d.com&lt;/a&gt; where you can ask questions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm sure you can get it going. I have a MK2 also and it has done very well by me!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5031" LastActivityDate="2017-02-10T19:48:24.807" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3564" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3578" CreationDate="2017-02-10T21:50:45.500" Score="3" ViewCount="3417" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's my first encounter with 123D Design, and first time playing around STL/3D printing in general. I can't find much information about the grid. But I noticed, while trying to move it, you can actually raise it from the grid. Does this affect how it will be printed? Does the print have to be snapped to the ground for it to print properly? Or is the grid relative, used for approximation? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OPZov.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OPZov.png&quot; alt=&quot;Screenshot of item raised from main grid&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5983" LastActivityDate="2017-02-12T18:08:10.733" Title="Snapping to Ground - 123D Design" Tags="|3d-design|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3565" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3552" CreationDate="2017-02-10T23:13:02.743" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;One thing, and the one that eventually solved my problem, is to update the firmware. Firmware update instructions: &lt;a href=&quot;http://manual.prusa3d.com/Guide/Upgrading+firmware/66&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Upgrading firmware - Prusa3D&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only thing you might get stuck on is selecting the right COM port.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Go to the device manager (run &lt;code&gt;devmgmt.msc&lt;/code&gt;)&#xA; &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yphCl.png&quot; alt=&quot;image description&quot;&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In COM and LPT section, you should see port for your printer by name. Select that port number in the firmware update tool.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my case, I had to run the calibration twice before it worked. I had no problems since then.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="283" LastEditorUserId="4808" LastEditDate="2019-04-21T19:59:28.463" LastActivityDate="2019-04-21T19:59:28.463" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="3566" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-02-11T00:45:50.530" Score="3" ViewCount="128" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I try to open prepared &lt;code&gt;.amf&lt;/code&gt; plate with some items to print, Prusa's Slic3er release throw's this error:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xBMGF.png&quot; alt=&quot;AMF parsing requires XML::SAX&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The slicer version is 1.30 distributed for Prusa's i3 MK2 1.75 printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="283" LastActivityDate="2017-12-30T21:10:52.367" Title="Slic3er throws &quot;AMF parsing requires XML::SAX&quot;" Tags="|prusa-i3|software|slic3r|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3568" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-02-11T03:09:37.180" Score="7" ViewCount="4428" Body="&lt;p&gt;I saw this cool &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1231999&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Nuka-Cola bottle opener&lt;/a&gt;. I made it:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ysVvW.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ysVvW.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;3D print of Nuka-Cola bottle opener&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you can see, nasty gaps have appeared in the text. What could've caused them? I am sure I set the filament diameter correctly. So why did the Slic3er not generate enough paths here to fill the letters properly?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I used Slic3er and Repetier Host. My printer is Prusa i3 MK2 1.75mm. The material I used was PLA.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="283" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2017-02-14T05:30:56.890" LastActivityDate="2018-08-08T14:23:24.410" Title="What causes gaps in small region fills and how to prevent them?" Tags="|prusa-i3|slicing|slic3r|repetier-host|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3569" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3573" CreationDate="2017-02-11T04:25:59.960" Score="9" ViewCount="1230" Body="&lt;p&gt;My heatbed won't let go off the prints until it considerably cools down. The cooling process takes decent amount of time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was considering putting the &lt;code&gt;M140 S0&lt;/code&gt; (sets heatbed temp to 0) somewhere near the end of the printing process, so that when the printing is done the cooling is already in process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is that a bad idea? I am asking because if it was 100% perfect idea, slicer would probably do it already.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="283" LastActivityDate="2017-02-17T17:20:24.397" Title="Turning off heatbed for the last few layers. Good idea or not?" Tags="|heated-bed|slicing|g-code|adhesion|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3571" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3568" CreationDate="2017-02-11T16:21:26.873" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had a similar issue as described in &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/3461/why-does-my-domed-print-have-a-thin-shell&quot;&gt;this question&lt;/a&gt;. Curiously, yours is almost opposite as my raised lettering was OK, but the surrounding areas were poorly filled.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I came to the conclusion that Slic3r was simply not able to properly handle the geometry in my part. I tried with Cura and had great results!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5704" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T13:00:58.447" LastActivityDate="2017-02-11T16:21:26.873" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3572" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-02-11T17:04:04.767" Score="1" ViewCount="8258" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am using a Prusa i3 printer and just recently I have been having problems with the first layer. Here is a picture of what it looks like.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ShfZn.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ShfZn.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;First extruded layer on Prusa i3&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have tried levelling the bed and it seems to be level. I was using a glue stick before but it started bubbling on that, so I switched to tape and that worked once but it is not working now. I wiped the tape with rubbing alcohol and it happened again. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What else can I do to get the first layer right?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5400" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2017-02-14T05:30:23.513" LastActivityDate="2019-12-18T20:01:26.423" Title="PLA bubbling in the first layer of a print" Tags="|prusa-i3|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3573" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3569" CreationDate="2017-02-11T17:47:19.877" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's not a bad idea, and you should try it. But only on prints with some height, because:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The goal of the heated bed is to ensure adhesion for the first few layers. Without the heat on the &lt;em&gt;bottom&lt;/em&gt; side of the layer, the layers &lt;em&gt;above&lt;/em&gt; will pull those layers with it as they cool, causing the warp that you see. When your bed is warmer than the layers above, those first layers stay with the warmth. This continues as the layers above are pulled into adhering to the bottom layer instead of going rogue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Print some objects that are taller than 10 layers, and see. When you succeed, get scientific and dial down the amount of layers until you see warp. Then you'll know which object height you can employ this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5991" LastEditorUserId="5991" LastEditDate="2017-02-17T17:20:24.397" LastActivityDate="2017-02-17T17:20:24.397" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3574" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3521" CreationDate="2017-02-11T20:53:39.340" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would give it a try, but dont expect it to be watertight. Print the hull and paint it with some epoxy and you will be fine. (outdoor paint job, epoxy is bad for you)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5970" LastActivityDate="2017-02-11T20:53:39.340" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3575" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3572" CreationDate="2017-02-12T06:57:03.113" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Oh wow. You are way over cooking your PLA. It is bubbling because it is BOILING. I can tell you have it too hot because the lines are all blurred as if they are liquid and pooled together. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said I can't give you details because you didn't post settings. I would start by turning the temps to 170&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C for hotend and 60&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C for plate. Also the gluestick it self should never bubble. It is unclear if that is an issue..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2146" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-12-18T20:00:48.453" LastActivityDate="2019-12-18T20:00:48.453" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="3576" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3568" CreationDate="2017-02-12T07:04:18.247" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The proper term here is Under Extrusion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a lot of reasons this can happen. For my Ultimaker, over time it developed very bad underextrusion due to the build up of carbon. I had to do atomic pulls / increase the extrusion multiplier. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would ...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;verify that you move exactly the amount of plastic you think you are. Mark 200mm of material. Extrude 100. Fix the firmware steps per mm for Extruder if incorrect. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;triple check the filament measurements. Try all along the length. See if the plastic has bad variance.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Verify that it is not printing as expected. Is your slicer generating the gaps? Letters are hard for slicing programs. If it cannot print a full line, it often will print a gap. You can adjust this by allowing greater line overlaps. This is probably what is happening.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2146" LastActivityDate="2017-02-12T07:04:18.247" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3577" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-02-12T10:22:17.747" Score="4" ViewCount="2462" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is my second 3D model, be forgiving... ;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have constructed a 3D model with some bigger solid parts with FreeCAD. After uploading it to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.shapeways.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;onshape&quot;&gt;shapeways&lt;/a&gt;, it turned out to be too expensive to be printed like that. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Googling around, gave me the solution to make it hollow and use a support structure. If you know which exact printer model is doing the print, Slic3r can do the job. But as I want to print with &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.shapeways.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;onshape&quot;&gt;shapeways&lt;/a&gt;, I just know the material, and they are doing the slicing. Obviously without creating support structures in solid parts. Hence, this way does not work in my situation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Searching for an other solution, I found this article, &lt;a href=&quot;http://linuxforanengineer.blogspot.co.at/2014/05/freecad-perforated-metal-sheets.html?m=1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;honeycomb&quot;&gt;FreeCAD: Perforated Sheets and HoneyComb&lt;/a&gt;, describing how to create a honeycomb structure by a little piece of code. I would have to make my part hollow by subtracting a shrunk version of the model and fill it with the honeycomb structure. This sounds feasible to me, but is quiet a certain effort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there an smarter solution to achieve a hollow piece with support structure?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5996" LastEditorUserId="5996" LastEditDate="2017-02-12T18:55:20.490" LastActivityDate="2017-04-25T12:43:26.410" Title="Easy way to create honey comb filling for a generic printer/onshape" Tags="|support-structures|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3578" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3564" CreationDate="2017-02-12T18:08:10.733" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The position matters a lot if you use the default STL file without doing anything in the slicer.  I've used 123D extensively and when I've inadvertently left a gap between the part and bed (and not snapped it to the bed in the slicer), the printer tries to print in mid air.  Use &quot;d&quot; to &quot;drop&quot; the object to the grid.  Different slicers have similar commands that will attach a face to the bed.  I use Simplify3D.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4627" LastActivityDate="2017-02-12T18:08:10.733" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3579" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-02-12T21:12:26.957" Score="3" ViewCount="1120" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd like to paint my prints, which I printed using white PLA, with some colors. I have no idea what type of paint should stick to PLA well. I need paint that will not be soluble in water and will stick good enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What kinds of paints do people use to paint PLA prints?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="283" LastActivityDate="2017-02-13T10:09:10.883" Title="What kind of colors should I use to paint my PLA prints?" Tags="|pla|post-processing|color|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3580" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3579" CreationDate="2017-02-13T10:09:10.883" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Fortunately, PLA accepts many types of paints, most common of them is acrylic paint.&#xA;Acrylic is water-soluble until it dries, then it becomes water-resistant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on the goal you plan to achieve, different types of paints can be used - oil paint, already mentioned acrylic, enamels or lacquers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keeping in mind that manufacturers may present different types of plastic under the same 'PLA' brand, it is always good idea to try selected type of paint on a print sample to ensure that it sticks well enough and not melts the print too much at the same time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3839" LastActivityDate="2017-02-13T10:09:10.883" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3581" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3568" CreationDate="2017-02-13T10:46:26.890" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you look closely at the slicer output, you will probably see that these regions just have outer shells, and no infill. What is happening here is that the part thickness is between 2 and 3 nozzle widths (or possibly between 4 and 5). If you ask for a 1 mm thickness, but only have a 0.4 mm nozzle, it is not easy for the slicer to split this into 2.5 passes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One thing I found would sometimes help is to change the nozzle width setting in the slicer (to maybe 0.39 mm) and this sometimes helps (at the expense of needing to offset the extrusion rate to compensate).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are some rectangles of width 0.3 mm to 1.2 mm (increments of 0.1 mm) sliced in Cura 2.31. The first is 'normal', with wall count set to 2. Next is an inaccurate (small) nozzle setting of 0.38 mm, and finally the correct 0.4 mm nozzle, wall thickness of 1. The last setting shows infill (in yellow) rather than an inner wall (green).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JHPmR.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JHPmR.png&quot; alt=&quot;normal slicing&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;Normal has a gap in anything over 0.8 mm wide.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lB0vc.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lB0vc.png&quot; alt=&quot;0.38mm nozzle&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I reduce the nozzle width, I do get some inner walls, but only where there was already space for 2 walls.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3jMF7.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3jMF7.png&quot; alt=&quot;Single thickness wall&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I only request one wall, the rest infill, (even though I have 20% infill), then the result is as expected. This seems to be a bug in Cura (or at least something which is improved in the version currently in beta).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a bit more detail in this question &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/3121/missing-top-layers-in-cura&quot;&gt;Missing top layers in Cura&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4927" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-08-08T14:23:24.410" LastActivityDate="2018-08-08T14:23:24.410" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="3582" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-02-13T14:23:53.913" Score="6" ViewCount="1730" Body="&lt;p&gt;I´m currently writing my own firmware for a custom Delta printer. Therefore I also need to read G-code from programs like Slic3r. Even with a small example like a cube, I´m struggling to find out where the Z-coordinate is hidden in the code. Here is a small example of the code.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;; generated by Slic3r 1.2.9 on 2017-02-13 at 15:08:01&#xA;&#xA;; external perimeters extrusion width = 0.50mm&#xA;; perimeters extrusion width = 0.58mm&#xA;; infill extrusion width = 0.58mm&#xA;; solid infill extrusion width = 0.58mm&#xA;; top infill extrusion width = 0.58mm&#xA;&#xA;M107&#xA;M104 S205 ; set temperature&#xA;G28 ; home all axes&#xA;G1 Z5 F5000 ; lift nozzle&#xA;&#xA;M109 S205 ; wait for temperature to be reached&#xA;G21 ; set units to millimeters&#xA;G90 ; use absolute coordinates&#xA;M82 ; use absolute distances for extrusion&#xA;G92 E0&#xA;G1 Z0.500 F7800.000&#xA;G1 E-2.00000 F2400.00000&#xA;G92 E0&#xA;G1 X-31.893 Y0.000 F7800.000&#xA;G1 E2.00000 F2400.00000&#xA;G1 X-31.893 Y-25.001 E3.57871 F1800.000&#xA;G1 X-31.496 Y-27.307 E3.72646&#xA;G1 X-30.350 Y-29.347 E3.87420&#xA;G1 X-28.588 Y-30.886 E4.02194&#xA;G1 X-26.413 Y-31.748 E4.16968&#xA;G1 X-25.000 Y-31.894 E4.25936&#xA;G1 X25.000 Y-31.894 E7.41663&#xA;G1 X27.306 Y-31.497 E7.56437&#xA;G1 X29.346 Y-30.351 E7.71211 F1800.000&#xA;G1 X30.885 Y-28.589 E7.85985&#xA;G1 X31.746 Y-26.414 E8.00759&#xA;G1 X31.893 Y-25.001 E8.09727&#xA;G1 X31.893 Y25.001 E11.25470&#xA;G1 X31.496 Y27.307 E11.40244&#xA;G1 X30.350 Y29.347 E11.55019&#xA;G1 X28.588 Y30.886 E11.69793&#xA;G1 X26.413 Y31.748 E11.84567&#xA;G1 X25.000 Y31.894 E11.93535&#xA;G1 X-25.000 Y31.894 E15.09262&#xA;G1 X-27.306 Y31.497 E15.24036&#xA;G1 X-29.346 Y30.351 E15.38810&#xA;G1 X-30.885 Y28.589 E15.53584&#xA;G1 X-31.746 Y26.414 E15.68358&#xA;G1 X-31.893 Y25.001 E15.77326&#xA;G1 X-31.893 Y0.075 E17.34724&#xA;G1 E15.34724 F2400.00000&#xA;G92 E0&#xA;G1 X-22.715 Y-22.716 F7800.000&#xA;G1 E2.00000 F2400.00000&#xA;G1 X22.715 Y-22.716 E4.86865 F1800.000&#xA;G1 X22.715 Y22.716 E7.73745&#xA;G1 X-22.715 Y22.716 E10.60609&#xA;G1 X-22.715 Y-22.641 E13.47016&#xA;G1 X-23.607 Y-23.609 F7800.000&#xA;G1 X23.607 Y-23.609 E16.45155 F1800.000&#xA;G1 X23.607 Y23.608 E19.43309&#xA;G1 X-23.607 Y23.608 E22.41447&#xA;G1 X-23.607 Y-23.534 E25.39128&#xA;G1 X-24.500 Y-24.501 F7800.000&#xA;G1 X24.500 Y-24.501 E28.48541 F1800.000&#xA;G1 X24.500 Y24.501 E31.57969&#xA;G1 X-24.500 Y24.501 E34.67382&#xA;G1 X-24.500 Y-24.426 E37.76336&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are some configuration details:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;G-code flavor: RepRap&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Nozzle diameter: 0,5 mm&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Filament diameter: 3 mm&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Layer height: 0,4 mm&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Perimeters: 3&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Solid layers top: 3&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Solid layers bottom: 3&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I will also provide the &lt;a href=&quot;http://pastebin.com/YW05y3ze&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;full G-code&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6008" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2024-01-22T15:26:40.793" LastActivityDate="2024-01-22T17:55:24.940" Title="Where to find Z coordinate in G-code for Delta printer" Tags="|slicing|slic3r|g-code|delta|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="3583" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3582" CreationDate="2017-02-13T16:50:20.383" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It isn't hidden at all. It's just that the Z-axis position only changes with each layer change, so the Z coordinate is only passed at layer change. On line 19 of your example G-code, it starts the first layer at Z=0.5mm:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;G1 Z0.500 F7800.000&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The next time you should expect Z to appear is on the next layer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2024-01-22T17:55:24.940" LastActivityDate="2024-01-22T17:55:24.940" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="3584" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3582" CreationDate="2017-02-13T16:50:58.317" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your included code has a line which reads:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;G1 Z0.500&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I checked a couple of my G-code files for some of the past prints and I was able to identify the bed movement relative to the layer being printed. My slicer (Simplify3D) provides for the bed to drop during certain movements. I found &lt;code&gt;G1 Z0.600&lt;/code&gt; followed by &lt;code&gt;G1 Z0.850&lt;/code&gt; for one of the layers. When that layer was finished the &lt;code&gt;0.600&lt;/code&gt; changed to &lt;code&gt;0.900&lt;/code&gt; and the &lt;code&gt;0.850&lt;/code&gt; changed to &lt;code&gt;1.150&lt;/code&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This fit in with the model's layer height of 0.300 mm for that job.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did not find more &lt;code&gt;G1 Zx.xxx&lt;/code&gt; codes in your sample, but a larger file would contain those lines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2017-02-16T21:59:21.143" LastActivityDate="2017-02-16T21:59:21.143" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3585" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-02-13T18:35:33.250" Score="2" ViewCount="2486" Body="&lt;p&gt;Question: Can a &quot;ZMin-while-probing&quot; be set? &#xA;Meaning a minimum Z height the printer bed can move to, while Z Probing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Purpose: For safety reasons should the probe switch not fire for some reason.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;--&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;in Marlin Configuration.h, I see you can set the height of the Z Axis before deploying the ZProbe:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;code&gt;#define Z_PROBE_DEPLOY_HEIGHT 35&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the context of this question, this is effectively a &quot;ZMax-while-probing&quot;, i.e the lowest possible the print bed will be before Z Probing commences.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am looking for a &quot;ZMin-while-probing&quot; equivalent.  The reason for this is just an added safety check - I know that if the probe switch doesn't fire by Z&amp;lt;=25, then it is not going to, and with this particular printer configuration, that would result in the Z Probe being driven into the printer bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does a setting already exist to create a sanity-check here?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4965" LastActivityDate="2017-04-18T15:39:04.747" Title="Marlin: possible to set ZMin limit when ZProbing?" Tags="|marlin|z-probe|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3586" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3589" CreationDate="2017-02-13T19:41:31.437" Score="5" ViewCount="2962" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I wanted to add my own custom M Codes in Marlin - in which source code file would I do that? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4965" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2017-02-15T15:37:15.323" LastActivityDate="2017-02-15T15:37:15.323" Title="Adding custom M Codes to Marlin" Tags="|marlin|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3587" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-02-14T00:04:24.520" Score="6" ViewCount="3532" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to Wikipedia, Tetrahydrofuran dissolves PLA. It also apparently dissolves PET.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;THF is considered a relatively nontoxic solvent, with the median lethal dose (LD&lt;sub&gt;50&lt;/sub&gt;) comparable to that for acetone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wikipedia further states that it's not particularly dangerous provided you keep it away from air circulation, so that it does not form peroxides.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;One danger posed by THF follows from its tendency to form highly explosive peroxides on storage in air.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So well, this seems acceptable compared to other possible solvents which are all ridiculously dangerous. The question at hand is now of practical nature:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is Tetrahudrofuran actually viable replacement for acetone, which only works with ABS?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am asking because the fact that it does dissolve PLA does not really at all mean that it will work well. It could damage PLA structure, be more toxic than wikipedia says or not dry well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="283" LastActivityDate="2019-09-20T10:47:35.297" Title="Is Tetrahydrofuran viable for dissolving PLA and sticking PLA objects together?" Tags="|pla|safety|post-processing|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3588" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3587" CreationDate="2017-02-14T03:11:54.450" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;From what I have read, THF is not super effective, it seems that Dichloromethane or DCM is actually a better solvent.  Unfortunately I have no personal experience with either. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is rather nasty though, as the LD&lt;sub&gt;50&lt;/sub&gt; is just 0.5 to 5 g/kg&lt;sup&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.researchgate.net/post/Solubility_of_PLA&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;[1]&lt;/a&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://groups.google.com/forum/#!topic/ultimaker/8s1bq_9LsRM&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;[2]&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6017" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2019-01-03T17:57:25.017" LastActivityDate="2019-01-03T17:57:25.017" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="3589" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3586" CreationDate="2017-02-14T05:17:14.520" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the file &lt;code&gt;Marlin_main.cpp&lt;/code&gt; on line 7131 there is a switch case:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(To turn on line numbers go to &lt;code&gt;File&amp;gt;Preferences&lt;/code&gt; and click Display line numbers.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;case 'M': switch (codenum) {&#xA;  #if ENABLED(ULTIPANEL)&#xA;    case 0: // M0 - Unconditional stop - Wait for user button press on LCD&#xA;    case 1: // M1 - Conditional stop - Wait for user button press on LCD&#xA;      gcode_M0_M1();&#xA;      break;&#xA;  #endif // ULTIPANEL&#xA;&#xA;  case 17:&#xA;    gcode_M17();&#xA;    break;&#xA;  etc.....&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Adding another case with an unused number such as 5 and then the code you want followed by a break should do the trick. Ex:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;case 5:&#xA;   doABunchofCoolStuff();&#xA;   myservo.write(thebestposition);&#xA;   break;&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;-AC&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4251" LastActivityDate="2017-02-14T05:17:14.520" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3590" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-02-14T07:45:29.017" Score="1" ViewCount="225" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a cheap cartesian printer with the usual arrangement - X axis with three linear bearings, build plate moving as Y axis on three linear bearings as well, Z axis with lead screws. After about 2 kg of filament printed, I can see that one of the linear bearings (the single bearing on one side of the Y axis) is leaving an almost black residue at the front of the axis. I have thoroughly oiled all of the bearings before mounting them and repeated that after about 1 kg of filament printed. No other bearing is showing this issue, and the black goo appears only on the front side of the rod, not the back side. What might cause this goo - is the bearing breaking up or is it just some residue from the manufacturing process that is slowly being pushed out of the bearing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4620" LastActivityDate="2017-03-12T01:44:41.347" Title="Black goo from only one linear bearing - serious issue?" Tags="|bearing|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3591" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3592" CreationDate="2017-02-14T11:25:55.430" Score="2" ViewCount="7776" Body="&lt;p&gt;Using a 3D pen I printed a small box. However, I was doing it on plain paper and of course the paper didn't come off the plastic very well. It didn't matter for that specific case, but if I want to print something else, which non-sticky surface would you recommend? Is there any way to use transparent surface (so that I can put a paper with picture as a guide under it)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5788" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2022-02-18T09:53:28.710" LastActivityDate="2022-02-18T15:19:50.403" Title="I am using a stereo 3D pen. What surface should I use?" Tags="|build-surface|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3592" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3591" CreationDate="2017-02-14T12:36:23.247" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could use a piece of glass, that's what most people using 3D printers have as a build surface.  An easy source of glass for pen use would be a picture frame but the edges are likely sharp so be careful.  Acrylic would also work and is easily obtained in small pieces from places like Lowes/Home Depot, I used Acrylic for some time on my Kossel.  The plastic can stick to Acrylic very well but I had no issues using it with my printer, just test it out and see what process works if you go that route.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="233" LastActivityDate="2017-02-14T12:36:23.247" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3593" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3590" CreationDate="2017-02-14T14:19:46.927" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;After completion of the print job, I was able to perform a closer inspection. The black goo contains metallic particles, and the rail the bearings are riding on has a visible groove - which means replacing both the bearings and the rail.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4620" LastActivityDate="2017-02-14T14:19:46.927" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3594" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="212" CreationDate="2017-02-14T22:36:25.327" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most printers use between 2000 and 5000 mm/s&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;.... extrusion moves are usually 2000 (on average, between different printers), travel is normally seen at 3000-5000, though for most lower end or duel direct drive extruder (heavy) printers, this value should be lower (some as low as 500-1000, some as high as 2000 for travel). Heavier extruders need lower values, as well a slower jerk values, to avoid the motors skipping. The jerk setting being set lower can actually be beneficial, as this makes for smoother extrusion after a corner or a hole (some people will see ripples near these areas as it accelerates out of the direction change - lower values make these ripples smaller, but slightly increase print time).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've just modified mine with a prototype carriage design that I'm working on. It's added about 100 grams to the stock weight. It was finely tuned before, so this extra weight set it over that pillow of 20-30% in the setting, and makes the X and Y skip as it jerks around the plate; especially in high resolution models, particularly high resolution circles with 200 faces on the vertical axis, because the printer tries to jerk after each node - normally that isn't an issue, but in heavy designs, the jerk setting needs to be lowered. I had my jerk at 20 for XY, and its now at 4, after having tested and failed 8 and 15 values. The acceleration was at 2000 for both extrusion and travel (some firmwares don't allow separate values for travel and extrusion moves, but if yours does, it's best to have travel value about double the print moves - when your travel is twice the speed of extrusion moves - so use that 1-1 formula in relation to speed, scale it for each desired speed set in the slicer). Mine has been tested at 2000, 1500, 1000, and 800, failing all of them, with jerk setting of 5. Now testing 500 for acceleration, and beginning to get a little confused as to why this is happening. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now I'm having second thoughts... After going as low as 800 from 2000, and still getting skipping (seemingly worse) am I getting this backwards here? Do I need a higher value if the motor is skipping on quick moves? My understanding is that lower is better for those problems, but perhaps I've confused myself. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6030" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2017-02-16T20:31:56.920" LastActivityDate="2017-02-16T20:31:56.920" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3595" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-02-14T23:37:12.470" Score="5" ViewCount="1406" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've recently initialized OctoPi onto my Raspberry Pi, proceeded to connect it to my local internet, and then connected it to my FlashForge Creator Pro (2014 edition)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Everything seemed to be going smoothly until I tried to connect to the printer; the Pi didn't seem to be able to pick up a usable Baudrate (after being trying out all of the usable ones).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, when trying out 9600, I would get:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Trying baudrate: 9600&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Send: N0 M110 N0*125&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Recv: ��r&amp;gt;#    ���&amp;amp; �&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What should I do to fix the problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Note that I got the same types of messages back (with garbled 'special' characters) when trying using the &amp;quot;&lt;strong&gt;auto connect&lt;/strong&gt;&amp;quot; feature.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2673" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:29:41.667" LastActivityDate="2021-01-31T03:13:33.897" Title="Issues with OctoPi connecting to FlashForge Creator Pro via Serial Communication" Tags="|octoprint|raspberry-pi|serial-connection|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="3596" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3603" CreationDate="2017-02-15T02:17:27.410" Score="4" ViewCount="1495" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Prusa i3 that homes properly when you use the menu. After adjusting the bed and homing several times, it keeps the head at a reliable distance. However, when I try to print from an SD card, the printer buries the hot end in the heat bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What needs to be adjusted to fix this issue?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;G-code from one of the 2 files&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;M190 S50.000000&#xA;M109 S200.000000&#xA;;Sliced at: Mon 13-06-2016 15:39:25&#xA;;Basic settings: Layer height: 0.2 Walls: 1.2 Fill: 20&#xA;;Print time: 3 hours 47 minutes&#xA;;Filament used: 11.435m 34.0g&#xA;;Filament cost: None&#xA;;M190 S50 ;Uncomment to add your own bed temperature line&#xA;;M109 S200 ;Uncomment to add your own temperature line&#xA;G21        ;metric values&#xA;G90        ;absolute positioning&#xA;M82        ;set extruder to absolute mode&#xA;M107       ;start with the fan off&#xA;G28 X0 Y0  ;move X/Y to min endstops&#xA;G28 Z0     ;move Z to min endstops&#xA;G1 Z15.0 F3000 ;move the platform down 15mm&#xA;G92 E0                  ;zero the extruded length&#xA;G1 F200 E3              ;extrude 3mm of feed stock&#xA;G92 E0                  ;zero the extruded length again&#xA;G1 F3000&#xA;;Put printing message on LCD screen&#xA;M117 Printing...&#xA;&#xA;;Layer count: 446&#xA;;LAYER:0&#xA;M107&#xA;;LAYER:1&#xA;M106 S127&#xA;G1 F2400 E-4.50000&#xA;G0 F3000 X81.474 Y58.603 Z0.300&#xA;;TYPE:WALL-INNER&#xA;G1 F2400 E0.00000&#xA;G1 F2220 X83.063 Y56.456 E0.06663&#xA;G1 X84.277 Y55.080 E0.11240&#xA;G1 X84.836 Y54.444 E0.13353&#xA;G1 X85.799 Y53.476 E0.16759&#xA;G1 X86.755 Y52.587 E0.20015&#xA;G1 X87.179 Y52.244 E0.21376&#xA;G1 X88.836 Y50.911 E0.26680&#xA;G1 X89.285 Y50.610 E0.28029&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6033" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-05-26T19:53:09.273" LastActivityDate="2021-05-26T19:53:09.273" Title="Printer homes to Z stop-switch, but presses on heat bed during printing" Tags="|prusa-i3|calibration|z-axis|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="3597" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3596" CreationDate="2017-02-15T13:04:03.413" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You didn't share much details, which is problem with any question. But let me give some recommendations - I have Prusa i3 MK2 1.75mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The fact that it homes correctly does not at all mean that your Y axis is OK.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Verify that PINDA probe's bottom end is &lt;strong&gt;maximum&lt;/strong&gt; 1 millimeter above the extruder head.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Double check that PINDA probe is correctly screwed and does not wiggle.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Manually check that the printer does not allow you to toutch heatbed with extruder, follow these steps:&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wait for both heatbed and hot end to cool down.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Put paper sheet on heatbed&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Go to Menu - Settings - Move Axis - Z Axis&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Move the axis down. If hot end toutches and presses on the paper, the calibration is not OK at all.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://manual.prusa3d.com/Guide/Upgrading+firmware/66&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Updating your firmware&lt;/a&gt; can't hurt if you didn't do it already.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this advice does not help you, please update the question to address the following questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How does your G-code beginning work? Ideally, share some short G-code, I could easily check whether it is correct with my printer.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Does XYZ calibration pass correctly in your printer?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Take a picture of your extruder so that both PINDA and extruder are visible&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="283" LastEditorUserId="283" LastEditDate="2017-02-15T13:17:34.367" LastActivityDate="2017-02-15T13:17:34.367" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3598" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16748" CreationDate="2017-02-15T13:08:29.087" Score="11" ViewCount="2001" Body="&lt;p&gt;So they say PLA is biodegradable. But I still don't know how much biodegradable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I live in a flat and we have composting trash can in the courtyard. However if I throw PLA in there and it does not decompose, neighbors are gonna be pissed since many of them are intending to use the soil for their balcony flowers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So can I really compost PLA, or does &amp;quot;biodegradable&amp;quot; just mean it falls apart &lt;em&gt;eventually&lt;/em&gt;, eg. in years? And &lt;strong&gt;if&lt;/strong&gt; it decomposes, is it safe to use for plants?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="283" LastEditorUserId="283" LastEditDate="2023-12-06T14:08:51.947" LastActivityDate="2023-12-06T14:08:51.947" Title="Can I really throw failed PLA prints on compost?" Tags="|pla|recycling|waste|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3599" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2017-02-15T13:10:18.783" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-02-15T13:10:18.783" LastActivityDate="2017-02-15T13:10:18.783" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3600" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2017-02-15T13:10:18.783" Score="0" Body="For questions about dealing with waste products of 3D printing including various chemicals used in the printing and post-processing process. " OwnerUserId="283" LastEditorUserId="283" LastEditDate="2017-02-15T23:08:09.067" LastActivityDate="2017-02-15T23:08:09.067" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3601" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3598" CreationDate="2017-02-15T15:11:05.133" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;PLA products will take up to 6 months to degrade in commercial composting facility. In home composting facility, it may take longer time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Source: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.biogreenchoice.com/category_s/1866.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.biogreenchoice.com/category_s/1866.htm&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1778" LastActivityDate="2017-02-15T15:11:05.133" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3603" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3596" CreationDate="2017-02-15T19:03:57.270" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The correlation between the endstop switch  -- or sensor -- and the surface of the bed is not known &lt;em&gt;a priori&lt;/em&gt; .  In your case, there are two possibilities.  I'd say the more likely is that your g-code generator is not setting the Z-height offset from the bed correctly.   The other is that your bed is tilted, so proper Z-home at one corner does not match the entire bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Try this:  first manually move the extruder head to all four corners and adjust the bed screws until the separation is identical at all times.   Then let your gcode start up -- and don't worry if the extruder depresses the bed during homing, as that doesn't matter.  See where the extruder is once the print starts.  Adjust the endstop switch up or down to compensate until the print head &lt;strong&gt;when printing&lt;/strong&gt; is just off the surface and the first layer adheres well.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If all that doesn't work, then you may have the wrong printer profile settings in your slicing softwqre. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2191" LastActivityDate="2017-02-15T19:03:57.270" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3604" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3598" CreationDate="2017-02-15T19:08:52.460" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;This question has been asked on just about every forum out there.  Here's one example from &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.filabot.com/blogs/news/57233604-the-misleading-biodegradability-of-pla&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;filabot.com&lt;/a&gt; .&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reality however, is that this process will take several hundred&#xA;years in a typical landfill. To biodegrade, PLA requires a laundry&#xA;list of conditions to effectively break down. Specifically - oxygen, a&#xA;temperature of 140+ degrees &lt;em&gt;[Fahrenheit -- ed note]&lt;/em&gt;, and a 2/3 cocktail of organic substrate.&#xA;Collectively, these are absent in any scenario outside of industrial&#xA;composting facilities.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found similar comments -- tho' with perhaps slightly lower temperatures elsewhere.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2191" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2022-05-25T07:19:42.043" LastActivityDate="2022-05-25T07:19:42.043" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="3605" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3606" CreationDate="2017-02-15T16:44:09.693" Score="37" ViewCount="20342" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there anything to the process of 3D printing that might make the dice unfair/land on a specific side more frequently? Or will any imperfections be negligible, thus making the dice fair? I'm more concerned about making a d20 than anything else, so focus on that shape if need be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am using a MakerBot Replicator+ with FDM, so take this into consideration if it affects your answer, and if you believe a different printing process would have an advantage over this don't hesitate to include it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6044" OwnerDisplayName="Jaich" LastEditorUserId="6044" LastEditDate="2017-02-17T15:22:27.993" LastActivityDate="2017-06-05T21:59:18.813" Title="Will 3D Printed Dice Be Fair?" Tags="|3d-models|3d-design|" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3606" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3605" CreationDate="2017-02-15T16:55:56.340" Score="33" Body="&lt;h2&gt;It probably won't be fair.&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Incidentally, I have a decent amount of experience with 3D printing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It depends heavily on the particular technology that you're using to do the 3D printing, but nearly all forms of printing aren't perfect--depending on the design you make (solid? honeycombed? hollow?), there will be slight, or not-so-slight variations across the faces, which will result in an unfair die. In particular, the faces that are parallel to the build surface will probably be different compared to the ones that are angled.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could probably deal with some of these problems with some kind of post-processing, but honestly at that point buying dice would be easier. 3D printing is for making custom or prototype objects, and isn't really suited to mass production of simple shapes like dice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even manufactured dice have some imperfections, and a slightly unfair die probably won't make much of a difference in gameplay, but it will be hard for you to determine whether the imperfections from 3D printing are severe enough to make the die unfair without rolling it many times and looking at its distribution. Again, at that point, it's easier to just buy the dice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That being said, custom d20s can be super cool looking, and if you're going to 3D print something, might as well make it look cool...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6045" OwnerDisplayName="Icyfire" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:29:41.667" LastActivityDate="2017-02-16T16:19:45.103" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3607" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3119" CreationDate="2017-02-15T20:51:36.653" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You ask some very interesting questions! Firstly, when researching topics such as this, you will have far more luck using 'additive manufacturing' as a search term rather than '3D printing'. In the professional industrial environment, '3D printing' is not a term that is really used to describe the manufacturing you are talking about.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Selective laser melting is the additive manufacturing process most suited to metallic aerospace parts. Inconel alloys can be processed (e.g. IN718 being one of the easiest) along with titanium (almost exclusively Ti6Al4V). As for manufacturing turbine blades and similar parts, you might find this interesting: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.siemens.com/innovation/en/home/pictures-of-the-future/industry-and-automation/additive-manufacturing-3d-printed-gas-turbine-blades.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Additive Manufacturing - Breakthrough with 3D printed Gas Turbine Blades&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Titanium is not typically used in high-temperature sections of gas turbines, but will be used in larger, cooler components such as fan blades, where it's strength to weigh ratio is a benefit (less mass to rotate = better fuel efficiency).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Coating of high-temperature nickel superalloy components is usually performed with electron beam physical vapor deposition (EBPVD) or thermal spray such as high-velocity oxy-fuel (HVOF); each process has certain characteristics that dictate when/where is it used. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is only really a surface depth answer to your questions, but it would be impossible to answer fully here!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(My experience: PhD student using selective laser melting with aerospace alloys)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6046" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2017-02-16T20:31:23.697" LastActivityDate="2017-02-16T20:31:23.697" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3608" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3605" CreationDate="2017-02-15T22:29:21.637" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Custom 3D printed dice are distinctly lower quality than the dice from a FLGS you see in 'standard' dice sets, and around the same quality of die as the cheaper plastic dice available online.  It depends somewhat on your printer, but you can get very uniform results in terms of material density with the issues in die fairness being limited to problems with the surfaces (e.g. the sides aren't usually all the same texture).  You can fix this with statistical modelling and sanding to get a very good die, but it takes forever and is a huge pain and is totally not worth it from a practical standpoint.  A quick sanding to get all faces roughly the same texture is usually good enough, in my experience.  You can also just print the die so that the build-surface face and the face parallel with it (if it's not a d4) are unimportant faces, like the '10' and '11' on a d20-- being smoother they'll be rolled a little less often but the average roll will be the same regardless of what number pair that effects if you keep the 'opposite sides sum to die size + 1' rule.  A quick sanding doesn't take too long and works well, though; that's definitely what I would recommend from my experience.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a note, the main &lt;em&gt;advantage&lt;/em&gt; in 3d printing dice is that it's affordable, whereas otherwise acquiring truly custom dice (weighted to specification, unusual number of sides, etc) requires you to make them by hand or shell out &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.awesomedice.com/blog/545/custom-dice-manufacturing/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;many thousands of dollars&lt;/a&gt;.  3d printed dice are particularly useful when you want to concoct biased dice, as you can easily alter things like the physical die size, weight (by altering how much of the interior is hollow), weight distribution (by altering &lt;em&gt;where&lt;/em&gt; the hollow cavities are-- known as 'floaters' when these gaps are used to bias the roll, much less good than weighting), and number placement to conceal the differences between your die and a 'fair' die you 3d printed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my experience, 3d printed dice work fine for RPGs, but feel a little light (at least with my feedstock).  I used them for a bit with a group I GMed for while on a bit of a 3d printing kick, and they definitely have some niche uses, but beautiful high-quality dice with a good feel to them are so cheap nowadays I just don't see any reason to go to the expense and trouble when you can avoid it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6047" LastActivityDate="2017-02-15T22:29:21.637" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3609" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3605" CreationDate="2017-02-15T23:04:18.967" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well it is a bit more complicated than that. Changes are the d20 you buy in the store is a bit more favored as well. Now we are talking statically, it will like one side over the other. As the difference in weight distribution is not drastic if you print it solid, it will not matter. In use you likely will not see it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said if you wanted to be extra sure.. I would use the 3d printed model, make a silicon mold with it. Then use Resin to make the dice. Now you can start making whole batches of dice as good as what you get in the store.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My final answer is, technically it will favor but you will not notice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2146" LastActivityDate="2017-02-15T23:04:18.967" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3610" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3591" CreationDate="2017-02-15T23:10:31.047" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Someone trying to get a surface to not stick. This is a first. I would try glass first. If you still have issues, I would look into coated surface, like an old tefflon pan (do not cook with PLA residue). I would suggest oil but you might start a fire.. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2146" LastActivityDate="2017-02-15T23:10:31.047" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3611" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3605" CreationDate="2017-02-16T06:48:20.547" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Pretty much all die are unfair to an extent. If you are seriously concerned about accuracy then you will need to test what you produce and, if not satisfactory, modify the design reprint and retest. A simple/coarse test is to float your die in very salty water and note which face faces upwards, repeatedly perturb the die noting the upwards face. Any egregious bias should reveal itself after a handful of perturbations. Note that this test only reveals that a die has a bias, not which face it is biased to land on. It's also probably not massively accurate but should be good enough to let you gauge whether your printed die are any worse than your shop bought ones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6055" LastActivityDate="2017-02-16T06:48:20.547" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3613" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-02-16T13:15:45.913" Score="9" ViewCount="645" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have &lt;a href=&quot;https://ultimaker.com/en/products/ultimaker-2-plus&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Ultimaker 2+&quot;&gt;Ultimaker 2+ 3D Printer&lt;/a&gt; and I need to print a piece that doesn't fit within the build volume of the printer. Even though it would fit I'd still need to print it in two parts because I'll need to fit some equipment inside. I could use glue to put it together, but I'll need to remove the equipment later.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I'm trying to find some feasible solutions how to attach/snap it together. The wall thickness is currently 3mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FFckZ.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Cut Plane&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FFckZ.png&quot; alt=&quot;Cut Plane&quot; title=&quot;Cut Plane&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Plane for cutting the part.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/L2hhV.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Cut Cross Section&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/L2hhV.png&quot; alt=&quot;Cross Section where I split the part&quot; title=&quot;Cut Cross Section&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cut cross section.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6063" LastEditorUserId="854" LastEditDate="2017-02-16T14:29:30.890" LastActivityDate="2017-03-02T12:23:40.957" Title="Feasible 3D Printed Snap Connectors" Tags="|3d-design|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3614" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3591" CreationDate="2017-02-16T15:26:22.723" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You might want to experiment using Kapton tape. Although it's yellow-coloured, it is transparent and provides a good surface for hit-bed adhesion. You should be able to remove it from your print by flexing it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Attaching it to your paper sheet is a one-way process, but you can use guide marks on the paper below.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4927" LastActivityDate="2017-02-16T15:26:22.723" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3615" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3613" CreationDate="2017-02-16T18:50:52.637" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the equipment has to be removable, then there's no point in trying to make a one-piece object in the first place.  So it looks like you have two problems. The first is to decide what's the best way to split your container to facilitate both putting the equipment inside &amp;amp; removing it; the second is how to latch the two together.  I can't answer the first since you haven't shown us the equipment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As to the second: there are a number of plans for spring-latching connectors (such as used with straps, backpack covers, etc) on thingiverse.com.  If you have no constraints on the exterior of your container, I would just merge the latching connectors into the container wall (e.g. with meshmixer) .&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2191" LastActivityDate="2017-02-16T18:50:52.637" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3616" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3121" CreationDate="2017-02-17T11:14:12.100" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is happening here is that Cura is struggling with the quantised extrusion width. This behaviour can be improved in the slicer, they have a issue tracked here &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/Ultimaker/Cura/issues/1303&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://github.com/Ultimaker/Cura/issues/1303&lt;/a&gt; and 2.4 beta has improved it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are some pictures in this &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/3581/4927&quot;&gt;answer&lt;/a&gt; which show how Cura 2.3 slices a rectangle of increasing width. I got nothing at the nozzle width, then a pair of overlapping lines up to twice the width (which I assume will be over-extruded due to the overlap). For anything wider than simply two sides, the result depends on the number of walls requested.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;One wall results in 100% infill for small regions (regardless of the infill setting). This is good, but maybe 1 wall is not apropriate for the whole model.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Multiple walls seem to prevent the infill untill there is space for pairs of walls. So width of 3x nozzle has a gap. Small tweeks to the nozzle size can maybe push this quantisation point about, if 1 wall is not a good workaround.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For rectangular geometry, it's worth trying to quantize small parts in 0.8mm increments. For curves, setting 1 wall shell might be better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4927" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T13:00:58.447" LastActivityDate="2017-02-17T11:14:12.100" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3617" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3625" CreationDate="2017-02-18T04:44:33.427" Score="6" ViewCount="1216" Body="&lt;p&gt;This has happened a few times whenever I print with the white PLA (Hatchbox 1.75 mm). It seems that the print job produces smooth sidewalls for most of the part but at a certain point and above, the walls become rough as if the alignment is off or something. I've attached a picture to show the issue. Does anybody have any insight?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/796O7.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/796O7.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Problem demonstration&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm using a Printrbot Simple Metal and some of the print settings are listed below:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Slicer: Slic3r&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;[First] Layer height: 0.2 mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Perimeters: 2&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Solid Layers [top/bottom]: 3&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Infill: 25%&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fill pattern: Rectilinear&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Top/Bottom Fill pattern: Concentric&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Perimeter speed: 30 mm/s&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Infill speed: 80 mm/s&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Travel speed: 150 mm/s&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Acceleration (perimeters): 1000 mm/s&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Acceleration (default): 3000mm/s&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Default extrusion width: Slic3r chosen&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Print temperature: 220°C&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've noticed in the Slic3r rendering that the affected area seems to be the point where the infill switches from 25% to solid as seen in the included picture. If this is the problem, is there any way to enforce solid infill a few layers below this to eliminate the awkward transition, or specify a smaller extrusion width at this point?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DfWDP.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DfWDP.png&quot; alt=&quot;Screenshot of infill switch&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5938" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2017-02-20T06:19:38.107" LastActivityDate="2017-02-20T06:19:38.107" Title="White PLA prints frequently have rough sidewalls near top of the print" Tags="|print-quality|fdm|desktop-printer|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3618" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3617" CreationDate="2017-02-18T07:31:28.503" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Slic3r has an option of&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Solid infill threshold area &#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;which is the area that when you pass it (and start printing smaller than it), the infill becomes solid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you set it to a smaller number (or 0), then your infill won't become solid and the problem will vanish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Source: &lt;a href=&quot;http://manual.slic3r.org/expert-mode/infill-optimization&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;slic3r manual&quot;&gt;Slic3r Manual - Infill Optimization&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6090" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2017-02-19T16:57:27.283" LastActivityDate="2017-02-19T16:57:27.283" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3619" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-02-18T12:03:27.493" Score="4" ViewCount="3338" Body="&lt;p&gt;The question is how to scale an existing mesh without changing the thickness of the walls?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am using Blender to create STL files for 3D printing. Let's say I create a shell for a model railroad car. Since 1/87th is the most common scale I make the walls of the shell just thick enough to make it rigid in 1/87 scale. Now, if I want to print the same shell in a larger scale, say 1/48, the wall thickness will nearly double and it will waste material printing walls that are thicker than needed. If I want to print in 1/160 the printing may fail because the wall thickness falls below the minimum the printer will support. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6092" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2020-07-13T11:43:01.077" LastActivityDate="2020-07-13T11:43:01.077" Title="Scaling objects with constant wall thickness for 3D printing" Tags="|print-quality|blender|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3620" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3619" CreationDate="2017-02-18T19:47:32.680" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your question falls into two different categories, here at 3D Printing SE and there, at &lt;a href=&quot;https://blender.stackexchange.com/&quot;&gt;Blender SE&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would consider that your objective would best be solved using some form of parametric modeling, an aspect that is rarely embraced by Blender. Even though the limitations of Blender make life interesting for you, there may be a couple of useful features within (and without) the program.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On &lt;a href=&quot;https://blender.stackexchange.com/questions/53293/is-blender-actually-useable-for-engineering&quot;&gt;Blender SE&lt;/a&gt;, a question of similar format exists, with a somewhat open-ended answer. A quick search using The Google, with the terms &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/#q=parametric+modeling+with+blender&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Parametric Modeling with Blender&lt;/a&gt;&quot; results in a number of different approaches. According to a quick perusal of the search results, some of the solutions involve free plug-ins or add-ons for Blender. More complexity rather than less, perhaps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm familiar enough with the very simple basics of Blender to know I would not be able to make use of those answers. I'm also well aware that Blender's power extends beyond my own limitations with features supporting scripting, animation and so many other tools. Seeing the workflow diagrams/charts that make up some of the advanced portion of the program leads me to believe that one can accomplish your objective, but one must be a certified wizard with the program. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As an alternative, one could engage any one of the many parametric modeling programs available. I'm a fan of OpenSCAD, although the text/scripting interface can be daunting for some. If you've become skilled in Blender, a non-GUI format isn't necessarily the best route, although the GUI options are no less confusing, in my opinion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:57:47.393" LastActivityDate="2017-02-19T22:25:29.220" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3621" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-02-18T20:29:16.973" Score="6" ViewCount="230" Body="&lt;p&gt;A plastic gear of an older DVD player broke. I always read about being 3D printing a &quot;repair revolution&quot;. So I looked for a template to give to some printing service, but I found none (and nothing close to it).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could you please explain me, what steps a layman should take to get the gear piece replaced using 3D printing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6099" LastEditorUserId="6099" LastEditDate="2017-02-19T07:25:25.903" LastActivityDate="2017-02-20T12:40:54.373" Title="How does a layman get a 3D printed replacement part?" Tags="|3d-models|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3622" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3621" CreationDate="2017-02-18T22:54:16.027" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have the remaining pieces of the gear and enough remains to determine certain measurements, one can either engineer the gear using a number of gear modeling designs, or one can take measurements directly from the parts and engineer a raw design.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the gear you have is not particularly peculiar, it is possible to use a gear generator plug-in, template, or library to make the &quot;foundation&quot; of your gear. The modeling software would then be used to add the appropriate bosses and key ways required to complete the design.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are considering to create the part yourself, you have a wide selection of programs from which to choose. I'm fond of OpenSCAD, and it does have &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thingiverse.com/akaziuna/collections/openscad-gear-scripts&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;a number of gear libraries&lt;/a&gt;. Simple bosses and key ways are easily accomplished using &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.openscad.org/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;OpenSCAD&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jPb52.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jPb52.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Thingiverse gear image&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another package available on the internet which includes the option of using a gear generator is &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.instructables.com/id/Gearing-up-in-TinkerCad/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Tinkercad&lt;/a&gt; which has a reputation of being easy to use. You'll find many tutorials for this program as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tinkercad requires an &quot;outside&quot; program to generate the gear design which is then imported to the model workspace. Even a program as simple as Inkscape can create gear profiles to be imported into many design packages.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fusion360 is available free for hobby or non-commercial use, but may not be the easiest to learn in a short time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So many others as well. Use your favorite search engine for &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/#q=gear+generator+modeling+software&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;gear generator modeling software&lt;/a&gt;&quot; or similar wording and be overloaded with links.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastActivityDate="2017-02-18T22:54:16.027" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3623" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3621" CreationDate="2017-02-18T23:15:00.463" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is not something &quot;a layman&quot; can do. If you want to replace that gear using 3D printing, you'll either need to go down the rabbit hole and learn a bunch of new skills, or hire someone to do it for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You need to have a 3D model of the part you want to replace. While 3D scanning is in some cases possible, it won't give you the resolution required to reproduce the gear with sufficient accuracy. This means your only option is to manually model the gear in CAD software. You'll need to take a bunch of measurements (outer and pitch diameter, thickness, mounting hole diameter) and figure out the tooth profile, and then build a model according to those measurements. A caliper is very helpful when doing this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A neat trick that might help with a flat part like a gear is to scan it on a flatbed scanner, and then use the resulting photo to trace your CAD sketch over (but you'd still need to cross-reference it with measurements).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately, most CAD software is quite complicated and &quot;How do I model a gear&quot; is not a question that can be answered concisely. @fred_dot_u offers a number of suggestions for packages that might work, and even offer modules specific to generating gears. However, if you are not interested in learning CAD for its own sake and really get into 3D printing, learning it just for the sake of replacing a gear in a DVD player is a very inefficient use of your time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastActivityDate="2017-02-18T23:15:00.463" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3625" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3617" CreationDate="2017-02-19T09:18:13.633" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you want to change settings on some area of your part check out &lt;a href=&quot;http://slic3r.org/blog/modifier-meshes&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;modifier meshes in Slic3r&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It looks like to0 much heat is delivered when solid infill starts and some melting occurs. See &lt;a href=&quot;https://all3dp.com/common-3d-printing-problems-3d-printer-troubleshooting-guide/#Extrusion-Temperature&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;3D Printing Problems #22: Extrusion Temperature Too High&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can try:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lower extrusion temperature&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lower filament flow&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Improve part cooling&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lower print speed&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6107" LastEditorUserId="854" LastEditDate="2017-02-19T22:23:06.207" LastActivityDate="2017-02-19T22:23:06.207" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3626" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3619" CreationDate="2017-02-20T07:14:32.783" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The minimum scale of your model&#xA;The modeling of your 3D file doesn’t necessarily require that you work with a given unit or scale. It’s particularly true with software like Blender in which you’re able to give proportion but no unit. This job will be done after the modeling phase when you send your model to a 3D printer. That’s why you need to pay extra attention to both the scale and the size of your model at that point. Creating a 3D print in millimeters instead of centimeters might very well result in a bad 3D print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A powerful example of that can be found in architectural models. This is, in fact, one of the main issues we encountered while working with La Cité de L’Architecture on La Merveille’s reproduction. With architectural models, it can, for instance, be entirely possible to 3D print a scale 1/10 of something and just impossible to do the same at 1/250.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After a certain level of miniaturization, the details (present in the digital 3D file) are starting to vanish in the physical world because the 3D printer itself is no able to create them (or will create very fragile one). Quite often for architectural models, human intervention is necessary to decide which details will be kept and which won’t so that the 3D file doesn’t contain information that won’t be printable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5963" LastEditorUserId="98" LastEditDate="2017-02-27T15:28:23.400" LastActivityDate="2017-02-27T15:28:23.400" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3627" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-02-20T07:21:00.953" Score="5" ViewCount="827" Body="&lt;p&gt;This question is more of a mechanical rather than 3d printing, but I am assuming 3d Printing communty have already come accross this issue, therefore this is a good place to ask. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am building a simple RWD vehicle using 3d printer parts. See the picture below. &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FQIfX.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FQIfX.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;RWD vehicle with steering&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you can see from the picture, I am using 3d printed linkages for steering mechanism and I used regular bolt and lock nuts to secure them together (thats what I had laying around the house at the moment). The problem here is that, holes in the linkages are not exactly the size of the bolt, and because the bolts are threaded, it generates a lot of friction. Other than that, the bolt seems to sit loose inside the hole and creates an unstable pivot. &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2NH0W.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2NH0W.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I tighten the nut more, it just presses them together making it hard for the servo to operate. I am looking for a solution that will use simple bolts, nuts and washers which can be bought easily off the shelf (or even with the bolts and screws everyone has around there house). What can be done to make this joint stable in xy plane, rotating freely around the bolt, or whatever the connection could be. By the way, even though I used nylon lock nuts, it seems to loosen after couple of repetitive rotations. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for your help in advance and I hope ya'll have a great day. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6120" LastActivityDate="2017-02-20T18:10:18.370" Title="Building a pivot linkage for servo steering with 3d printed parts." Tags="|3d-models|pla|3d-design|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3629" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3621" CreationDate="2017-02-20T12:40:54.373" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The only 'layman's' option is to find an existing design which solves your problem. If you are lucky, and the product you have has a common failure mode, someone else might have a) solved the same problem already, and b) posted their design online.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sites such as &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thingiverse.com/search?q=dvd+gear&amp;amp;sa=&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;thingiverse&lt;/a&gt; have plenty of designs, but finding the right thing might be hard. If you find something, you can then look for someone to print it for you. Its not clear if you tried this already, but maybe the answer helps someone else. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4927" LastActivityDate="2017-02-20T12:40:54.373" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3630" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3627" CreationDate="2017-02-20T18:10:18.370" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;A correct length shoulder screw would work great in this application.  They have a shoulder that is held to a precise diameter and a length.  You can thread a nut on and tighten it against the shoulder to prevent clamping your pieces.  They may be hard to find locally in stores but are readily available at places like MSC, McMaster-Carr, and Bolt Depot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GAWW1.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GAWW1.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="233" LastActivityDate="2017-02-20T18:10:18.370" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3631" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3632" CreationDate="2017-02-20T23:19:10.480" Score="3" ViewCount="29094" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been trying to print an object that is 4 inches tall. About at 3 inches it falls off the bed. I am using tape on the heated bed and right before the print I am wiping the bed with rubbing alcohol. After the first time I tried hot gluing it to the bed when it was mid way through so that it wouldn't fall off but that didn't work. I am printing at 185°C and the bed is 55°C. I am using PLA to print. Should I increase the temperature of the bed or is there something else that is wrong?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6135" LastEditorUserId="854" LastEditDate="2017-02-21T00:34:48.590" LastActivityDate="2020-04-13T16:46:13.290" Title="Prints falling off the bed towards the end of the print" Tags="|pla|prusa-i3|heated-bed|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3632" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3631" CreationDate="2017-02-21T00:32:53.703" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Even though knowing the model of printer is slightly helpful, it's not critical to making your print work. Your PLA manufacturer should have recommendations for both the bed temperature and the nozzle temperature. Is your print bed glass or metal?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As an example, my bed is glass and I set the temperature to 70°C for PLA, but the real temperature at the bed is slightly lower than that. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm using 3M brand blue painters tape. What type of tape are you using? It will make a difference. I originally used cleaner on the tape, but found it was not needed. Blue tape means parts stick so well that you have to get them free before the bed cools too much, or you'll have to remove the tape to get the part free.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My PLA nozzle temperature settings range from 190°C to 230°C, depending on the filament. I use the manufacturer's figures and vary them five to ten degrees depending on the results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Too hot at the nozzle will burn the filament possibly causing a clog, while too cold will cause extruder feeding problems. You did not reference having feeding problems, which implies your nozzle settings are acceptable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Consider to change your tape and to increase the bed temperature. At a 55°C starting point, you could jump five degrees at a time until you get a good bond.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also be certain that your bed is level and properly calibrated. The first layer should apply in a slightly &quot;squashed&quot; manner. Too close and the nozzle tears up the tape, but too far and the filament will sit on top and not properly adhere.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastActivityDate="2017-02-21T00:32:53.703" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3633" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3638" CreationDate="2017-02-21T08:21:29.327" Score="6" ViewCount="8194" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm relatively new to 3d printing, and wanted to get a few things understood.&#xA;Firstly, I am unclear on how Hexagonal infill is stronger than, say, diamond pattern. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can anyone explain how the different shape causes the structure to be stronger? I saw a few places that hex is stronger; usually, more vertices means 'weaker' shape (i.e. a triangle is stronger than a square), so how does that work with hex vs diamond?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, in small objects, where the printer makes only a single dot as the infill (a dot instead of a line in larger objects), does the infill strengthen the object at all?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: I am trying to understand the effect of the infill pattern on the &lt;em&gt;strength&lt;/em&gt; of the print, regardless of print time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6090" LastEditorUserId="6090" LastEditDate="2017-02-21T19:06:52.480" LastActivityDate="2017-02-21T20:42:37.443" Title="Infill pattern comparison" Tags="|pla|makerbot|infill|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3634" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3619" CreationDate="2017-02-21T11:51:00.363" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Make your model solid, then during slicing:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;scale your object&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;set infill to 0%&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;set desired number of perimeters (that will be the wall thickness)&#xA;That way with just one model you may have any wall thickness independently of scale.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6107" LastActivityDate="2017-02-21T11:51:00.363" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3635" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3121" CreationDate="2017-02-21T13:13:12.713" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Try Cura 2.4.0-beta2: there is option named &quot;Fill Gaps Between Walls&quot; under &quot;Shell&quot; settings, set it to &quot;everywhere&quot;. In  stable Cura 2.3.1 this option is missing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6107" LastActivityDate="2017-02-21T13:13:12.713" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3636" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3633" CreationDate="2017-02-21T18:00:03.490" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Correction: I believe I found what you are looking for:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://engineerdog.com/2015/09/02/mechanical-testing-3d-printed-parts-results-and-recommendations/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Report from EngineerDog.com&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The author concludes that rectilinear infill with a zero degree offset is the strongest. However, I have not seen consensus for or against a certain pattern being strongest. I recommend more investigation .&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My original answer:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I don't know that one pattern is significantly stronger than another,&#xA;  provided they each bond well with other infill deposits as well as the&#xA;  perimeters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;There are studies around. In 3D printing, strength is rarely the only&#xA;  consideration; one must optimize for strength &lt;em&gt;where needed&lt;/em&gt; versus&#xA;  time to print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;See&#xA;  &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.com/tips-tricks/how-to-choose-an-infill-for-your-3d-prints/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;  as an example of a report which supports the hexagonal or honeycomb&#xA;  pattern as the optimal balance between strength and print time. &lt;a href=&quot;http://my3dmatter.com/influence-infill-layer-height-pattern/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;This&#xA;  one&lt;/a&gt; is&#xA;  more detailed, but only compares linear infill patterns of varying&#xA;  layer thickness and density. There are many such articles, some more&#xA;  scientifically conducted than others, available with a simple search.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4922" LastEditorUserId="4922" LastEditDate="2017-02-21T20:01:36.833" LastActivityDate="2017-02-21T20:01:36.833" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3637" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6510" CreationDate="2017-02-21T18:10:28.567" Score="10" ViewCount="485" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently purchased an FT-5 from Folgertech and finished assembly about a week ago. I have yet to accomplish a successful print. It seems like either the file is not being sliced correctly, or that it is possibly reading the G-code incorrectly. It will lay down the first perimeter layer of the part and then shift down the build plate a few mm in the y-direction, extrude another perimeter layer and then repeat. I have tried printing from an SD and through USB using Cura as the slicing software, with the same results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I have doubled checked the tightness on all of the belts and pulleys&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The Y-Driver was bad, initially so I swapped it with the spare on the board and it solved the issue.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I have gone through the entire code on the Marlin V3 Firmware, and everything seems to look as it should.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;MKS Gen V 1.4 w/ Arduino Mega 2560&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I have tried using Arduino 1.6.5/1.6.6/1.6.7&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I calibrated the XYZ steps/mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All of the mechanical movements and offsets seem to be correct. The printer connects to Pronterface without issue. It also homes fine from the machine and USB and moves where it should during these processes. Again, it seems to be that the issue is when it tries to interpret the G-code. I have tried multiple G-code files from different sources as well, still with the same luck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If anyone has experience with similar issues or can offer any help, it would be greatly appreciated. I have no clue what could be going on!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In red filament is my attempt to print the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:24238&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;5 mm calibration cube&lt;/a&gt; this morning, an example of how this calibration cube should look like is seen in the picture with the white calibration cubes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5JvVlm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;5 mm Calibration Cube&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5JvVlm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;5 mm Calibration Cube&quot; title=&quot;5 mm Calibration Cube&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;  &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aZVk8m.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aZVk8m.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;5 mm Calibration Cube example&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6144" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-07-31T06:22:11.290" LastActivityDate="2018-07-31T06:22:11.290" Title="Folgertech FT-5 : Does not seem to be reading G-Code correctly" Tags="|g-code|printer-building|electronics|calibration|folgertechft-5|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="3638" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3633" CreationDate="2017-02-21T20:42:37.443" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hex grids are used for different reasons than triangular grids (such as you often see on bridges and roof systems). Triangles are especially good at being &lt;em&gt;rigid&lt;/em&gt;, while hex grids are very material-efficient for a given strength. The second reason ($) is typically more important for 3D printing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Triangles do have fewer vertices than squares, but it's not always true that &quot;fewer vertices&quot; means stronger. Vertices are one kind of weak point. But in a triangle, vertex &quot;angle-holding&quot; failures simply don't matter. You can fasten 3 bars together with hinges or other joints that have little resistance to changing angle, and the triangle is still rigid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In contrast, rectangular grids can (and do -- &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5t9MpNTSbYg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5t9MpNTSbYg&lt;/a&gt;) completely collapse if their vertices aren't rigid enough. That combines badly with the fact that vertices concentrate forces, so have to be much stronger than sides in comparable settings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A triangle cannot change without changing multiple things -- at least 2 angles and a side, or all three sides. Intuitively, the sides and vertices of a triangle work together for strength. This advantage of triangles doesn't transfer to hexagons, but hexagons have two other advantages: First, if you want to fill a space with a repeating shape, hexagons use less material than other shapes. And second, hexagons keep all the individual &quot;walls&quot; shorter compared to others shapes, which makes them less prone to bend.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The material efficiency was proven by Thomas Hales in 1998, according to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.slate.com/articles/health_and_science/science/2015/07/hexagons_are_the_most_scientifically_efficient_packing_shape_as_bee_honeycomb.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.slate.com/articles/health_and_science/science/2015/07/hexagons_are_the_most_scientifically_efficient_packing_shape_as_bee_honeycomb.html&lt;/a&gt;. His paper &quot;The Honeycomb Structure&quot; is available at &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.communitycommons.org/wp-content/uploads/bp-attachments/14268/honey.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.communitycommons.org/wp-content/uploads/bp-attachments/14268/honey.pdf&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastActivityDate="2017-02-21T20:42:37.443" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3639" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3631" CreationDate="2017-02-21T20:46:46.590" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You might also try tweaking your settings to add a &quot;raft&quot;, which is a wider area surrounding the first layer of your print. The added area is more area to &quot;stick&quot; to the build plate (or tape, or whatever). I've found that often helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've tried using crazy glue in a pinch, to glue down a corner that's coming loose, but as you reported for hot melt glue, it's a long shot. I did get it to work once or twice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastActivityDate="2017-02-21T20:46:46.590" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3640" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3605" CreationDate="2017-02-21T20:49:21.013" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've printed a few dice, and thrown them ~100 times each to check -- they were very far off from fair. One reason, I think, is that the inner fill (and thus a lot of weight) is oriented a certain way. It might help to do solid-fill or no fill, but I haven't compared yet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastActivityDate="2017-02-21T20:49:21.013" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3641" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-02-22T11:23:49.293" Score="3" ViewCount="3547" Body="&lt;p&gt;Marlin offers a bunch of different choices for auto-levelling and assisted manual levelling for bent build plates (mesh levelling), but for the moment I want to level things completely manually.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That is, I want to move Z to 0, disable steppers, and then move around the print head and adjust the distance between bed and nozzle at various points with a piece of paper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With the old Repetier based firmware on my printer, selecting &quot;home all axes&quot; did not only home XYZ to endstops, but it also moved the head to position (0, 0, 0) afterwards. Then I could simply disable steppers via the menu and go on with my levelling. Note that in my case, the coordinates of the endstop positions are negative for all axes, so moving to the endstops alone isn't cutting it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With Marlin, selecting the &quot;auto home&quot; option merely moves to the endstops and then to some positive Z position (+10). This means I have to use the menu to manually move Z back to 0, which is quite inconvenient, unless I have a PC nearby that allows me to enter G-code.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, that leaves two related questions for me:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there some simple way to move to (0, 0, 0) with the menu?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I implement an assisted manual levelling (i.e. some procedure that simply moves the head between a number of different X/Y positions) easily? Does something like that already exist? If not, I wonder why.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6155" LastEditorUserId="4927" LastEditDate="2018-02-26T21:16:08.143" LastActivityDate="2018-02-26T21:16:08.143" Title="Assisted manual levelling with Marlin" Tags="|marlin|calibration|z-axis|bed-leveling|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3643" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3641" CreationDate="2017-02-23T04:58:59.087" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Write a few pieces of gcode to do this. Place it on an SD-card (I assume you have a reader) and select the file you want to execute.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Home all:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;G28&#xA;G1 Z0&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do you really want to home it directly? I would say you want to take it down slowly and adjusting end-stops incrementally.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;G28&#xA;G1 Z10&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;G28&#xA;G1 Z3&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;G28&#xA;G1 Z1&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;etc etc&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also move it around in the X and Y plane:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;G28&#xA;G1 Z5 X50 Y30&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5395" LastActivityDate="2017-02-23T04:58:59.087" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3648" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2621" CreationDate="2017-02-24T23:00:54.827" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just bought an all metal heat break, and I either have to upgrade my existing fan (technically possible, but currently infeasible), or reinstall a PTFE-lined heatbreak.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Printing with a Tevo Tarantula.  From what I've heard, basically, for PLA and other low-temp plastics, don't use all metal heat breaks. You need a PTFE breaker in there. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6182" LastActivityDate="2017-02-24T23:00:54.827" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3654" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3456" CreationDate="2017-02-26T06:12:50.200" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I´ve seen some cards using A4988, and also I have designed my own cards and the most and useful pin arrangement is V Mot, GND, 2B 2A 1A 1B VDD GND, so stepper motor is conected close to 2B 2A 1A 1B. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Never place this pinout oposite side to stepper connectors. Stepper connector are marked as X, Y, Z, E0, E1.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The assembly picture from Ali express is correct.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4454" LastActivityDate="2017-02-26T06:12:50.200" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3657" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3605" CreationDate="2017-02-26T22:01:26.527" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Not likely.&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Creating true 'fair' dice is fairly difficult to do even with high tolerance processes. 3D printing (hobbyist level) is much lower tolerance and will definitely be weighted incorrectly especially if the infill is anything less than full. Professional grade 3D Printers will be better and more accurate but will still likely be weighted slightly to one side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regardless of process though it would be possible to create a fair dice using 3D printing as the primary means of manufacturing and then weighing, balancing and doing some post processing to even them out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5518" LastActivityDate="2017-02-26T22:01:26.527" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3658" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3631" CreationDate="2017-02-27T15:40:02.513" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have a dual-extruder printer, your second nozzle could be hitting the part. As the print grows taller, each hit with the nozzle has more chance to knock the part off the build plate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This can happen from some of the following reasons:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Nozzles aren't level to each other&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Build plate is not  level&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Material oozed and solidify on second nozzle. (Similar to nozzles aren't level)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="98" LastActivityDate="2017-02-27T15:40:02.513" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3659" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3774" CreationDate="2017-02-27T15:52:54.077" Score="3" ViewCount="2260" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Wanhao Duplicator i3.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have done many excellent prints with this printer, and have first hand experience that it can do a pretty much flawless print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But... Recently, I am experiencing weird results. My &quot;flow&quot; seems uneven. When laying down the first layer of the raft, I can see it looks like it &quot;beads&quot; in some places. Thin lines with little &quot;beads&quot; here and there (which seem to be in a constant pattern) i.e. -------()-----()-----()------()------ etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I initially thought, wet filament... But drying the filament had no noticeable effect. Further more, all my prints seem to be horribly laminated at a certain &quot;height&quot; of the print. This is really strange as it will print perfectly and only at a certain height, mess up about 5mm of layers (height wise), and then print great again. This seems to be a constant now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I dont understand how/why this could happen, as the whole z-axis is on a linear spiral shaft. Unless there is a gcode issue somewhere that I am not aware off. I am using CURA as my slicer and I feel that even if there was an isnturuction hidden somewhere at a certain height, it would possibly effect a single layer, and not 5mm worth of layers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have tried:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Different filament&#xA;Pushing flow % to 105 and 110% respectively&#xA;Cleaned extruder gears and print head&#xA;Oiled z-axis shafts&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What baffles me, is the weird delamination (or rather lack of lamination) at a certain height. I have not measured this height exactly, but from guestimating, it looks like roughly the same height on every print where the issue is visible (about 3/4 up in the attached image). My support structures are also VERY messy, whilst they were very precise and perfect previously.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/epy7e.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/epy7e.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6209" LastActivityDate="2022-09-16T22:42:51.250" Title="Print is not properly laminated at certain height" Tags="|filament|prusa-i3|print-quality|delamination|wanhao|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3660" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3613" CreationDate="2017-02-27T18:14:05.520" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Thanks for your reply all. I think I have a solution for my need. Here are some figures!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BfZmN.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BfZmN.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BfyZt.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BfyZt.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hBYET.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hBYET.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More picture of the clip!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/S7WMO.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/S7WMO.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VGDQU.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VGDQU.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/P74zp.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/P74zp.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6063" LastEditorUserId="6063" LastEditDate="2017-03-02T12:23:40.957" LastActivityDate="2017-03-02T12:23:40.957" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3661" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3664" CreationDate="2017-02-27T23:39:34.063" Score="16" ViewCount="23174" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am wondering - of course if the 3D printer's bed big enough - printing multiple copies of the same print could save me significant amount of time in a small production line, excluding minor wastage such as setup time, post-processing time, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aQ1Zt.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aQ1Zt.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;e.g. if my foo print takes 10 hours, printing 2x copies at the same time would take 2x times more, increasing linearly or it would be significantly less?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6218" LastActivityDate="2020-06-27T15:11:06.597" Title="Would 3D printing multiple copies at once saves time?" Tags="|diy-3d-printer|" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3662" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3665" CreationDate="2017-02-27T23:49:41.503" Score="3" ViewCount="9673" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm familiar with 3D printing, and the G-code concept. I'm also comfortable with programming. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can anyone give me the G-code (or probably the M-code, actually) to read the bed temperature? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there an equivalent of &lt;code&gt;M105&lt;/code&gt; (Get Extruder Temperature)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6217" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2017-04-10T08:58:33.810" LastActivityDate="2018-09-11T14:19:44.763" Title="G-code (M-code?) for Get Bed Temperature" Tags="|heated-bed|g-code|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3663" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3661" CreationDate="2017-02-28T00:21:42.553" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The proportion of production improvement is dependent on the size of the items being printed, generally speaking. Unfortunately, it's variable enough to make a precise answer difficult.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Consider a single unit print. I'll use my printer as an example. Other printers may have similar sequences. The print is begun and the bed has to heat up to temperature. Once the set level is reached, the print head(s) also have to reach temperature. Ignoring for the moment the print duration, one then considers that the printer bed has to cool to release the print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have ten items to print, you gain nine times the above elapsed time. That can be a substantial portion of production time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the flip side, there isn't going to be much benefit in time from ten prints opposed to one. You may lose some post-processing time if you have stringing between the items. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Directly related to quantity printing is yet another complication. If you have a single print fail, you've lost that time. As an example, one print may take 18 minutes. Twelve minutes into the print, you have a nozzle clog and have to abort the job. That's an unfortunate loss.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With ten prints on the bed, you are two hours into the print and have a failure. Much worse loss of time and productivity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously, one would prefer to have a properly fully working printer and be able to operate with the confidence that these failures won't appear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hobby grade printers can't provide that level of confidence, but industrial/commercial grade printers should, further improving the productivity time for printing multiple items on a bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have hot-swappable print beds, maybe combined with the ability to pre-heat the incoming bed, you gain time-wise. I don't know enough of the commercial grade printers to suggest that such a feature exists. My printer bed is attached with magnets and could be hot-swapped if I exercised care. The bed would begin to cool quickly, making a pre-heated plate all the more valuable. I'll just print multiple items and hope for the best, instead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastActivityDate="2017-02-28T00:21:42.553" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3664" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3661" CreationDate="2017-02-28T00:54:54.297" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;Actually no. It will take slightly more for each addition. You also then have the point of failure, where one gets knocked off and ruins all the prints.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The fastest way to print multiple objects is one at a time. In fact slic3r lets you do just that with their &lt;a href=&quot;http://manual.slic3r.org/advanced/sequential-printing&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;sequential printing feature&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason is, the time it takes to lift 0.5mm, travel the few MM over to the next object, lower the 0.5mm back down.. Repeat for inner shells, outer shells, infill.. all add time. Doesn't seem like much till you do it 14,000 times.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the case of your example, it would be negligible. In more complicated or well spaced prints its another story.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For extra extra fast, look into loss PLA casting...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2146" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:29:41.667" LastActivityDate="2017-02-28T00:54:54.297" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3665" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3662" CreationDate="2017-02-28T04:20:06.917" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;code&gt;M105&lt;/code&gt; should give you the bed temperature.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For future reference you can find a general list of G/M codes here - &lt;a href=&quot;http://reprap.org/wiki/G-code&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;RepRap Wiki - G-code&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most firmware files include a list, Marlin has it in &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/blob/1.1.x/Marlin/Marlin_main.cpp&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Marlin_main&lt;/a&gt;.  I have no idea how often the list is updated but they don't change often.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="233" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-09-11T14:19:44.763" LastActivityDate="2018-09-11T14:19:44.763" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="3666" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3661" CreationDate="2017-02-28T05:37:51.187" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, and no. It depends.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For FDM printing, the printing time &lt;em&gt;mostly&lt;/em&gt; scales linearly with the number of objects. However, some printers have a &quot;minimum layer time&quot; whereby smaller layers are printed more slowly, to ensure each layer takes at least this minimum time. This gives the print enough time to cool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since the model shown in your example is quite small, it's quite likely that it will hit the minimum layer time. This means that printing one copy will take exactly as long as printing two copies, which will take exactly as long as printing three copies, until you hit the minimum layer time. At this point, adding more models will just add some constant number of minutes to your print time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the model is large enough for minimum layer time not to be a factor, then printing the objects one at a time is generally faster because you save on travel moves between the layers of the two objects (and also results in better quality print, since the inter-object travel moves may leave behind stringing).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This only holds for FDM printing. For DLP printing, the printing time for a (set of) models only depends on their total height and thus the number of layers required, since each layer requires the same amount of time regardless of the amount of material printed. Thus, the time for 1, 2, 3,...n models is exactly the same.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are many other types of printing process where the number of layers is much more important than the amount of material used, such as binder jetting, SLA and SLS,... Here there usually is some time cost involved for material printed, but the main factor in the print time is the number of layers (and for SLS, the amount of time it takes for the build volume to cool down after each print, which is quite significant.).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastActivityDate="2017-02-28T05:37:51.187" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3667" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3631" CreationDate="2017-02-28T06:40:10.733" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well, I had the same problem like you. I tried some &lt;strong&gt;raft&lt;/strong&gt; but the result was ugly and a little hard to remove it from final part.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I notice that autolevel works fine but, if your printing on top lines are over warping  the nozzle will collide until the part fall off the printer. So is needed to minimize this warping controling speed and temperature, maybe the PLA is getting glued to nozzle and creating the warping.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have set the printer from 185 and 190 to 210 for first layer to increase the adition to tape, the heat bed to 32 degrees to allow the first layer get cold faster to avoid PLA warping. &lt;em&gt;This may vary depending on city climate&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remember the heat bed is to control room temperature close the part, not to mold or to print the part. At least, that you are printing a turkey to be finished and cooked.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4454" LastActivityDate="2017-02-28T06:40:10.733" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3668" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-02-28T10:04:40.103" Score="6" ViewCount="2095" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm starting to get familiar with 3D printers. I wish to know if printing details the size of 10&lt;sup&gt;-7&lt;/sup&gt;&amp;nbsp;m (3.9*10&lt;sup&gt;-6&lt;/sup&gt;&amp;nbsp;in) is possible these days with metals or any other material.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If anyone has information or articles as leads, I would really appreciate it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6223" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2018-09-16T12:48:33.990" LastActivityDate="2018-09-16T12:48:33.990" Title="Can 3D printers print details in the 1/10 of the micrometer for metals?" Tags="|print-quality|print-material|material|metal-printing|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3670" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3673" CreationDate="2017-02-28T13:20:35.137" Score="5" ViewCount="6251" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am doing a quad-copter now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am not sure what color is the best to use for outdoor durability, especially in sunlight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They say PETg is the most durable material amongst cheap ones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But what color to choose: white or transparent? Or it does not matter?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6226" LastEditorUserId="4927" LastEditDate="2017-03-01T22:33:48.073" LastActivityDate="2017-03-05T15:46:59.577" Title="What is the best color of PETg to use for outdoor durability?" Tags="|fdm|print-material|color|pet|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3671" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3668" CreationDate="2017-02-28T17:51:30.137" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Today, only SLA/DLP will give features of that size (if even these technologies do), and I am unaware of anyone using these technologies to print with metals today.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4922" LastActivityDate="2017-02-28T17:51:30.137" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3673" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3670" CreationDate="2017-03-02T10:24:33.937" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Unless you plan to use your copter outside Earth atmosphere or expected lifetime is more than tenths of years, UV degradation should not be a problem for PETG. Some of the net sources indicate the &lt;strong&gt;possibility&lt;/strong&gt; of degradation after significant time of &lt;strong&gt;constant&lt;/strong&gt; exposure to outdoor conditions (mostly color change), which sounds mostly like absence of practical experience.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yet if there are any concerns about losing mechanical properties from the sunlight, any opaque lacquer car paint can help to absorb unwanted radiation and add some nicer view to the model. Acrylic paint will also work (tried this once myself) but it may not be suitable for outdoor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3839" LastEditorUserId="3839" LastEditDate="2017-03-02T11:38:16.270" LastActivityDate="2017-03-02T11:38:16.270" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3674" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3554" CreationDate="2017-03-02T11:04:37.167" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Looks like something is catching on the z axis. A bent peice would likely cause much smaller deformations unless it was very obviously bent. Something could be loose, allowing the vertical play, perhaps the motor mounts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More likely I think is a level-difference between the z-axis worm gears, possibly caused by an obstruction, lack of lubrication, or possibly even the wrong lubrication. That's where I would look. Further, since it's a very consistent pattern, my guess would be your issue can be isolated to the tops and bottoms of the z axis worm gears. Even if it's not the issues I think, the issue most likely located at the top or bottom.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6252" LastEditorUserId="6252" LastEditDate="2017-03-02T18:02:10.843" LastActivityDate="2017-03-02T18:02:10.843" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3676" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3554" CreationDate="2017-03-03T05:32:33.513" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have the same problem with a home made mini extruder. This happens only if the bearing stops rotating together with the extruder gear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I notice that:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The gear collects burrs of PLA while feeding, so reducing the traction to feed the PLA&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The bearing stops rotating when the pressure is too high or too low.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The heat of chamber is too high and starts to smooth the PLA before arrives to the nozzle and needs to regulate the speed of the fan. This creates less force on feeding.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The PLA has a mixture of ABS&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;PLA has part hardened due overcooking, extremely dry, etc.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The PLA have irregular diameters, for example is nominally 1.75mm but some sections vary 1.8mm or 1.9mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The nozzle starts to get cold due direct fan air flow. (maybe your main problem)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;:) I've been a Quality Engineer for 20 years for plastic and metal processes, so I've had to analyze why I've had lots of problems, especially in cold weather.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was thinking on buying a new extruder like you have, but if you have the same problem I do, the Extruder is not the problem. You need to check the points I described above.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the extruder I have, &lt;a href=&quot;http://aprendiendo.laconeccion.com/mini-extrusor-3dp&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://aprendiendo.laconeccion.com/mini-extrusor-3dp&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4454" LastEditorUserId="5518" LastEditDate="2017-03-30T13:05:24.837" LastActivityDate="2017-03-30T13:05:24.837" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3679" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3668" CreationDate="2017-03-05T14:42:40.770" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are no 3D printers (that I'm aware of) that can do 0.0001 millimeters, hobbyist or industrial, plastic or metal. For that matter I think you'll be hard pressed to find a CNC mill with that type of tolerances. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sorry!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5518" LastActivityDate="2017-03-05T14:42:40.770" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3680" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3661" CreationDate="2017-03-05T14:57:02.923" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Printing multiple parts &lt;em&gt;can&lt;/em&gt; save you time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The issues pointed out by the other posters are all bang on, but one factor that has been neglected is the time it takes you to clear the build plate and restart the print. I found for smaller parts (under 1 inch cube) printing several parts at a time was more convenient, and minimally faster. The time saved came more from the fact that I could leave the printer for several hours and work on other tasks without having to babysit the printer waiting for it to finish each part. I printed about 100-200 parts in this manner. I did end up losing one 'batch' when one part came loose and started causing problems, but I found that was a small price to pay for being able to get a lot of other things done. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It'll come down to the criticality of your deadline on the parts. If you're making parts for giggles and you don't need them done immediately, then i'd say one at a time. Less risk of failure, less wasted material and the time isn't super critical. If you're making parts for a prototype product that needs to be field tested in a few weeks, then i'd go with small batches of multiple parts. It'll give you more time to work on other things, less releveling, and you can check in once in a while to confirm it's okay usually without having to do anything assuming all is going well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5518" LastActivityDate="2017-03-05T14:57:02.923" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3681" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3394" CreationDate="2017-03-05T15:27:18.390" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just plugged the ends of tube and soaked it in real warm water for 5 minutes then stretched it out on a table. That helped then the hard part I spooling it up against the arch and soaked it again. This seem to work the best. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5748" LastActivityDate="2017-03-05T15:27:18.390" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3682" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3670" CreationDate="2017-03-05T15:46:59.577" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;PETG might not be the best for long term UV exposure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to Midland Plastics, PETG doesn't hold up well in outdoor applications, and is susceptible to UV degradation. Unless you have an outdoor or UV rated PETG product which will have additional chemicals added to it, it may breakdown more quickly than you would expect. (the link I used was : &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.midlandplastics.com/srtd_petg.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.midlandplastics.com/srtd_petg.htm&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Polycarbonate on the other hand does hold up better in outdoor applications and is better suited for long term exposure to UV light. Most quads and RC products you see that have a nice slick looking shell on them, are made from Polycarbonate. That stuff is usually vacuum formed sheets. It does still breakdown but it is a much stronger material. The downside is that PC requires a higher nozzle temperature, than PETG. (The reprap wiki has more info: &lt;a href=&quot;http://reprap.org/wiki/Polycarbonate&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://reprap.org/wiki/Polycarbonate&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That being said PETG is not going to dissolve in sunlight. It will likely last upto a year if not longer depending on usage. If this is your first quad you're making, then odds are you'll have a crash due to hardware failure before excessive UV degradation (at least thats been my experience with prototype aircraft).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5518" LastActivityDate="2017-03-05T15:46:59.577" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3683" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3687" CreationDate="2017-03-05T20:45:52.083" Score="12" ViewCount="9860" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I am printing objects that have a lot of surface area on the first layer parts of that layer will rise up causing there to be gaps in the first layer. Here are two pictures. The first one was printing with a raft and the second one was without a raft.&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yLnZA.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yLnZA.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Raft&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/x6vXw.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/x6vXw.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;No Raft&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt; I am printing on 3M Painters tape, extruder temperature at 200, bed temperature at 60. I am using Hatchbox PLA Filiment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6135" LastActivityDate="2017-10-04T01:37:46.753" Title="Lines of PLA not sticking to the bed" Tags="|pla|prusa-i3|print-quality|adhesion|rafts|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3686" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3683" CreationDate="2017-03-06T11:30:11.220" Score="1" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Too far from the surface for the first layer. Filament doesn't look flat enough&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Possible slight under-extrusion (should be verified after fixing first issue)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3839" LastActivityDate="2017-03-06T11:30:11.220" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3687" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3683" CreationDate="2017-03-07T06:03:18.807" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You got a few things happening. First that temp seems low. I am printing PLA at 215.. but there are a lot of factors. Start with a simple calibration thin wall test. Which is just a wall, no body. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From there your bed could be closer. Maybe. I don't think that's really the issue. Slower speed and heat will make more of a difference. That said. I take a piece of paper and calibrate it so there just a little, but not too much, friction. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Make sure you are printing at 30% speed for first layer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Last use a glue stick.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2146" LastActivityDate="2017-03-07T06:03:18.807" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3688" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3699" CreationDate="2017-03-07T08:15:34.147" Score="3" ViewCount="271" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have access to a MakerBot Replicator 2X which I use to try to print ABS + dissoluble (both are MakerBot's original filaments). It is really a pain and the filaments most often gets clogged (80% of the prints have to be thrown away). I a supposed to use the printer in a professional context, but at the moment it is really problematic and I feel pressure going up...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have initially tried the default parameters provided by the machine for known filaments (ABS: 230°C / dissoluble: 250°C / plate: 110°C + 0.1mm layers). As the nozzle got clogged I have made many other attempts with varying parameters and up to (250°C / 270°C / 135°C), which slightly improves things but is far from being really usable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any idea of where this comes from?&#xA; - ABS being notoriously difficult to print?&#xA; - The Replicator 2x being old tech?&#xA; - A parameters problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any advice on what I should do to improve the situation?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6265" LastActivityDate="2017-03-09T01:24:59.257" Title="MakerBot replicator 2x glitches" Tags="|filament|makerbot|replicator-dual|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3689" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2017-03-07T12:00:34.367" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-03-07T12:00:34.367" LastActivityDate="2017-03-07T12:00:34.367" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3690" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2017-03-07T12:00:34.367" Score="0" Body="For questions about 3D-printing processes which eventually result in metal parts (or parts which appear to be metal)" OwnerUserId="4927" LastEditorUserId="4927" LastEditDate="2017-03-10T21:18:53.277" LastActivityDate="2017-03-10T21:18:53.277" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3691" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3493" CreationDate="2017-03-07T18:06:34.413" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Follow up:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I used the 6mil magnet, cut a sheet of thin steel, (about .5mm) to fit, added a layer of Buildtak and now it's much easier to remove prints, build surface is very flat. I assume you could deform the metal beyond the magnet's ability to flatten it but it works quite well. The metal was cut with sheet metal snips, risky as they can bend the sheet. Probably better done with a saw though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5825" LastActivityDate="2017-03-07T18:06:34.413" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3692" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3493" CreationDate="2017-03-07T18:50:52.187" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Try using buildtak flex. &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.buildtak.com/product/flexplate/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.buildtak.com/product/flexplate/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;or cheaper alternatives:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.printinz.com/printinz-plate-3d-printer-bed-upgrade/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.printinz.com/printinz-plate-3d-printer-bed-upgrade/&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6330" LastActivityDate="2017-03-07T18:50:52.187" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3693" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3683" CreationDate="2017-03-07T18:55:20.710" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Do things in this order&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) Make sure your bed surface is appropriate. (PET tape, or elmers glue on glass. must be applied every 3 to 4 prints in used area)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2)Make sure extruder temperature is not too low or too high. Generally I'll start at the minimum recommended manufacturer's range for your specific filament + 5 degrees. Then bed temp around 55c to 60c.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3) Your bed calibration might be off. Bed calibration should be performed at standard operating temperatures. I.e. turn everything on as if you are about to print and wait to heat up and then make sure your nozzle is almost touching your bed surface (however not actually touching. Alternatively you can use a normal sheet of paper and test that way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6330" LastActivityDate="2017-03-07T18:55:20.710" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3694" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2930" CreationDate="2017-03-07T19:02:57.017" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Try using Autodesk Meshmixer. You can edit STL and OBJ files live and save changes. Additionally it has a feature where you can arrange parts on a printbed in the software and save the whole bed contents as a stl or gcode file. It can then be imported into a slicer software as any other model output.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The software is free to use.  &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.meshmixer.com/download.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.meshmixer.com/download.html&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6330" LastActivityDate="2017-03-07T19:02:57.017" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3695" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3641" CreationDate="2017-03-07T19:07:44.317" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The way I manually level my bed is by connecting a computer to the printer via USB. As far as I am aware, if you have a touchscreen this should be available on the printer options as well for marlin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But if you connect a computer, simply run something like pronterface or any other manual control gui and:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) home axes&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) disable motors&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3) move printhead in x/y directions as necessary by hand&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;4) adjust z height manually with the GUI software. This should not affect your x/y positions or turn on their motors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6330" LastActivityDate="2017-03-07T19:07:44.317" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3696" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3697" CreationDate="2017-03-08T04:06:17.447" Score="4" ViewCount="15161" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been playing around with creating scripts to generate some custom G-code for a Malyan M180 and I am having trouble understand what commands to use to switch nozzles. Sometimes I can get the nozzles to switch and it doesn't recenter but sometimes it does.&#xA;I have been using:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;G54&#xA;M108 T0; switch to left&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;G55&#xA;M108 T1; switch to right&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has anyone else looked into this and have any idea what commands or sequence of commands should be used to change nozzles?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1476" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-01-26T15:25:20.737" LastActivityDate="2021-01-26T15:25:53.923" Title="What G-code commands tell the printer to change nozzle on a dual extruder printer?" Tags="|g-code|dual-nozzle|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="3697" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3696" CreationDate="2017-03-08T12:25:55.697" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, M108 does not do that. You are looking for &lt;strong&gt;T#&lt;/strong&gt;, where # is the tool position you want:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;T1 ; switch to tool position 1 &#xA;&#xA;T3 ; switch to tool position 3 &#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This tells the processor to send all heating, cooling and flow commands to this tool until another tool change is specified, and invokes the X/Y(/Z) offset for the new tool position.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See &lt;a href=&quot;http://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#T:_Select_Tool&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#T:_Select_Tool&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4922" LastEditorUserId="4922" LastEditDate="2017-04-07T16:29:28.217" LastActivityDate="2017-04-07T16:29:28.217" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3698" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-03-08T13:14:43.443" Score="4" ViewCount="234" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an Ormerod 2 which is controlled by an Duet board with original up to date firmware. When I power it on and try to use the web interface (web control) it seems to not have started. When I connect my printer to my laptop and use Pronterface (printer interface) to send t0 to the printer it replies &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;code&gt;Starting network...&#xA;RepRapFirmware is up and running.&#xA;Starting DHCP&#xA;Network up, IP=censored&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;which leads me to the conclusion that the printer isn't starting its firmware and the web interface before that. &#xA;After sending t0 and waiting 10sec for these replies it works fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Every source says it should start automatically.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So my question is how do I fix that? or what even is the problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks in advance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: For everyone wondering: One time I let the printer sit powered on for ~1h before trying to connect and use Pronterface, same story as above.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6337" LastEditorUserId="233" LastEditDate="2017-03-09T11:56:16.060" LastActivityDate="2018-07-31T13:03:26.323" Title="Reprap Ormerod 2 Duet web control not automatically starting, how can I fix?" Tags="|reprap|firmware|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3699" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3688" CreationDate="2017-03-09T01:24:59.257" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't have a profile that has settings for the dissolvable filament anymore, but this is one I use for thin layers (second extruder at 232C my first extruder isn't working so just ignore that one).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may want to try printing small simple objects with each extruder independently first to confirm that you have good settings, then try both together after you know you have good settings. ABS is a pain but mostly for warping and sticking to the build plate. The dissolvable filament I believe is PLA if you're using Makerbot materials.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;{&#xA;       &quot;_attached_extruders&quot; : [ &quot;mk8&quot;, &quot;mk8&quot; ],&#xA;       &quot;_bot&quot; : &quot;replicator2x&quot;,&#xA;       &quot;_extruders&quot; : [ 0 ],&#xA;       &quot;_materials&quot; : [ &quot;abs&quot;, &quot;abs&quot; ],&#xA;       &quot;adjacentFillLeakyConnections&quot; : false,&#xA;       &quot;adjacentFillLeakyDistanceRatio&quot; : 0,&#xA;       &quot;anchorExtrusionAmount&quot; : 5.0,&#xA;       &quot;anchorExtrusionSpeed&quot; : 2.0,&#xA;       &quot;anchorWidth&quot; : 2.0,&#xA;       &quot;backlashEpsilon&quot; : 0.050,&#xA;       &quot;backlashFeedback&quot; : 0.90,&#xA;       &quot;backlashX&quot; : 0.0,&#xA;       &quot;backlashY&quot; : 0.090,&#xA;       &quot;bedZOffset&quot; : 0.0,&#xA;       &quot;bridgeAnchorMinimumLength&quot; : 0.80,&#xA;       &quot;bridgeAnchorWidth&quot; : 0.80,&#xA;       &quot;bridgeMaximumLength&quot; : 80.0,&#xA;       &quot;bridgeSpacingMultiplier&quot; : 1.0,&#xA;       &quot;coarseness&quot; : 9.999999747378752e-005,&#xA;       &quot;commentClose&quot; : &quot;&quot;,&#xA;       &quot;commentOpen&quot; : &quot;;&quot;,&#xA;       &quot;computeVolumeLike2_1_0&quot; : false,&#xA;       &quot;defaultExtruder&quot; : 0,&#xA;       &quot;defaultRaftMaterial&quot; : 0,&#xA;       &quot;defaultSupportMaterial&quot; : 0,&#xA;       &quot;description&quot; : &quot;External Definition&quot;,&#xA;       &quot;doAnchor&quot; : true,&#xA;       &quot;doBacklashCompensation&quot; : false,&#xA;       &quot;doBreakawaySupport&quot; : true,&#xA;       &quot;doBridging&quot; : true,&#xA;       &quot;doDynamicSpeed&quot; : false,&#xA;       &quot;doDynamicSpeedGradually&quot; : true,&#xA;       &quot;doDynamicSpeedInteriorShells&quot; : false,&#xA;       &quot;doDynamicSpeedOutermostShell&quot; : true,&#xA;       &quot;doExponentialDeceleration&quot; : false,&#xA;       &quot;doExternalSpurs&quot; : true,&#xA;       &quot;doFixedLayerStart&quot; : false,&#xA;       &quot;doFixedShellStart&quot; : true,&#xA;       &quot;doInfills&quot; : true,&#xA;       &quot;doInsets&quot; : true,&#xA;       &quot;doInternalSpurs&quot; : false,&#xA;       &quot;doMixedRaft&quot; : false,&#xA;       &quot;doMixedSupport&quot; : false,&#xA;       &quot;doOutlines&quot; : true,&#xA;       &quot;doPrintLayerMessages&quot; : false,&#xA;       &quot;doPrintProgress&quot; : true,&#xA;       &quot;doPurgeWall&quot; : false,&#xA;       &quot;doRaft&quot; : true,&#xA;       &quot;doSplitLongMoves&quot; : true,&#xA;       &quot;doSupport&quot; : true,&#xA;       &quot;doSupportUnderBridges&quot; : false,&#xA;       &quot;endGcode&quot; : &quot;&quot;,&#xA;       &quot;exponentialDecelerationMinSpeed&quot; : 0.0,&#xA;       &quot;extruderProfiles&quot; : [&#xA;          {&#xA;             &quot;bridgesExtrusionProfile&quot; : &quot;bridges&quot;,&#xA;             &quot;feedDiameter&quot; : 1.820000052452087,&#xA;             &quot;feedstockMultiplier&quot; : 0.9300000000000001,&#xA;             &quot;firstLayerExtrusionProfile&quot; : &quot;firstLayer&quot;,&#xA;             &quot;firstLayerRaftExtrusionProfile&quot; : &quot;firstLayerRaft&quot;,&#xA;             &quot;floorSurfaceFillsExtrusionProfile&quot; : &quot;floorSurfaceFills&quot;,&#xA;             &quot;infillsExtrusionProfile&quot; : &quot;infill&quot;,&#xA;             &quot;insetsExtrusionProfile&quot; : &quot;insets&quot;,&#xA;             &quot;layerHeight&quot; : 0.20,&#xA;             &quot;maxSparseFillThickness&quot; : 0.20,&#xA;             &quot;nozzleDiameter&quot; : 0.40,&#xA;             &quot;outlinesExtrusionProfile&quot; : &quot;outlines&quot;,&#xA;             &quot;raftBaseExtrusionProfile&quot; : &quot;raftBase&quot;,&#xA;             &quot;raftExtrusionProfile&quot; : &quot;raft&quot;,&#xA;             &quot;restartExtraDistance&quot; : 0.0,&#xA;             &quot;restartExtraDistance2&quot; : 0,&#xA;             &quot;restartExtraRate&quot; : 25.0,&#xA;             &quot;restartExtraRate2&quot; : -1,&#xA;             &quot;restartRate&quot; : 25.0,&#xA;             &quot;restartRate2&quot; : 25,&#xA;             &quot;retractDistance&quot; : 1.700000047683716,&#xA;             &quot;retractDistance2&quot; : 0,&#xA;             &quot;retractRate&quot; : 25.0,&#xA;             &quot;retractRate2&quot; : 50,&#xA;             &quot;roofSurfaceFillsExtrusionProfile&quot; : &quot;roofSurfaceFills&quot;,&#xA;             &quot;sparseRoofSurfaceFillsExtrusionProfile&quot; : &quot;sparseRoofSurfaceFills&quot;,&#xA;             &quot;toolchangeRestartDistance&quot; : 18.50,&#xA;             &quot;toolchangeRestartRate&quot; : 6.0,&#xA;             &quot;toolchangeRetractDistance&quot; : 19.0,&#xA;             &quot;toolchangeRetractRate&quot; : 6.0&#xA;          },&#xA;          {&#xA;             &quot;bridgesExtrusionProfile&quot; : &quot;bridges&quot;,&#xA;             &quot;feedDiameter&quot; : 1.769999980926514,&#xA;             &quot;feedstockMultiplier&quot; : 0.9300000000000001,&#xA;             &quot;firstLayerExtrusionProfile&quot; : &quot;firstLayer&quot;,&#xA;             &quot;firstLayerRaftExtrusionProfile&quot; : &quot;firstLayerRaft&quot;,&#xA;             &quot;floorSurfaceFillsExtrusionProfile&quot; : &quot;floorSurfaceFills&quot;,&#xA;             &quot;infillsExtrusionProfile&quot; : &quot;infill&quot;,&#xA;             &quot;insetsExtrusionProfile&quot; : &quot;insets&quot;,&#xA;             &quot;layerHeight&quot; : 0.20,&#xA;             &quot;maxSparseFillThickness&quot; : 0.20,&#xA;             &quot;nozzleDiameter&quot; : 0.40,&#xA;             &quot;outlinesExtrusionProfile&quot; : &quot;outlines&quot;,&#xA;             &quot;raftBaseExtrusionProfile&quot; : &quot;raftBase&quot;,&#xA;             &quot;raftExtrusionProfile&quot; : &quot;raft&quot;,&#xA;             &quot;restartExtraDistance&quot; : 0.0,&#xA;             &quot;restartExtraDistance2&quot; : 0,&#xA;             &quot;restartExtraRate&quot; : 25.0,&#xA;             &quot;restartExtraRate2&quot; : -1,&#xA;             &quot;restartRate&quot; : 25.0,&#xA;             &quot;restartRate2&quot; : 25,&#xA;             &quot;retractDistance&quot; : 1.399999976158142,&#xA;             &quot;retractDistance2&quot; : 0,&#xA;             &quot;retractRate&quot; : 25.0,&#xA;             &quot;retractRate2&quot; : 50,&#xA;             &quot;roofSurfaceFillsExtrusionProfile&quot; : &quot;roofSurfaceFills&quot;,&#xA;             &quot;sparseRoofSurfaceFillsExtrusionProfile&quot; : &quot;sparseRoofSurfaceFills&quot;,&#xA;             &quot;toolchangeRestartDistance&quot; : 18.50,&#xA;             &quot;toolchangeRestartRate&quot; : 6.0,&#xA;             &quot;toolchangeRetractDistance&quot; : 19.0,&#xA;             &quot;toolchangeRetractRate&quot; : 6.0&#xA;          }&#xA;       ],&#xA;       &quot;extruderTemp0&quot; : 228,&#xA;       &quot;extruderTemp1&quot; : 232,&#xA;       &quot;extrusionProfiles&quot; : {&#xA;          &quot;bridges&quot; : {&#xA;             &quot;fanSpeed&quot; : 0.50,&#xA;             &quot;feedrate&quot; : 40.0&#xA;          },&#xA;          &quot;firstLayer&quot; : {&#xA;             &quot;fanSpeed&quot; : 0.50,&#xA;             &quot;feedrate&quot; : 10.0&#xA;          },&#xA;          &quot;firstLayerRaft&quot; : {&#xA;             &quot;fanSpeed&quot; : 0.50,&#xA;             &quot;feedrate&quot; : 50.0&#xA;          },&#xA;          &quot;floorSurfaceFills&quot; : {&#xA;             &quot;fanSpeed&quot; : 0.50,&#xA;             &quot;feedrate&quot; : 40.0&#xA;          },&#xA;          &quot;infill&quot; : {&#xA;             &quot;fanSpeed&quot; : 0.50,&#xA;             &quot;feedrate&quot; : 40.0&#xA;          },&#xA;          &quot;insets&quot; : {&#xA;             &quot;fanSpeed&quot; : 0.50,&#xA;             &quot;feedrate&quot; : 40.0&#xA;          },&#xA;          &quot;outlines&quot; : {&#xA;             &quot;fanSpeed&quot; : 0.50,&#xA;             &quot;feedrate&quot; : 10.0&#xA;          },&#xA;          &quot;raft&quot; : {&#xA;             &quot;fanSpeed&quot; : 0.50,&#xA;             &quot;feedrate&quot; : 90.0&#xA;          },&#xA;          &quot;raftBase&quot; : {&#xA;             &quot;fanSpeed&quot; : 0.50,&#xA;             &quot;feedrate&quot; : 10.0&#xA;          },&#xA;          &quot;roofSurfaceFills&quot; : {&#xA;             &quot;fanSpeed&quot; : 0.50,&#xA;             &quot;feedrate&quot; : 90.0&#xA;          },&#xA;          &quot;sparseRoofSurfaceFills&quot; : {&#xA;             &quot;fanSpeed&quot; : 0.50,&#xA;             &quot;feedrate&quot; : 90.0&#xA;          }&#xA;       },&#xA;       &quot;fixedLayerStartX&quot; : 0.0,&#xA;       &quot;fixedLayerStartY&quot; : 0.0,&#xA;       &quot;fixedShellStartDirection&quot; : 215.0,&#xA;       &quot;floorSolidThickness&quot; : 0,&#xA;       &quot;floorSurfaceThickness&quot; : 0,&#xA;       &quot;floorThickness&quot; : 1.0,&#xA;       &quot;gridSpacingMultiplier&quot; : 1.0,&#xA;       &quot;infillDensity&quot; : 0.3000000119209290,&#xA;       &quot;infillOrientationInterval&quot; : 90,&#xA;       &quot;infillOrientationOffset&quot; : 0,&#xA;       &quot;infillOrientationRange&quot; : 90,&#xA;       &quot;infillShellSpacingMultiplier&quot; : 0.70,&#xA;       &quot;insetDistanceMultiplier&quot; : 1.0,&#xA;       &quot;jsonToolpathOutput&quot; : false,&#xA;       &quot;layerHeight&quot; : 0.1199999973177910,&#xA;       &quot;leakyConnectionsAdjacentDistance&quot; : 0.0,&#xA;       &quot;maxConnectionLength&quot; : 10.0,&#xA;       &quot;maxSparseFillThickness&quot; : 0.1000000014901161,&#xA;       &quot;maxSpurWidth&quot; : 0.50,&#xA;       &quot;minLayerDuration&quot; : 5.0,&#xA;       &quot;minLayerHeight&quot; : 0.010,&#xA;       &quot;minRaftBaseGap&quot; : 0.0,&#xA;       &quot;minSpeedMultiplier&quot; : 0.30,&#xA;       &quot;minSpurLength&quot; : 0.40,&#xA;       &quot;minSpurWidth&quot; : 0.120,&#xA;       &quot;minThickInfillImprovement&quot; : 1.0,&#xA;       &quot;modelFillProfiles&quot; : {},&#xA;       &quot;numberOfShells&quot; : 2,&#xA;       &quot;platformTemp&quot; : 110,&#xA;       &quot;purgeBucketSide&quot; : 4.0,&#xA;       &quot;purgeWallBaseFilamentWidth&quot; : 2.0,&#xA;       &quot;purgeWallBasePatternLength&quot; : 10.0,&#xA;       &quot;purgeWallBasePatternWidth&quot; : 8.0,&#xA;       &quot;purgeWallModelOffset&quot; : 2.0,&#xA;       &quot;purgeWallPatternWidth&quot; : 2.0,&#xA;       &quot;purgeWallSpacing&quot; : 1.0,&#xA;       &quot;purgeWallWidth&quot; : 0.50,&#xA;       &quot;purgeWallXLength&quot; : 30.0,&#xA;       &quot;raftAligned&quot; : true,&#xA;       &quot;raftBaseAngle&quot; : 0.0,&#xA;       &quot;raftBaseDensity&quot; : 0.6999999880790710,&#xA;       &quot;raftBaseLayers&quot; : 1,&#xA;       &quot;raftBaseRunGapRatio&quot; : 0.8000000119209290,&#xA;       &quot;raftBaseRunLength&quot; : 15.0,&#xA;       &quot;raftBaseThickness&quot; : 0.3000000119209290,&#xA;       &quot;raftBaseWidth&quot; : 2.50,&#xA;       &quot;raftExtraOffset&quot; : 0.0,&#xA;       &quot;raftFillProfiles&quot; : {},&#xA;       &quot;raftInterfaceAngle&quot; : 45.0,&#xA;       &quot;raftInterfaceDensity&quot; : 0.3000000119209290,&#xA;       &quot;raftInterfaceLayers&quot; : 1,&#xA;       &quot;raftInterfaceThickness&quot; : 0.2700000107288361,&#xA;       &quot;raftInterfaceWidth&quot; : 0.4000000059604645,&#xA;       &quot;raftModelSpacing&quot; : 0.3499999940395355,&#xA;       &quot;raftOutset&quot; : 4.0,&#xA;       &quot;raftSurfaceAngle&quot; : 0.0,&#xA;       &quot;raftSurfaceLayers&quot; : 3,&#xA;       &quot;raftSurfaceShellSpacingMultiplier&quot; : 0.6999999880790710,&#xA;       &quot;raftSurfaceShells&quot; : 2,&#xA;       &quot;raftSurfaceThickness&quot; : 0.1400000005960465,&#xA;       &quot;roofAnchorMargin&quot; : 0.40,&#xA;       &quot;roofSolidThickness&quot; : 0,&#xA;       &quot;roofSurfaceThickness&quot; : 0,&#xA;       &quot;roofThickness&quot; : 1.0,&#xA;       &quot;shellsLeakyConnections&quot; : false,&#xA;       &quot;solidFillOrientationInterval&quot; : 90,&#xA;       &quot;solidFillOrientationOffset&quot; : -45,&#xA;       &quot;solidFillOrientationRange&quot; : 90,&#xA;       &quot;sparseInfillPattern&quot; : &quot;hexagonal&quot;,&#xA;       &quot;splitMinimumDistance&quot; : 0.40,&#xA;       &quot;spurOverlap&quot; : 0.0010,&#xA;       &quot;startGcode&quot; : &quot;&quot;,&#xA;       &quot;startPosition&quot; : {&#xA;          &quot;x&quot; : -112,&#xA;          &quot;y&quot; : -73.0,&#xA;          &quot;z&quot; : 0&#xA;       },&#xA;       &quot;supportAligned&quot; : false,&#xA;       &quot;supportAngle&quot; : 30.0,&#xA;       &quot;supportDensity&quot; : 0.2000000029802322,&#xA;       &quot;supportExcessive&quot; : false,&#xA;       &quot;supportExtraDistance&quot; : 0.50,&#xA;       &quot;supportFillProfiles&quot; : {},&#xA;       &quot;supportLayerHeight&quot; : 0.2000000029802322,&#xA;       &quot;supportLeakyConnections&quot; : false,&#xA;       &quot;supportModelSpacing&quot; : 0.2000000029802322,&#xA;       &quot;supportRoofModelSpacing&quot; : 0.4000000059604645,&#xA;       &quot;thickLayerThreshold&quot; : 0,&#xA;       &quot;thickLayerVolumeMultiplier&quot; : 1,&#xA;       &quot;travelSpeedXY&quot; : 150.0,&#xA;       &quot;travelSpeedZ&quot; : 23.0,&#xA;       &quot;version&quot; : &quot;3.9.4&quot;&#xA;    }&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5518" LastActivityDate="2017-03-09T01:24:59.257" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3700" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-03-09T04:34:54.063" Score="2" ViewCount="104" Body="&lt;p&gt;In trying to understand 3D printers, I have watched some YouTube videos where the crafters make items with hinges. That in itself blows my mind. It is hard to grasp how something with moving parts can be printed. But specifically I am wondering if the concept can be extended to food printers to make, for example, a sugar or chocolate telescoping lollipop (sucker)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6348" LastEditorUserId="26" LastEditDate="2017-03-09T06:12:06.927" LastActivityDate="2017-03-10T18:02:25.677" Title="Can functional hinges be built with food printer?" Tags="|food|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2017-04-04T11:18:10.287" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3701" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3700" CreationDate="2017-03-09T15:15:11.370" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't know much about food printers. But at the very least, you should be able to print similar moving parts like hinges as you would with a standard FDM printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When printing things like hinges with a single extruder printer, the machine will typically be configured to include support structures. This is basically very thin scaffolding that higher layers of the print can sit on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As Tom van der Zanden pointed out, though, this highly depends on the food medium you wish to use. With plastic, the material is heated to a less than liquid point, usually allowing the material to &quot;bridge&quot; across gaps. If your food medium is too thin (or close to liquid) you will not be able to effectively print supports as the medium will fall between the gaps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are able to effectively print the supports for overhanging features, you should be able to knock off the supports with a small knife or toothpick. If it's a moving part, sometimes &quot;shimmying&quot; the part will knock the supports off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="98" LastActivityDate="2017-03-09T15:15:11.370" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3702" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3706" CreationDate="2017-03-09T18:04:22.330" Score="0" ViewCount="521" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm building an automatic warehouse system using three NEMA 17 stepper motor. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My problem is to move the motors with precision, since I do not have any kind of encoder on the motor and so I cannot know the position of the axes. I thought that the system could be similar to a 3D printer, since neither 3d printers have encoder on the motor. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Where can I find a sketch for Arduino of a 3D printer, to understand how they work? How do they move with such precision without any kind of sensor?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6181" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-07-06T10:27:52.253" LastActivityDate="2018-07-06T10:27:52.253" Title="Arduino 3D printer sketch" Tags="|diy-3d-printer|arduino-mega-2650|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2017-03-17T20:16:08.173" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="3703" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3704" CreationDate="2017-03-09T19:43:20.960" Score="1" ViewCount="510" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am a totally beginner at 3D printing and I have this question: I see many 3D printers (at amazon) with Z precision as low as 0.1mm! To me that's amazing but what does not amaze me is this: when I see the printed objects of those 3D printers you can easily with naked eye see the &quot;vertical steps&quot;. How?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A precision of 0.1mm should be really almost impossible to see. If a person printed using 0.1mm precision how can I see the vertical steps?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know there are some smoothin techniques to make the surface better but that shouldnt even be needed if the printer actually printed at 0.1mm in the first case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6352" LastActivityDate="2017-03-10T04:50:09.937" Title="Ugly 3D printing with high precision" Tags="|3d-models|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3704" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3703" CreationDate="2017-03-09T19:51:12.207" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The 0.1mm refers to the thickness of each layer. However, it does not say anything regarding:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;How precise the layers are in the XY plane&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;How precisely each layer is aligned with the previous in the XY plane&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;How consistent the extrusion is: are all the layers printed with a consistent line thickness&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No matter how fine the layers (and these printers that you refer to can definitely print 0.1mm layers just fine); if they're not well-aligned with each other, or the filament extrudes inconsistently, you're going to see the layer lines. It takes a rigid printer, with low-play bearings, a well-calibrated extruder and filament with a consistent diameter to get smooth-looking prints (but you will always see &lt;em&gt;some&lt;/em&gt; layering, especially if you look up close). Also, since filament is extruded in a round shape, the sides of the object are not perfectly flat, but consists of many small arcs, which makes it easier to see the layer lines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastEditorUserId="26" LastEditDate="2017-03-10T04:50:09.937" LastActivityDate="2017-03-10T04:50:09.937" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3705" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-03-09T20:04:52.797" Score="4" ViewCount="702" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been recently building a 3D printer and I'm having issues testing it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is my hardware:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;RAMPS 1.4&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Arduino Mega 2560&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;4x Pololu Motor shields A4988&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1x Nema 17 extruder&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2x floppy stepper motor&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1x DVD stepper motor&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Generic hotend with 0,4&amp;nbsp;mm nozzle&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then I assembled everything and I started testing... I tried the &lt;a href=&quot;http://reprap.org/wiki/File:RAMPS1.4_TestCode.pde&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;RAMPS test code&lt;/a&gt; and it didn't work (motors did not move, but I'm sure they are OK), then I tried using Marlin and Pronterface; it showed hotend temperature stuck at 150°C, but the hotend was not hot. Moreover the motors would not move.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also tried Repetier host and it returned an M999 error without any further explanation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had no problem installing firmware on the Arduino and the fan of the hotend is working. I also tried changing baud rate but it seemed not to work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6353" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2017-05-11T11:15:55.743" LastActivityDate="2017-06-10T11:24:16.687" Title="3D printer test troubles (M999 error, motors do not move)" Tags="|ramps-1.4|diy-3d-printer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3706" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3702" CreationDate="2017-03-10T12:02:03.190" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;[For now] most of the open source 3d printer firmware written for Arduino-based hardware. This means you can just download the source and look through the relevant pieces of code.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Marlin&lt;/a&gt; is the most obvious example.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3839" LastActivityDate="2017-03-10T12:02:03.190" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3707" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3700" CreationDate="2017-03-10T17:56:36.387" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I was looking at your question I thought it was impossible But a bit of research shows a resounding yes. If one looks at what Hershey can do, I see no reason why you could not printer a hinge. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://techcrunch.com/2015/09/16/likeachocolateselfie/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Hershey Tech crunch&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also keep in mind this is pretty fragile..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can take a powder printer that uses sugar as its base and a simple binder, maybe water. Tada you have advanced hinges and the like.&#xA;Here is &lt;a href=&quot;http://candyfab.org/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Candy Fab&lt;/a&gt; open source Candy printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are lots of ways people are doing this. Here is a SLS version where they just melt the chocolate with a laser..&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U8O_tP9j5Xk&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;SLS candy printer&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2146" LastEditorUserId="2146" LastEditDate="2017-03-10T18:02:25.677" LastActivityDate="2017-03-10T18:02:25.677" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3708" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3702" CreationDate="2017-03-10T20:34:29.693" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;A stepper motor is different from a typical electric motor. Instead of being &quot;on&quot; or &quot;off&quot;, or running a some approximate variable speed, the controller sends a series of pulses to drive the motor one step at a time. This can be driven forward or backwards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Based on how the motor and machine is designed, the machine will move a tiny amount. If for example, one step moves , say 0.1mm. If you send 150 pulses in the forward direction, the machine will move 15.0mm If you then send another 8 pulses in the reverse direction, the machine will be 14.2mm from the starting point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To know the absolute position, you need to establish the starting point. Most printers have limit switches at their &quot;home&quot; position. To initialize the position, drive the motor until it hits the switch, and then set position as zero.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then count the pulses up and down as you send them, you will will keep track of the machine's position.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5704" LastActivityDate="2017-03-10T20:34:29.693" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3709" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3683" CreationDate="2017-03-10T21:42:02.860" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In contrast to the other suggestions here, I would like you to try to &lt;strong&gt;slightly increase&lt;/strong&gt; the distance from the bed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The logic here is that the &quot;thin walls&quot; you are seeing during the first layer is is due to excessive extrusion as part of a too close bed leveling. The hypothesis is that the excessive plastic will &quot;nudge&quot; the previous laid down plastic, which will loosen it from the bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my experience, this issue only occurs when printing large, connected first layers - situations where the excessive plastic builds up with nowhere to go. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="115" LastActivityDate="2017-03-10T21:42:02.860" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3710" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6861" CreationDate="2017-03-10T23:27:48.510" Score="7" ViewCount="5155" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've heard that using hairspray is useful for keeping the 3D objects from peeling off of the bed, but every example I have seen where someone uses hairspray, they use it on a glass bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it okay to use it on a metal bed as well?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6361" LastEditorUserId="2338" LastEditDate="2021-01-11T09:48:44.173" LastActivityDate="2021-01-11T23:05:01.480" Title="Should you use hairspray on a metal bed 3D printer?" Tags="|pla|heated-bed|adhesion|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3711" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-03-11T12:53:23.377" Score="7" ViewCount="226" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am wondering if anyone here knows of any 3D printers that work by assembling models from parts instead of extruding or setting material.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The closest I have found is the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCtoqCrwr91bNH_hbPtBrprw&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;pixelstone&lt;/a&gt; but it appears to only be a prototype and I haven't seen or heard of any progress on it in over a year.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a similar house printer &lt;a href=&quot;http://fbr.com.au/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;fastbrick&lt;/a&gt; but it is also just a prototype.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is research papers on rapid prototyping with lego blocks and software for this (&lt;a href=&quot;https://all3dp.com/brickify-rapid-prototyping-lego/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;brickify&lt;/a&gt;), but these don't have machine assembly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And there are 3D printers that can do conductive filament in the model but none of these seem to do pick and place as well and they still need a human to add the electronics or to change the tool head. (&lt;a href=&quot;http://delta.firepick.org/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;firepick&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So are there any 3D printers that work like pick and place machines and just stick blocks together?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1476" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2022-11-13T12:22:33.640" LastActivityDate="2022-11-13T12:22:33.640" Title="Are there many assembly type 3D printers?" Tags="|3d-models|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="3713" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-03-11T15:45:09.743" Score="2" ViewCount="2268" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently bought a 3d printer and right now i am printing a normal cube just to try it out. However I was wondering, when it has the last part left of the printing where it needs to create the roof, how will the filament stay there and not just fall down as there is nothing underneath?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will I need to check the &quot;Support&quot; function in the print-settings before hand or is there something else i need to do?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks a lot for the help/tips!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6365" LastEditorUserId="26" LastEditDate="2017-03-11T16:50:34.140" LastActivityDate="2017-03-11T18:59:18.497" Title="Is it possible to print an object that has a &quot;roof&quot; without anything under it?" Tags="|fdm|support-structures|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3714" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3713" CreationDate="2017-03-11T16:53:08.247" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are printing a solid cube with infill, then the infill will support the &quot;roof&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are printing a hollow cube, then indeed, you should enable &quot;support&quot; to print a support structure under any overhangs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on the angle, you may not need supports. Generally, FDM printers can print overhanging structures up to 45 degrees without the need for supports. The steeper (i.e. further from parallel with the print bed) the angle, the better the result.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastActivityDate="2017-03-11T16:53:08.247" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3715" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3713" CreationDate="2017-03-11T18:59:18.497" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sometimes a &quot;roof&quot; can be accomplished using the bridging feature of the printer. Depending on your slicer and on your printer's capabilities, the filament can extend from one edge of a structure to another without using support. The slicer will &quot;recognize&quot; the endpoints and the distance between and speed up the travel and possibly increase the fan cooling, allowing minimal sag between points. There are resources available on many model sites to print bridging test pieces to help determine the limits of your printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Expect some sag on the first layer, with a reduction for each successive layer. If you have, for example, five layers for the top faces, the last of the five may cover the sag of the previous ones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Support is commonly used when there is no opposing endpoint to handle the bridging or when the distance exceeds the capabilities of the printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An example of a bridging test piece can be found on &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:476845&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Thingiverse&lt;/a&gt;, although there are many to be found with a simple search.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BhWlz.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BhWlz.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Bridging test example&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastActivityDate="2017-03-11T18:59:18.497" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3717" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2970" CreationDate="2017-03-12T01:42:29.860" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately, 123D Design doesn't have such a feature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could select multiple surfaces and push/pull them all at the same time though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remember, your 3D Printer's slicer should have an option to undersize or oversize holes and walls, to help reduce/remove the effect you talk about. &#xA;It's called size correction, I think? Simplify3D Has it, atleast. &#xA;You might have to tweak this for every filament type, though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6370" LastActivityDate="2017-03-12T01:42:29.860" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3718" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3590" CreationDate="2017-03-12T01:44:41.347" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your new oil butted out the old graphite lubricant. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't know about the metal particles though, might be dust, or your new oil caused damage to the bearings and/or rails.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6370" LastActivityDate="2017-03-12T01:44:41.347" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3719" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3668" CreationDate="2017-03-12T01:49:15.007" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's atom-based-printing 3D printers that only some universities have. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There aren't other 3D printers that can get even 0.001&amp;nbsp;mm precision, you want 0.0001&amp;nbsp;mm, that's pretty dicey. Just breathing on the device will make it shift a layer. Just walking on the floor next to such a device would kill it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This one works with resins though, &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprint.com/122337/nanoscribe-microscale-printing/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Ultra-High Resolution 3D Printing at the Micro-Scale with Nanoscribe&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6370" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2017-05-19T22:10:14.683" LastActivityDate="2017-05-19T22:10:14.683" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3720" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3727" CreationDate="2017-03-12T01:49:56.653" Score="3" ViewCount="868" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking for a post processing method for increasing the functional strength of a 3d printed part originally made by FDM. I've tried printing my part with solid infill but the layer separation is still the primary failure point. I'm looking for a way to get something closer to a cast or injection molded part. Obviously less strength but there is a pretty big gap in material properties.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only method I've thought of that might work is drilling a small hole, or series of holes in my part to inject an epoxy into the part. Haven't tried it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm open to any possible ideas or advice if someone has tried something like this. Not sure if this is necessarily the best place but thought it's a good place to start.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5518" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-05-01T14:57:38.583" LastActivityDate="2019-05-01T14:57:38.583" Title="Post processing FDM for strength" Tags="|fdm|post-processing|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="3722" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3720" CreationDate="2017-03-12T06:52:10.620" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Layer separation will always be the primary failure point of FDM. So your best action would be to design parts in such a way that forces are applied across the Z axis, not along it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If layer bonding is too weak, this is a problem that should be solved during printing. Possible reasons are: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Nozzle temperature too low&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Filament contains moisture from the air&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Filament covered with dust&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Inappropriate ratio of nozzle diameter/layer height. We usually use 2 (0.4 nozzle for 0.2 layer) while theory suggests it should be more than 3.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Inappropriate cooling of part during printing, drafts.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If all this things are set right, no post-process treatment will improve the part. If not, you could reduce inner tensions by blasting the part with hot air gun, but it is better to solve the problem, not the consequences. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4345" LastActivityDate="2017-03-12T06:52:10.620" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3725" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3710" CreationDate="2017-03-12T07:13:10.033" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Do you mean bare metal or metal with some film on top? You can apply hair spray to bare metal, but you will have troubles cleaning it off. Solvents do not evaporate hair spray, they only turn it into thick sticky goo you will need to clean off. I recommend that you try glue stick or even beer (seriously) before hair spray.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;You should also know that &lt;em&gt;any&lt;/em&gt; adhesive is required only when your printer has bed leveling issues. After I finally dealt with bed leveling, I print ABS, and even ABS/PC mix (nasty) without any adhesive, on a bare kapton film over a metal bed. I rub it with alcohol before printing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4345" LastActivityDate="2017-03-12T07:13:10.033" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3726" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3554" CreationDate="2017-03-12T07:24:45.540" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had a very similar problem once and the culprit was the relative position of the filament spool and the printer. The spool was standing on a coaster next to the printer and it turned out to be enough to create a pulling force on the filament. I have moved the spool to a shelf above the printer and the problem was gone.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;However, your printer seems to have a way more rigid Z axis than mine, so it is unlikely the issue here. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4345" LastActivityDate="2017-03-12T07:24:45.540" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3727" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3720" CreationDate="2017-03-12T11:48:15.943" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Recognizing that the posting party feels that FDM constructed parts are of insufficient strength for his purpose and allowing for proper layer bonding, one can understand that the model can be perfectly constructed and not reach the strength objective.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Filling a model with an epoxy or a casting resin will provide additional strength. Testing smaller, non-critical models is recommended to determine the level of increase. The design has to be re-engineered to provide for resin/epoxy flow within the model. Some epoxy and resin formulations generate heat when curing and may soften the model. The solution in such cases is to mix and pour small amounts, allowing for a pause between pours.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An alternative to filling a model is to reduce the perimeter (if applicable)  and apply a reinforcing layer. I've constructed satisfactorily printed models with insufficient strength for my purposes, but then applied fiberglass cloth and epoxy resin to the outside. A single layer provided the necessary strength in my case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One could apply sufficient layers to provide all the necessary strength, effectively turning the model into a positive mold. This is commonly done with amateur-built aircraft of the Burt Rutan design style. More recently, an article appeared on the internet of a model being printed with wash-away support material only, covered in carbon fiber. The wash-away was washed away and the wing structure became the product. For your application, it may not be necessary or practical to remove the inner model.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just as with the injection concept, one must re-engineer the model to allow for this type of reinforcement. Edges will have to be radiused or the sharp termination of reinforcement layer will become a weak point. Tight inside angles will have a similar problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fiberglass cloth comes in various weights, measured in ounces per square foot (US). The lighter cloth is more capable of &quot;turning corners&quot; and fitting into tight angles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastActivityDate="2017-03-12T11:48:15.943" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3728" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3734" CreationDate="2017-03-12T12:07:23.187" Score="10" ViewCount="5242" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there any way to test what kind your filament is? There are no labels on the spools and I don't know whether they are ABS or PLA.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I got the plastic with the printer, which is no longer sold (Solidoodle 2). Since I bought it on eBay that is probably why it has unprofessional filament. The plastic filament came with the printer which is now off sale (Solidoodle v2).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I set my extruder to 210&amp;nbsp;°C and bed to 50&amp;nbsp;°C and it printed fine (with tons of hairspray and painters tape).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I figured out where I got it. I got it from Solidoodle (who have gone out of business) when I bought the Solidoodle 2 right after it came out.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I bought PLA and ABS so it has to be one of the two. Any other ways without having to burn and smell plastic? I just have the roll with no numbers, works or anything on it. And how to I smell without breathing in the fumes?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6376" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2019-07-24T11:46:43.720" LastActivityDate="2019-07-24T11:46:43.720" Title="Identifying the plastic type of an unknown spool of filament or recyclable waste" Tags="|filament|part-identification|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="3729" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3728" CreationDate="2017-03-12T12:33:06.917" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boedeker.com/burntest.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Using The Burn Test to Identify Plastic Materials&lt;/a&gt; is one way. From the link:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To initially determine whether a material is thermoplastic (meltable)&#xA;or thermoset (non-meltable) type, heat a metal or glass stirring rod&#xA;until it glows red or orange (to about 500°F / 260°C) and press it&#xA;against the sample. If the sample softens, the material is a&#xA;thermoplastic; if it does not, it's probably a thermoset.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next, hold the sample to the edge of a flame until it ignites. If no&#xA;flame is produced quickly, hold the sample in the flame for about 10&#xA;seconds. If the material burns, note the color of the flame, the&#xA;nature of the smoke, the presence of soot in the air and whether,&#xA;while burning, the sample drips.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next, extinguish the flame and cautiously smell the fumes. To identify&#xA;the odor, samples of known plastic samples for comparison can be most&#xA;helpful. Finally, check your observations against the known&#xA;characteristics of each plastic as shown in the table below. Once you&#xA;have made a tentative identification, it is usually desirable to&#xA;repeat the flame test once or twice to confirm the results of the&#xA;original identification. Remember that additives may affect results.&#xA;For example: flame retardants can mask the polymer material's normal&#xA;flame &amp;amp; smoke burning characteristics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IDFnK.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IDFnK.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Burn Test Characteristics Table&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, remember ABS and PLA aren't the only types of filament.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;ABS and PLA have different melting points and smell different when melting. Maybe try melting little bits on a soldering iron or stove top. The smell could give it away. Just don't breathe in the fumes, it can be toxic, also molten plastic particles in lungs aren't great either. I'd recommend contacting the supplier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No markings complicates matters. Not very professional of the supplier. Smelling without breathing in fumes, just don't put your face directly over the fumes, just hold it away from your face and sniff sniff the air. if the smoke curls are going into your nose you are doing it wrong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6375" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:29:41.667" LastActivityDate="2019-07-24T11:44:33.133" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="3730" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3711" CreationDate="2017-03-12T12:47:11.890" Score="-3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've prototyped a design that used beads similar to these &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.infostir.com/images/plastic-beads-350.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.infostir.com/images/plastic-beads-350.jpg&lt;/a&gt; on a rod with a heated tip and then you just press them off into the design. But it wasn't too strong and had some pretty specific requirements of the model. Labelled it a failure. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6375" LastActivityDate="2017-03-12T12:47:11.890" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3731" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-03-12T19:08:39.763" Score="3" ViewCount="1811" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have bought two MKS base 1.5 boards. Both extruder ports are not working. I made sure the stepper motor still works and that there is nothing wrong with the Marlin firmware that I know of. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JQwB6.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JQwB6.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Photo of wired up MKS base 1.5 board&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="635" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2017-05-09T01:32:45.720" LastActivityDate="2018-10-04T05:56:04.953" Title="MKS base 1.5 (E0 &amp; E1) not working" Tags="|extruder|marlin|stepper|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3732" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3765" CreationDate="2017-03-12T20:45:20.317" Score="6" ViewCount="7246" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an stl with multiple parts that I want to split up. Cura 15 had an option to &quot;split object into parts&quot; but I can't find that in cura 2.4. Did it get removed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6176" LastActivityDate="2018-08-15T00:25:56.207" Title="Cura 2.4 missing &quot;split object into parts&quot;" Tags="|slicing|ultimaker-cura|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3733" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-03-12T20:57:22.407" Score="0" ViewCount="180" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am using Simplify3d software to print my first object, I set the temp to 230, but I notice that the temp some times reaches to 300 c, any help, here is temp plot&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bb8ho.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bb8ho.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;here is the communication code of last process&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;SENT: G1 X190.134 Y143.078 E11.6837&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: M105&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X175.230 Y157.981 E12.6300&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X175.239 Y158.007 E12.6312&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X175.399 Y158.378 E12.6494&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X190.541 Y143.236 E13.6109&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X190.928 Y143.415 E13.6301&#xA;READ: ok T:224 @:193 B:0&#xA;SENT: G1 X175.569 Y158.774 E14.6054&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X175.618 Y158.887 E14.6109&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X175.759 Y159.150 E14.6243&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X191.315 Y143.594 E15.6122&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X191.702 Y143.772 E15.6313&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X175.955 Y159.519 E16.6312&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X176.069 Y159.733 E16.6421&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: M105&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X176.163 Y159.878 E16.6498&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X192.627 Y143.413 E17.6953&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X192.910 Y143.696 E17.7133&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: M105&#xA;READ: ok T:225 @:191 B:0&#xA;SENT: G1 X176.384 Y160.222 E18.7627&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X176.588 Y160.538 E18.7796&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X176.608 Y160.564 E18.7810&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X193.283 Y143.889 E19.8398&#xA;READ: ok T:227 @:205 B:0&#xA;SENT: G1 X193.869 Y143.868 E19.8662&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X176.854 Y160.883 E20.9467&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X177.100 Y161.203 E20.9648&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: M105&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X194.403 Y143.900 E22.0636&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X194.520 Y143.918 E22.0689&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X194.728 Y143.970 E22.0785&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X194.854 Y144.014 E22.0845&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X177.362 Y161.507 E23.1953&#xA;READ: ok T:227 @:143 B:0&#xA;SENT: G1 X177.631 Y161.804 E23.2132&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X195.239 Y144.196 E24.3314&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X195.313 Y144.239 E24.3352&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X195.460 Y144.347 E24.3434&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X195.562 Y144.438 E24.3495&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: M105&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X177.909 Y162.091 E25.4705&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X178.202 Y162.364 E25.4885&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X195.825 Y144.741 E26.6075&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X195.862 Y144.792 E26.6103&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: M105&#xA;READ: ok T:231 @:120 B:0&#xA;SENT: G1 X195.957 Y144.955 E26.6188&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X196.026 Y145.105 E26.6262&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X178.495 Y162.636 E27.7394&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X178.519 Y162.659 E27.7409&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X178.810 Y162.887 E27.7575&#xA;READ: ok T:233 @:146 B:0&#xA;SENT: G1 X196.164 Y145.533 E28.8595&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X196.178 Y145.587 E28.8620&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X196.213 Y145.810 E28.8721&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: M105&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X196.230 Y146.033 E28.8822&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X179.127 Y163.136 E29.9682&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X179.273 Y163.251 E29.9766&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X179.456 Y163.372 E29.9864&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X196.210 Y146.619 E31.0503&#xA;READ: ok T:236 @:97 B:0&#xA;SENT: G1 X196.196 Y146.982 E31.0666&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: M105&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X196.304 Y147.090 E31.0735&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X179.797 Y163.597 E32.1217&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X180.072 Y163.779 E32.1365&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X180.143 Y163.817 E32.1401&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X196.587 Y147.373 E33.1843&#xA;READ: ok T:235 @:88 B:0&#xA;SENT: G1 X196.745 Y147.531 E33.1943&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X196.129 Y148.146 E33.2334&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X196.206 Y148.320 E33.2419&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X180.508 Y164.017 E34.2387&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X180.874 Y164.217 E34.2574&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X196.379 Y148.712 E35.2420&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X196.553 Y149.104 E35.2613&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: M105&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X181.263 Y164.394 E36.2321&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X181.655 Y164.568 E36.2514&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X196.726 Y149.497 E37.2084&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: M105&#xA;READ: ok T:237 @:66 B:0&#xA;SENT: G1 X196.793 Y149.648 E37.2158&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X196.882 Y149.906 E37.2281&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X182.065 Y164.723 E38.1690&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X182.485 Y164.869 E38.1889&#xA;READ: ok T:239 @:50 B:0&#xA;SENT: G1 X197.027 Y150.327 E39.1124&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X197.106 Y150.555 E39.1232&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X197.159 Y150.761 E39.1328&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X182.919 Y165.001 E40.0370&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X183.368 Y165.117 E40.0578&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X197.274 Y151.211 E40.9409&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X197.344 Y151.484 E40.9535&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: M105&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X197.376 Y151.675 E40.9622&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X183.834 Y165.217 E41.8221&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X184.317 Y165.299 E41.8441&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X197.457 Y152.159 E42.6785&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X197.503 Y152.430 E42.6908&#xA;READ: ok T:240 @:15 B:0&#xA;SENT: G1 X197.522 Y152.660 E42.7012&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X184.819 Y165.363 E43.5078&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X185.340 Y165.408 E43.5313&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: M105&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X197.566 Y153.182 E44.3077&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X197.583 Y153.385 E44.3169&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X197.584 Y153.730 E44.3323&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X185.889 Y165.425 E45.0750&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X186.453 Y165.427 E45.1003&#xA;READ: ok T:243 @:0 B:0&#xA;SENT: G1 X197.584 Y154.295 E45.8071&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: M105&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X197.584 Y154.344 E45.8094&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X197.538 Y154.907 E45.8347&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X187.065 Y165.380 E46.4997&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X187.435 Y165.350 E46.5164&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X187.705 Y165.306 E46.5287&#xA;READ: ok T:244 @:0 B:0&#xA;SENT: G1 X197.465 Y155.546 E47.1484&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X197.352 Y156.225 E47.1793&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X188.382 Y165.195 E47.7489&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X189.137 Y165.005 E47.7839&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X197.163 Y156.980 E48.2935&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: M105&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X197.113 Y157.176 E48.3026&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X196.893 Y157.814 E48.3329&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X189.970 Y164.738 E48.7725&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X190.047 Y164.712 E48.7762&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X190.214 Y164.653 E48.7841&#xA;READ: ok T:244 @:0 B:0&#xA;SENT: G1 X190.935 Y164.339 E48.8194&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: M105&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X196.496 Y158.778 E49.1726&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X196.415 Y158.961 E49.1816&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X195.958 Y159.804 E49.2246&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X195.812 Y160.027 E49.2366&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X192.188 Y163.651 E49.4668&#xA;READ: ok T:247 @:0 B:0&#xA;SENT: G92 E0&#xA;SENT: G1 E-1.0000 F1800&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X192.126 Y164.098 F3600&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 Z0.870 F1000&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 E0.0000 F1800&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G92 E0&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X191.259 Y164.568 E0.0443 F1875&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: M105&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X190.356 Y164.963 E0.0886&#xA;SENT: G1 X189.423 Y165.283 E0.1328&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X188.467 Y165.524 E0.1771&#xA;READ: ok T:249 @:0 B:0&#xA;SENT: G1 X187.494 Y165.686 E0.2214&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X186.510 Y165.766 E0.2657&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X186.164 Y165.768 E0.2813&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X185.527 Y165.765 E0.3099&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X184.544 Y165.682 E0.3542&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X183.571 Y165.518 E0.3985&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X182.616 Y165.274 E0.4427&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X181.684 Y164.952 E0.4870&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X180.782 Y164.554 E0.5313&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X179.914 Y164.081 E0.5756&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X179.624 Y163.893 E0.5912&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X179.094 Y163.541 E0.6197&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X178.316 Y162.933 E0.6641&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X177.593 Y162.263 E0.7083&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X176.928 Y161.535 E0.7526&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X176.323 Y160.753 E0.7970&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X176.133 Y160.464 E0.8125&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X175.790 Y159.929 E0.8411&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X175.323 Y159.059 E0.8854&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X174.931 Y158.154 E0.9297&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X174.615 Y157.220 E0.9739&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: M105&#xA;SENT: G1 X174.377 Y156.263 E1.0182&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X174.220 Y155.290 E1.0625&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X174.143 Y154.304 E1.1069&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X174.141 Y153.958 E1.1224&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X174.148 Y153.323 E1.1509&#xA;READ: ok T:250 @:0 B:0&#xA;SENT: G1 X174.235 Y152.339 E1.1953&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X174.403 Y151.368 E1.2396&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X174.651 Y150.413 E1.2838&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X174.976 Y149.483 E1.3281&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X175.378 Y148.583 E1.3724&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X175.855 Y147.715 E1.4168&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X176.042 Y147.425 E1.4323&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X176.396 Y146.898 E1.4608&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X177.009 Y146.123 E1.5052&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X177.690 Y145.393 E1.5500&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X177.735 Y145.349 E1.5528&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X178.478 Y144.684 E1.5976&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X179.266 Y144.089 E1.6419&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X180.101 Y143.562 E1.6863&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X180.976 Y143.105 E1.7306&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X181.886 Y142.723 E1.7749&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X182.825 Y142.418 E1.8192&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X183.786 Y142.191 E1.8636&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X184.763 Y142.045 E1.9079&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X185.748 Y141.980 E1.9523&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X186.735 Y141.997 E1.9966&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X187.717 Y142.096 E2.0409&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X188.688 Y142.276 E2.0852&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X189.641 Y142.536 E2.1296&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X190.568 Y142.874 E2.1739&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X191.867 Y143.474 E2.2381&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X192.518 Y142.823 E2.2795&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X193.105 Y143.410 E2.3167&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X193.821 Y143.318 E2.3492&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X194.266 Y143.309 E2.3691&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X194.514 Y143.327 E2.3803&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X194.805 Y143.374 E2.3936&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X195.033 Y143.431 E2.4041&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X195.292 Y143.522 E2.4164&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X195.490 Y143.613 E2.4262&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X195.716 Y143.745 E2.4379&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X195.883 Y143.867 E2.4473&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X196.072 Y144.038 E2.4587&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X196.210 Y144.191 E2.4679&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X196.362 Y144.398 E2.4795&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X196.469 Y144.581 E2.4890&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X196.581 Y144.824 E2.5010&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X196.655 Y145.036 E2.5111&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X196.724 Y145.312 E2.5239&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X196.762 Y145.553 E2.5348&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X196.785 Y145.855 E2.5484&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X196.779 Y146.212 E2.5644&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X196.685 Y146.990 E2.5996&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X197.225 Y147.531 E2.6340&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X196.534 Y148.222 E2.6779&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X197.110 Y149.524 E2.7418&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X197.432 Y150.457 E2.7861&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X197.676 Y151.413 E2.8304&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X197.841 Y152.387 E2.8748&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X197.923 Y153.371 E2.9191&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X197.924 Y154.358 E2.9634&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X197.843 Y155.342 E3.0078&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X197.681 Y156.316 E3.0521&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X197.439 Y157.273 E3.0964&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X197.118 Y158.207 E3.1408&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X196.721 Y159.111 E3.1851&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X196.250 Y159.979 E3.2294&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X195.709 Y160.805 E3.2737&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X195.101 Y161.583 E3.3181&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X194.454 Y162.285 E3.3610&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X193.729 Y162.953 E3.4052&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X192.950 Y163.560 E3.4496&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X192.661 Y163.751 E3.4651&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X192.126 Y164.098 E3.4937&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X192.331 Y164.442 F3600&#xA;SENT: G92 E0&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X191.434 Y164.927 E0.0458 F1250&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: M105&#xA;SENT: G1 X190.501 Y165.336 E0.0915&#xA;SENT: G1 X189.537 Y165.667 E0.1373&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X188.549 Y165.916 E0.1830&#xA;READ: ok T:252 @:0 B:0&#xA;SENT: G1 X187.543 Y166.083 E0.2288&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X186.527 Y166.166 E0.2746&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X186.164 Y166.168 E0.2909&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X185.509 Y166.165 E0.3203&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X184.493 Y166.079 E0.3661&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X183.488 Y165.909 E0.4118&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X182.501 Y165.657 E0.4576&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X181.538 Y165.324 E0.5034&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X180.606 Y164.913 E0.5491&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X179.710 Y164.425 E0.5949&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X179.405 Y164.228 E0.6112&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X178.859 Y163.866 E0.6406&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X178.057 Y163.237 E0.6864&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X177.309 Y162.545 E0.7321&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X176.621 Y161.793 E0.7779&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X175.998 Y160.986 E0.8237&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X175.798 Y160.683 E0.8400&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X175.445 Y160.131 E0.8694&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X174.963 Y159.233 E0.9152&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X174.557 Y158.298 E0.9609&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X174.231 Y157.333 E1.0067&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X173.985 Y156.344 E1.0524&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X173.822 Y155.338 E1.0982&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X173.743 Y154.321 E1.1440&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X173.741 Y153.958 E1.1603&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X173.749 Y153.303 E1.1897&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X173.838 Y152.287 E1.2355&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X174.012 Y151.283 E1.2812&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X174.268 Y150.297 E1.3270&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X174.604 Y149.335 E1.3727&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X175.019 Y148.404 E1.4185&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X175.511 Y147.510 E1.4643&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X175.708 Y147.206 E1.4806&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X176.073 Y146.663 E1.5100&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X176.705 Y145.862 E1.5558&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X177.403 Y145.114 E1.6017&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X177.461 Y145.057 E1.6054&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X178.224 Y144.375 E1.6513&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X179.038 Y143.760 E1.6971&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X179.901 Y143.215 E1.7430&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X180.806 Y142.743 E1.7888&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X181.747 Y142.348 E1.8346&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X182.717 Y142.032 E1.8804&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X183.710 Y141.798 E1.9263&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X184.720 Y141.647 E1.9721&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X185.738 Y141.580 E2.0179&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X186.759 Y141.598 E2.0637&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X187.774 Y141.700 E2.1095&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X188.777 Y141.886 E2.1554&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X189.762 Y142.155 E2.2012&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X190.721 Y142.504 E2.2470&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X191.782 Y142.994 E2.2995&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X192.518 Y142.257 E2.3462&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: M105&#xA;SENT: G1 X193.249 Y142.988 E2.3926&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X193.791 Y142.918 E2.4172&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X194.276 Y142.909 E2.4390&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X194.561 Y142.930 E2.4518&#xA;READ: ok T:252 @:0 B:0&#xA;SENT: G1 X194.886 Y142.982 E2.4666&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X195.147 Y143.047 E2.4787&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X195.443 Y143.150 E2.4927&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X195.676 Y143.258 E2.5042&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X195.935 Y143.410 E2.5178&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X196.136 Y143.557 E2.5289&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X196.355 Y143.755 E2.5422&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X196.521 Y143.938 E2.5533&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X196.696 Y144.178 E2.5666&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X196.824 Y144.395 E2.5779&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X196.952 Y144.673 E2.5917&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X197.039 Y144.921 E2.6035&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X197.116 Y145.232 E2.6179&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X197.160 Y145.507 E2.6303&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X197.185 Y145.843 E2.6455&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X197.179 Y146.239 E2.6633&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X197.105 Y146.845 E2.6907&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X197.791 Y147.531 E2.7342&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X197.011 Y148.311 E2.7838&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X197.482 Y149.377 E2.8361&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X197.816 Y150.342 E2.8819&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X198.068 Y151.331 E2.9278&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X198.238 Y152.337 E2.9736&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X198.323 Y153.354 E3.0194&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X198.324 Y154.375 E3.0652&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X198.241 Y155.392 E3.1111&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X198.073 Y156.398 E3.1569&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X197.823 Y157.388 E3.2027&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X197.491 Y158.353 E3.2485&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X197.080 Y159.287 E3.2944&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X196.594 Y160.184 E3.3402&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X196.034 Y161.038 E3.3860&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X195.406 Y161.842 E3.4318&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X194.737 Y162.568 E3.4762&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X193.988 Y163.259 E3.5219&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X193.183 Y163.885 E3.5677&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X192.880 Y164.085 E3.5840&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X192.331 Y164.442 E3.6134&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X179.387 Y163.328 F3600&#xA;SENT: G92 E0&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X176.574 Y160.515 E0.1786 F2000&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X176.418 Y160.279 E0.1914&#xA;SENT: G1 X176.083 Y159.757 E0.2192&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X175.739 Y159.114 E0.2519&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X180.801 Y164.177 E0.5734&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X180.933 Y164.248 E0.5801&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X181.809 Y164.635 E0.6231&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X181.834 Y164.644 E0.6243&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X175.269 Y158.079 E1.0412&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X175.248 Y158.032 E1.0435&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X174.973 Y157.217 E1.0821&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X182.699 Y164.943 E1.5727&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X182.714 Y164.948 E1.5734&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: M105&#xA;SENT: G1 X183.460 Y165.138 E1.6080&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X174.775 Y156.453 E2.1595&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X174.711 Y156.195 E2.1714&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X174.639 Y155.752 E2.1916&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X184.159 Y165.272 E2.7962&#xA;READ: ok T:252 @:0 B:0&#xA;SENT: G1 X184.586 Y165.344 E2.8156&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X184.817 Y165.364 E2.8260&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X174.545 Y155.092 E3.4782&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X174.498 Y154.479 E3.5058&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X185.434 Y165.416 E4.2003&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X185.542 Y165.425 E4.2052&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X186.012 Y165.427 E4.2262&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X174.482 Y153.897 E4.9584&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X174.488 Y153.340 E4.9834&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X174.488 Y153.338 E4.9835&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X186.570 Y165.420 E5.7507&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X187.093 Y165.377 E5.7742&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X174.534 Y152.818 E6.5717&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X174.573 Y152.383 E6.5914&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X174.586 Y152.305 E6.5949&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X187.604 Y165.323 E7.4216&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X188.089 Y165.242 E7.4436&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X174.669 Y151.822 E8.2958&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X174.736 Y151.440 E8.3133&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: M105&#xA;SENT: G1 X174.760 Y151.347 E8.3176&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X188.562 Y165.150 E9.1940&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X189.014 Y165.036 E9.2149&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X174.876 Y150.898 E10.1127&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X174.976 Y150.513 E10.1306&#xA;READ: ok T:253 @:0 B:0&#xA;SENT: G1 X174.997 Y150.453 E10.1334&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X189.456 Y164.912 E11.0516&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X189.878 Y164.768 E11.0716&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X175.144 Y150.034 E12.0072&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X175.290 Y149.615 E12.0271&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X190.294 Y164.619 E12.9799&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X190.688 Y164.447 E12.9991&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: M105&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X175.464 Y149.223 E13.9658&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: M140 S60&#xA;READ: ok T:259 @:0 B:0&#xA;SENT: G1 X175.639 Y148.832 E13.9851&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X191.081 Y164.274 E14.9656&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X191.109 Y164.262 E14.9670&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: M105&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X191.450 Y164.077 E14.9844&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X175.833 Y148.460 E15.9761&#xA;READ: ok T:257 @:0 B:0&#xA;SENT: G1 X176.034 Y148.095 E15.9948&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X191.817 Y163.879 E16.9970&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X191.953 Y163.806 E17.0039&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X192.169 Y163.665 E17.0155&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X176.244 Y147.740 E18.0268&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X176.326 Y147.612 E18.0336&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X176.469 Y147.399 E18.0451&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X192.512 Y163.442 E19.0638&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X192.751 Y163.284 E19.0767&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X192.846 Y163.210 E19.0821&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X176.699 Y147.064 E20.1074&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: M105&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X176.949 Y146.748 E20.1255&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X193.164 Y162.963 E21.1551&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X193.482 Y162.715 E21.1732&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X177.198 Y146.431 E22.2072&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: M105&#xA;READ: ok T:259 @:0 B:0&#xA;SENT: G1 X177.267 Y146.345 E22.2122&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X177.465 Y146.132 E22.2252&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X193.778 Y162.446 E23.2611&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X194.073 Y162.174 E23.2791&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: M104 S0 T0&#xA;READ: ok T:260 @:0 B:0&#xA;SENT: G1 X177.738 Y145.840 E24.3164&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X177.934 Y145.630 E24.3293&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: M105&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X177.968 Y145.596 E24.3314&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X178.017 Y145.553 E24.3343&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X194.355 Y161.891 E25.3718&#xA;READ: ok T:264 @:0 B:0&#xA;SENT: G1 X194.626 Y161.597 E25.3898&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X178.315 Y145.286 E26.4255&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X178.614 Y145.019 E26.4435&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X194.893 Y161.298 E27.4772&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X195.141 Y160.980 E27.4953&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X178.930 Y144.769 E28.5247&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X179.252 Y144.526 E28.5429&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X195.389 Y160.662 E29.5675&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X195.432 Y160.607 E29.5707&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: M105&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X195.617 Y160.325 E29.5858&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X179.583 Y144.291 E30.6040&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: M105&#xA;READ: ok T:262 @:0 B:0&#xA;SENT: G1 X179.930 Y144.072 E30.6224&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X195.841 Y159.983 E31.6327&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X195.958 Y159.804 E31.6423&#xA;READ: ok T:260 @:0 B:0&#xA;SENT: G1 X196.053 Y159.629 E31.6513&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X180.277 Y143.853 E32.6530&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X180.649 Y143.660 E32.6719&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X196.252 Y159.263 E33.6626&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X196.415 Y158.961 E33.6780&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X196.446 Y158.891 E33.6815&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: M105&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X181.021 Y143.466 E34.6610&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X181.121 Y143.414 E34.6661&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X181.412 Y143.291 E34.6802&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X196.619 Y158.498 E35.6459&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X196.791 Y158.105 E35.6652&#xA;READ: ok T:262 @:0 B:0&#xA;SENT: G1 X181.810 Y143.124 E36.6165&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: M105&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X182.005 Y143.042 E36.6259&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X182.223 Y142.971 E36.6362&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X196.938 Y157.686 E37.5706&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X197.082 Y157.265 E37.5906&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X182.650 Y142.832 E38.5071&#xA;READ: ok T:262 @:0 B:0&#xA;SENT: G1 X182.917 Y142.745 E38.5197&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X183.088 Y142.705 E38.5276&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X197.203 Y156.820 E39.4238&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: M105&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X197.317 Y156.368 E39.4448&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X183.546 Y142.597 E40.3192&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X183.851 Y142.525 E40.3333&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X184.015 Y142.501 E40.3408&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X197.407 Y155.892 E41.1911&#xA;READ: ok T:264 @:0 B:0&#xA;SENT: G1 X197.488 Y155.408 E41.2132&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: M105&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X184.507 Y142.427 E42.0375&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X184.799 Y142.383 E42.0507&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X185.015 Y142.369 E42.0604&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X197.539 Y154.893 E42.8557&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X197.582 Y154.370 E42.8793&#xA;READ: ok T:269 @:0 B:0&#xA;SENT: G1 X185.546 Y142.334 E43.6436&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: M105&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X185.756 Y142.320 E43.6530&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X186.104 Y142.326 E43.6686&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X197.584 Y153.806 E44.3976&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X197.583 Y153.385 E44.4165&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X197.570 Y153.227 E44.4237&#xA;READ: ok T:270 @:0 B:0&#xA;SENT: G1 X186.680 Y142.336 E45.1152&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X186.715 Y142.337 E45.1168&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X187.305 Y142.397 E45.1434&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X197.518 Y152.609 E45.7919&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X197.503 Y152.430 E45.8000&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X197.422 Y151.947 E45.8220&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X187.962 Y142.487 E46.4227&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: M105&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X188.612 Y142.608 E46.4524&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;SENT: G1 X188.662 Y142.622 E46.4547&#xA;Total build time: 4.48 minutes&#xA;READ: ok&#xA;READ: ok T:269 @:0 B:0&#xA;SENT: M105&#xA;READ: ok T:267 @:0 B:0&#xA;SENT: M105&#xA;READ: ok T:270 @:0 B:0&#xA;SENT: M105&#xA;READ: ok T:270 @:0 B:0&#xA;Disconnected.&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6380" LastEditorUserId="6380" LastEditDate="2017-03-13T06:37:29.097" LastActivityDate="2017-03-13T08:05:59.043" Title="Extruder temp is too high" Tags="|simplify3d|heat-management|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3734" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3728" CreationDate="2017-03-12T22:39:23.403" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;ABS dissolves in acetone, you could try clipping a small section and leave it in some acetone for a few minutes and if it begins to dissolve it's safe to assume that it's ABS, if not then you'll know that it's not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This won't confirm that it is PLA, only whether it's ABS or not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5518" LastActivityDate="2017-03-12T22:39:23.403" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3735" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3733" CreationDate="2017-03-13T08:05:59.043" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;What printer are you using? I had a friend who encountered this problem, at first we thought it was the slicer. Turns out, the wires for his extruder heater block and hot end fan were shorting, so whenever the extruder was turned on, it would keep heating no matter what the temp was set to. To test if this or something similar is happening, first unload your filament. Then, open up a small file in Simplify3D and set the temp to something low, like 100C. If the extruder turns on and just keeps heating, check your wiring. Make sure no wires are shorting and there are no bare/exposed connections.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6384" LastActivityDate="2017-03-13T08:05:59.043" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3736" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3659" CreationDate="2017-03-13T08:16:43.743" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This looks like a heating or retraction issue. I also have a Di3, and I encountered a similar problem a while ago. I have found that leveling the bed very well and making sure the z-axis is aligned fixes most problems with this machine. Re-calibrate your printer and try out a different slicer. &lt;a href=&quot;http://3dprinterwiki.info/wiki/wanhao-duplicator-i3/duplicator-i3-calibration/z-axis-squaring/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;This link&lt;/a&gt; from the 3D Printer Wiki is very useful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6384" LastActivityDate="2017-03-13T08:16:43.743" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3737" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3572" CreationDate="2017-03-13T08:23:30.157" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Either you are extruding way too hot, or your filament has absorbed too much moisture and the water absorbed inside the filament boils instantly in the extruder, resulting in a gap or &quot;bubble&quot; in the filament, leading to bad extrusion. What temperature are you extruding at with your PLA? Hope this helped!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6384" LastActivityDate="2017-03-13T08:23:30.157" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3738" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-03-13T14:45:29.847" Score="7" ViewCount="11645" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know this is still gray territory and it is asked so many times within the 3D printing and maker community but I'm curious about the limits of 3D models and were it touches on Free Use and infringement. I'm not trying to push the envelope, I just want to be clear on the matter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it legal if a design is rendered in a CAD program of a copyrighted material for &lt;strong&gt;no&lt;/strong&gt; purpose of using, distributing, creating, mixing, internalizing, re-licensing under GPL/CC, or any unauthorized use outlined by the owner of the original work? For instance, if someone is demonstrating the abilities of a particular CAD and makes a mock-up of Mickey Mouse just to show the limits of said CAD and the STL/OBJ isn't released or distributed and a letter of intent is given along with the demonstration regarding the original work (in this case, Mickey), is that infringement? In this example, no loss of revenue or sales will affect the original owner, no claims of ownership is implied or stated, and no physical model will be created.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While considering all of this, I figured that it wasn't very much different than if an artist sat down and drew a picture of Mickey Mouse. As long as the picture isn't sold, distributed, or released, in my mind, that is the same thing as a 3D render.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To further the details of the 3D model, the render would be made from scratch and not imported, copied, or reverse engineered from any other work. Bottom line, it will be a likeness that is created but it will be as close to the real thing as possible to demonstrate capabilities of a particular program (such as organic shapes, stitching, grouping, layering, or any other facet and characterization of 3D modeling).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I already understand that it is recommended to err on the side of caution and steer clear of things like this but it is more of a curiosity than a request for legal advice regarding a specific case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can this be covered under Fair Use?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since there is nothing to be made from creating the render, it isn't released or distributed to others, isn't re-licensed, and no ownership is implied/credit to the original owner is given, is this Free Use or copyright infringement?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2017-03-13T14:52:25.293" LastActivityDate="2020-10-29T15:43:26.097" Title="Can a 3D model of a copyrighted work be rendered legally without infringement?" Tags="|3d-models|cad|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3739" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3738" CreationDate="2017-03-13T15:05:45.183" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Whether or not you sell, distribute, release, license, profit from, claim ownership, etc... of something does not matter for copyright law. Copyright prohibits the very act of well, &lt;em&gt;copying&lt;/em&gt;. Specifically, if a work is protected by copyright, you can't (among other things)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;make adaptations and arrangements of the work&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;make reproductions in any manner or form&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;without permission (or a license) from the copyright holder. Just because you do something privately, don't distribute or profit from it, does not make you exempt from this rule.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In some cases though, a fair use exception may apply. In the United States, uses that may be (but not necessarily are) fair are limited to:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;criticism, comment, news reporting, teaching (including multiple copies for classroom use), scholarship, or research&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that in Europe, teaching is usually not considered fair use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So no, it would not in general be permitted to make a 3D model of a copyrighted work, even if you don't plan to do any of the things you listed with it. An artist would not be allowed to draw the picture of Mickey Mouse as you describe either. However, in the United States, your use could be construed as fair use for educational purposes. However, considering that you could equally as well have used some non-copyrighted work to demonstrate the limits of CAD (there's nothing specific to Mickey Mouse that makes him more suitable than any other model) I would recommend against this. An important argument in fair use is usually that there is no other option but to use the copyrighted work (e.g. in a class discussing pop music you have no option but to use excerpts of copyrighted lyrics).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:29:41.667" LastActivityDate="2017-03-13T16:34:01.883" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3741" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3521" CreationDate="2017-03-14T14:08:23.687" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is totally fine, it is what I did a lot at my previous job. I 3D printed cases for underwater stationary equipment, mini-submarines and simple buoys, and almost all of them work fine. In fact, most of the failures I had were the breach of sealant. Or someone forgot to close the lid. &#xA;For example this &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.sdelanounas.ru/blogs/63803/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;thing&lt;/a&gt; I've made.    &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To make watertight objects, follow the rules: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You may use PLA. Over the course of a few years in water it degrades only in color, unless exposed to direct sun heat for prolonged times. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Obviously, use several outer shells. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you are making floating thingy, and there is a free space in your hull, do NOT leave it empty! Instead, make it solid in the model, and set slicer to use sparce hexacomb infill with a solid layer every 20-30 layers. This way, your model will be made of hundreds of isolated pockets of air, so a breach of a hull in some place will not sink it. You can also drop lead pellets into those pockets as they are made to weight the ship properly. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Set nozzle diameter to layer height ratio to more than 3. It will produce nice thick layers welded shut. For example, use 0.7 nozzle for 0.2 layer or 0.4 nozzle for 0.1 layer. The last one can be a bad choice if your extruder can't provide that little flow and tears layers. In general, obtain those bigger nozzles for technical parts. 0.4 nozzle is for toys, really. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Remember that wires conduct water just as well as electricity - water runs between the isolation and the copper core. No wires should go through the containment. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4345" LastActivityDate="2017-03-14T14:08:23.687" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3742" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3744" CreationDate="2017-03-14T20:53:52.453" Score="7" ViewCount="33488" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an STL file and I would like to know how many grams would this print consume. Is there a software so I can get it or an online link that can say me  that?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6352" LastActivityDate="2019-08-12T11:30:17.517" Title="How many grams will be used in a print" Tags="|filament|abs|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3743" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3742" CreationDate="2017-03-14T21:45:11.277" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some slicing programs will give this information. Here is the first comment at the end of the print, which gives volume and length of material used, from gcode generated by &lt;a href=&quot;http://slic3r.org&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Slic3r&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt; ; filament used = 388.6mm (0.9cm3)&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.toybuilderlabs.com/blogs/news/13053117-filament-volume-and-length&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;ToyBuilder Labs&lt;/a&gt;, ABS is 1.04&amp;nbsp;g/cm&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt;, so 0.9 * 1.04 = &lt;strong&gt;0.936&lt;/strong&gt;, or just under one gram.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the G-code file produced by the slicer, search for &quot;filament&quot; or &quot;M30&quot; - it's right after the M30. You might need to use the verbose G-code option.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4922" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-07-23T19:43:01.193" LastActivityDate="2019-07-23T19:43:01.193" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="3744" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3742" CreationDate="2017-03-14T21:49:42.817" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can not tell this by looking at the STL file alone, because how much material will be used depends on the print settings (obviously, printing at 100% infill will consume much more material than 10%).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The best way to check the material usage is to load the model into a slicer and slice it using your preferred settings. Most slicers will report the projected material usage, often in grams but sometimes in meters of filament (but the two figures are easily converted between each other if you know the density and diameter of your material).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is an example in the Cura slicer:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/e23iM.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/e23iM.png&quot; alt=&quot;Cura print statistics&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Simplify3D (after you click &quot;prepare to print!&quot;) also shows you the projected print time and material usage and even the cost of the material (if you have previously entered the material cost per kilogram):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pjcxO.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pjcxO.png&quot; alt=&quot;Simplify3D print statistics&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastActivityDate="2017-03-14T21:49:42.817" CommentCount="12" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3748" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-03-15T22:43:59.033" Score="0" ViewCount="545" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm near the end of a full electronics swap of a dead 3d printer.  I'm using an MKS Gen 1.4 board with Repetier firmware.  This is my first try at attempting to set up auto-leveling from scratch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've got the inductive probe mounted, positioned and calibrated so that running a G30 (single probe) works perfectly and returns valid results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, when I try a G28 (home), then G29 to do a full auto-leveling sequence, just prior to each probing, the Y axis lurches forward (roughly)70 mm, and stays cumulatively out of position by the amount it lurched forward.  Since 70mm x 3 is bigger than the depth of my bed (200x200) the Y-axis bangs and grinds against it's physical limit.  Additionally, that puts the Z-probe beyond the edge of the bed, which causes the firmware to go into error mode, because the actual z-low limit switch is hit without ever tripping the Z-probe.  Which, annoying sends the Z-Axis moving up, until it ultimately crashes into its physical limit and grinds until I kill the power.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Why is my config causing this lurching behavior?  How do I fix it?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Can the error behavior be configured/changed to NOT attempt infinite movement in the Z+ direction?  (It might not matter once #1 is fixed, but I don't like the idea of my printer going into a mode where the Z-stepper could burn itself out if the power isn't flipped.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is the Z-probe section of my config.h:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Note:  I have tried changing Z_PROBE_Y_OFFSET to -75, to see if I was entering the offset incorrectly.  It didn't seem to change the behavior noticeably.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;// #################### Z-Probing #####################&#xA;&#xA;#define Z_PROBE_Z_OFFSET 0.2&#xA;#define Z_PROBE_Z_OFFSET_MODE 0&#xA;#define UI_BED_COATING 1&#xA;#define FEATURE_Z_PROBE 1&#xA;#define Z_PROBE_BED_DISTANCE 8.0 // Higher than max bed level distance error in mm&#xA;#define Z_PROBE_PIN ORIG_Y_MAX_PIN&#xA;#define Z_PROBE_PULLUP 0&#xA;#define Z_PROBE_ON_HIGH 1&#xA;#define Z_PROBE_X_OFFSET 10&#xA;#define Z_PROBE_Y_OFFSET 75&#xA;#define Z_PROBE_WAIT_BEFORE_TEST 0&#xA;#define Z_PROBE_SPEED 5&#xA;#define Z_PROBE_XY_SPEED 150&#xA;#define Z_PROBE_SWITCHING_DISTANCE 1.5&#xA;#define Z_PROBE_REPETITIONS 5 // Repetitions for probing at one point.&#xA;#define Z_PROBE_HEIGHT 22.68&#xA;#define Z_PROBE_START_SCRIPT &quot;m117 Autoleveling...&quot;&#xA;#define Z_PROBE_FINISHED_SCRIPT &quot;m117 Autoleveling Complete&quot;&#xA;#define Z_PROBE_REQUIRES_HEATING 0&#xA;#define Z_PROBE_MIN_TEMPERATURE 150&#xA;#define FEATURE_AUTOLEVEL 1&#xA;#define Z_PROBE_X1 20&#xA;#define Z_PROBE_Y1 00&#xA;#define Z_PROBE_X2 160&#xA;#define Z_PROBE_Y2 00&#xA;#define Z_PROBE_X3 100&#xA;#define Z_PROBE_Y3 120&#xA;#define BED_LEVELING_METHOD 1&#xA;#define BED_CORRECTION_METHOD 0&#xA;#define BED_LEVELING_GRID_SIZE 5&#xA;#define BED_LEVELING_REPETITIONS 5&#xA;#define BED_MOTOR_1_X 0&#xA;#define BED_MOTOR_1_Y 0&#xA;#define BED_MOTOR_2_X 200&#xA;#define BED_MOTOR_2_Y 0&#xA;#define BED_MOTOR_3_X 100&#xA;#define BED_MOTOR_3_Y 200&#xA;#define BENDING_CORRECTION_A 0&#xA;#define BENDING_CORRECTION_B 0&#xA;#define BENDING_CORRECTION_C 0&#xA;#define FEATURE_AXISCOMP 0&#xA;#define AXISCOMP_TANXY 0&#xA;#define AXISCOMP_TANYZ 0&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1349" LastActivityDate="2017-10-18T22:21:13.327" Title="Initial auto-leveling configuration" Tags="|diy-3d-printer|repetier|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3749" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-03-16T03:06:33.303" Score="4" ViewCount="290" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm working on developing alternative infill layers to print at different angles, using Slic3r. Using Slic3r's rectilinear infill, printing at &lt;strong&gt;specific angles for 3 layers then repeat&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm working towards finding the code in the source code where they alternate the layers and change it to alternate it for every 3 layers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know I will need some C++ knowledge to fiddle around with the Slic3r's source code, but if there is someone who can point me in the right direction I would gladly appreciate it!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6413" LastEditorUserId="6413" LastEditDate="2017-04-07T02:30:15.153" LastActivityDate="2017-04-24T21:51:00.040" Title="How do I repeat the layers of Slic3r for every 3 infill layers with different angles? (Might need some programming knowledge)" Tags="|software|slic3r|infill|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3750" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4394" CreationDate="2017-03-16T14:57:18.373" Score="1" ViewCount="728" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am wanting to buy a 3D printer to add to my shop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am an engineer and enjoy making/building things so the kit idea sounds fun and economical.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I see Tronxy has two different styles for their larger printers:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;P802 (reprap frame) style&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;X3 (metal frame) style.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as I can see, both printers have the same basic resolution, accuracy, and material specs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What are the advantages/disadvantages/differences between the&#xA;P802 and X3? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How important is auto-leveling?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6417" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2018-07-08T12:00:53.280" LastActivityDate="2018-07-08T12:00:53.280" Title="Tronxy printers" Tags="|print-quality|hardware|resolution|tronxy-x3|tronxy-p802|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3751" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3728" CreationDate="2017-03-16T15:46:19.363" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can identify filament type by smell of it when it is hot. Touch it with solder or smth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;PLA emits a sweet smell resembling the burnt sugar. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;ABS smells of chemicals. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;PVC smells of chemicals too, but this smell is very acrid and makes you sneeze. PVC is toxic to burn and to print! &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;PC has a very peculiar smell. If you bottle that smell into air freshener and call it &quot;flower meadow&quot; it will work. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;PET You know this smell. You experience it every time you unbox new gadgets. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;HDPE and PP smell of church. Of hot candles. They are not easy to separate, but an experienced person can do it by sound and feeling of snapping filament.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4345" LastActivityDate="2017-03-16T15:46:19.363" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3752" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3750" CreationDate="2017-03-16T15:54:31.063" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Auto-leveling is a great effort saver and a best thing in 3D printing in the last 10 years. While you can go without it, and many people do, it reduces the number of failed prints you will have at the beginning.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Properly leveled bed allows you to print without using any adhesive in it, improves you performance with ABS and other stubborn things. Don't skip on auto-level, especially if you are a beginner. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4345" LastActivityDate="2017-03-16T15:54:31.063" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3754" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3757" CreationDate="2017-03-17T01:43:29.620" Score="5" ViewCount="299" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have some files for 3d printing that I want to do structural analysis because I plan to apply loads on them. I know there is a Solidworks analysis module for this purpose called Simulation, but according to what I have read about this software it is not very effective for analyzing parts that have been created by layers such as 3d prints.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone work with this and could describe important features to make a good structural analysis?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5681" LastEditorUserId="5681" LastEditDate="2017-06-19T16:44:28.047" LastActivityDate="2017-06-19T16:44:28.047" Title="Structural Analysis" Tags="|support-structures|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3755" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3756" CreationDate="2017-03-17T06:48:39.623" Score="3" ViewCount="13034" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am about to purchase a TronXY X3 or P802; but, my PC is running Windows 10.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The spec sheet for the printers does not list anything above Windows 7.&#xA;Is anyone using either of these printers with Windows 10?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6417" LastEditorUserId="150" LastEditDate="2018-10-24T06:59:57.227" LastActivityDate="2022-09-06T03:26:06.383" Title="TronXY Windows 10 driver" Tags="|prusa-i3|software|electronics|tronxy-x3|tronxy-p802|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="3756" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3755" CreationDate="2017-03-17T11:17:42.447" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since the printer supports using an SD card, you don't &lt;em&gt;need&lt;/em&gt; to connect it directly to a PC. Serial over USB has been broken in the past in various Win10 builds, I've not tried it recently and I've not tried connecting my A8 to my PC recently either.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you need to use USB, and can't make it work with Windows, there is always the option of using a Raspberry Pi single-board computer (which you can then connect to by VNC from your PC). Depending on the software you want to use, this might resolve any remaining issues you have.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4927" LastActivityDate="2017-03-17T11:17:42.447" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3757" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3754" CreationDate="2017-03-17T13:34:47.003" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;For running an analysis on FDM printed parts Solidworks Sim would be extremely difficult to use. It's not really designed for running this type of analysis and is at the fairly low end of FEA analysis packages. An FDM analysis should be treated almost like a composite structure and you'd have better luck running something like ANSYS, or NASTRAN but those are by no means the only two. To get good (and accurate) results from FEA you'll need to model each layer, the bonding between each and the internal structure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've never done it myself but i've looked into doing it. The mesh required for even a fairly simple part looks pretty massive. Certainly possible and certainly doable, but you'd need to weigh your expectations against how much time it would take to model everything, set up the mesh and then run the analysis. In my experience, given that most FDM prints are pretty quick to build, it always seemed to be more efficient to build a few parts load them up and watch how they fail in a structural test. 20 hours of printing and then an additional 10-15 of setting up and running the tests were faster than running a proper FEA.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a quick and dirty FEA, i'd use the solid model of my part and only consider loads that acted normal to the Z-Axis of the print. Any loads that act in shear  apply a huge FOS. The closer to pure shear the larger the FOS you'd want to have. And any thin, tall parts i'd assume can take no loading outside of pure compression.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit:&#xA;Just noticed that this question had a tag on Heat-management&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as a Heat loads go, it'll depend heavily on the infill type and density you have on your model. Everything from above will still apply, but the loads would then be thermal loads instead of structural. Particularly with FEM at best your first analysis will only be within about 50% of true values and you will then need to update your thermal model with the results from your first verification test.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on the accuracy required from the analysis you could get away with modelling a hollow part with the walls of the part being the thickness of the printed shells. Higher accuracy analysis you'll have to model all layers as they are printed. If you're just looking for a 'will it melt' analysis, thin walls will work fairly accurately assuming you're confident in your material properties.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5518" LastEditorUserId="5518" LastEditDate="2017-03-17T14:14:34.903" LastActivityDate="2017-03-17T14:14:34.903" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3758" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-03-17T16:25:49.350" Score="3" ViewCount="519" Body="&lt;p&gt;Laboratory centrifuges have buckets that hold the sample tubes in inserts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The buckets are the black things on the rotor in the upper left corner holding the bottles. Examples of inserts are shown below (the colorful containers with slots for tubes). These fit into the buckets and I'd like to print them since these are expensive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it safe to 3d print these using a makerbot given the g-forces these rotor inserts will be subjected to (potentially 150g's under our settings), or will the inserts deform and unbalance the rotors under the stress? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally, is the precision of the printing good enough that the inserts can be expected to be well-balanced (the correct weight, with a symetric design having even weight distribution)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We have a basic makerbot that makes little plastic robots.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VVFZg.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VVFZg.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6433" LastActivityDate="2017-03-18T18:07:02.837" Title="Is it safe to print a rotor insert for a centrifuge using a makerbot?" Tags="|makerbot|safety|print-strength|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3759" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3758" CreationDate="2017-03-17T18:48:39.787" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's difficult to determine if the buckets are fully enclosed, but I suspect that they are. The enclosure into which the inserts are placed will provide some structural support. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3D printed objects have relatively low torsion strength, but a reasonable compression strength, especially with high infill levels. One could consider that the item placed into the insert will transmit force to the bucket, but likely not compress to the point of destruction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Allowing also that the forces on a swinging bucket centrifuge are &quot;downward&quot; or when in use, &quot;outward,&quot; the primary location of force will be the bottom of the insert you create. It appears that the main function of the insert is to keep the tubes separated, rather than to keep them supported.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Create your inserts, but leave an open bottom. Attach a suitably strong panel to the bottom of your created model with epoxy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another thing to consider in this project is the mode of failure. What can go wrong? The tubes in the insert should not explode, but if they do, is it merely cleaning up that follows? I suppose one aspect of the inserts is to keep the tube walls in column, to keep all forces linear to the tube cylinder, rather than out of line. It's easy to keep pennies in a stack under pressure, but don't push on them edgewise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can and should perform a test on a 3D printed insert. Make one that is relatively flimsy, say a six-tube unit and spin it without tubes in place. Test it prior to the spin for tube fit, then test it after the spin. If there is deformation, you would not be able to insert the tubes after the spin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastActivityDate="2017-03-17T18:48:39.787" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3760" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3758" CreationDate="2017-03-17T19:18:58.177" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The primary printer I use is a makerbot, and my gut is saying no. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;150G's of loading even in the XY axis seems pretty excessive for a part made on a Makerbot. Also, given that this is a rotational, the weight and balance will need to be held to a pretty high tolerance otherwise you'll end up having an off-balance centrifuge which could damage a pretty expensive piece of equipment. Admittedly I haven't checked the reliability for weight and balance of a part I've made for the loading condition you'd be going through but I'd be pretty hesitant about trying to run any FDM printed part under a loading case like that Makerbot or a high end printer given the speeds you'll be at. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it's your only option though, I'd suggest running your centrifuge at a very low speed first with the part in it and check it to see if you're picking up any transient vibration from it. Increasing the speed as you feel comfortable. My gut says that it'll fail before getting up to full speed from out of balance CofG of the part and the centrifuge starting to shake. Sounds terrifyingly fun to try though. IF you do try and run it,c an you post what happens? I'd be very interested in hearing the results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5518" LastActivityDate="2017-03-17T19:18:58.177" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3761" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3521" CreationDate="2017-03-17T20:59:35.290" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;You will really need to specify your constraints better because the short answer is &lt;strong&gt;yes, what you describe &lt;em&gt;is&lt;/em&gt; entirely possible&lt;/strong&gt;, but without knowing whether you are limited to a particular budget, process, or aesthetic, it's not a particularly useful answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some machines (ex. Stratasys Connex 1000) will print models up to 1m in length, so sure, you could print an entire hull with the dimensions you specify.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Pros&lt;/strong&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Monohull construction&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Excellent surface finish&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Many resin options are UV and salt water resistant with decent enough durability&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Cons:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ridiculously expensive machine with decently expensive resins&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It will waste plenty of support material in printing (which means added cost too)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Not really &lt;em&gt;easily&lt;/em&gt; accessible, but some design studios will have them and will print things for you, for a cost&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other machines (ex. Ultimaker 2 Extended) will print models up to 30cm along the vertical axis. It would require some assembly in the end, but you could segment your build and get a boat hull in the end.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Pros:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Easily accessible&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fairly low cost (Maybe under \$1000 for the machine vs nearly \$1M and many filaments cost 1/10th that of polyjet resins or sintering powders)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The materials themselves can be UV resistant and salt water resistant&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Cons:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Joinery and seams create passageways for water ingress, so you'd need secondary sealant&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The FDM process itself isn't always watertight, so you'd need sealant anyway&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Low interlayer adhesion limits the tensile strength along one axis and the shear strength in one plane, so you'd either need composite hull panels with varying print orientations (in which case, just do a composite layup instead) or a fairly careful analysis of principle hydrodynamic stresses&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's significantly more to the discussion as well, but without really understanding your design constraints, it's difficult to give any concrete advice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6425" LastEditorUserId="5" LastEditDate="2018-09-14T00:47:41.097" LastActivityDate="2018-09-14T00:47:41.097" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="3764" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3755" CreationDate="2017-03-18T09:30:20.620" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Typically, (hobbyist level, FDM) 3D printers do not require dedicated drivers. They simply show up as a serial port (COMx), and you just need drivers for the USB-to-Serial chip used in the printer's electronics. This is usually an FTDI device, an AtMega32u or CH340. Drivers for those are readily available (and are usually even downloaded automatically through windows update).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The P802 appears to use a variant of the Melzi board, with an ATmega1284p (the less-powerful cousin of the 2560 found in most printers) as the main processor and it claims to have an (FTDI) FT232RL serial converter (I could not find any information on the X3). You should be aware of this, as there are many fake FTDI chips on the market, and &lt;a href=&quot;http://hackaday.com/2016/02/01/ftdi-drivers-break-fake-chips-again/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;FTDI has been known to &quot;patch&quot; their drivers to break the clones&lt;/a&gt;. However, this problem is not specific to Windows 10. You can pretty much count on any 3D printer that works in Windows 7 working in Windows 10.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastActivityDate="2017-03-18T09:30:20.620" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3765" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3732" CreationDate="2017-03-18T16:56:03.947" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't think this feature was implemented at all with Cura v2.x. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As the developers say on the v2.1 release, &quot;Cura has been completely reengineered&quot;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finding proper changelog documentation appears to be pretty hard because they have not posted any actual changelogs except the &quot;user friendly viewable&quot; changelogs which only list additions of new features but don't display what everything they changed between each version of their application.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is the most complete changelog I could find. I do not see any mention of this feature. &lt;a href=&quot;https://ultimaker.com/en/products/cura-software/release-notes&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://ultimaker.com/en/products/cura-software/release-notes&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Going through the Cura 2 manual or the Cura 2.1 FAQ, also does not mention this feature.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/20406-installation-cura-2-1&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/20406-installation-cura-2-1&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Furthermore, searching around for version 2 &quot;split objects&quot; lead to forum posts of people suggesting to use some other software to achieve this specific task. If you decide to go this route, I recommend Meshmixer from Autodesk to manipulate your models and then export to STL and import them to Cura either as a whole new position set up or separate model files where you can change them there as you need to (meshmixer allows for object repositioning around a defined build plate so you can just import the whole assembly into cura and then print).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It might also be worth to put in a feature request on the UM forums.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6330" LastActivityDate="2017-03-18T16:56:03.947" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3766" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3758" CreationDate="2017-03-18T18:07:02.837" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is my understanding that you are looking to print the insert not the gimble bucket. The gimble bucket portion would be difficult and have high risk. Fdm 3d printing looks like it would be a good solution for the inserts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3D prints have a high strength-to-weight ratio especially in compression and will easily hold their weight and 150g. If the insert is properly drawn in cad with good tolerances the wall and floor of the gimbal bucket will help support the insert. You can experiment with infills but i am sure anything upwards of 30% will do well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my experience with printing on a reprap fdm printer, the same gcode and same fillament yeilds exactly the same weights. If you switch fillament types, have some extruder hangups, or modify the gcode and have some small variation; just hit the top of the heavy ones with a belt sander till they all measure the same. Make sure to not sand the bottom because the distance of the sample to the bottom of the gimble bucket needs to be consistent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastActivityDate="2017-03-18T18:07:02.837" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3767" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-03-18T18:31:39.540" Score="5" ViewCount="553" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been trying to change to the latest Cura (v2.4) from the older v15.04 (I'm sure there's a good story about why they reset the numbers).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's an annoying behaviour in my prints now, and I can't track down what is happening.  Everything goes fine, but during the print (maybe mostly near later layers) there are these moments when the print head doesn't move with the normal 30-50&amp;nbsp;mm/second, but perhaps 1-2&amp;nbsp;mm/second.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Watching the filament closely, it appears to retract filament at that moment, then the head moves &lt;em&gt;painfully&lt;/em&gt; slowly around the part. Then 10 seconds later it goes flying around again. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can't see a &quot;print speed during retraction&quot; setting. I see a speed at which the filament is retracted setting - I'm guessing that's unrelated. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm worried these frequent slow move sections are having two effects:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The hot print nozzle sitting on the part is deforming the surface features;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The hot print head is overheating the filament feeding into the nozzle and I get jams or sometimes swollen filament that won't go back into the nozzle as it tries to proceed further, causing a jam.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any idea what makes these super slow movements? The older Cura never caused any of them. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm using a Monoprice Select mini printer, with six months of good results before this showed up, and only with G-codes created with new Cura 2.4.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2595" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2017-05-09T01:34:38.847" LastActivityDate="2017-05-09T01:34:38.847" Title="Brief very slow moves near top layers" Tags="|hotend|speed|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3768" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3659" CreationDate="2017-03-18T20:24:26.637" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had a similar problem with my prusa i3 variant i built. I found that this issue would decrease in occurance when retraction was disabled however would not completely disappear. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After much experimentation I found this to be a &lt;strong&gt;feed&lt;/strong&gt; issue with the extruder. In other words the filament was not being pushed hard enough to the teeth of the hobbed bolt to have enough traction to pull the filament down as fast and easy as the extruder would to pull the filament up during retraction. Even without retraction enabled, my extruder's drive gear teeth would not dig deep enough into the filament to pull a consistent amount of filament for the same &lt;em&gt;x&lt;/em&gt; amount of distance per instances of a similar timeframe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Essentially because retraction speeds are much faster than normal extrusion &lt;strong&gt;and&lt;/strong&gt; there is not enough force required to retract compared to having to pull filament from the spool the retraction and extrusion settings would yield results that do not match actual expected filament travel distance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My recommendation in your case:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) tighten your extuder idler so it puts more force on the filament. What might appear tight to you does not necessarily mean is tight enough for consistent pull. If yours uses the two long screws on springs for force maybe consider getting longer and tougher springs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) Be aware of your extrusion steps/speed. You don't want to grind your filament when retracting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6330" LastActivityDate="2017-03-18T20:24:26.637" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3769" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="380" CreationDate="2017-03-19T00:07:40.257" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Drilling is indeed possible, but as stated in previous answers you should preferably do this along the vertical from the print bed for maximum strength,  and if possible use an undersized hole as a starting point/guide. Drilling horizontally may cause the layers to separate but if you clamp down in the z-direction you're much more likely to succeed. It's likely to start cracking if even a relatively small torque is applied (one layer with bad adhesion is enough to make it surprisingly weak). If you still need to apply torque from the horizontal consider reinforcing the structure in the z-direction or splitting your print and gluing/fusing the pieces together to get some strength in both directions.&#xA;Two holes of decent strength (one along the vertical and one along the horizontal) can also be achieved by adding vertical holes and bolt the layers together. &#xA;When drilling take care not to apply too much force and make sure the excess doesn't get stuck in the drill bit. Any drill bit should work but I find that wood ones have a slight higher tendency to make the bit jam. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6445" LastEditorUserId="854" LastEditDate="2017-03-19T12:54:35.453" LastActivityDate="2017-03-19T12:54:35.453" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3770" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="380" CreationDate="2017-03-19T07:51:26.160" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;In addition to the good answers already given, I'd like to add: Use a sharp drill bit, and don't go too fast. Dull drill bits and fast rotation are more likely to heat up the plastic (especially PLA) to a point where it gets soft again, and then you're usually in trouble because instead of a clean round cut, the material will start to bend and tear. And if you allow it to cool around the drill bit - well, I destroyed a thread tap this way...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4620" LastActivityDate="2017-03-19T07:51:26.160" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3771" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4125" CreationDate="2017-03-19T14:24:01.617" Score="6" ViewCount="8807" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there a commercially available fume and nano particle extractor for a 3D printer, like the Ultimaker3 extended?  I'm looking for a safe solution, to use at home, for around $800. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6452" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2019-05-27T08:07:34.490" LastActivityDate="2020-12-01T07:12:35.483" Title="Commercially available 3D printer fume and UFP extractor" Tags="|diy-3d-printer|safety|enclosure|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3774" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3659" CreationDate="2017-03-19T16:47:10.700" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Thanks to all the replies. Whilst all of them may be valid in some scenarios, my case seemed to have been a combination of things, that relates to most of the replies here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had my spool holder on the side of the machine, and I noticed some friction as the filament feeded over the &quot;arm&quot; on top of the printer into the extruder. I sat and looked at this for a while, and it seemed apparent that as the extruder moves up, the angle of the filament over the &quot;guide arm&quot; on top changes to a more severe bend. This may have been why it always battles to extrude nicely at a certain height, and then maybe recoveres after that to an extent. (SO yes, under extrusion may have been the issue)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have now moved the filament to on top of the printer to feed straight down. I have also slowed down the travel to about half of what it was (40 now, was 60). I also dropped the infill speed a bit as that was also a mess most of the times.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So far I have had excellent results! I am not sure if its the travel speed drop or the extruder feed that helped the most, but I am a happy chappie again. (So far).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for all the input. It really made me re-look at all of this from a different view.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6209" LastActivityDate="2017-03-19T16:47:10.700" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3775" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="380" CreationDate="2017-03-19T23:52:51.117" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The primary difference between drilling FDM printed plastic and wood is that the plastic part is not solid the entire way through, and that plastic will melt or burn at much lower temperatures than wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you know before printing that you're going to want to drill the part or potentially need to, then you'll want to modify the design of the part such that there will be sufficient internal reinforcement and material in the location of the drill site. The way I've done this in the past is put a through hole through the the entire part and slightly undersize the hole. Then I also increase the number of shells on the part so that the threads will have some extra material to bite into.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you know you're going to need a hole in the part but not sure where then I'd suggest using the highest level of infill possible on the print so that your part will be as close as possible to being solid plastic. Or if there are a few areas you think might need to be drilled you can build your own internal structure but that can take a lot of time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you didn't know your part was going to need to be drilled AND you printed with minimal infill then be very careful about drilling and only use minimal pressure to cut through the top layer to avoid crushing the part. Then once the part is drilled all the way through consider filling the part with an epoxy to reinforce the hole location (if necessary). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Best case scenario though is knowing where and how big you need the hole to be before print. Of course though specs change on the daily.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for the heat generated from the drilling process I haven't had much trouble with dissipating it. My 'method' for drilling a printed part (technically reaming) is that after I align my hole with my drill press, I then tap the drill-bit cutting only a millimeter at a time, then retract, wait a few seconds then repeat until all the way through. A little time consuming but my reasoning is to minimize burning and overheating of the hole due to the cutting friction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In all honesty I think my drilling approach is overkill. But, every time I've needed to do it has been due to an error in modelling. I didn't have the time to reprint and was under a time crunch. My post processing step therefore did not have the option to fail so I was extra careful. Whether it was overkill or not it definitely worked, and it's always better to be a little more cautious than late.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5518" LastActivityDate="2017-03-19T23:52:51.117" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3776" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3777" CreationDate="2017-03-20T00:12:31.033" Score="1" ViewCount="265" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have built a few parts that have printed 'pins' on them (2mm diameter 1.5 cm length). Due to the orientation that the build requires the pins have to have support material on them. (The part has to be printed with the pins parallel to the build plate for strength reasons and the orientation can't change).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problems i'm having is that the surface of the pins are quite rough. The pins are designed to press-fit into a soft rubbery tube, and the pin surface roughness is cutting into the softer tube. The roughness is due to both the layer edges of the print, and that the support material leaving some 'burrs'. I'd like to smooth the outside of my pins with some type of post processing technique. Ideally I'd like to keep the pins as close to dimensionally accurate as possible, but I realize they won't be perfect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The two methods I've considered are sanding the pins by hand and placing my part in an acetone vapor chamber for a while. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sanding, I think, is the best option of the two so far but it's a bit tedious, and is quite difficult to do, due to the size of the pins, their location and my fingers are pretty big relative to the space I'm working in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't like the idea of using acetone because the few times I've tried doing this in the past, my parts always came out warped or misshapen I think due to the relief of stresses. (or I did it wrong, both seem plausible).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If anyone has a third option (or more) I'd be glad to hear. Or if there is another approach altogether that I haven't considered that can be done on an FDM style printer that would also be appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5518" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2018-11-28T16:07:04.150" LastActivityDate="2018-11-28T16:07:04.150" Title="FDM, ABS Post-processing methods" Tags="|abs|post-processing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3777" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3776" CreationDate="2017-03-20T09:39:22.700" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your objective is quite a challenge, considering the limitations within which you have to operate. Small diameter of an appreciable length is daunting indeed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would consider to use a regulated heat source such as a soldering station, one with removable tips. After electing an appropriate tip to handle the dimensions, a hole drilled into the tip to accept the pin diameter and length would be the next step.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There would be consideration needed for the plastic material pushed ahead of the soldering tip, as well as angular stability while pushing the soldering iron onto the pins.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To improve these circumstances, a sharp edge ground at the end of the soldering iron tip would give a better shearing of the excess plastic. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The temperature control would be critical to prevent destruction of the pin within the tip and to provide optimum removal via the cutting end.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Directly related to the above, but without the heat would be the equivalent tool to be used in a rotary grinder such as a Dremel. The bore of the custom-made cutter would match the pin and the sharp cutting end could also have serrations such as those found on hole-saws. Low speeds and a steady hand are required!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If either of the above suggestions do not remove sufficient plastic roughness, one would make the pins of a larger diameter and ensure that excess is removed to specifications.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: Additional thoughts. Hobby stores and online equivalents will sell very small diameter tubing. It might be an easy matter to find 2 mm inside diameter tubing of brass or even stainless steel. A few passes on a piece of sandpaper while the tubing is chucked in an electric hand drill and you have a sharp cutting edge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastEditorUserId="854" LastEditDate="2017-03-21T22:42:52.840" LastActivityDate="2017-03-21T22:42:52.840" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3778" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3767" CreationDate="2017-03-21T11:45:45.853" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are the layers where this is happening smaller than previous layers? Many slicers have a minimum layer time setting where if the layer takes less than X time, it will either slow the layer down or possibly pause until the time is reached.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This can be useful to allow the previous layer to cool down and harden up a bit before more hot plastic is added.  If you're not having issues cooling the print then you could disable this.  I've only ever used Slic3r, KISSlicer, and Simplify3D so I'm not sure where the setting would be in Cura but those slicers all had/have the option.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="233" LastActivityDate="2017-03-21T11:45:45.853" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3780" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="505" CreationDate="2017-03-22T07:53:21.963" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;you could always slightly slot the holes on your aluminum bed so its not corner constrained and forced to bow in the middle..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My advice is use both and hairspray&#xA;currently testing the effectiveness of insulation on the bottom of the plate&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6504" LastActivityDate="2017-03-22T07:53:21.963" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3781" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3748" CreationDate="2017-03-22T17:57:24.393" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well, I´m using marlin for my printers and normally the offset is negative, this difference is from the 0.0 Z value sensor and nozzle. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, I have an aluminum plate, so this material is less inductive and I'm getting a height of nozzle 1.2 mm; normally this value should be above 5mm, but my printers reads 1.2mm&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So my offset is 1.2mm (this values is dangerous for me) because I can bend the plate if sensor stop working.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;the safety z height on G28 is 4mm and also for auto probing G29, the speed testing for Z is lower than travel X and Y. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;    #ifdef AUTO_BED_LEVELING_GRID&#xA;&#xA;    // set the rectangle in which to probe&#xA;    #define LEFT_PROBE_BED_POSITION 8&#xA;    #define RIGHT_PROBE_BED_POSITION 156&#xA;    #define BACK_PROBE_BED_POSITION 156&#xA;    #define FRONT_PROBE_BED_POSITION 8&#xA;&#xA;     // set the number of grid points per dimension&#xA;     // I wouldn't see a reason to go above 3 (=9 probing points on the bed)&#xA;    #define AUTO_BED_LEVELING_GRID_POINTS 2&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;  #else  // not AUTO_BED_LEVELING_GRID&#xA;    // with no grid, just probe 3 arbitrary points.  A simple cross-product&#xA;    // is used to esimate the plane of the print bed&#xA;&#xA;      #define ABL_PROBE_PT_1_X 15&#xA;      #define ABL_PROBE_PT_1_Y 156&#xA;      #define ABL_PROBE_PT_2_X 15&#xA;      #define ABL_PROBE_PT_2_Y 20&#xA;      #define ABL_PROBE_PT_3_X 156&#xA;      #define ABL_PROBE_PT_3_Y 20&#xA;&#xA;  #endif // AUTO_BED_LEVELING_GRID&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;  // these are the offsets to the probe relative to the extruder tip (Hotend - Probe)&#xA;  // X and Y offsets must be integers&#xA;  #define X_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER 0 //25&#xA;  #define Y_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER 0 //29&#xA;  #define Z_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER -1.2 //-12.35&#xA;&#xA;  #define Z_RAISE_BEFORE_HOMING 4       // (in mm) Raise Z before homing (G28) for Probe Clearance.&#xA;                                        // Be sure you have this distance over your Z_MAX_POS in case&#xA;&#xA;  #define XY_TRAVEL_SPEED 7000         // X and Y axis travel speed between probes, in mm/min&#xA;&#xA;  #define Z_RAISE_BEFORE_PROBING 4    //How much the extruder will be raised before traveling to the first probing point.&#xA;  #define Z_RAISE_BETWEEN_PROBINGS 4  //How much the extruder will be raised when traveling from between next probing points&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope this help to understand your settings. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have set the values to Zero instead 25 and 29 because I pre defined the testing points manually to 8 and 156; of course the center of the nozzle is moved 25 and 29 mm from the plate center, this avoids collision to X0 and Y0. And I just the level using 4 points once, if your bed is warped so is needed more internal points&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;  #define X_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER 0 //25&#xA;  #define Y_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER 0 //29&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4454" LastActivityDate="2017-03-22T17:57:24.393" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3782" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4047" CreationDate="2017-03-22T20:02:09.020" Score="4" ViewCount="401" Body="&lt;p&gt;My printer just stopped working. It seems like it's working perfectly, but it gives me an error whenever I move the Z-Axis (Error: Printer set into dry run mode until restart) then, the bed temperature appears to be at 293ºC when it's actually at 95ºC.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suspect that the bed wires short-circuited since they got stuck behind the bed when the printer was moving Y-Axis to home (the wires blocked the movement). Since then, the error appeared. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suspect that the controller board could have been harmed by the supposed short-circuit, but despite the error, I can move perfectly any axis; I can heat the bed and the extruder; I can extrude filament; it is just the error which doesn't let me print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Printer:&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;Anet A8 Desktop 3D Printer Prusa i3&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Software:&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;MatterHackers: MatterControl 1.7&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update:&lt;/strong&gt; The bed temperature is stuck at ~95ºC, sometimes ~250ºC, even if I disconnect the sensor wires and restart the printer, so apparently, it's failing to read the bed temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5004" LastEditorUserId="854" LastEditDate="2017-03-22T22:27:34.490" LastActivityDate="2017-05-12T07:12:23.290" Title="Error: Dry mode when moving Z-Axis" Tags="|heated-bed|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3784" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3846" CreationDate="2017-03-23T10:47:35.790" Score="2" ViewCount="1320" Body="&lt;p&gt;My &lt;strong&gt;mono mendel&lt;/strong&gt; 0,0 position is on the left of the bed, when the nozzle is at the position of the green dot in this image.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YQ5aj.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YQ5aj.png&quot; alt=&quot;Mendel mono home position&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would like to move that point to the left a bit, in order to print a slightly larger part (the bed has about a centimeter more space to the left). I know I can just allow negative values but I'd rather not to, for safety reasons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However I cannot find where the offset of that point from the endstops (home position) is declared. There is no offset set in either pronterface or Slic3r, and unless my board came preloaded with different firmware than the one reprappro publishes, the &lt;code&gt;*_HOME_POS&lt;/code&gt; variables in their Marlin repository are all equal to 0.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;// The position of the homing switches. Use MAX_LENGTH * -0.5 if the center should be 0, 0, 0&#xA;#define X_HOME_POS 0&#xA;#define Y_HOME_POS 0&#xA;#define Z_HOME_POS 0&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/reprappro/Marlin/blob/master/Marlin/Configuration.h#L290&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://github.com/reprappro/Marlin/blob/master/Marlin/Configuration.h#L290&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas how I should go about it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6517" LastActivityDate="2017-05-11T17:00:53.647" Title="Resetting the zero position of the X axis on a RepRapPro Mendel Mono" Tags="|marlin|g-code|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3785" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3431" CreationDate="2017-03-23T17:30:28.710" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have spent many hours testing my Anet A8 to resolve the popping issue. The symptoms are similar to yours, Diesel. Both ABS and PLA, different manufactures, good packaging, as well as various sizes of nozzle, are producing bubbles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was experimenting mainly with two variables: nozzle temperature and retraction length. Other related parameters I kept fixed:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Material: ABS&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Nozzle size: 0.5 mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Retraction speed: 45 mm/s&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Travel speed: 50 mm/s&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Print speed: 40 mm/s&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Retraction length&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Originally it was set to 4.5 mm. I found it to be impacting the amount of popping significantly, especially in the range of 0.5 mm to 2.5 mm. The optimal value appeared to be in my case 0.8 mm. A lower value would produce even better results in terms of surface quality, but would also start producing oozing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One important side note is that at the retraction length of 4.5 mm, leaking of the material during idle moves was significant and was becoming even a bigger contributor into gaps in the print strikes (immediately following the idle moves), than popping. This observation is kind of contradictory, but I am making no mistake here. Too large of a retraction apparently may have the inverse effect on leaking/oozing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Nozzle temperature&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Originally was set to 250°C. 260°C produced significantly worse results. 240°C is where I stopped.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Based on some other research, including talking to my friend who successfully uses the same plastic at 260°C, I made the conclusion that the quality of my print head assembly is not perfect, and that it is the main cause of the problem. By finding the perfect retraction/temperature combination I simply mitigated the air sucking in the head, which could be not happening at all if I had used a better quality extruder and nozzle in the first place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6522" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:29:41.667" LastActivityDate="2017-05-21T11:50:34.710" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3786" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3796" CreationDate="2017-03-24T06:27:41.337" Score="4" ViewCount="529" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm having a similar issue to &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/1207/how-to-remove-a-pla-print-stack-to-a-buildtak-sheet&quot;&gt;this one&lt;/a&gt;: I have retrofitted my printer with a BuildTak sticker. I'm printing PLA at 60°C bed temperature - currently using a 0.3 mm nozzle, but I had similar issues with the 0.4mm nozzle before. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I bring the nozzle close enough to the print surface to get a reasonable first layer, I need excessive force to remove the parts afterwards - so much force that I already have damaged the BuildTak in one or two places. If I lower the bed (the physical bed using the screws, not the temperature!) so that the parts come off easier, the first layer is very uneven and it takes 5-6 layers until the layers start to stack onto one another the way they are supposed to. What can I do to influence the adhesion of the printed parts to the BuildTak surface - especially to lower it in a controlled manner without changing the nozzle height?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4620" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T13:00:58.447" LastActivityDate="2021-07-17T02:13:05.653" Title="Lower BuildTak adhesion" Tags="|pla|adhesion|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3788" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-03-24T14:39:31.773" Score="4" ViewCount="411" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been 3D printing as a hobby for a couple of years now, and have always heard how 3D printing is great for prototyping, but once you get beyond 10 or 20 pieces it's just not cost competitive with other technologies.  I just accepted this to be truth, and have even told some of the customers I've gotten through 3DHubs and other marketplaces the same thing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now I'm creating an item for resale and am 3D printing the case.  As I'll need 40 - 50 cases at a time I thought I would shop around for other options.  But I just received some quotes back on injection molding.  The mold price (for half the case) was \$15k, plus \$10 per unit at a quantity of 50 and \$4 per unit at a quantity of 500.  Even in the case of the latter, the cost of tooling plus production is \$34/piece.  3D printing the same part myself costs $7 in filament, and paying someone else to 3D print it cost \$28.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keeping in mind that 3D printing allows me to make changes to the design on the fly and print the exact number I need without having to worry about volume discounts, I now wonder if I've just been repeating a common misconception.  Is 3D printing really noncompetitive for medium (10-500 pieces) production runs?  If so, what makes it noncompetitive, given the extremely high up-front cost of IM?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6545" LastEditorUserId="5" LastEditDate="2018-09-14T00:42:07.770" LastActivityDate="2020-08-06T11:49:51.267" Title="What makes 3D printing noncompetitive for medium production runs?" Tags="|cost|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="3789" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3788" CreationDate="2017-03-24T15:30:57.970" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some small start ups (mainly 3d printing companies) do in fact use 3D printed parts for the production printers they sell. So, at least in some instances, 3D printed parts may be satisfactory for production products. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That being said, other manufacturing methods (such as injection molding) currently have several advantages over 3D printing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Injection Molding&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Pros:&lt;/strong&gt; It can produce parts of different sizes ranging from small, to rather large (like a plastic chair).  It provides superior inter-material bonding, takes only a few seconds to produce a single part, and can huge quantities of parts (possibly millions) in a single week. Typically injection molding is often entirely automated, with few moving parts. Small details can be repeated well and parts can be made with many different polymers. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Cons:&lt;/strong&gt; Some geometries (like a hollow sphere) which can easily be produced with 3D printing, are impossible to produce with injection molds. Start up costs very be high. A typical machine can cost hundreds of thousands to millions of dollars. Mold cavities are costly to produce and require injection molding artifacts to be designed into the part (like ejector pin notches).  Also, the mold produces edge lines on the part where the two cavities meet. Defect trouble shooting can be very complex and the ability to produce satisfactory parts can depend on heat flow (which can be affected by things like the weather). This can require climate control to eliminate to reduce waste in scrap parts due to warping and other malfunctions. Sometimes advanced statistics are required to measure dimensions and detect developing problems too complex to deductively trouble shoot because they stem from a fluid thermodynamic issues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once 3D printing has time to develop further (as injection molding has), we may see it used more and more for production parts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6548" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2017-06-25T05:46:28.990" LastActivityDate="2017-06-25T05:46:28.990" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3790" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3788" CreationDate="2017-03-24T15:34:17.670" Score="8" Body="&lt;h1&gt;TL:DR&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3D printing is great for low quantities of items, but terrible for large quantities of items.  This is a continuous scale and as your quantity grows, the drawbacks of 3D printing become more pronounced.  In your situation, you seem to be dancing in the nebulous zone where there isn't really a good answer as to which production method is better.  It's more of a question of price vs speed.&#xA;&lt;hr/&gt;&#xA;There are several factors that limit additive manufacturing technologies (in this answer I'll just talk about FDM since you're asking about a plastic item) from being practical in large scale manufacturing.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Time&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Compared to injection molding, 3D printing takes a very long time.  An injection mold can make &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WHwTHarf8Ck&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;72 plastic caps in 3 seconds&lt;/a&gt;.  While I don't have a source, I would expect a similar item to take at least 5 minutes to be printed.  In order to produce an average of 24 caps/second, you would need 7,200 3d printers working without down time.  That doesn't take into consideration ...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Labor&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Every 3d printed object needs to be removed from the print bed by hand.  That requires a person to be there ready to remove the item.  It's possible to have &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.3ders.org/articles/20150419-automate-the-removal-and-3d-printing-of-multiple-objects-with-the-echodrive-add-on.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;automated print removal&lt;/a&gt;, but for now I've yet to see it as a standard option on any machine.  An injection model machine can just pop the parts out into a box.  Even with the capability to remove the parts extra labor is still required for 3d printing because ...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Quality&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Injection molded parts are as smooth as the mold they were made in.  While failures still exist even for molded items, their relatively cheap production cost and very quick production time ensure that an occasional failure won't be problematic.  3D printing on the other hand is still prone to &lt;a href=&quot;https://all3dp.com/common-3d-printing-problems-3d-printer-troubleshooting-guide/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;variations&lt;/a&gt; in the final product.  For a few items, it's sensible to hand finish the parts with filing, sanding, or other reductive manufacturing techniques, but for many items this quickly become burdensome. Also, given the long production time compared to injection molding, even 1 discarded product will result in a long time required to produce a replacement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6547" LastEditorUserId="6547" LastEditDate="2017-06-27T12:31:02.117" LastActivityDate="2017-06-27T12:31:02.117" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3791" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3788" CreationDate="2017-03-25T15:54:21.477" Score="6" Body="&lt;h1&gt;Short Version&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3d Printing is generally the most expensive method for building things mainly because it takes a long time to do. Compared to other methods it's by far the slowest. The few machines that can do parts quickly typically have very small build volumes so they're limited to only a few parts. Compared with injection molded parts you can make a dozen parts in a few seconds 3D Printing is closer to a few hours for one or two parts. Unless there is a change in the process or the technology or philosophy of the process 3D printing will always be delegated to small runs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Unspecific Answer&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You implied something in your post that you didn't explicitly ask for which I might be able to help. 3D printing is small scale, Injection molding is a large scale, but you've glossed over the medium scale production methods that might be worth considering given your project. If you're wanting to make small runs (20-500) units, your time could be well spent looking into cast-urethane parts. A mold will run around 200-500\$ depending on manufacturer, complexity, and size of the mold each mold is typically good for about 20 parts and then materials are roughly 20-30\$ for smaller sized parts. One of the more attractive aspects of cast urethane is that the material properties are very comparable to an injection molded part and the surface finish looks fantastic&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my experience, my workflow for a new part design is 3D print a few models to get from revision 0 to something you're confident should work, cast urethane a few batches to get functional field testing completed, and possibly even sell while the injection molding side gets set up. Injection molding takes 5-6 weeks about as a minimum for the first article, 3D printing is a few hours, and cast urethane is 2-3 weeks tops, less if you pay a bit more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;edit&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;Forgot to mention that by using cast urethane as an intermediate you still have the flexibility to change your design without resulting in huge mold redesign costs. Because the mold is only good for about 20 parts modifying you can modify your part and update without incurring huge re-molding costs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5518" LastEditorUserId="5518" LastEditDate="2020-08-05T21:14:18.790" LastActivityDate="2020-08-05T21:14:18.790" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="3792" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3771" CreationDate="2017-03-26T09:34:43.250" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;To try to answer your question, I found these enclosures on &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.3dprintclean.com/store-1/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;3DPrintClean&lt;/a&gt;, by browsing the Ultimaker forum. I'm not sure it fits your needs since you did not give any details about which Ultimaker you have, nor the amount of money you are willing to spend.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6556" LastEditorUserId="854" LastEditDate="2017-05-02T22:45:37.887" LastActivityDate="2017-05-02T22:45:37.887" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3793" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3797" CreationDate="2017-03-26T16:44:21.083" Score="6" ViewCount="549" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a makerbot, and am using their slicer program. The part I am printing has an extremely coarse thread, 5 threads per inch with a 2 mm thread height. The thread face is at a 30 degree angle (15 degrees of overhang)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have printed external threads like this without issue and without support material before for various gardening tools (a flow straightener for example). I'm now trying to print an internal threaded part however the rest of the part needs to have support. I've played with the settings in the makerbot software but can't find a combination that will acomplish  my goal. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm looking for an idea, a setting, or an alternate way of printing the threads without support,  but still have supports for the other sections of the part that I know do need them. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Perhaps there is an alternate software that can do something like this, or is best practice to modify the part to have  weak structural elements to support the extremely overhanging sections that I'll then break off afterwards and print the part with no supports?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5518" LastActivityDate="2017-12-01T15:48:23.550" Title="Printing coarse threads" Tags="|3d-models|makerbot|support-structures|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3794" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3793" CreationDate="2017-03-26T17:43:32.207" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Consider to create an externally threaded part to mate with the internally threaded part, perhaps with a tenth of a millimeter clearance. If possible, configure that part to have minimal structure, making it easier to break away. The externally threaded part will possibly provide support for the portions of the main body while preventing interference with the internally threaded part.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I believe it's not possible to segment a multi-part print for different levels of infill, but if the above fits your requirements, it would be a thin-wall cylinder, thick enough only to support the mating threads. This would allow easier break-away.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An image, sketch, drawing, model, link of your project would make this answer easier or possibly invalidate it completely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastActivityDate="2017-03-26T17:43:32.207" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3795" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3802" CreationDate="2017-03-26T22:28:04.593" Score="4" ViewCount="2262" Body="&lt;p&gt;I replaced the controller board in my Monoprice Select Mini with an Arduino/Ramps setup and compiled an uploaded Marlin 1.1.0-RC8 to run it. I've got most everything calibrated and working with one exception.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tell the printer to home for xyz and then level my bed with a piece of paper then start a print and the nozzle consistently drops too far down into the bed and nothing can extrude. If I adjust the bed and put 1-2mm gap between the nozzle and bed then it prints fine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can't find anything in Marlin to adjust for this and I'm kind of stumped. I'm printing the original cat gcode that came with the printer that should just work fine as it always has and shouldn't have anything that a slicer would put in there to screw things up. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can anyone point me in the right direction?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the output of M503&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Send: M503&#xA;Recv: echo:Steps per unit:&#xA;Recv: echo:  M92 X93.00 Y93.00 Z1097.50 E99.00&#xA;Recv: echo:Maximum feedrates (mm/s):&#xA;Recv: echo:  M203 X300.00 Y300.00 Z5.00 E25.00&#xA;Recv: echo:Maximum Acceleration (mm/s2):&#xA;Recv: echo:  M201 X3000 Y3000 Z100 E10000&#xA;Recv: echo:Accelerations: P=printing, R=retract and T=travel&#xA;Recv: echo:  M204 P3000.00 R3000.00 T3000.00&#xA;Recv: echo:Advanced variables: S=Min feedrate (mm/s), T=Min travel feedrate (mm/s), B=minimum segment time (ms), X=maximum XY jerk (mm/s),  Z=maximum Z jerk (mm/s),  E=maximum E jerk (mm/s)&#xA;Recv: echo:  M205 S0.00 T0.00 B20000 X20.00 Y20.00 Z0.40 E5.00&#xA;Recv: echo:Home offset (mm)&#xA;Recv: echo:  M206 X0.00 Y0.00 Z0.00&#xA;Recv: echo:Material heatup parameters:&#xA;Recv: echo:  M145 S0 H180 B70 F255&#xA;Recv:   M145 S1 H240 B110 F0&#xA;Recv: echo:PID settings:&#xA;Recv: echo:  M301 P26.15 I2.74 D62.35&#xA;Recv: echo:  M304 P231.09 I45.21 D295.34&#xA;Recv: echo:Filament settings: Disabled&#xA;Recv: echo:  M200 D3.00&#xA;Recv: echo:  M200 D0&#xA;Recv: ok&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also wanted to test whether the nozzle is actually moving closer. I did a G28 and manually put a piece of paper's width gap between the nozzle and the bed at all points. Then I started a print with no filament but with the sheet between the nozzle and bed. When it got to temp it homed all the axis and moved the nozzle to the first position. I would expect the paper to maintain the same gap but it tightly presses into the paper. The first gcode move that includes the Z before extruding is :&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;G0 F3600 X42.228 Y46.985 Z0.3&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which you would expect would put even more space between the nozzle and bed for the first .3 layer of filament but it isn't.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I printed directly from the SD Card to hopefully rule out Octoprint running gcode before the print so I really think the culprit is Marlin at this point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6564" LastEditorUserId="6564" LastEditDate="2017-03-28T12:26:13.583" LastActivityDate="2018-07-19T18:32:48.963" Title="Z axis at print is lower than when I home" Tags="|marlin|ramps-1.4|arduino-mega-2650|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3796" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3786" CreationDate="2017-03-27T11:20:11.320" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Try printing with the heated printbed off. Heat makes the pla stick more to buildtak&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4708" LastActivityDate="2017-03-27T11:20:11.320" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3797" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3793" CreationDate="2017-03-27T19:39:16.720" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are some software tools that let you manually design support structures so you can target the areas that need them, and avoid others.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, Meshmixer can be used to add supports into your STL. I believe you still use a separate slicer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some slicers also have the ability to manually add support. I have found that CraftWare and Simplify3D have this kind of feature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5704" LastActivityDate="2017-03-27T19:39:16.720" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3799" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-03-28T15:37:15.300" Score="1" ViewCount="400" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've done a few 3D designs in Sketchup and Fusion 360. Prints were done in PLA on an FDM and an SLA machine that I have access to.  Generally I am quite happy with the results. Now the description of my question. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would like to create a 3D model of the house and yard that my wife grew up in, print it in miniature then assemble it into a snow globe to be given as a Christmas present. Quite a challenge I expect. The final thing does not have to be exact but a fair representation so that she can actually tell that it's her house.  Some specific questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The house is brick, would the brick texture actually be noticeable on the printed model if it is say only 1 to 1.5&quot; on a side with either SLA or FDM? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Same for roof shingles?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Or should I just rely on adding these details artistically in the painting process  ( I will have to find an artist to do all that ) &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Thought on trees/ bushes?  Again I hope to rely on artistic license when designing these parts. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Thoughts on software: &quot;Which would be best to design in?&quot;  It has to be free (or not expensive) since I am not doing this professionally and don't have the money to buy expensive 3D software?  Someone suggested Blender. Fusion 360, Sketchup.  Others?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Thoughts on best printing method ?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A lot of questions I know and I truly appreciate any feedback on any of this.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6588" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-09-14T08:29:51.880" LastActivityDate="2018-09-14T08:29:51.880" Title="Thoughts on designing and printing 3D miniature house" Tags="|3d-models|3d-design|software|print-material|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="3800" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3795" CreationDate="2017-03-28T17:43:44.450" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If nozzle sets lower than it should, after heating up, then you may need to calibrate with heater turned on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another (although less likely) reason can be an incorrect Z steps number. However, if the print, after adjusting the first line height, does well, this should not be the case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fast track solution is to use &lt;code&gt;M206&lt;/code&gt; (something like &lt;code&gt;M206 Z0.3&lt;/code&gt;) command to adjust nozzle offset, in your case Z position. This does not fix the root cause but should allow you to mitigate the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3839" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2017-05-11T18:48:44.007" LastActivityDate="2017-05-11T18:48:44.007" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3801" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3799" CreationDate="2017-03-28T20:02:17.147" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Answering your questions in turn:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;On the scale you're trying for, printing brick with FDM won't show up - you'd have much better results, and could be possible, with SLA. You won't see every brick, but you will see the texture at least.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Same as for brick, You wont see shingles, but you can differentiate that there is a texture difference. If you were to paint it after the fact the color plus the texture will make it clear.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Yup, but both won't hurt.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Doable if they're big enough. SLA would be required I think to make them look good.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;For something like this I'd suggest Blender, if your modelling skills are pretty solid. If not, Fusion-360 would work really well. But that's purely opinion based.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;SLA if that wasn't clear as of yet.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sounds awesome. I think the hardest part on this is going to be the modelling, the structure I'm picturing isn't all that complex so it should be doable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5518" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2017-04-09T15:09:39.000" LastActivityDate="2017-04-09T15:09:39.000" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3802" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3795" CreationDate="2017-03-29T04:16:25.513" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found the issue. When the hotend and bed are at temps for PLA everything works fine but at temps for ABS the Z offset would get all messed up. After a bunch of testing I was able to track it down to a single gcode statment &lt;code&gt;G1 Z15.0 F6000&lt;/code&gt; &#xA;At the higher temps my Z stepper skips steps at that feed rate. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &quot;Custom FDM printer&quot; machine settings I used for my printer in Cura had that statement in it and so did the cat gcode that was on the card from the factory. I changed the feed rate to 200 and was able to print in ABS.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was surprised Marlin didn't have a 'limit the feedrate for Z to this number' setting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6564" LastEditorUserId="6564" LastEditDate="2017-03-29T15:35:28.007" LastActivityDate="2017-03-29T15:35:28.007" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3804" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-03-29T17:34:57.417" Score="1" ViewCount="645" Body="&lt;p&gt;I spent the last days trying to make the best gears I could but they are not &quot;smooth&quot; nor good. I searched at thingverse with &quot;gear&quot; but I see no set of gears. I would like someone to point me a good set of gears (with 5, 10, 15... teeth for example) so I can use this STL file with Google Sketchup.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do you guys know any good matching gears that I could print?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I will be using this gear in a fast spinning matching so it would be nice these gears to be well designed to support some fast moving.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, I think in my case I would like to use gears with this shape (the white gear). Any idea why is this gear design better than the usual?  &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7mHxj.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7mHxj.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6352" LastActivityDate="2018-09-10T11:20:28.490" Title="Best gear STL to print with ABS" Tags="|3d-models|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2017-04-04T11:16:52.093" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3805" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3804" CreationDate="2017-03-29T20:37:11.327" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;This type of gear is known as a &quot;herringbone&quot; gear. A traditional straight-cut gear is strong, but can cause more vibration as each tooth engages and disengages. A helical gear (slanted tooth) reduces that vibration as the tooth engagement is more uniform. However the angle of the teeth causes a sideways force that may be undesired. A herringbone tooth design effectively cancels the sideways forces but gets the uniform tooth engagement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A search for &quot;herringbone&quot; on Thingiverse comes up with many gears of this type.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regarding the quality, if you are not happy with the results of your own design, that's OK - gears are shockingly complex, and people make careers of gear design! However, if you have a good CAD model that just isn't printing well, it's not likely a bad STL.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An STL from a different source is likely to have similar quality with the same slicer/printer setup. You might be able to improve print quality of your design by changing settings on your slicer or adjusting your printer. I'd suggest asking a question with your current setup and specific print quality issues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5704" LastEditorUserId="4927" LastEditDate="2018-09-10T11:20:28.490" LastActivityDate="2018-09-10T11:20:28.490" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="3806" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3554" CreationDate="2017-03-29T23:16:33.240" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is your printer new? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It could be that the factory settings for the step number per millimeter or inch on the &quot;Z&quot; axis stepper motors. I personally have not had this problem however you might want to check out &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps  :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6452" LastActivityDate="2017-03-29T23:16:33.240" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3807" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3804" CreationDate="2017-03-30T23:05:25.930" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As for high speed gear ideas why don't you design your own if there aren't any good ones. I will admit sometimes there will be surprising lack of content in some areas and I dont know what you expect, sometimes you do have to do some things your self to bridge the gaps. Maybe try looking into automobile transmission or even jet engines which use two shafts for high speed compressor and low speed fans. Jet engines spin pretty fast over 35k RPM. They may end up using a planetary gear I would think, the forces are well balanced. But you haven't said the purpose of this gear, is it power transmission on separate parallel axis? Speed reduction/change? In engineering, structurally things which use pointy edges can perform poorly under stress, the stress is highly focused geometrically. Instead if manufacturing constraints and design volume allows it, rounded, chamfered, or filleted edges reduce high stress points. Also adding material distributes loads where possible. Smaller teeth may increase vibration frequency but reduce amplitude. Ideally you would want to minimize the relative velocities of the contacting surfaces to reduce waisted force from friction converting to heat. Also heat can reduce strength and increase wear, decreasing life span of the gear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6548" LastActivityDate="2017-03-30T23:05:25.930" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3809" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3811" CreationDate="2017-03-31T21:18:46.847" Score="2" ViewCount="648" Body="&lt;p&gt;As the title suggests, I am looking to remove nylon that has adhered strongly to my build platform. Mechanical methods (ex. scraping) haven't yielded results, so I was hoping for a solvent or something that would remove the adhered nylon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, the parts themselves remove well enough, but some areas have a bit of nylon that simply persist.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6425" LastActivityDate="2017-03-31T22:48:50.620" Title="How to remove adhered nylon from build platform?" Tags="|build-plate|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3810" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-03-31T21:38:52.067" Score="4" ViewCount="171" Body="&lt;p&gt;I feel stupid for asking, but could it cause issues if the Heat sink/Heater block/Extruder tip can spin freely in a Kossel Delta 3d printer? I went to remove the extruder tip the other day, and noticed that all of the assembly is free spinning. I am new to the 3d printing community.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Clarification:&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's the whole assembly rotating as a single piece. The heater block, heat break/sink and extruder tip are all rotating together, in the effector.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6621" LastEditorUserId="115" LastEditDate="2017-04-05T07:07:40.603" LastActivityDate="2017-05-05T08:01:16.170" Title="Delta Kossel 3d Printer Heatsink issues" Tags="|delta|heat-management|kossel|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3811" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3809" CreationDate="2017-03-31T22:48:50.620" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;One important and missing aspect of your question is what is your build platform? Glass is likely to give you the best results, while aluminum has some risks, depending on your choice of solvents.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My hasty research at first showed Glacial Acetic Acid to be a candidate, but as a very strong acid, it will require some care in use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found a &lt;a href=&quot;http://rfelektronik.se/manuals/Datasheets/solventguide.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;pdf document&lt;/a&gt; with a comprehensive chart of possible solvents for nylon. The above noted solvent (100% acetic acid) lists with an Unsatisfactory result. I read this at first as being unsatisfactory for dissolving, but the correct interpretation is that nylon is unsatisfactory for being resistant to this solvent. Additional notes show nylon will dissolve in this solvent.  I have a bottle of white vinegar (acetic acid) but the panel reads as five percent concentration, almost certainly ineffective for your purposes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are other solvents listed as unsatisfactory, which points them in the right direction for your purposes. A couple of them are in the chlorine family and no reference is made regarding concentration. Chlorine of even weak concentration will attack aluminum very quickly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Despite the weak concentration of the white vinegar, I've dropped a segment of 3 mm nylon to see what happens overnight and may report via an edit here later.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastActivityDate="2017-03-31T22:48:50.620" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3814" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3816" CreationDate="2017-04-01T18:54:27.047" Score="6" ViewCount="2609" Body="&lt;p&gt;Lately I'm having some issues with white PLA.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It sticks nicely to the print bed, but the very last layer of the print comes out really ugly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not a native english speaker, I don't know what is the proper term to describe what I see, so I'm attaching two pictures instead:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4A8Gn.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4A8Gn.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/76KNF.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/76KNF.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you can see, the surface has wrinkles. If you touch it, it feels like a &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ab7vc.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;jaggled surface&lt;/a&gt;. What is causing this? I've never had this kind of issue before with the same PLA roll, what can be the issue?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a prusa-style printer, 45°C printbed, 225°C hotend, 10% hexagonal infill, 30mm/s print speed. The object stays on the surface without warping, I can tell for sure that it isn't detaching from the bed and coming up towards the extruder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It happens only for infill, perimeters are just perfect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What can be the issue here?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5317" LastActivityDate="2018-08-23T21:42:21.813" Title="Why 3d print has an ugly surface?" Tags="|pla|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3815" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3793" CreationDate="2017-04-01T19:44:03.450" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I feel a little ridiculous that I didn't try this earlier, but in the Makerware software you can set a minimum overhang to print support material. I've been working to this point (3 years now) assuming they've been measuring the angle from the vertical, not the horizontal. I was wrong. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The solution that I came up with was to calculate the maximum overhang of the internal threads inside the helix, and then not use breakaway support below that angle. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not the prettiest print I've ever done, but the threads came out useful at least. I'll need to lay with the settings a bit to make sure the part isn't going wonky from the minimal support but as of now it seems to be working well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A better slicer would've made this whole process MUCH easier, and I'm going to look into them pronto &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5518" LastActivityDate="2017-04-01T19:44:03.450" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3816" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3814" CreationDate="2017-04-01T22:51:35.120" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;This appears to be the result of your hot end (nozzle) temperature being slightly too high. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd recommend lowering your nozzle temperature by a few degrees and retrying the print. If the quality improves you're good. If it doesn't improve significantly try lowering a few degrees more. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you lower the nozzle temperature to the point that you start having other adverse effects, try going back to the lowest temperature that works and check your infill and shell settings. The top shell of your part may be too thin given the span (top surface, maximum travel length). i.e. the strands being printed on the top of your part are sagging between your infil hex's, by thickening this part in the slicer settings the next layer on the roof won't sag as much as the previous.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By increasing your number of shells or shell thickness (or roof thickness, i'm not sure on the exact terminology) you could effectively hide the effect you're seeing by thickening this section of your part. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Best guess though is nozzle is a bit too hot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5518" LastActivityDate="2017-04-01T22:51:35.120" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3817" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3814" CreationDate="2017-04-02T15:03:03.623" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;This looks like the air trapped inside the print is expanding, causing wavy surfaces. This can be solved by lowering nozzle temperatures, and turning on the fan.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6452" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-08-23T21:42:21.813" LastActivityDate="2018-08-23T21:42:21.813" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="3819" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3595" CreationDate="2017-04-03T14:00:24.420" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I got the same problem.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Auto-detect baud rate was not working too.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;So I manually tried every baud-rate and finally found one working, for me it was 115200.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6642" LastEditorUserId="6642" LastEditDate="2018-08-13T09:26:46.757" LastActivityDate="2018-08-13T09:26:46.757" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="3820" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3821" CreationDate="2017-04-03T14:15:28.790" Score="4" ViewCount="3333" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm replacing my standard MK3 Aluminium printing bed with a custom sized  bed paired with a silicone heater. I came across a few on Amazon and they all have grades such as 6061, 3003, 5052 etc. I know these mean the composition of the Al alloy and their end purpose but I'm not sure what they mean in terms of being used for a 3D printer. Can anyone here advise me on this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5113" LastActivityDate="2017-04-03T15:20:16.613" Title="What kind of aluminium grade for a heated 3D printer bed?" Tags="|heated-bed|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3821" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3820" CreationDate="2017-04-03T15:20:16.613" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Various grades and alloys of aluminum will have characteristics related to ease of welding, resistance to corrosion, malleability, and other aspects. For a heated bed on a 3D printer, you'd really want to have something resistant to warping and something that can be assured to be planar across the surface, that is, flat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The terminology you'd want to use for your search is &quot;MIC 6 Cast Aluminum Tooling Plate&quot; and the results are many.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From a rather &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.arconic.com/global/en/products/product.asp?prod_id=619&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;comprehensive web site&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Flatness tolerance is maintained within .015&quot; on 1/4&quot;-5/8&quot; thickness and .005&quot; on 3/4&quot;- 4&quot; thickness. Thermal Cycling can be performed up to 800° F  under controlled conditions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You would want to confirm from the seller that the surface has been prepared, as some sites appear to sell un-finished tooling plate, but I've not been able to clarify that. Most appear to provide either no specifications regarding flatness or give a figure such as that above. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastActivityDate="2017-04-03T15:20:16.613" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3822" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3810" CreationDate="2017-04-03T18:00:06.017" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;When assembling the hot end tip, make sure you screw in the extruder tip to the aluminum block first, then screw that assembly to the heat sink fins. On my Kossel, I did it the other way around, and had very poor results. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the whole assembly is spinning, then the clamp screws are either too long and can't tighten properly, or the holes might be stripped, or they're just not tight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And yes, any movement in the hot end can cause problems, since we're dealing with steps as small as .1 mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6646" LastActivityDate="2017-04-03T18:00:06.017" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3823" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3834" CreationDate="2017-04-04T03:13:47.447" Score="2" ViewCount="687" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am facing a problem with my 3D print. Whenever I am printing any object, the print from the top is shifting to the right hand side - it is symmetric at the bottom but not at the top. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Checkout the photo below:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uocCD.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uocCD.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;101hero print&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6654" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2018-09-16T12:48:00.913" LastActivityDate="2018-09-16T12:48:00.913" Title="101Hero 3D Printer - Printed object is tilted" Tags="|print-quality|3d-models|3d-design|ultimaker-cura|101-hero|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3824" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-04-04T10:02:51.553" Score="3" ViewCount="374" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cura 2.4 reports that the (printer-dependant) G-Code mode prevents the &quot;Flow&quot; (extrusion rate adjustment percentage) setting from being available. Why? I am using an Ultimaker 2+. Is a firmware update required?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know the &quot;Flow&quot; can by dynamically adjusted on the 3D printer (either in materials or while printing).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am asking because I have small holes (1 mm) that seem to slice fine but get filled so the extrusion probably is not that optimally tuned. I suspected reducing the material rate would improve this but changing it on the printer (97%) did not yield noticable results and below that it looked worse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6657" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2019-08-31T08:21:08.400" LastActivityDate="2019-08-31T08:21:08.400" Title="Flow Settings in Cura 2.4 for Ultimaker 2+ not available (suspected overextrusion filling small holes)" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|extrusion|ultimaker-2|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3825" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3823" CreationDate="2017-04-04T15:37:38.243" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The usual cause here is a loose belt on the X or Y drive, leading to hysteresis and a shift in the perceived origin of the system.  Try tightening the belts and adding tensioners.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2191" LastActivityDate="2017-04-04T15:37:38.243" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3826" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3827" CreationDate="2017-04-04T16:42:23.250" Score="4" ViewCount="842" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've never gotten a 3D printer, nor do I know very much about them, but I'm thinking of buying a delta 3D printer kit for around $450. When I looked online of some disadvantages of Delta printers I found that they typically don't have Bowden extruders. I'm wondering what are the advantages of a Bowden extruder and should I spend more money in a 3D printer just to get one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6662" LastActivityDate="2017-09-29T06:04:56.257" Title="Delta 3D printer extruder?" Tags="|extruder|delta|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3827" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3826" CreationDate="2017-04-04T17:55:04.867" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;My FLSUN Kossel 3D Delta printer ($224) has a bowden extruder. It works really well too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main advantage of having one is that it reduces the mass of the hot end. That means less inertia, and it's easier on the driver motors as well. All this leads to (hopefully) greater and more precise control at the extruder tip, and, best of all, faster printing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6646" LastEditorUserId="6646" LastEditDate="2017-04-04T18:09:16.933" LastActivityDate="2017-04-04T18:09:16.933" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3833" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="61" CreationDate="2017-04-08T01:35:42.360" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Another approach is to put mouse ears on all the corner parts, that you clip off the print afterward.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.makerbot.com/media-center/2011/02/25/mouse-ears-defeat-corner-curling-monster&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Mouse ears defeat corner curling monster&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1397" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-07-29T09:29:24.913" LastActivityDate="2018-07-29T09:29:24.913" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="3834" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3823" CreationDate="2017-04-08T01:59:36.553" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You appear to have a couple of issues here, &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First off your nozzle appears to be a bit hot for your filament (you can see this be the drooping and sagginess of the layers on the outer shell)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second issue is it appears as though your belts are loose. You can tell if your belts are loose if your parts seem to be shifted in one way. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Third issue (maybe). You may want to try slowing down your nozzle speed slightly. The faster the extruder moves, the more inertia that is generated which in effect makes your belt act as a spring and will cause it to bounce along the axis while it's printing. Slowing it down will result in your belt acting more like a rigid member and help to clean up the outer layers of your print. Also, it's easier on your belts. The downside is that your parts will take a bit longer to print. In my experience, parts that look great but take a bit longer are well worth the wait.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5518" LastActivityDate="2017-04-08T01:59:36.553" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3835" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="61" CreationDate="2017-04-08T17:48:56.280" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;In answer to the question &quot;why do the corners lift when using ABS&quot;, the answer has to do with the coefficient of  thermal expansion (or contraction).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;ABS, compared to PLA, has a higher coefficient meaning that as the temperature of you part changes the more the part will deform. With 3d printing, the material extruded from the nozzle is quite a bit higher than the build chamber. As the layers print and the extruder moves up, the lowest layers are cooler than the layers above, shrinking as time goes on. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For angular parts this is a larger problem than for round parts. With angular parts (parts with sharp edges in  X and Y axis) as they cool, the internal stresses induced by cooling increase and can't be resolved in just the xy axis and cannot move into the build plate.  The part then lifts up to reduce these stresses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A brim or raft, is a thin layer that ideally cools at a constant rate through out which will effectively increase the bonding of your part to the build plate. Abs to abs bonding being stronger than abs bonding to whatever your build plate material surface is. For most parts this is sufficient to keep good adhesion while your part builds and cools. Raises the temperature of the build plate also reduced the stress in the brim/raft by reducing the difference in temperature.  This is why those are the go-to solutions for stopping abs from lifting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your part is large enough or the angles are quite sharp in XY, (think of a five pointed star for example). Then the brim raft won't necessarily be enough to prevent the warping. That's where &quot;helper discs&quot; &quot;mouse ears&quot; etc . Are helpful. These, when dispersed around the outer sharp corners, increase the surface area of the raft and also reduce the angles of the thermal contraction due to cooling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note, that while I'm talking about ABS specifically, this will apply to any and all materials if the part geometry, or material properties have the same issues.  Nylon for example is also a pain to print for similar reasons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The final thing to say is that all if this is for nothing if your build plate isn't both flat and level.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5518" LastActivityDate="2017-04-08T17:48:56.280" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3836" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3526" CreationDate="2017-04-08T18:04:04.050" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not sure if this is the reason, or just A reason, but thermocouples create a pretty small voltage for a given temperature, whereas thermistors have a larger (easier to read) change in resistance. I would expect that a thermocouple would require slightly more sensitive instrumentation to read it than a thermocouple. And seeing as space requirements aren't that significant on a 3D printer using the easier to read thermistor, despite its size, seems like the better option.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I prefer thermocouples myself, since they don't need calibration and effectively lifetime guaranteed (aside from mechanical failure). However almost every project I've ever worked on, the Sparkies always seem to push for thermistors rather than thermocouples.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5518" LastActivityDate="2017-04-08T18:04:04.050" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3837" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3843" CreationDate="2017-04-10T13:07:30.243" Score="2" ViewCount="152" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;First of all I apologize if this stack exchange site isn't the proper spot for CNC questions but I do not see any other ones that are close. If the community feels this is too far off topic then just let me know and I will remove this question.  Even though this is for a CNC machine, the same issue could exist for a 3D printer. I do know this is very specific to the TAIG CNC.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Currently I have the TAIG CNC machine. Recently it has been getting bound when going up in the positive Z direction. It will go down no problem but when going up, at certain points the motor will make a high pitch noise like it normally does when it hits a Z extreme. At these points if I manually try to crank (with the controller off) it is very hard to move up. This indicates that it is a mechanical problem. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I took apart the Z axis and understand that there is a jib inside. I do understand how the jib works, tightening and loosening the top and bottom screws to move the wedge. I have tried with the wedge all the way up (biggest gap) and all the way down, along with in between in small increments. It will go up when the jib is all the way up but if I press down with my hand barely then it gets bound so I am thinking it is something other than the jib? I am not sure which other parts I can adjust or would get stuck. I did follow the directions on youtube of setting the brass insert that is attached to the threaded rod, where I tightened it to the point of where the motor couldn't move and then backed off a little bit. Has anyone had binding troubles like this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am a pretty new member on this forum so I apologize if I missed anything but feel free to ask any questions too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6725" LastActivityDate="2017-04-11T12:24:28.660" Title="TAIG CNC - Z axis getting bound" Tags="|mechanics|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3838" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3839" CreationDate="2017-04-10T19:01:24.930" Score="3" ViewCount="741" Body="&lt;p&gt;Why does the Ultimaker 3D Printer has a Heater + Heater transfer plate (aluminium) + Glass?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wonder why a glass plate, and if is possible to remove the glass and print directly in the aluminium plate adjusting the heating.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://ultimaker.com/en/products/ultimaker-3&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Link to the ultimaker&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pictures:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hBsTd.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hBsTd.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Ultimaker view&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uf2vc.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uf2vc.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;PCB Heater view&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6731" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2019-08-31T08:19:36.080" LastActivityDate="2019-08-31T08:19:36.080" Title="Why does the Ultimaker 3D Printer has a Heater + Heater transfer plate (aluminium) + Glass?" Tags="|heated-bed|ultimaker-3|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3839" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3838" CreationDate="2017-04-10T22:23:02.530" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Printing directly onto aluminum is something I've never seen before, likely due to the fact that PLA (and other materials) do not adhere reliably to aluminum. Instead, many opt to use blue tape, kapton tape, PEI, buildtak/commercial build surface, or an additional build surface, such as glass. When heated, clean glass can be directly printed on. The use of a glue stick, wood glue, isopropyl alcohol, the above adhesion aids, and others can help adhere your part better hot or cold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can you remove the glass, add any of the above to the aluminum plate, and print on that? So long as it's a clean, flat surface, yes. But it'll be more work for you to replace or clean the build surface, as you won't be able to simply remove the glass and replace it. You're not gaining much by taking out the glass. A slightly faster bed heat-up, perhaps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for &lt;em&gt;why&lt;/em&gt; Ultimaker went with an aluminum transfer plate, that is a slightly more &lt;a href=&quot;https://engineering.stackexchange.com/questions/14722/why-does-the-ultimaker-3d-printer-has-a-heater-heater-transfer-plate-aluminiu/14725#14725&quot;&gt;engineering&lt;/a&gt; oriented question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="691" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:51:48.717" LastActivityDate="2017-04-10T22:23:02.530" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3840" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3838" CreationDate="2017-04-10T23:07:48.913" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/thermal-conductivity-d_429.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;this page&lt;/a&gt;, heat transfers more evenly across an aluminum build plate than with just glass. But as Kevin pointed PLA adheres better to glass because it doesn't flex as much as aluminum under heat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The link above shows that aluminum has a much higher thermal conductivity at 205 &lt;sup&gt;(&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/conductive-heat-transfer-d_428.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;W/(mK)&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/sup&gt; vs glass at 105 &lt;sup&gt;(W/(mK))&lt;/sup&gt; at 25 &amp;deg;C &lt;sup&gt;(77 &amp;deg;F)&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because of this conductivity difference, you may find that it takes longer to heat the glass plate, but it should heat more evenly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="98" LastEditorUserId="98" LastEditDate="2017-04-11T14:32:02.733" LastActivityDate="2017-04-11T14:32:02.733" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3841" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3848" CreationDate="2017-04-11T10:05:07.007" Score="7" ViewCount="446" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm considering removing the driver motor from the extruder assembly, and placing it on a stationary mount point instead, and then using a flex-shaft type connector from the motor to the extruder assembly to actually drive the extruder. The motivation for this change is to reduce the overall weight of the extruder driver and hot end assembly, allowing for quicker movement of the carriage on it's associated axis(one of X,Y).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would it be better to run a pair of drivers (one for each direction) to manage reversing the filament pressure or would it be better to use just one driver and reverse the motor as usual?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="150" LastEditorUserId="150" LastEditDate="2017-05-04T07:10:40.453" LastActivityDate="2017-05-04T07:10:40.453" Title="Weight Reducing Design Change for Extruder Driver" Tags="|extruder|fdm|extrusion|extruder-driver|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3842" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3907" CreationDate="2017-04-11T10:41:05.527" Score="4" ViewCount="1365" Body="&lt;p&gt;In a discussion about motors with a friend who used to work in the robotics industry, he told me that he despised stepper motor systems, as every stepper based system he had worked on required a bunch of hacky software fixes to make the system perform to the required level.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;He said that servo motor based systems had their own foibles, but at least they could generally be tuned out and you always knew that if the encoder said you were in a given place then you would be (to within the constraints of the backlash compensation).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because of this, I was wondering if there were any options for using brushless DC motors + encoders + drive electronics instead of steppers + drive electronics. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="150" LastEditorUserId="150" LastEditDate="2017-05-04T07:13:10.330" LastActivityDate="2017-05-04T07:13:10.330" Title="Reprap variants with servo motors rather than stepper motors?" Tags="|stepper|servo|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3843" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3837" CreationDate="2017-04-11T12:24:28.660" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;So inside the Z axis is a brass component that is connected to the threaded rod (lead screw). This brass component has 3 screws and depending how tight / loose, determines how much it will bind up. You of course don't want it too loose otherwise the enclosure will &quot;jump&quot; off of the track at times.  In my case, the two screws were too tight. The way I determined how tight to go was taking the entire Z track off of the back, tightening both screws just to the point of binding and then backing off 1/2 turn on both.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6725" LastActivityDate="2017-04-11T12:24:28.660" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3844" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3842" CreationDate="2017-04-11T14:43:38.083" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think using these technologies is possible, and may be better than stepper motors, but by using these you loose the main advantages of the steppers : the simplicity and the cost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you use steppers, you assume your motors are strong enough to don't loose any step, and you &quot;just&quot; command them. Steppers are not so expensive and are compacts, so your 3D printer is &quot;simple&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you use separated motors and encoders, you can do better job, but your 3D printer will be a lot more expensive, harder to tune, and harder to program.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6737" LastActivityDate="2017-04-11T14:43:38.083" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3845" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3841" CreationDate="2017-04-11T16:11:31.733" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're talking about a common 3D printer stepper motor and driver, then one driver is perfectly capable of driving the motor both forward and backward.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strike&gt;The flex tube setup you describe sounds like a &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bowden_cable&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Bowden extruder&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strike&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1050" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2017-05-03T07:47:59.093" LastActivityDate="2017-05-03T07:47:59.093" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3846" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3784" CreationDate="2017-04-11T16:17:54.560" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think the cleanest option is to move the X-endstop back about a centimeter to match, and then increase the size of the bed in both Slic3r's and the printer's settings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could also try using &lt;a href=&quot;http://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M206.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;M206&lt;/a&gt; to set a persistent offset after homing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1050" LastActivityDate="2017-04-11T16:17:54.560" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3848" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3841" CreationDate="2017-04-13T00:00:30.837" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Very cool idea, &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One motor would definitely be more than capable of producing the required torques even through a flexshaft connector. For any normal sized 3D-printer the torques required, and the speeds you'll need for rapid response are well within the capabilities of any off-the-shelf stepper motor. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just a note on the idea though, with a normal, 'rigid', connection there is essentially no winding or unwinding, and only the backlash between the gears and the filament to consider, and that is effectively zero. With a flex-shaft though, the stack-up of twists and flexing will be much greater. The system will require more rotations at the source to effect the same amount of torque at the end effector as the flex shaft flexes and bends under the load. For tiny torques with short flex shafts, this wont be an issue as filament pressure is pretty minimal. But if you scale up this project or start working at much higher speeds, you may run into some issues with this design. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have no idea how big or fast you'd need to be working at for this to begin to become a problem. I'm imagining pretty big though. Just something you might want to keep in mind if you try turning this into a huge, super fast 3D-printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5518" LastActivityDate="2017-04-13T00:00:30.837" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3850" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-04-13T08:12:55.093" Score="1" ViewCount="266" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just made my anet a2, and when I hit auto-home it goes off the board makes a loud clacking sound going down a bit (under the heat bed but off to the side). Any suggestions?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6756" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2019-08-31T08:18:55.457" LastActivityDate="2019-08-31T08:18:55.457" Title="My anet a2 auto-homes incorrectly" Tags="|printer-building|desktop-printer|anet-a2|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3851" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3850" CreationDate="2017-04-13T10:14:35.543" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your limit switches are not working properly - they should always hit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do the following steps:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Move axis in all possible directions, both positive and negative;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check limit switch wiring;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Limit switch output.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6759" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2017-05-02T22:47:33.863" LastActivityDate="2017-05-02T22:47:33.863" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3852" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3431" CreationDate="2017-04-13T10:36:19.990" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The temperature is too high or your keep your filament in open for days. So that filament observe water from air do the following steps:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;pla 190-220&#xA; abs 220-240&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If temperature in range then bake your filament at 50-60 temp.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6760" LastEditorUserId="132" LastEditDate="2017-05-15T11:45:51.950" LastActivityDate="2017-05-15T11:45:51.950" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3853" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5165" CreationDate="2017-04-13T14:23:07.440" Score="23" ViewCount="71958" Body="&lt;p&gt;The backstory: I'm installing a pigeon net in my home. Because of the shape of the opening I'm installing the net in and the material on the sides it's difficult to anchor the net using the normal means but I can print clips that will hold the net in place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The clips will be outside and will be exposed to the weather and direct sunlight, the weather here is relatively hot (up to 30C) with a lot of sun most of the year and rain in the winter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I only have PLA, ABS and PETG available, anything else will take too long to arrive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't care about the parts changing color and mostly I don't care about them deforming a little bit - only about breaking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the parts have to be replaced after a year I'm ok with it, less then that will be annoying, longer will be better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, under those conditions, which of the 3 materials is more durable?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="170" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2018-09-14T13:29:56.857" LastActivityDate="2020-06-05T21:50:54.507" Title="Which is more durable to sunlight/weather - PLA, ABS or PETG" Tags="|print-material|material|outdoors|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3854" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3855" CreationDate="2017-04-13T14:41:27.853" Score="8" ViewCount="1686" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know that for printing some materials like the carbon-fiber filled PLA it's recommenced to use a steel nozzle since it'll wear-out a standard brass nozzle quickly. Is there any reason to prefer using a brass nozzle for 'simple' plastic-only filaments instead of just printing everything with steel?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6762" LastActivityDate="2020-07-09T04:52:39.263" Title="Is there any reason *not* to use a steel nozzle for printing all materials?" Tags="|filament|print-quality|nozzle|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3855" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3854" CreationDate="2017-04-13T18:13:35.093" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Thermal conductivity of brass is approximately twice as better than steel (not stainless). Given that the size of nozzle is relatively small, it should be able to transfer enough heat for a medium-speed prints at least.&#xA;I have printed PLA and ABS using &amp;quot;steel&amp;quot; nozzle (brand of steel unknown) at the speed around 80 mm/s without any visible differences compared to brass.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, an ideal nozzle (I see) is made of tempered bronze with polished inner channels. Bronze is known to have better friction coefficient and tempered one should be enough to resist carbon-type filaments more efficiently.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3839" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-07-09T04:52:39.263" LastActivityDate="2020-07-09T04:52:39.263" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="3857" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3853" CreationDate="2017-04-13T22:22:48.977" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;PLA would be a non-starter for outdoor use as it's biodegradable and can breakdown in sunlight. Albeit slowly, but won't be useful for long term project. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;ABS would be a good choice for longevity, as it can last in outdoor situations for quite a while. Its glass transition temperature is above 100 degrees celsius so it'll last in most climates. As for strength ABS is one of the better choices out there, also it's slightly softer than PLA meaning it will flex before breaking, PLA is much more likely to shatter. ABS is well known for warping while printing though. Not a huge problem though, if you're used to printing with it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PETG not a bad choice either. It has a glass transition temperature around 80-90°C. So if you're building in a hot place with direct sunlight with some reflection, you could have deformation issues, though not that likely. It is stronger than ABS and it's also easier to print (less warping issues). PETG is also supposedly 'food safe' meaning if the outdoor animals start pecking at it, it'll probably not kill them... I wouldn't recommend trying to taste it though. Finally PETG is a bit closer to PLA in terms of brittleness so it may shatter before flexing. ABS is less brittle than PETG.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it were me I'd go with ABS despite its issues with warping while printing. If you're newer to printing, then probably better to go with PETG.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5518" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2017-05-02T22:47:01.283" LastActivityDate="2017-05-02T22:47:01.283" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3858" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2665" CreationDate="2017-04-14T21:43:08.537" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have any programming background at all, consider OpenScad. It is a functional type of programming language that lets you do a lot of things quite easily without art skills.  OpenScad skills are useful for building customizable things on Thingiverse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.openscad.org/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Here is a place to start&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1397" LastActivityDate="2017-04-14T21:43:08.537" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3859" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-04-15T01:58:53.287" Score="3" ViewCount="1209" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a piece, which I need to cut into two different pieces, see image 1.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Image 1&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FjxIy.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FjxIy.png&quot; alt=&quot;Block cut into two pieces&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then I need to make &lt;em&gt;interlocking joints&lt;/em&gt; or similar, see image 2. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Image 2&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dyhYM.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dyhYM.png&quot; alt=&quot;Two pieces with an interlocking joint&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I do that automatically, using Solidworks or another program?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's an &lt;code&gt;*.STL&lt;/code&gt; file so I can easily manipulate all parts without any errors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4230" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2017-05-02T16:03:24.000" LastActivityDate="2017-07-01T16:58:37.660" Title="How to join pieces automatically using interlocking or similar?" Tags="|3d-design|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3860" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3859" CreationDate="2017-04-15T11:54:28.253" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not qualified to advise regarding Solidworks, but can suggest a process and concept from which you may be able to adapt to your software.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you have the two pieces currently in STL form, it makes things only slightly more difficult. Consider to align them parametrically so the faces contact and the edges are coincidental. The block STL will appear as a single cube, in the example you've provided.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Create and place a mating cylinder piece in the desired position as you've shown in the second image. It is a common feature of many 3D modeling programs to be able to perform a subtraction of one part from another. It is equally common to be able to merge two parts into a single manifold part.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Save the file containing the three parts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Select either block and the cylinder. You can delete or otherwise hide or deselect the unused block. Perform a subtraction on the remaining pair. Save this file under a different name.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Reload the three parts file.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Select the other block and cylinder, perform a union of the pair. Save this file under a different name.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rather than saving the three parts in a file, one can frequently save the joined or subtracted part and perform an undo until the three parts return. This is a faster more convenient method.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have performed the above steps in Meshmixer and know that it can be done in Blender, if one is skilled in these programs. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've performed an internet search for &quot;perform boolean subtraction solidworks&quot; and found multiple results for this process. One link references the &quot;cavity&quot; feature for subtraction. I did not search for boolean union and leave this as an exercise for the reader.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Consider also to plan for this activity in the future by leaving the block intact, unsliced, place the cylinder, perform the boolean action, then slice it as desired. The sequence of saves and/or undo actions will be different from above, but may be easier than re-aligning a previously sliced &quot;block&quot; or item.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastActivityDate="2017-04-15T11:54:28.253" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3861" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4015" CreationDate="2017-04-15T19:48:06.630" Score="7" ViewCount="716" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking for some advice, rules of thumb, or models for how to design parts for layer bonding strength.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As an example part, lets assume a circular beam in bending (tall cylinder). Depending on how the part is setup on the build platform (tube axis aligned parallel to Z, or setup to lay in the X-Y plane) the layers and internal structure will then be different depending on the orientation chosen at the time of building. Does/has anyone done any investigation to what roles these factors will play on simple shapes like a solid cylinder?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ideally, with a CNC'd, injection molded part the total strength of a solid part is quite easy to model (mathematically) for strength and flexibility. However, with a 3D printed part the orientation makes the isotropic material properties effectively anisotropic, as layers don't bond perfectly, different cooling rates, and a host of other reasons. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ideally I'd love to find a 'simplified' model that can be applied to hand-calculations to come up with rough approximations to part strength and bending. My guess is that these parts would be modeled something similar to an ABD matrix, similar to composite materials, but that's just a guess.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5518" LastActivityDate="2018-09-14T08:47:27.200" Title="FDM layer bonding strength" Tags="|3d-models|3d-design|print-strength|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3862" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3782" CreationDate="2017-04-16T01:40:40.090" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Try checking the wiring on your motherboard and all of the connections to your steppers. When I first had my printer, the z-axis didn't work because a wire was loose. I took apart the control box on my Di3 and made sure everything was firmly connected, and after that everything worked fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6384" LastActivityDate="2017-04-16T01:40:40.090" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3863" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3864" CreationDate="2017-04-16T15:19:56.283" Score="2" ViewCount="1841" Body="&lt;p&gt;The overall goal is to create a print of the liberty bell.  No clapper is needed.  The support beam is not needed.  I am just looking to mimic the outside shape of the bell.  After an application of Google-fu I found this image.  It has been cleaned up and cropped a bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HTg2W.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HTg2W.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In OpenScad the surface function was applied to the png to generate a height model.   I subtracted out a few cubes, and eventually got it down to a layer of about .1 height.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My Evil (pun intended) plan is to get it down to a 2d model.  Then by shifting a copy of model from itself, and subtracting the two.  That should leave just the curve.  Then rotate_extrude the curve to generate the actual bell at the desired thickness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I see the problem coming. If the model is layered down to zero height it will vanish. Leaving me nothing to rotate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So on to the question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Is there any tool or technique to turn the image into a 2d openscad object or failing that is there another way to approach the problem?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0joh6.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0joh6.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The direction that fred pointed me at is viable. I didn't use the actual image shown here, but a manually generated one from OpenScad.  As a proof of concept the technique works well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1397" LastEditorUserId="1397" LastEditDate="2017-04-16T20:05:17.283" LastActivityDate="2017-05-02T22:47:17.187" Title="Is there a technique for turning an image into a 2d model?" Tags="|2d|openscad|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3864" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3863" CreationDate="2017-04-16T15:52:51.100" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;As you are already familiar with OpenSCAD, consider to use the &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikibooks.org/wiki/OpenSCAD_User_Manual/3D_to_2D_Projection&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;projection() function&lt;/a&gt; to accomplish your goal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you allow for an interpretation that one can cast a shadow of the part on a surface below, it becomes a 2D representation of the part. This is effectively how projection works in OpenSCAD.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that the part image below is centered in x, y, z and the cut/projection action takes place at the z = 0 plane:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7USA0.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7USA0.png&quot; alt=&quot;sample model image&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the function is applied to this model, the result is a non-contiguous 2d image:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/COw50.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/COw50.png&quot; alt=&quot;projected cut image&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the cut parameter is ignored or set to false, the image which results is effectively an orthogonal shadow of the entire object, rather than a selected slice:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ffOe7.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ffOe7.png&quot; alt=&quot;flat shadow image&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It gets better, of course. In OpenSCAD, the translate, rotate and scale functions apply. One can tip a model over, resize it, spin it around, combine with the cut parameter and get any combination of 2d image from the original model:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cU1sN.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cU1sN.png&quot; alt=&quot;rotated model image&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HlXSF.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HlXSF.png&quot; alt=&quot;shadow rotated model&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's important to note that OpenSCAD does provide non-zero thickness to these projections when rendered, or maybe when previewed. I always get those two swapped around. As your objective is a 2D result, you may be able to select from PNG (save as image) or Export as DXF or SVG.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Re-reading your post, I also missed part of a more useful answer. Once you have the profile you desire, you can use the &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikibooks.org/wiki/OpenSCAD_User_Manual/2D_to_3D_Extrusion&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;rotate_extrude function&lt;/a&gt; on the profile you generate. Despite the non-zero thickness, it uses the zero-thickness aspect to create the model from that function.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That aspect of the answer is left as an exercise for the reader, as the options are many and results can be complex.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastActivityDate="2017-04-16T15:52:51.100" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3865" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3863" CreationDate="2017-04-16T16:58:41.827" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Two options:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use &lt;code&gt;TRACE2SCAD&lt;/code&gt; (&lt;a href=&quot;http://aggregate.org/MAKE/TRACE2SCAD&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://aggregate.org/MAKE/TRACE2SCAD&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;For the more adventurous: Dig up the old pull-request for the suggested &lt;code&gt;trace()&lt;/code&gt; module: &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/openscad/openscad/pull/1110&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://github.com/openscad/openscad/pull/1110&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6785" LastActivityDate="2017-04-16T16:58:41.827" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3866" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-04-16T18:54:14.833" Score="7" ViewCount="963" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am doing laboratory experiments and need to print some components.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am working with different aqueous (water) solutions containing sulphuric acid (H&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt;SO&lt;sub&gt;4&lt;/sub&gt;), hydrochloric acid (HCl), and hydrogen peroxide (H&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt;O&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt;), separately and in combination. The pH of the solutions are in the range 0 to 7. Temperatures don't exceed 40° Celsius.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In another application we have aqueous solutions containing high concentrations of FeCl&lt;sub&gt;3&lt;/sub&gt;, HCl and in some cases H&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt;O&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt; at temperatures of up to 180° Celsius.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which 3D printing filament materials can you recommend for these applications?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6786" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2018-08-18T18:25:45.513" LastActivityDate="2020-09-09T13:52:31.143" Title="Filament material for chemical application" Tags="|filament|material|filament-choice|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3868" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3866" CreationDate="2017-04-16T19:50:16.597" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are two issues you have here, one is temperature stability and the other is chemical reactivity of plastics. I can't help you with the chemistry side, but I can help with the temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Application 1 (Temp &amp;lt; 40 °C)&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any FDM plastic will perform reasonably well under these temperatures. I would suggest trying a Nylon, PETG or a PolyCarbonate filament as I know these are more resistant to acids than PLA or ABS. As far as strength of the parts, all FDM plastics will work well&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Application 2 (Temp &amp;gt; 180 °C)&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This temperature range is above the glass transition temperature of the PLA, ABS, PETG and Nylon are all well below 180 °C and therefore aren't worth considering. Your best option is PolyCarbonate, or PolyCarbonate-ABS which are both fairly high (roughly 140-150 °C). However, are both below your minimum temperature threshold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My conclusion is to try a polycarbonate sample and see how it reacts to the chemicals you're working with, though it doesn't look hopeful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For Chemical reactivity, I did some Google-fu and found a few links that look helpful for PolyCarbonate:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.perspex.co.uk/Perspex/media/Media/Technical%20Library/Chemical%20Resistance/Polycarbonate-Rod-and-TubeChemical-Resistance.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Chemical resistance polycarbonate&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.calpaclab.com/polycarbonate-chemical-compatibility-chart/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Polycarbonate Chemical Compatibility Chart&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5518" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:29:41.667" LastActivityDate="2018-08-17T13:38:41.250" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="3872" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-04-17T14:12:03.163" Score="4" ViewCount="127" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a reprap printer with 0.3mm nozzle. It prints quite well, I am really surprised with quality of all the surfaces and the general precision of the parts printed. BUT I HAVE a problem: when making (for example) a 10mm x 10mm x 10mm cube with a 2.8mm diameter hole from top to bottom (to fit a screw) after I print it gets a size of 3mm diameter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know this is related to extrusion width but cant the slicer software (I am using s3d) know that it is using a specific extrusion width and compensate for that in order to get the diamter right?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;OBS: this printer is supposed to get 0.05mm precision.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6352" LastActivityDate="2017-04-22T15:11:39.263" Title="Difficulty getting good precision" Tags="|reprap|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3873" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3872" CreationDate="2017-04-17T14:46:10.823" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's a generally accepted fact that FDM/FFF printers will have &lt;a href=&quot;https://innovationstation.utexas.edu/tip-design/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;deviations when it comes to holes and perimeters&lt;/a&gt;. Typically, holes print smaller than designed and external surfaces end up larger than designed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In your case, it seems to be the opposite: the hole is too big. It could be that you're just printing too big overall. You might want to make sure that your printer is printing the 10mm X/Y dimension in you example correctly. If it's too big, part of it may be just the typical oversized perimeter, but some of it might be due to incorrect firmware X/Y 'steps/mm' or extrusion like you mentioned.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See also: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.deltarap.org/printing-undersized-holes/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&quot;Are you printing undersized holes?&quot;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6795" LastActivityDate="2017-04-17T14:46:10.823" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3874" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3876" CreationDate="2017-04-17T15:16:58.367" Score="6" ViewCount="1637" Body="&lt;p&gt;What does the pink color in Slic3r preview mean? Yellow is my model, green is support, and pink is..?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the pink color is some kind of warning, how do I fix it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2PIRU.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2PIRU.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Illustration from preview&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6778" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2017-05-01T00:29:17.273" LastActivityDate="2017-05-01T00:29:17.273" Title="What do the pink colors in Slic3r preview signify? If it signifies a problem, how do I fix it?" Tags="|slic3r|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3875" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3874" CreationDate="2017-04-17T15:28:48.553" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Having had direct experience with Slic3r, I can offer up this information. Your model is composed of bottom layers, top layers, outside layers, infill, rafts, brims and perhaps something I've missed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The program provides for color coding of these features. In the case of your image, the pink represents a top layer, but may also represent a type of infill, depending on &quot;context.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Consider to slice the model, select the preview tab, which you have showing here, then using the slider control to the right of the image window. As you move it from bottom to top, you can observe the construction of the model and each feature as it appears, layer by layer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastActivityDate="2017-04-17T15:28:48.553" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3876" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3874" CreationDate="2017-04-17T15:55:53.070" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;In slic3r preview, salmon (pink) represents infill, yellow represents perimeters, and green represents support material, including skirt and brim.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4922" LastActivityDate="2017-04-17T15:55:53.070" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3877" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-04-17T19:42:03.587" Score="2" ViewCount="1991" Body="&lt;p&gt;Whenever I try putting the filament through the nozzle it does not go through. I have searched everywhere online and have found nothing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6756" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2019-08-31T08:22:42.870" LastActivityDate="2019-08-31T08:22:42.870" Title="Anet A6's filament not feeding through the nozzle" Tags="|filament|prusa-i3|extruder|pla|anet-a6|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="3878" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3877" CreationDate="2017-04-17T19:55:57.760" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;My first step would be to cut the filament at a bit of an angle.  This will help the filament enter the extruder correctly.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're still having trouble, you may have a clogged nozzle.  This article by Lifewire -&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.lifewire.com/3d-printer-extruder-nozzle-clogged-2289&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;3D Printer Extruder Nozzle Clogged? Here Is How To Unclog It&lt;/a&gt; has some good info.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've also heard stories about the Bowden Tube (the PTFE tube that guides the filament from the extruder to the hotend) becoming warped or melted in cases where the printer's temperature control went awry.  This is rare as PTFE doesn't melt until 320°C.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6547" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2017-05-05T18:54:26.253" LastActivityDate="2017-05-05T18:54:26.253" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3879" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3863" CreationDate="2017-04-18T04:00:29.720" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could have done that with OpenSCAD, there are instructions for extruding. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally, I'd just do a 1 altitude copy with &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1981938&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Image 2 STL 2 Heightmap Mesh Converter Generator&lt;/a&gt;, then rotate in OpenSCAD. It's called &lt;code&gt;rotate_extrude()&lt;/code&gt; and is used for seashells.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In MeshLab you can use &lt;em&gt;Laplacian Smooth&lt;/em&gt; to depixelate/antialias it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6803" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2017-05-02T22:47:17.187" LastActivityDate="2017-05-02T22:47:17.187" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3880" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3872" CreationDate="2017-04-18T14:46:59.473" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a common problem with many different types of 3d printers. When ever you print something the physical object will never be the exact same size as it is in the computer. However, you can get it to be very close to what you need. By tweaking certain things you can get the sizes almost perfect. It could be something slight like your stepper motors are mis-calibrated even a little bit. The distance between the build plate and the extruder could be off causing your print sizes to vary. Also the temperature of your extruder and your build plate could be affecting your overall size after printing. How long your print takes to cool and what temperature it is at at when it prints can affect sizes of your print.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;This link could be of some assistance:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;https://ultimaker.com/en/community/11526-problem-with-correct-size&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6815" LastActivityDate="2017-04-18T14:46:59.473" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3881" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3877" CreationDate="2017-04-18T14:53:11.350" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Many printers have a problem with inserting filament into the extruder. Cutting it at an angle is a huge help. It is also very possible that you have a cog or a bad extruder nozzle. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This link could be of some help: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/groups/prusa-i3/topic:7469&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Extruder is not feeding&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6816" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2017-05-02T12:26:41.180" LastActivityDate="2017-05-02T12:26:41.180" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3882" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3041" CreationDate="2017-04-18T14:59:30.817" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is a huge problem with any linux distributions and Nvidia drivers. I have tried countless times to get that driver to work but it crashed my systems time after time. If your slicer works with the default driver i would not try to change it. If it doesn't then you may have to go to windows where the driver is guaranteed to work. I know this is not the answer you are looking for but unless you can code a new driver to work for Linux thats the only solution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6817" LastActivityDate="2017-04-18T14:59:30.817" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3883" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3585" CreationDate="2017-04-18T15:39:04.747" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You have not stated the version of Marlin you are using. I will assume we are discussing the latest Marlin 1.1 RC8.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is no longer any &lt;em&gt;Z_PROBE_DEPLOY_HEIGHT&lt;/em&gt; but in earlier Marlin versions it did not function as you think; it was used to signify the amount of Z travel to execute prior to Z probe deployement. This is to ensure available space for servo-mounted, sled, or other types of &quot;stowed&quot; probes.  This was not a limit to the Z travel, but the amount of Z travel to always execute before begining homing.  If a printer without &lt;em&gt;Z_MAX_ENDSTOP&lt;/em&gt; is left at maximum travel position, using non-zero &lt;em&gt;Z_PROBE_DEPLOY_HEIGHT&lt;/em&gt; could crash a bot into the Z maximum end position.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In these previous versions of Marlin, the homing height was computed by a combination of the above constant adding and subtracting to/from some others, which has since been replaced by the simpler and singular &lt;em&gt;Z_HOMEING_HEIGHT&lt;/em&gt; (which works indpendant from the new &lt;em&gt;Z_CLEARANCE_DEPLOY_PROBE&lt;/em&gt;):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;//#define Z_HOMING_HEIGHT 4  // (in mm) Minimal z height before homing&#xA;(G28) for Z clearance above the bed, clamps, ...&#xA;&#xA;#define Z_CLEARANCE_DEPLOY_PROBE   10 // Z Clearance for Deploy/Stow&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The absolute value of the maximum bed positions are used in Marlin as sanity check to ensure no axis moves greater than this amount in one movement in either positive or negative direction:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#define Z_MAX_POS 200&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your probe does not function correctly, no ficticious &lt;em&gt;Z_MIN_WHILE_PROBING&lt;/em&gt; will prevent a faulty probe from causing a head crash into the bed, so it is not implemented, allowing the &lt;em&gt;Z_MAX_POS&lt;/em&gt; sanity check to prevent the Z axis stepper from continuing to run indefinitely during a fauly probe condition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your &lt;em&gt;Z_MIN_WHILE_PROBING&lt;/em&gt; were implemented, if the printer were powered off (or Marlin crashed, etc) with the head at any Z distance greater than &lt;em&gt;Z_MIN_WHILE_PROBING&lt;/em&gt; there would be no mechanism to begin a print on the next poweron, since Marlin will never move in the negative Z axis except during G28 probing and after probing completes successfully.  The only way to recover in this case would be for someone to continually attempt to both home the printer then power-cycle, moving the head &lt;em&gt;Z_MIN_WHILE_PROBING&lt;/em&gt; closer to the bed each iteration. This would be an unacceptable user exerience.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Further, if &lt;em&gt;Z_MIN_WHILE_PROBING&lt;/em&gt; were implemented, the only percieved safety measure it would add is that during probe failure, the Z stepper would crash into the bed and continue to run for only &lt;em&gt;Z_MIN_WHILE_PROBING&lt;/em&gt; stepper rotations instead of &lt;em&gt;Z_MAX_POS&lt;/em&gt; rotations.  Regardless, the bed would be impacted so there is hardly any additonal safety added and a stepper driver should not overheat or cause any more damage (other than what was already done to the bed) in a single &lt;em&gt;Z_MAX_POS&lt;/em&gt; length of rotations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For more piece of mind during homing, you may use the &lt;em&gt;Z_MIN_PROBE_ENDSTOP&lt;/em&gt; feature with a normally-closed limit switch wired to an available pin on your control board:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;// Enable Z_MIN_PROBE_ENDSTOP to use _both_ a Z Probe and a Z-min-endstop on the same machine.&#xA;// With this option the Z_MIN_PROBE_PIN will only be used for probing, never for homing.&#xA;//&#xA;//#define Z_MIN_PROBE_ENDSTOP&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then use the &lt;em&gt;Z_MIN_WHILE_PROBING&lt;/em&gt; feature to move the head above the &lt;em&gt;Z_MIN_PROBE_ENDSTOP&lt;/em&gt; home position to perform probing.  This will ensure that the printer will crash for only &lt;em&gt;Z_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER&lt;/em&gt; Z stepper rotations if the probe malfunctions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#define Z_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER 0   // Z offset: -below +above  [the nozzle]&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In summary, to prevent the head from crashing into the bed, you must ensure your Z probe is functioning correctly :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5906" LastActivityDate="2017-04-18T15:39:04.747" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3884" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4020" CreationDate="2017-04-18T23:28:24.900" Score="3" ViewCount="319" Body="&lt;p&gt;I apologize if this is in the wrong section, but it seems relevant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am an absolute noob at 3D printing, but recently my need for a specific, small part intersected with access to a 3D printer at work (Zortrax M200), so I figured now was a good opportunity to get into printing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am designing a clamp for smaller can capacitors that will hold them upright from a mounting surface.  I would like the capacitors to snap into the clamp, but I am struggling to find information on how wide the opening to the clamp should be.  It clearly needs to be smaller than the diameter of the clamp, but I'm not sure how much smaller it can be without snapping the clamp arms.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a rule of thumb or general guideline for this type of geometry?  I am using Z-ULTRAT, which is some proprietary filament made by Zortrax.  It seems to be similar to ABS in terms of strength properties, but stiffer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't have an image at the moment, but I can provide one tomorrow when I have access to the part files.  The best analog I can think of is a LEGO figure's hands.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: Per requests for additional information:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I am not sure what is considered a &quot;thin&quot; wall; currently, the clamp walls are 2mm thick at the thinnest point (where the push-in opening is).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I would like the walls to be just flexible enough to allow the cap to be seated without breaking - it is more critical that the cap is not loose in the socket.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The clamp is not going to be subject to repeated stress cycles - by the time the cap needs replacing, it's likely I'll need to print a new clamp as well.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;With my estimations for cooling, I do not expect the clamp to see temperatures above 100C.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit 2:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Based on the link in the comments below, I came up with the following design:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6vJ0A.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6vJ0A.png&quot; alt=&quot;Clamp&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The little nubbins in the back fit into the &quot;neck&quot; at the bottom of the capacitor to provide some positive lock.  220 degrees of surround with 4mm thick arms - I think this should work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6822" LastEditorUserId="6822" LastEditDate="2017-04-19T14:53:42.937" LastActivityDate="2017-05-09T12:14:47.353" Title="Snap-in clamp geometry" Tags="|3d-design|print-strength|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3885" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3884" CreationDate="2017-04-19T05:02:56.600" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am sure someone much smarter will be able to point you towards datasheets and maths equations that will tell you exactly what you could/can't do, however, I would say it depends on a few things:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Material - some materials have more give/flexibility, others have less. Depending how hot you expect the caps/surrounding components to get may also influence choices.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wall thickness - Are you just after a 'thin walled' print, or something more solid. Thinner walls tend to be more flexible.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Reusability - are you going to snap the cap in once or twice, or thousands of times?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would hazard a guess that about 210-220 degrees of &quot;surrounding&quot; would be enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can you try it and see? Or do you only have one shot?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6736" LastActivityDate="2017-04-19T05:02:56.600" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3886" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3888" CreationDate="2017-04-19T13:05:37.113" Score="4" ViewCount="1478" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am creating a 3D printed part which will act as an attachment between a plate (actually a strain gauge) with two M2.5 bolts and a 2kg load with a single M4 bolt. I wouldn't be happy with tapping a screw thread into the print itself so I want to try embedding the nuts into the print itself - so I'll pause the print at the right layer and then insert the nut and, hopefully, the print will resume.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm wondering is it worth also including washers? It's a major pain because, while a nut can be captive in a hex space, a washer is circular. So it needs to be glued down on insertion in case it rotates while the printer is printing on top of it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a 2kg load I don't believe the nut will attempt to pull through the part but there isn't a whole lot of support between the bore hole and the edge of an M2.5 nut though, only about 1mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: I'll add an image of my initial design. The strain gauge is one of a set pulled out of a weighing scales (from Lidl, €5.99. You can buy each separately on the internet for 20 euro, so I saved 74 euro!). The gauge itself is mounted on the narrow &quot;neck&quot; of the gauge. The whole block will drop into a holder that grabs the outer edge of the gauge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Bdelf.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Bdelf.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6827" LastEditorUserId="6827" LastEditDate="2017-04-21T12:15:47.383" LastActivityDate="2017-04-21T12:15:47.383" Title="Embedding nuts and washers into print" Tags="|abs|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3887" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3894" CreationDate="2017-04-19T13:36:54.377" Score="4" ViewCount="2430" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had this idea for bulky parts for just printing the shell (PLA) then pouring in some kind of filler in to make up the bulk/strength.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Printing bulk .2mm at a time line by line is slow and subject to warping!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I though precision print a shell and fill it with 'something' - has this been done by anyone? What is a good something to use?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yours hopefully!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6829" LastActivityDate="2017-04-20T11:57:15.670" Title="Printing shells and pouring filler" Tags="|filament|quality|warping|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3888" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3886" CreationDate="2017-04-19T13:39:09.607" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It could depend on how well your printer-filament type combination can bridge.  If you can generate bridges wider than the washer diameter, then print not only the hex recess but a disc recess for the washer, then print over both.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However,  my preference would be to redesign the part so that the washer&amp;amp;hex nut are on the far side of the part so that you don't need to deal with printing over&amp;amp;around them. This has the added advantage that you can replace the nut if it ever gets worn or stripped. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2191" LastActivityDate="2017-04-19T13:39:09.607" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3889" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3890" CreationDate="2017-04-19T15:29:40.200" Score="6" ViewCount="597" Body="&lt;p&gt;So when my Prusa I3 is heating up, a small bit of filament is coming out of the nozzle, forming a small string at.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the printing starts, this results in a small plastic ball on the bed, impacting the overall printing process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I avoid this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6820" LastActivityDate="2017-04-28T13:52:01.113" Title="How can I avoid that a small bit of filament sticks out of the nozzle during heating?" Tags="|filament|prusa-i3|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3890" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3889" CreationDate="2017-04-19T16:32:20.090" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;On my Kossel Mini I programmed it to go to the edge of the bed and purge a small amount of filament which creates a dot.  I purge enough to get the dot to stick to the bed and then go on with printing, when the head moves the dot stays attached and usually pulls excess material off the nozzle.  This can be added to the &quot;Starting G-Code&quot; section of your slicer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="233" LastActivityDate="2017-04-19T16:32:20.090" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3891" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3889" CreationDate="2017-04-19T16:35:37.183" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;I normally print a skirt. This acts as a quality check for: flow rate; bed adhesion; bed level; and proper zero position in the Z. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4922" LastActivityDate="2017-04-19T16:35:37.183" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3892" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3887" CreationDate="2017-04-19T16:44:08.300" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Or you could use a second head to do low-density infill with very thick layers, like a 1.5mm nozzle and 1.2mm layers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4922" LastActivityDate="2017-04-19T16:44:08.300" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3893" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3887" CreationDate="2017-04-19T21:52:24.867" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not exactly the same, but MakerBot Industries is making improvements to their programs by allowing users to do away with standard infill practices (patterned infill). Their approach is to treat infill similarly to how they treat outer support structures, the &quot;infill&quot; only exists in the interest of supporting roofs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.makerbot.com/media-center/2017/03/20/introducing-makerbot-minfill&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Check out MakerBot's article about it&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This method achieves the same time-savings that you describe in your question, but will not necessarily provide as much structural integrity, depending on your approach.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="98" LastActivityDate="2017-04-19T21:52:24.867" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3894" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3887" CreationDate="2017-04-20T11:57:15.670" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've looked into doing something similar to this before and love the idea, never had the chance to follow  through on it yet. This is sort of a hybrid method between cast molding and 3D printing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The accepted answer to a question I had a while back had some very good points by fred_dot_u&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/3720/post-processing-fdm-for-strengrh&quot;&gt;Post processing FDM for strengrh&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Short version, Epoxy is a good option but you may have to consider heat generated from it. Urethane is another really good option (cast urethane is a pretty standard process). Chem-Eng isn't my area of expertise but there is a huge range of material options out there that can be mixed as two parts. I think there are enough options out there right now that you can choose your material properties you need and then select the material from there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You  could also consider going the chopped-fiber composite route. (carbon, glass, etc) and then combine with whatever the appropriate resin is for those materials. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I see the most difficult part of this is getting the shells to print properly. When I had looked into doing this, I considered modeling my part then hollowing it out completely. Then going back into the hollow part and designing in minimal internal structures for the purpose of supporting the thin-walled shell model. Printing that, and then drilling and filling the part after the fact. This approach I see as being a good option however the location of the drill points would be critical otherwise you could get voids as your fill material is injected in. And, the additional modeling time wouldn't be insignificant, however the saving I expected would come from having a ridiculously strong part, with complex geometry and be significantly cheaper than even a cast-urethane part.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you get some good results, please post a link to them! This is a huge interest of mine!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5518" LastActivityDate="2017-04-20T11:57:15.670" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3895" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3886" CreationDate="2017-04-20T12:11:50.547" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There isn't any structural issue with having it allowed to rotate. If you were to print the part without the washer embedded and then put it on afterwards the washer would still be free to rotate. Friction from clamping would hold it in place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ideally you want your washer to be in contact with your nut to properly spread out the loading of the bolt compression to a larger area (the purpose of a washer). If you put the part between the nut and the washer then the washer is effectively acting as a spacer and your part is being loaded only where the nut contacts it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5518" LastActivityDate="2017-04-20T12:11:50.547" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3896" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3886" CreationDate="2017-04-20T14:05:29.757" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If your nut will be exposed, you can simply insert it into the printed cavity and then seat it in place by heating it with a soldering iron.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4922" LastActivityDate="2017-04-20T14:05:29.757" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3897" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3886" CreationDate="2017-04-20T17:14:38.893" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've had good luck with just leaving a hex-shaped hole in the print, and press-fitting in the nut afterwards. You'll want the axis of the bolt to be along the z-axis, and to use a fair amount of infill and shells. I usually use PLA, so YMMV slightly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may also want to consider your strain gauge setup carefully. If you're doing something like making a hook out of the ABS and the plate is acting as a lever arm, you need to make sure the lever arm length is the same every time, or your calibration will be wrong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6479" LastActivityDate="2017-04-20T17:14:38.893" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3900" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3901" CreationDate="2017-04-21T14:31:08.510" Score="0" ViewCount="54" Body="&lt;p&gt;I changed my original HICTOP controller for one which actually has some fuses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried to print a part last night - the resultant print looks significantly bigger.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do you need to recalibrate the stepper per unit after you've changed your controller?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4408" LastEditorUserId="26" LastEditDate="2017-05-02T12:29:24.563" LastActivityDate="2017-05-02T12:29:24.563" Title="Parts printing out bigger after changing controller" Tags="|diy-3d-printer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3901" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3900" CreationDate="2017-04-21T15:12:41.217" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A quick search for your specific controller brought up the following link:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://reprap.org/wiki/HICTOP_Prusa_i3&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;hictop wiki page&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;in which a reference is made that some printers were shipped with incorrect firmware, specifically in error by a factor of six. If your prints are about six times larger, this may apply to you. The same page contains a link to the firmware.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should also be able to &quot;look inside&quot; the firmware using any number of programs providing terminal access to the controller. Pronterface is one, Simplify3D (not free) is another. I'm fond of using OctoPrint, but it requires some &quot;gymnastics&quot; to install.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you've installed your selected software, open the terminal feature and type M503 to display the current settings. You may have to turn off some automatic terminal display features, as some controllers will repeatedly send data to the screen, causing inconvenient scrolling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I attempted to locate the correct code sequence for your printer, with limited success. Consider to scan over the wiki page for the appropriate information and correlate it to your specific controller and printer:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://reprap.org/wiki/G-code&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Firmware reprap codes&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'd want to confirm a specific M-code to change the stepper figure to match that which is for your printer. I've done my extruder steppers recently, which is M92 for my controller. My quick scan of the codes in the above link shows M350 might be the one for you, but don't take my word on it, get a confirmation from another source specific to your printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastActivityDate="2017-04-21T15:12:41.217" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3902" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-04-21T15:53:52.980" Score="2" ViewCount="2380" Body="&lt;p&gt;I mean 3D forms like these? In a small scale (height: 1-2 cm, width: 0.5 cm).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Yd8Cl.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Detailed 3D form#1&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Yd8Cl.png&quot; alt=&quot;Detailed 3D form#1&quot; title=&quot;Detailed 3D form#1&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qV4Np.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Detailed 3D form#2&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qV4Np.png&quot; alt=&quot;Detailed 3D form#2&quot; title=&quot;Detailed 3D form#2&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to keep all the form's details.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it is possible, what printer do you advise? How much does it cost to print one piece like that in terms of ink? And what is the most permissive software for this kind of printing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6846" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2018-09-16T12:33:17.700" LastActivityDate="2018-10-02T16:58:18.470" Title="Is it possible to 3D print sharp objects with high details? And how?" Tags="|print-quality|software|print-material|post-processing|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3903" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3902" CreationDate="2017-04-21T17:33:27.017" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Best option for something like this would be to use an SLA printer. They can do sharper image detail compared to FDM style printers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That being said, printing something like this poses its own set of challenges. In order to print a part, some surface needs to be in contact with the built platform, and depending on which surface chosen, you will end up with having some amount of overhang, or undercut. Not an issue in and of itself as these can be supported with support structures. For the size that you're looking at printing though, removal of the support material will be a bigger challenge. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for costing of this, that's not something that this forum is used for, but these structures don't look absurdly difficult to print. If you were to contact a local print shop, or check on Google for an online print house, they will be able to give you costing on printing these. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5518" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2017-05-27T04:55:18.003" LastActivityDate="2017-05-27T04:55:18.003" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3904" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3905" CreationDate="2017-04-21T21:01:33.690" Score="10" ViewCount="21512" Body="&lt;p&gt;What are the &quot;magic numbers&quot; people refer to regarding print resolution on the Monoprice Select Mini?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6851" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-12-10T06:28:53.060" LastActivityDate="2020-12-02T17:59:12.303" Title="What are the &quot;magic numbers&quot; on a Monoprice Select Mini?" Tags="|monoprice-select-mini|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3905" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3904" CreationDate="2017-04-21T21:01:33.690" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &quot;magic numbers&quot; are optimal values that work particularly well for the layer height.  Michael O'Brien derived these numbers by reverse engineering the &lt;a href=&quot;https://hackaday.io/project/12696-monoprice-select-mini-electro-mechanical-upgrades/log/44772-x-y-z-a-motors-stepper-driver-investigation&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;mechanics of the Z-axis stepper motor&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using these values as your layer height will generally improve your print quality over using round layer heights such as 0.15, 0.2, or 0.25 by eliminating quantization errors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To see an example of this, print a copy of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:763622&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;3DBenchy&lt;/a&gt; at 0.15 and 0.175.  On the 0.15, you will see some wavy patterns on the curved bow portion compared to the 0.175.  This is the result of inexact rounding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Layer Height (mm)&#xA;0.04375 (results may vary)*&#xA;0.0875&#xA;0.13125&#xA;0.175&#xA;0.21875&#xA;0.2625&#xA;0.30625&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6851" LastEditorUserId="6851" LastEditDate="2017-04-27T22:01:02.877" LastActivityDate="2017-04-27T22:01:02.877" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3906" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3872" CreationDate="2017-04-22T03:18:03.890" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;For one thing, the entire part generally shrinks, as it's printed (at whatever precision of nozzle location) as molten plastic, and then cools and solidifies.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given that you are getting a bigger hole in the finished part, I'd start by measuring the part's actual overall outside size, as printed (is that 10mm, or might it be 10.5 or 11mm?), and suspect some calibration tweaks are needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the outside of the cube is actually 10mm, then you may simply need to find the right fudge-factor for hole sizing - if 2.8 is becoming 3, you might need 2.65 to get 2.8 as printed - or 2.63, or...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively, plan for drilling when a precision hole is needed, and print a deliberately undersized hole with a thick shell so it can be drilled out precisely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6853" LastActivityDate="2017-04-22T03:18:03.890" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3907" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3842" CreationDate="2017-04-22T03:40:53.553" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can get &quot;stepper replacement&quot; servo drives that supposedly put all the needed control in the drive, and accept ordinary stepper inputs. Those should make the servo-drive a &quot;drop-in&quot; option on anything that uses stepper drives.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, I've seen an affordable CNC router system based on steppers turned into a much more expensive system based on servos, and I still have the &quot;obsolete&quot; stepper version, as the servo based system is MUCH more expensive and I could not keep up with the &quot;upgrades&quot; and never would have bought it at the price it now goes for. I'm in fact considering changing that to a reprap control system (still as a router, not as a printer, as I currently think.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given some practical limits to printhead speed in additive 3D printing based on the material solidifying, there may not be a lot of benefit in the considerable added expense of servos. They can move faster, but how much of that will translate to actually printing faster? How fast can you melt and pump plastic and have it stay where you put it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6853" LastEditorUserId="6853" LastEditDate="2017-04-23T19:28:55.873" LastActivityDate="2017-04-23T19:28:55.873" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3908" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3872" CreationDate="2017-04-22T15:11:39.263" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Simplify3D has a feature that makes holes a little bigger or smaller (for adjusting tolerances).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't remember what it's called, I think it's something-offset (if someone can help me with this in the comments I'll update the answer).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's possible your silcer is set to enlarge the holes and the printer is just fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="170" LastActivityDate="2017-04-22T15:11:39.263" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3909" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3914" CreationDate="2017-04-23T17:10:04.950" Score="-3" ViewCount="251" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've done &lt;em&gt;some&lt;/em&gt; research on this matter however I cannot find any clear answers.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How does a SolidWorks CAD file get 'converted' into a file format suitable for 3D printing, in detail?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6867" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-10-14T23:31:06.720" LastActivityDate="2018-10-14T23:31:06.720" Title="How does a SolidWorks file get converted to be 3D printed?" Tags="|print-quality|file-formats|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2018-10-25T10:43:42.977" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="3910" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3911" CreationDate="2017-04-23T17:30:35.137" Score="4" ViewCount="2024" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm having an issue where the first layer of my support structures isn't sticking on the edges and causing the print to (eventually) fail.  Any ideas on how I can fix it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm using Slic3r.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XD4AX.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Photograph of first printed layer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XD4AX.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Photograph of first printed layer&quot; title=&quot;Photograph of first printed layer&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4378" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2017-05-01T17:49:40.023" LastActivityDate="2018-07-14T13:49:44.253" Title="Having trouble getting first layer support to stick" Tags="|slic3r|support-structures|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3911" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3910" CreationDate="2017-04-23T18:21:43.590" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are many things you'll need to check and/or confirm to ensure that you will have a good bond to the bed. The first is to confirm that you are using a genuine Prusa printer as it appears in the photo. Having built one recently makes it easier for me to guess that is the case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Have you performed the bed calibration sequence? The manual provides a series of steps which results in a zig-zag pattern of filament being placed on the bed, while the z-height is adjusted from the panel. You want to have a filament trace that is only slightly squished onto the bed, not flattened so much that it's cutting into the PEI and not so high that it's nearly cylindrical.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bed must be of the correct temperature for the filament selected. If in doubt, raise it five to ten degrees C. I recently assisted with the aforementioned printer that had a peeling problem and the bed temperature had to be raised to 70°C from the &quot;standard&quot; 55°C generated by Slic3r.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is critical that the bed be clean as well. Denatured alcohol is recommended, with application of a clean cloth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your photo is somewhat out of focus, making it difficult to determine if the brim is being created at an excessively high z-level, which will cause peeling. The main body of the print, also out of focus appears to be heavily flattened, but that could be an artifact of the photo.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reflections on the bed appear to indicate that some gouges in the surface exist. If your PEI is damaged, you will have the problem you described. I've seen videos in which the bed is not quite as gouged and was refreshed with very light sandpaper or very light steel wool or both. Of course, after using such material, clean the surface thoroughly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I understand the PEI that is applied by the manufacturer is quite thin and can be further damaged if too much pressure is applied while refreshing. It is far better to apply too little pressure if you plan to perform this task.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Consider to read through the manual and address all of the calibration aspects of the printer to establish a base point for the problem you are experiencing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastActivityDate="2017-04-23T18:21:43.590" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3912" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3909" CreationDate="2017-04-24T07:17:26.800" Score="-4" Body="&lt;p&gt;When you convert it to, let's say, a .stl (3d object file) file, I believe it converts the geometry of the parts into binary and saves the sets. These matrices can be used by the software of 3d printer in order to give the appropriate Trajectory for the extruder. And then the motion of the extruder is 'divided' amongst the available stepper motors and it generates equations of motion for the motors in electrical signals. &#xA;That's what I've learned so far by using a 3d printer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6729" LastActivityDate="2017-04-24T07:17:26.800" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3913" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3918" CreationDate="2017-04-24T07:32:44.170" Score="-3" ViewCount="162" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been using a 3D printer - Makerbot Replicator 2, since almost a year now. I'm quite good at operating and solving somewhat difficult problems with it. &#xA;However I'm looking forward to build a 3D printer of my own, during the Summer break of 40 days. &#xA;Where's the best way to look for a start (except for Instructables) and build it in my given time? &#xA;And how should I proceed? &#xA;Also what will be its approximate cost? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PS: I don't know coding but I'm a really proficient designer and a good knowledge of electronics too. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6729" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-07-06T10:27:28.987" LastActivityDate="2018-07-06T10:27:28.987" Title="Best way to start building a 3D printer of my own" Tags="|diy-3d-printer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2017-04-26T07:40:44.767" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3914" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3909" CreationDate="2017-04-24T12:12:26.223" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Any and all CAD files can be converted to STL (Standard Triangle Language). In this file format, surfaces are parsed to be combinations of triangles. For example a flat rectangular surface gets represented as two triangles in the same plane. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As the complexity of the solid increases more triangles are required to adequately approximate the surface. Flat surfaced models are simpler to convert and will have smaller file sizes whereas curved solids will be more complex and larger file sizes (for the most part). The dimensions of your part do not translate to the STL file technically. The STL version of your part is based on unit vectors and a scaling factor is included in the file. So none of the vertices of the STL file are dimensioned, but the file is then scaled appropriately when opened.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you think of something as simple as a large diameter cylinder, you would need a relatively large number of triangles to approximate the curved surface. With a low number of triangles the curved surface would come out quite blocky, however increasing the resolution and the number of triangles used the blocky surfaces begin to approximate a curved surface. In theory if you had infinite resolution your curved surface would be exactly represented. The resolution of the file is something that you can choose when you save the file in STL format. The higher the resolution the more triangles will be required and the file size will also increase. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The specific algorithm on how to complete this task will be proprietary to each CAD software, however if you're just curious on the math involved or the general process of converting them, I did a quick google search for &quot;STL format algorithm&quot; and found several useful links on the first page that could be useful. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are a few links to a few sites with good information:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The TL;DR version: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.cs.cmu.edu/afs/cs/academic/class/15294-s15/lectures/stl/stl.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;15-294 Rapid Prototyping Technologies: STL Files and Slicing Software&lt;/a&gt;;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;A Published paper on the algorithm: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.researchgate.net/profile/Okan_Topcu2/publication/259843304_A_method_for_slicing_cad_models_in_binary_stl_format/links/0deec52fd258c68deb000000.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;A method for slicing cad models in binary stl format&lt;/a&gt;, and;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;A rehash of what I wrote above: &lt;a href=&quot;https://all3dp.com/what-is-stl-file-format-extension-3d-printing/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;STL File Format for 3D Printing – Explained in Simple Terms&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5518" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2017-05-02T12:26:34.893" LastActivityDate="2017-05-02T12:26:34.893" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3915" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3962" CreationDate="2017-04-24T12:35:13.747" Score="1" ViewCount="3691" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an MK8&lt;sup&gt;Makerbot(?)&lt;/sup&gt; extruder on my HICTOP branded printer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem with the E3D hotend is that the heatbreak is shorter and doesn't protrude through the top of the heatsink. Therefore I can't mount it to the motor mount.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/E8pbo.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/E8pbo.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Photograph of printhead&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4408" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2019-09-30T10:18:22.183" LastActivityDate="2020-07-19T06:17:44.940" Title="E3D-v6 hotend on MK8 extruder" Tags="|e3d-v6|makerbot-mk8|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="3917" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3749" CreationDate="2017-04-24T21:51:00.040" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Slic3r is available &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/alexrj/Slic3r&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;on Github&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think the section you'd be looking for &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/alexrj/Slic3r/blob/bc35063a57788a23381b9e789289c27110fe07b7/xs/src/libslic3r/Fill/Fill.cpp&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;is here&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6878" LastActivityDate="2017-04-24T21:51:00.040" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3918" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3913" CreationDate="2017-04-24T22:11:19.380" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Building a printer isn't that difficult due to RepRap (meant for rapid prototyping) but there are many factors that decide the price, difficulty, and abilities of a custom build.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using a Melzi board (a glorified Arduino Mega with motor drivers) helps a great deal and Repetier firmware is built to integrate many different types of hardware so those take a lot out of the engineering part. While you might not have to learn C++ to configure the firmware, it helps a great deal. There are plenty of sites that walk you through everything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After that, lead screws, GT2 belts, steppers, sensors, extruder, wires and the frame can be found very reliably from dozens of sites online.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cartesian style printers are much easier to build than delta type printers. There are countless numbers of custom builds that people document and put online. Check out as many as you want and draw ideas and inspiration from what they do. Listen for problems and solutions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And one of the most important things: there is a difference between cheap and inexpensive. Make sure you understand that. You don't want to burn your house down just to save a few pennies.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastActivityDate="2017-04-24T22:11:19.380" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3920" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3577" CreationDate="2017-04-25T12:43:26.410" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you want to have a specific infill density, you can design the infill yourself as part of the solid model. (Note I use these two methods to design parts for strength, but it's basically the same thing that you're looking at doing)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have two methods for doing this as follows (I use Solidworks, but the features exist with most CAD software)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Method 1&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Step 1&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Design the part for the geometry that you'd like as you usually would. (check the volume of the part)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Step 2&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hollow out your part and set your wall thickness to the desired dimension. In solidworks, you can use the shell command for this. (check the new volume of your part)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Step 3&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Create a pattern for the print orientation  you want and make the thickness of the pattern set to a variable you can easily change. For example if you want a hex pattern, then create a hex pattern that covers the footprint of your part.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Step 4&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Extrude your pattern from the bottom surface to the upper surface.&#xA;(depending on how complex your part is you may have to iterate between steps 3 and 4 to fill the part completely, but that's half the fun).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Step 5&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Close the part off. The Shell feature hollows out a part, and removes most of one flat surface. You just need to go back in and close this surface off again once you're done, generally with a single extrude.(check the volume of your part again)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Step 6&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now you can compare the volumes of your part, this may require you to change the thickness of the hex pattern, and may require several iterations to get an exact density that you want.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This process wont necessarily work for every part you come up with but it's a good start for fairly blocky parts. It's also relatively quick and easy to do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The second way is as follows&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Method 2&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Step 1:&#xA;Create your part as usual and save as a unique file (lets call it &amp;quot;Solid file&amp;quot;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Step 2:&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Create hollow the part out and save as a unique file (lets call it &amp;quot;shell file&amp;quot;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Step 3:&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Create a new part that is your hex pattern, but instead of modelling the walls that will be in your final part, create the hex voids as a solid. Save this as a separate unique file ( lets call it &amp;quot;Void profile&amp;quot;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Step 4:&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Create a new part and import both the &amp;quot;Void Profile&amp;quot; and the &amp;quot;Solid File&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Step 5&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Subtract the &amp;quot;Void Profile&amp;quot; from the &amp;quot;Solid File&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Step 6&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Import the &amp;quot;Shell file&amp;quot; and merge it with the result of step 5&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This process I like a bit more, but it takes longer, creates more files and is a bit messier I think. However it gives you a lot more control over how your voids will work and you can delete sections of the voids if you want different parts to be more solid that others.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're using solidworks shell model and you have very tight features sometimes it gives you errors, and you may need to suppress small features and then add them back in after all of this. Just a heads up, it can be a bit of a flaky feature to use sometimes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now that you have your 'designed' internal structure don't forget to print at 100% infill, otherwise a slicer program &lt;em&gt;may&lt;/em&gt; hollow out your designed infill pattern.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5518" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:29:41.667" LastActivityDate="2017-04-25T12:43:26.410" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3921" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3910" CreationDate="2017-04-25T12:59:01.987" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are using PLA, putting blue painter's tape down on the print bed will really increase adhesion. You can also lightly sand the blue tape with a piece of fine sandpaper to further increase bed adhesion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6883" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-07-14T13:49:44.253" LastActivityDate="2018-07-14T13:49:44.253" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="3922" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-04-25T13:43:35.990" Score="3" ViewCount="103" Body="&lt;p&gt;For a university project, my partner and I need to print the robot Poppy. This is an open source robotic project, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.poppy-project.org/fr/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;poppy-project.org&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We are printing it with a double extruder SpiderBot with PLA and HIPS as support material. Our principal issue is the weakness of the pieces we print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It prevents us from removing the support material without damaging the piece. We don't have the chemicals to dissolve HIPS.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Have you some advice to make the pieces stronger, or a more gentle method to remove the HIPS?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for the replies&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6885" LastEditorUserId="854" LastEditDate="2017-04-25T14:50:25.020" LastActivityDate="2017-10-20T23:21:02.550" Title="Trouble printing Poppy Robot with SpiderBot" Tags="|print-quality|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3923" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="322" CreationDate="2017-04-25T19:50:59.190" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;A few suggestions I haven't seen explicitly stated in the other answers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Export resolution&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you export your STL files you can increase the resolution. If dimensional accuracy is extremely critical, you'll want to confirm that the STL conversion process hasn't altered the dimensions of curved surfaces outside your max min tolerances. I.e. open your STL file in you CAD program and then re-measure the resulting surfaces. STL conversion for holes makes the wholes slightly smaller, and external curved surfaces slightly larger.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Material Swell&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've noticed on my printer that parts are typically slightly larger when printed. I've managed to account for this in my CAD model by shrinking certain dimensions slightly in CAD prior to exporting them. My dimensions are typically off by about 0.1-0.2mm in XY, which if you're making something with close fits it's worth tweaking the file prior to printing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Warping&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I've got a part that needs to be perfectly flat, I'll use a raft with an additional ring  (or two) of helper discs surrounding the part. For the flattest side I'll also print this on the build plate. If you've got two or more, best judgement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Angled Flats&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If i have a part with flat surfaces that are at angles to the the build platform I'll slow my extruder way down, 10mm/s is my go to speed. Keeping the extruder moving slowly will help to ensure that your edges and walls will be relatively smooth and with the least amount of distortion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Calibration and setup&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Everyone has said it, I'll say it again. Check your printer prior to a critical print. Any sag in your belts will cause drooping, Print a test part to ensure that your temperature settings are good for your filament, and that your extraction distance will minimize stringing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do a few test prints with a new filament and again about half way through a roll to ensure everything is still working properly, and if needed I'll tweak things as needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5518" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:29:41.667" LastActivityDate="2017-04-25T19:50:59.190" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3924" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-04-25T20:41:39.377" Score="3" ViewCount="2288" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have just built my Anet A8 and it won't print. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I will preheat it (190°C 60°C) and then press &quot;&lt;code&gt;Print File&lt;/code&gt;&quot; and select, then it starts for a second, gets to around 11% and stops and shows &quot;&lt;code&gt;Preheat PLA&lt;/code&gt;&quot;. The PLA is already preheated - it is coming out of the nozzle. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any help would be appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6756" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2018-07-08T12:04:59.923" LastActivityDate="2018-08-12T21:26:15.337" Title="Anet A8 won't print" Tags="|3d-models|extruder|pla|anet-a8|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3925" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-04-26T09:12:27.487" Score="5" ViewCount="10412" Body="&lt;p&gt;I broke up my electronics and now the output for X is not working. The stepper is OK. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is any simple solution to remap the output pins? I want the E1 output to act as the X output.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6893" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2017-05-11T11:12:02.457" LastActivityDate="2022-10-08T15:53:23.323" Title="How to switch motor outputs and use E1 as X, in Marlin firmware?" Tags="|marlin|reprap|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3926" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3925" CreationDate="2017-04-26T10:46:53.230" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;you can find pin.h in marlin directory and in pin.h file change # define pinout of z motor and extruder motor&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6760" LastEditorUserId="6760" LastEditDate="2017-04-28T08:26:42.567" LastActivityDate="2017-04-28T08:26:42.567" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3927" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2017-04-26T18:30:28.433" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-26T18:30:28.433" LastActivityDate="2017-04-26T18:30:28.433" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3928" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2017-04-26T18:30:28.433" Score="0" Body="Questions related to the mechanical strength of a print, e.g. material strength, or finished part strengths" OwnerUserId="5518" LastEditorUserId="5518" LastEditDate="2017-04-26T21:09:00.043" LastActivityDate="2017-04-26T21:09:00.043" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3929" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2017-04-26T18:36:08.520" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-26T18:36:08.520" LastActivityDate="2017-04-26T18:36:08.520" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3930" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2017-04-26T18:36:08.520" Score="0" Body="Relating to the quality of the final part.&#xD;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5518" LastEditorUserId="5518" LastEditDate="2017-04-26T21:08:52.320" LastActivityDate="2017-04-26T21:08:52.320" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3931" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2017-04-26T18:39:09.163" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;OpenSCAD is software for creating solid 3D CAD models. It is free software and available for Linux/UNIX, Windows and macOS. Unlike most free software for creating 3D models (such as Blender) it does not focus on the artistic aspects of 3D modelling but instead on the CAD aspects. More details &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.openscad.org&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="150" LastEditorUserId="4808" LastEditDate="2018-12-16T20:16:19.880" LastActivityDate="2018-12-16T20:16:19.880" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="3932" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2017-04-26T18:39:09.163" Score="0" Body="Questions related to the use of the program OpenSCAD and how it relates to creating parts for 3D printing" OwnerUserId="5518" LastEditorUserId="150" LastEditDate="2018-10-25T09:33:22.367" LastActivityDate="2018-10-25T09:33:22.367" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="3933" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2017-04-26T18:40:36.830" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-26T18:40:36.830" LastActivityDate="2017-04-26T18:40:36.830" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3934" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2017-04-26T18:40:36.830" Score="0" Body="Questions related to the efficient use of a 3Dprinter, or how to optimize the printing and design process" OwnerUserId="5518" LastEditorUserId="5518" LastEditDate="2017-04-26T21:08:46.713" LastActivityDate="2017-04-26T21:08:46.713" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3935" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2017-04-26T18:42:30.817" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;For questions primarily related to Computer-Aided Design (CAD).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your question is about using particular software, you should also use the corresponding tag for that software (if one exists) – such as &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/openscad&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;openscad&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;openscad&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/freecad&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;freecad&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;freecad&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/tinkercad&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;tinkercad&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;tinkercad&lt;/a&gt;, or &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/grabcad-print&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;grabcad-print&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;grabcad-print&lt;/a&gt; – in addition to this tag.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="30940" LastEditDate="2022-03-25T19:04:40.297" LastActivityDate="2022-03-25T19:04:40.297" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="3936" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2017-04-26T18:42:30.817" Score="0" Body="For questions primarily related to Computer-Aided Design (CAD). If your question is about using particular software, you should also use the corresponding tag for that software (if one exists) – such as [openscad], [freecad], [tinkercad], or [grabcad-print] – in addition to this tag." OwnerUserId="5518" LastEditorUserId="30940" LastEditDate="2022-03-25T19:04:40.297" LastActivityDate="2022-03-25T19:04:40.297" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="3937" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2017-04-27T00:57:42.033" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Questions relating to print cooling fans used for cooling the extruded material in a 3D printer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For electronics cooling fans, use the &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/fans&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;fans&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;fans&lt;/a&gt; tag.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2019-05-29T21:25:52.263" LastActivityDate="2019-05-29T21:25:52.263" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="3938" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2017-04-27T00:57:42.033" Score="0" Body="Questions relating to print cooling fans used for cooling the extruded material in a 3D printer. For electronics cooling fans, use the 'fans' tag." OwnerUserId="5518" LastEditorUserId="4927" LastEditDate="2018-09-04T09:51:53.157" LastActivityDate="2018-09-04T09:51:53.157" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="3939" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2017-04-27T01:00:52.273" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-27T01:00:52.273" LastActivityDate="2017-04-27T01:00:52.273" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3940" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2017-04-27T01:00:52.273" Score="0" Body="Questions about the material used to support over hanging structures, their design, use and removal" OwnerUserId="5518" LastEditorUserId="5518" LastEditDate="2017-04-27T09:27:15.450" LastActivityDate="2017-04-27T09:27:15.450" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3941" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2017-04-27T01:03:08.957" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Bowden extruder is a type of coldend where the filament feeding mechanism consists of a long PTFE sheath containing the filament as a &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bowden_cable&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Bowden cable&lt;/a&gt; with a frame mounted motor pushing the filament into the hotend, instead of mounting the motor right next the extruder hotend. More details &lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/wiki/Category:Bowden_Extruders&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="150" LastEditorUserId="150" LastEditDate="2018-10-25T09:34:51.690" LastActivityDate="2018-10-25T09:34:51.690" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="3942" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2017-04-27T01:03:08.957" Score="0" Body="Questions using this tag should involve the Bowden extruder - a type of FDM extruder that doesn't have the motor mounted to the printer's XY gantry." OwnerUserId="5518" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-10-25T09:36:30.250" LastActivityDate="2018-10-25T09:36:30.250" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="3943" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2017-04-27T01:04:23.637" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-27T01:04:23.637" LastActivityDate="2017-04-27T01:04:23.637" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3944" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2017-04-27T01:04:23.637" Score="0" Body="Questions relating to the type of print failure that causes the layers to separate from one another. " OwnerUserId="5518" LastEditorUserId="5518" LastEditDate="2017-04-27T09:27:56.400" LastActivityDate="2017-04-27T09:27:56.400" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3945" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2017-04-27T01:06:22.770" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-27T01:06:22.770" LastActivityDate="2017-04-27T01:06:22.770" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3946" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2017-04-27T01:06:22.770" Score="0" Body="Questions relating to the resolution of print layers, that is prints parallel to the Z-plane. " OwnerUserId="5518" LastEditorUserId="5518" LastEditDate="2017-04-27T09:28:12.937" LastActivityDate="2017-04-27T09:28:12.937" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3947" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2017-04-27T01:08:58.877" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-27T01:08:58.877" LastActivityDate="2017-04-27T01:08:58.877" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3948" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2017-04-27T01:08:58.877" Score="0" Body="Questions related to 3D-printers, that are either not manufactured on a commercial scale and assembled by the end user, or are designed and built by a non-commercial entity." OwnerUserId="5518" LastEditorUserId="5518" LastEditDate="2017-04-27T09:27:27.527" LastActivityDate="2017-04-27T09:27:27.527" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3949" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2017-04-27T01:10:59.040" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Questions about methods and processes used after a part is completed by a 3D printer, including, but not limited to, polishing, cleaning, removal or disposal of printed material.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-07-10T06:02:04.773" LastActivityDate="2019-07-10T06:02:04.773" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="3950" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2017-04-27T01:10:59.040" Score="0" Body="Use this tag for questions about post processing, i.e. additional methods and processes after a print has been completed." OwnerUserId="5518" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-07-10T06:02:04.773" LastActivityDate="2019-07-10T06:02:04.773" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="3951" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2017-04-27T01:13:10.127" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-27T01:13:10.127" LastActivityDate="2017-04-27T01:13:10.127" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3952" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2017-04-27T01:13:10.127" Score="0" Body="Questions relating to 3D printers, that create entirely metal parts." OwnerUserId="5518" LastEditorUserId="5518" LastEditDate="2017-04-27T09:28:01.607" LastActivityDate="2017-04-27T09:28:01.607" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3953" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2017-04-27T01:14:33.980" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Questions related to the Linux-based computer &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.raspberrypi.org/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&quot;Raspberry Pi&quot;&lt;/a&gt; and how it can be used with or for 3D printers. General Raspberry Pi questions not related to 3D printing are off-topic; please visit our sister site &lt;a href=&quot;https://raspberrypi.stackexchange.com/&quot;&gt;Raspberry Pi Stack Exchange&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4808" LastEditorUserId="4808" LastEditDate="2018-12-01T12:53:15.023" LastActivityDate="2018-12-01T12:53:15.023" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="3954" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2017-04-27T01:14:33.980" Score="0" Body="Questions related to the Linux-based computer &quot;Raspberry Pi&quot; and how it can be used with or for 3D printers. For general Raspberry Pi questions, please use the Raspberry Pi Stack Exchange site. " OwnerUserId="5518" LastEditorUserId="4808" LastEditDate="2018-12-01T12:53:18.380" LastActivityDate="2018-12-01T12:53:18.380" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="3955" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3958" CreationDate="2017-04-27T10:03:51.680" Score="6" ViewCount="2203" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 3D printed object that I'd like to print on. Adhesive stickers are an option, but as the surface is rounded it's difficult to get a good film to stick well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any system to print on a 3D object (e.g. ink jet). I need at least 300dpi. Black in the first instance, but color would be nice for future projects. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6689" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-07-06T13:43:13.557" LastActivityDate="2018-12-17T05:17:48.213" Title="Is there a way to print on a 3D printed surface?" Tags="|surface|color|graphics|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3957" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3955" CreationDate="2017-04-27T12:42:45.847" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are printer types that can print images into the material as it's being printed. SLA and SLS type printers are capable of this but I believe Polyjet printers are the best suited.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At 300 dpi though you might be pushing the edge of what is capable. to get that fine of detail your best option may be to look into getting a vinyl wrap for your part that is applied after it's printed. If you've seen cars with really high detail images on them, a vinyl wrap is typically how they're done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Note&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I should state that the SLA and SLS embedded images are still in the R&amp;amp;D phases and being experimented with. Possible now, but not in production phase. The SLS version essentially ran another print head over that worked similar to an ink jet before sintering the layers. The SLA version I saw worked somewhat similarly, but had some 'unique' clearing processes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5518" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:29:41.667" LastActivityDate="2018-12-17T05:17:48.213" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="3958" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3955" CreationDate="2017-04-27T14:16:18.850" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Rather than post a series of links for various services and vendors, consider to use as a search term &quot;hydrographic film at home&quot; to find results to suit your purpose. The first search results I found excluded &quot;at home&quot; and indicated it was not suited for home/hobbyist use, but the modification resulted in vendors supportive of home users.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In advanced circumstances, the image printed on the film is topographically matched to the model to which it is to be applied. For home users, I suspect that is somewhat out of reach. Most of the products aimed at the home user are patterns or solid colors, although with care, one could combine films in sequential applications.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Effectively, the process involves a colored film floating on a water filled container. Certain products are applied to the film and to the prepared model to ensure bonding. Additional processes are required to protect the graphic-coated model after removal from the bath/container.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As with the other responses, it's not likely one will achieve 300 dpi resolution without resorting to the topographically matched commercial methods.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastEditorUserId="854" LastEditDate="2017-04-27T18:18:40.830" LastActivityDate="2017-04-27T18:18:40.830" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3959" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3955" CreationDate="2017-04-27T14:41:19.027" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;A possible alternative, depending on the resolution limit of your 3Dprinter, is to embed the text into your design so the final result has the text raised a mm or so above the surface.  You can then easily (!!) paint just the raised surface to highlight the lettering.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;This is not going to work for 300dpi, though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2191" LastActivityDate="2017-04-27T14:41:19.027" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3960" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3275" CreationDate="2017-04-27T22:52:04.453" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you want to print the demo files with ABS rather than PLA, as the files are designed to do, I recommend loading the file into CURA and saving out a new gcode file with the adjusted temperatures. You can load the file from gcode, which will give you the basic settings that are included in the PLA file. I would also recommend slowing down the first layer a bit as adhesion of the initial layer is much more important for ABS than PLA, as ABS tends to warp more. Also you should reduce, if not turn off your cooling fans. Then once all the settings are where you need them to be for ABS, just export out a new file and probably change the name to include _ABS so you know the difference when you're mounting the card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6915" LastActivityDate="2017-04-27T22:52:04.453" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3961" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-04-28T01:49:03.847" Score="1" ViewCount="1144" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've done 0.1 before and I think I've gotten better and more smooth results than this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/muMWx.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think that my printer is having some sort of problem, or the print bed it too low because this was printed at a 0.1 layer height. I think the print should look a lot more smooth than that. I'm using the Monoprice Select Mini.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6917" LastEditorUserId="6359" LastEditDate="2017-04-28T17:24:42.280" LastActivityDate="2017-04-28T18:47:04.967" Title="Is this what a 0.1 layer height should look like?" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|g-code|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3962" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3915" CreationDate="2017-04-28T10:41:21.880" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;For reference, I have the same printer and am speaking from my experiences.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You have two routes you can take with this, but both are effectively the same result - you need to replace the X carriage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to re-use your existing extruder components you can pull the MK8 extruder off the X carriage and use it as the extruder to drive a bowden configuration, then all you need is a length of PTFE tube and the couplers between the E3d and the MK8 to hold the tube. This is probably the best solution as it takes a lot of weight off of the X-carriage resulting in significantly better print quality, the only downside is that printing with flexible filaments is a &lt;em&gt;lot&lt;/em&gt; more difficult with a bowden configuration, if you intended to do a lot of that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other option (and the one I took) is to print an entire new x-carriage/extruder assembly. Because the Anet A8 is based off the Prusa and the Z/X carriage assemblies are &lt;em&gt;basically&lt;/em&gt; the same as the original Prusa I3 you can just take any design for the Prusa and fit it onto the Anet, I did this with a gregs wade extruder &amp;amp; E3D hotend mount I found on thingiverse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I didnt look too hard, but if you are adament on wanting to keep the MK8 extruder on the X-carriage and couple it direct-driven to the V6, you can probably find some x-carriage that lines the two up for this purpose (or you could even design one yourself if you are interested in doing so). I didn't look in to this route myself, so cannot give much guidance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1929" LastEditorUserId="1929" LastEditDate="2017-04-28T10:46:22.547" LastActivityDate="2017-04-28T10:46:22.547" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3963" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3889" CreationDate="2017-04-28T13:52:01.113" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just go and pull it off the print head with pliers when it's about to start and sometimes shortly after it starts printing, but its probably not the safest way to deal with the problem. Printing a skirt, brim, or raft should help to fix the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6883" LastActivityDate="2017-04-28T13:52:01.113" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3964" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3961" CreationDate="2017-04-28T18:13:23.513" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;This may be an effect of the not using a &quot;Magic Number&quot; for your layer height. The Monoprice Select Mini has a z-resolution of 0.04375mm, so layer heights should be multiples of that. (See &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/3904/what-are-the-magic-numbers-on-a-monoprice-select-mini&quot;&gt;What are the “magic numbers” on a Monoprice Select Mini?&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you slice with a layer height of 0.1mm, each layer will be a little smaller (0.0875mm) or bigger (0.13125mm) to get close the the ideal height. The extrusion won't change, causing some layers to be thin and overextruded and others to be thick and underextruded.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5704" LastEditorUserId="5704" LastEditDate="2017-04-28T18:47:04.967" LastActivityDate="2017-04-28T18:47:04.967" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3965" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3966" CreationDate="2017-04-28T18:30:24.857" Score="3" ViewCount="518" Body="&lt;h3&gt;TL;DR&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do I upscale a &lt;a href=&quot;http://reprap.org/wiki/Wilson_TS#Wilson_II&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Wilson II&lt;/a&gt;? What lengths of aluminium&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; do I need in order to achieve a particular (increased/reduced) build volume?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The design of the Wilson II is scalable (source: &lt;a href=&quot;http://reprap.org/wiki/Wilson_TS&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;RepRapWiki - Category:Wilson&lt;/a&gt;):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;...the design has a parametric build area, meaning it is relatively easy to scale the X, Y, and Z axis within reason.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What does &lt;em&gt;parametric&lt;/em&gt; mean exactly, in this scenario? How does one scale up from 200x300x200&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;? Also, how would that affect the Repetier/Marlin firmware?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it simply a matter of maintaining the ratios of the lengths of the X, Y and Z axes constant, or can the ratios be ignored? Is there a formula, or set of formulae, for this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has anyone gone beyond the 200x300x200 build volume? I have seen the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:891409&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Scalar M and XL series printers&lt;/a&gt; (with the XL having a print volume of 400x300x300) which, while they are not based on the Wilson, also boast of scalability:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Scalar Family 3D printers are &amp;quot;scalable&amp;quot; printers.&#xA;Reviewing the idea of a reprap printer, a printer that can auto replicate and scale, we wanted to propose a 3D printer with plastic parts for you to print, and with a way to &amp;quot;scale&amp;quot; easily.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can one (within reason) arbitrarily section various (supersized) length for the three axes and then modify the firmware accordingly, or is there a set of rules which govern the relationship between the lengths of the three axes?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;A simplistic view&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As an example, the lengths (in mm) of the 2020 aluminium corresponding to the build volume of 200x300x200 are 330, 500, 400 for the X, Y, and Z axes, respectively.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously, there are some constants to consider for the stepper housings, and idlers, for example. So, assuming that for X, Y and Z axes respectively, the constants are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;330 - 200 = 130 mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;500 - 300 = 200 mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;400 - 200 = 200 mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I wanted a build volume of, let's say, 400x500x300 (XYZ), would the new XYZ lengths of 2020 aluminium simply become (by adding the respective constants):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;400 + 130 = 530 mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;500 + 200 = 700 mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;300 + 200 = 500 mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;or is there more to it than that?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; I appreciate that 3030, en lieu of 2020, extruded aluminium may be required to maintain rigidity for larger print volumes&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4762" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:29:41.667" LastActivityDate="2017-05-19T18:58:58.250" Title="For a larger build volume, what lengths of 2020 aluminium do I need?" Tags="|printer-building|diy-3d-printer|wilson|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3966" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3965" CreationDate="2017-04-28T20:09:06.357" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Long story short: ratios can be ignored. You only need to let your firmware know actual size, if it needs so. However, using &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Golden_ratio&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;golden ratio&lt;/a&gt; seems quite reasonable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When talking about rigidity, keeping it will become a real issue at some point and may not be always effectively resolved by merely changing 2020 to 3030. Using 4020 or double 2020 could be better solution to compensate the most common forces during printing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3839" LastActivityDate="2017-04-28T20:09:06.357" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3967" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-04-29T09:38:49.150" Score="6" ViewCount="2495" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm struggling with my new printer, and I just want to make sure that I have the basic configured correctly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What motherboard ID in &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/blob/1.1.x/Marlin/Configuration.h&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;code&gt;configuration.h&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/a&gt; is appropriate for MKS BASE V1.5 in Marlin Firmware?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6778" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-08-29T19:40:07.320" LastActivityDate="2019-01-10T07:41:18.953" Title="What motherboard ID is appropriate for MKS BASE V1.5 in Marlin Firmware?" Tags="|marlin|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="3968" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3970" CreationDate="2017-04-30T13:12:33.240" Score="10" ViewCount="14740" Body="&lt;h3&gt;TL;DR&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is ABS a better material to use for structural parts of a 3D printer, as opposed to PLA?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have been looking at various suppliers of printed parts for a &lt;a href=&quot;http://reprap.org/wiki/Wilson_TS#Wilson_II&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Wilson II&lt;/a&gt;, on eBay.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/252871697915&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;One supplier&lt;/a&gt; supplies all of the parts printed in ABS, whereas &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/182099145671&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;another supplier&lt;/a&gt; provides the structural parts, which form part of the frame, in PLA, and the remaining (non-structural) parts in ABS. The second supplier states the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This kit is printed in two materials, the structural parts are printed on high-quality PLA to provide the necessary rigidity, and the others in premium ABS.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;MJRice, who developed the printer, also supplies &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.tindie.com/products/mjrice/reprap-wilson-ii-plastic-parts-kit/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;the printed parts&lt;/a&gt;, which are made of PLA.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is PLA really a better choice for structural components? A quick google lead me to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.digitaltrends.com/cool-tech/abs-vs-pla-3d-printing-materials-comparison/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;ABS or PLA: Which 3D printing filament should you use?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;ABS is going to give your projects better structural integrity and will be more suited to mechanical use&lt;/strong&gt; given the material can better withstand the elements, but it will also require specific types of printers and printing surfaces. On the flip side, PLA will give you more precise prints and better aesthetic quality, as well as more flexibility with printing conditions if you can do without the &lt;strong&gt;strength and resilience of ABS&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another link, &lt;a href=&quot;https://groups.google.com/forum/#!topic/makerbot/JiPjCMt0-Bc&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;What's stronger? PLA or ABS?&lt;/a&gt;, also implies that ABS is stronger than PLA:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The strongest ABS is stronger than the strongest PLA&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;ABS is much less brittle than PLA&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;although warpage could be an issue...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I choose ABS for it's strength over PLA.  &lt;em&gt;I would love to avoid the warpage/shrinkage problems of ABS&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Heat seems to affect PLA more than ABS (obviously, due to the lower melting point),&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;FWIW, I know a guy who had a reprap using PLA-printed parts.  He was taking his machine around to do demos and he left it in the car mid-day once.  It melted the parts enough that prints were coming out very poorly even after his best effort at recalibrating the machine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and as I am in Thailand, my room gets up to 50°C some days (it is unbearable), I wonder if that would be cause for concern?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, from the above nuggets of information, wouldn't ABS be a better choice? I am surely missing something, as both the second supplier, &lt;em&gt;and&lt;/em&gt; MJRice, use PLA.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4762" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:29:41.667" LastActivityDate="2021-03-19T02:04:06.970" Title="ABS or PLA for structural printed parts?" Tags="|pla|abs|printer-building|diy-3d-printer|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3969" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3968" CreationDate="2017-04-30T17:37:33.770" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;50°C is hot for you. PLA's glass transition temperature is 65°C. A car in the mid-day sun can get very hot indeed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As to the question of &quot;stronger&quot; - if the part is designed to be &lt;em&gt;strong enough&lt;/em&gt; for its use in PLA, it will be no better in &quot;stronger&quot; ABS. If the PLA part will be &quot;more precise&quot; and &quot;less warped&quot; - that may well make it better for its use. Other than a widespread community dedication to self-replication, (or mostly self-replicating with some metal parts) there's plenty of arguments for making most printer parts out of machined metal, for that matter - much stronger than ABS or PLA.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Brittleness likewise might matter if you were planning to drop the printer; but should not matter in use if the part is designed for the forces it will see in the material it's designed for. Looking at older technology, many machine tools are made of cast iron, which is quite brittle, rather than steel, which can be less brittle depending on how it's processed. If the part is designed for the job and used/handled in a reasonable way, &quot;brittle&quot; is not an inherently bad thing, and a thin steel part that flexes is a worse thing than a thick cast iron part that flexes less.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;withstand the elements&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;that appears to be a reference to outdoor use where PLA will break down - but if you are not leaving your printer out in the rain (which will be bad for many other parts unless you do a lot of engineering to protect them) that should be of little concern.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6853" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2017-06-12T15:06:09.250" LastActivityDate="2017-06-12T15:06:09.250" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3970" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3968" CreationDate="2017-04-30T21:44:28.840" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;To answer the main question &quot;Is ABS better for structural parts of a 3D printer as opposed to PLA&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The answer, unfortunately is it depends.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;ABS has lower yield and ultimate strengths compared to PLA. This means that at room temperatures, ABS is weaker than PLA. However the difference between yield and ultimate for ABS is much larger than PLA, meaning that ABS parts will deform, noticeably so before breaking. This &lt;em&gt;can&lt;/em&gt; be a good thing. If your ABS part is highly loaded, you may want to be able to inspect it for overloading. The plastic deformation that occurs in ABS may be sufficient for you to identify, and modify your parts before a catastrophic failure. With PLA though since the two strengths are quite close, your part would more than likely fail completely without any warning or deformation before it. So in terms of strength, it's a design consideration. Would you rather have a slightly weaker part that shows signs of load failure, or is a catastrophic failure acceptable. There are use cases where either may be better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As Ecnerwal pointed out, PLA has a lower Tg (glass transition temperature) compared to ABS. If your printed parts are going on a 3D printer and aren't sufficiently isolated from the hot parts (print bed or extruder) then you may end up having some localized deformation. That being said, the extruder is generally pretty localized and likely won't cause you too many issues assuming you're using any of the already available 3D printer designs out there, same for the print bed. However by the sounds of it your 'room' temperature is a fair bit higher than here in North America, by a factor of almost 2! This &lt;em&gt;could&lt;/em&gt; cause you some issues if you're printing parts in the high heat with PLA. Your best option would be ABS, but even with it's higher Tg (roughly 90C if I remember correctly) you may still run into issues. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The warping and shrinkage issues mentioned in the question seem to be more about parts being built by a 3D printer. Once the parts are built warpage and shrinkage are essentially a non-issue unless you've heated parts back to within their melting temperatures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on where you're getting your plastic parts, there may be a third option. By the sounds of it you're looking at building your own printer. You may be able to get the STL files of the printed parts you need and then have someone print them for you in a stronger material such as Nylon. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming alternative materials aren't an option I would personally suggest going with ABS for your use case. My reasoning is purely due to the potential operating temperatures. While 50C is below the Tg for PLA it's getting very close.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5518" LastActivityDate="2017-04-30T21:44:28.840" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3972" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4073" CreationDate="2017-05-01T10:57:16.473" Score="2" ViewCount="1244" Body="&lt;p&gt;After I updated the firmware on my Prusa i3, the Bed won't switch off anymore. It worked perfectly before the update, but now, the moment I power up my printer, the LED on the bed turns on and it starts heating up. The manual control in Repetier Host doesn't turn if off or on and I even tried g-codes &lt;code&gt;M140 S0&lt;/code&gt; as well as &lt;code&gt;M0&lt;/code&gt;, but it does not switch it off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit:&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;I have an Arduino Mega2560 with a RAMPS shield. The Marlin firmware came pre-configured from the store I bought the kit from.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6952" LastEditorUserId="6952" LastEditDate="2017-05-01T12:56:27.417" LastActivityDate="2017-05-16T10:49:53.863" Title="Bed won't switch off after Marlin firmware update" Tags="|prusa-i3|heated-bed|marlin|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3973" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-05-01T13:36:59.920" Score="4" ViewCount="7369" Body="&lt;p&gt;For the Anycubic Kossel Linear Plus I have to upload data to the 3D printer from a software called Arduino and then close it. Then I open Pronterface and put in the right port and baud rate that is in the Arduino files and then click &quot;connect&quot;. Afterwards it says &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;connecting...&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and that is all it does and doesn't fully connect to the printer. I've tried changing the baud rate and port in Pronterface, Arduino and the bit rate in the Device Manager but nothing works. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any suggestions on how to fix this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6953" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2017-05-02T12:29:50.060" LastActivityDate="2017-07-19T05:48:49.110" Title="Pronterface won't connect to my Anycubic Kossel Linear Plus" Tags="|diy-3d-printer|kossel|pronterface|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3976" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3967" CreationDate="2017-05-02T11:17:21.367" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Marlin appears to support older versions of the board (and possibly this one) according to this line &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#define BOARD_MKS_13            47   // MKS v1.3 or 1.4 (maybe higher)&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;in &lt;code&gt;boards.h&lt;/code&gt; which can be found &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/blob/RC/Marlin/boards.h&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The company also has a &lt;a href=&quot;https://web.archive.org/web/20180223090126/http://osoyoo.com/2016/06/30/mks-1-4-3d-printer-board-marlin-firmware-installation-guide/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;guide&lt;/a&gt; and looks to provide pre-configured (but not fully configured?) downloads of Marlin.  They have different links for different displays but then ask you to change lines manually but don't mention changing the board so I have no idea what they are doing or what is different between the downloads.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It appears either way you go (Marlin from Github or from Osoyoo) you will need to change some lines to get each axis to behave correctly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="233" LastEditorUserId="233" LastEditDate="2018-08-28T17:07:29.750" LastActivityDate="2018-08-28T17:07:29.750" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="3977" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3771" CreationDate="2017-05-02T18:57:31.933" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;At the current moment, commercial fume extractors are quite rare in the market, but there are companies releasing some this year (like the &lt;a href=&quot;http://3dkreator.com/en/blog/warning-typical-desktop-3d-printer-emits-hazardous-particles-and-compounds-during-3d-printing-are-we-in-trouble&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;3DKreator's SYNE system&lt;/a&gt;). However all commercial forms of it are quite expensive. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I would do would be using an active carbon filter with a fan.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6938" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2017-05-03T07:48:16.087" LastActivityDate="2017-05-03T07:48:16.087" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3978" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3972" CreationDate="2017-05-02T21:02:22.997" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds like the pin configuration in the firmware you flashed doesn't match your hardware. Heaters should never be on by default and M140 S0 should always turn off current to the bed. What you describe sounds like the firmware is sending power to a pin that it believes is something other than what it is, either because the bed is on a fan pin (like D9) or because the firmware thinks D8 is something other than the heated bed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it worked before, your original firmware was configured to match how your board was wired, specifically which pins were mapped to what hardware. If you're confident that the new firmware pin configuration is correct, you can ignore this theory. Otherwise you should nail down which D8/D9/D10 pin maps to what hardware and resolve the mismatch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On RAMPS, pins 8, 9 and 10 are typically used to control fans, hotends and heated beds and you define this behavior in configuration.h. If you flashed from source you should review configuration.h and ensure it matches your hardware. This likely means setting the &lt;code&gt;MOTHERBOARD&lt;/code&gt; to the value that matches how pins 8/9/10 are wired. See this section (or something similar) in &lt;code&gt;configuration.h&lt;/code&gt; to get started:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;// The following define selects which electronics board you have.&#xA;// Please choose the name from boards.h that matches your setup&#xA;#ifndef MOTHERBOARD&#xA;  #define MOTHERBOARD BOARD_RAMPS_14_EFB&#xA;#endif&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6974" LastEditorUserId="6974" LastEditDate="2017-05-02T21:38:04.977" LastActivityDate="2017-05-02T21:38:04.977" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3979" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3322" CreationDate="2017-05-02T21:22:57.327" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have seen this in Cura 2.5 when selecting different printers, then altering the specifications to suit. Changing the printer seems to change the slicing behavior. As yet there is no specific printer set up in Cura for the MEGA so you will probably have to find something that fits your needs, unless someone has the full settings. For example, is the Machine Center at Zero? Maybe try the Prusa Mk2?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6975" LastActivityDate="2017-05-02T21:22:57.327" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3980" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-05-03T08:38:00.187" Score="0" ViewCount="180" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to know what are the best settings for Taulman 618 Nylon filament? In particular, the print head and print bed temperatures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6979" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2018-09-16T12:21:41.627" LastActivityDate="2018-09-16T12:21:41.627" Title="Settings for Taulman 618 Nylon" Tags="|filament|nylon|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3981" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-05-03T11:08:47.357" Score="6" ViewCount="690" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am using a Prusa i3 MK2 to do a print in ASA, and I'm having a problem where on the second layer the plastic 'runs' into lines &lt;strong&gt;across&lt;/strong&gt; the direction the head travels. It looks like the plastic is being repelled by the previous layer and running together due to surface tension, but I may be wrong about this. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I thought I had managed to solve this problem previously by reducing the temperature to 230&amp;nbsp;°C (1&lt;sup&gt;st&lt;/sup&gt; layer) / 225&amp;nbsp;°C (other layers), but having changed some of the other settings this is no longer solving the problem. I have tried reducing the temperature as low as 215&amp;nbsp;°C / 210&amp;nbsp;°C, and this is still happening.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a photograph of the first and second layers:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DprlP.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DprlP.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;First and second layers&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The direction of head travel for the first layer was bottom left &amp;lt;-&gt; top right, and for the second layer top left &amp;lt;-&gt; bottom right.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The settings were based on the standard Prusa i3 MK2 Slic3r settings bundle for ABS filament with a 0.05&amp;nbsp;mm layer height, modified as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;print temperature reduced to 230&amp;nbsp;°C / 225&amp;nbsp;°C&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;fan speed increased slightly to 15&amp;nbsp;% as on 10&amp;nbsp;% the fan doesn't start.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;layer height for first 14 layers: 0.2&amp;nbsp;mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;extrusion widths set to Slic3r defaults&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;various print speeds reduced, mainly the travel speed.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;number of top and bottom layers reduced because of the increased layer height.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason for increasing the layer height for the first 14 layers is that the print is a piece of mixed raised text and braille lettering intended to be inset into a larger sign. I want fine detail for the top layers with the lettering, but high speed for the lower layers that are more structural. I am inserting an &lt;code&gt;M600&lt;/code&gt; change filament manually into the G-Code file at the point where the lettering starts.  I have so far managed to produce one successful print - see the image below. The reason I am still playing with the settings is that the good print wasn't in high enough quality, and there was some slight stringing between letters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Xtkdf.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Xtkdf.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Successful print&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The good print was based on a 0.1&amp;nbsp;mm layer height for the lettering, modified to 0.15&amp;nbsp;mm for the lower layers, with a temperature of 230&amp;nbsp;°C / 225&amp;nbsp;°C.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6981" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-07-08T14:16:45.827" LastActivityDate="2019-07-08T14:16:45.827" Title="Second layer of ASA print 'runs'" Tags="|prusa-i3|slic3r|asa|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="3982" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3980" CreationDate="2017-05-03T11:23:37.150" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;240°C, lots of cooling. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.hyrel3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/MSPS-Nylon.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Material Specification Print Sheet - Taulmann 618 Nylon&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4922" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2017-05-03T14:12:59.113" LastActivityDate="2017-05-03T14:12:59.113" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3983" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3984" CreationDate="2017-05-03T14:23:30.573" Score="5" ViewCount="4282" Body="&lt;p&gt;So here &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/q/322/6853&quot;&gt;How to achieve dimensional accuracy of printed parts&lt;/a&gt; the Cartesian printer approach to accurate sizing is covered. And deltas get a footnote of &lt;em&gt;being a whole other ball of wax&lt;/em&gt; - so let's look at that wax ball.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm currently resurrecting, or erecting, depending how one looks at it, a poorly documented Chinese printer (purchased in China by a Chinese student and abandoned in the US after graduation) that appears to be based off a Rostock mini. Z 204mm, X Y 100mm radius or 200 mm diameter, Bowden tube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gt12P.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gt12P.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It appears to be equipped with an absurdly small nozzle (lacking a good way to check that precisely yet, feeding suggests possibly 0.1mm, and no, the vertical resolution is not nearly enough to make that in any way reasonable), which is obviously fixable if the rest of it can be made to work. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yesterday we got it to the point of (very tediously with tiny nozzle) spitting out a test cube, which was 17 by 17 by 20 mm - undersized in XY, accurate in Z. The last bit makes me pretty sure the steps/mm are right on the steppers, but obviously something is off in the geometry (measured, no documentation for this exact printer can be found, at least by non-Chinese-speaking/reading me - it being utterly un-branded does not help.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A second test cube was produced with scaling set to 20/17 (1.176) in the XY directions, and that seems to be accurate at least to non-precision measurements. I'm now contemplating &quot;what likely needs tweaked, and in what direction&quot; for the delta geometry - I'd say the rod eye-to-eye measurement (85mm, IIRC) is fairly decent, the offset from rod mount at carriage to rod center is not too terrible, and I have low confidence in the rod mount at printhead to nozzle - so that's the one I suspect most.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;tl, dr:&lt;strong&gt;But I lack an intuitive understanding of how each of those parameters (offset at carriage, offset at printhead, and arm length) would affect the printed size.&lt;/strong&gt; I'll come back and edit in what we currently think each is. Rather than depending on scaling in the slicer I'd like to seek the &quot;right numbers&quot; but when at the limits of available measurement precision, having an idea how and in what direction incorrect offsets or arm length affect the print size would be good, rather than just blindly changing numbers and hoping.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;I also have some other &quot;print quality&quot; issues and a bed leveling issue which will be other questions when I can sort that out.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6853" LastEditorUserId="6853" LastEditDate="2017-05-05T00:43:55.450" LastActivityDate="2017-05-05T00:43:55.450" Title="Scaling/size issues in delta printers" Tags="|delta|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3984" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3983" CreationDate="2017-05-03T18:08:58.243" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Issues in X-Y size on a Delta are usually the result of an incorrect diagonal rod value in the firmware.  This should be easy to fix assuming the rods were built together.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The formula for this is (20 in this case is your test print X-Y):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;code&gt;New DELTA_DIAGONAL_ROD = 20 / measured_length * Original DELTA_DIAGONAL_ROD&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found this information (&lt;a href=&quot;http://minow.blogspot.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;), this site also has more information on setting the radius and other delta specific issues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you encounter issues with the size of the rods you should build new ones using a jig.  There are several (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:617081&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here's one&lt;/a&gt;) I found on Thingiverse but they require printed parts and they do all the rods horizontally which I think would be tough to keep equal. I would use something similar to this picture but with a longer rod/bolt so you can fit all rods on the same time.  When I did my Kossel Mini I used a piece of the extrusion with bolts coming off of it to keep the rods consistent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zmcmc.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zmcmc.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the other issues you mention you should open another question specific to each issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="233" LastEditorUserId="233" LastEditDate="2017-05-03T18:14:04.960" LastActivityDate="2017-05-03T18:14:04.960" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3985" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3988" CreationDate="2017-05-03T23:03:52.200" Score="10" ViewCount="5833" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been using a printer for several years now and I've never replaced any of my extruder hardware (nozzles, steppers, gears etc.). I was wondering how long you should expect your extruder hardware to last? Is it indefinite, or are there normal life expectancies on them?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, what signs should you look for, in your prints, that would suggest that your nozzle is starting to wear out? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm more interested in the parts that contact your filament directly - I'm painfully familiar with replacing gantry parts (X-Y belts and pulleys).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5518" LastEditorUserId="854" LastEditDate="2017-05-07T00:03:54.850" LastActivityDate="2017-05-07T00:03:54.850" Title="How long is an extruder's/nozzle's life?" Tags="|hardware|replacement-parts|life-expectancy|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3986" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3987" CreationDate="2017-05-03T23:59:04.813" Score="2" ViewCount="1079" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm building a new printer after having an Anet A8 for about two months and getting a feel for what I want. I'm planning to buy a P3Steel frame; but can't decide which version to get. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are one or two prints I would like to make that are larger than 20&amp;nbsp;cm in length; but I could always do these in multiple pieces. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I'm wondering is how serious are the trade-offs I would be making for a larger bed? I would think I would need thicker linear rods for the 510&amp;nbsp;mm length y-axis; and the bed would also have a large amount of inertia so that could slow down printing. Does anyone have any experience with this size bed in a moving y-carriage scenario? Also how thick of rods should I get? Orballo printing is saying 8&amp;nbsp;mm is fine but the research I've done implies that you shouldn't really go over 200-250&amp;nbsp;mm unsupported for that width. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6988" LastEditorUserId="854" LastEditDate="2017-05-04T09:55:46.783" LastActivityDate="2018-03-30T06:56:00.040" Title="P3Steel v4 w/ 20x30 cm bed, or 2.5.1 w/ 20x20" Tags="|prusa-i3|mechanics|p3steel|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3987" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3986" CreationDate="2017-05-04T00:53:12.893" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Go for the P3Steel v4 (20x30). The extra print area is worth it. There is a Polish supplier, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ebay.co.uk/usr/printo3d&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Printo3D&lt;/a&gt;, on eBay that has the cheapest frame, and parts - cheaper than the Spanish supplier. That is where I got mine from. See &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Frame-Prusa-I3-P3Steel-v-4-0-300mm-x-200-mm/182550025648&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Frame Prusa I3 P3Steel v 4.0, 300mm x 200 mm&lt;/a&gt;, which costs around £80.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This kit uses 10 mm smooth rods for the Y axis:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Smooth stainless steel rods:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2x Ø8x385 mm for X-Axis&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2x Ø8x320 mm for Z-Axis&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2x Ø10x520 mm for Y-Axis&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Threaded stainless steel rods:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2x M5x300 mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With respect to the Y-axis carriage, the steel carriage does add a lot of weight/inertia, you are correct. This may or may not be an issue, depending on your steppers motors that you choose&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;, and their torque. That said, the 3 mm steel print bed/Y-axis carriage, &lt;em&gt;is&lt;/em&gt; ridiculously heavy, and it would be most wise to substitute it for an aluminium, plywood, or some other lightweight solution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Apart from that the 3 mm steel frame is fine and as solid as a rock. There are a number of aluminium 20x30 print beds/Y-axis carriages available on eBay and Amazon. A thorough search should reveal a few. There are also composite Y-axis carriages, I found a supplier in the Ukraine, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ebay.co.uk/usr/tehnologika_net&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;tehnologika_net&lt;/a&gt;, who, &lt;em&gt;last year&lt;/em&gt;, had a number of different types at a reasonable cost - in fact they were the cheapest that I found.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As an aside, I built mine sourcing all of the parts separately. It was a bit of a task, but an educative one. The process certainly made me understand the ins and outs a lot better than purchasing a ready built, or complete kit, 3D printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have written up some blogs regarding the kit that I purchased, see &lt;a href=&quot;https://gr33nonline.wordpress.com/2017/01/06/p3steel-from-poland-a-tale-of-dispair-dismay-and-woe/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;P3Steel from Poland – A tale of despair, dismay and woe&lt;/a&gt;. Ignore the depressing title, it really isn't that bad.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See also &lt;a href=&quot;https://gr33nonline.wordpress.com/2016/11/22/heatbeds/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Heatbeds&lt;/a&gt;. At the bottom there are some links to various alternative Y-axis carriages. However, some of the links/items may no longer be available.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may also find this question of mine useful, &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/3015/z-axis-top-brackets-of-p3steel-differ-between-v1-x-2-x-and-v4&quot;&gt;Z axis top brackets, of P3Steel, differ between v1.x/2.x and v4&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a number of modifications to the standard P3Steel, that may well be worth considering. In particular, you should note the Toolsen Edition MK2, see &lt;a href=&quot;http://scheuten.me/?page_id=708&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;P3steel toolson edition MK2&lt;/a&gt; (in German), and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1054909&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;P3steel - toolson edition&lt;/a&gt;. I have written about these, and more, see &lt;a href=&quot;https://wordpress.com/post/gr33nonline.wordpress.com/8336&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;P3Steel version 4 modifications&lt;/a&gt;. In summary, these are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bowden extruders&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Endstops&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Endstops by Toolsen&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Optical Endstops by Toolsen&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Idlers by Toolsen&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Extruder by NWRepRap&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lead screws&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Aluminium/Composite Y-axis carriage&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; I got the Rattm 17HS8401 steppers. See RepRapWiki - &lt;a href=&quot;http://reprap.org/wiki/NEMA_17_Stepper_motor&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Nema17&lt;/a&gt;. The recommended steppers are high torque:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Kysan 1124090/42BYGH4803;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rattm 17HS8401, and;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wantai 42BYGHW609&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, motors close to NEMA 17 size, with approximately the&#xA;following specifications, can also work:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1.5A to 1.8A current per phase&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1-4 volts&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;3 to 8 mH inductance per phase&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;44 N·cm (62oz·in, 4.5kg·cm) or more holding torque&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1.8 or 0.9 degrees per step (200/400 steps/rev respectively)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4762" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:29:41.667" LastActivityDate="2017-05-04T09:05:27.260" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3988" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3985" CreationDate="2017-05-04T02:51:25.273" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;This is highly dependent upon the type and quality of filament you use.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Exotic&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; materials such as wood, metalic, or otherwise infused plastics can potentially wear out the inside of the nozzle and at the very least leave deposits of composite material in the nozzle. This can lead to more frequent or irreversible clogs. You may also notice your prints becoming &quot;stringy-er&quot; (sorry for lack of vocabulary at the moment) as the volume of your nozzle reduces with more deposits sitting in the basin of the nozzle, therefore leading to lighter extrusions against what your slicer is expecting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lower quality materials (common ABS/PLA) can also have an effect on your nozzles life span. So can good quality filament, don't get me wrong. However, lower quality materials have a tendency to go through much more drastic material changes during the printing process than better quality filaments. For instance, a lower quality PLA may not be 100% PLA. It could have 10% Nylon, 5% ABS, 0.1% operator's BandAid, and 83% PLA. Well, the 17% of the filament that isn't PLA has the potential to clog the nozzle just as easily as the &lt;em&gt;exotic&lt;/em&gt; filaments. This is why it's so important to verify the quality of your source of filaments.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some signs that your nozzle may be wearing:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It simply clogs more frequently&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The printed part looks &quot;stringy&quot; or &quot;bubbly&quot;. The &quot;stringy&quot; effect is that the extruder is not extruding at a fast enough rate for the speed of the motion, which is common if your extruder is about to clog, your filament is crappy quality, or your slicing settings are invalid for your machine. The &quot;bubbly&quot; effect can be from an overheated extruder or another sign that your nozzle is about clogged.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your filament begins curling around the nozzle as it initially comes out. Typically there is a burr or something that catches the filament on its way out that you can simply take a small file to grind it off, but sometimes it may be because there is the build-up of deposits towards one side of the basin.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="98" LastActivityDate="2017-05-04T02:51:25.273" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3989" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3990" CreationDate="2017-05-04T07:17:47.683" Score="5" ViewCount="4607" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently ordered some spare E3D 0.4&amp;nbsp;mm nozzles. However, there was a mix up at the factory and they delivered 0.2&amp;nbsp;mm nozzles instead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I usually print at 0.3&amp;nbsp;mm using a 0.4&amp;nbsp;mm nozzle. Can I still use the 0.2&amp;nbsp;mm nozzles to print at a resolution of 0.3&amp;nbsp;mm? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4408" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2017-05-08T07:18:55.527" LastActivityDate="2017-05-08T07:18:55.527" Title="Can you print at 0.3 mm with a 0.2 mm nozzle?" Tags="|layer-height|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3990" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3989" CreationDate="2017-05-04T08:40:40.543" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;To get the best results, the plastic coming out of the nozzle needs to be squished/ironed down by the nozzle. If you are using a higher layer height than nozzle size, this does not happen. Instead, you are taking a 0.2mm diameter string of plastic and folding it back onto itself to create a thicker 0.3mm bead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://reprap.org/wiki/Triffid_Hunter&amp;#39;s_Calibration_Guide&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Triffid_Hunter's calibration guide&lt;/a&gt; recommends using a layer height that is not higher than 80% of your nozzle size, so with a 0.4mm nozzle you should not print layers thicker than 0.32mm, and with a 0.2mm nozzle you should not print layers thicker than 0.16mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While it is not impossible to print thicker layers with a smaller nozzle, the results won't be as good. Moreover, if you are used to working with a 0.4mm nozzle then swapping to a 0.2mm nozzle may take some getting used to, as printing with smaller nozzles is more difficult (for example, the smaller the nozzle, the higher the likelihood of clogs).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastActivityDate="2017-05-04T08:40:40.543" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3991" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3981" CreationDate="2017-05-04T11:51:34.677" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've now worked out the reason for the plastic 'running' on the second layer. It is because of the way that I prepared the G-Code file, using the option in  Slic3r which lets you alter the layer height for certain layers in the print. The problem with this appears to be that there are other settings which are not altered at the same time for the thicker layers. So the first half of the file ends up printed using the settings that work for a 0.05 mm layer height, but with the layer height set to 0.2 mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have prepared a new file by rendering two G-Code files, one using the Prusa settings for a 0.2 mm layer height, and the other using a 0.05 mm layer height. I then merged these manually by looking for the layer change at 2.8 mm in both files and appending the end of the 0.05 mm file to the start of the 0.2 mm file. (I found the layer changes by using Slic3r's custom G-Code option, and adding custom comments into the G-Code which included the layer number and height on every layer change). Then I inserted an M600 'Change filament' instruction at a height of 3.05 mm, where the writing begins.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I print this file, the problem with the plastic running together on the second layer disappears.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6981" LastActivityDate="2017-05-04T11:51:34.677" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3993" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="599" CreationDate="2017-05-04T18:04:06.207" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;TL;DR&lt;/strong&gt; - Save your money and look elsewhere.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We purchased two Replicator 5&lt;sup&gt;th&lt;/sup&gt; generation for use on two different campuses. They were purchased at the same time. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of the units was defective out of the box and was sent back and replaced. Then the extruders became clogged again and again - on both campuses - through lighter than average use, I would say. We bought two new extruders, after we got as much use as possible out of the originals. Then of course they became useless. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tech support recommended purchasing the Smart Extruder+ at a premium price, with a promise that this would solve all of our problems. They did for a short while. I must point out that these printers were not under heavy use situations. Now, we have suffered a catastrophic failure with one of the printers. Possibly a power supply issue, or main board. Time will tell...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6992" LastEditorUserId="854" LastEditDate="2017-05-04T18:49:35.157" LastActivityDate="2017-05-04T18:49:35.157" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3994" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4002" CreationDate="2017-05-04T18:18:25.673" Score="2" ViewCount="855" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have recently purchased an Anet A8 but have been wondering why the prints look squished and have tiny balls on them. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am using 1.75&amp;nbsp;mm cheap PLA bought from eBay and have also had problems of filament oozing out of the print block. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9bEPO.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Photos of squished prints&quot; title=&quot;Photos of squished prints&quot;&gt;]&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9bEPO.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Photos of squished prints&quot;&gt;1&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6994" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-07-08T11:52:16.383" LastActivityDate="2018-07-08T11:52:16.383" Title="My Anet A8 prints have been looking squished" Tags="|filament|anet-a8|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="3995" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="642" CreationDate="2017-05-04T20:46:50.390" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;For PLA, white marks disappear at just over 60°C. A warm water bath works great, as does holding it over boiling water (use tongs!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My favorite technique is to hold the part with tongs and wave it in front of the steam from a boiling tea kettle. It takes no more than a second, so you can do this on a dozen parts in rapid succession.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do this quickly, the plastic won't even soften noticeably; the white marks should disappear instantly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't want to get it wet, a heat lamp should also suffice. Holding it over a toaster for a second should work too. PLA gets soft at such a low temperature there's no need to use a heat gun, open flame, or soldering iron.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5655" LastEditorUserId="5655" LastEditDate="2019-01-24T21:02:21.897" LastActivityDate="2019-01-24T21:02:21.897" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="3996" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3997" CreationDate="2017-05-05T01:36:50.657" Score="3" ViewCount="1487" Body="&lt;p&gt;As mentioned in &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/q/3983/6853&quot;&gt;my previous question&lt;/a&gt;, I have some bed-levelling issues with my printer. Following the &lt;a href=&quot;http://minow.blogspot.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;link in @tjb1's answer&lt;/a&gt; I figured they were all about to be solved - just follow the steps and bim, bam, flat printing aligned with the plane of the bed. I was wrong. Firmware is Marlin 1.1.0-RC8&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From minow.blogspot.com:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;For Marlin in Marlin.ino.Marlin.pde&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;DELTA_RADIUS is DELTA_SMOOTH_ROD_OFFSET - DELTA_EFFECTOR_OFFSET&#xA;  -DELTA_CARRIAGE_OFFSET&#xA;              To correct the problem, the best course is to change one of the variables set earlier to force the value of DELTA_RADIUS to&#xA;  increase(to lower the extruder nozzle) or to decrease (to raise the&#xA;  nozzle).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;To lower the extruder nozzle increase DELTA_RADIUS by increasing&#xA;  DELTA_SMOOTH_ROD_OFFSET(Marlin) or PRINTER_RADIUS(Repetier).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;To raise the extruder nozzle,  decrease DELTA_RADIUS by decreasing &#xA;  DELTA_SMOOTH_ROD_OFFSET(Marlin) or PRINTER_RADIUS(Repetier). For your&#xA;  first cycle, if you are above the build surface, increase DELTA_RADIUS&#xA;  by (about) the same amount.  If the extruder nozzle hits the build&#xA;  surface, decrease DELTA_RADIUS. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Next, repeat the ABC tower calibration process.  Changing the&#xA;  DELTA_RADIUS changes the tower calibrations, so you must cycle through&#xA;  the process of adjusting the ABC buttons/scripts again.  And when the&#xA;  ABC towers are set, test the center D button/script.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;You may have to repeat this a few times with smaller changes to&#xA;  DELTA_RADIUS, but eventually, the drag on a piece of paper should be&#xA;  the same at all four locations.  Now the printer knows how to print&#xA;  flat at a given Z height.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I did that. It's about 5-6mm high in the center of the bed. On point in front of the 3 towers. And it stays pretty much there (less than one 'precision' business card movement, if any) when DELTA_SMOOTH_ROD_OFFSET is increased, increased more, or decreased, for that matter - we started wondering if there was a sign error issue and tried the other way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is mention on the page of &quot;turning off EEPROM&quot; lest values be over-ridden by those in EEPROM, but the text appears to suggest that it's a Repetier-firmware-specific problem. So I was not expecting to have it in Marlin. Does it also apply to Marlin, or:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;TL;DR mode: why would changes that &lt;em&gt;should&lt;/em&gt; affect the &quot;DELTA_RADIUS&quot; to get the printer on plane with the bed be ineffective?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gt12P.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;delta printer&quot;&gt;]&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gt12P.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;3&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6853" LastActivityDate="2018-03-30T17:51:59.663" Title="Delta printer not responding to changes in DELTA_RADIUS" Tags="|delta|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3997" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3996" CreationDate="2017-05-05T02:41:21.183" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;OK, so a little more poking around finds that it &lt;strong&gt;does&lt;/strong&gt; seem to be loading values from EEPROM and ignoring the configuration files. So that's &lt;strong&gt;not&lt;/strong&gt; Repetier-firmware-specific.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;...and I found M665 in G-code which lets me just set a value for it, then M500 saves it to said EEPROM. And it's making a difference (so much of one that I may need to reset Zmax before I can actually adjust it all out as the endpoints on the bed are now off, but they are all 4 much closer to being off by the same amount!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6853" LastEditorUserId="6853" LastEditDate="2017-05-05T03:36:17.093" LastActivityDate="2017-05-05T03:36:17.093" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3998" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3470" CreationDate="2017-05-05T04:48:41.920" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Try changing your port in the control menu. By default, mine is set to &lt;code&gt;COM 1&lt;/code&gt; and I have to change it to &lt;code&gt;COM 3&lt;/code&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6999" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2017-05-05T22:12:12.350" LastActivityDate="2017-05-05T22:12:12.350" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4000" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5523" CreationDate="2017-05-05T11:53:33.177" Score="4" ViewCount="4824" Body="&lt;p&gt;I´m currently working on a custom delta printer running Marlin 1.0.2 firmware. To control it I´m using the Repetier Host software with the onboard Cura software to slice my objects. The printing works fine but it takes the nozzle nearly 5 minutes to move from the homing position at 250&amp;nbsp;mm to the starting position of the print near z=0.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I already tried to increase the travel speed but nothing changed. Can you guys please tell me how to increase the speed of my nozzle to move down to my starting point of the print?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6008" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2017-05-09T01:33:41.850" LastActivityDate="2018-02-23T17:56:03.023" Title="Nozzle moves very slowly from home to start position" Tags="|marlin|ultimaker-cura|delta|speed|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4001" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3902" CreationDate="2017-05-05T13:52:15.033" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could use something like a Stratsys Objet 30 Pro. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The printer uses layers of liquid deposited on a bed and cured with UV light, instead of extruded plastics. This just means that the level of detail you can achieve is far higher than that typically achieved by a conventional ABS or PLA printer. That being said, the materials and machine hours tend to be more expensive than conventional printers (about 40% higher in the specific facility I am exposed to). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are well versed in 3D printing, you could play around with the air-gapping (forced overlapping of layers due to z-axis head positioning in ABS and PLA). Can cause wear on the head, and takes some playing with but in some cases has yielded me a higher perceived level of detail. Also, makes some part features stronger. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5095" LastActivityDate="2017-05-05T13:52:15.033" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4002" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3994" CreationDate="2017-05-05T18:39:46.540" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It could be that cheap filament has inconsistent diameter, or your calibration is over extruding, or you have something loose that needs to be tight.  It's hard for me to tell precisely from just these images.  In your shoes, I would print 20mm x 20mm x 10mm, 100% infill boxes until I got it dialed in so that it is square, fully filled in, but nice and flat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If they're coming out square and staying stuck to the build plate properly, but are bumpy and overfilled, then you're over extruding and you'll want to either recalibrate e-steps or if they're correct, adjust your flow rate in the slicer (down).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If they aren't square then you need to square up your frame and tighten it and the belts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But my first guess is that you're extruding too much plastic since I'll bet they were flatter when they were still on the build plate, yes?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the question of ooze: you'll always get some ooze.  Molten plastic and gravity means some will ooze out pretty much no matter what.  What you need to worry about is when this results in stringing or unwanted lines on the surface of the print.  These things you address with retraction (which reduces the pressure on the nozzle during travel moves, but can't stop gravity) and for the surface problem various travel, z-hop and combing strategies depending on your slicer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="305" LastActivityDate="2017-05-05T18:39:46.540" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4003" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3973" CreationDate="2017-05-05T20:59:55.573" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know this may be a little late, but I bought the same printer and found that I had problems also. To fix this connection issue I first made sure I had no arduino programs open that were trying the connect to the printer. These would not allow Pronterface to connect to my printer. Then if I still had issues I opened up task manager on my computer just to make sure I had no other programs trying to communicate with the printer. Then if it still can't connect I closed Pronterface and reloaded it a couple of times.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6662" LastActivityDate="2017-05-05T20:59:55.573" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4004" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3994" CreationDate="2017-05-06T18:36:23.443" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You may be having an over-extrusion issue, you should check the flow rate in whatever slicer you use. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should also check to make sure that the filament diameter you are using matches that of the diameter setting in your slicer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7019" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2017-05-17T05:58:02.477" LastActivityDate="2017-05-17T05:58:02.477" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4005" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3902" CreationDate="2017-05-06T18:41:02.683" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sla printers would be the best, but if you are using an FDM printer, set it to a lower speed and male sure you get the orientation right so that most of the edges don't get ruined by supports. You should also get a higher quality 0.2mm nozzle and set it to the lowest layer height you can achieve on your slicer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7019" LastActivityDate="2017-05-06T18:41:02.683" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4006" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4000" CreationDate="2017-05-06T18:43:25.153" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Try changing the travel speed in you r slicer, if that doesn't work , try changing out the motors for newer ones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7019" LastActivityDate="2017-05-06T18:43:25.153" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4007" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3823" CreationDate="2017-05-06T18:49:39.510" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Make sure you are using cura 15.02.1, also download the configuration file from the 101hero website, and upload it to cura using the&quot; open profile&quot; button. Make sure your extruder temp is set to 198. I use a 113% flow rate on my 101hero.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7019" LastActivityDate="2017-05-06T18:49:39.510" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4008" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3351" CreationDate="2017-05-07T02:30:44.037" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm guessing you have the Anet sensor? If so and you are using the stock firmware that came with your A8 - it's not going to recognise the sensor  but you can download and flash the Anet A8L firmware that is designed to run with the sensor from the Anet site -  I stumbled on this while searching for stock firmware.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope this helps you out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7024" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2017-05-09T01:33:31.993" LastActivityDate="2017-05-09T01:33:31.993" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4010" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4011" CreationDate="2017-05-07T20:15:46.773" Score="4" ViewCount="780" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Background:&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;em&gt;I have many years of experience with AVR and ARM Cortex PLCs and I feel very comfortable using them in projects but I am not an EE or SE. So, if I make a mistake or misunderstand something, keep that in mind. Thanks.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I cracked open the case on my Maker Select v2.1 and I noticed that I have a 2x3 header that is labeled ISP. This is fairly standard for the AVR PLCs and the Melzi board that I have uses the ATMEGA1284P.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have asked at numerous forums and nobody seems to really know the answer (the downside to RepRap--people use but don't fully understand).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm wondering if I can tweak the Repetier firmware (I'm using the stock version 0.91) to use the ISP headers as a standard SPI bus. It has the SCK, MOSI, and MISO pins but it doesn't have the SS pin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I want to do is put a port expander on the SPI bus and break out additional usable GPIOs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, is there a hardware limitation or any other reason why I wouldn't be able to repurpose the ISP headers into an SPI bus?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastActivityDate="2018-11-05T00:29:52.300" Title="Can I repurpose the ISP pins in the lower right corner of the Melzi board?" Tags="|reprap|repetier|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4011" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4010" CreationDate="2017-05-07T20:55:27.000" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;In theory, you can; but, you may need those pins to attach an external programmer to bring your system back to life when playing around with the code.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are a couple of articles that could help if you still want to pursue that path:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/83108/can-spi-programmer-interfere-with-other-components-on-same-pins&quot;&gt;Can SPI programmer interfere with other components on same pins?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.avrfreaks.net/forum/can-i-reuse-isp-pins-other-taskstarget-atmega164p&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Can I reuse ISP pins for other tasks?(Target: Atmega164p)&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another option (the one I chose) is to just buy a RAMPS board set.  I got one on ebay for $19 and it have lots of more options for IO.  That way you can play and still go back and plug in your stock Melzi and print whenever you need it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I got all this for $40 - boards, display, cables, power supply, and even shipping&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KKtgp.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KKtgp.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a really nice detailed description of &lt;a href=&quot;http://beginner3dprinter.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;converting a Duplicator i3 from Melzi to RAMPS&lt;/a&gt;.  The process would likely be very similar for your printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The biggest challenge will likely be setting up the firmware&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;BTW, what printer did you get?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6417" LastEditorUserId="6417" LastEditDate="2017-05-12T03:09:01.907" LastActivityDate="2017-05-12T03:09:01.907" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4012" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4013" CreationDate="2017-05-08T14:28:36.757" Score="1" ViewCount="1905" Body="&lt;p&gt;TL;DR - For a given Kossel frame size (w.r.t. the vertical and horizontal frame lengths of the aluminium extrusion), what would the length of the carbon fibre rods be?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A case in point, from &lt;a href=&quot;http://reprap.org/wiki/Kossel&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;RepRapWiki - Kossel&lt;/a&gt;, there is an intriguing note about a scaled down Kossel:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Optionally scale down to a Traveling RepRap that fits within IATA hand&#xA;  luggage size limit (see transportation):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Frame height: 550&amp;nbsp;mm.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Footprint: triangle, 270&amp;nbsp;mm width, 250 mm across (210&amp;nbsp;mm 15 x 15&amp;nbsp;mm aluminium extrusion like OpenBeam + printed corners).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, there is no mention of the length of the carbon fibre rods (carbon tubes).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, as per my previous question, &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/3965/for-a-larger-build-volume-what-lengths-of-2020-aluminium-do-i-need&quot;&gt;For a larger build volume, what lengths of 2020 aluminium do I need?&lt;/a&gt;, is there a formula or ratio by which one needs to abide? Whereas in my previous question, the answer was along the lines of: &lt;em&gt;Not really, you can use any lengths, within reason, and account for it later in the firmware&lt;/em&gt;, I would imagine that the Delta aspect of the printer is somewhat more exacting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have tried googling for further information on this Travelling Kossel, but found nothing, except for the information of RepRapWiki.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looking at the corresponding lengths (vertical/horizontal) of the aluminium versus those of the carbon fibre rods for the Mini and XL:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;600/240 mm versus 180 mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;750/360 mm versus 300 mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I really can not see what the (trigonometric) relationship is, and therefore can not deduce the lengths of the carbon rods for the Travelling Kossel. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unless it is simply that the carbon rods are 60&amp;nbsp;mm shorter than the aluminium horizontals? Is it really as simple as that, or is this just a coincidence? In which case, would the carbon rods be (210 - 60 =) 150&amp;nbsp;mm?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By extension, imagine if you wanted to build a Kossel XXXL, with a horizontal aluminium extrusion length of, let's say, 1000&amp;nbsp;mm, would the length of the carbon rods be 940&amp;nbsp;mm?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4762" LastActivityDate="2017-05-15T06:33:52.097" Title="How long are the carbon fibre rods for a Travelling Kossel?" Tags="|printer-building|diy-3d-printer|kossel|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4013" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4012" CreationDate="2017-05-08T17:14:01.997" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most information I was able to find was the arms are 80% the length of the horizontal structure.  I did find a copy of the original Google Sheets that everyone used a few years ago &lt;a href=&quot;https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0AgfeWBRJAc7PdHZCa1A1eWFEdnhGaHBpeWxwbDBPQXc&amp;amp;usp=sharing&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.  The source of that link did mention that there may have been some issues with it but all of those links were dead ends.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some things to note:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The height doesn't matter, it has no relationship with the arms other than you are losing approximately the arm length from the height when figuring print area as some arms will approach vertical when reaching the outsides of your print area.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The arm length isn't terribly important from what I could find.  Longer arms = less travel of the carriages and possibly lower resolution.  Shorter arms = more travel of the carriages and possibly lower print speed due to required movement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="233" LastActivityDate="2017-05-08T17:14:01.997" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4014" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-05-08T20:42:26.763" Score="5" ViewCount="3153" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm using Marlin 1.1.0RC8 to control an MPCNC, using a RAMPS1.4. We've just added a touch-plate to do Z-probing, which works nicely for a single probe (I just want calibrated height for variant bit-lengths, not bed-leveling, but I think it amounts to the same thing). I've set it up in Marlin as &lt;em&gt;FIX_MOUNTED_PROBE&lt;/em&gt;, which seems closest. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can make it do a &lt;code&gt;G38.2 Z-50&lt;/code&gt;, &lt;code&gt;G92 Z12.6&lt;/code&gt; (which sets Z to the height of the touch-plate, 12.6mm), which is ok to be going on with, but it seems I'm having to hard-code the Z offset, which I'm sure should really be set by eg &lt;code&gt;Z_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER&lt;/code&gt; or &lt;code&gt;M851&lt;/code&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My feeling was that I should be able to invoke a G-code &lt;code&gt;G30&lt;/code&gt;, and it would do a nice fast-slow double tap, do the equivalent of a &lt;code&gt;G92 Z+zzz&lt;/code&gt; to set that height and then withdraw to a safe height. And after a bit of config, it does exactly that...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;... except it doesn't do anything with the height that it measured! Seems odd. The &lt;code&gt;G30&lt;/code&gt; code seems to be an elaborate way to move the head up by the clearance amount, via a touch-plate (with the added excitement of being able to crash the bed if anything goes wrong)! What's the point?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Have I misunderstood what &lt;code&gt;G30&lt;/code&gt; is meant to do? I've read &lt;a href=&quot;http://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/G030.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;the docs here&lt;/a&gt;, and traced through &lt;code&gt;Marlin_main.cpp&lt;/code&gt; and there really is no &quot;outcome&quot;. Unless I've missed something?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="895" LastActivityDate="2019-07-29T12:10:54.737" Title="What does Marlin's G30 code do?" Tags="|marlin|ramps-1.4|g-code|z-probe|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4015" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3861" CreationDate="2017-05-08T21:00:47.037" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have not been able to find a simple model for FDM part strength.  FDM parts are pretty complicated as they have a LOT more things that affect their strength than just layer adhesion.  Since any &quot;solid&quot; part will have infill, the part can't really be modeled as a laminant.  There are so many settings you can play with in the slicer that effects part strength, the model would have to have tens (if not hundreds) of parameters.  Also, you would likely have to establish them for your own printer since lots of things can affect them (like room temp, ventilation, humidity, material, material storage, ...)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One empirical example discussing the affects of FDM choices on part strength is a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OqRbSkX5IJk&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;video&lt;/a&gt; done by Angus at Marker's Muse.  In the video he discussed how orientation and wall thickness affects strength.  Angus is not a math/ME guy (by his own admission).  FEA or other modeling would not be his approach; but, you can get some insight from his experience.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the modeling front, I have seen one company that did create an FEA model to test whether their product would be strong enough if they produced it using FDM.  Here is the &lt;a href=&quot;http://my3dmatter.com/fea-for-fdm-3d-printing/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;publication&lt;/a&gt; they wrote showing their analysis approach.  It will give you some insight on how they approached what I think you want to do.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: They do offer a &lt;a href=&quot;http://my3dmatter.com/optimatter/fea-order/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;service&lt;/a&gt; where you can pay to have your part analyzed for a considerable amount of money.  I have no idea how much money; but, based on jobs I have quoted in the past, I would expect it would be a least a few hundreds dollars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for me, I really enjoy basing my decisions on models and understanding how a part/process works. In this case; however, an empirical/experimental approach might be more cost effective.  If you really want to take an analytical approach (and have the time to spend doing it), I would recommend choosing several key parameters and run an analysis using &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.isixsigma.com/tools-templates/design-of-experiments-doe/design-experiments-%E2%90%93-primer/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;DOE&lt;/a&gt; (Design of Experiments).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you come up with something, I would love to see it posted here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck and happy printing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6417" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-09-14T08:47:27.200" LastActivityDate="2018-09-14T08:47:27.200" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4016" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3973" CreationDate="2017-05-09T03:23:17.440" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Only one application can access the Arduino Mega board, via the COM port, at a time. Sometimes, the software can get confused, and keep hold of the COM port, although this is unusual. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, if you are connected to your board via Pronterface, and without clicking on Pronterface's Disconnect button first, you then try to upload some code to the Arduino via the Arduino IDE, the Arduino IDE will just sit there complaining that it can not connect - usually with an error, or a timeout message, like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;avrdude: stk500v2_ReceiveMessage(): timeout&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See the video tutorial, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QuEhQU8vGZk&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;#18: Calibration&lt;/a&gt;, by &lt;a href=&quot;http://Build%20A%203D%20Printer.eu&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;BuildA3DPrinter&lt;/a&gt;. It is a long video, but extremely informative. At 2:20 he has this exact problem. In fact, throughout the video, the instructor &lt;em&gt;constantly&lt;/em&gt; reminds the viewer to disconnect from Pronterface &lt;em&gt;before&lt;/em&gt; attempting to upload new firmware via the Arduino IDE.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, I know that this is the opposite of your issue, as your can not connect using Pronterface, after using the Arduino IDE, as opposed to the other way around, as shown in the video. However, the solution is most probably the same... Momentarily, disconnect the Arduino board from the USB (i.e. unplug the USB cable for a few seconds and then reconnect it). Then, &lt;em&gt;without&lt;/em&gt; using the Arduino IDE, now try to connect Pronterface. It should now work - assuming that you have selected the correct COM port, baud rate etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4762" LastActivityDate="2017-05-09T03:23:17.440" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4017" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3738" CreationDate="2017-05-09T05:56:31.173" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;First, copyright laws are complex and depend heavily on the specific details.  IMO, your question is really too broad to answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An interesting example of how details and interpretation affect whether something is a violation or not is &lt;a href=&quot;http://fairuse.stanford.edu/2014/12/22/much-photo-need-alter-avoid-copyright-infringement-hint-cheshire-cat/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Kienitz v Sconnie Nation&lt;/a&gt;.  In this case a copyrighted photo was clearly copied, modified, and used to make a t-shirt that was sold; but, it was not deemed a copyright violation.  On the surface it seems like a violation; but, the court ruled it was not a copyright violation because of the specific details of the case.  Using something as a starting point for a unique creative work that is clearly your own creation is not copying.  I am sure you can tell the difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second, in your description you mention &quot;Free Use&quot;.  If the owner has granted &quot;Free Use&quot; of their product; but, they are still wanting to declare the item copyrighted, I would hope that they have granted that &quot;Free Use&quot; under a defined agreement.  In that case, it would seem likely that the creator may just be trying to protect his design from being plagiarized and/or sold/used in a way that is against his intent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have a way to contact the owner, why not just contact them and ask their permission for what you want to do.  If they have put it out for public use, they would probably be excited to have other people see their creation.  Just make sure they gets the credit for the design.  If it is a creation they are intending to protect (like Disney does with Mickey Mouse); then, the answer will be an unequivocal no.  Note that one weird exception is that Disney has granted use rights for Donald Duck to the University of Oregon &quot;Ducks&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, you state that that your intent is &quot;for no purpose of using, distributing, creating, mixing, ...&quot; and you list almost every way of making it public.  If your intent is for what you make/copy to never make it into the public domain; then, how will your question ever be anything other than hypothetical?  I know that there is presently no &quot;private use&quot; exclusion for copyrighted material.  It isn't legal to copy someone's DVD for you to watch privately; but, in reality, no one gets prosecuted for a single private instance.  It is abuse that gets prosecuted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In what you intend, it would seem that you be best suited to seek out first what would be the &quot;right&quot; thing to do rather than just focusing on what would be &quot;legal&quot;.  If you are concerned what you want to do may be wrong and/or illegal, it is probably best to not do it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6417" LastEditorUserId="6417" LastEditDate="2017-05-09T06:05:05.463" LastActivityDate="2017-05-09T06:05:05.463" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4018" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-05-09T08:58:14.313" Score="3" ViewCount="9970" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Tevo Tarantula 3D printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to print a calibration cube. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The slicer is Cura and is set for a 1.75&amp;nbsp;mm filament extruded by a nozzle of 0.4&amp;nbsp;mm, with a heat bed temperature of 60°C and extruder 200°C. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As seen in the image I stopped the printer after a minute, when I noticed that the filament wasn't sticking to the hotbed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zdPaw.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zdPaw.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Photo of filament not adhering the printbed&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've also made other tests, but the result is the same - the upper right part of the print lifts and touches the moving nozzle. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How could I resolve this? Any advice? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7045" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-10-02T19:50:30.480" LastActivityDate="2019-01-03T09:10:25.563" Title="Filament lifts from the hot bed while printing" Tags="|filament|ultimaker-cura|adhesion|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4019" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4018" CreationDate="2017-05-09T11:08:32.860" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't have this specific printer but this used to happen to me as well on my D-Bot. The reason being bed not being leveled properly. Ensure that your bed is leveled such that the distance between the nozzle and bed is about 0.2mm after homing. Also coat your bed with something sticky like glue or hairspray. You won't need this if you are using a PEI sheet. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5113" LastActivityDate="2017-05-09T11:08:32.860" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4020" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3884" CreationDate="2017-05-09T12:14:47.353" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Based on the links and insights provided, I was able to adjust my design to that shown in Edit 2.  I opted to instead have it professionally printed via Sculpteo for a very reasonable price, and can say that the design works as intended.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6822" LastActivityDate="2017-05-09T12:14:47.353" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4021" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4018" CreationDate="2017-05-09T12:37:59.490" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Check the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is the print bed clean? On glass, you can use a few squirts of window cleaner.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is the print bed actually reaching the correct temperature? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Have you manually calibrated the printer (at both the center and the edges), such that you can just about get a sheet of paper between the print bed and the hotend nozzle, at z = 0? This last check ensures that the first printed layer of extruded filament is actually touching and &quot;presses on&quot; to the print bed. See the video &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QuEhQU8vGZk&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;#18:Calibration&lt;/a&gt; for a great explanation on the use of the paper. Whilst this video is for a Delta printer, it clearly demonstrates the height that the zeroed print head should be at, and how to check using a sheet paper.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Maybe the filament, for the first few layers, should be heated at a high temperature, than the rest of the print, to ensure adhesion.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If all of the above are checked and OK, then (as &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/5113/electrophile&quot;&gt;electrophile&lt;/a&gt; points out in &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/4018/filament-lifts-from-the-hot-bed-while-printing#answer-4019&quot;&gt;their answer&lt;/a&gt;) try making the print head more grippy. This can be achieved by simply adding a &lt;em&gt;thin coating&lt;/em&gt; to the glass with one of the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wiping the glass with a glue stick or wood glue&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Using hairspray&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both use PVA as an adhesive/stiffener.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or by adding an additional &lt;em&gt;print surface&lt;/em&gt;, such as:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Using blue painters tape&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Using PEI tape&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Using Kapton tape&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Using &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.buildtak.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;BuildTak&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If adding tape, then the printer may require a small re-calibration, due to the thickness of the tape adding a few microns to the print bed height. This can be done in the firmware.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4762" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2019-01-03T09:10:25.563" LastActivityDate="2019-01-03T09:10:25.563" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4022" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4037" CreationDate="2017-05-09T14:06:03.460" Score="3" ViewCount="564" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm using &lt;code&gt;M80&lt;/code&gt; and &lt;code&gt;M81&lt;/code&gt; G-codes to power on/off power supply. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a G-code to know the actual state of the power supply?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7051" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2017-05-09T22:23:43.323" LastActivityDate="2018-11-26T12:33:58.580" Title="Is there a G-code to get power supply state?" Tags="|marlin|reprap|g-code|switching-power-supply|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4023" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4022" CreationDate="2017-05-09T14:12:43.393" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't see one at &lt;a href=&quot;http://reprap.org/wiki/G-code&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://reprap.org/wiki/G-code&lt;/a&gt; so it's probably safest to set the power supply to the state you want.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4922" LastActivityDate="2017-05-09T14:12:43.393" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4024" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3994" CreationDate="2017-05-09T15:06:09.703" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;So, I think iv diagnosed the problem with the help from you and some guys from Thingiverse &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/groups/anet-a8-prusa-i3/topic:15005&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.thingiverse.com/groups/anet-a8-prusa-i3/topic:15005&lt;/a&gt;. I think it is a combination of over extrusion and the hotend. The Hotend was leaking so I have fitted a new one. Unfortunately, the thermostat has broken so I have bought a new one. I will keep you updated and thank you for all of the support, Thomas.  Hotend Leaking: &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yYqd1.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yYqd1.jpg&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6994" LastActivityDate="2017-05-09T15:06:09.703" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4025" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3924" CreationDate="2017-05-09T15:41:12.940" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had a similar problem last week where the thermostat's heat shrink was being melted by the block and the two wires were touching. I fixed this by securing the thermistor and putting a thermal insulator between the block and the wires. I also put a small piece of heat shrink between the wires to insulate them so they will never touch. Thank you and I hope this helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6994" LastEditorUserId="6994" LastEditDate="2017-05-10T15:39:04.920" LastActivityDate="2017-05-10T15:39:04.920" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4026" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4030" CreationDate="2017-05-09T16:58:42.367" Score="5" ViewCount="3810" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have had many problems with my heat shrink for the thermostat on my Anet A8 melting from the heat block. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a way I can insulate my wires from heat but still have enough room to put the thermistor into the block?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6994" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2017-05-10T06:56:32.540" LastActivityDate="2017-05-14T21:07:53.670" Title="How can I insulate my thermistor?" Tags="|heat-management|thermistor|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4027" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4026" CreationDate="2017-05-09T17:16:47.433" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could use Kapton tape to tape the thermistor. It is usually the best option for sticking something onto the hotend or on the heat block. You will also have less trouble since it is very thin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that if you use Kapton tape, you should use several layers of it for added insulation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6938" LastActivityDate="2017-05-09T17:16:47.433" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4028" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4026" CreationDate="2017-05-09T17:56:11.013" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can use kapton tape, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.seemecnc.com/collections/parts-accessories/products/small-ptfe-tubing-per-foot&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;small PTFE tube&lt;/a&gt;, or &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B00KBSWRDO&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;silicone tape&lt;/a&gt;. I use PTFE on my delta printer (I do have a silicone tape wrapped around my heat block, but that's to help with keeping the heat in the block, not for eletrical insulation (although it would work for that)). These will all handle the temperatures of your heat block fairly well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2017-05-09T17:56:11.013" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4030" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4026" CreationDate="2017-05-10T06:58:19.893" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;For an illustration of how to employ the Kapton tape, that is mentioned in the answers from Harvey Lim  and Howler, watch &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0EIFIAWiPdU&amp;amp;t=1290&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;How to build a RepRap Prusa i3 (Assembly 7)&lt;/a&gt; at 21:30:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IEr3y.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IEr3y.png&quot; alt=&quot;Kapton tape on hotend&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0EIFIAWiPdU&amp;amp;t=910&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;15:10&lt;/a&gt; the heater and thermistor is connected up, you may find this also useful. Note that, at &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0EIFIAWiPdU&amp;amp;t=1245&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;20:45&lt;/a&gt;, the heatshrink is only used over the soldered connection, and &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; all the way up to the heatblock:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/i2k2W.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/i2k2W.png&quot; alt=&quot;Heatshrink on thermistor&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, more pertinent to your printer, from &lt;a href=&quot;https://pevly.com/anet-a8-3d-printer-review/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Anet A8 Review – Best cheap 3D Printer?&lt;/a&gt;, see that the thermistor wires are also wrapped in Kapton tape in this photo:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mjVNQ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mjVNQ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Thermistor wires are also wrapped in Kapton tape&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that the Kapton tape is wrapped around the wires, almost right up to the thermistor, and will be touching the heating block, when the thermistor is inserted into the hole - there is no problem of it melting, due to its high melting point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4762" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2017-05-14T21:07:53.670" LastActivityDate="2017-05-14T21:07:53.670" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4031" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4034" CreationDate="2017-05-10T09:31:33.463" Score="7" ViewCount="20884" Body="&lt;p&gt;By &amp;quot;better&amp;quot; I mean &amp;quot;more precise&amp;quot;...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With respect to a RepRap P3Steel or Wilson II, I am getting some 330 mm T8 leadscrews for the Z-axis movement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There seems to be a choice between a &lt;em&gt;lead&lt;/em&gt; of 1, 2 or 8 mm - the &lt;em&gt;pitch&lt;/em&gt; is 1 mm in the first case and 2 mm in the last two cases&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;. However, there is precious little information about the advantages and disadvantages of each lead size in &lt;a href=&quot;http://reprap.org/wiki/Threaded_rod#Leadscrew&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;RepRapWiki - Threaded Rod - Leadscrew&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems to me that using a leadscrew with a 1 or 2 mm lead could result in a more precise Z-axis movement, as one rotation of the stepper results in a smaller increment in height. Therefore the layer thicknesses could be smaller.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, is the minimum layer thickness not, also, dictated by the thickness of the filament, horizontal speed of the print head, nozzle size, etc.? Thus, at some point there would be no need for a super fine vertical resolution from the leadscrew, as it may be constrained by other limiting factors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, conversely, the use of a 2 mm lead would mean that the stepper would need to &amp;quot;work&amp;quot; four times as hard, than when using 8 mm, in order to raise the print head the same distance, as well as making the movement, during a &amp;quot;home&amp;quot;, take four times as long (or, if you will, four times slower). In the case of a 1 mm lead that would become eight times...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;TL;DR&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it worth getting a leadscrew with a 2 mm lead, or is 8 mm sufficient?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By extension, would a 1 mm lead be even better, or just overkill?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Footnote&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; Nomenclature:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Pitch&lt;/strong&gt; is the distance between the adjacent threads;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Lead&lt;/strong&gt; is the distance that a nut will turn with one rotation, and;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Start&lt;/strong&gt; is how many starting (or thread entry) points at either end.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, for a leadscrew, with a &lt;em&gt;pitch&lt;/em&gt; of 2 mm, if there is only one &lt;em&gt;start&lt;/em&gt; to the screw then the lead is the same as the pitch. However, if there are four &lt;em&gt;starts&lt;/em&gt; to the screw, then the lead will be 8 mm. If there are two &lt;em&gt;starts&lt;/em&gt; to the screw, then the lead will be 4 mm. And so on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For more information, see &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Screw_thread#Lead.2C_pitch.2C_and_starts&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Wikipedia - Lead, pitch and starts&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4762" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:29:41.667" LastActivityDate="2020-03-14T13:51:37.190" Title="Would using a leadscrew with 1 or 2 mm lead, en lieu of 8 mm, result in a better printer?" Tags="|diy-3d-printer|printer-building|lead-screw|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4032" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-05-10T09:57:08.057" Score="2" ViewCount="878" Body="&lt;p&gt;When you have Auto Mesh Bed Leveling enabled on your printer, it's not possible to continue a failed print, is it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4408" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2017-05-13T19:41:41.663" LastActivityDate="2022-05-11T21:22:14.053" Title="Continuing a failed print when you have Auto Mesh Bed Leveling" Tags="|diy-3d-printer|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4033" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4032" CreationDate="2017-05-10T11:02:54.963" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Continuing a failed print has nothing to do with automatic bed leveling. It has everything to do with knowing which line failed, repositioning to resume from that point, and resuming from that line of code.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4922" LastActivityDate="2017-05-10T11:02:54.963" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4034" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4031" CreationDate="2017-05-10T14:22:54.303" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Based on what I've learned over 8 months of printing:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What matters the most is getting a very accurate zero relative to the bed surface.  An offset of 30 or 40 microns can strongly affect first-layer adhesion.  Now, unless you put in some of the advanced auto-levelling sensors, the repeatability of the Z-axis limit switch may outweigh the precision of the lead screw itself.  But if you've got a good limit sensor, then the more precision in the lead screw, the better you can set (and repeat) the position of the first layer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't see a significant difference in strain on the drive motors if they have to run longer per mm of z-drive - just make sure the lead screws are clean :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2191" LastActivityDate="2017-05-10T14:22:54.303" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4035" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4026" CreationDate="2017-05-10T15:36:23.887" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ok, so I think I have found the answer. You can get cotton wraps for print heads with some Kapton tape on them, see &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/10Pcs-3mm-Thickness-3D-Printer-Heating-Cotton-Hotend-Nozzle-Heat-Insulation-/391778166929&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;10Pcs 3mm Thickness 3D Printer Heating Cotton Hotend Nozzle Heat Insulation&lt;/a&gt;. I think this will work best as long as it doesn't catch on fire. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please let me know if there is a better alternative but for now I will use these. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6994" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2017-05-13T19:41:47.783" LastActivityDate="2017-05-13T19:41:47.783" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4036" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3097" CreationDate="2017-05-10T20:18:33.313" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have not used MDF for building a printer before; but, I have used it for other projects.  It has the advantage of being very flat (initially); but, it has a LOT of issues with moisture.  It is basically just a compressed slurry or water-based glue and sawdust.  If you expose it to humidity or water it will swell like a sponge.  I would not consider it for anything that requires a dimensional stability.  For that, Aluminum is your better bet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regarding the material properties of AL vs MDF, here is a good comparison:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.makeitfrom.com/compare/1060-Al99.6-A91060-Aluminum/Medium-Density-Fiberboard-MDF&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1E03Z.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;AL vs. MDF&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that while MDF has about 1/4 the density of AL, it has a MUCH lower Elastic Modulus (1/17 of AL) For the same thickness, it MDF is MUCH easier to bend than AL.  Also note the strength to weight ratio of AL is also better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even at twice the thickness, my calculations indicate that, for the same load, 6mm MDF would deflect about twice as far as 3mm AL. Also when AL exists its elastic region it becomes plastic (bends) where MDF breaks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another aspect to consider is flammability.  There a lot of heat sources around an FDM printer and if you are planning on a heated bed, there is one right there under the bed.  Where MDF is hard to ignite, it is flammable and does not respond to heat well.  On the other hand, AL can handle temperatures over 1000 degC and is a great thermal conductor for a bed heater.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would definitely choose AL over MDF for you printer bed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another option to consider it is using a bare PCB (like &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/FR-4&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;FR4&lt;/a&gt;).  The material is really strong (it is fiberglass), is relatively inexpensive, and is fire resistant (hence the&quot;FR&quot; in the name).  Some commercial printers use FR4 for their print bed.  One disadvantage is that is can sometimes develop a curl and there is really no way to get it flat again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6417" LastEditorUserId="6417" LastEditDate="2017-05-11T19:50:05.807" LastActivityDate="2017-05-11T19:50:05.807" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4037" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4022" CreationDate="2017-05-10T23:40:37.333" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Thanks! I confirmed that there isn't such a G-code.&#xA;I sent a pull request to make this posible:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/pull/6671&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/pull/6671&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, &quot;M80 S&quot; reports the current state of the power supply.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7051" LastEditorUserId="854" LastEditDate="2017-05-13T23:12:29.567" LastActivityDate="2017-05-13T23:12:29.567" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4038" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4031" CreationDate="2017-05-11T03:28:05.050" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;From &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.protoparadigm.com/news-updates/accuracy-vs-precision-and-threaded-rod-vs-leadscrews-in-3d-printers/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Accuracy vs Precision and Threaded Rod vs Leadscrews in 3D Printers&lt;/a&gt;. I have highlighted the relevant parts:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In general, FFF/FDM printers use relatively infrequent, small, precise&#xA;movements on the z-axis and consistent, fast movements on the x and y&#xA;axes. &lt;strong&gt;A single start leadscrew with the tightest pitch possible&#xA;(highest thread density, smallest pitch) is generally going to be your&#xA;best bet for the z-axis&lt;/strong&gt;, while you may or may not need something a&#xA;little steeper to get the speeds you'd like from your x and y axes.&#xA;While this may seem somewhat arbitrary given the precision of movement&#xA;you can get from a stepper motor, an important factor to remember here&#xA;is torque.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;A more aggressive leadscrew will require more torque to drive&lt;/strong&gt;. We have&#xA;one kit printer we bought a couple years ago that has an overly&#xA;aggressive multi-start leadscrew for the z-axis. The small motors&#xA;included in the kit do not have the torque required to reliably start&#xA;upward movement of the carriage, leaving it sitting there skipping&#xA;steps until the carriage is given a little upward nudge to get it&#xA;going (no, it's not a lubrication issue or a driver that needs turning&#xA;up).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, a 2 mm lead is preferable to a 8 mm lead, as not only is less torque required, but also more precise movements are obtainable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With respect to the layer heights, I found this nugget of information, from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.3ders.org/articles/20151127-ditch-the-threaded-rod-in-your-reprap-3d-printer-and-upgrade-to-a-lead-screw-z-axis.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Ditch the threaded rod in your RepRap 3D printer and upgrade to a lead screw z-axis&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's always better to use layer heights that are a multiple of your&#xA;full step. If you trust in your micro-stepping you will get poor&#xA;results because torque is very poor and the motor won't stop very&#xA;precisely. Best approach is to use a lead screw (whose longer step&#xA;allows the gravity to work for you and eliminate backlash) and a&#xA;stepper driver configured to 1/4 micro-step for low noise, but not for&#xA;micro-layering. I always use multiples of my full step and have&#xA;printed 0.040 (1 step), 0.080 (2 steps), 0.120 (3 steps and so on), 0.200,&#xA;0.600 and 0.800 mm (of course using 2 different nozzles). Do you need&#xA;more than that?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See also &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.reddit.com/r/Reprap/comments/4yd9t7/lead_screw_opinions/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Reddit - Lead screw opinions&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the general consensus is that a 2 mm lead is preferable to a 8 mm lead:&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lower the lead the better for an Z-Axis screw to allow for more precision.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;No need for anti-backlash nuts for a Z-Axis if it has a decent amount of mass/weight to it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 mm will slow the printer down, but provide 0.005 mm (5μm) vertical movement:&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's going to be awfully slow when homing. While you really don't&#xA;need speed for the z-axis, there's not much point in going with such a&#xA;low pitch... you won't be printing anywhere near the layer heights&#xA;that can achieve. In the end I guess it's not a big deal, but I don't&#xA;see any reason to go below about a 4 mm pitch. A 1 mm pitch with a 1.8°&#xA;stepper gives you 0.005 mm increments. Anything under 0.02 mm (which is&#xA;sort of ridiculous anyways) is just unnecessary. Just my thoughts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;(As Tom &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/4031/would-using-a-leadscrew-with-1-or-2-mm-lead-en-lieu-of-8-mm-result-in-a-better/4038#comment5535_4038&quot;&gt;points out&lt;/a&gt;) An 8 mm lead can result in the weight of the X-axis gantry (especially in a P3Steel) overcoming the idle torque of the stepper. As a result of this, the X-axis gantry can end up sliding down the leadscrew, in particular at power down:&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have lead screws on my Z and it readily falls down if you kill the power. Regular threaded rod is much better at keeping it in place without power.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's one of the problems with 8mm lead ;) With 2mm lead it will hold itself. The stepper motor provides a fair amount of resistance even when powered down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;TL;DR&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Be wary of leadscrews with a &lt;em&gt;lead&lt;/em&gt;, as opposed to a &lt;em&gt;pitch&lt;/em&gt;, of 8 mm, as there are disadvantages, when compared to a lesser lead of, say, 4 mm, or 2 mm (or 1 mm for leadscrew with a pitch of 1 mm):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Higher torque may be required&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Less accuracy&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Possibility of slippage, of the X-axis, once power is removed, or stepper is disabled&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Anti backlash nuts required&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, their major (if you can call it that) advantage is a higher maximum movement speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4762" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:29:41.667" LastActivityDate="2017-06-19T07:47:24.153" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4039" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4014" CreationDate="2017-05-11T04:06:54.840" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I believe &lt;code&gt;G30&lt;/code&gt; is a carry-over from CNC (G-code originated for CNC not printers)&#xA;I believe it is for going to a secondary reference (home) position and includes an optional by-way-of address that can be included in the command.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looking at Marlin 1.1.0-1 (latest release), it seems to do what you said:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Move to the requested position (if selected in command, else N/C)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Deploy probe&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Go home&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Stowe probe&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Report the requested position and probed Z position&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Report the current position (home?)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It appears that for Marlin, there is only one reference address (home); so, it would seem a &lt;code&gt;G30&lt;/code&gt; would be the same as a &lt;code&gt;G28&lt;/code&gt; (go to primary reference); but, not so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It looks like &lt;code&gt;G28&lt;/code&gt; is a home of a different color.  It looks like it homes the axis one-at-a-time and does not support a by-way-of location.  Note that you can select which axis to home by adding the letters 'X' 'Y' and/or 'Z' to the command.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am not sure what benefit this command has for a 3D Printer other than allowing you to alter the printer's path to home.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: Unfortunately I do not have Marlin code up and running on my printer now so I cannot confirm what I am seeing in the code.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6417" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-07-29T12:10:54.737" LastActivityDate="2019-07-29T12:10:54.737" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4040" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3705" CreationDate="2017-05-11T07:39:00.907" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Two immediate issues I can think of are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do the floppy drive and DVD drive stepper motors have sufficient torque to turn whatever you have connected them to? You don't say what sort of printer you have built, but a holding toque of 44 N·cm (62oz·in, 4.5kg·cm) or more, is desirable. Maybe you should consider upgrading your floppy ad DVD drive motors to Nema 17 motors... See &lt;a href=&quot;http://reprap.org/wiki/NEMA_17_Stepper_motor&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;RepRapWiki - Nema 17&lt;/a&gt; for more details.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do you have the correct thermistor selected in the firmware? Check your firmware configuration file.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To further check the thermistor, disconnect it from the RAMPS board, and using a multimeter, check its resistance at room temperature. Then compare it with the temperature characteristic graph of &lt;em&gt;your&lt;/em&gt; thermistor type. A general 10K thermistor has the following response curve (&lt;a href=&quot;http://arroyoinstruments.com/images/cms/sized/Thermistor%20Response%20Curve1.gif&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;source&lt;/a&gt;):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aSJoX.gif&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aSJoX.gif&quot; alt=&quot;Thermistor response curve&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does the reading that your multimeter gives, seem reasonable?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also check the RAMPS thermistor input, by shorting the thermistor pins on the RAMPS board (using a jumper). What is the temperature reading now? It should be whatever &lt;code&gt;MAX_TEMP&lt;/code&gt; is defined as, typically around 400°C. Again, check your firmware configuration file.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition, &lt;code&gt;M999&lt;/code&gt; is not an error, but a command used to reset the firmware/printer, after an error has occurred.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4762" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2017-05-11T08:21:06.757" LastActivityDate="2017-05-11T08:21:06.757" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4041" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4018" CreationDate="2017-05-11T13:03:16.387" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've cleaned the heated bed as suggested using ethanol, &#xA;then I've tested the Z distance of the nozzle from the bed with a paper sheet and it was ok. Lastly, I tried to raise the temperature of the extruder for the first layer to 215°C. I think that this did the trick.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7045" LastEditorUserId="854" LastEditDate="2017-05-13T23:11:54.090" LastActivityDate="2017-05-13T23:11:54.090" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4042" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-05-11T15:07:09.883" Score="1" ViewCount="167" Body="&lt;p&gt;I work in a biological laboratory where we have been using the FABtotum personal fabricator for several months now. The machine is good, however not flawless, and has set us back from doing experiments.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have overcome many common 3D printing issues, which I find necessary to do when becoming proficient in this technique. However the printer has also had its own personal mechanical and software issues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Our lab is seeking a printer that is more reliable, can produce parts relatively quick, good resolution, and it is nice if it has multiple modes (i.e FDM, SLA, and even 3D scanning is nice). This is what we figured we were getting with the FABtotum, but as I mentioned it has produced setbacks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now I would love to tinker with the printer and modify it to my needs, but unfortunately our lab is strapped for time, however we have funding for a higher quality printer if there is one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can you anyone recommend a printer fitting these needs in these budget categories?:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;3000 USD&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;5000 USD&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;8000 USD or more&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know price doesn't equate quality, but I am saying that we are willing to pay more if that is where the quality lies.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, I have come across the Form 2, Ultimaker, and BCN3D sigma printers which seem quite nice. Any opinions are very appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7077" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-11-26T12:37:38.187" LastActivityDate="2018-11-26T12:37:38.187" Title="Choosing the most high quality, reliable 3D printer" Tags="|quality|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ClosedDate="2017-05-15T12:10:17.833" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4043" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="361" CreationDate="2017-05-11T19:20:51.167" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;PETG is great, but definitely not as easy to print as PLA. However the advantages of higher impact resistance, temperature resistance and longevity make it superior to PLA for parts that require those properties. ABS is even harder to print than PETG and has worse strength and layer adhesion so no reason to bother with it in my opinion. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I print PETG at 80°C bed temp on PEI bed material, with 250°C nozzle temp. At first I was trying my old BuildTak bed material and it works at 40°C but the base of my parts was warping up some, it still worked but they didn't come out flat. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you raise the temp on BuildTak to 80°C bed then the PETG permanently bonds to the BuildTak and rips up pieces of it upon removal. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PEI at 80°C keeps the base of printed parts perfectly flat (up to a certain part size/thickness) and has good adhesion and release properties with no wear showing on the bed after many prints. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your parts are 100% infill and over about 3/4&quot; (20&amp;nbsp;mm) tall you may still have problems with the base not ending up completely flat. In such large rigid parts the upper area that does not stay properly heated through conduction from the bed will shrink some and pull the lower sections up with it. Lower fill density like 50%, 20% help with this problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PETG build up on the nozzle was a real problem for me until I got a silicone sleeved hotend, E3D is the only one who makes them that I know of right now, but I am sure there will be others shortly. This completely fixed the problem of filament sticking to the hot nozzle and later being deposited as black charred blobs. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another thing to consider is moisture, after even a day in high humidity PETG absorbs enough moisture to undergo hydrolysis upon extrusion at 250°C and become very brittle. To avoid this I use a conventional food dehydrator with the plastic being fed from inside, you can lookup designs on Thingiverse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7081" LastEditorUserId="7081" LastEditDate="2017-05-12T19:52:21.437" LastActivityDate="2017-05-12T19:52:21.437" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4044" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-05-11T20:12:39.170" Score="6" ViewCount="231" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are all sorts of stories of what to put on your printer bed to make your part not come loose when it is printing but can be removed after it is done without requiring a hammer and chisel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there anything out there that shows an analytical comparison?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My biggest interest is PLA on a heated glass base. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6417" LastEditorUserId="6417" LastEditDate="2017-05-11T20:39:49.047" LastActivityDate="2017-05-15T11:26:09.080" Title="Bed Adhesion materials" Tags="|adhesion|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4045" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4044" CreationDate="2017-05-11T20:44:22.317" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use a product called &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.3dlac.com/index.php/en/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;3DLAC&lt;/a&gt; but I suppose it's regular hairspray. Makes my PLA stick to the heated bed like a charm. After cooling down the print can be removed from the bed with ease.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Only today, after a few thousand prints the glass bed of my printer broke. But I suppose this is because we didn't have enough patience to let the bed cool down to room temperature before removing the printed piece.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6812" LastEditorUserId="6812" LastEditDate="2017-05-12T06:26:32.593" LastActivityDate="2017-05-12T06:26:32.593" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4047" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3782" CreationDate="2017-05-12T07:12:23.290" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought a new board controller and it's working perfectly&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5004" LastActivityDate="2017-05-12T07:12:23.290" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4048" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-05-12T14:51:05.583" Score="4" ViewCount="1090" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm using a Delta Wasp 2040 printer equipped with a clay extruder. I'm using Marlin firmware. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to print food (vegetable creams) not PLA filament, but my question is about the setting of some of the parameters. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As reported in Marlin, the default values for X, Y, Z, E axes are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;* D e f a u l t A x i s S t e p s P e r U n i t ( s t e p s / m m ) * O v e r r i d e w i t h M 9 2 * X , Y , Z , E 0 [ , E 1 [ , E 2 [ , E 3 ] ] ] * /&#xA;&#xA;#define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT { 80, 80, 4000, 500 }&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My questions are below:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The value 500 is intended as mm/min. If so, the actual value should be 8.33 step/mm of filament in a time of 1 s. Is this correct?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;It is not clear, in my mind, the E-step that I can change in Cura. This is what I believe:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If I leave in Cura, an E-step=0, then this means that I'm using the default value (500)?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What happens if I change the E-step value in Cura for instance at +0400? Is it changed from 500 to 400 mm/min, or the value on Cura is intended as a percentage of the default value?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can you explain to me exactly how the E-step changes when modifying its value in Cura. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7089" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2017-05-13T19:41:29.447" LastActivityDate="2017-06-15T02:26:42.180" Title="Regarding the E-step in Cura" Tags="|marlin|ultimaker-cura|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4049" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-05-12T16:21:31.593" Score="17" ViewCount="25265" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently got a 3D printer and have been experimenting with it a lot, resulting in a lot of failed prints (as well as successes, fortunately).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd like to, if possible, find a way to reuse the material from these failed prints.  I am thinking about two methods:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The obvious thing to do with the material is to chuck it in an old toaster oven and reuse it for injection molding.  Is this something that is reasonably easy to do? If so, what temperature would be reasonable to use? What materials would be good to use for the mold? (off the top of my head, silicone or printed ABS with some kind of sealant seem the most promising)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Are there other ways to easily reuse the material? I've noticed that when PLA is heated to somewhere around 50-60 degrees C (120-150 F) it becomes somewhat soft and malleable. Does anyone have experience molding hot PLA?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To be clear, I'm specifically asking about ways to reuse scrap PLA material, not just leftover filament, and not ways to turn it back into filament or to just recycle it. I'm particularly interested in the viability of the two methods I suggested, and if anyone has experience (positive or negative) with either I'd like to hear about it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7091" LastEditorUserId="6417" LastEditDate="2017-05-17T21:40:13.320" LastActivityDate="2018-04-16T18:04:48.110" Title="Uses for PLA scraps" Tags="|pla|recycling|molds|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4050" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4044" CreationDate="2017-05-12T19:42:20.363" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you can upgrade your bed to a magnetic bed with spring steel top all the problems of breaking parts loose go away, the method is you take the spring steel plate off the magnets and twist it gently to allow your part to break loose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a commercial product going under the name &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprintermods.com/home/9-maghold-model-c-for-ff-dreamer-and-compatible-printers.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;MagHold&lt;/a&gt;. I am not affiliated with them but really like the idea and have it on three of my printers, works great. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For best results overall I recommend PEI material on top of the spring steel plate. the PEI works great for PLA at 50°C and PETG at 80°C. And you can still break both materials loose easily by twisting the plate. No damage to the sides of your parts from prying. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7081" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2017-05-15T11:26:09.080" LastActivityDate="2017-05-15T11:26:09.080" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4051" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4065" CreationDate="2017-05-13T01:29:36.787" Score="5" ViewCount="373" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an STL file that, when I load it in Slic3r, looks fine, but somewhere in the actual slicing process, something goes wrong and parts of the model disappear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fghM8.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fghM8.png&quot; alt=&quot;Render and slicing preview&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's the render on the left, and the slicing preview on the right. That big hole is the most obvious fault, but there are more little notches elsewhere on the model; you can see a couple on the bottom edge there. It looks like the program is ignoring some of the model's faces entirely. What's all that about?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The model passes every manifoldiness test I've thrown at it: Slic3r's, Meshmixer's, Blender's, and a couple of online services I've forgotten.The walls that go missing are pretty thin, but they're at least a millimeter at their narrowest point, so I think it should be thick enough for the printer to handle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a link to the STL file in question, on FileHosting.org, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.filehosting.org/file/details/664957/FlashHovering.stl&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;FlashHovering.stl&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7097" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2017-05-13T02:53:46.663" LastActivityDate="2017-06-15T00:26:57.603" Title="Parts of my (apparently manifold) model aren't appearing in my Slic3r preview" Tags="|slicing|slic3r|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4052" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4049" CreationDate="2017-05-13T05:19:38.847" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here is a great article on the subject, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.3dhubs.com/talk/thread/how-make-your-own-filament-recycling-old-3d-prints-part-1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;How to make your own filament by recycling old 3D prints | Part 1&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At $20/kg for new material, it is going to be hard for recycling to break even; but, if the cost is not your concern, there are some options.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is another creative option that I just saw... Cue amazing electric guitar riff:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4Ur4H.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4Ur4H.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Angus Young - ACDC&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Guitar Picks (and jewelry)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is the video: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=42c8go9A7HQ&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Failed Print Recycling Revisited // Guitar Picks, Earrings, and More&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6417" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2017-05-16T00:32:00.127" LastActivityDate="2017-05-16T00:32:00.127" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4053" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="361" CreationDate="2017-05-13T10:54:41.820" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I love PETG. When I first started I always used ABS because I thought it was the best and didn't see the point in using PLA. However, after a few years of playing around I no longer use ABS. I use PLA for when I am testing and PETG when I want to print something that will be used, ike parts or models. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PETG is a little more expensive, however worth it, as it is strong and easy to use. I normally print at 220°C on the nozzle and 80°C for the bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PETG has more flex to it so when you are printing parts it is less likely to break under pressure like ABS. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7104" LastEditorUserId="854" LastEditDate="2017-05-13T23:10:12.273" LastActivityDate="2017-05-13T23:10:12.273" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4054" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4044" CreationDate="2017-05-13T10:57:36.560" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I already spent time reading up on this and quickly worked out there is a lot of useless products out there. Sure they may work however it adds a massive cost to your print. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I have found works best for heated glass beds is Glue stick, nice and cheap, lasts a long time and has never let me down. Bed temperature is also very important to get right however out of all the products I have tried, Glue Stick works the best. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7104" LastEditorUserId="7104" LastEditDate="2017-05-14T04:33:56.317" LastActivityDate="2017-05-14T04:33:56.317" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4055" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4042" CreationDate="2017-05-13T11:03:31.660" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have only tried 2 different printers. I started with an Up plus printer and it was good to get started. After a few years you really want more control. I did a lot of research and ended up buying the Extrabot. It is based on the ultimaker however the guy that puts them together upgrades the motors and a few other parts to really make them work with multiple filament.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You have control over all the settings so using exotic filaments is a viable option.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7104" LastActivityDate="2017-05-13T11:03:31.660" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4056" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4018" CreationDate="2017-05-13T11:06:05.663" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;With PLA I normally run the bed at 70 and the extruder at 190. Make sure the bed gets to temperature before you start and use gluestick on the bed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7104" LastActivityDate="2017-05-13T11:06:05.663" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4058" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4042" CreationDate="2017-05-13T17:00:52.910" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;At work we have a Stratasys Polyjet.  It prints using UV cured gel; so, it is kind of a cross between FDM and SLA.  I have not used it personally, it is mostly used byt the ME group.  The parts I have seen that it produces are VERY good and it support different materials and even multiple materials.  They have a lot of different product levels so they can support different price points.  The only complaint I have heard is the material cost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It can print some amazing stuff&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/F7BDg.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/F7BDg.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a nice video &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HMMJnn_gHWw&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HMMJnn_gHWw&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6417" LastActivityDate="2017-05-13T17:00:52.910" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4060" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="371" CreationDate="2017-05-13T23:37:46.727" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;One of the things I look for is if you pull the print head a good ways off the bed and have it extrude. It should just squirt plastic straight down.  If it bends sharply in one direction, or even curls back on itself, then that is a sign of damage. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7111" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2017-05-15T11:26:28.657" LastActivityDate="2017-05-15T11:26:28.657" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4061" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4018" CreationDate="2017-05-14T03:10:02.327" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;material sticking problem can be due to following reason:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;bed level&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;bed temperature&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;z motion calibration (ex if not calibrated layer height is 0.2 and z move 0.4 then material cant stick on bed)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;bed surface (for sticking first layer on bed what you use)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;remove all above reason step by step &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;first confirm bed level&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;bed temperature according to material (pla - 70 , abs - 100 )&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;all above option are good but warpping chance are higher&#xA;for last bed surface you have following option to use  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;use paper tape &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;use Kapton tape&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;glue stick&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;use paste  (accetone + abs) abs melt into accetone and it become like cream and you can apply on bed after bed heating &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;if you are using last option then just confirm bed level again before start print&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6760" LastEditorUserId="6760" LastEditDate="2017-05-15T17:38:42.730" LastActivityDate="2017-05-15T17:38:42.730" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4062" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4049" CreationDate="2017-05-14T03:24:31.570" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I ended up buying a little handheld 3D pen. It comes in handy when printing models that require assembly. You can use the leftover filament in the 3D pen. If you don't have a 3D pen, you can use a soldering iron (as long as you can control the temp) to weld items together. I works well for part repairs and assembly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The 3D pens is also handy for quick simple prints, as mentioned above. A guitar pick is a good idea and very easy to make with the 3D pen. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for making your own filament, there are a couple of machines I would recommend looking into.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First you will need something to prep the material.  This &lt;a href=&quot;http://filamaker.eu/product/harddrive-destroyer/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;shredder&lt;/a&gt; will help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To make your own filament, here are a couple of options&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:145500&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;DIY&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://d3dinnovations.com/filafab/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Off the shelf&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regarding Injection Molding, I have never done it, however found some &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.rtpcompany.com/technical-info/molding-guidelines/pla-compounds/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;good info&lt;/a&gt; on molding PLA.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7104" LastEditorUserId="6417" LastEditDate="2017-05-17T21:26:15.360" LastActivityDate="2017-05-17T21:26:15.360" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4063" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3968" CreationDate="2017-05-14T03:27:19.100" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;To answer your question, ABS is better than PLA for parts however I wouldn't use ABS for that, I would use PETG for structural parts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PETG is more durable than ABS or PLA. PETG is more flexible than PLA and it not brittle like ABS. What makes PETG so good is the G! G stands for Glycol, this is added to prevent the material from crystallizing when over heated. While some companies say it is &quot;Food Grade&quot; you really need to be careful as note every factory produce it the same.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I started printing I only used ABS, I thought it was better because it was stronger than PLA, so I just put up with the smell of ABS.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It wasn't until I bought my second printer that I found out about PETG. They guy that makes my printer used to work in the plastics industry, so he gave me some info on the filaments on the market. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now I use PLA and PETG. PLA for testing and playing with different models and PETG for anything I want to last or will be used in hot environments (like in the car). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Printing with PETG&lt;/strong&gt; is very easy, a lot easier than ABS. It sticks to the bed very well (I still use Glue stick though) and no smell. Temp depends on your printer. I use an ExtraBot, I run the Extruder at &lt;strong&gt;220°C&lt;/strong&gt; and the glass bed at &lt;strong&gt;80°C&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a lot of write ups on PETG, many different settings/temps they recommend. Honestly, watch while you print. Start off at 220°C and if you see bubbles, drop the temp in increments, if you see it not sticking to the bed or the nozzle is clogging up, increase the temp. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7104" LastEditorUserId="7104" LastEditDate="2017-05-14T06:44:48.153" LastActivityDate="2017-05-14T06:44:48.153" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4064" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4012" CreationDate="2017-05-14T06:43:35.467" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;To compliment &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/233/tjb1&quot;&gt;tjb1&lt;/a&gt;'s &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/4012/how-long-are-the-carbon-fibre-rods-for-a-travelling-kossel/4013#4013&quot;&gt;answer&lt;/a&gt;, The link seems to go to a spreadsheet that doesn't have any formulae in it. However, I managed to find a copy, from Google groups: &lt;a href=&quot;https://groups.google.com/forum/#!topic/deltabot/FYRnkOQjyZA&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;How to calculate Delta Dimensions for new build&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, another source of the Document is &lt;a href=&quot;https://groups.google.com/forum/#!topic/deltabot/N5vW0Z5Obgw&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Kossel frame calculator (delt...@googlegroups.com)&lt;/a&gt;. Right at the top is a posting of Johan's (who is the designer of the Kossel) spreadsheet, which is &lt;em&gt;essentially&lt;/em&gt; the same as before, but it is contained within an interesting message thread.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a few more calculators, that a quick &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.co.th/search?q=kossel%20frame%20size%20calculator&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;google search&lt;/a&gt; will throw up, which I have listed in a short blog, &lt;a href=&quot;https://gr33nonline.wordpress.com/2017/05/14/kossel-the-ratio/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Kossel - The Ratio&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.co.th/url?sa=t&amp;amp;rct=j&amp;amp;q=&amp;amp;esrc=s&amp;amp;source=web&amp;amp;cd=4&amp;amp;cad=rja&amp;amp;uact=8&amp;amp;ved=0ahUKEwj1ooawwO7TAhWFto8KHWRhANMQFgg7MAM&amp;amp;url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.openbuilds.com%2Fthreads%2Fdelta-frame-calculator.2285%2F&amp;amp;usg=AFQjCNGxg-6ts3UDSHnL1dAu_L-nkyfygQ&amp;amp;sig2=dihgvBSOv-u4eTpJa5GIZQ&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Delta Frame Calculator | OpenBuilds&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.co.th/url?sa=t&amp;amp;rct=j&amp;amp;q=&amp;amp;esrc=s&amp;amp;source=web&amp;amp;cd=5&amp;amp;cad=rja&amp;amp;uact=8&amp;amp;ved=0ahUKEwj1ooawwO7TAhWFto8KHWRhANMQFghDMAQ&amp;amp;url=https%3A%2F%2Fgithub.com%2Faleung%2FKosselPrinter%2Fblob%2Fmaster%2FKossel%2520frame%2520calculator.xlsx&amp;amp;usg=AFQjCNH-knd_wegFpBVhws2fE15I3pGPew&amp;amp;sig2=iBPq3ExjSh5yWv4-yosOhA&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;KosselPrinter/Kossel frame calculator.xlsx at master · aleung … – GitHub&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.co.th/url?sa=t&amp;amp;rct=j&amp;amp;q=&amp;amp;esrc=s&amp;amp;source=web&amp;amp;cd=8&amp;amp;cad=rja&amp;amp;uact=8&amp;amp;ved=0ahUKEwj1ooawwO7TAhWFto8KHWRhANMQFghVMAc&amp;amp;url=https%3A%2F%2F18264080209174115072.googlegroups.com%2Fattach%2Fe000db15be23ead9%2FKossel%2520Mini.xlsx%3Fpart%3D4%26vt%3DANaJVrE-9525HNvYyHEg1I1AQDVbsc1udBjXwSoDkROAaFal14jRWa13oLCuYHlM1ruNfRFQGvTkMFhqoO115eMkCcmaMvB68nmgVwDQ-ZF73NJh25JKorY&amp;amp;usg=AFQjCNFgAZYxmCz1RM8uFwKL0HE5E6wUjQ&amp;amp;sig2=_QnIEIkaP1oq4S41nI1xug&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Kossel frame calculator – Google Groups&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.co.th/url?sa=t&amp;amp;rct=j&amp;amp;q=&amp;amp;esrc=s&amp;amp;source=web&amp;amp;cd=9&amp;amp;cad=rja&amp;amp;uact=8&amp;amp;ved=0ahUKEwj1ooawwO7TAhWFto8KHWRhANMQFghbMAg&amp;amp;url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.pearltrees.com%2Fdevelopingdreams%2Fcalculations%2Fid8061294&amp;amp;usg=AFQjCNGDvqyNnwtW1UZCjCBW_2mpPJZvdA&amp;amp;sig2=0-A6hnzFsKvE-qv4WLxSDg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Calculations | Pearltrees&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have an enhanced version that allows additional parameters to be modified, see &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/greenonline/Kossel/tree/master/Spreadsheets&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Github: Greenonline/Kossel/Spreadsheets&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Design Process by David Crocker&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Apparently, the ratio is &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; particularly vital. I found a design process in the comments section of &lt;a href=&quot;https://miscsolutions.wordpress.com/2015/08/22/more-upgrades-to-the-large-delta-3d-printer/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;More upgrades to the large Delta 3D printer&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The design process goes something like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Estimate the size of effector you will need.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Given that effector size, work out how close to the towers the nozzle will be able to get. From that and the desired printing radius,&#xA;work out what radius the towers are on.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;That fixes the lengths of the horizontal extrusions. Choose the diagonal rod length so that when at the edge of the bed opposite a&#xA;tower, the rods to that tower are at 20 degrees or a little more to&#xA;the horizontal.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Given that diagonal rod length, choose the rod separation. I suggest about 1/6 of the rod length (this is larger than on my delta).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If that rod separation means you need a larger effector, repeat from step 1.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Choose the tower height to give the required print height at the edges of the bed, when one pair of rods may be more or less vertical.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I queried David about his use of the 0.8 ratio, again in the comments section, on &lt;a href=&quot;https://miscsolutions.wordpress.com/2015/06/01/building-a-large-delta-printer/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Building a large delta 3D printer&lt;/a&gt;, this was his reply:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The notion that there is a single ratio of diagonal rod to horizontal&#xA;extrusion length that is right for all delta printers is misguided. It&#xA;depends on the geometry of the corners that join the horizontals to&#xA;the towers, the size of the effector, and the carriage design. What&#xA;matters is that the rods are at no less than 20 degrees (preferably 25&#xA;or more) to the horizontal when the nozzle is at the edge of the bed&#xA;opposite a tower.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4762" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:29:41.667" LastActivityDate="2017-05-15T06:33:52.097" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4065" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4051" CreationDate="2017-05-14T21:09:32.823" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I fixed it!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had my extruder diameter set to 0.5 mm, and the narrowest point of the model was just a hair under a full millimeter, so I guess the program took it to mean that it should only put down one line of material. I made the walls a little thicker and now it looks fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7097" LastEditorUserId="7097" LastEditDate="2017-06-15T00:26:57.603" LastActivityDate="2017-06-15T00:26:57.603" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4066" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-05-15T12:29:56.027" Score="2" ViewCount="2011" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know that the actual printing time is longer than the time estimated by Cura, due to acceleration and jerk factor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I have printed a small pyramid for which Cura estimates 4.0 minutes, while the measured printing time is 2 minutes and 40 seconds. &#xA;What reasons could produce this difference?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For clarity, I'm using a Delta Wasp 20 40 equipped with a clay extruder for which parameters such as E-step (for E axis) are unpredictable since I have no filament.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7089" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-09-10T11:19:18.083" LastActivityDate="2018-09-10T11:19:18.083" Title="Estimating printing time from Cura" Tags="|3d-models|delta|delta-wasp-2040|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4067" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3389" CreationDate="2017-05-15T14:22:11.360" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I looked at the current Marlin code and the P24 command should work as you expect it unless the pin you are trying to use in listed as the &quot;SENSITIVE_PINS&quot; list:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#define SENSITIVE_PINS { 0, 1, \&#xA;X_STEP_PIN, X_DIR_PIN, X_ENABLE_PIN, X_MIN_PIN, X_MAX_PIN, \&#xA;Y_STEP_PIN, Y_DIR_PIN, Y_ENABLE_PIN, Y_MIN_PIN, Y_MAX_PIN, \&#xA;Z_STEP_PIN, Z_DIR_PIN, Z_ENABLE_PIN, Z_MIN_PIN, Z_MAX_PIN, Z_MIN_PROBE_PIN, \&#xA;PS_ON_PIN, HEATER_BED_PIN, FAN_PIN, FAN1_PIN, FAN2_PIN, CONTROLLER_FAN_PIN, \&#xA;_E0_PINS _E1_PINS _E2_PINS _E3_PINS _E4_PINS BED_PINS \&#xA;_H0_PINS _H1_PINS _H2_PINS _H3_PINS _H4_PINS \&#xA;_X2_PINS _Y2_PINS _Z2_PINS \&#xA;X_MS1_PIN, X_MS2_PIN, Y_MS1_PIN, Y_MS2_PIN, Z_MS1_PIN, Z_MS2_PIN \&#xA;}&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These pins are printer specific; so, without access to your Marlin build, I can't see if pin 4 corresponds to one of these.  If this is the problem, the command should be returning an error.  If there is no error, I would look closely at the hardware.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6417" LastEditorUserId="6417" LastEditDate="2017-08-14T05:08:03.497" LastActivityDate="2017-08-14T05:08:03.497" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4069" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4048" CreationDate="2017-05-16T02:19:00.587" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can only weigh in on the Marlin side of your question - &quot;The value 500 is intended as mm/min&quot; - uh, no, AFAIK it's steps per mm, just like it says - i.e. with filament, 500 steps per mm of filament fed. Other than not allowing the feedrate parameter to go so high that steps are skipped (which is a different limit) it's time-independent. I suppose with an extruder it would be mm of piston movement, but I don't have an extruder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my case, an actual value is closer to 250, and I typically check the calibration with 50 or 100 mm of filament feed so I can make a decent measurement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also wonder if your firmware knows it's running on a delta, since mine reports &quot;A, B, C&quot; rather than XYZ and all three towers are the same steps/mm - the &quot;default values&quot; you are looking at might apply to a typical cartesian printer where the Z axis is threaded while the X &amp;amp; Y are toothed belts. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming it runs correctly you might be seeing irrelevant &quot;default values&quot; and having correct values loaded from EEPROM when the system starts (look at the log window when the control system connects to the printer.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6853" LastActivityDate="2017-05-16T02:19:00.587" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4070" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3994" CreationDate="2017-05-16T02:50:39.730" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;First, I would check for bed adhesion issues. I would then check the hot-end, when it is warmed up, for any loose parts. I have fixed such issues with a piece of PTFE tape. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would also check the filament cooler parts, or proximity sensor (if you have one), for possible drag on the printed sections during printing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7125" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2017-05-16T10:06:47.937" LastActivityDate="2017-05-16T10:06:47.937" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4071" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4083" CreationDate="2017-05-16T04:02:28.803" Score="1" ViewCount="330" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a solid of revolution defined by two equations, and I want to generate a STL file for printing from the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.desmos.com/calculator/eh18uwasw9&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;difference of the two equations&lt;/a&gt;, revolved around x=0. I can get a good visualization when I &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.wolframalpha.com/input/?i=rotate%20the%20region%20between%20x%3Dsqrt(129%2B12y-y%5E2)-15.858%20and%20x%3Dsqrt(129%2B12y-y%5E2)-16.358%20around%20x%3D0%20from%20y%3D0%20to%20y%3D4&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;query this on Wolfram Alpha&lt;/a&gt;, but I cannot figure out how to download an STL of this. I know there is a way to do this via Wolfram's Development Program but I'm not sure how or if that is the best way to do this. Solutions do not have to involve WA.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7126" LastActivityDate="2017-05-17T03:46:27.480" Title="How to generate a STL from a rotational solid of two equations?" Tags="|3d-models|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4073" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3972" CreationDate="2017-05-16T10:49:53.863" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This was actually a coincidental situation where I somehow damaged the RAMPS board around the same time I reloaded the firmware. Replaced the board and it works correctly now&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6952" LastActivityDate="2017-05-16T10:49:53.863" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4076" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4079" CreationDate="2017-05-16T14:39:16.857" Score="6" ViewCount="1190" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to connect two 3D printed parts (ABS) together with a threaded connection. Thus, I need to fix a threaded metal nut (M4) inside a corresponding slot which I've implemented in the design.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Right now I apply a conventional super glue on the nut and press it inside the print, wait for a couple of hours and then use it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Problem is that the nut keeps falling out of the print when I apply a more tension to the bolt. Can you please advise me on how to make this method work. Maybe some of you aware of special glue for that purposes?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7138" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2018-09-16T12:18:01.787" LastActivityDate="2018-09-16T12:18:01.787" Title="Best practices to fix a threaded nut inside a print" Tags="|3d-models|filament|metal-parts|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4077" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4076" CreationDate="2017-05-16T14:46:10.943" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just heat the nut with a soldering iron to seat it into place (after the print). I've done this many times myself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: Try a bit of acetone, to allow the ABS near the nut to reflow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4922" LastEditorUserId="4922" LastEditDate="2017-05-16T14:58:44.933" LastActivityDate="2017-05-16T14:58:44.933" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4078" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4108" CreationDate="2017-05-16T14:54:42.140" Score="1" ViewCount="204" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm now currently looking at getting my next 3D printer, after my success with the Prusa i3 Reprap Build, and I have had my eyes on the Da Vinci line of printers for some time now. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I want to know is, does this line of 3D printers include a heated bed? Or does it come with a stock aluminum bed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1722" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2017-05-17T09:28:25.670" LastActivityDate="2017-05-19T15:02:19.033" Title="Does the Da Vinci line of 3D printers come with a heated bed?" Tags="|heated-bed|hardware|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4079" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4076" CreationDate="2017-05-16T15:10:05.483" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;One good option would be to - if possible - change the design, so the nut is inserted from the opposite side, so that the bolt just pulls it in tighter rather than pulling it out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another option would be to instead of using a nut, use a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.matterhackers.com/articles/fasteners-for-3d-printing&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;brass threaded insert&lt;/a&gt;. These are like nuts, except they have ridges that are specifically aimed at locking it inside the plastic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastActivityDate="2017-05-16T15:10:05.483" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4080" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4071" CreationDate="2017-05-16T16:17:18.310" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Wolfram Alpha &quot;Data Download&quot; feature supports STL format, but is only enabled with a Pro Account.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I click your link to Wolfram, I see the visualization of your equations at the bottom of the page; when I hover over the image, several buttons show below it. One of them is &quot;Data&quot;, with a download icon. This gives a number of download options. The File Format drop down includes &quot;STL&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5704" LastEditorUserId="5704" LastEditDate="2017-05-16T21:51:18.270" LastActivityDate="2017-05-16T21:51:18.270" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4081" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4066" CreationDate="2017-05-16T19:12:45.993" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As you note, the estimates are usually optimistic because they're calculated without knowing the printer's actual acceleration as well as communication overhead time losses, etc.  However, many estimation algorithms put in a bit of a fudge factor to approximate a typical printer or to approximate startup time. I think in this case, you're just on the wrong side of the fudge factor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="305" LastActivityDate="2017-05-16T19:12:45.993" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4083" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4071" CreationDate="2017-05-17T03:46:27.480" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The best free solution I could find was to graph this (in Desmos), screenshot it, and convert it into a SVG, convert that into an OpenSCAD file, and then use that to make the STL. A similar process is shown on someone's blog &lt;a href=&quot;https://johnchapin.com/2015/08/05/desmos-to-3d-printout-in-30-minutes/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7126" LastActivityDate="2017-05-17T03:46:27.480" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4084" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4087" CreationDate="2017-05-17T05:54:56.123" Score="5" ViewCount="6625" Body="&lt;p&gt;3D printing should be relatively safe, however, the inherent nature of 3D printers, with all of the heated parts, constitutes a fire risk. A well designed 3D printer should be designed to be as safe as possible, especially one used in the home... Yes, the recommendation is, when printing, to watch the 3D printer at all times and never leave a print unattended. However, with some print times lasting hours and days, this is not always feasible, nor practical. So, some inbuilt safety features should be included, to at least mitigate the risk of fire, to some extent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Is the use of thermal fuses&lt;sup&gt;1,2&lt;/sup&gt; a good idea&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt;? &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Would you use more than one?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Where should one place a thermal fuse? Next to a particular component, or &lt;em&gt;free standing&lt;/em&gt;, in the air, to get an average, rather than &lt;em&gt;highly localised&lt;/em&gt; temperature? &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Against which components should a thermal fuse be placed? There are a number of places to choose from, such as next to:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The hotend? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The heated bed? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The extruder? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Each of the stepper motors? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The power supply? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The RAMPS stepper motor drivers?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Of lesser import, which type should one use&lt;sup&gt;4&lt;/sup&gt;, radial or axial?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RDeIh.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RDeIh.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Common thermal fuses&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has anyone added thermal fuses to their 3D printers? Or has anyone examined where the thermal fuses are placed in commercial 3D printer designs, if used at all?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Background&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have recently found myself having to repair rice cookers and fans in Thailand. In those, it is very often the thermal fuse (axial thermal fuses for the rice cookers and the square &quot;radial&quot; types for fans) that requires replacing, as they have &lt;em&gt;blown&lt;/em&gt; before the device got hot enough to start a fire. This got me thinking about their use in a 3D printer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Footnotes&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; We are &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; talking about the standard, replaceable, thermo-fuse,or &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fuse_(electrical)&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;fuse&lt;/a&gt;, which blow upon a current surge, short-circuit, etc. These are &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thermal_cutoff#Thermal_fuse&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;thermal fuses&lt;/a&gt; that contain metal connector within them that melts (permanently) at a specific temperature (typically ~135°C), thereby breaking the circuit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; Nor am I referring to &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Resettable_fuse&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;resettable fuses&lt;/a&gt; (AKA PPTC, multifuse, polyfuse or polyswitch)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt; Would a thermal fuse be preferable to thermal cut offs, in the case of fire?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;4&lt;/sup&gt; The thermal fuses used in rice cookers are the &lt;em&gt;axial&lt;/em&gt; type, and in the motors of fans are the &lt;em&gt;radial&lt;/em&gt; type.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4762" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2019-06-14T06:36:48.867" LastActivityDate="2019-06-18T05:14:55.730" Title="Is it a good idea to include thermal fuses in a DIY 3D printer design?" Tags="|printer-building|diy-3d-printer|" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4085" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4076" CreationDate="2017-05-17T07:36:29.343" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Instead of super glue, you could try a two part epoxy resin (any brand should do, i.e. &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.bison.nl/nl/product.1259&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Bison Kombi Power&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.jbweld.com/products/j-b-weld-twin-tube&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;JB Weld&lt;/a&gt;). This may take longer to dry, than the super glue, but &lt;em&gt;should&lt;/em&gt; be much stronger, and deal with torsion forces better&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or, you could try red (not blue) Loctite. However, the epoxy resin would probably be stronger.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; This is admittedly an opinionated reference, but from &lt;a href=&quot;https://forums.anandtech.com/threads/epoxy-or-super-glue-which-is-stronger.1201543/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Epoxy or super glue, which is stronger?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;depending on the surface, [epoxy] can be superior. Epoxies are generally a must if the surfaces are porous&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Epoxy is superior to CA. CA is nearly always misapplied. Epoxy has a higher tolerance to misapplication thus is much less likely to fail under such circumstances. I've used Belzona epoxies to repair parts on various aircraft and spacecraft where welding would be inappropriate! Belzona epoxy is without a doubt the best there is. Too bad you cannot purchase it in Home Depot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The closest thing you can get though is PC-7.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4762" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2017-05-17T08:08:25.520" LastActivityDate="2017-05-17T08:08:25.520" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4086" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4084" CreationDate="2017-05-17T14:40:02.127" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, measures which decrease the chance of a fire are a good idea.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In a DIY project, such a fuse is indeed a good idea. I use a printer/software/firmware package which monitors the temperature and fails open (removing current) if readings are out of range; however, there is also hardware protection (a thermal snap switch) just in case the other precautions fail.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4922" LastActivityDate="2017-05-17T14:40:02.127" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4087" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4084" CreationDate="2017-05-17T14:47:21.123" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Whether you should use a thermal fuse or not depends on what other safety measures you've taken. You can't look at the safety features of a printer in isolation, you need to look at what other measures are in place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main fire hazard in printers is unfortunately (still) the fact that some manufacturers use underrated connectors on their boards, and that some users put bare wires in screw terminals or use inadequate torque when tightening terminals. As the wire works itself loose, it starts arcing and burning the connector. A thermal fuse does not help in this situation (unless you place thermal fuses near all of the connectors, which is impractical). Instead:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Properly tighten screw terminals, check them, and consider using proper wire termination (crimp lugs).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Use strain relief on wires. Make sure wires don't rub against anything, and guide them so they do not bend in a tight radius. Since the extruder (or print bed) is constantly moving, those wires are subject to fatigue.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Make sure connectors (especially those for the heated bed) are rated for the current running through them, and solder wires directly to the board if necessary.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using a regular fuse may protect against wires shorting against each other should their insulation be damaged. Fuses are usually already integrated into the main board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most firmwares include some variant of &lt;em&gt;thermal runaway protection&lt;/em&gt;, a feature that monitors the heaters and shuts the printer down if it notices something gone wrong. This protects against:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The thermistor coming loose/reading incorrect values/etc...&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;but not against:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Bugs in the firmware itself&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Failure of the MOSFET&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most printers use MOSFETs to switch power to the heating element. Unfortunately, when MOSFETs fail, they usually fail &lt;em&gt;closed&lt;/em&gt; (i.e. conducting). This means that, even if the firmware detects something has gone wrong, it won't be able to do anything about it. Solid State Relays (TRIACs) can fail in the same way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To protect against this, mounting a thermal fuse (or resettable bimetallic switch*) on the heated bed may be a good idea. However, thermal fuses with ratings up to the operating temperature of a hotend do not appear to be available so this is not an option.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Attaching the fuse physically to the part it is monitoring is the most reliable, but for instance with the hotend (if you wanted to protect it all) this might not be feasible to the high temperatures involved so you'd have to settle with monitoring the air temperature close by.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also consider &lt;em&gt;thermal balancing&lt;/em&gt;. A thermal fuse is unnecessary if the component can not overheat to begin with. For instance, most MK2 heated beds struggle getting up to even 100C, so even with a shorted MOSFET they present no danger. However, if you have a powerful high wattage (mains-powered) heated bed, you should &lt;em&gt;definitely&lt;/em&gt; install thermal protection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;E3D supplies their hot ends with 25W, 30W and 40W heaters. The 25W heater is the safer choice, since it limits the maximum temperature the hot end can get to, while with the 40W heater you can reach higher temperatures (and reach them faster). Barring a very unlikely scenario in which simultaneously (1) the power supply fails and starts supplying excessive voltage and (2) the MOSFET and/or firmware fails, a heater that is sized appropriately to the load it is driving can never pose any danger.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't think it's common to install thermal fuses on steppers, stepper drives or the power supply (which should have its own protection). For every possible location to place a thermal fuse, you can probably think up a failure mode in which that fuse would save the day, but at a certain point it just becomes overkill. The stepper drivers would likely burn out well before the steppers would get hot enough to pose a threat, and overheating of the stepper driver would probably (violently) destroy it but afterwards it should not pose any threat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Axial v.s. radial does not matter, just use whatever is convenient for your situation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;* Note that some bimetallic switches short one of the leads to the (metal)&#xA; case when tripped, which poses a danger, especially with mains-powered heaters.&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastActivityDate="2017-05-17T14:47:21.123" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4088" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-05-17T15:41:56.487" Score="2" ViewCount="307" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to run a stress analysis on an assembly of parts that will be printed in Ultem 9085 (on a Fortus 400MC). I am trying to find a &lt;strong&gt;plastic that most closely mimics the material properties of Ultem in the Inventor materials library&lt;/strong&gt;. SOLIDWORKS had PEI which was near perfect, and I see that there's a thermoplastic resin in that library, but I can't seem to find PEI in Inventor. I was wondering if that thermoplastic resin is the best option, or if anyone knows another material in the Inventory library that would be more applicable. Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5095" LastEditorUserId="5095" LastEditDate="2017-05-17T16:01:14.750" LastActivityDate="2017-05-17T16:01:14.750" Title="Plastic most closely mimicking Ultem in Autodesk Inventor" Tags="|material|cad|analysis|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4090" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-05-17T22:18:49.950" Score="3" ViewCount="1146" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I send it commands to go up, the steppers rotate things up. If I tell the Z-axis to go down, nothing happens. I inverted the Z-axis in the firmware (by setting the value to true instead of false), and it did the same thing, but the other way around - it would only go down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7161" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2017-06-12T02:51:00.117" LastActivityDate="2017-06-12T02:51:00.117" Title="My Prusa i3's Z-axis will only go up" Tags="|prusa-i3|marlin|electronics|z-axis|firmware|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4091" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4090" CreationDate="2017-05-17T23:56:24.883" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds like your Z limit switch is stuck.&#xA;The firmware will prevent the motor going further down past the limit to prevent damage.   Be careful going up because if the firmware doesn't know where the bottom is, it doesn't know where the top is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I checked my printer (an i3 clone) and the limit switches are wired as NC (normally closed).  That means that the circuit opens when the switch is activated.  So, if the wire (or switch) is broken, or if it is unplugged, it will behave as if the switch is activated (the behavior you are seeing).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An easy test would be to switch the x-limit and z-limit cables at the controller board.  If the problem moves to the x-axis, you have found your problem.  BE CAREFUL not to run the motor into the end stop and damage something since there is no limit switch to protect it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6417" LastEditorUserId="6417" LastEditDate="2017-05-18T04:50:13.340" LastActivityDate="2017-05-18T04:50:13.340" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4092" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-05-18T02:04:37.370" Score="2" ViewCount="2447" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am interested in doing development on Cura.  Initially I want to start with the UI rather than the Engine.  I have found the &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/Ultimaker/Cura&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;repository&lt;/a&gt; and have cloned it to my PC.  I have also looked over the &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/Ultimaker/Cura/wiki&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Wiki&lt;/a&gt; and searched the web.  For such a popular open-source product, I was surprised I couldn't find a build guide.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can someone direct me on how to get started.  I have a LOT of experience in Software Development (more years and languages than I want to admit to); but, I have never used Python.  Consider that in your instructions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6417" LastActivityDate="2017-05-18T04:10:18.740" Title="How to build Cura on Windows?" Tags="|software|ultimaker-cura|python|development|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4093" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2017-05-18T02:06:17.980" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-05-18T02:06:17.980" LastActivityDate="2017-05-18T02:06:17.980" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4094" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2017-05-18T02:06:17.980" Score="0" Body="This question is associated with the programming language Python" OwnerUserId="6417" LastEditorUserId="6417" LastEditDate="2017-05-25T15:31:50.963" LastActivityDate="2017-05-25T15:31:50.963" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4095" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2017-05-18T02:10:40.663" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-05-18T02:10:40.663" LastActivityDate="2017-05-18T02:10:40.663" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4096" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2017-05-18T02:10:40.663" Score="0" Body="The process of creating or enhancing a product such as a software application or a hardware design you intend on producing." OwnerUserId="6417" LastEditorUserId="6417" LastEditDate="2017-05-25T15:32:06.510" LastActivityDate="2017-05-25T15:32:06.510" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4097" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4092" CreationDate="2017-05-18T03:48:55.313" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;As you are an experienced developer, these links should help:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a related question, but for Ubuntu &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/1309/how-to-build-curaengine&quot;&gt;How to build CuraEngine?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wikipedia has an informative page on &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cura_(software)&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Cura&lt;/a&gt;, which lists the Github development pages:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/Ultimaker/Cura&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Cura Github development page&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/daid/LegacyCura&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Cura Github legacy (pre-Ultimaker) development page&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/Ultimaker/CuraEngine&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Cura slicing engine Github development page&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Reading the development pages is a good place to start. The &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/Ultimaker/Cura&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Cura Github development page&lt;/a&gt; does contain resources for Windows.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The top level Ultimaker &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/Ultimaker&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Github page&lt;/a&gt; contains links to all of the relevant repositories, amongst other useful resources, including:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/Ultimaker/CuraEngine&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;CuraEngine&lt;/a&gt; - CuraEngine is a powerful, fast and robust engine for processing 3D models into 3D printing instruction for Ultimaker&#xA;  and other GCode based 3D printers. It is part of the larger open&#xA;  source project called &quot;Cura&quot;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/Ultimaker/Cura&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Cura&lt;/a&gt; - 3D printer / slicing GUI built on top of the Uranium framework&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://cura-build&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;cura-build&lt;/a&gt; - Build scripts for Cura&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With respect to Python, I, myself, am slowly making my way through this Python tutorial, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.codecademy.com/en/courses/introduction-to-python-6WeG3/0/1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Python Code Academy&lt;/a&gt;. However, there are a many other good Python tutorials out there, the best resource is probably &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.python.org/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Python.org&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One thing to note is that Python 2.x and 3.x are markedly different (see &lt;a href=&quot;https://wiki.python.org/moin/Python2orPython3&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Should I use Python 2 or Python 3 for my development activity?&lt;/a&gt;). &lt;a href=&quot;http://learntocodewith.me/programming/python/python-2-vs-python-3/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;What should I learn as a beginner: Python 2 OR Python 3?&lt;/a&gt; is also an interesting read.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4762" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2017-05-18T04:10:18.740" LastActivityDate="2017-05-18T04:10:18.740" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4098" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4092" CreationDate="2017-05-18T03:52:20.880" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The repository's README.md includes a section titled &quot;Build Scripts&quot;, with a link to another repository: &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/Ultimaker/cura-build&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://github.com/Ultimaker/cura-build&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This includes dependencies and instructions for building Cura on Windows.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5704" LastActivityDate="2017-05-18T03:52:20.880" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4100" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3668" CreationDate="2017-05-18T05:43:58.950" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can get the 0.1 micron (100 nm) resolution with a 2-photon 3D printer, but only in a polymer resin.  Nanoscribe, in Germany, pioneered this technology, see &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.nanoscribe.de/en/applications/mechanical-microstructures/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Mechanical Microstructures&lt;/a&gt;.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Their commercial printer, the Photonic Professional GT, is about $350,000 US with software and accessories. There is some work being done to replicate the 3D printed polymer in metal using electroless plating or ALD (atomic layer deposition).  Other techniques are in development.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;None of the direct metal 3D printing processes come close to your 0.1 micron resolution, although the field is rapidly evolving.  Only a couple of years ago, direct metal 3D printing was all based on powder bed fusion.  Now binder jet technology as been adapted to metals and, very recently, Xjet has developed a nanoparticle 3D printer. It prints &quot;ink&quot; composed of metal or ceramic nanoparticles suspended in a liquid.  The minimum layer thickness is 1 to 2 microns.  They have not released XY resolution data yet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A good overall reference for the various 3D printing techniques (including Xjet, but not Nanoscribe) can be found at &lt;a href=&quot;http://explainingthefuture.com/3dprinting.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Explaining The Future - 3D Printing&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7166" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2017-05-18T11:23:29.267" LastActivityDate="2017-05-18T11:23:29.267" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4103" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-05-19T01:32:38.607" Score="6" ViewCount="2536" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have had an Anet A8 printer for about two months now and still have not gotten it to print good prints. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At first, it would only print completely solid parts and every time I would try infill from 10-90% the first layer would not stick or it would print really filmy like. As of now, it won't print the first layers for anything well but once it gets up about 10-ish layers it prints perfectly. I have tried a lot of stuff but it seems to be making it worse. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The pictures show my recent attempt at these settings below (Cura's default for normal quality), the print is supposed to be a 10&amp;nbsp;mm square. I have gone back to the default settings because nothing else was working.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Using blue painter's tape&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Layer Height       0.1&amp;nbsp;mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In. Layer Height   0.3&amp;nbsp;mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;WallThicken        0.8&amp;nbsp;mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Top/Bottom Thick   0.8&amp;nbsp;mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Infill Density     20%&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Grid Pattern&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Print Temp         210°C&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bed Temp           65°C&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Dia                1.75&amp;nbsp;mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Flow               100%&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Brim (raft is a little better)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any suggestions?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uQMNN.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Photo of 3D print, showing top layer with two bubble effects&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uQMNN.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Photo of 3D print, showing top layer with two bubble effects&quot; title=&quot;Photo of 3D print, showing top layer with two bubble effects&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the top picture you can also how the top layer has two bubble effects.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/N0ZT3.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;3D Print with brim&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/N0ZT3.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;3D Print with brim&quot; title=&quot;3D Print with brim&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7180" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-07-08T14:46:58.223" LastActivityDate="2018-11-12T22:57:15.567" Title="Anet A8 beginning layers not printing correctly" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|anet-a8|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4104" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4103" CreationDate="2017-05-19T05:39:12.453" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Try lowering your Z height a bit more for the first layer if you find yourself having bed adhesion problems. What brand of filament are you using? Did you try using some other brands?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7182" LastActivityDate="2017-05-19T05:39:12.453" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4105" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4103" CreationDate="2017-05-19T12:44:43.497" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;With respect to the filament lifting off, and/or not adhering correctly, on the first layer, see &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/4018/filament-lifts-from-the-hot-bed-while-printing&quot;&gt;Filament lifts from the hot bed while printing&lt;/a&gt;... in particular, you may need to clean the bed, calibrate the leveling and the nozzle height (see &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/4018/filament-lifts-from-the-hot-bed-while-printing#answer-4021&quot;&gt;my answer&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The fact that the prints are fine, after 10 or so layers, could be to do with the heat - at the higher layers the print is warm and no warping occurs, but below that, maybe the print bed is acting as a heat sink and making the filament cool too quickly - hence the distortion. Are you using a heated bed? If not, then maybe consider installing one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not sure about the bubbles: how do your store your filament? The bubbles could be due to water, which expands as it gets hot, thereby causing the filament to bubble. It is best to store your filament in an air tight container, to prevent it collecting moisture and dust from the air.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4762" LastActivityDate="2017-05-19T12:44:43.497" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4106" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4107" CreationDate="2017-05-19T14:16:04.457" Score="5" ViewCount="1798" Body="&lt;p&gt;The surfaces of my printed parts using ABS plastic look rough and uneven.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What methods can I use to achieve a smoother finish for my for 3D-printed objects?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7186" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2018-09-16T12:32:56.680" LastActivityDate="2018-09-16T12:32:56.680" Title="How do I give 3D-printed parts in ABS a shiny smooth finish?" Tags="|abs|post-processing|surface|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4107" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4106" CreationDate="2017-05-19T14:31:19.573" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Acetone can be used to smooth ABS.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sIxOP.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sIxOP.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;The left has been smoothed by an acetone bath and the right is the original model. (Image credit: &lt;a href=&quot;http://sinkhacks.com/building-acetone-vapor-bath-smoothing-3d-printed-parts/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Andrew Sink&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Take note&lt;/strong&gt;: acetone is dangerous to breathe in, so work in a well ventilated area. It is also &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZJWhfpWlGFg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;flammable&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Warm acetone vapour bath using stove&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This method involves suspending the model in a glass jar of boiling acetone that is heated up by a pot of boiling water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Attach the model to the lid of the jar with some string, keep the string short, so the model is close to the lid.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Put a few centimetres of water in a pot&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Place a rag at the bottom of the pot (to keep the jar stable).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Place the glass jar in the pot, on top of the rag.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Place the pot on the stove and heat to 110°C.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When the acetone is boiling place the dangling model into the jar.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;After a few seconds, remove the model.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See &lt;a href=&quot;http://sinkhacks.com/building-acetone-vapor-bath-smoothing-3d-printed-parts/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; for a step-by-step guide with pictures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Warm acetone vapour bath using printer bed&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This method elevating the model in a glass jar of acetone that is heated up by the printer's heatbed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Find a non-soluble object that the 3D model can stand on.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Put a teaspoon of acetone in jar.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Place the jar on the heatbed and heat to 110°C.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Place the stand into the jar.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Place the model on the stand, the stand should not let the acetone touch the model.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;After a few minutes, remove the model.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xj53P2YzYGM&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; for an example.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7186" LastEditorUserId="4922" LastEditDate="2017-05-19T15:03:10.687" LastActivityDate="2017-05-19T15:03:10.687" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4108" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4078" CreationDate="2017-05-19T15:02:19.033" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes. The Da Vinci Duo 2 (most common one) has a heated bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7187" LastActivityDate="2017-05-19T15:02:19.033" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4109" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2017-05-19T19:10:33.670" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;For questions specifically about P3Steel printers (Versions 1, 2.0, 2.01, 2.5 and 4.0 and any further versions and/or derivations using steel as a base material for the frame). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This tag is not to be used for general questions about the Prusa i3 or Prusa i3 derivatives. Questions about &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/prusa-i3&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;prusa-i3&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;prusa-i3&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/prusa-mendal&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;prusa-mendal&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;prusa-mendal&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/prusa-i3-rework&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;prusa-i3-rework&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;prusa-i3-rework&lt;/a&gt; printers, in general, have their own tags.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The P3Steel is a redesign of the Prusa i3, but which uses (normally 3 mm thick, laser cut) &lt;em&gt;steel&lt;/em&gt;, as opposed to &lt;em&gt;acrylic&lt;/em&gt; or &lt;em&gt;aluminium&lt;/em&gt;, to form the frame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From &lt;a href=&quot;http://reprap.org/wiki/P3Steel&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;RepRapWiki - P3Steel&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The &lt;strong&gt;P3Steel&lt;/strong&gt; is a remix of &lt;em&gt;Twelvepro's&lt;/em&gt; redesign of &lt;em&gt;Josef&#xA;  Prusa's&lt;/em&gt; i3.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Leonardo - the prototype P3Steel printer - was designed and built by&#xA;  Irobri in April 2013, after attending a local Maker show in Zaragoza,&#xA;  Spain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The main frame structure, built from laser-cut 3mm steel, is extremely&#xA;  strong and simple to assemble, and eliminates the need for several&#xA;  printed parts due to the use of steel parts instead of threaded rods&#xA;  for the &quot;Y&quot; subframe (as in the original Prusa i3 and many of its&#xA;  variants).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Advantages&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a construction material, steels holds several advantages over the other materials commonly used for Prusa i3 derivatives (such as wood, acrylic and aluminium):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The most important is its strength and rigidity. It is also cheaper and easier to cut than aluminium.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Its weight can also be considered an advantage, as it can make the printer more sturdy and stable. Indeed, weight can be further reduced by cutting out a number of carvings. These carvings can, then, provide points at which additional components can be mounted.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Disadvantages&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a few, minor, disadvantages:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;It is the heaviest of the commonly used construction materials, although, the difference between an aluminum frame and a comparable steel frame is not that much (around 2.5kg extra). &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Carbon steel requires galvanisation or painting. However, stainless steel does not.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Other points&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Again, from &lt;a href=&quot;http://reprap.org/wiki/P3Steel&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;RepRapWiki - P3Steel&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;All square holes and tabs have&#xA;  special rounded corners for accommodating corresponding parts and give&#xA;  a very good fit between parts. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The design has slots for M3 nuts in the&#xA;  places where the screws fit so no threading is required.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Versions&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are number of different versions of the P3Steel:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1.0&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2.0&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2.0.1&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2.5&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;4.0&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For further details about each version, see &lt;a href=&quot;http://reprap.org/wiki/P3Steel#Frame_versions&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Frame versions&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4762" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2017-05-25T15:31:44.647" LastActivityDate="2017-05-25T15:31:44.647" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4110" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2017-05-19T19:10:33.670" Score="0" Body="For questions specifically about P3Steel printers (Versions 1, 2.0, 2.01, 2.5 and 4.0 and any further versions and/or derivations using steel as a base material for the frame). &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This tag is not to be used for general questions about the Prusa i3 or Prusa i3 derivatives. These printers have their own tag." OwnerUserId="4762" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2017-05-25T15:31:39.047" LastActivityDate="2017-05-25T15:31:39.047" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4111" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2017-05-19T19:18:14.713" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;For questions about the Wilson series of 3D printers (RS, TS and II), which were designed by Marty J Rice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Wilson family of printers is a parametric cartesian style printer, based on the Prusa i3 design. One of its principle design features is its use of 2020 extruded aluminium for the frame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From &lt;a href=&quot;http://reprap.org/wiki/Wilson_TS&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;RepRapWiki - Wilson&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Reprap Wilson is a descendant of the &lt;a href=&quot;http://reprap.org/wiki/Prusa_i3&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Prusa i3&lt;/a&gt; style reprap. It&#xA;  also has elements similar to the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.lulzbot.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Lulzbot Taz&lt;/a&gt; (particularly the&#xA;  Wilson II).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The main goal of Wilson was to replace the frame with one built from&#xA;  standard Aluminum extrusions (2020). Additionally, the design has a&#xA;  parametric build area, meaning it is relatively easy to scale the X,&#xA;  Y, and Z axis within reason. I've also made an effort to reduce the&#xA;  number of unique parts used as much as possible, and incorporated some&#xA;  other design ideas that I have tried on the Prusa i3 previously&#xA;  (monolithic Y ends, easy adjustment of the Z limit switch, integrated&#xA;  endstop holders, among others).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The standard BOM is for a 200mm³ build area (Wilson TS) and&#xA;  200x300x200 (Wilson II).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are three principle versions of the Wilson, the &lt;strong&gt;Wilson R Series&lt;/strong&gt; (RS) and &lt;strong&gt;T Series&lt;/strong&gt; (TS) versions, and the newer &lt;strong&gt;Wilson II&lt;/strong&gt;, all of which were designed by &lt;em&gt;Marty J Rice&lt;/em&gt;. There are other (generally larger) derivatives, but the design principles are, essentially the same. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See also &lt;a href=&quot;http://reprap.org/wiki/Category:Wilson_II&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;RepRapWiki - Wilson II&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4762" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2017-05-25T15:31:56.473" LastActivityDate="2017-05-25T15:31:56.473" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4112" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2017-05-19T19:18:14.713" Score="0" Body="For questions about the Wilson series of 3D printers (RS, TS and II), which were designed by Marty J Rice." OwnerUserId="4762" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2017-05-21T20:25:29.173" LastActivityDate="2017-05-21T20:25:29.173" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4113" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2017-05-20T03:03:47.963" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;This tag is for questions, specifically, about the Kossel family of printers. Questions about &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/delta&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;delta&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;delta&lt;/a&gt; printers, in general, have their own tag.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Kossel 3D printer is a parametric delta printer, based o the Rostock 3D printer. From &lt;a href=&quot;http://reprap.org/wiki/Kossel&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;RepRapWiki - Kossel&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Kossel is a parametric delta robot 3D printer, built in 2012 by&#xA;  &lt;a href=&quot;http://reprap.org/wiki/User:Johann&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Johann&lt;/a&gt; in Seattle, USA, based on his &lt;a href=&quot;http://reprap.org/wiki/Rostock&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Rostock&lt;/a&gt; prototype.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;It is named after &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Albrecht_Kossel&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Albrecht Kossel&lt;/a&gt;, German biochemist and pioneer&#xA;  in the study of genetics. He was awarded the Nobel Prize for&#xA;  Physiology or Medicine in 1910 for his work in determining the&#xA;  chemical composition of nucleic acids, the genetic substance of&#xA;  biological cells.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The original printer has spawned a number of derivatives, which differ mainly in their size, but which are &lt;em&gt;fundamentally&lt;/em&gt; the same design. Again, from &lt;a href=&quot;http://reprap.org/wiki/Kossel&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;RepRapWiki - Kossel&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;h3&gt;History&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;There are several printers in the Kossel family.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Legacy Kossel&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Spectra line instead of timing belt.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;623 bearings running directly on vertical 15 x 15 mm aluminum extrusion like OpenBeam, 6 bearings per carriage.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;PG35L extruder directly on the end effector (moving platform).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;This design is deprecated but the source files are still available.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;OpenBeam Kossel Pro&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Terence Tam's design for mass manufacturing.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Successfully funded on Kickstarter.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Stamped and injection molded parts instead of 3D printed.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Mini Kossel&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;This is Johann's latest and stable version.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;The rest of this page describes the details of Mini Kossel.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are other (generally larger) designs, from other contributors, namely from &lt;em&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.openbeamusa.com/blog/2014/6/11/the-openbeam-kossel-family-part-2&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Terence&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/em&gt; and &lt;em&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://miscsolutions.wordpress.com/2015/06/01/building-a-large-delta-printer/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;David Crocker&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/em&gt;, amongst others.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The original aims of this specific &lt;em&gt;delta&lt;/em&gt; style printer design, as opposed to the more traditional &lt;em&gt;cartesian&lt;/em&gt; style designs which are out there are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;h3&gt;Design Goals&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Zero backlash.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Type: Delta printer&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Speed: 320 mm/s in all 3 directions.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Resolution: 100 steps/mm in all 3 directions.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Repeatability: better than 0.03 mm (30 micron)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Build volume: cylindrical, 170mm diameter, 240mm height.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Footprint: triangle, 300 mm width (240mm OpenBeam + printed corners).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Frame height: 600 mm.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Print surface: unheated round glass, doesn't move.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Mass of end effector with hotend: less than 50 grams.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Simplicity: fewer than 200 parts.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Hardware cost: less than $600 USD.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Fully automatic print surface level calibration (autoleveling).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Source: &lt;a href=&quot;http://reprap.org/wiki/Kossel&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;RepRapWiki - Kossel&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4762" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2017-05-25T15:31:30.347" LastActivityDate="2017-05-25T15:31:30.347" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4114" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2017-05-20T03:03:47.963" Score="0" Body="For questions, specifically, about the Kossel family of printers. Questions about Delta printers in general have their own tag." OwnerUserId="4762" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2017-05-21T20:25:25.497" LastActivityDate="2017-05-21T20:25:25.497" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4115" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-05-20T04:58:18.703" Score="1" ViewCount="238" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there an algorithm that Slic3r uses to generate the infill? I'm doing a research on toolpath algorithms and improving my prints by the way or controlling the path it takes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wasn't too good in searching the right keywords within the source, so it will probably be good if someone could point me to the source code where it works too!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6413" LastEditorUserId="6413" LastEditDate="2017-05-20T12:37:32.723" LastActivityDate="2017-05-20T12:37:32.723" Title="Does anyone know what kind of algorithm Slic3r uses to generate its toolpath?" Tags="|slic3r|algorithm|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2017-05-23T15:14:56.353" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4116" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-05-20T11:55:22.813" Score="2" ViewCount="199" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm doing research on changing the fill density into the air gap width, adjacent strand spacing, or whatever, instead of using the fill density, as it will give me more precise controls.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Question 1:&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All I can work out is from Slic3r's the source code in &lt;code&gt;~/Slic3r/xs/src/libslic3r/Flow.cpp&lt;/code&gt;,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/alexrj/Slic3r/blob/master/xs/src/libslic3r/Flow.cpp#L58&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Link to Flow.cpp source code&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;/* This method returns the centerline spacing between an extrusion using this&#xA;   flow and another one using another flow.&#xA;   this-&amp;gt;spacing(other) shall return the same value as other.spacing(*this) */&#xA;&#xA;float Flow::spacing(const Flow &amp;amp;other) const {&#xA;   assert(this-&amp;gt;height == other.height);&#xA;   assert(this-&amp;gt;bridge == other.bridge);&#xA;&#xA;   if (this-&amp;gt;bridge) {&#xA;      return this-&amp;gt;width/2 + other.width/2 + BRIDGE_EXTRA_SPACING; //Line A&#xA;   }&#xA;   return this-&amp;gt;spacing()/2 + other.spacing()/2;                   //Line B&#xA;}&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I am right, will changing &lt;code&gt;Line A&lt;/code&gt; or &lt;code&gt;Line B&lt;/code&gt;, be the right way to change its infill adjacent strand spacing? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Question 2:&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And since we're on this topic, what does the &lt;code&gt;bridge&lt;/code&gt; variable represent?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6413" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2017-05-21T02:06:44.337" LastActivityDate="2017-06-21T01:30:31.703" Title="Does anyone know how Slic3r determines its infill adjacent strand spacing, instead of using fill density?" Tags="|slic3r|infill|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4117" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4118" CreationDate="2017-05-20T20:46:47.597" Score="1" ViewCount="1803" Body="&lt;p&gt;Acetone is banned in my country, and I cannot get it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What substitute could I use?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7195" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2017-05-21T10:45:51.403" LastActivityDate="2017-05-21T10:45:51.403" Title="I need an acetone substitute" Tags="|filament|prusa-i3|abs|quality|acetone|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4118" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4117" CreationDate="2017-05-21T00:22:01.223" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The answer really depends on what you are using it for. Is it for dissolving ABS? A &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/search?q=accetone%20substitute&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;quick google search&lt;/a&gt; should show you what you want.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The thread, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.researchgate.net/post/Could_you_recommend_me_a_suitable_alternative_to_acetone_as_solvent&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Could you recommend me a suitable alternative to acetone as solvent?&lt;/a&gt;, has a good many points that are worth considering:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, you may need to consider the &lt;em&gt;Polarity Index&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://macro.lsu.edu/howto/solvents/Polarity%20index.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Burdick &amp;amp; Jackson solvents&lt;/a&gt; are arranged in order of increasing&#xA;  polarity index, a relative measure of the degree of interaction of the&#xA;  solvent with various polar test solutes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are using it to dissolve a polymer other than ABS, then the family/class of polymer may need to be considered:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Apart from your desired solvent qualities (non-flammability and low boiling point), the choice will be totally dependent on the family/ class which the polymer  belongs. Based on the principal that 'like dissolves like, the attached document will provide you with good ideas on which solvent to use when a particular repeating unit of the polymer is involved. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Butanone is a possibility:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;One alternative is butanone (button-2-one) - this is similar to acetone, but has a much higher boiling point. It is often used for alkylations etc. It has a boiling point of 79-80°C compared to 56°C of acetone. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;or NMP:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;N-methyl-2-pyrrolidone (NMP) can be used. It is a polar aprotic solvent and dissolves many polymers. It has high boiling point ( &gt;200 degree centigrade)  It is soluble in water and easy to dispose which is a great advantage during work up of reactions. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, some other alternative chemicals are listed here (from &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.mindat.org/forum.php?read,6,266290,271485&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Any good alternative to Acetone&lt;/a&gt;?:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Butyl alcohol&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;methyl isobutyl keytone (MIBK)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;denatured alcohol&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;MEK (methyl,ethyl,ketone), i.e. Kleen-Strip MEK Alternative&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ethyl Acetate&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some branded items, from &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.hunker.com/12552932/alternatives-to-acetone&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Alternatives to Acetone&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Surfasolve&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;    &lt;p&gt;Surfasolve is a 100 percent biodegradable acetone replacement that removes adhesives, degreases tools and works as a resin solvent.&#xA;    Surfasolve is a non-regulated product.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Bio-Solv&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;    &lt;p&gt;Bio-Solv is an acetone replacement that is 100 percent biodegradable. It is not deemed a hazmat, so shipping will not cost&#xA;    you more. This acetone alternative is not listed on California&#xA;    Proposition 65, a law passed in 1986 to keep substances that cause&#xA;    cancer and birth defects out of drinking water. Nevertheless, you want&#xA;    to use Bio-Solv in a well-ventilated area because of an unpleasant&#xA;    odor. It is not, however, a hazardous air pollutant. Bio-Solv is not&#xA;    petroleum based.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Replacetone&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;    &lt;p&gt;Replacetone is another acetone alternative. It is nonflammable and nonvolatile. It can be used as an acetone or MEK (methyl ethyl ketone,&#xA;    an industrial solvent) replacement that is biodegradable. Both&#xA;    Replacetone and Bio-Solv are referred to as green acetone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Methyl Acetate&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;    &lt;p&gt;Methyl acetate is offered as an acetone replacement. Manufactured by the Eastman Chemical Company, it is utilized in industrial&#xA;    applications. It is biodegradable, volatile organic compound exempt&#xA;    and non-HAP (hazardous air pollutant)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Important note&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, &lt;em&gt;some of these items may also be banned in your country&lt;/em&gt;, so check first. As you do not say which country that you are from, it is not possible to qualify this statement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is worth remembering that some of these substances are &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; as safe as acetone, and &lt;em&gt;the fumes may be more toxic&lt;/em&gt;, so they should always be used in &lt;em&gt;well ventilated spaces&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4762" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2017-05-21T06:00:13.993" LastActivityDate="2017-05-21T06:00:13.993" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4120" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4126" CreationDate="2017-05-21T05:21:40.173" Score="4" ViewCount="4872" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sometimes supports are very difficult to remove (physically) when I print with ABS. The image below, from &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1613957&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Thingiverse - MOF-5 unit cell&lt;/a&gt;, is after significant effort to remove the yellow ABS supports from a black ABS model.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3Ze3e.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3Ze3e.png&quot; alt=&quot;Yellow ABS supports removed from black ABS model&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've learned about polyvinylalcohol (PVA) as a 3D-printing filament which is soluble in water. It seems like a great option for dual-extruder printers, where you can print the model with ABS or PLA and the supports with PVA, then throw the whole thing in water and let the supports dissolve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've considered other options since PVA is ~4x more expensive than ABS.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Doing a PLA print with ABS supports, followed by dissolution of ABS with acetone, is my best idea currently.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has anyone found success with another option? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1601" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2017-05-21T07:51:30.883" LastActivityDate="2019-05-20T15:10:52.973" Title="Best method to make dissolvable supports?" Tags="|filament|pla|abs|support-structures|support-material|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4121" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4117" CreationDate="2017-05-21T05:27:13.147" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have used DCM (dichloromethane, or ethylene dichloride) to dissolve ABS (or cold-weld/glue parts together).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Acrylonitrile_butadiene_styrene&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;ABS wikipedia page&lt;/a&gt;: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;ABS polymers&lt;/strong&gt; are resistant to aqueous acids, alkalis, concentrated&#xA;  hydrochloric and phosphoric acids, alcohols and animal, vegetable and&#xA;  mineral oils, but they are swollen by glacial acetic acid, carbon&#xA;  tetrachloride and aromatic hydrocarbons and &lt;strong&gt;are attacked by&#xA;  concentrated sulfuric and nitric acids. They are soluble in esters,&#xA;  ketones, ethylene dichloride and acetone&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1601" LastActivityDate="2017-05-21T05:27:13.147" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4122" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-05-21T20:55:25.023" Score="3" ViewCount="1137" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am trying to add auto bed leveling to my Prusa i3. When I run &lt;code&gt;G28&lt;/code&gt; my printer hits the X and Y end stops properly, then it assumes X=25, Y=99 position on the bed and performs Z homing, after which it stays there. The problem is when I run &lt;code&gt;G29&lt;/code&gt; then it starts following the grid points from this position and tries to go out of bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My settings for the grid are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#define LEFT_PROBE_BED_POSITION 10&#xA;#define RIGHT_PROBE_BED_POSITION 140&#xA;#define BACK_PROBE_BED_POSITION 140&#xA;#define FRONT_PROBE_BED_POSITION 20&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And travel limits are set to this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#define X_MAX_POS 150&#xA;#define X_MIN_POS 0&#xA;#define Y_MAX_POS 150&#xA;#define Y_MIN_POS 0&#xA;#define Z_MAX_POS 220&#xA;#define Z_MIN_POS 0&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I guess this might be relevant too:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#ifdef Z_SAFE_HOMING&#xA;&#xA;  #define Z_SAFE_HOMING_X_POINT (X_MAX_LENGTH/2)&#xA;  #define Z_SAFE_HOMING_Y_POINT (Y_MAX_LENGTH/2)&#xA;&#xA;#endif&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7204" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-07-24T07:47:07.900" LastActivityDate="2019-07-24T07:47:07.900" Title="Printer goes beyond the bed when auto leveling" Tags="|printer-building|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4123" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-05-22T00:37:05.237" Score="2" ViewCount="85" Body="&lt;p&gt;After all calibrations the models are missing the lower about 10-15mm depending on their size and shape regardless of the value of Pattern Settings/Origin Distance in Horus which happens to be 21.5mm. Tried from 10 to 30mm with no changes in scanned point clouds. What am I doing wrong?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's the original:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oYVRz.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oYVRz.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And here's the scanned cloud:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YZP1A.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YZP1A.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7207" LastEditorUserId="7207" LastEditDate="2017-05-23T23:42:23.313" LastActivityDate="2017-05-23T23:42:23.313" Title="BQ Ciclop or Horus bury the lower part of a model" Tags="|calibration|scanning|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4124" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4116" CreationDate="2017-05-22T01:19:14.763" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This answer should have been a comment, except I have included the relevant code.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To answer question 2, at a guess, &lt;code&gt;bridge&lt;/code&gt; is simply a boolean (&lt;code&gt;bool&lt;/code&gt;) that specifies whether there is a bridge or not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/alexrj/Slic3r/blob/master/xs/src/libslic3r/Flow.hpp#L32&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Flow.hpp line 32&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;/// Represents material flow; provides methods to predict material spacing. &#xA;class Flow&#xA;{&#xA;    public:&#xA;    float width, height, nozzle_diameter;&#xA;    bool bridge;&#xA;&#xA;    Flow(float _w, float _h, float _nd, bool _bridge = false)&#xA;        : width(_w), height(_h), nozzle_diameter(_nd), bridge(_bridge) {};&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally lines &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/alexrj/Slic3r/blob/master/xs/src/libslic3r/Flow.hpp#L68&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;68-73&lt;/a&gt;, may also be of interest:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;    private:&#xA;    static float _bridge_width(float nozzle_diameter, float bridge_flow_ratio);&#xA;    /// Calculate a relatively sane extrusion width, based on height and nozzle diameter.&#xA;    /// Algorithm used does not play nice with layer heights &amp;lt; 0.1mm. &#xA;    static float _auto_width(FlowRole role, float nozzle_diameter, float height);&#xA;    static float _width_from_spacing(float spacing, float nozzle_diameter, float height, bool bridge);&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, your best bet, to get an accurate answer to &lt;em&gt;both&lt;/em&gt; of your questions, is to contact &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/alexrj&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Alessandro Ranellucci - alexrj&lt;/a&gt;, and ask him - as he is is the designer of the Slic3r code. When you get a reply, maybe you would like to post the answer here... it may be useful for someone else.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4762" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2017-05-22T01:25:23.560" LastActivityDate="2017-05-22T01:25:23.560" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4125" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3771" CreationDate="2017-05-22T01:46:57.570" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Following on from Harvey Lim's &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/3771/commercially-available-3d-printer-fume-and-ufp-extractor#answer-3977&quot;&gt;answer&lt;/a&gt;, to give a concrete example of a DIY filter, which uses active carbon, see &lt;a href=&quot;https://web.archive.org/web/20200514160332/http://www.3dprintfilemarket.com/140629194058.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;ABS 3d Printer Nanoparticle and Chemical Exhaust Air Filter&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;###Description&#xA;Enclose your 3d printer and use this exhaust air filter along with a recirculating air filter to eliminate nanoparticles and chemical fumes. 95 to 99.5% of partilces up to 0.1 micron in size are filtered before air is exhausted into your 3d printing room. This is 3 times better than HEPA filtration. Chemical fumes such as phenols, hydrogen bromide, hydrogen cyanide, and styrene are also filtered out. The amount of chemicals filtered out depends on the amount of carbon filtration media you put into the unit and the strength of the fan you install on the unit. If you are using this for business purposes, you'll have to experiment a bit to have it pass inspection. If you are using it for personal purposes, know that the human nose is extremely sensitive. People who have the gene for hydrogen cyanide detection can smell it down to a concentration of 2 to 10 ppm. Suffice it to say, that if you can smell no evil, you are probably not experiencing evil. This has totally cleared my 3d printing room of nasty fumes. I invite you to try it out for yourself as the cost is very low since I've designed it to use surgical masks and aquarium activated carbon filtration media, which is very affordable. You should change the filtration media and surgical mask every month or 50 hours of printing, whichever comes first. I offer no warranty of any kind as this is an experimental device.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This filter is mentioned in &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/513/what-are-the-best-air-filtration-options-for-enclosures#answer-539&quot;&gt;tbm0115's answer&lt;/a&gt; to &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/513/what-are-the-best-air-filtration-options-for-enclosures&quot;&gt;What are the best air filtration options for enclosures?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4762" LastEditorUserId="25522" LastEditDate="2020-12-01T07:12:35.483" LastActivityDate="2020-12-01T07:12:35.483" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4126" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4120" CreationDate="2017-05-22T16:03:50.977" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've had great success printing with HIPS (high-impact polystyrene) as a support for both PLA and ABS. Most sites recommend it for use with ABS because the materials melt at similar temperatures and work best with heated beds, but I've had good luck using it as a support material with PLA on a bed at 60°C. It doesn't stick as well to PLA as it does to ABS, so supports tend to peel away very readily. The downside is that, if you need the support to anchor your print at all, it doesn’t really stick well enough to accomplish this task. For that, you must pair HIPS with ABS. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you print with ABS or have complicated interwoven support structures, HIPS can be dissolved with D-limonene, a citrus based cleaner sold under various names like Citrisolv (others exist), or with dipentene (a mixture of L and D-limonene that doesn't smell as pleasant). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regarding cost: I've found HIPS to be slightly more expensive than PLA/ABS, but only 1.5x the cost, not 4x like PVA. Additionally, it isn't hydroscopic in the same way as PVA so it lasts longer out of the package. Since you're using it as support, you also tend to use far less filament than you do for the main print (sparse support structures as opposed to solid print structures). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Water-soluble alternatives: There are a few proprietary blends of polymers sold by the big commercial printer manufacturers (3DSystems, Stratasys) that only work in their machines… these are generally soluble in basic solutions (water + sodium hydroxide or sodium carbonate). These are usually very expensive and you'd have to rewind the filament on a spool, as they come in cartridges made for specific printers. You'd also have to experiment with the right build conditions and solution blends to remove the material afterward. Airwolf has a support material called &lt;a href=&quot;https://airwolf3d.com/shop/water-soluble-support-3d-print/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Hydrofill&lt;/a&gt; that purports to be soluble in plain water… I'm not sure how this is different from standard PVA, though I assume it &lt;em&gt;is&lt;/em&gt; different. Hopefully more companies will work on developing water-soluble options to help us keep the 3D printing world full of renewable, less-environmentally-harmful options for filaments (both print and support). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Update:&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ultimaker now has a material called &lt;a href=&quot;https://ultimaker.com/en/products/materials/breakaway&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Ultimaker Breakaway&lt;/a&gt;. After using it for a few models, it works remarkably well, allowing me, for the first time, to print &lt;strong&gt;nice&lt;/strong&gt; rounded surfaces on the bases of my prints. It really does just break away from the surface, much like HIPS but without the lack of adhesion problems between HIPS and PLA. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="102" LastEditorUserId="102" LastEditDate="2018-08-09T16:08:00.917" LastActivityDate="2018-08-09T16:08:00.917" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4127" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4130" CreationDate="2017-05-23T09:11:51.743" Score="2" ViewCount="77" Body="&lt;p&gt;The organization I am working for plans to pull down and rebuild our office building. As some people are a bit sentimental about the old building, we think about making a 3D model of the old building.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The old house was built in the 60s or 70s, when everything was done by hand. So we have some really detailed hand-drawn plans of the building. We also have a nice and detailed (physical) 3D model of the house. However, what we don't have yet is any material that can be processed in modern 3D modeling software.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So this is what my question is about:&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;What is the best (easiest, with reasonable degree of details) way to make a 3D model of the old building?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the moment I think of two different paths:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Transferring the hand drawn plans to a 3D modeling software. I think, Sketchup might be suitable, but I am open for suggestions. It should be something easy to start with as I would like to motivate some colleagues to join the project.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Using some kind of photogrammetry software to transfer the (hand crafted) 3D model of the building to an &quot;electronic&quot; 3D model. I have no experience with this method, however if it works it might be much easier to do.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can you help me to decide which path to choose and give me some tips on how to do it exactly?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7222" LastActivityDate="2017-05-23T20:18:47.007" Title="Best practise of re-modeling a building" Tags="|3d-models|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2017-05-25T15:32:59.180" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4129" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-05-23T10:48:00.637" Score="3" ViewCount="9538" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to print multiple objects in a single G-code file on my Maker Select Plus 3D Printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the Cura &quot;Machine&gt;Machine Settings...&quot; menu, what are the correct settings for &quot;Printer head size&quot; in the upper right quadrant?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My best guess is below:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hJkip.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hJkip.png&quot; alt=&quot;Machine Settings Dialog&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note 1: I'm particularly concerned that I got the min and max directions correct.  For instance, I just swapped my Y min and Y max values because when I tried them the other way, the print head impacted the first object when printing the second.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note 1.5: I added 10 mm to my settings because I was concerned that Cura wasn't accounting for the width of the raft that I usually use when I print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note 2: From what I've read online before posting this question, this printer may be physically the same as the WanHao Duplicator i3.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7223" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-12-10T06:28:30.977" LastActivityDate="2022-01-21T19:22:54.150" Title="Maker Select Plus 3D Printer Head Size Settings for Cura" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|prusa-i3|print-preparation|monoprice-maker-select-plus|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4130" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4127" CreationDate="2017-05-23T20:11:17.793" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;That are certainly trade-offs between the two options.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think main trade-off between the two options you described would be visual details vs. configurability.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With a scanned design you have the ability to capture all the visual details that are in your hand crafted model.  Those same details might require more effort than you are willing to put into a CAD design (like window and door detail and other architectural accents).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The big disadvantage of a scanned model it that it would not be parametric so you can't fiddle with design details - like adjusting the width or spacing of the windows, the position of a door or external approach (stairs, etc).  Also you could play with the external skins/finishes and play with how wood looked as compared to concrete of brick. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another advantage of a CAD model would be that you would not be able to break out components and print them separately because of print volume issues or to be able to print in different colors. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My personal preference would be to create a 3D Model using a CAD package.  The limitation on this would be that it might not have the same level of detail; but it would be much more flexible.  You could probably create the base design pretty easily either from the architectural drawings or by deconstructing the hand crafted model.  The model was probably built from pieces much the same way a 3D CAD model is created.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oFPM2mgkbYM&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;good example&lt;/a&gt; of how to do that.  In the example, they create a pretty detailed house design in Sketchup in 35 min by starting with scans of the architectural drawings.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7WVJX.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7WVJX.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;house model from tutorial&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are quite a few other similar videos so you should look for the one that fits you best.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6417" LastEditorUserId="6417" LastEditDate="2017-05-23T20:18:47.007" LastActivityDate="2017-05-23T20:18:47.007" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4131" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4132" CreationDate="2017-05-24T04:29:47.617" Score="3" ViewCount="1194" Body="&lt;p&gt;Today I received my Monoprice Maker Ultimate 3D Printer. It is a rebranded Wanhao Duplicator 6 for reference. I am using the default settings for a Wanhao Duplicator 6 in Simplify3D.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is the Start G-Code that Simplify3D has setup for me via the Configuration Assistant:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;G28 ; home all axes&#xA;G92 E0 ; zero the extruded length&#xA;G1 Z10 ; lower&#xA;G1 E20 F200 ; purge nozzle quickly&#xA;G1 E10 F60 ; purge nozzle slowly&#xA;G92 E0 ; zero the extruded length again&#xA;G1 E-1.5 F400 ; retract&#xA;G1 X170 Z0 F9000 ; pull away filament&#xA;G1 X180 F9000 ; wipe&#xA;G1 Y20 F9000 ; wipe&#xA;G1 E0 ; feed filament back&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem is that right before a print, the extruder squeezes out a bunch of filament making a nice little spiral tower. It is a waste of filament. I suspect it is all the purging in the Start Code that is doing it, but I don't know what I should change because I don't know what is necessary, so I am coming here to ask the question before I start experimenting. Has anyone had this problem? Does anyone know the solution?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Update: I tried printing one of the models that came on the SD card with the printer (I think it was created with Cura) and the Start G-code is different.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;G21        ;metric values&#xA;G90        ;absolute positioning&#xA;M82        ;set extruder to absolute mode&#xA;M107       ;start with the fan off&#xA;G28 X0 Y0  ;move X/Y to min endstops&#xA;G28 Z0     ;move Z to min endstops&#xA;G1 Z15.0 F4800 ;move the platform down 15mm&#xA;G92 E0                  ;zero the extruded length&#xA;G1 F200 E3              ;extrude 3mm of feed stock&#xA;G92 E0                  ;zero the extruded length again&#xA;G1 F4800&#xA;;Put printing message on LCD screen&#xA;M117 Printing...&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It also uses absolute positioning. It got going without purging a bunch of unnecessary filament on that print. Now I am not sure how to combine these two to get the good working starting G-code. Any ideas?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6442" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-12-10T06:27:28.813" LastActivityDate="2019-12-10T06:27:28.813" Title="Monoprice Maker Ultimate Extrudes Too Much Filament At Start" Tags="|g-code|extrusion|simplify3d|wanhao|monoprice-maker-ultimate|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4132" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4131" CreationDate="2017-05-24T11:08:38.163" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Changing the Simplify3D start script to this will change the nozzle purge to the same length as what was on your SD card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;    G28 ; home all axes&#xA;    G92 E0 ; zero the extruded length&#xA;    G1 Z10 ; lower&#xA;    G1 E20 F200 ; purge nozzle quickly&amp;lt;---------Change E20 to E3, E is the extrusion length&#xA;    G1 E10 F60 ; purge nozzle slowly &amp;lt;----------Remove this line&#xA;    G92 E0 ; zero the extruded length again&#xA;    G1 E-1.5 F400 ; retract&#xA;    G1 X170 Z0 F9000 ; pull away filament&#xA;    G1 X180 F9000 ; wipe&#xA;    G1 Y20 F9000 ; wipe&#xA;    G1 E0 ; feed filament back&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rest of it is just moves to try to clean the nozzle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="233" LastActivityDate="2017-05-24T11:08:38.163" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4133" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4138" CreationDate="2017-05-24T13:52:19.213" Score="6" ViewCount="776" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am having trouble printing a hollow object using Slic3r. On flat slopes on top, there are gaps that I cannot get fixed. The perimeters of successive layers just don't cover each other.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cura however adds filament to cover the gaps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bottom left bunny is sliced with Slic3r 1.2.9.99.&#xA;The top right bunny is sliced with Cura 2.5. Take a closer look at the forehead and the back of the bottom left bunny.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have &quot;extra perimeters if needed&quot; turned on. But turning it off makes no difference. What am I missing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So far only adding infill and increase the solid top layer count helps to get a closed surface. But then everything gets stiffer. The bunnies are printed with nylon so they are a bit squishy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kTkjA.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kTkjA.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Cura and Slic3r Bunnies&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The printer settings in both Cura and Slic3r are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;0.4 mm nozzel;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;0.2 mm layer height;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;No infill;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2 perimeter walls, and;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;3 solid top/bottom layers.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7237" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2017-05-27T07:01:54.797" LastActivityDate="2017-05-27T07:01:54.797" Title="Slic3r settings for flat slopes on top" Tags="|slic3r|slicing|ultimaker-cura|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4134" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4133" CreationDate="2017-05-24T14:10:09.960" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;What infill are you using? How flexible do you need the object to be?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suggest two or three top and bottom layers, and a second or third solid perimeter as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The slicer has to determine if a particular path is part of an external perimeter or a top layer, so adding one to each should give a better result.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thinner layers and a fan cooling the deposited material both help with overhangs like this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4922" LastActivityDate="2017-05-24T14:10:09.960" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4135" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4136" CreationDate="2017-05-24T16:37:21.587" Score="3" ViewCount="1042" Body="&lt;p&gt;What would be the end g-code so that I can get my Monoprice Ultimate (Wanhao D6) to lower the bed to midway on the frame or something easier to remove the print? The default end position is very high up at the top.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6442" LastActivityDate="2017-05-25T00:33:18.380" Title="How do I get my Wanhao Duplicator 6 / Maker Ultimate to lower bed at end of print?" Tags="|g-code|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4136" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4135" CreationDate="2017-05-25T00:33:18.380" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In your ending script add the line below and change Z200.0 to your max Z height.  This will rapid to the given value using absolute coordinates.  I added G90 in case G91 was previously set so it did not do a relative move.  I'm not positive if G91 is modal in printer firmwares or not but the G90 should not hurt anything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;G90 G0 Z200.0&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="233" LastActivityDate="2017-05-25T00:33:18.380" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4138" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4133" CreationDate="2017-05-25T04:13:37.773" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;This seems to be a recurring problem with Slic3r.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Slic3r appears to have problems with perimeters that are not attached to infill.  I suspect that it is getting confused on what is the inside and what is the outside.  I know that seems a bit silly; but as you slice an object with indentations (like the bunny's face) then the perimeter can cease to be a simple closed shape and it gets confused.  If you use a viewer to step through the gcode layers around the place it starts having problems you may be able to see what is going wrong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are a couple of examples of why I say this is a recurring problem with slic3r.  I also recall seeing a video that showed the problem but I can't remember where.  That was one of the reasons I don't use slic3r.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/alexrj/Slic3r/issues/748&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Reported on Sic3r Git in 2012&lt;/a&gt; - Can't tell for sure if this was ever fixed&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?340,512947&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Infill Perimeter issue in 2015&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are three options that may work&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use a different slicer for this specific condition.  Every product is going to have vulnerabilities - this may be one of slic3r's.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Increase the perimeter and top and bottom layer thicknesses.  Making them thick enough it will bridge the problem areas.  Use a gcode viewer to inspect that area to see if it fixed the problem.  That way you don't waste material on another fail. It sounds like you may have already tried this but you didn't like that it made the model stiffer.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Repair the STL file using an application like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.meshmixer.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Meshmixer&lt;/a&gt;.  Maybe you will have to get the file close then tweak it where it doesn't.  Here is good article from &lt;a href=&quot;https://pinshape.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;PinShape&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;https://pinshape.com/blog/how-to-repair-your-stl-files/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;repairing and STL file&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck, hope this helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6417" LastEditorUserId="6417" LastEditDate="2017-05-25T05:32:51.533" LastActivityDate="2017-05-25T05:32:51.533" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4139" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4122" CreationDate="2017-05-25T11:26:37.923" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't know how your firmware load handles &lt;code&gt;G29&lt;/code&gt; ,but here's a guess, based on information at the  &lt;a href=&quot;http://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#G29:_Detailed_Z-Probe&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;reprap wiki&lt;/a&gt; .  Try using &lt;code&gt;FBLR&lt;/code&gt; to force the travel limits. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;h3&gt;Parameters&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;P Set the size of the grid that will be probed (P x P&#xA;  points). Not supported by non-linear delta printer bed leveling. &#xA;  Example: G29 P4 S Set the XY travel speed between probe points (in&#xA;  units/min)&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  D Dry-Run mode. Just evaluate the bed Topology - Don't&#xA;  apply or clean the rotation Matrix. Useful to check the topology after&#xA;  a first run of G29.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  V Set the verbose level (0-4). Example: G29 V3&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  T&#xA;  Generate a Bed Topology Report. Example: G29 P5 T for a detailed&#xA;  report. This is useful for manual bed leveling and finding flaws in&#xA;  the bed (to assist with part placement). Not supported by non-linear&#xA;  delta printer bed leveling.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  F Set the Front limit of the probing grid&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  B Set the Back limit of the probing grid.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;     L Set the Left limit of the&#xA;  probing grid&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  R Set the Right limit of the probing grid&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2191" LastActivityDate="2017-05-25T11:26:37.923" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4141" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4084" CreationDate="2017-05-25T20:31:49.807" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;IMHO - if you seek hands-off unattended fire safety you'd be looking at something a bit more specific to that job than measuring or limiting the temperature of printer components. That's great, as far as it goes, when it works, but it's not anything like a complete solution. Cutting off the electrical supply won't put out a fire that has progressed to burning plastic, etc. Reasonable over-current protection for a start. Contain the printer inside a metal cabinet or cementboard-lined closet (a non-flammable enclosure), add a heat and/or smoke detector in the top of that enclosure, and rig that to not only cut off power to the printer, but (given things have gone far enough wrong to set that off) also set off an extinguishing means (the effectiveness of which will be enhanced by an enclosure.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A little bit of looking finds (for predictably high prices, sorry) that there are, indeed, fire extinguishers with a &quot;sprinker-head&quot; valve attached for this type of &quot;spot suppression&quot; job that would cover the &quot;set off an extinguisher&quot; part of the job without need of any power. You'd still want a heat detector that would shut off the electrical supply to the printer in the event of abnormally high temperatures in the enclosure, and you might want a smoke detector doing the same. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is probably representative of about 0% of actual installations at present, but it would be a good way to reduce the risk in the event of a serious malfunction. Presumably the current distribution of risk looks a lot like the maker stating: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&quot;the recommendation is, when printing, to watch the 3D printer at all&#xA;  times and never leave a print unattended.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And then the user choosing not to do so, putting the responsibility for any bad result on the user as not following the maker's recommendation, however impractical.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6853" LastActivityDate="2017-05-25T20:31:49.807" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4142" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="889" CreationDate="2017-05-25T20:49:18.147" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cool Idea.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know using a projector sounds like solution; but, I in practice, think it is going to be difficult.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My concern with trying to use a projector would be two-fold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It would have to project on a large flat surface.  Since basic optics wants to focus on a sphere, when projecting on a flat surface you have to adjust for a focus distance that varies with angle and also deal with &lt;a href=&quot;http://projectors-av.co.uk/keystone_lens_shift.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;keysoning&lt;/a&gt;. I know this is a common problem fro projectors; but, there is no perfect solution so either.    The focus issue may be solvable with custom optics; but, that is not something that is easy to DIY.  The keystoning could be corrected for with optics and/or in software; but even then you are going to have inconsistent resolution.  Not only that; but, the problem gets worse the wider and closer you are, which is EXACLY what you want to do.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I would be concerned that the frequency range that the SLA resin cures at will be outside the normal range of projector so you would require A LOT more power/time to get it to cure.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other hand, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.lighting-geek.com/product-category/laser-lights/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;lasers light projectors&lt;/a&gt; are a well established technology.  They moved into the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.aliexpress.com/popular/programmable-laser-light-show.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;entertainment&lt;/a&gt; space quite a few years ago; so, I suspect you could get one that covers the space you are interested in for a reasonable price. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Since laser beams are very narrow, focus should not be an issue.  Keysoning can be easily accounted for in the sweep algorithm.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You could choose the frequency of the laser to that it in the most efficient curing frequency for the resin you want to use.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6417" LastActivityDate="2017-05-25T20:49:18.147" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4143" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4129" CreationDate="2017-05-26T18:08:18.143" Score="5" Body="&lt;h3&gt;TL;DR&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The settings that you seem to need can be found here: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/groups/i3/topic:6818&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Print One At a time settings? CURA&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;You actually can!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Providing that none of your object is too tall (taller than the Gantry&#xA;  clearance). Also the objects cannot be too close from each other (when&#xA;  you activate the option and move objects on the bed, you see a gray&#xA;  box around them showing this limit).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The reason you cannot use it at the moment is probably because you&#xA;  didn't filled the printer head size parameters (Menu &quot;Machine -&gt;&#xA;  Machine Settings...&quot;). You will have to measure them, but on mine&#xA;  (Australian clone of the i3) I use those values and it works fine:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Head size toward X min: 30 &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Head size toward Y min: 70 &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Head size toward X max: 60 &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Head size toward Y max: 50 &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Printer gantry height: 35 &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Those are &quot;conservative&quot; values (a little bigger than the actual&#xA;  values). It means I'm losing a little bed space, but I prefer that to&#xA;  the risk of having the print head knocking out previous prints if one&#xA;  of the measurements is too low :o).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;PS: The option will automatically disable itself if some object&#xA;  dimension are too big to avoid collisions&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To be fair, the rest of the thread is people debating whether you can successfully achieve &lt;em&gt;sequential printing&lt;/em&gt;, or not, with the Wanhao Duplicator I3. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, the setting above seem to be the settings that you are looking for. Apart from &lt;em&gt;Head size toward X max&lt;/em&gt;, they also correlate, pretty much, to the settings that you have already determined. As the poster notes, their settings are, somewhat, on the conservative side, which would explain the difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Extra detail&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this is so that you can achieve &lt;em&gt;sequential printing&lt;/em&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;, then this may not be suitable for your printer, unfortunately. Sequential printing works best for printers with a long nozzle with nothing (fans, X-axis gantry, etc.) around it, for example a delta printer with a low hanging nozzle would be ideal. Your printer type has a wide head with attachments, as well as an X-axis gantry, and so the clearance is less than that of an (ideal) delta.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See &lt;a href=&quot;https://groups.google.com/forum/#!topic/wanhao-printer-3d/giqKBkZAjBM&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;WanHao Duplicator i3 Printer Head Size Settings for Cura&lt;/a&gt; for more details.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you wish to go ahead and still try it, then from the &lt;a href=&quot;https://groups.google.com/forum/#!topic/wanhao-printer-3d/giqKBkZAjBM&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;same link&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The way to measure is lower the nozzle to the bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Then measure the space taken up around the nozzle by the heater block, fans, mounting, the motor, and finally, the distance between the X axis rods and the bed &quot;WHEN the nozzle is touching the bed&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;That gives you some idea of the clearance you have where an ALREADY printed object can exist on the bed and NOT get slammed into the gantry or moving head when printing a second sequential part.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Just a visual with a moving bed printer and it's not promising.&#xA;  Not impossible, but in a 200mm square build area, you might really only get 4 objects at a time in the 4 quadrants.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Even that is height limited because the gantry will slam into it at a certain height.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Maybe some weird staggering pattern.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, of use, for obtaining your own measurements, from &lt;a href=&quot;https://ultimaker.com/en/community/7451-cura-1407-printer-head-size&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Ultimaker - Cura 14.07 Printer Head Size&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If I'm not mistaken all measurements are taken from the nozzle tip. So, for the first one, measure the size of your head from the nozzle tip towards the direction in X to where your machine homes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;There's a tooltip when you mouse over these settings which describes what they mean.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Gantry height is the vertical clearance between the build plate and your x-y gantry (on the Ultimaker, these are the 6mm shafts which hold the head).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If you print two objects - one after another - then the first object must be shorter in height than the gantry height. Otherwise, the gantry would crash into the first part while printing the second part.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In more detail, paying attention to the placing of the objects can aid with any issues that you have with a low gantry:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If you place multiple parts in a diagonal line across the build-plate so the gantry and head never intersects earlier parts after printing them, you can set the gantry height to an artificially high value, to ignore it, without problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I place pieces along a diagonal from right-front to left-rear, to avoid conflict when the head homes after finishing the print. I can fit 3 to 4 small but tall pieces on the build plate that way for sequential printing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The purpose of these &lt;em&gt;Printer head size&lt;/em&gt; settings is to enable Cura to determine the order in which the objects are printed:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;... none of those settings are important as long as you only print one STL file at a time. It's when you want to print multiple objects &quot;one at a time&quot; that these numbers have a purpose - it allows Cura to figure out which order to print them in and if it can do them one at a time or if it has to print them all at once.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Footnote&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; &lt;em&gt;Sequential Printing&lt;/em&gt; is where one object is &lt;em&gt;completely&lt;/em&gt; printed, before moving on to the next object, instead of the usual method of printing all objects &lt;em&gt;simultaneously&lt;/em&gt; one layer at a time. This method can give superior quality prints, but not always. The main advantage appears to be reduced &quot;stringing&quot; of filament between objects, and a cleaner surface finish, due to reduced print head movement between objects. The process is detailed in &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.simplify3d.com/support/articles/multi-part-printing/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Multi-part printing&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4762" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2017-05-27T12:53:42.820" LastActivityDate="2017-05-27T12:53:42.820" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4144" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4145" CreationDate="2017-05-27T15:59:45.830" Score="2" ViewCount="958" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got the following PLA filament that is not feeding correctly into our Ultimaker 2+&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It starts to feed and then all of the sudden, the wire 'eats' (read &lt;em&gt;breaks, but not entirely&lt;/em&gt;) the plastic filament as you can see on the picture below:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OnQy7.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OnQy7.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Photo of damaged filament&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any hints are more than welcomed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1201" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2019-08-31T08:19:22.847" LastActivityDate="2019-08-31T08:19:22.847" Title="PLA filament not feeding correctly with Ultimaker 2+" Tags="|filament|ultimaker-2|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4145" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4144" CreationDate="2017-05-27T19:15:31.653" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The photograph and your description indicate that the drive gear is eating the filament because the filament has stopped moving. The least likely problem would be that something is jammed at the spool or between the spool and the entry to the drive mechanism.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The more likely problem is that your nozzle is clogged. It is simple to determine if that is the case. If you have a direct drive mechanism (not a bowden tube type), remove all the filament and release the wheel or bearing that presses the filament against the hobbed pulley, which is the part connected to the motor or driven gear if you have a geared mechanism.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Heat the nozzle up to correct temperature for PLA and attempt to push filament through the nozzle. If it does not move, your nozzle is clogged and has to be cleared.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A nozzle clog can be caused by a too-low temperature or a too-high temperature resulting in burned material becoming jammed in the nozzle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have a 0.40 nozzle, find that size of nozzle tool or use a 0.40 mm drill bit and carefully push and turn it into the nozzle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also consider to use nylon cleaning method. This involves heating the nozzle to the correct temperature for melting nylon filament, forcing it into the hot end, then allowing it to cool. Reheating it while pulling on the filament will remove some of the debris. Eventually, it will pass through the nozzle and will also pull out clean, with no debris on the end of the filament. It is suggested to research &quot;nylon cleaning method&quot; to learn correct temperatures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have used the nylon cleaning method and have removed debris from overheated filament in the past. I have been able to shine a bright light from below and see the open nozzle after completing the process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The above steps are identical for bowden type systems and require to remove the bowden tube to access the hot end more effectively. The tube can be removed from either the hot end or the drive end, but force is more effectively applied if the tube is removed from the hot end.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastActivityDate="2017-05-27T19:15:31.653" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4146" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3015" CreationDate="2017-05-28T05:50:36.183" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;This is mere supposition on my part, and not a definitive answer. This was posted prior to Alvaro's answer.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In response, or - rather - with respect to, to the comments under the question by &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/3015/z-axis-top-brackets-of-p3steel-differ-between-v1-x-2-x-and-v4#comment3919_3015&quot;&gt;tjb1&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/3015/z-axis-top-brackets-of-p3steel-differ-between-v1-x-2-x-and-v4#comment3916_3015&quot;&gt;Tom&lt;/a&gt;, I have been reading around the topic, and found some interesting articles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The excerpt below from &amp;quot;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.soliforum.com/topic/2342/backlash-hysterisis-and-wobble-an-exploration-of-the-topic/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;An exploration of the topic&lt;/a&gt;&amp;quot;, backs up Tom's argument about constraining the rods at both ends being bad practice, and explains why it is so. Whilst acknowledging that a loose, or floating end, is still an issue that needs to be dealt with, the article also states that constraining the end is not really a solution, as it can create more problems elsewhere (I have added the bold highlighting to the relevant text):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wobble is pretty simple. Because the lead screw is mounted rigidly to&#xA;the motor, it needs to be perfectly straight and square to the axis&#xA;its trying to move. If it's not, as the motor rotates, that offset will&#xA;be converted into an elliptical motion instead of turning in a perfect&#xA;circle.  In big CNC world, as the axis is normally bolted to a&#xA;huge/heavy table which refuses to yield to this movement, it results&#xA;in breaking your motor or motor coupling (weakest point in the&#xA;connection). This is what flex couplings are designed to fix – if you&#xA;can’t guarantee a perfectly square mating between motor and axis, you&#xA;use a coupler with flex so that any movement can be soaked up in&#xA;flexing the coupler and the lead screw/rod moves in a nice circle&#xA;without busting your motor or mounts.  This is true when you have a&#xA;good solid supported connection on the lead screw like you’d see on a&#xA;‘proper’ CNC.  &lt;strong&gt;However on the Solidoodle, as the top end of the Z-Axis&#xA;is ‘unsupported’ and its only connection to &lt;em&gt;anything&lt;/em&gt; is to the table&#xA;via a tiny little nut, its free to ‘flop about in the breeze’ so to&#xA;speak.&lt;/strong&gt; Even a small 0.1mm offset from center can result in a much much&#xA;greater ‘wiggle’ at the top of the screw clearly visible to the eye.&#xA;Throw in even a 0.05mm bend in the rod, and it gets further amplified.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Adding better support to the axis, through a taller nut, multiple&#xA;nuts, or &lt;strong&gt;supporting the end, would reduce the influence of this&#xA;wobble. You do however, risk moving it to something else entirely&lt;/strong&gt; –&#xA;for example, making the lead screw rigid would mean that the forces&#xA;would end up moving the motor itself, potentially causing fatigue&#xA;issues with how its bolted to the sheet metal case (mine already moves&#xA;a fair bit and its ‘stock’... making the screw rigid would see the&#xA;motor having to absorb all that movement instead of half of it&#xA;disappearing in movement of the screw...). Solving the motor movement&#xA;by securing it ‘better’ to the case would mean that the movement now&#xA;gets soaked up in the motor shaft and bearing, leading to premature&#xA;stepper motor death.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thus, when first posting this question, I had originally presumed that the earlier versions of the model would be superior: Due to the fact that the earlier versions secured the top of the z-axis screw mechanism, then that would reduce the amount of &amp;quot;flapping about&amp;quot; of the loose end, which in turn would result in &lt;em&gt;less wobble&lt;/em&gt;. However, I had not bargained for the negative consequences (such as the increased motor wear, mentioned above).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, is the reason that the top brackets of the z-axis, in the version 4 of the frame, lost their threaded rod/leadscrew top-end constraint, therefore to prevent premature motor wear, at the expense of exhibited wobble?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4762" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2022-06-12T18:12:43.647" LastActivityDate="2022-06-12T18:12:43.647" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4147" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3278" CreationDate="2017-05-28T08:08:07.380" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've solved unsoldering the diode(D1) on RAMPS. This diode provides to power the arduino board with 12V. If you have a chinese arduino this will probably cause some problems.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jdb18.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jdb18.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope this will help someone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5383" LastActivityDate="2017-05-28T08:08:07.380" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4149" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-05-28T12:15:14.220" Score="4" ViewCount="2102" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an E3D v6 1.75mm bowden. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I print, there is a gap between infill lines, and also when printing rectilinear/hexagonal infill lines seem to be pretty slim.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My settings:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Slicer: Slic3r&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Nozzle size: 0.4mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Print speed: 30mm/s&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;First layer print speed: 15mm/s&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Travel speed: 90mm/s&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Retraction length: 0.8mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Retraction speed: 40mm/s&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Extrude ratio: 1 (tried also with 0.48mm extrusion width, I remember it's the default S3D setting, so I gave it a try)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Print temperature: 220 °C&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Material: PLA&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Firmware settings:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Firmware: Marlin 1.1.0-1&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Motion system: CoreXY&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Acceleration: 1000&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;VMax X: 300&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;VMax Y: 300&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;VMax Z: 5&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;VMax E: 80&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Xsteps/mm: 80.05&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ysteps/mm: 80.05&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Zsteps/mm: 400&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Esteps/mm: 96.5&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Disclaimer: I set Esteps/mm to 96.5 because I calibrated the printer as described &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-calibrate-the-Extruder-on-your-3d-Printer/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;, so I'm 100% sure it's an accurate setting. Same for X,Y,Z steps. I printed a cube and calculated the real steps per millimeter, and it's accurate too. The extruder motor works, it's not the issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here you can find some pictures that show what I'm trying to describe:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Y8kQw.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Y8kQw.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Z5DX0.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Z5DX0.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While printing I tried to release the extruder motor clamp and push the filament by hand: it extruded 1mm thick lines, so the extruder is not clogged and is perfectly capable of extruding the required amount of PLA.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it possible that the &lt;code&gt;VMax E&lt;/code&gt; parameter is preventing the extruder motor to extrude properly? I mean, could it be that it's trying to extrude at a higher speed than the maximum allowed? Seems weird to me, because comments in Marlin's &lt;code&gt;Configuration.h&lt;/code&gt; file say &lt;code&gt;Default Max Feed Rate (mm/s)&lt;/code&gt; for that parameter, so if the limit is set to 80mm/s it should extrude just fine. If this is the issue, how should I solve it? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5317" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2019-09-30T10:22:10.580" LastActivityDate="2019-09-30T10:22:10.580" Title="E3D V6 underextruding always?" Tags="|marlin|extruder|extrusion|e3d-v6|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4150" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4152" CreationDate="2017-05-28T14:05:55.497" Score="2" ViewCount="1661" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had to pause an ongoing print (because of complicated reasons) and that caused the printer to reboot (I don't know why).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When it rebooted, the Z extents were screwed up. I know this because when I gave the print again, the nozzle hit the print bed and started grinding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The printer has an auto bed levelling function that runs before every print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It takes three points on the bed where the sensor needle comes down to contact in a vertical to-and-fro motion. When that runs now, the head starts its vertical to-and-fro motion from a point considerably higher than where it used to start from earlier. The sensor needle does come down to touch the bed but it takes a longer time per point since the distance travelled is more now. (Hope this is clear)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To print again, I compensated for the Z-direction by giving a global offset (2.65&amp;nbsp;mm) while generating G-code. But I realised later that X and Y dimensions were incorrect (larger by 4.6% to be precise). I tested this by printing cubes of 10, 20, 30 and 100&amp;nbsp;mm. The Z dimensions are perfect though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, there have been weird &quot;lags&quot; while printing larger objects. The print head stutters and this is causing sharp vertexes in between curves and some little blotching of material.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The printer runs on Repetier 0.92.6 and I've been reading about it but its honestly intimidating to me. Please let me know how to figure out what to change and by how much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit&lt;/strong&gt;: I agree this is quite similar to scaling issues thread here: &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/3983/scaling-size-issues-in-delta-printers&quot;&gt;Scaling/size issues in delta printers&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I just want to know what could've caused this problem, whether there are any other possible solutions, and how to get started with Repetier framework.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit2&lt;/strong&gt;: Attached image is the bottom surface of the 100&amp;nbsp;mm cube. You might notice slight charring on the bottom right corner. The masking sheet I pasted on the print bed was charred underneath. Also, it's evident that the bottom surface is not as compact at the corners as it is in the center.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Yk3IA.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Yk3IA.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;100mm cube bottom surface&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What could be the possible reasons for that?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7285" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2017-05-29T03:55:13.417" LastActivityDate="2017-05-29T15:31:45.500" Title="Delta printer printing incorrect dimensions in X and Y directions. Z dimensions are correct" Tags="|delta|repetier|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4152" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4150" CreationDate="2017-05-29T15:21:59.087" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As detailed at minow.blogspot.com (which I found very helpful for the most part - it was the first link in the answer to my related question) you need to &lt;strong&gt;check/adjust the zero in front of each tower&lt;/strong&gt;, &lt;strong&gt;check the zero in the center&lt;/strong&gt;, tweak the radius, and repeat (checking the zeros at the edge of the bed in front of each tower again) until it's correct. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;After&lt;/strong&gt; that you &lt;strong&gt;adjust the rod length&lt;/strong&gt; to correct XY size (and recheck all 4 zeros, thus the radius - it makes for a less than exciting day, but is worth it in the long run.) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You either need to turn off EEPROM until you have the right settings, or save the setting to EEPROM each time - depends how worried you are about using up EEPROM write cycles, I guess.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should also turn off auto-bed-levelling while getting the basic calibration correct, per the same blog instructions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My fun with figuring out what my EEPROM was doing behind my back is here:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/q/3996/6853&quot;&gt;Delta printer not responding to changes in DELTA_RADIUS&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6853" LastEditorUserId="6853" LastEditDate="2017-05-29T15:31:45.500" LastActivityDate="2017-05-29T15:31:45.500" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4153" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-05-29T17:07:07.633" Score="3" ViewCount="5861" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can't understand how to best tune my slicer settings in order to get better bridges...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've downloaded a simple test off thingiverse and printed at different speeds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are the results, &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/HaeCBru3mOI&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;bridging tests (youtube link)&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the left we can see that going at a slow (10&amp;nbsp;mm/s) speed results in a very poor first layer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the right at Slic3r Auto setting which I believe is 60&amp;nbsp;mm/s is better but there are still a few strings hanging...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The middle one is printed at 30&amp;nbsp;mm/s and looks the best.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the one hand I was expecting faster = better because the plastic wouldn't have time to fall, but I once saw a video somewhere off a printer bridging at 10&amp;nbsp;mm/s and it came out flawless!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I decided to do some testing of my own and now I'm more confused than before.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why did the 30&amp;nbsp;mm/s turn out better than the others and how can I improve my bridging?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7048" LastEditorUserId="7048" LastEditDate="2017-05-30T11:24:52.207" LastActivityDate="2017-05-31T19:12:36.027" Title="Help understanding bridge settings" Tags="|speed|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4154" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4156" CreationDate="2017-05-29T17:40:26.627" Score="8" ViewCount="10992" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm a new one for this community.&#xA;This also not directly related with 3D printing.&#xA;I searched about this and I couldn't find good answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of my friends told me CNC machining centers (Milling) mostly use servo motors and CNC laser cutter and plasma cutters use stepper motors mostly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Position controlling is more accurate in servo motors than steppers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think position controlling is more important in laser and plasma cutters than CNC machining centers, but laser and plasma cutters use stepper motors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why do laser and plasma cutters use steppers without using servo motors?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;P.S.&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;This question has more area than 3D printing and CNC routing.And also, This question asked for more reason for why use steppers in laser cutters,plasma cutters and CNC router.SO, this is not a duplicate of &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/3842/reprap-variants-with-servo-motors-rather-than-stepper-motors&quot;&gt;this &lt;/a&gt; one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7294" LastEditorUserId="7294" LastEditDate="2017-05-30T07:05:14.763" LastActivityDate="2017-07-26T06:06:37.853" Title="Servo vs Stepper" Tags="|stepper|servo|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4155" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4149" CreationDate="2017-05-29T21:31:51.340" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Major factors affecting extrusion:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Nozzle diameter&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Extrusion ratio&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Extrusion stepper calibration&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Filament actual diameter&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Extrusion width setting&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Nozzle temperature&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to the photos, temperature is acceptable (may be a bit high, but it is not a problem in this case). Extrusion ratio is 1 and should not be changed in normal operation. Extrusion width is often set to auto but sometimes calibrating it gives better results in slic3r. If stepper is calibrated properly, then I would check for nozzle and filament diameters. For nozzle it should be enough to verify that 0.4 bit fits in and 0.5 doesn't. Filament can be measured by digital caliper. Difference between 1.75 and 1.73mm may have significant difference resulting in under-extrusion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3839" LastActivityDate="2017-05-29T21:31:51.340" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4156" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4154" CreationDate="2017-05-30T00:02:51.927" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;Servos do have several advantages; but, they are more expensive and more difficult to control.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Generally, a servo motor is a DC motor but with an encoder to provide position feedback.  A circuit (can be a computer) then compares the actual position (from the encoder) against the commanded position and uses the error to determine how much power to put to the motor (usually by PWM).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some of the advantages of servos:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The encoders on the motor often have thousands of counts per revolution so they are accurate.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;They are a great choice for controlling a large mass.  When beginning a motion, the control loop can detect that more power is required when the encoder does not respond as fast as expected thus putting more power to the motor. This will them automatically reduce as the motor reaches speed and no longer needs the acceleration torque. Also, the servo loop can also apply reverse torque when trying to slow down the large mass to limit overshot.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some of the disadvantages of servos:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The DC Motors used for servos reach peak power at thousands of RPM.  That means to use them on a printer you will need to gear them down.  This adds to the expense.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You need electronics to PWM the power to the DC Motor and to close the servo loop (usually at least 1&amp;nbsp;KHz).  This can require a lot of the CPU.  Probably would be more than a Melzi could do since it is already maxed out.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The servo loop tuning can cause the motor to buzz when it is holding position on an unloaded axis.  This could cause print issues.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know you have likely seen cheap servos out there often called &quot;hobby servos&quot;. These are often used in RC.  These use a creative trick that allows them to use a cheap potentiometer to create an inexpensive control loop.  The limit to this &quot;trick&quot; is that it CAN NOT rotate a full 360°; thus, it CAN NOT run a continuous axis.  Yes, I know there are hobby servos out there that are called continuous rotation servos; but, they do that by disconnecting the potentiometer.  In that case they are no longer servos.  This is just a way to use the same control interface to control a standard DC motor and the motors are not accurate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Stepper motors on the other hand:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Are really cheap;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Don't require complicated drive circuits or control loops;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Love to hold position without a load.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Their downside is that their rotational accuracy is limited by the physical poles of the motor.  This can be improved using micro-stepping; but, there are limits.  Also, it is difficult (often impractical) to determine if the motor missed a step.  That can usually be handled by just making sure that the load on the motor is always well below the step torque.  This often involves managing the motor acceleration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In summary, servos are great for some applications; but, for low cost situations like 3D printing, steppers are hard to beat.  It is likely servos needed for milling CNCs because the cutting head is much more massive than an extruder or laser and the servo control loop is needed to provide accurate motion for the higher mass.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6417" LastEditorUserId="6417" LastEditDate="2017-05-30T02:32:05.000" LastActivityDate="2017-05-30T02:32:05.000" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4157" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4153" CreationDate="2017-05-30T02:39:00.907" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The engineering approach is that if 30mm/s is working best on your equipment (at least on that day), you should use it; at least until it doesn't work so well for you. You might also try more different speeds (closer to 30 than to 10 or the assumed 60) in case one works even better than 30mm/s - though you might also want to question the assumed 60 (or test a set 60) since assumptions can bite you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's not going to be a fixed speed that's always best independent of the printer - &lt;strong&gt;everything&lt;/strong&gt; is dependent on the printer, and its environment - if the temperature of the room varies a lot, it could change the &quot;best setting&quot; on days of different room temperatures. Perhaps the &quot;10mm/s&quot; that you saw working well was using a more effective cooling fan while bridging, or had other differences from your particular unit - or had different settings (other than speed - nozzle temperature, for instance) which impacted the result.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;(note that I have limited tolerance for videos, and have not actually looked at yours, so if you're going to come back with &quot;but I don't have a cooling fan&quot;, please post a picture of the printer or results that does not involve needing to sit through a video. And perhaps add a cooling fan...)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for &quot;understanding how to best tune your slicer settings&quot; - far more testing, and keep track of the results. So, do tests (without altering other parameters) at 20, 25, 35, 40, 45, 50, 55 mm/s.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on the results of those tests, say you find the best results at 35-40mm/s, perhaps you try 47 and compare that. Perhaps there's no real difference between the 3, so it's in that range, but not picky. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then alter one other thing (nozzle temperature comes to mind first, but perhaps it's &quot;fan speed for bridging&quot; or some other, single, item) and do more testing - likely the best speed will change, so you'll need to re-run a range of speeds at the new setting. And keep track of which results (test prints) go with which settings, so you can go back to the ones that work best. Then alter that parameter more, or alter another parameter. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the most part, there comes a point where it's good enough, or at least where you're sick of testing for a while and results are good enough until you want to test / tune some more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you change many things at once, it's hard to isolate cause and effect. If you test many settings but lose track of which settings were used for what result, it can be hard to progess towards better results consistently. When you find a range that seems to make no difference (and it's as good as it gets), be happy that the parameter is not too sensitive, and tend towards the middle of it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6853" LastEditorUserId="6853" LastEditDate="2017-05-31T19:12:36.027" LastActivityDate="2017-05-31T19:12:36.027" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4158" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-05-30T07:07:17.383" Score="6" ViewCount="3531" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have just finished building a Tronxy P802M Prusa i3.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I try to move the Z-axis, using the hardware buttons in the LCD menu (without a computer connected), it only goes down, when I both increase, and decrease, the value of Z.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any suggestions?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7296" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2018-07-08T14:43:11.330" LastActivityDate="2021-06-24T05:13:56.017" Title="Prusa i3 Z axis only goes down (even on up command)" Tags="|printer-building|z-axis|tronxy-p802|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4161" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4163" CreationDate="2017-05-30T10:43:50.183" Score="3" ViewCount="544" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm in the process of tweaking the firmware (Repetier 0.92.6) because of some problems mentioned here: &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/4150/delta-printer-printing-incorrect-dimensions-in-x-and-y-directions-z-dimensions&quot;&gt;Delta printer printing incorrect dimensions in X and Y directions. Z dimensions are correct&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I found out that the printer manufacturer has locked the firmware (probably) and I cannot edit it. So I have to burn a new one (I guess? Correct me if I'm wrong)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Printer name: Dimension Dual Delta&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Manufacturer: J Group Robotics&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Website: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.jgrouprobotics.com/dimension-dual-delta&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.jgrouprobotics.com/dimension-dual-delta&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have the slicer (Simplify3D) configured with the FFF profile as my printer was working completely fine up until a few weeks ago. I just want to know that if I change the firmware, would I have to change/update the profile as well? If yes, how do I do that?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a screenshot of Repetier host. The &quot;JGR&quot; continues indefinitely:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ifZWx.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ifZWx.png&quot; alt=&quot;Screenshot of log&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is the actual log text&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;22:56:00.216 : OpenGL version:4.2.0&#xA;22:56:00.218 : OpenGL renderer:GeForce GT 540M/PCIe/SSE2&#xA;22:56:00.218 : Using fast VBOs for rendering is possible&#xA;22:56:06.634 : Printer reset detected - initalizing&#xA;22:56:06.661 : start&#xA;22:56:06.662 : Info:External Reset&#xA;22:56:06.662 : Info:Autoleveling enabled&#xA;22:56:06.662 : Transformation matrix: 0.999994 0.000010 0.003587 0.000000 0.999996 -0.002727 -0.003587 0.002727 0.999990&#xA;22:56:06.865 : N1 M110*34&#xA;22:56:06.865 : N2 M115*36&#xA;22:56:06.865 : N3 M105*36&#xA;22:56:06.865 : N4 M114*35&#xA;22:56:06.865 : N5 M111 S6*98&#xA;22:56:06.869 : N6 T0*60&#xA;22:56:06.870 : N7 M20*22&#xA;22:56:06.871 : N8 M80*19&#xA;22:56:06.872 : N9 M105*46&#xA;22:56:08.706 : Free RAM:1002&#xA;22:56:08.706 : Autoretract:0&#xA;22:56:08.706 : X:0.00 Y:0.00 Z:0.000 E:0.0000&#xA;22:56:08.713 : N10 M220 S100*80&#xA;22:56:08.713 : N11 M221 S100*80&#xA;22:56:08.714 : N12 M111 S6*84&#xA;22:56:08.714 : FIRMWARE_NAME:Repetier_0.92.6 FIRMWARE_URL:https://github.com/repetier/Repetier-Firmware/ PROTOCOL_VERSION:1.0 MACHINE_TYPE:Delta EXTRUDER_COUNT:2 REPETIER_PROTOCOL:3&#xA;22:56:08.714 : Printed filament:32.75m Printing time:0 days 6 hours 0 min&#xA;22:56:08.714 : PrinterMode:FFF&#xA;22:56:08.714 : N13 T0*8&#xA;22:56:08.745 : X:0.00 Y:0.00 Z:0.000 E:0.0000&#xA;22:56:08.745 : Begin file list&#xA;22:56:08.746 : End file list&#xA;22:56:09.726 : JGR&#xA;22:56:09.960 : N14 M105*18&#xA;22:56:10.972 : JGR&#xA;22:56:11.979 : JGR&#xA;22:56:12.969 : JGR&#xA;22:56:13.016 : N15 M105*19&#xA;22:56:14.028 : JGR&#xA;22:56:15.035 : JGR&#xA;22:56:16.025 : JGR&#xA;22:56:16.072 : N16 M105*16&#xA;22:56:17.085 : JGR&#xA;22:56:18.091 : JGR&#xA;22:56:19.081 : JGR&#xA;22:56:19.134 : N17 M105*17&#xA;22:56:20.157 : JGR&#xA;22:56:21.163 : JGR&#xA;22:56:22.154 : JGR&#xA;22:56:22.189 : N18 M105*30&#xA;22:56:23.202 : JGR&#xA;22:56:24.208 : JGR&#xA;22:56:25.199 : JGR&#xA;22:56:25.245 : N19 M105*31&#xA;22:56:26.253 : JGR&#xA;22:56:27.261 : JGR&#xA;22:56:28.267 : JGR&#xA;22:56:28.307 : N20 M105*21&#xA;22:56:29.319 : JGR&#xA;22:56:30.326 : JGR&#xA;22:56:31.316 : JGR&#xA;22:56:31.363 : N21 M105*20&#xA;22:56:32.376 : JGR&#xA;22:56:33.382 : JGR&#xA;22:56:34.372 : JGR&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit&lt;/strong&gt;: Since it is advisable to get a new controller board and keep the current one as it is, I'm attaching a picture of what my printer is controlled by.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Y8k3r.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Y8k3r.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The black box on the green board reads &lt;strong&gt;HRD 12008&lt;/strong&gt;. Google says its a DC-DC SMPS module but mine has some extra connectors than what I could find online.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The black board is a &lt;strong&gt;MKS Base v1.3&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other box is a solid state relay.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is more intimidating than I thought it would be. How do I proceed now? If I get a brand new controller board to play with, which should it be? Also, I can't seem to locate any RAMPS shield.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7285" LastEditorUserId="7285" LastEditDate="2017-06-03T15:16:42.240" LastActivityDate="2017-06-03T23:58:20.300" Title="Help with Repetier firmware (probably locked and licensed)" Tags="|fdm|repetier|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4162" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4158" CreationDate="2017-05-30T12:41:20.620" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It could be a hardware fault. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First check, and compare, the control board connections to the motors of the three axes. You don't state it in your question but, presumably, the X and Y axes move correctly? If so, then compare the connections for the Z-axis motors with the connections for the motors of the axes that work as expected.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If they are correct then the problem is likely to be with the firmware.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Have you...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;homed the Z-axis yet?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;installed the endstops?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From &lt;a href=&quot;https://makerware.thingiverse.com/groups/prusa-i3/topic:7370&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;X Y Z axis only move one direction?&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Using Marlin? Before you do a &lt;code&gt;G28&lt;/code&gt; homing the axes will only move&#xA;  towards the endstops. But also check your endstops with &lt;code&gt;M119&lt;/code&gt; to make&#xA;  sure they are triggered at the right time. On older Marlin, you may&#xA;  need to set &lt;code&gt;DISABLE_MAX_ENDSTOPS&lt;/code&gt; (on a machine that has no max&#xA;  endstops). Newer Marlin uses &lt;code&gt;USE_XMIN_PLUG&lt;/code&gt;, etc., to specifically&#xA;  set which endstops are connected. If the switches show the opposite&#xA;  state (off when triggered) then set the&#xA;  &lt;code&gt;[XYZ]_(MIN|MAX)_ENDSTOP_INVERTING&lt;/code&gt; flags, as needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Likewise, from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.instructables.com/id/Building-a-Prusa-i3-3D-Printer/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Building a Prusa I3 3D Printer&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;You will probably also find the motor will turn only in one direction. This is normal for now as we don't have end-stops installed and haven't homed the axis - so the software doesn't know how far it can go in one direction or the other.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As Mark states in his &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/4158/prusa-i3-z-axis-only-goes-down-even-on-up-command#comment5758_4162&quot;&gt;comment&lt;/a&gt;, the P802M uses a Melzi board. From &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/repetier/Repetier-Firmware/tree/master/boards/Zonestar%20P802M&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Github: Repetier-Firmware/boards/Zonestar P802M/&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;There are some printers sold under different names like 'Zonestar&#xA;  P802M', 'Prusa i3 P802M DIY kit', 'Anet A8-B', etc, which have LCD&#xA;  20x4 with 5 keys controller connected to Melzi V2.0 board via 10 wires&#xA;  cable. Keys are connected to a single analog input using resistive&#xA;  divider.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4762" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2017-05-31T01:34:30.007" LastActivityDate="2017-05-31T01:34:30.007" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4163" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4161" CreationDate="2017-05-30T14:30:00.223" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The firmware is not really locked by the OEM&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;, you just need to upload (or, as you say &lt;em&gt;burn&lt;/em&gt;) a new version. This is not unusual&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Repetier is just like any other firmware that uses Arduino boards. While it may seem intimidating at first, it really is quite easy to regularly upload new firmware to the Arduino Mega 2560 board&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt;. If you are not familiar with Arduino programming at all, then there are a good number of &lt;em&gt;Repetier oriented&lt;/em&gt; guides out there, for example, from Repetier's own web site, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.repetier.com/documentation/repetier-firmware/rf-installation/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Repetier-Firmware Documentation&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If are you familiar with Arduino programming, then it really is the same as uploading the &lt;code&gt;Blink&lt;/code&gt; sketches, but the base code is just bigger, that is all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is too much to detail in a simple answer here and, as I stated above, there are a lot of online guides. However, &lt;em&gt;en bref&lt;/em&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Download and install the Arduino IDE to your Mac/Wintel/Linux PC;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Download the &lt;em&gt;latest&lt;/em&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.repetier.com/downloads/#f&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Repetier firmware&lt;/a&gt; to your Mac/Wintel/Linux PC&lt;sup&gt;4&lt;/sup&gt;;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Connect the Arduino Mega 2560 to your PC using a USB cable;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Change the settings, i.e. Boards and Port settings, in the Arduino IDE, so that your PC can &amp;quot;see&amp;quot; the Arduino Mega 2560;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Open the Reptier firmware, that you have just downloaded, in the Arduino IDE;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Configure the Repetier firmware source code, i.e. make some edits in the &lt;code&gt;Configuration.h&lt;/code&gt; file&lt;sup&gt;5&lt;/sup&gt;, with the tweaks that you require (which you mention in your question)&lt;sup&gt;6&lt;/sup&gt;;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Compile the firmware using the Arduino IDE. and (finally);&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Upload the firmware to the Arduino Mega 2560.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That is it. Once you have done it a few times, it will become second nature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Watch a few online youtube videos, as well, before you start, so that you have a better idea of what to do. For example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x4v7QvT36gc&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Repetier 0 92 8 Firmware Configration&lt;/a&gt;. or;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Nexaf7XOoPg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Kossel Mini 3D Printer Repetier Firmware and Calibration&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;As an aside, for gaining a basic understanding of the configuration file of &lt;em&gt;Marlin&lt;/em&gt;, &lt;strong&gt;not&lt;/strong&gt; Repetier, I found this video &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QuEhQU8vGZk&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;#18: Calibration&lt;/a&gt; &lt;em&gt;extremely&lt;/em&gt; useful. If you feel like changing the firmware completely, this may come in handy.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With respect to the Slicer's profile settings... I am not sure about that at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason that you have no RAMPS board is that, on your MKS board, the RAMPS and the Arduino are merged into one. Any new controller would work, as they all run the same firmware. There are many to choose from. As you are just experimenting (and reverse engineering) at this stage, I personally would buy a cheap Chinese Arduino Mega 2560 (€6) and RAMPS (€4) board on eBay, for a total of only €10 (if you buy them separately - don't get a combination &amp;quot;deal&amp;quot; as they are generally more expensive - although compare the prices first, you may find a bargain), to test your settings. Once you are happy with those settings, &lt;em&gt;then&lt;/em&gt; you can spend more money on a better board, should you feel that you need it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Footnotes&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; If you have to get around the licensing, then it sounds like you could/should recompile the firmware, or use some other firmware, i.e. Marlin. However, wait to see what other people suggest.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; There really isn't much risk in uploading new firmware. The only risk, which I guess &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/4161/help-with-repetier-firmware-probably-locked-and-licensed/4163?noredirect=1#comment5759_4163&quot;&gt;Mark is referring to&lt;/a&gt;, is that you may/will not have the correct firmware settings for your make of printer, and therefore the printer may not work correctly, until you get the firmware settings correct. So, in that respect, it is a good idea to buy a secondary Arduino Mega and RAMPS1.4 board to play with, for just $10 (Chinese clones work just fine). But, as you say that your board already has bad settings, and you do not wish to pay for more licensing, then you haven't much to lose by uploading new firmware to it, except the warranty. So, if I were in your position, and I did not want to pay the licensing, I would set aside the supplied controller (for possible future use/reference), and use a Arduino Mega 2560/RAMPS 1.4 combination to control the printer. That said, if your printer is still under warranty, can't you ask the manufacturer to supply you a new controller with the correct settings?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt; There is no way of extracting the code from an Arduino and then modifying it. You need the &lt;em&gt;original source code files&lt;/em&gt;. See &lt;a href=&quot;https://arduino.stackexchange.com/questions/179/is-there-any-way-to-download-a-sketch-from-an-arduino&quot;&gt;Is there any way to download a sketch from an Arduino?&lt;/a&gt; OK, you can obtain the machine code, but unless you are an expert, or guru, modifying it is impossible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;4&lt;/sup&gt; The installation order, of the Arduino IDE and Repetier, will not matter. You probably need to rebuild the firmware, I would guess, but I am not 100% sure. It might be a good idea to contact the vendor to see what they recommend, before overwriting their code (assuming that the control board came pre-programmed)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;5&lt;/sup&gt; I found this video &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QuEhQU8vGZk&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;#18: Calibration&lt;/a&gt; extremely useful, for configuring Marlin, and understanding the firmware settings in the &lt;code&gt;Configuration.h&lt;/code&gt; file.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;6&lt;/sup&gt; You may find this link useful for your &amp;quot;tweaks&amp;quot;: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.repetier.com/firmware/v092/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Repetier-Firmware configuration tool for version 0.92.9 version&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4762" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:29:41.667" LastActivityDate="2017-06-03T23:58:20.300" CommentCount="15" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4164" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4170" CreationDate="2017-05-30T21:21:01.550" Score="1" ViewCount="1408" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can't seem to understand the margins that Cura uses or how to fix them for my machine. Look at this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5oD0d.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5oD0d.png&quot; alt=&quot;Screenshot of Cura, depicting large grey area&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can't seem to tweak the stuff under machine settings to anything that does this better:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FEd5k.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FEd5k.png&quot; alt=&quot;Screenshot of settings&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maybe a bit of dup of &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/645/cura-not-allowing-full-print-area-to-used&quot;&gt;Cura not allowing full print area to used&lt;/a&gt;, but I think my case is a lot worse and can't be explained by skirts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7312" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2017-05-31T13:48:18.530" LastActivityDate="2017-05-31T21:31:51.500" Title="Cura grey large grey area, almost nothing fits…" Tags="|prusa-i3|ultimaker-cura|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4165" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-05-30T22:07:55.017" Score="2" ViewCount="348" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a wooden first generation Replicator with dual extruders and I'm trying to get an X, Y, Z position from the printer to the computer in real time. Is that even possible? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The firmware used by the replicator is version 5.5 I believe, and I've been doing tests with ReplicatorG but I'm not married to that software.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please let me know if you need any extra info before being able to comment on this... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7313" LastEditorUserId="7313" LastEditDate="2017-06-02T16:21:33.017" LastActivityDate="2017-06-07T19:42:46.593" Title="Monitoring X, Y, Z position of extruder in real time" Tags="|replicator-dual|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4166" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-05-31T03:43:50.787" Score="1" ViewCount="658" Body="&lt;p&gt;Around 30% into a large print I had to cancel as the layers of the print were not full layers and looked very stringy. Here's a couple pictures of what it looked like.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/krwhC.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/krwhC.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/L0Nl7.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/L0Nl7.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a feeling that it may be because of my retraction settings either being too high or too fast as this section it was printing had to use a lot of retraction. My retraction settings are 40mm/s for 4.5mm. I was printing at a pretty slow speed (around 55mm/s), and I'm sure confused on why it's not extruding properly at certain times. If anyone has any idea on what is happening and how to fix it it will be gladly appreciated!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have an Anycubic Delta linear printer with a Bowden extruder, I use white 1.75 mm PLA at 200C, .4mm nozzle&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6662" LastEditorUserId="6662" LastEditDate="2017-05-31T15:09:18.740" LastActivityDate="2019-12-08T18:16:47.410" Title="How to fix bad extrusion on my printer" Tags="|print-quality|extrusion|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4168" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4164" CreationDate="2017-05-31T13:06:41.190" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;That looks like you've got the &quot;brim&quot; set to a very wide value.  I know you said it's not explained by skirts --which, as Greenonline pointed out, is not the same as a brim--, but you didn't post that setting. At the same time, make sure you don't have a 'raft' set up.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One other possibility is that your source file actually contains a very large first layer.  Try looking at the STL file in Meshlab or Meshmixer to see what's actually there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2191" LastEditorUserId="2191" LastEditDate="2017-05-31T14:01:57.607" LastActivityDate="2017-05-31T14:01:57.607" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4170" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4164" CreationDate="2017-05-31T16:25:51.527" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had mistakenly left the setting &quot;one at a time&quot; in print sequence. This meaning the printhead needs a lot of room since it will go back and forth in z.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cura allocates this extra space even if there's only one object.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7312" LastEditorUserId="7312" LastEditDate="2017-05-31T21:31:51.500" LastActivityDate="2017-05-31T21:31:51.500" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4171" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4158" CreationDate="2017-05-31T18:18:39.563" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Thank you guys, it took me a while but it was a faulty cable, &#xA;One stepper motor worked but the other did not. But, apparently, both have to work for even one to turn. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The cable had one wire isolation still in place, so there was no connection from the board to the stepper. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also had another cable with the wires connected in the wrong order, as well.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bottom line - it is working. And printing well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now it seems like I have problem with the z-sensor (stopped working after a few hours of printing). But I'll figure it out tomorrow. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you for your help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7296" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2017-06-01T19:38:51.043" LastActivityDate="2017-06-01T19:38:51.043" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4172" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4165" CreationDate="2017-05-31T18:42:06.983" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Depending on your methods, you can easily (evidently) get (or compute) &quot;where the printhead is &lt;strong&gt;commanded&lt;/strong&gt; to be&quot; in more-or-less real time, as evidenced by the &quot;progress display&quot; in Repetier Host software (based off the G-Code it's sending &lt;strong&gt;to&lt;/strong&gt; the printer) - though I have found it advisable to stick with the temperature display while printing as I've had the host bog down on processing the display at least once, which then made the print go slow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for &quot;is it even possible&quot; - sure, how much would you like to spend? Add encoders to each axis that are read by the computer, or by something (probably not your printer processor for &quot;least impact on the printing&quot; and &quot;most real-time&quot;) that reads them and talks to the computer. The more precise you need, the more expensive it gets. Of course that also starts to probe 'what you mean by &quot;real time&quot; ?' as there are applications where the time spent reading the encoder and sending/receiving the data would be considered &quot;not real-time&quot; by the time the computer had the data, but for the average person with a printer built partly from wood, it's likely &quot;real-time enough.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6853" LastActivityDate="2017-05-31T18:42:06.983" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4173" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4176" CreationDate="2017-05-31T18:49:09.567" Score="3" ViewCount="449" Body="&lt;h3&gt;TL;DR&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I need a complete list of fasteners (bolts, nuts and washers) for the &lt;em&gt;Sintron Kossel&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has anyone bought this kit, and knows the answer, or knows where this is documented?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A complete list would be great, but in particular, I need the dimensions (M2.5/3/4/5? and length) and quantity of the bolts (and nuts) which:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;fasten the PCB mounted mechanical switches to the PLA rectangular end stop spacers/holders, and;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;fasten the PCB mounted mechanical switches and the PLA rectangular end stop spacers/holders to the extruded 2020 aluminium.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Searched the web, but to no avail;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Read the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Sintron-3D-Printer-Kossel-Mini-Full-Set-w-Auto-level-for-RepRap-Rostock-Delta-/181845082062&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;product page&lt;/a&gt;, which states only &amp;quot;screws and nuts provided&amp;quot;;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Contacted &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ebay.co.uk/usr/sintron_tech_usa&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Sintron&lt;/a&gt;, but not had an answer;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Obtained the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.dropbox.com/s/iifhhmistuwfja1/Kossel%20mini%20instrution%20by%20sintron%20technology_v2.pdf?dl=0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Sintron build manual&lt;/a&gt; but there is no list contained therein, nor contains details about the fasteners relating to the endstops, and;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Obtained the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.robotdigg.com/upload/pdf/2a823cc8a8dcff9da99cce92710cc745.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Blomker manual&lt;/a&gt;, from which the Sintron manual is copied, but that also has no list (as well as not being relevant with respect to the endstops).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Note that I am only interested in the fasteners &lt;em&gt;specifically for the Sintron Kossel&lt;/em&gt; and not the Kossel in general.&lt;/strong&gt; The Sintron uses the PCB mounted mechanical switches (with four holes), and not the simple barebones mechanical switches (with two holes), and uses 2020 aluminium&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;, not 1515 OpenBeam:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Lr1BU.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Lr1BU.png&quot; alt=&quot;Endstops and PCB mounted mechanical switches for the Sintron Kossel&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why? Because I purchased only the 3D printed parts from Sintron, and I am sourcing the rest of the parts cheaply, either locally or from Chinese suppliers on eBay.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; In my particular case, there is an additional complication. The profile of the non-standard/non-&amp;quot;European&amp;quot; 2020 extrusion that I am using, does &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; take T-Nuts, only M5 hexagonal nuts (it is unbelievably difficult to find the standard 2020 extrusion in Bangkok). Combine that with the fact that the Sintron kit uses only M3 nuts and &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; M5 (I only discovered this &lt;em&gt;after&lt;/em&gt; purchasing the printed parts kit (see the email from Sintron, in my answer below) - not through lack of research, but because there &lt;em&gt;is&lt;/em&gt; no available list of fasteners), then I have the problem of finding a nut to use (see &lt;a href=&quot;https://engineering.stackexchange.com/questions/15628/fat-hexagonal-m3-nuts-with-outer-diameter-greater-than-6-mm&quot;&gt;Fat hexagonal M3 nuts, with outer diameter greater than 6 mm&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a photo&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UgSHu.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UgSHu.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Four pieces of 2020 Aluminium extrusion&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4762" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:29:41.667" LastActivityDate="2017-06-24T16:27:37.073" Title="Complete list of fasteners for the Sintron Kossel" Tags="|printer-building|diy-3d-printer|kossel|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4174" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4173" CreationDate="2017-05-31T20:37:44.270" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found two lists for the Kossel mini (the documents you referenced are for a mini, so that is what I am assuming you got).  One as a &lt;a href=&quot;https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1s_ekMab3iavE6ohXIHZImjlCRGyXr9UWbBqC8XOGF_M/pub?output=html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Google Doc&lt;/a&gt; and one as an &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.tridprinting.com/BOM/Kossel-Mini/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;order sheet&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both seem to list all the fasteners.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a Sintron mini &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/SINTRON-Kossel-Mini-Prime-Line-Roller-Carriage-Wheel-696ZZ-Bearing-linear-rail-MGN12/114769_32427917085.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;carriage assembly&lt;/a&gt; and it lists the hardware included&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found an ebay listing for the Sintron 2020 Rails.  The recommended screws are M3x20mm and here is the infor on the required t-nuts.&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Hjohn.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Hjohn.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Happy building.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6417" LastEditorUserId="6417" LastEditDate="2017-06-01T06:25:11.760" LastActivityDate="2017-06-01T06:25:11.760" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4176" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4173" CreationDate="2017-06-01T01:21:11.777" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;After examining the guide (&lt;a href=&quot;https://gr33nonline.files.wordpress.com/2017/05/kossel-mini-instrution-by-sintron-technology_v2.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Kossel mini instrution by sintron technology_v2&lt;/a&gt;) and the printed parts kit, I came up with an 99.9% complete parts list. The lists relating to the effector and autoprobe mount maybe slightly incorrect:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;##Parts List&#xA;&#xA;###Listed by Printer part/section:&#xA;&#xA;####Fasteners&#xA;&#xA;#####BOTTOM VERTEX (QUANTITY = 3)&#xA;&#xA;For each:&#xA;10 x M3 x 8 mm&#xA;10 x M3 nut (T-nut)&#xA;&#xA;#####TOP VERTEX (QUANTITY = 3)&#xA;&#xA;For each:&#xA;5 x M3 x 8 mm&#xA;5 x M3 nut (T-nut)&#xA;&#xA;1 x M3 x 35 mm&#xA;1 x M3 nut&#xA;1 x M3 washer&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;#####IDLERS (QUANTITY = 3)&#xA;&#xA;For each:&#xA;1x M3 x 25 mm&#xA;4x M3 Washers&#xA;1 x M3 Nut&#xA;2x F623ZZ&#xA;&#xA;#####MOTORS (QUANTITY = 3)&#xA;&#xA;For each:&#xA;2 x grub&#xA;4 x M3 x 8 mm&#xA;1 x 16T/20T GT2 pulley&#xA;&#xA;#####EFFECTOR&#xA;&#xA;6 x M3 nyloc nuts&#xA;6 x M3 x 25 mm&#xA;&#xA;4 (5?) x M3 x 16 mm &amp;lt;&amp;lt;==, or&#xA;2 (3?) x M3 x 16 mm &amp;lt;&amp;lt;==&#xA;2 x M3 x 20 mm &amp;lt;&amp;lt;== For the auto probe, if mounting the autoprobe directly on to a collar, above the hotend, and not on to the flange on the Sintron PLA collar&#xA;&#xA;4 (5?) x M3 nuts &amp;lt;&amp;lt;==&#xA;&#xA;2 x M3 x 8 mm &amp;lt;&amp;lt;== fan mounted to Sintron PLA collar&#xA;2 x M3 nuts &amp;lt;&amp;lt;==&#xA;&#xA;1 x PC4-M6&#xA;&#xA;Note: Some additional bolts are required for the mounting of the hotend. It is unclear what these are. See link.&#xA;&#xA;#####VERTICAL CARRIAGES (QUANTITY = 3)&#xA;&#xA;For each:&#xA;2 x M3 x 20 mm&#xA;&#xA;#####ROLLER CARRIAGES (QUANTITY = 3)&#xA;&#xA;For each:&#xA;2 x M3 x 10 mm&#xA;1 x M3 x 25 mm&#xA;3 x M3 nuts&#xA;3 x M6 x 25 mm&#xA;3 x M6 nut    &#xA;2 x M6 washer (optional)&#xA;&#xA;#####ENDSTOPS (QUANTITY = 3)&#xA;&#xA;For each:&#xA;1 x M3 x 8 mm &amp;lt;&amp;lt;==&#xA;1 x M3 nut (T-nut)&#xA;3 x M3 x 8 mm &amp;lt;&amp;lt;==&#xA;3 x M3 nut&#xA;&#xA;#####SPOOL&#xA;&#xA;6 x 625-2RS Bearing (or 625zz)&#xA;5 x M5 x 20 mm&#xA;1 x M5 x 25 mm&#xA;6 x M5 nut&#xA;6 x M5 washer&#xA;(or 7 x M5 washer – there is a discrepancy between the kit (7) and the manual (6))&#xA;3 x M3 x 8 mm ?&#xA;3 x M3 nut (T-nut)&#xA;&#xA;#####EXTRUDER&#xA;&#xA;1 x M3 x 40 mm&#xA;1 x M3 x 8 mm&#xA;1 x M3 x ?? mm &amp;lt;&amp;lt;==&#xA;2 x M3 nut (T-nut)&#xA;&#xA;1 x PC4-01&#xA;&#xA;#####AUTOPROBE&#xA;&#xA;Note: This is optional&#xA;&#xA;2 x M2.5 x 12 mm&#xA;1 x M2.5 x 12 mm&#xA;2 x M3 x 8 mm &amp;lt;&amp;lt;==  If mounting the autoprobe on to the flange of the Sintron PLA collar (if mounting directly on to a collar, above the hotend, then these are not required, and 2 x M3 x 20 mm replace 2 x M3 x 16 mm on the effector)&#xA;2 x M3 nuts &amp;lt;&amp;lt;==  If mounting the autoprobe on to the flange of the Sintron PLA collar (if mounting directly on to a collar, above the hotend, then these are not required)&#xA;&#xA;Safety Pin 2.5 mm&#xA;Spring 23.5mm&#xA;&#xA;Terminal Block&#xA;1.5mm Allen key&#xA;&#xA;Note: Some additional bolts are required for the mounting of the autoprobe, as well as the hotend. It is unclear what these are.&#xA;&#xA;#####GLASS BED&#xA;&#xA;3 x M3 x 8 mm ?&#xA;1 x M3 x 20 mm&#xA;4 x M3 nut (T-nut)&#xA;&#xA;#####RAMPS&#xA;&#xA;Note: This is optional, as mounting on the top will interfere with the spool&#xA;&#xA;2 x M3 x 35 mm&#xA;2 x M3 nuts&#xA;2 x M3 nuts (T-nut)&#xA;&#xA;###Total Parts:&#xA;&#xA;####Fasteners&#xA;&#xA;#####BOLTS&#xA;&#xA;Size, Length, Quantity&#xA;M3, 25, (1×3)+(6)+(1×3) = 3+6+3 = 12&#xA;M3, 8, (10×3)+(5×3)+(4×3)+(4x3)+(3)+(1)+(2)+(3) = 30+15+12+12+3+1+2+3 = 78&#xA;M3, 16, 5&#xA;M3, 20, (2×3)+(1)+(2) = 6+1+2 = 9&#xA;M3, 10, (2×3) = 6&#xA;M3, 35, 3&#xA;M3, 40, 1&#xA;M6, 25, (3×3) = 9&#xA;M5, 20, 5&#xA;M5, 25, 1&#xA;M2.5, 12, 3&#xA;&#xA;#####GRUB SCREWS&#xA;&#xA;Size, Quantity&#xA;?, (2×3) = 6&#xA;&#xA;#####NUTS&#xA;&#xA;Size, Quantity&#xA;M5, 6&#xA;M6, (3×3) = 9&#xA;—&#xA;EITHER&#xA;&#xA;M3, (10×3)+(5×3)+(1x3)+(1×3)+(5+2)+(3×3)+(1×3)+(3×3)+(3)+(2)+(2)+(4) = 30+15+3+7+9+3+9+3+2+2+4 = 90&#xA;&#xA;OR&#xA;&#xA;M3, (1×3) + (1×3) + (5+2) + (3×3) + (3×3) + (2) = 3+7+9+9+2 = 33&#xA;and&#xA;M3 T-slot nut, (10×3) + (5×3) + (1×3) + (3) + (2) + (4) = 30+15+3+3+2+4 = 57&#xA;—&#xA;&#xA;#####NYLOC NUTS&#xA;&#xA;Size, Quantity&#xA;M3, 6&#xA;&#xA;#####WASHERS&#xA;&#xA;Size, Quantity&#xA;M3, (1x3)+(4×3) = 15&#xA;M6, (2×3) = 6&#xA;M5, 6 (or 7)&#xA;&#xA;####Bearings&#xA;&#xA;Size, Quantity&#xA;F623zz, 6&#xA;625-2RS, 6&#xA;OR&#xA;625zz, 6&#xA;&#xA;####Printed Parts&#xA;&#xA;TBD&#xA;&#xA;####Structural&#xA;&#xA;3 x 2020 x  750/600 mm&#xA;9 x 2020 x 360/240 mm&#xA;&#xA;####Electronics&#xA;&#xA;1 x Arduino Mega 2560&#xA;1 x RAMPS 1.4&#xA;5 x Stepper drivers&#xA;3 x PCB mounted mechanical switch&#xA;3 x Stepper motors&#xA;1 x Extruder stepper&#xA;&#xA;####Belts&#xA;&#xA;3 x 16T/20T GT2 Pulley&#xA;GT2 belt (5 meters)&#xA;&#xA;####Other Parts&#xA;&#xA;Safety Pin 2.5 mm&#xA;Spring 23.5mm&#xA;Terminal Block&#xA;1.5mm Allen key&#xA;9 x Delrin wheels&#xA;9 x 696zz bearings&#xA;&#xA;1 x PC4-M6&#xA;1 x PC4-01&#xA;&#xA;###Uncertainties&#xA;&#xA;The fasteners required for the following parts is, as yet, unclear&#xA;&#xA;Effector/Hotend mount&#xA;Autoprobe mount&#xA;Additional Extruder holder screwpoint&#xA;&#xA;###Assumptions&#xA;&#xA;Hotbed frame mounts (assumed to be M3 x 8 mm)&#xA;Spool frame mounts (assumed to be M3 x 8 mm)&#xA;Endstops (four M3 x 8 mm are used, not just one)&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See also &lt;a href=&quot;https://gr33nonline.wordpress.com/2017/06/01/kossel-sintron-parts-list/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Kossel - Sintron parts list&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a &lt;em&gt;partial&lt;/em&gt; answer from the suppliers:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Hi &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Good Day !&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;thanks for your contact.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;we use M3 bolts + T-nuts .&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;i suppose the problem is , you don't have T-nuts , right ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;T-nuts is used for 2020 extrusion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;with warm regards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;james&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I replied for a clarification of the length required:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Many thanks for the reply.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I have two types of 2020 extrusion, with differing profiles: one that&#xA;  takes T-Nuts, and; one that takes regular hexagonal M5 nuts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;For the T-nut extrusion I have both M3 and M5 T-nuts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;However, the second type of 2020 extrusion takes regular M5 nuts.&#xA;  Regular M3 nuts will not stay in place, unless I can find some M3 nuts&#xA;  with a larger outer diameter, greater than 7 mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;With respect to the M3 bolts, what are the lengths required? Are two&#xA;  lengths used? One length to secure the endstop switch and holder to&#xA;  the 2020 extrusion, and then another length to secure the remaining&#xA;  three holes? Looking at the diagram in your build guide, it seems as&#xA;  if only one bolt is used to secure the endstop switch and holder to&#xA;  the frame, is that correct? Are any other bolts used to secure the PCB&#xA;  mounted switch the the endstop holders.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I thank you in advance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Best regards&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I followed this up with a second email&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Hi again James,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Following on from my previous reply.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Firstly, I have found that flanged M3 nuts will work perfectly, in the&#xA;  extrusion that will not accept T-Nuts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Secondly, what I really am looking for is a list of the lengths (and&#xA;  dimensions) of the bolts used throughout the Sintron build. In&#xA;  particular the endstop bolts. Rather than having to iteratively deduce&#xA;  each bolt, a list of the bolts used would be very handy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I thank you again in advance for your kind consideration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Best regards,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I received a second reply from Sintron&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Hello Friend.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;for endstop . it's M3*8mm . &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;i am collecting the list of them for you soon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;james&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4762" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2017-06-24T16:27:37.073" LastActivityDate="2017-06-24T16:27:37.073" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4177" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-06-01T17:50:49.067" Score="2" ViewCount="15194" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Tevo Tarantula with a MKS Base 1.5 board and dual extruders.  I am running Marlin RC8 Tevo Community build for the dual extruder, large bed and SN04 sensor.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All temperature sensors work and give accurate reading but &lt;code&gt;E1&lt;/code&gt; when activated runs at 100% until the overtemps kicks in and shuts down the system.  Like I said, it reads proper temperatures through the thermistor it just won’t stop at the set temperature.  I checked the MOSFET and there is no obvious scorching or bad solder joints on the MKS board.  This leads me to believe it is a mix-up in firmware but, being a bit of a newbie on this, I am still getting familiar with G-code and Marlin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have confirmed the correct board is being referenced in firmware from &lt;code&gt;boards.h&lt;/code&gt; but looking at &lt;code&gt;configuration.h&lt;/code&gt; I just get confused.  What I am thinking is somehow/somewhere &lt;code&gt;E1&lt;/code&gt; might be referenced as a fan that is just off or on.  Anybody have ideas?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7332" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2017-06-02T01:23:22.160" LastActivityDate="2017-07-20T16:51:34.363" Title="Dual extruder setup in Marlin" Tags="|dual-nozzle|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4178" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4173" CreationDate="2017-06-01T19:43:34.527" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;For the M3 t-nuts, could you use this &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1573410&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;printed solution&lt;/a&gt;.&#xA;You are just attaching a PCB; so, it you wouldn't need that much strength.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another excuse to use your 3D printer. ;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6417" LastEditorUserId="6417" LastEditDate="2017-06-05T19:25:07.590" LastActivityDate="2017-06-05T19:25:07.590" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4179" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4177" CreationDate="2017-06-02T20:01:55.997" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am not sure what the hardware config is for the &lt;strong&gt;Tevo Tarantula&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Make sure your &lt;code&gt;configuration.h&lt;/code&gt; file is setup for your hardware.&#xA;The extruder defines are describe in &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/JimBrown/MarlinTarantula/blob/bugfix-1.1.x/Marlin/Conditionals_LCD.h&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Conditional_LCD.h&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It looks like the &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/JimBrown/MarlinTarantula/blob/bugfix-1.1.x/Marlin/Configuration.h&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;configuration.h file&lt;/a&gt; on GitHub is configured for a single extruder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, if you have 2 hotends; but, &quot;HOTENDS=2&quot; is not set then the I/O will not be configured for the 2nd hotend.  I just looked at the code and if &lt;code&gt;HOTENDS == 1&lt;/code&gt; then the &lt;code&gt;MOSFET_D_PIN&lt;/code&gt; will be used to control FAN1 (which sounds very similar to what you are describing that you are seeing).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;  #if HOTENDS == 1&#xA;    #define FAN1_PIN     MOSFET_D_PIN&#xA;  #else&#xA;    #define HEATER_1_PIN MOSFET_D_PIN&#xA;  #endif&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6417" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2017-06-06T03:12:49.277" LastActivityDate="2017-06-06T03:12:49.277" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4180" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-06-03T00:19:41.740" Score="5" ViewCount="989" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've always had trouble getting prints to stick directly on my bed, but had great reliability when use rafts. This didn't present a problem when I was using PLA, but I recently got a roll of PETG and it is very hard to remove rafts, so I am once again trying to figure out whats wrong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am printing the same file (currently a simple square for testing) with the same settings, except I am turning rafts on/off. When rafts are on, my print sticks perfectly. When rafts are off, my print doesn't stick at all - not even the skirt (which sticks fine on the raft print). With rafts on, I can watch my printer lay down a nice line for the skirt / first layer. With rafts off, I watched plastic ooze out of the nozzle and ride along with the print head, not sticking to the plate at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a stock Monoprice Maker Select v2 with the PEI surface it shipped with. I haven't tried any bed additions/changes to get better adhesion, since I know rafts stick fine with what I have. I figure there must be some settings I can change to make my first layer stick too. I am using Simplify3D &amp;amp; have tried a few basic tweaks, but I am largely stabbing in the dark.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are the specific characteristics of a first layer raft, in comparison to a first layer of my print, that might make it stick better?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7350" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-12-10T06:27:08.477" LastActivityDate="2019-12-10T06:27:08.477" Title="What tweaks do slicers use to get rafts to stick?" Tags="|adhesion|simplify3d|monoprice-maker-select|rafts|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4182" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4183" CreationDate="2017-06-03T04:59:14.227" Score="4" ViewCount="1920" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm very new to 3D printing, I purchased a Monoprice Maker Select Plus last week and I'm just getting started with printing my own models. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can create fairly simple models in Sketchup without a problem, export in &lt;code&gt;.obj&lt;/code&gt;, then using Slic3r, covert the STL into G-code. This method worked fairly well for some simple cubic bearing holders I was printing, however when I tried to slice a complex shape (a wheel), the slicer shows an incomplete version of the &lt;code&gt;.obj&lt;/code&gt; file, missing faces and transparent from some angles. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OlXqP.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OlXqP.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;the sketchup model&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is now what the wheel looked like on the slicer&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7j1Iv.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7j1Iv.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;preview mode&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is obviously something I'm doing wrong in Sketchup, maybe I have to put it through some filters in MeshLab? Or I'm not constructing the model properly?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7355" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2017-06-03T17:45:40.307" LastActivityDate="2017-06-03T17:45:40.307" Title="Slic3r not interpreting STL correctly" Tags="|3d-models|3d-design|software|slic3r|slicing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4183" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4182" CreationDate="2017-06-03T11:56:28.377" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sketchup is notorious for creating non-manifold models for 3D printing. The first recommendation would be to consider using a different resource for your models. I'm not a big fan of &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.tinkercad.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;TinkerCAD&lt;/a&gt;, but it is similar in operation to many features of Sketchup. I've used it on a couple occasions where it was the fastest simplest way to create a particular model.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are other programs that are more complex in the learning curve. &lt;a href=&quot;http://meshmixer.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Meshmixer&lt;/a&gt; is good for more organic shapes, although it will perform reasonably well for engineering-type models such as yours.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.blender.org/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Blender&lt;/a&gt; is a great piece of free software with an extremely steep learning curve, but again, better suited to organics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm quite a fan of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.openscad.org/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;OpenSCAD&lt;/a&gt; which is script/text based and quite well suited to creating engineering-type models, especially if you need parametric modeling. The model you have in your pictures would be an easy build, perhaps twenty minutes creation time, a few dozen lines of text. I see two cylinders, some boolean subtraction and some radial primitives. If the code is clean (easy to do), the result is a manifold object.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the even more challenging level, there are programs such as &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.solidworks.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;SolidWorks&lt;/a&gt; but the learning curve there is steep too. In the same ballpark would be &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.autodesk.com/products/fusion-360/overview&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Autodesk Fusion 360&lt;/a&gt;, for which a free hobbyist version exists.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, with all of the above, there are YouTube tutorials to assist your learning process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More to the point, one can use an &lt;a href=&quot;http://online%203d%20model%20repair%20service&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;online 3D model repair service&lt;/a&gt;. I've attempted to use a couple with mixed results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://service.netfabb.com/login.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Netfabb&lt;/a&gt; is a commonly recommended online repair service. I've not used that one, or if I have, the results were poor. A bad model (your example) will likely fail with most services.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've used &lt;a href=&quot;https://makeprintable.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;MakePrintable&lt;/a&gt; in the past as well. Again, a bad model will fail and Sketchup is the culprit here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can use Meshmixer in Analysis mode to find the errors and use Auto Repair All, but the results aren't going to be pretty!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastActivityDate="2017-06-03T11:56:28.377" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4184" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-06-03T18:39:48.547" Score="5" ViewCount="1717" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I'm finally building a new firmware (Repetier) since my current one can't be edited. It is a Delta printer and is explained in detail here: &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/4161/help-with-repetier-firmware-probably-locked-and-licensed&quot;&gt;Help with Repetier firmware (probably locked and licensed)&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are many variables that I couldn't find in the EEPROM. Can someone please explain those to me (listed below)? I've listed only the ones I feel are the most important for now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;General and Dimensions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;code&gt;KILL_METHOD&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;code&gt;STARTUP_GCODE&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;code&gt;DELTA_FLOOR_SAFETY_MARGIN_MM&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Max. horizontal radius (&lt;code&gt;DELTA_MAX_RADIUS&lt;/code&gt;): I have &quot;max printable&#xA;radius&quot; and &quot;delta radius&quot; A(0), B(0) &amp;amp; C(0) each.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Radius error column A/B/C (&lt;code&gt;DELTA_RADIUS_CORRECTION_A/B/C&lt;/code&gt;): Could&#xA;this be the delta radii A(0), B(0) &amp;amp; C(0)?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Z-correction (distortion correction)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Full correction until (FC) or &lt;code&gt;DISTORTION_START_DEGRADE&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Reduce correction to zero at (RZ) or &lt;code&gt;DISTORTION_END_HEIGHT&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Correction radius (&lt;code&gt;DISTORTION_CORRECTION_R&lt;/code&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Update every x computations (&lt;code&gt;DISTORTION_UPDATE_FREQUENCY&lt;/code&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have the following in EEPROM:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Z-probe height [mm]&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Max. z-probe - bed dist. [mm]&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Z-probe speed [mm/s]&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Z-probe x-y-speed [mm/s]&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Z-probe offset x [mm]&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Z-probe offset y [mm]&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Z-probe X1 [mm]&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Z-probe Y1 [mm]&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Z-probe X2 [mm]&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Z-probe Y2 [mm]&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Z-probe X3 [mm]&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Z-probe Y3 [mm]&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Z-probe bending correction A [mm]&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Z-probe bending correction B [mm]&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Z-probe bending correction C [mm]&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Stepper&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;code&gt;ENABLE_BACKLASH_COMPENSATION&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;code&gt;ALLOW_QUADSTEPPING&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Endstops&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;code&gt;ENDSTOP_PULLUP_X_MIN/ENDSTOP_X_MIN_INVERTING&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;code&gt;ENDSTOP_PULLUP_Y_MIN/ENDSTOP_Y_MIN_INVERTING&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;code&gt;ENDSTOP_PULLUP_Z_MIN/ENDSTOP_Z_MIN_INVERTING&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;code&gt;ENDSTOP_PULLUP_X_MAX/ENDSTOP_X_MAX_INVERTING&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;code&gt;ENDSTOP_PULLUP_Y_MAX/ENDSTOP_Y_MAX_INVERTING&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;code&gt;ENDSTOP_PULLUP_Z_MAX/ENDSTOP_Z_MAX_INVERTING&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fused Filament Fabrication&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;code&gt;EXTRUDER_SWITCH_XY_SPEED&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, how do I find out which temperature sensors are being used for the extruders? Where are they located?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's the EEPROM data:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;&amp;lt;Repetier-Firmware-EEPROM&amp;gt;&#xA;&amp;lt;epr pos=&quot;1028&quot; type=&quot;0&quot; value=&quot;0&quot;&amp;gt;Language&amp;lt;/epr&amp;gt;&#xA;&amp;lt;epr pos=&quot;75&quot; type=&quot;2&quot; value=&quot;115200&quot;&amp;gt;Baudrate&amp;lt;/epr&amp;gt;&#xA;&amp;lt;epr pos=&quot;129&quot; type=&quot;3&quot; value=&quot;32.752&quot;&amp;gt;Filament printed [m]&amp;lt;/epr&amp;gt;&#xA;&amp;lt;epr pos=&quot;125&quot; type=&quot;2&quot; value=&quot;21644&quot;&amp;gt;Printer active [s]&amp;lt;/epr&amp;gt;&#xA;&amp;lt;epr pos=&quot;79&quot; type=&quot;2&quot; value=&quot;0&quot;&amp;gt;Max. inactive time [ms,0=off]&amp;lt;/epr&amp;gt;&#xA;&amp;lt;epr pos=&quot;83&quot; type=&quot;2&quot; value=&quot;360000&quot;&amp;gt;Stop stepper after inactivity [ms,0=off]&amp;lt;/epr&amp;gt;&#xA;&amp;lt;epr pos=&quot;11&quot; type=&quot;3&quot; value=&quot;80.0000&quot;&amp;gt;Steps per mm&amp;lt;/epr&amp;gt;&#xA;&amp;lt;epr pos=&quot;23&quot; type=&quot;3&quot; value=&quot;200.000&quot;&amp;gt;Max. feedrate [mm/s]&amp;lt;/epr&amp;gt;&#xA;&amp;lt;epr pos=&quot;35&quot; type=&quot;3&quot; value=&quot;20.000&quot;&amp;gt;Homing feedrate [mm/s]&amp;lt;/epr&amp;gt;&#xA;&amp;lt;epr pos=&quot;39&quot; type=&quot;3&quot; value=&quot;10.000&quot;&amp;gt;Max. jerk [mm/s]&amp;lt;/epr&amp;gt;&#xA;&amp;lt;epr pos=&quot;133&quot; type=&quot;3&quot; value=&quot;-140.000&quot;&amp;gt;X min pos [mm]&amp;lt;/epr&amp;gt;&#xA;&amp;lt;epr pos=&quot;137&quot; type=&quot;3&quot; value=&quot;-140.000&quot;&amp;gt;Y min pos [mm]&amp;lt;/epr&amp;gt;&#xA;&amp;lt;epr pos=&quot;141&quot; type=&quot;3&quot; value=&quot;0.000&quot;&amp;gt;Z min pos [mm]&amp;lt;/epr&amp;gt;&#xA;&amp;lt;epr pos=&quot;145&quot; type=&quot;3&quot; value=&quot;140.000&quot;&amp;gt;X max length [mm]&amp;lt;/epr&amp;gt;&#xA;&amp;lt;epr pos=&quot;149&quot; type=&quot;3&quot; value=&quot;140.000&quot;&amp;gt;Y max length [mm]&amp;lt;/epr&amp;gt;&#xA;&amp;lt;epr pos=&quot;153&quot; type=&quot;3&quot; value=&quot;313.280&quot;&amp;gt;Z max length [mm]&amp;lt;/epr&amp;gt;&#xA;&amp;lt;epr pos=&quot;59&quot; type=&quot;3&quot; value=&quot;2000.000&quot;&amp;gt;Acceleration [mm/s^2]&amp;lt;/epr&amp;gt;&#xA;&amp;lt;epr pos=&quot;71&quot; type=&quot;3&quot; value=&quot;2000.000&quot;&amp;gt;Travel acceleration [mm/s^2]&amp;lt;/epr&amp;gt;&#xA;&amp;lt;epr pos=&quot;881&quot; type=&quot;3&quot; value=&quot;355.200&quot;&amp;gt;Diagonal rod length [mm]&amp;lt;/epr&amp;gt;&#xA;&amp;lt;epr pos=&quot;885&quot; type=&quot;3&quot; value=&quot;186.990&quot;&amp;gt;Horizontal rod radius at 0,0 [mm]&amp;lt;/epr&amp;gt;&#xA;&amp;lt;epr pos=&quot;925&quot; type=&quot;3&quot; value=&quot;140.000&quot;&amp;gt;Max printable radius [mm]&amp;lt;/epr&amp;gt;&#xA;&amp;lt;epr pos=&quot;891&quot; type=&quot;1&quot; value=&quot;70&quot;&amp;gt;Segments/s for travel&amp;lt;/epr&amp;gt;&#xA;&amp;lt;epr pos=&quot;889&quot; type=&quot;1&quot; value=&quot;180&quot;&amp;gt;Segments/s for printing&amp;lt;/epr&amp;gt;&#xA;&amp;lt;epr pos=&quot;893&quot; type=&quot;1&quot; value=&quot;0&quot;&amp;gt;Tower X endstop offset [steps]&amp;lt;/epr&amp;gt;&#xA;&amp;lt;epr pos=&quot;895&quot; type=&quot;1&quot; value=&quot;0&quot;&amp;gt;Tower Y endstop offset [steps]&amp;lt;/epr&amp;gt;&#xA;&amp;lt;epr pos=&quot;897&quot; type=&quot;1&quot; value=&quot;0&quot;&amp;gt;Tower Z endstop offset [steps]&amp;lt;/epr&amp;gt;&#xA;&amp;lt;epr pos=&quot;901&quot; type=&quot;3&quot; value=&quot;210.000&quot;&amp;gt;Alpha A(210):&amp;lt;/epr&amp;gt;&#xA;&amp;lt;epr pos=&quot;905&quot; type=&quot;3&quot; value=&quot;330.000&quot;&amp;gt;Alpha B(330):&amp;lt;/epr&amp;gt;&#xA;&amp;lt;epr pos=&quot;909&quot; type=&quot;3&quot; value=&quot;90.000&quot;&amp;gt;Alpha C(90):&amp;lt;/epr&amp;gt;&#xA;&amp;lt;epr pos=&quot;913&quot; type=&quot;3&quot; value=&quot;0.000&quot;&amp;gt;Delta Radius A(0):&amp;lt;/epr&amp;gt;&#xA;&amp;lt;epr pos=&quot;917&quot; type=&quot;3&quot; value=&quot;0.000&quot;&amp;gt;Delta Radius B(0):&amp;lt;/epr&amp;gt;&#xA;&amp;lt;epr pos=&quot;921&quot; type=&quot;3&quot; value=&quot;0.000&quot;&amp;gt;Delta Radius C(0):&amp;lt;/epr&amp;gt;&#xA;&amp;lt;epr pos=&quot;933&quot; type=&quot;3&quot; value=&quot;0.000&quot;&amp;gt;Corr. diagonal A [mm]&amp;lt;/epr&amp;gt;&#xA;&amp;lt;epr pos=&quot;937&quot; type=&quot;3&quot; value=&quot;0.000&quot;&amp;gt;Corr. diagonal B [mm]&amp;lt;/epr&amp;gt;&#xA;&amp;lt;epr pos=&quot;941&quot; type=&quot;3&quot; value=&quot;0.000&quot;&amp;gt;Corr. diagonal C [mm]&amp;lt;/epr&amp;gt;&#xA;&amp;lt;epr pos=&quot;1024&quot; type=&quot;3&quot; value=&quot;1.000&quot;&amp;gt;Coating thickness [mm]&amp;lt;/epr&amp;gt;&#xA;&amp;lt;epr pos=&quot;808&quot; type=&quot;3&quot; value=&quot;0.800&quot;&amp;gt;Z-probe height [mm]&amp;lt;/epr&amp;gt;&#xA;&amp;lt;epr pos=&quot;929&quot; type=&quot;3&quot; value=&quot;10.000&quot;&amp;gt;Max. z-probe - bed dist. [mm]&amp;lt;/epr&amp;gt;&#xA;&amp;lt;epr pos=&quot;812&quot; type=&quot;3&quot; value=&quot;5.000&quot;&amp;gt;Z-probe speed [mm/s]&amp;lt;/epr&amp;gt;&#xA;&amp;lt;epr pos=&quot;840&quot; type=&quot;3&quot; value=&quot;70.000&quot;&amp;gt;Z-probe x-y-speed [mm/s]&amp;lt;/epr&amp;gt;&#xA;&amp;lt;epr pos=&quot;800&quot; type=&quot;3&quot; value=&quot;0.000&quot;&amp;gt;Z-probe offset x [mm]&amp;lt;/epr&amp;gt;&#xA;&amp;lt;epr pos=&quot;804&quot; type=&quot;3&quot; value=&quot;0.000&quot;&amp;gt;Z-probe offset y [mm]&amp;lt;/epr&amp;gt;&#xA;&amp;lt;epr pos=&quot;816&quot; type=&quot;3&quot; value=&quot;-95.260&quot;&amp;gt;Z-probe X1 [mm]&amp;lt;/epr&amp;gt;&#xA;&amp;lt;epr pos=&quot;820&quot; type=&quot;3&quot; value=&quot;-55.000&quot;&amp;gt;Z-probe Y1 [mm]&amp;lt;/epr&amp;gt;&#xA;&amp;lt;epr pos=&quot;824&quot; type=&quot;3&quot; value=&quot;95.260&quot;&amp;gt;Z-probe X2 [mm]&amp;lt;/epr&amp;gt;&#xA;&amp;lt;epr pos=&quot;828&quot; type=&quot;3&quot; value=&quot;-55.000&quot;&amp;gt;Z-probe Y2 [mm]&amp;lt;/epr&amp;gt;&#xA;&amp;lt;epr pos=&quot;832&quot; type=&quot;3&quot; value=&quot;0.000&quot;&amp;gt;Z-probe X3 [mm]&amp;lt;/epr&amp;gt;&#xA;&amp;lt;epr pos=&quot;836&quot; type=&quot;3&quot; value=&quot;110.000&quot;&amp;gt;Z-probe Y3 [mm]&amp;lt;/epr&amp;gt;&#xA;&amp;lt;epr pos=&quot;1036&quot; type=&quot;3&quot; value=&quot;0.000&quot;&amp;gt;Z-probe bending correction A [mm]&amp;lt;/epr&amp;gt;&#xA;&amp;lt;epr pos=&quot;1040&quot; type=&quot;3&quot; value=&quot;0.000&quot;&amp;gt;Z-probe bending correction B [mm]&amp;lt;/epr&amp;gt;&#xA;&amp;lt;epr pos=&quot;1044&quot; type=&quot;3&quot; value=&quot;0.000&quot;&amp;gt;Z-probe bending correction C [mm]&amp;lt;/epr&amp;gt;&#xA;&amp;lt;epr pos=&quot;880&quot; type=&quot;0&quot; value=&quot;1&quot;&amp;gt;Autolevel active (1/0)&amp;lt;/epr&amp;gt;&#xA;&amp;lt;epr pos=&quot;106&quot; type=&quot;0&quot; value=&quot;1&quot;&amp;gt;Bed Heat Manager [0-3]&amp;lt;/epr&amp;gt;&#xA;&amp;lt;epr pos=&quot;107&quot; type=&quot;0&quot; value=&quot;255&quot;&amp;gt;Bed PID drive max&amp;lt;/epr&amp;gt;&#xA;&amp;lt;epr pos=&quot;124&quot; type=&quot;0&quot; value=&quot;80&quot;&amp;gt;Bed PID drive min&amp;lt;/epr&amp;gt;&#xA;&amp;lt;epr pos=&quot;108&quot; type=&quot;3&quot; value=&quot;196.000&quot;&amp;gt;Bed PID P-gain&amp;lt;/epr&amp;gt;&#xA;&amp;lt;epr pos=&quot;112&quot; type=&quot;3&quot; value=&quot;33.000&quot;&amp;gt;Bed PID I-gain&amp;lt;/epr&amp;gt;&#xA;&amp;lt;epr pos=&quot;116&quot; type=&quot;3&quot; value=&quot;290.000&quot;&amp;gt;Bed PID D-gain&amp;lt;/epr&amp;gt;&#xA;&amp;lt;epr pos=&quot;120&quot; type=&quot;0&quot; value=&quot;255&quot;&amp;gt;Bed PID max value [0-255]&amp;lt;/epr&amp;gt;&#xA;&amp;lt;epr pos=&quot;1020&quot; type=&quot;0&quot; value=&quot;0&quot;&amp;gt;Enable retraction conversion [0/1]&amp;lt;/epr&amp;gt;&#xA;&amp;lt;epr pos=&quot;992&quot; type=&quot;3&quot; value=&quot;3.000&quot;&amp;gt;Retraction length [mm]&amp;lt;/epr&amp;gt;&#xA;&amp;lt;epr pos=&quot;996&quot; type=&quot;3&quot; value=&quot;13.000&quot;&amp;gt;Retraction length extruder switch [mm]&amp;lt;/epr&amp;gt;&#xA;&amp;lt;epr pos=&quot;1000&quot; type=&quot;3&quot; value=&quot;40.000&quot;&amp;gt;Retraction speed [mm/s]&amp;lt;/epr&amp;gt;&#xA;&amp;lt;epr pos=&quot;1004&quot; type=&quot;3&quot; value=&quot;0.000&quot;&amp;gt;Retraction z-lift [mm]&amp;lt;/epr&amp;gt;&#xA;&amp;lt;epr pos=&quot;1008&quot; type=&quot;3&quot; value=&quot;0.000&quot;&amp;gt;Extra extrusion on undo retract [mm]&amp;lt;/epr&amp;gt;&#xA;&amp;lt;epr pos=&quot;1012&quot; type=&quot;3&quot; value=&quot;0.000&quot;&amp;gt;Extra extrusion on undo switch retract [mm]&amp;lt;/epr&amp;gt;&#xA;&amp;lt;epr pos=&quot;1016&quot; type=&quot;3&quot; value=&quot;20.000&quot;&amp;gt;Retraction undo speed&amp;lt;/epr&amp;gt;&#xA;&amp;lt;epr pos=&quot;200&quot; type=&quot;3&quot; value=&quot;93.000&quot;&amp;gt;Extr.1 steps per mm&amp;lt;/epr&amp;gt;&#xA;&amp;lt;epr pos=&quot;204&quot; type=&quot;3&quot; value=&quot;150.000&quot;&amp;gt;Extr.1 max. feedrate [mm/s]&amp;lt;/epr&amp;gt;&#xA;&amp;lt;epr pos=&quot;208&quot; type=&quot;3&quot; value=&quot;20.000&quot;&amp;gt;Extr.1 start feedrate [mm/s]&amp;lt;/epr&amp;gt;&#xA;&amp;lt;epr pos=&quot;212&quot; type=&quot;3&quot; value=&quot;5000.000&quot;&amp;gt;Extr.1 acceleration [mm/s^2]&amp;lt;/epr&amp;gt;&#xA;&amp;lt;epr pos=&quot;216&quot; type=&quot;0&quot; value=&quot;3&quot;&amp;gt;Extr.1 heat manager [0-3]&amp;lt;/epr&amp;gt;&#xA;&amp;lt;epr pos=&quot;217&quot; type=&quot;0&quot; value=&quot;230&quot;&amp;gt;Extr.1 PID drive max&amp;lt;/epr&amp;gt;&#xA;&amp;lt;epr pos=&quot;245&quot; type=&quot;0&quot; value=&quot;40&quot;&amp;gt;Extr.1 PID drive min&amp;lt;/epr&amp;gt;&#xA;&amp;lt;epr pos=&quot;218&quot; type=&quot;3&quot; value=&quot;7.0000&quot;&amp;gt;Extr.1 PID P-gain/dead-time&amp;lt;/epr&amp;gt;&#xA;&amp;lt;epr pos=&quot;222&quot; type=&quot;3&quot; value=&quot;2.0000&quot;&amp;gt;Extr.1 PID I-gain&amp;lt;/epr&amp;gt;&#xA;&amp;lt;epr pos=&quot;226&quot; type=&quot;3&quot; value=&quot;40.0000&quot;&amp;gt;Extr.1 PID D-gain&amp;lt;/epr&amp;gt;&#xA;&amp;lt;epr pos=&quot;230&quot; type=&quot;0&quot; value=&quot;255&quot;&amp;gt;Extr.1 PID max value [0-255]&amp;lt;/epr&amp;gt;&#xA;&amp;lt;epr pos=&quot;231&quot; type=&quot;2&quot; value=&quot;0&quot;&amp;gt;Extr.1 X-offset [steps]&amp;lt;/epr&amp;gt;&#xA;&amp;lt;epr pos=&quot;235&quot; type=&quot;2&quot; value=&quot;0&quot;&amp;gt;Extr.1 Y-offset [steps]&amp;lt;/epr&amp;gt;&#xA;&amp;lt;epr pos=&quot;290&quot; type=&quot;2&quot; value=&quot;0&quot;&amp;gt;Extr.1 Z-offset [steps]&amp;lt;/epr&amp;gt;&#xA;&amp;lt;epr pos=&quot;239&quot; type=&quot;1&quot; value=&quot;1&quot;&amp;gt;Extr.1 temp. stabilize time [s]&amp;lt;/epr&amp;gt;&#xA;&amp;lt;epr pos=&quot;250&quot; type=&quot;1&quot; value=&quot;150&quot;&amp;gt;Extr.1 temp. for retraction when heating [C]&amp;lt;/epr&amp;gt;&#xA;&amp;lt;epr pos=&quot;252&quot; type=&quot;1&quot; value=&quot;0&quot;&amp;gt;Extr.1 distance to retract when heating [mm]&amp;lt;/epr&amp;gt;&#xA;&amp;lt;epr pos=&quot;254&quot; type=&quot;0&quot; value=&quot;255&quot;&amp;gt;Extr.1 extruder cooler speed [0-255]&amp;lt;/epr&amp;gt;&#xA;&amp;lt;epr pos=&quot;300&quot; type=&quot;3&quot; value=&quot;93.000&quot;&amp;gt;Extr.2 steps per mm&amp;lt;/epr&amp;gt;&#xA;&amp;lt;epr pos=&quot;304&quot; type=&quot;3&quot; value=&quot;150.000&quot;&amp;gt;Extr.2 max. feedrate [mm/s]&amp;lt;/epr&amp;gt;&#xA;&amp;lt;epr pos=&quot;308&quot; type=&quot;3&quot; value=&quot;20.000&quot;&amp;gt;Extr.2 start feedrate [mm/s]&amp;lt;/epr&amp;gt;&#xA;&amp;lt;epr pos=&quot;312&quot; type=&quot;3&quot; value=&quot;5000.000&quot;&amp;gt;Extr.2 acceleration [mm/s^2]&amp;lt;/epr&amp;gt;&#xA;&amp;lt;epr pos=&quot;316&quot; type=&quot;0&quot; value=&quot;3&quot;&amp;gt;Extr.2 heat manager [0-3]&amp;lt;/epr&amp;gt;&#xA;&amp;lt;epr pos=&quot;317&quot; type=&quot;0&quot; value=&quot;230&quot;&amp;gt;Extr.2 PID drive max&amp;lt;/epr&amp;gt;&#xA;&amp;lt;epr pos=&quot;345&quot; type=&quot;0&quot; value=&quot;40&quot;&amp;gt;Extr.2 PID drive min&amp;lt;/epr&amp;gt;&#xA;&amp;lt;epr pos=&quot;318&quot; type=&quot;3&quot; value=&quot;7.0000&quot;&amp;gt;Extr.2 PID P-gain/dead-time&amp;lt;/epr&amp;gt;&#xA;&amp;lt;epr pos=&quot;322&quot; type=&quot;3&quot; value=&quot;2.0000&quot;&amp;gt;Extr.2 PID I-gain&amp;lt;/epr&amp;gt;&#xA;&amp;lt;epr pos=&quot;326&quot; type=&quot;3&quot; value=&quot;40.0000&quot;&amp;gt;Extr.2 PID D-gain&amp;lt;/epr&amp;gt;&#xA;&amp;lt;epr pos=&quot;330&quot; type=&quot;0&quot; value=&quot;255&quot;&amp;gt;Extr.2 PID max value [0-255]&amp;lt;/epr&amp;gt;&#xA;&amp;lt;epr pos=&quot;331&quot; type=&quot;2&quot; value=&quot;0&quot;&amp;gt;Extr.2 X-offset [steps]&amp;lt;/epr&amp;gt;&#xA;&amp;lt;epr pos=&quot;335&quot; type=&quot;2&quot; value=&quot;0&quot;&amp;gt;Extr.2 Y-offset [steps]&amp;lt;/epr&amp;gt;&#xA;&amp;lt;epr pos=&quot;390&quot; type=&quot;2&quot; value=&quot;0&quot;&amp;gt;Extr.2 Z-offset [steps]&amp;lt;/epr&amp;gt;&#xA;&amp;lt;epr pos=&quot;339&quot; type=&quot;1&quot; value=&quot;1&quot;&amp;gt;Extr.2 temp. stabilize time [s]&amp;lt;/epr&amp;gt;&#xA;&amp;lt;epr pos=&quot;350&quot; type=&quot;1&quot; value=&quot;150&quot;&amp;gt;Extr.2 temp. for retraction when heating [C]&amp;lt;/epr&amp;gt;&#xA;&amp;lt;epr pos=&quot;352&quot; type=&quot;1&quot; value=&quot;0&quot;&amp;gt;Extr.2 distance to retract when heating [mm]&amp;lt;/epr&amp;gt;&#xA;&amp;lt;epr pos=&quot;354&quot; type=&quot;0&quot; value=&quot;255&quot;&amp;gt;Extr.2 extruder cooler speed [0-255]&amp;lt;/epr&amp;gt;&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sorry for the long, detailed and potentially frustrating question. I'm really new to this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit&lt;/strong&gt;: To be more comprehensive, I'm including pictures of the controller boards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yKmZT.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yKmZT.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Main controller board&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/locuk.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/locuk.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Hot-end PCB&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, I've traced the printer down to a Taiwanese manufacturer: &lt;a href=&quot;http://d-force.tw/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://d-force.tw/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a few parts available: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.icshop.com.tw/product_info.php/products_id/23999&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Hot-end PCB&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://3dprinter.expresstobuy.com/products/d-force-control-board-3d-printer-dforce/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Main controller board&lt;/a&gt; &amp;amp; &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.icshop.com.tw/product_info.php/products_id/22546&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Servo motor for calibration (Z-probe)&lt;/a&gt;.&#xA;I haven't been able to find the other board (with the HRD12008 SMPS on it and placed just beside the main controller board), yet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does this change things? If yes then how?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm going ahead with burning a new firmware on the current board only because changing the board and shield combo seems too complicated to me. Is it though?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7285" LastEditorUserId="7285" LastEditDate="2017-06-10T08:07:45.280" LastActivityDate="2017-06-10T08:07:45.280" Title="Help with Repetier firmware variables (Dimension Dual Delta - J Group Robotics)" Tags="|repetier|delta|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4185" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4189" CreationDate="2017-06-03T22:13:06.413" Score="5" ViewCount="1109" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have this wing design that I want to print:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EF87K.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EF87K.png&quot; alt=&quot;wing&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can notice that its walls have a thickness, which is 1.0&amp;nbsp;mm.&#xA;I want to print it so that the perimeters are inside that thickness.&#xA;Here is the wing sliced with 1 perimeter and 0% infill:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MvFDx.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MvFDx.png&quot; alt=&quot;wing detail&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can notice a gap between the perimeters. That gap is what I want filled and not the perimeters in the image. With 0 perimeters and 100% infill I got this zig-zagged line:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/U048S.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/U048S.png&quot; alt=&quot;Zigzag filled gap between perimeters&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want the gap to be filled; but, I don't want it to be zig-zagged like in the image. I want it to be smooth like the perimeters in the other image.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically I want a smooth infill that goes around the curves just like the perimeters. The reason why I don't want to print both the perimeters and the infill is because I want to save as much weight a possible as this is a wing of a model plane that must fly, so the lighter it is the more efficient it will be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas how I can slice this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The images are screenshots in Slic3r, but I can use Cura as well.&#xA;This is just a test slice. The wing model is not finished yet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7362" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2017-06-04T09:18:28.117" LastActivityDate="2017-06-05T06:09:23.227" Title="How to slice this wing so it has a smooth infill like perimeters" Tags="|slicing|infill|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4186" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4185" CreationDate="2017-06-03T23:24:04.290" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Consider to create a test print using the settings you've presented in the sliced output rendering. It could be something as small as a 4 or 5 mm tall cross section, enough to get clear of the bed and establish a stable base. You may find that your goal is achieved.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also consider that a common nozzle diameter is 0.4 mm and with an extrusion multiplier, you may not reach a clean integer combination. That is to say, a 0.4 mm nozzle and a 1.05 extrusion factor results in (theoretically) a build thickness of 0.42 mm. Take two of those and you have 0.84, but three of them are 1.26 mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can increase number of wall thicknesses or reduce them as needed to avoid infill or the attempt by the printer to create infill. It may be necessary to adjust your model parameters to achieve a clean combination.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know that Slic3r supports concentric infill, which will effectively trace the walls rather than turn them into zig-zag shapes. On a base layer, having such a pattern may make for a weaker layer, but you can adjust so many things in that respect that you should be able to accomplish your objective.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Experimentation is useful in a situation such as this. What Slic3r shows you isn't necessarily what will hit the bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastActivityDate="2017-06-03T23:24:04.290" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4187" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4184" CreationDate="2017-06-04T00:40:34.673" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Each of the settings have informative comments written just before the setting's &lt;code&gt;#define&lt;/code&gt;, so reading those can point you in the right direction - if the required value doesn't jump out at you from your EEPROM settings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Taking an educated guess (and I could be wrong), and after looking at the comments, I would imagine that:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;General and Dimensions:&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;code&gt;KILL_METHOD&lt;/code&gt;. From &lt;a href=&quot;http://forum.repetier.com/discussion/247/repetier-firmware-configuration-questions-prusa-mendel&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Repetier firmware configuration questions (prusa mendel)&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I would select the second kill method since it allows to continue with your printer after a crash.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, you want to have&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#define KILL_METHOD 1&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;No idea, at the moment&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You can either measure the height the carriage is from the floor, when the rod(s) is(are) horizontal, or just use the default &lt;code&gt;15&lt;/code&gt; to be safe - it is probably best to double check this and physically measure it, to prevent any damage:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;// Margin (mm) to avoid above tower minimum (xMin xMinsteps)&#xA;// If your printer can put its carriage low enough the rod is horizontal without hitting the floor&#xA;// set this to zero. Otherwise, measure how high the carriage is from horizontal rod&#xA;// Also, movement speeds are 10x to 20x cartesian speeds at tower bottom.&#xA;// You may need to leave a few mm for safety.&#xA;// Hitting floor at high speed can damage your printer (motors, drives, etc)&#xA;// THIS MAY NEED UPDATING IF THE HOT END HEIGHT CHANGES!&#xA;#define DELTA_FLOOR_SAFETY_MARGIN_MM 15&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;code&gt;DELTA_MAX_RADIUS&lt;/code&gt; use &lt;code&gt;Max printable radius [mm]&lt;/code&gt;. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The values you have for &lt;code&gt;Alpha A(210)&lt;/code&gt;, &lt;code&gt;Alpha B(330)&lt;/code&gt; &amp;amp; &lt;code&gt;Alpha C(90)&lt;/code&gt; each, would be for:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#define DELTA_ALPHA_A 210&#xA;#define DELTA_ALPHA_B 330&#xA;#define DELTA_ALPHA_C 90&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The correction radii &lt;em&gt;should&lt;/em&gt; be &lt;code&gt;0&lt;/code&gt; and are the values you have for &lt;code&gt;Delta Radius A(0)&lt;/code&gt;, &lt;code&gt;Delta Radius B(0)&lt;/code&gt; &amp;amp; &lt;code&gt;Delta Radius C(0)&lt;/code&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;/** Correct radius by this value for each column. &#xA;    Perfect builds have 0 everywhere. */&#xA;#define DELTA_RADIUS_CORRECTION_A 0&#xA;#define DELTA_RADIUS_CORRECTION_B 0&#xA;#define DELTA_RADIUS_CORRECTION_C 0&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Likewise, given your EEPROM settings that you have listed the values you have for &lt;code&gt;Corr. diagonal A[mm]&lt;/code&gt;, &lt;code&gt;Corr. diagonal B[mm]&lt;/code&gt; &amp;amp; &lt;code&gt;Corr. diagonal C[mm]&lt;/code&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;/** Correction of the default diagonal size. Value gets added.*/&#xA;#define DELTA_DIAGONAL_CORRECTION_A 0&#xA;#define DELTA_DIAGONAL_CORRECTION_B 0&#xA;#define DELTA_DIAGONAL_CORRECTION_C 0&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Z-correction (distortion correction)&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;code&gt;DISTORTION_START_DEGRADE&lt;/code&gt; - Initially, I would leave this at default. You can always tweak it at a later stage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;/** z distortion degrades to 0 from this height on. You should start after the first layer to get&#xA;best bonding with surface. */&#xA;#define DISTORTION_START_DEGRADE 0.5&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;code&gt;DISTORTION_END_HEIGHT&lt;/code&gt; - Initially, I would leave this at default. You can always tweak it at a later stage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;/** z distortion correction gets down to 0 at this height. */&#xA;#define DISTORTION_END_HEIGHT 1.5&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;code&gt;DISTORTION_CORRECTION_R&lt;/code&gt; - Initially, I would leave this at default. You can always tweak it at a later stage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;/* For delta printers you simply define the measured radius around origin */&#xA;#define DISTORTION_CORRECTION_R       80&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;code&gt;DISTORTION_UPDATE_FREQUENCY&lt;/code&gt; - For the moment, I would leave this at default. As the comments remark, this is computationally intensive, and will use a lot of processing power - power that you want to keep for controlling the motors. SO, it is best to not make this frequency too high.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;/** Correction computation is not a cheap operation and changes are only small. So it&#xA;is not necessary to update it for every sub-line computed. For example lets take DELTA_SEGMENTS_PER_SECOND_PRINT = 150&#xA;and fastest print speed 100 mm/s. So we have a maximum segment length of 100/150 = 0.66 mm.&#xA;Now lats say our point field is 200 x 200 mm with 9 x 9 points. So between 2 points we have&#xA;200 / (9-1) = 25 mm. So we need at least 25 / 0.66 = 37 lines to move to the next measuring&#xA;point. So updating correction every 15 calls gives us at least 2 updates between the&#xA;measured points.&#xA;NOTE: Explicit z changes will always trigger an update!&#xA;*/&#xA;#define DISTORTION_UPDATE_FREQUENCY   15&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Stepper&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;code&gt;ENABLE_BACKLASH_COMPENSATION&lt;/code&gt; - As stated, it is rarely needed, so leave it set to &lt;code&gt;0&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;/* If you have a backlash in both z-directions, you can use this. For most printer, the bed will be pushed down by it's&#xA;own weight, so this is nearly never needed. */&#xA;#define ENABLE_BACKLASH_COMPENSATION 0&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;code&gt;ALLOW_QUADSTEPPING&lt;/code&gt; - Do you need high frequencies? This could be a case of leaving set to the default of &lt;code&gt;1&lt;/code&gt;, and if you experience stalling then set to &lt;code&gt;0&lt;/code&gt; to see if it cures the stalling&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;/** If you need frequencies off more then 30000 you definitely need to enable this. If you have only 1/8 stepping&#xA;enabling this may cause to stall your moves when 20000Hz is reached.&#xA;*/&#xA;#define ALLOW_QUADSTEPPING 1&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Endstops&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;code&gt;ENDSTOP_PULLUP_X_MIN/ENDSTOP_X_MIN_INVERTING&lt;/code&gt; - these are relatively easy.  From the comment for &lt;code&gt;ENDSTOP_X_MIN_INVERTING&lt;/code&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;/* By default all endstops are pulled up to HIGH. You need a pull-up if you&#xA;use a mechanical endstop connected with GND. Set value to false for no pull-up&#xA;on this endstop.&#xA;*/&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A &lt;em&gt;pullup&lt;/em&gt; refers to a &lt;a href=&quot;https://arduino.stackexchange.com/questions/25353/why-are-pull-up-resistors-needed&quot;&gt;pull-up resistor&lt;/a&gt;. This is, in this case, a piece of circuitry in the &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Microcontroller&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;MicroController Unit&lt;/a&gt; (MCU) (i.e. the Arduino chip[ATmega 2560] on the controller board. This &lt;code&gt;#define&lt;/code&gt; allows you to enable, or disable, it for each input connected to an endstop. Basically, they stop short circuits between the power supply and ground - they do more than that but... You probably need the &lt;code&gt;MAX&lt;/code&gt; endstops enabled, where you actually have an endstop. If there are no &lt;code&gt;MIN&lt;/code&gt; endstops, i.e. at the bottom of the rails, then these can be set to false.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#define ENDSTOP_PULLUP_X_MIN false&#xA;#define ENDSTOP_PULLUP_Y_MIN false&#xA;#define ENDSTOP_PULLUP_Z_MIN false&#xA;#define ENDSTOP_PULLUP_X_MAX true&#xA;#define ENDSTOP_PULLUP_Y_MAX true&#xA;#define ENDSTOP_PULLUP_Z_MAX true&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;code&gt;ENDSTOP_X_MIN_INVERTING&lt;/code&gt; this merely allows you to invert the input from the endstop. For example, if the endstop is triggered by a vertical carriage, then the switch will &quot;close&quot;. If, instead, the code is actually looking for an &quot;open&quot; switch, rather than a &quot;closed&quot; switch, when the endstop switch is being triggered by the vertical carriage hitting it, then you simply need to invert it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;//set to true to invert the logic of the endstops&#xA;#define ENDSTOP_X_MIN_INVERTING true&#xA;#define ENDSTOP_Y_MIN_INVERTING true&#xA;#define ENDSTOP_Z_MIN_INVERTING true&#xA;#define ENDSTOP_X_MAX_INVERTING false&#xA;#define ENDSTOP_Y_MAX_INVERTING false&#xA;#define ENDSTOP_Z_MAX_INVERTING false&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Fused Filament Fabrication&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;code&gt;EXTRUDER_SWITCH_XY_SPEED&lt;/code&gt; - Probably best to leave as default, &lt;code&gt;100&lt;/code&gt;, and tweak later, if need be&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;/* Speed in mm/s for extruder moves fom internal commands, e.g. switching extruder. */&#xA;#define EXTRUDER_SWITCH_XY_SPEED 100&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With respect to the temperature sensor settings on the extruder (read: hotend), from &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.repetier.com/documentation/repetier-firmware/rf-installation/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Repetier-Firmware Documentation&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#define EXT0_TEMPSENSOR_TYPE 5 &#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;What temperature sensor are you using in the extruder. The configuration file lists possible values&#xA;  and meanings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#define EXT0_TEMPSENSOR_PIN 0&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;This parameter is tricky and often causes wrong configurations. For historical reasons it is named PIN&#xA;  but it IS NOT A PIN NUMBER. It is the position in an array of analog&#xA;  input sources. In this array, the real pin number is stored. In 99.9%&#xA;  0 is the correct answer here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#define EXT0_HEATER_PIN HEATER_0_PIN&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Which pin enables the heater block. It works with any pin. PWM capability is not required to use&#xA;  PID on an output.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For &lt;code&gt;EXT0_TEMPSENSOR_TYPE&lt;/code&gt;, the temperature sensor is &quot;buried' inside the hotend heater block, and as such it is probably not going to be easy, nor desirable, to remove and examine - although it is certainly possible to do so, if you feel up to the job. If could be just a question of trial-and-error. You have eight, or so, to choose from. However, the 100k thermistor is one of the most common types, and so &lt;code&gt;1&lt;/code&gt; would seem like a good setting to choose, initially:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;// What type of sensor is used?&#xA;// 0 is no thermistor/temperature control&#xA;// 1 is 100k thermistor (Epcos B57560G0107F000 - RepRap-Fab.org and many other)&#xA;// 2 is 200k thermistor&#xA;// 3 is mendel-parts thermistor (EPCOS G550)&#xA;// 4 is 10k thermistor&#xA;// 8 is ATC Semitec 104GT-2&#xA;// 12 is 100k RS thermistor 198-961&#xA;// 13 is PT100 for E3D/Ultimaker&#xA;// 14 is 100K NTC 3950&#xA;// 5 is userdefined thermistor table 0&#xA;// 6 is userdefined thermistor table 1&#xA;// 7 is userdefined thermistor table 2&#xA;// 50 is userdefined thermistor table 0 for PTC thermistors&#xA;// 51 is userdefined thermistor table 0 for PTC thermistors&#xA;// 52 is userdefined thermistor table 0 for PTC thermistors&#xA;// 60 is AD8494, AD8495, AD8496 or AD8497 (5mV/degC and 1/4 the price of AD595 but only MSOT_08 package)&#xA;// 61 is AD8494, AD8495, AD8496 or AD8497 (5mV/degC and 1.25 Vref offset like adafruit breakout)&#xA;// 97 Generic thermistor table 1&#xA;// 98 Generic thermistor table 2&#xA;// 99 Generic thermistor table 3&#xA;// 100 is AD595&#xA;// 101 is MAX6675&#xA;// 102 is MAX31855&#xA;#define EXT0_TEMPSENSOR_TYPE 1&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As the Repetier documentation states, in 99.9% of the cases, for &lt;code&gt;EXT0_TEMPSENSOR_PIN&lt;/code&gt; a value of &lt;code&gt;0&lt;/code&gt; will probably work. If it does not, then you may need to change this to some other value.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For &lt;code&gt;EXT0_HEATER_PIN HEATER_0_PIN&lt;/code&gt;, just follow the wiring of your printer, and see which pin the heater is connected to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Where and how to change the settings&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You are probably aware of this already, but in case you aren't...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you have downloaded &lt;code&gt;Repetier-Firmware-master.zip&lt;/code&gt; from &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/repetier/Repetier-Firmware&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Github.com: repetier/Repetier-Firmware&lt;/a&gt;, and unzipped it, then you will need to edit the files in &lt;code&gt;Configuration.h&lt;/code&gt; in the &lt;code&gt;src/ArduinoAVR/Repetier&lt;/code&gt; directory. Note that the ArduinoAVR directory is used for the Arduino Mega 2560 board, and its derivatives.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Open &lt;code&gt;Repetier.ino&lt;/code&gt; in the Arduino IDE, and edit &lt;code&gt;Configuration.h&lt;/code&gt; in the Arduino IDE. You could also edit &lt;code&gt;Configuration.h&lt;/code&gt; in your favourite plain text editor, if need be, but it is probably easier, and simpler to do everything in the Arduino IDE.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you have edited the settings that you require, as I described in &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/4161/help-with-repetier-firmware-probably-locked-and-licensed&quot;&gt;Help with Repetier firmware (probably locked and licensed)&lt;/a&gt;, compile and upload the firmware to your board. Then run a print. If something seems to be incorrectly set, stop the print. Then re-tweak your settings ad compile and upload again, and then run another test print. Ad infinitum...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After a few iterations, you should be quite comfortable with this process, and end up with a well calibrated printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4762" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2017-06-04T15:58:41.397" LastActivityDate="2017-06-04T15:58:41.397" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4188" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-06-04T01:46:48.983" Score="8" ViewCount="2847" Body="&lt;p&gt;Let me start with a disclaimer: I'm new to 3D design, to design in general and specifically brand new to Fusion 360. This is my first project.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I started by creating a hollow cylinder, with the one end open and the other end closed. For example a hollow cylinder with the bottom closed and the top open.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was able to create such hollow cylinder using the cylinder and shell tools.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, I wish to carve / engrave a pattern on the shell. I may want this carving to go all the way through the shell (practically making a hole the shape of my pattern); or,I may just want to engrave on part of the shell, but not cut all the way though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My pattern is a sound wave. I have a 2D black and white image of this sound wave. I may want to carve it onto the curved shell, so that it curves around the cylinder. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope my description is clear. Another way to describe what I'm looking for, is to imagine cutting the sound wave pattern though a 2D rectangle, and then curl this rectangle along its width into a cylinder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I do something like that?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7196" LastEditorUserId="6417" LastEditDate="2017-06-07T20:34:14.633" LastActivityDate="2018-01-30T15:56:36.030" Title="How to carve a hollow cylinder along the curved surface in Fusion 360" Tags="|3d-models|3d-design|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4189" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4185" CreationDate="2017-06-04T13:07:07.853" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found a great solution!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In Cura, there is a setting under &lt;strong&gt;Shell&lt;/strong&gt; called &lt;strong&gt;Horizontal Expansion&lt;/strong&gt;. What this does is it controls the distance between the two perimeters. A negative value in this field will make them come closer together, thus removing the gap between them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tRWQU.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tRWQU.png&quot; alt=&quot;Horizontal Expansion settings dialog&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found that -0.1 is the perfect value for 1 mm thick walls like the ones in my design. So I set it to -0.1, then set the infill to 100% because in some spots the thickness is a little bit more than 1 mm, so the infill closes the gaps in those places. Here is the result:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nZ7fD.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nZ7fD.png&quot; alt=&quot;Image of Solid perimeters&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can see the perimeters are now sticking to each other and there is no gap between them. The result estimated weight is 71 g, which is a quite good reduction from the estimated 92 g when not using horizontal expansion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7362" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2017-06-05T06:09:23.227" LastActivityDate="2017-06-05T06:09:23.227" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4191" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4180" CreationDate="2017-06-04T16:21:24.017" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could experiment with the 'cleaning' part of the startup gcode shown &lt;a href=&quot;http://reprap.org/wiki/Start_GCode_routines&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;G1 X100 Y0 F4000 ; move half way along the front edge&#xA;G1 Z1 ; move nozzle close to bed&#xA;M109 S200 ; heat nozzle to 200 degC and wait until reached&#xA;G4 P10000 ; wait 10 seconds for nozzle length to stabilize&#xA;G1 E10 ; extrude 10 mm of filament&#xA;G1 z15 F12000 E5 ; move 15 mm up, fast, while extruding 5mm&#xA;G92 E0 ; reset extruder&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not completely persuaded that it helps a lot, but the idea is to fill the extruder (with some pressure from the bed at a 1mm gap) right before starting the skirt. Typically, I still find the first line of skirt may be quite blobby, but a 2nd line of skirt seems much better. Obviously you need the bed alignment right too. A raft seems to have enough 'extra' extrusion to mask these issues a little bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Later reflection suggests that these introductory G-code snippets (I've now started using the PRUSA one of a line along the edge of the bed) risk problems  with flexible filament, so it might be best to err on the side of conservative for the extrude volume rather than assume that more is better here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can find other similar solutions in this question: &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6355/writing-g-code-swiping-at-start-of-print/6357?s=2|10.4629#6357&quot;&gt;Writing G-code : swiping at start of print&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4927" LastEditorUserId="4927" LastEditDate="2018-09-21T17:11:21.233" LastActivityDate="2018-09-21T17:11:21.233" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4192" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4180" CreationDate="2017-06-04T20:26:39.910" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I started work on mine, the bed leveling and radius (Delta-only issue) were horrid, and my erstwhile assistant was fond of using a LOT of glue stick, which sort-of made things work, though in many cases with no first layer extrusion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As I sorted things out, I found an apparent bug (Repetier Host (Mac) and Marlin 1.1.0-RC8 firmware - not sure which side the apparent bug is on, really, but I'd guess Repetier) where setting the first layer by percent lead to no extrusion, and setting an actual width/height it extruded. I also got the bed level and radius sorted so the first layer settings actually applied to most of the print area, rather than being wrong for most of it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, we sorted out some temperature issues (wrong thermistor type setting) and then found a fairly large discrepancy between the heater block and the nozzle (screwed into it) temperature. I now lay down the first layer (PLA) at a purported 240°C, based on a number of trials at different temperatures (which might change with a different batch of filament, I guess) and the rest at a purported 215°C. I set the first layer width to double the height so it's really laying down some plastic. An excessively LOW first layer height also causes problems (as there's very little plastic coming out if the layer is very low, even if you set the width wide.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My bed is not heated and is plain glass, but I now get reasonable sticking with a &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; thin layer of gluestick (I put a dab on and rub it around with a little bit of water - it's barely visible.) With a coated heated bed that sticks to rafts, I think you'll just need to work on your first layer settings (including a level bed) and should not need to worry about glue at all. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6853" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2017-06-06T03:01:24.587" LastActivityDate="2017-06-06T03:01:24.587" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4194" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4180" CreationDate="2017-06-05T13:58:14.220" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;While using rafts with PLA is a good idea due to warping, PETG is a material that requires very little build plate adhesion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I printed with PLA, I would normally use a two layer raft with a 0.3&amp;nbsp;mm air gap. With PETG, however, I only need a skirt. I recommend calibrating your extruder height so that when you slide a piece of paper underneath, you feel a gentle tug. While 0.2&amp;nbsp;mm is enough for printing PLA with rafts, 0.1-0.15&amp;nbsp;mm has worked well for me in terms of distance from the extruder nozzle to the heat bed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, would you mind sharing your extruder and heat bed temperatures? Ive found that although PETG &lt;em&gt;will&lt;/em&gt; melt at the same temperature as PLA, it tends to drag behind the extruder nozzle if the temperature is below ~240°C. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One final note: Even though most PETG distributors specify that a heated build plate is not required, a heated bed helps my prints stick better. I run a 60°C heat bed which seems to make my prints smoother in the end.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7376" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2017-06-05T16:57:17.770" LastActivityDate="2017-06-05T16:57:17.770" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4195" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3605" CreationDate="2017-06-05T21:59:18.813" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have tried to make an &lt;strong&gt;unfair die&lt;/strong&gt; by putting 100% infill in the conner opposite to 6, 5 and 4.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you float it, it always comes with expected side up. So with floating you really can check if somebody has &lt;strong&gt;tried&lt;/strong&gt; to make it unfair.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The real-life tests have unfortunately shown my complete failure :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After 104 throws the average is 3.49. Even less than &quot;fair&quot; 3.5!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It looks like the weight of plastic is too low to compete with hitting and rotation. The next try could be to put something metallic into it during printing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6360" LastActivityDate="2017-06-05T21:59:18.813" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4196" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-06-05T22:30:24.497" Score="2" ViewCount="564" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a laser-engraving &quot;head&quot; for one of my 3D printers (a Boxzy, so it's designed for it, not just strapping a random laser onto something), and I'd like to try using it to, well, &lt;em&gt;engrave&lt;/em&gt; something. So:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Can anyone point me to some control software for this? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Boxzy came with a license to Fusion360, but I found that nearly impossible to use (or maybe understand), and it wasn't clear how to apply it to engraving anyway (as opposed to milling or regular FDM printing).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suppose I could just sketch out a thin 3D extrusion of the text or design, and print it in the usual way, setting the layer-height and/or scaling so it only &quot;prints&quot; one or 2 layers. I guess turning the laser on and off counts as turning the extruder motor on and off... But that's clearly a hack. Any &quot;real&quot; software for this sort of thing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any other hints are also welcome.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm thinking of writing my own software to generate G-code for this, though rasterizing fonts sounds painful in something like OpenScad... Must be a better way...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2018-08-16T09:29:03.070" LastActivityDate="2018-08-16T09:29:03.070" Title="Laser engraving software for Boxzy 3D printer" Tags="|software|laser|2d|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4197" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-06-06T00:32:18.853" Score="4" ViewCount="472" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to figure out whether the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wanhao3dprinter.com/xiazai/I3_Plus_user_manual_REV.A.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Wanhao Duplicator i3 Plus&lt;/a&gt; can easily be extended to print with two separate filaments using the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.distechautomation.com/products/prometheus-system&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Prometheus System&lt;/a&gt; by DisTech Automation using a single hotend (NOT with two separate hot ends/nozzles).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to DisTech, the Prometheus System is compatible with 3D printers that support the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Dual extruder stepper motors on the controller board&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;CURA slicer engine (Simplify3D support is in development)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Marlin/Repetier based firmware (this includes almost all desktop 3D printers)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As I'm not an expert on 3D printing and don't own the Duplicator yet (making up purchase decision right now), I'd appreciate if you could help me with your past experience with Duplicator and/or Prometheus.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7377" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2018-12-12T14:54:08.987" LastActivityDate="2018-12-13T08:55:31.243" Title="Is the Prometheus system compatible with Wanhao Duplicator i3 Plus?" Tags="|wanhao|multi-material|duplicator-i3-plus|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4198" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4177" CreationDate="2017-06-06T03:09:09.517" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;So, following on from &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/4177/dual-extruder-setup-in-marlin/4179#4179&quot;&gt;Mark's answer&lt;/a&gt;, in &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/JimBrown/MarlinTarantula/blob/bugfix-1.1.x/Marlin/Conditionals_LCD.h#L298&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;line 298&lt;/a&gt; of &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/JimBrown/MarlinTarantula/blob/bugfix-1.1.x/Marlin/Conditionals_LCD.h&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Conditional_LCD.h&lt;/a&gt;, you would need to change:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#define HOTENDS       1&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;to&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#define HOTENDS       2&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4762" LastActivityDate="2017-06-06T03:09:09.517" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4199" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4196" CreationDate="2017-06-06T03:15:04.780" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Autodesk must have been reading your mind.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A brand new video just got posted today from Autodesk on how to do this in F360.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-E4Hr7lcBzc&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/R1Qwa.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6417" LastActivityDate="2017-06-06T03:15:04.780" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4201" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3771" CreationDate="2017-06-07T19:38:49.040" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Dust collectors, fume extractors, and mist collectors for other industrial processes like welding, machining, and woodworking start at a few thousand dollars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Allerair AirMedic Pro 6 (formerly 6000 series) is available from as low as $600. It is marketed in some places as an air purifier but others as a general purpose air filter. In any case it uses activated carbon and a HEPA filter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7394" LastActivityDate="2017-06-07T19:38:49.040" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4202" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4165" CreationDate="2017-06-07T19:42:46.593" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is an open source MTConnect adapter/agent written in Python for MakerBot Replicator that includes axis position. To my knowledge it was only developed for and tested on a Replicator 2, though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/mtconnect/makerbot_agent&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://github.com/mtconnect/makerbot_agent&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7394" LastActivityDate="2017-06-07T19:42:46.593" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4203" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4204" CreationDate="2017-06-08T15:04:33.720" Score="2" ViewCount="146" Body="&lt;p&gt;Has anyone used one of these aluminium cubes?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IyXtG.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IyXtG.png&quot; alt=&quot;Aluminium cube&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is used to mount the fan for the hotend, when used on a delta effector, like so:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EikQC.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EikQC.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Aluminium cube and hotend&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are they a good idea? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Without actually buying one and trying it, compared to the &lt;em&gt;traditional&lt;/em&gt; fan mount, I imagine the pros are &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Additional heatsink surface area&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and that is it, I could think of only &lt;strong&gt;one&lt;/strong&gt; tenuous advantage...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I would imagine that the cons are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Additional weight on the effector&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;, for the push rods to move around, i.e. slightly higher inertia;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Probably restricted air flow, and;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Unnecessary additional cost&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Therefore, as the cons appears to outweigh the pros, are they worth upgrading to from, say, a typical plastic fan mount:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Apj6V.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Apj6V.png&quot; alt=&quot;Plastic fan mount&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone have first hand experience? Are there any other additional benefits, and/or is heat dissipation &lt;em&gt;that much&lt;/em&gt; better? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; Of course, the lightest solution is with the fan mounted, such that it hangs off the top of the effector, but with no air flow guide and hence less effective heat dissipation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4762" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2017-06-08T16:25:51.940" LastActivityDate="2017-06-08T16:25:54.770" Title="Aluminium cube - fan and hotend mount - is it worth it?" Tags="|hotend|delta|fans|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4204" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4203" CreationDate="2017-06-08T16:21:14.447" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think its only advantage is that it serves to move money from the folks who buy it to the folks that sell it, and that's an advantage purely for the folks that sell it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;Additional heatsink surface area&quot; is quite doubtful - it would have poor coupling to the actual heatsink. If the actual heatsink is correctly designed, there's no need for additional area, anyway. This design clearly does limit airflow to the top and bottom fins - the bottom one, in particular, is not a good place to limit airflow for best function, and yet it's severely occluded by the design of this block.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Save your money.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit - I think the plastic one shown is also less than ideal - the close coupling to the edges of the heatsink reduces the effectiveness of the heatsink, which would otherwise be dumping heat into the airflow past those edges. A better design (IMHO, gut engineering) would be spaced off the ends/edges of the fins about as much as the space between fins, not touching them. Axial fans perform poorly with backpressure, and that would also reduce backpressure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6853" LastEditorUserId="6853" LastEditDate="2017-06-08T16:25:54.770" LastActivityDate="2017-06-08T16:25:54.770" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4205" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4206" CreationDate="2017-06-09T05:33:24.357" Score="6" ViewCount="647" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just printed my first thing, now there's very little filament left in my Monoprice Select Mini v2. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What do I do about it? Yank it out? Try to print out what's left of it and hope it all extrudes safely? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure what my next move here is. Is doing either, dangerous to the safety of my machine? I haven't seen any guides or information on this and I'm afraid I'm going to break something.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7412" LastEditorUserId="7412" LastEditDate="2018-09-10T04:20:13.110" LastActivityDate="2018-09-10T04:20:13.110" Title="What do I do when I have a little filament left?" Tags="|filament|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4206" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4205" CreationDate="2017-06-09T07:16:09.793" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;Heat the extruder up first, then remove the filament. You can remove the filament either by reversing the extruder using a command such as &lt;code&gt;G1 E-100 F200&lt;/code&gt;, by using your printer's controls/LCD (if it has one) or simply pull the filament out by hand. To this end, most extruders have a lever that you can push to disengage the drive gear to make it easier to pull the filament out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can just heat the extruder up to printing temperature, but a perhaps better approach is a cold-pull, where you heat the extruder up just barely enough to be able to remove the filament (to, say, 120-180°C) and then pull the filament out. This has the advantage of removing more of the old filament and perhaps also taking some debris that may be stuck in the nozzle with it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Trying to print it all out won't work because once the last bit of filament goes past the drive gear, you won't be able to extrude the rest of it. Feeding in a new bit of filament might push the old filament out, but it could just as easily get jammed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastActivityDate="2017-06-09T07:16:09.793" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4207" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-06-09T12:55:29.157" Score="4" ViewCount="1135" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've noticed that after my Anet A8 completes a print, the right hand Z mount ends up 1-2&amp;nbsp;mm lower than the left, even though I make sure both the left and right hand Z mounts of the X-axis are at the same height before switching on the printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know what the cause of this might be?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm guessing something is causing the right hand Z to skip steps. I can't see or hear any obvious mechanical issues. I checked all guide and threaded rods were straight before assembly.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could it be a faulty stepper or control electronics?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7405" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2018-07-08T11:54:16.933" LastActivityDate="2018-07-08T11:54:16.933" Title="Anet A8 right Z drops 2 mm during print" Tags="|z-axis|anet-a8|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4208" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4211" CreationDate="2017-06-09T16:12:34.507" Score="4" ViewCount="348" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm able to connect to Arduino+RAMPS through USB. I can even check end stops with &lt;code&gt;M119&lt;/code&gt;. However, if I plug it to the power supply, my MacBook goes crazy and restart itself! Things I have tried:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Uninstalled OSX, installed Ubuntu, I get readiness error when PSU is connected.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bought a new pair of RAMPS + Arduino.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Run RAMPS all naked without anything on it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Measured PSU output, 12.2&amp;nbsp;V is stable.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm at a point I started to think my MacBook's USB ports are messed up. It is a 2008 model, do you think that would be right to blame?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tried a new and a very short USB cable: It worked for the first time and I'm able to home all axes, but laptop's trackpad gets very hard to control for some reason. I can only use an external mouse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7420" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2017-06-10T17:22:38.547" LastActivityDate="2017-06-10T20:16:03.083" Title="Printrun doesn't connect when 12 V is on" Tags="|ramps-1.4|arduino-mega-2650|pronterface|grounding|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4209" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4210" CreationDate="2017-06-10T01:56:58.333" Score="7" ViewCount="1072" Body="&lt;h3&gt;TL;DR&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it possible to build a hotend, using separate parts, sourced on eBay, from China, and still achieve a high quality print?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my opinion, the E3D V6 hotend is rather expensive, at $/£70, especially to those building to a tight budget. Now, obviously/presumably, there is some quite rigorous QA and testing of the build, and they have to pay for their research costs and initial machining set ups and this is reflected in the high cost. Also, the expression, &lt;em&gt;you get what you pay for&lt;/em&gt;, springs to mind.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I wondered if I sourced the individual parts from China, for a dollar apiece, that is to say the:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Throat (with Teflon lining)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Heating block&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Heatsink&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Nozzle&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pneumatic connector (PC4-05/PC4-M06)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Heater&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Thermistor&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;could I too, end up with a hotend, that performs as well as, or even out performs, an E3D hotend, or am I living in cloud cuckoo land?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After all, let's not forget that most, if not, all of the parts used in a E3D hotend probably come from China anyway, these days, as most production facilites have moved from the US/EU to the cheaper manufacturing bases and machining shops, in SE Asia.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have read &lt;em&gt;so many times&lt;/em&gt; that people were experiencing extrusion problems, shoddy prints, etc, from their cheap printer, until they finally shelled out the cash and upgraded to a genuine E3D hotend. After that the prints were much improved. I have read this &lt;em&gt;countless&lt;/em&gt; times, in blogs, threads, etc., so I presume that it is not possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I realise that if the parts are not finished correctly, and end up with burring on the inside of the throat, nozzle, etc., then the filament will not extrude correctly. See &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/3985/how-long-is-an-extruders-nozzles-life/3988#3988&quot;&gt;tbm0115's answer&lt;/a&gt; to &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/3985/how-long-is-an-extruders-nozzles-life/&quot;&gt;How long is an extruder&amp;#39;s/nozzle&amp;#39;s life?&lt;/a&gt; However, assuming that the parts that I receive are machined, and finished, correctly then there should not be a problem, right?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has anyone actually done this? Is tinkering with hotends a done thing? Does anyone have any good pointers and/or tips?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;NOTE: This question is not really after opinionated answers, in order to stay within SE rules - although opinions are always welcome - but I just want to know if anyone has first hand (positive or negative) experience of this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4762" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:29:41.667" LastActivityDate="2018-06-26T09:26:24.220" Title="Can cheap hotend parts sourced from China actually produce good prints?" Tags="|printer-building|hotend|diy-3d-printer|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4210" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4209" CreationDate="2017-06-10T02:57:16.483" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hard to say for sure - my whole printer is cheap parts bought as a kit in China by a Chinese student who abandoned it in the US (I resurrected it after it was abandoned.) It includes all the parts you list, and I think we finally sorted out what the thermistor actually is so the temperatures are more accurate now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It prints. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could it print better? - Probably, but at some point replacing all the various cheap parts starts to look foolish .vs. just build a new printer with better parts all around, leaving the original functional. I doubt I've ever met a &quot;E3D V6&quot; and I'd have to google it to see what sort of paragon of printing it's supposed to be. The only thing I'm actually considering replacing is the nozzle itself, partly because I'm just guessing what size it is (mostly based on the way it prints when set to various sizes.) I'm also contemplating adding some sort of insulation for the heater block, having squnched some aluminum foil around it as a first stop-gap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Likewise, if your concern is with burrs, etc. a degree of fettling by you can sort that sort of thing out, if you know to do it and how to do it (i.e. you need to be somewhat mechanically ept.) But of course &quot;parts from China&quot; are not a monolithic entity - there are good parts and bad parts that both come from China - given the state of internet sales, you may well have (unknown to you) the choice of parts that passed quality control, parts that failed quality control, and parts that quality control never looked at (some of which might pass, some of which might fail), from the same production facility, available to you from various vendors at various price points. And then there are many different production facilities as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Production in the US or Europe is no magic bullet either - competing with imports on price is difficult, so one hopes that superior quality is on offer, but it may or may not actually be from a given vendor, or a given batch of parts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6853" LastActivityDate="2017-06-10T02:57:16.483" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4211" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4208" CreationDate="2017-06-10T04:02:47.390" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds a bit like you are having (additional) grounding issues&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;. Are your MacBook and the RAMPS using the same ground, i.e. are they using the same mains circuit?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;If&lt;/em&gt; you are using the same power strip, then the next thing to check would be that the PSU on the printer correctly grounded (at the bottom of the unit).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From David Crocker's superlative blog, see &lt;a href=&quot;https://miscsolutions.wordpress.com/2015/08/01/upgrading-the-large-delta-printer/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Upgrading the large delta printer - Power supply output grounding&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Power supply output grounding&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While taking some measurements on my machine, I discovered that the&#xA;negative side of the output of the 12V LED power supply I am using was&#xA;not connected to ground inside the power supply as I expected. This&#xA;presents a safety hazard. So I added an additional wire from ground to&#xA;the spare negative output terminal of the power supply.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/g8pxQ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/g8pxQ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Correctly grounded power supply&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; Why do I think this? Three reasons:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Because grounding issues is one of the most common, and over-looked, problems, in circuit design;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I have often had peripheral devices, that use a separate &lt;em&gt;additional&lt;/em&gt; power supply, cause a PC laptop to go &amp;quot;haywire&amp;quot; (or worse, die) once connected via RS232/USB (especially charge sensitive devices on the laptop, such as the track pad), due to different, or &lt;em&gt;floating&lt;/em&gt;, grounds, and;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I had recently read the blog and made special note to check all of my power supplies as they are &lt;em&gt;all&lt;/em&gt; terrible, cheap, Chinese knockoffs, and grounding circuits in Thailand are usually &lt;em&gt;non-existant&lt;/em&gt;, or, at best, &lt;em&gt;poorly wired up&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4762" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:29:41.667" LastActivityDate="2017-06-10T17:21:28.663" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4212" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4154" CreationDate="2017-06-10T06:22:05.560" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Servo is best when you primarily provide an exact position to go to, sounds like a human arm isn't it? However, number of positions is sometimes overwhelming.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Think about a painting, is it easier to draw point by point or just throwing the pencil relatively with instincts? That is why you need less computing when using stepper motors because they just step locally without worrying about the overall painting. Having said that, it is more costly for a stepper motor to travel far distances because it has to think about its every step.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7420" LastEditorUserId="7420" LastEditDate="2017-07-26T06:06:37.853" LastActivityDate="2017-07-26T06:06:37.853" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4213" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4214" CreationDate="2017-06-10T08:49:15.687" Score="0" ViewCount="1148" Body="&lt;p&gt;So my printer's calibration got screwed after a sudden reboot and since the current firmware (0.92.6) is licensed, I cannot edit it. So I'm building a new one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These are the controller boards of my printer:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;1. Main controller board:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yKmZT.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yKmZT.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Main controller board&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The black board is a MKS Base v1.3&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other green board beside it has a DC to DC SMPS (HRD12008) on it, along with Z-min, X-min, T0, Fan-, D11 and a flat ribbon wire connector (can be seen in the picture).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other box with an acrylic top is a solid state relay.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;2. Cooling fan and Z-probe PCB:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/locuk.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/locuk.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Hot-end PCB&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The brand on all these boards is &quot;D-force&quot;. I've traced the printer down to a Taiwanese manufacturer: &lt;a href=&quot;http://d-force.tw/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;D-FORCE.TW - 3D Printer&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a few parts available: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.icshop.com.tw/product_info.php/products_id/23999&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Fan &amp;amp; Z-probe PCB&lt;/a&gt;;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://3dprinter.expresstobuy.com/products/d-force-control-board-3d-printer-dforce/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Main controller board&lt;/a&gt;, and;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.icshop.com.tw/product_info.php/products_id/22546&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Servo motor for calibration (Z-probe)&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I haven't been able to find the other green board (with the HRD12008 SMPS on it), yet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've downloaded a new firmware from Repetier website. It can be found here, &lt;a href=&quot;https://drive.google.com/open?id=0Bwypz0ZN4X9RUXBhcjBRVUVDTWM&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Repetier-Firmware-2017-06-09&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, while compiling the firmware, I need to specify the Z-probe pin. I'm unable to do so because it's not plugged into the main board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a close-up of the Z-probe &amp;amp; the servo motor that pins it down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kZPm7.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kZPm7.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Z-probe close-up&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any help would be appreciated here. On the web these printers are known as &quot;D-force printers&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit1&lt;/strong&gt;: I found this on the manufacturer's &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.facebook.com/groups/1587302991497916/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Facebook group&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GTP3a.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GTP3a.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;MKS Base 1.3 schema&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please note that this is v1.1 and my printer has v1.3 although I haven't found any difference between the two, yet. I'll update on that if I find any. Hope this helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit2&lt;/strong&gt;: The Y-min pin on the main controller board is empty. The X-min and Z-min are connected to the X-min and Z-min on the additional green board respectively. Also, there is a T0 on the additional board which is connected to A13 of the main controller.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7285" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2017-06-11T09:20:58.350" LastActivityDate="2017-10-19T06:04:28.460" Title="Building new Repetier firmware for a delta printer (D-force)" Tags="|delta|repetier|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4214" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4213" CreationDate="2017-06-10T09:41:21.007" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You, obviously, do actually have a Z-probe, but in case another user does not, or you decide not to use yours, I will cover both cases (with and without a Z-probe).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Z-probe not present&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If not, then in &lt;code&gt;configuration.h&lt;/code&gt; set the &lt;code&gt;FEATURE_Z_PROBE&lt;/code&gt; to &lt;code&gt;false&lt;/code&gt;, like this: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#define FEATURE_Z_PROBE false&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;or &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#define FEATURE_Z_PROBE 0. &#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then you also need to set &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#define DISTORTION_CORRECTION 0&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;as this requires the &lt;code&gt;FEATURE_Z_PROBE&lt;/code&gt; if otherwise set to &lt;code&gt;1&lt;/code&gt; or &lt;code&gt;true&lt;/code&gt;. &lt;em&gt;However&lt;/em&gt;, thereafter, upon recompilation, I then get a lot of other errors...  but these seem to be more to do with selecting the correct board, &lt;code&gt;#define MOTHERBOARD&lt;/code&gt;, in &lt;code&gt;pins.h&lt;/code&gt;, than the disabling of the Z-probe. This error:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;fastio.h:29: error: 'DIOORIG_FAN2_PIN_WPORT' was not declared in this scope&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;is due to, from &lt;a href=&quot;http://forum.repetier.com/discussion/2444/cant-compile-firmware&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Can't compile firmware&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;You are using &lt;code&gt;ORIG_FAN2_PIN&lt;/code&gt; in your configuration but apparently your boards pin definition does not define that pin. In that case check board description and use the digital pin number instead for that function.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Actually that is not entirely true&lt;/em&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;NOTE&lt;/strong&gt;: It might be easier to just define &lt;code&gt;Z_PROBE_PIN&lt;/code&gt; to something other than &lt;code&gt;-1&lt;/code&gt;, which is what it is defaulting to, as set in &lt;code&gt;configuration.h&lt;/code&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#define Z_PROBE_PIN -1&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Z-probe present&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do have a Z-probe, then trace the wires to see where they go on the controller board, determine that pin number on the board and then enter that pin number into &lt;code&gt;configuration.h&lt;/code&gt;. For example, &lt;em&gt;if&lt;/em&gt; it is connected to pin 63, then:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#define Z_PROBE_PIN 63&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and &lt;code&gt;leave DISTORTION_CORRECTION&lt;/code&gt; untouched.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Where to plug the Z-probe in&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your Z-probe has become unplugged, then you need to choose a pin to connect it to. This is easy... you simply connect it to any free pin. Now, you probably only have three end stops, at the top of the delta frame. These are the MAX end stops. So, you can simply connect the Z-probe to any of the three MIN end stop pins, on the board. Obviously, you will leave the three &lt;code&gt;#define&lt;/code&gt;s for the MIN end stop, in &lt;code&gt;Configuration.h&lt;/code&gt;, un-configured, and then specify the pin, that you did use, in &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#define Z_PROBE_PIN &amp;lt;your pin&amp;gt;&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See &lt;a href=&quot;https://forum.repetier.com/discussion/comment/1950/#Comment_1950&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Is there a complete step by step manual for building Z probe - comment 1950&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Put the zprobe on any free pin you have but do NOT set it in endstops. It is not a endstop it is a zprobe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Then set it in zprobe section with pullup enabled so it is drawn to high internally until you connect the pin with gnd. Then G31 should also be consistent. I guess you missed the pullup part making it a random result.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and &lt;a href=&quot;https://forum.repetier.com/discussion/comment/1952/#Comment_1952&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Is there a complete step by step manual for building Z probe - Comment_1952&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Not sure why this is a problem. You have 6 endstop pins and need 3 for&#xA;  endstops + 1 for zprobe = 4 pins. Still 2 endstop pins free.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;When I said not in endstops I meant not in the endstop configuration.&#xA;  There you only put switches that work as endstop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Highlighting the connections&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The green PCB, for the fan and Z-probe, does not appear to have any logic on it (I can't see any), so it is just a collection of tracks (i.e. wires). As there are no logic chips on it, you can trace the circuit from the Z-probe to the controller (either visually, or using a multimeter set on continuity check). I assume that the PCB is connected to the controller board somewhere/somehow... Via the 10 wire grey ribbon cable that goes to the second green PCB next to the main board, next to LED3, as shown in the first photo? This ribbon cable transfers signals to/from the Z-probe/fan PCB to the secondary PCB, which appears to be a power related PCB (i.e. heaters). Somehow the secondary, power, PCB then connects to the main controller board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of the three unused MINIMUM end stop pins &lt;em&gt;should&lt;/em&gt; be used for the Z-probe. This is assuming that:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;you only have three physical end stops (at the top of the three axes) &lt;em&gt;and&lt;/em&gt;;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;they are connected to the MAXIMUM end stop pins. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have six end stops, (one at the top and one at the bottom), then that changes things drastically. Assuming that you only have three, then the three unused MINIMUM pins will be used for some other purposes (Z-probe, servo arm, something else?).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You need to confirm that you only have end stops at the &lt;em&gt;top&lt;/em&gt; of the printer and not the bottom, i.e. only &lt;code&gt;MAX_ENDSTOP&lt;/code&gt; (or &lt;code&gt;X+&lt;/code&gt;, &lt;code&gt;Y+&lt;/code&gt; and &lt;code&gt;Z+&lt;/code&gt;) pins. If so, then you should have three (sets of) (&lt;code&gt;MIN_ENDSTOP&lt;/code&gt;) pins with nothing connected to them (in theory). So, one of those three &lt;code&gt;MIN_ENDSTOP&lt;/code&gt; pins will have the Z-probe connected to it. If you are having trouble locating the &lt;code&gt;MIN_ENDSTOP&lt;/code&gt; pins, trace where the 3 physical (MAX) end stops are connected to, those will be the &lt;code&gt;MAX_ENDSTOP&lt;/code&gt; pins. Then from that, the &lt;code&gt;MIN_ENDSTOP&lt;/code&gt; pins should be relatively easy to identify. Hopefully that makes sense.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looking at the schema then it becomes obvious. You see &lt;code&gt;X+&lt;/code&gt;, &lt;code&gt;X-&lt;/code&gt;, &lt;code&gt;Y+&lt;/code&gt;, &lt;code&gt;Y-&lt;/code&gt;, &lt;code&gt;Z+&lt;/code&gt; and &lt;code&gt;Z-&lt;/code&gt;. The physical endstops should be connected to the three &lt;code&gt;+&lt;/code&gt; connectors. The three &lt;code&gt;-&lt;/code&gt; connectors: two of them are hopefully not connected. The one that is should be the Z-probe. Looking at the photo, unfortunately, it seems as if all six (or just five?) are populated. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally, to save time, I would get a multimeter, unplug the &lt;code&gt;X&lt;/code&gt;, &lt;code&gt;Y&lt;/code&gt;, &lt;code&gt;Z&lt;/code&gt; &lt;code&gt;+&lt;/code&gt;/&lt;code&gt;-&lt;/code&gt; connectors (actually only the &lt;code&gt;-&lt;/code&gt; connectors) in turn and test each one, to see which is connected to the Z-probe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To check the correct pin is used, you really only have two (sensible) options: either visually, or; multimeter. Multimeter would be best, and the most certain. However, there are two other options open to you (one risky, and one laborious):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;As we have whittled it down to two connectors (&lt;code&gt;X-min&lt;/code&gt; and &lt;code&gt;Z-min&lt;/code&gt;, there are only two pins (for the Z-probe and servo) to worry about, you only have a 50-50 chance of getting it wrong, so you could guess, code it up and see if it works - if it doesn't, then change the pin defined, and recompile...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;IMPORTANT&lt;/strong&gt;: After a rethink, it is best not to just take the 50-50 chance, as the servo pin is probably configured as an &lt;em&gt;output&lt;/em&gt; and the Z-probe pin will be an &lt;em&gt;input&lt;/em&gt;. You could end up &lt;em&gt;damaging the control board&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Finally, you could, in theory, test it programmatically, but that would require writing some test code for the controller, which (as we are having enough trouble as it is with the configuration.h file) would be a nightmare, to put it bluntly.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Schema&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6a6lS.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6a6lS.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Schema highlighting the endstop connectors&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Photo of control board&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4qVYK.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4qVYK.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Photo of control board highlighting the endstop connectors&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is probably a good idea to read this, lengthly, article: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.repetier.com/documentation/repetier-firmware/z-probing/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Repetier - Z-probing&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Footnotes&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; I have finally managed to get &lt;code&gt;Repetier.ino&lt;/code&gt; to compile. The problem lay with the &lt;code&gt;Configuration.h&lt;/code&gt; file that came with the googledrive download, that you provided. Trying to either manually configure &lt;code&gt;Configuration.h&lt;/code&gt;, or pre-loading it into Repetier's configuration tool, always resulted in the same compilation error, see &lt;a href=&quot;https://gr33nonline.wordpress.com/2017/06/12/dioorig_fan2_pin_wport-error/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;DIOORIG_FAN2_PIN_WPORT error&lt;/a&gt;. The simplest solution is to create a &lt;code&gt;Configuration.h&lt;/code&gt; file from &lt;em&gt;new&lt;/em&gt;, using the Configuration tool. When you do that, it will compile ok. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or, if you really want to do it manually, either:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Set &lt;code&gt;NUM_EXTRUDER&lt;/code&gt; to &lt;code&gt;1&lt;/code&gt; and not &lt;code&gt;2&lt;/code&gt; as the &lt;code&gt;FAN2&lt;/code&gt; compile error comes from the second extruder's set of &lt;code&gt;#define&lt;/code&gt;s, or;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;More precisely, if you &lt;em&gt;do&lt;/em&gt; have two extruders, then change the line &lt;code&gt;#define EXT1_EXTRUDER_COOLER_PIN ORIG_FAN2_PIN&lt;/code&gt; and specify a pin, i.e. &lt;code&gt;65&lt;/code&gt;, en lieu of using &lt;code&gt;ORIG_FAN2_PIN&lt;/code&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4762" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2017-06-19T07:20:17.120" LastActivityDate="2017-06-19T07:20:17.120" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4216" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-06-12T01:47:10.257" Score="4" ViewCount="3195" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm near the end of the build of a i3 MK2 clone and have run into a problem with the Z-axis motors. Specifically, the Z-axis will move down (and trigger the endstop) but it will only make a quick noise if I try to move it up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;code&gt;M119&lt;/code&gt; shows all endstops open.  Min software stops are currently disabled, as I try to set the printer up. Using Marlin 1.1.3 with a RAMPS 1.4. Both motors turn and I've even uncoupled the entire X-axis carriage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additional test: reversed the z-axis motor wires and they only go up. Inverted the motor direction in software and they also only go up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any advice? I've definitely done a few searches but haven't solved the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;code&gt;Config.h&lt;/code&gt; is as follows (clipped due to posting restrictions):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;//===========================================================================&#xA;//============================== Endstop Settings ===========================&#xA;//===========================================================================&#xA;&#xA;// @section homing&#xA;&#xA;// Specify here all the endstop connectors that are connected to any endstop or probe.&#xA;// Almost all printers will be using one per axis. Probes will use one or more of the&#xA;// extra connectors. Leave undefined any used for non-endstop and non-probe purposes.&#xA;#define USE_XMIN_PLUG&#xA;#define USE_YMIN_PLUG&#xA;#define USE_ZMIN_PLUG&#xA;//#define USE_XMAX_PLUG&#xA;//#define USE_YMAX_PLUG&#xA;//#define USE_ZMAX_PLUG&#xA;&#xA;// coarse Endstop Settings&#xA;//#define ENDSTOPPULLUPS // Comment this out (using // at the start of the line) to disable the endstop pullup resistors&#xA;&#xA;#if DISABLED(ENDSTOPPULLUPS)&#xA;  // fine endstop settings: Individual pullups. will be ignored if ENDSTOPPULLUPS is defined&#xA;  //#define ENDSTOPPULLUP_XMAX&#xA;  //#define ENDSTOPPULLUP_YMAX&#xA;  //#define ENDSTOPPULLUP_ZMAX&#xA;  //#define ENDSTOPPULLUP_XMIN&#xA;  //#define ENDSTOPPULLUP_YMIN&#xA;  //#define ENDSTOPPULLUP_ZMIN&#xA;  //#define ENDSTOPPULLUP_ZMIN_PROBE&#xA;#endif&#xA;&#xA;// Mechanical endstop with COM to ground and NC to Signal uses &quot;false&quot; here (most common setup).&#xA;#define X_MIN_ENDSTOP_INVERTING true // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.&#xA;#define Y_MIN_ENDSTOP_INVERTING true // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.&#xA;#define Z_MIN_ENDSTOP_INVERTING true // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.&#xA;#define X_MAX_ENDSTOP_INVERTING false // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.&#xA;#define Y_MAX_ENDSTOP_INVERTING false // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.&#xA;#define Z_MAX_ENDSTOP_INVERTING false // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.&#xA;#define Z_MIN_PROBE_ENDSTOP_INVERTING true // set to true to invert the logic of the probe.&#xA;&#xA;// Enable this feature if all enabled endstop pins are interrupt-capable.&#xA;// This will remove the need to poll the interrupt pins, saving many CPU cycles.&#xA;//#define ENDSTOP_INTERRUPTS_FEATURE&#xA;&#xA;//=============================================================================&#xA;//============================== Movement Settings ============================&#xA;//=============================================================================&#xA;// @section motion&#xA;&#xA;/**&#xA; * Default Settings&#xA; *&#xA; * These settings can be reset by M502&#xA; *&#xA; * Note that if EEPROM is enabled, saved values will override these.&#xA; */&#xA;&#xA;/**&#xA; * With this option each E stepper can have its own factors for the&#xA; * following movement settings. If fewer factors are given than the&#xA; * total number of extruders, the last value applies to the rest.&#xA; */&#xA;//#define DISTINCT_E_FACTORS&#xA;&#xA;/**&#xA; * Default Axis Steps Per Unit (steps/mm)&#xA; * Override with M92&#xA; *                                      X, Y, Z, E0 [, E1[, E2[, E3[, E4]]]]&#xA; */&#xA;#define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT   { 100, 100, 4000, 120 }&#xA;&#xA;/**&#xA; * Default Max Feed Rate (mm/s)&#xA; * Override with M203&#xA; *                                      X, Y, Z, E0 [, E1[, E2[, E3[, E4]]]]&#xA; */&#xA;#define DEFAULT_MAX_FEEDRATE          { 200, 200, 3, 25 }&#xA;&#xA;/**&#xA; * Default Max Acceleration (change/s) change = mm/s&#xA; * (Maximum start speed for accelerated moves)&#xA; * Override with M201&#xA; *                                      X, Y, Z, E0 [, E1[, E2[, E3[, E4]]]]&#xA; */&#xA;#define DEFAULT_MAX_ACCELERATION      { 3000, 3000, 100, 10000 }&#xA;&#xA;/**&#xA; * Default Acceleration (change/s) change = mm/s&#xA; * Override with M204&#xA; *&#xA; *   M204 P    Acceleration&#xA; *   M204 R    Retract Acceleration&#xA; *   M204 T    Travel Acceleration&#xA; */&#xA;#define DEFAULT_ACCELERATION          3000    // X, Y, Z and E acceleration for printing moves&#xA;#define DEFAULT_RETRACT_ACCELERATION  3000    // E acceleration for retracts&#xA;#define DEFAULT_TRAVEL_ACCELERATION   3000    // X, Y, Z acceleration for travel (non printing) moves&#xA;&#xA;/**&#xA; * Default Jerk (mm/s)&#xA; * Override with M205 X Y Z E&#xA; *&#xA; * &quot;Jerk&quot; specifies the minimum speed change that requires acceleration.&#xA; * When changing speed and direction, if the difference is less than the&#xA; * value set here, it may happen instantaneously.&#xA; */&#xA;#define DEFAULT_XJERK                 10.0&#xA;#define DEFAULT_YJERK                 10.0&#xA;#define DEFAULT_ZJERK                  0.4&#xA;#define DEFAULT_EJERK                  2.0&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;//===========================================================================&#xA;//============================= Z Probe Options =============================&#xA;//===========================================================================&#xA;// @section probes&#xA;&#xA;//&#xA;// See http://marlinfw.org/configuration/probes.html&#xA;//&#xA;&#xA;/**&#xA; * Z_MIN_PROBE_USES_Z_MIN_ENDSTOP_PIN&#xA; *&#xA; * Enable this option for a probe connected to the Z Min endstop pin.&#xA; */&#xA;#define Z_MIN_PROBE_USES_Z_MIN_ENDSTOP_PIN&#xA;&#xA;/**&#xA; * Z_MIN_PROBE_ENDSTOP&#xA; *&#xA; * Enable this option for a probe connected to any pin except Z-Min.&#xA; * (By default Marlin assumes the Z-Max endstop pin.)&#xA; * To use a custom Z Probe pin, set Z_MIN_PROBE_PIN below.&#xA; *&#xA; *  - The simplest option is to use a free endstop connector.&#xA; *  - Use 5V for powered (usually inductive) sensors.&#xA; *&#xA; *  - RAMPS 1.3/1.4 boards may use the 5V, GND, and Aux4-&amp;gt;D32 pin:&#xA; *    - For simple switches connect...&#xA; *      - normally-closed switches to GND and D32.&#xA; *      - normally-open switches to 5V and D32.&#xA; *&#xA; * WARNING: Setting the wrong pin may have unexpected and potentially&#xA; * disastrous consequences. Use with caution and do your homework.&#xA; *&#xA; */&#xA;//#define Z_MIN_PROBE_ENDSTOP&#xA;//#define Z_MIN_PROBE_PIN Z_MAX_PIN&#xA;&#xA;/**&#xA; * Probe Type&#xA; *&#xA; * Allen Key Probes, Servo Probes, Z-Sled Probes, FIX_MOUNTED_PROBE, etc.&#xA; * You must activate one of these to use Auto Bed Leveling below.&#xA; */&#xA;&#xA;/**&#xA; * The &quot;Manual Probe&quot; provides a means to do &quot;Auto&quot; Bed Leveling without a probe.&#xA; * Use G29 repeatedly, adjusting the Z height at each point with movement commands&#xA; * or (with LCD_BED_LEVELING) the LCD controller.&#xA; */&#xA;//#define PROBE_MANUALLY&#xA;&#xA;/**&#xA; * A Fix-Mounted Probe either doesn't deploy or needs manual deployment.&#xA; *   (e.g., an inductive probe or a nozzle-based probe-switch.)&#xA; */&#xA;#define FIX_MOUNTED_PROBE&#xA;&#xA;/**&#xA; * Z Servo Probe, such as an endstop switch on a rotating arm.&#xA; */&#xA;//#define Z_ENDSTOP_SERVO_NR 0   // Defaults to SERVO 0 connector.&#xA;//#define Z_SERVO_ANGLES {70,0}  // Z Servo Deploy and Stow angles&#xA;&#xA;/**&#xA; * The BLTouch probe uses a Hall effect sensor and emulates a servo.&#xA; */&#xA;//#define BLTOUCH&#xA;#if ENABLED(BLTOUCH)&#xA;  //#define BLTOUCH_DELAY 375   // (ms) Enable and increase if needed&#xA;#endif&#xA;&#xA;/**&#xA; * Enable if probing seems unreliable. Heaters and/or fans - consistent with the&#xA; * options selected below - will be disabled during probing so as to minimize&#xA; * potential EM interference by quieting/silencing the source of the 'noise' (the change&#xA; * in current flowing through the wires).  This is likely most useful to users of the&#xA; * BLTouch probe, but may also help those with inductive or other probe types.&#xA; */&#xA;//#define PROBING_HEATERS_OFF       // Turn heaters off when probing&#xA;//#define PROBING_FANS_OFF          // Turn fans off when probing&#xA;&#xA;// A probe that is deployed and stowed with a solenoid pin (SOL1_PIN)&#xA;//#define SOLENOID_PROBE&#xA;&#xA;// A sled-mounted probe like those designed by Charles Bell.&#xA;//#define Z_PROBE_SLED&#xA;//#define SLED_DOCKING_OFFSET 5  // The extra distance the X axis must travel to pickup the sled. 0 should be fine but you can push it further if you'd like.&#xA;&#xA;//&#xA;// For Z_PROBE_ALLEN_KEY see the Delta example configurations.&#xA;//&#xA;&#xA;/**&#xA; *   Z Probe to nozzle (X,Y) offset, relative to (0, 0).&#xA; *   X and Y offsets must be integers.&#xA; *&#xA; *   In the following example the X and Y offsets are both positive:&#xA; *   #define X_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER 10&#xA; *   #define Y_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER 10&#xA; *&#xA; *      +-- BACK ---+&#xA; *      |           |&#xA; *    L |    (+) P  | R &amp;lt;-- probe (20,20)&#xA; *    E |           | I&#xA; *    F | (-) N (+) | G &amp;lt;-- nozzle (10,10)&#xA; *    T |           | H&#xA; *      |    (-)    | T&#xA; *      |           |&#xA; *      O-- FRONT --+&#xA; *    (0,0)&#xA; */&#xA;#define X_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER 22  // X offset: -left  +right  [of the nozzle]&#xA;#define Y_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER 12  // Y offset: -front +behind [the nozzle]&#xA;#define Z_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER 0   // Z offset: -below +above  [the nozzle]&#xA;&#xA;// X and Y axis travel speed (mm/m) between probes&#xA;#define XY_PROBE_SPEED 8000&#xA;&#xA;// Speed for the first approach when double-probing (with PROBE_DOUBLE_TOUCH)&#xA;#define Z_PROBE_SPEED_FAST HOMING_FEEDRATE_Z&#xA;&#xA;// Speed for the &quot;accurate&quot; probe of each point&#xA;#define Z_PROBE_SPEED_SLOW (Z_PROBE_SPEED_FAST / 2)&#xA;&#xA;// Use double touch for probing&#xA;//#define PROBE_DOUBLE_TOUCH&#xA;&#xA;/**&#xA; * Z probes require clearance when deploying, stowing, and moving between&#xA; * probe points to avoid hitting the bed and other hardware.&#xA; * Servo-mounted probes require extra space for the arm to rotate.&#xA; * Inductive probes need space to keep from triggering early.&#xA; *&#xA; * Use these settings to specify the distance (mm) to raise the probe (or&#xA; * lower the bed). The values set here apply over and above any (negative)&#xA; * probe Z Offset set with Z_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER, M851, or the LCD.&#xA; * Only integer values &amp;gt;= 1 are valid here.&#xA; *&#xA; * Example: `M851 Z-5` with a CLEARANCE of 4  =&amp;gt;  9mm from bed to nozzle.&#xA; *     But: `M851 Z+1` with a CLEARANCE of 2  =&amp;gt;  2mm from bed to nozzle.&#xA; */&#xA;#define Z_CLEARANCE_DEPLOY_PROBE   10 // Z Clearance for Deploy/Stow&#xA;#define Z_CLEARANCE_BETWEEN_PROBES  5 // Z Clearance between probe points&#xA;&#xA;// For M851 give a range for adjusting the Z probe offset&#xA;#define Z_PROBE_OFFSET_RANGE_MIN -20&#xA;#define Z_PROBE_OFFSET_RANGE_MAX 20&#xA;&#xA;// Enable the M48 repeatability test to test probe accuracy&#xA;//#define Z_MIN_PROBE_REPEATABILITY_TEST&#xA;&#xA;// For Inverting Stepper Enable Pins (Active Low) use 0, Non Inverting (Active High) use 1&#xA;// :{ 0:'Low', 1:'High' }&#xA;#define X_ENABLE_ON 0&#xA;#define Y_ENABLE_ON 0&#xA;#define Z_ENABLE_ON 0&#xA;#define E_ENABLE_ON 0 // For all extruders&#xA;&#xA;// Disables axis stepper immediately when it's not being used.&#xA;// WARNING: When motors turn off there is a chance of losing position accuracy!&#xA;#define DISABLE_X false&#xA;#define DISABLE_Y false&#xA;#define DISABLE_Z false&#xA;// Warn on display about possibly reduced accuracy&#xA;//#define DISABLE_REDUCED_ACCURACY_WARNING&#xA;&#xA;// @section extruder&#xA;&#xA;#define DISABLE_E false // For all extruders&#xA;#define DISABLE_INACTIVE_EXTRUDER true // Keep only the active extruder enabled.&#xA;&#xA;// @section machine&#xA;&#xA;// Invert the stepper direction. Change (or reverse the motor connector) if an axis goes the wrong way.&#xA;#define INVERT_X_DIR false&#xA;#define INVERT_Y_DIR false&#xA;#define INVERT_Z_DIR false&#xA;&#xA;// Enable this option for Toshiba stepper drivers&#xA;//#define CONFIG_STEPPERS_TOSHIBA&#xA;&#xA;// @section extruder&#xA;&#xA;// For direct drive extruder v9 set to true, for geared extruder set to false.&#xA;#define INVERT_E0_DIR false&#xA;#define INVERT_E1_DIR false&#xA;#define INVERT_E2_DIR false&#xA;#define INVERT_E3_DIR false&#xA;#define INVERT_E4_DIR false&#xA;&#xA;// @section homing&#xA;&#xA;//#define Z_HOMING_HEIGHT 4  // (in mm) Minimal z height before homing (G28) for Z clearance above the bed, clamps, ...&#xA;                             // Be sure you have this distance over your Z_MAX_POS in case.&#xA;&#xA;// Direction of endstops when homing; 1=MAX, -1=MIN&#xA;// :[-1,1]&#xA;#define X_HOME_DIR -1&#xA;#define Y_HOME_DIR -1&#xA;#define Z_HOME_DIR -1&#xA;&#xA;// @section machine&#xA;&#xA;// Travel limits after homing (units are in mm)&#xA;#define X_MIN_POS 0&#xA;#define Y_MIN_POS 0&#xA;#define Z_MIN_POS 0&#xA;#define X_MAX_POS 230&#xA;#define Y_MAX_POS 200&#xA;#define Z_MAX_POS 200&#xA;&#xA;// If enabled, axes won't move below MIN_POS in response to movement commands.&#xA;//#define MIN_SOFTWARE_ENDSTOPS&#xA;// If enabled, axes won't move above MAX_POS in response to movement commands.&#xA;//#define MAX_SOFTWARE_ENDSTOPS&#xA;&#xA;/**&#xA; * Filament Runout Sensor&#xA; * A mechanical or opto endstop is used to check for the presence of filament.&#xA; *&#xA; * RAMPS-based boards use SERVO3_PIN.&#xA; * For other boards you may need to define FIL_RUNOUT_PIN.&#xA; * By default the firmware assumes HIGH = has filament, LOW = ran out&#xA; */&#xA;//#define FILAMENT_RUNOUT_SENSOR&#xA;#if ENABLED(FILAMENT_RUNOUT_SENSOR)&#xA;  #define FIL_RUNOUT_INVERTING false // set to true to invert the logic of the sensor.&#xA;  #define ENDSTOPPULLUP_FIL_RUNOUT // Uncomment to use internal pullup for filament runout pins if the sensor is defined.&#xA;  #define FILAMENT_RUNOUT_SCRIPT &quot;M600&quot;&#xA;#endif&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7436" LastEditorUserId="7436" LastEditDate="2017-06-12T02:58:21.607" LastActivityDate="2017-06-15T03:35:47.680" Title="Z-axis not moving up" Tags="|prusa-i3|marlin|z-axis|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4217" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4216" CreationDate="2017-06-12T03:00:58.573" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;This sounds similar to &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/4158/prusa-i3-z-axis-only-goes-down-even-on-up-command&quot;&gt;Prusa i3 Z axis only goes down (even on up command)&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/4090/my-prusa-i3s-z-axis-will-only-go-up&quot;&gt;My Prusa i3's z-axis will only go up&lt;/a&gt;. Please check the answers to those questions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The usual cause of your problem is that you need to:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;install/configure the end stops, and;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;home the Z-axis.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You say that you have already installed ad configured the end stops. Have you homed it yet, though?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, check your wiring first as it could just be a simple case of a loose or misplaced connection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, something else to consider, if your stepper is making a grunting noise, and trying to move but can not, then maybe your stepper driver is &lt;em&gt;not supplying enough current&lt;/em&gt;, or maybe &lt;em&gt;too much&lt;/em&gt;. See &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/3134/extruder-stepper-motor-problem-what-can-be-wrong/3136#3136&quot;&gt;my answer&lt;/a&gt; to &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/3134/extruder-stepper-motor-problem-what-can-be-wrong/&quot;&gt;Extruder stepper motor problem, what can be wrong?&lt;/a&gt;. Yes, the answer is for an extruder, but all steppers drivers can suffer the same mis-configuration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4762" LastActivityDate="2017-06-12T03:00:58.573" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4218" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="409" CreationDate="2017-06-12T15:49:25.287" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Three great answers have already been posted, and it has been extremely interesting to read them. I shall try not to repeated what has already been said.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have sourced the parts &lt;em&gt;separately&lt;/em&gt; for three different printers:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;P3Steel (the frame was a kit, mind: &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/3312/orientation-of-long-thin-rod-on-p3steel-v4&quot;&gt;Orientation of long thin rod on P3Steel v4&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wilson II&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Kossel XL and Mini&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have been coding Arduinos and Pis and building robots and quadcopters for a few years now. Then, in November 2016, because I needed a prop guard for a ZMR250 quadcopter that I found hard to obtain, but easy to print, I started reading about 3D printers (mostly RepRap wiki, and then individual blogs of straight forward builds, as well as design modifications, of Prusa, P3Steel, Wilson and Delta/Kossel printers), watching countless construction videos and asking questions here on SE 3D Printers, and reading other's questions and answers, as well as going through eBay for hours at a time, looking up parts and making numerous Bill Of Materials (BOMs) and blogging the information that I gleaned. So this gave me a good grounding and starting point for when I did get around to ordering. In fact, the process is still on going...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After ordering the parts, in December, piecemeal, I then had to wait for a month for the parts to arrive from China, during which time I read some more, and revised what I had already learned.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I then, finally, got to work on the P3Steel, in January, but two and a half weeks later, before I had finished it, I had to move to BKK for an extended period.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suffered delays with the P3Steel build due to postal latency, obviously, but also, some partial kits where missing critical parts (see &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/3332/is-the-8mm-x-20mm-bearing-axle-for-the-x-axis-idler-of-a-p3steel-a-custom-part&quot;&gt;Is the 8mm x 20mm bearing axle for the X-axis idler (of a P3Steel) a custom part?&lt;/a&gt;), so I had to get them machined in Thailand (because it only costs around $3 to get something machined here). Hopefully, when I get back to the UK, I should have everything to hand and be able to finish the build in a few weeks maximum&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once in Bangkok, I started sourcing parts for a Wilson II, and then, subsequently, a Kossel, mostly because the aluminium and steel rods are a quarter, to a half, the price that they are in Europe. Also, I had to go through the ordering process again, getting parts from China for these two printers - however, the parts from China only take two weeks to arrive to Thailand, not a month or so, for the UK. The Wilson II parts I plan to take back to the UK, in order to complete the build there, hopefully printing the plastic parts on the P3Steel, when/if the P3Steel is completed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note, that seven, or eight months, down the line from when I first took an interest in 3D printing, I &lt;em&gt;still&lt;/em&gt; haven't completed a single printer, yet. However, I sure as hell have learnt a lot. Note: most of the delay is due to the six month relocation away from my printer build in the UK.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, due to my reading of the modification blogs for the Wilson and Kossel, I have recently been re-purchasing upgrades, before I have even fitted a bolt together, for the Kossel and Wilson, let alone completed either of the base builds. For example, I have just purchased Chinese aluminium vertices, rather than the plastic PLA prints that I got from Sintron. So I have ended up with a fair collection of spare (redundant?) parts, but again, it has helped me gain a great insight as to what works well, and what does not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To reiterate that which &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/409/what-are-the-pros-and-cons-of-collecting-parts-yourself-versus-getting-a-diy-ki#answer-415&quot;&gt;TestGeek has said&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;em&gt;one major tip&lt;/em&gt; I would have is (and I read this on a forum when I was first getting into 3D printer building), if you are sourcing the parts separately, is to buy bulk (get packs of 10 pcs, 50 pcs, 100 pcs), and buy more than you require: nuts, bolts, bearings, GT2 belt, GT2 pulleys. The price comes down phenomenally, and you can resell the spares, locally, for about as much as you paid for the whole lot, online, thereby covering, or almost covering, the cost of the printer. Plus, spares come in handy for further builds down the road. Don't buy anything from the US (unless you are already in the US, I guess) - the import/postage fees are outrageous.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;TL;DR&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the same way as you learn more from building a kit as opposed to buying a pre-built printer, you will learn more sourcing the parts separately, but it might cost more, in redundant parts. Also:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Research extensively first&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Buy bulk&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Be prepared for delays, be patient&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Be prepared for an iterative design&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4762" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:29:41.667" LastActivityDate="2017-06-12T16:39:59.263" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4219" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4216" CreationDate="2017-06-12T15:51:40.380" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the carriage is moving in one direction but not the other is seems like a stepper driver problem to me. Or possibly a electrical contact problem as the stepper drvers have one pin each (pin DIR) to control the direction of the stepper. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Have you tried to change the drivers on your RAMPS 1.4? I suggest you temporarily change the stepper driver with an axis you know functions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7431" LastActivityDate="2017-06-12T15:51:40.380" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4220" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-06-12T16:00:42.393" Score="7" ViewCount="20442" Body="&lt;p&gt;I got an Anet A8 and want to build an enclosure for it. Since I'm currently only printing PLA, I would do it mainly for noise cancelling, because I have to run it in my room. I however want to have the possibility to upgrade it later with, say, an air filter etc., for example for ABS.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What do I have to pay attention to? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do I need ventilation slits? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Would you put the filament inside or run it through a small hole from the top? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Any tips for making it especially noise cancelling? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is wood the right material?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7440" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2017-06-13T05:19:52.427" LastActivityDate="2018-04-13T09:53:52.123" Title="Enclosure, things to pay attention to?" Tags="|enclosure|ventilation|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4221" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4220" CreationDate="2017-06-12T16:43:01.193" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;For ABS, if you are using an air filter, you do NOT want ventilation, because ABS prints are better quality if the ambient temperature is up at 50°C (or even warmer), and ventilation will reduce your chamber temperature. Whatever has been helping for noise cancelling now should work in the future.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4922" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2017-06-13T05:26:51.130" LastActivityDate="2017-06-13T05:26:51.130" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4222" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4220" CreationDate="2017-06-12T19:57:07.543" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Make sure and pay attention to safety.&lt;/strong&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have heard of more than one report of a RepRap printer going up in flames.  On example of that is if the thermistor fails, or gets disconnected, and the controller puts the bed, or extruder, into thermal runaway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Make you make the enclosure out of a non-combustible material, so you don't add any fuel to the fire.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6417" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2017-06-16T13:24:40.093" LastActivityDate="2017-06-16T13:24:40.093" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4223" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4220" CreationDate="2017-06-13T05:17:16.457" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sort of related, see the answers to:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/3771/commercially-available-3d-printer-fume-and-ufp-extractor&quot;&gt;Commercially available 3D printer fume and UFP extractor&lt;/a&gt;, and;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/513/what-are-the-best-air-filtration-options-for-enclosures&quot;&gt;What are the best air filtration options for enclosures?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Addressing your points in turn:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Ventilation&lt;/strong&gt; - Probably not, as you want to keep the print warm. However, when printing with filaments where well ventilated conditions are recommended&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;, to prevent the build up of noxious fumes, from ABS for example, you would need (active) filtration, see &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/3771/commercially-available-3d-printer-fume-and-ufp-extractor/4125#4125&quot;&gt;this answer&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Filament Placement&lt;/strong&gt; - I have seen printers fully enclosed, including the filament. However, there is the potential issue, especially if using PLA, that if the temperature inside the enclosure reaches temperatures approaching those of a closed car, on a hot day, then the PLA filament could become damaged/melt, and not roll of the spool correctly. In that case, you could place the reel on to of the enclosure and feed it through a (small) hole in the top. Feeding it through the side, &lt;em&gt;could&lt;/em&gt; add additional resistance to it being pulled from the reel, depending upon placement.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Noise cancellation&lt;/strong&gt; - Line the enclosure with &lt;em&gt;non-flammable&lt;/em&gt; foam, or some other &lt;em&gt;non-flammable&lt;/em&gt; noise cancelling lining&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Material&lt;/strong&gt; - As Mark states in &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/4220/enclosure-things-to-pay-attention-to#answer-4222&quot;&gt;his answer&lt;/a&gt;, be extra careful of thermal runaway, as 3D printers run hot, and an enclosed printer, even hotter. Wood is the sort of material you probably &lt;em&gt;want to avoid&lt;/em&gt;. Whilst it is cheap, and would probably work fine in most situations, in the case of an emergency (read, &lt;em&gt;fire&lt;/em&gt;), then you are merely providing additional combustable material. It would be advisable to stick with an aluminium frame (non-combustable) and glass (non-combustable and insulating).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additonal Points:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Electronics&lt;/strong&gt; - You may want to consider placing the electronics (i.e. controller board) outside the enclosure, as the RAMPS board generally likes to be kept as cool as possible (especially the stepper drivers).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Display/Control&lt;/strong&gt; - Along with the electronics, it could be a good idea to also place the LCD display, and conjoint control panel, outside the enclosure, so as to provide ease of access. You don't really want to have to keep removing/opening the enclosure to change a minor setting.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Access&lt;/strong&gt; - Do you want a &lt;em&gt;lift-off&lt;/em&gt; type enclosure, or have an access door? The latter is certainly more user friendly, or convenient.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Sturdiness&lt;/strong&gt; - Do you want a light weight (flimsy?) enclosure, or a heavier, more robust, enclosure?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Safety&lt;/strong&gt; - An air-tight fire box could be worth considering.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: After having stated that wood is not the best idea, it seems that IKEA tables are sometimes used, by stacking two on top of each other: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.3ders.org/articles/20150726-new-ikea-hack-lets-you-create-a-3d-printer-enclosure-for-cheap.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;New IKEA hack lets you create a 3D printer enclosure for cheap&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WYd4q.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WYd4q.png&quot; alt=&quot;IKEA table&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lBkWI.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lBkWI.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Enclosed Prusa i3 printer&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A safer bet is this delta printer enclosure, which is, essentially, a larger delta frame, made from aluminium extrusion and acrylic, enclosing a smaller delta printer:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://pinshape.com/blog/build-your-own-3d-printer-enclosure/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;4 Simple Steps to Build Your Own 3D Printer Enclosure&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0g4gg.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0g4gg.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Enclosed delta printer&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For an example of a cheap, yet extremely flammable enclosure, made from plastic sheeting and piping, see &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.matterhackers.com/news/how-to-build-a-3d-printer-enclosure&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;How to build an enclosure for your 3D printer&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/o87Je.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/o87Je.png&quot; alt=&quot;Plastic printer enclosure&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; See Davo's &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/4220/enclosure-things-to-pay-attention-to/4223#comment5920_4221&quot;&gt;comment&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4762" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2017-06-23T12:58:43.197" LastActivityDate="2017-06-23T12:58:43.197" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4224" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4226" CreationDate="2017-06-13T07:24:13.320" Score="7" ViewCount="2489" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Tronxy X3 (i3 Clone) running Repetier firmware on a Melzi board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would like to share the printer over my home network so that:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Both my boys and I can use the printer. (We have separate Windows 10 PCs)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I can initiate a print from my computer upstairs&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I can monitor the print progress remotely&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have (and could use)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A RAMPS board set that I could use to run Marlin.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A Raspberrry Pi 1B &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;An idle laptop I (might) be willing to use&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I want to know:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Are you sharing your printer on a network, and if so, how long&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What Hardware and Software are you using&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What do you like most&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What do you find most annoying&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What do you want to change&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What is the interface (web interface, print driver, etc.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What services are provided (printing, slicing, monitoring, etc.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Can two computers access it at the same time&#xA;Ex: To monitor, or still print if my sons forgot to disconnect&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What sort of monitoring is supported? Ex: camera?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What runs the print job (G-code)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6417" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2018-07-08T14:42:49.873" LastActivityDate="2024-01-04T21:00:22.877" Title="Sharing a printer over a network" Tags="|software|reprap|tronxy-x3|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4225" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4658" CreationDate="2017-06-13T08:11:08.787" Score="4" ViewCount="521" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sometimes I notice that if I manually command a single axis movement (typically Z, when I want better access to the extruder), I observe that several channels move together (and they maybe move slower than I expect). After one 'coupled' movement, subsequent commands have the result I'm expecting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What happens is as well as the Z-axis moving up, the bed moves forward, and the extruder moves to the right. I have no auto-leveling or anything else non-standard on this printer (dual Z steppers, X, Y, extruder, bed, extruder heat).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It even happens if I simply extrude some of the time (e.g. changing filament after warming up, retract gave me some X movement)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Printer is an ANET-A8, I'm using mainly OctoPrint, but I think I've also observed this with other PC software manual controls.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It doesn't happen often enough for me to have identified any pattern - maybe it only happens if I've not homed first after turning the printer on, but I suspect not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's not so much of a problem, as just a question for interest. Also not sure how to tag.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4927" LastEditorUserId="4927" LastEditDate="2017-06-13T08:17:23.017" LastActivityDate="2017-09-25T18:27:15.957" Title="Lack of isolation between axes" Tags="|software|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4226" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4224" CreationDate="2017-06-13T08:16:03.850" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;NOTE&lt;/strong&gt;: This is not from personal experience, but I thought it was worth mentioning:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Microsoft&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You've probably seen this already - I am not a fan at all of M$, but... &lt;a href=&quot;https://all3dp.com/microsoft-network-3d-printer/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Microsoft Plus Raspberry Pi Equals Network 3D Printer&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is another link to the same, &lt;a href=&quot;https://developer.microsoft.com/en-us/windows/iot/docs/3dprintserver&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Network 3D Printer with Windows 10 IoT Core&lt;/a&gt;, but, unfortunately, your printer is apparently &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; supported.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;OctoPi&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, closed source M$ seem to be playing catch up, whilst the Open Source &lt;a href=&quot;https://octopi.octoprint.org/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;OctoPi&lt;/a&gt; has been about for a while, indeed there have been a &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/search?q=octopi&quot;&gt;few questions on SE 3D Printing&lt;/a&gt; about it. From the blurb:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;OctoPi is a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.raspberrypi.org/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Raspberry Pi&lt;/a&gt; distribution for 3d printers. Out of the box it includes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;the &lt;a href=&quot;http://octoprint.org/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;OctoPrint&lt;/a&gt; host software including all its dependencies and preconfigured with webcam and slicing support,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/jacksonliam/mjpg-streamer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;mjpg-streamer&lt;/a&gt; for live viewing of prints and timelapse video creation with support for USB webcams and the Raspberry Pi camera and&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/Ultimaker/CuraEngine&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;CuraEngine 15.04&lt;/a&gt; for direct slicing on your Raspberry Pi.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See &lt;a href=&quot;https://makerhacks.com/octoprint-raspberrypi-3dprinter/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;How to Install and Set Up Octopi for Remote Raspberry Pi 3D Printer Control with Octoprint&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A few of its features:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It also supports monitoring via a camera.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The G-code is sent over the serial to the printer.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You can use OctoPi to control multiple printers as well, as it isn't particularly resource intensive, see &lt;a href=&quot;http://blog.patshead.com/2016/02/control-multiple-3d-printers-using-a-single-raspberry-pi-with-octoprint.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Control Multiple 3D Printers Using A Single Raspberry Pi and Octoprint&lt;/a&gt;].&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You can &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/foosel/OctoPrint/wiki/Configuring-Access-Control&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;configure access control&lt;/a&gt; for multiple users, or for a better presented version, see &lt;a href=&quot;http://docs.octoprint.org/en/master/features/accesscontrol.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Access control&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As an aside, you could put Pronterface on the Pi too: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-Control-a-3D-Printer-Via-Raspbery-Pi2/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;How to Install Pronterface on Raspberry Pi - Instructables&lt;/a&gt;. I wasn't aware of this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4762" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:29:41.667" LastActivityDate="2017-06-13T11:05:50.903" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4227" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-06-13T13:58:09.573" Score="5" ViewCount="5249" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am having a strange intermittent printing error specific to one particular object I'm trying to print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/L7Sxz.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/L7Sxz.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;A picture of my print error&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My printer is a BCN3D Sigma R17. I am printing a thin wall (0.6mm) cup object. I'm using:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Simplify3D with Sigma Progen profiles&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;0.6mm brass nozzle (w/thermal paste)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;0.1mm layer height&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Spiral (vase mode)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Filaform PLA.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you can see in the images, the first few layers print ok, but then the nozzle seems to collide/penetrate the previous layer and grinds against it as it moves around in a circle. The result is a combination of rough textured surface and good quality surface. One half of the print also seems to be thicker, presumably from the increased extrusion width caused by squashing layers in the z-axis. I’ve tried&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;changing model's wall thickness,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;disabling spiral mode&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;increasing layer height&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;changing filament&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;upgrading printer (latest stepper drivers)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;changing extrusion width&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;performing full calibration&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All without success. You can view the gcode and S3D fff profile here:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/0B6SnaYyiYI7vcGU1U3Uxb0RrX3M?usp=sharing&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/0B6SnaYyiYI7vcGU1U3Uxb0RrX3M?usp=sharing&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The image shows some filament left hanging from a stopped print. It seemed to be squeezed out from excess pressure, as if it was being blocked during the print due to being pushed against the layers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7451" LastActivityDate="2018-03-30T15:01:48.020" Title="Troubleshooting printing layer squashing?" Tags="|fdm|troubleshooting|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4228" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4232" CreationDate="2017-06-13T15:46:32.617" Score="2" ViewCount="1306" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am writing a G-code sender for Android, but I have hit a snag.&#xA;How can I prevent the phone from discharging while it sending G-code to the printer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have several Android phones and tablets and they have a micro USB OTG connector, which I can connect to my 3D printer using an adapter.&#xA;But it looks like OTG has this limitation - it can either accept power when in &lt;em&gt;Device&lt;/em&gt; mode, or it can provide power in &lt;em&gt;Host&lt;/em&gt; mode.  So, while in &lt;em&gt;Host&lt;/em&gt; mode the phone can't be charged, so I can't do long prints, which seems like an unreasonable limitation.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas on how to solve this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7455" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2017-06-16T14:56:04.533" LastActivityDate="2017-06-16T14:56:04.533" Title="How can I charge an Android phone while it's controlling my 3D printer?" Tags="|g-code|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4229" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1247" CreationDate="2017-06-13T17:32:49.013" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just came up with my own solution before I read this discussion. (Monoprice Select v2.1 - Wanhao i3 Clone).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I ~think~ I have a Mk8 hotend. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had some silicon rubber sheet (about 1.4mm thick) which started life as a cookie sheet, but I gave it a new purpose in life, LOL. &#xA;I cut two pieces to length to wrap around the hotend, and made a double thick sandwich.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I then used adhesive backed aluminum ducting tape* (SEE EDIT BELOW!!) (NOT duct tape, ALUMINIUM tape) and wrapped the sheets in it, then used needle nose pliers to shape it to fit the heater block. The aluminium tape helps it hold shape. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I used 3M 468MP to tape it to the hotend, as I currently have no kapton tape.&#xA;Just did this today, if I have adhesion issues I'll TRY to remember to report back here. :) If it does pops loose, I'll use a bit of stiff wire twisted around to support it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT&lt;/strong&gt;: Welllll ... sometimes one gets too clever for their own good! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;USING THE ALUMINIUM TAPE IS NOT A GOOD SOLUTION, DON'T DO IT!!!&lt;/strong&gt; It seems the adhesive on that tape emits noxious, and perhaps POISONOUS fumes when heated! I had to vent the room to the outside for a couple hours with dual fans and the hotend at temp to clear the air! Ooops. LOL &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's good now, it baked off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The idea DID work&lt;/strong&gt;, and I'm sure would be fine if you use regular heavy duty aluminium foil. Be sure to mount it with the seam on the INSIDE and the 3M tape should hold it closed just fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7456" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2017-06-14T13:20:05.950" LastActivityDate="2017-06-14T13:20:05.950" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4230" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-06-13T17:46:53.657" Score="3" ViewCount="970" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have Anet A8 where I have changed the controller from the original to RAMPS 1.4 running Marlin 1.1.1 and ran into some strange issues with my Z axis.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Doing calibration (10&amp;nbsp;mm cube, 10x10x20&amp;nbsp;mm, 10x10x30&amp;nbsp;mm) I am dead on the mm on the Z axis. (10&amp;nbsp;mm, 20&amp;nbsp;mm, 30&amp;nbsp;mm)&#xA;But when I print a part that is supposed to be 24&amp;nbsp;mm high, it comes out 27&amp;nbsp;mm high.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Went back to print calibration 10x10x30, and Z axis is dead on 30&amp;nbsp;mm again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also printed a bracket that was supposed to be 240&amp;nbsp;mm high, ended up close to 270&amp;nbsp;mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am doing the same layer heights for all the prints (calibration cubes and otherwise). Starting with a 0.2&amp;nbsp;mm first layer and then 0.1&amp;nbsp;mm on all other layers. Using RepetierHost v. 1.6.2 with Slic3r v. 1.2.9&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyone experienced something like this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7458" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-05-24T12:34:39.257" LastActivityDate="2018-05-24T12:34:39.257" Title="Z axis OK during calibration, but WAY off on prints" Tags="|calibration|z-axis|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4231" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="505" CreationDate="2017-06-13T20:54:44.083" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have used glass from the beginning and it works perfect.&#xA;(From old picture frame and old scanner)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have tried glass with tape,&#xA;glass with hairspray and have had very good luck on printing on both.&#xA;Prefer hairspray :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have tried printing on the heated aluminum, but experienced the aluminum plate tend to warp due to temperature changes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With a glass plate on top of the aluminum, you have a flat surface that don't warp. :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I would give glass thumps up!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: Printed on Glass with glue-stick. Wow. Sticks really good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7458" LastEditorUserId="7458" LastEditDate="2017-06-16T21:42:04.400" LastActivityDate="2017-06-16T21:42:04.400" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4232" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4228" CreationDate="2017-06-14T04:06:15.990" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;See &lt;em&gt;elsewhere&lt;/em&gt; on StackExchange:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Electronics:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/34741/can-an-android-tablet-serve-as-usb-host-and-be-charged-simultaneously-through-a&quot;&gt;Can an Android tablet serve as USB Host and be charged simultaneously through a single port?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Android Enthusiasts&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://android.stackexchange.com/questions/34227/using-an-otg-cable-while-charging&quot;&gt;Using an OTG cable while charging&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://android.stackexchange.com/questions/28745/usb-charging-in-host-mode&quot;&gt;USB charging in host mode [duplicate]&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You certainly can charge whilst in host mode, but some re-wiring will be required.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the SE.Electronics &lt;a href=&quot;https://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/34741/can-an-android-tablet-serve-as-usb-host-and-be-charged-simultaneously-through-a&quot;&gt;link&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Apparently it is possible to charge the Host-Device! --&gt;&#xA;  &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/USB_On-The-Go&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/USB_On-The-Go&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Under &quot;OTG Micro Plugs&quot; it says that a USB OTG cable with a 36.5 kΩ&#xA;  resistor between Pin 4 (I suppose its pin 4) and Pin 5 allows you to&#xA;  connect a B-Device (Slave) and (!) a Charger to the Smartphone/Tablet.&#xA;  The Phone and the B-Device can be supplied by the external power&#xA;  source.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;USB-Power Specifications:&#xA;  &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.usb.org/developers/devclass_docs/batt_charging_1_1.zip&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.usb.org/developers/devclass_docs/batt_charging_1_1.zip&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I just sifted through the docs because I didn't trust Wikipedia's implicit data on which of the three resistances I should use. Here you can find the official &lt;code&gt;Battery Charging v1.2 Spec and Adopters Agreement&lt;/code&gt;: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.usb.org/developers/docs/devclass_docs/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;usb.org/developers/docs/devclass_docs&lt;/a&gt; In this case you want 124kΩ, because you want the OTG device (=tablet) to be the A device (=host). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are the schematics:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Uty2y.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Uty2y.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Post schema&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4762" LastActivityDate="2017-06-14T04:06:15.990" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4233" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1247" CreationDate="2017-06-14T13:19:05.060" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;After having seen &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/4026/how-can-i-insulate-my-thermistor/4035#4035&quot;&gt;this answer&lt;/a&gt; to this question, &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/4026/how-can-i-insulate-my-thermistor&quot;&gt;How can I insulate my thermistor?&lt;/a&gt;, I ordered these, from eBay, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/5PCS-3mm-Thick-3D-Printer-Heating-Block-Cotton-Hotend-Nozzle-Heat-Insulation-EW-/282484985258&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;5PCS 3mm Thick 3D Printer Heating Block Cotton Hotend Nozzle Heat Insulation EW&lt;/a&gt;, for around £0.40&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6f1tY.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6f1tY.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Blurb from the item's description&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Thickness: 3mm &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Dimension : 75mm*21*3mm +/-0.2mm &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The heat insulation cotton is used for 3D printer nozzle keeping warm;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;The heating insulation cotton is made from heat-resistant ceramic fiber;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;The product sizes can be customized according to customer needs;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;The benefit for keeping the key parts of the 3D printer heating aluminum block warm;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Is making the internal temperature flat, saving power,and energy;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;This High temperature resistant cotton can work for a long time in high temperature of 900 degree.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other images:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8Y9KA.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8Y9KA.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VLyKX.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VLyKX.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nkRUR.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nkRUR.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Granted, these look suspiciously like the strips in &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/1247/efficient-and-easy-way-to-thermally-insulate-the-heat-block-of-the-hotend#answer-1249&quot;&gt;Ryan's answer&lt;/a&gt;, but use cotton, en lieu of ceramic tape.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4762" LastActivityDate="2017-06-14T13:19:05.060" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4234" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3456" CreationDate="2017-06-14T14:45:00.720" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;From &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.pololu.com/product/1182&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;A4988 Stepper Motor Driver Carrier&lt;/a&gt;, the rear of the breakout board, is identical to yours:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8xpCF.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8xpCF.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;A4988 Breakout rear&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note the two square pads for the GND, whereas the others are round. Now looking at the top side:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qUSdb.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qUSdb.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;A4988 Breakout top&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and note the position of the &lt;em&gt;square&lt;/em&gt; GND pins/pads, in relation to the trim pot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now look at this hi-res photo of a populated MKS board&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FZaJZ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FZaJZ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;MKS controller with A4988 drivers fitted&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Again, looking at the position of the trim pots, one can see that the A4988 breakout boards need to be oriented such that the side with GND pins need to be nearest to the top of the board. That is to say the GND on the &lt;em&gt;corner&lt;/em&gt; of the breakout board, needs to be pointing North East, as it were.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a schematic of the MKS 1.4 as well, although it is not much use, from &lt;a href=&quot;http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?13,753796&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;MKS Gen 1.4 circuit and pinouts&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2TyK6.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2TyK6.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;MKS-Gen-V1-4-3D-Printer-Control-Board-Motherboard-of-MEGA2560-RAMPS-1-4-With-USB&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4762" LastActivityDate="2017-06-14T14:45:00.720" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4235" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4265" CreationDate="2017-06-14T15:56:58.717" Score="3" ViewCount="2135" Body="&lt;p&gt;From my understanding, both PLA and ABS can be treated with acetone to make them smoother. So when they are treated with acetone, which is smother PLA or ABS or are they about the same? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I search online, all I find is how to treat the objects. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6896" LastActivityDate="2017-06-19T16:38:47.437" Title="What's smoother? Acetone treated PLA or ABS" Tags="|pla|abs|smoothing|vapor-smoothing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4236" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4237" CreationDate="2017-06-14T22:23:42.443" Score="6" ViewCount="5928" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am at my wits end with this problem. I start a print and the skirt goes down fine, then the outline of the parts go down fine (usually) and then when it goes to fill in the first layer, it will always get stuck to the hotend at some point and rip apart the layer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas on how to solve this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Printing PLA at 210°C;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;First layer temp is 225°C;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bed temp at 60°C;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1.75&amp;nbsp;mm filament, and;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;0.4&amp;nbsp;mm nozzle. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maker Select V2.1, using Cura to slice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7466" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2017-06-17T18:49:14.373" LastActivityDate="2017-07-17T11:32:32.113" Title="First layer eventually sticks to the hotend and tears" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4237" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4236" CreationDate="2017-06-14T23:49:49.640" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Step Zero:&lt;/strong&gt; is always to check/adjust the bed level - if the height over the bed varies while putting down the first layer, it's hard to ever get first layer settings that work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Step One:&lt;/strong&gt; is to adjust your first layer settings - height, temperature, extrusion width until you find a set that work for your setup (knowing that they may change somewhat when you change filament.) Some folks find more success with thin first layers, others with a thicker first layer to pump more plastic, still others use the same layer height but increase the width to pump more plastic, and others combine these approaches. Increasing the temperature is common, though in my case I found that the &quot;usual&quot; +5°C was not enough for the present setup.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can change one setting at a time and have an idea of what works better or worse in each case, or you can change lots of settings and hope you get lucky. I prefer the tedious approach, it's less maddening.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are you using any surface treatment on the bed? A bit of gluestick or hairspray may help you stick.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6853" LastActivityDate="2017-06-14T23:49:49.640" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4238" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4216" CreationDate="2017-06-15T03:35:47.680" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;UPDATE:  Turns out to have been a faulty RAMPS.  Replaced the card and made NO changes; z-axis is now behaving properly.  Thank you all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7436" LastActivityDate="2017-06-15T03:35:47.680" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4239" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4236" CreationDate="2017-06-15T11:39:24.833" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would ramp back on both temperatures.  My personal &quot;sweet point&quot; is closer to 50° bed and 195° hotend for PLA.  Typically the problem of extruded material getting stuck to the hotend occurs because the extruded material is not adhering well to the bed.  In your case it may simply be, as Ecnerwal suggests, nonoptimal Z-height adjustment.  Or it may be that the PLA isn't cooling quickly enough to adhere well, and thus is being &quot;dragged&quot; along with the extruded feed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2191" LastActivityDate="2017-06-15T11:39:24.833" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4240" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4066" CreationDate="2017-06-16T06:48:51.400" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Estimating time for any CNC based machines are measured in this formula:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;The length of pulses that machine travels x The feedrate of the pulse itself&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It gives you the time for whole movements. If you're familiar with NC codes, information of any movement is listed in a single line, having its own &lt;code&gt;feedrate&lt;/code&gt;, that's what we call pulses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As machines are not ideal, some delay occurs between pulses, approximately &lt;em&gt;1 or 2&amp;nbsp;ms&lt;/em&gt; according to machine type. That's what is not measured in the formula.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you were able to measure that &lt;code&gt;delay time&lt;/code&gt; and multiply it in &lt;code&gt;number of pulses&lt;/code&gt;, by adding it in the &lt;code&gt;estimated time&lt;/code&gt; found by machine, you could find a much more definite estimated time, for your process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7477" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-08-15T09:37:08.810" LastActivityDate="2018-08-15T09:37:08.810" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4242" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-06-16T17:48:22.303" Score="5" ViewCount="958" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just installed a Ramps 1.4 board on to my Anet A8. Everything worked as it should except for the Z axis motors. The Ramps board I have contains two headers for each Z axis motor. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When both motors are connected, one of the motors squeals like something awful. When I disconnect one motor it turns smooth as butter. I have tried this for both motors and when only one is connected it works as it should but does not with both. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has anyone experienced this? Is there a simple remedy for this issue? Any help is appreciated. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7485" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2017-06-16T19:06:52.497" LastActivityDate="2017-06-16T20:33:02.007" Title="Z axis issue with Ramps 1.4" Tags="|marlin|printer-building|ramps-1.4|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4243" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4242" CreationDate="2017-06-16T20:33:02.007" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Found the issue. The steps were set way to high. I lowered my steps to 500 and the steppers seem to perform as they should. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7485" LastActivityDate="2017-06-16T20:33:02.007" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4246" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4236" CreationDate="2017-06-17T13:39:45.403" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Try lowering your first layer temp to 205°C, and apply a gluestick to the bed before you print anything. By lowering the temp, this allows th plastic to cool faster, and doesn't risk the plastic sticking to the nozzle as much. Applying the glue stick will help the print to stick to the buildplate better, lowering the risk of it getting stuck to the nozzle. You might also want to try using a raft, as this will provide more surface area for the print to stick to the bed with, and lower the chances of it attaching to the nozzle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7019" LastEditorUserId="7019" LastEditDate="2017-06-17T18:58:24.667" LastActivityDate="2017-06-17T18:58:24.667" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4247" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4252" CreationDate="2017-06-17T14:25:58.920" Score="1" ViewCount="122" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been 3D printing for almost 4 years. Now that I have an M180, my RepRapPro Huxley is collecting dust as I only use it for flexible prints and ABS prints as it handles them better than the M180 does.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was wondering, since everything is open source in it and hardware-wise most open style Y carriage bed 3D printers are the same, would it be possible to make a 500 * 500 * 300 printer using the hardware from this printer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since the carriage system isn't that good, I would replace it with solid machined aluminium rails and the heat bed would be made out of four Prusa I3 HB, which would only require me to add a PC PSU to power the whole thing and some MOSFETs to handle the load. I would be salvaging the board, the steppers, the endstops and extruder assembly basically. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would such a setup be worth it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would the steppers have to handle more load?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="802" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2017-06-18T22:53:51.230" LastActivityDate="2017-06-18T22:53:51.230" Title="Upscaling a reprap" Tags="|reprap|diy-3d-printer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4248" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4249" CreationDate="2017-06-17T19:03:46.070" Score="3" ViewCount="4389" Body="&lt;p&gt;First, X and Y axis works perfectly, I measured well. I have plugged all jumpers, and use a very standard ramps 1.4 setup with standard Nema 17 200rev 1.8 motors and A4988 drivers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For Z axis, I have leadscrew with 8mm diameter and 2mm pitch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I calculated it should be &lt;code&gt;1600&lt;/code&gt; steps per mm.&#xA;Problem is when I call &lt;code&gt;G1 Z5&lt;/code&gt; it goes to 2 cm. So I lowered my setting to &lt;code&gt;400&lt;/code&gt; steps per mm and problem solved.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't understand what I'm missing here. I have used &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.prusaprinters.org/calculator/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; calculator to find &lt;code&gt;1600&lt;/code&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Where I'm wrong on the math then?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7420" LastActivityDate="2017-06-19T07:43:58.487" Title="Why do I have to lower my Z axis steps per mm?" Tags="|prusa-i3|marlin|z-axis|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4249" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4248" CreationDate="2017-06-17T20:47:12.143" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your leadscrew probably is a 2&amp;nbsp;mm pitch, &lt;strong&gt;4-start&lt;/strong&gt; leadscrew. This means that there are actually 4 separate grooves on the leadscrew, each with a pitch of 8&amp;nbsp;mm. Confusingly, this makes the total pitch 2&amp;nbsp;mm, since the distance from one groove to the next is 8mm divided by 4 grooves. However, one revolution of the leadscrew will still move the nut by 8&amp;nbsp;mm. Thus, in the Prusa calculator, you should enter a pitch of 8&amp;nbsp;mm/revolution. Since you entered a pitch of 2&amp;nbsp;mm, you ended up with a figure that is 4 times too large.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason leadscrews are made like this is that if you just had a single groove with an 8&amp;nbsp;mm pitch, the nut would need to be made very long to enable it to make contact with a sufficiently long portion of thread. By increasing the number of grooves, you can get away with a shorter nut. With lower pitch (lead-)screws you don't need multiple starts, since the lower pitch means the same length of nut is in contact with more thread.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the relative advantages and disadvantages of the various &lt;em&gt;leads&lt;/em&gt; (8/4/2&amp;nbsp;mm), as opposed to &lt;em&gt;pitches&lt;/em&gt;, see also &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/4031/would-using-a-leadscrew-with-1-or-2-mm-lead-en-lieu-of-8-mm-result-in-a-better/&quot;&gt;Would using a leadscrew with 1 or 2 mm lead, en lieu of 8 mm, result in a better printer?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2017-06-19T07:43:58.487" LastActivityDate="2017-06-19T07:43:58.487" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4251" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-06-18T00:22:53.940" Score="6" ViewCount="11973" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am using Marlin firmware with a RAMPS board on an Anet A8 printer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bed size for the printer is 220 x 220 mm and that is stated in the &lt;code&gt;configuration.h&lt;/code&gt; file. When using mesh bed leveling, the nozzle jumps to the first corner on the bed perfectly after setting the x-min to 5.0 but the next two points are off the end of the bed. Here are my settings: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;// Travel limits after homing (units are in mm)&#xA;&#xA; #define X_MIN_POS 5.0&#xA; #define Y_MIN_POS 0.0&#xA; #define Z_MIN_POS 0&#xA; #define X_MAX_POS 220&#xA; #define Y_MAX_POS 220&#xA; #define Z_MAX_POS 240&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What could be my issue? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7485" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-10-04T05:49:03.380" LastActivityDate="2022-06-02T21:14:32.783" Title="Nozzle jumps off the bed when using Marlin Mesh Bed Leveling" Tags="|marlin|anet-a8|bed-leveling|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4252" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4247" CreationDate="2017-06-18T02:00:00.583" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;To your three questions:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&quot;.. would it be possible to make a 500 * 500 * 300 printer using the hardware from this printer?&quot; - YES&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&quot;Would such a setup be worth it?&quot; - Only you could determine that.  It would quite a bit of work; but, if you enjoy making things it would likely be a fun accomplishment.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&quot;Would the steppers have to handle more load?&quot; - X and Y axis don't fight gravity so the the only force you fight is friction and accel/decel.  If you keep with a low friction design then you will just need to limit the accel and decel to what the motors can handle.  Regarding Z, this depends on your design, if you stick with the standard lead screw approach then the motor power required really isn't affected by the height.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Two thing to note about larger printers:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It takes a LONG time to make a large object.  Make sure you consider this in the design as you probably won't be able to be there the whole time.  Design with fire prevention in mind.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tall lead screws increase the risk of Z-axis wobble.  Make sure your consider this.  You will need VERY strait lead screws.  If you are going to capture both ends of the lead screw, use flex couplings.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6417" LastActivityDate="2017-06-18T02:00:00.583" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4255" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-06-18T06:34:12.083" Score="1" ViewCount="172" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm using a low voltage active screwdriver that is sensitive to magnetic fields.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is weird, even I put a metal piece on the glass over the heated bed and check it with the pen, it lights fully. If I hold the pen on air anywhere nearby, it is weak but still lights a bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My cards and PSU are not mounted on the case. I also grounded my PSU with a small cable from &lt;code&gt;G&lt;/code&gt; to &lt;code&gt;V-&lt;/code&gt;. So, what could be the reason? Is that normal for such complicated devices? Just curious.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7420" LastEditorUserId="7420" LastEditDate="2017-06-18T16:22:28.683" LastActivityDate="2017-06-19T16:25:35.863" Title="Magnetic field around the printer" Tags="|electronics|prusa-i3-rework|grounding|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4256" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-06-18T18:51:01.410" Score="10" ViewCount="31038" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to add auto bed leveling before each print. When I enable auto bed level in &lt;code&gt;configuration.h&lt;/code&gt;, it only shows &lt;strong&gt;auto bed&lt;/strong&gt; in menu. I found this code in &lt;code&gt;cardreader.cpp&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;void CardReader::openAndPrintFile(const char *name) {&#xA;    char cmd[4 + strlen(name) + 1]; // Room for &quot;M23 &quot;, filename, and null&#xA;    sprintf_P(cmd, PSTR(&quot;M23 %s&quot;), name);&#xA;    for (char *c = &amp;amp;cmd[4]; *c; c++) *c = tolower(*c);&#xA;    enqueue_and_echo_command(cmd);&#xA;    enqueue_and_echo_commands_P(PSTR(&quot;M24&quot;));&#xA;}&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and changed it to&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;void CardReader::openAndPrintFile(const char *name) {&#xA;    char cmd[4 + strlen(name) + 1]; // Room for &quot;M23 &quot;, filename, and null&#xA;    sprintf_P(cmd, PSTR(&quot;M23 %s&quot;), name);&#xA;    for (char *c = &amp;amp;cmd[4]; *c; c++) *c = tolower(*c);&#xA;    enqueue_and_echo_command(&quot;G28&quot;);&#xA;    enqueue_and_echo_command(&quot;G29&quot;);&#xA;    enqueue_and_echo_command(cmd);&#xA;    enqueue_and_echo_commands_P(PSTR(&quot;M24&quot;));&#xA;}&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now before each print, the printer does auto bedding &lt;strong&gt;two&lt;/strong&gt; times but when print starts the auto bedding is ignored and printer acts like before doing auto bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please help me solve this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm using Marlin Firmware 1.1.0.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7505" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-08-26T05:46:44.230" LastActivityDate="2022-01-23T10:59:01.673" Title="How can I add auto bed leveling before print?" Tags="|marlin|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4259" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-06-19T11:58:21.817" Score="5" ViewCount="3959" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd like to start 3d printing in wax.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a reasonably priced 3d printer that is capable of it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Am I right in assuming that all I need is to make my own filament and set extruder temperature correctly, or do I miss something?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7511" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2019-02-13T11:37:51.303" LastActivityDate="2019-02-13T11:37:51.303" Title="Can I print in wax?" Tags="|filament|print-material|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4260" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4259" CreationDate="2017-06-19T12:46:42.357" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;One of the applications of 3d printing with wax is when making jewellery using the lost-wax casting process.&#xA;I don't know if there are 'cheap' 3d printers for wax. One brand of 3d printers for wax is Solid-Scape.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6812" LastActivityDate="2017-06-19T12:46:42.357" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4261" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4259" CreationDate="2017-06-19T12:54:20.877" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, with the proper equipment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Printing wax filament (at 51 seconds): &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/tibkVZB_n9c?t=51s&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://youtu.be/tibkVZB_n9c?t=51s&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are also options for melting wax, filling a heated reservoir head, and printing with that. I recommend doing this with a cold ambient temperature, so that the wax solidifies quickly. There's no point in just printing a puddle. :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4922" LastActivityDate="2017-06-19T12:54:20.877" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4262" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4154" CreationDate="2017-06-19T15:22:45.893" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Servo for spindle to control rotation speed of cutting bit.&#xA;Stepper to control movement and tool position.&#xA;All CNC machines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7517" LastActivityDate="2017-06-19T15:22:45.893" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4263" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4266" CreationDate="2017-06-19T16:24:45.330" Score="6" ViewCount="4390" Body="&lt;p&gt;I configured Marlin 1.1.3 for auto-leveling with a fix mounted sensor connected to the Z end-stop pin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have the following settings in my config:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#define X_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER 25  &#xA;#define Y_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER 20  &#xA;#define Z_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER 0   // Z offset: -below +above  [the nozzle]&#xA;&#xA;#define Z_CLEARANCE_DEPLOY_PROBE   10 // Z Clearance for Deploy/Stow&#xA;#define Z_CLEARANCE_BETWEEN_PROBES  5 // Z Clearance between probe points&#xA;&#xA;#define AUTO_BED_LEVELING_BILINEAR&#xA;&#xA;#define GRID_MAX_POINTS_X 7&#xA;#define GRID_MAX_POINTS_Y GRID_MAX_POINTS_X&#xA;&#xA;// The Z probe minimum outer margin (to validate G29 parameters).&#xA;#define MIN_PROBE_EDGE 10&#xA;&#xA;// Set the boundaries for probing (where the probe can reach).&#xA;#define LEFT_PROBE_BED_POSITION 25&#xA;#define RIGHT_PROBE_BED_POSITION 150&#xA;#define FRONT_PROBE_BED_POSITION 30&#xA;#define BACK_PROBE_BED_POSITION 180&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I enter &lt;code&gt;M111 S38&lt;/code&gt; to enable LEVELING+INFO+ERROR debugging.&#xA;Then I enter &lt;code&gt;G28&lt;/code&gt; to home all axes and then enter &lt;code&gt;G29&lt;/code&gt; to start auto-leveling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The auto-leveling starts successfully and after finishing I see the scan grid in console:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;12:41:35.983 : Bilinear Leveling Grid:&#xA;12:41:35.983 : 0      1      2      3      4      5      6&#xA;12:41:35.983 : 0 -3.127 -3.405 -3.405 -3.292 -3.595 -3.487 -3.537&#xA;12:41:35.983 : 1 -3.110 -3.367 -3.337 -3.220 -3.470 -3.350 -3.365&#xA;12:41:35.983 : 2 -3.138 -3.367 -3.330 -3.215 -3.442 -3.345 -3.385&#xA;12:41:35.984 : 3 -3.013 -3.225 -3.182 -3.047 -3.225 -3.132 -3.150&#xA;12:41:35.984 : 4 -2.970 -3.165 -3.097 -2.972 -3.160 -3.045 -3.065&#xA;12:41:35.984 : 5 -2.875 -3.075 -3.005 -2.847 -2.990 -2.872 -2.875&#xA;12:41:35.984 : 6 -2.680 -2.845 -2.755 -2.615 -2.753 -2.617 -2.622&#xA;12:41:35.985 : G29 uncorrected Z:10.00&#xA;12:41:35.985 : corrected Z:12.85&#xA;12:41:35.985 : &amp;lt;&amp;lt;&amp;lt; gcode_G29&#xA;12:41:35.985 : X:120.00 Y:160.00 Z:12.85 E:0.00 Count X:9600 Y:12800 Z:4000&#xA;12:41:35.985 : current_position=(120.00, 160.00, 12.85) : sync_plan_position&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the auto-leveling scanning seems to be successful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a visual of the leveling grid (but upside down to make it easier to view):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TOas7.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Inverted visual of the leveling grid&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TOas7.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Inverted visual of the leveling grid&quot; title=&quot;Inverted visual of the leveling grid&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Naturally I &lt;strong&gt;DO NOT&lt;/strong&gt; enter &lt;code&gt;G28&lt;/code&gt; after the scanning. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I enter &lt;code&gt;G0 Z1&lt;/code&gt; to down nozzle almost to table. But when I enter for example &lt;code&gt;G0 X25 Y30&lt;/code&gt; and look at level and then I enter &lt;code&gt;G0 X150 Y150&lt;/code&gt; I see the big difference between nozzle levels relatively to table. So it seems that height compensation does not work. I expect that Z axis would lift up or down depending on auto-leveling results but Z motor do not work when I move X/Y. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By the way I tried 3 point autoleveling. It was pretty rough but Z axis corrected it's level when I moved axes using &lt;code&gt;G0&lt;/code&gt; commands.&#xA;And to avoid questions &quot;why my table is inclined so much?&quot; I deliberately inclined the table to be sure that auto leveling works. By the way, I tried different &lt;code&gt;Z_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER&lt;/code&gt; so the current 0 setting is not actual but situation is the same with any value of this option.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I am doing wrong?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7425" LastEditorUserId="4927" LastEditDate="2018-02-26T19:30:30.360" LastActivityDate="2023-07-10T00:00:03.137" Title="Auto leveling with Marlin and RAMPS 1.4 does not work" Tags="|marlin|bed-leveling|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4264" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4255" CreationDate="2017-06-19T16:25:35.863" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The heated bed is a big PCB whose traces can act like a coil since heating the bed makes current flow through these traces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By placing a metal object over it, you encounter a phenomenon called induction which will heat up the metal object (that can be the screwdriver tip) because the magnetic field generated by the &quot;coil&quot; of the heat bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since these screwdrivers can be pretty sensitive the electrical current transferred from the heat bed to the metal bit may turn on the screwdriver LED&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, stepper motors contain magnets and electromagnets which produce an alternating magnetic field when turned on which, by induction, can produce a little current in the spring inside the screwdriver which would act like a receiving coil thus turning on the led hooked up to it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Try this with your printer on: put the tip of your screwdriver on your tongue (which will effectively ground it with your body) and put the handle over stepper motors or the heat bed and see if it lights brighter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="802" LastActivityDate="2017-06-19T16:25:35.863" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4265" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4235" CreationDate="2017-06-19T16:38:47.437" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;ABS filaments will smooth well with using acetone, it's been used for a while now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For PLA filaments it's a different story, pure PLA will not smooth out in acetone and it will likely only cause structural failure of the product.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However most PLA filaments aren't pure PLA, they contain additives including ABS that react differently when exposed to acetone and the reaction will really depend on the manufacturer of the filament, only a few PLA filaments are known to smooth like ABS when in an acetone vapor bath, it is the case for ColorFabb PLA filaments and it is absolutely not the case for bq PLA filaments that only soften and break when exposed to acetone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll have to make small tests with different brands of filament to see which smooth well and which don't but if you want to go fast either go with ABS or use other smoothing techniques such as sanding + 3D print Smooth On epoxy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="802" LastActivityDate="2017-06-19T16:38:47.437" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4266" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4263" CreationDate="2017-06-20T11:56:08.577" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Bed leveling is disabled by default. So the mesh was scanned but is not apllied after G29 command. To apply the mesh we need to enable bed leveling using &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;M420 S1 &#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;command&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7425" LastActivityDate="2017-06-20T11:56:08.577" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4267" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4327" CreationDate="2017-06-21T06:21:13.097" Score="4" ViewCount="3161" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Monoprice architect which is a barebones clone of the FlashForge Creator Pro, or Replicator 1 Dual. I have upgraded the power supply and added a heated bed and, after getting fed up with MakerBot software, I've started using Cura to slice then post process with GPX.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did a lot of searching and finally found someone who posted their start and end G-code for this particular printer. The only catch is that his code only works on version 15.04.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't get me wrong, 15.04 is a huge upgrade compared to MakerWare. But, I would really like to start using a newer version like 2.5 or anything relatively new.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is the start code I found. I have tried it in 2.5 with error in post processing. Any help is appreciated!!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;; -- START GCODE --&#xA;M136 ; start build&#xA;M73 P0&#xA;G90 ; absolute coordinates&#xA;;&#xA;; set temperatures and assert Vref&#xA;M140 S{print_bed_temperature}&#xA;M104 S{print_temperature} T0&#xA;G130 X118 Y118 A118 B118 ; set stepper motor Vref to defaults&#xA;; let the Z stepper vref stay at eeprom level (probably 40)&#xA;;&#xA;; home and recall eeprom home position&#xA;T0 ; home on the right nozzle&#xA;G28 X Y Z ; home all axes at homing speed&#xA;G92 X0 Y0 Z0 A0 B0 ; set all coords to 0 for now&#xA;G1 Z5 F500 ; move Z 5mm away so we can carefully hit the limit switch&#xA;G161 Z F100 ; home Z slowly&#xA;M132 X Y Z ; recall stored home offsets for XYZ axes&#xA;;&#xA;; wait for heat up&#xA;G1 X110 Y-72 Z30 F3300 ; move to waiting position&#xA;M116 ; wait for temps&#xA;;&#xA;; purge and wipe&#xA;G92 E0 ; set current extruder position as 0 so that E15 below makes sense&#xA;G1 X110 Y-70 Z0.2 F2400.0 ; move to just on the bed&#xA;G1 X110 Y70 E15 F1200.000 ; extrude a line of filament along the right edge of the bed&#xA;G92 E0 ; set E to 0 again because the slicer's next extrusion is relative to this 0&#xA;;&#xA;; Sliced at: {day} {date} {time}&#xA;; Basic settings: Layer height: {layer_height} Walls: {wall_thickness} Fill: {fill_density}&#xA;; Print time: {print_time}&#xA;; Filament used: {filament_amount}m {filament_weight}g&#xA;; Filament cost: {filament_cost}&#xA;; -- end of START GCODE --&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7536" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2017-06-21T14:43:51.537" LastActivityDate="2018-10-01T20:13:09.580" Title="Using a MakerBot Replicator 1 dual (or clone like FlashForge Creator) with Cura" Tags="|software|makerbot|ultimaker-cura|g-code|replicator-dual|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4268" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4259" CreationDate="2017-06-21T07:10:15.977" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Should be easy to do it in low temperatures, also check for moldlay filament.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wax is indeed useful for lost-wax casting method.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7420" LastActivityDate="2017-06-21T07:10:15.977" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4269" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4259" CreationDate="2017-06-21T09:48:27.747" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, you can. But no, you don't need to make your own filament for it, there is one called &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.machinablewax.com/product.php?product=52&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Print2Cast&lt;/a&gt; that you can buy for about 50$/kg.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This filament has the following recommended slicing settings:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Extrusion temperature:&lt;/strong&gt; 140°C-150°C&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Bed temperature:&lt;/strong&gt; 80°-90°C&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Shells:&lt;/strong&gt; 2-3 (for most models)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Print speed:&lt;/strong&gt; 20 to 70mm/s&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are, however, a few more things to look out for when printing with wax, as it is very soft.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The most important issue is the grip of the extruder wheel. See if other people have used your printer/extruder with flexible filaments. If they were successful in doing that, there's a high chance a wax print will succeed as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bed adhesion might also be an issue. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.machinablewax.com/product.php?product=52&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;MachinableWax.com&lt;/a&gt; recommend 6 coats of hair spray on a glass bed, letting each of them dry before adding the next.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cooling is also important, as with many filaments. You'll probably have to experiment with that a little as either too much or too little can ruin your print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7540" LastActivityDate="2017-06-21T09:48:27.747" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4271" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4267" CreationDate="2017-06-21T14:38:26.897" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Edit:  After looking at GPX more I'm not sure what you are doing?  Are you trying to slice something in Cura and use GPX to make the X3G file or use the starting g-code from Cura in Makerware?  The code you posted above is used in Cura to generate the g-code and it appears you should be giving GPX the g-code file made by Cura.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You didn't specify which error you are getting or where but if I had to guess it's from the information in the curly braces. Everything in curly braces &quot;{}&quot; is a variable in the slicer used to generate the g-code.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All the information below is useless to the printer and I would start by removing it to see if you still get an error.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;; Sliced at: {day} {date} {time}&#xA;; Basic settings: Layer height: {layer_height} Walls: {wall_thickness} Fill: {fill_density}&#xA;; Print time: {print_time}&#xA;; Filament used: {filament_amount}m {filament_weight}g&#xA;; Filament cost: {filament_cost}&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you still have an issue after removing that then you could remove &lt;code&gt;{print_bed_temperature}&lt;/code&gt; and &lt;code&gt;{print_temperature}&lt;/code&gt; and hardcode those values to something to see if the process completes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it's successful at that point then look at a different starting g-code and find those variable names and replace them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="233" LastEditorUserId="233" LastEditDate="2017-06-21T14:51:57.660" LastActivityDate="2017-06-21T14:51:57.660" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4272" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-06-21T17:38:43.640" Score="2" ViewCount="236" Body="&lt;p&gt;I got a life size model of a signaling post (trains) where I scale it down to 1/87 model (in SketchUp). When I send the model to my 3D printer (with Cura 2.4) some parts of the model are lost in translation even when their dimensions exceed the printer minimal dimension of 0.7&amp;nbsp;mm. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this a known problem of Cura or is something else at hand?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7545" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-11-10T02:33:06.523" LastActivityDate="2018-11-10T02:33:06.523" Title="Scale down SketchUp live size object does not render completely" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4273" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4154" CreationDate="2017-06-21T20:44:34.240" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The main reason why stepper motors are used is their low price. Small stepper motors (NEMA 17 and smaller) are powerful enough for 3D printers because the mass is so small. These motors generally require a maximum of 2 amps of current. 2 amps is small enough that control chips with all the circuitry and drive electronics can be manufactured as an integrated unit. The most common chips in 3D printers are the Allegro line of chips. Since they are so common, the price per chip is extremely low.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Servo motors could have a similar fully integrated chip, but the issue is servos need to be tuned for their specific application. A servo needs to be tuned separately for each axis of each model of a 3D printer (or other CNC device). This makes servos much more difficult to use for hobbyists in particular. If a servo is not tuned properly, it could oscillate dramatically or respond to inputs too slowly. The interface for tuning would probably be a serial interface, which would increase the cost and complexity dramatically.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally, servo motors require an encoder of some type. Often it is an optical encoder, but there are also magnetic encoders and capacitive encoders. The cost of the encoder is essentially constant no matter how powerful the motor is, so when you have a small motor, the cost of the encoder is significant. High resolution magnetic encoders are $3 each in bulk. That would add a lot of cost to the motor, not including the other more expensive drive electronics. Optical encoders can be cheaper; I'm not sure of the specific pricing on those.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ignoring cost, servo motors with high resolution encoders would definitely be better for 3D printers. I think we will likely see some higher end consumer printers with servos come onto the market soon. Servos would eliminate missed steps, potentially increase acceleration and maximum speed (depending on the size), and would reduce vibrations if properly tuned.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The answer given by markshancock brings up good points too, but I wanted to elaborate on the cost issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7547" LastActivityDate="2017-06-21T20:44:34.240" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4274" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4272" CreationDate="2017-06-21T21:58:32.923" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You will indeed have difficulties with scaling a model to the point that individual components become smaller than the tolerances of your printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is more likely a problem with your model, having been created in SketchUp. If you use an online model repair service, it will almost certainly return an indication that the model was flawed. Unfortunately, those repair services are not a good choice for repairing a SketchUp model, as the fail points are usually beyond the capability of the software.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another option would be to load the model into MeshMixer and use Analysis/Inspector to reveal the flaws, but again, the automatic repair feature would likely destroy the model.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even a program as simplistic as TinkerCAD will do a better job of creating a 3D printable model.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Consider to begin learning a different, perhaps more challenging program such as OpenSCAD or Solvespace, or even more challenging than those, Fusion 360. All of the above are free, while Fusion 360 has the requirement of non-commercial/hobbyist use to remain free.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastActivityDate="2017-06-21T21:58:32.923" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4275" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4272" CreationDate="2017-06-22T01:37:13.677" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;I don't think Cura is really the problem.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have heard a lot of comments that Sketchup often produces stl files that do no slice well (do to geometry errors).  Scaling the model (especially by a huge factor like 1/87 is going to exacerbate that problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are several things you can do to reduce the problem.  Here is an article on how to &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.materialise.com/blog/3d-printing-with-sketchup/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;3D Printing with SketchUp&lt;/a&gt;  Itt has some really good pointers.  Remember that if you are scaling down, the minimums it mentioned will need to be much larger to account for the scaling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could also try using &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.meshmixer.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;MeshMixer&lt;/a&gt; to fix and scale the stl file before importing it into Cura.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As @fred_dot_u indicated, the better option would be to move from Sketchup to a CAD program that works better with 3D printing.  I use &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.autodesk.com/products/fusion-360&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Fustion360&lt;/a&gt; (and so does my 15yo son who learned it really quickly from YouTube videos.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you decide to go that route, here is an article on how to &lt;a href=&quot;https://knowledge.autodesk.com/support/fusion-360/troubleshooting/caas/sfdcarticles/sfdcarticles/How-to-import-or-open-a-file-in-Autodesk-Fusion-360.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Import your Sketchup Model into Fusion 360&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6417" LastActivityDate="2017-06-22T01:37:13.677" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4276" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4154" CreationDate="2017-06-22T09:00:33.020" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The basic difference between a traditional stepper and a servo-based system is the type of motor and how it is controlled. Steppers typically use 50 to 100 pole brushless motors while typical servo motors have only 4 to 12 poles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7554" LastActivityDate="2017-06-22T09:00:33.020" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4280" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4281" CreationDate="2017-06-23T20:17:19.010" Score="1" ViewCount="581" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would also be curious on how I could get the best results with these printers. I am in a situation where I have cheap access to a:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://proto3000.com/fortus-250mc.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Fortus 250mc&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;, which prints in ABS and has a minimum resolution of 0.007mm (but that can be raised as high as 0.013mm to print faster), and has a &quot;Soluble Support System&quot; which enables printing overhangs. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://formlabs.com/3d-printers/form-2/?utm_content=main-nav&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Form 2&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;, which prints with Photosensitive Resin, has a resolution of .05mm, and can also print overhangs. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Stratasys Dimension SST1200es&lt;/strong&gt;, prints in &quot;ABSplus&quot; (whatever that is), has a resolution of .254 mm, and can indeed print overhangs. As far as I can tell the main advantage of this one over the Fortus is that the supports can be immediately removed after printing and don't need to be dissolved first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am okay with processing or finishing the miniatures later so long as it's not &lt;em&gt;too&lt;/em&gt; time consuming (such as by running an acetone vapor bath), but I'm curious when I would use each printer and how I could get the most out of both. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;P.S. Also the Stratasys is more expensive for me to print on than any of the others so please keep that in mind when answering :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7575" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2018-09-16T12:32:40.390" LastActivityDate="2020-12-22T17:47:50.027" Title="Which 3D printer should I use to make custom miniatures for a tabletop game?" Tags="|print-quality|abs|post-processing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4281" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4280" CreationDate="2017-06-23T22:08:33.950" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Form 2 will definitely give the best results for your application.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both the Fortus and the Dimension use &lt;em&gt;FDM&lt;/em&gt;, which builds the model up using a bead of molten plastic. Because this bead is typically 0.5mm in diameter, this strongly limits the details you can print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Form 2 uses liquid resin, that is cured by scanning it with a laser. This process is called &lt;em&gt;SLA&lt;/em&gt;. The laser produces a 0.14mm dot, and so you can produce much finer details. The Form 2 can also use much thinner layers (down to 0.025mm v.s. the 0.178mm of the Fortus) so the models will be much smoother.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To make small miniatures SLA is much more suitable than FDM.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastActivityDate="2017-06-23T22:08:33.950" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4283" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4284" CreationDate="2017-06-24T17:49:55.637" Score="2" ViewCount="548" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was thinking of getting the MonoPrice Mini 3D v2 printer.   I know the bed is kind of small.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How would I know what I could print from Thingiverse?  They don't really state what the bed size should be.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does the software fix this for you?  Do you scale it?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7582" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2017-06-25T05:49:56.963" LastActivityDate="2017-06-25T05:49:56.963" Title="3D printing bed size and selecting models" Tags="|diy-3d-printer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4284" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4283" CreationDate="2017-06-24T19:01:58.437" Score="4" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Yes, objects in thingiverse usually doesn't include their size and this can require extra effort to obtain.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There are several options to scale objects to fit your printer.  You can often do that in the slicer or using a separate program like meshmixer.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The bed size is not the only (or maybe even primary) limitation you will need to consider when printing an object.  You also need to think of your max height, nozzle size and for your choice of material your will need to consider things like you max extruder and bed temperatures (or even have a heated bed), nozzle type, etc.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You should be able to print just about anything on thingiverse; but, the limitations of your printer will affect HOW you will have to print it and whether you will be happy with the final product.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have heard of plenty of people the have smaller printers and it was the right place for them to start.  Having a smaller printer that performs well for you will be a much better experience than a larger printer that performs poorly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whether the Monoprice Mini 3D v2 printer is the best printer is something only you can decide.  Read and watch the reviews, they can be a great source of &quot;perspective&quot;. I know we all have limited budgets and there are certainly way more things you can print with a printer than you can without one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6417" LastActivityDate="2017-06-24T19:01:58.437" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4286" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4287" CreationDate="2017-06-25T02:40:20.267" Score="7" ViewCount="2072" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been getting clogs and believe that it may be due to a damaged PTFE tube inside my hot end.  I have a replacement (it came with my printer), but I can't seem to fit the tube into the nozzle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also tried to turn the original PTFE tube around, and I can't get the other end to fit into the nozzle either.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a trick to it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7223" LastEditorUserId="7223" LastEditDate="2017-06-25T02:57:44.823" LastActivityDate="2018-06-23T13:44:56.500" Title="How do I get a replacement PTFE tube to fit inside my nozzle?" Tags="|hotend|nozzle|ptfe-tube|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4287" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4286" CreationDate="2017-06-25T13:51:05.997" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the end, I was able to get the tube in the nozzle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It took a lot of patience, and it seems to help if the nozzle is warm as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7223" LastActivityDate="2017-06-25T13:51:05.997" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4288" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4289" CreationDate="2017-06-26T05:21:55.250" Score="6" ViewCount="16272" Body="&lt;p&gt;I printed &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:53451&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Planetary Gears&lt;/a&gt; and the top looks great&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Oq5DB.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Oq5DB.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;top&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;but the bottom doesn't&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MKMDQ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MKMDQ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;bottom&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am printing on a TronXY X3 (Prusa i3 metal frame clone) using eSun PLA+ and sliced using Cura 2.4.  I print on glass and do manual leveling (sheet of paper to set gap).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What could be causing this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It almost looks like a raft; but, I selected to print with a Brim not a Raft.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have seen this on some other prints so I suspect it is a slicer setting.&#xA;Note: Bed adhesion seemed great.  First adhered well and part popped off with very little effort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6417" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2018-07-08T14:40:27.543" LastActivityDate="2023-04-18T13:08:55.057" Title="Why is the bottom of my part not smooth" Tags="|print-quality|ultimaker-cura|slicing|tronxy-x3|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4289" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4288" CreationDate="2017-06-26T06:23:51.950" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Your nozzle is too far from your bed.&lt;/strong&gt; The first layer isn't squished down sufficiently, resulting in these gaps. If your first layer looks like this, you should cancel your print and adjust the bed. Alternatively, you can adjust the initial height of the Z-axis in G-code (for instance, &lt;code&gt;G0 Z-0.1&lt;/code&gt; followed by &lt;code&gt;G92 Z0&lt;/code&gt;, which should be appended to your start G-code).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also try increasing the first layer height or the first layer extrusion multiplier. If you increase the first layer height, you will probably still have to adjust the bed slightly to bring the nozzle closer, but the thicker your first layer the larger the window where you get a good first layer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Increasing the extrusion multiplier will effectively stretch the first layer to be thicker (and thus the model will come out slightly too high) and thus isn't necessarily a good idea, though some people find that a slight increase (to for instance, 110%) makes the first layer slightly more forgiving (but this also increases adherence, making parts harder to remove - there is a very fine line between getting good first layers and having your prints stuck permanently to the bed).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastEditorUserId="26" LastEditDate="2017-06-26T06:40:49.587" LastActivityDate="2017-06-26T06:40:49.587" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4290" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4288" CreationDate="2017-06-27T05:37:01.907" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;@TomvanderZanden was correct&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;My nozzle was too far from your bed&lt;/strong&gt; (sort of)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since my printer is manually leveled I have to use a sheet of paper to check each leveling point.  This means the nozzle is about 0.1mm off the bed at home.  In Cura, I had &lt;code&gt;Initial Layer Height=0.3mm&lt;/code&gt; BUT this is supposed to be 0.3mm above the bed and my home will be already 0.1mm the bed; so, I really needed &lt;code&gt;Initial Layer Height=0.2mm&lt;/code&gt;!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After doing that, the first layer laid down really nicely and all the lines got properly smooshed together.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/98POk.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/98POk.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6417" LastActivityDate="2017-06-27T05:37:01.907" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4291" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4302" CreationDate="2017-06-27T08:46:16.010" Score="5" ViewCount="4843" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an STL file from thingiverse. The model is of a rectangular lid with an engraving. I would like to print it using two different colors, so that the engraving would be in a different color than the lid base. In the model description, the creator explained that he simply switched the material mid printing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I have a two-extruder printer, and I'd like to utilize it for this printing. What's the easiest way (tool) to select a part of the model and define that it should be printed using a different color?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7597" LastActivityDate="2017-06-28T18:19:43.053" Title="Convert an STL model to a two-extruder model" Tags="|3d-models|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4292" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4291" CreationDate="2017-06-27T09:38:11.753" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;One method is to use meshmixer to select the faces to be created in the second color and &quot;detach&quot; them without removing them from the model. Keeping the detached faces in place provides the appropriate alignment when brought into the slicer. When exporting the model for printing, check your preferences to ensure both segments are exported at the same time. The preferences (file) default to separate exports based on selection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some manipulation will be required with the extracted segments, as typically one is removing a zero-thickness surface from a manifold object. The videos I've seen usually create an extrusion towards the inner body to create a dimensional model from the extracted skin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even if you are not familiar with Meshmixer, there are a number of videos and tutorials explaining this feature. If you use the terms &quot;meshmixer dual extrusion&quot; you'll get loads of links in return. I narrowed it by adding &quot;Maker's Muse&quot; to the search, as his explanations are clearer than others.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know that Slic3r and Simplify3D will support the correct positioning when importing the model, other slicers may require additional research to accomplish this objective. My search also appears to indicate that Cura will support such processing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hlUBu.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hlUBu.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;dual extrusion rabbit&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rabbit in this image was being prepared for two colors. I've seen the video but cannot recall why this image was presented, as the other pieces were eventually incorporated during one print. It's possible this image represents a single color print, based on the supports, but it is indicative of a partial process during the creation of a dual extrusion print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastActivityDate="2017-06-27T09:38:11.753" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4293" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-06-27T11:34:09.267" Score="7" ViewCount="1443" Body="&lt;p&gt;My 3D printer makes weird sounds. When it's at &gt;75% printing speed the extruder motor makes a &quot;tac tac&quot; sound and it goes backwards, pushing the filament back, for a small interval of time. I have tried changing the nozzle temperature and I'm unable to work this out alone. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has someone had the same problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the 3D printer: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.dx.com/es/p/geeetech-high-quality-wood-geeetech-prusa-i3-pro-w-3d-printer-kit-469707?tc=EUR&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Geeetech High Quality Wood Geeetech Prusa I3 Pro W 3D Printer Kit&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7600" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2017-06-28T19:02:31.493" LastActivityDate="2019-01-27T16:07:24.570" Title="&quot;Tac Tac&quot; sound when printing with ABS" Tags="|abs|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4294" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4291" CreationDate="2017-06-27T12:53:39.757" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can also preview the gcode rendering layer by layer (if your software allows this), and insert a toolchange command at the layer where you want to switch colors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4922" LastActivityDate="2017-06-27T12:53:39.757" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4295" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4293" CreationDate="2017-06-27T17:49:36.340" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You are extruding (rather, attempting to extrude) faster than the hotend/nozzle can melt &amp;amp; pump plastic. Eventually something's got to give, and it's usually the grip on the filament by the extruder gear (or the torque available is exceeded.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You either need to limit the speed you extrude at, or change other print settings (temperature) to melt faster. You are not going 75% - you're trying to go more than 100% (in real terms of what the printer can actually do.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6853" LastEditorUserId="6853" LastEditDate="2017-06-27T21:25:25.107" LastActivityDate="2017-06-27T21:25:25.107" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4296" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4293" CreationDate="2017-06-27T18:34:30.413" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;@Ecnerwal is right: that noise you hear is the extruder not being able to push the filament, and the stepper can't push any harder. When the extruder tries to push harder than it can, it gives up, and the &quot;spring&quot; tension it created in the filament forces it to go backwards a tiny bit. Then it tries again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Possible causes/fixes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Temperature too low -- this makes the filament not liquid enough to push through the nozzle easily. For ABS, you should be in the 230-240 range.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Clogged nozzle -- take the nozzle off (while hot) and try heating it with a torch to burn out anything that might be in there.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Bad filament -- If the filament has contamination in it, or is too large to fit through the hot end in places (I.E. it gets up to 1.9mm instead of 1.75mm)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Stepper current too low -- I'm not sure if you can adjust the current that is sent to your stepper motors, but if it is too low, the stepper can not provide enough torque to push the filament through. I don't see the stepper drivers on the site, so I don't know if you can adjust them or not.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2017-06-27T18:34:30.413" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4297" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4293" CreationDate="2017-06-27T20:23:24.477" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It could be a result of filament building up around the drive gear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;disassemble your extruder to expose the drive gear (the gear that drives the filament down to the heat element). &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;clean any filament build-up out of the the teeth.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Filament can sometimes build up around the gear over time when the extruder temp is not high enough to efficiently melt the filament. This occurs more commonly with ABS I've noticed, probably partly due to its higher heat resistance. However, this affect is ultimately an issue of poor quality filament (aka cheap).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="98" LastActivityDate="2017-06-27T20:23:24.477" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4298" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4291" CreationDate="2017-06-27T23:58:04.993" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;With OpenScad i would take the stl, and cut half of it off, but subtracting a block.  That result I would save to a.stl.   Then i would move the block to the other side of the model and subtract that piece off.  The result i would save as b.stl.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My slicer is RepG.   It has an option for merging two stl files and printing them dual.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1397" LastActivityDate="2017-06-27T23:58:04.993" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4299" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4286" CreationDate="2017-06-28T00:39:53.027" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;What kind of printer do you have? Is it a FlashForge? They sell replacement PTFE tubes on their website, and you can also buy them on Amazon. Just be careful you are buying the correct tube for the correct printer. For example, the Flashforge Finder does not use the same size PTFE tube as the Flashforge Creator Pro or Flashforge Dreamer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you had trouble once, you can bet you will probably have trouble again. You should probably buy the part now before you need it. I tell you this as I sit without a working printer (and I have three) while I wait for parts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just be sure you buy the correct size tubing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7563" LastActivityDate="2017-06-28T00:39:53.027" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4300" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4267" CreationDate="2017-06-28T00:47:06.850" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Why not download Flashprint by Flashforge and try using it with your printer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Flashprint by Flashforge creates X3G files, therefore not requiring the conversion from GPX to X3G. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7563" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-10-01T20:13:09.580" LastActivityDate="2018-10-01T20:13:09.580" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4301" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4267" CreationDate="2017-06-28T04:38:41.200" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Look at the Cura error log file for why Cura doesn't like your startup code.  The log file is located at &lt;code&gt;$User/AppData/Local/cura/cura.log&lt;/code&gt;.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem may be that one the the parameters included in startup code (the names included in '{}') is no longer available in the newer Cura or the name has changed.  Hopefully the error log will lead you to the specific issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If that doesn't help, try cutting out 1/2 the code and retrying until you can figure what line Cura doesn't like.  Crude but effective.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6417" LastActivityDate="2017-06-28T04:38:41.200" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4302" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4291" CreationDate="2017-06-28T18:19:43.053" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;After a bit tinkering, I finally managed to split the model to two STL files, then used Cura to print them each in its own color. I decided to post here the steps I followed, as simply as I could, hoping that it would help other beginners.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The procedure was quite simple, even though it took a while for me to figure it out:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Following the advice of &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LSCr0SnwA-Q&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this video&lt;/a&gt;, I used MeshMixer to edit the STL file I downloaded from thingiverse. I:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Selected the areas I wanted to separate using the select tool (I had to change the tool &quot;radius&quot; so that it won't keep selecting unwanted faces of the model).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In the same tool, I used the &quot;Separate&quot; command to create two objects from the one I had before. This showed the &quot;object explorer&quot; window.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I clicked each of the parts in the object explorer window and exported them separately to STL files.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then, using Cura, I followed &lt;a href=&quot;https://fbrc8.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/articles/115000062763-Slicing-for-Dual-Extrusion&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this site&lt;/a&gt;, and performed the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Loaded both models to Cura (order doesn't matter).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Picked Print Core 1 for the first part and Core 2 for the second part.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Selected both models (using the Shift key), then right-clicked and chose &quot;Merge Models&quot;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Profit!&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7597" LastActivityDate="2017-06-28T18:19:43.053" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4303" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3366" CreationDate="2017-06-28T20:19:12.337" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Use ferrules to join wires, and on your board either solder directly (it doesn't matter what solder you use because it's not going to get hot if your wires are gauged properly).  Or use soft copper wires and clamping terminals without the wires being tinned or risk a fire hazard. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tinning makes the surface harder which makes for less contact area.  If it deforms from heat , it can come loose and cause arcs, which is where the fire hazard comes from.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7610" LastEditorUserId="7610" LastEditDate="2017-08-16T20:15:20.897" LastActivityDate="2017-08-16T20:15:20.897" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4304" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-06-28T22:04:49.930" Score="4" ViewCount="3881" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have spent ages debugging this problem but I can't figure out what I am doing wrong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a Wanhao duplicator i3 (Prusa i3 clone) and until recently I used Wanhao's adapted version of the Cura slicer. But it's quite an old Cura version and I wanted to make use of the improved supports in the new Cura.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately it seems like I just can't get the infill in the newest Cura to work. I copied all the settings from my Wanhao branded Cura version and printed the same file.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;This is the result:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RJPkN.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RJPkN.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Infill of tiny pillars&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The infill is shaped like many tiny pillars. They are super fragile and while they do support material to be printed on top, they hardly withstand any pressure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have gone through quite a few testing cubes each with some setting altered, but nothing seemed to help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It can't be the printers fault as I have successfully printed test cubes sliced with the old Cura in between (and not only once). Increasing temperature or slowing down the infill didn't help either. Neither did increasing flow rate or switching to triangular infill pattern. Also I have tried printing with all speeds set to 50mm/s and it still failed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;My standard settings&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;em&gt;(from which I have created many test cubes with each cube having some settings tweaked)&lt;strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt;:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Layer Height: 0.12 mm&#xA;&#xA;Init. Layer Height: 0.10 mm&#xA;&#xA;Wall Line Count: 2&#xA;&#xA;Top Layers: 6&#xA;&#xA;Bottom Layers: 4&#xA;&#xA;Infill Line distance: 5 mm (used to be 20 % in old Cura, but this is very dense in the new Cura)&#xA;&#xA;Infill Pattern: Lines&#xA;&#xA;Infill Overlap Percentage: 20 %&#xA;&#xA;Printing Temperature: 200 °C&#xA;&#xA;Build Plate Temperature: 60 °C&#xA;&#xA;Retraction: Enabled, Distance: 2 mm, Speed: 60 mm/s&#xA;&#xA;Speeds: Print:60 mm/s, Infill: 60 mm/s, Outer Wall: 30 mm/s, Inner Wall: 60 mm/s, Top/Bottom: 40 mm/s, Travel: 100 mm/s, Initial Layer: 20 mm/s&#xA;&#xA;Combing Mode: All&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6948" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-06-12T14:05:30.120" LastActivityDate="2019-06-12T14:05:30.120" Title="Ultimaker Cura infill issues (weird vertical pillars due to underextrusion)" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|infill|wanhao|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4305" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4306" CreationDate="2017-06-29T13:09:18.130" Score="3" ViewCount="712" Body="&lt;p&gt;I made a pressing stamp in AutoCAD 2013 for stamping letters, but I'm having difficulties to save the file. I can save it anyhow in any format, but when it comes to .STL, some parts just doesn't show.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I made a platform on bottom (25x25x3 mm cuboid) on which I put solids as they represent my logo. But when I export, I select all, but it saves me just 3 or 4 parts from 7 total. On many occasions I get saved different parts, but never all of them or more than 4.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am also getting the error while saving, which says: &quot;the boolean operation on solids failed&quot; and &quot;Failure in face-face intersection merging algorithm.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anything I try to do (even copy to another file and do there, doesn't help at all. But the irony is, that I just created a simple text stamp, for which I had no difficulties at all to save to .STL.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7616" LastActivityDate="2017-06-29T14:21:23.047" Title="Unable to export all objects to a STL in AutoCAD" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4306" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4305" CreationDate="2017-06-29T14:21:23.047" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Based on your error messages, it's likely you have created a non-manifold 3D object. As a simple example, let's start with a cube as suggested in your question. To keep things simple, you want to add a cylinder to the cube. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In other programs, one would create a sketch on the surface of that cube and extrude the circle into a cylinder. Because the circle is constructed on the surface, it become an integrated part of the model.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you had created the cylinder independently, which can be done in AutoCAD and placed it on the surface of the cube, the resulting model would appear to be the same as the one created above.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The placement method may have resulted in the end of the cylinder &quot;penetrating&quot; the surface of the cube. Such a model may generate the face-face error you've received.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The quantity reference you've provided in your question indicates that the problem is contained in more than one intersection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have patience, you can return to the original model and attempt to locate piercings or penetrations and adjust the locations to be joined properly. Selecting a wireframe view may assist you in those efforts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another option would be to import your .STL file into a program such as Meshmixer to attempt an automatic repair. Under Analysis/Inspector, errors will appear with flags which can be clicked to perform a repair.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Severe errors in construction, such as the one you describe, are more likely to destroy the model when using this method, however.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastActivityDate="2017-06-29T14:21:23.047" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4307" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4312" CreationDate="2017-06-29T20:10:08.590" Score="1" ViewCount="391" Body="&lt;p&gt;Building a 3-D printer is obviously a huge undertaking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know of any reasonably cheap guides to build my own 3-D printer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7619" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2019-01-17T22:00:48.997" LastActivityDate="2019-02-07T02:33:58.330" Title="Building a 3-D printer" Tags="|diy-3d-printer|printer-building|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4308" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4309" CreationDate="2017-06-29T20:54:06.170" Score="2" ViewCount="233" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was adjusting the position of our projector to allow for bigger prints to be generated.  I encountered a problem that at larger distances, our prints are not seeming to adhere as desired.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does the inverse square law of light apply to DLP projectors?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am aware that the inverse-square law only is 100% applicable when you have a point as your light source.  But I assume close to the same holds constant for other real world light sources.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unless DLP projectors compensate for distance with their power output. Is this the case?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cross-Post: @ &lt;a href=&quot;https://physics.stackexchange.com/questions/342153/inverse-square-law-and-how-it-applies-to-projectors&quot;&gt;Physics.SE&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7445" LastEditorUserId="98" LastEditDate="2017-07-02T18:12:57.760" LastActivityDate="2017-07-02T18:12:57.760" Title="Does the Inverse-Square law apply with SLA Printing?" Tags="|print-quality|sla|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4309" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4308" CreationDate="2017-06-29T22:36:43.177" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, of course it does. The same amount of light is being spread across a wider area, so there's less light per area. Once you're past a few 10's of filament diameters, a point source is a highly accurate representation of most light bulbs. Even more so when there's a lens setup that causes the light to go through a point focus.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6853" LastActivityDate="2017-06-29T22:36:43.177" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4310" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4317" CreationDate="2017-06-29T22:37:19.573" Score="2" ViewCount="144" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know nothing about 3D printing and I was wondering if it is a good candidate for what I want to make.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to make a custom game cartridge which looks like this:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/k0RpQ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/k0RpQ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically it's like a SD card in a custom shell. Now I can produce the inside as a thin PCB (0.6mm-1mm). But I was wondering what the best (and cheapest) way to prototype (and maybe make a small run production) the outer shell would be. The entire cart is about 2mm thick, so each half of the shell would be at most ~0.6mm thick.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this something I can do with a typical 3D printer? How would I &quot;attach&quot; the two halves together?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7620" LastActivityDate="2017-08-18T18:59:30.407" Title="3D printing for storage card shell?" Tags="|rapid-prototyping|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4311" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4307" CreationDate="2017-06-30T04:11:03.137" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you just want to build your own, get a kit.  There are several out there.  Most kits take from 1-5 days to complete depending on the kit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to design your own is quite a different story.  The effort is totally dependent on how much you want to do yourself.  My guess is the statement that you don't know the amount of effort indicates that you are probably not ready to design your own.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6417" LastActivityDate="2017-06-30T04:11:03.137" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4312" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4307" CreationDate="2017-06-30T04:22:52.110" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Building a 3-D printer is actually very easy, assuming that you are electronically and mechanically competent, and there are a whole bunch of websites devoted to doing just that. The principal of which would be the &lt;a href=&quot;http://reprap.org/wiki/Main_Page&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;RepRapWiki&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a number of different designs, mostly from a few basic designs:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cartesian&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Delta&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Polar&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Scara&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Take a look at &lt;a href=&quot;https://all3dp.com/know-your-fdm-3d-printers-cartesian-delta-polar-and-scara/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;3D Printers Explained: Delta, Cartesian, Polar, Scara&lt;/a&gt;, for further details.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I, personally, would suggest looking at the following 3D printer designs (although there are many more out there):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://reprap.org/wiki/Prusa_i3&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Prusa i3&lt;/a&gt; (arguably the most common/popular), or its derivative the &lt;a href=&quot;http://reprap.org/wiki/P3Steel&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;P3Steel&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://reprap.org/wiki/Category:Wilson_II&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Wilson II&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://reprap.org/wiki/Kossel&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Kossel&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the web, i.e. eBay/Amazon, there are plenty of ready assembled versions, DIY kits, or you can source all of the individual parts yourself. I seriously recommend reading this question &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/409/what-are-the-pros-and-cons-of-collecting-parts-yourself-versus-getting-a-diy-ki&quot;&gt;What are the pros and cons of collecting parts yourself, versus getting a DIY kit and then modifying it?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would strongly suggest that you do a &lt;em&gt;lot&lt;/em&gt; of googling, and read around the subject for a couple of weeks: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Reading other peoples blogs;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Watching construction videos on YouTube to get a better understanding, and;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Going through the issues that other people have experienced whilst building there own printers&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Doing this will help you glean a greater understanding of what is required, and what to expect when building yours - as well as getting an understanding of the individual parts required and how they all fit together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Spending a fair bit of time on this site, SE 3D Printing, and slowly going through the questions and answers is also strongly recommended.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Building your own printer is, ultimately, more rewarding that purchasing a ready built one. This is because, due to its nascent nature of 3D printing, the printer that you purchase &lt;em&gt;will&lt;/em&gt;, most likely, go wrong, and you will need to fix it. If you have built it yourself then you &lt;em&gt;should&lt;/em&gt; be able to easily understand what is wrong, and then be capable of repairing it yourself. It is somewhat similar to the situation when the automobile first became popular, back in the 20's/30's (?) - the driver was, usually, also a mechanically competent engineer (unless they were filthy rich and were able to afford to pay a dedicated mechanic to accompany them - which was also the case, in those days). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4762" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2017-06-30T04:55:57.307" LastActivityDate="2017-06-30T04:55:57.307" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4314" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4310" CreationDate="2017-06-30T06:08:18.827" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;With the experience I have with my 3d printer you can make (almost) everything you can draw with it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;0.6mm parts can be 3d printed but will not be very strong though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For joining the 2 halves when they are so thin, I think the best solution is to glue them together. With the things I make for myself I mostly use small screws or small nuts and bolts but with 0.6mm parts I guess this wil not be possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6812" LastActivityDate="2017-06-30T06:08:18.827" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4315" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4339" CreationDate="2017-06-30T06:35:09.927" Score="4" ViewCount="1812" Body="&lt;p&gt;As far as I know resin trays have a Teflon coat that allows prints to stick to the build plate easier than the resin tray but this Teflon coat wears over time.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am new to the SLA scene and am currently troubleshooting a Draken Facture and trying to hone in my setting but my print keep sticking to the bottom of the resin vat.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How often should these trays be swapped out to allow for smooth printing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7445" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-11-08T15:59:44.240" LastActivityDate="2018-11-08T15:59:44.240" Title="What is the lifespan of a SLA Resin Tray?" Tags="|maintenance|sla|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4317" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4310" CreationDate="2017-06-30T17:27:34.953" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Typically, for FDM, the resolution is different for height compared with the x-y plane.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In x-y, you will be constrained by the nozzle diameter (0.4mm is common), which effectively quantises your wall thickness (0.4, 0.8, 1.2 etc). These walls can be placed with maybe 0.05mm precision.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In Z, the constraint is to be less than the nozzle, so 0.12 or 0.2 mm is common.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So you can easily make a half which is around 1mm thick, with a 0.3mm high wall. You would want the majority of the wall width to be 0.8 or 1.2 mm at least, but you could probably arrange an overlap between the two parts to allow some tolerance and increase the glueing area.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A flat print of only a single layer is possible, but it won't be as accurately dimensioned (due to bed-leveling accuracy). A single layer with a wall would work, but might be too flexible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4927" LastActivityDate="2017-06-30T17:27:34.953" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4319" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4315" CreationDate="2017-07-01T00:24:45.650" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I did some research and the life of the resin and resin tray appears to be dependent on how you use it.  For example, regarding the resin, 3dfacture states &lt;a href=&quot;http://3dfacture.com/faq/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&quot;We see almost unlimited shelf life of the resin as long as it is kept out of light&quot;&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know you asked about the tray and not the resin; but, the two are inter-coupled to the same fundamental issue.  Their lifespan is highly operational dependent.  If your printer operates in an environment that have very low ambient UV, the tray will have to be cleaned less because of less resin buildup and replacement and thus less wear.  Other factors come into play as well regarding cleaning procedures, usage amount, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think if you want a number you are going to have to run your own experiment in your own environment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6417" LastActivityDate="2017-07-01T00:24:45.650" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4323" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4103" CreationDate="2017-07-01T13:00:34.990" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;My Anet A8 has a concave bed, which is a defect. Check if yours has the same defect by putting a long ruler on its edge on the bed and look for a gap between it and the bed in the middle. If you find a gap then it is concave. The best solution is to put a piece of glass on the bed instead of blue tape, because glass is very flat. It will also help a lot with bed adhesion. I highly recommend this mod.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7362" LastActivityDate="2017-07-01T13:00:34.990" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4324" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3732" CreationDate="2017-07-01T19:59:51.020" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think they removed it because it was inefficient (pretty slow). Still, I just started 3D printing and was a bit disappointed a seemingly easy task needed an other software (Meshmixer) to be achieved.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7636" LastActivityDate="2017-07-01T19:59:51.020" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4325" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1463" CreationDate="2017-07-01T22:32:46.140" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;After watching the video, it looks this is a Bowden style extruder.  The extruder assembly is encased in the black box the OP mentions.  The assembly is user removable.  It appears they also include two cleaning tools&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Small (0.4mm?) wire to clean the nozzle tip&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Large (1.7mm?) rod for pushing filament down that is stuck in the cold end&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It appears the OP tried accessing the filament in the cold end by removing the fitting at the top of the assembly without opening the assembly.  Unfortunately that caused the nut holding the fitting on from the inside fell off.  At that point he was in a bit of a mess.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I believe the manufacture's intent is to &quot;ram&quot; any broken pieces in the cold end through the hot extruder by using the provided rod and pushing while the extruder is on.  It seems that it should work but would not be easy to do if the filament broke off outside the extruder (which seems to be the case).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the point he left it, it would seem that he would either have to do surgery or replace the extruder assembly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6417" LastActivityDate="2017-07-01T22:32:46.140" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4326" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-07-02T05:32:47.887" Score="3" ViewCount="1846" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought some heating block cotton to insulate the exposed surface of my hot end.  I thought the yellow as double-sticky but it appears to be Kapton.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What can I use to attach it to the extruder?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9FFOY.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9FFOY.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My extruder is already covered on four sides.  I want to cover the other two.&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VLyKX.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VLyKX.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6417" LastEditorUserId="6417" LastEditDate="2017-07-03T14:12:29.873" LastActivityDate="2018-09-30T20:50:34.093" Title="How to attach insulation to Hot End" Tags="|extruder|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4327" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4267" CreationDate="2017-07-02T07:24:49.500" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Thanks for everyone's help. So after playing around with the G-Code and trying to set the temperatures manually, I came across a post by a user who said that Cura will automatically include code for the temperatures regardless of your g-code. So I deleted the m140 and m104 lines and now it works great!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am also going to take a second to rant about how difficult it is to find information on this g-code business. It seems that the language, which should be standardized, is different depending on the slicer that you use. What is the deal?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7536" LastActivityDate="2017-07-02T07:24:49.500" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4329" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-07-02T14:39:53.450" Score="5" ViewCount="1709" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yesterday i replaced the z axis of my diy printer. Now i have some strange waves on the side of my prints. Are the threaded rods bent or could that be a vibration issue? Or is the coupler too stiff?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IbumF.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IbumF.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Qo32X.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Qo32X.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7646" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2019-07-18T07:43:02.220" LastActivityDate="2019-09-18T02:02:10.223" Title="print quality: z wobble issue" Tags="|print-quality|diy-3d-printer|z-axis|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4330" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4334" CreationDate="2017-07-02T20:18:50.810" Score="2" ViewCount="1950" Body="&lt;p&gt;My Anet A8 frame are broken. I find frame project &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2263216&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;AM8 - Metal Frame for Anet A8&lt;/a&gt;. I like it but I can't find aluminum extrusion needed, like this: &lt;a href=&quot;https://us.misumi-ec.com/vona2/detail/110302684350/?Inch=0&amp;amp;CategorySpec=00000042730%3A%3A20x40&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;MiSUMi - Aluminum Extrusion - 5 series, Base 20, 20mm x 40mm&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maybe somebody knows where I can buy it in Ukraine? Or maybe another frame options?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7648" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-07-08T11:49:57.540" LastActivityDate="2019-04-18T19:17:02.887" Title="Anet A8 frame replacement" Tags="|diy-3d-printer|anet-a8|hardware|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4331" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4326" CreationDate="2017-07-03T01:32:00.190" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Kapton tape would be the logical material. It's unfortunate that your vendor did not supply that as a separate item, rather than sticking it to the &quot;cotton&quot; (I'm guessing not actually cotton, as things might get a bit scorching for cotton, so I'm assuming some type of ceramic fiber or the like.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6853" LastActivityDate="2017-07-03T01:32:00.190" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4332" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4348" CreationDate="2017-07-03T15:49:00.163" Score="4" ViewCount="897" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've gone on quite a few sites (thingiverse, grabcad, etc) in search for a coiled tube, but I have yet to find anything suitable. There are a few coils (&quot;springs&quot;) but no coiled tubes (i.e. the springs are hollow). Maybe my searching hasn't been good enough! But I was wondering if this is a limitation to 3D printing models? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7657" LastActivityDate="2019-07-18T03:04:45.147" Title="Is it possible in any 3D printing software to create a coiled tube?" Tags="|3d-design|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4333" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4332" CreationDate="2017-07-03T15:57:28.167" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, this is not a limitation. You should be able to create a coiled tube in almost every 3D design software package. However, how to do this depends on the specific 3D design software in use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'd generally do so by creating a cross-sectional profile (i.e. a hollow circle) and then sweeping it along a helical path. Another option is to first create a spring/coil, and then hollow it out (some CAD packages have a tool/command for this, usually called &quot;shell&quot;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastActivityDate="2017-07-03T15:57:28.167" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4334" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4330" CreationDate="2017-07-03T20:14:53.707" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are lots of online sources for T-slot aluminum extrusions from &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.ebay.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;ebay&lt;/a&gt; to &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.mcmaster.com/#t-slotted-framing/=18c9twv&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;McMaster&lt;/a&gt;.  If you want more options do a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/search?q=t-slot%20aluminum%20extrusion&amp;amp;rlz=1C1GNAM_enUS688US688&amp;amp;oq=t-slot%20a&amp;amp;aqs=chrome.2.69i57j0l5.6487j0j7&amp;amp;sourceid=chrome&amp;amp;ie=UTF-8&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Google Search&lt;/a&gt;.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OSerK.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OSerK.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6417" LastActivityDate="2017-07-03T20:14:53.707" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4335" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4332" CreationDate="2017-07-04T01:51:15.310" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EWIOa.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EWIOa.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Openscad Proof of concept&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;// Openscad proof of concept&#xA;$fn=90;&#xA;&#xA;linear_extrude(height = 50, center = true, convexity = 10, twist = -1000)&#xA;translate([10, 0, 0])&#xA;&#xA;difference()&#xA;{&#xA;    circle(r = 3);&#xA;    circle(r = 2);&#xA;}&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1397" LastActivityDate="2017-07-04T01:51:15.310" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4337" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4338" CreationDate="2017-07-04T16:20:08.520" Score="1" ViewCount="130" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just designed a robot in blender, and whenever I print it, it goes horribly wrong. The first print was laying down, I had supports on, Then it started to print the arm, starting with the bottom of a sphere, and the supports caused it to fly off. The second time, I printed it standing up, with supports, and the arm didn't even print, PLA got all over my build plate. How would I print this successfully? Sideways like this? &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gvn4j.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gvn4j.png&quot; alt=&quot;maybe?&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I uploaded the model to Thingiverse last night, Here's the link: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2417504&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2417504&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7671" LastEditorUserId="7671" LastEditDate="2017-07-04T16:27:46.570" LastActivityDate="2017-07-04T17:08:55.980" Title="Print not coming out good" Tags="|3d-models|ultimaker-cura|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4338" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4337" CreationDate="2017-07-04T17:08:55.980" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Based on your description of the print failures, it appears that the problem is not specific to the model. If printing supports is causing parts of the model to &quot;fly off,&quot; there may be a temperature problem or a speed problem or a combination of the two. If you have a new filament type, it may be necessary to perform test model prints to ensure you are using good settings for the filament. If you are using old filament, it may be necessary to print test models with no complex shapes to ensure that your filament will still function properly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You say that &quot;PLA got all over your build plate.&quot; This is another indication of a problem not related to the model position or model design or orientation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastActivityDate="2017-07-04T17:08:55.980" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4339" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4315" CreationDate="2017-07-04T18:58:45.320" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It depends on tray and resin type you are using.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;PDMS&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are using PDMS (eg. sylgard 184) coating for your tray. (B9 and similar printers using this type of tray). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Life of tray PDMS coating depends mainly on:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How long you print without breathing floor.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How reactive is your resin.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could get 2 3 prints up to 15 20 prints.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is suitable for printing delicate pieces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;FEP&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Large number of manufacturers using FEP.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Life of tray largely depends on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Thickness of FEP&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Piece sizes and movement speed during early layers.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Usually you could use same tray for couple of hundreds of prints. &#xA;Optical quality is not comparable to other alternatives but without human error factor you could get almost unlimited prints. Delicate pieces require tough resin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Teflon&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is halfway between PDMS and FEP.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are other tray alternatives:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Envision uses special glass you could print on average 50 prints.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Carbon 3D uses super expensive oxygen-permeable window.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5007" LastActivityDate="2017-07-04T18:58:45.320" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4340" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-07-04T20:17:13.317" Score="1" ViewCount="1143" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a line drawing and I would like to print it a couple of mm high. I cannot figure out how to get this line drawing filled. I converted to SVG with Inkscape, used GIMP, took it online to TinkerCad and tried it with Onshape but all I ever get is just the line and this does not work well on my printer. What is a smart way to get this filled in and ready to go?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I use TinkerCad to convert to STL and that works fine. So I could also try to edit the STL in stead of the SVG file.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maybe I should print the original scanned image (TIFF) and then fill it by hand with black ink and then scan it and convert it to SVG but that sounds really dumb.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qzDoY.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qzDoY.png&quot; alt=&quot;should be SVG&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;UPDATE&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I went back to the original drawing and using the bucket tool. The result is a rather noisy image and I need it to be sharp and tight to be able to convert it to a good SVG later on.&#xA;Looks like it is more of a graphics design question now..&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://graphicdesign.stackexchange.com/questions/94773/from-drawing-to-3d-print&quot;&gt;https://graphicdesign.stackexchange.com/questions/94773/from-drawing-to-3d-print&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jakBT.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jakBT.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7674" LastEditorUserId="7674" LastEditDate="2017-07-10T19:28:05.453" LastActivityDate="2017-07-10T19:28:05.453" Title="fill in svg or stl design" Tags="|3d-design|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4341" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4340" CreationDate="2017-07-04T22:46:12.047" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you don't mind adding another tool to your toolbox, you can use a plug-in for Inkscape called &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:14221&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Inkscape OpenSCAD DXF Export&lt;/a&gt; that will convert your SVG drawing to appropriate code to import to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.openscad.org/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;OpenSCAD&lt;/a&gt;. Even if you aren't keen on learning OpenSCAD, once you have the code, press F5 for a preview, F6 for a rendering and then export the STL file.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The link on Thingiverse gives instructions how to add the plug-in (extension) to Inkscape, which is relatively simple. I've been using the extension for applicable projects with great success. Expect minor complications for closed paths within other paths, however. You may have to create separate STL files for those paths and use Boolean subtraction to remove the &quot;holes&quot; as needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NpFF2.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NpFF2.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Inkscape OpenSCAD DXF image&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The extension is slightly counter-intuitive. Be sure to manually add the .scad extension to the file as it does not perform that task automatically.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;UPDATE: I have discovered that the above link is not the one I've been using. I'm leaving it in place as it may be useful to others to have the ability to create .DXF files from Inkscape. The correct one is called &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:25036&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Inkscape to OpenSCAD converter v6&lt;/a&gt; and works as described above.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As always, read and follow all label instructions. Do not operate heavy machinery after using this product.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rHHru.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rHHru.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Inkscape to OpenSCAD&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastActivityDate="2017-07-04T22:46:12.047" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4343" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="371" CreationDate="2017-07-05T17:33:01.373" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can check for shortened nozzle length using a set of feeler gauges to measure the gap from bed to nozzle. &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Feeler_gauge&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Feeler_gauge&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7394" LastActivityDate="2017-07-05T17:33:01.373" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4344" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4340" CreationDate="2017-07-06T05:31:26.100" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Free 3D printing program &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.nanodlp.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;NanoDLP&lt;/a&gt; does support extruding single image frame to 3D object in required height. You can use Windows or Linux version of the program.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5007" LastActivityDate="2017-07-06T05:31:26.100" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4345" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4347" CreationDate="2017-07-06T05:48:16.157" Score="0" ViewCount="2214" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a question. I have a dual extruder printer and I want to try using HIPS for printing. Can I use PLA as my main material and HIPS for supports?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Searching online I found combinations of ABS + HIPS mentioned. No where is it mentioned that It can be used. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2176" LastActivityDate="2017-07-06T11:29:34.307" Title="Using HIPS as support for PLA printing?" Tags="|pla|support-material|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4346" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-07-06T06:59:00.280" Score="3" ViewCount="993" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I have been going through modding my printer and I have come across a new problem that I have not had issues with before.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My 3D printer will start to print above the heating bed even though it gets properly homed all the endstops. At first it was off by half of the whole Z-axis distance using Cura and off by 0.5 mm on MatterControl. Since playing around with random settings in both programs, my printer now seems to only be off by 0.25 mm from the heating bed. None of the settings appear to be affecting anything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My guess is something both programs remembered was off and now it's been corrected to a degree?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Homed at endstops:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qLpRQm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Homed at endstop&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qLpRQm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Homed at endstop&quot; title=&quot;Homed at endstop&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Homed to a papers width above the heating bed:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tjXcAm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Homed to a papers width&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tjXcAm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Homed to a papers width&quot; title=&quot;Homed to a papers width&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here the printer has started to print and it off by 0.25 mm:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AFZqCm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Started to print&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AFZqCm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Started to print&quot; title=&quot;Started to print&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;G-code&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;MatterControl:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5Y4wB.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5Y4wB.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cura:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;M190 S75.000000&#xA;M109 S230.000000&#xA;;Sliced at: Mon 10-07-2017 01:08:42&#xA;;Basic settings: Layer height: 0.1 Walls: 0.4 Fill: 2&#xA;;Print time: 2 hours 18 minutes&#xA;;Filament used: 3.348m 9.0g&#xA;;Filament cost: None&#xA;;M190 S75 ;Uncomment to add your own bed temperature line&#xA;;M109 S230 ;Uncomment to add your own temperature line&#xA;G21        ;metric values&#xA;G90        ;absolute positioning&#xA;M82        ;set extruder to absolute mode&#xA;M107       ;start with the fan off&#xA;G28 X0 Y0  ;move X/Y to min endstops&#xA;G28 Z0     ;move Z to min endstops&#xA;;G1 Z15.0 F6000 ;move the platform down 15mm&#xA;G92 E0                  ;zero the extruded length&#xA;G92 E0                  ;zero the extruded length again&#xA;G1 F6000&#xA;;Put printing message on LCD screen&#xA;M117 Printing...&#xA;&#xA;;Layer count: 381&#xA;;LAYER:0&#xA;M107&#xA;G0 F6000 X96.660 Y119.366 Z0.100&#xA;G0 X96.978 Y119.129&#xA;;TYPE:SKIRT&#xA;G1 F1200 X97.452 Y118.764 E0.00995&#xA;G1 X97.921 Y118.508 E0.01883&#xA;G1 X98.363 Y118.264 E0.02723&#xA;G1 X98.699 Y118.142 E0.03318&#xA;G1 X98.699 Y118.143 E0.03319&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Further down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;;LAYER:1&#xA;M106 S63&#xA;G0 X111.565 Y151.164 Z0.200&#xA;;TYPE:WALL-OUTER&#xA;G1 F1920 X111.415 Y151.002 E40.19917&#xA;G1 X110.919 Y150.231 E40.21441&#xA;G1 X110.689 Y149.702 E40.22401&#xA;G1 X110.553 Y149.385 E40.22974&#xA;G1 X110.226 Y148.153 E40.25094&#xA;G1 X109.962 Y146.354 E40.28118&#xA;G1 X109.635 Y143.890 E40.32251&#xA;G1 X109.603 Y143.683 E40.32600&#xA;G1 X108.787 Y143.726 E40.33959&#xA;G1 X108.787 Y143.930 E40.34298&#xA;G1 X108.518 Y146.454 E40.38519&#xA;G1 X108.184 Y148.175 E40.41434&#xA;G1 X107.746 Y149.645 E40.43985&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="635" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:29:41.667" LastActivityDate="2017-07-10T11:22:25.427" Title="Prusa I3 starting print above heating bed?" Tags="|prusa-i3|marlin|printer-building|prusa-i3-rework|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ClosedDate="2017-08-03T07:13:11.447" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4347" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4345" CreationDate="2017-07-06T11:29:34.307" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can as PLA is not affected by Limonene (the chemical used to dissolve the HIPS) but it is not recommended as the print temperatures for each material (~180C for PLA and ~230C for HIPS) are quite far apart and the PLA may not stick to the HIPS.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A better choice would be PVA which prints ~185C and dissolves in water but this material has its own set of fun issues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*Temperatures are estimates, different vendors may have different temperatures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="233" LastActivityDate="2017-07-06T11:29:34.307" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4348" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4332" CreationDate="2017-07-06T18:32:08.590" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I managed to do it in the end using AutoDesk 123D.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/izeeR.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/izeeR.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Did it by making two coils of differing radius, then subtracting the smaller from the larger. I made each coil using the instructions found here:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/KfXV0mfy7XY?start=0&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So there we go...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Printed it out just now without supports - in the orientation shown - and it came out fine. Used a brim, though (don't want it rolling away!) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7657" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-07-18T03:04:45.147" LastActivityDate="2019-07-18T03:04:45.147" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4349" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-07-07T10:20:29.270" Score="3" ViewCount="76" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am trying to find research articles that have data on how particulates(metal powder in a paste/hydrogel affect the viscosity of the paste/hydrogel. But I have been coming up blank in my last few hours of research. Is anyone aware of any research papers that discuss this and could point me towards them please? thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7696" LastEditorUserId="26" LastEditDate="2017-07-07T10:33:27.037" LastActivityDate="2017-07-11T14:47:30.693" Title="Effect of particulates on the viscosity of paste that is used to transport it in extrusion printing" Tags="|extrusion|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4350" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-07-09T00:39:09.840" Score="4" ViewCount="1159" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently installed SkyNet3D V1.1 on my Anet A8 printer. When I prepare the printer and select &quot;auto home&quot; it moves the head close to the upper right hand side of the bed. How do I change these settings so the printer auto homes to the center of the bed? Any help is appreciated. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7485" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-10-01T21:57:04.430" LastActivityDate="2018-10-01T21:57:04.430" Title="SkyNet3D firmware home settings" Tags="|marlin|anet-a8|firmware|skynet3d|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4351" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4346" CreationDate="2017-07-09T10:09:29.290" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Try setting your &quot;First Layer Height&quot; to 0. This should resolve the issue and will make homing your Z axis a bit easier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7717" LastActivityDate="2017-07-09T10:09:29.290" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4352" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3973" CreationDate="2017-07-10T13:56:36.007" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently purchased and assembled the Anycubic Kossel Delta printer and ran into the same issues. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found that if I tried to connect with &quot;COM 1&quot; first, it would error out, then when I switched to &quot;COM 4&quot; (the correct port), it connected. Weird, I know, but it works.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7725" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2017-07-10T14:27:29.840" LastActivityDate="2017-07-10T14:27:29.840" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4353" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4377" CreationDate="2017-07-11T01:08:27.473" Score="10" ViewCount="38423" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been working with our SLA printer (Facture Draken) for a couple weeks now printing in makerjuice waxcast.  .  I have had some successful prints, but the majority (80%) end up as  pancakes stuck to the bottom of the resin tray. Some others break in half mid print.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have experimented with laying my models (round circular diks) flat on the build plate, but most of the times I place them on supports which stem from a square baseplate.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems clear to me that there is allot of force being put on the models while curing on the bottom of the resin tray.  I have noticed that printing objects with a larger projection area are more likely to stick in the vat.  I assume this is because of the increased contact with the tray.  Usually it seems ~10 layers are built before my baseplate breaks away.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Things I have tried&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pulling out the build plate, cleaning it with Acetone.  Sanding it with 80 grit sandpaper.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Emptying the resin tray and replacing with new resin.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Upping base-layer cure-time from from 30seconds up to 3 minutes, and variations between.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Upping base-layer count from 2 to 4.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rotating model base 45% to start the tray peel process from a corner rather than from a long edge to reduce initial tear force.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyone with experience got more suggestions on how to continue troubleshooting?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7445" LastEditorUserId="7445" LastEditDate="2017-07-11T06:06:54.087" LastActivityDate="2021-05-22T19:32:13.333" Title="SLA prints not sticking to build plate" Tags="|build-plate|sla|troubleshooting|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4354" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4349" CreationDate="2017-07-11T14:47:30.693" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found a journal article &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S0032591014005014&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&quot;Experimental study of the viscosity of suspensions&quot;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;that looks like what you are looking for.  Just like most journals, it costs to access it. Also, it might be available as Open Access; but, I was not able to figure out how.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6417" LastActivityDate="2017-07-11T14:47:30.693" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4355" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-07-11T16:28:43.033" Score="-4" ViewCount="615" Body="&lt;p&gt;What are the basic necessities needed to build a 3d printing machine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Workforce&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Technology&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Money&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;etc.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm an undergrad and my friends and I would like to make a printer for a project. We wanted to get an idea of the prerequisites for this work. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7734" LastEditorUserId="6417" LastEditDate="2017-07-12T11:11:51.033" LastActivityDate="2019-04-09T17:03:12.777" Title="What are the basic requirements to make a 3d printing machine?" Tags="|3d-models|software|electronics|print-material|mechanics|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2017-07-12T18:11:05.150" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4356" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4293" CreationDate="2017-07-11T16:50:14.563" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;A possible problem could be with the filament itself. If the filament is significantly out of round, then it's possible that the thinner radius of the filament is too small for the extruder and the gear can't get a good bite to push it through. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had a similar problem with a Monoprice Select v2 (Prusa i3 clone) and it turned out that my 1.75mm filament was an ellipse of 1.85mm x 1.60mm. I too only noticed it when the printer was running at higher speeds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5514" LastActivityDate="2017-07-11T16:50:14.563" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4357" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-07-11T19:10:49.157" Score="1" ViewCount="143" Body="&lt;p&gt;3D printing is becoming more and more populated during the last few years. But still, only a few group of people can access the 3D printer and know how to use it. So it is reasonable to deploy 3D printing on the cloud, so that almost everyone can access it and finish their job in a few steps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically, there are 3 types of service on the cloud, which are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Iaas&lt;/strong&gt; - Infrastructure as a Service;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;PaaS&lt;/strong&gt; - Platform as a Service;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;SaaS&lt;/strong&gt; - Service as a service.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems we can deploy 3D printing on all of these models. But specifically, what's the advantage to deploying 3D printing on IaaS? Under what condition we should use IaaS?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7737" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2017-07-12T18:10:17.790" LastActivityDate="2017-08-11T18:43:55.787" Title="What's the advantage to deploy 3D printing on IaaS" Tags="|diy-3d-printer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4358" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4355" CreationDate="2017-07-12T01:08:41.453" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a pretty vague question.  First of all you have to ask what kind of 3D printer you want to make, what do you want to be able to print (size/resolution?) what tools/resources you have access to, how much you want to spend vs how much time you want to build.  The more time and money you put into the thing the better your final results will be.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.instructables.com/id/Custom-Delta-3D-Printer-named-PACA/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;These guys&lt;/a&gt; built a pretty decent looking delta model for ~$170.  Seems pretty reasonable.  Deltas are pretty simple to put together and allow for a good build size.  Building yours from scratch gives you total control over materials used, which means durability and price is in your hands. You will need to think about the following steps. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Research&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Design&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Materials/Hardware (acquiring, fabricating)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Coding/Software (choose a flavor)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Troubleshooting/Failing&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;First Print&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you care less about the experience of building and more about getting a working printer, there are plenty of build kits.  These will give you all the essential pieces and instructions to follow. Prices range from \$100 to \$1000, from what I have seen.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do some research in your region, if you are in a city, there may a collective or club where they specialize in this stuff.  I know where I am in Portland there is a workspace where they actually give classes where everyone builds their own Delta model printers.  Finding enthusiasts in your area can be a great way to get parts pointers, as well as inspiration.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7445" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2019-04-09T17:03:12.777" LastActivityDate="2019-04-09T17:03:12.777" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4359" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4355" CreationDate="2017-07-12T01:54:52.127" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It really depends on what you mean by &amp;quot;make a 3d printing machine&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You could buy and assemble an &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fused_deposition_modeling&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;FDM&lt;/a&gt; printer kit.  This is &amp;quot;making&amp;quot; in the same way you can &amp;quot;make&amp;quot; a cake.  This is low cost and little experience is required.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My 15yo son built the TronXY X3 kit I bought for $200.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nxDJVs.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nxDJVs.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;.  There are &lt;a href=&quot;https://all3dp.com/1/best-cheap-diy-3d-printer-kit/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;lots of kits&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You could design your own FDM printer from stock parts.  This is also pretty easy to do with minimal mechanical experience.  Its pretty much just 4-5 stepper motors (X,Y,Z(1/2),extruder), and extruder, some mechanical parts, a power supply. and off the shelf electronics.  Parts are readily available on eBay and &lt;a href=&quot;http://reprap.org/wiki/List_of_Firmware&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;firmware&lt;/a&gt; is available on GitHub.  There are designs available on the internet that you could start from.  Here is a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZoL161UvciA&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;video&lt;/a&gt; one maker made of his build.  This is how the whole industry got started and were often called &lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/wiki/Build_A_RepRap&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;RepRap&lt;/a&gt; printers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You could try building or designing a much complicated style printer (&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ArHUyN5iV68&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;SLA&lt;/a&gt;, DLP, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.instructables.com/id/DIY-SLS-3D-Printer/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;SLS&lt;/a&gt;, etc.).  This would require a bigger commitment with more experience.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6417" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:29:41.667" LastActivityDate="2017-07-12T02:29:33.687" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4360" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4357" CreationDate="2017-07-12T06:15:23.220" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most cloud models are based on virtual rather than physical services.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The closest thing I can think of as &quot;IAAS&quot; in the 3D printing space would be something like &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.3dhubs.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;3DHubs&lt;/a&gt; which connects people that have printer capacity with people that want to print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The whole cloud 3D printing thing seem a bit questionable to how large/viable of a market it really is.  I know there are a LOT of people out there that want to make money off of (or at least defer the cost of) the printer they bought; but, the market seems over-saturated.  Heck, even &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.theupsstore.com/print/3d-printing&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;UPS&lt;/a&gt; does it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All the people that I know that use contract printing already have their own printer but contract out either for more volume, or a different material than they can print with their printer.  At work we have a printer; but, we go outside if we want volume (hundreds of pieces) but are not yet ready to commit to a mold.  When we go outside, we would only consider a trusted vetted supplier - not the cloud.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6417" LastActivityDate="2017-07-12T06:15:23.220" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4361" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-07-12T16:01:13.023" Score="6" ViewCount="1590" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have just ordered some filament samples (each sample is 10m x 1.75mm). How should I test the samples, given that there is only 10 metres of each to play with? Just printing a benchy will use about 4 metres. I would probably want to print a benchy, so that leaves 6 metres to play with. I am mostly interested in producing functional (not decorative) pieces. I do not have a heated bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3953" LastEditorUserId="3953" LastEditDate="2017-07-12T16:20:04.760" LastActivityDate="2018-11-26T12:56:26.477" Title="How should I test filament samples?" Tags="|filament|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4362" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4361" CreationDate="2017-07-12T16:45:40.107" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Select an STL that exhibits characteristics you want to test (bridging, resistance to various pressures) and print it with each material. Preferably, run the &lt;strong&gt;same exact gcode&lt;/strong&gt;, only changing temperatures, so that you get an apples-to-apples comparison.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4922" LastActivityDate="2017-07-12T16:45:40.107" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4363" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4236" CreationDate="2017-07-12T18:14:34.967" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The solution was moving to a glass bed with AquaNet for adhesion, and discovered a partial clog that was causing under extrusion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7466" LastActivityDate="2017-07-12T18:14:34.967" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4364" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4361" CreationDate="2017-07-12T18:36:03.533" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Thomas Sanladerer has an excellent YouTube series called &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLDJMid0lOOYl8TZJV9xHznKFq5yA5ZTi2&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Filaween&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In it he tests and compares filament using a pretty analytical approach.  I think you would learn a lot from the tests he does.  See what type of test most interests you and adapt them for your needs.  Load your test into Cura and you can see how much filament they are going to use.  If needed, trim them back a bit to fit your material limits.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also make sure and also look at Thomas's new video &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nlIFMy4vIeM&amp;amp;t=587s&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Filaween 2.0&lt;/a&gt; where he goes over the filament testing strategies he will be using for this year's filament tests.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to see his results, he has created a &lt;a href=&quot;https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1j9QazgoocuzHxg6qUXevq3dpAmmT2E87089FX6gRgWU/edit#gid=0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;HUGE Wall of Data&lt;/a&gt; of all the filaments he tested:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1j9QazgoocuzHxg6qUXevq3dpAmmT2E87089FX6gRgWU/edit#gid=0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JEWb6m.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Data table&quot; title=&quot;Data table&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6417" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-11-26T12:56:26.477" LastActivityDate="2018-11-26T12:56:26.477" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4365" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4366" CreationDate="2017-07-12T19:45:26.720" Score="2" ViewCount="1788" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I was trying to print 3DBenchy on my new Wanhao i3+. PLA plastic, basic high quality settings in Cura (I guess 0.06 mm layer, 40 mm/s speed, 50c bed temp, 195c extruder temp). I didn't use any tape, just regular wanhao printer mat, which was installed on printer bed from the box.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At some moment when I looked I found things fouled up: object came off from the mat and sticked to the extruder and was moving with it. &#xA;It printed like 3-4 mm of the object (about 50 layers) before this happened.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would like to know what are the main reasons this can happen? And what can I do to prevent this? I think it's very sad when you lose many hour of work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7747" LastEditorUserId="7445" LastEditDate="2017-07-13T06:16:13.977" LastActivityDate="2017-07-13T06:16:13.977" Title="Object got unstuck from printing mat" Tags="|pla|print-quality|troubleshooting|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4366" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4365" CreationDate="2017-07-12T20:35:01.000" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You have to secure your print to the build plate.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One thing that I always do is to use a brim in cura.  prints a single layer which extends in all direction away from your object, adding extra adhesion between your object and the print bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also use a slower extrusion speed for your initial layer but I would use this after trouble shooting everything else since you will be adding time to each print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are using a heated bed make sure that the temperature is set for the correct material.  For PLA i think that is 40C-60C.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We put down a layer of craft/school elmers stick glue before most prints.  This helps a bit with adhering to the build plate, and also seems to allow the prints to pop off a bit easier. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also be sure to double check you Z calibration and your bed level.  If there are inconsistencies and your nozzel moves to far away from you bed, you will be extruding in air and not getting and stickage at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7445" LastActivityDate="2017-07-12T20:35:01.000" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4367" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-07-12T21:53:57.797" Score="5" ViewCount="1716" Body="&lt;p&gt;Testing my new Wanhao i3+. PLA plastic(Wanhao), basic normal quality settings in Cura (I guess 0.1 mm layer, 40 mm/s speed, 60c bed temp, 200c extruder temp). After 1.5 hours of printing quality degraded, it makes some loose structure. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit:&#xA;After finish I noticed that problem exists only in layers where it cycles printing/no printing. There is no problem on layers where it print continuously.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the reason can be and how can I fix that?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/W90dj.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/W90dj.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7747" LastEditorUserId="10404" LastEditDate="2018-07-28T23:53:00.100" LastActivityDate="2018-07-28T23:53:00.100" Title="After 1.5 hours of printing quality degraded" Tags="|pla|print-quality|wanhao|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4368" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-07-13T00:24:03.900" Score="4" ViewCount="1296" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am trying to control a laser with the fan (D9) and ran into problems.&#xA;So I tried P44, no good then P6 also not good.\&#xA;What my problem is I am trying to &quot;burn&quot; a group of vertical lines spaced about 0.75&quot; apart, and randomly the drive to the laser power supply is either &quot;skipping&quot; (missing the control pulse) or stretching the pulse.&#xA;This results in missed burns and/or &quot;streaks&quot; where the laser does not turn off.&#xA;I am using Marlin 1.1.4 on a RAMPS 1.4 board (clone) on an Arduino close also.&#xA;When I am not printing, the pulses are perfect and I can control the pulse width with M42 P6(or 44) S0 (to 255) and it follows just fine.&#xA;It is ONLY while I am printing and the steppers are moving that things go south.&#xA;This also occurs on D9 (fan) and that is why I am trying these other outputs.&#xA;These other outputs use different timers in the 2560 as well.&#xA;I have tried all sorts and combinations of firmware settings, different USB cable and different USB ports on my computer, with no change.&#xA;What might I be missing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7752" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2018-08-16T09:27:42.880" LastActivityDate="2018-08-16T09:28:43.297" Title="Running laser on my printer" Tags="|ramps-1.4|laser|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4369" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4361" CreationDate="2017-07-13T07:51:22.677" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are some simple steps you can write your G-code for that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Filament should have accuracy of diameter 1.75&amp;nbsp;mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Write G-code into file for next test case and run on machine&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;For continue extrusion 100mm at different feed rate &lt;strong&gt;F50&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;code&gt;F100 F150 F200&lt;/code&gt; up to the machine's maximum feedrate G-code for that&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;G91&#xA;G92 E0&#xA;G1 E100 F50&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You have prime and suck parameter for your machine so test it. For example, prime and suck both are 4&amp;nbsp;mm and repeat last two line to continue testing&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;G91&#xA;G92 E0&#xA;G90&#xA;G1 E5 F100&#xA;G1 E1 F100&#xA;G1 E5 F100&#xA;G1 E1 F100&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;This test for continue extrude and wait for 2 sec and then extrude again, repeat following G-code again and again continue&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;G90&#xA;G92 E0&#xA;G1 E10 F100&#xA;G4 P2&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Test prime suck with delay&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;G92 E0&#xA;G90&#xA;G1 E5 F100&#xA;G4 P2&#xA;G1 E1 F100&#xA;G4 P2&#xA;G1 E5 F100&#xA;G4 P2 &#xA;G1 E1 F100     &#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Final is print&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In all of the above tests filament should not getting jammed and, for new material, temperature also may be a problem - so first set temperature for a new material.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Before starting test cases, clean the nozzle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6760" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-11-26T12:54:45.243" LastActivityDate="2018-11-26T12:54:45.243" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4371" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1247" CreationDate="2017-07-13T13:43:25.430" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am using high temperature RTV. I just load it up and smooth it out like frosting a very small cake. I leave the top of the heater block clean and cover it with a piece of cotton insulation. I don't care about power consumption, I just want it to stay hot when the workpiece cooling fan comes on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7760" LastActivityDate="2017-07-13T13:43:25.430" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4372" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-07-13T14:46:02.870" Score="6" ViewCount="1341" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am attempting to replace an SFX power supply of my computer with a PicoPSU. I would like to manufacture a plate to fill the vacant place and to pass through the power lead, and maybe host a power switch and a 60 mm fan.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The thing is, I need to have a material that is ESD safe, i.e. does not collect static electricity. Meaning that the conductivity should be somewhere between 10^(-4)and 10^(-9) if plastic. And also a material that can take screws. So, a metal or some kind of conductive plastic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Question is, are there any known ones?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I will seek out to buy or borrow a 3D printer, I need it to support this choice of material.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7763" LastActivityDate="2017-07-14T07:09:26.817" Title="Are there any non-static (ESD safe) materials to print with?" Tags="|electronics|print-material|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4373" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4368" CreationDate="2017-07-13T14:49:49.230" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Have you checked the supply voltage?&lt;/strong&gt;  With everything turned on (steppers stepping, laser on, etc) you may be pulling too much current and the supply voltage is drooping.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Use DVM to measure the DC voltage.  Also you will need to check for supply ripple. &#xA;For that, either an oscilloscope or use DVM set for AC voltage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6417" LastActivityDate="2017-07-13T14:49:49.230" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4375" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4372" CreationDate="2017-07-14T07:09:26.817" Score="3" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Yes there are ESD Compatible filament materials.  One manufacturer is &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.3dxtech.com/3dxstat-esd-abs-3d-printing-filament/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;3dxtech&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There are also &lt;a href=&quot;http://advancedmanufacturing.org/3d-printed-thermoplastics/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;filament materials that are even more conductive than that&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pretty much all rigid filaments can &quot;take screws&quot;.  You can either have a hole that and let the screw self thread or tap the threads into the hole.  A better option is often to press a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.matterhackers.com/articles/fasteners-for-3d-printing&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;threaded insert&lt;/a&gt; into a hole.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The bigger question is why do you need this?  Are you trying to prevent ESD.  If so, why, are there ESD sensitive components?  If so, just make sure proper spacing is provided.  If you are trying to manage electrical emissions/susceptibility, there might be better solutions such as a coating.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6417" LastActivityDate="2017-07-14T07:09:26.817" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4377" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4353" CreationDate="2017-07-14T20:08:30.463" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Prints could end up on tray for couple of reasons. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Vacuum force on early layers - Usually you should lose pieces on the center of platform&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Put holes or channels on platform&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Very slow speed on early layers&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use smaller platform&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use tilt mechanism&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use larger support structures&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use stickier platform - Anodized aluminum is specially good &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Non-aligned platform - Pieces on side of platform end up on tray &#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Align platform / tray&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Low cure times - you could lose pieces around platform for DLP and whole platform for LCD ones&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Resin related issues&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Resin designed for thinner layers - Decrease layer thickness&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pigment settled down - Shake resin before use&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5007" LastActivityDate="2017-07-14T20:08:30.463" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4378" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4367" CreationDate="2017-07-15T17:29:20.450" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;It definitely looks like under extrusion.&lt;/strong&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;First thing I would check is the filament feeder to make sure it has&#xA;a good grip in the filament.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;After that I would do another print to see if the problem is repeatable.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it doesn't repeat, it may have been &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A temporarily clogged nozzle&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The filament was undersized in that segment and the filament feeder lost its grip.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The extruder got to cold for some reason in that segment and the feeder couldn't push the material through the extruder fast enough.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it does repeat:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Re-inspect the filament feeder&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Try increasing the the extruder temp to say, 225.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Try turning off retraction to see if it is related to those settings.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6417" LastEditorUserId="6417" LastEditDate="2017-07-20T16:08:20.397" LastActivityDate="2017-07-20T16:08:20.397" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4379" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1345" CreationDate="2017-07-15T18:03:52.690" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here is a neat method I came up with:&#xA;- cut both ends diagonally&#xA;- insert them in a piece of heat-shrink tubing, making sure the diagonal cuts overlap&#xA;- protect everything but the overlap with Kapton tape&#xA;- heat the overlap with a heat gun. &#xA;- you will need to monitor and experiment with the temperature. too much heat will deform and bubble the filament, too less heat will  result in a poor join&#xA;- use a multimiter with temperature probe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How it works ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The heat shrink tubing encloses the filament ends and also pushes them together when it shrinks. The diagonal cuts increase the joint area. Results are super strong and seamless joints. You might need to do a little sanding until you establish the right temperature for your setup.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I made a video how to do it :&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/eJeU9lXiQPE&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://youtu.be/eJeU9lXiQPE&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7786" LastEditorUserId="7787" LastEditDate="2017-07-19T11:04:38.117" LastActivityDate="2017-07-19T11:04:38.117" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4380" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4383" CreationDate="2017-07-16T02:05:36.300" Score="2" ViewCount="284" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a TronXY printer (i3 Clone).  It has a 220x220&amp;nbsp;mm heated aluminum bed and I print with a Borosilicate glass plate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a slightly longer print (245&amp;nbsp;mm) I would like to do and I think I could adjust to settings and end stop to stretch the y-dimension travel and I have found a 229x257&amp;nbsp;mm plate.  This would extend over the edge of the aluminum bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will the thermal conduction and mass of the glass plate be sufficient to still keep the bed warm enough?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6417" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-07-08T14:46:18.247" LastActivityDate="2018-07-08T14:46:18.247" Title="Extending TronXY print bed" Tags="|heated-bed|tronxy-x3|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4381" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-07-16T07:27:27.137" Score="11" ViewCount="33261" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there a way to change the direction a motor goes with G-code instead of reconfiguring Marlin firmware?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7772" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-12-30T21:51:07.857" LastActivityDate="2023-06-13T19:16:25.353" Title="Is there a way to invert motor direction with G-code instead of Firmware in Marlin" Tags="|marlin|firmware|stepper|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4382" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-07-16T13:13:18.313" Score="3" ViewCount="108" Body="&lt;p&gt;I currently doing research on 3d printing on circuit boards. The technique we are using is to put a conductive material, I.e ceramics/metal in a gel/polymer, to print the suspension and then when is complete to sinter away the gel/polymer. The problem I am having is the suspension needs to be thixotropic. Furthermore it must have a high viscosity i.e 500 cpa under low shear and to quickly drop to low viscosity as the shear increases&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So far the closest thing I have been able to find is in this &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S0955221909003860&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;paper&lt;/a&gt; but if you look at the graphs none of them have a high enough viscosity and more importantly the drop to low viscosity under increasing shear is too shallow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have tried to use models like the ones in this &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S0377025714001463#s0055&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;paper&lt;/a&gt; but I am finding it quite difficult.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone have any suggestions to find more materials like the one I require? Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7696" LastEditorUserId="26" LastEditDate="2017-08-25T07:26:41.690" LastActivityDate="2017-09-24T07:54:59.703" Title="High-viscosity gel/polymer to suspend conductive material while it is being printed" Tags="|print-material|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4383" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4380" CreationDate="2017-07-16T15:07:10.607" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The aluminum plate is being heated by the heater element although I suspect the element does not encompass the entire area of the aluminum portion. There are going to be cooler spots on the aluminum but not enough to significantly affect the transfer to the glass.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you extend the glass, without a corresponding extension to the aluminum and/or heater element, you are ensuring cooler spots. The glass will be surrounded by air, and begin to conduct some of the heat, certainly, but will also radiate a substantial amount.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are printing with PLA, you may get away with doing this modification. Very little of the heat from the aluminum will reach the glass.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A quick check shows the thermal conductivity of aluminum to be 205 W/m K compared to borosilicate glass at 1.2 W/m K in the range of temperature used for 3D printing. I did not research the rate of energy dissipation for the same range of temperatures, but if it's not too high (unlikely), it would still take forever for the unheated areas of glass to reach temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Consider your extension to be an unheated bed and print accordingly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastActivityDate="2017-07-16T15:07:10.607" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4384" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4368" CreationDate="2017-07-16T15:10:43.167" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a stab in the dark but maybe the Arduino (clone or genuine) and RAMPS1.4 combination is not powerful enough to handle the calculations required to control the laser and printing simultaneously (although I can't really see why the additional processing to control a laser would be over taxing the processor. However your comment about slowing the printing seems to help alleviate the issue, does back up the hypothesis). I have read that the ATmega256, and lesser AVR microcontrollers, can be working at its limits, when controlling a 3D printer and having to deal with arcs, or something that requires complex calculations. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some printer control boards, such as the Smoothie, use different processors (ARM?) in order to supersede these issues. From &lt;a href=&quot;http://hackaday.com/2013/09/06/3d-printering-electronics-boards/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;3D Printering: Electronics boards&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The above boards use AVR microcontrollers. While they work for what they’re intended to do, there are a few limitations. Arcs and circles are a little weird to program, and using these boards for something other than a cartesian 3D printer – a CNC machine, or a laser cutter, for example – is a bit out of the ordinary. The Smoothie board is the solution to these problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, if you have discounted power issues, it could be due to computing power and it &lt;em&gt;may&lt;/em&gt; be worth considering using a different, more powerful, controller?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4762" LastActivityDate="2017-07-16T15:10:43.167" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4385" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-07-16T20:59:21.397" Score="0" ViewCount="348" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm working with a group at the MIT Launch startup accelerator for high school and I was hoping to do some market research regarding some of the current problems with desktop 3D printers. I was hoping to get some feedback from all your experience with 3D printing and the hours of troubleshooting you've likely encountered.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What workarounds and aftermarket modifications are the most useful? If you could change one thing about your printer what would it be? How do you troubleshoot issues and how long does it take? What would make you more likely to 3d print more often (ie never clogged, didn't have to watch first layer, etc)? In your opinion, what are the biggest issues the desktop 3D printing industry faces? Just share any wishes, thoughts, hopes, dreams, etc about 3D printing&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you so much for your time and sharing your experience!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7796" LastActivityDate="2017-07-17T03:52:25.677" Title="Why do 3D Printers Suck? Please share your user experience" Tags="|desktop-printer|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ClosedDate="2017-07-24T08:43:38.487" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4386" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4385" CreationDate="2017-07-16T21:25:42.713" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;First, regarding &lt;strong&gt;&quot;Why do 3D Printers Suck?&quot;&lt;/strong&gt; - The answer is &lt;strong&gt;They Don't!&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Every tool has its limitations and you need to work withing the limitations of the tool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second, there are &lt;strong&gt;A LOT&lt;/strong&gt; of different types/technologies, manufacturers, and price points and all of these have specific limitations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I live in Tigard, OR and both my boys are in High School.  Our High School has a pretty advanced Technologies Department.  We have had a 3D printer for a several years and use it for printing parts for our after school programs (we have three FTC teams, one FRC team, and one (underwater) MATE team).  This last year the school introduced a CAD class and added about 15-20 new Afina printers so that the students can print what they design.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I talked to my sons (they have both used the printers) and they said the only problems they ran into were mistakes they made.  Two examples of that are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Printing with ABS and having it warp (probably bed temp)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Trying to print a design with too thin a wall&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think there is a BIG opportunity for improvement here.  Having a &quot;Slicing&quot; program that doesn't require tweaking and would warn of likely print problems would help A LOT.  I like the idea of the new &lt;a href=&quot;http://prusacontrol.org/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;PrusaControl&lt;/a&gt;.  If this idea could be extended further as &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YYqVhhM7XIc&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Thomas Sanladerer suggested in his video review&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know the Head of Technologies Department (I help mentor several of the after school programs).  He has been responsible for getting printers and I recall he was concerned about more high-level things:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Service, Maintenance and Repair&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fumes (this is a lot of printers in one place with students in the same room)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Network interface and driver compatibility with school computer/network standards.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I believe there is another opportunity here.  If you could provide some sort of a &quot;printer farm&quot; where the students could send their print to the &quot;farm&quot; and then have a highly visible indicator on the selected printer would their name/ID when their print starts.  That way you can get more efficient use of the printers and the space they consume.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6417" LastEditorUserId="6417" LastEditDate="2017-07-17T03:52:25.677" LastActivityDate="2017-07-17T03:52:25.677" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4387" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4382" CreationDate="2017-07-16T23:24:32.673" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The material you are describing sounds very similar to the material used for &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Metal_injection_molding&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Metal Injection Molding&lt;/a&gt; except that you want to print the material rather than molding it.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A company called MarkForged is making a printer called the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.desktop3dprinter.com/3d-printers/markforged-metal-x.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Metal X&lt;/a&gt; that uses this technique of &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V7IsFQLjRNU&amp;amp;t=1s&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;printing &amp;amp; sintering to produce solid metal parts&lt;/a&gt;.  Here is a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.additivemanufacturing.media/articles/markforged-metal-printer-sintering-can-wait&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;article describing more details about the printer&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It sounds really cool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;If you investigate papers around those processes you may find what you are looking for since they are so related to what you are trying to do.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6417" LastEditorUserId="6417" LastEditDate="2017-07-26T06:01:34.500" LastActivityDate="2017-07-26T06:01:34.500" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4388" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4385" CreationDate="2017-07-16T23:34:12.420" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Among the open-source printer community there is a logically based, yet sometimes taken to inappropriate places desire to make printers &quot;self-replicating&quot; either fully, or more commonly &quot;other than a few purchased parts.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In some cases this appears to lead to questionable design choices when some other process or material might be more appropriate to the job at hand. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other than that (and sometimes influenced by it) the usual joys of getting the bed flat, the dimensions accurate, and figuring out the secret to getting the first layer to stick (with the sad realization that this may change somewhat with each new spool of filament - or even over the life of a spool of filament without taking extreme measures to keep it dry.) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the &quot;sure, there probably are packages out there if you have wads of cash&quot; line would be structural analysis that takes into account the printing direction/layers and perhaps even optimizes that (though to optimize it, it would need some user input on what's most important, and that gets tricky with unsophisticated users...) or effectively a &quot;smart slicer&quot; that grasps where strength is needed and how to get it, without too much overkill. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the reverse view, making something and having it break is HIGHLY educational (if treated that way) and that's nothing to sneeze at. But practically speaking I think we end up doing a lot of overkill to try to make sure that things don't break, with limited knowledge of the problems and limited tools available in the slicers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Under pure pipe dreams (such as I understand the actual needs of the process) some type of easier recycling would be nice, as the various things needing to be sorted out lead to a LOT of scrap parts, at least at first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And moving from scrap to &quot;really annoying scrap&quot; - nozzle drool. It's not hands-off on most printers I'm familiar with (which isn't many.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6853" LastActivityDate="2017-07-16T23:34:12.420" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4389" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4485" CreationDate="2017-07-17T00:55:10.760" Score="1" ViewCount="4508" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got a webcam (Logitech ProductID_2470, according to my Mac) attached to my Octopi running on a RPi 3B.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am able to get the video on the Octoprint display page, but the lag is huge: over 50 seconds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I diagnose the problem and reduce this lag time?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6851" LastActivityDate="2017-08-13T02:49:58.550" Title="Octoprint: Reducing Camera Lag Time?" Tags="|octoprint|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4391" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4236" CreationDate="2017-07-17T11:32:32.113" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Check if you have fan turned on for 1st layers. &lt;strong&gt;Cooling fan must be turned off for initial layers&lt;/strong&gt;. That's a mistake I've made.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7805" LastActivityDate="2017-07-17T11:32:32.113" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4392" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4367" CreationDate="2017-07-17T14:21:09.120" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is very likely under extrusion caused by your feeder pressing down too hard onto the filament. If the feeder presses the filament very hard it then gets squished a bit, this is not causing much issues when you're only feeding in one direction as the drive gear is still pulling on fresh filament and shoving the squished part down at a steady rate. BUT once you got retractions things get awful as the squished filament then gets retracted and fed again at the same pace but due to the elongation at a smaller rate of material causing underextrusion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can either trade it in to some overextrusion by adjusting the extra length on restart setting, retract a shorter piece of filament (like only retract half a mm or something) or loosen the feeder so it doesn't squish down on the filament as hard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6982" LastActivityDate="2017-07-17T14:21:09.120" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4393" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4368" CreationDate="2017-07-18T01:46:01.450" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should insert &lt;code&gt;M400&lt;/code&gt; commands before each and every &lt;code&gt;M42&lt;/code&gt; command. The reason is that &lt;code&gt;M42&lt;/code&gt; skip the normal command queue. Each &lt;code&gt;M42&lt;/code&gt; command is processed as soon as it is read, and may be executed well before the G-code (moves) preceding it have actually been executed. Inserting &lt;code&gt;M400&lt;/code&gt; before &lt;code&gt;M42&lt;/code&gt; will ensure that the printer finishes all moves before &lt;code&gt;M42&lt;/code&gt; changes the pin state.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The long &quot;streaks&quot; you're seeing correspond to the printer processing a laser-on command too early, and the missed pulses correspond to processing a laser-off command too early.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastActivityDate="2017-07-18T01:46:01.450" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4394" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3750" CreationDate="2017-07-18T07:18:22.963" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;I ended up buying a TronXY X3 and have had it several months.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;I have seen several videos on the P802 and the X3 so I believe I can answer this question fairly.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Here is what the two printers look like&lt;/strong&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;P802&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5zO6um.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5zO6um.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;P802&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;X3&lt;/strong&gt;   &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tyW8bm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tyW8bm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;X3&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Here is a comparison of the features&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mx6TU.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mx6TU.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Here are my overall impressions:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Both printers are kits and have their assembly challenges&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The X3 is often a little bit (10-20%) more expensive&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The X3 frame is very rigid.  I have heard the the P802 is also rigid.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Acrylic is not as durable long-term (it cracks).  There are Acrylic parts on both printers; but, the Acrylic frame on the P802 would concern me more.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The bed on the X3 can wobble and the P802 doesn't look like it would.&#xA;(Note there are several available modifications to fix the X3 wobble)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The Boden extruder on the X3 makes the filament pull consistent; but, it can make the filament more difficult to feed.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The External Controller box on the X3 can make the printer more difficult to move and it can take up more desk space.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The biggest negative (and likely a show stopper) on the P802 is the unprotected Melzi, Exposed AC connections, and no power switch.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6417" LastActivityDate="2017-07-18T07:18:22.963" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4395" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-07-18T10:36:55.007" Score="6" ViewCount="24620" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can anyone help me find/confirm the information needed to setup the CR-10 in the Cura Software&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have following settings from research:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Printer Settings&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;x =  300&amp;nbsp;mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;y =  300&amp;nbsp;mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;z =  400&amp;nbsp;mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Build Plate = Rectangular&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Machine Center is Zero = Checked&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Heated Bed = Checked&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;G-code Flavor = RepRap (Marlin/Sprinter) &lt;strong&gt;-- Uncertain - please help confirm this&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Print Head Settings&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;X min = &lt;strong&gt;Unclear where this comes from&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Y min = &lt;strong&gt;Unclear where this comes from&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;X max = &lt;strong&gt;Unclear where this comes from&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Y max = &lt;strong&gt;Unclear where this comes from&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Gantry Height = &lt;strong&gt;Unclear where this is measured from&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Number of Extruders = 1&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Material Diameter - 1.75&amp;nbsp;mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Nozzle size = 0.4&amp;nbsp;mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7817" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2018-07-08T14:52:04.423" LastActivityDate="2019-07-18T02:41:10.897" Title="Setup Creality CR-10 in Cura" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|creality-cr-10|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4397" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-07-18T13:27:42.120" Score="4" ViewCount="6810" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am designing a door to put on a small enclosure that will open and close upon pressing a button. The idea is something similar to what you would find on an external DVD reader. My problem is with the actual button I understand I will need to use springs for this but I can not figure out the mechanics of the button.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there 3D-printable, mechanical designs that could fit for this purpose?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7797" LastEditorUserId="115" LastEditDate="2017-07-24T08:40:30.013" LastActivityDate="2017-07-24T08:40:30.013" Title="Mechanics for modelling a push button latch spring" Tags="|3d-design|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4398" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4397" CreationDate="2017-07-18T14:37:05.013" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;A commonly seen method to provide spring action in a 3D printed model is to use a series of curved and straight segments. Some of the designs use the segment assembly in compression, aligned with the plane of the print, while others use the segment assembly for springiness perpendicular to the plane of the print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An example of the latter is a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2238443&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;squishy turtle from Thingiverse&lt;/a&gt; resulting in four legs that provide some bounce to the turtle if dropped from a small height. &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/7YMq4T2ZYYQ?t=11s&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;This video&lt;/a&gt; shows the movement of the legs more clearly, as there were no suitable still photos available on the site.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The image below shows another &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:107959&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;spring type print from Thingiverse&lt;/a&gt; in which the forces are in line with the print plane.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/D1Qk9.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/D1Qk9.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;springy thingy&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The S-curves cannot be too thick or movement will be severely limited, and too thin means impossible to print and possibly reduced lifespan.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many designs abound with a search of the 'net for &quot;3D printed springs.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastActivityDate="2017-07-18T14:37:05.013" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4399" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3973" CreationDate="2017-07-19T05:48:49.110" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know this is coming very late, but I'll post anyway in hopes that it may help somebody else experiencing the same frustration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I received all of the same suggestions again and again on the forums -- about baud rate, COM ports, and a lot else which failed to get Pronterface to connect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At last I posted to the Anycubic User Group on FB, and quickly received what was in my case the solution -- and so ridiculously simple.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was told to hit RESET two or three times on Pronterface after hitting CONNECT.  Yup, that did it!  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck!!  :D&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7826" LastActivityDate="2017-07-19T05:48:49.110" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4401" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-07-19T08:36:11.223" Score="4" ViewCount="249" Body="&lt;p&gt;How do you know when your SLA print tray has lost its non-stick coating?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Are there visible or testable signs you can use to determine it is time to invest in a new resin tray?   &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is it best to count prints and estimate?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7445" LastEditorUserId="6417" LastEditDate="2017-07-28T13:08:28.127" LastActivityDate="2017-07-28T13:08:28.127" Title="How do you know when your SLA resin tray needs to be replaced?" Tags="|maintenance|sla|replacement-parts|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4402" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4401" CreationDate="2017-07-19T12:53:15.237" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Once the non stick coating wears off you'll notice degraded print quality over time and a more agressive sound from the print breaking free when switching layers as the print uses more and more force to break free from the tray with each layer when the non stick coating degrades. The good thing is this will not happen at once so you will start to notice telltale signs previously and you can lessen the wear at specific points of the non stick coating by using different parts of the build platform instead of printing exactly in the center each time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6982" LastEditorUserId="6982" LastEditDate="2017-07-24T08:19:20.940" LastActivityDate="2017-07-24T08:19:20.940" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4403" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1345" CreationDate="2017-07-19T12:57:47.517" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;idea is good and i know for sure many are working on it but if you want this to work smoothly you may need to fix the device (that is joining two filaments) somewhere near your cutter assembly (if any)arranged to cut the filament...this is the another way to perform the task automatically but you can do it separately with devices available to cut and join the two filaments together. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;links below:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://diy3dprinting.blogspot.in/2014/07/fuse-clamp-filament-welding-device-for.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://diy3dprinting.blogspot.in/2014/07/fuse-clamp-filament-welding-device-for.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7830" LastActivityDate="2017-07-19T12:57:47.517" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4404" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4225" CreationDate="2017-07-19T13:58:09.263" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is easily explained - it's the stepper motors getting powered up. Stepper motors even if not moving are constantly powered up and actively hold the position they are in exactly at the stepping point where they are.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you power down the machine or if the board disables the stepper drivers to save energy or because the power is offline then the stepper motors can get in between steps. When powering on then the movement is  quite noticeable on some cheaper motors where the inrushing current can kick the motor over multiple steps before it locks down into position.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can test this, try to move one of the axis manually by hand (not too fast to not damage the board by providing it too much current) if the printer is powered of it does move pretty easily. Then power the printer on, it should still move pretty easily by hand. Now execute one move command on the axis via the printer board. Afterwards you should not be able to move the axis by hand anymore (or at least not without unnecessarily excessive force).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6982" LastActivityDate="2017-07-19T13:58:09.263" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4405" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3513" CreationDate="2017-07-19T14:07:35.043" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your best bet for the material would be one of the high temperature filaments like the ColorFabb HT ones, they can take quite a punch when it comes to heat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for the model, you could try to source one of the grills that is at least as good in shape as possible and get it scanned, there are people offering this as a service for example over at 3dhubs.com&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Glue is really depending on the part, I would suggest creating a click-together type of system so the &quot;glue&quot; is only stabilizing it and not beeing a structural component. You can also get hold of a 3D Pen and weld the parts together with the same material used to print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6982" LastActivityDate="2017-07-19T14:07:35.043" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4406" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4367" CreationDate="2017-07-20T16:33:16.183" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the problem occurs most when you are doing the most advance/retract cycles, the problem is likely with your advance/retract settings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Have you tried cutting each of them in half and executing the same gcode?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4922" LastActivityDate="2017-07-20T16:33:16.183" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4407" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4177" CreationDate="2017-07-20T16:51:34.363" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had a similar problem, my documentation was wrong and the heater &amp;amp; thermistor were wired in backwards. Maybe recheck your wiring and even try reversing the temp sensor on your board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7843" LastActivityDate="2017-07-20T16:51:34.363" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4408" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5" CreationDate="2017-07-20T21:15:40.250" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Basic facts and tips for using and choosing ABS and PLA materials:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Made from:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;ABS: Petroleum based&#xA;&#xA;PLA: Corn or other plants&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Smell: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;ABS: smell of hot plastic, &#xA;&#xA;PLA: gives off a smell similar to a semi-sweet cooking oil. Less intense smell than ABS. &#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Part Accuracy: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both PLA and ABS are capable of building dimensionally accurate parts. However, there are characteristics that we need to memorized.&#xA;ABS: will be curling upwards of the surface in direct contact with the 3D printer’s print bed.  for fine and delicate features on parts involving sharp corners, such as gears, there will often be a slight rounding of the corner. &#xA;PLA: much less part warping. but it undergoes more of a phase-change when heated and becomes much more liquid. The increased flow can also lead to stronger binding between layer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Recycling:&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;ABS: Recycling number 7, most local recycling programs do not accept ABS. It generally being recycled into plastic lumber. &#xA;PLA: it biodegrades, however the process takes a long time when outside of an industrial composting facility&#xA;Why we provide a vacuum sealed package for ABS and PLA products? &#xA;long term exposure to a humid environment without sealed package may result in detrimental effects, both to the printing process and to the quality of finished parts. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;ABS: will tend to bubble and spurt from the tip of the nozzle when printing, part accuracy, strength are reduced. Raises the risk of clogging the nozzle. ABS can be easily dried by using dry or hot air.&#xA;PLA: bubbles or sporting at the nozzle, also discoloration and a reduction in 3D printed part are found when in long term moisture environment. &#xA;Improving the printing outcomes （Blue tape and Kapton tape pictures)&#xA;PLA: printing temperature approximately: 190°C - 240°C&#xA;ABS: printing temperature approximately: 225°C - 250°C (recommend to use a heated print bed)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A good first layer adhesion is of the utmost importance in obtaining the best results for the prints. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using Blue Tape or Kapton Tape.&#xA;Hairspray the print bed.&#xA;To attain optimal result for the prints, you need to consider variables such as nozzel diameter, printing speed, and layer height.&#xA;Summary: &#xA;ABS: &#xA;A preferred filament for the prints with engineering and professional purposes with its strength, machinability, flexibility, and higher temperature resistance. &#xA;The bad plastic smell is due to the petroleum based origin. &#xA;Required a heated print bed to attain ABS printing reliability. &#xA;PLA:&#xA;Wide range of available colors, provide translucencies and glossy feel of the prints. &#xA;Plant based and semi-sweet corn like smelling are appreciated over ABS.&#xA;When properly cooled, PLA seems to perform higher maximum printing speeds, and sharper printed corners. Combining this with low warping on parts make it a popular plastic for household uses, toys, hobbyists, and educational purposes. &#xA;to know more please visit  &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.3dsolutech.com/abs-vs-pla&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;abs vs pla&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7847" LastEditorUserId="26" LastEditDate="2017-07-21T03:30:59.890" LastActivityDate="2017-07-21T03:30:59.890" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4409" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4368" CreationDate="2017-07-21T01:57:26.947" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Thank you all for your suggestions and help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It appears that I was just running the printer too fast and slowing it down to about 10% of my original speed &quot;fixed&quot; my problem.&#xA;I don't know where i got the rediculous speed from, but 1200 mm/min is WAY too fast.&#xA;More like 150 to maybe 200 mm/min is what it should have been.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Oh well.. comes under the heading &quot;pay attention&quot; I guess!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7752" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2018-08-16T09:28:43.297" LastActivityDate="2018-08-16T09:28:43.297" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4411" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4413" CreationDate="2017-07-22T18:26:18.357" Score="8" ViewCount="27525" Body="&lt;p&gt;How do I speed up prints for the Monoprice Select IIIP Plus printer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The manual shows [Cura] examples of:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Print speed: 50mm/s&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Travel Speed: 80mm/s&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bottom Layer Speed: 20mm/s&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Infill Speed: 50mm/s&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Outer shell speed: 15mm/s&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Inner shell speed: 30mm/s&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, this doesn’t line up with their advertisements online of a 150mm/s printing speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there better settings to use, especially ones which can speed up printing time? Or are there any other measures which I can take in order to reduce printing time in general? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7862" LastEditorUserId="115" LastEditDate="2017-07-24T08:33:43.803" LastActivityDate="2017-08-09T21:28:12.753" Title="Monoprice Select IIIP Plus - Best speed settings and speeding up prints" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|speed|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4412" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-07-23T13:06:53.673" Score="2" ViewCount="605" Body="&lt;p&gt;So, I made a 3D picture of a cute mouse using &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.microsoft.com/en-us/store/p/paint-3d/9nblggh5fv99&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Microsoft Paint 3D&lt;/a&gt; and exported it as a .3mf.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why didn't the colors match when I opened the file in &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.microsoft.com/en-us/store/p/3d-builder/9wzdncrfj3t6&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Microsoft 3D Builder&lt;/a&gt;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7870" LastEditorUserId="6417" LastEditDate="2017-08-03T07:17:53.243" LastActivityDate="2017-08-03T07:17:53.243" Title="Why isn't any color showing up in my .3mf file in Windows 10 3D Builder" Tags="|color|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4413" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4411" CreationDate="2017-07-23T19:11:29.387" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my experience a print speed of 50-70mm/s is ideal. Even if you set the speed to 150mm/s the print head still changes directions often and rarely will have enough time to accelerate from 0-&gt;150 before changing direction again. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some more effective ways of speeding up prints is to adjust&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Layer height&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Infill percentage (15-25% for regular prints, more if they need to be more sound)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Supports&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Number of shells, etc&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7873" LastActivityDate="2017-07-23T19:11:29.387" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4414" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4415" CreationDate="2017-07-24T00:42:20.090" Score="1" ViewCount="3113" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have some older resin that got a bit thick. I was thinking I could use some paint thinner to thin it a bit and restore it. My thoughts are the paint thinner is made of terpene oils so should be compatible with the resin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To test, I went ahead and mixed a half capful of paint thinner with about a cup of resin. I mixed it thoroughly and it seemed to mix well and restored proper viscosity. I then filtered it through a paper coffee filter twice. The results were very nice and smooth resin. I did a UV hardening test with a few drops on a strip and into the UV lamp. It still hardens. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any thoughts, suggestions or OMGs! before I try this in my printer? It's a Pegasus Touch SLA.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7762" LastActivityDate="2017-07-24T00:54:36.320" Title="How to thin UV sensitive resin" Tags="|sla|uv-printer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4415" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4414" CreationDate="2017-07-24T00:54:36.320" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You've covered a couple of concerns &quot;outside the box,&quot; but the real tests will come when you pour some of the resin into the vat. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't get a reaction with the release layer, score one for your side. The release layer is a silicone kind of compound, which typically is un-reactive to most substances, but that's not to say the thinner qualifies in that respect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To be cautious, you could dab a bit on the corner of the vat, especially out of the usual scan area or off the build plate contact surface. If it sits without clouding the release layer, the next test would be a layer test.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could even remove the build plate, pour the modified resin in the vat and run a model comprised of only one layer, perhaps two. You'd be able to carefully pull the cured resin off the release layer and make a preliminary determination.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If all is well by this point, it's time to create a model, yes?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope you'll report back on your results. My Pegasus is still in the box from Kickstarter days. I'm sure my resin is well beyond the &quot;sell-by&quot; date!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastActivityDate="2017-07-24T00:54:36.320" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4416" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4417" CreationDate="2017-07-25T02:53:01.673" Score="5" ViewCount="394" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cura is generating temperature commands in the wrong order.  I need to swap lines 6 and 7 below so that both the printhead and bed can begin to heat at the same time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this code generation configurable in Cura?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;5 ;Generated with Cura_SteamEngine 2.5.0&#xA;6 M190 S60    ; set bed and block&#xA;7 M104 S215   ; set printhead, don't block&#xA;8 M109 S215   ; set printhead, block&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6851" LastActivityDate="2017-07-25T03:46:37.663" Title="How do I modify Cura's code generation?" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|g-code|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4417" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4416" CreationDate="2017-07-25T03:46:37.663" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can do so by placing this at the top of the start code under machine settings (tested on 2.6.1).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;M104 S{material_print_temperature}&#xA;M190 S{material_bed_temperature}&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7873" LastActivityDate="2017-07-25T03:46:37.663" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4418" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-07-25T15:16:47.537" Score="1" ViewCount="248" Body="&lt;p&gt;I cannot generate the upper part of the solid properly which contain a hole (as in the picture).  The solid part (bottom section) printed well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QpBfR.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QpBfRm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What should I change to print the part with hole properly?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Is it a problem with machine or the design?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I am using Hydra 3D printer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7900" LastEditorUserId="6417" LastEditDate="2017-07-27T11:03:31.827" LastActivityDate="2017-07-27T11:03:31.827" Title="Printed part problem, distortion on upper section containing hole" Tags="|filament|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4419" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4418" CreationDate="2017-07-25T16:10:30.837" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It appears that the upper part of your print contains less plastic than the lower. This would mean that as the printer begins to operate in that area, the previously deposited plastic has less time to cool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The distortions are difficult to see from the distortions of the photograph, but I've experienced similar upper, smaller section failures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could consider to print more than one copy of the item on the bed, which will require the nozzle to move away from each layer, allowing more cooling time, or add a throw-away model. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've also added an ooze shield using Simplify3D to create a single wall around the part, providing the same cooling time concept.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you try these options and still experience a problem, please consider editing your post with material used (PLA, ABS, PETG, etc) as well as temperatures and speeds used for this print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your slicer is not likely the problem, but is often useful information. Printer name is sometimes helpful, but I think it's not critical in this circumstance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's also useful to orient the part in the photograph to match that of the print. It's apparent in this case that the top of the print is to the right and bottom is to the left. If that is not correct, please advise in edit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastActivityDate="2017-07-25T16:10:30.837" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4420" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4418" CreationDate="2017-07-25T17:08:45.147" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;This can be a product of poor overhang profiles and bridging. Issues with overhanging features can most easily be fixed by:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;applying active cooling (for PLA)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;slowing down your feedrate on outer shells&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;or adjusting some of the more advanced slicing settings related to bridging/overhanging such as:&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;anchors&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;widths&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;feedrates&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;active cooling speeds&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;etc.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="98" LastActivityDate="2017-07-25T17:08:45.147" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4421" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-07-25T19:00:08.187" Score="4" ViewCount="3790" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have Ramps 1.4 and would like to get answer on extrusion in Marlin firmware. I have NEMA 17 stepper motor 1.8 deg, set to 1/16 step. Mk7 direct drive.&#xA;38 teeth in extruder drive gear. I bought it from &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.robotics.org.za/RDKIT-00?search=extru&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this website&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are my current settings:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT   { 80,80, 4000, 180 }&#xA;#define DEFAULT_MAX_FEEDRATE          { 500, 500, 3, 45 } &#xA;#define DEFAULT_MAX_ACCELERATION      { 9000, 9000, 100, 300 }&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am using ABS 1.75 filament and a 0.4 nozzle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7901" LastEditorUserId="6417" LastEditDate="2017-07-26T23:02:53.223" LastActivityDate="2017-07-28T20:47:01.277" Title="Ramps 1.4 1.8 stepper motor extrusion calculation" Tags="|filament|extruder|motor|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4422" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4421" CreationDate="2017-07-26T00:33:33.157" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to the description, the drive gear you have has a &lt;code&gt;10.8mm&lt;/code&gt; diameter. This means that (in the ideal case) one full rotation of the drive gear will advance a length of filament equal to its circumference, which is &lt;code&gt;pi x 10.8mm&lt;/code&gt; or approximately &lt;code&gt;33.93mm&lt;/code&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your motor rotates &lt;code&gt;1.8&lt;/code&gt; degrees per step, so it takes &lt;code&gt;360 / 1.8 = 200 steps&lt;/code&gt; for a full rotation. Since you are using 16x microstepping, this is multiplied to &lt;code&gt;200 x 16 = 3200 steps&lt;/code&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You thus end up with a steps per mm value of &lt;code&gt;3200 / 33.93 = 94.31 steps/mm&lt;/code&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might need to calibrate this further, for instance by extruding a set length of filament (e.g. 100mm) and measuring how much is actually extruded, and then compensating the steps/mm value to get you closer to the desired 100mm. A simple way to measure this is to put a mark on your filament at 150mm from the extruder, and then (after extruding 100mm) measure how close the mark is to the extruder (which should be 50mm) However, this theoretically computed value should be a good starting point. Note that the speed you do this test at should be close to your normal printing speed, since extruding at a much higher (resp. lower) speed will falsely lead you to believe you are underextruding (resp. overextruding).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastActivityDate="2017-07-26T00:33:33.157" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4424" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-07-26T13:35:54.627" Score="3" ViewCount="208" Body="&lt;p&gt;I need to send a complex password to my machine. The machine needs to decrypt it and run it. I have not found enough resources for such an operation. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More detailed description:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am developing a new feature for my 3D printer which runs on Repetier. (It may be on a different firmware that I can do this job).&#xA;I want to change my 3D printer so it can understand special encrypted G-codes alongside normal g-codes. Lets describe it with an example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Normally, 3D printers can read and apply standard g-code files like:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;G28&#xA;G0 X10 Y20 E30&#xA;.&#xA;.&#xA;.&#xA;etc.&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I am developing a g-code encryption method which encrypts any g-code and turns it into a text like:&#xA; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;M999 !4#^&#xA;M999 ^s+.&amp;amp;&amp;amp;/..* ….&#xA;.&#xA;.&#xA;etc.&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to change the firmware for my printer so it understands if the related g-code is encrypted by checking every line if it stars with M999 (or starts with some other pattern character which I will decide later).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To do is, I need to understand how Repetier works, especially how command debug  works and how I can parse my encrypted code from my encrypted g-code file.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I could not understand how repetier.h / command.cpp works and how it parses the line and redirects to functional cases.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7911" LastEditorUserId="6417" LastEditDate="2017-07-26T21:00:48.077" LastActivityDate="2017-09-24T22:01:11.153" Title="How do I decrypt messages on my Repetier firmware?" Tags="|software|firmware|repetier|repetier-host|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4425" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4424" CreationDate="2017-07-26T14:43:19.100" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Looking through &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/repetier/Repetier-Firmware&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;the source&lt;/a&gt; I found &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/repetier/Repetier-Firmware/blob/master/src/ArduinoAVR/Repetier/Commands.cpp#L50&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Commands.cpp&lt;/a&gt; that has a loop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;void Commands::commandLoop() {&#xA;    while(true) {&#xA;        ...&#xA;        Commands::executeGCode(code);&#xA;    }&#xA;}&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If we find the &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/repetier/Repetier-Firmware/blob/master/src/ArduinoAVR/Repetier/Commands.cpp#L2395&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;executeGCode&lt;/a&gt; method, we see that it calls:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;processMCode(com);&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And finding the &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/repetier/Repetier-Firmware/blob/master/src/ArduinoAVR/Repetier/Commands.cpp#L860&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;processMCode&lt;/a&gt; method, we have the switch case you can add your own logic to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;void Commands::processMCode(GCode *com) {&#xA;    switch( com-&amp;gt;M ) {&#xA;        case 3: // Spindle/laser on&#xA;            ...&#xA;&#xA;        case 999: // Your custom logic&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After decoding your encrypted string, I think it would be best to call back into the first method mentioned, and let the process start from the top with the unencrypted command.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;case 999:&#xA;&#xA;    // Custom logic&#xA;    executeGCode(unencrypted);&#xA;    break;&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="47" LastEditorUserId="47" LastEditDate="2017-07-26T14:48:38.437" LastActivityDate="2017-07-26T14:48:38.437" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4426" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4412" CreationDate="2017-07-26T19:50:25.597" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Per the &lt;a href=&quot;http://3mf.io/wp-content/uploads/2016/03/3MFcoreSpec_1.1.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;3MF Specification&lt;/a&gt;, colors in the .3mf files are &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.w3.org/Graphics/Color/sRGB&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;sRGB&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are looking at gross color defects, I would look a the raw codes generated in the 3mf to make sure they make sense.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are talking about subtle color differences, that is much more complicated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Color have always been a tough thing to define as it is affected by whether the it is emissive (like displayed on a screen) or reflective (like a physical object).  The way it is perceived is affected by ambient light, surface texture and more.  I worked on a project once where Marketing wanted all the colors to match (on the screen, on paper, on plastic, on on fabric) and it was a mess.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6417" LastActivityDate="2017-07-26T19:50:25.597" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4427" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4428" CreationDate="2017-07-26T21:56:24.457" Score="8" ViewCount="2602" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm planning my first project. I want to print an iPhone case with a flush letter on the back, but I want the letter in a different color (single extruder printer). The thing is the two colors will be on the same level. Do I create two separate models, import them to a single model, mesh the parts and somehow specify which one to start on, then just change the filament when it's done with the first section? Will the letter be loose fitting in the cut out? Or will I need to print them separately and glue them together?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is a good slicing software to accomplish this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7918" LastEditorUserId="4927" LastEditDate="2018-09-04T08:15:49.473" LastActivityDate="2018-09-04T08:15:49.473" Title="How to print a two color part with only one extruder" Tags="|3d-models|filament|software|slicing|multi-material|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4428" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4427" CreationDate="2017-07-26T23:19:44.857" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;What you ask may be easier than you think. The slicing software is unimportant, generally speaking. Consider especially that your requirements fit the solution spot on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Take a look at this &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1973570&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;thingiverse snowman.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sGo1d.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sGo1d.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;colorful Snowman&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Each of the colors is a separate model. Each of the colors is only one layer thick (0.200 mm). Each of the colors is placed with zero overlap to the adjacent colors, as the extrusion multiplier will allow enough &quot;squish&quot; to cause a bond to its neighbor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You would create a model with the necessary shape for your lettering and insert the appropriate color for them. Print that model but leave it on the bed. If the bed is heated, all the better, but don't let it cool to the point of release. If it's not heated, the adhesive should hold it until project completion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the main background color, your model would be normal but with a single layer subtracted at the base. The subtraction would have to be the shape of the lettering. Consider that you're creating indented or recessed lettering. Use appropriate modeling techniques to perform this action.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keep in mind that you'll want the lettering to be mirrored, as you're printing it &quot;upside down&quot; on the build plate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Swap out the filament to the main color and print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You are color limited only by your determination and patience, as you have to swap out filament and also have to create appropriate models with recesses to take the first layer, of which you'll also have to create models.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've created at least one of the snowman pictured and it came out quite good. The layman will not be as astonished as someone familiar with 3D modeling and printing, however. You get a better appreciation when you know what goes into the project to get this result.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT to add more info, rather than fill the comments:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The above method works only because the inlay is a single layer deep. If your slicer supports changing layer thickness during a print, you could print the first layer at the max for your nozzle, say 0.3 mm then set layer 2 and upwards to the resolution you desire for the majority of your print. I use Simplify3D which supports such actions. I'm not sure of the others.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Relevant to the questions posed in the comments, your modeling software may be a factor in this process. The modeling software will create/assign a pivot point or some other name to a location of reference in the model. The slicer will use that to position the model on the bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a concept I would use to perform this task. Start with your single layer lettering, ensuring that the thickness of the letters will match your first layer height. Save the model as an STL file. Leave the lettering on the screen in your modeling software.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Create or import the case file. Position it as you wish relative to the letters. Of course, both models will be flat on the build plane or all bets are off. Use the lettering in a boolean subtraction to remove the shapes from the phone case model.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the above does not remove the lettering model, delete that and you have the recess. Save this model in STL.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you load the models in the slicer, they should drop into the same location relative to each other.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you print the letters, they will be on layer one. When you print the remaining model, the cut-out portion will be on layer one, while the rest is placed atop the two color portion. The print head will move up one layer to adjust for the extra depth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you require the letters to be thicker than a single layer, one of the options you have is also in your question. Create the letters in the thickness you wish, use them to create the recess in the case and print separately. In so doing, you will be counting on the printer's ability to make clean bridges. The letters may fit cleanly, may have some play or slop, or be too large to fit easily. It would behoove you to make a test piece or two, perhaps a simple slab with one or two letters to see how that concept works in the real world. I was pleasantly surprised to see how well the public library's genuine Prusa i3 MK2S performed a challenging bridging operation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I apologize for overlooking the reference to first project. With that in mind, I would consider that this is a slightly advanced project. Your modeling software and modeling software skills will obviously come into play here and is a separate subject/question/topic for discussion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastEditorUserId="854" LastEditDate="2017-07-27T10:01:30.040" LastActivityDate="2017-07-27T10:01:30.040" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4429" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4833" CreationDate="2017-07-27T18:52:11.410" Score="2" ViewCount="2292" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is my first time building a 3D printer (a &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.3dprintersonlinestore.com/creality-ender4-3d-printer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Creality Ender-4&lt;/a&gt;&quot;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Everything is going fine except the &quot;extruder kit&quot; part that does not have enough space to attach on the frame.  Should I drill it to have a longer hole so it can be attached to the frame? I just want another set of eyes to look at it to make sure I'm not crazy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kw3kh.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kw3khm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Extruder - image#1&quot; title=&quot;Extruder - image#1&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VCDP6.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VCDP6m.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Extruder - image#2&quot; title=&quot;Extruder - image#2&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1Z8C2.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1Z8C2m.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Extruder - image#3&quot; title=&quot;Extruder - image#3&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7933" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-07-08T11:45:13.843" LastActivityDate="2018-07-08T11:45:13.843" Title="Creality 3D Ender-4, a &quot;extruder kit&quot; does not fit the frame" Tags="|diy-3d-printer|printer-building|creality-ender-4|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4430" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4429" CreationDate="2017-07-27T20:33:27.740" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;From the photo on their website, it looks like you are orienting it correctly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a photo to confirm the orientation.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7zwaS.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7zwaS.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: I added this as an answer so I could share the photo&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6417" LastActivityDate="2017-07-27T20:33:27.740" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4431" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4429" CreationDate="2017-07-27T22:15:53.950" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your request appears to be &quot;another set of eyes&quot; and I'll add to that by adding another photo:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xGSZ4.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xGSZ4.png&quot; alt=&quot;extruder mount&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you compare the photo from the official store you can see the gap between the mounting screw and the body of the extruder assembly is obviously wider in the official photo. On the plus side, the extruder mount is not something that would be considered system critical, because you're using a Bowden tube design. Even a bit of misalignment would mean zero impact on the printed model quality.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Consider to contact the seller, including the photo from the store and your photo and ask for a correct mounting plate. You would likely be able to use the oversize hole mount until a replacement arrives. For such a small part, they should not charge you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastEditorUserId="854" LastEditDate="2017-07-28T09:53:34.323" LastActivityDate="2017-07-28T09:53:34.323" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4432" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4434" CreationDate="2017-07-28T09:23:58.777" Score="4" ViewCount="1946" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm planning to make an LCD Resin printer. I'm still learning and I found out that I need daylight resin (which hardens when white light comes from the LCD).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I search for &quot;Daylight resin&quot; on Google, the only &quot;useful&quot; result I find is for &lt;a href=&quot;https://photocentric3d.com/daylightresins/?v=9b6a28c805e0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Photocentric&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WWTR9m.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WWTR9m.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Photocentric Resin&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Photocentric sells Daylight resins and the prices seem to be good too; however, I'm trying to search for alternatives. I'm not interested in something cheaper, I'd like to choose a resin which has more colors. Photocentric's hard resin only comes in cream/green/gray colors. I would need at least white/black/transparent resin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it the only option we have?  Are there any other manufacturer out there which produces Daylight resin/LCD-hardening resin with a variety of colors?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5317" LastEditorUserId="6417" LastEditDate="2017-07-29T04:15:29.790" LastActivityDate="2017-09-04T06:14:00.573" Title="Which choices do we have on Daylight Resins?" Tags="|diy-3d-printer|sla|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4433" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4421" CreationDate="2017-07-28T20:47:01.277" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Simplest way to calculate your extrusion is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Set your number of perimeters walls 1&#xA;top and bottom layer 0&#xA;infill 0%&#xA;and print simple 20x20x20 cube &#xA;look at the wall thickness with caliper and compare your extrusion width value on your slicer software&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7948" LastActivityDate="2017-07-28T20:47:01.277" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4434" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4432" CreationDate="2017-07-29T04:24:41.710" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It looks like &lt;a href=&quot;https://store.ono3d.net/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Ono&lt;/a&gt; may fit what you are looking for.&#xA;They have several colors listed on their site.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Red   &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Em8Uu.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Em8Uu.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;  Blue&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/encJ8.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/encJ8.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yellow&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jJS6t.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jJS6t.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;   Black&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lhsdQ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lhsdQ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Clear&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fwl5J.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fwl5J.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;  Creamy White &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XGmSp.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XGmSp.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They also have a flexible resin and a low temperature &quot;casting&quot; resin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is unclear if the resin is available now or if it is preorder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6417" LastEditorUserId="6417" LastEditDate="2017-07-29T04:43:38.400" LastActivityDate="2017-07-29T04:43:38.400" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4435" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4432" CreationDate="2017-07-29T21:37:39.367" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;ONO, as mentioned previously. But I do believe that resin will be rather expensive. Along the lines of $15 per 100ml. Since their resin sales are geared towards their printer (small, resin based printer that uses your smart phone as the light source) they sell smaller portions, as their printer can't hold all that much. Not quite sure if you can order larger quantities at a discount directly from them. But at this stage, they are rather difficult to get ahold of via internet communication. That may change if and when they fulfill their KS commitments.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3785" LastActivityDate="2017-07-29T21:37:39.367" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4436" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4329" CreationDate="2017-07-29T22:06:36.540" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is possible that your selected layer height isn't compatible with the pitch of your leadscrew. I believe the reprap website has a layer height calculator based on the pitch of your lead screw. Just another option.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3785" LastActivityDate="2017-07-29T22:06:36.540" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4437" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="655" CreationDate="2017-07-30T09:21:40.543" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cura generates support based on the outlines of the layers which will be printed, rather based on the triangles of the 3D model.&#xA;It is therefore not possible to show the generated support in the solid view.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can view the support in the layer view however.&#xA;In Cura 2 that's on the left bottom of the screen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iVQ5s.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iVQ5s.png&quot; alt=&quot;Cura&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Support is classified as a helper part in the legend of the layer view.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7956" LastActivityDate="2017-07-30T09:21:40.543" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4438" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4395" CreationDate="2017-07-30T09:42:25.827" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;GCode flavor&lt;/strong&gt;: the firmware your machine uses. Google tells me CR-10 uses Marlin, so you should select that. Volumetric Marlin is not very common.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Print Head Settings&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;X/Y min/max&lt;/strong&gt; define the bounding box of the area your print head takes up. Measure the distance from the centre of the nozzle to the left-most point of the print head and do the same for the right-most, front-most and back-most.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Gantry Height&lt;/strong&gt; is the distance from the tip of the nozzle to the lowest point of the gantry, which is the axle on which the print head is mounted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These print head settings are only used for one-at-a-time printing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7956" LastEditorUserId="9134" LastEditDate="2017-12-10T10:11:51.663" LastActivityDate="2017-12-10T10:11:51.663" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4439" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4304" CreationDate="2017-07-30T09:49:10.550" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;This problem is most commonly caused by infill speeds which are too high.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Instead of printing lines, the filament is caught on one of the lines of the previous layer, leaves a blob there and only restarts extrusion when it hits the next line. Instead of extruding continuously the filament comes out in blobs at the locations where there's filament on the previous layer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can have good infill up to some layer and suddenly start getting this problem as of some layer. When the problem occurs the next layer is more likely to show the problem. It's snowballing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7956" LastActivityDate="2017-07-30T09:49:10.550" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4440" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4066" CreationDate="2017-07-30T09:59:02.967" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you properly define your own machine with a &lt;code&gt;delta_wasp.def.json&lt;/code&gt; file you can fill in the acceleration and jerk settings of your printer, so that Cura will use the correct values for print time estimation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, take a look at &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/Ultimaker/Cura/blob/master/resources/definitions/ultimaker2.def.json&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;how the Ultimaker 2 is defined.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Exposing these settings to the Custom FDM Printer wizard hasn't been implemented (yet).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7956" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-08-15T09:39:09.473" LastActivityDate="2018-08-15T09:39:09.473" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4441" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1497" CreationDate="2017-07-30T10:06:57.337" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Cura 2 you can do several things:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Design internal support pillars, and make them an Infill Mesh via the Per-object settings. I suggest you also reduce the top/bottom thickness and Wall thickness of the infill mesh.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Enable Hollow Out Objects and enable support.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Enable gradual infill: increase the Gradual Infill Steps. Although this will still make infill everywhere it will drastically reduce the infill where it's less needed.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7956" LastActivityDate="2017-07-30T10:06:57.337" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4442" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3824" CreationDate="2017-07-30T10:11:04.343" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;For the Ultimaker 2 flow is typically handled on the printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could make a feature request at &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/Ultimaker/Cura/issues&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;github&lt;/a&gt; to let Flow be enabled for Ultimaker 2 printers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for your problem: that sounds more like a dimensional accuracy problem to me. I suggest setting Horizontal Expansion to -0.15mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7956" LastActivityDate="2017-07-30T10:11:04.343" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4443" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="711" CreationDate="2017-07-30T10:20:14.037" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;First, try &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;CuraEngine.exe --help&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The proper way is to first load in settings from the &lt;code&gt;.def.json&lt;/code&gt; file of your printer. However, the formulae in the machine definition file are not being processed. CuraEngine only uses the &lt;code&gt;default_value&lt;/code&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then you specify setting overrides to set specific settings to a specific value. The specified settings are applied to the last provided object/extruder and otherwise globally.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;CuraEngine.exe -v -j machine.def.json -s global_setting=global_value &#xA;    -e1 -s setting=extruder_value&#xA;    -l object_to_be_printed_with_second_extruder.stl -s setting=object_value &#xA;    -o output.gcode&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One-at-a-time mode is done by adding &lt;code&gt;--next&lt;/code&gt; commands between each group:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;CuraEngine [general settings] -g [settings for the first model] --next [settings for the next model]&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7956" LastEditorUserId="7956" LastEditDate="2018-08-15T12:26:16.073" LastActivityDate="2018-08-15T12:26:16.073" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4444" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3543" CreationDate="2017-07-30T10:23:45.677" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;First: Update Ultimaker Cura. The latest is currently 3.5.1.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can specify the angles and widths with the settings Infill Line Directions and Infill Line Width.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want them differently for different objects on the build plate you can specify those settings in the per-object settings menu on the left.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7956" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-11-06T12:34:35.677" LastActivityDate="2018-11-06T12:34:35.677" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4445" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3265" CreationDate="2017-07-30T10:26:51.710" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There &lt;em&gt;is&lt;/em&gt; a way to do this in Cura 2:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Load in a cube.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Place it over the location where you need 100% infill.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;In the per-object settings (tool on the left of the screen): &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;enable &lt;strong&gt;Infill Mesh&lt;/strong&gt;, and;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;set &lt;strong&gt;Infill density&lt;/strong&gt; to 100&amp;nbsp;%, and;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Wall Thickness&lt;/strong&gt; to 0&amp;nbsp;mm.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7956" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-08-15T09:57:40.013" LastActivityDate="2018-08-15T09:57:40.013" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4446" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4380" CreationDate="2017-07-30T17:33:00.810" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;After Fred's answer, I realized there was a way to test out how much the temperature would drop by offsetting my current glass base to extend past the exge then using a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.flir.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;FLIR&lt;/a&gt; IR Camera to see what the effect would be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are the results:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The the glass plate does seem act a bit as an insulator causing the print surface to be about 1°C cooler.  Here are two photos showing that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KCCQZ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KCCQZ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pINUZ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pINUZ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As Fred proposed, where the glass extends past the base, the temperature drops pretty quickly.  It is still warmer than ambient; but is definitely not &quot;Hot&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4j7Cs.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4j7Cs.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6417" LastActivityDate="2017-07-30T17:33:00.810" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4447" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3173" CreationDate="2017-07-31T08:32:10.317" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Update: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Cura 2.5, and higher, &lt;em&gt;does&lt;/em&gt; load and print G-code&lt;/strong&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(The support was added April 19, 2017.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3796" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2019-07-06T05:13:18.233" LastActivityDate="2019-07-06T05:13:18.233" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4448" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-08-01T12:47:05.387" Score="3" ViewCount="98" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cura v2.5.0&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I've been working in Blender for some time, so I have experience with exporting stl from it with exact size and I had no scale issues with slicing.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;But today cura showed a strange thing.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;These are 3dBenchy and a stretched cube which are supposed to have 45mm height, also &quot;boundary boxes&quot; are turned on to show that there is no flying geometry.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JVT4h.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JVT4h.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you can see below cura shows same size visually but different in numbers.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fYchp.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fYchp.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And if I scale the ship inside the cura it will look like this&lt;br&gt;&#xA;(low reputation) &lt;code&gt;http://dl3.joxi.net/drive/2017/08/01/0001/2747/88763/63/969fe8bc67.jpg&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know if I screwed up the model somehow or can it be considered as a bug?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7978" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2020-07-13T11:38:05.743" LastActivityDate="2020-07-13T11:38:05.743" Title="cura shows different Z heights" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|blender|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4449" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4450" CreationDate="2017-08-02T00:26:23.020" Score="4" ViewCount="944" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have almost 0 experience in 3d modeling and I'm looking for a simple way to color a model. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/u0WLkJsGPw8?t=139&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;I want to replicate this paint job of a model.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've tried Blender, tried Mudbox and I don't have the money for Mari which is the software being used in the video.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The issue with both is that it seems to take forever to try and paint them. It's a high-poly model with a bunch of vertices. Both programs seize up and hang and I'm forced to quit them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I simply and efficiently color the model to get it ready for sandstone color printing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7983" LastEditorUserId="7983" LastEditDate="2017-08-02T01:29:08.670" LastActivityDate="2017-08-02T01:29:08.670" Title="How to &quot;paint&quot; a mesh on a stl/obj" Tags="|3d-design|software|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4450" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4449" CreationDate="2017-08-02T00:56:12.290" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you've looked into using Blender, you would have discovered that that program is free. It is also one of the better suited programs available for the task you've selected. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's possible that your search terms may not have provided the best results for your objective. The task you describe is known as UV mapping, also known as adding texture to mesh, adding texture to a model. The generic term &quot;texture&quot; can be confused, as many people would consider texture to be the feel of a surface. Rough, smooth, slippery, etc., do not apply here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Texture in the 3D modeling world applies to a surface description specific to visibility. In your task, texture refers directly to color.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Consider to search using the above terms or follow this lead:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/search?site=&amp;amp;source=hp&amp;amp;q=add%20texture%20to%20model%20blender&amp;amp;oq=add%20texture%20to%20model%20blender&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Add texture to model Blender&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Doing so provided a few quite well written links. One of the first to appear is an &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-add-a-texture-in-Blender/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Instructable&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The above Instructable also links to a video, which is also a good location for learning basics for Blender and texturing models.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The above search also results in finding an SE entry directly related to Blender:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://blender.stackexchange.com/questions/23437/add-an-image-to-an-object&quot;&gt;StackExchange Blender texture Q/A&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Consider that you can create a flat image using your preferred graphics editor, placing shapes and colors as needed and then &quot;project&quot; or paste or plaster or project that image on the surface of the model in a controlled manner. This would be easier and faster than attempting to color manually individual triangles of the model's mesh. The SE link summarizes this process, although additional research is indicated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Practice with Blender on simplified models and you should be able to grasp the necessary skills in short order.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastActivityDate="2017-08-02T00:56:12.290" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4451" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="215" CreationDate="2017-08-02T12:57:06.530" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a glass bed and I use plastic razor blades from Scraperite specifically black blade to clean it up. Looks like it's the best alternative to metal blade so far.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7987" LastActivityDate="2017-08-02T12:57:06.530" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4452" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-08-02T13:23:10.820" Score="4" ViewCount="4238" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been playing with my CR-10 for about a month now and I was wondering if there is a low filament sensor available for the CR10. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found this listing on Amazon, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.amazon.co.uk/Creality-Printer-CR-10-Filament-400x400x400mm/dp/B0746L9DT3&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Creality 3D Printer CR-10 S4 with Filament Monitor Dual Z Rod Screws 400x400x400mm&lt;/a&gt;, which is for the larger model which has a built in &lt;em&gt;low filament sensor&lt;/em&gt;, and I was wondering if the sensor could be bought separately and installed on my CR-10. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively, I have had a look around and only found this, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.amazon.co.uk/XCSOURCE-Printer-Filament-Detection-TE720/dp/B06ZZ5YXM6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1501679926&amp;amp;sr=8-1&amp;amp;keywords=low%20filament%20sensor&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;XCSOURCE 1.75mm 3D Printer Filament Detection Sensor Module Filament Run Out Pause Monitor for 3D Printer DIY Kit TE720&lt;/a&gt;. By looks of it, it needs to be attached to the main board in the control box. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can anyone tell me if this would be compatible?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7989" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-09-30T08:05:57.413" LastActivityDate="2018-09-30T08:17:02.837" Title="Low Filament Sensor for Creality CR-10?" Tags="|desktop-printer|creality-cr-10|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2018-10-01T15:35:34.817" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4455" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-08-03T05:41:39.517" Score="0" ViewCount="724" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have had my Monoprice Select Mini v2 for about two weeks now and I get a clicking noise on my filament insert on some prints and when I check a few minutes later, I can see that it's not extruding and that there is a clog of some sort. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I checked to see whethere there was possibly a clog in my hot end or nozzle, but there was nothing there. So I checked my Boden tube to see if the filament was brittle and had broken, but I found that there was plastic with a slight twist clogged in the Boden tube connector. When it first happened I had used an Allen wrench to push the plastic out. The second time it was harder and took heating the connector piece up to melt the plastic and pull it out. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now I know (from the ticking) that my gear feeder is making a clicking noise - as it did when it was clogged. So when I hear that, I just push the lever to loosen it and it sounds like it releases tension. So is there a way to stop this or prevent it? I tried upping the temperature on the nozzle but it didn't help much. I'm printing from an average of 60°C and a high of 80°C with PLA.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8000" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-12-10T06:26:40.007" LastActivityDate="2019-12-10T06:26:40.007" Title="Monoprice Select Mini v2 clogged Boden tube connection" Tags="|monoprice-select-mini|ptfe-tube|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4456" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4381" CreationDate="2017-08-03T07:36:51.330" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;For the X/Y/Z axes, you can use &lt;code&gt;M92&lt;/code&gt; to change the axis steps per unit to a negative value, which causes it to move in the opposite direction. I.e. if normally your X axis has 160 steps per mm, using &lt;code&gt;M92 X-160&lt;/code&gt; will invert all of its movements.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, this is more of a hack than a real, intended solution. It would be better to (if you are concerned with the homing direction) change the configuration to have the printer home in the other direction. Unfortunately, this can only be done by changing the firmware and not through G-code.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the extruder, I'm not aware of any method to invert its direction with G-code.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastEditorUserId="26" LastEditDate="2021-12-31T09:08:04.010" LastActivityDate="2021-12-31T09:08:04.010" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4457" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4458" CreationDate="2017-08-04T06:41:29.940" Score="7" ViewCount="1073" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an ANET A2 Prusa - which I've setup and performed a few prints on and they have various problems with the quality.  I'm after some specific experience on what the flow of filament should look like or if my decription triggers someone  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've been adjusting settings - In particular the temperature - as the filament seemed too fluid as I could easily cause a large spurt of molten plastic by manually pushing the filament with very little effort.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I reduced the head temperature to 195 and all seemed better &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However after a time - I noticed on a longer print that the feeding was sometimes failing with the filament jerking back as the feeder slipped off it &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The stepper did not appear to slip back just the gear skipped on the filament&#xA;It appeared to cause a problem in the print with a few of the lines being missing before it started extruding normally again&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I increased the temperature back to 200 - however the issue continued intermittently however I left it and when I returned the head had become blocked with the final part of the succesful print consisting of very thin hair like extrusions and eventually stopping completely&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The head is flooded and I need to clean it out &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So my questions are - how runny should the filament look when the head is at the correct temperatures, is the extremely runny filament I saw at 200 obviously too hot - or is that normal or at least have people seen it looking like that when successfully printing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Initially , before I reduced the temperature,  I doubled the skirt and that seem to make a good enough print &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone have  experience of why it can seem to be printing but then slowly start failing until the head becomes blocked?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7595" LastActivityDate="2017-08-09T09:08:18.340" Title="Filament not feeding then eventually blocked" Tags="|filament|extruder|print-material|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4458" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4457" CreationDate="2017-08-04T08:52:35.813" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;From my experience with mk8 extruders lower than optimal nozzle temperature or clogged nozzle can lead to an extruder's stepper motor overheating and partial burning out of a stepper&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It looks like “Achilles' heel” of mk8 extruders. I had to change 4 stepper motors for 2 3d printers with mk8 due to that&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First symptoms – skipped steps. You could also check a temperature of your stepper – next symptom is a high temperature of stepper motor after several hours of printing&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My fix for this issue – adding cooling fans to stepper sides and top (3 fans). It significantly reduced overheating and hopefully a life of stepper&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another solution of this issue can be in using of a stepper motor with gearbox to increase torque on a filament gear, so no high torque needed from stepper itself&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;About printing temperature, it depends on plastic which you are using&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I’m using ABS plastic with an optimal printing temperature from 230-260 Celsius degree. For my current plastic supplier optimal temp is about 255 Celsius degree&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To check the optimal temperature for your plastic you can print one box in different temperatures depending on Z position and found the optimal temperature by the z position of surface with the best quality. You can find code samples how doing it &lt;a href=&quot;http://forums.designfutures.club/t/tutorial-calibrating-hot-end-temperature-abs-pla-hips-etc/84&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If a temperature is too high then this part of the box will be bloated, if it's too low - you can see the gaps. Here is the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FSOPsRiiOZk&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;video&lt;/a&gt;, which illustrating this for PLA&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;UPDATE:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The issue was in the low temperature of printing. After calibration and setting temperature by calibration outcomes to 200 Celsius degree printer started working well&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, please be aware of the fact that wrong printing temperature can not only decrease the quality of printed things, but also can lead to wear of your printer parts and even can break it&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8008" LastEditorUserId="8008" LastEditDate="2017-08-09T09:08:18.340" LastActivityDate="2017-08-09T09:08:18.340" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4459" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-08-04T11:58:07.950" Score="11" ViewCount="2232" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am looking for methods to reduce the amount of noise produced by my CR-10. I have the printer in my downstairs study and if I'm doing a long print job, you can hear it upstairs in my son's bedroom and I don't want it keep him awake.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've seen there are noise reduction feet available on Thingiverse but apparently these can result quite significant vibrations of the printer itself, which could mess up the print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've also seen one guy using a paving block but I'm not sure how effective that would be and also don't think my cheap Ikea desk would cope very well with having a concrete block put on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was wondering about trying an off-cut of carpet. Has anyone tried this or have any other suggestions?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7989" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-09-30T09:57:51.370" LastActivityDate="2020-10-20T09:42:57.053" Title="Noise Reduction" Tags="|desktop-printer|creality-cr-10|" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4460" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4468" CreationDate="2017-08-04T14:34:58.773" Score="13" ViewCount="831" Body="&lt;p&gt;I play a &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Berimbau&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;berimbau&lt;/a&gt; for Capoeira. One of the most fragile (and most expensive) bits is the &lt;em&gt;cabaça&lt;/em&gt;, a hollow gourd used as a resonator.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tRNcL.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;cabaças&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not very familiar with the qualities of the resin used for 3d printing. If I were to take this to our local Maker Lab and have them scan and print a copy, how likely is it that it would work? My fear is that the plastic would be too sound deadening.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want a less exotic parallel, imagine the body of a guitar. That's a resonating chamber.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8013" LastActivityDate="2018-09-14T11:18:39.093" Title="Is it possible to print a resonator for a musical instrument?" Tags="|print-material|quality|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4461" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4459" CreationDate="2017-08-04T22:37:49.387" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Personally for vibration reduction I use a large mouse pad I cut to size, but I'd imagine the carpet would perform just fine. I would also recommend enclosing your printer (this had the most profound effect for me) and upgrading your stepper drivers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7873" LastActivityDate="2017-08-04T22:37:49.387" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4462" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4457" CreationDate="2017-08-05T04:41:16.617" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;From my experience with few printer, Sometime it's happen because of the filament. &#xA;Solution-&#xA;If your printer have unload function or if you don't have  that funstion select a printerable file and change temperature to  205-210 C and try to use long and thin hex key like this to push the filament out.&#xA;-Make sure you extruder motor work accordingly to feed the nozzle. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OrXhn.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OrXhn.jpg&quot; alt=&quot; try to use long and thin hex key like this to push the filament out&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8018" LastActivityDate="2017-08-05T04:41:16.617" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4464" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3366" CreationDate="2017-08-07T13:11:52.883" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can't comment yet, but for those wondering, the issue with tinning the wires is when you are clamping them. Tinning them actually increases the resistance between the wires and terminal, due to making them harder and not getting squished out to make more contact with the terminal. This increased resistance means increased heat, and enough heat means fire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The reason for the prohibition is that when you fully tin a multistrand wire fully, the solder wicks between the strands of copper and forms a solid block, part of whose volume is metallic solder. When you clamp the solder and copper bundle you tighten the screw or clamp against the solder block, and in time the solder metal &quot;creeps&quot; under the compressive forces and the join loses tension. The wire can then either pull out or cause a high resistance connection with heating.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/29861/tinning-wires-that-will-be-screwed-in-to-a-chocolate-block-terminal-strip&quot;&gt;Source&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8038" LastActivityDate="2017-08-07T13:11:52.883" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4465" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4455" CreationDate="2017-08-07T13:15:39.947" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are heating your hotend to 60/80, that is &lt;em&gt;WAY&lt;/em&gt; too low. PLA should be at 180+ hotend, and if you are using a heated bed, 60-80.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would try increasing the heat of your hotend, starting at 180 and increasing if it looks like it is underextruding or if you get more clogs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8038" LastActivityDate="2017-08-07T13:15:39.947" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4466" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4459" CreationDate="2017-08-07T15:18:24.920" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an Anet A8 and these vibration dampers do a great job:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2103227&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Thingiverse: Vibration Damper for Anet A8&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7BZHq.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Vibration Damper for Anet A8&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7BZHq.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Vibration Damper for Anet A8&quot; title=&quot;Vibration Damper for Anet A8&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8040" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-09-30T09:56:16.830" LastActivityDate="2018-09-30T09:56:16.830" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4467" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4460" CreationDate="2017-08-07T16:06:19.013" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'll take a stab here, but my gut instinct is to say that a printed part will not sound the same as your original gourd resonator.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I believe the acoustics rely on the hardness, shape, and size of the material. In which case, a gourd is a hard and often thin material (after gutting it). Typical 3D printing materials will have a minimum thickness which may get in the way of achieving the same shape of the gourd resonator and plastics are typically going to be softer in hardness than your gourd.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, in short, I think if your try to replicate the resonator with 3D printing it will not sound the same. That may not be a bad thing, depending on what you're looking for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, who's to say the resonator has to be shaped like that? 3D printers allow us to manufacture parts that have historically been impossible to make and many instruments that we use today were designed hundreds of years ago with far less advanced tools available. I say its worth trying a replica of the gourd and then exploring other shapes to print that may affect the tonality of your instrument.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="98" LastActivityDate="2017-08-07T16:06:19.013" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4468" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4460" CreationDate="2017-08-07T16:10:09.603" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can't answer this from a technical 3D printing angle.  But, from a musical angle:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Where the body of an instrument has the primary function of enclosing a vibrating air column, the material has often been demonstrated to perhaps make a difference, but only a subtle one.  As an example, a recent range of plastic trombones, although not first-class instruments, have proved extremely playable (and have the great advantage of being virtually indestructable). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suggest you try this.  Play your instrument, dampening vibration of the cabaça with your hand or with a piece of cloth.  Just damp the shell externally.  Don't obstruct the hole or put anything inside.  Now, fill the cabaça with cotton wool or similar.  If the first makes little difference, you're probably good to go with a plastic cabaça.  Of course, if the second makes little difference either, we might have to suspect that the cabaça is mainly decorative!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could also experiment with alternative resonators of a similar size and capacity, available 'off the shelf', not worrying too much about a cosmetic match.  They might sound even better!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8042" LastActivityDate="2017-08-07T16:10:09.603" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4469" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-08-08T01:13:11.997" Score="6" ViewCount="4850" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am extending the bed of my TronXY X3 FDM RepRap printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am extending the bed from 220&amp;nbsp;mm x 220&amp;nbsp;mm to 220&amp;nbsp;mm x 300&amp;nbsp;mm.  For now, I will keep the existing bed and add and aluminum sheet on top.  That leaves 40mm on front and back of the original bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Right now I only plan on running PLA; but, I do plan on heating the bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How thick does the aluminum sheet need to be?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6417" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-07-08T14:50:51.067" LastActivityDate="2022-04-21T07:34:56.290" Title="How thick does an aluminum print bed need to be" Tags="|heated-bed|reprap|tronxy-x3|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4470" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4460" CreationDate="2017-08-08T05:42:43.730" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Here is a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rheothing.com/2015/06/resonance-in-plastics-and-metals.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;great answer&lt;/a&gt; to the underlying physics of resonance:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vZ1qL.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vZ1qL.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;A object rings because it has acquired energy in a way that it resonates - it vibrates at a frequency and with enough energy to generate sound waves. As long as the object has sufficient energy, it will continue to ring. It cannot ring forever as the sound waves gradually reduce the amount of energy that the object has. But generating sound waves not the only way that an object can lose energy, One of the ways that plastics differ from metals is that plastics are better able than metals to dissipate energy internally. Any plastic object will show some amount of viscosity dampening since all polymeric materials have a non-zero loss modulus curve. Metals can also have internal dissipation mechanisms, but they are far less prevalent than in plastics.&quot; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, we all know it, you can make plastic musical toys.  They never resonate as well as metal, glass, or wood; but, they often can work.  Here is an example of a &lt;a href=&quot;http://trombainstruments.com/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Trumpet&lt;/a&gt; made out of &lt;strong&gt;ABS!&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GgQIe.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GgQIe.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This plastic's magazine also makes it's pitch for using &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.plastics-themag.com/applications/let-there-be-music-with-plastics&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;plastics in musical instruments&lt;/a&gt; (most of which is also &lt;strong&gt;ABS&lt;/strong&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, if Young's Modulus is the key (as the first comment said), &lt;strong&gt;PLA&lt;/strong&gt; should be even better as &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.engineersedge.com/plastic/materials_common_plastic.htm&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;its' Young's Modulus is a bit larger than ABS&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All that said, all the plastic bells I have seen are generally pretty quiet. Plastic has a habit of absorbing energy and thus not being a very good resonator.  If you want to try, I think you are going to have to find a way to harden the plastic.  Maybe Acetone treated PLA as &lt;a href=&quot;https://benchapman4.wordpress.com/2014/05/08/increasing-toughness-of-3d-printed-plastic-using-acetone-vapor/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;that seems to harden it&lt;/a&gt;.  Maybe try something simple like printing a plastic bell.  If you can get that to ring, you are well on your well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/auugD.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/auugD.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6417" LastActivityDate="2017-08-08T05:42:43.730" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4471" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4482" CreationDate="2017-08-08T18:59:07.597" Score="2" ViewCount="957" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a mesh of a bowl that has the perfect shape of half a sphere. I want to easily convert it to the containing sphere solid and a box solid that will be subtracted from it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FlT0X.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Conversion process&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FlT0X.png&quot; alt=&quot;Conversion process&quot; title=&quot;Conversion process&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Googling mesh to solid shows that in various tools such as 3ds Max, Fusion, etc., manual approximation of where the sphere might go is created manually by visually comparing to the mesh or the cross section when creating the solid but I am looking for the minimum enclosing sphere and box to be generated/calculated by the software.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Source file format is of course not an issue, it can be any known mesh file.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5874" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-11-08T15:51:00.507" LastActivityDate="2022-09-13T20:01:35.673" Title="Converting a mesh to constructive solid geometry" Tags="|3d-models|cad|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4472" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4474" CreationDate="2017-08-08T20:51:19.497" Score="2" ViewCount="386" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am curious about the algorithm/principles behind the estimates that the slicing softwares provide. Is there a standard technique behind this and how accurate is it ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5923" LastActivityDate="2017-08-09T07:29:51.557" Title="How is the print time of an object to be printed estimated?" Tags="|slicing|g-code|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4473" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4471" CreationDate="2017-08-08T23:52:33.597" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The calculations for your objective could be considered simple geometry, although the results in terms of formulae are a bit more complex than simple, but not by much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.quora.com/What-is-the-volume-of-the-largest-cube-that-can-be-fitted-inside-a-sphere-of-radius-R&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Quora&lt;/a&gt;, the foundation for this goal is that the cube's eight vertices will be coincidental to the sphere's surface. If one desires to print a 3D object with this form, such an object may fail the requirement of being manifold, but may not, depending on the floating point operations of the software being used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found a simplistic formula which provides the radius of the sphere given the length of the side of the cube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$fn = 90;&#xA;edge = 10;&#xA;cube([edge, edge, edge], center = true);&#xA;sphere_radius = sqrt((3 * pow((edge/2), 2)));&#xA;sphere(sphere_radius);&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The above code is done in &lt;a href=&quot;https://openscad.org/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;OpenSCAD&lt;/a&gt;, resulting in this image with the sphere made transparent for clarity:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MI7qz.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MI7qz.png&quot; alt=&quot;cube inscribed in sphere&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Translated into general English, it appears that one can take the edge length, divided by 2, then take the square of that result and triple it. Take the square root of that value and it becomes the radius of the sphere.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The above answer is courtesy of &lt;a href=&quot;https://web.archive.org/web/20171123112402/http://mathforum.org/library/drmath/view/62515.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Math Forum&lt;/a&gt; and is represented verbatim as such:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;        ____________________________&#xA;  D = \| (L/2)^2 + (L/2)^2 + (L/2)^2&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The letter D in this case appears to be slightly misrepresented as diameter when it should be referred to as radius.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As part of this fun exercise, I also subtracted the cube from the sphere, slicing it in half for visibility, resulting in this image:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lAW9Z.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lAW9Z.png&quot; alt=&quot;sphere minus cube&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastEditorUserId="4808" LastEditDate="2022-09-13T20:01:35.673" LastActivityDate="2022-09-13T20:01:35.673" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4474" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4472" CreationDate="2017-08-09T00:06:09.160" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Generally speaking, the typical algorithm takes into account the slicer's speed settings for specific features of the build, such as infill, perimeters, top/bottom layers, etc. The distance traveled by the nozzle at a specific speed for each feature is also part of the equations involved. There are some rather vague portions of the nozzle movement based on acceleration and other factors which makes the calculations less accurate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;How accurate is it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not too accurate. My experience with three different slicers is that it's never been within better than ten percent. I believe the various combinations of features of a build are not going to be identical from one model to the next, preventing even a ballpark figure to be created from previous builds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastActivityDate="2017-08-09T00:06:09.160" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4476" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4472" CreationDate="2017-08-09T07:29:51.557" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Much of the software used in 3D printing is open-source, and so are some slicers. Cura, for instance, does (or did, this source code is from an older branch) its print time estimation in &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/smorloc/Curation/blob/master/Cura/util/gcodeInterpreter.py&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;gcodeInterpreter.py&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The relevant portion of the source code is (simplified and with many lines removed for clarity):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;    totalMoveTimeMinute = 0.0&#xA;    pos = util3d.Vector3()&#xA;&#xA;    for line in gcodeFile:&#xA;        G = self.getCodeInt(line, 'G')&#xA;        if G is not None:&#xA;            if G == 0 or G == 1:    #Move&#xA;                x = self.getCodeFloat(line, 'X')&#xA;                y = self.getCodeFloat(line, 'Y')&#xA;                z = self.getCodeFloat(line, 'Z')&#xA;                e = self.getCodeFloat(line, 'E')&#xA;                f = self.getCodeFloat(line, 'F')&#xA;                oldPos = pos.copy()&#xA;                pos.x = x&#xA;                pos.y = y&#xA;                pos.z = z&#xA;                feedrate = f&#xA;                currentE = e&#xA;&#xA;                totalMoveTimeMinute += (oldPos - pos).vsize() / feedRate&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you can see, (this version of) Cura simply:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Loops over all the G-code instructions,&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Computes the length of each move (in X/Y/Z) and divides that by the feedrate to get the time that move will take,&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Sums this up over all the moves.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and does not take into account:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Acceleration or deceleration. It assumes the printer is always operating at the maximum feedrate,&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The length of filament extruded. The feedrate is the speed for the move in (X,Y,Z,E), but Cura only looks at (X,Y,Z).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The time it takes to heat up the print bed/hotend or homing/autoleveling,&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The effects of the printer slowing down if moves can not be read (from USB/SD-card) sufficiently fast (though this would be rather hard to include in any estimate).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The accuracy of this estimate can be arbitrarily bad if the feedrate is set to some unrealistic value.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Newer versions of Cura use a much more advanced time estimate method, and it can be found in &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/Ultimaker/CuraEngine/blob/master/src/timeEstimate.cpp&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;timeEstimate.cpp&lt;/a&gt;.  It is much more complicated, and actually takes jerk/acceleration/deceleration into account. It is much more accurate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We know &lt;em&gt;exactly&lt;/em&gt; how 3D (open source) 3D printer firmwares work, so estimating print time is as easy as simulating execution of the G-code by your given firmware. There is no reason you can't get a really good estimation (if you take into account all of the intricacies of your given firmware's acceleration/deceleration techniques) but writing the code for it is rather involved.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastActivityDate="2017-08-09T07:29:51.557" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4477" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4469" CreationDate="2017-08-09T13:40:57.677" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Main factors that control the process of the print bed selection are&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;weight: too thick plate increases inertial force, limiting maximum acceleration/jerk (decreased print speed)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;stiffness: too thin plate will warp when heated or bend during calibration (decreased print quality/printer reliability)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For table sizes around 400x400mm I would think of 4mm plate, but it still can warp if heated unevenly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sometimes it makes sense to use a sandwich-type table: lower level is MDF, cork panel for heat insulation and thin (1.5-2mm) aluminum heated bed on top.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3839" LastActivityDate="2017-08-09T13:40:57.677" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4478" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4411" CreationDate="2017-08-09T21:28:12.753" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was using Cura's default settings for a Prusa I3 on my MonoPrice Select V2 (model #13860), and got horrible results frequently. Then I used the settings you list, and got very nice results. Compare the below images for the bottom layer of 4 benchys, with adhesion brim.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm using PLA, 0.4mm nozzle, 60C for bed, 200C for extruder, 1.75mm filament from Hatchbox.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Default Cura Settings&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/akAJu.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/akAJu.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Using default Cura settings&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Listed Settings&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Zg76A.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Zg76A.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Using recommended settings&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Settings breakdown&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Setting            Cura default    Recommended&#xA;Print Speed        60              50&#xA;Outer Wall Speed   30              15&#xA;Inner Wall Speed   60              30&#xA;Top/Bottom Speed   30              20&#xA;Travel Speed       120             80&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Symptoms of my printer being told to print too fast:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Material would not adhere properly to the print bed, and would start making clumps. These would rest either on the bed, or on the nozzle itself. The ones on the bed would grow taller than layer height, making the next pass of the nozzle bump against it, further depositing material on it. The clumps on the nozzle would drop at other points, leaving stringing filament all over, and further compromising the next pass of the head.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This might seem like a bed adhesion problem, but the prints were &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; well attached to the bed; I had to apply a lot of force to remove a 15*15cm square from the bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Increasing the hot-end temperature seemed to help; at some point we were printing at 230C, well beyond Hatchbox' extrusion temperature range (range is listed as 180C-210C for this PLA batch).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ultimately, reducing print speed to the settings listed helped us increase print quality back to acceptable levels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8066" LastActivityDate="2017-08-09T21:28:12.753" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4480" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4471" CreationDate="2017-08-10T06:07:49.143" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;So it depends a lot on what you want to do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If you want to mathematically calculate what cube fits in what size sphere, that is straight forward.  The &lt;a href=&quot;http://mathcentral.uregina.ca/qq/database/qq.09.04/brett1.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;diagonal for the cube&lt;/a&gt; has to fit into the diameter of the shere.  For a cube with edge 'l' and a shpere with diamamer 'd' then  &lt;img src=&quot;https://chart.googleapis.com/chart?cht=tx&amp;amp;chl=4l%5Csqrt%7B3%7D&quot; alt=&quot;&quot;&gt; &amp;lt;= d.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If you want to model a cube and a sphere in CAD (or one inside the other) you just do it.  They are both primitives.  Takes less than a minute.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HFqUZm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HFqUZm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol start=&quot;3&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You can use a mesh in a design too.  I would assume if you are wanting to use a mesh, the mesh must contain something other than just a smooth bowl or what the point of the mesh?  Fusion 360 allows you to import a mesh and play with it just like that and combine it with model objects (just like the box).  &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You can actually convert a mesh into a solid model if you want to too.  Fusion 360 CAD has ways to help you convert that mesh to a sculpt.  First create a sculpt object that represents the shape of the mesh object (like a sphere or a quadraball).  Next import the mesh then collapse the model over the mesh (using it like a model to form a mold).  You can then delett the mesh and use the molded sculpt.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6417" LastEditorUserId="6417" LastEditDate="2017-08-11T14:46:49.140" LastActivityDate="2017-08-11T14:46:49.140" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4482" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4471" CreationDate="2017-08-11T15:49:00.340" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The answers by @markshancock and @fred-dot-u describe the process of creating a CAD primitive sphere and subtracting a cube; this is a trivial task in most any 3D CAD program. You could manually measure the mesh to determine its dimensions, and frankly, I would recommend this approach. (If you have a large task like converting 100,000 half-sphere meshes, I'd re-think the approach and go to the source that generated the meshes in the first place!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, these don't address converting the mesh to a primitive, which is normally not possible for arbitrary meshes (therefore a CAD program will not have such a function), and much more difficult than simply measuring and re-creating.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You assert that your mesh file &quot;has the perfect shape of half a sphere&quot;. A mesh is basically on a collection of vertices, joined by edges and faces. The vertices are defined by numeric coordinates, and in a computer will always have some rounding errors, and the linear edges and planar faces are most definitely not round. Therefore, it may be incredibly close, but it will most definitely not be perfect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; particular case, the diameter of the sphere is the same as the diameter of the circular face of your half-sphere. You could plausibly write a simple program that would locate the maximum distance between any two vertices in your mesh and use that for the diameter. The midpoint of the line between those two points would be the center of the sphere. This should produce a good result but may not be &quot;exact&quot; depending on the details of the mesh.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I won't try to explain how to create the actual program as that is not in the scope of 3D printing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5704" LastActivityDate="2017-08-11T15:49:00.340" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4483" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3910" CreationDate="2017-08-12T17:48:15.463" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had a similar issue where slic3r generated supports that attach directly to the bed, but didn't put enough material around the thin supports on the first layer, so they didn't stick to the bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To solve this I added a brim, see &quot;skirt and brim&quot; under &quot;print settings&quot;. This puts more material around both the part and also the supports on the first layer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I didn't need the brim round the whole part as it was sticking to the bed just fine anyway, but this was the only way I could find to give the thin supports the wide base they need to stick to the bed. I used a 5mm brim, but I am sure it would work with less than this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8097" LastActivityDate="2017-08-12T17:48:15.463" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4484" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4511" CreationDate="2017-08-13T01:31:20.750" Score="2" ViewCount="1453" Body="&lt;p&gt;On my Mac I've got two versions of Cura installed, in &lt;code&gt;/Applications/Cura250&lt;/code&gt; and &lt;code&gt;/Applications/Cura262&lt;/code&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I copy my printer and profile settings from Cura 2.5 to Cura 2.6?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6851" LastActivityDate="2017-08-20T05:05:27.653" Title="How do I upgrade (copy settings) from Cura 2.5 to Cura 2.6?" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4485" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4389" CreationDate="2017-08-13T02:49:58.550" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;This was due to a slow Wifi connection.  It was fast enough for the low bandwidth of printer commands and status reports, but the video feed was overwhelming the connection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Adding a Wifi repeater increased the bandwidth and fixed the issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6851" LastActivityDate="2017-08-13T02:49:58.550" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4487" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4502" CreationDate="2017-08-13T15:21:25.787" Score="3" ViewCount="6254" Body="&lt;p&gt;For personal usage, indoor, I'm doing some experiments with following lamp (v0.1):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SrEhy.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SrEhy.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lamp is a led bulb enclosed in a methacrylate tube and with a 3D printed finish at the top using PLA (my first 3d print ;-).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In some www pages (by example, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.lifx.com/blogs/the-latest/19032975-how-hot-are-led-light-bulbs&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;) I've read that the led buld radiator can reach 90º C. Experimentally, the methacrylate and the PLA feels only slightly hot, I suppose around 40ºC.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to www info, PLA has a melting point of 150ºC, far from this usage, but a continuous operative temperature of only 40ºC ( !? this made 3d printing unable in a country as my own one, where ambient in summer is around 40ºC).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, my question, is PLA a valid material for this application? If not, some other one better?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks a lot. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8103" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2018-08-06T08:10:44.563" LastActivityDate="2018-08-06T08:10:44.563" Title="PLA continuous operative temperature" Tags="|pla|print-material|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4488" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4487" CreationDate="2017-08-13T22:50:50.393" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had a PLA print that would weaken and deform when sitting in the car on a hot day.   I think you should try it with ABS.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1397" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-08-05T17:50:11.253" LastActivityDate="2018-08-05T17:50:11.253" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4489" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4490" CreationDate="2017-08-14T00:36:39.433" Score="8" ViewCount="8493" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just got a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.indiegogo.com/projects/monoprice-mini-delta-affordable-starter-3d-printer/x/4856770#/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Monoprice MP Mini Delta&lt;/a&gt; from an Indiegogo Campaign, but it came with no printed docs. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do I get started?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8105" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-12-10T06:26:09.027" LastActivityDate="2019-12-10T06:26:09.027" Title="Monoprice MP Mini Delta - How to get started?" Tags="|monoprice-mini-delta|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4490" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4489" CreationDate="2017-08-14T00:36:39.433" Score="9" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Updated Manual&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Turns out an out of date manual was on the sd card that was included with the printer. But it was definitely out of date, as it referenced UI items that don't exist, and files that weren't on the SD card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;An updated manual can &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.mpminidelta.com/users_manual&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;be found here&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;or &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.dropbox.com/s/gl5vka5un1mkp2g/mini_delta_manual.pdf?dl=0&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;possibly out of date here&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Resources and sample files&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A very helpful &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.facebook.com/groups/mpminideltaowners/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Facebook group&lt;/a&gt; has a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.facebook.com/groups/mpminideltaowners/files/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;bunch of files&lt;/a&gt; that are good sample prints. If your manual says you can print a &lt;code&gt;cat.gcode&lt;/code&gt; you've got an old manual.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Note: Don't try and just google &lt;code&gt;cat.gcode&lt;/code&gt; as I did. The model I found rammed the print head right into the bottom of the printer. The correct model works great (actually called auto00.g on the SD card)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Another great reference site appears to be &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.mpminidelta.com/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.mpminidelta.com/&lt;/a&gt;, and this &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.reddit.com/r/mpminidelta/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;reddit&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Common Problems and Solutions&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The following are some problems I had and their solution&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Can't print custom models&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you find you can print prebuilt gcodes fine (cat,viking,toothless), but can't seem to print any other models without the print head ramming into the bottom of the printer and going off to the side, you probably haven't setup the autoleveling gcode that's &lt;strong&gt;required&lt;/strong&gt;. You can add something like the following line to your software, in a &amp;quot;startup&amp;quot; gcode section. This is detailed in the manual (just search for G29), and &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.mpminidelta.com/g29&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;more info can be found here&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;; auto-levels the build plate with a overall vertical &#xA;; offset of 0.3mm with a center offset of -0.8mm&#xA;G29 C-0.8 Z0.3 &#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;First layer doesnt stick&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you find your first layer isn't sticking, or it seems like the plastic is balling up, you need to adjust your startup gcode line mentioned above , so it has a lower Z offset, like Z0.25 for example&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;G29 Z[offset] ; raises&#xA;G29 Z-[offset] ; lowers&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;Notes&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Please try a positive offset value first.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Each printer will require fine tuning in regards to the offset value.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Start with a higher value and decrease as necessary to get good first layer adhesion.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Using a negative offset value may send the nozzle digging into the build plate.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8105" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:29:41.667" LastActivityDate="2017-08-17T19:50:24.103" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4492" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1109" CreationDate="2017-08-14T15:01:45.183" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't think there is a simple answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my opinion, for a home sensor accuracy doesn't matter.  Firmware usually allows setting an offset between the indicated position and the actual position.  What really matters is repeatability.  Every time the sensor indicates position, the position is the same.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Mechanical Switches&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have found through testing several mechanical switches that the &quot;make&quot; event is less repeatable than the &quot;break&quot; event.  For best results, I move toward the position that closes the switch, then move in the opposite direction until the switch opens.  If I remember correctly, I got &quot;make&quot; repeatability of about 0.02&quot; (0.5&amp;nbsp;mm), and &quot;break&quot; repeatability of about 0.005&quot; (0.13&amp;nbsp;mm).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Optical Switches&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a delta 3D printer, I use optical sensors.  Optical sensors have a built-in illumination and sensor, usually on opposite sides of a forked structure.  The sensor side has a slot which masks the light being received, helping to shroud it from ambient light.  The slot is along an axis which is either aligned with the fork or normal to it.  The flag you use for the interrupter should completely cover the slot, and for good repeatability edge of the flag must be parallel with the slot.  In other words, some sensors expect the flag to enter from the side while other expect the flag to enter from the top.  Either will work, but you need to choose the right sensor for the configuration of your machine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Ambient Light with Optical Switches&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Perhaps ambient light could be a problem.  If so, it could be addressed by shading the sensor.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's assume that the LEDs in the sensor are the same efficiency as the ambient LED lights.  For reference, here is a spec sheet for a typical optical interrupter used in optical sensors:  &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.isocom.com/images/stories/isocom/isocom_new_pdfs/H21A.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.isocom.com/images/stories/isocom/isocom_new_pdfs/H21A.pdf&lt;/a&gt;  The package of the optical sensor is designed to reduce susceptibility to ambient light.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Light intensity falls off as distance^2, and the illuminators in the sensor are very close.  How much effect does room light have on the sensor?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my shop, I use 8-foot LED replacement bulbs for the fluorescent bulbs.  With this, I have 72 watts of LED lighting, which, let's say, illuminate evenly the semi-sphere below the ceiling.  A full sphere is 12.56 sr (steradians, or stereo-radians), so the half sphere is 6.28 steradians, for a power of 11.46&amp;nbsp;W/sr.  At the sensor, this must be divided by the square of the distance, let's say 8 feet.   This gives us (11.46&amp;nbsp;W/sr)/(96in^2) = 0.119&amp;nbsp;W/area.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The illuminating LED has a power (typically) of 1.2&amp;nbsp;V * 0.05&amp;nbsp;A, or 0.06&amp;nbsp;W.  The light cone from a typical LED is about 30 degrees, which is 1 sr, for a power of 0.06&amp;nbsp;W/sr.  Scaled for an estimate of the distance between the emitter and sensor of 4&amp;nbsp;mm or 0.157&quot;, is (0.06&amp;nbsp;W/sr)/(0.157in^2) = 2.43&amp;nbsp;W/area.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems unlikely that general ambient light will be a problem.  If it were, the sensor mounting could be designed to shield the sensor from direct exposure to ambient light.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is important with optical sensors to be sure the interrupting flag is actually opaque to the illuminator light.  As I found, red PLA is not especially opaque to infrared light, so I needed to paint the flags with a black pigmented paint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Hall Effect Switches&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have no experience with Hall effect magnetic limit switches.  Other answers here have praised them because they have an adjustment which can be used to set the precise detection point.  I don' t like adjustments because they drift.  Pots are subject to wear, oxidation, and both slow and fast variation in their resistance.  I would prefer to have something unadjustable and repeatable in hardware and use software to hold the calibration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Example of Hybrid Choice&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On a 6-axis delta architecture CNC machine I build, I use a hybrid approach to sensing home position.  Mechanical switches indicate a position that is close to home, and the index pulse of a rotary encoder defines the precise home position.  The homing firmware moves toward home until the mechanical switch closes, then away until it opens, then back toward home until it detects the index pulse.   As there are six axes, there are six sets of these switches and encoders.  Using a mechanical switch for the rough homing made sense for this machine because the index sensor is hit once per revolution, so it is not a unique indicator of home, and this machine creates a lot of dust and chips, which could block an optical sensor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, without an absolute answer, my preference is for optical switches for repeatability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2082" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2019-10-16T15:57:47.050" LastActivityDate="2019-10-16T15:57:47.050" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4493" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-08-14T15:09:16.510" Score="-3" ViewCount="214" Body="&lt;p&gt;Carbon 3d made a 100x faster printer which has a simple and cheap mechanism using a Teflon layer. It appears to have a 20mn in RnD Costs and $7000 mass market production cost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only access method for one is a USD$ 161,250 yearly subscription.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Their printer is not available in shapeways... Is there something wrong with  Carbon 3D so that it does not view consumers as a direct market, and has no market news on it's website?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can they spend 222 million in investment money and not have a 3d printer in shapeways or public access? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6803" LastEditorUserId="6803" LastEditDate="2017-11-07T07:45:20.640" LastActivityDate="2017-12-10T14:19:17.880" Title="Why are Carbon 3D are not selling a home version?" Tags="|uv-printer|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4494" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4493" CreationDate="2017-08-15T01:04:22.067" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I will take the question seriously, and consider reasons why Carbon 3D might choose to offer their technology through a yearly subscription, rather than building a product accessible to the consumer market.  These reasons are speculation and do not reflect any specific knowledge about Carbon 3D, the details of their technology, or anything unique about their corporate mission.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) The mission of a company, especially in the beginning while competition makes it possible, to make as much money as possible.  If the technology is unique and brings good value to a large enough set of interested customers, it can easily consume the full attention of a company to service those customers.  The price those companies pay for access may be higher than others would pay because their derived value is higher.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) If a technology is new, and perhaps still somewhat immature, there may be very high support efforts and cost required.  Through this time, the learning curve does it's job, the technology improves and matures, and the costs go down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3) If the technology is immature, and perhaps is evolving quickly, it could be to the advantage of a supplier to only offer the technology on a service rather than capital acquisition basis.  It simplifies replacing components.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;4) If the technology is immature, selling the service may be easier than selling the hardware.  It simplifies the acquisition process, and makes it easier for customer's to expand their usage since the supplier's capital is used to finance the machines instead of the customer's.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;5) Even with a mature, proven technology, it can be advantageous to maintain a higher price point.  The game is optimizing the profit on volume times price.  The point they operate at is influenced by their perception of the market.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;6) In the early adopter phase, it is critical that the customer experience be stellar.  They may be limited in how rapidly they can scale in some critical dimension -- consumables supply chain, manufacturing capacity, trained installation technicians, local service offices, or many other limits.  Anything going wrong makes for a bad customer experience.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It doesn't surprise me that they aren't going after the consumer market at this time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But, I'm not in the CEO's office, and I don't see where his pain comes from.  My purpose here is only to propose some plausible reasons why the company has not launched a consumer facing product.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2082" LastActivityDate="2017-08-15T01:04:22.067" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4496" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4498" CreationDate="2017-08-15T09:28:01.347" Score="3" ViewCount="1643" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am experiencing a minor layer separation when printing a body for a tipping-bucket rain gauge, which is basically a hollow tube with thin walls (3 mm). I am using &lt;strong&gt;Prusa I3 MK2&lt;/strong&gt; and a &lt;strong&gt;Fillamentum ABS&lt;/strong&gt; white plastic. The model has been sliced in &lt;strong&gt;Siplify 3D&lt;/strong&gt; with the following settings:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;layer height: 0.2 mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;perimeter shells: 3 layers (almost entirely&#xA;fills up the wall)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;extruder temperature: 230 °C&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;printing speed: default - 50 mm/s, outline - 35 mm/s, infill - 35 mm/s&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it possible to prevent the irregular and layer separation by adjusting some of the settings, and not significantly increasing the printing time, which is already 13 hours?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PICTURES:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vNvWx.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vNvWx.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/93hzZ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/93hzZ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8114" LastActivityDate="2017-08-16T06:23:49.130" Title="How to prevent layer separation, when printing tall vase-like (tube) objects?" Tags="|prusa-i3|abs|simplify3d|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4497" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4484" CreationDate="2017-08-15T12:02:52.197" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hope this is all you need.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;From &lt;a href=&quot;https://ultimaker.com/en/products/cura-software/release-notes&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;the release notes page&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Cura 2.6 - June 20, 2017 Local version folders. When installing a new&#xA;  version of Cura, a new local directory will be created to make it easy&#xA;  to access old configuration folders and return to old settings if&#xA;  necessary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So if you know where your current 2.5 config directory is, you should be all set. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2191" LastActivityDate="2017-08-15T12:02:52.197" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4498" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4496" CreationDate="2017-08-15T12:19:06.047" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The best thing you can do for a large ABS print is to have an enclosure heated to 50C or better. For example, see &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.3dhubs.com/talk/thread/enclosed-vs-open-printers&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/comments/2ynb78/heated_build_enclosure_temperatures/?st=j6dk32oh&amp;amp;sh=2a550305&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.shapingbits.com/3d-printing-guide/abs-3d-printing/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt;, and other search results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4922" LastActivityDate="2017-08-15T12:19:06.047" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4499" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-08-15T23:06:11.503" Score="3" ViewCount="371" Body="&lt;p&gt;How can I convert 3D point cloud data to DICOM format (specifying slice width) or an equally scrollable sharp 2D image format?  Which software (preferably opensource or free) can I use to do this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've searched on Google and can't find anything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Chris&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8121" LastActivityDate="2018-10-15T05:34:39.057" Title="How do I convert point cloud data to DICOM?" Tags="|slicing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4500" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4496" CreationDate="2017-08-16T06:23:49.130" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;increasing the temperature by 5 to 10° as well as, increasing the layer thickness to &quot;0.3&quot; or &quot;0.35&quot; may assist ,additionally increasing the flow rate of the filament, by a small margin at most 10%. These options should improve the quality of the print as they improve the layer adhesion, however none of these options will completely solve the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;alternatively you can repair the current print. In order to do this you will need to use something cot such as a soldering iron with a variable temperature, to melt and rejoined the layers. similarly you can use a 3d pen to apply additional plastic across the sections of separation in order to repair it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8124" LastActivityDate="2017-08-16T06:23:49.130" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4502" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4487" CreationDate="2017-08-16T16:55:25.580" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/4488/5740&quot;&gt;EvilTeach's&lt;/a&gt; answer is correct, ABS is a more reliable plastic for any kind of work which may get above what feels &quot;hot to the touch.&quot; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just to elaborate on the why: the property you're looking for in the thermoplastic (which will determine the continuous operating temperature) is &lt;strong&gt;glass transition temperature&lt;/strong&gt;. This is the point at which the plastic begins to flow, and becomes deformable as EvilTeach described. PLA reaches this state at around &lt;strong&gt;60&amp;nbsp;°C&lt;/strong&gt;, whereas ABS is around &lt;strong&gt;105&amp;nbsp;°C&lt;/strong&gt;, just suiting your specifications. To go a bit further, polycarbonate offers a glass transition temperature of around 150&amp;nbsp;°C, and Ultem at 217&amp;nbsp;°C. So there's a thermoplastic for everyone, you just need to know what you're looking for!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8128" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-08-05T22:16:42.407" LastActivityDate="2018-08-05T22:16:42.407" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4503" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1109" CreationDate="2017-08-16T19:33:27.740" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;A separate issue not addressed in other answers is that the end stops for X/Y axes have different requirements than those for the Z axis.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;X/Y Axes&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the printer offers XYZ calibration (like Prusa i3 MK2), the properties of the X and Y switches play a role, since for the Z probing the probe should be centered above the fiducials (copper circles) in the bed. The XY part of the calibration measures the position of the fiducials relative to the end-stop trigger point. Then the Z calibration measures the height of each fiducial.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the XYZ calibration is not offered, there's usually no need for very repeatable positioning relative to the X and Y travel ends, and on most printers you could simply move the motors until they start skipping steps and call that a day - it will be accurate to within a few steps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Z Axis&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Z axis always has a high requirement on accuracy and repeatability, and there are two general approaches to determining its position:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;No end-stops on the Z-axis drive system, a probe is mounted on the print head and is used to detect when the head is a certain distance above the print bed. This can be used for 9-point calibration of the bed shape and thus removes the need for bed levelling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;End-stops used on the Z-axis drive system. No sensor on the print head. The bed needs to be separately leveled in reference to the nozzle - thus the bed leveling screws.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Delta Z&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For Delta, you essentially have three Z axis drivers, and similar to the Cartesian XYZ drive, you don't need any end-stops if you have a probe on the print head. You can also perform multi-point bed leveling with such a probe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Other Approaches&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;X and Y endstops become unnecessary once you use closed-loop stepper control, such as &lt;a href=&quot;http://tropical-labs.com/index.php/mechaduino&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Mechaduino&lt;/a&gt; or linear digital position sensors (e.g. as used in CNC machines).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Z probe is still useful if you don't want to perform bed leveling manually.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8131" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:29:41.667" LastActivityDate="2017-08-16T19:33:27.740" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4504" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4460" CreationDate="2017-08-16T19:49:04.447" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Of course. I've printed a 7 octave organ rank, so it's certainly possible. Organ pipes are quite special in that the material properties of the pipe play a secondary role in the tone, the primary role being played by the length and cross-section of the pipe, the elements surrounding the mouth of the pipe, and its other openings (end opening, and extra openings that sometimes are used to modify the overtones). It's also well understood how the pipe material properties affect the sound, so it's possible to design the printed pipe to mimic properties of either a wooden or a metal pipe, and anything in between.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on how big of a role the resonator's stiffness plays in the sound of the instrument, you might need to replicate some of mechanical properties of the Gourd shell - e.g. its stiffness - in the printed shape. Thus the inside of the print will have the shape of the inside of a Gourd, but the exterior may need to be much farther away, and then the infill percentage will play an important role, as well as the infill shape.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The shape of the interior of the gourd can be approximated by measuring some dimensions and sculpting an interior surface in a 3D modeler or CAD. Most likely a 3D scan is not necessary, unless you can get it done cheaply and with no fuss.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will also need to print full-size instruments. So this will not be cheap in terms of material used and printer time. I would benchmark the printed instrument at 3 shell thicknesses: 0.5, 1.0 and 1.5 inches, and 3 infill percentages: 20%, 35%, 50%. All with 3 perimeter layers, and cubic infill. The thick 1.5in shell with high infill will be the stiffest of them all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8131" LastEditorUserId="8131" LastEditDate="2018-08-01T18:19:31.080" LastActivityDate="2018-08-01T18:19:31.080" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4505" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-08-18T16:59:06.553" Score="0" ViewCount="404" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was looking for some advice on which 3D printers are good for someone who is just getting into 3D printing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have been looking at the Anet A8 on ebay but not sure if they are any good or not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regards&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8147" LastEditorUserId="8052" LastEditDate="2017-08-23T12:08:04.350" LastActivityDate="2017-08-30T08:58:39.793" Title="Which 3D printer is good for beginners?" Tags="|3d-models|3d-design|print-quality|desktop-printer|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2017-09-06T07:18:05.047" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4506" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4310" CreationDate="2017-08-18T18:59:30.407" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I print such parts by embedding the PCB directly in the print during the printing process: after the bottom part has been printed, there's a print pause gcode, the printer stops and beeps, I insert the PCB into a recess in the print, then the printer resumes when I press a button. I attach the bottom of the PCB to the print with a drop of a quick setting superglue so that it won't have a chance of getting loose and crashing into the nozzle as the next layer is printed. I use a 0.2mm nozzle to print SD card shells directly over PCB without any issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8131" LastActivityDate="2017-08-18T18:59:30.407" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4507" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4459" CreationDate="2017-08-18T20:12:47.420" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Change DRV8825 / A49nn series on board stepper driver with Trinamics TM2100 ( in silentChop mode) will make your step motors almost silent. They are outstanding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But there are couple of disadvantages:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There is chance of losing steps in slientChop (Would not effect print quality in my experience)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;TMC2100 is 5-6x times more expensive than DRV8825&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Require soldering and electronic knowledge&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;TMC2100 runs hotter&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5007" LastActivityDate="2017-08-18T20:12:47.420" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4508" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4523" CreationDate="2017-08-18T22:17:44.267" Score="5" ViewCount="944" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am wondering if anyone can help me achieve a good 3d print using polypropylene. I am trying to print custom insoles for shoes and I'm getting some bad warping/lifting (see image).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZKi1R.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZKi1R.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;example of warping using polypropylene&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some details about the print and process:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I have a Prusa i3 Mk2S with a Flexion extruder&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I am using what I believe is a good quality filament (Verbatim PP): &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.verbatim.com.au/3d-printing/pp-filament/3d-pp-filament.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.verbatim.com.au/3d-printing/pp-filament/3d-pp-filament.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I am coating my hotbead with clear packaging adhesive (OPP tape) as per the manufacturers instructions. This appears to help quite a bit.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bed heated to 75 degrees. I tried 100 but got hit with the &quot;Heatbed Thermal Runaway&quot; error which I believe indicates that not enough voltage is getting to the bed heater.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I've tried printing at 220 degrees and 170 degrees.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I've tried enclosing the printer in a makeshift enclosure to reduce the speed that the material is cooling at.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Other settings: speed 40mm/s constant, 0.2mm layer height, 20% infill, 3 top bottom and side layers. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The print takes about 5 hours and seems to stay down for an hour or two before starting to warp.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone have any suggestions of things I should try?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8150" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2018-09-16T12:46:36.257" LastActivityDate="2018-09-16T12:46:36.257" Title="Help preventing warping while 3d printing with polypropylene" Tags="|filament|print-quality|warping|pp|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4509" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4514" CreationDate="2017-08-19T13:27:50.473" Score="0" ViewCount="127" Body="&lt;p&gt;before a mesh can be printed it needs to be 'repaired'. According to most tutorials that is including making the shape close and removing inner shapes. Reading through B-REP in Wikipedia there is no layman term or explanation how it differs form the traditional polygonal mesh create for example from scanning or exporting from CAD. Is B-REP a mesh that only represents a boundary and therefore ready to be printed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5874" LastActivityDate="2017-08-20T10:08:11.897" Title="Is B-REP a ready to print mesh" Tags="|3d-models|cad|repair|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4510" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4505" CreationDate="2017-08-19T21:55:17.720" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;A budget would make answering your question alot easier. Do you have any experience with cad/cam software? What are you wanting to do with it? There are many inexpensive 3d printers but your skill level in mechanics/machinery, electronics, programming etc will also help others choose a good option for you. For example, plug and play units are usually more expensive than build your own models. But if you don't have the skill to assemble it the savings wasn't worth it&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8162" LastActivityDate="2017-08-19T21:55:17.720" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4511" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4484" CreationDate="2017-08-20T05:05:27.653" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;From the &lt;a href=&quot;https://ultimaker.com/en/community/50751-how-to-copy-machine-and-profile-settings-from-cura-25-to-cura-26?page=1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Ultimaker Forum&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Launch Cura 2.6 and go to Help -&gt; Show Configuration folder. Now close Cura.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;These are the configuration files for Cura 2.6. They are in a folder named 2.6.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;On OSX, the configuration files for Cura 2.5 are one folder up (not in a folder named 2.5). You can copy files from that parent folder into the folder named 2.6, and Cura should update them as needed the next time it is started.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6851" LastActivityDate="2017-08-20T05:05:27.653" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4512" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4508" CreationDate="2017-08-20T08:08:37.823" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should enable the &quot;brim&quot; functionality of your slicer. This adds additional perimeters to the first layer, expanding the base of the model. The larger surface area gives more adhesion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastActivityDate="2017-08-20T08:08:37.823" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4513" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4505" CreationDate="2017-08-20T08:25:08.547" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Short answer:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anet A8 in Ebay will be probably a kit &quot;do it yourself&quot;. Something not easy for starters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suggest you buy a cheap and ready to use one. A rebrand of Malyan M200 (Monoprice select mini in U.S., Prima Creator in Europe) or something similar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Long answer:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To select a printer take into account:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;your experience in 3d printing&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;your experience in electronics and software.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;your objective: learning, home user, professional?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;if it will be used by children.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;your budget&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the kind of materials you plan to use: PLA only, mainly PLA and ABS, others. PLA only printers are usually a few cheaper because they do not have heat bed.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;availability of support: official support, community size, market penetration.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;build volume  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Taken into account previous criteria: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Anet A8 is usually a Prusa diy kit. As all these kits, it is more&#xA;suitable when there are experience in 3d and hardware/software.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If the answer to previous questions is &quot;no experience, home user, adults and childrens, medium badget, PLA&amp;amp;ABS, good support, small volume&quot;, a printer as Malyan M200 can be a good choice. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A printer as Flashforge finder differs respect to the previous that it has no heated bed. That means it is more suitable for PLA only.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;(addition of more cases is welcome)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;NOTE: This answer is a community wiki to promote multiple editions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8103" LastEditorUserId="8103" LastEditDate="2017-08-20T10:14:39.320" LastActivityDate="2017-08-20T10:14:39.320" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2017-08-20T08:39:18.790" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4514" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4509" CreationDate="2017-08-20T10:08:11.897" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;a) about &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Is B-REP a mesh that only represents a boundary [..] ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;B-Rep contains more information, see &lt;a href=&quot;https://pages.mtu.edu/~shene/COURSES/cs3621/NOTES/model/b-rep.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;There are two types of information in a B-rep: topological and&#xA;  geometric. Topological information provide the relationships among&#xA;  vertices, edges and faces similar to that used in a wireframe model.&#xA;  In addition to connectivity, topological information also include&#xA;  orientation of edges and faces. Geometric information are usually&#xA;  equations of the edges and faces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;b) about &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;and therefore ready to be printed&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;it is need not only check that the model is correct (no lack of a face, no wrong face normals, ...) but also that is valid for a 3d printer (no &quot;floating&quot; parts, addition of supports, ...).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, recall the model is not what drives the printer, the printer is controlled by the machine instructions, usually gcode. Thus, the usual evolution is: parts description (.scad, ...), model format (.stl, ...) and machine instructions (.gcode).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8103" LastActivityDate="2017-08-20T10:08:11.897" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4516" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4505" CreationDate="2017-08-20T15:01:42.877" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Which printer for a beginner depends far more on the beginner in question than the various printers available. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you are comfortable assembling parts and figuring things out a number of options exist. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you need a fully-built object, a number of options exist.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you require lots of dedicated support, via phone or email, there&#xA;are options.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you can ask questions in a forum and get the answers you need (or&#xA;figure things out when you don't and post your answers for others to&#xA;find) there are options.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have special/esoteric printing needs, that puts constraints on - if you kinda vaguely want a 3-D plastic printer, but don't really know what you want to use it for the field is wide open.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6853" LastActivityDate="2017-08-20T15:01:42.877" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4517" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-08-21T00:13:49.903" Score="3" ViewCount="773" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm about to start building a CoreXY style printer and can't decide which bearings/bushings to buy. My first printer was a Delta with belts and opendbuilds wheels, so I'm lost regarding this matter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyone tried these self-lubricating graphite bushings? &#xA;How do they perform compared to the standard LMUU bearings?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.robotdigg.com/product/175/Selfgraphite-ID8*OD12-Linear-Bearing&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Robotdigg link&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.aliexpress.com/item/2Pcs-JDB121810-JDB121812-JDB121815-JDB121825-JDB121830-linear-graphite-copper-set-bearing-copper-bushing/32816437120.html?spm=2114.search0104.3.1.1kluAU&amp;amp;ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_4_10152_10065_10151_10068_5400015_10307_10137_10060_10155_10154_5370011_10056_10055_10054_10059_5380011_100031_10099_5410011_10103_10102_5430015_10052_10053_10142_10107_10050_10051_10173_10326_10084_10083_10080_10082_10081_10110_10111_10112_5390011_10113_10114_10312_10313_10314_10315_10316_10078_10079_10073_5420011,searchweb201603_4,ppcSwitch_5&amp;amp;btsid=9a0d0a63-ec76-4770-8e99-d07e34394e8b&amp;amp;algo_expid=1aaa60b4-49e3-4613-a914-98026da4a9c5-0&amp;amp;algo_pvid=1aaa60b4-49e3-4613-a914-98026da4a9c5&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Aliexpress link&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do they run smoother, more silent?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do they have play?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do they stall after a while? Need maintenance?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Any feedback is much appreciated.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8170" LastActivityDate="2017-10-07T20:52:26.823" Title="Graphite self-lubricating bushings performance?" Tags="|bearing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4520" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-08-21T09:01:08.207" Score="1" ViewCount="1488" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have started printing with PETG so I can create objects that won't deform if I leave them in my car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My first prints look good, but have strings of material coming off the print in places.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What should I try to prevent that? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I haven't had this problem with PLA. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7223" LastActivityDate="2017-10-16T07:31:54.170" Title="Stringy PETG prints" Tags="|pet|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4521" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-08-21T09:43:04.600" Score="4" ViewCount="629" Body="&lt;p&gt;On my Monoprice Delta Mini, auto-leveling is performed based on three pushbuttons, on which the printer platform rests: The nozzle moves downwards until one of the buttons detects being pushed down. Using the &lt;code&gt;G29&lt;/code&gt; G-code, this is performed automatically at three points close to the locations of these sensor buttons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, even after this calibration, the printer expects the platform at one of the test points to be lower than it actually is. Thus, when printing close to the front right sensor button, the printer &amp;quot;smears&amp;quot; the plastic onto the platform. At the other locations, the printing works fine. Therefore, I cannot simply adjust the overall Z-distance. (Multi-point auto-leveling gives even worse results since the platform tilts during the probing.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a G-code-based option to modify the Z-height of just one of the calibration points of the auto-leveling?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: The bad leveling seems to be a common problem of this printer:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.reddit.com/r/mpminidelta/comments/73xcxg/leveling_doesnt_seem_right/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.reddit.com/r/mpminidelta/comments/73xcxg/leveling_doesnt_seem_right/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.reddit.com/r/mpminidelta/comments/6tqe7f/follow_up_on_bed_leveling_issue/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.reddit.com/r/mpminidelta/comments/6tqe7f/follow_up_on_bed_leveling_issue/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Till now, nobody seems to have a solution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8175" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-07-09T22:47:44.487" LastActivityDate="2021-07-09T22:48:06.527" Title="Single point Z-correction after 3-point auto-leveling" Tags="|g-code|delta|monoprice-mini-delta|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4522" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4304" CreationDate="2017-08-21T10:14:49.387" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am using the same printer and stopped trying to upgrade to higher CURA. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To my knowledge the branding of the Wanhao Cura Edition is that this Cura knows the specific firmware of your printer and thus is able to do printer specific tasks like calculating printing times etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I assume that copying the settings does only copy the settings and not the firmware info of your printer. If these settings however build on firmware info in the Cura wanhao edition, things could get messed up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would try uninstalling Cura, make sure the folder with the settings is deleted, reinstall and set it up from scratch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your motivation for the upgrade is feature-richness, you could also take a look at &lt;a href=&quot;http://slic3r.org/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;slic3r&lt;/a&gt; instead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8177" LastActivityDate="2017-08-21T10:14:49.387" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4523" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4508" CreationDate="2017-08-21T13:18:55.677" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Try heating your enclosure to 50C, as well as adding a brim.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4922" LastActivityDate="2017-08-21T13:18:55.677" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4525" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4521" CreationDate="2017-08-21T21:00:02.420" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is no &quot;standard&quot; g-code, especially for the auxiliary functions of calibration, and even more so for the calibration of delta-class printers.  I find that the Reprap Wiki includes a fairly comprehensive list: &lt;a href=&quot;http://reprap.org/wiki/RepRap_Firmware_G-Codes&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://reprap.org/wiki/RepRap_Firmware_G-Codes&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://reprap.org/wiki/G-code&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://reprap.org/wiki/G-code&lt;/a&gt;.  These lists address the RepRap firmware, although they include some g-code functions which are specific to other types of applications.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the Monoprice Delta firmware is based on the RepRap firmware, the lists might be helpful, although detailed documention from Monoprice would be the best reference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming there is no available or known g-code to adjust this, you work from the hypothesis that your three switches are not responding identically.  If possible, use a micrometer to measure the difference between the &quot;idle&quot; position of the bed and the point where the switch actuates.  It could be that the front switch requires more travel before actuation, which would then cause the leveling calculation to have a lower point for the front switch.  In the alternative to measuring, it may be possible to exchange the front switch with a rear/side switch and see if the problem moves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Delta machines are more difficult to calibrate because everything interacts.  The three actuator delta machine is a simplification of a more complex 6-axis Stewart platform.  As I see it, a delta machine is a 6-actuator machine in which pairs of actuators operate &quot;identically&quot;, except that minor variations cause unexpected positioning errors.  Sometimes these are modeled as a bowl shape with positive or negative curvature, although measurements I've made on my home-brew delta show an error that looks more like a carpet in a high wind.  Some factors improve the design, such as longer actuator arm pairs and smaller build diameter, which may help you with the Monoprice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2082" LastActivityDate="2017-08-21T21:00:02.420" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4526" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4225" CreationDate="2017-08-21T21:43:58.827" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't know details of your printer, the motor drivers, the firmware, or the wiring harness.  I only have looked photos at the ANET-A8.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your question has ruled out a complex-axis movement caused by auto-leveling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Printers that are not based on simple cartesian actuators, such as delta or core-xy machines use multiple actuators to make what results in a simple, single axis head movement.  Your printer is not based on one of these mechanisms, but if the printer were temporarily misconfigured, it may move unexpectedly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the hardware side, some stepper drivers work with &quot;step&quot; and &quot;direction&quot; inputs.  If there is a problem with signal integrity on these signals as referenced to the stepper driver's ground, you may be introducing an unintended step pulse.  Stepper drivers typically use pulse-width-modulation (PWM) to set the power through each of the two motor windings (coils), and generate noise that depends on too many factors to list.  Check that you have a direct ground wire from the stepper drivers to the controller board.  If the drivers are integral with the controller board, one would hope the PCB was well designed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is possible the motion is caused by some force causing unpowered stepper motors to move, although most unpowered motors will still have a bit of detent torque resisting motion.  This would require that Z-axis movement was causing some force on the other axes.  For the ANET-A8, the filament could apply side-to-side force to the extruder when moved up or down, but it is difficult to see how it could cause front-to-back movement of the bed.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your code may allow you to set the idle motor current as well as the active current.  If so, you could try setting the idle current at, say, 80% of the idle current.  Your motors will be hotter when idle, but should not overheat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2082" LastActivityDate="2017-08-21T21:43:58.827" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4527" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-08-22T11:58:52.227" Score="8" ViewCount="4075" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm /relatively/ new to 3d printing (I'm getting pretty good prints from my Wanhao di3 plus, but haven't done any DIY kits or anything) and materials engineering is probably the furthest thing from my area of expertise so I thought I would pose this to more experienced makers:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I'm building a large scale printer (probably a similar size to substation33 - sub33D's 1200x1200 printer) that I'm only going to print in PLA and MAYBE ABS occasionally, can I substitute the heated bed for simply heating the entire enclosure?&#xA;The idea would be to have a thermistor measuring the ambient air temp inside the enclosure with a heat gun or two to hear the entire enclosure as necessary. I want to do this to try and reduce the cost (significantly as far as I can tell) as it seems 400*400 silicone heat pads tend to go for about 80 bucks a pop.&#xA;An alternate idea I had was to use two or three heat pads and space them evenly under a glass bed, although I feel that this won't work as well because the heating won't be homogenous...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any input is appreciated :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8184" LastActivityDate="2023-03-10T20:14:39.703" Title="Heated Bed vs Heated enclosure for large scale printer" Tags="|heated-bed|heat-management|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4528" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4527" CreationDate="2017-08-22T12:11:21.077" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you want to print ABS at even one third of that scale, you will want a heated bed &lt;strong&gt;and&lt;/strong&gt; a heated enclosure. Posts here (and my personal experience) support this; unfortunately, I can't find an impartial, non-anecdotal source to cite.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4922" LastActivityDate="2017-08-22T12:11:21.077" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4529" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="241" CreationDate="2017-08-22T15:29:32.197" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;From the decay curve of the temperature graph, it appears that the firmware is filtering the temperature signal.  Since it jumps up so quickly, I suspect that the thermister is indicating a much higher than 10-degree temperature change, but after filtering the result is a ten-degree change.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the problem were a bad connection to the typical thermistor, the temperature would appear to be much lower, not much higher. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An electrical fault that would cause a typical negative temperature coefficient thermistor to indicate an intermittent high temperature could be a short circuit or some other condition that could cause 0 voltage across the thermister.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your circuitry may be different, but I would suggest that several circuits I've seen on 3D printers to sense temperature have one side of the thermistor connected to ground, with the other side connected both to a pull-up resistor to Vcc (+5 or +3.3 depending on the electronics) and to an analog input which samples (measures) the voltage.  If the powered thermistor line shorts to ground anywhere, it will show 0 volts.  If the pull-up resistor is disconnected from the power source, it will show 0 volts.  If either thermistor line has extra connection resistance or has a bad connection, the voltage will be closer to Vcc than it should be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could check this possibility by connecting a voltmeter or oscilloscope to the non-grounded thermister line, and then monitoring the voltage.  The voltage should always appear to smoothly change (limited by the thermal physics of the bed. Try moving the bed and/or head through the range.  Try tapping the bed, cables, and electronics while looking for a change.  Any sudden change indicated a connection problem.  The voltage going up indicates an open circuit to the thermistor.  The voltage going down indicates a short.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2082" LastActivityDate="2017-08-22T15:29:32.197" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4530" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4547" CreationDate="2017-08-22T19:32:11.643" Score="5" ViewCount="2266" Body="&lt;p&gt;I print my ABS at:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;240 °C;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;with a bedtemp of 80 °C; &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;5 % rectilinear infill;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;0.25 mm layer height;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2 solid layers top and bottom; &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fan is completely disabled;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;0.25 mm extrusion width;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;50 mm/s perimeter print speed;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;60 mm/s infill speed;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;20 mm/s top solid and solid speed;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;No acceleration.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When printing ABS, I place  an aluminum foil lined cardboard box over my printer to help keep the ambient temps up for less warping and stronger prints. I've never actually measured the temperature inside, but the cardboard box insulates very well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I get this weird kind of tearing in my prints, I'm not sure if it's from too large of gaps in my infill, too fast print speeds, or not enough top layers. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/r0Y27.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Torn print&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/r0Y27.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Torn print&quot; title=&quot;Torn print&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another guess is some kind of drooping because of the high ambient temps. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The tearing only occurs on large top layer surfaces. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7355" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-11-23T20:42:56.223" LastActivityDate="2019-11-23T20:42:56.223" Title="Weird ripping and warping of ABS print" Tags="|print-quality|abs|desktop-printer|heat-management|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4531" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4530" CreationDate="2017-08-22T19:41:20.670" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I believe it is from the ABS falling into the gaps of your 10% infill. I print ABS with 35% honeycomb infill and I use five or more solid top layers at 240°C. Fewer, and it sags into (or exposes) the infill layers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I recommend more top layers and a higher infill percentage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also recommend starting the cooling fan at 50% capacity or more, before starting the first solid top layer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4922" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-06-06T23:04:00.390" LastActivityDate="2018-06-06T23:04:00.390" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4533" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4534" CreationDate="2017-08-22T23:31:18.417" Score="-3" ViewCount="201" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm interested in printing small machine parts (gears, linkages, structural components) so I'm looking for accuracy and mechanical strength over speed and volume.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm also somewhat concerned about harmful emissions so would like a solution with some sort of filtration, whether it's built into the machine or something added. I'm thinking I will run the machine in an unventilated garage, which is quite warm and humid during the summer in Texas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My price range is \$1500-\$2000 USD. I've looked at several options but I didn't really come across any scenarios like I've described and would like some advice from the experts before committing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyone in a similar boat have any suggestions?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8191" LastEditorUserId="5" LastEditDate="2018-09-14T00:45:15.790" LastActivityDate="2018-09-14T00:45:15.790" Title="Printer/Material/Setup recommendation for printing mechanical parts" Tags="|print-quality|print-material|ventilation|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2017-09-06T07:26:56.720" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4534" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4533" CreationDate="2017-08-22T23:49:18.080" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your environmental conditions will preclude finding a machine suitable for your purposes in the budget specified.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Humidity is a problem with many material types, especially nylon, but also with PLA and ABS, the more common filaments used in 3D printing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can likely reject PLA for your mechanical needs, as it is brittle and weak compared to ABS. PLA releases virtually no gases of concern, while some find ABS fumes to be offensive and dangerous. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The humidity issue is forefront in your search. You may have to construct within the garage a chamber in which you would operate a portable or window air conditioner unit, to keep the humidity in check. If you can assign a different budget to such a construction, that will leave your printer funding intact and better able to address your goal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Selective Laser Sintering using nylon powder, also susceptible to humidity, which is sintered by a laser, hence the name, making very detailed and strong parts. The process is also self-supporting, allowing for fairly intricate parts. Once the machine is calibrated, the part accuracy can be quite good. Unfortunately, SLS machines are also out of the budget range you've noted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can use an external service to print the parts you design, at least at first, to get a better indication of how the various materials will work for you. Start with PLA, then move to ABS for a set of test parts, and even perhaps have some printed using SLS.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you find, for example, that ABS will be strong enough, you might find an affordable 3D printer which will generate parts on your budget and timeline. For printing ABS, the warmer temperatures are to your advantage, but the humidity has to be properly addressed in any home/shop/garage installation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastActivityDate="2017-08-22T23:49:18.080" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4535" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4530" CreationDate="2017-08-23T16:32:02.303" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;This looks a bit like you may have a level issue with your printer. I've had similar results when my nozzle isn't clean and my bed is slightly off level. When the nozzle isn't clean (inside and out) either the flow rate out is different than what you set it to be due to back pressure or there is material on the nozzle causing the nozzle to drag through the molten plastic. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also use a lower nozzle temperature, around 220-230°C. Printing with 10% infill is my standard setting with two shell layers, honeycomb fill or diamond fill. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5518" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-06-06T23:03:46.290" LastActivityDate="2018-06-06T23:03:46.290" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4536" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4538" CreationDate="2017-08-24T00:37:58.567" Score="3" ViewCount="1008" Body="&lt;p&gt;Today I installed an inductive sensor (4 mm sensing distance, NPN) on my printer to perform auto-bed leveling. The sensor works at 12 V and the board at 5 V, so I used a voltage divider (as suggested in many places online) using a 10kOhm and a 15kOhm resistor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In testing the sensor, I noticed that the sensor's LED turns on, but the printer (Anet A8) doesn't recognize the fact that the sensor is triggering. I'm running the Skynet3D firmware, though I still have not switched to the version with auto bed-leveling. Regardless, the inductive sensor should still act as a limit switch, yet the Z-Axis motor does not stop when the sensor triggers. Am I doing something wrong, or missing a step?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have also measured the voltage across the leads that connect to the board and the voltage is slightly over 5 V when the sensor is not triggered, and lowers to around 2.5 V when the sensor triggers. I get the feeling it should be closer to 0 V.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you very much for any help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8168" LastActivityDate="2017-08-24T07:55:54.870" Title="Auto Bed Levelling - Printer not detecting, but sensor is triggering" Tags="|electronics|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4537" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4527" CreationDate="2017-08-24T07:33:37.827" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The point of using a heated bed it's to keep the part within a certain range of temperature while printing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, it's all about thermodynamic. It will be easier to keep the part at the desired temperature if the contact surface with the hot environment is larger, so, it might reduce warping and other related problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway, it might be enough to have just the heated bed in contact with the part and not the whole environment to reduce the problems of abs printing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can check Tom3D's post, &lt;a href=&quot;https://toms3d.org/2017/07/23/abs-hotter-nozzle-or-ambient/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;3D printing with ABS: Hotter nozzle or hotter ambient? #Filaween&lt;/a&gt;, and video, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zBJk3URhXAo&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;YouTube - 3D printing with ABS: Hotter nozzle or hotter ambient? #Filaween&lt;/a&gt;, it might help you choose what to do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8203" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-08-09T11:43:04.180" LastActivityDate="2018-08-09T11:43:04.180" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4538" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4536" CreationDate="2017-08-24T07:55:54.870" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Perhaps the culprit is a pull-up resistor on the board. Normally, endstops on 3D printers use the microcontroller's internal pullups. These have a resistance of around 50kΩ, which is far too high to be a problem. However, if lower value pull up resistors are used on your main board, this could cause a problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The resistor of your voltage divider form, when the output of the sensor is low, a parallel pair of resistors to ground, with an effective resistance equal to &lt;code&gt;1/(1/10+1/15) = 6kΩ&lt;/code&gt;. If there was (let's say) a 4.7k pull-up resistor on the board, you'd expect to see around 2.8V on the output (because the pull-up resistor, together with the two resistors of your voltage divider, forms another voltage divider).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't have the Anet A8 main board myself, but on pictures I do see a set of 6 resistors suspiciously close to the thermistor and endstop connectors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could verify my suspicions by unplugging the endstop, powering down the electronics and then measuring the resistance between the endstop signal and 5V pins.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Possible solutions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Desolder the offending resistor. This is pretty easy with SMD parts: you just alternate between heating up both sides until it slides off.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Use a diode in place of a voltage divider. Anode goes to the endstop connector, cathode to the signal of the probe. This prevents the high voltage of the probe from being seen by the electronics, while allowing the probe to drain the current from the pull-up resistor.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With this last solution, make sure the reverse leakage current of the diode is not too high. If it has a reverse current of (let's say) 50uA, then 50uA flowing through the (supposed 4.7k) pull-up to ground would raise the voltage at the signal pin to 5.002V. This is unlikely to be a problem, but with higher value resistors or higher leakage you'd see the voltage raise higher above 5V (which the microcontroller won't like).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastActivityDate="2017-08-24T07:55:54.870" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4540" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4395" CreationDate="2017-08-24T19:23:03.363" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In addition to &lt;a href=&quot;/a/4438&quot;&gt;this answer&lt;/a&gt;, the &quot;Machine Center is Zero&quot;, should &lt;strong&gt;not&lt;/strong&gt; be checked. It will begin the print in the current location of the Printing Head.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8213" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-07-18T02:41:10.897" LastActivityDate="2019-07-18T02:41:10.897" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4542" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-08-25T06:31:02.997" Score="4" ViewCount="663" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am an art rubber stamp maker, using a vulcanizer to make art rubber stamps from molds that are usually created with a magnesium plate.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The normal process is to send artwork off to an engraving firm to acid etch the magnesium plate (11 pt depth is desired) and that metal plate is then used with uncured matrix boards (a bakelight type material) that is &quot;cured&quot; in the vulcanizer that is then used over and over to make as many images of the rubber stamps as one would want.  The vulcanizer heats up to 300 to 320&amp;nbsp;°F, and one usually uses 2000 to 2500 p.s.i. of pressure for 10 to 15 minutes to cure a mold.  Once the mold is cured, it is impervious to the heat used in the vulcanizer, and the heat is used to cure the unvulcanized rubber (again, 300 or so degrees, 2000 psi, or so, for 8 to 10 minutes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In reading up about the melting points of PLA and ABS, the 200&amp;nbsp;°C equates to around 460&amp;nbsp;°F, so there doesn't seem like the heat of the vulcanizer will be an issue, and the pressure isn't applied all at once, one usually allows the uncured matrix board to heat up before the high pressure is obtained, I'm just curious if any other stamp makers have had success with this method and/or have any suggestions about STL files for this type of printing, if there needs to be 2 or 3 degree shoulder angle added to the file configuration, or any other suggestions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-07-18T01:12:22.980" LastActivityDate="2019-07-22T08:42:47.583" Title="Looking to use 3D printing to make a master plate for rubber stamp vulcanizing" Tags="|pla|3d-design|software|abs|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4543" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4542" CreationDate="2017-08-25T06:51:07.583" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't know if I understood your question properly. You using the mold to create a rubber stamp and then you use that to stamp over stuff? If so, you simply can use 3D printing to create the stamp, if not, my answer is rubbish. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can use a flex material to create the stamp itself and then use some hard material to create the handle. Also, you can create a mold around the stamp and use resin to fill it and/or create a resin mold and then use that mold to create the stamps by filling the &quot;holes&quot; with more resin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8203" LastActivityDate="2017-08-25T06:51:07.583" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4544" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4542" CreationDate="2017-08-25T07:27:51.993" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;This would likely not work. ABS has a &lt;em&gt;glass transition&lt;/em&gt; temperature of 105&amp;nbsp;°C. It doesn't have &lt;em&gt;a&lt;/em&gt; melting point because it's amorphous. Rather, as you heat the part up, it gradually transitions from a solid to a viscous liquid, but there is no &quot;hard&quot; transition from solid to molten at one particular temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The glass transition temperature, at 105&amp;nbsp;°C, is significantly lower than the 200&amp;nbsp;°C &quot;melting point&quot; of ABS you quoted. At 160&amp;nbsp;°C, while ABS would not be molten sufficiently for 3D printing, it definitely becomes flexible and would deform easily.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do not think it would hold its shape very well over the long period of time it has to spend in your vulcanizing machine, under high pressure and well above its glass transition temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The surface of 3D printed objects also usually has a somewhat rough finish. If you wanted to make satisfactory stamps, you would probably need to spend a long time manually finishing the 3D printed master before making a mold from it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-08-09T12:01:35.540" LastActivityDate="2018-08-09T12:01:35.540" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4545" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-08-25T08:20:22.087" Score="4" ViewCount="2807" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use Simplify3D to slice my prints, and I've set it to print everything with 4000 Acceleration and 50 Acceleration for outer perimeters only.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Everything works fine, Marlin changes acceleration settings without issues, but with low accelerations my corners are bigger than they should:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OnOFc.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OnOFc.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The object I'm printing is this one: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2478785&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2478785&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you can see in the model, highlighted parts in the picture should have 90° corners with perfect straight lines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems that Marlin adjusts acceleration just for print speed, without adjusting it too for the extruder, so the extruder extrudes a constant amount of filament, which on slow speeds (corners) results in an overextrusion and on high speeds (lines) results in an underextrusion, causing bad corners and inaccurate prints.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This happens with acceleration between 50 and 300. If I use 1000 as acceleration for perimeters the problem is gone, but I need to use small numbers in order to have clean corners and avoid ghosting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Am I the only one experiencing this? What could be causing the issue?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5317" LastActivityDate="2022-11-27T17:11:15.203" Title="Marlin acceleration issue on corners" Tags="|print-quality|marlin|acceleration|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4546" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4545" CreationDate="2017-08-25T09:43:12.480" Score="4" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems that Marlin adjusts acceleration just for print speed, without adjusting it too for the extruder, so the extruder extrudes a constant amount of filament, which on slow speeds (corners) results in an overextrusion and on high speeds (lines) results in an underextrusion, causing bad corners and inaccurate prints.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is not the case. Marlin accelerates the extruder perfectly in sync with the printhead, and the speed of the extruder is perfectly proportional to the movement speed. However, the extruder itself has a certain amount of &amp;quot;lag&amp;quot;: as you feed in filament, pressure builds up. As you stop feeding filament (or slow down), the built up pressure causes the extrusion to continue for a while. Thus, even with &amp;quot;correct&amp;quot; control of the extruder, you don't necessarily get the desired amount of extrusion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Marlin has a feature, that you can enable in the advanced configuration file, called &amp;quot;extruder advance&amp;quot; or &amp;quot;linear advance&amp;quot;. It looks at the acceleration/deceleration of the extruder, and advances the extruder a few extra steps when the speed increases, and backs it off again as the speed decreases. You will need to tune this feature to get rid of the overextrusion at the corners.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastEditorUserId="35942" LastEditDate="2022-11-27T17:11:15.203" LastActivityDate="2022-11-27T17:11:15.203" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4547" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4530" CreationDate="2017-08-25T13:49:49.617" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Looking at the infill pattern visible through the tears in the top layer, it looks as if you have unreliable extrusion on the infill layers also.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The solid fill layer is lifted and torn, so it is unlikely that one or two more layers of solid fill will make the result better.  In my experience, bumps lead to taller bumps and print failure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These diagnostic steps have helped me:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Print a 3 layer solid fill version, the top surface should be smooth and free of bumps;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Print a single layer version, it should be smooth, well attached to the print bed, of even thickness, and a good surface for the next layer.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given your results, I am suspicious that you may have one of these problems, which I've listed in the order of likelihood:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Partially blocked nozzle&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Excessive drag from the filament supply, such as a spool with crossed filament which jams itself, preventing unwrapping;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Extruder feed roller slipping (perhaps full of dust), often a side effect of 1 and 2;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;G-code error dropping the temperature;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Bad heater or thermistor, perhaps intermittent short of the thermistor, causing under heating even though the &quot;average&quot; indicated temperature is correct.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Printing gliders is a cool application. It shows off the weight advantage extrusion 3-D printing can deliver.  Nice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2082" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-06-06T23:05:44.850" LastActivityDate="2018-06-06T23:05:44.850" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4548" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4533" CreationDate="2017-08-25T15:14:43.717" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is more than one question here.  Which touches three topics:  the choice of appropriate 3D printing technique, the choice of materials, and control of any hazardous, noxious, or annoying out-gassing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is important to understand the limits of the 3D printing process you will choose.  Each process has its own limits on repeatability and resolution of small features, such as gear teeth.  A 10 pitch (teeth-per-inch) gear could print acceptably well with a low-cost printer, but the size of a 10-tooth gear would be 1/2&quot; diameter.  This could be a small part, or a huge part, depending on the use.  To print an 1/8&quot; diameter 10-tooth gear would require a 100 pitch gear likely would not, and would call for an optical process (laser sintering (SLS) or photo-polymerization (like the FormLabs Form 2)) or a dot-jetting process (such as the StrataSys Objet Connex machines). These are not in the budget you've suggested, but are available through service bureaus.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Answers here &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/3392/how-can-i-print-gears-using-very-high-resolution-material-like-nylon&quot;&gt;another community question&lt;/a&gt; give some hints for using a plastic-extrusion machine, and information about SLS.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Each process has different environmental requirements, and impacts, but first should be to understand the requirements of the parts, based on those choose a process and material, and then mitigate the environmental factors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2082" LastActivityDate="2017-08-25T15:14:43.717" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4549" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4527" CreationDate="2017-08-25T21:26:09.190" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;With a well-insulated and well distributed (or perhaps well-mixed is a better term - even heating) enclosure you should have a veritable heated bed by dint of heating the enclosure (with the bed in it), unless the bed needs to be hotter than the enclosure. I think that would be  bit more elaborate than &quot;a couple of heat guns&quot; and involve several fans to distribute and mix air continuously.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But - heated enclosures are not a freebie - everything inside the heated enclosure needs to be happy running at the sort of temperatures the enclosure is running at, and that can be hard on some electronic parts, shortening their lifetimes at least. Likewise, your calibration needs to be done on the hot enclosure - mechanical parts (particularly on a large scale printer) will change size due to the temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Insulation will both reduce your running cost (the more heat you keep, the less you have to add) and help keep the temperatures even, by slowing the cooling at the edges of the enclosure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6853" LastActivityDate="2017-08-25T21:26:09.190" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4551" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-08-26T07:41:27.943" Score="2" ViewCount="1638" Body="&lt;p&gt;My printer stopped printing during a few prints, and i found that the extruder had stopped heating, and the motors had stopped running. I checked the code, and nothing was wrong. My 5A fuse though, was extremely hot. I wanted to verify whether it was my fuse that had turned bad or there was some kind of short in my circuitry. &#xA;With the power switched on, none of my appliances drew any current. However, the RAMPS board drew about 0.16 amps. &#xA;Is that normal? &#xA;If that is normal, does it mean that my fuse needs replacement? Because none of my loads seemed to draw unnecessary current.&#xA;Thanks in advance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8231" LastActivityDate="2017-10-25T03:14:22.983" Title="Is my 5A polyfuse on my RAMPS board bad?" Tags="|ramps-1.4|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4552" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4932" CreationDate="2017-08-26T13:50:56.717" Score="2" ViewCount="1330" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been happily printing with my Original Prusa i3 MK2S for a few weeks now. I have been thinking about replacing the PINDA probe with a BLTouch tactile sensor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I do so, how will I be able to do the XYZ calibration? I believe that the tactile sensor would only be able to do Z calibration. If I need to redo the XYZ calibration in the future for some reason, is it possible to do manually? Or would I need to remount an extruder with a PINDA probe temporarily?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8234" LastActivityDate="2017-11-10T22:22:14.443" Title="XYZ calibration without PINDA probe" Tags="|prusa-i3|calibration|z-probe|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4553" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4581" CreationDate="2017-08-26T14:39:26.787" Score="2" ViewCount="1452" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am thinking about rewiring the extruder heater cartridge. What is the connector on the Rambo Mini? I'm thinking about putting a similar connector close to the extruder to make replacement easy. I tried looking through &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/ultimachine/Mini-Rambo/blob/1.3a/board/Project%20Outputs%20for%20Mini-Rambo/Mini-Rambo.PDF&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;the schematic&lt;/a&gt; but could find the part number for the connector (I believe on page 4?).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wfQmh.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wfQmh.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8234" LastEditorUserId="8234" LastEditDate="2017-08-27T17:43:41.400" LastActivityDate="2017-09-03T16:10:28.553" Title="Heater cartridge connector for Original Prusa i3 MK2S" Tags="|prusa-i3|electronics|prusa-i3-rework|wire-type|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4554" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-08-27T07:38:36.850" Score="6" ViewCount="2595" Body="&lt;p&gt;I made a tea bowl, but it leaked when making it in PLA...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are the key points to keep in mind when designing and printing an object that is intended to hold water using an FDM printer? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6778" LastEditorUserId="22" LastEditDate="2021-01-22T05:42:54.590" LastActivityDate="2021-01-22T05:42:54.590" Title="How to make an object hold water" Tags="|3d-design|fdm|water-resistance|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4556" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4635" CreationDate="2017-08-27T10:16:41.047" Score="1" ViewCount="2000" Body="&lt;p&gt;can anyone explain in the simplest terms please what is the difference between a point cloud and a voxel mesh?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5874" LastActivityDate="2017-09-18T03:45:17.200" Title="Layman term explanation of the difference between voxel and point cloud" Tags="|file-formats|scanning|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4559" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4554" CreationDate="2017-08-27T17:57:31.163" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;When designing the object, you should make sure your object is completely enclosed (obviously). When printing, try increasing the print temperature so that the layers stick to each other well. The most important thing is the print temperature, because if the layers don't adhere to each other well, you will get a leak. The wall thickness of the object can be thin, as long as it isn't so thin that it has too little strength to hold anything. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some tips:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Printing in vase mode can save loads of time, otherwise the printer wastes time doing each layer separately. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your nozzle should be 0.4&amp;nbsp;mm and up, otherwise the print will take forever.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6938" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-07-14T18:56:24.343" LastActivityDate="2018-07-14T18:56:24.343" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4560" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-08-28T05:48:10.143" Score="1" ViewCount="180" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've google searched many forums, blogs, and articles about 3D printer settings. There is a lot of guess work. Most of the materials are of amateur technical quality lacking the keen and systematic insight of an expert. Usually books are high in quality and written by experts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have built a 3D printer and would like to maximize my print quality. Are there any good books that have an in-dept analysis of printer settings?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8246" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2019-09-05T14:13:29.580" LastActivityDate="2019-09-05T14:13:29.580" Title="What is a good book to read about 3D printer settings?" Tags="|print-quality|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2019-09-05T14:12:41.720" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4562" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-08-28T22:15:47.773" Score="5" ViewCount="5364" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was printing with my Anet A8 and it pulled the filament spool off of the shelf I have the printer on and forced the filament out of the extruder. I took apart the extruder and removed the debris that was left inside, re-leveled the bed and tried to start another print. When the extruder tries to feed the filament it makes a clicking sound and won't extrude. How do I fix this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8252" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-07-08T11:55:51.877" LastActivityDate="2018-07-08T11:55:51.877" Title="Anet A8 extruder is clicking and not extruding" Tags="|filament|anet-a8|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4563" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4562" CreationDate="2017-08-28T22:44:15.033" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a number of unanswered questions which may serve as a guideline to narrow down a solution. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Instead of attempting a new print, consider to remove the filament again. Shine a light from below and look into the barrel of the extruder to determine if you can see light. If this is mechanically impractical, move to next option.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Manually feed the filament into the extruder. Use the panel to advance the filament rather than creating a print. Does the filament feed properly?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If yes, the problem is not in the extruder system, nor the heat block or hot end. You said you re-leveled the bed. Double check that the nozzle is not being blocked by the bed, preventing filament from extruding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the filament does not feed properly, you may not have completely cleared the heat break, hot end, or nozzle. If you can get or have nylon filament in the correct size, perform a &lt;a href=&quot;http://bukobot.com/nozzle-cleaning&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;nylon cleaning operation&lt;/a&gt;. This involves removing the existing filament, raising the nozzle temperature to 240°C while pushing nylon through. You have to be able to manually force the filament through until you see only clean nylon from the nozzle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have had to push nylon in at the correct temperature, then pull it back out without any extrusion due to the depth of the blockage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After you've pushed as much as you can to get clean nylon (or none), cool the hot end to descend below 140°C. After a moment or two, set the temperature to 140°C and forcibly remove the filament from the upper portion of your assembly. It may require pliers and substantial force to get this out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Repeat the heating, extrusion (or attempts), removal until you get clean nylon from the nozzle and clean nylon at the tip of the removed filament.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Only just today, I had to clear my nozzle using this method, but I was unable to get a reasonable extrusion of clean nylon. I have a 0.4 mm nozzle drill and applied that to the tip of the nozzle, carefully.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found a burned on segment by this additional step and succeeding nylon cleanings went well and my nozzle is printing cleanly again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't have nylon, you can perform similar cleanings (called cold pulls) with ABS or PLA.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastActivityDate="2017-08-28T22:44:15.033" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4565" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="475" CreationDate="2017-08-29T19:52:54.660" Score="-3" Body="&lt;p&gt;My Y axis runs on a channel and I believe there was some grit or metal flakes in the channel left over from manufacturing. The wheels in the channel got stuck on the debris and caused the belt to slip. It made a horrible grinding noise when this happened.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I blew out the channel with pressurized air and tested all the wheels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'll update if necessary as I test my fix with longer (taller) prints.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Update&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Actually, the print had messed up g-code. The gcode file was corrupted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8254" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2019-03-23T11:45:43.323" LastActivityDate="2019-03-23T11:45:43.323" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4566" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4508" CreationDate="2017-08-30T07:12:57.483" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;One thing that seemed to help is making sure the heated bed was 100C. I was able to do this on my Prusa by turning off the front fan (for the whole print). If I have both the fan on and the heated bed at 100C I get the &quot;Heatbed Thermal Runaway&quot; error.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This produced a print that was better but still a bit warped.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8150" LastActivityDate="2017-08-30T07:12:57.483" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4568" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-08-30T12:03:14.703" Score="20" ViewCount="21436" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a generic printer with no support documentation. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do I determine what firmware is in use so that I can research how to make the print run?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8265" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-07-18T01:04:49.720" LastActivityDate="2021-01-29T09:59:39.970" Title="How may I identify the firmware in use on my 3D printer?" Tags="|firmware|knowledgebase|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4569" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4568" CreationDate="2017-08-30T12:07:32.253" Score="19" Body="&lt;p&gt;Send &lt;code&gt;M115&lt;/code&gt; to the printer. This command is &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Request the Firmware Version and Capabilities of the current microcontroller.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Response example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;ok PROTOCOL_VERSION:0.1 FIRMWARE_NAME:FiveD FIRMWARE_URL:http%3A//reprap.org MACHINE_TYPE:Mendel EXTRUDER_COUNT:1&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For more info see here, &lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#M115:_Get_Firmware_Version_and_Capabilities&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;RepRapWiki- G-code - M115: Get Firmware Version and Capabilities&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Of course, this isn't guaranteed to tell the truth, just whatever your generic clone firmware had in its source code.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8203" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-11-20T15:08:17.150" LastActivityDate="2018-11-20T15:08:17.150" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4570" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-08-30T16:50:38.557" Score="2" ViewCount="9382" Body="&lt;p&gt;I installed OctoPrint on my nettop (Foxconn NT-330) to control custom-built Delta printer. I also have generic USB endoscope-type camera attached to the nettop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basic setup went well, printer is visible and controllable by OctoPrint server.&#xA;USB camera is visible via usb-list and mplayer can output live video.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem is that on the OctoPrint Webcam configuration tab it requires &quot;Stream URL&quot; which I don't know where to get from.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3839" LastEditorUserId="3839" LastEditDate="2017-09-01T07:12:43.873" LastActivityDate="2017-10-12T12:17:18.640" Title="How to set up USB camera for Octoprint on Debian system" Tags="|octoprint|usb|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4571" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-08-31T07:14:02.013" Score="0" ViewCount="97" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am trying to modify the pivot of a STL file. Correct me at this point if this isn't even possible. So I load my obj in 3ds Max, center the pivot and center the object via the pivot in the world to 0 0 0. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then I export my one selected centered object as a STL. After that I import the same stl again and the pivot is not centered. But the pivot isn't located at the original reset-point, it is slightly offset from the center. It looks like the centre of gravity. My object is a rim. How can I center the pivot in the STL?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6843" LastActivityDate="2017-08-31T07:14:02.013" Title="3ds Max STL Export Resets Pivot" Tags="|3d-models|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4572" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4227" CreationDate="2017-08-31T10:59:18.927" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd suggest you change the Flow (%).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is usually at 100%, but can be adjusted.&#xA;I'd suggest printing at 80%, and adjusting from there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Layer height, printing speed or other configurations always change the Extrusion Rate with it, because for example higher layers always require more material extruded at the same printing speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How it is done with your specific software, I cannot tell.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4285" LastActivityDate="2017-08-31T10:59:18.927" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4573" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1103" CreationDate="2017-08-31T11:58:18.540" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've had hit and miss success, but nothing I would consider great. I was using Hatchbox ABS with the extruder at 230&amp;nbsp;°C and the bed at 65&amp;nbsp;°C and a homemade enclosure. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One thing that did help was making sure the HVAC vents near the printer were closed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6850" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-07-29T00:04:55.970" LastActivityDate="2018-07-29T00:04:55.970" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4574" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4227" CreationDate="2017-08-31T19:08:39.740" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well, for a 0.6 wall thickness using a 0.6 nozzle you should have one line for the whole wall. But I´m seeing in your prints walls of 0.1 and 0.4 as infill, Why?&#xA;I´m using simplify3D and I can see the results about walls and infill prior to send to the printer. On this kind of parts avoid infill and give priority to walls.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the main problem with your gcode is that wall thickness, is too much difference between the filament extrusion 0.6 vs 0.1 this is 16.6% of the printing flow, so you need to set print flow to 16.6% or 20%, not 80%. &#xA;You must need to use retraction to avoid blobs and set a lower temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I saw this video to control Coast issues, but is explained how to set settings on Simplify3D; I hope you can visualize your issues before printing.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WWpdGY0V-gM&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WWpdGY0V-gM&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4454" LastActivityDate="2017-08-31T19:08:39.740" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4575" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4579" CreationDate="2017-08-31T23:17:18.843" Score="5" ViewCount="6386" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm getting this printing where it's not laying the plastic down very well. What could be causing this? I've printed with these settings before, and it turned out just fine. If you need any other info to properly diagnose this, let me know.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm using a Robo3D R1+&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cT7dV.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Bad Print[1]&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5579" LastActivityDate="2019-05-31T01:49:47.320" Title="What could be causing this spotty extrusion?" Tags="|print-quality|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4576" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-09-01T05:28:20.743" Score="4" ViewCount="639" Body="&lt;p&gt;We manufacture artificial corals for aquarium decorations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We are trying to use 3D scanning and printing to duplicate live corals. Please see attached photos, left is 3D printed model, right is coral molded using resin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem is lacking detail, the real corals have pores (tiny holes).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can anybody please help to add pores to the 3D printed corals? Maybe using Blender 3D software?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6o2mq.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;3D printed coral is lacking pores (tiny holes)&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6o2mq.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;3D printed coral (left) vs resin molded coral (right)&quot; title=&quot;3D printed coral is lacking pores (tiny holes)&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RxHVE.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;3D printed coral (left) vs resin molded coral (right)&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RxHVE.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;3D printed coral is lacking pores (tiny holes)&quot; title=&quot;3D printed coral (left) vs resin molded coral (right)&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8281" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2020-07-13T11:26:24.877" LastActivityDate="2020-07-13T11:26:24.877" Title="Help! 3D Printing Corals for Aquarium Decorations" Tags="|print-quality|3d-models|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4577" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4576" CreationDate="2017-09-01T06:41:51.157" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;First thing to check it's, What printer are you using? is FDM or SLA/SLS? Technology used is the great bottleneck to achieve the results that you want to. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, going cheap in 3D printing it's a way to get bad results. A good setup it's really important to get a great XY and Z resolution. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;FDM it's not able to achieve the same resolution as SLS/SLA has, but it's cheaper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you using FDM try reducing wall speed, that will increase the detail level. Using a smaller nozzle and lower layer settings will increase it as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: Also, you need to check in the 3D model how the model is. If the details that you're looking for are not there, there is nothing else to do but start doing it by hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8203" LastActivityDate="2017-09-01T06:41:51.157" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4578" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4527" CreationDate="2017-09-01T14:45:31.880" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I tend to agree with Davo, that you might want &lt;em&gt;both&lt;/em&gt;. But I'd probably try the enclosure first. My printer is about 1200 by 400. I looked at options, and found some difficult trade-offs:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, the big heatbed approach: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;as you know, getting a single heatbed that big will be expensive (and if it ever breaks or fails, you have to replace it all).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;a big heatbed also draws far more power than a RAMPS board can switch, so you'll have to use the on-board control to control a power relay (solid state or mechanical). &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;a big heatbed will also waste a great deal of power when you're doing small things.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second, the heated enclosure approach:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;more costly to heat up at the beginning, but if insulated it may be cheaper for long prints (with a bed that large, your prints might take really long, too) because it can retain the heat better.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;if you keep the air circulating inside, you'll get much more uniform heat, rather than hot first layers and cooler higher layers.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;consider the effect of the heat on all the other components: motors, electronics, pre-heating the fibers, thinning any lubricants,....&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;you could save some heating cost and time by providing a way to shrink the space to be heated: perhaps just a partition you can insert when doing smaller prints. It wouldn't have to be nearly airtight to make a big difference.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A third option is several small heatbeds:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;this lets you turn on just the ones you need for any given print&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;still expensive, but cheaper than one big one, especially when any of them fails.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;there will be uneven heat at the seams, but if you place the boards tight together I doubt it's enough to matter. You could also carefully trim the boards' edges to get the spacing closer to uniform.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;temperature regulation will be tricky. If you want to support a temperature sensor for each board, you'll have to start hacking at the control software, because (as far as I can tell) there's no provision for multiple heaters. Probably easier to create a completely separate unit with a big power supply, and a simple thermostat for each of the beds, that you just set manually before starting a print.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Overall, I think the heated enclosure may be best. I like the hair dryer idea or heat gun idea, of course you'll need a little extra circuitry to switch it, but you can use the usual software for temperature regulation by installing thermistor or thermocouple in the case (just be careful about circulating the air well enough to avoid &quot;hot spots&quot;). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may want to add an extra cutoff to protect against runaway heating -- I had that happen once when a thermistor literally fell out of the mounting hole in the hotend. Something like &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.grainger.com/product/SUPCO-Thermostat-407L11&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.grainger.com/product/SUPCO-Thermostat-407L11&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let us know how it turns out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastActivityDate="2017-09-01T14:45:31.880" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4579" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4575" CreationDate="2017-09-02T08:36:11.387" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I´ve seen this in my Prusa due two parameters that may vary your results depending on climate if your printer has not a temperature chamber or having a mechanical issue too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lack of extrusion is due a cold filament which it can't reach the melting temperature due a fast extrusion feed; I mean in normal conditions we can print @70&amp;nbsp;mm/s with 195&amp;nbsp;°C but on wet or colder days is not possible so I need to slow down the speed (feed rate) with 10&amp;nbsp;% less than normal to get @60&amp;nbsp;mm/s or less until get a good flow with out modifying the G-code. If I try to print faster on normal conditions I will get the same lack of material due 195&amp;nbsp;°C is a low temperature (this is an example).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I set the temperature 200&amp;nbsp;°C or 210&amp;nbsp;°C I will get a better flow and also print faster than @80&amp;nbsp;mm/s (not affected too much on climate on 100&amp;nbsp;% feed rate).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For first layer I´m using an speed of 40&amp;nbsp;mm/s to allow a good adhesion and Z height 90&amp;nbsp;% of layer height (0.22 typically or 0.18).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mechanical side: The extruder is not feeding all the filament due a missing pression on the traction gear (filament slip).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4454" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2019-05-31T01:49:47.320" LastActivityDate="2019-05-31T01:49:47.320" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4581" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4553" CreationDate="2017-09-03T16:10:28.553" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is referred to as a Terminal Block Connector.   More specifically this is a 2-position pluggable terminal block connector commonly manufactured by Phoenix Contact and others.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.newark.com/phoenix-contact/1757019/terminal-block-pluggable-2-position/dp/71C4152&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Newark.com Pluggable Terminal Block, 5.08 mm, 2 Positions, 24 AWG, 12 AWG, 2.5 mm², Screw&quot;&gt;Newark.com Sale Page: Pluggable Terminal Block, 5.08 mm, 2 Positions, 24 AWG, 12 AWG, 2.5 mm², Screw &lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://images.monoprice.com/productlargeimages/121313.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Large Picture&quot;&gt;Larger Picture: 2-Position Terminal Block Connectors&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8297" LastActivityDate="2017-09-03T16:10:28.553" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4583" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4432" CreationDate="2017-09-04T06:14:00.573" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Daylight resin choice is extremely limited. And would not get much better at-least in short term. Majority of new LCD based 3D printers are using UV LED.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Checkout Wanhao D7, Phrozen3d and other newly released 3D printers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I strongly advice you to checkout Ionel Ciobanuc progress on his printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;He starts by making &lt;a href=&quot;https://hackaday.com/2016/11/18/3d-printering-smartphone-resin-printers-actually-work/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;LCD 3D Printer&quot;&gt;the first LCD based 3D printer&lt;/a&gt; actually works! to modify his printer to make it another &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gt1ysqoTTus&amp;amp;t=21s&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;UV LCD 3D Printer&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the progress it is very clear why everyone adding UV LED to their LCD 3D printers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5007" LastActivityDate="2017-09-04T06:14:00.573" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4584" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-09-05T05:39:28.723" Score="4" ViewCount="833" Body="&lt;p&gt;I built my &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ebay.com/itm/Anet-A8-DIY-3D-Printer-Upgrade-High-Precision-Reprap-Prusa-i3-ABS-Filament/262926865819?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&amp;amp;_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2648&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;3d printer from a kit&lt;/a&gt; a few weeks ago, and initially, it was working fine. However, when I took it with me to college, something must have went awry. The first layer comes out fine, but afterwards, the infill breaks apart. It extrudes the entire time, but there are gaps in it that make prints porous, unisitely, and brittle. The printer is a prussa i3 knockoff. I have included a gallery of a recent print attempt of mine. I hope you guys can help me diagnose the problem.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Gallery: &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xRiJT.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xRiJT.jpg&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8314" LastEditorUserId="8314" LastEditDate="2017-09-05T05:55:11.553" LastActivityDate="2017-09-05T09:41:52.370" Title="prusa i3 not extruding enough plastic" Tags="|filament|prusa-i3|extruder|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4585" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4584" CreationDate="2017-09-05T09:41:52.370" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;For your troubleshooting process, I would suggest to use a simple model, perhaps a small cylinder of 20-25 mm diameter, 5-6 mm height. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You've not indicated what material you are using, nor the extruder/nozzle temperatures, but the print appears to be suffering from low temperature problems. You would also include the slicer software name although I don't believe this matters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The initial layer will print reasonably well, if your slicer performs a reduced speed layer one. The slower filament movement through the nozzle allows it time to heat up for an acceptable layer, while the faster later layers will prevent enough heat to be imparted to the filament.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Increase your temperature at least 10°C for the initial test, as your part is quite a bit below temperature, in my opinion. If the first test is not acceptable, increase by 5°C for each succeeding test.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keep in mind that individual brands will have different optimum temperatures and within a specific brand, different colors will require temperature adjustment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &quot;initially working fine&quot; reference does not include information regarding filament change, color change or other useful information such as print speed, layer thickness, etc., but I'm aiming for a temperature adjustment as the most likely answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastActivityDate="2017-09-05T09:41:52.370" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4588" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4527" CreationDate="2017-09-05T23:22:01.703" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If it is yours first DIY 3D printer try building smaller version first with just one silicone heat pad. 400x400 mm is good enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From my experience:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I used 500 W silicon heater with SSR (AC mains) and it heats as fast as hotend (on DC 12 V).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I also recommend tooling plate (CNC machined Aluminum plate), it is better for heat transmission (Al) and it is more flat (machined to +-50 µm).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You might consider thermal insulation under the silicone heater and also some foil on build plate itself - to minimize thermal losses. Cork might be useful for bottom. For top I use blue foil (in which it was originally wrapped).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Enclosure I think it is also necessary, combined with heater, but then you must also have tubes for cooling of printed part, motors, fridge on hot end, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Word of caution:&#xA;You must realize that you will be probably using 1.0mm nozzle or even more, since on 1200x1200 mm you will just wait for weeks for part to complete.&#xA;For reference: I print on 340 mm diameter (delta) with 0.3 mm nozzle and works just fine. But if I use just 0.1 mm instead of 0.2 mm layers it takes more time, but at the end it looks fantastic. So in your case even layer height must be big to reduce printing time. So you can increase speed, but then there could emerge some artifacts on printed object and also consider heater on hot end, which might be lagging behind.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a lot of problems when you go this big and all are not even closely to be considered solved, but if you have time..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8322" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2023-03-10T20:14:39.703" LastActivityDate="2023-03-10T20:14:39.703" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4589" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4576" CreationDate="2017-09-06T07:14:45.753" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Perhaps with the scanned data you could import it into some sort of 3D modeling application such as Blender and add the pores either manually or with a modifier. See &lt;a href=&quot;https://docs.blender.org/manual/ko/dev/modeling/modifiers/index.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Blender - modifiers&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8327" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-08-09T12:11:17.387" LastActivityDate="2018-08-09T12:11:17.387" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4590" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4591" CreationDate="2017-09-06T08:25:23.983" Score="4" ViewCount="4014" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am having some problems with bed adhesion and curling of the edges. Also my printer causes a lot of stringing when creating the first layer. This can cause the print to let go of the bed and then it just drags around with the nozzle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a Anet A8 and I tried multiple different amounts of force pressing down on the paper. However, what is the desired amount of force pushing down on the paper? Is it supposed to move freely, or is it supposed to be quite hard to move around under the nozzle?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm using basic filament from Gearbest: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.gearbest.com/3d-printer-supplies/pp_367906.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Gearbest Filament&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AbVDV.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Perfect Nozzle Level&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AbVDV.png&quot; alt=&quot;Perfect Nozzle Level&quot; title=&quot;Perfect Nozzle Level&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8283" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2022-09-29T18:40:42.280" LastActivityDate="2022-09-29T18:40:42.280" Title="Correct amount of force on piece of paper when leveling bed" Tags="|print-quality|heated-bed|extrusion|adhesion|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4591" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4590" CreationDate="2017-09-06T10:27:31.663" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Actual task in your case is to find correct nozzle height for the first layer, so the force for pulling out the paper is not important. It just has to be the same every time you make calibration. Because of the different force you apply, different paper thickness and other factors, found position can only be treated as 'relative'.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To complete the calibration you will have to make several test prints with different initial heights, starting from the lowest, adding 0.1-0.2mm (depending on the nozzle diameter) before you find the right value.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please note that 1) initial layer height is not the only factor, affecting adhesion 2) some slicer programs may add not the same amount of height that you specify&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3839" LastEditorUserId="3839" LastEditDate="2017-09-06T13:02:22.313" LastActivityDate="2017-09-06T13:02:22.313" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4592" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-09-07T02:23:21.110" Score="7" ViewCount="291" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am interesting in connecting my RepRap printer to ideaMaker using the same Wi-Fi protocol they use for their Raise3D printers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ri9T0.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Raise3D Wi-Fi protocol&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ri9T0.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Raise3D Wi-Fi protocol&quot; title=&quot;Raise3D Wi-Fi protocol&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am sure I could emulate it using a Raspberry Pi if I knew the format of the protocol (I suspect it is pretty simple).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is the protocol documented anywhere?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is there open source for something that uses the protocol?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Has anyone that has a Raise3D printer looked at the packets it uses?  I suspect the protocol is just G-code in a wrapper.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6417" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-06-29T07:44:44.243" LastActivityDate="2018-12-12T23:30:16.473" Title="Raise3D Wi-Fi Protocol" Tags="|wi-fi|protocol|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="12" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4593" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4599" CreationDate="2017-09-07T07:21:49.740" Score="4" ViewCount="1004" Body="&lt;p&gt;My printer is kossel (delta 3d printer).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a probe far away from the nozzle (offset -x45 y17),every time I run G29, the result is unacceptable, the z distance between points is over 0.5mm, it's not because of the probe's accuracy, I test repeatedly the result is the same.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I cost much time level the bed, finally I realize maybe it's because not only my bed, but also my z max endstops are not horizontal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;how to level the z endstops? (now I think both bed and z endstops are not horizontal)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;is my analyzation correct? any other possible?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8333" LastActivityDate="2022-06-05T00:11:27.423" Title="how to level kossel's endstops?" Tags="|kossel|endstop|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4594" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4596" CreationDate="2017-09-07T13:53:14.260" Score="3" ViewCount="164" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am currently looking to buy a 3D printer. I've done some research about which technologies and materials they use. I've seen some models seems good so far but my concern is 'Are they mechanically solid?'. I don't want it to become a scrap after some usage. Since there are a lot of enthusiasts here that use 3D printer regularly, I would like to get use of your experience with 3D printers and their producer brands.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am not buying it for hobby. I'll mostly use it to make cases for circuit boards. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8338" LastActivityDate="2017-09-07T18:21:26.953" Title="What should I consider before buying a 3D printer?" Tags="|print-quality|desktop-printer|hardware|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4596" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4594" CreationDate="2017-09-07T18:21:26.953" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not surprisingly, your question is a difficult one to pin down in a precise manner. I'm going to pull one line from your post as the focus for my answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I would like to get use of your experience with 3D printers and their producer brands&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would suggest that you isolate a few models (or more) that hold your interest. A good example of a popular, quality printer is the Prusa i3 MK2s, although some would consider it to be expensive. It's available in kit form, as well as fully assembled, another topic entirely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Find the forums specific to the printer models you've selected and read as many posts as you can. Look for user postings describing problems and suggested solutions. Look for user postings describing modifications which implies a problem that had to be solved by the user or community before the printer performed satisfactorily.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've assisted in the building of a Prusa i3 MK2s recently and am currently assisting in a home-spun design based on a number of other generic printers. The owner of this model is incorporating as many modifications as he can find. That tells me that this model, although not yet completed, is likely to be a handful to tune and operate to his/my satisfaction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the flip side, everything I've read about the Prusa told me that for the public library for which it was destined, it would be the lowest level of trouble for any model I researched. I was asked to make a recommendation and performed the suggested research via all the forums I could find.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The above sounds like a direct recommendation, and it could be, but you have not provided too many specifics. The Prusa i3 MK2s (genuine, not clone) would likely print well for your circuit board cases, but there certainly would be other models to do the same job well enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Watch out for print bed size, based on your board size requirements. Heated beds usually mean more money, but greater variety of materials can be used as a result.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you plan to limit your use specifically to circuit board cases, you may not have to be concerned about &quot;expandability&quot; from a feature standpoint. Single extruder models are fine for almost all 3D printing, but it's handy sometimes to have dual nozzle capacity. That's another plus for the Prusa i3 MK2s with an add-on kit, but not a big deal for case building, I think.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Look in the various forums that provide general support for 3D printing (such as this one) for other posts from people who use Brand X 3D printer and have had a problem with, for example, bed adhesion, filament quality, layer shifts, nozzle clogging, just about anything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As with many things, high quality usually means higher price. The library Prusa has been zero problems for me to support on a volunteer basis, hence my recommendation. The makerspace also enjoyed the building process by buying the kit, saving US$200 in the process and learning more about the printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keep an eye out for users who have experienced broken components or typically troublesome components. You would not want to buy a printer model that ships with a junky hot-end assembly if the suggested modification is to upgrade to an E3D V6 to make it work properly. A user who posts about a continuing belt breakage (rare!) could have a user-induced problem or a printer design problem, which means you'll want to cull out some of the information you see.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck, it's a tough decision, to be sure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastActivityDate="2017-09-07T18:21:26.953" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4597" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4600" CreationDate="2017-09-07T19:45:51.667" Score="4" ViewCount="598" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've recently purchased Anet A8. First print went well, but now, the hot end temperature stays at ~230&amp;nbsp;°C. When I touch it, it is still cold. I tried the thermistor, and it correctly changes resistance when I blow on it (from 100&amp;nbsp;k&amp;Omega; to ~70&amp;nbsp;k&amp;Omega;). The voltage in connector is about 300&amp;nbsp;mV. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anybody know what could be wrong?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8343" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-07-16T20:56:42.680" LastActivityDate="2018-07-16T20:56:42.680" Title="Anet A8 - hot end temperature still same" Tags="|printer-building|hotend|anet-a8|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4599" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4593" CreationDate="2017-09-08T20:35:46.063" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;First, you should make sure that printing surface is adjusted correctly: it must be perpendicular to all three delta columns, all other adjustable parts must be checked and adjusted if necessary (depending on actual printer design).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming that upper end-stops can be adjusted as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Home effector with G28 command, then move it close to one column (some versions of Marlin have these commands hardcoded in the menu)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Move Z-axis slowly until the nozzle touches the bed&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Record Z position&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Repeat above steps for two remaining columns&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Then adjust end stops: if you need to raise nozzle (it touches the bed too early), then you move endstop up. If nozzle is too high (it reaches Z0 and still toes not touch the bed), then move endstop down.&#xA;Move endstops very gently because sometimes it it can be a matter of a fraction of millimeter.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;After endstops calibration is done, verify that nozzle is properly calibrated at the center of the bed. Or run G29 if you like.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This procedure should make your endstops properly adjusted relative to the printing bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3839" LastActivityDate="2017-09-08T20:35:46.063" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4600" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4597" CreationDate="2017-09-09T14:34:53.580" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my case, I had a bad resistor on my board. R41 had only 2.2 k&amp;Omega; instead of 4.7. I replaced it and everything works now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8343" LastEditorUserId="8343" LastEditDate="2018-07-16T07:34:43.243" LastActivityDate="2018-07-16T07:34:43.243" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4601" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-09-09T14:38:46.850" Score="4" ViewCount="631" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm searching for a truly clear DLP resin which can polymerize between 400nm and 405nm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found the unpigmented from FunToDo, but it seems to be yellow-clear:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/scoS7.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/scoS7.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to achieve something similar to this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fiC6s.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fiC6s.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any resin out there which costs likely the same (about 50€/liter) which will give results like this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5317" LastActivityDate="2019-07-13T01:01:00.073" Title="What choices do we have on Clear resins for DLP?" Tags="|dlp|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4602" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-09-09T21:28:09.990" Score="2" ViewCount="246" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Maker Farm Prusa i3v 8&quot; i just finished building.  Initially when i first homed it, it ran fine, it even ran a test g code for movement.  The problem is now the Z axis wont move anymore.  First i checked for physical issues such as binding or nuts coming out of traps, everything's OK there.  In Pronterface i can move x &amp;amp; y no problem, but Z will not move, there is no noise from the steppers.  Also unusual is the the Z axis is not on the endstop, its resting on its own in a spot (the hotend is about 2mm off the bed).  I ordered some new end stop switches to try on my Z axis....any thoughts?  I'll update after switch install.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8360" LastActivityDate="2018-03-28T12:13:28.730" Title="Z axis not moving on Prusa i3v 8&quot;" Tags="|prusa-i3|z-axis|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4603" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-09-10T18:14:23.907" Score="6" ViewCount="9947" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've just finished putting my new Anet A6 together. Very nice build all together as everything fits really well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've tried a test print and I noticed something weird: as I try to home ONLY the Z axis to level the bed, the printer automatically moves the nozzle to the X0 Y0 after doing the Z0 first. It doesn't make a difference whether I do it on Octoprint Control or sending the G-Code, so it appears to be a Firmware thing. Why is the Firmware programmed like this is something I'd like to know because it makes the levelling of the bed a nightmare.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's why I wanted to update the Firmware and here is where I got confused... seems that the Firmware used for this boards is something called Skynet3d. I went to their Github page and all they have are 3 section as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A board profile for the Arduino IDE&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What looks like the normal Marlin Firmware&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Skynet3d Firmware, which is empty.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Inside section 2, all I see is a normal group of files corresponding to the Marlin Firmware and some configuration.h examples: they have one for the Anet A8 but not for the Anet A6&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, summing up my question is: &lt;em&gt;Where do I find the A6 Firmware?&lt;/em&gt; I've seen a Youtube video of a guy with the A6 profiles, but I don't know the official source of them...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does somebody know?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8274" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2019-08-31T08:22:07.127" LastActivityDate="2020-01-21T14:18:36.230" Title="Anet A6 Firmware" Tags="|marlin|firmware|anet-a6|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4604" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4560" CreationDate="2017-09-11T00:14:01.567" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There may be books out there, but purchasing a book isn't in your best interest. The reason so much of the information seems to be from amateurs is because every 3d printer is different. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To find the correct settings for your printer you need to calibrate it based on the material, slicer software, hardware, and firmware. Your best option to find a good starting point is to check the manufacturer's website and look for a forum. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even using the same printer and material as someone else has the potential to yield different results. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8369" LastActivityDate="2017-09-11T00:14:01.567" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4605" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-09-11T09:18:46.893" Score="4" ViewCount="754" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yesterday evening i have been trying to print a few upgrades but after coming home after an hour, it is printing in the air because there is to much filament dust inside the extruder. Is this because the filament that is being extruded is getting to soft so the gear grinds parts off? I never had this problem before. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Printer:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anet A8. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8283" LastActivityDate="2017-09-12T07:34:33.557" Title="Extruder keeps jamming because of filament dust!" Tags="|extruder|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4607" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4605" CreationDate="2017-09-11T14:34:50.233" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm highly unconvinced that dust in the gearing is related to your problem. If the material is still being extruded, then &quot;in the air&quot; suggests the base layers may have slipped, or your belts are slipping, either of which will lead to a huge lateral offset, and thus the &quot;printing in air&quot; problem. It's possible but less likely that the extruder feed gear itself is slipping.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can post a picture of one of these situations, that would help a  lot.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I will mention in passing that there are several models for filament guides at thingiverse.com . Putting one of these on your machine will eliminate scraping and the resultant dust.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2191" LastActivityDate="2017-09-11T14:34:50.233" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4608" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4605" CreationDate="2017-09-11T15:55:30.133" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Pictures would help, but I believe that the &quot;dust&quot; is not the cause of your issue, but another symptom. When the filament doesn't advance as fast as the job requires (for whatever reason), the drive mechanism erodes the filament as it attempts to drive it along.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Give us some basics: has your machine worked well with these settings on prints before? What is your material, temperature, print speed and nozzle diameter?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4922" LastActivityDate="2017-09-11T15:55:30.133" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4609" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5169" CreationDate="2017-09-12T01:14:27.913" Score="1" ViewCount="406" Body="&lt;p&gt;I like using &quot;Vase Mode&quot; (or single outline corkscrew printing mode) for quick nonfunctional prints, but it tends to leave gaps in horizontal or near horizontal surfaces. I understand why it does this, but is there a way (beyond printing with no infill*) to get a little more horizontal coverage out of it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*Is the answer to this literally just &quot;Try to print without infill?&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8361" LastActivityDate="2017-12-22T19:17:15.510" Title="Is there a way to get more horizontal coverage out of &quot;Vase Mode&quot; in Simplify3D?" Tags="|print-quality|simplify3d|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4610" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4570" CreationDate="2017-09-12T06:17:26.520" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You need to install a web-cam server on your Nettop. Octorint recommends Yawcam for windows and mjpg-streamer for linux.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;mjpg-streamer: &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/jacksonliam/mjpg-streamer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://github.com/jacksonliam/mjpg-streamer&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;Yawcam: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.yawcam.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.yawcam.com/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;OctoPrint has instructions for installing mjpg-streamer on a raspberry pi. The process should be very similar for a Nettop running Debian so its a good starting place. The instructions are a little ways down the page: &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/foosel/OctoPrint/wiki/Setup-on-a-Raspberry-Pi-running-Raspbian&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://github.com/foosel/OctoPrint/wiki/Setup-on-a-Raspberry-Pi-running-Raspbian&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5363" LastEditorUserId="5363" LastEditDate="2017-09-12T11:48:39.860" LastActivityDate="2017-09-12T11:48:39.860" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4611" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4609" CreationDate="2017-09-12T06:19:20.583" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Vase mode is what it is... As it prints one perimeter there is just one extrusion. Try increasing extrusion rate to see if that will fix the gaps. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;but yes, printing without infill will do the job better than vase mode.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8203" LastActivityDate="2017-09-12T06:19:20.583" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4615" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4616" CreationDate="2017-09-12T16:15:10.160" Score="1" ViewCount="316" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here's the model I'm trying to print, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.shapeways.com/product/DX4FZNAUW/truncated-icosahedron?optionId=8435791&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Truncated Icosahedron&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RfRzY.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Truncated Icosahedron&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RfRzY.png&quot; alt=&quot;Truncated Icosahedron&quot; title=&quot;Truncated Icosahedron&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But it must be 12&amp;quot; in diameter and gray in color &lt;code&gt;rgb = #444444&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also want two of the hexagons to be yellow in color: &lt;code&gt;rgb = #FFFF00&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Similar to &lt;a href=&quot;http://i68.tinypic.com/altceq.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this photo&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JJtoO.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Coloured hexagon&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JJtoO.png&quot; alt=&quot;Coloured hexagon&quot; title=&quot;Coloured hexagon&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How to do this? I don't seem to be able to edit the shape on shapeways.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;UPDATE&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Got it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:308179/#files&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;skeleton bucky ball&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8385" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:29:41.667" LastActivityDate="2018-06-15T00:20:10.180" Title="How can I make this model?" Tags="|3d-models|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4616" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4615" CreationDate="2017-09-12T19:37:59.903" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Without any restrictions to your methodology, your objective is easily accomplished. Thingiverse has a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:608201&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;truncated icosahedron model&lt;/a&gt; available for download and printing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uIwU5.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uIwU5.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;icosahedron&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because the creator has included in the download the OpenSCAD source files, you could edit it to meet your bed limitations. I've downloaded the source, opened it and found the model is a single hexagon, until you change a parameter from 6 to 5 to get a pentagon. I suspect the assembly is up to the builder to figure out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It appears that the default is for a 50 mm diameter sphere. Change the 50 in the code to 300 or so to reach your 12&quot; desired diameter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An alternative to friction welding would be just about any decent epoxy or even a 3D printing pen such as the 3Doodler.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastActivityDate="2017-09-12T19:37:59.903" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4619" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4625" CreationDate="2017-09-13T15:08:12.017" Score="4" ViewCount="1700" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am having issue with my new printer it is not printing circles correctly although I have change firmware and stepping of motor&#xA;advise if anyone know the solution.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7egRT.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7egRT.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8018" LastEditorUserId="8018" LastEditDate="2017-09-14T16:00:27.470" LastActivityDate="2017-09-14T16:00:27.470" Title="3d printer not printing circles correctly" Tags="|print-quality|marlin|desktop-printer|diy-3d-printer|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4620" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-09-13T17:06:45.780" Score="3" ViewCount="429" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are some very cheap SLA printers available, working with galvo scanners and 405 nm lasers to expose a fluid resin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am looking for the galvos which are used in these projects. Does anyone know a manufacturer or supplier for these components?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One good example is the Moai SLA printer. I've seen the galvos and circuit boards in an assembly video on youtube but I can't figure out where these components are from. See: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UTRUMETt9qY#t=133&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UTRUMETt9qY#t=133&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The lable says AT40-314X but I can't find anything useful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8397" LastActivityDate="2017-09-13T17:06:45.780" Title="What kind of galvos are used in Moai SLA printers?" Tags="|sla|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4621" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-09-14T10:01:49.140" Score="4" ViewCount="287" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have just finished assembling a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.3dprintersonlinestore.com/index.php?route=product/product&amp;amp;product_id=260&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;TT I3&lt;/a&gt;, with a large heated bed 220x280, a couple of weeks ago and my first print went well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After a few initial experiments I noticed that the filament will not stick. I have manually leveled the bed over and over again, added a glass sheet over the bed, applied masking-tape and what-not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The filament still will not stick, it will curl up on the nozzle, clog the nozzle and all sorts of other issues...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Everything functions properly but it seems like the extruder is trying to push more then the nozzle is actually putting out. My filament is 1.75&amp;nbsp;mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can anyone help with all this so I can get something printed decently?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am printing with PLA, I started off with 50&amp;nbsp;°C, raised it to 60&amp;nbsp;°C, and last time I tried to print a filament spool holder with 70&amp;nbsp;°C (twice), still if layer is thin it will not stick.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After cleaning the bed with alcohol 70%, you can see the issue in these videos:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/NbHmTL_8Nrs&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Tevo Tarantula i3 filament sticking then coming off&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/3ddibmTWIls&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Tevo Tarantula i3 filament not sticking&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8396" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-10-01T05:47:01.020" LastActivityDate="2018-10-01T06:48:44.513" Title="Tevo Tarantula I3 filament clogging up" Tags="|filament|extruder|heated-bed|tevo-tarantula|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4622" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4619" CreationDate="2017-09-14T10:55:51.303" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This could be because your belts are either old or not tight enough. Try adjust or replacing the belts and try again. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8283" LastActivityDate="2017-09-14T10:55:51.303" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4623" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-09-14T11:07:47.853" Score="4" ViewCount="543" Body="&lt;p&gt;The extruder motor makes these clinking sounds.&#xA;I read about that and I tried to adjust it with its potentiometer,&#xA;I tried reassembling the clamps, reinserted the leading tube in both ends, cutting them in a 90° angle but nothing helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems that if I have a print of 0.1&amp;nbsp;mm layer thickness, the nozzle does not put out enough filament and it gets clogged up in the leading metal tube to the nozzle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the &lt;code&gt;extruder&lt;/code&gt; side it looks like the clogging up gets the motor the sort of &lt;em&gt;skip&lt;/em&gt; the push of the filament.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://pastebin.com/embed_js/LZP3tq2E&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;This&lt;/a&gt; is my G-code.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is going wrong here??&#xA;How can I setup these params to work together smoothly?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8396" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-10-01T05:49:37.280" LastActivityDate="2018-10-01T05:49:37.280" Title="Tevo Tarantula extruder motor clinking sounds" Tags="|extruder|tevo-tarantula|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4624" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-09-14T11:55:32.940" Score="2" ViewCount="720" Body="&lt;p&gt;I decided to try and setup the bed auto level sensor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I downloaded this firmware: &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/JoelLisenby/TEVO-Tarantula-I3-Marlin-Firmware&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;TEVO-Tarantula-I3-Marlin-Firmware&lt;/a&gt; and followed this tutorial, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=93p5ziFiGqs&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;YouTube - Setting Up Auto Bed Leveling (Tevo Tarantula)&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Firmware Config files:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://pastebin.com/g1F2LLgR&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;configuration.h&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://pastebin.com/fM4b6res&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;configuration_adv.h&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A few things happened after that:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The bed will not level&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The Z axis goes up to approx. the middle...&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The printer is in no situation to print&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I probably got something wrong...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The machine goes to the leveling points, but is approximately 10&amp;nbsp;cm above the bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8396" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-09-30T21:36:50.547" LastActivityDate="2018-10-01T05:29:07.533" Title="Tevo Tarantula incorrectly auto leveling of bed" Tags="|calibration|firmware|bed-leveling|tevo-tarantula|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4625" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4619" CreationDate="2017-09-14T12:03:12.240" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Possible causes for the printer not printing correct dimensions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Incorrect number of steps/mm in firmware settings&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Belts are not tight enough&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pulley slips on the shaft&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looking at the picture, I would go for the first case, because distortion looks regular. Try checking microstep settings on your board, and settings in the firmware.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3839" LastActivityDate="2017-09-14T12:03:12.240" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4626" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4623" CreationDate="2017-09-14T19:45:44.907" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd advise against adjusting the driver's potentiometer without also taking a voltage reading and doing the math to find out what current is being driven through the stepper. Having the current too high can damage your driver or stepper. But having the current too low can cause that clicking as the stepper internally skips.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The filament may also be too cold, and is providing too much resistance to being forced out the extrusion nozzle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or the filament may be getting stuck in the area just above the heating element in your hotend. This is called &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.fargo3dprinting.com/how-to/heat-creep/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;heat creep&lt;/a&gt;, and can cause jams. Based on your description it looks like this is happening to your hotend.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or your nozzle may be clogged with dust and contaminants. Check the diameter spec for your hotend and look up an appropriate cleaning method (for ABS you can soak in acetone, for PLA there are tiny drill bits to clear out debris).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or you may be trying to print too fast. Lowering the print speed means plastic is extruded slower and there's less pressure built up in the hotend. I would check on the other options before adjusting print speed, because it can fix the symptoms but may not be the root cause.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1050" LastActivityDate="2017-09-14T19:45:44.907" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4627" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4556" CreationDate="2017-09-14T19:52:02.470" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I believe a point cloud is just a collection of points, while voxels - &quot;3D pixels&quot; - define location and a cube area. They seem to be pretty equivalent mathematically.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1050" LastActivityDate="2017-09-14T19:52:02.470" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4628" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4520" CreationDate="2017-09-14T19:54:10.937" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've had similar experiences switching from PLA to PETG, and haven't gotten it fully figured out yet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From what I know so far, to reduce petg strings:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Increase retraction&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lower temperature&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1050" LastActivityDate="2017-09-14T19:54:10.937" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4630" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-09-15T23:41:01.380" Score="2" ViewCount="113" Body="&lt;p&gt;when I command to start print from SD card; extruder temperature raise slowly and print start but with in 4-5 minutes suddenly Extruder temperature lower automatically.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8417" LastActivityDate="2017-10-16T01:19:36.490" Title="3d Extruder temperature lower automatically (Prusi I3)" Tags="|prusa-i3|extruder|hotend|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4631" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4630" CreationDate="2017-09-16T01:05:22.347" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Please consider to reference your precise model (genuine Prusa i3 or clone?) as well as the slicer software you are using.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should be able to note from the panel information what layer the change appears. For example, if you are printing 0.200 mm layer thickness and the temperature change begins at 10.200 height, you have an important piece of information.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Open your gcode file in a text editor and look for the Z reference in the 10.000 or 10.200 range, along with the temperature gcode command. According to the &lt;a href=&quot;http://reprap.org/wiki/G-code&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;reprap wiki&lt;/a&gt;,, the gcode command to set extruder temperature is M104 followed by Sxxx where xxx = temperature in °C. For example, you should see something like this near the beginning of the gcode&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;M104 S205; set extruder temperature to 205°C (comments mine, some slicers also include comments)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;but if your gcode is faulty, later in the body of the gcode you may see a similar command:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;M104 S000;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;the number after the S could be anything. Consider to examine any M10x codes as there are different results for various codes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you find you have a dropped extruder temperature due to the gcode, double check your slicer settings to see if a second process has been initiated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a dual extruder printer and will usually keep the second extruder cold until just a few layers prior to printing supports at a level above the bed, then turn it on to do the supports, then back off for the rest of the print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastActivityDate="2017-09-16T01:05:22.347" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4632" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4641" CreationDate="2017-09-16T14:40:53.563" Score="3" ViewCount="2736" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been trying to get something decent printed for days but nothing works! I have a Tarantula Tevo i3 &lt;code&gt;MKS Base V1.4&lt;/code&gt; and have done a lot of trial &amp;amp; plenty of error. Still I am puzzled to get good prints.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What is the stock firmware for a single extruder regular/large bed firmware &amp;amp; how to configure a large bed (if needed to be configured)?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Which is the auto bed leveling firmware?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I need help sorting out what's out there. I did not manage to configure a large bed with a single extruder. But did manage to restore firmware with &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Marlin-2.0.x&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;So the &lt;a href=&quot;https://tevo3dprinterstore.com/pages/tevo-tarantula-firmware&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Tevo 3D Printing Store firmware link&lt;/a&gt; directs to a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.dropbox.com/sh/ndykfl1wkw8enpj/AACTlV5qC9dpaJA1PYYLACeha?dl=0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;dropbox&lt;/a&gt; - only dual extruders - both regular &amp;amp; large bed,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There is JimBrown's GitHub &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/JimBrown/MarlinTarantula&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;MarlinTarantula&lt;/a&gt; - Optimized firmware for RepRap 3D printers based on the Arduino platform,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;JoelLisenby's GitHub &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/JoelLisenby/TEVO-Tarantula-I3-Marlin-Firmware&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;TEVO-Tarantula-I3-Marlin-Firmware&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I followed this, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=93p5ziFiGqs&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;YouTube - Setting Up Auto Bed Leveling (Tevo Tarantula)&lt;/a&gt;, for setting up the auto bed leveling sensor but it just got me messed-up even more, see &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/4624/tt-is-bed-auto-leveling&quot;&gt;Tevo Tarantula incorrectly auto leveling of bed&lt;/a&gt;. I'm just now in the process of trying to manually level the bed and I broke the hot end holder plastic plate...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT&lt;/strong&gt;:&#xA;The sensor I'm using is &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.phidgets.com/?tier=3&amp;amp;catid=13&amp;amp;pcid=11&amp;amp;prodid=402&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;SN04-N Inductive Proximity Sensor - 5mm&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8396" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-10-01T06:21:41.343" LastActivityDate="2018-10-01T06:21:41.343" Title="Tevo Tarantula I3 firmware" Tags="|marlin|heated-bed|firmware|tevo-tarantula|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4633" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-09-17T21:31:32.960" Score="1" ViewCount="452" Body="&lt;p&gt;Slicer set up for print asks bed size.  This is easy:  200mm x 200mm&#xA;But what is the origin.&#xA;If I leave it at 0,0 the it tries to start printing at 200mm, off the bed. &#xA;Does the origin establish where the print starts, in centred, or something else. &#xA;Should I set origin as 100,100 or -100,-100 or something else. &#xA;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8265" LastActivityDate="2017-09-17T22:29:26.773" Title="First print origin" Tags="|slic3r|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4634" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4633" CreationDate="2017-09-17T22:29:26.773" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It could be useful to know what model of printer you are using. It would be useful to know what firmware you are using.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The origin is established in the firmware, if you are working with a printer you built yourself or constructed from a kit and had to flash the firmware.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/1465/how-to-set-a-new-homing-position-using-sofware-and-or-slicer-without-changing-ha&quot;&gt;related post to this forum&lt;/a&gt; which covers changing the origin by 10 mm, but the information contained within is useful for your reference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Effectively, you will want to ensure that the settings in the firmware match your specific printer configuration. The information I've been able to collect suggest that your max x and y position be placed in the firmware.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not knowing your printer makes a certain answer more difficult. If your endstops are at the maximum travel limits, the above answer is valid. If your endstops are at the origin, there is something else amiss.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please consider to edit your question to include endstop location and printer model number. Firmware and controller information is also useful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastActivityDate="2017-09-17T22:29:26.773" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4635" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4556" CreationDate="2017-09-18T03:45:17.200" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;A point cloud is often derived by sampling.  Each point represents an observation.  Sometimes, a point cloud is turned into a surface by fitting triangles to the points in the form of an STL file.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A raster is a 2D grid of pixels.  It divides the area of an image into constant-sized little squares.  Each of these squares has a value.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A 3D raster is made of voxels.  It divides 3-space into constant-sized little cubes.  Each of these cubes has a value.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pixels and voxels are rendering techniques.  A point cloud is a sampling technique.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Wikipedia article, &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Voxel&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Voxel&lt;/a&gt;, is helpful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In a real system the pixels may not be square or the voxels not strictly cubic, but in every system I've worked with, they do form a regular tiling of the plane for pixels, and fill 3d space for voxels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2082" LastActivityDate="2017-09-18T03:45:17.200" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4636" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="599" CreationDate="2017-09-18T14:19:18.600" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Realizing this question is somewhat old, I'd like to add an update from the perspective of an owner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've used/tested the Smart Extruder+ on my Replicator+ for about a year now and have had great success!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I jumped from a Replicator Dual (balsa wood version) to the Replicator+, so I don't know first hand what the issues were with the original Smart Extruder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regardless, here are some of my impressions on the machine's Smart Extruder+:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Swapping material is a breeze&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Calibrating the z-offset is much easier with the automatic adjustment (over older machines)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Filament detection has saved me a few times when the filament got kinked or wrapped around the spindle. As well as I'm able to actually fully use a spool of filament now (over older machines)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Temperature control seems to be much more consistent than older machines, but that typically stemmed from &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/339/makerbot-replicator-1-voltage-regulator-fix&quot;&gt;motherboard issues in the past&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;While others may complain about separating extruders based on material type (ie one for PLA, one for Tough PLA, etc.), I find it a great way of ensuring quality. This ensures that there is no &quot;cross-contamination&quot; of materials and the wear on the hardware is a more standard rate. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="98" LastActivityDate="2017-09-18T14:19:18.600" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4637" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4659" CreationDate="2017-09-18T17:57:17.290" Score="9" ViewCount="1662" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have make a little test with 4 dots aligned with A tower, B and C tower. Distance W and S are the same in the stl but not in the print. I have tried diferent values of diagonal root but S always is smaller than W, and all S are equal (more or less 38.20mm) and all W are equal (more or less 40.80). I expect that W and S will be 40mm. How can fix this problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hkUAj.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hkUAj.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is the stl I use: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.dropbox.com/s/2vwjbo387cmk5qa/DeltaCalibration%20v15.stl?dl=0&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.dropbox.com/s/2vwjbo387cmk5qa/DeltaCalibration%20v15.stl?dl=0&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update:&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;I have replaced the steper motor in tower B but same result.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8443" LastEditorUserId="8443" LastEditDate="2017-09-25T09:17:11.713" LastActivityDate="2021-10-28T11:44:29.857" Title="Delta printer distortion" Tags="|print-quality|calibration|delta|repetier|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4638" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4637" CreationDate="2017-09-19T17:53:05.257" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well, you have two main issues:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;1.-&lt;/strong&gt; Your calculation for stepping is a little wrong, for example your firmware indicates 2315.84 when you need 2321.70 (REMEMBER this is an example and is not accurate), So you will see a diference about 2.0mm along your printing. If your printing is bigger more diference you will get.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;2.-&lt;/strong&gt; Misalignment, your printer is not angled correctly to 90° and also Z axe if has the same condition. with this uncalibrated parameter are you going to have pisa towers on every tall part. &#xA;For delta Printers this not apply&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;3.-&lt;/strong&gt; Tension. Your belts are a little weak; avoid weak tension band to eliminate something called backslash, of course this is for screw parts but is the same efect and even bigger. Also you will get an accurate dimension of the parts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4454" LastEditorUserId="4454" LastEditDate="2017-09-19T18:03:05.820" LastActivityDate="2017-09-19T18:03:05.820" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4639" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="215" CreationDate="2017-09-19T18:50:09.917" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use hair spray directly on my glass bed , then just a  little bit of rubbing alcohol on a small piece of paper towel to clean it...that removes all surface materials... I don't use tape any more... Russ&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8454" LastActivityDate="2017-09-19T18:50:09.917" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4641" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4632" CreationDate="2017-09-20T20:01:12.880" Score="1" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Answer for &lt;strong&gt;&quot;2)&quot;&lt;/strong&gt;:&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The default firmware seems to be Repetier. It also includes Bed leveling (see documentation):&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.repetier.com/documentation/repetier-firmware/z-probing/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.repetier.com/documentation/repetier-firmware/z-probing/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Marlin includes the Auto Bed Leveling feature too. You need to enable it by editing the Configuration.h file.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bed size settings are there aswell.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;stylesuxx&quot; made a video on how to get Marlin onto the Tevo:&#xA;&lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/-sQ8p00pG5E?start=0&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&#xA;or you can take a look at their website:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://marlinfw.org/docs/configuration/configuration.html#configuration.h&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://marlinfw.org/docs/configuration/configuration.html#configuration.h&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Autoleveling can be enabeled as well in this file. There is a good video from Thomas Sanladerer on Mesh Bed Leveling:&#xA;&lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/EcGFLwj0pnA?start=0&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want some help with auto bed leveling it would be nice if you can include what kind of sensor you want to use (inductive, capacitive, microswitch...) and what your prefered type of bed leveling is (mesh 3x3, just z-leveling)...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8172" LastActivityDate="2017-09-20T20:01:12.880" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4643" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-09-22T04:43:04.440" Score="3" ViewCount="3310" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am having this problem with my printer. It doesn't print smooth circular objects. The objects are typically &quot;ribbed&quot; or ridged... never smooth. I am not sure how to fix this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have tried fixing it in Meshmixer, I've tried &lt;em&gt;Sli3r&lt;/em&gt; (I normally use &lt;em&gt;Cura&lt;/em&gt; 2.7). I've tried turning down acceleration as low as it will go (500 in my printer's case), tried slowing down the actual print and travel speeds. Short of just replacing the dang thing (not an option at all), I have no idea what to do... I'm at a total loss for words here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My printer is a TronXY P802MA. Auto Level, runs &lt;em&gt;Marlin&lt;/em&gt; firmware. I use Octoprint as my print server. The picture shows the odd texture. It's at the bottom of this particular model. For some reason, within the pictured model, the problem isn't reproduced in the partial spheres.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WKe5A.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Unwanted texture&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WKe5A.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Unwanted texture&quot; title=&quot;Unwanted texture&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8477" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-07-08T14:49:39.750" LastActivityDate="2018-08-10T10:46:44.383" Title="What is causing this &quot;ribbed&quot; texture on my circular prints?" Tags="|print-quality|tronxy-p802|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4644" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4671" CreationDate="2017-09-22T08:38:02.017" Score="4" ViewCount="1090" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an STL-file that Slic3r thinks has errors. They are not visible in the 3D view. I have had them anazlyzed in both Blender and netfabb. Both of these programs say that the model is good. I don't want to leave this to chance. Since I sell STL-files I need the STL-file perfect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any way I can find out what the problem is. I encounter this from time to time. Often I can go back into blender and find the error by analyzing the mesh. But not always. It would be very helpful to have slic3r tell me what it repaired.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5395" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2020-07-13T10:40:58.373" LastActivityDate="2020-07-13T10:40:58.373" Title="How can I see what errors Slic3r have repaird?" Tags="|3d-models|slic3r|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4646" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-09-22T12:22:40.770" Score="7" ViewCount="1177" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm building my own DLP printer with UV LEDs. I use a 20A relay to power them on, since they require high power and can't be directly driven by arduino or Raspberry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm planning to use them with NanoDLP on Raspberry + GRBL on Arduino.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it possible to make NanoDLP tell GRBL to power on (send digital 1/+5V) the relay when the print starts and power it off (send digital 0/GND) when the print ends?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other way would be to just install an on/off switch and do it manually,  but I feel this step should be automated somehow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a way to do it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5317" LastActivityDate="2018-10-15T06:27:34.220" Title="Managing LEDs with NanoDLP" Tags="|diy-3d-printer|dlp|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4647" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-09-23T12:05:50.500" Score="11" ViewCount="3467" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm currently trying to remesh and simplify some protein structure models (very large) to reduce the file size of the STLs I need to print from.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The raw file before manipulation is ~4.9GB.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm currently attempting this on my home PC (16GB Ram, AMD FX9590, dual RX480s - so no slouch by any stretch) but I'm currently watching the progress (which isn't fast), and the RAM usage is worryingly close to 16GB now, with about 40% of the calculation still to go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm using MeshLab's Quadratic Edge Collapse Decimation, to drop down by about 60% since there are a lot of redundance internal vertices etc and the print will already be quite difficult even with a small number of faces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If my PC ends up not being able to handle this, does anyone know of any good commandline tools for Unix that I could use on one of my servers to handle remeshing and simplification, where I have considerably more ram and CPU power available.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First post on this SE, so apologies if this belongs somewhere different.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8421" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2018-09-16T12:45:40.360" LastActivityDate="2024-03-14T08:59:16.573" Title="commandline remeshing and simplifying tools" Tags="|print-quality|3d-models|software|slicing|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4649" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4643" CreationDate="2017-09-23T14:45:18.120" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Did you try to use different infill? Denser or less dense?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also try to reduce overlapping infil with outlines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Try to set 2 or 3 outer perimeters / outlines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1211" LastActivityDate="2017-09-23T14:45:18.120" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4651" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-09-23T18:40:41.117" Score="3" ViewCount="1422" Body="&lt;p&gt;Following &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/4641/8396&quot;&gt;Beny's advice&lt;/a&gt;, I've just setup &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/JimBrown/MarlinTarantula&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;JimBrown-MarlinTarantula&lt;/a&gt; firmware.&#xA;However, my &lt;code&gt;X0&lt;/code&gt; &amp;amp; &lt;code&gt;Y0&lt;/code&gt; points are off the bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When trying to &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/JimBrown/MarlinTarantula/wiki/How-to-center-your-prints-(EasyConfig)&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;center my prints&lt;/a&gt; &amp;amp; afterwards sending &lt;code&gt;G1 X100 Y140&lt;/code&gt; to the printer, I am still off center by the margins of the sizes my &lt;code&gt;X0&lt;/code&gt; &amp;amp; &lt;code&gt;Y0&lt;/code&gt; points are divided by 2.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What should I do?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8396" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-10-01T08:42:51.837" LastActivityDate="2018-10-01T08:42:51.837" Title="Tevo Tarantula home offset" Tags="|heated-bed|firmware|tevo-tarantula|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4652" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-09-23T22:06:29.710" Score="4" ViewCount="1474" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking to update my Delta printer's electronics from 8-bit to 32-bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I checked Marlin and found out that they working on a project they call it Re-ARM and as far as I can tell they will support few chip-sets - I can't remember which one, so until when that happens I need to use something else but what? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I need it to be open source but the &lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/wiki/Smoothieboard&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Smoothieboard&lt;/a&gt; (original one) is too expensive. I saw MKS SBASE but they are closed-source. There is also the &lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/wiki/MKS_GEN&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;MKS GEN version of it&lt;/a&gt; but again it uses an ATmega2560. Is there solution for now for my problem until 32-bit Marlin reaches test phase ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8416" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-07-28T18:52:09.197" LastActivityDate="2018-07-28T23:38:07.583" Title="Best 32 bit electronics for delta?" Tags="|electronics|delta|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4655" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-09-24T22:59:12.680" Score="6" ViewCount="10979" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know on which board that can be bought today is possible to run current Marlin x32 ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8416" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-07-28T22:15:36.847" LastActivityDate="2018-07-28T22:39:03.087" Title="On which board can 32 bit Marlin run?" Tags="|marlin|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4656" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3507" CreationDate="2017-09-25T08:08:47.243" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;PLA is non-conductive at room temperature, but when you heat it up over 70 C it is no longer as great an electrical insulator as the part will begin to fail. These temperatures could occur in electrical shorting situations or even increased electrical resistance in a circuit over time. I would hesitate to use PLA in electrical scenarios with a lot of load. As the resistance drops in the PLA (The resistance is still very high) and load begins to run through the PLA you have a recipe for a fire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.1002/eej.21272/full/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.1002/eej.21272/full/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other problem with a printed PLA part is that many times they are permeable to liquids. This means that if you say you get salt on them say from your hands and condensation say from your humid living environment... current cant pass through your plug.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8512" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2020-09-20T20:27:25.730" LastActivityDate="2020-09-20T20:27:25.730" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4657" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3826" CreationDate="2017-09-25T12:22:45.987" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The only advantage of Bowden extruder is a reduced mass of moving parts attached to the effector.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All other differences from direct extruder are to the Bowden's disadvantages. Generally speaking, Bowden-type extruder has much worse control of filament extrusion than direct one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since most of the modern consumer-grade printers suffer from low rigidity, reducing mass seems as a good trade-off to the printers' manufacturers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately, for the Delta printers trading speed for quality may not be so effective. Delta construction is used with the only goal to achieve highest possible speed of printing. As a contrary, Bowden extruder becomes less precise with the speed increase. This makes it unreasonable to increase print speed at some point when printing quality degrades below acceptable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a result, at this moment of time, Delta printers with Bowden extruder is a clear sign of under-performing device.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To answer your question: there is no reason to pay extra for the Delta printer with Bowden extruder, although I doubt that a printer with similar characteristics and a direct extruder would be cheaper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3839" LastActivityDate="2017-09-25T12:22:45.987" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4658" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4225" CreationDate="2017-09-25T18:27:15.957" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;My best guess based on the answers and comments so far is that there is a minor firmware bug and some poorly initialised state. This occurs at start-up, or after a print has finished, but only once (till presumably the idle state is reached again).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See the image below, captured after the power went off during a print. Heated the extruder, and did Z -10, got this. Both x and Y moved, but in about a 10:1 ratio. The length of the track is about 10mm. Interestingly, during this movement, there was no Z movement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2L8d3.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2L8d3.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Movement frozen into print&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4927" LastActivityDate="2017-09-25T18:27:15.957" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4659" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4637" CreationDate="2017-09-26T07:55:28.330" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bet your towers are not standing straight (vertical) or&#xA;your bed is not clearly horizontal&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've recreated your picture with some assumptions (for example that your SW calculates properly and your steppers and motors act well).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Take a look here:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/O4lKx.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/O4lKx.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you deliver your printer dimensions&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;tower height (from the base)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;tower distance from the center&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;bed distance (height) from the base&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can calculate what the inclination angle on all towers is, but, I suppose it's not really important.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The important thing is to set them straight/vertical (perpendicular to the bed).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We can see from the picture that tower A is the most inclined to the center or&#xA;the bed highest point is next to tower A (and I bet one of those or both cause the issue).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As an example, I've made some calculations based on imagined assuptions of the tower height&#xA;here are details:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;    towerH | inclination&#xA;-----------+----------------&#xA;    300 mm | 0.11°&#xA;    400 mm | 0.08°&#xA;    500 mm | 0.06°&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems to be quite small but in fact your differences in dimensions are also small!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The inclination of tower B is bigger as there is bigger difference in dimensions, so maybe the issue is more in bed &amp;quot;horizontality&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It would be good if you would check and measure these parameters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for the explanation why bed the inclination causes dimension distortion:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4jfG1.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4jfG1.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is exaggerated but it's just to show the issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1211" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-10-28T11:44:29.857" LastActivityDate="2021-10-28T11:44:29.857" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4660" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-09-27T03:31:38.793" Score="5" ViewCount="2709" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.alunar.net/m508-self-assembly-3d-printer.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Alunar M508 machine&lt;/a&gt; that I am trying to get new firmware on. The firmware that was loaded on the machine wasn't very good. The x axis was mirrored and the home point was way off. I was looking into Marlin to put on the machine, but don't have any experience on what to edit in the code to make it work for this machine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone have any experience with this machine? Uploading new firmware that works or editing the code to make it work for this machine. I appreciate any help!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a link to &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/camalot/alunar-prusa-i3-marlin-i3-firmware&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;the firmware I am currently using&lt;/a&gt;. I'm on MacOS Sierra 10.12.5 using the 1.6.8 Arduino IDE.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8529" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-10-02T06:12:24.553" LastActivityDate="2018-10-02T06:12:24.553" Title="Alunar m508 Firmware" Tags="|prusa-i3|marlin|firmware|alunar-m508|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4661" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-09-27T06:20:41.193" Score="4" ViewCount="722" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there anything special for printing TPU material e.g extruder or temperature?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's my first time printing TPU material, so if you have any photos, it would be great if you can share them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8018" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-02-01T09:12:56.840" LastActivityDate="2019-02-01T11:49:12.730" Title="How to print TPU material with 3D printer" Tags="|extruder|hotend|material|tpu|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4663" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4661" CreationDate="2017-09-27T11:54:50.480" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Elastomers do much better on direct-drive heads (pulled to the head by the motor) than on Bowden designs (where the material is pushed to the head by a motor). This is because the flexible TPU or TPE can bend in the guide tube, causing lag during advance/retract changes, and sometimes even bind up during delivery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Look for equipment which explicitly states that it is compatible with, and designed for, flexible filaments.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4922" LastEditorUserId="4922" LastEditDate="2017-09-27T12:02:47.727" LastActivityDate="2017-09-27T12:02:47.727" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4664" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4782" CreationDate="2017-09-27T21:50:05.010" Score="5" ViewCount="4167" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have had a 3d printer for a while now, and I have a lot of the quality settings dialed in pretty well, but one thing that constantly bugs me is removing the raft from my finished prints. I am using Repetier and I have set the air gap to 0.2 mm. That led to much better results than the default 0, which were impossible to remove at all, but it is still not great. Are there any settings I should look at changing to get easier to remove rafts? Does the filament affect this? I am printing in Hatchbox PLA at high temps. I have a heated bed, and reducing the temp on that did seem to help. Maybe it keeps the layers on the raft from fusing with the layers on the part? Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1188" LastActivityDate="2017-10-23T05:51:28.237" Title="How should I go about printing easily removable rafts?" Tags="|repetier|post-processing|rafts|repetier-host|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4665" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4664" CreationDate="2017-09-28T14:58:39.817" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;As comments suggest,  a raft is not all that popular.  Consider using a brim/skirt instead.  I've had excellent luck with a 4-mm skirt, printing onto blue painter's tape. (Unless you consider it bad luck when I have a devil of a time getting some parts to release :-) ).   Skirts are trivial to cut free from the object.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In a similar vein, if you run into trouble getting support structures to pop off the object cleanly, try to make them as thin-walled as possible. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2191" LastActivityDate="2017-09-28T14:58:39.817" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4666" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4667" CreationDate="2017-09-28T21:44:19.737" Score="4" ViewCount="873" Body="&lt;p&gt;Apologies, I'm a EE designer and software guy.  We've been CNC'ing prototypes, and my office just bought a very cheap 3D printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm using Cura as recomended, and wanted to print a piece that has features on both sides.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a screenshot of each side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So if you laid one side flat, you see how there is a subtractive portion underneath it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a way to 3D print an object like this, and keep the details on each side?&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/G2T54.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/G2T54.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;UPDATE&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;I copied some Cura settings from guys and basically tipped this thing to a 45 degree.  Here are the results.  Pretty good!  The finish has some zits and pops, but the surface details are quite accurate enough to fit a PCB board in there with confidence.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4jAWN.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4jAWN.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8556" LastEditorUserId="8556" LastEditDate="2017-09-29T14:59:13.883" LastActivityDate="2017-09-29T14:59:13.883" Title="Printed 2 Sided Object?" Tags="|print-quality|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4667" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4666" CreationDate="2017-09-28T21:58:55.447" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I haven't tried printing anything like that, but one trick is to print the piece at an angle of 45°, so as to minimise the number of surfaces that are horizontal (or near horizontal.) You will still need some supports, but far less than if you just plonked it flat on the build plate. My only other recommendation would be to use a slicer that allows you to define custom supports, such as Simplify 3D or CraftWare (but still print the piece at an angle).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might even be able to print it on a raft/brim with no supports. I've seen other 3D'ers pull this off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3953" LastEditorUserId="3953" LastEditDate="2017-09-28T22:22:34.913" LastActivityDate="2017-09-28T22:22:34.913" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4668" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4666" CreationDate="2017-09-28T22:25:06.297" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can print it laying flat on the bed with supports. It will be very laborious to clean up, but it will probably work. supports usually are thin enough to strip away, but they leave marks which you need to cut off to get a clean result.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also buy a printer with dual extruders and then use dissolvable supports. That would probably be easier to clean up and provide a cleaner result.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're using PLA to print, you might get away with turning up the part cooling fan to the maximum level and hope for the best. Overhangs are very much prone to dropping though. I'm not sure if a stock MP Select mini will get the job done. You might want to consider an upgrade to the part cooling fan. You can look for fan duct related upgrades which allow you to mount bigger fans on &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thingiverse.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Thingiverse&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With PETG you can possibly get away with longer overhangs, as it cools quicker. However, PETG is much harder to print well, as it's much more prone to stringing, which can cause issues like artifacts and clogging.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All in all I'd start out with getting a good benchy before you start on engineering projects. This will make sure that you have your printer calibrated to perform for your chosen filament. Every brand and type has their own quirks and differences, so you'll have to fine tune your settings to get the best result.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A CNC-like finish will not be easy to achieve. A CNC type finish will be unachievable without extensive post processing if you're using supports. In any case, getting a good finish requires some practice with finding the right settings for your filament.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Learn how to print and to get your printer dialled in to achieve the required result, which, in the case of it having to be CNC-like, is quite high-end. The fact you're laying down filament means that you'll be able to see lines, even at top quality. Maybe &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; guide will help you get on your way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Getting a $1000 printer mainly inproves reliability of the print. The quality of the print is in the skill of dialling in the right settings in your slicer for a given filament choice, plus recognising the type of supports necessary. This takes practice to achieve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4903" LastEditorUserId="4903" LastEditDate="2017-09-29T09:20:23.900" LastActivityDate="2017-09-29T09:20:23.900" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4671" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4644" CreationDate="2017-09-29T16:24:56.163" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Slic3r uses &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/admesh/admesh&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;ADMesh&lt;/a&gt; internally to validate and fix mesh. You could try to use ADMesh directly to see a limited information about what was changed. Note that Slic3r bundles it's own copy of ADMesh and depending on your Slic3r version and edition, the behavior of it's ADMesh might slightly differ from the standalone one. (For example Slic3r Prusa Editon patches it's own ADMesh very heavily.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Using ADMesh CLI:&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$ admesh cube_bad.stl &#xA;ADMesh version 0.98.2, Copyright (C) 1995, 1996 Anthony D. Martin&#xA;ADMesh comes with NO WARRANTY.  This is free software, and you are welcome to&#xA;redistribute it under certain conditions.  See the file COPYING for details.&#xA;Opening cube_bad.stl&#xA;Checking exact...&#xA;Checking nearby. Tolerance= 1.000000 Iteration=1 of 2...  Fixed 0 edges.&#xA;Checking nearby. Tolerance= 1.000173 Iteration=2 of 2...  Fixed 0 edges.&#xA;Removing unconnected facets...&#xA;Filling holes...&#xA;Checking normal directions...&#xA;Checking normal values...&#xA;Calculating volume...&#xA;Verifying neighbors...&#xA;&#xA;================= Results produced by ADMesh version 0.98.2 ================&#xA;Input file         : cube_bad.stl&#xA;File type          : ASCII STL file&#xA;Header             : solid cube (repaired)&#xA;============== Size ==============&#xA;Min X =  0.000000, Max X =  1.000000&#xA;Min Y =  0.000000, Max Y =  1.000000&#xA;Min Z =  0.000000, Max Z =  1.000000&#xA;========= Facet Status ========== Original ============ Final ====&#xA;Number of facets                 :    12                  12&#xA;Facets with 1 disconnected edge  :     3                   0&#xA;Facets with 2 disconnected edges :     0                   0&#xA;Facets with 3 disconnected edges :     1                   0&#xA;Total disconnected facets        :     4                   0&#xA;=== Processing Statistics ===     ===== Other Statistics =====&#xA;Number of parts       :     1        Volume   :  1.000000&#xA;Degenerate facets     :     0&#xA;Edges fixed           :     0&#xA;Facets removed        :     1&#xA;Facets added          :     1&#xA;Facets reversed       :     2&#xA;Backwards edges       :     0&#xA;Normals fixed         :     2&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The statistics should give you some idea about what happened.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Using ADMeshGUI:&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Find ADMeshGUI at &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/admesh/ADMeshGUI/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;github.com/admesh/ADMeshGUI&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Open the file and click the &lt;strong&gt;REPAIR&lt;/strong&gt; button in bottom right. See the changes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bIKpm.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bIKpm.png&quot; alt=&quot;ADMeshGUI&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="53" LastActivityDate="2017-09-29T16:24:56.163" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4672" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-09-29T16:57:09.640" Score="2" ViewCount="264" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is a good tool to use to design a back plate for a Ring Doorbell?  The shape will essentially be a wedge shape, tilting the doorbell to the side and down a bit.  I'll need to iterate over a few prints, so want to be able to tweak it as I go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've found TinkerCAD doesn't let me adjust shape sizes, stretching one axis but not the other.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8563" LastActivityDate="2018-10-22T01:06:11.383" Title="Designing back plate for Ring Doorbell" Tags="|3d-design|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2018-10-22T14:20:33.623" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4674" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1553" CreationDate="2017-09-29T22:54:12.010" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the actual Marlin Firmware all supported printer boards are listed within the file &quot;boards.h&quot;. This file contains the following entries for the RAMPS 1.4:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&#xA;#define BOARD_RAMPS_13_EFB  33 // RAMPS 1.3 / 1.4 (Power outputs: Extruder, Fan, Bed)&#xA;#define BOARD_RAMPS_13_EEB  34 // RAMPS 1.3 / 1.4 (Power outputs: Extruder0, Extruder1, Bed)&#xA;#define BOARD_RAMPS_13_EFF  35 // RAMPS 1.3 / 1.4 (Power outputs: Extruder, Fan, Fan)&#xA;#define BOARD_RAMPS_13_EEF  36 // RAMPS 1.3 / 1.4 (Power outputs: Extruder0, Extruder1, Fan)&#xA;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The most common version may be the variant . In this case you have to set the value as the following lines show.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&#xA;#ifndef MOTHERBOARD&#xA;  #define MOTHERBOARD BOARD_RAMPS_13_EFB&#xA;#endif&#xA;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Enable Display&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&#xA;#define REPRAP_DISCOUNT_FULL_GRAPHIC_SMART_CONTROLLER&#xA;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ok, it's time to make the adjustments specific to your 3d printer. You might first check the setting for the amount of extruders at around line 58. Most 3d printer rookies may start with one extruder, so the default entry of '1' is quite sufficient.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;// This defines the number of extruders&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&#xA;#define EXTRUDERS 1&#xA;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At around line 70 you have to set up the thermistors connected to the RAMPS for the extruder and the heatbed. Depending on your hardware configuration you have to change the last value in the defines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&#xA;#define TEMP_SENSOR_0 -1&#xA;#define TEMP_SENSOR_1 -1&#xA;#define TEMP_SENSOR_2 0&#xA;#define TEMP_SENSOR_BED 0&#xA;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The define for TEMP_SENSOR_0 determins which thermistor type is assembled at the hotend of extruder 1. This termistor has to be connected to the first sensor input (see also wiring schema). The thermistor for the heatbed has to be connected to the second sensor input. The thermistor type is configured with the define line of 'TEMP_SENSOR_BED'. If you use a thermistor of the type EPCOS B57560G104F (100K, Beta = 4036), you write the value '1' into the matching define. In case you have a thermistor with 100k and Beta = 3950, you have to set the value '60' in the corresponding define. So the defines will look e.g.:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For EPCOS (Beta = 4036) on hotend and heatbed:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&#xA;#define TEMP_SENSOR_0 1&#xA;#define TEMP_SENSOR_1 -1&#xA;#define TEMP_SENSOR_2 0&#xA;#define TEMP_SENSOR_BED 1&#xA;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For Beta = 3950 on hotend and heatbed:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&#xA;#define TEMP_SENSOR_0 60&#xA;#define TEMP_SENSOR_1 -1&#xA;#define TEMP_SENSOR_2 0&#xA;#define TEMP_SENSOR_BED 60&#xA;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4454" LastActivityDate="2017-09-29T22:54:12.010" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4675" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="253" CreationDate="2017-09-30T00:49:48.007" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Mix 'em, let us know how you go. You're unlikely to damage your printer, and you're only 'wasting' scrap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suspect that if you mix in small quantities of ABS (30% or less) you'll end up with a PLA mix similar to a 'wood' or 'metal' PLA filament.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To that end, recommend trying to print with PLA settings first, and going from there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Make sure you let us know how you go, it'll be real interesting to see the results!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8567" LastActivityDate="2017-09-30T00:49:48.007" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4677" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-09-30T09:36:41.353" Score="3" ViewCount="531" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm using Solidworks to design parts to be 3d-printed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've noticed that if I'm making an assembly, where one part has features that touch other parts, then when I try to save that assembly as an STL for printing, I'll get a dialog from Solidworks saying &quot;This assembly has coincident or interfering geometry that may be unsuitable for some rapid prototyping systems.&quot; If I save it, then this STL later causes problems when trying to print it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What can I do? I'd like to be able to print my assemblies.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.dropbox.com/s/q6fpzxcpwbmb48o/Interference%20test.SLDASM?dl=0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Here is a very simple example assembly&lt;/a&gt; where you can see this phenomenon. Part 1 is just a simple cube, and part 2 is another simple cube that is flush with part 1.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8572" LastActivityDate="2018-05-01T06:12:54.250" Title="Solidworks: Coincident or interfering geometry when saving assembly to STL" Tags="|3d-models|software|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4678" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-09-30T15:06:29.600" Score="3" ViewCount="220" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm a 3D printing newbie, and I bought some Hatchbox PLA to start with since it is recommended by the community it seems.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there really a steep quality drop off if you go for brands that are 50% less than Hatchbox?  What does that quality drop off look like?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8556" LastActivityDate="2017-10-11T09:33:46.793" Title="Filament Cost vs. Quality?" Tags="|print-material|material|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4679" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4227" CreationDate="2017-09-30T19:59:42.790" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;if something strange appears after few layers/some time it's usually the issue of overheating steppers&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;if this is the case i suggest to &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;tune up Z stepper current&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;add cooling fan which blows on your steppers&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;see also: &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/2701/kossel-accumulates-error-along-z-axis/2705#2705&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/899/why-is-my-print-displacing-along-the-y-axis-by-2-3-cm/903#903&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1211" LastActivityDate="2017-09-30T19:59:42.790" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4680" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4166" CreationDate="2017-09-30T21:46:51.967" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It appears that at a certain point, you're running into issues with the extrusion being a bit too viscous / melted causing it to over-deposit or string (fail to retract completely). It also looks like this issue gradually gets worse as you go. This really feels like nozzle over-heating to me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/S7dKu.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/S7dKu.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/piGYz.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/piGYz.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My troubleshooting steps would go like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Make sure my cooling it set correctly and fan is working properly.&lt;/strong&gt; The nozzle doesn't adjust its temp for changes in extrusion speed. At times the printer has to rely on the cooling to get the extrusion leaving the nozzle to an ideal deposition temp, which is far lower than the temperate of the nozzle.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Check my tool paths to make sure I'm not starting to return to the same X/Y position too immediately when I reach certain layers, not allowing the previous layer to fully solidify. &lt;strong&gt;Consider tweaking the slicer or printing at a lower temperate.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Check if there's a lot of variance in print speeds for different tasks (shell, infill, etc). It can be hard for some printers to maintain the right temp for the extrusion about to be deposited if the speed changes too rapidly. If your printer has been heating extrusion rapidly for quick movements and then the speed slows way down, it can struggle to keep the subsequent slow filament from getting overcooked, as it can't instantly cool the nozzle even with proper cooling. &lt;strong&gt;Bring the various extrusion speeds closer together.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8579" LastEditorUserId="8579" LastEditDate="2017-10-01T10:27:01.190" LastActivityDate="2017-10-01T10:27:01.190" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4681" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4682" CreationDate="2017-10-01T01:36:14.353" Score="3" ViewCount="2038" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am new to Fusion 360 and I think I'm going straight to something complicated. Is there a way to make a nose cone for a model rocket? What tools would one you to accomplish this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8583" LastActivityDate="2017-10-02T14:26:45.557" Title="Make a nose cone in Fusion 360" Tags="|3d-design|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4682" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4681" CreationDate="2017-10-01T01:57:27.470" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have a specific shape in mind and can create a sketch to represent that shape, you are halfway to your goal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The concept is simple. Create a single line sketch that would represent the desired curve, starting from, in this example, the nose of the cone and traveling to the base. Create only one-half of the nose cone curve and maintain a &quot;standard&quot; axis reference, say, using the Y-axis as the rotation point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The process is called &lt;a href=&quot;http://help.autodesk.com/view/fusion360/ENU/?guid=GUID-5C62F370-7AB4-4DFD-BE61-F8830F30A6D7&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;revolve. Fusion 360&lt;/a&gt; supports this action directly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;In the Sculpt workspace, choose Create Revolve.&#xA;Select the profile to revolve.&#xA;In the Revolve dialog:&#xA;    Click Axis and then select the axis to revolve around.&#xA;    Choose Full or Angle to specify whether the revolution is full or to a specific angle.&#xA;    For Direction choose One Side, Two Side or Symmetrical.&#xA;    For Symmetry, choose None or Circular.&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The above text is taken directly from the link. The specific web site also includes a Flash video of the steps involved.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If thickness is required for your creation, consider to draw the sketch from the nose to the base, then use Offset or hand sketch in a parallel line that returns to the nose. Ensure the base segment is joined and that the nose segments are open and are aligned to the Y-axis.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As the sketch is revolved, the nose sections will &quot;close&quot; while the base creates the closure necessary to make a solid that is hollow within and open at the bottom.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Use The Google or your preferred search engine with the terms &quot;Fusion 360 Revolve&quot; to find many tutorials and videos with the same information presented in various ways.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastActivityDate="2017-10-01T01:57:27.470" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4685" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4681" CreationDate="2017-10-02T14:26:45.557" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Try model8ng the rocket into the workspace, and then you can extruder a nose cone from the top using a 30 degree angle&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7019" LastActivityDate="2017-10-02T14:26:45.557" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4686" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4166" CreationDate="2017-10-02T14:30:44.623" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Try using 20 mm/s and 3.9 mm for your retraction and that should help. Also, what is your fan speed at?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7019" LastActivityDate="2017-10-02T14:30:44.623" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4687" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4678" CreationDate="2017-10-02T14:33:36.750" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is no massive difference in print quality of PLA filaments unless you start going under 10 dollars US for a 1 kilo spool. The filament that I use is yoyi  PLA that can be found on Amazon for about 20 bucks, this filament works really nice with my printer and it is fairly cheap. Just make sure you never use the hobby king brand PLS as the quality on that truly is horrendous.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7019" LastActivityDate="2017-10-02T14:33:36.750" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4688" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4188" CreationDate="2017-10-02T14:38:26.333" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you want it to be engraved, then sketch out the sound wave on the center plane. When you go to extrude, click &quot;extrude from&quot;, and then click &quot;from object&quot;. Click on the plane you want to extrude from, and then 2xtrude however for you would like to. Another way to do this would be to project the sketch onto the surface, and then extrude the projection. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7019" LastActivityDate="2017-10-02T14:38:26.333" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4690" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-10-02T16:29:13.293" Score="4" ViewCount="430" Body="&lt;p&gt;The last few days my 3D printer has not been working, despite the fact that the LCD Screen has been working perfectly (since the problem the LCD bright potentiometer went very sensitive, so the brightness set to the maximum although before the problem it was perfectly calibrated).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem arrived when I was unplugging the fan from the board because it wasn't working while the printer was on, suddenly the LCDs brightness set to the maximum so I turned the printer off as fast as I could. When I turned it on again, I had to recalibrate the LCDs brightness and when I tried to move the steppers the weren't working, some of them made strange noises and didn't move. I have to say that now every time I turn on my printer, an orange LED flashes, but I cannot remember if it was normal or not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My 3D printer: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.gearbest.com/3d-printers-3d-printer-kits/pp_375209.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Geeetech I3 Pro B 3D Printer DIY Kit - Black US Plug    1&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The board I'm using: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.amazon.es/XCSOURCE%C2%AE-Controlador-visualizaci%C3%B3n-inteligente-TE621/dp/B01N66HPLL&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;XCSOURCE® Kit de impresora 3D con RAMPS 1.4 Controlador + Mega 2560 Board + 5pcs A4988 Controlador de motor de pasos con disipador de calor + LCD 12864 Controlador gráfico de visualización inteligente con adaptador para Arduino TE621&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8592" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2019-10-28T17:46:16.307" LastActivityDate="2019-10-28T17:46:16.307" Title="Is my 3D printer totally dead?" Tags="|prusa-i3|troubleshooting|geeetech|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4692" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7116" CreationDate="2017-10-03T04:11:02.003" Score="9" ViewCount="57573" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm having a frustrating problem with my recent built custom 3D printer&#xA;so every single print I made, from the third layer, the nozzle is &amp;quot;rubbing&amp;quot; on the already placed filament.  This results in a complete mess, melting the previous layers with the nozzle / new extrusions coming, getting malformed and out of precision forms, if I leave this happening, my Y-axis motor (bed) start to jump steps (by the force of nozzle friction to cold material). To stop that symptom, at the beginning of this, I have to raise the Z-axis by hand turning about 1/8 rotation of T8 fuse. By doing this, every rest of my printing runs peaceful, nicely, and beautiful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm using Marlin firmware, the most recent version, and Ultimaker Cura. My nozzle size is 0.5 and I'm using Ultimaker Cura's Fine Preset (0.1 mm height)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My stepper motors axis are very well calibrated (X, Y, Z and Extruder). I tried:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;lowering and raising the print bed to get spaced or shrunken first layers to see if something helps,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;tried to change Z home offset on display,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;tried the &lt;code&gt;M206&lt;/code&gt; command to change the print zone of the Z-axis,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;tried to change the first layer height on Ultimaker Cura,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;but nothing seems to solve my problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Due to my lack of experience, I don't know what I could try to solve this frustrating issue. I already check and rechecked my mechanical structure and everything was fine solid and very well balanced and square.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/erJNy.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Photo of failed print - side&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/erJNy.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Photo of failed print - side&quot; title=&quot;Photo of failed print - side&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YHGU5.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Photo of failed print - front&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YHGU5.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Photo of failed print - front&quot; title=&quot;Photo of failed print - front&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From comment:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Printing speed are 40 mm/s,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Temps:&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hotend: 220 °C;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hot Bed: 120 °C;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I have also tried 110 °C,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;My Z-axis uses 800 steps per mm (1/32 micro stepping on DRV8825 at RAMPS).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm thinking about over extrusion but I have fine tuned my stepper, checked and rechecked for it and seems normal&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8601" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2021-03-01T12:58:07.727" LastActivityDate="2021-06-16T07:07:18.173" Title="Nozzle rubs on previous layers" Tags="|print-quality|diy-3d-printer|calibration|z-axis|layer-height|" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4693" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4692" CreationDate="2017-10-03T14:28:00.930" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The first picture seems to show layer shift. Usual causes include:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Missed Z movement, so the nozzle hits the build and the layer is offset.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bad acceleration in X/Y, so there is missed X/Y movement, and the layer is offset.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Adjustment: reduce Z G0 speed, and reduce X/Y speeds (G0 and G1) and acceleration, and then repeat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hopefully, correcting this will make the issue in the second picture easier to diagnose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4922" LastActivityDate="2017-10-03T14:28:00.930" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4694" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4695" CreationDate="2017-10-03T15:26:56.933" Score="5" ViewCount="271" Body="&lt;p&gt;I ordered a MOSFET module on eBay for my 3D printer and I did not get the one in the picture but I got this: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EViOu.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;The thing I received&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EViOu.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;The thing I received&quot; title=&quot;The thing I received&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If there is any way I could use this on my Anet A8 could someone tell me how, as it only has one input connector, DC in, and 12&amp;nbsp;V out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8613" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-07-06T10:29:35.157" LastActivityDate="2018-07-06T10:29:35.157" Title="MOSFET problems!" Tags="|heated-bed|diy-3d-printer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4695" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4694" CreationDate="2017-10-03T16:01:37.450" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, this module is completely useless for your intended purpose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The load side is marked with &quot;5A 5-220VDC&quot;. This means it can only switch up to 5A, maximum. The heated bed draws more than twice this current.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastActivityDate="2017-10-03T16:01:37.450" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4697" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4664" CreationDate="2017-10-03T22:58:38.253" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use raft almost always for ABS and PLA. My favorite setting for gap is somewhere between 0.11-0.13 mm both for 0.1 and 0.2 mm layer height.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By using 3-4 layers of raft I always get predictably good quality of a lower layer and not have any issues with removing prints from the surface which I had without using raft (especially with large or weak prints)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3839" LastActivityDate="2017-10-03T22:58:38.253" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4698" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3683" CreationDate="2017-10-04T01:37:46.753" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am having the same issue.  I saw one similar post describe this as &quot;baconing&quot; and said it comes from over extrusion.  Looking at the filament coming out I could imagine that if there is too much filament for the given travel speed, then it would buckle up. I tried decreasing the extrusion percentage. The Makerbot slicing program doesn't have a setting for that so I did multiple test prints and raised the filament diameter from the default 1.77 to 1.84 in the end, which is about at 20% decrease in the extruder output.  I also slowed the prints speed.  Both factors seemed to improve the quality, so over extrusion and speed both seem to be contributing factors, but the problem still hasn't gone away completely.  It's happening with white Makerbot brand filament on large layers but not with green Makerbot brand and small layer heights (I haven't yet tried green coarse or white fine).  I measured the white filament diameter with calipers and it is the proper 1.75mm, I'm just forcing it to extrude less by putting 1.84mm into the slicer settings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8617" LastActivityDate="2017-10-04T01:37:46.753" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4699" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-10-04T06:54:47.300" Score="7" ViewCount="14507" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I am missing small sections of a layer when it prints, after a retraction for a layer change or a move, the extruder stops moving (no it isn't clicking or anything else. Just not moving). Which is fine for a few millimeters because the pressure inside the Bowden setup keeps pushing enough filament through. However, once that isn't enough it starts to make very thin lines with beads of plastic just barely holding things together. Basically this ends up as a good 2 cm or more at times of highly under extruded lines. &#xA;This happens in the slowdown after the retraction when it is restarting.&#xA;it simply doesn't move the extruder at all. &#xA;The reason I know this is because I can see the extruder not moving, in that brief period. I know it is not the extruder clicking or anything else because I can disengage the extruder spring and push filament through manually during this time with no issues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am using Ideamaker currently because I like it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have looked at this &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/313/holes-missing-layers-after-retraction-in-3d-printed-objects&quot;&gt;Holes/ missing layers (after retraction) in 3d printed objects&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;which is somewhat similar in appearance, but not in reason. &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Eq26y.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Eq26y.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ag8OA.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ag8OA.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Just a better image from the other side of the print&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT:&lt;/strong&gt;  So I figure it is some form of coasting that IdeaMaker has implemented for their Raise printers. I am going to try and reduce the length of the coaster attempt to convert my Bowden to a direct drive with titan extruder. I have the Titan already, but it has been giving me issues with not having enough power to push filament without ripping it to shreds. That's another thing I have to look at at some point when I have the time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8619" LastEditorUserId="8619" LastEditDate="2017-10-06T17:12:04.620" LastActivityDate="2020-02-02T12:22:18.130" Title="missing small sections of layers after a retraction" Tags="|pla|fdm|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4700" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4699" CreationDate="2017-10-04T11:40:30.097" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Try lowering your retraction settings further. I have had this issue before as well, but you need to experiment with your retraction settings in order to get it right. I would suggest placing 2  one cm blocks side by side and starting with a retraction of 2 mm and working your way up from there until you get the lowest stringiness with the least amount of under extrusion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7019" LastActivityDate="2017-10-04T11:40:30.097" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4701" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="740" CreationDate="2017-10-04T14:08:03.410" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The software I began with was &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.tinkercad.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Tinkercad&lt;/a&gt;, it is a fully online solution that is &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; beginner friendly. The interface is trivial to use and there's a 15 minutes tutorial that guides you over everything the software has to offer to the common user.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a screenshot of the interface and a part I made using the basic tools :&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DOr6M.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DOr6M.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It works the following way : you are provided with a dozen basic shapes (cube, sphere, etc...) and you create your model using boolean combinations of those shapes and translation, rotation and scaling. That's for the base.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then there is a very large collection of more complex shapes provided by the community (screw, stairs, tree) that tend to be very useful to create specific things and a very important aspect is that those shape usually have some parameter you can adjust at the creation of the object (say the thickness of the trunk and the number of branches of your tree). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The last increment of complexity is that those community objects are actually made using JavaScript (with their own API, it's not related to openjscad) and you can create your own objects by using their &lt;strong&gt;interactive JavaScript interface&lt;/strong&gt;. That's when your programming and mathematical knowledge will be required.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a small PS note: my personal taste is, depending on the part I want to make, to use either Tinkercad, Freecad or Openscad&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8623" LastEditorUserId="8623" LastEditDate="2017-10-04T14:19:35.933" LastActivityDate="2017-10-04T14:19:35.933" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4703" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-10-04T19:05:13.593" Score="3" ViewCount="976" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been trying to install an inductive sensor for auto-bed levelling into my Anet A8 and I'm having a few issues. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have been using the wiring diagram provided by Solid Ground Electronics in one of his videos (&lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/2wt1UYoERvY&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Cheap 3D Printer - Anet A8: Upgrades, Experience &amp;amp; Thoughts&lt;/a&gt;), which I decided to follow as it still uses the Z limit switch, in case the inductive sensor fails to work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The sensor seems to work when I power the printer on, the red LED is constantly on and when it comes into contact with metal, the LED turns brighter (as shown in the photos).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, when I set it to auto-home, the Z axis does not move down like it usually does (until it hits the switch), but it moves up a bit. Although when I auto-homed the printer with a piece of metal under the sensor, the Z axis moved down, like it should do. So the sensor is acting in an opposite way to what it needs to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I believe that it's been wired up correctly with a 10k ohm resistor connected to the base of the transistor and the signal wire of the probe. However the NPN transistor shown in the diagram is '2N4401' and the one I used is 'PN2222A', but I believe this should have no difference in the function of the transistor (only the voltages it can handle). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I initially thought that as the NPN transistor is slightly different, perhaps the polarity of emitter and collector is incorrect, so I switched them around but the problem still occurs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would thoroughly appreciate it if anyone can help!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8628" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2018-07-08T14:56:35.353" LastActivityDate="2018-07-08T14:56:35.353" Title="Unable to install auto-bed levelling sensor into my Anet A8" Tags="|z-axis|anet-a8|z-probe|endstop|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4704" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4703" CreationDate="2017-10-04T19:46:03.870" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The sensor is working correctly, but the signal is inverted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Take the obvious solution: invert the endstop from being normally open to normally closed or vice-versa in your firmware.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you still want to use your existing limit switch in parallel with the sensor (as shown in the video), you will need to switch that one over as well (usually limit switches have 3 contact points, one common, one NC, one NO, so you'd need to move the wire from the NC contact to NO or vice-versa).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastActivityDate="2017-10-04T19:46:03.870" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4705" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="740" CreationDate="2017-10-05T08:17:26.767" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am using DesignSpark Mechanical. It's super cool and easy to use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.rs-online.com/designspark/mechanical-download-and-installation&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;DesignSpark Mechanical Download Page&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4285" LastActivityDate="2017-10-05T08:17:26.767" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4706" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4732" CreationDate="2017-10-05T14:04:49.993" Score="3" ViewCount="9919" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to use nail polish to paint and smooth a PLA model. Could nail polish damage a model made out of pure PLA?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="106" LastActivityDate="2019-06-12T22:55:16.533" Title="Could nail polish damage pure PLA?" Tags="|pla|color|smoothing|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4707" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-10-05T18:55:00.743" Score="1" ViewCount="320" Body="&lt;p&gt;i ordred a xyzprinter 3d scanner today on ebay, bechause i through it would work with my quick new windows 10 pc setup. but when i tested the scanner compability i downloaded here now, it says that all settings on my pc is compatible, but exept from the prosessor i have, the amd ryzen 7, 8 core. it says that my computer is not compatible with the xyz scanner bechause i have not the intel 4 or newer intel prosessor, but instead of having intel prosessor, i have an amd ryzen 7, 8 core prosessor. will the xyz 3d scanner work anyway, even if i have not intel but as quick as an old intel 4thgen prosessor is, i have an new amd ryzen 7, 8 core?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(i have also 32gb ram memory and nvidia 1070 mini graphic card with 8gb ram in and windows home 10 64bit and 3 usb 3.0 ports on my pc. and a corsair motherboard).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8671" LastActivityDate="2017-11-06T20:15:35.247" Title="can the intel sense &quot;xyzprinters 3dscanner&quot; work on amd prossessors anyway?" Tags="|3d-design|scanning|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4710" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-10-06T19:01:38.640" Score="2" ViewCount="235" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was sent my sensor (a ROKO) and I plugged it in with the pins in the wrong order, would this break my sensor? If so is there anything I could do?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8613" LastActivityDate="2017-10-07T08:39:35.293" Title="ROKO bed levelling sensor" Tags="|printer-building|diy-3d-printer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4711" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4706" CreationDate="2017-10-07T02:30:03.780" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Nail polish contains acetone.  It melts PLA, so yes you &lt;em&gt;could&lt;/em&gt; damage it.  Google acetone vapor batch to read up on a safer way to do the job.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1397" LastActivityDate="2017-10-07T02:30:03.780" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4712" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4710" CreationDate="2017-10-07T08:39:35.293" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can't comment for the specific sensor you have, but in general, yes, if you plug something in backwards you have a chance of breaking it - and whatever you plug it into - permanently.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might have gotten lucky, though - but short of testing the sensor to see whether it will work there is no way to find out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Consider that these sensors are not made to be plugged directly into endstop connectors. The endstop connectors only provide 5V, whereas these sensors often require at least 6V to operate. Some people get lucky and have theirs work on only 5V, but it's not guaranteed to work. This might also be the cause why your sensor is not working, even if it's not broken. There are some special sensors out there that are rated to work at 5V, but you should check the operating voltage of your specific sensor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your sensor requires more than 5V to operate, then you should also be aware that the signal pin might output more than 5V, in which case, it should not be connected directly to the signal pin on the board (since anything over 5V might damage the board).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, consider the possibility that neither orientation (backwards or not) is correct. Perhaps the order of the wires in the sensor's connector is different from that of the main board. Make sure that the pinout of your sensor matches the pinout of the connector on your board. These sensors usually have a slightly strange color coding where black is signal, blue is ground and brown is power.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastActivityDate="2017-10-07T08:39:35.293" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4713" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4707" CreationDate="2017-10-07T19:52:22.907" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here are some ways a program might indicate incompatibility:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There is something in the code that is actually incompatible -- such&#xA;as some Intel-only DSP instructions. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;They are using an Intel library or source code that is licensed only for &#xA;use on Intel processors.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;They added a check to their code to be sure the processor was&#xA;powerful enough to handle the load, and they forgot to consider AMD&#xA;or other processors.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2082" LastActivityDate="2017-10-07T19:52:22.907" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4714" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4706" CreationDate="2017-10-07T19:56:35.887" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would not expect a problem.  The greatest problem I would expect would be if the PLA layers were not well bonded, and the coating material could work in between layers.  If so, over time the difference in water absorption or thermal expansion could further separate the layers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2082" LastActivityDate="2017-10-07T19:56:35.887" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4715" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4517" CreationDate="2017-10-07T20:52:26.823" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Bushings will be quieter than linear ball bearings.  Some online discussions complain of the linear bearings becoming noisy, and (in what I think is a failure of the balls to circulate properly) for the balls to develop flat spots.  If the balls aren't moving properly, you will end up with a bushing.  You might start with a bushing in the first place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bushings spread the load over the surface of the rods, so there should be minimal wear.  Bearings and bushings are limited by the load and the speed.  In 3D printers, neither the speeds or the loads are particularly high.  Bushings should work well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bushings may have slightly higher sliding friction, which could result in slower maximum printing speed for motors with the same torque.  The characteristics should be more stable as they age.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Others may have different experience, but I would consider either the self-lubricated brass bushings, or perhaps the self-lubricated graphite bushings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As an example, inkjet and laser printers do not use ball bearings for the carrier.  15 years ago, it was bronze bushing on stainless steel shafts.  Over time, it has evolved to PTFE pads sliding on stamped sheet metal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2082" LastActivityDate="2017-10-07T20:52:26.823" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4721" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4678" CreationDate="2017-10-11T09:33:46.793" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In addition to @TecTec3's answer:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Parameters that define filament quality:&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Diameter variance: If there is too much fluctuation in diameter, the filament might get stuck.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Material Quality: I had really expensive filament that was brittle and did tend to snap when it was extruded. Other filament just didn't melt but started burning up and regulary clogging my extruder.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;My opinion:&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd say you shouldn't go with too cheap filament and stick with one that works out best for you. If you have issues try another brand. It's impossible to tell quality just from the price.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4285" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:29:41.667" LastActivityDate="2017-10-11T09:33:46.793" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4722" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10" CreationDate="2017-10-11T09:39:13.767" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think ABS would be your best bet. It's not biodegradable and realtivley easy to print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But you can use more or less any material if you use some form of coating on it. I would always go for coated PLA instead of other materials just because PLA is the easiest to print and it's nontoxic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4285" LastActivityDate="2017-10-11T09:39:13.767" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4726" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="475" CreationDate="2017-10-12T03:28:56.310" Score="-3" Body="&lt;p&gt;One possibility is that after some time, your bed's sliding rods become sticky (where printer but not yourself notice).  Turn printer's power off, spray windex on rods and bearings, slide the bed forth and back until it becomes slippery, wipe any excess around, turn power back on.  reconnect printer and send it to home xyz coordinates since you moved bed, messing up its xyz memory. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8705" LastActivityDate="2017-10-12T03:28:56.310" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4732" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4706" CreationDate="2017-10-13T20:51:11.590" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;NO if you want to smooth your print, gently heat the plastic and with a utensil smooth out the plastic. A hair dryer is a good way of doing this but be careful to only lightly melt the outside of the model.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8726" LastEditorUserId="8052" LastEditDate="2017-10-23T05:37:23.473" LastActivityDate="2017-10-23T05:37:23.473" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4733" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="253" CreationDate="2017-10-13T20:53:15.117" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;yes but you would have to experiment with the settings to see were it afectivly melts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8726" LastActivityDate="2017-10-13T20:53:15.117" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4735" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4739" CreationDate="2017-10-14T10:44:39.993" Score="2" ViewCount="1148" Body="&lt;p&gt;A while ago, I created some simple command buttons in Octoprint to help with bed levelling, by hopping to particular points on the bed. I realised that what I actually want to do is move Z up 10mm, move, and then home Z though, to avoid ploughing the nozzle along the bed if the level is badly off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I did this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;  - commands:&#xA;    - G91&#xA;    - G1 Z-10&#xA;    - G90&#xA;    - G1 X30 Y160 F9000&#xA;    - G28 Z&#xA;    name: Back Left&#xA;    type: command&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which should be, switch to relative move, Move -10mm Z, switch back to absolute, go to the specified point and then home Z.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Except there's no Z move. I get the feeling that something might be optimising the moves together into one, or something similar... how can I get my printer to move up, &lt;em&gt;then&lt;/em&gt; across, &lt;em&gt;then&lt;/em&gt; down?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(printer is an quite modified Anet A8 i3 clone - I think the board is Melzi-based?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7233" LastActivityDate="2017-10-14T15:38:04.470" Title="gcode commands in octoprint: Z moves ignored?" Tags="|g-code|octoprint|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4736" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4735" CreationDate="2017-10-14T13:38:50.960" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Thanks in part to Tom van Der Zanden, I got a working version, which I'll paste below to add some actual value to this question! The G1 XY coordinates for each position are for near the corners on a 220x220 bed, but leaving enough room to access a screw in the corner of the bed if you need to (I don't anymore, but my printer did initially) - for different bed sizes, you'll want to change them. Add to ~/.octoprint/config.yml&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;controls:&#xA;- children:&#xA;  - commands:&#xA;    - M140 S50&#xA;    - M104 S190 T0&#xA;    name: Preheat&#xA;    type: command&#xA;  - commands:&#xA;    - G91&#xA;    - G1 Z10&#xA;    - G90&#xA;    - G1 X30 Y50 F9000&#xA;    - G28 Z0&#xA;    name: Front Left&#xA;    type: command&#xA;  - commands:&#xA;    - G91&#xA;    - G1 Z10&#xA;    - G90&#xA;    - G1 X180 Y70 F9000&#xA;    - G28 Z0&#xA;    name: Front Right&#xA;    type: command&#xA;  - commands:&#xA;    - G91&#xA;    - G1 Z10&#xA;    - G90&#xA;    - G1 X30 Y160 F9000&#xA;    - G28 Z0&#xA;    name: Back Left&#xA;    type: command&#xA;  - commands:&#xA;    - G91&#xA;    - G1 Z10&#xA;    - G90&#xA;    - G1 X180 Y160 F9000&#xA;    - G28 Z0&#xA;    name: Back Right&#xA;    type: command&#xA;  - commands:&#xA;    - G91&#xA;    - G1 Z10&#xA;    - G90&#xA;    - G1 X100 Y100 F9000&#xA;    - G28 Z0&#xA;    name: Centre&#xA;    type: command&#xA;  layout: horizontal&#xA;  name: Levelling&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9JIfH.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9JIfH.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7233" LastActivityDate="2017-10-14T13:38:50.960" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4737" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4551" CreationDate="2017-10-14T14:34:12.727" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;As @Mikhail Z commented, it does sound like the fuse may be bad.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first thing to do is put an ohmmeter across the fuse (with power off!) -- if you get high resistance the fuse is definitely bad. However, if you get low resistance that does not prove the fuse is good -- see @Tom's comments below re. polyfuses in particular, and how to disconnect from the rest of the circuit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't get lucky testing a fuse in-line, remove it and put the ohmmeter on it in isolation. Whether good or bad, it's good to put in a fuse-holder or socket, so you never have to de-solder the fuse again. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some boards use auto-resetting fuses or circuit breakers, which might have more complicated ways of failing (you can always replace the part to be sure). I personally avoid auto-resetting for anything that supplies heaters; if there's a problem I want to intervene rather than letting it try again endlessly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since the heaters and the motors are both down, it's a good bet it's the fuse or something very early (that is, &quot;near&quot; the power supply). If it were a single motor or single heater, then the output control (typically a solid-state relay, or perhaps the logic controlling it) would be a better bet. Though unlikely, it's possible for two or more such controls to fail at once, so don't rule that out &lt;em&gt;completely&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let us know what you discover.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2017-10-24T14:17:55.883" LastActivityDate="2017-10-24T14:17:55.883" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4738" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4256" CreationDate="2017-10-14T14:46:05.230" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not that fluent in G-code, but at &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.mmsonline.com/columns/understanding-g27-g28-g29-and-g30&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Modern Machine Shop: Understanding G27, G28, G29 and G30&lt;/a&gt; I found these descriptions of the &lt;code&gt;G28&lt;/code&gt; and &lt;code&gt;G29&lt;/code&gt; codes you added:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;code&gt;G28&lt;/code&gt;: For any axis letter addresses included in the G28 command, the machine first will move (at rapid) to an intermediate position in those axes. Then, it will rapid to the zero return position in the commanded axes.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;code&gt;G29&lt;/code&gt;: G29 is also a two-step command. First, it causes the machine to move (in the axes commanded) to the intermediate position used in the most recent &lt;code&gt;G28&lt;/code&gt; command. Second, it causes the machine to move to the position included in the &lt;code&gt;G29&lt;/code&gt; command.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So it sounds to me like you only need one of those two commands. It seems that the code you modified runs separately on startup, rather than for each separate print. I would first try your modification with each G command separately, so you can see exactly what the difference is on your hardware.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know my way around the code involved, but it looks like you'd need to make the modification in another place, such as just before whatever loop sends successive commands to the printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope that's helpful despite my limited fluency...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2019-06-10T20:14:17.883" LastActivityDate="2019-06-10T20:14:17.883" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4739" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4735" CreationDate="2017-10-14T15:38:04.470" Score="0" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;what I actually want to do is move Z up 10mm&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The command &lt;code&gt;G1 Z-10&lt;/code&gt; tells the printer to &lt;em&gt;decrease&lt;/em&gt; the Z-axis position, i.e., move the nozzle closer to the bed. You should use &lt;code&gt;G1 Z10&lt;/code&gt; instead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastActivityDate="2017-10-14T15:38:04.470" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4742" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4520" CreationDate="2017-10-16T07:31:54.170" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are using a printer that runs Marlin, you might consider upgrading to a version with Linear Advance. Once I started using Linear Advance, I reduced the stringing of PETG. &#xA;Also I was able to reduce the retraction amount without reducing the quality of the prints.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8750" LastActivityDate="2017-10-16T07:31:54.170" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4745" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4746" CreationDate="2017-10-16T14:39:31.857" Score="13" ViewCount="49103" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm having a Prusa i3 derivative printer with a capacitive sensor for the z-axis. It switches a tiny bit before the nozzle hits the print bed and hence needs a z-offset to be configured.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In Slic3r I have configured the z-offset to &lt;code&gt;-0.1&lt;/code&gt; on the &lt;em&gt;General&lt;/em&gt; page of the &lt;em&gt;Printer Settings&lt;/em&gt;, but currently I'm evaluating Cura and can't find such a setting. Slic3r seems to apply this setting directly to the generated z-values in the g-code, so it does not use a short version at the beginning of the g-code. My current (except of the auto-bed-leveling part default) g-code:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;G28 ;Home&#xA;G29 ; auto-bed-leveling&#xA;G1 Z15.0 F6000 ;Move the platform down 15mm&#xA;G92 E0&#xA;G1 F200 E3&#xA;G92 E0&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a way to configure Cura, e.g. using the &lt;em&gt;Start Gcode&lt;/em&gt; options, to apply the z-offset?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5223" LastEditorUserId="5223" LastEditDate="2017-10-16T14:45:36.690" LastActivityDate="2018-05-15T12:28:30.210" Title="Cura: set z-offset" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|g-code|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4746" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4745" CreationDate="2017-10-16T14:54:54.080" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can trick the printer into applying an offset using the &lt;code&gt;G92&lt;/code&gt; command:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;G0 Z0&#xA;&#xA;G92 Z0.1&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, we move the nozzle to &lt;code&gt;Z=0&lt;/code&gt;. Next, through the &lt;code&gt;G92&lt;/code&gt; command, we tell the printer to, from now on, treat the current position as &lt;code&gt;Z=0.1&lt;/code&gt;. This effectively applies an offset of &lt;code&gt;-0.1&lt;/code&gt; to the Z-axis, since if we now executed &lt;code&gt;G0 Z0&lt;/code&gt; again, the nozzle would move down &lt;code&gt;0.1mm&lt;/code&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that this needs to be done after homing and leveling to be effective.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, you don't necessarily need to move the nozzle to &lt;code&gt;Z=0&lt;/code&gt; for this to work. You could also just insert &lt;code&gt;G92 Z15.1&lt;/code&gt; after &lt;code&gt;G0 Z15&lt;/code&gt; to get the same effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastActivityDate="2017-10-16T14:54:54.080" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4747" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4806" CreationDate="2017-10-16T15:28:02.170" Score="4" ViewCount="1026" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to draw a corner piece for a Kossel delta 3D printer in Fusion 360 for 2040 aluminum extrusions like in the picture below, but I can't find a way to actually start. I draw a 3-sided polygon and a 20x40 mm rectangle but don't know where to go from there. Do you have any suggestions?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hxAR4.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hxAR4.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;2D CAD drawing of corner geometry&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8416" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2023-07-19T16:57:51.300" LastActivityDate="2023-07-19T16:57:51.300" Title="How to draw a Kossel delta corner piece in Fusion 360?" Tags="|3d-design|kossel|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4748" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4747" CreationDate="2017-10-16T19:23:15.957" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I attempted to create your drawing but discovered that an important set of parameters is missing. You have to have either the intersection point of the legs (73.34) from each side or the angle between the legs (73.34) and the base (106.41) to create construction lines. Once you have either of those items, you can construct the remainder of the design using offsets, radii, etc. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More accurately, one other missing item that would be required to complete this design is the placement of the holes at the top (12) relative to some other feature of the design.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having taken on the challenge of your drawing, I've found that it is necessary to surrender. The angles or the intersection point are critical and without them, no solution comes to my alleged mind.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have also discovered one additional datum missing. The distance of the bottom truss and the thickness of this truss would be required to provide a more certain solution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One the flip side, I've found &lt;a href=&quot;https://alfa-tech3d.com/en/metal-thread-rods/corner-set-of-aluminum-to-delta-rostock-kossel-3d-printer.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;alpha-tech3d.com&lt;/a&gt; which appears to include similar parts, rotated 180° with what appears to have all of the necessary data.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/peYBe.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/peYBe.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;image of one part&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cjVpH.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cjVpH.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;image of another part&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastEditorUserId="854" LastEditDate="2017-10-17T01:21:29.830" LastActivityDate="2017-10-17T01:21:29.830" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4750" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4753" CreationDate="2017-10-17T07:21:56.447" Score="3" ViewCount="588" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is it possible to use Cura Engine (the command line tool) to generate a gcode with support?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is what I do now: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;CuraEngine slice -j /usr/share/cura/resources/definitions/ultimaker2.def.json -l my.stl -o my.gcode&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8762" LastEditorUserId="6359" LastEditDate="2017-10-18T13:17:29.487" LastActivityDate="2017-10-18T13:17:29.487" Title="Adding support when generating g-code from Cura Engine (command line)?" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|g-code|support-structures|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4751" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4763" CreationDate="2017-10-17T19:58:04.243" Score="6" ViewCount="34193" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am building a Prusa i3 MK2 Clone and I am caught on this one. I have replaced the extruder with a MK8 adapted by myself to fit with most of the previous hardware from the E3D style extruder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LzmiW.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LzmiW.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Here&amp;#39;s the extruder conversion setup&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My current problem is that the nozzle appears to be dragging on the top of the layers. I can't tell if it's over extrusion or a layer height issue or what. I am testing by printing the 20mm calibration cube. The dimensions appear to be spot-on, but the layers start building up too much filament such that it just gets re-melted and shuffled around:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yAqDT.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yAqDT.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;just dragging lines through the print&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyone have a clue what this could be? Software, Hardware, Slic3r Settings?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have:&#xA;0.5mm Nozzle Diameter.&#xA;MK8 Direct Drive extruder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anything else you want to know?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;--- UPDATE ---&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks everyone for your help. Turns out it was seriously over-extruding, like 3x what it should have been! I ran through this instructable: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-calibrate-the-Extruder-on-your-3d-Printer/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-calibrate-the-Extruder-on-your-3d-Printer/&lt;/a&gt; Which helped me with what I needed to do to fix the issue, but just re-flashed Marlin on the printer with the updated setting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's the result! WAY better, I still have some z-wobbling issues but i think the frame just needs more support than it has now and that should fix up the slightly jagged corners.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HfUNC.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HfUNC.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Steps per mm updated&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8768" LastEditorUserId="8768" LastEditDate="2017-10-19T18:22:19.033" LastActivityDate="2017-10-19T19:12:39.947" Title="Print Nozzle Dragging and Smearing Filament while Printing" Tags="|prusa-i3|pla|extruder|slic3r|prusa-i3-rework|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4752" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10" CreationDate="2017-10-17T20:09:13.827" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would think that ABS is a good choice if the application isn't in direct sunlight. ABS is what sprinkler lines are made from and those obviously do well under ground, though I have seen ABS that is left in the sun get super brittle over time and snap easily.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PLA also will slowly melt in direct sunlight. I have seen this one firsthand, having left a print on my windowsill and watching it slowly morph with the weight of objects on top of it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PETG is good in terms of easier printing with a good strength, but I cannot say that it's particularly good for outdoor use, depending on your use-case. It can be food-safe though!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It would seem to me like Nylon is your best bet, since this is super strong stuff, and is used as gears for things that exist outside, like boats and motorcycle parts, etc. I don't have specific proof that this is the best, but depending on what exactly you're trying to accomplish, it's likely the best choice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can always spray paint some kind of coating on the resulting print that will increase the UV protection. Something like &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B00AQ72JHE&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Krylon Preserve It Aerosol Spray&lt;/a&gt; perhaps? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8768" LastEditorUserId="233" LastEditDate="2017-10-18T11:13:55.480" LastActivityDate="2017-10-18T11:13:55.480" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4753" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4750" CreationDate="2017-10-17T20:38:40.953" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found this in the fdrmprinter.def.json which you could might make a copy of and use instead for the -j option:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;&quot;support&quot;:&#xA;    {&#xA;        &quot;label&quot;: &quot;Support&quot;,&#xA;        &quot;type&quot;: &quot;category&quot;,&#xA;        &quot;icon&quot;: &quot;category_support&quot;,&#xA;        &quot;description&quot;: &quot;Support&quot;,&#xA;        &quot;children&quot;:&#xA;        {&#xA;            &quot;support_enable&quot;:&#xA;            {&#xA;                &quot;label&quot;: &quot;Enable Support&quot;,&#xA;                &quot;description&quot;: &quot;Enable support structures. These structures support$&#xA;                &quot;type&quot;: &quot;bool&quot;,&#xA;                &quot;default_value&quot;: false,&#xA;                &quot;settable_per_mesh&quot;: true,&#xA;                &quot;settable_per_extruder&quot;: false&#xA;            }&#xA;        }&#xA;    }&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Change the &quot;default_value&quot; under &quot;support_enable&quot; to true and that could work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8768" LastActivityDate="2017-10-17T20:38:40.953" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4754" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-10-17T22:12:26.687" Score="1" ViewCount="423" Body="&lt;p&gt;New to this domain, I got my prusa i3 last week and finished assemblage. Repetier params in Linux Mint 18 are ok too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm now trying to launch slic3r for the first time but I got this error launching config button in repetier :&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;23:40:37.298 :  Can't locate Boost/Geometry/Utils.pm in @INC (you may need to install the Boost::Geometry::Utils module) (@INC contains: /home/mobidi/Téléchargements/RepetierHost/Slic3r/lib /etc/perl /usr/local/lib/x86_64-linux-gnu/perl/5.22.1 /usr/local/share/perl/5.22.1 /usr/lib/x86_64-linux-gnu/perl5/5.22 /usr/share/perl5 /usr/lib/x86_64-linux-gnu/perl/5.22 /usr/share/perl/5.22 /usr/local/lib/site_perl /usr/lib/x86_64-linux-gnu/perl-base .) at /home/mobidi/Téléchargements/RepetierHost/Slic3r/lib/Slic3r.pm line 32.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;23:40:37.298 :  BEGIN failed--compilation aborted at /home/mobidi/Téléchargements/RepetierHost/Slic3r/lib/Slic3r.pm line 32.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;23:40:37.298 :  Compilation failed in require at /home/mobidi/Téléchargements/RepetierHost/Slic3r/slic3r.pl line 13.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;23:40:37.298 :  BEGIN failed--compilation aborted at /home/mobidi/Téléchargements/RepetierHost/Slic3r/slic3r.pl line 13.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lines incriminated :&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;slic3r.pl line 13 :&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;use Slic3r;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Slic3r.pm line 32 :&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Use Boost::Geometry::Utils 0.12;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried to reinstall with this tuto :&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://blog.lkiefer.org/index.php?article12/installer-slic3r-sous-ubuntu-16-04-et-linux-mint-18&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://blog.lkiefer.org/index.php?article12/installer-slic3r-sous-ubuntu-16-04-et-linux-mint-18&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;But I got this error when dealing with the first command :&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Err:1 **********/ondrej/php/ubuntu xenial/main i386 libpcre3 i386 2:8.39-1+deb.sury.org~xenial+1&#xA;  404  Not Found&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Err:2 **********/ondrej/php/ubuntu xenial/main amd64 libpcre3 amd64 2:8.39-1+deb.sury.org~xenial+1&#xA;    404  Not Found&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Err:3 **********/ubuntu xenial-security/main amd64 libc6-dbg amd64 2.23-0ubuntu7&#xA;    404  Not Found [IP : 2001:67c:1562::19 80]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And a lot more almost indentical.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know at all how to deal with this I'm not sure if I'm doing the right thing at all, if somebody could guide me throught that I would be very thanksful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8770" LastEditorUserId="14562" LastEditDate="2020-07-09T20:54:27.937" LastActivityDate="2020-07-09T20:54:27.937" Title="Prusa i3 Linux Mint Slic3r install problem" Tags="|prusa-i3|slic3r|repetier|linux|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4755" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-10-18T02:44:17.407" Score="7" ViewCount="1618" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am trying to print a model that has (at the start of the print) several small parts attached to the bed. Some of these parts have bed contact 2.5mm x 20mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After a few layers, if there are any imperfections in the previous layer, the hotend is bumping the imperfection and knocking the part loose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am using a genuine Prusa i3 Mk2s with Filaform PLA. I am slicing with PrusaControl and using the &quot;Generic PLA&quot; settings, which is giving me 215/210 degree hot end (first/other layers), and 55 degree bed. I have the fan enabled. The print bed is clean and dust free&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I improve bed adhesion for these small parts, ideally without adding brims etc? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6736" LastActivityDate="2018-04-09T12:11:55.807" Title="Small part bed adhesion" Tags="|prusa-i3|pla|heated-bed|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4757" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4755" CreationDate="2017-10-18T03:51:04.237" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;One technique is to add your own custom brims to the model. A couple of &quot;Mickey Mouse ears&quot;, attached to each end of the piece, may be enough to keep it in place (and will also be easy to remove).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3953" LastActivityDate="2017-10-18T03:51:04.237" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4758" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4755" CreationDate="2017-10-18T09:08:02.677" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;First off, in my experience 215 °C printing temperature is very high for PLA. Try using 200 - 205 °C.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And whatever you are printing, I can't see why brims would be a problem. Use a sharp knife to remove them afterwards. As you described the parts are thin and long, which increases heat contraction. Brims are essential for this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4285" LastActivityDate="2017-10-18T09:08:02.677" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4760" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10" CreationDate="2017-10-18T11:40:45.287" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have several items printed in PLA that have been outdoors for about a year now. Apart from some discoloration I don't see any structural damage (yet?). Some of them are at the south side of a building so they get maximum sunlight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course Belgian summers can not be compared to Arizona summers!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6812" LastActivityDate="2017-10-18T11:40:45.287" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4761" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2624" CreationDate="2017-10-18T11:51:38.523" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use normal glass plates on top of my heated borosilicate glass bed all the time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Advantages:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;very cheap (about €3 where the borosilicate glass bed of my printer costs about €80 to replace)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;no need to wait till the bed cools down to start a new print. Just put on an other sheet of glass and start over. (I use 3dlac to make my prints stick better so trying to remove a print from a hot borosilicate glass bed often results in a chipped glass)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6812" LastActivityDate="2017-10-18T11:51:38.523" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4762" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10740" CreationDate="2017-10-18T20:04:26.710" Score="7" ViewCount="11138" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've printed a 2x2x2&amp;nbsp;cm test cube with Slic3r (left) and Ultimaker Cura (right) and my Prusa i3 derivative machine with tight belts. The print settings should be quite equal (0.15&amp;nbsp;mm layer height, 40&amp;nbsp;mm/s outer wall speed, default accelerations/jerks). Though the top surface of the Ultimaker Cura-cube looks much better than the Slic3r-cube,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NjqvC.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Left: Slic3er, right: Ultimaker Cura&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NjqvC.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Left: Slic3er, right: Ultimaker Cura&quot; title=&quot;Left: Slic3er, right: Ultimaker Cura&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;the latter has much flatter vertical walls than the first. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bxs8l.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Left: Slic3er, right: Ultimaker Cura&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bxs8l.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Left: Slic3er, right: Ultimaker Cura&quot; title=&quot;Left: Slic3er, right: Ultimaker Cura&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OUmz6.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Left: Slic3er, right: Ultimaker Cura&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OUmz6.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Left: Slic3er, right: Ultimaker Cura&quot; title=&quot;Left: Slic3er, right: Ultimaker Cura&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The front wall of the Ultimaker Cura-cube was printed from left to right which could explain the wavy result as some kind of vibration caused by the sharp y-stop at the left front corner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But what setting could have influenced this? Should I try to manual setting of lower accelerations in Ultimaker Cura?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5223" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-08-01T15:16:20.560" LastActivityDate="2022-02-03T12:14:14.850" Title="Wavy walls with Ultimaker Cura" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4763" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4751" CreationDate="2017-10-18T21:18:31.800" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;You stated your print of a 20mm cube came out spot on so I will rule out any z-axis configuration issues. It clearly seems like you are extruding too much plastic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I use slic3r myself with repetier so I am familiar with the settings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Print Settings&lt;/strong&gt; - Advanced&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All the values should be 0 except first layer sometimes is 100%-200% depending on your personal setup. Increasing these values may cause more filament to leave the extruder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Filament Settings&lt;/strong&gt; - Diameter&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This should be set to 1.75 or 3 depending on your filament size. If you accidentally have it set to 1.75 when your filament is 3mm, it would probably be over-extruding since it pushing almost double the plastic with the same length.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Filament Settings&lt;/strong&gt; - Extrusion multiplier&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This should be set to 1 or slowly adjust it 0.05 increments to reduce overall amount of plastic leaving the nozzle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Printer Settings&lt;/strong&gt; - Nozzle diameter&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This should be set to 0.5 since your nozzle is 0.5mm. Make sure your nozzle truly is this value.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDITED 10/19/17 - OP has solved problem and his own answer made me realize I made mistake on how to measure and correct extrusion steps/mm. Ignore this below and see what OP wrote in their edit.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If all these Slic3r configurations fail or are correct and do not solve your problem, I think you may want to look into your motor step settings for the extruder. It may be too high pushing more filament than it should. To correct this, you need to do the length test where you will extrude 10mm or 50mm and measure the string of plastic. There might be some stretch so a 10mm may measure as 11mm but as long as your close it should be good. If you extrude 10mm and you measure 25mm, you need to recalculate your steps per mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also for your first layer, make sure it is not being smushed to the build plate. You want it to be flattened a little to provide good adhesion but not too close to the build plate where it would constrict the nozzle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps, and good luck on your prints. May you never have to deal with thermal runaway error :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8725" LastEditorUserId="8725" LastEditDate="2017-10-19T19:12:39.947" LastActivityDate="2017-10-19T19:12:39.947" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4764" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4765" CreationDate="2017-10-18T22:13:55.230" Score="4" ViewCount="4086" Body="&lt;p&gt;Currently, 3D Builder is telling me &quot;one or more objects are invalidly defined. Click here to repair.&quot; What is this and what does it mean? When I click it, it totally messes up my model (I can't tell what it even did due to the orthogonal camera). Model stats: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Made with Sketchup&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Used STL Exporter to export it&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Last I knew what the repairing did to it was to remove my sinks and reduced them to holes in the floor&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I used ASCII encoding for my STL (I tried using Binary, but it didn't help)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I tried subdividing it but it didn't help.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Screenshots:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a picture of the model before repairing:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.mediafire.com/convkey/173c/2026o54i3pm7h1szg.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://www.mediafire.com/convkey/173c/2026o54i3pm7h1szg.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;This is a picture of the model before repairing&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a picture of the model after repairing:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.mediafire.com/convkey/cd41/uh5e97ak6j79zoyzg.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://www.mediafire.com/convkey/cd41/uh5e97ak6j79zoyzg.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;This is a picture of the model after repairing&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Just in case you wonder. I actually &lt;strong&gt;have&lt;/strong&gt; to use STL for this project)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8772" LastActivityDate="2017-10-18T22:28:39.313" Title="3D Builder is Saying &quot;One or more objects is invalidly defined&quot;" Tags="|3d-design|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4765" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4764" CreationDate="2017-10-18T22:24:57.120" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;How thick are those walls? 3D printers cannot print zero-width surfaces (and slicers cannot slice them). 3D Builder has tried to make your model printable, but obviously not in the way that you might have hoped for. You need to go back to Sketchup (or some other CAD package) and give the walls a definite thickness (and one big enough for a 3D printer to handle).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3953" LastActivityDate="2017-10-18T22:24:57.120" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4766" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4764" CreationDate="2017-10-18T22:28:39.313" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;SketchUp is notorious for creating non-manifold (non-3D-printable) models. You would be much better off to learn to use a different, better suited program for your purposes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Disregarding that aspect for the moment, your model prior to repair appears to be a general rectangular prismatic shape with dividers. Unfortunately, those dividers also appear to have zero wall thickness. One must create objects with thickness (minimum should be no lower than your nozzle diameter) in order to have that portion addressed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other views of the object may confirm this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Back to the first reference, even a program as simple as &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.tinkercad.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;TinkerCAD&lt;/a&gt; will give you SketchUp simplicity with a much smaller chance of this sort of failure. For more advanced model creation with parameters, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.autodesk.com/products/fusion-360/overview&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Fusion 360&lt;/a&gt; offers hobbyist free license. I'm also quite fond of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.openscad.org/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;OpenSCAD&lt;/a&gt; ( also free ) for parameter-based model creation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastActivityDate="2017-10-18T22:28:39.313" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4767" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4762" CreationDate="2017-10-18T23:19:21.250" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Those wavy lines could be artefacts caused by closely-spaced infill, but they could also be resonance patterns caused by noisy stepper motors and over-tight belts. Since you have said that you have your belts nice and tight, I would suggest reducing the tension on them and see what happens. I know that some pundits say that it is not possible to have timing belts too tight, but I disagree with that. Belts should obviously be tight enough to eliminate free play in the system, and you may have a lot of latitude in the tensions that you can use, but if you make them drum-tight, they will transmit motor vibrations very effectively to the build plate (and onto your models).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your stepper motors are noisy, you may want to invest in some vibration dampers. They can reduce noise and vibration significantly. Another solution would be to use more sophisticated stepper motor drivers, such as the TMC2100.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://reprap.org/wiki/TMC2100&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;RepRapWiki: TMC2100&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3953" LastEditorUserId="3953" LastEditDate="2017-10-18T23:30:00.530" LastActivityDate="2017-10-18T23:30:00.530" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4770" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4772" CreationDate="2017-10-19T10:34:00.163" Score="0" ViewCount="610" Body="&lt;p&gt;My processor is running at 4.70 GHz and has 8 cores.  I also have 32GB RAM. I have a USB 3.0 and a USB 3.1 xHCI hub, and Nvidia 1700 graphics card. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I use the Kinect v2 and the adapter to scan rooms, and objects, quickly, without trouble with the USB?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8671" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-04-19T11:03:51.577" LastActivityDate="2018-04-19T11:03:51.577" Title="Scanning 3D with a Kinect v2 on AMD Ryzen 7?" Tags="|scanning|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2017-10-24T10:23:23.303" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4771" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4773" CreationDate="2017-10-19T16:57:45.853" Score="1" ViewCount="107" Body="&lt;p&gt;So there is a company called impossible objects that use CBAM technology witch the description can be found here &lt;a href=&quot;http://impossible-objects.com/technology/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://impossible-objects.com/technology/&lt;/a&gt; I am pretty sure that they are the only ones using this process, I want to know why.  CBAM makes stronger material out of carbon fiber in a very sophisticated process stronger than FDM(Fused Deposition Modeling). This is interesting and I want to know why. I understand the process but not the pros and cons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8786" LastActivityDate="2017-10-19T19:13:38.703" Title="How is FDM Better than CBAM?" Tags="|fdm|carbon|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4772" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4770" CreationDate="2017-10-19T19:01:03.060" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;In short with the hardware you have it should be no problem. In actuality your specific setup, how you move the scanner, how stable is the scanner, what software you are using, and how you've calibrated the kinect will most likely have the largest impact on the quality, and speed in which you can scan.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5135" LastActivityDate="2017-10-19T19:01:03.060" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4773" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4771" CreationDate="2017-10-19T19:13:38.703" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well the CBAM stuff is SUPER new, requires a lot more work done by hand (currently), and is going to be WAY expensive compared to widely used FDM machines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Seems to me like a carbon fiber mixed filament is a cheaper way to go, with a possible annealing process to get the tensile strength up post-print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Try locating a CBAM printer for $200! Maybe if the process becomes quicker, and the machines/materials cheaper to purchase, we could be using this method more in the future. I feel that we will likely advance the materials we have with FDM much faster than this other process would catch on and become affordable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8768" LastActivityDate="2017-10-19T19:13:38.703" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4774" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4775" CreationDate="2017-10-20T02:19:53.487" Score="5" ViewCount="1078" Body="&lt;p&gt;My first layer is suddenly not sticking for every new print I'm trying. When it lays down the first layer it has this weird jaggedness to it, doesn't firmly stick to the plate, and gets dragged by the nozzle. I've printed previously successful prints without an issue, but any new print I export from Cura is having this issue. I'm using the same profile that I do for the previously successful ones. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My relevant print settings are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Material: PLA&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Layer height: .2mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hotend: 205c&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Plate: 60c&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fan cooling: 50%&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Speed: 60mm/s&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0EOPd.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0EOPd.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Problem print&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8792" LastActivityDate="2017-10-21T08:37:07.860" Title="Prusa i3 - First layer does not stick and looks jagged" Tags="|prusa-i3|ultimaker-cura|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4775" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4774" CreationDate="2017-10-20T08:13:27.770" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your nozzle is too far from the build plate. You should make some changes to bring the nozzle closer to the build plate for the first layer. There are a number of possibilities for doing this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Adjust the Z-axis endstop&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Loosen the bed leveling screws&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Add an offset in G-code&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This will squish the plastic down more, enabling it to stick to the build plate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With solution (3), you have to be careful that you don't crash into the endstop. This solution works best if your printer homes towards max (and not min) or if you have non-mechanical (hall or optical) endstops.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastEditorUserId="26" LastEditDate="2017-10-21T08:37:07.860" LastActivityDate="2017-10-21T08:37:07.860" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4776" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3922" CreationDate="2017-10-20T22:49:31.740" Score="-3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Why not try using PVA(Polyvinyl alcohol) for support material.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I use it for my support material with PLA, and it dissolves in water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;here is a link to some on Amazon.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://smile.amazon.com/eSUN-1-75mm-filament-natural-0-5kg/dp/B00MVIQASU/ref=sr_1_3?s=industrial&amp;amp;ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1508539512&amp;amp;sr=1-3&amp;amp;keywords=PVA&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://smile.amazon.com/eSUN-1-75mm-filament-natural-0-5kg/dp/B00MVIQASU/ref=sr_1_3?s=industrial&amp;amp;ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1508539512&amp;amp;sr=1-3&amp;amp;keywords=PVA&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8442" LastActivityDate="2017-10-20T22:49:31.740" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4777" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3922" CreationDate="2017-10-20T23:21:02.550" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Having a bit more experience since my comment post above, I can offer up a possible solution. If your printer is able to print ABS, it works great with HIPS as support material. I've been printing boatloads of ABS models. When support is needed, the HIPS supports will bond reasonably well to the ABS, but when cooled, flick off with a sharp pointed instrument such as a razor knife point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As an additional reference, a good bond to the print bed is required for both ABS and HIPS and if your slicer allows support density adjustment, increase the support in that manner. My slicer (Simplify3D) would print an accordian type of support unless instructed otherwise. I set up for alternating 45° patterns making a denser but also more vertically rigid structure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you cannot print ABS, PLA and PVA as Ogre55 suggests is about your only option. I see from the 'net that the SpiderBot Pro supports ABS, which implies the basic version might not have a heated bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastActivityDate="2017-10-20T23:21:02.550" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4778" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4789" CreationDate="2017-10-21T11:01:56.663" Score="4" ViewCount="2059" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently switched to a RAMPS 1.4 on an Arduino Mega 2560.&#xA;Ever since I have extruder temperature swings a couple of minutes into the print, but it looks like a problem reading the temp rather than actual fluctuations in the temperature (as can be seen in the attached pic).&#xA;Also, I've noticed that the MOSFET is getting really hot when I heat the heated bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the problem and how can I fix it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QETof.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QETof.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8800" LastEditorUserId="8800" LastEditDate="2017-10-21T12:26:29.460" LastActivityDate="2021-02-24T03:10:55.193" Title="Temperature problems after switching to RAMPS 1.4" Tags="|ramps-1.4|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4779" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4778" CreationDate="2017-10-21T16:38:08.450" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;For the really hot mosfet I would say it might be a good idea to get one of those external mosfet module boards. It just seems like a good idea to me, to not have the huge current of the bed-heater flowing through the ramps board. And for the thermistor wires, do you have them twisted together? If not, try tightly twisting the pair (of + &amp;amp; -) together to ensure there is no interference from other signals. Careful not to put stress on where the wires are attached to the actual thermistor-head. Honestly, all of your wiring should be in twisted-pair configuration. &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Twisted_pair&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Twisted_pair&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8802" LastActivityDate="2017-10-21T16:38:08.450" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4780" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3732" CreationDate="2017-10-22T08:06:56.347" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can split STL files in Cura 2.4&#xA;Just open your STL file in Cura and right click it.&#xA;Select &quot;Split object into parts&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8807" LastActivityDate="2017-10-22T08:06:56.347" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4781" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4785" CreationDate="2017-10-23T03:18:07.403" Score="1" ViewCount="2120" Body="&lt;p&gt;Could I 3D model and print a working airbrush in&#xA;PLA?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8814" LastActivityDate="2017-10-23T18:15:35.537" Title="Could I 3D print an airbrush?" Tags="|3d-models|pla|3d-design|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2017-11-08T12:01:06.997" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4782" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4664" CreationDate="2017-10-23T05:51:28.237" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been able to get rafts that peel off by editing the g-code after the raft has finished and adding an M104 set temperature command telling my printer to cool the nozzle down to about 40 degrees and then another M104 command to tell the nozzle to heat back up again. This gives the raft enough time to cool and then the raft doesn't weld to the rest of the print. If you are using a heated bed I would suggest trying the M190 command and turning that off after the raft and then back on after the first layer as well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1476" LastActivityDate="2017-10-23T05:51:28.237" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4783" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4643" CreationDate="2017-10-23T15:19:20.307" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;When you are saving a CAD file to STL format to print, there are options on resolution. Coarse and Fine. Basically coarse would give that ribbed/flats effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am not sure what CAD package its created but normally all the CAD packages allow the user to specify the deviation about from a design curve.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AmEjO.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AmEjO.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8676" LastEditorUserId="9084" LastEditDate="2017-11-23T20:10:33.760" LastActivityDate="2017-11-23T20:10:33.760" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4784" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4787" CreationDate="2017-10-23T18:13:46.473" Score="0" ViewCount="135" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I've seen some very good design software, but almost all of it is very expensive. I'm just wondering if there's a good cheap design software out there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8819" LastEditorUserId="8819" LastEditDate="2017-10-23T18:24:06.330" LastActivityDate="2017-10-23T19:27:36.273" Title="Good Designing Software for cheap" Tags="|software|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2017-11-08T11:57:13.170" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4785" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4781" CreationDate="2017-10-23T18:15:35.537" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The problem with this I see is that the PLA takes and holds paint super well. I have painted it with acrylic a lot and it works great for models you want painted after printing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know next to nothing about airbrushing, but it seems to me like keeping a printed airbrush clean for re-use would be a big pain. It looks like they make the pro airbrushes with some kind of stainless steel most likely for the non-sticking purposes of re-use, which PLA just won't have.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That being said, don't be afraid to model it and try! I would make a suggestion that you switch to ABS and then do a vapor bath on the result to smooth out the material and possibly make it easier to clean excess paint out of.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8768" LastActivityDate="2017-10-23T18:15:35.537" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4786" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4784" CreationDate="2017-10-23T19:21:43.430" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Try Fusion 360. It's free for educators, students, enthusiasts and start-ups. It's not 100% intuitive, but once you learn the basics, it probably has all the facilities that you will ever need for mechanical design.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3953" LastActivityDate="2017-10-23T19:21:43.430" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4787" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4784" CreationDate="2017-10-23T19:27:36.273" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;OnShape is free for students and the public and is very similar to Fusion 360.  It works online on almost any device and was built by some of the engineers from Solidworks.  Free accounts can not have any private documents so anyone can see your design.  If you know how to use Solidworks/Inventor you will be able to pickup Fusion 360/OnShape very quickly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;OpenSCAD is also free but works through its own programming language.  It requires a strong math background and some understanding of programming to use as it has no GUI tools.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="233" LastActivityDate="2017-10-23T19:27:36.273" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4789" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4778" CreationDate="2017-10-24T19:05:46.420" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;For the overheating, you may need to turn the juice down a little on your Power Supply. Typically, there is a potentiometer inside that trims the voltage level coming from there. Some things can heat up if it's over-volting and needing to drop more voltage for the board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the temperature reading stuff, make sure the thermistor is plugged in all way and not possibly dangling near the hot-end block. I have had that happen before and it will report improper temperatures as it goes along, and often results in the hot-end getting too hot and messing with the filament. If it's properly secured it might be just crappy or broken in some other way and you would need to replace it. It's reasonable practice to have a few extra thermistors lying around as having them go out at lousy times will bum you out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8768" LastActivityDate="2017-10-24T19:05:46.420" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4790" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4551" CreationDate="2017-10-25T03:14:22.983" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Its very likely the polyfuse is bad. In an ideal printer, given the heater cores and great deal of power, polyfuses are some of the worst things you can use. Polyfuses have a tendency to fail in &quot;interesting&quot; ways, especially around their trigger amperage. Fire is one of those failure modes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not only that, but if this is a noname chinese RAMPS 1.4, then you're also looking at 1/2 oz pour (it should be 1 oz or more for power traces) for the circuit board and cheaping on everything possible. I've a few boards like this that are a firetrap, along with a badly poured PCB heated bed. In that case, I would consider getting a better controller. If that's outside of your budget there is another way to do this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unsolder the polyfuses and put wire between them. Normally, this is &lt;strong&gt;unprotecting&lt;/strong&gt; yourself. But we're going to fix that. Head to the local automotive shop and get yourself inline fuses (think of 2 wires with a fuse in a pill shaped device). You want a 5A and a 11A fuse. Or if you did the math and know better, get the fuses you calculated for. Now, make sure they're inline with the + side of the power.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You now have external fuses that you know are rated for the appropriate amperage, unlike polyfuses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8827" LastActivityDate="2017-10-25T03:14:22.983" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4791" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4706" CreationDate="2017-10-25T03:26:46.597" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is an ugly question, and an ugly answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Nail polish doesn't come with an ingredient list. Nor are there MSDS's available to refer to what solvents are in it. So it's &quot;unknown 1&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Most every filament company will not give you a list of compounds for colorants or plasticizers used. MSDS is off the table. So, even though we do know what PLA and ABS is inherently, we have no clue about the other ingredients used to make your particular filament. This is &quot;unknown 2&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What both of these comes down to is a very nasty situation indeed. We know for a fact that ABS dissolves into acetone. PLA does not.... Except we have had reports of PLA that does. When we look further into those responses, and ask them to do a burn test, they smell popcorn and something acrid (ABS). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This guarantees unless we have virgin material and MSDS in hand, you only have a close guess at what material you have. And that's to say nothing about &quot;nail polish&quot;, and its components.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are also other solvents that will dissolve PLA. MakerBot back before they turned evil, noted a solution called Beta Solution (90% isopropyl alcohol, 9% KOH, 1% Al(OH)3  ). This stuff is noted for dissolving PLA and leaving ABS intact.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Long story short: &quot;Could Nail Polish damage pure PLA?&quot; We can't guarantee purity of PLA, we can't guarantee contents of nail polish's solvents. The only answer is to print a swatch and test yourself. Calibration cubes are quick and easy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8827" LastActivityDate="2017-10-25T03:26:46.597" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4792" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4817" CreationDate="2017-10-25T06:50:39.283" Score="4" ViewCount="556" Body="&lt;p&gt;How can I center a model at the middle of the printing area of the printer when creating a g-code with CuraEngine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any parameters I can add to &lt;code&gt;ultimaker2.def.json&lt;/code&gt; to achieve this?&#xA;Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8762" LastActivityDate="2018-04-24T18:58:56.693" Title="Centering model with CuraEngine when creating g-code?" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|g-code|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4794" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-10-25T09:45:31.790" Score="3" ViewCount="897" Body="&lt;p&gt;When i am creating g file with Cura, it always flattens the first layer of round edges touching the plate. Is problem Cura or is there any setting that i can solve this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks,&#xA;Veysel :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hUavx.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hUavx.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;This is a sample&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8828" LastActivityDate="2017-10-25T13:18:31.517" Title="Why Cura flattens first layer of round objects?" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|g-code|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4795" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4794" CreationDate="2017-10-25T10:13:28.447" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;All models must be sliced horizontally into layers in order to be printed, and each layer is flat. That is simply the bottom layer. Since you are printing a cylinder, you could always rotate it by 90 degrees, and stand it on its end (before you slice it, naturally). You should always consider the best orientation for printing any model.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, if you print a cylinder on its side, the slicer will need to generate a lot of support structures to support the lower curved surfaces. By printing a cylinder on its end, no support should be required.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3953" LastEditorUserId="3953" LastEditDate="2017-10-25T13:18:31.517" LastActivityDate="2017-10-25T13:18:31.517" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4797" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4778" CreationDate="2017-10-25T11:21:56.060" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I saw that you said you switched to a RAMPS 1.4 . I'll warn you that the componetry for the cheap $20 RAMPS 1.4's have significant issues, including under-speccing parts, using wrong part, not including enough copper for traces on the boards, and other quality concerns that can equal &quot;FIRE&quot; (not a euphemism). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You've noticed temperature fluctuations as well, as seen in the graph. This could be the result of a few different things.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You din't PID tune the Hotend. Read &lt;a href=&quot;http://reprap.org/wiki/PID_Tuning&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;M303&lt;/a&gt; for the full way to do this. Then either using EEPROM or by compiling the Kp, Ki, Kd variables, and store them in your configuration.h (assuming you're using Marlin).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Your thermistor is loose. When it heats, it loosens and creates a 'not great' contact against the hotend, giving spotty results.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;HOWEVER&lt;/strong&gt; the really concerning thing is that the power MOSFET isn't specced high enough for you board. If you've noticed it very hot to the touch, and also collaborated by a really 'squirrely' heated bed graph, then you have some significant problems with this part. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a solution. But you ever hear the adage &quot;If you buy cheap, prepare to buy thrice.&quot; ? It applies in your situation. Because in order to route around the crappy MOSFET, you need an external MOSFET board. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprint.wiki/reprap/electronics/heatbed_mosfet&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;THIS&lt;/a&gt; is a good place to see what part I'm talking about, common places to buy them (Amazon and eBay are good for quicker, and Aliexpress is cheaper and longer). The aforementioned link also includes wiring diagrams and setup. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, it looks like a set of problems, with only 1 actually costing money. And ideally, those MOSFET boards are around $10 from Amazon(Prime), or up to $20 for the really nice TriGorilla ones. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;IF/WHEN you buy a Power MOSFET board&lt;/strong&gt;, make sure to EXCEED the amount of watts when compared to your heating solution. If you're using 12v, then you need an ohmmeter to get the resistance of the board. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Solve for amps:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt; Amperage = volts/resistance&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then once you have amps, take:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt; amps*volts = watts  &#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is how much watts your heated bed uses. &lt;strong&gt;MAKE SURE TO EXCEED THIS BY 10%&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8827" LastActivityDate="2017-10-25T11:21:56.060" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4798" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4792" CreationDate="2017-10-25T13:52:27.727" Score="-3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If this is over the commandline tool &quot;CuraEngine&quot;, then you will have to read the sourcecode. According to the &lt;a href=&quot;https://ultimaker.com/en/community/4337-doc-of-curaengine&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Author&lt;/a&gt;, 'Nope. Only documentation there is in the code, readme and my head.' (cringe!).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're talking of the GUI program, then right click and click &quot;Center&quot;. But this requires GUI usage. Not so nice if you want to automate using curaengine as your slicer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8827" LastActivityDate="2017-10-25T13:52:27.727" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4799" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-10-25T14:48:03.300" Score="2" ViewCount="98" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I started using Cura a few weeks ago, and when I print it goes to 204 Celsius instead of 200. It doesn't really affect my print quality but I just want to know if there's a fix for it. My printer is a Da Vinci Jr 1.0.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8819" LastActivityDate="2017-11-10T12:56:15.770" Title="Cura going to 204C instead of 200C" Tags="|print-quality|software|ultimaker-cura|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4801" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="256" CreationDate="2017-10-25T15:00:45.797" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I currently use the 60/40 recycling mix ratio and find that it works very well.  I do however wonder if there is an even more effective ratio in order to recycle used powder.  I currently discard all &quot;cake&quot; powder (powder remaining in the build piston) and am only &quot;recycling&quot; the push off powder.  I found this paper but it's unclear if they are reusing just the push off or both push off and cake.  Any further opinions/ideas would be greatly appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.internationaljournalssrg.org/IJME/2015/Volume2-Issue7/IJME-V2I7P106.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.internationaljournalssrg.org/IJME/2015/Volume2-Issue7/IJME-V2I7P106.pdf&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8833" LastActivityDate="2017-10-25T15:00:45.797" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4803" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4799" CreationDate="2017-10-25T16:49:24.163" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;That's called PID overshoot. All control loops have varying types of outliers like this. Sometimes, you can't overshoot, sometimes you cant undershoot. But it's a remnant of the math. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The solution here, is to &lt;a href=&quot;http://reprap.org/wiki/PID_Tuning&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;PID Tune&lt;/a&gt;. Once you get an established Kp Ki and Kd constants, then you can either save it to eeprom or you can recompile your firmware with this change.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's pretty common, especially if you have different hotends without known profiles. PID tuning also works on heated beds as well. But usually those use what's called &lt;a href=&quot;http://reprap.org/wiki/ExtruderIO#Bang-bang_control&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Bang-bang&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8827" LastActivityDate="2017-10-25T16:49:24.163" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4804" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4805" CreationDate="2017-10-25T18:31:24.267" Score="4" ViewCount="1517" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am re-writing this question because, well, it needs to be updated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have the Anet A6, but in a general sense of things, what kind of threads can I produce before it no longer works? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8835" LastEditorUserId="8835" LastEditDate="2018-01-26T20:29:39.050" LastActivityDate="2022-08-23T08:47:30.760" Title="Printing threads" Tags="|print-quality|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4805" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4804" CreationDate="2017-10-25T18:50:22.180" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;This depends on the nozzle diameter, the layer thickness, and the material. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've made very good M8 and acceptable M6 threads (nut and bolt) at 0.2mm layers with a 0.5mm nozzle, out of ABS, and also out of PETG. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4922" LastActivityDate="2017-10-25T18:50:22.180" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4806" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4747" CreationDate="2017-10-25T20:31:39.860" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I love me a challenge so I just hacked this together: (a half waiting for mirror)&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Z8Skx.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Z8Skx.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;As for strategy, I simply used the line tool to do a basic shape and then went to town with constraints and dimensions to see what I end up with. Can't fail. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Clearly, you're missing information to constraint the sketch fully, but if you have the extrusions and the machine, you could just print a few tests to guess the missing values. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Like precise position of the circles, of the 20x40 rectangle...)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can download/ view my fusion model here: &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://a360.co/2gJsdxB&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://a360.co/2gJsdxB&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3796" LastActivityDate="2017-10-25T20:31:39.860" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4807" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4808" CreationDate="2017-10-25T21:35:22.117" Score="3" ViewCount="266" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cura is slicing my object (a gear with text) with a partial top layer, and I believe it has to do with layer height and rounding issues. I have been able to solve this at specific heights 10-14mm using a layer height of 0.25 mm, however other heights will cause this issue to arise again. There must be a solution to this that doesn't require the user to constantly be adjusting layer height and object height in order to resolve what I perceive to be a rounding issue. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is the model:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://filebin.ca/3f2g2s0dklzR/hackEly_v1.0_joined_text_2.stl&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://filebin.ca/3f2g2s0dklzR/hackEly_v1.0_joined_text_2.stl&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are my settings:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EBRnV.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EBRnV.png&quot; alt=&quot;Settings 1&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7oZZY.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7oZZY.png&quot; alt=&quot;Settings 2&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is the model at a height of 10 mm:&#xA;Note the diagonal line, this is the line between two layers.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hz3gz.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hz3gz.png&quot; alt=&quot;Object 10mm&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is the model at a height of 13 mm:&#xA;Note the diagonal line again, and how it is farther to the right than the 10mm height view.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8SLTX.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8SLTX.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't believe that this is not a non-manifold issue. I have also tested this using a gear without text.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Like I mentioned, I can get rid of that layer division at certain layer heights and object heights (e.g. 0.25mm layer height), but I would like to find out how to get rid of this issue &lt;em&gt;regardless of object/layer height&lt;/em&gt;. Thank you for your help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8836" LastActivityDate="2017-10-26T17:19:00.417" Title="Layer height issues creating partial top layer" Tags="|3d-models|ultimaker-cura|slicing|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4808" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4807" CreationDate="2017-10-25T21:56:50.637" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your model isn't perfect. I took it into Windows 10 3D Builder for simplicity. I kept clicking the &quot;Mirror&quot; function and noticed as it basically flipped there is some slight movement. I measured some points from bottom to top and noticed some differences. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Try to take your model into some software to fix/flatten it. Or recreate it making sure its perfectly flat on both sides. It is definitely not your Cura software.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8725" LastActivityDate="2017-10-25T21:56:50.637" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4809" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4867" CreationDate="2017-10-25T22:57:43.777" Score="0" ViewCount="1337" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have built a 3D printer from salvaged/purchased parts. I am using an Arduino Uno and three easy driver stepper drivers with 3 CD-ROMs drives and a PC power unit. I ordered a 3D pen and have it mounted with a transistor to switch it on/off. Everything works but when I try to run code that I got from makercam.com it seems like it wants to fill in the shape rather than build up. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I followed this tutorial &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/anIy6eb1fW0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;YouTube - How To Make A Cheap 3D Printer&lt;/a&gt; and after modifying the G-code I am unable to get any successful prints.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LgHI1.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Bad prints&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LgHI1.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Bad prints&quot; title=&quot;Bad prints&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8837" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-07-30T15:47:58.050" LastActivityDate="2018-07-30T15:47:58.050" Title="How to modify G-code or a better place to get it" Tags="|g-code|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2017-11-12T04:56:26.877" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4810" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4807" CreationDate="2017-10-25T23:56:37.420" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Even though you've selected an answer, here's another viewpoint. Ignoring the brim that I've added by default via my slicer, you can see the first few layers are not complete. This indicates a model that's a fraction of a degree off-plane. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2VRCT.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2VRCT.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;slanted model image&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any number of methods can be used to correct this. Meshmixer has a great &quot;align&quot; function in the edit menu which will drop it on the bed. My slicer, S3D will work in that respect with &quot;Place surface on bed&quot; or some such terms.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The image below represents the result of using Align in Meshmixer, Inspector (repair all) and export. The STL file imported to S3D presented exactly the same image on the first layer as in the image above. When I used &quot;Place surface on bed and selected the horizontal cross-member as the reference surface, the first layer result is this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/goSvf.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/goSvf.png&quot; alt=&quot;first layer after repair&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The slicer completed the imaging with this result, clearly with no diagonal artifacts:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kAlU3.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kAlU3.png&quot; alt=&quot;last layer&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastEditorUserId="854" LastEditDate="2017-10-26T17:19:00.417" LastActivityDate="2017-10-26T17:19:00.417" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4811" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4827" CreationDate="2017-10-26T01:27:47.787" Score="2" ViewCount="113" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ok so i have built a 3d printer from old cd rom drives. Before installing the 3d pen(extruder/hotend) i used www.makercam.com to export i file containing a star. With a marker attached the machone successfully drew a star. Now i have the 3d pen but using makercam i am not having any luck. Is there a better way to generate files for my new toy?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8837" LastActivityDate="2017-10-29T02:04:08.440" Title="What is the best free source for generating g-code" Tags="|diy-3d-printer|g-code|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4813" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4804" CreationDate="2017-10-26T02:34:04.063" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have found that I get slightly different results with different printers and different plastics and print temperatures. For doing parts like nuts and bolts you will probably have to print several prototype parts once you get your printer to get the setting and tolerances right, once you get a print. But just decreasing the layer height and getting the nozzle temp and cooling right should let you get some working parts.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WUcio.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WUcio.png&quot; alt=&quot;Slope failure&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA; You can get the sloped surfaces the still look ok but are not dimensional accurate with to high an angle. I find if is easiest to print and then test and then adjust the tolerances on the design.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rvkGA.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rvkGA.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1476" LastActivityDate="2017-10-26T02:34:04.063" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4814" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-10-26T06:14:27.227" Score="6" ViewCount="2001" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there any software/methods to automatically splice objects into multiple pieces sort of like a jig saw puzzle so that I can combine them together and bypass the build plate size limit?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As an example I have this 2D image that I want to print out but my printers size limit is roughly the size of the blue &quot;squares.&quot; It's pretty tedious and time consuming to do this manually. Also, any tips on getting seamless lines or proper alignment when gluing these pieces together are appreciated.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uw7Kg.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uw7Kg.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8839" LastActivityDate="2018-11-04T17:00:32.077" Title="Printing Object in multiple parts" Tags="|3d-design|abs|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4815" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4286" CreationDate="2017-10-26T08:57:52.797" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;For the sake of the few pennies, I'd buy the threaded tube with the PTFE already in from any internet auction site.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6217" LastActivityDate="2017-10-26T08:57:52.797" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4816" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4207" CreationDate="2017-10-26T09:03:53.873" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Try winding the Z axis all the up and down a few times using the front panel controls. Does it still go out of alignment? Is it out of alignment at the top? Does it come back into alignment when you wind it back down?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The principle is: if you have a dodgy motor drive chip, or a mechanical fault, it will skip some steps on the way up and the two motors will be out of synch. Then, on the way back down, it will skip an (approximately equal) number of steps and the motors will return to something resembling similar places.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6217" LastActivityDate="2017-10-26T09:03:53.873" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4817" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4792" CreationDate="2017-10-26T15:10:33.797" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Found a solution.&#xA;This need to be applied under &lt;code&gt;&quot;settings&quot;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;&quot;command_line_settings&quot;: {&#xA;    &quot;label&quot;: &quot;Command Line Settings&quot;,&#xA;    &quot;description&quot;: &quot;Settings which are only used if CuraEngine isn't called from the Cura frontend.&quot;,&#xA;    &quot;type&quot;: &quot;category&quot;,&#xA;    &quot;enabled&quot;: true,&#xA;    &quot;children&quot;: {&#xA;        &quot;center_object&quot;: {&#xA;        &quot;description&quot;: &quot;Whether to center the object on the middle of the build platform (0,0), instead of using the coordinate system in which the object was saved.&quot;,&#xA;            &quot;type&quot;: &quot;bool&quot;,&#xA;            &quot;label&quot;: &quot;Center object&quot;,&#xA;            &quot;default_value&quot;: true,&#xA;            &quot;enabled&quot;: true&#xA;        }&#xA;    }&#xA;}&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8762" LastActivityDate="2017-10-26T15:10:33.797" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4818" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4207" CreationDate="2017-10-27T10:15:52.663" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;My guess is your Z guides are not strictly parallel because there's no instruction how to install X guides correctly. When you install X guides, you can easily make horizontal distance between two Z-mounts either too small or too large, which puts extra stress on one of the Z motors. Move your extruder to home position, measure distance between bottom ends of Z threaded rods and between top ends, and try to adjust right Z-mount position on X guides so that these two distances become equal. Use hammer, but be accurate with plastic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8847" LastActivityDate="2017-10-27T10:15:52.663" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4819" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4820" CreationDate="2017-10-28T00:46:40.167" Score="3" ViewCount="714" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 3D printer that I built using CD-ROM drives. It's all set and ready to go but when I generate &lt;code&gt;.stl&lt;/code&gt; or &lt;code&gt;.obj&lt;/code&gt; files my G-code sender program cannot load it. I have found that Slic3r will export the &lt;code&gt;.stl&lt;/code&gt; into G-code but it has the option of changing the &lt;em&gt;G-code flavour&lt;/em&gt;, or &lt;em&gt;firmware&lt;/em&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My machine is running from an Arduino Uno with Grbl v0.8. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the question is, which firmware setting would be appropriate for my machine that would require the least amount of editing before I can print?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8837" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-05-26T19:45:06.150" LastActivityDate="2018-05-26T19:49:43.520" Title="Which firmware to use on printer settings for DIY printer" Tags="|diy-3d-printer|slic3r|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4820" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4819" CreationDate="2017-10-28T07:34:07.107" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Unless you can find a slicer that explicitly supports grbl, you will need to check the G-code specification and see which common flavour is closest to what grbl supports. The RepRap Wiki includes grbl in it's compatibility chart, but it has question marks against a lot of entries for grbl.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other alternative is to slice a very simple model and see what commands are issued by the slicer, and whether they are supported by grbl.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that there is a question as to whether grbl supports FDM printing technology, i.e. 3D printers that use filament. Most slicers are designed to work with FDM printers, and will expect to be controlling at least one extruder. If your printer does not have an extruder that is controlled via G-code, you may encounter real difficulties generating G-code for it using commonly-available slicers. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://reprap.org/wiki/G-code&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;RepRap Wiki: G-code&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3953" LastEditorUserId="3953" LastEditDate="2017-10-28T08:17:34.580" LastActivityDate="2017-10-28T08:17:34.580" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4821" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3507" CreationDate="2017-10-28T14:45:03.287" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;PLA itself falls in the category of non-conductors, with a resistivity (&lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$\rho=R\frac A l=\frac 1 \sigma$&lt;/span&gt;) in the order of &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$10^{16}\ \Omega \text m$&lt;/span&gt; (see &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&amp;amp;rct=j&amp;amp;q=&amp;amp;esrc=s&amp;amp;source=web&amp;amp;cd=5&amp;amp;ved=0ahUKEwiYpKTSw5PXAhXRKFAKHemUCsgQFghUMAQ&amp;amp;url=http%3A%2F%2Fen.www.ichp.pl%2Fattach.php%3Fid%3D1166&amp;amp;usg=AOvVaw2BgoK845Z6hvWEcIrRo6_x&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;), similar to other plastics. Following image gives an idea of the values of resistivity for usual conductors and isolators, insulating materials have resistivity greater than &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$10^9\ \Omega\text m$&lt;/span&gt;, conductors have it smaller than &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$100\ \Omega \text m$&lt;/span&gt; (copper is about &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$10^{-8} \ \Omega \text m$&lt;/span&gt;):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yUUcG.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yUUcG.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, PLA can be mixed with some amounts of a conductor as graphite, making the filament a conductive material (not as good as, by example, copper). This filament can be used to create some kinds of electric circuits.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other additions (coloring, ...) could also change slightly its properties.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously, if PLA reaches glass transition temperature or melting point, holes can appear in the surface, breaking insulation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8103" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2020-09-20T20:27:12.850" LastActivityDate="2020-09-20T20:27:12.850" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4822" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-10-28T17:07:22.887" Score="7" ViewCount="13342" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've successfully installed &lt;code&gt;mjpg-streamer-experimental&lt;/code&gt; from &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/jacksonliam&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;jacksonliam&lt;/a&gt;/&lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/jacksonliam/mjpg-streamer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;mjpg-streamer&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I just can't figure out how to set the parameter I need in order to rotate my camera 180 degrees (I have my webcam mounted upside down for a custom mount I made).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm using a Logitech C270. I've been searching online for hours for a solution to this issue and just can't find what I'm looking for. Doesn't help that I'm not very proficient when it comes to this stuff.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I run the command suggested in GiF's &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/4823/4762&quot;&gt;answer&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;mjpg_streamer -i 'input_uvc.so -rot 180'&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I get the following error:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt; libv4l2: error setting pixformat: Device or resource busy Unable to set format: 1196444237 res: 640x480 Init v4L2 failed !! exit fatal i: init_VideoIn failed &#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I seem to get that error when setting any parameters. I'm running Octoprint, if that makes any difference. There doesn't seem to be a rotate option in Octoprint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Information just seems extremely sparse on this particular fork of mjpg-streamer. Searching for that error just gets me a bunch of people that have non-working webcams while mine works perfectly, I just need to rotate it 180 degrees.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would &lt;em&gt;really&lt;/em&gt; appreciate some help!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8862" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2021-07-14T08:04:52.983" LastActivityDate="2021-07-14T08:04:52.983" Title="How to rotate camera using mjpg-streamer-experimental?" Tags="|octoprint|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4823" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4822" CreationDate="2017-10-28T20:36:23.680" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit: Having now installed Octopi myself, I have found that they made it easy to rotate the image right from the interface. If you open the &amp;quot;Settings&amp;quot; and look under &amp;quot;Webcam &amp;amp; Timelapse&amp;quot;, there are settings for flipping the image horizontally or vertically and for rotating 90 degrees.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a few ways to rotate the image of which I am aware. You can do it via the input plugin, the client, or post-processing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &amp;quot;input_uvc&amp;quot; and &amp;quot;input_raspicam&amp;quot; plugins both have options to rotate the image. If you are using one of these plugins see the documentation at &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/jacksonliam/mjpg-streamer/blob/master/mjpg-streamer-experimental/plugins/input_uvc/README.md&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;input_uvc&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/jacksonliam/mjpg-streamer/blob/master/mjpg-streamer-experimental/plugins/input_raspicam/README.md&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;input_raspicam&lt;/a&gt; (it is worth noting that the input options may not be supported by all cameras). You should be able to run the command like the following to get a stream that is rotated 180 degrees:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;mjpg_streamer -i 'input_uvc.so -rot 180'&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure how you are handling the stream, but it is possible that your client can perform the rotation. For example, if you are using VLC you can set the angle of rotation by doing something like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Open the “Tools” menu and select “Effects and Filters”&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In the “Adjustments and Effects” window, on the “Video Effects” tab, select the “Transform” check box&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Select a rotation from the dropdown menu and then click “Close”.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, if you are saving the stream and are only concerned with rotating it afterwards, you can post-process it with a utility like &lt;code&gt;ffmpeg&lt;/code&gt;. See this &lt;a href=&quot;https://superuser.com/questions/578321/how-to-rotate-a-video-180-with-ffmpeg&quot;&gt;post&lt;/a&gt; as an example and look for &amp;quot;Rotate&amp;quot; in the accepted answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your stream is being rendered via a browser you may be able to add some CSS3 formatting to the video element. For example, you could add an ID of &lt;code&gt;videoElement&lt;/code&gt; to the stream and then add the following to your CSS:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt; #videoElement {&#xA;    transform: rotateZ(180deg);&#xA;    -webkit-transform:rotateZ(180deg); /* Safari and Chrome */&#xA;    -moz-transform:rotateZ(180deg); /* Firefox */ &#xA;}&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With respect to Octoprint, it appears that Octoprint is an HTML interface, so you could probably edit the markup to use CSS3's transform &lt;code&gt;rotateX&lt;/code&gt;. That would rotate the image at the client end (browser). BTW, googling for your error code did have some potentially useful information as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8864" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2021-07-14T07:26:01.770" LastActivityDate="2021-07-14T07:26:01.770" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4824" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4825" CreationDate="2017-10-29T01:00:22.167" Score="3" ViewCount="1538" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am writing some G-code for my DIY 3D printer. From what I understand, &lt;code&gt;G4&lt;/code&gt; is dwell and its expressed in milliseconds. So my extruder takes about 30 seconds to heat up. Do I just type &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;G04 30000&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8837" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-05-23T06:38:34.493" LastActivityDate="2019-05-23T13:47:52.490" Title="How to express dwell time in G-code" Tags="|g-code|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4825" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4824" CreationDate="2017-10-29T01:33:32.047" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You are correct about needing to specify the dwell value in milliseconds. However, the RepRap Wiki indicates that you need to use the &lt;code&gt;Pn&lt;/code&gt; argument, and not just an unadorned number as the argument to the command. To adapt the Wiki's own example, you will need to use:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;G4 P30000&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This should cause the firmware to dwell (pause) for 30 seconds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#G4:_Dwell&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;RepRap Wiki: G4: Dwell&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3953" LastActivityDate="2017-10-29T01:33:32.047" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4826" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4828" CreationDate="2017-10-29T01:55:39.243" Score="12" ViewCount="59026" Body="&lt;p&gt;On the reprap wiki it says using Znnn it sets a new axis position.  But then it says &amp;quot;No physical motion will occur&amp;quot;. What would the line &lt;code&gt;G92 E0&lt;/code&gt; be used for?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8837" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-06-23T20:07:04.050" LastActivityDate="2020-08-10T17:27:32.547" Title="What is G92 used for in G-code" Tags="|g-code|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4827" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4811" CreationDate="2017-10-29T02:04:08.440" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The g code is generated by a program like slic3r, skeinforge or cura. These programs import a CAD model slilce it into layers and output the gcode required to print each layer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8837" LastActivityDate="2017-10-29T02:04:08.440" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4828" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4826" CreationDate="2017-10-29T02:28:35.183" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;code&gt;G92&lt;/code&gt; command is used to set the start position (origin) of one of more axes (including the current extruder) to any arbitrary value. The command &lt;code&gt;G92 E0&lt;/code&gt; is often used to perform retraction and nozzle priming. For example, the following commands are often used in start-gcode sequences (prologues) to prime the current extruder by extruding a small amount of filament:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;G92 E0     ; Reset the extruder's origin&#xA;G1 F200 E3 ; Extrude 3 millimetres of filament&#xA;G92 E0     ; Reset the extruder's origin&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#G92:_Set_Position&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;RepRap Wiki: G92: Set Position&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3953" LastEditorUserId="3953" LastEditDate="2017-10-29T02:40:59.747" LastActivityDate="2017-10-29T02:40:59.747" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4829" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-10-29T08:30:37.947" Score="2" ViewCount="151" Body="&lt;p&gt;On my Anet A8 3 printer, running Skynet. When I &lt;strong&gt;do not&lt;/strong&gt; use the &lt;code&gt;G29&lt;/code&gt; command, Auto Bed Level, the printer won't print and just extrudes plastic in mid-air. But when I do use the &lt;code&gt;G29&lt;/code&gt; command it will home and start to print but no plastic will come out. The extruder motor and the connector both work. Does anyone know what the problem might be?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is the start G-code I use:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;G28 X0 Y0  &#xA;G28 Z0  &#xA;G29  &#xA;M190 S50 ;set bed temp (wait)  &#xA;M109 S200 ;set head temp (wait)  &#xA;; ------------------------------------  &#xA;; Layer #0  &#xA;; ------------------------------------  &#xA;G21 ; mm  &#xA;G90 ; abs  &#xA;G92 E0 ; reset extr  &#xA;M106 S0  &#xA;;segType:Skirt  &#xA;G0 F4800 E-1.0000  &#xA;G0 F300 Z0.200  &#xA;G0 X110.546 Y71.485 F9000  &#xA;G0 F4800 E0.0000  &#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8613" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-07-17T00:44:51.167" LastActivityDate="2021-07-17T00:44:51.167" Title="Extruder motor not functioning after G29 command" Tags="|extruder|diy-3d-printer|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4831" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4841" CreationDate="2017-10-29T10:40:33.143" Score="5" ViewCount="764" Body="&lt;p&gt;Recently, I changed my RAMPS 1.4 card (because there was a problem with the power output).So I bought this new one, and an Arduino Mega.I didn'T change the code (Marlin 1.3.3).I used the same stepsticks (a4988).I plugged my motors to the Ramps card. When I give them the command to turn they started to turn but didn't stop.Stepsticks got hot.After some time I tried it again and they just vibrated.The stepsticks got insanely hot after just 5-6 seconds.I used a different stepstick RAMPS card and Mega, they worked perfectly.But when I plugged the stepstick to the new card, the motors did te same thing again. What can be causing this and how can I fix it? &#xA;(I've measured the voltage input, it is 12V and stable)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8868" LastActivityDate="2017-10-30T09:13:52.977" Title="Step motors vibrate, don't move at all (Prusa I3)" Tags="|prusa-i3|ramps-1.4|stepper|stepper-driver|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4832" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-10-29T14:58:33.517" Score="2" ViewCount="440" Body="&lt;p&gt;So after a &lt;em&gt;lot&lt;/em&gt; of work I finally got my Anet A8 printing but then disaster struck. It has stopped working again but with a new problem. The first few strokes of printing are fine but then it goes really stringy and the lines are very very thin so the result is a very stringy mess with holes and gaps everywhere. I am also using PLA from RS and my G-code and some images are below:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RVkG6.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Stringy print&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RVkG6.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Stringy print&quot; title=&quot;Stringy print&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;G-code: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.mediafire.com/file/p4odlic1372q78z/xyzCalibration_cube.gcode&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.mediafire.com/file/p4odlic1372q78z/xyzCalibration_cube.gcode&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6994" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-07-08T11:51:48.970" LastActivityDate="2018-07-08T11:51:48.970" Title="My Anet A8's filament isn't extruding properly" Tags="|filament|pla|ultimaker-cura|anet-a8|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4833" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4429" CreationDate="2017-10-29T15:31:41.460" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Dude, you're absolutely not crazy, I almost put the entire thing back in the box when I realized I'd have to void the warranty just to finish putting together my printer but I wound up boring out the holes a bit closer to the edges of the extruder and assembling it all the same, it works wonderfully now that I have it attached.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8870" LastActivityDate="2017-10-29T15:31:41.460" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4834" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-10-29T17:12:28.837" Score="5" ViewCount="345" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 3D printer that I built and I'm having trouble with some g code. I have to stop and start the extrude motor when the z axis moves up to the next layer. When I do this the 3D pen I am using goes back a little bit to prevent dripping. When the motor starts again the filament is not at the tip yet and I am trying to add a dwell time before it starts moving again to give the filament time to come out. When I enter &lt;code&gt;G04 P100&lt;/code&gt; after each M3 command (the code I have to use to start my motor) it dwells way longer than 100ms and P10 seems to take around 10 seconds. On Wikipedia it states the control parameters for ms is P and the one for seconds is X however the reprap wiki states the proper control parameter for seconds is S. So my question is what is the correct parameter and how precise can I be with seconds i.e. .0000 how many zeros can I have after the decimal. I am trying to calibrate and get accurate prints so any help would be greatly appreciated. I am using grbl version .8 with and arduino uno. The software I am using is Grbl Controller 3.6.1&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8837" LastEditorUserId="8052" LastEditDate="2017-11-06T23:45:47.830" LastActivityDate="2018-10-17T06:28:01.110" Title="G04 dwell period control parameters" Tags="|diy-3d-printer|g-code|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4835" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4840" CreationDate="2017-10-29T20:01:20.977" Score="4" ViewCount="1976" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently got started in 3D printing but here's an issue I can't seem to find a solution for (I don't know what exactly to look for).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's what I did:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I used InkScape to convert an emoji in to a svg and imported it in to Blender&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Used the Solidify modifier to make the curve a solid and converted it in to a mesh&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Extruded the mesh a bit, fixed a few non-manifold vertices and erroneous faces and saved the whole shebang as STL&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Imported the STL in to my printers software: &#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.imgur.com/5xdXhPz.png&quot; alt=&quot;1&quot;&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;After slicing it looks like this: &#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.imgur.com/Z966Ovw.png&quot; alt=&quot;2&quot;&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is the software making a mistake during the slicing? Or is my mesh screwed up?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a FlashForge Finder and using the software that came with it: FlashPrint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: I uploaded everything to &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2616300&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Thingiverse&lt;/a&gt; for those who are interested.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8872" LastEditorUserId="8872" LastEditDate="2017-10-30T23:56:48.873" LastActivityDate="2017-10-30T23:56:48.873" Title="Slicing adds holes/cracks to my object" Tags="|3d-models|3d-design|slicing|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4836" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-10-29T20:01:51.683" Score="5" ViewCount="276" Body="&lt;p&gt;I got into 3D printing back when it was very much an art and not user friendly, and I have not been keeping up with it very much.  My Slic3r profile required me to manually put in the GCODE to turn off the nozzle and bed.  I'm experimenting with Cura and I can't seem to find a place to enter in GCODE.  The program is way more polished than I am used to, so it's possible that it's an automatically enabled feature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does Cura automatically turn off the bed and nozzle after a print is complete, or do I need to manually enter the GCODE somewhere?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5576" LastActivityDate="2017-10-30T01:27:23.700" Title="Do I need to manually enter in gcode to turn off the bed and nozzle?" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4837" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4836" CreationDate="2017-10-30T00:53:24.180" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Using Cura 3.0.3 to create the GCODE and OctoPi/OctoPrint 1.2.7 to print: By default the printer turned off the nozzle and bed, and also homed the X and Y axises.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can set start and end GCODE in the preferences for the machine, like so:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GueVT.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GueVT.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5576" LastEditorUserId="5576" LastEditDate="2017-10-30T01:27:23.700" LastActivityDate="2017-10-30T01:27:23.700" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4838" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4832" CreationDate="2017-10-30T07:42:30.190" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The most likely problem is that you have a jammed nozzle. To fix this heat the hot end up to about 140°C then insert some PLA filament push it through and then pull it out forcefully. That should solve your problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8613" LastActivityDate="2017-10-30T07:42:30.190" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4839" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4835" CreationDate="2017-10-30T07:49:09.867" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is likely not a problem with your mesh. It's a problem in the slicer software.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because your 3D printer prints with a (for example) 0.4mm nozzle, it lays down lines of plastic that are around (for example) 0.5mm wide. The slicer has to create a pattern, consisting of 0.5mm wide lines, that fills in your object. The gaps shown in your object are likely smaller than this, and thus can't be filled.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am not familiar with the flashforge software, but different slicers have different ways of dealing with this. Some offer a &quot;gap fill&quot; option that uses tricks to be able to fill in these very tiny gaps by rapidly moving the extruder back and forth over the gap. However, even then, it is sometimes unavoidable that tiny gaps remain. Some gaps are just too small to fill with the comparatively large nozzle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastActivityDate="2017-10-30T07:49:09.867" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4840" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4835" CreationDate="2017-10-30T08:30:56.087" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;here is just a addenum to Tom van der Zanden's answer&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;this is (an example of) what you may design - nice object with virtual outline, and virtual fill&#xA;so this is what you see (and what you potentially expect)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/61gRm.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/61gRm.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;but here is what you get (and probably not really expect)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5HdqS.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5HdqS.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;red parts are the areas which are not covered by fill because nozzle cannot reach there&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;solution is &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;to redesign your object in smart way or&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;to use smaller nozzle or&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;to use smarter app (like &lt;a href=&quot;http://slic3r.org/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Slic3r&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and of course you can use all 3 options together to get best results ;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;here is simple explanation why smarter app could do the thing&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VBrLW.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VBrLW.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and here goes the difference&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3nNEN.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3nNEN.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;green parts are new covered areas&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;not much but somthing extra&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1211" LastEditorUserId="1211" LastEditDate="2017-10-30T08:49:41.847" LastActivityDate="2017-10-30T08:49:41.847" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4841" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4831" CreationDate="2017-10-30T09:13:52.977" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Usually if they get too hot you have to adjust the amperage by turning the little potentiometer on the A4988 (turn left until you can move the motor by hand, turn right until you cant, add a little bit like 1/8 to 1/4 of a turn).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I used a different stepstick RAMPS card and Mega, they worked perfectly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;it is not completely clear, so:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;the A4988 work on another board -&gt; your new board is broken&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;another A4988 worked -&gt; the A4988 is broken&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;HTH&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8328" LastActivityDate="2017-10-30T09:13:52.977" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4843" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4844" CreationDate="2017-10-30T14:36:29.160" Score="2" ViewCount="77" Body="&lt;p&gt;With some of the items I am designing I would love to put them through a simulation. Like crushing, for example. I want to know how well my object can handle any situation I put it through so I can make changes before I print out the object, only to find out there was a weak spot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have been trying to learn ParaView but it is a little complicated off the bat, I would like something easy to use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If anybody knows of a program that would be fantastic!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8835" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2021-04-23T03:11:15.467" LastActivityDate="2021-04-23T03:11:15.467" Title="A free simulation program" Tags="|3d-design|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4844" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4843" CreationDate="2017-10-30T14:57:17.207" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Fusion 360 will do finite element analysis (simulation), although I haven't used it. Whether it will perform the type of analysis that you are looking for, I do not know. Check Autodesk's tutorials.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One problem that you will encounter is that items printed using FDM technology are highly anisotropic. In other words, they have a grain, and are stronger/weaker in some directions than in others. I do not think that Fusion 360 can take account of that in its analysis.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://help.autodesk.com/view/fusion360/ENU/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Autodesk: Fusion 360&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3953" LastEditorUserId="3953" LastEditDate="2017-10-30T15:16:32.953" LastActivityDate="2017-10-30T15:16:32.953" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4845" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4848" CreationDate="2017-10-30T16:55:58.880" Score="1" ViewCount="1008" Body="&lt;p&gt;I planning on getting a resin 3d printer kit, and I don't want to take any risks building it myself.  Where, or who, could I hire a professional capable of constructing a 3D printer kit? They don't necessarily have to specialize in constructing 3d printers, I just need someone qualified with the mechanical and technical skills for the job.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8877" LastEditorUserId="5576" LastEditDate="2017-11-06T23:45:38.117" LastActivityDate="2017-11-06T23:45:38.117" Title="Where or who could I hire to assemble a 3d printer that came in a kit for me?" Tags="|sla|dlp|services|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2017-11-12T04:58:31.947" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4846" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-10-30T17:18:29.497" Score="8" ViewCount="1974" Body="&lt;p&gt;Materials used in space need to not outgas significantly  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An answer to this question: &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/91/would-3d-printed-objects-outgas-in-vacuum?newreg=63cb72665132436c92ff1a842afac664&quot;&gt;Would 3d-printed objects outgas in vacuum?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;referred to the NASA outgassing database which showed that ABS, PET, and PLA filaments are all fairly low outgassing and suitable for space application.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I'm wondering is whether there are any 3D-printable plastics that are both suitable for space and also self-lubricating.   Nylon is the obvious printable self-lubricating material, but I believe that it outgasses too much (I don't think NASA has tested nylon filament, at least I can't find it in the database). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My primary interest is in hobbyist-grade, FDM printers but if there are materials that can be commercially 3D printed, that is also of interest.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8878" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2018-08-18T09:25:26.193" LastActivityDate="2018-08-18T09:25:26.193" Title="Self-lubricating 3D printable materials for space" Tags="|filament|filament-choice|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4847" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-10-30T18:07:59.027" Score="2" ViewCount="84" Body="&lt;p&gt;Any idea which software they use to get the honeycomb pattern?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I just read a nice article about the “Design of a Patient Specific, 3D printed Arm Cast”. (&lt;a href=&quot;https://knepublishing.com/index.php/KnE-Engineering/article/view/607/1895&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://knepublishing.com/index.php/KnE-Engineering/article/view/607/1895&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To create the cast model itself is pretty simple but I found no easy way to remove the honeycombs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The article just says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;Using the solid body model that was extruded from the surface of the arm, the pattern can be applied to the cast model. This is done by creating a UV map of the models surface and creating a surface mask of the pattern, this is applied to the model. Using the design mask the areas that not required can be removed from the cast model.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But it is not mentioned which software they use. Maybe someone of you got an idea.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/flHDj.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/flHDj.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8880" LastEditorUserId="14562" LastEditDate="2020-07-14T22:12:09.293" LastActivityDate="2020-07-14T22:12:09.293" Title="Mesh modeling - remove parts of a mesh using a uv map" Tags="|3d-models|3d-design|software|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4848" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4845" CreationDate="2017-10-30T18:41:47.293" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have a makerspace in your area, you'll likely find individuals with reasonable mechanical skills suitable for simple kit assembly. Most kits are engineered to be reasonable assembly, not rocket surgery. Makers are by nature capable of construction, often from raw materials, and kits are typically not particularly challenging comparatively speaking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Resin 3D printers are also simple in construction, as the component count is less than that of an FDM printer, or quite close in count. SLA designs involve laser modules, mirrors and alignment, while DLP designs involve light projection and light masking. Both designs involve vats and movement mechanics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even if you do not have a makerspace local to you, consider to contact one that might be nearer than farther away, as those spaces may have leads for you to locate a suitable victim/candidate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Our local library makerspace often farms out contacts to me or other makers with the necessary skills to meet a patron's requirements.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastActivityDate="2017-10-30T18:41:47.293" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4849" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4850" CreationDate="2017-10-30T16:47:28.023" Score="19" ViewCount="7823" Body="&lt;p&gt;As 3D printers become more and more reliable, their prints get better and better. But FDM printers do have their problems too: you print tiny ovals that smooch together at the edges, and infill makes it awkward at times. So, how do I make a 3D-printed die fair (as in: not favoring one side too much)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" OwnerDisplayName="Trish" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2018-09-16T12:43:09.740" LastActivityDate="2018-09-16T12:43:09.740" Title="How do I 3D-print fair dice?" Tags="|print-quality|3d-design|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4850" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4849" CreationDate="2017-10-30T16:47:28.023" Score="22" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is going to become a 3-step answer, as 3D Printing uses 3 different steps:&#xA;&lt;em&gt;Design, Slicing &amp;amp; Material choice&lt;/em&gt; before I elaborate alternate ways to some fair dice. Yet, we start with the material, as we need to know about it first. In this case it does impact everything from design to slicing and the print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Variant A: Printed perfect(?)&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Step 1: Know your material&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's face it: most materials used in Fused Deposition Modeling (FDM) face an non-homogenous shrinking between XY plane and Z axis. But if you know these specific properties for your printer/filament/temperature combo, you can compensate for that. &lt;strong&gt;Know your material&lt;/strong&gt; - you will need that for slicing. Run a test print of a 10x10x10 mm cube and measure - the offset of the 10mm on each axis is what you need to compensate for via your slicer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Step 2: Design fairly&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Platonic bodies&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When designing your STL, try to &lt;strong&gt;design as fair as you can&lt;/strong&gt;. Either indent the numbers as little as you can while maintaining readability, or, if you have a 2 color printer, fill the numbers with same density material but from the other color.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another thing to consider: indent the same surface area on each face of the body. That way you remove the same volume and thus same weight from each face, making it somewhat fair in the design, as the Center of Mass should be mostly in the center of the body now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Prism-&quot;dice&quot;&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A cylindrical (or rather: prism) design that is rolled over its &quot;cylinder&quot; surfaces might be the most easy to be designed fairly and be reasonably easy to slice, without having to resort to specialist slicing methods and tons of different compensations to keep in mind or having to assemble the object after print. It might be made with or without a &quot;fall over&quot; cone/elipsoid shape at both ends. Or it might be made like a dreidl, having only one conical/elipsoid tip for easy printing, possibly even havign the 'stem' printed as a different object and then assembled after print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Step 3: Slicing&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, there is a pretty fair design... but what settings to use when printing it?!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Infill will make it wonky, so there are 2 options: solid (100% infill) and fully hollow (0% infill). Solid is easier to print and heavier. Hollow saves (depending on surface sides) 95% or more of the material in contrast to solid but can fall victim to sagging flat surfaces or wall thickness being not the same as flat area thickness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, after we chose the infill settings, we need to choose some other things. We want to print fairly delicate stuff, so we should use a smaller layer height than normally (0.05 mm, for example), and better a smaller nozzle - 0.2 mm or even less, if available. This again means, calibrating the printer/material combo for these two settings (XY / Z shrinking).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After calibration, finally print! The dice should be pretty ok in fairness with that, but they are still not totally fair...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Extra-step: Postprocessing&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might make a test for bias by floating it on a salt water layer under tap water... if you managed to get it solid enough to reduce the air inside it to make it sink between these layers. That way you can slightly sand the heavier side until it is unbiased.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you manage to print somewhat fair and hollow, you might consider filling the cavity with some kind of resin (for example epoxy) to give the objects a bit of weight. This has some caveats on its own though: you'll have to leave a filling hole and you'll have to coat the inside equally or refill it several times to ensure a complete fill as most resins shrink when curing. Also, most resins heat up in curing, though usually not to the degree it melts FDM. As you work with resin, &lt;strong&gt;Wear gloves&lt;/strong&gt; as it is aggressive to skin!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;BUT! 3D printink can do more!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Variant B: Printed Perfection&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;FDM is home printer stuff, but maybe you have access to something more... industrial. They are tricky in their own way, and you better know what you do with them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;SLS (solid laser sintering)&lt;/strong&gt; You just need to know your material shrinking coefficients in that case... and no, you don't need to think about infill, you only can do solid, 100% filled objects this way. But you will also have virtually no air in your print. Having SLS at home is rare though. This is however likely what you get when you order printed... but remember: the SLS powder is highly hygroscopic and will need to be sealed. Also, it does turn yellowish over time if it starts white. Using reused powder to a large degree degrades print quality also. And &lt;em&gt;never&lt;/em&gt; look into the working machine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;DLMS (Direct Laser Metal Smelting)&lt;/strong&gt; is quite new and pretty much the metal variant of SLS. If you make your dice in that way and get them almost indistinguishable from cast metal. Polish the surfaces a little, don't sniff the breath the powder and don't look into the laser.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;DLP/SLA (Direct Light Processing/Stereo Lithography)&lt;/strong&gt; Printing the thing from curing resin actually is pretty much close to SLS, but it has some resemblence to FDM in parts... biggest benefit: you can make very delicate details, and your layer heights get really thin - and you have a huge array of colors to choose from. But you have to take in mind, that you might want to either make the dice solid or design them with a hole in each of the sides or corners to allow surplus resin to flow out. You get perfect surfaces and can reuse the resin for quite a bit&lt;sup&gt;depending on printer and storeage&lt;/sup&gt;, but remember: SLA is a stinky thing, never look into the printing machine &amp;amp; the resins are very agressive to skin, so &lt;em&gt;use gloves&lt;/em&gt; when working with the printing and the print until properly cleaned.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Variant C: Lost Print&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But wait, what if you don't actually print the dice but just print a positive of the dice and then make a negative mold from that?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, that can be done. You know lost wax casting? There you go. Here's your step by step:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Print your dice.&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;maybe even puzzle the positive together from several faces printed all in the same orientation for maximum equality in the print.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Add a casting inlet and air outlet to the print.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;cast the positive in either a clay material or gypsum. Allow it to dry/set.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Burn/melt out the positive, you get a hot and empty negative form.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;cast in liquid metal or a resin&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;break mold, remove the inlets, polish some and... voila!&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are good at green sand casting, you might use that instead of lost wax casting - and reuse the positive for a second casting. Or, if you are good, you can make two-part molds that are reuseable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Variant 3b: mold it!&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If we can print a positive and make a mold from that, we might as well print a mold directly. We can just cast in &quot;cold&quot; materials then, but if you have something that can be cast that way (some resins or wax) you can make either the dice or casting sprues for lost wax casting that way. Designing here will be different on the last steps though: after doing your wanted object, use this as a &quot;tool&quot; to cut out from a more or less square block that surrounds it. cut out the inlet/outlet for material and air from the block. Then cut up to your liking, if you want a reusable multi-part mold. You might want to add a roove to add wire or a rubber band around the print to keep the mold together while casting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or we go industrial with that model, grab a CNC and make the mold halves that way and give up on printing the dice...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;tl;dr:&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Know your printer, know your material, design for your printer's requirements, design fairly, maybe avoid printing the actual dice but print a positive to be molded and cast or print a mold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" OwnerDisplayName="Trish" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2018-07-08T11:04:36.490" LastActivityDate="2018-07-08T11:04:36.490" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4851" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4849" CreationDate="2017-10-30T17:50:15.153" Score="4" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Honestly, I wouldn't.&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can find dice templates at places like &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;thingiverse&lt;/a&gt;, but with my (admittedly limited) experience of affordable 3D printers, I would be highly skeptical that the machine tolerances are up to snuff for producing a fair die. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See this &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/3605/will-3d-printed-dice-be-fair&quot;&gt;discussion&lt;/a&gt; from the 3d printing exchange, especially these &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/3640&quot;&gt;two&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/3606&quot;&gt;answers&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're really bound and determined to do this (we all have our geeky little passion projects!) I'd advise trying to find a template which the authors claim to have tested with chi-square, then find out what (type of) device they used.  If you can replicate that, go for it... and then do the chi-square test yourself.  It's ridiculously easy to set something up wrong, or forget something (like the possible effects of internal orientation.) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Novak" LastActivityDate="2017-10-30T18:06:46.950" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4852" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-10-31T00:55:27.567" Score="4" ViewCount="162" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am trying to modify this &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2516525&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;thing&lt;/a&gt;.  It's prints OK, but there are some design choices I don't like, so, since the previous makers uploaded their source files, I tried my hand at Sketchup.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My latest round of changes have produced a weird phenomenon, and I'm not sure how to describe it.  The slicer sees the GCODE as I intend, but for some reason the printer is printing something different than what the slicer is showing me.  I am primarily concerned with the top of this case, but the base does not have the additional screw holes I made, so the phenomenon, whatever it is, is not limited to a single part.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sketchup v17.2.25555&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cura v3.0.3&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;OctoPi/OctoPrint 1.2.7&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;PrintrBot LC custom&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Grey Inland PLA+ @~180C, bed @~60C (my temps are higher than the software thinks they are, so I have to put the temp lower in the software)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can see the parts in Sketchup:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FCSH7.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FCSH7.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The corner on the left was giving me no end of trouble!  I left it with a messed up hole because I could more easily clean it up with a drill bit than spend another few hours futzing with that corner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9ay0V.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9ay0V.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is in Cura, after I have sliced it.  Looks fine to me!  There is a bit of red in that problematic corner, but I only noticed that after the print came out weird.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5RYPm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5RYPm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the output of the printer.  Notice how the edge near the GPIO pins is shorter than the rest, and how the hole is inverted into a protrusion.  This is the opposite of what I want, and the opposite of what I see in the other softwares.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DYrkP.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DYrkP.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QRpAo.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QRpAo.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5576" LastActivityDate="2017-10-31T09:01:28.877" Title="My print did not turn out as I expected. Where can I start troubleshooting?" Tags="|3d-models|3d-design|software|ultimaker-cura|slicing|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4853" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1" CreationDate="2017-10-31T01:25:40.387" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;For FDM technologies in general with a single extruder, slicing modifications is your only options. However there will be a trade off between quality and speed. &#xA;For ABS, changing to a machine with a enclosed build (such as a zortrax) chamber may help and a heated build chamber (Stratasys machine) will help the quality and reliability but not the print speed directly. As ABS has a tendency to warp vase mode is not the best idea either.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you only need high resolution and not strength then reducing the infill percentage or even using vase mode will speed up the print. Also changing to a material that you can print at higher speeds like PLA will magnify any of the previous settings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have two extruders then changing to a wider nozzle and using that for infill may speed up the print, heating and cooling time during extruder changeover may actually make it slower.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For other technologies there are lots of options digital light projection (DLP) and stereolithography (SLA) both provide significantly higher resolution then FDM, with DLP being the faster of the two, &lt;a href=&quot;https://formlabs.com/blog/3d-printing-technology-comparison-sla-dlp/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;comparison&lt;/a&gt;. Take the review with a grain of salt though as the technologies are far from standardised, for example out DLP at work offers far higher resolution and speed then our SLA which is quite old.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sintering or melting technologies can scan the outline every layer then perform a infill of multiple layers at once to speed up the process. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4639" LastEditorUserId="4639" LastEditDate="2017-10-31T02:31:08.560" LastActivityDate="2017-10-31T02:31:08.560" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4854" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-10-31T03:13:12.280" Score="4" ViewCount="319" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Disclaimer:&lt;/strong&gt; I am not a professional 3D printer, so I'm not really familiar with how 3D printing works.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was thinking about trying to make a real life model of the atomic orbitals, to clearly see how the orbitals are really shaped. I thought about trying to 3D print a block, made up of colored transparent &quot;ink&quot;, in such a way that the darkness of the color at a point in the block should be proportional to the ψ&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; value (probability of the electron cloud). This would print a block in which high density areas are darker than light intensity areas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is, would it be possible to design an algorithm to print a specific darkness of ink at a specific location based on the computed value of ψ&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;, which is obtained by solving Schrödinger's Equation. Also, would it be possible to have this fullfilled at a reasonable price to be afforded by a regular customer, such as an engineering employee?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8886" LastEditorUserId="8886" LastEditDate="2017-10-31T07:47:16.097" LastActivityDate="2018-04-04T23:25:14.770" Title="Is it possible to 3D print shapes of atomic orbitals for a regular customer?" Tags="|print-quality|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4855" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4854" CreationDate="2017-10-31T08:25:42.777" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;problem definition&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not quite sure if it's really question for this group. Looks like the problem itself is more for programming or physics group. Having requested calculations (electron cloud shape) resolved, there will be something to print but...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;printing probability cloud&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;at first, please take a look for example &lt;a href=&quot;http://3dprintingfromscratch.com/common/types-of-3d-printers-or-3d-printing-technologies-overview/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;it's a review of 3d printing technologies. i think you should have clear picture if your idea is feasible or not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;IMO it's not with todays technologies. in general (and deadly simlified) we have 3 main printing technics&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;out of solid (or semi-solid) filaments - can be colorful and semi-transparent but it's not homogenous in terms of your needs&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;out of solid powders - can be colorful but it cannot be transparent&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;out of liquids - can be really transparent and color but unfortunately not colorful&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;i'd say rendering but not printing is what you really need&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1211" LastActivityDate="2017-10-31T08:25:42.777" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4856" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4852" CreationDate="2017-10-31T08:41:04.697" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Looks like you are over extruding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;check out this visual guide for example (I like it a lot):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/23-a-visual-ultimaker-troubleshooting-guide&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/23-a-visual-ultimaker-troubleshooting-guide&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the protruding thingy, it seems (as the other hole is filled up with over extruded filament, it seems) that it's the &quot;hole&quot; printed. For the rest of the &quot;wall&quot; where that hole should have been, it seems it was just not printed. What size is it (if too thin, the slicer might just discard it, doesn't seems like it but you didn't tell nozzle size etc).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know, but I think you should start with calibrating your machine first so that you actually &lt;em&gt;can&lt;/em&gt; print small holes like that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the missing wall, what does the slice result look like?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8328" LastActivityDate="2017-10-31T08:41:04.697" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4857" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4852" CreationDate="2017-10-31T08:43:27.190" Score="3" Body="&lt;h1&gt;first issue&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;bed inclination. it has to be heavy issue :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;if you have any other printouts then please reveal them so we could see if it's the problem&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;next issue&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;inversion of hole into solid object&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;i would say it's caused by wrong calculation of &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Normal_(geometry)&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;normal vector&lt;/a&gt; to some face(s)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;algorithm uses normal to calculates what is &quot;inside&quot; and what is not&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;it's hard to say if it's an issue of &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;object itself&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;application in which you modify it (even if duplicating or joining with other objects)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;slicer engine&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;to fix the issue, you can try edit your object (recreate this hole)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;but first - definitelly i'd align your bed properly ;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;after closer look i bet it's the issue of bad object. it looks like pointed line is kinda remnant of some operations made on object in the past&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;in other words - it's possible place where normals are reverted and doesn't &quot;create&quot; inside but outside&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;all above this line is reverted. &lt;strong&gt;part of body disappeared and part of hole appeared&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;this is the issue for sure!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QupM7.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QupM7.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZTVh2.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZTVh2.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1211" LastEditorUserId="1211" LastEditDate="2017-10-31T09:01:28.877" LastActivityDate="2017-10-31T09:01:28.877" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4858" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-10-31T09:15:01.853" Score="2" ViewCount="180" Body="&lt;p&gt;I currently have a print job that is about 50% done, been running for 2 hours with 2 hours remaining.  One side is curling/warping pretty bad, and I'm afraid there's no possible way this is going to finish without serious problems if I don't intervene.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So what I'm doing is either brilliant or idiotic, I'm not sure which: I've paused the print job, stuck some elmers glue below the curling part (with toothpicks, careful not to budge anything else), added a couple degrees to the heatbed (for pliability hopefully), put a small book on top of it to smash it on the glue and let it rest for a little bit (I'll report back if this was a horrible idea or not).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;So my main quesiton:&lt;/strong&gt; Is there any other techniques that you folks can recommend for a scenario like this?  McGuyver'y techniques to repair your in-progress print jobs?  Has anyone tried this technique I'm attempting and if so how successful was it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In case it matters, I have an ANET A8 and generally send my print jobs to Octoprint (Raspi) from Cura with a Octoprint plugin (Windows).  Printing with PLA filament.  I've done quite a few successful prints recently, but this is the first one that goes from corner-to-corner on the heatbed (&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2189694&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this specifically&lt;/a&gt;).  Printing at 207c with 60c heatbed (bumped up to 64 while glue settles).  It's in a cooler room of the house, and doesn't have an enclosure so I'm afraid the cool temp is affecting it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit, last maybe significant (or maybe not) details: printing on glass with glue stick applied to it - been doing it for weeks and works quite well for the most part.  Also, printing on a raft.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit, here are a few pics.  Both are from the back of the printer looking forward.  I have one cam almost exactly level with the glass so I can see the hot-end extrude filament and another one slightly above it.  Sorry for the bad lighting.  Also included screenshots of my slicer settings for this print.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Btw, I've since resumed printing after glueing it down, so far so good - but as you can see in the first pic it may have some possible structural defects and still has a slight curl:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/B2sxA.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/B2sxA.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3YhXj.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3YhXj.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KhMjG.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KhMjG.png&quot; alt=&quot;Slicer Settings&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wVyqz.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wVyqz.png&quot; alt=&quot;Slicer Settings (pt2)&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8888" LastEditorUserId="8888" LastEditDate="2017-10-31T10:15:15.557" LastActivityDate="2017-10-31T22:24:56.643" Title="What can I do about a printjob in progress that starts to warp/curl on the edges?" Tags="|print-quality|warping|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4859" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4858" CreationDate="2017-10-31T14:58:43.693" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;More glue to hold it down and lower in-fill percentage will reduce the warping. Or adding more cut-outs to the design like you have further up the shaft. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8890" LastActivityDate="2017-10-31T14:58:43.693" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4860" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4854" CreationDate="2017-10-31T17:05:52.323" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;As Darth pixel mentioned, your best bet would likely be to explore subsurface laser engraving which makes little bubbles inside acrylic to make it translucent (frosted) on the inside in certain places.  However, it is expensive, it has no colors, and the resolution isn't usually great (it may look speckled on the edges instead of having a smooth gradient from clear to whitish).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A better option might be to 3d print a probability map of a 2D image an orbital cloud where height corresponds to probability rather than color. (So it will look like a hill or group of hills)  This would only run you a few dollars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8893" LastActivityDate="2017-10-31T17:05:52.323" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4861" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3566" CreationDate="2017-10-31T19:22:15.833" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The slic3r software is written in Perl, a programming language that can be expanded with local libraries.  XML::SAX is one such library.  CPAN is a tool which can be used to retrieve libraries from the CPAN repository (Comprehensive Perl Archive Network, I believe).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I use CPAN is something I do infrequently, so I would be doing a disservice by trying to list the steps here.  Better answers are, no doubt, on stackexchange.  Nevertheless, these may help:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From your command line, start Perl running the CPAN module, and invoke the CPAN shell (your input in &lt;strong&gt;bold&lt;/strong&gt;):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&amp;gt; &lt;strong&gt;perl -MCPAN -e shell&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;cpan&gt; &lt;strong&gt;install XML::SAX&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;cpan&gt; ... several lines of output ...&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Done!&lt;br&gt;&#xA;XML::SAX is up to date (0.99).&lt;br&gt;&#xA;cpan&gt; &lt;strong&gt;quit&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&amp;gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With that done, try using slic3r again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2082" LastActivityDate="2017-10-31T19:22:15.833" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4862" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4690" CreationDate="2017-10-31T19:56:18.463" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;I would have posted this as a comment, since it is not a definitive answer to the question, but it was too long for a comment.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since you were unplugging the fan when the problem started, I would suggest that it is a wiring problem.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first place I would look is to check the ground connection between the processor board (probably the ATMEGA Arduino), and the board that carries the stepper motor drivers.  If the ground connection is faulty, the board may still work due to sneak ground paths through signal lines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A simple way to check is to measure the voltage from the GND pin on the ATMEGA to the ground of the driver board.  That voltage should be very close to 0.0 Volts.  You might also check the resistance (using an ohm meter) with the power turned off.  The resistance should be 0.0 ohms, or if the meter is not perfectly calibrated, it should be the same as you measure with the probes connected together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If either of these readings isn't zero, search for a broken connection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One sign that ground may be broken is the LCD brightness control sensitivity.  I don't have the schematic to refer to, but if the ground reference for the pot is broken, the output of the pot will be too high.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another sign is that the stepper motors still make some sounds when they should move.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't find a problem there, check through the other power and ground connections.  Be sure that all GND lines are well connected, all +5 lines are well connected, and that all +12 lines are well connected.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2082" LastActivityDate="2017-10-31T19:56:18.463" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4863" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4858" CreationDate="2017-10-31T20:16:39.797" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Three thoughts:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;bed temperature&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;rim width&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;bonding agent&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bed Temperature:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Often the edges of a heated bed are not as hot as the center.  Making the heat pass through an insulator (the glass) makes the temperature profile on the corners more relatively cool compared to the center than if you were printing directly on the aluminum bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To offset that, you could:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Increase the overall heated bed temperature.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wrap some insulation (such as ceramic felt) around the edge, keeping it out of the way of the print.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Add insulation to the underside corners of the bed, to reduce heat loss.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rim Thickness:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I see that you are using a rim.  Since the rim was also pulling up, rather than the print pulling out of the rim, you might benefit from making the rim broader.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bonding Agent:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It looks as if you are printing on blue tape, but that might be the picture.  IME, gluestick and blue tape aren't often used together.  If you are using only blue tape, the condition of the tape is critical.  Any grease or rubbing of the tape (such as by resting your hand on the bed when making other prints) can reduce the holding power.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you haven't tried it yet, you might try printing PLA with the PVA (polyvinyl alcohol) gluestick.  I use the &quot;purple until dry&quot; Elmers gluesticks with good results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2082" LastActivityDate="2017-10-31T20:16:39.797" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4864" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4858" CreationDate="2017-10-31T22:24:56.643" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Putting a large brim on it can help, I've seen people rescue prints with larger brims by literally adding weights to the brim around the areas that are peeling up. I've done it by taping brim edges down carefully as the print goes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8768" LastActivityDate="2017-10-31T22:24:56.643" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4865" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4854" CreationDate="2017-11-01T04:33:33.660" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I suggest you look into Polysher: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.polymaker.com/shop/polysmoothpolysher/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.polymaker.com/shop/polysmoothpolysher/&lt;/a&gt; and e3D cyclops extruder &lt;a href=&quot;https://e3d-online.com/Cyclops&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://e3d-online.com/Cyclops&lt;/a&gt; you can make gradients of color.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But there might even be a smarter way to do alpha transparency than 100% infill with a transparent material:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) making a lattice of opaque material nodes (where bigger or closer together nodes mean more probability), and using air as the transparent medium&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) dunking the 1) in resin&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3) making the afore-mentioned lattice with a partially transparent material and dunking it in a resin of the same refractive index as the transparent material.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8895" LastActivityDate="2017-11-01T04:33:33.660" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4866" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4845" CreationDate="2017-11-01T12:29:56.273" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I agree that a local makerspace is a good option, but I will say this...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Buying a kit and building it yourself, even with some frustration and learning curves, will help immensely with your ability to calibrate and troubleshoot issues later.  If someone else builds it for you, chances are if something goes wrong, you'll need to seek out that person for help fixing things.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I just recently bought my first 3D printer (FDM) as a kit.  Building it was a slight learning curve - I'm a technophile and have built things with Arduino before, but never a printer and the specifics that come along with it.  Getting it to actually print reliably took me about two weeks.  However, I'm MUCH more confident now to take care of issues as they arise, and keep it running smoothly.  The value of this experience can not be overstated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3845" LastActivityDate="2017-11-01T12:29:56.273" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4867" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4809" CreationDate="2017-11-01T13:17:50.453" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Download an stl file from Thingiverse.com &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Put your .stl file in a slicer program like cura&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It will output gcode for 3d objects rather than 2d.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4251" LastActivityDate="2017-11-01T13:17:50.453" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4868" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4872" CreationDate="2017-11-02T12:37:12.347" Score="3" ViewCount="10706" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an issue with implementing a G-code to print a large 3D object using the Creality CR-10 printer. The print went well for over 30 hours but the filament broke off during the print and stopped at a height of around 172&amp;nbsp;mm of a total height of 256&amp;nbsp;mm. 1753 layers total , stopped at layer 1170.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to restart the print so the extruder begins printing at a height of 172&amp;nbsp;mm rather that from the start. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have tried several sites online and had removed the previous 1169 layers and also changed the start position of the extruder to the code below:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;G1 X20 Y20 Z385; Center extruder above bed&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem I have is that when I start the print, the extruder moves to the middle of the plate and begins moving upwards but I need the extruder to stay near the edge of the build plate and move upwards past 172&amp;nbsp;mm and &lt;em&gt;then&lt;/em&gt; begin printing as it would have for layer 1169 and continue the print. At the moment the extruder moves upwards and towards the middle of the plate and will impact with the existing printed material (see picture attached) and this stops it from correctly positioning. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Limic.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Existing printed material on build plate&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Limic.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Existing printed material on build plate&quot; title=&quot;Existing printed material on build plate&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can anyone help with the start code for the G-code that I could use ? I just need the x,y,z to home and then for the extruder to stay near the edge of the build plate but move past 172&amp;nbsp;mm in the z direction before then beginning to print. Any advice would really be appreciated , first question on this platform so apologies if the detail isn't there. If you need anything more please don't hesitate to get in touch. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8905" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2018-09-16T12:42:59.800" LastActivityDate="2020-12-26T22:49:56.460" Title="How to edit G-code created in Cura to begin printing at a specified layer height?" Tags="|print-quality|3d-models|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4869" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-11-02T19:47:54.820" Score="4" ViewCount="221" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have ToyRep printer (RepRap), with RAMPS 1.4 on the board. And I am powering in from ATX power supply with 12V. And the problem is it doesn't heat to 230(for ABS), max value was 173 degrees by Celsius. Is it bad extruder or not enough power?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8909" LastActivityDate="2017-11-02T20:41:42.287" Title="Ramps 1.4 and extruder" Tags="|extruder|abs|reprap|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4870" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4869" CreationDate="2017-11-02T20:41:42.287" Score="2" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Make sure that your heating device (resistor) is for 12v, not 24v (resistance is &amp;lt; 10Ohm)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check if the temperature readings that you get in your system are (at least roughly) the same as actual temperature (thermocouple with multimeter or any other device that can measure ~200C will help)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check if connections are good enough. Low voltage at hotend is an indication of possible problem. ATX power wires are often too thin to transfer enough current. Consider replacing them with at least 2.5mm&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; (AWG 14)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3839" LastActivityDate="2017-11-02T20:41:42.287" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4872" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4868" CreationDate="2017-11-03T06:12:32.937" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well this is a little complicated since nozzle height could collides with the part if the line 1169 has had started to be printed (part of the line), so the overlap will be the main problem, however adding the initial parameters to heat the extruder and getting the &lt;code&gt;X0&lt;/code&gt; and &lt;code&gt;Y0&lt;/code&gt; with &lt;code&gt;G1 X0 y0 Z385&lt;/code&gt; I recommend to &lt;strong&gt;increase Z by 3 or 5 mm&lt;/strong&gt;, so the extruder will travel from a higher position &lt;strong&gt;to avoid the crash going for example, from &lt;code&gt;Z390&lt;/code&gt; to &lt;code&gt;Z385&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4454" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-12-26T22:49:56.460" LastActivityDate="2020-12-26T22:49:56.460" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4873" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4884" CreationDate="2017-11-03T13:12:05.397" Score="10" ViewCount="7968" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've seen several Q&amp;amp;As on recycling and reusing plastic from failed prints, but what have you done with the last few meters of filament?  I've been keeping the ends of PLA (or sections I needed to cut) to maybe use for friction welding pieces together, but I only need so much for that.  I've considered just shoving the last bit in the tube and using a new roll to push it through (so long as retractions aren't necessary).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is especially a concern for more exotic filaments where friction welding isn't useful and the price is higher for that 1m section (something like Copperfill).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: I have a Bowden extruder.  I imagine this is less of an issue with DD extruders.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3845" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2019-08-31T08:36:47.517" LastActivityDate="2019-08-31T08:36:47.517" Title="Using the end of a spool" Tags="|filament|pla|recycling|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4874" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4873" CreationDate="2017-11-03T14:00:31.250" Score="8" Body="&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Weld the fragment to the beginning of a new spool and use it that&#xA;way.  &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.i3dinno.com/easywelder-p186486.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Most are made from metal&lt;/a&gt; so they aren't that easy to make&#xA;at home.  Here is another &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/1345/how-to-connect-filament-end-to-end&quot;&gt;answer&lt;/a&gt; that lists other methods to&#xA;weld filament including using heat shrink tubing.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;As you mentioned, you can use it for friction welding.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Use it for pin/studs/rivets/hinges in prints.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Throw it away.  1.75mm * 1Kg is about 330m of filament, 3mm * 1Kg is&#xA;about 110m of filament.  The leftover isn't worth much when you&#xA;consider how much is on a spool.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="233" LastActivityDate="2017-11-03T14:00:31.250" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4875" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-11-03T17:37:51.853" Score="3" ViewCount="9315" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to know if there is any tool/library (preferably python based) that could be used in parsing a Laz file to extract info that is normally found in 3d object files such as vertices. Which could be used to create printable 3d mesh.&#xA;I already tried Laspy and I could get the  x,y,z data from it but it is not a vertices info but rather a scale info. So I would either need a tool to give that or an algorithm for getting vertices from the data  from laspy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8919" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2020-02-13T21:41:31.643" LastActivityDate="2020-02-13T21:41:31.643" Title="Is it possible to convert a Las /Laz file into an STL or OBJ file?" Tags="|3d-models|scanning|file-formats|python|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4876" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-11-03T21:51:33.737" Score="5" ViewCount="1359" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have made a custom 3D printer with RAMPS electronics. I have printed a Benchy (ship) well, but when I try to print anything with teeth (spiral vase), gears (bearing), or a circle (rocket), the Y-axis skip steps in a regular rate giving 70-60 degrees skew along the printing the Y-direction, but each layer is perfect, this happen when printing &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:53451&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;gear bearing&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I have checked Y-axis ball bearing, motor, tension belt and  I have replaced my 6 mm glass with 1 mm without any difference in shift.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I have once make it work, but I don't why or how (I have lowered speed to 50 and did some random things).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I have printed from Pronterface and when I pause it, then home Y, the skipping in Y is corrected.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If I drive my X/Y-axis with no microstepping, then the skipping is much larger.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I only use Slic3r for G-code generation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uNGn5.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uNGn5.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;with no micro stepping&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kFu7S.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kFu7S.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;with 32 micro stepping&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uu8zT.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uu8zT.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;with 32 micro stepping&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/c7g52.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/c7g52.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;with 32 micro stepping&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0G0dq.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0G0dq.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;with 32 micro stepping&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;question:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;What is the cause for that skipping?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If there is more than one possibility, how could I check them separately?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I have changed my Y-axis motor with no change.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I have swapped X&amp;amp;Y connections with no change - still Y skips.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I have lowered jerk and max. speed and it prints gear bearing well and it is spinning, but when I tried to print spiral vase Y motor skipped.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8502" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2022-09-29T11:24:15.057" LastActivityDate="2022-09-29T11:24:15.057" Title="3D print leans in Y-axis" Tags="|diy-3d-printer|motor|y-axis|mechanics|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4877" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-11-04T01:47:44.363" Score="1" ViewCount="4862" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am working on g code for my homebrew 3d printer and i have found the line &lt;code&gt;G1 -2.000 F2400.000&lt;/code&gt;. From what i understand there should be an axis before the number and x and y shouldnt have negative. I am using grbl which is for cnc milling but and i have been deleting this line with no problems but i am wondering what it does because i will be upgrading to a &quot;real&quot; 3d printer asap&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8837" LastActivityDate="2017-11-04T20:56:58.743" Title="Meaning of G1 -2.000 F2400.000" Tags="|diy-3d-printer|g-code|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4878" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4891" CreationDate="2017-11-04T02:49:45.947" Score="7" ViewCount="3490" Body="&lt;p&gt;My Monoprice maker select recently fried its melzi board.  So I went out and purchased a ramps 1.4 kit.  I've wired it all up and Flash the firmware with marlin(most recent build).  When it boots up it boots up fine I go to prepare.  And then I go to move axis I can move the X Y and Z axis and the access is moving in the correct direction.  I go to auto home and the X and Y axis home properly but the z-axis does not move at all.  Even though I can move it manually.    Does anyone have any suggestions.  I checked the end stop for the z-axis even though I know it probably has nothing to do with it and it has continuity when the end stop switch is depressed.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8923" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-12-10T06:25:22.547" LastActivityDate="2019-12-10T06:25:22.547" Title="Z motor not moving during auto home" Tags="|marlin|z-axis|ramps-1.4|monoprice-maker-select|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4879" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4877" CreationDate="2017-11-04T06:06:51.917" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;G1 indicates a movement and -2.000 the distance, F2400.000 the feed rate mm/min, normally the &lt;strong&gt;(-)&lt;/strong&gt; values are for retraction on extrusion &lt;strong&gt;E&lt;/strong&gt;, for example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;G0 X12 (move to 12mm on the X axis)  &lt;br&gt;&#xA;G0 F1500 (Set the feedrate to 1500mm/minute) &lt;br&gt;&#xA;G1 X90.6 Y13.8 E22.4 (Move to 90.6mm on the X axis and 13.8mm on the Y axis while extruding 22.4mm of material) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;1. G1 F1500&#xA;2. G1 X50 Y25.3 E22.4&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the above example, we set the feedrate to 1500mm/minute on line 1, then move to 50mm on the X axis and 25.3mm on the Y axis while extruding 22.4mm of filament between the two points. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;1. G1 F1500&#xA;2. G1 X50 Y25.3 E22.4 F3000&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, in the above example, we set a &lt;strong&gt;feedrate of 1500 mm/minute&lt;/strong&gt; on &lt;strong&gt;line 1&lt;/strong&gt;, then do the move described above &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;accelerating to a feedrate of 3000 mm/minute&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; as it does so. The extrusion will accelerate along with the X and Y movement, so everything stays synchronized. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;So, in your case if some axis is not defined the feed rate applies to all motors.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;(part of this content is from reprap-wiki)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will see negative numbers if your starting point is on the center of the bed just like rectangular coordinates.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;G1 X-50.318 Y8.849 E11.70313 &#xA;G1 X-52.606 Y3.087 E12.26689 &#xA;G1 X-53.240 Y1.297 E12.43953 &#xA;G1 X-54.398 Y-2.097 E12.76562 &#xA;G1 X-54.683 Y-2.995 E12.85132 &#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4454" LastEditorUserId="4454" LastEditDate="2017-11-04T20:56:58.743" LastActivityDate="2017-11-04T20:56:58.743" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4880" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4877" CreationDate="2017-11-04T09:44:29.457" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;G1 -2.000 F2400.000&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is not valid G-code. As you note, &lt;code&gt;-2.000&lt;/code&gt; should be prefixed with an axis (X,Y,Z or E).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Marlin would ignore the &lt;code&gt;-2.000&lt;/code&gt; bit and simply treat the command as equivalent to&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;G1 F2400.000&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;which doesn't perform any movement, but sets the feedrate for any future moves to 2400mm/min.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;x and y shouldnt have negative&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not necessarily. Even though normally printing is done in the positive quadrant, negative values can be valid. Not only in relative movement mode, but even in absolute mode (for instance, if you set the center of your bed as (0,0) or if you use a negative z-axis offset the bring the nozzle closer to the bed).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastActivityDate="2017-11-04T09:44:29.457" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4883" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="241" CreationDate="2017-11-05T10:19:49.767" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;So it seems it's neither the PID, nor the outside wiring. It also seems unreasonable that these temperature jumps reflect reality (too quick both up and down).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You say that you have a heater mat with:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;with integrated 100k thermistor&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This seems to be a thing you haven't checked out, if it's broken / got its wires pulled out a bit, it could explain these jumps in temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Try using another thermistor, at least to see if those temperature jumps occurs with it or not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;HTH&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8328" LastActivityDate="2017-11-05T10:19:49.767" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4884" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4873" CreationDate="2017-11-05T19:50:27.183" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The welding option is only appropriate if you have the tool needed for it, the lighter welding is really hard to do and if your printer allows it you could just watch for the moment the spool runs out and push the new filament as the last of the previous one gets extruded, that's what I used to do on my bowden extruder reprap and apart from a really negligible retraction problem on one layer it just works&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or you could go the cool way:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use the last of the filament for friction/iron welding to fix or glue 3D printed parts together&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use it as regular filament with a 3D printer pen to fix 3D printed parts&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&quot;Use it for pin/studs/rivets/hinges in prints.&quot; as tjb1 said&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Stock it with your failed/ waste 3D printed parts and use them in a recyclebot later to make new filament or simply melt it in an oven to make plastic boards/injection molding material&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Throw it away but that would be a waste over time&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="802" LastActivityDate="2017-11-05T19:50:27.183" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4885" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-11-05T21:51:25.553" Score="6" ViewCount="691" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mGIr0.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mGIr0.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The wall thickness is 1,2mm but the lip is only 0,6mm thick. How will the 0,4mm nozzle solve this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively I could choose a 0,8 mm thick lip, but then the connecting end should be 0,4mm that is too thin. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8938" LastActivityDate="2017-11-06T09:46:33.533" Title="What happens when I print a 0,6mm thick wall with a 0,4mm diameter nozzle?" Tags="|nozzle|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4887" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4885" CreationDate="2017-11-06T09:27:25.127" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd say you should experiment with &lt;a href=&quot;http://slic3r.org/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Slic3r&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;it can manage extrusion in very sophisticated way&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;it can overextrude if you need a line wider than actual nozzle size&#xA;as same as it can underextrude if needed&#xA;it can even change extrusion continuously while extruding one line&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;here are simple examples&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Y9ARQ.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Y9ARQ.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ODYqr.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ODYqr.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oNCSu.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oNCSu.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;i use &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mattercontrol.com/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;mattercontrol&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;take a look here - this is the same object the same layer and the same settings&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;please notice - this object has wall thicknes exactly 2 times nozzle diam&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;here is what i get with &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;native MatterControl slicer engine which gives this slice&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yEJNq.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yEJNq.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;and Slic3r engine which gives this slice&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/h7xeG.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/h7xeG.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1211" LastEditorUserId="1211" LastEditDate="2017-11-06T09:46:33.533" LastActivityDate="2017-11-06T09:46:33.533" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4889" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2017-11-06T15:05:16.110" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-11-06T15:05:16.110" LastActivityDate="2017-11-06T15:05:16.110" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4890" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2017-11-06T15:05:16.110" Score="0" Body="This is a special tag that is designed to be used only by the system for questions that have had all of their other tags removed. Do not add this tag to existing questions, it is reserved for use by the system to identify posts with no valid tags." OwnerUserId="4808" LastEditorUserId="4808" LastEditDate="2017-11-06T23:45:44.343" LastActivityDate="2017-11-06T23:45:44.343" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4891" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4878" CreationDate="2017-11-06T18:02:36.050" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Alright, I have figured everything out with the help of #reprap IRC community.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Issue #1 - Z axis not moving during zero.  Just as tjb1 suggested the issue was that it thought it was hitting the endstop, I needed to invert the logic of the endstop within the configuration.h&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;const bool Z_MAX_ENDSTOP_INVERTING = true;&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Issue #2 - No Heated bed controls.  The issue resided with the configuration of the heated bed within the configuration.h.  The bed was not defined correctly(I do not have the solution for this one as I found a pre-configured configuration.h for the Monoprice maker Select and  after loading the firmware it worked&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Issue #3 - The extruder motor would not move.  This was the biggest issue and came down to it being a cheap RAMPS/Arduino.  E0's pinouts were not working properly so I took off the driver and wiring from E0 and put it on E1 then altered the pins_RAMPS.h and swapped the values for E1 and E0 pinouts.  after reloading the firmware the extruder then moved fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#define E0_STEP_PIN        36&#xA;#define E0_DIR_PIN         34&#xA;#define E0_ENABLE_PIN      30&#xA;&#xA;#define E1_STEP_PIN        26&#xA;#define E1_DIR_PIN         28&#xA;#define E1_ENABLE_PIN      24&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8923" LastActivityDate="2017-11-06T18:02:36.050" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4892" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4809" CreationDate="2017-11-06T18:04:21.507" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would typically shy away from downloading gcode and printing it directly.  Always slice it yourself since, inevitably, every printer is different.  What happens if the gcode is setup for ABS (higher temps) and you are printing with PLA?  If it's setup for a build platform larger than yours and you just hit endstops?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Definitely go with Aaron's idea, download a model (Thingiverse is great, but there are SO many sites where you can get files), configure a slicer for your print settings (I prefer slic3r to Cura, but both are great), slice it and print away.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3845" LastActivityDate="2017-11-06T18:04:21.507" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4893" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4846" CreationDate="2017-11-06T18:27:20.583" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well, I think this depends on your machine.  If you can support extrusion temps north of 350C and bed temps ~150C, you could try PEI:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.3dxtech.com/ultem-9085-3d-printing-filament/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.3dxtech.com/ultem-9085-3d-printing-filament/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I believe PEI has self-lubricating properties, and has outgassing of ~0.40% TML (PET is ~0.43%).  Of course, most off-the-shelf printers don't handle that sort of temp range.  But then, industrial grade materials are likely to require industrial grade machines.  :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could compare other DBs to NASA's as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Outgassing DB:  &lt;a href=&quot;http://esmat.esa.int/materialframe.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://esmat.esa.int/materialframe.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By the way, Nylon has an outgassing aspect &gt;2.0% TML, which is definitely on the high side for vacuum applications.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3845" LastActivityDate="2017-11-06T18:27:20.583" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4894" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4895" CreationDate="2017-11-06T18:55:24.293" Score="1" ViewCount="1048" Body="&lt;p&gt;octoprint seems to have a setting that involves googles DNS server.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;my question is is that server used to access octoprint over the internet via printoid &quot;android app&quot; or via browser? if not then what does it mean?&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MWTnq.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MWTnq.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8948" LastActivityDate="2017-11-09T23:07:06.560" Title="Octoprint “using Google's DNS server”" Tags="|octoprint|raspberry-pi|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4895" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4894" CreationDate="2017-11-06T18:59:31.890" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The program is pinging that address to check the internet connection to &quot;prevent resource intensive operations if it's already clear that they won't succeed anyhow&quot;.  It checks for connectivity, if it has it then it will check for update otherwise it won't check for an update.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="233" LastActivityDate="2017-11-06T18:59:31.890" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4896" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-11-06T20:05:52.997" Score="1" ViewCount="125" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 3d printer that is homebuilt with salvaged parts. Occasionally there is some kind of error and when i start my code the minute it starts it max out on x and y axis and continues to do it until i kill the connection and reset everything. I have found that when i put G21 G90 into the first line of the file it doesnt do this anymore. But I'm wondering if i can &quot;teach&quot; my machine how far it can go before it stops? I am using &quot;grbl controller&quot; to send g-code to my arduino uno woth grbl loaded onto it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8837" LastActivityDate="2017-11-07T18:02:05.527" Title="How to tell machine how far travel limits without switches" Tags="|diy-3d-printer|g-code|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4897" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4876" CreationDate="2017-11-06T20:15:31.117" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would assume it is either the stepper driver or the stepper motor. Try switching the motor wires for x and y axis and see if the problem stays with the motor or the driver. If its not physically getting hung up then this is likely. I had the same problem with my y axis and after switching the motor it was gone. It would only skip steps in one direction and that seems to be exactly whats going on. Most likely it was caused by bad windings on 1 of the 2 coils inside the stepper motor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8837" LastActivityDate="2017-11-06T20:15:31.117" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4898" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4894" CreationDate="2017-11-06T21:23:43.690" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;That's just Google's DNS (name resolution) server.  8.8.8.8 and 8.8.4.4 are the Google values.  Your ISP will also have a DNS server that you could use, which is what it says to use Google's &quot;if you don't know what to set here&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using the Google values are your best bet since they'll pretty much absolutely always be online and available.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3845" LastActivityDate="2017-11-06T21:23:43.690" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4899" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-11-07T03:00:31.547" Score="1" ViewCount="125" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am trying to understand what is the robust and clean way to calibrate structured light 3d scanner system. I have two cameras placed to be working as stereo and a projector between them. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found the methods:&#xA; - Just stereo camera calibration&#xA; - 1 camera - 1 projector calibration&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What about 2 camera and 1 projector calibration? Which way should be followed for calibration of this total system?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition to them I would control the 2 axis arm to rotate object and get complete set of point cloud. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8950" LastActivityDate="2017-11-07T03:00:31.547" Title="Stereo Camera and Projector Calibration for 3D Scanner" Tags="|calibration|scanning|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4900" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-11-07T04:01:31.617" Score="4" ViewCount="1735" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Prusa i3 (from FLSun). I have assembled the printer, calibrated it (fairly decently), and have successfully demonstrated extrusion manually. However, when I try to run a print job (the G-code clearly contains E commands), the extruder motor never rotates. Is this a common problem? Any suggestsions for how to resolve/troubleshoot?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can confirm that the extruder was pre-heated for PLA (up to a generous 220 C).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I load  an STL file into Repetier v.1.0.2, use the built-in slicer (Slic3r) to generate the G-code. I include a sample of that below:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;; generated by Slic3r 1.2.9 on 2017-11-08 at 10:54:07&#xA;&#xA;; external perimeters extrusion width = 0.50mm&#xA;; perimeters extrusion width = 0.72mm&#xA;; infill extrusion width = 0.72mm&#xA;; solid infill extrusion width = 0.72mm&#xA;; top infill extrusion width = 0.72mm&#xA;&#xA;M107&#xA;M104 S200 ; set temperature&#xA;G28 ; home all axes&#xA;G1 Z5 F5000 ; lift nozzle&#xA;&#xA;M109 S200 ; wait for temperature to be reached&#xA;G21 ; set units to millimeters&#xA;G90 ; use absolute coordinates&#xA;M82 ; use absolute distances for extrusion&#xA;G92 E0&#xA;G1 Z0.350 F7800.000&#xA;G1 E-2.00000 F2400.00000&#xA;G92 E0&#xA;G1 X76.952 Y76.952 F7800.000&#xA;G1 E2.00000 F2400.00000&#xA;G1 X78.055 Y75.850 E2.04824 F1800.000&#xA;G1 X78.650 Y75.324 E2.07282&#xA;G1 X81.121 Y73.387 E2.16997&#xA;G1 X81.780 Y72.933 E2.19472&#xA;G1 X84.467 Y71.309 E2.29186&#xA;G1 X85.167 Y70.940 E2.31635&#xA;G1 X88.143 Y69.602 E2.41730&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As an update, I can no longer reliably get the extruder motor to run (even when I pre-heat) from the LCD. Sometimes, it works fine, but other times it doesn't seem to. Will confirm whether switching the motor connector to the z-axis to test the motor works when I get home this evening.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can confirm 1) that there is no tension pulling on the cable connections during the run, 2) the mainboard and motor connector aren't burned, cracked, and the mosfets have heatsinks on them, and 3) the extruder gear is fixed and rotates freely on the motor axis (I tested this by switching it over to the z-axis connection temporarily and confirming rotation).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a photo of my motherboard:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gRdQp.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gRdQp.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;A photo of my motherboard&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8015" LastEditorUserId="8015" LastEditDate="2017-11-13T01:09:43.267" LastActivityDate="2018-05-13T14:11:08.143" Title="Extruder motor not running during print job but working after I preheat the extruder and test it" Tags="|prusa-i3|extruder|extruder-driver|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4901" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4900" CreationDate="2017-11-07T06:04:59.460" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This should have been a comment: when you say &quot;manual extrusion&quot;, do you mean moving filament by hand or using extruder position commands from printer menu? Is extruder motor working at all? You can for example plug it instead of a Z-motor to check.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Suggested points to check:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Motor wire connections, both on extruder and mainboard. Are plugs experiencing tension (being tilted, pulled out) from improperly fixed cables?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hardware on mainboard next to motor connector. Does it look burned, cracked, lacks heatsinks on mosfets?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is extruder gear not fixed and rotating freely on extruder motor axis? You will hear sound of working motor, but it will look like it's not pulling the filament.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8847" LastEditorUserId="8847" LastEditDate="2017-11-09T03:14:57.893" LastActivityDate="2017-11-09T03:14:57.893" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4904" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-11-07T17:12:26.207" Score="6" ViewCount="875" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've recently bought an Anet A8, and haven't been getting good prints with it. I noticed there was filament leaking from the top of the hot end and pooling, eventually dripping over onto my prints. I took the hot end off to clean it, and when I put it back on and tightened it, my printer wouldn't extrude anymore. I took the motor apart, and there was a lot of filament shavings inside. I tried tightening the screw that splits the bearing and gear that feeds the filament since I thought it may be getting caught in there. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can manually push filament through and it works fine. There's no jam, so I'm thinking it IS something to do with that, but I don't really know what to do. Now that I've done this also, I feel as if I've screwed up the e steps. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8958" LastEditorUserId="9134" LastEditDate="2018-02-09T15:28:53.557" LastActivityDate="2018-04-10T16:33:45.230" Title="Filament not extruding" Tags="|prusa-i3|extrusion|anet-a8|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4905" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4896" CreationDate="2017-11-07T18:02:05.527" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since 3D printers works with coodinates and the gcode generator requires the origin point and bed shape and bed size. knowing this your programs never will be out of the printing area.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My printer has a printing area of 16.5 x 16.5 cm, so I set this parameter to CURA, Slic3r and 3dsimplify and I can't generate the gcode if the part does not fit on the bed. So I print parts with 15cm maximum&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also the firmware has this limits to 16cm, the 0.5 cm is just for safety&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course if I send a command with pronterface or any other gbrl controler I can go over the limits due the X0Y0 could be out of position (offset), but if you respect the origin point and don't try to go over the limits by yourself the machine will be ok.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4454" LastActivityDate="2017-11-07T18:02:05.527" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4907" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4913" CreationDate="2017-11-07T20:11:57.840" Score="2" ViewCount="60" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was looking at the prusa i3 3d(the original i3, not the mk2) on sale and I wanted to know how I could tell if it(and printers like it) had a replaceable nozzle, since I wanted to try out different nozzle sizes, and I need to be able to use a .1 mm nozzle for micro armor 3D printing(8mm height miniatures, I'm not too picky about their appearance) so anyways, does anyone know how to tell if a printer has a replaceable nozzle?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8877" LastEditorUserId="8877" LastEditDate="2017-11-07T21:54:58.797" LastActivityDate="2017-11-08T09:28:36.077" Title="How to tell if A 3d printing kit has a replaceable nozzle" Tags="|prusa-i3|nozzle|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4908" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4921" CreationDate="2017-11-07T21:18:06.827" Score="3" ViewCount="2313" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just got an Anet A8 and I'm pretty happy with it except for one small detail:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1AFWX.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;First layers of a print&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1AFWX.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;First layers of a print&quot; title=&quot;First layers of a print&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All my prints start like this. I tried to :&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;pre-heat the printer ❌&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;add a smaller height of the first layer ❌&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I’m kinda new to this and i did not find a correct answer to my problem so here’s my Cura configuration:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MD6mN.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Cura config&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MD6mN.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Cura config&quot; title=&quot;Cura config&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7892" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2018-09-16T12:42:01.083" LastActivityDate="2018-09-16T12:42:01.083" Title="Anet A8 - first couple of layer are trash" Tags="|print-quality|anet-a8|layer-height|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4909" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-11-08T05:26:57.463" Score="2" ViewCount="727" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to use a binary protocol like Repetier uses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can Marlin work with this/such a protocol?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7051" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-10-05T08:50:37.057" LastActivityDate="2020-10-05T08:50:37.057" Title="Is Marlin capable to work with binary G-code?" Tags="|marlin|g-code|repetier|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4910" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4909" CreationDate="2017-11-08T07:16:14.213" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;No. Marlin only supports ASCII G-code, and does not (currently) support binary format. According to the &lt;a href=&quot;http://reprap.org/wiki/List_of_Firmware&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;List of Firmware&lt;/a&gt;, Repetier is the only firmware that supports binary G-code. Moreover, verifying with Marlin's source code, shows that the &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/blob/1.1.x/Marlin/gcode.cpp&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;G-code parser&lt;/a&gt; can only handle traditional G-code.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastActivityDate="2017-11-08T07:16:14.213" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4911" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-11-08T08:15:56.103" Score="3" ViewCount="1458" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have .stl for the 3d printing. And I want to analysis wall thickness of this model before printing. I have no idea about any tools. Can I create any console or wpf app for calculating wall thickness and cost of the printing. &#xA;Please help me.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8962" LastActivityDate="2017-12-12T06:41:35.747" Title="How to implement wall thickness Analysis for my .net project" Tags="|3d-models|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4913" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4907" CreationDate="2017-11-08T09:28:36.077" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Prusa has a replacable nozzle. Usually all printer does have an replacable nozzle. Since this is a part of a printer which could get jammed during a printer life. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As written here: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.prusaprinters.org/prusa-i3-is-now-1-75-mm/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.prusaprinters.org/prusa-i3-is-now-1-75-mm/&lt;/a&gt; The Prusa i3 uses an E3D Hotend. This Hotend has many diffenez nozzles. You can search on E**ay for E3D V6 0.1mm nozzle and you will find a lot of offers. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8966" LastActivityDate="2017-11-08T09:28:36.077" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4914" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4876" CreationDate="2017-11-08T10:12:36.323" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Maybe your motor skips?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had my Z motor skip sometimes, this was the reason:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) Acceleration was too high&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) I needed to tune the &quot;amperage&quot; (the current) of the pololu driver&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3) Speed was too high&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, you can try to lower acceleration, speed and tune your driver:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Power on everything, see if you can turn the motor by hand (you shouldn't).&#xA;Turn the small potentiometer on the driver board counter clockwise until you can turn the motor, turn it back until you can't turn the motor any more and then add some 1/8 - 1/4 turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might also want to check your 'jerk' settings so they are not too high either.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8328" LastEditorUserId="8328" LastEditDate="2017-11-08T10:25:27.373" LastActivityDate="2017-11-08T10:25:27.373" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4915" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-11-08T10:13:57.053" Score="5" ViewCount="564" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am rebuilding the electronics for an old Reprap with a RAMPS 1.4 setup. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I plug in just the Arduino/RAMPS board into either 12&amp;nbsp;V or USB then it starts up fine, I can see this when I have the screen plugged in. However, when I start to add driver boards, the screen begins to dim. After I have three boards plugged in the power starts to drop to the point that the Arduino powers off and restarts, even when the screen is not plugged in. I have had this problem with two sets of RAMPS boards and Arduinos and with a combination of 7 different driver boards plugged into different combinations of location.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has anyone else had any similar issues or have an idea of what might be going on? Any ideas are welcome, I am just about at my wits end with this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8968" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-08-15T09:27:29.973" LastActivityDate="2018-08-15T09:27:29.973" Title="RAMPS 1.4 losing power with more than 3 drivers mounted" Tags="|ramps-1.4|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4916" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-11-08T11:10:32.850" Score="3" ViewCount="1998" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there a way where my upload folder on my OctoPrint server would be a folder on my Google drive so that I could save my G-code that was generated using Simplify3d to an existing folder on my desktop at which it would then automatically be uploaded into my RPi via the internet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or maybe a watched folder that can be accessed via internet?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8948" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-11-06T22:07:50.840" LastActivityDate="2018-11-06T22:08:22.000" Title="Connecting my OctoPrint to a Google drive folder" Tags="|octoprint|simplify3d|raspberry-pi|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4917" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4918" CreationDate="2017-11-08T12:28:51.957" Score="4" ViewCount="1083" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am using a STRATASYS Fortus 250mc to 3D print some parts. I have read a lot on internet and also on some scientific literature that Acetone dissolves ABS and cold/hot vapor has been successfully used to smoothen the surfaces. But it doesn't work for me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I followed the instructions: soaking some papers with Acetone and putting the parts in a closed container with a fan for some time. But it had no effects. Then I tried dipping the parts in Acetone and I observed that they do not react to the substance at all!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has anybody ever had a similar experience? Maybe ABSPlus-p430 is not soluble with Acetone? in that case what is a solvent for it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I asked the same question &lt;a href=&quot;https://goo.gl/HNvgYH&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here on Reddit&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6998" LastEditorUserId="6998" LastEditDate="2017-11-08T12:36:32.890" LastActivityDate="2017-11-08T14:20:09.113" Title="Acetone smoothing not working on ABSPlus-P430" Tags="|abs|smoothing|vapor-smoothing|acetone|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4918" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4917" CreationDate="2017-11-08T14:20:09.113" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Make sure that your acetone is actually acetone. According to &lt;a href=&quot;http://usglobalimages.stratasys.com/Main/Files/SDS/P430_ABS_M30_ABS_Model/400626_0002_REV_A_EN.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;the MSDS&lt;/a&gt;, ABSPlus-P430 is indeed &quot;ABS resin&quot; so acetone smoothing should work. Some companies sell confusingly-labeled products that might be mistaken for acetone, but are actually &quot;eco-friendly&quot; alternatives such as 2-butoxyethanol. While these alternatives work for some of the uses for which acetone is normally used (such as cleaning or degreasing), they don't work for smoothing ABS.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastActivityDate="2017-11-08T14:20:09.113" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4919" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4961" CreationDate="2017-11-08T14:56:14.000" Score="1" ViewCount="200" Body="&lt;p&gt;We need a 3D printer, that can print with plastic suitable for medical applications. We have about $5000 for the printer. What printers can we choose? I am not a specialist in 3D printing, so please answer in detail. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We need to print breathing tubes with cuffs. The tubes should be flexible, but rigid enough in order not to collapse. The cuff material should be thin and collapsible, but very strong. Breathing tubes are inserted through the mouth and stay in contact with mucous membrane for many hours.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8970" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-07-06T13:47:03.100" LastActivityDate="2018-07-06T13:47:03.100" Title="Inexpensive 3D printer for medical applications" Tags="|material|medical|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4920" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4911" CreationDate="2017-11-08T16:22:47.997" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If your talking about a hollow object, such as a cube with a hollow center. The wall thickness is determined by the model.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your talking about a solid object, the wall thickness is determined by your nozzle diameter multiplied by your # of walls. This is all adjusted by your splicing software. If you have a nozzle of 0.5mm and you print at 3 perimeters, your wall should be 1.5mm. If you want the wall to be 2mm, then you will adjust your perimeters to 4. Everything within those walls will be whatever you choose for infill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I work with ASP.NET, Windows Forms, and Console Apps myself. I'm sure you can find libraries capable of taking 3D models but I don't think it would matter because the printed thickness is determined by your splicing settings. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also for cost of printing, I recommend just using Cura which you just have to plug in some cost information about the filament and it will tell you estimated cost, mm of filament usage, and time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8725" LastActivityDate="2017-11-08T16:22:47.997" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4921" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4908" CreationDate="2017-11-08T16:35:22.900" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think your issue is bed leveling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I recently got my Anet A8 and the biggest kill for my print quality is bed leveling. If its too far from the nozzle, I get something like your picture. You might want to try the paper test where you manually move the nozzle to each corner of the bed and adjust the bed till the paper cannot move freely between the bed and nozzle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8725" LastActivityDate="2017-11-08T16:35:22.900" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4923" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-11-09T12:59:46.333" Score="4" ViewCount="1551" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I have a 3D cylindrical extrusion (in Onshape), how can I scoop, carve, or indent a concave/parabolic curve in one of the ends?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The yellow surface is the target.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/80wQB.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/80wQB.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Object&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;Here is the basic shape I'm trying to bore out (like a satellite dish, parabolic antenna, or even a contact lens.. You get the idea).&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cbthB.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cbthB.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Void&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8981" LastActivityDate="2017-12-13T00:56:57.397" Title="How to concave a cylinder with Onshape?" Tags="|3d-models|3d-design|extrusion|cad|surface|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4924" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4926" CreationDate="2017-11-09T16:37:45.607" Score="3" ViewCount="165" Body="&lt;p&gt;We are using a Prusa i3 MK2 printer in a structural design firm to print the buildings we design as well as print individual panels and components. Projects can have 100s of pieces that need to be printed quickly, but the printer cools of quickly after the print finishes. When we go to start the next print we have to wait 10-15 minutes for the printer to warm up again. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We tried preheating it using the built in function hoping that it would keep the heaters on after the print is complete but had no success. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any way to set the printer to stay warm after the print to be able to quickly print back to back?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8986" LastActivityDate="2017-11-09T17:21:45.170" Title="Always keep printer hot and ready to print" Tags="|prusa-i3|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4925" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-11-09T16:38:14.603" Score="5" ViewCount="526" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to create a 3D printer based on this instructable, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.instructables.com/id/eWaste-60-3DPrinter/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;EWaste 60$ 3DPrinter&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have followed the steps provided there, and I'm facing the problem that the x-axis isn't able to move, i.e. the motor works fine but the z-axis part which is connected to x-axis doesn't move left and right. I have tried the following already:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Changed the design of 3d printer by attaching x-axis with y-axis and leaving z-axis separately&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I gave a little force to the z-axis part and it starts to move left and right.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any help on this would be appreciated!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bQ8lwm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bQ8lwm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;3d printer&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VWOHwm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VWOHwm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;z axis connected with x axis&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8985" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2018-11-29T09:28:25.593" LastActivityDate="2019-04-20T23:07:15.683" Title="Missing print steps in e-waste 3d printer" Tags="|diy-3d-printer|troubleshooting|e-waste|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4926" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4924" CreationDate="2017-11-09T17:21:45.170" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just set values in your end code for your slicer.  Set the bed to the temp you use, set the nozzle to roughly the Tg temp of the filament you use.  Typically the bed heatup time is the worst offender here.  I wouldn't keep the nozzle at extruding temps, though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3845" LastActivityDate="2017-11-09T17:21:45.170" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4927" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4928" CreationDate="2017-11-09T17:33:13.327" Score="8" ViewCount="2094" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have built a 3D printer out of parts from my tip, a ramps board, arduino mega, and a hot end. However, after doing a test extrusion some plastic was spewed out and then the print jammed un-expectantly and my homemade extruder no longer had the strength to push the filament. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I took the filament out and what I found was that the filament going into the extruder had formed a cylinder at the end. Then after pushing the filament through by hand to eliminate the possibility of my  weak extruder, I found that the filament was expanding coming out of the filament, and then cooling down unable to go through. I cut the filament, removing the bloated end, pushed it back into the extruder and then again after 30 seconds the same problem occurred. &#xA;After researching, I came to the conclusion that maybe there is a gap allowing filament to go out of the heating area, expand and then cool down, or even my wooden direct to bowden adapter is stopping the filament cooling causing it to clog. However I am not sure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am becoming frustrated as I am doing this for a school project, I only have two weeks left to finish and everything seems to be failing. Any help would be much appreciated. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For reference this is my hotend:  &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B074DRLGW9/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;psc=1.&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;link to amazon&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;I brought the cheapest one available on amazon, so it has no fan and no way to connect a bowden tube. I have created a basic adapter between the thread and a bowden tube holder, out of wood. It's not good but it does the job.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a picture of my hot end and what the filament looks like after I removed it. There appears to be a spiral shape on some of them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kNKgu.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kNKgu.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iXpBG.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iXpBG.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8989" LastEditorUserId="8989" LastEditDate="2017-11-10T06:28:16.830" LastActivityDate="2017-11-10T19:35:03.540" Title="Hot end jamming very quickly" Tags="|diy-3d-printer|hotend|extrusion|nozzle|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4928" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4927" CreationDate="2017-11-09T17:53:38.227" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;You are suffering from what is called &quot;heat creep&quot;. Molten filament is creeping up the heat break and into the bowden tube, where it is causing a jam. You need to install a proper radiator block that is cooled by a fan, not just a lump of wood as a &quot;cold end&quot;. The cold end is not just a connector, its primary purpose is to act as a cooler. A hot end on its own is not enough. You also need a cold end. Here is my extruder disassembled (fan omitted). The radiator block is the red item.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ngeW7.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ngeW7.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3953" LastEditorUserId="3953" LastEditDate="2017-11-09T18:04:27.523" LastActivityDate="2017-11-09T18:04:27.523" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4929" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4923" CreationDate="2017-11-09T17:54:08.070" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;As is typical with many CAD type programs, a feature in Onshape known as revolve may be your solution. As you have a clear formula for the cross-section, half of the work is complete. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You would generate a sketch representing the curve, then use the Revolve feature with the axis oriented to vertical. According to the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.onshape.com/videos/revolve&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Onshape video&lt;/a&gt;, you can generate a solid or a surface from the options that appear when selecting that feature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HscXP.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HscXP.png&quot; alt=&quot;sketch before revolve&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YCvNK.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YCvNK.png&quot; alt=&quot;sketch after revolve&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you can see in the images above, the axis selected in the tutorial video is horizontal. Other features of revolve are covered in the video. Your post suggests it will also be necessary to perform a subtraction action on the assembly in order to get the scoop/concave result.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastActivityDate="2017-11-09T17:54:08.070" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4932" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4552" CreationDate="2017-11-10T12:52:49.033" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you want to replace the PINDA probe (whatever reason for) then you can go with the BLTouch Sensor but only for certain operations. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It will be good for leveling the bed before printing because here, only the bed level is important and not the skew of the bed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it comes to calibration of the skew itself, the BLTouch Sensor will not be usable because the PINDA Probe detects the boundaries of the copper circles on the print bed. The BLTouch cannot detect these copper areas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The PINDA Probe is a proximity sensor. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to do a recalibration you have to mount the PINDA again. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Therefore, it is possible but not recommended. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8966" LastEditorUserId="8966" LastEditDate="2017-11-10T22:22:14.443" LastActivityDate="2017-11-10T22:22:14.443" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4933" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4799" CreationDate="2017-11-10T12:56:15.770" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Its mainly due to the regulation loop of the PID Regulator implemented in the Firmware of the Da vinci jr. The P-Factor is a little bit too high. This is the reason why the temperature &quot;overshoots&quot;. Because the Printerhead and Nozzle has some volume which is heated up. It takes time to cool down after it has detected an overshoot. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;here you can find additional informations about it: &lt;a href=&quot;https://innovativecontrols.com/blog/basics-tuning-pid-loops&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://innovativecontrols.com/blog/basics-tuning-pid-loops&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8966" LastActivityDate="2017-11-10T12:56:15.770" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4934" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4940" CreationDate="2017-11-10T16:45:53.553" Score="3" ViewCount="674" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm struggling to connect a K8200 printer to a rpi3 running repetier-server 0.86.2 armhf.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Everything works fine on a PC with the 0.86.2 windows version, but on the Rpi i'm stuck on the second step of the printer setup : &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I define my firmware, Marlin, my baudRate at 250000, then I tried every port that seems involved (/dev/serial/by-id/usb-FTDI_FT231X_USB_UART_DA00DDXD-if00-port0, /dev/serial/by-path/platform-3f980000.usb-usb-0:1.2:1.0-port0, /dev/tty/USB0, /dev/tty/AMA0, )&#xA;but whatever I may try, I'm stuck on &quot;En attente de connexion&quot;, that forbids me to go to step 3, as to see my printer connected.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried to use the reset button on the printer board, as unplugging-plugging the USB, with no more luck.&#xA;/var/lib/Repetier-Server/logs/server.log don't shown any error.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note : CartesianVirtual port still works fine...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What else can I do ? Is there other relevant logs anywhere ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm unsure if this question should have been adressed to rpi, 3d printing or linux community, I'm sorry if I offend anyone :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8996" LastEditorUserId="8996" LastEditDate="2017-11-10T16:52:52.470" LastActivityDate="2018-06-09T01:48:36.867" Title="Can't connect printer to repetier-server on RPI3" Tags="|marlin|repetier|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4935" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4946" CreationDate="2017-11-10T18:34:40.830" Score="3" ViewCount="391" Body="&lt;p&gt;My Y-axis on my Monoprice maker select running ramps 1.4 and Marlin makes a thud noise when moving every now and then.  I have noticed a 1 to 2 mm shift in the print when this occurs.  I tighten the belts and alas no joy.  I ordered new bearings which should be coming Monday.  I also tried slowing the print down and still get the same result.  Anyone have any ideas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8923" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-06-05T13:25:11.977" LastActivityDate="2018-06-05T13:25:11.977" Title="Y-axis slipping causing failed prints" Tags="|marlin|ramps-1.4|y-axis|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4936" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4904" CreationDate="2017-11-10T18:56:34.837" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The spindle screws on the gear are shipped not tight enough. Try taking the fan off and make sure the gear is seated properly and tighten the screws down. Here's a video that might help. &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/zkZKzF3J3NA&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://youtu.be/zkZKzF3J3NA&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8837" LastActivityDate="2017-11-10T18:56:34.837" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4937" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4927" CreationDate="2017-11-10T19:35:03.540" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hello it's seems that your hotend's barrel get's too hot when your ar printing, have you try to make a heat sink on the barrell, with some washers and nuts? That worked for me, like this&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bmfpm.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bmfpm.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I Took that idea from this video &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UvICpdVONXM&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UvICpdVONXM&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also make sure that the hotend's  aluminum block is properly insulated, you could do this with some Kapton Tape.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8999" LastActivityDate="2017-11-10T19:35:03.540" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4938" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4935" CreationDate="2017-11-10T20:33:02.583" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;A thudding noise is usually a belt slipping through its end-restraints. A clicking noise is usually a stepper motor missing a step. Seized bearings could be the cause.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3953" LastActivityDate="2017-11-10T20:33:02.583" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4940" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4934" CreationDate="2017-11-10T21:34:33.683" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Thanks to the repetier team on git hub, we found that the problem came from a permission issue on /dev/ttyUSB0, as the user &lt;code&gt;repetierserver&lt;/code&gt; couldn't access it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other people reported that these commands solves the problem:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;code&gt;sudo adduser repetierserver dialout&lt;/code&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;code&gt;sudo adduser repetierserver tty&lt;/code&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;but in my case it seems I need to run :&#xA;&lt;code&gt;sudo chmod 777 /dev/ttyUSB0&lt;/code&gt;&#xA;in order to solve this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8996" LastActivityDate="2017-11-10T21:34:33.683" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4941" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4942" CreationDate="2017-11-11T01:24:13.490" Score="2" ViewCount="265" Body="&lt;p&gt;Recently my printer has been creating double images along the X-axis, I just printed a calibration cube after checking all of my rods to make sure nothing was catching and here was my result:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vAqB6.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vAqB6.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Calibration Cube&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;It looks like there is another X to the right of the X that is supposed to be, would this be a retraction problem, or could it be a problem with the filament because I printed a calibration cube with another filament a couple of weeks ago and there was no double X.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6135" LastActivityDate="2017-11-11T04:02:06.333" Title="Double Image Along X Axis" Tags="|prusa-i3|pla|ramps-1.4|calibration|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4942" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4941" CreationDate="2017-11-11T03:46:19.287" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I agree with @FernandoBaltazar. You have several things going on. If the problem is recent, you may have loose belts, but you may also need to perform acceleration and jerk tuning. Reducing your print speeds may also help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3953" LastActivityDate="2017-11-11T03:46:19.287" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4943" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4941" CreationDate="2017-11-11T04:02:06.333" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are several problems, but lets start with a method for discovering them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first thing to do is look for any looseness or slop in the mechanism.  Try wiggling the hot end, looking for any free movement.  Try moving along the axes that move.  You haven't specified the machine, so I can't suggest the specific points to try moving.  If the bed moves, try wiggling the bed.  If the extruder moves, try wiggling the extruder on each movement axis.  Nothing should move at all until the motors skip.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the mechanism is fully tight (and from this picture, I expect it to have some &quot;wiggle room&quot;), you could follow by slowing the machine, including reducing the acceleration settings.  If you find something moving, you'll need to investigate why -- what is allowing the movement to happen.  On a belt-driven machine, the belts can be loose, but one can also get movement from loose set screws, motor mounts, hot-ends which are coming apart, or loose thrust bearings or nuts on threaded shafts.  Applying force to the parts that move during printing and watching for movement is the best diagnostic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the future, when asking questions it can be helpful to include the type of machine, any modifications you've made, and information about the printing conditions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2082" LastActivityDate="2017-11-11T04:02:06.333" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4944" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5031" CreationDate="2017-11-11T11:22:26.400" Score="2" ViewCount="95" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a problem with Z direction. As you know it has two motors. And my problem is that one sometimes goes to the different direction (so basically one is screwing and another one unscrewing). It is like random, sometimes it is ok, sometimes this one goes to the different direction. Could you help me, please? Wiring is like in building tutorial. The tutorial is here &lt;a href=&quot;http://reprap.org/wiki/ToyREP_Build_Manual&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://reprap.org/wiki/ToyREP_Build_Manual&lt;/a&gt; . I am using Marlin and Pronterface. Code I took here &lt;a href=&quot;http://reprap.org/wiki/ToyREP_User_Manual&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://reprap.org/wiki/ToyREP_User_Manual&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8909" LastEditorUserId="8909" LastEditDate="2017-11-11T11:34:08.287" LastActivityDate="2017-11-26T19:02:51.583" Title="Z motors work synchronously ToyRep" Tags="|ramps-1.4|reprap|z-axis|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4945" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-11-11T15:17:25.430" Score="6" ViewCount="4908" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to print a object that looks like a flat board with a set of matchbox-like lumps on top of it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have written a script that outputs an STL file. To keep the script simple, it creates an object that includes non-manifold edges. To be precise, the board and the boxes are a single model, but each has 6 faces made from 2 triangles. The underside of each matchbox rests on the top of the larger flat board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I understand correctly, the top face of the board should be broken up into many smaller triangles to take into account the position of the matchboxes, but coding this by hand (although it might be an interesting Exercise For The Reader) would not be a good use of time. Well-written code that already does this is built into FOSS applications like Blender.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, Blender cannot merge or fuse shapes that are part of the same object. My current understanding is that I will need to:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Provide Blender with multiple objects&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Select all the objects&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use Ctrl-J to merge them&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Export the world in STL format&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this a valid approach?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If so, my key question is: how do I format the STL file so that Blender will recognize that it contains multiple separate objects?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(I have found references to STL files containing multiple objects, but I have seen nothing in any of the STL files that I have examined that tells me: here is the end of one object and the beginning of another.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or should I just be clunky and export two STL files — one for the board and one for all the matchboxes — and then import both into Blender?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;NOTE: I know that there are free services like &lt;a href=&quot;https://service.netfabb.com/login.php&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Netfabb&lt;/a&gt; that will correct my simple files for me, but I would prefer not to include that in my workflow if possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9005" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2020-07-13T10:34:45.857" LastActivityDate="2020-07-13T10:34:45.857" Title="Outputting an STL file that contains multiple objects for import into Blender" Tags="|stl|file-formats|blender|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4946" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4935" CreationDate="2017-11-12T00:36:45.440" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The issue was the X-axis top smooth rod came out.  this caused the extruder to bang around and shift on the Y-axis when it shifted forward. thank everyone for their help. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8923" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-06-05T13:24:33.727" LastActivityDate="2018-06-05T13:24:33.727" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4948" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4949" CreationDate="2017-11-12T14:23:07.923" Score="1" ViewCount="747" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use the Cura; nylon default(recommended) settings for PETG. Upon my filament's box is written 200-240 for nozzle and 75-85 for bed. So I tried 245/80 - 220/80 - 220/60 - 245/60.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I got same result as you can see in the pics:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lKKgN.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lKKgN.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/J3CVi.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/J3CVi.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My printer is PrusaI3 (actually a chinese kit that I assembled it myself). Also I had good print results with PLA before this. I was using 190/50 for PLA).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9013" LastActivityDate="2017-11-12T17:25:11.947" Title="It seems my filament is burnt when I use PETG" Tags="|prusa-i3|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4949" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4948" CreationDate="2017-11-12T15:56:34.867" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It looks like you have a clogged nozzle/hot end. I use 225°C @ 40mm/s for PETG with 235°C @ 30mm/s for the first layer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you print at 245°C, you risk burning the PTFE liner in your hot end. You really need an all-metal hot end to print at such temperatures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is possible that you have already damaged the PTFE liner, and this may be the cause of your problem. However, I would check for a clogged nozzle first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3953" LastEditorUserId="3953" LastEditDate="2017-11-12T17:25:11.947" LastActivityDate="2017-11-12T17:25:11.947" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4950" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4984" CreationDate="2017-11-12T17:15:32.713" Score="3" ViewCount="293" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a PrusaI3(Chinese kit that I assembled myself). my strange problem is that: when I try to leveling the bed, upper-left and bottom-right corners of the bed, are more far than the nozzle, respect to upper-right and bottom-left.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know why, but I can't level them with the screws(because upper-left and bottom-right screws goes to be free sooner than their opposite side screws!!). I thought maybe the heated bed is not flat but I use a glass upon it! and it's not possible both of them are not flat! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: I can remember the last time I used my printer, there was a knocking sound when Y-AXIS was moving about the half of it's way. I very tried to find the cause of knocking sound but I couldn't. now, I have opened the heating bed and there is no sound when I move Y-Axis by hand. &#xA;I hope you can understand me and help me too!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT2: I did measure the rods and bed corners, I found that this corner(pointed by finger) is about 2 millimeters lower than other 3 corners! (It seems the bed part is not flat). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sGjix.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sGjix.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I fix this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9013" LastEditorUserId="9013" LastEditDate="2017-11-13T05:59:19.403" LastActivityDate="2017-11-15T21:06:19.343" Title="Strange leveling problem by PrusaI3" Tags="|heated-bed|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4951" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1247" CreationDate="2017-11-12T17:41:33.017" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;I ask myself why people hassle with kapton tape when it is so easy to use teflon sealing tape to isulate the hotend. This tape is slightly foamed to allow better sealing when used for sealing &quot;tube threads&quot;. It can be purchased anywhere for very little money and can stand up to 260° Celsius constantly and 300 ° for a short time (according to its data sheet) This shoud be sufficient for most applications. Water installation PTFE tape is very easy to apply because its soft and can be stretched to the right form. And it sticks for its own without extra glue. No hassle like with the stiff kapton tape. And the isolation is much better because of the air bubbles inside the tape. I did that on my extruder and it works perfectly. My extruder heats now up about 20% faster. I applied this tape in installed position within 5 minutes - easy !&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rzC78.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rzC78.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Teflon tape isolated extruder&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9014" LastActivityDate="2017-11-12T17:41:33.017" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4952" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4950" CreationDate="2017-11-13T03:02:40.637" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Prusha I3 design uses two rods to guide the Y axis, which moves along the rods on linear bearings.  If the rods are not strictly planar, there will be movement of the bed as it moves to and fro.  You would not be able to correct this with the leveling screws.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Be sure that the rods are planar, and that there is no torque on the bed from uneven rods.  Even if the bed doesn't flex, the frame may flex if the rods are not planar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2082" LastActivityDate="2017-11-13T03:02:40.637" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4953" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-11-13T15:30:04.047" Score="2" ViewCount="466" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have checked several different sites giving different configurations for the slicer. Let's say that the average extruder temperature is 230°C. I know that the complexity of the object matters a lot for the printing quality. What I am concerning is the deposition rate (mm/min), and, the infill type (e.g. honeycomb, rectangular). Which impact the inner infill has in the printing quality? Due to time reasons maximal allowed infill is 50%.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a Geetech Prusa REpRap I3.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for you help guys!!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9023" LastActivityDate="2018-01-17T09:43:22.090" Title="How to increase the printing quality when using abs (slicer config)?" Tags="|abs|slicing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4955" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4953" CreationDate="2017-11-13T15:58:20.533" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;maybe this will help you out...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Iam using a Ultimaker 2+, &lt;strong&gt;only&lt;/strong&gt; with ABS filament, and the software Cura. Cura is a good software but you cannot edit every option like in other slicers, Iam just using the default ABS profile. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most of the times Iam printing in 0.2mm quality, speed varies, smaller objects get printed slower. My max speed when printing is 40mm/s.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Buildplate heats up to 90°, I tend to increase the heat to 98° - 100°.&#xA;The more I increase that the lesser warping I will get. But Iam using bluetape also, so warping is no big issue anyway.&#xA;The noozle should be heated to 260°, thats the cura default.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On very small or thin parts I activate the fan immediatly, on big parts Iam not using the fan. I also print the small parts really slow.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had no problems regarding the outer-walls and the infill (no cave building or stuff like that), but this is maybe dependent on the outer-wall-thickness. I mostly use a wall-thickness of over 1mm. Iam always using rectangular pattern, and mostly an infill under 30%.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I get good quality prints, and nearly no warping because of the bluetape.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Otherwise I didnt change any options in Cura, the flow rate is default.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sorry for the late edit, here are my default cura settings:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4oqvT.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4oqvT.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Basic Settings&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cBe99.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cBe99.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Advanced Settings&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8916" LastEditorUserId="8916" LastEditDate="2018-01-17T09:43:22.090" LastActivityDate="2018-01-17T09:43:22.090" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4956" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4972" CreationDate="2017-11-13T16:09:55.073" Score="4" ViewCount="198" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to paint my ABS parts. But I foresee a problem that will arise from 0.16mm layer - those layers will be perfectly visible, even with primer. Sanding them wouldn't be a good idea, because walls are just 0.8-1mm thick, and probably acetone bath isn't right thing too. I want to use some sort of cement or paste, and cover parts with it using some paint scraper or knife before painting. Do cements suitable for this task exist? Would they stick to ABS?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9027" LastActivityDate="2017-11-15T01:40:02.047" Title="Cement or another solid pore filler suitable for ABS?" Tags="|abs|post-processing|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4957" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4950" CreationDate="2017-11-13T16:45:12.337" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;How did you measure the bed corners (caliper, ruler, spirit-level)?&#xA;I had a similar problem in my 3d printer (Geetech Prusa REpRap I3) I solved by using an indicator (distance amplifying instrument). what I did was to set-up my heating bed completely, with the glass, screws with spacers, springs.&#xA;I had fix on the z-axis my indicator set to 0, and I started moving the printer with small increments to each corner of the bed, slowing adjusting each corner screw to keep my bed on level. It is a very dull and time consuming process, but, now I have an offset from one corner to the other of just 30 µm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keep in mind that during a normal printing, the heating bed due to thermal expansion may increase the deviation of your calibration step.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have any doubts do not hesitate to ask!&#xA;Cheers &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9023" LastActivityDate="2017-11-13T16:45:12.337" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4958" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4956" CreationDate="2017-11-13T19:16:08.360" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some quick research shows me that ABS can be slightly affected by the composition of polyester resin. Automotive body repair filler, commonly called Bondo (brand name) is mostly polyester resin. I've found in my reading that some consider the &quot;slightly affected&quot; aspect to mean that it adheres well, others believe that the material will weaken and damage the ABS.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could, of course, purchase some body filler and perform tests. It sands well and would certainly remove the layer lines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you determine that such material is not a good solution or would rather not take the gamble or perform the tests, you have an option with another product called &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B0015H1FDI&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;microballoons or microspheres&lt;/a&gt;. It is a product that has an accurate description. The material is hollow spheres of glass of such tiny dimensions that they will blow away if you breathe on them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The primary purpose of this product is to fill gaps, create fillets and similar structures without adding appreciable weight. One would use them with thin epoxy resin and mix to desired consistency. Some descriptions include &quot;mayonnaise or peanut butter&quot; depending on the application.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With both of these products, easily sanded is also in the description, although your choice of epoxy will also contribute to that aspect. Because the microballoons are mostly air, they do sand quite cleanly when mixed to heavy or thick consistency.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0dpnS.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0dpnS.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;microballoons&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastActivityDate="2017-11-13T19:16:08.360" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4959" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-11-14T00:43:34.717" Score="8" ViewCount="2868" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to print a large piece with polycarbonate but it keeps warping, I'm using a Taz 5 printer and setting 290 C in the extruder and 145 C in the heating bed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other setting I have are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;printing speed: 20 mm/s&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;layer height: 2.5mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;infil: 20%&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;brim: 15mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can anyone tell me any tips or suggestions to avoid warping?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9033" LastEditorUserId="9033" LastEditDate="2017-11-14T20:49:59.857" LastActivityDate="2018-01-17T19:25:23.487" Title="Printing with Polycarbonate keeps warping" Tags="|print-material|warping|support-material|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4960" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-11-14T05:16:41.043" Score="8" ViewCount="277" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the image, &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fcPgL.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fcPgL.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;there is an object circled in blue on the anet a8 printer that I need to buy a replacement of, however, I can not find it online, please help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9035" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2019-12-08T11:40:15.883" LastActivityDate="2020-06-09T10:34:24.697" Title="What is this called and where can I buy a replacement?" Tags="|prusa-i3|extruder|anet-a8|repair|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4961" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4919" CreationDate="2017-11-14T05:50:00.737" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am not an expert but I think you will find that because 3D printers use a layer by layer construction method, and the boundary between the layers creates grooves along the surface or leaves a rough texture on the surface. That the textured surface left by 3D printer construction would trap microbes and make 3D printed objects not suitable for medical applications where you need the product to be sterile. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It might be possible to treat the printed object or post process it. By vapor smoothing or painting/coating, but I doing think this would work for flexible materials. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are considering 3D printing because of the ability to customize the design, then I would suggest considering combining 3D printing with molding or casting. You could then use a cheap 3D printer to create the mold and use a flexible resin to create the object you want. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have heard of SLA 3D printing being used to create molds for casting fake teeth. There 3D printing is used to create a custom shape and the print is used to make a mold and the final product is cast using the mold to get the quality and finish needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And I have head of FDM printing being used in used in remote areas to print clamps for umbilical cords. But I believe this was because not no other option was available.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1476" LastActivityDate="2017-11-14T05:50:00.737" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4962" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4960" CreationDate="2017-11-14T05:55:06.820" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is part of &lt;a href=&quot;http://3dprinting-blog.com/tag/3d-printer-upgrade/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;filament drive&lt;/a&gt;. Anets do not sell it separately, only as a part of extruder assembly, but other manufacturers may make incompatible parts: of different size (not fitting into bracket), filament channel position, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8847" LastActivityDate="2017-11-14T05:55:06.820" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4963" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4960" CreationDate="2017-11-14T07:45:48.567" Score="-3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Like @ZuOverture said the name of this component is the filament drive. Most of the manufactures sell the whole extrusion device already assembled, to avoid mismatches between the components of the extrusion device. If your device is somehow damaged, and without possibilities to be used in the printer the easiest solution would be to buy a new extrusion device. If financially is unfeasible for you, you may have the option to generate the 3D model of this piece and share the file to someone who could print this component for you. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9023" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-06-09T10:34:24.697" LastActivityDate="2020-06-09T10:34:24.697" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4964" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4960" CreationDate="2017-11-14T08:15:24.320" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is the throat block for direct drive extrusion, Anet8 is a cheap clone of Prusa printers, so it's easy to find parts for Anet printers. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is one extruder kit that may help your needs, &lt;a href=&quot;https://es.aliexpress.com/store/product/1Set-3D-Printer-makerbot-MK8-Extruder-Aluminum-extrusion-Frame-Block-DIY-Kit-for-Reprap-i3/1962255_32715673423.html?spm=a219c.search0104.3.269.W5yIqd&amp;amp;ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_2_10152_10065_10151_10344_10068_10345_10342_10343_10173_10340_10341_10541_10562_10084_10083_10307_10060_10155_5680016_10154_10056_10055_10539_10537_10312_10059_10313_10314_10534_10533_100031_10103_10073_10102_10557_10142_10107,searchweb201603_25,ppcSwitch_5&amp;amp;btsid=79693e48-00b7-4029-908d-314b37935569&amp;amp;algo_expid=64c2aa2b-e9de-4722-8ecb-0ba5542f5a86-34&amp;amp;algo_pvid=64c2aa2b-e9de-4722-8ecb-0ba5542f5a86&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;1 Unidades Impresora 3D makerbot MK8 Extrusora De extrusión de Aluminio Bloque de DIY Kit para Reprap i3&lt;/a&gt;. This is a link for Aliexpress - of course there are other dealers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4454" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2017-11-21T15:16:28.180" LastActivityDate="2017-11-21T15:16:28.180" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4965" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4966" CreationDate="2017-11-14T10:25:01.993" Score="6" ViewCount="7166" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Prusa i3 printer with mk8 extruder. I am using PETG with (200-240/75-85) degrees recommended temp on it's box. but when I do printing i hear some knocking sound that means there is a problem in extrusion. last time I did increase my temp up to 270 degrees!! maybe this sound solved! but it damaged my extruder's screw's inner Teflon and I forced to change it! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now I have a new nozzle and extruder's screw, but again I can hear this sound during the printing! I thought maybe it's because of very close distance between the nozzle and the bed, but when I increase the distance, the filament starts to warping!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My nozzle is new and it can't be for clogging. so I decreased the print speed from it's default 60mm(in Cura software) to 50, but didn't solve this sound. Also when I use pronterface and do extrusion manually, it works nice with 200 degrees! but I can hear the sound in 190 degrees. But when I do printing I hear the sound even in 200 degrees! Is this mean I must increase the temperature for printing? how much?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By knocking sound I mean the sound you can hear when you have a clogged nozzle and the extruder's stepper motor can't push the filament into it and rotates with knocking sound!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9013" LastEditorUserId="3953" LastEditDate="2017-11-15T07:46:53.170" LastActivityDate="2017-11-15T07:46:53.170" Title="What is the meaning of extruder's knocking sound?" Tags="|diy-3d-printer|print-material|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4966" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4965" CreationDate="2017-11-14T10:39:20.847" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The extruder motor may be skipping steps because of insufficient current. Typically, the stepper driver will have a small potentiometer that lets you increase or decrease the current. Increasing the current will give the motor more torque/force, but also cause it (and the driver) to heat up more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastActivityDate="2017-11-14T10:39:20.847" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4967" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4900" CreationDate="2017-11-14T11:41:52.560" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to all the information:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;No reassignment of the extruder in the Gcode&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You can extrude if you push the filament by hand&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Extruder motor works when switched to Z driver&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Z Motor works&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I come to the conclusion that some of your electronics or the motor have fried.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What have fried? I tried to make a step by step check:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Switch drivers between E and Z, but plug the motors as usual:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) Does the extruder extrude?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes: Your driver has fried&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) Were you able to move the Z motor?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No: Motherboard And driver has fried&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3) Plug in the E motor on the Z driver, can you make the E motor turn?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes: Motherboard fried&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No: Motor fried&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;HTH and keep us updated if it worked or not!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8328" LastActivityDate="2017-11-14T11:41:52.560" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4968" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4965" CreationDate="2017-11-14T11:43:33.407" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds like your filament is not hot enough to be extruded, which will cause the stepper motor to 'skip' (and produce a knocking or clicking sound). 200°C sounds rather low for PETG, and I do not get good extrusion below 215°C. I normally print at 225°C, with the first layer at 235°C. I also print slower than I do for PLA -- 40mm/s and 30mm/s for the first layer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that thermistors can be inaccurate, and may report temperatures several degrees lower or higher than are actually being achieved.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3953" LastEditorUserId="3953" LastEditDate="2017-11-14T12:02:37.293" LastActivityDate="2017-11-14T12:02:37.293" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4970" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-11-14T16:16:49.117" Score="6" ViewCount="504" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to get a pretty accurate method to do finite element analysis (FEA) on my 3d designs considering the infill. I use &lt;em&gt;Autodesk Inventor&lt;/em&gt; to design parts but the FEA can only be applied to a solid body (100% infill). Does anyone know software that can convert a 3d design to another but considering the infill so I can use FEA more accurately?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9033" LastEditorUserId="9134" LastEditDate="2018-01-14T14:54:24.410" LastActivityDate="2018-05-05T16:34:56.777" Title="FEA in 3d printed solids" Tags="|cad|infill|analysis|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4972" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4956" CreationDate="2017-11-14T17:01:03.097" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Consider these moments:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You can sand primer coating. Every layer adds about 0.1-0.2mm, and somewhat levels the surface by itself because surface tension forces primer to fill cavities more. Primers can be sanded after thorough drying and are guaranteed to stick to plastic if applicable for that sort of plastic. Though, with transparent primers it's hard to tell whether your surface is smooth even after sanding.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Acetone vapor won't bend thin walls if applied shortly, but will make surface sticky. If you apply powder coats (say, cement) right after acetone vapor treatment, then it will create really good base for paint, primer, or basically any coating, because the powder will be embedded into surface. Clear ABS surface is quite tricky to paint, but if you contaminate it a bit, you might end up with better results.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8847" LastEditorUserId="8847" LastEditDate="2017-11-15T01:40:02.047" LastActivityDate="2017-11-15T01:40:02.047" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4973" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4994" CreationDate="2017-11-14T18:28:58.097" Score="0" ViewCount="1609" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here is a video about 30MB, that shows my printer and it's sound during printing: &lt;a href=&quot;https://drive.google.com/file/d/1wj5_Uwv4X8SoLaouxBi1FHFi4x4Uoegd/view?usp=drivesdk&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://drive.google.com/file/d/1wj5_Uwv4X8SoLaouxBi1FHFi4x4Uoegd/view?usp=drivesdk&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I guess the reason of this sound is the bed. Because I couldn't level my bed with screws and upper=left and bottom-right corners of the bed were about 1.5mm lower than the opposite sides. So I added two nuts behind the springs of these two sides! I don't know really if it could help but know I can print almost good.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xZhIz.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xZhIz.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So i think the knocking sound is because of these nuts and my bed carriage is not 100% flat(although it seems flat by eyes). Or maybe my rods aren't parallel(although they seems parallel by simple ruler measurement).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By the way, I like to know does anyone experimented same problem? or can guess the real problem or suggest a way to solve it? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And IMPORTANT question: May this problem break my heated-bed? Or causes new problems in future?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9013" LastActivityDate="2017-11-18T00:20:05.970" Title="Knocking/Clicking sound when Y-Carriage passas trough the middle of rods" Tags="|diy-3d-printer|print-material|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4974" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4978" CreationDate="2017-11-14T18:49:29.200" Score="5" ViewCount="2589" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is this a leveling problem? or it's because the bed temperature isn't equal in everywhere? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it's because of leveling, it means the distance between nozzle and bed in this not-sticked corners are lot and should be decrease? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: material is ABS, and it's recommended temp is 190-230/80-100. But I use Cura high quality ABS default settings with 225/80. (But I had this problem with PLA with 190/60 degrees too)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8jJkv.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8jJkv.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Pc30D.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Pc30D.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8sh5T.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8sh5T.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iqWOP.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iqWOP.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT2: I have a cooling fan for my Arduino/ramps board. But there was a wire between it's blades and it didn't work. today I saw it and tried to fix but it's plastic duct broke. So I tried to put it by hand as how it's air can cool both the Electronics boars and the bed(you can see my fan in one of the pics in left side). And I got a nice printing results for the same part printing:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GlRIV.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GlRIV.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/X5ImW.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/X5ImW.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bNbJF.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bNbJF.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the cooling fan for printing part is very important to stick print to bed and I will print a duct for extra fan very soon!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9013" LastEditorUserId="9013" LastEditDate="2017-11-15T21:00:32.790" LastActivityDate="2017-11-15T21:00:32.790" Title="Why some corners aren't sticked well?" Tags="|heated-bed|nozzle|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4975" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4976" CreationDate="2017-11-14T19:34:29.083" Score="4" ViewCount="512" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm printing a cylindrical piece but at any moment it breaks down. I tried it two times, both have break down in different place. I'm using a 1.75&amp;nbsp;mm PLA filament in my Anet A8. I'm using Cura 2.6.2 to export to a &lt;code&gt;.gcode&lt;/code&gt; file.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the original model: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mglT8.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Original model&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mglT8.png&quot; alt=&quot;Original model&quot; title=&quot;Original model&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And this is the result:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mtYyb.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Printed result&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mtYyb.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Printed result&quot; title=&quot;Printed result&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is the &lt;a href=&quot;https://mega.nz/#!1hkyhLBA!xmt7s38vrb7fEh9SkiSYWfgwLxg4WaYED1h6vzUpghg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;G-code file&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9043" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-07-08T11:31:18.823" LastActivityDate="2018-08-04T17:02:08.303" Title="Printing starts well but then it breaks down, Anet A8" Tags="|pla|print-quality|ultimaker-cura|anet-a8|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4976" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4975" CreationDate="2017-11-14T19:57:07.387" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The first thought that pops into my mind is insufficient cooling. Consider to either slow down the nozzle speed or to construct a toss-away model nearby. I prefer the toss-away or duplicate model method. It allows the material printed on the first column to cool more effectively while the material on the second column is being deposited. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the problem persists, add a third column or slow the print speed about 10 mm / second&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastActivityDate="2017-11-14T19:57:07.387" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4977" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4974" CreationDate="2017-11-14T21:27:27.577" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;For ABS, I use kapton tape, 90 degrees for the bed. You can also try acetone/ABS mixture (can be very thin). If you haven't got acetone, clean or new tape so there is no grease on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also try a higher nozzle temp for the first layer, sometimes that helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also try lowerimg the nozzle slightly, but it doesn't look bad. Increase flow rate to 110% probably wont do any harm - basically focus on the details before trying to print complicated parts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4927" LastActivityDate="2017-11-14T21:27:27.577" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4978" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4974" CreationDate="2017-11-14T22:11:49.890" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can clearly print but there are also some problems it seems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To see if you're about okay when it comes to leveling, I recommend to activate the 'skirt' in your slicer soft. Slic3r has it and I think most others too, it just makes the printer do a big one-layer all-around 'perimeter' around what is going to be printed before starting. You'll see quickly if there is not enough or too much space between the bed and the nozzle. You might catch other problems too (I love it because when the hotend drips a bit when leveling it get's smeared out far away from where the print is going to happen). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your print looks like it is not optimal (overextrusion? no print-cooling? ...) so start with slowing down, first layer 20-25mm/s (Look at it when it's printed, it's very telling!). Then for the following ones, don't go over 40-50mm/s for starters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Last but not least, you are printing ABS (but you said you had the problem with PLA too, hence my post), I have never printed ABS but for what I have read, you'll need a heatbed and a heated chamber(enclosed printer) to not have this kind of problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But for PLA especially; If you have a heat bed, don't put on too much heat when printing, I went from 60°C to 50°C, first layer, 30° then, and my prints now stick like they are melded onto my plate instead of skidding around.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8328" LastActivityDate="2017-11-14T22:11:49.890" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4979" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="709" CreationDate="2017-11-15T02:34:43.623" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;My advice is to use a micrometer (i.e., sliding dial caliper) accurate to within .001&quot; and measure the printed object.  If it is 1 7/8&quot; for example, you would open the STL file in Makerbot software and use their scaling tool to scale the object to 1.0666666...., which is what you get when you divide the desired size (2&quot;) by the actual printed size (1.875&quot;).&#xA;I have found that it is much simpler to do that than to reinvent the wheel and try to figure out what each software engineer was thinking on each program and each conversion process and try to make it work right every time.  Chances are that the same conversion factor might work right for any file originating from the same source and going through the same conversion software package.  Also, &#xA;3D printers in general don't like edges that aren't completely &quot;welded&quot;, or continuous seams.  With Sketchup if you keep zooming in on an edge you almost always get seams that are stitched at intervals determined by Sketchup algorithms.  They are &quot;unwelded&quot; seams.  Some 3D printers can handle them.  Many don't.  I have used various 3D software packages, including Sketchup, and the best one so far has been Rhinoceros 3D.  It handles multiple complex curvaceous planes and can radius adjoining curved edges and can &quot;weld&quot; them.  Aeronautical and boat building companies use it for CAD/CAM applications.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;...&#xA;The STL file converter you mentioned is probably taking the Sketchup file and &quot;cleaning it up&quot; so Makerbot likes it.  You would almost have to know exactly what algorithms each developer uses. to try and 'fix' it mathematically&#xA;Like I said, do your own measuring and scale accordingly.&#xA;BTW, it's better in my opinion to let Makerbot do the rafts and supports.  Their engineers typically do a pretty good job.  Where I have had issues is on things with a shallow angle (almost horizontal) hanging out into empty space.  If you can re-orient the object in the makerbot software so those types of angles are minimized, the print is alot cleaner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9046" LastActivityDate="2017-11-15T02:34:43.623" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4980" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4989" CreationDate="2017-11-15T11:26:41.307" Score="7" ViewCount="30545" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm fairly new to 3D printing but I'm getting the steam up and I chug out pieces without much hassle. One thing though is that I have the impression that sometimes, parts are easily broken, and I suspect bad adhesion between layers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm printing eSun PLA at 208&amp;nbsp;°C (212&amp;nbsp;°C first layer), bed at 50&amp;nbsp;°C first layer then 30&amp;nbsp;°C.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I print the Benchy boat, it feels extremely sturdy (even the small chimney is unbreakable by hand), but if I make, say, a 50&amp;nbsp;mm diameter cylinder with 4&amp;nbsp;mm wall thickness, It breaks fairly easy along some layer. I don't see any specific error, it &quot;looks&quot; okay.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So my question is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do you assure that you print layers that bond enough?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[Edit] I already know that might actually cause bad bonding (low heat, underextrusion, ...) but I'm looking for a way to see when it happens.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is an image from when I stopped mid print (you can see the little ooze string just at the start at the crack) for checking dimensions. The next layer didn't bond well because, I guess, the already printed part had cooled down when I un-paused the print (say 1 minute later) or maybe the z-axis went off a bit when I touched the build plate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/v9shu.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/v9shu.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Sorry for the bad quality, I forced a screwdriver in the crack for visibility&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is the only way of knowing layers bonded correctly, to try to break the part apart?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8328" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-05-26T21:38:15.797" LastActivityDate="2019-05-26T21:38:15.797" Title="How do you assure that you print layers that bond correctly?" Tags="|pla|print-strength|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4981" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="59" CreationDate="2017-11-15T12:04:15.970" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're more interested in the recycling and reuse aspect than the re-print aspect, you could melt all the scrap filament onto a cookie sheet or into a bar (like in a bread ban).  You could then manually work the material, or use a CNC machine to carve out your next thing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kUR6_bQLU-E&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Youtube video&lt;/a&gt; refers to HDPE, but the same concept will apply to other thermoplastics:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/kUR6_bQLU-E?start=0&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G-HWrDMr0ks&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Youtube video&lt;/a&gt; uses a cookie sheet and failed prints:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/G-HWrDMr0ks?start=0&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5576" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2021-12-02T12:13:18.933" LastActivityDate="2021-12-02T12:13:18.933" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4982" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9950" CreationDate="2017-11-15T12:06:11.210" Score="30" ViewCount="67686" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Question&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is PLA+? How is it different than PLA?  I'm looking for science, composition, formula, safety concerns (or lack thereof), etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Background&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I picked up a roll of PLA+ at Microcenter (their in-house Inland brand) because it was on clearance.  I didn't even notice the &quot;+&quot; until I decided to try that color, and then I noticed it on the sticker.  It prints well, feels like ABS, smells like PLA when printing, and I can use PLA temps on my printer.  It sands better than PLA, and if I I hadn't noticed the PLA+ sticker, and the smell, &lt;strong&gt;I would think it was ABS&lt;/strong&gt;.  It will break its line into my printer like PLA does; ABS doesn't break if left alone.  However, PLA+ lasts longer than regular PLA before breaking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Getting info from the Internet&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Aside from a few discussions on reddit (&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/comments/4iqzop/pla_vs_pla_short_review/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;review&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/comments/4huvoj/introducing_esun_pla_pro_pla/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;commercial introduction&lt;/a&gt;), I can't find anything about it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Getting info from the Manufacturer&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I went back to Microcenter and the guy that was there working the 3d printing section did not know what I was talking about.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I went to Microcenter another time and the guy in the filament area said that all of their PLA filament was now PLA+, and that the + meant it was to be used at a higher temperature.  The boxes are labeled with 205 - 225°C.  It seems that all the inland brand PLA I have is PLA+, save for the first roll I bought.  It does not have any kind of temperature markings on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Flash forward 1.5+ years from the original question&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This question got some recent attention, so I looked to find the answer again.  I found &lt;a href=&quot;https://all3dp.com/2/pla-vs-pla-3d-printer-filament-compared/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;this article&lt;/a&gt;, which is a hot pile of !usefulness, giving no data, lots of opinion, and probably some direct insights from someone's marketing department.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://forum.makergear.com/viewtopic.php?t=3345&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;These guys&lt;/a&gt; say it's good stuff, but nothing about the chemical or compositional difference between the two.  When I find people talking about the difference (like on reddit), those are the details usually mentioned, which are vague, anecdotal, and opinionated, and could be clever marketing (could be, not guaranteed to be).  One man's shiny is another man's matte for example.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://monopricesupport.kayako.com/article/3-what-is-the-difference-between-the-filaments-offered&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Monoprice confirmed&lt;/a&gt; what I already did by reading the label and printing with it, but does mention TPU, which might be &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thermoplastic_polyurethane&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Thermoplastic polyurethane&lt;/a&gt;.  No quantity or proportion or anything, and since they're the only manufacturer/reseller to officially say this, I consider it unconfirmed. One of the answers below says that PLA+ probably includes TPU or something like it, but that's conjecture or opinion by their own admission. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;PLA+ is a variation of PLA that has added material in order to make&#xA;  the filament less brittle, have a smoother surface finish, and less&#xA;  likely to absorb moisture. Typically, TPU is added into the filament&#xA;  in order to achieve this property. PLA+ will have the feel and&#xA;  functionality of ABS without the smell. If you didn’t know better, you&#xA;  would think it was ABS. We suggest printing with PLA+ at 205 to 210&#xA;  degrees Celsius and with a bed temperature of 45 degrees Celsius. PLA+&#xA;  responds very well to blue painter’s tape and a glue stick to hold&#xA;  properly and not peel up when printing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://forum.makergear.com/viewtopic.php?t=1552&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;These people&lt;/a&gt; also ask what it is, but they're doing science about it circa 2014 to try to figure it out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure what to think of &lt;a href=&quot;https://duchofilla.com/product-category/filament/pla-plus/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;this manufacturer/seller's description&lt;/a&gt;.  It sounds like they are implying that PLA has a branding problem, so they added a plus to it for a new formula to fix their branding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;PLA Plus is an enhanced version of our PLA that's less brittle and&#xA;  more durable. ‘Enhanced’ PLAs have a bad reputation, some are no&#xA;  better than PLA, some perform worse in some conditions. We’ve taken a&#xA;  different approach: our ‘regular’ PLA is regarded as the strongest&#xA;  pure PLA in the industry, it’s hard to improve on the best. But&#xA;  sometimes you need something a little more durable. Enter our&#xA;  specially formulated PLA Plus. Prints like PLA, but with better&#xA;  durability. Its available with their brighter color options!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Final thoughts&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I find a lot of articles/posts talking about &quot;eSun PLA+&quot; specifically.  I'm starting to think that this might be the OEM and that other companies are selling it with their own branding, but that all PLA+ comes from the same place.  I found their &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.esun3d.net/products/142.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;product page&lt;/a&gt;, and it says this, which mentions nothing about the formula:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Characteristics：&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;extracted and purified from corn grain;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;high rigidity, good glossiness and transparency;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;suitable for printing larger models;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;toughness is 2 times more than the PLA on the market;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;no wiredrawing problems, the surface of the printouts will be smoother and more delicate;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;no cracking problem.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5576" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2019-05-17T09:21:20.603" LastActivityDate="2022-12-29T18:36:17.407" Title="What is PLA+? How is it different from PLA?" Tags="|filament|pla|filament-choice|pla+|" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4983" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4980" CreationDate="2017-11-15T13:22:02.473" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;No matter what you do, the adhesion between layers will never be as strong as the adhesion in the direction of layer application.  It's analogous to a wooden baseball bat (for those old enough to remember them :-) ).  If you apply force perpendicular to the &quot;grain,&quot; i.e. growth layers, it's strong.  If you apply force along the grain, it'll snap pretty easily.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Now, if you print a cylinder vertically, it snaps between layers.  If you print it horizontally, the layers run along the cylinder axis and it won't break. That's of course a much more difficult print with extrusion systems, and cosmetically less desirable as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2191" LastActivityDate="2017-11-15T13:22:02.473" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4984" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4950" CreationDate="2017-11-15T21:06:19.343" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I could solve my problem by this strange system for both opposite sides but I couldn't find the really reson of this problem!:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XD2W8.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XD2W8.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9013" LastActivityDate="2017-11-15T21:06:19.343" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4985" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4986" CreationDate="2017-11-16T01:48:51.287" Score="4" ViewCount="3335" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm relatively new to Cura, having just installed it a few weeks ago.  I have 3.0.3 and I'm running on Windows 7 64 bit.  I noticed the auto slicing setting while poking around the settings.  Auto slice almost always works.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A couple times now, Cura won't auto slice. I can't seem to find the slice button.  How do I manually slice?  I found &lt;a href=&quot;https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/21345-cura-auto-slicing&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;an article&lt;/a&gt; on how to disable auto slicing, but it doesn't show how to manually slice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Where the button &quot;save to file&quot; is is greyed out and just says &quot;Print with Octoprint&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Closing Cura and re-opening it will fix the issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5576" LastActivityDate="2017-11-16T02:32:19.273" Title="Where is the &quot;slice&quot; button in Cura?" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4986" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4985" CreationDate="2017-11-16T02:13:49.463" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If auto-slicing is disabled, the button in the bottom-right corner of the window toggles between &quot;Prepare&quot; and &quot;Save to File&quot; depending on whether the model needs to be re-sliced or not. While slicing is in progress, it changes to &quot;Cancel&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If auto-slicing is enabled, the button always reads &quot;Save to File&quot;, and is greyed-out when slicing is being performed (it does not change to &quot;Cancel&quot;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3953" LastEditorUserId="3953" LastEditDate="2017-11-16T02:32:19.273" LastActivityDate="2017-11-16T02:32:19.273" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4987" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-11-16T11:32:10.390" Score="-2" ViewCount="390" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is my 3D-printer, and I am looking for it's &lt;code&gt;.stl&lt;/code&gt; parts to print. Also I don't know which kind of Prusa is it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xg6ur.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xg6ur.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bBf4Z.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bBf4Z.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9013" LastEditorUserId="9013" LastEditDate="2017-11-17T20:37:58.967" LastActivityDate="2017-11-17T20:37:58.967" Title="I am looking for STL files of my Prusa i3 printer?" Tags="|prusa-i3|axis|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ClosedDate="2017-11-17T16:15:27.490" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4988" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4987" CreationDate="2017-11-16T20:43:49.157" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would try Googling your specific make of the i3. For example if you have a Geeetech Prusa i3. I would type in Google &quot;Geeetech prusa i3 stl parts&quot; and I'm sure you should fine plenty of things.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If that is unsuccessfull. I guess try this one. It looks similar but it lacks that hole on the bottom middle to the right of the motor holes. So if its not important, I would look at this. &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1103976&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1103976&lt;/a&gt;. Might be a good idea to replace the entire X axis system with a new printed one to make sure it all fits and works.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;@Tom van der Zanden is correct that without your specific version it is impossible to find the same part since small variations such as the distance between the two X axis smooth rods may differ between parts. While it is almost standard for the i3 design, you will find minor changes between variations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would also try scrolling through here. &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/groups/prusa-i3/things&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.thingiverse.com/groups/prusa-i3/things&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8725" LastActivityDate="2017-11-16T20:43:49.157" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4989" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4980" CreationDate="2017-11-16T23:05:15.753" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think the reason why the large cylinder is breaking much easier than the smokestack would is because of leverage. If you print the same cylinder at a much smaller scale it might be more difficult to break it. Think of taking a wooden stick, if you try to snap it by holding both hands near the center, it would be difficult but if you push on the very ends, the leverage will make it easier to snap. I have the tug boat on my desk right now and I was unable to snap it, instead I broke the cabin section just right above the steering wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now to answer your question. One of the faults in larger prints having weak layer adhesion could be a number of things. I think a common fault is under extrusion. If the nozzle has a high enough gap from the previous layer and it extrudes just enough filament to touch the layer but not necessarily push it snug, it could be a weak bond. This is like tape, usually when you want to make sure it will stay stuck, you press hard and rub it in. So I imagine filament shouldn't loosely flow onto layers but instead be pressed hard against the previous layers. Visually this is hard to judge but I noticed getting my first layer very close to the print bed makes every other layer stick very stronger on the previous one. You get a small skirt on the first layer but it does tend to give me a stronger bond between layers. You can easily slice off the skirt with a blade. Increasing the extrusion multiplier could give the same affect without needing to adjust bed height/leveling, but this can end up giving you some nasty walls. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another thing I recommend is to check your Z-axis. This is difficult to measure and best to find out by print quality on tall structures. On my first printer I had the issue where my threaded Z-rods would bind and cause one of the two rods to get a slight bit ahead. This caused a layer split focused on the side opposite of the faulty rod. This made many prints very prone to breaking at that point. I had to rebuild my Z-axis assembly to correct this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Print temperature can help, try raising it up by 5 to see if this improves the bonding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lastly, try another filament. Filament tends to go bad due to moisture exposure, that is why usually you receive it airtight with a small bag of silica to absorb moisture. If I use filament which has been sitting out for months, just squeezing my part separates the layers in almost a slinky kind of way. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8725" LastActivityDate="2017-11-16T23:05:15.753" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4993" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4982" CreationDate="2017-11-17T22:39:08.863" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;There’s no huge difference between both. The printing settings like temperature and printing speed are practically the same. But the PLA+ have a much better surface quality and it’s slightly more bright than normal PLA. Another difference is that the PLA+ it's more effective in bridges than PLA. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to the comparison between PLA and PLA+ go right here, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/comments/4iqzop/pla_vs_pla_short_review/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;PLA vs PLA+ (short review)&lt;/a&gt;. This post is an awesome experiment with both materials.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9033" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-06-23T13:45:54.543" LastActivityDate="2018-06-23T13:45:54.543" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4994" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4973" CreationDate="2017-11-18T00:20:05.970" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't think the sound is coming from nuts and springs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can think of 3 possible sources.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Y axis rod bearings&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Those four bearings that are mounted onto your bed frame may be binding through rough spots on the smooth rods. Usually printer kits don't give you the best quality stuff and those rods may not be perfectly the same diameter throughout its length or may be bent so slightly. Your best bet to test if this is the problem is to remove the belt from your bed and slide the bed back and forth and see if you can recreate the sound trying different speeds and pressure while doing so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Y axis pulley/idler&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think it's probably this because I have heard a similar noise and this part has failed on me. Usually these are either a plastic pulley, two bearings, two bearings inserted into a plastic pulley, or one larger bearing inserted into a plastic pulley. If your printer uses a bearing here, I recommend taking that part off and inspecting that bearing. I've had mine destroyed and the little balls went everywhere. You can test this by just trying to hear for it. Turn off the printer motors and move the bed manually, see if it sounds like it is coming from the idler.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Nozzle hitting print&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I doubt this but sometimes when prints are over extruded or curl up, the nozzle hits the print as it passes over so maybe your hearing individual collisions clicking. Again I really doubt this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will this break your heated bed? Probably not. Will it cause problems in the future? If it is a fault with the bearings, most likely they will fail eventually but nothing else should get damaged in the process. But no worries, parts are cheap and readily available online or even at some hardware stores.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Note&lt;/strong&gt; : My mechanic taught me this when trying to figure out which bearing was making noise in a car. Take a long screw driver, preferably with a wooden handle, and place the tip on the part you think is making noise and place the handle to your ear. Usually this amplifies the noise when your making contact with the faulty part. Using this I was able to figure out which bearing was squeaking among the half dozen points where the belt would spin. Not sure how well this works for a printer and be careful not to have the mechanical moving parts(such as your printer bed) hit the screwdriver into your face.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8725" LastActivityDate="2017-11-18T00:20:05.970" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4995" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4959" CreationDate="2017-11-18T00:32:52.437" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would take a look &lt;a href=&quot;http://reprap.org/wiki/Polycarbonate&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.matterhackers.com/articles/how-to-succeed-when-printing-with-polycarbonate-filament&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&#xA;Literally the first two results of Google.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To summarize what they say,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You need good bed adhesion to keep the first layer from warping near the edges like you will get normally with ABS or PC(Polycarbonate). Some use hairspray or gluestick. I manage myself with buildtak surface. I would stay away from blue painters tape. Your looking for something very sticky. This of course makes it a nightmare to get the part off the bed but well worth the trouble if it keeps your print on the bed and flat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Make sure the part receives adequate heat. Like someone wrote in the comments, a enclosure works best to keep the temperature of the entire print warm instead of just the few layers closest to the bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More perimeter layers works very well by providing more structural strength to try and combat the warping. I've stumbled upon this solution when I had trouble with ABS.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lastly, first layer is always the most important part of any print. You want to make sure it is as level as possible and a good tip is to raise your bed just so slightly than usual so the first layer is jammed hard against the bed. This provides better surface area. Just be careful not to clog your printhead cause if you constrict the flow out of the nozzle too much, you'll might end up with plastic trying to flow upwards or maybe grind the filament with the extruder gear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8725" LastActivityDate="2017-11-18T00:32:52.437" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4996" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4916" CreationDate="2017-11-18T06:17:32.033" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could mount your google drive using gdrivefs on your pi following this tutorial: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.raspberrypi.org/forums/viewtopic.php?t=109587&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.raspberrypi.org/forums/viewtopic.php?t=109587&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;However, I have to ask: why send the file to the internet? Is your printer/pi on a separate network than your desktop where you are slicing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If they're on the same network, you'd be better off setting up a samba share on your raspberry pi (&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.raspberrypi.org/magpi/samba-file-server/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.raspberrypi.org/magpi/samba-file-server/&lt;/a&gt;) and then mounting that directory from your desktop (&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.techrepublic.com/article/how-to-connect-to-linux-samba-shares-from-windows-10/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.techrepublic.com/article/how-to-connect-to-linux-samba-shares-from-windows-10/&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In either case, you could set the directory (the gdrive directory or the samba share) as the watched folder in octoprint's config.yaml (&lt;a href=&quot;http://docs.octoprint.org/en/master/configuration/config_yaml.html#folder&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://docs.octoprint.org/en/master/configuration/config_yaml.html#folder&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9077" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-11-06T22:08:22.000" LastActivityDate="2018-11-06T22:08:22.000" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4997" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4646" CreationDate="2017-11-18T20:31:49.053" Score="-3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think you don't have to use the Arduino. There´s an option in NanoDLP to control the z-axis through the Raspberry GPIO.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9082" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2017-11-21T15:11:46.503" LastActivityDate="2017-11-21T15:11:46.503" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4998" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4982" CreationDate="2017-11-18T22:07:45.703" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;PLA+, depending on the brand, is probably a mixture of other plastics (things like TPU&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;) to help improve upon the weaknesses of regular PLA like brittleness and moisture absorbing. Or they simply used a higher quality PLA blend to create the filament.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do not have a specific source except from collaborating with different materials experts such as &lt;a href=&quot;http://essentiummaterials.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Essentium Materials&lt;/a&gt;. TPU is a flexible plastic that can have different &quot;hardness&quot; levels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; Thermoplastic Polyurethane. It's a flexible thermoplastic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4518" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2019-05-14T19:44:36.743" LastActivityDate="2019-05-14T19:44:36.743" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4999" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5000" CreationDate="2017-11-19T02:07:12.230" Score="4" ViewCount="2096" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just backed a 3d printer on kickstarter, called &quot;Mooz&quot;, and I was wondering about some of the possible applications of it. I realized it would be cool/helpful to be make cookie models, and bake cookies to that shape. The cookies can be baked as low as around 250 °F, &lt;strong&gt;So is there any food-safe and heat resistant filament that can withstand those temperatures?&lt;/strong&gt; (I know many filaments are printed above those temps anyways, but in my case I don't want them to even warp.) Google has failed me on this one, so I hope someone here can answer it for me!&#xA;-Thanks in advance :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;P.S. My 3d printer will have a heated bed, so it can print more types of filaments. The highest bed temp is 100 °C, and the highest hot end temp is 250 °C. I don't really mind using some sealant, but I'd rather not use something toxic like ABS.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;P.P.S I'm a newbie to this stuff, so I apologize in advance if I asked a really stupid question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9084" LastEditorUserId="9084" LastEditDate="2017-11-19T20:54:40.053" LastActivityDate="2017-11-19T20:54:40.053" Title="Oven/Food safe Filament?" Tags="|filament|food|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5000" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4999" CreationDate="2017-11-19T06:28:09.477" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Don't try to bake cookies inside a plastic mold; the plastic will smoke even if not melt. If you need to bake cookies use a cookie cutter made of plastic (your own design or copy) obviously printed on your new printer then bake normally. here is a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/search/page:1?q=cookie&amp;amp;sa=&amp;amp;dwh=525a11237f7ad40&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;link from thingeverse&lt;/a&gt; to get a cookie cutter .stl file&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;:) enjoy cutting cookies these holidays&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is &lt;a href=&quot;http://makefastworkshop.com/hacks/?p=20171116&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;another link&lt;/a&gt; from hacks from one person is making the same to show his idea.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4454" LastEditorUserId="4454" LastEditDate="2017-11-19T19:00:30.553" LastActivityDate="2017-11-19T19:00:30.553" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5001" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5003" CreationDate="2017-11-19T09:17:31.420" Score="7" ViewCount="5131" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know you should, like an infant, never leave your printer without surveillance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But sometimes we all do, trusting our double thermistors and heat runaway configurations. But electronics fry and who says there is no danger even after the print job has finished and it's cooling down, still hooked up?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have searched but smoke/fire detectors come in a wide range of varieties: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They can be battery powered or hardwired, they detect different things: carbon monoxide, heat, smoke..., they thus also have different detectors like photoelectric sensors, ionization sensors or both. We also print with different materials...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So what's the best safeguard for my 2 year old (CoreXY ^^)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8328" LastActivityDate="2017-11-22T17:44:44.520" Title="What type of fire alarm/smoke alarm should my printer have?" Tags="|electronics|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5002" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-11-19T12:47:11.750" Score="2" ViewCount="5346" Body="&lt;p&gt;As I said in the title there is some issue with my z axis steppers. They will make a humming sound and vibrate a little but won't actually spin. I'm fairly sure this is an issue with the firmware (but I might be totally wrong) since they turn when the wires are switched with the ones for the Y axis and swapping the driver board for a spare had no impact on them. Any help would be appreciated. I am using RAMPs 1.4 and marlin firmware.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9085" LastActivityDate="2020-03-28T22:38:47.157" Title="Z Steppers just hum, vibrate and don't move at all" Tags="|z-axis|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5003" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5001" CreationDate="2017-11-19T14:27:17.337" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since some prints can take literally days, I would use a combination of techniques if you're worried about a fire.  According to The Internets, firefighters are willing to inspect your stuff to see if they pose fire hazards.  You could ask your local firefighters what they think of your risk with yoru 3D printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Keep your workplace free of dangers&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't keep flammables, explosives, or similar stuff near your printer.  If it does catch fire, these kinds of things will make it worse.  There are plenty of valid 3D printer supplies that fall in this category: alcohol, alcohol pads, acetone, acetone pads, various glues, various cleaners, hairspray, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Periodically inspect the high amperage parts of the system&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Inspect crimps, but splices, solder joints, relays, etc for burn marks, loose connections, or other problems.  Solve the problems before they catch fire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Alarm&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One or more smoke alarms should detect a fire.  However, they may give false positives for ABS, because ABS gives off that burning plastic smell.  I would experiment with the super-cheap ones and one or two more expensive models to see what kinds of false positives you get.  You'll probably want to put at least one of them directly above the printer.  If your printer is enclosed, put a sensor in the enclosed area.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think smoke alarms should be sufficient, but I'm &lt;strong&gt;not an expert (or even hobbyist)&lt;/strong&gt; on fire alarms.  I have not come across any information that states Carbon Monoxide or Radon are a worries with 3D printers.  Area-affect heat sensors may give many false alarms because of how hot printer stuff gets.  However, you could use contact heat sensors for parts that should not get too hot and monitor them with a &lt;a href=&quot;https://learn.adafruit.com/tmp36-temperature-sensor/using-a-temp-sensor&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;microcontroller or Raspberry Pi&lt;/a&gt;.  Reading this &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.propertyevaluation.net/Photoelectric%20vs%20Ionization%20Smoke%20Alarms%20-%20Deadly%20Differences.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;article&lt;/a&gt;, it seems you may want some ionization sensors for the printer, and not photoelectric.  My &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Scientific_Wild-Ass_Guess&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;WAG&lt;/a&gt; (&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.urbandictionary.com/define.php?term=wild%20ass%20guess&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;link&lt;/a&gt;) is that the plastic (or electronics) would smolder long before catching fire, so you want sensors that would detect the smoldering.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Camera&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://octoprint.org/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;OctoPrint&lt;/a&gt;/&lt;a href=&quot;https://octopi.octoprint.org/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;OctoPi&lt;/a&gt; make it easy to use a webcam to monitor your printer.  However, if your printer is on fire and you're remote, it may or may not be able to shut the printer down.  Even if successful, you still have a fire to deal with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Fire extinguisher&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should have a &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Water_Mist#Halons.2C_Halon-replacement_clean_agents_and_carbon_dioxide&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;fire extinguisher&lt;/a&gt; available to someone to put out your printer should it catch fire.  Printers will need at least an extuingsher of Class C rating, and since we're working with plastics, you probably want Class B as well.  Most of the fire extinguishers you can find in consumer stores are going to be ABC rated, and powder based.  The powder will make a mess and wreak havoc on electronics.  CO2 or Halon will not themselves damage the electronics, but are substantially more expensive than their powder based brethren.  For example, I get 5lb Fire Extinguishers for ~$30 at Costco, but an equivalent in CO2 would be several hundred.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Automatic suppression system&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a maker, you could build a reactionary fire suppression system.  I imagine it would be cost prohibitive to hire someone to do it for you.  Basically, you would use the alarms or special sensors to activate one or more fire extinguishers.  You should over-engineer this so that your fire suppression system completely overwhelms any fire that occurs.  According to The Internets, firefighters are willing to inspect your stuff to see if they pose fire hazards.  You could ask your local firefighters what they think of your risk and suppression system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Firefighting Robot&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could build a robot to detect fires about put them out, as sort of an advanced automatic suppression system.  Something like &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/KQANBPpU8X4?t=34&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Tony Stark's robot&lt;/a&gt;, or something emulating what is actually in service (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.navy.mil/submit/display.asp?story_id=85459&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;US Navy&lt;/a&gt; (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cnn.com/2015/02/12/tech/mci-saffir-robot/index.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;CNN&lt;/a&gt;), &lt;a href=&quot;http://theindianweekly.com.au/australias-first-fire-fighting-robot-unveiled/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Australia tracked firefighter&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KYsKB.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KYsKB.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TXOMT.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TXOMT.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5576" LastActivityDate="2017-11-19T14:27:17.337" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5004" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5002" CreationDate="2017-11-20T03:43:13.750" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Try connecting Y-motor to your Z ports. If Y-motor will behave like Z-motors, then there's problem with your Z ports, be it hardware or software. I'm not a RAMPS user, but have heard that there is voltage regulator for every motor port. Sounds like your motors may be underpowered.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8847" LastActivityDate="2017-11-20T03:43:13.750" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5005" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4919" CreationDate="2017-11-20T08:49:53.657" Score="3" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Not in that price range&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;5000 USD might sound much, but it is far outside of the scope of an industrial 3D printer. You ask to print parts that are safe for implantation, so you need a machine that is allowed to produce medical implants. A machine that makes medical products needs to have them certified by the authorities. These demand strict tests on quality control and the materials allowed are specifically listed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Machines that could work with these materials in the quality demanded are expensive. For example I found with a quick search &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprintingindustry.com/news/12-things-we-can-3d-print-in-medicine-right-now-42867/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;a nice article&lt;/a&gt;: there are SLS printed bones out there - yet an industrial (certified) SLS printer costs several times the budget you have at hand. The same article suggested that 3D Bioprinting has had enough advancements recently to produce heart valves, but the product is undergoing medical tests still. So pretty much both of these examples (and most others on that site) are out of bounds for the finances at hand or are not approved for use on humans.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are some medical tool application that can be 3D Printed though: the mentioned umbilical cord clamps or other solid one-way articles like clamps or spreaders could be made safely from medical grade plastics, yet your chosen material and designed parts will need to undergo medical safety testing - and thus from prototyping to allowance to use it you will spend months or years waiting. This makes this over all much more expensive than using standard one-way baloon cuffed endotracheal tubes. These do contain one unprintable part even: the balloon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Non-implant/non-invasive medical aides like the prothetics of &lt;a href=&quot;http://enablingthefuture.org/upper-limb-prosthetics/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;enabling the future&lt;/a&gt; project are one of the safe applications for 3D printing in medicine at the time of this writing, and they are doable inside a 5000 USD budget.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastActivityDate="2017-11-20T08:49:53.657" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5008" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-11-21T00:59:13.647" Score="0" ViewCount="283" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I go to Quick Settings/Pre-heat PLA, the computer dies the LCD screen goes blank the power supply makes weird noises and then about 2 minutes later, the LCD Screen goes back to the Printer Ready Main screen but there is no temperature change. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9096" LastActivityDate="2017-11-21T00:59:13.647" Title="ANet A8 Pre-Heat PLA Issue" Tags="|prusa-i3|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5009" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5025" CreationDate="2017-11-21T11:07:05.870" Score="0" ViewCount="89" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have this prusa i3 printer(I don't know what model is it):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sLKib.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sLKib.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My bed part is broken. And I am looking for the cads to laser cut them! this is my bed pic:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YKRtx.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YKRtx.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9013" LastActivityDate="2017-11-25T06:36:58.137" Title="I am looking for laser cut cads for my prusa i3?" Tags="|prusa-i3|cad|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5011" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5002" CreationDate="2017-11-21T19:23:35.917" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hello it's seems to be the voltage regutaltor on the steppers drivers for the nema motors. Check to adjust the voltage with a multimeter connecting the red pin from the multimeter on the voltage regulator on the driver and the black pin on the GND pin on the ramps 12v connector.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also make sure that you have connected the jumpers to setup the microstep resolution: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Full step,Half step,Quarter step,Eighth step,Sixteenth step&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Best regards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rodrigo&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8999" LastActivityDate="2017-11-21T19:23:35.917" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5013" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5014" CreationDate="2017-11-22T02:13:33.930" Score="6" ViewCount="696" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently backed a 3D printer on Kickstarter, and I would like to 3D print parts for high-temperature applications. So I have two questions; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;What's the highest temperature polycarbonate can be safely heated to without warping or releasing toxins?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If there's a filament with better temp-resistance I can print could you tell me? (If you know the highest temperature it could reach safely, that would be helpful too.)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My 3D printer will have a heated bed up to 100°C, and an extruder temp of up to 250°C.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9084" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2018-09-16T12:17:18.753" LastActivityDate="2018-09-16T12:17:18.753" Title="What are the safest temperatures to heat different filaments to?" Tags="|filament|health|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5014" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5013" CreationDate="2017-11-22T03:38:06.960" Score="6" Body="&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Polycarbonate is &lt;a href=&quot;https://rigid.ink/blogs/news/why-3d-print-with-polycarbonate-how-to-get-best-results&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;heat-resistant up to ~120C&lt;/a&gt;. Above this temperature it will gradually become flexible and may irreversibly bend. It will not generate any toxic fumes all the way up to ignition temperature (630C), because &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.noxtat.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/04/MSDS-SheetPC_TEC_2000_TEC_FUSION_2004.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;it's fumes are not considered harmful&lt;/a&gt;. Note though, that with your temperature limit you may not be able to print with polycarbonate, or only do so at a very low speed.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;According to the &lt;a href=&quot;https://filaments.ca/pages/temperature-guide&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;sheets of commercially available printable plastics&lt;/a&gt;, PC has the highest printing temperature and heat resistance among them, seconded by nylon. This refers to the FDM printers only. SLS printers may be able to use other materials, even metals like aluminum or titanium, so if you really wish to get temperature-resistant prints, you may look for workshops that have SLS printers and ask them.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8847" LastEditorUserId="8847" LastEditDate="2017-11-22T04:21:14.260" LastActivityDate="2017-11-22T04:21:14.260" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5015" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-11-22T15:26:58.470" Score="2" ViewCount="2940" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am looking for this fram, but in github there is no download option for it!&#xA;So I did copy the code and paste it, but in result when I measure the big frame's edges it shows bigger 9100mm !! but I think the frame's maximum edge size should be under 45cm?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;May someone put's the .dxf file instead of referencing to github page?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vwilG.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vwilG.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9013" LastActivityDate="2017-11-22T15:26:58.470" Title="Where is .dxf file of this frame(Prusa i3)?" Tags="|prusa-i3|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5016" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5001" CreationDate="2017-11-22T17:44:44.520" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fireservice.co.uk/safety/smoke-alarms/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.fireservice.co.uk/safety/smoke-alarms/&lt;/a&gt; you have these two choices:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Ionisation&lt;/strong&gt;: These are the cheapest and cost very little to purchase.&#xA;  They are very sensitive to small particles of smoke produced by fast&#xA;  flaming fires, such as paper and wood, and will detect this type of&#xA;  fire before the smoke gets too thick. They are marginally less&#xA;  sensitive to slow burning and smouldering fires which give off larger&#xA;  quantities of smoke before flaming occurs. They can also be too&#xA;  over-sensitive near kitchens.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Optical&lt;/strong&gt;: These are more expensive but more effective at detecting&#xA;  larger particles of smoke produced by slow-burning fires, such as&#xA;  smouldering foam-filled upholstery and overheated PVC wiring. They are&#xA;  marginally less sensitive to fast flaming fires. Optical alarms can be&#xA;  installed near (not in) kitchens, as they are less likely than&#xA;  ionisation alarms to go off when toast is burned.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although 'overheated PVC' might tend to point to the optical sensor being best, any fault on a printer is likely to be quite different to a domestic installation fault (I think you're less likely to detect the early warning from a damaged connector since the fault will be physically small).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have an ionisation sensor next to/above the printer, and the only time I had a false-alarm was when I temporarily placed it on the desk.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4927" LastActivityDate="2017-11-22T17:44:44.520" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5017" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5013" CreationDate="2017-11-23T06:19:58.553" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;All plastics have two temperatures to consider for operation and evaluation: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Melting point = the temperature that plastics starts to get soft; this can be considered for maximum temperature operation.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Flow temperature = normally used for molding process and this have a wide range of temperatures depending on PPM´s and mixtures to meet a purpose like coffee cups. &lt;a href=&quot;https://filaments.ca/pages/temperature-guide&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Here&lt;/a&gt; a link for filament temperature guides&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Polycarbonates are the most plastic used for industrial and kitchen appliances. Due higher temperatures support and hardness, so I think is not possible to use polycarbonates in 3D printers due its temperatures are from 250°C to 320°C.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4454" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-06-20T10:29:00.703" LastActivityDate="2018-06-20T10:29:00.703" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5018" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-11-23T10:30:27.347" Score="1" ViewCount="275" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've saved settings in the slicer for pla and abs, set the default bed temp to 90 and extruder to 185. No matter what settings I select to print with, the bed temp sets to 110 and the extruder to 230 when I send a job to print which I don't want. If I then control the heat manually, repetier or the printer  seems to ignore my requests.&#xA;If I try to kill the job I keep getting a box coming up asking me to switch the heats off; I select yes and nothing happens.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I use the emergency stop the heats switch off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9110" LastEditorUserId="9697" LastEditDate="2018-01-20T15:31:19.150" LastActivityDate="2019-06-20T14:12:08.017" Title="Prusa I3x and repetier host heat problems" Tags="|prusa-i3|g-code|repetier|repetier-host|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5020" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4919" CreationDate="2017-11-23T16:10:09.933" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Find another medical facility that is doing it, and ask what equipment and filament they use.  They may also have a source for medical related models.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would expect medical stuff to be regulated by the FDA, so there are probably limitations on what you can get.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1397" LastActivityDate="2017-11-23T16:10:09.933" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5021" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4646" CreationDate="2017-11-24T05:01:43.873" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Franco Cicero is completely correct there is an option to control your printer by using the GPIO of the Raspi. To do this you still need a stepper driver motor or some interface between the GPIO and the steppers/LED/etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More info here: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.buildyourownsla.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=3772&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.buildyourownsla.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=3772&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should really control the LEDs using a mosfet, or even a solid state relay and not just keep them on all the time. The lights should ideally switch on and off for each layer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9115" LastEditorUserId="233" LastEditDate="2017-11-27T12:10:09.133" LastActivityDate="2017-11-27T12:10:09.133" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5022" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4643" CreationDate="2017-11-25T00:11:35.637" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Any deviation from smoothness is caused by irregularity in the material feed, the motion, or both.  In this case, I would suggest both.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem is that current 3D printer control firmware (If someone has a counter-example in the hobbiest space, please add it) prints in linear segments.  This starts as @senthil-j-prakash shows in the conversion of the CAD object to an STL file.  STL files are made of triangles, which are linear structures.  There is no curvature in a triangle, only straight edges and flat faces.  Making the triangles as small as possible helps, but it exacerbates the next problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The second problem is that each line segment is passed as a separate command to the control firmware.  No matter if this is stored on an SD card, or transmitted through USB from the PC to the control firmware, each command defines a short, linear movement.  In an ideal world, the printer would precisely reproduce each of this short, linear motions, which would flow smoothly from one to the next.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately, the &quot;flowing smoothly&quot; part is difficult to implement, and in some cases isn't actually what you want.  If the angle between segments is sharp enough, you don't want to round the corner.  When printing approximations to circles, however, one could move continuously, if the commands were sent enough ahead to analyze, and the firmware were clever enough to combine two segments into one smooth, curving motion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This computation is very difficult to perform on an 8-bit microcontroller, and historically has not been done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am using a 32-bit ARM microcontroller and the RepRap firmware, which also does not smoothly merge motion between two low-angle linear motions into one smoother motion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But, it's not just merging two into one.  One must merge a long series of short, linear moves into a long sequence of curved moves.  We could be doing motion planning based on splines rather than segments.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But then, we need to cap how much the control processor may change the path because the slicing software needs to predict very closely where each extruded element will lie. Adjacent elements (additional perimeters and infill) must be placed to touch those elements for bonding and strength.  if the control processor has moved an element too far, it could either not connect with, or interfere with, an element that is placed later.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But, enough of that rant about the technical difficulties.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For your particular machine, it is likely to be moving in fits and starts because of the short, linear commands.  Anything you do that improves the print quality will help with the ribs, and make them look more like facets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check the belt tension, the backlash, and the stiffness of the whole machine.  Try using slower speed and acceleration settings.  If you are printing from a PC through USB or the network, try printing from an SD card.  (If printing from an SD card, try printing over USB or the network).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck, and keep printing!  Tell others of your experiences.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2082" LastActivityDate="2017-11-25T00:11:35.637" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5023" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5002" CreationDate="2017-11-25T00:28:04.770" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Let's tick off the factors you have already checked for.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It isn't the driver board, because the Z driver board drives the Y motors.  It could be the Z motor itself (or the cable), which you could test by plugging the Z motor into the Y driver board.  If only one of the two motor coils were being energized, it would cause vibration but generate no motion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;@ZuOverture suggests it could be the drive current setting on the motor driver board.  Possible, especially if the Z motor requires more current.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is also possible that the output pin from the Arduino Mega board may be bad, or not connecting well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To investigate, find the step and direction inputs to the stepper driver board.  Use a voltmeter, logic probe, or oscilloscope to verify the signal levels.  If the signals don't jiggle when moving the motor, then follow the wires and check at each point along the way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could also plug in a replacement Arduino, which you have programmed with the firmware, and check if that works.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the Arduino pin is bad, you can keep it in your junk box for future projects.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looking at the firmware angle, one would check the speed and acceleration settings for the Z axis.  When in doubt, try slower speed and lower acceleration.  Z-axis performance doesn't make much difference in the printing speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2082" LastActivityDate="2017-11-25T00:28:04.770" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5024" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4643" CreationDate="2017-11-25T03:16:09.180" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Thank you all for your valuable input. I have come to find out that the issue was because of a host of movement related issues. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Print speed is too fast. I have since reduced it. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There were some firmware related settings that needed adjusting. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found after making the appropriate changes, my circular prints came out beautifully!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8477" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-08-10T10:46:44.383" LastActivityDate="2018-08-10T10:46:44.383" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5025" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5009" CreationDate="2017-11-25T06:36:58.137" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is not exactly my part, but the holes place are true. I think if someone measures the bed dimensions( for me it's 21.9mm * 21.9mm) and orders a plate in this size, he can also make holes later with drill(I did it before for another part of my plexi to attach the power supply).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1310778&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1310778&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AE06h.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AE06h.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9013" LastActivityDate="2017-11-25T06:36:58.137" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5027" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-11-25T16:08:32.823" Score="5" ViewCount="4764" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have seen some photos of aluminum based Prusa i3 printers, and I like to know the numbers and the specs of the profiles? Also I want to know Is the first pic strong enough for reliable printer or I must use the second(respect to profiles I mean).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JcgdB.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JcgdB.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qjfBM.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qjfBM.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9013" LastActivityDate="2018-06-20T10:14:39.257" Title="I am looking for the aluminum profile parts specs for this prusa i3 printer?" Tags="|prusa-i3|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5028" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5027" CreationDate="2017-11-25T18:39:56.513" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;They are 2020 (20mm x 20mm) T-slot extrusions. They should not be confused with V-slot extrusions, which are similar to T-slot, but have a 45-degree slot profile to accommodate V-slot wheels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are contemplating a new build, I would recommend using V-slot. Note that T-slot and V-slot come in a number of sizes (in multiples of 20mm). A 2040 profile is 20mm x 40mm, and will have two slots on the wider sides. Other sizes are available, such as 2060, 2080, 4040, and even C-shaped profiles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may want to use 2040 profiles for greater rigidity, especially if you are contemplating a large build volume.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that there are imperial as well as metric T-slot profiles. RepRap uses metric profiles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://reprap.org/wiki/T-Slot&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;ReRap Wiki: T-slot&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://openbuildspartstore.com/linear-rail/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;OpenBuilds: V-slot&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3953" LastEditorUserId="3953" LastEditDate="2017-11-25T19:22:41.977" LastActivityDate="2017-11-25T19:22:41.977" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5030" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5032" CreationDate="2017-11-26T18:29:55.927" Score="1" ViewCount="54" Body="&lt;p&gt;I haven't purchased a 3D printer yet, I've been working on the software and electronics for my project and now I'm about ready to get a printer, haven't decide on which yet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Recommendations welcome.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My project will put 3 rows of Neopixels on the windscreen of my car, attached to the top inside.  I intend to print the container in sections that will slow together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to allow for the curvature of the windscreen in the design of the container and this is my question, I want to design a container that will hold 3 rows of Neopixel strips, thats the easy part, I want the container to fit neatly against the windscreen with no gaps, how do I work out the curve of the windscreen so I can put this onto the enclosure ready for printing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The enclose will be as wide as the read windscreen and split into printable sections that will slot together for installation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The car this is going into is an Audi A5 2012.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1093" LastActivityDate="2017-11-26T23:04:41.440" Title="Project help, printing a Neopixel enclosure to secure to a car rear windscreen" Tags="|enclosure|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5031" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4944" CreationDate="2017-11-26T19:02:51.583" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The problem was in the wiring of the motor. According to different sources it says to check wiring, everything seemed ok, but I've found one wire was damaged.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8909" LastActivityDate="2017-11-26T19:02:51.583" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5032" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5030" CreationDate="2017-11-26T22:50:00.280" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's a handy tool for replicating curves that use a series of plastic or metal fingers in a sliding mount. One presses all the fingers to one side, then presses the bracket to the desired surface until all fingers are in contact. The opposite side now represents the measured curve and can be traced into a modeling program.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For your purposes, that is unlikely to work, as the tool is perhaps six inches long, far too short to span your windscreen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Consider the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Attach a string to each edge of the windscreen or wedge a thin rod from one side to the other. This provides you with a straight line reference. Measure as nearly as possible to perpendicular from the reference string to the windscreen surface. I have a laser measuring device that has 1/16&quot; or 1 mm accuracy above certain distance, which would not work well in this case as you approach zero at the edges.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Start in the center, record your measurement, and move an appropriate distance outward. I suggest you need only approximately 20-30 mm spacing as you are collecting points on a curve, which are likely to be relatively uniform and easily reproduced in software.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your graph now has zero, zero on the left, and say 750 mm, 40 mm on the right, with matching numbers in the middle. On real paper, turn it into a graph, or use a suitable vector editing software such as Inkscape and duplicate it there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on the shape of your window, you may have to replicate the process at different heights in order to get a proper representation of the curve of the glass.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you have the dots, run a Bezier curve through the dots. The resulting like can be extruded or otherwise converted into the segments necessary for your 3D printing project.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastEditorUserId="854" LastEditDate="2017-11-26T23:04:41.440" LastActivityDate="2017-11-26T23:04:41.440" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5033" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-11-27T04:19:56.243" Score="2" ViewCount="1139" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use a Prusa i3, and this is ABS printed part with 225/90°C. Why did this happen?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qQbFC.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;First ABS print - image#1&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qQbFC.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;First ABS print - image#1&quot; title=&quot;First ABS print - image#1&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1gaXz.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;First ABS print - image#2&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1gaXz.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;First ABS print - image#2&quot; title=&quot;First ABS print - image#2&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UTvir.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;First ABS print - image#3&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UTvir.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;First ABS print - image#3&quot; title=&quot;First ABS print - image#3&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vf8gr.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;First ABS print - image#4&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vf8gr.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;First ABS print - image#4&quot; title=&quot;First ABS print - image#4&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried to print this part again with new settings on Slic3r (I used Cura for previous print), but I got the same result. I found that the problem is because the model starts to bend after about 1&amp;nbsp;cm height. Also the blue tape starts to separate from the bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't use the fan for printing part (although the MK8 extruder's fan works all the time), and the temperature for the new part was (225/85°C first layer and 220/80°C for other layers). Also I must say that the adhesion of the model sticks to the bed is very good and strong, but it is bent! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VyzWW.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Second ABS print - image#1&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VyzWW.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Second ABS print - image#1&quot; title=&quot;Second ABS print - image#1&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hWTjh.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Second ABS print - image#1&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hWTjh.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Second ABS print - image#2&quot; title=&quot;Second ABS print - image#1&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9013" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-07-02T20:19:14.057" LastActivityDate="2018-07-02T20:20:49.407" Title="My 3D printing part starts to bending after about 1 cm height and blue tape separates from bed" Tags="|prusa-i3|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5034" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5038" CreationDate="2017-11-27T12:20:48.767" Score="5" ViewCount="8022" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm using an Anet A8 with Marlin 1.1.6.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've read countless guides on PID auto-tuning and never saw that the fan needed to be on, but when I look at the Marlin source code's ANet A8 configuration (here: &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/blob/1.1.x/Marlin/example_configurations/Anet/A8/Configuration.h&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;example_configurations\ANet\A8\Configuration.h&lt;/a&gt;) it states:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;  ...&#xA;&#xA;  // ANET A8 Standard Extruder at 210 Degree Celsius and 100% Fan&#xA;  //(measured after M106 S255 with M303 E0 S210 C8)&#xA;  #define  DEFAULT_Kp 21.0&#xA;  #define  DEFAULT_Ki 1.25&#xA;  #define  DEFAULT_Kd 86.0&#xA;&#xA;#endif // PIDTEMP&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, should activate the fan before running the auto-test if I wish to update the PID values in Marlin for my Anet A8?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8888" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-07-08T12:00:37.287" LastActivityDate="2018-07-08T12:00:37.287" Title="Should I be doing PID auto-tuning with my fan at 100% (Anet A8)" Tags="|marlin|anet-a8|cooling|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5035" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5041" CreationDate="2017-11-27T13:36:44.387" Score="4" ViewCount="364" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am modelling a few cut templates to be used on an hexagonal grid (honeycomb) material using OpenSCAD.  Basically, from a reference cell, I need to select all cells that are within a given range and given angle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I implemented this by creating an in memory grid that covers an area larger than what I need (extra range, 360 degrees), and then testing each cell for both the distance and angle requirements, extruding only those that test positive for both conditions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Everything works as expected...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vzJD0.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vzJD0.png&quot; alt=&quot;Range = 15, Angle = 60°&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;...but now I would also like to add the possibility to have the outer contour of the template without having each individual cell within it (so, a single thin line going around the whole &quot;pizza slice&quot; above).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm pretty new to OpenSCAD: what would be the best approach here?&#xA;(I'm happy even with a solution that requires to re-implement what done until now).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9134" LastActivityDate="2017-11-28T01:07:01.657" Title="How to remove internal part of a hex grid" Tags="|3d-design|openscad|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5036" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5035" CreationDate="2017-11-27T14:26:53.853" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately, OpenSCAD does not have a 2D hull() transformation, although it has been requested. You might be able to find a pre-written package that implements a 2D hull. However, if all you want is a hexagonal grid with a border of some arbitrary shape, could you not cheat, and get your slicer to generate the grid for you? All you would need to do is generate the envelope, and then slice with a hexagonal grid as in-fill, and request no top or bottom layers. Most slicers will do hexagonal in-fill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to do it all in OpenSCAD, then I would go about it like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Create a 2D grid, similar to what you have now.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Create a 2D outline of the shape you want, undersized so that you can add a manifold (as a perimeter).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Duplicate this shape.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Add a manifold to the first copy.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Create an intersection of the second copy and the grid.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Create a union of the two copies.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Extrude the union.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3953" LastEditorUserId="3953" LastEditDate="2017-11-27T14:39:16.203" LastActivityDate="2017-11-27T14:39:16.203" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5037" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5040" CreationDate="2017-11-27T14:29:51.583" Score="3" ViewCount="130" Body="&lt;p&gt;I made a scan and got a cloud point file, but the cloud point is not that good, but I need to print it in a 3d printer as soon as possible, just to see how it would look. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically it's missing some points that were not scanned properly due to it being transparent at those points. I'd like to add those points manually (using meshlab preferably) and create a surface with them .. something that makes this file printable. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know I could edit this file manually since it is an ascii file with the values of xyz .. but that is a lot of trouble and certainly there is a faster way to do this with a free tool. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9136" LastActivityDate="2021-11-03T05:26:40.503" Title="Adding points to a point cloud" Tags="|3d-models|scanning|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5038" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5034" CreationDate="2017-11-27T16:20:25.983" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should run the fan at what you expect it to be at the majority of the time it is printing.  If you tune at 100% fan and never use a fan then it will be too aggressive, if you tune at 0% fan and use the fan then you will struggle to maintain/reach temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="233" LastActivityDate="2017-11-27T16:20:25.983" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5040" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5037" CreationDate="2017-11-27T19:36:11.523" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;A good free tool for editing meshes would be &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.blender.org/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Blender&lt;/a&gt;. Linux, Windows, Mac are supported. It has a serious learning curve, and is somewhat counter-intuitive in use (right click object to select) unless you customize it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Plenty of online video tutorials to learn the basics, though, and if you have a membership for Lynda.com, those videos are the best (opinion).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've used it to pull edges and vertices together, to chop out pieces that weren't supposed to be there, etc. The flexibility and power of the program is amazing, considering the price.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many artists use the program for creating 3D animations and full length movies. Amazing talent, well beyond my capabilities, but it shows what the software can do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The website also has links to tutorials and the &lt;a href=&quot;https://docs.blender.org/manual/en/dev/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;manual&lt;/a&gt;, which is also a work of art.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pfxcY.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pfxcY.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;blender manual pic&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can devote the time to learn the program, anything 3D modeling related will be within reach.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastActivityDate="2017-11-27T19:36:11.523" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5041" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5035" CreationDate="2017-11-28T01:07:01.657" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I ended up finding a reasonable solution myself:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mp3ET.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mp3ET.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically, I diffed two identical, non-hollow geometries, in which the first one had the cells larger than they needed to be (so overlapping with others), and the second one had them exactly of the right dimension:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;difference() {&#xA;  base_geometry(range, angle, infill, extra_padding = 2);&#xA;  base_geometry(range, angle, infill, extra_padding = 0);&#xA;}&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This way the only portion of the solid remaining was the &lt;code&gt;extra_padding&lt;/code&gt; on the outer edges of the geometry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9134" LastActivityDate="2017-11-28T01:07:01.657" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5044" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5046" CreationDate="2017-11-28T18:09:44.930" Score="10" ViewCount="14357" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have created a budget 3d printer using parts of old computers, specifically I used the CD drive mechanisms for the x,y and z axis. This printer is similar to the curiosity E-Waste printer, as seen here: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.instructables.com/id/Curiosity-120-eWaste-Educational-3D-Printer/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Link&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After quite a bit of time working on it I have got to the point where my printer should be able to print, but unfortunately, I have encountered an issue.&#xA;The layers in which the printer prints fluctuate in height, and so when the nozzle travels over the lower layers to do the next layer, it hits a bump, misses some steps and becomes mis-aligned. I have never owned a 3d printer before, but I think that it is likely that the problem I have which causes the prints to not be flat is likely a common 3d printer problem. However, with  commercial 3D printers, these bumps would probably only cause a drop in the quality of the print and not a complete fail; it is only due to how weak my motors are that the nozzle will miss a step with even the slightest force against it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have thought about why the layers may not be flat and I have come up with a few possibilities that I think are the problem. I do not know if these are in fact the source of the issue, but these are the things that I have considered so far.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The nozzle height when starting the print. If I lower it then the layer height will be smaller, and so there is less chance for it to be higher in different places. However upon testing this I found that, due to the reduced height upon the first layer the nozzle would get stuck.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When the nozzle changes direction, for example at the edges of the print, there is significant vibration and it is possible that this cause the filament to overlap and not be flat. The vibration is due to the nature of my printer and would be very hard to reduce. A solution could be some kind of software fix, but I do not know enough about this to do so.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Maybe the speed at which I am printing is not good. I'm printing currently at an incredibly slow 40mm/s.I have tried different speeds but at low speeds there is over extrusion and at high speeds, the vibration is too much.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I have tried experimenting with flow rate (100%,75%,and 50%) and at the moment I am using 50%. This is because my extruder motor is a bit weak and often misses steps, also the filament requires considerable force to push it through. Is this normal?. My idea is that maybe there is too much filament being extruded and so if I lower the flow rate the print will not create bumps.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The filament curls slightly when it comes out of the nozzle and I have tried to fix this by cleaning it and printing faster but it is only reduced. I'm printing at 200° currently; Will higher or lower print temperatures cause the filament to curl less and be more easy to push through the hot end?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you can see there are a lot of factors in which I need to consider if I want my printer to be able to print correctly. And unfortunately, with my printer it is either perfect or a failed print; there is no in between. Due to the weak motors everything has to be exactly right, or the nozzle will get stuck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am not sure how to add videos here so I will instead. add some photos of the prints, and three photos detailing how the prints fail.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Below is an image containing the 6 most recent prints in which I played around with the different factors mentioned above. The top middle one is the most recent one. The object i am trying to print is a simple cuboid.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4ySFX.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4ySFX.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;The 6 most recent prints in which I played around with the different factors mentioned above the top middle one is the most recent one&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is what the first layer of my most recent print looked like. There is some kind of gap in the middle for some reason, but I don't think that is the source of the error. The print appears to have adhered well, at this point and it is relatively flat.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VTHqV.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VTHqV.png&quot; alt=&quot;first layer of print&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is what the second layer of the print looked like, notice how the lines are wobbly and not very neat. There is also a small area of higher height in the bottom left corner which inevitably causes the nozzle to get stuck.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/v7cPZ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/v7cPZ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the print after the nozzle hit the now cooled down blob, missed some steps and then was misaligned. It then goes on to print the next layer in the wrong place and gets stuck very badly.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/n2hCS.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/n2hCS.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you, for reading this. Any help would be much appreciated&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8989" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:29:41.667" LastActivityDate="2017-11-28T22:17:35.997" Title="How can I prevent my nozzle catching on my print?" Tags="|print-quality|extruder|diy-3d-printer|fdm|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5045" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-11-28T19:56:17.623" Score="2" ViewCount="61" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am trying to print a large part from PolyPro but can't get it to stop warping when I remove it. It also doesn't stick well. I have tried playing with printing speeds, temps, extrusion % etc. Even tried putting packing tape on the bed (which helped it stick but didn't prevent the warping).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I thought I might try printing a base layer (2&amp;nbsp;mm) of PLA, the print the rest of the the part in PP right on top of it. The PLA hopefully will stick and keep the walls of the part straight. My question is how to do this. Is it as easy as cutting off the bottom 2&amp;nbsp;mm of the part and telling the design software that the part rests 2&amp;nbsp;mm above the bed, then tell Cura not to print a support?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9153" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-06-20T09:46:49.477" LastActivityDate="2018-06-20T09:46:49.477" Title="Printing a part from two materials" Tags="|prusa-i3|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5046" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5044" CreationDate="2017-11-28T22:17:35.997" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;A printer must be working very well to not have the problem with the head hitting against small verticle protuberances and losing control of the X and Y positions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some factors I've found that make bigger bumps.  If you have any of these, fixing them will make the problem better.  From observation, it is ultimately the power of the motors, the ability fo the nozzle to melt through small bumps and the resilience of the mechanism (not something that is otherwise helpful) that let decent prints proceed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The first layer may not be the height you expect.  First layers are&#xA;typically 100% filled.  If you are extruding too much plastic for&#xA;the layer height, it has to go into a bump.  To fix this, check your&#xA;vertical height.  Measure with calipers the height of the flat&#xA;portions of a 1-layer print, and compare that with your slicer&#xA;expectation.  Adjust the vertical offset to make the actual meet the&#xA;intended. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You may be extruding too much plastic.  Depending on your&#xA;slicer, you can adjust this by tweaking.  I user slic3r, and can&#xA;adjust the filament diameter.  Overstating the diameter causes&#xA;under-extrusion.  Understating the diameter will cause over&#xA;extrusion. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sometimes the bumps come mostly at changes of direction. &#xA;This is possibly caused by several things, but I'd look first for&#xA;backlash.  The mechanism should be tight, and not move under&#xA;moderate side-to-side or front-to-back force.  If it jiggles, it&#xA;will can cause problems.  Wiggle it.  Look at what moves.  Should it&#xA;move?  If belt driven, the belts should be tight.  If driven with a&#xA;lead screw, the nut should not move and the screw should not move. &#xA;If they do, fix it somehow.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you are running the motors near the maximum speed and/or&#xA;acceleration, their torque will be lower than if they are running&#xA;slower.  Try slowing everything down by a factor of two and see how&#xA;the problem changes.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It might help to print at a higher temperature, so the nozzle can&#xA;melt through the bumps with less force.  This could cause other&#xA;problems, but if you are marginally cool now, warmer might work&#xA;better.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2082" LastActivityDate="2017-11-28T22:17:35.997" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5047" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5033" CreationDate="2017-11-28T22:24:28.167" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;My best results with ABS have been with a hot bed (100 degrees C), and using the &quot;acetone/ABS slurry&quot; to stick the print to the bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was not able to get ABS to stick well enough to blue tape at low bed temperatures, and at high bed temperatures the blue tape would sometimes separate from the bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The ABS slurry is applied to the cold bed, and gives you an ABS film intimately attached to the bed.  It will be a thick enough film to carry the color, so it is best to make the slurry with the same color as you will be printing with.&#xA;There is no absolute ration of acetone to ABS that should be used for the mixture.  In service, the acetone evaporates.  A thicker slurry will leave a thicker coating.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I use flux brushes (sometimes called acid brushes) to apply the slurry, although one can also use a watercolor brush, or just pour a small puddle on a bed if it is level enough to not run off the edge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2082" LastActivityDate="2017-11-28T22:24:28.167" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5048" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-11-29T05:34:03.357" Score="9" ViewCount="1225" Body="&lt;p&gt;The short version of my question is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Are 3D printed parts made of ABS likely to survive for &lt;strong&gt;one year&lt;/strong&gt; in an incubator at &lt;strong&gt;80℃&lt;/strong&gt;?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please read on for more details.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am printing some parts that will be used inside an incubator in a lab. They are likely to be used at 80℃ for at least a year, possibly even at higher temperatures than that. (But most likely under 100℃.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We're currently using ABS for these parts. My question is whether 3D printed ABS will degrade under those conditions. (For example: will it become soft and slump; will it discolour; will it become brittle?) The parts clip together to form quite a big object, which is basically a rack holding a lot of glass vials, so it's important that it stays rigid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did find some papers on thermal degradation of ABS (for example &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S0141391002000459&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;this one&lt;/a&gt; looks quite comprehensive) but I don't have the experience to interpret them in terms of how my parts will behave practically. I'm also not sure if being 3D printed will make a difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If ABS is not suitable for this kind of application, are there other plastics that are? We're using the Zortrax M200, so our choices are the plastics listed &lt;a href=&quot;https://zortrax.com/materials/zortrax-m-series/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;. I note that PCABS is listed as specifically being temperature resistant, so we might go with that - but we'd prefer ABS if it will work, since it comes in white rather than ivory (which is important for our application) and we have plenty of it available.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;update:&lt;/strong&gt; we decided in the end that using ABS is too risky, so we went with PCABS and we'll just live with the yellowish colour. (We might paint it white.) It's currently in the oven on a test run, and if it doesn't fail in a few weeks we'll take the risk of running the year-long experiment with this material. However, we would still &lt;em&gt;very greatly&lt;/em&gt; appreciate advice from anyone who has concrete knowledge or experience of this kind of situation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="612" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2018-09-16T12:17:09.637" LastActivityDate="2018-09-16T12:17:09.637" Title="Thermal degradation of 3D printed ABS (and other plastics)" Tags="|print-material|filament-choice|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5049" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5063" CreationDate="2017-11-29T05:59:45.217" Score="3" ViewCount="4666" Body="&lt;p&gt;I expected that the movement of an axis would start slowly, become faster and then run at a constant speed when reaching the maximum speed, then slow down slowly and arrive at the target point at the lowest speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At my DIY machine, however, I achieve a constant, very low speed at the beginning, then jumpy change to the maximum speed, finally a also jumpy change to the low speed, which also happens at the beginning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've been working on the Marlin settings for days, but I haven't had the slightest success.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why don't I get any rising and falling ramps, why the sudden change?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These are my current Marlin settings:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;G21    ; Units in mm&#xA;M149 C ; Units in Celsius &#xA;Filament settings: Disabled&#xA;M200 D1.75&#xA;M200 T1 D1.75&#xA;M200 D0&#xA;&#xA;Steps per unit:&#xA;M92 X800.00 Y640.00 Z800.00 E500.00&#xA;&#xA;Maximum feedrates (units/s):&#xA;M203 X200.00 Y200.00 Z12.00 E25.00&#xA;&#xA;Maximum Acceleration (units/s2):&#xA;M201 X5000 Y5000 Z1000 E10000&#xA;&#xA;Acceleration (units/s2):&#xA;P&amp;lt;print_accel&amp;gt; R&amp;lt;retract_accel&amp;gt; T&amp;lt;travel_accel&amp;gt;&#xA;M204 P3000.00 R3000.00 T3000.00&#xA;&#xA;Advanced: S&amp;lt;min_feedrate&amp;gt; T&amp;lt;min_travel_feedrate&amp;gt; B&amp;lt;min_segment_time_ms&amp;gt; X&amp;lt;max_xy_jerk&amp;gt; Z&amp;lt;max_z_jerk&amp;gt; E&amp;lt;max_e_jerk&amp;gt;&#xA;M205 S0.00 T1000.00 B20000 X10.00 Y10.00 Z1.00 E5.00&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What's the secret of a beautiful ramp?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="6093" LastEditDate="2017-12-04T12:02:25.540" LastActivityDate="2017-12-04T13:45:59.853" Title="Acceleration with Marlin" Tags="|marlin|acceleration|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5050" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5033" CreationDate="2017-11-29T06:09:06.747" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Multiple problems here. Let's try to isolate them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Blue tape. Good for PLA, not suitable for ABS. ABS works fine with kapton tape, glue stick, hair spray, ABS juice over glass, aluminum or PCB epoxy composite board.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Always use at least brim feature to ensure good adhesion along the edges (your last photos have none). For parts with small hotbed contact area use raft.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hotbed temperature should be 100°C+, because at 80°C adhesion is weaker. If you can't raise hotbed temperature to 100°C, think about thermal insulation.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Layers of plastic don't stick to each other. Either plastic comes from extruder being already cold (check that there are no draughts of cold air nearby), or you're printing too fast (50&amp;nbsp;mm/s should generally work, if not try 30&amp;nbsp;mm/s).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;No infill between walls. Either it is set to 0 or optimized out by some option.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Round walls aren't round. Either printing speed problem, or your belts are loose.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Underextrusion. Bottom of your first print looks like mesh rather than solid surface. Check that plastic flow is around 100%.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also check that your thermoresistor measures the actual temperature of the extruder (i.e. is in direct contact with it). Otherwise you will get overheated plastic extrusion, which looks like your first photos.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, print a 1&amp;nbsp;cm cube first. Don't do anything complex, just cube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8847" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-07-02T20:20:49.407" LastActivityDate="2018-07-02T20:20:49.407" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5051" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5033" CreationDate="2017-11-29T15:06:46.587" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Try putting your printer into a heated chamber, and when the print is finished, slowly decrease the temperature of the chamber. I would also recommend using putting something like buildtak or printbite onto your buildplate. If you are not able to do that I would recommend putting some purple gluestick onto the bed, or a few spritz of hairspray should do the trick.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7019" LastActivityDate="2017-11-29T15:06:46.587" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5053" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5054" CreationDate="2017-11-29T16:07:25.517" Score="3" ViewCount="551" Body="&lt;p&gt;I’m trying to have &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2576121&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this bracket&lt;/a&gt; printed, but I don’t know what settings I should use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yTFRkm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yTFRkm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Google Home Mini Invisible Mount&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The project details say 50% for infill, but is there a reason why I wouldn’t get 100% for making it sturdier?  I imagine the developer used 50% because he used his own printer and wanted to preserve more material.  The 3D printer service I’m using doesn’t charge more for 100%.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I’m more concerned about the material I should select.  Should I select PLA or ABS?  The developer didn’t specify this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9177" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-08-01T12:33:21.390" LastActivityDate="2018-08-01T12:33:21.390" Title="What infill settings and material type do I need?" Tags="|pla|abs|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5054" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5053" CreationDate="2017-11-29T17:38:01.053" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;For such a small item and the small load it will carry, even 50 percent is substantial. Keep in mind that one hundred percent infill is not necessarily stronger. If you need to know why, consider a 'net search for &quot;why not use 100% infill&quot; for more detailed information. The primary foundation for not using 100% infill is that the stress is better distributed over the structure of a non-100% part, while the completely filled part has more intra-layer stress failure. Another link suggests that there's a possibility of increased warping with full infill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because the load is small, it matters very little if you select PLA over ABS. PLA is more brittle compared to ABS and will crack or fracture or break under loads that might otherwise cause the same part in ABS to bend.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you need yet more strength, select PETG or nylon, although I suspect either one would be more expensive from a service.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you select ABS, you can use acetone smoothing later to make a shiny surface, but that's cosmetic, not structural. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastActivityDate="2017-11-29T17:38:01.053" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5055" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-12-01T05:53:46.393" Score="5" ViewCount="1843" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am using &lt;strong&gt;Flashforge Creator Pro&lt;/strong&gt; and a &lt;strong&gt;Flashforge Finder&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CE1Aa.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Flashforge 3D printers&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CE1Aa.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Flashforge 3D printers&quot; title=&quot;Flashforge 3D printers&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to know which NEMA stepper model is used in each of these two printers, or is it NEMA 17 for both? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Their model numbers are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;code&gt;42HB40F08AB-04 [W-42MM, L-40MM]&lt;/code&gt;, and;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;code&gt;42HD4027-01[W-42MM, L-40MM]&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8980" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2019-08-31T09:27:47.377" LastActivityDate="2019-08-31T09:27:47.377" Title="Nema Stepper used in Flashforge 3D printer" Tags="|stepper|flashforge-creator|flashforge|flashforge-finder|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5058" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5055" CreationDate="2017-12-01T15:13:05.703" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It most likely uses a nema 17 stepper motor. These are the most commonly used stepper motors. Since it is also the same company there is good reason to believe it uses the same steppers. Why must you know, anyways?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7019" LastActivityDate="2017-12-01T15:13:05.703" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5059" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5055" CreationDate="2017-12-01T15:43:16.433" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Nema 17 is about the physical size of the motor, ie screw hole placement. It doesn't specify anything about the power of the motor. If you are looking to replace the motor, you need quite a bit more info than that it is Nema 17, such as the steps/rotation and the holding torque.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8038" LastActivityDate="2017-12-01T15:43:16.433" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5060" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3793" CreationDate="2017-12-01T15:48:23.550" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Try using simplify 3d. It's a very powerful slicing software compatible with almost every 3d printer. It does cost 150 dollars, but that would be the only drawback to using that software. You can manually place supports around your model without having he software mess it up. I think this is exactly what you're looking for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7019" LastActivityDate="2017-12-01T15:48:23.550" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5061" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5053" CreationDate="2017-12-01T15:56:51.603" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should use PLA at 215 °C (for better layer adhesion) with 35 percent infill and a shell thickness of 2&amp;nbsp;mm. Shell thickness is what's crucial here, not necessarily infill. The thicker the shell, the stronger the part. This has a much bigger influence on strength than infill does.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7019" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-08-01T06:13:08.977" LastActivityDate="2018-08-01T06:13:08.977" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5062" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5159" CreationDate="2017-12-01T21:18:41.577" Score="6" ViewCount="19591" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been working at converting game files into 3d files that can be printed, but many of the models have very thin or walls. I was wondering if there was a way to increase the thickness of the walls using meshmixer or meshlab.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6883" LastActivityDate="2018-06-25T20:19:59.177" Title="How to make walls thicker using meshmixer or meshlab" Tags="|3d-models|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5063" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5049" CreationDate="2017-12-01T22:02:30.117" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your steps/mm settings are very high. Assuming you are running an ATMEGA based controller, like RAMPS, you will only be able to move at very slow feed rates (&amp;lt;20mm/s). There are also many &lt;em&gt;hardware&lt;/em&gt; factors that influence your maximum speed at a given steps/mm (which is typically referred to a your maximum &lt;a href=&quot;http://reprap.org/wiki/Step_rates&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;step rate&lt;/a&gt;):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Supplied voltage&lt;/strong&gt;. Using too high/low voltage can cause poor stepper performance or create unexpected faults at high/low step rates.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Motor specifications&lt;/strong&gt;. Stepper motors come in a dizzying number of models with varying specifications. This is because each one is tailored to a specific use case.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Stepper Driver&lt;/strong&gt;. There are a bunch of driver designs and manufacturers out there and none of them should be considered equal. It also matters how you setup the driver in terms of current/voltage limits, microstepping, decay modes, heat syncing, etc.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Wiring&lt;/strong&gt;. At high step rates the inductance of the wires between your controller and motors start to matter more, as does interference to/from other electrical devices.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you aren't sure how to set/select/tune the things above it's best to just mimic what is done on common printers like the Prusa i3, which have robust designs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In more direct regard to your Marlin settings, your acceleration and feedrate values are very high for an untested printer. It's best to start with conservative values (Accel ~500mm/s^2, Feedrate &amp;lt;10mm/s) and work your way up 10% at a time until you start having issues, then back off ~20% from there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6093" LastEditorUserId="6093" LastEditDate="2017-12-01T22:10:30.863" LastActivityDate="2017-12-01T22:10:30.863" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5064" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5048" CreationDate="2017-12-01T22:34:53.377" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would recommend &lt;a href=&quot;http://taulman3d.com/bluprint-spec.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Taulman Bluprint&lt;/a&gt;, which has a T&lt;sub&gt;g&lt;/sub&gt; of 100&amp;nbsp;°C and prints around 250&amp;nbsp;°C. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I got a small sample and it printed well with the recommended settings. I didn't do any thermal testing with my print (I made a knob for a lawn mower with it) but Taulman has a solid reputation for engineered filaments.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6093" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-08-01T12:07:21.633" LastActivityDate="2018-08-01T12:07:21.633" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5065" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5062" CreationDate="2017-12-01T22:38:41.473" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Only today, I learned of a solution for this sort of objective, but it uses Fusion 360 rather than Meshmixer  or Meshlab. As your question does not include that program, I'll toss the Meshmixer method.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This image is of the model prior to modification:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XsIS5.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XsIS5.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;untouched model&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you load your STL file into MM, use Edit, Generate Face Groups. This will cause the surfaces to change color. Click Accept.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With face groups created:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/W5gZL.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/W5gZL.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;face groups created&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can be assured of all one surface, use Select, then double click on the interior. This should turn the entire interior red. If you discover unselected surfaces, simply click on those surfaces until all is completed. If you select a surface in error, use Shift-Click to clear that one surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once selected, the select menu gives you a new edit menu. &#xA;Use Edit, Offset for yet another menu. As you make changes in the menu settings, you'll see the results on the model. Ideally, you won't have an overly complex model with too many facets/triangles, as it can really bog a machine down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This particular model has a nearly uniform interior. Double clicking on the inside surface caused the full cylinder (not the bottom) to be selected (turning red).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Low accuracy offset, with surfaces still selected:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/54Lv0.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/54Lv0.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;low accuracy&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For smoothest results, keep the accuracy high. Any protruberance in the interior will give very strange results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;High accuracy results, surfaces selected:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vLrMk.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vLrMk.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;high accuracy&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Experiment with the settings, aim for the best result and click accept. As long as you don't export the model over your original, all experimentation is a learning experience and not a destructive one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastActivityDate="2017-12-01T22:38:41.473" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5066" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5083" CreationDate="2017-12-02T19:39:42.413" Score="8" ViewCount="2472" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently bought an Anet A8 (&lt;a href=&quot;https://pevly.com/anet-a8-3d-printer-review/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://pevly.com/anet-a8-3d-printer-review/&lt;/a&gt;). I've managed to get everything up and running, leveled the board, but am now running into a problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the start of the print, the printer moves to 0,0,0, bumps into the switches a couple times (I assume to calibrate or so?), and then starts &quot;printing&quot;. But the nozzle &quot;randomly&quot; moves to either an X of 0 or an Y of 0 before returning to the printing position. This movement seems to pull off any basis the printer managed to lay down, which then forms a nice &quot;ball&quot; on the nozzle, to which the rest gets stuck. (I'm still having some other issues with getting the filament to stick to the bed, but there's plenty I still have to try out for that.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;During one attempt of printing a very simple small cube, I carefully pulled the filament &quot;ball&quot; from the nozzle while it did one of those movements to X 0, and afterwards it managed to lay down the bottom layer perfectly fine. This causes me to believe those movements are the biggest problem I'm facing right now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After it did the first layer, it moved up a bit, moved to X 0, back to the model, and got stuck on a piece of plastic that was standing upwards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These movements seem to happen at around the same phase in the print, and happen quite consistently. Is this normal behavior? If so, how do I make sure the filament does not get pulled off during these weird movements? If not, how do I get rid of them?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(No, not a duplicate of &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/962/printer-randomly-moves-to-home-during-printing-then-resumes-as-normal&quot;&gt;Printer randomly moves to home during printing, then resumes as normal&lt;/a&gt; as I print directly from PC.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit to add more information:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I use Cura 3.0.4 for printing, the stock Anet A8 firmware, and am attempting to print the cube model that comes with Windows 10. (Yes, I've tried different models, same result.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I seem to have more issues, in the video it's visible that the feeding does not seem to work too great, but I think the random movements are the most clear and biggest problem right now, so I should tackle that first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In Cura I've used the Pruisa I3 printer, with the following G-codes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;G21 ;metric values&#xA;G90 ;absolute positioning&#xA;M82 ;set extruder to absolute mode&#xA;M107 ;start with the fan off&#xA;G28 X0 Y0 ;move X/Y to min endstops&#xA;G28 Z0 ;move Z to min endstops&#xA;G29&#xA;G1 Z15.0 F9000 ;move the platform down 15mm&#xA;G92 E0 ;zero the extruded length&#xA;G1 F200 E3 ;extrude 3mm of feed stock&#xA;G92 E0 ;zero the extruded length again&#xA;G1 F9000&#xA;M117 Printing...&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and end&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;M104 S0 ;extruder heater off&#xA;M140 S0 ;heated bed heater off (if you have it)&#xA;G91 ;relative positioning&#xA;G1 E-1 F300  ;retract the filament a bit before lifting the nozzle, to release some of the pressure&#xA;G1 Z+0.5 E-5 X-20 Y-20 F9000 ;move Z up a bit and retract filament even more&#xA;G28 X0 Y0 ;move X/Y to min endstops, so the head is out of the way&#xA;M84 ;steppers off&#xA;G90 ;absolute positioning&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Yes, I added in the G29 in the start code manually, as I bought the official auto-leveling sensor. I'm not sure if it works though, but I read somewhere that I might need a different version of the firmware to support it properly.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/lrk8iG1H4ig&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;And here's a video showing what my printer does do exactly.&lt;/a&gt; It started printing from the center in this case, it seems to randomly either move to the middle or to 0,0,0 when I abort the print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9237" LastEditorUserId="9237" LastEditDate="2017-12-03T20:05:57.793" LastActivityDate="2021-12-02T20:26:54.370" Title="Nozzle always &quot;randomly&quot; moves to 0 during print, then resumes" Tags="|pla|extruder|heated-bed|ultimaker-cura|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5067" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-12-02T21:47:27.300" Score="2" ViewCount="130" Body="&lt;p&gt;I ordered a 0.5 KG spool of Makerflex Glow in the Dark filament from Makergeeks. I ordered Clear and Opaque PLA with it. The Makerflex plastic is called TPEE. The entire spool of it seems to have small bubbles in it. I even confirmed this by cutting one of the bubbles, and I could fit a small piece of metal inside, so it is not just a funky coloring. Does anyone know if this is normal? I can't get in touch with Makergeeks themselves. Will it damage my printer? I have a stock Tevo Tarantula.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9239" LastActivityDate="2019-09-18T19:49:54.570" Title="MakerFlex Spool has bubbles?" Tags="|filament|filament-quality|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5068" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5069" CreationDate="2017-12-02T21:52:21.840" Score="2" ViewCount="4621" Body="&lt;p&gt;I drew a fairly simple model in Google SketchUp. I exported it as an STL. I imported it into Cura and exported as gcode. Then I printed the model.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All of the bottom layers of the model cover the entire space instead of leaving the two open gaps that should exist. I don't know why it's happening. Do I have some weird setting in Cura? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The section that is filled, but shouldn't be, isn't a raft. I printed without a raft because my model goes to the max extent that my printer can print and I don't have room for a raft around the edges. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is what it looks like in SketchUp:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EumMr.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EumMr.png&quot; alt=&quot;SketchUp model&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is what it looks like in Cura. The two empty areas are shaded darker than the other empty areas of the build plate. Is that an indication of my problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GGgFE.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GGgFE.png&quot; alt=&quot;Cura Build Plate&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is what was printed. The empty areas are solid and filled in as if the center piece extended to the inner edges of that area. (The jacked up corners are due to the model warping a bit and no longer being in the right position for subsequent layers.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4nQbY.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4nQbY.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a video of the layers according to Cura, and Cura clearly knows the gaps should be there:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/r0a9gGFerHI&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://youtu.be/r0a9gGFerHI&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5446" LastEditorUserId="5446" LastEditDate="2017-12-02T22:01:00.543" LastActivityDate="2017-12-03T02:24:36.410" Title="Empty space in model is getting filled" Tags="|3d-models|ultimaker-cura|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5069" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5068" CreationDate="2017-12-03T00:26:51.900" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I suspect, as I am wont to do, that your problem lies in the STL created by SketchUp. It's an unfortunate aspect of that program that it creates non-manifold models which creates troubles such as this. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Consider to load your STL file into a program suitable for showing flaws (and repairing them) to determine where the failure points lie. I'm fond of Meshmixer, but there are many others such as Netfabb with which I am less familiar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't want to check your STL file, attach it to your post and I'll take a shot at it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You would also want to consider to learn a new program if you intend to perform such 3D modeling. Fusion 360 has a popular following. I'm a fan of OpenScad, but use Fusion 360, Meshmixer, Blender (only a tiny amount) and anything else I can utilize for model repair, creation and editing. Build a large repetoire of different programs and get the best of all worlds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;SketchUp has a strong following primarily because it's rather easy to use. The same can be said of a few other programs, but SketchUp really generates trouble when it comes to 3D models.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;TinkerCAD is very much like SketchUp and will give you better final results. OnShape is another popular modeling program, but I have zero exposure to that one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's not out of the question that there's a bug in Cura that's causing this problem. You are not limited to one slicer program, and you can check the results of another slicer such as Slic3r, Craftware or others.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastActivityDate="2017-12-03T00:26:51.900" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5070" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4692" CreationDate="2017-12-03T02:17:57.023" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your Z axis movement is somehow wrong. You should check steps/mm, z acceleration and speed. Try moving your z 10cm up and use caliper to check if it is correct.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9240" LastActivityDate="2017-12-03T02:17:57.023" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5071" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5068" CreationDate="2017-12-03T02:24:36.410" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You have a problem with your STL file. Check the orientation of the faces of your 3D model, if that is not the problem, search for a software to fix your stl file. Just a tip, give Fusion360 a try, it is the best!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9240" LastActivityDate="2017-12-03T02:24:36.410" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5072" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5048" CreationDate="2017-12-03T14:21:40.147" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your ABS filament is likely to be different than the ABS the paper is talking about, at the minimum the filament has added coloring (ABS is not naturally white), its possible it has other additives to make it easier to extrude and - especially for low cost ABS - it's also possible it has other random contaminant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &quot;same&quot; material from different manufacturers is often very obviously different (for low cost filament, different batches from the same manufacturer are sometimes different) so, even if someone here did have experience with cooking ABS for a year, you can never be sure your ABS will work the same as their ABS.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the information is not in the material data sheet you can try to contact the manufacturer, other then that, you really have no way of knowing other then trying for yourself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="170" LastActivityDate="2017-12-03T14:21:40.147" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5074" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5066" CreationDate="2017-12-04T10:25:27.323" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I see two problems in your video:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It looks like the first layer is built too much upwards. (The level calibration should be so that a Z-height of 0 can barely fit a sheet of paper under the nozzle. )&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your printer is not extruding at all. As you said, the extrusion has some problems. Extrusion problems will cause adhesion problems too. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4708" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-08-10T11:34:48.423" LastActivityDate="2018-08-10T11:34:48.423" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5077" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-12-04T16:33:57.767" Score="2" ViewCount="358" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I've been fighting with this all weekend, figured I'd see if others have suggestions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I attempt to print, my printer will go just fine until about the halfway point on a layer, then there'll be a section (almost the same point on the layer for the cube or a couple of other smaller prints I tried) that doesn't extrude. Once the next layer starts, it'll be fine until about halfway again. I kicked off a quick cube print to take pictures of layer 1:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vR2xf.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vR2xf.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;first layer&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The second layer will do something similar about halfway but covers the section that had an issue in the first layer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/w2V8F.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/w2V8F.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;second layer&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've tried cleaning and rebalancing the plate multiple times, just picked up a new plate to try (will be here in two days), have completely swapped the tube and nozzle on the hot end, and have played with the temperature. The layers look great for that first half at 195 °C with a 70 °C bed. Extruder stepper motor works when set from the prepare option screen. The nozzle is 2 mm and have it set properly in slic3r (using the Repertoire 3D printing program). Does anyone have any other suggestions for getting this to work properly?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9263" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-02-24T22:41:24.857" LastActivityDate="2021-02-24T22:41:24.857" Title="Prusa i3 Mk2 (RepRapGuru kit) stops extruding mid-layer" Tags="|extruder|reprap|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5078" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-12-05T09:46:31.103" Score="6" ViewCount="593" Body="&lt;p&gt;I work on communication devices for people with disabilities that prevent them from speaking.  This can be anything from a board with symbols on, to a relatively sophisticated app.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some potential users also have sight issues and have to distinguish symbols by feel (these particular users have cognitive disabilities and so braile isn't useful) .  Currently the solution is to, by hand, stick items onto the buttons. Like this: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cFS0d.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cFS0d.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is effective, but takes a very long time.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There exists open symbol libraries &lt;a href=&quot;http://straight-street.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;like this&lt;/a&gt;, that include nice svg images like &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.dropbox.com/s/e5emeku99xxmeub/traffic%20lights.svg?dl=0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this one&lt;/a&gt; (not uploaded, because SO doesn't like svg, but here's the screenshot: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/746CY.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/746CY.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A friend converted some of these images into 3d prints like so: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Cv41n.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Cv41n.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This was amazing, and useful, but I understand quite time-intensive for him - and there are thousands of these symbols.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's what I want to know: given that SVG is a relatively simple structure and the symbols are very simple, what are the steps for writing the script that says: &quot;Take the svg, map it to a plane, raise everything that is black by 2mm, everything that is gray by 1mm and add height for the rest of the colours according to this table&quot; ? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bonus points for something that I can reasonably get going on a set of 10000 svg files and come back to later...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9273" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2018-11-05T12:56:05.573" LastActivityDate="2018-11-05T12:56:05.573" Title="SVG to STL conversion to make symbols recognisable for visually impaired users" Tags="|3d-design|stl|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5079" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5078" CreationDate="2017-12-05T10:45:41.053" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you install inkscape, pstoedit and ghostscript version 9.21 (not the latest as pstoedit is incompatible)   you can get the file into a format that openscad can &#xA;import using two commands in a cmd file &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;&quot;C:\Program Files\Inkscape\inkscape&quot; -E &quot;traffic lights.eps&quot; &quot;traffic lights.svg&quot;&#xA;&quot;C:\Program Files\pstoedit\pstoedit&quot; -dt -f dxf:-polyaslines &quot;traffic lights.eps&quot; &quot;traffic lights.dxf&quot;&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;then in openscad&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;linear_extrude(3) import (&quot;traffic lights.dxf&quot;);&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;will import gives me &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3BM0c.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3BM0c.png&quot; alt=&quot;openscad&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With a thickness of 3mm - you can see the model needs some scaling but its seems possible although - I can't see an option to scale based on color - &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7595" LastEditorUserId="7595" LastEditDate="2017-12-10T09:14:42.423" LastActivityDate="2017-12-10T09:14:42.423" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5081" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3398" CreationDate="2017-12-05T13:34:30.363" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've had the same problem, nozzle was just too close to the bed and motor required a little bit mode power so I turned a little bit a pot on stepper controller.&#xA;Since then no problem, also is good to rise a bit a temperature ;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7152" LastActivityDate="2017-12-05T13:34:30.363" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5082" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5078" CreationDate="2017-12-05T23:23:28.390" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Nothing thats works via scripting BUT is really simple and easy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;register on tinkercad.com (I know register is a bummer but its a great tool)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;open a new design&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;import *.svg file&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;adjust height or size of the converted object&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;download .stl&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thats going to take a while for 1000 files but its so simple, printing the stuff will take forever, so you´ve got some time :P&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: Maybe edit the topic to something like &quot;SVG to STL conversion&quot; which would make the thread more likely to be found.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9285" LastActivityDate="2017-12-05T23:23:28.390" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5083" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5066" CreationDate="2017-12-06T20:42:54.477" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I switched to different firmware (the latest Marlin), now the problem has been resolved. So it seems to me that those random movements are not in fact normal, but a flaw in the firmware.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9237" LastEditorUserId="9237" LastEditDate="2020-10-29T14:02:44.897" LastActivityDate="2020-10-29T14:02:44.897" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5085" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5066" CreationDate="2017-12-06T21:44:52.000" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The main problem shown in the video is because you are printing an oversized part, the random movements to X and Y is due the exceeded lines. Also the nozzle has a wrong Z0 and the part won't get adhesion to the bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4454" LastActivityDate="2017-12-06T21:44:52.000" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5086" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-12-07T19:25:33.140" Score="5" ViewCount="368" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can Repetier host run a multi-material printer such as the Prusa i3 MK2S?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7019" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-07-08T20:50:33.837" LastActivityDate="2018-07-08T20:50:33.837" Title="Is Repetier host able to do multi-material printing?" Tags="|repetier-host|multi-material|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5087" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5089" CreationDate="2017-12-08T02:11:42.683" Score="3" ViewCount="1127" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have seen that the new Prusa Mk3 design has a optical mouse sensor that can be used to detect if the filament jams. Optical mouse sensors are just a really low resolution camera with no color.&#xA;I am interested in finding out if it is possible to get access to the image data coming from that sensor? &#xA;Could I add a rgb led and interpolate the filament color by comparing pixel intensity under different lighting conditions?&#xA;And I was interested in seeing if the image data could be used to measure the filament width?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1476" LastActivityDate="2023-11-06T17:45:58.540" Title="Prusa Mk3 filament detection sensor, can you access the image data?" Tags="|prusa-i3|firmware|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5089" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5087" CreationDate="2017-12-08T09:54:34.503" Score="3" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am interested in finding out if it is possible to get access to the image data coming from that sensor? And I was interested in seeing if the image data could be used to measure the filament width?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No. The sensor is the &lt;a href=&quot;https://web.archive.org/web/20180920104941/https://www.pixart.com/upload/PAT9125EL_GDS_V1.2_31052017_20171011150843.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;PAT9125EL&lt;/a&gt;. The only output it provides is the movement in the X and Y directions. There is no way to get image data out of it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could I add a rgb led and interpolate the filament color by comparing pixel intensity under different lighting conditions&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No. The sensor uses laser light of a specific wavelength. It's likely not sensitive to any other wavelengths. On a positive note, there is an &amp;quot;average frame brightness&amp;quot; register that can be read from the chip, but I don't think it's likely to work with RGB LEDs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastEditorUserId="36802" LastEditDate="2023-11-06T17:45:58.540" LastActivityDate="2023-11-06T17:45:58.540" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5090" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-12-08T21:27:30.200" Score="1" ViewCount="143" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm currently attempting to build the reprap Cherry 3D printer. I'm doing the Nema 17 upgrade for the printer. I realized that the instructions online are optimized for the 28byj-48 stepper motors. Has anyone built this machine with the Nema 17 upgrades and know what size screws would be best to use?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7019" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2020-01-13T13:49:39.000" LastActivityDate="2020-01-13T13:49:39.000" Title="Cherry 3D printer Nema upgrade" Tags="|reprap|nema-17|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5091" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5090" CreationDate="2017-12-09T07:24:10.763" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cherry 3D printer with Nema 17 = Small Prusa i3, so the screws are the same M3 with the length you need according your mounting upgrade.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4454" LastActivityDate="2017-12-09T07:24:10.763" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5093" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6704" CreationDate="2017-12-09T14:38:18.940" Score="4" ViewCount="217" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have just received my QIDITECH printer, I've have ABS, PLA and two reals of PETG.  I printed a sample using the clear PETG and this worked find, I didn't have to change any of the default settings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Today I've tried three times to print a simple model using the black real of PETG.  I've created which is essentially just a rectangle, but after a few minutes the extruder starts to drag around filament.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What can I do?  The filament is loaded ok, and it starts out ok, but very quickly messes up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1093" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-08-20T19:41:28.040" LastActivityDate="2018-08-20T19:41:28.040" Title="QIDITECH Dual Extruder and PETG" Tags="|filament|petg|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5094" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5095" CreationDate="2017-12-09T19:35:44.960" Score="1" ViewCount="192" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've printed the same model at least twice and both times it was impossible to separate from the base material it was printed on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm using a QIDITECH dual extruder, when I start the print it uses the right side extruder to print a base layer, which is not part of the original model, it seems MakerBot issues this instruction to the printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once the initial layer has been printed it then prints the model.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both extruders are loaded with PETG.  In the left side I am printed with a transparent material.  The model I am trying to print is a flat rectangle 2 mm thick.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem is that once it has completed printing I'm finding it impossible to separate from the initial layer it put down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do I solve this problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1093" LastActivityDate="2017-12-10T11:23:07.690" Title="Model stuck on base" Tags="|3d-models|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5095" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5094" CreationDate="2017-12-10T11:23:07.690" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &quot;base&quot; you are referring to is normally called a &quot;raft&quot;. It's not very common to print with a raft these days (it was originally used to help with bed adhesion, but the current-day standard is to use a heated bed if available in combination with some surface preparation (hair spray, PEI sheets, etc...) to aid adhesion); you might consider just disabling the raft.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively, you could consider (since you have a dual extruder) to print the raft in a different material that is more easily removed from the main material. There exist materials that are specifically formulated to break away easily from your print, and another option is to use a (water-)soluble material for the raft and any supports.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastActivityDate="2017-12-10T11:23:07.690" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5096" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4493" CreationDate="2017-12-10T14:19:17.880" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It looks like they have only one innovation: their resins. Everything else looks like standard SLA. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All the things Carbon 3D are pitching on their website are more about having a dedicated support team than some fancy printer, and that's what they're selling. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As to why they don't make a home version: why would they? It's &lt;em&gt;at best&lt;/em&gt; a distraction from their core business.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6479" LastActivityDate="2017-12-10T14:19:17.880" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5097" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-12-10T15:04:39.263" Score="7" ViewCount="4909" Body="&lt;p&gt;I accidentally let the print head of my Anet A8 crash into one of 2 clips that are holding a glass sheet onto the hot bed, and suddenly the screen went blank and the printer rebooted, then it started reading 739°C from the extruder thermistor. I tried changing the thermistor, but that didn't have any effect. Also tried swapping the extruder thermistor with the hot bed thermistor, but there was no effect on both. I checked both the connector and the socket of the thermistor for shorts but found none. Any ideas about the reason this is happening?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;-Using Skynet3D 2.3.2 on the stock Anet board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried burning the bootloader and flashing the firmware onto the Anet V1.0 board using an Arduino UNO as an ISP, but that had absolutely no effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT 2&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I measured &lt;code&gt;R41&lt;/code&gt; located next to the hotend thermistor header&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5XscH.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5XscH.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;R41 location&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;and found out it has a resistance of 1.5kΩ, while it should have a resistance of 4.7kΩ, so I suspect this is the main reason behind this high reading. Now the only thing left to figure out is how the resistance of this resistor changed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was able to figure out which resistor to measure with the help of this schematic: &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/ralf-e/ANET-3D-Board-V1.0/blob/master/ANET3D_Board_Schematic.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://github.com/ralf-e/ANET-3D-Board-V1.0/blob/master/ANET3D_Board_Schematic.png&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT 3&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;I tested &lt;code&gt;T56&lt;/code&gt; (located near the headers) and &lt;code&gt;T55&lt;/code&gt; (located near the ATMEGA1284P) for continuity, and found out there's no connection between those, while they should be connected according to the schematics. I also checked the hotbed's terminals &lt;code&gt;T54&lt;/code&gt; and &lt;code&gt;T53&lt;/code&gt; and found continuity between them, which  means the problem might be in the trace between the thermistor header and input pin of the ATMEGA chip (this trace is VERY thin, so any overcurrent might cut it), or any component in this trace.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7362" LastEditorUserId="7362" LastEditDate="2018-02-06T13:16:40.193" LastActivityDate="2018-11-20T11:56:02.123" Title="Anet A8 reading 739°C from the extruder thermistor!" Tags="|extruder|hotend|thermistor|anet-a8|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="16" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5098" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4911" CreationDate="2017-12-10T19:20:50.187" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If your concern is that the stl file may have walls that are too thin to print on your printer, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.meshmixer.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;MeshMixer&lt;/a&gt; is a great tool from &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.autodesk.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Autodesk&lt;/a&gt; to help check and fix mesh issues (including wall thickness).  It is free to Makers and Educators.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are lots of helpful tutorials&#xA;Here is one &lt;a href=&quot;https://all3dp.com/meshmixer-tutorial/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://all3dp.com/meshmixer-tutorial/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6417" LastActivityDate="2017-12-10T19:20:50.187" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5099" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5137" CreationDate="2017-12-10T20:44:48.570" Score="1" ViewCount="299" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have created a design with fusion 360. I tried to print it with my M3D Pro printer but it seems the designs have a flaw. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I try to print the bottom part, the second layer is wrong. It seems to have moved to the left by a few centimeters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is the link to the &lt;code&gt;.stl&lt;/code&gt; files and pictures of how the first few layers turned out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://seafile.fmk.me/d/09e43aa7fc8e416ab187/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://seafile.fmk.me/d/09e43aa7fc8e416ab187/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uOtTN.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uOtTN.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;broken print&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IrAGq.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IrAGq.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;broken print 2&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KYEfD.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KYEfD.png&quot; alt=&quot;bottom.stl&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vtCyf.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vtCyf.png&quot; alt=&quot;top.stl&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;code&gt;bottom.stl&lt;/code&gt; file can be loaded and viewed in the m3d software but leads to faulty print after the first layer. The &lt;code&gt;top.stl&lt;/code&gt; cannot even be viewed in the M3D software.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other 3D files from thingiverse etc. can be printed without a problem.&#xA;Do I need to enable any special features to be able to print those files correctly?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yours, Felix&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9327" LastEditorUserId="9367" LastEditDate="2017-12-18T07:58:27.657" LastActivityDate="2017-12-18T07:58:27.657" Title="Fusion 360 M3D Slicer" Tags="|3d-models|3d-design|software|slicing|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5100" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5099" CreationDate="2017-12-11T03:20:34.643" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;FMK, I loaded the two STL files, top.stl and bottom.stl into Meshmixer. Using Analysis, Inspector, no errors were found in the models. I then loaded the STL files into my slicer, Simplify3D. Due to common Y/Z exchange, the models were loaded in a vertical orientation. It was simple enough to use &quot;Place surface on bed&quot; to get things &quot;squared up.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The g-code preview showed also no failure points.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My first suggestion would be to ensure that you have your model flat to the bed. I've run into too many Thingiverse models that the creator made with a non-zero planar reference, that is, the model was tilted a few degrees.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You say that you created the model in Fusion 360, which would imply that your model is square to the plane.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not familiar with M3D software, but if you have the option to use a different slicer, use Slic3r or Cura to see if you have the same results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As it stands, I'd consider no fault in the model files.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastActivityDate="2017-12-11T03:20:34.643" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5103" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5709" CreationDate="2017-12-11T16:15:24.397" Score="6" ViewCount="1478" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am building a 3d Printer here:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Build Volume: X:300mm, Y:300mm, Z:400mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mechanism: 1 motor, 2 leadscrew, 4 rod Z-axis; CoreXY head movement&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Belt: GT2 6mm Steel Core&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pulley &amp;amp; Idler: 20T 6mm, Bore 5mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Extruder: E3D Titan, Pancake NEMA 17&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hotend: E3D V6&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Motors: XYZ: 0.9deg NEMA 17 34mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Electronics: Mega2560 + RAMPS 1.4, TMC2100, Opto-endstops min &amp;amp; max&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Electrical: SSR, Silicone Heat-mat 600W 300x300mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bed: 3-point aluminium&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Problem is, I can't get V-slots or T-slots easily where I live.&#xA;I can get Steel Rods or Seamless pipes, and Bearings &amp;amp; Drylin bushings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What aluminium profiles can I use to construct a rigid frame and accurate movement?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9334" LastActivityDate="2018-03-27T20:53:47.550" Title="What else can I use for a 3D Printer frame?" Tags="|diy-3d-printer|printer-building|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5105" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4923" CreationDate="2017-12-11T23:18:02.273" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is no tool to create a parabola in a sketch in Onshape but you could use a 3 or 5 point spline to create a similar curve. If you knew exactly the curve you wanted you could create it with another cylinder but let's skip that for now and use a spline.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you have the curve, add a line to close it until the geometry is shaded in light gray. I would try using the project command to select the smaller circular edge of your part.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now draw another line perpendicular to the first line, from the midpoint of the first line up to the curve. If you used a spline you can now use this second line to make the points of your spline symmetrical across that line so you can control your parabola-like curve. Once you're happy w/ your curve, select the split/trim command and delete the half of the curve and half of the first line until you have half the shape you want to cut out. Now complete the sketch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now use the revolve tool, select the sketch, select the second line you drew as the axis, and make sure that &quot;remove&quot; is selected and that the original body is selected for merging.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This will create the desired effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9339" LastActivityDate="2017-12-11T23:18:02.273" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5106" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4911" CreationDate="2017-12-12T06:41:35.747" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not completely sure what you want to do but I will add some information that I think will help and then hopefully you can figure out what you need to know or ask another question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you are asking about wall thickness there are two different things you could be referring to. A wall in the model, so you could be talking about trying to print a thin wall coming out of the model. For analysis thin wall setting some slicers will change the extrusion amount to print thicker or thinner lines, and to find those settings you would need to look at the g-code.&#xA;Or you could be talking about the shell of the model, the outside surface, and for this you could also analysis in the slicer settings by looking at the number of perimeters the slicer will try and print. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For calculating the cost of the print you will want the amount of material used, this will also be in the g-code file. You can eather calculate this by going through each G1 command and finding out how much filament was extruded for each move the printer made. (Not some slicers reset this to zero after each layer and this gets tricky when the printer starts retracting the filament while traveling).&#xA;Or most slicers have a commented out line of g-code at the beginning or end of the file listing how much filament will be used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do analysis the .stl file you also might find that you need to repair the model file as well, Because alot of .stl files are made for 3D graphics and not for printing and so they can have intersecting triangles and not be water tight. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not all .stl files are the same they can be text or binary files, this is some c# code that will read both formats into a list of the triangles in the file for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;using System.Numerics.Vectors; &#xA;void Main(){&#xA;var facets = readStl(@&quot;C:\stls\teapot.stl&quot;);}&#xA;&#xA;public class facet&#xA;{&#xA;    public Vector3 norm = new Vector3();&#xA;    public Vector3 vecA = new Vector3();&#xA;    public Vector3 vecB = new Vector3();&#xA;    public Vector3 vecC = new Vector3();&#xA;    public facet(Vector3 A, Vector3 B, Vector3 C, Vector3 N)&#xA;    {&#xA;        norm = N;&#xA;        vecA = A;&#xA;        vecB = B;&#xA;        vecC = C;&#xA;    }&#xA;}/* facet */&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;public static System.Collections.Generic.List&amp;lt;facet&amp;gt; readStl(string file)&#xA;{&#xA;    // check if binary or text fomat&#xA;    //Console.WriteLine(&quot;the middle&quot;);&#xA;    bool isText;&#xA;    System.Collections.Generic.List&amp;lt;facet&amp;gt; facets = new System.Collections.Generic.List&amp;lt;facet&amp;gt;();&#xA;    using (System.IO.BinaryReader reader = new System.IO.BinaryReader(System.IO.File.Open(file, System.IO.FileMode.Open)))&#xA;    {&#xA;        //Console.WriteLine(&quot;Checking if binary&quot;);&#xA;        string fileHeading;&#xA;        fileHeading = new string(reader.ReadChars(80));&#xA;        if (fileHeading.Contains(@&quot;solid&quot;))&#xA;        {&#xA;            isText = true;&#xA;            //Console.WriteLine(&quot;isText true&quot;);&#xA;        }&#xA;        else&#xA;        {&#xA;            isText = false;&#xA;            //Console.WriteLine(&quot;isText false&quot;);&#xA;        }&#xA;        if(!isText)&#xA;        {&#xA;            // process binary file&#xA;            Console.WriteLine(&quot;Is binary&quot;);&#xA;            uint numberOfTriangles = reader.ReadUInt32();&#xA;            //Debug.Log(&quot;Number of Triangles: &quot; + numberOfTriangles.ToString());&#xA;            System.Console.WriteLine(&quot;Number of Triangles: &quot; + numberOfTriangles.ToString());&#xA;            for(int i = 0; i &amp;lt; numberOfTriangles - 1; i++)&#xA;            {&#xA;                Vector3 normals = new Vector3();&#xA;                Vector3 vecA = new Vector3();&#xA;                Vector3 vecB = new Vector3();&#xA;                Vector3 vecC = new Vector3();&#xA;                System.UInt16 byteCount = new System.UInt16();&#xA;                normals.X = reader.ReadSingle();&#xA;                normals.Y = reader.ReadSingle();&#xA;                normals.Z = reader.ReadSingle();&#xA;                vecA.X = reader.ReadSingle();&#xA;                vecA.Y = reader.ReadSingle();&#xA;                vecA.Z = reader.ReadSingle();&#xA;                vecB.X = reader.ReadSingle();&#xA;                vecB.Y = reader.ReadSingle();&#xA;                vecB.Z = reader.ReadSingle();&#xA;                vecC.X = reader.ReadSingle();&#xA;                vecC.Y = reader.ReadSingle();&#xA;                vecC.Z = reader.ReadSingle();&#xA;                byteCount = reader.ReadUInt16();&#xA;                facets.Add(new facet(vecA, vecB, vecC, normals));&#xA;            }&#xA;        }&#xA;    }&#xA;    if (isText)&#xA;    {&#xA;        // read text format file&#xA;        Console.WriteLine(&quot;Is text file&quot;);&#xA;        //Console.WriteLine(&quot;reading text file&quot;);&#xA;        using (System.IO.StreamReader reader = System.IO.File.OpenText(file))&#xA;        {&#xA;            string line = @&quot;&quot;;&#xA;            string fileHeader = @&quot;&quot;;&#xA;            line = reader.ReadLine();&#xA;            fileHeader = line.Substring(line.IndexOf(&quot;solid&quot;) + 5).Trim();&#xA;            line = &quot;&quot;;&#xA;            System.Console.WriteLine(@&quot;file header: &quot; + fileHeader);&#xA;            bool endOfFile = true;&#xA;            while (endOfFile)&#xA;            {&#xA;                line = reader.ReadLine();&#xA;                if (!reader.EndOfStream)&#xA;                {&#xA;                    Vector3 normals = new Vector3();&#xA;                    Vector3 vecA = new Vector3();&#xA;                    Vector3 vecB = new Vector3();&#xA;                    Vector3 vecC = new Vector3();&#xA;                    string[] nums = line.Replace(&quot;facet&quot;, &quot;&quot;).Replace(&quot;normal&quot;, &quot;&quot;).Trim().Split(' ');&#xA;                    normals.X = (float)System.Double.Parse(nums[0], System.Globalization.NumberStyles.Float);&#xA;                    normals.Y = (float)System.Double.Parse(nums[1], System.Globalization.NumberStyles.Float);&#xA;                    normals.Z = (float)System.Double.Parse(nums[2], System.Globalization.NumberStyles.Float);&#xA;                    line = &quot;&quot;;&#xA;                    line = reader.ReadLine(); // outer loop&#xA;                    line = reader.ReadLine(); // vertex &#xA;                    string[] vecsA = line.Replace(&quot;vertex&quot;, &quot;&quot;).Trim().Split(' ');&#xA;                    vecA.X = (float)System.Double.Parse(vecsA[0], System.Globalization.NumberStyles.Float);&#xA;                    vecA.Y = (float)System.Double.Parse(vecsA[1], System.Globalization.NumberStyles.Float);&#xA;                    vecA.Z = (float)System.Double.Parse(vecsA[2], System.Globalization.NumberStyles.Float);&#xA;                    line = &quot;&quot;;&#xA;                    line = reader.ReadLine(); // vertex &#xA;                    string[] vecsB = line.Replace(&quot;vertex&quot;, &quot;&quot;).Trim().Split(' ');&#xA;                    vecB.X = (float)System.Double.Parse(vecsB[0], System.Globalization.NumberStyles.Float);&#xA;                    vecB.Y = (float)System.Double.Parse(vecsB[1], System.Globalization.NumberStyles.Float);&#xA;                    vecB.Z = (float)System.Double.Parse(vecsB[2], System.Globalization.NumberStyles.Float);&#xA;                    line = &quot;&quot;;&#xA;                    line = reader.ReadLine(); // vertex &#xA;                    string[] vecsC = line.Replace(&quot;vertex&quot;, &quot;&quot;).Trim().Split(' ');&#xA;                    vecC.X = (float)System.Double.Parse(vecsC[0], System.Globalization.NumberStyles.Float);&#xA;                    vecC.Y = (float)System.Double.Parse(vecsC[1], System.Globalization.NumberStyles.Float);&#xA;                    vecC.Z = (float)System.Double.Parse(vecsC[2], System.Globalization.NumberStyles.Float);&#xA;                    line = &quot;&quot;;&#xA;                    line = reader.ReadLine(); // endloop&#xA;                    line = reader.ReadLine(); // endfacet&#xA;                    facets.Add(new facet(vecA, vecB, vecC, normals));&#xA;                }&#xA;                else&#xA;                {&#xA;                    endOfFile = false;&#xA;                }&#xA;            }// while loop&#xA;            System.Console.WriteLine(&quot;finished reading file&quot;);&#xA;        }&#xA;    }&#xA;    return facets;&#xA;}/* readStl */&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1476" LastActivityDate="2017-12-12T06:41:35.747" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5109" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4144" CreationDate="2017-12-12T12:56:40.113" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had a clogged filament. I heated up to 240 C, and pushed a wire up through the nozzle. It took some effort, and much patience is expected. I left the wire inside, as  it helped soften the PLA. Then I pushed the filament by hand from top. After some efforts, the needle moved, indicating the movement of the PLA clog. Once the PLA starts pushing the clogged area, some material comes out the nozzle. Keep pushing and after some hours of effort all is flowing fine! The idea was to transport heat to the clogged PLA by using the needle (from the nozzle end). But it certainly requires patience!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9348" LastActivityDate="2017-12-12T12:56:40.113" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5110" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5249" CreationDate="2017-12-12T16:40:41.067" Score="4" ViewCount="3046" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to print worm gears for my robot arm. I would like to design it in FreeCAD. Normally, I would use &lt;em&gt;involute gear&lt;/em&gt; for regular gears. However, this tool cannot be used for worm gears. I can't find any add-ons for this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it possible to produce a worm gear automatically? If not, how can I make it manually?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user9350" LastEditorUserId="9134" LastEditDate="2018-01-14T14:54:57.940" LastActivityDate="2018-01-14T14:54:57.940" Title="How to design a worm-gear in FreeCAD?" Tags="|3d-models|cad|freecad|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5111" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4959" CreationDate="2017-12-12T17:11:10.820" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had the same problem with ABS. I tried first painters tape and it was a very bad. Double-sided adhesive tape was good at the beginning but there was wrapping after several layers. The best solution was a mixture of acetone and ABS. I applied it onto the surface of the heated bed and there was no wrapping.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user9350" LastActivityDate="2017-12-12T17:11:10.820" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5112" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4144" CreationDate="2017-12-13T00:06:45.707" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It looks like your nozzle is jammed, since the filament is being chewed. You can fix this by heating the extruder up to around 220 C ( or just about 15 degrees above the recommended printing temp for your filament), then attempting to push some filament through the extruder. If this doesn't work, use a small wire and push it through the nozzle a few times, then run some filament through it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7019" LastActivityDate="2017-12-13T00:06:45.707" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5113" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4923" CreationDate="2017-12-13T00:56:57.397" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Create a midplane going through it, and then sketch half if a profile for what you want yo carve out on it that plane, and in the spot where you need it to carve out. Now revolve that profile around it's Central axis and this should cut wlthe piece you want out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7019" LastActivityDate="2017-12-13T00:56:57.397" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5115" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5086" CreationDate="2017-12-13T12:25:59.570" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, you can add a second extruder to it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2103" LastActivityDate="2017-12-13T12:25:59.570" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5116" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-12-13T14:52:45.907" Score="2" ViewCount="716" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've heard alot about simplify 3D recently. It sounds like it's a great software, but 150 dollars!? The only thing that seems too different from other slicers is the placable supports, but Z suite has that now as well. Cura must be coming out with placable supports soon if they're going to stay in the game. It does also have dual extrusion, but so does just about every other free slicer out there. I just don't understand what makes it worth 150 US dollars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7019" LastEditorUserId="4927" LastEditDate="2018-09-04T08:20:44.897" LastActivityDate="2018-09-04T08:20:44.897" Title="Is Simplify 3D really worth it?" Tags="|simplify3d|support-structures|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="0" ClosedDate="2017-12-26T18:35:59.303" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5117" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-12-13T18:32:53.267" Score="-1" ViewCount="141" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found this low temperature filament for 3d printing, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.sainsmart.com/products/low-temperature-filament-0-5kg-1-75mm-white&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Low Temperature Filament 0.5kg 1.75mm, White&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Correct me if I'm wrong but I'm pretty sure I can use it for a &lt;em&gt;really&lt;/em&gt; precise nozzle because it's so runny at normal printing temperature, the thing is, you obviously can't get nozzles at the size I'm taking about, so with that said, who could I hire to make one?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9365" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2018-07-23T11:33:47.123" LastActivityDate="2018-07-23T11:33:47.123" Title="I found a filament that can be used for really precise FDM printing, Who could I hire to create a custom nozzle for it" Tags="|print-material|nozzle|pcl|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ClosedDate="2018-01-08T09:05:09.030" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5119" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5123" CreationDate="2017-12-13T22:10:49.067" Score="3" ViewCount="1775" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm considering getting a prusa i3 after my da vinci jr. fiasco, with that said, how easily can I remove/replace the nozzle in order to clean it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8877" LastActivityDate="2017-12-14T12:52:37.887" Title="How easily can I remove/replace the nozzle of the prusa i3?" Tags="|prusa-i3|nozzle|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5121" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5116" CreationDate="2017-12-14T08:53:47.133" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The free slicers are catching up with Simplify3D, and are even overtaking it in some areas, so purchasing it may not make much sense to hobbyists. However, for professional print shops, where printers may cost twenty times as much (or even more), 150 dollars is nothing (especially since it is 150 dollars per PC, not 150 dollars per printer).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3953" LastEditorUserId="3953" LastEditDate="2017-12-14T12:23:17.527" LastActivityDate="2017-12-14T12:23:17.527" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5123" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5119" CreationDate="2017-12-14T12:52:37.887" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Assuming you have a typical setup:  nozzle threaded into heater block, use a socket wrench on the nozzle and any wrench or vise-grip on the block, and unscrew the nozzle.  Now, if your system is fully clogged, you may want to heat the head to melt all the residual gunk (which otherwise will strongly resist your unscrewing force).  Obviously take care not to burn yourself if removing the nozzle while hot.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively,  don't bother removing the nozzle.  Raise the extruder as high (Z-axis) as you can, heat, and use a properly-sized stiff wire to ream out the nozzle.  You can use the back end of a microdrill bit.  Hot or cold, you can use the drill itself to ream, but be very cautious as you may widen the nozzle itself doing this.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I should add that you may well have gunk in the feeder tube, and that's considerably wider diameter. Remove the nozzle and gently drill out the feeder with a matching drill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2191" LastActivityDate="2017-12-14T12:52:37.887" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5128" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5129" CreationDate="2017-12-15T12:41:20.943" Score="2" ViewCount="89" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm using PETG, the thickness of the filament is 1.75mm, in MakerBot there is a setting for &quot;Layer Height&quot;, the default is 0.1mm, I've had lots of messed up prints with this material and I'm thinking it could be this setting that needs adjustment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What layer thickness should be used?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Found this:  &lt;a href=&quot;http://forum.makergear.com/viewtopic.php?f=11&amp;amp;t=2593&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://forum.makergear.com/viewtopic.php?f=11&amp;amp;t=2593&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1093" LastEditorUserId="1093" LastEditDate="2017-12-15T12:53:55.100" LastActivityDate="2017-12-15T13:57:33.553" Title="Makerbot layer thickness" Tags="|replicating-printers|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5129" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5128" CreationDate="2017-12-15T13:57:33.553" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Unlike PLA, PETG does not like to be &quot;squidged&quot; down, it likes to be &lt;em&gt;laid&lt;/em&gt; down. If you use too small a layer height, there is the danger of the filament sticking to the nozzle, rather than the bed (or filament already laid down). Try using a larger layer height -- between 0.2mm and 0.3mm, if you have a 0.4mm nozzle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3953" LastActivityDate="2017-12-15T13:57:33.553" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5131" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5319" CreationDate="2017-12-15T20:50:23.290" Score="2" ViewCount="170" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm very new to 3D printing and I've had numerous failed prints. Sometimes, the print is good but while trying to get it off the base I end up bending or breaking the print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is: How to I print and make it easier to release from the plate?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm printing with PETG, PLA and ABS. At the moment, it's PETG that is giving me trouble.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My printer is a QIDITECH Dual Extruder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://all3dp.com/1/remove-3d-print-from-bed-stuck-glass/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://all3dp.com/1/remove-3d-print-from-bed-stuck-glass/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V6fudqMEGyI&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V6fudqMEGyI&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I haven't tried any of the proposed solutions yet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1093" LastEditorUserId="4927" LastEditDate="2018-09-04T14:32:07.660" LastActivityDate="2018-09-06T01:53:57.117" Title="Tips for printing and being able to get of base easily" Tags="|post-processing|replicating-printers|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5132" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-12-15T22:08:48.253" Score="2" ViewCount="118" Body="&lt;p&gt;I purchased a Z Corp Printer more than 10 years ago and wonder what I can do with it now.  Everything has gone to the Extrude method rather than the additive method.  Am I the proud owner of a fancy boat anchor.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eRsFi.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eRsFi.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9403" LastActivityDate="2018-03-08T20:03:37.010" Title="Powder 3D Printer" Tags="|diy-3d-printer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5133" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5132" CreationDate="2017-12-15T22:41:28.183" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A quick search of the interweb shows that 3D Systems purchased ZCorp many years ago. A short review of the printer prior to the purchase also shows that the printer had, as one of the many negative points, a problem with sourcing printing supplies, as it is considered proprietary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additional searching brought up articles suggesting that one could create the media using common materials or by mixing other common materials, but the article I found did not expound beyond referencing gypsum powder and a couple other &quot;normal&quot; items.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have working software and perform a search for the specific model number combined with the words &quot;printing supplies,&quot; you may find additional insight into creating your own media. One article suggested that you could print with sugar, a rather novel concept.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The killer with devices of this type is the proprietary handle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This appears to be the sort of device that appears on Craigslist or abandoned in an estate sale. If you were local to me, I'd make an offer for the value of the internal components, although I'd also take a shot at printing with sugar or similar granular material. The idea of a laundry detergent Benchy comes to mind.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastActivityDate="2017-12-15T22:41:28.183" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5136" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5116" CreationDate="2017-12-16T09:00:44.420" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well, simplify 3D has more than only placeable supports and I'm very happy with it. I Made my 3D printers and I had headaches with free slicers due I had to review the final result on pronterface, of course this programs was unable to run perfectly on P4 PC's with XP. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I started to change for other programs I recurr to use Cura, getting a nice prints but I had problems with Z offsets and a lot of burrs or &quot;spider threads&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then I could get simplify 3D, since the first printing I never changed again to other slicers and even Cura. I have set multiple setting for diferent filament types according their better flow temperature and printer type since I use the same program in one PC for 3 printers and planing to get 2 aditional printers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Printers are almost free, software not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4454" LastActivityDate="2017-12-16T09:00:44.420" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5137" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5099" CreationDate="2017-12-16T13:19:54.813" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Apparently my x belt and/or my x motor is broken. Getting replacement parts fixing the problem!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9327" LastActivityDate="2017-12-16T13:19:54.813" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5138" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-12-16T15:41:51.290" Score="7" ViewCount="394" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are 3D printed gears applicable for industrial use? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to print some gears with ABS. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What will their lifespan be? How long will they last if I use them, for example, every day? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user9350" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-08-08T00:10:26.543" LastActivityDate="2018-08-08T00:10:26.543" Title="Are 3D printed gears applicable for industrial use?" Tags="|3d-design|abs|quality|mechanics|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5139" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5141" CreationDate="2017-12-17T09:01:34.023" Score="3" ViewCount="322" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am writing my own slicer and wonder if there is a mathematical proof that proves that the intersection of the slicing plane with the STL file will only produce closed-loop polygons for every given slicing plane?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1414" LastActivityDate="2017-12-19T23:14:23.823" Title="Proof that Slicing Plane/STL intersection will only produce Closed-Loop Polygons?" Tags="|software|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5140" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-12-17T09:28:33.640" Score="4" ViewCount="362" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there a way to use KISSlicer from the Linux command line?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or convert KISSlicer settings/profile to Slic3r/CuraEngine?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8762" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-07-04T19:58:01.053" LastActivityDate="2018-09-03T15:02:31.557" Title="Using KISSlicer from command line on Linux?" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|slicing|g-code|slic3r|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5141" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5139" CreationDate="2017-12-17T11:43:43.570" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can't prove that because it isn't true. An STL file is just a collection of triangles. There is no guarantee that an intersection with the slicing plane will consist of closed-loop polygons. To be suitable for 3D printing an STL file should represent one or more closed, disjoint polyhedra (which would yield closed-loop polygons) but this is not always the case. Many slicers have heuristics to try and &quot;fix&quot; bad STL files on a best-effort basis. Especially considering the possibility of rounding errors, it is important to at least detect polygons that are almost (but not quite) closed and connect their endpoints together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastActivityDate="2017-12-17T11:43:43.570" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5142" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="931" CreationDate="2017-12-17T21:31:36.710" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;I agree that steel is the best material for rails but the info provided on carbon fiber is just wrong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When making a carbon fiber part, whether a tube or any other shape, you lay the fabric in the orientation you need for the direction of the forces. If multi-directional strength and stiffness is needed then the fibers are laid in multiple directions. Nobody who knows what they are doing lays all the cf in one direction...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In general, carbon fiber is stronger than steel by both the strength to weight ratio and by volume. I say &quot;in general&quot; because parts need to be designed in the right way. A poorly designed carbon fiber part or a low quality steel can easily be weak. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a great video on YouTube showing a strength and stiffness comparison of a carbon fiber drive shaft vs the same part made in steel. The steel drive shaft bent and snapped with 3 times less force while the cf drive shaft had no visible bending until it snapped.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main reason why steel is a better linear rail material is surface hardness. Linear rails have bearings traveling up and down continuously. The rails need to be hardened to prevent them wearing out too quickly. The surface hardness (how easy it is to scratch or penetrate) of cf is far lower than steel. There is no comparison.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cf is great material for the frame but not the rails. For stiffer rails, I suggest buying some square THK rails. 15mm the rails will be plenty stiff enough for most 3d printers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9419" LastActivityDate="2017-12-17T21:31:36.710" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5143" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5139" CreationDate="2017-12-18T04:08:57.500" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am also trying to write my own slicer and so I would just like to offer some additional information. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What you will find is that .stl files just store triangles and don't validate that the triangles assemble to create a printable model so a lot if not most .stl files are going to have data that isn't exactly what you want it to be. So you will want to have additional steps before you get to slicing, to fix up the data you get from the stl file. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A lot of stl models are designed for 3d graphics where intersecting other triangles and not being manifold isn't an issue. So you will probably want to write some code to test your models before trying to slice them. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example if you just sliced the layers of the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:821&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Utah Teapot&lt;/a&gt;&#xA; &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/d7qm0.gif&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/d7qm0.gif&quot; alt=&quot;Teapot&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt; and don't repair the model for 3D printing first you will get two different types of errors. The handle of the teapot does not actually attach to the teapot and is a separate model. And the spout of the teapot is a separate model that intersects the teapot. Both the handle and spout are also open at the ends and not water tight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1476" LastEditorUserId="1476" LastEditDate="2017-12-19T23:14:23.823" LastActivityDate="2017-12-19T23:14:23.823" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5144" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5131" CreationDate="2017-12-18T19:22:42.820" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would reccomend heating up the base a bit. If your printer doesnt come with such an option, try heat-gun.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9428" LastActivityDate="2017-12-18T19:22:42.820" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5145" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6591" CreationDate="2017-12-18T19:54:47.410" Score="8" ViewCount="7448" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am using Cura to slice my prints, and despite turning the flow rate to the minimum value of 5%, my prints are still hugely over-extruding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have calibrated the extruder stepper perfectly, using Pronterface, so I do not understand why this is occurring. I have also timed how long it took to extrude a certain length and compared it to the length of time it was meant to extrude and it was exactly the same. Therefore, I have concluded it is not a problem with the calibration of the stepper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, I think there is a problem with the settings on Cura. Originally, I had the flow rate at 100% and this was really, really terrible. Then I turned it down as far as possible and the print got better but there was still over-extrusion. I can't down it down any further.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can not figure out what the problem could possibly be and as you would imagine it is very, very frustrating.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is the print profile:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VUpdO.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VUpdO.png&quot; alt=&quot;Screenshot of Print Profile&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the printer is not of any model, as it is a homemade CD drive 3D printer. It shares many similarities with the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.instructables.com/id/Curiosity-120-eWaste-Educational-3D-Printer/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Curiosity3D printer&lt;/a&gt;, so if you want more information on how it works, then their website will be of much value.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The extruder is a Bowden-style one. It uses a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.amazon.co.uk/Finlon-Hotend-Extruder-Printer-Filament/dp/B0734MR3JR/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1513678249&amp;amp;sr=8-1&amp;amp;keywords=e3d%20hotend&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;cheap E3D hotend&lt;/a&gt; and a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.amazon.co.uk/Gaoxing-Tech-Printer-Extruder-Stepper-Bracket-Motor/dp/B06XSJ9M2T/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1?s=industrial&amp;amp;ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1513678339&amp;amp;sr=1-1-fkmr0&amp;amp;keywords=extruder%20motor%20kit%C2%A8&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;RepRap extruder kit&lt;/a&gt; as the motor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are the Machine settings:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yqlpf.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yqlpf.png&quot; alt=&quot;Screenshot of Machine settings&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a photo of two failed prints. On the left is a G and on the right is a heart.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cIMsi.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cIMsi.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Photo of two failed prints&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is what it was the G was meant to look like:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3KgHH.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3KgHH.png&quot; alt=&quot;Pronterface G&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So here is my &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.dropbox.com/s/jdeaqu8dodjm8ln/Configuration.h?dl=0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;code&gt;configuration.h&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/a&gt; file which I previously modified for my 3D printer. The filament I use is &amp;quot;Robox PLA SmartReel Cornflower Blue&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8989" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2024-01-22T15:22:25.890" LastActivityDate="2024-01-22T15:22:25.890" Title="Why is my 3D printer over extruding when I have set the flow rate very low?" Tags="|print-quality|ultimaker-cura|diy-3d-printer|extrusion|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5147" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5145" CreationDate="2017-12-19T09:54:02.703" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;First of all: Can you tell us, what kind of printer do you use and which material? Please give us some pictures of some prints as well.. Also the type of the Extruder setup is relevant. Is it a Bowden or Direct Driven extruder?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For an FDM machine like the Prusa styled printers with PLA:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Flow of 5&amp;nbsp;% is totally wrong, normally PLA should be run between 90&amp;nbsp;% and 105&amp;nbsp;% flawlessly. The problem is elsewhere but not with the Flow settings, nor the Temp is the faulty one.&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Temp between 185&amp;nbsp;°C and 210&amp;nbsp;°C should be fine for most PLAs&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Did you set up your printer correct in Cura (Preferences -&gt; Printers -&gt; Machine Settings)? Material Diameter, Nozzle size and G-Code flavour are correct?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you give us some more information, I will be glad to get this solved.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8947" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-08-06T16:15:18.367" LastActivityDate="2018-08-06T16:15:18.367" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5148" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5145" CreationDate="2017-12-19T11:50:39.307" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The fact that your printer is a scratch build using low-power stepper motors would tend to indicate that the problems lie in your hardware and/or firmware. It is very difficult to provide advice for such printers, simply because most 3D printer owners will have zero experience with them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Possible candidates for the causes of your problem are fairly obvious:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check that the stepper motors are not skipping, and that you have the correct number of steps per millimetre.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check that your extruder is not skipping, and has the correct number of steps per millimetre.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check that your firmware is matching filament flow with extruder speeds correctly.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check that your firmware is configured correctly. How you do this for a scratch build is largely down to you.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One thing that I would advise is that you reduce the jerk and acceleration values, since they look to be far too high.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You have done well to get so far with such a build, but you may have to ask yourself if there is anything to be gained in continuing with your project.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3953" LastEditorUserId="3953" LastEditDate="2017-12-19T12:04:57.017" LastActivityDate="2017-12-19T12:04:57.017" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5149" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-12-19T11:59:27.227" Score="1" ViewCount="90" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just heard about this support material that claims to be both water soluble and compatible with ABS. Is this claim true?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From what I have heard it definitely dissolves, but I am skeptical of its compatibility with the Hydrophillic ABS.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would be particularly interested in experiences with it on a &lt;em&gt;Raise N2 plus dual&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9436" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2018-09-16T12:16:27.537" LastActivityDate="2018-09-16T12:16:27.537" Title="Does HydroFill support material work with ABS?" Tags="|filament|abs|dual-nozzle|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5151" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-12-20T02:26:21.183" Score="8" ViewCount="719" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm designing a few mechanisms with OpenSCAD, and one of the parameters that need adjustment between printers/filaments is allowances between pieces that need to be assembled together (for example, if I want a &quot;5&amp;nbsp;mm diameter pin&quot; to fasten two pieces together, how much larger than 5&amp;nbsp;mm will the holes / how much smaller than 5&amp;nbsp;mm will the pin need to be).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Currently I approach the problem by setting a global variable &lt;code&gt;allowance&lt;/code&gt; and manually using it in the code, something like:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;module pin(radius) {&#xA;    cylinder(r = radius + allowance)&#xA;}&#xA;&#xA;module hole(radius) {&#xA;    cylinder(r = radius - allowance)&#xA;}&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have no real world experience with design though, so I wonder if there are common or &lt;strong&gt;coding&lt;/strong&gt; best practices to account for allowances when designing parts like for example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;specific modules to be used,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;conventional names for variables&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;specific techniques to be used (scaling? vectors?)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;conventions (like only use tolerances on the fastener, not the fastened object)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;...?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To clarify: I'm not looking on advice on how to plan the dimensions of my designs.  Rather, I am looking for advice on how to organise the OpenSCAD code generating them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9134" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-05-01T14:55:12.387" LastActivityDate="2019-05-01T14:55:12.387" Title="Are there any &quot;best&quot; or at least &quot;common&quot; practices to handle allowances in OpenSCAD code?" Tags="|3d-design|openscad|knowledgebase|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5153" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5138" CreationDate="2017-12-20T07:02:37.400" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well, to determine the time life of the gears you will need to do a test called ALT (Accelerated Life Time) but the parts should be last for a long time (not years) however this can be determined by thickness. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The torque required is not than much like a tuning up the radio volume, so if you are going to create a gear box to increase torque, just grease the parts to reduce heating on friction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4454" LastActivityDate="2017-12-20T07:02:37.400" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5154" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5145" CreationDate="2017-12-20T16:16:59.000" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I guess that either you have the hotend too far away from the first layer (so looks like underextrusion), then wrong layer height / wrong z-configuration so the layers are too small, making plastic pile up (seems like over extrusion). Eventually if the Z-Driver skips steps, it could look the same (printer trying to print the same layer several times).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is also some skipping in the drivers, as your layers are not correctly on top of each other, check if you can 'up' the amperage in the drivers, or slow everything down (speed, acceleration &amp;amp; jerk) til it works without skipping.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My best bet is that you should 1) first make your drivers stop skipping, 2) then carefully calibrate your machine using the configuration.h (line 527) so that x,y,z,e are all roughly okay at least.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then start printing :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On a side note, you can also activate the EEPROM and store the new values with GCode, this is mostly a 'convenient' thing because you don't need to recompile and flash your board at every change, so maybe do that later when everything starts to work out OK.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;HTH&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8328" LastActivityDate="2017-12-20T16:16:59.000" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5155" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5138" CreationDate="2017-12-20T16:38:08.667" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Survivability of parts is a very tricky topic, because a lot of factors go into it. While ABS is a common industrial plastic for molding, FDM introduces quite different challenges that can impact the time a piece lives. I can't estimate a lifetime for you, but I will illustrate why we can't estimate it for you, giving you things to think about in your design process:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Problem 1 - What's the printed internal part geometry?&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;FDM introduces boundries in 2 (&lt;strong&gt;r&lt;/strong&gt;,&lt;strong&gt;z&lt;/strong&gt;) dimensions . Not just the &lt;strong&gt;z&lt;/strong&gt; layers above each other do have boundries that can and will become plane of failure, each layer consists of one filament&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; that was deposited side by side to itself. These neighboring pieces (distinguishable by &lt;strong&gt;r&lt;/strong&gt; in cylindrical coordinates) have a boundry that is not of the same strength as staying on the same piece and following it around (and changing &lt;strong&gt;ψ&lt;/strong&gt;) a solid chunk of ABS (as you would get with molding). under stress, these boundries can crack. If you want to force your piece to have such a fate just to see how it looks: mount a 0.4 mm nozzle in a machine calibrated for 0.35 mm and run a 0.35 mm sliced print - it should be easy to crack it apart into a long snail of filament. Or declare your filament to be 3mm in a 1.75mm machine. The Horrible underextrusion and lack of pressure against already deposited filament makes it possible to unravel the whole filament at times.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Problem 2 - What is the intended use?&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Use is not the same as use. Yes, it might sound unintuitive, but depending on &lt;em&gt;how&lt;/em&gt; a piece is used, stress on the part is different. Let's take the same two gears. We put one of them in a hand mixer and a superlight drone. In the mixer it will spin rapidly against medium to tough loads (depending on dough) over medium periods (the timeframe here is usually minutes at max) of time. In the drone it will have considerably less load, but it will spin for much longer, maybe up to hours if the pilot is very capeable and the batteries last. In both cases wear and tear will be quite different.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Problem 3 - What determines strength?&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Strength of the part is not only determined by the filament used, it is ALSO determined by tons of other variables. Print orientation. With enclosure or not. Humidity during print. If the surface of the part is sealed or not after the print. If it was postprocessed somehow to increase capabilities. If the piece is printed hollow or solid. How long did it cure or harden after the print... There are so many variables, that each guess would be quite wild.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Problem 4 - How to get the lifetime now?!&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can't guesstimate the reliability of a product from its design and makeup only. That is why design departments create prototypes: &lt;strong&gt;To rigerously test the products.&lt;/strong&gt; This is how they learn how safe or sturdy their product is. They make prototypes and &lt;em&gt;purposefully&lt;/em&gt; put them under various kinds of stress until they break. For gears this involves spinning them in a gearbox for hours nonstop until they break, force them against a blokaded gearbox till they break, run the gearbox dry, hot or freezing, and also under other very destructive conditions. Part of this destructive test is an accelerated life time test that, just like other tests in this stage, tries to find out the maximum parameters it is useable with. A common test for hand mixers apparently is to run them 2 minutes against some gooy substance, then stop some time before repeating.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1 - For the math inclined: the filament can be represented as a function in cylidrical coordinates, f(r,φ,z)=r(ψ)*φ(ψ)+z(ψ), where ψ the path-parameter of the filament - or in other words the length already traveled. To some degree, a G-code is generated by first creating such a function and then creating the tool path from this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:29:41.667" LastActivityDate="2018-07-08T10:39:45.123" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5156" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4460" CreationDate="2017-12-20T17:10:19.980" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If an instrument sounds &amp;quot;right&amp;quot; has as much to do with how it is shaped as with how the material it is made of is layered - or not - as this changes it resonance. Let's take a few examples:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Metal, cast resins &amp;amp; hard woods all are very dense and contain (little to) no hollow spaces to dampen their resonances. This makes them the classic choice for making instruments, as just the shape changes the tune now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Balsa wood is very very light and brittle, and it is very grainy, creating some hollowness inside the wood that should resonate, changing its resonance a lot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't exactly know how the gourd is in its composition, but for percussion perposes, 3D prints are more on hollow side than on the hard wood side for low infill. Very dense (35%+) prints can have similar properties to solid resin casts, but this depends on the type of filament and printer used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Let's look for a compromise!&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From my own experience with musical instruments, there is a vougue of carbon fiber reinforced resin instruments in classics. In broad strokes, these were manucaftuered by casting resin over carbonfiber mats pressed in to a mold and then sanded and polished. In other terms, 3D printing of carbon fiber filament is around in the FDM scene, even if it highly abrasive and demands a nozzle like the ruby to print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With the right interior design (that is, an almost hollow print that just contains struts that don't seperate cavities inside the print), a carbonfiber print could possibly be filled with resin and become a 3D-printed composite, granting a much closer sound to the gourd while providing extreme durability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, such a design will take many hours of work before the first print can start. Atop that printing carbon fiber is a specialty thing not many print shops can do or do regularily. And finally, the postprocessing of filling the &amp;quot;gourd shell&amp;quot; with resin is a very delicate process, followed by coating inner and outer layer and then tuning... I estimate such a thing to be at least as pricy as several real gourds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Addendum&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After some months and this question popping back up, I realised some more things that might be used in the design of this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Thin shell, armored up.&lt;/strong&gt; Think about this the following: Print a 2 or 3 shell thichk wall, that will be the most inner. Then reinforce it with resin and carbonfiber mats until the sound is right. This would allow to tune the gourd to some degree.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Solid print, slidified.&lt;/strong&gt; You might take your model and print it solidly, yet in the design you could include tree like hollow spaces that are accessible from the outside. with a syringe. Pushing in resin via these holes would create veins of harder resin within the gourd, which might alter the tune and strengthen it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Postprocessing.&lt;/strong&gt; Ignoring the resin for a bit, you can also make a PLA gourd more stable by allowing it to cure in the oven for some time. I had some success baking it at about 100°C for about an hour. For mor information on how this changes the modulus of different materials, I suggest CNC Kitchen: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=td7n2XA4Uvk&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Thin Walls &amp;amp; PLA Annealing&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vLrISrkg46g&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Changes in annealed PLA&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:29:41.667" LastActivityDate="2018-09-14T11:18:39.093" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5157" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5158" CreationDate="2017-12-20T18:55:06.917" Score="3" ViewCount="270" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to draw a cube with cone using &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.onshape.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Onshape&lt;/a&gt;.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I need the cone to &quot;shave&quot; the corners of the cube, till it gets to the middle point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is diagram I made:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eNKbw.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Sketch&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eNKbw.png&quot; alt=&quot;Sketch&quot; title=&quot;Sketch&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the best way to do it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9450" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-06-29T07:17:49.383" LastActivityDate="2018-06-29T07:17:49.383" Title="How to draw cube with cone (Dreidel like), using Onshape?" Tags="|3d-models|3d-design|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5158" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5157" CreationDate="2017-12-20T20:14:39.653" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;After rejecting the intense interrogation process for signing up with Onshape, I've settled for a general description based on common practices in 3D modeling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You would create the rectangular solid representing the cube, as well as another rectangular (or cylindrical) solid slightly larger than the first one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AhIUz.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AhIUz.png&quot; alt=&quot;three solids stacked&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Create also a cone shape with the dimensions appropriate to the segment you wish to have remaining on the first solid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using Boolean operator or the equivalent, subtract/difference the cone shape from the second solid, resulting in a &quot;pencil point&quot; shape of empty space in the second solid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LsoLr.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LsoLr.png&quot; alt=&quot;cone subtracted from cube&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The skirt of the cone is barely visible in the image above and is transparent, the TinkerCAD™ version of subtraction. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once grouped in TinkerCAD™, the entire cube becomes a subtractive body.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2UZ1r.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2UZ1r.png&quot; alt=&quot;cutting cone shape&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Place it in the appropriate position over the first solid and perform a second subtraction/difference or Boolean equivalent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rjGS6.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rjGS6.png&quot; alt=&quot;adjusted and positioned shape&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As one may note, the original cube was not tall enough and had to be stretched to provide the desired result. Not visible in this image is that the subtractive shape was not centered on the cube and resulted in an off-center final solid. Easily corrected with alignment tools, but an important aspect when performing Boolean operations. Control-Z is your friend.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FtvL2.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FtvL2.png&quot; alt=&quot;final shape&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The above steps work with OpenSCAD™ as well as Fusion360™ and even within TinkerCAD™ but the specific steps/sequence varies from one program to the other, of course. This example was performed in TinkerCAD™ because it was the fastest method. Fusion360™ would have stretched my abilities to accomplish the same result, due to my minimal experience with that platform.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am not surprised to discover and easily locate &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.onshape.com/cad-blog/tech-tip-booleans-in-onshape&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;an exact tutorial for OnShape™&lt;/a&gt; that covers the boolean subtraction process. The images are complex within the tutorial, but the process and concepts are identical. The video accompanying the tutorial is also well done and explains clearly the steps involved.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastActivityDate="2017-12-20T20:14:39.653" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5159" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5062" CreationDate="2017-12-21T01:39:29.010" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I figured out how to do it by using the make solid tool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: I selected the whole model using control and selected make solid. Set the mode from fast to accurate. I set the solid accuracy and mesh density to anywhere from 300 to 500. Then I slowly increase offset distance until the holes are sealed. I leave the minimum thickness at 0 because it doesn't appear to help much. When I'm satisfied, I click accept. I usually use the reduce feature to make the file smaller, but it isn't required. Sorry about leaving an unhelpful answer. Hope this helps people.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6883" LastEditorUserId="6883" LastEditDate="2018-06-25T20:19:59.177" LastActivityDate="2018-06-25T20:19:59.177" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5160" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5166" CreationDate="2017-12-21T12:07:04.233" Score="2" ViewCount="3730" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most of time my prints fail due to lack of support and &quot;base&quot; for the 3D model. I'd like to know if there is any software that can automatically check my model, and add support and a &quot;base&quot; to it, if required.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6884" LastEditorUserId="9134" LastEditDate="2018-01-22T23:29:43.607" LastActivityDate="2018-01-22T23:29:43.607" Title="How to automatically add support and &quot;base&quot; to the model I am printing?" Tags="|3d-design|software|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5161" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5163" CreationDate="2017-12-21T12:43:04.930" Score="8" ViewCount="3222" Body="&lt;p&gt;I upgraded from Cura 2.7 to 3.1.0 and I'm getting horrible under extrusion, I'm sure this is the software because I rolled back to 2.7 and everything is working fine again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My printing is a Robo3D R1+ using the &quot;custom FDM printer&quot; profile.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any new setting or a setting that isn't migrated properly that causes this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="170" LastActivityDate="2019-06-30T10:45:24.833" Title="Under extrusion with Cura 3.1" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5162" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3184" CreationDate="2017-12-21T12:54:12.467" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here is an open source clay extruder from standard parts, that i designed&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.stoneflower3d.com/projects/clay-extruder-prototype/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.stoneflower3d.com/projects/clay-extruder-prototype/&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;Different designs of 3D printers, pumps, extruders etc. for clay are posted and discussed in the Google Community &quot;Make Your Own Ceramic 3D Printer&quot;, driven by Jonathan Keep (&lt;a href=&quot;https://plus.google.com/u/0/communities/109375785524125994679&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://plus.google.com/u/0/communities/109375785524125994679&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9455" LastEditorUserId="9455" LastEditDate="2017-12-21T13:11:09.370" LastActivityDate="2017-12-21T13:11:09.370" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5163" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5161" CreationDate="2017-12-21T13:30:27.923" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some users have reported upgrades to Cura changing the filament size to the default 2.85&amp;nbsp;mm. If you are using 1.75&amp;nbsp;mm filament (which most printers do), you will get extreme under-extrusion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3953" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-04-20T21:36:11.590" LastActivityDate="2019-04-20T21:36:11.590" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5164" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-12-21T15:14:44.507" Score="6" ViewCount="1546" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a K280 3D printer with a MKS V1.5 and Repetier firmware.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yCoXM.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Damaged transistor associated with E0 (3rd one on the right)&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yCoXM.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Damaged transistor associated with E0 (3rd one on the right)&quot; title=&quot;Damaged transistor associated with E0 (3rd one on the right)&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I’ve damaged the transistor associated with E0 (3rd one on the right) and so that means I need to avoid that. I’ve decided to switch to E1 for the extruder but I have a feeling I need to go in the firmware or Repetier host and manipulate that. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don’t know how and any help would be great. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only info I can access for the firmware is the EEPROM and it seems that I can’t edit the pins. Also, do I need to edit the pin for the sensor or just where the extruder goes?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9456" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-10-01T22:07:54.090" LastActivityDate="2018-10-01T22:07:54.090" Title="How to switch E0 to E1 for extruder?" Tags="|firmware|repetier|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5165" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3853" CreationDate="2017-12-21T15:48:20.280" Score="24" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ok, I tried all 3 materials.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PLA failed after less then one day, I believe it deformed from the constant pressure and fell out (I didn't find the part but I didn't really search for it, there's some tall grass below the window)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;ABS lasted about a year, it fell strait down and I found the part, it looks ok if probably deformed by just a few mm so it doesn't pressure fit anymore.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PETG still going strong as I write this&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="170" LastEditorUserId="170" LastEditDate="2018-07-18T05:22:38.230" LastActivityDate="2018-07-18T05:22:38.230" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5166" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5160" CreationDate="2017-12-21T17:54:38.450" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;This program type you seek for is called a slicer. However, you got to manually choose support structure and rafting - the tricky part is getting the configuration right for your build. To my knowledge there are no slicers that decide automatically to raft unless you configure to raft always and you have to enable support.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastActivityDate="2017-12-21T17:54:38.450" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5167" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5117" CreationDate="2017-12-22T05:52:23.443" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been looking for some where that could make a custom nozzle and the only place I have found so far that I think might be able to is: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.emachineshop.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.emachineshop.com/ &lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You would need to draw up the design of the nozzle in the software on their web site and see if they could make what you want.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1476" LastActivityDate="2017-12-22T05:52:23.443" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5168" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5117" CreationDate="2017-12-22T16:09:53.737" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;You won't need specialized nozzles, you understand the material wrong:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The benefit the properties of this material grant is not super fine prints (which you can get with small nozzles like 0.1 mm already), it is that you can print at super low temperatures. Printing it at standard 200°C will mean, that it won't solidify in the time the printer needs it to, and your walls will all melt down - in worst case it boils off and degrades into useless goop!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might print PCL onto an already completed print made from a different material with higher printing temperature (if your slicer lets you do that...), like to make a form-shaped piece.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's low melting point also means you could print parts with it that you &lt;em&gt;want&lt;/em&gt; to deform under low heat, like a standard shaped flat shin and then just dunk it into 60°C water or put onto a (towel shielded) pocket heater before molding it around the patient, making perfect fits from easy transportable (flat) parts. Or you print &quot;rivets&quot;, which you heat, put through the holes in other prints and then flatten with a pair of pliers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, it is one of the cheaper conductive filaments. You might find &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fabbaloo.com/blog/2016/6/24/the-unusual-properties-of-pcl-3d-printer-filament&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;this article&lt;/a&gt; or the &lt;a href=&quot;http://reprap.org/wiki/Polycaprolactone&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;RepRap Wiki&lt;/a&gt; enlightening.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Beware though: Many printers have a MinTemp set! For example the Ultimaker at 175°C, and you have to force the machine to ignore this with M302.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastActivityDate="2017-12-22T16:09:53.737" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5169" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4609" CreationDate="2017-12-22T19:17:15.510" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Version 4 allows you to have multi-process vase mode prints -- do the vertical surfaces in vase mode, then switch over to normal mode for the horizontals. This lets you have the best of both worlds in the same print. :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9465" LastActivityDate="2017-12-22T19:17:15.510" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5170" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5173" CreationDate="2017-12-22T22:12:51.127" Score="10" ViewCount="3515" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have built a couple of 3d printers now and I'm having a little trouble with one I'm currently on. I frankensteined this one with two of my other printers that I had built. I took the Arduino mega and ramps 1.4 out of the older one and wired it up to the newer one. When I plug the printer in and try to move the stepper motors they will go in the positive direction and skip and make loud noises when going the other direction. I have taken and separated out all the wires to make sure it wasn't a stray signal. I have also tried turning the voltage up and down on the drivers with no luck. I also swapped cables in case one might have been broken. The next step when I get home I'm going to try is connecting the old steppers and see if they work. After that I am pretty much at a loss. I already search Google and found a couple of things I could try, but figured maybe someone here might have an answer to why this might be happening. Steppers motors from the old printer are the same as the new one the only difference is manufactures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Update:&#xA;The printers are:&#xA;HE3d Prusa XI3&#xA;Max Micron Foldbot&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm just using the LCD, Ramps 1.4 and Arduino Mega 2560 R2 from the He3d and putting it on the Foldbot. With some other features but those shouldn't matter as they would work on both printers. The board from the Foldbot is the Arduino Mega 2560 built into the Ramps board MXP_PRO_V3.0. I'll try and get some pictures. Also switching steppers didn't work. Going to try to get X,Y,Z axis working separately see if i can find the problem that way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Update: Ok so I attached the old axis up and did a test with the endstops. Basically I think the new endstops must be the opposite of what the other printer was cause when i hold the end stop down the motor rotates in both directions and when i let go then it rotates only in a positive direction. I will see if this is part of the issue. I also believe that one of the motors is bad and that's why it wasn't making any sense when i first diagnose it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1075" LastEditorUserId="1075" LastEditDate="2017-12-26T06:45:18.590" LastActivityDate="2020-03-23T18:41:18.253" Title="3D printer stepper motors only going one direction and skipping in the other" Tags="|prusa-i3|diy-3d-printer|reprap|repetier|prusa-i3-rework|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5171" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5172" CreationDate="2017-12-24T09:42:04.190" Score="5" ViewCount="987" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just bought new TEVO Tarantula and tried to print xyz cube. I found that my cube's layer was shifted as showed in picture. How can I fix this ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/u53fC.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/u53fC.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9473" LastActivityDate="2017-12-31T16:02:39.850" Title="XYZ cube's layer is shifted, How can I check my TEVO Tarantula axis?" Tags="|heated-bed|calibration|axis|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5172" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5171" CreationDate="2017-12-24T16:26:14.343" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The two most common things to check:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;1) make sure your belts are properly tensioned.  If there's significant slippage in the y-drive you could get the results seen.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;2) Make sure the base layer is well attached to the base plate. you've got plenty of reference pattern on the plate shown, so check whether the lower chunk of print moved relative to the imprinted pattern at some point.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2191" LastActivityDate="2017-12-24T16:26:14.343" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5173" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5170" CreationDate="2017-12-24T18:38:43.753" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;From an electrical standpoint, a two-phase stepper motors (what most 3D printers use) works the same backwards and forwards, the phase just reverses.  If you are stalling on only one direction, I would look to see if you have a mechanical bind in that direction.  Generally a wiring issue will cause the motor to either not run at all or to run in the wrong direction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A few things you can check:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Decouple the motors from their mechanical load and confirm that they all run correctly when they aren't driving a load.  If you can't do that, disconnect them all then connect a spare motor to each cable one-at-a-time.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Turn each of the axis with your hand and make sure it turns smoothly throughout the entire range in both directions.  Note: Some times a binding issue is acceleration related - a loose frame or coupling can cause this.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Monitor the supply voltage to make sure that one of the motors is not pulling the supply down causing all the others to stall.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6417" LastActivityDate="2017-12-24T18:38:43.753" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5174" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-12-25T19:32:20.323" Score="4" ViewCount="1376" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm doing a project for college connecting an app made with app inventor to a Raspberry Pi and then using the RPi to make a printing queue for a Prusa P3 Steel. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The thing is that I already have the comm between the app and the RPi but I need to connect the RPi to the Arduino via USB and select the G-code files that are in the SD card of the Prusa to print. I don't know where should I put the function in the Marlin code or how to manage the serial port read function. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9478" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-10-09T17:47:50.783" LastActivityDate="2018-10-09T17:47:50.783" Title="Selecting G-code files from SD with serial" Tags="|marlin|g-code|prusa-i3-rework|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5176" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5188" CreationDate="2017-12-26T11:29:35.203" Score="7" ViewCount="244" Body="&lt;p&gt;I work for a company that makes items from plastics.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Many or our current runs are between 500 and 5000 copies, but knowing the company, if we find a good method to do smaller runs, they are willing to see if it is a good commercial option.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the moment we do use several different methods but the technical people are not yet looking into 3D printing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While I am not sure printing is the right option just yet, I would be surprised if it will not be in the future.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At this time I am interested in finding information to convince the tech people to look into the abilities of printers and what would impress them to look further would be printers that can produce in short times or at multiple stations so the overall run will be relatively short term.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Our current items are mostly simple in shape, (disks with relief print) and small in size (no bigger than a 2 pound coin).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do you know an online magazine where the tech people can look or can you suggest a (few) printer(s) to look at right now?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Links to online general information or names to search for will be great.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Knowing our current bunch of tech people they will likely prefer commercial available printers but proven 'home build technology' might be useful as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9481" LastEditorUserId="9134" LastEditDate="2018-01-16T15:58:14.463" LastActivityDate="2018-01-16T15:58:14.463" Title="Where to find information on 'fast' or 'professional' 3D printers?" Tags="|rapid-prototyping|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5177" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5164" CreationDate="2017-12-27T06:36:17.690" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can try editing the gcodes by searching and replacing E0 for E1, so this way the extruder E1 will be enabled.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other way is setting the Slicer to use 2 extruders but everything for printing on E1 like: Perimeter, Infill, Solid, Support/raft/skirt, Support / raft interface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The third one, Switch the transistor from E1 to E0 (your Q2 for Q1) or Q3 if you are not using the FAN output.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4454" LastActivityDate="2017-12-27T06:36:17.690" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5178" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5151" CreationDate="2017-12-27T07:25:53.167" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well, the tolerances will depend on material to be used for fabrication of the required part and also where the part will go and fit. Remember the all parts need some clearance to fit properly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Few years ago (10 years) I was working as Quality Engineer and some Design Engineers were complaining about a Dupont pin was not fitting on the PCB so they told me that I need to force the PCB manufacturing to increase the holes to the higher tolerance. Which I had to ask him firstly the pin size and told me 0.70 mm and hole size 0.80 and maximum 0.90 &#xA; - hmmm and maximum size of the pin? I asked, and they told me proudly 0.78mm so the part will fit perfectly.&#xA; - Oh, so one square pin of 0.78mm will fit on one hole of 0.9mm, but what about the diagonal dimension? if the pin on the higher dimension is close to 1.2mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Imagine what happened later, engineering changes and modifying other designs due improper tolerances. pro-engineer software was unable to calculate what the designers needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Material has shrinkage, warpage, and other conditions that is needed to know like malleability and hardness and some of this data is on the specification material or the part specification.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4454" LastActivityDate="2017-12-27T07:25:53.167" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5180" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4643" CreationDate="2017-12-27T13:37:13.613" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If your flowrate is not that well controlled it may introduce the little bulges at every corner. &#xA;It helped my printer when I lowered the &quot;jerk&quot; value in the machine settings on the printer. &#xA;The &quot;jerk&quot; determines how fast it approaches and leaves a corner. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4708" LastActivityDate="2017-12-27T13:37:13.613" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5183" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5190" CreationDate="2017-12-28T09:06:54.543" Score="2" ViewCount="455" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to print a cylinder with Flashprint. Problem is, that the .stl file i created (with OpenSCAD) is totally ruined once loaded into Flashprint. With ruined I mean the round outline is now with spikes and steps everywhere. And by loaded I mean directly after loading, not even creating the .gx files. The output of OpenSCAD looks fine, also in other stl viewers I tried.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I figured out the problem occurs more when using certain number of fragments ($fn). If its very small, loading works better. But for numbers that make it acutally look like a round circle (eg 50), Flashprint is unable to load them correctly it seems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's obvious that its no slicing or printing problem, but simply a loading one, since the shown object (which does not look any round) also prints the way it is shown in flashprint before slicing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does someone know a way to load a cylinder with flashprint correctly, or do I have to switch to different software? I already installed some but am unfamiliar with the printer settings which I do not know in detail. I really though a cylinder should'nt be too complex for any 3D software.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is the OpenSCAD Code for Cylinder, just create .stl and load into Flashprint to reproduce the Error:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;rotate_extrude($fn=70)&#xA;    translate([0, 0])&#xA;        square([20,2]);      &#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See also this image (tried native cylinder code, problem remains the same however):&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/v6qkG.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/v6qkG.png&quot; alt=&quot;&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9499" LastEditorUserId="9499" LastEditDate="2017-12-28T09:57:32.913" LastActivityDate="2017-12-30T15:23:15.033" Title="OpenSCAD to Flashprint ruins model based on number of fragments" Tags="|3d-models|software|resolution|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5184" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5183" CreationDate="2017-12-28T10:25:05.247" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your image is very helpful. I think you might find that the rendering in your slicer is intentionally degraded to minimize use of system resources. The image you see may not be an accurate representation of that which would be printed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you wish further confirmation, consider to create the g-code from the slicer and view it in a text editor. An even better option would be to use an &lt;a href=&quot;https://ncviewer.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;online g-code viewer&lt;/a&gt; and observe the results of the created g-code.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KzlRR.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KzlRR.png&quot; alt=&quot;gcode viewer screen cap&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The image above is the first line of print for a Marvin, showing that the base curves are smooth and clean. Your cylinder should appear in a similar manner, confirming that your slicer is degrading the image.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastActivityDate="2017-12-28T10:25:05.247" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5187" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5151" CreationDate="2017-12-29T06:14:14.360" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;It helps to understand the different aspects of dimensions, so you can use the terminology correctly.  This will help you define your variables in OpenSCAD with correct names.  (Tolerance is the wrong term to use.)  And once you have correct names, you'll understand how to specify the dimensions in OpenSCAD.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;Tolerance&lt;/em&gt; is the amount of random deviation or variation permitted for a given dimension.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;Allowance&lt;/em&gt; is a planned difference between a nominal or reference value and an exact value.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;Clearance&lt;/em&gt; is the intentional space between two parts.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;Interference&lt;/em&gt; is the intentional overlap between two parts. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Two other terms &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;Accuracy&lt;/em&gt; is the maximum dimensional variation between parts.  A machine cannot produce parts with a tighter tolerance than its accuracy.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;Precision&lt;/em&gt; is the size of the steps your machine is capable of. It is often confused with accuracy.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In your case you need to define the &lt;em&gt;allowance&lt;/em&gt; in order to create the &lt;em&gt;clearance&lt;/em&gt; you desire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To design your 5&amp;nbsp;mm pin and 5&amp;nbsp;mm hole, you need to understand your machine's accuracy.  The printer could print the pin larger than 5&amp;nbsp;mm or smaller than 5&amp;nbsp;mm.  Or it could print the hole larger than 5&amp;nbsp;mm or smaller than 5&amp;nbsp;mm.  You'll need to print some pins and holes and measure the differences between what you defined and what you printed.  The difference between the largest and smallest measurements you take is your machine's accuracy.  And be sure to check the accuracy in your X, Y, and Z dimensions; your printer might have a difference between them that would impact the roundness of the parts.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's say that your printer's measured accuracy is &amp;plusmn;&amp;nbsp;0.2&amp;nbsp;mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then, we move to clearance.  What is the minimum gap between parts you are looking for, and what is the maximum you can accept?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's say you want a clearance of at least 0.2&amp;nbsp;mm between the pin and hole, but no more than 1.0&amp;nbsp;mm.  Since your accuracy is &amp;plusmn; 0.2&amp;nbsp;mm, your pin will be 5.0&amp;nbsp;&amp;plusmn;&amp;nbsp;0.2&amp;nbsp;mm, so the hole must therefore be 5.6&amp;nbsp;mm&amp;nbsp;&amp;plusmn;&amp;nbsp;0.2&amp;nbsp;mm.  The minimum tolerance condition would be an minimum sized hole (5.4&amp;nbsp;mm) and a maximum sized pin (5.2&amp;nbsp;mm); the maximum tolerance would be a maximum sized hole (5.8&amp;nbsp;mm) and a minimum sized pin (4.8&amp;nbsp;mm).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that a clearance of 1.0&amp;nbsp;mm might be too sloppy for your application.  You might think to tighten the tolerances to 0.05&amp;nbsp;mm in order to reduce the clearance.  But if your printer can't produce a part that meets your specified tolerances, you would need to find a different way to manufacture or finish the parts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7197" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-05-01T14:52:54.463" LastActivityDate="2019-05-01T14:52:54.463" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5188" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5176" CreationDate="2017-12-29T17:36:44.540" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since your company specializes in small objects, &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stereolithography&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;SLA printers&lt;/a&gt; seem to be a good choice, since it has better detail but small printing area. However, SLA printers tend to require lots of post processing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you need a printer for rapid prototyping, you should be using &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fused_filament_fabrication#Fused_deposition_modeling&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;FFF or FDM printers&lt;/a&gt; which don't need any post processing. At most, you could sand surfaces to have a smoother finish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you need fast printers on the other hand, Delta type printers could be something to look at. &lt;a href=&quot;http://reprap.org/wiki/Kossel&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Kossel&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;http://reprap.org/wiki/Rostock&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Rostock&lt;/a&gt; printers are faster than standard XYZ printers/&lt;a href=&quot;http://reprap.org/wiki/CoreXY&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;CoreXY&lt;/a&gt; printers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for magazines, &lt;a href=&quot;https://makezine.com/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Make Magazine&lt;/a&gt; features 3D printers and 3D prints if that's what you're looking for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Terms you can look up online (this includes some names of popular printers): FDM printers, SLA printers, Kossel printer, Rostock printer, CoreXY printer, Prusa i3, Formlabs Form 2, Ultimaker&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have any questions and/or I got anything wrong, please notify me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6938" LastActivityDate="2017-12-29T17:36:44.540" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5189" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5045" CreationDate="2017-12-29T20:44:44.090" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could just let it print the 2mm you want for the base, then pause the print and change the filament to PP and then resuming the print after you change the filament.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9354" LastActivityDate="2017-12-29T20:44:44.090" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5190" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5183" CreationDate="2017-12-30T15:23:15.033" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;While my first try with slic3r was really bad, due the required manual setup and my lacking experience (which was the reason I really wanted to stick with Flashprint), I actually found a solution to my problem. Its more a workarround but im perfectly happy with it for now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I just load the OpenScad .stl with slic3r, use it's &quot;Export STL...&quot; feature, and load the resulting stl with Flashprint. Looks like a charm. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the problem is really the OpenSCAD specific .stl files being misinterpreted by Flashprint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hopefully this helps some of you as well and save you some trouble.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9499" LastActivityDate="2017-12-30T15:23:15.033" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5191" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5192" CreationDate="2017-12-30T22:28:28.170" Score="6" ViewCount="1949" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm getting a Prusa i3 with a replaceable nozzle. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I have a nozzle clog, can I easily get rid of it by simply:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;replacing the nozzle, or;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;removing it and submerging it in acetone, or;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;removing it and cleaning it with a blowtorch, or;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;removing it and cleaning it. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Or&lt;/em&gt; can the clog get so bad that the whole extruder has to be cleaned, and if so how could I clean it? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8877" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-06-09T13:51:37.477" LastActivityDate="2018-06-09T13:51:37.477" Title="If I have a nozzle clog, can I easily get rid of it by simply replacing the nozzle?" Tags="|extruder|nozzle|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5192" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5191" CreationDate="2017-12-31T02:08:30.883" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;The nozzle on a Prusa i3, if a genuine Prusa, would be part of the E3Dv6 assembly and is removable. It's wise to heat the nozzle to 150°C or higher, and handle with the care necessary for something that hot. When loosened, be prepared for it to fall onto the surface below. A catching tin would be a good idea, at the very least.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once removed, you can test that it's the nozzle that is clogged by pushing or extruding filament via the control panel to confirm that the rest of the system is clear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Consider also to perform a &lt;a href=&quot;https://rigid.ink/blogs/news/how-to-use-3d-printer-cleaning-filament&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;nylon cleaning of the nozzle&lt;/a&gt; before you perform the above disassembly. I've performed this process more than a few times and disagree with one aspect of the process. The process describes heating the nozzle to 250°C and forcing nylon filament into the hot end. I suggest doing so manually, not via the extruder controls, as it give you better feedback and control.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you've forced as much through as you can, allow the hot end to cool. Not included in the steps reference above is a part of the process that is semi-automated on my printer. Heat the nozzle to about 140-150°C and carefully and slowly pull the filament back out of the hot end. The above link suggests yanking it sharply. The article also includes a caution that doing so is brutal and could damage your machine. Carefully and slowly will not damage your machine. I have to use pliers to get sufficient grip on the nylon but that's a trivial aspect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The nylon will come out with debris and previous color filament. Clip off the debris and perform the task again. Repeat until the nylon is clean and you have good flow through the nozzle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NdrUy.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NdrUy.png&quot; alt=&quot;nylon cleaning&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Acetone will not dissolve PLA filament. Extreme heat may carbonize the material in the nozzle and render it useless. The nylon cleaning method is nearly universally successful unless you have a physically damaged nozze.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are kits to be purchased which are described as nylon cleaning kits, and include a small length of nylon filament and sometimes a cleaning drill. Using such a drill may damage the nozzle and is contraindicated. If you can afford to purchase a half-kilogram or full kilogram of nylon in the diameter specific to your printer, it will last quite some time. You can share segments with friends and/or members of your local makerspace and improve circumstances for many.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Nylon absorbs moisture more quickly than any other filament, making storage for extended periods challenging if you intend to print with nylon, but for cleaning, it matters little that there's moisture boiling out of it as you clean your nozzle. I've found the little bubbles in the extruded nylon to be a sign that I'm getting clean nylon through the nozzle and can expect good results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the worst case I've had thus far, I've had to push nylon four times to clear a clogged nozzle. I had some overheated PVA support material jam the nozzle and once cleared, everything flowed properly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastActivityDate="2017-12-31T02:08:30.883" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5194" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5171" CreationDate="2017-12-31T16:02:39.850" Score="1" Body="&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Do your belt goes &lt;em&gt;Sproing&lt;/em&gt; when playing it with a finger (actually it doesn't really need to make a noise, but it should be somehow reasonable quite tight). If not, tighten the belt.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Try with lower speed, for example, it is usually hard to start off with 60mm/s or more. Try 40mm/s or 30mm/s for starters.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Up the current on your drivers! You do this by turning the potentiometer on the driver (here the X-motor driver):&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To adjust the current on your stepper driver, this is a classic scheme:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With power on:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) Turn the potentiometer on the driver counter clockwise until you can move the motor by hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) Turn clockwise until you can't turn the motor by hand&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3) Continue clockwise until you can turn the motor again (as soon as you feel it can't hold really hard anymore, stop).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;4) Turn 1/4 of a turn (or maybe a bit less) counter clock wise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Done!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the current is too low, it will skip steps, especially when traveling / accelerating fast/hard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the current is too high, the motor will be, really, hot. A bit hot is okay, like 50°C can be considered a really safe maximum (it all depends of course, some motors can run at 80+ others could bake your electronics because it's placed badly etc.).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this doesn't cut it, you want to check your drivers; If you can, switch X and Y driver:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If now the Y layer doesn't work, it could be the driver.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If it still breaks the X axis, your motherboard might be fried.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also encourage you to post more information about print speeds, temperature and so on. It seems like it's a Prusa i3 clone and there are a lot of people having them and they can probably help better if this didn't cut it so please post all data available!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8328" LastActivityDate="2017-12-31T16:02:39.850" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5196" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4677" CreationDate="2017-12-31T23:12:44.780" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;When saving assembly as part, do not use the save external faces option. Exterior components is best option to use to try an aviod these problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;btw I dont have soldiworks, this is just some reseacrch I did&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9530" LastActivityDate="2017-12-31T23:12:44.780" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5197" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5203" CreationDate="2018-01-01T12:48:08.313" Score="5" ViewCount="959" Body="&lt;p&gt;So, some background. I bought a e3d Lite6. When assembling the hotend, the PTFE tube does not even go in 1/4th of the way. I found out that the issue was that the PTFE tube was too wide. It measured 4.26mm (outer diameter) and the heat break is only 4.1mm (inner diameter). How should I make my PTFE tube smaller?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6938" LastActivityDate="2018-01-02T01:20:37.740" Title="How should I make my PTFE tube smaller?" Tags="|hotend|ptfe-tube|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5198" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5206" CreationDate="2018-01-01T20:52:19.030" Score="3" ViewCount="568" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was thinking about what would happen when flexible filament is frozen. Would it become brittle or still be rather tough*. A situation I think of would be a ice tray in the freezer. It is nice to have some flex to get the ice out, but PLA and other filaments wouldn't work, but will flexible filament work?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*when I say 'tough' I mean having similar properties when unfrozen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8835" LastActivityDate="2018-01-02T03:08:14.157" Title="Flexible filament frozen" Tags="|filament|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5199" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-01-01T21:02:01.313" Score="4" ViewCount="5850" Body="&lt;p&gt;Our Anet A8 seems to be working but the filament won't come out of the extruder.  We can manually push it through though.  The gears seem to be working fine and it's warming up.  I have read the other answers on this site but none seem to fix our problem.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9537" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2018-07-08T12:04:37.487" LastActivityDate="2018-07-08T12:04:37.487" Title="Anet A8 filament not coming out" Tags="|extruder|filament|anet-a8|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5200" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5211" CreationDate="2018-01-01T23:09:19.817" Score="3" ViewCount="7792" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a prusa 13 that's shipping in the mail, and I intend to make good use of it, one also own a da vinci jr. and the one time it got so clogged that the extruder itself was filled with pla, with that said I replace the extruder, for the da vinci, but besides that, as for my a prusa, what should I do if the extruder, not the nozzle gets clogged that badly?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8877" LastActivityDate="2018-01-02T16:02:50.683" Title="What do you do If the whole extruder is clogged?" Tags="|extruder|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5201" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5200" CreationDate="2018-01-02T00:25:49.830" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The extruder is not a single component, but a collection of components. From the top, you may have a bowden tube or a direct feed type of design. If the former, there's the bowden tube which extends into the heat sink. If it is a direct feed and not an all-metal design, there will be PTFE tubing inside the heat sink.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The heat sink is a finned assembly, usually cylindrical, sometimes other shapes. Attached below that will be a threaded coupling called a heat break. Both the heat sink and heat break will be configured to have the same inside diameter, to allow the filament to pass through to the next stage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The heat break passes into the heater block. The nozzle passes into the heater block from the opposite side. The two items contact each other when properly assembled.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your nozzle is not blocked, but there is a blockage somewhere else, it would indicate that the PTFE tubing has become damaged or a piece of debris has managed to fall into the opening when filament was removed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The items are easily disassembled and the pathway for the filament can be cleared with a suitable tool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If a portion of the extruder assembly has previously filled with filament, the nozzle was not solidly secured to the heat break, or the PTFE filament had slipped back or was not fully inserted into the heat sink.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kAA41.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kAA41.png&quot; alt=&quot;extruder cross section&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastActivityDate="2018-01-02T00:25:49.830" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5202" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5200" CreationDate="2018-01-02T01:03:23.933" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Typically, any unclogging technique involves melting the plastic around the piece of debris causing the clog (what happen next can differ, depending if you are using a needle, cold pulling, or a total disassembly of the extruder).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the clog is localised to the hot end, one can usually achieve the melting via heating the nozzle as if one were to print.  Clogs that are not localised at the nozzle, are usually a symptom of a severe malfunction of the printer (damaged PTFE tube, loose assembly, broken parts...) and - while unclogging is still of essence - they should be investigated further.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In case of clogging that is not localised at the hot end, chances are you will be able to disassemble the extruder in its components (heat sink, heat break, heat block, nozzle, etc...) while cold, and clean each part mechanically, possibly having administered some heat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should the cold disassembly not be an option because some parts got stuck together thanks to the molten plastic having acted as a glue, use of an external source of heat may be required (just heating up the nozzle wouldn't probably work, as the extruder is designed to prevent heat propagating above the heat break).  Many people use a butane torch or a heat gun in these cases, and proceed to the complete disassembly of the extruder while hot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If using an external source of heat, be mindful that torches and heat guns could very easily over-heat the extruder, and damage it (so: make quick passes, and stop heating as soon as you can see/feel the plastic melting).  Also cabling and other electronic components (e.g.: thermistor) could be easily damaged, so it is advisable - if possible - to remove them from the assembly prior to heat it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9134" LastActivityDate="2018-01-02T01:03:23.933" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5203" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5197" CreationDate="2018-01-02T01:20:37.740" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would advise buying a new tube for a few reasons:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;PTFE tubes should be either 4 or 6 mm external diameter (for 1.75 or 3 mm filament respectively).  Chances are that if your external diameter is that much off from the nominal value, the inner diameter will also be inaccurate, and this could cause a lot of problems during printing, as the filament will likely bend slightly and unpredictably within the tube and the pressure in the nozzle will be unstable, as well as retraction may work inconsistently.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;A non all-metal extruder is designed with the assumption that the inner and external sections of the PTFE tube are concentric.  This may or may not be the case for your tube, but it is likely that any hand-made modification to the tube will cause the above &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; to be true.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;PTFE tubes are pretty cheap (around 2€ per metre or less, when bought online).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, should you still want to manually modify your tube, I would proceed like this (beware: untested!):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Insert the end of the tube onto a drill bit that fits snugly into it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Insert the drill bit into a drill press or a drill held in a vice or otherwise immobilised.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Let the drill spin the bit/tube at a moderate speed&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Move a piece of fine grit paper up and down the portion of the tube on the bit, trying to apply consistent pressure.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check your progress with a caliper or a micrometer often, and reduce increase the grit while approaching the desired result.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Best luck! :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9134" LastActivityDate="2018-01-02T01:20:37.740" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5204" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-01-02T02:16:44.747" Score="2" ViewCount="1495" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a printrbot simple metal with the heated bed upgrade. I think theirs a problem with my board, so long story short, I'm just trying to print without actually heating up the bed. The problem I am faced with is when I try to print from Repetier, it's still trying to connect the heated bed. I can't find any settings for shutting this off anywhere. How can I bypass this so I can still print? Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2445" LastActivityDate="2023-10-10T18:14:01.683" Title="Turn off heated bed in Repetier?" Tags="|heated-bed|software|repetier|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5205" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5176" CreationDate="2018-01-02T02:35:41.693" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;3D printing may absolutely be a viable technology for what you are trying to achieve.  The term you should search online is &lt;strong&gt;printing farm&lt;/strong&gt; or &lt;strong&gt;3D printing farm&lt;/strong&gt;.  A typical farm looks &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/6zFQi_wtBTA&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;like this&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason &lt;strong&gt;you normally want to set up a farm&lt;/strong&gt; is that - despite 3D printing being often associated to the expression &quot;rapid prototyping&quot; - 3D printing is anything but fast, and operating several machines is an easy way to increase the throughput.  (On a side note: the term &quot;rapid&quot; in &quot;rapid prototyping&quot; refers to the fact that there is little to no overhead between the design and production phases, as opposed to the need to create a mold, or send out technical drawings to a machining shop, for example).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The right technology to be used&lt;/strong&gt; (i.e.: what types of 3d printing you would need in your farm) is entirely dependent on the requirements and characteristics of the printed parts.  There are so many different 3D printing technologies, and each technology has so many variables attached to it that it would be silly for me anybody else to state with certainty which one would be best for you (your &quot;tech people&quot; will likely spend &lt;em&gt;a lot&lt;/em&gt; of time evaluating their choices), but to give you a sense of the complexity of the problem, I could mention that &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fused_filament_fabrication&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;FDM/FFF&lt;/a&gt; printers are very cost-effective, quite slow, can print in a variety of materials, have limited resolution, suffer from wear, produce anisotropic parts while &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stereolithography&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;SLA printers&lt;/a&gt; have incredible resolution, can't print large parts, struggle with solid objects, emit toxic fumes, are expensive to buy and operate, etc...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Be advised that the list of 3D printing technologies is not limited to those two (especially when it comes to industrial settings): FDM and SLA are the most known technologies as there are several consumer-grade printers using them, but DLP (Digital Light Processing), SLS (Selective Laser Sintering), SLM (Selective Laser Melting), EBM (Electronic Beam Melting), LOM (Laminated Object Manufacturing), BJ (Binder Jetting), MJ (Material Jetting) and others are also available... each with its own pros and cons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When it comes to &lt;strong&gt;source of inspiration and information&lt;/strong&gt;, I have to disagree with the suggestion made by another responder that Make Magazine would be a good resource for forming an opinion.  Make Magazine is a magazine targeting hobbyist, and as such it pitches and explores technologies that are geared towards enabling creativity.  What you should be after is information on 3D printing in a commercial setting / on an industrial scale, as the requirements of a hobbyist printing their own drone are very (very!) different from those of a company needing to meet quickly, reliably and consistently a customer's specifications.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3D printing technologies evolve continuously and quickly, so - if you are after printed material - it is essential for you to get hold of something published recently.  Off the top of my head, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.amazon.co.uk/3D-Printing-Handbook-Technologies-applications/dp/9082748509/?tag=al065-21&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;The 3D Printing Handbook: Technologies, design and applications&lt;/a&gt; that came out a couple of months ago seems to be an excellent match for your current needs of forming an opinion / acquiring information (the link is to Amazon, and allows you to browse its index online).  Keep in mind it was put together by &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.3dhubs.com/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;3D HUBS&lt;/a&gt; the largest network of manufacturing services in the world... so it is not some random guys' opinion!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A couple of &lt;strong&gt;additional considerations&lt;/strong&gt; that I would also keep in mind:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If you are planning to enter the 3D printing space be ready to fight off an established but ever-growing competition.  One of the cool things about 3D printing is that being highly automatised, having a low cost of entry, and not requiring access to huge amount of energy or raw material, it is often available as a service locally.  There are often global networks (e.g.: 3D Hubs, mentioned above) that make easier for potential customers to find a local printing facility, and that - conversely - make difficult for an isolated manufacturer to be discovered.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If you are considering setting up a 3D printing farm, I would spend a lot of time also considering its operation (extraction of fumes, backup energy sources, automatic/early detection of printing failures, replenishing of the raw matearial, etc...), as it will be a seizable part of the operating costs and associated risks.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If you are working with extremely small batches of small parts, also consider large printers over printing farms.  The risk profile is different (larger investments, single point of failure) but the economics of running a single machine may prove more efficient overall.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If you are producing functional parts (i.e.: parts meant to be loaded / exposed to mechanical stress) be advised that some printing technology (most notably FDM/FFF) requires designing the parts with the printing process in mind, as the mechanical properties of a FDM printed objects are not the same along all of its axis.  This may require additional training of your staff.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps! :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9134" LastActivityDate="2018-01-02T02:35:41.693" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5206" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5198" CreationDate="2018-01-02T03:08:14.157" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The behaviour of &quot;frozen filament&quot; will entirely depend from the specific formulation of it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The term &quot;flexible filament&quot; encompasses a variety of different polymers as for example: thermoplastic elastomers like TPE and TPU (e.g.: ninjaflex), copolymers (e.g.: bendlay), copolyesters (e.g.: Ngen Flex), polycaprolactones (e.g.: PCL), etc...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even in those broad classes of chemicals, the amount, type and quality of additives will affect the physical properties of the filament a lot.  In fact rigid.ink even produces a &lt;a href=&quot;https://rigid.ink/products/flexible-pla-1-75-mm-0-03-mm-tolerance-filament&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;em&gt;flexible PLA&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/a&gt; that proves the point of additives radically affecting the properties of the main material.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In general, all materials lose elasticity at lower temperatures (a Space Shuttle came down because &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Space_Shuttle_Challenger_disaster#Richard_Feynman&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;engineers failed to account for this&lt;/a&gt;).  Polymers that do not contain water are unlikely to crystallise though, so I would expect it to become stiffer but not to fail catastrophically at 0°C.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9134" LastActivityDate="2018-01-02T03:08:14.157" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5207" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5204" CreationDate="2018-01-02T03:21:44.297" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;A workaround would be to post-process your gcode files manually removing all &lt;code&gt;M140&lt;/code&gt; and &lt;code&gt;M190&lt;/code&gt; instructions (the one setting heated bed temperatures).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can do that manually by opening your GCODE file in a text editor and searching for &lt;code&gt;M140&lt;/code&gt; and &lt;code&gt;M190&lt;/code&gt;, but I recently had the same problem with Slic3r (Prusa edition) and I wrote a &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/prusa3d/Slic3r/issues/638#issuecomment-352229698&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;one-liner&lt;/a&gt; that does that automatically for me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9134" LastActivityDate="2018-01-02T03:21:44.297" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5208" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5199" CreationDate="2018-01-02T03:30:22.977" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;From the comments/answers to your main question, the likely culprit is the hobbed wheel not catching the filament firmly enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LQtso.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LQtso.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The hobbed wheel I am referring to is the yellowish one at the centre of the picture.  The problem could be due to:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the wheel being of poor quality, with blunt teeth&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the wheel being of the wrong diameter (too small)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the spring squeezing the wheel against the filament being too weak&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;[judging from the picture, I don't own the A8] it could even be that the nut on the lever that is pushed by the spring (top right of the picture) is too far down on the threaded rod, and prevents the lever to move far enough to push effectively.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9134" LastActivityDate="2018-01-02T03:30:22.977" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5210" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5200" CreationDate="2018-01-02T16:02:29.997" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Disassemble the hotend (always disassebble when hot), When you seperate the heat block, nozzle and the heat sink parts of the extruder if you are lucky the parts clogging the non-nozzle areas will be easy to pull out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Replace the nozzle, nozzles are cheap and not worth worrying about.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The heat block should be clear because, in most hotend I know about, the filament should transfer from the heat break to the nozzle without touching the heat block directly - if this is not true in your model then it's the same as for the heat sink below, if there's plastic where there shouldn't be you didn't screw the nozzle of heat break (or both) all the way in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the plastic doesn't come out of the heat sink easily it's time to replace the teflon tube if there is one, in an all-metal hotend it's possible the inside metal tube is damaged and you need to relace the hotend.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In any case, if the plastic doesn't come out with just a tiny bit of force stop before you damage anything, heat the componene to above the melting temperture of the plastic and then try again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="170" LastActivityDate="2018-01-02T16:02:29.997" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5211" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5200" CreationDate="2018-01-02T16:02:50.683" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are good at being patient and extremely careful, you can clean out the feeder tube by using a small drill, manually operated. Use a bit with diameter smaller than the filament in use.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I recommend first removing the nozzle.  Then,from the top, hold the drive gear open and gently work the drill bit down, removing often to clean off debris.  If the bit is long enough, sooner or later it'll project out the hole where the nozzle fits.  If not, gently work from the bottom up.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since you have the nozzle out, it's easy to see if there's gunk in the upper chamber of the nozzle; either drill that out or use heat-methods to liquify, and clean out with any soft tool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Usually any clog in the narrow orifice can now be removed by re-assembling, heating the extruder head to operational temps, and pushing the remaining gunk out simply by guiding fresh filament all the way in.  I do not recommend trying to use a micro-drill bit as that can easily damage or open up the orifice.  If you can get a piece of stiff wire (e.g. 0.375 for a 0.4 nozzle), try that once the head is at operational temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2191" LastActivityDate="2018-01-02T16:02:50.683" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5212" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-01-02T18:19:05.013" Score="8" ViewCount="12950" Body="&lt;p&gt;I added a custom boot screen to marlin by adding &lt;code&gt;_Bootscreen.h&lt;/code&gt; to the project root folder and it works fine. The problem is that the custom screen shows quickly and disappear then the marlin boot screen is then displayed for a longer time.&#xA;I want to remove the marlin boot screen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I dug around in the source code and found a &lt;code&gt;void lcd_bootscreen&lt;/code&gt; function in the   &lt;code&gt;ultralcd_impl_HD44780.h&lt;/code&gt; header. This seems to be the function that is loading the marlin's boot screen due to the comments in the code. I added &lt;code&gt;return;&lt;/code&gt; to the &lt;strong&gt;first line&lt;/strong&gt; of code in this function but the marlin's boot screen is still loading. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I remove the marlin boot screen. How can make my custom boot screen wait for more time?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The marlin version is 1.1.8.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9090" LastActivityDate="2022-12-27T22:14:26.927" Title="Remove the Marlin Boot screen" Tags="|marlin|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5213" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4660" CreationDate="2018-01-02T20:59:08.797" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;disclaimer&lt;/em&gt;: I am the maintainer of the firmware that &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/camalot/alunar-prusa-i3-marlin-i3-firmware&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;you linked&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The firmware will not improve your print quality. well, it may to some extent, but for the most part, it wont. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is fine tuning involved that may be set for MY printer, but the values may need to be changed for you. Not to mention the physical tuning that I have done with my printer. Software is not the place to initially look for print quality improvements.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some examples:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I printed anti-wobble caps for the Z-axis rods. Which improved the print drastically for me. As the print got higher, the quality got worse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I printed Z-stop improvements, so I could fine tune the Z-stop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I printed X &amp;amp; Y belt tensioners. Loose belts cause skipped steps which causes poor quality prints. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9543" LastActivityDate="2018-01-02T20:59:08.797" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5214" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-01-03T14:10:48.047" Score="4" ViewCount="2215" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am new to 3d printing having only recieved it for christmas. The filament is jammed somewhere in the extruder of my Wanhao Duplicator i3 Plus. I have tried removing it with the included hook but was unsuccessful. Is there anything else I should try before I before I dismantle the extruder, which i very much want to avoid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9551" LastEditorUserId="10404" LastEditDate="2018-07-28T23:35:42.200" LastActivityDate="2018-07-28T23:35:42.200" Title="Jammed extruder. Wanhao duplicator i3 Plus" Tags="|extruder|wanhao|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5215" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5216" CreationDate="2018-01-03T18:39:38.413" Score="8" ViewCount="770" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have just received a 3D printer for Christmas (Robo R2).  I am confused by the sheer amount of settings that I can tweak and I'm hesitant to do so until I know more about them.  I was wondering if anybody has any recommendations for literature on:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;3D printing in general (geared towards beginners);&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Designing parts specifically.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Books are preferred but websites are acceptable as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9552" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2019-09-18T09:35:17.590" LastActivityDate="2019-09-18T09:35:17.590" Title="3D printing references for beginners" Tags="|knowledgebase|literature|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2023-12-13T21:47:37.747" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5216" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5215" CreationDate="2018-01-04T02:47:44.623" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;Welcome to the fantastic, sometimes frustrating but most often glorious world of 3D printing David! :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your question is really very very broad, but here's my contribution to make your first steps a success.  First of all: I don't have experience with the Robo R2, but judging from the specs available online, I would say that you got a machine that take care of most of the troubles beginners encounter when starting out (e.g.: levelling the bed) and has a few features that allow you to print more reliably/with better quality (heated bed, enclosure, possibility for a second extruder).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Give a hug to whoever made the gift to you! ;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I like to think to 3D printing as a process that involves 4 phases (well, normally several iteration of them as &lt;em&gt;prototyping&lt;/em&gt; is a thing):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Designing (creating the mesh, i.e. the shape of the object you want to print)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Slicing (creating GCODE, i.e. the file with the step-by-step instructions for moving your printer nozzle in space, extruding the plastic, controlling temperatures and cooling, etc...)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Printing (the actual process of having your printer running that GCODE)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Post-processing (finishing the piece, by for example removing support material, sanding, vapor-smoothing the surface, painting, etc...)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Technology in the 3D printing world is moving so fast that printed information tends to get outdated quickly, and the Internet is often the best source of information.  So in the following bits I will mention the the source of information that I use[d] for myself, of which many are online rather than in print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;DESIGN&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Broadly speaking, there are two kind of designs one can do: &lt;strong&gt;decorative&lt;/strong&gt; or &lt;strong&gt;functional&lt;/strong&gt;.  Decorative designs are those in which the final object will essentially sit still on a shelf or be handled very gently (e.g.: a model of the Tour Eiffel, a miniature for RPG gaming), functional designs are those in which the final part will have to bear a load or perform some sort of mechanical work (e.g.: a drone, a shelf bracket, a pipe adapter...).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both designs need to take into consideration the physical limitations of FDM printers such as the fact that the nozzle is round and with a fixed diameter, or the fact that molten plastic needs to rest onto something, thus the need for support.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally, functional design requires an understanding of the physical properties of 3D MFD printed parts (hint: they are anisotropic, so their properties differs along their axis).  If you are interested in functional designing a book that I can highly recommend is &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.amazon.co.uk/Functional-Design-3D-Printing-Designing/dp/0692883215/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Functional Design for 3D Printing by Cliff Smyth&lt;/a&gt;.  It is concise, accessible and full of information you'll be using from your very first design.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In terms of tools, for decorative, organic forms, you will probably want to use a program like &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.blender.org/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Blender&lt;/a&gt;, that manipulate meshes directly, while for functional designs will probably turn to CAD software, like for examaple &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.freecadweb.org/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;FreeCAD&lt;/a&gt; that operate on a &quot;model&quot; and let you export the finished part as a mesh at the very end.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both Blender and FreeCAD are free software (like in: &quot;free speech&quot;) but commercial versions do exist as well (most notably from Autodesk).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Blender is professional grade software with a very steep learning curve and I would suggest to take an structured online course like &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.udemy.com/blendertutorial/learn/v4/overview&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;this one&lt;/a&gt; about it, rather than trying to learn it the DIY way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;FreeCAD belongs to a category of CAD programmes that operate on a well defined, well understood, set of principles (so it works similarly to OnShape and Fusion360 for example) and it is much easier to learn.  In my experience CAD modelling is best learnt by understanding the very basic, and then just researching further information as you go, according to the needs of your project as CAD design is full of small specific operations that is useful to know only if you actually need them (e.g.: how to draw a screw thread, or to perform a loft).  I started out with &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_HEvhclR4-o&amp;amp;list=PL6fZ68Cq3L8k0JhxnIVjZQN26cn9idJrj&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;this series of video tutorials&lt;/a&gt; by the late Roland Frank (a celebrated contributor to the FreeCAD community), but there are tons of other tutorial should you choose to go with a commercial product.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;SLICING&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Slicing is as much an art as it is science.  While the actual work of generating the GCODE is automated and requires just the click of a button, there are a myriad of settings that are mutually interdependent in their effect.  For example: filament temperature, movement speed, cooling fan, retraction and coasting all affect oozing, but each of them also affect other things (bridging, layer adhesion, curling, nominal overextrusion, etc...).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also: settings differs for each filament material, each brand, and sometimes even different spools from the same material/brand.  Moreover, you may wish to tune them depending to what you are printing (maybe you are printing a finely detailed miniature and want to go slower to reduce vibration, or maybe you are printing a torsion bar and want to increase the temperature for increasing layer adhesion, for example...).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;IMO the best way to understand how settings affect your print is playing around with calibration towers (&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1956512&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;example&lt;/a&gt;) and torture tests (&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1363023&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;example&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Calibration towers work by printing the same thing on top of each other but changing at each repetition a specific setting (like filament temperature, or extrusion multiplier).  You will then visually inspect the final piece and evaluate how the print quality changed relative to that parameter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Torture tests work by putting in the same piece a number of features that are hard for the printer to print correctly (thin walls, bridges, overhangs, to name a few).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A specific model that is sort of gold standard as a basic test is the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.3dbenchy.com/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;3D benchy&lt;/a&gt;.  The good thing about it is that it comes with a full website that also tell you how you can evaluate the print.  However, the benchy - differently than torture tests - is not designed to let you discover the limits of your printer, it is more of a quality-control test.  If you can print a 3D benchy, you should be good to go for printing &quot;regular&quot; objects.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, at least in the two most common free-as-in-freedom slicers (&lt;a href=&quot;https://ultimaker.com/en/products/ultimaker-cura-software&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Cura&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/prusa3d/Slic3r/releases&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;slic3r Prusa Edition&lt;/a&gt;) each setting comes with some explanatory text while hovering on it, that helps a lot understanding what that setting does).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;PRINTING&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How much you can affect the actual printing process depends from how &quot;open source&quot; is your printer, and if it uses standard components or not.  Consumer-grade printers get often upgraded/modded to improve print quality or tweak them for a specific job/material.  Typical upgrades are extruder upgrades, stepper motor upgrades, vibration dampeners, different sensors, etc...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Each printer is unique, but normally you can find abundant information wherever the community of owners of a specific model gathers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would also advise to subscribe to some good youtube channel about 3D printing like &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/user/ThomasSanladerer&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Tom's&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/user/TheMakersMuse&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Makers Muse&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC_7aK9PpYTqt08ERh1MewlQ&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Joel's&lt;/a&gt;, and to visit sites like &lt;a href=&quot;https://all3dp.com/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;All3dp&lt;/a&gt; regularly.  As I mentioned, 3D printing tech changes constantly, and it is good to keep tabs on new materials, new software, new components, etc...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;POST-PROCESSING&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is entirely dependent from the material you used for the print, its size, and its intended use, but I wanted to mention this nonetheless as there are amazing things you can do with &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xj53P2YzYGM&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;acetone on ABS&lt;/a&gt;, lot of &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0vgynnYzo08&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;elbow grease on PLA&lt;/a&gt; or the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oj1kgFHo3sU&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;use of an airbrush&lt;/a&gt;...  so you know 3D printing does not end with the print! ;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps you at least a bit.  Again: welcome to the the 3D printing world! :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9134" LastEditorUserId="9134" LastEditDate="2018-01-04T22:16:25.407" LastActivityDate="2018-01-04T22:16:25.407" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5218" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5214" CreationDate="2018-01-04T06:30:42.517" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Try to preheat your printer, the temperature should be above 180°C then push the filament to come out from the nozzle just 4 to 7 mm, then take out the filament from the extruder. With this step the plastic lump will get soft and will release the filament.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then use the tool to clean the nozzle pushing the residue inside the nozzle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a common problem if someone tries to change the filament without feeding a little bit (3-5mm).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4454" LastActivityDate="2018-01-04T06:30:42.517" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5219" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5212" CreationDate="2018-01-04T09:25:22.813" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;So after some search:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You can't (at least should not) remove the Marlin bootscreen according to this issue &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/issues/8186&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;code&gt;SHOW_CUSTOM_BOOTSCREEN&lt;/code&gt; hides Marlin logo&lt;/a&gt;, quote:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We wanted an additional logo - not a replacement of the Marlin logo.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;According to the &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/blob/1.1.x/Marlin/ultralcd_impl_DOGM.h#L282-L306&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;code here&lt;/a&gt; there's a constant &lt;code&gt;CUSTOM_BOOTSCREEN_TIMEOUT&lt;/code&gt; taking the default value of 2500 which is 2.5 seconds but you can redefine it in your &lt;code&gt;_Boostrap.h&lt;/code&gt; file.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This constant is only available for DOGM lcd screens which is chosen by the code here in &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/blob/1.1.x/Marlin/ultralcd.cpp#L95-L100&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;code&gt;ultralcd.cpp&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/a&gt; and without more details on your machine it's hard to tell from &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/blob/1.1.x/Marlin/Conditionals_LCD.h&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;code&gt;Conditionals_LCD.h&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/a&gt; which will be used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9345" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2022-12-27T22:14:05.073" LastActivityDate="2022-12-27T22:14:05.073" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5220" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5258" CreationDate="2018-01-04T13:32:02.013" Score="9" ViewCount="10055" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have successfully assembled my custom-built 3D printer and configured Marlin for two extruders and one heated bed. Here is a picture of the printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eudic.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eudic.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My heated bed runs on a linear axis with ball bearings. When the printer has been running for an hour or so these parts get really hot and I am afraid that the plastic parts will melt if I print any longer or with higher temperatures. So I decided to add fans below the heated bed to keep them cool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A known problem when using two extruders and a heated bed is that all three power outputs D8, D9, D10 are in use (in my setup D8 belongs to the first extruder, D9 to the bed, and D10 to the second extruder). If you want to have software-controlled fans on top of that, you need to use a workaround. I bought the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.geeetech.com/wiki/index.php/Reprap_Ramps1.4_RRD_Fan_Extender&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;RRD fan extender&lt;/a&gt; which does exactly what I need. You plug it into the RAMPS 1.4 board and get two new outputs D6 and D11.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ihNqh.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ihNqh.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Picture of the RRD fan extender&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Previously I had configured the firmware as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#define E0_AUTO_FAN_PIN 11&#xA;#define E1_AUTO_FAN_PIN 6&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This automatically enabled the fan of the left extruder E0 when its hotend exceeds 50 °C. The same goes for the right extruder E1. The fans are plugged into the fan extender's outputs D6 and D11. It all worked fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now to add fans to the heated bed, I have modified the firmware so that D11 controls both extruder fans. As long as at least one extruder is hot, both fans are running. For that purpose, I connected both extruder fans in parallel to D11 and modified the firmware as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#define E0_AUTO_FAN_PIN 11&#xA;#define E1_AUTO_FAN_PIN 11&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This part works fine and was quite easy to achieve. What I would like to do next is connect the other pin, D6, to the temperature sensor of the heated bed so that the fans underneath it become active when the bed is at 50 °C or more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I made several attempts to trick the firmware into believing that there are three hotends, registering the heated bed as E2.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#define E2_AUTO_FAN_PIN 6&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I manually defined the temperature sensor of the bed for E2 and commented out some sanity checks and conditionals to enable some parts of the firmware that control the auto-fans. While I get the code to compile, the printer usually halts immediately after it is turned on or as soon as an extruder or the bed is activated. The error messages are not very helpful (&amp;quot;killed, please restart&amp;quot; etc.).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anybody know a good way how to achieve my goal? Any help would be appreciated. Thank you in advance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9560" LastEditorUserId="9560" LastEditDate="2022-01-29T08:09:53.343" LastActivityDate="2022-01-29T08:15:51.493" Title="How to configure Marlin to enable auto-fans with dual extruder" Tags="|marlin|ramps-1.4|dual-nozzle|print-fan|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5221" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5223" CreationDate="2018-01-04T23:16:56.747" Score="3" ViewCount="7514" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am designing my own shield for the MEGA2650 that I will use to control my printer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When defining pins in the marlin firmware, the pin numbers are the pin numbers of the RAMPS shield and not the Arduino MEGA itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I define pins so that I could write &lt;code&gt;#define HEATER1PIN 5&lt;/code&gt; and it will make heater1pin be on &lt;em&gt;Arduino MEGA's&lt;/em&gt; pin 5 and &lt;strong&gt;NOT&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;em&gt;RAMPS's&lt;/em&gt; pin 5&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8367" LastEditorUserId="6417" LastEditDate="2018-01-06T03:03:30.167" LastActivityDate="2018-01-06T03:03:30.167" Title="How do I use MEGA pin number designations rather than RAMPS pin numbers in marlin" Tags="|marlin|reprap|firmware|arduino-mega-2650|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5223" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5221" CreationDate="2018-01-05T09:13:47.370" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The pin mapping that Marlin uses is defined in the file &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/blob/1.1.x/Marlin/fastio_1280.h&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;fastio_1280.h&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;/**&#xA; * Pin mapping for the 1280 and 2560&#xA; *&#xA; *   1280     22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 53 52 51 50 10 11 12 13 37 36 35 34 33 32 31 30 21 20 19 18 81 82 83 38 00 01 78 05 02 03 79 80 54 55 56 57 58 59 60 61 41 40 39 71 70 04 17 16 84 06 07 08 09 85 15 14 72 73 75 76 77 74 62 63 64 65 66 67 68 69 49 48 47 46 45 44 43 42&#xA; *   Port     A0 A1 A2 A3 A4 A5 A6 A7 B0 B1 B2 B3 B4 B5 B6 B7 C0 C1 C2 C3 C4 C5 C6 C7 D0 D1 D2 D3 D4 D5 D6 D7 E0 E1 E2 E3 E4 E5 E6 E7 F0 F1 F2 F3 F4 F5 F6 F7 G0 G1 G2 G3 G4 G5 H0 H1 H2 H3 H4 H5 H6 H7 J0 J1 J2 J3 J4 J5 J6 J7 K0 K1 K2 K3 K4 K5 K6 K7 L0 L1 L2 L3 L4 L5 L6 L7&#xA; *   Marlin   00 01 02 03 04 05 06 07 08 09 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 40 41 42 43 44 45 46 47 48 49 50 51 52 53 54 55 56 57 58 59 60 61 62 63 64 65 66 67 68 69 70 71 72 73 74 75 76 77 78 79 80 81 82 83 84 85&#xA;*/&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Confusingly, the line labeled &quot;1280&quot; refers to the pin numbers as used by Marlin. The line labeled with &quot;port&quot; gives the corresponding port/pin combination as it applies to the AtMega2560 chip itself. To translate between the port numbers given above, and the Arduino Mega pin numbers, you can use the following pinout diagram:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zGS6B.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zGS6B.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Arduino Mega Pinout&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;em&gt;Licensed under CC-BY-SA, www.bq.com&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For instance, according to the pin mapping in &lt;code&gt;fastio_1280.h&lt;/code&gt;, Marlin pin 34 is &quot;port&quot; C3. This corresponds to PC3 in the pinout diagram, which is Arduino Mega A11. Conversely, if we want to find out what PWM pin 9 is in Marlin, we can look at the diagram to find out it corresponds to PH6, which is Marlin pin 09.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to change this numbering, then unfortunately, you have to make quite a few modifications to fastio_1280.h. For instance, the &quot;reason&quot; pin 5 corresponds to the pin it does, is the following set of definitions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#define DIO5_PIN    PINE3&#xA;#define DIO5_RPORT  PINE&#xA;#define DIO5_WPORT  PORTE&#xA;#define DIO5_DDR    DDRE&#xA;#define DIO5_PWM    &amp;amp;OCR3AL&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you wanted to point pin 5 towards another pin, you'd need to change all of these lines to point to the correct registers and pin numbers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastEditorUserId="26" LastEditDate="2018-01-05T09:59:11.160" LastActivityDate="2018-01-05T09:59:11.160" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5224" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5225" CreationDate="2018-01-05T14:54:12.177" Score="4" ViewCount="2132" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just finished building my Anet A6 and I was working on inserting some filament into the extruder. It was very difficult to get the filament to go in the hole (past the gears to go down to the hot-end). What can I do that will make it easier to get the filament into the hole (I tried cutting the tip at a angle)? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8835" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2019-08-31T08:25:13.737" LastActivityDate="2019-08-31T08:25:13.737" Title="Problems with feeding the filament into the bowden tube" Tags="|extruder|anet-a6|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5225" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5224" CreationDate="2018-01-05T16:13:01.123" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;What you are after is a small common mod called... filament guide (as your question title!).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first one to pop up in my google search was this one: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/make:346736&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.thingiverse.com/make:346736&lt;/a&gt; which in turn is a make of this model: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2242903&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2242903&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, a couple of tricks that help on my printers (YMMV):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;manually straighten the first few cm filament before inserting it into the extruder (e.g.: remove the natural bend that is there because the filament came off a round spool by bending it in the opposite direction)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;when the filament is past the gears/cogs, while still keeping the cogs &quot;open&quot; (i.e.: not yet clamping the filament), twist/roll the filament between your finger.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;sharpen the tip of your filament with a pencil sharpener.  This make so that the tip of it is at the very centre of the hole, rather than at its edge.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9134" LastEditorUserId="9134" LastEditDate="2018-01-06T01:14:09.367" LastActivityDate="2018-01-06T01:14:09.367" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5226" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5550" CreationDate="2018-01-05T20:34:40.817" Score="4" ViewCount="2350" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since i updated Cura from 2.7. to 3.1. I have a really hard time at configuration and especially removing the support interfaces. The update automatically uses the settings from the old version, but as I said: it doesn't work anymore.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I even tried to create a test print with 4 copies of a test object with different settings, but there where no differences in the slicing for them. Every copy and the support interface that belongs to it was the same. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Did anybody have an idea? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Printer Anet A8 with PLA  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9575" LastActivityDate="2018-02-24T10:47:35.233" Title="Problems with support interface since cura 3.1" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|support-structures|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5227" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-01-05T21:42:41.060" Score="8" ViewCount="1131" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to find the main reason(s) for the imperfections I'm seeing in printouts from my printer. It is an &lt;a href=&quot;https://folgertech.com/collections/3d-printer-full-kits/products/folger-tech-reprap-2020-prusa-i3-full-aluminum-3d-printer-kit&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;I3 clone from Folger Tech&lt;/a&gt;. I got this printer from a friend who used it to print a larger one, so the mechanics are apparently fine to the point that they are capable of producing something of decent quality.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Filament: 1.75 mm black PLA from Janbex, unpacked three days ago, in &quot;normal&quot; appartment air since then.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Nozzle: 0.4 mm, apparently clean enough since I can push filament through the hot nozzle by hand and it comes out straight after some slight initial pigtailing. The nozzle had also been used for ABS earlier. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I have some trouble getting a 20x20x5 mm³ cube right. Two imperfections that bug me most are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A wavy pattern is visible on all vertical walls, with slanted wave fronts that &quot;wrap&quot; around the edges. If a string is printed along y and ends with a &quot;hill&quot;, the following string along x starts with a &quot;hill&quot; as well. The wavelength is pretty much constant throughout the layers.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Not fully fused shell perimeters. The perimeters do touch at certain spots, which also show a regular distance from each other. These touching spots seem to coincide with &quot;hills&quot; on the outside&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried a slower print speed and higher temperature. This part has been printed at 40 mm/s for infill and perimeter, external perimeters and first layer at 20 mm/s, 205 °C, and flow rate 110%:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5IV4E.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5IV4E.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;20 x 20 x 5 cube with undesired wavy wall pattern&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The full &lt;em&gt;slic3r&lt;/em&gt; settings as they were appended to the generated G-Code:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;; avoid_crossing_perimeters = 0&#xA;; bed_shape = 0x0,200x0,200x200,0x200&#xA;; bed_temperature = 60&#xA;; before_layer_gcode = &#xA;; bridge_acceleration = 0&#xA;; bridge_fan_speed = 100&#xA;; brim_width = 0&#xA;; complete_objects = 0&#xA;; cooling = 1&#xA;; default_acceleration = 0&#xA;; disable_fan_first_layers = 3&#xA;; duplicate_distance = 6&#xA;; end_gcode = M104 S0 ; turn off temperature\nG28 X0  ; home X axis\nM84     ; disable motors\n\n&#xA;; extruder_clearance_height = 20&#xA;; extruder_clearance_radius = 20&#xA;; extruder_offset = 0x0&#xA;; extrusion_axis = E&#xA;; extrusion_multiplier = 1.1&#xA;; fan_always_on = 0&#xA;; fan_below_layer_time = 60&#xA;; filament_colour = #FFFFFF&#xA;; filament_diameter = 1.75&#xA;; first_layer_acceleration = 0&#xA;; first_layer_bed_temperature = 65&#xA;; first_layer_extrusion_width = 200%&#xA;; first_layer_speed = 50%&#xA;; first_layer_temperature = 205&#xA;; gcode_arcs = 0&#xA;; gcode_comments = 0&#xA;; gcode_flavor = reprap&#xA;; infill_acceleration = 0&#xA;; infill_first = 0&#xA;; layer_gcode = &#xA;; max_fan_speed = 100&#xA;; max_print_speed = 80&#xA;; max_volumetric_speed = 0&#xA;; min_fan_speed = 35&#xA;; min_print_speed = 10&#xA;; min_skirt_length = 0&#xA;; notes = &#xA;; nozzle_diameter = 0.4&#xA;; only_retract_when_crossing_perimeters = 1&#xA;; ooze_prevention = 0&#xA;; output_filename_format = [input_filename_base].gcode&#xA;; perimeter_acceleration = 0&#xA;; post_process = &#xA;; pressure_advance = 0&#xA;; resolution = 0&#xA;; retract_before_travel = 2&#xA;; retract_layer_change = 0&#xA;; retract_length = 2&#xA;; retract_length_toolchange = 10&#xA;; retract_lift = 0&#xA;; retract_restart_extra = 0&#xA;; retract_restart_extra_toolchange = 0&#xA;; retract_speed = 40&#xA;; skirt_distance = 6&#xA;; skirt_height = 2&#xA;; skirts = 6&#xA;; slowdown_below_layer_time = 5&#xA;; spiral_vase = 0&#xA;; standby_temperature_delta = -5&#xA;; start_gcode = M42 P6 S0 ; enable fan\nG28 ; home all axes\nG1 Z4 F1000 ; lift nozzle\n&#xA;; temperature = 205&#xA;; threads = 2&#xA;; toolchange_gcode = &#xA;; travel_speed = 130&#xA;; use_firmware_retraction = 0&#xA;; use_relative_e_distances = 0&#xA;; use_volumetric_e = 0&#xA;; vibration_limit = 0&#xA;; wipe = 0&#xA;; z_offset = -0.05&#xA;; dont_support_bridges = 1&#xA;; extrusion_width = 0&#xA;; first_layer_height = 90%&#xA;; infill_only_where_needed = 0&#xA;; interface_shells = 0&#xA;; layer_height = 0.2&#xA;; raft_layers = 0&#xA;; seam_position = aligned&#xA;; support_material = 0&#xA;; support_material_angle = 0&#xA;; support_material_contact_distance = 0.2&#xA;; support_material_enforce_layers = 0&#xA;; support_material_extruder = 1&#xA;; support_material_extrusion_width = 0&#xA;; support_material_interface_extruder = 1&#xA;; support_material_interface_layers = 3&#xA;; support_material_interface_spacing = 0&#xA;; support_material_interface_speed = 100%&#xA;; support_material_pattern = pillars&#xA;; support_material_spacing = 2.5&#xA;; support_material_speed = 50&#xA;; support_material_threshold = 0&#xA;; xy_size_compensation = 0&#xA;; bottom_solid_layers = 3&#xA;; bridge_flow_ratio = 1&#xA;; bridge_speed = 50&#xA;; external_fill_pattern = rectilinear&#xA;; external_perimeter_extrusion_width = 0&#xA;; external_perimeter_speed = 50%&#xA;; external_perimeters_first = 0&#xA;; extra_perimeters = 1&#xA;; fill_angle = 45&#xA;; fill_density = 30%&#xA;; fill_pattern = line&#xA;; gap_fill_speed = 20&#xA;; infill_every_layers = 1&#xA;; infill_extruder = 1&#xA;; infill_extrusion_width = 0&#xA;; infill_overlap = 15%&#xA;; infill_speed = 40&#xA;; overhangs = 1&#xA;; perimeter_extruder = 1&#xA;; perimeter_extrusion_width = 0&#xA;; perimeter_speed = 40&#xA;; perimeters = 3&#xA;; small_perimeter_speed = 20&#xA;; solid_infill_below_area = 70&#xA;; solid_infill_every_layers = 0&#xA;; solid_infill_extruder = 1&#xA;; solid_infill_extrusion_width = 0&#xA;; solid_infill_speed = 20&#xA;; thin_walls = 1&#xA;; top_infill_extrusion_width = 0&#xA;; top_solid_infill_speed = 15&#xA;; top_solid_layers = 0&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What can cause this wave pattern? What I don't think it is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It's not acceleration, because the pattern doesn't start right behind a corner or other feature that requires the printer to de- or accelerate.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It's not just related to x or y, because the pattern travels around the part without interruptions&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Temperature is probably not too low since the first layer sticks very well above 195 °C, I've even seen some warping now at 205.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Filament comes in without obstacles, it's not stuck on its way to the extruder.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My guess is that my extruder is somehow extruding in waves, but I have no clue how exactly to nail that down or how it could be fixed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I gradually raised the temperature until I reached 205 °C, because with my first prints the infill was just a mess of strings. Also note that I'm a beginner - this is the first part I'm printing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Edit: hollow print with just one perimeter shell&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As suggested by mac I printed a cube with no infill and just one perimeter shell. All other settings were as above. This took a while because I had to build a light box first to create this shot:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xO7t4.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xO7t4.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;hollow cube with only one perimeter pass&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I noted during the print:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The first layer is really flat. If I had a picture of that, I'd go brag about it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I'm not sure about the second layer, but as you can see above the third bottom layer shows a wavy pattern as well. Those waves apparently also occur when the head is moving in 45°, not just x or y. Wave phase seems to be different as the head goes back and forth.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The perimeter looks a bit grainy.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Every layer starts at the corner pointing right, where the part has a slight bulge. I don't necessarily interpret that as overextrusion, since the sides with the bulge are closer to the target length than the others (20.00 +- 0.025 vs. about 19.85 +- 0.025. I have mechanical calipers with 0.05 mm resolution and am able to use them appropriately)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The part was &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; cooled with a fan because I have none.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I noticed slight vibrations on the extruder, probably coming from the extruder fan. However, the frequency of those vibrations is much higher than that of the wavy pattern I see in the print. I will replace the fan.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The steppers axes and pulleys seem to run true. Take this with a grain of salt because the pulleys don't even make a full revolution during one perimeter pass!&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The linear bearings fit nicely.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Side note: since this print has only one perimeter shell, there's no chance for multiple perimeter shells to not fuse completely [like they did/didn't (? - not a native speaker) in the original print].&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Edit 2: Cylinder with 100% flow rate (not 110%), 20% concentric infill and 3 perimeter shells&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pJb0K.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pJb0K.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;cylinder with 20% concentric infill and 3 perimeters shells&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The outmost infill layer touches the perimeter, so I have 4 perimeters effectively&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There's a wavy pattern around the perimeter, and the concentric infill looks like it's really getting thicker and thinner along the way.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The part is oriented just like the second cube above, with each layer starting to the right.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The starting point has a slight dent (not a bulge as before), as if start and end of the circles didn't touch.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Slight oozing between infill circles, where the head moved from an outer circle to the next. The outmost infill circle was printed first. Infill circles started to the &lt;em&gt;left&lt;/em&gt;. Temperature might be too high.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Edit 3: Something useful - stackable trays with slic3r Prusa Edition&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I designed this stackable tray (60 x 60 x 15 mm, 2 mm wall thickness) in openSCAD and used slic3r Prusa Edition to process it. The first tray is with 100% extrusion width (200% for the first layer) and 40 mm/s (I can't add the whole set of settings now, but will do so if necessary):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nYrtb.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nYrtb.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;stackable tray, top view, 100% default extrusion width, 40 mm/s&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DEZbp.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DEZbp.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;stackable tray, wall detail, 100% default extrusion width, 40 mm/s&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Printing time for the above part: about 90 minutes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then I increased both printing speed to 50 mm/s and extrusion width to 105%, and expected a quicker print. This is the result:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yfOrX.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yfOrX.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;stackable tray, top view, 105% default extrusion width, 50 mm/s&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pwipr.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pwipr.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;stackable tray, wall detail, 105% default extrusion width, 50 mm/s&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was surprised to see that this tray, despite the 25% increase in &quot;main printing speed&quot;, needed about 120 minutes (that's 30 more than with the settings for the first tray).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both parts are usable (and they stack), but the bottom wall is a bit bumpy from ripped apart infill. Other observations:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The walls appear to have fused better than with the original slic3r (I don't know why), so that might just be a plus of the Prusa Edition. However, other parts might turn out worse.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There's still a wavy pattern, especially on the bottom wall.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The vertical walls still look and feel a bit grainy.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I had &quot;whiskers&quot; forming where the nozzle approaches the next feature to print (best visible in the first picture of the tray labeled &quot;1&quot;). So where the nozzle is approaching from the right, a whisker formed from bottom left to top right. This is probably a tower that builds up from slight oozing, and easy to remove.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9559" LastEditorUserId="9559" LastEditDate="2018-01-17T10:17:18.117" LastActivityDate="2018-01-17T10:17:18.117" Title="Getting started: shell passes not fusing in x/y, and a slanted wavy pattern on vertical walls" Tags="|prusa-i3|print-quality|pla|slic3r|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5229" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5227" CreationDate="2018-01-06T01:34:54.907" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;First off: thank you for a very well asked question, with lots of data and info to work with. :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;My guess is that my extruder is somehow extruding in waves, but I have no clue how exactly to nail that down or how it could be fixed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the picture is difficult to verify this.  If it is an extrusion problem, the thickness of the filament deposed will vary.  I would suggest to print the same cube without infill and with single (0.4 mm) shell thickness. to be absolutely sure.  If your hypothesis is correct, the wall will thin and fatten, if you are not, it will be just wavy, but its thickness will be constant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT:&lt;/strong&gt; If it is an extrusion amount problem, the issue may be either with the extruder stepper (see below) or with the filament having an inconsistent diameter (check with a caliper).  If this is the case, also check that your hobbed wheel (the &quot;cog&quot; biting into your filament to pull it in the extruder) has consistent diameter and all of its teeth are equally sharp.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In general, this kind of regular, cyclical defects, are linked to rotating parts being misaligned.  Off the top of my head, I would suggest to verify in this order:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;that the axis of all the stepper motors (X, Y and extruder) run true (if you place a finger on them while they spin, you will immediately be able to feel if they wobble).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;that the matching pulley on each axis (where the timing belt loops back) runs also true on its axis.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;that the bearings (if any) that allow the extruder and the bed on their axis also runs true, and clamp firmly but not too hard their rail.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT 2:&lt;/strong&gt; I just thought to clarify that the above assumes the problem is mechanical.  Another reason for the defects could of course be electronic, for example electromagnetic interference from some other appliance or a defective electronic component may have your stepper driver have a fluctuating output, thus driving the stepper motor even so slightly back and forth... but I'm not that knowledgeable in electronics, so I wouldn't know how to diagnose that without specialised instruments...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9134" LastEditorUserId="9134" LastEditDate="2018-01-06T14:55:32.230" LastActivityDate="2018-01-06T14:55:32.230" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5230" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-01-06T19:01:30.123" Score="5" ViewCount="287" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought this cheap prusa i3 variation from eBay. I setup everything and now I'm trying to print some gcode file from the SD card. Using PLA.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a video of the mess! How can so fix this situation?:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/Vz46tCcrtMI&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://youtu.be/Vz46tCcrtMI&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have no clue about how to generate gcode files, so I just took the ones from the manufacturer CD.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any gcode files I can download for correctly tuning and calibrating my printer. I would like to know that my hardware setup is right, before getting into the software stuff&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9584" LastActivityDate="2018-01-06T21:44:01.743" Title="My printer is printing a messy ball. CTC prusa from Ebay" Tags="|prusa-i3|pla|extrusion|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5231" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5230" CreationDate="2018-01-06T21:44:01.743" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Looks like you need to adjust the print bed level. When z=0, the nozzle should be 0.1mm above the printing surface - and that needs to be at &lt;em&gt;every&lt;/em&gt; point of the printing area. Instructions on how to adjust this should come with your printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Essentially, the procedure is as follows (you should be able to issue these commands directly on your printer, so no gcode is needed):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;auto home, i.e. all axes go to 0.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;disable steppers, so you are able to move the print bed and the x-axis&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;put a sheet of paper on the print table. The thickness of ordinary paper is around 0.1mm, so that's good for calibrating.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;now move the nozzle around the print bed. There should be a slight (!) friction between the paper and the nozzle and this friction should be the same everywhere. If not, use the screws on the four corners to adjust the level of the print bed. Do not attempt to fully correct any deviation at once, because this might bend the print bed. Make several rounds and adjust the screws by 1/2 turn only on each round. This is a tedious procedure but it is &lt;em&gt;really&lt;/em&gt; required.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, when the nozzle is at 0.1mm above the print bed in z=0, you should be able to print and the filament should adhere to the bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A heated bed also helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;P.S.: For generating gcode files, you need a slicer. For the very first steps, I found Cura quite easy to use: you feed it with .stl files and it will slice it internally. Currently, I am using slic3r (and pronterface for controlling the printer itself).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9586" LastActivityDate="2018-01-06T21:44:01.743" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5232" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-01-07T03:42:26.057" Score="3" ViewCount="226" Body="&lt;p&gt;My Sunhokey Prusa i3 arrived with a corrupted disc. I'm awaiting a new one and finished the mechanical build via YouTube videos. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've no clue which motor controls the X, Y, and Z, axes. I&quot;m not even positive which axis is which. YouTube vids don't show the origin of all the wires/cables/cords they connect. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyone know of any CLEAR and Normal speed (or slow-able) vid/diagram that shows the electronics wiring in detail? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9591" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-08-29T12:56:48.703" LastActivityDate="2018-08-29T13:02:11.603" Title="Sunhokey Prusa i3 axis x, y, z?" Tags="|printer-building|wiring|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5233" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5232" CreationDate="2018-01-07T15:39:20.173" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;X-axis is right-to-left (Carriage motor)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Y-axis is front-to-back (Base/Bed motor)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Z-axis is up-and-down (lead screws)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are several videos on YouTube.&#xA;This &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=meKht2ObOWw&amp;amp;list=PLEHodQXu836zPQmIkCwLAE2ze_qOxoOvY&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;playlist&lt;/a&gt; seems good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6417" LastActivityDate="2018-01-07T15:39:20.173" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5234" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5237" CreationDate="2018-01-07T16:24:26.623" Score="9" ViewCount="10140" Body="&lt;p&gt;The bottom of my prints warp/curve upwards, most often at the corners. This is a very slight curve, only about 1-2 mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I print with a raft all the time.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I don't have a heated bed.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I print with PLA at 199 °C (390 °F) with a print speed of approximately 40 mm/s&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I have a Sindoh 3DWOX DP201.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What slicer settings might be the cause of this phenomena?&#xA;Or could it be 3D printer settings?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9530" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-12-07T07:42:15.217" LastActivityDate="2020-12-07T07:42:15.217" Title="Warping of bottom of print" Tags="|warping|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5235" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5234" CreationDate="2018-01-07T18:51:28.343" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have a heat bed, heat it up accordingly (for example for PLA 50 °C first layers, 40 °C then can be a good starting point).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the first layer isn't close enough, then warping can happen (Happened to me when moving from 0.3 mm layers to 0.1 mm).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are under extruding / have dirt in the system (the heat chamber) so that extrusion is uneven it can make warps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And as always, you can try to print slower, it helps not always but often.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please also do tell what temperatures (heat bed &amp;amp; nozzle) you are using and what material.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8328" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-12-07T07:38:10.263" LastActivityDate="2020-12-07T07:38:10.263" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5236" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-01-07T21:32:39.293" Score="2" ViewCount="1128" Body="&lt;p&gt;I created my model in onshape then exported it to stl file then imported it to simplify 3d to convert to gcode.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However my model didn't go any in fill, it just continue to print layer after layer in the same fasion as the 1st layer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Correct me if am wrong infill is used so that the middle of your model isn't completely solid hence saving on filament.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there something special I need to do in onshape or simplify 3d for it to use infill? To me it looked like it was just filling it up with pla &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4408" LastActivityDate="2018-02-06T22:46:28.280" Title="how to get infill on self created stl via onshapes" Tags="|3d-models|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5237" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5234" CreationDate="2018-01-07T21:49:38.930" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The first thing to understand is what causes warping&lt;/strong&gt;.  Warping is caused by the thermal contraction of the plastic when it cools down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Simplifying things a fair bit, you can visualise the process like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;hot, expanded plastic gets deposited on cooler, shrunk layers,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;when the hot plastic cools down, it shrinks and pulls the upper part of the layer below inwards&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;at this point, the layer below has a differential in the compression between its upper and lower parts, and curls up&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the problem is exacerbated at the very first layer (the one touching the bed) as this is &quot;locked&quot; to a rigid body (the bed) and cannot shrink, while subsequent layers are only attached to the somewhat flexible plastic beneath, and thus can contract.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/knXcU.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/knXcU.png&quot; alt=&quot;diagram of curling plastic&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also notice that the larger the part being printed, the stronger is the force trying to curl-up your print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once one understands all of this, then it is possible to appreciate the many ways the problem can be mitigated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are the common ones:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;USING A MATERIAL WITH LOW SHRINKAGE COEFFICIENT&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This translates in smaller tensions and thus less force &quot;pulling up&quot; the corners of your print.  Historically, 3D printing started with ABS because this material was one of the very few, relatively safe ones to source.  Nowadays there are materials like PETG which have similar mechanical properties to ABS but are much easier and forgiving to print with, so - unless you need ABS for some very specific reason (e.g.: acetone smoothing) consider never printing with it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;DECREASING THE THERMAL DIFFERENCE BETWEEN MOLTEN AND SOLID STATE&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Concretely, this means lowering the &quot;gap&quot; between the ~200°C of the nozzle and the ~20°C of room temperature by using a heated bed and - possibly - an enclosure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The heated bed not only drastically diminish the shrinkage of the first layer, but because heat radiates, and hot air goes upwards, the entire bottom of the print has shrinkage mitigated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An enclosure just increase the benefit of the heating bed, by reflecting IR radiation back towards the print and preventing hot air to escape.  A heated enclosure just improve things even further.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some slicers offer a &quot;shroud&quot; option, that encloses the entire print in an enclosed, sacrificial structure, that tries to emulate the benefits of a proper printer enclosure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;INCREASING ADHESION WITH THE PRINTING BED&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That is the &quot;brutal force&quot; approach: if you face a strong &quot;curl up&quot; force, oppose it with a strong &quot;anchor down&quot; one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The increase in adhesion can be achieved in a number of ways:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lower print speed (more time for the molten plastic to &quot;bond&quot;)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Overextrusion (more pressure, more material)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Disabling cooling fan (more progressive cooling, more time to &quot;bond&quot;)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Using a brim (more contact surface between print and bed)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Using &quot;ad hoc&quot; material on the bed (PVA glue for PLA, ABS sludge for ABS, kapton tape, hair spray, blue tape, etc...)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;REDUCING THE CURL-UP FORCE&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is typically achieved during design.  Designing is a vast field and it would be impossible to cover all the possible mitigating strategies one could use, but here are some of the most common ones:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Prefer assembling smaller parts over printing huge ones.  This is self explanatory really, as the curling force increases with the amount of material &quot;pulling&quot;, the least material one has, the less force one gets.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Make relief holes above the first layers in long structures.  This will essentially &quot;break&quot; the build-up of tension in the layer, creating many points with a little &quot;curling up force&quot; rather than two with a huge one.  Something along the lines of this, for example:&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nKSuL.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nKSuL.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;I beam with relief holes&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Avoid extensive overhangs close to the bottom of the print (this is because otherwise you will have considerably more material &quot;pulling up&quot; than you will have &quot;anchoring down&quot;.  Here is an example of what &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; to do (to be fair: this was specifically taken from a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1504207&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;bed adhesion/warping test&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/t7IDh.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/t7IDh.png&quot; alt=&quot;warping test&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course all of the above strategies can/should be combined, when possible.  Even if not warped, a part with a lot of internal tension will perform less predictably and possibly worse than a part where such tensions are lower.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9134" LastEditorUserId="9134" LastEditDate="2018-01-07T22:37:22.750" LastActivityDate="2018-01-07T22:37:22.750" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5238" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5236" CreationDate="2018-01-07T21:53:48.180" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The infill portion of your model is configured during the Simplify3D process. After loading your STL file into S3D, edit the process and examine the Infill tab and Infill slider. You'll see a percentage indicator, as well as an extruder selection (left or right, if you have two) to be used for the infill. There are other options within the configuration that would have little to no effect on the problem you are experiencing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you have checked and corrected the settings as needed, used the prepare-to-print option and press the play button for a preview to see the infill being printed before you send it to the printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;100% infill is impractical, and one can create strong models with as low as 20% infill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Infill is used to save filament, as you suggest, but it is also used to provide support for top layers on areas that are not vertical. Sometimes, one would use a higher infill figure to provide for smoother top surfaces although increasing the layer count for top/bottom can accomplish that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check your top/bottom layer figure in the layers tab to ensure you have a reasonable figure. Three or four layers are good for cosmetic reasons, more if you need additional strength. Anything higher or absurdly high would cause some of the trouble you describe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastActivityDate="2018-01-07T21:53:48.180" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5239" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7114" CreationDate="2018-01-07T21:54:45.857" Score="2" ViewCount="1474" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm new to 3d printing and I recently bought a Geeetech Prusa i3 Pro B along with a BL Touch (3D touch) sensor to do auto bed leveling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I printed the sensor holder, mounted it and the sensor to the extruder carriage and uploaded a configured Marlin firmware to the printer. It worked great for about 6 times and now, it crashes on the bed on the two points on the right of the bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried manually leveling the bed thinking that the nozzle was touching the bed plate before the sensor's needle could, but that's not the case. Even with the bed manually leveled, when using &lt;code&gt;G29&lt;/code&gt; (Auto Bed Leveling code), the Z-axis carriage crashes into the bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What can I do/check?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9597" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-10-08T08:18:17.983" LastActivityDate="2018-10-08T08:18:17.983" Title="Auto bed leveling with BL Touch sensor crashing to bed" Tags="|prusa-i3|calibration|bed-leveling|z-probe|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5240" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5236" CreationDate="2018-01-07T22:07:48.590" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't use either of the two piece of software, but the first things to pop to mind:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Inspect the slicing preview&lt;/strong&gt;: it should be self-evident if your GCODE is being generated correctly.  In my slicer the infill is red and you can discern the typical pattern within:&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jIfh2.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jIfh2.png&quot; alt=&quot;slicing preview&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Check your settings&lt;/strong&gt;: your shell thickness should be something reasonable (like 0.8mm / 2 shells) and your infill should also be below 100% if you don't want to print it solid.  For maximum strength, it doesn't help go much over 60%, typical values for light-duty parts are 20% and 30%.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Check your STL file&lt;/strong&gt;: your mesh should be a closed surface, a &quot;shell&quot;. Or the slicer won't be able to know what is &quot;inside&quot; and &quot;outside&quot;.  Many slicers verify this for you automatically and have a built-in utility to attempt to &quot;repair&quot; a broken mesh.  I use &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/prusa3d/Slic3r/releases&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;slic3r Prusa Edition&lt;/a&gt; and this information is visualised at the bottom right:&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mTl9K.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mTl9K.png&quot; alt=&quot;info box from slic3r PE&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Let the print finish&lt;/strong&gt;: the wording of your question is ambiguous, but it sounds like you may have stopped the printer before the part finished.  Certain combination of settings can be deceitful.  For example, a layer height of 0.05mm and a shell thickness of 2mm means you will see the printer making 40 (forty!) layers of solid printing, before starting to create the infill.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Try another slicer&lt;/strong&gt;: in case your slicer went berserk because of a bug (unlikely but possible), this should fix it.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On an unrelated note: the use of infill has a lot of different reasons besides &quot;saving filament&quot;, for example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;relative to an empty print, even a very light infill (5%) provides a lot of added rigidity,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;relative to a solid print, infill reduces weight and relief the tensions that are trapped in the FDM/FFF printing process&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;certain infill patterns allow to provide different responses to stressed in different directions (like for example a crash box that needs to give way in one direction but bear a load in another, or a wing that need to flex on its length but not on its chord)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;infill provide support for top layers and other concave structures that may otherwise be non-printable&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;...&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9134" LastEditorUserId="9134" LastEditDate="2018-01-07T22:22:01.147" LastActivityDate="2018-01-07T22:22:01.147" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5241" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5261" CreationDate="2018-01-07T22:57:58.193" Score="19" ViewCount="20039" Body="&lt;p&gt;Whenever a 3D printer that uses linear rails is announced (case in point: the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.cetus3d.com/cetus-3d-printer.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;cetus&lt;/a&gt;), the Internet (well... at least that corner of it dealing with 3D printing) gets abuzz with excitement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I researched a bit the topic myself, and while I understand that linear rails can be produced to a fantastic degree of precision for super-heavy machinery, it escapes my comprehension why they are considered superior &quot;by default&quot;, relative to the classic linear bearings on a shaft.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3D printing is a lightweight application, and the motion of at least 2 axis does not happen against a solid surface (where you could bolt a linear rail every few cm) but suspended between the 2 ends of the axis.  Furthermore, the internals of the bearings used on linear rails are substantially identical to those used on a shaft.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The cetus site says under the heading &quot;Quality Linear Rails&quot;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Self-lubricated | Maintenance Free | High Precision | Long Lifespan | Quiet&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;but this - in my experience - can be said of &quot;Quality Linear Bearings on a Shaft&quot; as well, and in some cases even bushing deliver to a high standard on 3D printers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, what am I missing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9134" LastActivityDate="2019-08-31T18:09:25.540" Title="Why all the excitement about linear rails?" Tags="|hardware|axis|linear-motion|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5243" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5215" CreationDate="2018-01-08T17:55:36.303" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have found that &quot;Troubleshooting and Maintaining your 3d Printer&quot; by Charles Bell has a good overview of:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;3d Printer Assembly and parts&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;3d Printer Calibration&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;3d Printer Software&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Filament materials&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;3d Printer Maintenance (both preventative and corrective)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;3d Hardware Troubleshooting&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;3d Print Troubleshooting&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9552" LastActivityDate="2018-01-08T17:55:36.303" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5245" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5248" CreationDate="2018-01-09T13:23:01.660" Score="4" ViewCount="129" Body="&lt;p&gt;After a long time tweaking my new 3D printer I solved all the unexpected errors and I can print succesful pieces but I am facing a &quot;problem&quot;, they are over sized, I found this problem trying to print a Raspberry Pi Case and an smartphone case, the printed pieces are bigger than the objects. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here some related information&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Printer&lt;/strong&gt;: Geeetech Prusa i3 Pro B&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Firmware&lt;/strong&gt;: &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/amendezcabrera/geeetech-prusa-i3-pro-b-firmware&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;My GitHub&lt;/a&gt; (Marlin)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Software&lt;/strong&gt;: Repetier Host with Slic3r&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does somebody know how could I solve it?&#xA;Thank you very much&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9549" LastEditorUserId="9549" LastEditDate="2018-01-09T15:33:34.347" LastActivityDate="2018-01-11T09:18:38.113" Title="Oversized pieces" Tags="|3d-models|marlin|stepper-driver|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5246" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5295" CreationDate="2018-01-09T13:40:35.500" Score="3" ViewCount="477" Body="&lt;p&gt;I got an Anet A8 for Christmas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am trying to print a calibration tower and the z axis stops lifting at approximately 100mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I checked that the gantry is able to travel along the full length of the threaded rods, and while resetting the bed height I noticed that the LCD display showed the extruder height above the bed.  It reads 0 at home (good) but goes back to zero when I manually turn the rods so that the gantry goes above the heigh at which the print stopped.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any thoughts on what to check? I am double checking all the mechanical bits (connection to stepper coupling, ease of turning, etc...). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My slicer is Cura 3.1.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9614" LastEditorUserId="9134" LastEditDate="2018-01-30T22:05:25.427" LastActivityDate="2018-01-30T22:08:38.497" Title="Z axis stopped part way through print" Tags="|marlin|ultimaker-cura|z-axis|anet-a8|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5247" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5311" CreationDate="2018-01-09T16:21:06.117" Score="7" ViewCount="12080" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Monoprice Select Mini v2 and it came with a 256 MB SD card. I have a bunch of 16 GB cards. I have made sure that the new SD card has a FAT32 filesystem. I copy the gcode file onto this card and when I put it in the printer, it can't find any files!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And yes, the file is at the root level of the filesystem and it uses the proper naming convention. The file works on the old card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since the old card still works, this isn't an emergency, but I want to have a backup and I don't have any other cards that small.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9512" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-12-10T06:25:02.787" LastActivityDate="2019-12-10T06:25:02.787" Title="What is the largest microSD card that a Monoprice Select Mini can read?" Tags="|firmware|hardware|monoprice-select-mini|microsd|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5248" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5245" CreationDate="2018-01-09T20:26:16.273" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You have to know:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;distance between belt teeth (usually 2mm)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;number of teeth on pulley&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;motor step angle 1.8 deg?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;microstepping count, probably 16?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then you can enter all these numbers info the calculator here:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.prusaprinters.org/calculator/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.prusaprinters.org/calculator/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5395" LastActivityDate="2018-01-09T20:26:16.273" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5249" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5110" CreationDate="2018-01-09T21:24:23.890" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;As far as I know there is not a workbench capable of producing the design you want with a single click &quot;new worm gear&quot;.  But it is a rather simple affair to create the part you want from scratch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What you want to do is to sweep a &lt;em&gt;sketch&lt;/em&gt; along a &lt;em&gt;helix&lt;/em&gt;.  It is a very similar process to the one you would follow to create a thread documented in the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.freecadweb.org/wiki/Thread_for_Screw_Tutorial&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;official tutorial&lt;/a&gt; (it's the &quot;method #3&quot; on that page).  This is how it should look like:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ss2fE.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ss2fE.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since helices are subject to a few limitation in FreeCAD, I recommend to read the section called &quot;tricks to success&quot; and the following tips, as it is &lt;em&gt;very likely&lt;/em&gt; you will incur in problems otherwise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9134" LastActivityDate="2018-01-09T21:24:23.890" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5251" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5260" CreationDate="2018-01-10T01:29:52.727" Score="10" ViewCount="8299" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have really strange problem. Thing is that my print (first layer) started ok, not good nor perfect but ok and everything was going well but then all of a sudden, near the end of a print, quality drops drastically. I'm not really sure but I think this happened because of under extrusion. I'm not so good with English so here are pictures of finished print and some more details.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://imgur.com/avASUsS.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.imgur.com/wRd9e5Y.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm using custom build Delta printer with RepRap and Repetier firmware, CURA for slicing and Repetier-host for printing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Slicing parameters in CURA are:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;- ABS 250&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C hotend and 70&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C heatbed&lt;br&gt;&#xA;- Layer height 0.2&amp;nbsp;mm (initial layer 0.18)&lt;br&gt;&#xA;- Printing speed 50&amp;nbsp;mm/s (30&amp;nbsp;mm/s outer walls)&lt;br&gt;&#xA;- Infill 40&amp;nbsp;%&lt;br&gt;&#xA;- Extrusion multiplayer 0.96 (96&amp;nbsp;%)  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do anyone have any ideas? What this can be? How can I fix this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9622" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-05-18T04:51:00.967" LastActivityDate="2020-05-18T04:51:00.967" Title="Under extrusion towards the end of the print" Tags="|print-quality|reprap|extrusion|repetier|delta|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5253" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5245" CreationDate="2018-01-10T08:12:20.133" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I finally solved it by manually adjusting the &lt;code&gt;steps per unit&lt;/code&gt; in the printer firmware. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The process is easy just move the extruder to one position and draw two marks, one at the extruder position and another one 10 cm in the X axis from the extruder position then with Repetier or with the the printer controls move the X axis 100 mm, if the extruder stops after the mark reduce the &lt;code&gt;steps per unit&lt;/code&gt; or increase them if the extruder stops before the mark, do until the movement matches both marks. Repeat for the Y axis.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can see the changes I made to the firmware in my &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/amendezcabrera/geeetech-prusa-i3-pro-b-firmware/commit/f6ba29998ccfd0dc0f0e2cba2c3ef3176f6e487f&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;GitHub&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9549" LastEditorUserId="9549" LastEditDate="2018-01-11T09:18:38.113" LastActivityDate="2018-01-11T09:18:38.113" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5254" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4980" CreationDate="2018-01-10T10:54:36.307" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;From my experience the most profound difference is in the material. Especially with eSun PLA that I have used over 10 spools I have found huge inconsistencies. In one spool the printing adhesion was fine on other spools it was very very bad. My first advise is try another branded filament, I would recomend Colorfabb, Polymaker and Formfutura for PLAs. Secondly if you want to use the eSUN try higher temperatures, go above 210 or even 220.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9625" LastActivityDate="2018-01-10T10:54:36.307" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5255" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3202" CreationDate="2018-01-10T10:59:34.317" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Heated bed definitely helps with PLA adhesion, it also helps depending the surface, for example PEI offers better adhesion than glass. Another option is to try to overextrude the first layer (125&amp;nbsp;%) and make sure it is squeezed out, so basically you get a wavy effect on the first layer. This should help a bit even in the curly corners. Another thing I have noticed from experience is the PLA itself, not all PLAs are the same so you could try another manufacturer or try your PLA in a friend's printer to see if you get the same effect. Generally on PLA we do not expect any warping, but the reality is that some do have.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9625" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-07-03T04:26:38.490" LastActivityDate="2019-07-03T04:26:38.490" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5256" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3202" CreationDate="2018-01-10T15:46:17.330" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;A lot depends on exactly which PLA you use and the build surface. I'm using one of those new-fangled high-temperature PLA's (MakerGeek's Raptor PLA, black) and a BuildTac surface on a MonoPrice Select Mini v2. From my experiments, I believe that the biggest influence in preventing warping is the BuildTac.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My slicer is Simplify3d, so the settings may be in a different format than yours. I use a hot-end temperature of 240&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C, a bed temperature of 40&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C, layer height of 0.0875&amp;nbsp;mm, a first-layer modifier of 1.5, an extrusion modifier of 0.95, and a retraction distance of 3&amp;nbsp;mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've never had a problem with warping, but these settings prevent stringing and allow me to more easily remove parts after printing. And yes, I wait until the bed gets to room temperature before removing the part.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9512" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-07-03T04:25:47.060" LastActivityDate="2019-07-03T04:25:47.060" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5257" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5336" CreationDate="2018-01-10T16:00:19.173" Score="4" ViewCount="5226" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am still at calibration stage and need some info from the PCB. I connected the USB and ran Repetier. The PCB wants to talk at a higher baud rate than my serial port says it can do. I tried setting the serial port to its highest setting 125k and reduced the PCB baud in Repetier setting to 125k. No joy. PC port reverts to 9600 every time I check it. Thoughts?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PC running Windows 7 Home Premium 32bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9614" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-07-16T21:04:57.610" LastActivityDate="2019-02-15T01:52:06.290" Title="Connecting Anet A8 to PC issue" Tags="|anet-a8|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5258" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5220" CreationDate="2018-01-10T20:33:14.197" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;After trying many different things, I found out that the solution is quite simple and requires only a few lines of code. I'll answer my own question in the hope that this will help someone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, I defined a few constants (macros actually). To keep my own additions separate, I created a new file for them called &lt;em&gt;myconfig.h&lt;/em&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#define MY_BED_TEMP_THRESHOLD 50&#xA;#define MY_BED_AUTO_FAN_PIN 6&#xA;#define MY_BED_AUTO_FAN_SPEED 255&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The pin constant corresponds to D6 which is the green marked output of the RRD Fan Extender where I connected the fans under my bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/X7gcS.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/X7gcS.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second, in the file &lt;em&gt;temperature.cpp&lt;/em&gt; of the Marlin Firmware, I included my file and added four lines of code:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#include &amp;quot;myconfig.h&amp;quot;&#xA;&#xA;... &#xA;&#xA;#if HAS_AUTO_FAN&#xA;&#xA;  void Temperature::checkExtruderAutoFans() {&#xA;  &#xA;    ...&#xA;&#xA;    HOTEND_LOOP() {&#xA;      if (current_temperature[e] &amp;gt; EXTRUDER_AUTO_FAN_TEMPERATURE)&#xA;        SBI(fanState, fanBit[e]);&#xA;    }&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;    // --- start of my code ----------&#xA;    if (current_temperature_bed &amp;gt; MY_BED_TEMP_THRESHOLD)&#xA;      digitalWrite(MY_BED_AUTO_FAN_PIN, MY_BED_AUTO_FAN_SPEED);&#xA;    else&#xA;      digitalWrite(MY_BED_AUTO_FAN_PIN, 0); &#xA;    // --- end of my code ------------&#xA;&#xA;    ...&#xA;&#xA;#endif // HAS_AUTO_FAN    &#xA;...&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now my fans automatically turn on when the bed temperature is above 50 °C, and turn off again when the bed has cooled below that temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9560" LastEditorUserId="9560" LastEditDate="2022-01-29T08:15:51.493" LastActivityDate="2022-01-29T08:15:51.493" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5259" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5257" CreationDate="2018-01-10T22:03:36.680" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are you sure that the A8 connects to a PC using a serial port? I don't know of any 3D printers that do that. Typically, 3D printers connect to PCs using a USB connection, and there will be a type-B USB socket on the printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, there will be a USB bridge chip on the printer's controller board that connects the microcontroller to the USB socket. This bridge chip does have a serial port that is used to communicate with the microcontroller. Typically, these serial ports operate at 115,200 bits per second (115.2 kbps), although this may vary. Some USB bridge chips are capable of operating at 250kbps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Often, the software running on the PC needs to know what speed the serial port on the bridge chip runs at, in order to send data at a suitable rate. Of course, the USB connection is capable of handling data at a much higher rate, but the microcontrollers used in many 3D printers are not capable of handling such speeds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that the USB bridge chip on the printer may appear as a virtual COM port on a PC.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3953" LastActivityDate="2018-01-10T22:03:36.680" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5260" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5251" CreationDate="2018-01-10T22:51:25.773" Score="4" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Do anyone have any ideas? What this can be? How can I fix this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At least judging from the pictures, that &lt;em&gt;does&lt;/em&gt; seem like under-extrusion.  Some ideas for further investigating the issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The problem may be due to the gcode being wrong&lt;/strong&gt;.  In this case, your printer is merely executing correctly... the wrong commands.  To check if this is the case:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The easiest, but inconclusive way, would be to re-slice a model that fails &lt;em&gt;consistently&lt;/em&gt;, with a different slicer.  If the second print came out good, than you would know that the problem is with the slicer.  This method is &lt;em&gt;inconclusive&lt;/em&gt; because you wouldn't not if the gcode is bad or if it simply happens that your printer cannot print well that specific sequence of commands (which may still be emitted by the other slicer under different conditions).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The more conclusive analysis would be to look at the gcode of a failed print where the fail happens between two geometrical identical layers.  This seem to be the case for the print in the picture, btw.  You should then compare the gcode of the layer that printed good with that of the layer that printed poorly.  If the gcode differs... then you positively know the slicer doesn't work as it should.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The problem may be due to a mechanical fault with the printer&lt;/strong&gt;.  Here the only idea I have to offer is overheating of the steppers and/or their controllers.  This may in turn make the extruder servo skip some steps and therefore extrude less filament.  If you perform the conclusive test above, you will know if this is the case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The problem may be due to a firmware bug&lt;/strong&gt;.  This is difficult to investigate, my only suggestion would be: upgrade to the latest and greatest, if you haven't done it already.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The problem may be filament-related&lt;/strong&gt;.  This could be a number of things, but since the problem seems to happen at towards the end of the print, and your are printing at relatively high temp, an idea could be that too much heat reaches the cold end of the extruder, interfering with its extrusion.  The easiest test here would simply be to re-print a failed print with a different filament.  In your case I would suggest some PLA, just to decrease the temperature and change the chemical composition too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These are more or less all shots in the dark, but - together with asking here - it would be what I would do to debug, had I the same problem.  Keep up posted! :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9134" LastActivityDate="2018-01-10T22:51:25.773" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5261" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5241" CreationDate="2018-01-10T23:41:18.393" Score="17" Body="&lt;p&gt;The following is a compilation of the input from a number of sources.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Linear rails in general are mechanical components that - when designing equipment - offer great flexibility.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The profile of the rail can be designed in nearly infinite ways.&lt;/strong&gt; This in turn allows for:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;Different levels of stiffness in different directions&lt;/em&gt; (for example you may have stresses only on a given plane, or you may actually want the rail to slightly flex in one plane but not in another one).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;Placing the surfaces for the rollers strategically&lt;/em&gt;, for example in a location that is unlikely to get contaminated, or where the maximum force will be applied.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;Curved paths&lt;/em&gt;, so that the carriage can move along a line that is not straight.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because the contact surface between the rollers and the bearings is flat, &lt;strong&gt;cylinders can be used instead of spheres&lt;/strong&gt;.  This in turns diminishes the mechanical stresses, and the amount of play, increases longevity and allows for more bearing capacity, among others.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Linear rails &lt;strong&gt;can be anchored along their full length&lt;/strong&gt;, rather that at their extremes, thus increasing the accuracy of their positioning, their stiffness and their bearing capacity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Linear rails &lt;strong&gt;can be machined while pre-loaded&lt;/strong&gt;, thus achieving maximum accuracy when in use, rather than when coming out of the factory.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The bearings on a linear rail only allow for one degree of movement&lt;/strong&gt;.  There need to be two rods with linear bearings/bushes to achieve the same result.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All that said, &lt;strong&gt;when it comes to the specific application of consumer-grade FDM 3D printers, it seems that none of the above is very relevant, nor confers any real advantage to the printer in terms of quality of the final print&lt;/strong&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the mechanical stresses involved in 3D printing are very small,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the movements all happen along straight lines,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;most of the axis cannot be anchored to a large, rigid body,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;...&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other hand, the design with rods + linear bearings is cheap, effective, simpler and lightweight, all characteristics that are highly desirable in a 3D printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All in all, &lt;strong&gt;it seems that there is no good reason to prefer linear rails over rods &lt;em&gt;in general&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Still, there may be &lt;em&gt;specific&lt;/em&gt; designs that may benefit from their adoption. I postulate that the Cetus printer linked in the question may be such a design: the cantilever arrangement of its axis - for example - is well served by the fact that a single rail locks movement in all but one direction, and the orientation of the X rail offers maximum rigidity against the action of gravity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9134" LastActivityDate="2018-01-10T23:41:18.393" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5262" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-01-11T02:54:44.370" Score="3" ViewCount="229" Body="&lt;p&gt;Mid way through prints the print head will crash into the print, then crash into the bed, raise up about 3 inches, and start swinging back and forth over one part of the bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have had successful prints with the same firmware, but this just started happening and I cannot wrap my head around why. The part of the bed it swings back and forth over is the same on every print. It also do not occur at any particular time, on some prints it will happen after the first few layers, on other it will happen mid way. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My printer is an anycubic kossel delta running marlin. I have tried re uploading marlin and switching slicer software. I have used mattercontrol, cura and ultimaker cura.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9630" LastActivityDate="2019-01-08T19:50:27.833" Title="Printer going wild mid print" Tags="|marlin|ultimaker-cura|delta|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5263" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5264" CreationDate="2018-01-11T05:47:28.070" Score="4" ViewCount="1335" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm relatively new in the field of 3D printing and design. By now I've created and printed some technical objects with TinkerCAD, but now I've a task, which I don't know how to solve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have the following model as STL-file:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/o8Bn1.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/o8Bn1.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now I want to &quot;adjust&quot; the arms of the model, as shown in the picture. I want the arms to hang besides the body. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know that I could cut and rotate the arms and then merge them again with TinkerCAD but the outcome dosn't look good and the workflow feels wrong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So what is the right tool/way to get this task done?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*Disclaimer: I'm not Denis Almaral, but he released this model unter CC license. So I kept his name on the image to credit him, as requested via CC.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9633" LastActivityDate="2018-01-11T12:57:33.113" Title="How to modify 3D model of body?" Tags="|3d-models|3d-design|cad|stl|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5264" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5263" CreationDate="2018-01-11T08:11:57.890" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Basically there's no good easy way to do this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At this point you only have the mesh - a list of triangles - the 3D model you have does not contain the concept of joints or moving parts so it can't regenerate the shoulder after the rotation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The original author may or may not have the ability to do this, depending on his workflow and software.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If all you have is the STL your only choice is to rotate the arm and then rebuild the shoulder from scratch and manually fix anything that doesn't look good&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="170" LastActivityDate="2018-01-11T08:11:57.890" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5265" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5251" CreationDate="2018-01-11T08:48:06.197" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This doesn't look like a configuration error.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems very likely this is a partial hotend jam.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This happens sometimes because of stale filament but most often by not cooling down the heat sink (the part just over the heat break) enough which generates heat-creep, e.g heat creeps up through the filament, which eventually melts too early, creating a blob.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's main characteristic is that at first the print is impeccable but after some amount of time, you get a complete jam or under extrusion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This can be mitigated by higher print speeds, higher layers (so that the filament moves faster), printing at colder speed (if possible), lower retraction or usually completely solved with a fan cooling down the heat sink.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8328" LastEditorUserId="8328" LastEditDate="2018-01-11T16:34:08.480" LastActivityDate="2018-01-11T16:34:08.480" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5266" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5251" CreationDate="2018-01-11T09:16:58.643" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can try to reduce your retractions (try setting it to half what it is now and try again)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your retraction is too big you can pull hot plastic into the cold area of the hotend and create a partial clog - this happened to me yesterday when I tried to intentionally print with way too much retraction to make demonstration photos for the retraction test model I uploaded to thingiverse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;note/disclaimer: that model I talked about above is &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2753088&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;, I'm the author of that model&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="170" LastActivityDate="2018-01-11T09:16:58.643" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5267" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5263" CreationDate="2018-01-11T09:59:16.943" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The correct/good method to achieve this is called &quot;rigging&quot;, but it is not an easy feat (as pointed out by others), as it requires plenty of knowledge about the software being used to edit the model, and a good understanding of the theory behind it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Skeletal_animation&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Skeletal animation&lt;/a&gt; requires the designer to set up a skeleton (also called &quot;rig&quot;, hence the slang term &quot;rigging&quot;) for the mesh and define the variables controlling the motion range of the joints and and the geometry and deformation of the mesh.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's quite some job to perform, so - unless this assignment is the first in a series of assignments having to do mesh movement for this model, or you have a keen interest in the topic - I would suggest you to take a shortcut and edit the mesh directly in a &quot;one off&quot; not reusable fashion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Rigging would conversely allow you to create a &quot;rag doll&quot; or at least a &quot;rag arm&quot; to freely and intuitively move around as you please).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The tool I would use for either task is &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.blender.org/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;blender&lt;/a&gt;.  If you want to take the shortcut, maybe a less complex software like meshmixer could also do the job (I don't have direct experience with it, though, so I'm not 100% sure).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The blender foundation have a nice series of videos on the topic, called &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;https://store.blender.org/product/humane-rigging-download/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;humane rigging&lt;/a&gt;&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9134" LastEditorUserId="9134" LastEditDate="2018-01-11T12:57:33.113" LastActivityDate="2018-01-11T12:57:33.113" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5268" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5269" CreationDate="2018-01-11T22:11:07.633" Score="3" ViewCount="3564" Body="&lt;p&gt;As first layer is so important, I am looking for an easy way to generate  the gcode to print just the first layer.&#xA;I see that with Slic3r you can cut from a Z&#xA;But for test purposes I prefer just selecting a number of layers to be generated so I can easily generate different &quot;first layer(s) tests&quot; with different first layer(s) settings (width, height, speed, flow....)&#xA;The only way I achieve it is editing the gcode.&#xA;Any help?&#xA;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4870" LastActivityDate="2018-01-12T21:04:53.217" Title="How to generate gcode only for first layer?" Tags="|slic3r|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5269" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5268" CreationDate="2018-01-11T23:27:03.123" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I understand your question like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I know I could cut the mesh and just slice the bottom of my model, but since I am interested in a given &lt;strong&gt;number of layers&lt;/strong&gt; and the heigh of a layer may change according to settings (e.g.: 0.2mm, 0.1mm, 0.05mm...), I want to find a way to generate an arbitrary number of layers from the full model.  I use slic3r.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If my understanding is correct, then you can achieve what you want with a few steps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Use verbose GCODE&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The setting is under &quot;Print settings → Output Options&quot;.  This will output gcode with comments in it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Save the finishing gcode of a valid printing job&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically, open a valid gcode file, and save the last few lines (comments will help you to understand which ones, it changes from printer to printer) in a separate file (&lt;code&gt;gcode.tail&lt;/code&gt;).  These lines are typically those that move away the nozzle from the print, disable the heating element, the steppers and the part cooling fan.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Prepare the &lt;code&gt;first-lines.sh&lt;/code&gt; script&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#! /usr/bin/env sh&#xA;sed -e '/move to next layer (3)/,$d' $1 &amp;gt; /tmp/gcode.tmp&#xA;echo ~/gcode.tail &amp;gt;&amp;gt; /tmp/gcode.tmp&#xA;echo /tmp/gcode.tmp&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What this script does is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;take a file name from the command line (&lt;code&gt;$1&lt;/code&gt;) and savie into &lt;code&gt;gcode.tmp&lt;/code&gt; only the part of it up to and excluding the line saying &quot;move to the next layer (3)&quot; (you should actually use the number of layers you actually want here, &lt;code&gt;3&lt;/code&gt; is just an example).  Again, the presence of such a line depends from you generating &quot;verbose gcode&quot;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;append to &lt;code&gt;gcode.tmp&lt;/code&gt; the content of the file &lt;code&gt;gcode.tail&lt;/code&gt; (here replace &lt;code&gt;~/&lt;/code&gt; with the actual path on your machine.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;output as a stream the full content of &lt;code&gt;gcode.tmp&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Set your printer to automatically run the script onto the generated gcode&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This setting is again under &quot;Print settings → Output Options&quot;. You have to type in the full path to &lt;code&gt;first-lines.sh&lt;/code&gt;.  Also remember to make the script executable (&lt;code&gt;chmod +x first-lines.sh&lt;/code&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also hover over the textbox to get additional information of how you can access slic3r variables there (for example you may want to read the layer height from the settings and compute within the script the number of layers you want to keep).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Profit&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;:)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Final notes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I tried the sed command and have post-processing scripts running on my gcode myself, so it should work, but I haven't tried the full procedure myself, if you encounter bugs please leave a comment so I can fix the answer for everybody. :)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I use slic3r Prusa Edition (I believe these settings are the same, but just in case... you may wish to &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/prusa3d/Slic3r/releases&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;download&lt;/a&gt; that version.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;All of the above should work out-of-the-box on all mainstream Linux distributions and OSX.  For windows, it has been suggested in the comments to install &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cygwin.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;CygWin&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Since this procedure still slices the full model and then throw away most of it, you could make it faster by only slicing a reasonably thick &quot;bottom part&quot; of your model.  For example: say that you know you will never want to print more than 5 layers and never with a layer height past 0.3mm... in this case you could only keep the bottom 2mm of your model and you'd be safe for all other combinations of layers and layer heights.  Don't keep &lt;em&gt;exactly&lt;/em&gt; 1.5mm though, as this is likely to generate a different top layer than the one in the full model.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck! :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9134" LastEditorUserId="9134" LastEditDate="2018-01-12T16:32:11.727" LastActivityDate="2018-01-12T16:32:11.727" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5270" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5273" CreationDate="2018-01-12T00:56:30.123" Score="2" ViewCount="2955" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Disclaimer&lt;/strong&gt;: I have read about this elsewhere but haven't found a solution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Printer&lt;/strong&gt;: Printrbot Simple Metal with heated bed&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Slicer&lt;/strong&gt;: Cura 15.04.6 (also tried Cura 3.1)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Printing software&lt;/strong&gt;: Whatever Cura 15.04.6 comes with when printing from USB&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The print goes well for the first couple layers then just stops.  It stays heated, fan keeps blowing, but print has failed.  Here is the error:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;code&gt;...&#xA;Send: N19517G1 X47.047 Y59.035 E1574.00486*126&#xA;Recv: ok&#xA;Send: N19518G1 X68.604 Y74.097 E1574.44219*122&#xA;Serial timeout while writing to serial port, trying again.&#xA;Unexpected error while writing serial port: SerialException: 'WriteFile failed ([Error 22] The device does not recognize the command.)' @ machineCom.py:_sendCommand:565&#xA;Changing monitoring state from 'Printing' to 'Error: SerialException: 'WriteFile failed ...'&#xA;Connection closed, closing down monitor&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have gotten this using Cura 3.1 to slice as well as Cura 15.04.6 (though the error above was using the Cura 15.04.6).  I've tried using a different interface for printing, but nothing helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas on solving this?  I feel like I am missing a small but simple detail here to making it work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[Edit] Added printing info at top to make it a little more clear what I was using.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9642" LastEditorUserId="9642" LastEditDate="2018-01-12T15:07:49.280" LastActivityDate="2018-01-12T16:28:21.327" Title="SerialException: 'WriteFile failed ([Error 22]...' Printrbot Simple Metal using Cura 15.04.6" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|g-code|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5271" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-01-12T01:45:22.337" Score="5" ViewCount="1018" Body="&lt;p&gt;Googling 'HDPLA' has so far availed me very little. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://3dinsider.com/what-is-pla/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://3dinsider.com/what-is-pla/&lt;/a&gt; indicates that /all/ modern PLA is 'high density' compared to 'the early days'. But a fellow at the local makerspace indicated that he was specifically using 'HDPLA', with [he claimed] markedly better properties than regular PLA in the final product.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A company named Florion claims to have some secret sauce they add to their PLA, and Maker Filament touts a high temp PLA; but neither seems to use the 'HD' prefix.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I haven't yet been able to track down the fellow to get any more specifics from him. There's no reel of the stuff sitting around so I can't look at its labeling for clues. He claimed to be fabbing lab fittings but I don't know the intended operating situation/requirements. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's possible he meant something else, like HDPE, which would be quite inert and thus a good choice for lab fittings--but I'd like to think that if it was lab equipment he was making he'd get the name of the polymer right.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Comments, including any regarding the Florion or Maker Filament or any other 'high performance' PLAs, would be most welcome.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9643" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2018-09-16T12:16:16.170" LastActivityDate="2018-09-16T12:16:16.170" Title="What is &quot;HDPLA&quot;, and why is it so hard to find out more about it?" Tags="|filament|pla|quality|filament-quality|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5272" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5271" CreationDate="2018-01-12T10:02:47.800" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I doubt that it means very much at all. Filament manufacturers are very tight-lipped about the co-polymers that they add to their base stock in order to improve handling and performance characteristics, so it is impossible to say. The only common attribute that I can see is an advertised diameter tolerance of &amp;plusmn;0.02mm. Maybe HD stands for &lt;em&gt;high-definition&lt;/em&gt;, rather than &lt;em&gt;high-density&lt;/em&gt;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3953" LastEditorUserId="3953" LastEditDate="2018-01-12T10:07:51.867" LastActivityDate="2018-01-12T10:07:51.867" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5273" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5270" CreationDate="2018-01-12T16:28:21.327" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;From the look of it, and given that you already two different slicers, it look like this may be a hardware issue.  I have had very similar error messages with my cheap Chinese printer and this is ultimately why &lt;strong&gt;I ended up always printing via the SD card and stop worrying&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, the error is about the serial connection over your USB cable.  I was about to write a list of suggestions, but I found out that your manufacturer already has a troubleshooting guide for your printer &lt;a href=&quot;https://printrbot.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/articles/204376564&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Adding my own suggestions to those of Printrbot, this is the final troubleshooting guide (the linked page has detailed instructions for each step but 6 and 7):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cycle power&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Update your Operating System.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;[Windows users only] run a VCP (Virtual Com Port) driver wizard&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check physical connections and swap power and usb cables.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use a standard 2.0 USB input rather than USB 3.0, if applicable&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Make sure that your printer is away from any potential source of EMI (Electro-Magnetic Interference).  Microwaves ovens, many types of energy-saving lamps and power bricks/adapters are known offenders.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If possible, reduce the serial speed of your connection (revert if this does not solve the issue, as it may effect print speed and quality).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Flash your Printrboard&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To clarify what these tips are all about:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Step 1 is about making sure you don't have your computer and printer in &quot;dirty states&quot; (as in: with their serial buffer corrupted or stuck).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Step 2-3 are about making sure you have as many known software bugs and problems patched as you can, as well as all the latest features.  This is especially important if you are asking for help, as nobody is going to downgrade their own machines just to replicate a user' unique state.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Step 4-7 are about diminishing the possibility that the signal in your cables gets disrupted and mangled along the way between the computer and the printer.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Step 8 is like 2-3 but for your printer firmware, rather than your computer software.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9134" LastActivityDate="2018-01-12T16:28:21.327" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5274" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5268" CreationDate="2018-01-12T21:04:53.217" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could just insert an M30 at the end of layer 1, and the job will end there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4922" LastActivityDate="2018-01-12T21:04:53.217" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5275" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-01-12T22:00:32.157" Score="6" ViewCount="8710" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've just finished building a new printer and I wanted to take advantage of a 32 bits board I ordered some time ago. The board is an MKS SBase 1.3&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've been researching the Smoothiware firmware but somehow I'm not convinced by it yet. One of the things pulling me off is the Z-Probe behavior. On my Arduino-Marlin 1.1.8 machine, I have a probe which serves as both probe and Z-Endstop without a problem and very elegant implemented whereas on Smoothie, it's not so trivial as far as I've seen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway, there is a branch of Marlin which is not yet for release but for testing and it supports 32 bits boards, being mine mentioned above one of them: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/tree/bugfix-2.0.x&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/tree/bugfix-2.0.x&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have yet to find some documentation explaining how to install it. The closest thing I found is a thread on their GitHub &quot;forum&quot;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/issues/8131&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/issues/8131&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems that you have to build the project to create a firmware.bin file which you can copy to the microSD card and it will flash automatically to the board... again, no &quot;official&quot; documentation found.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've tried the steps described in this thread but I'm not able to compile for my board as it gives an error no matter what:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Marlin/src/gcode/eeprom/M500-M504.cpp:74:5: error: no matching function for call to 'MarlinSettings::report(bool, int16_t&amp;amp;)'&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has somebody successfully compiled this firmware? Is there something I might be doing wrong?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm on a macOS machine, using Atom as editor with the Platformio-IDE installed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any help is appreciated,&#xA;Thanks in advance!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8274" LastActivityDate="2018-10-05T18:36:57.807" Title="Compiling Marlin 2.0" Tags="|marlin|firmware|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5276" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5277" CreationDate="2018-01-13T02:59:25.773" Score="6" ViewCount="17627" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here is my understanding of Coasting: Coasting stops extruding early in a move so that the string itself will finish the layer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is my understanding of Combing: Combing reduces the need to retract during travel moves by making sure that the nozzle oozes where you want it to on the way to the next point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm curious as to what types of prints these are good for, and also what types of prints these would be bad for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So for instance, Coasting is good for prints that have a high propensity to exhibit stringing, but what types of prints would I want coasting to be deselected for?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Similarly for combing, although I know neither the pros nor cons other than it reduces the number of retractions (decreases wear on extruder?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In short, basically I'm looking for the pros and cons of both of these settings. Also if my understanding of the settings themselves is incorrect please let me know. Any advice would be much appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9552" LastActivityDate="2018-01-13T10:19:09.130" Title="Combing and Coasting" Tags="|slicing|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5277" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5276" CreationDate="2018-01-13T10:15:59.277" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;If anything, combing and coasting allow to &lt;strong&gt;mitigate problems that are printer and filament specific&lt;/strong&gt;, rather than dependent on particular STL models.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Combing helps&lt;/strong&gt; - as you imply in your question - &lt;strong&gt;with materials prone to oozing&lt;/strong&gt; (e.g. PETG)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Coasting is particularly good for printers with a bowden extruders and low jerk/retraction speeds&lt;/strong&gt;.  This is because in bowden extruders there is a lot of filament compressed between the teeth of the extruder servo and the nozzle, and that pressure doesn't instantly disappears when the printer stop &quot;pushing&quot; (i.e.: turning the extruder servo).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I believe there are &lt;strong&gt;firmware implementations where coasting is also used when approaching sharp corners&lt;/strong&gt;.  This is to mitigate the problem of &quot;blobs&quot; forming there.  The mechanics of this are similar to those explained above: the pressure within the extruder cannot be instantly relieved and coasting accounts for that.  The only difference being that - because of the micro-scale of the problem - even non-bowden printers are prone to corner blobs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my experience (I look forward to other answers to &quot;compare notes&quot;) there are &lt;strong&gt;very few reasons not to use combing&lt;/strong&gt;.  The only risk with it is that it increases the risk of the nozzle crashing into the print and destroying it.  It sound dramatic, but it is in practice it requires everything to work against you: a big blob on the previous layer, the nozzle passing exactly there, poor bed adhesion... for me that has proved problematic only when printing miniatures with a 0.2 mm nozzle and 0.05 mm layer height (on a cheap printer).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;There is of course a&lt;/strong&gt; (usually very small) &lt;strong&gt;time penalty in combing&lt;/strong&gt;, as it typically requires the nozzle to travel longer paths.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my experience (again: YMMV, I look forward to more answers!) &lt;strong&gt;the limitations of coasting are related to the way it is implemented&lt;/strong&gt;.  For example, a given coasting setting may work great for getting rid of oozing, but will create under-extrusion in other parts of the print, as the calculations performed within the firmware may be spot-on for linear motion but inaccurate for corners, or vice-versa.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I believe this is the reason while some popular slicers (like cura) have this setting hidden under &quot;experimental&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9134" LastActivityDate="2018-01-13T10:15:59.277" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5278" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5276" CreationDate="2018-01-13T10:19:09.130" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Coasting is good for filaments that ooze. The stop/up/start time at the end of a layer can be long enough that a visible seam appears if the layer starts in the same place. Transparent filaments also suffer from the velocity effect at layer shifts (more transparent when extruded slower).&#xA;The disadvantage is that it becomes another parameter to tune per filament.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Combing is most useful where a part has internal spaces, but might result in longer travel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4927" LastActivityDate="2018-01-13T10:19:09.130" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5279" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5282" CreationDate="2018-01-13T17:16:51.197" Score="2" ViewCount="517" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I have an MKS Sbase v1.3 that I am trying to use in a delta printer. I am trying to use a PNP inductive sensor with it and it doesn't work. I have tried using a voltage divider with it already (10k ohm and 15k ohm) but it doesn't give any signal when the probe is triggered. Can anyone help me? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;P.S Yes, I do know that the board has physical pullups. I am thinking of using NPN MOSFETS but I don't know how I should wire them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6938" LastActivityDate="2018-01-14T13:59:18.557" Title="MKS Sbase Probing" Tags="|z-probe|wiring|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5280" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-01-13T19:38:05.523" Score="7" ViewCount="3647" Body="&lt;p&gt;3D printing gurus,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've read on several forums that people have had issues with printing with PETG or even PLA on glass and it sticks so well to the glass that chunks of glass rip off due to thermal stresses from the glass/plastic bond thermally contracting at different amounts. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm looking for a way to actually increase the adhesion to that point (or beyond) so that I could get a watertight seal on a plastic to glass interface. A lot of the forums mention that these problems occur when the extruder head is too close to the glass build plate and thus &quot;bonds&quot; the plastic to the glass somehow. Is this the case or are there other methods (with just the filament and the glass) that could make this happen?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9652" LastActivityDate="2018-06-09T20:34:23.640" Title="How can I get PLA or PETG to stick to a glass bed permanently without adhesives?" Tags="|pla|extruder|heated-bed|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5281" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5280" CreationDate="2018-01-13T20:23:41.360" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are seven factors that I can think of, that contribute to the adhesion of the first layer onto &lt;strong&gt;bare&lt;/strong&gt; glass:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;glass cleanliness&lt;/strong&gt;: dish soap and hot water, dried by patting down with quality kitchen paper is what seems to work best for me.  Beware of fingerprints.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;glass roughness&lt;/strong&gt;: a common way to increase adhesion to glass is to rough-up its surface by scratching with some fine sandpaper.  This works best if you take care of sanding in multiple directions (so that you have grooves crossing each other).  I suppose an experiment you could try is printing on frosted glass (the side that has been sandblasted or etched of course).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;tuning of the bed&lt;/strong&gt;: your bed should be super-flat and perfectly leveled.  Use an &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Indicator_%28distance_amplifying_instrument%29&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;indicator&lt;/a&gt; gauge if you can.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;filament chemistry&lt;/strong&gt;: that is not only to say that certain plastics, like PLA, stick better than others, but also to say that certain brands work better than others (as the additives each manufacturer adds to the plastic influence how the strength of the interface with glass).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;printer settings&lt;/strong&gt;: typically a slow speed, no active cooling and a bit of overextrusion work best.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;area of the interface&lt;/strong&gt;: the larger the area of the interface, the better.  But also: for large &lt;em&gt;uninterrupted&lt;/em&gt; interfaces, problems with curling begin to appear. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;temperature&lt;/strong&gt;: each filament has it's own sweet spot, but typically some heat make prints stick better.  However this is true until the print is in progress, once the print is done and the printing bed cools, prints tend to separate by themselves, so in your case you may want to print with a cold bed (which is totally feasible with PLA).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All that said, this would not be a complete answer without a strong warning: any functional part which integrity depends on this kind of adhesion is bound to catastrophically fail very quickly, if working at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For one this &quot;assembly&quot; would be extremely susceptible to change in temperature.  While I read too of broken glass due to too good bonding, I only recall this having happened to people using some sort of substance on the glass.  Usually the differential in shrinkage is exactly what makes the print come off the glass (a common tip for stuck prints is to put them in a freezer).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Secondly, as soon as some air (or other fluid) will begin seeping between glass and plastic, it will take very little for it to separate the two completely.  It's a bit like using a crowbar: as soon as there is a crack you can stick the tip in and use for leverage, it is very easy to pry things open.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, be aware that managing to print watertight shapes with FDM printers is relatively difficult.  You can help your luck by extruding at slightly higher temperature than required.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's difficult to advise on alternatives solutions without knowing what you are trying to achieve, but I would be very surprised if there was not a better alternative. :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: the &quot;nozzle too close to the bed&quot; is the wrong way to achieve what you factually achieve with setting the flow rate so as to overextrude during the first layer: you want to increase the pressure of the molten plastic beyond what you normally would do so as to really &quot;squish&quot; it on the glass.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9134" LastEditorUserId="9134" LastEditDate="2018-01-14T13:17:57.453" LastActivityDate="2018-01-14T13:17:57.453" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5282" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5279" CreationDate="2018-01-14T13:59:18.557" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;After testing my z-min endstop pins, I found out that I could trigger the probe manually by using a jumper wire between Signal and Ground. I then used a NPN MOSFET to connect the sensor to the endstop by connecting the black wire of the probe to the base, the signal wire of the endstop pins to the collector, and the blue wire from the probe and the ground pin of the endstop connector to the emitter of my MOSFET. Note that my mosfet is a TIP120.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6938" LastActivityDate="2018-01-14T13:59:18.557" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5283" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-01-14T21:37:06.237" Score="4" ViewCount="1880" Body="&lt;p&gt;Today I finished building and adjusting a Prusa-Clone printer. The brain is a 32-bit board with Smoothieware on in. To run the auto bed leveling routine I installed a 3DTouch (BLTouch clone, sorry low on cash).&#xA;After many headaches, I got everything working fine and I'm happy with the result. Except for one thing...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the 3DTouch is probing, it is triggered when the nozzle is about 1 mm from the bed. If I set the probe higher, the nozzle crashes onto the bed. If I set the probe lower, the probe would be on the same level of the nozzle, not so good for print time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyone with similar experience or how to sole it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8274" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2022-04-16T14:11:56.933" LastActivityDate="2022-04-17T15:44:38.123" Title="3DTouch triggers way too close" Tags="|heated-bed|calibration|z-probe|3dtouch|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5284" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-01-15T00:25:03.230" Score="3" ViewCount="15024" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently got my first 3D printer, however when I print taller objects, sometimes the piece pops off the build plate and moves around before the print is finished, the piece then is missing the top few layers and is burnt from the nozzle, Just wondering why this happens and how to fix it...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are some pictures:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZRFLp.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZRFLp.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/81LY5.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/81LY5.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9656" LastEditorUserId="9656" LastEditDate="2018-01-15T03:34:27.587" LastActivityDate="2018-01-16T00:53:06.700" Title="3d Print pops off before complete" Tags="|adhesion|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5285" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5286" CreationDate="2018-01-15T05:50:11.280" Score="4" ViewCount="1487" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm attempting to model and print a globe.  The semi-circular arm that holds the globe has an outer diameter of 98mm and inner diameter of 92mm, so the arm is fairly thin.  The arm has a small hole on either end that fits around a protrusion at each pole of the globe to hold it in place.  The hole extends into the arm only a few millimeters, so it doesn't go all the way through.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I printed the arm in ABS and it ended up being a bit too flexible to hold the globe securely.  Obviously I could do things like making the arm thicker or extending the globe's protrusions all the way through the arm, but I'd prefer not to if I don't have to (you know, artistic integrity or whatever).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would printing in PLA result in a more rigid part?  I've tried to do some googling on this, but couldn't really find a definitive answer.  Most comparisons focus on strength which I assume doesn't necessarily correlate to flexibility.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd also welcome any other suggestions for making the part more rigid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9659" LastActivityDate="2019-06-27T09:55:00.993" Title="Increasing rigidity of curved, long, thin parts" Tags="|pla|abs|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5286" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5285" CreationDate="2018-01-15T07:01:31.830" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The flexibility of 3d plastics has a lot to do with the additives manufacturers use&lt;/strong&gt;.  The same base material with additive X may have very different properties than the one with additive Y.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, &lt;strong&gt;generally speaking PLA is known to be more rigid&lt;/strong&gt; (and brittle) than ABS, but less strong.  So: you have a fair chance at giving it a go with PLA, albeit you my end up with a more delicate object in the end.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a well &lt;a href=&quot;https://m.youtube.com/user/ThomasSanladerer&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;known youtube channel&lt;/a&gt;, whose author has performed a lot of &lt;a href=&quot;https://m.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLDJMid0lOOYl8TZJV9xHznKFq5yA5ZTi2&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;quasi-scientific testing&lt;/a&gt; on common brands of filament (PLA and not) where you can get an idea of the relative rigidity of the filaments.  You can find the table with the results &lt;a href=&quot;https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1j9QazgoocuzHxg6qUXevq3dpAmmT2E87089FX6gRgWU/htmlview&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; (look for the &quot;bend test&quot; columns).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However the very firs thing that came to mind when reading your post, is that you could simply &lt;strong&gt;swap pins and holes&lt;/strong&gt; by putting the holding pins on the arm, and the holes on the globe instead.  This would allow you to preserve your design &lt;em&gt;and&lt;/em&gt; to have longer pins.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Things you could try when it comes to printing (unless you are already doing them):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Print the arm flat&lt;/strong&gt; so that the layers stretch from pole to pole uninterrupted.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Print with near solid infill&lt;/strong&gt; (solid infill can be problematic if your extrusion calibration is not perfect), like 95% &lt;strong&gt;and cubic infill&lt;/strong&gt; (for more uniform properties along the full length of the axis.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, &lt;strong&gt;you could &lt;a href=&quot;https://hackaday.com/2017/06/17/annealing-plastic-for-stronger-prints/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;try to anneal&lt;/a&gt; the arm&lt;/strong&gt; in your kitchen oven.  This process works by warming the part until it becomes pliable and then letting it cool very slowly.  The end result is that the molecules arrange themselves in a more &quot;crystal-like&quot; way and the part becomes stronger and more rigid.  &lt;strong&gt;Beware that annealing changes your part dimensions&lt;/strong&gt; so you should definitively do some experiments with a test cube and find out the direction and percentage of the shrinking before going &quot;all out&quot; on the arm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9134" LastActivityDate="2018-01-15T07:01:31.830" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5287" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5284" CreationDate="2018-01-15T07:45:54.233" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The issue you are having is with bed adhesion.  Basically your print is not sticking well enough to the printer bed for it to resist the mechanical forces the part is being subject to during print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This the most common issue in FDM 3D printing and you can find a lot of material online on how to mitigate the problem.  Just as a &quot;teaser&quot;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You need to ensure your &lt;strong&gt;printing bed is dead flat and at the right distance&lt;/strong&gt; from your nozzle.  Search online for: &quot;3D printer bed leveling&quot;: the procedure is normally &lt;a href=&quot;https://pinshape.com/blog/6-simple-steps-to-3d-printer-bed-leveling/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;the same for most printers&lt;/a&gt;, but if your model is a common one, chances are you will find a video/how-to/blog post for it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You should use &lt;strong&gt;print settings that facilitate bonding&lt;/strong&gt; of the plastic to the bed (typically: slow speed, no cooling fan, a bit of overextrusion...)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You can tell the slicer to &lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://rigid.ink/blogs/news/3d-printed-raft-brim-skirt&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;add a &lt;em&gt;brim&lt;/em&gt; or a &lt;em&gt;raft&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; to your part, to increase the amount of material holding down the print.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You have the option to &lt;strong&gt;cover your printing bed with some material that increases the bonding&lt;/strong&gt; of the plastic (this is type-of-plastic specific but typically: PVA glue or painter's tape work well for PLA, and kapton tape or ABS sludge for ABS).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;If you have a heated bed, use it&lt;/strong&gt; (each filament brand has their own recommendations, but typically 50-60°C works well for PLA).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for &lt;em&gt;why&lt;/em&gt; your problem is happening towards the end of the print, there are a series of factors contributing to it:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The tallest the print, the more mechanical advantage&lt;/strong&gt; (leverage) the nozzle has over the adhesion surface.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;It looks like your top layers are progressively small, so they print very fast and this in turn the does not allow for the plastic to completely cool down&lt;/strong&gt; before going to the following layer, so when the nozzle prints on top of it the still-warm layer is &quot;pulled up&quot; by the action of the nozzle, creates a blob that sticks to the nozzle and that only makes situation worse.  Snowball effect.  Most slicers have an option &quot;minimum layer time&quot; that delays the print of a layer until X seconds have passed from the start of the previous one.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;It may be possible that the Z axis is inaccurate and the nozzle catches on a previous layer&lt;/strong&gt;.  Most printer have some kind of accuracy issue with the Z axis the furthest up the head is, especially if the Z-axis has only one threaded rod (as for example in the Creality CR-10).  Another source of inaccuracy (see comments below) could be the movement multiplier for the Z being slightly off, causing the nozzle to dig into the print if there's overextrusion and enough cumulative error.  Z axis inaccuracies are however unlikely to be the primary source of troubles for you, but it's a &quot;nice to know&quot; thing to know about 3D FDM printers, nevertheless.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9134" LastEditorUserId="9134" LastEditDate="2018-01-16T00:53:06.700" LastActivityDate="2018-01-16T00:53:06.700" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5288" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-01-15T21:59:36.437" Score="2" ViewCount="480" Body="&lt;p&gt;Brand new to 3D printing and have an Ultimaker Original + using PLA (2.85mm).&#xA;The nozzle/extruder temperature is 200C and the bed/plate is 60C.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I installed the Cura software on my Windows 10 box. I then head on over to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.tinkercad.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;tinkercad.com&lt;/a&gt; to make a model of a comb. I then exported my .STL file and loaded it up in Cura. I hit the print button. I waited a bit, but noticed that my print was getting lumps in it. Not crazy drastic lumps, but because the object was small, gaps (between the comb teeth) were being filled... not all of them, just some. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried adjusting the flow rate from 100% to 90% and it seemed a little better (not perfect, still filling gaps), but when I dropped it lower, it got worse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also tried to lower the print speed from the default of 60mm/s to 50mm/s - no change. (travel speed at 120mm/s)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried to adjust the bed height multiple times, trying to make sure that it was 100% flat at 180 degrees.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is wrong here? Is the printer over extruding? Is the temperature too high? Is the flow rate wrong? Am I missing something else?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check out my prints:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xo1FX.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xo1FX.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vbyPs.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vbyPs.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/M3BB2.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/M3BB2.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also tried printing something else:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ODYQ9.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ODYQ9.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any help would be really appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Okay, so thanks to macs answer, I took another look at the nozzle and noticed a massive leak - I actually dismissed this earlier as &quot;glue&quot; - OMG.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyways, here is the picture of the leakage:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OyXhg.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OyXhg.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's very bad. It leaks down and runs over the nozzle. The nozzle also leaks... Is that normal? All I did was turn the printer on, heat up the nozzle to 200C and it started to leak. I suspect that it should not do this... I'm not ready to change the nozzle just yet - I've no idea which one to buy or even where to buy it from (I'm in the UK), so I'd like to get this one working (if possible).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On another note, I have checked the filament settings - All good. Heat settings all good too:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XJAKK.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XJAKK.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9664" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2019-08-31T08:19:13.690" LastActivityDate="2019-08-31T08:19:13.690" Title="Ultimaker Original+: print has lumps and small gaps are being filled" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|extrusion|ultimaker-original|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5289" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5271" CreationDate="2018-01-16T00:34:30.600" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;So, low-teck, old-style investigative work from my side.... I contacted &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.filright.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;a company&lt;/a&gt; selling HDPLA and they got back to me with the following reply.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;We created HDPLA as an industrial PLA with special additives. As a result, our so called HDPLA has the advantages of ABS, but prints as easy as regular PLA.  HDPLA has high impact, high strength and high heat deflection temperature (hdt). You can also print at high speed (max 140mm/s inhouse tests).  HDPLA has is own high strength, but is even more strong after annealing.  A heated bed is not necessary (50-60˚C recommended), and you can print with HDPLA with a 3D printer with open structure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is strikingly similar to the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.3dprima.com/filaments/primaselect-pla-pro-1-75mm-750-g-black/a-22432/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;description of what 3Dprima calls &quot;Prima SELECT PRO&quot;&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;PrimaSelect™ PLA PRO ist the next generation of high performance PLA for demanding industrial applications. Designed to be able to print fast &gt;120mm/s so you can save on production time. Very high heat resistance (95°C+) after annealing. Excellent mechanical properties combined with a matte surface finish that helps concealing the printed layers for optimum appearance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While writing this answer I also found &lt;a href=&quot;http://fiberlogy.com/en/fiberlogy-filaments/filament-hd-pla/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;a page&lt;/a&gt; that escaped my googling until now, sating an additional property of &quot;their&quot; HDPLA: food safety.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;With our HD PLA you have many more options. You can use this material in two ways. Choose the one you like best. You can use it as a normal PLA and get prints characterized by a very good adhesion between the layers and high precision. You can also make your prints acquire similar properties to that of ABS – better impact resistance and high temperature resistance. All you need is an oven. Yes, an oven! By annealing our HD PLA in an oven, in accordance with the manual, you will avoid all the inconveniences of printing with ABS, such as unpleasant odour or hazardous fumes. But these are not all the advantages of HD PLA. For the production of this material we have chosen raw materials that are approved for food contact in compliance with the EU directive and FDA regulations. HD PLA is also certified by RoHS.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, it looks like HDPLA is not the shorthand of a polymer molecule, but rather &lt;strong&gt;a trade word indicating that the base PLA has been mixed with additives&lt;/strong&gt;.  Furthermore, the answer I got via mail seems to indicate that &lt;strong&gt;&quot;HD&quot; refers to the high &lt;em&gt;Heat Deflection&lt;/em&gt; temperature&lt;/strong&gt; of the filament (the &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Heat_deflection_temperature&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;heat deflection temperature&lt;/a&gt; is the temperature at which a polymer or plastic sample deforms under a specified load).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9134" LastActivityDate="2018-01-16T00:34:30.600" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5290" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5285" CreationDate="2018-01-16T02:54:32.077" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;To make it more rigid I would add more shells than to use solid infill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are higher strength PLA's, but they only gain their higher strength and temperature resistance after annealing. From reviews I've seen, there is only a percent or two difference in size, but this is more complex than it seems because the difference is different along the layer lines or crosswise from them. However, even normal PLA will anneal, so if you have any you could do some quick experiments.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have a high-strength nozzle, you could use NylonX. This is nylon with carbon fiber to make the part rigid. There are also carbon fiber PLA's ad ABS's, but I've never experimented with them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Otherwise, I like the answer from @mac&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9512" LastActivityDate="2018-01-16T02:54:32.077" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5292" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5369" CreationDate="2018-01-16T14:39:45.943" Score="7" ViewCount="428" Body="&lt;p&gt;At first few layers, each layer has offset to -X/-Y direction base on previous layer. But above ~2mm, it is vertical.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've checked the printer build that there is no noticeable error in towers. Tried both manual calibration and Marlin auto calibration &lt;code&gt;G33&lt;/code&gt; with z probe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No idea what's the cause and don't know which part I need to check with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/X8HBm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/X8HBm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/neigB.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/neigB.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="162" LastActivityDate="2018-02-28T15:08:45.467" Title="Delta printer misalignment at first few layers" Tags="|delta|kossel|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5293" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5288" CreationDate="2018-01-17T00:11:39.760" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;What is wrong here? Is the printer over extruding? Is the temperature too high? Is the flow rate wrong? Am I missing something else?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is always difficult to diagnose problems from a set of pictures only, and without the original model to compare it with, but yes, from the pictures it looks like your printer has a severe case of over extrusion, possibly in conjunction with a thermal problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first picture in the set is particularly interesting for a number of reasons:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The chequered pattern of the top layer looks like being generated by the nozzle &quot;digging&quot; in the layers below and rising the plastic around it&lt;/strong&gt;.  A well calibrater printer should have a top surface with a very subtle texture instead.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7DGhL.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7DGhL.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The teeth of the comb and the gap between them are inconsistent&lt;/strong&gt;, as are the shape of the tip of the teeth.  This let me think your printer actually doesn't operate consistently, over-extruding in some places a lot more than in others.  A pinter should be able to accurately replicate its performance along the full length of the comb instead.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hUVEu.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hUVEu.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The plastic has a different finish and colour in different places&lt;/strong&gt;.  Namely, it looks burnt and glossy where the worse print quality is, white and matte where the problems are not so bad.  Both the colour and the finish let me thing the plastic in the dark spots have been heated way over its operational range and/or for too long.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In essence what I think it is happening (mind it: this is just a theory) is that &lt;strong&gt;your printer is over-extruding and in addition your hot end may have issues with keeping its own temperature constant and within the designed limit&lt;/strong&gt;.  Other factors that may also play a role could be:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Wrong settings in the slicer&lt;/strong&gt; as for example a nozzle diameter set to 0.5 mm when it really is 0.4 mm instead, or the filament diameter being wrong.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Blobs of over-extruded material&lt;/strong&gt; forming and sticking to the nozzle, where they take too much heat for too long and burn before &quot;falling&quot; in the print and damaging it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Filament that is old/of bad quality&lt;/strong&gt; and that has impurities in it, or has an inconsistent diameter along its length (thus causing over-extrusion in places, but not in other).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;A nozzle that is not well fixed to the heating block&lt;/strong&gt;, thus allowing molten plastic to seep out from the joint and run down on the outside of the nozzle and ultimately on the print itself.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;A nozzle that got damaged&lt;/strong&gt; and whose opening is not circular and/or not matching its nominal diameter.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The extruder hobbed gear not e&quot;biting&quot; in the filament&lt;/strong&gt; and thus the filament slipping at times, thus being inconsistent in the quality of material being extruded.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, here's the the trouble-shooting I would go through at this stage:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Check your printer setting in the slicer&lt;/strong&gt;.  Doh! :)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Take a close look at how the print works while in operation&lt;/strong&gt;.  Do you see blobs forming and sticking to the nozzle?  Plastic seeping out from places it shouldn't?  Is the nozzle round and true?  In case of doubts, just change the nozzle with a new one (it is a less-than-1€ part anyways), easily outspent by the cost of filament in a failed print.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Calibrate you extrusion&lt;/strong&gt; (and thus your flow-rate) by performing accurate measurements over at least 3 length of filament.  &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.matterhackers.com/articles/how-to-calibrate-your-extruder&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Matterhackers has a nice how-to&lt;/a&gt; that you can follow for this.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Manually check the diameter of your filament&lt;/strong&gt; (at least 5 measurements at at lest 200 mm distance between them) and adjust the corresponding &quot;filament diameter&quot; setting.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Calibrate your temperature&lt;/strong&gt; by using a test tower.  &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1298948&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;This one&lt;/a&gt; has extensive instructions on how to use it in the thing description, plus is customizable directly from thingiverse.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Print again your model and see how/if your changes affected the print quality in any way&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the above fails, you could also try to use another slicer, but it's unlikely the problem is with the software.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;UPDATE&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not familiar with your printer model, but the updated pictures seems to show the leakage happening between the heat block and the heat break, rather than between nozzle and &quot;whatever&quot;. ;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This can actually be caused by two different problems (or the two of them compounding).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The two parts, which are normally just screwed together have come loose.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If your extruder is not &quot;all metal&quot; (which is normally not the case in most printer), the PTFE tube (the whitish plastic tube the filament slides into) may have dislodged upwards, so instead of being a tight fit in the heat block, it leaves room for the molten filament to seep upwards.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In both cases, a reassembly and thorough clean-up of the head is in order.  I would suggest trying to find specific documentation for your printer online, but the general process is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;warm up the head to printing temperature.  All subsequent steps will have to be done at this temperature (wearing protective gloves is highly  recommended)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;remove the filament&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;remove the PTFE tube&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;remove the nozzle&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;remove the the heating block from the heat break&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;wipe as much the plastic as possible (bit drills work well for the hole in the heat block&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;increase the temp a further 20-30 degrees&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;reassemble everything&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;profit&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please note:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the heat break is relatively fragile: be gentle when unscrewing.  When removing/attaching the nozzle is worth keeping the heat block in place with a spanner to prevent twisting the heat break&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;if you can't remove the plastic when molted, you can try letting it cool and scrape it&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;it essential that the re-assembly be done while hot.  Metal expands with heat, so what feels firm while cold will eventually become loose at high temperature&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9134" LastEditorUserId="9134" LastEditDate="2018-01-21T13:03:52.980" LastActivityDate="2018-01-21T13:03:52.980" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5294" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5302" CreationDate="2018-01-17T07:15:53.417" Score="1" ViewCount="2526" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I am trying to get the XSD-Schema from this object. When I open the File I just get something like this code (snippet):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;¸†2¡Q·2ºyƒeCã2ï…w ïÀ|¼ðAøä[0Ÿ |&amp;gt;‚|ó‘å2²ºFƒ¼Æò1ùàåcj@Þ`ùÐ¸Ì{áÈ;0/|¾ &#xA; ùÌ'Ÿ„ Á|d½¬¬¯Õ ¯±|l¾…­Œo@Þ`ùÐ¸Ì{áÈ;0/|¾ùÌ'Ÿ„ Á|d½œ¬¯Ó ¯±|h\æ­Œo@Þ`ù¸|&#xA; ßBs¦5–Œ~ôè»­£(™c´“Ç£[yp1:æ'Ã‰c4Jó Uâ˜ÍÇ&amp;lt;h—8^'Ð¯É&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is this? How can I convert it back? I need to edit the structure manually.&#xA;&lt;br&gt;Thank you in advance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6843" LastEditorUserId="6843" LastEditDate="2018-01-17T11:36:17.633" LastActivityDate="2018-01-18T06:53:07.613" Title="How can I read this 3mf-File" Tags="|3d-models|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5295" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5246" CreationDate="2018-01-17T10:28:39.727" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found two issues:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;While cutting the cables to size, I made the cable for the z-axis too short.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In Cura the y height reset to 100mm rather than the 240mm I had earlier specified.  I assume the G-code I used was sliced with the wrong settings.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9614" LastEditorUserId="9134" LastEditDate="2018-01-30T22:08:38.497" LastActivityDate="2018-01-30T22:08:38.497" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5296" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-01-17T12:35:07.907" Score="2" ViewCount="95" Body="&lt;p&gt;I switched to a Raspberry Pi 3 to use with (Linux) Pronterface for my 3D printer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This Pi 3 has a 3.5&quot; 320x480 LCD display. When Pronterface is loaded, only part of its window can be seen and some of the UI elements are unreachable. I have the Pronterface source code from GitHub. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Where do I start to shrink the app window?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9679" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2018-08-17T18:02:18.513" LastActivityDate="2018-08-17T18:04:08.917" Title="Pronterface window question" Tags="|diy-3d-printer|firmware|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5297" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5300" CreationDate="2018-01-17T16:30:23.570" Score="2" ViewCount="711" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an odd-shaped object (I'll call it &quot;A&quot;) that I have imported into a TinkerCAD drawing. Its dimensions do not align to any specific size, and therefore I can't really use the grid lock to help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I need to get some other objects (called &quot;B+&quot;) a specific and precise distance from the outside edge of &quot;A&quot;. I was trying to get the ruler to lock to the edge of &quot;A&quot;, but I can only get close.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a way to do this so that I can get &quot;B&quot; perfectly positioned from the edge of &quot;A&quot;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9682" LastActivityDate="2018-01-17T19:40:44.590" Title="TinkerCAD Align to Odd Shaped Object" Tags="|3d-design|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5298" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5294" CreationDate="2018-01-17T17:59:59.110" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Seems to be your are trying to edit a file with the wrong file editor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have Microsoft® Windows® 8.1, you can print directly using the 3MF format included. Simply set the print options in the 3D Print PropertyManager and print to the 3D printer. A preview of the print bed and the model's location within the print bed lets you modify settings before committing to a 3D print job.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To access the 3D print dialog box and specify print options, click File &gt; 3DPrint.  The print dialog box that is available depends on your installed 3D print driver.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you need to get the STL you may need to use a file conversion, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6MVeFiCN7bA&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; is a youtube tutorial to makeprintable&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4454" LastActivityDate="2018-01-17T17:59:59.110" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5299" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4959" CreationDate="2018-01-17T19:25:23.487" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Adjusting the design may also be able to help limit the amount of warping you get.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of the major causes of warping is upper layers contracting while cooling when laid down over now-cool(er) lower layers which no longer contract so much but are still thin enough to flex when subject to tension along their upper edge. Insertion of strategically placed gaps in upper layers can reduce the tension such layers are able to apply.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was printing some long thin beams in ABS. I inserted horizontal-axis holes along the beams (making them look a bit like &lt;a href=&quot;https://assets.madaboutbricks.uk/wp-content/uploads/2014/03/23161640/Lego-40490-Black-Technic-Beam-9_2.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;LEGO Technic&lt;/a&gt; beams rather than solid pieces). It did the job for me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5747" LastActivityDate="2018-01-17T19:25:23.487" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5300" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5297" CreationDate="2018-01-17T19:40:44.590" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Consider to construct an object of any suitable shape that will properly align with the edge of &quot;A.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The attached image is certainly an odd-shaped object (from a previous test project).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Xx97O.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Xx97O.png&quot; alt=&quot;odd shaped object&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Add a regular/symmetrical object such as a cube and size it appropriately for your purpose. It would not have to be a cube, although such a shape provides for convenient alignment in this case:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eZhfH.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eZhfH.png&quot; alt=&quot;convenient symmetrical object added&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Use the alignment tools feature in Tinkercad to align the desired edge(s). In this case, alignment is common right side, centered top to bottom.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bY1D2.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bY1D2.png&quot; alt=&quot;unaligned image&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After clicking on the alignment button, lower right corner:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hYNs9.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hYNs9.png&quot; alt=&quot;aligned image&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Group the two objects using the Group feature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I created a sample alignment reference in this image and placed it in contact with the group.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WMdPJ.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WMdPJ.png&quot; alt=&quot;second alignment item&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Move the group or reference item the desired distance:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hZH2c.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hZH2c.png&quot; alt=&quot;moved object&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Select the group and ungroup it.&#xA;Select the initial alignment item and delete it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/x1llT.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/x1llT.png&quot; alt=&quot;delete this object&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Objective completed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EbYZH.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EbYZH.png&quot; alt=&quot;exercise completed&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastActivityDate="2018-01-17T19:40:44.590" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5301" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5131" CreationDate="2018-01-18T02:00:12.720" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;https://all3dp.com/1/remove-3d-print-from-bed-stuck-glass/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;all3dp article you linked&lt;/a&gt; to is very comprehensive and shows what are the &quot;approaches&quot; to print removal, rather than just the tools.  For the sake of keeping all info accessible here, the article highlight these 6 approaches:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Brute force&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wedge the joint apart&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Thermal difference&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Chemical reaction&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mechanical cut&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bed warping&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To that list I would add a final class of solutions that I would call &quot;sacrificial surface&quot;: use some removable substrate like painter's tape and remove that from the bed rather than the print from it.  Once the print+surface is off the printer than is normally very easy to scrape or sand the material off the print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9134" LastActivityDate="2018-01-18T02:00:12.720" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5302" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5294" CreationDate="2018-01-18T03:18:54.943" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Three likely culprit:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The file is compressed but your machine can't detect it&lt;/strong&gt;.  So for example the 3MF model has been zipped, and what you are trying to do is opening the zip archive in the text editor, rather than the file that is in the zip archive.  Solution: try to see if common decompress utilities like zip, gzip, 7z can open the file.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The file is a 3MF model but the &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Character_encoding&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;character encoding&lt;/a&gt; in the file being different than the one your editor is expecting&lt;/strong&gt; (typically &lt;code&gt;Unicode/UTF-8&lt;/code&gt;, these days).  Solution: read on the rest of this answer.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The file is a binary one that is totally unrelated to 3MF&lt;/strong&gt;.  So in essence: an error, you are trying to open maybe an MP3 or a JPG file believing it to be a 3MF instead.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for the &quot;wrong encoding&quot; option...  Oversimplifying a bit, the story goes like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;computers write data to files in bytes,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a byte can only be set to one of its 256 possible values,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;in the early days of computing, when computers were just glorified calculators, it was enough to have a 1:1 ratio between the byte possible values and the symbols one wanted to use, so &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.asciitable.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;ASCII&lt;/a&gt; was born (actually ASCII only &quot;mapped&quot; the first 127 values of the byte, but that is a detail).  So: value #49 would represent a &lt;code&gt;1&lt;/code&gt;, value #90 a &lt;code&gt;Z&lt;/code&gt; and so on...&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;shortly afterwards, computers became powerful enough that people wanted to use them to process human languages, so the need for more characters (like accented ones &lt;code&gt;åáä&lt;/code&gt; or the ones from non-latin alphabets like Cyrillic &lt;code&gt;язы́к&lt;/code&gt; or arabic &lt;code&gt;عَرَبِيّ‎&lt;/code&gt;, or...) came to be and engineers speaking different languages had the &quot;brilliant&quot; idea to each use the other 127 &quot;free slots&quot; in a byte for their favourite languages, thus a plethora of &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Extended_ASCII&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;extended ASCII&lt;/a&gt; encodings was born, &lt;strong&gt;each using the same byte value, but each mapping to a different symbol&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;later on, people began to realise the need to combine the use of say Gaelic, English, Japanese and Farsi with mathematical symbols, and thus they came up to way to map symbols to values expressed as the product of more bytes (so for example: 2 bytes encoding could map 256x256=65536 symbols).  Again: each system using the same values but different symbols.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;finally after decades of frustrated users and expensive bugs, engineers around the world settled for a multi-byte &lt;strong&gt;standard that has 1,114,112 possible values that could contain all characters one can possibly need&lt;/strong&gt;, and &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Unicode&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Unicode&lt;/a&gt; was born.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Back to your question: despite unicode having been around for a few decades now, legacy software and sloppy programming are a thing, and there are still systems that do not use unicode internally but some legacy &quot;special purpose&quot; encoding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately, it is &lt;a href=&quot;https://softwareengineering.stackexchange.com/a/187174/29074&quot;&gt;impossible to say with certainty how a file was encoded&lt;/a&gt;, so &lt;strong&gt;occasionally you may find yourself opening a file and starting decoding it according to a &quot;conversion table&quot; that is not the one used by the author of the file itself&lt;/strong&gt;.  This is what it looks like is happening to you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Onward to what you can try to do to fix this...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First of all: as attentive readers may have already inferred, &lt;strong&gt;you will need the actual file&lt;/strong&gt; for this.  In fact if you cut-and-paste its &quot;content&quot; from an editor what you are really doing is cutting-and-pasting the &lt;em&gt;decoding&lt;/em&gt; your computer did of the byte values, and not the byte values themselves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then your best bets are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Try one of the online detectors&lt;/strong&gt; like &lt;a href=&quot;https://nlp.fi.muni.cz/projects/chared/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this one&lt;/a&gt;, using &quot;English&quot; as a language.  These detectors work by trying all the decoders they know of until the decoded file will have English (or another language of your choice) words in it.  This may not work for you as a 3MF file is mostly numbers, not text, but it is worth a shot.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Guesstimate what encoder may have been used&lt;/strong&gt;.  For example: if you got the file from an old windowsXP machine from Eastern Europe, chances are it may have been encoded with &quot;windows-1251&quot;.  Use an &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.motobit.com/util/charset-codepage-conversion.asp&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;online converter&lt;/a&gt; to see if you were right about it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Use brute force&lt;/strong&gt;.  For this you will require to write a simple programme or ask somebody to do it for you, but the key idea here is to have a script taking your original file and decoding it using all encoders in that programming language knows of.  Then it will be up to you to open each decoded file individually and verify if it worked or not.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9134" LastEditorUserId="9134" LastEditDate="2018-01-18T06:53:07.613" LastActivityDate="2018-01-18T06:53:07.613" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5304" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5305" CreationDate="2018-01-18T17:34:36.383" Score="4" ViewCount="931" Body="&lt;p&gt;As long as there's a MOSFET in between, can I supply 24&amp;nbsp;V bed/extruder heat from an ATX power supply using -12&amp;nbsp;V and +12&amp;nbsp;V and ignoring the common rail?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I assume so, I can't think of a reason why not, but want to check.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9411" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-07-26T20:12:44.173" LastActivityDate="2018-07-26T20:12:44.173" Title="24 V heated bed from -12 V and +12 V ATX power supply?" Tags="|heated-bed|switching-power-supply|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5305" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5304" CreationDate="2018-01-18T21:38:09.720" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, this is not possible with most ATX power supplies. While in principle you can get a 24V supply by combining the +12V and -12V supplies, the rails are not symmetric, and the negative 12V supply is usually designed for a much lower load than the positive supply. In the example in the following picture, there are two positive 12V rails, capable of sourcing respectively 12A and 15A each, but the -12V rail is only good for sinking 0.5A. If you tried doing what you're proposing, using this supply, you'd be limited to only 0.5A from your &quot;24V&quot; supply.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CkRKr.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CkRKr.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;ATX Power Supply Label, with 15+12=27A rating for the 12V rails, but only a 0.5A rating for the -12V rail&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is very unlikely that you'll find an ATX power supply with a negative 12V rail capable of sinking significant current since computers don't need such large amounts of current from their negative supplies.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are also issues with using a MOSFET as you describe. I assume that by MOSFET you are referring to a complete board with various support components, and not just a bare MOSFET by itself. Usually these boards have optocouplers and thus they will probably work correctly, but using just a MOSFET by itself this would not work, as the gate needs to be driven below GND (namely: to below -12V plus the gate threshold) to turn the MOSFET off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastActivityDate="2018-01-18T21:38:09.720" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5306" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5018" CreationDate="2018-01-19T16:01:15.797" Score="1" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You may set the temp in Repetier but when you run the gcode it will send any of the temp settings in the file. So you may set 210&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C first but if 200&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C is in the G-code the printer will take that (as the gcode is sent one instruction at a time). However I also noticed that after the automatic bed leveling any manual settings on the printer are reset to the G-code (I assume the file is re-stating the temp after bed leveling) So I have to override the file temp after the bed leveling is complete.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I now use OctoPrint and it has a cool feature : temp offsetting, you can specify an offset for every temperature the OctoPrint server sends to printer; e.g. in your file it is set to bed: 110&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C and extruder: 230&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C you can tell OctoPrint to take 20&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C off all bed temps sent and 45&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C off any extruder tempperatures sent. It's great for tweaking the temperatures of your G-code without editing or re slicing, just change the temperature offset and reprint.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I noticed on a previous firmware version for the I3 mk2s Repetier did not connect properly to the printer this problem disappeared in the latest Prusa firmware (v3.1).  One of the symptoms I noticed was the temperature settings were not taken by the printer.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Some slicers have a setting to have sticky parameters, i.e. set temperature once don't bother re-sending. However if this was turned off, it is possible that the generated G-code repeatedly send the temperature settings with every instruction, continuously resetting and overriding these values. (OctoPrint temperature offsets would correct this)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9697" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-06-20T14:12:08.017" LastActivityDate="2019-06-20T14:12:08.017" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5307" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5247" CreationDate="2018-01-20T06:12:06.990" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The maximum size is 32 GB, however using microSD has a little disadvantage:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The microSD adapter and Micro memory are wrong assembled and the chip are unable to be read.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Solution: stick with a tape adhesive to keep Micro memory and SD adapter well aligned&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The SD adapter can't be read on the 3D printer&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Solution: Add an extra tape adhesive over the SD adapter just like sticker, to make tight the assembly inside the reader.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Clean the contacts of the SD adapter, normally has the same issue like nintendo cartridge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I´m planning to get a bunch of SD cards instead microSD's, none of SD 8 GB and 16 GB are failing due wrong contact assembly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4454" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:29:41.667" LastActivityDate="2018-07-11T13:14:33.070" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5308" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5330" CreationDate="2018-01-20T06:40:23.790" Score="4" ViewCount="4490" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been searching around the internet for the last 3 days trying to figure this out. My Z axis motors for a pursa-i3 3d printer are not working correctly. I have marlin firmware and using repetier host. I send a command to move the z axis and I get it to move, however I if I send the same command again the motors will sometimes spin the other way. feel like They almost randomly choose which direction they turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As I said I have been trouble shooting this for a while now. What I am suspecting is the firmware feedrates and acceleration or some setting is not correct. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is my code:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;//// MOVEMENT SETTINGS&#xA;#define NUM_AXIS 4 // The axis order in all axis related arrays is X, Y, Z, E&#xA;#define HOMING_FEEDRATE {50*60, 50*60, 2*60, 0}  // set the homing speeds (mm/min)&#xA;&#xA;#define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT   {80,80,4000,590}  &#xA;#define DEFAULT_MAX_FEEDRATE          {300, 300, 3, 45}    // (mm/sec)&#xA;#define DEFAULT_MAX_ACCELERATION      {1000,1000,50,500}    // X, Y, Z, E maximum start speed for accelerated moves. E default values are good for Skeinforge 40+, for older versions raise them a lot.&#xA;&#xA;#define DEFAULT_ACCELERATION          1000    // X, Y, Z and E max acceleration in mm/s^2 for printing moves&#xA;#define DEFAULT_RETRACT_ACCELERATION  1000   // X, Y, Z and E max acceleration in mm/s^2 for retracts&#xA;&#xA;#define DEFAULT_XYJERK                10   // (mm/sec)&#xA;#define DEFAULT_ZJERK                 0.3     // (mm/sec)&#xA;#define DEFAULT_EJERK                 5.0    // (mm/sec)&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried swapping the drivers around and the motors will work perfectly on another axis so I don't suspect it to be a driver issue. I have been turning the pots ontop of the drivers to make them work but can't make them to go the same direction i want them to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've checked the wires and I almost sure they are wired up correctly. (could be wrong but have checked it over with a multimeter.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am new to this and it's my first time building one of these would appreciate any help I can get and and maybe I have over looked something I have tested.&#xA;Just really want the axis to move in the direction That I say it to move in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More details about my setup is: A Robocraze 3D Printer Controller Board RAMPS 1.4 using A4988 stepper motors drivers and my motors are the nema 17 stepper motors. I currently have the two z axis motors wired in parallel but have tried before using series, however the problem of being unable to control the direction of the Z motors still arises (can easily switch back to series). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;currently trying with no load just to get the motors turn in the correct direction when I send a G-code command. I am using Repetier host on ubuntu 14.04.5.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have also check the endstops and they are working perfectly, so they ain't a problem (I don't think :p)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you,&#xA;Bobby&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9699" LastEditorUserId="9699" LastEditDate="2018-01-22T04:05:16.337" LastActivityDate="2018-08-04T23:00:33.810" Title="Z axis Stepper motors not working correctly" Tags="|diy-3d-printer|reprap|ramps-1.4|z-axis|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5309" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3202" CreationDate="2018-01-20T07:12:08.200" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is fundamentally a heat transfer problem. As a large print is being made, it is very thin. Thin things cool off quickly, especially when no new hot material is being placed on top in the meantime. A heated bed will only help for a time, depending on the print size, before it starts to actually contribute to warping due to rapidly cooling upper layers and still- heated lower layers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A hack can be found by improving bed adhesion, but this leaves the underlying problem of thermal stresses intact. Only through better 3D printing thermal properties design or through better object design will the warping problem be solved rather than mitigated. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9700" LastActivityDate="2018-01-20T07:12:08.200" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5311" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5247" CreationDate="2018-01-20T10:00:07.707" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately, the answer isn't as simple as that a specific size of SD card works and another size doesn't. The &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/wiki/SD-cards&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Marlin firmware wiki&lt;/a&gt; mentions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The SD- or MMC- Card must be formatted as FAT and must have a MMC interface. This is more likely with cards &amp;lt;= 2&amp;nbsp;GB.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;MMC is the predecessor of SD. SD cards are &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; necessarily fully backwards compatible with MMC. Apparently, Marlin uses some features specific to MMC, so your card should support it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The SD card support in Marlin is based on the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.arduino.cc/en/Reference/SD&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Arduino SD Card Library&lt;/a&gt;, which further mentions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The library supports FAT16 and FAT32 file systems on standard SD cards and SDHC cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Based on this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Cards should be formatted FAT16 or FAT32.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Cards bigger than 32&amp;nbsp;GB definitely won't work (not SD or SDHC).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Cards at most 2&amp;nbsp;GB will probably work.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Cards between 2&amp;nbsp;GB and 32&amp;nbsp;GB &lt;em&gt;might&lt;/em&gt; work, depending on the specifics of the card.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-07-11T13:17:16.427" LastActivityDate="2018-07-11T13:17:16.427" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5312" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5323" CreationDate="2018-01-20T13:16:53.573" Score="4" ViewCount="692" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've have observed that when the printer is finishing a layer, the flow of plastic through the nozzle starts fading out as it comes closer to the point of layer change.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As an example, let's say that I'm printing the first layer of a cube. The nozzle first prints the perimeters ok. Then it begins to print the inner part, beginning from one corner and finishing on the opposite one. As the nozzle comes closer to the finishing corner, the flow of plastic diminishes, resulting in the lines of the filament to touching each other. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maybe it's not a big deal, but it's annoying because it's stopping the part of having a very nice first layer and finish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My setup is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Anet A6 running Marlin 1.1.8&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bed auto leveling before each print&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Slic3r Prusa Edition, latest release (as of 20 January 2018)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;PETG from Das Filament&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried disabling all &quot;retract&quot; settings but the issue persists.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm beginning to think that this could be a software bug (Slic3r), but before I submit it to GitHub, I'd like to be sure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any opinion is welcome!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8274" LastActivityDate="2022-04-26T22:41:24.563" Title="Nozzle reducing flow as it comes close to finish layer" Tags="|print-quality|marlin|slic3r|pet|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="6" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5313" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5312" CreationDate="2018-01-20T16:49:32.840" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you think it is a slicing problem, look at the G-code. You might want to arrange for the infill to be orthogonal to the axes, but it ought to be easy enough to calculate the ratio between printhead motion and the extruder. G-code is just text, and fairly easy to make sense of. The &lt;a href=&quot;http://reprap.org/wiki/G-code&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;RepRap&lt;/a&gt; wiki has a good reference to the commands, and all you care about are X-Y movement, and E movement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An alternative explanation might be that your extruder is struggling with the extrusion rate, and after continuous extrusion is failing to heat the filament fast enough to melt. The layer change could be providing a sufficient respite that walls start off OK on the next layer. Also check (in the G-code) that the speed of walls and infill is the same.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4927" LastEditorUserId="4927" LastEditDate="2018-01-24T08:12:59.620" LastActivityDate="2018-01-24T08:12:59.620" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5314" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-01-20T21:42:23.480" Score="1" ViewCount="288" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have got a Lulzbot TAZ6 3 days ago. Last night I started a print which is 21 hours long and when I returned check on it this afternoon it was a complete mess.&#xA;These are the objects that I wanted to print:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5pvix.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5pvix.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I used Cura LUlzbot edition for printing this, the settings I have opted are:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KRe8g.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KRe8g.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1ROGP.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1ROGP.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vhDIt.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vhDIt.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I need to print them with 100% infill for my project. I printed it over USB, and the cura was still running when I checked now, so i guess its not because of the computer shutdown. This used to happen when I tried printing these on Lulzbot KITTAZ i have, but its not working so I got TAZ6. Please let me know where i'm going wrong.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dTYW8.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dTYW8.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;This was the state of the print(some of it was sticking to the printbed, this picture was taken after i removed it from the printbed)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for the suggestion. I have calibrated the extruder and tried to print only the vertical cylinder. I have changed only one setting, changed the extrusion multiplier to .99. I kept the infill density to 100%(my project needs a cylinder to be completely filled without any air gaps) to see which of those two has greater influence on the print quality.   All the other settings were the same&#xA;here is the result(After I saw this I cancelled the print):&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wIjuz.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wIjuz.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/b7jrV.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/b7jrV.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Like you suggested the infill is overflowing. What should I do next, i'm concerned if it is printed with reduced infill percentage its density will decrease. Shall I try to print it with 97% and see what happens?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4544" LastEditorUserId="4544" LastEditDate="2018-01-25T01:35:23.700" LastActivityDate="2018-01-25T01:35:23.700" Title="Problem With large prints on Lulzbot Taz6" Tags="|heated-bed|software|fdm|hotend|lulzbot|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5315" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5312" CreationDate="2018-01-20T22:20:16.777" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Prusa Slic3r edition has &lt;a href=&quot;http://manual.slic3r.org/expert-mode/fighting-ooze&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;specific help references&lt;/a&gt; in the manual that may be of value to you. One of the entries that catches my eye is the line marked &quot;Retract on layer change&quot; which appears to be just as you are describing. You've noted that you've disabled all retract settings, perhaps overlooking the check box?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The above linked document also refers to a print setting that prevents retract of filament when not crossing perimeters. This again appears relevant to your difficulties.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your post says &quot;resulting in the lines of the filament to touching each other.&quot; I expect you mean &quot;not touching each other&quot; but I do not wish to correct/edit your post if I am incorrect in this understanding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastActivityDate="2018-01-20T22:20:16.777" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5316" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5131" CreationDate="2018-01-21T03:33:18.863" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am new myself and here is what helps me:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1.) Make sure your z-offset is correct, you want it to just be enough to stick, you do not want the nozzle pushing the filament into the base any harder than it has to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2.) For pieces that are too short or otherwise shaped so as not to be able to grab and pull off easy, I generally will use a raft as I find the rafts are easier to pry off than the piece itself, even if the piece already has a large surface area exposed to the bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3.) Get a print removal tool if you don't have one (mine came with one). I don't have a glass bed but would likely want to be careful here. It's basically a metal spatula. These can be purchased on amazon under 3d printing accessories..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know some other people will use Kapton tape or magigoo which are available on Amazon. I'm NOT CERTAIN that these are to help with removal (magigoo says its an adhesive that's designed to release the print after its cooled). Kapton tape I'm just speculating as I see it advertised everywhere for 3d printing, so I would research further on these.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9552" LastActivityDate="2018-01-21T03:33:18.863" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5317" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5321" CreationDate="2018-01-21T03:42:15.537" Score="4" ViewCount="1206" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have printed 1 voronoi piece before. I was able to get the supports that were inside the structure out with tweezers because the holes were big enough. This one (pic below) I do not think I can do that with. I looked at the proposed support structure preview in my slicer (I use Cura) and it wants to print them inside the torso here as well. Is there a way to force the slicer to not print supports within a hollow piece? I use cura but I can use another slicer if need be. Or any other recommendations for a successful print here would be fine as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cxgVM.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cxgVM.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9552" LastEditorUserId="9552" LastEditDate="2018-01-21T18:24:56.107" LastActivityDate="2018-01-21T18:24:56.107" Title="Supports for dense Voronoi pieces" Tags="|slicing|support-structures|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5318" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5325" CreationDate="2018-01-21T06:25:47.097" Score="3" ViewCount="274" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am trying to print a model that requires support material to be on the first layer, what is the best way to accomplish this? I am currently using Cura. It seems that the support material is too flaky. I have the infill for the support at around 8%&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9708" LastEditorUserId="4927" LastEditDate="2018-09-04T08:20:01.020" LastActivityDate="2018-09-04T08:20:01.020" Title="What is the best way to print a model with support material in first layer?" Tags="|adhesion|support-structures|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5319" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5131" CreationDate="2018-01-21T08:52:48.000" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the end I found using the tape was a great help, getting the level correct is also a big help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1093" LastActivityDate="2018-01-21T08:52:48.000" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5320" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5318" CreationDate="2018-01-21T09:18:18.827" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I cannot comment on your infill percentage for supports, since I never use them. In any case, increasing the infill may well have little or no effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, you could try two things: If your slicer includes supports when generating brims, then use brims. Otherwise, use a raft.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3953" LastActivityDate="2018-01-21T09:18:18.827" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5321" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5317" CreationDate="2018-01-21T12:52:02.040" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;One feature of Cura is the ability to set supports to build plate only. This would remove any supports internal to the model, as your model has a base that is not considered the build plate or raft. In the image provided, you would have some complications, I believe, as there would be no supports on the outside of the model if it was directly over the base.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Q3zzV.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Q3zzV.png&quot; alt=&quot;cura support settings&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you are not eliminating other options, you can also turn off supports in Cura, load your model into Meshmixer and make use of their support feature, which allows you to adjust placement, size and other parameters in order to get a good result.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The flexibility is limited only by your imagination:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tAxw2.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tAxw2.png&quot; alt=&quot;meshmixer supports&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastActivityDate="2018-01-21T12:52:02.040" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5322" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-01-21T19:32:52.630" Score="2" ViewCount="91" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am looking for a plastic which is transparent to radio waves.  I want to place my transmitter in a cylinder. That cylinder would be placed in a big RC plane  ( whose body is made up of cardboard). I want the plane to be both telemetry, and RC controlled.  That cylinder should allow the signals,  should be strong and light.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;So which material would you suggest and is that material easy to do 3d print? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9710" LastEditorUserId="9710" LastEditDate="2018-01-22T03:29:04.307" LastActivityDate="2018-01-30T23:12:15.417" Title="3d printing of which plastic out of polyurethane, e-glass, and PTFE is easiest?" Tags="|3d-models|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5323" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5312" CreationDate="2018-01-21T21:50:19.393" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The behaviour you are describing (stopping to extrude before the nozzle finish moving) is called &lt;strong&gt;coasting&lt;/strong&gt; and is actually a desirable one if tuned correctly (which is clearly not your case).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Here's a primer on why coasting is good&lt;/strong&gt;: the hysteresis (think of it as &quot;springiness&quot;) of the filament between the point where the stepper motor pinches it and pushes it towards the nozzle, and the point in which the filament liquefy, makes so that there is always a residual pressure whenever the stepper motor stop spinning.  So coasting consists of &lt;strong&gt;stopping to actively extrude &lt;em&gt;before&lt;/em&gt; the nozzle has reached the endpoint of the line&lt;/strong&gt; being &quot;drawn&quot;, and relying on the residual pressure to finish the job.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many slicer have a dedicated setting for this, but - to the best of my knowledge - slic3r PE has not.  In your question, you seem to think this may be linked to filament retraction.  It is definitively worth trying (why not!) but &lt;strong&gt;filament retraction normally refers to the act of relieving that residual pressure &lt;em&gt;after&lt;/em&gt; the line being printed is finished and before moving away the nozzle&lt;/strong&gt;, so... if that setting turns out to be the key to your problem, then it would be quite a misnomer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A quick way to verify if this is the case could be &lt;strong&gt;toggling the ceckbox &quot;use firmware retraction&quot;&lt;/strong&gt; in the printer/general pane of slic3r settings.  If the problem is with the retraction settings you chose, this would ignore them completely.  A clean print would confirm your theory.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Failing that, the best way to debug would probably be &lt;strong&gt;to slice the same model with a different slicer&lt;/strong&gt; (&lt;a href=&quot;https://ultimaker.com/en/products/ultimaker-cura-software&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;cura&lt;/a&gt; is a common one) and see if the problem persists:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;if it does, then the problem is probably in the firmware or the extruder of the printer itself&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;if it does not, then you would have a set of &quot;good settings&quot; in the second slicer that you could try to replicate in Slic3r PE.  Or - as you believe it may be the case - you could have found a way to trigger a weird bug in Slic3r.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck and let us know about your findings! :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9134" LastActivityDate="2018-01-21T21:50:19.393" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5324" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5314" CreationDate="2018-01-21T22:20:49.013" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Unluckily - for as much information on your settings you share - it is very &lt;strong&gt;difficult to diagnose the problem without knowing how the print failed&lt;/strong&gt;.  Did a piece become dislodged? Did the nozzle caught onto a printed piece? Did the head began extrude in mid air? ...?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However this are my guesses:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;From your temp settings it looks like you are printing ABS.  If this is the case, &lt;strong&gt;have you placed your printer in an enclosure&lt;/strong&gt;?  With ABS, It is very very difficult (if not impossible) to print anything above &quot;small&quot;, without an enclosure.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Printing 100% infill is normally a bad idea&lt;/strong&gt;.  If you are doing it for strength, then you should know that the strength gains are progressively smaller on anything above 60%.  100% infill also means that unless your extrusion is perfectly calibrated (which I suspect it may not be the case, given that your setting is the default 100%) any amount of overextrusion will likely let the nozzle &quot;catch&quot;.  Finally, 100% extrusion also increases the warping forces on the piece considerably.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Printing a cylinder &quot;laying down&quot; is hard&lt;/strong&gt;: you basically have zero adhesion to the printing bed and must rely on the support material to stabilise your part.  But the support material is designed &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; to bond securely to the main piece and it will be unable to counterbalance any &quot;curling up&quot; that your part may experience due to thermal contraction.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, my suggestions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Use an enclosure&lt;/strong&gt; (even a simple cardboard box on top of the printer will do for a starter).  &lt;em&gt;Definitively&lt;/em&gt; use an enclosure if you are printing with ABS&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Calibrate your extruder&lt;/strong&gt;.  &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.matterhackers.com/articles/how-to-calibrate-your-extruder&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Here&lt;/a&gt; is a handy guide. :)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Reduce your infill density&lt;/strong&gt; to something between 60% and 97%.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Print your parts one at a time&lt;/strong&gt;, start from the vertical cylinder and - when you have got that right - try the horizontal one.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you must print one of the two horizontal...&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Increase the support density considerably&lt;/strong&gt;, and diminish the Z-distance between support and print to the bare minimum.  If your edition of cura has that setting, use support interfaces at full density.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Alternatively eliminate the headache completely and &lt;strong&gt;print two semi-cylinders instead&lt;/strong&gt; (cut the cylinder in half along its length, printing them with the &quot;cut&quot; as their base) &lt;strong&gt;and glue them together afterwards&lt;/strong&gt;.  If you are using ABS you can &quot;weld&quot; them with acetone instead.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9134" LastEditorUserId="9134" LastEditDate="2018-01-22T16:55:45.727" LastActivityDate="2018-01-22T16:55:45.727" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5325" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5318" CreationDate="2018-01-21T22:36:03.507" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had the same problem printing a miniature just recently.  As always, settings are somewhat dependent from the object you want to print, but here are some suggestions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Increase the support density: 15% (8% is very low!)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Support pattern: zig-zag with &quot;connect zig-zag&quot; option enabled (add stiffness to the &quot;column&quot; of support)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Enable support interface (increase adhesion to the plate, and provide a more &quot;beefy&quot; base for the support material)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For reference, here's a screenshot of my settings as I tweaked them for that miniature (printed a 0.1mm layer height).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WNjki.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WNjki.png&quot; alt=&quot;complete support settings&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(&quot;Support line distance 1mm&quot; is the same as &quot;Support density 15%&quot;, or at least it is the same with my nozzle size)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your problem was not only with the &quot;flakiness&quot; of the material, but also with it adhesion to the bed, then prepping your printing bed somehow (with a bit of painter tape, glue, etc... can help.  Alternatively using a brim or a raft (as also suggested by another responder) could also help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT&lt;/strong&gt;: all the above still standing true, it turns out the OP had a hardware problem as well, his timing belt being loose (see comments).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9134" LastEditorUserId="9134" LastEditDate="2018-01-23T06:16:02.253" LastActivityDate="2018-01-23T06:16:02.253" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5326" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5322" CreationDate="2018-01-22T06:26:17.963" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;For the kind of application you are looking for, transparency to radio signal shouldn't really be an issue, so you are more or less free to choose whatever suits your taste better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looking at the 3d printed drone community, the 3 most common materials I see being used there are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;impact-resistent PLA&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;PETG&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;ABS&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This order also match their &quot;ease of use&quot;, with PLA being very easy to print even without heated bed, behaving well with glues in the assembly and being easy to paint on.  The impact resistance of &quot;though PLA&quot; still doesn't match that of - say - ABS, but is typically considered &quot;good enough&quot; for anything but the propellers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PETG is tougher. Print relatively easy (stringing and oozing being the typical problems) but it is known to be somewhat difficult to glue and paint.  It is also quite dense, so - dimensions being the same - it will weight more than PLA.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, ABS is a classic.  It is strong, durable, easy to finish (with acetone) but it is the most finicky material to print with, requiring an enclosure and proper ventilation (the fumes being toxic).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9134" LastActivityDate="2018-01-22T06:26:17.963" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5327" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-01-22T18:33:45.570" Score="1" ViewCount="109" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am trying to make a device with an old NES cartridge.  If I were to take an already existing cartridge, I would need to make some precision cuts into the plastic and not sure where to get advice on that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The flip side, is if I print my own 'NES' cartridge with the cuts built into the print.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So my question is two part.  One, if I were to print one on my own, what is the cheapest price point I could obtain a printer that could do enough detail to make it hard to tell the difference from the real thing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In case you are just curious, I'm needing to cut a perfectly sized rectangle into the case for an LCD panel to fit into.  Or print my own.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9716" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2018-09-16T12:41:36.570" LastActivityDate="2018-09-16T12:41:36.570" Title="Nintendo Cartridge Print?" Tags="|filament|print-quality|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5328" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5327" CreationDate="2018-01-22T21:11:11.697" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If I were to print one on my own, what is the cheapest price point I could obtain a printer that could do enough detail to make it hard to tell the difference from the real thing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Around 15.000 US$&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;FDM printers (the most common consumer-grade ones, the ones with the roll of filament beside them) all print with distinctive layer marks.  Next are resin printers, but resins tend to have a very peculiar feeling to it, that is difficult to mistake for ABS or other injection-molding plastics, when you hold them, plus they typically struggle with largish objects.  So you would probably be looking at a sintering printer, melting nylon powder with a laser.  That is expensive to buy and very expensive to operate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, while the above is all technically true, it is only half the story...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In fact &lt;strong&gt;prints done on a cheap FDM printer can be &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.fictiv.com/hwg/fabricate/ultimate-guide-to-finishing-3d-printed-parts&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;post-processed to look almost indistinguishable from an injection molded model&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;.  That takes probably more work to accomplish than modelling the object in cad and printing it though, so it's a matter of setting your expectations correctly (don't think to your print as &quot;the product&quot; but as the &quot;base material&quot; for your finished product).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would say that you essentially have two options:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;if you are looking at picking up a new hobby, and do a lot of sanding and polishing in the process, then: &quot;welcome to the club!&quot;.  There are plenty of relatively cheap printers that can print acceptably well (more on this below).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;if your interest is not towards 3d printing in general but is really limited to getting project done, than you could consider having a printing service doing that for you instead (basically you send them the file with your design and choose what kind of printer and material you want them to use, and they send you back the end result). It will be cheaper and probably of a higher quality than what you could achieve yourself.  Certainly it will require less time investment from your side.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you go with option one, an affordable printer that got very good reviews from trustworthy reviewers is the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.cetus3d.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;cetus&lt;/a&gt;.  It is 299 US$, have quality components and is very very silent.  The build volume is not huge but should be more than enough for your project.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However don't take my suggestion as &quot;this is the best you can buy for your money&quot;: there are plenty of models out there that will get the job done in the price range 300-500 US$, and if you are wishing to spend a bit more, you could get an &lt;a href=&quot;https://shop.prusa3d.com/en/3d-printers/59-original-prusa-i3-mk2-kit.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Original Prusa MKIIs&lt;/a&gt; (the printer that &lt;a href=&quot;https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=QtPRtkhH_Fs&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;topped&lt;/a&gt; the &lt;a href=&quot;https://m.all3dp.com/1/best-3d-printer-reviews-top-3d-printers-home-3-d-printer-3d/#best-3d-printer-under-1000&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;charts&lt;/a&gt; last year) for 600US$ as a kit or slightly more fully assembled.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should you go for using a printing service instead, there are a lot of them.  Two among the most well known are &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.3dhubs.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;3dhubs&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.shapeways.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;shapeways&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9134" LastEditorUserId="9134" LastEditDate="2018-01-25T00:00:20.653" LastActivityDate="2018-01-25T00:00:20.653" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5329" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-01-23T06:00:57.730" Score="2" ViewCount="3902" Body="&lt;p&gt;What are the best settings for a Simple Metal printer using a 0.3mm nozzle, knowing that the min layer height can be 1/4 the size of the nozzle?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I posted some photos on the link below and the STL file.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you for your advice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/comments/7scdug/how_to_improve_print_quality_using_a_03mm_nozzle/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/comments/7scdug/how_to_improve_print_quality_using_a_03mm_nozzle/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9720" LastActivityDate="2018-01-23T08:07:50.010" Title="How to improve resolution using 0.3mm nozzle?" Tags="|nozzle|quality|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5330" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5308" CreationDate="2018-01-23T06:26:02.883" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;So after 5 days of trouble shooting, Bob-the-Kuhn over on the marlin github forum solved it for, anyone else who faces the same issue can head over to github for my solutions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/issues/9287#issuecomment-359428147&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/issues/9287#issuecomment-359428147&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Conversation from link:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Bob-the-Kun:&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;Problem does not follow the driver. Problem does not follow the&#xA;steppers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm thinking that the Z socket has a problem. Sounds like an open/poor&#xA;contact.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Try bending the DIRECTION lead on the Z driver a little and see if the&#xA;problem disappears. It's one of the corner pins. Sometimes it's called&#xA;DIR. If your driver's pins aren't labeled then bend all four corner&#xA;pins a little.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another option is to move the Z function to the E1 socket. Replace&#xA;your pins_RAMPS.h file with this one. pins_RAMPS.zip&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;FYI - if this really is a hardware problem then it's the second RAMPS&#xA;hardware problem within a week. Most unusual.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Post reply:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes the socket I am now assuming is just broken (not sure what exactly&#xA;but possibly one of the connections), After using for pins_RAMPS file&#xA;and changed the motors back to series and connected to the E1 slot I&#xA;successful got the printer to work!!! Thank you very much Z axis is&#xA;working as I would expect! I am now calibrating the printer as it&#xA;definitely needs it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9699" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:29:41.667" LastActivityDate="2018-08-04T23:00:33.810" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5331" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5329" CreationDate="2018-01-23T07:58:06.073" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;knowing that the min layer height can be 1/4 the size of the nozzle?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure if that is a limitation of your printer specifically, but &lt;strong&gt;going &quot;down&quot; there is really no hard limitation to the layer thickness &lt;em&gt;ratio&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; that I know of or have experienced myself.  At least not on modern printers using standard stepper motors and 1.75mm filament (older 3mm printers were more limited on this).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Going &quot;up&quot; you will hit a hard limit at around 3/4 of your nozzle diameter, as layers will have a hard time bonding to each other past that, and the wall surface will be very corrugated (but I take your question about &quot;best settings&quot; is about making the print better, so with thinner layers...)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you print at reasonable (as in: not too fast) speed and have &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.matterhackers.com/articles/how-to-calibrate-your-extruder&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;calibrated your extrusion&lt;/a&gt; properly, you should be able to print at any layer height your printer supports, the limiting factor normally being the mechanical precision of your printer / the gearing of your stepper motor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In particular, &lt;strong&gt;you should try to print at layer heights that are multiple of the distance your printer will travel upwards for each step&lt;/strong&gt; of your stepper motor. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Simplifying a bit how stepper motors work: say that your screw raises 8mm for each revolution of the stepper motor, and your stepper does 200 steps per revolution... your printer will raise 8mm/200 = 0.04mm per step.  If you print at 0.05mm, most layers will be 0.04mm, with 1 in 4 being 0.08mm to compensate for the lost 0.01mm at each layer.  This will produce noticeable defects in the print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The information on how your Z axis is geared is seldom available in the official specification sheet, but usually there is always somebody knowing it on the printer user forums.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for &quot;best settings&quot;, those depends typically from the type and brand of filament being used, as well as from the 3D model geometry.  &lt;strong&gt;Printing slowly is always a good idea&lt;/strong&gt; though, as it limits the &quot;noise&quot; on the print due to vibration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In your particular example, threads (which are substantially a very long overhang) will actually benefit from a &lt;strong&gt;high ratio between nozzle width and layer height&lt;/strong&gt; (so a larger nozzle or a lower layer height).  This is because, the overhang angle being the same, higher ratios will give more material to extrude onto at each layer.  You can visualise this by thinking to how easier is to offset a stack of books compared to offsetting a stack of dice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9134" LastEditorUserId="9134" LastEditDate="2018-01-23T08:07:50.010" LastActivityDate="2018-01-23T08:07:50.010" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5332" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-01-23T13:12:31.620" Score="3" ViewCount="430" Body="&lt;p&gt;Dear experts and 3D printer users;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am a beginner in 3D printing field. I read couple of answers in forums and i cannot find exact answer to my problem. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Printing quality dropped when i try to write vertical axis (i mean, columns). There is no problem in horizontal axis. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My column width must be 0.5 mm, and printer nozzle diameter is 0.4 mm. I think I should write 0.5 mm column with 0.4 mm nozzle with ease. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I added messy structure to this post and you can find writing details below. &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VbBo0.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VbBo0.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Printed Structure&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;What do you think? What is your suggestion to overcome this problem? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Printer:Ultimaker 3,&#xA;Slicer:Cura,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Printing Details; &#xA;Nozzle diameter:0.4 mm,&#xA;Profile:Fine 0.1 mm,&#xA;Layer height:0.1 mm,&#xA;Wall thickness:1 mm,&#xA;Top bottom thickness:1 mm,&#xA;Infill density: 100 %,&#xA;Gradual infill steps:0,&#xA;Printing Temp:240 C,&#xA;Build plate Temp:65 C,&#xA;Diameter: 2.85 mm,&#xA;Dimensions of the material:10X10X5 mm&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9723" LastActivityDate="2018-01-25T06:12:56.870" Title="Quality drop in vertical axis printing" Tags="|z-axis|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5333" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-01-23T13:23:15.080" Score="4" ViewCount="6439" Body="&lt;p&gt;Anet A8 printer, Github Marlin, Repetier Host, Cura slicer&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just setting up printer and printed 20mm calibration cube from Thingiverse. X,Y,Z &amp;amp; E not too far off but not quite right (centre hole was oval not round) X19.5mm, Y19.5mm &amp;amp; Z20mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Followed Youtube calibration help and updated firmware to Marlin. I ran several iterations of request travel, measure result and tweek stepper settings (M501,M92xxxx, M500) Live Die Repeat...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I now print the calibration cube I get X25mm, Y20mm &amp;amp; Z19.5mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could the issue be with the firmare being upgraded to Marlin? The cube was sliced by Cura and I have used the same file for all of the prints. When I stop the print and ask Repetier to move the steppers the distance is as they should be for a 100mm travel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9614" LastActivityDate="2018-02-28T14:08:12.623" Title="Anet A8 Calibrated but print sizes are wrong" Tags="|marlin|ultimaker-cura|repetier-host|anet-a8|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5334" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5332" CreationDate="2018-01-23T14:42:45.167" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You cannot hope to print 0.5mm columns with a 0.4mm print head successfully using an FDM printer. Basically, you are asking the printer to lay down tiny blobs of filament, one of top of another. You have two options:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Use a finer nozzle (e.g. 0.1mm). However, such nozzles are reported as being very difficult to use.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Switch to a different printing technology (e.g. SLA). Resin and powder-based printers have much finer resolutions, and will have no difficulty printing the model that you describe.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3953" LastEditorUserId="3953" LastEditDate="2018-01-23T14:47:53.747" LastActivityDate="2018-01-23T14:47:53.747" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5335" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5332" CreationDate="2018-01-23T14:52:47.633" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The main problem with your setup is the nozzle width&lt;/strong&gt;.  It is simply too big to accurately print a structure that tiny.  An integral part of the filament deposition is the &quot;smearing&quot; of the molted plastic, that clearly can't happen if the structure is about the same size of the nozzle bore.  Also the printed structure is too flimsy to resist the &quot;suction&quot; of such a big nozzle moving away.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;I would suggest to use a smaller nozzle and/or increase the size of your pillars&lt;/strong&gt;.  A good combo would be 0.2mm nozzle with 0.6mm or 0.8mm pillars.  For these small details, it would be best to have a pillar size that is a perfect multiple of your nozzle diameter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other settings that will help you:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;reduce the print dramatically (try 20 or 30 mm/s)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;use retraction (or increase its amount/speed)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;make sure your cooling fan is 100%&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;use a sensible &quot;minimum layer time&quot; (try 10 seconds for a start)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first two settings should reduce the force/impulse applied by the nozzle on the pillar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The latter two should make sure your pillar is &quot;solid&quot; when extruding a new layer on top of it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9134" LastEditorUserId="9134" LastEditDate="2018-01-25T06:12:56.870" LastActivityDate="2018-01-25T06:12:56.870" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5336" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5257" CreationDate="2018-01-23T15:27:00.027" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sorted. Repetier Server was hijacking my com port. Uninstalled it and Repetier host worked fine. As I have no desire to monitor or control prints remotely I have no use for the server software.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope that helps others.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9614" LastActivityDate="2018-01-23T15:27:00.027" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5338" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5340" CreationDate="2018-01-24T16:43:57.137" Score="9" ViewCount="12954" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been playing around with the bed for a while and I still can't get the first layer to stick properly. I think I am getting the bed leveled good, I use the paper method. But yet I find myself with the filament lifting off and getting pulled away with the nozzle or some balling in rare situations. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I use masking tape, which I found for $3 at Dollar general. I heard something about shine being a factor, but why is that important? And is more expensive masking tape worth it? I don't want to buy it because I would hate for it to tear when I take off a print. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also use some glue stick, which seems to sometimes not help, almost like it doesn't allow the filament to stick. I don't think I was adding too much, maybe I was. But is glue stick needed? Does it really make that much of a difference?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So other than that I don't know what to try. I can't get the first layer to work properly. Maybe it is my speed, what is a good speed to print at for the first layer, I am doing 60 mm/s, just like the rest of my print. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any advice from there with first layers would be great. I am tired of wasting time and filament over failed first layers. But when I do get the first layer done, the second+ layers all work fine, no issues. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are the specs of my printer, that should be helpful for people:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Printer --&gt; Anet A6&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Print area --&gt; 220 x 220 mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Heated bed? --&gt; Yes&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bed temp --&gt; 50°C&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I use masking tape on bed&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;nozzle dia. --&gt; 0.4mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Nozzle temp --&gt; 210°C&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Print speed --&gt; 60 mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Material of choice --&gt; PLA&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fan is on after 3 layers&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think that covers everything, Let me know if I need to add anything else.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8835" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-05-24T11:14:31.003" LastActivityDate="2020-07-23T11:39:39.057" Title="Adhesion problems with masking tape" Tags="|adhesion|masking-tape|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5340" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5338" CreationDate="2018-01-24T18:58:23.780" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Masking tape (and blue painter's tape) is coated with a wax-based release agent in order to prevent the tape sticking to itself on the roll. This release agent must be removed with an organic solvent in order to obtain good adhesion. Isopropyl (rubbing) alcohol is good for this. Acetone will also work, but it is a much stronger solvent (which is not necessarily a good thing).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For blue painter's tape, rub freshly applied tape with solvent until the blue dye starts coming off. Then give it a quick wipe between prints to remove any fingerprints, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3953" LastActivityDate="2018-01-24T18:58:23.780" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5341" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-01-24T21:26:24.960" Score="3" ViewCount="650" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am using python 3.6 with pySerial library to connect to the Hyrel System 30M 3D Printer. I am able to read the data from the device but unable to write any commands to it&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is the code:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;    ser = serial.Serial()&#xA;    ser.port = 'COM4'&#xA;    ser.baudrate = 38400&#xA;    out = ser.readline()&#xA;    ser.write(b'M106 T14 S30\n') %This is the command to turn on the fan at 30% power&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can somebody suggest me how to write commands to printer through python&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9736" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-06-09T10:43:10.993" LastActivityDate="2020-06-09T15:15:18.943" Title="Sending G-code commands to Hyrel System 30M using python" Tags="|g-code|usb|serial-connection|python|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5342" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5338" CreationDate="2018-01-24T22:32:12.600" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Instead of masking tape, I would use BuildTac or some other similar surface. These are self-adhesive and come in various sizes. You can cut them down if they are too large for your bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm using it on my Monoprice Select Mini with a heated bed and it works fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did have to experiment with the PLA I'm using in order to make sure it didn't adhere &lt;em&gt;too&lt;/em&gt; well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And yes, I use alcohol prep pads to clean the surface. You can get these at the first aid or diabetes section of any pharmacy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9512" LastActivityDate="2018-01-24T22:32:12.600" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5343" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5341" CreationDate="2018-01-24T23:09:26.587" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the one in your question is your &lt;em&gt;complete&lt;/em&gt; code, a possibility is that your computer is just buffering the output for the serial port, withholding it in memory.  Try to add&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;ser.flush()&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;after your last line.  This command will... well... &lt;em&gt;flush&lt;/em&gt; anything into the buffer through the actual connection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9134" LastActivityDate="2018-01-24T23:09:26.587" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5344" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5338" CreationDate="2018-01-24T23:26:40.610" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Mick (other answerer) is spot-on with his advice on how to prep the masking tape to work well as an adhesion enhancer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally: what material is the surface of your printing bed, and is the bed heated?  If it is, just know that &lt;strong&gt;you may want to try with both heat on and off if you are using tape&lt;/strong&gt; (it works worse for me and at least a friend of mine with heat on, but down in the comment others report it working better...).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for general advice on bed adhesion strategies: in case your bed is glass and heated, then the best, fastest, cleanest and cheapest method is to just print on it without anything else.  The secrets to success here are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A &lt;strong&gt;clean glass&lt;/strong&gt;, without contamination from solvents or additives to solvents that are often used (like many types of alcohol).  Use dish soap and warm water only, and be extremely careful not to touch the printing surface with your skin, as your skin contains natural oils that &lt;em&gt;will&lt;/em&gt; make plastic not to stick to the glass.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A &lt;strong&gt;dead flat glass&lt;/strong&gt;.  This should sound obvious, but most cheap printers have glasses that are not flat enough (CR-10, I am looking at you!).  The best tip here is: use mirrors.  They are very cheap at home improvement stores, can be easily cut to size and - most importantly - they are normally &lt;em&gt;extremely&lt;/em&gt; flat, as otherwise they would deform the image they reflect.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A &lt;strong&gt;perfectly levelled glass&lt;/strong&gt;.  You can achieve this with the paper method and some patient, but if you want to make your life easier, and have better first layers, do yourself a favour and buy an &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Indicator_(distance_amplifying_instrument)&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;indicator&lt;/a&gt;.  Thingiverse is full of user-made mounts to attach them to all sort of printers.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The last point is good advice even if your bed is not glass, although you won't benefit from it as much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9134" LastEditorUserId="9134" LastEditDate="2018-01-26T15:34:40.110" LastActivityDate="2018-01-26T15:34:40.110" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5345" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1471" CreationDate="2018-01-24T23:37:39.747" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;By oversight in training, the operators of one of our UPrint SE Plus printers was simply placing the tray in the bath with the printed part.  After it was in the bath, all support material was removed and they dried and reused the tray.  This process was used for months before it was discovered, and they used the same tray for many prints.  Has anyone else tried this?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9738" LastActivityDate="2018-01-24T23:37:39.747" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5346" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5347" CreationDate="2018-01-25T04:12:41.133" Score="6" ViewCount="2565" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xE1dA.gif&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is what is happening to my motor. Any suggestions would help. &#xA;1. I have tried adjusting the trimpot. &#xA;2. Rewire the connector to match the one on the motherboard.&#xA;3. Anything else I found on the internet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9741" LastEditorUserId="3953" LastEditDate="2018-01-27T13:28:46.090" LastActivityDate="2020-12-01T05:17:05.677" Title="Anet A8 extruder motor moves back and forth" Tags="|extruder|stepper|anet-a8|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5347" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5346" CreationDate="2018-01-25T04:41:18.293" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Check the continuity of the wires on the cable. Sometimes, they are not crimped correctly. Another common fault is crossed wires. In either case, the easiest diagnostic test is to substitute another cable, but please note the color coding of this replacement wire to match the cable you replace.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3953" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-04-09T09:52:21.017" LastActivityDate="2018-04-09T09:52:21.017" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5349" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-01-26T13:13:54.030" Score="1" ViewCount="299" Body="&lt;p&gt;seeking advise &#xA;How do I set &quot;marlin&quot; to Operate 28BYJ-48 steppers on all axis?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanking you Kindly&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9748" LastActivityDate="2018-01-26T13:13:54.030" Title="Own build with 28byj-48 motors, 1.4reprap, Arduino mega, how to &quot;Marlin&quot; the settings !-)" Tags="|marlin|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2018-01-29T20:27:47.393" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5350" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5338" CreationDate="2018-01-26T13:38:56.167" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'll go out on a limb and suggest that, while your bed may be well-levelled, the Z-axis zero might be off.  A difference of 10-20 microns can be the difference between strong adhesion to the bed/tape and having your print float away.  If your first layer doesn't get &quot;squashed flat&quot; a bit by the nozzle, your extruder head is slightly higher than optimal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2191" LastActivityDate="2018-01-26T13:38:56.167" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5351" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5354" CreationDate="2018-01-26T20:34:01.747" Score="5" ViewCount="201" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to ask this in more of a general sense than anything, just for people to make note.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am printing out things for people and some files have some edges hanging out the side. I always worry, since it is printing in mid air, that it would screw up the print. But I was able to go, maybe 1mm(I am not to good with metric when it comes to guessing). My question is, how far at 90* from a wall can a printer pull off before it is necessary to have support? This would help me when slicing up files. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8835" LastEditorUserId="4927" LastEditDate="2018-09-04T08:20:25.473" LastActivityDate="2018-09-04T08:20:25.473" Title="Over-hangs in prints" Tags="|slicing|support-structures|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5352" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5346" CreationDate="2018-01-27T00:27:57.247" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Anet A8 stepper motor 4 lead cable need to be correct in colour arrangement:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;mother board end: black-green-blue-red and extrauder&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;stepper motor end: black-red-green-blue.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I bought DIY RepRap Anet A8 3d printer which came with one of the red lead end not attached, so in order to complete the build I used another lead from the Kossel delta 3D printer which has a different colour arrangement from the Anet A8 and made the motor rock back and forth as in your video.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems each colour lead carries a specific current and there are many different 4 colour cables out there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9753" LastEditorUserId="9134" LastEditDate="2018-01-27T13:32:37.947" LastActivityDate="2018-01-27T13:32:37.947" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5353" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5351" CreationDate="2018-01-27T01:33:04.027" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is typical for a 3D printer to be able to manage one-half the width of the nozzle for unsupported layer printing. This frequently calculates out to a realistic 45° from the start point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are getting 1 mm extension from a 0.4 mm nozzle you are doing well. It's possible that the layers are not strongly bonded at the point of extension from the vertical wall, but are then strengthened by the layers printed above, if they do not extend excessively.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your part is designed well, the extension will be distributed gradually over more than one layer, allowing that 1 mm extension over 2.5-3 layers without impacting the appearance of the model in an excessive manner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The above does not apply to bridges, as it involves a different dynamic for the printer/slicer software.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastActivityDate="2018-01-27T01:33:04.027" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5354" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5351" CreationDate="2018-01-27T13:05:16.400" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I understand correctly, your question is specifically for &lt;strong&gt;overhangs at 90°&lt;/strong&gt; (so an horizontal plane that has no support under it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first to notice is that &lt;strong&gt;you can only pull this off if the extrusion happens perpendicular to the surface from which the overhang is coming off&lt;/strong&gt; (the closest to 90° the better) as effectively what is happening is that you are building a cantilever structure as you extrude.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you think about it in terms of a &lt;em&gt;cantilever structure&lt;/em&gt; you will quickly realise that the stiffer the structure, the furthest you can go without it drooping. The main parameters you can tweak to increase the stiffness are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Cooling&lt;/strong&gt;. The cooler the plastic, the stiffer it is, so crank the cooling part fan up to 100%!&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Speed&lt;/strong&gt;.  Plastic need time to cool off, so the slower you print (within reasonable limits), the more time you will allow for plastic to cool under the fan.  On my rig I seem to get the best result between 15 and 20mm/s, but your mileage may vary, obviously.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Layer height&lt;/strong&gt;.  The thicker the layer, the more weight it will bear before drooping, so higher layers work best.  A slicer that is very convenient to use for prints that have a couple of overhangs like these is &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.prusa3d.com/slic3r-prusa-edition/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;slic3r PE&lt;/a&gt;, as you can vary the height of the layers at specific points in the print.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Material&lt;/strong&gt;.  Some materials are more rigid than others.  PLA is probably the one that works best for overhangs. PETG and Nylon are somewhat more problematic, and flexible filaments are the ones being more difficult to use.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;For bridges&lt;/strong&gt; (unsupported filament extruded between two supported structures) the considerations are identical but for speed: in my experience having the &lt;strong&gt;speed not too low&lt;/strong&gt; helps the nozzle keep tension in the extruded filament by &quot;pulling&quot; it and keeping it horizontal.  But again: each printer, firmware and slicer is different, and you should experiment yourself to see what works for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To sum this up: &lt;strong&gt;&quot;how far you can go before needing support&quot; is a question that cannot be answered with a fixed number&lt;/strong&gt; as the answer depends from a lot of factors that vary from printer to printer and material to material.  Without mentioning: how many defects you are happy to tolerate before calling the print a failure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9134" LastEditorUserId="9134" LastEditDate="2018-01-27T13:10:47.850" LastActivityDate="2018-01-27T13:10:47.850" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5355" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5360" CreationDate="2018-01-27T14:19:34.450" Score="1" ViewCount="9352" Body="&lt;p&gt;I tried to print 30mm calibration cube with my TEVO Tarantula. I found that a few bottom layers was missing as shown in picture. I noticed that a few bottom layers looks thin during printing. Anyone know how can I solve this ? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/15pP5.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/15pP5.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hrXOg.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hrXOg.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9473" LastActivityDate="2018-01-28T00:22:21.843" Title="Z height incorrect on calibration cube" Tags="|calibration|z-axis|axis|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5357" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5361" CreationDate="2018-01-27T21:48:56.823" Score="1" ViewCount="283" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am using Repetier Host and Slic3r Prusa 1.36.2 - (the website says 1.2.9 is the latest version - however I don't believe this is the problem) .  The printer is a Anet A3&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With my current setup I am printing mirrored - I can mirror the objects in Repetier before slicing , however then the preview picture is wrong, and worse I have to remember.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a Anet A3, the connectors for the motors are polarized and if I swap the X and Y cables when I home the X and Y motors move in the wrong direction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I believe the problem is the coordinates and I don't fully understand the Repetier coordinates. This is how I believe it is setup (these are Slic3r screen shots ) &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ces2q.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ces2q.png&quot; alt=&quot;Current Settings&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which I will call &quot;Front Left&quot; however my home position is Front Right - ie I believe it should look like this&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Dxsox.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Dxsox.png&quot; alt=&quot;correct Slicer Setup&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However these two screen shots are from the slicer - and these settings do not get used.  In the Repetier they use a different system for setup.  I tried these settings shown  in Repetier&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XWNpn.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XWNpn.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then everything printed in a line along the left most edge. That is the head was moved to the very right , never moved again then the platform just moved &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can someone explain what settings I should be using for Repetier for a platform setup as I have.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I've misunderstood the Slic3r/Repetier interface then you can point that out as well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7595" LastActivityDate="2018-01-28T03:12:35.033" Title="How do Repetier coordinates setup work" Tags="|slic3r|repetier-host|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5359" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5338" CreationDate="2018-01-28T00:10:25.360" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm Using Masking tape with no problems, your parameters are OK and just need to sand the surface before sending to print, use sand paper #120 or #150. The first layer height is 0.18 mm to 0.25 mm. The masking tape can be used for a lot of prints, you can change it every week to keep a good adhesion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found that not all brands works fine, for example &lt;strong&gt;TUK&lt;/strong&gt; has a good adhesion and can be used for several prints. &lt;strong&gt;3M&lt;/strong&gt; has an stronger adhesion but is needed to sand on 100 % area and can be used only for one printing. &lt;strong&gt;Jevelin&lt;/strong&gt; has a good adhesion but, if the heat bed is above 40 °C this masking tape starts to peel off. and the other ones might have the same issue near to 50 °C or more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4454" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-07-23T11:39:39.057" LastActivityDate="2020-07-23T11:39:39.057" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5360" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5355" CreationDate="2018-01-28T00:22:21.843" Score="0" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Anyone know how can I solve this ? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In order to know how to fix it, you must first diagnose what the problem is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Two things you should verify in Slic3r:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Check that under &quot;printer settings&quot; the Z offset is really what you want it to be&lt;/strong&gt; (if you don't know what that is, you want it at zero).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Check that in the preview&lt;/strong&gt; (Plater plane, the &quot;preview&quot; tab is on the bottom), &lt;strong&gt;you can actually see the bottom layers being generated&lt;/strong&gt; by the slicer (you can verify this by moving up and down the slider on the right of the main window).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If both of these checks are positive, then the problem is probably not with the slicer but with the printer or printer setup.  The ultimate proof of this would be to try another slicer like for example &lt;a href=&quot;https://ultimaker.com/en/products/ultimaker-cura-software&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;cura&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the problem is with the printer, the only obvious one I can think of, is that &lt;strong&gt;the bed is too high, the nozzle touches is, and the plastic cannot be extruded for the first few layers&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;You can confirm or refuse this hypothesis by simply observing the printer while in operation&lt;/strong&gt;. If it is the case:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;you should observe the nozzle moving &quot;as if&quot; it was extruding the first layers&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the nozzle should be touching the bed&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;very little plastic should remain onto the bed&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;you should hear some grinding or clicking noise from the stepper motor of the extruder (as the printer will try to push the filament, but the filament will have nowhere to go)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;If you realise this is the problem, stop the print immediately&lt;/strong&gt;: this is the typical situation in which you could generate a clog in the cold end of your extruder, which is not a permanent damage, but fixing it is a somewhat complex and tedious procedure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The good news is that if this is the problem, the solution is trivial&lt;/strong&gt;: you should simply set the nozzle height correctly.  How to do this changes from printer to printer and you should refer to the user manual of your printer.  Here is &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/_BuuGswqWWE&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;a video&lt;/a&gt; showing a few of the most common method to achieve that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9134" LastActivityDate="2018-01-28T00:22:21.843" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5361" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5357" CreationDate="2018-01-28T03:12:35.033" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure exactly sure if you have one problem or two distinctive ones.  However a few notes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;strong&gt;latest version of Slic3r PE&lt;/strong&gt; can always be fetched on their &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/prusa3d/Slic3r/releases&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;GitHub release page&lt;/a&gt;.  At the time of writing that would be version 1.38.5, but I concur with you that that is unlikely to be the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Mirrored objects are a clear indication that one of the Cartesian axis is swapped&lt;/strong&gt; (not that it is translated).  Any of the axis can be swapped, but since the peculiarity of your printer is that the homing point is at the front RIGHT, I would guess the axis that got messed up is the X one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have no way to test the following, but if I got the meaning of your first two pictures, then I guess the correct settings in Repetier may probably be these:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RDcD9.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RDcD9.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If even that fail, &lt;strong&gt;check the &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chirality_(mathematics)&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;handedness&lt;/a&gt; of the coordinate system of the software generating the model&lt;/strong&gt; you are trying to slice.  Modelling software like Blender and others are typically right-handed, but many tools for processing those model for on-screen application (movies, videogames) are left-handed.  That means that even if the model display correctly in the native editor, it may be rendered mirrored in another software.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9134" LastActivityDate="2018-01-28T03:12:35.033" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5362" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4970" CreationDate="2018-01-28T11:08:02.033" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Rhino will let you create a custom lattice structure inside the solid object, this can in turn be used to create infill using grasshopper (an inbuilt scripting tool):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;create a standard cell size and apply the lattice,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;convert the whole thing to solid,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;reimport into inventor&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9769" LastEditorUserId="9134" LastEditDate="2018-01-28T22:24:46.197" LastActivityDate="2018-01-28T22:24:46.197" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5365" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5333" CreationDate="2018-01-28T20:31:26.497" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;There could be a number of issues causing this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since you just set it up here is a list of questions for you to go through:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Are your belts tightened? (With an additional belt tightener)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Are your carriages are sliding smoothly?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both might cause some irregular movements explaining the results being off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having said that, I wouldn't worry too much if you're &amp;lt;0.5 mm off. This is still a cheap DIY printer (I have the same one, by the way).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This video actually goes into some details why you shouldn't worry so much about 100% accuracy and what you should actually care for when tuning your printer: &lt;a href=&quot;https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=Mbn1ckR86Z8&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=Mbn1ckR86Z8&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also Not sure how you measured the cube but callipers are often also not that reliable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9776" LastEditorUserId="9134" LastEditDate="2018-01-28T22:35:42.200" LastActivityDate="2018-01-28T22:35:42.200" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5366" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5367" CreationDate="2018-01-29T03:03:15.337" Score="4" ViewCount="628" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just noticed, and I KNOW it was not a problem before. But recently the fan that blows over the nozzle has been acting funny. I have it set to start blowing after 3 layers, and then turn on at 100%. I decided to watch so I can give more information and what I found...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After 3 layers, it does seem to start, very slow, barely moves. After a little bit it stops moving all together. After a short amount of time (I was elsewhere for a min) it got really warm. So I think it is putting current through the fan. I gave it a small turn and it started to speed up like it should have. And this is every time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do I need to replace the fan or something else wrong with this? What kind of fan do I replace this with?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8835" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2019-08-31T08:25:02.967" LastActivityDate="2019-08-31T08:25:02.967" Title="Anet A6 fan issues" Tags="|anet-a6|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5367" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5366" CreationDate="2018-01-29T08:58:09.847" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is impossible to say with certainty without a tester, but &lt;strong&gt;my educated guess is that some of the induction coils in the motor are broken&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Electrical motors that need to spin in a defined direction have multiple sets of coils (thing &quot;magnets&quot;), so that at any given moment the rotor will be pulled (more strongly) in one direction than the opposite one, thus determining the direction the motor will spin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the description of your symptoms, it seems that one or more of these coils have broken, and now the fan can stall in one specific point, as it misses the &quot;pulling&quot; force that should move the motor past that point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you spin the fan manually, the momentum of the fan will allow the blades to move past that static equilibrium point and reach the next position where the working set(s) of coils will begin to pull it again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While theoretically it is possible to open the motor, do some testing and fixing this, to all practical effects is much more effective to just replace the part (which is a regular fan for computer CPUs).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't own an Anet A6, but from a quick googling it seems the correct one would be a &lt;strong&gt;40mm one rated for 5v&lt;/strong&gt; (albeit I found a link suggesting a 12v instead).  My suggestion is to simply &lt;strong&gt;look at the specifications of the fan you have now&lt;/strong&gt;.  The specifications are normally on a sticker at the very centre of it (the side with the sticker may be facing the extruder, so you may need to unscrew the fan first).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9134" LastActivityDate="2018-01-29T08:58:09.847" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5368" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5333" CreationDate="2018-01-29T13:50:02.777" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have a stock printer, your calibration values should be stock - i.e. 100 steps/mm for X/Y. Also, as an extra hint, X and Y steps should be identical since the mechanics are identical (unless you swapped out one of the motors or drive gears).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It sounds like you have Y correct, but something wrong with X. This could be the belt being damaged, or slipping (or having slipped during your initial cal, and not later). Try increasing/decreasing print speed, this might show up some dynamic problems with the movement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you print something bigger (like &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2566871&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt;) you don't need to worry so much about measurement precision and under/over-extrusion (which adds to the error, but doesn't scale with size).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You don't make it clear if you've started by calibrating your extruder. This is the most important first step, and ensures that you extrude the right length of filament during the print. All this requires is that you mark out 10cm of filament and extrude it into free space.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4927" LastEditorUserId="4927" LastEditDate="2018-01-29T14:05:48.757" LastActivityDate="2018-01-29T14:05:48.757" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5369" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5292" CreationDate="2018-01-29T14:50:07.000" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Finally I found out that it was caused by not enough torque output by B tower stepper motor. Increasing current didn't work. I replaced the stepper motor and it prints perfectly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="162" LastActivityDate="2018-01-29T14:50:07.000" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5370" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5351" CreationDate="2018-01-29T19:34:44.970" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;To add to what mac described, there are small detail effects which sometimes change the behaviour of an overhang (and not necessarily in a predictable manner).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Concave overhangs might sag (rather than turn out like a bridge).&#xA;Convex overhangs might pull tight.&#xA;Cooling plastic tends to shrink,so might sag less.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm often surprised how well overhangs turn out, but equally often see failures which I don't anticipate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4927" LastActivityDate="2018-01-29T19:34:44.970" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5372" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5410" CreationDate="2018-01-30T19:38:08.313" Score="11" ViewCount="4368" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently changed filament and for starters it worked perfectly well, but quickly I got some problems with my first layer. It's like droplets are forming on the surface (finished item + 3 undersides):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qgPyl.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qgPyl.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The final part is (for me) okay but I'd like to get rid of those pesky 'drops'.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;As the defect is quite stable and quite recognizable and it happens all the time, I bet somebody more experienced than me knows what's going on!&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Info:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm using a 1 week old eSun filament, a E3D V6 Hotend 1.75mm on my scratch CoreXY printer, short Bowden direct drive, Repetier, Marlin, Linear advance (M900 K60 so quite low).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The print is done using a 0.4mm diameter nozzle at 0.2mm height at:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;50°C(122°F) heat-bed and 214°C(417°C) hot-end for first layer, then lower a bit to&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;40°C(104°F) heat-bed and 211°C(412°F) hot-end.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I use Blue-painter tape.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Worked perfectly well with my black eSun and my white eSun.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What's my problem?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you all!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[Edit]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tried about everything (more temp, less temp, fan on item, more / less bed temp, underextrude, moving around z delta, removing linear advance, radically lowering speed) but the only thing that worked about okay (problem was quite reduced but didn't go away totally) was to bump up the layer thickness to 0.3mm&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[Edit 2] Finally it seems it was, as it usually is, a conjuncture of several problems that I will list here:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The bed was not perfectly flat&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The heatbed moved/bended when going from a hot first layer to a colder second (and on) layer&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Maybe the speed was a bit high for the first layer (25mm/s)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I fixed this by installing a borosilicate glass bed on top of the heat bed which ensures a perfect flatness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had to change my inductive sensor to an 8mm one (insteéad of the 4mm I had previously added) to make this function. I think it is not as good as it can be as it detects the heatbed under the glass (which is not perfectly flat), but it's enough for now. I'm thinking about how to make the glass conductive, like aluminium or something, but that's for another day/post.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also put blue tape on the glass because the first layer was tricky. This might be because the inductive sensor doesn't do its job that well (see above).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Heatbed temperature for first layer: 70°C&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Extruder temperature anywhere from 190°C to 220°C works fine, that was not the problem, or it is no longer a problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also lowered the first layer speed to 20mm/s because the first layer didn't stick easily directly onto the glass, with blue painters tape it sticks even too much so I'll try higher speeds. It did mitigate problems though so it might be a path to try if you run into similar problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And now it seems that it works even amazingly well, I just have to print something really big to see!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;---------------Old:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Moving z up made spaghetti :-) and different temperatures made quite extreme warping:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eV7UJ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eV7UJ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7VeCT.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7VeCT.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8328" LastEditorUserId="8328" LastEditDate="2018-05-17T10:59:15.550" LastActivityDate="2018-05-17T10:59:15.550" Title="What is causing 'droplets' on first layer?" Tags="|print-quality|filament-quality|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5373" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5372" CreationDate="2018-01-30T21:37:12.827" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Mine is more of an educated guess than a definitive diagnosis, but &lt;strong&gt;it looks to me like if your printer may be overextruding&lt;/strong&gt; (it's difficult to say with certainty with this particular picture, but your top layers too do not look as good as they should).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;I wonder if you have &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.matterhackers.com/articles/how-to-calibrate-your-extruder&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;calibrated your extrusion&lt;/a&gt; for this particular spool of filament&lt;/strong&gt;?  This is something that you should do for each and every new spool of filament, regardless of whether you have already used the same brand and material, as different batches and colours may differ slightly in diameter or hardness, and both factors can lead to a different overall flow out of your nozzle (I just checked eSun website, and they state &quot;Accuracy:1.7-1.8mm&quot;, and 6% variance is quite a lot).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Possibly unrelated, but &lt;strong&gt;211+°C is also quite on the high end of the correct temperature for printing PLA&lt;/strong&gt; (if that is what you are using).  Still in the range recommended by the manufacturer - so it should be ok - but you may wish to try bringing it down a notch (205°C perhaps?).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9134" LastEditorUserId="9134" LastEditDate="2018-01-30T21:50:26.000" LastActivityDate="2018-01-30T21:50:26.000" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5374" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5322" CreationDate="2018-01-30T23:12:15.417" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;To second @mac, &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For drone usage, ABS will be your pal*. Both tough-PLA and PETG are relatively heavy, which is a disadvantage for flying saucers. Unless you power up and don't care!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;And I say this as someone who does not recommend ABS for general printing and I don't like printing ABS myself because of the smell, how much it warps, and most importantly the harmful nano particles it releases when printing (yes, all filaments do this, but ABS is on the very bad side of the spectrum). &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that tough-PLA differs manufacturer to manufacturer - basically it's not supposed to behave like PLA, so you get proprietary blends. PETG is traditionally tougher than PLA, but with the modified PLA, who knows. I have not personally met tough PLA tougher than regular PETG. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;SO: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;PETG if weight is not an issue. It prints well and it's tough. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;ABS if weight is an issue. It's not easy to print; and make sure it's well well ventilated area (while venting during the print would mess up your print.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tough PLA if you only have cold bed. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3796" LastActivityDate="2018-01-30T23:12:15.417" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5375" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4677" CreationDate="2018-01-31T04:59:16.643" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Solidworks has means for detection and eradication of these errors. If there's unwanted intersection, then you can either separate the parts or merge them (by saving assembly as a part). If you work with SLDPRTs, then use mating options correctly, avoid manual mating, make sure that the design of your components actually allows them to mate without intersections and you'll have no problems. If you work with parts that are loaded from STLs though, then you'll probably have a lot of these errors when trying to align parts. Solidworks can't work smoothly with STL models, alas, you'll need some other tool, MeshLab or something.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8847" LastActivityDate="2018-01-31T04:59:16.643" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5376" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="109" CreationDate="2018-01-31T05:30:51.277" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a good question, which hadn't received enough researchers' attention. People regularly print different objects, some of them with strength requirements and the need for a method of strength estimation is high.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good experimental way to estimate the change would be to find a COTS cast plastic object, be it ABS or PLA or whatever, buy 3-5 pieces, then reverse engineer it, copy the design and print it 3-5 times in different orientations. Then you need to start destroying your objects in a manner that coincides with your needs. If your parts would be experiencing compression - crush them, if stretching - tear them apart, and measure the required strength. Then compare and get relative strength, that you can further use in your calculations. You'll notice that adhesion between FDM layers is much weaker than strength of bonds in the layer plane, so you'll have two coefficients - one for Z axis, one for XY (note, that printer settings can heavily affect the result, so every coefficient will be a function of printing parameters). Can't tell 100% reliably, but SLA may have just one coefficient - I hadn't noticed any difference between parts' strength in Z and XY directions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're not a fan of thorough scientific approach, then you can just print your part and test it under your target conditions as much times as necessary. Or make a casting mold, then a solid object.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8847" LastEditorUserId="8847" LastEditDate="2018-01-31T09:08:39.123" LastActivityDate="2018-01-31T09:08:39.123" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5377" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-02-01T23:07:55.763" Score="1" ViewCount="186" Body="&lt;p&gt;Help, I know how to print simple cookie cutter style molds, but I need to know how to turn that open shape into a closed smaller version that can be used as a plunger.  Reason being, is I make bath bombs, so it would be so much easier to get bombs out of molds if I could make a plunger.  Thank you so much for any help!!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9815" LastActivityDate="2018-03-04T02:40:19.447" Title="Making a plunger" Tags="|molds|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5378" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5048" CreationDate="2018-02-01T23:55:05.143" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;heat it up see what happens also take into consideration additional support in case it degrades its still holding up.  if possible give it somekind of protective coat. someone said paint but can you add a coat of resin or ceramic?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9816" LastActivityDate="2018-02-01T23:55:05.143" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5379" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5377" CreationDate="2018-02-02T02:24:15.860" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's important to provide information regarding the program you are using to model your molds. Even without that information, there are general methods to produce the portion you require. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Consider that you already have the outer portion, what you describe reasonably well as a cookie cutter style. If you are using someone else's model cookie cutter shape, the following will still apply.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most programs have a subtractive feature. An easy program that provides this feature would be Tinkercad. Running with that program, the steps would be as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;import the current cookie cutter shape &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;scale up the shape to ensure&#xA;that the inner portion is decreased, by increasing the wall&#xA;thickness. It is expected that scaling up the shape will enlarge both&#xA;the outside wall and inside wall of the cookie cutter shape create a&#xA;block that will encompass the cookie cutter, circular or rectangular&#xA;as desired. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;use the subtractive feature to remove the cookie cutter&#xA;shape from the block &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;this should also segment the outer portion of&#xA;the block, which would be removed, leaving the inside cookie shape.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastActivityDate="2018-02-02T02:24:15.860" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5380" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-02-02T13:10:08.097" Score="2" ViewCount="1818" Body="&lt;p&gt;I printed Thingiverse &quot;Benchy&quot; at the default Anet settings for ABS, hot end and bed, as a first test. The result was fair but needs a bit of tweeking. The model was removed from the &quot;hot bed&quot; and set aside to cool (room temp 23degC). However when I took the model to work next day (to show off obviously) the poor wee soul looked more like the wreck of the Hesparus with cracking across many of the layers. Any thoughts? Splitting was on the side closest to the fan.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9614" LastActivityDate="2018-02-03T15:49:27.087" Title="Cooling time query ABS" Tags="|abs|extrusion|anet-a8|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5381" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-02-02T13:53:26.260" Score="5" ViewCount="416" Body="&lt;p&gt;One of the most interesting field in which the 3D Printing is being considered is the fabrication of biocompatible devices and parts for a medical applications. &#xA;For that I am interesting in knowing what  technique are used for the fabrication of splints or cast used for the immobilization of human body part, also which material is compatible with this technique?&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/H1rgS.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/H1rgS.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5765" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2018-09-16T12:41:10.117" LastActivityDate="2019-08-29T23:58:33.597" Title="What's the best printing technique to produce splints (a device to immobilize a body part)?" Tags="|print-quality|print-material|health|medical|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5382" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5386" CreationDate="2018-02-02T19:45:53.627" Score="2" ViewCount="3410" Body="&lt;p&gt;Model of the printer is unknown, got it as present, probably something generic cartesian on arduino mega and ramps boards stitched together and with marlin firmware.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've used accepted answer from here to try moving this thing from terminal.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/3112/how-to-directly-send-g-code-to-printer-from-a-linux-terminal&quot;&gt;How to directly send G-code to printer from a Linux terminal?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My first attempt to get access to low-level printer interface looked like that: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;./baud.py &amp;lt;&amp;gt; /dev/ttyACM0 250000&#xA;tail -f /dev/ttyACM0 &amp;amp;&#xA;cat &amp;gt; /dev/ttyACM0&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First it was fine: i've entered g-code, printer executed it and returned an ok message into my terminal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then i've turned the printer off and on again and repeated the whole process, but now &lt;code&gt;tail -f&lt;/code&gt; didn't output anything and printer LCD displayed garbage in the status line after I ran the command.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've also noticed that printer controller reboots every time the serial port is accessed, not sure if it happened in the first time when everything worked well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The output of &lt;code&gt;cat /dev/ttyACM0&lt;/code&gt; after baud setting is a bit weird too - and there's garbage in the status line instead of standard &quot;%printername% ready&quot; as well:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;start&#xA;echo:Marlin1.0.0&#xA;echo: Last Updated: May 20 2017 18:12:04 | Author: (none, default config)&#xA;Compiled: May 20 2017&#xA;echo: Free Memory: 3763  PlannerBufferBytes: 1232&#xA;echo:Hardcoded Default Settings Loaded&#xA;echo:Steps per unit:&#xA;echo:  M92 X80.00 Y80.00 Z3200.00 E97.94&#xA;echo:Maximum feedrates (mm/s):&#xA;echo:  M203 X50.00 Y50.00 Z2.50 E25.00&#xA;echo:Maximum Acceleration (mm/s2):&#xA;echo:  M201 X750 Y750 Z100 E10000&#xA;echo:Acceleration: S=acceleration, T=retract acceleration&#xA;echo:  M204 S500.00 T500.00&#xA;echo:Advanced variables: S=Min feedrate (mm/s), T=Min travel feedrate (mm/s), B=minimum segment time (ms), X=maximum XY jerk (mm/s),  Z=maximum Z jerk (mm/s),  E=maximum E jerk (mm/s)&#xA;echo:  M205 S0.00 T0.00 B20000 X20.00 Z1.00 E5.00&#xA;echo:Home offset (mm):&#xA;echo:  M206 X0.00 Y0.00 Z0.00&#xA;echo:PID settings:&#xA;echo:   M301 P22.20 I1.08 D114.00&#xA;echo:SD init fail&#xA;echo:Unknown command: &quot;starto&quot;&#xA;ok&#xA;echo:Unknown command: &quot;SD init failstartuthor&quot;&#xA;ok&#xA;echo:Unknown command: &quot; (none, default config)50.00 Z2.50 E2rBy00.00 Y0.00 Z0.00echo&quot;&#xA;ok&#xA;echo:Unknown command: &quot;Unknown command&quot;&#xA;ok&#xA;echo:Unknown command: &quot; &quot;starto&quot;own comm&quot;&#xA;ok&#xA;echo:Unknown command: &quot;aximum XY jerk (mm/s),  Z=maximum Z jerk (mm/s),  E=maximum E jerk (mm/s)echo&quot;&#xA;ok&#xA;echo:Unknown command: &quot;PID settings&quot;&#xA;ok&#xA;echo:Unknown command: &quot;okechecho&quot;&#xA;ok&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &quot;SD init fail&quot; line and everything after it appears when sensor data appears on the LCD, there's a delay before that during which the LCD is empty.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you send commands to printer using something like &lt;code&gt;echo &quot;G0 X10&quot; &amp;gt; /dev/ttyACM0&lt;/code&gt;, it executes them only on next serial port accessing (and therefore reboot) - or doesn't execute at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The interesting part is that Cura &quot;Monitor&quot; tab can actually manipulate the caret and the Cura itself can print things in general - but i want to be able to do it manually.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9824" LastActivityDate="2018-02-03T14:35:13.890" Title="Issues with direct g-code transmission via serial port" Tags="|marlin|g-code|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5383" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-02-02T23:01:23.743" Score="3" ViewCount="106" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is it possible to print chocolate or food using Ramps 1.4? I have seen printers that are capable of printing food. But I am not sure if there is one that is open source. Does any of you have any experience printing food? Thanks &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1814" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2019-11-12T01:16:44.433" LastActivityDate="2019-11-12T01:16:44.433" Title="Printing Chocolate with Ramps 1.4" Tags="|ramps-1.4|food|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5384" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5380" CreationDate="2018-02-03T04:01:56.653" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As you may already know, ABS is one of the trickiest materials to print with, partly because of its high thermal coefficient, which in turns leads with warping and cracks when not dealt with properly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The keys to successfully deal with this aspect of ABS are two: cooling it &lt;em&gt;slowly&lt;/em&gt; and cooling it &lt;em&gt;uniformly&lt;/em&gt;. Typically you achieve this by using an enclosure.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Enclosures can range in quality and price dramatically: there are professional grade ones that are fire and sound proof, maintain a negative pressure, filter the exhaust air and cost a few thousands euros... or you could get away with something as simple as using a cardboard box.  Probably, one of the most common solutions is to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.instructables.com/id/3d-Printer-Enclosure-from-Upcycled-Furniture/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;use an IKEA lack table and some acrylic or wooden panes&lt;/a&gt; as it provides a durable, effective solution at a very low cost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway: &lt;strong&gt;the &lt;em&gt;reason&lt;/em&gt; why an enclosure works is because it traps the air that has been heated by your heating bed, thus &quot;immersing&quot; the full print (not just the bottom layer) in it&lt;/strong&gt;.  In turn, this means that:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The difference between the extruded temperature and the final one is less.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The gradient of temperatures across the height of the printer volume is also less.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The print is shielded by random air drafts, like the one you would generate by approaching the printer to check it&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When you stop applying heat (print is over, heating bed off) the print will cool very gently.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, about that fan...  Using a fan actually &lt;em&gt;increases&lt;/em&gt; the speed at which your part cools, so - intuitively - one may believe a fan is a bad idea with ABS.  However a fan is essential if your print has any type of non-trivial overhangs, and - in general - prints done using a fan (in any material) have better details.  Again, &lt;strong&gt;with an enclosure, using a fan is seldom a problem&lt;/strong&gt; as your fan will cool the ABS rapidly but &lt;em&gt;only down to the temperature of the air in the enclosure&lt;/em&gt; (most commonly somewhere between 50°C and 80°C).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your print is very small (like a benchy) and you don't want to try with an enclosure, you could still try to improve your situation by:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;simply &lt;strong&gt;reducing the speed of the fan&lt;/strong&gt; (so to only &quot;partially cool&quot; the part)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;using a &lt;strong&gt;fan duct that distributes the air jet more heavenly&lt;/strong&gt; around the extruded filament.  Typically these are 3D printable parts that you find in forums and groups of a given printer model users.  &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1954001&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Here's a semi-circular one for the Anet A8&lt;/a&gt;, for example.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9134" LastEditorUserId="9134" LastEditDate="2018-02-03T15:49:27.087" LastActivityDate="2018-02-03T15:49:27.087" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5385" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5382" CreationDate="2018-02-03T04:41:51.177" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Mine is a wild guess, but judging from:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;echo:Unknown command: &quot;starto&quot;&#xA;ok&#xA;echo:Unknown command: &quot;SD init failstartuthor&quot;&#xA;ok&#xA;echo:Unknown command: &quot; (none, default config)50.00 Z2.50 E2rBy00.00 Y0.00 Z0.00echo&quot;&#xA;ok&#xA;echo:Unknown command: &quot;Unknown command&quot;&#xA;ok&#xA;echo:Unknown command: &quot; &quot;starto&quot;own comm&quot;&#xA;ok&#xA;echo:Unknown command: &quot;aximum XY jerk (mm/s),  Z=maximum Z jerk (mm/s),  E=maximum E jerk (mm/s)echo&quot;&#xA;ok&#xA;echo:Unknown command: &quot;PID settings&quot;&#xA;ok&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;It looks like you may be looping back the output of your printer as an input to itself&lt;/strong&gt;.  I am very suspicious of your line: &lt;code&gt;tail -f /dev/ttyACM0 &amp;amp;&lt;/code&gt; as that seems to indicate your are trying to perform other actions in the same terminal window after you started to monitor the serial connection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this is the case, you should definitively &lt;strong&gt;open the monitor in a &lt;em&gt;separate&lt;/em&gt; terminal&lt;/strong&gt; (&lt;code&gt;tail -f /dev/ttyACM0&lt;/code&gt;) and feed the input in a different one (note that yo must not use the final &lt;code&gt;&amp;amp;&lt;/code&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, you probably want to use &lt;code&gt;cat &amp;gt;&amp;gt; /dev/ttyACM0&lt;/code&gt; instead of &lt;code&gt;cat &amp;gt; /dev/ttyACM0&lt;/code&gt; as you want to append your commands without truncating the existing stream.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9134" LastEditorUserId="9134" LastEditDate="2018-02-03T13:51:25.827" LastActivityDate="2018-02-03T13:51:25.827" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5386" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5382" CreationDate="2018-02-03T14:35:13.890" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;That's weird but i've got some code from here: &lt;a href=&quot;https://stackoverflow.com/questions/6947413/how-to-open-read-and-write-from-serial-port-in-c&quot;&gt;https://stackoverflow.com/questions/6947413/how-to-open-read-and-write-from-serial-port-in-c&lt;/a&gt; , changed it a little, removed few lines, ran it - and my port started working just fine. Here's the complete code (for Linux of course).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I guess that was the c_lflag line that solved the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#include &amp;lt;asm/termios.h&amp;gt;&#xA;#include &amp;lt;stropts.h&amp;gt;&#xA;#include &amp;lt;unistd.h&amp;gt;&#xA;#include &amp;lt;fcntl.h&amp;gt;&#xA;#include &amp;lt;string.h&amp;gt;&#xA;&#xA;int set_interface_attribs (int fd) {&#xA;    struct termios2 tty;&#xA;    memset (&amp;amp;tty, 0, sizeof tty);&#xA;    ioctl(fd, TCGETS2, &amp;amp;tty);&#xA;    tty.c_cflag&amp;amp;=~CBAUD;&#xA;    tty.c_cflag|=BOTHER;&#xA;    tty.c_ispeed=tty.c_ospeed=250000;&#xA;    tty.c_cflag = (tty.c_cflag &amp;amp; ~CSIZE) | CS8;&#xA;    tty.c_iflag &amp;amp;= ~IGNBRK;&#xA;    tty.c_lflag = 0;&#xA;    tty.c_oflag = 0;&#xA;    tty.c_cc[VMIN]  = 0;&#xA;    tty.c_cc[VTIME] = 5;&#xA;    tty.c_iflag &amp;amp;= ~(IXON | IXOFF | IXANY);&#xA;    tty.c_cflag |= (CLOCAL | CREAD);&#xA;    tty.c_cflag &amp;amp;= ~(PARENB | PARODD);&#xA;    tty.c_cflag &amp;amp;= ~CSTOPB;&#xA;    tty.c_cflag &amp;amp;= ~CRTSCTS;&#xA;    ioctl(fd, TCSETS2, &amp;amp;tty);&#xA;    return 0;&#xA;}&#xA;&#xA;int main() {&#xA;    int fd=open(&quot;/dev/ttyACM0&quot;,O_RDWR|O_NOCTTY|O_SYNC);&#xA;    set_interface_attribs(fd);&#xA;    close(fd);&#xA;    return 0;&#xA;}&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9824" LastActivityDate="2018-02-03T14:35:13.890" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5387" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5388" CreationDate="2018-02-03T16:28:11.317" Score="4" ViewCount="603" Body="&lt;p&gt;Firstly, I just bought a G2S mini pro &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.geeetech.com/wiki/index.php/Geeetech_G2_%26_G2s_pro&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;from Geeetech&lt;/a&gt; and it is my first 3D printer (therefore I'm 100% newbie in this area).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first extruder seems to be ok, the temperature varies from 23°C to 201°C and if you touch it you can see that it is hot. However, for the second extruder, the temperature is shown with more than 400°C:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aHMZX.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Second extruder at 400°C&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aHMZX.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Second extruder at 400°C&quot; title=&quot;Second extruder at 400°C&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The cables are connected correctly and the firmware is updated. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do I have to return the printer? Or is there another solution?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9830" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-06-25T10:58:43.123" LastActivityDate="2018-06-25T10:58:43.123" Title="Wrong temperature on extruder 2" Tags="|extruder|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5388" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5387" CreationDate="2018-02-03T18:43:32.830" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have access to an &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Infrared_thermometer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;IR thermometer&lt;/a&gt;, it would be interesting to verify what the actual temperature is.  I doubt the hot end actually reaches that temperature, but:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;if it actually does&lt;/strong&gt;, then it could actually be dangerous, as most extruders are designed for temperatures well below 300°C.  The problem would likely be in the firmware in this case.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;if it stays cold&lt;/strong&gt;, then probably is a problem with the temperature probe or its cables/connectors being broken. Most printers use thermistors as temperature probes, and thermistors let less and less current pass through the higher the temperature is, so: no current would be interpreted as the hot end being &quot;extremely hot&quot; and the firmware would not heat the hot end further.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;if it is hot but at another temperature&lt;/strong&gt; than the one displayed, then it could either be a problem with the probe over-reading or a firmware bug (e.g.: the temperature is shown in Fahrenheit, or the firmware mis-process the signal from the probe).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Either way: thermistors and cables are cheap to replace, while problems with the firmware may be fixed only if you have access to the code.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you just bought the printer in a physical store, I would simply swap it with another unit, rather than fiddling with it, though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9134" LastActivityDate="2018-02-03T18:43:32.830" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5389" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5393" CreationDate="2018-02-03T19:58:11.527" Score="5" ViewCount="15431" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am printing some minion chess pieces for my teacher at school and on every model I have found something called &quot;ghosting&quot;, or at least I heard that is what it is called. For example there is a strap on the model for the pants. And going left and right there is very shallow &quot;straps&quot; or something happening. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am interested to know what causes this to happen and how to fix it. It is not super bad, but would be nice to fix.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8835" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2019-02-26T14:18:19.100" LastActivityDate="2019-02-26T14:18:19.100" Title="What causes &quot;ghosting&quot;?" Tags="|print-quality|ghosting|knowledgebase|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5390" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5460" CreationDate="2018-02-03T20:04:02.017" Score="1" ViewCount="139" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.geeetech.com/wiki/index.php/Geeetech_G2_%26_G2s_pro&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;geeetech g2s pro&lt;/a&gt; and when I request to print something, the extruder motor doesn't move (it is connected on the board), therefore, the printer prints some kind of imaginary object. I cannot ask Repetir host to extrude it as prevents moving when the extruder is cold, and when it is hot all the repetier host does is moving the header up. Is there a way a could test these motors without needing a hot extruder?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here you have a picture of it, maybe it is upside down.&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TFWe5.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TFWe5.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;motor&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9830" LastActivityDate="2018-02-10T16:55:24.193" Title="Extruder driver not working" Tags="|motor|extruder-driver|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5391" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-02-03T22:46:58.343" Score="6" ViewCount="15816" Body="&lt;p&gt;Anet A8 with Cura. First time use. The extrusion temperature is set at 190 °C for PLA but the temperature never quite gets that hot, e.g. 189.2 °C. So the printer never prints.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bed temperature is fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any suggestions on how to fix?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9831" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2022-01-22T22:58:30.673" LastActivityDate="2022-04-01T17:49:07.697" Title="My extruder does not reach the set temperature" Tags="|pla|anet-a8|heat-management|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5392" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2904" CreationDate="2018-02-04T01:28:20.430" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can find a full color hot end with CMYK+White if you look here &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.reprap.me/diamond-fullcolor-hotend.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.reprap.me/diamond-fullcolor-hotend.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9832" LastActivityDate="2018-02-04T01:28:20.430" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5393" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5389" CreationDate="2018-02-04T01:29:25.823" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Ghosting is an artefact in the print due to the vibrations in the printer that are induced by rapid changes of direction&lt;/strong&gt;.  It is important not to confuse them with inherent vibrations in the printer due for example to the belts being loose or the bearings not being in perfect order.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The good news is that it is relatively easy to tell them apart: &lt;strong&gt;ghosting&lt;/strong&gt; (also known as &quot;ringing&quot; or &quot;ripples&quot; or &quot;waves&quot; or a number of other names...) &lt;strong&gt;is always downstream of a change of direction, and fades rapidly&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xsYP9.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xsYP9.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;ghosting&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Inherent vibrations - on the other hand - tend to be consistently present when printing along a given direction, and do not fade.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ao2ZR.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ao2ZR.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;inherent vibrations&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mechanically, ghosting works like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The moving part is travelling along - for example - the x-axis, when suddenly the direction of movement becomes the y-axis.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;At that moment, the stepper motor of the x-axis stop rotating, but the &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Momentum&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;momentum&lt;/a&gt; of the moving part stretches the belt even so slightly past the intended stop point.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;At this moment the belt becomes like a rubber bend / spring, absorbs the kinetic energy of the moving mass and releases it by &quot;throwing&quot; it past the intended stop point in the other direction.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;This keeps on repeating a number of times, but at each pass, some of the energy is dissipated, and the moving mass moves less end less away from the ideal stopping point.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;While all of the above is happening, the object has also begun to move along the y-axis, so the extruded plastic looks &quot;weavey&quot; along the y-axis.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Understanding how this process works, makes it possible to understan why the three main factors affecting ghosting are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The &lt;strong&gt;amount of mass&lt;/strong&gt; being moved&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The &lt;strong&gt;speed, acceleration and jerk&lt;/strong&gt; settings&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The &lt;strong&gt;elasticity of the mechanical components&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Namely, &lt;strong&gt;mass and speed are important because their product is the momentum&lt;/strong&gt;.  That in turn means that diminishing either one of the two will reduce the amount of &quot;overshooting&quot; past the stopping point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Elasticity of the mechanical components is important as &lt;strong&gt;the more flex/stretch the part can take for a given amount of force, the more overshooting&lt;/strong&gt; a given momentum will result in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, &lt;strong&gt;acceleration and jerk are important because&lt;/strong&gt; - simplifying things a bit - &lt;strong&gt;the faster the change of direction happens, the less time the system has to adjust&lt;/strong&gt; without vibrating.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, concretely... what can you do to fix/reduce ghosting?  Three things, of course! :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Reduce the mass being moved&lt;/strong&gt;.  Depending on the geometry of your printer, the mass being moved could be the bed+print, the printing head, or an entire gantry.  These are normally considerations done when designing the printer itself, and engineers normally mitigate problems by using lighter materials (plastic over metal, aluminium or carbon fiber over steel, etc...), or adopting different designs (like using a Bowden extruder instead of a direct one, to save the weight of the stepper motor).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Reduce speed, acceleration and/or jerk&lt;/strong&gt;.  Speed is normally the safest bet, as - besides your prints taking longer - there is really no penalty for it.  Acceleration and jerk - on the other hand - can cause overestrusion at sharp corners.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Reduce the elasticity of the system&lt;/strong&gt;.  This is commonly achieved by tightening the belts and eventually switching to more rigid rods / tracks / rails.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A couple of resources that may come in handy for you to understand and solve the problem better:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.desiquintans.com/ringing&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;really nice article&lt;/a&gt; with illustrations (two of which I &quot;stole&quot; for this post)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:277394&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;test model&lt;/a&gt; specifically designed to highlight any possible ringing problem with the printer.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/AKTvykTPjQw&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;video&lt;/a&gt; showing lots of different test prints done with various settings (very useful to understand how changing the above parameters affects the print).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9134" LastEditorUserId="9134" LastEditDate="2018-02-04T08:26:07.687" LastActivityDate="2018-02-04T08:26:07.687" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5394" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5391" CreationDate="2018-02-04T01:42:11.800" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Two common problems to look out for in this situation:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Make sure that your &lt;strong&gt;part fan&lt;/strong&gt; (the fan that is supposed to cool the filament you just extruded, and that does not start spinning until the print starts) do &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; blow air on the hot end of your extruder.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Make sure that your &lt;strong&gt;hot end is well insulated&lt;/strong&gt;.  If available for your printer, silicone sleeves are the best:&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7TKQM.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7TKQM.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;silicone sleeves&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;otherwise the most common, universal and low-cost solution are cotton pads:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qcwSc.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qcwSc.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9134" LastActivityDate="2018-02-04T01:42:11.800" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5395" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5396" CreationDate="2018-02-04T03:42:27.450" Score="7" ViewCount="527" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm new to 3D printing and I recently got a LulzBot Taz 6 printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm interested in doing dual extrusion printing (especially with dissolvable supports), but I'm also interested in doing single extrusion prints. In particular, I would like to experiment with printing flexible filament.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.lulzbot.com/store/tool-heads/lulzbot-taz-dual-extruder-v3-tool-head&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;LulzBot TAZ Dual Extruder v3 Tool Head&lt;/a&gt; says that it can handle all the filament types that I am interested in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is the question: can I use a dual extruder (in particular, the LulzBot TAZ Dual Extruder v3 Tool Head) for general purpose printing (read single extrusion) or do I need to use a single extrusion head for single extrusion print jobs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can use a dual for single use, why buy single extruders (I've been looking at &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.lulzbot.com/store/tool-heads/lulzbot-taz-aerostruder-tool-head&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;LulzBot TAZ Aerostruder Tool Head&lt;/a&gt; for flexy prints) if you can get the same performance out of a dual head?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you should use a single extruder for non-dual prints, please explain the shortcomings of using a dual print head for general purpose use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9834" LastActivityDate="2019-11-02T20:37:23.960" Title="Is a dual extruder a reasonable choice for all-purpose printing" Tags="|dual-nozzle|lulzbot|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5396" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5395" CreationDate="2018-02-04T07:04:38.080" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not an expert by any means but I can’t see any reason you couldn’t use one half of a dual extruder. The benefits of not using one though would be decreased extruder weight. Especially given that this is a direct drive so there will be two stepper motors I believe. Reduced weight means faster print times and a reduction in certain print artifacts such as ringing etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Short answer, if your only ever going to need one extruder probably avoid a dual but if you want the flexibility this should work when a single extruder is required.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9835" LastActivityDate="2018-02-04T07:04:38.080" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5397" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2904" CreationDate="2018-02-04T07:18:21.727" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;So whilst this is not quite what you were talking about I think this is the closest to the effect you’re looking for that I’ve seen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.xyzprinting.com/en-US/product/da-vinci-color&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.xyzprinting.com/en-US/product/da-vinci-color&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This da Vinci printer uses a CMYK inkjet to colour a white filament as its being extruded. This allows for very quick changes in colour as well a nearly infinite combination of colours.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This means it only needs a single extruder and hotend but obviously the hotend needs to be built to allow the injection of pigment from the inkjet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9835" LastActivityDate="2018-02-04T07:18:21.727" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5398" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5151" CreationDate="2018-02-04T07:45:58.077" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I’m not aware of a standard in Openscad but I can share what I have done in the past.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;cutoutActualDiameter = 10;&#xA;cutoutDiameterClearance = 0.1;&#xA;cutoutDiameter = cutoutActualDiameter + cutoutDiameterClearance;&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know this is verbose but unfortunately in my experience that is a necessity if you want your code to be maintainable in Openscad. The benefit of this is that up until you need any clearance added you can just use the variable &lt;code&gt;cutoutDiameter&lt;/code&gt;and then if and when you do need clearance added you can rename that variable and you don’t have to change any of the code where the variable is consumed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would love to hear how others manage this though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9835" LastActivityDate="2018-02-04T07:45:58.077" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5400" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5383" CreationDate="2018-02-04T21:43:56.357" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The controller interface board (that being the RAMPS 1.4 you ask about) should be up to the task and not care WHAT it's printing. You'll probably be creating your own hotend design to pull this off, and if you make it open source, then it will be. I'm envisioning stainless steel, careful temperature control, lots of mixing, perhaps some sort of screw-feed extruder (or batch-fed plunger with the melting and filling under close control on a separate machine, then the hotend on the printer doing a fine and careful job keeping the temperature right at 91.7 °F around the plunger.) You'll have design work to do on the mechanical hardware side, but the electronics and software should be easily adapted. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Read up some on food equipment design to make sure whatever you come up with can be cleaned appropriately for food handling, and uses only food-safe contact surfaces and lubricants/bearings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6853" LastEditorUserId="6853" LastEditDate="2018-02-05T01:00:14.377" LastActivityDate="2018-02-05T01:00:14.377" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5401" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-02-05T04:09:08.453" Score="7" ViewCount="1620" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am designing a moderately complicated piece in OpenScad.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It renders fast enough in preview mode (1s).&#xA;But when i do a full render so I can export to STL,&#xA;it takes ages (In the 10s of minutes)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have read that sometimes the function &lt;code&gt;render&lt;/code&gt; is useful to speed up overall rendering.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is this correct, or have I misunderstood?&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If I have misunderstood, what is the &lt;code&gt;render&lt;/code&gt; function useful for?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How does this work?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In what circumstances can I apply it?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3962" LastEditorUserId="3962" LastEditDate="2018-02-05T14:02:41.173" LastActivityDate="2018-02-06T01:20:14.020" Title="Can the `render` function be used to speed up rendering?" Tags="|3d-design|cad|openscad|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5402" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5404" CreationDate="2018-02-05T12:13:25.300" Score="3" ViewCount="149" Body="&lt;p&gt;I saw an extruder mod on Amazon &lt;em&gt;&quot;EAONE 2 Pcs PTFE Teflon Tube (2 Meters) with 4 Pcs PC4-M6 Fittings for 3D Printer 1.75mm Filament (2.0mm ID/4.0mm OD)&quot;&lt;/em&gt;&#xA;Anybody know how this is fitted?  Is it simply tapping the feed hole on the top?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9614" LastActivityDate="2018-03-12T08:49:21.137" Title="Anet A8 Hot End Spares Quey" Tags="|extruder|anet-a8|ptfe-tube|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5403" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5391" CreationDate="2018-02-05T13:51:07.753" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Take a careful look at the thermistor in the hotend. If it's defective it might well not be providing correct temperature information back to the control board.  As a very quick check, try swapping the thermistor from the bed (if possible), or buy a replacement thermistor and drop it in.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I'm not familiar with the Anet controller but possibly there's a calibration pot on the board; if so it may be causing the digital hardware to mis-read the actual sensed temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2191" LastActivityDate="2018-02-05T13:51:07.753" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5404" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5402" CreationDate="2018-02-05T15:08:00.693" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.amazon.co.uk/EAONE-Teflon-Fittings-Printer-Filament/dp/B077X6FW97&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; what you are referring to?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If yes, the cold end of the extruder is nomally already tapped and you simply have to screw the new fitting in it.  The PTFE tube itself needs just to be fed through the hole in the fitting &lt;strong&gt;until it cannot go any further&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Failing to do so will most likely result in a clog and/or leaking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is a self-locking mechanism, in order to release the tube you have to press &lt;em&gt;down&lt;/em&gt; the plastic flange on top of the fitting while pulling &lt;em&gt;up&lt;/em&gt; the PTFE tube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9134" LastEditorUserId="9134" LastEditDate="2018-02-05T15:18:40.183" LastActivityDate="2018-02-05T15:18:40.183" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5405" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5428" CreationDate="2018-02-05T17:38:06.503" Score="7" ViewCount="2028" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm using a Prusa clone with Ramps 1.4, Marlin 1.1.5 and an inductive proximity sensor Z-probe. Due to the design of the printer, the X and Y end-stops and the Z-probe are not exactly aligned with the heated bed, so I must use Marlin's &lt;a href=&quot;http://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M206.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Home Offset&lt;/a&gt; feature to align the coordinate space to the print area, using the G-code command &lt;code&gt;M206 X-18.5 Y-2.5 Z1.1&lt;/code&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am now attempting to use Marlin's &lt;a href=&quot;http://marlinfw.org/docs/features/unified_bed_leveling.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Unified Bed Leveling&lt;/a&gt; feature to compensate for a slight but significant curvature of the bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately, it appears that the &lt;a href=&quot;http://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/G026.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Mesh Validation Pattern command (G26)&lt;/a&gt; is not taking the Home Offset into account when printing a test pattern. The printed pattern hangs off the left side of the bed and the center printed circle is clearly misaligned with the center of the print bed by the bed offset amount.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does this suggest that my firmware is misconfigured? Or is there an alternative method for aligning the mesh validation test pattern with an offset print bed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8264" LastEditorUserId="8264" LastEditDate="2018-02-15T19:27:24.857" LastActivityDate="2018-02-15T19:27:24.857" Title="Marlin's bed leveling Mesh Validation Pattern ignoring home offset" Tags="|prusa-i3|marlin|calibration|z-probe|bed-leveling|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5408" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5401" CreationDate="2018-02-06T01:20:14.020" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;First a disclaimer: I am far from an expert on the subject, I'm just a regular Joe who happens to use OpenSCAD and have done some experimentation with it.  I believe the answer below to be correct, but I will be very grateful if errors or misconceptions were brought to my attention in the comments. :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I have read that sometimes the function render is useful to speed up overall rendering.  Is this correct, or have I misunderstood?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm unaware if it is possible to use &lt;code&gt;render()&lt;/code&gt; to speed up the &quot;overall rendering&quot;, but &lt;strong&gt;I'm rather confident that the &lt;em&gt;intended purpose&lt;/em&gt; of &lt;code&gt;render()&lt;/code&gt; is to simplify the in-memory representation of the model and thus the responsiveness of the preview window&lt;/strong&gt;, rather than speed-up its final rendering.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;How does this work?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In order to understand how this work, one has to understand how Constructive Solid Geometry (CSG) works.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The entire premise of CSG is that using boolean operations between primitive solid shapes, it is possible to represent complex shapes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, while the human operator may see &lt;em&gt;subtractive&lt;/em&gt; operations like difference and intersection as something that makes the model smaller in volume and thus possibly easier to handle, the computer sees each and every operation as &lt;em&gt;adding&lt;/em&gt; geometry and complexity to the part, as the following image aptly illustrates:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TaMVb.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TaMVb.png&quot; alt=&quot;visuals vs in-memory model&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When manipulating the model in the CAD viewer, OpenSCAD is in the &lt;em&gt;preview mode&lt;/em&gt; and all that &quot;invisible geometry&quot; needs to be processed for each adjustment of the viewport. It is easy to reach a level at which the OpenSCAD viewer will become jittery or unresponsive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What the &lt;code&gt;render()&lt;/code&gt; function does, is telling OpenSCAD to compute the mesh resulting from the boolean operations enclosed in the &lt;code&gt;render()&lt;/code&gt; call, and use that single mesh instead of the underlying boolean-combined primitives when handling the model in the viewer.&lt;/strong&gt;  Meshes are what is normally used in the &lt;em&gt;render mode&lt;/em&gt; of OpenSCAD (F6) rather than in the preview one, but here their advantage is not better visual quality, but the fact that OpenSCAD needs to handle a lot less geometry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;In what circumstances can I apply it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;You can apply it any time you like, really, but it is a trade-off&lt;/strong&gt;: a model that uses the &lt;code&gt;render()&lt;/code&gt; function internally, will take longer to display its initial preview (because generating the mesh is an expensive operation) but it will behave very well in the viewer.  Conversely, a large model that does not leverage &lt;code&gt;render()&lt;/code&gt; will be jittery to handle in the viewer, but it will render to screen in a fraction of the time.  It has to be noted that OpenSCAD make heavy use of caching, so the first preview is the one that will take the longest, while successive ones may be a lot faster.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pxCyK.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pxCyK.png&quot; alt=&quot;small test&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For reference, the code at the bottom of this answer (which generates the image above) behaved like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;With &lt;code&gt;render()&lt;/code&gt;: 15s for the preview, 1m29s more for the proper rendering (&lt;strong&gt;TOTAL: 1m44s&lt;/strong&gt;).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Without &lt;code&gt;render()&lt;/code&gt;: 0s for the preview, 1m45s more for the proper rendering (&lt;strong&gt;TOTAL: 1m45s&lt;/strong&gt;).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;I don't know if the fact that the totals resemble each other is a coincidence peculiar to my model or a general rule of thumb&lt;/strong&gt; (the &lt;code&gt;render()&lt;/code&gt; function effectively creating part of the final rendering during preview), but you are free to play with the code and if you find out a pattern, please leave a comment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the following code, you may need to increase the grid size to 20x20 if you want to see the difference in responsiveness between vanilla code and &lt;code&gt;render()&lt;/code&gt; function.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also remember to close and reopen OpenSCAD between tests, in order to flush the cache.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$fn = 30;&#xA;&#xA;module shape() {&#xA;    render() difference() {&#xA;        sphere();&#xA;        cylinder(r=0.3, h=3, center=true);&#xA;        rotate([90, 0, 0]) cylinder(r=0.3, h=3, center=true);&#xA;        rotate([0, 90, 0]) cylinder(r=0.3, h=3, center=true);&#xA;        rotate([45, 0, 0]) cylinder(r=0.3, h=3, center=true);&#xA;        rotate([-45, 0, 0]) cylinder(r=0.3, h=3, center=true);&#xA;        rotate([0, 45, 0]) cylinder(r=0.3, h=3, center=true);&#xA;        rotate([0, -45, 0]) cylinder(r=0.3, h=3, center=true);&#xA;        rotate([90, 0, 45]) cylinder(r=0.3, h=3, center=true);&#xA;        rotate([90, 0, -45]) cylinder(r=0.3, h=3, center=true);&#xA;    }&#xA;}&#xA;&#xA;module line(x, y) {&#xA;    translate([x * 2, y, 0]) shape();&#xA;    if (x &amp;gt; 0) line(x - 1, y);&#xA;}    &#xA;&#xA;module grid(x, y) {&#xA;    line(x, y * 2);&#xA;    if (y &amp;gt; 0) grid(x, y - 1);&#xA;}&#xA;&#xA;grid(3, 3);&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9134" LastActivityDate="2018-02-06T01:20:14.020" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5409" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5424" CreationDate="2018-02-06T04:36:59.403" Score="2" ViewCount="1138" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an STL that has a flat surface which should contact the build place when 3D printing. The model has an unknown rotation. How can I rotate the 3D model to be flush with the build plate?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am very comfortable with OpenSCAD, and I can use it to rotate the STL if I know the correct angle. Is there a tool that will let me analyze a single face (triangle) of a model to determine it's normal? If I can even get the coordinates from 3 points from the desired face I can calculate the normal and use that to calculate the rotation vector.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9848" LastActivityDate="2018-02-07T09:50:18.030" Title="How can I rotate a 3D model to be parallel with the build plate?" Tags="|3d-models|software|file-formats|analysis|stl|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5410" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5372" CreationDate="2018-02-06T08:50:07.833" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;First of all, thanks for all the help, it really is a nice community!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But none of them actually helped and I finally find out what to actually do to fix the problem so here it goes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Extruder temperature didn't change anything (made it worse under 190°C/374°F)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Speed didn't change anything (tried as low as 10mm/s)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Z tuning didn't change anything&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Using 0.3mm layers instead of 0.2mm made it slightly better but still completely unusable&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;So, what did the trick?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I figured that it was extreme warping, so heating up the heatbed to 80°C/176°F and the first layer comes down really good, for the rest of the print I use normal temperatures and it works okay. For overhangs I bump some degrees and point a small squirrel cage fan on the overhang.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think the filament is damaged or that this particular color might be a bit different than other colors, but well, now it works!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[Edit] From a recent firmware upgrade the heatbed PID was disabled, re-enabling it really made it simpler too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8328" LastEditorUserId="8328" LastEditDate="2018-02-14T09:06:04.233" LastActivityDate="2018-02-14T09:06:04.233" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5412" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5097" CreationDate="2018-02-06T10:49:29.797" Score="3" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;and found out it has a resistance of 1.5kΩ, while it should have a resistance of 4.7kΩ, so I suspect this is the main reason behind this high reading. Now the only thing left to figure out is how the resistance of this resistor changed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can't measure the resistance of a resistor in circuit - the resistance probably appears to be lower to your multimeter because of some other circuit elements. There's also no reasonable explanation for how a 4.7k resistor could suddenly turn into a 1.5k one. It's highly unlikely this resistor is the cause of your issues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is more likely something else is damaged, likely the AtMega1284p microcontroller itself. When your extruder touched the bed clip, perhaps the 12V from the bed shorted through the clip and to the extruder? I would guess that the 12V shorted itself to the thermistor input, which subsequently blew the ESD protection diode on that input. This might explain the high reading and the low apparent resistance of R41.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastEditorUserId="26" LastEditDate="2018-02-06T12:35:42.220" LastActivityDate="2018-02-06T12:35:42.220" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5413" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5415" CreationDate="2018-02-06T12:59:13.713" Score="4" ViewCount="4715" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had been printing with ABS and took the advice to alter the fan so I can see the filament when I am loading it into the cold end. It was tricky but doable. I am now trying with PLA and getting it to line up with the whole is a nightmare. Can the driving cog and guide wheel be moved? A couple of mm would stop the driving cog pushing the filament off line.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9614" LastActivityDate="2021-01-15T22:45:57.053" Title="Anet A8 hard to insert filament" Tags="|pla|extruder|anet-a8|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5414" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5420" CreationDate="2018-02-06T13:48:19.880" Score="5" ViewCount="1989" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a homemade 3D printer running on ramps 1.4&#xA;When i start a new print and the hotend reaches melting point of PLA, the PLA start coming out of the hotend.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;This goes on for as long as the temperature is kept above melting point, without moving the extrusion gear.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The extruder is a bowden type.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Hotend is a J-head.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I am currently using simplify if that makes any difference regarding configuration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas what to do to prevent this from happening?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9853" LastEditorUserId="9134" LastEditDate="2018-02-08T11:05:43.743" LastActivityDate="2018-02-08T11:06:55.317" Title="Filament starts extruding as soon as hotend reaches melting point" Tags="|pla|ramps-1.4|extrusion|simplify3d|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5415" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5413" CreationDate="2018-02-06T14:32:33.743" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was having the same issue as you and know what you are talking about and there is a file that you should print that will help you (I have printed this).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While the file says for the Anet A6, I think the extrude are the same on the Anet A8. It goes under the gear and bearing and guides the filament to the hole. Should work well for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other things that you can do is straighten out the filament. That is what I do, it helps that much more. You can also cut the end at a angle to sharpen the end with a pencil sharpener, also helps find the hole. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So try the file, I think it will help you would. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;File --&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2242903&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2242903&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8835" LastActivityDate="2018-02-06T14:32:33.743" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5417" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5414" CreationDate="2018-02-06T16:47:42.043" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does it really go on for more than a minute or so?  You can't get filament from nowhere, so if the feed gear isn't moving, sooner or later all the material in the reservoir inside the nozzle &amp;amp; hotend will be melted and gone.  Leakage like this is normal, and probably a lot more noticeable if you have a larger diameter nozzle.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would recommend checking to see if your gcode includes a large retraction at the end of the print.  That would reduce the pressure and the amount of material left inside the hotend.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2191" LastActivityDate="2018-02-06T16:47:42.043" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5418" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-02-06T18:00:34.917" Score="5" ViewCount="1477" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd like to attach a piece I printed out of PLA to a small titanium rod. I've previously used Superglue (cyanoacrylate) to glue PLA pieces to each other with great success, but the problem is that if you don't apply it perfectly cleanly, it leaves very noticeable stains on the PLA.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can anyone recommend a good glue for this application that won't leave stains like that? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8572" LastActivityDate="2021-06-21T12:07:51.513" Title="Glue for attaching PLA pieces to titanium" Tags="|pla|post-processing|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5419" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-02-06T19:34:20.393" Score="5" ViewCount="55" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am still trying to dial in my Anet A8.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Marlin firmware takes too long to scroll through the axis settings when I change them, so I use Repetier Host instead issuing &lt;code&gt;M92&lt;/code&gt; followed by &lt;code&gt;M500&lt;/code&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I noticed in the log window that X goes in as typed but that Y has a &lt;code&gt;*75&lt;/code&gt; after the value i input. Can anybody tell me why/what it is for? I suspect I know what it does just no idea why it is doing it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9614" LastEditorUserId="9697" LastEditDate="2018-02-07T12:06:42.893" LastActivityDate="2018-02-07T18:32:40.153" Title="Extra data appended to the Y values when issuing `M92` &amp; `M500`" Tags="|g-code|calibration|repetier-host|anet-a8|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5420" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5414" CreationDate="2018-02-06T20:58:17.023" Score="3" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Any ideas what to do to prevent this from happening?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You cannot prevent it entirely, but &lt;strong&gt;you can probably mitigate the problem by depressing the lever that squashes the filament against the hobbed gear of the extruder&lt;/strong&gt; before starting to heat the nozzle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In bowden extruders, the long portion of filament between the stepper motor and the nozzle is subject to compression during the print.  Because of the hysteresis in the filament, and of the slack between filament and PTFE tube, this filament acts like a slow-releasing compression spring.  When the nozzle cools down, the potential energy stored in the filament is &quot;frozen&quot; in place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By depressing the lever, you allow the spring to extend &quot;backward&quot; towards the spool, rather than &quot;forward&quot; through the nozzle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some oozing is still bound to happen because of gravity and - as highlighted by others - thermal expansion, but it should be significantly less.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;If you adopt the lever trick, remember to print with a skirt&lt;/strong&gt;, as you will want the printer to recreate that &quot;compression&quot; in the filament before the model proper begins.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Another way to address the issue would be to add a little bit of retraction&lt;/strong&gt; in the closing stanza of your GCODE (the part where you also tell the printer to unpower the steppers and stop heating).  This will prevent any &quot;compression&quot; to be &quot;frozen&quot; in the first place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This anwer is based on the assumption that the stepper motor is not actively spinning (i.e.: yours is not a hardware/firmware issue).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9134" LastEditorUserId="9134" LastEditDate="2018-02-08T11:06:55.317" LastActivityDate="2018-02-08T11:06:55.317" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5421" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5418" CreationDate="2018-02-06T22:57:22.840" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been a fan of epoxies for unusual adhesion problems. I found on &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B000FW6322&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Amazon a product with titanium&lt;/a&gt; in the name, but there's a caution regarding polypropylene plastics. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DfKGn.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DfKGn.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;titanium epoxy&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PLA is not of that family of plastic, which gives it a good chance of success. Epoxy is typically more viscous than cyanoacrylates, giving you a bit more control of the application, but also creating the need for care with &quot;ooze-out.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The big glue company, Gorilla, also makes an &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B001Z3C3AG&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;epoxy&lt;/a&gt; that includes plastic and metal in the adhesion listing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Y1OTc.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Y1OTc.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;gorilla epoxy&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As PLA is somewhat sensitive to heat, one would consider that fast-cure epoxies generate more heat than slow-cure epoxy, but the amounts you'll be using are not likely to create enough for concern.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastActivityDate="2018-02-06T22:57:22.840" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5422" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-02-07T08:03:25.533" Score="8" ViewCount="415" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am currently building my own 3D printer, it is all set and ready to go but I seem to be having issues with the silicone heat bed I purchased.  The motherboard I use is from the Flashforge Creator Pro for it allows me to use dual print heads.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The silicone heater bed I purchased has 3 leads with the capabilities to be run three phase which was something I did not ask for nor did I expect. Now I've noticed that when I plug it into my board, the board says that it is sending power to the bed but it doesn't seem to heat up. Also when I wire its thermistor, in it keeps reading around 110°C at initial startup and would not recognize room temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One last thing, my power supply is a 24v rather than the standard 12v. I'm stuck because I have no idea how to resolve these issues. Do I need a different heat bed altogether or should I make it 3 phase and if I do how would I go about doing so? The pictures are too large so here are the links:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://drive.google.com/file/d/1fNCc2aKJic9ACn1d8CVDnzHJbwI_SPab/view?usp=sharing&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://drive.google.com/file/d/1fNCc2aKJic9ACn1d8CVDnzHJbwI_SPab/view?usp=sharing&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://drive.google.com/file/d/15RtSgFpN_p6zr2ynQqLlLJ-FU4XQ7G67/view?usp=sharing&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://drive.google.com/file/d/15RtSgFpN_p6zr2ynQqLlLJ-FU4XQ7G67/view?usp=sharing&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B2mY70_iFEAGckloR0RyRENNYW8/view?usp=sharing&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B2mY70_iFEAGckloR0RyRENNYW8/view?usp=sharing&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9861" LastEditorUserId="9134" LastEditDate="2018-02-07T14:59:16.080" LastActivityDate="2018-02-07T14:59:16.080" Title="Heat bed troubles" Tags="|heated-bed|diy-3d-printer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5423" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5413" CreationDate="2018-02-07T08:19:10.700" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;On the A8, the idler wheel is fixed, but ought to be in-line with the top of the hot-end if everything is properly assembled. You can also check that the top of the throat is smoothly finished (it should be OK, but you might have a poorly manufactured example).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4927" LastActivityDate="2018-02-07T08:19:10.700" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5424" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5409" CreationDate="2018-02-07T09:50:18.030" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some tools like Cura or Repetier Host have slicers that analyses and tell you if it is ok to print or not. Both of them allow rotations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9830" LastActivityDate="2018-02-07T09:50:18.030" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5425" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5422" CreationDate="2018-02-07T10:45:57.420" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;What you purchased is probably a bed that can be configured for either 110V or for 220V, depending on how you hook up the wires: the bed contains two heating elements, hooking these up in parallel gives you the 110V version, hooking them up in series gives you the 220V one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you attempt to use this bed with a 24V supply it won't work. The power dissipated by a heater is proportional to the voltage squared. Depending on which way you hook up this bed, you'd either get 1.2% of the designed power (220V mode hooked up to 24V), 4.8% (110V mode hooked up to 24V) or 2.4% (one half of the 110V circuit hooked up to 24V).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If my assumptions are correct (which you could verify using a multimeter to measure the resistance between the various pairs of wires), then the only way to use this bed is to connect it to mains power and use a (solid-state) relay to control it. However, please get advice from somebody experienced in working with mains electronics before doing this. Do not attempt this on your own.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastActivityDate="2018-02-07T10:45:57.420" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5426" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5418" CreationDate="2018-02-07T10:53:02.833" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;A glue gun would IMO work very well, and you can use transparent (or almost transparent) glue sticks to minimize ugly looking stains.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Things glued together usually break before the glue (in my experience) and it's cheap, you can get one for $10 with some glue sticks. It's fun too, I glue everything since I bought one :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8328" LastActivityDate="2018-02-07T10:53:02.833" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5427" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5419" CreationDate="2018-02-07T11:04:08.760" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;code&gt;*75&lt;/code&gt; is the checksum value, (a method for verifying the integrity of the transmitted information).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#.2A:_Checksum&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;RepRap wiki gcode : checksum&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is probably an option to not use/disable checksum generation in repetier/slicers, however this may only be advantageous for use with code run from the sdcard as it is extra processing (and probably less relevant when not being transmitted over serial connection. )&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9697" LastEditorUserId="9134" LastEditDate="2018-02-07T18:32:40.153" LastActivityDate="2018-02-07T18:32:40.153" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5428" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5405" CreationDate="2018-02-07T11:10:48.820" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;A Marlin developer confirmed that &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/issues/9507#issuecomment-363423032&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;bed-leveling and probing are now performed entirely in the machine coordinate space&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To clarify further, if one has a non-zero home offset enabled, the following commands refer to different physical locations despite the supplied parameters being the same:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;M206  X10  Y10 ;  Set a home offset in X and Y&#xA;G30  X100 Y100 ;  Probe (100, 100) in machine space&#xA;G0   X100 Y100 ;  Move to (100, 100) in print space, ie. (90, 90) in machine coordinate space&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was able to correctly align the bed-leveling grid by altering header files in the source code. I defined the XY offset using two new macros &lt;code&gt;BED_OFFSET_X&lt;/code&gt; and &lt;code&gt;BED_OFFSET_Y&lt;/code&gt; in &lt;code&gt;Configuraion.h&lt;/code&gt; and altered the following lines in &lt;code&gt;Conditionals_post.h&lt;/code&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#define X_CENTER ((X_BED_SIZE) / 2) + BED_OFFSET_X&#xA;#define Y_CENTER ((Y_BED_SIZE) / 2) + BED_OFFSET_Y&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The mesh is now physically aligned with the bed and I have not observed any adverse effects.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8264" LastActivityDate="2018-02-07T11:10:48.820" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5429" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5418" CreationDate="2018-02-07T12:58:49.233" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Try using one of the &quot;gooey&quot; forms of cyanoacrylate.  Any of the major brands sells this-- it has the consistency of toothpaste, so it  won't &quot;run&quot; along your pieces.  Here's one that I've used with success:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B003Y49R7G/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;loctite goo&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2191" LastActivityDate="2018-02-07T12:58:49.233" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5430" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5444" CreationDate="2018-02-07T23:27:02.397" Score="3" ViewCount="5281" Body="&lt;p&gt;I read that the best way of removing ABS was to let the temperature at the hot end to drop to around 190deg c then a sharp pull. This worked really well. I am trying to print with PLA but no matter what temperature I drop the hot end to I get left with a length of PLA in the feeder tube. OK I can heat the hot end and poke the excess down with a wire but that is a pain. I think the technique is right but the temperature is wrong. Any help great fully appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9614" LastActivityDate="2021-01-22T22:44:43.947" Title="Removing pla from extruder" Tags="|pla|extruder|anet-a8|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5431" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5430" CreationDate="2018-02-08T01:00:54.050" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;One resource you can use is called the &lt;a href=&quot;https://rigid.ink/blogs/news/how-to-use-3d-printer-cleaning-filament&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;nylon cleaning method&lt;/a&gt;. It works by setting nylon filament temperatures, pushing nylon filament into the nozzle until only nylon is extruding, then cooling the hot end to a specific temperature. The page linked suggests a hard yank, but I disagree. Brutality is not a recommended action for 3D printers, in my opinion. When I use the NCM and the hot end reaches the correct cooler temperature, I use pliers and lever them against a suitable surface. The lever action is slower, yet the mechanical advantage is increased, making removal easier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some 3D printer users disagree with the expense of nylon, which is, on the surface, excessive. I've found that I am able to see light through the hot-end after using this method, however, so I find the expense justified by a completely clean filament path.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The above linked page also includes the modification of this method for use with the same type of filament to be cleaned, in your case PLA.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Consider that you should be able to use ABS to pull PLA from the nozzle. Heat the nozzle to the lower end of your ABS filament temperature and push or extrude until you get the ABS color. Allow the hot end to cool to the low end of PLA temperatures and reverse the extruder/pull out the filament.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you use contrasting color filament (for example, white PLA, black ABS) you should be able to see the ABS collecting the other color as you remove it. Eventually, you would have no contrasting color, indicating that the previous filament has been removed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastActivityDate="2018-02-08T01:00:54.050" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5432" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5435" CreationDate="2018-02-08T03:09:25.973" Score="2" ViewCount="77" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some filaments suggest &quot;reducing cross-sectional area&quot; of the print. Is this referring to the vertical plane or horizontal plane? In other words, if I were to print a rectangular prism, would I want the long side of it printed in the vertical direction or parallel to the print bed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9552" LastActivityDate="2018-02-08T16:45:10.510" Title="reducing cross-sectional area" Tags="|print-quality|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5433" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-02-08T05:36:39.727" Score="4" ViewCount="385" Body="&lt;p&gt;I built a 3D printer kit a while back but now I want a large printer to play with. I would like to build a 300x300x400 mm clone of a 3D printer. But I am not sure what size lead screws to buy. They come in 300 mm length but once you connect the coupler and the to the screw that takes 20 mm's that the axis can not travel too so isn't it more like 280 mm length? Or do most people round up to the next size?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9872" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2024-01-20T15:05:41.637" LastActivityDate="2024-01-20T15:16:08.107" Title="What size is the lead screw?" Tags="|printer-building|lead-screw|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5434" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5437" CreationDate="2018-02-08T06:55:21.307" Score="16" ViewCount="24328" Body="&lt;p&gt;I made and assembled my own 3D printer two years ago and I notice that some extruders are MK6 and MK(*whatever). Some of them has the block fuser horizontal and others vertical, then uses a nozzle longer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The block heater that I made was an aluminum block 20x20x10 mm using the M6 short nozzle. Then adapted the radiator to upgrade to Jhead heater.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I wanted to know to which group belongs my printer, as base is a prusa clone with direct extrusion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4454" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-04-28T22:41:29.290" LastActivityDate="2020-04-28T22:41:29.290" Title="Which is the difference between MK6 and MK8 and even MK10?" Tags="|extruder|hotend|nozzle|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5435" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5432" CreationDate="2018-02-08T07:49:36.890" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Based on your link in the comment, &lt;strong&gt;the cross-sectional area is the one on the X-Y axis&lt;/strong&gt; (horizontal).  The least area, the least material there is &quot;pulling up&quot; (curling) the layer when the plastic cools down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When it comes to your specific question:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;if I were to print a rectangular prism, would I want the long side of it printed in the vertical direction or parallel to the print bed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;...&lt;strong&gt;the answer is not as simple as &quot;long side vertical&quot;&lt;/strong&gt;, as you want both little warping &lt;em&gt;and&lt;/em&gt; strong parts and the two may be better achieved by differen orientations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally I &lt;strong&gt;would base my choice on the intended application&lt;/strong&gt;: as the difference between the Z and the X+Y axis is their behaviour under load is &lt;em&gt;substantial&lt;/em&gt;.  FDM artefacts are anisotropic: they resist very well to compression along the Z or tension along the X &amp;amp; Y axis, but are weak along the same axis if you invert the direction of the force applied. Again: this difference is not marginal but &lt;em&gt;substantial&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keep in mind that &quot;area&quot; is actually &quot;printed area&quot;, so you could have a model with a large footprint but a small printed area (think to the bottom of a Tour Eiffel model, or to a pipe standing up).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Were I to experience warping or poor adhesion with a specific model, I would reduce the cross-sectional area in the model (by adding relief cuts and/or cavities) or in the slicer (by decreasing the density of the infill) or would tackle the issue fror another angle, for example by switching the bed  material (some specialised surface with good adhesion for the type of filament in use) or creating the object I wanted with an assembly rather than in a solid piece...  But again: it would be a second-order consideration for me, and I would worry about it only if the problem were &lt;em&gt;actually&lt;/em&gt; manifesting for that specific model.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example: say that I were to print the head of a hammer.  I would print it with the surface that hits the nail parallel to the printing bed so that the &lt;em&gt;compression&lt;/em&gt; force resulting from hitting a nail would be along the &lt;em&gt;Z axis&lt;/em&gt;.  The link of a chain?  Flat on the bed, so that the &lt;em&gt;pulling&lt;/em&gt; forces from stretching the chain would be aligned with the &lt;em&gt;X and Y axis&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9134" LastEditorUserId="9134" LastEditDate="2018-02-08T16:34:15.753" LastActivityDate="2018-02-08T16:34:15.753" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5436" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5433" CreationDate="2018-02-08T08:19:36.310" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You'll need to do some calculation to figure out how long of a lead screw you need. The best solution would be to mock up the entire printer in CAD so you can visualize how everything fits together. Not only is the coupler going to take up some space, but the nut also takes up some space, and perhaps (due to design constraints) you won't be able to have the nut go up right against the coupler so you'll need some more space. Unfortunately, there isn't a general &quot;just take the length of your Z-axis and add X millimeters&quot;-type formula.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastActivityDate="2018-02-08T08:19:36.310" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5437" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5434" CreationDate="2018-02-08T11:47:56.497" Score="19" Body="&lt;p&gt;All credits for the following go to user &quot;vermon&quot; who posted in &lt;a href=&quot;https://groups.google.com/forum/m/#!topic/wanhao-printer-3d/TEdslEknny4&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;this thread&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The following is a &lt;strong&gt;heavily amended&lt;/strong&gt; version from his longer answer there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Makerbot did start its hotend series using MK as iteration designator (for &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mark_(designation)&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Mark&lt;/a&gt;). The first commercially available version was the [Makerbot] MK4 on the &lt;em&gt;Cupcake&lt;/em&gt; circa 2009. MK4 was hand built with nichrome wire heaters and prone to all kinds of failures. They only worked with ABS and 3&amp;nbsp;mm filament.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Following here, Makerbot was skipped as a manufacturer and that it is the hotend we talk about. The correct nomenclature would be &lt;em&gt;Makerbot Hotend MK#&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;MK5 was a complete redesign and had huge nozzles and a thick PTFE liner. It used 2 large power resistors in parallel for heating and was also prone to failure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;MK6 was the first hotend sold as a kit that I know of (however Repraps had also started using them probably before).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mk6+ was the first cartridge heater hotend sold in kit form. The MK5/MK6 heater block was stainless steel, where MK6+ upgrade kit was an aluminum block that was slightly smaller, a lot lighter, and had the now standard 1/4 inch heater cartridge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;MK7 was the first hotend you folks would think looks familiar. It was the first move to 1.75&amp;nbsp;mm filament dedicated extruders. While a MK6+kit had parts to adapt to 1.75&amp;nbsp;mm filament, it never worked well at all and was really a failure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Again, this is all Thing-O-Matic and Cupcake era. Other than a few clones, there really was no third party market in the US at this time. You either had a MakerBot or some other Reprap based kit. Wanhao, FlashForge- they didn't even exist and if they did, weren't talked about like now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;MK8 was the all new dual extruder hotend setup on the MakerBot Replicator. The cooling bar was thicker than the MK7 but the same all metal thermal barrier and supposedly, the MK8 has slightly different nozzle geometry internally and externally.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;MK9 was a MK8 hotend, cooling bar, thermal barrier, and nozzle, but the new feeder with spring lever we know on all current models. This is why it's confusing, MK9 was a feeder upgrade, not a hotend change.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;MK10 was a complete change of the hotend. MK10 uses smooth OD thermal barriers with a larger 4&amp;nbsp;mm OD 2&amp;nbsp;mm ID PTFE liner. MK10 also uses M7 threads, vs the M6 of all previous models. This is because a 4&amp;nbsp;mm PTFE liner is barely enough metal to make the outer tube with M6 threads. MK10 is completely incompatible with all previous hotend parts. Every part is different. MK10 still uses MK9 feeder parts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;MK11 on the D6 is just an MK10 nozzle and thermal barrier, but a different heater block and the cooling bar is part of the D6 central cross. Again, the only real difference is MK11 is a different heater block, and that's to adapt a different and longer heater cartridge and slide in the thermocouple. MK11 still uses MK9 plastic feeder parts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I wanted to know to which group belongs my printer, as base is a Prusa clone with direct extrusion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;This question seem difficult to answer concretely&lt;/strong&gt;, as the number in the series seem to be assigned based on a combination of heating block technology and format, the feeder geometry and the nozzle shape and thread that was adopted on the MakerBot printers.  &lt;strong&gt;Your actual combination of those three may not exist in the MakerBot universe.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suggest you read the full, unabridged version of the post linked above though, as more details relevant to your inquiry may be disclosed there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9134" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-04-21T19:51:49.163" LastActivityDate="2019-04-21T19:51:49.163" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5438" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5432" CreationDate="2018-02-08T14:39:39.527" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;My guess is, based on the fact that this is ABS and the same paragraph recommends an heated bed, that they mean you should avoid layers with large continuous areas because those can be problematic with ABS if your heat is not very well controlled.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically while you are printing the upper part the lower part is cooling, and ABS shrinks as it cools, short strands shrink by a little and apply little force to the print while long strands shrink by a lot (same percentage, but more length - because they are longer to begin with) apply a lot of force and pull the edges of the print of the bed&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;so they suggest the shorter sides be on the X and Y and the longer side be on the Z axis.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that this will make materials with high shrinkage and low bed adhesion like ABS easier to print - this will not make the resulting part stronger or in any way better&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="170" LastActivityDate="2018-02-08T14:39:39.527" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5439" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5430" CreationDate="2018-02-08T15:43:29.467" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In line w/ Fred.U's answer,  I've been pretty comfortable with the following sequence.  Assume a cold start with a filament in the feeder (and cold gunk in the hotend).&lt;br&gt;&#xA;1) bring the hotend up to 5 degreesC over your usual extrusion temp for the filament currently in place.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;2) If the filament doesn't pull out easily (possible clump at the end), push the filament down and hold it there so the end fully softens/melts. Then remove the filament.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;3) Load the new filament desired and push it down until the new material flows freely out of the nozzle.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2191" LastActivityDate="2018-02-08T15:43:29.467" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5442" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5389" CreationDate="2018-02-08T17:15:32.223" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;To expand on the #3 solution: reducing the elasticity of the system, if you have your filament mounted on the top of your printer, placing the filament elsewhere on a separate spool holder can also reduce ghosting. Tightening the belts and moving my filament got rid of ghosting for me on my MP Maker Select.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9880" LastActivityDate="2018-02-08T17:15:32.223" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5443" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5430" CreationDate="2018-02-08T19:46:54.860" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;So with my PLA I heat the nozzle to 180*C, just enough to get it to melt. Push the filament through a little, maybe until a half-inch or so comes through. Once I got that I pull it out as quick as I can. It should not be forceful, meaning no resistance, should just come right out. I have never had a issue doing this and I can switch to a new color or plastic without problems, only having to extrude 4&quot; to get the leftover PLA out of the nozzle. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hopefully this will help you out a little with this issue. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8835" LastActivityDate="2018-02-08T19:46:54.860" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5444" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5430" CreationDate="2018-02-08T20:33:43.173" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Looks like I had a gap between the hot end and the screwed rod. A gap filled with cool pla. A sort of washer for want of a better description. Will let you know if heating above temp is the answer &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9614" LastActivityDate="2018-02-08T20:33:43.173" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5445" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5662" CreationDate="2018-02-09T07:18:03.403" Score="5" ViewCount="6233" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd like to mirror a triangular prism I made. However, whenever I select it I am only able to select the faces or sides.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a way to select the whole 3D object to move or mirror it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9884" LastEditorUserId="19168" LastEditDate="2019-11-26T13:12:14.930" LastActivityDate="2019-11-26T13:12:14.930" Title="In Fusion 360 how do I select an entire 3D object, not just its sides or faces?" Tags="|software|cad|fusion360|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5447" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5450" CreationDate="2018-02-09T10:44:18.653" Score="11" ViewCount="7288" Body="&lt;p&gt;When using &lt;code&gt;G1&lt;/code&gt; command in G-code, what is the difference between &lt;code&gt;Z&lt;/code&gt;- axis and &lt;code&gt;E&lt;/code&gt;- axis?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I see all &lt;code&gt;E&lt;/code&gt;, &lt;code&gt;F&lt;/code&gt; and &lt;code&gt;Z&lt;/code&gt; in&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;G1 Z0.350 F7800.000&#xA;G1 E-2.00000 F2400.00000&#xA;G92 E0&#xA;G1 X96.753 Y95.367 F7800.000&#xA;G1 E2.00000 F2400.00000&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9887" LastEditorUserId="9887" LastEditDate="2018-02-09T10:49:50.910" LastActivityDate="2022-08-31T05:55:58.667" Title="E axis vs Z axis" Tags="|g-code|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5448" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5447" CreationDate="2018-02-09T11:26:40.557" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;z-axis refers typically to vertical movement&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;F references are feed rates/movement rates&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;E references are for the extruder, referencing the amount and speed to eject filament, negative e-values are retraction commands&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastActivityDate="2018-02-09T11:26:40.557" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5450" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5447" CreationDate="2018-02-09T15:23:49.480" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;G-CODE can be confusing as historically it was &lt;a href=&quot;http://ws680.nist.gov/publication/get_pdf.cfm?pub_id=823374&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;developed for machining tools&lt;/a&gt; rather than FDM printers, and thus:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;not all available commands make sense for a 3D printer&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;some of the command do slightly different things than those one may intuitively think they do.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Typically, Cartesian printers use 4 &quot;axis&quot;: &lt;code&gt;X&lt;/code&gt;, &lt;code&gt;Y&lt;/code&gt; and &lt;code&gt;Z&lt;/code&gt; for moving the printhead in space and &lt;code&gt;E&lt;/code&gt; for &quot;extruder&quot;.  The &quot;extruder axis&quot; is not in fact at all an axis in the geometrical sense of the word: it refers to the amount of filament to be moved into (extruded) or out of (retracted) the printing head.  The reason why it is considered an &quot;axis&quot; is that it is used in conjunction with the codes &lt;code&gt;G0&lt;/code&gt; and &lt;code&gt;G1&lt;/code&gt; which are for movement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Confusingly, the letter &lt;code&gt;E&lt;/code&gt; is &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/G-code#Letter_addresses&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;used for the precision feedrate of lathes&lt;/a&gt; but in the 3D printing world we rather use &lt;code&gt;F&lt;/code&gt; to that purpose.  As a non-native English speaker, I was further confused, because for the longest time I thought &quot;feedrate&quot; was referring to the amount of filament &lt;em&gt;fed&lt;/em&gt; to the printing head, while in fact it is the speed at which the printing head moves (in mm/minute).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So to summarise, your example code &quot;translated&quot; would look like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;G1 Z0.350 F7800.000           ; move up 350 microns at 7.8 m/min&#xA;G1 E-2.00000 F2400.00000      ; retract 2mm of filament at 2.4 m/min&#xA;G92 E0                        ; reset the extruder position&#xA;G1 X96.753 Y95.367 F7800.000  ; move to X,Y (without changing Z) at 7.8 m/min&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should you wish to dig deeper into the topic, the &lt;a href=&quot;http://reprap.org/wiki/G-code&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;RepRap wiki page on gcode&lt;/a&gt; is rather comprehensive.  Mind that several manufacturers add their own &quot;special codes&quot; to the common ones....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9134" LastEditorUserId="9134" LastEditDate="2018-02-09T18:58:02.497" LastActivityDate="2018-02-09T18:58:02.497" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5451" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5466" CreationDate="2018-02-10T00:17:25.573" Score="2" ViewCount="4095" Body="&lt;p&gt;I realize this issue (warping) has been repeatedly addressed on this site. I've just graduated to high-temp filaments (PC in particular). I don't know much of the physics of this. I'm wondering whether the degree to which the filament contracts is proportional to the amount that it cools. If the answer is yes, then wouldn't it suggest that a lower printing temperature might reduce warping-as the temperature interval over which the filament cools is smaller? Or perhaps the difference is negligible?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, I see a lot of emphasis placed on good first layer adhesion. Is this still an issue if you are printing on a raft?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9552" LastActivityDate="2018-02-12T01:20:02.327" Title="Will lowering print temperature help warping?" Tags="|warping|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5452" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5451" CreationDate="2018-02-10T02:25:17.930" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can't address polycarbonate specifically, but can provide a general overview of the higher temperature filament considerations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Printing on a raft means that the adhesion temperature of the filament is accomplished. This temperature is the factor to be considered if you are thinking of dropping the printing temperature. If you drop below recommended minimums, you risk losing adhesion to the build plate and also inter-layer bonding. That alone means one should use caution when dropping printing temperatures. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Printing with a raft usually means the model's individual parts have such a small footprint that they would not remain bonded to the build plate. Rafts are also used on printers with an uncertain planar surface or irregularities in the surface. That's not applicable to this question, generally speaking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your question about contraction being proportional to the amount of cooling is perhaps misdirected. One could consider that the printing temperature is a manufacturer specified value and the cooled temperature would be generally considered room temperature. Room temperature would be addressed as a range, rather than a single value, but even as a range, there isn't going to be a big percentage of variation in the calculation involving the print temp/room temp.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My experience with the higher temperatures is more related to the volume of material per cross section (in all three dimensions). A printed model of substantial height with a relatively small horizontal cross section (think cylinder) is likely to have much less distortion in the x/y plane and greater distortion along the z-axis. The mass of filament cooling in the z-direction generates greater force than the smaller mass on the x/y axes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another factor in such thought processes is that layers are on the x/y axes and the strength of the extruded plastic is more homogeneous through the nozzle, while the z-direction creates inter-layer discontinuities, making warping and delamination easier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've found that I can reduce (but not eliminate) warping and delamination if I am able to maintain chamber temperature for longer periods and reduce temperature slowly. Unfortunately, I have a semi-enclosed printer and the heat loss is dependent partly on the ambient air temperature. A fully enclosed heated printer with auxiliary heating under some form of control may give you the best results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastActivityDate="2018-02-10T02:25:17.930" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5454" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5493" CreationDate="2018-02-10T07:55:45.890" Score="1" ViewCount="574" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was wondering if is possible to send printing using the software MACH3 for CNC since this software can handle up to 3 axes: X,Y,Z,A,B and C.&#xA;Of course the CNC needs an extra control for temperature which I already have it; My CNC handle a Z axis with 150mm height, so I could print higher parts than normal CNC.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4454" LastEditorUserId="4454" LastEditDate="2018-02-10T08:03:00.817" LastActivityDate="2018-02-14T07:46:52.917" Title="is possible to send printing with mach3?" Tags="|printer-building|cnc|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5456" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="475" CreationDate="2018-02-10T12:26:21.293" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Make sure your controller board/electronics board etc is as cool as possible - if not the axis may jump - that's what happened with me - after adding additional fans over the Ramps/Adruino - I did not have the problem again (so far)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9902" LastActivityDate="2018-02-10T12:26:21.293" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5457" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-02-10T13:43:08.990" Score="4" ViewCount="144" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have this .stl file and I sent it to a company for printing, they claimed that the file is not ready for printing and is charging me more money for them to fix the error. What can I do to make the file &quot;ready for printing&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9903" LastActivityDate="2018-02-10T14:19:12.780" Title=".stl file is &quot;not ready for printing&quot;" Tags="|stl|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5458" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5457" CreationDate="2018-02-10T14:19:12.780" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&quot;Not ready for printing&quot; isn't a very specific description of a problem. There are countless things that could be wrong with an STL file that could render it unprintable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An STL file is basically a collection of triangles in 3D. These triangles need to be &lt;strong&gt;manifold/watertight&lt;/strong&gt;: they need to enclose a volume that represents the object to be printed. For instance, a very simple STL file could contain 4 triangles defining a tetrahedron/pyramid. However, if there is something wrong with the file - for instance, the edges of two triangles might not meet up exactly, then the file is not printable because the triangles, together, no longer enclose a volume.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are various free and paid tools out there that automatically attempt to fix your STL file. Depending on how bad your file is, you might be able to use one of these tools to fix it. If you do this, be sure to carefully inspect the result to make sure the tool did what you intended. Examples include MeshLab, Netfabb and various online services (Microsoft 3D tools, MakePrintable).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the problems with your file are so bad they can not be fixed automatically, then the only option will be a - potentially - very laborious manual process of fixing the file. This might mean rebuilding the model from scratch. It is not unreasonable that the company would charge you for this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even if your model is manifold/watertight, there are other reasons it might not be printable. For instance, the walls might be too thin, or there might be certain features in the model that can not be printed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You did not specify the source of your model. Certain pieces of CAD software are more likely to produce unprintable STL files than others, SketchUp is a particularly bad offender. Also, 3D models from games are almost always unprintable. They're designed to look good on screen, but are not designed at all with printability in mind.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastActivityDate="2018-02-10T14:19:12.780" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5460" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5390" CreationDate="2018-02-10T16:55:24.193" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Found the solution, I had to swap the cables on the board, now they are working.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9830" LastActivityDate="2018-02-10T16:55:24.193" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5461" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5463" CreationDate="2018-02-10T17:14:35.423" Score="2" ViewCount="68" Body="&lt;p&gt;That's my first 3d printer. I'm using Repetier Host as the brand recomends, and set all the configuration as the recommended one. I decided to print one STL file but the result is not the best one.&#xA;That's what I was trying to print:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/f1V22.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/f1V22.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;handle&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;and that's what I've got.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iPEfT.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iPEfT.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;cr*p print&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;Here you have a video of the impression. &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HDdBQL44R3M&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;it is a G2S pro rostock mini&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9830" LastActivityDate="2018-02-12T15:01:03.200" Title="Filament is not stuck" Tags="|troubleshooting|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5462" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5418" CreationDate="2018-02-10T17:21:44.200" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;After perusing &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thistothat.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.thistothat.com/&lt;/a&gt; I decided to give J-B Weld epoxy a try.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8572" LastActivityDate="2018-02-10T17:21:44.200" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5463" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5461" CreationDate="2018-02-10T23:24:46.680" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;From the video it is very clear there is &lt;strong&gt;a major problem with bed adhesion&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It also looks like you are printing on bare metal (aluminium?) which I never saw anybody doing. I must admit I don't know it is impossible or simply very rare, but the first thing I would try in your case is &lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/G2wAsP1biFc&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;covering the bed in painter's tape&lt;/a&gt; and wipe it with some alcohol&lt;/strong&gt;.  This is a surefire method to get good adhesion with PLA, which - from the temperatures shown in the video I assume is what you are using.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you haven't tried this before, you should know that:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;some brands of tape work well even without being wiped with alcohol&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;you may need to readjust your nozzle height after having applied the tape&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unless you have already done this, I would also suggest to print some &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1278865&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;test cubes&lt;/a&gt; and possibly some &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.3dbenchy.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;stress tests&lt;/a&gt; as your first prints, in order to check that the basics (extrusion rate, dimensional accuracy...) are working correctly, as well as getting familiar with the limitats of your printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9134" LastActivityDate="2018-02-10T23:24:46.680" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5464" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-02-11T16:00:58.407" Score="1" ViewCount="1877" Body="&lt;p&gt;I find when printing with supports there will almost always be cracking/warping where the object intersects the support material (i.e. the areas that needed supports). Is there a way to avoid this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is an example of one of my first ever PLA prints that exhibited this behavior. As can be seen, the top part printed fine; the bottom part that had supports attached--not so much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AF60Z.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AF60Z.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nHDld.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nHDld.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9552" LastEditorUserId="9552" LastEditDate="2018-02-12T17:27:24.510" LastActivityDate="2018-02-13T14:28:26.540" Title="How to avoid warping when using supports" Tags="|support-structures|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5465" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5467" CreationDate="2018-02-11T19:38:49.110" Score="5" ViewCount="5433" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was wondering if adding (an) extra fan(s) (not connected to the printer, but blowing on the print area) could improve the quality of PLA based prints(printing at 210 C). The printer already has a built in fan with a fan shroud that directs air to the hotend, but is it beneficial to add an extra fan in order to get better results on overhangs, fine details, etc, or does extra cooling negatively/not affect print quality? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1879" LastActivityDate="2019-04-10T16:00:10.650" Title="Is it advisable to use additional external fan(s) for printing PLA?" Tags="|pla|quality|cooling|print-fan|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5466" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5451" CreationDate="2018-02-12T01:20:02.327" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The answer already provided by @fred_dot_u at the time of writing is good, so I won't rehash what they already said, but will try to answer your questions from another angle:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I'm wondering whether the degree to which the filament contracts is proportional to the amount that it cools.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Yes.  This is generally true for any solid material.&lt;/strong&gt;  This &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thermal_expansion&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;property&lt;/a&gt; is linked to the fundamental nature of matter in the way we understand it today.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If the answer is yes, then wouldn't it suggest that a lower printing temperature might reduce warping-as the temperature interval over which the filament cools is smaller?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Shrinkage is the &lt;em&gt;root&lt;/em&gt; cause of 3D prints warping, however &lt;strong&gt;warping itself happens because of the differential in temperature &lt;em&gt;between layers&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;: when a hot layer is extruded on top of a cold one and begins to contract, it will apply a compressing force on the layer underneath, bending it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In fact - if warping were a function of shrinkage - an enclosure would do no good: sooner or later the print would cool down to room temperature, and would warp.  The reason why - contrarily - an enclosure works, is that it limits the differential in temperature between layers (which causes warping) and lets the entire print too cool uniformly and slowly afterwards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, would...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;...a lower printing temperature reduce warping? [...] Or perhaps the difference is negligible?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Nothing beats real world data, especially when the issue has so many variables that are difficult to account for, as in 3D printing, so I would invite you to simply try&lt;/strong&gt; to print the same model twice, only changing the printing temperature (and of course making sure the environmental temperature is the same), and see if it does.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;From a theoretical standpoint, I could argue both ways&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On one end, I could argue that this is nothing different than using an enclosure set at a slightly warmer temperature than the environmental one, so it will reduce warping (even if by not much).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other hand, I could argue that until the filament is solid enough, it won't be able to &quot;pull&quot; the layer below, so it doesn't matter if the extrusion temperature (fluid state) is 230°C or 210°C, if until 190°C the filament won't begin to &quot;pull&quot;.  So warping will be identical.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Also, I see a lot of emphasis placed on good first layer adhesion. Is this still an issue if you are printing on a raft?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Yes, as also the raft has a first layer that needs to adhere to the build plate&lt;/strong&gt;.  Rafts typically have a discontinuous and over-extruded first layer over a large area, which definitively helps with adhesion, but you still have to make sure the raft sticks well.  In my experience it is &lt;strong&gt;far easier for a raft to come off the build-plate than for the model to come off the raft&lt;/strong&gt;.  YMMV though, as the material of the build-plate, and the slicer can dramatically affect this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9134" LastActivityDate="2018-02-12T01:20:02.327" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5467" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5465" CreationDate="2018-02-12T01:35:00.023" Score="3" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The printer already has a built in fan with a fan shroud that directs air to the hotend&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Unless your printer is defective, it may look like so, but the airflow should really be directed towards the print, not the hot-end&lt;/strong&gt;.  Cooling the hot-end will at best just waste energy, requiring extra heat to keep it hot, at worst affect your print quality negatively.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;is it beneficial to add an extra fan in order to get better results on overhangs?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The issue with external fans, not connected to the printer, is that you can't properly direct their ariflow, so:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;you &lt;em&gt;will&lt;/em&gt; direct some of it on the hot-end itself (see above on why that's not good)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;you will potentially cool your print unevenly, which - depending from how much, how fast, and what type of filament you are using - may warp your prints&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, depending from a number of factors, including your ability to position the fans appropriately, &lt;strong&gt;you &lt;em&gt;may&lt;/em&gt; gain some benefit from them (I saw people doing this to help with PETG stringing), but I would recommend instead to upgrade the part fan of your printer (e.g.: larger diameter, higher RPM) and your duct (better focus on the extruded filament)&lt;/strong&gt;, as these upgrades will have no drawbacks and will perform consistently on each part of the print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For most common printer, there are printable mods that allow to do both, often available off thingiverse or on dedicated user community forums.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9134" LastActivityDate="2018-02-12T01:35:00.023" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5468" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5473" CreationDate="2018-02-12T02:44:38.083" Score="1" ViewCount="1264" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am getting started with GCode, and I don't know all the commands. Is there a way to smooth a path between two points? I wrote a program which makes GCode from a silhouette. Problem is, when it looks at the individual pixels, its path becomes a bit choppy. Is there a command that will make a more natural path. Attached is a close up picture of the path simulation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/I9tyP.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/I9tyP.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9912" LastActivityDate="2018-02-12T08:14:09.260" Title="Make smooth curves in GCode" Tags="|g-code|cad|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5469" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-02-12T05:42:22.137" Score="-2" ViewCount="843" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am currently heating a silicone heat bed through the 110v/220v AC mains and for some reason it only seems to heat up to 70°C, but it is heating the bed evenly. The power supply I am using is 24v power supply with the power turned up. The SSR has not been heating up at all during use, so could it be that it's not getting enough power even through the mains?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9861" LastEditorUserId="9861" LastEditDate="2018-02-12T08:35:43.190" LastActivityDate="2018-02-18T19:31:43.510" Title="Heat bed won't heat above 70°C" Tags="|heated-bed|diy-3d-printer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ClosedDate="2018-02-27T08:13:18.573" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5473" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5468" CreationDate="2018-02-12T08:05:37.383" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Curves are normally approximated with straight-line segments. However, some firmwares (e.g. Marlin) support arc commands. See:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/G002-G003.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Marlin: Controlled Arc Move&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#G2_.26_G3:_Controlled_Arc_Move&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;RepRap: Controlled Arc Move&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that the RepRap Wiki is not always accurate in its list of supported commands.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3953" LastEditorUserId="3953" LastEditDate="2018-02-12T08:14:09.260" LastActivityDate="2018-02-12T08:14:09.260" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5474" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5477" CreationDate="2018-02-12T09:25:07.363" Score="4" ViewCount="1157" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had a problem with my nozzle on my homemade printer. The problem was that the nozzle with a 0.4 mm diameter wasn't putting out any plastic. I replaced the nozzle with a 0.2 mm one and now the bottom of my model is looking like this: &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UFSHV.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UFSHV.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;waves&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;I tried to change flow,temperatures and speed.&#xA;But nothing helped it keeps making this waves. At the old 0.4 mm nozzle there everything was okay.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9771" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-02-18T23:41:48.213" LastActivityDate="2021-02-18T23:41:48.213" Title="The bottom of the printed objects has waves after replacing the nozzle" Tags="|print-quality|nozzle|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5475" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5474" CreationDate="2018-02-12T12:20:23.170" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Without more detail is difficult to say with certainty what the &lt;em&gt;root&lt;/em&gt; cause of the problem is, but it looks like &lt;strong&gt;too much material is being deposited on the bed&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A few things to try/check:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Make sure the nozzle is not leaking&lt;/strong&gt;.  If it is, you should see fused plastic coming out from the seal nozzle/hot-end and/or hot-end/heat break and trickling down.  This is often the case when the nozzle hasn't been tightened enough, or it has been changed with the hot-end being cold, or if the internal PTFE tube has been dislodged upwards (does not apply to all-metal hot-ends).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Make sure you changed the appropriate setting for the nozzle diameter&lt;/strong&gt;.  This is &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; &quot;flow&quot; it is a separate setting.  If you haven't, your printer is now extruding ~4 times as much filament as it ought.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Recalibrate your nozzle height&lt;/strong&gt;.  This should be done at each nozzle change, as each nozzle is slightly different from the other, and it is possible your new nozzle now sits too close to the bed.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT&lt;/strong&gt;: also, the picture is too low-res to be sure, but looking at the skirt, &lt;strong&gt;it looks like the extruded plastic comes out in blobs&lt;/strong&gt;.  If it is not due to leakage, then I would suggest to also check that the filament is not slipping through the gears of the extruder.  If you have access to a suitable thermometer, you could also check that the hot-end temperature is stable at the level it should.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Final thought: have you ever succeeded printing with that filament spool?  It is unlikely, but it may be for example a defective one, or a mis-labelled one (so your printing temperature may be wrong).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9134" LastEditorUserId="9134" LastEditDate="2018-02-12T14:06:22.453" LastActivityDate="2018-02-12T14:06:22.453" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5477" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5474" CreationDate="2018-02-12T14:55:58.733" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Okay, there are a few potential issues here:&#xA;1: your belts are not tight enough. This will cause your bed to shake during printing, giving you wavy first layers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2: your filament is bad. If you have an inconsistent filament diameter, thus can lead to inconsistent extrusion rates, and cause a wavy appearance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3: your nozzle is jammed. The nozzle you bought may have something stuck inside of it, leading to underextrusion, which, in some cases, can lead to a wavy appearance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7019" LastActivityDate="2018-02-12T14:55:58.733" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5478" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5461" CreationDate="2018-02-12T15:01:03.200" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would suggest buying Buildtak, which is a high-quality adhesion surface. This surface is almost guaranteed to make your prints stick to your bed. If Buildtak is outside of your budget, I would suggest using a relatively high grade painters tape combined with either purple gluestick or hairspray applied to your bed before each print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7019" LastActivityDate="2018-02-12T15:01:03.200" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5479" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5482" CreationDate="2018-02-12T16:36:20.597" Score="3" ViewCount="68" Body="&lt;p&gt;I printed thingiverse minion Dave and after 2 failed attempts (1st tore of from bed, 2nd had jitter at about 50%) I slowed the print speed down. The final result was amazing. However the reported print time, 3hrs, was in reality 7hrs. The speed reduction was small and I would not have expected such a dramatic change in time. Did I miss a step somewhere? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9614" LastActivityDate="2023-08-05T12:34:40.973" Title="Cura 3 speed selection" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|anet-a8|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5480" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5464" CreationDate="2018-02-12T19:43:17.277" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I am iterpreting your picture correctly, &lt;strong&gt;what you are referring to as &quot;cracking and warping&quot; is simply the irregularities of the plastic where it rested on (and partially bonded with) the support material&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unluckily, apart from upgrading to a dual extruder printer (and use water-soluble filament for the support) or switching printing technology entirely (e.g.: using a sintering printer) you can only mitigate the problem, but the defects will remain, and will require post-processing to be rectified.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, in no particular order, here's a list of the most common way to tackle this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Use a slicer that allows you to place support only where strictly needed&lt;/strong&gt;.  I have never used it myself as I am a FLOSS enthusiast, but - at the time of writing - among the mainstream ones only &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.simplify3d.com/software/features/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Simplify 3D&lt;/a&gt; offers this feature.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If your slicers does not support that, &lt;strong&gt;tweak your support material settings&lt;/strong&gt;.  In Cura (and for my printer/filament) - for example - it helps using &quot;support interfaces&quot; and leaving quite a XY gap between model and support.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Instead of printing your model in one go, print it in multiple parts&lt;/strong&gt; that you can then glue or assemble together.  For example: the spaceship you took pictures of could be printed without any support at all if you were to cut it in half (back and front of the ship, the cylinder connecting cockpit and wings also cut in two).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Use a material that can be chemically smoothed&lt;/strong&gt;.  Traditionally that would be &lt;a href=&quot;https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=6xFUNFG-UKE&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;ABS + acetone vapour&lt;/a&gt;, both of them cheap and toxic, but more recently it &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.polymaker.com/shop/polysmoothpolysher/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;polysmooth&lt;/a&gt; has hit the market with a safer (and way more expensive) system.  This approach will also improve the look and finish of the rest of the print (as also the layer marks will be smoothed out).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Again though... support material marks are sort of part of the game, when using FDM technology, so you should expect some sanding in most prints that required support.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9134" LastEditorUserId="9134" LastEditDate="2018-02-13T14:28:26.540" LastActivityDate="2018-02-13T14:28:26.540" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5481" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5485" CreationDate="2018-02-12T20:21:28.503" Score="4" ViewCount="2685" Body="&lt;p&gt;Quick thing: Please tell me if I misuse any of the terminology&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On a replicator+, I have been printing successfully for a while, when suddenly the raft started to warp. I was doing a bunch of models that covered the whole tray, so I shrunk to just a small area, but It still warped I read up on how to fix, but most covered how to fix warping in the model itself, not the rafting. Some said to lower the temp, would that work? smart extruder at default settings, 215 C. The printer does not have a heated base, nor have I treated it with anything, and I am using it with the stock program (makerbot print). Otherwise, I am using it as it came out of the box.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1k0PE.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1k0PE.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;bad&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9925" LastEditorUserId="9925" LastEditDate="2018-02-13T14:54:35.347" LastActivityDate="2018-02-13T14:54:35.347" Title="Raft warping (Makerbot Replicator+)" Tags="|makerbot|warping|rafts|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5482" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5479" CreationDate="2018-02-12T20:38:44.350" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;No you didn't do anything wrong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The problem with time estimates in slicers is that they don't know anything about the printer's firmware and physical limitations&lt;/strong&gt;, so they estimate time based on the (whoefully wrong) assumption that the printer will do only and exactly what told to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, if the gcode says &quot;move 100mm at 1m/s&quot; the slicer will assume your printer will take 100ms to perform that action.  In reality though, your printer will take some time to accelerate, and it may actually be unable to reach the target speed of 1m/s altoghether, taking a lot longer to perform the full action.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Typically, Cura estimates are OK for makerbots, and Slic3r PE for Prusa printers, as the software is mainly developed towards those machines, but for most other printers the estimates will be sensibly off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may also be interested in trying to use &lt;a href=&quot;https://octoprint.org/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;octoprint&lt;/a&gt; to feed the GCODE to the printer: &lt;strong&gt;octoprint monitors the actual elapsed time against the gcode and try to adjust the estimate of the remaining time accordingly&lt;/strong&gt;, also telling the operator how reliable that estimate is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9134" LastActivityDate="2018-02-12T20:38:44.350" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5483" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5663" CreationDate="2018-02-13T11:28:51.037" Score="5" ViewCount="3299" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to get a clean set of measurements of the Anet A8 mainboard and determine the exact positioning of the holes in both the board and frame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The frame and the board are cut to accommodate an M3 bolt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are the measurements I have currently:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Mainboard&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Overall Width 100&amp;nbsp;mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Overall Height 95&amp;nbsp;mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Frame (main board holes)&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lateral (measured with calipers)&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hole (3.4&amp;nbsp;mm) Distance +&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Inner edge hole to hole (83.07&amp;nbsp;mm)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;= ~86.4&amp;nbsp;mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Vertical ~90&amp;nbsp;mm (not measured 100&amp;nbsp;% correctly)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was hoping to just find a PCB layout for this board with the measurements and offsets but have found nothing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am attempting to provide a mount adapter frame for a PSU with a 50&amp;nbsp;mm x 150&amp;nbsp;mm mounting footprint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5164" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2019-04-25T07:52:44.110" LastActivityDate="2019-04-25T08:34:20.160" Title="Anet A8 mainboard dimensions and hole offsets" Tags="|anet-a8|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5484" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5481" CreationDate="2018-02-13T13:13:08.127" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Lowering the raft temp to 200 degrees C should help. You should also apply hairspray and purple gluestick to your entire printed to help with raft adhesion to the bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7019" LastActivityDate="2018-02-13T13:13:08.127" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5485" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5481" CreationDate="2018-02-13T13:37:05.627" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure I am reading your post correctly, but if you are doing a batch of small prints, I would recommend to &lt;strong&gt;space them enough so as each of them has its own mini-raft, rather than all of them sharing the same large one&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are using cura, you can tweak how much the raft goes past the footprint of the part.  Unless you are printing &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; small parts, you don't need that to be a lot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In general, &lt;strong&gt;you should think to a raft as a print in and by itself: the larger it is, the more prone to warping,&lt;/strong&gt; although the way filament is layered with gaps makes the raft bend and warp a lot less than a regular print of the same size.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9134" LastActivityDate="2018-02-13T13:37:05.627" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5486" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-02-13T14:01:03.743" Score="2" ViewCount="1493" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just last night the heat bed stopped working. It was fine up to 75&amp;nbsp;% of the print, then when it was done the bed was not on anymore. The display said it was set to 50&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C, but it was at 18&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C. I did try moving the pins, and that is not loose (very simple thing to try). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to know what could have happened and what to look for when I try to fix the heat bed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please note: I do have a multi-meter. I do not use a MOSFET (I do have plans to install on)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Upon further investigation, I tested the mother board for any voltage were the bed hooks up and there is nothing. I had the printer trying to heat the bed when I was testing. But the thermistor is working, when I unhooked the connection the thermistor went to 0&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C, when plugged in it went to 18&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it the motherboard? How can I fix this knowing no power is being supplied to the bed from the motherboard? Do I need a new motherboard?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8835" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-11-17T22:27:51.850" LastActivityDate="2019-11-17T22:27:51.850" Title="Anet A6 heat bed stopped working" Tags="|heated-bed|anet-a6|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="13" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5487" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5489" CreationDate="2018-02-13T14:34:39.763" Score="5" ViewCount="250" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have printed off some upgrades for my Anet A6 for tensioning the belt on the Y and X axis. I was wondering how much deflection the belt should have. I would think being to tight will stress the machine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8835" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2019-08-31T08:24:52.910" LastActivityDate="2019-08-31T08:24:52.910" Title="Belt Tensioning" Tags="|anet-a6|belt|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5488" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5486" CreationDate="2018-02-13T14:48:11.163" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a shot in the dark, but the vast majority of problems with a heating bed stopping to work is usually at the cables/connectors interface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is because in printers like the A6, the cable/connector is subject to constant mechanical stress, and - since &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Metal_Fatigue&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;metal fatigue&lt;/a&gt; is a thing - either the solder or the cable core cracks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should make good use of your tester to verify the integrity of the circuit in the bed and if it is not toasted you should be able to just repair the connection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For many printers there exist &quot;strain relief mods&quot; to prevent this type of failure to happen.  The first one showing up for the A6 is &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2020947&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;a full chain&lt;/a&gt;, but normally is enough the have a small enclosure for the connector like &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2186203&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this one&lt;/a&gt; for the CR-10.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9134" LastActivityDate="2018-02-13T14:48:11.163" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5489" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5487" CreationDate="2018-02-13T17:08:08.220" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I wanted to know the proper deflection I should have on the belt. What I have read is for every inch of belt (25.4mm) it should deflect 1/64 of a inch (.4mm).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found this information on this &lt;a href=&quot;https://best3dprinter.stan-tech.com/3d-printer-belt-tension-is-it-important&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Website&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8835" LastActivityDate="2018-02-13T17:08:08.220" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5490" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5491" CreationDate="2018-02-13T23:09:20.920" Score="6" ViewCount="247" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently rebuilt my A8 printer to have a metal frame and replaced the board with a GT2560 reva+. I'm having problems with the temp readings from both my hotend and hotbed. Using marlin 1.1x and Its possible I have something configured incorrectly. I can get successful prints with good quality but sometimes I get thermal runaway during a print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both cold and at temp (200c) have fairly large temp spikes. I didn't have this problem with my old board. I had much smoother temp curves. I'm using the default PID values for Ultimaker Kp 22.2, Ki 1.08, Kd 144.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have tried to use PID autotune but get drastically different values every time I run it and using the results gave worse results (sometimes giving a heating error during the autotune). I checked all the wiring and nothing looks frayed or damaged. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First pic is cold temps. Second is trying to do a PID tune. Third and fourth are during a print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7H8KC.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7H8KC.png&quot; alt=&quot;Temps cold&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EpW8E.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EpW8E.png&quot; alt=&quot;PID tune&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/A9bU0.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/A9bU0.png&quot; alt=&quot;During a print&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GwyP4.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GwyP4.png&quot; alt=&quot;During a print 2&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9938" LastActivityDate="2018-02-15T08:58:25.433" Title="Spiky hotend and bed temps" Tags="|hotend|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5491" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5490" CreationDate="2018-02-14T06:29:01.257" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had a similar problem and there could be three reasons(if the connections are ok):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;thin wires to the hotend&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;one of the MOSFETs was fried &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the termal sensor wasn't good enough insert into the hotend&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Try to measure the hotend heating element voltage while printing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9771" LastEditorUserId="9134" LastEditDate="2018-02-14T07:48:18.033" LastActivityDate="2018-02-14T07:48:18.033" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5492" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-02-14T06:52:42.273" Score="9" ViewCount="6687" Body="&lt;p&gt;Right now my heated bed is down and I had no time to try and fix it and I am trying to print something for a friend. I am having the PLA lift around the edges which I have NEVER experienced. The glue is not helping like it did with the heat. And I also tried rubbing alcohol on the masking tape I use, heard that helps and it was not that much better than the glue stick. What can I do to keep the plastic sticking to the bed during print. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I will note that the lift is not super bad, but I do like the littlest of lift on any print. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8835" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2019-08-31T08:43:14.200" LastActivityDate="2020-06-13T05:32:08.867" Title="Getting PLA to stick to a cold bed" Tags="|pla|adhesion|anet-a6|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5493" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5454" CreationDate="2018-02-14T07:46:52.917" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well, few years ago I could set the software Mach3 for printing doing the next:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Set a profile for 3D printing&lt;/strong&gt; for the faster movements that your CNC can support; for example some CNC uses standard threads, others ACME threads and other GT2 belts like the 3D printers. If we try to use a feed rate too high the motors will shake. For this profile is not needed the torque for machining or routing, so we will sacrifice force to gain speed.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Create the proper gcode&lt;/strong&gt;. Mostly Gcode maker generate the code to send pulses to Extruder E but Mach3 takes as invalid E instructions, so the extruder will never move. To avoid this there are 2 modes:&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;a)&lt;/strong&gt; Find and replace all E instruction with A to enable Motor A or&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;b)&lt;/strong&gt; Create the Gcode with an interpreter to output A instead E&#xA;    like Slicer 0.71 as you can see in the image below. I haven't tried with other software&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/I2S8h.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/I2S8h.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3.&lt;strong&gt;For controlling the extruder temperature&lt;/strong&gt; is possible with any other controller like REX-C100/C400 any PIC or Arduino. The accuracy will depend on your design.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4454" LastActivityDate="2018-02-14T07:46:52.917" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5494" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5492" CreationDate="2018-02-14T07:56:48.380" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most of the same reccomendations that apply for adhesion to a hot bed apply for a cold one.  The first ones to come to mind:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;really dial in the nozzle height&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;make the first layer taller than the rest (e.g.: 0.2mm if the rest of your print is 0.1mm)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;print the first layer very slowly&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;print the first layer at higher temperature&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;use a brim or a raft (on my first printer, that had no heated bed, rafts gave the least deformation)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;turn off the part fan for the first layer&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;adapt your model to reduce twisting forces (relief cuts, print it in parts, choose orientation wisely, etc...)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your slicer has this feature, you could also try to print with a shroud.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9134" LastEditorUserId="9134" LastEditDate="2018-02-14T18:29:45.443" LastActivityDate="2018-02-14T18:29:45.443" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5495" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5497" CreationDate="2018-02-14T18:34:08.173" Score="5" ViewCount="1461" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can anyone explain to me why I'm getting regular over-extrusion patterns on this extrusion calibration cube?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just upgraded the extruder from stock to Flexion HT on my Balco Touch (Wanhao i3 plus) and now I'm getting a strange pattern on my prints.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The photos below show me trying to calibrate the extrusion multiplier after completing the extruder install.  The first is with a factor of 1 and the second with an adjusted factor of 0.86 (which I suspect is the reason for the change in pattern?).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I guess this is some kind of mechanical issue causing the over-extrusion?  Any ideas?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DDgNO.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DDgNO.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;first attempt - extrusion multiplier - 1&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: during the second print (below) I was playing with the Flexion extruder's Cam set screw hence why it stopped extruding all together.  I tried it set tight and loose and other than when really tight and stopping the extrusion there was no real difference in the pattern when extruding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GVOYp.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GVOYp.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;second attempt - extrusion multiplier - 0.87&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Help..!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9180" LastActivityDate="2018-02-14T19:33:07.467" Title="Regular over-extrusion..?" Tags="|marlin|extrusion|wanhao|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5497" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5495" CreationDate="2018-02-14T19:33:07.467" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Mine is a shot in the dark, but &lt;strong&gt;the fact the overextrusion is so regular let me think it is due to something rotating going around in cycles&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The fact that the pattern changes with the flow parameter make me think the culprit is the stepper motor pushing the filament&lt;/strong&gt; (as different flow means different number of rotations for the same lenght of printed wall).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;A possibility could be an irregularity in the cobbed wheel&lt;/strong&gt; biting it the filament: a longer tooth would push more filament into the hot end, for example.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Another cause could be a problem in the actual stepper motor&lt;/strong&gt;, in which a failure in the coils causes it to move to steps instead of one, at some point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are possibly other suspects in firmware settings and stepper dirivers, but that's not the area of 3D printing I am most expert in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Much more unlikely, it could be a defect in the filament&lt;/strong&gt;, but that's easy to test: just swap it for another one!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9134" LastActivityDate="2018-02-14T19:33:07.467" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5498" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5490" CreationDate="2018-02-15T08:58:25.433" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This really looks like a bad connection, so try with your old board to see if the broken connection is on the board, or it's the temp sensor or the wires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had exactly this problem with a bad connection from the temp sensor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you didn't break anything, it's the board that's fried / badly connected.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8328" LastActivityDate="2018-02-15T08:58:25.433" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5500" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-02-15T20:35:42.417" Score="7" ViewCount="175" Body="&lt;p&gt;While I don't think this is easily possible I am wondering if it can be done. So my spool of filament had a tangle and got pulled into the printer head. Some got melted together and after cutting I have a few strands. Would it be possible to mend the ends together to make one continuous strand instead of many small strand?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8835" LastActivityDate="2018-02-15T22:58:47.713" Title="Mending filament?" Tags="|filament|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5501" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5500" CreationDate="2018-02-15T20:45:11.063" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sure, but you need to be careful not to have wide or narrow spots. A fixture for this is probably better than freehand welding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See some ideas for a homemade fuser at &lt;a href=&quot;https://rigid.ink/blogs/news/how-to-join-or-fuse-filament-together&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://rigid.ink/blogs/news/how-to-join-or-fuse-filament-together&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4922" LastActivityDate="2018-02-15T20:45:11.063" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5502" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5500" CreationDate="2018-02-15T22:58:47.713" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As @davo says in his answer, this can be done rather easily, but the main problem with this kind of approach is reliability of the joint: sure, it must last only a short time, but during that time it will have to survive bending through your bowden tube (if applicable) and withstanding the grinding of the hobbed gear pushing it through the extruder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I personally only used the &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/7Vuh4Mwm_4k&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;PTFE method (plus heat gun)&lt;/a&gt;, which is substantially identical to the tinfoil one outlined in the link provided by @davo but here's a couple of observations:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Freshly cut filament seem to work best&lt;/strong&gt;.  I guess this is because there is less chances for contaminants like dust, skin oil etc... to find their way to the surfaces you are trying to bond.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I had &lt;strong&gt;no problem melting together PLAs of different brands&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;You may have to tune the flow &quot;on the fly&quot; via the knob on the printer&lt;/strong&gt; to accommodate for different diameters between the two spools you spliced (not applicable to your specific case of &quot;plastic surgery&quot; (pun intended!) on the same spool.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I find the bond &lt;strong&gt;works best if the two filaments are cut at an angle&lt;/strong&gt; (so that the actual bonding surface is larger)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A &lt;strong&gt;light sanding to smooth out any seam and reduce the diameter&lt;/strong&gt; of melted part a bit is in order&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9134" LastActivityDate="2018-02-15T22:58:47.713" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5503" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-02-16T18:54:26.553" Score="4" ViewCount="263" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am noticing strange print patterns ever since I upgraded to the Prusa multi material print head.  The patterns are consistent printing upwards but inconsistent amongst each face.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://photos-3.dropbox.com/t/2/AAAej5iN5jXAi17ybiFOElZpql5VBmm37Kdrnr3dOFKZdA/12/227782943/jpeg/32x32/1/_/1/2/20180207_142204.jpg/EJjFva4BGAogBygH/nMy1fd3j77dWsnlqh9E41sufMPEJbLXjjCVWG8GaitA?size=1280x960&amp;amp;size_mode=3&quot; alt=&quot;photo1&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://photos-5.dropbox.com/t/2/AAC4BscL_WbA7MucD-SaqfwsQYIQFW3SUyOSmwoeuB17Sw/12/227782943/jpeg/32x32/1/_/1/2/20180207_142129.jpg/EJjFva4BGAogBygH/ttCiuVeHoJaboXCtZbzlX70Qtrs3JLLQJIgNkmn3h30?size=1280x960&amp;amp;size_mode=3&quot; alt=&quot;photo2&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am using original Prusa PLA filament, and have tried to different extruder temperature settings (200C, 205C, 210C, and 215C) but they all have similar patterns.  A different color and roll of Prusa filament is doing the same thing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas or suggestions as to what to check next?  Thanks for any input!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9868" LastEditorUserId="9868" LastEditDate="2018-02-23T19:08:19.153" LastActivityDate="2018-02-23T19:08:19.153" Title="Has anyone encountered this type of strange print patterns?" Tags="|prusa-i3|multi-material|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5504" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5503" CreationDate="2018-02-17T00:04:53.827" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is always very difficult to debug a printer remotely, but here's my best shot.  I may be &lt;em&gt;totally&lt;/em&gt; wrong though!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Zooming-in your picture seems to show like little bumps (inwards or outwards) that offset the extrusion in the XY plane.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AbszF.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AbszF.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;zoomed-in picture&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The fact the bumps occur on both the X and Y axis, and both inwards and outwards, and that the patterns are not fully regular make me think &lt;strong&gt;the problem could be as simple as the new printing head having some play, and some combination of forces waking bumping it momentarily off its intended position&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Any ideas or suggestions as to what to check next?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check for play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Play which is due to a static feature (like a loose bolt, a clamp not holding firmly enugh or a cracked heat break) can be usually be detected with the printer switched off, by holding the nozzle between your fingers and shacking it gently.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Play that is dynamic in nature (for example a roller with an irregular diameter or screwed parts becoming loose only when hot) can be more tricky to detect.  The procedure is the same, but tou may have to heat the extruder (and use gloves, doh!) or to repeat it at different positions on the X and Y axis.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9134" LastActivityDate="2018-02-17T00:04:53.827" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5505" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-02-17T15:20:20.313" Score="3" ViewCount="707" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just out of curiosity is it possible to print with HDPE? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would it be easy or hard? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know they don't make HDPE filament* but I know people with a filament extruder could make some HDPE because it is a common plastic, which means it can be given a second use or something.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*To my knowledge&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8835" LastEditorUserId="9975" LastEditDate="2018-02-19T20:38:52.237" LastActivityDate="2018-02-19T20:38:52.237" Title="Printing with HDPE plastic" Tags="|filament|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5506" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5505" CreationDate="2018-02-17T20:11:44.830" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It can be done, although PE is not the best material to 3D print, as it has very low melting point (HDPE is just over 100°C), it is unpleasantly waxy to the touch and needs specialised paints and glues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I never tried myself, but I know the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:54180&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;RecycleBot&lt;/a&gt; is supposed to be able to use PE waste to produce a filament.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9134" LastActivityDate="2018-02-17T20:11:44.830" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5508" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-02-18T10:59:29.483" Score="7" ViewCount="5396" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm currently in the process of fine-tuning my cheap CTC i3 clone. I'm using Cura 3.1 for slicing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After calibrating the extruder steps, I wanted to optimize the line width and flow compensation parameters. I am using a 0.4 mm nozzle and therefore set the line width parameter to 0.4 mm in Cura. I then printed a cube with 0% infill, 1 wall line and no top layers (basically an open cube with 4 bottom layers). The wall width I measured on the printed result is 0.52 mm. To correct for the difference I set the flow compensation to 80% and repeated the print. The wall width I got from this was 0.45 mm, which is much better than before. There is only one problem: the parallel lines in the four bottom layers do not touch, so the print is not watertight. Up to now I assumed that Cura would calculate the distance between the lines from the line width setting. So with 0.45 mm lines and line width set to 0.4 mm there should even be some overlap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why am I seeing this effect? Am I getting something fundamentally wrong here?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9976" LastActivityDate="2022-04-18T18:53:26.697" Title="Tuning line width and flow compensation in Cura" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|extrusion|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5509" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="199" CreationDate="2018-02-18T17:20:26.850" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Design a product in such a way that it has different heights that can be seen in one plane.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By using direct drive extrusion we can easily change the material of different colours with out pausing the print to obtain colour print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CIYII.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CIYII.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Example of multicoloured print&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9979" LastEditorUserId="9134" LastEditDate="2018-02-18T20:54:38.953" LastActivityDate="2018-02-18T20:54:38.953" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5511" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5514" CreationDate="2018-02-18T19:08:54.457" Score="6" ViewCount="359" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a problem with my 3d printer. When I am printing, the printer seems to drip. &#xA;I am very confused because I never saw this before and I do not know what to do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I attach a picture of it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why does this happen?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you very much for yours ideas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;DATA: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Printer: Anet A8&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Material: PLA&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Temperature: 200ºC&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I Have enable retraction and I tried to disable it without changes...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sWzzi.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sWzzi.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Image Drip&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6508" LastActivityDate="2018-08-07T06:38:57.583" Title="3d printer drip problem" Tags="|prusa-i3|pla|extruder|calibration|hotend|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5512" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2670" CreationDate="2018-02-18T19:15:43.777" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you clearly observe the geometry of the print it has printed in different colours .the part is designed in such a way that it has the small height gap between the each colour but we cannot seen this gap in one projection plane..&#xA;We can print only in direct drive extrusion .by changing the filament of different colours without pausing the print by immediately changing the material . It is printed in single nozzle. The above image clears your doubt.it is designed with different heights.&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/faCw2.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/faCw2.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9979" LastActivityDate="2018-02-18T19:15:43.777" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5513" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5469" CreationDate="2018-02-18T19:31:43.510" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Preface: &lt;strong&gt;Working with mains voltage is dangerous.&lt;/strong&gt; I'm writing this answer based off limited and incomplete information about your situation. Mains voltage can &lt;strong&gt;kill&lt;/strong&gt;. Be careful, and get help from somebody else if you're not 100% certain of what you're doing. Make sure to connect to protective earth any exposed metal surfaces of your printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;I think that&lt;/em&gt; the heated bed you have is a dual voltage bed, meaning it can be used with either a 110V supply or with a 220V supply. It has three wires, and internally, these are connected as follows (resistances are a guess, this would correspond to a 1000W bed):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0uBZZ.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0uBZZ.png&quot; alt=&quot;Heated bed schematic&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because this is a dual-voltage bed, there are three wires. You need to hook up the correct combination of wires to get the correct power rating - and this depends on the mains voltage in your country.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The formula for power &lt;strong&gt;P&lt;/strong&gt; dissipated by a resistance &lt;strong&gt;R&lt;/strong&gt; across a voltage &lt;strong&gt;V&lt;/strong&gt; is &lt;strong&gt;P = V&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;/R&lt;/strong&gt;. We can see, that if we apply 220V across wire 1 and wire 3 we get a power dissipation of 220&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; / 48 = 1000 Watts (because the resistors are in series, we get a resistance of 24+24=48 Ohms).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, in a 220V country, the wiring is easy: just connect wires 1 and 3 to live and neutral. &lt;strong&gt;Note:&lt;/strong&gt; in a 220V country, don't make the mistake of connecting any other pair of wires. If you instead connect wire 1 and 2 to the mains, your heated bed will draw 4000W. This will (should) trip the circuit breaker/fuse, and possibly damage the bed or start a fire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, what does a person in a 110V country do? What happens if you connect 110V across wires 1 and 3? You get a power dissipation of 110&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; / 48 = 250 Watts. That's only a quarter of the bed's power, so it's not going to get very hot (not even up to the 70 degrees you observed, I would think).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So what if, instead, we hook 110V across wires 1 and 2? In that case, we have 110V across a 24 Ohm resistor, so we get a power dissipation of 110&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; / 24 = 500 Watts. Better, but still not enough to get a bed this large up to temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, how are you supposed to get the full 1000W rating of this bed in a 110V country? &lt;em&gt;You need to connect the two resistors in parallel!&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you connect wires 1 and 3 together, and connect wire 2 to one side of the mains supply and wires 1 and 3 to the other, you get &lt;em&gt;two&lt;/em&gt; 24 Ohm resistors in parallel, each dissipating 500W, giving you the total output of 1000W (or equivalently: two 24 Ohm resistors in parallel make a 12 Ohm resistor, which will dissipate 110&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; / 12 = 1000W).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should use a multimeter to measure the resistance between the wires. Out of the three possible combinations, two should give roughly the same reading (in the 20-40 Ohms range), and one combination should give roughly double that value. This latter combination identifies wires 1 and 3. These wires should be connected together in a 110V country.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastActivityDate="2018-02-18T19:31:43.510" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5514" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5511" CreationDate="2018-02-18T20:29:23.320" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have two theories to offer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;It is really dripping&lt;/strong&gt;.  If this is the case, the likely culprit is a loose part in the hot-end, namely the nozzle/heating block coupling, or the heating block/heat break one.  If this is the case, you should be able to see it by visually inspecting the part.  The solution in this case is to fully disassemble the parts, clean them thoroughly of any remaining plastic, and reassembling them &lt;em&gt;while hot&lt;/em&gt;.  This is essential, as parts that are assembled cold have the tendency to come loose when heated (due to thermal expansion).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;It is overextruding&lt;/strong&gt;, and the nozzle collect and drag around the excessive plastic, until the blob is big enogh to detach and remain on the bed.  If this is the case, then you should &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.matterhackers.com/articles/how-to-calibrate-your-extruder&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;calibrate your extruder&lt;/a&gt;, and the &lt;a href=&quot;https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=L6GJWHwrTmY&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;nozzle height&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9134" LastActivityDate="2018-02-18T20:29:23.320" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5515" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="199" CreationDate="2018-02-18T20:30:14.930" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are trying to print something like a Rubic's Cube in the correct colors without using paint or stickers, there are only a couple of options.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming that you are using a printer with only a single extruder and no fancy gadgets, you will need to print each color cube you will need to print in a lot of pieces and then put them together. You can't use tricks like changing the filament manually at a certain level for most of the cubes because most of the cubes are corner cubes with 3 colors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming that you have some sort of multi-material system, then you just use STL files that are made with the proper colors. And I'm talking any sort of multi-material system, including multiple extruders, the fancy extruder described by @Martin Carney, or the MMS from prusia3d.com which has 4 inputs to a single extruder with the disadvantage of no mixing and having to automatically waste filament when changing colors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is another system used by the &lt;a href=&quot;https://techcrunch.com/2017/08/31/xyzprinting-announces-a-3000-full-color-3d-printer/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;da Vinchi Full Color 3d Printer&lt;/a&gt; which sprays ink onto the filament as its printing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since the standard STL file doesn't have color definitions, the normal thing to do is to break up the original file into several STL files each with their own color. This requires Meshmixer or a 3d modeling program.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've done a lot of research on this, but haven't had a chance to try yet because my Original Prusia 3d and its Multi-Material kit haven't arrived yet. :(&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9512" LastActivityDate="2018-02-18T20:30:14.930" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5516" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5508" CreationDate="2018-02-19T09:47:44.293" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;That is very bizarre.  Since GCODE describe each movement of the printing head (so, the printer does not get to decide anything in terms of printing strategy, it just executes), I can only see three possibilities that would explain what's going on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The print is being scaled up at printer level&lt;/strong&gt;.  This could for example be due to your firmware having your steppers improperly calibrated and moving them too much for a given unit of measure (say you say 1mm, they move 1.5mm instead).  This is easy to check: if this is the case, your cube will be scaled up (so - using the example above - if your cube is 10x10x10 it will come out 15x15x15).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;You are printing with a raft&lt;/strong&gt;.  Then there is no problem with your set-up, the first layer(s) of a raft are not solid, but intentionally &quot;grated&quot;.  Check your settings to verify.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Cura is producing the &quot;wrong&quot; gcode&lt;/strong&gt;.  This could be &lt;em&gt;really wrong&lt;/em&gt; (as in &quot;you found a bug&quot;, in which case you should report it on their github), or just &lt;em&gt;look wrong&lt;/em&gt; (as in &quot;you found a weird combination of setting producing that gcode&quot;, in which case you should reset the settings to their default and see the problem disappear).  Either way, if the gcode is &quot;wrong&quot;, you should notice the gaps in the gcode preview mode in Cura.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9134" LastEditorUserId="9134" LastEditDate="2018-02-19T17:40:56.397" LastActivityDate="2018-02-19T17:40:56.397" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5519" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-02-20T17:13:26.473" Score="5" ViewCount="3900" Body="&lt;p&gt;As part of a project with my university, I have developed a new extruder to attach to a Prusa i3 MK2. My problem is that both the nozzle and PINDA probe have moved 17mm forward and 0.5mm to the right. As a result when I try and calibrate the printer it moves to the home position and the PINDA probe is too far out over the heatbed so it doesn't detect the printing surface. What is the simplest method of moving the home position so that the printer can be properly calibrated?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;UPDATE:&#xA;I am planning on removing the heatbed and placing spacers that will move the printing surface 17mm forward. This should then prevent the printer losing any printing area and hopefully prevents me having to edit any code. Can anyone see any problems with this I'm overlooking?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The simplest thing to do would be to move extruder 17mm closer to be the same as the original printer but my deadline is fast approaching and I haven't time for a redesign that large.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10000" LastEditorUserId="10000" LastEditDate="2018-02-21T15:47:25.977" LastActivityDate="2018-02-21T15:47:25.977" Title="Changing the home position on a Prusa i3 MK2" Tags="|prusa-i3|calibration|prusa-i3-rework|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5520" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5519" CreationDate="2018-02-20T18:24:47.567" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Consider the original installation with the orientation of the Pinda probe to the nozzle. Let's say for argument's sake that the Pinda probe is 3 mm to the right and directly in line with the nozzle on the y axis.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you examine your new nozzle, I would expect that the relationship of the nozzle to the Pinda probe no longer matches the original spacing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If possible, re-design the mount to place the Pinda probe in such a way as to match the original design.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for pointing out my oversight, Mac. If the relative position of the nozzle and pinda probe are as the original, the solution is then in changing the appropriate parameters in the firmware.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found a &lt;a href=&quot;https://shop.prusa3d.com/forum/original-prusa-i3-mk2-f23/prusa-i3-mk2-homing-offset-t5256.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;reference&lt;/a&gt; for someone who had a bit smaller error in home position, but the concept is the same.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The link above points to information reading thus:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In Configuration_Prusa.h:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Code: Select all // Home position&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;define MANUAL_X_HOME_POS 0&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;define MANUAL_Y_HOME_POS -2.2&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;define MANUAL_Z_HOME_POS 0.15&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;// Travel limits after homing&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;define X_MAX_POS 250&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;define X_MIN_POS 0&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;define Y_MAX_POS 210&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;define Y_MIN_POS -2.2&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;define Z_MAX_POS 210&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;define Z_MIN_POS 0.15&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;it will be necessary to connect the printer via USB to a computer running an Arduino IDE and to load the Prusa specific files for that printer. Edit the noted location, save/write the configuration and test.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would suggest small adjustments in only one or two parameters at a time, to avoid ambiguity in the cause/result sequence.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:29:41.667" LastActivityDate="2018-02-20T21:29:40.697" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5521" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5519" CreationDate="2018-02-20T22:01:41.590" Score="-1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;What is the simplest method of moving the home position...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think the solution outline by @fred_dot_u is very elegant, so I would go with it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;...so that the printer can be properly calibrated?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure that will be possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because the physical lenght of the axis hasn't changed, by moving the nozzle/probe, you have actually reduced their reach in the opposite direction, so the probe may be unable to travel on top of the intended calibration points (the usable printing area has also shrunk, but that's less of a problem).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If that is the case, I can't think of an easy solution (bar not using the auto-calibration feature altogether).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9134" LastEditorUserId="9134" LastEditDate="2018-02-21T06:59:56.093" LastActivityDate="2018-02-21T06:59:56.093" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5522" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-02-20T22:49:31.387" Score="3" ViewCount="477" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Simplify3D&lt;/strong&gt; is listing the &lt;strong&gt;XYZprinting Davinci mini&lt;/strong&gt; as a compatible printer for their software. I would never buy such expensive software in combination with this printer if I didn't already think of buying a better printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can anybody confirm compatibility with 'out of the box' configuration and up to date firmware?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9974" LastEditorUserId="9134" LastEditDate="2018-02-22T21:14:58.503" LastActivityDate="2019-05-15T13:55:28.510" Title="Simplify3D and Davinci mini" Tags="|software|simplify3d|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5523" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4000" CreationDate="2018-02-21T12:08:42.813" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had the same problem, and I solved it by changing the &lt;em&gt;Z-Axis Feed Rate&lt;/em&gt; to a much higher value (1000 mm/min.) in Repetier Host via &lt;em&gt;Config -&gt; Printer Settings -&gt; Printer&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10005" LastEditorUserId="9134" LastEditDate="2018-02-23T17:56:03.023" LastActivityDate="2018-02-23T17:56:03.023" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5524" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5526" CreationDate="2018-02-21T12:15:51.290" Score="3" ViewCount="311" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am trying to use a 3D850 PLA filament which is supposed to work without any issues with any PLA printer. As a printer, I use Dagoma NEVA which is supposed to work with any PLA filament. I can print with the filament without any issue, but I encounter a problem when I need to swap the filament. Somehow 3D850 sticks within the nozzle and even when it's heated I have to push really hard with another filament to push the current filament out (usually when the nozzle is heated up I can just easily push a filament inside for it to come out of the nozzle).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any special behavior of 3D850 that may cause it to stick inside of the nozzle?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10004" LastActivityDate="2018-02-21T16:29:49.253" Title="3D850 stuck in the nozzle" Tags="|filament|pla|nozzle|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5525" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4000" CreationDate="2018-02-21T16:12:54.813" Score="-1" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I would guess (without G code) to change start G code. You should find it in Cura, the feed rate should be low there. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Try other slicer and print from SD card.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Try using other software. Try Cura it self if SD card printing is not available.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Picture is just an example what to look in Repertier or Cura.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4tQ7R.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4tQ7R.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9733" LastActivityDate="2018-02-21T16:12:54.813" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5526" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5524" CreationDate="2018-02-21T16:29:49.253" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;My guess is that  particular brand of PLA is changing state inside the nozzle as it cools. Quoting from the manufacturer's page, &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Materio3D PLA uses the NatureWorks Ingeo 3D850 polymer, specially&#xA;  engineered for 3D printing. It is tougher and stronger than standard&#xA;  PLA and can be annealed for improved heat resistance and toughness!  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the residual material in the nozzle cools slowly enough (at the end of a print) to anneal, then by design it won't re-melt at the same temperature as the raw filament material.   I would recommend changing your gcode so that the extruder hotend is held at temperature after a print completes, and making sure to clear the nozzle with an alternate type of filament before allowing the nozzle to cool.    &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;quoting from &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.pushplastic.com/products/premium-pla&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;another page&lt;/a&gt;,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;To achieve a heat treat on a printed part, submerge in water (or bake&#xA;  in oven) at 200F for up to 30 minutes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;notice that's Fahrenheit, well below extruder temperatures. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2191" LastActivityDate="2018-02-21T16:29:49.253" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5527" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5528" CreationDate="2018-02-21T23:02:18.833" Score="4" ViewCount="23338" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is the firts time that I saw this movement after the printing has finishig and causes the nozzle crashes to the printed part and I noticed due the part is 14x8 and the nozzle is to near and below to the border of the shape. I supposed that some scripts has changed but, seems to be everything ok.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;this is the end script:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;G92 E0&#xA;G1 E-1.5000 F1800&#xA;; layer end&#xA;M104 S0 ; turn off extruder&#xA;M140 S0 ; turn off bed&#xA;G28 X0  ; home X axis&#xA;M84 ; disable motors&#xA;; Build Summary&#xA;;   Build time: 3 hours 9 minutes&#xA;;   Filament length: 12689.1 mm (12.69 m)&#xA;;   Plastic volume: 30520.78 mm^3 (30.52 cc)&#xA;;   Plastic weight: 38.15 g (0.08 lb)&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Z axis moves down 4mm after finishing going to X0, why? I don't want the nozzle crashes the part on going to zero.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4454" LastActivityDate="2018-02-22T18:42:49.287" Title="Any code to move up Z axis after finishing the printing?" Tags="|g-code|z-axis|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5528" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5527" CreationDate="2018-02-22T08:41:12.807" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can use:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;G91&#xA;G1 Z10&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;code&gt;G91&lt;/code&gt; make the printer use ralative positioning, while &lt;code&gt;G1 Z10&lt;/code&gt; would move the gantry up of 10mm, reagrdless of its actual position.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In order to understand what's going on, you could experiment with the position of those lines in the script.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The safest bet it to insert them at the very top, but you could insert them straight after the homing of the X axis to understand if the drop you are seeing is caused by the homing command itself or by the ´M84´ one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My &lt;em&gt;guess&lt;/em&gt; is that the drop is actually caused by the latter.  &lt;code&gt;M84&lt;/code&gt; doesn't really &quot;disable motors&quot;, rather it stops using energy to keep them still (i.e.: it stops the &lt;em&gt;idle hold&lt;/em&gt;).  What I believe is happening in your case is that when you stop the idle hold, the weight and mechanical play of the X gantry causes it to move slightly (a bit like when you relax your body on the sofa and you &quot;sink&quot; in it a bit more).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9134" LastActivityDate="2018-02-22T08:41:12.807" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5529" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5532" CreationDate="2018-02-22T11:20:33.190" Score="3" ViewCount="671" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been asked to print a set of this:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VYHjL.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VYHjL.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2200026&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2200026&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I used Slicer with my default settings for my FLSun printer which includes support and 0.2mm layer height and that rail was printed as whole block with some excess which would allow me to remove the support, but that didn't work because the support simply melted with the top part of the rail. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tried again with no support and the first layer of the top part of the rail simply felt because there was nothing there to support it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any configuration that would allow me to print this &lt;s&gt;bridge&lt;/s&gt; overhang correctly? Maybe printing the rail diagonally?!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any help will be appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9437" LastEditorUserId="9437" LastEditDate="2018-02-23T13:36:54.893" LastActivityDate="2018-02-23T13:36:54.893" Title="Is there any setting that could allow me to print this overhang without support?" Tags="|print-quality|support-structures|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5530" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-02-22T13:57:28.667" Score="7" ViewCount="743" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there an integrated kickback protection in stepper motor drivers or should I make my own?&#xA;I am afraid the steppers might fry the driver or the arduino when i turn off the power for them.&#xA;I do that by turning off the power supply.&#xA;I haven't had an issue yet but it still bothers me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10014" LastEditorUserId="9134" LastEditDate="2018-02-22T21:13:46.880" LastActivityDate="2019-06-17T21:43:25.930" Title="Inductive kickback protection?" Tags="|electronics|stepper-driver|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5531" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5527" CreationDate="2018-02-22T18:42:49.287" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is something fundamentally wrong with your z-motor drive if both screws are dropping the gantry at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Try a couple experiments.&lt;br&gt;&#xA; Write a quick script to move the head somewhere up high, then terminate without the X-homing command.  See if the z-axis moves.  Ditto for X-home but not motor disable. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Write any script, and while the gantry is up high, pull power and see what happens.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That will at least help narrow down the list of possible problems.   In the meantime, please post your printer, the motors, and the driver board/firmware in use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2191" LastActivityDate="2018-02-22T18:42:49.287" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5532" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5529" CreationDate="2018-02-22T20:59:06.250" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;First of all a minor correction: the feature you are trying to print is not a &lt;em&gt;bridge&lt;/em&gt; (which is an unsupported length of filament between two parts of the print) but rather a &lt;em&gt;overhang&lt;/em&gt; (which is an unsupported length of filament supported only at one end).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason why your overhang is impossible to print without support is that slicers create a &lt;em&gt;shell&lt;/em&gt; first or - in other words - trace the perimeter of the layer you are printing.  This feature, combined with the fact that your overhang is perpendicular to the part it originates from, causes the printer to try to extrude into thin air the perimeter of your rail, like this (the yellow lines are the shell, the red ones the infill):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LmHKn.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LmHKn.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the image above, also the infill is extruded into thin air, but this is actually something that you can change in most slicers (look for &quot;infill pattern orientation&quot; or something similar).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One option you have is to tweak the support parameters to make it unobtrusive and easy to remove, like for example this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ePRB4.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ePRB4.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(The above was done in Cura, with infill pattern &quot;lines&quot;, spaced 5mm apart and no support interface or other additional structures).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since your parts won't be subject to a great deal of mechanical stress another solution could be to change their printing orientation.  In the following example, the &lt;em&gt;overhangs&lt;/em&gt; do actually become &lt;em&gt;bridges&lt;/em&gt; and as such should print without problems:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zLeek.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zLeek.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just consider it will take considerably longer to print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9134" LastEditorUserId="9134" LastEditDate="2018-02-23T00:30:31.310" LastActivityDate="2018-02-23T00:30:31.310" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5533" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2018-02-22T21:21:56.500" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2018-02-22T21:21:56.500" LastActivityDate="2018-02-22T21:21:56.500" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5534" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2018-02-22T21:21:56.500" Score="0" Body="Polyethylene terephthalate is the base material for a number of printing filaments like the very common PETG (glycol-modified) or PETT (Polyethylene coTrimethylene Terephthalate), the transparent variant." OwnerUserId="9134" LastEditorUserId="9134" LastEditDate="2018-05-28T10:37:49.383" LastActivityDate="2018-05-28T10:37:49.383" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5535" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5536" CreationDate="2018-02-23T04:57:20.143" Score="6" ViewCount="8574" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just got my first 3D printer today, QIDI X-ONE[2], and so far so good with the setup and getting my 1&lt;sup&gt;st&lt;/sup&gt; print. I wanted to power off the printer, but I don't see any instructions on how to properly power off the machine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know how long I should wait, or what the minimum temperature would be safe to power down the machine? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10021" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-11-07T13:56:50.317" LastActivityDate="2019-11-07T14:13:07.777" Title="Proper way to power down a FDM printer" Tags="|cooling|heat-management|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5536" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5535" CreationDate="2018-02-23T07:55:49.383" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;[TL:DR] - &lt;strong&gt;If you can comfortably hold the nozzle with your fingers, you are good to go&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In order to understand how long one should wait, it is important to understand &lt;em&gt;why&lt;/em&gt; one has to wait.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All modern consumer-grade FDM printers have their printing head made of two assemblies: the &lt;em&gt;cold end&lt;/em&gt;, where the extruder stepper motor is located and the filament must be in solid state, and the &lt;em&gt;hot end&lt;/em&gt;, where the filament is actually melted and pushed through the nozzle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Between the two there is a thin-walled length of pipe called &lt;em&gt;heat break&lt;/em&gt;, whose purpose is to keep the two separate and make difficult for heat to reach the cold end by &lt;em&gt;conduction&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, the heat break is not &quot;watertight&quot;, and heat also transmits via the convecting motion of air and IR radiation, so the cold end is actively cooled (most commonly with a fan).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The reason you want to wait before switching off the printer is that you want to keep that fan spinning &lt;em&gt;until there is no chance for the heat to creep up and melt the filament&lt;/em&gt; in the cold end&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the filament were to melt in the cold end, the extruder would clog and you would probably need to disassemble it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;In order to make sure the cooling happens, you have to make sure that your G-code tells the printer to stop heating the nozzle&lt;/strong&gt;, after the print is done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All slicers that I know of have a specific configuration setting called &quot;end G-code&quot; or something similar where you can manually insert the code you want to execute at the end of each print.  The part relevant to your question could look like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;M104 S0 ; turn off heating block&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to get fancy and your hardware has a beeper you may also try:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;M109 S60 ; wait for nozzle temp to drop to 60 °C&#xA;M300 S300 P1000 ; make a beep sound&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Typically &quot;end G-code&quot; has other stuff too (move the head out of the way, switch off the heated bed, disable the idle hold of the steppers...)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just make sure to move the nozzle away from the printer as your first action: you don't want the hot nozzle to linger idle above the print and ruin its top layer!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9134" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-11-07T14:13:07.777" LastActivityDate="2019-11-07T14:13:07.777" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5537" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5540" CreationDate="2018-02-23T11:09:20.070" Score="10" ViewCount="17731" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is the power consumption of your heatbed (size) and hotend (model)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to verify that it is possible to use a battery to power them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user9350" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-03-25T12:05:40.087" LastActivityDate="2019-04-06T19:23:22.647" Title="What is the power consumption of the heatbed and hotend?" Tags="|heated-bed|hotend|switching-power-supply|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5539" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-02-23T12:55:34.313" Score="1" ViewCount="308" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I found a vase on &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2421704&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;thingiverse&lt;/a&gt; and I wanted to print it, so obviously I did. I used craft ware to slice the model using there 'vase mode', and sent the Gcode to my Anet A6 printer. In the end I found weird underextrusion (I think that is what happened) at the starting points that seem to have appeared. I don't know what to think of this and I don't know what happened or how to fix it.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tmWCD.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tmWCD.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;3D printed vase&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8835" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2019-08-31T08:24:10.937" LastActivityDate="2019-08-31T08:24:10.937" Title="Under-extrusion in vase mode" Tags="|anet-a6|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5540" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5537" CreationDate="2018-02-23T13:58:32.337" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Kill-A-Watt meter so I got a pretty good measurement for you with my Anet A6. Like Petar said each model is different but this should give you a idea. When heating both the nozzle and heat bed the printer consumes 160&amp;nbsp;W of power, once to temp it backs down to 9&amp;nbsp;W (it also uses 9&amp;nbsp;W when just &quot;sitting doing nothing and is on&quot;). When the nozzle and bed get down in temp it hits back up to 160&amp;nbsp;W. Basically it is never a consistent heating, it is on and off. Like a refrigerator. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When it comes to heating only the nozzle the printer uses 60&amp;nbsp;W (so 51&amp;nbsp;W is going to the nozzle for heating).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When it comes to heating only the bed the printer uses 142&amp;nbsp;W (133&amp;nbsp;W to the bed).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is interesting because it would make sense the printer needs more than 160&amp;nbsp;W when 51&amp;nbsp;W is going for the nozzle and 142&amp;nbsp;W going to the bed, that makes 193&amp;nbsp;W. I make mention of this because that may suggest my power supply is not big enough and the printer could really use around 200&amp;nbsp;W. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a little bonus when the printer is moving around (stepper motors are active) I find it using 35-40&amp;nbsp;W (or 26-31&amp;nbsp;W) to power the steppers. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So with all the said, is it possible to use a battery? Yes, you could. And to give a example a car battery should have 80 Amp-hours (or something like that, but we will go with it). With that battery you can get 960&amp;nbsp;Wh (Watt-hours) from the battery before it dies. Going with my printer using 160&amp;nbsp;W I will get 6 hours of printing time. But keep in mind as the battery is used the voltage will drop, so in the end the printer will be getting something like 10&amp;nbsp;V which I am sure will affect heating and overall performance. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Last thing I feel that needs to be said. If using a inverter to convert the 12&amp;nbsp;V battery to 110&amp;nbsp;V (or whatever voltage you use) a cheap one will not be healthy for the printer. Cheap inverters put out square waves instead of sines waves. Basically it will hurt the printer. You can learn more at this &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.zelect.in/inverter/square-wave-inverter-vs-sine-wave-inverter&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;WEBSITE&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;Update&quot; on March 4&#xA;I read a comment that mentioned running right off the battery without a battery and then I thought of something that I did not think of before. And that would be protecting the battery itself&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I said you can run the printer off the battery. There was one issue that I had not thought of. And that was the voltage drop and the battery discharged. A battery usually does not have voltage-cut off to keep the battery from being overly discharged, and a printer does not have anything to measure voltage (why should it). So a simple hook up of a 3D printer to a battery is prone to drain the battery much lower than 10&amp;nbsp;V, which will greatly shorten a battery life-span. This can be prevented two ways. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A circuit between battery and 3D printer. There is plenty of circuits that can be bought as long as they cut power to printer at 10&amp;nbsp;V or something (for lead acid anyway) and can handle the amperage draw. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An inverter can also be used because this voltage cut off is already in them. But remember that square waves are bad for the printer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8835" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-04-06T19:23:22.647" LastActivityDate="2019-04-06T19:23:22.647" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5541" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-02-23T15:25:27.570" Score="-4" ViewCount="237" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is it possible to design a heat block without cartridge heater?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My idea is to build a very small heat block to increase/decrease the heat as fast as possible. The resistance of the heat block will be used. The current to this block is 500mA and is set constant with a circuit. The voltage will be set with pwm. Is this possible with 500mA and 5V (2,5W)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user9350" LastActivityDate="2018-02-26T13:10:08.190" Title="Heat block design without cartridge heater" Tags="|electronics|hotend|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5542" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5541" CreationDate="2018-02-23T15:41:48.640" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The current to this block is 500mA and is set constant with a circuit. The voltage will be set with pwm. Is this possible with 500mA and 5V (2,5W)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This means that the resistance of the heat block would have to be, by Ohm's law, 10 Ohms. You can't set voltage and current independently of each other, which it sounds like you're attempting to do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2.5W is also rather low power, considering typical heating elements are 25W or even 40W. ABS plastic has a specific heat of ~1300 J/(kg K). Typical printing speeds are 20 grams/hour, so if you have to heat up the filament by 200 degrees C, you need a minimum of 1.44W. 2.5W leaves awfully little room (~1W) for losses due to convection or radiation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastActivityDate="2018-02-23T15:41:48.640" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5543" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5541" CreationDate="2018-02-23T15:49:23.673" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm afraid the idea itself is questionable. :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Part of the reason for having a heat &lt;em&gt;block&lt;/em&gt; in the first place is to &lt;strong&gt;leverage the &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Volumetric_heat_capacity&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;volumetric heat capacity&lt;/a&gt; of the block&lt;/strong&gt; to maintain the temperature constant even thought the extrusion speed (and thus the rate at which energy is used to make plastic warm and change state) is not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A smaller block would probably:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;require a lot more power to operate in order to compensate for the missing thermal inertia (most PSUs are already &quot;stretched&quot; when it comes to power requirements)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;cause the temperature to fluctuate, with negative effects on the print quality&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A second problem I see is that &lt;strong&gt;you would most probably electrify the whole printer&lt;/strong&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;creating a hazard&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;affecting the ground level and thus - potentially - the proper functioning of all electronics&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9134" LastEditorUserId="9134" LastEditDate="2018-02-23T15:55:42.770" LastActivityDate="2018-02-23T15:55:42.770" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5544" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-02-23T22:01:25.383" Score="6" ViewCount="5005" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know of a good way to convert a 3D print file, like STL, to STEP - a useable file format for plastic injection molding companies?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have tried to convert the files through a couple of programs without success. The most requested file is a STP or STEP file.  If there’s no easy way to convert it, which I don’t think there is, does anyone know someone good at re-creating CAD files?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10030" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2020-06-25T21:12:08.303" LastActivityDate="2020-06-25T21:12:08.303" Title="STL to STP CAD Conversion" Tags="|3d-design|stl|cad|.step|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5546" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5544" CreationDate="2018-02-23T23:27:01.793" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been able to manipulate an STL file using the hobbyist version (free) of Fusion 360. There's a series of steps involved that may require some research and experimentation, at least it did in my case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One loads the STL file into Fusion 360 by using Insert, Mesh.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once loaded, turn off history.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The next step is to &lt;a href=&quot;https://knowledge.autodesk.com/support/fusion-360/learn-explore/caas/sfdcarticles/sfdcarticles/How-to-Convert-a-Mesh-to-a-BRep-in-Fusion-360.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;convert the mesh file to BREP&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In that form, the surfaces can be edited and the model can be modified if necessary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have not exported to STEP, but have confirmed that &lt;a href=&quot;https://knowledge.autodesk.com/support/fusion-360/learn-explore/caas/sfdcarticles/sfdcarticles/How-to-export-a-design-in-Fusion-360.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Fusion 360 supports STEP&lt;/a&gt; as a valid export file format.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both links provide additional information that may be of value to your project.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Consider also to double check your STL file to ensure it is manifold. &lt;a href=&quot;http://meshmixer.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Meshmixer&lt;/a&gt; is useful for such purposes. One model imported into Fusion 360 had entire faces removed due to a manifold error in the original model.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastActivityDate="2018-02-23T23:27:01.793" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5548" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5544" CreationDate="2018-02-24T08:09:40.450" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The fact you may be able to produce a STP file is no guarantee the company will be able to injection mold it.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should ask the intended recipient of the file what are the &lt;em&gt;actual&lt;/em&gt; requirements they need for making the injection mold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;STEP and STL are not two different ways to store the same information&lt;/strong&gt;.  They are two different standards with different goals.  Both can describe the geometry of a solid shape, but &lt;strong&gt;STEP has plenty more of functionality&lt;/strong&gt; designed to store information about the manufacturing process of the part.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, while most CAD software deals with the STEP substandard AP 203 &quot;configuration controlled 3D design&quot; &lt;strong&gt;it may be that the company you are trying to work with requires information about the injection molding process itself&lt;/strong&gt;, that would probably be regulated by the AP 223 part of the standard (&quot;exchange of design and manufacturing product information for cast parts&quot;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If that is the case, &lt;strong&gt;I strongly doubt any CAD software will be able to automagically create that information out of thin air&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With an analogy: it is like you were dealing with a TXT file and the publishing company asked for a DOCX one.  You may easily save the TXT as a DOCX, but what the publisher is really after is a document with a hierarchy of titles, font information, formatting, etc... and just saving the TXT as DOCX won't automatically generate those.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9134" LastEditorUserId="9134" LastEditDate="2018-02-24T11:58:18.747" LastActivityDate="2018-02-24T11:58:18.747" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5550" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5226" CreationDate="2018-02-24T10:47:35.233" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Cura 3.1 to 3.2.1 (date today is 2018-Feb-24): The Support Z Distance only changes the Support Bottom Distance and NOT the Support Top Distance. By activating the two sub-options you can configure this again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9575" LastActivityDate="2018-02-24T10:47:35.233" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5552" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5553" CreationDate="2018-02-25T03:00:46.800" Score="6" ViewCount="502" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't know how to word this right now but I am going to try my best... moving on!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I was playing with my slicing software (Craftware) and I was looking at two infill patterns, Square and Parallel. When looking at strength, print quality, and time does Square really benefit a whole lot over parallel? I ask because Parallel does not use near the filament and has less contact points on the model. I provided pictures of both to give a visual. Can I use parallel and still get super strong and good looking parts?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3gZ0f.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3gZ0f.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Parallel&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;Parallel infill pattern&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QJfUd.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QJfUd.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Square&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;Square infill pattern&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I didn't include something or not making sense ask in the comments and I will answer/edit as needed. Thank you!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8835" LastActivityDate="2018-08-12T13:31:55.380" Title="Square and parallel infill patterns" Tags="|infill|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5553" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5552" CreationDate="2018-02-25T08:29:39.053" Score="4" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;... does Square really benefit a whole lot over parallel?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That would depend by the definition of &quot;a whole lot&quot;, of course! :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Strength&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Generally speaking, &lt;strong&gt;the variable you want to operate to tweak the overall sturdiness of your part is not the &lt;em&gt;type&lt;/em&gt; of infill, but rather its &lt;em&gt;density&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;.  According to the literature I have access to, sturdiness grow fast until about 60&amp;nbsp;% infill, then the gains become progressively more marginal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Different &lt;em&gt;types&lt;/em&gt; of infill modify the way the part reacts to stresses.  The two you showcased, for example, are strongly &lt;em&gt;anisotropic&lt;/em&gt;: a part with those infill will resist a lot more to stresses along the Z axis than along either the X or Y ones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, relative to the &lt;em&gt;squared&lt;/em&gt; infill pattern, my experience is that parts with a &lt;em&gt;parallel&lt;/em&gt; infill pattern typically have a bit more give when squashed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In case you wonder: &lt;em&gt;cubic&lt;/em&gt;, &lt;em&gt;cubic subdivision&lt;/em&gt; (and solid) infills are those regarded as offering the most equal resistance along all axis.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, &lt;strong&gt;the way the infill will affect rigidity and sturdiness of a part is as much dependent from the &lt;em&gt;type of filament&lt;/em&gt; and the &lt;em&gt;shape of the part&lt;/em&gt; as much as from the infill settings&lt;/strong&gt;, so - if you are after precise numbers - you should most definitely run some tests.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Time&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That depends entirely from the part shape and size.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Typically, &lt;strong&gt;a printer will spend most of its time printing the shell&lt;/strong&gt;. This is due both to the settings (you want to go slow on the shell to increase quality) and to physics, the shell typically requiring many more changes of direction (and thus accelerations and decelerations) than the infill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, even if the parallel infill requires about half the work of the squared one (50&amp;nbsp;% faster), in a small print with a sparse infill, the total time spent doing infill may be 10&amp;nbsp;%, thus the net gain would be only 5&amp;nbsp;% of the total printing time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Quality&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;This is very printer-dependent&lt;/strong&gt;. For me, when printing with two shells, I can't tell the difference on any infill. For the top layer, the quality is affected more by infill density than type (with the filament sagging slightly between walls if the infill is very sparse).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9134" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-08-12T13:31:55.380" LastActivityDate="2018-08-12T13:31:55.380" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5554" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5555" CreationDate="2018-02-25T08:58:58.680" Score="4" ViewCount="998" Body="&lt;p&gt;When going through printer reviews, I often see the presence of a MOSFET listed as an important safety feature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I understand the MOSFET to be a transistor, but I haven't understood &lt;strong&gt;how it is used in the circuitry of a printer&lt;/strong&gt;, and - above all - &lt;strong&gt;why it increases the overall operating safety of the printer&lt;/strong&gt; (nor what the less safe option would be).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9134" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-04-07T00:17:10.400" LastActivityDate="2018-04-07T00:17:10.400" Title="MOSFET as a safety feature" Tags="|electronics|switching-power-supply|safety|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5555" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5554" CreationDate="2018-02-25T14:02:49.550" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the world of (cheap) printers, &quot;MOSFET&quot; has taken on a meaning of its own.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a long time, 3D printers have had MOSFETs on board of their motherboards to switch the heated bed. In the past two years or so, we've seen a surge of (mainly) Chinese printers where the on-board MOSFETs (or, more often, the terminal blocks) weren't rated for the high current for the heated bed and would melt down or catch fire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;People then started recommending fixes to these issues, such as using a relay, soldering wires directly to the board (to bypass the terminal blocks) or using an external (better) MOSFET. Eventually, manufacturers caught on and started offering &quot;MOSFET boards&quot; which basically consist of a high-power MOSFET, high-current rated terminal blocks and (often) an optocoupler to isolate the drive signal from the bed power (but this doesn't really do anything; there's no need for this isolation). These boards are meant to be used to switch the high current to the bed directly, without it passing through the main board (and instead, the bed output of the main board is used as a control signal for the MOSFET board).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;People often refer to these pre-made &quot;MOSFET boards&quot; simply as &quot;MOSFETs&quot; but there is more to them than just a single transistor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;why it increases the overall operating safety of the printer&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using an external MOSFET board &lt;strong&gt;does not increase the safety of the printer at all, unless the main board of the printer is badly designed&lt;/strong&gt;. There's no reason the MOSFET needs to be external and can't be integrated on the main board. Essentially, any company that is offering a printer &quot;with a MOSFET (board)&quot; is saying that their main board is poorly designed and that they've included a band-aid fix. Or, perhaps, because installing an external MOSFET is such a common &quot;mod&quot; nowadays, they're advertising an external MOSFET because it is what people want to see (even if the main board might have a perfectly capable MOSFET already...).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastEditorUserId="26" LastEditDate="2018-02-25T20:46:53.590" LastActivityDate="2018-02-25T20:46:53.590" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5556" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5530" CreationDate="2018-02-25T14:19:24.247" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Kinda, sort of, but not really. I'll look at the A4988 (&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.pololu.com/file/0J450/a4988_DMOS_microstepping_driver_with_translator.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;datasheet&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The motor pins are connected by diodes to ground and Vbb (the motor suppply voltage). Essentially, they act as a bridge rectifier making any back EMF or inductive spikes appear (rectified) on Vbb. If you were to suddenly power down the driver this could cause a rather large spike on Vbb.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to the datasheet, there is a 40&amp;nbsp;V Zener on Vbb which will clamp the voltage to that level. (Another popular stepper driver, the DRV8825, does not appear to have this Zener - always check your datasheet!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, yes, there is inductive kickback protection. However, it only clamps the voltage to 40&amp;nbsp;V. Depending on the rest of your circuit, this could be quite damaging.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The datasheet recommends that a 100&amp;nbsp;&amp;mu;F capacitor be placed on Vbb. If you are driving a typical stepper motor with 2&amp;nbsp;A and 4&amp;nbsp;mH coil inductance, the energy stored in the coil is 8&amp;nbsp;mJ. This energy is only enough to take the capacitor up from 12&amp;nbsp;V to ~17.5&amp;nbsp;V, so if you have a large enough capacitor on your stepper driver (as you should!) then you're protected against inductive kickback.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that if you move the motors by hand then you can still build up a higher voltage on Vbb. I've heard anecdotes of people who damaged their printers like that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-06-17T21:43:25.930" LastActivityDate="2019-06-17T21:43:25.930" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5558" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5560" CreationDate="2018-02-26T10:12:59.667" Score="3" ViewCount="2650" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am having problems with my tevo tarantula large bed 12Volt power supply, I am getting the thermal protection message when heating my bed with target temperature set to 115 degrees.&#xA;The process slows down after reaching 90.&#xA;I changed merlin settings to trigger thermal shutdown after 5minutes/2degrees and added a cover to the printer, so getting now 103 degrees (usually shutdown was at 100/101).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;link to a video showing panel: &lt;a href=&quot;https://photos.app.goo.gl/jiW9NE7wEB4H0mOy1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://photos.app.goo.gl/jiW9NE7wEB4H0mOy1&lt;/a&gt; &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/l3D0P.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/l3D0P.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;printer under the polystyrene cover&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9730" LastEditorUserId="9730" LastEditDate="2018-02-26T13:57:40.613" LastActivityDate="2018-02-27T09:07:46.110" Title="How to increase bed temperature over 103 degrees" Tags="|heated-bed|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5559" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5541" CreationDate="2018-02-26T13:10:08.190" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;2.5W of electrical energy defines the heating rate for a specific mass (and thermal capacity of the material).  It also determines the highest attainable temperature for a specific emissivity (clue, it won't get hot).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any switching circuit to match the resistance of a block of metal to a 2.5W power source is a switch mode power supply in disguise. Yes, you can generate 150mV at 16A, but you need very thick wires to avoid loosing most of your generated power in the circuit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4927" LastActivityDate="2018-02-26T13:10:08.190" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5560" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5558" CreationDate="2018-02-26T14:17:27.630" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You need to increase the power of the heated bed. With a given amount of power, there is an upper limit to the maximum temperature you can reach because at a given point losses due to conduction, convection and radiation will balance out the heating power and the temperature will not increase any more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sometimes, inability of the bed to heat up is due to the supply voltage sagging under load. First, measure the supply voltage with and without the bed turned on. If you find the supply drops significantly when the bed is turned on, you need a new power supply.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Otherwise, you will need to either:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Get a new, higher-power heated bed. Make sure that it is compatible with your electronics, or upgrade them as needed.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Increase the supply voltage so that the bed you already have will give more power. Some power supplies have a small adjustment potentiometer that lets you adjust the output voltage. Be careful when doing this. Even a small change in voltage gives a big increase in power. For a heated bed with resistance R at voltage U, the power dissipation is U&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;/R. Going from 12V to 13.5V already gives 26% more power.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastActivityDate="2018-02-26T14:17:27.630" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5561" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2018-02-26T14:47:28.750" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2018-02-26T14:47:28.750" LastActivityDate="2018-02-26T14:47:28.750" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5562" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2018-02-26T14:47:28.750" Score="0" Body="Ghosting refers to ripples in a print related to the geometry of the part. In an FDM printer, the ripples are caused by mechanical vibrations related to acceleration of parts of the printer." OwnerUserId="4927" LastEditorUserId="4927" LastEditDate="2018-03-25T12:11:11.143" LastActivityDate="2018-03-25T12:11:11.143" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5563" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2018-02-26T14:50:16.610" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Bed leveling is the process of calibrating the level of the bed in relation to other axes (usually the z axis) of the printer. Do note that the term leveling is known as tramming. This is based on the principle of reference (the level of the bed is related to the plane or axis you level it to), and has nothing to do with bubble level.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The process of leveling can be either a manual or an automated process. The latter is frequently used with some sort of a sensor to sense the distance to the platform; such a process is referred to as Auto Bed Leveling (ABL). These sensors scan the build surface to compensate for local or global surface deficiencies.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See also &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/automatic-bed-leveling&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;automatic-bed-leveling&amp;#39;&quot; aria-label=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;automatic-bed-leveling&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot; aria-labelledby=&quot;tag-automatic-bed-leveling-tooltip-container&quot;&gt;automatic-bed-leveling&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2023-04-08T01:56:25.240" LastActivityDate="2023-04-08T01:56:25.240" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5564" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2018-02-26T14:50:16.610" Score="0" Body="Use this tag for questions regarding the manual or automatic leveling of the build platform." OwnerUserId="4927" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-10-03T10:07:23.660" LastActivityDate="2018-10-03T10:07:23.660" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5565" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5539" CreationDate="2018-02-26T15:03:44.920" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This sort of failure is best diagnosed by observing the failure. It probably isn't underextrusion, there is no reason to get variation in extrusion just along one edge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Did you really get a proper vase-mode? You can check in your slicer, or with &lt;a href=&quot;http://gcode.ws&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;gcode.ws&lt;/a&gt; and make sure that each layer only occupies a fraction of the part, with many small steps (rather than one step after printing a slice of the whole part)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems the failure is close to a sharp transition in the wall. Have you got enough cooling, or a low enough extrusion temperature? It could be that the plastic viscosity and surface tension are conspiring against the shape. Printing slower might possibly help too (both on the failure, and to allow the part to cool between layers).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, you might have a mechanical problem which is interfering with the print just at this point, and that might include the extruder binding in some way. This could be hard to spot during the print, so check over all the moving parts, and all the fixings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4927" LastActivityDate="2018-02-26T15:03:44.920" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5566" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2643" CreationDate="2018-02-26T17:55:56.077" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The most likely problem is that your thermistor is either broken or not screwed in correctly. If this is not the case you should either check look through your firmware for issues, or buy a new heater cartridge and thermistor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7019" LastActivityDate="2018-02-26T17:55:56.077" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5568" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3278" CreationDate="2018-02-27T02:28:06.387" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I ordered an authentic Arduino Mega today after the voltage regulator on my Chinese clone Mega went up in smoke. But I couldn't wait two whole days so I dug around and found an old 7805 (less than US$1 new btw) and soldered it in. It worked! Just one more possible solution. Actually that's two if you count buying a real Arduino.&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AYxAh.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AYxAh.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;7805 on Mega clone board&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10052" LastActivityDate="2018-02-27T02:28:06.387" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5569" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5537" CreationDate="2018-02-27T08:28:03.203" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;To answer the underlying (X-Y) question, yes it is possible to power a small 3D printer from a battery pack. &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.3ders.org/articles/20171005-naomi-sexycyborg-wu-3d-prints-on-the-go-with-awesome-wearable-3d-printer.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;This Article&lt;/a&gt; describes a printer built by Naomi Wu, mounted on a frame to carry around whilst printing, as a 'novel' style of sponsored video. The printer here is a BIQU Delta printer, and the power supply is 2x 3Ah batteries (guessing this is @12V, but it's not clear). Presumably there is no heated bed, but still the run-time will be quite limited.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The important part for working out battery life is the duty cycle of the hot-end, not the load required to get it up to temperature. This probably comes to something like 15-30 watts on average, provided you can live without a heated bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, if you have 10-15v batteries, the printer will probably run off these directly, no need to waste energy converting up to 110/220V and back again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4927" LastEditorUserId="4927" LastEditDate="2018-02-27T08:33:08.157" LastActivityDate="2018-02-27T08:33:08.157" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5570" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5558" CreationDate="2018-02-27T09:07:46.110" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some simple steps that may help to reach higher temperature:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check if you can use heated bed insulation of any kind - the most common approach is to use cork sheet&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Protect heated bed and printer from any possible air movements - arrange a set of walls around printer or just simply put it in the cardboard box large enough&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cover heated bed with cloth or cork sheet until it reaches desired temperature&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Replace wires from heated bed to the power supply with thicker ones (2.mm&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; / AWG14 should be fine)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3839" LastActivityDate="2018-02-27T09:07:46.110" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5571" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5572" CreationDate="2018-02-27T18:25:22.440" Score="11" ViewCount="2315" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd like to secure bushings in 3D printed parts. They would be used for a drilling jig. I've seen heat-set inserts, but they've all had threaded interiors. The best idea I can come up with is printing the plastic hole several thousandths of an inch larger than the bushing and applying a lot of epoxy to the OD of the bearing and inserting it. Is there a better way?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As an aside, I had a hard time finding proper tags.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10068" LastActivityDate="2018-02-27T19:20:57.953" Title="What's a good way to secure bushings in a 3D printed part?" Tags="|3d-design|hardware|metal-parts|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5572" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5571" CreationDate="2018-02-27T19:20:57.953" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the outside of the bushing will bond well to the epoxy, your method is simple and likely to be effective.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could use the same method used for threaded inserts by roughing the exterior of the bushing, heating it and forcing it into a correctly sized hole printed in the model.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The threaded inserts are knurled or otherwise textured to provide stronger bond with the melted plastic. Knurling your bushing is more complex than a good epoxy bond.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've discovered a product called &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.carrlane.com/en-us/product/drill-jig-bushings/castable-bushings&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;castable bushings&lt;/a&gt;&quot; which would appear to meet the above requirements for heated inserts:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uZ7VQ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uZ7VQ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;knurled bushing&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The product listing indicates that these are used for drilling jigs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It might be less messy but more expensive to purchase and use these as opposed to epoxy and a bit of sanding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastActivityDate="2018-02-27T19:20:57.953" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5573" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5544" CreationDate="2018-02-28T11:01:00.590" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It depends very much on the molding company, and how much engineering service you can afford to buy from them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some will remodel your entire part anyway, to make it suitable for molding. Others will only accept specific formats and parts that are engineered 100&amp;nbsp;% ready to be molded.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So talk to them first, if they only use your file as a template, it won't matter what format it is in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To answer the question:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I believe &lt;a href=&quot;https://freecadweb.org&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;FreeCad&lt;/a&gt; can load STL, and export STP but, like Mac said, it may not be the result you need.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;STL = Surface Tessellation Language. This stores the geometry as approximated by a mesh of triangles. It is incapable of perfect curves, so there is some information lost when the model was exported to STL.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;STP or STEP can represent surfaces correctly, but only if that information is present in the model. Put in a tessellated model and it will still be tessellated. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4406" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-11-30T05:20:30.003" LastActivityDate="2018-11-30T05:20:30.003" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5575" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-02-28T18:30:30.120" Score="2" ViewCount="244" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have modified my Prusa i3 MK2 printer so that the existing extruder motor has now been attached to a 5mm lead screw with a 1mm pitch. What is the easiest way to control the extruding of the printer now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example is it possible to change the settings in slic3er at all for the extruder? or would I have to download and edit the marlin firmware?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10000" LastActivityDate="2018-02-28T20:42:07.930" Title="Z axis Control of Prusa i3" Tags="|prusa-i3|z-axis|prusa-i3-rework|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5576" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5575" CreationDate="2018-02-28T18:52:35.820" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The firmware of the printer reads the g-code, in this instance, for z-axis movement. The g-code provides only (primarily) millimeters of movement and direction, along with speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The firmware reads those figures, figuratively speaking, and knows from the values stored in the firmware, how many steps to rotate the motor, in what direction and at what rate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suppose if you were a glutton for punishment, you could write some code to convert the existing measurements to ones that are adjusted for the new screw, but that's just crazy. Imagine that your new screw provides for 3.729 times the movement that the old screw did per unit of rotation. You'd have to find all the z-movements in the code and apply that factor to those numbers. I suspect rounding errors might make for a less-than-satisfactory print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you've mentioned in your question about editing the firmware, one may expect that you have an idea what is involved. If not, that may be the topic of another post.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastActivityDate="2018-02-28T18:52:35.820" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5577" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5575" CreationDate="2018-02-28T20:42:07.930" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can set the 'steps per mm' for the extruder (and the other axes) by sending GCODE to the printer, and store this in the internal memory. Re-flashing the firmware only affects the 'factory reset' configuration of the printer parameters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To see how to calibrate your extruder, you're probably best looking for videos since although the process is just a few GCODE commands, the whole process is not easy to understand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4927" LastActivityDate="2018-02-28T20:42:07.930" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5578" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="522" CreationDate="2018-03-01T00:36:26.497" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I´m using this code for my prints.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;    G29 ; Autonivel&#xA;    M190 S35 ; set bed temperature&#xA;    G1 Z4 F240 ; lift nozzle&#xA;    M109 S195 ; wait for temperature to be reached&#xA;    G21 ; set units to millimeters&#xA;    G90 ; use absolute coordinates&#xA;    M82 ; use absolute distances for extrusion&#xA;    M104 S210 ; set temperature&#xA;    G92 E0&#xA;G1 E-1.5000 F1800&#xA;G1 Z0.225 F240&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On M190 S35, the nozzle is still on the low position (1.2mm), then goes to 4mm then waits for the extruder temperature Ex. 195°C; when the extruder reach the 195°C for 10 seconds then the printers starts to print going the nozzle to 0.22mm while the nozzle reach the second temperature of 210°C. On This time its allow me to clean the nozzle and normalize the temperatures for a good prints.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Note:&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;To avoid the nozzle stays many time on low position (1.2mm) normally I preheat the bed at 35°C. some times to heat the bed takes a longer time than heating the nozzle. This is the main reason that I prefer to preheat the printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4454" LastActivityDate="2018-03-01T00:36:26.497" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5579" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-03-01T02:09:02.790" Score="2" ViewCount="3502" Body="&lt;p&gt;Anybody ever tried to retrofit a heatbed to the da Vinci mini w with the proper dimensions (165 mm x 165 mm or 6.5&amp;quot; x 6.5&amp;quot;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Where can I find a heatbed that fits and a corresponding power supply / PID controller?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9974" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-03-15T07:58:45.437" LastActivityDate="2021-07-23T15:39:21.397" Title="Heated bed for the XYZprinting da Vinci mini w" Tags="|heated-bed|xyz-da-vinci-mini-w|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5580" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4251" CreationDate="2018-03-01T08:55:32.263" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The problem is in the code.&#xA;Please use these:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;// The size of the print bed&#xA;#define X_BED_SIZE 220&#xA;#define Y_BED_SIZE 220&#xA;&#xA;// Travel limits (mm) after homing, corresponding to endstop positions.&#xA;#define X_MIN_POS 5&#xA;#define Y_MIN_POS 0&#xA;#define Z_MIN_POS 0&#xA;#define X_MAX_POS X_BED_SIZE&#xA;#define Y_MAX_POS Y_BED_SIZE&#xA;#define Z_MAX_POS 240&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your problem will be ok.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10079" LastEditorUserId="4927" LastEditDate="2018-03-01T15:35:12.310" LastActivityDate="2018-03-01T15:35:12.310" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5581" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-03-03T09:31:56.497" Score="7" ViewCount="2007" Body="&lt;p&gt;So the heated bed I got with my anet a8 is not entirely even. The middle of the bed is lower than the outer edges of the bed, which always causes issues with the first layer, especially with a larger print. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know I could do mesh bed leveling but I don't want to have to do that every time before I print. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So my question is, where do I find a heated bed that I can be sure of will be even and not have dents anywhere?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10100" LastEditorUserId="4927" LastEditDate="2018-03-04T13:51:40.100" LastActivityDate="2018-03-13T04:28:32.453" Title="Flat heated bed replacement for uneven bed" Tags="|heated-bed|anet-a8|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5582" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5583" CreationDate="2018-03-03T12:16:30.540" Score="2" ViewCount="2315" Body="&lt;p&gt;This print failed a couple of hours in. I was wondering if the nature of the print surface, with lots of retracts (similarly the previous print which was OK) might have contributed to the clog, or if it's just bad luck? To be clear, the surface has lots of short dead-end, not just a wiggly perimeter. &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iymMN.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iymMN.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;The filament seemed to have stopped moving, and was cut through by the drive gear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This was a genuine Titan Aero extruder, 0.4mm nozzle, 215C (on an Anet a8 printer)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4927" LastEditorUserId="4927" LastEditDate="2018-03-03T16:51:53.853" LastActivityDate="2018-03-05T13:47:53.677" Title="Do more retracts lead to extruder jams" Tags="|print-quality|extruder|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5583" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5582" CreationDate="2018-03-03T14:29:09.890" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Reading your question it's not clear to me if you are referring to &lt;em&gt;filament retraction&lt;/em&gt; (which is a configurable setting) or &lt;em&gt;surface recesses&lt;/em&gt; which seems what you are referring to when writing:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;the nature of the print surface, with lots of retracts&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it is the latter, then the answer is &quot;no&quot;.  The amount of complexity of the surface of the model does not correlate &lt;em&gt;directly&lt;/em&gt; to the possibility of the printer head clogging.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it is the former, then the answer is &quot;possibly&quot;.  &lt;strong&gt;It is in fact not so much the amount of retracts that affects the likelihood of a clog but rather their speed and lenght&lt;/strong&gt;.  If you retract &lt;em&gt;too quickly&lt;/em&gt; and &lt;em&gt;too much&lt;/em&gt; filament, you risk to have molten plastic being &quot;sucked&quot; into the cold end, solidify, and act as a glue, blocking the filament in place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;This is especially true for all-metal print heads&lt;/strong&gt; like titan aero, as plastic sticks a lot better to metal than to PTFE.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, &lt;strong&gt;with a &lt;em&gt;properly calibrated&lt;/em&gt; retraction, you shouldn't experience problems&lt;/strong&gt; regardless of how many times / how often you retract the filament.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In general, it is a common misconception that retraction should work as a plunger, actively sucking in plastic that would otherwise ooze out of the nozzle.  However &lt;strong&gt;all you need is to just release the pressure within the melting chamber, and in a direct drive (i.e.: non-bowden) extruder, this requires a very minimal retraction&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally: what material are you printing in?  The picture shows a lot of oozing for being PLA. If you are using a flexible material like nylon or ninjaflex, you should probably just let retraction alone: the hysteresis in such materials is very high, and retraction often does not work predictably.  If it is PLA, I would try to increase the movement and retraction speed, and probably lower the temperature 10 or 15 degrees.  As for the retraction lenght, I don't own a titan, but I would expect the correct amount to be somewhere between 0.5mm and 2mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9134" LastEditorUserId="9134" LastEditDate="2018-03-03T14:53:28.733" LastActivityDate="2018-03-03T14:53:28.733" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5584" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3755" CreationDate="2018-03-03T19:53:50.360" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here's a tidbit that might be helpful to people.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;3D Printer: Tronxy X1  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;OS: Windows 10 (PC) &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;SW: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.repetier.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Repetier-Host&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;v2.0.5&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The TronXY X1 boots at 115200 baud (you can change it in Configuration, but each power on it will reset to 115200).&#xA;In Repetier Printer Settings I set the baud rate to match at 115200.&#xA;My PC automatically recognized the USB device as USB-SERIAL CH340(&lt;code&gt;COM5&lt;/code&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had to go into my PC's Devices and Printers, right-click the USB-SERIAL icon, go into Properties-&gt;Hardware-&gt;Port Settings: change Bits per Second from 9600 to 115200.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All good now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10104" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-07-08T14:44:55.250" LastActivityDate="2018-07-08T14:44:55.250" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5585" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-03-04T03:47:46.307" Score="0" ViewCount="186" Body="&lt;p&gt;After doing a lot of research, I've decided I want to purchase a Creality CR-10S as my first 3D printer. I'm trying to locate a reputable, local seller. Other than Amazon, which seems to have a bit of a mark-up on price, I'm finding several websites that seem to be located outside of the US. Can anyone direct me to a seller located in the US?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10108" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2018-07-08T14:51:55.590" LastActivityDate="2019-01-21T20:47:26.877" Title="Finding a reputable seller for CR-10S" Tags="|creality-cr-10|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5586" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5585" CreationDate="2018-03-04T09:40:38.817" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am afraid unless you are available to accept the mark-up, you won't find a &lt;em&gt;reputable seller&lt;/em&gt; other than in mainland China.  The entire business model of Creality is &quot;cheap-cheap-cheap B2C&quot; and any step you add to the supply chain (like a reseller) will be:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;An added cost&lt;/strong&gt; that will be reflected on the final price you pay&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;A reseller-based initiative&lt;/strong&gt;, meaning that it won't be part of a &quot;creality global distribution network&quot;, but the project of that local entreprenour.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, I read in a couple of places that &lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.tinymachines3d.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;tiny machines&lt;/a&gt; (Houston, Texas)&lt;/strong&gt; does a good job by testing each unit prior to shipping, and has similar lead times than good sellers from China (a couple of weeks).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please note I am not affiliated with them in any way.  For that matters, I don't even leave in North America nor have purchased anything from them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9134" LastActivityDate="2018-03-04T09:40:38.817" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5587" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5581" CreationDate="2018-03-04T18:46:48.877" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Several things to consider:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Nothing is perfectly flat.  It is flat within a tolerance.  The bed you have now is flat to within a tolerance.  If you want a flatter bed, you are going to have to specify how flat.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;As @mac mentioned, aluminum is bendable; so, what once was flat can be made un-flat and the other way around.  Note: Your problem may not be your bed, it may be that the bed mounting frame has introduced stress that is bending the bed.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Because the heating element is applied to one side of the bed, the differential heating (between the top and the bottom) can cause the bed to bend at temperature; so, flatness could vary with temperature.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What to purchase:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The Anet A8 has a 220x220 bed.  A very popular size.  You can get replacements heated beds for as little as $20 from a lot of sources.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Because of the considerations above, rather than replacing the bed, you may want to consider attaching a 220mm x 220mm Borosilicate Glass Plate to the top of the bed.  These are also readily available (even from Amazon) for less than $20.  That is what I did.  The glass makes for a very flat surface and a great printing surface.  I attach mine with small binder clips.  That makes it easy to remove to take the print off or to clean when needed.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6417" LastEditorUserId="6417" LastEditDate="2018-03-13T04:28:32.453" LastActivityDate="2018-03-13T04:28:32.453" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5588" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5593" CreationDate="2018-03-04T19:36:09.447" Score="3" ViewCount="2538" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is an issue that's started happening recently. This is a Prusa I3 using a &lt;code&gt;1.75mm&lt;/code&gt; pla filament&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The settings for this print are as follows&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Layer height: 0.2mm&#xA;Line width: 0.4&#xA;Infill: 60%&#xA;Infill pattern: Triangles&#xA;Nozzle temp: 190C&#xA;Plate temp: 60C&#xA;Retraction distance: 8.5mm&#xA;Retraction speed: 60mm/s&#xA;Print speed: 50mm/s&#xA;Cooling fan speed: 20%&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This happened on a previous print, but not as much. The only difference is the other print was printed 10mm/s faster. I'm thinking it has to do with too much time in a certain area since it seems to happen in pretty small areas that don't required infill and print as two walls back to back &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Gr4lG.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Gr4lG.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Sample&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8792" LastActivityDate="2018-03-05T18:46:01.217" Title="Prusa I3 - Burn marks on print" Tags="|prusa-i3|pla|nozzle|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5589" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5592" CreationDate="2018-03-05T12:49:58.393" Score="6" ViewCount="845" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am building a Prusa i3 MK2S (&lt;a href=&quot;https://toms3d.org/2017/02/23/building-cheapest-possible-prusa-i3-mk2/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Dolly&lt;/a&gt;). I find it very difficult to find M5 rods for the Z axis, I have an M8 lead screw with 8&amp;nbsp;mm lead, So I thought since M8 is widely available online I could just use them instead of M5. What do you think about it? What should I keep in mind?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10117" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2019-08-31T07:57:34.880" LastActivityDate="2019-08-31T07:57:34.880" Title="Lead screws - M8 instead of M5?" Tags="|prusa-i3|diy-3d-printer|z-axis|printer-building|lead-screw|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5590" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5582" CreationDate="2018-03-05T13:47:53.677" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In addition to the retraction distance, in the case of this model, I was seeing some places where there were a lot of very close retractions. I think these were increasing the risk of damaged filament, so I reduced the 'maximum retraction count' which at 50 over a 5mm length seemed fairly high.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4927" LastActivityDate="2018-03-05T13:47:53.677" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5591" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5589" CreationDate="2018-03-05T14:29:10.910" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Amazon has a few hundred M5 rods listed for sale, so I don't know where or what you've been looking through.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you change the lead screw, you'll have to change the threaded parts on the gantry assembly to match.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More important, you'll have to adjust the Z-drive &quot;steps/mm&quot; setting to match the 8mm lead.  (with thanks to Professor for pointing out my error) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2191" LastEditorUserId="2191" LastEditDate="2018-03-05T19:24:29.513" LastActivityDate="2018-03-05T19:24:29.513" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5592" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5589" CreationDate="2018-03-05T17:26:49.397" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;as long as you match the parts that is ok.&#xA;The m8 rod will give you more stiffness and will be harder to bend.&#xA;As the result, you will have to calibrate the steps/mm settings in the firmware.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9730" LastActivityDate="2018-03-05T17:26:49.397" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5593" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5588" CreationDate="2018-03-05T18:36:54.103" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have seen this after I reassemble the extruder heat block and then leave it too loose during the print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is your extruder above the nozzle coated in a brown or black film?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What happens is the liquid plastic oozes through the loose connection, travels around the outside of the block, where it is heated longer and hotter than normal turning it black/brown. Then it drips, or flakes, into the print where it is spread around giving it a diffused look that you see.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The fix is to tighten the heating block. Do this while it is at operating temperature (be careful!) because it fits differently when cold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another cause: I made a tiny sharpie mark on my filament.  I did not realize how concentrated it would come out in the print.  Perhaps you have ink or adhesive or something on your filament that you can't see that turns brown when heated. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6620" LastEditorUserId="6620" LastEditDate="2018-03-05T18:46:01.217" LastActivityDate="2018-03-05T18:46:01.217" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5594" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-03-05T22:17:33.550" Score="8" ViewCount="2748" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been experimenting with two color prints. In my first test, I enabled a priming tower and the print came out OK, but there was definitely some oozing from the non-active head and left a lot of blemishes on the print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm trying another print now and I also enabled an ooze shield.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This got me to thinking, if you are going to print an ooze shield, do you need a priming tower?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm using a lulzbot Taz6 with the dual extruder v3&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9834" LastActivityDate="2018-06-09T12:14:53.460" Title="ooze shield vs priming tower, do you need both?" Tags="|dual-nozzle|lulzbot|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5595" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-03-06T15:58:43.843" Score="2" ViewCount="88" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking for some help with an ID3 Glacier Point 3D printer that I currently use. The hall sensors on one end of the X and Y axes have stopped functioning. I need to diagnose and confirm that the hall sensors are faulty before I can replace them (work stipulation.) I'm wondering if anyone can point me in the direction of some diagnostic technique to detect faulty hall sensors? Google hasn't been much of an aid here, unfortunately.&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/O3iyK.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;image of sensor&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10128" LastEditorUserId="4927" LastEditDate="2018-03-07T22:50:04.583" LastActivityDate="2018-08-12T13:23:03.350" Title="Hall Sensor Diagnostic" Tags="|electronics|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5596" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5752" CreationDate="2018-03-06T20:12:39.740" Score="9" ViewCount="7206" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm getting seemingly random lines scattered across the top surface of my prints:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UdXPx.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;lines1&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gf0OH.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;lines2&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Printer: Anycubic i3 mega&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Slicer: Cura 3.2.1&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Printer chosen in Cura: Prusa i3, &lt;em&gt;Gcode flavor&lt;/em&gt; changed to &lt;em&gt;RepRap&lt;/em&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Cura Profile: &lt;em&gt;Fine&lt;/em&gt;, &quot;Outer before inner walls&quot; enabled&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What might be the reason?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10131" LastActivityDate="2020-06-05T15:13:03.847" Title="Seemingly random lines on the surface" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5597" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5596" CreationDate="2018-03-06T21:29:56.153" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Our local library has a genuine Prusa i3 Mk2.5 that recently had this problem. Because of the number of fingers engaging such a system, it was not immediately discovered that a different profile had been selected in which the Z-hop was turned off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Z-hop is a feature in which the nozzle lifts slightly (and is height-adjustable) as it moves from one portion of the print to another.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to my brief research, Cura supports z-hop in the settings. Either it has to be activated or perhaps slightly increased. The aforementioned Prusa works great with 0.5 mm lift.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastActivityDate="2018-03-06T21:29:56.153" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5598" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="894" CreationDate="2018-03-06T22:08:49.933" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;To my experience, there is absolutely no problem in increasing retraction in E3D assemblies up to at least 5&amp;nbsp;mm. Typical retraction distance for my Bowden system is 3.5&amp;nbsp;mm (ABS). Clogging may occur after a series of retracts when thermal break doesn't have enough time to cool itself down.&#xA;To avoid clogging when there is a real need in long retracts (printing with filaments like PLA or PETG) you need to:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;keep amount of retracts at possible minimum&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;make sure that thermal break is properly cooled. You may want to use thermal grease and extra cooling for that&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3839" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-05-01T09:09:23.347" LastActivityDate="2019-05-01T09:09:23.347" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5599" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5589" CreationDate="2018-03-07T06:32:25.933" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can use the screws and rods you can find easily, of course some dimensions will change and is needed to adjust parameters. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I used in my first 3D printer and standard screw of 9.5mm (3/8) the main problem was the coupling available in Mexico that werer none on that time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can buy the bearings on Ali Express, they can send from there to Mexico, I guess they can deliver on your country. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The bearings has these sizes:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;where is Number ID, inner diameter, outter diameter, width.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;608ZZ 8x22x7  &#xA;607ZZ 7x19x6&#xA;6000  10x26x8&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't try to use 6000 :D is a little complicated to reduce the size for a proper coupling if you don't have a lathe. My 3rd Printer will use this kind of thread because is easily to find with no warpage and now I will use a lathe to reduce the coupling area to 8mm or 5mm since I have on hand the couplers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4454" LastActivityDate="2018-03-07T06:32:25.933" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5600" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5596" CreationDate="2018-03-07T08:02:18.533" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is the result of travel moves passing through/over the top surface. The combing setting can prevent this type of move (for walls, infill or top), and z-hop can avoid making any mark during these travels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both settings will affect speed. Z-hop will be active on every layer, for example.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4927" LastActivityDate="2018-03-07T08:02:18.533" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5601" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5391" CreationDate="2018-03-07T15:18:52.167" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It could be as Carl Witthoft said, that the thermistor is broken. But it looks like the PID is not calibrated correctly. It probably can reach higher T's but stops, because the P portion is not high enough. &#xA;Anyways, before printing use a software of your choice (Repetier, Pronterface...) and perform a PID tuning specified here:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://reprap.org/wiki/PID_Tuning&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://reprap.org/wiki/PID_Tuning&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After that everything should work out fine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10135" LastActivityDate="2018-03-07T15:18:52.167" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5602" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5607" CreationDate="2018-03-07T19:55:51.927" Score="6" ViewCount="897" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have the Anet A6 and I was wondering if it is possible to add a filament run-out sensor. I would feel better having something to stop the filament before it runs through and I have to take apart the extruder. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8835" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2019-08-31T08:23:31.270" LastActivityDate="2019-08-31T08:23:31.270" Title="Adding a filament sensor" Tags="|anet-a6|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5603" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5605" CreationDate="2018-03-08T02:16:02.417" Score="5" ViewCount="5205" Body="&lt;p&gt;One of the CAD programs I use is called &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.tinkercad.com&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;TinkerCAD&lt;/a&gt;, which lets you export your design in either STL or OBJ form. What is the difference between these two file types? And which one is better to use?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10139" LastActivityDate="2018-03-11T01:41:33.673" Title="What is the difference between STL and OBJ files and which one should I use?" Tags="|cad|stl|obj|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5604" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5606" CreationDate="2018-03-08T04:29:31.003" Score="7" ViewCount="2812" Body="&lt;p&gt;Machine specs: Prusa MK3, firmware version 3.1.2.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Facts: I have designed a new Z-axis frame for my printer, so I can print models up to 360mm high in stead of the standard 210mm.  The plan has worked and the printer is functioning normally with a new, taller z frame. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However... To calibrate, the Z lead screws carry the X carriage all the way up and bump it against the top frame mounts, to make sure the X carriage is level.    On the taller frame, the X carriage stops its ascent at 220mm and descends back toward the bed.  Because the X carriage goes up farther than it was 'supposed to' and didn't bump into anything, the calibration fails.  When the X carriage bumps into something at 210mm (like my fingers) and descends from the 'normal' frame height, the printer calibrates the bed levelling normally. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Prusa MK3 is so 'smart', it still thinks the frame will only ever be 210mm high.  How do I tell it that when calibrating, the X axis must rise to 360mm instead of 210mm?  The calibration is an integral part of the firmware... is there any way I can edit it?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I've looked at the .hex firmware file, this is the first line of a huge text file -&gt; :100000000C947D320C94AE320C94AE320C94AE3221  It means nothing to me, but I'm guessing there's a way.  After all, a cap height of 210mm had to be written in there somewhere to begin with... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any suggestions would be appreciated, &#xA;fairfarren.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10141" LastActivityDate="2018-03-08T08:32:12.790" Title="How to re-program Prusa firmware to accept a taller Z axis?" Tags="|calibration|firmware|axis|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5605" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5603" CreationDate="2018-03-08T07:46:07.737" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;STL is the &lt;em&gt;de facto&lt;/em&gt; standard in consumer-grade 3D printing&lt;/strong&gt;.  It is a bare-bone format that describes the shape of the object by defining the coordinates of all the vertices of all triangles that a surface may be subdivided into.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This means that in STL any curved surface is represented with an approximation of many very small faces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;OBJ is also somewhat common, but it was originally developed for computer graphics, not manufacturing, and as such is capaple to store information like the texture images to be applied to the surface, which are of no use in the 3D printing world.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In terms of geometry description, OBJ is more capable than STL, as it can describe &quot;real&quot; curves, without the need to approximate them to a series of polygons.  The benefit of this feature is however more theoretic than practical, as:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;most entry-level CAD software don't make use of that feature and create a STL-equivalent OBJ file (so, still with polygons)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a typical STL model for 3D printing will have enough resolution to give the illusion of perfect curves (the same way a high-res screen gives the illusion of perfect curves, despite its pixels being arranged in a squared matrix),&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the slicer/printer's firmware may themselves approximate an accurate curve to a series of segments&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Short said, &lt;strong&gt;I would suggest you use STL unless you have a specific reason not to&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you would find yourself in need to accurately describe curves I would rather use the STEP file format, as that has been specifically created for manufacturing, rather than &quot;borrowed&quot; from computer graphics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9134" LastEditorUserId="9134" LastEditDate="2018-03-11T01:41:33.673" LastActivityDate="2018-03-11T01:41:33.673" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5606" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5604" CreationDate="2018-03-08T08:32:12.790" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;A .hex file is of no use to you, because it consists of &lt;em&gt;compiled&lt;/em&gt; firmware which is very difficult to edit. You need to go to &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/prusa3d/Prusa-Firmware&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Prusa's GitHub&lt;/a&gt; and download the &lt;em&gt;source code&lt;/em&gt;. Then, find the header file for your model of printer, and change &lt;code&gt;Z_max_pos&lt;/code&gt; to the correct value. Finally, you need to compile and upload the firmware to your printer following the build instructions (see README.md). You will need to have the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.arduino.cc/en/Main/Software&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Arduino IDE&lt;/a&gt; installed to do this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastActivityDate="2018-03-08T08:32:12.790" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5607" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5602" CreationDate="2018-03-08T11:01:06.997" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;With marlin firmware:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;source here: &lt;a href=&quot;http://marlinfw.org/docs/configuration/configuration.html#filament-runout-sensor&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;filiament sensor config&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;//#define FILAMENT_RUNOUT_SENSOR&#xA;#if ENABLED(FILAMENT_RUNOUT_SENSOR)&#xA;  #define FIL_RUNOUT_INVERTING false // set to true to invert the logic of the sensor.&#xA;  #define ENDSTOPPULLUP_FIL_RUNOUT // Uncomment to use internal pullup for filament runout pins if the sensor is defined.&#xA;  #define FILAMENT_RUNOUT_SCRIPT &quot;M600&quot;&#xA;#endif&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;With this feature, a mechanical or opto endstop switch is used to&#xA;  check for the presence of filament in the feeder (usually the switch&#xA;  is closed when filament is present). If the filament runs out, Marlin&#xA;  will run the specified GCode script (by default “M600”). RAMPS-based&#xA;  boards use SERVO3_PIN. For other boards you may need to define&#xA;  FIL_RUNOUT_PIN.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and this is a nice piece of hardware: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2147179&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;run out sensor&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9730" LastActivityDate="2018-03-08T11:01:06.997" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5608" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5603" CreationDate="2018-03-08T11:09:20.480" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;While the STL-format can only describe your object aproximatively by those well known triangles, OBJ-files can describe parts of your object parametrically by curves. This can lead to a higher precision and be a huge advance with regard to scalability.&#xA;Which data format to choose depends, as always, on the application and the processes it contains. E.g. if you want to print large objects, you might consider the OBJ-format if your slicer can translate it to usable g-code.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might want to read this &lt;a href=&quot;https://all3dp.com/3d-file-format-3d-files-3d-printer-3d-cad-vrml-stl-obj/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;article on All3DP&lt;/a&gt; to get a brief overview.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9974" LastEditorUserId="9974" LastEditDate="2018-03-08T11:18:05.957" LastActivityDate="2018-03-08T11:18:05.957" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5609" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5631" CreationDate="2018-03-08T14:13:23.063" Score="9" ViewCount="7041" Body="&lt;p&gt;When printing from Cura on my laptop via USB, my extruder motor does not turn to extrude filament. However, when I use the &quot;move axis&quot; command in the firmware (on the little screen on the printer), it seems to work fine, extruding plastic smoothly. The nozzle temperature is where it should be (230 degrees or so for ABS) while printing and I get no error messages in Cura.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What would cause the extruder to not function when printing even though it seems to be fine electrically, mechanically, and in firmware? Is there g-code from Cura that could be incorrect?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure where to look for problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is my first 3D printer. It is a Alunar M508 (a Prusa clone) that I got for free in a partially disassembled state. The firmware seemed to be screwed up when I first started using it. The firmware that came on the SD card with the printer would not compile in my Arduino software, so I used a Marlin firmware from here:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/camalot/alunar-prusa-i3-marlin-i3-firmware&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://github.com/camalot/alunar-prusa-i3-marlin-i3-firmware&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had to make one change to the configuration file to reverse the X home direction, but otherwise I have not changed the firmware settings or anything. The new firmware does not recognize the SD card slot at all, but that's a different story.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm using Cura to print via USB. The printer is set up as a Prusa I3, using the &quot;Marlin&quot; GCode flavor. Nozzle size: .4mm, Compatible Material diameter: 1.75mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Start Gcode:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;G21 ;metric values&#xA;G90 ;absolute positioning&#xA;M82 ;set extruder to absolute mode&#xA;M107 ;start with the fan off&#xA;G28 X0 Y0 ;move X/Y to min endstops&#xA;G28 Z0 ;move Z to min endstops&#xA;G1 Z15.0 F9000 ;move the platform down 15mm&#xA;G92 E0 ;zero the extruded length&#xA;G1 F200 E3 ;extrude 3mm of feed stock&#xA;G92 E0 ;zero the extruded length again&#xA;G1 F9000&#xA;;Put printing message on LCD screen&#xA;M117 Printing...&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;End Gcode:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;M104 S0 ;extruder heater off&#xA;M140 S0 ;heated bed heater off (if you have it)&#xA;G91 ;relative positioning&#xA;G1 E-1 F300  ;retract the filament a bit before lifting the nozzle, to release some of the pressure&#xA;G1 Z+0.5 E-5 X-20 Y-20 F9000 ;move Z up a bit and retract filament even more&#xA;G28 X0 Y0 ;move X/Y to min endstops, so the head is out of the way&#xA;M84 ;steppers off&#xA;G90 ;absolute positioning&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit to Add some Gcode from the beginning of the test print:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;;LAYER_COUNT:127&#xA;;LAYER:0&#xA;M107&#xA;G0 F3600 X86.923 Y86.649 Z0.3&#xA;;TYPE:SKIRT&#xA;G1 F1800 X87.522 Y86.134 E0.03941&#xA;G1 X88.17 Y85.683 E0.0788&#xA;G1 X88.861 Y85.299 E0.11824&#xA;G1 X89.586 Y84.987 E0.15762&#xA;G1 X90.339 Y84.75 E0.197&#xA;G1 X91.113 Y84.591 E0.23642&#xA;G1 X91.898 Y84.51 E0.27579&#xA;G1 X92.3 Y84.5 E0.29586&#xA;G1 X117.7 Y84.5 E1.56307&#xA;G1 X118.489 Y84.54 E1.60248&#xA;G1 X119.269 Y84.659 E1.64185&#xA;G1 X120.034 Y84.857 E1.68127&#xA;G1 X120.774 Y85.131 E1.72064&#xA;G1 X121.483 Y85.479 E1.76004&#xA;G1 X122.154 Y85.897 E1.79948&#xA;G1 X122.778 Y86.38 E1.83885&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10145" LastEditorUserId="10145" LastEditDate="2018-03-08T15:44:54.177" LastActivityDate="2018-03-13T20:57:30.680" Title="Extruder motor does not turn" Tags="|extruder|g-code|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5610" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5627" CreationDate="2018-03-08T14:56:52.343" Score="3" ViewCount="132" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am experiencing communication drops when printing from mp raspberryPI (using octoprint, repetitier server). Moreover when printing from Cura (on Windows), the programs freeze (have to kill the window) and sometimes stops the print job.&#xA;I was changing the serial0 speed in Marlin from 225k to 9600 and still no luck.&#xA;Mainboard MKS 1.4 all in one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;please let me know if you need any  more details&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9730" LastActivityDate="2018-03-13T02:34:03.930" Title="Communication is dropping when printing on my Tevo Tarantula" Tags="|marlin|firmware|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5611" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-03-09T13:26:59.363" Score="3" ViewCount="2498" Body="&lt;p&gt;This question is similar:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/156/are-there-biocompatible-materials-available-to-the-general-public&quot;&gt;Are there biocompatible materials available to the general public?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But appears to be for non-implantation use. This question is for materials intended to be implanted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are any typical 3D printed (extrusion based 3D printer) materials, such as ABS or PLA (or slightly more exotic ones, such as kevlar, fibreglass, or carbon fiber), safe for implantation in the human body? Or in medical terms, are they biocompatible (biofunctionality is not topical for this question)? If not, why not? If most of them are safe, then please explain which ones are NOT safe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Highly relevant, and perhaps even more interesting is: Are there any peer reviewed medical papers that have investigated what materials are safe for implantation in the human body? A paper which answers this unambiguously would be the ideal answer to this question. Another concern is if the process of 3D printing itself adversely influences the properties of the material in the context of implantation applications.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've tried to determine the answer to this question myself, but I cannot find any papers or studies which answer it. I can easily find that ABS plastic is &quot;non-biodegradable&quot;, but I suppose the issue of adverse host responses is more crucial, e.g. causing inflammation or it being a bacterial growth substrate to promote infections seems like plausible concerns. I'm sure there might be other dangerous complications too, which I'm not aware of.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found a paper dealing with corrosion issues for implantable metals: DOI: 10.1089/end.1997.11.383&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found a paper dealing with silicone-urethane being prone to breakdown: DOI: 10.1021/ma301965y&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found a paper describing the properties and history of ultra-high molecular weight polyethylene (UHMWPE), which appears to be commonly used as implants: DOI: 10.1109/EEIC.2005.1566331&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By extension, a 3D printer using UHMWPE might be safe, barring any adverse chemical or mechanical issues as a result of the 3D printing process itself. However, it is not clear to me if any 3D printers can actually reliably print UHMWPE. Furthermore, it is unclear if UHMWPE is a sane choice, as it appears to be useful in applications where strength is required, such as for joints. What about other applications where load bearing properties are not required (e.g. a simple enclosure for implantable electronics)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm aware that titanium appears to be frequently used for implants, and while titanium 3D printers do exist, they are beyond the scope of this question. The valid context is extrusion based 3D printers in the sub $10,000 range (arbitrarily chosen to make the question avoid being tagged as &quot;too broad&quot;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10153" LastActivityDate="2018-07-03T11:50:03.893" Title="Are any 3D printed materials biocompatible (safe for implantation in the human body)?" Tags="|filament|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5614" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5615" CreationDate="2018-03-10T19:05:08.900" Score="13" ViewCount="11409" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am designing a fan mount for the CR-10S printer to hold the E3D All-metal v6 HotEnd and BLTouch sensor. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The CR-10S printer has two fans. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One on the front:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/R05Dp.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/R05Dp.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and another one on the right:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iXbHI.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iXbHI.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I need to know what the two fans are actually cooling in order to make a perfect mount. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When powered on, the front fan seems to be on 100 percent of the time. The right fan can only be on via &lt;em&gt;gcode&lt;/em&gt; when printing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I removed the fan mount to study it and it looks like the front fan is cooling the &lt;em&gt;hotend heat sink&lt;/em&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AuguZ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AuguZ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The right fan is attached to the mount and there no hole there to let the air from the fan go through. It seems to be cooling the metal it is bolted to and that doesn't make sense.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Am I correct about the front fan? What's the right fan cooling? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9090" LastEditorUserId="4927" LastEditDate="2018-09-04T10:12:16.807" LastActivityDate="2018-09-07T09:29:48.027" Title="Understand what CR-10S fans are cooling" Tags="|cooling|print-fan|fans|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5615" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5614" CreationDate="2018-03-10T19:35:13.367" Score="17" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The function of the front fan is keeping the cold end well... cold&lt;/strong&gt;. :)  It should be spinning as long as the printer is turned on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The right fan is known as &quot;part fan&quot; and its function is to cool down the plastic that has been just extruded&lt;/strong&gt;, the idea being to solidify it as soon as possible.  As you noticed it is controlled by the gcode and it can be turned on, off and even made spin at any speed in-between still and full throttle.  It normally stops spinning at the end of the print (with some plastic like ABS it may be set not to spin at all even during the print).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you take a closer look at your CR-10, you will see that the receptacle the air is blown into by the part fan has no bottom: that slit is where the air passes through, before being deflected 90° towards the nozzle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the CR-10 the standard deflector for the part fan does not do a good job (the air is not  blown where it should) and replacing it with a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2221647&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;custom part&lt;/a&gt; is one of the most common upgrades performed on the printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally on my CR-10 I used a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2544186&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;custom mount&lt;/a&gt; with an integrated &quot;fang&quot; that blew the air from both sides and worked really well.  It also had the advantage of reusing the hardware from the original assembly (= you don't need to buy anything, just print the part).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9134" LastEditorUserId="9134" LastEditDate="2018-03-11T01:42:00.807" LastActivityDate="2018-03-11T01:42:00.807" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5616" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-03-11T00:32:04.610" Score="5" ViewCount="1061" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just finished assembly of Anet A8 (Prusa i3 clone).  X any Y work fine, both Z motors move down just fine, when homed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On Z-stop trigger, right Z moves up, left Z continues to try to move down.  When up command is given in Pronterface or RepetierHost, right Z moves up, left Z moves down.  Switching cable plugs moves the problem: the down only moves are always on Z-Motor1 output.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have flashed the firmware with original Anet Omni firmware and problem persists.  &lt;strong&gt;How else can I test if the problem is hardware- or firmware- related?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am reluctant to change to different firmware entirely, as I have not yet found out what the problem is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10170" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2018-07-08T11:45:54.030" LastActivityDate="2018-07-08T11:45:54.030" Title="Anet A8 One Z output only moves down (even on up command)" Tags="|z-axis|anet-a8|stepper|motor|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5617" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5616" CreationDate="2018-03-11T02:29:52.683" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;From the data you provided &lt;strong&gt;I would postulate that the problem is likely hardware: either with the the general assembly of the motherboard or with the stepper drivers&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The test you already performed excludes the stepper motors themselves as possible culprits.  Common sense suggests that if such a show-stopper bug was present in the original Anet firmware, thousands of users would report it.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Stepper motors are usually controlled by two signals (two cables): &lt;code&gt;PULSE&lt;/code&gt; and &lt;code&gt;DIR&lt;/code&gt;.  The &lt;code&gt;PULSE&lt;/code&gt; signal controls how many steps the motor needs to perform and the signal itself is normally a PWM or some other form of square wave.  The &lt;code&gt;DIR&lt;/code&gt; signal controls which direction the motor is supposed to spin (clockwise or counter-clockwise), and the signal itself is just a &quot;high/low&quot; voltage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/z3dgW.gif&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/z3dgW.gif&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, electronics is not exactly my cup of tea, but &lt;strong&gt;I would suggest what is happening is that the &lt;code&gt;DIR&lt;/code&gt; signal of the broken output is stuck on either the high or low voltage&lt;/strong&gt; (you can test this easily with a tester).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I am right, &lt;strong&gt;the likely culprit is either a dry joint&lt;/strong&gt; (so a joint that does not let electricity pass and keep the &lt;code&gt;DIR&lt;/code&gt; signal in its low state), &lt;strong&gt;or a short&lt;/strong&gt; (so a place where voltage at &quot;high&quot; level is allowed to get onto the cable carrying the &lt;code&gt;DIR&lt;/code&gt; signal).  These kind of problems are typically related to poor soldering of the connectors, or to bridges between the pins of chips.  You can visually inspect your board for such problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another possible culprit is obviously the driver for the stepper motor itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9134" LastEditorUserId="9134" LastEditDate="2018-03-12T07:24:30.067" LastActivityDate="2018-03-12T07:24:30.067" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5618" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5619" CreationDate="2018-03-11T11:32:40.657" Score="6" ViewCount="1038" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have this &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.tme.eu/en/details/mf50151vx-a99/dc12v-fans/sunon/mf50151vx-b00u-a99/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;fan model&lt;/a&gt;, it is a SUNON model number &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.tme.eu/en/Document/b30ea71fee61d11101012e50df6ac0ad/MF50151VX-A99-DTE.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;MF50151VX-B00U-A99&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;and it is a blower type.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rGueR.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rGueR.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the head is moving in the X-axis it makes noise.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I think this type of fans is not suitable for rapid movement and rapid changes in directions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think the noise is coming from the axial of the fan because I think there is a clearance in the axial for moving up and down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I put my finger on the fan body(the rotating part) the noise stop!  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;My question, What type of fans suitable for rapid movement and rapid direction change? and if this is not the problem what is the problem in my situation?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have tried searching but I can really find a direct answer!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10174" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2022-02-09T15:18:25.953" LastActivityDate="2023-11-29T06:28:33.540" Title="Cooling fan noise when head is moving in the X axis" Tags="|diy-3d-printer|cooling|mechanics|print-fan|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5619" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5618" CreationDate="2018-03-11T17:33:20.010" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;As discussed in the comments...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem with the fan seems to be its flimsy attachment to the printer head.  The fact the fan chassis is not firmly kept in place allows for it to act as a soundboard, amplyfing whatever vibration nomally occurs in the motor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could probably get a fan that is more silent in the first place (&lt;a href=&quot;https://noctua.at/en/products/fan&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;noctua&lt;/a&gt; is a known brand for silent fans, and it is used on the Original Prusa MK3 for example), but since there's nothing inherently wrong with your current fan, I would simply design a custom, more beefy mount for it.  For added dampening effect you could also use small o-rings as washers for the screws.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9134" LastActivityDate="2018-03-11T17:33:20.010" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5621" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6677" CreationDate="2018-03-12T05:31:51.617" Score="6" ViewCount="128" Body="&lt;p&gt;About two days ago, I started seeing that my hotend was heating up erratically. I first noticed this while printing a part in PETG and the temp jumped to 260&amp;nbsp;°C. I shut down the printer at that time and first started checking the hardware. I noticed that the E3D V6 thermistor had been tightened too much. I disassembled the entire hotend, cleaned everything and then reassembled everything. I thought to retune the hotend and when I tried tuning it at 240&amp;nbsp;°C. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is where the strange behavior occurs. The hotend steadily climbed up till about 200&amp;nbsp;°C. After that it just went nuts. I started seeing unreal temps such as 646&amp;nbsp;°C and such. At this point I thought the MEGA might be at fault. I replaced it and the hotend (an E3D V6 clone). This had the screw on glass thermistor. Again the same erratic behavior and unreal temp readings. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What could be wrong here? What am I missing? Can this be the heater cartridge? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5113" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2018-08-16T08:58:33.840" LastActivityDate="2018-08-16T08:58:33.840" Title="RAMPS won't PID tune and shows unreal temps" Tags="|ramps-1.4|hotend|thermistor|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5622" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5402" CreationDate="2018-03-12T08:49:21.137" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;that item is for a bowden setup. (the a8 does not come with a bowden setup, but can be modded to have one.)&#xA;when installing the bowden setup on a a8, the first thing you will need to do is move the motor to somewhere else, there are tons of choices on thingiverse.&#xA;then the PC4-M6 fitting will screw into the black aluminum piece that the throat used to screw into. &#xA;and the other end will go into a customised hot end. again tons of choices&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;now this is oversimplified, because installing a bowden extruder on a anet a8 is a lot more complicated than explained above due to the sheer number of options.&#xA;just search anet a8 bowden and you will have lots of choices.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;but it works as mac said, the PTFE tube slides into self locking fittings, the PC4-M6.&#xA;to release simply push the top of the fitting down and pull out the tube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;source, my own anet a8 modded to have a bowden setup.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10178" LastActivityDate="2018-03-12T08:49:21.137" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5623" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-03-12T14:52:47.610" Score="7" ViewCount="22015" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm about to build a &lt;a href=&quot;https://toms3d.org/2017/02/23/building-cheapest-possible-prusa-i3-mk2/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Prusa i3 dolly&lt;/a&gt;. I am confused whether to use RAMPS 1.4 or 1.5 or 1.6.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the big difference? Is it only the MOSFETs and the poly-fuses? If that is the case, would it be advisable to upgrade a RAMPS 1.4 board (replacing the MOSFETs, connectors, and fuses)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10117" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-07-11T12:07:37.280" LastActivityDate="2018-07-12T07:26:13.773" Title="RAMPS 1.4, 1.5 or 1.6?" Tags="|diy-3d-printer|electronics|ramps-1.4|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5624" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5623" CreationDate="2018-03-12T18:42:32.363" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The biggest issue with RAMPS 1.4 (and 1.5) is the power connector is prone to melting/burning, this appears to be fixed on 1.6 with the use of screw terminal blocks. I've used RAMPS 1.4 with both 12v and 24v power supplies and never have had any issues with the fuses or the power connector but mine have only come from Ultimachine or RepRapDiscount.  A RAMPS 1.4 with power connectors and fuses replaced with those from a reputable dealer (Digikey, Newark, Allied) will likely be fine, you can even remove the power connector and solder the wires directly to the board if you don't need the ability to unplug them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whichever you go with, make sure the screws are tight and never tin the wires going into the power connectors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="233" LastActivityDate="2018-03-12T18:42:32.363" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5625" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5626" CreationDate="2018-03-12T20:47:31.797" Score="4" ViewCount="2453" Body="&lt;p&gt;So like I sayed in the title, Why can't the Anet A6 do .05 layer height? I found that some printers can do .05 layer heights, but the Anet A6 can't? I am interested to know if it is the stepper motors or the threaded rods or something. Maybe this is something I can do a small &quot;test print&quot; on? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8835" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2019-08-31T08:21:54.500" LastActivityDate="2019-08-31T08:21:54.500" Title="Why the Anet A6 can't do .05 layer height" Tags="|anet-a6|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5626" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5625" CreationDate="2018-03-12T22:53:58.750" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not familiar with the Anet A6 specifically, but as many other things in a 3D printer, the minimum layer height is co-determined by a number of factors.  For the Z-axis the factors I am aware of are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The number of steps in the stepper motor&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The geometry of the lead screw&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The tolerance with which the lead screw has been machined&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The microstep settings&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The quality of the stepper drivers&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The amount of play and flexibility of the X-axis gantry&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The ration between filament and nozzle diameter&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The precision of the extruder's stepper motor&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;...&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many printers that claim to have ridiculously low minimum Z-layer height do so by relying on the mathematical model only.  It goes something like this: the lead screw has an offset of 1mm per revolution, the stepper motor makes 200 steps and is set for 32 microsteps per step so the minimum resolution should be...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;1mm / (200 * 32) = 0.0002mm&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reality is however different.  For example: the lead screw may have been machined with a tolerance of 0.002mm, so to make sure a layer has a thickness &gt;0mm its heigh should be &gt;0.004mm (20 times the theoretical limit computed with the microsteps).  But to make sure layers have the same height ±10% you would need to increase the minimum layer heigh of an order of magnitude, bringing it to 0.04mm.  A similar reasoning applies for the amount of play in the gantry, while the ratio between filament and nozzle influences the minimum volume of plastic that can be extruded per step (for very thin layers you want to be able to extrude a minimal amount of it).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the end of the day &lt;strong&gt;this is a typical case of &quot;a chain is only as strong as its weakest link&quot;&lt;/strong&gt;: the minimum layer height of a printer is affected much more dramatically by the limitations of the most imprecise component in the printer than by the performance of its best one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for your question about breaking the printer by issuing g-code with very thin layers: should you issue gcode that requires layers below that limit, the firmware will simply print at the same z-height (see comments, credits to Tom).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm unaware of people having permanently damaged their machines by issuing code with too thin Z-layers.  But given how the firmware operates, I'd expect the quality of the print to be negatively affected, the filament to be possibly chewed by the cobbed wheel and in extreme cases cloggig of the printer head.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9134" LastEditorUserId="9134" LastEditDate="2018-03-13T20:52:52.023" LastActivityDate="2018-03-13T20:52:52.023" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5627" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5610" CreationDate="2018-03-13T02:34:03.930" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As per long article &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/issues/382&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Marlin firmware &lt;/a&gt; it looks like my system is a victim of closed ground loop via USB connection. It is now clear to me that printing from laptop (connected to different socket) was a ground loop separated case and therefore the connection was stable. Connecting my raspberryPi from same socket using long unshielded cable is the main reason of connection drops. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will try to run raspberryPi with short shielded cable and also will test raspberryPi powered from power bank. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9730" LastActivityDate="2018-03-13T02:34:03.930" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5629" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5625" CreationDate="2018-03-13T10:37:37.663" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your question is based on an incorrect premise. Just because the specifications list &quot;minimum layer height: 0.1mm&quot; does not mean the printer is unable to print thinner layers. It just means that the manufacturer is willing to guarantee that printing 0.1mm layers is possible, or that - for whatever reason - the marketing department decided to list 0.1mm in that table. 0.1mm is a nice, round number and seems to be the &quot;gold standard&quot; for 3D printers, but rarely is 0.1mm a limit that is inherent in the printer design.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The theoretical precision of the Z-axis is usually at least an order of magnitude better than the advertised minimum layer height. Of course, the precision of the Z-axis is not the only limiting factor (at a certain point, you need to extrude so slowly that you start to be limited by the resolution of the extruder stepper), but often even impractically thin layers print just fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In many cases, printers are capable of printing layers far thinner than the manufacturers officially advertise. More often than not, minimum layer height is limited by your patience and the fact that doing a print with thinner layer heights takes much longer for a rather limited gain in quality. Just give it a try and try to print 0.05mm layers, and you might be pleasantly surprised by the results!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Note: it is advisable to choose a layer height that is a multiple of the distance for a single (full) step of the Z-stepper. For my printer (which has a very coarse leadscrew on the Z-axis), this is 0.02mm so - for me - it would be better to print with 0.06mm or 0.04mm layers than with 0.05mm layers).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastActivityDate="2018-03-13T10:37:37.663" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5631" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5609" CreationDate="2018-03-13T20:57:30.680" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It turns out the problem was a firmware issue. Using the gcode below (from David Lotts in the comments), I was able to determine that the extruder was running backwards. A flag in the firmware reversed it, solving the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;M82 ;set extruder to absolute mode &#xA;G92 E0 ;zero the extruded length &#xA;G1 F200 E20 ;extrude 20mm of feed stock&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10145" LastActivityDate="2018-03-13T20:57:30.680" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5632" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5633" CreationDate="2018-03-14T20:41:20.770" Score="2" ViewCount="938" Body="&lt;p&gt;I often tried to print sth in the prusa i3-mk3 but in most time he prints at the middle of the object more right or left. Can someone please tell me why that comes?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10026" LastActivityDate="2018-03-14T22:03:17.227" Title="Why does the prusa i3 sometimes put the layer more right or left as they should be?" Tags="|prusa-i3|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5633" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5632" CreationDate="2018-03-14T22:03:17.227" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure if I read your question correctly, but if I do, &lt;strong&gt;what you are referring to is called &quot;layer shifting&quot;&lt;/strong&gt; and looks like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CsHQ3.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CsHQ3.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This happens when the stepper motors fail to perform a step upon receiving the signal from the firmware.  Since stepper motors do not have any way to know their &lt;em&gt;actual&lt;/em&gt; position (differently, for example, than servos) they will keep on printing as if nothing happened, and thus the subsequent layers will be shifted of the amount of steps they missed to perform.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Moving on to why this happens in &lt;code&gt;sth&lt;/code&gt;...  I don't own a MK3, but I take it that &lt;code&gt;sth&lt;/code&gt; is short for &lt;em&gt;stealth mode&lt;/em&gt;, the new silent mode that has been widely showcased in reviews and articles on the printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That mode of operation is made possible by the &lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.trinamic.com/products/integrated-circuits/details/tmc2130/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Trinamic TMC2130&lt;/a&gt; stepper drivers&lt;/strong&gt;.  Normally these drivers monitor the power consumption of the steppers and are capable of deduce a missed step by sudden changes in that.  If they do, the MK3 will actually re-home the X and Y axis to fix the problem and resume printing normally.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However when operating in their &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.trinamic.com/technology/adv-technologies/stealthchop/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;StealthChop mode&lt;/a&gt;, the TMC drivers provide less energy to the motor themselves (to keep them operating quietly) and - more importantly - are unable to detect missed steps.  Less power will make much more likely that any sort of resistance to the print head movement will cause missed steps, the absence of detection will cause the printer to not even notice and cause layer shifting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Again, I don't own a MK3 and I have no direct experience with it, but &lt;strong&gt;I would suggest updating the firmware to the very last version&lt;/strong&gt;: I read in an article some weeks ago that a recent version addressed exactly your problem, by progressively increasing the power output along the Z axis (as the likelihood of layer shifting increases with the height of the print).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9134" LastActivityDate="2018-03-14T22:03:17.227" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5634" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5621" CreationDate="2018-03-15T08:19:45.783" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;This can come from several sources:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Hardware&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The thermistor or its connections might be damaged, and the fault is only observable when the hotend is hot or moved to a certain area. Start by checking the wiring! You may be able to repair a bad connection easily, but depending what was broken, you may need to replace something. In some cases squishing a thermistor cartridge too much can destroy the internals, so a replacement is needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A mainboard failure is more likely to just show a static temperature, and a heater failure would show as maybe not getting past a certain point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Firmware&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it had not worked before or you changed the firmware, the firmware should also be a suspect. The firmware can 'fail' when using the wrong thermistor type/table which can result in a very big offset or bad slope, resulting in wrong or unaccurate readings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4927" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:29:41.667" LastActivityDate="2018-08-16T08:55:42.140" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5635" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4915" CreationDate="2018-03-15T08:30:19.937" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your power supply may not be able to provide enough current. Check it's output voltage, the input at the RAMPS and the supply voltage (both VMOT and VDD) on each driver.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the supply is good, you can suspect the &lt;a href=&quot;http://rigidtalk.com/wiki/index.php?title=Modifying_a_RAMPS_1.4_board#Remove_D1_Diode_and_both_Polyfuses&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;polyfuses&lt;/a&gt; on the RAMPS board. These are yellow rectangles, designed to protect against over-current. They age with stress, and typically fail to pass their full rated current (but you need to understand if there is a fault which damaged them). The &lt;a href=&quot;http://rigidtalk.com/wiki/index.php?title=Modifying_a_RAMPS_1.4_board#Remove_D1_Diode_and_both_Polyfuses&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;link&lt;/a&gt; describes how to remove them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4927" LastActivityDate="2018-03-15T08:30:19.937" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5637" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5734" CreationDate="2018-03-15T21:47:08.043" Score="3" ViewCount="678" Body="&lt;p&gt;We have a Prusa i3 MK2 and we've changed for a print with another colour material but when I pressed &quot;load filament&quot;, it didn't make anything. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Often after five times doing that the printer works. I don't have any pictures but the filament is in the hole and the printer holds it. However, it doesn't push it into the extruder and the remains of the old filament do not come out, so I wonder why the motors just stop and don't work. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sometimes there are no problems - sometimes more and sometimes less. I hope someone has the reason for this problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10026" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-04-18T19:28:51.353" LastActivityDate="2018-04-18T19:28:51.353" Title="Prusa i3 MK2 doesn't accept the printing material" Tags="|extruder|infill|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5638" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5640" CreationDate="2018-03-16T06:42:56.157" Score="2" ViewCount="872" Body="&lt;h3&gt;My problem:&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I need to connect to my 3D printer via the internet from an Android app (using IP address and API key).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My 3D printer is based on Marlin firmware latest and connected to a Raspberry Pi running OctoPi. I don't want to use a router and port forward it, because the Raspberry will be connected to internet via a Wi-Fi hotspot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;My question:&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it possible to control the printer using a cloud platform or a server (another Raspberry Pi) if my OctoPi Raspberry Pi can access the internet? If it is possible, how can one do it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any suggestions or solutions are welcome.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10211" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:29:41.667" LastActivityDate="2018-05-24T13:12:51.677" Title="Connect to 3D printer via internet without router" Tags="|software|printer-building|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5639" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5653" CreationDate="2018-03-16T09:25:15.337" Score="1" ViewCount="1938" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an STL file that I want to add a tribal tattoo to with the end goal of getting it printed in colour sandstone from Shapeways, or in full colour on an Mcor Arke at some point, but I'm not really sure where to go. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've looked at Microsoft Paint 3D. It's ok, but I cannot get the paint job symmetric. It outputs the .3mf format which the Arke will eventually handle with their Orange software, but it won't export into anything Shapeways will accept.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've looked at UV unwrapping in Blender, but it seems I have to create the image in another graphics program and then import it... but I can't really work out where the images will be applied to the object, and then when I'm done it seems I cannot export the bits I'm expecting. On the plus side I have the mirror function so I can just paint one side and it's symmetrical.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've looked briefly at Maya and 3Ds Max, but they are eyewateringly expensive, way out of my league.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Blender with some form of layers for the image might be really useful so I can make the tattoo in bits and then apply them to parts. I've kind of seen how you can split the model into panels but my brain is struggling to get round this as it's really quite hit and miss... and exporting seems to be a problem, although DAE and the texture will go to Shapeways, assuming the DAE has the texture layout embedded. FBX seems to go into Paint 3D and then I can export it to 3MF for the Arke.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has anyone got any helping pointers for this confused noob?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10214" LastActivityDate="2018-03-19T09:51:43.463" Title="Painting an STL file" Tags="|3d-design|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5640" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5638" CreationDate="2018-03-16T09:42:02.190" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a few solutions, but each one needs to match same criteria: an open network socket visible outside the local network.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So from TCP/IP protocol theory, we don't even need to have an IP address to send a packet to another computer as we can use layer One which is just the MAC address to identify the receiver. But things become more complicated when we have to provide a link to two separate endpoints.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basic requirements:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;We need to know &lt;em&gt;public accessible&lt;/em&gt; IP address and port that server is exposed (listening) on&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;We can have a DNS entry that will be translated to public IP, but that assume that public IP is same all the time (or we have a dynDNS service)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Solutions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Have the RPi exposed with public IP address and routed properly; &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Create a VPN bridge from RPi to your home/cloud network and connect Android to the same VPN;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do a port forwarding to RPi from public IP and expose that in the firewall.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So at this point, if you don't have admin access to network devices then only solution '2' is viable, IMHO.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9730" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-05-24T13:12:51.677" LastActivityDate="2018-05-24T13:12:51.677" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5641" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5668" CreationDate="2018-03-17T08:28:28.860" Score="8" ViewCount="6869" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought a new printer, and unfortunately the left nut for the lead screw isn't tapped.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know the thread size, w.r.t. both pitch and lead, of the lead screws?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10068" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2019-08-31T08:27:29.333" LastActivityDate="2020-11-08T00:23:59.717" Title="Does anyone know the thread size (pitch and lead) of the Anet A8's lead screw?" Tags="|prusa-i3|z-axis|hardware|lead-screw|anet-a8|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5642" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5641" CreationDate="2018-03-17T09:30:15.080" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't own the printer, but the &lt;a href=&quot;https://m.aliexpress.com/item/32827343801.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;intertubes&lt;/a&gt; identify it as a &quot;TR8X8 T&quot; (8mm diameter / 8mm offset per revolution).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9134" LastActivityDate="2018-03-17T09:30:15.080" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5644" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3742" CreationDate="2018-03-17T17:50:11.177" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a link I found that analyzes your G-code ( filament usage, time, etc.): &lt;a href=&quot;http://gcode.ws/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;gCodeViewer&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the description (emphasis is mine):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Analyze GCode&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Print time, &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;amount of plastic used&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;, layer height, etc. for whole file and for single layer&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a screenshot:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pDsuL.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Screenshot&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pDsuL.png&quot; alt=&quot;Screenshot&quot; title=&quot;Screenshot&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10227" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2019-08-12T11:30:17.517" LastActivityDate="2019-08-12T11:30:17.517" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5645" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-03-17T19:43:35.993" Score="5" ViewCount="286" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am attempting to print the Benchy boat but every attempt so far has been unsuccessful. The print has a sort of slope/blob on the nose of the boat, which emerges after the first 30 layers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vx2cM.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vx2cM.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;defect&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here you can see the front of the boat already arching up:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/q9Z6A.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/q9Z6A.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;defect 2&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have tried decreasing speed to 40 mm/s but the issue remains.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Printer&lt;/strong&gt;: Geetech Prusa I3 Pro B&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;XY Accelleration: 1000 mm/s&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;XY Jerk: 20 mm/s&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Retraction Accelleration: 2000 mm/s&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Extruder Jerk: 5 mm/s&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Printing Speed: 50 mm/s&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Travel Speed: 120 mm/s&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Layer Height: 0.1 mm&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Infill: 60% (Lines)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Material: PLA, 200 °C, 1.75mm filament, retraction enabled.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10229" LastEditorUserId="10229" LastEditDate="2018-03-18T11:34:29.670" LastActivityDate="2018-03-22T02:36:18.060" Title="What setting is this defect caused by?" Tags="|prusa-i3|extrusion|speed|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5646" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5647" CreationDate="2018-03-17T20:57:46.850" Score="4" ViewCount="4743" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an &lt;code&gt;NEMA 17&lt;/code&gt; stepper motor &lt;code&gt;17HS4401&lt;/code&gt; and a RAMPS 1.4 driver unit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The motor pinouts are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;RED   A+&#xA;BLUE  A-&#xA;GREEN B+&#xA;BLACK B-&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;while the RAMPS board has the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;2B 2A 1A 1B&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could someone point me in the right direction? How can I connect the driver to the motor? I have a feeling I already messed things up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10230" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-03-30T06:53:59.693" LastActivityDate="2020-03-30T06:53:59.693" Title="How to connect a NEMA 17 stepper to RAMPS 1.4?" Tags="|ramps-1.4|stepper|wiring|nema-17|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5647" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5646" CreationDate="2018-03-17T21:37:32.103" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are very many combinations that will work. A bipolar stepper has 2 coils. Swapping the coils, or reversing the polarity of a coil, will simply cause the stepper to rotate in the opposite direction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On RAMPS, one coil should connect to 1A and 1B, whereas the other coil should connect to 2A and 2B.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the stepper, one coil is A+ and A-, the other coil is B+ and B-.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A possible wiring is A+ to 1A, A- to 1B and B+ to 2A and B- to 2B, but there are 15 other possibilities. The only &quot;wrong&quot; way is one that connects a coil of the stepper to two different coil outputs on the RAMPS (so connecting, for instance, A+ to 1A and A- to 2A wouldn't work).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastActivityDate="2018-03-17T21:37:32.103" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5649" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5651" CreationDate="2018-03-18T21:41:31.840" Score="5" ViewCount="1467" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just finish building a Graber i3 printer from mixed parts (a MDF clone of Prusa i3 MK2). For the hotend, I've bought the Greetech MK8 extruder. However, the temperature sensor is driving me up the wall.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've already checked the wires and connections, but the darn thing keeps showing a steady 500 degrees Celsius. In Marlin, it shows it right up (I'm using the 1st option for a 100k thermistor), in Repetier Firmware (using the same one), it shows 0.00°C, until I tell the printer to heat up, when it shoots to 500°C just like before with Marlin. The documentation for this extruder only lists it as a &quot;100K NTC Thermistor&quot;, so I tried to select one of the NTC options on the list for both Marlin and Repetier and the temp sensor reads steady 3.600°C!!!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Measuring it with the multimeter, it shows around 60k, it's 31°C outside.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it broken or am I selecting the wrong thermistor type?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.geeetech.com/assembled-mk8-extruder-p-857.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Documentation for MK8&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10235" LastEditorUserId="4922" LastEditDate="2018-03-19T22:07:04.183" LastActivityDate="2019-02-11T15:06:33.103" Title="MK8 extruder showing 500+ °C on temperature sensor?" Tags="|prusa-i3|extruder|thermistor|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5650" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5645" CreationDate="2018-03-18T22:22:44.380" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The lines along the length of the boat also appear to be wobbling, can you confirm this? Have you used this material before? The layers should look straight and equal.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PvV5g.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PvV5g.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have 2 candidates:&#xA;If the lines indeed wobble it may be over extrusion. The excess material pushing the extruded line over the edge. (check the diameter of the filament with a caliper and adjust the extrusion rate if needed)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or it can be shrinking. 60% infill is quite high. You could try 20 or 30% (less material and more air =&gt; less distortion), or adjusting cooling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope it helps, good luck!  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4406" LastActivityDate="2018-03-18T22:22:44.380" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5651" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5649" CreationDate="2018-03-18T22:38:48.627" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;A brand new thermistor shows about 95-105k ohm (depends on the multimeter quality), so it looks like that one is out of the range.&#xA;To be sure that it is a thermistor, you could connect a 100k potentiometer, play with it and see readings on the lcd. If the readings are OK, then mainboard is good so replace the thermistor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://arduino.stackexchange.com/a/36420/26303&quot;&gt;A 100k thermistor curve&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9730" LastActivityDate="2018-03-18T22:38:48.627" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5653" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5639" CreationDate="2018-03-19T09:51:43.463" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is indeed more related to the &lt;a href=&quot;https://blender.stackexchange.com&quot;&gt;blender forum &lt;/a&gt; than the 3d printing one. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can start by looking at &lt;a href=&quot;https://blender.stackexchange.com/questions/65853/can-i-paint-on-my-objects&quot;&gt;this post&lt;/a&gt; from blender.stackexchange.com which explain how to unwrap and paint on a 3d object. You can also paint the texture on a 2d software like &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.gimp.org/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Gimp&lt;/a&gt; and then put it in the UV Image editor of Blender. Then you should be able to export your project (with the texture) in a suitable format for 3d print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8082" LastActivityDate="2018-03-19T09:51:43.463" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5660" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5661" CreationDate="2018-03-21T11:40:05.433" Score="3" ViewCount="5864" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am building a &lt;a href=&quot;https://andypi.co.uk/2017/09/17/dolly-build-notes-prusa-i3-mk2-clone-3d-printer/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;dolly&lt;/a&gt; and I am confused as to which proximity sensor to use. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I go for M8 or M12 and 5&amp;nbsp;V or 6-36&amp;nbsp;V? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What should be the best detecting distance? Should it be 2/4/8&amp;nbsp;mm. Which one should I select?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10117" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2018-07-08T20:46:42.030" LastActivityDate="2019-04-04T00:34:34.000" Title="Which proximity sensor to use?" Tags="|prusa-i3|diy-3d-printer|z-axis|z-probe|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5661" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5660" CreationDate="2018-03-21T11:52:07.983" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Tomas Sanladerer has produced a nice video on this topic: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=il9bNWn66BY&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=il9bNWn66BY&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;@ 7:31 you see an overview of the precision of various sensors, including the ones you mention. It appears that the M12-4 and M18-8 sensors are more accurate than the M8-8.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2018-03-21T11:52:07.983" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5662" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5445" CreationDate="2018-03-21T12:18:12.780" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, there is a &quot;select&quot; tool in the toolbar next to &quot;make&quot;. You can use select filters to select components, bodies and faces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2018-03-21T12:18:12.780" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5663" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5483" CreationDate="2018-03-21T12:28:41.037" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Why don't you download one of the many casings that are found on Thingiverse that house the Anet electronics board and take measurements from those cases.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I measured it from my own casing I designed a while ago:&#xA;Hole distances are 86.3 mm and 91.3 mm (center to center)&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gvxzu.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gvxzu.png&quot; alt=&quot;Anet Board Dimensions&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-04-25T08:34:20.160" LastActivityDate="2019-04-25T08:34:20.160" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5664" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-03-21T13:07:52.767" Score="3" ViewCount="1660" Body="&lt;p&gt;I re-read my question and realized I made a confusing one, so I am rewording a LOT.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the software I use is Craftware. When it comes to the first layer I have it set to .25mm, with the following layers being whatever I specify otherwise. And because of this there shouldn't be a difference with the first layer even though I choose different layer heights based on the project. But for some reason it is not the case. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When printing .2mm layer height everything works great. The print adheres amazing, the nozzle is at a really good height. Everything simply works. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When printing .1mm the first layer does not stick. A lot less plastic is coming out the nozzle. And it is a disaster. Have tried increasing the amount of flow a bit, but didn't help (I might need to raise it a lot more)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I don't understand what is going wrong. The first layer is supposed to be set at .25mm no matter what the layer height is otherwise. What do I need to do or look at? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8835" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2019-08-31T08:23:16.003" LastActivityDate="2019-08-31T08:23:16.003" Title="1st layer problems with .1 layer height" Tags="|layer-height|anet-a6|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5665" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5664" CreationDate="2018-03-21T14:25:12.970" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You have asked several questions here.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;why is first layer set to 0.25&quot; -- check the gcode file, opening it in a text editor, to see what layer values are specified.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;looks like under-extrude&quot; -- please show a picture.  If it's purely that the print failing to adhere, you may need to adjust the Z-zero point slightly. Or perhaps When you printed at 0.2mm, for whatever reason the transverse stress on the base layer is less than when printing at 0.1 mm (e.g., linear speed adjustments needed).&lt;br&gt;&#xA; Is the second layer somehow not adhering to the first layer?  It is possible that the linear speed setting for the first layer is too high and that should be adjusted.  Or perhaps the z-height for the second layer is inconsistent with a 0.1mm layer setting, so check the gcode there too. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In general, adherence problems can be dealt with by adding a raft or brim. See if that suffices.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2191" LastActivityDate="2018-03-21T14:25:12.970" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5666" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5667" CreationDate="2018-03-21T14:30:39.123" Score="6" ViewCount="794" Body="&lt;p&gt;Harking back to the days of &quot;singing disk drives,&quot; I am wondering if anyone's written music to be performed on a 3D printer. Most of us have noticed in passing that the servo motors for X and Y drive generate a different pitch depending on motion speed. With some care and experimentation, one could write g-code to produce not only a tone but even a 2-tone chord.  So -- has this been done? Does anyone want to do so? (Note that there's no need to simultaneously produce a print, but that would be even classier).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2191" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2020-10-04T15:57:10.920" LastActivityDate="2020-10-04T15:57:10.920" Title="Music from the printer?" Tags="|g-code|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5667" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5666" CreationDate="2018-03-21T16:34:21.787" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, it has been done before, see &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/forflo/gCodeMusic&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/yeokm1/midi-to-simple-metal-gcode&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;here.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The README file of the first repository linked above contains a detailed explanation of the basic idea/calculations involved.  A short excerpt:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;As you can set the parameters of G1 in such a way as to precisely control the velocity and the distance of a movement along a certain axis, you can control the operation frequency of the stepper motors as well as the actual time to complete a movement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On another note (pun intended), you can also play music by using the code &lt;a href=&quot;http://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#M300:_Play_beep_sound&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;code&gt;M300&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9134" LastActivityDate="2018-03-21T16:34:21.787" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5668" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5641" CreationDate="2018-03-21T19:35:47.740" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have the Anet A8, I confirm the threads are Tr8x8(p2). This is explained as &quot;Tr&quot; for trapezoidal thread followed by the nominal diameter in mm. The digits after the &quot;x&quot; denotes the lead of the screw (how much does the nut advance per revolution). The value between the brackets &quot;p2&quot; denotes the pitch. This means that the screw has 8 (lead) / 2 (pitch) = 4 starts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More information on threads is found &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Trapezoidal_thread_form&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;on Wikipedia&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-05-27T19:18:08.943" LastActivityDate="2019-05-27T19:18:08.943" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5669" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5672" CreationDate="2018-03-21T23:50:50.940" Score="6" ViewCount="439" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm new at 3D Printing. I made a model of what I want to print using blender, but it's really small with a little system that must be very precise to work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I have is like a hollow cylinder with a diameter of 11mm, and a thickness of 1mm. This goes inside a counter part, that is carve with the cylinder shape, but with a little extra gap so it can rotate like an axis. Maybe this picture explains better:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/trZRu.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/trZRu.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And this should be the front view of the counter part:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XaNBg.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XaNBg.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, I need to know if it's possible to print that cylinder hard enough to work as an axis. And what should be the gap size between the cylinder and the counter part's hole to rotate properly? If it's is like 0.05mm, can I print that level of detail with a 3D printer too?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What hardware and material should I use to do this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks in advance.&#xA;Sorry for bad english, I hope you understand!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uD2N1.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uD2N1.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(6mm is the depth of the hole)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10272" LastEditorUserId="10272" LastEditDate="2018-03-22T03:33:21.180" LastActivityDate="2018-03-22T07:31:19.053" Title="Is possible print this level of detail?" Tags="|print-quality|print-material|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5670" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5669" CreationDate="2018-03-22T01:23:00.927" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is considered good practice to limit your post to one question at a time. The question about hardware and material is too broad to be a good question and I will set that aside.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Equally unfortunate, your drawing is ambiguous. I suppose if English is not your native language, I'm not helping things either.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The drawing has some errors that make it challenging to be certain of a correct answer, but I can provide you with some useful information as a direct result of a test print created today.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The test print for my printer creates a series of spool shapes within retainer shapes. More complex than a simply cylinder making the test that much more difficult.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My printer is able to print without problem parts that are 1.0 mm apart, 0.8 mm apart and 0.6 mm apart. The test failed at the 0.4 mm spacing and the 0.3 mm spacing, telling me that I need to perform some tuning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your question asks about 0.05 mm spacing. I think you will not find an FDM  printer that will manage such separation without bonding together the individual components. FDM printers use filament.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may also not find that an SLA or DLP printer can provide such tight tolerances. It is the most likely source of a success, however. I have only minimal exposure to tolerance in this type of printer. SLA/DLP printers use lasers/light and liquid resin. They can accomplish 0.05 mm layer thickness, even as small as 0.025 mm layers, but I do not know the figures for horizontal precision/accuracy/tolerance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;SLS printers use a nylon powder and a laser to fuse the powder together to form the model. My SLS printer uses 0.050 mm powder. To accomplish the separation you require would mean a single layer of powder will separate the individual segments of the model. This is not practical for this type of printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your best bet would be to consult with a 3D printing service that uses SLA printers. SLA is likely to be more precise than DLP due to the method of exposing the resin, although that is not a universal truth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastActivityDate="2018-03-22T01:23:00.927" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5671" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5645" CreationDate="2018-03-22T02:36:18.060" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Looks like curling from to much being extruded and no cooling I had the same problem added part cooling and problem was gone &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10273" LastActivityDate="2018-03-22T02:36:18.060" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5672" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5669" CreationDate="2018-03-22T04:35:11.393" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is definitively possible to do what you want, but your questions are samewhat problematic:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;So, I need to know if it's possible to print that cylinder hard enough to work as an axis.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;hard enough&quot; is a mysterious quantity.  What is the intended application? The load of the axis, the rotation speed, the medium in which the part will be in, its operating temperature... they all affect the answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;And what should be the gap size between the cylinder and the counter part's hole to rotate properly?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Reading at the question and the comments, I think you may have the wrong representation model in your mind.  There are four different concepts at work here:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;Accuracy&lt;/em&gt; is the maximum dimensional variation between parts. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;Tolerance&lt;/em&gt; is the amount of random deviation or variation permitted for a given dimension.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;Allowance&lt;/em&gt; is a planned difference between a nominal or reference value and an exact value.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;Clearance&lt;/em&gt; is the intentional space between two parts.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So: what you want to achieve for the object to rotate is to have at least some &lt;em&gt;clearance&lt;/em&gt; once you have the parts printed.  Therefore, you want to design your part with an &lt;em&gt;allowance&lt;/em&gt; which is at least as much as the &lt;em&gt;accuracy&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that a machine cannot produce parts with a tighter tolerance than its accuracy.  So you must design your part with a &lt;em&gt;tolerance&lt;/em&gt; equal or greater than your printer &lt;em&gt;accuracy&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The correct number will therefore be entirely dependant from the specific printer you will be using.  You can find out the specific &lt;em&gt;accuracy&lt;/em&gt; of a printer by printing a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/search?q=Tolerance%20test&amp;amp;sa=&amp;amp;dwh=815ab32c4d0733c&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;tolerance test&lt;/a&gt; (I know, I know... why isn't it called &quot;accuracy test&quot;?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See this &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/5187/9134&quot;&gt;unrelated answer&lt;/a&gt; - from wich I took the above definitions - for learning more about the above and a concrete example.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If it's is like 0.05mm, can I print that level of detail with a 3D printer too?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope it is now clear why this question makes no sense: &lt;em&gt;clearance&lt;/em&gt; is a variable which depends  from &lt;em&gt;accuracy&lt;/em&gt; (and the application), not the other way around.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I can't add so much gap because I have really limited space&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This comment too is incorrect: the &quot;gap&quot; (clearance) can be very very small.  You have to have the correct &lt;em&gt;allowance&lt;/em&gt; in your design, and allowance will &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; intrinsically make a part larger.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;What hardware and material should I use to do this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Again: this is entirely dependent from your application (load, operating temperature, orientation, speed...)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A consumer-grade FDM printer (easy accessible, cheap and cheap to operate) will allow you to print a rotating part, a SLA/DLP printer (less common, toxic resins, more expensive to operate) will allow to print the same part with different materials and tighter tolerances...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I don't worry about breaking, but it cannot be flexible&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Again: without an explanaton of the intended use (or the numbers associated to it) it's impossible to answer this comment conclusively.  Resins tend to harden to more rigid solids, but you have thrown around tolerances as small as 0.05mm in your writing, and over 12mm of axis, that is a deviation of less than 0.5% from &quot;perfectly straight&quot;.  I'm hard pressed to think you will find a printable material with such a rigidity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9134" LastEditorUserId="9134" LastEditDate="2018-03-22T07:31:19.053" LastActivityDate="2018-03-22T07:31:19.053" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5673" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-03-22T18:06:39.537" Score="6" ViewCount="2095" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've built and done some simple tests on a TEVO Tarantula but I've noticed some pretty dramatic under extrusions. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My equipment:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;TEVO Tarantula;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Jim Brown's easy config fork of Marlin;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Titan extruder (came with printer).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've updated the firmware with the 400 steps as advised and calibrated the extrusion with the 100&amp;nbsp;mm method:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When I run the calibration with the Titan extruder, &lt;em&gt;only&lt;/em&gt; the 400 steps is fine and works as expected;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When I connect the Bowden tube to the hotend and calibrate (at 200, 225 and 250°C), I see only ~50&amp;nbsp;mm of extrusion. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've disassemble the hot end, changed filament and I can't see any signs of blockage. The Bowden tube in the hotend is not showing any signs of melting etc. and it is pushed all the way down to the hotend, as per the instructions. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, what's going with this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10278" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-03-25T12:19:14.543" LastActivityDate="2018-03-25T12:19:14.543" Title="TEVO Tarantula under extrusion" Tags="|calibration|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5674" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6212" CreationDate="2018-03-23T01:26:52.520" Score="8" ViewCount="373" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there any commonly printed plastic which I can buy that might be transparent to UV light? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wish to print a mould, then pour in my plastic which requires a UV light to activate the curing process. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10281" LastEditorUserId="4927" LastEditDate="2018-09-04T08:18:42.703" LastActivityDate="2018-09-04T08:18:42.703" Title="Transparent Plastic" Tags="|print-material|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5675" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5673" CreationDate="2018-03-23T07:33:17.657" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Summarizing for correct understanding: you measured 100 mm without the hotend heated and attached and about 50mm attached and at temperature but not hearing any clicks using a pretty long Bowden tube?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bowden setups require a little more torque to push the filament all the way to the hotend. I've experienced this with my own 2.85 mm setup when I converted a 1.75 mm &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2758025&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;BullDog extruder&lt;/a&gt; to accept 2.85 mm filament. Your problem is most probably caused by filament not being gripped by the extruder gear and causing slipping on the filament (this does not necessarily mean that you hear clicking!). The Titan is a geared extruder so you should get more torque than a direct setup; this is exactly why you don't hear clicking, the gear turns but does not move the filament. Please inspect your filament after the extruder by removing the Bowden tube; ideally this should show you a regular pattern of the extruder gear. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What you can do to prevent this is to put more pressure on the filament by adjusting the pressure of the spring. In my setup I use some screws to get the spring out of the equation and clamp it directly only tightening the screws by hand (when switching filament I need to unscrew these). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should also PID tune your hotend to be sure that the heater is optimally tuned to keep the hotend at a certain temperature level.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-03-23T09:18:42.263" LastActivityDate="2018-03-23T09:18:42.263" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5676" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5679" CreationDate="2018-03-23T09:54:50.250" Score="4" ViewCount="2309" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to upgrade my Anet A8's motherboard (the stock one is broken anyway, see: &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/5097/anet-a8-reading-739c-from-the-extruder-thermistor&quot;&gt;Anet A8 reading 739&amp;#176;C from the extruder thermistor!&lt;/a&gt;) to the RAMPS 1.4, without having to get a new LCD/microSD module. I am thinking of getting both a smart adapter and sdramps, then maybe plug the sdramps and the stock Anet A8 LCD into the smart adapter, but I am not sure whether the sdramps module has a different pinout than the RAMPS smart controller, which is what the smart adapter is made for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can someone confirm whether they have the same pinouts or not, or give me some alternatives to my idea?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7362" LastActivityDate="2018-10-21T14:31:54.950" Title="Plug sdramps module and Anet A8 LCD together into RAMPS smart adapter" Tags="|ramps-1.4|anet-a8|wiring|microsd|sd|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5678" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5674" CreationDate="2018-03-23T12:45:21.247" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is more of a Chemistry question, but seeing as we love 3D printing with exotics, here are a few.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://topas.com/uv-transmission?gclid=Cj0KCQjwy9LVBRDOARIsAGqoVnuAAAiwiHetZN76JqaRFnq7KKy6br9e6MLDQA4Zlrt01Ceh8GfQrzIaAu7xEALw_wcB&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Topas&lt;/a&gt; olefin copolymer&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the mfr description page,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;TOPAS cyclic olefin copolymer, or COC, is an incredibly pure polymer -&#xA;in fact, it's purer than most grades of medical glass. Unlike glass,&#xA;it has a non-ionic, inert surface to minimize reactivity,&#xA;denaturation, agglomeration, delamination and other traditional glass&#xA;concerns. And when it comes to maintaining purity, TOPAS medical grade&#xA;plastics can be sterilized via all common methods. Leachables and&#xA;extractables are extremely low. Reduce risk and increase performance&#xA;by maintaining the benign, protective environment that TOPAS COC-based&#xA;devices provide.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Medical grades of TOPAS COC are extremely clear, and are optically&#xA;suitable for replacing glass in many applications.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure of its melting point, or of the speed of solidification (which affects extruder rate, motion etc).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Recommended at &lt;a href=&quot;https://chemistry.stackexchange.com/questions/63912/uv-transparent-plastic&quot;&gt;this Chem.SE question&lt;/a&gt;, PMMA and others&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;edit&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because answers there have links of their own, I&amp;quot;m not repeating the various technical leads available there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now you will have to investigate their melting points and flow rates, etc. to see if these can be coerced to function in an extrusion printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2191" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:29:41.667" LastActivityDate="2018-06-22T12:35:07.647" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5679" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5676" CreationDate="2018-03-23T12:47:17.563" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Anet A8 uses a simple LCD with 5 buttons, the problem is that the buttons do not use digital pin signals, instead analog pins are used. Based on the pressed button, with corresponding resistance the firmware knows which button is pressed. The RAMPS smart adapter uses digital pins, so &lt;strong&gt;the Anet LCD is not compatible with the smart adapter&lt;/strong&gt;, you may wan't to opt for a cheap Chinese 12864 LCD smart controller, they are about $8, they are compatible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The topic &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6030/connecting-anet-a8-2004-display-to-mks-gen-l&quot;&gt;Connecting (Anet A8) 2004 display to MKS GEN L&lt;/a&gt; shows you to hook up the Anet A8 LCD to a RAMPS board. You &lt;strong&gt;do not use the smart adapter&lt;/strong&gt;, instead &lt;strong&gt;you use AUX2&lt;/strong&gt;. You only have to change 2 wires (interchange them on AUX2) and you will be able to use the display. The reason you cannot use the smart adapter is that the 5 button display requires analog pins, which are not available on the smart adapter, but are available on the AUX2 header.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-10-21T13:42:48.533" LastActivityDate="2018-10-21T13:42:48.533" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5680" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5660" CreationDate="2018-03-24T08:54:56.233" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As always cost will be a factor.  I found the M4 sensors to be be just not good enough, they have to be too close, and eventually it's going to catch on your print and damage sensor mounting and/or the hot-end assembly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The 8mm range sensors seem like a good distance, but you'll need to decide between a wider, heavier but cheaper model or the think, lighter more expensive model.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your goal is to optimise for speed, go the lighter version.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In terms of sensing accuracy, if your layer height is typically 0.2mm then I don't think there's much point paying for more accuracy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6878" LastActivityDate="2018-03-24T08:54:56.233" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5681" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5673" CreationDate="2018-03-24T09:48:40.240" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I did a test on 50cm ptf tube, and according to result I had to increase steps/mm to 440.&#xA;Thet tube have a straight connection between extruder and hotend.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Please verify that there is no bends on the the ptf tube as that is huge obstacle to push for extruder &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you have a short piece of ptf tube - please calibrate and compare results, &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Validate electrical connections as a very little loose can lead to missed steps&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Put a marks on the plastic gear on titan and observe if there is a smooth movement during extrusion &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Put a marks on the filament in about 5mm and observe how it is consumed &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Very that filament is easily provided from spool, and spool rotates freely &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do a test on prepared piece of filament to validate previous &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There is a thing on tingverse that is cleaning filament and oiling it to decrease the inner tube tension, or just put some drops kitchen oil on the filament and in the tube &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Replace stepper motor with one of the axis as there ale all same shiped with tarantula &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Increase hotend temperature by 5,10, or more &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Add more tension on the extruder regulator&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think I exhausted my check list, as I was struggling a lot with my tarantula, and found it very brittle to use. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9730" LastActivityDate="2018-03-24T09:48:40.240" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5682" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="978" CreationDate="2018-03-24T11:20:29.940" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Electrical engineer here.  There is nothing odd about putting a PCB in an oven.  Any surface mount PCB is assembled using a &lt;strong&gt;reflow oven&lt;/strong&gt; which heats all the components, as well as the PCB itself, several degrees for quite some time up to the 'soak' temperature, which is &lt;strong&gt;150 °C&lt;/strong&gt;.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After that, the PCB (and components, still not soldered but held down with solder paste) are heated up to the reflow temperature, which for lead-free processes (i.e., all of them) is &lt;strong&gt;245 °C.&lt;/strong&gt;  After this point, they are held at that temperature for 60-90 seconds to allow the solder to completely reflow.  Note, this is not time spent with the oven temperature that hot - this is time the entire PCB, which edge to edge has reached 245 °C, spends at that temperature.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;There is absolutely nothing wrong with, nor anything odd about putting a PCB in an oven or otherwise getting it hotter than it's glass transition temperature.  Doing so is a key part of their commercial assembly into electronics and has already been done to every PCB you own.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please ignore the 'accepted' answer - it's incorrect. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PCBs are usually made out of glass epoxy composite (FR4) with a glass transition temperature of 140°C.  There are high heat varieties with a glass transition temperature of 170°C.  I do not know which variety the Prusa MK2/MK2S uses specifically, but FR4 doesn't have a 'sharp' glass transition anyway, so you want to err on the side of hot regardless of the specific type.  Get it nice and cozy at at 190-200 °C, and increase the temperature until it unwarps.   The solder's liquidus is about 220°C, so you should try to keep 20 °C shy of this just because kitchen oven thermostats are not to be trusted. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I own a MK2S, and have personally heated my heat bed up to above the glass transition temperature of PEI (don't ask) which is &lt;strong&gt;217°C&lt;/strong&gt;, and this was not a problem (well, except for the PEI but again, don't ask).  It didn't suffer any ill effects, nor did I expect it too.  I'm printing on it right now, as I type this.  It's perfectly fine to heat it up that hot.  That was the entire reason FR laminate was even made - to be rigid and to tolerate being hot.  Solder ain't gonna melt itself.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note, however, you will need to remove the PEI/Ultem sheet as well as the adhesive before you do this.  Prusa has instructions on how, look under replacing the PEI print surface.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, as for the actual procedure, the pcb isn't going to magically just become flat.  You have to force it to flatness. Flatten it into submission. It will only be as flat as the hopefully flat surface it is resting on.  And, given the gradual transition of the material, it isn't going to exactly become super pliable even when a good deal past its glass transition temperature.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What you ideally want is two plates of aluminum large enough to sandwich it between. Or steel, or any metal.  They need to be thick enough to not flex so they are very flat.  A pizza stone, if you can find one that is flat, or a slab of granite also works.  I know none of these are exactly 'just laying around the house' type objects, but really any flat surface that will tolerate the heat that you can rest the pcb on is acceptable.  (Kids - ask your parents first)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only problem is it will likely not unwarp itself under its own weight.  You'll need to put a large flat thing on top of it too, and either have it be heavy, or add heavy things on top of your large flat thing.  You want to make a heat bed sandwich.  Also, it needs to be shielded from the oven heating elements (be they electric or gas), as these will radiate heat a lot hotter than the oven temperature when they turn on.  Don't worry - aluminum foil is enough to shield anything from the heat, but again, you should have something very flat and substantial on top.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Oh, and remove the screw hole sockets from the PCB.  They just need a hex key and some pliers to unscrew.  Don't lose the lock washers.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway, the above procedure, while definitely a pain, will restore (or if it was always warped, imbue for the first time) flatness as good as the flat things it is sandwiched between.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The flatness of kings.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This isn't exactly unknown either.  &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IQ3D83cBnPE&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;People do it&lt;/a&gt;.  It works.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10295" LastEditorUserId="10295" LastEditDate="2018-03-24T11:28:13.957" LastActivityDate="2018-03-24T11:28:13.957" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5684" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-03-24T12:45:34.063" Score="4" ViewCount="1882" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to print with PLA on a new Wanhao Duplicator i3 Mini. In regular temperature settings (200-210°C) the printer underextrudes and the extruder motor skips, which led me to suspect low nozzle temperature. Increasing the temperature to 225°C indeed allows the printer to print normally without any problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What can be the cause for this? Is it a faulty temperature reading? What is the way to fix it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10298" LastEditorUserId="9134" LastEditDate="2018-03-24T15:31:26.807" LastActivityDate="2020-11-24T18:30:15.990" Title="Temperature offset on Wanhao Duplicator i3 Mini" Tags="|pla|extrusion|wanhao|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5685" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5684" CreationDate="2018-03-24T15:31:01.893" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's very difficult to diagnose 3D printers without physical access to the machine, but here's a few possibilities that come to mind (several of those may contribute together to the problem).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;The temperature reading is poorly calibrated or defective&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This means that the actual temperature is lower than what displayed.  You can verify this hypothesis by using an IR thermometer or replacing the probe (on some printers the heat probe on the bed is the same than the one on the hot end, so you don't need to buy a new part).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;The batch/brand of filament you have has a higher melting point than expected&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So: the filament is supposed needs to be extruded at 225°C, but the label (or simply your assumption from having used other spools of filament) says otherwise.  Just use that temperature and be happy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;The teeth of the extruder gear are worn&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Within limits, the hotter the molten plastic is, the runnier.  This means that at 225°C it will be less viscous than at 210°C and will strain the extruder motor less.  If the gear of your extruder has worn teeth that won't &quot;bite&quot; deep enough into the filament, they will eventually slip when reaching a certain torque.  The teeth of an extruder wheel should feel well defined under your fingers, if you are in doubt about them not being sharp enough, then they probably aren't, as the feeling is quite distinctive.  Replacement gears can be purchased online very cheaply.  &lt;strong&gt;EDIT&lt;/strong&gt;: re-reading your question I realised you wrote that the motor &lt;em&gt;skips&lt;/em&gt;, so this and the following point may not be the case for you, even if sometimes - but not always - slippage makes a similar noise to skipping.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;The spring of the extruder gear is weak&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See above, but here the root cause of the slippage is the extruder gear not being pushed hard enough into the filament.  This is caused by the extruder spring being too weak.  Most printers have some mechanism to regulate the tension of the spring.  A DIY method is that of adding a stack of washers (or a custom printed cylinder) at one end of the spring in order to &quot;pre-tension&quot; it.  Otherwise again: spring replacements are extremely cheap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Your part fan is blowing on the nozzle&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The temperature probe measures temperature at some place in the heat block, not the nozzle.  If your part fan is blowing too high, the flow of air may be cooling down the nozzle, instead of the extruder part.  You most definitively want to avoid this by repositioning the fan or printing a custom fan deflector (the latter is a classic among mods).  This is an easy-to-diagnose problem as most slicers allow you to turn the part fan off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9134" LastEditorUserId="9134" LastEditDate="2018-03-24T15:41:24.893" LastActivityDate="2018-03-24T15:41:24.893" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5686" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-03-24T18:32:22.860" Score="5" ViewCount="6600" Body="&lt;p&gt;Whenever it start printing the extruder starts clicking, I tried adjusting the voltage with no luck, it's still clicking. And it doesn't extrude a lot of plastic sometimes it even stops extruding but the extruder is still turning. Can someone help?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10303" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2018-07-08T12:04:45.707" LastActivityDate="2018-12-31T18:04:48.300" Title="Extruder clicking Tronxy x5s" Tags="|extruder|tronxy-x5|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5687" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5686" CreationDate="2018-03-24T20:19:37.487" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;The clicking you are hearing is either the stepper motor skipping steps or the hobbed gear losing grip on the filament.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Either way, it means that the filament opposes an unusually high resistence to be pushed forward.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A key information to be able to diagnose your problem is whether the clicking is on the firsts couple of layers or throughout the print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;If it is only for the first 1-3 layers the problem is likely to be the printing bed too high&lt;/strong&gt; (or deformed), so that the nozzle touches it and the bed acts a &quot;lid&quot; on the nozzle preventing the molten plastic to get out.  If this is the case, adjust the printing bed to be flat and level (and the nozzle at the right height when homed on the Z axis.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;If the problem persists throughout the full print&lt;/strong&gt; the problem is likely to be related to one of the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;the extruder not managing to get a firm grip&lt;/strong&gt; on the filament (worn teeth, slack spring, ...)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;the stepper motor being underpowered&lt;/strong&gt; (this seems not to be your case, given that you have already adjusted the voltage)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;a clog, adhesion, or restriction in either the bowden tube or the extruder&lt;/strong&gt;, for which the best solution is disassemble, inspect and clean (eventually changing the bowden tube if it has been deformed).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9134" LastEditorUserId="9134" LastEditDate="2018-03-25T15:40:02.870" LastActivityDate="2018-03-25T15:40:02.870" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5688" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3185" CreationDate="2018-03-25T12:55:22.057" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;One trap I've seen that causes the extruder to click, and over or underextrude is that the extruder control is in the wrong mode.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The extruder can be set into relative or absolute mode. If absolute extrusion values are sent while in relative mode, then the system will be trying to push more through than the nozzle or hot end can handle. You'll get blobs, clicking, ooze and it will damage the extruder and hot end.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Have a look at the G-code - and see what the &quot;E&quot; numbers look like - it they look relative (the same or close numbers repeatedly) or absolute (numbers slowly incrementing). Cura defaults to absolute - but initially was NOT sending the G-code to put my controller into absolute extruder positioning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note also - this is separate from the XYZ absolute/relative positioning modes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;code&gt;M82&lt;/code&gt; will put the extruder in absolute mode.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;code&gt;M83&lt;/code&gt; will put it back into relative mode.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10308" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-02-25T22:07:56.007" LastActivityDate="2019-02-25T22:07:56.007" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5689" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-03-26T03:12:24.313" Score="5" ViewCount="2469" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's my first time printing in vase mode, and I noticed my printer underextruding badly. The settings have not been changed from default vase mode settings in slicer, and earlier I was printing non-vase mode and the prints came out fine. Layer height is 0.2&amp;nbsp;mm and perimeter width is 0.3&amp;nbsp;mm. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rXiKt.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Under extrusion #1&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rXiKt.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Under extrusion #1&quot; title=&quot;Under extrusion #1&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KCy5X.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Under extrusion #2&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KCy5X.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Under extrusion #2&quot; title=&quot;Under extrusion #2&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7355" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-06-03T20:00:59.027" LastActivityDate="2018-06-05T08:44:31.200" Title="Weird underextrusion in vase mode?" Tags="|pla|print-quality|g-code|slic3r|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5690" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5689" CreationDate="2018-03-26T07:10:35.270" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Finding the cause of under-extrusion is very hard as a lot of parameters of the print process can influence this. There are some nice websites that describe these problems in detail. From your question it is unclear what you have done to solve the problem, or if you have printed products after the vase mode and shown us a picture of that (this eliminates a lot of possible problems). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A nice overview is given by &lt;a href=&quot;https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/21477-how-to-fix-under-extrusion&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Ultimaker&lt;/a&gt;, but other sources may help you to find the root cause, e.g. &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Simplify3D&lt;/a&gt;. If the issue is related to the filament and hot-end, &lt;a href=&quot;https://printrbot.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/articles/202100554-Unclogging-the-Hot-End-Using-the-Cold-Pull-Method&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Printrbot&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.trideus.be/en/blogs/stories/tips-tricks-do-the-cold-pull&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Trideus&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;https://rigid.ink/blogs/news/under-extrusion-problems-or-clicking-sounds-heres-why-and-how-to-fix-it&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Rigid.ink&lt;/a&gt; may help you solve the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Important is to isolate your problem! Not knowing what printer you have, your printer has (or potentially has) the folowing modules/elements that may be causing the underextrusion:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the slicer (highly suspicious),&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the material/filament and the spool holder (suspicious),&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the extruder or feeder (suspicious),&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the hot-end (suspicious),&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the Bowden tube (suspicious if you have one).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that to find the root cause you should tackle this by elimination, this way you make sure that certain modules are not causing the problem. Also keep in mind that the vase mode prints a single outline/perimeter shell and won't make any retracts (so the Z axis will continuously rise), in which defects are shown instantly. Please, take a close look at your normal multi perimeter print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;How to fix under extrusion!&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Under extrusion is probably one of the hardest to find the direct cause as there are so many variables to consider. Please find below some of the variables that can affect your printing quality marked in bold face.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Material and material settings&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;The material you use needs to be resembled correctly, so it is important and easiest thing to check first if your print is suffering from under-extrusion due to incorrect material settings. The material settings in your slicer (or the material profile on your printer for the more fancy printers) should match the material you are printing. So please check the &lt;strong&gt;filament diameter&lt;/strong&gt; with a caliper and measure the diameter at various points; take the mean diameter of at least 3 to 5 measurements. Furthermore, &lt;strong&gt;temperature&lt;/strong&gt; is also an important factor; &lt;strong&gt;too low temperatures&lt;/strong&gt; will cause that the extruder has to push harder as the material is less viscous due to the fact it is not heated properly. Note that this can also happen if the flow of the filament is too high and the heater cannot keep up. It is these high pressures that cause the under extrusion as it may not flow fluidly. In contrast to too low temperatures, &lt;strong&gt;too high temperatures&lt;/strong&gt;, can also cause problems. Very high temperatures can change the structure of the material, this is often referred to as carbonization causing &lt;strong&gt;deposits&lt;/strong&gt; (clogs) in the nozzle. A word of advice, &lt;em&gt;Please check your filament spool/box (or sometimes a paper in the box or bag) for the proper temperatures&lt;/em&gt;.&#xA;&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Next to the temperature, other important material settings are the &lt;strong&gt;print speed&lt;/strong&gt;, the &lt;strong&gt;layer height&lt;/strong&gt; and the &lt;strong&gt;nozzle size&lt;/strong&gt; as these properties further define the rate at which the &lt;strong&gt;filament volume&lt;/strong&gt; is deposited. For instance, a &lt;strong&gt;too high of a volume flow&lt;/strong&gt; not only can lead to the previously mentioned cooling of the nozzle, but also is limited by the diameter of the nozzle, you just cannot push more through the nozzle is capable of as the friction will increase (the smallest opening in the system determines the maximum rate of volume flow). If you do, this will lead to under-extrusion. To &lt;strong&gt;find the optimum between speed and temperature&lt;/strong&gt;, a good balance between these needs to be found. A typical way to do that is by the use of printing calibration temperature towers, preferably at various speeds. To print faster, you need a higher temperature, but printing at lower temperatures because of overhangs, you might need to decrease the speed to get a proper extrusion (and maybe also part cooling).&#xA;&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Don't just focus on the hot end part, also take a closer look at the filament spool itself, or better, how the spool unrolls. Is the &lt;strong&gt;spool of filament unrolling correctly/freely&lt;/strong&gt; without a lot of friction (does it make &lt;strong&gt;sharp bends&lt;/strong&gt;, or does it go &lt;strong&gt;through a tube&lt;/strong&gt; having friction from its container to the extruder), or is the &lt;strong&gt;filament not correctly wound causing tangled filament&lt;/strong&gt; (which create a lot of friction preventing enough material to be transported to the hot end) which could stress the extruder.&#xA;&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;For some materials that are hydrophilic (they attract water and trap it in the filament, this happens e.g. with PLA, PVA, Nylon and maybe even more) printing the &lt;strong&gt;filament with contained water, the water will turn into steam causing bubbles&lt;/strong&gt; in the deposited filament and interfere with the flow deposition. This effect sometimes makes a distinct sound like popping bubbles. Always store your filament in a sealed container or bag and use desiccants bags. Moisture can cause damage to the printer as the &lt;strong&gt;filament swells when taking up moisture&lt;/strong&gt;; this could lead to various jams. Last but not least, filament with moisture in it has less mechanical properties after printing than dry filament (up to 33% less).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The extruder/feeder and Bowden tube&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;The extruder/feeder pushes or feeds material into the hot end, or into a tube (called Bowden tube). Under-extrusion caused by the extruder is typically characterized by the fact that filament is not properly fed to the hot end as a result of &lt;strong&gt;too much friction in the tube or hot end&lt;/strong&gt;, &lt;strong&gt;too less grip on the filament&lt;/strong&gt; or &lt;strong&gt;filament grinding&lt;/strong&gt; (the extruder gear 'eating away' the filament). &lt;strong&gt;Too much friction could even cause your stepper to tick or click&lt;/strong&gt;, basically turning back as the pressure on the filament exerts so much pressure that the stepper is rotated back; &lt;strong&gt;increasing the feeder tension&lt;/strong&gt; on the filament (by &lt;strong&gt;adjusting the screw on the extruder/feeder&lt;/strong&gt; would fix that). Grinding is easily spotted when removing the filament; it will clearly show that the gear has worn away circle shapes. Furthermore, &lt;strong&gt;filament taken out of the printer should show visible marks on the material&lt;/strong&gt; as imprints of the extruder gear, &lt;strong&gt;if completely smooth, the feeder tension is too less&lt;/strong&gt;. On the other hand, &lt;strong&gt;too much tension on the feeder could flatten the filament, which leads the previously mentioned grinding effect&lt;/strong&gt;. If you encounter grinding, please assure that you &lt;strong&gt;clean the extruder by removing the filament powder and chunks&lt;/strong&gt; the grinding produced and recheck the extruder/feeder tension before continuing printing again. Be sure that the &lt;strong&gt;grinding particles have not entered the Bowden tube as it causes friction&lt;/strong&gt;. Cleaning them regularly or replacing them once a year is advisable depending on the usage (or once every x kilometers of filament). Furthermore, &lt;strong&gt;larger diameter filament (2.85 or 3 mm) can cause additional friction (in the Bowden tube or the extruder/feeder) as towards the end of the spool&lt;/strong&gt;, the filament is wound tight along a small diameter spool center causing strongly bend filament that exerts pressure as it acts like a spring creating friction at the walls of the tubes.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The hot-end&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;The hot end can also be a culprit for under-extrusion. &lt;strong&gt;Partial blockage of the nozzle as a result of carbonization&lt;/strong&gt; (buildup of carbon or carbonized material in the nozzle). Even &lt;strong&gt;left over material from previous prints inside the nozzle&lt;/strong&gt; (&lt;em&gt;unflushed residue&lt;/em&gt;) may change the volume of the nozzle when the material you printed before needed a higher temperature than the current you're printing. Also try to get &lt;strong&gt;good quality filament&lt;/strong&gt;, it might be that the &lt;strong&gt;quality is just not constant for the whole spool&lt;/strong&gt;. Too clean the inside of the nozzle, a few techniques exist to remove blockage. By &lt;strong&gt;performing a &quot;cold pull&quot; or using the &lt;code&gt;atomic method&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;. Both techniques rely on the mechanism to insert the (cleaning) filament when it's hot and remove it quickly at a lower temperature. E.g. see &lt;a href=&quot;https://printrbot.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/articles/202100554-Unclogging-the-Hot-End-Using-the-Cold-Pull-Method&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;https://rigid.ink/blogs/news/under-extrusion-problems-or-clicking-sounds-heres-why-and-how-to-fix-it&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-06-04T06:56:17.053" LastActivityDate="2018-06-04T06:56:17.053" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5692" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="978" CreationDate="2018-03-26T10:43:55.217" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Easiest way would be to place a glass sheet on top of the bed and run a calibration... Although, that way you may lose a few millimeters of print height.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10316" LastActivityDate="2018-03-26T10:43:55.217" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5693" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="91" CreationDate="2018-03-26T11:58:11.037" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;At work, I put a 3d ABS part printed via 3d hubs (5*20*30), in the chamber at 1 mbar. No signs of breakage what so ever. No signs of sudden leaks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Going anywhere below 1mbar, i.e., to 10^-infinity mbar, I think should theoretically still not cause any breakage or sudden leaks, as the expected mechanism of failure depends on the pressure difference; i.e., [1atm-1mbar] ~=[1atm-10^-infinity mbar].&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Based on the above I have made some more parts to be put in a chamber at 1E-5 mbar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10154" LastEditorUserId="10154" LastEditDate="2018-08-08T05:11:39.497" LastActivityDate="2018-08-08T05:11:39.497" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5694" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5689" CreationDate="2018-03-26T14:06:15.210" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You are printing walls of 0.3 mm with a 0.4 mm nozzle (25% contraction). This might fall in the category of insufficient volume flow. The wall width is less than the nozzle diameter, so it needs to contract. Either way, the volume is too less and may be dragged along until it is flattened. You should increase the wall width, maybe even a little more than 0.4 mm (although that might not be necessary, see edit below).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To support this, the next table shows the volume calculation for the filament (based on extruded cilinder shape), the first row is the volume you need to fill the 0.2 mm layer height (0.025 cubic mm), the second is what you extrude with a 0.3 mm width for a 0.2 mm layer (0.014 cubic mm). From this latter value you can calculate the layer height for a 0.4 mm diameter nozzle to be about 0.11 mm, clearly not filling the gap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RwO6J.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RwO6J.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit:&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;To further support this, please read &lt;a href=&quot;https://engineerdog.com/2015/09/02/mechanical-testing-3d-printed-parts-results-and-recommendations/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; test.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The extrusion width versus strength show the optimum strength when the nozzle extrusion width equals the nozzle size.&#xA;&lt;br&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1CR2F.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1CR2F.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-06-05T08:44:31.200" LastActivityDate="2018-06-05T08:44:31.200" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5695" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5707" CreationDate="2018-03-26T16:06:20.553" Score="3" ViewCount="3155" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://photos.app.goo.gl/O6yPf3sDeV1yhS0C2&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://photos.app.goo.gl/O6yPf3sDeV1yhS0C2&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried to illustrate my problem in the videos above, two of them show the weird movement and the other shows me clicking on the home button repeatedly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some Info:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Marlin 1.1.8 or 2.0.0 (same problem in both)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Robotdyn RAMPS 1.4&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;0.9 angle stepper motors&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;DRV8825 drivers configured at 0.8V Vref&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Anet A2 Plus stock for all the rest&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9874" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-01-15T15:50:46.133" LastActivityDate="2019-01-15T15:50:46.133" Title="Weird Movement and not homing" Tags="|marlin|ramps-1.4|motor|stepper-driver|homing|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5696" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5695" CreationDate="2018-03-26T16:26:07.737" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;As far as I can see on the attached videos your homing movement is reversed.&#xA;as per Marlin, the homing for X shall move towards the left side and for Y to the back of the printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That could occur when: cable connectors to stepper motors are reversed, or the motor is assembled the other way (you can set reverse direction in Marlin)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other issue is steps/mm calibration need to be done see source below.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The high pitch in the video could also point that the drv8825 is shutting down the movement as it is overloaded.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;please also check that for vref&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Configuring Vref In order to measure Vref you first need to turn on&#xA;  your printer as you normally would. If you only connecct using USB,&#xA;  but not external power, you get a wrong reading.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;You need to turn on your multimeter and set it at 2v. Put the red one&#xA;  on the potentiometer and the Black one on the Gnd pin. Both are marked&#xA;  on the images here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Before starting this I read they come with a very high vref setting,&#xA;  and it is recommended to start around 0.5v Vref. After measuring mine,&#xA;  I can confirm they come with a very high initial setting. Mine both&#xA;  came at 1,65v or so! - Yours might be different, which just underlines&#xA;  the importance of doing this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Contrary to normal potentiometer usage, the ones on most copies/clones&#xA;  of DRV8825 are lowered by turning clock-wise, so that is what we will&#xA;  do, to we hit 0,5v on each. - A quarter of a full turn lowered it to&#xA;  0,7v, - after that it goes very, very rapidly down, so aim for the&#xA;  quarter of a turn + a tiny tad more. If you buy your DRV8825 directly&#xA;  from pololu.com the Potentiometer are dialed up by turning it&#xA;  clock-wise:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.instructables.com/id/Installing-and-Configuring-DRV8825-Stepper-Drivers/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;source&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9730" LastActivityDate="2018-03-26T16:26:07.737" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5697" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-03-26T17:30:32.503" Score="5" ViewCount="660" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking for suggestions for 3D design software which support designing multi-material parts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I will be printing on a multi-extruder machine based on RepRap firmware.  The printer will handle the files when given a proper g-code file.  Slic3r will produce a proper g-code file given the right input.  STL seems to be single-material, so I am looking for something like AMF files, or any alternative.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is, what is available for 3D design software which will produce a geometry file which slic3r (or some other slicing software) will properly process?  I'm not asking for opinions on which software is best.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I believe this is my first question in any StackExchange forum, so if I have trespassed on community standards, it was not my intention.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2082" LastActivityDate="2020-01-23T01:47:26.997" Title="Which 3D design softwares make multi-material amf or other design files that slic3r will slice?" Tags="|3d-design|slicing|multi-material|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5698" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5697" CreationDate="2018-03-26T20:49:42.717" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You do not necessarily need a specific design tool, you can use any tool you want to create your multiple material product. It is the slicer software that manages the materials by assigning the correct extruder. E.g. Cura is able to join 2 STL files that fit together and assign each part a specific extruder and thus material. Please read more &lt;a href=&quot;https://ultimaker.com/en/blog/34012-get-started-with-cura-printing-with-two-colors&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here for instructions&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2018-03-26T20:49:42.717" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5699" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-03-26T21:10:09.050" Score="1" ViewCount="112" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm thinking about building a Cray-2 inspired cluster. I'm concerned about the exterior housing modules, proportions and panels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has anyone done a good 3D scan of one?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10319" LastEditorUserId="10319" LastEditDate="2018-04-19T11:13:05.213" LastActivityDate="2018-04-19T11:13:05.213" Title="Is there any public and reasonably accurate 3D scan from a Cray-2 computer?" Tags="|3d-models|3d-design|scanning|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2018-03-28T22:13:34.110" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5700" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1404" CreationDate="2018-03-27T04:51:09.620" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Be aware that zip-lock bags may not be perfectly air-tight or probably humidity-tight - but much better than nothing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a food vacuum bagger, and have vacuum-sealed zipper type bags and placed them in the refrigerator, where they do not maintain their tight fit, i.e. air is seeping in. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I haven't done a study, but bags tagged for the freezer should be better, I know they are thicker. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;America's Test Kitchen&quot; tried various bags, and liked the Ziploc brand double-zipper freezer bags.  To my amazement, a spool of filament &quot;just&quot; fits a gallon bag (YAY!). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can get true food-vacuum bags large enough for a spool for long-term storage, this is the best way.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was pleased to learn what I SHOULD have known, namely that UV can be a factor -- and until right now had been storing my filament inside an east window that gets sun.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Calcium chloride is an excellent desiccant - often sold as a &quot;closet dehumidifier&quot;, or in cold climates, as a very inexpensive by-the-bag ice melting &quot;salt&quot; (check the ingredients). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In absorbing moisture, the CaCl&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt; puddles, and is harmful such as to leather, so be sure you empty the liquid and refresh the crystals occasionally. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A US$7 humidity gauge may be purchased (Amazon, eBay, etc) and placed in a container with filament and desiccant to see how it is doing.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;/Ward C, inventor of Xmodem &amp;amp; BBSs&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10324" LastActivityDate="2018-03-27T04:51:09.620" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5702" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5637" CreationDate="2018-03-27T09:14:38.087" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;First make sure that the hotend is hot enough.&#xA;Second you need to check your extruder if it is clean.&#xA;Third try to push the filament by hand and look if it comes out. If yes than the problem should be in the motor.&#xA;The motor connection wire could be loose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9771" LastActivityDate="2018-03-27T09:14:38.087" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5705" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5699" CreationDate="2018-03-27T15:18:00.267" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;LMGTFY, etc. etc.   Depends on the amount of detail you want.  A cheap starter: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:26671&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;, or &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1246709&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2610764&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;irrational fruit&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2191" LastActivityDate="2018-03-27T15:18:00.267" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5706" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5715" CreationDate="2018-03-27T15:30:40.190" Score="7" ViewCount="1187" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have this clogging problem on my 3D printer that I am having a really hard time to solve. I am a hobbiest so in no way am I a professional with regards to 3D printers. I also know that this is a popular issue and I have tried a lot of the proposed solutions (going through a lot of PLA filament and failed prints) to no avail. I will try to describe the problem and what I have tried to solve it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First the issue:&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OremM.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OremM.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Removed hortend to show the clog&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This shows how the filament clogs. The next image shows the assembled printer head for reference.: &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AhioD.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AhioD.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Assembled printer head&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is how the print looks when it fails:&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZcvdG.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZcvdG.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Failed print&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have tried the following:&#xA;- Adjusting the temperate between 190 up to 220 for the PLA filament. Everything trying a print with it.&#xA;- Doing a thorough cleaning of the nozzle (Acetone soak, wire brush, guitar string etc.)&#xA;- Checking the Teflon pipe inside the tube if it is clear and ensuring that the edges allow the filament to pass through.&#xA;- Check if the cooling fans work well to ensure cooling of the whole assembly (they work, they aren't jammed etc.)&#xA;- Dissambling the printer head and putting it back together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have printed with the printer before without a problem. I printed PETG a few times to get that working and the results were decent. When I returned to PLA this issue started and no matter what I change on the profile it won't work. I have tried adjusting feedrate, flow rate, retraction amount and speed, temperature, fan speeds to name but a few things.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a Cura profile I can upload if that will help. Any advise would be much appreciated. I have been struggling with this for a while now and really need some options.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10333" LastActivityDate="2018-03-29T19:27:37.253" Title="Filament clogging just above feeding tube - Duplicator 6" Tags="|pla|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5707" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5695" CreationDate="2018-03-27T17:04:56.440" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The problem was the logic of the endstops that were reversed&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9874" LastActivityDate="2018-03-27T17:04:56.440" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5708" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5086" CreationDate="2018-03-27T20:30:27.997" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, it can.  I have configured it for as many as four extruders.  The problem may be in the slicing, as the slicer is responsible for generating the tool change commands.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One problem with the Repetier multi-extruder support is that, although the temperature of each extruder is reported by the RepRap firmware response, only the selected extruder is updated, and only one extruder is shown in the temperature graph.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2082" LastActivityDate="2018-03-27T20:30:27.997" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5709" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5103" CreationDate="2018-03-27T20:53:47.550" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Were I to build a frame now, I might use 1&quot; square steel tubing members, welded together.  You could also use aluminum, but for the same cross-section, the steel will be stronger.  It is also easier to weld.  If welding is not available, you are limited to shapes which can be bolted together.  This is not impossible, but it requires more thoughtful design.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the guides for moving or sliding elements, stainless steel drill rod is good.  Because it is round, it doesn't constrain rotating motion, so you might need two drill rods, spaced as far apart as your design allows.  The twisting force will be harder to manage with rods than it would be with a solid element.  If the parts are moving during printing, you could consider stainless steel tube or aluminum rod to keep down the weight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have the machining ability, instead of rods you could use a T cross-section (&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.onlinemetals.com/merchant.cfm?id=1803&amp;amp;step=2&amp;amp;top_cat=1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;steel&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.onlinemetals.com/merchant.cfm?pid=12974&amp;amp;step=4&amp;amp;showunits=inches&amp;amp;id=235&amp;amp;top_cat=60&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;aluminum&lt;/a&gt;) with wheels rolling on the two outside elements of the T.  Machine is likely needed to adjust the profile of the edge to more closely match the wheels (which could be /V\ shaped), and to make the separation be accurate enough that you wouldn't need a spring element to clamp to the T.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are many materials and forms that could work.  You are limited only by your fabrication ability and access to materials.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2082" LastActivityDate="2018-03-27T20:53:47.550" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5710" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-03-27T21:08:41.993" Score="7" ViewCount="3633" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been searching around on google and not found any answers to this dilemma. I am using a Prusa I3 printer with PLA, trying to print horseshoes for the company I work for. They are for model horses, so quality is fairly important. I seem to have gotten all the settings dialed in just the way I want them and for the most part, the prints come out fine. There is however one annoying thing that keeps happening. When the filament is going around the curve of the top of the horseshoe on layers beyond the first, the filament does not follow the curves of the first layer. But its not every time. It seems like it is just the 2nd or 3rd Layers that are doing it. I have adjusted the flow rate, the speed, the layer height, temperature, and nothing seems to get rid of this irksome issues. I can of course provide more in depth details, and am including a pic of what i am getting. Any Ideas?&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vr1tx.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vr1tx.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10337" LastActivityDate="2018-07-30T15:42:37.863" Title="Prusa i3 PLA fails to stick to first layer on curves" Tags="|prusa-i3|pla|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5712" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4602" CreationDate="2018-03-27T21:48:35.473" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are using Repetier the code to test the endstops is m119 I think. If your z stop is triggered, you may have to invert it in the config.h file. I had this same issue for days before i figured out the control board was reading the switch as normal close instead of normal open. Hope that helps!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10337" LastEditorUserId="233" LastEditDate="2018-03-28T12:13:28.730" LastActivityDate="2018-03-28T12:13:28.730" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5713" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5710" CreationDate="2018-03-27T23:28:35.627" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It could very well be that your print speed is too high (starting from the 2nd layer) for the motors to keep up comfortably. Try reducing the print speed to perhaps 75-80% of what you are using to see if it addresses the issue. You should also check you model to make sure there are errors in the STL. Sometimes such mesh errors can cause funny things to happen. Do you see the irregularities in the print preview at all?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10340" LastActivityDate="2018-03-27T23:28:35.627" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5714" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4602" CreationDate="2018-03-27T23:36:16.370" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Try sending a motion command manually, such as G1 X20 Z10, to eliminate any bugginess from the software interface as a reason for the Z not moving properly when commanded to. Next you could check the park location in Pronterface, perhaps the extruder head is sitting there waiting for the next command.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10340" LastActivityDate="2018-03-27T23:36:16.370" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5715" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5706" CreationDate="2018-03-27T23:44:24.297" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sometimes the filament quality itself could be the culprit. Have you tried printing with a different spool of PLA?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10340" LastActivityDate="2018-03-27T23:44:24.297" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5716" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5664" CreationDate="2018-03-28T00:41:25.370" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You likely need to re-calibrate the Z-height of your nozzle. The reason that a lot less plastic is coming out of the nozzle at 0.1mm is that the actual gap is likely smaller than 0.1mm. This makes the print bed act essentially like a partial &quot;lid&quot; on the nozzle which occludes the outflow of molten plastic. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Simplify3D has information on their website regarding the issue which can be found here: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/#not-extruding-at-start-of-print&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/#not-extruding-at-start-of-print&lt;/a&gt;. Hope this helps!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10340" LastActivityDate="2018-03-28T00:41:25.370" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5717" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5664" CreationDate="2018-03-28T08:51:13.213" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Assuming you are using a 0.4mm nozzle, 0.1 layers are very close to the edge of what you can do. As @PR90 said, a Z adjustment will probably help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My process for this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you have a heated bed, preheat before levelling.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;set a large brim on the print, slow-ish first level (about 40mm/s)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;start with the bed levelled normally, and start the print&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;wait for plastic to be extruding, then adjust the bed until it starts bonding&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This does require adjusting the bed with the print in progress, so make sure you are safe and don't get your fingers in anything hot or otherwise dangerous.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10331" LastActivityDate="2018-03-28T08:51:13.213" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5718" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5710" CreationDate="2018-03-28T10:15:27.343" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is that printed on to tape? It looks &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; uneven. I'm guessing this is general bad adhesion and its just showing up best when going around curves.&#xA;If you print onto tape, try putting it down with a squeegee, so it's absolutely flat and level with no creases or bubbles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've personally had very little luck printing onto masking tape.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10331" LastActivityDate="2018-03-28T10:15:27.343" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5719" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-03-28T12:13:05.263" Score="5" ViewCount="7519" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am quite new to 3D printing, and having difficulty printing  first layer of an object with support. The object has a few curved surfaces that touch the print bed, so not a big starting foot print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I  am printing on a genuine Prusa i3 mk2s, using PLA, 210&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C (clean from what I can tell) nozzle, 60&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C (clean, good condition) heat bed. My model is an STL from Thingiverse, and I sliced it with Prusa Control. Settings: 0.3&amp;nbsp;mm layers, 30&amp;nbsp;% infill, Support from build plate, brim on. I have run the printer calibration, z-axis calibration, etc. Only thing that might be a bit out is my z-axis might be a &lt;em&gt;fraction&lt;/em&gt; too low. I have no issues when printing objects without support, and usually don't have issues printing objects with support (although typically these have a larger contact area of the object to the print bed as well)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After it prints the brim (which adheres well), it tries to print the support layers for the &quot;actual&quot; layers that will get printed first. These layers do not touch the outer brim. They go down with a little bit of &quot;squeeze out&quot; when the printer does a 180-degree turn. (this can be seen on the right hand end of first picture).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then, it attempts to print the whole-of-base support structure (refer to pic 3 and 4 for details). Where these support layers touch the outer brim, they adhere well. When they touch the initial support layer sections, it tears them up, leaving a big mess.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What appears to me to be happening, is the small sections that get printed first (circled in red) are either not adhering well enough, or somehow getting &quot;ruffled up&quot;, or are printed too close to the subsequent, broader strokes of the rest of the support layer, such that when the rest of the support layer is printed, it is tearing up the initial small sections. Having 2 densities of support layer per layer seems to be causing issues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Failed print, still on the bed. At the right, there is a section of &quot;fine&quot; support material that sort of survived.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NKa4E.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NKa4E.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;failed first layer&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Close up of the failed first layer. The broad strokes seem to adhere well except for when they meet where the fine layer was - after that it's just a big mess.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rEmXD.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rEmXD.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;failed first layer close up&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Slicing in Prusa control (part 1): shows the different support structures and very minimal contact of actual object to the bed (orange) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RMFL5.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RMFL5.png&quot; alt=&quot;prusa control first layer 1&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Close up of other problem area in PC slicing. No actual contact of object to bed here. Also, as a side note, why the funny diagonal line cutting through the rest of the support structure here?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4belv.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4belv.png&quot; alt=&quot;Prusa control first layer 2&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6736" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-02-05T21:35:15.487" LastActivityDate="2019-02-05T21:35:15.487" Title="Support material first layer adhesion issues" Tags="|prusa-i3|adhesion|support-structures|support-material|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5720" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3786" CreationDate="2018-03-28T15:26:18.553" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I was using BuildTac on a Monoprice Select Mini, I had to print with a hot bed (50 C or so) and then wait until it was cooled before attempting to remove the parts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I used &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B073TRYH1G&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;a set of very thin removal tools&lt;/a&gt; and a lot of patience to remove my parts. I would be careful to push only parallel to the BuildTac with one of the sharper tools. Once I was under the part, I could usually slide the tool under the part like a knife to separate the part from the BuildTac.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was only using BuildTac on that machine because I damaged it's original yellow surface when I removed my first Benchy from that machine. Since then the BuildTac has lasted for months.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9512" LastActivityDate="2018-03-28T15:26:18.553" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5721" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4692" CreationDate="2018-03-28T17:41:38.797" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does Cura have options for avoiding perimeters during moves? And does it have an option to step up the z axis during non print moves? These were the two issues I was having with the nozzle dragging through the previous layers on my prints. I set the z axis to move up 0.2&amp;nbsp;mm during non print moves and to avoid Perimeters during non print moves (using Slic3r) which eliminated this issue for me almost entirely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10337" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-10-08T08:19:36.793" LastActivityDate="2018-10-08T08:19:36.793" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5722" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5719" CreationDate="2018-03-28T18:59:13.193" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is hard to determine the exact source of the problem as there are few possibilities (I am assuming that you have a single nozzle and only one filament in use):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;One of the hardest issues for me to get on my printer was fact that my auto-level sensor was mounted about 0.5mm too high - so please check that as this will give you a bit higher Z than expected.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Printing speed matters  - for some prints I was slowing my printer to 20% of nominal speed to get adhesion&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;a hair-spray layer or a masking tape on the bed could help with getting the grip&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;also you could play with nozzle temperature de/increasing by 5 degrees and see how it is going&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9730" LastEditorUserId="9134" LastEditDate="2018-03-28T20:28:33.963" LastActivityDate="2018-03-28T20:28:33.963" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5723" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5719" CreationDate="2018-03-29T00:11:56.320" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Increase the extrusion width for the first layer. This will ensure that more plastic is extruded and will help with adhesion tremendously. Check our this link for more information: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/#print-not-sticking-to-the-bed&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/#print-not-sticking-to-the-bed&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The prusa i3 mk2s provides an option to &quot;live adjust&quot; the Z height during a print. You can try raising/lowering your nozzle with this feature to see which way it will adhere better, and then reset the Z to that value once you are satisfied with the adhesion and quality.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10340" LastActivityDate="2018-03-29T00:11:56.320" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5724" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6184" CreationDate="2018-03-29T14:10:50.857" Score="8" ViewCount="8806" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an Anet A8 printer for about 4 months, set up pretty well (or so I thought) and printing a number of models pretty well. I made a large 3&quot; x 6&quot; box with a sliding lid yesterday and when it was done there was a gap on one side when the lid was slid on. I checked the parts and it turns out they are not square - which means the X and Y axes are not square to each other.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm wondering how to adjust this - I'm thinking that extending the distance between the back of the frame and the front by adjusting the threaded rods that separate them to a wider distance on the side where the angle is obtuse. Obviously one of the first things I'll check is that the distance between the front and back is the same (I can't imagine why I never checked that before, come to think of it).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does this sound like a sound plan?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10351" LastActivityDate="2018-06-16T14:35:02.093" Title="Anet A8 - X and Y axis not square - how to fix?" Tags="|calibration|anet-a8|y-axis|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5725" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5724" CreationDate="2018-03-29T17:42:16.840" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently went to the same issue on my CoreXY printer (culprit was uneven belt tension in the 2 belts), but you have a Prusa style printer like my first Anet A8 printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you just found out (because you are printing large models now) but always had this issue it could be frame related. You should check your printer and try to fix the geometry that is causing this. If this is impossible you could fix this by changing the firmware (see below). If large prints used to be accurate, but are now skewed, you could be facing stretched belts. Replacing them will fix the issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Skewness compensation in Marlin:&#xA;When X-Y are skew (or any other plane like X-Z or Y-Z) you can fix that through the firmware software in &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Marlin Firmware&lt;/a&gt;. Please go into the &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/blob/1.1.x/Marlin/Configuration.h&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Configuration.h&lt;/a&gt; file and look at the instructions; please search for &quot;Bed Skew Compensation&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically you are required to print a giant square and measure the diagonals, these should be the same, but apparently are not in your case. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-03-29T19:22:59.120" LastActivityDate="2018-03-29T19:22:59.120" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5726" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5710" CreationDate="2018-03-29T18:59:25.577" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Using a combination of external and small perimeter speed settings (Slic3r), as well as slowing down the overall print speed on the printer itself, I was able to get reliable curves on the horseshoes.  I have also downloaded Cura and am playing with the advanced print options that it comes with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10337" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-07-30T15:40:50.843" LastActivityDate="2018-07-30T15:40:50.843" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5727" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5710" CreationDate="2018-03-29T19:18:35.603" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;possible solutions&lt;br&gt;&#xA;1) try and increase the extruder temp by 5 degrees for the first layer and see if that helps&lt;br&gt;&#xA;2) disable coolign for the first few layers.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;3) try adding some PVA glue (washable school glue or elmers washable gluestick) to the masking tape&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;if the above failed set a z offset (in slic3r the z offset is in the printer tab)&lt;br&gt;&#xA;3a) if you manually level with paper and have access to a caliper. change the z offset in your slicer, to a negative of whatever you used to level.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;3b) if you manually level and you don't have a caliper set the z offset to -.1, if you used something thicker like a business card try -.15 or -.2&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10178" LastActivityDate="2018-03-29T19:18:35.603" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5728" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5706" CreationDate="2018-03-29T19:27:37.253" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;that looks like heat creep.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;heat creep is the result of in too much heat in the hot end creeping its way into the cold end. and results in a gradual clogs mid print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;to combat heat creep you need to sink that heat elsewhere and dissipate it.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;this is where a heatsink and fan come into play.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;the heatsink should be in direct contact with the throat mount/clamp, giving the heat more space to dissipate, and that dissipation is aided by the fan.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10178" LastActivityDate="2018-03-29T19:27:37.253" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5729" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5730" CreationDate="2018-03-29T20:17:44.827" Score="8" ViewCount="1202" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently bought an Anet A6 and decided to assemble it today. When I plugged in the power, I don't get any sign of life from the printer. No lights, no bleeps, no fans which are starting to blow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I checked the motherboard and it receives power from the adapter (I live in Europe, the Netherlands, so the voltage is 220V) but nothing happens.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can someone help me out?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I added some pictures of the wiring for references. Display cables are correctly set (J3 to J3 and LCD to LCD).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cjM1p.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cjM1p.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/M9wmi.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/M9wmi.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10270" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2019-08-31T08:20:36.870" LastActivityDate="2019-08-31T08:20:36.870" Title="Anet A6 - First time assembled, won't turn on" Tags="|troubleshooting|wiring|anet-a6|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5730" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5729" CreationDate="2018-03-30T01:12:42.690" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Welcome to 3d Printing!&#xA;as this is a first day of the printer there could be a list of items...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First thing first: disconnect all peripherals, so we can test mainboard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Before connecting PSU we can connect mainboard via usb and see if it starts (I will probably use a power bank in that case to avoid burning USB (worse case scenario)).&#xA;Then you can use cura or another host program to connect to the printer and validate firmware. If the printer is not recognized we can reflash the firmware using provided app or ArduinoIDE .&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If all looks good we can check PSU.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;please check output voltage from power supply unit (shall be 12V) (on the terminals, there is a small voltage regulator on the lefthand side)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;then double check polarity &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;connect power to mainboard&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;check if we have same voltage on mainboard terminals&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;then check if we have 12v on the fan terminal (40 * 10 fan shall run all the time on the hotend)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;if that is done and we have power provided to the mainboard then we need to check for 5V that powers the arduino mega2560 (that could indicate a faulty power regulator)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Select one of the available sockets and measure voltage on VCC and GND pins. If we have 5V then we can connect pheriperials one by one, always switching off PSU and disconnecting USB.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If one of the underlying components is faulty then you will see straight after powering the mainboard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Azwzl.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Azwzl.png&quot; alt=&quot;reprap pinouts&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://reprap.org/wiki/Megatronics_3.0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;image source&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9730" LastEditorUserId="9730" LastEditDate="2018-03-30T01:24:11.023" LastActivityDate="2018-03-30T01:24:11.023" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5732" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4970" CreationDate="2018-03-30T14:27:17.213" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Check out Hypermesh Optistruct, which lets you perform topology optimization to identify the optimal distribution of material within any matrix in order to satisfy desired performance criteria.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://altairhyperworks.com/solution/Additive-Manufacturing&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://altairhyperworks.com/solution/Additive-Manufacturing&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Similarly Scott Hollister's work describes the procedure to design a porous scaffold to meet conflicting requirements such as mechanical properties for strength and porosity % for material diffusion etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/16003400&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/16003400&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10340" LastActivityDate="2018-03-30T14:27:17.213" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5733" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4227" CreationDate="2018-03-30T15:01:48.020" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Although this reply is pretty late, there are some issues I would like to point out:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In the cup.gcode file there seems to be an issue with the layer height. The height for the second layer is larger than the third layer!&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you see that the cup prints good on one side (also thicker on one side), this is a good indication of a bed leveling issue. Although you indicate you did a full calibration, I would still re-check the bed leveling. The extruder head movement in the X-Y should be as closely parallel to the bed as possible.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The cooling settings in your Simplify3D profile are low. I would bump up the fan speed to ensure that the strand being laid down is sufficiently cooled to prevent overheating from subsequent loops.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Try slowing down the Z-axis speed. Stepping too quickly can cause skipped steps depending on the acceleration settings and mass/inertia of the head.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10340" LastActivityDate="2018-03-30T15:01:48.020" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5734" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5637" CreationDate="2018-03-30T15:11:23.527" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;My 0.02c:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cut the tip of the new filament at an angle so that it is pointed enough. This will ensure that it easily enters the hole leading into the hot end beneath the extruder drive gear. A lot of times the curl in the filament (from being wound on a spool) will cause misalignment and lead to it not entering this hole properly.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check filament debris lodged in the extruder gear teeth. Sometimes this will prevent good grip on the filament.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Finally you can try increasing the nozzle temperature. Often times any residue inside the nozzle will be cleared by elevating temperature and pushing in new filament.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10340" LastActivityDate="2018-03-30T15:11:23.527" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5736" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5738" CreationDate="2018-03-31T22:48:49.780" Score="3" ViewCount="1213" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a simple printer bot metal with a heated bed, the heated bed I am not using. I am using conductive pla by protopasta &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The conductive pla is not that strong, so when I take my pieces off the board, sometimes they break. The only time it appears to be invincibly strong is when it sticks to the bed plate! I cannot get the skirt off the bed plate, no matter what I try&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a razor blade does not work, even when the bed isn’t heated and after dumping a bunch of acetone on the board&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;using no skirt does not work, as the printer clogs itself&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;it is difficult enough to remove to the point that printing itself isn’t fun&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;when scratching it off, the pieces only chip, because they stick better to the bed than they do to themselves (unlike PLA)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What’s a good way to remove a conductive pla skirt from one of the beds? The skirt is the initial outline a printer lays down, it is very thin&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10369" LastActivityDate="2018-04-04T01:05:23.467" Title="Removing protopasta conductive PLA skirt from a bed" Tags="|adhesion|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5737" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5736" CreationDate="2018-03-31T23:30:04.847" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Based on your description &quot;it is very thin&quot; about the skirt, and by the other characteristics you've provided, I suggest that your z-height for the first layer is suspect of being too small, too close to the bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have calibration specific to z-height only, re-calibrate and make a test  print with skirt. If the test is better, this tells you that the previous setting was at fault. If the test is not better, use a different setting by 0.01 mm or 0.02 mm and run another test.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastActivityDate="2018-03-31T23:30:04.847" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5738" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5736" CreationDate="2018-04-01T20:43:48.117" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have no experience with your printer model nor with protopasta conductive PLA but since your problem is &quot;too much adhesion&quot; I would simply suggest to &lt;strong&gt;follow in reverse all the usual advices on how to make the first layer adhere better&lt;/strong&gt; (a far more common problem).  The list of suggestion could be:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Print fast&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do no squash the first layer (see @fred_dot_u answer)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Make sure the part fan is on&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Reduce the temperature slightly&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;...&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem could also be due to the chemical interaction between the surface of your plate and the specific material (for example: it is known that glass - a relatively difficult surface to use with PLA - bonds so well to PETG that sometimes it chips off the bed when you remove the print).  If this is the case you could for example &lt;strong&gt;cover your bed in painter's tape&lt;/strong&gt; and see if the protopasta conductive PLA adhere worse to it than to the bare bed.  Worst case scenario, you could remove the tape with the print and scrub it off from it afterwards with a metal brush or a bit of sandpaper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9134" LastActivityDate="2018-04-01T20:43:48.117" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5739" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5637" CreationDate="2018-04-02T14:35:32.333" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would agree with PR90, cutting the filament tip at a 45% angle before inserting might help. If the new material has required a different temperature to the previous, then you could have burnt the old material clogging the nozzle (take nozzle off by unscrewing, if it a brass hex nozzle) - if the new material requires a lower temperature, then it will not melt the materiel old pushing it out. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See if you can go into Move Axis (manually) and then go to 0.01&amp;nbsp;mm then Extrude and see if that works. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you hear a slipping or backlash sound coming from the extruder stepper motor, look at motor gear and check for clogging. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Please check the heat requirements of the new and old materials&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10381" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-04-02T18:56:44.077" LastActivityDate="2018-04-02T18:56:44.077" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5743" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5745" CreationDate="2018-04-02T21:02:54.000" Score="11" ViewCount="1967" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ultimaker Cura offers a platform support type of “&lt;em&gt;touching buildplate&lt;/em&gt;” which enables the printer to only make a raft for parts of the object that should be touching the build plate. It also offers “&lt;em&gt;everywhere&lt;/em&gt;” for any object that might be hanging over the build plate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a need to only offer support for overhangs up to a certain z height, such any overhang located at a z-point of 4&amp;nbsp;mm or below. Is there a software that will enable this, either as a setting/addition to Ultimaker Cura or just a G-code export for Pronterface?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10369" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-01-09T11:27:47.043" LastActivityDate="2019-01-09T11:27:47.043" Title="Platform support up to a certain Z height in Ultimaker Cura/G-code" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|g-code|support-structures|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5744" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5212" CreationDate="2018-04-02T21:11:37.750" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can add return; command in the &lt;code&gt;ultralcd_impl_DOGM.h&lt;/code&gt; file.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;  void lcd_bootscreen() { &#xA;    #if ENABLED(SHOW_CUSTOM_BOOTSCREEN)&#xA;      lcd_custom_bootscreen();&#xA;    #endif&#xA;    return;  // Add this line  &#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10386" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2022-12-27T22:12:02.367" LastActivityDate="2022-12-27T22:12:02.367" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5745" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5743" CreationDate="2018-04-02T21:40:39.377" Score="3" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Is there a software that will enable this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, as of Ultimaker Cura 3.3 Beta, Ultimaker Cura allows you to specify an area which will not be considered for adding supports. In your case you could define everything above 4&amp;nbsp;mm to be excluded from building support structures. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can look &lt;a href=&quot;https://community.ultimaker.com/topic/22192-introducing-ultimaker-cura-33-beta/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; for this very new feature, it might be what you're looking for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-01-09T11:17:35.603" LastActivityDate="2019-01-09T11:17:35.603" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5746" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5743" CreationDate="2018-04-03T06:56:49.870" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Is there a software that will enable this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't own a copy of it, but from talking with other 3D printing enthusiasts, I know &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.simplify3d.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;simplify3d&lt;/a&gt; is the slicer out there with the most granular control over support structures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm unaware if it has a setting for &lt;em&gt;exactly&lt;/em&gt; what you want, but I know it has the possibility to manually add support in selected parts of your model, so - depending on size and complexity of your model, and on the level of accuracy you need - it may well be an option for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is proprietary, commercial software with a &quot;no question asked&quot; refund policy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9134" LastActivityDate="2018-04-03T06:56:49.870" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5747" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5743" CreationDate="2018-04-03T13:23:07.217" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As an alternative, look into  3D modelling tools which allow you to add your own support towers to the model itself.  Do that, then set your slicing tool to &quot;no support&quot; or equivalent. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2191" LastActivityDate="2018-04-03T13:23:07.217" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5748" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5749" CreationDate="2018-04-03T18:48:05.973" Score="6" ViewCount="1383" Body="&lt;p&gt;For example, to make a DIY cartesian 3d printer you &lt;strong&gt;could&lt;/strong&gt; use/do the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Create G-code using a program of your choice.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Load it into Universal G-code Sender (GRBL).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Pass it into an Arduino with GRBL.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The arduino can pass the instructions to the drivers through a GRBL arduino uno shield.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The drivers will control the steppers.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to make a DYI delta 3d printer, which point of this whole process needs to be altered in order for the delta printer to work properly? Is there an existing open source software for delta printers/cncs?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: This question could be asked about any kind of non-cartesian 3d printer, including Delta, SCARA, Polar, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10398" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-07-06T10:24:10.113" LastActivityDate="2018-07-06T16:16:59.573" Title="At which point does a delta 3d printer change the G-code in order to work in its non-cartesian design?" Tags="|diy-3d-printer|delta|open-source|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5749" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5748" CreationDate="2018-04-03T19:31:18.173" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The short answer is that the handling of the non-cartesian design is done by the motion-control firmware running on the Arduino.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The long answer:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't believe GRBL supports non-cartesian designs, and it is not commonly used for printers. It is more often used for mills, routers, or laser machines. 3D printers will typically use a firmware such as Marlin, which supports several printer designs, including Delta machines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At no point is the g-code itself changed. The motion control firmware running on the Arduino or other controller interprets the g-code and determines which way and when to step each motor to accomplish the motion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With a simple cartesian machine, commands for the X-axis only relate to the X-axis motor, but for a non-cartesian machine the axis and motors have complex relationships. The firmware must be programmed and configured to control the motors correctly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The g-code itself is never passed to the drivers. The commands to the driver are simple electrical signals to &quot;enable&quot; (to energize the motor power - even to just hold position), &quot;direction&quot; (which way to rotate the motor shaft), and &quot;step&quot; (which causes the motor to rotate by one step in the selected direction).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5704" LastActivityDate="2018-04-03T19:31:18.173" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5750" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5736" CreationDate="2018-04-04T01:05:23.467" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think the setting having the most significant effect would be to increase the Z-height by 0.05-0.1mm so that the skirt is not &quot;sandwiched&quot; against the bed like typical first layers in FDM. This should reduce the adhesion enough for you to remove the skirt from the bed without damage. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively, you could also increase the skirt extrusion width if possible (more material=stronger) and/or print another layer of skirt on top (skirt layers=2).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10340" LastActivityDate="2018-04-04T01:05:23.467" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5751" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5611" CreationDate="2018-04-04T01:25:45.687" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Perhaps more than biocompatible, which generally refers to a material that does not illicit a harmful inflammatory response inside the body, you should be looking at bioresorbable materials, which are materials that dissolve inside the body after a certain time period without needing mechanical removal. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As an example, FDA approved poly (lactic acid) is available in pellet form from Corbion (formerly PURAC biomaterials) and can be extruded into 1.75mm filament for use with any desktop 3D printer (&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S2214860416301385&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S2214860416301385&lt;/a&gt;). Similarly, researchers have used poly (caprolactone) to 3D print scaffolds with using a stratasys FDM machine (&lt;a href=&quot;https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/pdf/10.1002/1097-4636(200105)55:2%3C203::AID-JBM1007%3E3.0.CO;2-7&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/pdf/10.1002/1097-4636(200105)55:2%3C203::AID-JBM1007%3E3.0.CO;2-7&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10340" LastActivityDate="2018-04-04T01:25:45.687" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5752" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5596" CreationDate="2018-04-04T03:48:37.697" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Thanks to the answers of &lt;em&gt;fred_dot_u&lt;/em&gt; and &lt;em&gt;Sean Houlihane&lt;/em&gt;, I did some more research.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are three features involved here:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Combing (follow the already printed path when travelling)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Retraction (pull back the filament while travelling)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Z-hop (move the nozzle up while travelling)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The relationship between those settings is like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Retraction is only done when not combing*&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Z-hop is only done when retracting&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Therefore to lift the nozzle when travelling, one must disable combing and enable retraction and z-hop. This prevents the nozzle from scratching the surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sub&gt;* it was deemed unnecessary, but that might change in a future version; there is also a plugin that changes this&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10131" LastActivityDate="2018-04-04T03:48:37.697" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5753" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5596" CreationDate="2018-04-04T05:40:33.817" Score="-3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It seems like the issue may only be that your nozzle has developed a bit of oozing.  The g code likes to repeat the same patterns for at least a few layers every time it changes patterns and if it does the same pattern on the top 3-4 layers than by the time it reaches the last layer on the top that pattern will actually be the slightest bit raised above the rest of the layers because of the ooze building up along the same pattern for how many ever layers it followed the same pattern. Your nozzle is than rubbing on that raised pattern when it completes the last layer.  This explains the randomness like OP said because the g code may not repeat the same pattern for 3 or more layers at the surface but without reading the gcode it would seemingly be random when and where they occurred.  And truthfully if its a small oozing you could reprint this and it could be gone if you changed almost any setting in cura because the g code would be recalculated differently and new patterns would be chosen but so long as the new gcode did not have the same pattern repeat itself on the top 3 or so layers you would not have these raised patterns for the nozzle to rub on when finishing the top last layer.    &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10401" LastEditorUserId="10401" LastEditDate="2018-04-06T04:59:31.660" LastActivityDate="2018-04-06T04:59:31.660" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5754" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-04-04T19:12:13.373" Score="4" ViewCount="1817" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am a novice to 3D printing and have encountered an issue that I cannot seem to solve. Hopefully someone here can point me in the right direction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a Creality Ender 4 that I purchased a few months ago and up until about 4 weeks ago, it worked great. I had moved it from its original place and in doing so, something became amiss in the firmware as it would no longer heat up the print bed either manually or by sending print commands via USB. The SD card slots would also give errors when trying to print from an SD card. So, after doing some research, I ended up flashing the firmware in hopes that it would reset any of the hiccups I was having.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This both did, and did not, work. I tried MK4Duo, but apparently there was no support for my auto bed leveler and the bed was coming up and hitting the nozzle tip when I tried to print. I switched and uploaded Marlin 1.1.8 which seems to have solved the non-functionality of the auto leveler, but it has caused a new problem that I just can't solve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, when I try to initiate a print, the bed will not raise high enough. It stops, either when I set Z to home, or try to print, at about one quarter of one inch from the tip of the nozzle. Of course, at this point when the print starts, the extruded filament just comes out in mid-air like toothpaste and curls up all over the bed. I can manually push the bed higher to the point it needs to start at, but it still drops too low when I try to print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am comfortable enough in using Arduino to try to correct the problem in the firmware (if it is a firmware problem), but I'm just not sure where I need to look or what I need to adjust. If someone would be kind enough to assist me in tracking down some possible places to look, or what might be causing this, I would be extremely grateful! I want to be able to print again!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10407" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-07-08T11:22:02.277" LastActivityDate="2018-07-23T13:32:05.707" Title="Problem with print bed height on Creality Ender 4" Tags="|marlin|firmware|z-probe|bed-leveling|creality-ender-4|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5755" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4854" CreationDate="2018-04-04T23:25:14.770" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;3d printing a gradient like that will take:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) A program capable of graphing color into your 3D model&#xA;2) A 3D printer capable of printing multiple colors (multi nozzle 3D printers)&#xA;3) Some way to convert that density function to a change in color. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are certain types of files called .3mf files that can hold different color information- but I thinking relating the electron density to a change in color may be rather difficult (if possible at all). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think a better bet is to go with the 3D probability map of a 2D Image, as suggested by Gumbo. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have come across a neat little project that is half of what you are looking for. These are mathematically accurate, 3D printed atomic orbitals (graphed with their Schrodinger Equations). &#xA;Link Here: &lt;a href=&quot;https://pubs.acs.org/doi/abs/10.1021/acs.jchemed.6b00293&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://pubs.acs.org/doi/abs/10.1021/acs.jchemed.6b00293&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10410" LastActivityDate="2018-04-04T23:25:14.770" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5756" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-04-05T16:23:24.933" Score="6" ViewCount="128" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found an old Creaform3D EXAscan laying around at the company I work for, and tried to plug it on a computer to see if it still works. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I discovered that it uses a software called RapidForm for data acquisition, but its license is expired.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I looked in the manufacturer site for drivers or something similar but there isn't anything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any other software or way to read the data coming from such scanner? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10418" LastActivityDate="2018-08-20T20:57:36.867" Title="3D scanner data acquisition" Tags="|scanning|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5757" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5758" CreationDate="2018-04-05T17:17:46.723" Score="4" ViewCount="3468" Body="&lt;p&gt;How do I know what nozzle to get for my Anet A6 printer? I want to get some hardened nozzles because I would love to print with some glow in the dark filament, but I know that eats up brass nozzles fast. But there is so many thread differences so I don't know which one to get, or even what thread the Anet A6 is. Could I have some help finding the thread type and what hardened nozzles would be recommended?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8835" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2019-08-31T08:23:06.077" LastActivityDate="2019-08-31T08:23:06.077" Title="Threads for nozzle (Anet A6 extruder)" Tags="|nozzle|anet-a6|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5758" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5757" CreationDate="2018-04-05T21:15:29.117" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Anet A6 uses the mk8 extruder (also used by the Anet A8). Please search for mk8 nozzles (for 1.75 mm filament). These nozzles use M6 threads. Standard nozzle size is 0.4 mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-04-09T20:50:18.847" LastActivityDate="2018-04-09T20:50:18.847" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5760" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5763" CreationDate="2018-04-06T02:47:24.460" Score="9" ViewCount="1751" Body="&lt;p&gt;I hear that heated beds can help with removing finished prints, but not all printers have them! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is this a nice to have or must have feature? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Are there any downsides to heated beds?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10422" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-07-11T13:30:44.753" LastActivityDate="2018-07-11T13:30:44.753" Title="Why is a heated bed important?" Tags="|heated-bed|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5761" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5760" CreationDate="2018-04-06T03:50:16.510" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;It can help with bed adhesion. However, most 3D printing plastics will warp without a heated bed (since they shrink as they cool). ABS is notorious for this, although PLA is not so bad, and you can get away without a heated bed for small parts. ABS is so sensitive that you may need a heated (or at least draught-proof) enclosure, as well as a heated bed. If you are considering buying a 3D printer, it is best to get one with a heated bed, unless you are on a very restricted budget. If you buy a printer without a heated bed, you will soon realise that you need one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3953" LastActivityDate="2018-04-06T03:50:16.510" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5762" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5772" CreationDate="2018-04-06T05:18:29.500" Score="0" ViewCount="880" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to run two stepper motors using Arduino Mega 2560 and RAMPS 1.4. But, somehow I burned the Arduino while I was connecting the motor and plugging the board to the computer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I plug external power supply and USB connection to the computer at the same time?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Additional info from comments&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am using RAMPS 1.4 with Polulo red stepper drivers and Arduino Mega R3. I am only using two Nema 17 stepper motors and not using any hotbed or anything else other than the two stepper motors for the x and y axes. I am feeding 11.9 V supply to the RAMPS board. When powered on, can I plug the USB to my computer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Suppose I have connected two motors on the X and Y outputs of the RAMPS, and the external power supply is on, then can I connect my Arduino to my PC using USB? Will it burn my board or not?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My only trouble is that when the board is on load, connecting the USB to computer motors would take power by Arduino pins instead of the RAMPS external supply.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10423" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2020-07-31T05:03:42.517" LastActivityDate="2020-07-31T05:13:55.293" Title="Arduino and Ramps powering up" Tags="|diy-3d-printer|ramps-1.4|power-supply|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ClosedDate="2018-04-23T11:31:41.677" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5763" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5760" CreationDate="2018-04-06T06:46:29.410" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'll try to give it a shot as the other answer (perfectly sound answer b.t.w.) does explain &lt;strong&gt;&quot;how&quot;&lt;/strong&gt; we use heated beds, but not &lt;strong&gt;&quot;why&quot;&lt;/strong&gt; they are actually needed for good prints.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Plastics or polymers are mostly &lt;strong&gt;amorphous&lt;/strong&gt; (no macro crystalline structure) and usually relatively hard and brittle at low temperatures (this is referred to as &quot;glassy&quot;). By increasing the temperature of the plastics the state of the material changes as it becomes soft and more ductile (called the viscous or rubbery state). The temperature at which this transition takes place is called the &quot;&lt;strong&gt;glass transition temperature&lt;/strong&gt;&quot;. It is this temperature where you would heat your bed too (or close to this temperature). Below the glass temperature, the expansion is reduced/low because the polymer chains cannot move easily due to the closer packing and stronger inter-molecular forces; increasing the temperature increases the expansion lowering inter-molecular forces. The difference in stress between the bed and your print is therefore reduced (as of the expansion  of the heated polymer).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This explains why we use heated bed to get the prints to stick to the bed. To answer your question why it helps in removing prints is that when the temperature is lowered, the polymer gets back into its &quot;glassy&quot; state, shrinks a bit and automatically loosens the print from the bed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Indeed for printing PLA you can print without a heated bed, but for materials with a higher glass transition temperature and higher printing temperature it's almost a must to have. Downsides of heated beds are that they require a lot of power and when improperly installed lead to burned wires and connectors. It's usually wise to strain relief the wires from the bed and use proper gauge silicone leads and connectors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-04-07T08:06:35.963" LastActivityDate="2018-04-07T08:06:35.963" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5764" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5762" CreationDate="2018-04-06T10:09:22.800" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The answer is, yes you can, but you need to follow guidelines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Reversing +/- or otherwise incorrectly connecting power can destroy your electronics and cause fire hazard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From &lt;a href=&quot;http://reprap.org/wiki/RAMPS_1.4&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;RepRap wiki - RAMPS 1.4&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maximum Input Voltage Power Supply without diode There are three&#xA;limiting factors to the maximum voltage that you can put into the&#xA;RAMPS:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Arduino Mega maximum input voltage Filtering capacitor maximum&#xA;voltages PTC fuse maximum voltages First, the 1N4004 diode connects&#xA;the RAMPS input voltage to the Arduino Mega which has a recommended&#xA;maximum input voltage of 12 volts. If your board does not have this&#xA;diode soldered in (or if you cut it), you will need to power the Mega&#xA;through the USB connector or through a separate 5v line, but this&#xA;allows a higher RAMPS voltage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second, most boards use 25v or 35v aluminum electrolytic capactors&#xA;(C2, C3, C4, C6, C7, C9, and C10). To be safe, you should only go to&#xA;half of your rated maximum voltage -- thus if your board has 35v&#xA;capacitors (code VZA) then you should use a maximum input of 17.5v.&#xA;The absolute maximum voltage is determined by the pololu servo&#xA;drivers, which themselves are limited to 35V.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Third, the MF-R500 (5A) PTC fuse is rated to 30V and the MF-R1100&#xA;(11A) PTC fuse is rated to 16V. They will need to be replaced with&#xA;real fuses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Power Supply with diode If your board has a 1N4004 diode soldered in,&#xA;do not apply more than 12 V to it. Original flavor Arduino Mega are&#xA;rated to 12 V input. While Arduino Mega 2560 can take 20 V, it is not&#xA;recommended.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9730" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2020-07-31T05:13:55.293" LastActivityDate="2020-07-31T05:13:55.293" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5765" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5766" CreationDate="2018-04-06T11:45:29.320" Score="7" ViewCount="3445" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm building a 40x40x40cm corexy and I am quite impatient so I want the heated to reach the target temperature as fast as possible, so I ordered a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.aliexpress.com/item/400X400mm-1200W-220V-w-NTC-100K-Thermistor-Keenovo-Silicone-Heater-Pad-for-Huge-Mega-Cube-3D/32550597606.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.Io1mMV&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Keenovo silicone heater&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;It is a 220VAC 1200Watt bed, so I really want to make sure that it is safe to use.&#xA;I also bought a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.crydom.com/en/products/catalog/series-1-240-ac-panel-mount.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Crydom D2450&lt;/a&gt; SSR.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could someone tell me if the wiring in the diagram I made below is safe?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do I need to put a fuse or some other kind of safety?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dd7TA.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dd7TA.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;wiring&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10430" LastEditorUserId="10321" LastEditDate="2018-04-06T18:15:43.430" LastActivityDate="2018-04-06T18:15:43.430" Title="Mains powered heatbed safety" Tags="|heated-bed|fdm|safety|wiring|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5766" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5765" CreationDate="2018-04-06T12:09:16.223" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The most important thing is the following: &lt;strong&gt;make sure that any exposed metal surfaces of your printer are properly grounded&lt;/strong&gt;. This includes the frame if it is made of metal, or the aluminium plate you might use as your heated bed. In the event of a fault, having the metal surfaces grounded protects you from getting shocked when you touch the printer. If any surfaces are aluminium, be aware that the oxide layer that forms on aluminium does not conduct very well, so make sure that you get a good connection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should consider adding a thermal fuse or bimetallic switch to the heated bed so power gets cut in case the bed overheats (to protect against the relay failing closed or firmware errors).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In principle, if the wires used are thick enough (capable of carrying at least 16A), then there is no need for a fuse. Assuming you are in a normal European household, then the mains line will already have a 16A fuse. If your printer connects to the mains using a IEC C13 connector (kettle lead, very common) then you should have a fuse rated (at most) 10A somewhere because this is the maximum rating of the connector. For a very small amount of added safety, you could use a lower-rated fuse instead (for instance 7A) but this is not required. Your heated bed can draw up to around 5A so you can't use a fuse lower than (or equal to) that. If you are indeed using an IEC socket to connect your printer to the mains, then it might have a fuse holder (or try to find a socket that does).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your image suggests two possible fuse positions. It would be advisable to place the fuse near the live/hot connection, but as European power sockets are non-polarized, this is essentially a moot point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastActivityDate="2018-04-06T12:09:16.223" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5767" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5765" CreationDate="2018-04-06T13:21:28.860" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The diagram you show is in compliance with the manufacturers' specifications so far as connections go.  Make sure any wire you supply is rated for the voltage and current intended for use.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;If there is not a safety cover (typically clear plastic) over the junctions where you'll be attaching wires, you should add a cover, or alternatively put the entire relay inside a UL-rated box with stress-release feedthrus for all the wires.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;It never hurts to add a fuse or breaker in the source hot feed.  I'd recommend slow-blow.  &lt;strong&gt;NEVER fuse the return side, since a fault or blown fuse here will leave everything live and floating&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, this is more of an electronics question than a 3D printer question, so you might want to wander over to electronics.stackexchange for information on general design safety for high-current systems like this. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2191" LastActivityDate="2018-04-06T13:21:28.860" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5768" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5771" CreationDate="2018-04-06T14:59:52.603" Score="6" ViewCount="1635" Body="&lt;p&gt;With hot plastic being laid down layer after layer, I am worried about fumes. Should I only print in a well ventilated work space? Should I add additional ventilation?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10422" LastActivityDate="2018-04-07T01:05:12.757" Title="Should I print in a well ventilated area?" Tags="|ventilation|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5769" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5768" CreationDate="2018-04-06T16:14:52.740" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are some contradicting sources out there on whether plastics, especially ABS, have toxic fumes. It is well known that PLA is food safe, as it is an organic, biodegradable polymer being based on a particular cornstarch. This means that PLA &lt;em&gt;is&lt;/em&gt; safe when printing, although it can produce foul smells from the dyes and other ingredients. As for the other plastics, it is most commonly said that the fumes are toxic, although, as stated earlier, there are some contradicting topics on this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://thesoftlanding.com/is-acrylonitrile-butadiene-styrene-abs-plastic-toxic/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Here&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprintingindustry.com/news/toxic-abs-pla-fumes-3dsafety-org-inquires-vocs-60796/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; are some articles for further reading.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10436" LastActivityDate="2018-04-06T16:14:52.740" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5770" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3554" CreationDate="2018-04-06T22:29:40.003" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had the same problem with ABS, but printing different test objects I found out that the distance between the wavy structures depends on the cross sectional area of the object. Printing the testcube in 70.1% (1/sqrt(2) times of the original size) takes half the time per layer and the distance between two grooves doubles. I was printing ABS with 0.1 mm layer height and the simple bang-bang heat bed controller. The temperature is clearly wandering for 4° with a period of aproximately 2.5 minutes, which corresponds to the groove distances. After changing to a PID controller for the heated bed the temperature stayed within 0.1°C and the problem was gone. Several hundredths of a millimeter thermal expansion of the heated bed can have substantial impact at 0.1 mm layer height!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can enable the PID controller for the heated bed in Marlin or Skynet firmware by enabling (removing the &lt;code&gt;//&lt;/code&gt;) here:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;code&gt;//#define PIDTEMPBED&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and disabling (putting &lt;code&gt;//&lt;/code&gt; at the beginning of the line) here:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;code&gt;#define BED_LIMIT_SWITCHING&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;in Configuration.h. Calibration of the PID controller can then be done with the GCODE Command: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;M303 E-1 S90 C8&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;for 90°C. I had to preheat the heated bed before, otherwise the calibration would run into a timeout. The command will return parameters for the PID algorithm. The values can then be applied by the &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;M304 P579.01 I100.87 D586.0&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;GCODE command (here for example values). Everything can then be saved to the EEPROM with &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;M500&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bang-Bang controller:&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rQbWH.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Bang-Bang controller&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PID controller:&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ka0AA.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;PID controller&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10397" LastEditorUserId="10397" LastEditDate="2018-04-09T12:27:11.190" LastActivityDate="2018-04-09T12:27:11.190" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5771" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5768" CreationDate="2018-04-07T01:05:12.757" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The short answer is: &lt;strong&gt;yes, it is always a good idea to print in a well-ventilated area&lt;/strong&gt;.  The longer answer can be articulated as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Definition of &amp;quot;fumes&amp;quot;&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&amp;quot;Fumes&amp;quot; is a fuzzy word that from a chemical/physical perspective includes at least three different things:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Vapour&lt;/strong&gt; - the gas phase of a substance&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Aerosol&lt;/strong&gt; - a airborne suspension of tiny particles of liquid, solid, or both&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Smoke&lt;/strong&gt; - particles and gases emitted when a material undergoes combustion or pyrolysis (so really: a smoke is a combination of &lt;em&gt;vapours&lt;/em&gt; and &lt;em&gt;aerosols&lt;/em&gt; too... but the combustion/pyrolysis will have changed the very nature of the material, so it will be &amp;quot;vapours and aerosols of &lt;em&gt;a different substance&lt;/em&gt;&amp;quot;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Interactions with the human body&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Each of the above has a different way of interacting with the human body.  The list of possible interactions is huge, and out-of-scope for this answer, but just to mention a few obvious ones:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Vapours tend to enter cells by osmotic pressure and can have carcinogenic effects by either attacking the genome of the cell or by disrupting its metabolic processes (think: benzene in car fuel)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Aerosols can trigger the immune system, and in return have the body develop allergies or autoimmune reactions.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Aerosols can deposit their particles on the cellular membrane, making it impossible for it to operate correctly and eventually fail (like neurons failing to transmit electrical impulses, for example)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;...&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Composition of filaments&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Modern filaments are a combination of different substances: the basic plastic (PLA, ABS, PETG...) that gives the name to the filament is almost always mixed with &lt;em&gt;other plastics&lt;/em&gt; and additives that change its physical characteristics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In some cases, the filament is host to &lt;em&gt;particles of other materials&lt;/em&gt; (like wood, metals or phosphorescent compounds).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Each of the different materials have different transition and critical and flash points (the temperatures at which they will become vapour and ignite respectively), and different physical properties which in turn will affect differently the size of the particles in the aerosol coming out of the printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Conclusion&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bottom-line is that it is close to impossible to have a &lt;em&gt;complete&lt;/em&gt; understanding of how a given &amp;quot;fume&amp;quot; affects human health.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Typically the safety of a substance is tested in a lab by directly observing its effect on cells, or by performing epidemiological studies in a population, if the exposure data to a given substance is known.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When people comment on PLA being &amp;quot;safe&amp;quot; for example, they typically refer to studies that tested inert, cold, chemically pure PLA.  But the &lt;em&gt;fumes&lt;/em&gt; of a PLA filament will probably not be inert, nor cold, nor be exclusively PLA.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally, it has to be observed that it is much easier to rule a filament harmful than safe: for it to be considered harmful it is sufficient to know that one of its components is harmful (for ABS that is typically studies showing the adverse affect of ABS aerosols on health).  For it to be deemed safe, one must know that &lt;em&gt;all&lt;/em&gt; if its components are safe, but most filament do not go through the rigorous testing required to ascertain that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In conclusion, &lt;strong&gt;it is always a good idea to get rid of the fumes from 3D printing regardless of the type filament being used&lt;/strong&gt;.  The ideal solution is a printing enclosure maintaining negative pressure, but an enclosure with air filtering or a well ventilated room are also good options (ventilation can have adverse effects on printing quality though, due to drafts and their cooling effect).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9134" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:29:41.667" LastActivityDate="2018-04-07T01:05:12.757" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5772" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5762" CreationDate="2018-04-07T05:38:47.843" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had a similar issue building my Prusa i3 Mk2s clone.  I was constantly hooking &amp;amp; unhooking my Arduino from my PC while the printer was plugged into the mains.  At some point it had enough &amp;amp; it released some &amp;quot;magic smoke&amp;quot;.  Later on I found out this was the power regulator on the Arduino.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You shouldn't &lt;strong&gt;need&lt;/strong&gt; to plug in the USB and the external power to the Arduino at the same time, but if you did, it is smart enough to only use one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That being said, by default the RAMPS passes 12V straight to the Arduino in order to power it (the Vin pin).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10439" LastEditorUserId="21622" LastEditDate="2020-07-30T17:26:59.203" LastActivityDate="2020-07-30T17:26:59.203" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5773" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5214" CreationDate="2018-04-07T05:54:25.017" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I follow the techniques spelled out in this video on Tom's 3d:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://toms3d.org/2017/01/09/basics-cleaning-clogged-nozzle/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Basics: Cleaning out a clogged nozzle!&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Essentially you:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Heat up the hot end past the point you normally print at.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Manually (gently) push filament out of the hot end.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Turn off heat &amp;amp; continue applying pressure to the filament, until it quits extruding (it has cooled off).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Set the heat on the hot end to normal printing temprature for the filament &amp;amp; immediately start pulling &lt;strong&gt;firmly&lt;/strong&gt; on the filament, but not too hard.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;As soon as it melts enough, it will just &quot;slip out&quot; &amp;amp; bring any stuck crud with it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I went ahead and bought some white nylon filament so I can heat it up hotter (good for cleaning out ABS) and since it's white, I can see the nasty crap it pulls out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10439" LastActivityDate="2018-04-07T05:54:25.017" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5774" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4692" CreationDate="2018-04-07T05:59:10.620" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not a 3d printing expert by any means, but I had some funky layer stuff going on before &quot;wrinkled&quot; first layer &amp;amp; gross edges w/overlap.  For my printer, the problem was I was over-extruding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I followed this video by Tom's 3D: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YUPfBJz3I6Y&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;3D printing guides - Calibrating your extruder&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For some reason, I had to do it twice before it actually worked.  Once I got that calibrated (and fixed an uneven print bed), I was good to go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10439" LastActivityDate="2018-04-07T05:59:10.620" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5775" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5776" CreationDate="2018-04-07T17:56:22.463" Score="6" ViewCount="3979" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am currently printing the QTrainer aircraft from 3DLabPrint on my Anet A8, via the supplied i3-compatible gcode files.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So far, everything has printed fine, but the main undercarriage part tries to print off the left hand side of the bed by about 5mm. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have tried manually adding an &lt;code&gt;M206 X-10&lt;/code&gt; line to the gcode file, just after &lt;code&gt;G28 ; home all&lt;/code&gt;, however this has not had any effect:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;code&gt;G90&#xA;M83&#xA;M106 S0&#xA;M140 S65&#xA;M190 S65&#xA;M104 S220 T0&#xA;M109 S220 T0&#xA;G28 ; home all&#xA;M206 X-10 ; added by me&#xA;G1 E-0.8000 F1800&#xA;G1 Z0.200 F1002&#xA;; layer 1, Z = 0.2&#xA;T0&#xA;; tool H0.200 W0.450&#xA;; skirt&#xA;G1 X9.382 Y10.533 F6000&#xA;G1 E0.8000 F540&#xA;G1 X10.536 Y10.537 E0.0388 F1440&#xA;...&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However this does not work and I'm not clear on whether I am using this gcode command correctly, or whether my printer simply doesn't support that command.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there another way I can apply an X-offset to the gcode file (or printer) to move it a few cm to the right of the print area?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As I do not own Simplify3D and cannot currently afford it, re-slicing the STL files is unfortunately not an option.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately there is no X-adjustment on the X limit switch (although I suppose I could temporarily tape something to the print head, so that it activates the switch sooner?).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My Anet A8 currently runs stock firmware, hooked up to OctoPrint and I have access to a Macintosh desktop computer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7405" LastActivityDate="2018-04-07T18:11:21.847" Title="Apply X-offset to gcode (re-slicing not possible)" Tags="|g-code|anet-a8|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5776" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5775" CreationDate="2018-04-07T18:11:21.847" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can use &lt;code&gt;G92&lt;/code&gt; to change the coordinates the machine &quot;thinks&quot; it's at. If just after homing, you apply&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;G92 X-10&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;the machine now thinks it's at X = -10, while in reality it's at X = 0. This results in everything thereafter behaving as if it is shifted in the positive X direction by 10 mm (since if you then commanded a move to X = 1 the machine would move to what is physically X = 11).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastActivityDate="2018-04-07T18:11:21.847" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5777" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5760" CreationDate="2018-04-07T22:03:12.740" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is no simple answer. I will only cover the three main filaments: PLA, ABS, and PETG.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;ABS&lt;/strong&gt;: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;ABS likes to warp, and dislikes breezes and temperature changes. so a heat bed is required, as is some way to keep breezes off and heat in (I use a plastic tarp over my printer). &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Although there &lt;em&gt;are&lt;/em&gt; print surfaces that will claim to stop the warp. but a print surface can not change the nature of the filament.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A heated bed is pretty much required for ABS&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;PLA&lt;/strong&gt;: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;PLA is currently the most popular filament, it has low warping tendencies and it likes breezes, and prints really easy.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;PLA does not need a heated bed, but if the part is big it may peel off the print surface.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A heated bed is optional but will help with any warping you may encounter.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;PETG&lt;/strong&gt;: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;PETG is described as combining the printability of PLA and the strength of ABS. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;PETG is quite stringy and has a higher slightly chance of warping then PLA.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A heated bed is recommended, and will help keep it from warping.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, for print removal, a heated bed can help as well:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Most PLA prints, especially &lt;em&gt;smaller&lt;/em&gt; ones will remove just fine without a heated bed, &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;Medium&lt;/em&gt; prints having a removal tool will get those off  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A heated bed is really helpful for removing &lt;em&gt;large&lt;/em&gt; prints or prints that won't release using other methods.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10178" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-07-11T12:26:46.913" LastActivityDate="2018-07-11T12:26:46.913" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5778" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5780" CreationDate="2018-04-07T22:06:33.297" Score="3" ViewCount="1575" Body="&lt;p&gt;Recently I noticed that Cura always is giving me less printing time than the print itself takes on my TEVO Tarantula with Marlin firmware.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The time difference is about 15&amp;nbsp;%, at requested 50&amp;nbsp;mm/s printing speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;How could I verify real printing speed?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9730" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-12-09T14:55:51.227" LastActivityDate="2019-12-09T14:55:51.227" Title="How to determine real printing speed (TEVO Tarantula/Cura)?" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|slicing|tevo-tarantula|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5779" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5757" CreationDate="2018-04-07T22:20:00.743" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;look for MK8 or V6 nozzles that are for 1.75mm filament.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;but to answer your question the exact threading is M6 x 1mm thread pitch&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;both MK8 and e3d v6 nozzles use m6 x 1mm pitch&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Source: manual measurement of both my brass mk8 and stainless steel v6 nozzle&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10178" LastActivityDate="2018-04-07T22:20:00.743" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5780" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5778" CreationDate="2018-04-08T03:37:08.457" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Printing speed is dependent by the firmware and physical properties of your printer&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Slicers typically compute the expected time by assuming the printer will execute &lt;em&gt;exactly&lt;/em&gt; what it is instructed to do, but a printer is a real object, with mass and momentum, and stepper motors that have an upper limit for their power output and rotation speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So for example, the GCODE may say &quot;extrude 200mm at 100mm/s&quot; and the slicer will compute that operation as taking 2 seconds.  However the printer will need to accelerate and decelerate at the extremes of the movement, and it may even be incapable of reaching speeds over 70mm/s, so the &lt;em&gt;actual&lt;/em&gt; operation will likely take 3 seconds or more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Accelerations and decelerations account for most of the difference between ideal time and real one, and since the number and intensity of those is totally dependent by the GCODE/model being printed, &lt;strong&gt;it is not possible to simply multiply the computed time for a given factor&lt;/strong&gt; (for example &lt;code&gt;1.15&lt;/code&gt;, as your question seems to imply).  A large cylinder printed in vase mode will have a printing time much more similar to the computed one that an intricate model with a very complex surface, for example.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In recent years, slicers that are maintained by a printer manufacturer (cura, slic3r PE) have become better at estimating printing times for their own printers, as the settings of the firmware are accounted for in the actual estimating algorithm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you use Octoprint, you may have noticed that the time estimate octoprint gives improves over time, as &lt;strong&gt;octoprint will analyse the GCODE and measure the elapsed time, and will be able to guesstimate the real time with an increasingly degree of accuracy&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9134" LastEditorUserId="9134" LastEditDate="2018-04-08T18:34:23.693" LastActivityDate="2018-04-08T18:34:23.693" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5781" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5719" CreationDate="2018-04-09T06:08:00.680" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Quick, low-tech solution:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There might be several issues in your question, but in relation to bed adhesion, I'll share one of the most useful tips I wish someone had told me when I started out: &lt;em&gt;Spread some glue-stick over the area to be printed&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I used ordinary school/craft glue stick (which I stole from my daughter's school pencil case) - the kind for gluing paper. I use a purple one, so it's easy to see and easy to clean up. I apply a little glue then smear it around with a wet finger to make it a bit uniform.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a heated bed (FlashForge Creator Pro) and have used this little trick with a range of filaments. In almost every case, it helps adhesion enormously. Parts and supports stick like mad! But they still come off easily enough the usual way. It is a weak glue, so it won't lock the part to the bed. Once the part is off, the purple glue is visible when wet, so it is dead easy to clean up the part and the bed in a minute or two.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This trick is so easy that it is worth trying first for any adhesion issues, before digging deeper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9719" LastActivityDate="2018-04-09T06:08:00.680" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5782" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5784" CreationDate="2018-04-09T06:13:29.317" Score="3" ViewCount="637" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a RAMPS 1.4 with Arduino Mega 2560 with 2 steppers connected to an external power supply using Polulo stepper drivers. The steppers are for X and Y axis movement. This external power supply is set to 12 volts and power is applied. I have configured the marlin firmware also.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I connect my setup to my PC using USB when the external power is also on?&#xA;If i connect the USB while the external power is off, do the motors take power from USB? Will this will burn my board?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10423" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-04-10T11:21:53.490" LastActivityDate="2018-04-10T11:21:53.490" Title="Can I use external stepper motor power and USB connection" Tags="|ramps-1.4|stepper-driver|usb|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5784" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5782" CreationDate="2018-04-09T10:08:43.447" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The motors are powered from 12/24V external power supply, so the motors will not be powered. &#xA;the ramps &lt;a href=&quot;https://download.lulzbot.com/AO-100/hardware/electronics/RAMPS_1.4/RAMPS_1-4manual.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Schematics&lt;/a&gt; shows the connection diagram and the power is provided via the VMot pin/12V.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/n1tLn.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/n1tLn.png&quot; alt=&quot;Stepper diagram&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9730" LastActivityDate="2018-04-09T10:08:43.447" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5785" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4755" CreationDate="2018-04-09T12:11:55.807" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;My low-tech solution is to smear on some school/craft glue-stick. This is so quick and so easy yet it has saved me so many times from going any further troubleshooting adhesion problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/5781/9719&quot;&gt;answer to a similar question&lt;/a&gt; describes this in full.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9719" LastActivityDate="2018-04-09T12:11:55.807" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5786" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3925" CreationDate="2018-04-09T17:37:17.300" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;When using &lt;a href=&quot;http://marlinfw.org/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Marlin firmware&lt;/a&gt; you could easily change the pin layout of the extra extruder (E1) with the broken X stepper pins by changing the &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/blob/1.1.x/Marlin/pins_RAMPS.h&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;pins_RAMPS.h&lt;/a&gt; file.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://marlinfw.org/meta/download/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Download&lt;/a&gt; the firmware and open the firmware project in &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.arduino.cc/en/Main/Software&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Arduino IDE&lt;/a&gt;. Navigate to the &quot;Steppers&quot; section of the &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/blob/1.1.x/Marlin/pins_RAMPS.h&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;pins_RAMPS.h&lt;/a&gt; file and replace:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#define X_STEP_PIN         54&#xA;#define X_DIR_PIN          55&#xA;#define X_ENABLE_PIN       38&#xA;#define X_CS_PIN           53&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;for:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#define X_STEP_PIN         36&#xA;#define X_DIR_PIN          34&#xA;#define X_ENABLE_PIN       30&#xA;#define X_CS_PIN           44&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and also change:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#define E1_STEP_PIN        36&#xA;#define E1_DIR_PIN         34&#xA;#define E1_ENABLE_PIN      30&#xA;#define E1_CS_PIN          44&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;to:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#define E1_STEP_PIN        54&#xA;#define E1_DIR_PIN         55&#xA;#define E1_ENABLE_PIN      38&#xA;#define E1_CS_PIN          53&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the file is changed an saved, &lt;a href=&quot;http://marlinfw.org/docs/basics/install.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;build and upload&lt;/a&gt; code to your board and plug the connector of the X stepper into the E1 header.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2018-04-09T17:37:17.300" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5787" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3234" CreationDate="2018-04-09T20:22:42.057" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;We had a similar issue with our Makerbot printer here in the CARIS lab. &#xA;We would have slip, after slip and tried oiling, hand feeding, and roughing up the filament none of it worked. But we found an answer!!!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With the smart extruder, it's as simple as inserting a flathead screwdriver between the filament wheel and the housing, and prying the wheel towards the pin-side of the print head. Solved all our problems! Seriously, not a slip since and perfect prints.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've a short solution video for YouTube, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HEVKBtNdK04&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Fixing filament slip on your 3D printer&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check out the makerbot trouble shooting page for reference: &lt;a href=&quot;https://support.makerbot.com/troubleshooting/makerbot-replicator/error-codes/error-81_10422/2192&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;MakerBot Support &gt; Troubleshooting &gt; MakerBot Replicator &gt; Error Codes&#xA;ERROR 81&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10457" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-07-06T21:45:21.967" LastActivityDate="2018-07-06T21:45:21.967" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5788" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-04-10T05:35:41.457" Score="0" ViewCount="28" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a RAMPS 1.4 with Arduino Mega 2560 with 2 steppers connected to an external power supply using Polulo stepper drivers. The steppers are for X and Y axis movement. This external power supply is set to 12 volts and power is applied. I have configured the marlin firmware also.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I connect my setup to my PC using USB when the external power is also on? If i connect the USB while the external power is off, do the motors take power from USB? Will this will burn my board?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10423" LastActivityDate="2018-04-12T21:15:48.710" Title="Using ramps on-load" Tags="|ramps-1.4|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ClosedDate="2018-04-18T20:48:44.227" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5789" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5778" CreationDate="2018-04-10T05:36:41.167" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use a Anet A8 which has a system acceleration and jerk of 400 and 20 &#xA;When i slice with Cura, then I use a gcode without acceleration control, because the printer does this by its own and a combination with the gcode acceleration/jerk control gets me some strange behavior (e.g. sometimes some ultra slow movement in fine detail sections, or random nearly stopped movement) &#xA;But to get a realistic approximation for the print time, i enable the acceleration/jerk control in cura and then I get a really good result, that is really close to the real values.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And to be more specific to your question: It is e.g. 50mm/s &gt;&gt;maximum&amp;lt;&amp;lt; speed you can set, not a exactly and absolut speed.&#xA;If you know your printer you can also experiment with the following approach: Set the max speed really high, so that the max material volume per time is the limiting factor and set the acceleration and jerk as low as needed for good results. So that your printer will accelerate on long lines as long as it can up to the point it has to deaccelerate for the next corner. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9575" LastActivityDate="2018-04-10T05:36:41.167" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5790" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-04-10T14:44:26.957" Score="8" ViewCount="4590" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have the MK3 with a magnetic PEI, and some PETG residue is stuck on the surface. How can I remove it? Does acetone work?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10466" LastEditorUserId="36802" LastEditDate="2023-12-14T06:58:17.810" LastActivityDate="2023-12-14T06:58:17.810" Title="What's the best way to clean PETG residue from a magnetic steel sheet PEI?" Tags="|prusa-i3|maintenance|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5791" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-04-10T15:46:15.637" Score="2" ViewCount="994" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Monoprice Select Mini v2.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Bowden tube has detached from the filament feeder head... it was actually pushed out by the filament (175 PLA) as it fed.  It appears to have been held in place by a compression fitting inside the feeder head. I think the blue plastic collar provides the compression but I hesitate to attempt to remove it for fear of making matters worse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looking for advice on getting the Bowden tube and compression fitting back together without wrecking the feed&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10467" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-12-10T06:24:37.350" LastActivityDate="2019-12-10T06:24:37.350" Title="Monoprice Select Mini v2 reattach boden tube to feeder head" Tags="|ptfe-tube|monoprice-select-mini|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5792" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="599" CreationDate="2018-04-10T15:53:30.090" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I own a 5th gen printer and after teaching myself how to dismantle and clear the smart extruder of jammed filament I can attest to the machine working better than any other 3D printer I have used. I run the 3D printing section at Tampa Hakerspace and the MakerBot is much more reliable than the prusa or wanhao which we use at the space. I had problems with the machine initially but now it works like a champ&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10468" LastActivityDate="2018-04-10T15:53:30.090" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5793" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5790" CreationDate="2018-04-10T20:02:59.980" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;First you will want to verify that what you are seeing is remaining PETG and not a loss of PEI on your bed. In many cases, when PETG is used without a separating agent (window cleaner or glue stick), the PETG forms a stronger bond to the PEI than the PEI has to the bed. This causes the PEI to lift off the bed. You can often recognize this by seeing a spot of higher smoothness where the print was stuck rather than the more matte look elsewhere on the print bed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it is truly PETG left on the sheet, first try a firm use of a fingernail. If that does not work, you can attempt to use acetone or 1000 grit sandpaper (which also work to restore PEI). A careful use of a spatula can also be used to remove the material. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In subsequent prints of PETG, you will want to add a separator when printing PETG. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10471" LastActivityDate="2018-04-10T20:02:59.980" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5794" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5791" CreationDate="2018-04-11T08:19:55.480" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had a similar issue with my bowden feed system, those could be the reasons:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the pneumatic connector is not keeping the pressure on the pipe -&gt; replace&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the Teflon pipe is faded/worn -&gt; try to cut the end of the pipe&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the hotend/nozzle is clogged -&gt; clean/replace&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the pipe is excessively bent and gives a lot of resistance -&gt; that usualy needs pipe/tube replacement.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the nozzle temp is to low -&gt; increase printing temperature&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In some cases I had to cut the tube above the pneumatic connector and push it down to get it out as there was no way to  pull it back from the collar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9730" LastEditorUserId="9730" LastEditDate="2018-04-11T08:25:48.200" LastActivityDate="2018-04-11T08:25:48.200" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5795" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5805" CreationDate="2018-04-11T10:22:31.987" Score="3" ViewCount="791" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am planning to buy 4 hotends (e3d clones I assume), but I am wondering if &lt;strong&gt;the Bowden (long distance) be able to be used as Wade (direct extruder)?&lt;/strong&gt;. When the pneumatic fitting is removed there is a very similar filament drive to the throat/heat-brak and the collar size is same as wade.&#xA;As per attached pictures, I think that could be possible.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qJcny.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qJcny.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;front view&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XS7yz.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XS7yz.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;hotend&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9730" LastActivityDate="2018-04-12T22:33:20.343" Title="Can I use Bowden hotend instead of Wade for a direct extrusion?" Tags="|extruder|bowden|wade|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5796" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5974" CreationDate="2018-04-11T11:44:13.350" Score="7" ViewCount="3588" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Cartesian style 3D printer (FLSUN Cube), with two Z-axis stepper motors (1.8°, 200 steps/revolution) with T8x8 lead screw (8mm / 2mm pitch with 4 starts), and currently they are using 1/16 microstepping.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As I know, microstepping is an unstable state and can affect accuracy of the Z-axis. But many of modern 3D printers (like CR-10, Prusa i3 Mk2s and others) use similar microstepping for the Z-axis.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is it possible to use full steps? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Does it improve accuracy if I use compatible layer height (like 0.04mm, 0.08mm, 0.16mm, etc) for my printer with 0.04mm per full step on Z axis?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10479" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-07-09T06:19:12.037" LastActivityDate="2018-07-09T06:19:12.037" Title="Full steps mode for Z axis stepper controller" Tags="|z-axis|stepper|microstepping|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5798" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-04-11T16:56:42.127" Score="4" ViewCount="733" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm currently designing a RepRap 3D printer that will not have a heated bed. I have heard that it is possible to use a power brick with commercial printers lacking heatbeds. Is this possible with a RepRap printer using a RAMPS board?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm referring specifically to the TronXY X1 power brick. I was wondering if it we're possible to use the same TronXY X1 power brick with a standard RAMPS 1.4 board - rather than the special board the TronXY X1 uses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7019" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2018-07-08T14:49:04.763" LastActivityDate="2018-07-08T14:49:04.763" Title="Ramps 1.4 with a power brick" Tags="|ramps-1.4|arduino-mega-2650|tronxy-x1|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5799" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5798" CreationDate="2018-04-11T19:31:51.300" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As long as you provide enough energy to heat the nozzle and keep its temperature, that is possible, as steppers power usually is limited by driver to reduce noise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;see the attached video: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2lsx_rCCsQI&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;A fully mobile printer example here&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9730" LastActivityDate="2018-04-11T19:31:51.300" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5800" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-04-12T05:36:23.263" Score="3" ViewCount="1652" Body="&lt;p&gt;Note: I have extended my question as some of you mentioned that the question is not clear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am using a RAMPS 1.4 board with an Arduino mega 2560. I need to drive a stepper motor as an extruder using either E0 or E1. I am using Repetier-Firmware and can drive the extruder (stepper motor) using the E0 (RAMPS 1.4). &#xA;Now for my application, I need to make sure that the extruder is in home position before it starts to drive for the very first time. I am trying to use a  switch to connect to the end stop and perform this homing operation. I can do this for X, Y, and Z axes. I was wondering how (h/w connections and firmware modification) can I do it for the extruder?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10483" LastEditorUserId="10483" LastEditDate="2018-04-12T17:54:13.497" LastActivityDate="2020-05-03T08:07:50.373" Title="Homing a stepper motor as an extruder using E0/E1 with an limit switch and end stop" Tags="|extruder|ramps-1.4|firmware|repetier|endstop|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5801" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5800" CreationDate="2018-04-12T07:03:43.227" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The edited question&lt;/strong&gt; appears to mention that &lt;strong&gt;the actual extruders of the print head need to home / limit themselves&lt;/strong&gt;. The answer is that this is not required. When operating direct or Bowden driven extruder setups, you know (or you can measure or find out experimentally) the distance that the filament has to travel from extruder entry to hot end (e.g. to load new filament). If already loaded, because you have printed before, you also know where the filament is (filament could stop after printing, personally I retract the filament en few mm after a print). When a new print starts you usually reverse the retraction at temperature and extrude some extra filament to prime the nozzle to counteract oozed out filament for instance. At that point, the nozzle is primed and the gcode G92 E0 is then used to tell the extruder this is the start at zero length, sort of the home position of the filament. All this is usually done in the start code of your slicer, similar to  disabling bed and hot end temperature or final retract is done in the end code of your slicer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;This answer below addresses the initial question&lt;/strong&gt;, this question was not quite clear. It was &lt;strong&gt;phrased as of the head containing the extruders needed to be homed correctly&lt;/strong&gt;. The normal end-stops (can be mechanical or optical switches) already ensure that the printer head (containing the extruder or extruders) is homed correctly (if correctly configured in your printer firmware). The home offsets you define in the firmware define that you start at the origin (0,0,0). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your question does not state what firmware you use, but e.g. in Marlin firmware these settings are found in the &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/blob/1.1.x/Marlin/Configuration.h&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;firmware configuration file&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this file the following is defined:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;// Travel limits (mm) after homing, corresponding to endstop positions.&#xA;#define X_MIN_POS 0&#xA;#define Y_MIN_POS 0&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These values must be changed according to the offset between your switch and the origin of the heat bed (e.g. Prusa style printers have the origin at the front left).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For my Prusa clone printer I have defined:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;// Travel limits (mm) after homing, corresponding to endstop positions.&#xA;#define X_MIN_POS -35&#xA;#define Y_MIN_POS -12&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What this says is that the homing switch for the X axis is 35 mm left of the origin, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-04-13T15:01:14.820" LastActivityDate="2018-04-13T15:01:14.820" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5802" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6373" CreationDate="2018-04-12T17:56:16.760" Score="3" ViewCount="195" Body="&lt;p&gt;I noticed a knocking noise one day on my QIDI and things seemed fine at first glance, then 7 hours later my print only had 3 layers. So I figured it was a jam, and I cleaned it out but every now and then I heard the knock again which cause incomplete prints. When I went back to remove the front facing cooling fan I noticed one of the screws that go through the fan to the stepper motor wasn't secure. This was causing the filament guide to rock out of place periodically until it got worse and worse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've been trying for hours but the screw just won't &quot;catch&quot; on the stepper motor that feeds the filament into the extruder. The screws aren't stripped because I can take the motor off and screw them directly into it with no problem. It's as if they aren't long enough anymore or that they're bent. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has anyone else had this problem &amp;amp; found a solution that works consistently?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10021" LastActivityDate="2018-07-11T16:23:03.217" Title="QIDI x-one2 : Fan screws not holding filament feeder stepper motor in place" Tags="|extruder|motor|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5803" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5788" CreationDate="2018-04-12T21:15:48.710" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Can I connect my setup to my PC using USB when the external power is also on?&lt;/em&gt;&#xA;As long as you are connecting the external power to the correct pins, yes you can.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;If i connect the USB while the external power is off, do the motors take power from USB?&lt;/em&gt;&#xA;No, the motors need an external power supply.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10491" LastActivityDate="2018-04-12T21:15:48.710" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5804" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5806" CreationDate="2018-04-12T21:40:23.060" Score="4" ViewCount="225" Body="&lt;p&gt;I try to configure my 3D Printer properly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I printed this boat model &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2763854&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2763854&lt;/a&gt; (with a scaling of 0.6):The quality of the print looks nice but at the last roof the entire print slipped away. (e.g. no adhesion between bed and print)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are some printing configuration&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Printer: prusa i3&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Layer Height: 0.2mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Top/Bottom Tickness: 0.8&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Material: PLA&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bed adhesion: 10mm Brim&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Printing Temperature: 200°C&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bed Temperature: 60°C&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Travel Speed: 120mm/s&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Print Speed: 60mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Top/Bottom Line Width: 0.4mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4MECW.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4MECW.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XVi86.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XVi86.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7tO9T.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7tO9T.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this common that the print can slip away?&#xA;Is e.g. the raft bed adhesion  a better option?&#xA;I have read that glue could prevent the print to slip away. What kind of glue I should use?&#xA;Could a hotter/colder heating bed prevent the print to slip away?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks in advance&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit:&#xA;Added Pictures after extruder calibration (&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fb7lit5ZRq4&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fb7lit5ZRq4&lt;/a&gt;):&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DBlEn.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DBlEn.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/j79MO.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/j79MO.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10496" LastEditorUserId="10496" LastEditDate="2018-04-14T22:24:48.317" LastActivityDate="2018-04-14T22:24:48.317" Title="Print slipped away" Tags="|prusa-i3|heated-bed|adhesion|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5805" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5795" CreationDate="2018-04-12T22:33:20.343" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can use any of them, however the adaptor will be different to make it fit on your printer. I´m using the J-head on direct drive by removing the pneumatic connector; the distance from top to filament hole is close to 4mm, but does not affect the feeding. If the cylinder hasn't the pneumatic connector is possible to print a cap to mount the connector and make it remote drive&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4454" LastActivityDate="2018-04-12T22:33:20.343" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5806" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5804" CreationDate="2018-04-12T22:59:08.023" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If your printer is a genuine Prusa i3, MK2 or MK2.5, it will have a PEI bed which requires no additional adhesive for a model to remain properly attached during the print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The PEI should be cleaned with denatured alcohol prior to a print. If your bed has had many prints in one location, the PEI will lose adhesion. I've recently assisted a Prusa owner to change the PEI sheet which improved print adhesion greatly. The strange aspect of that is the problem was getting the print to release, not that it would not remain attached. The user now knows to move the print location around the bed and not always in the center.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In your case, all the parameters look good, although 60mm per second is rather fast, that should not have a big effect on adhesion. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Prusa printers have the ability to perform a live-z adjustment. The first layer being printed should have a slightly squished or squashed appearance. When you begin the print, use a skirt or brim to force the printer to outline the model. During that period, use the live-z adjustment to flatten the first layer, but use caution to not drive the nozzle into the print surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For testing purposes, consider to create a model of only 1 mm thick using the same settings. This will give you faster results on testing the live-z and getting a good bond to the bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I use 70°C for printing PLA, but the measured temperature on my glass bed is 60°C which leads me to believe that you have a good number. The printing temperature is reasonable too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;10mm brim is wide and further indicates that your adhesion may be related to first-layer nozzle height.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Post-photo edit: I can see in the image provided that the first layer has large air gaps. This is directly related to either the extrusion factor or the z-height. The remainder of the model looks too good to be extrusion factor, returning my first assessment of z-height problems as more likely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yet another edit:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As best as I can determine from your printer name, you do not have a genuine Prusa i3, but rather a Geeetech prusa clone i3. As such, many things are different. My suggestion about z-height is no longer valid, as the firmware is likely to be different for your printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not a cura user, but my quick research shows that it's probably called flow percentage. Other posts on the 'net suggest that below 100% would be underextrusion. I've &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fb7lit5ZRq4&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;found a video&lt;/a&gt; that shows how to make your extruder match the 100% flow setting in the software. It's smarter to have the firmware represent accurate figures and the video will allow you to perform this calibration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The z-height for your printer is related to print bed calibration. I was unable to locate anything useful to me with respect to that aspect of your printer. It appears that the bed has four leveling screws, although I'm not certain of that. If your bed leveling involves adjusting those screws, it is possible that all four (or three?) of them are too tight and have to be released a bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have bed calibration instructions, consider to perform them again, especially if you are going to adjust the extruder settings as per the previous video.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastEditorUserId="854" LastEditDate="2018-04-14T01:16:17.747" LastActivityDate="2018-04-14T01:16:17.747" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5807" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-04-13T05:11:06.943" Score="9" ViewCount="3103" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to be able to add custom commands/script to be executed during a print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example I would like to write some software to take a picture check the print hasn't moved off the bead between layers. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know if any of the available software/firmware allows custom scripts or calling back to the computer before continuing printing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am happy to build/buy a new printer if anyone knows a control board that has this sort of feature. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1476" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2023-12-07T18:35:27.760" LastActivityDate="2023-12-07T18:36:40.497" Title="Run custom code between G-code commands?" Tags="|g-code|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5809" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5807" CreationDate="2018-04-13T08:34:45.583" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;One of the solutions could be adding a layer change script (simplifi3d has that out of the  box) and then using marlin firmware you could set a value to digital pin that could triger external actions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://forum.simplify3d.com/viewtopic.php?t=1959&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Layer Change G-Code&lt;/a&gt;: I personally haven't had to use this, but I'm&#xA;  sure that there are some excellent reasons/ideas to use for this. If&#xA;  you'd like for a G-Code script to be inserted in-between each layer,&#xA;  than you can simply place it in this tab. One interesting use of this,&#xA;  is for the FlashForge Dreamer, to have the lights blink in between&#xA;  each layer, however that can be a bit too much at times! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The syntax for the M42 command is: M42 S(value to be written to pin) P (pin number) e.g. To set digital pin 30 high, you would use M42 S1 P30&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?146,168237,173098&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;The MARLIN firmware will&lt;/a&gt; not enable you to change the status / write&#xA;  values to any of the pins in use for things such as the heaters,&#xA;  thermistors, end stops etc. The command will let you send values other&#xA;  than 0 and 1 to any pins which can output analogue values. (0-255)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9730" LastActivityDate="2018-04-13T08:34:45.583" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5812" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5807" CreationDate="2018-04-13T11:01:19.103" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;A solution I use involves a 3D print server. I have defined shell scripts that address the GPIO ports of the Raspberry Pi that runs OctoPrint. OctoPrint is a 3D print server that can be accessed over your home network.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the &lt;a href=&quot;https://octoprint.org/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;OctoPrint homepage&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;OctoPrint is the snappy web interface for your 3D printer that allows&#xA;you to control and monitor all aspects of your printer and print jobs,&#xA;right from your browser.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This print server application allows for specification of custom G-code commands (linked to system commands/scripts for instance; note this is a plug-in called &amp;quot;GCODE Systems Commands&amp;quot;, see image below).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As an example, e.g. &lt;code&gt;OCTO100&lt;/code&gt; is scheduled to run &lt;code&gt;fan_on.sh&lt;/code&gt; shell script. This script in its turn drives a relay to switch the annoying extruder cooling fan that is always on when the printer is powered. These codes can then be used throughout your sliced file to do stuff you want (e.g. by using the TweakAtZ plugin of Cura). E.g. my extruder fan will stay on several minutes before it is scheduled off after a successful print through &lt;code&gt;OCTO110&lt;/code&gt; which in itself runs the script &lt;code&gt;fan_off.sh&lt;/code&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1CaMa.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1CaMa.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The scripts from the figure could be setup to schedule to do something, e.g. &lt;code&gt;fan_on.sh&lt;/code&gt; controls a relay using port 22 of the GPIO of the Raspberry PI:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#!/bin/bash&#xA;gpio export 22 out&#xA;gpio -g write 22 0&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So to disable the fan you would need &lt;code&gt;fan_off.sh&lt;/code&gt; to be:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#!/bin/bash&#xA;gpio export 22 out&#xA;gpio -g write 22 1&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2023-12-07T18:36:40.497" LastActivityDate="2023-12-07T18:36:40.497" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5813" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5800" CreationDate="2018-04-13T12:04:33.017" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think the question has already been answered(if at all possible because the question is still not clear exactly what you mean), but let me try putting this a different way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You have to ask yourself what is homing and why are you doing it. The purpose of homing your axes is to set their 0 position in space. This then means that any subsequent movements will be relative to these 0 positions and assuming the motors skip no steps should allow accurate positioning of the head inside the build volume throughout the print. In other words their relative position should match their absolute position. As has already been stated the extruder axis does not work like this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now I think some of the confusion from your question comes around what you mean by homing the extruder. The extruder position is defined by the previously mentioned X, Y and Z axis. The extruder axis however controls the position of the filament inside the hotend and therefore how much filament is extruded into the build volume. This axis is arbitrarily set to 0 using G92 at the beginning of the print because unlike the spacial axes the absolute position of this axis is not particularly important. Strictly speaking if you were to care about the extruder axis’ absolute position, home would probably be the start of the roll. This however is irrelevant. All that you care about during a print is that the extruder axis remains consistent throughout the print to allow accurate extrusion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So typically at the beginning of a print you will prime the nozzle to ensure plastic is ready to be extruded as ooze from the previous print may create a delay between moving the extruder axis and plastic actually being extruded. Once the nozzle is primed however the axis position will just be set to 0 and then all future positions of that axis will be relative to where it started on the roll.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hopefully that helps but if it doesn’t I think we still need more clarification of what you are actually trying to accomplish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9835" LastEditorUserId="9835" LastEditDate="2018-04-13T14:38:02.047" LastActivityDate="2018-04-13T14:38:02.047" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5814" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5807" CreationDate="2018-04-14T00:24:53.370" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I saw this 3 years ago, this is a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=33&amp;amp;v=L-_5KsAOVko&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;closed loop control&lt;/a&gt;, I think is better that taking a photo then analyze it with a kind of optical recognition software which needs some of possible failures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The video has also the link for the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youmagine.com/designs/dc-motor-closed-loop-control-software&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;additional resources&lt;/a&gt; the 3d printer will need according his author.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4454" LastActivityDate="2018-04-14T00:24:53.370" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5815" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-04-14T01:52:18.217" Score="7" ViewCount="2384" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just got a Monoprice Maker Select v2 off eBay for $200 and I'm very happy with it (so far). I'm learning a lot, but I've run into this problem that I cannot solve: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I put filament into the extruder (it's a direct drive extruder), it works well for a minute or two and then the extruder pushes it back out the entrance hole where it should be inserted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have no idea why it's doing this. The weird thing is when it's being pushed back out it curls up, maybe from being pushed back up and being hot? It is unclear to me why it curls. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I have tried:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Multiple brands of filament but nothing is working (I'm not sure what type of nozzle is on the Maker Select v2 but I have printed a Benchy once before this with no problems);&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Unclogging - I took the cold end off and nothing looks jammed in it;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pushed a guitar string through the hot end and no jams. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I cannot figure out why it's doing this. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10504" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-04-18T16:51:47.637" LastActivityDate="2018-08-17T11:00:34.887" Title="Filament being pushed back out the filament hole" Tags="|filament|extruder|hotend|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5816" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5815" CreationDate="2018-04-14T07:07:06.770" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Change the retraction distance, maybe you have a too long distance, that pushes the filament the whole way out. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9575" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-08-17T11:00:34.887" LastActivityDate="2018-08-17T11:00:34.887" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5817" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5825" CreationDate="2018-04-15T09:20:36.067" Score="3" ViewCount="311" Body="&lt;p&gt;My model looks like this, does anyone know what's going wrong?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1qAUd.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Bad print&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1qAUd.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Bad Print&quot; title=&quot;Bad print&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm thinking that if the small object looks like that, it's probably because of the slicer? And how about the bottom part of the cube... ummmm... I really don't know&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm using an M3D printer, its own slicer and PLA at 205°C&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Settings:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Layer thickness: 0.200 mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Extrusion width: 0.375 mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Filament flow: 100% --&amp;gt;98%&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Print speed: 30mm/s --&amp;gt;42 mm/s&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Retraction amount: 2 mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Retraction speed: 6 mm/s&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Minimal travel before retraction: 1 mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Retraction z-hop: 0.150 mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Update:&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The smaller object is using the same file but resized.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UYMBP.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Side&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UYMBP.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Side&quot; title=&quot;Side&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Kux1J.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Top&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Kux1J.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Top&quot; title=&quot;Top&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dTjoU.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Inside of left object&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dTjoU.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Inside of the left object&quot; title=&quot;Inside of left object&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/omdKQ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Side of large object&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/omdKQ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Side of large object&quot; title=&quot;Side of large object&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mAYlS.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;20x20x20 cube&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mAYlS.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;20x20x20 cube&quot; title=&quot;20x20x20 cube&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's the calibration cube. After I've changed the filament flow to 98%, it seems that the situation became better. But, it might also be the problem of the slicer as the two object isn't the same.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FT2RK.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Calibration Cube - Flow: 98%&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FT2RK.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Calibration cube - Flow: 98%&quot; title=&quot;Calibration Cube - Flow: 98%&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Update :&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are the settings&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UYm7u.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UYm7u.png&quot; alt=&quot;setting01&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/v3kKo.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/v3kKo.png&quot; alt=&quot;setting02&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/i0FJR.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/i0FJR.png&quot; alt=&quot;setting03&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7kt9t.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7kt9t.png&quot; alt=&quot;setting04&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3CJHH.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3CJHH.png&quot; alt=&quot;setting06&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZYK2K.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZYK2K.png&quot; alt=&quot;setting05&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;STL Files&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://files.fm/f/tnu9yyaj&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://files.fm/f/tnu9yyaj&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://files.fm/u/p5f7k6ya&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://files.fm/u/p5f7k6ya&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10511" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:29:41.667" LastActivityDate="2018-09-16T12:41:23.863" Title="Print quality problem with M3D FDM printer" Tags="|print-quality|3d-models|fdm|m3d|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5818" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3732" CreationDate="2018-04-15T14:56:12.593" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Nope, not in my version 2.4+&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Seems like something so useful and silly to have to get yet another program to make it work.  Like that is somehow faster?   I have no problem with slow.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can't believe it would be slower than hopping into another program, opening file, dividing file, saving stl file, then reloading into Cura again...  Cura slicing it would need to be awfully slow for that to be faster.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10513" LastActivityDate="2018-04-15T14:56:12.593" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5819" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-04-16T12:47:45.427" Score="2" ViewCount="466" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am on the way to building my own printer using 2020 profiles, TR8 * 500mm lead screw for the Z-axis. Still thinking if that will be a h-bot or coreXY, but this is another story.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As the printing table shall be mounted in a stable condition I am using this &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2834212&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Tevo TornadoCube transformation&lt;/a&gt; as a base for the Z-axis. The guys are using metal housing for the lead-screws, but I am wondering if I just print this housing, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:533675&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;lead screw mount&lt;/a&gt;, from thingiverse and add a 608 bearing - would that be acceptable?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Update:&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As per Oscar's comment, my bed will have a set of linear guides next to the lead screw, for stabilization.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2063609&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;This is also a nice solution for the Z-axis&lt;/a&gt;. In that case, I have same question: Can I print bearing housing and rely on it, or it is better to use metal ones?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9730" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:29:41.667" LastActivityDate="2019-08-31T07:59:51.290" Title="Lead screw holder - shall I buy metal or just use a printed one?" Tags="|printer-building|build-plate|lead-screw|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5820" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4049" CreationDate="2018-04-16T18:04:48.110" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://preciousplastic.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://preciousplastic.com/&lt;/a&gt; Is a fantastic project that promotes plastic recycling into useful objects. They offer free blueprints, videos on how to build the recycling equipment, and offer suggestions on what to make of your recycled goods.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally, I am looking into making garden bricks or paver stones. I have not found the ideal temperatures or heating methods just yet. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10529" LastActivityDate="2018-04-16T18:04:48.110" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5821" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5823" CreationDate="2018-04-17T03:03:47.340" Score="7" ViewCount="97" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am trying to 3D print some shells for a project, and would like them to be about 5&amp;nbsp;cm long. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I created the shells in Blender and converted them to &lt;code&gt;.stl&lt;/code&gt; files which the printer requires, but it tries to print them as 0.02&amp;nbsp;mm long. I am not printing them myself, so I have to rescale the files without access to the actual printer. I have tried scaling the object both in Blender, and when exporting them to &lt;code&gt;.stl&lt;/code&gt; files, but can't figure out how to tell what size the printer will interpret the shells as.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a way to make sure I have the objects scaled properly before printing them?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10534" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-04-18T18:14:36.717" LastActivityDate="2018-04-18T18:14:36.717" Title="Printing .stl file using ObJetPro 3D Printer" Tags="|software|scaling|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5822" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5887" CreationDate="2018-04-17T03:29:28.043" Score="9" ViewCount="3456" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are these vertical lines described as &quot;banding&quot;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would the most likely culprit be the extruder?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;FWIW, this was printed in &quot;vase mode&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0ZCPF.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;&amp;quot;Vase mode, PLA&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0ZCPF.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Vase mode, PLA&quot; title=&quot;&amp;quot;Vase mode, PLA&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10533" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-04-18T18:08:11.893" LastActivityDate="2018-04-27T13:29:58.533" Title="Is this banding?" Tags="|troubleshooting|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5823" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5821" CreationDate="2018-04-17T08:53:16.677" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;the best way is to install slicer on your pc and open the .stl file.&#xA;Most slicers will tell you the size of an object and there is an option to rescale resize.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using &lt;code&gt;Slic3r&lt;/code&gt; you will have object details in the corner&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3ygAy.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3ygAy.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using CURA you will have a detailed view in scale mode &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EYISK.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EYISK.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also you can use online services &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.viewstl.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;CLICK&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BjOAh.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BjOAh.png&quot; alt=&quot;an online service stl viewer&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9730" LastActivityDate="2018-04-17T08:53:16.677" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5824" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5822" CreationDate="2018-04-17T10:14:10.637" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Banding usually refers to Z banding and manifests itself in a wavy/non-straight wall in Z direction: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KYp55.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KYp55.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Z-banding&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This sort of banding is related to mechanical or design issues of the printer (lead screw (nuts), belts, play, etc.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your print, however, shows local thicker walls. It appears that these local thicker parts are related to the change in direction of the print head. A 3D printer does not print curved lines or arcs (although &lt;a href=&quot;http://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#G2_.26_G3:_Controlled_Arc_Move&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;G-codes do exist for arc movement&lt;/a&gt;), all movements are straight lines. So the cylinder consists of straight lines. By rendering the cylinder with more triangels you could increase the amount of straight lines to form a better approximation of the cylinder circumference. You could also try to lower the printing speed, but since you did not post any printing parameters that will be a guess.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2018-04-17T10:14:10.637" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5825" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5817" CreationDate="2018-04-17T11:27:40.597" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It appears that there are several issues with the prints. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;First layer too far from bed&lt;br&gt;&#xA;The picture showing the bottom of the print clearly shows the deposited lines and gaps in between the lines. Please re-level the bed to get the print nozzle closer to the bed (usually a sheet of paper should fit between nozzle and bed without too much friction when pulled). &lt;strong&gt;Edit after new information:&lt;/strong&gt; Your initial layer is definitely incorrect, a 0.4 (assuming you have a 0.4 nozzle) is too high, a rule of thumb is to not exceed about 75% of the nozzle diameter, so this should be max 0.3; this is a strong indication that your bed level is indeed to far from the nozzle. Also 1.5 mm line width for the first layer is way too high for correctly leveled bed to nozzle distance; this should be close to 0.4.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Too much flow&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Various pictures show zits and blobs that stick out of the print. The best solution is to calibrate your extruder. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Too high temperature possibly/too few cooling flow&lt;br&gt;&#xA;The deposited filament is not sharp, it looks like the filament it pretty fluid during the deposition. Please lower the temperature to 195 and or increase the part cooling flow.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Z banding or wobble&lt;br&gt;&#xA;The wavy walls show that the printer suffers from X-Y movement (eccentric movement) when the Z lead screws advance. This cannot be fixed easily as this involves the mechanics and the design of the printer. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To determine to improve the print quality you first should look at the bed leveling issue, second calibrate the extruder (see if you ask it to spit out 100 mm of filament it actually is 100 mm rather than randomly lowering the extrusion flow parameter) before you print some calibration cubes at reduced temperature and or increased part cooling flow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-04-19T17:38:40.953" LastActivityDate="2018-04-19T17:38:40.953" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5826" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3955" CreationDate="2018-04-17T21:53:53.910" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;One option is to hire a painter to paint the image onto the surface.&#xA;With a skilled painter, you could have a very photorealistic finish. Not sure if this would cost more or less than other routes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10546" LastActivityDate="2018-04-17T21:53:53.910" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5827" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-04-17T23:01:46.637" Score="4" ViewCount="604" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there software that can take a solid model, e.g. in STEP format, and generate gcode that includes arc/curve commands (G2, G3, G5) when possible?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10533" LastActivityDate="2018-04-19T07:01:02.440" Title="Software for 3d model to arc/curve gcode?" Tags="|g-code|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5829" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5830" CreationDate="2018-04-18T13:34:18.830" Score="6" ViewCount="225" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I wanted to take out the filament from the extruder, it didn't wanna come out, it was stuck (even when I heated up the nozzle). So I unscrewed the nozzle and it looks like the filament is all pressed together at the top of the nozzle (see picture). What does this mean? I am heaving issues extruding filament from the nozzle, the filament barely comes out and the extruder motor is clicking. Can someone help, please.&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KiRs1.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KiRs1.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10303" LastEditorUserId="10303" LastEditDate="2018-04-18T13:48:21.460" LastActivityDate="2018-04-18T14:14:20.163" Title="Why is my filament pressed together at the nozzle" Tags="|filament|nozzle|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5830" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5829" CreationDate="2018-04-18T14:14:20.163" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;As per attached picture I can see that the issue source could be:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;the ptf tube is not inserted to the end of heat-break, or it is not straight-cut at the end - &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K9InOVlQrro&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;see this video&lt;/a&gt; for help&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;the cooler on the hotend is not working properly/not installed and heat goes up to the throttle and melts the material&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;an object in the nozzle that blocks the flow (usually a ptf tube particle that probably melted) - clean/replace the nozzle&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9730" LastActivityDate="2018-04-18T14:14:20.163" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5831" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2018-04-18T18:20:41.717" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Increasing or reducing, one or more (usually all three) of a 3D model's dimensions in the X, Y and/or Z planes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4762" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-06-10T05:27:51.733" LastActivityDate="2018-06-10T05:27:51.733" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5832" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2018-04-18T18:20:41.717" Score="0" Body="Use for questions pertaining to the scaling of 3D designs prior to printing." OwnerUserId="4762" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-04-25T14:16:37.567" LastActivityDate="2018-04-25T14:16:37.567" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5835" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-04-19T03:18:03.183" Score="2" ViewCount="1292" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am trying to make stencils of Japanese Kanji characters with my 3D Printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am very new to Autodesk Fusion360 so I am running into some barriers: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I am having trouble sketching a rectangle and then a text character and extruding them separately. If I extrude one they both disappear. Therefore I have to sketch one, then extrude, then create the next sketch object. &#xA;How can I create both sketches and select different ones to extrude? &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I am having this basic problem where my stencil has parts that are disconnected (see example below). I've tried sketching lines and thin rectangles to connect the pieces but they both didn't work. I once again can't extrude after it's created. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I connect the pieces after extruding? How can I connect them inside a text object? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hLaBH.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Example Kanji Stencil&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hLaBH.png&quot; alt=&quot;Example Kanji Stencil&quot; title=&quot;Example Kanji Stencil&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10560" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-04-19T11:32:31.917" LastActivityDate="2018-04-20T14:15:43.013" Title="Connecting disconnected pieces in Fusion360 Stencil. Sketch entire model then extrude" Tags="|3d-models|3d-design|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5837" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5827" CreationDate="2018-04-19T07:01:02.440" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been looking at this also. But I can't find a STEP to GCODE software. So the answer to your question is no, not that I'm aware of.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using STL files, which are approximations of the actual model using triangular shapes, slicers will generate GCODE not including arc codes. I understand that either the printer controller should take care of creating the arc gcode by reading multiple lines in advance and calculate if certain consecutive &quot;straight gcodes&quot; could be replaced by &quot;arc gcodes&quot; or the generated gcode file needs to be pre-processed off-line by separate software, or post processing scripts of slicers. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With respect to reading multiple lines in advance, the 8-bit controller boards are not powerful enough to do all these extra calculations as the different firmwares already utilize the full potential of these boards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2018-04-19T07:01:02.440" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5839" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5055" CreationDate="2018-04-19T10:35:55.773" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you can access the stepper motors within the printers, then you should be able to obtain some basic measurements of its dimensions, in particular, the mounting holes. Then compare it with the dimensions of a NEMA 17 stepper motor:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mn386.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;NEMA 17 dimensions&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mn386.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;NEMA 17 dimensions&quot; title=&quot;NEMA 17 dimensions&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Image from &lt;a href=&quot;http://reprap.org/wiki/NEMA_17_Stepper_motor&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;RepRapWiki - NEMA 17 Stepper Motor&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The dimensions of other stepper motors, NEMA 11/14/17/23, can be found here: &lt;a href=&quot;http://reprap.org/wiki/NEMA_Motor&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;RepRapWiki - Nema Motor&lt;/a&gt;. The emphasis is mine:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Some (all?) NEMA 11 motors (is this specified in the standard?) have blind mounting holes about 4.5 mm deep, tapped to accept&#xA;  M2.5x0.45 metric bolts. &lt;strong&gt;The 4 mounting holes are in a square 23 mm&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;  (0.905 inch) center-to-center.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Some (all?) NEMA 14 motors (is this specified in the standard?) have blind mounting holes about ???? mm deep, tapped to accept M4&#xA;  metric bolts. &lt;strong&gt;The 4 mounting holes are in a square 26 mm&lt;/strong&gt; (1.024&#xA;  inch) center-to-center.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Some (all?) NEMA 17 motors (is this specified in the standard?) have blind mounting holes 4.5 mm deep, tapped to accept M3x.50 metric&#xA;  bolts. &lt;strong&gt;The 4 mounting holes are in a square 31.0 mm&lt;/strong&gt; (1.220 inch,&#xA;  about 7/32) center-to-center. The holes in the part that needs to be&#xA;  bolted to the NEMA 17 motor typically need to be reamed out with a&#xA;  1/8&quot; drill bit to allow the M3 bolt to pass through. The drive shaft&#xA;  is typically 5 mm dia.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Some (all?) NEMA 23 motors (is this specified in the standard?) have through mounting holes, a smooth 5 mm (0.2 inch) diameter. &lt;strong&gt;The&#xA;  4 mounting holes are in a square 47.1 mm&lt;/strong&gt; (1.856 inch, about 1+7/8&#xA;  inch) center-to-center. The drive shaft is typically 1/4 inch (6.35&#xA;  mm) dia.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, knowing whether the stepper is a NEMA 17 or not may not be sufficient as there are very many variations of the NEMA 17, w.r.t. manufacturer and model. Again, please refer to &lt;a href=&quot;http://reprap.org/wiki/NEMA_17_Stepper_motor&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;RepRapWiki - NEMA 17 Stepper Motor&lt;/a&gt; to see a list of some of the NEMA 17 steppers available, and in common use in 3D printing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The characteristics (Torque, Steps per revolution, Inductance Resistance, Voltage, Rated Current, etc.) vary greatly between models (&lt;em&gt;even&lt;/em&gt; with the same NEMA type - 11/14/17/23), and some are more suited for particular applications than others.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With respect to your &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/5055/nema-stepper-used-in-3d-printer/5839#comment7206_5058&quot;&gt;comment&lt;/a&gt;, why is NEMA 17 most common? Well, NEMA 23  steppers were used in some of the early [desktop-sized] printers, but then it was found that NEMA 17 steppers, which are smaller (leading to more compact, slightly less power hungry and lighter designs), offered less vibration whilst still providing &lt;em&gt;sufficient&lt;/em&gt; torque. Smaller steppers (NEMA 14) &lt;em&gt;can&lt;/em&gt; be used, but probably lack the torque to power a standard sized printer and can be only really used with very light-weight small printers. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;NEMA 23 steppers are still used in larger [industrial] scale printer designs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Again, from &lt;a href=&quot;http://reprap.org/wiki/NEMA_Motor&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;RepRapWiki - Nema Motor&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The first working RepRap used NEMA 23 Stepper motors for positioning and a different kind of motor for the extruder. As of 2013, most RepRap designs call for NEMA 17 Stepper motors or NEMA 14 Stepper motors for both positioning and extruding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4762" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-04-19T19:02:33.283" LastActivityDate="2018-04-19T19:02:33.283" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5840" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-04-19T15:13:05.347" Score="5" ViewCount="11551" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have the same problem as &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/groups/tevo-tarantula-owners/forums/general/topic:29448&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this person&lt;/a&gt; but I don't have those lines in my &lt;code&gt;RAMPS.h&lt;/code&gt; file.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've recently burnt my potentiometer on E0 so the motor isn't working properly anymore. I want to use it on E1 instead. If you have any better idea how to fix this instead of changing code in firmware, feel free to share.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10566" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2023-12-07T18:33:14.187" LastActivityDate="2023-12-07T18:33:14.187" Title="How to change E0 to E1 on Marlin 1.1?" Tags="|extruder|marlin|slic3r|tevo-tarantula|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5841" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5840" CreationDate="2018-04-19T15:23:37.303" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;the fastest way is to slice using two extruders and assign all print work to E1.&#xA;Set the head offsets to [0,0] and that shall do the job.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The harder is to edit pins file and do remapping.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9730" LastEditorUserId="9730" LastEditDate="2018-04-19T16:12:43.517" LastActivityDate="2018-04-19T16:12:43.517" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5843" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5835" CreationDate="2018-04-19T18:55:31.127" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As I see it, for a stencil you want the brown part with the white part(s) cut out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is easily doable. You can do this one sketch at a time, extrude it, and cut it out of the brown part.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To connect the inner brown parts to the rest of the brown, you'll need to cut a thin rectangle in the white character so that the inner brown pieces are connected to the outer brown pieces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9512" LastActivityDate="2018-04-19T18:55:31.127" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5844" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5840" CreationDate="2018-04-19T19:00:54.473" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Another &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/3925/how-to-switch-motor-outputs-and-use-e1-as-x-in-marlin-firmware/5786#5786&quot;&gt;posting&lt;/a&gt; already discusses how you can change the pins to use spare stepper controllers for broken controllers by changing the pin layout. Assuming you are using a RAMPS board and using &lt;a href=&quot;http://marlinfw.org/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Marlin firmware&lt;/a&gt;, you should look at the &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/blob/1.1.x/Marlin/pins_RAMPS.h&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;pins_RAMPS.h&lt;/a&gt; file.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This file requires changes to address E1 to E0 and vice versa, please edit the file so that:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#define E0_STEP_PIN        26&#xA;#define E0_DIR_PIN         28&#xA;#define E0_ENABLE_PIN      24&#xA;#define E0_CS_PIN          42&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;is changed to:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#define E0_STEP_PIN        36&#xA;#define E0_DIR_PIN         34&#xA;#define E0_ENABLE_PIN      30&#xA;#define E0_CS_PIN          44&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and also change:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#define E1_STEP_PIN        36&#xA;#define E1_DIR_PIN         34&#xA;#define E1_ENABLE_PIN      30&#xA;#define E1_CS_PIN          44&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;to:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#define E1_STEP_PIN        26&#xA;#define E1_DIR_PIN         28&#xA;#define E1_ENABLE_PIN      24&#xA;#define E1_CS_PIN          42&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the file is changed an saved, &lt;a href=&quot;http://marlinfw.org/docs/basics/install.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;build and upload&lt;/a&gt; code to your board and plug the connector of the E0 stepper into the E1 header.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2018-04-19T19:00:54.473" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5846" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5835" CreationDate="2018-04-20T05:13:18.340" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;To answer your question about the disappearing sketch check out this answer: &lt;a href=&quot;https://forums.autodesk.com/t5/fusion-360-design-validate/sketch-disappears-after-creating-body/td-p/5965216&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;forums.autodesk.com - sketch disappears after creating body&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The default behavior in fusion is that sketches are hidden after the first time they are used in an operation such as an extrude. You can just unhide the sketch by expanding the sketches group in the tree and clicking the light bulb. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5938" LastActivityDate="2018-04-20T05:13:18.340" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5848" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5849" CreationDate="2018-04-20T08:25:09.537" Score="7" ViewCount="849" Body="&lt;p&gt;When trying to upload firmware I get the following errors:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;code&gt;timeout - cannot sync&lt;/code&gt;, or&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;code&gt;port is in use&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What can be the possible sources of these errors?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9730" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-04-20T08:46:02.380" LastActivityDate="2018-04-20T09:06:22.030" Title="How to upload firmware to reprap printer?" Tags="|firmware|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5849" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5848" CreationDate="2018-04-20T08:25:09.537" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are mainly three reasons for that:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Arduino studio settings should be: &#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Board: Mega 2560 and&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Programmer: AVR ISP &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;and valid COM port&lt;/strong&gt;, please see below:&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/C8Xe3.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/C8Xe3.png&quot; alt=&quot;Arduino settings&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol start=&quot;2&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Please close all slicer's instances (Cura, Slic3r, Repetiter)  and host servers and other software that communicate with the printer as they lock the COM port;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Please check that the appropriate usb2serial drivers are installed and working - the best way is to start the serial monitor from the Arduino Studio Tools menu and see if there are any. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9730" LastEditorUserId="9730" LastEditDate="2018-04-20T09:06:22.030" LastActivityDate="2018-04-20T09:06:22.030" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5850" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5851" CreationDate="2018-04-20T09:18:40.610" Score="7" ViewCount="584" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 15x15 cm heating resistor from my current printer (printing area: 12x12 cm).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would like to switch to a glass bed and to rework my printer to increase the printing area to 20 cm (22x22 cm glass plate).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would it be possible to use the old heating resistor placed only in the centre? this way I would have a smaller heated bed for ABS and a bigger one for PLA.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would the glass crack due to non uniform heating? This is because glass has a conductivity of less than 5 W/mK, therefore the hot area will stay hot and basically never really spread the heat to the surrounding area. So the frame will be cold and the center hot, causing stresses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Related: &lt;a href=&quot;https://engineering.stackexchange.com/questions/31842/how-much-an-unevenly-heated-glass-plate-bows&quot;&gt;https://engineering.stackexchange.com/questions/31842/how-much-an-unevenly-heated-glass-plate-bows&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2338" LastEditorUserId="2338" LastEditDate="2019-11-07T14:28:32.133" LastActivityDate="2019-11-07T14:28:32.133" Title="Can I have a glass bed with only the center heated?" Tags="|heated-bed|glass-bed|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5851" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5850" CreationDate="2018-04-20T09:29:50.793" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The glass will be taking up the heat to slowly cover its full area.&#xA;That means two things:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;it will not crack as there is no thermal shock&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;it will put more pressure on the heater as there will be bigger heat absorption, so in an edge case, you could end-up with not getting a required temperature on the glass surface and/or the heating process will be very slow.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In that case, I personally will try that out and then if I have an issue with getting proper temperature, then I will buy a new heater.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A comment regarding heat expansion:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;my glass is about 20mm longer than the bed and it is warm during the printing process. The 'breaking' stress is connected with temperature shock (an immediate temp change), not a relatively slow heating process. However, borosilicate glass also known as Pyrex (TM) expands very little. Much less than most metals. This is why it doesn't break when exposed to sudden hot and cold changes. So in short words - check tea lighter under your tea-pot and see how te heat is comming out from the centre&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://glassproperties.com/expansion/ExpansionMeasurement.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;source&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9730" LastEditorUserId="9730" LastEditDate="2018-04-20T10:17:53.060" LastActivityDate="2018-04-20T10:17:53.060" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5852" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5835" CreationDate="2018-04-20T14:15:43.013" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;May I suggest an alternative?  Create your characters in a document editor (such as Word or OpenOffice), using a very large font size.  Save the characters to an image file.  Go to one of many converter sites, such as &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.embossify.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;embossify&lt;/a&gt;  or &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.sculpteo.com/en/workshops/create/text/?uuid=QTy21E63tHOjsSDR8WDdZd&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;sculpteo&lt;/a&gt;, and let them make a 3-D model of your character.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2191" LastActivityDate="2018-04-20T14:15:43.013" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5853" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5850" CreationDate="2018-04-20T21:10:06.977" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're using borosilicate glass (aka pyrex) then it won't crack. You can get squares of ~20x20 cheaply off aliexpress.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're using window glass, picture frame class etc then you might have issues with cracking, it will depend on lots of factors like the wattage of your heater and the temperature of the room.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your biggest problem will be that the bed heats very non-uniformly, which is unlike to give good print adhesion. I'd suggest a sheet of aluminium underneath the glass if possible, it will allow much more even heating. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10575" LastActivityDate="2018-04-20T21:10:06.977" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5854" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5819" CreationDate="2018-04-21T07:42:36.137" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Update:&lt;/em&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;To answer your question, you could use either metal ones or printed ones. Metal housings are way more heavy that printed parts. The housing you refer to is not attached to the platform, but a static part connected to the frame. Weight is not an issue, stiffnes, strength and temperature stability should be of higher importance. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For metal housings attached to the Z platform weight may be an issue (if have many microsteps where the incremental torque may not be enough to raise the Z platform). Printed parts can be made stiff enough to house the linear bearings. In my experience printed bearing housings can be just as effective, I use those on my platform for my CoreXY printer as well as using leadscrew and linear guide rails brackets made of printed parts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Old answer, before question update:&lt;/em&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;With platform movement (or printer head Z movement for Prusa designs) you face a few challenges related to the quality of the parts you buy. Note you want smooth operation of the platform (or head) without wobbling. It is customary to add linear rods or rails to guide the platform up and down, this is their sole purpose, therefore these rods need to be very straight and bought from a local trustworthy vendor (the Eastern oversea specimens are usually of less quality as I know from experience). Securing these linear guide rods could be done with printed parts, the plastic is stiff enough to hold the rods in place, and temperatures are usually not that high to play a large role (if so like in boxed up printers, print in high temperature resistance material), personally I use black PETG. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Secondly, the drive of the platform. Note that leadscrews are not perfectly round, nor is the coupling 100% in the center of the screw. From a mechanics point of view you should never constrain the leadscrews at both ends. This results in an over-constrained (indeterminate) system (of forces) that can induce even more problems. Optimally you fix one end close to the stepper, or the drive of the belt), it is arbitrary whether you use a metal or a plastic part for that unless there are constrains on size and thickness for a requested rigidity and leave the opposite side free. For Prusa clones I use lifting parts that house the lead screw nut rather than embedding the nut in the x-y idler coupler (this separates eccentric x-y movement from z movement and a handy advantage is that if something goes wrong in z min direction, the head will not destroy the glass or bed as it is not fixed to the lead screws). Something similar can be done for your platform. For my CoreXY however, I have not done so, it uses 4 linear rails of 12 mm and 2 leadscrews. PETG stepper mounts at the bottom drive the leadscrews using plum, not spring, couplers (the springy types should be avoided or a (&quot;fixate-able&quot;) bearing or KFL08 mount should be placed at the other side of the driven side of the coupler and correctly mounted to the frame). Furthermore, I use Delrin or POM anti backlash nuts on a mount connected to the platform. All tall prints I make are perfectly straight, no wavy or wobbly vertical walls.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-09-29T12:05:55.573" LastActivityDate="2018-09-29T12:05:55.573" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5855" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5850" CreationDate="2018-04-21T08:31:11.573" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I purchased some very, very cheap thin glass from walmart (or home depot, cant remember for sure). Probably the thinnest kind available. Went through dozens of prints heating it up to 85C only at the center and never experienced issues with cracking. Personally I believe you’ll be fine. I can look for specifics if you need them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9766" LastActivityDate="2018-04-21T08:31:11.573" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5856" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6636" CreationDate="2018-04-21T12:31:20.670" Score="2" ViewCount="1067" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently bought the MGN12H linear guide and rail from robotdigg, which is supposed to be the copy of the Hiwin.&#xA;I have noticed that the motion is very smooth when moving fast, but if I move it very slowly, it gets stuck and the motion is not smooth at all. I think this will cause problems on my prints once I assamble the printer.&#xA;Am I missing something? Should I put some king of oil on the balls?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10430" LastActivityDate="2018-08-12T09:43:11.577" Title="Robotdigg linear guide not smooth motion" Tags="|diy-3d-printer|linear-motion|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5857" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5858" CreationDate="2018-04-21T18:01:35.723" Score="7" ViewCount="37208" Body="&lt;p&gt;How does Z offset (&lt;code&gt;M851&lt;/code&gt;) work with an auto leveling sensor? Does it add the Z offset to the offset of the &lt;code&gt;G29&lt;/code&gt; mesh? or the &lt;code&gt;G29&lt;/code&gt; value replaces the &lt;code&gt;M851&lt;/code&gt;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My printer is an Anet A8 with Marlin firmware, I was having issues with the autoleveling sensor and reset the Z offset to 0 and let &lt;code&gt;G29&lt;/code&gt; get the mesh offsets and its working good now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was looking through Marlin G-code page but couldn't figure out how &lt;code&gt;G29&lt;/code&gt; affects &lt;code&gt;M851&lt;/code&gt; or vice-versa.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My setup with level issues:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;M851 Z0&#xA;G28 &#xA;M211 S0 ;turned endstops off and got a paper to find the zoffset&#xA;M851 Z-0.59&#xA;M500&#xA;M211 S1&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And &lt;code&gt;G29&lt;/code&gt; before printing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9988" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-11-15T20:28:10.733" LastActivityDate="2021-06-21T08:55:20.080" Title="Z Offset on autoleveling sensor setup" Tags="|bed-leveling|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5858" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5857" CreationDate="2018-04-21T20:06:21.630" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;code&gt;G28&lt;/code&gt; instructs the printer to home itself to the X an Y endstops and the Z sensor determines the homing of the Z axis; i.e. when the sensor triggers, this is not necessarily (and most commonly) not the position where the nozzle is at Z=0.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;code&gt;G29&lt;/code&gt; determines the shape of the bed by probing the bed. This will set the shape of the bed with respect to the sensor trigger point as described earlier. The Z-offset (set by &lt;code&gt;M851 Z-x.xx&lt;/code&gt; is needed to set the offset between the nozzle and the sensor trigger point (to the bed).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The sequence to determine the offset is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;M851 Z0; // Set the Z offset to zero height&#xA;G28;     // Home Z in the middle of the bed&#xA;G1 Z0;   // This will move the head to zero height;&#xA;M211 S0; // This will disable the end stops so that you &#xA;         // will be able to proceed lower than Z=0&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now adjust Z height to fit a piece of paper and note the negative Z height (either through the LCD or through an application or &lt;a href=&quot;/q/10573&quot;&gt;console/terminal&lt;/a&gt; over USB)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Please remember, that a sensor doesn't level your bed, is compensates for the shape, the user should always tram (level) the bed as good as possible with respect to the nozzle print head movement plane! This implies that the user should tram the complete bed as good as the skills allow, all corners, like you would do with a normal Z endstop switch.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;M851 Z-1.23; // Define the Z offset&#xA;M500;        // Store the settings&#xA;M211 S1;     // Enable the end stops again&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please note that -1.23 is a fictive value that should be replaced by your own value.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To explicitly answer the raised question, the &lt;code&gt;G29&lt;/code&gt; probes the bed by scanning the surface geometry and the &lt;code&gt;M851&lt;/code&gt; adds an offset for the sensor trigger to the nozzle (at the center). The offset is required to let the firmware know where the nozzle is with respect to the trigger point. The offset therefor lowers the scanned &lt;code&gt;G29&lt;/code&gt; surface, no replacement is taking place. The sketches below illustrate this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wdto7.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;BLTouch or 3DTouch sensor Z-offset definition&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wdto7.png&quot; alt=&quot;BLTouch or 3DTouch sensor Z-offset definition&quot; title=&quot;BLTouch or 3DTouch sensor Z-offset definition&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2sGwU.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Inductive/capacitive proximity sensor Z-offset definition&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2sGwU.png&quot; alt=&quot;Inductive/capacitive proximity sensor Z-offset definition&quot; title=&quot;Inductive/capacitive proximity sensor Z-offset definition&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;note that the bottom line of the &amp;quot;M851 Z offset&amp;quot; denotes the &lt;code&gt;G29&lt;/code&gt; scanned surface&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-06-21T08:55:20.080" LastActivityDate="2021-06-21T08:55:20.080" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5859" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5860" CreationDate="2018-04-22T18:45:17.527" Score="4" ViewCount="1078" Body="&lt;p&gt;The light of the build area of a DLP UV printer isn't evenly spread. The source of light is a 9 LED UV array. The light mainly falls of to the sides. This results in objects curing too much in the center, or not enough on the outer sides of the build area. One can compensate for this, making the LCD build area have a homogeneous intensity of light, using a mask. But it needs to be specifically created for each physically unique printer. Having a homogeneous illuminated build area results in better quality prints.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I create such an mask accurately for a UV 3D resin printer that uses DLP technique, like for example for a Wanhao Duplicator D7?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10590" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2018-09-16T12:39:58.123" LastActivityDate="2018-09-16T12:39:58.123" Title="How to create an accurate mask for a UV 3D resin DLP printer" Tags="|print-quality|dlp|uv-printer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5860" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5859" CreationDate="2018-04-22T18:49:12.440" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've created software to do just that. See the project on Github: &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/Devoney/CreateMask&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;CreateMask&lt;/a&gt;. It has a &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/Devoney/CreateMask/wiki/3.-How-to-create-the-mask&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;wiki page&lt;/a&gt; that explains what to do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To summarize: you measure the LCD build area using a multi-meter and a light dependent resistor. You do this with low and high intensity masks. You feed the numbers in CSV files to the software, and the software will generate a mask for you by polynomial curve fitting. &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/Devoney/CreateMask/wiki/2.-How-it-works&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;See this page that explains in detail how the mask is created&lt;/a&gt;, if you are interested.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/Devoney/CreateMask/releases&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;download a release here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10590" LastEditorUserId="10590" LastEditDate="2018-05-08T18:26:40.587" LastActivityDate="2018-05-08T18:26:40.587" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5862" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-04-23T13:09:52.727" Score="5" ViewCount="4160" Body="&lt;p&gt;Please, how do I compute the surface &amp;amp; volume of a large amount of &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/STL_(file_format)&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;STL files&lt;/a&gt; ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have &lt;strong&gt;over 3000 STL files&lt;/strong&gt;, and I want to know their respective &lt;strong&gt;volumes and surfaces&lt;/strong&gt;. I will use this data to be able to identify the biggest part, the one with the biggest surface, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found that the fine &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/admesh/admesh/releases&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Admesh Github&amp;#39; page&quot;&gt;Admesh&lt;/a&gt; (included in openscad, as far as I know) software that can compute the volume via command-line (powershell) and with some text editing I can get the volumes for all of these parts (needing some patience), but I didn't find any similar tool for the surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The best tool would output such thing as:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;code&gt;input.stl - 75.554mm2 - 45.547mm3&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure this post is adequate in here, but anyway, thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4183" LastEditorUserId="4183" LastEditDate="2018-05-11T12:46:49.337" LastActivityDate="2018-08-11T00:13:01.090" Title="How do I compute the surface &amp; volume of a large amount of STL files?" Tags="|3d-models|3d-design|software|cad|stl|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5863" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5864" CreationDate="2018-04-23T18:33:31.267" Score="5" ViewCount="130" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have the Monoprice Select 3D Printer (i3 clone). I'm trying to print ABS. I set the temperature to 230°C for the extruder and 110°C for the bed. I can see the printer warming up to those temperatures and then when it gets there the bed and extruder set temperatures reset to 0, and the print does not start.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I pulled the ABS out and went back to PLA and printed a part without any issues. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any thoughts on what the issue might be?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10599" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-04-28T21:36:05.707" LastActivityDate="2018-04-28T21:36:05.707" Title="Monoprice i3 clone heat shuts off printing abs" Tags="|extruder|heated-bed|abs|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5864" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5863" CreationDate="2018-04-23T19:48:44.477" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;this could be connected to a thermal shutdown protection.&#xA;Most firmwares requires a decent increase in temperature every few seconds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;if you use Marlin then in the source code you can extend thermal shutdown timings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;what to check:&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;check every single connector to eliminate any fiddling or play - risk of fire !!!&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;if any of wires goes hot - double check connections, replace wires/connectors&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;note temperature change (how many seconds/degree) on the hotbead&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;then increase voltage on psu (probably you have a led psu - so there is a small regulator next to the connectors)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;validate if that help&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9730" LastActivityDate="2018-04-23T19:48:44.477" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5865" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5867" CreationDate="2018-04-24T02:51:26.850" Score="5" ViewCount="4103" Body="&lt;p&gt;On nearly all of my prints, my first few layers are flared out slightly. I'm using painter's tape for the bed, and the bed temperature is at 60&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C while the extruder is at 205&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C. This seems to happen regardless of print quality settings. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's one example below:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dNQVy.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dNQVy.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That extruded rectangle shape is 19.50&amp;nbsp;x&amp;nbsp;19.30&amp;nbsp;mm on the outside on the straight part. On the flared part, it measures 19.92&amp;nbsp;x&amp;nbsp;19.70&amp;nbsp;mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a way to fix this? If so, how can I improve it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10068" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-01-09T10:59:53.053" LastActivityDate="2019-01-09T10:59:53.053" Title="How can I stop the flare out of the bottom layers?" Tags="|prusa-i3|pla|print-quality|anet-a8|simplify3d|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5866" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5880" CreationDate="2018-04-24T05:03:01.530" Score="8" ViewCount="4533" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just bought a FLSUN QQ and the instructions say I need to change the voltage from 220 to 110. Sadly the instructions don't say how to do that. Can anyone tell me how to do it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10422" LastEditorUserId="4927" LastEditDate="2018-09-05T10:57:30.927" LastActivityDate="2020-07-09T22:23:20.807" Title="How to change the voltage on a FLSUN QQ" Tags="|delta|flsun-qq|power-supply|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5867" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5865" CreationDate="2018-04-24T06:45:42.333" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The picture is not very clear so this can be related to either:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Overextrusion at the bottom layer (slicer setting) or an incorrect bed leveling (bed to nozzle distance too small), or&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;this could be the effect called &quot;elephant foot&quot; that is primarily caused by printers with a heated bed. This issue is related to unbalanced printing parameters: heat bed temperature (too high) in combination with insufficient part cooling.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The general remedy for these problems is to level the bed (e.g. nozzle can be too close to the bed). &quot;Elephant foot&quot; can be reduced by reducing the heat bed temperature, re-positioning the cooling nozzle and/or start cooling at a lower height. Please experiment with the print parameters by printing XYZ 20 mm test cubes till you find the correct settings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-04-24T13:44:06.047" LastActivityDate="2018-04-24T13:44:06.047" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5868" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5900" CreationDate="2018-04-24T16:40:29.547" Score="4" ViewCount="1311" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not asking for a product recommendation, unless there's only one product out there like this...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a need for a flexible filament that retains its deformation, kind of like silly putty. Are there any filaments out there that, after you bend or stretch them, they keep their shape?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm sure to some degree flexible filaments do this -- Which filament might be best? Commenters -- what's the scientific term for this? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Actually, metals exhibit this type of flexibility. Do any of the 3D printable metal filaments flex, bend, and keep their shape?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10369" LastActivityDate="2018-06-15T01:10:36.087" Title="Any family of plastics / filaments that bend and keep their shape?" Tags="|fdm|print-material|lulzbot|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5869" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5872" CreationDate="2018-04-24T18:25:08.703" Score="12" ViewCount="1761" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I bought a Lulzbot Mini a couple months ago and finally downloaded Ultimaker's version of Cura... Boy... have I been missing out...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One feature Ultimaker Cura implemented that I've been looking for is a &quot;pause at z-height&quot; feature (&quot;post-processing tool&quot;). I'm building prototypes of an electronics device, and creating two pieces that snap together looks a lot worse than printing a single piece. If I could pause my print, insert my electronics, and continue printing, my device would look a lot more professional (even if it took longer to make).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My one concern is the lithium ion battery. Right now I'm printing in TPU. With a heated bed of 40 degrees Celsius, and a heated extruder at 240 degrees Celsius, there seems to be a significant risk that the lithium ion battery reaches a temperature above 60 degrees Celsius (damaging the cell, causing a potential explosion). Granted, I am not sure what &quot;60 degrees Celsius&quot; actually means. It could mean only one part of the packaging needs to reach this temperature, or it could mean the entire LiPo's internal temperature would need to reach this. In either case, the numbers don't look good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other hand, the heated bed surely doesn't need to remain heated beyond the first few layers? Additionally, I can create a &quot;roof&quot; for the LiIon battery that I can slip it under, providing some insulative TPU before the rest of the device. I think the print would happen safely like this, but obviously, an explosion would be really really bad. Like it would probably burn my house down, and I would be asleep when it happened.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Does anyone have any experience doing this?&#xA;Is there a way to turn off the heated bed mid-print? I guess I can insert a g-code line during the pause? Will this affect the remainder of the print you think?&#xA;Am I being paranoid? Can the extruder actually pass heat through a 1–2 mm of insulation and cause an explosion?&#xA;Anyone know how heat travels from the initial, liquid print material through the rest of the structure?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any more advice or things I should consider before pursuing this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A more specific pause type might be helpful, if anyone knows of any.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10369" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2019-08-31T08:52:53.080" LastActivityDate="2019-08-31T08:52:53.080" Title="Danger in 3D printing over a lithium ion battery" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|lulzbot|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5870" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5869" CreationDate="2018-04-24T20:09:53.927" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would have to see your design to comment more but why not just change your model with the lid or top that can be either fused on later or attached in some other fashion? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is possible to turn off the heated bed after a certain layer. It looks like there is a discussion here with the G-code: &lt;a href=&quot;https://forum.lulzbot.com/viewtopic.php?t=2061&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Can Cura Turn Off a Heated Bed Partway Into a Print?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would personally avoid exposing the battery to the heat generated by the hotend or the build plate. Printers alone can burn your house down. Why combine it with the awesome power of a lithium ion battery?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10606" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-07-30T16:04:54.823" LastActivityDate="2018-07-30T16:04:54.823" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5872" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5869" CreationDate="2018-04-25T08:12:49.933" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is an option to directly insert extra commands at a specific Z height, no need to enter them manually.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, it is a bad idea to turn off the heated bed while printing, because this will often detach the object from the bed completely (that's kind of the point of having the heated bed in the first place: better adhesion while printing, and easier removal afterwards).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wouldn't print over a battery to enclose it, not just because it is likely to damage the battery, but also to keep the battery exchangeable. Enclosing the rest of the design in a case is possible, but normally it is easier to print two separate parts that can be screwed together through a hole in the PCB.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, experience: it's not worth it usually.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10616" LastActivityDate="2018-04-25T08:12:49.933" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5873" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5869" CreationDate="2018-04-25T10:39:29.703" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If your heatbed is at 40°C, and it's not dangerous until 60°C, I wouldn't worry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The heatbed is what heats up the printed object, not the print head.&#xA;It will obviously heat it up a tiny bit in a small local area when printing, but the heat dissipates rapidly, only affecting the temperature of the object very little.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're worried, try getting a laser thermometer, and monitor the surface temperature of the battery during a test print.&#xA;They're like $10, so it's not a big investment to try it out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternately, maybe you can do a test print with a stand-in for the battery, and embed a temperature probe in the stand-in, and monitor the temperature real-time while printing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1472" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-05-23T15:53:40.390" LastActivityDate="2018-05-23T15:53:40.390" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5874" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-04-25T18:16:37.863" Score="5" ViewCount="142" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm thinking about building my own 3D printer/Laser Engraver/CNC. Since all use a standard Cartesian axis I wanted to be able to swap out tool heads depending on the purpose. I have everything thought out except the coding aspect of the project.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I currently own a 3D printer and am familiar with some of the coding aspects, gcode, stepper motor moment, axis zeroing, etc; but if I am to build a 3 axis system how do you go about coding it? Are there programs that automatically calibrate all the motors? Can I take existing 3D printer programs and adjust the stepper motor values and build plate area? or do I have to code a new printing program from scratch that can read gcode? For simplicity lets just talk about the printing aspect of the build as I realize that CNC's and laser engravers work on different vector systems. Thanks :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10620" LastActivityDate="2018-04-26T08:04:29.900" Title="How do you program a 3D printer?" Tags="|3d-models|g-code|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5875" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5874" CreationDate="2018-04-25T19:00:52.083" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The foundation of any 3D printer is the controller and the firmware. Many devices are based on Arduino type controllers, with stepper motor driver boards either integrated or added as a plug-in component.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some manufacturers will use in-house or outside resources and develop their own boards and firmware.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can search for 3D printer controllers and get a pretty comprehensive list of the various devices available for purchase.  Smoothieboard is one device, Raspberry Pi and Arduino as noted above, and others.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There can be found varying &quot;flavors&quot; of firmware to load onto these controllers as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The field is exhaustive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To address your focus regarding the printing aspect, that's one stepper motor per print head/nozzle (usually) and involves calibrating the amount of filament dispensed from the nozzle per unit steps, or more easily understood, amount of steps per unit of filament movement. My stepper motor for the extruder has a planetary gear and moves 100 mm of filament for about 5000 steps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All of the parameters you've noted are integrated with the firmware. Motor calibration requires movement per step or steps per millimeter to be entered, unless you purchase a turnkey system with the values loaded.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can adjust many of the parameters from the slicing software, but it's more practical to determine the calibration settings, enter that information into your slicer and proceed with model management.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Look into instructables for others' build projects to see what they've accomplished and the steps involved in such a build. This can give you a starting point for your efforts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastActivityDate="2018-04-25T19:00:52.083" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5876" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-04-25T20:56:10.340" Score="5" ViewCount="167" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a very dense point cloud (billions of points) of the exterior of a building obtained by laser scanning it with a Leica head.&#xA;I successfully subsampled it down to around 500,000 and I'm trying to print the building by first creating a mesh.&#xA;I tried using CloudCompare, Meshlab and PDAL, using Poisson surface reconstruction.&#xA;However, the resulting mesh is full of holes, mainly in the roofs which have the lowest point density, and I cannot print it.&#xA;Is there any algorithm which could use the fact that the point cloud is precisely the exterior part of a geometric thing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10622" LastActivityDate="2018-06-05T09:10:42.583" Title="Printing a building from its laser scanned exterior point cloud" Tags="|3d-models|software|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5877" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-04-26T00:11:19.317" Score="1" ViewCount="2291" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was working on a model today and I need to make the black surface into a normal surface so that the ship's cockpit is solid. I am unable to select the black surface. I tried using the flip normals feature, but I was still unable to select it. Any advice on how to make it into a solid is greatly appreciated. Thanks. :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: Here's the link to the file&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://drive.google.com/file/d/1mbTdeeZqhNJx-WlXNqF8mD8QYDSI3Vh_/view?usp=sharing&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://drive.google.com/file/d/1mbTdeeZqhNJx-WlXNqF8mD8QYDSI3Vh_/view?usp=sharing&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bInCO.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bInCO.png&quot; alt=&quot;The weired surface in meshmixer&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6883" LastEditorUserId="6883" LastEditDate="2018-04-26T04:20:58.297" LastActivityDate="2018-09-23T16:00:57.870" Title="Black surface in Meshmixer" Tags="|3d-models|3d-design|stl|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5878" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5881" CreationDate="2018-04-26T00:15:37.847" Score="4" ViewCount="449" Body="&lt;p&gt;I made my printer to have a left handed coordinate system (it homes to the back left corner of the heatbed), I did this because it happens to make working on the printer easier for me. This, however, causes the objects to be printed mirrored. In Slic3r I manually mirror objects every time I load a new objects. From time to time I forget doing this which is really annoying. I was wondering if there is a setting in Slic3r to automatically do this. Something like mirroring on import, or changing the axis in Slic3r itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10623" LastActivityDate="2020-03-03T01:05:54.600" Title="Change Slic3r settings for left handed coordinate system" Tags="|slic3r|axis|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5879" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5874" CreationDate="2018-04-26T06:32:38.640" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;this is an extension to fred_dot_u answer.&#xA;As I am in the process of building my own printer, I decided to use RAMPS Arduino shield for electronics and Marlin firmware + Arduino  mega2560 as a logic controller. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As above are battle-tested, I don't need to discover wheel again, but rather focus on the mechanics.&#xA;The RAMPS mainboard will provide you with the ability to connect 5 steppers and 3 PWM regulated devices (that can be heat-bed, nozzle and fan or combination) and there is still possibility to connect more as a bunch of IO pins are ready to alocate. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;MarlinFirmware is avalible on github, so you can download it and then provide all mechanical parameters that are needed to properly drive your printer -so that is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mainboard type&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;type coreXY, XZ ....&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;bed size (x,y)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;gantry size (z)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;steps / mm for steppers&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;thermal protection parameters &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;LCD display (if in use)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main benefit of using Marlin for me is that printer configuration is extremely customizable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9730" LastEditorUserId="9730" LastEditDate="2018-04-26T08:04:29.900" LastActivityDate="2018-04-26T08:04:29.900" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5880" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5866" CreationDate="2018-04-26T06:37:22.087" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't know if this is the case with all FLSUN QQ printers, but mine was indeed set to 220v as the instructions/user manual indicated. First I needed to remove the bottom of the printer. Then there was a switch on the side of the power supply with the following label:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4zdhI.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4zdhI.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;voltage switch label&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know the picture is terrible, but the lighting inside the base of the printer was less than optimal. It should be pretty easy to find once you know what you're looking for. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10422" LastActivityDate="2018-04-26T06:37:22.087" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5881" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5878" CreationDate="2018-04-26T07:19:55.937" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The direction of the end stop is set in the firmware of the printer. Even with different setup end stops, you should be able to get a correct coordinate system without mirroring axes in slicers. &lt;strong&gt;This would be the preferred method to fix your problem!&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;E.g. my Ultimaker 3 Extended homes the Z on Z max having the platform at the bottom of the machine, a calibrated offset determines the actual Z=0.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not knowing which firmware you are using, in e.g. &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Marlin Firmware&lt;/a&gt; this is set by code lines in the file &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/blob/1.1.x/Marlin/Configuration.h&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Configuration.h&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;// Direction of endstops when homing; 1=MAX, -1=MIN&#xA;// :[-1,1]&#xA;#define X_HOME_DIR -1&#xA;#define Y_HOME_DIR -1&#xA;#define Z_HOME_DIR -1&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your end stop triggers at the maximum of the Y axis, so you need to configure it as a MAX end stop, i.e. use the Y_MAX pins by defining (search for the &lt;em&gt;Endstop Settings&lt;/em&gt; section, note to also disable the YMIN endstop):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;//#define USE_YMIN_PLUG // This disables the YMIN endstop&#xA;#define USE_YMAX_PLUG   // This enables the YMAX endstop&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and change the homing direction (Y_HOME_DIR) to 1:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#define Y_HOME_DIR 1 // This tells the printer where the endstop is located: positive for YMAX direction&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Otherwise when used at Y_MIN endstop and the homing direction set to -1, the axis is reversed as you experienced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-04-28T12:04:01.240" LastActivityDate="2018-04-28T12:04:01.240" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5882" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-04-26T07:20:18.510" Score="5" ViewCount="1683" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was considering printing some pieces for my irrigation system, like tube connectors and such. I am aware that PLA is hydrophilic so I was wondering with what kind of product I could coat the pieces, non-toxicity is a requirement because it will water edible greens.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, what kind of non-toxic product can I use to coat PLA to make it hydrophobic?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9988" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2018-08-04T00:11:53.997" LastActivityDate="2018-08-08T20:31:50.283" Title="PLA coating for water irrigation 3D printed parts" Tags="|pla|post-processing|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5883" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5877" CreationDate="2018-04-26T11:32:00.843" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;With the model file available, I was able to use Edit, Generate Face Groups. This allows one to continue with Select, {set small cursor}, select reversed panels, Edit, Flip Normals.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The above steps resolve the cockpit windows, but meshmixer's Analysis, Inspector shows a sea-urchin-presentation of other flaws, including what appears to be zero thickness walls in some locations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastActivityDate="2018-04-26T11:32:00.843" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5886" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-04-26T23:32:47.440" Score="5" ViewCount="684" Body="&lt;p&gt;Given a large set of data, I was able to create a 3D graph in Microsoft Excel.  How can I create a STL file similar to this graph to create a physical model of this graph?&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xvJhX.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xvJhX.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="43" LastActivityDate="2018-04-27T17:09:40.053" Title="How do I create a STL file from a 2 dimensional grid of data" Tags="|3d-models|stl|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5887" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5822" CreationDate="2018-04-27T13:29:58.533" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ok, so it turns out that this was caused by a problem in my stepper motor drivers, which results in missed steps, as described on &lt;a href=&quot;https://web.archive.org/web/20171127173338/http://www.engineerination.com/2015/02/drv8825-missing-steps.html?m=1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this guy's blog&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The fix was to hook up these &quot;TL Smoother&quot; modules (I got &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B071WG3SZQ&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;these particular ones&lt;/a&gt; from amazon but there are a bazillion clones)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After hooking up TL Smoother, this is what the print looks like:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/B52kB.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/B52kB.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10533" LastActivityDate="2018-04-27T13:29:58.533" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5888" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5886" CreationDate="2018-04-27T14:28:24.430" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;for that you can use openSCAD.&#xA;Data can be represented as a multi-array and we can iterate on it via for loop&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;// data structure is x,y,z where z is value &#xA;arrayOfData=[[0,10,4],[0,21,9],[0,13,8],[0,41,2],[1,0,4],[2,0,180],[7,0,90]];    &#xA;&#xA;for(a=[0:1:6])  translate([arrayOfData[a][0], arrayOfData[a][1],0])  cylinder(arrayOfData[a][2],2,.5,false);&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And where you get the model it can be intersected with a cube to get the desired shape.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kje3Z.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kje3Z.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9730" LastActivityDate="2018-04-27T14:28:24.430" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5889" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5886" CreationDate="2018-04-27T17:09:40.053" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was able to solve this using the openSCAD using the surface command. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikibooks.org/wiki/OpenSCAD_User_Manual/Other_Language_Features#Surface&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;openSCAD documentation&lt;/a&gt;:  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;//surface.scad&#xA;surface(file = &quot;surface.dat&quot;, center = true, convexity = 5);&#xA;%translate([0, 0,5])cube([10,10,10], center =true);&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And creating a space separated data file:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#surface.dat&#xA;10 9 8 7 6 5 5 5 5 5 &#xA;9 8 7 6 6 4 3 2 1 0 &#xA;8 7 6 6 4 3 2 1 0 0&#xA;7 6 6 4 3 2 1 0 0 0&#xA;6 6 4 3 2 1 1 0 0 0&#xA;6 6 3 2 1 1 1 0 0 0&#xA;6 6 2 1 1 1 1 0 0 0&#xA;6 6 1 0 0 0 0 0 0 0&#xA;3 1 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0&#xA;3 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then a STL can be exported of the data in openSCAD.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="43" LastActivityDate="2018-04-27T17:09:40.053" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5890" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="203" CreationDate="2018-04-27T18:32:46.200" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's no fixed maximum volumetric speed that works for everyone, there's simply too much variables to account for.&#xA;By using @Ian Williams explanation you can convert from volumetric to regular speeds but you still need to test what speed works best for your setup.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just a few of the other variables affecting how fast material can come out consistently: temperature (nozzle &amp;amp; heat brake), extruder motor power, path friction between extruder and hotend, material compressibility, fluidity and glass transition temperature, ..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are interesting topics on RepRap forums, like this one: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?262,654085&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?262,654085&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10632" LastActivityDate="2018-04-27T18:32:46.200" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5892" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5893" CreationDate="2018-04-28T17:46:41.677" Score="3" ViewCount="1420" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I have a stl file is there a good way to estimate how long it will take to print on a given printer? I know there are a lot of things that go into print speed, such as the speed of the printer, the size of the print, etc. I was wondering if anyone knows of perhaps an application that you could enter your printer's specifications and the stl that you want to print, and it could calculate the print time?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10422" LastActivityDate="2019-04-26T08:56:49.697" Title="How long will my print take?" Tags="|software|speed|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5893" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5892" CreationDate="2018-04-28T18:24:47.007" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;All commonly used slicers (e.g., Cura, Slic3r, Simplify3D,...) give an estimation of the print time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cPaM6.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cPaM6.png&quot; alt=&quot;Example of print time estimation in Cura&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2D5tZ.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2D5tZ.png&quot; alt=&quot;Example of print time estimation in Simplify3D&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastActivityDate="2018-04-28T18:24:47.007" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5895" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5892" CreationDate="2018-04-28T23:13:36.227" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The duration of a print is affected by the print properties. Speed, nozzle diameter (or line width), layer height,  amount of perimeters, infill percentage, combing, support structures to name a few important parameters. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, the only way to tell how long the printer will be printing a certain STL is by loading the STL file into a slicer and slice the model with those settings. The most common free slicers are Ultimaker Cura, Slic3r and payed slicer Simplify3D. Alternatively, when you &lt;strong&gt;already have G-code files&lt;/strong&gt; and do not have the STL anymore or don't want to slice it again (e.g. because you cannot remember which settings you used), you could upload your G-code &lt;a href=&quot;http://gcode.ws/#&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; and it will calculate it approximately for you (as it does not know the dynamics of the printer).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that these times are approximations of the real time it takes to print the object as it integrates the tool path and speed to get the time. Sometimes these calculations are off as the actual printer may behave differently than projected by the slicer. From experience I can tell that the Ultimaker Cura slicer predicts fairly accurate print times for the Ultimaker 3, so they have tuned their slicer software to their machines. For your own build or other brands this may result in different/inaccurate print time estimations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-04-26T08:56:49.697" LastActivityDate="2019-04-26T08:56:49.697" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5896" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5164" CreationDate="2018-04-29T19:34:57.220" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you go through the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.repetier.com/firmware/v100/index.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Repetier-Firmware configuration tool for version 1.0.2&lt;/a&gt; you can select the E1 stepper for the E0 extruder (or whatever stepper you want to use for it) in the tools tab sheet. I'm not familiar with Repetier, but if that does not work you would have to switch pin numbers. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you already have a Configuration.h, you can use that one (by loading it into the configuration tool) and alter the E1 afterwards so that you do not have to enter all the other options by yourself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit:&lt;/strong&gt; After some investigation, you can find your configuration file &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.facebook.com/groups/1787070361537465/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; as described &lt;a href=&quot;http://he3d-delta-printer-owners.wikia.com/wiki/Configuring_the_Repetier_Software_for_the_first_time&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;, so the only thing you would have to do is to load the file in the online tool and adjust the E1 stepper for E0 extruder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-05-01T07:05:57.807" LastActivityDate="2018-05-01T07:05:57.807" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5899" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5666" CreationDate="2018-04-30T13:16:33.957" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I actually did this, on my Malyan M150. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After not that much experimentation at all it turned out that the frequency of the produced tone scales linearly with the speed of the motors. Due to the nature of the way humans perceive music, the actual frequencies do not matter at all, just the relative difference in frequency between the tones. This means that it is actually really easy to let a 3D printer play a tune, you just have to make sure that when the next tone needs to have a frequency that is for example 20% higher than the last one, the motor needs to move 20% faster, no need to actually measure at which speeds the printer produces which tones. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of the main issues turned out to be the maximum speed of the motors, which wasn't high enough for some of the higher notes, but this issue could be solved by multiplying all the speeds by a number lower than 1, thereby lowering the required speeds while still maintaining the original melody. Playing two tones at the same time proved to be a bit too difficult for my not that great programming skills, while not being worth the effort because somehow there was quite a large difference in volume between the motors. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the end, I made a MATLAB script that converts MIDI files to G-code with the following result: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jPV-TolORK4&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;3D-printer playing popcorn song&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10659" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2019-05-08T13:18:08.763" LastActivityDate="2019-05-08T13:18:08.763" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5900" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5868" CreationDate="2018-05-01T20:54:21.247" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;To have a material be &quot;flexible&quot; and retain the shape after the &quot;flexing&quot;, you need to apply a stress in excess of the elastic deformation stress.  You will want a material that has the elastic deformation limit that is much lower than the ultimate tensile strength.  Unfortunately, for plastics, this is difficult to find.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most plastics are made up of tightly bound, long-chain molecules.  Flexing beyond the elastic limit requires breaking these bonds, which introduces weak points in the plastic.  You can see this by bending almost any plastic.  Either it will snap in two, or you will see a light or white colored line along the fold.  The lighter color comes from light scattering from the broken bonds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;Flexible&quot; structural plastics such as ABS are a copolymer (more than one type of molecule) in which one of the polymers is rubbery.  The rubbery bits provide places within the bulk material where the stress can create strain that doesn't require breaking bonds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I doubt that any 3D-printer FDM compatible filaments will satisfy your needs.  A filament must keep its shape during printing, if for no other reason than to permit the extruder drive mechanism to apply pressure to the filament.  There are 3D-printable filaments, but they are very elastic and return to their shape when the stress is released.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some metals can respond to stress with by flowing rather than by elastic strain.  Lead comes to mind.  Someone suggested copper.  There are several degrees of hardness of copper depending on the alloy and the annealing schedule after it was formed.  Copper also work-hardens, becoming harder and more likely break under stress the more the copper flows under stress.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2082" LastActivityDate="2018-05-01T20:54:21.247" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5901" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-05-02T15:59:01.423" Score="8" ViewCount="562" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've made a paste extruder(plunger type), in which a plunger will push the syringe to extrude. Plunger movement is controlled by a stepper motor. In that arrangement, for g-code generation I've used inside dia of syringe as the filament diameter and inside dia of needle as nozzle diameter and to calculate extruder steps per mm, I&quot;ve used the lead of threaded rod which controls the movement of plunger. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But it had several issues like air bubbles and unable to print thick pastes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Later I've seen this video on &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PeYb3snGrU8&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Youtube&lt;/a&gt;. In which he later changed to a Auger bit mechanism and I've seen &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.personalfab.it/en/shop/clay-extruder-kit-2-0/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;WASP LDM&lt;/a&gt; already made a successful one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to make one of these. But in this mechanism how to calculate the steps per mm for Extruder?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it same as the lead of Auger bit??&#xA;What about the filament diameter in slic3r settings??&#xA;Anyone have any idea??&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10670" LastActivityDate="2018-05-04T09:46:00.380" Title="Auger Paste extruder" Tags="|extruder|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5902" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5901" CreationDate="2018-05-02T16:21:29.813" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;To be precise we shall have all physical parameters of extruded material to calculate extrusion parameters.&#xA;In that case, my approach will be to use try and check approach, as that will give a systematic problem-solving.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To set the steps/mm, we will focus only on the measured length after extrusion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;let's set the extrusion length to 10 cm, extrude and check the extruded length.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;if we measure a different value, then we can use a formula to fix that&#xA;&lt;code&gt;newStepsPermm = currentStepsPermm*(requestedExtrusionLength / measuredLength )&lt;/code&gt;&#xA;That need to be repeated as long as we will get requested length and this is a standard calibration procedure.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The minimal layer thickness will be connected with the way how the pasta behaves (how it is sticky, water amount etc) - so for that there is a need for a patience. &#xA;My approach will be to create a sheet where I would store the ingredients ratio and a note about extruded material behavior.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To remove bubbles in the extruded material - the syringe shall be filled with caution and continuously to avoid material stacking as that produces air pockets. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Addon: To calibrate clay you can print a single line using manually prepared gcode. Amount of extruded material could be estimated by weighting conteiner/bottle or extruded material and that will give you an orientation of flow like gramms/mm or mm3/mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;let's try this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;we have our steps//mm untouched&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;try to set printing speed for single line, so the clay will looks nice&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;if we have over/under extrusion - change feedrate by 5% up/down.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;when the extrusion looks ok, then note all printed parameters&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;so if we end-up with printing speed 10mm/s and feedrate 140%, then we know that the steps/mm need to be multiplied by feedrate factor (1.4 in this case).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9730" LastEditorUserId="9730" LastEditDate="2018-05-04T09:46:00.380" LastActivityDate="2018-05-04T09:46:00.380" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5903" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-05-02T19:06:06.223" Score="7" ViewCount="967" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just changed my nozzle on my Anet A8 after it was fully used up. When I started printing with my new 0.4&amp;nbsp;mm nozzle (same as before) my &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KEOul.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;extrusion&lt;/a&gt; was VERY bad and inconsistent, even so bad I couldn't continue printing because it would pull the first layer off. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I compare it to my &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5cjuO.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;extrusion&lt;/a&gt; before the nozzle switch, it is really bad, even though I tightened everything as before. I am quite sure it doesn't have to do with adhesion to the heated bed since I use tape with PVA glue. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any advice on how to remove this under extrusion so I can continue printing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All the specs:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;25&amp;nbsp;mm/s first layer print speed&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;200&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C nozzle&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;60&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C bed&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;PLA filament;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;0.4&amp;nbsp;mm nozzle size&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let me know if there is anything else you need to know.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10672" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-04-21T07:16:23.720" LastActivityDate="2019-04-21T07:16:23.720" Title="Anet A8 bad/inconsistent extrusion after changing nozzle" Tags="|extrusion|anet-a8|nozzle|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5904" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5903" CreationDate="2018-05-02T23:25:32.653" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your good extrusion look also a little bad , and the bad extrusion looks like a big feeding problem. for this you need:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Feeding.- try to tight the presure of the feeder thread, the one that press the filament on the extruder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bed Adhesion.- Use between 32° and 38°C if you are using masking tape, on higher temperatures the masking tape becomes to peel off if any border of the printing part is close to the edge of the tape. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sand the masking tape surface and clean it to be free of dust (eliminate shiny surface) with this is enough to get a good adhesion; I recommend TUK and 3D brands, they are sticky. If you need more adhesion you can spray a little hair spray, just one pass.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Clogged Nozzle.- you need to clean it, on your kitchen stove heat the nozzle until melt the filament, then use some cooper wire (some phone wiring has it) to remove residues inside the nozzle. If posible you can buy a drill bit with 0.4mm diameter to ensure a complete cleaning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4454" LastActivityDate="2018-05-02T23:25:32.653" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5905" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5906" CreationDate="2018-05-02T23:36:12.267" Score="4" ViewCount="5207" Body="&lt;p&gt;Currently I am using a 12 volts, 20 amperes power supply (Model S-240-12) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fraEVm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fraEVm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The stepper motors and the extruder need 5 amp, and the heated bed build plate needs 11 amp. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fXymv.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fXymv.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Technically you only need to use a 12 Volts, 16 amperes power supply, but I understand that you use the one with 20 amp because pulse currents from extruders and stepper motors can be stressful to supplies loaded to the max, so for reliability and performance, it is better to use a supply rated for 25% more than you need &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the place where I buy the spare parts for my 3d printer they also sell 12 V power supplies capable of delivering 25 amp and 30 amp and they told me that if I use those ones you are going to be able to speed up the heating of the heated bed. Is that true? I understand that the heated bed is only going to take the 11 amp that it needs so is not going to make any difference to use power supplies capable of delivering more current&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1814" LastActivityDate="2021-04-13T20:13:47.500" Title="Speeding up the heating of the heated bed" Tags="|heated-bed|ramps-1.4|switching-power-supply|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5906" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5905" CreationDate="2018-05-03T06:38:48.260" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Changing the PSU with one with a higher amperage will &lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;not&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt; make the bed heat up any faster unless the PSU is underrated for the amperage required and the voltage is dropping as a result of the load. This can be checked by measuring the output voltage with a multimeter (when the PSU is loaded e.g. by a heating heat bed). In this case, the PSU has a marginal higher Amperage than the printer consumes (even has some room for the over-voltage; &lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;under the assumption that it is a good working PSU&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt;). Increasing the voltage will decrease the heat up time. There is a screw next to the 12 V connectors that can change the output voltage of the PSU. Usually, it is safe to increase the voltage up to 14 V, but that depends on your whole setup (and 14 V is applied to the whole setup, increasing the current for &lt;strong&gt;all&lt;/strong&gt; parts, including your printer controller board, this board must be rated for the 14 V).  &lt;strong&gt;Please do check the stability of the voltage during load.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although it can be done, it is not something I used. What is an extra minute on a print of several hours?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can do the math: say the heat bed has a resistance of 1.2 Ω. We only need two formulas:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$U=R\times I$&lt;/span&gt; - potential Difference &lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;U&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt; is Resistance &lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;R&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt; times Current &lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;I&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$P=U\times I=I^2\times R=\frac {U^2} R$&lt;/span&gt;. The power &lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;P&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt; of an item the potential difference times the current through the item.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;at &lt;strong&gt;12 V&lt;/strong&gt; that will draw 10 Amps (12 V / 1.2 Ω) resulting in a 120 Watt bed: &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$P= 12^2 \text V \times 10^2 \text A= {10^2 \text A}\times {1.2\ \Omega}=\frac{12^2 \text V} {1.2\ \Omega} $&lt;/span&gt;),&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;at &lt;strong&gt;14 V&lt;/strong&gt; that same bed will draw 11.7 Amps (14 V / 1.2 Ω) resulting in a 163.3 Watt bed.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Use at your own risk!&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What you could do to decrease time to heat the bed without changing the PSU or the voltage is to insulate the bottom of the heat bed with heat bed cotton sheets or cork (placemats from IKEA ;) ), put a sheet of cork onto the heat bed before printing and start heating the bed through the LCD panel of the printer or any attached printer controller programs over USB prior to printing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2021-04-13T18:09:56.650" LastActivityDate="2021-04-13T18:09:56.650" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5907" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5903" CreationDate="2018-05-03T08:59:58.590" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the nozzle assembled properly?&#xA;As I assumed that there were no other changes during the nozzle exchange process, then there is a risk of a gap inside throat and nozzle that just builds up and blocks the extrusion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please see &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/5830/9730&quot;&gt;this answer&lt;/a&gt; for an assembly hints.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9730" LastActivityDate="2018-05-03T08:59:58.590" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5908" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5903" CreationDate="2018-05-03T09:14:21.940" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;To be sure it's from your nozzle / extrusion mecanism, you could check calibration by extruding (in the air) 100mm of filament, and check how much it really uses. If it uses 100mm (or so), then the problem comes from any other parts (bed, filament feeding...).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this is really an extrusion problem, first you can check again your extrusion step motor gear. If it's ok, then you could put back your old nozzle to ensure the new one is the problem... If all is ok with the old one, then yous should have something in your new one, or it's not a .4mm ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10677" LastActivityDate="2018-05-03T09:14:21.940" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5909" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5905" CreationDate="2018-05-03T14:35:53.120" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;May I recommend an alternative approach, which does not require any change of hardware?  The time required to heat the bed is not huge, so either via USB from your computer or from the front panel,  instruct your printer to heat the bed first, while you're setting everything else up (loading gcode files, changing filaments, or whatever).  This way tasks are completed in parallel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2191" LastActivityDate="2018-05-03T14:35:53.120" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5910" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5905" CreationDate="2018-05-03T18:31:45.123" Score="-3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Also a thing that helped to preheat faster: make sure no draft is cooling down bed. It sounds obvious but cold-end fan and window draft, even psu fan draft can contribute significantly to preheat time. Eliminating draft source changed bed preheat time from 10 down to 5 minutes in my case...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10681" LastActivityDate="2018-05-03T18:31:45.123" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5911" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5905" CreationDate="2018-05-04T05:08:13.737" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I glued (high temperature silicone) an isolation (cork 5-8mm) on the bottom side of my heatbed. It avoids loosing heat thru the bottom side. Effect: minimal faster heatup and less energy consuming over the time of use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9575" LastActivityDate="2018-05-04T05:08:13.737" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5912" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5876" CreationDate="2018-05-04T06:56:07.110" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes there are similar algorithms, but (afaik) not as ready to use programms. &#xA;I wrote a bachelor thesis by my own, where i converted poind cloud datas of scanned surfaces into contour octrees. This based on the work of Laine (&lt;a href=&quot;https://users.aalto.fi/~laines9/publications/laine2010i3d_paper.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://users.aalto.fi/~laines9/publications/laine2010i3d_paper.pdf&lt;/a&gt;) and the approach of using sparse voxel contour octrees, but instead of using polygons it used point clouds.&#xA;This way was intended to get fast, good approximated results for visualizing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But there may be also other slower and more accurate algorithms. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Btw. this question is not good placed in the 3D printing forum, because it is a question about data conversion.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9575" LastActivityDate="2018-05-04T06:56:07.110" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5913" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5916" CreationDate="2018-05-04T09:36:39.083" Score="7" ViewCount="611" Body="&lt;p&gt;While this may seem like terribly noobish question, I'm sure one day someone will have same problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I own a ZONESTAR P802QSU (Bowden extruder) and all of sudden my extruder motor stopped working. What I did:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I check whether or not motor is moving freely - I can rotate it without any problems manually.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I checked out cable and plugs - everything seems OK.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I checked whether motor is working after plugging it into another slot in motherboard - motor works fine.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I checked if another motor works after plugging it into same slot on mainboard - and it does not.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It would seem that there is something wrong with E0-mot driver module, or with socket. I'm however totally at loss about what can I do with any of those. I do not have any electronic equipment except multimeter, and voltage on motor seems fine(11.3V between red and black, I guess V+ and ground). It sometimes seemed to get lower, but I'm almost sure it is my trembling hands.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After some googling, I started checking A4988 stepper driver with my multimeter. VDD was ~5V and VMOT around 12V, so it seems to work at least in this way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What can I do, to see what is broken? Visually nothing looks like it burned out, but I'm fully aware it may not be visible.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9924" LastActivityDate="2018-05-05T00:08:01.597" Title="Zonestar Extruder motor does not work - what can I check?" Tags="|extruder|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5914" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5913" CreationDate="2018-05-04T12:51:14.107" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Good investigation there!  You are almost certainly correct that a driver chip has gone blooey.  Personally I doubt it's worth the effort to locate and repair, rather than buying a new, trustworthy board.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I recommend this approach because one blown chip may well have caused (or been caused by) unrecognized damage elsewhere, which might then lead to future failures.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2191" LastActivityDate="2018-05-04T12:51:14.107" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5916" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5913" CreationDate="2018-05-05T00:08:01.597" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As this is not an obvious case, most printers' firmware has a &lt;strong&gt;cold extrusion prevention&lt;/strong&gt;. That is usually set at 170C, so the nozzle need to be over 170 to allow stepper to move.&#xA;I experienced that when I was assembling my TT and doing a cold run, to validate all mechanical movements and clearance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In Marlin firmware, the extruder stepper is switched off after extrusion, so we can freely move it, but not other motors and that could give us a thought that something is bad with the driver.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9730" LastActivityDate="2018-05-05T00:08:01.597" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5918" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4970" CreationDate="2018-05-05T16:34:56.777" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Tymrak, B. M., M. Kreiger, and Joshua M. Pearce. &quot;Mechanical properties of components fabricated with open-source 3-D printers under realistic environmental conditions.&quot; Materials &amp;amp; Design 58 (2014): 242-246., the authors suggest that one of the strongest factors influencing simple tensile strength of a 3D printed part was the ratio of its measured mass compared to its expected mass calculated by the slicer. Given that many printers under-extrude (especially when used with manufacturer's calibration settings) the accuracy of your model may be moot if your model isn't as solid as you'd expect it to be. The authors also suggest that the presence of fillers and pigments affected overall part strength.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The researchers at the not-for-profit &lt;a href=&quot;https://niatech.org/work/research-and-development/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Nia Technologies&lt;/a&gt; develop technologies for 3D-printed prostheses. They have some published research, but I'm not aware if it includes their FEA technique or tools. From an informal discussion with one of their staff, it seems that material variability and even environmental conditions while printing have measurable effects on final strength.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="983" LastActivityDate="2018-05-05T16:34:56.777" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5919" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5710" CreationDate="2018-05-05T17:20:43.377" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I got the same problem on a Ultimaker 3 with Cura. The problem was, that there is a hidden option for the initial layer. By default the first layer is set to something around 130-150&amp;nbsp;% of the normal layer height. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So if you set up 0.2&amp;nbsp;mm the initial layer will be printed with 0.27&amp;nbsp;mm and this can cause problems. After setting this initial layer height to also 0.2&amp;nbsp;mm the print stuck really good at the bed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also made similar observations on my own Anet A8.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9575" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-07-30T15:42:37.863" LastActivityDate="2018-07-30T15:42:37.863" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5920" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-05-06T07:17:43.817" Score="3" ViewCount="56" Body="&lt;p&gt;Also, a visualization of the various types of supports required in slicing the CAD model is a plus.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm just getting started with Rapid prototyping and I had no idea about that. Is there any type of support we can select in the software settings or will it always get generated automatically? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10700" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2018-09-16T12:39:09.270" LastActivityDate="2018-09-16T12:39:09.270" Title="What are various types of supports required in slicing the CAD model?" Tags="|print-quality|support-structures|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5921" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5923" CreationDate="2018-05-06T14:30:03.967" Score="5" ViewCount="244" Body="&lt;p&gt;My Printrbot simple metal's extruder is jammed and I need to heat it up to unjam it. Unfortunately, the printer does't want to connect to my laptop regardless of the program I'm using (Repetier-Host or Cura 15). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a way to use a micro SD card to heat up the printer hotend but not print anything?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6883" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-06-05T20:53:17.843" LastActivityDate="2018-07-02T20:26:47.820" Title="How to heat up a Printrbot's hotend using an SD card" Tags="|extruder|hotend|microsd|sd|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5922" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-05-06T15:25:28.050" Score="3" ViewCount="447" Body="&lt;p&gt;I wrote a command in Marlin firmware which changes Neopixel color based on extruder temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my start G-code for I set the color to white. How to execute my above command from the end G-code so that the the color changes per request?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10702" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-06-06T04:29:30.217" LastActivityDate="2018-06-06T09:27:36.450" Title="How to execute firmware command from gcode" Tags="|marlin|g-code|firmware|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5923" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5921" CreationDate="2018-05-06T20:33:45.683" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sure there is. As you use Cura, you can grab any G-code file (you already have) and use it to set hotend temperature (delete the actual printing part from the file) to get something like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;;FLAVOR:Marlin&#xA;;TIME:102&#xA;;Filament used: 0.0573674m&#xA;;Layer height: 0.2&#xA;;Generated with Cura_SteamEngine 3.3.1&#xA;; M190 S60 ;-&amp;gt; this sets the bed temperature so we can comment it out&#xA;; the next line sets the hotend to 200 degrees Celsius&#xA;M104 S200&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As every line that starts with a semi-colon is a comment and is ignored by the printer, &lt;code&gt;M104 S200&lt;/code&gt;, would be the only line you need in the printout file.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're interested in knowing more - look here: &lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/wiki/G-code&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;G-codes on reprap wiki&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9730" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-06-10T06:18:12.553" LastActivityDate="2018-06-10T06:18:12.553" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5924" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5922" CreationDate="2018-05-06T20:38:36.520" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As your color is based on the temp reading, as far as I know, there is no G-code to read a temperature and push that value to another command.&#xA;The way you can do it is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Static color change - use same method as you are setting to white&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Intercept firmware temperature reading function and push that value to led module&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9730" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-06-06T09:27:36.450" LastActivityDate="2018-06-06T09:27:36.450" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5927" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-05-07T05:42:15.197" Score="4" ViewCount="524" Body="&lt;p&gt;My home built printer has been having issues running properly. The x/y/z motors will run freely with standard non build position commands but when they are suppose to start a raft layer and they freeze up and don't respond properly. When I put my hands on my x/y motors they're cold as if no power is getting through, yet they ran just a moment before. I currently have a variable PSU which allows from 0-48v power output. I started turning the supply up and as I reached about 34v I noticed the motors started to run properly but my board did not regulate the power and instead started pushing the power through all of the ouptuts activating the second empty extruder and causing the heat on my extruders to rise to an extreme 300°C vaporizing my PLA. Ever since this incident my board continues to attempt to push power through all outputs regardless of the power output settings (ie if I set the output on my PSU to 11v, the motherboard still activates all motors and heaters) I am curious if I were to use 2 24v PSUs in parallel (or a series) if that would allow my motors to get the power they need without putting strain on my motherboard.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9861" LastActivityDate="2018-08-01T20:07:22.443" Title="Dual PSU with one switch fuse" Tags="|pla|3d-design|diy-3d-printer|electronics|switching-power-supply|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5928" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5920" CreationDate="2018-05-07T08:20:49.033" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Support structure generation depends on the type of slicer you use to convert your model (STL model file) into printable code (G-code) for the 3D printer. Different options and solutions exist to add support depending on the slicer software applications. Alternatively, you could add your own supports to your models in 3D CAD programs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Without giving an opinion on the slicer applications, the most commonly used slicers are Cura and Slic3r (both free) and Simplifi3d (paid license). Please choose your software and do some more investigations on setting up these applications for slicing and address your question with a more specific question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2018-05-07T08:20:49.033" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5929" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5930" CreationDate="2018-05-07T09:49:16.743" Score="1" ViewCount="745" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have excitedly decided to get my feet wet in the 3D printing world, and being that budget is fairly small got myself an ANet A8 3D printer. I have it all assembled and am able to 'print' however I don't really have any luck getting a successful print to actually occur.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the moment I am printing with PLA (start easy(er) is my logic) and had a few issues with getting the print to adhere to the print bed so found a plastic-like print surface that seems to adhere fairly well but I am still having issues :(.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the first layers are being deposited onto the bed (extruded at 215, to a bed temperature of 60) they appear to adhere fairly well to the surface, and the layers start to be built up. However, after a random period of time, the layers lost adhesion to the print bed and start to move around the bed which stuffs up all the prints.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;in terms of the extruder, the range for the PLA is 190 - 215. I tried lower tempertures but it did not really work in terms of properly melting the filiment unless it was around the 215 range.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To give you an example of how the prints come out, i have attached two images (front and back) of a set of prints. I stopped these printing as they lost grip on the bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Bottom Layer (on the bed)&lt;/em&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/505G1.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/505G1.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Bottom Layer (contacting bed)&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Top Layer&lt;/em&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/y0AEA.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/y0AEA.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Top Layer&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks heaps for helping a newbie out. I had tried changing speeds (faster and slower), changing temperatures and so on but i have no real idea what i am doing and was hoping someone far more knowledgable than me could give me some idea on where i may be going wrong and how to fix the issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My Cura profile;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;[profile]&#xA;layer_height = 0.2&#xA;wall_thickness = 1.6&#xA;retraction_enable = True&#xA;solid_layer_thickness = 1.6&#xA;fill_density = 20&#xA;nozzle_size = 0.4&#xA;print_speed = 30&#xA;print_temperature = 215&#xA;print_temperature2 = 0&#xA;print_temperature3 = 0&#xA;print_temperature4 = 0&#xA;print_bed_temperature = 60&#xA;support = None&#xA;platform_adhesion = None&#xA;support_dual_extrusion = Both&#xA;wipe_tower = False&#xA;wipe_tower_volume = 15&#xA;ooze_shield = False&#xA;filament_diameter = 1.75&#xA;filament_diameter2 = 0&#xA;filament_diameter3 = 0&#xA;filament_diameter4 = 0&#xA;filament_flow = 100&#xA;retraction_speed = 45&#xA;retraction_amount = 4.5&#xA;retraction_dual_amount = 16.5&#xA;retraction_min_travel = 1.5&#xA;retraction_combing = True&#xA;retraction_minimal_extrusion = 0.02&#xA;retraction_hop = 0.0&#xA;bottom_thickness = 0.2&#xA;layer0_width_factor = 100&#xA;object_sink = 0.0&#xA;overlap_dual = 0.15&#xA;travel_speed = 50&#xA;bottom_layer_speed = 20&#xA;infill_speed = 0&#xA;inset0_speed = 0.0&#xA;insetx_speed = 0.0&#xA;cool_min_layer_time = 5&#xA;fan_enabled = True&#xA;skirt_line_count = 1&#xA;skirt_gap = 3.0&#xA;skirt_minimal_length = 150.0&#xA;fan_full_height = 0.5&#xA;fan_speed = 30&#xA;fan_speed_max = 70&#xA;cool_min_feedrate = 10&#xA;cool_head_lift = False&#xA;solid_top = True&#xA;solid_bottom = True&#xA;fill_overlap = 15&#xA;support_type = Lines&#xA;support_angle = 60&#xA;support_fill_rate = 10&#xA;support_xy_distance = 1.2&#xA;support_z_distance = 0.45&#xA;spiralize = False&#xA;simple_mode = False&#xA;brim_line_count = 4&#xA;raft_margin = 5&#xA;raft_line_spacing = 1.0&#xA;raft_base_thickness = 0.3&#xA;raft_base_linewidth = 0.7&#xA;raft_interface_thickness = 0.2&#xA;raft_interface_linewidth = 0.2&#xA;raft_airgap = 0.22&#xA;raft_surface_layers = 2&#xA;fix_horrible_union_all_type_a = True&#xA;fix_horrible_union_all_type_b = False&#xA;fix_horrible_use_open_bits = False&#xA;fix_horrible_extensive_stitching = False&#xA;plugin_config = (lp1&#xA;    .&#xA;object_center_x = -1&#xA;object_center_y = -1&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10711" LastActivityDate="2018-05-07T10:27:16.590" Title="Stuck getting ANet A8 Printer to build layers" Tags="|extrusion|anet-a8|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2018-05-25T11:29:21.337" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5930" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5929" CreationDate="2018-05-07T10:27:16.590" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your nozzle is way too far from the bed for the first layer. You should adjust the bed leveling screws to bring the nozzle closer to the bed, to the point where a piece of paper just barely fits between the nozzle and the bed. You should closely watch the first layer as it is being put down, the plastic should get squished slightly and there should be no gaps between adjacent lines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastActivityDate="2018-05-07T10:27:16.590" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5931" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5932" CreationDate="2018-05-07T12:01:12.850" Score="5" ViewCount="15388" Body="&lt;p&gt;Having printed exclusively in PLA for the past year, I'm now looking at trying out PETG in order to print a set of spare parts for my new Prusa i3 mk3.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have bought a roll of PETG from Rigid.ink and their recommendation is to leave an extra 0.2mm gap between the nozzle and bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I achieve this extra Z offset in gcode using Slic3r PE, or would I need to do it using Live Z Adjust on the printer? How would I go about doing this if so?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or is there some other way of doing it, so whenever I select my PETG filament profile in Slic3r, the extra Z-offset gets added?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7405" LastActivityDate="2018-10-21T22:00:15.420" Title="Adding extra Z-offset to bed for PETG in Slic3r" Tags="|slicing|slic3r|bed-leveling|pet|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5932" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5931" CreationDate="2018-05-07T12:13:40.487" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;An extra gap of 0.2 mm on top of your existing gap seems rather illogical as the filament is not squished at the build plate anymore. Furthermore 0.2 mm plus something you already have will soon result in a gap over 75% of your nozzle diameter (including your first layer; note that 75% is considered to be the max for good adhesion). The filament will then drop down to the plate... Possible effects/results can be seen in &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/5929/stuck-getting-anet-a8-printer-to-build-layers&quot;&gt;this recent question&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having printed about 8 kg's of PETG, I have never had to add an additional gap. I have printed on various machines; Prusa clone, Ultimaker 3E and self build CoreXY. I use a 0.2 to 0.25 mm first layer thickness (for a 0.4 mm nozzle) while printing on glass or directly onto the aluminium bed using a PVA based spray glue (3DLAC). Beds are always leveled with the nozzle to bed distance of a sheet A4 printing paper. I have zero adhesion problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would recommend you to try print as you would normally do and, when that does not work, increase the first layer in your slicer slightly. Printing temperature/speed towers is also recommended to find the best settings for your brand of PETG.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Now to address your specific question how to change the offset in your slicer;&lt;/strong&gt; an additional offset can be added into your start code script by adding a move to a certain height and redefining the zero Z level. This should be typically done after auto leveling of the bed (if used). So before the first layer is being printed you could add:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;; start code contains homing, pre-heating, auto-leveling, nozzle priming, etc.&#xA;G1 Z0.2 F500 ; Go to the level of 0.2 mm + your paper thickness&#xA;G92 Z0       ; This redefines the zero Z level&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can create custom startcode &lt;a href=&quot;http://manual.slic3r.org/configuration-organization/configuration-organization&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;profiles&lt;/a&gt; in Slic3r (requires setting the &lt;a href=&quot;http://manual.slic3r.org/simple-mode/simple-mode#printer-settings&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Printer Settings&lt;/a&gt;) and store them with a specific name so you can have different printer profiles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-10-21T22:00:15.420" LastActivityDate="2018-10-21T22:00:15.420" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5935" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-05-07T18:57:16.750" Score="7" ViewCount="7301" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to know how to make a mold of a 3D design in .stl format.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Suppose I have a 3D partin .stl format (for e.g. a cylinder) and I want to make/design a mold for this object (i.e. the structure through which I could make the cylinder). Is there any way to do so? Are there any tools to do so?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My requirement is as follows: I have an .stl file of a design and need to develop the CAD files for its mold. I will then need to 3D print these molds. I would require to add a hole to pour in liquid (resin based) raw material which hardens with time. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10694" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-05-24T07:42:26.900" LastActivityDate="2019-01-24T19:11:33.057" Title="Generating mold from stl file of the 3D drawing of the object" Tags="|3d-design|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5937" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5935" CreationDate="2018-05-07T19:31:57.340" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can also bring the model and a big box into slic3r, align and orient them (enclose the model in the box), and do a subtract modifier, leaving a hollow where the two intersected. You probably want to do this twice, for a top mould and a botom mould. I've done this, but I don't see any instructions online for it. :(&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: Unfortunately, this would be very tedious. It's much easier to use meshmixer or another publicly available program to subtract one stl from another.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In Slic3r, using another stl as a modifier has no effect unless you are also printing that second stl (normally from another head). So you would have to manually remove all the gcode for the second head. Sorry for the bad advice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4922" LastEditorUserId="4922" LastEditDate="2018-05-08T12:44:54.877" LastActivityDate="2018-05-08T12:44:54.877" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5938" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5935" CreationDate="2018-05-07T21:16:58.503" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;In addition to the answer of Davo (which describes a surprising feature of the slicer software I was unaware of), a more generic description would involve the use of a 3D solid model CAD program. You should be aware that a model in STL format is not a solid model, it is a surface model. In order to make a mold you would have to import the STL model into a CAD program (there are a few free ones available like Fusion 360 or FreeCAD or maybe many more that will work also) and make a solid body from the surface model. Next thing is to create a large rectangular block and subtract the positive model from the block. Now a negative lives inside this block so you will need to conveniently cut the block through your negative to create 2 mold parts. Be sure that you divide the block so that you can take out the casting from the mold parts and also add an entry to pour in the liquid casting material and add risers (holes) to de-aerate the cavity. Furthermore, for alignment, you could add pins and holes to the mold parts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-05-24T07:34:58.960" LastActivityDate="2018-05-24T07:34:58.960" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5939" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4745" CreationDate="2018-05-08T06:56:25.927" Score="7" Body="&lt;h1&gt;For Cura 3.1(?)+:&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Install the plugin: Menu / Plugins / Browse Plugins... / scroll to &quot;Z Offset plugin&quot; &lt;strong&gt;&amp;lt;-- Install&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Configure the setting: &lt;code&gt;Printer Profile / Print Setup / Build Plate Adhesion / Z Offset&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;set positive value for nozzle liftup&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;set negative value&lt;/strong&gt; to bring nozzle lower for first layer (like -0.1 for your wanted scenario)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10727" LastEditorUserId="10727" LastEditDate="2018-05-08T12:15:51.793" LastActivityDate="2018-05-08T12:15:51.793" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5940" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-05-08T08:48:12.413" Score="6" ViewCount="560" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been looking for this for a while, and it looks like no one has tried it before.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know if there is a way to link an Arduino Mega with RAMPS as master, with an Arduino Uno with a CNC Shield as slave, and get it to work on Marlin firmware?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why do I want to do this? I'm planning to build a DIY heavy duty 3d printer that will use a lot more stepper motors than the typical prusa style machines, and I want to use Arduino to control it instead of custom CNC/stepper/3d printer controller boards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10524" LastEditorUserId="10524" LastEditDate="2018-05-08T08:55:18.133" LastActivityDate="2018-05-08T10:48:08.497" Title="Linking an Arduino Mega with RAMPS and an Arduino Uno with CNC Shield to control more stepper motors using Marlin firmware" Tags="|diy-3d-printer|arduino-mega-2650|stepper-driver|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5941" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5940" CreationDate="2018-05-08T10:48:08.497" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;so points to that case:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;how are you going to sync master/slave?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;adding more steppers to master (even only for pushing control to slave) will limit speed in the whole system (this is mainly one of the reasons why we shall go to 32-bit platforms to print faster).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As marlin will give you a good grasp to convert g-code into steppers movement, then if you are willing to double or triple steppers number per axis, you can grab &lt;code&gt;dir&lt;/code&gt; and &lt;code&gt;step&lt;/code&gt; signal and forward it to other steppers drivers without the mess of syncing movement in time and board. If you are going to add a special tooling - then you shall add your mods to firmware as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9730" LastActivityDate="2018-05-08T10:48:08.497" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5942" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5944" CreationDate="2018-05-08T13:23:53.930" Score="4" ViewCount="10166" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am a complete noob when it comes to the 3d printing world. I just finished assembling my printer and I plug it into my computer with the included usb cable and nothing happens. My computer does recognize the printer being plugged in but it just says &quot;unrecognized device in com 4&quot;. Nothing else past that. Somebody please help me with the following steps that need to be taken to get my CPU talking with my printer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10731" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-09-03T05:52:05.010" LastActivityDate="2019-09-03T05:52:05.010" Title="Help installing my Anet A8 printer to my computer" Tags="|anet-a8|usb|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5944" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5942" CreationDate="2018-05-08T15:02:04.187" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your question addresses (USB) computer connection, so that will be addressed in this answer. For connection to the printer, you need 2 things (apart from the apparent things as computer, printer and cable):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A working CH340 driver installed on the computer for USB communication with the board,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a piece of software to talk to the computer at a bit transfer rate the printer understands.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The cheap Arduino based boards rely on the CH340 chip for USB communication. You should check whether you have correctly installed this driver. These drivers are erroneous and prone to cause problems. Sometime re-installation works, once did work for me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The SD card supplied by Anet contains a folder (on my SD card: &lt;code&gt;.\A8\A8资料\Software\CH340G Drive&lt;/code&gt;) with the installer file of the driver. Once installed properly, you should be able to connect various applications to the A8, provided you use the correct baud rate of 115200.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All this said, &lt;strong&gt;are you asking the correct question&lt;/strong&gt;? Why do you need to connect to a computer, as you can print just fine by putting sliced &lt;code&gt;.stl&lt;/code&gt; files (&lt;code&gt;.gcode&lt;/code&gt; files) onto the SD card (when inserted in the computer using the adapter) and reinsert the card again in the printer to select the file using the menu buttons of the printer. Printing from SD card is considered safer then printing via the computer over USB as the print will stop when the PC is shut down or crashes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-05-09T05:47:10.020" LastActivityDate="2018-05-09T05:47:10.020" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5945" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5942" CreationDate="2018-05-08T16:54:04.927" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Try using the provided SD card and SD adapter with Cura to give the printer gcode. If your computer isn't communicating properly with your printer, you can just download Cura 14 (it comes on the SD card) and upload the configuration file (also on the SD card). You can then plug the SD card into your main board and access it via the LCD screen. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7019" LastActivityDate="2018-05-08T16:54:04.927" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5946" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4745" CreationDate="2018-05-08T16:57:16.493" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I built my printer five years ago with a similar issue and I strongly suggest that the physical 0 will be the actual 0 instead of tweeking it into the system. Especially if you are exploring and testing new methods, i.e. Cura vs Slic3r settings. In Marlin, you can insert a z adjustment for the endstops but it can create future complications if you decide to upgrade the machine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keep it as simple as possible, if a sensor is misplaced don't try to reverse calculate it, the pressure of the motors will nudge it and after a while you'll have the same problem...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10734" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-05-15T12:28:30.210" LastActivityDate="2018-05-15T12:28:30.210" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5947" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-05-08T18:08:12.410" Score="3" ViewCount="165" Body="&lt;p&gt;We use Simplify and have a large 10’x10’x4’ printer. We need G-code that when the extrusion stops the machine will stop and raise 10&amp;nbsp;mm as to not to burn the print, so we know where the extrusion stopped. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We are using beads instead of filament, which work great. We have a mechanical pusher of beads that once it stops spinning, we need a G-code to recognize it is not spinning anymore and to stop the printer at that point and to lift up 10&amp;nbsp;mm. Printer might go 3-4 days sometimes a week with no problems and all of a sudden no extrusion and machine keeps thinking its printing. We have to start all over. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any suggestions?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10735" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-09-21T20:10:29.183" LastActivityDate="2018-09-21T20:10:29.183" Title="Large 3D printer 10'x10'x4' - Need G-code to tell when it stops extruding and to stop machine" Tags="|extruder|software|g-code|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5948" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5947" CreationDate="2018-05-08T21:01:24.990" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;G-code is likely not the solution to your problem. G-code are simple commands that are executed by the printer (e.g. &quot;heat up the hotend to this temperature&quot; or &quot;move the extruder to this position&quot;) but there is no G-code for &quot;detect whether the pusher is still running&quot; (and besides, how could the printer possibly detect whether the pusher is running without hardware to do so?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll likely want to configure your pusher to somehow act as a &lt;a href=&quot;http://marlinfw.org/docs/configuration/configuration.html#filament-runout-sensor&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;filament runout sensor&lt;/a&gt;. This is a feature in Marlin (smoothieware has &lt;a href=&quot;http://smoothieware.org/filament-detector&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;something similar&lt;/a&gt;) that allows you to pause the print by making an input on one of the control board's pins. You'll need to build hardware that detects the motion of the pusher, and if the motion is interrupted, pulls the &lt;code&gt;FIL_RUNOUT_PIN&lt;/code&gt; low (in the case of Marlin). You can then configure what should happen next (e.g. raising the head and stopping the print) using &lt;code&gt;FILAMENT_RUNOUT_SCRIPT&lt;/code&gt; (again, only if you're using Marlin).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastActivityDate="2018-05-08T21:01:24.990" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5949" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4603" CreationDate="2018-05-09T05:58:04.143" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Skynet3D is an obsolete &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fork_(software_development)&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;fork&lt;/a&gt; of &lt;a href=&quot;http://marlinfw.org/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Marlin Firmware&lt;/a&gt; that was created because the displays of the Anet printers have a different layout in terms of pin assignment. When the code stabilized, the fork of Marlin merged into the main code base. Configuration files for the Anet A8 and A6 have been added, see &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/tree/1.1.x/Marlin/example_configurations/Anet/A6&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; for the A6, so when you flash Marlin to your board, be sure to copy these configuration files to the root code directory.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An overview of all active printer firmwares is given by &lt;em&gt;www.reprap.org&lt;/em&gt; at &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.reprap.org/wiki/List_of_Firmware&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;List of Firmware&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-08-08T06:16:30.173" LastActivityDate="2018-08-08T06:16:30.173" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2018-05-09T05:58:04.143" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5950" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-05-09T14:32:58.073" Score="1" ViewCount="750" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm in distress here fellow people. I'm a noob to 3d printers and want to become an expert. Everybody has to start at the bottom right? Like the title says I'm trying to upload Skynet to my printer and for the board, I'm selecting &lt;code&gt;V.1&lt;/code&gt; even though my arduino board says &lt;code&gt;V.1-5&lt;/code&gt;. And for port I'm selecting &lt;code&gt;COM3&lt;/code&gt;, which is information I found in device manager, and the file I'm selecting to upload is &lt;code&gt;SkynetV.1.?alfa.ino&lt;/code&gt;. After all of that is selected I click upload and I get the following error messages:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Sketch uses 114,230 bytes (87%) of program storage space. Maximum is 131,072 bytes.&#xA;Global variables use 4,470 bytes of dynamic memory.&#xA;avrdude: stk500_getsync() attempt 1 of 10: not in sync: resp=0xd6&#xA;avrdude: stk500_getsync() attempt 2 of 10: not in sync: resp=0x6f&#xA;avrdude: stk500_getsync() attempt 3 of 10: not in sync: resp=0x80&#xA;avrdude: stk500_getsync() attempt 4 of 10: not in sync: resp=0xbf&#xA;avrdude: stk500_getsync() attempt 5 of 10: not in sync: resp=0xae&#xA;avrdude: stk500_getsync() attempt 6 of 10: not in sync: resp=0xd6&#xA;avrdude: stk500_getsync() attempt 7 of 10: not in sync: resp=0x02&#xA;avrdude: stk500_getsync() attempt 8 of 10: not in sync: resp=0x21&#xA;avrdude: stk500_getsync() attempt 9 of 10: not in sync: resp=0xcc&#xA;avrdude: stk500_getsync() attempt 10 of 10: not in sync: resp=0xd6&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please help me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10731" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-10-01T22:10:45.340" LastActivityDate="2018-10-02T19:03:44.457" Title="Trouble uploading Skynet3D to my Anet A8 via Arduino program" Tags="|firmware|skynet3d|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5951" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-05-10T06:54:49.283" Score="4" ViewCount="103" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I have to make an injection mold (for resin based raw material) using 3D printing, what raw material should I choose – PLA,  ABS, HIPS etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10694" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2018-09-16T12:38:15.337" LastActivityDate="2018-09-16T12:38:15.337" Title="Raw material for 3D printed injection mold" Tags="|print-quality|filament-choice|molds|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5952" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7861" CreationDate="2018-05-10T08:08:03.047" Score="10" ViewCount="23720" Body="&lt;p&gt;My main application for my 3D printer (Zortrax M200 Plus) is making 28 mm scale miniatures for role-playing games. Basically people and animals at 1:60 scale, which means that things like arms, legs, or weapons are only a few millimeters thick. If I use the automatically generated supports of the Z-Suite software, the supports end up being thicker than the model parts, and are impossible to remove.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had a bit more luck creating support structures with Meshmixer, but am not totally happy with those. So I am looking for other software to edit .STL files to add supports automatically, preferably with an option to edit those support structures easily afterwards. Any ideas?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that Zortrax printers only work with proprietary Z-Suite software, so the software that adds the support also needs to be able to export the model with the supports into an STL file, not just gcode.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10748" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2019-01-03T09:20:57.240" LastActivityDate="2019-01-03T09:20:57.240" Title="Software for adding supports to 3D printed miniatures in STL file" Tags="|software|support-structures|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5954" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5955" CreationDate="2018-05-10T14:06:30.123" Score="5" ViewCount="393" Body="&lt;p&gt;My print popped out from the bed and glued to the nozzle. As the printer was printing next hour or so, a lot of pla was extruded and formed on the nozzle. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;I'm wondering what will be the best way to remove pla from the nozzle without overheating wires?&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;a remark: was trying to heat the nozzle over 180, but I am getting a thermal runout. The pla is hard, I don't want to broke the throat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jC20j.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jC20j.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9730" LastEditorUserId="9730" LastEditDate="2018-05-10T15:31:52.443" LastActivityDate="2018-05-17T06:51:50.930" Title="What will be the best way to remove pla from a volcano nozzle?" Tags="|nozzle|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5955" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5954" CreationDate="2018-05-10T15:28:27.077" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you grab the blob with a pliers and twist, all or most of it may pop off.  If not,  heat the extruder up perhaps 10 degrees higher than usual, and wait for the external gunk to soften up and then pull it off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;edit :&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Well, if it won't get hot enough, then try using an external source such as a soldering iron tip to cut off most of the mess, then it may be time for exacto knife blades and small files to remove the remainder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unless you're a clean freak :-) a little residue around the nozzle doesn't matter - it won't touch your prints and at some time in the future it'll be &amp;quot;cooked&amp;quot; enough to fall off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2191" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:29:41.667" LastActivityDate="2018-05-10T15:36:18.807" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5956" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5952" CreationDate="2018-05-10T15:32:38.147" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't think you'll find automated software to create supports &quot;the way I want them to look.&quot;  So...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It might be worth investigating the &quot;Advanced Properties&quot; of Cura to see how thin, and thinly spaced, you can set its support walls to be.  I know there are settings for reducing the thickness at the top of the support, as well as some sort of &quot;top gap&quot; setting, for just the kind of problem you're dealing with. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2191" LastActivityDate="2018-05-10T15:32:38.147" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5957" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5952" CreationDate="2018-05-11T15:43:37.683" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're looking for an extremely powerful software with manual supports, I would recommend getting Simplify 3D. Simplify 3D allows you to manually add and edit support material in the slicer. The only drawback is that it cost 150 USD, but it will do what you need done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7019" LastActivityDate="2018-05-11T15:43:37.683" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5958" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5951" CreationDate="2018-05-11T16:50:00.493" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;P20 mold steel is one standard. Hardened parts are required for long life, depending on the service and material (some materials are quite abrasive). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can get a small number of relatively poor quality shots out of epoxy if it is properly supported by a metal box. Your best bet if you want to include 3D printing in the equation is probably to use epoxy or lost plastic casting from a 3D-printed master. Aside from the requirements of core and cavity with sufficient strength, there are requirements for vents, cooling tubes (bubblers and such like) ejector pins and slides that complicate most real molds. Productivity demands a high heat transfer rate, for very small quantities of expensive parts, thermal design may be less important. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Temperatures and pressures are very high in injection injection molding- high enough to melt the materials you mention, and the pressures are in the 10K PSI range, so a 4&quot; x 4&quot; projected cavity will have a pressure in the 80 ton region.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have sintered and filled metal 3D parts they may be suitable, but from the prices I've seen you'd be better off to use conventional machining. Finish is also very important if you want the part to come out of the mold, with hours of semi-manual polishing not uncommon. If you don't have fine surface finish you will need extreme draft angles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The requirements can be considerably relaxed if you are molding soft parts such as the PVC or TPE overmolds on cables. The pressure is less and the finish less important because the plastic is soft, but the temperatures are still quite high. This is sort of a sub-category of injection molding and specialized machines are used. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3992" LastEditorUserId="3992" LastEditDate="2018-05-11T16:55:23.977" LastActivityDate="2018-05-11T16:55:23.977" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5959" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5960" CreationDate="2018-05-11T17:53:10.460" Score="3" ViewCount="1961" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to print a model of my brain (figure 1), it requires supports (figure 2). The supports also get generated between the brain folds/wrinkles of the brain by Slic3r. I only want the supports to be generated between the bed an the object, not within the object itself. I thought of writing a script to edit the g-code, is there an easier way out?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Figure 1:&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bKYqT.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bKYqT.png&quot; alt=&quot;brain g-code slic3r stl&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;Figure 2:&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JIRrw.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JIRrw.png&quot; alt=&quot;brain g-code slic3r supports stl&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10623" LastActivityDate="2018-05-11T19:03:09.653" Title="Only generate supports between object and bed (for a brain model)" Tags="|slicing|slic3r|support-structures|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5960" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5959" CreationDate="2018-05-11T19:03:09.653" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Within Slic3r, there are settings for support, which can be enabled to create support only from the build plate. This would still generate supports under the brain, but not within the hollow sections.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vwbOc.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vwbOc.png&quot; alt=&quot;slic3r support settings&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastActivityDate="2018-05-11T19:03:09.653" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5961" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-05-12T15:42:21.310" Score="9" ViewCount="2907" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would love to re-use my failed prints by re-extruding the plastic to be used in the 3D printer once again. One thing that stands in my way is finding an effective way to shred the plastic into smaller bits for the extrude to use. What is a good thing to look for to accomplish this? Maybe a really big 'paper' shredder?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8835" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-10-30T03:13:09.900" LastActivityDate="2021-10-31T09:07:02.777" Title="Finding a shredder for my failed prints" Tags="|filament|extrusion|recycling|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5962" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-05-13T14:38:40.067" Score="1" ViewCount="1548" Body="&lt;p&gt;Looking at the following code, from &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/JimBrown/MarlinTarantula/blob/2ce73937f3c57aac28a8d5f11a6ed9135a27cdca/Marlin/pins_RAMPS.h#L139&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Line 139&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/JimBrown/MarlinTarantula/blob/2ce73937f3c57aac28a8d5f11a6ed9135a27cdca/Marlin/pins_RAMPS.h&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;pins_RAMPS.h&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ufVqI.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Screenshot of code snippet&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ufVqI.png&quot; alt=&quot;Screenshot of code snippet&quot; title=&quot;Screenshot of code snippet&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is the actual code:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#if ENABLED(EXTRUDER_USE_E1)&#xA;  #define E0_STEP_PIN        36&#xA;  #define E0_DIR_PIN         34&#xA;  #define E0_ENABLE_PIN      30&#xA;  #ifndef E0_CS_PIN&#xA;    #define E0_CS_PIN        44&#xA;  #endif&#xA;#else&#xA;  #define E0_STEP_PIN        26&#xA;  #define E0_DIR_PIN         28&#xA;  #define E0_ENABLE_PIN      24&#xA;  #ifndef E0_CS_PIN&#xA;  #define E0_CS_PIN        42&#xA;  #endif&#xA;#endif&#xA;&#xA;#if DISABLED(X_AXIS_USE_E1) &amp;amp;&amp;amp; DISABLED(Y_AXIS_USE_E1) &amp;amp;&amp;amp; DISABLED(Z_AXIS_USE_E1) &amp;amp;&amp;amp; DISABLED(EXTRUDER_USE_E1)&#xA;  #define E1_STEP_PIN        36&#xA;  #define E1_DIR_PIN         34&#xA;  #define E1_ENABLE_PIN      30&#xA;  #ifndef E1_CS_PIN&#xA;  #define E1_CS_PIN        44&#xA;  #endif&#xA;#endif&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've already tried everything that the online community tells me to do to solve this problem, but that all doesn't help me. Almost everyone is saying that I just have to swap these lines of code and it will work, but it's not working. Any ideas ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By the way E0 is not working because I've burnt a pot on it :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10566" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-05-16T12:19:14.907" LastActivityDate="2019-05-29T06:11:07.767" Title="Problem with swapping E0 for E1 (TEVO TARANTULA MARLIN 1.1.x)" Tags="|extruder|marlin|tevo-tarantula|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5963" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-05-13T15:20:46.027" Score="6" ViewCount="2944" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I'm auto-leveling my Anet A8 with Marlin firmware, the nozzle heats to 195°C during the leveling process, which leaves drops of filament. I checked the resulting G-code but makes no sense to me: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;M107&#xA;M190 S55 ; set bed temperature and wait for it to be reached&#xA;M117 Homing Axes&#xA;G28                          ; Home axis&#xA;M117 Autoleveling&#xA;G29&#xA;M117 Cleaning Nozzle    ; Indicate nozzle clean in progress on LCD&#xA;M109 S200       ; Uncomment to set your own temp run warmer to clean out nozzle&#xA;M107                ; Turn layer fan off&#xA;G21             ; Set to metric change to G20 if you want Imperial&#xA;G90                          ; Force coordinates to be absolute relative to the origin&#xA;G0 X10 Y0 Z0.15 F9000         ; Move in 1mm from edge and up z 0.15mm&#xA;G92 E0                       ; Set extruder to 0 zero&#xA;G1 Y190 E50 F500             ; Extrude 100mm filiment along Y axis 190mm long to prime and clean the nozzle&#xA;G92 E0                       ; Reset extruder to 0 zero end of cleaning run&#xA;G1 E-3 F500                  ; Retract filiment by 3 mm to reduce string effect&#xA;G1 X3 Y190 Z15 F9000        ; Move over and rise to safe Z height&#xA;G1 X3 Y0 Z15 F9000      ; Move back to front of bed at safe Z height to shear strings&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My printer heats the bed, then homes axes while setting the nozzle temperature to 195°C.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then autolevels and finally &lt;code&gt;M109 S200&lt;/code&gt; does its job.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I prevent the nozzle from heating when there is no G-code for it (except the &lt;code&gt;M109 S200&lt;/code&gt;)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9988" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-06-13T15:38:04.240" LastActivityDate="2018-09-11T18:06:25.467" Title="Nozzle heats while autoleveling (or before)" Tags="|g-code|hotend|nozzle|anet-a8|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="12" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5964" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5961" CreationDate="2018-05-13T23:10:50.790" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;there is a project called &lt;code&gt;precious plastic&lt;/code&gt; and there is a &lt;a href=&quot;https://bazar.preciousplastic.com/en/listings/572981-star-international-shipping-star-shredder-kit&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;plastic shredder&lt;/a&gt;, but it is a rather expensive solution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As I am waiting for parts for my &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:380987&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Lyman extruder&lt;/a&gt;, my plan is to hammer the parts and then process in old kitchen robot with steel working area, an &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/9a_ZYDcQV0w?t=44s&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;example here&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The paper shredder will be ok as long as you can feed it with plastic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9730" LastEditorUserId="9730" LastEditDate="2021-10-31T09:07:02.777" LastActivityDate="2021-10-31T09:07:02.777" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5965" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5962" CreationDate="2018-05-14T07:48:37.173" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;At first it was unclear from where the snippet you posted is taken from as it was not stated in the question (&lt;em&gt;this has now been addressed by a moderator edit&lt;/em&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on the value of &lt;code&gt;EXTRUDER_USE_E1&lt;/code&gt; (and where and how it is set) the underlying code of the if statement will be carried out. Albeit said, swapping lines will not work, if you want to use the E1 connector of your motherboard, you have to make the printer think that it is using the E0 while it is redirecting to E1! This implies that you need to assign the pins of the E1 to the E0 extruder (so swap the pins, not the lines). This has been explained before in &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/5840/how-to-change-e0-to-e1-on-marlin-1-1&quot;&gt;this topic&lt;/a&gt; by editing the correct pin layout file of the Marlin firmware.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT :&lt;/strong&gt; Further investigation shows that you have a custom Marlin for the TEVO Tarantula and are using the fork of Marlin maintained by &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/JimBrown/MarlinTarantula&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;JimBrown&lt;/a&gt; (&lt;strong&gt;this is essential information&lt;/strong&gt; for your question). I have looked into the files, the only thing you would need to do is define the constant &lt;code&gt;EXTRUDER_USE_E1&lt;/code&gt; in your &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/JimBrown/MarlinTarantula/blob/EasyConfig-1.1.x/Marlin/Configuration.h&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;configuration.h&lt;/a&gt; file:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;//#define EXTRUDER_USE_E1&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;to:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#define EXTRUDER_USE_E1&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So do not swap anything. Once this constant is defined, the pin re-allocation is done for you automatically! (see the &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/JimBrown/MarlinTarantula/blob/EasyConfig-1.1.x/Marlin/pins_RAMPS.h&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;pins_RAMPS.h file&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically, this is exactly the same as is explained in topic &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/5840/how-to-change-e0-to-e1-on-marlin-1-1&quot;&gt;How to change E0 to E1 on Marlin 1.1?&lt;/a&gt; and hence a duplicate. ;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-07-20T12:09:57.220" LastActivityDate="2018-07-20T12:09:57.220" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5966" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5963" CreationDate="2018-05-14T08:45:59.910" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am using CURA as my slicer, and it sets the bed and nozzle temp before printer start code is executed.&#xA;You can easily check that by opening a file in a notepad and see, that there will be a few lines describing the job, nozzle and bed setting temperature and &lt;code&gt;the user code&lt;/code&gt; that is inserted in printer properties screen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To change that behavior - you need to open the file and move the M commands down after leveling is executed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;;FLAVOR:Marlin&#xA;;TIME:45&#xA;;Filament used: 0.0187665m&#xA;;Layer height: 0.2&#xA;;Generated with Cura_SteamEngine 3.3.1&#xA;M190 S60&#xA;M104 S200&#xA;M109 S200M82 ;absolute extrusion mode&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;lines above are added by slicer so temperature is set before instritions from START G-Code section:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;G21 ;metric values&#xA;G90 ;absolute positioning&#xA;M82 ;set extruder to absolute mode&#xA;M107 ;start with the fan off&#xA;G28;&#xA;G92 E0 ;zero the extruded length&#xA;G1 F20 E3 ;extrude 3mm of feed stock&#xA;G92 E0 ;zero the extruded length again&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FTvAf.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FTvAf.png&quot; alt=&quot;user start g-code screen&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9730" LastEditorUserId="9730" LastEditDate="2018-05-14T14:39:18.223" LastActivityDate="2018-05-14T14:39:18.223" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5967" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5981" CreationDate="2018-05-14T11:56:22.840" Score="10" ViewCount="279" Body="&lt;p&gt;Suppose I'm given a shape with a Voronoi pattern, such as &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.myminifactory.com/object/3d-print-voronoi-spiral-centerpiece-vase-11900&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this lamp&lt;/a&gt;.  I'd like to be able to add a &quot;skin&quot; which covers the complete shape on the inner surface so I could print it with translucent material to produce a more-or-less uniform glow.  Here's an example of what I'd like to end up with: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.myminifactory.com/object/3d-print-voronoi-tea-light-shade-36071&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;tea lamp shade&lt;/a&gt;.  Any ideas on how to reverse-engineer a Voronoi object? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2191" LastEditorUserId="150" LastEditDate="2018-10-25T07:48:07.637" LastActivityDate="2024-02-15T13:21:46.033" Title="How to add &quot;skin&quot; to a Voronoi shape?" Tags="|cad|voronoi|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5968" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6566" CreationDate="2018-05-14T18:57:30.283" Score="4" ViewCount="892" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I recently installed a genuine E3D V6 (direct) on my AM8 (Anet a8 with upgraded frame). I have already been able to fix most of the print quality problems. But the last one is a hard one for me. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It prints super fine up until a certain height. Then the extruder starts slipping and starts making weird noises like its clogged but I will be able to push through filament properly after cancelling the print. I thought it was heat creep but when touching the spiral heat break it is just a tad warm. I can comfortably put my finger on it and keep it there. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also tried two different brands of filament and it seems to happen roughly at the same spot. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried PID tuning (the temps are literally perfect and super straight with no fluctuations), I tried cleaning the extruder gear and checked if it was worn or anything. Then I tightened everything on the extruder, making sure everything was nice and snug. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am not exactly a newbie when it comes to fixing my own printer and troubleshooting the problems but this one I have never seen or had before. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do you guys have any tips for me to point me in the right direction?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Running Marlin 1.1.8. I have a BLTouch on it and an AnyCubic UltraBase. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8283" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-07-15T10:46:19.167" LastActivityDate="2018-10-11T11:46:03.070" Title="Extruder prints fine up until further down the print" Tags="|extruder|anet-a8|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="13" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5969" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-05-15T02:36:57.383" Score="6" ViewCount="8169" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have not been able to print smooth and round shapes using Cura 3.3.1 (or earlier) without bumps. I think they are seams? The filament is PLA.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Combing is enabled, which I thought makes it so that the nozzle travels over already printed areas, instead of flying over the air...&lt;em&gt;right&lt;/em&gt;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have been able to keep the seems hidden for the most part when there are sharp corners. &lt;em&gt;Sometimes&lt;/em&gt; cura hides the seems properly...sometimes it doesn't. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is an example shape I have tried printing with several different settings:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NrinP.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NrinP.png&quot; alt=&quot;Cura printed object&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The object above was printed using &quot;random&quot; seam corner preference. If I had chosen &quot;sharpest corner&quot;, the bumps would all just stack up in one place, but still stick out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NuTiI.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NuTiI.png&quot; alt=&quot;Cura shape&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JPmd3.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JPmd3.png&quot; alt=&quot;Cura settings 1&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/a5T3w.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/a5T3w.png&quot; alt=&quot;Cura settings 2&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ygxYP.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ygxYP.png&quot; alt=&quot;Cura Settings 3&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Jvuy1.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Jvuy1.png&quot; alt=&quot;Cura settings 4&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just look at the travel lines below! Why is it jumping all over the place?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/73rsT.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/73rsT.png&quot; alt=&quot;Cura travel lines&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gu0TJ.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gu0TJ.png&quot; alt=&quot;Cura travel lines single layer&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have tried &quot;Avoid printed parts when traveling&quot; enabled and disabled, doesn't seem to make much difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I feel that there should be a configuration that results in the nozzle not jumping through the air like that, but I can't find it. Perhaps that's not related to the bumps?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The printer is a MonoPrice Mini Delta.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6261" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-12-10T06:24:17.050" LastActivityDate="2019-12-10T06:24:17.050" Title="Getting bumps/warts on surface, Cura doesn't want to comb?" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|pla|delta|monoprice-mini-delta|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5971" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5973" CreationDate="2018-05-15T10:53:34.563" Score="8" ViewCount="796" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a spool of translucent PLA filament that doesn't work well with the filament sensor on my Prusa i3 MK3. The translucency trips up the sensor, making it think the filament ran out. I thought I'd create a filament profile in Slic3r and disable the sensor in the &quot;Start G-code&quot; block that gets inserted at the beginning of the exported gcode file. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've got the following code:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;M900 K{if printer_notes=~/.*PRINTER_HAS_BOWDEN.*/}200{else}30{endif}; Filament gcode&#xA;M406 ; Disable filament sensor&#xA;M117 Filament sensor OFF&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first line is provided by Prusa's default PLA profile. The second line should disable the sensor, and the third line should print the &quot;Filament sensor OFF&quot; message. If I look in the gcode, it's there:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;G92 E0.0&#xA;M221 S95&#xA;M900 K30; Filament gcode&#xA;M406 ; Disable filament sensor&#xA;M117 Filament sensor OFF&#xA;G21 ; set units to millimeters&#xA;G90 ; use absolute coordinates&#xA;M83 ; use relative distances for extrusion&#xA;;BEFORE_LAYER_CHANGE&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But if I print this gcode file, I see no message, and when checking the sensor in the &quot;Tune&quot; menu while printing, the sensor is still on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I thought I might have a problem with line endings, but looking at the file in a hex editor, all the lines seem to end with a &lt;code&gt;0A&lt;/code&gt; line feed character, including mine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why isn't my printer doing anything with the M406 and M117 messages? Full gcode file &lt;a href=&quot;https://pastebin.com/YDTN2Qes&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8335" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-01-09T10:50:47.283" LastActivityDate="2019-05-08T14:59:52.853" Title="What is wrong with my &quot;disable sensor&quot; gcode?" Tags="|prusa-i3|g-code|slic3r|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5972" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5971" CreationDate="2018-05-15T13:38:16.323" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As per github PR this is not implemented - see &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/prusa3d/Prusa-Firmware/issues/594&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this PR&lt;/a&gt; for details&#xA;Please check if your printer is processing M406 by issuing it manually.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In meantime, a sticker on the sensor will help you to print :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9730" LastActivityDate="2018-05-15T13:38:16.323" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5973" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5971" CreationDate="2018-05-15T13:41:34.727" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;When you download the latest version of &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/prusa3d/Prusa-Firmware/archive/v3.2.0.zip&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;your firmware&lt;/a&gt; you find the implementation of all the codes in &lt;code&gt;Marlin_main.cpp&lt;/code&gt;. Here you see that the M406 is not implemented! Hence it does not work. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2018-05-15T13:41:34.727" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5974" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5796" CreationDate="2018-05-15T14:10:26.267" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Focussing on the questions at hand:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Is it possible to use full steps?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This depends on your printer board. Many boards use dip switches to select the (micro) stepping mode of the stepper driver. E.g. a &lt;a href=&quot;http://reprap.org/wiki/RUMBA#Microstepping&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;RUMBA board&lt;/a&gt; has dip switches located underneath the stepper driver boards (e.g. DRV8825 or A4988). Sometimes you also see jumper caps. &lt;strong&gt;The answer is both yes as is no&lt;/strong&gt; as it depends on the board you are using.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Does it improve accuracy if I use compatible layer height (like 0.04mm,&#xA;  0.08mm, 0.16mm, etc) for my printer with 0.04mm per full step on Z axis?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Increasing the number of microsteps results in reduced &lt;em&gt;incremental&lt;/em&gt; torque (for full step this is 100%, for 16 micro steps this &lt;a href=&quot;https://hackaday.com/2016/08/29/how-accurate-is-microstepping-really/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;drops to about 10%&lt;/a&gt;; this implies that a micro step requested by the controller may not effectively lead to an actual step as it cannot overcome the torque to turn the shaft). So highly loaded steppers could result in positioning errors. Resolution increases but accuracy will actually suffer. Furthermore, &lt;code&gt;Few, if any, stepper motors have a pure sinusoidal torque vs. shaft position and all have higher order harmonics that in fact distort the curve and affect accuracy.&lt;/code&gt; according to &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.micromo.com/technical-library/stepper-motor-tutorials/microstepping-myths-and-realities&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;this source&lt;/a&gt;. On the other hand micro stepping makes rotation go smoother (major advantage, see &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.machinedesign.com/basics-design/microstepping&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;source&lt;/a&gt;). Interesting literature (must read) is &lt;a href=&quot;https://hackaday.com/2016/08/29/how-accurate-is-microstepping-really/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;this test&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.micromo.com/media/wysiwyg/Technical-library/Stepper/6_Microstepping%20WP.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;this paper&lt;/a&gt;.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The answer to this question also depends on the situation;&lt;/strong&gt; when you load the steppers very highly, using micro stepping may result in more inaccurate movement compared to full stepping. When you use the lead screws native resolution for your setup, only when the stepper is actually at the full step position, you would benefit as in this position it will not dwell to the next full step as it is already in the stable position.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a side remark I've added the correct calculation of the native resolution of your lead screws. From your question I deduce that you have Tr8x8(p2) lead screws. &quot;Tr&quot; for trapezoidal thread, followed by the nominal diameter in mm. The digit after the &quot;x&quot; tells you how much the nut advances per revolution, this is called the lead of the screw. The value between the brackets &quot;p2&quot; denotes the pitch. This means that the screw has 8 (lead)/2 (pitch) = 4 starts. So with every revolution of the stepper (200 steps) the nut advances 8 mm which translates to 8/200 = 0.04 mm per step of 1.8°.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-05-16T10:18:19.423" LastActivityDate="2018-05-16T10:18:19.423" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5975" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5951" CreationDate="2018-05-15T14:20:50.897" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Answers above are correct that no plastic mold will work for actual injection molding. Injection molding by definition requires pressure, pressure that would explode a plastic mold. If on the other hand you really just want to print a mold that you can pour epoxy into to get a shape, then you just need to consider a couple factors. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How hot things are going to get since epoxy is exothermic and the thicker the cross section the hotter it'll get.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How to keep the epoxy from sticking. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For issue 1 I would pick the material that's available to you with the highest glass transition temperature so it doesn't melt or deform. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For issue 2 I would use mold release compound before you pour in the epoxy and probably pick the plastic with the lowest surface energy. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10798" LastActivityDate="2018-05-15T14:20:50.897" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5978" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5954" CreationDate="2018-05-17T06:51:50.930" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would suggests to use a heat gun and carefully warm up the PLA to be soft and remove it carefully like a big piece of Play-Doh. &#xA;Using the extruder to heat up the PLA don't sound like the best idea, for me, because the inner PLA will be fluid and it could be a bigger mess than it is up to now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9575" LastActivityDate="2018-05-17T06:51:50.930" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5979" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5952" CreationDate="2018-05-17T06:58:44.800" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had good experience with the support interfaces from CURA. But reduce the thickness of the support interface to be just enough, that a smooth support interface top can be printed and set the top distance so that the model itself can be printed smooth and you can remove the interface easy enough. (I got good results with a thickness of 2-4 layers and a distance of 1-2 layers. &#xA;Important: the real filament thickness should be set in CURA very precisely, else it could lead to hard to remove interface or a not smooth bottom of the model.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9575" LastActivityDate="2018-05-17T06:58:44.800" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5980" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5952" CreationDate="2018-05-17T10:58:10.657" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Materialise Magics (STL fixer) is what I have heard works very well. In the process now of trying to get the boss to buy a seat for use with models being made on a Carbon DLS printer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.materialise.com/en/software/magics&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.materialise.com/en/software/magics&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(keep me posted with what you find out. I am currently in the same boat and exploring options while minimizing cost but also want good software and am willing to pay. makes sense, I know)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit - Netfabb has free software available.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10823" LastEditorUserId="10823" LastEditDate="2018-05-17T13:55:38.703" LastActivityDate="2018-05-17T13:55:38.703" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5981" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5967" CreationDate="2018-05-17T13:46:58.293" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I posted this to an &lt;a href=&quot;https://forums.autodesk.com/t5/meshmixer/can-i-reverse-engineer-a-voronoi-object/td-p/8006487&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Autodesk forum&lt;/a&gt;, and a fellow named &quot;MagWeb&quot; proposed the following solution.  I have not tried it yet. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A possible workflow depends much on the overall shape of the voronoi&#xA;  object:&#xA;  If it's convex  all over (like an egg) or convex and planar (like a&#xA;  cylinder) e.g:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;SelectAll (Ctrl+A or Cmd+A on MAC)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Run Edit/FitPrimitive and set its PrimitiveType to ConvexHull (CreateNewObjects checked)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Run MakeSolid on this hull object and set its SolidType to Accurate. Accurate enables the OffsetDistance slider. Pull it down a bit and hit&#xA;  update. You want to get a result intersecting but showing the voronoi&#xA;  object. If needed adjust the offset. Finally accept.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Now activate both the voronoi and the MakeSolid result and run BooleanUnion&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Show the FitPrimitive object again (MakeSolid did hide it before) and run MakeSolid again in Accurate mode. Now set a slightly bigger&#xA;  offset as you did before. The difference will determine the &quot;lining's&quot;&#xA;  thickness. Accept&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Activate the BoolleanUnion result first and the last MakeSolid result and run BooleanDifference to get a hollow object. You might use&#xA;  another intersecting object to bool-off an opening the bottom.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Harder but doable with a different workflow on an voronoi object&#xA;  owning concave regions...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;edit&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having run some trials, I can confirm this works for simple convex objects. If there are concavities, most likely the source shape needs to be chopped into sections each of which can be treated as convex.&lt;br&gt;&#xA; I played around with Meshmixer's &quot;apply pattern&quot; functions with limited success.  I could get a form-fitting pattern shape but with a rather uneven surface. Some fine-tuning of the pattern parameters may help. Note that the new shape tends to be as thick as the original voronoi object, so it may well be better to do something like the following:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;1) create a duplicate of the original&lt;br&gt;&#xA;2) shrink the duplicate by a few percent&lt;br&gt;&#xA;3) align the two objects to a common origin and take the boolean difference to create a thin-wall version of the original.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;4) Build the pattern object based on that thinwall object.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;edit number 2&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I succeeded!  For those who care, I took an open Voronoi glasses case and put a skin inside to protect your glasses.  See &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3013220&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this Thingiverse item&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2191" LastEditorUserId="2191" LastEditDate="2018-10-25T12:59:57.090" LastActivityDate="2018-10-25T12:59:57.090" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5982" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2018-05-17T16:06:43.547" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2018-05-17T16:06:43.547" LastActivityDate="2018-05-17T16:06:43.547" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5983" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2018-05-17T16:06:43.547" Score="0" Body="Questions using this tag should involve a 3D printer that is manufactured and branded by Monoprice" OwnerUserId="10826" LastEditorUserId="10826" LastEditDate="2018-05-30T16:42:09.040" LastActivityDate="2018-05-30T16:42:09.040" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5986" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5987" CreationDate="2018-05-18T14:20:01.363" Score="10" ViewCount="10073" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had few printing troubles for first layer yesterday (will certainly ask there as soon as I can take photos) but one of the things I've noticed is that the model cooling fan (the fan that is supposed to blow air on the printed model, not the fan that regulates the noozle temperature) is turned off for printing the first layer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's a Dagoma DiscoEasy200, printing PLA on a non-heating bed (blue tape).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wandering down stackexchange, I also read &lt;code&gt;turn off the part fan for the first layer&lt;/code&gt; from &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/5494/10836&quot;&gt;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/5494/10836&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So my question is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;what's the reason behind turning off the part/model-fan for the first layer?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10836" LastEditorUserId="4927" LastEditDate="2018-09-04T10:11:51.877" LastActivityDate="2018-09-06T06:24:16.050" Title="Why turning off model cooling for first layer?" Tags="|print-quality|print-fan|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5987" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5986" CreationDate="2018-05-18T14:30:10.123" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;Filament expands as it gets hot. Cooling the filament will make it shrink, so cooling the filament deposited on the bed can lead to adhesion problems and warping of your products. This is exactly the reason why you use a heated bed (the delta temperature is smaller). So keep the cooling off for the first layers and you'll be fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally (having answered the question for not using cooling air for the first layer), I would like to add that sometimes you won't need &lt;em&gt;any&lt;/em&gt; cooling at all (for other layers), or &lt;em&gt;very little&lt;/em&gt; cooling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please do note that some filaments do not like to be cooled down too fast; this may lead to weaker layer bonding or other issues. E.g. POM filament will harden very quickly when cooled causing the nozzle to bump on the quickly hardened filament knocking the product over. Also I found that too much cooling air when using PETG leads to &quot;string-cheese&quot; products caused by insufficient layer bonding. ABS is reported to be even more sensitive for cooling (shrinkage during cooling is higher than of PLA or PETG filaments); a frequent advice is not to use filament cooling when using ABS filament.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-09-06T06:24:16.050" LastActivityDate="2018-09-06T06:24:16.050" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5988" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-05-18T16:11:15.537" Score="11" ViewCount="15083" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've just installed two TMC2208 drivers on my RAMPS board. I followed a very good step by step tutorial and after some issues, I got it nearly to work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One problem I still have is that when I tell the printer to lift the Z axis by 5 mm, it lifts it by 10 cm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I haven't changed anything regarding the steps/mm. Previously I had the Pololus, with 1/16 microstepping and now I also have 1/16 on configuration_adv.h file on Marlin 1.1.8&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However what I noticed when doing a &lt;code&gt;M122&lt;/code&gt; is a line which reads:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;msteps 256&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;which sounds like the microstepping was set at 1/256 instead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maybe somebody could tell me if I missed something?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;UPDATE:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After some more digging into it, here is what I've done so far:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Solder the pins on the driver. Original from Watterrot&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Solder the bridge pads for enabling UART communication&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Solder the pin for the communication heading upwards&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Change the &lt;code&gt;configuration_adv.h&lt;/code&gt; on Marlin (1.1.8) and enable all that is to enable: USE_TMC2208, Enable debugging, selecting the Z axis, etc&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check the pins on &lt;code&gt;pins_RAMPS.h&lt;/code&gt; and make sure they are available in my setting&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Make a Y cable with the 1 kOhm resistor for the TX pin&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hook everything up&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No matter what I did, the motor moves twice as much as requested. Although I set up 1/16 microstepping, the same I had with my Pololus, I performed the reverse calculation to find out that the actual microstepping on the driver is 1/8.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After more investigation, the issue seems to be that the driver is not recognized at all by the Marlin/Board. Thinking that it was a problem with the TX/RX communication, I dug into the available info out there and I found this, &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/issues/9396&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Bug: TMC2208 UART Communication uses wrong pins for SoftwareSerial #9396&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I proceeded to change the assigned pins for serial RX/TX, but everything is exactly the same.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried a different Arduino (original), another RAMPS board and even the 1.1.x and 2.0 bugfix branches from Marlin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems that the driver is on &amp;quot;legacy&amp;quot; mode and software manipulation is not possible. Although I went through the steps to enable it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8274" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-07-16T17:57:04.563" LastActivityDate="2020-07-16T17:57:04.563" Title="TMC2208 drivers - Microsteps configured incorrectly" Tags="|marlin|ramps-1.4|stepper-driver|microstepping|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5989" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-05-19T08:44:57.100" Score="16" ViewCount="58454" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've made a 9H-printing model tonight, and only a little part of it failed (because a support dropped off). I want to reprint only that little part.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I do that in Cura? &lt;strong&gt;How can I tell Cura to generate a gcode file so only that little part (inside the transparent cube below) will be printed?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hJflC.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hJflC.png&quot; alt=&quot;The part I want to print is the one inside the transparent cube&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've placed the model upside-down on the Cura plate to &quot;cut off&quot; what was well printed. I've made a simple 3D cube model in Blender and placed it so it intersect with the part I want to print (I've set the &quot;mesh type&quot; of that cube to &quot;don't support overlaps&quot; for that). I've tried using &quot;Mesh fixes: disable Union Overlapping Volumes&quot; and the &quot;Merge meshes&quot; option, but the merge aligns the cube origin and the model origin (which I don't want).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What's the proper way to do such partial printing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10836" LastActivityDate="2020-11-19T10:41:59.080" Title="Print only part (fraction) of a model" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|replacement-parts|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5990" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5988" CreationDate="2018-05-19T10:00:03.653" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't have these controllers, but I read that with default settings the TMC2208 will interpolate the microsteps set by the I/O configuration pins to&#xA;256 microsteps. Please look into how you set up the dip switches / jumper caps on your board, it seems that only 2 are used (MS1 and MS2). Furthermore, can't you just decrease the count of the array  &lt;code&gt;DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT&lt;/code&gt; for the Z entry in your configuration file?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-05-19T12:10:19.883" LastActivityDate="2018-05-19T12:10:19.883" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5991" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5989" CreationDate="2018-05-19T11:46:17.493" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;https://community.ultimaker.com/topic/16274-where-is-the-split-part-function-in-cura-321/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;most recent versions of Cura&lt;/a&gt; cannot do that for you. This is a removed feature (or better said: not ported from the old application to the new application), so installing an &lt;a href=&quot;https://community.ultimaker.com/topic/10567-split-objects-into-parts/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;older version of Cura&lt;/a&gt; may work for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively there are many more pieces of (free) software that can do that for you. E.g. MeshMixer or the Slic3r application can do that for you. &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=52DU7ZSRmR0&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;This video&lt;/a&gt; shows a demonstration how to do that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2018-05-19T11:46:17.493" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5996" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6012" CreationDate="2018-05-20T11:34:41.073" Score="4" ViewCount="2335" Body="&lt;p&gt;I noticed that one edge (which is also the starting point of the print) is always bigger than the other three. Additionally, the walls do not have the same thickness as well. The wall thickness (starting from the thick edge) starts very thin and gets thicker till reaching the thick edge again. Does anyone have a clue whats the issue?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oeept.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oeept.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt; &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CEvrT.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CEvrT.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eZmxi.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eZmxi.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10847" LastActivityDate="2018-05-23T20:54:00.170" Title="Uneven wall thickness with test cube" Tags="|prusa-i3|pla|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5997" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6005" CreationDate="2018-05-20T15:36:15.710" Score="5" ViewCount="119" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to build a headrest for my Sayl office chair. For that, I'm designing a 3d-printed part that's going to fit on one of the existing rods of the chair.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check out this picture:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PMzGy.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PMzGy.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How would you go about in getting the exact measurements of that white rod? I tried a caliper, and I'm able to get the width and depth, and I can just assume that the rod's profile is a perfect ellipse, which is probably a close estimate. But say that I want to get a more precise measurement. Is there any technique to do that? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8572" LastActivityDate="2018-05-29T17:43:30.433" Title="Getting precise measurement of a complex rod" Tags="|3d-models|3d-design|scanning|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5998" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5997" CreationDate="2018-05-20T16:57:42.247" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could pull it apart and have it 3d scanned if you want to know the exact dimensions. There are companies that can do that for you at a certain price. Our company has used such services in scanning various parts before we obtained our own laser scanning device. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The question is whether you want exactly the same (dimension wise) part (maybe you do for ecstatic reasons) while a part that is a little more beefier would work also.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit:&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;Although tagged with 3D scanning, the OP did not mention whether he would be able to disassemble the part. 3D scanning is an option when taken apart. Another solution has been posted since.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-05-29T17:43:30.433" LastActivityDate="2018-05-29T17:43:30.433" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5999" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6000" CreationDate="2018-05-20T23:14:38.813" Score="6" ViewCount="1439" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a problem with my first layer height. But lets start at the beginning:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I own a Tevo Tarantula Dual extruder printer with a endstop switch for Z axis. &#xA;No Auto bed level. 0.4mm nozzle.&#xA;Everything worked as it should. I home extruder with G28 command and level the bed using a piece of paper or a thickness gauge 0.1mm. In the slicer I set Initial layer height 0.2mm for layer height 0.1mm. The fisrt Layer looked perfect and sticked to the bed fine.&#xA;a few days ago it stopped in the middle of a print, nozzle clogged.&#xA;No problem i changed the nozzle to a spare one i had. It is not the first time i took it apart.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here starts my problem:&#xA;After everything was build together again i home the extruder with G28, level the bed and start a print with the same settings i usualy used to print.&#xA;But either the first layer didn't stick to the bed at all or looks terrible.&#xA;i tried to level the bed again and also tried to get it to work with playing with the settings. But with no satisfactorily results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is is the part my Question starts:&#xA;I noticed that the first layer is actually not at the same Z=0 if i use G28 to home and the Z0 it shows when i print a part.&#xA;For example: &#xA;Set G28 Level bed with 0.1mm thickness gauge.&#xA;Then start printing with layer height 0.1mm and initial layer height setting 0.2mm&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The result should be 0.1+0.1+0.2 =0.4 real layer height (if i also count the 0.1 layer heigth(not sure if this is correct)) the printer shows here a Z of 0.2&#xA;But if i meassure it, it is around 0.7mm thats way to much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oIJeL.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oIJeL.png&quot; alt=&quot;hope this makes my more clear&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am confused why this is the case after i changed the nozzle. Considering i leveled the bed the exact same way i did before and used the same slicer.&#xA;The new nozzle is a little bit shorter but i made sure both nozzle of the dual extruder have the same height. &#xA;I do not understand why this happens. Is there a way to reset the Z? &#xA;I tried the M851 code but as far as i understand it, it i used for Auto-Bed leveling. It didn't work anyway, says unknown command.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I could work around the problem by adjust the endstop until it somehow works, but then if i want to level the bed and use the G28 code the nozzle would crash into the bed and that is not a satisfactory solution.&#xA;Would it suffice to set a z-offset in the firmware? I don't have much experience on that area.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;;FLAVOR:Marlin&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  ;TIME:737&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  ;Filament used: 0.351177m&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  ;Layer height: 0.1&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  ;Generated with Cura_SteamEngine 3.2.0&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  M190 S47&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  M104 S197&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  M109 S197&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  M82 ;absolute extrusion mode&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  G21 ;metric values&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  G90 ;absolute positioning&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  M82 ;set extruder to absolute mode&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  M107 ;start with the fan off&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  G28 X0 Y0 ;move X/Y to min endstops&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  G28 Z0 ;move Z to min endstops&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  G1 Z15.0 F9000 ;move the platform down 15mm&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  G92 E0 ;zero the extruded length&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  G1 F200 E3 ;extrude 3mm of feed stock&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  G92 E0 ;zero the extruded length again&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  G1 F9000&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  ;Put printing message on LCD screen&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  M117 Printing...&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  ;LAYER_COUNT:9&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  ;LAYER:0&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  M107&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  M204 S2200&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  G0 F3000 X75.185 Y64.596 Z0.2&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  M204 S1750&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  ;TYPE:SKIRT &#xA;  G1 F1650 X76.267 Y63.316 E0.06132  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10850" LastEditorUserId="10850" LastEditDate="2018-05-21T11:44:47.530" LastActivityDate="2018-05-24T13:40:19.110" Title="First layer height problem after changing nozzle" Tags="|z-axis|calibration|layer-height|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6000" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5999" CreationDate="2018-05-21T08:22:53.503" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;this is a common case in my TT....&#xA;Please check the y-carriage wheels - on the 2040 and 2020 profile.&#xA;Mostly you shall find a little wobble on one of the ends, that introduces instability in leveling, so you could level it, home it and another level is needed. &#xA;In my case, I decided to upgrade for dual-z drive - &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2014187&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;please see this&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another interesting Z upgrade:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2163949&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;option two&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We can observe z-wobble by watching the x-axis on the left side (no lead screw), it will have a little delay in response when moving up/down comparing to the other side. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9730" LastEditorUserId="9730" LastEditDate="2018-05-24T13:40:19.110" LastActivityDate="2018-05-24T13:40:19.110" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6002" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5996" CreationDate="2018-05-21T14:19:11.663" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;As Fernando suggests, the problem is likely with your source file.  One easy way to verify this is to slice twice, rotating the STL by 90 degrees.  If both prints produce fat/thin sides in the same dimension on the print bed, then it's a printer problem.  If the fat side rotated with the STL orientation, then the STL is at fault. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2191" LastActivityDate="2018-05-21T14:19:11.663" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6004" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5997" CreationDate="2018-05-21T18:28:07.003" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You need to disasemble the part and measure it with special equipment, a caliper can help but only as reference since the part has an angled shape.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I recommend to use an optical comparator (base shadows) with this you can have X and Y data to calculate the angle and curves. If you want more precise measurements you can try an Optical Measurement Device (based camera), this also can give you Z but X and Y will help you a lot. Both equipments use a system called Quadra Chek many industries has at least one of this to assure his quality due meets all requirements for Ford GDT guides (geometric dimensional tolerances). no matter the manufacturer brand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I´ve tried to measure with the phone or table application but is hardly to calibrate on each required dimension. I had to buy an optical comparator.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4454" LastActivityDate="2018-05-21T18:28:07.003" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6005" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5997" CreationDate="2018-05-22T05:42:52.507" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In an earlier comment you stated that you cannot take it apart. So without taking it apart, you could try to determine the profile the old-fashion way with a piece of cardboard and a short pencil, just cut the rough shape of the rod and place it onto the rod, then take the short pencil and draw the profile onto the cardboard with the pencil parallel to the rod. Measuring the distance from the pencil center to the pencil radius will give you the profile of the rod with that off-set. This technique, or the technique used to create &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w9FlfMIMv7Q&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;notches in logs&lt;/a&gt; for log cabins may be used to find the profile at various sections which have to be entered in a 3D CAD model program and splined/lofted to get the surface of the rod.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively you could use a profile shape tool carpenters use: &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NZyN8.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NZyN8.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-05-22T10:29:38.260" LastActivityDate="2018-05-22T10:29:38.260" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6008" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5869" CreationDate="2018-05-22T21:26:08.857" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well. First. If you ever think, hmm this might cause an explosion. DON'T DO IT. SERIOUSLY. Modify the design so you can insert the battery. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, most softwares will let you set a heater temp per layer. I have mine set through simplify 3d. I usually use this setting for the hot end, as I like to have the first layer hot. You will have bad results doing this with the bed as you will likely cause the print to expand or shrink enough to pop off. You are better not using the heated bed for the print than to turn it off. Look into rafts as well. That is how makerbot helps mitigate their heatless beds. A fan will also help..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;AGAIN do not try anything that can possibly might blow something up. There are a lot of variables you do not know, such as how conductive the plastic is and how much will travel through the hotend to the battery. Or how off the specs are for this battery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2146" LastActivityDate="2018-05-22T21:26:08.857" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6009" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5869" CreationDate="2018-05-23T10:27:27.183" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Discharge the battery entirely, then there is no danger of ignition if the membrane breaks. The battery cells are usually protected by Kapton tape (LiPo) or maybe even metal (LiIon). Both will withstand the temperature of 240°C. The downside is that the cells are damaged after a deep discharge. You should discard the battery afterwards. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What I would expect when you do that:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A deeply discharged battery will bloat up because the solvents will gas out. This will also happen if you heat up the battery enough (&gt;&gt;60 degree). The gases themselves can be ignited again but are captured in our air sealed Kapton envelope :) Igniting these gases will be comparable to a short flash with a spray can. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The temperature is not enough to damage the envelope. The solvents will be also not very dangerous in that temperature range. In case of mechanical breakdown of the membrane nothing will happen anymore. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.sigmaaldrich.com/materials-science/material-science-products.html?TablePage=107476223&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Solvents and Additives&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HgIFF.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Solvents and Additives&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HgIFF.png&quot; alt=&quot;Solvents and Additives&quot; title=&quot;Solvents and Additives&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10847" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-10-12T16:19:23.560" LastActivityDate="2018-10-12T16:19:23.560" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6010" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3304" CreationDate="2018-05-23T16:19:38.523" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your printer is over extruding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It looks like PLA on the photo, the preset multiplier in S3D is 0.90 (not 1.0!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The nozzle diameter should be the same as the extrusion width (both 0.40).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you set the width to auto you get a bigger width. I don't really know why, but it was told me so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you print 1.75 mm you have to measure it and (the actual diameter is often around 1.78 mm, maybe less too). The multiplier of 0.9 is because PLA is softer then ABS for example. Maybe you should try other multipliers as well, maybe down to 0.85 in 0.01 steps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope you can figure this problem out. I am experimenting by myself for days now to get it as sharp as possible. The goal is to get an edge with the diameter of the nozzle - not a bit more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10876" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-05-23T20:20:13.287" LastActivityDate="2018-05-23T20:20:13.287" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6011" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-05-23T18:40:36.633" Score="4" ViewCount="76" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a model where several solids are linked with chains. The original design contains a lot of empty space. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am looking for software, which can automatically move the solids and fold the chains such that the total build volume gets smaller (total build volume is a major cost driver on shapeways.com). Obviously, the topology of the design must not change, i.e., it should be possible to return the model to the original state without breaking chains. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried &lt;a href=&quot;https://docs.blender.org/manual/en/dev/game_engine/physics/types/rigid_body.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Blender - Rigid Body Physics&lt;/a&gt;, but that has stability issues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10878" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-06-29T07:14:08.647" LastActivityDate="2018-06-29T07:14:08.647" Title="Efficient packing of models with chains" Tags="|3d-design|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6012" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5996" CreationDate="2018-05-23T20:54:00.170" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This happens when you have poor retraction / oozing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Signs of too high temp and poor retraction&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Thick blob at start point, meaning moltin plastic is oozing out as you change Z position&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;As you see at the end of the line less material, you prematurely oozed out liquid plastic. As the melt zone is depeleated you get thinner lines.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Solutions&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Increase retraction distance. This will remove the plastic from the melt zone and prevent some of the oozing.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Speed up Z axis lower and raising. Or decrease distances&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lower temps. Start with 3 cel increments. You want to go as low as you can without causing print defects.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will likely need to do 1 and 3. 2 you really shouldn't need after you fix your temps. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2146" LastActivityDate="2018-05-23T20:54:00.170" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6013" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-05-23T22:28:22.280" Score="5" ViewCount="2496" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am working on a design in OpenSCAD, and need (would want) two things that seem tedious to hand-code:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;A pattern of holes in a wall, for less weight/material. Could be round holes or some geometric pattern.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Empty enclosed space, with some grid-structure for stability. Again, for saving weight/material (and time during the printing).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any libraries for these things?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9201" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-05-24T09:08:51.477" LastActivityDate="2021-11-15T22:37:43.413" Title="OpenSCAD library for empty space/holes" Tags="|3d-models|3d-design|openscad|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6014" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5989" CreationDate="2018-05-24T02:25:33.333" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't know if this helps but&#xA;download blender 3d, install&#xA;expoert your models as stl&#xA;import as stl file&#xA;enter into edit mode with tab key&#xA;and delete everything else&#xA;export as stl (maybe would have to set the scale to 100)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10882" LastActivityDate="2018-05-24T02:25:33.333" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6015" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6013" CreationDate="2018-05-24T06:27:17.700" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not aware of libraries that do that for you (but you can create your own, see end of the answer), but creating a relieve hole pattern is not that difficult or tedious using &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikibooks.org/wiki/OpenSCAD_User_Manual/Conditional_and_Iterator_Functions&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;iterator functions&lt;/a&gt; (e.g. the &lt;code&gt;for loop&lt;/code&gt;). Note that it may not be a good idea to make enclosed holes inside your object, see the bottom section &amp;quot;Internal cavities in models&amp;quot; at the bottom of the answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Small OpenSCAD test script:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt; tol=0.2;&#xA; &#xA; difference(){&#xA;   cube([100,100,10]);&#xA;   for (x=[10:20:90]){&#xA;     for (y=[10:20:90]){&#xA;       translate([x,y,-tol/2]){&#xA;         cylinder(r=9,h=10+tol,$fn=180);&#xA;       }&#xA;     }&#xA;   }&#xA; }&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RUMaM.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RUMaM.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This can be used for both parts of your question, but in case the pattern needs to be inside an object you need to lower the value of &lt;code&gt;h&lt;/code&gt; in the subtracting cylinder and raise/translate it (you could use the &lt;code&gt;center=true&lt;/code&gt; in the &lt;code&gt;cylinder&lt;/code&gt; function as a parameter and raise the center to the middle of your object &lt;code&gt;translate([x,y,objectThickness/2])&lt;/code&gt;). You could make a &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikibooks.org/wiki/OpenSCAD_User_Manual/User-Defined_Functions_and_Modules&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;code&gt;module&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/a&gt; of the recurring pattern yourself to create your library.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;note: Replace &lt;code&gt;cylinder&lt;/code&gt; with &lt;code&gt;cube&lt;/code&gt; or any &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikibooks.org/wiki/OpenSCAD_User_Manual/Primitive_Solids&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;other geometrical solid&lt;/a&gt; or (2D) pattern (use &lt;code&gt;linear_extrude&lt;/code&gt;) to subtract from your part.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Internal cavities in models&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that it is not always wise to create your own spacing/grid structure enclosed in the model. Please read the accepted answer of &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/182/why-do-some-models-appear-broken-in-slicing-software&quot;&gt;this question&lt;/a&gt;. This answer explains that slicer applications work best with true solids!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-11-15T22:37:43.413" LastActivityDate="2021-11-15T22:37:43.413" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6016" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-05-24T08:09:34.493" Score="5" ViewCount="4985" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been having this problem with my delta 3D printer where my nozzle isn't moving flat with my print bed (as if the bed is bent) but I have used the edge of my steel ruler and it seems to be perfectly flat. I have properly leveled my bed with a piece of paper and have checked the whole printer to make sure it's square but the problem continues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What else could be the problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Addition info (from comments)&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The gap grows and shrinks in a parabolic manner and it makes it impossible to get a good first layer. the printer is a FLsun Delta Kossel. The links don't appear to be loose. Is there a way I could share a video?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Upon further inspection I found a bit of play in one of the links, I tightened the bolt and the play is gone but it didn't fix the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have been playing around a bit and I found that the nozzle is closer to the bed in the center than it is near the edge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did some research and it's a calibration issue but I have no idea how to fix it. Does anyone know a quick and easy way to calibrate a Kossel Delta 3D printer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10884" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:29:41.667" LastActivityDate="2018-11-03T05:48:10.577" Title="Delta printer nozzle not moving square with a perfectly level bed (as if the bed is bent... but it isn't)" Tags="|delta|bed-leveling|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6017" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4230" CreationDate="2018-05-24T12:29:41.330" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;This was a comment from the OP, which effectively answers their own question:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Installing new Marlin 1.1.3;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Changing the Maximum Acceleration on Z down to 20, and; &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Changing Acceleration and Retract Acceleration down to 1000.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have now a printout that measures 24.65 mm (0.65 mm higher than it should) and good enough for me to say, this is OK.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4762" LastActivityDate="2018-05-24T12:29:41.330" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2018-05-24T12:29:41.330" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6018" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6034" CreationDate="2018-05-24T13:43:25.600" Score="4" ViewCount="433" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've just purchased an Alladinbox SkyCube 3D that I want to use to print board game miniatures and other fun stuff.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, the instructions do not give the settings I need to put into software like Ultimaker Cura, and this is where I need some help so that I can generate the G-code files from models I download from MyMiniFactory.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know it uses PLA and the extrusion temperature should be 210°C. However, I need help with the other settings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can someone please point me in the right direction? Is there a better software I could be using? Where can I find settings?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;UPDATE: For those wondering &quot;what&quot; settings, I would probably start with the printer and extruder specifications. The following is my best guess.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FXKEP.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Machine settings - Printer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FXKEP.png&quot; alt=&quot;Machine settings - Printer&quot; title=&quot;Machine settings - Printer&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4BVaF.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Machine settings - Extruder1&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4BVaF.png&quot; alt=&quot;Machine settings - Extruder1&quot; title=&quot;Machine settings - Extruder1&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm basing these settings on the device specs on this page:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.gearbest.com/3d-printers-3d-printer-kits/pp_969800.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Link to Alladinbox specs&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10887" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-05-24T17:39:22.297" LastActivityDate="2019-01-19T16:09:47.283" Title="Cura printer settings for Alladinbox SkyCube 3D" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6019" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6018" CreationDate="2018-05-24T13:57:39.530" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ultimaker Cura comes with pre-defined profiles for various materials. PLA filament is present in between them. This could be a good starting point to derive your specific profile for your own material. To do we usually print test objects and look at the quality of the product. Test prints can consist of simple X-Y-Z test cubes, temperature towers, retraction test prints, a &quot;Benchy&quot; or many more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Generally 210 degC is pretty high for PLA, but may sometimes be necessary when printing high speeds. Just copying the material profiles from someone else may not work for you as it might involve different printer brands and even within the filament brands variations in between rolls of a single line may require additional tweaking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit:&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;The original question appeared to hint at material settings, but the OP changed the question, hinting on printer settings with accompanying screenshots how to setup the printer in Cura. However, the OP's answer (that the OP accepted) also includes material and other slicing settings (infill, layer height, speed). To help other people I undeleted my answer which discusses using the standard Cura profiles to work on to make your own derivatives.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-05-29T17:36:12.140" LastActivityDate="2018-05-29T17:36:12.140" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6020" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6018" CreationDate="2018-05-24T14:03:57.883" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;To start printing with Cura, you can select standard printer (aka Prusa i3) and set the x,y,z dimensions in the machine properties window -  it is a safe point to start.&#xA;Then you could print a test cube and try to dial in with speed/temperature setting to get the best quality.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Q4TIp.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Q4TIp.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9730" LastActivityDate="2018-05-24T14:03:57.883" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6021" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-05-24T14:51:36.160" Score="7" ViewCount="1125" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a model that has walls with a volume of 0.00mm that I want to extrude so I can 3D Print it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was unable to convert it into a normal body in order to extrude it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition I was unable to figure out what kind of body type this is, here a picture.&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iNAqc.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iNAqc.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And here a Picture of the Model.&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0O8nZ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0O8nZ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I extrude these walls? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10889" LastActivityDate="2018-08-09T16:48:13.040" Title="Extruding a (wall?) in Fusion 360?" Tags="|3d-models|software|extrusion|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6022" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6025" CreationDate="2018-05-24T15:12:23.967" Score="4" ViewCount="126" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to print a structure that I can embed in a resin and later dissolve. I know that some fancy 3D printing systems have raft materials etc., that can be printed and later removed easily. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can any one suggest a 3D printing material that can be dissolved in say water or another readily available solvent?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7611" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2019-05-04T07:27:51.500" LastActivityDate="2019-05-04T07:27:51.500" Title="3D printing template material" Tags="|support-material|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6023" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6022" CreationDate="2018-05-24T15:34:29.217" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;ABS dissolves in acetone. Indeed actone can be used to clean up 3D prints, see &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/4235/whats-smoother-acetone-treated-pla-or-abs/&quot;&gt;What&amp;#39;s smoother? Acetone treated PLA or ABS&lt;/a&gt;. PLA maybe not somuch as ABS, see the same post.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PLA dissolves in any chlorinated or fluorinated solvent, such as THF or Chloroform - both of which are significantly more hazardous than acetone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hence, as always &lt;strong&gt;take care&lt;/strong&gt; when using solvents, see &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/81/safety-precautions-when-using-acetone/278#278&quot;&gt;Safety precautions when using acetone&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, as filaments are often not pure ABS or PLA, due to additives and dyes, etc., then the solvent may not dissolve the 3D printed part &lt;em&gt;completely&lt;/em&gt;, and you may be left with a deformed, rubbery residue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4762" LastActivityDate="2018-05-24T15:34:29.217" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6024" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6011" CreationDate="2018-05-24T15:39:21.507" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is relatively easy to do in any CAD/mesh software.  For example, if you load import the model into Meshmixer, you can select a given solid and N links of chain connected to it (using &quot;expand selection to groups&quot; or similar to be safe). Then use the &quot;Separate&quot; command to allow you to move/rotate that subset on its own. All you have to do is make sure the two chain links at the point of rotation remain disjunct.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Once you've moved everything around, just SelectAll and export. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2191" LastActivityDate="2018-05-24T15:39:21.507" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6025" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6022" CreationDate="2018-05-24T16:14:37.087" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Wash-away filament used for support in PLA printing is typically PVA, which is completely water soluble and may serve your purpose. It is easily 3D printed as the primary filament and attaches well to the build plate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many 3D printer filament suppliers will carry this type of support material. It is important to keep it in a sealed bag with desiccant as it will absorb moisture from the air, rendering it useless for printing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One such resource is &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.matterhackers.com/store/l/175mm-pva-filament-half-kg/sk/M4MJTECR&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;MatterHackers&lt;/a&gt; which prices a half-kilogram at US$45. The link provides suitably appropriate information:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;PVA (Polyvinyl Alcohol) is a water-soluble material that is often used&#xA;  as a support material, but can also be used to print independently.&#xA;  PVA supports are useful for complex designs where removing support&#xA;  material manually is difficult or impossible, but leaving the part in&#xA;  a water bath overnight will completely dissolve this material.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2ytSy.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2ytSy.png&quot; alt=&quot;PVA filament&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastActivityDate="2018-05-24T16:14:37.087" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6026" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6032" CreationDate="2018-05-25T00:23:27.163" Score="5" ViewCount="4620" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ok so I am trying to print a new fusion 360 file that I converted into an STL and then into gcode using cura and I got the gcode loaded onto the SD card and mounted into my Monoprice 3D printer, Maker Select 3D Printer v2, and tried to do a print. Now here is the strange part. When I choose &quot;print file&quot; and then select a gcode to print it takes me back to the main screen and from there the 3D printers screen displays &quot;Printing...0%&quot; for a few seconds. After this it just goes back to displaying &quot;Stepper Disabled.&quot; And if it is not stepper disabled it is just a blank screen. I tried to mount and print multiple gcodes just to make sure that it was not the softwares fault and low and behold I was running into the same issue. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now before using today all of the gcode was printing just fine, however for some reason today it decided to give me this issue. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10894" LastEditorUserId="233" LastEditDate="2018-05-25T16:00:06.827" LastActivityDate="2018-05-25T16:00:06.827" Title="Problem with 3D printer not accepting new print gcodes" Tags="|g-code|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6027" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6029" CreationDate="2018-05-25T01:19:10.300" Score="5" ViewCount="856" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to render a visual of an mesh I created with a real support structure that a 3d printer would print. I haven't had any luck in finding a way to do this. Is there a program (ideally free) that can generate the proper support structure and export it into a mesh format, like .stl or .obj ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10895" LastActivityDate="2018-05-25T07:46:02.370" Title="How can I generate and export the support structure for an object as a mesh?" Tags="|3d-models|support-structures|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6028" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6026" CreationDate="2018-05-25T07:40:25.843" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;As you found out, sometimes the SD cards need reformating. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And if they came with the printer they could be fake (Fake capacity), when you try to upload more than its real capacity they will just corrupt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My Anet A8 came with an 8GB SD card and it turned out to be 128 mb. With &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.rmprepusb.com&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;RMPrepUSB&lt;/a&gt; you can do a capacity test and format it to the real capacity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9988" LastActivityDate="2018-05-25T07:40:25.843" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6029" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6027" CreationDate="2018-05-25T07:46:02.370" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could try &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.meshmixer.com&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Meshmixer&lt;/a&gt; its free and the supports generated with it are embedded into the 3D model.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.instructables.com/id/Meshmixer-Generate-Supports/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Here&lt;/a&gt; you can find a reference on Meshmixer supports. Meshmixer is well known for making custom supports for complex 3D models.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9988" LastActivityDate="2018-05-25T07:46:02.370" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6030" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6044" CreationDate="2018-05-25T08:11:14.310" Score="8" ViewCount="8491" Body="&lt;p&gt;Was anyone able to connect the default Anet A8 (2004) display to a MKS GEN L? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've tried direct connection with re-wiring, and see white squares there, but I'm only able to see white squares on the screen as on screenshot:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xc0x9.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;White squares on the image&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xc0x9.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;White squares on the image&quot; title=&quot;White squares on the image&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wiring:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RjQdZ.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Wiring&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RjQdZ.png&quot; alt=&quot;Wiring&quot; title=&quot;Wiring&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The code that is currently used for the display :&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;code&gt;Config.h&lt;/code&gt; uses &lt;code&gt;#define ZONESTAR_LCD&lt;/code&gt;. &#xA;Also &lt;code&gt;#define MOTHERBOARD BOARD_MKS_GEN_L&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Config_adv.h uses &lt;code&gt;#define LCD_PROGRESS_BAR&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Pins were left as they were in config file.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also I've tried replacing them with this numbering (which comes from MKS spec):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;35  16  25  29  5V&#xA;37  17  23  27  GND&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10896" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-05-26T20:04:21.353" LastActivityDate="2020-10-16T14:24:17.667" Title="Connecting (Anet A8) 2004 display to MKS GEN L" Tags="|anet-a8|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6031" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6016" CreationDate="2018-05-25T11:24:28.607" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Delta radius controls how the print head moves from the outside to the center.  From the comment you posted, it sounds like your radius is too large which is causing it to hit in the center and you need to make it smaller to bring the center up.  This is not always a number you can directly change as it is sometimes calculated using other offsets so you will need to find that in your firmware.  Also after doing this you're likely going to need to adjust endstops for each tower again or the Z travel to fix your 0 point.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would recommend following the steps listed &lt;a href=&quot;https://web.archive.org/web/20180324104527/http://minow.blogspot.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; for your calibration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="233" LastActivityDate="2018-05-25T11:24:28.607" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6032" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6026" CreationDate="2018-05-25T11:34:10.820" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Determined Solution &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ok so after an hour or so of searching and trying to figure this out, I found that the best to deal with this is by reformating the SD Card once the problem starts. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now I had to make sure that I made a backup of all the files so that I could recover them once the process was complete. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also please note that the problem may have been with one of the files on the SD Card so backing up the SD Card and then restoring the files from your place of storage for the SD card may or may not work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, this problem and solution were done on a Monoprice 3D Printer V2 so I am not sure how this would work with any other 3D printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10894" LastEditorUserId="10894" LastEditDate="2018-05-25T11:55:52.873" LastActivityDate="2018-05-25T11:55:52.873" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6033" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="938" CreationDate="2018-05-25T23:29:52.077" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes. These settings work for Ultimaker as well.  Set the printer to print PLA, and put brown tape on the bed under the print.  Set the layer to 0.1 mm, set the initial layer to 0.1 mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't over heat the PP or when it cools it will shrink tons making it want to peel off. PLUS if you don't let the PP go below its T&lt;sub&gt;g&lt;/sub&gt; (80°C) by making the bed too hot it will stay molten and eventually stick to the nozzle making a truly pants print, and probably detach itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have been making tiny detailed little components with PP this evening, just about to put 21 on to make and then off to bed!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Update:&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sorry, PLA settings on the UM is 210°C for Hotend. I am making round PCB spacers, so these are best with a 100% infill and a concentric fill pattern. Also, I recalibrated the platform with a very thin post-it note which is about 50% of the thickness of the UM calibration card. It makes sense to just get the PP soft enough to extrude, in fact I am seeing turbulence at the beginning when the extruder runs some material through the molten material has a curly cable appearance. Like this the material beds itself right into the tape. Lovely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10901" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:29:41.667" LastActivityDate="2018-06-28T13:51:47.290" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6034" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6018" CreationDate="2018-05-26T04:36:39.330" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Okay, after some research and experimentation, I've come up with some settings that seem to work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Firstly, some specs about the Alladinbox SkyCube 3D:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Firmware: Marlin&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Nozzle diameter: 0.4 mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Nozzle speed: 20 to 70 mm/s&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Layer thickness: 0.1 to 0.4 mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Printing area: 110 x 110 x 125 mm (WLH)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: There is NO cooling fan present and the base is NOT heated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now for the actual printing settings... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm using the PLA supplied with the printer so far, and it works well at a nozzle temperature of 210C. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm printing at 0.2 mm per layer, which seems to afford to a good level of detail. I've printed a scanned Greco-Roman basin, and the details are very nice indeed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So far I'm using a 20% line filling, and this seems to give the structure a good solidity and strength. I'm also operating the nozzle at its maximum speed of 70 mm/s and it seems to work just fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously, I'm still experiments, and different materials may require different settings, but overall I'm very happy. I hope this post helps someone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10887" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-01-19T16:09:47.283" LastActivityDate="2019-01-19T16:09:47.283" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6035" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-05-26T05:45:59.923" Score="5" ViewCount="2035" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am using 2 extruders. Is it possible to use them both at the same time.&#xA;Now I can use one at a time but not both at the same time.&#xA;Is there a gcode that supports this action?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10903" LastActivityDate="2018-05-29T15:49:23.027" Title="I want to use my 2 extruders simultaneously" Tags="|extruder|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6036" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3877" CreationDate="2018-05-26T06:15:49.607" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think my PTFE shaft is in reverse when it was assembled and sent out. One side is the metal shaft only the other side the PTFE inner shaft.  I read about filament shavings from poor feeding, so it wouldn't make sense initial feeder takes on hard metal where it might shave it and obstruct ease, also the nozzle and the filament must need well heat so it doesn't make sense the PTFE is screwed in nearest the nozzle, rather the metal should conduct against it.  Thus also the thermal reading would be off from it not applied to the actual filament just around it.  In bike breaks it's to prevent the scraping of the metal chord against the metal housing upon where it exists the housing.  One of the video's suggested using twisty ties for the belt as well, with four extra pieces same as two which are used on the track at the bed, a non one time use disposable clamp can be made with extra screws, for each instead of the twisty ties, so it stands to reason likely however it maybe the sales/distribution form manufacture has poor communication or not at all instructions is how these discrepancies arrive.  IN MY OPINION.  Reverse the shaft from extrude to the nozzle if you don't see Teflon at the extrude part, I have not tested it myself yet, but I'm going to.  My unit as well seems poor ability to print at all. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10905" LastActivityDate="2018-05-26T06:15:49.607" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6037" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6035" CreationDate="2018-05-26T06:43:59.013" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;To print with 2 extruders simultaneously you need a firmware that supports that. Luckily, there is a firmware called Sailfish that is able to do that. The feature you are looking for is called &lt;code&gt;Ditto&lt;/code&gt; printing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sailfish firmware is found &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sailfishfirmware.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-05-26T15:58:08.150" LastActivityDate="2018-05-26T15:58:08.150" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6038" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6035" CreationDate="2018-05-26T08:33:50.610" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;That depends what you want to achieve.&#xA;If you want to get a clone of your thing then - 0scar answer is a go for it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In early days, I was thinking that this could speed up my printing, if both extrudes could work simultaneously - a piece here, a piece there on the same layer. But then I realized that this will be a good source of oozing (even with retraction a nozzle can touch already printed area by another nozzle) so my printout could get material drops.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Moreover, in most cases, we don't want to have one color printout scratched by another nozzle as that also decreases quality and visual outlook of printed thing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From hardware point - there could be more strain on the CPU to drive next stepper (depends on the solution) and that can lead to slower printing alltogether.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9730" LastActivityDate="2018-05-26T08:33:50.610" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6039" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-05-26T12:40:06.847" Score="5" ViewCount="470" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently saw &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TpvNEZCvk84&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; video of super-swellable polymer and felt inspired. Printing a swellable structure would be sort of interesting. However, sodium polyacrylate isn't a printable material. Does anyone know of a material that is? Preferably, swelling activated by water. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7611" LastActivityDate="2018-07-30T02:27:35.093" Title="3D Printing of a Swellable Material" Tags="|print-material|support-structures|support-material|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6040" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4819" CreationDate="2018-05-26T19:37:31.570" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Slice your model... then edit the code in &lt;strong&gt;Notepad&lt;/strong&gt;... where you will see that you will need to replace all &lt;code&gt;E&lt;/code&gt; (extrude commands) with &lt;code&gt;M3&lt;/code&gt; for Extrude on and/or &lt;code&gt;M5&lt;/code&gt; for Extrude off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You must look at the code and figure out where:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The code is telling the extruder to extrude; &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Then it makes a bunch of XY moves; t&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Then, where it tells the extruder to stop, you have to insert an &lt;code&gt;M5&lt;/code&gt; command.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did this a year ago and got mine to work perfectly but it takes time to edit the code. Be patient and keep at it .&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10908" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-05-26T19:49:43.520" LastActivityDate="2018-05-26T19:49:43.520" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6041" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-05-26T22:41:12.177" Score="5" ViewCount="331" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have had problems with items sticking on the build plate, especially when they were big (as they didn't stick well, they corners warped -&gt; all kind of problems).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also wanted to upgrade my printer (Scratch XYCore-Bowden) to have the ability to use flexible filament so first I modified my extruder motor/cog-wheel so it pushes the filament straight into the Bowden tube (classic modification).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This worked okay for small parts (as was the case with PLA).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The heat-bed seems to flex when heating in an uniform manner so it's not perfectly flat which means the Marlin 3-point test doesn't work out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To alleviate this I added a borosilicate glass on top of the heat bed for perfect 'flatness', but the inductive sensor didn't reach through those extra 3&amp;nbsp;mm of the glass, so I bought another inductive sensor (old was 4&amp;nbsp;mm LJ12A3-4-Z/BY PNP with a voltage divider, new is 8&amp;nbsp;mm NPN) and this started to function somehow:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As the sensor doesn't sense the surface (or the glass at all), but senses the heatbed under, which isn't either flat nor stable according to temperature, I added aluminium tape under the glass pane. This actually works perfectly well!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now I am able to tune in the first layer distance really well, but still the flex filament floats around on the glass so I added blue painters tape which makes it work, very very well!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All well for flex printing!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Switched to PLA (which always worked okay whatever some small errors in print height, and not too wide items) and I have all pieces sticking to the bed in a manner &lt;strong&gt;I just cant get them off...&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They get big scratches from the pincers, get broken, etc.,...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have tried:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Pincers (works for some items, doesn't work for some. About always makes marks);&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Ripping off the blue painter tape (the tape was removed everywhere except where the item was stuck. Plus now I have to add new tape);&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Chuck the build plate in the freezer for an hour. It helps a lot but:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Still not easy to remove without making marks;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It's a serious hassle;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It's also a time waster.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;My question is:&lt;/strong&gt; How can you both reliably print and remove your item without breaking it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Little image of the last part that I broke (the square impact in the middle is after ripping of the &quot;hook&quot; from this hanger when I tried to detach it from the heat bed), as it didn't work at all I had to put it in the freezer for an hour or so to be able to remove the rest:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BbbjJ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Print damaged during removal&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BbbjJ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Print damaged during removal&quot; title=&quot;Print damaged during removal&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8328" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-06-06T15:25:53.533" LastActivityDate="2019-08-12T02:51:10.940" Title="How can you both reliably print and remove your item, without breaking it when detaching it?" Tags="|post-processing|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6042" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6041" CreationDate="2018-05-27T04:58:19.887" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;If your print is sticking too well, try printing directly onto the glass.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;If then, your print isn't sticking well enough, try using something like a glue stick instead.&#xA;Most people use a paint scraper (&lt;a href=&quot;https://mobileimages.lowes.com/product/converted/820909/820909561316.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;a small one, like this&lt;/a&gt;) to remove prints from build surfaces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6996" LastActivityDate="2018-05-27T04:58:19.887" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6043" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="182" CreationDate="2018-05-27T16:47:04.853" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the cad software, it could be that your normals are reversed or inconsistent. Recently I used Cinema4D to export some models, and the faces were acting super weird in the slicer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I mean by 'reversed normals' is that your polygon faces could be oriented inward. Some slicing softwares don't care about that, and treat both sides of each face equally. In those that observe reverse normals, faces may be completely invisible, or appear with a lack of shading or strange shading.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There should be tools in your cad software to align the normals, or flip them on each face at least. Alternatively, some tools like MeshLab and Meshixer I believe have tools to fix this. Also of course make sure your model is watertight and that you don't have too many errors like duplicate vertices, faces, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10915" LastActivityDate="2018-05-27T16:47:04.853" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6044" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6030" CreationDate="2018-05-27T22:14:37.093" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got the Anet A8 display working on a RAMPS 1.6 (which basically works exactly the same as a RAMPS 1.4 board). Note that at first connection I got exactly the same display when I connected the LCD to the EXP1 and EXP 2 headers using the &quot;smart adapter&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To get the Anet A8 display working on a MKS GEN L (which is basically a RAMPS board as the pin layout of the RAMPS configuration are used in the firmware of the MKS GEN L) you need to forget about the EXP1 and EXP2 headers and the &quot;smart adapter&quot; for the Anet A8 display. Instead you need to connect the Anet A8 display to the AUX2 header. The only thing you would have to do (from the hardware side) is to switch the cables that are connected to the pin 1 and pin 2. I used Dupont connectors and cables. Pin 1 on AUX2 is VCC and pin 2 on AUX2 is GND, this is reversed on the Anet A8 display.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the software side you need to set the following constants:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#define ULTRA_LCD   // Character based&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#define ZONESTAR_LCD&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZqGyq.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZqGyq.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Anet A8 display working on RAMPS 1.6&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please note that in the photo you still see the &quot;smart adapter&quot; with flat ribbon cables, but they are not connected to a screen, the reason for them being there is I also tested the full graphic discount controller in a previous session. The Anet A8 display is connected to the flat ribbon cable on AUX2 just above the top-left most stepper driver.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;UPDATE:&#xA;At the time of writing and the use of an older Marlin version, this required to set &lt;code&gt;#define ULTRA_LCD&lt;/code&gt;. In Marlin 1.1.9 you do not need to set &lt;code&gt;#define ULTRA_LCD&lt;/code&gt; explicitly, this is now intrinsically set by &lt;code&gt;#define ZONESTAR_LCD&lt;/code&gt;. To elaborate on this, the &lt;code&gt;#define ZONESTAR_LCD&lt;/code&gt; sets the constant &lt;code&gt;#define ULTIPANEL&lt;/code&gt; which sets constant &lt;code&gt;#define ULTRA_LCD&lt;/code&gt; in &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/blob/1.1.x/Marlin/Conditionals_LCD.h&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;code&gt;Conditionals_LCD.h&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-12-29T10:40:10.613" LastActivityDate="2018-12-29T10:40:10.613" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6046" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6048" CreationDate="2018-05-28T04:36:45.853" Score="9" ViewCount="11445" Body="&lt;p&gt;I need to add some simple image renders of STL files to a document.  I currently open the STL files in Preview or one of the slicers and grab a screen shot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there an easier or automatic way to generate PNG images from STL files on a Mac?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6851" LastActivityDate="2019-08-14T03:13:31.510" Title="How can I create PNG image files from STL files?" Tags="|slicing|stl|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6047" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6046" CreationDate="2018-05-28T06:18:21.070" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Typically you would install a (free) 3D model program as Fusion 360, FreeCAD, or many more options to choose from. Once installed, import the STL file and use menu options to export a picture of your STL.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively, if you have some programming skills, you could &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikibooks.org/wiki/OpenSCAD_User_Manual/Importing_Geometry&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;import the STL file&lt;/a&gt; in OpenSCAD and render and export a picture from there. Simply create an OpenSCAD file with the code line below and it will import your &lt;code&gt;example.stl&lt;/code&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;import(&quot;example.stl&quot;, convexity=10);&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Through the menu you can then export the view to an image. Note that you can do that also from the &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikibooks.org/wiki/OpenSCAD_User_Manual/Using_OpenSCAD_in_a_command_line_environment&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;command line&lt;/a&gt; as shown by the OP's own answer (nice example of command line usage of OpenSCAD).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These are not the only options, there are many more. E.g. &lt;a href=&quot;http://dangerousprototypes.com/blog/2015/05/13/3d-model-stl-to-png-preview/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; is a nice example. It also describes how Thingiverse.com does STL to web image.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-05-29T18:25:44.667" LastActivityDate="2018-05-29T18:25:44.667" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6048" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6046" CreationDate="2018-05-28T07:11:30.883" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.openscad.org&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;OpenSCAD&lt;/a&gt; installed, this shell script will generate 100x100 pixel PNG images for each STL file in your current directory.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;for i in *.stl; do&#xA;  T=__tmp__&lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$i&#xA;  b=`basename $&lt;/span&gt;i`&#xA;  echo import\(\&quot;&lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$i\&quot;\)\; &amp;gt;$&lt;/span&gt;T&#xA;  /Applications/OpenSCAD.app/Contents/MacOS/OpenSCAD -o &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$b.png --imgsize=100,100 $&lt;/span&gt;T&#xA;  rm $T&#xA;done&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Credit to &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/5740/0scar&quot;&gt;0scar&lt;/a&gt; for pointing out STL files can be imported into OpenSCAD.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Update: This code does the same, and generates an html file with annotated images of the files rendered.  When I printed a batch of spare parts for my 3D printer I made a hardcopy and stuck it in the box so I could identify the parts later.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;n=-1&#xA;H=00-catalog.html&#xA;echo &amp;gt;&lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$H '&amp;lt;table&amp;gt;'&#xA;echo &amp;gt;&amp;gt;$&lt;/span&gt;H '  &amp;lt;tr&amp;gt;'&#xA;for i in &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$*; do&#xA;  n=`expr $&lt;/span&gt;n + 1`&#xA;  if test $n = 4; then&#xA;      n=0&#xA;      echo &amp;gt;&amp;gt;$H '  &amp;lt;/tr&amp;gt;'&#xA;      echo &amp;gt;&amp;gt;$H '  &amp;lt;tr&amp;gt;'&#xA;  fi&#xA;  echo $i&#xA;  T=__tmp__$i&#xA;  B=`basename &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$i .stl`&#xA;  echo import\(\&quot;$&lt;/span&gt;i\&quot;\)\; &amp;gt;&lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$T&#xA;  /Applications/OpenSCAD.app//Contents/MacOS/OpenSCAD -o $&lt;/span&gt;B.png --imgsize=200,200 &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$T&#xA;  echo &amp;gt;&amp;gt;$&lt;/span&gt;H&#xA;  echo &amp;gt;&amp;gt;&lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$H '    &amp;lt;td&amp;gt;'$&lt;/span&gt;i'&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;img src=&quot;'$B'.png&quot;&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/td&amp;gt;'&#xA;&#xA;  rm &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$T&#xA;done&#xA;echo &amp;gt;&amp;gt;$&lt;/span&gt;H '  &amp;lt;/tr&amp;gt;'&#xA;echo &amp;gt;&amp;gt;$H '&amp;lt;/table&amp;gt;'&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6851" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-01-09T19:17:38.013" LastActivityDate="2019-01-09T19:17:38.013" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6049" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="61" CreationDate="2018-05-28T11:23:38.427" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This post is meant to share experience with products that make your products stick to the bed. This is not meant to be a promotion of the products! In other answers I've seen answers hinting to Elmer's glue sticks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have been printing directly onto the aluminium heatbed from day 2 of the i3 Prusa clone (Anet A8) printer and the glass beds of the Ultimaker 3 Extended and my HyperCube Evolution using a PVA based spray (3DLAC, but there are more products with similar effects, e.g. glue sticks). This sticks so well that PLA and PETG can only be removed after cooling down the bed completely. For ABS you could use DimaFix which can be used for ABS as it increases grip with increasing temperature where 3DLAC looses grip over 80 °C (according to theory). After trying DimaFix on high temperature beds for printing POM filament (very tough to get this to stick as this is bearing material!) I found that prints stick better with 3DLAC on glass.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-05-29T18:06:00.417" LastActivityDate="2018-05-29T18:06:00.417" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6050" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-05-28T13:37:04.637" Score="4" ViewCount="1521" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't know how to say this but during the print, the printer will randomly have difficulty extruding the filament. I will have to give the filament a &lt;em&gt;boost&lt;/em&gt; for it to keep going. Once I done the &lt;em&gt;boost&lt;/em&gt;, the extruder keeps going perfectly fine for a while.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am using a Prusa I3 clone bought second hand. I am using the settings that the previous owner gave me (I personally know him). He previously printed a lot of stuff with those settings and they seem to work well. I also bought the brand of same filament as he did for my first roll.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Has anyone had this problem or anything similar and if they did, how did they resolve it?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If anymore precision or clarification is needed, please ask.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I say &lt;code&gt;boost&lt;/code&gt; I mean that I have to push it down a bit more for it to countinue extruding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am using 3D branche filament (it's a local store in Montreal).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do sometime hear it click before the print. When it does that. I stop the print and restart it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10816" LastEditorUserId="10816" LastEditDate="2018-05-28T19:54:13.420" LastActivityDate="2018-05-31T14:45:21.947" Title="Extruder clogs randomly during print" Tags="|prusa-i3|extruder|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6051" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-05-28T13:55:22.243" Score="6" ViewCount="17691" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I set temperature say 220 °C, printer heats up to it and it only varies +/- 0.5 °C under non operating condition. But if I start a print, there's a shift of +/- 15 °C.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've already auto tuned PID parameters and when I run &lt;code&gt;M503&lt;/code&gt;, the printer shows the updated PID values.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/w8SCE.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/w8SCE.png&quot; alt=&quot;Octoprint temperature graph showing hotend temperature drops&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What could be the reason?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Electronics details:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Firmware used:  Marlin&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Controller board: Printrboard rev D&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10670" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-07-12T09:07:51.533" LastActivityDate="2020-11-13T20:36:45.057" Title="Hot end temperature varies during print" Tags="|marlin|hotend|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6052" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6051" CreationDate="2018-05-28T14:15:43.683" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;There could be a number of reasons for that behaviour:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please check following items:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;part blower/fan cools down the nozzle - stop the fan&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;material is extruded at high speed and takes the heat&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;loose thermistor (when the move occurs as it moves a bit internally) &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the power supply unit voltage varies - so temperature reading varies as well - measure voltage and see if there are significant drops&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;nozzle heater and thermistor cables can be loose as well (check screw terminals)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;bed heater connection cables having not a good connection (check screw terminals)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9730" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-05-28T14:28:50.767" LastActivityDate="2018-05-28T14:28:50.767" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6053" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6051" CreationDate="2018-05-28T14:16:47.493" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Dropping hot end temperatures can be caused by the filament cooler blowing too much cold air onto the nozzle, or a too high of a print speed so that the nozzle is cooled by the filament (in combination with a heating element that cannot heat that fast to compensate).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To rule out the PSU you could try measuring the voltage of the PSU before and after powering the heat bed, if it drops dramatically when the heat bed starts change the PSU.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-05-29T18:13:24.960" LastActivityDate="2018-05-29T18:13:24.960" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6054" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6046" CreationDate="2018-05-28T16:32:12.680" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you don't mind using screen grabs,  you could use AppleScript or whatever it's called in the latest MacOS versions to build an automated script to open each file, grab screen, save, etc.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2191" LastActivityDate="2018-05-28T16:32:12.680" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6055" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6063" CreationDate="2018-05-29T01:40:38.827" Score="10" ViewCount="3403" Body="&lt;p&gt;In cura one of the options under &quot;build plate adhesion&quot; is &quot;skirt&quot;, which seems to simply print a loop around, but not touching, my print. How is this supposed to help my prints stick to the bed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10422" LastActivityDate="2018-06-04T12:36:01.597" Title="How do skirts aid print bed adhesion?" Tags="|heated-bed|adhesion|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6056" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6055" CreationDate="2018-05-29T05:33:25.790" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;These skirts they don't contribute at all to help your product adhere better to the build plate other than priming your nozzle so that it is ready to lay down filament for your product. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A skirt &lt;strong&gt;does&lt;/strong&gt; give a good indication of the adhesion prior to printing your product, if the skirt does not adhere, maybe it is a good time to stop the print and re-slice with different options or fix the bed level.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-05-29T07:26:45.323" LastActivityDate="2018-05-29T07:26:45.323" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6058" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6061" CreationDate="2018-05-29T10:56:45.593" Score="3" ViewCount="47" Body="&lt;p&gt;The printer stopped heating the extruder in the middle of the print and I noticed it getting cooled down. After a few seconds, I heard a ticking noise near the filament (which could probably mean the filament was being pushed into a cold extruder and was skipping. Now, when I try to heat the extruder, it won't heat up. What could've gone broken?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10929" LastActivityDate="2018-05-29T12:57:00.947" Title="German RepRep Neo can't heat the extruder" Tags="|extruder|heat-management|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6059" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6050" CreationDate="2018-05-29T11:33:24.860" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Check your retraction settings. I had a similar issue and it was caused by the retraction, It retracted just about enough so the gears couldnt hit the hole properly to feed the filament into the nozzle. To fix that I lowered the value of mm on the retraction settings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9988" LastActivityDate="2018-05-29T11:33:24.860" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6060" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6066" CreationDate="2018-05-29T12:48:31.387" Score="4" ViewCount="9954" Body="&lt;p&gt;After lots of hassle, I finally made the printer work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also got myself one bed leveling sensor from eBay, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.ebay.com/itm/LJ18A3-8-Z-BX-3D-Printer-Inductive-Sensor-Bed-Auto-Level-Plug-For-Anet-A8-A2-A6/322718359043?hash=item4b23835e03:g:H14AAOSwicJZr8ro&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;LJ18A3-8-Z/BX 3D Printer Inductive Sensor Bed Auto Level +Plug For Anet A8 A2 A6&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure how to setup it. Should I print some holders for it first? Where are they?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I somehow update the firmware?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10930" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2019-08-31T08:22:54.427" LastActivityDate="2019-08-31T08:22:54.427" Title="Anet A6 install bed leveling sensor" Tags="|anet-a6|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6061" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6058" CreationDate="2018-05-29T12:57:00.947" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;first, check the breakers &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fpRGh.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fpRGh.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.germanreprap.com/myfactory/web/cms/produkt/100279.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;pic source&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;secondary stuff&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;please see a list of item to check, that could point you to the source:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;heater cable cut/melted/loose =&gt; the best way will be to check the resistance (it shall be around 3.3 Ohms) from the heater cable terminals on the mainboard, if that fails it could be a wire on heater itself.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;with the heating switch on - measure the voltage on terminals - shall be 12V, if not  - that  could suggest a mainboard failure or mosfet failure (in case of mosfet you could measure if there is an input signal given on the middle pin)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;there also could be a breaker that was engaged due to short circuit on the wires (the main board layout is not known to me and it is not clear form manual I found online)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9730" LastActivityDate="2018-05-29T12:57:00.947" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6062" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6051" CreationDate="2018-05-29T14:13:53.247" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can you also show a &quot;power output&quot; graph (or something like that, which show PWD duty cycle output to the hot end)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Have you noted any relation between temperature raise and fall and the printing position?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looking at graph I can only suggest the heating is suddenly stops and then the same sudden resumes.&#xA;It looks like you have a loose wire connection to the heater. When head is starting to move, it makes disturbance for the wiring, so heater occasionally stops to work.&#xA;There are usual two weak points: first it is where cable is connected to the board. Check is connector heated? Are any noises/sparks from there?&#xA;Another part: it is just at the point where wires going into the hot end. If wires are not secured to the printing head, then during printing those place experiences a lot of bending, which makes it weaker over the time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10875" LastActivityDate="2018-05-29T14:13:53.247" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6063" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6055" CreationDate="2018-05-29T14:35:29.613" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The skirt will only prime the nozzle, which is something really important for the first layer adhesion.&#xA;Ususally the first layer has slightly more material (or a lower height) respect to the other layers, and this is done mainly to push the most material against the plate, and this will give adhesion. Without a proper priming of the nozzle this just won't happen everywhere.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.simplify3d.com/support/articles/perfecting-the-first-layer/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Simplify3D&lt;/a&gt; guide:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Adjustments to the First Layer Height allow you to vary the amount of pressure the filament exerts against the bed.  There are actually two ways to adjust the height and pressure:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Percentages under 100% will reduce the height&lt;/strong&gt; of the layer being printed (with no change to the extrusion amount).  For example, if you entered 75%, your first layer height is reduced while your extrusion remains at 100%.  Another way to think of this is that 100% of your extrusion will be forced into a space that is 75% of the layer height.  &lt;strong&gt;This reduction in height generates extra pressure and more surface area for that layer, which will help the first layer adhere to the print bed.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In other cases, using a &lt;strong&gt;percentage above 100% is helpful&lt;/strong&gt;.  For example, if you are &lt;strong&gt;printing at very fine layer heights, such as 0.05mm&lt;/strong&gt;, a tiny variance in your bed leveling can result in poor first layer adhesion.  Using a First Layer Height well above 100% can be extremely helpful in these cases. Many machines benefit from 200 or 300% for the first layer height when the layer height is 0.05 mm or 0.1 mm. The increased thickness of the first layer &lt;strong&gt;can help absorb small defects in the build plate&lt;/strong&gt; and provide more surface contact area, which will result in better first layer adhesion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Imho, the life is too short to print at 0.05mm, and my printer doesn't show bed issues, therefore i'll go with less than 100% first layer height.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't have the standard cura settings available, and i also think that with different 3d printers with different filaments it makes only a little sense to discuss about &amp;quot;cura standard settings&amp;quot;. In any case, my very standard standard settings are: 0.2mm layer height, 0.15mm first layer height. With these settings and some hairspray on the glass i almost forgot about model pop off in midprint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10932" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:29:41.667" LastActivityDate="2018-06-03T05:46:17.323" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6064" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6035" CreationDate="2018-05-29T14:50:39.033" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you want a ditto printing is not mandatory to have a specific firmware (or g-code), you only need to add extruder to your end effector and - because of electrical power requirements - add further stepper driver for further stepper motor. &#xA;Please note that the maximum footprint of your printed object is less than the extruders distance, for obvious physical reasons, therefore is not that common to see, the typical dual extruder goal is to use different filament/color.&#xA;Of course, you have to achieve a notable calibration skill, and of course you have to modify the electronics of your printer (but this can be done quite easily, you only have to share the enable/step/dir signals with all the stepper driver).&#xA;This has been already done with the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=5&amp;amp;v=DeVeyUas5vU&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;MPCNC project&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Otherwise, if you want something more flexible, there are commercial printers with independent extruder. &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.lpfrg.com/en/benefits-of-independent-dual-extruders/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;This one, for example&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: i can't comment your answer yet, but can you describe your current 3d printer setup? Because if you have the two hot ends that are only few mm apart it makes little sense to ditto-print something.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10932" LastEditorUserId="10932" LastEditDate="2018-05-29T15:49:23.027" LastActivityDate="2018-05-29T15:49:23.027" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6065" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6055" CreationDate="2018-05-29T15:00:52.987" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Skirts prime the nozzle- getting the filament to first adhere to the build platform is necessary for the entire print. Once the filament starts to stick it usually will continue to. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Skirts can also help block any air drafts that might blow the filament away from adhering in the 1st layer of the print&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10863" LastActivityDate="2018-05-29T15:00:52.987" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6066" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6060" CreationDate="2018-05-30T06:54:08.957" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You need to do two or three things:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Print a holder or bracket for the probe, if your probe did not come with one, and looking at the eBay item listing, it doesn't appear to include a bracket. There are a number of designs out there, take a look at thingiverse, for example:&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2424360&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Installing the BLtouch on Anet A6&lt;/a&gt; - This one includes a PDF guide.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2030075&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Anet A6 Autolevel Sensor Support 18mm&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Change the firmware - &lt;strike&gt;SkyNet 3D&lt;/strike&gt;, Marlin is a good choice, or Anet's own &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You &lt;em&gt;may&lt;/em&gt; need to change the Z-stops&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a step by step guide here, &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprint.wiki/reprap/anet/a8/improvement/autobedleveling&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Autolevel for the A8 Anet 3D Printer&lt;/a&gt;. It is for the A8 but most, if not all, of the steps will apply to the A6&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4762" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-05-30T12:03:13.447" LastActivityDate="2018-05-30T12:03:13.447" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6067" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6068" CreationDate="2018-05-30T13:03:56.937" Score="8" ViewCount="20165" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been having an issue with certain portions of the walls of certain prints becoming separated from the rest of the model. It happens with smooth vertical edges.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Specifically, this model, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2517008&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt; ID Badge Holder&lt;/a&gt;, on the edges where the lanyard would be attached. And on several places on this model, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2253220&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Cat Necklace&lt;/a&gt;.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is the resulting issue:  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VU11w.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Detached print wall&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VU11w.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Detached print wall&quot; title=&quot;Detached print wall&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am quite new to 3D printing, so I'm sure this is an easy fix, I just don't know about it yet.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am printing with a Monoprice Select Mini V2, using Hatchbox PLA, and the default slicing settings inside Cura. I don't have problems with any of the D&amp;amp;D figures I've printed, or some of the other thicker square pieces I've printed. I know I've got kind of a bargain printer; if it's just a quality issue I have to learn to live with, no problem. But if an expert knows of some slicer settings to tweak for these kinds of prints with flat vertical walls, I'd love to give it a try.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10826" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-12-10T06:23:39.703" LastActivityDate="2019-12-10T06:23:39.703" Title="What is causing the walls of my prints to separate?" Tags="|print-quality|monoprice-select-mini|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6068" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6067" CreationDate="2018-05-30T14:39:32.473" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have faced the same issue if it concerns just gaps between the walls (to the point you could put a nail in between the outer and inner perimeters, so clearly the perimeters were not bonding), for me this was fixed with proper tension of the belts of my Prusa i3 clone, and for my other (CoreXY) printer reducing the friction of the X-Y system. Both help position the head better for proper wall adhesion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now that you have posted a picture of your product I do not think the above is applicable to you. Your print looks as if it has an under-extrusion problem as the lines on the faces are clearly not touching, you see the diagonals of the layers beneath. This under-extrusion also may contribute to the vertical wall bonding problems you mention. To fight under-extrusion you need to check a few things:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Be sure the slicer has the actual filament diameter as mentioned on the box, or measured at various points (if it varies, take the mean value).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check your extruder setup to see whether you have play or friction preventing filament to extrude freely.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Also check whether your extruder gear is not loose, re-tighten the grub screw.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Final step is calibration. You want to be certain that when you demand 100 mm of filament to extrude, you actually extrude 100 mm. Put a mark on the filament and extrude 100 mm using a tool like Pronterface or Repetier-host. If this is off you should readjust the steps per mm in the firmware (if you are able to do so), or increase the extrusion multiplier or flow in your slicer.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please look &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/#not-extruding-enough-plastic&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;https://rigid.ink/blogs/news/under-extrusion-problems-or-clicking-sounds-heres-why-and-how-to-fix-it&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; for more information.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-05-31T17:19:36.657" LastActivityDate="2018-05-31T17:19:36.657" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6069" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6067" CreationDate="2018-05-30T14:59:21.810" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I dont know if I understand you correctly, but let me try...  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It could be that the wall-thickness of the part you try to print is to thin or is not &quot;compatible&quot; with your nozzle size.&#xA;Lets say your nozzle and output size is 0.4mm. You now try to print a wall with a thickness of 1mm. So the printer will print 2 wall-perimeters (left and right) with a 0.4mm thickness. Between these walls there is now a 0.2mm gap. The slicer cannot fill this gap as its to small for the nozzle, so it is left empty.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I run into this problem multiple times already with different models using Cura.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But, atleast in older versions of Cura, if you go to the layer-view you can kind of preview/see the problem.&#xA;(Iam still using an older Version.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This problem can also effect the overall print quality of the part.&#xA;(For example I had a part with very big stringing problems but only on the inside of a specific wall. The wall wasnt even thin, it was a couple of mm, but the overall thickness of the wall was not a multiple of my nozzle-size so it created problems.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some say you should design a model with a nozzle size already in mind, however this is not really practical, as everybody uses different settings/printers and not everybody creates his own models.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are some more infos regarding this issue: (and more &quot;walls-not-touching&quot; issues)&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://support.3dverkstan.se/article/23-a-visual-ultimaker-troubleshooting-guide#wallspace&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://support.3dverkstan.se/article/23-a-visual-ultimaker-troubleshooting-guide#wallspace&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So maybe try varying your nozzle size and wall thicknesses and see if this changes something in the cura preview already.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This problem can also happen if you have some very tight corners, which are to small for the nozzle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8916" LastActivityDate="2018-05-30T14:59:21.810" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6070" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6067" CreationDate="2018-05-30T18:38:21.897" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;When printing someone else's model, your print is at the mercy of their design. Designing for multiple printers is hard work, and even if something is printable on 90% of printers, you may be in the 10%. Sometimes designs use walls too thin for other printers. On this design, the lanyard wall looks a bit thin but workable. My own card holder has a thicker wall at that junction: &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/firepick1/taz-shield/blob/master/STL/Cardholder.stl&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://github.com/firepick1/taz-shield/blob/master/STL/Cardholder.stl&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Vertical walls are the weakest part of 3D printing. Walls are made up of overlapping filament strands. They'll come apart if your printer belts are loose and the strands don't align (tighten belt if there is play). They'll come apart if you print too fast and the contact area is too thin (slow down for better contact and more accurate motion). They'll come apart if filament head temp is too low and the strands don't fuse (bump it up by 5C and try again).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Slicing software normally takes are of all this for you, but it's good to understand what happens on the print bed because your slicing software will often have options that you will need to tweak for your specific printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10938" LastEditorUserId="10938" LastEditDate="2018-05-31T18:00:48.533" LastActivityDate="2018-05-31T18:00:48.533" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6071" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6041" CreationDate="2018-05-30T18:51:57.673" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;A bit of rubbing alcohol dripped on the print edges may help, especially if the print is still warm. Wait about 30 seconds and then gently pry up using knife-edge tool. If this technique works for you, dilute alcohol in a spray bottle or just buy a window cleaner. If you are designing models, minimize base area and always use a base layer fillet of about 0.5mm-1.0mm to permit knife-edge access. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10938" LastActivityDate="2018-05-30T18:51:57.673" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6072" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-05-30T20:44:25.467" Score="6" ViewCount="288" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got a Prusa i3 MK3. I have printed with PLA, PETG and tried HIPS. Haven't had any clogs with PLA and PETG, but with HIPS I've got a weird problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My first three test prints in HIPS went fine, but then I got a very bad clog (required total disassembly of the extruder) twice. And every time, it was at the same moment during a print. The object I was printing was a hollow cylinder. The walls were about 5 mm thick, getting thinner near the top edge. At the moment the walls started getting thinner, the problems started.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've read that HIPS can clog if the filament moves too slow through the hotend. At the moment the clog occurred, the printer was printing a very narrow part, and the extruder had to move around a lot. Is it possible that, at that moment, the filament moves too slow and the problems starts? I have also printed two copies of the object in a single run, and then the problem didn't occur.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope my explanation makes sense, but here's what it comes down to: Does HIPS clog easily when the filament moves too slow, and if it does, what can I do to solve this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10940" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-05-31T05:36:25.050" LastActivityDate="2018-09-26T11:35:49.910" Title="Extruder clogs with HIPS" Tags="|extruder|nozzle|filament-quality|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6073" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6050" CreationDate="2018-05-30T22:10:23.577" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the model you're printing is your own design, then sometimes the 3D model is itself the problem. If the printer spends a lot of time retracting (pulling back) on the filament to print things like walls with lots of gaps then the filament softens at the feed gear and nothing feeds. Slicing software should handle that use case but may not. I've had this exact problem with the Lulzbot Mini using Cura when trying to print a hydroponics netpot. I had to rethink my design after the extruder clogged.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10938" LastActivityDate="2018-05-30T22:10:23.577" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6074" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6039" CreationDate="2018-05-31T00:51:29.587" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The video treats about sodium polucarbonate ‎(C3H3NaO2) this is a superabsorbent polymer has the ability to absorb as much as 100 to 1000 times its mass in water. This is used as desiccant on products that moisture can be a problem basically during storage prior selling. The video shows the water how is trapped inside the particles of sodium polycarbonate, this happens inside a diaper or any product urine odor absorbing, also is used on waste liquid control. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also you can find something similar on some products that has a little bag that says silica gel (SiO2).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4454" LastActivityDate="2018-05-31T00:51:29.587" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6075" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6050" CreationDate="2018-05-31T14:45:21.947" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've adjusted the tension of the idler wheel (the bearing that pushes the filament against the extruder gear) and it seems to reduce the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More thest to come.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10816" LastActivityDate="2018-05-31T14:45:21.947" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6076" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6041" CreationDate="2018-05-31T16:05:24.157" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;For PLA, I usually use hairspay directly on the glass, it keeps the object attached but is not at all a strong glue, sometimes I facilitate the part removal washing it under flowing water. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6041/how-can-you-both-reliably-print-and-remove-your-item-without-breaking-it-when-de#answer-6071&quot;&gt;OyaMist wrote&lt;/a&gt;, a small fillet in the perimeter helps because you actually want to push your object perpendicularly to the bed, and therefore you need to have some grasp point for the blade.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this is not available and/or when an object is really impossible to remove otherwise, I use this technique:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Remove the glass with the object still attached;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Find a robust piece of furniture with a flat top and a (smooth) vertical wall;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Put the glass as high as possible but still pushed against the vertical wall; (the object must be on the furniture-side of the glass)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Move down the glass, a quite fast but still controllable movement.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The object is supposed to hit the furniture's flat top while the glass is sliding on the vertical wall.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The object will receive an impact, not a force, from the side.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since this is more an impact than an applied force, the adhesion layer can't resist as a whole surface, but only the surface near the hit point can actually do something. That's the same concept of fixing a nail into wood, if you can only push you'll need a lot of force or -that's why we use hammers- you can just apply some relatively small hits. In fact, I usually see (maybe after few movements) that the object start to detach in some spots, then I can proceed with the paint scraper or I can just continue this way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Be careful not to drop the glass, of course. :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10932" LastEditorUserId="10932" LastEditDate="2018-06-08T08:02:28.083" LastActivityDate="2018-06-08T08:02:28.083" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6077" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6067" CreationDate="2018-05-31T16:35:33.210" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yup I can tell at a glance it is under extrusion. I bet the issue is temp.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Test your steps per MM for E. See &lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/wiki/Triffid_Hunter%27s_Calibration_Guide&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://reprap.org/wiki/Triffid_Hunter%27s_Calibration_Guide&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Measure Required tools: vernier caliper with depth gauge, or similar&#xA;  tool that can precisely measure 100mm. Your hob effective diameter is&#xA;  unlikely to be exactly 7mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Remove the hot-end from extruder so you don't waste filament. Feed in&#xA;  some filament. Using the extruder body as a reference point, mark the&#xA;  filament at 120mm. Tell the printer to feed 100mm of filament. Measure&#xA;  the distance from the extruder body to the mark you made. It will be&#xA;  over 20mm if it moved too little, under if it moved too far.&#xA;  new_e_steps = old_e_steps * (100 / distance_actually_moved) … or,&#xA;  old_e_steps * (100 / (120 - distance_to_mark)) Set this value in your&#xA;  firmware. You may need to re-flash your board. Sprinter/Marlin&#xA;  supports M92 Ennn to set this value temporarily. Repeat from Step 3&#xA;  until you get between 96-104mm. Then continue with this guide. You'll&#xA;  dial it in perfectly later on. Don't flash firmware yet. There's a&#xA;  further refinement to this value below. Why? The back-pressure from&#xA;  the hot-end alters how much plastic each hob revolution pushes, and&#xA;  you'll probably end up tightening your idler more which reduces the&#xA;  hob effective diameter. Re-attach hot end.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If that comes out correct, your Temps are too low. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To fix this, you will need to play around and increase your temps by 2-3 degrees until the infill comes out correctly. Do not go over the minimum needed else you will have other issues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also check for obstructions such as carbon buildup in the nozzle. In addition to the tightness of your filament tensioner on your extruder drive if you have one. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I will say, I had this issue on my Ultimaker 2. An apparent design flaw caused the filament drive to lose power over time or possibly wear on the tube causing extra drag (bowden tube only issues). I corrected it by increasing the extrusion multiplier in simplify3d.  However that is a bandaid and the real issue should be addressed. In my case in the end I replaced the drive with a bondtech. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2146" LastEditorUserId="2146" LastEditDate="2018-05-31T17:52:48.590" LastActivityDate="2018-05-31T17:52:48.590" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6078" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6079" CreationDate="2018-06-01T11:00:48.853" Score="6" ViewCount="1907" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm running a RepRap based ORDBOT Hadron on Repetier firmware version 1.0 that I built from a kit.  I've slowly worked out the kinks but this one is an utter doozy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically I occasionally get shifting in the y-axis - the print bed moves on this axis - but only in the positive y direction.  Never in the negative y direction.  I'm not sure if I'm using those terms correctly, but the bed shifts forwards (negative y), so subsequent print moves are displaced in the positive y direction relative to the rest of the print.  I'm calling that a &quot;positive y direction shift&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The offending y-axis is belt-driven by a single NEMA 17 stepper motor.  The belt is tight (not too tight I don't think) and well-aligned.  It would be difficult for it to become unaligned or lose tension since it runs along a piece of extruded aluminium that is very rigid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It took a long time to notice the pattern.  Some prints don't have the problem, and some prints I simply cannot finish no matter what I do.  Finally I found a model that reliably reproduces the problem, on the same move, on about 50% or so of its layers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This piece is supposed to be straight up &amp;amp; down.  Wild.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IlckP.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;This piece is supposed to be straight up &amp;amp; down&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IlckP.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;This piece is supposed to be straight up &amp;amp; down&quot; title=&quot;This piece is supposed to be straight up &amp;amp; down&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The moves that cause the shift are on this red line.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EOUJN.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;The moves that cause the shift are on this red line&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EOUJN.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;The moves that cause the shift are on this red line&quot; title=&quot;The moves that cause the shift are on this red line&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The issue seems to only occur on curved moves with a radius of approximately 2-3&amp;nbsp;mm that point their convex side towards the y-negative direction.  Larger or smaller radius moves don't cause the problem.  In fact sharp turns don't cause the problem either.  &lt;strong&gt;Only 2-3&amp;nbsp;mm radius moves with their convex side towards y-negative produce the issue.&lt;/strong&gt;  No other kind of move causes the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think the offending move is highlighted here in red, but it might be one of the two moves either side of it.  I haven't been able to narrow it down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/q1K7s.pnga&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Cross-section of print&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/q1K7s.pnga&quot; alt=&quot;Cross-section of print&quot; title=&quot;Cross-section of print&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also note that there is no opportunity on this part of the G-code for the hotend to snag on the model, and I see no evidence of this when it happens.  If it were, I imagine a small model like this would simply dislodge, rather than jamming the y-axis.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;s&gt;I've tried lowering the y-axis acceleration, to the point where you can hear the y-axis spooling up and down as it slowly accelerates to and fro, and the problem remains.  What is especially baffling is that if I leave the y-axis acceleration at 300&amp;nbsp;mm/s&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;, the shifting never happens in the negative y-direction, only in the positive.  And even if I lower it to 50&amp;nbsp;mm/s&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;, the shifting still happens towards positive y.  So somehow this problem is &lt;em&gt;independent&lt;/em&gt; of y-axis acceleration as set in the firmware.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One thing I have noticed, is that even if you can visibly see how slowly the y-axis accelerates, when the problem occurs, the y-axis seems to launch itself into overdrive and whip around that corner as fast as possible, to the point that it overwhelms itself.  I'm almost certain the moves that cause the skip are breaking the acceleration limit, but I have no idea what to do about it.  It seems like a bug in the firmware, like instead of reducing the acceleration it's increasing the acceleration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would guess that somewhere in the code there should be a mathf.abs() around a term, so it slows down the move whether it's positive or negative, but that's pure speculation.&lt;/s&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The above paragraphs no longer appear to be true.  I changed the y acceleration limit to 50&amp;nbsp;mm/s&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; and the piece printed perfectly.  It's possible the firmware update made a difference.  I've also enabled EEPROM, so that may have changed something as well.  It's also possible that by re-compiling the firmware every time I made a change in the past, I made an error that misled me about the problem.  I will try to reproduce the problem and post an answer about it if I manage to, otherwise I may just close the question.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm hesitant to say the firmware is the problem because a) I don't know enough to confirm it and b) it makes the solution super difficult: either wait for a solution from the developers, or write it myself.  Whilst I could find &amp;amp; write the solution, it would take a lot of work and I'm hoping it's simpler than that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've recently upgraded the Repetier firmware from 0.92 to 1.0, and the problem has remained.  This also has happened when controlling the printer from Repetier Host, Repetier Server and Octopi, so I'm confident it's not the controller.  I'm also using Slic3r.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are some photos of the y-axis belt as requested:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Motor:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/swVT0.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Motor&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/swVT0.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Motor&quot; title=&quot;Motor&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Idler:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eOZUi.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Idler&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eOZUi.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Idler&quot; title=&quot;Idler&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1907" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-07-11T12:51:02.103" LastActivityDate="2018-07-11T12:51:02.103" Title="Perplexing Y-axis shifting problem - only in positive y direction, and only on moves of a very specific radius" Tags="|reprap|firmware|repetier|troubleshooting|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6079" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6078" CreationDate="2018-06-01T16:13:16.027" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You see this for a few reason.&#xA;First you are going too fast and you are getting belt shift from the whip lash. You can mitigate that by going slower and adjusting your Jerk settings to lower. Though usually this is not a consistent wall. Usually you see &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/#layer-shifting-or-misalignment&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said it is likely you have not adjusted the current to your stepper motors correctly. I don't know if your system has &lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/wiki/Pololu_stepper_driver_board&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;pololus&lt;/a&gt;, but you will want to adjust your current carefully. If you hear thudding from your stepper or the stepper cannot move, you have not done this correctly. Note I've fried many boards adjusting these, make sure to do it with the board unplugged or with a ceramic screw driver. &lt;a href=&quot;https://matterhackers.dozuki.com/Guide/Tuning+Motor+Current/37&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Here&lt;/a&gt; is a more complete guide.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A last option is your system has too much friction as Ultimaker points out in their trouble shooting &lt;a href=&quot;https://support.3dverkstan.se/article/23-a-visual-ultimaker-troubleshooting-guide#leaning&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;guide&lt;/a&gt;. You said your belts are very tight. I wonder if you have them So tight you are actually creating binding. Check to make sure the belts are not rubbing in any way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Leaning: A leaning print is usually caused by friction causing the&#xA;  print head to move a shorter distance than expected. Make sure that&#xA;  the short belts that connect the stepper motors to the axes do not rub&#xA;  up against the main body of the printer. Similarly make sure that the&#xA;  pulleys on the stepper motors that the belts ride over are not&#xA;  touching the side of the printer. If they are you must move the pulley&#xA;  closer to the stepper motor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My bet is it's current.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2146" LastActivityDate="2018-06-01T16:13:16.027" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6080" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-06-01T17:53:13.627" Score="5" ViewCount="391" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am experiencing strange grooves in my ABS prints; with PLA everything is fine. Some layers seem to randomly overextruded and others underextruded.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My parameters:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Temp: 240°C&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Retraction Distance: 5&amp;nbsp;mm&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Retraction Speed: 70&amp;nbsp;mm/s&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Print Speed: 35&amp;nbsp;mm/s&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Combing mode: All&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Max Comb Distance with no Retract: 5&amp;nbsp;mm&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It shouldn't be a problem with the Z-axis or the temperature control. It also only appears on large objects.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Tq9IB.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Grooves 1&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Tq9IB.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Grooves 1&quot; title=&quot;Grooves 1&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pG19A.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Grooves 2&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pG19A.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Grooves 2&quot; title=&quot;Grooves 2&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10397" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-06-02T17:24:09.267" LastActivityDate="2018-06-04T21:12:14.223" Title="Strange grooves with ABS" Tags="|print-quality|abs|extrusion|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6081" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4660" CreationDate="2018-06-02T06:41:27.927" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Alunar firmware you linked is a fork from the main Marlin firmware. If the bed Y direction is reversed, usually the stepper is incorrectly placed (mirrored) this is seen frequently for the Anet A8 printer which is very similar to your printer. In your case the X direction is wrong, this is usually related to the wiring of the stepper, reversing the connector by 180 degrees should do the trick (hardware solution). As a software solution, changing direction is not difficult in Marlin based firmware; you just want to invert the stepper direction; the following section in the configuration.h file does that for you:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;// Invert the stepper direction. Change (or reverse the motor connector) if an axis goes the wrong way.&#xA;#define INVERT_X_DIR false&#xA;#define INVERT_Y_DIR false&#xA;#define INVERT_Z_DIR true&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just change &lt;code&gt;INVERT_X_DIR&lt;/code&gt; to &lt;code&gt;true&lt;/code&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your home position is still not working for you, you should look into this section of the same configuration file:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;// Travel limits (mm) after homing, corresponding to endstop positions.&#xA;#define X_MIN_POS -33&#xA;#define Y_MIN_POS -10&#xA;#define Z_MIN_POS 0&#xA;#define X_MAX_POS X_BED_SIZE&#xA;#define Y_MAX_POS Y_BED_SIZE&#xA;#define Z_MAX_POS 240&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Change the &lt;code&gt;MIN_POS&lt;/code&gt; positions as such that it starts at the corner of the bed. A more in depth bed center calibration tutorial can be found &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2280529&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;P.S. Please &lt;strong&gt;do not print&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;code&gt;anti-wobble caps for the Z-axis rods&lt;/code&gt; (as mentioned in another answer), these are &lt;strong&gt;not reducing the wobble&lt;/strong&gt;, in fact they cause problems. What happens if you constrain the top is that you get a &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Statically_indeterminate&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;statically indeterminate construction&lt;/a&gt;; forces and displacements are not predictable! Better solutions to eliminate Z-wobble are lifting devices that decouple X/Y movement from the threaded rod (eccentricity of the threaded rod) from the Z movement. Also fixate the threaded rod above the springy stepper-to-threaded-rod coupler.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-06-02T15:42:58.273" LastActivityDate="2018-06-02T15:42:58.273" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6084" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5247" CreationDate="2018-06-04T00:55:35.203" Score="0" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Get a copy of Partition Wizard (Free)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Take your 16G or 32G or ...? SD card and delete the existing partition.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Create a 2G partition and format it as FAT.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, you are wasting a lot of the SD card space but given the price of these things these days, who cares. And it will work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10968" LastActivityDate="2018-06-04T00:55:35.203" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6085" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6086" CreationDate="2018-06-04T07:42:42.550" Score="4" ViewCount="739" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have various G-code files stored at SDCard attached to my Prusa i3 MK2S printer. They are either for ABS, PLA or SBS. The more files I had on the SD card, the more I was running into trouble of finding for which material is which G-code. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To tackle the situation I created folders &lt;code&gt;ABS&lt;/code&gt;, &lt;code&gt;PLA&lt;/code&gt; and &lt;code&gt;SBS&lt;/code&gt; and put new files into those directories.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any better method of finding, backwards from G-code, which material settings were intended to be used? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If so, is there a way to read temperature settings from G-code by Prusa i3 firmware without printing the actual model?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1190" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-06-04T10:28:51.740" LastActivityDate="2018-06-04T11:25:22.653" Title="How to sort G-code on SD card based on material (ABS|PLA|SBS)?" Tags="|prusa-i3|g-code|microsd|sd|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6086" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6085" CreationDate="2018-06-04T09:20:49.873" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Good question as I also ran into some files not remembering for which purpose or which material I printed these. The online G-code visualizers do not display the temperature or the correct filament width, so basically that won't help you (unless you modify the open source programs...). Reading from firmware would not be possible without adding a new feature, as far as I know, this is not implemented in Marlin Firmware or in Prusa firmware (which is based on Marlin).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When using a printer server like OctoPrint, you can store your G-code files in a folder structure that you can define yourself; so basically create a directory structure based on the material type, brand, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, it is relatively easy to write a small program in Python to read a file and interpret the lines (even if you're not a programmer). There are lots of tutorials and examples to find to open files read the file e.g. line by line and detect strings to identify the settings for G-codes M104/M109 (hot end temperature) and M140/M190 (bed temperature). Usually you slice your models with a specific set of bed and hot end temperature (which you know), so basically you can find out which material was meant to be printed with the G-code file. You could even let the program sort the files for you by moving them into separate folders.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'll add it to my list of things I'd like to do some rainy day! :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Note that some printers use different, or even custom G-codes to control bed temperature; e.g. when reading Ultimaker 3 G-code files you cannot see the bed temperature!&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-06-04T11:25:22.653" LastActivityDate="2018-06-04T11:25:22.653" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6087" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6055" CreationDate="2018-06-04T12:14:23.793" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;To use skirts as a bed adhesion tool&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Make the value of Skirt Offset from part to 0 &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Set the number of Skirt outlines to 10 or 15 ,so that it forms an extended outer perimeter of the first layer&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;notes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;This also doubles as a primer for the nozzle &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Also can be used to make minor adjustments to the distance between the bed and the nozzle , before the first layer begins printing &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9769" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-06-04T12:36:01.597" LastActivityDate="2018-06-04T12:36:01.597" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6088" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6089" CreationDate="2018-06-04T13:14:29.050" Score="5" ViewCount="6663" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm having an issue with my very first printer, a Monoprice Select Mini V2. After doing about 20 successful prints on it, the Z axis is suddenly acting very odd.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I 'home' the Z axis and move the nozzle on the X and Y, I can do the paper test on all four corners of the bed without issue - the leveling is near-perfect. But when I start a print job, the nozzle is much lower - by at least 1-2 mm. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This causes the print head to grind against the print bed, which I unfortunately need to replace as it's pretty much destroyed. The nozzle is so much lower at the start of a print job than it is at the home position that it ground a permanent line on the bed. It's trying to go so low, there's enough pressure on the nozzle to not let any filament escape - leaving a bad gouge like I dragged a screwdriver across the print surface. Not good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's not the Z-axis limiter switch. I confirmed that is both working and secured tightly to the printer body. When homing the Z axis, I can hear the switch click and the printer stops at that position correctly. It's only when I start a print job that it ends up lower, almost as if it's ignoring the switch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also eliminated my slicer software from the equation by printing something I had printed successfully just a couple hours prior - without reslicing or modifying the GCODE file at all. I'm at the point now where I can't print anything that I could before, without having this problem. My heat and speed settings remained untouched.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I solve this? The issue popped up just after doing a successful print. What gives? I've heard of the opposite problem (Z-Axis 'too high'), especially after changing nozzles, but not 'too low', and I've never seen it where the print job actually starts lower than the true zero position. Help!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user10974" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-12-10T06:22:47.217" LastActivityDate="2021-05-30T14:33:48.703" Title="Z-Axis zero/home position is higher than the actual print starting position" Tags="|z-axis|bed-leveling|monoprice-select-mini|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6089" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6088" CreationDate="2018-06-04T13:33:44.857" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Check the Z-drive for any component looseness. Look at belts, gears, anything with screws. Wiggle things mercilessly checking for play. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the start of a normal print run, the the print head typically rises up very high as the head warms up (depends on software) and then lowers to print. If your homing paper test happened with the head near the limit switch, then the difference between those two use cases is the Z-distance traveled to get to the same place. You have eliminated software and electrical considerations, which leaves mechanical considerations. A slipping gear or belt might contribute to this odd behavior you describe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10938" LastActivityDate="2018-06-04T13:33:44.857" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6090" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6091" CreationDate="2018-06-04T17:12:49.220" Score="4" ViewCount="1777" Body="&lt;p&gt;We wanted to test the post process properties of PVA but did not want to print anything.  We unloaded the ABS that was in the printer and then started loading some PVA.  After the PVA was loaded we let it keep going through the loading process until it pushed all the PVA out and we had our test sample.  We then stopped the loading process and started the loading process again to put the ABS back so we could continue with normal printing procedures. Now, the ABS will not load into the right side and started making a clicking/ticking noise.  Our printer is a Flashforge Dreamer.  What is wrong with my printer and how can I fix it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10975" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-06-04T18:24:27.733" LastActivityDate="2018-10-11T07:40:27.250" Title="3D printer filament will not load after running the printer out of filament" Tags="|extruder|filament|diy-3d-printer|abs|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6091" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6090" CreationDate="2018-06-04T17:37:29.450" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Run some cleaning filament through the extruder at the printing temperature of your PVA or ABS filament, whichever is greater, until the old stuff has been completely displaced. Then load the new filament until the cleaning filament has been completely displaced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This should be done every time you are switching materials, unless you don't mind disassembling the extruder and/or hotend and clean it out manually.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10976" LastActivityDate="2018-06-04T17:37:29.450" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6092" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6090" CreationDate="2018-06-04T18:33:42.810" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;PVA is nasty filament to print (from experience). I use it in the Ultimaker 3 in a separate designed core (BB) and even with that core the filament frequently cooks up and carbonizes clogging the nozzle resulting in grinding of the filament at the feeder (it also attracts water really easy, so keep it in the bag with desiccant bags).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To clean the inside of the nozzle, a few techniques exist to remove blockage. E.g. by performing a &lt;code&gt;cold pull&lt;/code&gt; or using the &lt;code&gt;atomic method&lt;/code&gt;. Both techniques rely on the mechanism to insert the (cleaning) filament when it's hot and remove it quickly at a lower temperature. E.g. see &lt;a href=&quot;https://printrbot.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/articles/202100554-Unclogging-the-Hot-End-Using-the-Cold-Pull-Method&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;https://rigid.ink/blogs/news/under-extrusion-problems-or-clicking-sounds-heres-why-and-how-to-fix-it&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The trick is that you pull out all the goo inside the nozzle, you do that by raising the temperature and sticking some (cleaning or high temperature) filament (your ABS will do fine) to the goo. When the temperature lowers, you quickly pull and hope that some of the goo sticks to you cleaning filament. Cut of the tip and repeat until no goo or burnt particles come out and you can push the cleaning filament through the nozzle. You do not need the automatic feeding, it's all manual labor, just raise temperature through the menu and press the lever of the extruder to load the cleaning filament, lower temp and pull back after cooling a bit while pressing the extruder lever.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-10-11T07:40:27.250" LastActivityDate="2018-10-11T07:40:27.250" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6094" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6088" CreationDate="2018-06-04T19:41:13.217" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This ended up being a combination of print bed height and an unknown slicer profile parameter (probably the first layer height setting).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I completely uninstalled Cura, wiped out my profiles and downloading the ones from Monoprice, installed an older version of Cura and loaded them in. I also issued an &lt;code&gt;M502&lt;/code&gt; and &lt;code&gt;M500&lt;/code&gt; command to reset the EEPROM/firmware.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That seemed to have a tiny bit of improvement, but my first layer was still maybe 0.5 mm low (it was no longer grinding against the bed but was still creating a 'canal' with the plastic). I then did a tiny adjustment on each bed screw to lower it on the Z axis, just barely turning the screws, as evenly as I could.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An initial print after doing that seems to be going well. I may have to do one more teeny tiny adjustment to the bed height again. So it was probably a combination of slicer settings and bed height, the latter I probably made worse when initially trying to solve the problem. Lesson learned...kinda. I still need a new print bed!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user10974" LastEditorDisplayName="user10974" LastEditDate="2018-06-04T19:48:39.873" LastActivityDate="2018-06-04T19:48:39.873" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6095" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6080" CreationDate="2018-06-04T21:12:14.223" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Retraction distance, print speed (I don't know about Combing mode or Comb Distance but I doubt that's the problem) have IMO nothing to do with this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Neither would &lt;em&gt;hotend&lt;/em&gt; temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;It shouldn't be a problem with the Z-axis or the temperature control. It also only appears on large objects.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You have a very fine X/Y layer so albeit your affirmation, I must raise the idea that it might actually be exactly the temperature control of the heat bed (if you have one) and it definitely seems to be the z axis. How would this problem appear otherwise?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You say it affects only large objects, and also that it doesn't affect PLA, does it affect large PLA objects? Photos would be helpful :-) !&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;My hypothesis is that you have a heat-bed and that the heatbed is changing the z-height.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It does so when it changes temperature (because material contracts/expands according to temperature), and heatbeds change temperature all the time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Usually you have the same temperature control method all the time, so small or big objects doesn't change the method, but what they change is the time they stay on the same level; small objects less, big objects much so the z-bulging will be seen if you spend 2 minutes on one layer, while it might be mitigated on a layer taking 20 seconds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What's your heat bed temperature control software / how is it configured?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;FYI I use Marlin and I get these problems when I don't (correctly) auto-tune the heat-bed pid or use bang-bang beat-bed heating.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8328" LastActivityDate="2018-06-04T21:12:14.223" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6096" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6097" CreationDate="2018-06-05T01:22:33.147" Score="6" ViewCount="1216" Body="&lt;p&gt;2 days into a 5-day build, I came home from work and found the build ruined because the build plate had slipped.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm using a Raise 3D N2 Plus printer, with the standard glass build plate that comes with it, attached via 4 clips: two stationary ones at the back, and two standard binder clips at the front, which shipped with the printer, which hold the glass build plate plate to the heated surface beneath.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The left-side clip had come off of the heated surface, remaining clipped to the top and bottom of the glass plate, and the whole thing slipped an inch or so.  I immediately canceled the build, and I can start another one, but before I do I'd like to know how this happened and what I can do to prevent it from happening again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What typically causes the plate clips to come free?  Is there anything I can do about it?  Will adding more clips around the edges help?  I'd really prefer not to ruin more builds if I can help it...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10981" LastActivityDate="2018-06-05T08:44:14.770" Title="What can cause the build plate to slip?" Tags="|build-plate|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6097" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6096" CreationDate="2018-06-05T06:25:13.210" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your nozzle may have caught up with the print somehow pushing the binder clip off by moving the glass slate. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Apparently this is a more &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.3dhubs.com/talk/thread/raise3d-n2-plus-glass-bed-not-secure&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;common&lt;/a&gt; problem. Try adding more binder clips, this has been reported to help preventing shifting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maybe with some ingenuity you could develop your own fastening system depending on the bed. Alternatively, you could make the underside of the glass a little sticky so that it does not move easily (a little PVA based glue maybe or hairspray, I've done that with my mouse mat with 3DLAC :) which is now not slipping from the desk).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-06-05T06:32:20.830" LastActivityDate="2018-06-05T06:32:20.830" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6098" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6096" CreationDate="2018-06-05T08:44:14.770" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Before two month ago I tested double-sided tape between bed and glass plate. It's awesome and really works perfectly. No more clips, so I'm able to print to the complete area. And no more slipping. Don't use that much tape, just a little bit at the edges should be totally fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10881" LastActivityDate="2018-06-05T08:44:14.770" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6099" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5876" CreationDate="2018-06-05T09:10:42.583" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Filling out holes in a mesh created using large liar data points is a mess.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;br&gt;The actual way to do it in the industry is to manually fill all holes ( Yes I know it takes for ever to do and people get paid to do this ) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;br&gt;Import the mesh into Autodesk 3Ds max and go about fixing the holes one at a time if you want it to be accurate or select all and use the cap function . &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this solves your problem .&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9769" LastActivityDate="2018-06-05T09:10:42.583" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6100" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6101" CreationDate="2018-06-05T09:35:19.560" Score="3" ViewCount="730" Body="&lt;p&gt;How much should I subdivide a surface in preparation for 3D printing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For computer graphics, I know that I need to balance the smoothness and the rendering time, but for printing, I'd like it to be completely smooth. Are there any reasons why I shouldn't subdivide a lot (e.g. 7x) in preparation for 3D printing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10977" LastActivityDate="2018-06-05T10:22:24.597" Title="Subdivision surface for STL files" Tags="|3d-models|surface|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6101" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6100" CreationDate="2018-06-05T10:22:24.597" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Subdividing an existing mesh further won't do anything because you're not adding additional detail, just representing the same thing with more triangles. Subdividing as &quot;preparation&quot; doesn't make much sense. You should make sure the mesh is created with sufficient detail &lt;em&gt;while modelling&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A mesh created for 3d printing should generally have a lot more triangles than one created for use in rendering, but within reason. It doesn't make sense to make the mesh (much) more detailed than the printer can print, and similarly having lots of triangles can make the slicer slow or unreliable. As a very rough guideline, I would say that 10.000-100.000 triangles per model is reasonable (but this obviously depends on the size and level of detail).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some slicers may output G-code that will have segments corresponding to each and every triangle in the model, even if these segments are very tiny. This may cause the printer to slow down a lot while printing, but most slicers take care of this by merging small segments into larger ones. Depending on your slicer, you might have to watch out for not having the triangles be so tiny that the number of segments created becomes a problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastActivityDate="2018-06-05T10:22:24.597" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6102" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6103" CreationDate="2018-06-05T13:37:43.077" Score="5" ViewCount="19661" Body="&lt;p&gt;Has anyone configured BLTouch with Marlin firmware?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I could only find videos about older firmware version. I followed &lt;a href=&quot;https://docs.wixstatic.com/ugd/f5a1c8_77c6538efc934dbeab2f6e06e175ec35.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this document&lt;/a&gt;. To avoid causing any damage to the printer, I removed all connections, took the board out and connected a stepper to Z-axis terminal and BLTouch to Z-min and servo 1. All other axes are not connected. X-min and Y-min end stops were shorted using jumper (Mine is NC configuration). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After updating the firmware, I can move the X and Y steppers, but not Z stepper. There's a blue light glowing inside BLTouch, which turns off if I remove Servo connections.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;code&gt;M119&lt;/code&gt; command shows all end stops are open.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do I have to change pull up settings of end stop?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I cuurently have:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Marlin 1.1.6&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;BLTouch Classic&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's my &lt;a href=&quot;https://drive.google.com/open?id=1hX5qZ3nnSY7cxfvX1J8z8wPrAGqynfKL&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;configuration&lt;/a&gt; file&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NIoLA.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NIoLA.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10670" LastEditorUserId="10670" LastEditDate="2018-06-12T06:51:20.293" LastActivityDate="2018-10-28T07:08:54.577" Title="Configuring BLTouch with Marlin firmware" Tags="|marlin|ramps-1.4|bltouch|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6103" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6102" CreationDate="2018-06-05T16:18:26.120" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;For security reasons, you cannot move Z until home position is applied to X, Y and Z.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With the level sensor attached, we need to home X and Y, and then Z will be homed in the middle of the bed (as configured). Execute &lt;code&gt;G28&lt;/code&gt; to home all axis and then you shall be able to run 'Z'.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To test that, you can unplug just steppers (with power switched off to prevent damaging the stepper drivers) and move X and Y manually to home position, then just give a touch to the BL sensor (when servo/pin) is deployed to confirm home position.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9730" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-06-05T18:08:23.110" LastActivityDate="2018-06-05T18:08:23.110" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6104" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6102" CreationDate="2018-06-06T08:19:46.973" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit:&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;em&gt;The answer below reflected the original question and upload of the configuration that was incorrectly configured. The value of this answer can be found in checking your configuration thoroughly before you post a question. It also answers the question whether pull-up resistors need to be set for the end stops.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically you need to follow the instructions of the manual/sheet you mention in your question. Be sure to &lt;strong&gt;get all the changes correct in your configuration.h&lt;/strong&gt; file!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;E.g. in your configuration&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;//#define NUM_SERVOS 3 // Servo index starts with 0 for M280 command&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;should be&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#define NUM_SERVOS 3 // Servo index starts with 0 for M280 command&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So no servo was defined (the servo pulls up the pin of the BLTouch sensor)! Also your BLTouch delay is &lt;code&gt;375&lt;/code&gt; while &lt;code&gt;100&lt;/code&gt; is prescribed. Please check that you managed to get all the proposed changes in the configuration file (as I stopped comparing for you after finding 2 errors in your configuration!) as I believe that you have not updated your configuration correctly as described. There should be no differences in setup for Marlin 1.1.6 or 1.1.8.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;To answer your question&lt;/strong&gt;: No, you do not need to change pull-up settings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-06-12T16:38:57.853" LastActivityDate="2018-06-12T16:38:57.853" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6105" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6041" CreationDate="2018-06-06T15:52:21.123" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;First if you print directly to the glass with a glue stick, over time there will be enough oil build up that you will not have this issue. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Following, if the change in heat temp on a bare glass is not enough to pop it off, I personally use a thin strong blade, specifically a leather cutting blade. Note this blade will through mats with ease. That said that blade is made to cut leather, your thumb is easier to slice by a lot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Last if you cannot do these, then simply print a few raft layers and don't worry about damaging at the removal point. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2146" LastEditorUserId="2146" LastEditDate="2018-06-08T00:08:57.920" LastActivityDate="2018-06-08T00:08:57.920" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6106" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2018-06-06T21:32:15.833" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Anet A8 is low-cost Chinese clone of the Prusa i3 design of Josef Průša. The design of the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.anet3d.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Anet&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.anet3d.com/ProductsStd_179.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;A8&lt;/a&gt; is focused on creating an easy accessible, low cost budget printer rather than maximizing the quality of the printer. The acrylic frame does not provide enough stiffness like the metal frame of the original, but the community has developed a lot of &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprint.wiki/reprap/anet/a8&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;upgrades&lt;/a&gt; for this printer to modify it to a decent printer for its value.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-10-03T06:16:02.947" LastActivityDate="2018-10-03T06:16:02.947" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6107" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2018-06-06T21:32:15.833" Score="0" Body="This tag should be used for specific questions about specific issues for the Anet A8 printers." OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-10-03T06:16:02.947" LastActivityDate="2018-10-03T06:16:02.947" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6108" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5413" CreationDate="2018-06-06T21:47:23.210" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;A lot of people complain on the filament insertion of the Anet A8. Personally, I have no problems at all. I cut the filament under a sharp angle and pre-bend the filament (not completely straight) and push it in the hole, it works every time without having to disassemble the extruder fan. Note that if you have the throat screwed in too much that it sticks out of the aluminum throat holder of the extruder (so not the part where the brass nozzle screws in) it is way more difficult to insert. I kept the top of the throat more or less flush with the block.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other techniques to insert filament include:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;cutting the old filament (straight cut) and let the extruder feed while you press the new filament on top of the old filament stump, if done correctly the friction will feed the new filament right after the old,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;print &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2366523&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;filament guides&lt;/a&gt; for inside the extruder gear cavity,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;removable or magnetic fan brackets.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-01-15T22:45:57.053" LastActivityDate="2021-01-15T22:45:57.053" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6109" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2018-06-07T04:58:21.680" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The commercial software Simplify3D by Simplify3D is a slicing software tool. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to its website it's providing &lt;em&gt;everything you need to produce print files and includes for instance model setup and plating, slicing and print file creation, pre-print simulations, customizable support structures, mesh analysis and repair, machine control and monitoring&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2019-08-31T09:48:45.503" LastActivityDate="2019-08-31T09:48:45.503" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6110" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2018-06-07T04:58:21.680" Score="0" Body="Questions related to the software slicing program called Simplify3D" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-06-07T09:50:01.100" LastActivityDate="2018-06-07T09:50:01.100" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6111" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6112" CreationDate="2018-06-07T07:27:17.280" Score="6" ViewCount="1434" Body="&lt;p&gt;IANAE (I am not an engineer), but I've been wondering: wouldn't it make more sense to limit the length of the melt-zone and hot-end as much as possible? I've been having a lot of problems with nylon causing jams inside the heat-block, this being the region where the filament is no longer rigid, but becomes squishy then liquid as it is heated. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my extruder (E3d v6) there is a cold section, then a heat-break then about 20mm of hot-end.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ICWoS.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ICWoS.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Extruder cross-section with heat break&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the heating of the filament took place at the last possible moment, say the last couple of mm before the orifice, wouldn't this not only alleviate jamming problems caused by soft filament deforming, but also allow for much more precision with extrusion - less hysteresis due to the reduced volume of semi-liquid material.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eFbAQ.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eFbAQ.png&quot; alt=&quot;Extruder cross-section without heat break&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd imagine that this would work by having a heated nozzle tip, say a nichrome ring around the nozzle orifice, and as the filament hits the inside of the bottom of the nozzle it melts and is forced out the hole.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10093" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-06-07T09:49:17.550" LastActivityDate="2018-06-07T09:49:17.550" Title="Would a really short melt-zone be beneficial" Tags="|hotend|extrusion|development|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6112" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6111" CreationDate="2018-06-07T08:44:50.077" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is a trade-off between the length of the melt zone and the speed at which you can print. The filament itself is somewhat of an insulator, so as the outside of the filament is heated up by being in contact with the melt zone, the inside stays cold. Therefore, the filament needs a certain amount of time inside the melt zone for the inside to fully melt. If you have a shorter melt zone, you need to print more slowly to give the filament enough time to melt. This is precisely the reason why the &lt;a href=&quot;https://e3d-online.com/volcano-kits&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;E3D volcano&lt;/a&gt; exists. It has a longer melt zone, so you can print more quickly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can partially compensate for a shorter melt zone by heating the nozzle up more, but there is an upper limit to how hot you can go (you don't want the outside of the filament to &lt;em&gt;burn&lt;/em&gt; before the inside is melted).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastActivityDate="2018-06-07T08:44:50.077" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6114" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2018-06-07T10:16:35.300" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;A &lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/wiki/Stepper_motor_driver&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;stepper driver&lt;/a&gt; is an &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stepper_motor#Stepper_motor_driver_circuits&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;electronic circuit&lt;/a&gt; typically mounted on a driver board to plug in your 3D printer control board. Alternatively, these circuits may already be soldered to the printer board itself. Stepper motors cannot be directly controlled by the board CPU, so these circuits power the stepper motors directly from the supply voltage and control signals given by the CPU. To &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.machinedesign.com/basics-design/microstepping&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;smooth&lt;/a&gt; the stepper output, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.micromo.com/technical-library/stepper-motor-tutorials/microstepping-myths-and-realities&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;micro-stepping&lt;/a&gt; is used to smooth the input to the stepper motor. Various stepper drivers are available for various micro stepping values.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-06-08T00:28:36.907" LastActivityDate="2018-06-08T00:28:36.907" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6115" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2018-06-07T10:16:35.300" Score="0" Body="Questions related to various types of stepper motor drivers" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-06-08T00:28:25.410" LastActivityDate="2018-06-08T00:28:25.410" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6116" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-06-07T13:57:15.437" Score="4" ViewCount="864" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I got my first 3d printer, with 2 nozzles. I thought why not, I may want to print 2 colours, dissolvable supports etc in future. But for now, only using one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've had good success on small items so far, but when I try to print something that's a big on the bigger side, my &quot;spare&quot; nozzle seems to crash into the side of the print - either snapping a bit off if it's delicate, or losing bed adhesion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What could be the possible cause of this? I've levelled and re-levelled the bed, but I am losing the heart to keep trying. I have more half-printed broken bits now that successful parts...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not sure of the relevance, but I'm printing in PLA&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11004" LastActivityDate="2018-06-07T15:44:33.617" Title="Dual extruder unused nozzle is breaking prints" Tags="|dual-nozzle|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6118" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6116" CreationDate="2018-06-07T15:44:33.617" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I started this as a comment, but it got too long. I have been working for much too long on a multi-extruder printer, and so I understand that the fixed, dual-head designs are somewhat fraught with problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am assuming that this is a mechanism in which the two nozzles are inline in the X-axis, the Y-axis is parallel to the bed and normal to the line between the two nozzles, and the Z-axis is normal to both X and Y (and usually vertical).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you &quot;bed level&quot;, is it clear that both nozzles are &quot;exactly&quot; the same height from the bed everywhere on the bed?  If there is anything non-parallel about the movement plane and the bed, it can cause one head to dip lower than the other when over the same position on the bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is twist along the Y-axis of the heads possible?  A twist could be because of either looseness or compliance (springiness) in the X-axis.  The twist could be induced either through acceleration or by a nozzle being pushed up in reaction to the plastic extrusion against the object.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is the printing from the active nozzle properly flat, or does it produce verticle bumps?  Any vertical ripples will cause any head passing over them to bump against them.  Something will need to comply with the force.  Either the head will melt through the bump and smear it out a bit, the bed will be pushed downward, or the nozzle pushed upward.  If the passive nozzle hits a bump, that compliance will be conveyed to the active nozzle, creating another defect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is the passive nozzle cold or hot?  It may help to heat the unused nozzle so that it can melt the plastic it touches rather than pushing against it.  If this helps at all, it may be necessary to slow down printing so that the passive nozzle has more time to melt through the obstacle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you find that the problem is bump defects from the active nozzle, it might help to remove the passive nozzle completely and focus on printing a smooth, even surface with the active nozzle.  Debugging that would be easier without the passive nozzle compounding the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2082" LastActivityDate="2018-06-07T15:44:33.617" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6119" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6120" CreationDate="2018-06-07T19:31:09.973" Score="20" ViewCount="56590" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm in the process of building my own head unit / stereo prototype for a car, which will have a 3D-printed enclosure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My concern is that cars can get quite hot in the sun, and even more so if you live in hot climates. Some estimations put the interior of cars getting up to 50-60&amp;nbsp;°C, sometimes even in only 20&amp;nbsp;°C weather due to the 'greenhouse' effect created in the car. I live in a fairly temperate climate, but the summers can still get up to 20-29&amp;nbsp;°C (80-85&amp;nbsp;°F), and my car might get up to 60&amp;nbsp;°C/150&amp;nbsp;°F on a hot day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The part won't be exposed &lt;em&gt;directly&lt;/em&gt; to the sun, but will obviously be exposed to heat both from the interior of the car when in the sun, and potentially from the engine radiating heat through the firewall, though the latter factor will differ from car to car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I be concerned using PLA for my part? If not, what material, if any, would be better suited for these possible temperatures (other than metal)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user10974" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-07-03T11:26:35.520" LastActivityDate="2023-04-02T19:53:31.443" Title="Can you put PLA parts in your car (in the sun)?" Tags="|pla|filament-choice|stability|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6120" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6119" CreationDate="2018-06-07T20:28:08.223" Score="18" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, PLA cannot be used in cars standing in the sun. Temperatures can locally get over 50 °C (122 °F).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have printed sun visor hinge pins from PLA for a car (not exposed to direct sunlight either), but after one day in the sun (it usually doesn't get over 29 °C or about 85 ˚F here too) the pin deformed (only printed it for form fitting). The actual pin was eventually printed in PETG, and even with PETG the part deformed a little when it got really hot in the car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your part might not get that hot as it is lower in the car, but you could best print parts in Nylon (Polyamide, PA), ABS or any other high temperature resistant Co-Polymer (e.g. made from Amphora HT5300), there are lots to choose from nowadays.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it is a non load bearing component that is not stressed (e.g. a cover or a bushing) it could be printed in PLA, but I would not take a change and would print it directly in a more temperature resistant material.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Downloading some of the technical data sheets from various filaments will give you for &lt;a href=&quot;https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/49911-pla#technical&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;PLA&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Not suitable for&lt;/strong&gt; long term outdoor usage or applications where the&#xA;printed part is exposed to temperatures higher than 50 °C (122 °F).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;similar for &lt;a href=&quot;https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/49913-nylon#technical&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Nylon&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Not suitable for&lt;/strong&gt; applications where the printed part is exposed to&#xA;temperatures higher than 80 °C (176 °F).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To complete the overview, generally, materials should not be exposed prolonged periods of time above (give or take):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;70 °C (158 °F) for basic Co-Polymers&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;85 °C (185 °F) for ABS&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;100 °C (212 °F) for enhanced Co-Polymers and ASA&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;105 °C (221 °F) for Polypropylene (PP)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;110 °C (230 °F) for Polycarbonate (PC)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-07-28T12:26:29.000" LastActivityDate="2021-07-28T12:26:29.000" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6121" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5027" CreationDate="2018-06-07T20:31:06.763" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The specs for 2020 aluminum profile is here.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://8020.net/20-2020-black-fb.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://8020.net/20-2020-black-fb.html&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;This site even has the cad profile files for download.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have noticed that some people have suggested using V-Slot from&#xA;open builds... however, V-Slot has a V for the V groove wheels which this design is not using so in my opinion there is absolutely no reason to pay a lot more for V-Slot when your not even using V groove wheels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have also noticed that some people have suggested using 2040 T-Slot and the&#xA;link above has a search and you can find the profile for 2040 T-Slot.&#xA;I agree that T-Slot could be better; however, I would build first&#xA;with 2020 T-Slot to see for yourself and then report your findings after&#xA;upgrading to 2040 T-Slot. My guess is that you will find that 2020 T-Slot is enough if you use the recommend corner brackets... if your planning on using 3D printed corner brackets... then it might be necessary to use 2040 T-Slot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9448" LastEditorUserId="4927" LastEditDate="2018-06-07T20:55:04.927" LastActivityDate="2018-06-07T20:55:04.927" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6122" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6119" CreationDate="2018-06-07T21:31:52.333" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you put PLA parts in a sealed plastic bag (or two to keep it dry) and simmer in water (212&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;F or  100&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C), the part &quot;anneals&quot;. The time taken varies with the part shape, but for small parts should be about 15-30&amp;nbsp;minutes. You can simmer longer if unsure, but it provides no additional benefit once the part is annealed. When you remove and cool the annealed part, it will feel harder and more compact. You may also notice a slight hazing or color change.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Annealed parts become a bit more resistant to heat warp. The annealing process shrinks and hardens your part (I've annealed gears) so you need to account for the shrinkage by making the unannealed part slightly larger. I do this for stepper mounts or gears as needed. Putting your part in the passenger compartment of a car can work depending on your climate. My daughter-in-law has a camera mount on her dashboard showing significant warp, but she still uses it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's &lt;a href=&quot;https://rigid.ink/blogs/news/how-to-anneal-your-3d-prints-for-strength&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;more information&lt;/a&gt; and I'm sure you can find more...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10938" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-07-03T11:28:22.467" LastActivityDate="2019-07-03T11:28:22.467" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6123" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6119" CreationDate="2018-06-08T00:49:11.697" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;The sun will rot most, if not all plastics, with PLA, ABS and PETG rotting to varying degrees and at differing rates. So, if even part of your enclosure, such as the edges, are visible, they will invariably be exposed to the sun at some point (although maybe not sufficiently enough)  which will make them brittle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, as you say, your main concern here is not direct sunlight, but heat. As this informative article, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.iepas.ucar.edu/using-pla-for-long-term-outdoor-applications/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Using PLA for Long-Term Outdoor Applications&lt;/a&gt;, suggests:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PLA is great as the warping is less than with ABS.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Interestingly, it also notes (again related to sunlight, not a concern in your case):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a side note, PLA is referenced as considerably UV resistant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Similar Questions&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whilst your question is not a duplicate, as such, there are already a number of questions (and answers) on this topic, that I remember having seen and being relevant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whilst I have quoted &lt;em&gt;some&lt;/em&gt; of the relevant parts below, it might also be worth taking a look at the &lt;em&gt;other&lt;/em&gt; posts on these links:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/2952/pla-use-outdoors/2982#2982&quot;&gt;PLA use outdoors?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keep in mind that PLA has a much lower temperature point, where is starts getting flexible. I once had PLA-printed parts in my car in the summer for 3 hours and when I came back, they where bent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know about the weather conditions in your local environment, but if you experience hot temperatures and your sign is hanging in direct sunlight, I would suggest to make sure you secure the letters against bending (e.g. cover them with a coat of epoxy or something like this).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/4487/pla-continuous-operative-temperature/4502#4502&quot;&gt;PLA continuous operative temperature&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The property you're looking for in the thermoplastic (which will determine the continuous operating temperature) is glass transition temperature. This is the point at which the plastic begins to flow, and becomes deformable as &lt;a href=&quot;http://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/4487/pla-continuous-operative-temperature#answer-4488&quot;&gt;EvilTeach described&lt;/a&gt;. PLA reaches this state at around 60 °C, whereas ABS is around 105°C, just suiting your specifications. To go a bit further, polycarbonate offers a glass transition temperature of around 150 °C, and Ultem at 217 °C.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/3968/abs-or-pla-for-structural-printed-parts/3969#3969&quot;&gt;ABS or PLA for structural printed parts?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;50 °C is hot for you. PLA's glass transition temperature is 65 °C. A car in the mid-day sun can get very hot indeed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;... if the part is designed to be strong enough for its use in PLA, it will be no better in &amp;quot;stronger&amp;quot; ABS. If the PLA part will be &amp;quot;more precise&amp;quot; and &amp;quot;less warped&amp;quot; - that may well make it better for its use. Other than a widespread community dedication to self-replication, (or mostly self-replicating with some metal parts) there's plenty of arguments for making most printer parts out of machined metal, for that matter - much stronger than ABS or PLA.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10/3d-printing-for-outdoor-use-what-types-of-filament-are-most-weather-resistant&quot;&gt;3d printing for outdoor use: what types of filament are most weather resistant?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PLA also will slowly melt in direct sunlight. I have seen this one firsthand, having left a print on my windowsill and watching it slowly morph with the weight of objects on top of it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also related, temperature wise, although not &lt;em&gt;strictly&lt;/em&gt; in-car related (although that is where you would most likely find a travel mug), is the most informative answer by Ryan Carlyle, which makes mention of &lt;em&gt;annealing&lt;/em&gt; as suggested by &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6119/can-you-put-pla-parts-in-your-car-in-the-sun#answer-6122&quot;&gt;OyaMist Aeroponics's answer&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/1128/travel-mug-woes/1134#1134&quot;&gt;Travel Mug Woes&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is possible to anneal PLA to survive higher temperatures, as this increases the crystallinity of the polymer and thus makes it more heat-stable. However, that is highly experimental and results will vary considerably with filament provider, color/pigment, and annealing process used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/3853/which-is-more-durable-to-sunlight-weather-pla-abs-or-petg&quot;&gt;Which is more durable to sunlight/weather - PLA, ABS or PETG&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PLA would be a non-starter for outdoor use as it's biodegradable and can breakdown in sunlight. Albeit slowly, but won't be useful for long term project.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4762" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:29:41.667" LastActivityDate="2019-06-29T23:10:44.497" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6124" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-06-08T09:29:05.637" Score="5" ViewCount="2282" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm using a second hand Flashforge Dreamer with ABS filament and Cura as slicer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Flashforge Dreamer cannot read the printing (G-code) file Cura creates, I think due to not knowing what the printer firmware is? I want to use some of the Cura features that the FlashPrint software does not have. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What firmware does Flashforge Dreamer use? I think I have to input to cura the machine details (name not listed on list of printers in the drop down menu) and even Google could not tell me, nor the Flashforge website.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cura has a built-in list of printer specs, but no Flashforge, so even the name of a clone type of the Flashforge using the same type of firmware would help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11018" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-06-08T12:58:14.367" LastActivityDate="2018-06-08T12:58:14.367" Title="Flashforge Dreamer not able to read Cura created G-code file" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|firmware|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6125" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6124" CreationDate="2018-06-08T10:47:58.527" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;For the Flashforge Creator model an alternative firmware is available; Sailfish. However, Sailfish is not available for the Flashforge Dreamer. As a matter of fact, no alternative firmware is available for the Dreamer as a consequence of the Flashforge Dreamer being closed hardware and closed source. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not knowing the flavor af firmware (as it is closed source and could well be using a custom firmware build) using Cura to slice models for G-code files gives no guarantee for successful printing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To be able to use Cura you would have to switch the current board from the Flashforge Dreamer and replace it with a board that accepts Marlin Firmware. Note that there is no default configuration for this pronter available so this requires a little work from you to go through the Marlin configuration file and adjust various constants to make your printer work. &lt;em&gt;[&lt;strong&gt;edit:&lt;/strong&gt; As pointed out below in the comments, in the process you will lose some of the maximum speed the Dreamer is capable of!]&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another option is to buy a license of e.g. &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.simplify3d.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Simplify3D&lt;/a&gt; (&lt;em&gt;note that I have no affiliation with Simplfy3D!&lt;/em&gt;) as &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.simplify3d.com/software/check-compatibility/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;they claim to support this printer&lt;/a&gt;. There could be other software suites that support your printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-06-08T11:35:33.483" LastActivityDate="2018-06-08T11:35:33.483" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6126" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1080" CreationDate="2018-06-08T21:16:37.853" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's a new timelapse plugin called &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/FormerLurker/Octolapse&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;octolapse&lt;/a&gt; that may help. One of the things I noticed with the default timelapses is that lots of things change from image to image, which results in HUGE amounts of mpeg artifacts as it has to constantly redraw large parts of the screen. With octolapse and it's stabilized images the change from image to image is very minimal... mostly just the new layer. The reduction of how much stuff is moving means the same, or even lower, encoded bitrate produces far superior movies.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Compare this 11.1 MB file from the default timelapse tool:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://cabbey.smugmug.com/Fun/3D-Printing/i-9DrS42n/A&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://cabbey.smugmug.com/Fun/3D-Printing/i-9DrS42n/A&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;to this 6.8MB file from octolapse:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://cabbey.smugmug.com/Fun/3D-Printing/i-p3GvvhH/A&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://cabbey.smugmug.com/Fun/3D-Printing/i-p3GvvhH/A&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that these are the SAME PRINT JOB, as I had both tools recording at the same time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11022" LastActivityDate="2018-06-08T21:16:37.853" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6127" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5921" CreationDate="2018-06-08T23:29:09.347" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I heated it up and was able to extract some plastic that had gotten jammed in the hot ends opening. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I heated up the hotend by commenting out all the other lines of code in Cura's start and end G-code tabs (must have missed some because the printer moved. I would just unplug the printer when it stopped moving). I used an SD card but it would probably work with USB too. I tried to force the filament in to force the jam out of the hotend, but that did nothing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I took apart the extruder assembly and discovered that a section of filament that was too wide got stuck in the hotend's entrance. I pulled the filament out using me multitool and put the extruder back together. Hope this helps others with a similar problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6883" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-07-02T20:26:47.820" LastActivityDate="2018-07-02T20:26:47.820" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6128" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-06-09T06:03:22.857" Score="3" ViewCount="3633" Body="&lt;p&gt;3d printing is a fun hobby for me. The  problem that I face is deviation in X or Y axis dimensions. When I print something with specific dimensions there is 0.7 or 0.4 mm difference (smaller in X or Y dimension) when I compare it with the design. Even when I print a cylinder, it is oval. I don't have a problem with the Z-axis. My 3D printer is a Prusa i3.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I fix this problem? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Can I solve it it through the software? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do I have to change something of the hardware of the printer?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11024" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-06-09T10:05:36.380" LastActivityDate="2018-06-09T10:05:36.380" Title="Problem in X and Y-axis dimensions" Tags="|prusa-i3|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6129" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6128" CreationDate="2018-06-09T06:43:31.450" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Usually uneven dimensions in X and Y directions are a result of improper belt tension of one of your belts. With improper belt tension, the positioning of the printer head is less accurate and typically results in non-circular prints. You should check the belt tension and adjust the tension, not too sloppy, and not too much tension (as it stresses the stepper motor which can lead to missing micro steps).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Furthermore, the uneven dimensional differences you mention (are these values you mention for similar sized dimensions? e.g. is this measured on a test cube print), if they are smaller than the design, and if it is a complex design, can also be related to shrinkage, e.g. ABS is a well known material that shrinks. Plastic shrinkage is basically the same in all directions, but complex shapes could introduce stresses preventing even shrinkage in all directions. To counteract shrinkage, you should slice your model scaled, e.g. scale to 102% to counteract a 2% shrinkage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the belts check out right and you are printing in PLA, you may want to check the steps per mm value. This calibration is only useful when you print a test cube at e.g. 200%, the inaccuracies also increase with the same ratio. If not, than it is a positioning error, caused by some play in the machine. Please check the bearings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-06-09T06:59:03.783" LastActivityDate="2018-06-09T06:59:03.783" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6130" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6135" CreationDate="2018-06-09T10:47:22.053" Score="5" ViewCount="694" Body="&lt;p&gt;I changed the filament (PLA) in my Wanhao Duplicator I3+. I ended the first try to print when I saw that the 'lines' were too thin. I re-sliced with a higher temperature (195°C instead of 190°C). Now the print started without a problem but after about 25% no more filament came out of the extruder. What can be the reason and how can I resolve it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The filament is from Vertex, grey. The object that I use to test is a 20&amp;nbsp;mm hollow cube from Thingiverse that I have used for the previous filament too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am not sure that this is a clogging problem since the print starts with no problems. It just stopped after 25%. When I started another print I was able to finish by increasing the temperature. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6359" LastEditorUserId="6359" LastEditDate="2018-06-09T13:56:04.400" LastActivityDate="2018-06-09T13:56:04.400" Title="Extrusion stops during print" Tags="|filament|pla|wanhao|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6131" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5594" CreationDate="2018-06-09T12:14:53.460" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have the same printer you do.  I recall that the ooze shield is printed in alternating layers; first from E0 and then the next layer from E1.  But on a given layer, I don't think that there is a guarantee that the ooze shield will be printed in the filament about to be laid down for the part of the layer.  (But I might be wrong on this.)  But when it comes time to print the ooze shield, what will happen if the filament has already drizzled out during the print of the last layer?  The first part of that ooze shield won't get printed properly and might end up causing a print failure.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a separate issue, I found that an ooze shield is only helpful if the overall XY diameter of the print is not too great.  This is because it only helps when the print head crosses the perimeter.  If the print head spends a fair amount of time inside the perimeter, then the idle head can still continue to ooze out unwanted filament.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So for many of my prints, I started using the priming tower, but skipping the ooze shield.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9158" LastActivityDate="2018-06-09T12:14:53.460" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6132" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6130" CreationDate="2018-06-09T12:19:51.803" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;My slicer (Cura-lulzbot) has a setting for initial printing temp, and then printing temp after the first few layers.  Is it possible that your temp is initially OK, but then drops too low?  Does your printer have a readout that shows the current temp?  Is the temp still OK when it stops?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It sounds like you are printing a sample cube, so I assume not too large.  Could you simulate this by just directly command your printer to extrude 500 mm of filament, or longer?  Then see if it clogs.  That would tell you if it was a physical problem with your printer instead of some change specified by the G-code for a sliced print.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9158" LastActivityDate="2018-06-09T12:19:51.803" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6134" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-06-09T13:48:38.267" Score="3" ViewCount="43" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm wanting to know how a LENS printer moves to create 3D prints.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10895" LastActivityDate="2018-06-09T14:11:43.023" Title="On a LENS printer, does the head move, or is it table that moves when printing?" Tags="|z-axis|metal-printing|printing-powder|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6135" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6130" CreationDate="2018-06-09T13:52:48.193" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I redid the print in order to reply to some questions posed in the answer of @kdtop. The print started but the output was not consistent and sometimes stopped. The temperature is 195°C and sometimes 'drop' to 194°C. First I pushed the new real so that the extruder did not need to pull so much. When this did not solve the problem I changed the temperature to 200°C. Now the output became consistent and my print finished. It was not as good as the one that I did with my previous filament. The top was not as neatly closed. Only the last 2 layers covered more or less for 100% the surface (perhaps 200°C is too high for this?).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For me the solution is to higher the temperature to 200°C (or perhaps 205°C).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6359" LastActivityDate="2018-06-09T13:52:48.193" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6136" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6134" CreationDate="2018-06-09T14:03:48.820" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Whilst this is not a definitive answer, if you watch the video on their website, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.optomec.com/3d-printed-metals/lens-printers/low-cost-metal-3d-printer/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;LENS 450 Systems&lt;/a&gt;, it is the bed that moves in the X and Y axes - the head remains static. The bed also &lt;em&gt;appears&lt;/em&gt; to move in the Z axis, after each layer (as there is noticeable bed wobble). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, the head is on an armature so it could be that which moves - it is not entirely clear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.optomec.com/3d-printed-metals/lens-printers/low-cost-metal-3d-printer/?wvideo=0vb8ql6iv9&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.optomec.com/3d-printed-metals/lens-printers/low-cost-metal-3d-printer/?wvideo=0vb8ql6iv9&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;LENS 450 System for 3D Printed Metals&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that the MR-7 system appears to be similar to the 450, with its &quot;3 Axis CNC Control System&quot;. However, the 850-R differs, inasmuch that it has: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;5 Axis CNC Control System&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;XYZ gantry + tilt-rotate table&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;which are not mentioned in the specifications of the 450 and MR-7, so the 850-R could well differ from the video.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4762" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-06-09T14:11:43.023" LastActivityDate="2018-06-09T14:11:43.023" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6137" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-06-09T16:30:27.027" Score="4" ViewCount="1319" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am the owner of a pretty Anycubic Mega I3 and it was very cool to own it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, now I have several problems when printing with it. It clicks all along, at high or low temperature, at 5&amp;nbsp;mm above the plate, and the result is very disgusting. It is the same with the basic black PLA, or with other PLA from ICE-Filaments but I can't do anything. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I use Cura and I've reset it several times, using the defaults options or not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are two examples of some prints (normal cube): &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachments/380420138920574986/455045425636835338/Snapchat-1209640225.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;example 1&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rSqA2.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;First example of poorly printed cube&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rSqA2.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;First example of poorly printed cube&quot; title=&quot;First example of poorly printed cube&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and &lt;a href=&quot;https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachments/380420138920574986/455045425636835340/Snapchat-27434386.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Example 2&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hb1dJ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Second example of poorly printed cube&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hb1dJ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Second example of poorly printed cube&quot; title=&quot;Second example of poorly printed cube&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11026" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-06-09T20:51:24.313" LastActivityDate="2018-06-10T14:38:53.393" Title="Can't print anything, clicking and low extrusion" Tags="|software|hardware|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6138" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6137" CreationDate="2018-06-09T17:41:48.497" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had a similar issue after installing an E3D V6 using a Bowden extruder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PLA needs a heat break that has a PTFE liner, since with all metal heat breaks, it's probable that the filament will reach glass transition temperature in the heat break and stop flowing properly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, I had filament that was 1.86&amp;nbsp;mm instead of 1.75&amp;nbsp;mm, which caused it to bind inside the PTFE tube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Before correcting these issues, I was able to temporarily fix the issue by doing a cold pull to unclog the extruder, and was able to print around 10&amp;nbsp;cm in height of a 20x20x20&amp;nbsp;mm cube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To do a cold pull, heat your extruder between 80-100°C, and then pull out the filament. If successful, the tip of the filament will be shaped as the inside of the nozzle. If needed, heat the extruder to 200°C and manually push the filament to fill up the nozzle and heat brake, then let it cool down to the above temps and do the pull.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10524" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-06-09T21:36:01.313" LastActivityDate="2018-06-09T21:36:01.313" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6140" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-06-09T22:00:55.430" Score="8" ViewCount="11675" Body="&lt;p&gt;On a 3D XYZ printer extruder, I found two terms I have no idea about:   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;retract speed&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;retract length&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are these and why/how should they be set?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11033" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-07-18T12:49:54.020" LastActivityDate="2018-07-18T12:53:40.377" Title="What is retract speed &amp; length?" Tags="|print-quality|retraction|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6141" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6140" CreationDate="2018-06-09T22:54:30.233" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Retraction is the reversal of the direction of the filament and is generally used when moving from one non-contiguous point of the print to another, in order to prevent &lt;em&gt;stringing&lt;/em&gt; and &lt;em&gt;oozing&lt;/em&gt; of the filament. If retraction is not employed then the filament still coming out of the nozzle, after the last point was printed (and paused), will stretch, thus creating a fine string, as the print head is moved to the next position where printing is to recommence.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hpa5g.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Stringing&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hpa5g.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Stringing&quot; title=&quot;Stringing&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;strong&gt;retraction speed&lt;/strong&gt; is the speed at which the filament is retracted, or pulled back (by the extruder stepper), and the &lt;strong&gt;retraction length&lt;/strong&gt; is the amount that is pulled back.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These settings are dealt with in the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.hornbach.de/data/shop/D04/001/780/491/279/983/6541035_Doc_02_DE_20171205104244.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;XYZware User manual&lt;/a&gt;, on page 43, section &lt;strong&gt;11.5 Retraction&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;11.5 Retraction&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NCuh2.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Retraction dialog&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NCuh2.png&quot; alt=&quot;Retraction dialog&quot; title=&quot;Retraction dialog&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;11.5.1 Retract Length&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In printing object, before large movement of print module, print&#xA;filament will be drawn back, such that slight negative  pressure&#xA;occurs  in  print  nozzle,  preventing  material  from  adhering  to&#xA;the  object  while  moving, improving surface quality of print object&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;11.5.2 Activate Threshold&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Such  setting  will  allow  users  to  set  up  retraction  mechanism&#xA;activation  style.  For  setup  mode,  users  usually specify the&#xA;minimal print module movement distance for retraction mechanism&#xA;activation&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;11.5.3 Lifting height for extruder withdrawal&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After retraction, the print module will be elevated slightly with such&#xA;setup value. Such action prevents material from adhering to the&#xA;object, and makes a more orderly final print stop point. However, it&#xA;should be noted that excessively large elevation will extend print&#xA;preparation time for the next print layer, and portions of angles may&#xA;results cooling and difficult to bond conditions between layers&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;11.5.4 Add Extra Filament after Travel &amp;lt; Retraction&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Material  compensation  may  be  used  to  improve  upon  holes  or&#xA;poor  extrusion  due  to  excessive  extruder withdrawal&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Retraction speed isn't dealt with in the above section though. In section 3.3, of the &lt;a href=&quot;http://wiki.xyzprinting.com/wordpress/xyzware-pro-user-manual/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;XYZware Pro. User Manual&lt;/a&gt;, it is mentioned:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Retract Speed&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The speed for pulling filament backwards. Refer to the function introduction in the next chapter for more about retraction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Hint&lt;/strong&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cooperation of retraction speed and other print speeds will affect feeding stability directly in printing. A print speed slightly faster than the retraction speed would prevent material squeeze from interrupt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, the manual doesn't then go on to give any setting. However, the default settings should suffice, unless you are experiencing issues with stringing and/or oozing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A further explanation can be found here, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.flashforge.com/support/stringing-or-oozing/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Stringing and oozing&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Reason 2: Retraction Length&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The retraction function includes two setting options. One is&#xA;retraction length and the other is retraction speed. The retraction&#xA;length determines how much melted filament will be pulled out of the&#xA;nozzle. In general, the more plastic that is retracted from the&#xA;nozzle, the less likely the nozzle is to ooze while moving. As for the&#xA;issue, the default setting in the expert mode is enough for you to&#xA;solve the problem. If you encounter stringing with your print job, you&#xA;can increase the retraction length slightly to test again to see if&#xA;the performance improves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Reason 3: Retraction Speed&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The retraction speed determines how fast the filament is retracted&#xA;from the nozzle. If the speed is too low, it will make no difference&#xA;to your print job., the melted filament will still drop down through&#xA;the nozzle and leave on the model. On the contrary, if the speed is&#xA;too fast, the filament will be back to the nozzle and cannot be&#xA;extruded out in the next movement of printing. As for the retraction&#xA;speed setting, users can reserve the default setting which is perfect&#xA;for almost every models.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Testing your settings&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As 0scar has reminded me, there are a good number of retraction test prints available (cubes, towers, bridges), which will help you check that your settings are adequate. These prints provide models that have a lot of &lt;em&gt;print breaks&lt;/em&gt; (points between which printing is paused and then resumed), which can cause stringing to be exhibited. See &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.reprap.org/wiki/Calibration#Oozebane&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;RepRap Wiki - Oozebane&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Oozebane&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Objective: stop material oozing out of the nozzle during&#xA;'non-printing' moves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many extruders will emit (ooze) plastic even when the extruder motor&#xA;is not turning. To overcome this your slicing software needs to&#xA;'retract' the print medium during head movement when not printing. The&#xA;retraction creates negative pressure within the hot end heating&#xA;chamber which effectively sucks the print medium back up through the&#xA;nozzle, stopping it from oozing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Calibration Object: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thingiverse.com/download:17661&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;oozebane-test.stl&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The calibration object prints two towers about 30 mm apart. The head&#xA;must move between each of the towers at each layer. If your printer is&#xA;not set correctly then you will see many fine filaments (or strings)&#xA;between the two towers. You can eliminate these filaments by&#xA;eliminating ooze.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Calibration Object 2 (Variable sized towers for testing ooze): &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thingiverse.com/download:20868&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;variable_size_ooze_test_nobase.stl&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a simple model to help tune reversal parameters for a stepper&#xA;extruder (using much less filament before actually testing the&#xA;ooziness). It consists of a number of towers with different&#xA;thicknesses, with different spacing between each tower. A well-tuned&#xA;bot should be able to produce even the smallest towers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A simple google search, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.google.co.th/search?q=Thingiverse%20retraction&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;thingiverse retraction&lt;/a&gt;, shows up a lot of examples, such as:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1815784&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;10 Minute Mini Calibration Test for Oozing/Retraction at Different Distances&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1159886&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;4 Cube Retraction Calibration&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2157858&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Retraction Tower Test&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2867033&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;String retraction tower test&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://cdn.thingiverse.com/renders/15/e9/df/74/a4/979ffe4e9f797626812ab0721b2c80df_preview_featured.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Retraction tower&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://cdn.thingiverse.com/renders/15/e9/df/74/a4/979ffe4e9f797626812ab0721b2c80df_preview_featured.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Retraction tower&quot; title=&quot;Retraction tower&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check out the following (suspiciously similar) tags&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;, for even more examples:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/tag:retraction_test&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;retraction_test&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/tag:retraction-test&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;retraction-test&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/tag:retraction&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;retraction&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Additional note for Bowden setups&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/8884/trish&quot;&gt;Trish&lt;/a&gt; notes in &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6140/what-is-retract-speed-what-is-retract-length/6141?noredirect=1#comment9754_6141&quot;&gt;the comments&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to my experience&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; it is generally a good idea to add 2 to 4 mm of retraction to a bowden setup in comparison to a direct drive when dialing in the perfect retraction. This is, because some distance is &amp;quot;eaten&amp;quot; by the flex of the Bowden tube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; It seems as if Thingiverse could benefit from tag synonyms&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;https://toms3d.org/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Thomas Sanladerer's&lt;/a&gt; advice during a stream&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4762" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:29:41.667" LastActivityDate="2018-07-18T12:53:40.377" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6142" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6137" CreationDate="2018-06-10T14:38:53.393" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &quot;click of death&quot; is the feed bolt skipping as it chews a bite out of your filament. Your filament feed is encountering resistance and the feed bolt is slipping. I've seen that sad spaghetti so many times. After unclogging your head with a cold pull and cutting off the mangled filament, you'll have some things to try:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had a Lulzbot with the older Bowden extruder and learned to prevent spaghetti air prints by: 1) replacing PTFE liners periodically, and 2) increasing temperature for certain colors. My black PLA required +5C over my natural PLA, which was a total surprise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now I have a new Lultzbot with the metal extruder and life is good. All metal hot-ends are so much nicer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10938" LastActivityDate="2018-06-10T14:38:53.393" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6147" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-06-11T01:52:48.410" Score="6" ViewCount="1003" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just built my new Anet A6 and not seeing a power off button. &#xA;How do I power it down safely?&#xA;Am I missing something?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11046" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2019-08-31T08:22:30.973" LastActivityDate="2019-08-31T08:22:30.973" Title="Anet A6 printer power on/off" Tags="|anet-a6|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6148" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6147" CreationDate="2018-06-11T04:54:29.473" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Anet A6 does not have a power switch. To power the printer you need to put the power cord into the socket. To &quot;safely power off&quot; the printer you need to pull the plug from the socket. You can even pull the plug during usage when it appears to go wrong (e.g. when the nozzle is digging into the bed). The printer runs a continuous running program/instructions that can be interrupted at any time, it does not have to be shut down according to a certain procedure like computer operating systems that use a proper file system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can insert a power button in the power cord yourself for ease of use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Furthermore, it is pretty common to replace the power cord for a computer power cord with a &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/IEC_60320#C13/C14_coupler&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;C13&lt;/a&gt; plug and connect a &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/IEC_60320#C13/C14_coupler&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;C14&lt;/a&gt; socket with power button (and an optional fuse) to the power supply unit:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JXz0E.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JXz0E.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;C14 socket&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please note that it is very dangerous to mess with the mains voltage, so please be sure what you do or get help from someone that does. Use proper tools to crimp wire correctors to the leads.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are not able to do the rewiring of cables to put in a switch, plug the printer into a power strip with an integrated switch button.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zg1Hl.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zg1Hl.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-06-11T14:35:13.113" LastActivityDate="2018-06-11T14:35:13.113" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6149" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-06-11T18:35:20.300" Score="7" ViewCount="10076" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just one quick question about the filament. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I leave the filament in the extruder for a prolonged period of time while the printer is off?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11046" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-06-12T06:51:05.520" LastActivityDate="2018-07-30T15:38:26.617" Title="How long can you leave filament in the extruder" Tags="|filament|storage|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6150" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6149" CreationDate="2018-06-11T18:48:47.033" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most filaments you can leave in the extruder indefinitely without any ill effects.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are some filaments that need to be stored away from moisture, particularly Nylon, because they absorb moisture from the air and don't print well if they contain a lot of absorbed moisture. However, this isn't an inherent issue with having the filaments in the extruder (if you had some setup that protected the filament from moisture while in the extruder, that would be fine as well - but in most cases it is more practical to store such filament in an airtight box). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most commodity filaments (ABS/PLA/PETG) don't suffer from this as much (PLA supposedly also absorbs moisture but I haven't noticed this to be a problem, perhaps it depends on the conditions of the room in which your printer is kept) so they're fine to leave in the extruder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastActivityDate="2018-06-11T18:48:47.033" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6151" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-06-11T20:33:48.250" Score="5" ViewCount="1247" Body="&lt;p&gt;I cannot get my extruder to work on my Creality Ender-4 printer. I have heated the nozzle but the extruder does not move.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tested the motor and cable on another system and they work just fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could it be the board or what could it be?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11055" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2018-07-08T11:57:21.680" LastActivityDate="2023-08-11T08:41:55.973" Title="Creality Ender 4 extruder problem" Tags="|extruder|creality-ender-4|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6152" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-06-11T21:11:53.317" Score="5" ViewCount="710" Body="&lt;p&gt;So as the title said my heated bed stopped heating mid print. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm pretty confident the bed itself is not the problem as I've ran continuity tests from the wires and a resistance check (which showed a total resistance of about 1.5 ohms, which is where it should be). I've done voltage checks across the input terminals which showed a successful output of 12 V. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally I did a voltage test across the output terminal at D8 where the heated bed should be outputted to. The result came up with nearly 0 V. I then noticed that the LED that usually lights up for D8 was turned off. The weird thing is, I unplugged the wires from D8 and this time the LED lit up like it was supposed to. Due to this, I believe the problem to be with the MOSFET attached to D8. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My proposed solution would be to move the heated bed terminal to D9 instead of D8. I wish to this because despite the firmware set up for a fan, I do not have a fan attached to D9. This leaves this terminal open and with a potentially unharmed MOSFET. Despite this I have found no information on how to go about accomplishing this. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What do you guys think? Is that even a good idea or should the component (or board be replaced)? Any help would be greatly appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11056" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-06-11T22:09:55.833" LastActivityDate="2018-06-12T09:51:34.333" Title="Heated Bed not heating on original Prusa i3. Using a Ramps 1.4 EFB" Tags="|prusa-i3|heated-bed|ramps-1.4|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6153" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-06-11T21:23:23.087" Score="5" ViewCount="398" Body="&lt;p&gt;Im planning on building an enclosure for my CR-10S and am debating whether to use MDF walls lined with an insulation foam that reduces noise and keeps the heat in or going with double pane glass walls.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My main concern is not necessarily keeping the enclosure hot as it is for noise reduction. Obviously the wood with insulation will give better sounds dampening, but I am wondering if anyone has tried both or at least heard a printer before and after with both and if the glass alone had a significant effect on the sounds reduction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11057" LastActivityDate="2018-06-26T16:25:24.900" Title="Printer Enclosure Material Selection" Tags="|enclosure|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6154" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6153" CreationDate="2018-06-11T22:25:02.360" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;To reduce the noise, you could replace the metal linear bearings for plastic ones. This reduces the produced noise considerably from experience. Also, put the printer on damping rubber feet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Enclosing the printer should be done with care, completely boxing the printer up could lead to increased temperatures of your board electronics, steppers and cold end cooling. Make sure to vent some air. How you box up does not matter, although double glass window panes does seem a bit of an expensive solution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2018-06-11T22:25:02.360" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6155" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6151" CreationDate="2018-06-11T23:20:50.590" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Apparently your 3D printer runs &lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?415,789291&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Marlin firmware&lt;/a&gt;. Marlin firmware default code has build in protection against extrusion below a certain temperature (usually 170°C) as defined in the &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/blob/1.1.x/Marlin/Configuration.h&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;printer configuration&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;// *** IT IS HIGHLY RECOMMENDED TO LEAVE THIS OPTION ENABLED! ***&#xA;#define PREVENT_COLD_EXTRUSION&#xA;#define EXTRUDE_MINTEMP 170 &#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are you sure that it heats up above this temperature? Please check the connections of the thermistor and the heater cartridge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Marlin firmware code supports disabling the cold extrusion safety measure by setting:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;M302 S0    ; Allow extrusion at any temperature&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(save this line in a file with extension &lt;code&gt;gcode&lt;/code&gt; and load and run it from an SD card or alternatively hook up your computer over USB to the printer and use an application like Pronterface, Repetier-Host, etc. to upload the command to the printer)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If cold extrusion safety is turned off, you should try to extrude (without loading filament) to test if the extruder works.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To revert use the following code:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;M302 S170  ; Allow extrusion above 170&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2018-06-11T23:20:50.590" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6156" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1100" CreationDate="2018-06-12T02:51:00.910" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know the original user has probably found an answer to their question by now, but I'll add my 2 cents for the benefit of others who come across this.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My experience with Hatchbox has been that the walls and top layers were looking good at 200°C, but when I started stress testing the parts to their fail points I noticed that the internals were just a fibrous mess with no structural integrity.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I started increasing the temperature in increments of 10°C and found that at 210°C it improved, and at 220°C there was good layer adhesion.  At 230°C layer adhesion was absolutely beautiful, but it begins to get a little too melty.  I have settled at 220°C for my machine.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keep in mind that everyone's printers are going to be slightly different - hotends, fan setup, even the thermistor could have varied resistance from one machine to another causing incorrect readouts on temps.  That's why you have to tinker and find what works well for you and your machine.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11058" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-06-12T20:31:00.113" LastActivityDate="2018-06-12T20:31:00.113" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6157" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6149" CreationDate="2018-06-12T04:48:47.607" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you &quot;planing&quot; to leave the filament there for months, then it would be a good idea to store it away, but for most filaments it is not a big deal to be stay loaded... provided that the humidity is not high (e.g. a shower or kitchen next to it would be not so good). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My experiences with &quot;moistured&quot; filament is that they get brittle, but only breaks when I don't print something. And it is a pain in the a** to get out the last part of the filament that broke right at the entrance... so store it away is always a good idea, if you are not too lazy ;) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9575" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-07-30T15:38:26.617" LastActivityDate="2018-07-30T15:38:26.617" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6158" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-06-12T06:24:38.387" Score="7" ViewCount="558" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have some nylon that appears to have soaked up some moisture, the prints have the texture of rice bubbles. So I'm wondering what people suggest for drying.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My priorities are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;cheap&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;low energy use&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;safe&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;effective&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know you can put it in the oven for four hours, but that's going to chew up a lot of electricity. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have been leaving the spool in front of a fan heater, since the heater is on anyway, it probably only gets to 40°-50°, but since my kids spend all day sitting in front of the heater I can leave it there for an extended amount of time. Anyone have success with this method?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had considered putting it in my car. I know even on cool days it gets pretty warm in there, but I'm not sure whether that would translate to low humidity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10093" LastActivityDate="2018-06-12T08:33:27.163" Title="What is the best way to dry filament?" Tags="|filament|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6159" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6158" CreationDate="2018-06-12T08:27:32.827" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;If we think about drying as a process, then we need to consider some factors:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;we need to get same humidity level on the spool&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;that will require a good stable temperature and an air rotation (fan)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;then we need to store  spool in a dry area (a bag and silicone sachets will do the work)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As energy consumption by owen could be the case, if we will run it for 4h full steam, then considering that we shall have about 60 degC, will turn down the usage by at least 70%, so we could assume that 2kW heater will be on only 30% of the time (so it will be 2kw*0.3 = 0.6kW, multiply by 4h -&gt; we have 2.4kWh, so that is about 50 cents).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;If you consider the price of wasted filament - then adding 50 cents to the drying process is something that is &lt;em&gt;cheap enough&lt;/em&gt; to save precious nylon.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9730" LastEditorUserId="9730" LastEditDate="2018-06-12T08:33:27.163" LastActivityDate="2018-06-12T08:33:27.163" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6160" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6152" CreationDate="2018-06-12T08:32:45.763" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;you can swap pins in Marlin firmware.&#xA;When you download it from GitHub, there is a file called &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/prusa3d/Prusa-Firmware/blob/MK3/Firmware/pins.h&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;pins.h&lt;/a&gt; (please be aware that this file is an example), and you can play with your setup to skip the broken mosfet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Sometimes, it could be easier and faster to desolder and swap elements directly on the board - that depends on the skill set we have&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9730" LastActivityDate="2018-06-12T08:32:45.763" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6162" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6152" CreationDate="2018-06-12T09:51:34.333" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;First you should check if the bed still works when applying 12V directly. You can then also check the voltage over the 12V output terminals to measure the power supply unit while it is powering the bed. It is unclear whether you measured the voltage of the PSU while it was powering a large load.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is also a good idea to get the external MOSFET board out of the equation (the less components you have, the less you need to troubleshoot).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the post can be concluded that you are using the so-called RAMPS EFB setup, e.g. in &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Marlin firmware&lt;/a&gt; defined by constant &lt;code&gt;IS_RAMPS_EFB&lt;/code&gt; in your firmware printer setup (Extruder on pin 10, fan on pin 9 and bed on pin 8).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the pin configuration file &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/blob/1.1.x/Marlin/pins_RAMPS.h&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;pins_RAMPS.h&lt;/a&gt; you can find the following lines:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#define FAN_PIN        RAMPS_D9_PIN&#xA;#define HEATER_BED_PIN RAMPS_D8_PIN&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To change the pin layout, switch the values of the constants.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2018-06-12T09:51:34.333" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6163" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-06-12T16:12:29.663" Score="3" ViewCount="365" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 3mf file that has 24 parts in it.  I want to extract one of those parts for printing.  I have Solid Works, Magics, and NetFabb.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11064" LastActivityDate="2018-06-19T13:40:31.340" Title="Multipart 3mf file, need to extract one of those parts for printing." Tags="|materialise-magics|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6164" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3234" CreationDate="2018-06-12T18:07:21.493" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could also try printing at a higher temperature.  Slips can happen when the filament is not melting and thus not pushing through the extruder consistently.&#xA;E.g. I had a spool of PLA filament that would slip constantly at 190°C.  I tried 220°C and then it printed smoothly after that. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11065" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-06-12T21:38:38.987" LastActivityDate="2018-06-12T21:38:38.987" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6165" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-06-13T03:14:58.940" Score="6" ViewCount="2724" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I'm working with standard PLA, and I want to print a box that I can stand on without any risk of it breaking, is there any good way to calculate the appropriate print settings?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know that structural strength comes from the infill.  Knowing this, and knowing the dimensions of the box, the weight of my body, the surface area of my shoes, and the material I'm working with, is there any good way to determine the minimum infill percentage I'd want to use in order to safely bear my weight?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10981" LastActivityDate="2018-06-13T16:47:40.820" Title="How to calculate the strength of a printed object?" Tags="|print-strength|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6166" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6165" CreationDate="2018-06-13T09:29:59.910" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Strictly speaking, it is difficult to do calculations on these materials, but not impossible (I've heard about a few commercial analysis tools that do that). The FDM process (Fused Deposition Modeling) creates a product based of fused slices of material causing an anisotropic material (this means that the properties of the material are different in different dimensions). Basically, your product will be quite strong and similar in the X and Y directions, but fragile in the Z direction (layering direction). You can imagine that every layer may be a seed for cracks to grow when you're pulling at the part. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When applying a compression load on a product like in your example, the walls need to be strong enough to hold the pressure (not all of the load as, based on the type of infill, the infill also can/should take part of the load!) and need to be of sufficiently high percentage, not only to take part of the load, but also support the walls to prevent buckling. I remember that stress calculations for buckling are difficult and require FEA (Finite Element Analysis) for more complex objects other than bars or beams. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think it is difficult to determine or calculate the infill percentage based on the compression load beforehand as you do not know the exact material properties and the buckling behavior. You do know that a 100% infill will give you enough strength and support, you could try to print at a lower infill, e.g. 75%, and test if that works for you. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-06-13T09:36:18.483" LastActivityDate="2018-06-13T09:36:18.483" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6167" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-06-13T09:32:15.183" Score="6" ViewCount="193" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been trying to make a paste extruder and I came across &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.stoneflower3d.com/store/ceramic-3d-printing-kit/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;StoneFlower3D&lt;/a&gt;. In their site, they mentioned about a feature called &lt;strong&gt;Infinite Printing&lt;/strong&gt;. Please see page number 25 of this &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.stoneflower3d.com/app/download/15944611296/SFCeramic3DPrintingKITManual.pdf?t=1525513312&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;document&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They're only using &lt;code&gt;Step&lt;/code&gt;, &lt;code&gt;Dir&lt;/code&gt;, &lt;code&gt;Enable&lt;/code&gt; and &lt;code&gt;GND&lt;/code&gt; from main controller and there's not a serial connection with the controller.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyone have idea about how they're doing it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10670" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-06-13T15:40:03.213" LastActivityDate="2018-06-16T16:41:41.843" Title="StoneFlower3D - how to pause a print?" Tags="|extruder|marlin|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6168" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6167" CreationDate="2018-06-13T09:43:34.810" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The extruder is connected to 3d printer mainboard as a &lt;code&gt;stepper driver&lt;/code&gt;.&#xA;That said it is not using standard stepper motor output, but it is fed directly from CPU digital pins.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please see OP reference manual. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The extruder has theability to self-feed (load filament) - so that is the reason of kit/printer switches - see pic 1.&#xA;Then pausing a print to feed the clay tank need to be executed from printer (pause print) and then operated locally in the &lt;code&gt;kit&lt;/code&gt; mode.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NoSNn.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NoSNn.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;if get your comments well - pic below gives an overview how to connect it to rams - see manual for details&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CgQiw.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CgQiw.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9730" LastEditorUserId="9730" LastEditDate="2018-06-14T08:47:46.900" LastActivityDate="2018-06-14T08:47:46.900" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6169" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6165" CreationDate="2018-06-13T09:54:25.927" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;A fast way to do this is by using SolidWorks. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can draw the box in it and run a simulation test with the max load expected. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a link on how to make dynamic load simulations work in SolidWorks, &lt;a href=&quot;https://forum.solidworks.com/thread/72005&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;How to apply dynamic load in solidworks simulation ?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The catch in the process is that SolidWorks takes cubes and most objects as complete solids, i.e. 100% infill in 3D printer terms. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You would have to actually design your infill pattern into the cube so as to get the best and most accurate result. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9769" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-06-13T15:33:31.983" LastActivityDate="2018-06-13T15:33:31.983" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6170" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6165" CreationDate="2018-06-13T13:19:02.667" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would suggest doing some calibration runs - granted this'll use up a lot of time and filament.  But an infill of even 30 to 40%, plus a reasonably thick set of walls and top/bottom layers, should have almost the same strength as a 100% infill.   Look at the girders &amp;amp; beams on road bridges, for example.  As Oscar wrote, modelling with FEA tools is unreliable, more so because every extrusion printer is a little different.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Try printing a test box, say only 10 by 10 cm, same height, and see if you can stand on that, before printing the full-size item. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2191" LastEditorUserId="2191" LastEditDate="2018-06-13T16:47:40.820" LastActivityDate="2018-06-13T16:47:40.820" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6171" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5798" CreationDate="2018-06-13T16:25:04.403" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to this video, &lt;a href=&quot;https://ru-clip.com/video/eOlP-YQOn5g/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Upgrade TronXY X1 Power Supply with PC Power Supply&lt;/a&gt;, which actually shows the power brick, the TronXY power brick is 12&amp;nbsp;V 5&amp;nbsp;A. The best screenshot of the brick is shown below:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dLW2k.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;TronXY power brick power rating&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dLW2k.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;TronXY power brick power rating&quot; title=&quot;TronXY power brick power rating&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The narrator of the video (as do &lt;a href=&quot;https://makerware.thingiverse.com/groups/tronxy-x1/forums/general/topic:19203&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;other sources&lt;/a&gt;) states that it runs extremely hot on long print cycles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An example replacement power supply, on AliExpress, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Tronxy-3D-printer-accessoires-power-supply-240W-AC110-220V-DC-12V-20A-for-3D-print-DIY/32723053329.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Tronxy 3D printer accessoires power supply 240W AC110/220V DC 12V 20A for 3D print DIY kit part&lt;/a&gt;, is rated at 20&amp;nbsp;A.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, in theory any 12&amp;nbsp;V 10-15+&amp;nbsp;A rated laptop power brick should suffice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, that was not your question. As a &lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/wiki/RAMPS_1.4#Power_Supply&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;em&gt;standard&lt;/em&gt; RAMPS board also runs at 12&amp;nbsp;V&lt;/a&gt;, then yes, you can use the TronXY power brick with a standard RAMPS board.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Nevertheless, would you want to? It would seem advisable to get a higher rated power brick&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;. That way, you can run the printer harder and longer without the risk of the power supply dying (or worse, catching fire) and if, at a later stage, you want to add a heated bed, then you'll be able to use the same supply brick.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; I think the biggest laptop 12&amp;nbsp;V supply I've seen was 15&amp;nbsp;A on eBay. Earler Xbox 360 bricks go up to 16.5&amp;nbsp;A. Both of these still get rather warm, due to their (admittedly convenient) black plastic casing.  It might be better to get a standard, well ventilated, aluminium cased 20-35&amp;nbsp;A LED power supply, as in the AliExpress link above.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4762" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-06-13T16:39:54.707" LastActivityDate="2018-06-13T16:39:54.707" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6172" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6196" CreationDate="2018-06-13T16:29:46.320" Score="6" ViewCount="6890" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Monoprice Maker Select v2. It is the kind where the moving plate (heat bed) provides the Y-axis and the moving extruder provides the X-axis. It has a fairly rigid sheet metal frame. In addition, I added steel rods has Z-braces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I see some pretty obvious ghosting. This happens for an inch or so right after every sharp turn. Clearly, vibration is to be blamed. I found two simple techniques that improves the situation:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;soft floor mats under the feet (allowing the machine to move freely)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;bolt the machine to the desk (preventing the machine from moving)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Surprisingly, these two opposites provided exact same level of improvement for ghosting. My question is: &lt;em&gt;which approach is better&lt;/em&gt;? Moreover, to further improvement, should I use...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;(extreme version of 1) hanging the printer from the ceiling using bungee cords (maximize the freedom to move); or...&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;(extreme version of 2) bolt the printer to garage floor (0 freedom to move) ?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user11082" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2019-02-26T14:30:21.383" LastActivityDate="2022-05-13T07:12:06.690" Title="Fix ghosting problem (damping versus bolting printer to a desk)" Tags="|ghosting|knowledgebase|" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6173" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6172" CreationDate="2018-06-13T16:56:02.537" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Personally, I would select the 2nd option.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The forces and vibrations inside printer will propagate over every single part connected. Having that in mind, making rigid external frame is just a part of the solution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please consider some extra points:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;filament spool on the top bar adds vibration to the frame (get a rubber pad to separate hook from the frame - but I will remove it from the printer)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;steper motors are mechanically noisy as well - get a stepper damper (as a piece of thin rubber between the motor and bracket)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;moving speed and acceleration also adds a pressure to the construction, so high acceleration and braking need to be reduced (when you put hand on the frame you will fill all those movements (close your eyes))&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;stepper drivers also have an impact on the quality side (circled model skin)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;you also could add an extra tensioners from top of the frame to the base.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fixing it to the floor will be a benefit and considering points above will also improve printing quality.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2958034&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;an alternative lateral frame&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oLUwq.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oLUwq.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9730" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2022-05-13T07:12:06.690" LastActivityDate="2022-05-13T07:12:06.690" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6174" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-06-13T19:19:04.670" Score="5" ViewCount="1247" Body="&lt;p&gt;Simple question: how do you reinsulate the MakerBot Smart Extruders? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Backstory:&#xA;I work at the library. We've recently replaced the MakerBot (extruder connection issues followed by software incompatibility) with a Prusa.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a new hire, I'm obsessed with the 3D printers. I'm trying to make it my mission to get the MakerBot working again, just so we can have two printers running.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It takes quite the request chain to get materials in and I had some plumbing tape on hand, so I tried to wrap it with that, per &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/1247/efficient-and-easy-way-to-thermally-insulate-the-heat-block-of-the-hotend&quot;&gt;this thread&lt;/a&gt;. It's not going too well because of the housing around the Smart Extruder, which I cannot figure out to remove (easily and/or without voiding the warranty and taking it completely apart). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I imagine even with the cotton + Kapton tape, you'd need better access to the hotend than the housing allows.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any help is appreciated!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11086" LastActivityDate="2018-07-09T03:37:47.687" Title="Insulate hotend on Makerbot Smart Extruder" Tags="|extruder|hotend|makerbot|maintenance|heat-management|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6175" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6174" CreationDate="2018-06-13T20:26:18.523" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Strictly speaking, you do not require the insulation to be there. It is supposed to keep some of the heat contained in the core to allow more heat to be available for the filament to melt (basically higher print speeds and less chance of burning your fingers :) ). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I go to the Makerbot website and look at the video &lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.makerbot.com/3d-printers/smart-extruder/?wvideo=8adgspxkmv&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.makerbot.com/3d-printers/smart-extruder/?wvideo=8adgspxkmv&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Smart Extruder+ - 3D Printer Extruder - 3D Printer PLA Extruder&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;at 1:37, you'll see that the hot end is wrapped in cotton and Kapton tape. Like the stuff that is cheap and easy to buy:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Xu5QN.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Xu5QN.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and that the casing cover is removable, so you should be able to open it to insert new cotton. Why worry about voiding warranty? You can gain a working printer for a few bucks or bite the bullet and buy a new Makerbot Smart Extruder. I guess if you had warranty you could already have it replaced by now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2018-06-13T20:26:18.523" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6176" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6172" CreationDate="2018-06-14T10:21:41.697" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;To fix ghosting it doesn't realy matter if the printer is bolted down or flying thru the air. The main point is to get rid of any movement in the printer construction itself. &#xA;What I mean: If you bolt down your printer, but all parts wiggle as hell, then you will have ghosting. And if you have a printer with no wiggeling parts, then the printer could theoretical even been moved while printing. &#xA;So reduce vibration sources or undock them with dumpers and made the frame stiff as possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;sure a bold down would provide a reduce in flexibility in the printer, but if that would help also an internal reinforcement will do the job. (Like a extra frame)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For my personal 2 cents: I suggest to use a soft floormat to stop vibrations transfering to the table, because it would be annoying a.f. to stay in the same room if you have a vibrating device that uses the table top as a drum.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9575" LastActivityDate="2018-06-14T10:21:41.697" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6177" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-06-14T22:04:54.027" Score="5" ViewCount="776" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am having an issue with the transition  from the first layer to the second. It seems that the first layer isn’t staying put on the hot bed and the extruder is dragging it around creating a ball of filament. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is this a &quot;height issue&quot; or a &quot;hotbed temperature issue&quot;? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also I ordered a new glass hotbed top. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Can I remove the tape that was on the hotbed when it came in the package?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11046" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-06-16T06:40:04.397" LastActivityDate="2018-06-16T06:40:04.397" Title="Adhesion problem (heat bed or extruder issue)" Tags="|extruder|heated-bed|bed-leveling|layer-height|masking-tape|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6178" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6177" CreationDate="2018-06-14T22:30:31.693" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the first layer is not sticking well to the bed it can be caused by several issues. Usually the height of the first layer plays a significant role as does the flatness of the bed. Temperature can definitely  also play a role; you want the temperature to be close or at the glass transition temperature of the plastic filament when it is in a sort of fluid state. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally I hated the original tape that came with the bed or blue tape I bought separately. Also the surface finish is nowhere close to printing directly onto the Aluminium bed or on a glass plate. For adhesion, a PVA based spray (e.g. hairspray, or more expensive special print spray like 3DLAC or even a glue stick), should be used as it becomes very sticky at elevated temperatures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The tape can be removed, but should be replaced with something that grips onto the filament, see previous paragraph. I removed the tape after day one I got build my kit and started printing directly onto the Aluminium bed using the sticky spray.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To answer your questions, the following checklist determines the order in which you should solve your issue:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;First check the nozzle position relative to the bed; this should ideally be the thickness of a single plain A4 paper.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Make sure the bed is level; what is meant that the bed is relatively level with respect to the nozzle, not water bubble level with respect to the Earth (you'd be amazed to find how many people do that).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use the correct bed temperature; it is usually found on the tag of the spool of filament. Alternatively, look it up on the internet, or increase it at first with about 5 degrees Celsius at a time.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You could over-extrude a little for the first layer by increasing the extrusion multiplier for the first layer, or add some extra temperature to the extruder (increase with 5 degrees Celsius).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Printing brims or adding mouse ears or discs integrated in your design may also work to create more grip.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And yes you should remove the masking tape before you put the glass on as it would only act as an insulator.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-06-15T00:00:48.657" LastActivityDate="2018-06-15T00:00:48.657" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6179" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-06-15T00:11:13.393" Score="5" ViewCount="4074" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have got a problem that after upgrading my printer to an aluminum frame my extruder went from around 400 steps per mm at 16 micro steps (which did match the manufacturer's recommendation perfectly) to a bit over 1000 steps per mm at 16 micro steps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a problem for me, since the limited amount of steps per second lower my maximum retraction speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I tried since the rebuild:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Replace and adjust the current of the stepper driver - no change, even with another type of driver on different micro steps, of course with other values, but also about 2.5 times too high;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Connecting another motor with another cable - the other motor with nothing attached to it drove the same angle as my extruder stepper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could it be that the ATmega2560 on my MKS gen 1.4 board got damaged? Or did I change something in the firmware, which does have this effect?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am using Marlin 1.8.5 and a E3D Titan 1:3 geared extruder and I am using the same setup as before! E3D claims to have 437 steps per mm on a 200 steps/revolution Nema 17 stepper and 16 micro steps. This value was working perfectly fine before.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Update:&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With an Arduino Nano I measured the amount of steps my board sends at 418.5 steps/mm (programmed in EEPROM and in firmware) on a specific amount of extrusion length&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;G92 E0 -&amp;gt; G1 F100 E30&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and I got&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;5220 steps for 30mm extrusion (reproducible). &#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It should be&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;418.5 steps/mm*30mm = 12555 steps.&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Where,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;(12555/5220) * 418.5 steps/mm = 1007 steps/mm &#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;to have the effect of 418.5 steps/mm&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;...which is, oddly, the exact number that I got by marking filament, extruding, measuring and calculating.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11099" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:29:41.667" LastActivityDate="2019-12-24T15:10:57.337" Title="Steps per mm of extruder are incorrect after rebuilding" Tags="|ramps-1.4|stepper-driver|extruder-driver|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6180" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5445" CreationDate="2018-06-15T01:50:22.263" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Selecting the body in the browser will select the entire body. Clicking on the body in the viewer will only get you faces or edges.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A long click (click and hold) on the model will give you options on what to select. You can choose a face or body under &quot;Depth&quot; or choose a body or feature under &quot;Parents.&quot; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11100" LastActivityDate="2018-06-15T01:50:22.263" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6181" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6179" CreationDate="2018-06-15T11:09:52.350" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;After a rebuild, and certainly after changing to another extruder (e.g. replacing it by a geared extruder like you supposedly did as taken from the comments above before the edit, which now clearly is not the case) or setup e.g. other stepper drivers, you should always calibrate the extruder. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To calibrate you e.g. disconnect the hot end nozzle and command to extrude 100 mm. Be sure to make marks and measure the extruded distance. Divide the latter value by 100 to divide this result by the steps per mm value in the configuration file. So, if you measured 102 mm and commanded 100 for 400 steps, the new would be 400/(102/100) = 392. There is a lot to find on this matter on the internet. All can be done with G-codes that can be entered through a terminal connected over the USB port. E.g. applications as Pronterface, Repetier-Host, OctoPrint, etc. all have a terminal interface to the printer if connected over USB.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could find more detailed instructions e.g. &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.matterhackers.com/articles/how-to-calibrate-your-extruder&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;, or this &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.no/url?sa=t&amp;amp;source=web&amp;amp;rct=j&amp;amp;url=%23&amp;amp;ved=0ahUKEwjsuYaexNXbAhWxx6YKHXtTADIQwqsBCEYwBQ&amp;amp;usg=AOvVaw0VTJzWxrN8ZFOD4xbU2nov&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;video&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-06-15T14:38:13.110" LastActivityDate="2018-06-15T14:38:13.110" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6182" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6179" CreationDate="2018-06-15T19:14:21.933" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ok, thanks everyone for at least taking time to read or thinking about this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Problem is an absolute mess and there are two possible reasons:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;-&gt; the octoprint eeprom editor is broken&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;-&gt; the ATMega2560's eeprom is broken. as far as i know companies buy used atmegas to cheapen the price and the &gt;100k writes on my chip has been reached&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I will try to figure out the exact problem, if i find time in the next days.&#xA;My current setup is just deactivate eeprom and i'm good to go. Even wiping eeprom with a small arduino sketch will get the error to return.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now i will be able to sleep again :D&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11099" LastEditorUserId="11099" LastEditDate="2018-06-15T19:20:27.057" LastActivityDate="2018-06-15T19:20:27.057" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6183" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6265" CreationDate="2018-06-16T14:01:06.227" Score="7" ViewCount="1875" Body="&lt;p&gt;Has anyone run into problems printing with Proto-pasta's HTPLA on a Prusa MK3 (or any printer really)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I picked up some samples from PP, specifically their glitter filament and a couple of the premium HTPLA filaments. I printed one small piece with the glitter filament the first night I got the package, but I haven't been able to get any of the filaments to print since.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://vimeo.com/275396962&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Here's a video I shot outlining the issue's I'm running into.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem seems to be that the filaments won't extrude from the nozzle and this problem applies to all of the samples I got. If I unload the HTPLA and print with any of the other filaments I have been printing with (various inland filaments) they all print out fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I thought maybe I had a clogged nozzle so I did a couple of cold pulls with a different filament. The pulls came out clean each time. I tried loading the HTPLA back in and while the filament extrudes fine during the MK3's loading process it still doesn't extrude when trying to run an actual print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've read through &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.proto-pasta.com/blogs/how-to/avoid-clogs-with-pla-composites-and-all-metal-hotends&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Proto-pastas page on avoiding clogs with composite PLAs&lt;/a&gt; and adjusted my slicer settings accordingly but still can't seem to get a print out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm printing with:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The Prusa i3 MK3&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Slic3r Prusa Edition&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tried Extruder temp as low as 195c and as high as 220c&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Speed of 50mm/s with first layer of 20 or 30mm/s&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tried at .15 and .2 mm layer heights&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Stardust Glitter Flake HTPLA - 1.75mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cloverleaf Metallic Green HTPLA - 1.75mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Winter Blue Glitter Flake HTPLA - 1.75mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas??&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;UPDATE&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Over the weekend I talked a bit with proto-pasta and did some tests on my own. Proto-pasta suggested disabling the filament sensor on my printer since the additives in some exotic filaments can falsely trigger the sensor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I went to try this, but my sensor was already off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried switching back to a known good filament and found that I couldn't get &lt;em&gt;anything&lt;/em&gt; to extrude anymore. After researching a bit online I suspected that there may be an issue with a clogged nozzle, so I did a couple of cold pulls and then tried one of my known good filaments again. This time I was able to extrude and print out a full test without issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After that I switched to one of the HTPLAs and it started printing. I thought all was good, but during the course of the test print the nozzle clogged again and stoped extruding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I'm close, but not quite there. I'm wondering if cold pulling again to unclog the nozzle and then walking through some of the settings changes outlined in proto-pasta's page on avoiding clogs will help. If I spent the entire time walking through that page with an &lt;em&gt;already clogged&lt;/em&gt; nozzle it would make sense that nothing worked. That page is more a list of preventative measures rather than reactive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm going to dig in more tonight. I'll post back with an update.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Reply from Proto-pasta&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I got a reply from Proto-pasta for some questions I asked regarding the nozzle dimensions I should use with their filament. The 0.4 nozzle borehole is not too small for the glitter, though the larger diameter will help it sparkle more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you for following up. Yes cold pulls that leave behind material can cause all sorts of trouble. It happens to me on the Lulzbot quite often, probably my biggest gripe about that machine.  Anyways, on to your questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Is this accurate? Should I print the glitter filament with a nozzle with a larger borehole diameter?&#xA;A larger bore is not needed, the glitter flake is quite small and flows through a 0.4 nozzle fine. However, using a 0.4 nozzle and printing layer heights of 0.1 or 0.05 with glitter can cause a shift in apparent color as it forces the glitter to lay down flat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If so, what diameter should I use? 0.6?&#xA;While not needed, a 0.6 nozzle does allow for a better sparkle or shine from the glitter filament.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Are there other proto-pasta filaments that require a larger borehole?&#xA;Generally any metal or wood filled filament benefits from a large nozzle size. For example, wood filaments most people suggest a 0.5 for better flow but they do work at 0.4. For us, we like to use 0.6 on the metal fills as it allows for a good flow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I have a spool of matte fiber htpla that I got with my last order. Can I print this with my nozzle?&#xA;The matte fiber was designed as a non-abasive alternative to the Carbon Fiber filament. It does not require a larger nozzle, a 0.4 will work just fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11104" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:29:41.667" LastActivityDate="2019-08-31T08:39:34.193" Title="Issues with Proto-pasta filament extruding on prusa mk3" Tags="|filament|prusa-i3|filled-pla|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6184" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5724" CreationDate="2018-06-16T14:35:02.093" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;To correct x-y axis alignment to 90 degrees:  Loosen the nuts on the two threaded rods at one end and in the middle. Lower the Z-axis to its lowest level. Place a square block of wood or metal so that it rests on the table and is snug against the X-axis rods.  Slide the table so that either its rear or front edge is under the edge of the block.  There you can clearly see any misalignment by comparing the edge of the block and the edge of the table. Now the 'fun' part: rack the entire assembly, pulling the diagonal corners to square the table and block.  You may have to tape the assembly down to keep it in place while you spin the threaded rod nuts back into place....gently,then carefully snug the nuts while watching the table and block to insure they stay put!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11105" LastActivityDate="2018-06-16T14:35:02.093" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6186" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-06-17T09:21:19.503" Score="3" ViewCount="1143" Body="&lt;p&gt;My Zortrax M200 has a skipping extruder motor, I’ve checked the seating of all connections and 3 different (electronic ribbon) cables and still can’t fix the issue. The gear is clean and have tried fresh filament. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Does anyone have any possible thoughts on why this happens?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The extruded motor will move in the desired direction and then skip back. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Loading the filament is fine. Tried new nozzles, blockages checked, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11110" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-06-19T13:11:44.250" LastActivityDate="2018-06-19T13:15:44.867" Title="Zortrax M200 skipping extruder" Tags="|extruder|print-quality|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6187" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6189" CreationDate="2018-06-17T11:49:21.653" Score="4" ViewCount="2890" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am building an enclosure for my 3D printer (Anycubic i3 Mega) and I'm wondering about heat and ventilation for my machine. My enclosure is is build from five 50x50x50&amp;nbsp;cm Plexiglass frames glued together. Currently I'm using only PLA for printing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Does my enclosure need ventilation so my 3D printer would not overheat? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If yes, what type of ventilation? &#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is only drilling holes enough? or &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do I need to add some ventilator? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If I would print with ABS in the future would it change the answer?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11111" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-06-20T09:30:18.420" LastActivityDate="2018-06-20T09:30:18.420" Title="Enclosure Ventilation" Tags="|pla|abs|ventilation|enclosure|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6188" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-06-17T12:24:57.687" Score="1" ViewCount="3626" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a question about Slic3r software.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would like to subtract two parts. For example, I have an STL model, when I right click on the part, I can select &lt;strong&gt;Settings...&lt;/strong&gt;, and in the &lt;strong&gt;Settings&lt;/strong&gt; window, I can select modifier and I can select slab.with selecting proper thickness. Now we have two parts where one of them is inside of another. My problem is subtracting those two parts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I subtract this part from another?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11024" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2019-03-02T21:26:14.817" LastActivityDate="2019-03-02T21:47:46.593" Title="Subtract of two STL files in Slic3r software" Tags="|slic3r|stl|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6189" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6187" CreationDate="2018-06-17T13:52:35.287" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;When printing PLA you do not require an enclosure! PLA does not shrink as much as e.g. ABS. When printing PLA you should definitely ventilate your casing. I guess your steppers are also located in the enclosure, so you should be careful of not overheating the enclosure. Not only the steppers, but also think of the cold end cooling, too much heat in the enclosure means that the cold end cannot cool enough to prevent the filament to melt prematurely; this can lead to clogs. Also note that the printer electronics board may become too hot too (too hot stepper drivers will cause steppers to miss steps).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;I once tried a towel over a Ultimaker 3 Extended to print a difficult filament to keep some heat in the enclosure; I encountered the above&#xA;  problems when I was young(er) and inexperienced :) We learn by trial and error some times!&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, ABS, requires control over the temperature during printing. Draft or uneven temperatures may lead to problems related to layer separation or heat bed separation. Many of the high-end box printers have &lt;a href=&quot;https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/49779-installing-the-advanced-3d-printing-kit-for-the-ultimaker-3&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;doors available to enclose the front&lt;/a&gt;, this results in an enclosure with an open top (sometimes even for &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.makerpoint.nl/en/ultimaker-cover-ultimaker-3-extended.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;the top there are covers available&lt;/a&gt;). The heat of the bed then heats up the enclosure. A constant temperature of 45°C should not be too high to cause problems. When boxing it up completely, you could use a temperature sensor to monitor the enclosure temperature and schedule a fan to ventilate when it gets too hot. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-06-17T14:03:05.393" LastActivityDate="2018-06-17T14:03:05.393" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6190" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6186" CreationDate="2018-06-18T05:13:27.393" Score="0" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Check the pins on the motor. Are they bent? If yes - straighten them out with a screw driver. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;This could be a stepper driver problem. If it is then bad luck. Zortrax hard solders their stepper drivers onto their control board (this sucks and is a pure monetization related move by them). &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This results in you having to get a whole new set of connector cables and or new control boards every time something goes wrong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ask for a control board replacement with new connector cables, if your machine is still under warranty it should be free of charge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Switch to different or cheaper machines like Wanhaos or Ultimakers if you want the same ease of use and cheap part replacement. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9769" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-06-19T13:15:44.867" LastActivityDate="2018-06-19T13:15:44.867" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6192" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-06-18T10:20:42.823" Score="1" ViewCount="74" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am a new-bee to 3-D printing. I want to learn about it as much as I can. So, where to start? like a total beginner. Any suggestions are welcomed!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11121" LastActivityDate="2018-06-18T10:20:42.823" Title="3-D printing initial stage for a beginner" Tags="|diy-3d-printer|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="5" ClosedDate="2018-06-18T15:01:41.980" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6194" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4846" CreationDate="2018-06-18T11:22:31.363" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would suggest  material from IGUS . &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.igus.com/wpck/17736/3Dprinting&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.igus.com/wpck/17736/3Dprinting&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They have a range of  materials that are astonishingly  easy to print with on desktop 3D printers also they are probably the world leaders in high load, self lubricating polymer bearings .&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I despise printing with PEI (Any type of ULTEM) and PEEK filaments as the upgrades required are a pain to install and keep running for any serious 3D printing related activity .&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9769" LastActivityDate="2018-06-18T11:22:31.363" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6195" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6172" CreationDate="2018-06-18T12:20:03.957" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ghosting is very well described in the topic &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/5389/what-causes-ghosting&quot;&gt;What causes “ghosting”?&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Ghosting is an artefact in the print due to the vibrations in the&#xA;  printer that are induced by rapid changes of direction&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To add to that answer and get on topic of your question and your possible solutions I'd like to say that &lt;strong&gt;neither&lt;/strong&gt; of the solutions you provide is correct. What do we know? We know that ghosting depends on the mass of the printer head being accelerated and decelerated. This causes overshoots that are damped out by the construction causing the ripples or ringing effects that die out after a few mm of printing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the head is considered to have a mass M1 and the printer mass M2 (where M2 is larger than M1), the following simplified figure can be drawn:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Dxo4K.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Dxo4K.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that the head is without friction (which is not the actual case), when the head is subjected to a force, or suddenly a force acting on mass M1 disappears, the mass M1 wants to travel further; the spring and the damper then come into play causing a dynamic displacement of x1. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you assume the printer to be bolted to the ground, M2 becomes the mass of the earth (M2 &gt;&gt;&gt; M1) and solely the x1 displacement is taken into account. However, if you hang it freely (M2 &gt; M1) or use rubber damping between the printer and you get a complex vibrating system where mass M1 influences the displacement of mass M2. E.g. M2 is now connected to the earth (or not if freely suspended) with its own damper and spring (or free). If x2 and x1 are in phase the effect may be even stronger than if x2 and x1 are out of phase. This all depends on the values of the spring and damper values and the involved mass weights. Although clamping down seems the best way to go forward, putting the printer on rubber matting or feet may be more comfortable as it reduces the vibrations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This demonstrates that the displacement of M1 will always exist until you either fix the mass of the head (M1) or the force acting on mass M1 (lowering speed and jerk).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-06-18T20:23:01.517" LastActivityDate="2018-06-18T20:23:01.517" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6196" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6172" CreationDate="2018-06-18T14:52:15.027" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ghosting is caused by differential movement between the bed and the head when the head undergoes acceleration. The forces add energy to a resonance in that differential vibration mode.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By changing how you mount the base, you will change the mode and probably change the frequency.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With the soft mounting, the bed can move more easily.  It will tend to follow the head acceleration better.  The whole system will still ring (you can't get rid of the momentum change), but you can cause the energy to go somewhere else and not excite that mode.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With the base bolted down tight, the base gets stiffer, increasing resonant frequencies.  You also may be making the base more resistant against racking or twisting motions.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is completely credible that both interventions reduce the problem.  Of the two, I would prefer any intervention that increases the stiffness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you know your movement speed (perhaps from your configuration file) and can measure the linear frequency of the ringing, you can determine the resonant frequency that is being excited.  Depending on the frequency, you may be able to excite that frequency with an audio generator and transducer (maybe even just a speaker), such as with one of these: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-tt25-8-puck-tactile-transducer-mini-bass-shaker-8-ohm--300-386&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Dayton Audio Transducers&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With the system shaking at the right frequency, you can use your finger to find portions of the frame which are vibrating strongly, or maybe even your phone camera to make a high-speed video of the movement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2082" LastActivityDate="2018-06-18T14:52:15.027" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6197" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6188" CreationDate="2018-06-18T18:48:23.240" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Given my limited familiarity with all the CAD tools that exist, I would fall back to something that I know does binary operations on volumes -- openScad.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One can create two objects, one from each of the two STL files, and subtract one from the other.  One can also compute intersections, unions, and other operations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are probably other programs that also do this, but openScad allows for doing in programmatically, so that once you have it right, you can update the objects without needing to redo the finicky part of the operations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;slic3r may do this, but I haven't seen such features in my multi-year use of slic3r for slicing.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When in doubt, IMO it is better to script something.  It is virtually never that I do something only once, especially in 3D printing where rapid prototype leads to rapid change and improvement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2082" LastEditorUserId="2082" LastEditDate="2018-06-19T14:52:17.827" LastActivityDate="2018-06-19T14:52:17.827" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6198" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6186" CreationDate="2018-06-18T18:56:30.777" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Every time I've had an extruder &quot;skip&quot;, it was actually because some condition was causing excessive back-pressure.  Either the hot end isn't hot enough, the nozzle is too close to the bed, or something has clogged the nozzle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If there is a &quot;skipping&quot; noise, then this is almost certainly the problem.  When a stepper can not advance, the magnetic field will continue to &quot;step&quot;.  After the rotor is behind the steps by 180 degrees of field phase (which might be only a fraction of a degree os stepper motor shaft rotation), the rotor will snap back to re-align with the magnetic field.  The sudden movement of the rotor and the release of compression on the filament often makes a loud clicking or thumping noise.  If you can see the gear, it will jump backward and then rotate slowly forward before jumping backward again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To see if it is the drivers, try extruding with no filament, or if you can, try moving filament through the extruder.  If it doesn't move at all, or doesn't move under light drag, it may be the driver, the wiring, or perhaps the motor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2082" LastActivityDate="2018-06-18T18:56:30.777" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6199" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6163" CreationDate="2018-06-19T04:20:48.913" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If your 3D file has separate objects and vertices and are just merged together then do the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Import into Magics;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Select part (in the part list menu).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Right click (in the part list menu) and select Shell to parts;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;(Be very careful here) Select the area you want to isolate with the translate tool. If you don't know how to do this just left click hold and drag the mouse to select an area inside a box;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Use translate tool to move it a little ahead from the original grouped object (just drag on any axis);&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Right click (in the part list menu) and select merge part.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should work out fine. Tell me if you get stuck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This can also be done on Netfabb. Not on SolidWorks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9769" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-06-19T13:40:31.340" LastActivityDate="2018-06-19T13:40:31.340" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6200" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4350" CreationDate="2018-06-19T08:59:32.603" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Please note that Skynet3D is &lt;strong&gt;OBSOLETE&lt;/strong&gt;, this was a &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fork_(software_development)&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;fork&lt;/a&gt; from &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Marlin Firmware&lt;/a&gt; that was created to support the &quot;odd&quot; displays (due to alternative pin layout) Anet use on their printers and has been completely integrated in Marlin.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that homing is used to hit the end stops to determine the positioning of the head. There is no such thing as homing in the center of the bed (apart from the Z-axis). How would the head know where it is just after switching the printer on?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When using the constant:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#define Z_SAFE_HOMING&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;the printer is instructed to move the head to (in this case to the middle of the bed):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#define Z_SAFE_HOMING_X_POINT (X_BED_SIZE / 2)    // X point for Z homing when homing all axis (G28).&#xA;#define Z_SAFE_HOMING_Y_POINT (Y_BED_SIZE / 2)    // Y point for Z homing when homing all axis (G28).&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;after sending the &lt;code&gt;G28&lt;/code&gt; homing command.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically it wil home X and Y, then move to the instructed position (in the example the middle of the bed) and then home Z.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-06-19T13:55:36.130" LastActivityDate="2018-06-19T13:55:36.130" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6201" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6202" CreationDate="2018-06-19T11:53:31.143" Score="4" ViewCount="103" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am building a &lt;strong&gt;AlfaMendel 3D printer&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;em&gt;(&lt;strong&gt;edited&lt;/strong&gt; : The original question named it to be Prusa Mendel I2)&lt;/em&gt;. I printed the extruder drive &lt;strong&gt;using PLA material&lt;/strong&gt; from the STL available in the package but I'm not able to insert the hobbed drive as well as the filament in it. The dimensions of hobbed drive is correct. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is the problem related to shrinking of print material while printing the extruder drive or something else.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have included few pics of the extruder drive and hobbed drive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZIhLs.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Filament hole in extruder drive&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZIhLs.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Filament hole in extruder drive&quot; title=&quot;Filament hole in extruder drive&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YbaYk.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Extruder drive&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YbaYk.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Extruder drive&quot; title=&quot;Extruder drive&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kFbGF.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Close up of extruder drive&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kFbGF.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Close up of extruder drive&quot; title=&quot;Close up of extruder drive&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VxIBH.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Hobbed Drive&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VxIBH.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Hobbed Drive&quot; title=&quot;Hobbed Drive&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This image shows the maximum possible insertion of hobbed drive in the extruder drive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HmgsF.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Trying to insert the hobbed drive in the extruder drive&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HmgsF.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Trying to insert the hobbed drive in the extruder drive&quot; title=&quot;Trying to insert the hobbed drive in the extruder drive&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11135" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-06-21T10:28:34.323" LastActivityDate="2018-06-21T10:28:34.323" Title="Not able to insert hobbed drive and filament in the extruder drive" Tags="|prusa-i3|reprap|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6202" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6201" CreationDate="2018-06-19T14:25:40.820" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your parts are not in the Prusa Mendel i2 as found &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.reprap.org/wiki/Prusa_Mendel_(iteration_2)&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/josefprusa/PrusaMendel&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also note, quote:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Parts included in Github repository have the wrong dimensions for the&#xA;  nut traps! Download the correct version from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:8252&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;[Thingiverse Greg's&#xA;  Hinged Accesible Extruder]&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are you sure you have the correct parts for the original Prusa Mendel i2? Maybe you have a different version? The original extruder mount uses an M8 hobbed bolt, not an MK8 hobbed extruder gear. The first is 8 mm in diameter, the latter is 9 mm in diameter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit:&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;After you updated your post to hint to the correct printer, it appears that my answer still holds. You did use the incorrect extruder gear. The 9 mm gear doesn't fit in the extruder part as it requires an 8 mm diameter extruder gear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It might be difficult to find a 8 mm hobbed gear with a 3 mm shaft diameter, they are usually 5 mm (as in the stepper shaft diameter) or 8 mm (as in the diameter of 8 mm bolts that are frequently used for extruder setups). You could redesign the part (load STL in a 3D CAD program and make the changes). By the way, PLA should not shrink so much. As can be seen in the photo's, it looks like your current printer does not print very accurately, that may also contribute.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-06-20T18:42:33.740" LastActivityDate="2018-06-20T18:42:33.740" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6203" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6188" CreationDate="2018-06-19T17:53:29.367" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am assuming your trying to perforate, hollow or cut your design in a specific shape that is the same as the inner 3D object or vice versa? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do this with 3Ds max its just really easy there for such operations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please load into Autodesk 3Ds max and perform Boolean.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the link on how to use the Boolean tool, &lt;a href=&quot;https://knowledge.autodesk.com/support/3ds-max/learn-explore/caas/CloudHelp/cloudhelp/2017/ENU/3DSMax/files/GUID-3DBEB7C2-43CC-4B78-9463-5DD448FD921C-htm.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Boolean Compound Object&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are other software like magics where this can be done  but as you seem to be trying this for the first time. I will suggest only 3Ds max.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9769" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-06-20T01:23:33.647" LastActivityDate="2018-06-20T01:23:33.647" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6204" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6210" CreationDate="2018-06-20T00:03:11.560" Score="4" ViewCount="4006" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have just assembled the Creality3D Ender-4 kit a couple of days ago.&#xA;I completed some rewiring and everything seems to be wired correctly, I'm able to auto-home successfully, but this is the problem I'm having:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried printing a &lt;a href=&quot;https://makerware.thingiverse.com/thing:1278865&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;calibration cube&lt;/a&gt;. &#xA;The first problem I noticed is that the printing is starting on one corner instead of the center as specified on the Printer Settings in CURA (check settings below).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second problem is that I'm getting significant distortion. The movement of the printer seems to be fine, no jerks of weird sounds. I tried all I know but I honestly don't know how to proceed with this. I have a couple of hours of experience in 3D Printing so I'm completely lost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the result I got (Model printed with Raft for adhesion):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qXkCz.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Model printed with Raft for adhesion&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qXkCz.png&quot; alt=&quot;Model printed with Raft for adhesion&quot; title=&quot;Model printed with Raft for adhesion&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These are my CURA settings:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Printer&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CaqvA.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;CURA settings - Printer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CaqvA.png&quot; alt=&quot;CURA settings - Printer&quot; title=&quot;CURA settings - Printer&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Extruder&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SfRst.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;CURA settings - Extruder&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SfRst.png&quot; alt=&quot;CURA settings - Extruder&quot; title=&quot;CURA settings - Extruder&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11124" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2018-07-08T11:55:05.360" LastActivityDate="2018-07-08T14:38:49.893" Title="How to calibrate Ender-4" Tags="|calibration|creality-ender-4|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6205" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5027" CreationDate="2018-06-20T10:14:39.257" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It can really depend on where you are in the world. A few years ago, I was unable to obtain standard V-slot (&amp;amp; T-nut) 2020 extrusion, at a reasonable price, and so I ended up using an extrusion from a local supplier instead, and managed to obtain 6&amp;nbsp;m of extrusion for only $15!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My aluminium extrusion has this profile, which has V-Slot style grooves. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Vzce3.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;2020 Aluminium Extrusion BKK#2&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Vzce3.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;2020 Aluminium Extrusion BKK#2&quot; title=&quot;2020 Aluminium Extrusion BKK#2&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, it uses simple, and &lt;em&gt;cheap&lt;/em&gt;, M5 nuts, rather than T-nuts, which are much more expensive (comparatively)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please see &lt;a href=&quot;https://engineering.stackexchange.com/questions/13471/will-standard-m5-t-slot-nuts-fit-these-different-2020-aluminium-extrusions&quot;&gt;Will standard M5 T-slot nuts fit these different 2020 aluminium extrusions?&lt;/a&gt;, for more information.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also use 1515, depending on the size of the printer... if you have a larger printer design then you can always double up and use two adjacent lengths of 1515 to effectively have 3015 (or 2040 - if using two pieces of 2020). Basically use whatever is available and cheap, it isn't necessary to pay a lot of money, just to have the perfect extrusion profile. Remember that you are designing/building the printer yourself, so you will have some leeway. Other sizes that may be available to use are 2525, 2040, 3030, 3060, etc.. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, if you are using 3D printed parts for the frame (such as the end or corner pieces), then you may be restricted in what type of extrusion that you can use, by the printed parts themselves and what type of extrusion they will fit. However, if you are only using aluminium parts for the frame (including aluminium corner brackets/braces) then you &lt;em&gt;should be&lt;/em&gt; OK.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4762" LastActivityDate="2018-06-20T10:14:39.257" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6206" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6207" CreationDate="2018-06-20T18:27:14.750" Score="3" ViewCount="455" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm about to build myself a 3D-printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After a long search for a brain for this one I came across the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.geeetech.com/wiki/images/4/45/GT2560_wiring.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;GT2560&lt;/a&gt; from Geeetech, because it leaves a solid impression on me.&#xA;The manufacturer himself has a quite &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.geeetech.com/wiki/index.php/GT2560&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;extensive wiki page&lt;/a&gt; for this board. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My idea now was to use an ATX power supply. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The PSU is a &lt;em&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.bequiet.com/en/powersupply/675&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;be quiet! BN257&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/em&gt;. On 12&amp;nbsp;V (combined) it can deliver 324&amp;nbsp;W. On 12V1 there is 20&amp;nbsp;A, on 12V2 16&amp;nbsp;A.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would that be enough or would you rather use a 24&amp;nbsp;V power supply?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since I have read some reports about the Anet A8 and its danger of overloading, I am a bit uncertain, even if the GT2560 looks a lot better than the A8.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are the connections to which the heating bed and the extruder are connected sufficiently large to withstand 10&amp;nbsp;A and 15&amp;nbsp;A respectively, or should I solder the cables directly to the board from the very first?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to the information I received from Dr. Search Engine, MOSFETs of type STB55NF06 are used. According to the data sheet, these can withstand loads up to 60&amp;nbsp;V/55&amp;nbsp;A. I don't necessarily need to replace them with external ones, do I?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11146" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-06-21T10:24:26.030" LastActivityDate="2018-06-21T11:59:11.807" Title="Geeetech GT2560: Electronic safety and power source" Tags="|printer-building|electronics|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6207" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6206" CreationDate="2018-06-20T19:08:06.607" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Whether 350 Watt is enough depends on the amount of Ampere can be generated over the 12 V lines. Computer power supplies add up the power of all the voltages! A nameless or cheap 350 Watt PSU may not deliver enough power (in the sense that they may never reach the given power), you should check that out. The high-end PSU's are usually well fabricated and can usually deliver more power (but should not be taken for granted!).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a typical (214x214 mm) heatbed is about 12 V/1.5 Ω = 8 Amperes (about 100 Watt),&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a typical hotend is about 40 Watt,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;steppers and board could draw another 5 Amperes (about 60 Watt)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This totals to about 200 Watt, which your PSU should be able to generate without a problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Those green connectors plug in and out of the board don't they, usually with those small pins, transporting up to 10 Amperes is not recommended, you should look up the ratings of those connectors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-06-21T11:59:11.807" LastActivityDate="2018-06-21T11:59:11.807" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6208" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-06-21T06:21:39.647" Score="3" ViewCount="841" Body="&lt;p&gt;Using a 24&amp;nbsp;V power supply I have two NEMA 17 stepper motors each driven by a DQ542MA stepper motor driver. I have the current settings on the driver set for a RMS of 1.69 and a pulse/rev of 400. When I run the motors they run extremely well but become extremely hot. I need help to figure out what would be the proper settings to use in order to stop the overheating.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Attached is a photo of the motor's setting tables: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QiCNw.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Driver with current and REV tables&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QiCNw.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Driver with current and REV tables&quot; title=&quot;Driver with current and REV tables&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9861" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-06-21T08:42:38.377" LastActivityDate="2018-06-21T08:42:38.377" Title="DQ542MA Driver proper settings for NEMA 17 Stepper Motor" Tags="|diy-3d-printer|electronics|stepper|motor|stepper-driver|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6209" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6208" CreationDate="2018-06-21T07:12:13.443" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is completely normal for a stepper motor to get hot. Taking &lt;a href=&quot;https://cdn-shop.adafruit.com/product-files/324/C140-A+datasheet.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this datasheet&lt;/a&gt; for example, specifies a 80 °C temperature &lt;em&gt;rise&lt;/em&gt;. That is, in an room that is 25 °C ambient temperature, the motors would get up to 105 °C.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To prevent the motors from getting as hot you could further reduce the operating current, but likely the temperature they're running at is normal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastActivityDate="2018-06-21T07:12:13.443" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6210" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6204" CreationDate="2018-06-21T17:47:33.193" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;strong&gt;first problem&lt;/strong&gt; is solved by removing  the tick mark at &lt;code&gt;Origin at center&lt;/code&gt;. Most printers have their origin at a corner (not Delta's, their origin is in the top center).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;strong&gt;second problem&lt;/strong&gt; is a little more difficult to solve. Please note that a kit should be loaded with preset values that should be fair enough to print, your picture does not appear to print the calibration cube correctly, so you should try to &lt;strong&gt;eliminate each possibility one at a time&lt;/strong&gt;. As said, your picture is not very clear, but it does not appear to be a cube, it looks more rectangular (also note that a raft is only interesting when printing difficult, read prone to warping, filaments like ABS). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What you could do is print simple squares (no raft, but use a brim or skirt), e.g. 50 x 50 mm (only 1 or 2 walls in width and a few layers high), and measure the printed size. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If these squares do not stick to the heated bed, calibrate the Z height to nozzle distance and re-level the bed or increase the heated bed temperature;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If the X and Y sizes  are different, you should calibrate the steps per mm for the direction that differs (&lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#M92:_Set_axis_steps_per_unit&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;M92&lt;/a&gt; is the G-code to set the steps per mm; &lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#M500:_Store_parameters_in_non-volatile_storage&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;M500&lt;/a&gt; to store the value to memory; these codes can be given over USB using specific programs that interface through a command line interface e.g. Pronterface, Repetier-Host or OctoPrintor alternatively in a &lt;code&gt;.gcode&lt;/code&gt; file and loaded through the printer user interface);&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If extrusion does look weird, measure the filament width at various sections of the filament with a vernier caliper and calibrate the extruder stepper and set the correct amount of steps per mm;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Finally, print the 20 x 20 x 20 mm cube and measure the height and adjust the steps per mm for the Z direction.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-06-22T10:26:57.617" LastActivityDate="2018-06-22T10:26:57.617" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6211" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5674" CreationDate="2018-06-21T21:29:41.240" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is easy enough to test materials.  First, get a UV flashlight or laser, and find some object that the UV light will make glow.  White paper or white cloth will probably work.&#xA;Next, for a material you wish to test, print a &quot;transparent&quot; wall as think as you need.&#xA;Shine the light through the transparent wall.  If the wall glows, it is interacting so heavily with the UV light that it probably won't transmit UV light.  The light will probably be scattered, since &quot;transparent&quot; material is rarely glasslike when printed.  If the test object you found in the first step still glows, the wall is transparent enough.  If it doesn't, try the next material.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are transparent forms of PLA, ABS, PETG, HIPS, and nylon.  Probably other materials, too.  Try them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2082" LastActivityDate="2018-06-21T21:29:41.240" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6212" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5674" CreationDate="2018-06-23T07:19:56.693" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Have you tried printing with Form labs clear resin ? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;( This is assuming you have access to a desktop SLA like the Form2+ or Form 1 )&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The printed part itself gets hardened after exposure to uv light and actually can increase the life time of your mould .&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have been using the Form labs Form 2+ a lot recently for small moulds and casting them with Polyurethane . They work amazing and the precision of the mould is high due to 0.05mm layer resolution that is achievable .&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once hardened the UV light easily passes through it and does not degrade the part at all . &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is the material data sheet &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://formlabs.com/media/upload/Clear-DataSheet.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://formlabs.com/media/upload/Clear-DataSheet.pdf&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can easily get a clear resin print done through a local 3D printing service bureau that you can find using 3D hubs . &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Prices for printing on a formlabs are comparable to FDM 3D printing , it really just depends on your supplier .&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;If the above doesn't cut it then ,&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Use  DSM Somos® WaterClear Ultra 10122 , please check below link and corresponding data sheet for technical specifications .&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.dsm.com/products/somos/en_US/products/offerings-somos-water-clear.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.dsm.com/products/somos/en_US/products/offerings-somos-water-clear.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This can only be printed on a 3Ds systems viper , Envision tech preform series or other industrial 3D printers . &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Again you can head to 3D hubs or call up the closest industrial 3D printing service bureau and ask them for the above material . They should be able to hook you up easily .&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9769" LastEditorUserId="9769" LastEditDate="2018-06-23T07:39:19.427" LastActivityDate="2018-06-23T07:39:19.427" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6214" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6215" CreationDate="2018-06-23T14:41:38.567" Score="4" ViewCount="246" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an old laser engraver that runs from Windows 98SE and DOS-6. Yup, still works fine but a pain as I regularly have to open it up and unplug and re-seat all the ribbon connectors. Fifteen of them and I tire of that fast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am thinking of pulling out all the electronics and installing a TB6600 stepper drivers and Arduino to run G-code. My order of desire is based on price, RAMPS, Smoothie and the AWC708C. I'd actually like to stay away from the AWC as it is closed source and I would be stuck with whatever it has.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With the existing NEMA 17 steppers I can get rapids to 400&amp;nbsp;mm/s. Will a RAMPS system drive this fast enough? It doesn't have to be that fast, but close to and certainly not below about 200&amp;nbsp;mm/sec.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have been searching but cannot find any actual figures achieved. If not then I guess my second option is the smoothie.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11165" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-06-24T10:25:01.833" LastActivityDate="2018-06-24T10:25:01.833" Title="Laser Engraver with Smoothie, RAMPS 1.4 or AWC708C?" Tags="|g-code|ramps-1.4|laser|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6215" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6214" CreationDate="2018-06-23T15:35:10.750" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Marlin supports a stepping frequency of up to 40kHz. For a pretty typical setup with 100 steps/mm, this translates to 400 mm/s - obviously, if you use higher microstepping settings or use finer pitched belts you will get a lower maximum speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastActivityDate="2018-06-23T15:35:10.750" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6217" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6218" CreationDate="2018-06-24T11:40:27.047" Score="3" ViewCount="275" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was reading this research paper titled &lt;em&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://sci-hub.tw/https://ieeexplore.ieee.org/document/7103095/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Sub-modeling Finite Element Analysis of 3D Printed Structures&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/em&gt;. In this, firstly, the author is trying to create a sketch for Engineering analysis using the 3D printing path coordinates and integrating it to a CAD software like Autodesk Inventor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It says,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;By analyzing the corresponding G-code for the desired structure,&#xA;  important information can be extracted, such as the coordinated of the&#xA;  3D printing path, key points, paths of printing and non-printing&#xA;  paths. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;The coordinate of the 3D printing path can then be imported into CAD software to obtain the corresponding sketch and consequently a solid&#xA;  body for each layer. Most of commercial CAD software packages are&#xA;  capable of this task. For this Purpose we have chosen Autodesk&#xA;  Inventor.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Paper is attached here: &lt;a href=&quot;https://sci-hub.tw/https://ieeexplore.ieee.org/document/7103095/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Research Paper in subject&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can anyone help me out with how this can be done?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11168" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-06-25T11:19:51.560" LastActivityDate="2018-06-25T11:19:51.560" Title="Linking the 3D printing path coordinates to CAD for modelling" Tags="|3d-models|3d-design|g-code|fdm|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6218" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6217" CreationDate="2018-06-24T12:15:04.903" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The wording in the paper is quite verbose and somewhat unclear. All it says is they read the G-code file and &lt;em&gt;somehow&lt;/em&gt; turn it into a 3D model.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A g-code file is just a list of linear moves. Here is an example snippet I took from a random file (keep in mind a typical file would consist of thousands of such lines):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;G1 X140.621 Y114.840 E0.0065&#xA;G1 X140.804 Y114.765 E0.0129&#xA;G1 X141.016 Y114.737 E0.0199&#xA;G1 X158.984 Y114.737 E0.6070&#xA;G1 X159.196 Y114.765 E0.6140&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Each move is relative to the previous, so the second line of the code (for example) tells the printer to move to X=140.804 and Y=114.765 from the previous position (X=140.621, Y=114.840) while extruding an amount of material equal to 0.0129-0.0065=0.0064 mm of filament.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It appears that the authors have developed a toolchain to turn a G-code file into a 3D model, translating every extrusion segment into a part of a solid body (from the pictures, it appears that for a given move segment, they create an ellipsoidal extrusion and merge all of these together into a single solid body) - see Figure 9 in the paper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastActivityDate="2018-06-24T12:15:04.903" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6220" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4353" CreationDate="2018-06-24T16:17:23.333" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I also had issues with the first layer sticking to the build plate and I did not want to sand the plate. As most people will mention you need to make sure that your plate is perfectly level and the z height is right (lots of friction on the paper). You also need the correct exposure times for your resin and the first few layers should get 60 seconds of exposure. &lt;strong&gt;PRO TIP to improve bed adhesion:&lt;/strong&gt; apply a thin layer of resin to the build platform before you start to print. I have not any failed prints after I started coating the plate with resin. Also, I don't completely clean the plate between prints, I make sure it is still sticky. I hope this helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11171" LastActivityDate="2018-06-24T16:17:23.333" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6221" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-06-24T18:11:56.130" Score="7" ViewCount="4990" Body="&lt;p&gt;I finished the mount of my Anet A8, tested everything and apparently it was ok. I installed the driver that came with it, &lt;code&gt;CH341SER_MAC&lt;/code&gt;, turned on the printer, connect USB cable, but nothing happened. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In Cura, I tried to add a printer many times and this message always appears&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The printer isn't connected. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In OSX, I discover in System Information, an &lt;strong&gt;USB2.0-Serial&lt;/strong&gt;, that I think can be the printer.  Is it a printer driver problem? Is it the Cura setting? I'm completely lost...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wyfZ6.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;OSX System Information - USB&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wyfZ6.png&quot; alt=&quot;OSX System Information - USB&quot; title=&quot;OSX System Information - USB&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11174" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2018-07-08T14:51:48.983" LastActivityDate="2021-06-21T22:19:26.933" Title="Can't connect Cura to my Anet A8 on OSX 10.11.6" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|anet-a8|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6222" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6221" CreationDate="2018-06-24T20:34:55.257" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a lot of problems with the CH340 chipset drivers to be found on 3D SE and various forums on the internet. To use this cheap CH340 chip that is used by a number of Arduino compatible (clone) boards to provide USB connectivity (a USB bus converter chip that converts USB bus signals to serial interface) you need to install a correct working driver. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For Mac OS X you can try to download a working version for the OS system you are using. You can try to use &lt;a href=&quot;https://blog.sengotta.net/signed-mac-os-driver-for-winchiphead-ch340-serial-bridge/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this driver installer&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/adrianmihalko/ch340g-ch34g-ch34x-mac-os-x-driver&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this driver installer&lt;/a&gt;. Both reported to work with Mac OS.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit&lt;/strong&gt;: If you are using OSX El Capitan, please read &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.kiwi-electronics.nl/blog?journal_blog_post_id=7&amp;amp;lang=en&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt;. To  get the CH340 drivers to work you need to use the tool &lt;strong&gt;csrutil&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Reboot and press CMD+R immediately after hearing the startup sound to boot to Recovery Mode&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Open Terminal&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Execute the following command: &lt;code&gt;csrutil enable --without kext&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Reboot&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More information is found &lt;a href=&quot;https://tzapu.com/making-ch340-ch341-serial-adapters-work-under-el-capitan-os-x/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-07-01T21:21:40.797" LastActivityDate="2018-07-01T21:21:40.797" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6223" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6224" CreationDate="2018-06-24T23:48:25.937" Score="4" ViewCount="72" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have configured slic3r's OctoPrint Upload section with the with hostname (&quot;octopi&quot;) and port (80) of my OctoPrint server.  The Test button indicates a successful connection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But when I use &quot;Send to Printer&quot; I get an HTTP error 302.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I fix this?&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PKSFV.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PKSFV.png&quot; alt=&quot;Error 302&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6851" LastActivityDate="2018-06-28T05:09:33.430" Title="Why does slic3r get an error &quot;302 moved temporarily&quot; when uploading to OctoPrint?" Tags="|slic3r|octoprint|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6224" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6223" CreationDate="2018-06-24T23:48:25.937" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Specific answer: use &quot;octopi.local&quot; rather than &quot;octopi&quot;, since that will properly resolve to the correct Octopi IP Address.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More generally, investigating the network traffic on my network (AT&amp;amp;T Fiber Home) revealed these facts regarding the octopi server:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;With a browser, the octopi can be accessed via either &quot;octopi:80&quot; or &quot;octopi.local:80&quot;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;However, &quot;octopi&quot; actually talks to the network router, which sends a &quot;302&quot; message with the target name &quot;octopi.local&quot;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;So, for the browser it seems either name is correct, but in actuality only &quot;octopi.local&quot; is the correct network name for the octopi system.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And these facts regarding the slic3r configuration:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;slic3r does not process &quot;302&quot; messages, instead treating them as errors.  This is OK, since a properly configured network won't be generating these.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the slic3r connection test is incomplete.  It reports success because it receives an HTTP response, even though the response is a 302 rather than the version information that it is requesting.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So in this particular case, entering &quot;octopi.local&quot; instead of &quot;octopi&quot; corrected the error.  If you receive a 302 error, you will need to research and verify the exact IP address or host name for the target Octopi system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A future version of slic3r should probably report an error on the &quot;test&quot; button if it doesn't (a) get a proper 200 return code and (b) return the proper version information as slic3r is requesting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6851" LastEditorUserId="6851" LastEditDate="2018-06-28T05:09:33.430" LastActivityDate="2018-06-28T05:09:33.430" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6225" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6228" CreationDate="2018-06-25T00:34:15.073" Score="3" ViewCount="902" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to get my printer to auto level its bed, with Marlin firmware using the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Printer: Kossel Linear plus (Delta 3D printer)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Board: MKS Base V1.5&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Firmware: Marlin customized&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I go into the menu on my LCD, and go to the prepare screen. The screen has the following options:  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Auto home  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Level Bed  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bed leveling: off&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I select the &quot;Auto home&quot; function, the printer uses the stops at the top of the delta to zero itself.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;When I select the &quot;Level bed&quot; function, the printer once again uses the end stops to level itself.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;If I turn the Bed leveling to ON, then the Level Bed function will do the exact same thing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My auto-leveling device is connected to the Z-axis end-stop, and looks like so:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iT48D.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Auto-leveling device connected to the Z-axis end-stop&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iT48D.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Auto-leveling device connected to the Z-axis end-stop&quot; title=&quot;Auto-leveling device connected to the Z-axis end-stop&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have the &lt;code&gt;#define AUTO_BED_LEVELING_LINEAR&lt;/code&gt; line in my config.h, as well as the &lt;code&gt;#define Z_MIN_PROBE_USES_Z_MIN_ENDSTOP_PIN&lt;/code&gt; line. I'm not sure why the printer doesn't actually lower the head to the plate and press the endstop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any clues as to how to make the printer level the bed and not home the XY axis?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="199" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-06-25T12:07:46.800" LastActivityDate="2020-01-17T22:54:03.630" Title="Marlin Firmware Auto Leveling only re-centers the XY-axis (Delta printer)" Tags="|marlin|delta|bed-leveling|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6226" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4460" CreationDate="2018-06-25T02:05:48.750" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Following up on this, the answer is, yes, this works quite well. I printed &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2856128&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this &lt;em&gt;cabaça&lt;/em&gt; model&lt;/a&gt; from Thingiverse using PLA on a Lulzbot Mini and put it on my &lt;em&gt;berimbau&lt;/em&gt; today to test it out. I can't make a direct comparison because the printed resonator is smaller than the gourd one that I own, but the sound is good. I am not certain whether it is actually cheaper (it used a fair amount of PLA because it's probably about a half-inch thick, and it took a few tries to get a good print due to it taking about 9 hours and needing to be monitored for the filament breaking), but it may be more accessible for people who can't ship a gourd in from Brazil. It is definitely more durable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Vupdy.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Vupdym.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Exterior view of *cabaça* on the printer&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt; (click to enlarge)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nJiTn.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nJiTnm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Interior view of *cabaça* - Note some stringing on the inside&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt; (click to enlarge)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8013" LastEditorUserId="8013" LastEditDate="2018-08-24T02:48:56.537" LastActivityDate="2018-08-24T02:48:56.537" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6227" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6221" CreationDate="2018-06-25T03:33:06.227" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;You are using OSX El Capitan. The version of OSX is &lt;strong&gt;particularly&lt;/strong&gt; relevant w.r.t. the CH340 drivers. A driver that works on one OSX version, &lt;strong&gt;will not necessarily work&lt;/strong&gt; with a different version of OSX - even minor version changes of OSX can be affected (as the answers to &lt;a href=&quot;https://arduino.stackexchange.com/questions/19059/problem-with-serial-driver-for-ch340g-board&quot;&gt;Problem with serial driver for CH340G board&lt;/a&gt; demonstrate.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Important Note&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Before installing &lt;em&gt;any&lt;/em&gt; new drivers, it is always worth backing up the original file, just to avoid any unpleasantness later. For example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;sudo mv /System/Library/Extensions/usb.kext /System/Library/Extensions/usb.kext.old&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I seem to remember having the same issue, not with a 3D printer, but just with a cloned Arduino board. I thought that I had written a lengthy blog about it but can't locate it at the moment (I will update this answer when I find it)&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The CH34x ICs are infamous for their poor support on OSX. On Windows they generally fare a little better, and TBH it is probably well worth considering a WinTel option just to save yourself time, frustration and headaches...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Nevertheless, I think that I found this site to be useful, &lt;a href=&quot;https://kig.re/2014/12/31/how-to-use-arduino-nano-mini-pro-with-CH340G-on-mac-osx-yosemite.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;How To Use Cheap Chinese Arduinos That Come With With CH340G / CH341G Serial/USB Chip (Windows &amp;amp; Mac OS-X)&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See also &lt;a href=&quot;https://arduino.stackexchange.com/questions/71/compatibility-between-arduino-and-arduino-clones/13414#13414&quot;&gt;Compatibility between Arduino and Arduino clones&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The most annoying issue, and even then it is quite minor, is that a lot of Chinese clones do not use an ATMega for the USB and instead use a CH340G. These chips, while fine when connecting to a PC running Windows 7, have great difficulties with the drivers on OS X, and end up just not being recognised. It is possible &lt;a href=&quot;https://kig.re/2014/12/31/how-to-use-arduino-nano-mini-pro-with-CH340G-on-mac-osx-yosemite.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;to find a driver for the CH340G&lt;/a&gt;, but when I installed it, it immediately crashed the MacBook, upon plugging in the cloned UNO..!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This advice also proved to be invaluable, from &lt;a href=&quot;https://forum.arduino.cc/index.php?topic=198539.msg2151505#msg2151505&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Post #47 - Arduino in OS X 10.9 Mavericks - Serial Port Issues&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;For any others who haven't been able to solve this one yet: if, like&#xA;  me, you decided to go with the cheaper chinese kick off arduino clone&#xA;  boards and had problems similar to this one, please check the&#xA;  following forum post, as it solved the problem for me:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://forum.arduino.cc/index.php?topic=289518.0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://forum.arduino.cc/index.php?topic=289518.0&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;And another blog site that explains the whole process really simply&#xA;  for noobs like me:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://kiguino.moos.io/2014/12/31/how-to-use-arduino-nano-mini-pro-with-CH340G-on-mac-osx-yosemite.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://kiguino.moos.io/2014/12/31/how-to-use-arduino-nano-mini-pro-with-CH340G-on-mac-osx-yosemite.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Actually the dude has even mirrored the relevant driver that solves&#xA;  the problem without having to find it on an all chinese or all russian&#xA;  website!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, I have just had a problem with an Arduino Nano and my Mac (running Mountain Lion). Using this link, &lt;a href=&quot;https://medium.com/@thuc/connect-arduino-nano-with-mac-osx-f922a46c0a5d&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Connect Arduino Nano with Mac OSX&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;ol&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Download the driver from &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/ledongthuc/example/blob/master/file/CH34x_Install_V1.3.zip&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;url&lt;/a&gt;: link&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Extract and install file &lt;code&gt;CH34x_Install.pkg&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Run the command: &lt;code&gt;sudo nvram boot-args=&quot;kext-dev-mode=1&quot;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Restart the Mac.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Replace the text &lt;code&gt;-P{serial.port}&lt;/code&gt; to &lt;code&gt;&quot;-P{serial.port}&quot;&lt;/code&gt; in 2 files:&#xA;  &lt;code&gt;/Applications/Arduino.app/Contents/Java/hardware/arduino/avr/platform.txt&lt;/code&gt; (1 instance)&#xA;  &lt;code&gt;/Applications/Arduino.app/Contents/Java/hardware/arduino/avr/programmers.txt&lt;/code&gt; (4 instances)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, this did not work for me, but I am running OS X 10.8.5 and the driver is meant for 10.9 (according to the &lt;code&gt;ReadMe.pdf&lt;/code&gt;). My &lt;code&gt;/System/Library/Extensions/usb.kext&lt;/code&gt; file remained unchanged (i.e. the date did not change), so maybe the installer will not work for 10.8.5.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried the second of 0scar's suggestions, but this didn't work for me either (on &lt;strong&gt;Mountain Lion&lt;/strong&gt;): &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/adrianmihalko/ch340g-ch34g-ch34x-mac-os-x-driver&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;adrianmihalko/CH340G CH34G CH34X Mac OS X driver&lt;/a&gt; - The &lt;code&gt;usb.kext&lt;/code&gt; file was never installed in &lt;code&gt;/System/Library/Extensions/&lt;/code&gt; by either the 1.3 or 1.4 versions. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first of 0scar's links, &lt;a href=&quot;https://blog.sengotta.net/signed-mac-os-driver-for-winchiphead-ch340-serial-bridge/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Signed Mac OS Driver for Winchiphead CH340 serial bridge&lt;/a&gt;, interestingly pointed out that, &lt;em&gt;after&lt;/em&gt; installation (and the associated reboot), one may have to copy the &lt;code&gt;usbserial.ktext&lt;/code&gt; file manaually to /System/Library/Extensions/`. So after locating the installed file I did the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;sudo mv /Library/Extensions/usbserial.kext /System/Library/Extensions/usb.kext&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and then rebooted once again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note the change of the filename - this may or may not be necessary. Either way, when I used both &lt;code&gt;usbserial.kext&lt;/code&gt; and &lt;code&gt;usb.kext&lt;/code&gt;, &lt;em&gt;yet again&lt;/em&gt;, this did not help me on Mountain Lion. However, the documents do state that this particular driver is for 10.9 (Mavericks) through to 10.13 (High Sierra).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://arduino.stackexchange.com/questions/53139/uploading-to-a-ch340-nano-board-using-a-mac-with-osx-high-sierra#answer-53611&quot;&gt;The answer&lt;/a&gt; to this question, &lt;a href=&quot;https://arduino.stackexchange.com/questions/53139/uploading-to-a-ch340-nano-board-using-a-mac-with-osx-high-sierra&quot;&gt;Uploading to a CH340 “Nano” board using a Mac with Osx High Sierra&lt;/a&gt;, may help you on &lt;strong&gt;OSX High Sierra&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It might be worth trawling through this list of questions on the Arduino.SE site: &lt;a href=&quot;https://arduino.stackexchange.com/search?q=osx%20nano&quot;&gt;&lt;code&gt;osx nano&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/a&gt;, such as this one &lt;a href=&quot;https://arduino.stackexchange.com/questions/3700/rename-device-name-ch340-usb-to-serial-mac-os/13344&quot;&gt;Rename device name (ch340 usb to serial) Mac OS&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Additional note&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another pitfall is that some drivers may be named &lt;code&gt;CH341xx.xxx&lt;/code&gt;, but they may work for both the CH340 &lt;em&gt;and&lt;/em&gt; the CH340... then again, they may not. The docs don't always say whether they will or not work for both ICs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Footnotes&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; I think it might be this &lt;a href=&quot;https://forum.arduino.cc/index.php?topic=198539.msg2151553#msg2151553&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Re: Arduino in OS X 10.9 Mavericks - Serial Port Issues&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Yes, I have been struggling for a month or so, and finally realised&#xA;  (after reading&#xA;  &lt;a href=&quot;http://forum.arduino.cc/index.php?topic=198539.15#msg1720630&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://forum.arduino.cc/index.php?topic=198539.15#msg1720630&lt;/a&gt;) that&#xA;  other chips were being used, in lieu of the FTDI chip, for example the&#xA;  Prolific 2305. After inspecting the board with a magnifying glass, I&#xA;  saw that I did not have an FTDI chip in my Chinese clones of an Uno&#xA;  and a Mega, but a CH340G instead. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Once I realised that I found the &lt;a href=&quot;http://wch.cn/product/CH340.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://wch.cn/product/CH340.html&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;  site, but the Mac driver doesn't appear to be there. After a bit more&#xA;  googling I found &lt;a href=&quot;http://kiguino.moos.io/2014/12/31/how-to-use-arduino-nano-mini-pro-with-CH340G-on-mac-osx-yosemite.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;the kiguino site&lt;/a&gt;. I downloaded the mirrored driver,&#xA;  rebooted the mac, and when I connected the Uno, my MacBook died and&#xA;  restarted with the grey serious error screen and refused to boot.&#xA;  After disconnecting the Uno, the Mac rebooted as normal, so no lasting&#xA;  damage done, but I am a bit wary of trying to plug the clone in again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Anyway, note that the chip says CH340 on it, but the drivers are&#xA;  CH341. I assume that they are compatible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4762" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-06-30T16:28:01.333" LastActivityDate="2018-06-30T16:28:01.333" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6228" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6225" CreationDate="2018-06-25T12:02:09.983" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You are correct to define the constants &lt;code&gt;AUTO_BED_LEVELING_LINEAR&lt;/code&gt; and &lt;code&gt;Z_MIN_PROBE_USES_Z_MIN_ENDSTOP_PIN&lt;/code&gt;, be sure to define the following also:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#define Z_MAX_POS MANUAL_Z_HOME_POS&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#define MANUAL_Z_HOME_POS 300 // Distance between the nozzle to printbed after homing&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;Note that 300 should be the distance from nozzle to bed after homing.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please look into the configuration files of this &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2784940/files&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Kossel Linear Plus&lt;/a&gt; and compare them with your own configuration files, you may have missed something. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2018-06-25T12:02:09.983" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6229" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1471" CreationDate="2018-06-25T15:22:02.340" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've done the bit where you place the tray and part into the bath. Upon completion of dissolving, I then used a little dawn dish-soap to clean the tray, let it dry. I have access and used DI water for the hand washing (without any scrub or pad, just my hands). The trays worked fine. &#xA;Someone else took over for a bit. I think they were trying to clean with Vinegar, and the trays have all turned white (not sure if that is from this?). So, they aren't being reused.&#xA;I've started being a bit strategic with some print jobs. I'll print in one corner, then use cutters to remove the support without damaging the tray. Then I'll print on that tray in a different corner. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11182" LastActivityDate="2018-06-25T15:22:02.340" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6230" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6231" CreationDate="2018-06-25T16:19:52.930" Score="6" ViewCount="3222" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been given a proprietary 3D file of a real world item from an item manufacturer with the obligations not to hand it out to anyone to produce a print in a low single digit percentge scale of the object. The object model I was handed was given in STL format, and contains even the tiny geometry of the internals. The first set of files given did come with walls that became too thin to be printable in some areas, and I had to ask them to thicken these parts, which they did.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, these files &lt;em&gt;still&lt;/em&gt; contain tons of redundant internal geometry), like bolts that would be M20 or something IRL. The technical design is actually produced in a 1:1 scale - and thus much of the item's complexity is retained in scaling and slicing, because I was provided with neat, nested shells that don't intersect at all. A tiny piece of internal geometry after slicing for illustration without giving much about the actual object (which is under DND).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KP7Ev.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KP7Ev.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;ALL of this internal is superflous, waste of material and additional print time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The STL of this item contains (according to Meshmixer) about 40 shells, most of them representing single bolts, while the really relevant parts are all in the shell 1. The really problematic part is though, that even ditching these 39 superfous shells, the space reserved for them and a lot of internal geometry is left behind when I try to get rid of the internal geometry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Saturday I tried for hours to simplify the model first and then stitch away tons of the internal geometry with blender, but while this did reduce print time greatly for the internal cavities were gone, the simplification did mess up other parts of the model to a degree that wasn't nice anymore and it messed up the scaling. Also, it was very time consuming - 6 hours or more - which makes this a very bad time-effect ratio. The print with the retaining 2 % of the vertices was... ok, but not as nice as with the half million vertices from the original file, mainly because I had to simplify the model &lt;em&gt;first&lt;/em&gt; to even have a chance to see into the model to get the internal cavity vertices grabbed and removed/merged, before fixing any holes left from the mercyless treatment by Meshmixer's auto-repair feature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Is there a way to analyse a model for internal structure and remove them for slicing without having to remodel a 500k vertex / 50 MB object in its full? It would be best if such a way was somewhat automated.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My setup usually uses &lt;a href=&quot;https://ultimaker.com/en/products/ultimaker-cura-software&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Cura&lt;/a&gt; as a slicing engine, my modeling softwares of choice are - in this order - &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.autodesk.com/products/fusion-360/overview?mktvar002=685066&amp;amp;mkwid=sV3AFxPXf%7Cpcrid%7C151820528550%7Cpkw%7Cfusion%20360%7Cpmt%7Ce%7Cpdv%7Cc%7Cslid%7C%7Cpgrid%7C39045227510%7Cptaid%7Ckwd-295025727776%7C&amp;amp;intent=&amp;amp;utm_medium=cpc&amp;amp;utm_source=google&amp;amp;utm_campaign=GGL_Fusion-360_DE-EN_BR_SEM&amp;amp;utm_term=fusion%20360&amp;amp;utm_content=sV3AFxPXf%7Cpcrid%7C151820528550%7Cpkw%7Cfusion%20360%7Cpmt%7Ce%7Cpdv%7Cc%7Cslid%7C%7Cpgrid%7C39045227510%7Cptaid%7Ckwd-295025727776%7C&amp;amp;gclid=Cj0KCQjwpcLZBRCnARIsAMPBgF1N3idbNzM7lBo-tGNVNN_J86wSOpYFEgYp9Gq7iz-05tnYg596a_kaAvh9EALw_wcB&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Fusion360&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.rs-online.com/designspark/mechanical-software&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;DesignSpark Mechanical&lt;/a&gt;. If nothing else helps and I have to attack singe vertices I do my way around &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.blender.org/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Blender&lt;/a&gt;&lt;sup&gt;auto-updated via Steam&lt;/sup&gt;. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.meshmixer.com/download.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Meshmixer&lt;/a&gt; I usually use only to fix up models before slicing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2018-06-25T18:00:02.270" LastActivityDate="2018-06-26T16:30:36.813" Title="Easy way to refine a 3D-model for 3D printing by removing internal geometry" Tags="|3d-models|slicing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6231" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6230" CreationDate="2018-06-25T17:25:39.643" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;About 10 minutes after writing the question, it suddenly dawned on me, that I was not using Meshmixer to its full potential, and especially not a simple property of Cura:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cura can discard all parts of a model, that are intersecting a closed volume and thus are &lt;em&gt;inside&lt;/em&gt; another volume - fixing intersecting shells this way. This option is called &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/20424-mesh-fixes&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Union Overlapping Volumes&lt;/a&gt;&quot;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Meshmixer can, using the meshmix tool, add simple and somewhat complex geometries to specific places in given size and orientation.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, these two parts can be used to get rid or complex internal geometry by intentionally setting it up an intersecting shell. Usually intersecting shells are a no-no for good 3D design, but by having something - for example a cylinder - intersect just the internal geometry and enclosing it, these parts &lt;em&gt;vanish&lt;/em&gt; in the slicing, if the slicer is set to fix intersecting shells by ignoring internal geometry. Cura does so with a simple setting, one that seems to be on by default in the 3.3.1 distribution. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the odd solution to &lt;em&gt;how to reduce a model's internal geometry without impacting the outer look&lt;/em&gt; can be this at times: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Manually &lt;strong&gt;add&lt;/strong&gt; geometry, that &lt;em&gt;(fully) encloses&lt;/em&gt; the internal geometry and turns it into an intersecting shell, allowing (some) slicer softwares to ignore this part.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To illustrate, almost the same area of the object before and after the added cylinder:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KP7Ev.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KP7Ev.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;   &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/c5V78.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/c5V78.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As one can see, the structure became much simpler, as the cylinder cuts away all the internal structure (the 'spokes' and 'axle' one might want to identify from the left picture, but that would be a misidentification) is gone. Much less internal geometry is retained and instead it is now filled with a cylindrical space of nice and fast(er) to print infill, here &quot;Quarter Cubic&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While this is just a &lt;em&gt;partly&lt;/em&gt; automated solution - demanding the manual addition of the intentional intersecting shell - I am yet to be taught about a &lt;em&gt;fully&lt;/em&gt; automated way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2018-06-26T16:30:36.813" LastActivityDate="2018-06-26T16:30:36.813" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6232" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6204" CreationDate="2018-06-25T17:47:36.187" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Fix was actually pretty simple.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I just removed the printer that I had setup on CURA following the manual provided by Creality (found on the provided SD Card) and started from scratch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The one that worked was actually setting up the printer as a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.inky.mx/MPRESORA-CREALITY-CR-10-,728_1513022174?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI6p6pnq_v2wIVQh1pCh3FyQntEAQYBCABEgJ1hPD_BwE&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Creality CR-10&lt;/a&gt; and then just changing the XYZ dimensions. This setup has the &lt;em&gt;Origin at Center&lt;/em&gt; option unchecked as suggested in the comments.  That's all it took...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nt1io.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nt1io.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;New results:&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/G8SIH.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/G8SIH.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11124" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-06-26T06:32:52.163" LastActivityDate="2018-06-26T06:32:52.163" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6233" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-06-25T22:28:44.347" Score="3" ViewCount="424" Body="&lt;p&gt;I purchased two DQ542MA drivers in order to run two NEMA 17 steppers. After about five days of use I noticed that the green indicator light had gone out on both drivers. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The DQ542MA driver running my NEMA 23 High Torque stepper was still running and it has been connected to that stepper for five months now. Using an Ohm meter to check I found that the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Littelfuse/0451010MRL?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtxU2g%2F1juGqdRmCQF0%252bT4VCAcmqQZMjh4%3D&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;10amp 125v&lt;/a&gt; LittleFuse connected to the power pins had blown on both drivers connected to the NEMA 17 steppers cutting off the power. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I decided to test the still working driver by disconnecting it from the NEMA 23 stepper and corresponding pins on the motherboard and connecting and resetting it to work with one of the NEMA 17 steppers. The minute I turned my printer back on, the still working stepper (now attached to the NEMA 17 stepper) immediately blew the same fuse. I don't understand why the NEMA 17 steppers blew the fuses of the drivers, seeing as how both are properly set to a RMS of 1.69 and a pulse/rev of 400, and both are connected to a 24v PSU. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;My question is:&lt;/strong&gt; &quot;When I fix the drivers should I solder in a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Littelfuse/0476015MRSN?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtxU2g%2F1juGqTi%252bNtKN7qu4p8sgPytjpHvp9IQs9yJn3A%3D%3D&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;15amp 125v&lt;/a&gt; LittleFuse to better help the power flow and prevent any further blown fuses?&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9861" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-06-26T06:55:00.883" LastActivityDate="2018-07-18T15:12:49.743" Title="DQ542MA Blown Fuse" Tags="|diy-3d-printer|electronics|switching-power-supply|stepper-driver|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6234" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3202" CreationDate="2018-06-26T01:23:13.960" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Heated beds can help, but you have to be careful using too much heat. If you go above the glass transition temperature (about 60&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C for PLA), the stresses of the upper layers cooling will warp the bottom, because above the glass transition temperature, the PLA can deform. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, I was making very tall and skinny parts, a recipe for warping. At 65&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C, I had a bit of the bottom corners curling, but the part finished. I turned the heat up to 80&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C, and the parts warped so much they came off the build plate. I ran the exact same parts at 58&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C, and they came out beautifully every time. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A higher bed temperature can aid adhesion, (see &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.tandfonline.com/doi/pdf/10.1080/14658011.2017.1399531&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Effect of the printing bed temperature on the adhesion of parts produced by fused filament&#xA;fabrication&lt;/a&gt;), but if the temperature is above the glass transition, the parts can and will deform much more easily.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11185" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-07-03T04:16:23.247" LastActivityDate="2019-07-03T04:16:23.247" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6235" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4209" CreationDate="2018-06-26T08:43:23.793" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Sorry for digging up the topic, but I'd like to share my experience with cheap Chinese parts obtained from those obvious auction sites.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For my &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2254103&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Hypercube Evolution&lt;/a&gt; I have ordered all parts from Chinese suppliers except for the Aluminium extrusion profiles. This includes belts, screws, nuts, electric cables, printer board, steppers and drivers, hotend parts, you name it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do not own, or have ever owned, an official E3D hotend, so I cannot compare the clone E3D hotends to the official directly. However, I do own an Ultimaker 3 Extended (UM3E) that I manage for a group of printing enthusiasts to promote building your own printer and produce spare parts that are not sold commercially or sold at ridiculous prices. The quality of the products produced by the UM3E are very good, as expected from this quality brand, so I can compare the products from my own printer with the ones from the UM3E. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is often said &lt;strong&gt;by others&lt;/strong&gt; that the prints I have created with my HyperCube Evolution are at least as good as the products produced on the UM3E, or sometimes even better. In that respect, it is very hard to see any differences in the products. The UM3E is known for the simplicity of use and it's relative low need to tinker to get or keep it working, but my own creation does not require a lot of tinkering either. E.g. I have never had any clogs (several kilometers of 2.85 mm filament printed) while I use a relative high retraction length (the same as on the UM3E as default in Cura). In this respect I have never had the need to upgrade to an official E3D hotend, and most likely will never do need to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So &lt;strong&gt;to answer your question&lt;/strong&gt; if it is possible to build a hotend, using separate parts, sourced from China, to achieve a high quality print (while maintaining a low need for tinkering), I can vouch &lt;strong&gt;that it is indeed possible&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Sidemark:&#xA;Note that if you source your materials locally, e.g. local webshops, you probably also end up with imported Chinese parts! (usually &lt;strong&gt;at much higher costs&lt;/strong&gt;; but at least they &lt;strong&gt;arrive sooner&lt;/strong&gt;!)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-06-26T09:26:24.220" LastActivityDate="2018-06-26T09:26:24.220" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6236" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3542" CreationDate="2018-06-26T11:39:57.587" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This solution assumes the following &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;a-The scaling factor for the object is correct i.e real world dimensions .&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;b- There is a .STL file available . &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;c- &lt;strong&gt;This will take some 3ds max skill and time .&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Steps to be followed -&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1- Take the .stl file into Autodesk 3ds max . &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2- Now we are going to trace the exposed surface using a process called &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;reptology&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; . Here is link to get you started - &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=azkbuZloTqo&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=azkbuZloTqo&lt;/a&gt; .&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3- Once you are satisfied with recreating the mesh and sure it is as accurate as humanly possible , run the measure utility on the recreated part . &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the link . &lt;a href=&quot;https://knowledge.autodesk.com/support/3ds-max/learn-explore/caas/CloudHelp/cloudhelp/2016/ENU/3DSMax/files/GUID-12CDEA7A-042E-4CB3-9BF6-8191D3290CD8-htm.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://knowledge.autodesk.com/support/3ds-max/learn-explore/caas/CloudHelp/cloudhelp/2016/ENU/3DSMax/files/GUID-12CDEA7A-042E-4CB3-9BF6-8191D3290CD8-htm.html&lt;/a&gt; .&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If there is a upper side and a lower side to the model then you should divide the surface area in half ( in this case it would be ).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3Ds max is very accurate if your part is designed properly .&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;4- This can be done directly on the .STL file if you can efficiently isolate your target area , lemme warn you this is not an easy task .STL files are notoriously difficult to edit. ( its much easier to redesign on top  ) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Try it should work out fine . &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please do not waste time processing .STL files on 3D-Slicer, Seg3D, ITK-Snap&#xA;they are mostly for file preparation i.e (.STL file generation ),viewing and study purposes only .&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9769" LastActivityDate="2018-06-26T11:39:57.587" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6237" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6233" CreationDate="2018-06-26T11:56:47.617" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the fuse blows - there is a reason for that, so changing it for a higher rating without understanding the source of the problem is: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt; Asking for fire!!!&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Every stepper has its own internal resistance (and as we have a magnetic field it is called a &lt;em&gt;reluctance&lt;/em&gt;),  that is limiting the max current, but this equation needs to take &lt;code&gt;U&lt;/code&gt; given to the motor. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A simple and popular solution is to give only as much voltage as&#xA;  needed, utilizing the resistance (RL) of the winding to limit the&#xA;  current (fig. 4a). A more complicated but also more efficient and&#xA;  precise solution is the inclusion of a current generator (fig. 4b), to&#xA;  achieve independence from the winding resistance. The supply voltage&#xA;  in Fig. 4b has to be higher than the one in Fig. 4a. A comparison&#xA;  between both circuits in the dynamic load/working order shows visible&#xA;  differences.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Source &lt;a href=&quot;http://users.ece.utexas.edu/~valvano/Datasheets/Stepper_ST.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;em&gt;Stepper motor driving&lt;/em&gt; by H. SAX - page 2&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said - the higher voltage applied to the stepper - the higher current is flowing via its coils.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please check the datasheet of your driver to see how it is managing to current limit your stepper as that looks like a source of your issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9730" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-06-27T00:44:54.010" LastActivityDate="2018-06-27T00:44:54.010" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6238" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-06-26T15:59:44.077" Score="3" ViewCount="291" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Note&lt;/strong&gt;: Before any negative flagging, we asked permission on Meta prior to posting &amp;amp; got a YES: &lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.meta.stackexchange.com/questions/281/could-this-printing-material-recommendation-question-be-or-shaped-to-be-valid-on/283#283&quot;&gt;Could this Printing Material Recommendation Question be or shaped to be valid on 3D SE?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which common 3D printing materials/methods will suitably replicate (with durability) this injection molded Polypropylene item?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Item to replicate via 3D Printing:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DfX58.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Club Handle&lt;/a&gt; - 5/6 image album (a few images are attached below as well)  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Physics, Mechanics &amp;amp; Forces in play on object:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Usage Intent is not to create an Impact or Hit but to &lt;strong&gt;Flow in Circular motion&lt;/strong&gt; like this: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fIEOWh87ahY&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;YouTube - 10 Best Indian Club Exercises&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Item with &lt;strong&gt;PCO 28 PET Threading&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;20 cm Length - Avg. 28 mm Diameter&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Instead of me trying to figure out materials, I seek advice from experienced experts here. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please advise and suggest on materials:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ideal top 3 materials recommended/ most suitable for this item?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Other top 3 materials that are easier to get through &quot;Entities&quot; on 3dHubs?  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Add Thought:&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;em&gt;Is &quot;negative&quot; printing is the way to go (Sculpting, lathe, threading, CNC types)?&lt;/em&gt;  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Note:&lt;/strong&gt; The immediate answer people gave was to use &lt;strong&gt;PP printing&lt;/strong&gt;, however I am looking for alternatives because PP printing is &lt;strong&gt;not common or easy to find nearby&lt;/strong&gt; and &lt;strong&gt;expensive&lt;/strong&gt;.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Self Homework:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I looked through these &lt;strong&gt;material guides&lt;/strong&gt; which show &lt;strong&gt;different attributes&lt;/strong&gt; and &lt;strong&gt;ratings&lt;/strong&gt; for various &lt;strong&gt;parameters&lt;/strong&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Print-ability&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Strength&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Stiffness&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Durability&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Price&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, Polypropylene - &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.simplify3d.com/support/materials-guide/polypropylene/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Simplify3D - Polypropylene&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Polypropylene is great for high-cycle, low strength applications due to its fatigue resistance, semi-flexible, and lightweight characteristics.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Entire Material Lists looked at:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.simplify3d.com/support/materials-guide/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Simplify3D - Ultimate 3D Printing Materials Guide&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://blog.tinkercad.com/materialsguide/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Tinkercad - 3D Printing Materials Guide&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://all3dp.com/1/3d-printing-materials-guide-3d-printer-material/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;All3DP - 2018 3D Printing Materials Guide&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.com/materials/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;3DPrinting.com - 3D Printer Materials Guide&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.shapeways.com/materials&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Shapeways - Materials for every stage of any project&lt;/a&gt;  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xqbz5.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Injection molded Polypropylene item - image 1&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xqbz5.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Injection molded Polypropylene item - image 1&quot; title=&quot;Injection molded Polypropylene item - image 1&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/X6ZtT.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Injection molded Polypropylene item - image 2&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/X6ZtT.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Injection molded Polypropylene item - image 2&quot; title=&quot;Injection molded Polypropylene item - image 2&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1422" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-08-09T10:31:42.803" LastActivityDate="2018-08-09T10:31:42.803" Title="Which common 3D printing materials/methods will suitably replicate (w.r.t. durability) this injection molded Polypropylene item?" Tags="|print-material|material|support-material|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6239" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6153" CreationDate="2018-06-26T16:25:24.900" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's a type of 1/2&quot; insulation foam available in the US that my shop uses. Here's &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.homedepot.com/p/GAF-0-5-in-x-4-ft-x-8-ft-EnergyGuard-PolyIsocyanurate-Insulation-Sheathing-1S01/204322721&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;a link&lt;/a&gt; to it at Home Depot. It's pretty tough so long as you aren't hanging things off it, and you could build a frame out of 2&quot;x4&quot; beams to pressure fit squares in there. It's also massively sound dampening.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11192" LastActivityDate="2018-06-26T16:25:24.900" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6240" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6238" CreationDate="2018-06-26T18:30:36.470" Score="3" Body="&lt;h2&gt;No FDM print at all.&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem of your design will not be the materials, but a basic property of FDM printing: FDM Printers do create a structure by placing a long string of filament next to itself and ontop of itself, creating tons of boudaries.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These boundaries between the layers are the weak points for this application: Even if the material like ABS could withstand the blow handled with such a club, the print will break at its weakest point - which in this case is any layer boundary. This is amplyfied by the basic design we have here: The elongated shape will serve as a lever on each of the weak boundries, until one gives way and results in catastrophic failure and a flying clubhead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Non-FDM for the rescue.&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To counteract this, you need to use a different method than FDM printing to get a more homogenous material than the bound deposited filament. Such methods could be for example SLA (Stereolithography) or SLS (Selective Laser Sintering). Both could easily offer even tiny details.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;SLS uses Nylon or metal powders, sometimes even ceramics - Tungstencarbide for example.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;SLA/Resin&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using a Resin printer using the SLA methods results in an object almost as homogenous as an injecion molded object. Proper aftercare and curing is required to get the best results. Also, Resin prints usually age under UV light, which can negatively impact lifetime. SLA printers are expensive (for home printers), print shops that offer them relatively rare and costly (in comparison to FDM) but usually offer superb resolution and almost perfect smoothness. A lot of the exact material properties is resin and aftercare dependant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A way around the aging could be that the results of an SLA print could be used to create green-sand molds countless times, which can be used for casting metal or even some thermoplastics. Remember though, that cooling metal shrinks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;SLS Nylon&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Nylon would be a medium rigid, light solution, but it ages and has a quite rough surface. It does offer some flex, almost perfect for this application. While most SLS machines for nylon are commercial to industrial, print technology of this kind is widespread enough to make them somewhat affordable (for an industrial printer) and printshops for these relatively common, prints are not cheap but well priced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;DMLS / SLM&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Direct Metal Laser Sintering and Selective Laser Melting - an evolution of SLS - allows to create structures from various metals by sintering/melting powders of metal at the right spot to gain shape. The benefit would be, that you get a part that could withstand much more destructive testing than your bottle used as a clubhead - you get a workpiece of solid metal (Steel, aluminium, Titanium and a lot others are available) after all that has the same properties as a cast item. The big downside is, that only few companies currently delve into DMLS, among them the former patent holder of many of the FDM printing patents, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.stratasysdirect.com/technologies/direct-metal-laser-sintering&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Stratasys&lt;/a&gt;. This means, that a machine for this is industrial rated and priced, and that print suppliers charge accordingly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:29:41.667" LastActivityDate="2018-06-27T07:55:03.773" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6241" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6238" CreationDate="2018-06-27T04:38:17.633" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;If you want a 3D printing answer then&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I see that the part has a few major points of concern to me: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Threads (Gosh I hate threads).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Tolerance - +/- 0.1 mm-0.2 mm should work fine (in terms of those threads fitting on the top of the bottle)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Strength - This needs to be strong, so as to be able to effectively not break when spinning around.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In terms of tech your best option is - SLS  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Layer resolution - 0.120 mm&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For material options (In descending order of choice)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;PA 11&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; - Impact resistance is the major property for these parts. This is the material for your application .&#xA;Here is the material data sheet - &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.3dhubs.com/material/eos-pa-1102-black&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;EOS PA 1102 Black&lt;/a&gt;.  &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Glass filled PA-12&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; (I'll be taking this as second  option) it has the strength but is extremely brittle . Material Data sheet - &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.3dhubs.com/material/eos-pa-3200-gf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;EOS PA 3200 GF&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;DuraForm ProX HST Composite&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; (The expensive option) Yeah this will work. Check out the data sheet &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.3dhubs.com/material/3d-systems-duraform-prox-hst-composite&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;3D Systems DuraForm ProX HST Composite&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Now the Non 3D printing solution&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, to manufacture this design any other way is actually very simple but the threads are a serious area of concern.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The body section can be cut on a standard 3 axis CNC.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For material options please choose a no brainer like &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;polycarbonate or delrin&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;. Find information here: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.3dhubs.com/cnc-machining/plastic&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Plastic&#xA;CNC machining&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol start=&quot;2&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Threads would have to be manually lathe machined onto it. (You need some beautiful hand work here). This might not be feasible by suppliers on 3dhubs.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now my argument is to go for Additive manufacturing over CNC as you get the part straight out of the machine with the threads and material strength innate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can even make the part hollow using some design skills. This will make it lighter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It would be very nice if you could get your 3D file ready so as to start this whole process and actually go about to manufacture it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can add more details if you want to. Just comment and ask.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9769" LastEditorUserId="9769" LastEditDate="2018-06-29T05:26:04.877" LastActivityDate="2018-06-29T05:26:04.877" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6242" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6233" CreationDate="2018-06-27T08:03:08.783" Score="3" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Part Analysis&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's see what we have:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The fuse in the driver is set to keep up the loads that the driver can safely handle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The NEMA 17 results in a blown out fuse&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Conclusion&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem lies not in the driver, but the NEMA 17 motor or the wires to it and can be of several ways:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The motor has a short and is defective.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The motor is not rated to the driver board.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The wires to the motor create a short.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But there is also a 3rd option, as the driver board is connected to the controller:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The controller supplies the driver with too much current and fries it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Solution&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do not solder in a higher rated fuse, as this is asking for fatal part failure - which could be fire just as much as totally frying the logic circuits on the board forever. Instead, find out what type of error resulted in the blown fuse, and replace these parts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:29:41.667" LastActivityDate="2018-07-18T15:12:49.743" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6243" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6238" CreationDate="2018-06-27T20:54:28.463" Score="2" Body="&lt;h2&gt;I do think that FDM is possible for this item.&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Polyamide (nylon) would be my first choice for this, as it has great interlayer strength and it is very impact resistant and durable. Its failure mode will be permanent bending and stretching rather than cracks or a clean break like common FDM plastics like PLA and ABS.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also needed a filament to simulate PP for FDM use recently, and found that &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.polymaker.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/01/PolyMide%E2%84%A2-CoPA_TDS_V3-1.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Polymaker CoPa&quot;&gt;Polymaker's nylon co-polymer CoPa&lt;/a&gt; in its conditioned state closely matches PP in its properties. Conditioned means that it has absorbed moisture which softens polyamide.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regular nylon for 3d printing should have similar properties to CoPa, if a bit softer than PP in my experience.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;However material is only secondary to geometry&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I believe that in general the actual 3d model and its geometry is more important than the material itself. Indeed this item could be made using regular brittle PLA if the design is good, but it might be heavy or bulky. Thus choosing a better suited material is often a trade between weight, dimensions, and cost. Printing with PLA using very high infill might work, but would take too long and be too heavy compared to nylon, as an example. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This also means that the design of the part would inform the choice of the printing method to be used. Using FDM printing the Z-axis is a lot weaker than X-Y. But other methods are not completely isotropic either - they still have layers that can introduce stress risers and weaker bonding, but they are much less prominent than in FDM. Changing the design can enable you to choose a cheaper process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Two important principles for designing for 3d printing to be considered before doing a final selection of material are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Increasing the dimensions/wall thickness in weak or highly loaded&#xA;areas.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Design with printing orientation in mind.  Choose a proper orientation for the load the item will experience.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To exemplify for your particular case:&#xA;Increase the thickness of the handle around the connection to the bottle.&#xA;Lay it down with the long axis in the X-Y plane which will increase the strength tremendously, perhaps enabling it to be printed in PLA, ABS or PETG. Either split it in half and glue/screw it together, or use supports. You may need to print the threads upright as a separate part that is mated to the handle in the assembly process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, I would like to encourage you to embrace the main benefit of &quot;rapid prototyping&quot; - its speed and low cost to try things out. Make a first prototype and test it to destruction before settling on the design and material selection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11207" LastActivityDate="2018-06-27T20:54:28.463" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6244" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6261" CreationDate="2018-06-28T00:14:49.520" Score="4" ViewCount="211" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to print a model that looks like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BxEDs.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BxEDs.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;at a size of approximately 10&quot;x7&quot;x7&quot;.  I've tried 3 times now, with various different infill and shell settings, and had it fail all 3 times in the same way at the same point: right at the point where the central column begins to angle back (which is a bit higher than where the two side columns angle back--those angles print just fine) the whole thing ends up detached somehow and I end up with messes like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/S3jv3.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/S3jv3.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hgcQ9.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hgcQ9.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I figure out what's going wrong with this print?  I've already wasted a non-trivial amount of time and filament on this, and it's starting to drive me up the wall.  Somehow, I've got the wrong settings to make this geometry print, but I can't seem to find any settings that actually work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using the Raise3D N2 Plus dual-extruder printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT:&lt;/strong&gt; WRT questions raised in the comments:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The extruder isn't clogging. It's continuing to print; it's just that at the point where the central column angles back, the whole thing separates and I end up with a distinct layer that prints straight up and down rather than angling inward.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm using PLA at 215°C and 3 wall layers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This problem seems to be specific to this model; I've been able to print other large things before without problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Never heard of MeshMixer, but &lt;a href=&quot;https://apps.autodesk.com/FUSION/en/Detail/Index?id=4449224772584128239&amp;amp;os=Win64&amp;amp;appLang=en&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;the reviews on the download page&lt;/a&gt; make it appear to be a very buggy and wouldn't work at all, at least in the current version, and it requires a registration to download even though it's nominally free, so I think I'll pass on this one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10981" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2018-06-29T23:07:29.897" LastActivityDate="2018-06-30T13:58:06.423" Title="What is wrong with this angle?" Tags="|software|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="12" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6245" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-06-28T03:02:58.660" Score="5" ViewCount="2101" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm in a situation where I'd like to move the XY axes on my printer extremely slowly (down to 0.05&amp;nbsp;mm/s = 3&amp;nbsp;mm/min). [I'm okay with 'smooth' motion not being possible].&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First off, here's the (somewhat Frankensteined) setup I'm using:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm basically using the LulzBot TAZ 6 for motion control (XYZ, bed temp) with a custom extruder mounted in the place of the printhead. I've got a computer running a Perl script on Debian which sends synchronized commands to my extruder hardware and the board on the TAZ 6. So far I've only slightly modified the Marlin firmware to match the baud rate on my computer and shrink the motion command buffer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Motion control for the TAZ 6 is accomplished by directly sending G-code line by line either from a terminal or from that Perl script. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I've found is that while I can set arbitrarily slow speeds for the Z axis (lead screw), the X and Y (belts) won't go slower than about 15 mm/min. The printer will accept the e.g., &lt;code&gt;G1 F0.1 X1&lt;/code&gt; input, but will just move at the 15&amp;nbsp;mm/min.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately, the experiment I'm trying is giving me good results at ~5&amp;nbsp;mm/min (on a commercial linear stage), so I'd like to resolve this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've tried setting the jerk to 0/low values via &lt;code&gt;M205 S0 T0 X0 Y0&lt;/code&gt;, and the maximum acceleration lower as well (&lt;code&gt;M203&lt;/code&gt;? I recall), but without resolution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is movement limited just by the type of actuator? It seems to work for the Z-axis but not the X/Y-axes, I think it might be some firmware setting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: I've attached an image of the default settings from an &lt;code&gt;M503&lt;/code&gt; call (acceleration, jerk, steps/unit, etc).&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mzC05.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mzC05.png&quot; alt=&quot;&amp;lt;code&amp;gt;M503&amp;lt;/code&amp;gt; Call&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11209" LastEditorUserId="11209" LastEditDate="2018-06-30T21:04:40.847" LastActivityDate="2018-08-30T00:00:49.370" Title="Marlin Minimum X/Y Feedrate" Tags="|marlin|lulzbot|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6246" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6245" CreationDate="2018-06-28T09:31:04.370" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;What I could suggest here is: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;set the acceleration to &lt;code&gt;1&lt;/code&gt; instead &lt;code&gt;0&lt;/code&gt; so we have &lt;code&gt;M201 X1 Y1&lt;/code&gt; &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;use &lt;code&gt;G1&lt;/code&gt; &lt;code&gt;X&lt;/code&gt;dest &lt;code&gt;Y&lt;/code&gt;dest &lt;strong&gt;&lt;code&gt;F3&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; - feed rate is given as an integer&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9730" LastActivityDate="2018-06-28T09:31:04.370" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6247" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6248" CreationDate="2018-06-28T13:24:45.037" Score="2" ViewCount="246" Body="&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;This post was taken from &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/5097/anet-a8-reading-739c-from-the-extruder-thermistor#comment9221_5097&quot;&gt;this comment&lt;/a&gt;, as the OP did not repost &lt;a href=&quot;http://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/5097/anet-a8-reading-739c-from-the-extruder-thermistor#answer-6143&quot;&gt;their deleted answer&lt;/a&gt; as a new question.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;See associated post on SE.Meta: &lt;a href=&quot;https://meta.stackexchange.com/questions/311849/is-it-possible-to-attribute-a-wiki-post-to-a-user&quot;&gt;Is it possible to attribute a wiki post to a user?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With respect to this question: &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/5097/anet-a8-reading-739c-from-the-extruder-thermistor&quot;&gt;Anet A8 reading 739&amp;#176;C from the extruder thermistor!&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having read the issue, it seems that this is a common problem for the ANET3D board.  I'd like to ask two questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Is it possible to sever connections to the ATMEGA and use the hardware itself while controlled with the Raspberry Pi or some other dev board?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;While waiting for a new board (seems to be the only cost/time effective choice), is there any way to use the other temperature circuit (likely having to do some work in Arduino IDE)?  &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My hot end decided to set itself to 265°C while my bed is reading the new thermistor on the new Hot End just fine.  I need to get a few prints made while waiting on funds to replace the board for full functionality.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I figure #1 is too much to hope for, but I have to ask. So, if you swap the heater circuits, what do you have to modify in &lt;code&gt;configuration.h&lt;/code&gt; to convince the firmware to accept the modified input?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4762" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-06-29T23:11:27.860" LastActivityDate="2018-06-29T23:11:27.860" Title="How to use an Anet A8 control board with a damaged AVR IC?" Tags="|extruder|anet-a8|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2018-06-28T13:24:45.037" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6248" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6247" CreationDate="2018-06-28T13:26:09.140" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;This post was taken from &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/5097/anet-a8-reading-739c-from-the-extruder-thermistor#comment9222_5097&quot;&gt;Tooniis's comment&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've been doing #2 for a week now. I swapped ports of the nozzle and hotbed. Now I have a functional nozzle but the bed cannot be heated. The new hardware should arrive soon though. As for #1, it would be very hard to do since the ATmega chip is an SMD package. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In &lt;code&gt;sanguino.h&lt;/code&gt; there are two lines which define the pins for the hotbed thermistor and the nozzle thermistor. One of them is &lt;code&gt;6&lt;/code&gt; and the other is &lt;code&gt;7&lt;/code&gt;, and I just swapped those two. The lines are next to each other.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4762" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-06-28T13:32:37.230" LastActivityDate="2018-06-28T13:32:37.230" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2018-06-28T13:26:09.140" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6249" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2018-06-28T14:36:46.530" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Anet A6 is a low-cost Chinese clone of the Prusa i3 design of Josef Průša.  The design of the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.anet3d.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Anet&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprint.wiki/reprap/anet/a6&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;A6&lt;/a&gt; is focused on creating an easy accessible, low cost budget printer rather than maximizing the quality of the printer. The acrylic frame does not provide enough stiffness like the metal frame of the original, but the community has developed a lot of [upgrades][3] for this printer to modify it to a decent printer for its value.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4762" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-10-03T06:09:31.363" LastActivityDate="2018-10-03T06:09:31.363" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6250" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2018-06-28T14:36:46.530" Score="0" Body="This tag should be used for specific questions about specific issues for the Anet A6 printers. " OwnerUserId="4762" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-10-03T06:09:31.363" LastActivityDate="2018-10-03T06:09:31.363" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6251" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2018-06-28T14:41:56.733" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;BLTouch is an auto leveling sensor for 3D Printers that can precisely measure the tilt of the bed surface. It works with any kinds of bed materials, such as glass, wood, metal, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.antclabs.com/bltouch&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;BLTouch :: Auto Bed Leveling Sensor for 3D Printers&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Features&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Main functions and controls of BLTouch are the same as usual auto bed leveling sensor, consists of RC servo and micro switch.&#xA;Thus, BLTouch can be applied on almost every board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;BLTouch is fulfilled with simple structure and high precision by using&#xA;progressively designed solenoid and hall sensor. It aims for user&#xA;convenience and enjoyable printing by adding many smart functions,&#xA;such as self-test, alarm, alarm release &amp;amp; Touch Switch mode, Blue LED&#xA;for servo signal indicating and Z-probe(Zmin) Testing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4762" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-07-22T06:39:21.130" LastActivityDate="2020-07-22T06:39:21.130" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6252" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2018-06-28T14:41:56.733" Score="0" Body="For questions about the BLTouch automatic leveling sensor for 3D Printers. &#xD;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4762" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-03-19T10:38:57.443" LastActivityDate="2019-03-19T10:38:57.443" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6253" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2018-06-28T15:27:29.373" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;From &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/STL_(file_format)&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Wikipedia - STL (file format)&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;STL (an abbreviation of &quot;stereolithography&quot;) is a file format native&#xA;  to the stereolithography CAD software created by 3D Systems.&#xA;  STL has several after-the-fact backronyms such as &quot;Standard Triangle&#xA;  Language&quot; and &quot;Standard Tessellation Language&quot;. This file format is&#xA;  supported by many other software packages; it is widely used for rapid&#xA;  prototyping, 3D printing and computer-aided manufacturing. STL&#xA;  files describe only the surface geometry of a three-dimensional object&#xA;  without any representation of color, texture or other common CAD model&#xA;  attributes. The STL format specifies both ASCII and binary&#xA;  representations. Binary files are more common, since they are more&#xA;  compact.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4762" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-06-28T15:27:29.373" LastActivityDate="2018-06-28T15:27:29.373" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6254" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2018-06-28T15:27:29.373" Score="0" Body="For questions regarding `.stl` files and the STL file format." OwnerUserId="4762" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-06-28T15:27:29.373" LastActivityDate="2018-06-28T15:27:29.373" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6256" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2018-06-29T07:48:57.240" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Rather than using USB, in certain cases, and with the appropriate hardware and software, Wi-Fi can be used to communicate with a 3D printer&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4762" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-06-29T07:48:57.240" LastActivityDate="2018-06-29T07:48:57.240" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6257" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2018-06-29T07:48:57.240" Score="0" Body="For questions about Wi-Fi (where related to the communication with a 3D printer)" OwnerUserId="4762" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-06-29T07:48:57.240" LastActivityDate="2018-06-29T07:48:57.240" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6258" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2018-06-29T07:49:50.763" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="4762" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-06-29T07:49:50.763" LastActivityDate="2018-06-29T07:49:50.763" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6259" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2018-06-29T07:49:50.763" Score="0" Body="For questions about communication protocols, when communicating with a 3D printer" OwnerUserId="4762" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-06-29T07:49:50.763" LastActivityDate="2018-06-29T07:49:50.763" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6260" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6545" CreationDate="2018-06-29T10:25:09.957" Score="6" ViewCount="387" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just re-ran all basic calibration steps from the Original Prusa i3 MK2 Manual.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, when doing the first layer calibration, lines that are running in positive X direction are ok, while those running in negative X direction are severely squished.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5zzEl.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5zzEl.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Print of the default V2Calibration.gcode file on my Prusa i3 MK2&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;em&gt;(The &quot;waviness&quot; of my print bed is an artifact of the camera lens distortion of my smartphone)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I already did Bed level correction, so each line is exactly the same width over its entire distance and tried to raise the live-adjust Z, but that leads to the thin lines not adhering at all. My printer is 100% stock, I modified nothing about it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What can I do to troubleshoot this further?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7540" LastActivityDate="2018-08-04T15:14:57.597" Title="Line width changes depending on the direction the print head moves" Tags="|prusa-i3|print-quality|fdm|calibration|troubleshooting|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6261" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6244" CreationDate="2018-06-30T13:58:06.423" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hex infill patterns are normally chosen for strength, as the honeycomb resists force in many directions. However, hex infill patterns are slow to print and the older, simpler fill patterns print faster and provide sufficient support for solid architectural models.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Models with shallow roof angles of less than 45 degrees are challenging to print and often result in &quot;air prints&quot; where unsupported filament cascades into a sorry tangle of sadness. Shallow roofs are challenging because each horizontal filament overlaps very little with the preceding adjacent filament. This is where infill proves critical, since the infill supports these filament bridges as they cross each infill line segment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Slicing software has only recently introduced the hex fill pattern because the code to print a hex infill is VERY complicated. You can see this in the picture as all those fine lines of retracted filament scattered throughout the hex infill. Earlier, simpler fills such as diagonal lines provide simpler longer paths for the slicer to implement. Bridging works best at speed over many supporting points. Excessive retraction causes the extruder to &quot;stutter&quot;, and makes bridging difficult.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It may therefore help to choose a simpler fill pattern for printing this model and reserve hex infill for simpler models requiring utmost strength.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10938" LastActivityDate="2018-06-30T13:58:06.423" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6262" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-06-30T14:14:13.950" Score="5" ViewCount="257" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought a digital sundial online and deployed it in (what else?) direct sunlight in DC in June. Within 30 minutes the gnomon started to sag and the mount started to pull away from the gnomon at the bolt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This shouldn't happen, right? Or is this expected?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11223" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2018-09-16T12:37:42.083" LastActivityDate="2018-09-16T12:37:42.083" Title="Should black high temperature ABS flow in direct sunlight?" Tags="|print-quality|3d-design|print-material|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6263" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3023" CreationDate="2018-06-30T20:32:46.900" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If using &lt;code&gt;marlin firmware&lt;/code&gt; center your prints.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my case...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#define NOZZLE_X          8&#xA;#define NOZZLE_Y          -56&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then, set the Z-Probe offset from nozzle.&#xA;In my case the Z-Probe is 50mm behind the hotend.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#define SENSOR_LEFT        0&#xA;#define SENSOR_RIGHT       0&#xA;#define SENSOR_FRONT       0&#xA;#define SENSOR_BEHIND      50&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally set the bed extra movement. As you see i added the 50mm's at the back of the bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#define XTRA_BED_LEFT     0  // Distance nozzle can move towards the left past X = 0&#xA;#define XTRA_BED_RIGHT    0  // Distance nozzle can move towards the right past X = 200&#xA;#define XTRA_BED_FRONT    0  // Distance bed can move towards the front past Y = 200 (Y=280 for large bed)&#xA;#define XTRA_BED_BACK     50  // Distance bed can move towards the back past Y = 0&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This way once auto leveling, the probe starts with (0,0) and the hotend is 50&amp;nbsp;mm's in front and out of the bed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10230" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-07-05T20:20:55.463" LastActivityDate="2019-07-05T20:20:55.463" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6264" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3023" CreationDate="2018-06-30T22:16:24.073" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;It is not a problem&lt;/strong&gt; that the sensor is &lt;em&gt;not above&lt;/em&gt; the build plate &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;during printing&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; as long as it is &lt;em&gt;above&lt;/em&gt; the build plate &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;during the auto bed levelling sequence&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Homing does not necessarily need to be the &lt;code&gt;(0,0)&lt;/code&gt; coordinate. Usually, a printer homes on the endstop switches, from that coordinate an offset is defined in the firmware to move to the origin. This implies that (depending on the position of the sensor), the sensor may be outside the bed area when the nozzle is at the origin &lt;code&gt;(0, 0)&lt;/code&gt;). Therefore, similarly, you need to tell the printer the location of the Z sensor with respect to the nozzle position in order for the printer to keep the sensor on the bed when levelling by setting boundaries for the sensor to reach.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;E.g. for &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Marlin firmware&lt;/a&gt; the offset from homing to the bed origin is defined for an &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/blob/1.1.x/Marlin/example_configurations/Anet/A8/Configuration.h&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Anet A8&lt;/a&gt; by:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#define X_MIN_POS -33&#xA;#define Y_MIN_POS -10&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The values you should use need to correspond to the actual offset from the homing point to the origin of the bed &lt;code&gt;(0,0)&lt;/code&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When using an auto bed leveling sensor like you are using you should consider this remark:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If using a Probe for Z Homing, enable Z_SAFE_HOMING also!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Un-comment the proper line in the configuration file to read:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#define Z_SAFE_HOMING&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This will make the printer aware of the sensor, and home Z in the middle of the bed (default behavior, but can be changed), so that your sensor is never off the bed when probing the bed for Z homing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Furthermore, you need to set the offset values of the center of your sensor to the nozzle center:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt; *   Z Probe to nozzle (X,Y) offset, relative to (0, 0).&#xA; *   X and Y offsets must be integers.&#xA; *&#xA; *   In the following example the X and Y offsets are both positive:&#xA; *   #define X_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER 10&#xA; *   #define Y_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER 10&#xA; *&#xA; *      +-- BACK ---+&#xA; *      |           |&#xA; *    L |    (+) P  | R &amp;lt;-- probe (20,20)&#xA; *    E |           | I&#xA; *    F | (-) N (+) | G &amp;lt;-- nozzle (10,10)&#xA; *    T |           | H&#xA; *      |    (-)    | T&#xA; *      |           |&#xA; *      O-- FRONT --+&#xA; *    (0,0)&#xA; */&#xA;#define X_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER XXX   // X offset: -left  +right  [of the nozzle]&#xA;#define Y_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER YYY   // Y offset: -front +behind [the nozzle]&#xA;#define Z_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER 0   // Z offset: -below +above  [the nozzle]&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Where XXX and YYY are your actual values.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And set the boundary of the probing section:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;// Set the boundaries for probing (where the probe can reach).&#xA;#define LEFT_PROBE_BED_POSITION 15&#xA;#define RIGHT_PROBE_BED_POSITION 190&#xA;#define FRONT_PROBE_BED_POSITION 15&#xA;#define BACK_PROBE_BED_POSITION 170&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that the values should match your bed size!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;// The Z probe minimum outer margin (to validate G29 parameters).&#xA;#define MIN_PROBE_EDGE 10&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Details on setting the boundaries of the bed to keep the sensor on the bed is described in question &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;/q/8153&quot;&gt;How to set Z-probe boundary limits in firmware when using automatic bed leveling?&lt;/a&gt;&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-07-11T20:43:32.260" LastActivityDate="2019-07-11T20:43:32.260" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6265" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6183" CreationDate="2018-06-30T23:18:34.317" Score="5" Body="&lt;h1&gt;tl;dr&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had a dragging idler pulley that was causing extrusion issues. Opening the idler pulley door and working it a bit with my finger resolve the issue. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;The detailed explanation&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So after two weeks or so of troubleshooting, banging my head, taking a break, and coming back to it I'm finally getting good prints again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do believe the original problem started with the clogged nozzle due to the bore hole diameter being too small for the glitter filament as mentioned by Axel in the post comments (a bit rude about it, but still probably true), but there were other issues that I ran into. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Troubleshooting steps&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;General cleaning&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After I switched back to inland filament (which had been working fine for months) I was still having extrusion issues. At this point it was due to the clog (I suspect).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ik0ha.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ik0ha.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried several steps to unclog the nozzle including &lt;a href=&quot;https://help.prusa3d.com/l/en/article/WWVRzOY1dX-clogged-nozzle&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;the steps suggested by prusa support&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g8uvh6kvr54&amp;amp;t=315s&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;cleaning techniques suggested by Tom&lt;/a&gt; amongst other places. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also picked up &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B00CWDO1XU&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;a couple of pencil brushes on amazon&lt;/a&gt; including a small brass brush that's perfect for cleaning off the extruder pulley teeth. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Cold pulls&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;During these steps, I think I introduces the second problem without being aware of it. I perform a bunch of cold pulls (explained by Tom in his video and other videos and posts). During one of these cold pulls I forgot to loosen the MK3's idler pulley door before tugging. Once I noticed it I loosened the door, but I think that tug may have affected the idler pully getting it a bit gritty (I don't know &lt;em&gt;how&lt;/em&gt; it would have done that, but it's my current guess). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At this point I was still getting extrusion issues and didn't think about the idler pulley being the issue, so thinking that the nozzle was still the issue I ordered a second E3D nozzle and some Ethyl Acetate which dissolves PLA.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Notes on Nozzles and Ethyl Acetate&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;E3D nozzles&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A couple of helpful points I learned while researching these purchases. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a &lt;em&gt;lot&lt;/em&gt; of cheap nozzles that say they work on the E3D, but be sure to read the comments from whatever nozzle you're looking at because apparently a lot of them either don't fit or don't print well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I ended up purchasing a replacement nozzle sold directly from E3D to be safe. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Ethyl acetate&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as the Ethyl Acetate, I was having a hard time finding it online when looking for it as a solvent without having to purchase the chemical in a giant jar. I didn't want to buy a jug, I only needed a bit. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After doing a bit more research I found out that it's the same chemical that &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ethyl_acetate#Entomological_killing_agent&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;entomologists use to kill insects for preservation&lt;/a&gt; and when you look for the chemical from that context you can find it sold in much smaller quantities. I was able to find &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B0755JYFJS&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;a small jar of ethyl acetate on amazon for 7 dollars&lt;/a&gt;. Smaller, safer, and cheaper. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Finding the actual problem&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once the nozzle and ethyl acetate came in I pulled off the old nozzle, dropped it into the ethyl acetate to soak, put the new nozzle on (per the instructions from prusa's website), and reaccelerated the printer just to be safe. I tried printing a test block and it seemed better, so I then tried a larger print and while the printed model seemed better, it was still obviously having extrusion issues and crumpled in my hand. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With the nozzle ruled out, I started looking elsewhere on the printer. After watching &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C2C_LkHyCNM&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;a video from the 3D Printing Nerd on extrusion issues he was having on his MK3&lt;/a&gt; I decided to check the extruder pulleys. When I tried to open my extruder idler pulley door I noticed I couldn't actually get it open; it seemed to be stuck on the bottom. I tried to free the bottom of the door, but couldn't without forcing it past my comfort level. Instead, I unscrewed &lt;a href=&quot;https://manual.prusa3d.com/Guide/5.+E-axis+assembly/510?lang=en#s8310&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;the top of the pulley door&lt;/a&gt; to remove it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jWuoE.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jWuoE.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From here I noticed two things, I didn't get the pulley teeth as clean as I though I had before and the idler pulley's mounting rod was extended just a bit (which is what was causing it to stick at the bottom). I adjusted the rod and put the door back on. It was printing better but still had extrusion issues. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I then watched the pulley during the filament loading and notices that while the extruder stepper motor was turning smooth, the idler pulley was stuttering a bit while turning. I imagine those little stops and starts were what was causing the extrusion issue. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I opened the idler door back up and worked the idler pulley a bit with my finger. It started to spin free (maybe there was gunk in it? maybe it was rubbing a bit against the mount? ¯\_(ツ)_/¯), so I closed the door and screwed it back in tight. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ran a test print -&gt; perfect. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ploY0.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ploY0.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've run several prints increasing in complexity and it seems like I'm back to printing well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PVcRA.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PVcRA.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;How I introduced my own problem&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As I noted above in the explanation, I think I introduced the problem during a cold pull where I forgot to loosen the idler pulley door. I know this explanation is super verbose, but when looking around, even after fixing the printer, I haven't really seen many people noting that on the MK3 you should make sure the door isn't screwed down when performing the cold pull. It's def a common sense move, but I don't see it mentioned as a potential for introducing a problem. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also I didn't see a dragging idler pulley as a possible cause of extrusion issue so I thought I'd note it here as well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hopefully if anyone else has a similar problem on the MK3 this will be a source of help. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11104" LastEditorUserId="11104" LastEditDate="2018-06-30T23:27:23.570" LastActivityDate="2018-06-30T23:27:23.570" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6266" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6270" CreationDate="2018-07-01T02:09:53.910" Score="3" ViewCount="1005" Body="&lt;p&gt;How can I detect if a generated STL model will need to be printed with supports?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Context: I have a pipeline which parametrically generates OpenSCAD models, generates the STL, and sends them to the printer.  I would like to (a) automatically detect the cases where supports are necessary so that I can specify the appropriate flags to the slicer, and (b) attempt to rotate the generated model so that supports won't be necessary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6851" LastEditorUserId="6851" LastEditDate="2018-07-01T22:21:43.650" LastActivityDate="2018-07-02T04:25:11.853" Title="How can I tell if an STL model will need supports?" Tags="|support-structures|stl|algorithm|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6267" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6268" CreationDate="2018-07-01T02:19:17.693" Score="8" ViewCount="1172" Body="&lt;p&gt;When generating STL files with slic3r I would like to automatically prefix the filename with strings such as PLA or PET before uploading to my printer.  How can I specify this in the filament settings?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6851" LastActivityDate="2018-07-15T14:13:17.767" Title="Slic3r: How can I automatically modify the STL filename?" Tags="|slicing|slic3r|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6268" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6267" CreationDate="2018-07-01T09:11:39.617" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;The filename is under the &quot;Print settings&quot; tab. Under output options, you can change the name template. You can use words like: [layer_height] to make the name dynamic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The variable you are looking for here is: [filament_preset]&#xA;But the full name, with space and everything, is used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a screenshot:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JWVts.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JWVts.png&quot; alt=&quot;output options&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a link to fuller docs:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/slic3r/Slic3r/wiki/FAQ#how-can-i-specify-a-custom-filename-format-for-output-g-code-files&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://github.com/slic3r/Slic3r/wiki/FAQ#how-can-i-specify-a-custom-filename-format-for-output-g-code-files&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;New version of Slic3r&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It lets you edit the filename when upload it. You will see what will be upload it and give it any name. But this is a manual process. Just updated my answer for the sake of completeness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5395" LastEditorUserId="5395" LastEditDate="2018-07-15T14:13:17.767" LastActivityDate="2018-07-15T14:13:17.767" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6269" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6271" CreationDate="2018-07-01T20:19:23.797" Score="7" ViewCount="3658" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently had a series of issues with my prusa MK3 that kicked off when I tried to print with Proto-pasta's glitter filament using a 0.4 mm nozzle. The glitter clogged up and cleaning it out was pretty difficult.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A different user here pointed out that 0.4 mm was too small for glitter filament. When I initially read (and, after the clogging fiasco, re-read) the Proto-pasta website I didn't find any information suggesting that a larger nozzle borehole diameter was necessary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have the glitter and metalic green filaments. Do I need a nozzle with a larger diameter to print these or not? I emailed Proto-pasta about it the other day but have yet to hear back.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Update&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's the reply I got from proto-pasta on these questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you for following up. Yes cold pulls that leave behind material can cause all sorts of trouble. It happens to me on the Lulzbot quite often, probably my biggest gripe about that machine.  Anyways, on to your questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Is this accurate? Should I print the glitter filament with a nozzle with a larger borehole diameter?&#xA;A larger bore is not needed, the glitter flake is quite small and flows through a 0.4 nozzle fine. However, using a 0.4 nozzle and printing layer heights of 0.1 or 0.05 with glitter can cause a shift in apparent color as it forces the glitter to lay down flat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If so, what diameter should I use? 0.6?&#xA;While not needed, a 0.6 nozzle does allow for a better sparkle or shine from the glitter filament.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Are there other proto-pasta filaments that require a larger borehole?&#xA;Generally any metal or wood filled filament benefits from a large nozzle size. For example, wood filaments most people suggest a 0.5 for better flow but they do work at 0.4. For us, we like to use 0.6 on the metal fills as it allows for a good flow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I have a spool of matte fiber htpla that I got with my last order. Can I print this with my nozzle?&#xA;The matte fiber was designed as a non-abasive alternative to the Carbon Fiber filament. It does not require a larger nozzle, a 0.4 will work just fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11104" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:29:41.667" LastActivityDate="2019-08-31T08:37:53.957" Title="What nozzle size should I use for filament containing glitter?" Tags="|filament|filled-pla|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6270" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6266" CreationDate="2018-07-01T23:07:32.777" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could try to:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Slice with slicer (Cura in my case) with support enabled.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Search for text: &lt;em&gt;TYPE:SUPPORT&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;G0 F1800 X237.873 Y184.24&lt;br&gt;&#xA;G0 X233.869 Y183.237&lt;br&gt;&#xA;;TYPE:SUPPORT&lt;br&gt;&#xA;G1 F1500 E562.81355&lt;br&gt;&#xA;G1 F900 X233.579 Y183.939 E562.91577&lt;br&gt;&#xA;G1 X233.368 Y184.67 E563.01816&lt;br&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If it exists, then try to call it again:&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use auto-orientation plugin to validate if there is a better (no support) model position.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As an alternative, you could scan the mesh and looks for an angle greater than 45 or 50 degrees.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9730" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-07-02T04:25:11.853" LastActivityDate="2018-07-02T04:25:11.853" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6271" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6269" CreationDate="2018-07-02T04:40:23.630" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Fact is that you encounter clogs with this filament, so trying a larger diameter nozzle is an option to solve this. Nozzles are very cheaply found in various sizes, so buy a few and experiment. Commonly found larger nozzle sizes are 0.5, 0.6 and 0.8 mm nozzles, even larger nozzles exist, like e.g. 1.0 mm or even larger, but keep in mind that the hot end needs to keep up heating of the extruded filament, so deposition speed may need to be reduced for larger nozzle diameters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively, you could fight clogs the usual way by playing with temperature, layer height, retract settings, oiling filament, purging nozzle from previous filament or cooked up residue, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.nl/amp/s/amp.rigid.ink/blogs/news/clogged-extruder-nozzle-what-causes-it-how-to-avoid-it-and-how-to-fix-it&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;etc&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/214/how-do-i-keep-my-extruder-head-from-getting-clogged&quot;&gt;etc&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Quoting someone's &lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?178,416576&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;experience&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;As far as differences, here has been my experience:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;0.5 mm low back pressure (High speed), and very hard to clog,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;0.4 mm medium back pressure, rarely clogs,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;0.35 mm high back pressure and very easy to clog.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit&lt;/strong&gt;: &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6183/issues-with-proto-pasta-filament-extruding-on-prusa-mk3&quot;&gt;According to Proto-pasta&lt;/a&gt;, concerning filament with glitter, a 0.4 mm nozzle should not be a problem as the glitter particles are smaller, the print layer thickness definitely can be a problem. However, they state that a larger diameter nozzle will result in more sparkle as the glitter is not laid too flat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-07-02T18:18:43.607" LastActivityDate="2018-07-02T18:18:43.607" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6272" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6262" CreationDate="2018-07-02T04:53:21.620" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are you sure that this is ABS? (Since it is already trash, you can make a fire test. It should [correct me if i'm wrong] produce black smoke) Some ABS can becomes soft at already  80°C.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just for fun I measured the temp of my gray sofa that was directly in sun light: It was over 70°C. So it could be possible that the sun light already was enough to weak the black ABS. Also the ground is interesting. Some idi**** room mate puts my black ¿abs? alarm clock on a metal windowsill because he want to know the temps there in the direct sunlight... the alarm clock becomes deformed :(&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Probably white and/or coated ABS would be better. Also a inner rod would help against deformation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9575" LastActivityDate="2018-07-02T04:53:21.620" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6273" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-07-02T17:33:27.813" Score="2" ViewCount="937" Body="&lt;p&gt;When using Slic3r I noticed that &lt;code&gt;Slice now&lt;/code&gt; and &lt;code&gt;Export G-Code&lt;/code&gt; do different things. While &lt;code&gt;Slice now&lt;/code&gt; is nice, it does not show any tool paths etc. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there an actual way to generate and visualize the G-code in Slic3r without saving the exported G-Code first? When aligning seams etc., it is quite annoying to always save the file to see a difference because &lt;code&gt;Slice now&lt;/code&gt; seems to make little difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10621" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-07-02T20:22:10.397" LastActivityDate="2018-07-06T22:50:07.770" Title="See G-code before exporting" Tags="|slicing|slic3r|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6274" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6273" CreationDate="2018-07-02T23:38:43.207" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;After you use the Slice Now button (and the slicing progress bar shows completed), select the preview tab. To the right of the window you will see a pair of vertical sliders. Each slider changes the start and finish locations for the filament layers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can slide the left one to the bottom, which will &quot;empty&quot; the virtual print bed. Each movement upward will display a succeeding layer, showing the placement of the filament. This ostensibly will present to you alignment information as well as unexpected holes or other failure points.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know of any slicer that lacks a preview. That doesn't mean one does not exist, but why would such a useful feature be omitted?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastActivityDate="2018-07-02T23:38:43.207" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6276" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5611" CreationDate="2018-07-03T11:50:03.893" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes. I have worked with people who have printed implants of PCL, loaded with antibiotics, for delivery at the infection site: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/search?q=pcl+medical+approval&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.google.com/search?q=pcl+medical+approval&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also look at PPSU: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/search?q=ppsu+medical+approval&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.google.com/search?q=ppsu+medical+approval&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And PEEK: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/search?q=peek+medical+approval&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.google.com/search?q=peek+medical+approval&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These are currently used for appliances; I'm not aware of them being used for implants yet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4922" LastActivityDate="2018-07-03T11:50:03.893" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6277" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6282" CreationDate="2018-07-03T19:32:30.193" Score="4" ViewCount="3567" Body="&lt;p&gt;My G29 command reports&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;+0.178 +0.281 +0.830&#xA;-0.614 -0.012 +0.371&#xA;-1.208 -0.849 -0.351&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So should I tighten up the screw of the bed, close to 0,0 position or loosen it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a feeling that when I loosen it, it gets away from zero and I expect the opposite to happen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For bed leveling i use a capacitive probe and after playing around with the screws here is the result&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;+0.406 +0.127 +0.411&#xA;-0.161 -0.007 -0.041&#xA;-0.572 -0.652 -0.668&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally the leveling process was found &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y_1Kg45APko&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;But the question remains. The value &lt;code&gt;-0.572&lt;/code&gt; corresponds close to &lt;code&gt;0,0&lt;/code&gt; ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10230" LastEditorUserId="10230" LastEditDate="2018-07-04T19:11:35.567" LastActivityDate="2018-07-06T22:43:42.450" Title="BiLinear bed leveling" Tags="|marlin|bed-leveling|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6278" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6260" CreationDate="2018-07-04T06:08:39.093" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;As pointed at by @Horitsu, the Nozzle was the problem. Its outflowing hole was not perfectly round anymore, leading to a higher extrusion rate in one direction than others.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I exchanged it, and now everything works great again!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7540" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-08-04T15:14:57.597" LastActivityDate="2018-08-04T15:14:57.597" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6279" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6285" CreationDate="2018-07-04T16:54:07.093" Score="3" ViewCount="931" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just received an old 3D printer from one of my school teachers. I have no idea whatsoever as to which brand it is, no instruction manual attached to it, or any other info about it.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I find some information about it?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some links would be very useful. Remember when giving advice that I know nothing about 3D printers.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the printer:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Backside&lt;/em&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GC3mb.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Printer as seen from the back&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GC3mb.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Printer as seen from the back&quot; title=&quot;Printer as seen from the back&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Front&lt;/em&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FmDtw.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Printer as seen from the front&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FmDtw.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Printer as seen from the front&quot; title=&quot;Printer as seen from the front&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;The X-axis stepper&lt;/em&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OXuiX.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;The X-axis stepper&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OXuiX.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;The X-axis stepper&quot; title=&quot;The X-axis stepper&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;The electronics board&lt;/em&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YTJwl.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;The electronics board&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YTJwl.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;The electronics board&quot; title=&quot;The electronics board&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11245" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-07-05T14:15:14.527" LastActivityDate="2020-11-13T03:39:16.210" Title="Very old 3D Printer, which brand or type is this?" Tags="|troubleshooting|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6280" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5275" CreationDate="2018-07-04T17:07:13.273" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well I found the solution on Marlin's GitHub:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/issues/9155&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/issues/9155&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;but it might have been solved without having to hack the file since then.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8274" LastActivityDate="2018-07-04T17:07:13.273" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6281" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6283" CreationDate="2018-07-04T21:32:04.370" Score="5" ViewCount="4571" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an Anet A8, and recently updated the firmware to Marlin 1.1.8.&#xA;My only change was replacing the configuration files by the Anet A8 sample files built in with the firmware zip file.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Everything works fine but, sometimes, right after finishing a printing (while doing the &quot;home all&quot;), the LCD shows some weird data, like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8H1Vn.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;LCD weird data&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8H1Vn.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;LCD weird data&quot; title=&quot;LCD weird data&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The same happens when push the &quot;confirm&quot;, after the mesh bed leveling.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I'd like to know why it happens. Is it a Marlin bug?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11246" LastEditorUserId="11246" LastEditDate="2018-07-05T00:05:38.447" LastActivityDate="2019-10-14T11:17:45.093" Title="Anet A8 LCD shows garbage data after done printing" Tags="|marlin|anet-a8|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6282" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6277" CreationDate="2018-07-04T21:44:23.903" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Proper leveling using plain &quot;A4&quot; or &quot;Letter&quot; paper is recommended. Level the bed by first homing all axes, then level each corner and at mid-span. In between leveling (by dragging the nozzle head from one to another position, beware of the hot nozzle!) redirect the nozzle to &quot;Z=0&quot; or home Z and instruct the printer to go to &quot;Z=0&quot;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that capacitive probe sensors are inaccurate, they tend to be influenced by the humidity of air.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Running Marlin Firmware and instructing a &lt;code&gt;G29&lt;/code&gt; trough a terminal gives me something in the region of the unity matrix:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Recv: Bed Level Correction Matrix:&#xA;Recv: +0.999994 +0.000000 -0.003585&#xA;Recv: +0.000003 +1.000000 +0.000823&#xA;Recv: +0.003585 -0.000823 +0.999993&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Running the command &lt;code&gt;G29 P3 V4&lt;/code&gt; gives:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;NOTE:&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;code&gt;P&lt;/code&gt; Set the size of the grid that will be probed (P x P points)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;code&gt;V&lt;/code&gt; Set the verbose level (0-4)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Recv: G29 Auto Bed Leveling&#xA;Recv: Bed X: 25.000 Y: 22.000 Z: 0.138&#xA;Recv: Bed X: 109.000 Y: 22.000 Z: 0.071&#xA;Recv: Bed X: 193.000 Y: 22.000 Z: -0.842&#xA;Recv: Bed X: 193.000 Y: 97.000 Z: -0.427&#xA;Recv: Bed X: 109.000 Y: 97.000 Z: 0.083&#xA;Recv: Bed X: 25.000 Y: 97.000 Z: 0.086&#xA;Recv: Bed X: 25.000 Y: 172.000 Z: 0.004&#xA;Recv: Bed X: 109.000 Y: 172.000 Z: 0.019&#xA;Recv: Bed X: 193.000 Y: 172.000 Z: -0.297&#xA;Recv: Eqn coefficients: a: -0.00356075 b: 0.00080090 d: 2.38097906&#xA;Recv: Mean of sampled points: 2.07054519&#xA;Recv: &#xA;Recv: Bed Height Topography:&#xA;Recv:    +--- BACK --+&#xA;Recv:    |           |&#xA;Recv:  L |    (+)    | R&#xA;Recv:  E |           | I&#xA;Recv:  F | (-) N (+) | G&#xA;Recv:  T |           | H&#xA;Recv:    |    (-)    | T&#xA;Recv:    |           |&#xA;Recv:    O-- FRONT --+&#xA;Recv:  (0,0)&#xA;Recv:   0.13385  0.14866 -0.16731&#xA;Recv:   0.21531  0.21284 -0.29814&#xA;Recv:   0.26715  0.20050 -0.71286&#xA;Recv: &#xA;Recv: Corrected Bed Height vs. Bed Topology:&#xA;Recv:   0.12837  0.44228  0.42541&#xA;Recv:   0.26990  0.56653  0.35465&#xA;Recv:   0.38180  0.61425  0.00000&#xA;Recv: &#xA;Recv: Bed Level Correction Matrix:&#xA;Recv: +0.999994 +0.000000 -0.003561&#xA;Recv: +0.000003 +1.000000 +0.000801&#xA;Recv: +0.003561 -0.000801 +0.999993&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Running the command &lt;code&gt;G29 P3 V4&lt;/code&gt; again, but now with my vernier on the bed (opposite to the side of the origin, on the right side of the bed; vernier under probing points 3 and 4), gives:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Recv: G29 Auto Bed Leveling&#xA;Recv: Bed X: 25.000 Y: 22.000 Z: -0.003&#xA;Recv: Bed X: 109.000 Y: 22.000 Z: -0.050&#xA;Recv: Bed X: 193.000 Y: 22.000 Z: **5.709**&#xA;Recv: Bed X: 193.000 Y: 97.000 Z: **5.892**&#xA;Recv: Bed X: 109.000 Y: 97.000 Z: 0.007&#xA;Recv: Bed X: 25.000 Y: 97.000 Z: 0.039&#xA;Recv: Bed X: 25.000 Y: 172.000 Z: -0.023&#xA;Recv: Bed X: 109.000 Y: 172.000 Z: 0.017&#xA;Recv: Bed X: 193.000 Y: 172.000 Z: -0.329&#xA;Recv: Eqn coefficients: a: 0.02233918 b: -0.01331358 d: 2.30744504&#xA;Recv: Mean of sampled points: 3.45099973&#xA;Recv: &#xA;Recv: Bed Height Topography:&#xA;Recv:    +--- BACK --+&#xA;Recv:    |           |&#xA;Recv:  L |    (+)    | R&#xA;Recv:  E |           | I&#xA;Recv:  F | (-) N (+) | G&#xA;Recv:  T |           | H&#xA;Recv:    |    (-)    | T&#xA;Recv:    |           |&#xA;Recv:    O-- FRONT --+&#xA;Recv:  (0,0)&#xA;Recv:  -1.27376 -1.23426 -1.57986&#xA;Recv:  -1.21205 -1.24414  4.64083&#xA;Recv:  -1.25401 -1.30091  4.45816&#xA;Recv: &#xA;Recv: Corrected Bed Height vs. Bed Topology:&#xA;Recv:   4.05814  2.22162  0.00000&#xA;Recv:   3.12192  1.21381  5.22275&#xA;Recv:   2.08203  0.15910  4.04215&#xA;Recv: &#xA;Recv: Bed Level Correction Matrix:&#xA;Recv: +0.999750 +0.000000 +0.022334&#xA;Recv: +0.000297 +0.999911 -0.013306&#xA;Recv: -0.022332 +0.013309 +0.999662&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the snippets you can see that the topology is printed in the output. You also see the vernier of about 4.5 mm comming back in the matrices. But the 4.5 mm thickness of the vernier is not easily found in the correction matrix!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The answer to your question is that the origin is in the lower left of the matrix, so you need to loosen the origin screw in the first example (this matrix shows you that the bed is highest at the right-back and lowest at the origin at the left-front). Your second example shows that the whole bed is tilted downwards to the front.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-07-06T22:43:42.450" LastActivityDate="2018-07-06T22:43:42.450" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6283" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6281" CreationDate="2018-07-04T21:54:04.870" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a known problem of the Anet A8 display, it is caused by electrical interference. Pressing the middle button will refresh the display.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is prone to happen when doing long prints. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are some reported successes of people inserting ferrite beads or toroidal rings. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No, this is not a firmware issue, this is a hardware issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-07-04T22:19:44.327" LastActivityDate="2018-07-04T22:19:44.327" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6284" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6279" CreationDate="2018-07-05T12:03:19.970" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As far as I can see on the pictures - the main board shall be capable to upload Marlin software and run smoothly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you connect power and PC/Mac over the USB connection, then using &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.pronterface.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Pronterface&lt;/a&gt; you can validate mechanical movements of the printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As the rods looks a bit dusty - please clean them with a soft cloth and degreaser to avoid jamming.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have any issues you could flash a new version of the firmware - please use &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/5849/9730&quot;&gt;this answer&lt;/a&gt;, to the question, &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/5848/how-to-upload-firmware-to-reprap-printer&quot;&gt;How to upload firmware to reprap printer?&lt;/a&gt;, as a guide to how to upload firmware to the printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9730" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-07-05T14:20:45.007" LastActivityDate="2018-07-05T14:20:45.007" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6285" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6279" CreationDate="2018-07-05T13:13:16.513" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is an old 3D printer that looks a lot like the &lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/wiki/Mendel&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Mendel&lt;/a&gt; or a simpler remix of the Mendel (the &lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/wiki/Prusa_Mendel&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Prusa Mendel&lt;/a&gt;). I think this is a Mendel you have obtained, it was released in October 2009.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a printer type from the early days, a lot about these printers can be found now that you know the type. These old types can be constructed from printed parts and hardware store materials. Nowadays, metals like steel and aluminium sheets or aluminium profiles are more commonly used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-07-05T13:20:43.230" LastActivityDate="2018-07-05T13:20:43.230" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6286" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6277" CreationDate="2018-07-05T13:38:37.007" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;An additional suggestion: after levelling with sensors or mechanically as in Oscar's great answer, verify both the level and the Z-zero by printing a single-layer pattern such as a few concentric squares or circles.  Inspect to verify that no location is too high (material fails to extrude) or too low (material doesn't adhere, or appears much thicker than elsewhere).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By doing this you can avoid setting up a multi-hour print only to discover a 'bad corner' or some such.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2191" LastActivityDate="2018-07-05T13:38:37.007" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6287" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5140" CreationDate="2018-07-05T14:00:47.310" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Apparently you require a PRO license for using the command line interface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As of version 1.6 the following command line options are implemented:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Eu81k.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Eu81k.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2018-07-05T14:00:47.310" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6288" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6279" CreationDate="2018-07-05T16:35:35.013" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here are some further details on:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The control board, and;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The stepper motors&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Control board&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The electronics board has this marking:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ui1WV.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;EJE Electronics Gubbel Engineering&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ui1WV.png&quot; alt=&quot;EJE Electronics Gubbel Engineering&quot; title=&quot;EJE Electronics Gubbel Engineering&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;EJE Electronics Gubbels Engineering&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The serial number is &lt;code&gt;0070-003&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to this site &lt;a href=&quot;https://wiki.xinchejian.com/wiki/Mendel_Reprap&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Xinchejian First Mendel V2 Reprap&lt;/a&gt; the board is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Gen6 Electronics, with AT Mega 644p processor (PCB EJE Electronics, Gubbels Engineering - mendel-parts.com)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems to be this board (the serial numbers match):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dccKv.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Gen6_PCB_final_batch&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dccKv.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Gen6_PCB_final_batch&quot; title=&quot;Gen6_PCB_final_batch&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Information on this board can be found here: &lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/wiki/Generation_6_Electronics&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Generation 6 Electronics&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Generation 6, or Gen6, can be described as a dedicated, Plug-&amp;amp;-Play, single board solution for FFF/FDM 3D Printers. It is designed to be professionally manufactured, with many small surface mount components, as opposed to Generation 7 which is designed to be printed on a Mendel(among other design goals).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Another major difference with Gen6 electronics is that they use Texas Instruments DRV8811 chips to drive the stepper motors. This means they require firmware modifications from the normal Polulu-based electronics which use Allegro A4983 chips.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It goes on to say:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Benefits of this Design&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;These electronics are a single board solution, so you don't need all those cables and one thick sheet and 4 reprap parts less.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;strike&gt;However, the thick sheet does add a fair amount of rigidity.&lt;/strike&gt; @$@#?? the bottom thick sheet (big one) doesnt add&#xA;  much rigidity, the front one is used for stiffness of the frame, not&#xA;  the bottom one.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;It has a standard USB connection (USB A&gt;B cable needed)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;It uses micro-stepping (1/8) for quieter operation.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;It is cheaper than for example Makerbot's version of the RepRap Generation 3 electronics.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;It uses small standard Molex connectors for motors, heater, and optos.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;The pcb of the optos are integrated, so you only need the optos on cables with 5way Molex connectors&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Hardware Features&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;on-board USB-RS232 convertor&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Integrated hardware for driving one extruder (stepper, heater and thermistor)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;RS485 bus connector with the possibility to link through the extruder step and dir signals&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Integrated hardware for driving H21LOB or TCST2103 slotted optosensors&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;High input voltage range: 12-24Vdc&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Use of standard connectors with easy and clean installation&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Debug LEDs for power, communication and heater output&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Reset button&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Specifications&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Dimensions 110x60mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Mounting grid: 100x50mm (4x M3)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Input voltage 12-24Vdc&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;On-board controller: ATmega 644p (Atmel Corp.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;RS485 connector: RJ45&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Heat output: MOSFET output, 4A&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Thermistors input: 100K thermistor&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a lot more information on that page, including information about the power supply, USB, End stops, Heaters, Motors, Firmware, etc. I suggest that you read it fully, in order to understand the board's functionality. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Stepper Motors&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The stepper's model number can be seen here:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ozDOL.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Stepper serial number&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ozDOL.png&quot; alt=&quot;Stepper serial number&quot; title=&quot;Stepper serial number&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The stepper's model number is &lt;code&gt;SY42STH47-1683B&lt;/code&gt;,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;which is a &lt;em&gt;NEMA-17 High Torque Hybrid Stepper Motor&lt;/em&gt;, with these specifications:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Step angle: 1.8°&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Number of phase: 2&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rated voltage: 2.8 V&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rated current: 1.68 A&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Holding torque: 4.4 kg/cm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This would be, at least, part of the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.zappautomation.co.uk/images/SY42STH47-1684B-060047076.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;datasheet&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5nZ07.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Stepper specification&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5nZ07.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Stepper specification&quot; title=&quot;Stepper specification&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are a couple of links, should you need replacements (~€17):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.poscope.com/product/nema-17-sy42sth47-1684b-stepper-motor/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;NEMA-17 (SY42STH47-1684B Stepper Motor) - Polabs)&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.zappautomation.co.uk/sy42sth47-1684b-high-torque-hybrid-stepper-motors.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;SY42STH47-1684B High Torque Hybrid Stepper Motors&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This stepper motor is also listed on the &lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/wiki/NEMA_17_Stepper_motor&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;RepRapWiki - NEMA 17&lt;/a&gt; page:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Model           Holding Torque  Rated voltage       Shaft   Step angle  Motor length    Rated current   Inductance&#xA;SY42STH47-1684B   43.1 N·cm        2.8 V       Ø 5 mm double    1.8°        48 mm            n/a            n/a&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4762" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-07-05T19:44:46.710" LastActivityDate="2018-07-05T19:44:46.710" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6289" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6290" CreationDate="2018-07-05T17:35:22.243" Score="7" ViewCount="3638" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm working on building a tool to generate G-code (a simpler slicer), and I'm trying to calculate how much filament should be extruded per movement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a standard calculation for this? Something like:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;layer height * flow % * extruder diameter * distance &#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How does Ultimaker Cura calculate this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11259" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-01-09T19:52:57.977" LastActivityDate="2023-02-14T16:02:06.267" Title="How is the E argument calculated for a given G1 command?" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|extrusion|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6290" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6289" CreationDate="2018-07-05T18:32:22.187" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;Basically, all movements are (small) straight lines, the volume of a straight line is easily calculated as you already guessed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To calculate the volume to be extruded you multiply the following parameters:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the layer height &lt;em&gt;(h)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;flow modifier (e.g. as percentage) &lt;em&gt;(SF)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;extruder nozzle diameter &lt;em&gt;(d&lt;sub&gt;n&lt;/sub&gt;)&lt;/em&gt; (or extruder line width if different from nozzle diameter)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;distance of the straight line &lt;em&gt;(l)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With this volume you can calculate how much filament you need to extrude. To get the length (thus the length defined by the &lt;code&gt;E&lt;/code&gt; parameter), divide the obtained volume by surface area of your used filament by:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;π * (filament radius)&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; or alternatively π /4 * (filament diameter)&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; = (π /4 * d&lt;sub&gt;f&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To sum up, the value of E is given by:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$$ E_{value} = \frac{h \times {SF} \times d_{n} \times l}{\frac{\pi}{4}d_{f}^2} = \frac{4 \times h \times {SF} \times d_{n} \times l}{\pi \times d_{f}^2} $$&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2023-02-14T16:02:06.267" LastActivityDate="2023-02-14T16:02:06.267" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6291" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-07-06T00:02:36.563" Score="4" ViewCount="1345" Body="&lt;p&gt;A little backstory to help you understand the situation.  I put the 3D printer together and turned it on and everything seemed fine until I started printing.  It didn't even get the first layer down when the screen reset and so did the print.  I didn't think anything of it, I just went back and tried again, but this time right when I pressed start, the fuse blew.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have done some research on the issue and haven't had any luck besides recommendations for putting in a secondary fuse before the power supply (which I will be doing in the near future).  As for now though, my plan is to just replace the power supply fuse if possible.  I went to the hardware store and picked up a Bussmann T5AL/250V fuse (photo attached below) and before I put it in, I just want to make sure this is the correct fuse and I'm not going to kill the entire printer this time.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Picture showing the internals of the power supply unit:&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fYGTI.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;PSU, cover removed showing fuse&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fYGTI.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;PSU, cover removed showing fuse&quot; title=&quot;PSU, cover removed showing fuse&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Picture of the fuse I bought:&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QU6dU.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Picture of the fuse I bought&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QU6dU.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Picture of the fuse I bought&quot; title=&quot;Picture of the fuse I bought&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any and all help is very much appreciated because as you might expect, I'm not too happy with the printer so far.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11265" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-07-06T09:39:01.913" LastActivityDate="2018-07-06T09:39:01.913" Title="Anet A8 (Prusa i3) Power Supply Fuse" Tags="|anet-a8|switching-power-supply|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6292" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6291" CreationDate="2018-07-06T03:16:11.713" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The fuse rating is same as described on the board - so that shall be no issue with it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;My main concern is why the fuse is down?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Was there a short-circuit? As this is mains fuse - that suggest a big-bang, so, please check carefully hot-end and bed heater connections before restarting the device, to avoid replacing another fuse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9730" LastActivityDate="2018-07-06T03:16:11.713" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6293" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-07-06T06:07:24.030" Score="3" ViewCount="339" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been using my Anet A2 for about a year.  A few problems but none that I haven't been able to resolve. Today it suddenly stopped auto homing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using the position commands I can advance the X and Y positively but not negatively (after I manually re-position the carriages before turning the printer on).  Also the Y stepper motor makes an unusual noise and it will over advance the Y axis. This behavior was preceded by a feed fault. The print started fine but the stepper motor stopped feeding shortly after the print started.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am printing from an SD card as I always have. I changed SD cards thinking it might be a connection problem and I checked the G-code and all the commands including the E commands seem to be there. I have checked all the electrical connections - they seem to be fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any suggestions to solve this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11267" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2019-08-31T08:45:07.773" LastActivityDate="2019-08-31T08:45:07.773" Title="Anet A2 3D printer suddenly will not home X and Y" Tags="|extrusion|axis|anet-a2|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6294" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6291" CreationDate="2018-07-06T06:55:38.613" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;To add to the answer of &lt;em&gt;@profesor79&lt;/em&gt; (which you &lt;strong&gt;absolutely need to address first&lt;/strong&gt; (find the cause why it blew); else the fuse might blow again), you might be interested in installing fuse clamps. As &lt;em&gt;@fred_dot_u&lt;/em&gt; mentions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;use caution when soldering leads to the fuse that you do not de-solder&#xA;  the internal fuse from the caps&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;is that if you incorrectly solder the fuse, you might de-solder the caps, soldering the clamps is easier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Example of fuse clamp:&lt;/em&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HwRFQ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HwRFQ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;5 mm fuse clamp&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2018-07-06T06:55:38.613" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6295" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6293" CreationDate="2018-07-06T07:24:55.603" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have experienced this a few times, usually this is related to the end stops.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your end stops are somehow triggered (e.g. short circuit or cable broken; depending on the setup), the steppers will not home (as they think they are at the limits already) and only advance forward. Please look into the end stops of X and Y. Use a multi-meter to measure them and trigger them manually.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively hook up your printer to your computer with a USB cable and download a printer utility/application that can interact with the printer (e.g. Pronterface, Repetier-host, OctoPrint, etc.) and go to the terminal interface and send the &lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#M119:_Get_Endstop_Status&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;M119&lt;/a&gt; instruction to see the status of the end stops.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-07-06T12:37:22.380" LastActivityDate="2018-07-06T12:37:22.380" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6296" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6293" CreationDate="2018-07-06T10:41:23.040" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Please check connections to the &lt;code&gt;Y&lt;/code&gt; stepper first.&#xA;You could replace cable from 'X' axis to test the connection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The noise from stepper mostly means a disconnected pin (broken connection), an obstacle on the path (check and clean if any) and a worse-case-scenario a broken stepper driver, so you could swap steppers (just by connecting the cable) to see where is the reason. If 'Y' stepper works fine when connected to another axis slot (excluding extruder ones) then driver need a replacement. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9730" LastActivityDate="2018-07-06T10:41:23.040" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6297" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1258" CreationDate="2018-07-06T10:44:28.537" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've tried this material (8 mm thickness) for a Prusa i3 clone of my own design but needed to abandon using it as it doesn't allow to be cut by laser easily on my friends laser cutting machine (not a hobby laser cutting machine, it is his business). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;HDPE requires lower speed than cutting Plexiglas or Acrylic resulting in more heat input and a small top cut and a large bottom cut width leaving the edges far from being straight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2018-07-06T10:44:28.537" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6298" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6299" CreationDate="2018-07-06T11:30:53.763" Score="9" ViewCount="5152" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the creation of the process of printing my own bearings to reduce noise, minimize play/tolerances and size the bearings to the actual size of the application, I obtained a spool of &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Polyoxymethylene&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Polyoxymethylene&lt;/a&gt; (POM) or also known as Acetal or Delrin. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/erVOB.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/erVOB.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Spool of POM filament&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This polymer is a thermoplastic polymer that is frequently used in engineering precision parts that require high stiffness, low friction and dimensional stability. It has been chosen for these material properties to be used as bearing material for linear guide rails.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;This image shows an example of the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2476782&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;application&lt;/a&gt; of customized igus&amp;reg; bearing that is as long as the housing part it is going to fit in:&lt;/em&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QnKHc.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QnKHc.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;customized igus&amp;reg; bearing&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Prints frequently get knocked over as it does not stick well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do I get POM filament to stick to the build plate?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-07-11T07:32:46.040" LastActivityDate="2019-02-14T19:54:45.027" Title="POM filament not sticking to the build plate?" Tags="|filament|heated-bed|adhesion|pom|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6299" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6298" CreationDate="2018-07-06T11:30:53.763" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;Great material but very hard to print as it does not stick easy to the build plate as it has a low friction coefficient to grip onto the heated bed. Also, the material sets quite fast, once the filament leaves the nozzle, it soon hardens so you need to be careful with retraction and Z-hop (leaving small peaks that will be hit later by the nozzle knocking over your print). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My experience with printing this material is based on printing with an Ultimaker 3 Extended (on glass) using a modified material profile (based on Nylon). It is printed at 240 °C (+5 °C for the first layer), no usage of the part cooling fan (if you do use cooling, the layers will not adhere well), a heated bed temperature of 80 °C, and a slow printing speed of 40 mm/s (20 mm/s for the first and second layer).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Ultimaker 3 Extended with printed POM bearing:&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bznZ5.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bznZ5.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Ultimaker 3 Extended with printed POM bearing&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First thing I learned is to use quite large brim's (the image above shows a rather small one for this short bearing, for the longer bearings the brim size was more than doubled, e.g. 20 mm), brims enlarge the surface area so that there is more material that grabs hold of the heated bed. Also ensure to get it to stick long enough is heating the bed to 80 °C after smearing ABS juice (ABS dissolved in acetone) and spraying a &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Polyvinyl_alcohol&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;PVA&lt;/a&gt; based spray over the dried ABS juice layer (3DLAC has been used, but other hairsprays or even gluesticks may work as well, as long as there is PVA in it). The temperature of 80 °C is chosen as this is the temperature where my PVA spray has the most tack/sticky-ness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other solutions like heating the bed up to 110 °C using 3DLAC or specifically designed sprays for higher temperature like e.g. Dimafix did not work well for me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that complete infill may also give problems as filling out the whole surface area sometimes creates excess material that curls up, which is an easy target to be hit by the nozzle on the next layer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;This image shows an &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2476782&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;example&lt;/a&gt; of using the printed customized igus® POM bearing that is as long as the mount height:&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HXXJE.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HXXJE.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Prusa clone X-axis mount with inserted custom bearing&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Collection of POM printed bearings:&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HpCBE.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HpCBE.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Collection of POM printed bearings&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Another &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2520976&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;application&lt;/a&gt; of POM bearings:&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4B6Dn.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4B6Dn.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Bowden E3D mount&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;CoreXY hot end carriage&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/s0Sq2.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/s0Sq2.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Hypercube Evolution hot end carriage&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IFtkN.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IFtkN.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Hypercube Evolution X-Y mount bearing&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-07-11T07:32:00.157" LastActivityDate="2018-07-11T07:32:00.157" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6300" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2018-07-06T13:26:05.490" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Polyoxymethylene&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Polyoxymethylene&lt;/a&gt; (POM) is also known by other commercial names e.g. Acetal or Delrin.  It is a thermoplastic polymer that is frequently used in engineering precision parts that require a high stiffness, low friction and dimensional stability. Typically this material is used for injection molding of high strength parts (like gears for instance). Its low friction coefficient makes it very suitable to use as bearing material and simultaneously makes it hard to print with respect to get it to stick to the build plate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-07-06T14:25:15.437" LastActivityDate="2018-07-06T14:25:15.437" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6301" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2018-07-06T13:26:05.490" Score="0" Body="Polyoxymethylene (POM) is a thermoplastic polymer that is frequently used in engineering precision parts that require a high stiffness, low friction and dimensional stability." OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-07-06T14:25:18.817" LastActivityDate="2018-07-06T14:25:18.817" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6302" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2018-07-06T13:50:13.570" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="4762" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-07-06T13:50:13.570" LastActivityDate="2018-07-06T13:50:13.570" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6303" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2018-07-06T13:50:13.570" Score="0" Body="For questions relating to medical usage of 3D Printed objects, including printing materials. Differs from the health tag, as health deals with the general health and safety aspects of printing, rather than medical applications of 3D printing." OwnerUserId="4762" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-07-06T13:50:13.570" LastActivityDate="2018-07-06T13:50:13.570" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6304" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2018-07-06T13:51:13.133" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="4762" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-07-06T13:51:13.133" LastActivityDate="2018-07-06T13:51:13.133" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6305" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2018-07-06T13:51:13.133" Score="0" Body="For questions relating to the application of a graphical design to a 3D printed surface" OwnerUserId="4762" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-07-06T13:51:13.133" LastActivityDate="2018-07-06T13:51:13.133" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6306" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-07-06T14:46:16.653" Score="5" ViewCount="1046" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an incoming project and the only 3D printer available to me is the TronXY X1. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the question is: Can it handle at least four days of continuous load or should I search for an alternate solution? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;I don't want to damage (my only) 3D printer for this project.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11264" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2018-07-07T17:55:10.200" LastActivityDate="2018-07-10T18:27:14.687" Title="Can 3D printers, such as a TronXY X1, handle 24/7 projects?" Tags="|print-quality|tronxy-x1|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6307" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-07-06T15:56:34.213" Score="3" ViewCount="337" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you can help me with troubleshooting the artefact shown in the attached photo that would be great. It only happens when I print the Benchy parallel to the X axis and when I print parallel to Y axis it prints just fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Notes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;3D printer: TronXY X1&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Filament: PLA&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Extruder temp: 195°C, 200°C, 205°C - doesn't matter same results.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Slicer: Ideamaker&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/coaik.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Benchy objects showing printing artefact&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/coaik.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Benchy objects showing printing artefact&quot; title=&quot;Benchy objects showing printing artefact&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11264" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2018-07-07T17:55:01.127" LastActivityDate="2018-07-07T17:55:01.127" Title="Artefacts when printing parallel to X axis" Tags="|print-quality|tronxy-x1|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6308" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6307" CreationDate="2018-07-06T16:08:06.817" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a TronXY X1 myself. This kind of artifacts appear along the X-Axis as it is a cantilever design - and if not properly secured, will start to osctilate when moving sharply. This can be fixed in several ways:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;print slower. By making the movement changes less abrupt, the oscilation can be reduced.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;stiffen the X on the Z. Often, the X1 has a somewhat wobbly X-Axis. To fix this, someone calling themselves FabianFriethjoph did design a 'bracket' that is intended to keep the wheels aligned and under a little tension. &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2275654&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2275654&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastActivityDate="2018-07-06T16:08:06.817" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6309" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5748" CreationDate="2018-07-06T16:16:59.573" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Every 3D printer or machine tool that is commanded through G-code must interpret the G-code in terms of the particular mechanism.  Even a Cartesian machine in which there is a clear X, Y, and Z axis, each with independent actuators, interprets the G-code and adjusts for the scale factors, considers the current kinetic energy and the implicit changes in the kinetic energy, and constructs a move plan to implement the G-code.  This involves considering the velocity limits, the acceleration, the jerk, and possible higher derivatives.  This plan is passed to the motor drivers, and the mechanism responds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A delta mechanism is really the same.  The difference is that there is not a distinct X, Y, and Z axis, even though the commands in the G-code are given in Cartesian coordinates.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My second 3D printer is one I designed using standard hot ends and extruders.  I'm using the reprap firmware, and haven't adequately studied the kinematics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My first milling machine, however, was a delta machine with 3 additional degrees of freedom -- a machine style generically called a parallel-kinematics inverted Stewart platform.  In my kinematics code, I plan a movement by breaking the Cartesian command into small enough segments that the non-linearity of the 6-axis movement space never exceeds the tiny error of the actuators.  I developed a CPU-intensive but effective calibration system that estimates the errors that I introduced when building it, and so the mechanical performance is good enough.  The machine itself is a 5'x6'x6' frame of welded steel, so it is pretty dimensionally stable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A delta 3D printer is simpler because there is no control over the roll, pitch, and yaw of the hot end.  Unfortunately, not being able to control also means that you are subject to whatever errors are introduced in the construction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;Bed-leveling&quot; of a delta printer consists of estimating some of the machine-unique parameters and compensating for their effects: cup, bowl, ripple, and tilt.  Applying these adjustments is done in the kinematics code as a further modification of the G-code Cartesian parameters to the leg-space delta mechanism motions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;TL;DR&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The G-code is not modified, but the parameters expressed in the G-code are adjusted and interpreted in light of the machine kinematics so that the intention of the G-code can be faithfully followed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2082" LastActivityDate="2018-07-06T16:16:59.573" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6310" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2018-07-06T17:31:15.037" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.anet3d.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Anet&lt;/a&gt; A2, a clone of the Prusa i3,  uses aluminium profiles for the frame. It is available as a kit to build yourself, is an affordable low-cost desktop 3D printer made by Anet, a manufacturer based in China. This kit is easy to assemble and a cheap entry level printer. It features a heated bed, a Bowden extruder goes up to 250 °C and an LCD for interfacing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="150" LastEditDate="2018-10-25T09:34:54.783" LastActivityDate="2018-10-25T09:34:54.783" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6311" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2018-07-06T17:31:15.037" Score="0" Body="This tag should be used for specific questions about specific issues for the Anet A2 printers." OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-10-03T06:20:36.120" LastActivityDate="2018-10-03T06:20:36.120" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6312" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3234" CreationDate="2018-07-06T17:34:23.863" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;I posted an edit to the &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/3234/troubleshooting-filament-slip-on-makerbot-5#answer-3237&quot;&gt;top answer&lt;/a&gt; in hopes that it will get changed for anyone looking at this post in the future but in case it gets rejected here is the actual issue and fix.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;If you just want the solution skip down to the bolded text.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I came across this post while browsing for resources to document my own experiences with &quot;filament slip&quot; in Makerbots and every suggested solution was wrong and potentially malicious to the machine. I'm an expert in the field and have taken apart and fixed dozens of machines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First a bit about the anatomy of the extruder so you can understand better. The way that the toolhead detects slips is with an encoder wheel placed above the actual drive mechanism, not attached to it or the idler whatsoever. It's also not even tensioned against the filament at all. The filament is &quot;held&quot; in place with an injection molded piece of plastic that attaches to the rest of the extruder body just by the pin connectors on the internal PCB and a small positioning groove on both sides of the case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The encoder wheel and its sensor are very unlikely to wear but what happens to every older head is that either the casing or the injection molded part that holds the filament wears and the encoder wheel no longer presses firmly against the filament which causes the filament to move without turning the encoder. The encoder then not moving while the drive gear is, reads a filament slip and sends an error message even though nothing is mechanically or functionally wrong. The wear is also not clearly visible even on close inspection. This problem seems to arise in every Smart Extruder+ once it reaches 150-200 printing hours.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Actual Fix&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;As a temporary fix you can jam a piece of foam inside the right side of the extruder to push the poorly secured injection molded part against the encoder wheel. This will make the filament slip error much less frequent but won't completely solve the issue. I'm working on a 3D printed insert that should hold the part more securely, at least until the printed part wears after an additional 100 or so printing hours. I'm also working on a 3D printed replacement for the extruder body and some of the injection molded interior parts. It aims to be a drop in replacement which should greatly improve both reliability and functionality. If I can remember once I'm finished I'll come back and post a link here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11269" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-07-06T21:36:57.960" LastActivityDate="2018-07-06T21:36:57.960" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6313" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6306" CreationDate="2018-07-06T18:58:09.187" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know that this is a bit &lt;em&gt;wishy-washy&lt;/em&gt; but some can, some can't.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The TronXY has a bit of an issue with the power supply to start with. The &lt;em&gt;power brick&lt;/em&gt; is a (&lt;em&gt;reportedly&lt;/em&gt;) bit suspect, for long jobs, see &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/5798/ramps-1-4-with-a-power-brick/6171#6171&quot;&gt;my answer&lt;/a&gt; to the question, &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/5798/ramps-1-4-with-a-power-brick&quot;&gt;Ramps 1.4 with a power brick&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It could be worth upgrading the power supply to a higher current rated PSU (20&amp;nbsp;A - 35&amp;nbsp;A), with an aluminium enclosure, i.e. those PSUs which are marketed as LED power supplies, such as this, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Tronxy-3D-printer-accessoires-power-supply-240W-AC110-220V-DC-12V-20A-for-3D-print-DIY/32723053329.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Tronxy 3D printer accessoires power supply 240W AC110/220V DC 12V 20A for 3D print DIY kit part&lt;/a&gt; on AliExpress. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then you can add your heatbed (that you refer to in your other question), without worrying.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It all depends on how critical your 24/7 project is. Is it a serious production run or just a hobby-like project that is a bit of a fun endurance test? How important is it that the print run goes without a hitch? Would a power supply failure mid-print be catastrophic or easily shrugged off? Would the delay incurred by trying to find a replacement power brick actually matter that much?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A simple analogy would be driving from Germany to Mauritania across the Western Sahara, with some serious, and urgent medical supplies. You could either either buy a well maintained, and carefully run in, Mercedes, which will most likely last the entire journey and then some, &lt;em&gt;or&lt;/em&gt; you could buy a clapped out old Lada, with 500000 km on the clock, with the vain hope of getting there. The Mercedes would seem to be the better option.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, if you are delivering a &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dundee_cake&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Dundee cake&lt;/a&gt; for an Aunt, which is neither time critical nor particularly important and you aren't even sure that your Aunt will be at home when you get there, then maybe the Lada will suffice.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Into which category does your 24/7 print project fall in? It sounds like the former.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Apart from the power supply, i.e. w.r.t. the stepper motors and hotend, unfortunately, I don't know the answer and can not answer your question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4762" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-07-10T12:29:06.310" LastActivityDate="2018-07-10T12:29:06.310" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6314" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6273" CreationDate="2018-07-06T22:50:07.770" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Using Repetier Host V2.1.2 and slicing with Slic3r (or with CuraEngine), there is an &quot;edit Gcode&quot; button under the Print Preview tab.  It is located at the top right of the screen.  With that button you can access, examine and change the Gcode of the project you are working on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11267" LastActivityDate="2018-07-06T22:50:07.770" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6315" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7007" CreationDate="2018-07-07T08:49:43.057" Score="5" ViewCount="3649" Body="&lt;p&gt;I came across several issues which seem to have been lowered.&#xA;Firstly, I changed from a 0.4 to a 0.5 mm nozzle. Because of the backpressure I was not able to print my PETG (Colorfabb XT filament) below 270°C which caused unresolvable oozing. After that I was able to extrude till 230°C.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The left print below shows the result. I disassembled the hotend, there was no leak or whatsoever. Maybe it was too cold for printing. However, the temperature displayed was 250°C. Then I replaced the cheap aluminum heat block with a copper alloy based one. After that my PIDs did not work anymore. I had to greatly enhance the d-term, otherwise there was a big overshoot. Guess there was a serious heat conducting issue with the old BQ hotend. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uxd43.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Prints using BQ Alu Heatblock (left) and Copper alloy heatblock (right)&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uxd43.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Prints using BQ Alu Heatblock (left) and Copper alloy Heatblock (right)&quot; title=&quot;Prints using BQ Alu Heatblock (left) and Copper alloy heatblock (right)&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway, from there it became better. However, I noticed that I still have severe underextrusion after travel moves (second piece, first picture, first piece, second picture). I use Cura, so I activated retraction with the feature to prime after travel moves. I got the wall closed just after 0.35 mm³. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Oj1Ey.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Prints using Copper alloy Heatblock (left)&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Oj1Ey.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Prints using Copper alloy Heatblock (left)&quot; title=&quot;Prints using Copper alloy Heatblock (left)&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My Question: Is this underextrusion after travel moves normal for PETG/XT? I did not discover such behavior with PLA or ABS in the past. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Current Site Advice: Despite the weight, copper heat blocks seem to be worth the upgrade. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10847" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2022-10-05T11:26:27.013" LastActivityDate="2022-10-05T11:26:27.013" Title="Underextrusion after travel moves with PETG/Colorfab XT" Tags="|extrusion|colorfabb-xt|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6316" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6518" CreationDate="2018-07-07T09:31:29.617" Score="4" ViewCount="3930" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm thinking of buying an &lt;a href=&quot;http://s.aliexpress.com/z6jMvy6j&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Arduino WEMOS&lt;/a&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; as I am tired with SD card fiddling. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vKi4r.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Arduino WEMOS&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vKi4r.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Arduino WEMOS&quot; title=&quot;Arduino WEMOS&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As the ESP8266 chip has 32&amp;nbsp;Mb (~4&amp;nbsp;MB) flash memory, I am hoping to be able to push most of the G-code files over the Wi-Fi. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was trying OctoPi but, having electronic noise issues, the transmission was not stable. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has anyone tried WEMOS with RAMPS? Is the serial communication stable between ESP and Arduino? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; Product description is &lt;em&gt;Mega +WiFi R3 ATmega2560+ESP8266 (32Mb memory), USB-TTL CH340G. Compatible for Arduino Mega, NodeMCU, WeMos ESP8266&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9730" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-07-31T19:04:42.463" LastActivityDate="2019-01-02T15:25:16.297" Title="Arduino WEMOS and RAMPS" Tags="|diy-3d-printer|ramps-1.4|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="8" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6317" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6306" CreationDate="2018-07-07T12:43:53.283" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have the same Printer - a TronXY X1, and I feel confident that with a little upgrade here and there, it can handle long prints without problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The most needed upgrade is a quality power brick. Mine died after some month. For replacement I have chosen a 12&amp;nbsp;V/10&amp;nbsp;A output one of a reputable supplier with warranty and it runs without any warming since.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then, I did upgrade the hotend itself. The built in hotend can become leaky under long prints. I did fix this by exchanging it for a genuine e3d-v6 lite. Yes, only a lite, because this machine can only print PLA anyways for a lack of a heated bed - and there is little size one can add to the machine's print surface due to design limitations (one can only extend Y and Z to some degree without generating problems).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tighteners for the X on the Z-axis and the bed are a very good idea to make the printer a little more reliable, resulting in less misprints or lost prints at upper heights due to wobble or layer shift.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Generally, I have printed some quite long prints (several 16 hours, one 28 hours), and with a reliable hotend and good filament feed (in once case the spool got jammed by a pen falling into it), the TronXY X1 did do its work quite good. Mind, that I tend to always print at 0.1 mm layer hight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do not know how 4 days of continuous load would work out, but my X1 has some summed up 2 weeks of prints under its belt by now, so... I &lt;em&gt;think&lt;/em&gt; it can do this, but I would give it a general check (for example inspect if the bed is still settled tight) between prints.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2018-07-10T18:27:14.687" LastActivityDate="2018-07-10T18:27:14.687" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6318" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1085" CreationDate="2018-07-07T18:14:58.817" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've found that this happens on my prints on the first layer when it's a really big layer. If you have the initial fan speed on something really low, and it prints for a long time (ie giant first layer) it will twist up the filament. Thanks for the answers, I was confused too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11273" LastActivityDate="2018-07-07T18:14:58.817" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6319" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6306" CreationDate="2018-07-07T20:48:22.800" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Rather than investing up front in a new power supply, consider printing with the equipment you already have; knowing in advance that the power supply may fail, but proceeding with the confidence that you can replace it if it does. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This approach won’t cost you anything to try. If it fails, it will result in only a brief outage until you replace it. If it doesn’t fail, you saved the cost of a power supply. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7197" LastActivityDate="2018-07-07T20:48:22.800" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6320" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6306" CreationDate="2018-07-07T21:30:33.657" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The answer is yes, with a little of extra care maintaining your hardware cold as possible, when I started to print I mounted some PC fans where I notice that the heat will be a problem. For my printer I placed one small fan to Z motors and other one pointing to the power source connectors; I could print for 2 weeks easily. I´m using a PC power source, so this power supply has his own fan.&#xA;Now I've calibrated the Z motors current, so now keeps a low temperature, the power connectors were soldered instead using the loose connectors, so now I'm using a fan for the whole shield just for extra caution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4454" LastActivityDate="2018-07-07T21:30:33.657" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6321" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6322" CreationDate="2018-07-08T08:15:58.327" Score="5" ViewCount="2337" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Bowden extruder in my printer setup. Everything works great except this effect which must be related with retraction and is generated on Z layer change:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vasJH.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Print layer effect&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vasJH.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Print layer effect&quot; title=&quot;Print layer effect&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The model itself, is printed in one layer perimeter / outline shell, with 0.25&amp;nbsp;mm layer height with the following settings:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/D66PI.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Printer settings&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/D66PI.png&quot; alt=&quot;Printer settings&quot; title=&quot;Printer settings&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10230" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2018-09-16T12:37:34.023" LastActivityDate="2023-05-19T22:22:42.580" Title="What do you call this effect in 3D printing and how can I remove it?" Tags="|print-quality|bowden|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6322" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6321" CreationDate="2018-07-08T09:47:34.183" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;What you see on the outer surface is called &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.simplify3d.com/preventing-blobs-on-3d-print/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;zits and blobs&lt;/a&gt;&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These small imperfections you experience are &quot;zits&quot; (larger ones are referred to as blobs). As the extruder needs to start and stop as it moves around during a print, it is difficult to create a seamless joint, so the over-extruded filament represents the location where the extruder started (or ended) printing a section of the outer perimeter of your print model. Sometimes it returns to the same spot in a single extrusion run, in other cases the perimeter is constructed of multiple sections.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is possible to do something to minimize the effects depending on the slicer you use, but the general solution is to prevent too much plastic being deposited at either the start or the end of that seam. E.g. incorrect retraction settings may cause too much plastic to be extruded at the start, and pressure build-up in the nozzle may cause an excess of plastic to be extruded, both lead to the imperfections you experience. First you have to find out which of the two effects is happening with your prints. Once identified, you can play with settings like retraction, priming, and coasting to counteract on these imperfections. A more detailed description can be found &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/#blobs-and-zits&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Edit&lt;/strong&gt;:&#xA;Please read the addition posted in the comment by @Trish; the comment describes that this may also be related to over-extrusion!&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-07-08T21:53:21.453" LastActivityDate="2018-07-08T21:53:21.453" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6323" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2018-07-08T11:25:13.133" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Creality Ender 4 is a DIY FDM 3D printer kit which is a part of the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.creality3d.cn/c/ender-series_0033&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Ender Series&lt;/a&gt; made by &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.creality3d.cn&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Shenzhen Creality 3D Technology Co., Ltd&lt;/a&gt;, a manufacturer based in China. More details &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.creality3d.cn/creality3d-ender-4-p00245p1.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4762" LastEditorUserId="4808" LastEditDate="2018-11-19T22:27:37.400" LastActivityDate="2018-11-19T22:27:37.400" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6324" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2018-07-08T11:25:13.133" Score="0" Body="For questions about the Creality Ender 4" OwnerUserId="4762" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-07-08T11:25:13.133" LastActivityDate="2018-07-08T11:25:13.133" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6326" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6328" CreationDate="2018-07-08T16:41:08.080" Score="2" ViewCount="1397" Body="&lt;p&gt;Why does this happen (circled in red), and how can I fix it? It is making my prints come out horrible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not shown in the picture, but the option &quot;Coasting&quot; was Enabled:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Coasting Volume 0.064 mm&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Minimum Volume Before Coasting: 0.8&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Coasting Speed 90%&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/a4sB6.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Rendered G-code view of a sliced model&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/a4sB6.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Rendered G-code view of a sliced model&quot; title=&quot;Rendered G-code view of a sliced model&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11280" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-12-10T06:22:23.993" LastActivityDate="2019-12-10T06:22:23.993" Title="Gaps in Cura's Slicing for Monoprice Select Mini V2" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|slicing|monoprice-select-mini|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6327" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6326" CreationDate="2018-07-08T17:39:34.450" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have had a similar thing happen when slicing a large piece that has - in real life - walls of about 2 cm. By scaling it down to 1.5%, this become less than the wall thickness, and the wall was simply omitted by CURA.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my experience, a model showing gaps &lt;em&gt;can&lt;/em&gt; have in these locations a thickness less than 1 wall.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2018-07-08T19:23:31.417" LastActivityDate="2018-07-08T19:23:31.417" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6328" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6326" CreationDate="2018-07-08T18:33:53.600" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you enable the option &quot;Coasting&quot;, the extruder will follow the extrusion path at the end of switching to the next layer or the next section, but will not deposit any material as it uses the build up pressure in the nozzle to deposit the final bits. This shows up in your G-code representation by empty (non-depositing) gaps (in reality, when fine-tuned correctly, will be filled).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;E.g. sliced without &quot;Coasting&quot; enabled:&lt;/em&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1YJCg.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1YJCg.png&quot; alt=&quot;Print without enabling the coasting option&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;E.g. sliced with &quot;Coasting&quot; enabled:&lt;/em&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SAtyB.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SAtyB.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2018-07-08T18:33:53.600" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6329" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6334" CreationDate="2018-07-08T19:29:03.427" Score="4" ViewCount="151" Body="&lt;p&gt;My first printer is Delta style Kossel clone and I have bad luck with Print In Place (PIP) models, especially with hinges. I suspect that my printer just can't achieve low enough tolerances to make the hinges work. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any tricks I can employ to get better prints for PIP models?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10422" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-07-08T19:46:19.883" LastActivityDate="2018-07-11T11:01:23.300" Title="Print quality of Kossel clone for Print in Place models" Tags="|print-quality|delta|kossel|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6330" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3711" CreationDate="2018-07-08T19:56:41.933" Score="1" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Yes and no&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Yes&lt;/strong&gt;, there are machines, that assemble things from parts. For example, &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/SMT_placement_equipment&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;SMT placement equipment &amp;amp; pick-and-place-machines&lt;/a&gt;. Almost all electronics are made this way. In fact, a lot of items are made by using Pick-and-Place machines in the final assembly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other hand: &lt;strong&gt;No&lt;/strong&gt;, there is no &lt;em&gt;3D-printer&lt;/em&gt;, that works by &lt;em&gt;just&lt;/em&gt; being a P&amp;amp;P machine: it simply is not inside the specifications of additive manufacturing to be &lt;em&gt;just&lt;/em&gt; an assembly machine. That is an &lt;em&gt;assembly&lt;/em&gt; or &lt;em&gt;pick and place&lt;/em&gt; machine, no matter if they call it &lt;em&gt;printing&lt;/em&gt;. It is not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h4&gt;combo machines?&lt;/h4&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I have seen a recent (&lt;strong&gt;2018&lt;/strong&gt;) &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/jfopGYO0r-M?t=488&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;makerfaire video&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DRkF-D0fEbQ&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;a talk&lt;/a&gt; that was showing a prototype of an E3D toolhead swapper, which - in its idea - would allow to &lt;em&gt;combine&lt;/em&gt; a 3D printer with a P&amp;amp;P machine. Their idea is to fully automate the manufacturing process, including adding non-printed parts with grabbers or the like.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;2022 update&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Multi-Tool 3D printers based on the E3D-Toolchanger including a pick-and-place are in &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/pBztvEJJGwA?list=TLPQMTIxMTIwMjKbAChud1cdqg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;small-scale&lt;/a&gt; use in at least one fabrication shop in their prototyping stage.  They also use conductive filaments in conjunction with their setup - but need to compensate for the considerable resistance of conductive filaments.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2022-11-12T22:04:08.830" LastActivityDate="2022-11-12T22:04:08.830" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6331" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6332" CreationDate="2018-07-08T21:07:59.630" Score="5" ViewCount="2056" Body="&lt;p&gt;Waiting for a heatbed to get up to 85˚C for a relatively small part got me wondering why beds aren't hardware/G-code configurable for what area is heated? I'm sure it would be an increase in parts costs and electronics, but it seems that being able to just heat an area a little larger than the part(s) being built would save in time and energy use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11282" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-07-08T21:24:38.273" LastActivityDate="2021-01-27T12:38:11.770" Title="Heatbed with zones?" Tags="|heated-bed|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6332" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6331" CreationDate="2018-07-08T21:39:27.063" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've wondered that myself a while ago and fact is that such beds or silicone heating pads do &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.formbot3d.com/dual-zone-heated-build-plate-and-digital-controller-for-t-rex-2_p0015.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;exist&lt;/a&gt;. Usually these are quite large (and expensive) and usually referred to as &quot;dual zone heat beds/pads&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as energy consumption; less area to heat is faster heat up times (depending on the control) and less energy consumed. For small prints this may be beneficial. The price of such beds are very high, so to break even you would have to print a lot. An alternative to buying would be to &lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/wiki/Etched_heatbed_construction&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;etch your own bed&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-07-08T22:01:01.190" LastActivityDate="2018-07-08T22:01:01.190" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6333" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6174" CreationDate="2018-07-08T22:00:14.193" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently wrapped a LOT of hot PLA around my print head and, as a result, had to remove the kapton tape and the fibreglass insulation that came with it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was reluctant to use fibreglass because of the tissue embedding hazard and the lung hazard (especially on what is effectively an indoor appliance) and kapton tape is very hard to find in Australia.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After some research, I wrapped the print head in 100% wool felt that I bought from a fabric store (be very careful, as most craft felt nowadays is either acrylic, polyester or a poly/wool blend) and then bound it all up with teflon thread tape (plumber's thread tape).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cotton has a scorch temperature of 150 to 200°C, while wool won't scorch until 500 to 600°C, and the teflon tape can handle temperatures between 200 to 300°C.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Did it work? Well I can now put my finger on the outside of the tape after the element has been at 200°C for 10 minutes, and only feel a little warmth. The print head heats up twice as fast, and I can run my massively oversized print cooling fan at 40% rather than the 10% I could use before. There is no odor of anything cooking off either. Success!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11283" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-07-09T03:37:47.687" LastActivityDate="2018-07-09T03:37:47.687" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6334" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6329" CreationDate="2018-07-09T06:48:01.377" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Delta printers are considered to be able to be accurate printers cause of the limited weight in the head (using Bowden extruder setup). The positioning can be very accurate (limited weight, limited overshooting) and because of the limited amount of weight, the print speed can be increased.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.scielo.br/pdf/mr/v20s2/1516-1439-mr-1980-5373-MR-2016-1039.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;interesting paper&lt;/a&gt; has been written on a comparative study between a Cartesian and a Delta machine. The paper concludes that the Delta style printer produces &quot;a better surface finish&quot;. However, I'm a bit skeptical as the images of the Cartesian printed part they have printed are of far less quality I can produce with 2 of my printers. Fact is that Delta machines have no Z-wobble (also called &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.soliwiki.com/Banding&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;banding&lt;/a&gt;) that is a common problem with Prusa i3 style printers for instance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2018-07-09T06:48:01.377" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6335" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6331" CreationDate="2018-07-09T09:04:05.150" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;As the etched version is very impressive (thanks 0scar for that), there are other possibilities to build zones on the bed:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Using &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.aliexpress.com/item/UD-wire-box-6-in-1-with-a1clapton-wire-braided-twisted-ni200-wire-nichromme-wire-for/32666221193.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;resistance wire&lt;/a&gt;;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Using a etched bed with zones.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The challenge with zones is mainly down to:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When and how to switch on/off particular zone;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Temperature control needs to be added to every zone to avoid over/under heat in the particular zone.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This last point brings &lt;em&gt;even more&lt;/em&gt; challenges as that requires a PWM channel and a temp sensor (per zone), so standard RAMPS need some extensions in the wiring.&#xA;One could overcome that using custom G-Code to set on/off zones and a double temp sensor for the main zone to follow the temperature changes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In detail: a dedicated Arduino with PWM outputs that will read the temperature from a secondary temperature sensor in the main zone and follows it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9730" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-07-11T13:21:29.830" LastActivityDate="2018-07-11T13:21:29.830" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6336" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6346" CreationDate="2018-07-09T10:16:53.013" Score="3" ViewCount="2445" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am slicing with Cura and Slic3r and one important thing that I recently took my attention is that cura positions head in start point of the new layer and then lifts the nozzle. That caused my few printouts to fall as they collided with the nozzle. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Slic3r behavior is different: it raises the nozzle in last printed point and then moves to a new layer starting point (which for me is more obvious)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Is there a way to instruct Cura to lift nozzle before it goes to the starting point of a new layer?&lt;/strong&gt; excluding Z-hops.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9730" LastEditorUserId="9730" LastEditDate="2018-07-09T10:39:12.657" LastActivityDate="2018-07-09T20:44:23.013" Title="Cura slicer, enforce Z move before layer change" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|slicing|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6337" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6336" CreationDate="2018-07-09T10:24:58.340" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;To lift the head to prevent the nozzle to tip over your print you could use an option called &lt;code&gt;Z hop&lt;/code&gt; in Cura. Just enter `hop' in the search box on the right side to make those options magically appear (in a recent version of Cura, e.g. version 3.x.x).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other than &lt;code&gt;Z hop&lt;/code&gt; there is no default action, or series of commands, per layer to be specified before the start of the layer. There are 2 other ways to circumvent this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The first is saving you G-code to file and open the file in an advanced text editor (e.g. Notepad++). With a (recorded) macro you can find the words &lt;code&gt;;LAYER:&lt;/code&gt;, which are inserted by Cura before each layer starts, and insert a pre-copied list of commands that set the movement in relative mode, move Z up 2 mm, set into absolute mode again. When the next layer starts the extruder goes to the layer start from a 2 mm rise.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Write a plugin for Cura to post-process (&lt;code&gt;C:\Program Files\Ultimaker Cura x.x\plugins\PostProcessingPlugin\scripts&lt;/code&gt;) the G-code file to inject the code to Z hop before the start of every layer, or a plugin that adds a new option and/or category to the slicer settings sidebar of the GUI.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-07-09T13:51:40.527" LastActivityDate="2018-07-09T13:51:40.527" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6338" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6341" CreationDate="2018-07-09T11:28:59.720" Score="2" ViewCount="238" Body="&lt;p&gt;A member of our hackspace wants to get their 8- and 11- year old kids&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; excited about 3D-printing and CNC cutting and makering in general. We have a weekly open training where people can design and print/CNC/laser an item of their choice like a dogboned box or a two-piece sword and hilt, or a name tag, or whatever. I need a few ideas prepared so we don't spend half our lesson on Thingiverse or in Fusion (more like a quarter)! I'm not a parent and my youngest friend is probably in their twenties.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What we have: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a full bed 1200x1800 mm CNC (preferred, because it's loud and fast)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Prusa mk3&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;cheapo 80W 500x300 mm laser&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fusion 360 based workflow, easy :)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Arduinos and stuff&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ideas we've had: a minecraft creeper, done as a simple-ish box.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&lt;sub&gt;1: the (girls) are not interested in my normal kids' goto, which is: swords, shields. They are interested in: minecraft, dragons, horses. _o_/&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;edit: this is NOT an opinion-gathering post, though there may be more than one &quot;correct&quot; answer.  We need specific applications of 3d printing for a young audience. This collection of answers will be useful to evangelize making to a whole new generation!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11248" LastEditorUserId="11248" LastEditDate="2018-07-17T04:57:14.730" LastActivityDate="2018-07-17T04:57:14.730" Title="Interesting project for a child" Tags="|3d-design|cnc|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="16" ClosedDate="2018-07-09T15:17:45.430" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6339" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6338" CreationDate="2018-07-09T13:14:58.110" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Our local library makerspace holds summer camp for a limited number of lucky attendees, ages from 12-15 and the curriculum has a segment which appears to match your objective.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the case of the Launch Pad Camp, the campers will be using &lt;a href=&quot;http://onshape.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;OnShape&lt;/a&gt; to create a keychain/nametag with text of their choosing. It will be an unremarkable 3mm thick x 35-40 mm wide x 70-80 mm long &quot;plank&quot; with a depressed center (by 1.5mm) and raised text. The mentors of the camp expect to be able to teach these campers how to use the software to perform tasks by rote. I assisted the mentor in the process as she had no idea how to use OnShape. Neither did I, but that never slows me down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another aspect of her camp is that it will (or may) include using &lt;a href=&quot;https://scratch.mit.edu/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Scratch&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bqBBt.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bqBBt.png&quot; alt=&quot;scratch screencap&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and does include using a Scratch based program called &lt;a href=&quot;https://ozoblockly.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Ozoblocky&lt;/a&gt; to interface with &lt;a href=&quot;https://ozobot.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Ozobots&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BmG3q.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BmG3q.png&quot; alt=&quot;ozoblocky screencap&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suggested to her that she could use &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.blockscad3d.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;BlockSCAD&lt;/a&gt; to create the 3D objects, as the interface is nearly identical, and in my opinion, very easy to use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not surprisingly, BlockSCAD has a series of tutorials available on the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xs0a4hzd1Tk&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;YouTube&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.blockscad3d.com/editor/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;editor for BlockSCAD&lt;/a&gt; is browser based removing the requirement to install on every computer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zd5VS.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zd5VS.png&quot; alt=&quot;blockscad editor image&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastActivityDate="2018-07-09T13:14:58.110" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6340" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6338" CreationDate="2018-07-09T14:43:58.850" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;As @fred_dot_u mentioned above, keychains are a simple, personalized item to make.  In terms of interesting projects, things that I found intriguing when I first encountered 3D printing were objects that could not be made by other means, such as those &quot;geared bearings&quot; (&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/search?q=geared%20bearings%203d%20print&amp;amp;tbm=isch&amp;amp;tbo=u&amp;amp;source=univ&amp;amp;sa=X&amp;amp;ved=0ahUKEwjQ9vvpn5LcAhXkKX0KHcqfBLQQsAQITA&amp;amp;biw=1576&amp;amp;bih=820&amp;amp;dpr=1.13&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Google: geared bearings 3d print&lt;/a&gt;).  Given the popularity of figet spinners a while back, they could be an interesting item.  &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt; A captive ball in a box, or three joined rings, can also be set up as a 3D print, and could have the same effect, while being easier for the kids to design. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT:  Some links to versions of items along the above lines.  Thingiverse tends to slowly break links, though, so these might not last:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:53451&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Geared Bearing&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:621854&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Captive Ball&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4345&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Three Rings&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:79310&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Triple Gear&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2148303&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Self-aligning Bushing Keychain&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10957" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-07-09T15:22:33.727" LastActivityDate="2018-07-09T15:22:33.727" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6341" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6338" CreationDate="2018-07-09T15:13:03.887" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This question is unfortunately, not a good fit for this site, as it stands, for as you say it is opinion based. However, it is great to see that you are getting kids into a relatively new technology (yes, I know it has been around for years, but it is still seen as new to &lt;em&gt;big media&lt;/em&gt; and the general public). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strike&gt;My answer doesn't provide you with any actual designs, as you asked for.&lt;/strike&gt; However, just to add an idea or two that I have been thinking about recently, in order to engage kids:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Have you thought about using 3D printing pens (as side projects to the main feature of the printer)? Although I'm not so sure that the fumes at such close proximity would be that great, unless using PLA. That really would show close up the additive process.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Also, there is a lot of useful sites to be found on &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.co.th/search?q=T3d%20printing%20for%20kids&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;google&lt;/a&gt; (which you have probably seen), such as:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.kidscodecs.com/what-is-3d-printing/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;kidscodecs - What is 3D printing?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;All3DP has &lt;a href=&quot;https://all3dp.com/1/3d-printed-toys-kids-3d-printing-toys/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;3D Printed Toys – 11 Ideas for Children of all Ages&lt;/a&gt;, but these &lt;em&gt;seem&lt;/em&gt; to need to be purchased.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Alternative applications for kids, from &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprint.com/159445/best-cad-for-kids/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Best CAD Software for Kid Creators&lt;/a&gt;, that might be worth considering if Fusion 360 doesn't float their &lt;strike&gt;Benchy&lt;/strike&gt; boat: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://appsforkids.solidworks.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Solidworks Apps for Kids&lt;/a&gt;,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;SketchUp &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;123D Design&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tinkercad; &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;LeoCAD&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Leopoly&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;BlocksCAD&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;3D Slash&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Some other ideas from &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprint.com/tag/3d-design-app-for-kids/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;3dPrint.com - 3d design app for kids&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Maybe, as all kids seem to have iPhones, or what have you, these days, how about an App for kids upon which they can play with a design, and then print it later? Such an app would probably provide examples for them to get started with. One such app is the &lt;a href=&quot;https://toymaker.astroprint.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Toy Maker by AstroPrint&lt;/a&gt; - although that may require a commercial printer, I'm not sure. However, other such apps for smart phones probably are out there. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for examples, there are &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/tag:kids_toy&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;42 kids&lt;/a&gt; toys tagged on Thingiverse, such as:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2238123&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Save the last Unicorn [Game]&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2855568&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Cartoon Weiner Dog&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2124806&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Lily Bobtail (Peter Rabbit Series)&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:368229&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Grand Hillar&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/El7xY.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Grand Hillar&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/El7xY.png&quot; alt=&quot;Grand Hillar&quot; title=&quot;Grand Hillar&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also to take from IronEagle's idea, some fidget spinners:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2313626&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Fidget Spinner&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2285700&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Kid Sized Generic Spinner&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2245460&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;10mm Nut Fidget Spinner&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4762" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-07-10T12:24:20.087" LastActivityDate="2018-07-10T12:24:20.087" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6342" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6496" CreationDate="2018-07-09T15:42:07.727" Score="9" ViewCount="59567" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am pondering about buying a Creality Ender-3, and I am honestly confused about some reviews. Some claim it is running 24 V, one did claim it was 12 V, most don't mention it. Since I know about some issues with the clamps, if I get myself an Ender-3, I want to replace the hotend with a proper one from day one. So knowing its voltage is needed to order the right parts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2020-08-15T11:20:57.630" LastActivityDate="2020-08-15T11:20:57.630" Title="What voltage does the Creality Ender-3 run at?" Tags="|creality-ender-3|replacement-parts|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6343" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6342" CreationDate="2018-07-09T15:56:42.197" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;After checking the amazon listings of the ender-3, they contain more information than the gearbest listing: indeed it is a &lt;strong&gt;24V&lt;/strong&gt; machine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Product description&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[...]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Output: DC 24 V 15 A 360 W&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[...]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:29:41.667" LastActivityDate="2018-08-13T18:06:24.710" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6344" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2018-07-09T19:03:06.707" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;A low-cost 3D printer clone of the Prusa i3 using aluminium profiles (20 x 20 mm and 20 x 40 mm) with a heated bed. A Bowden style extruder is lifted on a portal style printer with a single Z-axis stepper motor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-10-03T06:13:39.487" LastActivityDate="2018-10-03T06:13:39.487" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6345" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2018-07-09T19:03:06.707" Score="0" Body="For questions about the Creality Ender 3" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-07-09T19:32:59.393" LastActivityDate="2018-07-09T19:32:59.393" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6346" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6336" CreationDate="2018-07-09T20:44:23.013" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;OK, after going via all the options I found that CURA has a combing mode which reduces retraction and offers another option which is &lt;code&gt;Avoid Printed Parts When Traveling&lt;/code&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That solves my problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9730" LastActivityDate="2018-07-09T20:44:23.013" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6347" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2018-07-10T09:02:56.870" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;A Z-probe is a mechanical (contact), electronic (capacitive, inductive or piezo), acoustic or optical sensor that is used to level the (heated) build plate. Usually the less expensive 3D printers are equipped with a simple mechanical switch to level the bed. More advanced sensors can be used to automatically level the bed. The choice of sensor depends on the choice of the (heated) build platform.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-07-10T11:35:34.793" LastActivityDate="2018-07-10T11:35:34.793" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6348" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2018-07-10T09:02:56.870" Score="0" Body="Use this tag for question that relate to switches or probes to level the bed either manually or automatically" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-07-10T11:35:11.763" LastActivityDate="2018-07-10T11:35:11.763" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6349" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2018-07-10T09:10:14.043" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;All hardware parts or devices related to 3D printing are meant to be tagged with this tag as long it is not software related. This includes 3D printer parts (please beware of existing tags for specific parts like extruder, heated bed, etc.), devices, spool systems, tools, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-07-10T11:35:25.110" LastActivityDate="2018-07-10T11:35:25.110" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6350" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2018-07-10T09:10:14.043" Score="0" Body="Any questions related to 3D printer hardware, implying physical parts of the 3D printer or in the immediate vicinity of the 3D printer may be tagged with this tag" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-07-10T11:35:07.747" LastActivityDate="2018-07-10T11:35:07.747" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6351" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2018-07-10T09:22:55.327" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;An axis is a direction in the &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cartesian_coordinate_system&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Cartesian coordinate system&lt;/a&gt;. Three axes describe the complete movement of the 3D printer:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;X-axis(usually the movement of the hotend from left to right facing the a Cartesian style printer)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Y-axis(usually the movement of the platform from front to back facing the a Cartesian style printer, or the hotend movement to front and back for non moving platforms in Y direction)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Z-axis (usually the movement of thehot end from build plate to the maximum height of the printer, or the lowering of the bed for non moving platform printers in Y direction)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-07-10T11:35:21.573" LastActivityDate="2018-07-10T11:35:21.573" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6352" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2018-07-10T09:22:55.327" Score="0" Body="Use this tag for questions related to a certain movement direction of the printer" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-07-10T11:35:04.247" LastActivityDate="2018-07-10T11:35:04.247" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6353" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2018-07-10T09:25:46.860" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;For questions regarding troubleshooting or design of a 3D Printer or 3D model's Y-axis. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For cartesian printers, the Y-axis is usually the direction of horizontal movement of the build plate, to the maximum length of the printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For delta printers, the Y-axis is used for, and defines, the movement of the second stepper associated with the second Y-axis tower.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is an axis or shaft direction in the &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cartesian_coordinate_system&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Cartesian coordinate system&lt;/a&gt;. Three axes describe the complete movement of the 3D printer. The Y-axis is usually the horizontal movement of the platform from front to back when facing the a Cartesian style printer, or the horizontal hotend movement to front and back for non-moving platforms in the Y direction (e.g. CoreXY or H-bot printers).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2019-05-30T23:36:06.663" LastActivityDate="2019-05-30T23:36:06.663" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6354" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2018-07-10T09:25:46.860" Score="0" Body="Use this tag for questions related to specific movement of the Y direction of the printer - Questions about a machine or 3D model's Y-axis" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2019-05-30T23:23:03.593" LastActivityDate="2019-05-30T23:23:03.593" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6355" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6357" CreationDate="2018-07-10T09:38:45.590" Score="10" ViewCount="58178" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ok, I did it, I ordered myself an Ender-3, a genuine 24V e3D hotend, inductive sensor and some better tubing/clamps to cope with the problem the CR10/Ender line has occasionally.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But now I need to fix up my Cura for the machine coming in. The start is the CR10, and fixing the dimensions is easy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But now comes the tricky part: Start and End G-code. For my TronXY I never bothered with changing it away from the &quot;basic&quot; settings that a &quot;custom 3D printer&quot; on Marlin gave, but this time I want to know what I type in there. The basic code, after I dragged out the G-code handbook from the RepRap wiki to add the missing comments is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;G28            ;Home&#xA;G1 Z15.0 F6000 ;Move the Gantry up 15mm going fast&#xA;;Prime the extruder&#xA;G92 E0         ; reset extrusion distance&#xA;G1 F200 E3     ; extrude 3mm of feed stock&#xA;G92 E0         ; reset extrusion distance&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/wiki/Start_GCode_routines&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;RepRap Wiki&lt;/a&gt; suggests that there could be made so much more from this. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would love to &lt;em&gt;swipe&lt;/em&gt; the nozzle before starting to print, making sure that the curled up filament from this first extrusion doesn't get squished against the nozzle and make a bad first layer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;How does an example (commented) G-code for swiping the nozzle look like?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2018-07-10T17:31:51.717" LastActivityDate="2022-01-05T18:08:32.480" Title="Writing G-code : swiping at start of print" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|g-code|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6356" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6355" CreationDate="2018-07-10T10:15:32.970" Score="6" Body="&lt;h2&gt;What code we have so far&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The code already made by Ultimaker Cura 3 (and then commented on) can be explained a little more:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;code&gt;G28 ;Home&lt;/code&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;em&gt;This homes your machine to hit end stop positions, from now on your printer knows the coordinates of the print volume. This place it knows as &amp;lt;0-0-0&amp;gt; - check where that is: above the print surface or next to it!&lt;br&gt;&lt;/em&gt;&#xA;&lt;code&gt;G1 Z15.0 F6000 ;Move the Gantry up 15mm going fast&lt;/code&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;em&gt;Instruct the build plate to move down, or in your case lift the head up 15 mm at 6000 mm/min&lt;br&gt;&lt;/em&gt;&#xA;&lt;code&gt;;Prime the extruder&lt;/code&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;em&gt;This is a comment that the nex code will deal with priming the nozzle&lt;br&gt;&lt;/em&gt;&#xA;&lt;code&gt;G92 E0 ; reset extrusion distance&lt;/code&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;em&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#G92:_Set_Position&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;G92&lt;/a&gt; sets the position of the extruder by resetting the current position to the specified value of zero&lt;br&gt;&lt;/em&gt;&#xA;&lt;code&gt;G1 F200 E3 ; extrude 3mm of feed stock&lt;/code&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;em&gt;This will extrude 3 mm of filament at a feedrate of 200 mm/min&lt;br&gt;&lt;/em&gt;&#xA;&lt;code&gt;G92 E0 ; reset extrusion distance&lt;/code&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;em&gt;This will reset the extruder length again to zero&lt;br&gt;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Result of the code&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically you will have some filament dangling on your nozzle now, or falling of as the nozzle is hot creating a fine string. You now are facing the possibility that the primed material will be dragged along the build plate to the start of the print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Nozzle Preparation: Priming sequences&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Ultimaker 3: 'blob'&amp;amp;swipe&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An alternative I really like is the priming sequence of the Ultimaker 3. The hot end is instructed near the origin of the printer at about a height of 2 mm above the build plate when it starts to extrude plastic, once the extruded plastic becomes a puddle of about 6 mm in diameter the build plate lowers a few mm's and keep extruding for a bit. It then moves in positive Y direction (to the back) and raises the platform (this is the swipe action), then retracts and starts to move to the print start. Now the puddle of filament stays near the origin and will not be dragged.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can easily make a similar schematic for your printer, I've done so also for various printers. Try and experiment what works best for you. The swipe action is the movement where the nozzle will be instructed to move near the build plate while moving in a certain direction (Y or X), a height of a few tenths is enough to swipe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't have my exact profile here, but you could add (skipping feedrates):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;G1 Y15 Z0.2 ; moves the nozzle backwards and down from 15 mm to 0.2 mm&#xA;G1 Y20 Z0.2 ; swipes the nozzle, this should cut off the &amp;quot;worm&amp;quot;&#xA;G1 Z1     ; raise for movement to start of print to add a little space to travel&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:29:41.667" LastActivityDate="2019-11-06T13:37:39.547" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6357" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6355" CreationDate="2018-07-10T13:32:24.393" Score="9" Body="&lt;h2&gt;The lazy way: Skirt/Brim&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With my TronXY X1 I learned pretty fast, that this first bit of extrusion on an unheated bed can totally mess up the first layer by being just in the way, as explained in the question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To some degree, this behavior can be avoided by adding a skirt of a certain length. An equally good alternative that also increases bed adhesion for tricky parts is the brim. Both are not set via G-code but can be added by the slicer. In Ultimaker Cura both are found in the tab Build Plate Adhesion as type, as the following pictures show:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Skirt: 2 lines, minimum length 250mm&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iN6IM.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iN6IM.png&quot; alt=&quot;Skirt: 2 lines, minimum length 250mm&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Brim: minimum length 250mm, 8mm width&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uL1Fn.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uL1Fn.png&quot; alt=&quot;Brim: minimum length 250mm, 8mm width&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;The Prusa Priming-line&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Angus/MakersMuse introduced me to the Prusa Priming Line in one of his &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6csbJ5965Bk&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;tutorial videos&lt;/a&gt;. For his Wanhao he used (for the video) just this start G-code script:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;G28&#xA;G1 Y-3 F500 ; Move out of print volume&#xA;G1 X60 E9 F500 ; start purge line&#xA;G1 X100 E12.5 F500 ; finish purge line&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This resulted in a nice line like this:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GAWQW.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GAWQW.png&quot; alt=&quot;A printed &amp;quot;Prusa Priming Line&amp;quot;&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In Ultimaker Cura, this piece of code is added via the preferences of a machine. In Cura 3, you usually had to add the starting G-code yourself. Since at least version 4.2.1, all preset machines contain some variant of a priming line, usually at the left side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:29:41.667" LastActivityDate="2019-11-06T13:51:34.637" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6358" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6359" CreationDate="2018-07-10T13:49:35.493" Score="9" ViewCount="10111" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am getting a 24&amp;nbsp;V based Ender 3. From the factory, it has an aluminium bed. So I also put this &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B071ZQ6VV6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;psc=1&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;LJ12 A3-4-Z/BX Inductive NPN NO 4 mm&lt;/a&gt; with 6-36&amp;nbsp;V operation current into the box together with a few other spare parts. Now, as I read up on these things something dawns on me: The normal input and output voltage of a simple switch is 5&amp;nbsp;V, as sensors are ran on 5&amp;nbsp;V on most boards (and in digital logics). The sensors run on 6&amp;nbsp;V plus though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do not want to fry my machine by putting in 24&amp;nbsp;V into the sensor input: What do I have to do (besides making a mount)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-02-20T23:00:55.413" LastActivityDate="2019-08-11T20:44:58.900" Title="Inductive Sensor in 24 V machine?" Tags="|z-probe|creality-ender-3|inductive-sensor|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6359" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6358" CreationDate="2018-07-10T14:20:01.547" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;The inductive sensors work better when you apply a higher voltage than 5&amp;nbsp;V. Usually they are rated for 6-36&amp;nbsp;V, but please do check.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To prevent frying your board when connecting the sensor to (12 or) 24 Volts you could optically isolate the 5&amp;nbsp;V and the (12 or) 24&amp;nbsp;V circuit with an OptoCoupler module:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Image of an optocoupler module&lt;/em&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Xfrlg.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Xfrlg.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;OptoCoupler module&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This module uses an optical switch based on the output of the sensor and should be correctly connected:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Image of connecting an optocoupler module to the sensor and to the board&lt;/em&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;sub&gt;Please note that the image uses a capacitive sensor rather than a inductive sensor, both are connected similarly&lt;/sub&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/munY6.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/munY6.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;wiring of an optocoupler module&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that there are many sorts of sensors, a few are listed &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprint.wiki/reprap/anet/a8/improvement/autobedleveling#sensor_support&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;. Generally speaking, the larger the diameter of the sensor, the larger the detection distance to the bed. Note that these work well with metal beds (Iron/steel better than Aluminium), but will not work for glass (capacitive sensors work on glass but are prone to drift by moisture in the air, a touch sensor may then be a better alternative).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-02-20T22:57:54.973" LastActivityDate="2019-02-20T22:57:54.973" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6360" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4975" CreationDate="2018-07-10T14:49:31.943" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/4975/printing-starts-well-but-then-it-breaks-down-anet-a8#answer-4976&quot;&gt;answer by fred_dot_u&lt;/a&gt; is fine for small prints with relative low cost or batch producing, where a single part is needed several times. But if you print something big or unique it's not cost effective. Slowing down the complete print is also not very time efficient. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In Cura there an option called &lt;strong&gt;Mininum layer time&lt;/strong&gt;, which addresses this problem:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Cooling -&amp;gt; Minimum Layer Time / Minimum Speed&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This means that it will only slow down when the print distance for a particular layer is short. Giving the material some extra time to harden. Other layers will be printed at normal speed. Increased print time will be limited this way. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For your situation I would advise you to increase the part cooling, if possible, in conjunction with configuring the &lt;em&gt;Minimum Layer Time&lt;/em&gt; option mentioned above.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11297" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2018-08-04T17:02:08.303" LastActivityDate="2018-08-04T17:02:08.303" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6361" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5660" CreationDate="2018-07-10T15:06:54.530" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Duet3D has a very nice &lt;a href=&quot;https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Choosing_a_Z_probe&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;overview&lt;/a&gt;. It totally depends on your demands. e.g., accuracy, different build surfaces, tolerance. Personly I realy like the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.precisionpiezo.co.uk/shop&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;piezo&lt;/a&gt;. It actually uses your nozzle to 'touch' the bed. So 0 height is absoluty 0. This eliminates the need for Z-offset.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11297" LastEditorUserId="11297" LastEditDate="2018-07-10T15:12:04.607" LastActivityDate="2018-07-10T15:12:04.607" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6362" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2018-07-10T15:29:10.623" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Inductive Proximity Sensors use Faraday's law of induction and a magneticfield sensor to determine, if they have been brought into the proximity of an electric conducting material.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Often they serve as Z-endstops and can be used for automatic bedleveling without the risk of mechanic failure of the switch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2018-07-10T16:10:35.543" LastActivityDate="2018-07-10T16:10:35.543" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6363" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2018-07-10T15:29:10.623" Score="0" Body="For questions dedicated about the mounting or useage of Inductive sensors" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2018-07-10T16:10:32.437" LastActivityDate="2018-07-10T16:10:32.437" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6364" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-07-10T19:00:00.340" Score="5" ViewCount="560" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have seen printers with table screws and bed leveling sensor and printers that have only bed leveling sensor (such as Prusa).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So my question is how does the bed levelling work when there is only a sensor, and no adjustment screws? What will happen if I totally remove the table from the printer and then re-assemble it? Will the print fail or what? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10230" LastEditorUserId="4927" LastEditDate="2018-07-12T07:42:49.917" LastActivityDate="2018-07-12T07:42:49.917" Title="How bed leveling is achieved without table screws?" Tags="|z-axis|bed-leveling|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6365" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6364" CreationDate="2018-07-10T19:51:44.840" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Prusa uses 9 marker points in the bed that are sensed with an induction sensor to determine the X, Y and Z position. Any deviation for skewness or bed level is compensated through the software. Please do note that the bed is pretty level to begin with (by design).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is precisely described &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.prusaprinters.org/first-printer-to-automatically-correct-geometry-in-all-axes/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;, please check the video.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Marlin Firmware&lt;/a&gt; (which is basically what drives the Prusa printers) has skewness compensation implemented. This is implemented in the &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/blob/1.1.x/Marlin/Configuration.h&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;configuration file&lt;/a&gt;, and found under header &lt;code&gt;Bed Skew Compensation&lt;/code&gt;. You basically print a square and measure the diagonals and insert these measurements into the configuration file. Prusa printers do this automatically by using the measurements of the marker points.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-07-10T22:13:38.823" LastActivityDate="2018-07-10T22:13:38.823" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6366" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4224" CreationDate="2018-07-10T21:44:23.927" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;OctoPi works well. Network access out of the box was tricky for me (my router was using channel 13 so the script based config didn't work). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have octopi send me PushBullet notifications of print progress (which might be handy for sharing). This is handy since it can traverse firewalls more easily than me connecting direct to my Pi from outside my home network.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm single user, but it does things like let you upload g-code from a PC, and then action a print later (using any browser). I've not had any problems with stability, although using the serial port does increase the processor loading of the printer a little (so theoretically might have an impact on print quality). My R-Pi 3 onboard wifi did die, but it was replaced with a USB one, and all still works.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are lots of plugins for octoprint, including some for cloud access to the printer I think, and development seems quite active.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4927" LastEditorUserId="4927" LastEditDate="2018-07-10T22:53:48.190" LastActivityDate="2018-07-10T22:53:48.190" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6367" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-07-11T04:40:08.457" Score="3" ViewCount="645" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have bought the &lt;em&gt;Tevo Tarantula 3D Printer Kit&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I'm printing something that I created (using Cinema 4D), the printer prints it without any problems, but, when I download something from the internet, my Y axis makes steps 1-3&amp;nbsp;mm per layer and it makes any product unusable at the end.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is what is does. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KphsG.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Failed print&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KphsG.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Failed print&quot; title=&quot;Failed print&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It does every single layer, not just randomly. I don't know if I have bad configuration or something like that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11304" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-07-11T21:26:09.413" LastActivityDate="2018-07-11T21:26:09.413" Title="3D Printer makes steps at Y axis (in some cases)" Tags="|print-quality|y-axis|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6368" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6358" CreationDate="2018-07-11T08:50:21.987" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Another possibility is to create a &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Voltage_divider&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;voltage divider&lt;/a&gt; circuit. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;In electronics, a voltage divider (also known as a potential divider)&#xA;  is a passive linear circuit that produces an output voltage (V&lt;sub&gt;out&lt;/sub&gt;)&#xA;  that is a fraction of its input voltage (V&lt;sub&gt;in&lt;/sub&gt;). Voltage division is &#xA;  the result of distributing the input voltage among the components of the&#xA;  divider. A simple example of a voltage divider is two resistors&#xA;  connected in series, with the input voltage applied across the&#xA;  resistor pair and the output voltage emerging from the connection&#xA;  between them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that fluctuating voltages of the power supply can have side effects that the voltage of the divider is either too low or high for the pin and could result in either a detection miss or could burn the on board processor. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A voltage divider based on 12&amp;nbsp;V is depicted below based on &lt;a href=&quot;https://mertarauh.com/2017/01/18/dont-trust-the-internet-and-how-to-add-an-inductive-proximity-sensor-to-your-3d-printer-the-proper-and-easiest-way&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this source&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6HSYk.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6HSYk.png&quot; alt=&quot;12 V voltage divider&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please note that for different voltage you require a different value, e.g. for 24&amp;nbsp;V you would require (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ohmslawcalculator.com/voltage-divider-calculator&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;by calculation&lt;/a&gt;) a 2.63&amp;nbsp;k&amp;#8486; resistor (which does not exist, so put two resistors in &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Series_and_parallel_circuits&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;series&lt;/a&gt;; a 2.2&amp;nbsp;k&amp;#8486; and a 430&amp;nbsp;&amp;#8486; to get that value).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;NOTE:&lt;br&gt;This is posted as a separate answer as the question by the OP can be answered by different solutions; this solution uses a totally different approach than my other answer. It is up to the OP to decide which of the answers suits the OP best. This is not in contrast to the SE approach as can be taken from various Meta questions on this topic. To incorporated this answer into the other answer (with multiple ways under captions) is per definition not better than having various answers; different solutions should be in different answers so that they can be voted independently of each other&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-07-17T12:07:31.093" LastActivityDate="2019-07-17T12:07:31.093" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6369" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6367" CreationDate="2018-07-11T09:37:24.137" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;When you describe a problem like this, it is best to describe the effect, not what you think is the cause - particularly since others then might mis-read your description.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Each layer being offset in one direction suggests that there is a problem with either the part moving on the bed (unlikely), or in the registration of one axis drifting over time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most likely, your Y-axis is skipping steps. It could be several things:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the axis binding on it's runners&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the drive belt skipping because it is loose&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the drive belt binding because it is too tight&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;too fast a print/travel speed&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the print nozzle catching on the print (bed too high, no z-hop)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;not enough drive current to the stepper motor&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;stepper motor failing&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;belt drive loose on the stepper shaft&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A common 'feature' of 3d printing is that different models might emphasise one problem, but a different shape might hide it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check that everything is properly tightened, moves freely, and the belts are undamaged - with luck you can find the problem and it's not electrical.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4927" LastActivityDate="2018-07-11T09:37:24.137" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6370" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4224" CreationDate="2018-07-11T10:04:35.387" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;sub&gt;This has been converted from comment to answer. It adds some extra information to the &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/6366/5740&quot;&gt;answer&lt;/a&gt; of &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/4927/sean-houlihane&quot;&gt;@SeanHoulihane&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm running OctoPrint on a Raspberry Pi (RPi) 2B for about 1.5 years, I only had to switch to another Pi because the copper processor heatsink fell off and caused a short circuit destroying the network communication, but never had a problem with instability for instance. New RPi 2B is running like a charm. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that OctoPrint it highly customizable, you have lots of plugins to choose from and you can change/add things yourself. E.g. you can add menu items in the GUI of OctoPrint. This can be used to run shell scripts that control the &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/General-purpose_input/output&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;GPIO&lt;/a&gt; of the RPi. With these scripts you can e.g. switch the mains voltage on and off, the annoying extruder fan on/off and e.g. LED lighting. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With plugins I have custom G-codes that enable or disable the extruder fan by injecting G-code scripts with specific, self defined, G-code commands like e.g. OCTO100, OCTO110 (to respectively enable or disable the fan, see some details &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/5812/5740&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2018-07-11T10:04:35.387" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6371" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6331" CreationDate="2018-07-11T10:41:57.237" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The heated bed is a reasonably good thermal conductor, so the difference in energy between heating all or 10% of the bed (assuming a 3x3 grid split 1 and 8) isn't going to be that significant. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In terms of heating speed, 200W across the whole bed will heat it faster than 40W applied to the centre square, and will also be less likely to cause warming or heat cycling effects (unless PSU regulation is a problem).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the bed is much larger, or has thermally separated zones, then there might be some justification in the increased control complexity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As an example, although glass has a thermal conductivity around 1% of a metal, it is still 30x better conducting than air. Conductivity towards the unheated areas of even a solid glass bed will roughly match the surface loss - so best case you would reduce losses to somewhere 20%-50% of what heating the whole bed might cost (assuming the same 3x3 grid).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4927" LastEditorUserId="4927" LastEditDate="2018-07-11T12:33:46.650" LastActivityDate="2018-07-11T12:33:46.650" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6372" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6329" CreationDate="2018-07-11T11:01:23.300" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is possible that your printer is over-extruding, and this will certainly give less satisfactory results when you try to print models which have internal clearances. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is also possible that you have some calibration issues which affect orthogonality, x/y/z dimensions or flatness in each axis.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In terms of general improvements, slower and maybe cooler might help - but before jumping in with difficult models, how are your 'standard' print test parts coming out?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4927" LastActivityDate="2018-07-11T11:01:23.300" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6373" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5802" CreationDate="2018-07-11T15:13:43.573" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just had this same problem and my solution was to push the motor as close as I could up to where the screw goes, because they weren’t lined up. I hope that helped.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11311" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-07-11T16:23:03.217" LastActivityDate="2018-07-11T16:23:03.217" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6374" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3472" CreationDate="2018-07-11T19:00:53.717" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Put it simply: they say 1.75&amp;nbsp;mm with a &amp;plusmn; error of 0.05&amp;nbsp;mm.   Which means your flow may vary &amp;plusmn;2.9&amp;nbsp;% while you are printing creating blobs and such.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The smaller the filament tolerance, the more expensive the production costs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11313" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-07-26T08:38:13.663" LastActivityDate="2019-07-26T08:38:13.663" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6375" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6376" CreationDate="2018-07-11T20:25:53.417" Score="12" ViewCount="80915" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I print large prints close to (but not exceeding) the maximum dimensions of the heated build platform on my Anet A8, the brim or skirt or the print itself is printed outside the heated bed, while there is some space left at the opposite sites. It appears as if the print is not in the center.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Why is the print not centered on the bed?&lt;br&gt;&lt;em&gt;It was centered in the slicer before generating the G-code.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How can I center the print to make it fit on the heated build platform?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-11-22T09:20:44.840" LastActivityDate="2021-03-28T17:17:55.313" Title="How to center my prints on the build platform? (Re-calibrate homing offset)" Tags="|heated-bed|calibration|build-plate|knowledgebase|homing|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6376" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6375" CreationDate="2018-07-11T20:25:53.417" Score="18" Body="&lt;p&gt;When centered in the slicer correctly, without offsets defined in the slicer, the printer is most probably incorrectly configured! Luckily you can do something about that! Basically, you will have to calibrate the printer for a new center.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Printer origin?&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First of all, the firmware determines where your origin of the printer is. This implies that you need to properly set bed dimensions and offset values from the end stop switches in the firmware (usually not necessary out-of-the-box, but important when a newer or different firmware version is uploaded). These offsets determine where the origin of the bed plate is located. For Marlin firmware it is very common (for most printers) to have the origin specified at the front left corner (when facing the printer). From the &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/blob/1.1.x/Marlin/Configuration.h&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;configuration of Marlin&lt;/a&gt; we find the origin is e.g. in the front-left corner. Note that this can be rotated 180 degrees in certain printers, so the aft-right. Also be aware that there are a few printers that have the origin in the center, e.g. Delta's and a few Cartesian printers. Marlin definition (edited snippet) of a common bed layout:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&#xA; *      +-- BACK ---+&#xA; *      |           |&#xA; *    L |    (+)    | R&#xA; *    E |           | I&#xA; *    F | (-) N (+) | G&#xA; *    T |           | H&#xA; *      |    (-)    | T&#xA; *      |           |&#xA; *      O-- FRONT --+&#xA; *    (0,0)&#xA; * .(-Xh, -Yh)&#xA;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;How do I find the physical origin of the printer?&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This can be tested by instructing the head/nozzle to go to e.g. (0, 0, 15) using a &lt;a href=&quot;/q/10573&quot;&gt;terminal/console&lt;/a&gt; or a simple G-code file with a move to that coordinate that you print from SD card (e.g. &lt;code&gt;G1 X0 Y0 Z15 F500&lt;/code&gt;); &lt;em&gt;note a Z of 15 is chosen for safety!&lt;/em&gt;. When this is performed, the nozzle should be at the (elevated, so X, Y) origin as defined by your firmware. Usually this is at the left front corner of your build plate (there may be clips there, so therefore the elevated value), but this may be different depending on the firmware settings or firmware brand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next step is to configure the slicer as such that this coincides with the actual origin. Incorrect slicer settings can cause the slicer to assume the origin is at a different position than your actual position. In Ultimaker Cura, the &amp;quot;Origin at center&amp;quot; is notoriously known for this when the physical origin is not in the center, but in a corner. When the slicer is properly instructed, but the origin is still not at the corner of the build plate (&lt;strong&gt;beware!&lt;/strong&gt; in some printers the origin is in the middle of the plate) you might have incorrect endstop to origin offsets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Determine the offset first!&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To quantify the offset of the center as it is known by the printer software (firmware) it is advised to print a large square that is a few percentage smaller than the maximum size of the bed. E.g. you can create a square hull at e.g. 90 % of the dimensions of the bed (parametric designs are very useful for this purpose, see e.g. &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2280529/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;this design&lt;/a&gt;). There are many things (&lt;code&gt;.stl&lt;/code&gt; models) to be found on the internet. If it includes a cross, even better as some platforms have a mark in the center of the bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Example of a bed center calibration model&lt;/em&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9eM3Wm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9eM3Wm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;bed center calibration model&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once printed, measure the distance from every edge from the build platform to the printed square. If you fail to print the square, please check the level of the platform; &lt;strong&gt;this is also an excellent test for the level of your bed!&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;The measurements should give you a notion of the offset of the bed. E.g. for the X-axis you measure a distance of 12 mm on the left and 8 mm on the right (when facing the printer) you can easily deduce that the center is (12 - 8)/2 = 2 mm to the right (positive X direction). This implies that the printer manufacturer has done a lousy job by delivering you a printer with an offset bed; better said incorrectly configured in their firmware. Note this is not uncommon!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;How to fix this!&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you quantified the offset, you want to be sure that your next print prints in the middle of the bed. How to proceed? Basically there are a couple of solutions you can use, each with its own advantages and disadvantages.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;A simple solution (i.e. if the printer support this) is to adjust the position of the endstops. Alternatively you can print alternate endstop holders to match the position change as measured from the calibration print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Another simple and popular solution is applying an &lt;strong&gt;offset in the slicer&lt;/strong&gt;. You could do that in the printer options some of the available slicers. If such options are not available, you could add &lt;strong&gt;G-code commands in the start code&lt;/strong&gt; to create the offset (e.g. &lt;code&gt;G1&lt;/code&gt; X-2 moves to the left and &lt;code&gt;G92 X0&lt;/code&gt; resets the X origin). Note that this is a quick fix and should be applied wisely. The printer does not know where the actual center is! You merely changed if after the homing sequence. Exchanging &lt;code&gt;.gcode&lt;/code&gt; with fellow enthusiasts with the same printer may have adverse effects.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A far better solution is to fix the center in the firmware so that the printer knows the &lt;strong&gt;actual&lt;/strong&gt; center. This requires some extra effort by uploading firmware (files including configuration settings) to the printer or send G-code commands. The latter option will be discussed first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol start=&quot;3&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A prerequisite of this method is that it requires the &lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/wiki/G-code&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;G-code command&lt;/a&gt; &lt;code&gt;[M206](https://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#M206:_Offset_axes)&lt;/code&gt; to be supported by your firmware; note that not all 3D printer firmware solutions are able to use this G-code command for axes offset definition. E.g. the stock Anet A8 runs a modified Repetier version that does not support &lt;code&gt;M206&lt;/code&gt;, it would be time to upload a new firmware like e.g. &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Marlin Firmware&lt;/a&gt; making this particular printer safer as the stock firmware does not include thermal runaway protection! See question: &amp;quot;&lt;a href=&quot;/q/8466/&quot;&gt;What is Thermal Runaway Protection?&lt;/a&gt;&amp;quot;. To send G-code commands to a printer you have the option to hook up your computer to the printer over USB and use a 3D printer program that support sending commands to the printer (this is called a terminal; i.e. an interface to the printer). Programs like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.pronterface.com/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;PronterFace&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.repetier.com/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Repetier-Host&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;https://octoprint.org/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;OctoPrint&lt;/a&gt;, and probably many more have such an interface. A simple alternative that works also is creating a text file (with &lt;code&gt;.gcode&lt;/code&gt; extension) with the commands on separate lines and executing the &amp;quot;print&amp;quot;. The following codes need to be sent: &lt;code&gt;M206&lt;/code&gt; e.g. &lt;code&gt;M206 X-2 Y2&lt;/code&gt; (move center left and to the back, note to use integer values, float values are not allowed!) and store this new center with &lt;code&gt;M500&lt;/code&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The final, best solution is to set it fixed in the firmware. This requires an upload of a more recent configured version of an applicable firmware. See e.g. question: &amp;quot;&lt;a href=&quot;/q/5848&quot;&gt;How to upload firmware to reprap printer?&lt;/a&gt;&amp;quot;. Note that there are different methods to upload a firmware to the board, it is best to search the internet for the applicable method for your board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol start=&quot;4&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;To do that you will have to be comfortable with computer software and tools to build source files and upload binary code to the printer. This depends on the type of firmware you choose and therefore cannot be described for each firmware in detail. Various sources on the internet describe this process. Generally speaking, it requires you to set the bed and offset values/positions correctly. For Marlin Firmware this comes down to changing the settings in the &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/blob/1.1.x/Marlin/Configuration.h&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;configuration file&lt;/a&gt;, this is similar in other firmware software solutions:&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&#xA;// The size of the print bed&#xA;#define X_BED_SIZE 220&#xA;#define Y_BED_SIZE 220&#xA; &#xA;// Travel limits (mm) after homing, corresponding to endstop positions.&#xA;#define X_MIN_POS -35 ; used to be -33, so 2 mm shift to left now&#xA;#define Y_MIN_POS -8 ; used to be -10, so 2 mm shift to the back&#xA;#define Z_MIN_POS 0&#xA;#define X_MAX_POS X_BED_SIZE&#xA;#define Y_MAX_POS Y_BED_SIZE&#xA;#define Z_MAX_POS 240&#xA;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-01-08T23:34:07.607" LastActivityDate="2021-01-08T23:34:07.607" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6377" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-07-11T20:34:13.913" Score="10" ViewCount="524" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm printing parts for a HEVO (&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2254103&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;HyperCube Evolution&lt;/a&gt; CoreXY), using Colorfabb XT filament. After several successful prints. I'm having a lot of failed prints. They start off pretty well but after ~15 layers the filament starts to string and blob. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Printer details&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Model: RepRap i3 &#xA;Extruder: E3D 1.75 all metal hotend.&#xA;Nozzle: .4&#xA;Print temp: 260°C (max. recommended).&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Steps I took to troubleshoot&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;First I thought my nozzle was clogged. But it's not I can push the filament by hand without issues.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lowered the speed to 35&amp;nbsp;mm/s.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Disabled retraction / disabled part cooling.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;increased the max temp with 10&amp;nbsp;% to ensure the filament flow&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Printed parts that fail: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2wEjO.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Top view printed part&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2wEjO.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Top view printed part&quot; title=&quot;Top view printed part&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;em&gt;Note: the two parts on the left are printed in one job&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1jure.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Side view printed part&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1jure.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Side view printed part&quot; title=&quot;Side view printed part&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;UPDATE 26/07&#xA;Dit a few more prints with PETG to eliminate the moisture problem. Same results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/l6vj4.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/l6vj4.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;PETG&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GL1IF.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GL1IF.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;PETG2&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9303" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2022-10-05T11:23:28.610" LastActivityDate="2022-10-05T11:23:28.610" Title="Printing with colorfabb XT fails after several successful layers" Tags="|print-quality|filament|diy-3d-printer|print-material|colorfabb-xt|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6378" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2018-07-11T22:16:52.640" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.freecadweb.org&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;FreeCAD&lt;/a&gt; 3D modelling software application/tool for designing models. It is completely free, runs on various operating systems and can be used by hobbyists or professional designers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-07-12T06:43:36.983" LastActivityDate="2018-07-12T06:43:36.983" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6379" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2018-07-11T22:16:52.640" Score="0" Body="FreeCAD is an open source 3D modelling software application for designing parts." OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-07-12T06:43:40.103" LastActivityDate="2018-07-12T06:43:40.103" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6380" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2018-07-11T22:19:05.173" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Usually this is a hand-held device that combines several measurement functions in one unit. It is also known as a multitester. A typical multimeter can measure voltage, current, and resistance by choosing the proper setting through a dial.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-07-12T06:42:39.870" LastActivityDate="2018-07-12T06:42:39.870" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6381" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2018-07-11T22:19:05.173" Score="0" Body="A device that measures electrical properties like voltage, current or resistance" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-07-12T06:43:50.427" LastActivityDate="2018-07-12T06:43:50.427" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6382" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2018-07-11T22:31:26.230" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Carbon fibres are strings made from the carbon element. Carbon fibres have a high strength-to-weight ratio and rigidity when embedded in a matrix. Filament containing small fibre particles exist to enhance the properties of the basic filament.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-07-12T06:43:54.070" LastActivityDate="2018-07-12T06:43:54.070" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6383" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2018-07-11T22:31:26.230" Score="0" Body="Carbon is an element of the periodic table, but frequently used in the context of carbon fibers." OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-07-12T06:43:15.650" LastActivityDate="2018-07-12T06:43:15.650" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6384" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2999" CreationDate="2018-07-12T01:15:06.667" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It seems like you might be wanting to look at the steps per mm line.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This line is where you calibrate the number of steps per mm. To calibrate, mark a point along an axis, then move that axis something like 100&amp;nbsp;mm. If it didn't move 100&amp;nbsp;mm exactly, make a change&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;(how far it moved)       (how far it should have moved)&#xA;------------------   =   ------------------------------&#xA;(current steps/mm)         (new steps/mm) --&amp;gt; find this&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11315" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-07-12T06:48:59.380" LastActivityDate="2018-07-12T06:48:59.380" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6385" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5623" CreationDate="2018-07-12T06:47:12.063" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The drawback of RAMPS 1.5 and 1.6 are that they use SMD polyfuses which are a little more difficult to replace (for some people) than the large fuses from the RAMPS 1.4. However, the fuses of the RAMPS 1.4 are sticking out, then tend to bend once in a while when you work on the board and could therefore become prone to metal fatigue and break.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Adding on top of this &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/5624/5740&quot;&gt;answer&lt;/a&gt; about cable wiring:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For these type of connectors:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FTuG0s.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FTuG0s.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;screw connector&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8anYjs.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8anYjs.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;screw connectors&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;please use ferrules on the cable ends for wires that transport high loads/currents and use screw terminals:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iHva1m.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iHva1m.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;collection of ferrules&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/06EVS.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/06EVS.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;ferrules crimped on wires&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For these type of connectors:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/47k2Zm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/47k2Zm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;fork connectors&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;please use y-type or fork connectors:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/43VuI.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/43VuI.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;fork connectors&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MW4GUm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MW4GUm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;fork connectors on cable&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-07-12T07:26:13.773" LastActivityDate="2018-07-12T07:26:13.773" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6386" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6375" CreationDate="2018-07-12T07:55:06.553" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;As to &lt;strong&gt;why&lt;/strong&gt; this happens, particularly with a budget printer the end-stop mountings may not be particularly precisely located, or the moving part may actuate the endstop slightly differently in each build. In my case, replacing the hot end (and thus the whole carriage) gave me an offset of some cm. With this upgrade, it was impossible to retain the stock calibration since the extruder dimensions are quite different.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As to &lt;strong&gt;how to fix it&lt;/strong&gt;, the easiest way for me was to modify the 'start g-code'. This fix only applies to the particular slicer, means that what I slice for my A8 won't be centred on the work maker-club Prusa, but doesn't need me to mess about with firmware or apply a per-model update.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After the Z-home operation, I already have a pre-extrude step. Prior to this, I set the actual position of what I want my homed point to be, using &lt;code&gt;G92&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;M82          ; absolute extrusion mode&#xA;G28          ; home all&#xA;G92 X17 Y-12 ; re-define origin&#xA;G92 E0.0     ; reset extruder distance position&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4927" LastEditorUserId="4927" LastEditDate="2018-08-13T17:13:55.743" LastActivityDate="2018-08-13T17:13:55.743" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6387" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-07-12T08:55:15.740" Score="5" ViewCount="1055" Body="&lt;p&gt;I read something the other day about a guy who found a way to knock over completed prints with the printer head itself, then slide them to the edge of the build plate, where they fall into a box/basket. This allows printing several Eiffel Towers while you sleep for example. It doesn't work with skirts (duh), and the adhesion has to be just right not to wake up with a pile of spaghetti, but it still sounds useful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Well, now I cannot re-find the description I read; does anyone know what this process is called? Is there an easy way I can perform such an end-of-print action on my CR-10 with a cura plugin? If such a thing takes a touch of end-time custom gcode, is there a proof of concept rough draft or demo I can start tinkering with? Any more info is helpful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10437" LastActivityDate="2022-01-12T15:38:48.937" Title="Multiple unattended prints using extruder to sweep build plate?" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|g-code|build-plate|automation|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6388" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6387" CreationDate="2018-07-12T09:07:24.860" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could cool down the heated bed (with e.g. &lt;code&gt;[M109][1] R28&lt;/code&gt;) and cool down the hotend (with e.g. &lt;code&gt;[M190][1] R40&lt;/code&gt;). This will usually release the print from the plate, perform the actions to move the head (e.g. go to the largest X, Y position &lt;code&gt;G1 X{max} Y{max}&lt;/code&gt;, move down &lt;code&gt;G1 Z10&lt;/code&gt; to then move to minimum X, Y &lt;code&gt;G1 X0 Y0&lt;/code&gt; position such that it sweeps the print to the origin) that it knocks it into the basket and start printing again by copy pasting the whole G-code beforehand a couple of times. Note that this all depends on the product you are printing. You should at least use the end code scripts for the specific tasks to cool down, and start scripts to heat up again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can write a Cura plugin to implement a new GUI item to copy the G-code multiple times or create a post processing plugin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-07-12T09:35:15.817" LastActivityDate="2018-07-12T09:35:15.817" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6389" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6387" CreationDate="2018-07-12T10:48:42.350" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would advice against it, or at least have some detection for when the object won't budge:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BbbjJ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Print damaged by impact&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BbbjJ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Print damaged by impact&quot; title=&quot;Print damaged by impact&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Leaving a printer unattended needs special care too (fire alarm springs to mind but not only).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8328" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-07-12T10:58:55.547" LastActivityDate="2018-07-12T10:58:55.547" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6390" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6377" CreationDate="2018-07-12T10:59:32.913" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;This looks a lot like &lt;strong&gt;under extrusion caused by heat creep&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Heat creep is when the nozzle temperature 'creeps' up through the filament and makes it melt (a bit) and form a blob (or just widen enough to get stuck) a centimeter or two before the nozzle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The characteristic is usually that everything works perfectly well for some quite fix amount of time, then there is severe under extrusion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Solutions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lower the temperature (yes, as then the heat won't creep as much!)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Add a fan cooling down the cooling part of the print head&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have the same print head as you it seems (E3D 1.75 all metal) and I had heat creep when I changed the fan to a less noisy one (but also less effective).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8328" LastActivityDate="2018-07-12T10:59:32.913" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6391" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6387" CreationDate="2018-07-12T11:40:07.610" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;For fun, from Thingiverse -  &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:872617&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Automatic Print Ejector - The Punching Machine&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's even a video: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Viy928RLsdU&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;MatterHackers Punch-Out!&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sub&gt;Hover for a (slightly annoying) image:&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote class=&quot;spoiler&quot;&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BerJJ.gif&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BerJJ.gif&quot; alt=&quot;Punch-Out&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4762" LastActivityDate="2018-07-12T11:40:07.610" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6392" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5969" CreationDate="2018-07-12T13:43:22.007" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Have you correctly calibrated your steps per mm a.k.a. esteps? Tom made a great video about it:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Mbn1ckR86Z8&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;3D printing guides: Calibration and why you might be doing it wrong&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9303" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-08-06T22:13:50.977" LastActivityDate="2018-08-06T22:13:50.977" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6393" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6377" CreationDate="2018-07-12T14:54:19.373" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;This suggestion may not apply in your specific case (you seem to have looked closely at the problem, and it doesn't really fit the apparent time-dependence) but you might have an issue with the extrusion drive. If your hobbed drive isn't tight on the stepper motor then the 'push' might not be enough to match the force you've tested by hand. This explains one way that the extruder can be more sensitive to small performance variations than you would normally expect (heat build up somehow contributing to those variations).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4927" LastEditorUserId="4927" LastEditDate="2018-07-12T22:46:06.997" LastActivityDate="2018-07-12T22:46:06.997" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6394" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6395" CreationDate="2018-07-12T21:17:30.247" Score="4" ViewCount="1294" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an Anet A8 which I want to convert to an aluminium frame printer like the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2263216&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;AM8&lt;/a&gt; (rebuild of Anet A8 parts):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&amp;emsp;&amp;emsp;&amp;emsp;&amp;emsp;&amp;emsp;&amp;emsp;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gEiyEm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Anet A8 conversion to 2040 Al profile&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gEiyEm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Anet A8 conversion to 2040 Al profile&quot; title=&quot;Anet A8 conversion to 2040 Al profile&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This should give a much more stiff frame with respect to the acrylic frame to aid in a better print quality.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since the bed (220 x 220 mm) has a slight warp, I want to use a larger build platform (200 mm x 300 mm) I have laying around. My plan is to use the 300 mm in the Y direction. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Knowing the maximum outer distance of the current Y bearings to be 105 mm, is that too short for such a large bed?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;How do I calculate the length of the Y axis rods? (especially if you take another distance than 105 mm)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-07-22T21:38:04.003" LastActivityDate="2023-01-14T13:06:37.600" Title="How to calculate linear Y rod length for a larger replacement bed?" Tags="|prusa-i3|diy-3d-printer|anet-a8|build-plate|y-axis|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6395" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6394" CreationDate="2018-07-12T21:17:30.247" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Basically, your setup is the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/96FEK.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Y axis schematic&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/96FEK.png&quot; alt=&quot;Y axis schematic&quot; title=&quot;Y axis schematic&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The overhang of the bed, assuming the bearings are in the center, equals &lt;code&gt;(300-105)/2 = 97.5 mm&lt;/code&gt; on each side. So the distance from the leftmost bearing face (when bed is at &lt;code&gt;y = 0 mm&lt;/code&gt;) to the center of the Y rods assembly equals &lt;code&gt;300 - 97.5 = 202.5 mm&lt;/code&gt;. Knowing this distance for the other side of the center to the right when &lt;code&gt;y = 300 mm&lt;/code&gt; is the same, the minimum length of the rod will therefore be &lt;code&gt;2 x 202.5 = 405 mm&lt;/code&gt; which equals the addition of the bed length and the outer bearing distance &lt;code&gt;300 + 105 = 405 mm&lt;/code&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please note this excludes extra length for e.g. a limit switch, and some extra space around the bed. Basically the extra length of the bed &lt;code&gt;300 - 220 = 80 mm&lt;/code&gt; needs to attributed to each side of the bed, so &lt;code&gt;40 mm&lt;/code&gt; on each side extra.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a 220 x 220 mm bed, the minimum length would be &lt;code&gt;2 x (220 - (220 - 105)/2) = 325 mm&lt;/code&gt;. When I measure the rods between the acrylic flanges it measures about &lt;code&gt;365 mm&lt;/code&gt;, about &lt;code&gt;40 mm&lt;/code&gt; extra for clearance around the bed (&lt;code&gt;20 mm&lt;/code&gt; on each side).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The overhang for the 300 mm bed is not that much, and a construction under the heated plate will be used to fasten the bed at the corners, as long as that construction is not too flimsy, the current distance will be alright. For other distances you should change the value of 105 in the formulas above. E.g. for an outer flange distance for the bearings of 120 mm, you would require rods of at least 420 mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2023-01-14T13:06:37.600" LastActivityDate="2023-01-14T13:06:37.600" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6396" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-07-13T22:17:48.610" Score="4" ViewCount="1747" Body="&lt;p&gt;Have a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=13860&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Monoprice Maker Select v2&lt;/a&gt; and have recently changed to an &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.anycubic3d.com/products/list/594022.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Anycubic Ultrabase&lt;/a&gt; glass plate. In Cura, the model I am printing is in the middle, as shown here:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3DYaB.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3DYaB.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;but the printer puts it around 2/3 of the way up in the Y dimension:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qxiON.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qxiON.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Further investigation: I now believe the platform screws were too far down at one point, so that the platform could not move all the way forward, somehow making the printer think the platform is further back than it actually is. The original and the new platforms are the same size, 22x22&amp;nbsp;cm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(When I run the Cura &quot;bed leveling wizard&quot;, the stops are a bit from the edge at the front, and off the platform at the back, consistent with the theory in the previous paragraph.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even more further investigation: I have now dis-attached the Y-axis belt and moved it back and forth with no improvement. Also, the platform screws hit a couple of bolts at the back, which prevent it from moving all the way back (i.e. the extruder head forward), which seems to be the reason it is not getting to the front of the platform. I think I will have to increase the Z position first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DfZ6I.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DfZ6I.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the above picture, the platform is much higher than the origin position. This is the `back left' corner. If I lower the platform to the nozzle origin, it cannot move all the way back (i.e. nozzle cannot reach front). The screws came with the plate (and are different from the ones I had before). With the platform at the height shown in the picture, it moves freely all the way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the question now is: how do I change the Z-axis &quot;origin&quot; position? Have tried to manually adjust and then select &quot;set origin&quot; on the printer menu, but it did not have any noticeable effect. When selecting &quot;home&quot; it goes back to the old position.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9201" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-12-27T12:15:16.947" LastActivityDate="2019-12-27T12:21:13.313" Title="Adjusting Z-axis (Monoprice Maker Select)" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|prusa-i3|wanhao|monoprice-maker-select|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6397" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6396" CreationDate="2018-07-14T10:52:29.693" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I sawed off about 2&amp;nbsp;mm from the (bed) screw in the photo so it wouldn't catch on the screws of the Y endstop. It now works as before.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DfZ6I.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Detail photo of bed corner and Y endstop&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DfZ6I.png&quot; alt=&quot;Detail photo of bed corner and Y endstop&quot; title=&quot;Detail photo of bed corner and Y endstop&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sub&gt;&#xA;&lt;em&gt;If somebody has a more cerebral solution I will gladly `accept' it.&lt;/em&gt;&#xA;&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9201" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-12-27T12:21:13.313" LastActivityDate="2019-12-27T12:21:13.313" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6398" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6457" CreationDate="2018-07-14T11:26:03.753" Score="4" ViewCount="1203" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have built a 3D printer from parts. It is using a standard 12V power supply, an Arduino Mega 2560 replica and a RAMPS 1.4 board. The hotend cooling fan is connected to the 12V-AUX pin (the one right next to the x axis stepper driver) on the RAMPS board so that it continuously receives power as long as the machine is turned on. The printer is controlled by the Marlin firmware.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I give power to the board, the cooling fan starts spinning with a lot of noise. It sounds like it is receiving a higher amount of current than it should. Moreover, the noise is not steady, but fluctuates slightly. After about 30 seconds, it gets slightly quieter; after about 40-50 seconds, there is a sudden break. From then on, the fan spins quietly and regularly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to measurements with a multimeter, the power supply is keeping a constant and correct voltage of slightly over 12V right from the beginning. Hence, I suspect the issue is somewhere on the RAMPS board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am worried about this being more than a problem of unpleasant noisiness. What could be the cause and is there more to worry about?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can listen to a recording of the sound: &lt;a href=&quot;https://soundcloud.com/user-769347820/3d-printer-hotend-cooling-fan-noise/s-OizCr&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;3D printer hotend cooling fan noise&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that I am not talking about a fan for cooling the extruded plastic, but the one sitting on the extruder heatsink.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Shutting down the printer (even literally unplugging the power supply) and plugging it back in does not lead to the startup noise appearing again. Only when waiting for multiple minutes before reconnecting does it happen again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The voltage to the fan is measured to be constant. The current, on the other hand, correlates with the sounds heard. It starts at 110 - 115 mA. When the fan is quiet, it is at about 90 mA.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11335" LastEditorUserId="11335" LastEditDate="2018-07-23T11:35:20.137" LastActivityDate="2021-01-09T15:55:04.133" Title="Cooling fan spins extremely fast, noisy on startup" Tags="|ramps-1.4|electronics|print-fan|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6399" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6660" CreationDate="2018-07-14T18:47:23.570" Score="12" ViewCount="139918" Body="&lt;p&gt;I got myself the Ender 3. The Home position is about 1 mm left and 2 mm in front of the front left corner. Now, the hotend center axis is 11 mm from the carrier plate with the &amp;quot;Mk 10&amp;quot; cooler mounted right onto a pair of 5 mm pegs that are part of the plate. As I want to change to an e3D v6, which has a diameter of 22 mm, I will have to move out some distance (ca. 13 mm) to the current Z axis. This means, that any Y command will be off by this distance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;How do I reconfigure the Home position to have an offset to the 0-positions gained from the limit switches?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to Repetier Host it runs on &lt;strong&gt;Marlin 1.0&lt;/strong&gt;. Creality offers the firmware on &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.creality3d.cn/download/firmware_c0001&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;their website&lt;/a&gt; as a &lt;strong&gt;.hex&lt;/strong&gt; file - which is hard to edit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2023-05-13T08:04:05.637" LastActivityDate="2023-05-13T08:04:05.637" Title="Recalibrating Home-position" Tags="|creality-ender-3|marlin|homing|knowledgebase|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6400" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4554" CreationDate="2018-07-14T19:14:22.070" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've found that a double-walled base seems to give better results than trying to make the base very thick. Any imperfections in the print, or cracking caused by removing the print can lead to leaks - but if there is layer/infill/layer, the result seems to turn out better for me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Vase mode can be effective (although won't be easy to combine with the above unless you slice your model in several parts), and I've had success whilst using 100% vase mode for vases to hold water. This demonstrates that a single wall thickness is sufficient to achieve a watertight print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4927" LastActivityDate="2018-07-14T19:14:22.070" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6401" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3853" CreationDate="2018-07-14T21:04:23.613" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;We use PLA in an outdoor environment, non-direct sunlight.  PLA seems to be just as strong as day one. It has been about six months now. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, you must seal coat to protect from moisture.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12338" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-07-14T23:57:17.087" LastActivityDate="2018-07-14T23:57:17.087" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6402" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-07-14T21:21:06.707" Score="4" ViewCount="2786" Body="&lt;p&gt;For my Anet A8 I replaced the stock power supply 12V/20A with a eTopxizu 12V/30A, plus I added a fused 250V/10A power switch and mosfet.  The issue that I am having involves the hotbed, it has no issue heating up, but it doesn't heat up past 94 degrees Celsius when I try to print using ABS (not issues so far when printing with PLA).  When I originally installed the new power supply, I had the mosfet and the motherboard powered separately, but I tried powering them both with the same wire and the problem persisted.   I measured the voltage coming out of the power supply and it reads 12.44V, the voltage going into the mosfet reads 12.28V, coming out of the mosfet 10.58V, and the voltage reading on the hotbed is 10.25V.  If you need pictures of my wiring or anything let me know and I will update the post.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11266" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-09-06T21:24:36.813" LastActivityDate="2018-09-06T21:57:05.597" Title="Anet A8 Hotbed Not Heating Correctly" Tags="|heated-bed|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6403" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6402" CreationDate="2018-07-14T22:39:31.297" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;That is actually not uncommon to happen for the Anet heated beds, many users report this. Mine was able to reach about 100 ℃ out of the box (took a while to get there), but not beyond.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the bed to reach higher temperatures you would need to make some adjustments. You should at least insulate the bottom of the heated bed with cotton or cork to reduce the heat dissipation by half. Note to speed up heating to e.g. 110 ℃, I often insulate the top of the plate with a removable piece of cotton or cork to remove it just before leveling and printing starts. Furthermore, replace the heated bed connector and solder the bed power wires directly to the pins at the back of the connector. That connector is &lt;strong&gt;NOT&lt;/strong&gt; rated for the amount of current requested by the heat bed! E.g. due to the moving bed the connector jitters which leads to sparks; you see many pictures of burned or brown connectors on the internet. While you do that please consider replacing the wires to the heat bed also to some proper gauge silicone wire, AWG 14 should be good enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;WARNING!&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Last thing to mention of prime importance is that the stock firmware of the Anet printers has &lt;strong&gt;NO&lt;/strong&gt; thermal runaway protection! I.e. if your hot end thermistor would fall out of the nozzle block, the firmware would detect the temperature drop and will keep sending current even if it does not measure a temperature rise. This leads to an overheated nozzle and is definitely considered to be a fire hazard!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit&lt;/strong&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The answers to question &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/5558/how-to-increase-bed-temperature-over-103-degrees&quot;&gt;How to increase bed temperature over 103 degrees&lt;/a&gt; are of great value to this question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-09-06T21:57:05.597" LastActivityDate="2018-09-06T21:57:05.597" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6405" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6399" CreationDate="2018-07-15T14:16:15.513" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;When homing the printer, the hot end carriage will be instructed to hit the (mechanical or optical) end stops. From this point a well configured firmware knows where to find the origin of the heat bed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the printer to know the origin of the bed, offsets are defined in the firmware from the end stop locations to the actual origin of the heat bed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;E.g. in Marlin Firmware this is defined by&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt; #define X_MIN_POS -35 ; move the head 35 mm to the right to place the &#xA;                       ; nozzle at X = 0&#xA; #define Y_MIN_POS -8  ; move the head 8 mm to the back (or the plate&#xA;                       ; forward) to place the nozzle at Y = 0&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you change the hardware (e.g. carriage), you need to re-calibrate the movement from the end stop location to the origin of the bed. Note that any arbitrary point on the heat bed can be used to re-calibrate this. E.g. the center of the bed can also be used, and is frequently much more easy to re-calibrate as the heated beds usually have rounded corners or are slightly larger than the actual print area (e.g. I have a 300 x 300 mm heat bed that actually measures 315 x 315 mm). Printing a large square on the heat bed will therefore give you a good impression of the offset of the nozzle due to your new carriage design. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that, if you cannot or will not flash new firmware, an alternative solution exists to set new incremental offset values using the &lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#M206:_Offset_axes&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;code&gt;M206&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/a&gt; command &lt;strong&gt;IF&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#M206:_Offset_axes&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;your current firmware supports&lt;/a&gt; this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A detailed description to re-calibrate is found in answer &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/6376/5740&quot;&gt;How to center my prints on the build platform?&lt;/a&gt; or in external link &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2280529&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Bed center calibration&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2018-08-13T21:02:59.207" LastActivityDate="2018-08-13T21:02:59.207" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6406" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6355" CreationDate="2018-07-15T15:14:45.077" Score="3" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Blob &amp;amp; Cut&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A different approach is to move to a position out off the print bed, then extrude a long piece of filament and then move forward, cutting the filament at the edge of the print surface. A sample G-code that needs to be adjusted to your bed:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;G28&#xA;G1 Y-5 X5 Z0.1 F500    ; Move off the print surface, a bit above the 0&#xA;G92 E0                 ; reset extrusion distance&#xA;G1 F200 E10            ; extrude 10mm of feed stock&#xA;G92 E0                 ; reset extrusion distance&#xA;G1 Y2 F500             ; Move into the print platform&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:29:41.667" LastActivityDate="2018-07-15T15:14:45.077" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6407" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-07-16T00:29:13.920" Score="5" ViewCount="119" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am looking to purchase a 3D printer for the fabrication of microfluidics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am looking for a printer that can print channels with less than 200&amp;nbsp;µm cross-sections, preferably, can print optically transparent and biocompatible material, and costs less than $10,000. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas/recommendations? Could be any printer type (i.e. SLA, FDM, PolyJet).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12347" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2018-09-16T12:37:22.010" LastActivityDate="2018-09-16T12:37:22.010" Title="What printer should I consider for printing microfluidic channels?" Tags="|print-quality|3d-design|print-material|desktop-printer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2018-07-23T11:34:47.243" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6408" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6377" CreationDate="2018-07-16T09:35:23.443" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a possible cause for my problems. XT is sensitive to moisture (hydrolytical stability) When I extruded 20mm filament manually, the string felt a bit rough. When I looked closer very tiny bubbels where visible. I baked the filament at 60°C for 2 hours.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The baked filament allowed me to print a perfect model. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But after one print the filament is again affected by moisture so I need to build a dry-box and do some more tests before I come to a conclusion. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9303" LastActivityDate="2018-07-16T09:35:23.443" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6409" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6465" CreationDate="2018-07-16T13:43:05.273" Score="1" ViewCount="318" Body="&lt;p&gt;I made a simple extrude on a sketch in Fusion 360:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CaaYa.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Fusion 360 extrude&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CaaYa.png&quot; alt=&quot;Fusion 360 extrude&quot; title=&quot;Fusion 360 extrude&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But what MakerBot software shows me in the preview is&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KnCJo.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;MakerBot preview of extrude&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KnCJo.png&quot; alt=&quot;MakerBot preview of extrude&quot; title=&quot;MakerBot preview of extrude&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can someone explain how to make it print a smooth wall? Mesh of the model also seems to be okay. Configuration is in the high preset.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12349" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-07-16T14:05:49.473" LastActivityDate="2018-07-25T11:28:27.987" Title="Why does MakerBot software shows holes in the wall of a 3d model?" Tags="|3d-models|makerbot|makerware|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6410" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6412" CreationDate="2018-07-16T19:07:06.840" Score="10" ViewCount="2295" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am wondering if this piece of G-code is valid:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;G0 (Some comment (Its G0 command)) Y10 Z-5&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have tested this on my Chinese CNC machine and it strips out the comment and works flawlessly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The machine processes this as &lt;code&gt;G0Y10Z-5&lt;/code&gt; which seems like the correct approach to me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have however never seen such comment in real CNC practise.&#xA;It would be nice if anyone is able to test it out on their CNC/3D Printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many G-code simulators on the internet fail to process such a line in their parser so it makes me confused. I haven't found anything about it on RepRap Wiki or even Google.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12353" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-07-16T20:33:23.487" LastActivityDate="2018-07-16T20:33:23.487" Title="Are parentheses allowed within a G-code comment?" Tags="|g-code|cnc|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6411" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6410" CreationDate="2018-07-16T19:26:10.193" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is not universally valid G-code, and how it is handled depends on the implementation. You can use this style of comment on &lt;em&gt;some&lt;/em&gt; machines, but not all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The way parsing used to be implemented in Marlin (a very common 3D printer firmware), it would work fine unless the comment string included a X, Y, Z, E or F character. The parser simply looks for the first occurrence of X/Y/Z/E/F and then tries to parse the bit of text appearing after that character into a number. If the string cannot be parsed as a number, it defaults to 0 instead. For example,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt; G0 (Some comment containing the character Y) Y10 Z-5&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;would be interpreted as &lt;code&gt;G0 Y0 Z-5&lt;/code&gt; and not as &lt;code&gt;G0 Y10 Z-5&lt;/code&gt;, because &quot;) &quot; (the string appearing after the first occurrence of &quot;Y&quot;) does not parse to any valid number. Your example happens to work fine because the comment string doesn't contain any special characters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Marlin does support end-of-line comments, which should start with a semicolon and continue until the end of the line.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is how it used to work in older Marlin versions. Newer Marlin versions have a more advanced parser, but it still would not play well with these parentheses-style comments. It is best to avoid them, as compatibility is not guaranteed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastEditorUserId="26" LastEditDate="2018-07-16T19:55:08.223" LastActivityDate="2018-07-16T19:55:08.223" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6412" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6410" CreationDate="2018-07-16T20:13:26.167" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It looks like comments inside parentheses are not allowed in numerous parsers (ie. Marlin). This seems to be true for most of the 3D printers. Classical CNC milling machines use parentheses without problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It should work on Prusa printers as stated in their &lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#Comments&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Wiki&lt;/a&gt;. Unfortunately there are no words about nesting of the comments.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have however found a comment on cnczone.com forums regarding the nesting of comments within parentheses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Printable characters and white space inside parentheses is a comment. A left parenthesis always starts a comment. The comment ends at the first right parenthesis found thereafter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once a left parenthesis is placed on a line, a matching right parenthesis must appear before the end of the line.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Comments may not be nested; it is an error if a left parenthesis is found after the start of a comment and before the end of the comment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is an example of a line containing a comment: &lt;code&gt;G80 M5 (stop motion)&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Source: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.cnczone.com/forums/g-code-programing/103434-coments-g-code.html#post763510&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;cnczone.com&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12353" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:29:41.667" LastActivityDate="2018-07-16T20:13:26.167" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6413" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-07-16T22:56:30.507" Score="3" ViewCount="307" Body="&lt;p&gt;Scenario:  I'm cruising &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Thingiverse&lt;/a&gt;, and I find the awesomest thing.  I NEED THIS IN MY LIFE.  I download it, print it, and for whatever reason, it doesn't work quite right.  OK, no big deal, I'll just download the source because the maker was so kind, modify it ever so slightly, and I will have the most awesomest thing evar!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Several hours later, I realized that I could have designed it from scratch in a software that is way more user friendly, deterministic, simpler, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And then I &lt;strong&gt;do&lt;/strong&gt; redesign it.  From scratch.  Maybe taking a measurement or two from the thing, or something related to the thing.  And I refine it, and it turns out better than the original was.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Did I make a new thing?  Did I only draw inspiration from the previous thing?  Did I make a derivative work?  Using Thingiverse's terminology, did I remix it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm looking for some canonical guidelines to refer to for the US.  Thingiverse can be an example, but god answers should not be limited to Thingiverse, nor my specific example.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I ran into this issue while trying to print out a case for a Raspberry Pi Zero.  I'm not done redesigning it, but I've been wondering how I could share it on Thingiverse, and if any restrictions from the original model's licensing might affect me when I post my thing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5576" LastActivityDate="2018-07-27T11:14:07.990" Title="Where is the line between &quot;inspiration&quot; and copy and derivative?" Tags="|3d-design|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6414" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4632" CreationDate="2018-07-17T00:25:02.710" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Tevo Tarantula i3 owners on FaceBook is where I got marlin 2.0. Other things I tried didn't work, but this is working fine if you just want to add auto bed leveling using the standard SN04 sensor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12354" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-07-17T12:50:03.303" LastActivityDate="2018-07-17T12:50:03.303" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6416" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6413" CreationDate="2018-07-17T15:24:08.800" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;When you remix, either by modifying the existing CAD files (STL or sCAD or whatever), or by rebuilding essentially the same item from scratch, that &lt;strong&gt;is&lt;/strong&gt; a remix and subject to whatever restrictions the original author put on his work.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the critical issue so far as copyright is concerned is whether the output is a clear copy or remix.  No different from taking someone's novel and rewriting it using Notepad++ and LaTeX instead of the original Microsoft World.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, when remix or reuse is allowed by the originator, it is still incumbent upon you to provide proper attribution, just as you would provide footnotes and bibliography so as to avoid plagiarism in a research paper.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All that said, you are free to do whatever you wish in &quot;the privacy of your own home&quot; (IANAL and laws vary by location, but the chance that the copyright holder will track you down because you have a widget in your bedroom are nil). You can't publish or sell, of course w/o permission. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2191" LastActivityDate="2018-07-17T15:24:08.800" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6417" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6407" CreationDate="2018-07-17T20:08:33.083" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&quot;What Printer?&quot;&lt;/em&gt; Let's look at your options:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;FDM&lt;/strong&gt; is the cheapest route into 3D printing, and may be cheap enough to buy just as a learning tool, as many of the concepts of 3D printing are fairly universal. It will not however likely have high enough dimensional accuracy for consistent 200 µm holes, and parts are not usually considered water tight (They may be most of the time, but pinholes are somewhat common).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;BinderJet&lt;/strong&gt; binder jet is the cheaper of the options for printing with powder, where basically glue is deposited onto layers of powder to solidify a part. I have personally used one to create a sand mould to cast metal into without having to create a positive with which to make the mould (ie lost wax casting). It can also be used to print ceramics or metals that are then fired in an oven into a more solid part. In general the dimensional accuracy is going to depend on not only the precision of the glue deposition, but the input powder as well. It may be possible, but I've never seen a water tight part come out of a binder jet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;SLM&lt;/strong&gt; (SLS, DMLS, generally any metal printer with a laser (even sometimes an electron beam)) Can print quite high quality parts, but a 200 µm hole is pushing into the realm of difficult to achieve. Metal printers produce parts with a fairly rough surface (compared to a machined part), which is dependent on a lot of things, but primarily the input powder size distribution. Typical SLM printers use powder anywhere from 20 - 60 µm in diameter. With very small holes, you'll have to begin wondering about the likelihood that a hole will be sealed at some point by the random surface roughness exceeding the diameter of the hole. This also translates into a path with a lot of resistance, so pushing a fluid through it will require a lot of pressure. Again, I'm not in any sort of biological field, but I'm aware Titanium is pretty bio-compatible, and that is a *fairly commonly printed alloy (the current list of alloys that are pretty easy / standard to print isn't terribly long). Finally price: you can't afford it. I work with a relatively small (though somewhat high end) SLM tool at work, and I believe the final cost went up somewhere in the neighborhood of 500k.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;SLA&lt;/strong&gt; will likely be your best option. I don't have any experience with bio-compatibility (I'm a metallurgist), but there are many uv curing resin systems out there that are made for SLA printing. This is also likely the only type of system that can meet your dimensional requirements (water tight, small features, clear material, etc.) as well as your price target. Nothing can replace doing the research on your own, but this would be my choice. As for which SLA... (Note I'm fairly biased in this opinion) I'd look into Formlabs and possibly in particular their clear dental resin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;*PolyJet&lt;/strong&gt; I don't know much about this one. It seems like a cross between SLA and FDM, but it seems likely to be out due to cost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12350" LastActivityDate="2018-07-17T20:08:33.083" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6418" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-07-17T22:50:06.720" Score="0" ViewCount="966" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I have read this question, &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6030/connecting-anet-a8-2004-display-to-mks-gen-l/6044#6044&quot;&gt;Connecting (Anet A8) 2004 display to MKS GEN L&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That looked so easy, so I rewired the connectors and switched the VCC and GND pins. In the Marlin firmware I disabled the &lt;code&gt;MKS GEN L&lt;/code&gt; display and enabled the &lt;code&gt;ZONESTAR_LCD&lt;/code&gt; and &lt;code&gt;ULTRA_LCD&lt;/code&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yet when I run the printer, I only get the fully white rectangles. Is there anything else I have to do?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a compilation warnings now, because the &lt;code&gt;ZONESTAR_LCD&lt;/code&gt; redefines some of the pins that &lt;code&gt;ULTRA_LCD&lt;/code&gt; sets, but I guess that is ok. Could it be caused by still including the &lt;code&gt;U8glib&lt;/code&gt; library? Do I have to also remove some constant regarding this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12362" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-07-18T22:59:12.313" LastActivityDate="2018-07-19T06:07:29.527" Title="Anet A8 display on MKS Gen L board" Tags="|marlin|anet-a8|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2018-07-19T09:51:24.080" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6419" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6422" CreationDate="2018-07-17T23:22:59.773" Score="6" ViewCount="2021" Body="&lt;p&gt;I noticed that my version of Ultimaker Cura was out of date, so I tried to go to &lt;a href=&quot;https://ultimaker.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;their website&lt;/a&gt; and download a new version.  For whatever reason, I could not get the &lt;a href=&quot;https://ultimaker.com/en/products/ultimaker-cura-software/download-request/191&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;download link&lt;/a&gt; to work properly in Firefox with a slew of security extensions. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Where are reputable mirrors for Cura?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Download.Cnet.com and Sourceforge &lt;a href=&quot;https://duckduckgo.com/?q=download%20cura&amp;amp;t=ffsb&amp;amp;ia=web&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;came up as sources&lt;/a&gt;, but years ago they both &lt;a href=&quot;http://insecure.org/news/download-com-fiasco.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;went to the darkside&lt;/a&gt; (SourceForge: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.howtogeek.com/218764/warning-don%E2%80%99t-download-software-from-sourceforge-if-you-can-help-it/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;HowToGeek&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;https://thecomputerpeeps.com/2013/08/sourceforge-malware/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;thecomputerpeeps&lt;/a&gt;).  I don't see anything else that looks even remotely reputable in the search results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did some analysis, and it appears that the drop down and form don't work correctly if you select &quot;I don't want to share any personal information&quot;, leading me to think this is web page bug.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5576" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-11-15T07:06:55.910" LastActivityDate="2020-04-24T15:19:29.360" Title="Where is a reputable place to download Ultimaker Cura?" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6420" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6419" CreationDate="2018-07-18T03:44:16.577" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cura is a software tool developed by Ultimaker for 3D printers. There is a downloadable page for this tool: &lt;a href=&quot;https://ultimaker.com/en/products/ultimaker-cura-software/list&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://ultimaker.com/en/products/ultimaker-cura-software/list&lt;/a&gt;. There is no restriction to download it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm using Firefox on all my PC's and it can be downloaded with no problems, even if I'm using Windows XP, the main PC works at full speed with 3D models.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4454" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-07-18T05:36:07.823" LastActivityDate="2018-07-18T05:36:07.823" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6421" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-07-18T04:37:16.450" Score="4" ViewCount="2155" Body="&lt;p&gt;Problem:  Z-Axis doesn't work during a print.  It attempts to work, maybe climbs on the Z-Axis, but screws back down.  It whines, too.  But, Z-Axis DOES work while not printing.  It doesn't matter if the bed and nozzle heating or not, if it's not printing, it works as it should.  I don't know what else I can do to troubleshoot this problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Changed the Ramps 1.4 board twice&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Swapped drivers around, bought new drivers&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Swapped X-Axis and Z-Axis motor connections&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cleaned threaded rod.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Leveled two Z-Axis threaded rod riders to near atomic perfection.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Changed firmware to each of the 3 latest updates&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Remounted motor so both face same cardinal direction&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cursed&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Changed jumper configurations from 16th microstepper to 8th for more power.  No dice.  Fried two drivers that way.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Dialed and redial and tridialed and quaddialed the driver pots&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Recalled the Z-motors work while not printing so it isn't the driver pots&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cursed again&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Scoured the web for similar issues&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Looked for G-code that might limit Z-Axis elevation&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Died a little.  Just a little&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hardware:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;RepRap Guru DIY Prusa i3 V2 3D Printer Kit&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ramps 1.4&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A4988 Driver&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Firmware: &#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Marin 1.1.8, &#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1.1.7 (screen didn't function), &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1.1.6 (screen didn't function), &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;RepRapGuru_Marlin_v4, &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;RepRapGuru_Marlin_v2&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additional information:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;My power supply is the original 12&amp;nbsp;V 360&amp;nbsp;W supply with the kit.&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The 5 amp power in is 12.02&amp;nbsp;V, the 11 amp power port is 11.96&amp;nbsp;V and 12.18&amp;nbsp;V depending on which heater is on. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The bed measures 11.50&amp;nbsp;V and the hotend is 3.4&amp;nbsp;V&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;While heating the bed and hotend I am using the LCD screen and rotary encoder to move my axes. It works as expected until printing. I have upgraded to an aluminum 12/24&amp;nbsp;V hotbed from the original PCB.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Currently getting Repetier. Will update.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The z-axis leadscrew is M5-0.8 mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12364" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-07-19T15:20:14.153" LastActivityDate="2022-10-23T19:22:05.813" Title="Z-Axis doesn't work only during printing" Tags="|prusa-i3|ramps-1.4|z-axis|stepper|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6422" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6419" CreationDate="2018-07-18T06:15:57.747" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;The answer to your question is: &lt;strong&gt;&amp;quot;From the application developer itself!&amp;quot;&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Below is the explanation how you can (directly) download Ultimaker Cura from the most reputable source: Ultimaker.com&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Regular download&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When clicking the &lt;a href=&quot;http://ultimaker.com/en/products/ultimaker-cura-software/list&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;link to download&lt;/a&gt; of the Cura application download button from the &lt;a href=&quot;https://ultimaker.com/en/products/ultimaker-cura-software&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Ultimaker website&lt;/a&gt; you are presented with a pop-up GUI that asks you if you want to share where you are using the program for. When you select the required field and press download, the download starts. If this doesn't work, a direct download approach can be used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Direct download&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the regular download method fails, or you do not get the pop-up GUI, you can use the direct link for Ultimaker Cura from the developer's website:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://download.ultimaker.com/cura/Ultimaker_Cura-4.1.0-win64.exe&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://download.ultimaker.com/cura/Ultimaker_Cura-4.1.0-win64.exe&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strike&gt;This link can be found at the download directory at the website:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://download.ultimaker.com/current/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://download.ultimaker.com/current/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This web directory overview also shows all previous releases and installers for other platforms.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As of version 3.6.0, the download does not appear to be in the list, this link will show an overview: &lt;a href=&quot;https://ultimaker.com/en/products/ultimaker-cura-software/list&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://ultimaker.com/en/products/ultimaker-cura-software/list&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;Do note that the latter link will show the pop-up.&lt;/strike&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;As of version 4.1, the web directory overview link will serve a 404.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Github&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Ultimaker Cura Project has a Github, where they offer the current and previous editions under:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/Ultimaker/Cura/tags&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://github.com/Ultimaker/Cura/tags&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:29:41.667" LastActivityDate="2020-04-24T15:19:29.360" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6423" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6421" CreationDate="2018-07-18T12:30:33.740" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would check the gcode you're generating to make sure it's not full of &amp;quot;bad&amp;quot; z-commands.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Further, I'd take any gcode file you have and manually edit it, leaving in all the initializations, heatings, zeroing, etc.,  and then delete everything except some z-motion commands.  Run that as a test case to see what happens.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I  think it's extremely unlikely that the gantry has enough mass to force the z-screws to counter-rotate (lowering the gantry), and you'd see that with power off in any case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;edit&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As Greenonline discovered, a &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/4031/would-using-a-leadscrew-with-1-or-2-mm-lead-en-lieu-of-8-mm-result-in-a-better/4038#comment5535_4038&quot;&gt;bad choice of lead screw&lt;/a&gt; might cause the behavior you're seeing.  It would be a bit scary if a stock kit such as the one you bought provided high-pitch Z-screws.  Better check that out!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2191" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:29:41.667" LastActivityDate="2018-07-18T14:45:55.017" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6424" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6421" CreationDate="2018-07-18T18:03:12.647" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;From &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6421/z-axis-doesnt-work-only-during-printing#comment9763_6421&quot;&gt;your comment&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;the z-axis leadscrew is m5-.8&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I presume that your lead is 8&amp;nbsp;mm? You don't state whether it is a threaded rod or a leadscrew, so I will presume that it is a leadscrew.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If so, then I would suggest that you choose a different leadscrew, one with a lesser lead, say 2&amp;nbsp;mm or 4&amp;nbsp;mm. This is because, for a 8&amp;nbsp;mm lead, the stepper motor has to lift the X-axis gantry by 8&amp;nbsp;mm upon one rotation, which requires four times the amount of work that would be required to lift the X-axis gantry by just 2&amp;nbsp;mm if a rod with a 2&amp;nbsp;mm lead is used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So you need to either:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Change/upgrade your stepper motors to ons with more torque, or;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Change the rods, for some with a smaller lead.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending where you are in the world, one option may be cheaper than the other. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;If you are going to upgrade your rods&lt;/em&gt;, then change from a &lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/wiki/Threaded_rod&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;threaded rod&lt;/a&gt; (if you are using one), to a &lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/wiki/Threaded_rod#Leadscrew&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;leadscrew&lt;/a&gt;, as they are much better quality, have less friction, more precision and less wobble. However, you may also have to change your [rotary] fittings, i.e. the nut that goes around the rod - although you would have to do that anyway if you change your threaded rod for one with a lesser lead. Also, many threaded rods, and leadscrews, come with the rotary fittings included.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, you state that your threaded rod/leadscrew is M5. Again, if you are going to have to change it, it might also be worth changing from M5 to M8, see &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/5589/lead-screws-m8-instead-of-m5?rq=1&quot;&gt;Lead screws - M8 instead of M5?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a more in depth explanation, see &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/4031/would-using-a-leadscrew-with-1-or-2-mm-lead-en-lieu-of-8-mm-result-in-a-better/4038#4038&quot;&gt;this answer&lt;/a&gt; to the question, &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/4031/would-using-a-leadscrew-with-1-or-2-mm-lead-en-lieu-of-8-mm-result-in-a-better&quot;&gt;Would using a leadscrew with 1 or 2 mm lead, en lieu of 8 mm, result in a better printer?&lt;/a&gt; Here are some highlights:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A more aggressive leadscrew will require more torque to drive. We have one kit printer we bought a couple years ago that has an overly aggressive multi-start leadscrew for the z-axis. The small motors included in the kit do not have the torque required to reliably start upward movement of the carriage, leaving it sitting there skipping steps until the carriage is given a little upward nudge to get it going (no, it's not a lubrication issue or a driver that needs turning up).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;(As Tom &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/4031/would-using-a-leadscrew-with-1-or-2-mm-lead-en-lieu-of-8-mm-result-in-a-better/4038#comment5535_4038&quot;&gt;points out&lt;/a&gt;) An 8 mm lead can result in the weight of the X-axis gantry (especially in a P3Steel) overcoming the idle torque of the stepper. As a result of this, the X-axis gantry can end up sliding down the leadscrew, in particular at power down&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that there is a difference between &lt;em&gt;pitch&lt;/em&gt; and &lt;em&gt;lead&lt;/em&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Pitch&lt;/strong&gt; is the distance between adjacent grooves on the rod, whereas;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Lead&lt;/strong&gt; is the distance travelled along the rod upon one rotation&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The difference depends upon the number of leads, or &lt;em&gt;starts&lt;/em&gt; that your threaded rod has.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thomsonlinear.com/website/com/eng/training/difference_between_screw_pitch_and_lead.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;What is the difference between screw pitch and lead?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QHdqn.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Pitch versus Lead&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QHdqn.png&quot; alt=&quot;Pitch versus Lead&quot; title=&quot;Pitch versus Lead&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4762" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-07-18T18:37:07.457" LastActivityDate="2018-07-18T18:37:07.457" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6425" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6421" CreationDate="2018-07-18T18:51:34.253" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Carl Witthoft, I think you are on to something with rogue commands limiting the Z-Axis.  Thank you for pressing me to try a new program.  Now I need to learn it...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, it works now.  The only difference is that I am printing from Repitier using Cora instead of using Slicer to make g-code for an SD card.  While, I am happy with the results, I am dissapointed that I still don't &lt;em&gt;KNOW&lt;/em&gt; the source of the issue.  There must be some command from stock Slicer causing issues.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12364" LastActivityDate="2018-07-18T18:51:34.253" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6426" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6418" CreationDate="2018-07-18T19:09:23.173" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ok guys I got it! It really was just what is the &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/6044/5740&quot;&gt;answer&lt;/a&gt; in the other question (&lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6030/connecting-anet-a8-2004-display-to-mks-gen-l&quot;&gt;Connecting (Anet A8) 2004 display to MKS GEN L&lt;/a&gt;)!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;My problem was:&lt;/strong&gt; I used jumper cables and some duct tape to hold them together ... and &lt;strong&gt;the only issue was, that I didn't insert it enough&lt;/strong&gt;. I got mad today and just pushed them really hard more into the AUX2 connector and it suddenly works!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12362" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-07-19T06:07:29.527" LastActivityDate="2018-07-19T06:07:29.527" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6427" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6435" CreationDate="2018-07-19T06:02:46.303" Score="7" ViewCount="7187" Body="&lt;p&gt;I made a few successful prints since I got my CR-10 two weeks ago and I didn't run into any major trouble. The printer is new.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Today I set it to &quot;preheat&quot; mode while I was preparing the SD card with the settings being 210°C for the nozzle and 60°C for the bed. When I wanted to start the print I noticed that the temperature showed as &quot;actual temperature&quot; on the printer's screen showed 233°C and it was going up steadily while the &quot;requested&quot; temperature was still 210°C.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thiking it might be a mis-manipulation on my part I powered it down for a few minutes (I got scared by the high-temp) and then powered it back on. I then immediately requested the print to start. The CR-10 heated up to the proper value, started printing and kept heating the nozzle. I stopped it at 217°C.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I looked for an answer on the internet but all I could find is people having trouble with the nozzle not heating at all ...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12378" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-07-20T09:54:45.717" LastActivityDate="2023-06-03T12:09:46.673" Title="Nozzle heats up past the setpoint and increases" Tags="|nozzle|troubleshooting|creality-cr-10|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6432" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-07-19T18:44:00.893" Score="3" ViewCount="1057" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am using a Prusa i3 with Marlin Firmware. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All the components of my 3D printer working fine. I have a problem with my Z-axis, it comes down and get pressed by the bed. I have tried adjusting the endstop switch and calibrated the Z-axis still Z-axis comes down while printing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;edit&lt;/strong&gt;: &lt;em&gt;- additional information -&lt;/em&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;em&gt;While printing the first layer is printing okay, but while filling the inner layer and continue with the next layers the nozzle actually drags and pressed the print.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can anyone explain why this happens?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12385" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-07-26T17:26:20.810" LastActivityDate="2018-07-26T18:17:41.877" Title="Z-axis comes down and presses the bed while printing" Tags="|prusa-i3|marlin|z-axis|endstop|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6433" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6432" CreationDate="2018-07-19T19:58:46.993" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;When the head/nozzle assembly runs into the bed, you need to watch out for:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check for &lt;strong&gt;Endstop&lt;/strong&gt; problems:&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is the &lt;strong&gt;switch properly wired up&lt;/strong&gt;?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is the &lt;strong&gt;switch working&lt;/strong&gt;?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is the &lt;strong&gt;switch mounted firmly&lt;/strong&gt; to the frame and correctly adjusted?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Level the bed as level as possible&lt;/strong&gt;; what is meant here is that the bed needs to be parallel to the X-axis, not bubble level. This ensures that the nozzle is exactly at the same distance away at every point on the build platform. You achieve this by setting the Z endstop as such that the nozzle is close to build platform with platform screws screwed in for some distance. When the endstop is firmly attached, home the printer through the menu of the printer, try adjusting the screws such that the level is everywhere the same (in between changing the location of the nozzle carriage to set the level, home the machine once in a while). Use a piece of paper for the correct distance; a slight resistance felt when dragging the paper is sufficient. Please note that it makes a difference when you level the bed cold or hot, hot is preferred.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Slicer settings&lt;/strong&gt;; Be sure that your slicer doesn't introduce a Z offset.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT&lt;/strong&gt;:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;em&gt;With respect to the additional information, you really need to check the level of the bed, level with a hot bed and a hot nozzle (e.g. PLA temperatures of respectively 60 &amp;deg;C/190 &amp;deg;C). Furthermore, be sure that you get enough adhesion. Use (sanded and cleaned) tape, hairspray, glue stick or whatever trick you can find to get the filament to stick well enough that it won't be picked up by the nozzle and dragged around. For me personally printing directly on the aluminium bed with 3DLAC (sort of super strong hairspray) or on glass works best, I'm not a fan of tape.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-07-26T18:17:41.877" LastActivityDate="2018-07-26T18:17:41.877" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6435" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6427" CreationDate="2018-07-20T06:25:44.760" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is not an easy one to solve, the firmware of the printer should be keeping the printer at a certain temperature depending on the temperature setting and the current value. If the firmware is not able to keep the temperature at the requested level, but goes beyond that level, that could be considered &quot;strange&quot;. As it measures the temperature (and reports it on your display) it must know that it is over the limit and thus should not power the hotend.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this process there are a few possible candidates for you to look at:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check for a faulty &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/MOSFET&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;MOSFET&lt;/a&gt; (sort of an electronic switch) on your controller board (is it leaking current to the hotend?). &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check and or update the current settings for the &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/PID_controller&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;PID&lt;/a&gt; values (settings for the control loop of the hotend). The PID values control the overshoot of the temperature. E.g. is this is very large overshoot? When incorrectly configured the temperature can get higher, but normally should never increase to infinity, are you sure it keeps rising? The determination of the new values is called &lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/wiki/PID_Tuning&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;PID tuning&lt;/a&gt;. Important commands (that need to be send over a USB connected printer with a 3D printer terminal application like Repetier Host, OctoPrint or Pronterface):&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#M503:_Print_settings&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;M503&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/wiki/G-code&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;G-code&lt;/a&gt; command shows the current settings (somewhere in the heap of all settings).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#M303:_Run_PID_tuning&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;M303&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/wiki/G-code&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;G-code&lt;/a&gt; command can determine the values.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Reflash the firmware&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Replace the printer controller board&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could replace the thermistor and the heater cartridge (just to be sure, most definitely not the problem, but they are really cheap to replace). The thermistor works as it reports the temperature, and the heater element doesn't get powered by itself. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As suggested below &lt;strong&gt;the most likely candidate for your problem is the MOSFET&lt;/strong&gt;. These are pretty easy to replace (depending on your board) or replaceable by an external MOSFET module (if you happen to have one lying around).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-07-20T11:46:41.223" LastActivityDate="2018-07-20T11:46:41.223" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6436" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6398" CreationDate="2018-07-21T09:30:35.550" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I propose examining the current voltage of the motor and the arm. The fluctuation of voltage causes the noise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12397" LastActivityDate="2018-07-21T09:30:35.550" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6437" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-07-21T10:13:02.250" Score="2" ViewCount="1364" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm currently working on a project which uses two extruders. One for making an impression in a powder and other one to dispose a liquid in to the impression made by the first extruder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm currently manually writing gcode for the purpose, and have some doubts about gcodes and setting up a second extruder. I've once configured a dual extruder system, but it uses old marlin and current one has a variety of dual extruder system, so confused about which one to choose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Firmware : Marlin 1.1.6&#xA;&#xA;Machine : custom made&#xA;&#xA;Board :  Ramps 1.4&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;configuration file : &lt;a href=&quot;https://drive.google.com/open?id=1Qeft8orIKeWt8YXmcQD-qB6OTy9slEKw&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Configuarion&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Dual extruder setup: two nozzles with separate stepper motor for each nozzle. For the sake of simplicity let's say something like &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.robotdigg.com/product/243/MK7-Dual-Stepextruder&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which category does this one go?? By reading marlin documentation it doesn't belong to any special category (???)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I only changed following in FW,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#define EXTRUDERS 2&#xA;&#xA;#define TEMP_SENSOR_0 5&#xA;#define TEMP_SENSOR_1 5&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tested by sending T0 and T1 to select extruders and extruding them&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do I have to change anything else??&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the test gcode:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;G28       ;home&#xA;&#xA;T0        ;select extruder 1&#xA;G0 X20    ;move to X 20&#xA;G92 E0    ;set current position of extruder as 0&#xA;G1 E10    ;extrude 10 mm&#xA;G92 E0    ;set current position of extruder as 0&#xA;G1 E-10   ;retract 10 mm&#xA;&#xA;T1        ;select extruder 2&#xA;G92 E0    ;set current position of extruder as 0&#xA;G1 E5     ;extrude 5 mm&#xA;G4 P500   ;give a delay of 500 ms before next move&#xA;&#xA;T0&#xA;G0 X 30&#xA;G92 E0&#xA;G1 E10&#xA;G92 E0&#xA;G1 E-10&#xA;&#xA;T1&#xA;G92 E0&#xA;G1 E5&#xA;G4 P500&#xA;&#xA;T0&#xA;G0 X 40&#xA;G92 E0&#xA;G1 E10&#xA;G92 E0&#xA;G1 E-10&#xA;&#xA;T1&#xA;G92 E0&#xA;G1 E5&#xA;G4 P500&#xA;&#xA;T0&#xA;G0 X 50&#xA;G92 E0&#xA;G1 E10&#xA;G92 E0&#xA;G1 E-10&#xA;&#xA;T1&#xA;G92 E0&#xA;G1 E5&#xA;G4 P500&#xA;&#xA;T0&#xA;G0 X 60&#xA;G92 E0&#xA;G1 E10&#xA;G92 E0&#xA;G1 E-10&#xA;&#xA;T1&#xA;G92 E0&#xA;G1 E5&#xA;G4 P500&#xA;&#xA;T0&#xA;G0 X70&#xA;G92 E0&#xA;G1 E10&#xA;G92 E0&#xA;G1 E-10&#xA;&#xA;T1&#xA;G92 E0&#xA;G1 E5&#xA;G4 P500&#xA;&#xA;T0&#xA;G0 X70&#xA;G92 E0&#xA;G1 E10&#xA;G92 E0&#xA;G1 E-10&#xA;&#xA;T1&#xA;G92 E0&#xA;G1 E5&#xA;G4 P500&#xA;&#xA;T0&#xA;G0 X80&#xA;G92 E0&#xA;G1 E10&#xA;G92 E0&#xA;G1 E-10&#xA;&#xA;T1&#xA;G92 E0&#xA;G1 E5&#xA;G4 P500&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What it does is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;After homing, move to given position&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Activate extruder 1 and extrude some(make impression)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;then activating extruder 2 and extrude&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;move to next position and repeate&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I actually want is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;After homing, move to given position&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Activate extruder 1 and extrude some (make impression)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;then activating extruder 2 &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;move extruder 2 to the position where extruder 1 extruded material&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Extrude material (by extruder 2)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Move to next position and repeat&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;one way to achieve this is add an additional code after enabling extruder 2&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;eg:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;T0&#xA;G0 X 20&#xA;G92 E0&#xA;G1 E10&#xA;G92 E0&#xA;G1 E-10&#xA;&#xA;T1&#xA;G0 X15   ; if X offset of E2 from E1 is 5mm, assuming no Y offset&#xA;G92 E0&#xA;G1 E5&#xA;G4 P500&#xA;&#xA;T0&#xA;G0 X 30&#xA;G92 E0&#xA;G1 E10&#xA;G92 E0&#xA;G1 E-10&#xA;&#xA;T1&#xA;G0 X25&#xA;G92 E0&#xA;G1 E5&#xA;G4 P500&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In plastic extrusion this is normally done by setting offset in Slic3r. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any other way to do this, position E22 to the position of E1.&#xA;Is there any specific G/Mcode for it??&#xA;There's a provision to set offset in Marlin. But this is what it says in marlin documentation &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&quot;Z hotend offset only available with DUAL_X_CARRIAGE or SWITCHING_NOZZLE.&quot;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does it work with normal dual extruders.?(Does mine come under any two system mentioned above?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10670" LastActivityDate="2018-07-23T13:01:10.293" Title="Positioning Extruders after Tool change : Marlin 1.1.6" Tags="|marlin|dual-nozzle|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6438" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-07-21T10:19:19.183" Score="4" ViewCount="275" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am searching for 3D printing filaments, that are suitable for outdoor purposes, but printable on unheated beds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I will mostly use it for sensor node enclosures (should withstand temperature up to 50°C/120°F) and car accessories (70°C/160°F).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it requires annealing, it should have low shrinkage, since I will be printing parts that will fit into each other.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10684" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2018-08-18T09:24:49.083" LastActivityDate="2022-11-21T11:44:15.910" Title="Which outdoor filaments for unheated beds?" Tags="|filament|filament-choice|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6439" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-07-21T12:46:33.373" Score="9" ViewCount="1653" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is hot glue suitable for FDM printing, or some process similar to it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think it has all of the required properties, and could produce a flexible transluscent print.  It's cheap, hotends are cheap, and the technology has been around for a while.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I couldn't find any examples or anyone talking about such a material for use, on here or the general Internet.  I wonder if there are tradeoffs or challenges that make it not worth pursuing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5576" LastActivityDate="2024-03-26T21:42:11.873" Title="Is hot glue suitable for FDM printing?" Tags="|print-material|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6440" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6439" CreationDate="2018-07-21T13:24:32.093" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could mount a hot glue gun to a 3D positioning frame, but you would immediately notice the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hot glue sticks are fat, so you lose a lot of precision for each feed/retract increment. I.e., it's a lot harder to get precise feeds with a fat stick because the stick size is so much larger than the nozzle.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hot glue sticks are short, so you would to create a filament to spool the stuff or come up with a glue stick feeder.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hot glue melts at 120 &amp;deg;C and common plastics such as nylon melt at much higher temperatures. So hot glue would make an AWFUL structural part like a stepper mount. Even PLA barely deals with stepper temperatures. Note that temperature tolerance is irrelevant for costume parts.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hot glue is soft, which makes it a great glue, but not very stiff for, say, making parts for a 3D printer. However, the parts might be fine for  use only in costumes, etc.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But, if you then used your 3D glue printer to dispense glue for gluing stuff together, well...that might be valuable. :D&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10938" LastEditorUserId="10938" LastEditDate="2018-07-24T14:30:57.447" LastActivityDate="2018-07-24T14:30:57.447" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6441" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6438" CreationDate="2018-07-21T15:03:25.030" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Considering your temperature requirements PETG could be used on unheated beds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;High operational temperatures for your products requires filaments with a high &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Glass_transition&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;glass transition temperature&lt;/a&gt; (the point where the plastic becomes soft). A filament with a high glass transition temperature causes filament to shrink considerably when the bed is not heated (as when the bed it heated, the plastic is soft and withstands the shrinkage stresses better). Basically, your requirements are in contradiction. You should be using a heated bed and ABS, or a high temperature resistant filament like a co-polyester.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Example of filament comparison&lt;/em&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EmYIE.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EmYIE.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Comparison of common and co-polyester filaments&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If a heated bed is no option, PETG is you most likely candidate for printing as many filament manufacturing brands say that a heated bed is optional. My personal experience is that PETG very much likes a heated bed, getting it to stick at lower temperatures is more difficult.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2022-11-21T11:44:15.910" LastActivityDate="2022-11-21T11:44:15.910" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6442" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6438" CreationDate="2018-07-21T15:16:07.100" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;PETG is good for your project.&#xA;You can also print transparent ABS on unheated bed with ABS juice.I tried transparent ABS in outside environment and it work fine.I live in India where outdoor temperature reach to 45C in summer.It is easy to print small parts.ABS juice may or may not work with large parts depending on your ambient room temperature.Ambient room temp should be above 30C for ABS on unheated bed.I suggest you to use a enclosure for printer if you are in cold area.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12398" LastEditorUserId="12398" LastEditDate="2018-07-21T15:25:11.810" LastActivityDate="2018-07-21T15:25:11.810" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6443" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-07-21T15:58:23.627" Score="7" ViewCount="3021" Body="&lt;p&gt;I own a DIY Hypercube Evolution equipped with Tevo Titan extruder, Clone Chimera hotend and Capricorn's High-temp PTFE tube. I use RAMPS with Mega and A4988's.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;During prints, my extruder motor randomly clicks. I touched the filament and during the clicks I'ven't felt any problems with extrusion. I looked at the motor shaft to control if it clicks at special angles or randomly, but it clicks randomly. My prints do look very good: clear and shiny.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do you have any suggestions? (the sound really gives me headache)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5665" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2020-01-13T13:44:43.670" LastActivityDate="2020-01-18T21:01:10.640" Title="Extruder Clicking without Extrusion Problems" Tags="|extruder|stepper-driver|bowden|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6444" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6443" CreationDate="2018-07-21T16:55:55.090" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Even though you may have acceptable extrusion, any clicking from that area of your printer is likely to be a missed step on the extruder motor. This may be insignificant with respect to print quality, but as you suggest, it is an irritation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are confident that your nozzle is clean of debris (which is likely), you could consider to raise the nozzle temperature a few degrees. If the nozzle is not applying enough heat to the filament, it may resist being forced through and a click representing a delay, allows that much more heat to be applied.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should not have to increase by much, certainly no more than five degrees.  It's also possible that you can slow the feed rate a bit to accomplish a similar result.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastActivityDate="2018-07-21T16:55:55.090" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6445" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6427" CreationDate="2018-07-21T17:57:32.610" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A similar condition occurred in my 3D printer. I solved the same. I checked all my connection and I came to know that I connected the thermistor of the extruder in the wrong port. So just check the connection of your thermistor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Actually my 3D printer circuit board frequently failed because of over current. I then added a multimeter in series with my power supply and the load, also a voltmeter across the voltage regulator. I then corrected every motor driver DRV8825 to a reference voltage of 0.6&amp;nbsp;V so that the maximum current supplied to each of the motor will be less than 1&amp;nbsp;A. All these made my circuit checked ok. Then I uploaded the G-code, but I couldn't print because my extruder gets heated about 280 °C and got reset and suddenly shut down the extruder supply. This continues to happen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then I reinstalled the Marlin firmware and I also changed the port of my thermistor. Now my 3D printer is ok and prints nicely. I also faced another problem while I gave the print command - it showed that the extruder and bed had started heating but it actually was not heating. So I reinstalled the firmware again and this fixed it. Now my 3D printer works OK. You just try for these steps:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check the connection.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Reinstall the firmware.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Try manually preheat the extruder, and just see whether it heats to infinity.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These are my working experience please try for these, I think it will help you. Just don't leave it you will get the solution. Keep on trying.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12385" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-07-26T19:59:00.387" LastActivityDate="2018-07-26T19:59:00.387" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6446" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6443" CreationDate="2018-07-21T21:16:23.427" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If an extra few degrees of heating the hot end does not work, you could try to increase the amount of Ampere through the steppers. Increasing the current will increase the torque of the stepper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The question is what your current  V&lt;sub&gt;ref&lt;/sub&gt; of your extruder stepper driver is. To get a &lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/wiki/Pololu_stepper_driver_board&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;maximum current&lt;/a&gt; of 1 Ampere you require a V&lt;sub&gt;ref&lt;/sub&gt; of 0.4 V if you have genuine Polulu A4988 stepper drivers with a 0.05 &amp;#8486; (R&lt;sub&gt;s&lt;/sub&gt;). Chinese drivers often have a different sensing resistor (R&lt;sub&gt;s&lt;/sub&gt; = 0.1 &amp;#8486;). With formula:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;code&gt;Vref = I_TripMax * 8 * Rs&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can then calculate the V&lt;sub&gt;ref&lt;/sub&gt; to be 1 * 8 * 0.1 = 0.8 V.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2018-07-21T21:16:23.427" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6447" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6467" CreationDate="2018-07-21T23:34:38.153" Score="7" ViewCount="13324" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to modify some parts on &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2115095&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; thing. I'm kind of new to dealing with the modeling aspects of this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am attempting to widen the part essentially 3mm. This would involve modifying the chain segments, and the anchor points.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have already attempted this with 3D Builder and the result was less than stellar. I split the part, cloned off about 3mm of the middle of the X-Chain (including the top &amp;amp; bottom bits). The intent was to break the part, translate one of the halves off 3mm, add back the 3mm into the gap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I put all the parts back together and merged them in 3D Builder, the resultant model, while visually on screen appeared to be one piece, the slicing proved otherwise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a way that I can do the above in FreeCAD? I'm learning this so tutorial links would be more than sufficient. But if there is someone who can explain this process to me in FreeCAD that would also be appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5164" LastActivityDate="2020-02-03T22:57:30.617" Title="Split/edit part in FreeCAD?" Tags="|3d-models|stl|freecad|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6448" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-07-22T08:40:43.570" Score="5" ViewCount="7017" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use Cura for creating the G-code files for my (2 1/2 year old) Prusa i3. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have to put the prints in the corner furthest from the X-Y-Z origin symbol as the machine prints in the middle of the bed. How do I remove this offset?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12402" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-07-26T21:30:54.580" LastActivityDate="2018-07-26T21:30:54.580" Title="Prints to one side" Tags="|calibration|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6449" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6439" CreationDate="2018-07-22T11:50:04.753" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think not. Unless you intend to make a very special printer that feeds on glue stick, you must make filament from it. Should be doable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But my experience with cold hot glue, is that it is not very durable. It's a bit elastic but nothing like elastic filament. It breaks instead. So when you have your filament, I think you will have a bit of trouble handling it, feeding it into the printer etc. If you, for instance, clog the nozzle the slightest, the extruder will tear the filament to shreds very quickly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5395" LastActivityDate="2018-07-22T11:50:04.753" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6450" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6448" CreationDate="2018-07-22T11:59:44.103" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not being able to see your settings, or your G-code, it is difficult to say. If it is slicer settings related, a common mistake is that the &quot;origin at center&quot; option is active. You should remove the tick mark at &quot;origin at center&quot; in the printer settings of the printer profile you use in Ultimaker Cura. Your origin is not in the center, it is left-front.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another possibility is that the offset of your printer origin is way off. To check that you should connect the printer over USB and use programs as Repetier host, Pronterface, etc. to instruct the printer to go to (0,0,0) and see where the head ends up. You can also do this by printing a G-code file with homing code (&lt;code&gt;G28&lt;/code&gt;) and a movement instruction (&lt;code&gt;G1 X0 Y0 Z1 F1500&lt;/code&gt;). If the head moves to the left front, you know the printer is correctly setup, and you should look at the slicer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;E.g. when &lt;code&gt;M503&lt;/code&gt; is send in a terminal to the printer over USB, amongst the output you can find:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;...&#xA;Recv: echo:Home offset (mm)&#xA;Recv: echo:  M206 X0.00 Y2.00 Z0.00&#xA;...&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the X and Y values are high, this can also cause the printer to have a large offset.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-07-22T20:47:20.183" LastActivityDate="2018-07-22T20:47:20.183" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6451" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6464" CreationDate="2018-07-23T01:06:44.170" Score="6" ViewCount="1462" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am using a Flashforge Creator Dual Extrusion 3D Printer with RepG (&lt;a href=&quot;http://replicat.org/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;ReplicatorG&lt;/a&gt;), and tonight a print completely detached from the build plate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I reset everything and watched it closely.   It is a simple abs print at 230/110 degrees.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A few seconds after start of print, I noticed that the print bed temp had dropped to 109... and kept dropping.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is new behavior.  I haven't started to troubleshoot yet.  I am looking for suggestions on how to troubleshoot the issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit 1:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tonight RepG would not connect to the printer.  I reseated the USB cord &#xA;  and now it does.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The test print is ABS at 230/110 from this open scad.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;difference()&#xA;{&#xA;    cylinder(d = 10, h = 2);&#xA;    cylinder(d = 9,  h = 2);&#xA;}&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pᴀᴜʟsᴛᴇʀ2/Oscar&#xA;  Once the print starts the print bed begins cooling.  It is cooling before &#xA;  any filament is laid down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit 2:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Examination of the gcode shows the root cause.  It does contain&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;M104 S230 T1 (set extruder temperature)&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It does not contain a &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;M109 S110 (set build plate temperature)&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I manually add the M109 to the gcode file, the model prints normally, and the build plate temperature holds for the duration of the print.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The drop in temperature last week is due to the fact that I tend to preheat the printer before actually starting the print.  Since there was no M109 the bed plate cooled to ambient temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There isn't a hardware issue here.   Most likely it is a Rep G configuration error of some sort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit 3:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I resolved the issue by a fresh install of the latest Rep G.  I rebuilt the profiles from scratch with G Code to set the correct bed temp.  Thank you for your suggestions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1397" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2019-08-31T09:27:19.983" LastActivityDate="2019-08-31T09:27:19.983" Title="Build plate cools during print" Tags="|heated-bed|troubleshooting|flashforge-creator|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6452" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-07-23T03:32:06.820" Score="3" ViewCount="617" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm experimenting with MakerBot's new &quot;Experimental Extruder&quot; which essentially opens their software (MakerBot Print) to change traditionally &quot;behind-the-scenes&quot; settings like retract rate/distance, nozzle diameter, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am currently attempting to print with the following conditions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;0.8mm nozzle (brass)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;0.6mm layer height&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2 shells&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;5% infill&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;212 °C-215 °C extruder temperature&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The part is pretty much all an outer shell (see image)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NFm2hl.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NFm2hl.png&quot; alt=&quot;Top Perspective&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know that the results of testing the Experimental Extruder with a larger nozzle often required a lower extrusion temperature and the retract rate/distance to be increased. While testing the Experimental Extruder, personally, I found success increasing the retract distance to 0.850mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know that this issue can be resolved by adjusting the extruder profile, but I'm continually running into issues with self-resolving &quot;Filament Slip&quot; errors which inevitably result in &quot;Filament Jam&quot; errors. So, I'm obviously not making adjustments to the correct settings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's the PrintMode file for reference:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;{&#xA;    &quot;version&quot;: &quot;0.1.0&quot;,&#xA;    &quot;name&quot;: &quot;TBM0115 Draft 0.8mm Nozzle 0.6mm LH&quot;,&#xA;    &quot;settings&quot;: {&#xA;        &quot;brimsModelOffset&quot;: 0.02,&#xA;        &quot;doBrims&quot;: true,&#xA;        &quot;doRaft&quot;: false,&#xA;        &quot;extruderProfiles&amp;gt;0&amp;gt;defaultTemperature&quot;: 215,&#xA;        &quot;extruderProfiles&amp;gt;0&amp;gt;extrusionProfiles&amp;gt;bridges&amp;gt;feedrate&quot;: 50,&#xA;        &quot;extruderProfiles&amp;gt;0&amp;gt;extrusionProfiles&amp;gt;floorSurfaceFills&amp;gt;fanSpeed&quot;: 0.2,&#xA;        &quot;extruderProfiles&amp;gt;0&amp;gt;extrusionProfiles&amp;gt;floorSurfaceFills&amp;gt;feedrate&quot;: 50,&#xA;        &quot;extruderProfiles&amp;gt;0&amp;gt;extrusionProfiles&amp;gt;roofSurfaceFills&amp;gt;feedrate&quot;: 60,&#xA;        &quot;extruderProfiles&amp;gt;0&amp;gt;extrusionVolumeMultiplier&quot;: 1,&#xA;        &quot;extruderProfiles&amp;gt;0&amp;gt;nozzleDiameter&quot;: 0.8,&#xA;        &quot;floorThickness&quot;: 1.2,&#xA;        &quot;layerHeight&quot;: 0.6,&#xA;        &quot;maxSparseFillThickness&quot;: 0.4,&#xA;        &quot;modelFillProfiles&amp;gt;sparse&amp;gt;density&quot;: 0.05,&#xA;        &quot;modelFillProfiles&amp;gt;sparse&amp;gt;pattern&quot;: &quot;linear&quot;,&#xA;        &quot;extruderProfiles&amp;gt;0&amp;gt;retractDistance&quot;: 0.9,&#xA;        &quot;extruderProfiles&amp;gt;0&amp;gt;restartExtraDistance&quot;: 0.15,&#xA;        &quot;doFixedShellStart&quot;: false,&#xA;        &quot;extruderProfiles&amp;gt;0&amp;gt;extrusionProfiles&amp;gt;outlines&amp;gt;feedrate&quot;: 30,&#xA;        &quot;numberOfBrims&quot;: 3,&#xA;        &quot;numberOfInternalBrims&quot;: 3&#xA;    }&#xA;}&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="98" LastEditorUserId="4927" LastEditDate="2018-09-04T08:26:01.367" LastActivityDate="2020-04-12T06:07:54.603" Title="Replicator+ Experimental Extruder Filament Slipping Error" Tags="|print-quality|makerbot|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6453" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6451" CreationDate="2018-07-23T03:39:21.227" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your bed is obviously capable of heating up, so I would double check your cable for any kinks, cuts, blow-outs, or general connection issues both where your machine rests during warm-up and Z0 where your machine begins printing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most likely there is a poor connector or kinked/cut wire for the build plate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If that doesn't appear to be the issue, I might also suggest checking your power supply. I've heard of other similar machines' power supplies not being quite strong enough to support two extruders AND a heated bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="98" LastActivityDate="2018-07-23T03:39:21.227" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6454" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6452" CreationDate="2018-07-23T07:48:49.657" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;sub&gt;As the comment section doesn't allow to use too many characters, I've converted the comment into a proper answer.&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the question is stated that: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;... results of testing the Experimental Extruder with a larger nozzle&#xA;  often required a lower extrusion temperature...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is in contradiction with expectations. When the filament feed rate or volume increases, generally a higher temperature is required to heat up the filament because the resident time of the filament in the heatbreak and nozzle decreases. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As the filament heat up time is shortened by the increased feed rate you should either:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;increase&lt;/strong&gt; the temperature to get the filament center to also heat up. In fact, all your problems could be related to not heating up the filament too fast (filament jam or slip). When the center of the filament is not soft enough, it will be harder to push through the nozzle, hence the slip and the clogging, or&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;decrease&lt;/strong&gt; the print speed, decreasing the print speed will increase the filament resident time.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As an example, a nozzle/layer height combo of respectively 0.4/0.3 lays down 4 mm³ per 100 mm, a 0.8/0.6 combo delivers about 30 mm³ for that same distance! This is a lot of heat that is dissipated and needs to be replenished. A reduction of print speed by a factor of 7.5 (30/4) will also address the increase in heat up time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-07-23T21:28:37.743" LastActivityDate="2018-07-23T21:28:37.743" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6455" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6437" CreationDate="2018-07-23T09:19:24.273" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Interesting project your are working on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Does it work with normal dual extruders.?(Does mine come under any two&#xA;  system mentioned above?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The hotend/extruder you mentioned above is a E3D Chimera like system. And it is not suited for your application because you cannot lower/lift the hotends independently from each other.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;examples of these configurations&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;DUAL_X_CARRIAGE:&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;look at BCN3D sigmax dual extruder&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;SWITCHING_NOZZLE:&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;look at ultimaker 3 mechanism for lowering/switching the active hotend.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The above systems aren't well documentend and will be hard to make. &#xA;I advice you to look into an interesting blog post from E3D about a tool changer. It is opensource, well documented so you're be able to create one yourself with tool heads for your application. A spade to create patterns in the powder. And a liquid tool to fill the patterns.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9303" LastEditorUserId="9303" LastEditDate="2018-07-23T13:01:10.293" LastActivityDate="2018-07-23T13:01:10.293" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6456" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5754" CreationDate="2018-07-23T11:38:31.920" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Moving a printer would most likely affect the hardware rather that the software. Unless you have tinkered with the software over USB or loaded an unknown G-code file over SD card that has embedded G-code commands that change your settings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The most likely solution is that the printer or parts of the printer shifted as such that the printer is not aligned anymore as it used to be. Re-calibrating the machine should fix that for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-07-23T13:32:05.707" LastActivityDate="2018-07-23T13:32:05.707" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6457" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6398" CreationDate="2018-07-23T11:49:09.920" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Now that you have done some measurements, you could make some conclusions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The voltage over the fan is reported to be constant, but the current&#xA;  starts at 110-115 mA and reduces to 90 mA over time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With limited knowledge of electronics you can conclude that the resistance of the fan is not constant as the resistance determines the amount of current through the fan. So the fan resistance increases over time. This could just be a manufacturing problem or characteristics of the fan. You could try to replace the fan with another fan to see if this fixes your problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2018-07-23T11:49:09.920" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6458" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3372" CreationDate="2018-07-23T23:00:29.080" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I changed from &quot;Simple&quot; mode to &quot;Advanced&quot; mode, and the config imported fine. Though, I don't think it was my most recent config. C'est la software!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, I switched to Cura after this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5576" LastActivityDate="2018-07-23T23:00:29.080" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6459" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6447" CreationDate="2018-07-24T06:24:15.173" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;When you want to change an STL file in FreeCAD then this is how I do it. I open the STL file in FreeCAD and select the option in the &lt;code&gt;Part&lt;/code&gt;/&lt;code&gt;Component&lt;/code&gt; sub-menu: &lt;code&gt;Make a form from mesh&lt;/code&gt; (hope that I translated it well. I use the Dutch version). It can take quite some time but when it is finished you have an editable object. Just remove the STL object and do what you want.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you finished then you can perform all actions like if you created it from scratch with FreeCAD.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am a beginner in 3D design so there might be 'smarter' solutions. When I want 1 special part then I create as many cubes as needed and perform a MINUS action on the solid and a cube. After a while I end up with only the part I need.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6359" LastEditorUserId="6359" LastEditDate="2018-07-25T07:31:18.873" LastActivityDate="2018-07-25T07:31:18.873" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6461" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6439" CreationDate="2018-07-24T15:56:07.190" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, we have Hyrel users who print with Hot Melt Adhesive 3796 from 3M (essentially a high performance hot glue) with our Krakatoa series print heads.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2Qdcx.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Hyrel3D Krakatoa series, KRA print head&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2Qdcx.png&quot; alt=&quot;Hyrel3D Krakatoa series, KRA print head&quot; title=&quot;Hyrel3D Krakatoa series, KRA print head&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These heads don't print with filament; the user fills a metal reservoir with paste, gel, or even powder or granules, loads the reservoir onto the head, loads the head onto the printer, applies heat if necessary (some models up to 250C), and then prints the gcode with positive displacement. The KR2 is like the KRA above, but it is made specifically for higher temperature, higher viscosity materials, with tighter tolerances and multiple gaskets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have used this model head to print materials including hot glue, polycaprolactone, porcelain, vasoline, toothpaste, plasticine, and metal clays.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Watch &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QD2FrZ4kg1g&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Hyrel3D KR2 and TAM Overview&lt;/a&gt; for an overview of this head.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: I sell this equipment, and have used it since 2012.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4922" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2024-03-26T21:42:11.873" LastActivityDate="2024-03-26T21:42:11.873" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6462" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6487" CreationDate="2018-07-24T18:19:00.927" Score="0" ViewCount="256" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a new Tevo Tornado, which I have completed two good prints with, a 20x20 test cube from the supplied SD and the spool holder also from the SD. I say this to note that the printer was capable of producing a good print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Print 3 was a design I created in Fusion and it printed badly, very disappointing holes missing. Stringing gaps between material just rubbish. I downloaded a simple print from Thingiverse just to see if it was my poor design skills or the printer and that came out just as poorly: lots of strings between details. Both of these were sliced in Cura. As that doesn't have a tornado driver, I downloaded one from the support group and the prints have not even started properly, see pictures for example.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I might be going down rabbit holes here but this is what I have found and tried:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 relieved bed - done to ridiculous degree of accuracy, cold gross levelling then bed and nozzle at PLA working temp using feeler gauges. I have done 0.1&amp;nbsp;mm, 0.15&amp;nbsp;mm, 0.2&amp;nbsp;mm &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now I have added to the suspicion the z axis coupler see images below: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KX2DWm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;z axis flexible coupling#1&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KX2DWm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;z axis flexible coupling#1&quot; title=&quot;z axis flexible coupling#1&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KAWNmm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;z axis flexible coupling#2&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KAWNmm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;z axis flexible coupling#2&quot; title=&quot;z axis flexible coupling#2&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/djWvKm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;z axis flexible coupling#3&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/djWvKm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;z axis flexible coupling#3&quot; title=&quot;z axis flexible coupling#3&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;YouTube videos, that I have seen, show couplers that are not a spring - any thoughts? I would certainly appreciate the time anyone has to impart their knowledge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT 1&lt;/strong&gt;: (Additional information posted as comment, now moved to question)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;The print bed is brand new from Tevo the unit has only done a few prints most aborted, and I also thought perhaps a residue from the feeler gauges had contaminated the bed, but I have cleaned it with alcohol wipes and also tried putting prints on to unused parts of the bed. You are right the g-code from the test print was from an unknown slicer, no doubt tuned by the manufacturer the part I designed in Fusion was sliced by cura. I have since tried the original test piece and it fouls the extruder nozzle almost straight away.&lt;/em&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;The main differences and there are not many between the set up parts, are that the Cura code does a G92 E0 G1 F1500 E-3.5 before starting layer 0 (both set z0,3). The test piece just does a G92 E0 G1 F7200 the feed rates are different the cura print sets M204 S500 and the test sample sets no acceleration. I assume there is a default in the Marlin firmware.. there is no doubt some globs of PLA stick like in dots between the strings, but the extrusion between direction changes do not kind of like join the dots where dots stick and joins don't.&lt;/em&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;I am going to change the coupler because, well, I don't know what else to do. Replacing it with a better one can't help. Other things I have thought about - PLA temps - I have gone up the whole range according to the manufacturers bandwidth in 5 degree increments no difference I have also done some bed changes but neither hotter nor colder (it's 30°C and humid at the moment, so maybe a materials property issue, but then again no difference in conditions between a successful first test and all the messes). I am storing the PLA in a gel bead box to reduce humidity. still basically stumped!&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT 2&lt;/strong&gt;: (Additional information posted as comment, now moved to question)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Thanks for your observation, it's a new bed and I clean down with alcohol wipes ( isopropyl) I don't think I have ever put a finger on the bed - very aware of that. While I don't know what I am talking about on the one hand I am semi convinced it is not the bed, anyway I am going to get a glass bed in part to deal with the protruding screw head issue.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12416" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-07-30T10:12:04.357" LastActivityDate="2019-02-19T06:24:43.407" Title="Layer 1 won't adhere anymore" Tags="|z-axis|layer-height|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6463" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6462" CreationDate="2018-07-24T20:29:04.307" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &quot;springs&quot; connected to the stepper motors aren't a problem.  They are special shaft couplers which allow some relief if the motor mounts are not strictly perpendicular to the lead screws.  They are very rotationally stiff and allow just a little bit of misalignment between the shafts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first two prints were from the SD card.  You didn't talk about slicing from an STL file, so it is possible that they were pre-sliced for this machine.  Every G-code file has introductory code that initializes some aspects of the operation.  Check the &quot;preamble&quot; code at the front of the files you have sliced.  Are there commands that look different?  Is the Z parameter for the first layer different from the pre-sliced files?  Are there G-codes missing from the files you sliced?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are trying to understand what the G-codes do, &lt;a href=&quot;http://reprap.org/wiki/G-code&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this resource&lt;/a&gt; may be helpful.  Some possible commands could be commands to limit acceleration, jerk, speed, or introduce offsets.  Also check that the temperatures are being set correctly in the G-code you generated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you had sliced the files on the SD card, then double check that the parameters were the same.  Try re-slicing the object and comparing the G-code that is generated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2082" LastActivityDate="2018-07-24T20:29:04.307" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6464" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6451" CreationDate="2018-07-25T02:39:23.453" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Check your slicer settings.   Some slicers allow the temperature to change at a specified layer.   You may have programmed the slic3r to turn off the bed after the first (or maybe zeroth) layer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You call also examine the G-code for M140, M144, and M190 commands.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course,  the usual intermittent electric connections,  power supply failures,  etc. should be checked,  but don't overlook the possibility that it is working exactly as you are asking it to work. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2082" LastActivityDate="2018-07-25T02:39:23.453" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6465" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6409" CreationDate="2018-07-25T06:30:21.707" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I guess you are referring to the corner of the part facing you in the first figure, and the sliced corner on the left in the second figure and not the white lines on the wall facing you. This latter effect is called &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Moir%C3%A9_pattern&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Moiré&lt;/a&gt; or moiré pattern which is an optical illusion created by interference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This appears to be a slicer error or a rendering error, the walls are not finished. Furthermore from your sparse question it is noteworthy to say that you have sliced the model on a raft.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why not print the model, it will start a raft and when you come to the part it will clearly show whether it is a slicing or a rendering problem!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it is a rendering problem, keep continuing printing, if not, stop the print and download a most recent version of any other free available slicer tool. The most commonly used free slicer tools are &lt;a href=&quot;https://ultimaker.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Ultimaker Cura&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://slic3r.org&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Slic3r&lt;/a&gt;. Setup a printer profile and select and modify material and slicing properties to create a new G-code file for you to print. You can now compare the rendering of used new tool to your current rendering and print the model to see if the part now prints well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-07-25T11:28:27.987" LastActivityDate="2018-07-25T11:28:27.987" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6466" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6462" CreationDate="2018-07-25T14:27:09.833" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Based only on your title, and not on the content of the question, I would guess that maybe your print bed is not clean any more, and this is causing bad adhesion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are lots of bed surface material options - I guess you have some specially engineered high stick surface on this printer so you should check the manufacturer's specific direction regarding the print material since there is a risk (eg with PETG) of excessive bond strength requiring the use of a release agent in some cases.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I use kapton tape on my bed, and always wipe over with acetone or isopropyl alcohol before printing. Soap/water might also be effective - the problem which you're maybe facing is the oils deposited from touching the bed with fingers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4927" LastActivityDate="2018-07-25T14:27:09.833" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6467" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6447" CreationDate="2018-07-26T11:01:26.370" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found that the answer provided by @Marco was helpful but not the correct answer I was looking for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is the general approach I used (Based on &lt;a href=&quot;https://open-shelf.appspot.com/FreeCAD/en-US/34.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Create new document&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Import STL file&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Switch to Part workbench&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Select imported mesh&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Part -&gt; Create Shape from Mesh (use default tolerance)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Delete imported mesh&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Select shape&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Part -&gt; Refine Shape&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Delete &quot;unrefined&quot; shape&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Select refined shape&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Part -&gt; Convert to Solid&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Follow instructions in &lt;a href=&quot;https://open-shelf.appspot.com/FreeCAD/en-US/34.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;link&lt;/a&gt; provided.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Below is the list of instructions from #12&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Have shape loaded&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Switch to a plane that you would like to cut parallel to. e.g. XZ&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Switch to Draft workbench&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Draw rectangle around item to cut&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Upgrade using '^' up arrow (blue) in toobar&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Adjust the Placement Angle/Position via the &quot;Data&quot; in the property editor lower left side.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Switch to the &quot;Arch&quot; workbench&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Double click the solid to cut in the 3d view&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ctrl+click the plane you will cut with&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Select &quot;cut-plane&quot; and choose which side to capture&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will have to play around with the pattern in 12. The idea is to use the same Face created through 12 to cut the part at the same point twice. To create two halves. Take note of the position of the Face created in 12.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my case, I was attempting to stretch the part along the Y axis, so I was able to cut the part with an XZ plane (created in 12) and offset with a distance in the Y plane.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After performing this &quot;split&quot; I created a cross-section of the at the point of the cut and extruded the cross section 3mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Afterward, I was able to use the Edit -&gt; Alignment tool to attach all three parts back together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once attached, I selected all three and performed a &quot;union&quot; operation to make them all whole again, then executed the Part -&gt; Refine shape.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;End result was that I could make the chain links 3mm wider than the original.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm still working on tweaking out the other components that constitute this feature but still this is an interesting exercise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5164" LastEditorUserId="5164" LastEditDate="2018-12-05T20:37:39.890" LastActivityDate="2018-12-05T20:37:39.890" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6468" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6281" CreationDate="2018-07-26T12:19:18.923" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have solved completely, I covered the flat cable, with copper tape, this shield should be connected to the 0V of the power supply.&#xA;All disorders will disappear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12439" LastActivityDate="2018-07-26T12:19:18.923" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6469" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5968" CreationDate="2018-07-26T18:46:43.527" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have had some similar problems as you describe with my custom build CoreXY printer. I used an all-metal heat break for my 2.85 mm diameter filament. The heat break clogged up. I found that the inner diameter of the heatbreak, although specifically designed for 3 mm filament, narrowed down having a ledge inside. I replaced the heat break with a spare with a teflon tube inside, and never had any problems again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since then I scoured the internet to find some proper all metal heat breaks and order a few that do not seem to have that deficiency. I have not tried these (while hot, but when cold the filament also moves better through it and does not get stuck on a ledge like the first one), but will when I print POM and &lt;a href=&quot;https://colorfabb.com/pa-cf-low-warp-679&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;ColorFabb PA-CF Low Warp&lt;/a&gt; with my soon to arrive Olsson Ruby nozzle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-10-11T11:46:03.070" LastActivityDate="2018-10-11T11:46:03.070" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6470" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-07-26T19:58:14.087" Score="6" ViewCount="1167" Body="&lt;p&gt;I specifically want to test &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;calibration&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;tolerances&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;precision&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;accuracy&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm having trouble with Print in Place models and I'm trying to find out if there's something I can do to improve my print quality. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The printer I am using is a Kossel clone, specifically a FLSUN QQ and assume FDM printing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10422" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-08-14T16:43:25.247" LastActivityDate="2018-08-14T16:43:25.247" Title="What prints can I do to test/calibrate my printer for precision?" Tags="|print-quality|fdm|calibration|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6471" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-07-26T20:40:18.700" Score="3" ViewCount="382" Body="&lt;p&gt;Total 3D printing newbie here, apologies in advance if my terminology is wrong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a dual head K200 delta printer with a heated bed which I put together 8 months ago, but gave up due to frustration of the following error in Repetier:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;temp sensor defect marked defect&#xA;Error:Printer set into dry run mode until restart! &#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've tried again today, and all 3 thermistors (and the spare) work fine, but socket E1 on the BT7200 V1.8.26 RAMPS PLUS 2 is giving me -20&amp;nbsp;°C readings no matter which thermistor I put in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even though I’ve tried to tell it there’s only &lt;em&gt;one&lt;/em&gt; extruder (in Printer Settings), the display right at the bottom of Repetier still thinks there’s &lt;em&gt;two&lt;/em&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Today I've emailed the seller and the company I bought it &lt;em&gt;through&lt;/em&gt;, to see if they can help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the meantime - is there any way to make Repetier believe that I only have one extruder, or change things so that I can use the heated bed socket for the other extruder instead and just try to make due without the heatbed for now?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope you can help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12445" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-07-26T21:29:55.483" LastActivityDate="2018-07-28T17:30:20.473" Title="RAMPS PLUS 2 and E1 socket problem (K200 Delta, but related to the PCB , not printer)" Tags="|ramps-1.4|delta|thermistor|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6472" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6413" CreationDate="2018-07-26T20:54:57.057" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I should start by saying that I am not a lawyer.  I have been both the complainant and defendant in patent cases, and have had the role of observing copyright compliance for a performing arts organization.  With that in mind, the following is my own opinion and information.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ultimately, there is no simple answer to your question.  It would depend on the case law that applies to 3D printed objects, which is not very clear.  You are venturing into Copyright law, which is very different than Patent law.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, if someone had a patent on &quot;A Raspberry PI case with a &amp;lt;describe a novel, special, functional feature&amp;gt;&quot;, and you made a case with that feature, you would be in infringement.  It wouldn't matter if the case looked like the original, or was completely different.  If it included that patented invention, you would be more likely to lose if challenged in court.  The one thing about patent court prosecutions is that it is really rare that anyone actually &quot;wins&quot;.  The cost to put forward a case is very high, and usually someone runs out of money (sometimes even the &quot;good guy&quot;) before a decision is reached.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Copyright is much harder and softer at the same time.  Copyright can relate to the design feel of an object -- such as rounded vs. square, or using a trash can vs recycle bin icon.  Prosecuting a copyright violation of this kind would require that the aggrieved rights holder demonstrate that the design was copied, or at least derived in an unpermitted way, from the original work.  This is often more a matter of opinion than law, which is why the lawyers matter, as well as the judge and potential jury.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Technically, you are not free to do whatever you wish in the privacy of your own home.  You are much less like to be detected and then prosecuted, and the penalties would be lower, but you are just as much in violation if you make one for your own use or sell them by the millions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The best way to handle it, if you are prepared for possible adverse reaction from the original designer, is to ask them for permission.  You can say ask for clearance to use, such as by saying:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;    &lt;p&gt;I loved your object &amp;lt;thing&amp;gt; on Thingiverse.  I plan to &amp;lt;put in your plans here -- make a few for me and my friends -- sell further varieties online -- whatever&amp;gt;.  Although I didn't copy your design, I would like to acknowledge that I saw your design before doing my own.  How shall I do that?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your next steps will depend on how they respond.  Most likely, they will either give you free leave to do as you wish, or they will ask for something.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This happens a great deal in music, and expensive and acromonious problems have developed over who actually composed a particular guitar riff.  You can pick up the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/search?q=stairway%20to%20heaven%20copyright%20case&amp;amp;rlz=1C1CHBF_enUS753US753&amp;amp;oq=stairway%20to%20heaven%20copyright%20case&amp;amp;aqs=chrome..69i57.5643j0j7&amp;amp;sourceid=chrome&amp;amp;ie=UTF-8&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&quot;Stairway to Heaven&quot; case here&lt;/a&gt;.  If you are doing this commercially, it is better to negotiate ahead of time.  If you are putting your object back on Thingiverse for sharing, I'd just identify it as derivative an get on with life.    &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2082" LastEditorUserId="2082" LastEditDate="2018-07-27T11:14:07.990" LastActivityDate="2018-07-27T11:14:07.990" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6473" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6471" CreationDate="2018-07-26T22:12:37.720" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Repetier reads configuration from the printer when a connection is established, so as long as it gets info about 2 heads it will display it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The best approach will be to disable heatbed or hotend directly in the firmware and reflash the printer. You could also swap pins on the board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you decide to reflash the firmware, you could check with producer if they have suitable one or use Marlin &lt;a href=&quot;http://marlinfw.org/docs/configuration/configuration.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;(this is a configuration guide)&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9730" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-07-28T17:30:20.473" LastActivityDate="2018-07-28T17:30:20.473" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6474" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6470" CreationDate="2018-07-27T00:11:58.960" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The best place to start looking is to go to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thingiverse.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Thingiverse&lt;/a&gt; and search on '&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/search?q=benchmark&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;benchmark&lt;/a&gt;'. There are a great many models there intended to test various aspects of printing. In fact you could search for example '&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/search?q=calibration%20benchmark&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;calibration benchmark&lt;/a&gt;' or '&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thingiverse.com/search?q=calibration%20test&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;calibration test&lt;/a&gt;' and get more specific examples.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Actually, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/nebogipfel/collections/benchmarks&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; is a collection I just made today of the benchmarks I thought most promising. Disclaimer: I haven't tried them yet!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12449" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-07-27T11:36:12.250" LastActivityDate="2018-07-27T11:36:12.250" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6477" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6470" CreationDate="2018-07-27T07:06:37.997" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a fairly open ended subject, but the different calibration/test models can be broken down into a few different groups. Although there are a few common 'standards', as soon as you get to looking at a specific parameter, you will need to look for something that is a good match for your problem (not everything on thingiverse is really 'useful), and work out how to use it for your adjustments. Ultimately, the specific model you're working on is the best test - and it may also be that this model is not optimal in some way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a print from my own test model which shows the slicer not handling my model very well, partly because the model doesn't respect the filament dimensions. It also shows how a variety of print details can be captured in a small (20 min) print.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xXK9zm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xXK9zm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Small Tower Tester by tsh2&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Basic Calibration&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a step that you might be tempted to skip on a non-diy printer, since it mainly focuses on the construction. The &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1278865&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;basic 20mm calibration cube&lt;/a&gt; (just a square) can  be used to test that your printer is dimensionally accurate, and is also one way to check your extruder steps/mm (extrusion is variable, x/y steps generally only change when the belt skips).&#xA;You can also use bigger shapes if you suspect that there are drive problems, and &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2664146&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;bed leveling&lt;/a&gt; might come into this group too, where you could use a one or two layer print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Test Parts&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These are small parts that might once have been considered hard to print, but now seem to be a standard reference for a 'good' print. Most people who have been printing for a while have a collection of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.3dbenchy.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;benchie&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.3dhubs.com/hub-academy/your-first-order-marvin-test-print&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;marvin&lt;/a&gt; prints. You might use these to quickly test a new filament, although the benchie is borderline large.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6Q9H0m.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6Q9H0m.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Marvin&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SMa9wm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SMa9wm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Benchie&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Detail calibration&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending what you want to focus on, there will be different things you can use. Temperature calibration towers, overhang and bridging tests, ripple tests (for acceleration), fan tests, etc. This is an area where finding a 'good' test part can be hard. You would want to make sure that the previous two classes of test show good all round performance (or have identified a specific problem) first, before trying this sort of test.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the print-in-place example, you might need to check extrusion/ooze/coasting, as well as checking linearity and orthogonality (it's no use if a circular part turns out to be more like a diamond with rounded corners). You also need to make sure your first layer is good, without a rim or warping.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Torture tests&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I put this in a group on it's own because it may not be as useful for tuning a printer as some of the others. This is a little bit more about showing off how good your printer is tuned - and is the origin of the benchie and marvin type models, just with the difficulty turned up a notch or two. Some print-in-place models might fit into this category.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4927" LastEditorUserId="4927" LastEditDate="2018-07-27T11:46:17.097" LastActivityDate="2018-07-27T11:46:17.097" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6478" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6470" CreationDate="2018-07-27T07:23:55.873" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Any print you make can be considered a test print!&lt;/strong&gt; But, specific test prints are easily found on the internet and lend themselves better for specific tasks. In order to improve your printer / print quality, you need to follow a meticulous series of tests and record the parameters you use to slice the model. Each test should be broken down into several print process parameters (and recorded) and tested for their effects (e.g. speed and temperature).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A general accepted strategy is to calibrate the extrusion process first and that look into the general accuracy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Filament deposition calibration&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An important aspect of printing is deposition of just enough filament (if you deposit too much the lines become wider, and so are the dimensions). To calibrate the extruder deposition of filament you can easily heat up the hot end, mark the filament with respect to a certain reference point and extrude e.g. 100 mm. Now measure the filament mark again with respect to the reference point to verify you actually extruded that same demanded amount.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Accuracy&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For general accuracy printing of 20x20x20 mm cubes is usually fine. Note that the print accuracy is generally determined by the printer (construction) itself, but can be influenced by print speed. Large speeds in combination with a large mass of the printer head can lead to positioning inaccuracies (like overshoot). That said, you should also look into the printer itself. Does it have play? Are the belts tight enough, but not over-tightened? Is the bed skew, or are XYZ perpendicular?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1278865&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;This cube&lt;/a&gt; is frequently used to calibrate the dimensions:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9gw7Tm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9gw7Tm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;20 mm XYZ test cube&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;sub&gt;&lt;em&gt;Please do note that the poster of this picture probably produced a dimensional accurate print, but still faces under extrusion (as seen from the gaps between the lines)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If dimensions seem to be off reasonably, e.g. more than 0.2 mm (depending on the printer construction) you could change the amount of steps per mm in the firmware. Do note that the steps per mm is mechanically determined by the belt and pulleys.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;More tests?&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even more tests can done to make specific filament adjustments. E.g. &amp;quot;temperature towers&amp;quot; can be printed to test the optimal parameters for filament flow and / or bridging (printing in air between two parts), or overhang (unsupported parts of the print). But, these last tests are not specifically designed for the issues you mentioned.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Tolerance test&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you have calibrated the printer to the ability of yourself and to the capacity of the printer itself you could try to print a dimensional printing &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2318105&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;tolerance test&lt;/a&gt;. Such tests are usually constructed by cylinder shaped (or diabolic shaped) objects in a housing that is slightly larger that the shape.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6RqTpm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6RqTpm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Tolerance test&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CPTqdm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CPTqdm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Diabolic shaped tolerance test part&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:29:41.667" LastActivityDate="2018-07-27T07:29:26.293" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6479" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-07-27T07:55:59.653" Score="6" ViewCount="1902" Body="&lt;p&gt;I need to replace the lid of my water kettle and am searching for a filament, that is suitable for this purpose. The requirements are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Stable at 100°C (212°F)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Resistant to steam/moisture&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Food-safe&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has anyone experimented with this or similar purposes?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10684" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2018-08-18T09:23:02.030" LastActivityDate="2018-08-18T09:23:02.030" Title="3D printing filament resistant to steam" Tags="|filament|filament-choice|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6480" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6479" CreationDate="2018-07-27T08:29:08.847" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are few materials that go up to that temperature and beyond.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A very nice generic overview is given by &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.simplify3d.com/support/materials-guide/properties-table/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Simplify3d&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;This figure shows an overview of many of the used materials in 3D printing&lt;/em&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/em4Xd.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/em4Xd.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When looking closely, and without pointing to specific brands (to avoid a commercial posting), your best chances for appropriate filaments for your application is to look at Nylon, Polycarbonate (do not consider Polypropylene; that is very difficult to print) or (not mentioned in the overview as they are more recent filaments) Co-Polyester polymers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2018-07-27T08:29:08.847" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6481" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6479" CreationDate="2018-07-27T09:58:06.947" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Referring to the table provided in 0scar's answer, the key challenge with high temperature materials is the gap between the glass transition temperature (bed temperature) and the extruder temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Polycarbonate for example is listed as usable up to 121°C, printing on a bed at 80-120°C, but requiring an extruder temperature of 260-310°C. This extruder temperature is potentially going to challenge the mechanical, thermal and measurement properties of a printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this application, you don't strictly require 100°C operation, so Nylon (80-95°C) and ABS (98°C) might be worth trying. Even if one side of the part is at this temperature, immersed in steam, the opposite side is exposed to air and convection cooling. Providing there is sufficient thermal insulation and internal rigidity, the upper shell of the part is likely to support it. However, if the inner face does start to flow it may take some time before a problem is apparent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So long as the material is not &lt;em&gt;soluble&lt;/em&gt;, absorbing moisture may not be a major issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When it comes to being food-safe, this is a huge can of worms, and you're really looking to investigate 'how much of a risk' rather than get a go/no-go answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4927" LastActivityDate="2018-07-27T09:58:06.947" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6482" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6479" CreationDate="2018-07-27T11:50:02.833" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recommend PEEK if you are able to print around 400&amp;nbsp;°C.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Polyether_ether_ketone&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Wikipedia - Polyether ether ketone&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RU7QR.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RU7QR.png&quot; alt=&quot;Wikipedia&amp;#39;s property chart&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As requested in comments, here is the setup I use to print small PEEK parts: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hyrel3D Engine, Standard Resolution (ESR): $2500 list&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hyrel3D MK1-450 print head for 1.75mm filaments between 300&amp;nbsp;°C and 450&amp;nbsp;°C: $450 list&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Please note that larger parts will require (and all parts will benefit from) a heated build chamber. &lt;br&gt;Also note that annealing PEEK parts after printing (we use a circuit board reflow oven) recrystallizes (strengthens) the PEEK (and is recommended, but not required).&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is one of our videos from 2015 showing the 410&amp;nbsp;°C prototype for this head printing PEEK: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Om9cjxMXuxY&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;YouTube - Introducing Hyrel's MK1-450 Printing PEEK and PC&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I work for Hyrel 3D. The company page is linked in my profile.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4922" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-08-18T07:30:08.133" LastActivityDate="2018-08-18T07:30:08.133" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6483" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6484" CreationDate="2018-07-27T12:18:53.717" Score="8" ViewCount="13353" Body="&lt;p&gt;For my &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2254103&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;DIY coreXY printer&lt;/a&gt; I use 2.85 mm filament that is fed into an E3D clone hotend using a Bowden tube and a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2897762&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;custom designed extruder with belt reduction&lt;/a&gt; centered around an Aluminium Bulldog extruder with an MK8 extruder gear. The reduction is necessary to create more torque to feed the filament correctly to prevent skipping and filament slipping and grinding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The prints show under-extrusion (e.g. shell lines and bottom layer lines not or barely touching).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I calibrate my extruder to extrude just enough filament?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2023-09-04T11:19:34.853" LastActivityDate="2023-09-04T11:19:34.853" Title="How do I calibrate the extruder of my printer?" Tags="|extruder|calibration|knowledgebase|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6484" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6483" CreationDate="2018-07-27T12:18:53.717" Score="12" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Basic process&lt;br&gt;&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To &lt;strong&gt;calibrate the extruder&lt;/strong&gt; you would need to &lt;strong&gt;verify&lt;/strong&gt; that the&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;requested amount&lt;/strong&gt; of filament is &lt;strong&gt;actually what is being moved by the extruder&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Structural or temporary problem&lt;br&gt;&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A first thing to check when under or over-extrusion is encountered for a fresh spool of filament on a normally good working printer is to check the diameter of the filament with a caliper (see image below) and change this value accordingly in the slicer software of your choice and make a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1278865&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;test print&lt;/a&gt;. If the problem persists or is present from the start of your purchase or build, please proceed. Note that there are two ways to change the extrusion, a simple solution is changing the extrusion multiplier in the slicer software, the better one is to fix the extrusion rate in the firmware.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HGF6W.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HGF6W.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Measure the filament with a caliper&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;em&gt;Please note that you should measure the filament diameter at several positions&lt;/em&gt;&#xA;&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;3D printer&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a difference between DIY and commercial printers. Usually a commercial printer of decent quality &lt;strong&gt;rarely&lt;/strong&gt; needs to be adjusted (as this is the job of the manufacturer). But cheap, commercial clones of well known printers, may need adjusting. Depending on the ability to change the settings of the software/firmware (closed or open source, or type of firmware), the user may (or may not) be allowed to change the values through configuration files or G-code commands.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For DIY printers, the builder is responsible for the printer as a whole and thus entrusted with the software/firmware setup of the printer controller board. The chosen printer firmware and its configuration should be done based on the printer layout and used hardware (also electronics like stepper drivers, remember the micro steps setting) which e.g. determines the amount of steps that are required to move an axis a certain amount of millimeters (steps/mm). This also applies to the extruder stepper. To start with a value of steps per mm, you could search the internet for your extruder type and recalculate the steps/mm roughly keeping your specifically used micro step value of the used stepper driver (which is set by dip switches or jumper caps an the printer board) in mind. With this basic setting you will be able to do a test.&#xA;&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Calibrate extruder (hot or cold)&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you have a printer, or build a printer and uploaded a rough setting for the extruder steps per mm, please test the amount of extruded filament. It is customary to mark the filament with respect to a certain reference point, then extrude e.g. 100 mm, and then check the distance the mark on the filament has traveled. The distance should be 100 mm, if not, you should change the value of the steps/mm in the firmware. To extrude 100 mm you will need to send instructions to your printer over USB connection using a terminal or graphical user interface typically found in freeware applications as Pronterface, Repetier-Host, OctoPrint, etc. or by creating &lt;code&gt;.gcode&lt;/code&gt; text files with specific instructions and load the models through the menu of the printer from e.g. SD-card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/wiki/G-code&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;G-code&lt;/a&gt; &lt;code&gt;G1 E100 F100&lt;/code&gt; commands the extruder stepper to move 100 mm in 100 mm per minute (please lookup if these G-codes are supported by your firmware!). Be sure that you have preheated the nozzle prior to extruding, many firmware's have built in protection to disallow extrusion below a certain temperature of the nozzle. For SD-card printing, e.g. for PLA you should &lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#M109:_Set_Extruder_Temperature_and_Wait&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;preheat&lt;/a&gt; the nozzle to e.g. 195 °C with &lt;code&gt;M109 S195&lt;/code&gt; and as such must be placed before the actual extrusion command.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the measured distance is different than the instructed length, a simple calculation will determine your follow up actions. E.g. if the instructed length of 100 mm is in reality 95 mm, the extruder should extrude &lt;code&gt;(100 - 95) / 95) * 100 = 5.2 %&lt;/code&gt; more, or similarly said, the extrusion needs to be multiplied by 1.052. This could be applied in the slicer, but when this is a structural problem you should fix this in the firmware itself. This can be done by adjusting the printer configuration file and uploading new firmware (and settings) or for some printer firmware solutions use the same method as previously used to instruct to extrude filament. The G-code for setting the extruder steps in Marlin firmware is &lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#M92:_Set_axis_steps_per_unit&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;M92&lt;/a&gt; if done with codes. If the original value (can be obtained with the command &lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#M503:_Print_settings&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;M503&lt;/a&gt;) is e.g. 400 steps per mm, the value should be changed to &lt;code&gt;100/95 * 400 = 421 steps/mm&lt;/code&gt;. The command &lt;code&gt;M92 E421&lt;/code&gt; will set the new value which can be saved to memory (so that it is available after a printer power off/on cycle) using &lt;code&gt;M500&lt;/code&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the configuration file approach is used, the following line in the configuration:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;/**&#xA; * Default Axis Steps Per Unit (steps/mm)&#xA; * Override with M92&#xA; *                                      X, Y, Z, E0 [, E1[, E2[, E3[, E4]]]]&#xA; */&#xA;#define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT   { 100, 100, 200, 400 }&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;needs to be adjusted to:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;#define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT   { 100, 100, 200, 421 }&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can do this a few times to fine tune the extrusion process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For people that have a Bowden setup and firmware that supports altering the minimum extrusion temperature, you could disconnect the Bowden tube to ignore the hotend heat up by temporarily &lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#M302:_Allow_cold_extrudes&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;disabling the cold extrusion&lt;/a&gt; limit (&lt;code&gt;M302&lt;/code&gt; will display the current value) with &lt;code&gt;M302 S0&lt;/code&gt;. After calibration please remember to set it back, e.g. &lt;code&gt;M302 S170&lt;/code&gt;. Do note that temperature and extrusion speed do influence the extrusion process, so you might want to fine tune the extrusion process at temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now you printer extruder is tuned and should extrude the exact amount as instructed.&#xA;&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Fine tuning&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although the extruder may now be correctly tuned to extrude exactly the amount as instructed, the slicer may have a different view. Be sure to set the slicer extrusion multiplier to 1.0 when fine tuning the extruder/slicer combination. The ultimate fine tuning starts with printing an object with zero bottom and top layers and a single perimeter with a fine layer height (0.1 or 0.15 mm).&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Kdstk.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Kdstk.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Single perimeter cube&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Measure the thickness of the wall and adjust your slicer extrusion multiplier accordingly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now your extruder and slicer should be optimally fine-tuned!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-08-05T08:09:22.727" LastActivityDate="2021-08-05T08:09:22.727" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6485" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6486" CreationDate="2018-07-27T12:53:41.203" Score="4" ViewCount="3285" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just completed assembly of the Anet A8 and powered it up. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Powering up shows white blocks on LED and a series of clicking noise for about three seconds with flashing red LED. During power-up, the following happens:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The side heat sink fans start (Blower fan remains off)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;LED comes up with all white blocks and buttons do nothing&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;No motor moves in any way&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Motherboard show not light except a three-flash-red-LEDnear the corner (fan connector)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Printer remains in the state&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Reset button only repeats the clicking sound + red flashing LED&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Video: &lt;a href=&quot;https://photos.app.goo.gl/mxNNeK5o13a9C6TC8&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://photos.app.goo.gl/mxNNeK5o13a9C6TC8&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The display of the Anet A8 now shows white blocks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any hints as to what could be wrong?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update 1:&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;The clicking sound is actually the blower powering up and then going off immediately after.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update 2:&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;I just did a blind flash to Marlin 1.18 and the firmware deployed successfully. Now, the boot sequence is almost 4 secs longer (previously, it was 3) and the clicking sound of the blower fan slowly spinning is replaced by a high spin-up of the blower. but after that, we are back to a dead printer with all whites.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12450" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-07-27T19:08:13.127" LastActivityDate="2018-07-27T19:08:13.127" Title="White blocks on LCD screen after Anet A8 power up" Tags="|marlin|anet-a8|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6486" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6485" CreationDate="2018-07-27T13:22:54.470" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a known and &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.gearbest.com/blog/how-to/solve-anet-a8-3d-printer-black-screen-white-square-problems-2140&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;documented problem&lt;/a&gt; of this printer. I'm afraid your printer board is dead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have white squares on the display like this picture:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UJwsv.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UJwsv.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;You need to check Anet A8's mainboard - click reset button and check&#xA;  the D1 indicator:&#xA;  &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9i0dG.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9i0dG.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If D1 lights on for a second then went out and the screen is full of white square, try to reconnect screen wire for several times. When&#xA;  it's well connected, click the reset button. If still not working, you&#xA;  need to replace a screen.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If the D1 indicator is always off and the screen is full of white square, you need to replace a mainboard.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the video you posted it can be seen that the D1 LED does not light up, it is off the whole time. Hence the main board is dead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2018-07-27T13:22:54.470" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6487" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6462" CreationDate="2018-07-27T18:27:35.060" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Update and close &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have changed the coupler on the z axis and levelled the bed put a print on to test, skirt and first layer look good so I think we can call this one closed and thank you very much for your comments.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;so over the weekend I have run a couple of prints, one very successful the other a complete fail, I would however judge the layer 1 adhesion issue to be largely solved by the replacement of the coupler, which was slightly fiddly. What I did notice was in purchasing a new coupler the design used by Tevo has to sets of perpendicular grub screws one for the lead screw and on to locate in the stepper motor shaft. The stepper motor only has in flat face so picking up on this is important and the factory had not - sloppy ! Secondly the lead screw has no faces so I &lt;em&gt;dremeled&lt;/em&gt; two peep faces &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once the lead screw was dressed the locking down of the coupler was simple and secure. Took about 30 minutes to fix after days of misguided bed levelling and slicer tweaking. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Old and new coupler new one bought as a pair from amazon £6 could have for them cheaper but I wanted next day not to wait.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Wmk2q.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Old and new coupler&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Wmk2q.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Old and new coupler&quot; title=&quot;Old and new coupler&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12416" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-07-30T10:12:30.713" LastActivityDate="2018-07-30T10:12:30.713" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6488" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6490" CreationDate="2018-07-27T23:27:12.887" Score="4" ViewCount="2496" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Context&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A while ago I bought a kit for a 3D printer, along with filament etc. however, after some weeks I ran into some mechanical problems and because I had a lot of other things to do at the time I put the project on hold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, almost a year later, I thought I would continue the project. I've got all the mechanical pieces back to work right now, but I have some questions concerning the filament.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Main question&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Firstly, I have a nearly full roll of PLA still, but it has been left in a dusty attic for almost a year. I read &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/1404/can-aged-pla-be-refurbished&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; that it could still be used if baked for a couple of hours at 50 degrees Celsius. Does anyone have experience with this? Can this be done in my regular oven that I also use for food without risk? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Secondly, there is still some PLA stuck in the printhead. As this may have taken up moisture I fear it might expand and damage the printhead. Is this possible? How could I remove it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12457" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-07-28T02:03:48.103" LastActivityDate="2018-07-28T07:40:36.267" Title="Baking old PLA spool" Tags="|filament|extruder|pla|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6489" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-07-28T02:01:33.333" Score="4" ViewCount="601" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm very new to 3D printing, but so far I've been able to print a couple things off Thingiverse without issue. However, as I'm trying to print another part, I've run into a situation where Cura is totally confused as to what's touching the buildplate and what isn't:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/j56yL.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/j56yL.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All I did was use the &quot;mirror&quot; feature to put it in a better orientation for printing....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas what's going on here? I'm using Cura 3.4 for Linux.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update:&lt;/strong&gt; I tried using the rotation tool instead as suggested by Oscar, but I get the same result:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4v0HG.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4v0HG.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update 2:&lt;/strong&gt; Hmm so even when I just import the part without doing anything else, Cura is still confused:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jschr.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jschr.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12458" LastEditorUserId="12458" LastEditDate="2018-07-28T15:22:55.410" LastActivityDate="2018-07-28T17:21:27.087" Title="Cura confused as to what's touching the buildplate?" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6490" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6488" CreationDate="2018-07-28T07:40:36.267" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Oven drying PLA&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Heating filament below the transition temperature of the filament should not be unsafe when using that oven later for cooking food. You need the temperature to stay under the glass transition temperature of PLA so that the filament doesn't deform. Depending on the PLA filament, you should use the very lowest temperature your oven will be able to handle. Temperatures around 40 ℃ to 50 ℃ would be fine to leave the filament in for periods of 3 to 6 hours. Even at this temp your PLA will soften anyways at elevated temperatures, oven drying PLA not necessarily will give you good results. It is therefore of prime importance to store at least PLA (and nylon) in airtight containers with bags of desiccants. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Stuck PLA&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Moisture will not travel that far into the hotend, so changes are minimal that expanding filament has already damaged your hotend. Just heat up the nozzle and push the filament in by hand, put off the heat and pull the filament out fast. Heat up again and insert some fresh filament. Note that moisture in filament breaks the large polymer molecules, so even after drying you are left with brittle filament. Personally this has caused few of my prints to fail as the filament string broke a couple of times during prints (just snapped before the Ultimaker 3 extruder feeder); this was experienced with 2.85 mm filament on small diameter spools (about 20 cm in diameter).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2018-07-28T07:40:36.267" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6491" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6489" CreationDate="2018-07-28T07:45:30.047" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you want to mirror the print to get the top to the bottom, and visa versa, you just need to rotate the part using the XYZ rotation tool. Mirroring is used  to make a mirror image in the X-Z or Y-Z plane, not the X-Y plane. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might just caught a bug, you could post that of their forum.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Update: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If that does not fix it, you might have an incorrect STL model, e.g. the normals of the faces are incorrect. You could try to fix this by repairing the model through an online service like &lt;a href=&quot;https://service.netfabb.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this one&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-07-28T17:21:27.087" LastActivityDate="2018-07-28T17:21:27.087" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6492" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6489" CreationDate="2018-07-28T16:05:01.630" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The up- or down-ness of a part is its Z-orientation, which is specified in STL. It looks like whoever published that STL file published it upside down, requiring you to flip the part or rotate it by 180. You can flip it in Cura as you've done or leave a comment to the author of the STL that the part is upside down.  However, the author may not know how to fix this because low-end modeling tools typically do not have the capability of flipping a model. In these cases, using another tool such as Cura or Slicer can generate a right-side up model. Cura seems to like generating AMF files, so I use Slicer to generate STL files for upside down models. Once you correct the STL file, you'll be able to import the model directly into Cura right-side up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10938" LastActivityDate="2018-07-28T16:05:01.630" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6493" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4652" CreationDate="2018-07-28T21:49:29.670" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Note that I am not stating this as the best 32 bit solution, as that is too subjective. Although you might want to read &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/issues/3851&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Recommendations for a good 32 bit microprocessor to run Marlin&lt;/a&gt;, which I cover in &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/4655/on-which-board-can-32-bit-marlin-run#6494&quot;&gt;On which board can 32 bit Marlin run?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, to clarify, yes, while the &lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/wiki/MKS_BASE_1.0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;MKS-BASE&lt;/a&gt; is based on the 8 bit ATmega2560, the &lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/wiki/Sbase&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;MKS-SBASE&lt;/a&gt; is powered by 32 bit ARM, 100M Cortex-MS MCU-LPC1768.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway, SmoothieWare can indeed run on MKS-SBASE. There is an &lt;em&gt;extensive&lt;/em&gt; guide on &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.instructables.com/id/Configuring-MKS-Sbase-V12-32-bit-Controller-Basics/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Instructables - Configuring MKS SBASE V1.X 32-bit controller basics and into to SmoothieWare.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You first need the &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/makerbase-mks/MKS-SBASE/tree/master/English/Driver&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;drivers&lt;/a&gt; (for Windows). Plug in the MKS-SBASE board and then install the driver.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Connecting USB&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Plug in USB to the board and look at the LEDs at the upper left&#xA;  corner.  Immediately the &lt;code&gt;D7&lt;/code&gt; led lights up. After a bit &lt;code&gt;D1&lt;/code&gt; also&#xA;  starts lightning while &lt;code&gt;D2&lt;/code&gt; and &lt;code&gt;D3&lt;/code&gt; blinks rapidly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Open device manager and update drivers for the new Smoothie/Serial USB&#xA;  device with the signed drivers you just downloaded from Github located&#xA;  in the easy to find folder:&#xA;  &lt;code&gt;\MKS-SBASE\MKS-SBASE\Driver\smoothieware-windows-signeddriver-v1.0&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then to install the firmware:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Installing firmware&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ol&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Firmware from MKS are just and old copy of Smoothieware, so we always just want to use the newest version from Smoothieware.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ol&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;In other words: &lt;strong&gt;always use firmware from Smoothieware&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;If you can't find &lt;code&gt;config.txt&lt;/code&gt; file from original Smoothieware, just use the one from MKS.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ol&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Download official firmware from Smoothieware's &lt;a href=&quot;http://triffid-hunter.no-ip.info/Smoothie.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;firmware page&lt;/a&gt; which is a subpage on their own &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/Smoothieware/Smoothieware&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Github page&lt;/a&gt; (you might want to&#xA;  download their full Github repository (folder) in order to find their&#xA;  config.txt file)&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ol&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Start by using the Stable version. When everything is working fine, you can use the Nightly version instead. It is the newest&#xA;  version, but not fully tested yet, and considered as beta/test.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ol&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Insert the SD Card into the MKS Sbase board and plug in the USB Cable. Your SD Card is now going to show in your file-Explorer.&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ol&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;If not, you need to make sure you have the Drivers installed.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ol&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;If you can't find the &lt;code&gt;config.txt&lt;/code&gt; file from Smoothieware, just locate the &lt;code&gt;config.txt&lt;/code&gt; in &lt;code&gt;\MKS&#xA;  Sbase\MKS-SBASE-master\MKSSBase-firmware&lt;/code&gt; and copy it to your SD Card.&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ol&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Smoothieware suggest disabling auto-Mount on the SD when connecting to USB. Especially when using a Mac, as OSX tends to do&#xA;  funky stuff at strange times.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;I have changed nothing on my Win10. And nothing bad has happened the past year.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ol&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;The D7 lights up, shortly after D1 follows. D2, D3, D4 blinks and then D4 turns steady while D2 and D3 continues blinking.&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ol&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;At this point, the &lt;code&gt;firmware.bin&lt;/code&gt; had changed to &lt;code&gt;firmware.cur&lt;/code&gt; file on the SD card&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ol&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;After successful updated, the file name will turn into firmware.cur.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Changing or Updating firmware&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Just delete the &lt;code&gt;firmware.cur&lt;/code&gt; file from your SD, or rename to&#xA;  &lt;code&gt;firmware.cur.old&lt;/code&gt; or similar, and copy on the new &lt;code&gt;firmware.bin&lt;/code&gt; file&#xA;  to your SD. Powercycle your printer (also unplug USB) and you can see&#xA;  your new &lt;code&gt;firmware.cur&lt;/code&gt; file on your SD card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Note:&lt;/strong&gt; After making any changes to your &lt;code&gt;config.txt&lt;/code&gt; file in the future, you need to power-cycle your controller, meaning disconnect&#xA;  both power (if in use) and USB. You can send a reset command, but only&#xA;  through true terminal use and not through Printrun/Pronterface or&#xA;  similar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The guide, as stated above is extremely detailed, and goes on to explain all of the other aspects. The contents are as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Table Of Contents:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ol&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Connect and install&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ol&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Connecting USB&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Installing firmware&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ol&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Configuring Smoothieware compared to Marlin&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Obvious difference from Marlin&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ol&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Less obvious differneces&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Firmware and Config file(s)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Configuring firmware&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Comments&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ol&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Firmware Step 1: Default feed rate&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ol&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;1/32 Multistepping&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Connecting Motors&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;External Motor Controllers&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ol&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Firmware Step 2: Cartesian axis speed limits, pins and current&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ol&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Pins&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Current&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ol&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Firmware Step 3: LCD, SD and Extruder&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ol&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;LCD and SD&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Extruder Setup&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Delta driver current&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ol&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Firmware Step 4: Hotend temperature control configuration&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ol&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Thermistor Type&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;PID Tuning&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Hotend Thermistor - Physical Layout&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Hotend Heater Pins - Physical Layout&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ol&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Firmware Step 5: Heated bed temperature control configuration&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ol&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Thermistor Type&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Temperature Control Bed BANG-BANG&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Heated bed thermistor - Physical Layout&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Heated bed heater pins - Physical Layout&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ol&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Firmware Step 6: Configuring Endstops&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ol&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Homing direction&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Disable unused endstops&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Define axes size&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Reversing endstop output&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Fast and slow homing rates&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ol&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Firmware step 7: Network Settings&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Step 8: What's next?&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ol&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;More advanced setup?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Using Switches&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ol&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As there is way to much to cover here, please visit the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.instructables.com/id/Configuring-MKS-Sbase-V12-32-bit-Controller-Basics/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Instructables page&lt;/a&gt; for the complete guide, in order to complete the configuration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4762" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-07-28T23:38:07.583" LastActivityDate="2018-07-28T23:38:07.583" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6494" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4655" CreationDate="2018-07-28T22:14:43.027" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The  &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/blob/1.1.x/platformio.ini&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;code&gt;platformio.ini&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/a&gt; file, given in &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/4655/on-which-board-32-bit-marlin-can-run#comment6505_4655&quot;&gt;Zac's comment&lt;/a&gt;, does not seem to list all of the boards supported.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/issues/7076&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;The Marlin 2.0 32-bit thread&lt;/a&gt; appears to have a table that is much more complete (at the time of writing):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Board                           MCU         State            To-Do&#xA;RAMPS, etc.                  Arduino AVR    good  &#xA;Due, RAMPS FD (v2.A!), etc.  SAM3X8E        good  &#xA;Archim 1.0                   SAM3X8E        ❓unknown    Only US$170!&#xA;Archim 2.0                   SAM3X8E        beta       needs confirmation&#xA;Re-ARM                       LPC1768        beta       NEOPIXEL_LED,M100,ENDSTOP_INTERRUPTS,Tones,etc.&#xA;MKS-SBASE                    LPC1768        beta       NEOPIXEL_LED,M100,Tones, etc.&#xA;Smoothieboard                LPC1769        beta       NEOPIXEL_LED,M100,Tones, etc.&#xA;Azteeg X5 GT                 LPC1769        beta       NEOPIXEL_LED,M100,Tones, etc.&#xA;Cohesion3D Remix             LPC1769        beta       NEOPIXEL_LED,M100,Tones, etc.&#xA;Selena Compact               LPC1768        beta       NEOPIXEL_LED,M100,Tones, etc.&#xA;Malyan M200                 STM32F103C8     beta       EMERGENCY_PARSER,NEOPIXEL_LED, etc.&#xA;Borg                        STM32F765ZGT6   ⚠️beta       EMERGENCY_PARSER,NEOPIXEL_LED, etc.&#xA;Chitu3D V3.9                STM32F103ZET6   alpha      EMERGENCY_PARSER,NEOPIXEL_LED, LCD, SDCard, MAX6675, etc.&#xA;Teensy 3.5                  MK64FX          alpha      (need shields)&#xA;Teensy 3.6                  MK66FX          alpha      (need shields)&#xA;STEVAL-3DP001V1             STM32F401VE     alpha      (need boards)&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/issues/9222&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;[Question] Most promising 32 Bit Platform for Marlin 2.x&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The reference platform IS Re-Arm with a RAMPS shield. You can find instructions for both obtaining it and getting setup with it at &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/issues/7076&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;#7076&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It appears the you have to use the &lt;em&gt;bugfix&lt;/em&gt; branch:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Right now, there are two branches. Bugfix-v1.1.x and Bugfix-v2.0.0. They are almost identical from a feature set perspective. But Bugfix-v2.0.0 is modified to have a hierarchical file layout. That was needed to clean up the code and to support 32-bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The AVR code is fully debugged and working in both branches. The 32-bit code only exists (and works) in the Bugfix-v2.0.0 branch. And while the code does work... And some people are using it to print, it isn't entirely painless to get to that point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may also want to read &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/issues/3851&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Recommendations for a good 32 bit microprocessor to run Marlin&lt;/a&gt;. To list a few examples:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Atmel ATSAM3x8e on the Due board&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Anyhow, there are a lot of 32bit Controller. Take a look at mbed.org for example.&#xA;You can use the arm-none-eabi-xxx for STM32, LPC, also the Arduino Due use it&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Duet board (now called DuetWifi) is available for pre-order. It has a 120MHz Cortex M4 with hardware FPU&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;AZSMZ ARM 32bit controller board&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;RedBear: &lt;a href=&quot;https://redbearlab.github.io/arduino/package_redbear_index.json&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://redbearlab.github.io/arduino/package_redbear_index.json&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;RedBear Duo (Cortex-M3, WiFi + BLE)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;RedBear discussion forum&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Konekt Dash/DashPro (Official): &lt;a href=&quot;http://downloads.konekt.io/arduino/package_konekt_index.json&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://downloads.konekt.io/arduino/package_konekt_index.json&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cortex M4-based global cellular dev kits, support for all board variants, support for USB and over-the-air programming straight from within Arduino IDE&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another link that might be useful is &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/arduino/Arduino/wiki/Unofficial-list-of-3rd-party-boards-support-urls&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Unofficial list of 3rd party boards support urls&lt;/a&gt;, although not all of these are 32 bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4762" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-07-28T22:39:03.087" LastActivityDate="2018-07-28T22:39:03.087" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6495" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6497" CreationDate="2018-07-29T15:48:39.010" Score="4" ViewCount="1897" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had a Z probe installed but the wires came out of the header so I am trying to use software endstops, but any time I &lt;code&gt;G28&lt;/code&gt; the nozzle will always ram into the bed. I am using Marlin Firmware. Which I am relatively new with. I'm used to having hardware endstops, but,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;I don't have a hardware endstop currently (no probe/no switch).&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Is it possible to do this with software? &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I took out &lt;code&gt;G28&lt;/code&gt;/&lt;code&gt;G29&lt;/code&gt; in my G-code and it shows that it is going to z0.2 and working upward (but it still hits the bed). If the bed is level do I need a &lt;code&gt;G28&lt;/code&gt;?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Should Z probe offset be 0?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&#xA;    #define USE_XMIN_PLUG&#xA;    #define USE_YMIN_PLUG&#xA;    #define USE_ZMIN_PLUG&#xA;    //#define USE_XMAX_PLUG&#xA;    //#define USE_YMAX_PLUG&#xA;    //#define USE_ZMAX_PLUG&#xA;    #if DISABLED(ENDSTOPPULLUPS)&#xA;      // fine endstop settings: Individual pullups. will be ignored if ENDSTOPPULLUPS is defined&#xA;      //#define ENDSTOPPULLUP_XMAX&#xA;      //#define ENDSTOPPULLUP_YMAX&#xA;      //#define ENDSTOPPULLUP_ZMAX&#xA;      //#define ENDSTOPPULLUP_XMIN&#xA;      //#define ENDSTOPPULLUP_YMIN&#xA;      //#define ENDSTOPPULLUP_ZMIN&#xA;      //#define ENDSTOPPULLUP_ZMIN_PROBE&#xA;    #endif&#xA;    #define X_MIN_ENDSTOP_INVERTING true  // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.&#xA;    #define Y_MIN_ENDSTOP_INVERTING true  // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.&#xA;    #define Z_MIN_ENDSTOP_INVERTING true  // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.&#xA;    #define X_MAX_ENDSTOP_INVERTING false // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.&#xA;    #define Y_MAX_ENDSTOP_INVERTING false // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.&#xA;    #define Z_MAX_ENDSTOP_INVERTING false // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.&#xA;    #define Z_MIN_PROBE_ENDSTOP_INVERTING true  // set to true to invert the logic of the probe.&#xA;&#xA;    // Enable this feature if all enabled endstop pins are interrupt-capable.&#xA;    // This will remove the need to poll the interrupt pins, saving many CPU cycles.&#xA;    #define ENDSTOP_INTERRUPTS_FEATURE&#xA;    #define PROBE_MANUALLY&#xA;    #define X_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER 1   // X offset: -left  +right  [of the nozzle]&#xA;    #define Y_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER -55 // Y offset: -front +behind [the nozzle]&#xA;    #define Z_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER -3.4&#xA;    #define MULTIPLE_PROBING 2&#xA;    #define Z_CLEARANCE_DEPLOY_PROBE   0  // Z Clearance for Deploy/Stow&#xA;    #define Z_CLEARANCE_BETWEEN_PROBES  3 // Z Clearance between probe points&#xA;&#xA;    // For M851 give a range for adjusting the Z probe offset&#xA;    #define Z_PROBE_OFFSET_RANGE_MIN -20&#xA;    #define Z_PROBE_OFFSET_RANGE_MAX 20&#xA;    #define INVERT_Z_DIR true&#xA;    #define Z_MIN_POS 0&#xA;    #if ENABLED(MIN_SOFTWARE_ENDSTOPS)&#xA;      //#define MIN_SOFTWARE_ENDSTOP_X&#xA;      //#define MIN_SOFTWARE_ENDSTOP_Y&#xA;      #define MIN_SOFTWARE_ENDSTOP_Z&#xA;    #endif&#xA;    #define AUTO_BED_LEVELING_BILINEAR&#xA;    #define MANUAL_Z_HOME_POS 0&#xA;&#xA;    #define Z_SAFE_HOMING&#xA;&#xA;    #if ENABLED(Z_SAFE_HOMING)&#xA;      #define Z_SAFE_HOMING_X_POINT ((X_BED_SIZE) / 2)    // X point for Z homing when homing all axes (G28).&#xA;      #define Z_SAFE_HOMING_Y_POINT ((Y_BED_SIZE) / 2)    // Y point for Z homing when homing all axes (G28).&#xA;    #endif&#xA;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12468" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2019-08-31T08:22:20.980" LastActivityDate="2019-08-31T08:22:20.980" Title="Anet A6 Z-axis min endstop not triggering" Tags="|marlin|anet-a6|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6496" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6342" CreationDate="2018-07-29T20:55:10.060" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Bearing in mind that the specifications on Amazon's page are sometimes not 100% (even though they are &lt;em&gt;in this case&lt;/em&gt;), it is always best to check on the manufacturer's website.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From Creality3D's own website, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.creality3dofficial.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Creality3D.shop&lt;/a&gt;, on the Creality3D Ender-3 product page, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.creality3dofficial.com/products/official-creality-ender-3-3d-printer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Creality3D Ender-3 3D Printer Economic Ender DIY KITS&lt;/a&gt;, the specifications are given as (emphasis is mine):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;##ender-3 Machine Parameter:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Modeling Technology：FDM (Fused Deposition Modeling）&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Printing Size：220&lt;em&gt;220&lt;/em&gt;250mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Machine Size：440&lt;em&gt;410&lt;/em&gt;465mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Package weight：8kg Max&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Traveling Speed：180mm/s&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Filament：1.75mm PLA,TPU,ABS&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Input：AC 100-265V 50-60Hz&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Output：DC 24V 15A 360W&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Layer Thickness：0.1-0.4mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Nozzle diameter：0.4mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Precision：±0.1mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;File Format：STL,OBJ,G-Code&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Working Mode：Online or SD offline&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Max Nozzle Temperature：255℃&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Max Hot bed Temperature：110℃&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4762" LastEditorUserId="10139" LastEditDate="2020-06-24T05:48:32.657" LastActivityDate="2020-06-24T05:48:32.657" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6497" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6495" CreationDate="2018-07-29T21:06:52.073" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is no such thing as a software endstop for the 3D printer. When you power a printer the print head can be located at every X, Y, Z position (usually, Z is  at the print height of your last print, X is at the minimum X, and Y is at an arbitrary location determined by the last print).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is exactly why we need endstops, either mechanical, optical or electronic (inductive or capacitive) end stop switches or sensors. You instruct the printer to home by using a known fixed location of the printer; this is the hitting of all endstops. The origin of the printer may have offsets, as the origin of the printer may not coincide with the endstop location. For the Anet A6 this is a few millimeters, e.g. for Marlin firmware this is defined in the configuration by:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&#xA;#define X_MIN_POS -3&#xA;#define Y_MIN_POS -5&#xA;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The answer to your question: &quot;Is it possible to do this with software?&quot; is therefore, no, you cannot do this solely with software.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-07-29T21:16:02.713" LastActivityDate="2018-07-29T21:16:02.713" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6498" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6503" CreationDate="2018-07-29T21:26:42.103" Score="5" ViewCount="277" Body="&lt;p&gt;Having just re-read &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/3527/advantages-of-gt2-over-a-rack#answer-3528&quot;&gt;Tom's excellent answer&lt;/a&gt; to my question &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/3527/advantages-of-gt2-over-a-rack&quot;&gt;Advantages of GT2 over a rack&lt;/a&gt;, as &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/3527/advantages-of-gt2-over-a-rack#comment4831_3528&quot;&gt;my comment&lt;/a&gt; ponders&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Why is a threaded rod, or lead screw, used for the Z-axis movement in a Prusa (and its derivatives) given the inherent problems relating to backlash?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Indeed the majority of, if not all, delta printers generally use GT2 for the three vertical movements, presumably for this reason (of reduced backlash). Maybe cost and simplicity also play a part? I am purely speculating on these three reasons. The mass of the three vertical carriages and the associated carbon rods, would certainly seem to be a lot less than the mass of a cartesian X-axis gantry. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it purely for reason of the mass of the X-axis gantry (especially if the extruder is mounted upon it - in a non-Bowden solution) that mechanical rods are used, as GT2 would not be able to lift the weight, without stretching (both over time and flexing slight upon each movement)? If so, then surely &lt;em&gt;wire reinforced GT2&lt;/em&gt; could be used?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a potential aside, would another consideration be to compare the inertia of a GT2 solution to that of a threaded rod, leadscrew solution&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; I have a nagging worry that I have &lt;em&gt;already&lt;/em&gt; asked this somewhere else, but after having spent the best part of a day looking for it and failing, I am asking here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; Although I am not entirely sure how that would be measured/compared, as one solution (leadscrew) is rotational, with a translation to linearal via the screw thread, and the other (GT2) is (effectively) fully rotational? I am going to ask about this particular point on SE.Mechanical Engineering, and will update this question as necessary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4762" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2019-08-31T07:58:49.560" LastActivityDate="2019-08-31T07:58:49.560" Title="Why not use GT2 en lieu of a Z-axis threaded rod or leadscrew?" Tags="|z-axis|printer-building|lead-screw|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6500" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6495" CreationDate="2018-07-30T00:57:45.277" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.elektor.com/downloads/dl/file/id/1606/installation_instruction_anet_a6_3d_printer.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;A6 3D Printer &#xA;Installation Instruction&lt;/a&gt; shows that there is an endstop, part &lt;code&gt;2-7-2&lt;/code&gt;, page 4, included in the kit:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5AJmU.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Limit switches&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5AJmU.png&quot; alt=&quot;Limit switches&quot; title=&quot;Limit switches&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It needs to be fitted as shown on page 8:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uybcV.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Image showing Z-axis minimum stop&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uybcV.png&quot; alt=&quot;Image showing Z-axis minimum stop&quot; title=&quot;Image showing Z-axis minimum stop&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Page 36 shows the correct length of the wires, which should prevent the wires being pulled out of the sensors/switches:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/my8Gp.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Wire lengths&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/my8Gp.png&quot; alt=&quot;Wire lengths&quot; title=&quot;Wire lengths&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Page 38 shows where the Z-axis endstop is attached to the controller board:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NRa3u.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Controller board connections&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NRa3u.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Controller board connections&quot; title=&quot;Controller board connections&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To be fair, this assembly guide seems to be rather poor quality and after having looked through it a number of times I fail to see any actual instructions on how, or where &lt;em&gt;exactly&lt;/em&gt;, to mount the Z-axis minimum endstop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4762" LastActivityDate="2018-07-30T00:57:45.277" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6501" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6039" CreationDate="2018-07-30T02:17:19.930" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There appear to be at least two papers which revolve around the use of hydroxypropyl cellulose (HPC) filaments.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This proposal/article, from &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.researchgate.net/journal/1773-2247_Journal_of_Drug_Delivery_Science_and_Technology&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Journal of Drug Delivery Science and Technology&lt;/a&gt; 30 July 2015 seems to, at least, partially fit your criteria, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.researchgate.net/publication/282800986_3D_Printing_by_Fused_Deposition_Modeling_FDM_of_a_SwellableErodible_Capsular_Device_for_Oral_Pulsatile_Release_of_Drugs&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;3D Printing by Fused Deposition Modeling (FDM) of a Swellable/Erodible Capsular Device for Oral Pulsatile Release of Drugs&lt;/a&gt; by Melocchi et al.:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The aim of the present work was to explore the feasibility of fused deposition modeling (FDM) 3D printing in the manufacturing of capsular devices for oral pulsatile release based on a swellable/erodible polymer (hydroxypropyl cellulose, HPC). This involved an experimental evaluation of the possibility of fabricating hollow structures via FDM and the production of HPC filaments by hot melt extrusion (HME), which are not commercially available. Moreover, the set-up of appropriate computer aided design files had to be faced. A twin-screw extruder equipped with a rod-shaped die and a purposely designed pulling/calibrating device as well as a MakerBot Replicator 2 3D printer were employed for HME and FDM processing, respectively. Bodies and caps with satisfactory physico-technological properties were obtained. The release test of assembled capsular devices pointed out a lag phase before rapid and quantitative liberation of the drug. The morphological changes undergone by the device when in contact with water and their release performance turned out comparable with those of analogous systems fabricated by injection molding. The possibility of manufacturing capsular devices for oral pulsatile release by FDM 3D printing starting from HPC filaments purposely prepared was thus demonstrated, and the real-time prototyping potential of FDM was assessed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3D Printing by Fused Deposition Modeling (FDM) of a Swellable/Erodible Capsular Device for Oral Pulsatile Release of Drugs | Request PDF. Available from: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.researchgate.net/publication/282800986_3D_Printing_by_Fused_Deposition_Modeling_FDM_of_a_SwellableErodible_Capsular_Device_for_Oral_Pulsatile_Release_of_Drugs&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.researchgate.net/publication/282800986_3D_Printing_by_Fused_Deposition_Modeling_FDM_of_a_SwellableErodible_Capsular_Device_for_Oral_Pulsatile_Release_of_Drugs&lt;/a&gt; [accessed Jul 30 2018].&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, from &lt;a href=&quot;https://ac.els-cdn.com/S2351978917307886/1-s2.0-S2351978917307886-main.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Manufacturing and characterization of £D printing filament by tailoring materials&lt;/a&gt; by V. Mirón, S. Ferrándiz*, D. Juárez, A. Mengual&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are also references to the pharmaceutical field’s manufactured materials as it reflects Melocchi &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.nature.com/articles/s41598-017-03097-x#ref-CR3&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;4&lt;/a&gt; in his&#xA;paper about filaments based on insoluble (ethylcellulose, Eudragit RL), promptly soluble (polyethylene oxide,&#xA;Kollicoat1 IR), enteric soluble (Eudragit1 L, hydroxypropyl methylcellulose acetate succinate) and&#xA;swellable/erodible (hydrophilic cellulose derivatives, polyvinyl alcohol, Soluplus1) polymers were successfully&#xA;produced&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is also this, which refers to the Melocchi paper above, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.nature.com/articles/s41598-017-03097-x&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Fused Deposition Modeling (FDM) 3D Printed Tablets for Intragastric Floating Delivery of Domperidone&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Domperidone (DOM)... DOM was successfully loaded into hydroxypropyl cellulose (HPC) filaments using hot melt extrusion (HME).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Several novel gastroretentive delivery systems have been explored to overcome the shortcomings above, including polymer bioadhesive systems, swelling and expanding systems, high-density systems and floating systems&lt;sup&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.nature.com/articles/s41598-017-03097-x#ref-CR3&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;3&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An image of the filament is shown in figure 1:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Z5E2M.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Image of HME fabricated filaments&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Z5E2M.png&quot; alt=&quot;Image of HME fabricated filaments&quot; title=&quot;Image of HME fabricated filaments&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, as a commercially available filament, you might be out of luck, or at least hard pushed to find one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4762" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:29:41.667" LastActivityDate="2018-07-30T02:27:35.093" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6502" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4647" CreationDate="2018-07-30T02:54:11.850" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Netfabb came up in a number of suggestions that I found. Take a look at &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.unixmen.com/3d-printing-arch-linux/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;3D Printing Under Arch Linux&lt;/a&gt;, which offers a number of solutions for Linux, including:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;OpenSCAD&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;FreeCAD&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Blender&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;NetFabb&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Slic3r&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Netfabb&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Taking the section on Netfabb:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;netfabb Private will provide you with a fully-loaded tool-box to do all this and much more:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;fix complicated file errors&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;make late design changes&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;combine parts into one&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;hollow out solid parts into a shell&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;smooth the mesh to improve surfaces&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;reduce file size&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Installing it:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;netfabb is not at official repository so you must install it from AUR&#xA;  using yaourt&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$ yaourt netfabb-basic&#xA;$ netfabb-basic&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, it is unclear as to whether there is a cmd line interface. It could be worth reading &lt;a href=&quot;https://forums.autodesk.com/t5/installation-licensing/problem-in-netfabb-command-line-execution/td-p/7270370&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Problem in Netfabb Command Line execution&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;em&gt;in particular&lt;/em&gt; the documentation on &lt;a href=&quot;http://help.autodesk.com/view/NETF/2018/ENU/?guid=GUID-596074CF-01B2-4F5F-A758-AD0A45BC02D3&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Automating Netfabb&lt;/a&gt; - although this seems to suggest that command line functionality is only available to users with &lt;em&gt;Ultimate&lt;/em&gt; subscription and not &lt;em&gt;Basic&lt;/em&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yFefA.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Automating Netfabb&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yFefA.png&quot; alt=&quot;Automating Netfabb&quot; title=&quot;Automating Netfabb&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.shapeways.com/forum/t/reducing-size-of-stl-file-to-upload-to-shapeways.24807/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Reducing Size of STL file to upload to shapeways&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.shapeways.com/forum/t/reducing-size-of-stl-file-to-upload-to-shapeways.24807/#post-109160&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this post (#10)&lt;/a&gt; states:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;You can also decimate the model in Netfabb easily - Right click &gt; Level of Detail &gt; Choose something like 50%... or more or less depending on the level of detail needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although, this isn't available in Basic subscription, or so says &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.shapeways.com/forum/t/reducing-size-of-stl-file-to-upload-to-shapeways.24807/#post-109166&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;post #12&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Meshmixer&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also came across this, non-command line option.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.materialise.com/blog/en/reduce-the-file-size-of-stl-and-obj-3d-models/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;How to Reduce the File Size of .STL and .OBJ 3D Models&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;For example, you can give the free 3D modeling program &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.meshmixer.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Meshmixer&lt;/a&gt; a try. Choose the ‘Select’ tool from the menu on the right, then double-click on your model (this will select your entire mesh). Then click on the ‘Edit…’ option and select ‘Reduce’.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;You can now reduce the polygon count using several options. The best working choice is to use the percentage tool. It will immediately tell you by how much percent your file size (and polygon count) has been reduced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Available for Windows and OSX.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.shapeways.com/forum/t/reducing-size-of-stl-file-to-upload-to-shapeways.24807/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Reducing Size of STL file to upload to shapeways&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.shapeways.com/forum/t/reducing-size-of-stl-file-to-upload-to-shapeways.24807/#post-109087&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this post (#8)&lt;/a&gt; states:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.shapeways.com/tutorials/polygon_reduction_with_meshlab&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;meshlab tutorial&lt;/a&gt; is exactly what you want to do - the options described help preserve the overall geometry of the model while reducing the poly count. Start with a target of 150,000 polys and work up until the desired detail is retained, bearing in mind the printability I mentioned above.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, by way of Quora, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.quora.com/How-do-I-reduce-the-size-of-an-STL-file-Does-it-affect-the-CAD-coordinates-for-3D-printing&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;How do I reduce the size of an STL file? Does it affect the CAD coordinates for 3D printing?&lt;/a&gt;, I also found this Meshmixer tutorial: &lt;a href=&quot;https://pinshape.com/blog/how-to-repair-your-stl-files/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Easy Guide on How to Repair Your .STL Files&lt;/a&gt;. Under the section &lt;strong&gt;Problem 4: File Size is too Large for 3D Printing&lt;/strong&gt; are the following steps:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The last problem that you may stumble upon, particularly as your&#xA;  objects get larger and their complexity increases, is that the&#xA;  resulting &lt;code&gt;.stl&lt;/code&gt; file size is too large for your 3D printer or 3D&#xA;  printing service of choice. Third party printing services like&#xA;  &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.materialise.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;i.materialise&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.shapeways.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Shapeways&lt;/a&gt;  have upload limits so you may have to&#xA;  change the size of your file (100&amp;nbsp;MB limit at imaterialise and 64&amp;nbsp;MB for&#xA;  Shapeways). It’s important to reduce the mesh without sacrificing the&#xA;  quality, which I should say at the outset is best done at the initial&#xA;  export from your CAD software to minimise any distortion. My number one quick&#xA;  tip is to make sure in the export settings that your saving in&#xA;  ‘Binary’ format, not ‘ASCII’ –  it’s a significantly more compact file&#xA;  format for &lt;code&gt;.stl&lt;/code&gt;’s without losing quality). However if it’s not an&#xA;  option, Meshmixer can be really useful to quickly reduce file size and&#xA;  visualise how this will affect the quality of your surfaces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;For this example I’m going to return to the leaf from Problem 1, which&#xA;  as a &lt;code&gt;.stl&lt;/code&gt; file is 30.757&amp;nbsp;MB – pretty large for such a small design and&#xA;  definitely over the limit for someone’s email if I wanted to send it.&#xA;  So let’s look at how we can get this under 10&amp;nbsp;MB.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ol&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Select the entire model by pressing Ctrl + A on your keyboard to select all.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Go to &lt;strong&gt;Edit&gt;Reduce&lt;/strong&gt; to bring up the options to reduce the mesh. Essentially the file size of a &lt;code&gt;.stl&lt;/code&gt; is directly related to the number&#xA;  of polygons (triangles) that make up all of the surfaces. We will use&#xA;  the Reduce tool to reduce the quantity of polygons, therefore reducing&#xA;  file size.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;The menu will give you a range of options to reduce the size of your file. The simplest is to use the default Percentage option,&#xA;  allowing you to determine the final file size you want rather than&#xA;  needing to know exactly how many triangles will be used to make up the&#xA;  file. In this case I have calculated that in order to get my original&#xA;  .stl file below 10&amp;nbsp;MB, I need a reduction of 70&amp;nbsp;% or more. As you&#xA;  adjust the values, you will get a preview of what your model will look&#xA;  like, allowing you to control how much reduction you employ before the&#xA;  model becomes too distorted and ‘pixelated.’&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bGp8F.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Reduce dialog&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bGp8F.png&quot; alt=&quot;Reduce dialog&quot; title=&quot;Reduce dialog&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ol start=&quot;4&quot;&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Once you’re happy and have accepted the changes, you can click on the Export button or go to &lt;strong&gt;File&gt;Export&lt;/strong&gt; to save this new reduced &lt;code&gt;.stl&lt;/code&gt;&#xA;  file. As you can see in the comparison below, there is almost no&#xA;  perceptible difference in the quality of the 30.757&amp;nbsp;MB file compared&#xA;  with the final reduced version at 9.362&amp;nbsp;MB. I have simply increased the&#xA;  size of the triangles, minimising the quantity needed to create the&#xA;  same volume. Your regular 3D printer, or even a highly accurate SLS&#xA;  printer will never even know the difference in a change like this.&#xA;  It’s only if you really go crazy with the file reduction that you&#xA;  might start to notice them in your final print (and in fact many of&#xA;  the low-poly models which are popular on Pinshape can be produced&#xA;  using this technique – start with a detailed .stl of the object you&#xA;  want, and then just keep reducing the number of triangles!).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fzPYw.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Reduction of file size&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fzPYw.png&quot; alt=&quot;Reduction of file size&quot; title=&quot;Reduction of file size&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Blender&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.shapeways.com/forum/t/reducing-size-of-stl-file-to-upload-to-shapeways.24807/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Reducing Size of STL file to upload to shapeways&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.shapeways.com/forum/t/reducing-size-of-stl-file-to-upload-to-shapeways.24807/#post-109087&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this post (#8)&lt;/a&gt; states:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Another option is to import the model into Blender, then use the Remesh or Decimate modifiers. Blender can be tough to get into initially but there are plenty of introduction tutorials on YouTube to help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Blender &lt;em&gt;does&lt;/em&gt; offer a Command Line Interface (CLI), see &lt;a href=&quot;https://docs.blender.org/manual/en/dev/advanced/command_line/arguments.html#command-line-arguments&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Command Line Arguments&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Usage: blender [args …] [file] [args …]&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, there doesn't appear to be an option for &lt;em&gt;Remesh&lt;/em&gt; or &lt;em&gt;Decimate&lt;/em&gt;. Although take a look at &lt;a href=&quot;https://blender.stackexchange.com/questions/115069/is-it-possible-to-decimate-or-remesh-via-the-cli&quot;&gt;Is it possible to decimate or remesh via the CLI?&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;You can specify a Python script to run, see the &lt;a href=&quot;https://docs.blender.org/manual/en/dev/advanced/command_line/arguments.html#python-options&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Python Options&lt;/a&gt; section of &lt;a href=&quot;https://docs.blender.org/manual/en/dev/advanced/command_line/arguments.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;the documentation&lt;/a&gt; you linked. In this script, you can import the model, add the modifiers, apply them and export the result. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Related - &lt;a href=&quot;https://blender.stackexchange.com/questions/474/is-it-possible-to-automatically-simplify-geometry-in-blender-without-losing-obje&quot;&gt;Is it possible to automatically simplify geometry in blender without losing object shape?&lt;/a&gt;, which has &lt;a href=&quot;https://blender.stackexchange.com/questions/474/is-it-possible-to-automatically-simplify-geometry-in-blender-without-losing-obje#comment33919_475&quot;&gt;this comment&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Is there a way to execute this modifier from command line and export the result? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;which then leads to &lt;a href=&quot;https://blender.stackexchange.com/questions/2876/can-modifiers-be-computed-and-applied-from-the-command-line&quot;&gt;Can modifiers be computed and applied from the command line?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;You'd have to use &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.blender.org/documentation/blender_python_api_2_68_2/bpy.ops.object.html#bpy.ops.object.modifier_apply&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;code&gt;bpy.ops.object.modifier_apply&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/a&gt;, e.g.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;import bpy&#xA;&#xA;for obj in bpy.context.scene.objects:&#xA;    bpy.context.scene.objects.active = obj&#xA;    count = 1&#xA;    length = len(obj.modifiers)&#xA;    while obj.modifiers:&#xA;        name = obj.modifiers[0].name&#xA;        print(&quot;%s: Applying %s (%d/%d)&quot; % (obj, name, count, length))&#xA;        bpy.ops.object.modifier_apply(modifier=name)&#xA;        count += 1&#xA;print(&quot;All done.&quot;)&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;For info on how to to run the above, &lt;a href=&quot;https://blender.stackexchange.com/q/1365/290&quot;&gt;see here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Meshlab&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Seeing as you are already using Meshlab, it might be worth reading &lt;a href=&quot;https://gist.github.com/awesomebytes/a3bc8729d0c1d0a9499172b9a77d2622&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Executing meshlab from commandline reduce faces of a mesh iteratively&lt;/a&gt; (awesomebytes/&lt;a href=&quot;https://gist.github.com/awesomebytes/a3bc8729d0c1d0a9499172b9a77d2622&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;reduce_faces.py&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#!/usr/bin/env python&#xA;&#xA;import sys&#xA;import os&#xA;import subprocess&#xA;&#xA;# Script taken from doing the needed operation&#xA;# (Filters &amp;gt; Remeshing, Simplification and Reconstruction &amp;gt;&#xA;# Quadric Edge Collapse Decimation, with parameters:&#xA;# 0.9 percentage reduction (10%), 0.3 Quality threshold (70%)&#xA;# Target number of faces is ignored with those parameters&#xA;# conserving face normals, planar simplification and&#xA;# post-simplimfication cleaning)&#xA;# And going to Filter &amp;gt; Show current filter script&#xA;filter_script_mlx = &quot;&quot;&quot;&amp;lt;!DOCTYPE FilterScript&amp;gt;&#xA;&amp;lt;FilterScript&amp;gt;&#xA; &amp;lt;filter name=&quot;Quadric Edge Collapse Decimation&quot;&amp;gt;&#xA;  &amp;lt;Param type=&quot;RichInt&quot; value=&quot;1448&quot; name=&quot;TargetFaceNum&quot;/&amp;gt;&#xA;  &amp;lt;Param type=&quot;RichFloat&quot; value=&quot;0.9&quot; name=&quot;TargetPerc&quot;/&amp;gt;&#xA;  &amp;lt;Param type=&quot;RichFloat&quot; value=&quot;0.3&quot; name=&quot;QualityThr&quot;/&amp;gt;&#xA;  &amp;lt;Param type=&quot;RichBool&quot; value=&quot;false&quot; name=&quot;PreserveBoundary&quot;/&amp;gt;&#xA;  &amp;lt;Param type=&quot;RichFloat&quot; value=&quot;1&quot; name=&quot;BoundaryWeight&quot;/&amp;gt;&#xA;  &amp;lt;Param type=&quot;RichBool&quot; value=&quot;true&quot; name=&quot;PreserveNormal&quot;/&amp;gt;&#xA;  &amp;lt;Param type=&quot;RichBool&quot; value=&quot;false&quot; name=&quot;PreserveTopology&quot;/&amp;gt;&#xA;  &amp;lt;Param type=&quot;RichBool&quot; value=&quot;false&quot; name=&quot;OptimalPlacement&quot;/&amp;gt;&#xA;  &amp;lt;Param type=&quot;RichBool&quot; value=&quot;true&quot; name=&quot;PlanarQuadric&quot;/&amp;gt;&#xA;  &amp;lt;Param type=&quot;RichBool&quot; value=&quot;false&quot; name=&quot;QualityWeight&quot;/&amp;gt;&#xA;  &amp;lt;Param type=&quot;RichBool&quot; value=&quot;true&quot; name=&quot;AutoClean&quot;/&amp;gt;&#xA;  &amp;lt;Param type=&quot;RichBool&quot; value=&quot;false&quot; name=&quot;Selected&quot;/&amp;gt;&#xA; &amp;lt;/filter&amp;gt;&#xA;&amp;lt;/FilterScript&amp;gt;&#xA;&quot;&quot;&quot;&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;def create_tmp_filter_file(filename='filter_file_tmp.mlx'):&#xA;    with open('/tmp/' + filename, 'w') as f:&#xA;        f.write(filter_script_mlx)&#xA;    return '/tmp/' + filename&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;def reduce_faces(in_file, out_file,&#xA;                 filter_script_path=create_tmp_filter_file()):&#xA;    # Add input mesh&#xA;    command = &quot;meshlabserver -i &quot; + in_file&#xA;    # Add the filter script&#xA;    command += &quot; -s &quot; + filter_script_path&#xA;    # Add the output filename and output flags&#xA;    command += &quot; -o &quot; + out_file + &quot; -om vn fn&quot;&#xA;    # Execute command&#xA;    print &quot;Going to execute: &quot; + command&#xA;    output = subprocess.check_output(command, shell=True)&#xA;    last_line = output.splitlines()[-1]&#xA;    print&#xA;    print &quot;Done:&quot;&#xA;    print in_file + &quot; &amp;gt; &quot; + out_file + &quot;: &quot; + last_line&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;if __name__ == '__main__':&#xA;    if len(sys.argv) &amp;lt; 3:&#xA;        print &quot;Usage:&quot;&#xA;        print sys.argv[0] + &quot; /path/to/input_mesh num_iterations&quot;&#xA;        print &quot;For example, reduce 10 times:&quot;&#xA;        print sys.argv[0] + &quot; /home/myuser/mymesh.dae 10&quot;&#xA;        exit(0)&#xA;&#xA;    in_mesh = sys.argv[1]&#xA;    filename = in_mesh.split('/')[-1]&#xA;    num_iterations = int(sys.argv[2])&#xA;&#xA;    folder_name = filename.replace('.', '_')&#xA;    tmp_folder_name = '/tmp/' + folder_name + '_meshes/'&#xA;&#xA;    print &quot;Input mesh: &quot; + in_mesh + &quot; (filename: &quot; + filename + &quot;)&quot;&#xA;    print &quot;Num iterations: &quot; + str(num_iterations)&#xA;    print &quot;Output folder: &quot; + tmp_folder_name&#xA;    try:&#xA;        os.mkdir(tmp_folder_name)&#xA;    except OSError as e:&#xA;        print &amp;gt;&amp;gt; sys.stderr, &quot;Exception creating folder for meshes: &quot; + str(e)&#xA;        exit(0)&#xA;    for it in range(1, num_iterations):&#xA;        if it == 1:&#xA;            out_mesh = tmp_folder_name + folder_name + &quot;_it&quot; + str(it) + &quot;.dae&quot;&#xA;            reduce_faces(in_mesh, out_mesh)&#xA;        else:&#xA;            out_mesh = tmp_folder_name + folder_name + &quot;_it&quot; + str(it) + &quot;.dae&quot;&#xA;            reduce_faces(last_out_mesh, out_mesh)&#xA;        last_out_mesh = out_mesh&#xA;&#xA;    print&#xA;print &quot;Done reducing, find the files at: &quot; + tmp_folder_name&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;here are some updates for python 3.6.2: &lt;a href=&quot;https://gist.github.com/tylerlindell/7435ca2261e7c404ccc1241f18e483aa&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://gist.github.com/tylerlindell/7435ca2261e7c404ccc1241f18e483aa&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4762" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-07-30T21:17:29.810" LastActivityDate="2018-07-30T21:17:29.810" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6503" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6498" CreationDate="2018-07-30T06:57:36.437" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;A lead screw can be fitted with a anti-backlash nut to get past your concern about backlash. Generally, backlash is not that of a problem considering the weight of the carriage (e.g. Prusa), or whole bed (e.g. CoreXY or Ultimaker). Certainly if you're not using Z-hop, the Z screw will only advance in a single direction!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;GT2 belts are always reinforced with fibres either glass, steel or some other fibre, all with their own (dis)advantages.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as I have learned is that lead screws are far better capable of transporting higher loads at the cost of speed. Also, a leadscrew will have more resistance so that if you unpower the steppers, the gantry will not plummet to the bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2018-07-30T06:57:36.437" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6505" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6451" CreationDate="2018-07-30T15:30:52.360" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Preheating the bed is a commonly used approach to shorten the time to print. I'll explain; it actually does not shorten the physical print time itself, but before you start a print there is always stuff to do like inserting the SD-card or loading the model in the print server, while you do that, the bed will be heating, so time gained.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you load a model it apparently resets the temperatures, so preheating will only have an effect when you also actually set the bed temperature in the G-code file. This means that either your G-code file has some codes that influence the temperature, the connector is loose or loading a print over the program you use must reset the bed temperature, there aren't any other options.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To comment on your G-code, M109 is used to set the extruder temperature and wait till it is reached, M190 is used to set the bed temperature and wait till it is reached. Usually M190 is used to set the bed temperature before the first layer is being printed; the printer waits until the temperature is reached before the printer continues to the next command (usually the heating of the hotend). If you have selected a different temperature for the rest of the print you will find the M140 G-code command prior to printing the second layer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have tested on my Prusa i3 clone running a Marlin fork to print a model with all references to M190 and M140 removed. I pre-heated to 70 &amp;deg;C (for PETG) and loaded the model in OctoPrint print server and commenced the print. The printer retained the bed value and did not drop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically, it is needed to take a closer look at your G-code file. The answer must be in there. If there is nothing to find in the G-code file and electronic connections are fine, the answer must be found in ReplicatorG, this might send reset signals prior to sending the print, but that sounds really strange.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2018-07-30T15:30:52.360" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6506" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5869" CreationDate="2018-07-30T19:37:53.293" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Although the bed may only reach 60°, the extrusion above the battery will be at closer to 200°C. Granted there will be a fairly low heat flux, but it will still cause ageing of the battery. At a minimum, some insulation or packing above the battery would seem like a sensible move. This could be printed material, and you could print over the top if you really want to seal the part.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also remember that as LiPo cells age, they generate gas (this is designed to be trapped in the pouch) and swell. You should try and avoid any risk of puncture if this happens.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4927" LastEditorUserId="4927" LastEditDate="2018-07-30T22:18:34.783" LastActivityDate="2018-07-30T22:18:34.783" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6507" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5950" CreationDate="2018-07-30T22:33:29.903" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Skynet3D was a very old fork from Marlin firmware, all functionality (more specifically for the odd LCD screens used by Anet) have been merged into Marlin firmware. Just get the latest version of Marlin. The current and final release of branch 1.1.x is 1.1.9 further development will be done in 2.0.x. Version 1.1.9 works perfectly fine for the Anet A8.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These error messages are displayed when you have either selected the wrong COM port or wrong Arduino board or have faulty or no drivers installed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-10-02T19:03:44.457" LastActivityDate="2018-10-02T19:03:44.457" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6508" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4651" CreationDate="2018-07-30T22:41:58.933" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;By adjusting/calibration of the center of the bed you will automatically find the correct offset values. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is explained in detail in &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6375/how-to-center-my-prints-on-the-build-platform#answer-6376&quot;&gt;this answer&lt;/a&gt; to the question &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/q/6375/5740&quot;&gt;How to center my prints on the build platform?&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-07-31T01:33:03.800" LastActivityDate="2018-07-31T01:33:03.800" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6510" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3637" CreationDate="2018-07-31T06:15:02.000" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The image shows that somehow steps in Y direction (under the assumption that you have taken the photograph from the front) are missed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Missing steps can be caused by too high settings for acceleration and jerk, too much friction on the undercarriage or the belt assembly, undercarriage catching something at a certain point, too less current through the stepper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could increase the torque on the stepper by increasing the V&lt;sub&gt;ref&lt;/sub&gt; of your stepper driver is you have separate stepper driver modules, or a adjustment screw on the printer controller board. Furthermore reduce the acceleration and jerk settings and check the undercarriage for stick-slip movement by disconnecting the belt, then reconnect the belt and check for friction of the pulleys.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2018-07-31T06:15:02.000" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6511" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6514" CreationDate="2018-07-31T07:54:46.837" Score="8" ViewCount="2354" Body="&lt;p&gt;High performance polymers are becoming available for specific applications.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of such materials is PEEK (&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Polyether_ether_ketone&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;PolyEther Ether Ketone&lt;/a&gt;), a thermoplastic polymer in the polyaryletherketone (PAEK) family. PEEK competes with certain Aluminium alloys but is half the weight of Aluminium. For aerospace application this sounds very promising!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;NASA has &lt;a href=&quot;https://ntrs.nasa.gov/archive/nasa/casi.ntrs.nasa.gov/20170000214.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;shown&lt;/a&gt; that printing these types of polymers is feasible using low-cost, open source hardware.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Does anybody know why the prices of PEEK are so high?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on the supplier/manufacturer you're looking at about 700 - 900 Euro per kg.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fqNar.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fqNar.png&quot; alt=&quot;Natural colored PEEK filament samples&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2018-08-07T12:12:09.223" Title="Why is PEEK filament so expensive?" Tags="|filament|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6513" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6516" CreationDate="2018-07-31T12:03:38.773" Score="6" ViewCount="13048" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm one of the lucky (??) Kickstarter supporters who received a T3D resin printer.  This uses a proprietary (so far as I can tell) resin which cures under exposure to visible, rather than the usual UV, light.  The manual is full of dire warnings about touching the resin, but no MSDS.&#xA;Anyone know if there is a datasheet on their resin, or more generally, for light-curing resins in general?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;(see &lt;a href=&quot;http://myt3d.com/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;myt3d.com&lt;/a&gt;  for limited info on the machine and the resin)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2191" LastActivityDate="2018-07-31T17:49:15.303" Title="Toxicity of Light-curing resin?" Tags="|sla|resin|t3d|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6514" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6511" CreationDate="2018-07-31T12:45:51.267" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;My assumptions about PEEK filament price are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Raw material is more expensive. Compare price of &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.alibaba.com/showroom/abs-pellet.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;ABS&lt;/a&gt; with &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.alibaba.com/showroom/peek-pellet.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;PEEK&lt;/a&gt; pellets.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Demand is much lower. There are not many printers able to print peek. If you manufacture PEEK filament you have to store a filament batch for longer time. Manufacturer has to calculate into price storage space, material degradation, ...&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Filament machine tuning. You have to tune filament extrude machine for PEEK, which takes time because it's a totally different plastic. Maybe there is a cleanup needed after finishing a batch and switching to another material.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Working conditions. PEEK is quite smelly and I am not sure if you have to improve work conditions like better ventilation. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Research costs. You have to distribute research costs to a filament production where demand is low. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="75" LastActivityDate="2018-07-31T12:45:51.267" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6515" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3698" CreationDate="2018-07-31T13:03:26.323" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;First thing I would do is to update firmware to the newest version: &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/dc42/RepRapFirmware/releases&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://github.com/dc42/RepRapFirmware/releases&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See details on Duet wiki page: &lt;a href=&quot;https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Guide#Section_Updating_Firmware_and_Duet_Web_Control&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Guide#Section_Updating_Firmware_and_Duet_Web_Control&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="75" LastActivityDate="2018-07-31T13:03:26.323" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6516" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6513" CreationDate="2018-07-31T17:49:15.303" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;While you probably cannot find an MSDS on the resin for your printer (yet), they are out there for other resin based printers. Here's a generic MSDS on one for Objet RGD515:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gG0bS.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gG0bS.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's not a pretty thing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To back this up, Fabbaloo has two articles out which talk about the toxicity of liquid resin which is light cured. I'm not &lt;em&gt;entirely&lt;/em&gt; positive your resin falls into this arena, but would assume since they state in the handling instructions it's toxic, it's probably right along the same lines as the other toxic resins. Please note, in the article it states there are resins out which &lt;em&gt;aren't toxic&lt;/em&gt;. They suggest one should handle all resins of this type as though they are toxic unless you have specific documentation which states otherwise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fabbaloo.com/blog/2015/11/5/3d-printing-materials-toxicity-assessment-yes-toxic&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;In one of the articles (Nov 2015)&lt;/a&gt; quotes findings which were published by the University of California, Riverside. Their study focused on zebrafish embryos and the toxicity of two different 3D printed materials which are commonly used. The materials were Stratasys Dimension Elite (plastic extrusion) and Formlab’s Form 1+ (photo-cured resin). These printed samples were placed in zebrafish tanks to observe their effects on fish embryos and compare to “control” tanks without the samples.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The University stated:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While the embryos exposed to parts from the plastic-melting printer had slightly decreased average survival rates compared to control embryos, the embryos exposed to parts from the liquid-resin printer had significantly decreased survival rates, with more than half of the embryos dead by day three and all dead by day seven. And of the few zebrafish embryos that hatched after exposure to parts from the liquid-resin printer, 100 percent of the hatchlings had developmental abnormalities.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fabbaloo.com/blog/2016/4/20/the-two-dirty-secrets-of-resin-3d-printing&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Here is the second Fabbaloo article from April 2016.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fomrlabs has &lt;a href=&quot;https://formlabs.com/3d-printers/form-2/tech-specs/#material-properties&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;quite an extensive list of MSDS sheets&lt;/a&gt; for their products. Their page states the following about their resin materials:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Formlabs Standard resins are designed to be similar or safer to handle as other household chemicals or adhesives. When measuring potential acute health effects of inhalation or ingestion, there are no known significant effects or critical hazards. Eye contact may cause eye irritation. Skin contact may cause an allergic skin reaction. The safety data sheets (SDS) are up to date for every resin product and follow the latest government guidelines. Always consult the SDS as the primary source of information to understand safety and handling of Formlabs materials.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Use chemical-resistant gloves - such as nitrile or neoprene; do not use latex - when handling liquid resin, including when removing printed parts from the printer. Exposure to resin in the liquid form can cause mild skin irritation for some people. If you get any on your skin, make sure to wash thoroughly with soap and water before moving on to other activities. Do not use solvents to wash hands, face, or any body parts. Wear gloves and use alcohol, followed by soap and water, to clean tools after handling resin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While this is not conclusive about your specific resin, like was stated, always treat the material as though it &lt;em&gt;is toxic&lt;/em&gt; until documentation tells you otherwise. If all else fails, treat it as toxic and you can't go wrong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11242" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:29:41.667" LastActivityDate="2018-07-31T17:49:15.303" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6517" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="322" CreationDate="2018-07-31T18:48:43.043" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I print several pats that use 2.5mm &quot;Pogo pins&quot; which are spring-loaded electric contacts.  I've found that many variables will influence the size of the holes I have in my design.  Flow, temperature even different brands of filament will change the final size.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I create a profile for each part and specific filament.  That way I can make changes without changing other parts/projects.  Then I print a test piece with some 2.5mm holes and a few that are a few tenths of a millimeter larger and smaller.  I also make holes in the test piece that are vertical and some that are horizontal as I've found that orientation to the layers makes a difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I then fit the pins in my test piece and note which orientation and diameter fit best.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After that, I lock down every variable I can think of!&#xA;I added some desiccant beads to my filament storage bins and found even that increased the diameter of the printed holes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12491" LastActivityDate="2018-07-31T18:48:43.043" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6518" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6316" CreationDate="2018-07-31T18:54:52.120" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;After having looked into them, these boards certainly seem to be rather interesting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There appear to be two varieties of this board, as I have seen photos with either &lt;em&gt;RobotDyn&lt;/em&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/l7vGQ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;RobotDyn board&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/l7vGQ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;RobotDyn board&quot; title=&quot;RobotDyn board&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;rear (from Instructables)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rwceY.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;RobotDyn board (rear)&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rwceY.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;RobotDyn board (rear)&quot; title=&quot;RobotDyn board (rear)&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;or &lt;em&gt;WeMos&lt;/em&gt; logos on them. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/62P2A.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;WeMos board&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/62P2A.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;WeMos board&quot; title=&quot;WeMos board&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They &lt;em&gt;may&lt;/em&gt;, or &lt;em&gt;may not&lt;/em&gt;, be the same. There is also this one, with just a generic &quot;WiFi&quot; logo (from the eBay page below):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ybdWZ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Generic board&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ybdWZ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Generic board&quot; title=&quot;Generic board&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Memory Discrepancies&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, there is certainly some discrepancy relating to the specification and amount of memory (unless there are a number of variants - which would certainly be possible):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;4&amp;nbsp;MB of Flash is in the ESP8266-12, as &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6316/arduino-wemos-and-ramps#comment9539_6316&quot;&gt;Dan states&lt;/a&gt;, see &lt;a href=&quot;https://shop.pimoroni.com/products/esp8266-smt-module-esp-12&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;ESP8266 SMT Module - ESP-12&lt;/a&gt;. But is it the ESP8266-12 in the board, or is it another ESP variant?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;This &lt;strong&gt;WeMos&lt;/strong&gt; product, on eBay, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.ebay.com/itm/WeMOS-Mega-WiFi-R3-ATmega2560-ESP8266-USB-TTL-For-Arduino-Mega-NodeMCU-/263689252053&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;WeMOS Mega + WiFi R3 ATmega2560 + ESP8266 USB-TTL For Arduino Mega NodeMCU&lt;/a&gt; appears to agree with the 32&amp;nbsp;Mb&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;This &lt;strong&gt;RobotDyn&lt;/strong&gt; board, &lt;a href=&quot;https://robotdyn.ru/catalog/arduino/boards/kontroller_arduino_mega_revizii_r3_s_integrirovannym_chipom_wifi_esp8266_b_8_mb_pamyati.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Контроллер RobotDyn Mega 2560 R3 + WiFi ESP8266b, flash память 8Mbit, USB-TTL CH340G, MicroUSB&lt;/a&gt;, has 8&amp;nbsp;Mb apparently. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;However the &lt;strong&gt;same&lt;/strong&gt; product page, but in English, upgrades the memory to 32 MB! See &lt;a href=&quot;https://robotdyn.com/mega-wifi-r3-atmega2560-esp8266-flash-32mb-usb-ttl-ch340g-micro-usb.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;MEGA+WiFi R3 ATmega2560+ESP8266, flash 32MB, USB-TTL CH340G, Micro-USB&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looking at this article, Instructables - &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.instructables.com/id/Arduino-MEGA-2560-With-WiFi-Built-in-ESP8266/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Arduino MEGA 2560 With WiFi Built-in - ESP8266&lt;/a&gt;, it isn't &lt;em&gt;exactly&lt;/em&gt; the ESP8266-12:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;In today's text, we discuss an Arduino that I consider extremely special, as it has an ESP8266 embedded in its board. It doesn’t have the ESP12 soldered onto the board. Instead, it has the Espressif chip. So, on the board you have the built-in Tensilica chip with 4MB of memory, along with the ATmega2560, which is the traditional Arduino Mega.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the ESP has 4&amp;nbsp;MB, but where does the 32&amp;nbsp;Mb come in to play?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Well, looking at this RobotDyn memory table (taken from the Instructables page):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oAmbU.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;RobotDyn memory table&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oAmbU.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;RobotDyn memory table&quot; title=&quot;RobotDyn memory table&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The 4&amp;nbsp;MB of the ESP appears to have been immediately contradicted and upgraded to 8&amp;nbsp;MB! The ATmega2560 &lt;em&gt;somehow&lt;/em&gt; has 32&amp;nbsp;Mb (which seems a bit of a lie - as there isn't an ATmega2560 &lt;em&gt;known to man&lt;/em&gt; that has that much memory&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;), and is confused further by the corresponding text:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;As we see in the table above, the ATmega has 32MB of memory, not counting the ESP memory. This is wonderful, since the traditional Mega Arduino has only 256kb of memory. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So &lt;code&gt;MB&lt;/code&gt; or &lt;code&gt;Mb&lt;/code&gt;? Is there an additional flash IC external to the ATmega2560? Looking at the schematic, taken from the Russian RobotDyn page, there doesn't appear to be:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dX5UC.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;RobotDyn schematic&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dX5UC.png&quot; alt=&quot;RobotDyn schematic&quot; title=&quot;RobotDyn schematic&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So this could be nonsense. Logic would dictate that the ATmega has 256&amp;nbsp;kB and the ESP has 4&amp;nbsp;MB... But I could be wrong..?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Links from &lt;a href=&quot;https://robotdyn.ru/catalog/arduino/boards/kontroller_arduino_mega_revizii_r3_s_integrirovannym_chipom_wifi_esp8266_b_8_mb_pamyati.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Контроллер RobotDyn Mega 2560 R3 + WiFi ESP8266b, flash память 8Mbit, USB-TTL CH340G, MicroUSB&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Schematic (&lt;a href=&quot;https://robotdyn.ru/upload/PHOTO/0G-00005302==MEGA+WiFi-R3-AT2560-ESP8266-8MB-CH340G/DOCS/Schematic==0G-00005302==MEGA+WiFi-R3-AT2560-ESP8266-8MB-CH340G.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;PDF&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pin out (&lt;a href=&quot;https://robotdyn.ru/upload/PHOTO/0G-00005302==MEGA+WiFi-R3-AT2560-ESP8266-8MB-CH340G/DOCS/PINOUT==0G-00005302==MEGA+WiFi-R3-AT2560-ESP8266-8MB-CH340G.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;PDF&lt;/a&gt;) (&lt;a href=&quot;https://robotdyn.ru/upload/PHOTO/0G-00005302==MEGA+WiFi-R3-AT2560-ESP8266-8MB-CH340G/DOCS/PINOUT==0G-00005302==MEGA+WiFi-R3-AT2560-ESP8266-8MB-CH340G.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;JPG&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mechanics (&lt;a href=&quot;https://robotdyn.ru/upload/PHOTO/0G-00005302==MEGA+WiFi-R3-AT2560-ESP8266-8MB-CH340G/DOCS/DIM==0G-00005302==MEGA+WiFi-R3-AT2560-ESP8266-8MB-CH340G.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;PDF&lt;/a&gt;) (&lt;a href=&quot;https://robotdyn.ru/upload/PHOTO/0G-00005302==MEGA+WiFi-R3-AT2560-ESP8266-8MB-CH340G/DOCS/DIM==0G-00005302==MEGA+WiFi-R3-AT2560-ESP8266-8MB-CH340G.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;JPG&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Reliability of communication&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regardless of the actual spec, to address your question of ESP/Arduino communication reliability:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As the ESP8266 and the ATmega2560 are on the &lt;em&gt;same&lt;/em&gt; board one would assume that the (serial) communication between the two would be faultless. However, some issues have been reported&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Nevertheless, from your question, it seems that you were having issues with the ESP to the OctoPi communication, rather than ESP to Arduino, so maybe this doesn't actually answer your question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, as to their compatibility with RAMPS, there is very little information available currently, and it would seem to be a case of try-it-and-see. The closest I got was &lt;a href=&quot;https://groups.io/g/onstep/message/154&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this post&lt;/a&gt; on the thread, &lt;a href=&quot;https://groups.io/g/onstep/topic/onstep_and_ramps1_4/7358494?p=Created,,,20,2,0,0::,,,0,0,0,7358494&amp;amp;jump=1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;OnStep and RAMPS1.4&lt;/a&gt;, but it seems to be spam. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, it certainly sounds worth a gamble as it would be a nice combination of technologies. However, I would imagine that some modification of the firmware would be necessary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Useful Notes&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;From &lt;a href=&quot;https://forum.arduino.cc/index.php?topic=464400.msg3485996#msg3485996&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;post #8&lt;/a&gt; of Mega + WiFi R3 ATmega2560 + ESP8266 (8 Mb mémoire)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;To upload the sketch to the board:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;5, 6, 7 ON&#xA;RXD3 - TXD3   &#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;To run the sketch:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;5 and 6 ON&#xA;RXD3 - TXD3&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Here is an &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sysengineering.ru/blog/%D1%8D%D0%BB%D0%B5%D0%BA%D1%82%D1%80%D0%BE%D0%BD%D0%B8%D0%BA%D0%B0-%D0%BA%D0%BE%D0%BD%D1%82%D1%80%D0%BE%D0%BB%D0%BB%D0%B5%D1%80-arduino-mega-%D1%81-esp8266/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;excellent manual in Russian&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Footnotes&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;  From &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.ebay.com/itm/WeMOS-Mega-WiFi-R3-ATmega2560-ESP8266-USB-TTL-For-Arduino-Mega-NodeMCU-/263689252053&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;WeMOS Mega + WiFi R3 ATmega2560 + ESP8266 USB-TTL For Arduino Mega NodeMCU&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;h3&gt;WeMOS Mega + WiFi R3 ATmega2560 + ESP8266 USB-TTL For Arduino Mega NodeMCU 　&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Features:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Full integration on one board: Mega R3 ATmega2560 and WiFi ESP8266 with memory 32Mb (megabyte)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;All of the modules can work together or each separately. And everyone has their own pinout headers&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The convenient solution for the development of new projects requiring Uno and WiFi &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Via USB you can update sketches and firmware for ATmega2560 and for ESP8266. For this on board have the USB-serial converter CH340G&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Use this board is very simple&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;The board has DIP-switch, to connect the modules. For example to:&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;USB and ATmeg2560, &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;USB and ESP8266, &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;ATmega2560 and ESP8266&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Table DIP- Switch:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Connection                                                          DIP&#xA;                                           1        2        3         4       5         6        7&#xA;ATmega2560&amp;lt;-&amp;gt;ESP8266                      ON       ON       OFF       OFF     OFF       OFF      OFF&#xA;USB &amp;lt;-&amp;gt;ATmega2560                         OFF      OFF      ON        ON      OFF       OFF      OFF&#xA;USB&amp;lt;-&amp;gt;ESP8266 (Update firmware or sketch) OFF      OFF      OFF       OFF     ON        ON       ON&#xA;USB&amp;lt;-&amp;gt;ESP8266 (communication)             OFF      OFF      OFF       OFF     ON        ON       OFF&#xA;All independent                           OFF      OFF      OFF       OFF     OFF       OFF      OFF&#xA;&#xA;Special solution:&#xA;USB &amp;lt;-&amp;gt;ATmega328&amp;lt;-&amp;gt; ESP8266&#xA;Connection                                                          DIP                                     SWITCH 2&#xA;                                           1        2        3         4       5         6        7&#xA;&#xA;USB &amp;lt;-&amp;gt; ATmega2560&amp;lt;-&amp;gt; ESP8266             ON       ON       ON        ON      OFF       OFF      OFF         To RXD3/TXD3&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;USB converter CH340G connect to RX0/TX0 of ATmega2560&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;ESP8266 connect to RX3/TX3 of ATmega2560&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Size: 10.5x5.3cm/4.13x2.09inch&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; From the &lt;a href=&quot;http://ww1.microchip.com/downloads/en/DeviceDoc/Atmel-2549-8-bit-AVR-Microcontroller-ATmega640-1280-1281-2560-2561_datasheet.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Atmel ATmega640/V-1280/V&#xA;-1281/V-2560/V-2561/V datasheet&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4zAjV.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4zAjV.png&quot; alt=&quot;ATmega256 memory&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt; From &lt;a href=&quot;https://forum.arduino.cc/index.php?topic=464400.0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Mega + WiFi R3 ATmega2560 + ESP8266 (8 Mb mémoire)&lt;/a&gt;, there &lt;em&gt;do&lt;/em&gt; appear to be some issues communicating between the ATmega and the ESP ICs, with a number of users reporting problems. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, a couple of solutions are provided:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Solution 1&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From &lt;a href=&quot;https://forum.arduino.cc/index.php?topic=464400.msg3220188#msg3220188&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;post #2&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;ol&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Set the DIP switch to &quot;special&quot; mode: (&lt;code&gt;1=on, 2=on, 3=on, 4=on, 5=off, 6=off, 7=off, 8=off&lt;/code&gt;) see the the description of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mega-WiFi-R3-ATmega2560-ESP8266-USB-TTL-Arduino-Mega-NodeMCU-WeMos-ESP8266-/222305385421&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;the&#xA;  product&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Set the switch in RXD3&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Run the below sketch, change the SSID and PASSWORD values. this is just to test that Arduino and ESP8266 are working together. The code&#xA;  originated from BISSA ORBOEA in Element14.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Code:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#include &quot;ESP8266.h&quot;&#xA;&#xA;#define SSID        &quot;YOURSID&quot;&#xA;#define PASSWORD    &quot;YOURPASSWORD&quot;&#xA;&#xA;ESP8266 wifi(Serial3,115200);&#xA;&#xA;void setup() {&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;  Serial.begin(9600);              &#xA;&#xA;  Serial.println(&quot;Restart&quot;);&#xA;  wifi.restart();&#xA;  delay(1000);&#xA;&#xA;  Serial.println(&quot;FW Version:&quot;);&#xA;  Serial.println(wifi.getVersion().c_str());&#xA;&#xA;    if (wifi.setOprToStation()) {&#xA;        Serial.println(&quot;OprToStation ok&quot;);    }&#xA;        else {&#xA;        Serial.println(&quot;OprToStation  err&quot;);&#xA;    }&#xA;&#xA;    if (wifi.joinAP(SSID, PASSWORD)) {&#xA;        Serial.println(&quot;Join AP success&quot;);&#xA;&#xA;        Serial.print(&quot;IP:&quot;);&#xA;        Serial.println( wifi.getLocalIP().c_str());      &#xA;    } else {&#xA;        Serial.println(&quot;Join AP failure&quot;);&#xA;    }&#xA;}&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;void loop()&#xA;{&#xA;}&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Solution 2&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From &lt;a href=&quot;https://forum.arduino.cc/index.php?topic=464400.msg3301552#msg3301552&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;post #6&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;First you need to write the code for each board according your&#xA;  application, but in your code you need to establish a commmincation&#xA;  between serial port of Atmega and ESP in both code, again in according&#xA;  you application. Finally, put the switches which make the intenal&#xA;  interconnection between both. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;For example, I made a code for ESP to connect in an Access Point and&#xA;  put on a TCP server. When a wireless client is connected in ESP and&#xA;  consequently in the TCP Server, all data send by client I redirect to&#xA;  the serial port. As serial port of ESP is connected with serial 3 of&#xA;  the Atmega, the code in Atmega pass to theat the data from serial 3.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Solution 3&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From &lt;a href=&quot;https://forum.arduino.cc/index.php?topic=464400.msg3500882#msg3500882&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;post #11&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Follow this if you have the same to my cases:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ol&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;programm to the ESP(upload sketch) for wifi connection by configure the DIP to 5:on,6:on,7:on and other off.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;program to mega(upload sketch) in case you want to send communication to each other by configure Dip to 3:on,4:on, and other&#xA;  off.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;switch two  RX0/TX0(in my case I use Serial.print() and Serial.readString() for communicate between Esp and Mega)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;after you already upload sketch to both Modules you can test communication between them by configure DIP to: 1:on,2:on,3:on,4:on.&#xA;  and then press Reset Button to restart the boards.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;In ESP you can get the string from Mega by  if(Serial.available()) Serial.readString();  and In mega you can get data from ESP by :&#xA;  if(Serial.available())Serial.readString().  &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;After you got a string so you can split or do anything whatever you want. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;If you want send data to Firebase you must use the Firebase Library at the Esp side, in Mega it not support.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4762" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-08-01T08:35:37.587" LastActivityDate="2018-08-01T08:35:37.587" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6519" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6511" CreationDate="2018-07-31T19:24:30.083" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Patents&lt;/strong&gt; still seem to play a role as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was curious about this question and did a bit of research: If you filter the &lt;a href=&quot;https://patents.google.com/?q=%22Polyether%20ether%20ketone%22&amp;amp;country=US&amp;amp;after=priority:20100101&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;U.S. patents after 2010 mentioning PEEK&lt;/a&gt; and its various applications and improvements, you still get roughly 10,000 patents. Those are not all primarily patents for PEEK, but still.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even &lt;em&gt;Victrex PLC&lt;/em&gt;, formerly named &lt;em&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://drakeplastics.com/peek/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Imperial Chemical Industries&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/em&gt;, who filed the &lt;a href=&quot;https://register.epo.org/application?number=EP78300314&amp;amp;tab=main&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;first patent for PEEK back in 1978&lt;/a&gt;, had a &lt;a href=&quot;https://patents.justia.com/patent/20160208045&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;patent published in 2016&lt;/a&gt; for a new PEEK production procedure:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The process can be used to produce high quality, relatively light&#xA;  coloured polymers having a lower Tm than those produced using a&#xA;  standard PEEK process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10684" LastActivityDate="2018-07-31T19:24:30.083" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6520" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5585" CreationDate="2018-08-01T01:11:40.203" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I’ve bought two printers (CR-10S and Ender 2)from Tiny Machines in Houston Texas.  They unbox them from China and assemble them and make a test print.  You get a checklist of the tests performed.  They will also flash a bootloader and updated Marlin for $10.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yeah, you’ll pay more but if you spend any time in printer forums you’ll hear lots of complaining about missing/broken parts or DOA units.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They also stock spare parts here in the US. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck to you!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12491" LastActivityDate="2018-08-01T01:11:40.203" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6521" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6342" CreationDate="2018-08-01T01:22:11.797" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Ender 3 and the CR-10 printers use the same board which runs on both 12V and 24V.  I have one of each and have to be careful swapping parts between the two.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12491" LastActivityDate="2018-08-01T01:22:11.797" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6522" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6523" CreationDate="2018-08-01T05:50:15.653" Score="37" ViewCount="61621" Body="&lt;p&gt;I´ve have read an article to change different pattern depending on amount of layers, but my question is if is possible to have different infill in the same part? For example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Base: has the infill of 25&amp;nbsp;% but the same base has some tabs for screws and mount the part for this area the infill need to be 40&amp;nbsp;% or greater.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The walls and forms: this has the same of the whole part and can be filled at 25&amp;nbsp;% but some areas need to be filled at 15&amp;nbsp;% or less.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Probably someone has seen or reviewed another software to achieve this, or I'm fooling myself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4454" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-02-11T06:04:34.377" LastActivityDate="2022-01-09T07:31:19.507" Title="Different infill in the same part" Tags="|slicing|infill|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6523" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6522" CreationDate="2018-08-01T06:50:32.077" Score="37" Body="&lt;p&gt;This answer explains that you can have different infill within the same part. Firstly the implementation in &lt;strong&gt;Ultimaker Cura&lt;/strong&gt; is described, secondly how you can do this in &lt;strong&gt;Slic3r&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Ultimaker Cura&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've used a feature in &lt;strong&gt;Ultimaker Cura&lt;/strong&gt; that can be used to alter the infill density locally. What you need to do is load your model into Cura, then load other objects (models) at the size of the area/volume you want your infill differently and position those at the position you want a different infill. Alternatively, you can add support blocker cubes that can be used as well.  So basically, you use other models to intersect with your primary model to create intersections that can take a different infill percentage (please note that you can alter even more options, as long as you add these to the intersecting volume). This is extremely useful for lugs and brackets where you need some extra infill (e.g. extra stiffness for compression stresses) at the fastener holes. Note that this is an advanced feature which is not easy to use, but quite handy if you master it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I could not find the video (&lt;em&gt;on second thoughts, I think it was animated GIF&lt;/em&gt;) posted by Team Ultimaker, so I quote a section of one of their forum topics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://community.ultimaker.com/topic/20470-infill-density-for-smaller-parts/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;A short how-to:&lt;/a&gt; (italic font is not in the reference, but added to reflect recent version of Cura)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Unselect &amp;quot;keep models apart&amp;quot; &lt;em&gt;(now called: &amp;quot;Ensure models are kept apart&amp;quot;)&lt;/em&gt; and &amp;quot;drop models to build plate&amp;quot; &lt;em&gt;(now called: &amp;quot;Automatically drop models to the build plate&amp;quot;)&lt;/em&gt; in Cura preferences&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Import a second object (for example a simple cube)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Put Cura in &amp;quot;custom mode&amp;quot;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Select the cube, and use the button &amp;quot;per object settings&amp;quot; on the left side&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Select &amp;quot;Infill Mesh&amp;quot; &lt;em&gt;(now called: &amp;quot;Modify settings for infill of other models&amp;quot;)&lt;/em&gt; and enable that setting&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The cube now turns transparent gray.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Position the cube to overlap part of your model. It should overlap with the section that you want to change the infill for.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Also with &amp;quot;per object settings&amp;quot; &lt;em&gt;(now called: &amp;quot;Per model settings&amp;quot;)&lt;/em&gt; select the option &amp;quot;infill density&amp;quot;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Set it to the desired value. All is more or less illustrated in the screenshot below&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The picture shows a cube on the buildplate with infill 20 %. Locally, with a rotated 2nd cube, the infill % is raised to 100 %.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What happens is that the volume where the cube intersects with your object is locally sliced with different infill.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oIjIj.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oIjIj.png&quot; alt=&quot;Example of a cube with different infill settings&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please find below another example of a simple bracket that has extra cylindrical objects loaded to create the intersections with the bracket at the fastener holes. In the &lt;a href=&quot;https://community.ultimaker.com/topic/20470-infill-density-for-smaller-parts/?do=findComment&amp;amp;comment=193146&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;example&lt;/a&gt;, the infill at the fastener holes is set to 99 %.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MqSpA.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MqSpA.png&quot; alt=&quot;Example of local 99 % infill at bracket fastener holes&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After slicing, you will see that the infill at the intersections is adjusted accordingly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/v9guy.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/v9guy.png&quot; alt=&quot;Detail of sliced bracket showing local infill percentage&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Note:&lt;/strong&gt; I've tested this in Ultimaker Cura 3.4.1, and confirm it works. I sliced a part with the inserts for fasteners and it actually is not very difficult, it just requires a little more work. You will have to make some STL's of cylinders and position them correctly. If you make your own 3D models it will be a very easy task to add extra components while you design, positioning will be a lot more easy then (as they align with your model). An example is the following linear &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4441751/files&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Z rod bracket of a Hypercube Evolution CoreXY printer&lt;/a&gt;, this bracket requires local reinforcements for the bolts clamping the bracket onto the aluminum extrusion profile:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zVlF1.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Hypercube Evolution Z rod bracket&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zVlF1.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; title=&quot;Hypercube Evolution Z rod bracket&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Inserts are modeled together with the development of the bracket:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/w8XlM.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Hypercube Evolution Z rod bracket insert&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/w8XlM.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; title=&quot;Hypercube Evolution Z rod bracket insert&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When combined, it looks like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qJszQ.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Hypercube Evolution Z rod bracket and bracket insert&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qJszQ.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; title=&quot;Hypercube Evolution Z rod bracket and bracket insert&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now the infill can be modified locally to 100 % to increase compression strength.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that this will also work if you want a different infill percentage at the first X layers, just use a large cube (larger than the model) and position it correctly. Note that Cura already has an option called &amp;quot;Gradual Infill Steps&amp;quot; to adjust the density at the top layers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Slic3r&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://manual.slic3r.org/advanced/modifier-mesh&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;This reference&lt;/a&gt; describes how to do this for &lt;strong&gt;Slic3r&lt;/strong&gt; in detail.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The blog describes the use of a simple volume (the green volume loaded from an STL file). After loading:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Right-clicking on the main part brought up the object settings menu.&#xA;From there, clicking &amp;quot;Load Modifier&amp;quot; and selecting the previously&#xA;saved model adds it to the part as a modifier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The green &amp;quot;+&amp;quot; was selected and &amp;quot;Fill Density&amp;quot; was added to modifier&#xA;list and set to 100 %.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/llvIG.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/llvIG.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Part with box for alternative mesh infill&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EslBH.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EslBH.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;This shows that the functionality in Slic3r is very similar to the functionality in Ultimaker Cura.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2022-01-09T07:31:19.507" LastActivityDate="2022-01-09T07:31:19.507" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6524" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6540" CreationDate="2018-08-01T12:47:21.620" Score="4" ViewCount="5125" Body="&lt;p&gt;Following on from &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6342/what-level-of-voltage-does-the-creality-ender-3-run-at/6521#comment9993_6521&quot;&gt;What level of voltage does the Creality Ender-3 run at?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6342/what-level-of-voltage-does-the-creality-ender-3-run-at#answer-6521&quot;&gt;Dave's answer&lt;/a&gt; states that both 12&amp;nbsp;V and 24&amp;nbsp;V can be used on the controller board. It also goes on to say that the controller board is used in both configurations in two different printers:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ender 3 and;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;CR-10&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would like to know how this dual voltage operation works:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Does it use both voltages at the same time, or either one or the other? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Are there two different electrical inlets or are they the same?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Does it auto-detect or are there jumpers used to configure or are the components tolerant to both voltage levels? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also related:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What is the board used? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is the board a proprietary design or a standard third party board? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Does anyone have any photos of the board and/or schematics?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4762" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-08-02T04:53:04.180" LastActivityDate="2022-05-08T19:14:05.373" Title="What are the specifications of the dual voltage controller of the Ender 3/CR-10?" Tags="|electronics|creality-cr-10|creality-ender-3|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6525" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6532" CreationDate="2018-08-01T14:28:24.807" Score="5" ViewCount="588" Body="&lt;p&gt;We know from &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/183/11242&quot;&gt;this answer&lt;/a&gt;, 3d printed materials continue to outgas after printing and being cured. My question relates to this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How much does heating the printed object after printing (or being cured) affect out-gassing? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Does the continued out-gassing degrade the stability/quality of the print?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11242" LastActivityDate="2018-08-01T21:35:52.393" Title="Out-gassing of printed material when heated" Tags="|print-material|safety|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6526" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6525" CreationDate="2018-08-01T14:55:45.387" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The effect of temperature on outgas rates is a subject for Engineering.SE . As to continued outgassing - depends on the material in question.  To pick an extreme example, solid CO2 (dry ice) will outgas until it's gone.  But stuff that's got VOCs is expected to outgas; said volatiles leave by design and the remaining material stands on its own.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2191" LastActivityDate="2018-08-01T14:55:45.387" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6527" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6522" CreationDate="2018-08-01T15:03:12.610" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't particularly recommend the following, but it may be easier than 0scar's answer (which I would recommend implementing if you use Cura).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Slice your object twice, once at the lower infill and once at the higher infil.  Then open both gcode files in a text editor and replace all per-layer code in one file with the code from the same layers in the other file.   This certainly takes some care to ensure no bugs fall in, and you'll want to know the exact layers at which to change infill.  Further, this only changes density on a per-layer basis, not on an X-Y region basis. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2191" LastActivityDate="2018-08-01T15:03:12.610" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6528" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-08-01T16:50:55.333" Score="11" ViewCount="405" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been wondering about 3D metal printing (steel, aluminium), but after a short research on google I found only too expensive printers (markforged, desktop metal and a few other industrial ones). Is there any less expensive printer that is able to print metal parts on the market ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12499" LastActivityDate="2018-09-10T14:46:39.067" Title="3D Metal Printing" Tags="|metal-printing|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6529" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6528" CreationDate="2018-08-01T17:04:47.177" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Anzalone and friends published &lt;a href=&quot;https://ieeexplore.ieee.org/document/6678531/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;A Low-Cost Open-Source Metal 3-D Printer&lt;/a&gt; in &lt;em&gt;IEEE Access&lt;/em&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;This paper reports on the development of a open-source metal 3-D printer. The metal 3-D printer is controlled with an open-source micro-controller and is a combination of a low-cost commercial gas-metal arc welder and a derivative of the Rostock, a deltabot RepRap. The bill of materials, electrical and mechanical design schematics, and basic construction and operating procedures are provided.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10684" LastActivityDate="2018-08-01T17:04:47.177" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6531" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5927" CreationDate="2018-08-01T20:07:22.443" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;@TomvanderZanden's comment is right.  You have probably damaged your motherboard and/or driver boards by applying 34 volts.  You should never exceed rated voltages.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It might help to study stepper motor driver circuits a bit.  Stepper drivers usually act as current sources, not as voltage sources.  They typically have a high-frequency switch that applies pulses of voltage so that the current through the inductance of the motor matches the current needs for the desired step position.  Motors generate torque from the strength of the magnetic fields, with is linearly related to the current through the coil.  The voltage drives the current, but the current cannot change instantaneously in an inductive circuit.  Unless the motors have an uncommonly high coil resistance, two to five average volts will be enough to provide the maximum current.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The motors are pretty insensitive to the voltage applied, as long as the current meets the specifications.  The motor driver chips are sensitive to the applied voltage.  They are sensitive because the internal switches and logic can only withstand certain voltages, and they are sensitive because the circuits assume that the current won't change too quickly.  If the current gets so high that the magnetic material in motor saturates, the inductance suddenly becomes much lower, and the current can spike to very high levels.  This current spike can destroy drivers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Heaters also have a voltage spec.  The heaters I've seen are specified for 12 or 24 volts.  To avoid burning out, a heater must have a low enough thermal resistance to the object being heated that the inner heater temperature is not so high that the heating element is damaged.  Powering a 12v heater from 34 volts would cause the current to increase by a factor of 34/12 = 2.83.  The power would be that ratio squared because both the current and the voltage are higher.  The heaters, whenever they were on, would be generating 8.02 times the power.  This might not result in the good behavior of the heater control systems, and could damage the FETs which are driving the heaters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for changing the power supply, before doing that I would want to check that the power supply was not supplying the needed voltage and current.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you've replaced the motherboard and drivers, and configured the drivers for the required operating current, attach a voltmeter to the power supply.  Turn on all the heaters, power up the otors, and watch the supply voltage.  If it remains true (say, within 15%), the power supply isn't the problem.  If the voltage dips, or pulses, or does anything other than staying stable, I would consider a higher current (not higher voltage) supply.  Connecting two supplies in series causes problems with the ground reference of one of the supplies.  Connecting two supplies in parallel, unless they are designed for that use, often isn't any better than a single supply because they will not necessarily share the load well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck!  I look forward to further questions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2082" LastActivityDate="2018-08-01T20:07:22.443" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6532" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6525" CreationDate="2018-08-01T20:38:34.603" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is not an answer to your question, but it relates to outgassing so I am sharing it here.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have used the acetone vapor method of smoothing the surface of ABS prints.  It works really well, and the surface becomes much smoother and glassy.  I printed a large coffee mug (lets, for the moment, ignore food safety issues) and made it very smooth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After a couple of weeks to allow the acetone to fully evaporate, I poured a nice, hot cup of tea.  Unfortunately, the acetone had not fully left the print, and the surface was immediately covered with dozens of bubbles as the acetone evaporated and pushed against the ABS.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This effect was only because of the acetone.  Another cup that had not been vapor smoothed worked perfectly and was unaffected by the hot water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have not seen similar outgassing from PLA, ABS, Nylon, or PETG.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I may hazard an opinion about the substance of your question...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't think that outgassing is the biggest contributor to the aging of prints and their properties changing.  I suspect that (perhaps not in order) these are larger factors:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;exposure to UV light.  UV light breaks polymer bonds and reduces&#xA;the strength of plastic.   &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;absorption of water vapor, which can both expand the material which causes stress, and chemically break polymer bonds.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;long-term crystallization of the material&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;fatigue from repeated sub-failure stress&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;NASA used to have resources that spoke to outgassing rates related to suitability for space applications.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2082" LastEditorUserId="2082" LastEditDate="2018-08-01T21:35:52.393" LastActivityDate="2018-08-01T21:35:52.393" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6533" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6524" CreationDate="2018-08-01T22:27:38.280" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;This answer addresses the input voltage. If you look up the official replacement board at the official Creality store the board features a single pair of connectors next to it says: 12 V / 24 V. So you can either use 12 V, or 24 V, not both. An internal regulator will most probably reduce the voltage anyways. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/W1xgl.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/W1xgl.png&quot; alt=&quot;Detail of the replacement board, single 12/24 V power connector is encircled&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please note that (kindly reminded by user profesor79 through the comments) that the microprocessor on these boards only use 5 V. So any voltage you supply (12 or 24 V), the voltage regulator will always make sure the microprocessor does not get more than 5 V. However, that does not necessarily apply to all peripherals connected to the board! This should be verified if for the peripherals also a voltage regulator is used. One of my own boards, &lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/wiki/RUMBA&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;the RUMBA board&lt;/a&gt; can be fed by any voltage ranging from 12 V - 35 V, but this also applies to the peripherals like the heater cartridge and the fans! I use the RUMBA with a 24 V power supply, so I need to use 24 V fans heater elements and heat bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-08-02T21:42:11.433" LastActivityDate="2018-08-02T21:42:11.433" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6534" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5048" CreationDate="2018-08-02T11:38:20.480" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;To answer your question briefly: &lt;strong&gt;No, ABS will not survive for a duration of at least one year at 80-100°C&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6X0uY.png&quot; alt=&quot;1]&quot;&gt;&#xA;If you look at the chart above (from Tiganis/Burn), you'll notice, that the blue line (ABS 90°C) is decreasing. I did an eyeball calculation of the graph and arrived at the equation (&lt;code&gt;J&lt;/code&gt; for &lt;em&gt;break energy&lt;/em&gt;, &lt;code&gt;h&lt;/code&gt; for &lt;em&gt;hours&lt;/em&gt;):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;J = -0.002h + 14&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Based on that, a break energy of 0 Joule will be reached after &lt;em&gt;7056 hours or 294 days&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you roam around internet forums on 3D printing, you'll find that that value is in the ballpark of people's experiences. I remember one case, where someone put out a piece of ABS in the sun and it broke down after a year.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tiganis; Burn: The Effects of Heat Aging on Acrylonitrile-Butadiene-Styrene (ABS) Blends. In: Lacasse; Vanier (1999): Durability of Building Materials and Components 8, pp. 912-922.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10684" LastEditorUserId="10684" LastEditDate="2018-08-02T11:43:37.657" LastActivityDate="2018-08-02T11:43:37.657" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6535" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6536" CreationDate="2018-08-02T12:25:20.660" Score="8" ViewCount="9042" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am using RAMPS 1.4 with Marlin. With Marlin, you can control a large number of fans with the &lt;code&gt;M106 P&amp;lt;fan index&amp;gt;&lt;/code&gt; command. I'd like RAMPS to control some additional fans, independent of layer fan. Are there free pins on RAMPS 1.4 to do that? Otherwise, could I setup the RAMPS board to send a command to a separate Arduino? I also have Octoprint if that makes it easier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12506" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-01-16T13:00:22.413" LastActivityDate="2019-01-16T13:00:22.413" Title="Controlling more fans with RAMPS board" Tags="|marlin|ramps-1.4|octoprint|print-fan|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6536" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6535" CreationDate="2018-08-02T21:19:06.627" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;From the &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;sources of Marlin&lt;/a&gt; you can find how may fans you can use, even if you're not a coder it should be doable. From there you can find how to set the pins for the fans, provided that there are free unused and exposed (so that you do not have so solder directly to the microprocessor). First find how many fans are possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Starting in &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/blob/ed86550061ab94f10dd1d310c994bd74db582740/Marlin/Marlin_main.cpp&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Marlin_main.cpp&lt;/a&gt; and searching for &lt;code&gt;106&lt;/code&gt; (or &lt;code&gt;106&lt;/code&gt; on the Marlin GitHub website) will lead you to the sources of the execution of the &lt;code&gt;M106&lt;/code&gt; command. Below a snippet of &lt;code&gt;M106&lt;/code&gt; and &lt;code&gt;M107&lt;/code&gt; is shown. The reason for &lt;code&gt;M107&lt;/code&gt; to be there becomes clear later.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&#xA;#if FAN_COUNT &amp;gt; 0&#xA;&#xA;  /**&#xA;   * M106: Set Fan Speed&#xA;   *&#xA;   *  S&amp;lt;int&amp;gt;   Speed between 0-255&#xA;   *  P&amp;lt;index&amp;gt; Fan index, if more than one fan&#xA;   *&#xA;   * With EXTRA_FAN_SPEED enabled:&#xA;   *&#xA;   *  T&amp;lt;int&amp;gt;   Restore/Use/Set Temporary Speed:&#xA;   *           1     = Restore previous speed after T2&#xA;   *           2     = Use temporary speed set with T3-255&#xA;   *           3-255 = Set the speed for use with T2&#xA;   */&#xA;  inline void gcode_M106() {&#xA;    const uint8_t p = parser.byteval('P');&#xA;    if (p &amp;lt; FAN_COUNT) {&#xA;      #if ENABLED(EXTRA_FAN_SPEED)&#xA;        const int16_t t = parser.intval('T');&#xA;        if (t &amp;gt; 0) {&#xA;          switch (t) {&#xA;            case 1:&#xA;              fanSpeeds[p] = old_fanSpeeds[p];&#xA;              break;&#xA;            case 2:&#xA;              old_fanSpeeds[p] = fanSpeeds[p];&#xA;              fanSpeeds[p] = new_fanSpeeds[p];&#xA;              break;&#xA;            default:&#xA;              new_fanSpeeds[p] = MIN(t, 255);&#xA;              break;&#xA;          }&#xA;          return;&#xA;        }&#xA;      #endif // EXTRA_FAN_SPEED&#xA;      const uint16_t s = parser.ushortval('S', 255);&#xA;      fanSpeeds[p] = MIN(s, 255U);&#xA;    }&#xA;  }&#xA;&#xA;  /**&#xA;   * M107: Fan Off&#xA;   */&#xA;  inline void gcode_M107() {&#xA;    const uint16_t p = parser.ushortval('P');&#xA;    if (p &amp;lt; FAN_COUNT) fanSpeeds[p] = 0;&#xA;  }&#xA;&#xA;#endif // FAN_COUNT &amp;gt; 0&#xA;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looking at this code, the first thing (actually the first line, &lt;code&gt;#if FAN_COUNT &amp;gt; 0&lt;/code&gt;, already hints to that) that catches your attention is constant &lt;code&gt;FAN_COUNT&lt;/code&gt;. Apparently the software knows how much fans are defined! Interesting! How does it know that! This piece of code ends just after handling the &lt;code&gt;M107&lt;/code&gt; command (line &lt;code&gt;#endif // FAN_COUNT &amp;gt; 0&lt;/code&gt;), hence it is displayed here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Continuing the search by finding how &lt;code&gt;FAN_COUNT&lt;/code&gt; is set (using the search on GitHub for the Marlin repository) leads to file &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/blob/ed86550061ab94f10dd1d310c994bd74db582740/Marlin/Conditionals_post.h&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Conditionals_post.h&lt;/a&gt;. An interesting part is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&#xA;/**&#xA; * Up to 3 PWM fans&#xA; */&#xA;#if HAS_FAN2&#xA;  #define FAN_COUNT 3&#xA;#elif HAS_FAN1&#xA;  #define FAN_COUNT 2&#xA;#elif HAS_FAN0&#xA;  #define FAN_COUNT 1&#xA;#else&#xA;  #define FAN_COUNT 0&#xA;#endif&#xA;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So depending on &lt;code&gt;HAS_FANx&lt;/code&gt; (where x denotes 0, 1 or 2) you can have multiple fans, up to 3 in total! Cool, learned something in the process. :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's now search for &lt;code&gt;HAS_FANx&lt;/code&gt;; in the same file you will find:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&#xA;// Other fans&#xA;#define HAS_FAN0 (PIN_EXISTS(FAN))&#xA;#define HAS_FAN1 (PIN_EXISTS(FAN1) &amp;&amp; CONTROLLER_FAN_PIN != FAN1_PIN &amp;&amp; E0_AUTO_FAN_PIN != FAN1_PIN &amp;&amp; E1_AUTO_FAN_PIN != FAN1_PIN &amp;&amp; E2_AUTO_FAN_PIN != FAN1_PIN &amp;&amp; E3_AUTO_FAN_PIN != FAN1_PIN)&#xA;#define HAS_FAN2 (PIN_EXISTS(FAN2) &amp;&amp; CONTROLLER_FAN_PIN != FAN2_PIN &amp;&amp; E0_AUTO_FAN_PIN != FAN2_PIN &amp;&amp; E1_AUTO_FAN_PIN != FAN2_PIN &amp;&amp; E2_AUTO_FAN_PIN != FAN2_PIN &amp;&amp; E3_AUTO_FAN_PIN != FAN2_PIN)&#xA;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now we are getting into clear water! This codes hints to &lt;code&gt;FAN1_PIN&lt;/code&gt; and &lt;code&gt;FAN2_PIN&lt;/code&gt;. If you look into you pin layout file, e.g. &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/blob/1.1.x/Marlin/pins_RAMPS.h&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;pins_RAMPS.h&lt;/a&gt; you see that that are the pin constants that need to be defined, actually &lt;code&gt;FAN1_PIN&lt;/code&gt; is e.g. set if you choose an &quot;EFF&quot; configuration (Hotend, Fan0, Fan1), e.g. &lt;code&gt;#define FAN1_PIN  RAMPS_D8_PIN&lt;/code&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is left for you to do is find an unused pin of your micro-controller and set the &lt;code&gt;FAN2_PIN&lt;/code&gt; with &lt;code&gt;#define FAN2_PIN  &amp;lt;a free pin number&amp;gt;&lt;/code&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;E.g. pin 4 is not a used pin number (and an analog output pin). Don't forget that the pin you choose cannot directly run a fan, it should be used to schedule a MOSFET.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that a dual external fan header &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.geeetech.com/wiki/index.php/Reprap_Ramps1.4_RRD_Fan_Extender&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&quot;Reprap Ramps1.4 RRD Fan Extender&quot;&lt;/a&gt; exists, this describes using the D6 and D11 pins. Further investigation led to a 3D.SE posting using this fan header: &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/q/5220/5740&quot;&gt;&quot;How to configure Marlin to enable auto-fans with dual extruder&quot;&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-01-16T12:57:48.403" LastActivityDate="2019-01-16T12:57:48.403" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6537" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6528" CreationDate="2018-08-02T23:29:27.933" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can do lost-PLA investment casting, the actual gear to do it is kind of pricey unless you're willing to create your own DIY forge for melting aluminum.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check it out though, you don't need a special printer to do it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's also a way to coat your prints with metal it would require an electric current and some nasty chemicals, but it's possible as an alternative.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7412" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-09-10T07:00:38.957" LastActivityDate="2018-09-10T07:00:38.957" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6538" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="264" CreationDate="2018-08-03T13:59:08.123" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;As I read the history, 3&amp;nbsp;mm filament was an accident of the supply chain when 3D filament printers were first being developed by hobbyists.  There was a product called a &quot;plastic welder&quot; which consisted of a melting device and a source of filler material.  This filler was 3&amp;nbsp;mm plastic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As the techniques and equipment developed, the market for filament grew to a size where it could support companies producing filament specifically for 3D printing.  The benefits of 1.75&amp;nbsp;mm filament over 3&amp;nbsp;mm were, IMO, huge -- especially the easier melting and lower force needed by the extruder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Except for special purposes like pushing soft plastics through Bowden tubes, it seems from the marketplace that 1.75&amp;nbsp;mm filament as completely overtaken 3&amp;nbsp;mm filament.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A possible second-order disadvantage of 1.75&amp;nbsp;mm filament can be water absorption.  The surface-to-volume ratio is higher -- there is more surface per unit of the filament through which water vapor can be absorbed.  It is important to keep filament dry, and sometimes necessary with both 3&amp;nbsp;mm and 1.75&amp;nbsp;mm to dry the filament in an oven before use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2082" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-04-22T05:00:38.390" LastActivityDate="2019-04-22T05:00:38.390" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6539" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5882" CreationDate="2018-08-03T18:10:42.067" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Before worrying too much about the hydrophilic properties of PLA, it might be worthwhile to test a fitting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, print a fitting and see that the freshly made print is strong enough to carry the pressure of the water, and the compression force of hose clamp you may need to connect the stiff irrigation hose to the printed fitting. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second, soak the printed fitting in water for month or two, perhaps at an elevated temperature to match the higher ground temperature in the summer.  You could put the part in a closed mason jar and leave it in the sun.  You might add a little salt and fertilizer to the water to simulate ground conditions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After this aging process, you could test to see if it withstands the pressure of the domestic water system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might also measure the ground temperatures where you intend to use the fittings.  I find that PLA has no structural strength above about 150 degrees Fahrenheit (65 degrees Centigrade), and the inability to resist slow plastic may start at an even lower temperature.  [For example, I print structural PLA parts with negative clearances and then dip them in 160 degree F water to soften them.]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the printed fittings are strong enough but suffer from water absorption, I would either print them of ABS or coat them with an ABS coating.  To make the coating, dissolve ABS in acetone until it is the consistency of thick cream, dip your fitting in the mixture, and allow them to dry.  It will take longer than you think it should to dry, and the solution will take more ABS plastic than you might expect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;ABS is not generally considered to be &quot;food safe&quot;, but this isn't a potable water system.  The FDA lists ABS as conditionally food safe, and I would be comfortable using it to irrigate my lawn and vegetables.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2082" LastActivityDate="2018-08-03T18:10:42.067" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6540" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6524" CreationDate="2018-08-03T18:44:25.220" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I own the Ender 3, and it runs on 24V, as this photo of the power supply shows:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3VrGx.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3VrGx.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Ender3 Power supply&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From power supply  to the board, it uses a 2-wire line connected with a XT60 plug/jack that is common on RC cars:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uXc5B.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uXc5B.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;XT60 connector on Ender3&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The board itself is a proprietary design and labeled as &amp;quot;V1.1.2&amp;quot;. The Voltage in is the lowest input on the left:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xQBpB.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xQBpB.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Creality3D V1.1.2&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Cooling fan (blue-yellow wire), the hotend cooling fan, heater cartridge (white shielded), bed heater (left black-red), board cooling fan (middle red-black) run (in this setup) on 24V. The Logic connectors (black-black &amp;amp; White-white) run 5V logic. I could not figure out the voltage of the stepper motors (upper row).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have not figured out how the power management circut works, but it achieves this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Supply voltage &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$ U_S = 12\ \text V \lor 24\ \text V $&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Logic Voltage &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$ U_L = 5\ \text V $&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sensor Voltage &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$ U_{sens} = U_L$&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hotend Cooling Fan &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$ U_{cool} = U_S$&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hotend Heating Cartridge &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$ U_{hot} = U_S $&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Heatbed &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$ U_{bed} = U_S $&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The chip's caption can't be read on the photo, but it is labeled as &amp;quot;Δ ATMEL // ATMEGA1284P // AU 1726&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the pinout, a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.chaos-drucker.de/anleitungen-und-tutorials/creality-ender3-mit-marlin-ausstatten/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;german maker&lt;/a&gt; did determine, that it the configuration of a &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/Lauszus/Sanguino&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Sanguino&lt;/a&gt; equipped with an Atmega1284P 16Bit works for compiling firmware and flashing via a bootloader.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2022-05-08T19:14:05.373" LastActivityDate="2022-05-08T19:14:05.373" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6541" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6542" CreationDate="2018-08-03T19:42:13.433" Score="8" ViewCount="5031" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been having a problem with stringing on my 3D printer, so initially I &lt;strong&gt;increased retraction distance from 6.5&amp;nbsp;mm to 8&amp;nbsp;mm.&lt;/strong&gt; Then I tried again, with the same issue, so I &lt;strong&gt;increased retraction speed and lowered the extruder temperature.&lt;/strong&gt; Same problem. Over and over. After I did each of these, I have since &lt;strong&gt;decreased move speed, increased minimum layer time, put fan on full blast&lt;/strong&gt;, and nothing has seemed to increase print quality. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I realize this is a lot of alterations to be making, but I'm not sure what to do next. I am using 1.75&amp;nbsp;mm PLA and a Monoprice Select V2.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12525" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-12-10T06:21:46.047" LastActivityDate="2019-12-24T07:00:47.303" Title="How to eliminate stringing and regulate flow rate?" Tags="|pla|monoprice-maker-select|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6542" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6541" CreationDate="2018-08-03T19:57:33.763" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Stringing can be fought by increasing the retraction length, but 6.5 mm (the default in Ultimaker Cura) is already pretty much. Please do note that too much retraction can lead to sucking air into the nozzle, which can lead to air pockets/holes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically there are 3 mechanisms that are in play:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Retraction&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Temperature&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Speed&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You have tried changing multiple parameters already. You may have better luck in reducing the temperature of the nozzle even further, start with a decrease of 5 &amp;deg;C. All that is left to do is increasing the travel speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are many &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/search?q=stringing&amp;amp;dwh=65b64b59ba5f5d&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;stringing test prints&lt;/a&gt; to print to fine tune stringing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-08-03T20:34:11.320" LastActivityDate="2018-08-03T20:34:11.320" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6543" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6528" CreationDate="2018-08-03T20:03:33.680" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Printing metal&lt;/strong&gt; (directly) is done in mainly two types:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Laser Sintering (LS), where a metal compound or alloy is sintered into form. For example, Tungsten Carbide is Laser Sintered. Common shorthands are SLS, DMLS, and SMLS, but others crop up too.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Laser Melting, where the laser actually smelts the metal into spot. DMLS/DMLM (direct metal laser (s)melting) and SLM (Selective Laser Melting) are currently the top of the development.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a side market of a special setup that welds objects, making the whole item a single weld, but that is (strictly speaking) not printing, it is welding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What bars the availability of OpenSource machines: &lt;a href=&quot;https://patents.google.com/patent/US7794647B1/en&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Patents&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;https://patents.google.com/patent/EP1700686A2&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;more patents&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;https://patents.google.com/patent/WO2013090174A1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;even more patents&lt;/a&gt; are still running, and some of these patents contain parts essential to metal printing, so they are barred. Only a few key patents for Laser Smelting/Laser Sintering/Laser Melting like &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/patents/US5597589?dq=US5597589&amp;amp;hl=de&amp;amp;sa=X&amp;amp;ei=qB3pUqaQC4rI4AS544C4DA&amp;amp;ved=0CDgQ6AEwAA&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this one&lt;/a&gt; did expire at all up to now. Some of the nowadays relevant patents for METAL printing like &lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://patents.google.com/patent/US6676892&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; (exp: ~2019-2024), &lt;a href=&quot;https://patents.google.com/patent/US20170182598&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; (exp:~2037) or &lt;a href=&quot;https://patents.google.com/patent/EP2893994A1/en&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this new one&lt;/a&gt; (exp: ~2035) still have years to go, so it will take some time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another factor is market: There is only a small market for hobbyists demanding metal printers while the industrial demand is large, and the industry is willing to pay big money. So there is little pressure on the big ones to make small machines, while the open source groups need to develop ways that get the right results without breaking patents.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A more complete history of metal laser printing (and a little more help which patents actually are relevant for industry) can be found &lt;a href=&quot;https://designandmotion.net/design-2/manufacturing-design/dmls-a-little-history/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2018-09-10T14:46:39.067" LastActivityDate="2018-09-10T14:46:39.067" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6545" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6260" CreationDate="2018-08-04T09:06:46.163" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Due to the advice from @0scar i formulate my answer in the comments as a proper answer ;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check the nozzle, if it is in shape and good condition.&#xA;I scratched my nozzle over the metal heat bed by accident...it becomes nasty... and produced inconsistent line widths. Since the metal of most nozzles is brass it is easy to machine...and easy to deform. And since you will need several nozzles over time get some new ones and try with them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also not every new nozzle will be perfect, so defect products happen, especially if they are cheap and have really tight measurements.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9575" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-08-04T15:14:38.887" LastActivityDate="2018-08-04T15:14:38.887" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6546" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6548" CreationDate="2018-08-04T10:56:57.320" Score="6" ViewCount="200" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know very little about the history of 3D printing, except that SLA came first (in the 1980's?), and FDM development was probably held back by patents.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By 2016, very low price kit machines were available to hobbyists, in the &amp;lt;€300 price range, as price-reduced clones of designs which had already seen several iterations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Was this the start of the break-out of cheap FDM machines (as opposed to the &gt;€2000 semi-professional lab budget prototyping class), or were the earlier iterations of these kit machines also suitable/adopted by hobbyists?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I realise that early popularity would grow exponentially, but I'm thinking particularly at what point people could build a printer without needing to compile their own firmware, solder any boards, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4927" LastEditorUserId="4927" LastEditDate="2018-08-04T12:28:01.600" LastActivityDate="2018-10-17T17:39:59.447" Title="When did mass produced FDM printers become available?" Tags="|history|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6548" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6546" CreationDate="2018-08-04T12:07:07.120" Score="7" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By 2016, very low price kit machines were available to hobbyists [..]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Was this the start of the break-out of cheap FDM machines&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No, not by any means. The &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/RepRap_project&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;RepRap project&lt;/a&gt; started in 2005, and by 2008-2010 there were several open-source printer designs out there that were somewhat workable for hobbyists. These designs were still quite expensive, you needed to source all the components yourself and do a very significant amount of troubleshooting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, as early as mid-2009 you could buy a &lt;a href=&quot;https://gizmodo.com/5286457/makerbot-cupcake-cnc-delivers-diy-3d-printing-for-just-750/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Makerbot Cupcake CNC&lt;/a&gt; for \$750 as a kit (which might have involved some soldering) or \$2500 fully assembled (presumably without soldering, but it's conceivable it was plug-and-play). Makerbot went on to become quite a successful company, piggybacking off the RepRap project and could be viewed as the &amp;quot;break-out&amp;quot; you ask about.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I purchased my first printer kit (no soldering or firmware involved) for \$500 (plus around \$150 in shipping and taxes) in February 2014; cheap hobbyist machines were commonplace well before that. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:29:41.667" LastActivityDate="2018-10-15T05:55:59.747" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6549" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2018-08-04T16:53:44.093" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;3D printing built on a long tradition of subtractive machining, starting in the early 1980's with the first SLA machines. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4927" LastEditorUserId="4927" LastEditDate="2018-08-04T22:57:32.153" LastActivityDate="2018-08-04T22:57:32.153" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6550" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2018-08-04T16:53:44.093" Score="0" Body="For questions about the development and history of the process and technology behind 3D printing. To fit with the Q&amp;A format, questions should be about a specific aspect of the history, and not broad or open-ended." OwnerUserId="4927" LastEditorUserId="4927" LastEditDate="2018-08-04T22:57:27.860" LastActivityDate="2018-08-04T22:57:27.860" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6551" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1404" CreationDate="2018-08-04T19:12:38.993" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Keep in mind gas ovens produce water when the gas is burned, so it isn't as effective as an electric oven for drying.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Silica desiccant is excellent for drying filament, but you will want at least some of the desiccant beads to be &quot;indicating&quot; type.  That is they show a color change when saturated with moisture.  Silica desiccant can be recharged in a 220 &amp;deg;F (104 &amp;deg;C) oven, and can withstand a higher temperature than the filament, and it expels water when warm even though a lot is present in a gas oven.  Indicating silica is typically blue or orange dry, pink or green when wet.  If you have white silica beads with just a small percentage of indicating beads in it, they will equalize in moisture so the indicating beads can be trusted to indicate for the whole batch.  Non-indicating silica is cheaper and can be spiked with a small dose of indicating beads.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I use an x-large (~5 gallon) double zipper ziploc &quot;big bag&quot; with my entire supply of filament inside, along with a cloth bag holding 2.5 pounds of indicating silica beads.  Even if the ziploc seal isn't perfect, the silica will maintain a low humidity until spent.  It is rated to reduce humidity to 40 % and hold 40 % by weight in water (not the 10 % mentioned above, past 40 % water and the humidity will rise past 40 %), but in my 46 % rh (relative humidity) house, my filament bag dropped to 15 % rh within 20 minutes (measured with a HVAC humidity meter).  The 2.5 pounds (1.1 kg) of silica can absorb 1 pound of water (0.45 kg).  You can weigh your silica to get an indication of how much water is in it.  I stored my filament in a vacuum chamber for a week while I waited for my order of desiccant to arrive, so the filament was quite dry before I filled the bag.  The vacuum chamber is not practical for storage as you have to evacuate it every time you open it, and it doesn't hold much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12540" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-08-04T19:51:28.940" LastActivityDate="2018-08-04T19:51:28.940" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6553" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1404" CreationDate="2018-08-04T21:07:45.880" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have turned unusable PLA into filament that printed well by putting it in a dry oven for a couple of hours.  I've used 90 degrees C (194 degrees F), which may be too hot as it distorts round filament to be flat sided as the filament softens and relieves stresses.  It printed well.  Perhaps 70 degrees C (158 degrees F) would less deform the filament.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Today I have a large plastic bin with rolls of filament and three color-changing rechargeable drying cartridges.  As soon as they look other than absolutely dry, I plug them in to recharge.  It may be insufficient for PETG and Nylon -- I don't yet have much experience.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2082" LastActivityDate="2018-08-04T21:07:45.880" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6554" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6556" CreationDate="2018-08-05T00:21:28.250" Score="4" ViewCount="3803" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm printing PLA with the Creality Ender 2 and my print comes out totally fine with the exception of the first layer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's the weird part though, if I place a raft or a brim below/around the print - the raft or brim will print perfectly cleanly. Even on a raft though, the very first layer of the actual print comes out ugly, as seen in the photo below, but the raft itself will be perfectly printed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Following that first ugly layer of the actual print, the rest of the print will be 100% clean. This happens consistently every time I print any object.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The perfectly printed raft can be seen on the right and the ugly first layer that printed on top of that raft can be seen on the left. Be sure to click the image to see the details of what I mean.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/z1Kem.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Ugly first layer and raft&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/z1Kem.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Ugly first layer and raft&quot; title=&quot;Ugly first layer and raft&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12542" LastEditorUserId="4927" LastEditDate="2018-09-04T08:26:35.220" LastActivityDate="2018-09-04T08:26:35.220" Title="First layer of print comes out poorly even when placed on a raft (which prints fine)" Tags="|print-quality|fdm|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6555" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6554" CreationDate="2018-08-05T05:33:51.037" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sounds like you need to get the printing nozzle closer to the bed. In the case of the raft you can adjust the 'air gap' which is how much it raises off the top of the raft before starting the print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11097" LastActivityDate="2018-08-05T05:33:51.037" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6556" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6554" CreationDate="2018-08-05T06:25:28.733" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Turns out it had to do with the nature of the small holes that I was printing. I had to slow the speed of the initial layer down from 25mm/s to 15mm/s and also set Cura to 'optimize wall printing order' so that it didn't jump back and forth between holes constantly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also sped up the travel speed to 50mm/s on the initial layer to minimize oozing (although I'm not sure this actually did anything). Print came out beautifully.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Didn't even need the raft.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12542" LastActivityDate="2018-08-05T06:25:28.733" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6557" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-08-05T14:49:14.740" Score="4" ViewCount="357" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been seeing the 330 m and 110 m length estimates for 1.75 and 3.0 mm spools (of PLA, presumably). But a moment's thought staring at that will raise an obvious question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using πr², we get the area of the filament in square millimeters (rounding to two decimal points)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For 1.75 it's 2.41 mm²&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For 3.00 it's 7.07 mm²&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then taking the ratio and multiplying:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(2.41/7.07) * 330 m = 112 m which is close enough to 110 m.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;BUT as all makers of filament and makers of extruders know, 3.00 mm is just a rounding off of the real dimension, which is 2.85 mm. Now do that:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For 2.85 it's 6.38 mm²&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(2.41/6.38) * 330 m = 125 m which is at least 120 m.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, whoever calculated the approximation of 110 m did the calculation based on the rounded rather than actual dimension. What am I missing here?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My point is not that the 330 and 110 would be inaccurate given the dimensions of 1.75 and 3.00. Rather, my point is that the 3.00 mm diameter is not what is really so; it's actually 2.85 mm and therefore the answer is longer than 110 m.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12449" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2018-09-18T15:35:56.117" LastActivityDate="2018-09-18T15:35:56.117" Title="Is the 110 m length accurate for 3.0 mm 1 kg spool?" Tags="|filament|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6558" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-08-05T15:32:58.167" Score="9" ViewCount="5042" Body="&lt;p&gt;It would be helpful to me if I knew in advance how much the &lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;empty&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt; filament spool weighs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not having emptied any spool yet, I can't contribute data points, but has anyone compiled a list of empty weights from various manufacturers and sizes?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am asking the question because when I open a fresh spool I am curious how close it is to 'what it says on the tin'. And to find out how much I got on a &amp;quot;transitional&amp;quot; or &amp;quot;imperfect&amp;quot; spool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12449" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2024-03-17T22:58:09.280" LastActivityDate="2024-03-19T18:21:03.693" Title="Is there a table or list of tare weights of empty spools of various manufacturers?" Tags="|filament|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6559" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6557" CreationDate="2018-08-05T15:37:19.760" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Let's go about this scientific:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;$A_r=\pi{r}^{2}=\pi{\frac{d}{2}}^{2}$&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a result the crossections are $A_{3}=7.06858\text{mm}^2=0.0707\text{cm}^2$, $A_{2.85}=6.3794\text{mm}^2=0.0638\text{cm}^2$ and $A_{1.75}=2.40528\text{mm}^2=0.024\text{cm}^2$.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Volume of a cylinder is $V_{A_d,l}=\times {A_d} {l}$. Turned around to get a length from Volume and Area we get $l=\frac {V_m}{A_d}$, but what is V?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We know the density of comercial PLA is about $\rho=1.25 \frac{\text g}{\text{cm}^3}$, and we know $m=\times V \rho$. So: $V_m=\frac{m}{\rho}=\frac{1000}{1.25}\text{cm}^3=800\text{cm}^3$.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Taking this Volume and using the $l=\frac {V_m}{A_d}$ we get:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;$l_{d=1.75}=33333.33\frac{\text{cm}}{\text{kg}}=333.33\frac{\text{m}}{\text{kg}}$&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;$l_{d=2.85}=12539.18\frac{\text{cm}}{\text{kg}}=125.39\frac{\text{m}}{\text{kg}}$&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;$l_{d=3}=11315.41\frac{\text{cm}}{\text{kg}}=113.15\frac{\text{m}}{\text{kg}}$&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the filament is more on the dense side $(\rho&amp;gt;1.25\frac{\text g}{\text{cm}^3})$, then it will have a smaller volume and thus be shorter than this estimate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To show this better, a graph: This is the length of a filament spool in dependancy of the density. The values were calculated for the usual diameters with their closest neighbors rounded to 0.1 as absolute diameters and run over a broad range of densities commonly used in plastics - 0.7 g/cm³ to 2 g/cm³.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Jydly.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Jydly.png&quot; alt=&quot;length of filament depending on diameter and density&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2018-09-14T10:17:44.147" LastActivityDate="2018-09-14T10:17:44.147" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6560" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6558" CreationDate="2018-08-05T16:01:41.777" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, there is a table on &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/comments/4hlwse/empty_spool_weights_for_estimating_remaining/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Reddit - Empty spool weights for estimating remaining filament&lt;/a&gt; which suggests that the norm (in 2015) was between 170 and 330 grams for a 1&amp;nbsp;kg spool, superficially in a bimodal distribution clustered around the high and low points. Presumably these were for 3&amp;nbsp;mm filament, this post dating to before the popularity of 1.75&amp;nbsp;mm...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Manufacturer's have an incentive to reduce the mass of their spools, or even ship without spools, since the shipping cost will eat into their profit margin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4927" LastEditorUserId="4927" LastEditDate="2018-08-07T14:45:23.540" LastActivityDate="2018-08-07T14:45:23.540" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6561" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-08-05T17:22:36.007" Score="4" ViewCount="2603" Body="&lt;p&gt;I see plans for various spool holders, either for PLA in the open, or for whatever filament in a dry box, that use 608 bearings. Elsewhere, I see warnings not to oil your filament to make it go through the extruder better, because problems going through mean something else is wrong, and it's better to fix the other thing. So, if I use the 608's, will oil leak on the filament, and is this bad?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12449" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2018-08-18T09:26:23.280" LastActivityDate="2018-08-18T09:26:23.280" Title="But ... skateboard bearings have OIL in them, and oil is ... bad?" Tags="|filament|printer-peripheral|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6562" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6561" CreationDate="2018-08-05T18:05:46.580" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Typically, oiling a filament would mean to use a vegetable based or non-petroleum type of lubricant, possibly even PTFE (teflon) or silicone. Those materials will not damage PLA filament. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Oiling filament is not the haphazard application of lubricant, however. One drop on the filament sponge guide will last a rather long time and should be given sufficient time to distribute itself in the sponge, helping it along by alternately squeezing and releasing the sponge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ball bearings of the type you've described will not have oil, unless otherwise modified by the user/owner. The bearings are packed with grease which will not leak out under normal circumstances. Running the bearings at high speed will cause the grease to thin a bit and perhaps drip or if hot enough will &quot;sludge up.&quot; If your bearing grease turns to sludge, the bearing has already gotten hot enough to melt out of your plastic fitting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For spool holder applications, you can clean the grease from the bearing with a suitable solvent (denatured alcohol, acetone, soap and hot water in a pinch) and expect little impact on the drag. The spools rotate at such slow speeds and under such small load that the bearings alone will work nearly forever. This recommendation is void in dusty environments.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With respect to oiling the filament, it's not a bad idea to have a sponge dust catcher that has no oil just as the filament enters the last open location. My bowden extruder system is nearly enclosed and the sponge sits at the very edge of the spool, while a direct extrusion system would have the sponge at the entry to the extruder gears.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastActivityDate="2018-08-05T18:05:46.580" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6563" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2972" CreationDate="2018-08-05T20:01:31.513" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In addition to the &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/2974/5740&quot;&gt;answer&lt;/a&gt; of &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/98/tbm0115&quot;&gt;tbm0115&lt;/a&gt;; special care has to be given to the strength and stiffness of the model. Lines are thinner and thus when using the same amount of walls and infill percentage, the walls will be less stiff. This requires a higher percentage of infill or more walls to counteract this phenomenon. Obviously, this will cause the print to take longer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2018-08-05T20:01:31.513" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6564" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4120" CreationDate="2018-08-05T21:11:36.923" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;While I haven't used PVA yet, think of it this way, it may be 4x the cost but you use significantly less material for support structures even if you have a lot of support.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12547" LastEditorUserId="12547" LastEditDate="2018-08-07T07:29:06.173" LastActivityDate="2018-08-07T07:29:06.173" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6565" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6561" CreationDate="2018-08-06T01:00:53.707" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sounds like an instance of bad advice without any real basis in reality.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Oil is not bad, and generally only bearings specifically being sold for use with skateboards will be oiled.  I don't mean all 608 bearings, but rather 608 bearings intended for/marketed to skaters to use with their boards as opposed to general purpose 608 bearings.  You can tell if a bearing is oiled vs. packed with grease by spinning it.  A greased bearing will stop almost immediately due to the viscosity of the grease.  An oiled bearing will spin under its own momentum for a while after you spin it.  But, regardless, grease or oil, the chance that it will contaminate filament in any appreciable way is very small.  The skin oil on your fingers that gets deposited every time you load the filament is way more significant than accidental bearing leakage, and either way, it doesn't matter. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The advice about not oiling your filament is, well, bad advice.  Or perhaps it was simply misunderstood.  There is &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;nothing&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; wrong with oiling filament if done properly, and every little thing you can do to make the filament extrude with that much less resistance is a good thing.  And it is certainly not 'bad' to oil filament, as no matter what, it is going to improve the situation.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What that advice is trying to say is that if the extruder is having problems extruding, then oiling the filament is not really a solution.  It is never actually necessary to oil filament, and it is not something you should rely on to fix a problem, but rather something that can increase performance.  So yes, don't try to make a non-working extruder working by oiling filament.  That doesn't mean oiling it is bad, or you shouldn't do it, just remember that at best, it can only hide a problem, but it won't fix it.  &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Despite what the other answer to this question says, &lt;strong&gt;you cannot 'oil' filament with PTFE lubricant, or any other lubricant that is not actually oil, and the purpose is most definitely &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; to lubricate the filament&lt;/strong&gt;.  You also do not need to do it constantly, just once in the while.  And it is only useful in all-metal hotends.  Hotends where a PTFE tube all the way past the heat break will not be hurt by oiling, but it won't get much benefit either.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So what is the point of oiling if it isn't to lubricate the filament?  Well, when certain types of oil (vegetable oil, shortening, canola oil, etc) is heated for a long time at a temperature of 190°C or higher, the fatty acids oxidize and reorganize, or more accurately, &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;polymerize&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; into a new plastic-like layer of molecules.  This polymer layer acts as an extremely slick coating that is almost as slippery as a teflon coating.  Regardless, it is much lower fiction than bare aluminum or stainless steel - having this coating inside your hotend will lower the drag on the filament that much more, which is always a good thing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If something about this sounds familiar, you probably already know about it under a different name - &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;seasoning.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;  You know, that thing people often do to cast iron cookware.  Only, it isn't actually specific to cast iron - it works just as well with aluminum or stainless steel.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Repeated exposure to hot oil continues to build on this coating, making it more slippery and durable. The polymer coating actually bonds to the metal.  And you aren't lubricating anything, that is not the point, you do not need to constantly oil filament.  You can lower the extrusion resistance in all metal hot ends by oiling during the first few prints, then oiling a print every once in a while to build up the coating again (which will slowly wear away over time), but it isn't something you really need or should do all the time.  And using too much oil during a print can weaken the print's final strength because any excess oil will mix in with the PLA (or whatever it is you're printing with).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One final thing - if you do wish to season your hotend, canola oil anecdotally seems to work the best.  Using PTFE lubricant will do nothing, and again, the point of oiling filament is to season the hotend, not to actually act as a lubricant.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The important take away here though, is you don't need to worry about any of this.  Just use bearings, don't worry too much about keeping filament clean, just have something to clear off dust and other detritus that might be large enough to clog the nozzle.  If you needed to be so vigilant as to worry about oil or grease from bearings, we'd all be using rubber gloves to even touch our filament.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10295" LastEditorUserId="10295" LastEditDate="2018-08-06T01:07:37.353" LastActivityDate="2018-08-06T01:07:37.353" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6566" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5968" CreationDate="2018-08-06T06:56:32.290" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I used a different heat break with a PFTE lining inside. After that it ran smoothly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Probably what was happening was that my filament was getting too hot and started to stick on the full metal heat break. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8283" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-10-11T11:43:18.783" LastActivityDate="2018-10-11T11:43:18.783" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6568" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6557" CreationDate="2018-08-06T08:46:16.590" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The 110 meter figure is for 3.0 mm filament that actually is 3.0 mm in diameter. As you (correctly) note, most 3.0 mm filament is often actually closer to 2.85 mm. In that case, the correct figure is indeed around 125 meters. Note that this figure is for PLA filament (see e.g. &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/1452&quot;&gt;my answer here&lt;/a&gt;). For ABS, being significantly less dense, a 1 kg spool would be around 155 meters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastActivityDate="2018-08-06T08:46:16.590" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6569" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-08-06T17:37:08.527" Score="8" ViewCount="17579" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am new to the 3D printing world and I would appreciate if someone can give me advice on how to 3D print moving parts without them sticking together. I recently 3D printed the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2917515&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;predator pliers from Thingiverse&lt;/a&gt; and it came out very nice except for the fact that the parts where stuck together and I could not move any of the pieces. I had to use an Exacto knife to loosen the parts and in doing so my predator pliers broke and I was very sad. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The printer and the settings that I use are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;PowerSpec WanHao Duplicator I3 PLUS 3D Printer &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Ultimaker Cura 3.4.1&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Black PLA Plastic 1.75&amp;nbsp;mm&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;0.4&amp;nbsp;mm nozzle&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;60&amp;nbsp;°C Bed Temp&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;200&amp;nbsp;°C Extruder Temp&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;20 fill  (usually-sometimes more)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Layer height 0.15&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;UPDATE:&#xA;I printed a PIP from thingiverse and it worked out    perfectly. All the parts move. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12555" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2018-09-16T12:37:10.253" LastActivityDate="2018-09-16T12:37:10.253" Title="How to make moving parts not stick together?" Tags="|print-quality|wanhao|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6570" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6569" CreationDate="2018-08-06T18:39:19.520" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;If parts stick together after printing, the positioning or extrusion is not working optimally.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This can be related to various issues:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Positioning of the head is not correct; this could be related to incorrect belt tension, incorrect steps per mm, streched belts.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The extrusion process is not working optimal; this could be related to over-extruding (incorrect steps per mm for the extruder, incorrect multiplier in the slicer, filament too hot) or the first layer height is incorrect (too low, so the lines spread out and tough each other). Extruder calibration is explained in more detail in &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/6484/5740&quot;&gt;this answer&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A very good start to verify what exactly your tolerance problem is is to print &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2318105&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;this tolerance test&lt;/a&gt;. Basically, these are diabolic shaped objects in a slightly larger outer shape object. Please slice &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/download:3694107&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;this STL file&lt;/a&gt; with your favorite slicer to obtain the G-code for your printer. When the print is ready, you use a screwdriver to turn the diabolic shaped objects from large to small tolerance, the last one that does not turn is the maximum tolerance of your printer. So when printing in place hinges, you should use tolerance values higher than the one that did not turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-08-06T21:10:51.777" LastActivityDate="2018-08-06T21:10:51.777" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6571" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3442" CreationDate="2018-08-06T20:05:10.770" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It appears as though you are using (or used) an old version of Cura. More recent releases allow you to insert G-code commands on changing the extruder. You could insert a Z-hop in these sections. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Extruder End G-code&lt;/strong&gt;: First set the extruder in a relative mode, move up 2 mm, set absolute again:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;G91&#xA;G1 Z2&#xA;G90&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Extruder Start G-code&lt;/strong&gt;: First set the extruder in a relative mode, move down 2 mm, set absolute again:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;G91&#xA;G1 Z-2&#xA;G90&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could even do filament retractions to prevent oozing or stringing!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Note that this assumes both hotends are on the same carriage!&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TqkUo.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TqkUo.png&quot; alt=&quot;Cura printer extruder start and end code sections&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An alternative you could try is to use a print server that is able to inject G-code scripts, an example is OctoPrint:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Tgzn4.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Tgzn4.png&quot; alt=&quot;OctoPrint tool change start and end code sections&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-08-06T20:15:14.533" LastActivityDate="2018-08-06T20:15:14.533" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6572" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6582" CreationDate="2018-08-06T20:53:31.277" Score="7" ViewCount="17446" Body="&lt;p&gt;I purchased a glass bed to use with my still-in-transit Ender 3. Since the bed came in before the printer, I pulled it out and used a flat edge ruler to see how flat the glass surface is. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It appears the glass is slightly &quot;dished&quot; in the center from one side and &quot;raised&quot; in the center on the other side. I am wondering if this is a sign of a defective glass, or if it is likely that the glass may change shape slightly as it is heated?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it does change shape, should it be put with the dish side up or down? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Logic would say that if it does change shape, the bottom would probably get hotter since it is against the heater while the top is slightly cooler, so in theory the bottom may expand more &quot;pulling&quot; the center down?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I guess the bottom line is, should I send the glass back as defective or wait until the printer arrives and see what happens when I heat it up?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12559" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2019-11-06T14:10:02.623" LastActivityDate="2019-11-06T22:18:46.720" Title="Will a glass bed warp as it is heated?" Tags="|heated-bed|bed-leveling|glass-bed|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6573" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5969" CreationDate="2018-08-06T22:23:30.340" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Following on from Toon's answer, here is a run down of &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCb8Rde3uRL1ohROUVg46h1A&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Thomas Sanladerer&lt;/a&gt;'s excellent&#xA; video: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Mbn1ckR86Z8&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;3D printing guides: Calibration and why you might be doing it wrong&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;However, this may not be a definitive answer to the actual question about warts and bumps...&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Mbn1ckR86Z8&amp;amp;t=8&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;0:08 - A step back&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Back in time - when the RepRap project (and the hobby grade 3D printing market) was new territory - it was seen to be a &lt;em&gt;doable&lt;/em&gt; technology, with no restrictions imposed by patents. The new printers created and developed included Darwin, Sells Mendel and Prusa Mendel. These often produced unusable parts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, impromptu solutions, or kludges led to poor quality fixes giving poor quality prints, by today's standards. However, people (today) believe that because they worked back then,. that they must still be valid solutions today. However this is not necessarily the case. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The common misconception is that it is necessary to calibrate the esteps per mm for all axes other than extruder - adjusting the x, y and z esteps per mm until the 10&amp;nbsp;mm cube measures exactly 10x10x10&amp;nbsp;mm, even if that means squeezing the callipers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Mbn1ckR86Z8&amp;amp;t=85&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;1:25 - Car analogy&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;You find that your car pulls to the left, when going in a straight&#xA;  line, so you adjust the steering. However, then in hard corners and&#xA;  the rain the car handles poorly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Upon closer inspection, it then turns out that the car had a flat&#xA;  tyre. You wouldn't compensate for having a flat tyre by adjusting the&#xA;  steering, now would you?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In order to get that 10 mm cube precise, it is usual to calibrate for the filament diameter, and extrusion multiplier (most straightforward option), but some printers aren't even that precise in the first place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mechanical, ripple, slaw, blacklash, can throw you off by 0.1 mm.  Compensation for this 0.1 mm is certainly possible and achievable. However, then for a larger print, say 100&amp;nbsp;mm, then these &lt;em&gt;overcompensation&lt;/em&gt; will become more evident, and you will be one entire milimeter off the desired dimensions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, use the ideal calculated esteps per mm. Timing belts and threaded rods are made to tight tolerances. therefore the worst case of ideal step per mm setting is an inaccuracy of 0.5%.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, to find the ideal calculated steps use &lt;a href=&quot;http://prusaprinters.org/calculator/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Prusa's calculator&lt;/a&gt; which is very good indeed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are not using belts, or very large printer, then it is worth recalibrating the steps per mm for x and y, as 0.5%  will make a noticeable difference in larger parts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Use the files and instructions for these &lt;strong&gt;Calibration sticks&lt;/strong&gt; on &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youmagine.com/designs/calibration-sticks&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Youmagine&lt;/a&gt;, for proper recalibrating without results slewed by the extrusion multiplier being off by a bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Mbn1ckR86Z8&amp;amp;t=225&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;3:45 - So what do I need to do?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What do you need to empirically calibrate your printer?  In actual fact, not all that much:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;extruder steps per mm setting&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;extrusion multiplier (see video link - &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YUPfBJz3I6Y&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Extruder calibration&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;print speed, jerk and acceleration settings - These depend upon how much quality you want to sacrifice for increased speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pro-tip: &lt;em&gt;slow your printing down&lt;/em&gt;. For example, try printing at half speed. Quality &lt;em&gt;may&lt;/em&gt; be improved, and even if it isn't you will be able to observe more clearly what is happening, and going wrong.&#xA;(see video link - &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7HsIZuj9vOs&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Super Fast Guide:Tuning Speeds&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Mbn1ckR86Z8&amp;amp;t=270&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;4:30 - Other than that?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is not much else needs calibrating, per se.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With regards to slicer software, there are only a certain range of settings make sense, but this isn't printer calibration. You simply learn the slicer software and, with familiarity, see how far you can go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These days any well maintained and well built and solid printer will produce good prints.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most slicers give you decent prints without tweaking or calibrating, other than the basic settings about your printer and deciding how the part should be printed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What about print temp and retract settings? Well, just use the default settings, or settings which depend upon the type of filament.  So, no calibration is required there, as it is a property of the filament.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Mbn1ckR86Z8&amp;amp;t=324&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;5:24 - Summing up&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't try to calibrate everything&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The technology, in particular the software, i.e. slicers, is still developing and improving. Slic3r's prototpye beta (in Nov 2014) has added compensation for fitting errors(?) without messing other things up, which is essentially what the cube calibration tries to do, but in the correct way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4762" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-08-07T08:02:45.440" LastActivityDate="2018-08-07T08:02:45.440" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6574" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6580" CreationDate="2018-08-07T03:32:37.460" Score="5" ViewCount="3891" Body="&lt;p&gt;Let's say I'm modeling a simple open-top rectangular box to slice via Cura for printing. Normally I would set up a solid box of the size I want in the modeler, and then subtract a slightly smaller box to create the final result.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is it possible to get the same results with Cura by instead only modeling the simpler solid box if set my wall lines and thickness for the base and sides, set the infill to 0&amp;nbsp;%, and then set the &lt;em&gt;Top Layers&lt;/em&gt; to 0 and/or &lt;em&gt;Top Thickness&lt;/em&gt; to 0&amp;nbsp;mm? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How might that change the resulting print? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How will that impact the total height of the print?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12562" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-08-07T11:44:36.697" LastActivityDate="2020-08-13T17:04:47.273" Title="Can I use a 0 mm top layer thickness in Ultimaker Cura to create an open box?" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6576" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-08-07T04:52:21.640" Score="30" ViewCount="63584" Body="&lt;p&gt;Let's say I'm modeling a simple box with a lid. Just as an example, we'll say the &lt;strong&gt;outer&lt;/strong&gt; edge along the top of the box is 50 mm x 50 mm. With 3D modeling software, it's easy to build a lid for this box to surround the top with an &lt;strong&gt;inner&lt;/strong&gt; edge size of also exactly 50 mm x 50 mm ...but this seems like a bad idea. Surely I'll want some kind of of gap, to ensure an easy on/off. An &lt;em&gt;exact&lt;/em&gt; fit seems like it's asking for trouble.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How much gap do we leave for this kind of thing?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is it related to nozzle size?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I suppose it also matters how tightly you want to fit, though I expect in cases where a tight fit matters some kind of snap or clip would be used.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Are draft prints with larger layer sizes useful for figuring this, or do the rough layers make things seem tighter than they'll be in a final print?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12562" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2022-10-29T15:11:44.173" LastActivityDate="2023-09-11T13:27:31.533" Title="What kinds of gaps/tolerances should I use when designing pieces that fit together?" Tags="|3d-models|" AnswerCount="9" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6577" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6579" CreationDate="2018-08-07T05:51:29.623" Score="4" ViewCount="99" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been watching this video &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Mbn1ckR86Z8&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;3D printing guides: Calibration and why you might be doing it wrong&lt;/a&gt; and at the start (at &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Mbn1ckR86Z8&amp;amp;t=30&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;0:30&lt;/a&gt;) three of the first Reprap printers are mentioned (and shown): &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Darwin;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Prusa Mendel, and;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;what sounds to be &quot;Cells&quot;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a screenshot:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/D2DaA.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;RepRap Cells&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/D2DaA.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;RepRap Cells&quot; title=&quot;RepRap Cells&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;which, to me, looks like a Mendel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, after having looked at:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;RepRapWiki - &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/RepRap_project&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;RepRap project&lt;/a&gt;, and;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;All3DP - &lt;a href=&quot;https://all3dp.com/history-of-the-reprap-project/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;The Official History of the RepRap Project&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;... I can not see the &quot;Cells&quot; printer listed or mentioned. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Am I hearing it correctly?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or is it &quot;Sells&quot;, in reference to Edward Sells, one of the four authors of &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.cambridge.org/core/journals/robotica/article/reprap-the-replicating-rapid-prototyper/5979FD7B0C066CBCE43EEAD869E871AA&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;RepRap – the replicating rapid prototyper&lt;/a&gt;? However, this paper only mentions/shows the Darwin and Mendel printers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4762" LastActivityDate="2019-02-20T05:44:23.370" Title="What printer is this?" Tags="|reprap|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6578" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6576" CreationDate="2018-08-07T06:05:40.827" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Short version:&lt;/strong&gt; basically, this depends on your printer, make, model, type, state of maintenance, extruder, slicer settings, belt tension, play, friction, etc.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Long version:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt; Basically your printer determines how accurate it prints; you can influence the accuracy a little by calibrating and fine tuning the printer. What regularly is done is to print &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1278865&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;calibration cubes&lt;/a&gt; of fixed size. Before you do that, you should read &amp;quot;&lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6483/how-do-i-calibrate-the-extruder-of-my-printer&quot;&gt;How do I calibrate the extruder of my printer?&lt;/a&gt;&amp;quot;; this explains to calibrate the extruder. With a fine tuned extruder you could print those XYZ calibration cubes, or in your case create a box of e.g. 50 x 50 x 15 mm. When you measure the length and the width with a caliper, you will know how much the tolerances are for this print size. Eventually, you could change this by re-adjusting the steps per mm in the firmware of the printer, but this is not always a recommendation (as your steps per mm should be related to the mechanical layout of the used mechanism, e.g. the belt size and pitch in combination with the pulley and the stepper resolution).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please also look into the answer of &amp;quot;&lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/6570/5740&quot;&gt;How to make moving parts not stick together?&lt;/a&gt;&amp;quot;; this answer hints to printing a tolerance calibration model that uses diabolic shapes set apart from the outer object by several values for the offset between the pieces. When you print this you can find out what sort of tolerance works for you. Please do note that the tolerances on smaller parts may be different than the tolerances on larger parts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The answer on your question thus depends on your 3D printing machine, but usually the tolerance values range in the few tenths of a millimeter. To enable a lid on top of a box like in your example, you need to keep the tolerance in mind when designing the lid. Usually an extra few tenths of a millimeter will do the trick, but if you make some test prints first you will know exactly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To answer the question what the influence is of layer height on tolerance, I &lt;a href=&quot;https://mattshub.com/2017/04/19/extruder-calibration/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;quote&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Load a 25 mm cube into your slicer and set the infill to 0%,&#xA;perimeters to 1, and top solid layers to 0. You’ll also want to print&#xA;it at a fine resolution – I chose 0.15 mm and it actualy did make a&#xA;small (0.02 mm) difference in the wall thickness as opposed to 0.3 mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So yes the layer height has an effect, it is very little though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An interesting read is &amp;quot;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.matterhackers.com/articles/a-guide-to-understanding-the-tolerances-of-your-3d-printer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;A Guide to Understanding the Tolerances of Your 3D Printer&lt;/a&gt;&amp;quot; from &amp;quot;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.matterhackers.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;matterhackers&lt;/a&gt;&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Furthermore, when you have calibrated the printer but still run into small deviations, is that most slicers will allow you to compensate for X and Y dimensions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2022-09-21T13:54:48.140" LastActivityDate="2022-09-21T13:54:48.140" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6579" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6577" CreationDate="2018-08-07T06:06:08.003" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, it is a &quot;Sells Mendel&quot; in reference to Edward Sells. As noted on the &lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/wiki/Mendel&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;RepRap wiki&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Ed Sells, a student of Dr. Adrian Bowyer, designed and built the first Mendel printer, sometimes called a &quot;Sells Mendel&quot; to distinguish the original design from later tweaks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastActivityDate="2018-08-07T06:06:08.003" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6580" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6574" CreationDate="2018-08-07T06:18:55.277" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes that will work in Ultimaker Cura exactly as you say.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So if you have a solid model of a cube, you select wall thickness, bottom thickness, 0 % infill, and no top layers or top layer size of 0 mm. You will then end up with a box without a top layer, but with walls reaching up to the height of your model.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2018-08-07T06:18:55.277" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6582" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6572" CreationDate="2018-08-07T06:58:33.543" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Glass will not change its shape you can watch this interesting video: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0j9fa86jiv0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;YouTube - Fix Your Bowed Glass Build Surface - CR-10 3D Printer &lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or simply change your glass. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12398" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-08-23T16:58:28.387" LastActivityDate="2018-08-23T16:58:28.387" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6586" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6588" CreationDate="2018-08-07T14:58:32.433" Score="4" ViewCount="2491" Body="&lt;p&gt;Recently, I have heard people talking about masterspool, when talking about 3D printing filament.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What &lt;em&gt;exactly&lt;/em&gt; is master spool?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Where did the idea come from and when?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is it being widely adopted? Or to be specific, how many distributors/manufacturers have adopted this already, and is it gaining traction?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strike&gt;Is this something that I should get excited by?&lt;/strike&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strike&gt;If so, why is it such a good idea?&lt;/strike&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4762" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-08-07T16:39:26.093" LastActivityDate="2018-08-07T16:39:26.093" Title="What is a masterspool?" Tags="|filament|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6587" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6558" CreationDate="2018-08-07T15:06:26.990" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Following on from &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6558/is-there-a-table-or-list-of-tare-weights-of-empty-spools-of-various-manufacturer/6560#6560&quot;&gt;Sean's excellent answer&lt;/a&gt;, here is the (out of date) table in question:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Image: &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9Mdi0.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Empty spool weight table&quot;&gt;Empty spool weight table&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In table format:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;div class=&quot;s-table-container&quot;&gt;&lt;table class=&quot;s-table&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;thead&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;th&gt;Brand&lt;/th&gt;&#xA;&lt;th&gt;Size&lt;/th&gt;&#xA;&lt;th&gt;Year&lt;/th&gt;&#xA;&lt;th&gt;Color&lt;/th&gt;&#xA;&lt;th&gt;Width (mm)&lt;/th&gt;&#xA;&lt;th&gt;Diameter (inner/core/outer)&lt;/th&gt;&#xA;&lt;th&gt;weight&lt;/th&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;/thead&gt;&#xA;&lt;tbody&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;3D Solutech&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;1kg&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;2015.0&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Black&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;65.0&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;57/81/199&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;~173g&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;3D Supply Source Transparent PLA/PETG&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;1kg&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;2015.0&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Black&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;65.0&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;57 / 81/ 199&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;~173g&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Atomic Filament&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;1kg&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;2015.0&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Black&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;72.0&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;52 / 98 / 204&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;~319g&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Atomic Filament&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;1kg&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;2016.0&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Black&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;74.0&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;52 / ? / 201&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;?&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Colorfabb&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;750g+&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;2015.0&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Clear&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;57.0&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;53/105/200&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;~236g&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;eSun Inland&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;1kg&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;2015.0&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Black&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;67.0&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;53 / ? / 199&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;~224g&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;eSun Intservo PLA/ABS&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;1kg&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;2015.0&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Clear&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;64.0&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;52 / 90 / 200&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;~253g&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;HanBot&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;1kg&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;2014.0&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Black&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;78.0&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;40 / ? / 198&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;?&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Hatchbox ABS&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;1kg&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;2015.0&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Black&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;62.0&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;32 / 58 / 200&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;~226g&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Hatchbox ABS&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;1lb&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;2015.0&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Black&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;61.0&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;32 / 58 / 163&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;~157g&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Honeycomb Drone&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;1kb&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;2015.0&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Clear&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;53.0&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;52 / 60 / 220&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;~183&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;IC3D ABS&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;2.5lbs&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;2014.0&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Black&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;74.0&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;52 / ? / 203&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;?&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Invent-a-Part PLA&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;1kg&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;2014.0&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Black&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;74.0&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;57 / 96 / 198&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;~227g&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;JustPLA Chroma Line PLA&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;1kg&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;2015.0&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Black&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;93.0&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;57 / 95 / 180&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;~197g&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;MadeSolid PET+&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;1lb&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;2014.0&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Black&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;55.0&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;52 / ? / 199&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;?&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;MadeSolid PET+&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;1kg&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;2014.0&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Black&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;71.0&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;53 / 93 / 203&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;~345g&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;MakerGeeks Brand PLA&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;1kg&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;2015.0&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Black&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;83.0&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;38 / ? / 190&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;?&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;MicroCenter Inland&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;1kg&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;2016.0&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Black&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;65.0&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;?/90/?&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;~224g&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;MonoPrice PLA&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;1kg&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;2015.0&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Black&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;78.0&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;39 / 96 / 194&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;~221g&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;NinjaFlex&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;500g&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;2014.0&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Black&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;54.0&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;52 / 94 / 200&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;~329g&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Octave ABS&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;1kg&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;2012.0&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Black&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;90.0&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;32 / 58 / 161&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;~168g&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Prototype Supply&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;1kg&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;2014.0&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Black&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;69.0&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;53 / ? / 199&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;?&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Reprapper ABS&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;1kg&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;2012.0&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Black&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;90.0&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;32 / 58 / 161&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;~157g&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Sainsmart TPU&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;800g&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;2015.0&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Black&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;65.0&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;57 / 81? / 199&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;~173g&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Sainsmart TPU&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;800g&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;2015.0&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;White&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;84.0&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;32 / 49 / 162&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;~153g&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;SMW3D&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;1kg&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;2015.0&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Black&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;78.0&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;32 / ? / 200&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;?&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Taulman Nylon / TGlase&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;1lb&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;2014.0&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Black&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;70.0&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;19 / 51 / 127&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;~90g&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Taulman PLA&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;1kg&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;2015.0&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Black&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;84.0&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;38 / ? / 190&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;?&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Ultimachine PLA&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;1kg&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;2012.0&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Black&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;71.0&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;53 / 93? / 203&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;~345g&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Up! ABS&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;700g&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;2013.0&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Black&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;55.0&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;53 / ? / 198&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;?&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;XYD Filament&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;1kg&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;2015.0&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Black&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;67.0&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;53 / ? / 198&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;?&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Yasin&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;1kg&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;2015.0&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Black&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;60.0&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;48 / ? / 199&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;?&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Zen Toolworks Flexible&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;1kg&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;2014.0&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Black&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;60.0&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;52 / ? / 198&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;?&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tbody&gt;&#xA;&lt;/table&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Source: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/comments/4hlwse/empty_spool_weights_for_estimating_remaining/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Reddit - Empty spool weights for estimating remaining filament&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Table created using Github:&lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/greenonline&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;greenonline&lt;/a&gt;/&lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/greenonline/HTMLTableToMarkdown&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;HTMLTableToMarkdown&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4762" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2024-03-19T18:21:03.693" LastActivityDate="2024-03-19T18:21:03.693" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6588" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6586" CreationDate="2018-08-07T15:35:05.453" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;A masterspool is the practice of printing your own spool out of filament, which will then be used to support your filament you purchase without a spool attached. The main idea is to create a reusable spool and create less waste. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(&lt;em&gt;NOTE: I'm in no way affiliated with MatterHackers.com, nor am I an endorser of their products.&lt;/em&gt; There is also a version which &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.villageplastics.com/the-filament-koil/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Village Plastics&lt;/a&gt; has created.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.matterhackers.com/articles/tech-breakdown-the-master-spool&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;MatterHackers.com&lt;/a&gt; website, they state:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Filament without a spool? Why are we making this? The short answer: because the community wants it. We had enough questions, comments and plenty of tweets asking if we had plans to pick up the Master Spool concept. Seeing the response and interest within the community made it clear to us: we needed to bring this idea to the States. With a joint effort between MatterHackers and Village Plastics, you can now purchase Master Spool refills from within the US.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They are tying to apply the &lt;em&gt;Reduce, Reuse, Recycle&lt;/em&gt; mantra to create a cleaner environment for the rest of the world. While they are not the first to create or use a printable spool, they are pretty happy to be pressing forward with the idea of having a reusable spool and selling filament without a spool attached.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;MatterHackers go on to state:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;What are the benefits of the Master Spool? Not only is there the  benefit of reducing plastic waste, using a Master Spool will also reduces shipping costs for new spools, and limits the clutter from amassing of a huge collection of used or empty spools. Rather than throwing away, trying to recycle dozens of spools, or trying to come up with a way to reuse them in some (like the Spool Tool), using the Master Spool means you can use all those filament scraps you have laying around on something useful and have one spool for all of your filament.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as where it started, it appears to have originated with &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1738730&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this print on Thiniverse&lt;/a&gt; created by &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/Dingoboy71/about&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Dingoboy71&lt;/a&gt;. A well known 3D printer named &lt;em&gt;RichRap&lt;/em&gt; created the reusable spool which MatterHacker promotes, though they say there are several which will work with their product (Village Plastic says pretty much the same). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you get excited about saving the planet, then you should be excited about this. If you are a robust printer, going through tons (hopefully not literally) of filament per year, this method will save a lot of waste in the long run.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Realize there are (as of this writ) only limited suppliers of spool-less filament, though I think the trend for this type of product will increase in the future as the idea catches on. I guess time will tell. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11242" LastEditorUserId="11242" LastEditDate="2018-08-07T16:23:36.987" LastActivityDate="2018-08-07T16:23:36.987" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6589" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6586" CreationDate="2018-08-07T16:00:51.870" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;One key difference between a 'masterspool' and any old spare empty reel you have left over is that the masterspool is a 2-part design which can be fitted over an existing roll of filament without needing to un-spool and re-spool the whole roll.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The idea being that filament can be packaged and secured for shipment (with cable ties or the like) without needing to include a whole spool every time. The end user can buy/print only as many spools as they need.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This concept also allows for 'extra' features to be included in the spool (such as retention for loose ends) without these features being wasted on every discarded spool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4927" LastActivityDate="2018-08-07T16:00:51.870" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6590" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4120" CreationDate="2018-08-07T20:21:32.927" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I haven't tried this myself, but the recommended way I've seen for dealing with the high cost of PVA is to print the support structure in ABS, PLA, or something else cheap, and print only the interface area (the top of the support where it meets the model) in PVA.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="48" LastActivityDate="2018-08-07T20:21:32.927" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6591" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5145" CreationDate="2018-08-07T22:17:52.883" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I fixed this issue a while back but I realised others might see this. I’m not exactly sure what fixed it though. I was meddling with the ee-prom when suddenly it started working again. I suspect somehow a different steps per mm value was stored on the ee-prom so no matter what I did to change it (in the firmware) it made no difference. Then I either changed the settings in the ee-prom or disable it. I can’t really remember.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When it started working it looked like nothing was extruding because 5% extrude rate really is very low!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8989" LastActivityDate="2018-08-07T22:17:52.883" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6592" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-08-08T00:30:24.733" Score="8" ViewCount="2518" Body="&lt;p&gt;Let's say you're printing a container or some other object with no infill. What's a good rule of thumb for how thick to make the outside? I'm looking for something along the lines of millimeters thick per square inch of area.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm thinking about PLA right now, but answers for ABS and other materials are welcome, too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12562" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-08-08T07:07:19.993" LastActivityDate="2018-08-11T21:04:17.957" Title="How to determine shell thickness for parts?" Tags="|3d-models|print-strength|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6593" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6592" CreationDate="2018-08-08T03:39:51.270" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I make small objects (25mm^2) with 1 to 1.5 mm walls and larger objects (think coffee cups)  with about 2.5 - 3 mm walls.  I set the line width and number of perimeters to completely fill the thickness. &#xA;I use this for ABS and PLA.&#xA;The PLA objects have been electronics enclosures,  with internal structures to support the parts.   They aren't subjected to strong forces.   I've made small containers for stain gauges with the amplifiers,  and larger ones for greater sequences and Arduino boxes. &#xA;I've used ABS also for coffee mugs and beverage glasses,  to withstand the mass and temperature of drinks. &#xA;It can take some fussing to worry the Slic3r slicing parameters into place.  Especially with mugs the design is for function and appearance,  not for effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2082" LastEditorUserId="4927" LastEditDate="2018-08-11T21:04:17.957" LastActivityDate="2018-08-11T21:04:17.957" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6594" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6592" CreationDate="2018-08-08T06:53:37.917" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;This totally depends on what you think is acceptable for your print, and what the usage of the print is: is it a structural/functional part or just for aesthetic purposes. There is no general rule of thumb for that. Basically this is a design issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it has to be stiff and may not flex much you would require to use more walls to give it more rigidity. Less if it is not that important.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When using infill and depending of the part, 0.8 to 1.2 mm walls are frequently used for nozzle sizes of 0.4 mm, without infill you could use the same values, but need to take less rigidity for granted. Add more walls when you need it to be more rigid. Note that the larger the wall surface area becomes (height over width), the easier a wall can buckle under load; increase the wall count to counteract.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In your case (design of a container) I would consider what the purpose of the container is; e.g. how big is it, how much weight is it going to contain (e.g. heavy nuts and bolts, or left over filament pieces), is it stackable, etc. etc. etc.. As a final thought, note that you can play with the design as well, a straight box/container is less stiff than a box with some curved edges or stiffeners. An example of a stackable container is e.g. &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:647425&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AFTuB.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AFTuB.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Stackable container&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The indents on the walls of this container give it more rigidity, these walls are in the range of 2 to 3 perimeters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-08-08T11:46:27.837" LastActivityDate="2018-08-08T11:46:27.837" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6595" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6592" CreationDate="2018-08-08T08:05:39.327" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;As alluded to in 0scar's answer, it is important to stick to multiples of your nozzle width for thin shells. If you try to print a 1mm wall with a 0.4mm nozzle, you give the slicer a bit of a challenge in filling the joint between the two outer faces. Maybe it can print a half-width line, by under extruding, maybe not - but a 0.8mm wall is likely to be stronger.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So long as the slicer has more than 3 nozzle widths to play with, it is able to add diagonal fill to build up a solid form (as hinted in this comment on github for cura)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The answer to the question depends completely on the rigidity required. A single (vase) wall can work, particularly for a curved object - but you might find that a stronger lip is required. Although 2 or 3 perimeters will flex, they may be strong enough for your application. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Above this, you may be better off with a 2-sided wall. 2 perimeters each side with a 1mm gap (and a bit of infill) is comparable to a 6 perimeter solid wall due to the increased overall thickness and the compression/extension multiplication. I rarely go above 3 perimeters - if I need extra strength, I resort to punching holes like the slots in &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2566782&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this part&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zINop.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zINop.png&quot; alt=&quot;5mm rigid part&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4927" LastEditorUserId="4927" LastEditDate="2018-08-08T13:55:57.707" LastActivityDate="2018-08-08T13:55:57.707" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6597" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4448" CreationDate="2018-08-08T15:13:07.710" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Converted comment on OP to answer:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The comment links to a &lt;a href=&quot;https://blender.stackexchange.com/questions/7503/scale-settings-for-exporting-to-stl-for-3d-printing&quot;&gt;question&lt;/a&gt; on SE.Blender; the answer that led to the solution is quoted below.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The STL exporter doesn't take Scene Scale into account. Import your&#xA;  STL back into Blender (it will have the same size) and drag Scene&#xA;  Scale up back to 1.0, and you'll see how the cube grows relative to&#xA;  the grid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;1 Blender unit equals 1m, but STL seems to assume 1 unit as 1cm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If you want 1 unit to be 1mm, set Scale on STL export to 0.1 and &#xA;  Scene Scale to 0.001 to make it match the output scale in viewport.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Note that the STL will be 10x smaller if you re-import it into&#xA;  Blender!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2018-08-08T15:13:07.710" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2018-08-08T15:13:07.710" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6598" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6151" CreationDate="2018-08-08T15:30:29.177" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I change the stepper driver and that helped.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of the stepper driver was faulty.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11055" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2023-08-11T08:41:55.973" LastActivityDate="2023-08-11T08:41:55.973" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6599" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6576" CreationDate="2018-08-08T16:23:11.807" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, some clearance is necessary. Even if you were machining perfect metal parts, you would want a clearance gap (and make an allowance for mis-alignment along the Z axis too, long joints can bind quite easily).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition to this, you need to make a small allowance for the walls bulging slightly under the extrusion pressure (layer height being less than the nozzle diameter).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other factors to take into account are layer-change ooze (which often makes a small seam appear), and ripple effects resulting from acceleration. This means that even once you have tested the gap that a specific model requires on your printer, you can't rely on the same gap working perfectly when you design another model. If you require rotational symmetry in your fit, it will be harder to get a good tight joint to be reliable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sometimes a print-in-place design can give you a similar effect to a clip together design, but permitting a more positive retention&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4927" LastActivityDate="2018-08-08T16:23:11.807" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6600" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-08-08T16:36:46.010" Score="3" ViewCount="5530" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a printer with a 0.1 mm typical layer thickness. Of course I can choose some different sizes in Cura or other slicing software, but most prints on this machine will be 0.1 mm. In my (admittedly limited) experience thus far, the 0.1 mm seems typical for other printers, too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to get a sense of just how thick this is. I know about the paper trick for leveling the print bed, but my understanding is the first layer pushes into the bed a little, meaning it's less than 0.1 mm and so paper isn't a good example for the typical layer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a similar item with close to 0.1 mm thickness I can use to visualize this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12562" LastEditorUserId="12562" LastEditDate="2023-11-07T14:41:20.147" LastActivityDate="2023-11-07T14:41:20.147" Title="How thick is 0.1 mm?" Tags="|layer-height|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6601" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6600" CreationDate="2018-08-08T17:38:53.593" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sure. Get a 0.1mm thick feeler gauge. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://duckduckgo.com/?q=feeler+gauge+.1mm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://duckduckgo.com/?q=feeler+gauge+.1mm&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4922" LastActivityDate="2018-08-08T17:38:53.593" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6602" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6621" CreationDate="2018-08-08T18:04:20.210" Score="8" ViewCount="432" Body="&lt;p&gt;Looking in the Cura interface, I can set any whole number 0-100 for the infill percentage. Does Cura have an algorithm to calculate a pattern for any of those possible values, or does it have a few patterns where it selects the closest one?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12562" LastActivityDate="2018-08-10T11:33:54.210" Title="Does Cura have an algorithm for any infill percentage or does it just have specific patterns?" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|infill|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6604" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6600" CreationDate="2018-08-08T18:24:04.840" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure exactly what you mean by your comment to Davo's answer, but with respect to your use of a sheet of paper reference, it seems like you can still use &lt;em&gt;80 gsm&lt;/em&gt; paper as a reference for 0.1&amp;nbsp;mm layers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.printware.co.uk/Blog/311/Paper-Sizes-Explained.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Paper Sizes Explained&lt;/a&gt; (emphasis is mine):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;There is no universal calculation for the thickness of paper based on the gsm as varitaions in paper composition can affect the weight, so two different brands of 120gsm paper could have slightly different thicknesses. However, &lt;strong&gt;an average sheet of 80gsm paper, the most commonly used weight, measures approximately 0.1mm in thickness&lt;/strong&gt;, which means that &lt;em&gt;10 sheets would measure 1mm&lt;/em&gt;. By comparison, &lt;em&gt;10 sheets of 120gsm paper would be 1.5mm thick&lt;/em&gt;, assuming the paper composition was the same.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, given that:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;80&amp;nbsp;gsm =&gt; 0.1&amp;nbsp;mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;120&amp;nbsp;gsm =&gt; 0.15&amp;nbsp;mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;40&amp;nbsp;gsm =&gt; 0.05&amp;nbsp;mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;60&amp;nbsp;gsm =&gt; 0.075&amp;nbsp;mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.officexpress.co.uk/paper-guide/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;A Guide to Paper Types and Sizes&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Paper Weight Descriptions&#xA;&#xA;Weight        Feels Similar to:&#xA;&#xA;35-55 gsm     Most newspapers&#xA;90 gsm        Mid-market magazine inner pages&#xA;130-250 gsm   A good quality promotional poster&#xA;180-250 gsm   Mid-market magazine cover&#xA;350 gsm       Most reasonable quality business cards&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, it would appear that you could use a newspaper sheet (or two) to test for layers of less than 0.1&amp;nbsp;mm.  Obviously this would depend upon where in the world you are, and the (physical) quality of your newspapers. Here in the UK, or rather Europe, the &lt;em&gt;exported version&lt;/em&gt; of the Guardian used to be printed on some extremely lightweight paper (almost transparent tissue thin), in order to keep the costs of transport down to a minimum. So a folded sheet of that would certainly be in the range of 0.75 - 0.99&amp;nbsp;mm (which seems to be the range that you are looking for). However, given that the printed media (as opposed to the online version) is currently in decline, I am not entirely sure if it is still available.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or, how about grease proof paper? From the &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Greaseproof_paper&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Wikipedia entry&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Basis weights are usually 30–50 g/m²&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although, this paper has been processed (&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Supercalendered&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;supercalandered&lt;/a&gt;) and treated with starch, which will increase the density, so the thickness will not correlate to the table above (i.e. it will be thinner).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Giftwrap paper (not the really thick stuff) could be another option.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After having doing some long winded googling, I guess that the best bet would be to get hold of a micrometer and measure whatever paper yourself, as the specifications of paper are generally given in &lt;code&gt;gsm&lt;/code&gt; and not &lt;code&gt;mm&lt;/code&gt; (which is a bit annoying), and so it is somewhat difficult to provide you with a definitive answer (without physically measuring it).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4762" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-08-10T11:54:43.723" LastActivityDate="2018-08-10T11:54:43.723" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6605" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5882" CreationDate="2018-08-08T20:31:50.283" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;PLA will biodegrade over time.  ABS would last longer, and stand up to higher temps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1397" LastActivityDate="2018-08-08T20:31:50.283" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6606" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6609" CreationDate="2018-08-08T20:32:58.603" Score="1" ViewCount="118" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've just bought &lt;strong&gt;Anycubic i3 Mega&lt;/strong&gt; printer and trying to level it.&#xA;So far I've printed test object and 2 others but looks like there are problems with leveling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to make image of 5 small one layer squares(one in each corner and one in center). Looking for recommendations of &lt;strong&gt;simple&lt;/strong&gt; software/tutorials/approaches to do it. I tried zbrush but found that it kind of complicated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12587" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2018-08-09T14:52:27.360" LastActivityDate="2018-08-09T18:56:56.643" Title="Recommend simple software to create calibration print for table leveling" Tags="|3d-models|software|calibration|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2018-08-18T11:56:52.150" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6607" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6572" CreationDate="2018-08-08T21:22:36.553" Score="8" Body="&lt;h3&gt;TL;DR&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, glass warps when hot. Use a physical touch sensor and calibrate it out, or swap glass if it's &amp;quot;bad&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The further you go into mechanical studies like 3d printing, mills, and lathes, you will find out that nothing is perfectly flat. Everything has a tolerance to it, whether the manufacturer provided it or not. Better manufacturers provide the tolerance data.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you have or will find out, &lt;em&gt;yes&lt;/em&gt;, glass does warp when heated. That is because you are not warming the glass evenly. When hot and cold spots form in glass, the glass tends to warp up or down, depending how the heat travels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's common for 0.01 mm warp when a glass bed is brought to printing temps (60-100 °C). If one has a larger format bed, like my Vulcanus at 500x500, 0.03 mm changes are possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One can remediate this warping, as it usually appears in the same place during the heat cycle. So if you calibrate &lt;strong&gt;after the bed is heated&lt;/strong&gt;, you should reduce said errors. Another more comprehensive way to fix this, is with a physical touch sensor and create a grid map of the bed geometry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8827" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:29:41.667" LastActivityDate="2019-11-06T21:33:09.130" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6608" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-08-08T22:35:58.943" Score="5" ViewCount="1114" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to tackle an experiment with the following goal:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Determine the correlations between printing parameters (temperatures,&#xA;  speeds, humidity, perimeters, infill, etc.) and tensile strength using&#xA;  a specific 3D printer, test specimen, and filament brand/model.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This goal calls for two parts then: a standardized &lt;strong&gt;test procedure&lt;/strong&gt; and &lt;strong&gt;test specimen&lt;/strong&gt;. For the test procedure, I've been asking myself:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;What portable, measurable and roughly consistent tensile strength test&#xA;  does not require building a complicated machine, can be performed with&#xA;  ready-made tools or machines available at a large hardware store, and&#xA;  can be set up within 5 minutes?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am thinking here about a procedure that lies somewhere between this &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/CZX8eHC7fws?t=136&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;hanging scale test&lt;/a&gt; and ISO 527. Definitely not using &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/R7gpW6aCz0o?t=116&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;bare hands&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/bmgSojocJ3c?t=388&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;pliers&lt;/a&gt;. Once the procedure is defined, this begs the question:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Is the ISO 3167 multipurpose test specimen an appropriate specimen for&#xA;  the test procedure outlined above or are there other specimens that&#xA;  are more suitable?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was thinking that, since the usual filaments have an ultimate strength of around &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.simplify3d.com/support/materials-guide/properties-table/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;40-60 MPa&lt;/a&gt;, perhaps the &quot;recoil&quot; would be too much and one needs to use a smaller, weaker specimen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10684" LastActivityDate="2020-12-08T00:04:20.347" Title="DIY tensile strength testing" Tags="|print-strength|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6609" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6606" CreationDate="2018-08-09T04:50:30.777" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;You are probably looking for something like &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2479352&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://cdn.thingiverse.com/renders/0f/68/62/46/9f/646e9a4ee9ff75a7f0cacb396a0b7ed4_preview_featured.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;leveling print object&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note this is for large beds (300 x 300 mm), so you would have to X, Y scale this in your slicer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a simple part that is very easily generated with &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.openscad.org&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;OpenSCAD&lt;/a&gt; 3D design software (very good modeller if you are familiar with software coding), but could easily been designed in any &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_3D_modeling_software&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;other tool&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another leveling and centering print that is created with OpenSCAD is &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2280529&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt;, and could be a start for you to create your own design:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mH73a.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mH73a.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;leveling and centering print object&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that the file with the design is located in the &quot;files&quot; section.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit&lt;/strong&gt;:&#xA;Some code for OpenSCAD made within 5 minutes (I don't type fast so it could have been faster if I did not use the constants, but if you go OpenSCAD, making parametric designs is almost a must ;) ):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;// Set constants as you like&#xA;width = 30;&#xA;depth = 30;&#xA;layer_height = 0.2;&#xA;first_layer_height = 0.2;&#xA;nr_of_layers = 2;&#xA;box_size = 180;&#xA;&#xA;// Calculated parameters&#xA;height = first_layer_height + (nr_of_layers - 1) * layer_height;&#xA;&#xA;// Draw the test object&#xA;translate([-width/2, -depth/2,0]){&#xA;  // Draw the center square&#xA;  cube(size = [width, depth, height], center = false);&#xA;  // Draw the corner squares&#xA;  for (x=[-1:2:1]){&#xA;    for (y=[-1:2:1]){&#xA;      translate([x * (box_size-width)/2, y * (box_size-depth)/2, 0])&#xA;        cube(size = [width, depth, height], center = false);&#xA;    } &#xA;  } &#xA;}&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rendered figure:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bVNru.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bVNru.png&quot; alt=&quot;rendered image of the 5 square level test print&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-08-09T18:56:56.643" LastActivityDate="2018-08-09T18:56:56.643" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6610" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6608" CreationDate="2018-08-09T06:07:50.283" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;For these kind of tests you could rely on the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.astm.org/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;ASTM&lt;/a&gt; standards. They define test procedures and test specimen sizes for different types of tests. Or you can derive a specimen yourself based on these standards (e.g. for my bachelor's degree I used an alternative notch impact specimen as I was bound to the amount of available material of the turbine rotor blade the specimens were taken from). Considering the material, you could device up a contraption made from extrusion profiles or something.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please do note that to get reasonable results, you would have to do a lot of tests as the spread in results is probably even more than in metals. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The company I work for does this, these material qualification programmes run for long times (years, as we also do fatigue and creep testing), and a lot of samples are tested to qualify for use in Aerospace applications.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-08-09T13:24:10.113" LastActivityDate="2018-08-09T13:24:10.113" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6611" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6606" CreationDate="2018-08-09T07:49:15.263" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;One of the most accessible modelling tools has to be &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.tinkercad.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;tinkercad&lt;/a&gt;. Everything is done in the browser, and it even works (to an extent) on a tablet. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wouldn't recommend getting too attached to it, since it is fairly limited. As an introduction to modeling in 3D, and some of the spatial concepts that you will need to get used to, it works very well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4927" LastActivityDate="2018-08-09T07:49:15.263" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6612" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6602" CreationDate="2018-08-09T09:42:01.293" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;From what I can see, the only way to change the pattern is the manual way.&#xA;There is still an open gate to create a plugin that could select the pattern - but that is rather a complex solution - unless you will have a fully automated pipeline&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9730" LastActivityDate="2018-08-09T09:42:01.293" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6613" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6602" CreationDate="2018-08-09T11:12:28.737" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is a option for the infill pattern. It is one of the MAAAAANY by default hidden options in Cura. On the Header of the cathegories there will appear a gear symbol while hovering over the header. By klicking it a window will show up and provides this many options to be shown in the settings, if they were checked. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9575" LastActivityDate="2018-08-09T11:12:28.737" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6614" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4576" CreationDate="2018-08-09T13:11:49.197" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As you told in a comment, you are using an FDM printer. Now... here's the problem:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;FDM can't do details this small with a standard nozzle. I do print occasionally an item that has a 0.2 mm circular depression in its wall. To show, I need to print with a 0.2 nozzle. So take note: smaller nozzle = smaller achieveable details. As a rule of thumb, the nozzle diameter is the smallest visible detail in XY and 2 layer thicknesses in Z. Remember, that some intricate details can become SUPER fragile.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next up is print time: The smaller the nozzle, the longer the print, as you need more movements to follow the now more complex outline and to achieve the same density of interior, more (but thinner) interior walls too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, FDM has two limitations:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Nozzle size is limited downwards, limiting the achieveable details.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Print time is the great unequalizer, as halving the nozzle diameter usually results in more than double the print time.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But fret not, there is a way out: Go even tinyer! Stereolothography and other resind based systems (DLP/SLA) are more time efficient when it comes to details and can manage even smaller details. Under some conditions (very fine powder and precise laser) SLS and DLSM might achieve the size, but nylon based prints don'T work under water while metal prints might not serve the purpose really.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In either case, &lt;strong&gt;your print file needs to have the details you wants to print&lt;/strong&gt;: it makes no difference if your 3D scan does not include the pores what system you use - information not included can't be printed. Check your Slicer if the model has the surface you want.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2018-08-13T21:49:28.770" LastActivityDate="2018-08-13T21:49:28.770" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6615" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6602" CreationDate="2018-08-09T14:08:49.690" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I fear I'm going to deny your question.  The infil percentage and the infil pattern are two orthogonal properties, both of which contribute to the strength, density, mass, and print time of an object.   Since there's no way for an algo to &quot;know&quot; what your desired outcome is, this can't be done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note - I used 'orthogonal' in the Hilbert sense, meaning neither property is a function of the other.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2191" LastActivityDate="2018-08-09T14:08:49.690" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6616" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6021" CreationDate="2018-08-09T16:48:13.040" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think the command you're looking for is &quot;Thicken&quot;. Recent versions of Fusion360 have moved this around, but now it should appear under the Create Panel when you're in the the Model mode (see the image below for details). A detailed description and short screencast on the Autodesk website &lt;a href=&quot;http://help.autodesk.com/view/fusion360/ENU/?guid=GUID-C316084F-04DC-4AAC-9AB6-1894A48B970F&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/o9cAq.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/o9cAq.png&quot; alt=&quot;Thicken tool in Autodesk Fusion360&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="102" LastActivityDate="2018-08-09T16:48:13.040" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6617" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6600" CreationDate="2018-08-09T17:56:44.370" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Maybe a better way to visualise 0.1mm is to explain that it only becomes really visible on a shallow slope. A 10 degree slope will place one layer boundary every 8mm, and these steps will probably be visible on a print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a sphere, such as the 3D-hubs marvin, this means that the top portion will have a clear layering, but the majority of the shape should have minimal visible layers. For example, this was printed at 0.1mm layer as a test:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Wxrcr.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Wxrcr.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Sean&amp;#39;s Marvin&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;You could also say that the layer is about the same as the embossing on a typical coin (using the same photo as a reference), but realise that the resolution of embossing is greater.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looking inside the eyes of this model demonstrates how a gentle slope exposes the presence of layers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4927" LastActivityDate="2018-08-09T17:56:44.370" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6618" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6674" CreationDate="2018-08-09T19:22:11.633" Score="4" ViewCount="511" Body="&lt;p&gt;I came across this suggestion on the klipper github, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.facebook.com/groups/Hypercube.Evo/permalink/192106034761003/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.facebook.com/groups/Hypercube.Evo/permalink/192106034761003/&lt;/a&gt;. In order to reduce the stretching in the bowden tube you can add fiberglass packaging tape lengthwise along the tube. This would decrease the elasticity while still allowing the plastic filament to run through it. Allowing you to reduce the retraction length and have better control over the amount of plastic being extruded.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any reasons that this would not work or actually decrease the performance of the bowden tube? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11097" LastEditorUserId="4927" LastEditDate="2018-09-12T06:42:40.353" LastActivityDate="2019-09-23T10:24:43.053" Title="Would adding fiberglass packaging tape to a bowden tube be beneficial?" Tags="|bowden|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6619" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-08-09T19:30:42.280" Score="6" ViewCount="620" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think it's best that I explain what my issue is before I explain how I arrived here. I have a Tronxy x5s with a stock board that I am repairing for the sake of repairing, even though I know I should probably just spring for a new board. It's the principle of the thing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The extruder thermistor accurately reads for a few seconds, and then gives a negative reading as if it's been unplugged. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I know that this is the same reading of an unplugged thermistor because when you unplug either the extruder or bed thermistor from a known-good port, it gives this same negative reading. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It is not attached to the original pin. It is attached to a new pin that I moved it to. I cut the old pin off from the thermistor port and soldered the new pin to the traces of the port. Then I changed the pin in the configuration file, and it works, for a while.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The electronics are messy but sound; I have used my voltmeter to verify connectivity and voltage. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The thermistor works; it reads a little over 100k&amp;Omega; in my hot garage and the temperature changes after I put it in my hand for a few minutes. But this temperature change only registers, as explained in the rest, for a few seconds. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I am sure there's a configuration somewhere in the firmware that I am missing that causes that pin to either go &quot;off&quot; or become disused after a few seconds. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Greater context: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The printer was working great for months, but one day the extruder thermistor shorted so badly that the Analog to Digital pin on the Arduino powering the Melzi board was permanently damaged. The temperature reading consistently stayed at 260&amp;nbsp;°C, even when unplugged. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wanted to come up with a repair solution rather than replacing the board (even though I have plans to do that anyway), so I downloaded the datasheet for the Arduino Mega 1248P and looked for other ADC pins I could use. I found that ADC Pin0 was unused on the board, so I thought I'd isolate old pin (ADC Pin 7), solder the trace to the new pin, and change the firmware to reflect the new pin. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Nr4D2.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Datasheet pinout&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Nr4D2.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Datasheet pinout&quot; title=&quot;Datasheet pinout&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eUuyj.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Photo of trace and isolation&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eUuyj.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Photo of trace and isolation&quot; title=&quot;Photo of trace and isolation&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then I changed the pin used for that extruder thermistor reading in the &lt;code&gt;Pins_SANGUINOLOLU_11.h&lt;/code&gt; config file (the old Melzi board for the Tronxy X5s is a Sanguino): &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;// Temperature Sensors&#xA;//&#xA;#define TEMP_0_PIN          7    // Analog Input (pin 33 extruder) &#xA;#define TEMP_BED_PIN        6   // Analog Input (pin 34 bed)&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Changed to &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;// Temperature Sensors&#xA;//&#xA;#define TEMP_0_PIN          0    // Analog Input (pin xx extruder) &#xA;#define TEMP_BED_PIN        6   // Analog Input (pin 34 bed)&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I didn't know what &quot;pin 33&quot; was or used to be so I just put xx in the comment. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway, my hardware was good, and my software was supposedly good, so I flashed the new firmware, plugged it in, and turned it on: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xrAAq.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Good temperature reading&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xrAAq.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Good temperature reading&quot; title=&quot;Good temperature reading&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yay! But after a few seconds... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gbrNb.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Bad temperature reading&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gbrNb.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Bad temperature reading&quot; title=&quot;Bad temperature reading&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Boo. It stops working. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am sure my connections are solid: I've tested for connectivity and voltage. Both the new port and the heat bed thermistor port get 4.97 volts, so it's not a voltage drop. It's something in the Arduino. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12596" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-08-10T05:42:44.693" LastActivityDate="2021-01-25T23:37:39.427" Title="Thermister stops reading temp after a few seconds. (Marlin 1.1.8, Tronxy X5s stock Melzi board)" Tags="|marlin|arduino-mega-2650|thermistor|tronxy-x5|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6621" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6602" CreationDate="2018-08-10T11:33:54.210" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Infill serves two main purposes. These don't seem to map particularly well to the available controls.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Adding strength to the part&lt;/strong&gt; The more plastic your part has inside, the stronger it will be. At least, that is the simplistic assumption. In fact, it seems that infill is not a particularly effective way of strengthening a part (compared for example with thicker walls and structural design features). What is apparent is that some infill patterns are stronger in certain directions, some are more isotropic, and some are just weak.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Supporting upper layers&lt;/strong&gt; Without infill, any top faces on a model will involve bridging, so there is a trade-off between infill density, the number of top layers, and the quality of the top surface of your print. To reflect this function, slicers allow you to incrementally increase the infill density as you approach a top surface. This is particularly useful in a model that has a large inner void which does not otherwise need to be filled.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition to affecting the infill strength, adjusting the infill pattern can influence the points at which infill connects to the walls. For complex shapes this might affect how successful the print is. There are also other parameters which you can adjust (overlap, orientation).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The 'best' infill settings are influenced by the requirements of infill, and the 'success' metric does not appear to have a sharp response that would be useful in performing an optimisation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4927" LastActivityDate="2018-08-10T11:33:54.210" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6622" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3027" CreationDate="2018-08-10T14:40:18.253" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The answer to this question is, no, taking the lever off will not do anything improve repeatability, but it will improve accuracy of the Z Axis. I have tried both ways, actually 4 with a Duet Wifi. 2x 8mm Leadscrews, 0.9 Stepper, Calibrated at 800 Steps per MM.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Full lever size: After actuation I have to baby step up my Z Axis 13 x 0.05mm to let go, and then 13 of the same baby steps back down to actuate it.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Short lever: After actuation I have to baby step 0.05mm 10 times, 10 more times to let go.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Small enstop button only: 3 x 0.05mm baby steps is all that is needed.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Larer button from roller lever endstops: 10 x 0.05 baby steps needed both ways.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The large endstop button only surprised me, thought it would be more reliable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is a bit more difficult to make the small button approach work, and it will increase the likelihood for failure and machine damage though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12602" LastActivityDate="2018-08-10T14:40:18.253" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6623" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6528" CreationDate="2018-08-10T15:52:09.480" Score="5" Body="&lt;h1&gt;FFF/FDM&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can create a metal object via metal casting or using a special filament containing metal parts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Metal filament&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You print with a special filament that contains from mixture of metal and plastic. After the print you heat up the object around 450°C to burn plastic away and melt metal grains together. You need a kiln. &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.instructables.com/id/Homemade-Electric-Kiln/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;DIY kiln&lt;/a&gt; is about 150$.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Before kiln process&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zqtvk.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zqtvk.png&quot; alt=&quot;printed object&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After kiln process&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tMkfY.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tMkfY.png&quot; alt=&quot;postprocessed&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only filament I know is &lt;a href=&quot;https://shop.thevirtualfoundry.com/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Filamet from The Virtual Foundry&lt;/a&gt;. CopperFill from ColorFabb contains just 30% of metal in oposite to Filamet containing 80%.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCcSee448u4lPpFbLx1LwlJw/videos&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;virtual foundry youtube channel&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;review: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hDIUCzV1vMg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hDIUCzV1vMg&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.3ders.org/articles/20160630-filamet-lets-you-3d-print-pure-metal-objects-with-your-desktop-3d-printer.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;3Ders article&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Price&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Copper Filamet™: $ 110.00 / 1kg&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bronze Filamet™: $ 165.00 / 1kg&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Stainless Steel 316L Filamet™: $ 248.00 / 1kg&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just remember that these filaments are pretty dense which makes 1kg spools quite &quot;shorter&quot; and thus even more expensive!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Casting&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This method is very closed to &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lost-wax_casting&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;lost-wax casting&lt;/a&gt;. In short you print an object, surround it in clay/green sand, heat it up to burn out plastic and pour liquid metal in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can find an example of this tech &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HVgPM1ojyLw&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;on youtube&lt;/a&gt;, but the method is pretty much the same as with lost wax casting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;RepRap experiments&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have found some metal printing experiments in the RepRap projet, but did not study them in detail.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.appropedia.org/Open-source_metal_3-D_printer&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.appropedia.org/Open-source_metal_3-D_printer&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/wiki/MetalicaRap&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://reprap.org/wiki/MetalicaRap&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/wiki/Metal_Delta_RepRap_v1&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://reprap.org/wiki/Metal_Delta_RepRap_v1&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/wiki/The_most_Affordable_Desktop_metal_3D_printing&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://reprap.org/wiki/The_most_Affordable_Desktop_metal_3D_printing&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Bronze paste &amp;amp; paste extruder&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is just an idea: You could arguably take a FFF printer with paste extruder and print with a paste containing a high amount of metal in a paste. Then the print is processed in a kiln.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Industrial technologies&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a list of &lt;a href=&quot;https://all3dp.com/1/3d-metal-3d-printer-metal-3d-printing/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;metal print technologies by all3p.com&lt;/a&gt; An example from the list:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Desktop metal&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Markforged Metal X&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://all3dp.com/4/boeing-horizonx-invests-metal-3d-printing-startup-digital-alloys-inc/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Digital Alloys&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="75" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2018-08-10T19:25:25.953" LastActivityDate="2018-08-10T19:25:25.953" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6624" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6625" CreationDate="2018-08-10T19:31:29.763" Score="16" ViewCount="83582" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just received my new Creality Ender 3. I was going through and checking/adjusting everything for alignment, and I noticed that when you &amp;quot;auto home&amp;quot; the print head, the nozzle stops off the front of the print bed by 5-10 mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is that normal?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it perhaps by design to allow purging the nozzle without dumping on the bed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It doesn't appear that there is any way to adjust the Y stop switch without making modifications to it. It also didn't look like there was any easy way to move the bed either.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12559" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-11-10T08:08:41.920" LastActivityDate="2021-01-25T22:14:19.050" Title="Ender 3 nozzle homes off the bed in the Y axis" Tags="|nozzle|y-axis|creality-ender-3|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6625" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6624" CreationDate="2018-08-10T19:56:19.847" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, this is the &amp;quot;intended&amp;quot; behavior, as the home in relation to the physical limit position is not placed correctly about 7.5 mm into the bed in both X and Y.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;to correct this, please look at the &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6399/recalibrating-home-position&quot;&gt;Recalibrating Home-position&lt;/a&gt; for the Ender3&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-01-25T22:14:19.050" LastActivityDate="2021-01-25T22:14:19.050" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6626" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6624" CreationDate="2018-08-10T19:58:04.827" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Many printer's X/Y endstops are not at the origin of the build plate/heated bed. In the firmware, an offset is defined from the build plate origin to the endstop locations. This is normal, nothing to worry about.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you hook up your printer to your computer over USB, and install a program that can interface with the printer (e.g. PronterFace, OctoPrint, Repetier-Host, etc.) through a so called &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10573/what-is-a-printer-console-terminal?&quot;&gt;terminal&lt;/a&gt;, you can send the print head to the origin with command &lt;code&gt;G1 X0 Y0&lt;/code&gt; (or you can put that line in a G-code file and print the file, be sure to have homed the printer first with &lt;code&gt;G28&lt;/code&gt;). You will then see the head move to the origin, which should normally be the left front corner as the firmware compensated for the endstop offsets. If the print head is not at the origin after these commands, you could recalibrate the &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6375/how-to-center-my-prints-on-the-build-platform-re-calibrate-homing-offset/&quot;&gt;endstop offsets&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-11-10T08:16:19.007" LastActivityDate="2020-11-10T08:16:19.007" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6627" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5862" CreationDate="2018-08-11T00:06:41.027" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could use the &lt;strong&gt;Python console of FreeCAD&lt;/strong&gt;. Issuing the following commands&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;FreeCAD.ActiveDocument.ActiveObject.Shape.Area&#xA;FreeCAD.ActiveDocument.ActiveObject.Shape.Volume&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;will output the area and the volume of the object, respectively.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know how to access the console output from outside FreeCAD, but there is an option in FreeCAD called &lt;strong&gt;Redirect internal Python output to report view&lt;/strong&gt; which I think is what you are looking for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might want to look into the Scripting documentation of FreeCAD for further instructions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bA3in.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bA3in.png&quot; alt=&quot;Using the Python console of FreeCAD to calcaulate area and volume of an object&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10684" LastEditorUserId="10684" LastEditDate="2018-08-11T00:13:01.090" LastActivityDate="2018-08-11T00:13:01.090" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6628" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6631" CreationDate="2018-08-11T12:10:56.980" Score="7" ViewCount="664" Body="&lt;p&gt;Recently I bought a Prusa i3 pro W (from Geeetech) and I've been struggling with something that is ruining all my printings. I attach a photo with what was supposed to be little &quot;boxes&quot;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BPctH.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Failed cube print&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BPctH.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Controller display&quot; title=&quot;Failed cube print&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you can see the Z distance is doing weird things, I think may can be fixed through this configurations, as it seems the Z axis is moving too much:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CCZqn.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Controller display&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CCZqn.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; title=&quot;Controller display&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other hand, the form the printer is doing the skirt is also bothering me, I've tried a lot of configurations and I think it's a problem of over extrusion, but I'm a newbie and I don't really know what more could I do...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0mFOw.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Close up of failed print&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0mFOw.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Close up of failed print&quot; title=&quot;Close up of failed print&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'll really thank you for every answer because I've been a lot of days with this and I begin to feel really disappointed with all.. Thank you!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12523" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-08-12T13:40:42.003" LastActivityDate="2018-08-12T13:40:42.003" Title="Problems with Z step" Tags="|z-axis|extrusion|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6629" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6653" CreationDate="2018-08-11T15:43:00.390" Score="7" ViewCount="463" Body="&lt;p&gt;For developing a CNC system, I am reading the &quot;ISO 6983-1:2009&quot;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In it, there are several references to what they call &quot;Detailed format classification&quot; which I struggle to understand:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A classification of the data in a block shall be used to specify the programming detail for a system and machine configuration. This is called the detailed format classification and is described in Annex C.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Zero omission shall be specified in the detailed format classification (see Annex C).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The number of digits shall be designated by the detailed format classification ( see Annex C).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seem this &quot;Detailed format classification&quot; is sort of a definition of the machine on which the program will run. But in this case, I do not understand why this is something part of the program and not some values of the control system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is: What exactly is this &quot;Detailed format classification&quot;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is it part of the program?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What is it purpose?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lXEJv.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lXEJv.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12615" LastActivityDate="2018-08-14T14:25:51.347" Title="What is the &quot;Detailed format classification&quot; of the ISO 6983 (G-Code spec)" Tags="|g-code|cnc|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6630" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6639" CreationDate="2018-08-11T16:04:26.237" Score="5" ViewCount="1457" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have recently got an MKS GEN L V1.0 board and 5 TMC2130s. (X, Y, two Z, E). I have wired it all up and uploaded Marlin 1.1.9 and after some quick troubleshooting I got the motors moving. Next day I tried it again and it gave me this error: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;E0 driver error detected:&#xA;  overtemperature&#xA;  short to ground (coil A)&#xA;  short to ground (coil B)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;with the following driver debug report: (notice that the extruder driver doesn't show up)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;  X   Y   Z&#xA;Enabled     false   false   false&#xA;Set current 800 800 800&#xA;RMS current 795 795 795&#xA;MAX current 1121    1121    1121&#xA;Run current 25/31   25/31   25/31&#xA;Hold current    12/31   12/31   12/31&#xA;CS actual       12/31   12/31   12/31&#xA;PWM scale       10  10  10&#xA;vsense      1=.18   1=.18   1=.18&#xA;stealthChop true    true    true&#xA;msteps      16  16  16&#xA;tstep       1048575 1048575 1048575&#xA;pwm&#xA;threshold       0   0   0&#xA;[mm/s]      -   -   -&#xA;OT prewarn  false   false   false&#xA;OT prewarn has been triggered   false   false   false&#xA;off time        5   5   5&#xA;blank time  24  24  24&#xA;hysteresis&#xA;-end        2   2   2&#xA;-start      3   3   3&#xA;Stallguard thrs 8   8   0&#xA;DRVSTATUS   X   Y   Z&#xA;stallguard&#xA;sg_result       0   0   0&#xA;fsactive&#xA;stst        X   X   X&#xA;olb&#xA;ola&#xA;s2gb&#xA;s2ga&#xA;otpw&#xA;ot&#xA;Driver registers:   X = 0x80:0C:00:00&#xA;Y = 0x80:0C:00:00&#xA;Z = 0x80:0C:00:00&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did some research and found that you should change the CS pin for that stepper and so I did. I tried almost every available pin on my board but no luck. The only change I got was when I wired it to pin 11 and got this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;E0 driver error detected:&#xA;  overtemperature&#xA;  short to ground (coil A)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have the Watterott TMC2130 SilentStep Sticks and have examined the board which seemed correct. Is all wired correctly. Tomorrow I will try to switch the driver to one from another axis and try to switch the stepper to see if anything changes, but it seems to me that it shouldn't since it worked for some time. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12616" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-10-21T22:06:25.400" LastActivityDate="2018-10-21T22:07:29.990" Title="Short to ground error using TMC2130 stepper drivers" Tags="|marlin|stepper-driver|tmc2130|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6631" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6628" CreationDate="2018-08-11T17:34:44.537" Score="5" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;as per base of the pink printout it looks like the bed is far below the nozzle (level the bed)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;to check the Z steps/mm setting, the best way will be to home it, then from menu move Z by 50mm and check with a ruler or meter traveled distance.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;then using a formula (requestedMove/measuredMove) * currentSteps set new value in to Z steps/mm setting. After that repeat the exercise until you will get no difference.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9730" LastActivityDate="2018-08-11T17:34:44.537" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6632" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6633" CreationDate="2018-08-11T23:18:20.737" Score="7" ViewCount="1210" Body="&lt;p&gt;Am wondering if anybody knows what type of sensor this is (from a build plate).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aKUBa.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aKUBa.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Perhaps a thermocoupler? The colouring of the wires seems to suggest it is not directional?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would like to know details so that I can make use of it in my own projects.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9201" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2018-08-12T08:24:28.623" LastActivityDate="2018-08-12T08:24:28.623" Title="Identify temperature sensor" Tags="|electronics|part-identification|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6633" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6632" CreationDate="2018-08-12T08:13:02.767" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is quite likely not a thermocouple, but a thermistor:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;A thermocouple would look like a small blob of metal. The tip of your temperature sensor appears to be a glass bead, which is a commonly used way to encase thermistors.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Thermocouples are polarized. The fact that the wiring is not &quot;directional&quot; suggests it is a thermistor.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Thermocouples are used in high-temperature applications (such as a high-temperature hotend for printing specialty materials), where a thermistor would break down. The bed is not such a high-temperature application.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can easily verify this with a multimeter. If it was a thermocouple, its resistance would be near zero. With a thermistor, you should see a decent amount of resistance (most 3D printing thermistors are 100k at room temperature).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastActivityDate="2018-08-12T08:13:02.767" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6634" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2018-08-12T08:26:25.803" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2018-08-12T08:26:25.803" LastActivityDate="2018-08-12T08:26:25.803" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6635" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2018-08-12T08:26:25.803" Score="0" Body="In case you have trouble correctly identifying components of your printer." OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2018-08-12T13:29:18.830" LastActivityDate="2018-08-12T13:29:18.830" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6636" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5856" CreationDate="2018-08-12T09:43:11.577" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Difficult to say with the given data, but here are a couple of ideas:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;First theory:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The belt is too thin/flexible for the linear guide.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Linear guides remove the backslash by adding quite some pressure in the ball system: The block is slightly too small (compared to the rail) and thus it compress the balls and rail. The backslash is avoided until you reach this force.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This pressure require a little bit of force to move the block along the rail, so if your belt is too thin or flexible, the belt will start to move until the elasticity of the belt reach the force required to move the block, then the block move a little bit and stop again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In a fast movement, your block never get to stop, while in a slow movement, it has time to start and stop. Maybe what you feel like &amp;quot;not a smooth movement&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you identify this case, I suggest you the following solutions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lubricate correctly the guide, this could be enough to reduce the issue to an acceptable level.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Change the belt to a larger one, with fibre glass inside (not only rubber).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If I am correct, the &amp;quot;H&amp;quot; of your MGN12H stand for the pressure of the block. &lt;code&gt;H&lt;/code&gt; is for high pressure, switching to a &lt;code&gt;C&lt;/code&gt; is far enough for a 3D printer and will reduce the drag.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Second theory:&lt;/strong&gt; (Thanks to FernandoBaltazar)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You got some dust, rust inside&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remove the belt and move the block with the hand, if you are able to feel the movement is not smooth, then it's probably this case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Add some grease (Never in your life use cooking oil)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Clean the dust of the rail and exterior of the block&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Move the block from one side to the other of the rail until the movement become smooth.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12615" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:29:41.667" LastActivityDate="2018-08-12T09:43:11.577" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6637" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5595" CreationDate="2018-08-12T12:58:58.577" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's really pretty easy to diagnose a &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hall_effect_sensor&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Hall effect sensor&lt;/a&gt;. If you plug the sensor into the board (so it has power), then wave a metal object (screwdriver tip should work nicely) very close to the head of the sensor, the light should go on if it's reading. If the light doesn't come on, there's an issue. An issue would most likely be the wiring. You may want to test the same sensor by plugging it into a known good port on your main board. Any of the axis stops should behave the same, but since it's both the x- and y-axis sensors which are not functioning, I'd try attaching them to the z-axis stop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11242" LastEditorUserId="11242" LastEditDate="2018-08-12T13:23:03.350" LastActivityDate="2018-08-12T13:23:03.350" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6638" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3924" CreationDate="2018-08-12T15:44:18.223" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Anet A8 files that come preloaded are &lt;code&gt;.stl&lt;/code&gt; so if you try to print those it will say printing zero percent and then just switch right back to preheating PLA without any error message. Download a free slicer tool if that's the case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12626" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-08-12T21:26:15.337" LastActivityDate="2018-08-12T21:26:15.337" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6639" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6630" CreationDate="2018-08-12T17:27:23.357" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have fixed it. I tried uploading the bugfix version of Marlin and no luck. Then I noticed a loose jumper wire that connected the driver to the board and when re-installing it I noticed it didn't grip the pin that strongly and could be easily pulled off so I switched the wire and everything works now. Turns out that even jumper wires can have a bad connection. Hope this helps someone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12616" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-10-21T22:07:29.990" LastActivityDate="2018-10-21T22:07:29.990" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6640" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-08-12T20:36:21.980" Score="5" ViewCount="637" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought a buddha statue and I would like to scan it using photogrammetry and publish the result. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Am I allowed to do that?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this the same like scanning a book and publishing it? Sketchfab on the other hand is full of 3d models of commercial products.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="911" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-08-12T21:18:32.833" LastActivityDate="2018-08-13T15:02:22.210" Title="Am I allowed to publish a 3d scan of a statue/thing I bought?" Tags="|scanning|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2018-08-19T15:31:08.210" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6642" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-08-13T00:23:29.873" Score="9" ViewCount="597" Body="&lt;p&gt;How can I avoid the irregularities and stringing in the print.&#xA;Printer Used: Fortus 450mc&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Model: PC&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Model tip: T10&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Support tip: T12SR&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Support: SR-100&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Slice Height: 0.0050 in&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have printed two objects using Grabcad print (with Insight)&#xA;1) Voronoi bear:&#xA;The voronoi bear has missing layers/unattached layer at its bottom everything else seems OK. I do notice  a bit of stringing though.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GvOQE.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GvOQE.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Top view of voronoi bear&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/btwHY.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/btwHY.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Side view&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AKYE3.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AKYE3.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Missing/uattached layers&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;2) Cylinder with hollow channels:&#xA;The cylinder has a lot of visible stringing and one of the channels is slightly deformed. &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jZPxH.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jZPxH.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Top View&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/huROn.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/huROn.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Front View&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/usNsN.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/usNsN.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;stringing&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;Please refer to the attached images.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please let me know if any additional details are needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4544" LastEditorUserId="4544" LastEditDate="2018-08-14T23:34:13.230" LastActivityDate="2018-08-16T02:05:39.937" Title="How to avoid stringing?" Tags="|fdm|calibration|print-material|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6643" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-08-13T03:40:23.727" Score="5" ViewCount="2988" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've had my Monoprice Maker Ultimate for a few months and have started doing upgrades to it. My most recent change is in upgrading the firmware to  a newer version of Marlin so that I can better control the thermal settings and implement a probe in the future. For now, I intend to level the bed manually.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Well the issue I'm having now is that after flashing the firmware (Marlin Firmware 1.1.9) and attempting to home, the z axis limit switch is unresponsive. X and Y work as they should. I send M119 codes to the printer in Pronterface when holding the Z switch with my finger and get that the z axis is open. I even flipped over the machine and shorted out the two pins on the board leading to the switch and I get that its still open.(It is open when not pressing the switch, the switch is not inverted. If I flash the firmware back to the original, it functions fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've been digging through the Marlin files learning how it works and am wondering if there are any extra steps I have to take to designate the switches in the config file. Or if a conflicting bed leveling/probe setting may be overriding with the switch's functionality. I've been searching around but haven't seen much about this issue. Wondering if someone could point me in the right direction. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a repository of my &lt;code&gt;configuration.h&lt;/code&gt; and &lt;code&gt;*_adv.h&lt;/code&gt; files: &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/jeffc-git/3dimensify&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://github.com/jeffc-git/3dimensify&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12631" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-12-10T06:21:11.633" LastActivityDate="2019-12-10T06:21:11.633" Title="Z-axis endstop not functioning after Marlin Firmware installation" Tags="|marlin|z-axis|endstop|monoprice-maker-ultimate|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6644" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-08-13T05:17:30.263" Score="5" ViewCount="2354" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cura has a layer view feature that lets you watch a simulation of the extruder head as it lays down material at each layer. Is it possible to get Cura to show a time stamp as it does this? That would let me set reminders to check a print just at certain critical times.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12562" LastActivityDate="2022-12-25T19:58:30.260" Title="Show the time index in Cura Layer View playback" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6645" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6644" CreationDate="2018-08-13T07:05:50.450" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;These estimates tend to be very approximate, even if Cura has the accurate acceleration values for your firmware. An error of 100% is not unusual.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What you probably want is an alarm at a specific layer (a few before the critical ones). You might be able to add this to Octoprint fairly easily - it does support plugins which can provide (for example) pushbullet notifications.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure that 'critical' points are much more likely to fail than other less predictable things (like bed adheesion failure, extruder jams, filament breaks) - unless you're testing features (and then hopefully you can print only a slice of the part).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4927" LastActivityDate="2018-08-13T07:05:50.450" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6646" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6640" CreationDate="2018-08-13T08:42:35.660" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the design was made from an artist and is not public domain, than you should not upload that scan without the (written) permission of the creator of the design. Espacially a scan of a decorative object will likely be protected, so costumers buy the original instead of printing itself or buy a printed version. If you would design a deco object and sell copies of it, you also don't want that others just scan it and print it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9575" LastActivityDate="2018-08-13T08:42:35.660" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6648" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6399" CreationDate="2018-08-13T11:46:39.467" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Following on from 0scar's answer&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To change or obtain your EEPROM settings you need to open Repetier Host (for Linux or Windows, v2.1.3 - the OSX version I tried, v1.1.0, didn't seem to have this functionality).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;To change existing settings&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From &lt;a href=&quot;https://forum.repetier.com/discussion/4641/how-to-make-changes-to-the-eeprom-data&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;How to make changes to the EEPROM data&lt;/a&gt;. Apparently there is an EEPROM editor available (in Repetier Host). From &lt;a href=&quot;https://forum.repetier.com/discussion/comment/18712/#Comment_18712&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this post&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you see it in eeprom editor just change them. If it is repetier-firmware based it will store changes in eeprom on pressing &amp;quot;ok&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;To retrieve existing settings&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://forum.repetier.com/discussion/comment/2817/#Comment_2817&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;This post&lt;/a&gt; from &lt;a href=&quot;https://forum.repetier.com/discussion/933/retrieval-of-existing-settings&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;retrieval of existing settings...&lt;/a&gt;, shows how:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To copy eeprom data:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Connect with host&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Open eeprom settings&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Select export eeprom settings. That saves all data in a epr file and you can later use import eepsom settings to rewrite it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An example of the resulting file is shown in the question, &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/4184/help-with-repetier-firmware-variables-dimension-dual-delta-j-group-robotics&quot;&gt;Help with Repetier firmware variables (Dimension Dual Delta - J Group Robotics)&lt;/a&gt;, a sample of which I have included below:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;&amp;lt;Repetier-Firmware-EEPROM&amp;gt;&#xA;&amp;lt;epr pos=&amp;quot;1028&amp;quot; type=&amp;quot;0&amp;quot; value=&amp;quot;0&amp;quot;&amp;gt;Language&amp;lt;/epr&amp;gt;&#xA;&amp;lt;epr pos=&amp;quot;75&amp;quot; type=&amp;quot;2&amp;quot; value=&amp;quot;115200&amp;quot;&amp;gt;Baudrate&amp;lt;/epr&amp;gt;&#xA;&amp;lt;epr pos=&amp;quot;129&amp;quot; type=&amp;quot;3&amp;quot; value=&amp;quot;32.752&amp;quot;&amp;gt;Filament printed [m]&amp;lt;/epr&amp;gt;&#xA;&amp;lt;epr pos=&amp;quot;125&amp;quot; type=&amp;quot;2&amp;quot; value=&amp;quot;21644&amp;quot;&amp;gt;Printer active [s]&amp;lt;/epr&amp;gt;&#xA;&amp;lt;epr pos=&amp;quot;79&amp;quot; type=&amp;quot;2&amp;quot; value=&amp;quot;0&amp;quot;&amp;gt;Max. inactive time [ms,0=off]&amp;lt;/epr&amp;gt;&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, you would appear to have to be running Repetier firmware for these two solutions to work, and not Marlin (but I may be wrong).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4762" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:29:41.667" LastActivityDate="2018-08-13T15:09:01.080" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6651" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6644" CreationDate="2018-08-13T14:57:51.487" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I may interpret your question a bit, and add alternatives to Sean H's suggestions. I agree that any attempt to estimate elapsed time per layer is doomed.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Perhaps you should just look at the LayerView to determine the critical layers of interest.  Then edit the gcode file in a text editor.  Locate the start of the layer in question, and insert a PAUSE command (as well as whatever other actions your firmware supports, in case you can actually send an audible alarm or something).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you really just want to print a subsection of the item, you're better off removing the unwanted parts in MeshMixer/MeshLab/whateverCAD , and slicing just the part you want to produce. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2191" LastActivityDate="2018-08-13T14:57:51.487" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6652" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6640" CreationDate="2018-08-13T15:02:22.210" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;First thing to do is get a lawyer skilled in copyright law as applicable where you live.  It's going to depend in no small part on whether your scanned model is considered a copy or a transformative work of art. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally, I see scanning an object as similar to photographing it  (or sketching it).  Lots of art objects, or for that matter personal items such as a photo of a living person, are protected by copyright; others aren't.  If I made the laws, which I sadly don't :-) , I would consider a scanned, printed object to be in the same boat as a sketch -- has to be demonstrably transformative and all that.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2191" LastActivityDate="2018-08-13T15:02:22.210" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6653" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6629" CreationDate="2018-08-13T19:06:16.817" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is simply the formalised definition of the syntax, so that a parser can be written to interpret any legal G-code. Without this, there is ambiguity - not in the general operation, but in the bounds of what is 'legal' and what should be rejected.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Taking the example &lt;code&gt;X+053&lt;/code&gt;, this is not a position of 53 units, it is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Address &lt;code&gt;X&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sign is required (in this implementation)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Leading zeros can be ommitted&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Up to 5 orders of magnitude before the decimal&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Up to 3 digits of precision after the decimal&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This means that X can range from +99999.999 to -99999.999 - an interpretation which matches the verbiage at the bottom of the page.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As hinted at in the text, it is &lt;em&gt;possible&lt;/em&gt; to use various fixed precision number systems (think using integer milimetres rather than decimal metres), and also to anchor at the most significant bit, so &lt;code&gt;001&lt;/code&gt; could represent &lt;code&gt;00100.000&lt;/code&gt;. It may help to remember that these specifications were designed in the days of dedicated hardware rather than general purpose computers, when the standard portable storage medium held ~600 kB, and relate to actual machines that had been developed long before that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4927" LastEditorUserId="4927" LastEditDate="2018-08-14T14:25:51.347" LastActivityDate="2018-08-14T14:25:51.347" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6654" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6655" CreationDate="2018-08-13T19:51:37.393" Score="7" ViewCount="48602" Body="&lt;p&gt;Creality does offer its firmware on &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.creality3d.cn/download/firmware_c0001&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;creality3d.cn&lt;/a&gt; as .hex files. These are pretty good as backups as one can't alter and destroy them by accident.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But... How do you install them?!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is about installing firmware &lt;em&gt;directly&lt;/em&gt; and &lt;em&gt;without&lt;/em&gt; another microcontroller. To use another mictrocontroller is &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6685&quot;&gt;How to install new firmware via a Microcontroller?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2018-08-16T08:31:09.473" LastActivityDate="2019-12-30T15:48:33.763" Title="How to install a .hex firmware?" Tags="|firmware|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6655" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6654" CreationDate="2018-08-13T19:51:37.393" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Creality also does provide an installation PDF. The process they propose is twofold and might need different settings on other machines&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;. Spots where I assume you might need to adjust are noted with&lt;sup&gt;A&lt;/sup&gt;. Note that &lt;strong&gt;this solution depends on CURA&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;1. Install the printer as a periphery machine.&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This part is specific for Windows. If you use Linux or a MAC, you will need to use a different setup, but you might get the same results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Turn on the power on the printer and connect it from the MircoUSB to a USB of the computer. This should automatically install the driver. If not, the Driver is on the SD card provided with the Printer&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;. &#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;To manually install &lt;code&gt;windows Key&lt;/code&gt; + &quot;&lt;code&gt;MANAGER&lt;/code&gt;&quot; and choose &lt;em&gt;Device manager&lt;/em&gt;. Find the serial port that shows yellow, Right-click, choose &lt;code&gt;Update driver software &amp;gt; Browse my computer for driver software&lt;/code&gt;. Now &lt;code&gt;Browse&lt;/code&gt;, find the location of USB driver on the SD card and click &lt;code&gt;Next&lt;/code&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Generally,the serial port(COM) you need update has the biggest number, but can change.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A good idea is to confirm the correct port with a software like &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.repetier.com/download-now/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Repetier Host&lt;/a&gt;, with which you can control the printer directly -  if it works, you got the drivers and the port correct. Also, you know the correct Baudrate.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;After the driver installation, launch &lt;a href=&quot;https://ultimaker.com/en/products/ultimaker-cura-software&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;CURA&lt;/a&gt; to do some settings. In &lt;code&gt;File &amp;gt; Preferences&lt;/code&gt;:&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Print Window is &quot;Pronterface UI&quot;&lt;sup&gt;A&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Switch to &lt;code&gt;Machine &amp;gt; Machine Settings&lt;/code&gt;:&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Serial Port: choose the one that just was updated&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Baudrate: 115200&lt;sup&gt;A&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;2. Upload the .hex file via cura&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;code&gt;Machine &amp;gt; Install custom Firmware&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Make sure the printer is connected, then &lt;code&gt;OK&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;find the .hex file on your PC, then confirm.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wait for the process to finish.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1 - most likely, you will have to change the baudrate&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;2 - This might not be true for all manufacturers, but is for creality. Other manufacturers might have different sources for these.&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;A - Adjust as needed!&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2018-09-14T10:11:21.713" LastActivityDate="2018-09-14T10:11:21.713" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6656" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6654" CreationDate="2018-08-13T20:05:18.100" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;A major part of the Arduino IDE is sort of semi-hidden, and that is some guy called  avrdude. Actually, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.nongnu.org/avrdude/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;AVRDUDE – AVR Downloader/UploaDEr&lt;/a&gt; is a standalone binary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As an aside, there is also &lt;code&gt;gcc&lt;/code&gt; which does the compiling, but that is another matter. The &lt;code&gt;avrdude&lt;/code&gt; uploads the compiled binary provided by &lt;code&gt;gcc&lt;/code&gt; on to the Arduino, via the USB port (COM port).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can invoke this from the command line (assuming that you have the Arduino IDE installed).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will need to specify (see &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.nongnu.org/avrdude/user-manual/avrdude_4.html#Option-Descriptions&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;command line option descriptions&lt;/a&gt;):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The baud rate of the COM port (&lt;code&gt;-b&lt;/code&gt;)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The COM port (&lt;code&gt;-P&lt;/code&gt;)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The processor used in the board (for the Arduino Mega2560 board: ATmega2560) (&lt;code&gt;-p&lt;/code&gt;)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The path to the &lt;code&gt;.hex&lt;/code&gt; file (&lt;code&gt;-U&lt;/code&gt;)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The path to the &lt;code&gt;.conf&lt;/code&gt; file of avrdude itself (&lt;code&gt;-C&lt;/code&gt;)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Verbose mode, so see what is happening (&lt;code&gt;-v&lt;/code&gt;)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Specify the programmer to be used (&lt;code&gt;-c&lt;/code&gt;). See the -c option on &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.nongnu.org/avrdude/user-manual/avrdude_4.html#Option-Descriptions&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;command line option descriptions&lt;/a&gt; for more information.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Disable auto erase for flash (&lt;code&gt;-D&lt;/code&gt;)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The command will be of the form:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;&amp;lt;path to arduino&amp;gt;/hardware/tools/avr/bin/avrdude&#xA;-C&amp;lt;path to arduino&amp;gt;/hardware/tools/avr/etc/avrdude.conf&#xA;-v -patmega2560 -carduino -b 115200 -cstk500v2&#xA;-P&amp;lt;name of serial port&amp;gt;&#xA;-D -Uflash:w:&amp;lt;path to hex file&amp;gt;:i&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This example above:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Specifies the full path to the &lt;code&gt;avrdude&lt;/code&gt; binary&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Specifies the full path to the &lt;code&gt;avrdude&lt;/code&gt; &lt;code&gt;.conf&lt;/code&gt; configuration file&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Verbose mode&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The ATmega2560 processor used in the Arduino Mega2560 board&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The Arduino programmer&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The baud rate of the USB port&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The Atmel STK500 Version 2.x firmware programmer (may not be required)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The port to which the Arduino board is connected&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Disables auto-flash as it is not required – Auto erase is not used for ATxmega devices as these devices can use page erase before writing each page so no explicit chip erase is required. Note however that any page not affected by the current operation will retain its previous contents.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The memory to be uploaded to and the path to the .hex file (see the -U option on &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.nongnu.org/avrdude/user-manual/avrdude_4.html#Option-Descriptions&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;command line option descriptions&lt;/a&gt; for more information):&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;code&gt;flash&lt;/code&gt; specifies the flash ROM of the device.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;code&gt;w:&lt;/code&gt; read the specified file and write it to the specified device memory&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;code&gt;:i&lt;/code&gt; specifies Intel Hex&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Examples&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For Windows&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;C:\dev\Arduino\hardware\tools\avr\bin\avrdude &#xA;-CC:\dev\Arduino\hardware\tools\avr\etc\avrdude.conf &#xA;-v -patmega2560 -carduino -b115200 -cstk500v2&#xA;-P\\.\COM1 &#xA;-D -Uflash:w:C:\Users\&amp;lt;username&amp;gt;\Documents\firmware.hex:i&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For OSX&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;/Applications/Arduino/hardware/tools/avr/bin/avrdude &#xA;-C/Applications/Arduino/hardware/tools/avr/etc/avrdude.conf -v -patmega2560 -carduino -b115200 -cstk500v2 -P\\.\COM1 -D -Uflash:w:/Users/&amp;lt;username&amp;gt;/Documents/Arduino/firmware.hex:i&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Alternatives&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are not comfortable using a command line interface (CLI) it might be easier to use a GUI solution…&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;XLoader&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a Windows only solution, see &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.hobbytronics.co.uk/arduino-xloader&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Uploading Arduino HEX files with XLoader&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1Zglt.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;XLoader UI&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1Zglt.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;XLoader UI&quot; title=&quot;XLoader UI&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the &lt;a href=&quot;http://xloader.russemotto.com/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;author’s website&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I’ve made a small program that can be used to upload your own *.hex&#xA;  files to arduino boards using the bootloader. That means you don’t&#xA;  need a flash programmer. I made it for my own use and found it pretty&#xA;  useful. So now I’ve made a more user friendly version.. To use it&#xA;  compile you’re code in something like AvrStudio. Then simply start&#xA;  XLoader.exe, pick a hex file and press upload. That’s it. Good news it&#xA;  now also supports Arduino Uno.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Arduino Builder&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From &lt;a href=&quot;http://arduinodev.com/arduino-uploader/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Arduino Builder – standalone utility for building and uploading Arduino sketches&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;ol&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Choose file, either a sketch file (.ino), an HEX file (.hex) or an ELF file (.elf)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Choose the board type in the dropdown list.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Click on the serial port (or USBASP button) and theuploading will be proceeded.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Arduino Uploader&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the &lt;a href=&quot;http://arduinodev.com/arduino-uploader/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;same page&lt;/a&gt;, there is Arduino Uploader which is a command line version of Arduino Builder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4762" LastActivityDate="2018-08-13T20:05:18.100" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6657" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6658" CreationDate="2018-08-13T20:18:42.070" Score="4" ViewCount="5808" Body="&lt;p&gt;Because &lt;code&gt;.hex&lt;/code&gt; files can be installed without any need of an Arduino (serving as an ISP) to flash the firmware on Creality machines I was wondering, if firmware compiled via some other means (for example the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.repetier.com/firmware/v100/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Repetier firmware&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.arduino.cc/en/Main/Software#toc2&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Arduino&lt;/a&gt;) could be exported as a &lt;code&gt;.hex&lt;/code&gt; file.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2018-08-14T00:09:53.950" LastActivityDate="2018-10-01T19:56:40.880" Title="Export firmware as a .hex" Tags="|firmware|repetier|arduino|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6658" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6657" CreationDate="2018-08-13T20:21:10.840" Score="4" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Current versions of Arduino IDE&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Use the menu option in the Arduino IDE:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Sketch&lt;/strong&gt; ► &lt;strong&gt;Export Compiled Binary&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See &lt;a href=&quot;https://forum.arduino.cc/index.php?topic=131655.msg2445740#msg2445740&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;post #6&lt;/a&gt; from the thread &lt;a href=&quot;https://forum.arduino.cc/index.php?topic=131655.0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;How to get hex file from arduino files ?&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Well, since it was bumped it's worth mentioning there is a new way to&#xA;  do this added in Arduino IDE 1.6.5:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Sketch &gt; Export Compiled Binary&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;If you are doing this with an example then you will be prompted to save the sketch in another location.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Wait until the sketch has finished compiling.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Sketch &gt; Show Sketch Folder&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;The .hex file will be in the sketch folder&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a screenshot for OS X:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GhdPn.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Export compiled Binary menu option&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GhdPn.png&quot; alt=&quot;Export compiled Binary menu option&quot; title=&quot;Export compiled Binary menu option&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is no need to fully compile, a simple verify will suffice. From &lt;a href=&quot;https://forum.arduino.cc/index.php?topic=131655.msg3118445#msg3118445&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;post #10&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Reopen Arduino, and open a sketch of your choice (use the Examples-&gt;Digital-&gt;Blink if you have no other sketches). Hit the Verify button to compile the sketch. Now, navigate to the build.path folder. You should see a bunch of files including one with a .hex extension.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Older versions of Arduino IDE&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If using an older version of the Arduino IDE, from &lt;a href=&quot;https://forum.arduino.cc/index.php?topic=131655.msg3399334#msg3399334&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;post #12&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Try this if using an older version of Arduino &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://arduinoisfun.blogspot.in/2016/01/taking-out-hex-file-from-arduino.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Taking out HEX file from Arduino in 3 simple steps&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Open Arduino IDE&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;File&lt;/strong&gt; ► &lt;strong&gt;Preferences&lt;/strong&gt; menu&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SUgn2.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Arduino IDE Preferences menu&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SUgn2.png&quot; alt=&quot;Arduino IDE Preferences menu&quot; title=&quot;Arduino IDE Preferences menu&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Zd2te.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Arduino IDE Preferences dialog&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Zd2te.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Arduino IDE Preferences dialog&quot; title=&quot;Arduino IDE Preferences dialog&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol start=&quot;3&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Find &quot;Show verbose output during &quot; and check the &quot;compilation&quot; box&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Locate the &lt;code&gt;preferences.txt&lt;/code&gt; file and open it&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Add the following line (this is the path to the directory where the hexfile will be stored): &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;build.path=C:\Users\&amp;lt;username&amp;gt;\Desktop\hexfile&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Change the following line&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;export.delete_target_folder=true&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;to &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;export.delete_target_folder=false&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Quit the Arduino IDE and restart it.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Now when you compile, the directory specified in &lt;code&gt;build.path&lt;/code&gt; will contain the &lt;code&gt;.hex&lt;/code&gt; file (along with other files which can be ignored)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4762" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-10-01T19:56:40.880" LastActivityDate="2018-10-01T19:56:40.880" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6659" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6675" CreationDate="2018-08-13T20:44:29.197" Score="7" ViewCount="7897" Body="&lt;p&gt;Up till now, I've tended to scale my first layer according to the print quality, so a 0.12&amp;nbsp;mm first layer for a 0.08&amp;nbsp;mm print, and 0.28&amp;nbsp;mm for a 0.2&amp;nbsp;mm print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After changing to a PLA which isn't sticking well, I'm wondering if the first layer is best determined by the printer/tolerance/material, rather than the overall print quality settings. Am I going to get more predictable results if I stick to a 0.12&amp;nbsp;mm first layer regardless? This is with a 0.4&amp;nbsp;mm nozzle on an Anet-A8.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4927" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-01-29T05:38:23.000" LastActivityDate="2020-01-29T05:38:23.000" Title="Should I vary the first layer height" Tags="|print-quality|build-plate|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6660" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6399" CreationDate="2018-08-13T21:00:01.393" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/4762/greenonline&quot;&gt;Greenonline&lt;/a&gt; and I spent this evening hacking/reverse engineering the Ender3 to solve this. &lt;a href=&quot;https://gr33nonline.wordpress.com/2018/08/13/compiling-marlin-for-a-creality-ender-3/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Greenonline also wrote about this in his blog&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Step 1 - Get the Firmware&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To do this, there are basically two ways:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Find the a ready-to-use firmware&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Make your own&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Variant 1 would be to use the pre-supplied .hex files from Creality or some other manufacturer. Variant 2 means writing the settings yourself or using &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.repetier.com/firmware/v100/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Repetier firmware&lt;/a&gt; to write the files for you. In the case of the Ender 3, the chip used sadly disqualified Repetier firmware, so writing it yourself is the only option.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To write the firmware yourself or using Repetier firmware, you need the old settings. To get these, connect the printer via USB, connect it with a software like &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.repetier.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Repetier host&lt;/a&gt; and send &lt;a href=&quot;http://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M503.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;code&gt;M503&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/a&gt; to get all the settings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, either hack those into Repetier firmware or use a blank &lt;a href=&quot;http://marlinfw.org/meta/download/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;code&gt;Marlin.ino&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/a&gt; and the Arduino IDE to customise it. In the later case, you need to put the folder &lt;code&gt;Marlin-?.?.X.ZIP/Marlin-?.?.X/Marlin&lt;/code&gt; into the &lt;code&gt;Arduino&lt;/code&gt; folder in Documents (Windows) or Home (Mac). Now open the &lt;code&gt;Marlin.ino&lt;/code&gt; in &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.arduino.cc/en/Main/Software&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Arduino IDE&lt;/a&gt;. Set up the new firmware with these base settings or adjust as needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Step 2 - Adjust&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now that we have our Configuration files (in the end we pretty much skipped step 1 and &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.chaos-drucker.de/wp-content/uploads/2018/04/Marlin-Ender3-V1.zip&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;grabbed a fitting (&lt;strong&gt;German!&lt;/strong&gt;) one&lt;/a&gt; from &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.chaos-drucker.de/anleitungen-und-tutorials/creality-ender3-mit-marlin-ausstatten/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Christian&lt;/a&gt;, a German maker also known as &amp;quot;Chaos-Drucker&amp;quot;), we need to first adjust them as needed to fit our needs and then compile them properly (next step!). As an alternative (&lt;strong&gt;English!&lt;/strong&gt;) base to work with, the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.th3dstudio.com/knowledge-base/th3d-unified-firmware/?seq_no=10&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;TH3D firmware&lt;/a&gt; is also available, provided by the Hooglands and team at TH3D.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, let's open your &lt;code&gt;Marlin.ino&lt;/code&gt; with &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.arduino.cc/en/Main/Software&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;arduino&lt;/a&gt; and find the &lt;code&gt;X_MIN_POS&lt;/code&gt; (&lt;code&gt;CTRL&lt;/code&gt;+&lt;code&gt;F&lt;/code&gt; &amp;gt; &lt;code&gt;X_MIN_POS&lt;/code&gt; &amp;gt; Search all sketches).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the configurations we grabbed the sketch file &lt;code&gt;Configuration.h&lt;/code&gt; contains lines 786-789 &lt;em&gt;(might differ)&lt;/em&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;// Travel limits (mm) after homing, corresponding to endstop positions.&#xA;#define X_MIN_POS -10&#xA;#define Y_MIN_POS -15&#xA;#define Z_MIN_POS 0&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Adjust these till the wanted position is achieved - Repetier Host can help here to determine the right position.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Step 3 - Compile&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The hardest step with the Ender3 was to get the code to actually compile, as it uses an &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.technoblogy.com/show?19OV&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;ATmega1284P 16Bit&lt;/a&gt; which isn't supported by Arduino natively. While the &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/MCUdude/MightyCore&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;MightyCore&lt;/a&gt; supports this chip, it doesn't compile with this hardware library. However, Christian did figure out that the &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/Lauszus/Sanguino&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Sanguino&lt;/a&gt; set to an ATmega 1284P 16bit does work. These belong as &lt;em&gt;extracted folders&lt;/em&gt; into the &lt;code&gt;Arduino/hardware&lt;/code&gt; folder, usually in your Documents (if you use Windows) or Home (on mac). Now, we did set &lt;code&gt;Tools&amp;gt;Board:&amp;gt; Sanguino&lt;/code&gt; and &lt;code&gt;Tools&amp;gt;Processor:&amp;gt;ATmega1284 or ATmega1284P (16 MHz)&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It was also mandatory to have the &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/olikraus/U8glib_Arduino&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;U8glib.h for Arduino&lt;/a&gt; installed. To do this, download the zip from github, then in the Arduino software &lt;code&gt;Sketch&amp;gt;Include Library&amp;gt;Add .ZIP Library...&lt;/code&gt; and choose the whole zip repository to auto install.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With these settings we were able to compile the settings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Step 4 - Getting it on the machine&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most people would expect to read about bootloaders and flashing now, and indeed that is an option. But as I had just figured out &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6654/how-to-install-a-hex-firmware&quot;&gt;how to install firmware from .hex&lt;/a&gt; and so I wondered: Can't we make .hex files from our settings? And yes, &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/6658/8884&quot;&gt;Arduino supports this&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, in Arduino IDE press &lt;code&gt;Ctrl&lt;/code&gt;+&lt;code&gt;Alt&lt;/code&gt;+&lt;code&gt;S&lt;/code&gt; (or &lt;code&gt;Sketch &amp;gt; Export Compiled Binary&lt;/code&gt;). This will result in two files:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;code&gt;Marlin.ino.sanguino.hex&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;code&gt;Marlin.ino.with_bootloader.sanguino.hex&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of these two, the &lt;code&gt;Marlin.ino.sanguino.hex&lt;/code&gt; is the interesting one for &amp;quot;direct flashing&amp;quot; via CURA. Use this file with the process starting at Step 2 &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/6655/8884&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; or use one of &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/6656/8884&quot;&gt;Greenonline's solutions&lt;/a&gt; to get the firmware flashed - no bootloader needed!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:29:41.667" LastActivityDate="2018-12-04T03:08:37.333" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6661" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6676" CreationDate="2018-08-13T23:26:30.287" Score="-4" ViewCount="409" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would love to start a small engraving business without having to purchase expensive hardware. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using scrap parts at home, or parts from broken CD players, are there any ways to make a laser engraver at home? My cousin managed to make one of his own from scraps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12637" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-08-16T08:09:09.270" LastActivityDate="2019-06-19T22:36:59.383" Title="How to build a cheap (but safe) laser engraver with spare parts" Tags="|printer-building|laser|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ClosedDate="2018-08-15T11:07:17.373" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6664" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6717" CreationDate="2018-08-14T04:44:35.477" Score="5" ViewCount="15703" Body="&lt;p&gt;I got my Ender 3 a couple weeks ago. Within a couple days of test prints, I was able to get it working pretty well. Prints looked great. However, I installed &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2959991&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;a more permanent solution to my X-Gantry binding issues&lt;/a&gt; and now print quality is down again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/P5yjv.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/P5yjv.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Layer separation issues&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bottom .25&quot; of the calibration part looks absolutely terrible, with hideous layer separation issues, while the upper .75&quot; looks flawless. I have little idea what could be causing this issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/G5lab.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/G5lab.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Macro closeup on layer separation&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only possible failure mode I can think of is that the bed isn't the right distance from the print head, but even fiddling with the knobs doesn't yield any better print quality than the print on the right of the first image. What can I do?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I slice with Cura and can make my profile available if it would be useful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12377" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-09-24T04:50:08.930" LastActivityDate="2019-11-28T11:13:32.553" Title="Strange layer separation issues on Ender 3" Tags="|print-quality|ultimaker-cura|creality-ender-3|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6665" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6664" CreationDate="2018-08-14T07:40:37.720" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well, you have several problems with your print. One that could be affecting your print is the nozzle temperature. The print looks wavy and has a lack of adhesion, so the filament is not flowing properly, causing under extrusion and will provoke a clogged nozzle. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Try to increase the temperature by 5°C and do a small test, don't wait to waste material and try another 2-3°C more. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Try to reduce the printing sped; try reducing the feed rate on your printer to 90% or less. While printing you can reduce the feed rate to see which speed works better at your printing temperature. I prefer to do this first rather than change the temperature; If you notice that your print gets better at lower feed rate &lt;em&gt;then&lt;/em&gt; change your temperature higher to print a higher speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4454" LastEditorUserId="12377" LastEditDate="2018-08-14T17:35:14.107" LastActivityDate="2018-08-14T17:35:14.107" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6667" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6668" CreationDate="2018-08-14T12:21:52.117" Score="9" ViewCount="1222" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently purchased some glow-in-the-dark PLA filament (just &quot;because&quot;). Being new to 3D printing, I didn't realize you shouldn't run this type of filament through a standard brass nozzle and should replace it using a &quot;wear resistant&quot; type nozzle. This is true of carbon fiber type filament as well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My questions are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What types of nozzle material are considered &quot;wear resistant&quot; and are some materials better than others?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Can I use this type of nozzle all the time (ie: are there any downsides for regular use)?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What types of filament should you use a wear resistant nozzle with?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11242" LastActivityDate="2018-08-14T13:51:56.113" Title="Wear resistant nozzles" Tags="|nozzle|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6668" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6667" CreationDate="2018-08-14T12:49:58.923" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;E3D have a &lt;a href=&quot;https://e3d-online.com/blog/2015/09/09/is-carbon-killing-your-nozzle/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;blog post&lt;/a&gt; on the subject of hardened nozzles. The common abrasive materials are carbon fibre, wood impregnated filament (or any other particulate fill), and some pigments. The blog describes that as little as 250g of the more abrasive filaments can wreck a brass nozzle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For wear resistance, different manufacturers will have different options. Stainless steel is a little harder than brass, and hardened steel is a big step forward. If you fancy spending more money, aluminium oxide (i.e. Ruby) &lt;a href=&quot;http://olssonruby.com/faq/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;is an option&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The downside is printability and cost. Specifically thermal conductivity of brass (or copper) is very good when compared to steel. However, this may not be the limiting factor for your printing unless you're running a very large machine. The various materials may also give different friction/wetting performance which can affect jams.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on the printer and the type of hardened nozzle, it probably makes sense to avoid swapping between hardened and standard nozzles most of the time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hardened nozzles cost between 3 and 20 times what you will pay for a branded brass nozzle (and arguably a bag of no-name brass nozzles can be treated as near enough free disposables in comparison).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4927" LastEditorUserId="4927" LastEditDate="2018-08-14T13:51:56.113" LastActivityDate="2018-08-14T13:51:56.113" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6669" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6661" CreationDate="2018-08-14T16:38:39.767" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a printer and a diode laser head which will etch aluminum for under $4k, but you're going to have to manage potentially noxious fumes based on what material you're lasering. It's safe if used safely: the focal distance is 15-20mm from the lens, but all present should wear PPE.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: I work for Hyrel3D.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4922" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2019-06-19T22:36:59.383" LastActivityDate="2019-06-19T22:36:59.383" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6671" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6673" CreationDate="2018-08-14T23:55:20.540" Score="6" ViewCount="8688" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an Anet A8 that I just flashed with the latest Marlin firmware (1.1.9). I'm sending prints to my printer with Ultimaker Cura via OctoPrint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have affixed a PEI surface to my bed that's about 10&amp;nbsp;mm smaller in each direction than the full size of the bed (that is, I lose about 5&amp;nbsp;mm on each side of the bed). This hasn't been a huge problem as usually I account for this myself and just make sure there's lots of room on each side of a print, but having upgraded my firmware, I'd like to take advantage of Marlin's bi-linear bed-levelling. Unfortunately, several of the points it chooses are outside the bounds of my PEI surface and so it's impossible to get a decent setting for those points.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What's the &quot;correct&quot; way to configure Marlin to know that my bed size is actually smaller than it thinks it is? Do I need to additionally adjust settings in Ultimaker Cura and/or OctoPrint?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12654" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-07-28T08:02:12.923" LastActivityDate="2019-07-28T08:11:28.347" Title="Setting custom x/y bed bounds for Anet A8/marlin" Tags="|marlin|anet-a8|firmware|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6673" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6671" CreationDate="2018-08-15T07:13:02.737" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;As you just flashed your own Marlin, you probably have the &lt;code&gt;marlin.ino&lt;/code&gt; and its associated files in the &lt;strong&gt;Arduino IDE&lt;/strong&gt; set for your Processor and board and know how to work with them to some degree. This is &lt;em&gt;just the short version&lt;/em&gt; &lt;strong&gt;where&lt;/strong&gt; to find &lt;strong&gt;what&lt;/strong&gt; you need to change the bed size, if the marlin.ino is based on the &lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://marlinfw.org/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;marlinfw-release&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Changing &amp;quot;home&amp;quot;&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In &lt;code&gt;Configuration.h&lt;/code&gt; there should be a set of lines that reads akin to this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;// Travel limits (mm) after homing, corresponding to endstop positions.&#xA;#define X_MIN_POS 0&#xA;#define Y_MIN_POS 0&#xA;#define Z_MIN_POS 0&#xA;#define X_MAX_POS X_BED_SIZE&#xA;#define Y_MAX_POS Y_BED_SIZE&#xA;#define Z_MAX_POS 200&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Usually it is faster to use &lt;code&gt;Ctrl&lt;/code&gt;+&lt;code&gt;F&lt;/code&gt; and then typing in &lt;code&gt;X_MIN_POS&lt;/code&gt; and adding the hook in front of &lt;em&gt;Search all Sketch Tabs&lt;/em&gt; and then moving through all the finds till the right one pops up. This not only brings you right to the lines you want to alter, but also covers up the bases in case the distribution you work with did put the movement limits into a different location like &lt;code&gt;Configruration_adv.h&lt;/code&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Changing Bed Size&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alter these minimum positions and make sure that the Maximum positions (usually just after them) to fit the maximum of the bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you reduced your bed size, you also might need to change &lt;code&gt;X_BED_SIZE&lt;/code&gt; and &lt;code&gt;Y_BED_SIZE&lt;/code&gt;, which (in the marlin.ino) is in the same &lt;code&gt;Configuration.h&lt;/code&gt; - I found it to preceede the Travel limits:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;// The size of the print bed&#xA;#define X_BED_SIZE 200&#xA;#define Y_BED_SIZE 200&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Adjust these as needed to fit the new sizing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Hint: Getting the Values for Adjusting&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For finding the adjusted values, I have had good experiences using Repetier Host on &lt;em&gt;Manual Control&lt;/em&gt; to move the nozzle (lifted 1mm to prevent any accidents) into the correct XY-position and taking this position as adjustments for the minimum positions. Finding your personal settings is a bit of a trial and error still, &lt;em&gt;so take your time&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Finishing up&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, recompile the marlin.ino (the checkmark in the top left) to check for errors and &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6685/how-to-install-new-firmware-with-a-bootloader&quot;&gt;flash the new firmware&lt;/a&gt; it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:29:41.667" LastActivityDate="2018-08-16T08:29:28.630" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6674" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6618" CreationDate="2018-08-15T08:24:51.673" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The question seems to be built on a false premise, namely that the major extrude/retract errors in a Bowden design come from tube stretch. The PTFE tube is &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; significantly elastic, actually it is reasonably stiff so there is minimal scope for improvement here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A longer tube &lt;em&gt;will&lt;/em&gt; contribute to degraded precision, but slack in the filament/tube gap is roughly as significant as stretch (and filament compression). Constraining the tube path may help marginally (but there is no need to 'bond' the tube). There is not much you can to to reduce the gap between filament and tube, but this will dominate the error for a long tube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The most obvious weak point is the clip used to secure the tube at each end. I saw a review of a recent Prusa design where high quality clips were called out as making a big improvement to securing each end of the tube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4927" LastActivityDate="2018-08-15T08:24:51.673" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6675" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6659" CreationDate="2018-08-15T09:19:52.030" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Default settings for first layer height in Slic3r Prusa Edition print profiles regardless layer height is 0.2 mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you need to improve bed adhesion then try tips from this video &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ShFaJ027pFs&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;3D Prints not sticking anymore? Watch this! 3DP101&lt;/a&gt; by Maker's Muse. It's about using glue stick and spreading it using paper towel and isopropyl alcohol. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are other possibilities how to improve bed adhesion, e.g. &lt;a href=&quot;https://shop.prusa3d.com/en/3d-printer-parts/146-replacement-pei-sheet-for-mk2s-ultem.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Ultem sheet&lt;/a&gt; or other printing surface like &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.buildtak.eu/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;BuildTak&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="75" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-08-18T11:47:44.603" LastActivityDate="2018-08-18T11:47:44.603" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6676" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6661" CreationDate="2018-08-15T09:26:02.430" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you do not have knowledge about the electronics then consider buying a cheap etching machine instead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Build&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Take a look on &lt;a href=&quot;https://hackaday.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://hackaday.com/&lt;/a&gt; and search for laser engravers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have found following articles in few seconds:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://hackaday.com/2013/05/06/dvd-laser-diode-used-to-build-a-laser-engraver/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Hackaday.com: DVD LASER DIODE USED TO BUILD A LASER ENGRAVER&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://hackaday.com/2016/03/14/laser-pcb-exposer-built-from-cd-rom-drives/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Hackaday.com: LASER PCB EXPOSER BUILT FROM CD-ROM DRIVES&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://hackaday.com/2017/10/31/homebuilt-laser-engraver-using-salvaged-parts/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Hackaday.com: HOMEBUILT LASER ENGRAVER USING SALVAGED PARTS&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://hackaday.com/2017/11/27/entry-level-3d-printer-becomes-budget-pcb-machine/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Hackaday.com: ENTRY-LEVEL 3D PRINTER BECOMES BUDGET PCB MACHINE&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Cheap laser engravers&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And this one is about 2018 list of laser cutters/engravers: &lt;a href=&quot;https://all3dp.com/1/best-home-desktop-laser-cutter-engraver-aio-machine/%20It%20lists%20machines%20around%20100$&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;15 Best Laser Cutters, Laser Engravers &amp;amp; AIO Machines of 2018&lt;/a&gt;. It lists machines around 100$&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Meterk Laser Engraver ($125)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;NEJE DK-8-KZ ($70)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;QIILU Mini Laser Engraver ($130)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;SuperCarver K2 ($160)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Safety&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Laser could damage your eyes (imagine laser reflection or if the machine falls from table when it's working). Take a look on &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Laser_safety&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;wikipedia&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The best option is to use &lt;em&gt;acrylic cover&lt;/em&gt; in same color as your laser, so you can observe the etching process and the laser beam is always blocked. For example take a look on orange cover of &lt;a href=&quot;https://formlabs.com/3d-printers/form-2/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Formlabs Form 2&lt;/a&gt; 3d printer (it uses laser for printing).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another protection is to wear &lt;em&gt;laser protection glasses&lt;/em&gt;. Again the glasses must have same color as your laser. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using laser for cutting or engraving means to burn material away. You should have good ventilation in the room.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Buy a &lt;em&gt;smoke detector&lt;/em&gt; if you use cheap electronics with higher power consumption.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="75" LastEditorUserId="75" LastEditDate="2018-08-16T10:10:50.407" LastActivityDate="2018-08-16T10:10:50.407" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6677" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5621" CreationDate="2018-08-15T11:06:09.743" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;One of the thermistor wires had come loose from the crimp ferrules. I re-crimped it and it works fine now. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5113" LastActivityDate="2018-08-15T11:06:09.743" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6678" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4459" CreationDate="2018-08-15T11:19:07.210" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use a &lt;strong&gt;paving block with rubber feet&lt;/strong&gt; underneath it &lt;strong&gt;on the floor&lt;/strong&gt;. It is very effective: The 3D printer is sitting right beside a door, and you can't hear it printing from the other side of the door.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The low-frequency sounds are definitely absorbed by the paving block. What you can hear now are only the hissing sounds, when the extruder glides along the rods.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wouldn't put the paving block on a table, though, or anything elevated, since that will only magnify the lever effect of the table legs and exacerbate vibrations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10684" LastActivityDate="2018-08-15T11:19:07.210" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6679" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4459" CreationDate="2018-08-15T12:23:21.530" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I do know about your budget, but I would suggest to buy a silent 3d printer like &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.prusa3d.com/original-prusa-i3-mk3/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Prusa i3 mk3&lt;/a&gt; which is about $1k. If you decide to tinker your printer instead than take a look on other possibilities:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Trinamic drivers&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most of the noise is created in motors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Definitely switch to Trinamic stepper motor drivers. I have upgraded from Prusa i3 mk2 to mk3 last weekend and the noise reduction is significant, my estimate is 80-90%.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/291oJ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/291oJ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Take a look on this &lt;a href=&quot;https://toms3d.org/2017/12/09/tmc2130-guide/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;awesome blog post and video from Thomas Salanderer about the driver&lt;/a&gt;. Other good post is on &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.instructables.com/id/Upgrading-RAMPS-14-With-TMC2130-Stepper-Drivers/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;instructables&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would not suggest soldering unless you are a skilled hacker.&#xA;Better option is switch to different board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Prusa i3 mk3 is using Einsy Rambo 1.1 for $120: &lt;a href=&quot;https://ultimachine.com/products/einsy-rambo-1-1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://ultimachine.com/products/einsy-rambo-1-1&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;But there you have to switch to 24V Power Supply Unit and you have to also switch to 24V heated bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another solution is to use RAMPS and buy trinamic drivers separate (RAMPS doesn't solder drivers on the board).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additional info about trinamic drivers: &lt;a href=&quot;https://shop.prusa3d.com/forum/hardware-firmware-and-software-help-f64/tmc2130-driver-infos-and-modifications-t15835.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://shop.prusa3d.com/forum/hardware-firmware-and-software-help-f64/tmc2130-driver-infos-and-modifications-t15835.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Pad&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Use a concrete paver as described in this youtube CNC Kitchen channel. It reduces noise by 20dB (not if you use trinamic drivers).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Jndsw.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Jndsw.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.cnckitchen.com/blog/reduce-your-3d-printing-noise-with-a-concrete-paver&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.cnckitchen.com/blog/reduce-your-3d-printing-noise-with-a-concrete-paver&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/y08v6PY_7ak?start=0&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Enclosure&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An enclosure should also help to reduce noise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eMRNN.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eMRNN.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How to build enclosure from Ikea table: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.prusaprinters.org/cheap-simple-3d-printer-enclosure/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.prusaprinters.org/cheap-simple-3d-printer-enclosure/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Dampers&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Dampers help you reduce noise. There are two types of dampers:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XQv5L.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XQv5L.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vtY6Y.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vtY6Y.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Motor damper: &lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/6tL0Rv9UKyU?start=0&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Printer dampers: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2103227&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2103227&lt;/a&gt; (thanks to Sojtin)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Video about silencing the Prusa i3 MK2 &amp;amp; Horrible Vibrations: &lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/OnfYA5QLA84?start=0&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="75" LastEditorUserId="75" LastEditDate="2020-10-20T09:42:57.053" LastActivityDate="2020-10-20T09:42:57.053" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6680" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3265" CreationDate="2018-08-15T12:41:26.483" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I believe the solution is to use more walls in Cura.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a 50mm cylinder with a 20mm hole.  I specified 10 walls in Cura.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This should give extra plastic for the screw to bit into, but not take all day to print!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cItxw.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cItxw.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12491" LastActivityDate="2018-08-15T12:41:26.483" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6681" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4459" CreationDate="2018-08-15T15:55:19.997" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had a similar problem, the neighbour started to complain. I solved the problem by putting scourers under the table where my printer was placed on top of.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ERtj6.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ERtj6.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They are mildly effective, but very cheap. They were 7 cents a piece at my local supermarket.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10659" LastActivityDate="2018-08-15T15:55:19.997" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6682" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6642" CreationDate="2018-08-16T02:05:39.937" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been able to reduce stringing by reducing the nozzle temp in 2°C increments until it goes away.&#xA;You'll also want to increase your retraction settings a bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem is caused by the plastic being too hot and oozing out of the nozzle - it's a bit too runny.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Search Thingiverse for Heat Towers.  You'll need to edit the G-code so that your printer adjusts the nozzle temp at each layer.  That will give you a really good indication of the best temperature for the given material.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keep in mind you'll want to print it for each new brand (and sometimes color) of filament.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12491" LastActivityDate="2018-08-16T02:05:39.937" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6683" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2018-08-16T08:20:40.607" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2018-08-16T08:20:40.607" LastActivityDate="2018-08-16T08:20:40.607" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6684" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2018-08-16T08:20:40.607" Score="0" Body="Lasers of low power can be used as measuring tools in a 3D printer environment, but higher powered ones can be used to engrave materials if mounted as a 3D Printer's tool." OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2018-08-16T11:27:14.100" LastActivityDate="2018-08-16T11:27:14.100" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6685" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6686" CreationDate="2018-08-16T08:25:40.037" Score="4" ViewCount="16289" Body="&lt;p&gt;While uploading &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6654/how-to-install-a-hex-firmware&quot;&gt;.hex firmware directly&lt;/a&gt; onto boards that allow this via CURA, this is not always an option for all machines (for lack of a functioning USB-connectable port for example).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On both my TronXY X1 board (Melzi 2.0 V5 with &lt;code&gt;ATMEGA1284P&lt;/code&gt;) and the Creality Ender 3 (Creality 3D v.1.1.2 with &lt;code&gt;Δ ATMEL  ATMEGA1284P  AU 1726&lt;/code&gt;) I spotted these 6 pins labeled &lt;code&gt;ISP&lt;/code&gt; that are supposed to allow to connect an Arduino or similar to flash firmware. According to the RepRap Wiki, Melzi is a derivative of the &lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/wiki/Melzi&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Sanguinololu&lt;/a&gt; and both are &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/Lauszus/Sanguino&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Sanguino Compatible&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After creating the new firmware in &lt;strong&gt;Arduino IDE&lt;/strong&gt; and making sure it compiles for the correct chip in the board, how can I use an Arduino Uno or other microcontroller to flash the new firmware  &lt;strong&gt;via the ISP&lt;/strong&gt; to my printer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is asking specifically about ATmega based controller boards, using the Arduino toolchain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2019-04-26T07:15:48.557" LastActivityDate="2019-04-26T07:15:48.557" Title="How to install new ATmega firmware via the ISP pins?" Tags="|firmware|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6686" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6685" CreationDate="2018-08-16T09:12:37.667" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Considering AVR based controller boards...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might not need an additional Arduino, to serve as an ISP. It really depends upon the board. There are basically three scenarios:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Controller board which is Arduino based - Arduino Mega 2560 with a RAMPS 1.4 - &lt;em&gt;with&lt;/em&gt; a bootloader&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Controller board which is Arduino based - Arduino Mega 2560 with a RAMPS 1.4 - &lt;em&gt;without&lt;/em&gt; a bootloader&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Controller board which is AVR based board (no separate Arduino board) - as is the case with an Ender-3 and the TronXY board&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; - &lt;em&gt;without&lt;/em&gt; a bootloader&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Option 1 is the easiest, and you simply upload with the USB cable, directly from the Arduino IDE.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Options 2 and 3 is where you would require an In-circuit Serial Programmer (ISP). Such as a USBasp: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.fischl.de/usbasp/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;USBasp - USB programmer for Atmel AVR controllers&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ksElR.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;USBasp&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ksElR.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;USBasp&quot; title=&quot;USBasp&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;or you can use another Arduino, see &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.arduino.cc/en/Tutorial/ArduinoISP&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Arduino as ISP and Arduino Bootloaders&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An ISP device basically converts the USB to TTL signals (along with a serial protocol (JTAG or derivative)) which then connects to the ICSP&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; interface on the controller board:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fnPk8.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;ICSP connector&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fnPk8.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;ICSP connector&quot; title=&quot;ICSP connector&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Scenario 1&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As stated above, you simply connect the board to the PC/Mac using the USB cable and, within the Arduino IDE, you hit &lt;strong&gt;Upload&lt;/strong&gt; - ensuring that you have the correct &lt;strong&gt;Board&lt;/strong&gt; (i.e. Mega2560) and &lt;strong&gt;Port&lt;/strong&gt; selected in the &lt;strong&gt;Tools&lt;/strong&gt; menu.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Scenario 2&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the Mega2560 the pins the MOSI, MISO and SCK are broken out on to are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Arduino / Genuino Board    MOSI            MISO             SCK       Level&#xA;Mega1280 or Mega2560    51 or ICSP-4    50 or ICSP-1    52 or ICSP-3    5V&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To program the Mega2560 using an Uno, connect as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ifLTz.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Uno as ISP programming Mega&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ifLTz.png&quot; alt=&quot;Uno as ISP programming Mega&quot; title=&quot;Uno as ISP programming Mega&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;or using the ISP connector (in this diagram the electrolytic capacitor&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt; is not shown):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gFhfl.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Uno as ISP programming Mega via ICSP connector&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gFhfl.png&quot; alt=&quot;Uno as ISP programming Mega via ICSP connector&quot; title=&quot;Uno as ISP programming Mega via ICSP connector&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Take note of the electrolytic capacitor&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt; on the programming device:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The 10&amp;nbsp;µF electrolytic capacitor connected to RESET and&#xA;  GND of the programming board is needed only for the boards that have&#xA;  an interface between the microcontroller and the computer's USB, like&#xA;  Mega, Uno, Mini, Nano. Boards like Leonardo, Esplora and Micro, with&#xA;  the USB directly managed by the microcontroller, don't need the&#xA;  capacitor. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;or using the Mega's ICSP connector, from &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.gammon.com.au/bootloader&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Atmega bootloader programmer&lt;/a&gt; (see &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.gammon.com.au/images/Arduino/Atmega_Chip_Detector9.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;original image&lt;/a&gt;):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PscDO.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Uno programming a Mega&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PscDO.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Uno programming a Mega&quot; title=&quot;Uno programming a Mega&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note D10 is used, not &lt;code&gt;RESET&lt;/code&gt;&lt;sup&gt;4&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Scenario 3&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, to use an Arduino Uno on your controller board, which is scenario 3 (an AVR based board, but not an Arduino board per se), you would need to connect the Uno to the ICSP of the controller board like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;ICSP     Uno&#xA;&#xA;MOSI     D11&#xA;MISO     D12&#xA;SCK      D13&#xA;GND      GND&#xA;5V       5V&#xA;RESET    D10&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;or, like this, from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.chaos-drucker.de/anleitungen-und-tutorials/creality-ender3-mit-marlin-ausstatten/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Chaos Drucker - CREALITY ENDER3 MIT MARLIN AUSSTATTEN&lt;/a&gt;  (see &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.chaos-drucker.de/wp-content/uploads/2018/04/Schemata-225x300.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;original image&lt;/a&gt;):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;There is an error in the image and the red line should go to &lt;code&gt;D10&lt;/code&gt; and not &lt;code&gt;D9&lt;/code&gt; as shown&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Mq7zN.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Mq7zN.png&quot; alt=&quot;Uno to controller board connections&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note, again, that the &lt;code&gt;RESET&lt;/code&gt; on the Arduino Uno's ISP connector is &lt;strong&gt;not&lt;/strong&gt; used (and Pin 10 is used to connect to the controller's ICSP's &lt;code&gt;RESET&lt;/code&gt; pin instead)&lt;sup&gt;4&lt;/sup&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Configure the Arduino IDE&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then in the Arduino IDE you will need to select the Programmer to be used, in this case &lt;em&gt;Uno as an ISP&lt;/em&gt;, like so:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ywWQ3.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Uno as an ISP&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ywWQ3.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Uno as an ISP&quot; title=&quot;Uno as an ISP&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you have connected correctly, and selected the programmer, then you &lt;em&gt;should&lt;/em&gt; be able to hit compile and upload as usual.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Footnotes&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; Which &lt;em&gt;both&lt;/em&gt; use the &lt;em&gt;same&lt;/em&gt; board - see &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6342/what-voltage-does-the-creality-ender-3-run-at#answer-6521&quot;&gt;this answer&lt;/a&gt; to &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6342/what-voltage-does-the-creality-ender-3-run-at&quot;&gt;What voltage does the Creality Ender-3 run at?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; In case you are wondering, see &lt;a href=&quot;https://arduino.stackexchange.com/questions/19130/whats-the-difference-between-icsp-vs-isp&quot;&gt;What's the difference between ICSP vs ISP?&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The difference between ISP and ICSP is a hyphen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;ISP stands for In-circuit Serial Programming, and ICSP stands for In&#xA;  Circuit Serial Programming.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Any arrangement that allows you to program a microcontroller while it&#xA;  is in a circuit using a serial protocol can be called ISP or ICSP.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See also &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/In-system_programming&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Wikipedia - In-system programming&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt; See &lt;a href=&quot;https://arduino.stackexchange.com/questions/55498/when-using-an-arduino-as-an-isp-is-the-capacitor-required-or-not&quot;&gt;When using an Arduino as an ISP, is the capacitor required or not?&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;4&lt;/sup&gt; Why? From &lt;a href=&quot;https://arduino.stackexchange.com/questions/1003/can-the-arduino-uno-become-an-avr-programmer-and-use-the-icsp-header-to-program&quot;&gt;Can the Arduino Uno become an AVR programmer and use the ICSP header to program the target board&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;First of all, as configured, the RESET pin can not be used as an output pin. In order to use it as an I/O pin, you would have to program the RSTDISBL fuse. But once you do that, as jippie said, it becomes near-impossible to reprogram your Arduino (if you have the socketed through hole variety of the MCU, you could pull it out and put it into a high voltage programmer; in all other cases, it's effectively impossible).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;So in theory, you can use the ICSP header the way you suggest. In practice, it's under almost any conceivable circumstance a terrible idea.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4762" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-08-22T09:28:45.310" LastActivityDate="2018-08-22T09:28:45.310" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6687" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-08-16T14:07:21.580" Score="5" ViewCount="2310" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been printing successfully on my CR-10 for the past year now. I've had issues now and then but have been able to look around the internet and solve them. I've been using some Flashforge white PLA with great results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Example:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JlMqb.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JlMqb.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;The whitePLA I&amp;#39;ve been using so far without much issues&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Last week I got a couple of new rolls of filament, black and orange. SinceI tried printing with them, I've got nothing but jams. The white prints fine, however.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bC6Tt.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bC6Tt.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5M8YN.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5M8YN.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I dug around online and found this was happening to my printer: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-vH_spN5wyw&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-vH_spN5wyw&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So yesterday I opened up my hotend to clean it out and got quite a bit of gunk out:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MbatW.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MbatW.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also changed my nozzle. I printed some with the old white PLA and printed fine. The moment I switched over to the new orange filament, it jammed after a few layers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I ensured my nozzle was tightened and then got to measuring the filament. The older white one is 1.75mm in most places with some at 1.73mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The new ones that I got are pretty inconsistent - the orange one ranging from 1.68mm to 1.72mm; I found very few places where it was actually 1.75mm. The black one averaged 1.72mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I made the change in my slicer but even then the first layer was visibly underextruding and it jammed soon after. I took apart the hotend and cleaned it out. Now, I put the white one back and its back printing fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I go ahead and return the filament?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12682" LastActivityDate="2018-08-17T15:20:39.943" Title="Creality CR-10 Clogs and Underextrusion - Filament at fault?" Tags="|filament|quality|creality-cr-10|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6688" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-08-16T15:00:02.430" Score="4" ViewCount="245" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just bought an MKS gen v1.3, and everything on it works fine except for when I plug in the endstops. My X endstop works perfectly in every endstop outlet, but when I plug in my Z and Y endstops, the entire board loses power. Immediately after I unplug the endstop, the board turns back on. I've had these endstops for a while, so could it just be that the endstops are shot, or could there be something wrong with my board?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm using repetier firmware 0.92, as well as the latest release of repetier host software.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7019" LastEditorUserId="7019" LastEditDate="2018-08-16T16:38:44.330" LastActivityDate="2018-08-16T16:54:14.310" Title="MKS board losing power after endstop installation" Tags="|ramps-1.4|reprap|repetier|arduino-mega-2650|endstop|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6689" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6688" CreationDate="2018-08-16T16:42:34.210" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Have you tried plugging in the plugging the Z and/or Y end stops into the X position? This could tell you if it's actually the end stops or the board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: Also, if the Z and/or Y end stops seem to work just fine in the X position, ensure you have the X position filled and try the other end stops in the Z &amp;amp; Y positions. It may be a case where having multiple positions on the board filled might be causing you an issue. This would point back at the board and not the end stops.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11242" LastEditorUserId="11242" LastEditDate="2018-08-16T16:54:14.310" LastActivityDate="2018-08-16T16:54:14.310" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6690" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6687" CreationDate="2018-08-17T12:15:32.583" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not all filaments are created equal. Even with the very same manufacturer, the addition of colorful pigments can change the needed printing temperature a lot! I have had a white china PLA that was giving ok quality at 200°C, but the same brand's clear PLA only took 195°C to print. My white Kaisertech prints better at the 200°C while orange needs a little more, something about 205°C - this is the same brand and manufacturer mind you. The matte &quot;natural&quot; PLA I have even needs some more heat, 210°C.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a rule of thumb: &lt;strong&gt;Printing temerature is filament dependant.&lt;/strong&gt; Test around (there are temperature tests - use them!) to find the ideal one for each brand and color combo you have.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is also a goood idea to replace the claps on the Bowden tube, if the plugs appear more often.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2018-08-17T13:11:56.277" LastActivityDate="2018-08-17T13:11:56.277" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6691" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6687" CreationDate="2018-08-17T15:20:39.943" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;From attached pictures I can see that some of the printouts are not sticking enough to the bed (that can be a non-leveled bed).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you are printing directly on the glass ensure that the area is clean (no fat or other organic substances - clean with alcohol or another grease remover) or use a PVA glue to get better adhesion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the Z height is to low it can clog the nozzle, if to high then print will not stick.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9730" LastActivityDate="2018-08-17T15:20:39.943" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6692" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5296" CreationDate="2018-08-17T15:33:14.513" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can change your Pi's resolution using &lt;code&gt;raspi-config&lt;/code&gt; or the Raspberry Pi Configuration app. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To use &lt;code&gt;raspi-config&lt;/code&gt;, access Terminal and run &lt;code&gt;raspi-config&lt;/code&gt;. Then navigate to &lt;code&gt;Advanced Options &amp;gt; Resolution&lt;/code&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you'd rather use the GUI, open the Raspberry Pi Configuration app and select Resolution from the resultant dialog. This may help with the rendering issues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12693" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2018-08-17T18:04:08.917" LastActivityDate="2018-08-17T18:04:08.917" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6694" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2018-08-18T09:23:50.177" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2018-08-18T09:23:50.177" LastActivityDate="2018-08-18T09:23:50.177" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6695" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2018-08-18T09:23:50.177" Score="0" Body="Questions about which filament to choose for a certain application belong here." OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2018-08-18T10:50:44.017" LastActivityDate="2018-08-18T10:50:44.017" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6696" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2018-08-18T09:31:25.790" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2018-08-18T09:31:25.790" LastActivityDate="2018-08-18T09:31:25.790" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6697" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2018-08-18T09:31:25.790" Score="0" Body="Use this tag for ancillary devices of a printer. Peripherals are tools or machines that are not integral parts of the print process but rather additions that help. Some examples are spool holders, filament guides, dryboxes or multicolor addons." OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2018-08-18T10:50:39.273" LastActivityDate="2018-08-18T10:50:39.273" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6699" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6659" CreationDate="2018-08-19T07:55:32.800" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The first layer height can be the same as the whole printing model however you can set different sizes and speeds; it is recommended that layer height should be 75&amp;nbsp;% or less than nozzle diameter, this means that for a nozzle of 0.4&amp;nbsp;mm the max height is 0.3&amp;nbsp;mm &lt;em&gt;(if you are a master you can use higher dimensions)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first layer with a height of 0.3&amp;nbsp;mm with a speed of 70&amp;nbsp;mm/s will have less adhesion than printing at 50&amp;nbsp;mm/s. Also the same height and speed of 70&amp;nbsp;mm/s at 210&amp;nbsp;°C will have more adhesion than at 195&amp;nbsp;°C. So printing at 195&amp;nbsp;°C with speed of 50&amp;nbsp;mm/s could have the same adhesion than 70&amp;nbsp;mm/s at 210&amp;nbsp;°C. This depends on the quality of your PLA&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On my prints I have set the prints at 195&amp;nbsp;°C and 55&amp;nbsp;mm/s with a height of 0.20&amp;nbsp;mm, then the whole print uses the same temperature at 85&amp;nbsp;mm/s with 0.25&amp;nbsp;mm of layer height. With other PLA quality I have to set 210&amp;nbsp;°C first layer at 50&amp;nbsp;mm/s, and other layers at 200&amp;nbsp;°C with 70&amp;nbsp;mm/s. &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;So adjustments are based temperature and speed once you have determined the smoothness of your prints.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4454" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-01-29T05:35:17.827" LastActivityDate="2020-01-29T05:35:17.827" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6700" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="962" CreationDate="2018-08-19T08:41:28.657" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Beides a corrupt SD card that stores worng bits, leading to absurd commands, it's also possible that ithers parts in the Creatin of the file are compromised:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This can for example happen if the card is removed during writing - but in this case it should be mostly an incomplete file on importing into an interpreter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More a random distribution of bad commands would appear if the writing process in itself is faulty, for example if the SD Port is defect or the adapter hast a error. Another way that writing can fail is if the drivers for the SD card adapter/port are corrupted. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To detect a bad file or corrupted card is possible by re-importing the G-Code into a slicer (for example CURA allows this) and look at the tool paths. If any port does this with any card, software is to blame: See if it persists after a driver update (rare!) and a reinstall of the slicer. If it fails in one port but works in a different the port or adapter might bei at fault and might need replacement. If it is endemic to one card, this one is corrupt and to be thrown out. If it is endemic to a single file, overwrite it with a new one - sometimes writing fails for reasons that are almost impossible to understand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the file&amp;amp;card are fine but read wrongly at the printer, then the card reader in the printer or the board are to blame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2018-08-19T08:52:48.047" LastActivityDate="2018-08-19T08:52:48.047" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6701" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6619" CreationDate="2018-08-20T04:18:25.633" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Thermal expansion is opening a connection somewhere. It might not be one of your solderings, but if you shorted the board bad enough to fry pins, it could have cooked something somewhere else, and putting current through it is heating up the spot enough to break the connection. Either somewhere else in/on the board, or inside of the IC chip itself. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12706" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-08-20T06:51:19.647" LastActivityDate="2018-08-20T06:51:19.647" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6702" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5756" CreationDate="2018-08-20T04:41:49.690" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;So if the original manufacturer still exists, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.creaform3d.com/en/customer-support/legacy-products/exascan-scanner&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;(which they appear to, and even list your scanner under 'legacy' products)&lt;/a&gt; your best chance of getting it working is going to be to contact them directly. Using proprietary hardware WITHOUT the associated proprietary software can range from merely tedious but possible, to outright impossible, depending on the specific company. Oftentimes with tech products like this, the business model isn't about the product itself, but about the license fees for the software to use it. That they can charge yearly for. It's possible that the raw data is just a stereo camera file with extensions renamed, and equally possible that the firmware in the scanner will do some sort of check for valid license before it will even start scanning, they don't really have much info on their legacy products on their page&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12706" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-08-20T06:53:02.960" LastActivityDate="2018-08-20T06:53:02.960" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6703" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6659" CreationDate="2018-08-20T05:14:17.363" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I made more negative experience for 0.4 mm nozzle and 0.2 mm layer but 0.28 mm initial layer. Change it back to 0.2 mm solves all adhesion problems for me. (Tested on Anet A8 and Ultimaker3)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9575" LastActivityDate="2018-08-20T05:14:17.363" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6704" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5093" CreationDate="2018-08-20T09:16:32.103" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It was a while back I created this post, since then I've have numerous problems / learning curves and now I'm very pleased to say I have a printer that prints perfectly and is set-up correctly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I must say that the support from QidiTech is first class and during my journey I was sent a new extruder assembly, new extruders and also new print matts, all completely free and covered by the warranty.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have now printed numerous models successfully.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1093" LastActivityDate="2018-08-20T09:16:32.103" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6705" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5756" CreationDate="2018-08-20T20:57:36.867" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.creaform3d.com/en/customer-support/legacy-products/exascan-scanner&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Creaform EXAscan&lt;/a&gt; is according to the manufacturer a laser based machine. This means that it determines data points and their positions by some triangonometry done with a laser, 32.000 times a second, resulting in very high density point clouds. This demands a powerful program to work with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At some point, your company used &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.directdimensions.com/port_featuredprojects.php?fileName=fp_rapidform&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Rapidform&lt;/a&gt;, which costs a wooping 10 to 30 grand for a license. Other software in this niece are - &lt;a href=&quot;https://forum.solidworks.com/thread/41681&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;according to a solidworks thread&lt;/a&gt; - &lt;a href=&quot;https://de.3dsystems.com/software&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Geomagic&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.innovmetric.com/en/products/polyworks-inspector&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;PolyWorks&lt;/a&gt;. The gist of the thread seems to be that these &quot;big 3&quot; were the best ones at the market in 2011. However I have no idea if they work together with the given hardware or what the later two cost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastActivityDate="2018-08-20T20:57:36.867" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6706" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6709" CreationDate="2018-08-21T08:19:49.693" Score="5" ViewCount="1248" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most tutorials ask you to change the printer settings using the &lt;code&gt;The command M92 E420 will set the new value which can be saved to memory (so that it is available after a printer power off/on cycle) using M500.&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I just want to modify the Extrusion Multiplier in Slic3r's settings. It's default at for each filament, and I'd like to modify this by adding a profile for each roll I have after calibration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5kIPm.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5kIPm.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What's the best way to do this? If I measure extruding 100mm and checking how much is left, what is the formula used to get the new EM value?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10466" LastActivityDate="2018-08-21T20:04:08.910" Title="How can you calibrate extrusion multiplier value in Slic3r WITHOUT changing printer settings in memory?" Tags="|prusa-i3|calibration|extrusion|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6708" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5686" CreationDate="2018-08-21T11:23:44.893" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have the TronXY X1, which uses the same extruder and firmware design as the TronXY X5. The clicking does not come from Voltage, but most likely a wrong set up of steps/mm or a lightly clogged nozzle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Quick and dirty steps/mm&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Start a print that you know clicks.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;wait for the clicking starts (it comes from the extruder pushing against resistance and jumping back a step)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Go into &lt;code&gt;Configuration &amp;gt; Extruder &amp;gt; Steps/MM&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;alter it down a little, listen if the constant clickig stops, alter again if needed.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, you need to make sure not to get into underextrusion doing this &quot;on the go&quot; fixing, and you really should calibrate your extruder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Proper calibration&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To calibrate your extruder, you could follow Thomas &quot;Tom&quot; Sanladerer &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YUPfBJz3I6Y&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;calibration video&lt;/a&gt; or this rundown:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Move the printhead to a position where it can extrude freely.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;heat up your hotend&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;load the filament (or have one loaded)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;take a filament spool and make small marks on it an increment from the extruder's intake - for example with a CD marker. Tom uses 100mm (&lt;strong&gt;Ep&lt;/strong&gt; for Extruded planned) for the calibration and adds 50mm to compensate for overextrusion, so places the mark at 150mm (&lt;strong&gt;L&lt;/strong&gt; for length), allowing to calculate a compensation into both directions.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;extrude 100mm of filament - it is advisable to directly send the G-code via a program here to use &lt;code&gt;G92E0&lt;/code&gt; to 0 the extruder and &lt;code&gt;G1E100F90&lt;/code&gt; for the extrusion&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Measure the distance of your line to the extruder. Let's call this value &lt;strong&gt;R&lt;/strong&gt;, for &quot;Result position&quot;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Now, we calculate Et (extruded truely): &lt;strong&gt;L-R=Et&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, we have a length to compensate for. But what value we adjust? Steps/mm of course!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Either go into &lt;code&gt;Configuration &amp;gt; Extruder &amp;gt; Steps/MM&lt;/code&gt; or send &lt;code&gt;M503&lt;/code&gt; to get the steps/mm from the configuration&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;lets call this value &lt;strong&gt;S&lt;/strong&gt; for Steps/mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, let's calculate the Sa, &quot;Steps/mm adjusted&quot;:&#xA;* &lt;strong&gt;S*Ep/Et=Sa&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, let's get it into the machine!&#xA;* Go into &lt;code&gt;Configuration &amp;gt; Extruder &amp;gt; Steps/MM&lt;/code&gt; and adjust manually&#xA; * make sure to save into EEPROM&#xA;* alternatively, send &lt;code&gt;M92E&lt;/code&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Sa&lt;/strong&gt; , replacing Sa with your calculated value &#xA; * Then, send &lt;code&gt;M500&lt;/code&gt; to store the value in the EEPROM&#xA;* third alternative: change the firmware configuration and reupload.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastActivityDate="2018-08-21T11:23:44.893" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6709" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6706" CreationDate="2018-08-21T20:04:08.910" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Divide the amount overextruded by the desired amount. If you wanted 100mm but got 101mm, that's 1mm extra, or 1% over. Use an extrusion multiplier of 0.99 (1% under) to compensate - AND THEN DO ANOTHER TEST to confirm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This modifier will be used by Slic3r to generate E values in your gcode without flashing anything. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I recommend saving this recipe with an intuitive name, like &lt;em&gt;Acme Green PLA.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4922" LastActivityDate="2018-08-21T20:04:08.910" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6710" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6016" CreationDate="2018-08-22T03:30:47.157" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Calibration, the part everyone fears. It is actually not that hard. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Calibration on any printer is difficult, but especially so on deltas, as there construction is more complex than a cartesian printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Print beds are &lt;em&gt;rarely&lt;/em&gt; flat (maybe in 1% of cases they are flat), and are usually either convex or concave.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Have you manually calibrated the printer (at both the center and the edges), such that you can just about get a sheet of paper between the print bed and the hotend nozzle, at z = 0? This last check ensures that the first printed layer of extruded filament is actually touching and &quot;presses on&quot; to the print bed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I seriously recommend that you watch this video &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QuEhQU8vGZk&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;#18:Calibration&lt;/a&gt; for a great explanation on the use of the paper. This video is for a Delta printer, a Kossel XL (although the Kossel Mini is also covered) and it clearly demonstrates the height that the zeroed print head should be at, and how to check using a sheet paper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is an hour long tutorial video, by Tom of BuildA3DPrinter.eu, and it shows you step-by-step how to calibrate the printer, and also how to deal with deformed beds (concave/convex). It uses:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Arduino IDE&lt;/strong&gt;, and;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Pronterface&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and performs the calibration by adjusting, in the firmware:&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;code&gt;MANUAL_HOME_Z_POS&lt;/code&gt;, and;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;code&gt;DELTA_SMOOTH_ROD_OFFSET&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a run down of the video's contents:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QuEhQU8vGZk&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;0:00&lt;/a&gt; Intro: The perfect first layer can be obtained, either with/without a probe (the printer is, arguably, better without probe) This tutorial is &lt;em&gt;without&lt;/em&gt; the probe. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QuEhQU8vGZk&amp;amp;t=55&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;0:55&lt;/a&gt; Arduino software loaded with Marlin firmware source, looking at the file &lt;code&gt;configuration.h&lt;/code&gt; and in particular, the line &lt;code&gt;#define MANUAL_HOME_Z_POS&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QuEhQU8vGZk&amp;amp;t=170&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;2:30&lt;/a&gt; - Ensure that the Pronterface USB port is disconnected as otherwise this will inhibit the Arduino IDE from connecting to the printer.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QuEhQU8vGZk&amp;amp;t=200&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;3:20&lt;/a&gt; - Initial test - Gap at the center of the bed &#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Connect with Pronterface and use the following G-code commands&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;code&gt;G28&lt;/code&gt; Home the printer head&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;code&gt;G1 Z10&lt;/code&gt; Bring the head down...&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;code&gt;G1 Z5&lt;/code&gt; a bit more...&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;code&gt;G1 Z4&lt;/code&gt; a bit more...&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;code&gt;G1 Z3&lt;/code&gt; a bit more...&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;code&gt;G1 Z2&lt;/code&gt; a bit more...&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;code&gt;G1 Z1&lt;/code&gt; and if the head hits bed then this is too close&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;code&gt;G1 Z2&lt;/code&gt; raise the head again&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Paper thickness is 100 microns, place under the head&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;code&gt;G1 Z1.5&lt;/code&gt; lower the head again, but no by so much as before&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Slide the paper between head and bed. The paper should move freely, but with some friction felt (you should be able to hear the head lightly rubbing against the paper)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QuEhQU8vGZk&amp;amp;t=431&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;7:11&lt;/a&gt; - Deduction of actual distance from print bed is 1.5 mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QuEhQU8vGZk&amp;amp;t=450&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;7:30&lt;/a&gt; Return to firmware, and finely tune &lt;code&gt;MANUAL_HOME_Z_POS&lt;/code&gt; in the Arduino IDE, disconnecting Pronterface again and upload.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QuEhQU8vGZk&amp;amp;t=490&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;8:10&lt;/a&gt; - Return to printer &#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Connect with Pronterface, again, and use the following G-code commands&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;code&gt;G28&lt;/code&gt; Home&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;code&gt;G1 Z5 F5000&lt;/code&gt; Move head down rapidly&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;code&gt;G1 Z2&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;code&gt;G1 Z1&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;code&gt;G1 Z0&lt;/code&gt; and the head comes to a rest at the correct distance from the bed&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Retest with the paper&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QuEhQU8vGZk&amp;amp;t=570&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;9:30&lt;/a&gt; Final test&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;code&gt;G28&lt;/code&gt; Home&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;code&gt;G1 Z0&lt;/code&gt; Go from home straight down to the bottom&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QuEhQU8vGZk&amp;amp;t=602&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;10:02&lt;/a&gt; - Further calibration&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;code&gt;G1 Z0.2&lt;/code&gt; Raise head ever so slightly to give us some room&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In Pronterface - Move the head horizontally&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;code&gt;G1 X50&lt;/code&gt; - Moves head 50 mm to the right&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;In this case&lt;/em&gt;, if there is a larger gap between the head and the bed. This means that the bed is curved, and &lt;strong&gt;convex&lt;/strong&gt;. If the gap was smaller, or the head hits the bed, then the bed is &lt;strong&gt;concave&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QuEhQU8vGZk&amp;amp;t=700&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;11:40&lt;/a&gt; - Diagram of convex and concave print beds&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QuEhQU8vGZk&amp;amp;t=730&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;12:10&lt;/a&gt; - Endstops&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;code&gt;G1 X-40&lt;/code&gt; Moves the head to the left (of center) and the head is now &lt;em&gt;further&lt;/em&gt; away from the bed than in the middle. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QuEhQU8vGZk&amp;amp;t=800&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;13:20&lt;/a&gt; - This means that the endstops are not correctly positioned. So, before tackling the concave/convex issue, it is first necessary to adjust the endstops, for each tower.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QuEhQU8vGZk&amp;amp;t=817&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;13:37&lt;/a&gt; - Tackling the &lt;em&gt;tower&lt;/em&gt; positions individually&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;code&gt;G1 Z10&lt;/code&gt; For safety reasons, leave a margin of 1 cm.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QuEhQU8vGZk&amp;amp;t=848&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;14:08&lt;/a&gt; - Calibrating the X tower (left tower). &lt;strong&gt;Note&lt;/strong&gt;: The commands will depend on whether you have the Kossel or the Mini.&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Printer moves in three axes: &#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;X: parallel (to the front);&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Y: perpendicular (to the front);&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Z: height (not of interest at this point).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;X tower is not in either of these axes &lt;em&gt;exactly&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;code&gt;G1 X-100&lt;/code&gt; Moves the head to the side but 6 cm away from the X tower&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;code&gt;G1 X-100 Y-60&lt;/code&gt; Positions the head next to the tower correctly&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;code&gt;G1 Z5&lt;/code&gt; - Lower the head bit by bit&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;code&gt;G1 Z2&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;code&gt;G1 Z1&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;code&gt;G1 Z0&lt;/code&gt; and the head is still 1 mm too high&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QuEhQU8vGZk&amp;amp;t=1010&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;16:50&lt;/a&gt; Endstop needs to be adjusted by 1 mm &lt;em&gt;lower&lt;/em&gt;. There are two ways of doing this:&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lower the endstop itself - good for large changes&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Adjust the screw - good for smaller adjustments. Turn it anti-clockwise, and raise the screw by 1 mm.&#xA;-&lt;code&gt;G28&lt;/code&gt; Home&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;code&gt;G1 Z10&lt;/code&gt; Bring head down 1 cm above bed&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Move to the tower:&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;XL: &lt;code&gt;G1 X-100 Y-60&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mini &lt;code&gt;G1 X-60 Y-35&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;code&gt;G1 Z2&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;code&gt;G1 Z1&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;code&gt;G1 Z0&lt;/code&gt; Head hits the bed&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;code&gt;G1 Z0.2&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;So the end stop needs to be &lt;em&gt;raised&lt;/em&gt; by 0.2 mm, by re-adjusting the screw (turning it clockwise).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Now home it the head, &lt;code&gt;G28&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;And bring it down &lt;code&gt;G1 X-100 Y-60 Z0&lt;/code&gt; and it should not hit the glass and the paper should slide underneath&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QuEhQU8vGZk&amp;amp;t=1260&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;21:00&lt;/a&gt; Minor re-adjustment and fine tuning so that the paper slides without the need a too much force.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QuEhQU8vGZk&amp;amp;t=1310&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;21:50&lt;/a&gt; Repeat for each tower&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QuEhQU8vGZk&amp;amp;t=1335&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;22:15&lt;/a&gt; Y Tower (right tower)&#xA;-&lt;code&gt;G28&lt;/code&gt; Home&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;code&gt;G1 Z10&lt;/code&gt; Bring head down 1 cm above bed&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Move to the tower:&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;XL: &lt;code&gt;G1 X100 Y-60&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mini &lt;code&gt;G1 X60 Y-35&lt;/code&gt; &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Repeat the above process - remember to test with &lt;code&gt;G28&lt;/code&gt; and &lt;code&gt;G1 X100 Y-60 Z1&lt;/code&gt; for safety, and &lt;em&gt;then&lt;/em&gt; adjust the Z command&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;This is an iterative process&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QuEhQU8vGZk&amp;amp;t=1684&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;28:04&lt;/a&gt; - Z Tower (rear tower)&#xA;-&lt;code&gt;G28&lt;/code&gt; Home&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;code&gt;G1 Z10&lt;/code&gt; Bring head down 1 cm above bed&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Move to the tower:&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;XL: &lt;code&gt;G1 X0 Y120&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mini &lt;code&gt;G1 X0 Y70&lt;/code&gt; &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Repeat above process&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QuEhQU8vGZk&amp;amp;t=1814&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;30:14&lt;/a&gt; Re-check! each position (center, X, Y and Z towers)&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;code&gt;G28&lt;/code&gt; Home&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;code&gt;G1 X0 Y120 Z0&lt;/code&gt; Check Z tower &amp;amp; drop head (head should not touch the bed)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;code&gt;G1 Z10&lt;/code&gt; Raise head (see below)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;code&gt;G1 X-100 Y-60&lt;/code&gt; Move to X tower&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;code&gt;G1 Z0&lt;/code&gt; Drop head (head should not touch the bed)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;code&gt;G1 Z10&lt;/code&gt; Raise head (see below)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;code&gt;G1 X100 Y-60&lt;/code&gt;  Move to Y tower&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;code&gt;G1 Z0&lt;/code&gt; Drop head (head should not touch the bed)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Calibration of the endstops is now complete&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QuEhQU8vGZk&amp;amp;t=1890&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;31:30&lt;/a&gt; Why the &lt;code&gt;Z10&lt;/code&gt;?&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;code&gt;G1 Z10&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;code&gt;G1 X0 Y0&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The first calibration was the center point, but now the endstops have changed and as the bed is either convex or concave, we therefore raised the head by 1 cm, using the &lt;code&gt;Z10&lt;/code&gt;, to avoid hitting the bed in the center. Now test it&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;code&gt;G1 Z2&lt;/code&gt; Lower head slightly&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;code&gt;G1 Z1&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;code&gt;G1 Z0&lt;/code&gt; If the bed is concave then the head is still too high! Conversely, if the bed is convex the the head will hit the bed.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QuEhQU8vGZk&amp;amp;t=1960&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;32:40&lt;/a&gt; Adjusting the &lt;code&gt;DELTA_SMOOTH_ROD_OFFSET&lt;/code&gt; in &lt;code&gt;configuration.h&lt;/code&gt; - alter the physical parameter of the printer:&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Convex: Increasing &lt;code&gt;DELTA_SMOOTH_ROD_OFFSET&lt;/code&gt; lowers the hotend in the center&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Concave: Decreasing &lt;code&gt;DELTA_SMOOTH_ROD_OFFSET&lt;/code&gt; raises the hotend in the center&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Adjust the setting in the Arduino IDE and recompile and upload (ensure that Pronterface is disconnected)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QuEhQU8vGZk&amp;amp;t=2107&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;35:07&lt;/a&gt; Testing the new &lt;code&gt;DELTA_SMOOTH_ROD_OFFSET&lt;/code&gt; setting - again in Pronterface:&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;code&gt;G28&lt;/code&gt; - As the firmware has changed, we must re-home.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;code&gt;G1 X0 Y0 Z0&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You will notice the the center point &lt;em&gt;has not changed&lt;/em&gt;! It is the same. However if you go to the tower positions you will see that the (previously) perfect gap &lt;em&gt;has&lt;/em&gt; changed. This is because by changing the &lt;code&gt;DELTA_SMOOTH_ROD_OFFSET&lt;/code&gt; the &lt;em&gt;center stays in the same place but the edges change instead&lt;/em&gt;. So, for the convex bed, we have &lt;em&gt;virtually&lt;/em&gt; bent the surface, without moving the center point down, and moved the rim up (or, for a concave bed, down - depending upon the direction of the adjustment), thereby flattening the bed.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QuEhQU8vGZk&amp;amp;t=2230&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;37:10&lt;/a&gt; Demonstration of adjustment&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QuEhQU8vGZk&amp;amp;t=2271&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;37:51&lt;/a&gt; Adjusting the height&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Return to the firmware and change, again, the &lt;code&gt;#define MANUAL_HOME_Z_POS&lt;/code&gt; line that we changed at the beginning, adjusting it by the amount that the head is from the center point. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Disconnect Pronterface and upload the new adjusted firmware. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Then reconnect Pronterface, and Home (&lt;code&gt;G28&lt;/code&gt;) and drop to zero (&lt;code&gt;G1 Z0&lt;/code&gt;). &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The head may still a little &lt;em&gt;too high&lt;/em&gt;. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Then move to the tower, and the head may be &lt;em&gt;too close&lt;/em&gt; to the bed, without any gap. This means that the bed is still convex and further adjustment is required of the &lt;code&gt;DELTA_SMOOTH_ROD_OFFSET&lt;/code&gt; and then, obviously, the &lt;code&gt;MANUAL_HOME_Z_POS&lt;/code&gt;. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Again, this is a bit of an iterative process. Don't forget to home after any firmware updates.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Finally once the bed is flat (i.e. it has been virtually flattened in the software) and the gap between the head and the bed is the same at the center and the towers, then adjust &lt;code&gt;MANUAL_HOME_Z_POS&lt;/code&gt; (an adjustment of 0.05 or less may be required) to get the paper test just perfect.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QuEhQU8vGZk&amp;amp;t=2675&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;44:35&lt;/a&gt; Check each tower (screw adjustment, of the endstops, may be required). As the bed has been flattened, mechanical sub 0.1 mm adjustments may be required. &lt;strong&gt;Note&lt;/strong&gt; that the firmware &lt;em&gt;does not&lt;/em&gt; need to be re-uploaded, when making mechanical changes - although the head will always need to be re-homed (&lt;code&gt;G28&lt;/code&gt;) after each change.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The head should now be at the correct height.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QuEhQU8vGZk&amp;amp;t=2834&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;47:14&lt;/a&gt; - Extruder Calibration&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4762" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-08-31T20:42:03.650" LastActivityDate="2018-08-31T20:42:03.650" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6711" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-08-22T13:27:31.323" Score="7" ViewCount="2629" Body="&lt;p&gt;Has anyone tried the steel-reinforced polyurethane timing belts? If so, how do they compare to the rubber ones?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12449" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2019-12-08T10:21:50.930" LastActivityDate="2022-05-05T22:48:51.487" Title="Polyurethane-and-steel timing belts?" Tags="|maintenance|belt|linear-motion|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6712" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6711" CreationDate="2018-08-22T13:50:51.387" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I do not believe the standard rubber/plastic belts have any significant stretching over time, nor do they stretch under drive motor force during acceleration (and in any case, extrusion takes place mostly under steady-velocity conditions).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While I suppose it's possible a steel-reinforced belt might have a longer lifetime, replacing a belt is quick and cheap, so why bother?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;[incorporating comments]&#xA;My suspicion is that standard belts, e.g., as supplied with Prusa-clone kits will outlive us mere mortals. They can move an entire print bed+heater, so a larger print head is not an issue.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The usual problem with any belt material is ensuring there's no significant slack (which leads to backlash/hysteresis), and changing the material won't help or hurt tensioning control systems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2191" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-02-28T11:31:55.020" LastActivityDate="2021-02-28T11:31:55.020" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6713" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6711" CreationDate="2018-08-22T20:07:24.473" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Belts come in several formulations.  This &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.mcmaster.com/#belts/=1e9qsqj&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;page&lt;/a&gt; from McMaster-Carr lists several types of belts.  The main materials (rubbers) are Neoprene and urethane, with fiberglass, Kevlar, and steel reinforcement.  I would suggest spending some time looking at these, comparing the specs, and basing your choice on the needs of your application.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I used 1/4&quot; wide MXL series cut-to-length in my machine.  I have yet to see a wear or stretch problem and haven't yet done the high-speed photography to look for dynamic stretch.  IMO, I have a bigger problem with the length of belt resonating like a guitar string than I do with the stretch of the belt.  The compliance needed for resonance can come not only from the belt but also from the mechanical system it is mounted to.  In some cases, a slightly stretchy belt could dampen oscillations that would otherwise result from impulse forces being coupled into the printer frame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2082" LastActivityDate="2018-08-22T20:07:24.473" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6714" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6711" CreationDate="2018-08-22T23:36:53.043" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's a question of &lt;strong&gt;what you want to use the belt for.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All Belts are subject to stress as they run around the motor and idlers and gears and bend. They will get eaten as they are subject to friction against parts, they will stretch as they are subject to tension. All this applies some sort of stress or another on the belt. Anything that is subject to stress wears. And as it wears, it will fail. The question is just: &lt;strong&gt;What is your life expectancy?&lt;/strong&gt; The lifetime expectancy is again dependant on how the belt is used, so usage dictates lifetime of the belt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Each belt type has an application it is designed for. A bending radius that is to be kept at, a gear it is to be used with, a load it is expected to move, a tension it is expected to uphold, and a lifetime it is expected to serve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's take a short look at some rough ideas what&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;a soft rubber belt without additions&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is usually a bad choice for printers, but can occasionally be in very cheap kits. This kind of belt &lt;em&gt;has&lt;/em&gt; applications. It is for really low loads, it can work tight bends for a long time and provides superb self-tensioning with just a very short tensioning device. On the other side, most rubbers don't take heat well, stretches a lot, wear fast and can only move a light load. If it rubs against a standing object, it squeaks horribly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;a medium hard, somewhat elastic belt reinforced with fibers&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The standard belt we often get with printer kits. the fibers lessen the material's stretching ability while offering still some self-tensioning (depending on the fibers). These properties allow to move medium loads yet harder material demands slightly larger bend diameters (not &lt;em&gt;too&lt;/em&gt; much, but measurable!). When the piece gets friction against a standing surface the sound will be not that horrible, but the harder rubber might start to shave off, break teeth and destroy the belt after some time. The typical reinforcing is done with cloth, usually cotton, so there are some limits to how much they can take.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;reinforcing with aramid fibers&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some fibers are better than others for our applications because of how they stretch and reinforce it. Aramid fibers, for example, are better than cloth. Some &lt;em&gt;consider&lt;/em&gt; them as impossible to wear out with the tension in 3D Printing applications alone, but that is not entirely the case. They still stretch under larger loads or on longer lengths enough that it can be a problem (or become one). They also can still be shredded with friction (and heat). For a professional machine, the expected lifetime is quite nice. They are though, but only as good as the rubber used and if properly installed. There are also generally two types: long fibers and short fibers. Long fibers have a somewhat even stretching behavior, while short fibers have totally different stretching behavior. The latter type is looked at in scholarly articles like &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S0142941819307160&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Yin, Zhou, Lou et al.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;a hard belt reinforced with fibers&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's take... Uhm... a toothed belt from a car. I believe some of these are aramid-reinforced, old ones are on cloth cores, most modern ones I know are steel reinforced. It is somewhat hard. By design, it is made to withstand a strong tension at high speeds. It needs somewhat big bending radii for the hard rubber, but that is easily given by the gears and the large teeth don't break easily. Over the lifetime it will slowly stretch due to the temperature it will encounter, till at some point it gets too loose or looses too many teeth as the parameters don't match up with the teeth anymore and they get ground away. It is made to deliver high torque and could move - if something similar was used on a printer-like machine (like a large CNC), a heavy load for a long time, but the machine needs to be made accordingly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;steel reinforced belt&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Steel is going stiffer. Steel reinforcements usually get the stretching parameter to a bare minimum at the cost of increasing their minimum bend and added weight. They can be used to move very heavy loads without the belt starting to slack as it simply can't stretch to give slack on the underside of the belt loop when forces are applied. Steel belts are pretty much Heavy Duty. If you can work with the bending radii belonging to them (as said, usually a little bigger than a similar fiber-reinforced one), you could make use of these properties, for example in a CNC Router with a full spindle or when moving very heavy tool heads.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;carbonfiber reinforced&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And then there is the super heavy-duty carbon fiber. One can barely stretch it (steel is less stretchy), making these belts super tough in the stretching compartment and granting an extremely long life under most conditions. In comparison to steel, they can work much tighter radii. Usually, they are coupled with urethanes to get a high wear resistance against abrasion. The biggest downside: their price.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Belt Materials&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Silicone&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Silicone is soft but high temperature resistant but dislikes abrasive forces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Uretane&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Urethanes are not the best to handle the heat, but they can handle abrasive forces. They also don't create dust in the same way as other rubbers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Neoprene&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The most interesting feature of neoprene belts is their reduced noise under work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:29:41.667" LastActivityDate="2019-09-24T13:53:49.187" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6715" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6720" CreationDate="2018-08-23T02:06:23.387" Score="2" ViewCount="1243" Body="&lt;p&gt;So apparently the wiring in my home is... questionable. Very rarely, plugging or unplugging things will cause a power dip. This is almost always the result of turning on a fan or something, is only for a moment before coming back, but its long enough to cause my printer to reset. I want to add a backup battery supply using either the 12v cell pulled out of an old apc ups (before the suggestion of just plugging it into that... I did, somethings fried in it and it will ALSO power cycle everything connected to it every few hours) or an old car battery. Is there any reason I shouldn't use this circuit, which was originally intended for amateur radio equipment? &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Jd7Sp.gif&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Jd7Sp.gif&quot; alt=&quot;battery backup circuit&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also is there anything else i should be considering?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12706" LastEditorUserId="4927" LastEditDate="2018-08-23T10:25:49.980" LastActivityDate="2018-08-23T10:29:47.630" Title="Adding a battery backup power supply" Tags="|diy-3d-printer|printer-building|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6716" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6721" CreationDate="2018-08-23T06:02:36.050" Score="16" ViewCount="83527" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an Ender 3 which I primarily use for printing with PLA. I haven't branched out to other materials yet. :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've done &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinthq.com/desktop-3d-printer-safety/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;some research into PLA fumes and airborne particulates&lt;/a&gt; which seemed to mention that PLA is mostly safe, but ABS is rather dangerous to print without proper ventilation. However, I understand that there isn't much research on the topic and that there haven't been many studies.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have been keeping my printer in my bedroom, far isolated from flammable materials, which I sometimes leave on to print while I'm asleep. Should I be concerned with my health safety with respect to airborne particulates emitted by printing with PLA?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Other questions ask about ABS, but here, I'm asking specifically about PLA.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12377" LastEditorUserId="12377" LastEditDate="2018-08-23T15:49:00.847" LastActivityDate="2022-01-12T23:01:08.990" Title="Serious safety concerns with living in same room as PLA 3D Printer?" Tags="|pla|safety|health|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6717" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6664" CreationDate="2018-08-23T06:12:53.370" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The answer now seems brain-dead obvious now. &lt;em&gt;Hindsight is 20/20, amirite?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had a decent filament clog in the extruder past the end of the Bowden tube. This was resolved by sticking a &lt;a href=&quot;https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B078HXTLX8&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;nozzle cleaner rod&lt;/a&gt; up and down the filament path from the top of the extruder block several times and clearing the filament jam from the bottom of the Bowden tube. The printer works flawlessly now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12377" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-09-24T04:51:16.003" LastActivityDate="2019-09-24T04:51:16.003" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6718" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6715" CreationDate="2018-08-23T09:03:46.023" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This circuit is correct as it does the job (provides a charge and switch-over when needed). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only drawback could be that you need to ensure that the battery is sealed as during the charging process the electlorit will slowly evaporate and decrease battery capacity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am personally using a UPC as that gives me more options to power-up more stuff including 240V heater and it has a self-test built-in (it is APC1500VA).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9730" LastActivityDate="2018-08-23T09:03:46.023" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6720" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6715" CreationDate="2018-08-23T10:24:01.070" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a couple of points to consider with this question. First, you will need to make sure the PSU is correctly adjusted to the float charge voltage of the 12V battery. SLA should be safe to float charge, but over voltage will damage it over time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One alternative solution (since powering the heaters will limit your run time) is to detect power failure, cut the heaters immediately, and save state to EEPROM in the firmware. This is the approach taken in the latest Prusa printers, and is a bit more complex, but might turn out to be more reliable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the problem you are solving really is brown-outs, then a simpler solution might be to isolate the high current and control sides of the circuit. The MCU will be run from a regulated 5V or 3V3, so a large capacitor (with diode isolation) on that regulator's input would do the trick.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4927" LastEditorUserId="4927" LastEditDate="2018-08-23T10:29:47.630" LastActivityDate="2018-08-23T10:29:47.630" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6721" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6716" CreationDate="2018-08-23T10:42:36.403" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;Fire is the most obvious risk - firmware can now detect some of the more obvious failure modes such as a detached thermistor, but loose or failing connections can still overheat. A smoke alarm is a fairly obvious (but not necessarily effective) protective measure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The risk from particulates in particular is &lt;em&gt;probably&lt;/em&gt; low, but marginal health risks like this are extremely hard to analyse, and will likely take many years to manifest. The closest analogue would be to look at commercial plastics workers since they are exposed to both heated plastic, and any potential dust generated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could also compare the risk to other 'hobby' activities such as soldering, painting, woodworking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4927" LastActivityDate="2018-08-23T10:42:36.403" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6722" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6733" CreationDate="2018-08-23T10:59:49.767" Score="7" ViewCount="5812" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've seen many references to a FDM print being weakest in the Z axis, due to poor bonding between layers compared to the extruded walls. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thinking about optimising this for a specific material (excluding temperature and geometry), is there an optimum layer height? It seems obvious that too thick a layer will give less compression and maybe less heat transfer into the layer below (so 0.3 with a 0.4mm nozzle might be expected to be a bit weak). Is there a single break point (i.e. less than half the nozzle is good), or are super fine layers either good or bad?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm specifically using PLA at the moment, in case different materials have different behaviour in this respect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am &lt;strong&gt;not&lt;/strong&gt; asking how to model the strength of layer bonds or how to take that into account when designing a part.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4927" LastEditorUserId="4927" LastEditDate="2018-09-18T12:05:16.547" LastActivityDate="2023-10-24T08:42:30.983" Title="Relation between layer height and bond strength" Tags="|print-quality|slicing|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6723" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6725" CreationDate="2018-08-23T12:08:25.053" Score="24" ViewCount="60283" Body="&lt;p&gt;I will be creating a small tube styled piece to use as a junction between two pieces of plastic. The idea is to reattach the two pieces and provide strength so they don't break apart again. I plan on using PLA.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is, will superglue (cyanoacrylate) work best for this or are there better choices for attaching PLA to hard (injected molded) plastic? The big thing I'm wanting to make sure is if any of these glues will dissolve the PLA and whether some glues might bond better than others.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11242" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2021-11-14T12:15:35.900" LastActivityDate="2022-07-08T16:18:31.670" Title="What glues for bonding printed PLA to injection-molded plastic?" Tags="|pla|post-processing|knowledgebase|glue|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6724" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6723" CreationDate="2018-08-23T12:25:15.183" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes Super Glue is best choice.&#xA;I personally use it in many PLA projects.&#xA;I even apply Super Glue layer to ABS prints to avoid layer separation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It works well with both ABS and PLA, but exercise some caution whilst using Super Glue because it produces very bad tear gas. Use it in a well ventilated area.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12398" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-08-23T17:02:03.170" LastActivityDate="2018-08-23T17:02:03.170" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6725" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6723" CreationDate="2018-08-23T13:27:29.230" Score="33" Body="&lt;p&gt;PLA is a nice one, and gluing has been a topic on some of our most favorite maker's channels. For example Stefan from CNC kitchen (&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JSff8OMRHtw&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this video&lt;/a&gt;) and Joel the 3DPrinting Nerd (&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s1q2D_pK0BE&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this video&lt;/a&gt;). Also, in 2022, &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/dGE509zjf7E&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Tom's 3D&lt;/a&gt; ran a test on glues for PLA, PETG and resin prints. Here some information from them together with my own experiences. Most of these glues are not exactly PLA specific by the way and work for many other materials too. Be careful with PLA containing infil though, as that can seriously alter the properties.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Step 0: Safety First!&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some of these methods are working with chemicals that can irritate the skin (resin, cyanoacrylate), have irritating fumes (acetone), or are flammable (acetone). Others (Cyanoacrylate) are not heat-stable and break down into their components under heat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Use proper protection when working with glue! Eye protection and respiratory protection, as well as gloves, are to be used when necessary. Read the manual of the products you are working with!&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Preparations&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For most glues, it is advisable to prepare the surface: sand it to increase the surface area, remove grease from fingerprints etc. Follow the manual!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Glues&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cyanoacrylate - yep, the &amp;quot;one kind for all&amp;quot; is a solution for PLA too: Superglue. However, look out for what type you get! Some are clearly better than others, and using an accelerator can change the properties of the glue spot.&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Together with talcum powder, CA glue (&amp;quot;superglue&amp;quot;) can fill gaps easily. However, a gap-bridging bond isn't the strongest, and working can be finicky. Yet if the parts do sit flush, a CA glue bond can be a almost as strong as any 2-component glue bond tested, according to Tom.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;CA is not stable under heating and when heated too much it breaks apart into a rather noxious fume!&lt;/strong&gt; This can be handy to break metal-CA-metal bonds in machining of small parts but keep this in mind if you want to use inserts or plastic-soler pieces on the same areas! Don't tack with CA in those cases.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Epoxy resin - Epoxy is a favorite for very tough gluing, a few droplets can stick a car to the roof... and it warms up in curing. If you take a slow&#xA;curing resin, you can safely use it to glue PLA without the part deforming.&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Uncured Resin and their hardeners are strong skin irritants.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2-Component Acrylic resin is just as good as epoxy often, as Tom noticed. It's very comparable to Epoxy in performance.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.adhesives.org/adhesives-sealants/adhesives-sealants-overview/adhesive-technologies/chemically-curing/two-component-(2-c)/urethane-adhesives&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Urethanes&lt;/a&gt; - 2 Component Urethanes offer strong but flexible bonds and work great according to Joel. Their curing process is also exothermic, so take care to not 'cook' your piece.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2-phase Putty - in a similar vein come 2-phase putties like &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.games-workshop.com/en-FI/Green-Stuff&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Green Stuff&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.milliput.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Miliputt&lt;/a&gt;, which harden after mixing. Their heat generation isn't too big and they allow to fill gaps easily. My favorite stuff though is not the expensive modeling putty but the stuff from the home depot: stuff like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.pattex.de/do-it-yourself-mit-pattex-klebstoffe-produkte-new/pattex-klebstoffe/reparaturkleber/repair-express.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Pattex Repair&lt;/a&gt;&lt;sup&gt;sorry, no English site for this&lt;/sup&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.uhu.com/en/products/epoxy-adhesives-2-component/detail/uhu-repair-all-powerkitt-1.html?cHash=e0f929a3ec974e591e89c5e1987a30ab&amp;amp;step=70&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;UHU Repair All Powerkitt&lt;/a&gt; harden within an hour, are surprisingly cheap and get a smooth surface.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Acetone - We all know that you can smooth and glue ABS with Acetone or an acetone-ABS slurry. &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VZUfq0yrtv4&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Tom (Thomas Sanladerer)&lt;/a&gt; made a few experiments with it. He discovered that it works for at least &lt;em&gt;some&lt;/em&gt; types of PLA in the following fashion: apply some acetone to a spot and press the second piece (that also was prepared this way) to it and they might melt themselves together after some time.&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Effectivity of this depends &lt;strong&gt;very highly&lt;/strong&gt; on the exact PLA you got.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Acetone is highly flammable.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There's a type of glues commonly called &amp;quot;Kraftkleber&amp;quot; or &amp;quot;Alleskleber&amp;quot; in Germany, for example, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.uhu.com/en/products/special-adhesives/detail/uhu-hart-kunststoff-1.html?cHash=9e818145273de580c4e3c132faad3710&amp;amp;step=202&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;UHU Hart&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.pattex.de/do-it-yourself-mit-pattex-klebstoffe-produkte-new/pattex-klebstoffe/kontaktkleber-gel-fuer-schwierige-oberflaechen/kraftkleber-transparent.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Pattex Kraftkleber&lt;/a&gt;&lt;sup&gt;German&lt;/sup&gt;. While they often &lt;em&gt;stick&lt;/em&gt; to PLA, I personally don't like their gluing power and find them often quite messy to work with. Also, they very much fail in loadbearing joints.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wood Glue - Yes, Wood Glue. PVA Wood glue as well as its non-water-soluble cousin (&amp;quot;Express&amp;quot;) have proven themselves to me as a rather nice surface coating to smooth over print lines as well as a good solution to affix paper and wood to prints. It is less of a solution for plastic-plastic bonds but works OK-ish.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Glue? Why glue?!&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;&amp;quot;Solder&amp;quot;&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What better way is there to combine parts than welding or soldering?! Often none. My personal all-time-favorite PLA &lt;em&gt;glue&lt;/em&gt; is PLA itself, by using it as &lt;strong&gt;PLA solder&lt;/strong&gt;. This method also works for most other filament types, but is not advisable for ABS and other plastics that emit fumes without wearing respiratory protection! In any case, you need to work with an exhaust, as you heat your plastic in a not always fully controllable way. If you can, use a soldering station where you can set the temperature of the iron.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Take the pieces and make sure on both sides is a cavity that can be filled.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Take a soldering iron and set it to around 200°C.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Take a length of PLA filament.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Melt the filament with the soldering iron and use it as solder when combining the two pieces. Make sure that at least some filament gets into the cavities and sticks there - it can help to stick the soldering iron into the goop in there to force it to merge with the infill/walls and press together to hot PLA goop filled pieces against the iron before pulling it away, pressing the pieces together.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;As the PLA cools and hardens, the joint is usually tougher than the actual layer boundaries.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Pen&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Instead of using a soldering iron, one might also use a 3D printing pen&lt;sup&gt;One that eats filament, not one for PCL or some gel!&lt;/sup&gt;, but I don't like those personally.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Inserts!&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On a different note, a soldering iron is also a very good solution to make inserts into PLA - heat up the metal insert (like a nut) and press it into an undersized hole, and it will mold the plastic around itself into a perfect fit without any glue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Friction Welding&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An alternative to using direct heat from a soldering iron is &lt;strong&gt;friction welding&lt;/strong&gt;. For this, take a rotary power tool and some filament. Insert the filament into the tool, tighten and cut so that about an inch is reaching out of the claw. Turn it on at medium speed, about 800 to 1200 RPM. Now, once you press the tip of the spinning filament against other PLA it gets hot and melts, creating a welding seam. &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Pa2DoE3sirU&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Joel&lt;/a&gt; has a good explanation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2022-07-08T16:18:31.670" LastActivityDate="2022-07-08T16:18:31.670" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6726" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6830" CreationDate="2018-08-23T21:30:56.073" Score="5" ViewCount="1284" Body="&lt;p&gt;What are the 'headline' basic design rules for FDM?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which topics for design principles do you recommend to someone who has purchased an FDM machine and wants to understand what is practical?  In other words, where is the place to start when you don't yet know what questions to ask?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/5215/3d-printing-references-for-beginner&quot;&gt;This question&lt;/a&gt; and its answer discuss design tools and the workflow but doesn't cover design rules.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Design rules here meaning the principles of what is &lt;strong&gt;special&lt;/strong&gt; about &lt;strong&gt;planning&lt;/strong&gt; a design to be manufactured with an FDM process as opposed to traditional machining or a printing process like SLA, not the detailed/automated checks that would be applied to something like a PCB layout prior to sign-off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2082" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2018-11-28T14:36:32.530" LastActivityDate="2022-11-27T13:42:32.797" Title="What special considerations must be taken when designing parts for 3D printing?" Tags="|3d-design|knowledgebase|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6727" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6728" CreationDate="2018-08-24T09:48:06.743" Score="3" ViewCount="97" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently upgraded my Ultimaker 1. The upgrade includes a different stepper motor for the Extruder, the same a Ultimaker 2+ would use. I plugged the new motor and nothing happened.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To eliminate the problem I ordered a new PCB and stepper motor drivers, reassembled all electronics. For some reason the extruder does not move, and actually any other motor I plug into the extruder port doesn't either. I switched the driver, twice, but without a different result.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can anybody tell me what component could be faulty or how I can find the problem? Could it be the Arduino board, even when I use the Ulticontroller? Maybe remove one of the jumpers next to the driver?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4285" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2019-08-31T08:13:45.167" LastActivityDate="2019-08-31T08:13:45.167" Title="Customized Ultimaker 1: Extruder motor does not move" Tags="|stepper-driver|motor|ultimaker-original|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6728" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6727" CreationDate="2018-08-24T11:07:31.503" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Did you heat the hotend before attempting to move the extruder?  Most firmwares block cold extrusion.  If you send the printer &lt;code&gt;M302&lt;/code&gt; it will allow the extruder motor to move without the hotend being above the temperature set in the firmware.  Jumpers next to drivers are used to set microstepping, no need to adjust these unless you changed to a different type of driver or want to use different microstepping.  Changing them usually requires changing the steps in firmware as well.  Also, swapping drivers or motors while the driver is powered can destroy it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="233" LastActivityDate="2018-08-24T11:07:31.503" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6729" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2018-08-24T11:59:40.020" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;From the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wanhao3dprinter.com/dy/7.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;WANHAO 3D Printer page&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;With great efforts from everybody of WANHAO 3D Printer team, WANHAO start oversea 3D printer supplying since Aug 8th 2012. After accumulating 6 months experience in China local retail market, WANHAO has gathered good experience in manufacturing 3D printing Robot and after sales service. Based on these precious experience and hard working of our team, we believe WANHAO can provide more professional service and better up to date affordable 3D printer to awesome people all over the world.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;WANHAO has involve in 3D printer filed since early 2011. Several Roommates used all their pocket money and bought one Thing-O-Matic from Makerbot. This precious awesome machine brought these college students great enthusiasm in 3D project making and help these buddy build their dream. On 1st Oct WANHAO Replicate the Thing-O-Matic and named it DUPLICATOR ONE. This 1st Generation Made In China 3D printer has combined most of the advantage of RepRap and Makerbot, and upgrade the extruder to Non Block one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;In June 2012 WANHAO has invent it's 3D printer with LCD displayer which is now called REPLIATOR TWO. This is geat step that free your computer that you don't have to print while keep your computer running. Just a simple SD card will do all the rest job.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11242" LastEditorUserId="11242" LastEditDate="2018-08-24T13:30:42.320" LastActivityDate="2018-08-24T13:30:42.320" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6730" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2018-08-24T11:59:40.020" Score="0" Body="3D printer manufacturer from China since 2011." OwnerUserId="11242" LastEditorUserId="11242" LastEditDate="2018-08-24T13:30:36.503" LastActivityDate="2018-08-24T13:30:36.503" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6731" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2018-08-24T12:14:33.053" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Used on all three axes to indicate to the controller the bed or print head has reached the end of its travel in the home direction. This lets the controller gain a zero point in its travel, which allows for a starting position during printing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are three primary kinds of endstops (or limit switches):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Mechanical switch&lt;/strong&gt; - This is just a regular on/off device. As the bed or print head moves to location, the metal arm is push into the switch which indicates and sends a signal to the controller.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ePpZ7.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Mechanical switch&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ePpZ7.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Mechanical switch&quot; title=&quot;Mechanical switch&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Optical switch&lt;/strong&gt; - This type has an optical beam, which when interrupted, sends a signal to the controller.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7Gzda.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Optical switch&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7Gzda.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Optical switch&quot; title=&quot;Optical switch&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Proximity sensor&lt;/strong&gt; - This is most commonly used on the z-axis to aid in bed leveling. As the sensor end comes closer to the bed, it then sends a signal to the controller prior to the sensor coming in contact with other parts of the printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/itSvJ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Proximity sensor&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/itSvJ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Proximity sensor&quot; title=&quot;Proximity sensor&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11242" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-08-24T13:32:28.763" LastActivityDate="2018-08-24T13:32:28.763" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6732" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2018-08-24T12:14:33.053" Score="0" Body="Switch used to let the controller know the printer has reached the end of its travel in the home direction. Also known as a limit switch." OwnerUserId="11242" LastEditorUserId="11242" LastEditDate="2018-08-24T13:30:47.763" LastActivityDate="2018-08-24T13:30:47.763" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6733" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6722" CreationDate="2018-08-24T14:19:26.650" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;My3dmatter.com performed a &lt;a href=&quot;http://my3dmatter.com/influence-infill-layer-height-pattern//influence-infill-layer-height-pattern/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;series of tests&lt;/a&gt; with PLA, using &quot;a universal testing machine&quot;. They conclude:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Layer height influences the strength of a printed part when it becomes&#xA;  thin. A printed part at 0.1mm shows a max stress of only 29MPa, as&#xA;  opposed to 35MPa for 0.2mm (21% increase).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Past 0.2mm, the max stress remains fairly constant around 36 MPa (we&#xA;  confirmed this conclusion with an extra test at 0.4mm, not shown here&#xA;  because it was not part of the same batch).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/i2fXm.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/i2fXm.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: It is recommended to read the full article to comprehend the complexity of the subject matter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10684" LastEditorUserId="10684" LastEditDate="2018-10-21T00:28:38.123" LastActivityDate="2018-10-21T00:28:38.123" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6734" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5877" CreationDate="2018-08-24T15:39:59.377" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Opening the file in Meshmixer and then using the &lt;a href=&quot;https://help.autodesk.com/view/MSHMXR/2019/ENU/?guid=GUID-83BC663B-FA1C-46D3-8C2F-82EB6892DFC3&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;code&gt;Analysis &amp;gt; Inspector&lt;/code&gt; tool&lt;/a&gt; creates a colorful note, showing LOTS of errors in this model: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YSDFM.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YSDFM.png&quot; alt=&quot;Default settings Analysis look at the model&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A lot of the magenta errors, a few blue ones. Magenta means &quot;this detail has a small surface area, we'd delete it&quot;. Blue means &quot;Here's a hole in the surface, we'd stitch it&quot;. The black surface is pink as are some details we want to preserve, so let's change what is considered small: Pushing the &lt;code&gt;Small Thresh&lt;/code&gt; to the left (&lt;code&gt;0 mm&lt;/code&gt;) removes all the pink and leaves only blue and a few red spots. Like the windscreens, they are red now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/px5Nm.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/px5Nm.png&quot; alt=&quot;Analysis look with 0mm small threshold&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Red means &quot;here are some non-manifold regions, we'd create a surface to fix this&quot;. After clicking on &lt;code&gt;Auto Repair All&lt;/code&gt; it looks like this, having fixed a lot of these pins but definitely not all of them, as the MeshMixer engine runs against its limits trying to fix this sea urchin. But it is much better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VXr4H.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VXr4H.png&quot; alt=&quot;After Auto Repair&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is still a messed up model containing 416 non-closed shells (only 401 after repair), but now there &lt;em&gt;is&lt;/em&gt; a surface at the windows, yet not a very good one. Another example of this model's many errors: the port intake consists of 17 times the same thing copy-pasted next to itself - and it has no lower surface, making this just an open surface and not a solid object&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/P8L6t.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/P8L6t.png&quot; alt=&quot;Port intake&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my honest opinion, it would be more effective to fix this with Blender on a vertex level and stitching all the orphaned surfaces together. This model was most likely made for a video game and fixing up game models for 3D printing is at times pretty much recreating it from scratch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2018-08-24T15:50:33.993" LastActivityDate="2018-08-24T15:50:33.993" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6738" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4256" CreationDate="2018-08-25T13:39:12.133" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Rather than modifying the firmware to handle this, have you considered a pre-processing script on your computer, greping for a &lt;code&gt;G29&lt;/code&gt; in the G-code, then adding a &lt;code&gt;G28&lt;/code&gt;/&lt;code&gt;G29&lt;/code&gt; pair at the start of the file if no &lt;code&gt;G29&lt;/code&gt; is found?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12752" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-08-25T13:54:40.253" LastActivityDate="2018-08-25T13:54:40.253" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6739" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6741" CreationDate="2018-08-25T13:50:51.290" Score="4" ViewCount="1359" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I purchased my China made Anet A8 printer, it came with the ball bearing style linear bearings for the 8mm guide rods. While pulling parts out of the box and putting them together, I noticed several of the small ball bearings fell out of their respective holders. At the time, I really didn't know what to think of it (ie: were these just &lt;em&gt;extra&lt;/em&gt; ball bearings falling out; were they actually needed). I put the printer together anyway and it seems to work okay.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have noticed while I've been printing, there's a lot of noise during travel of the pieces. I'm not exactly sure where the noise is coming from, but realize it has to be coming from one or more of the bearings. To hopefully fix the issue, I've purchased some Igus Drylin polymer bushings to replace the linear bearings:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dA0pj.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dA0pj.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My questions are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When installing these bushings, should they be completely dry?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Should I at least clean the rods?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Are they completely maintenance free?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Anything else I'm not thinking of to worry about?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11242" LastEditorUserId="11242" LastEditDate="2018-09-15T13:38:54.867" LastActivityDate="2018-09-15T13:38:54.867" Title="Replacing bearings with Drylin bushings" Tags="|maintenance|bearing|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6740" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4256" CreationDate="2018-08-25T14:14:47.283" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;With Marlin 1.1.0, you can automatically run a G-Code file when powering on the printer with a SD card already present.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Add a file named &lt;code&gt;auto0.g&lt;/code&gt; at the root of your card, containing the following G-Code:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;G28 ;Auto-homing&#xA;G29 ;Bed leveling&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Normally the bed leveling map should be reused for all subsequent prints, until the printer is turned off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is possible to provide up to 10 files, from &lt;code&gt;auto0.g&lt;/code&gt; to &lt;code&gt;auto9.g&lt;/code&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12752" LastEditorUserId="12752" LastEditDate="2018-09-05T23:04:31.047" LastActivityDate="2018-09-05T23:04:31.047" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6741" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6739" CreationDate="2018-08-25T14:48:05.260" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.igus.eu/wpck/19864/drylin_plasticvsmetal&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;igus commercial documentation&lt;/a&gt;, these bushings:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;do not need any kind of lubrication,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;are not susceptible to humidity (but your steel rods might) &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;work seamlessly in presence of dust (it gets expelled from the bushing with movements)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've replaced all of my bearings with these, and in my experience, the above claims have been true so far. I must say that I am really pleased with them. Movement is smoother, and the noise is considerably lower.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did clean the rods to remove any trace of lubrication prior to installing them. I did not dry them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I believe that igus is also selling rods in a material designed to even further improve the qualities of these bushings, but it starts to become quite an investment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12752" LastActivityDate="2018-08-25T14:48:05.260" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6743" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4256" CreationDate="2018-08-26T13:34:45.220" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Rather than placing the &lt;code&gt;G28&lt;/code&gt; (Home) and &lt;code&gt;G29&lt;/code&gt; (bed level) in the configuration, I would place it in the G-code generating slicer as pre-print code. This will automatically add this to the start of any G-code sliced, enforcing the homing and leveling whenever the G-code is run.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastActivityDate="2018-08-26T13:34:45.220" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6744" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-08-27T05:08:44.890" Score="4" ViewCount="5184" Body="&lt;p&gt;ISSUE: Stepper motors are not working when connected with RAMPS 1.4.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;OBSERVATION: The LED lights(LED 2,3,4) in the RAMPS 1.4 is not powering up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PRACTICES: I use Arduino Mega 2560 and installed Marlin firmware in it. And I bought a RAMPS 1.4 in a local electronic dealer. I placed the RAMPS over Arduino Mega 2560. For testing I just connected 2 NEMA 17 stepper motors with RAMPS. When USB port connection is given from laptop to Arduino board, a LED light is ON in Arduino board (L) and in RAMPS (LED 1). I use SMPS 12&amp;nbsp;V 20&amp;nbsp;A as a PSU for RAMPS. But in RAMPS the LED 2, 3, 4 are not switched ON. I checked the input voltage to the RAMPS using micrometer and it shows 11.75&amp;nbsp;V. But there is no output from the RAMPS.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also I installed and tried Repetier firmware and Grbl but it doesn't work. And I use Windows 10 pro 64 bit OS.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I flashed Arduino with Grbl, in this case all of the LEDs on the Arduino and RAMPS 1.4 are switched ON. I use Candle GRBL software to test the stepper motors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And I replaced and tested with another RAMPS which is bought from Amazon but the problem remains unchanged.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Kindly give some suggestions at the earliest.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have attached the images of my circuit connection:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/m4Q68.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/m4Q68.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;i.imgur.com/k39rd7t.jpg&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dyH6r.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dyH6r.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;i.imgur.com/OPPuElQ.jpg&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4Pk7V.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4Pk7V.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;i.imgur.com/mM3BIEn.jpg&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Board selection in Marlin:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#ifndef MOTHERBOARD &#xA;#define MOTHERBOARD BOARD_RAMPS_14_EFB &#xA;#endif &#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Additional clarifications&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In response to Professor's questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Yes the stepper drivers are connected correctly &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Yes the stepper wiring is accurate (2B 2A 1A 1B) as per mentioned in the Ramps 1.4. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;No there is no voltage input to stepper motor. But there is 12V input to Ramps 1.4. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Disabled cold extrusion &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;No, the firmware is not set to no move before homing (issue G28 first) &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Yes, pins are set correctly for your board in Marlin&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12765" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-08-30T09:32:38.610" LastActivityDate="2018-10-13T16:30:01.910" Title="Stepper motors are not working when connected with RAMPS 1.4" Tags="|marlin|diy-3d-printer|ramps-1.4|electronics|arduino-mega-2650|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6745" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6744" CreationDate="2018-08-27T07:46:30.790" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;to help you to solve this problem - please see my checklist&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;are the stepper drivers connected correctly (pin1 to pin1)?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;stepper wiring is accurate (1a-1a..2b-2b)?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;is there enough voltage provided to the steppers (regulate)?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;if you are trying to move E0 or E1 then you need to disable cold extrusion as that stops rotation (waiting for 170C deg on the nozzle)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;is the firmware set to no move before homing (issue G28 first)?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;are pins set correctly for your board in Marlin?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;the led's are set on my ramps as they are mostly giving a stutus for heater fan and bed, so grbl software could use those pins differently&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9730" LastActivityDate="2018-08-27T07:46:30.790" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6746" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-08-27T09:17:53.603" Score="2" ViewCount="114" Body="&lt;p&gt;After doing some repairs and upgrades on my Ultimaker Original, I found my temperature readings to be &lt;em&gt;weird&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reading is not incorrect, as long as the temperature is above 110°C. When the real temparature is below 110°C, the sensor will always read 110°C, with only subtle changes around 0.1°C.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This will cause the printer to abort heating, because it does not see a change in temparature for the first 30 seconds (when the temperature is below 110°C).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vXm5g.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vXm5g.png&quot; alt=&quot;Pronterface Tempearture Readings&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here you can see a screenshot of Pronterface, showing how the temperature (blue line) starts increasing when my printer already aborted heating (violet line).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am certain that the reading is incorrect because at the beginning the hotend actually feels cold to touch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am also certain that the reading above 110°C is more or less accurate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What could this be caused by? What parts should I replace?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If I should replace the TC2, will a TC1 do too? I can't seem to find any store selling the TC2.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If I should replace the sensor, what kind of sensor should I search for?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Or is there a drop-in sensor-chip-combination that I can buy?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4285" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2019-08-31T08:13:38.493" LastActivityDate="2019-08-31T08:13:38.493" Title="Hotend temperature reading limited" Tags="|hotend|ultimaker-original|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6747" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6882" CreationDate="2018-08-27T13:17:40.447" Score="8" ViewCount="20637" Body="&lt;p&gt;I sadly have a big problem since a couple of weeks and I cant fix it myself. For over 20 prints, I had the same problems: At the &lt;strong&gt;start, everything goes well&lt;/strong&gt; but at some point of time, my Creality CR-10 starts &lt;strong&gt;under extruding and&lt;/strong&gt; after like 1 minute, &lt;strong&gt;NO filament is extruded anymore&lt;/strong&gt; and the 3D printer moves over the printing bed without extruding anything. After that, I have to pull out the filament and the feeder always grinds into it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some problem with the hotend (so the feeder works well but it cant push the filament through somehow - I cleaned the nozzle and couldn't find anything wrong there. When I push the filament through by hand it gets extruded but after a failed print, it is &lt;strong&gt;VERY hard to pull it back&lt;/strong&gt; (because of the filament being slightly bigger at the nozzle - hard to remove! - &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;That could be the problem:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;I just tried to remove the filament from the printer (another failed print) I had to use two tongs because the filament was so hard to pull back. I noticed that the diameter of the PLA close to the hotend was a lot bigger (way over 1.75&amp;nbsp;mm) &lt;em&gt;For about 5&amp;nbsp;cm&lt;/em&gt; that's a very long distance - that's the reason why it's hard to pull back (and also push through?) But I don't know why that happens... If I get an answer for that, I think that I have solved my problem&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I already tried printing at 50&amp;nbsp;% which didn't work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Creality CR-10 with 0.4&amp;nbsp;mm nozzle, &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1.75&amp;nbsp;mm PLA filament used (white)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;0.27&amp;nbsp;mm layer height&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;45&amp;nbsp;mm/s printing speed at 220° (I can easily push the filament through at 200° by hand)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;60° bed temp&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And here some pictures of the failed prints:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZPB2n.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Failed print&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZPB2n.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Failed print&quot; title=&quot;Failed print&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Mrw3I.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Filament grinding&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Mrw3I.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Filament grinding&quot; title=&quot;Filament grinding&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xKJTQ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Sorry for the bad resolution&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xKJTQ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Sorry for the bad resolution&quot; title=&quot;Sorry for the bad resolution&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/54vPw.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Failed print #2&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/54vPw.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Failed print #2&quot; title=&quot;Failed print #2&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;I think I can exclude these:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It could be: (the things I can imagine but don't have a solution for)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The feeder being too strong/my new PLA filament being too soft&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Maybe a software problem? I'm using the newest Cura version and I don't know what could be wrong there.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The filament seems to run out of the hotend. Something is really broken here. I tried to lower the print temperature and don't have an issue (at least not that big) with pulling out the filament but instead, the feeder started grinding into the filament again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tHT78.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Filament exiting nozzle&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tHT78.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Filament exiting nozzle&quot; title=&quot;Filament exiting nozzle&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm very happy for any answer and possible solutions.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user12769" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2019-05-22T20:22:44.663" LastActivityDate="2021-02-04T22:52:18.403" Title="Constant under extrusion and filament grinding" Tags="|filament|pla|extrusion|hotend|" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6748" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6747" CreationDate="2018-08-27T13:30:52.187" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Grinding is due to attempts to advance filament faster than it can be melted and dispensed. Try one or more of the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Raise the head temperature (to meet current throughput demand)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lower the print speed (to reduce throughput demand)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Slice for thinner layers (to reduce throughput demand)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4922" LastActivityDate="2018-08-27T13:30:52.187" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6749" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6716" CreationDate="2018-08-27T13:33:47.067" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Standard manufacturing practices contraindicate leaving a manufacturing device unmonitored while it's on. That being said, your workshop should be well ventilated anyways since you're probably using acetone, isopropyl alcohol, and other substances that you shouldn't inhale.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can not move to a well ventilated workshop, consider installing a fume hood or at least a range hood in your current workshop&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12708" LastActivityDate="2018-08-27T13:33:47.067" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6750" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-08-27T13:40:10.057" Score="4" ViewCount="1111" Body="&lt;p&gt;Issue: Printing is not continuous.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Observation: While printing, the upper layer of the nozzle is leaking. And also the printing is not continuous, the layers are not formed properly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Practices: Alternate nozzle has been fastened, Bed leveling has been checked, Even used the other softwares to print. Reset-failsafe is  also done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Conclusion: Feeding of filament from the extruder motor is continuous but the printing is not smooth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Attachment: The pictures and &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/Zwp45vp5AxQ&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;videos&lt;/a&gt; (working) are attached.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Wtiiu.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Picture of the actual print&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which should be a print of the following image of the model:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WXBFdb.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Picture of model&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Certainly I have made certain observations along with your suggested queries. I have listed them please comment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The brand which I'm using is the TEVO TORNADO. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The material is PLA. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The temperatures are 60-65C (BED) and 210-215C (EXT) &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The software I used is REPETIER. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The extruder stepper motor works fine (No clicks) (The teeths are clean) &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;This is the nozzle leak &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://ibb.co/c6gf2p&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://preview.ibb.co/hVk7hp/IMG_20180829_094755.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Nozzle Leak&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12768" LastEditorUserId="4927" LastEditDate="2018-08-30T07:04:46.827" LastActivityDate="2018-08-30T07:04:46.827" Title="Extrusion is not continuous" Tags="|print-quality|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6751" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6753" CreationDate="2018-08-27T13:50:32.257" Score="9" ViewCount="3856" Body="&lt;p&gt;I get the concept of automatic bed leveling...the printer moves around the bed and uses a sensor to identify high and low spots, then &quot;software compensates for differences&quot;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But what exactly does &quot;compensates&quot; mean? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is extruding more material in the low spots to build them up and thinning out the high spots? Is it adding or removing layers? Is it shifting layers as it goes up to compensate tilt? Or...? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In what ways will this affect the final outcome? Would it be valid to say that if you wanted an automatically leveled bed and dimensional accuracy you should always print to a raft?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12559" LastActivityDate="2018-08-31T23:12:31.440" Title="What exactly does automatic bed leveling do?" Tags="|bed-leveling|rafts|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6753" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6751" CreationDate="2018-08-27T14:55:49.333" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Last first:  use of a raft has nothing to do with bed levelling. It depends only on the features/shape/etc of the object being printed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, as to what the auto-levelling does: the answer is, sadly &quot;it depends.&quot;  A simple algorithm will just find the Z-height of the four corners and apply a bilinear correction to Z as a function of {x,y} coordinates.  A really good algorithm would map the entire build plate to some designated precision (perhaps 5 mm) and create a 2-dimensional lookup table to adjust Z over a curved build plate.     What your printer's levelling software does is more likely the former. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why? because if you try to correct over curves &amp;amp; bumps, then you will end up distorting your entire printed object (basically forcing every layer to follow those distorted axes).  Far better to have some flattened or &quot;fat&quot; spots in the first layer printed, and then print proper planar layers after that.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Example: I know my bed (AnetA8 aluminum) is slightly bowed, peak in the center; so after levelling the overall bed I try to set the Z-zero so the outer extremes of my object have good adhesion, even if the center region of the first couple layers ends up non-extruding because the nozzle touches the bed.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2191" LastActivityDate="2018-08-27T14:55:49.333" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6754" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6747" CreationDate="2018-08-27T15:56:04.650" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have had this problem for several reasons.  I can not say what your reason is, but these have been mine.  From your symptoms, I suspect the first problem, but I've listed others in case they are helpful&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I had this problem to most with a &amp;quot;Thing-o-Matic&amp;quot; printer.  The problem was that there wasn't a clean enough break between the heater and the filament.  To fix this, I added a fan on the metal tube above the melt zone.  When the filament was sitting, it would soften and expand.  It was then harder to push, and it would cause these vertical strings like you have in your picture.  The Thing-o-Matic extruder was direct rather than Bowden, but the same problem could exist.  I see that the CR-10 has a fan attached to the extruder.  Be sure it continues to run, and that the airflow cools the region right above the hot-end, even when the head is an inch above the bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One more thought on this topic: retracting pulls filament out of the melt zone into the space above the melt zone, bringing the heat with it.  Lowering the retraction settings may reduce the heating of the space above the melt-zone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Bad connection to the heater, so that the temperature drops while printing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Too much pressure on the filament by the extruder pressure roller.  One pass through is fine, but a pattern of short extrusions with frequent retraction caused the filament to pass repeatedly through the roller, and become flattened so that it had difficulty feeding through the rest of the mechanism.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Jammed filament on the spool, preventing the extruder from smoothly pulling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some other problems which could cause this, and I have looked for but haven't been the problem in my cases:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Weak power supply.  Check the +12 or +24 voltage while the problem is occurring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Overheated or defective extruder driver chip that fails to drive one or more stepper motor phases with sufficient current.  This can allow good behavior much of the time, but if anything happens that adds load to the motor, it can stop turning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2082" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:29:41.667" LastActivityDate="2018-09-06T17:03:53.867" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6755" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6770" CreationDate="2018-08-27T16:48:01.473" Score="2" ViewCount="1580" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qNWsZ.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qNWsZ.png&quot; alt=&quot;extruded text on flat surface&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hey!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pretty new to all this. Wondering how you would approach this problem to have an extruded element on top of a flat surface. I want to avoid lots of support material (actually no support at all for a cleaner print and no work with sanding etc.) I intend to print this inverted in Z (i.e. text down) for the main structure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My only idea would be to print it separately and then glue it on. But maybe there is another solution that comes to your mind?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cheers!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12771" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2018-09-01T16:33:41.523" LastActivityDate="2018-09-03T18:50:45.997" Title="How to print text upside down for minimal support when printing" Tags="|support-structures|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="5" ClosedDate="2018-09-04T15:03:17.977" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6756" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6755" CreationDate="2018-08-27T19:32:09.843" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Supporting the text while printing should simply not be a problem, if printed in the orientation shown. The text, as per your description and shown in the illustration is extruded vertically and there is no overhang. No support should be needed at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A few notes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bottom (dark grey) portion of your object does have a significant overhang, and may need some support depending on the specific shape. But support for that should not be near the text or affect it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Text can be tricky to print with high quality if the width is not much bigger than your nozzle size. This is not specific to text, but rather feature size, slicer settings, and printer/filament capabilities. Experimentation is your friend - print it, and then address any quality problems that you find.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want the text to be a different color (as in your illustration), you might be in luck. There is a technique to pause the printer at desired layer height, swap out the filament, and resume printing. Your shape would lend itself to this technique. It's not too hard, but the specifics do depend on the software and printer you are using. There are quite a few good writeups on various 3D printing sites. If you want to ask about this, please ask another question, with this information.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5704" LastActivityDate="2018-08-27T19:32:09.843" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6757" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6755" CreationDate="2018-08-27T19:42:09.180" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;welcome to 3DPrinting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To make this easier to talk about, let me call the surface on which you want to print the letters the &quot;tabletop&quot;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looking at your picture, let me guess that you would print the object with the tabletop down.  Then everything prints naturally, with no bridging and no overhangs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You want to put text on the tabletop.  This could be done by using support material to lift the bed up to the text height, or, in the converse, by using support material to permit the entire object to be printed with the tabletop up.  I can't see enough detail in your drawing to know if the object is printable with the tabletop up without using support material, so I will assume that it is not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In your drawing, the lettering is a different color from the table.  I'll assume that this is not your intention, and you want the entire object with the text to be printed with one material.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have solved this in two ways in different cases.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In one case, I wanted extruded letters printed on a vertical surface.  I surrounded the letters with a 45 degree draft so that the overhang was printable.  This won't help you here unless the object is printable on the side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In another case, I changed my design to have letters engraved rather than extruded.  That prints well against the bed, with no overhang issues, and only short bridging required.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Engraved letters are readable, like extruded letters, and can be printed against the bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2082" LastActivityDate="2018-08-27T19:42:09.180" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6758" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6751" CreationDate="2018-08-27T20:22:41.260" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;A probe or even manual (e.g. through LCD panel) leveling results in either a reference plane or mesh. This depends on the firmware and the options set in the firmware. Basically, this process maps the geometry of your build plate. Once it knows this geometry, printing an object results in the head following the height contours of the mapped build plate. Generally the following of the height contours is levelled out in the first few millimeters, which is also set in the firmware. This means that after a few millimeters of printing the height is not adjusted anymore, but is kept at a single level.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2018-08-27T20:22:41.260" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6759" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6739" CreationDate="2018-08-27T20:52:11.710" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In addition to &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/6741/5740&quot;&gt;this answer&lt;/a&gt; and addressing &lt;code&gt;Anything else I'm not thinking of to worry about?&lt;/code&gt; I would like to add that you should take care in installing the plastic bearings in suitable housings. It is best to lower the mass of the carriages by replacing the blocks and the bearings, there are a lot of printable bearing housings to find on the internet (e.g. Thingiverse). When installing plastic bearings, it is quite easy to get problems with bearings that bind, so take care when you install them and make sure the bearings do not bind (before you re-install the belt).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2018-08-27T20:52:11.710" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6760" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6773" CreationDate="2018-08-27T21:02:10.920" Score="4" ViewCount="167" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are there any specific type of FDM 3D printers that I should look for?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12774" LastEditorUserId="4927" LastEditDate="2018-08-28T11:45:56.297" LastActivityDate="2023-12-15T22:00:26.067" Title="Do all 3D printers allow the printing of flexible material?" Tags="|diy-3d-printer|nozzle|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ClosedDate="2018-08-31T11:46:22.143" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6761" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6760" CreationDate="2018-08-27T21:13:34.877" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not all printers are suitable to print flexible filament. E.g. 1.75 mm filament printers with a Bowden extruder/hotend combination will not work (you may have more luck using 2.85 mm filament, which is stiffer because of the increased diameter). For 1.75 mm filament you require a direct drive extruder, e.g. with the stepper mounted onto the hotend, even then some additional guide parts need to be printed to make it work. This also depends on the amount of flexibility of the filament, some are more flexible than others.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;E.g. Ultimaker 3D printers use 2.85 mm filament with a Bowden setup. They also sell a flexible filament that can be printed with these printers. Even for direct drive extruder printers like the Anet A8 (a cheap Chinese Prusa i3 clone) inserts exist (e.g. &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1829810&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2217215&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this one&lt;/a&gt;) to even better guide the filament to prevent it to buckle. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-08-29T14:51:38.820" LastActivityDate="2018-08-29T14:51:38.820" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6762" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6769" CreationDate="2018-08-27T22:30:49.547" Score="7" ViewCount="549" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to slice this model: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.shapeways.com/product/VVNUVZ6JL/dread-warrior?optionId=66361748&amp;amp;li=user-profile&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.shapeways.com/product/VVNUVZ6JL/dread-warrior?optionId=66361748&amp;amp;li=user-profile&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LdPE9.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LdPE9.png&quot; alt=&quot;Original&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm using a .4mm nozzle and .1mm layer height. When using slic3r some of the layers seem to just not get generated. You can see this on the horns. It also has some weird artifacts on the shield of the model. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FRT6G.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FRT6G.png&quot; alt=&quot;Slic3r&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried using Cura to slice the same model and while it does a better job for the horns it removes most of the face on the model.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Kkl7h.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Kkl7h.png&quot; alt=&quot;Cura&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any slicer settings I can adjust to help fix these artifacts? Is there any other slicer out there that may fix the problems? Is this just a problem of needing to use a smaller nozzle and lower layer height?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9938" LastActivityDate="2018-09-06T11:21:50.717" Title="Slicing problem - Slic3r prusa" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|slicing|slic3r|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6763" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6716" CreationDate="2018-08-28T03:11:50.483" Score="17" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;You are probably pretty safe printing PLA&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Regarding emissions, the following recent report, &lt;a href=&quot;https://pubs.acs.org/doi/pdfplus/10.1021/acs.est.5b04983&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Emissions of Ultrafine Particles and Volatile Organic Compounds&#xA;from Commercially Available Desktop Three-Dimensional Printers&#xA;with Multiple Filaments&lt;/a&gt;, indicates that PLA is a pretty low emitter (1/20th of nylon) and most of what it out-gasses is Lactide which is low on the harm scale.  That said, everybody's nose sees things a bit different and people tolerate smells differently. Note also that we used to think lots of things (like asbestos) were harmless that we know differently now.  Note also in the figure below from the &lt;a href=&quot;https://pubs.acs.org/doi/pdfplus/10.1021/acs.est.5b04983&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;report&lt;/a&gt; that all PLAs are not created equal.  Dremel PLA produce way more nasty stuff than FlashForge PLA did.  I am also sure additives, colorant, and fillers can change this a lot as PLA filaments aren't not all PLA.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oFK7Y.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Estimates of emission rates for the top three highest-concentration VOCs&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oFK7Y.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Estimates of emission rates for the top three highest-concentration VOCs&quot; title=&quot;Estimates of emission rates for the top three highest-concentration VOCs&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Regarding the fire safety issue.  Note that there is a BIG difference between a kit and a &quot;product&quot;.  Since you are the manufacturer of the printer for a &quot;kit&quot;, the packager of the &quot;kit&quot; is not responsible for the fire or electrical certifications of the final product.  This does open the door to some risks.  The biggest risks are electrical safety; but, fire safety can be an issue as well.  I would say that the risk is likely higher to you personally when the printer is NOT in your bedroom as if it catches fire when you are sleeping, you will likely catch the fire faster if it is in your bedroom.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;From a practical standpoint, I have heard several people complain that they can't sleep when the printer is printing when the printer is in a separate room.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6417" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-09-09T09:21:17.923" LastActivityDate="2018-09-09T09:21:17.923" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6764" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6765" CreationDate="2018-08-28T08:27:49.767" Score="3" ViewCount="264" Body="&lt;p&gt;A couple weeks before, I bought a custom 3D printer that has an Ultimaker 2 motherboard in it. However, the dimensions of the printer is not same with Ultimaker 2 (X and Y same, a bit smaller on Z). The printer had tinkerfirmware installed in it. Today, I tried to print a premade .gcode file (Which was for another 3D printer I guess) and after pressing print, The machine told me the file will overwrite machine settings, and I pressed yes for it. After that, the dimensions of my 3D printer has changed in it's firmware. The bed is raising more than it should while starting calibrating, and not setting it's position precisely. (To make the 1mm gap, I had to move the bed down 4-5mm away from where it should be.) Now the question is, what can I do to fix this problem ? I also tried reinstalling original firmware which didn't really worked. (All the parts are orginal except the frame, which is a bit more smaller on height) How should I measure the height of printing area?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12781" LastActivityDate="2018-08-28T11:41:43.770" Title="Custom 3D printer printing dimensions has changed because of a .gcode file" Tags="|firmware|desktop-printer|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6765" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6764" CreationDate="2018-08-28T11:29:57.717" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your printer is an Ultimaker clone or something else?  All of the original firmwares located on TinkerGnome's Github are configured for Ultimaker printers so if you are using them on something different you will need to configure it before using it.  The easiest option would be editing this print file that changed your settings to your desired settings and then reloading it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How to find your actual Z? Well that's a bit difficult without more information.  I'm guessing from your description that your printer homes at Z max?  If it's homing at Z max you need to home the machine, jog the Z axis to where you want 0 to be (usually using a piece of paper between the nozzle and bed), then record the Z axis position and enter that as your travel limit in the firmware.  If your printer homes at Z min this could be as simple as changing the homing offset.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="233" LastActivityDate="2018-08-28T11:29:57.717" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6766" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6764" CreationDate="2018-08-28T11:41:43.770" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Firmware &lt;em&gt;is&lt;/em&gt; stored in EEPROM, and may contain some default values, but does not affect the &lt;em&gt;calibration&lt;/em&gt; values which are stored in EEPROM.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should be able to reset the calibration to 'factory defaults', this actually means to take the defaults in the firmware and store them in EEPROM.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Use &lt;code&gt;M502&lt;/code&gt; to load firmware defaults into the current session.&#xA;Use &lt;code&gt;M500&lt;/code&gt; to write the settings from the current session into EEPROM.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is unusual for a design in gcode to include modifications to the settings, but maybe it was done to change acceleration or something similar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4927" LastActivityDate="2018-08-28T11:41:43.770" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6767" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1541" CreationDate="2018-08-28T12:11:11.023" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've noticed that the first layer seems more prone to wrapping flexible filament around the drive, particularly if the nozzle is a bit on the low side. The extra extrusion force required to push the filament against the resistance of the bed means that the filament can't sustain enough pressure without folding. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a quick workaround for this, I lowered the extrusion multiplier to 60% on the fly for the first layer (as well as keeping the speed right down).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4927" LastActivityDate="2018-08-28T12:11:11.023" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6768" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6747" CreationDate="2018-08-28T12:26:10.813" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Under-extrusion after some time printing sounds like heat-creep. If the cold side of the extruder is getting warm, even up to 60°C (the glass transition temperature), then the un-heated filament will start to soften and fill out to block the tube. As this happens, there is more pressure above the hot-end and less extrusion (but even more force to make the situation worse).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8D904.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8D904.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;sample clogged filament&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The best solution to this is better cooling of the extruder/stepper, and a good heat-break with a sharp transition between solid and well-melted (but something has presumably triggered this failure on your setup, rather than a fundamental design problem).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other things you could try are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Less retract distance (to reduce the variables)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lower print temperature (and speed, but this will increase pressure in the nozzle)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Reduce the extrusion multiplier (if your filament is a bit thick, the pressure might be a bit high)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4927" LastEditorUserId="4927" LastEditDate="2018-08-28T17:36:59.927" LastActivityDate="2018-08-28T17:36:59.927" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6769" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6762" CreationDate="2018-08-28T12:46:53.967" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's a nozzle size issue. The model contains a lot of details which is really challenging to print with a 0.4&amp;nbsp;mm nozzle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A big nozzle is just not able to print such fine details. You should switch to 0.25&amp;nbsp;mm or 0.15&amp;nbsp;mm. Just try to set a smaller nozzle in your slicer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a nice article on Prusa's blog showing the difference in printing details with 0.4mm and 0.25mm: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.prusaprinters.org/everything-about-nozzles-with-a-different-diameter/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;EVERYTHING ABOUT NOZZLES WITH A DIFFERENT DIAMETER&lt;/a&gt;, especially chapters &lt;em&gt;Examples of practical use&lt;/em&gt; and &lt;em&gt;Printing miniatures&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See the difference:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/juRTb.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Business card in slicer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/juRTb.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Business card in slicer&quot; title=&quot;Business card in slicer&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xVd9Z.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Business card print&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xVd9Z.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Business card print&quot; title=&quot;Business card print&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iLaVF.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Pirate with sword&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iLaVF.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Pirate with sword&quot; title=&quot;Pirate with sword&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6nAzv.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Chest&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6nAzv.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Chest&quot; title=&quot;Chest&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="75" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-08-29T00:21:26.520" LastActivityDate="2018-08-29T00:21:26.520" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6770" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6755" CreationDate="2018-08-28T15:06:24.970" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Let's assume a general case where the base object has to be printed &quot;face down&quot; for reasons of overhang, strength, or anything.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My recommendation, and it's largely one of personal style, is to modify the face surface to have a couple mounting holes in it.  Then, in whatever CAD or Mesh software you're using, add mating pegs to the backside of the lettering. (This is easier if you can include a thin &quot;base layer&quot; or connectors so the text is a single object).  Then print the base object &quot;face down,&quot; print the text &quot;face up&quot;, add glue and insert pins into holes.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2191" LastActivityDate="2018-08-28T15:06:24.970" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6771" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6750" CreationDate="2018-08-28T19:17:52.160" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;and welcome to 3D Printing Stack Exchange.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the picture and the video, it appears that you have significant under extrusion.  It is impossible to determine from this information what is causing this.  It could be temperature, such as a nozzle that is too cold, slicing configuration being wrong, such as by slicing for 3mm filament but using 1.75mm filament, electronics, such as the extruder stepper not generating enough torque, or a jam where the filament simply can't be pressed into the hot zone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I listened to your video but didn't hear anything that might help straighten this out.  But, what I didn't hear was a &quot;clicking&quot; extruder.  The extruder &quot;clicks&quot; if it is trying really hard to push the filament but it is not able to come out of the nozzle.  It might be worth checking the toothed roller that drives the filament to be sure the teeth are clean.  If the teeth are full, the drive roller can't get a grip on the filament to push it forward.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, I am concerned that plastic is may be coming out somewhere other than the top of the nozzle.  That shouldn't happen.  Could you attach a photo of plastic coming out of the wrong place?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;---  Added after comments, and &lt;a href=&quot;https://ibb.co/c6gf2p&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this photo os the nozzle leak was&lt;/a&gt; attached.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3D printing needs a long chain of conditions to be right.  Any problem in that chain can cause unacceptable results.  When trying to get good results, it is always best to fix any problem you find, and the plastic leak is a big problem.  Other problems may exist, but this must be fixed for a print to succeed.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The plastic leak is a big problem for a few reasons:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It allows plastic to leave the melt zone other than through the nozzle.  Since 3D printing depends on controlling the plastic leaving the nozzle for the print, this extra escape path is plastic which should have been neatly deposited on your print.  The control system has no way to know that the plastic it fed through the extruder is not on the print, so you get under extrusion.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There is an extra chamber inside the hot end which must be melted.  In the ideal case, the filament directly enters the nozzle, in which it melts.  Pressure from the cold filament at one end pushes the molten filament toward and through the nozzle.  The filament doesn't not need to change directions or flow particularly easily because it always moves linearly through the hot end.  It necks-down to the output hole size, but that is assisted by an entry cone to the nozzle aperature.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In a working hot end, there is not hot filament inside the hot end that is not extruded.  There are no eddy currents.  There are no places where filament can rest.  PLA is prone to degradation when kept at printing temperatures.  This isn't a problem in an ideal hot end because no filament sits idle.  Where there is an opening, or any extra gap, even if filament weren't leaking past the threads, there would be a pool of filament that was not in the extrusion path which would be hot for tool long, and would degrade into a hard, burned mess.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Disassembling the hot end can be tricky.  The cold plastic is a great glue which has filled and sealed the threads.  Do not use the internal heater to heat it.  The wires will get in the way when you are taking it apart.  There can (will) be broken connections, and possibly uncontrolled heating.  Use a hot air gun or hair dryer to soften the plastic.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can not remove the heater and thermistor before taking it apart, find where they are connected to the electronics and disconnect them there.  Do not leave the wires connected.  The heater and thermistor are fragile, and too much bending or force on the wires will destroy them.  You might purchase spares because you are likely to damage one or both. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PLA softens at a relatively low temperature.  When you have a plastic encased mess, disconnected from the rest of the printer, you can soften the plastic either with hot air or hot water.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A &quot;relatively low tenperature&quot; can still give you serious burns.  Use gloves, pliers, toothpicks, and any other tools you need.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you reassemble the hot end, the nozzle should screw tightly against the upper tube that delivers the plastic.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Inspect the top of the nozzle and the bottom of the tube, and be sure they are flat, smooth, and are cut at a 90 degree angle to their axis.  They must fit together tightly, leaving no gap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One assembly order is recommended by E3D.  I mention them because they deserve credit, although I am embellishing with details they are unaware of, have not suggested, and are not responsible for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Start with all parts removed from the heater block (the rectangle of aluminum).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Screw the nozzle into the heater block, and then back it off 1/4 to 1/2 a turn.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Screw the top tube into the heater block until it is tight against the nozzle.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Assemble eerything else -- heater, thermister, wiring, attach to extruder, ...&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;With no plastic, heat the hot end from the control panel to be hotter than the hottest you will need when printing, maybe 250C if you are only printing PLA and ABS, and assure that it is heating normally.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;WITH THE HOT END HOT, tighten the nozzle with a wrench so that it is tight against the upper tube.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of the three objects in the hot end, the aluminum heater block has the highest coefficient of thermal expansion.  It is higher than both the steel upper tube and the brass nozzle.  The tendency as the hot end heats is to open a gap between the nozzle and the tube.  By making them tight at the highest temperature, they will also be tight at lower temperatures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the leak is fixed, you may be done, or there may be other problems to solve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Welcome to 3D Printing!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2082" LastEditorUserId="2082" LastEditDate="2018-08-29T13:19:11.947" LastActivityDate="2018-08-29T13:19:11.947" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6772" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6072" CreationDate="2018-08-28T19:23:39.263" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This has been sitting for a long time without an answer, so let me answer with an experience I've had with PETG rather than HIPS. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PETG seems to be a relatively soft plastic.  It isn't soft like TPU, but it is softer than PLA or ABS.  The HIPS filament (which I have but haven't used) appears to also be softer, so it is possible that my PETG problem could relate to your HIPS problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was printing and re-printing an object with PETG that had worked fine with PLA.  Three times in a row, I got a filament jam in about the same place.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem was that the filament was retracting, returning, retracting, and returning many times within a very small amount of extruded plastic.  My extruder was set for high pressure between the drive roller and the idler.  When the filament went back and forth through the extruder, it flattened enough that it would jam from being too wide to fit through the next stage (in my case, a Bowden tube).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I reduced the compression of the filament in the extruder, the problem stopped.  I also reduced the retraction distance, and increased the minimum travel before the slicer would do a retract.  Both were intended to reduce the number of times any single bit of filament would pass through the rollers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2082" LastActivityDate="2018-08-28T19:23:39.263" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6773" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6760" CreationDate="2018-08-28T19:36:47.123" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;No.  Not all 3D printers can print flexible material.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first place you will have trouble is in the extruder itself.  Flexible filament will find any way to escape from the confines of the rollers and the guide tube.  Any opening will allow the filament to buckle and find a new path.  It is common to find that the filament has filled any gaps inside the extruder, and wrapped itself tightly around the drive roller.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;@0scar describes this in &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/6761/5740&quot;&gt;his answer&lt;/a&gt;.  If the extruder does not have tight tolerances, with 1/4mm or less clearance between the drive roller on all sides, AND if there isn't a tube mated right up into the place where the filament is pressed between the drive roller and the idler, your extruder will fail to print Ninjaflex (a very flexible filament).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Oscar also mentions that Bowden feed doesn't work well.  It is fundamentally the same buckling problem.  There is always a gap around the filament inside the Bowden tube.  A stiff filament will rub at some points, but a soft filament will compress and ripple, filling the entire lumen inside the tube, and greatly increasing the friction.  Higher friction means more extruder pressure, so more buckling, more friction, and more failure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even if you are lucky and don't experience the run-away friction problem, the flexible filament is more compressible.  With a Bowden feed system, that compression must be preloaded at the beginning of each extrusion movement and relieved for each retraction.  With direct drive, the filament also compresses, but the amount of filament is much less, so the compression is less, and the problems are less.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2082" LastEditorUserId="2082" LastEditDate="2023-12-15T22:00:26.067" LastActivityDate="2023-12-15T22:00:26.067" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6774" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6750" CreationDate="2018-08-29T11:45:06.327" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;From your linked photo, it appears that the feeder tube is not well-seated in the hotend (heater block). That's why the leak -- the tube should be in firm contact with the top of the nozzle.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I'm not sure how to adjust that with your system, but as a minimum try screwing the feeder tube down farther into the hotend and, if possible, screw the nozzle deeper in as well.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;By comparison, my Prusa clone has space for a seating nut on the feeder tube, and by seating that tightly onto the hotend, I can avoid that sort of leak. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2191" LastActivityDate="2018-08-29T11:45:06.327" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6776" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5232" CreationDate="2018-08-29T13:02:11.603" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This diagram would appear to show the connections to the controller board. Taken from &lt;a href=&quot;https://hackaday.io/page/1569-3d-printer-sunhokey-prusa-i3-2015-review&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;3D Printer: Sunhokey prusa i3 2015 review&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6iKdC.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Hardware connect&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6iKdC.png&quot; alt=&quot;Hardware connect&quot; title=&quot;Hardware connect&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Refer to Mark's answer for what axis/component each stepper motor controls.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4762" LastActivityDate="2018-08-29T13:02:11.603" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6777" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4256" CreationDate="2018-08-29T15:25:07.353" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Another answer that does exactly what you want involves the use of a print server. A print server is an application that runs the instructions to the printer over a USB connection from another device, this can be your computer/laptop, or a dedicated &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.raspberrypi.org/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Raspberry Pi&lt;/a&gt; (a small and affordable computer). One such application described here further is &lt;a href=&quot;https://octoprint.org/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;OctoPrint&lt;/a&gt; (this may very well be done with other applications, but this needs to be checked first!), this print server application allows integration of many third party plug-ins next to the extensive feature set it already has out-of-the-box. One such feature is &lt;code&gt;GCODE scripts&lt;/code&gt; (intently spelled this way to match the option in the Octoprint settings menu); this screenshot shows some details:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FZIeq.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FZIeq.png&quot; alt=&quot;GCODE scripts menu options item&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As can be seen from the image, there are specific &quot;events&quot; available to process G-code commands at specific event occurences like e.g. just before the print starts. You could use that envent to insert your leveling commands.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please note that in the image you will find strange G-code commands like &lt;code&gt;OCTO100&lt;/code&gt; and &lt;code&gt;OCTO110&lt;/code&gt; which is a feature of the plugin called &quot;GCODE System Commands&quot; which allows running shell scripts to schedule the fan. I just kill the power to the fan when the printer is idle to get rid of the noise when the printer is just idling, the fan is only needed when the hotend is at elevated temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-08-29T16:39:13.780" LastActivityDate="2018-08-29T16:39:13.780" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6778" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6801" CreationDate="2018-08-29T16:45:04.900" Score="4" ViewCount="2280" Body="&lt;p&gt;When running &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Marlin Firmware&lt;/a&gt;, is it possible to run &lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/wiki/G-code&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;G-code&lt;/a&gt; scripts/series of commands automatically when you insert the SD card?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm running Marlin on a 3D printer board using an ATmega 2560 based board with a reprap discount LCD controller with an SD card slot. I would like to do this without the need to add another computer/board, so native from the board running the Marlin Firmware.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-08-29T20:44:45.740" LastActivityDate="2021-09-06T03:25:04.873" Title="Can G-code scripts be run automatically on inserting an SD card when using Marlin Firmware?" Tags="|marlin|g-code|firmware|scripts|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6779" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3967" CreationDate="2018-08-29T20:12:58.447" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A more recent version of Marlin Firmware (&lt;em&gt;version 1.1.9 is the last release of this branch, new developments are done in the 2.x branch&lt;/em&gt;) nowadays has a separate board constant for the MKS BASE v1.5 board (&lt;code&gt;BOARD_MKS_BASE_15&lt;/code&gt;) as can be found in &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/blob/1.1.x/Marlin/boards.h&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;boards.h&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The following line quotes the constant for this board from the file:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;code&gt;#define BOARD_MKS_BASE_15       405   // MKS v1.5 with Allegro A4982 stepper drivers&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-01-10T07:41:18.953" LastActivityDate="2019-01-10T07:41:18.953" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6780" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4084" CreationDate="2018-08-29T20:20:34.277" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Thing-O-Matic which included a thermal fuse above the heat break.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For my home-brew printer (a large delta machine) I have a smoke alarm and a fire alarm mounted under the top of the print volume.  These are wired together and give me a NO and NC dry contact.  My plan is to connect this to a power kill circuit.  I haven't found a good way to flood the entire machine, including the electronics, with CO2 gas or another extinguisher when the alarm sounds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've added some additional information on parts purchasable on DigiKey:&#xA;The &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/cantherm/SDF-DF152S/317-1136-ND/1014765&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;first&lt;/a&gt; is a 10 A, 152 C thermal fuse rated for line voltage.  This would be appropriate for bonding to a heated bed.&#xA;The &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/littelfuse-inc/RTP200HR010SA/RTP200HR010SA-ND/5410412&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;second&lt;/a&gt; is rated to trip at 260 C.&#xA;Both of these are less than $1.50 each.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2082" LastEditorUserId="2082" LastEditDate="2019-06-17T16:22:37.280" LastActivityDate="2019-06-17T16:22:37.280" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6783" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6747" CreationDate="2018-08-30T15:52:35.077" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Sadly, this isnt true:&lt;/strong&gt; &quot;&lt;em&gt;I finally found the solution! It was the spring being slightly too loose at the feeder. That was it. Such a small thing. I thought that I checked it at least twice.&lt;/em&gt;&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I bought a new Hotend for my 3D-Printer. I hope that solves the problem. I think that the PTFE Tube doesnt sit tightly on the nozzle so that some filament leaks through. And maybe the fan doesnt work properly. At least I can say that the problem is the Hotend. -the cooling of the filament I guess. Thats because the filament always became larger near the nozzle because it melted. That's also the reason why it was so hard to pull out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user12769" LastEditorDisplayName="user12769" LastEditDate="2018-09-07T13:09:48.680" LastActivityDate="2018-09-07T13:09:48.680" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6784" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6786" CreationDate="2018-08-30T16:30:23.963" Score="10" ViewCount="26354" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've heard I should store filament in sealed container, preferably with a desiccant. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But let's say I let a spool get a little old on the printer, or I purchased a filament spool that was old or improperly packaged. How would I know? How would this impact prints (what kind of symptoms would I see)? What things could I do (perhaps in the slicer) to correct for this and prolong the life of marginal filament?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And the corollary... in a typical environment, how long can filament be left out without suffering from the exposure?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm thinking mainly about PLA, but responses for ABS and other materials are useful, too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12562" LastEditorUserId="12562" LastEditDate="2018-08-30T18:44:52.127" LastActivityDate="2018-09-23T14:26:12.937" Title="How do I know when filament is getting old, and what things can I do to correct for it?" Tags="|pla|filament-quality|storage|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6786" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6784" CreationDate="2018-08-30T21:28:01.007" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;The primary issue with long-term exposure of filament to the environment is that it will absorb water moisture from the air. When a filament that has absorbed water is passing though the hot end of a printer, the water will turn to steam and cause problems with extrusion:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Small bubbles of steam can form, causing extrusion to sputter - you might hear a sizzling noise and have poor consistency.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Large steam bubbles can cause significant oozing followed by no extrusion.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Extreme cases can cause mysterious jams that seem to clear themselves (the extruder cannot overcome the steam pressure).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In short, this will cause terrible print quality and failed prints. As the effects are not consistent, there is nothing that can be done by slicer settings to &quot;recalibrate&quot; for filament that has absorbed water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This can be avoided by storing filament in an air-tight container with desiccant to ensure low humidity. Some people use &quot;dry boxes&quot; that allow the spool to be mounted inside while filament can be passed to the printer, so there is minimal exposure even while the spool is in use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do suspect that your filament has absorbed moisture, you can dry it out, by placing the spool in a warm oven or in a food dehydrator for a few hours. If you weight it before and after, you should find that it weighs several grams less afterwards. &lt;strong&gt;WARNING:&lt;/strong&gt; It is important that the temperature does not soften the plastic at all, or it can become distorted or bind on the spool. Most ovens will peak well above the set temperature as the thermostat cycles. Of course, fully melting a roll of filament could destroy your oven or cause a fire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's hard to say how much environmental exposure is too much, as every filament and environment is different. When I started out, I had several spools of PLA that I stored in the open for months. I didn't think I was having any problems, but I was also learning much and improving my printer settings at the same time. After getting PETG, it became unusable with oozing and jams after about two weeks but a few hours in my oven was a miracle cure! I then dried some PLA as well, and I found that print quality did improve, but not amazingly so. I have not used ABS, but in theory it is less hygroscopic than PLA, so it is probably not very sensitive to exposure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I set up a dry storage box, and I am careful to always store PETG or my &quot;good&quot; PLA when I'm not actively using it. I have a couple rolls of PLA that I don't like as much anyway and generally just use for draft prints, and I don't really worry about it that much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: An object that has been printed will also absorb moisture, but in general this isn't a problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5704" LastActivityDate="2018-08-30T21:28:01.007" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6788" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6784" CreationDate="2018-08-30T22:53:24.417" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Moisture creeps into the filament when PLA is exposed for a long time to a humid environment. This is audible like popping bubbles when heated in the hotend and does worsen the print quality. The moisture causes a noticeable property as it breaks the long molecular chains of the thermoplastic material. Once this has happened, its effect is irreversible. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The effects of this moisture breaking the long molecular chains results in a more brittle filament; it can even snap during feeding, leading to unpleasant results like unfinished prints. If the filament snaps/breaks when you bend it, instead of folding, your filament has taken up moisture.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="12562" LastEditDate="2018-08-31T17:00:19.180" LastActivityDate="2018-08-31T17:00:19.180" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6793" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6795" CreationDate="2018-08-31T12:52:27.280" Score="-3" ViewCount="83" Body="&lt;p&gt;What about the strength parameters?&#xA;Where can I give CAD models to print them and receive them?&#xA;Please guide me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12818" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2018-09-16T12:36:38.760" LastActivityDate="2018-09-16T12:36:38.760" Title="Can 3d-printing be used to print drone frames which carry around 4 kilograms?" Tags="|print-quality|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ClosedDate="2018-08-31T15:59:28.530" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6794" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6797" CreationDate="2018-08-31T15:23:36.763" Score="6" ViewCount="6337" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had recently purchased an ender 3 and after setting it up and plugging it in, I received an electrical shock from the power supply. I live in the UK and so I was provided an EU to UK adapter which I used and I set the voltage to 230&amp;nbsp;V.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know why I was shocked and if there is any solution? Was it because EU to UK isn’t grounded (or am I wrong)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would an older 10 amp monitor power cable work better as it’s grounded? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12820" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2020-05-11T20:37:46.073" LastActivityDate="2020-09-25T20:47:05.650" Title="Electric shock from ender 3 printer PSU" Tags="|creality-ender-3|electronics|safety|" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6795" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6793" CreationDate="2018-08-31T15:34:22.277" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, no problem! But this does not depend on the production process, it depends on the design. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not only the production process (adhesion in Z direction is usually weaker than X or Y) should be taken into account, but also the choice of material. Even carbon fibre doped filaments (nylon or PLA) exist (harder to print however, due to excessive wear of the nozzle by the carbon fibres). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also consider using carbon fiber tubes, and only print the connectors/mounts to connect the tubes to the engine mounts and main body mount.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Basically, your question is not specific enough and boils down to a &quot;How do I design a drone frame&quot; or &quot;What are the main design issues for designing a drone frame&quot;, which should be asked in an other forum. Once you have a design you could change your question and ask for specifics regarding printing the parts using FDM (e.g. orientation, positioning, materials, etc.).&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-08-31T19:24:30.657" LastActivityDate="2018-08-31T19:24:30.657" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6796" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6794" CreationDate="2018-08-31T15:40:52.113" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &quot;shock&quot; is likely from noise filtering circuitry at the power supply's input. For filtering, every power supply has a small capacitor that connects the live input wire to ground (a so-called &quot;class Y capacitor&quot;). A small amount of current can flow through this capacitor, which can give an annoying, but otherwise harmless shock/tingle. Grounding the power supply would solve the problem (which you should do anyways, because it is dangerous to run electronics that are supposed to be grounded without ground).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastActivityDate="2018-08-31T15:40:52.113" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6797" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6794" CreationDate="2018-08-31T16:11:07.403" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;You need to take particular care when using plug adaptors - they are not always made to a high standard, and it is possible that the earth connection is not present. If you suspect that the earth connection won't allow a 13 A fuse to blow, it would be good to destroy the adaptor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A simple cable (without adaptor) will be better, but is unlikely to solve the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should also check if your mains supply uses an earth-leakage protection circuit (any modern installation must, but your house may predate this legislation).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4927" LastActivityDate="2018-08-31T16:11:07.403" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6798" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-08-31T17:52:14.807" Score="2" ViewCount="1075" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a delta robot 3D printer, but I have no clue how to calibrate it. Any advice?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12774" LastActivityDate="2018-08-31T20:40:19.823" Title="How do you calibrate a delta robot 3D printer?" Tags="|diy-3d-printer|delta|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2018-09-07T16:10:25.023" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6799" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6794" CreationDate="2018-08-31T18:35:38.160" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;An electric shock from a PSU usually means that either the PSU is wired up incorrectly, or the PSU is wired to an ungrounded spot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Often, Adapters are not grounded or sloppily made. Get yourself a cable with the same ampere rating as the one you want to replace which has a UK plug. If this does not solve the grounding problem, you need to check if the ground wire in the PSU is mounted correctly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can't get a cable rated the same, either use a higher rated one or change the plug on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2018-08-31T19:29:47.427" LastActivityDate="2018-08-31T19:29:47.427" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6800" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6798" CreationDate="2018-08-31T18:36:13.433" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This answer below is (partially) taken from &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6016/delta-printer-nozzle-not-moving-square-with-a-perfectly-level-bed-as-if-the-bed/6710#6710&quot;&gt;my answer&lt;/a&gt; to &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6016/delta-printer-nozzle-not-moving-square-with-a-perfectly-level-bed-as-if-the-bed&quot;&gt;Delta printer nozzle not moving square with a perfectly level bed (as if the bed is bent... but it isn&amp;#39;t)&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whilst the answer below is for a Kossel, assuming that you are using Marlin, then the process &lt;em&gt;should be&lt;/em&gt; more or less the same.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Calibration on any printer is difficult, but especially so on deltas, as there construction is more complex than a cartesian printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Have you manually calibrated the printer (at both the center and the edges), such that you can just about get a sheet of paper between the print bed and the hotend nozzle, at z = 0? This last check ensures that the first printed layer of extruded filament is actually touching and &quot;presses on&quot; to the print bed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I seriously recommend that you watch this video &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QuEhQU8vGZk&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;#18:Calibration&lt;/a&gt; for a great explanation on the use of the paper. This video is for a Delta printer, a Kossel XL (although the Kossel Mini is also covered) and it clearly demonstrates the height that the zeroed print head should be at, and how to check using a sheet paper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is an hour long tutorial video, by Tom of BuildA3DPrinter.eu, and it shows you step-by-step how to calibrate the printer, and also how to deal with deformed beds (concave/convex). It uses:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Arduino IDE&lt;/strong&gt;, and;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Pronterface&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and performs the calibration by adjusting, in the firmware:&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;code&gt;MANUAL_HOME_Z_POS&lt;/code&gt;, and;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;code&gt;DELTA_SMOOTH_ROD_OFFSET&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a run down of the video's contents:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QuEhQU8vGZk&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;0:00&lt;/a&gt; Intro: The perfect first layer can be obtained, either with/without a probe (the printer is, arguably, better without probe) This tutorial is &lt;em&gt;without&lt;/em&gt; the probe. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QuEhQU8vGZk&amp;amp;t=55&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;0:55&lt;/a&gt; Arduino software loaded with Marlin firmware source, looking at the file &lt;code&gt;configuration.h&lt;/code&gt; and in particular, the line &lt;code&gt;#define MANUAL_HOME_Z_POS&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QuEhQU8vGZk&amp;amp;t=170&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;2:30&lt;/a&gt; - Ensure that the Pronterface USB port is disconnected as otherwise this will inhibit the Arduino IDE from connecting to the printer.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QuEhQU8vGZk&amp;amp;t=200&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;3:20&lt;/a&gt; - Initial test - Gap at the center of the bed&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Connect with Pronterface and use the following G-code commands&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;code&gt;G28&lt;/code&gt; Home the printer head&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;code&gt;G1 Z10&lt;/code&gt; Bring the head down...&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;code&gt;G1 Z5&lt;/code&gt; a bit more...&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;code&gt;G1 Z4&lt;/code&gt; a bit more...&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;code&gt;G1 Z3&lt;/code&gt; a bit more...&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;code&gt;G1 Z2&lt;/code&gt; a bit more...&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;code&gt;G1 Z1&lt;/code&gt; and if the head hits bed then this is too close&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;code&gt;G1 Z2&lt;/code&gt; raise the head again&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Paper thickness is 100 microns, place under the head&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;code&gt;G1 Z1.5&lt;/code&gt; lower the head again, but no by so much as before&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Slide the paper between head and bed. The paper should move freely, but with some friction felt (you should be able to hear the head lightly rubbing against the paper)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QuEhQU8vGZk&amp;amp;t=431&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;7:11&lt;/a&gt; - Deduction of actual distance from print bed is 1.5 mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QuEhQU8vGZk&amp;amp;t=450&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;7:30&lt;/a&gt; Return to firmware, and finely tune &lt;code&gt;MANUAL_HOME_Z_POS&lt;/code&gt; in the Arduino IDE, disconnecting Pronterface again and upload.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QuEhQU8vGZk&amp;amp;t=490&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;8:10&lt;/a&gt; - Return to printer &#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Connect with Pronterface, again, and use the following G-code commands&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;code&gt;G28&lt;/code&gt; Home&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;code&gt;G1 Z5 F5000&lt;/code&gt; Move head down rapidly&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;code&gt;G1 Z2&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;code&gt;G1 Z1&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;code&gt;G1 Z0&lt;/code&gt; and the head comes to a rest at the correct distance from the bed&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Retest with the paper&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QuEhQU8vGZk&amp;amp;t=570&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;9:30&lt;/a&gt; Final test&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;code&gt;G28&lt;/code&gt; Home&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;code&gt;G1 Z0&lt;/code&gt; Go from home straight down to the bottom&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QuEhQU8vGZk&amp;amp;t=602&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;10:02&lt;/a&gt; - Further calibration&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;code&gt;G1 Z0.2&lt;/code&gt; Raise head ever so slightly to give us some room&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In Pronterface - Move the head horizontally&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;code&gt;G1 X50&lt;/code&gt; - Moves head 50 mm to the right&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;In this case&lt;/em&gt;, if there is a larger gap between the head and the bed. This means that the bed is curved, and &lt;strong&gt;convex&lt;/strong&gt;. If the gap was smaller, or the head hits the bed, then the bed is &lt;strong&gt;concave&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QuEhQU8vGZk&amp;amp;t=700&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;11:40&lt;/a&gt; - Diagram of convex and concave print beds&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QuEhQU8vGZk&amp;amp;t=730&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;12:10&lt;/a&gt; - Endstops&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;code&gt;G1 X-40&lt;/code&gt; Moves the head to the left (of center) and the head is now &lt;em&gt;further&lt;/em&gt; away from the bed than in the middle. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QuEhQU8vGZk&amp;amp;t=800&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;13:20&lt;/a&gt; - This means that the endstops are not correctly positioned. So, before tackling the concave/convex issue, it is first necessary to adjust the endstops, for each tower.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QuEhQU8vGZk&amp;amp;t=817&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;13:37&lt;/a&gt; - Tackling the &lt;em&gt;tower&lt;/em&gt; positions individually&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;code&gt;G1 Z10&lt;/code&gt; For safety reasons, leave a margin of 1 cm.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QuEhQU8vGZk&amp;amp;t=848&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;14:08&lt;/a&gt; - Calibrating the X tower (left tower). &lt;strong&gt;Note&lt;/strong&gt;: The commands will depend on whether you have the Kossel or the Mini.&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Printer moves in three axes: &#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;X: parallel (to the front);&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Y: perpendicular (to the front);&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Z: height (not of interest at this point).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;X tower is not in either of these axes &lt;em&gt;exactly&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;code&gt;G1 X-100&lt;/code&gt; Moves the head to the side but 6 cm away from the X tower&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;code&gt;G1 X-100 Y-60&lt;/code&gt; Positions the head next to the tower correctly&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;code&gt;G1 Z5&lt;/code&gt; - Lower the head bit by bit&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;code&gt;G1 Z2&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;code&gt;G1 Z1&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;code&gt;G1 Z0&lt;/code&gt; and the head is still 1 mm too high&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QuEhQU8vGZk&amp;amp;t=1010&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;16:50&lt;/a&gt; Endstop needs to be adjusted by 1 mm &lt;em&gt;lower&lt;/em&gt;. There are two ways of doing this:&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lower the endstop itself - good for large changes&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Adjust the screw - good for smaller adjustments. Turn it anti-clockwise, and raise the screw by 1 mm.&#xA;-&lt;code&gt;G28&lt;/code&gt; Home&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;code&gt;G1 Z10&lt;/code&gt; Bring head down 1 cm above bed&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Move to the tower:&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;XL: &lt;code&gt;G1 X-100 Y-60&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mini &lt;code&gt;G1 X-60 Y-35&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;code&gt;G1 Z2&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;code&gt;G1 Z1&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;code&gt;G1 Z0&lt;/code&gt; Head hits the bed&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;code&gt;G1 Z0.2&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;So the end stop needs to be &lt;em&gt;raised&lt;/em&gt; by 0.2 mm, by re-adjusting the screw (turning it clockwise).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Now home it the head, &lt;code&gt;G28&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;And bring it down &lt;code&gt;G1 X-100 Y-60 Z0&lt;/code&gt; and it should not hit the glass and the paper should slide underneath&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QuEhQU8vGZk&amp;amp;t=1260&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;21:00&lt;/a&gt; Minor re-adjustment and fine tuning so that the paper slides without the need a too much force.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QuEhQU8vGZk&amp;amp;t=1310&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;21:50&lt;/a&gt; Repeat for each tower&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QuEhQU8vGZk&amp;amp;t=1335&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;22:15&lt;/a&gt; Y Tower (right tower)&#xA;-&lt;code&gt;G28&lt;/code&gt; Home&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;code&gt;G1 Z10&lt;/code&gt; Bring head down 1 cm above bed&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Move to the tower:&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;XL: &lt;code&gt;G1 X100 Y-60&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mini &lt;code&gt;G1 X60 Y-35&lt;/code&gt; &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Repeat the above process - remember to test with &lt;code&gt;G28&lt;/code&gt; and &lt;code&gt;G1 X100 Y-60 Z1&lt;/code&gt; for safety, and &lt;em&gt;then&lt;/em&gt; adjust the Z command&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;This is an iterative process&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QuEhQU8vGZk&amp;amp;t=1684&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;28:04&lt;/a&gt; - Z Tower (rear tower)&#xA;-&lt;code&gt;G28&lt;/code&gt; Home&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;code&gt;G1 Z10&lt;/code&gt; Bring head down 1 cm above bed&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Move to the tower:&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;XL: &lt;code&gt;G1 X0 Y120&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mini &lt;code&gt;G1 X0 Y70&lt;/code&gt; &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Repeat above process&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QuEhQU8vGZk&amp;amp;t=1814&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;30:14&lt;/a&gt; Re-check! each position (center, X, Y and Z towers)&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;code&gt;G28&lt;/code&gt; Home&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;code&gt;G1 X0 Y120 Z0&lt;/code&gt; Check Z tower &amp;amp; drop head (head should not touch the bed)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;code&gt;G1 Z10&lt;/code&gt; Raise head (see below)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;code&gt;G1 X-100 Y-60&lt;/code&gt; Move to X tower&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;code&gt;G1 Z0&lt;/code&gt; Drop head (head should not touch the bed)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;code&gt;G1 Z10&lt;/code&gt; Raise head (see below)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;code&gt;G1 X100 Y-60&lt;/code&gt;  Move to Y tower&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;code&gt;G1 Z0&lt;/code&gt; Drop head (head should not touch the bed)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Calibration of the endstops is now complete&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QuEhQU8vGZk&amp;amp;t=1890&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;31:30&lt;/a&gt; Why the &lt;code&gt;Z10&lt;/code&gt;?&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;code&gt;G1 Z10&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;code&gt;G1 X0 Y0&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The first calibration was the center point, but now the endstops have changed and as the bed is either convex or concave, we therefore raised the head by 1 cm, using the &lt;code&gt;Z10&lt;/code&gt;, to avoid hitting the bed in the center. Now test it&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;code&gt;G1 Z2&lt;/code&gt; Lower head slightly&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;code&gt;G1 Z1&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;code&gt;G1 Z0&lt;/code&gt; If the bed is concave then the head is still too high! Conversely, if the bed is convex the the head will hit the bed.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QuEhQU8vGZk&amp;amp;t=1960&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;32:40&lt;/a&gt; Adjusting the &lt;code&gt;DELTA_SMOOTH_ROD_OFFSET&lt;/code&gt; in &lt;code&gt;configuration.h&lt;/code&gt; - alter the physical parameter of the printer:&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Convex: Increasing &lt;code&gt;DELTA_SMOOTH_ROD_OFFSET&lt;/code&gt; lowers the hotend in the center&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Concave: Decreasing &lt;code&gt;DELTA_SMOOTH_ROD_OFFSET&lt;/code&gt; raises the hotend in the center&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Adjust the setting in the Arduino IDE and recompile and upload (ensure that Pronterface is disconnected)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QuEhQU8vGZk&amp;amp;t=2107&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;35:07&lt;/a&gt; Testing the new &lt;code&gt;DELTA_SMOOTH_ROD_OFFSET&lt;/code&gt; setting - again in Pronterface:&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;code&gt;G28&lt;/code&gt; - As the firmware has changed, we must re-home.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;code&gt;G1 X0 Y0 Z0&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You will notice the the center point &lt;em&gt;has not changed&lt;/em&gt;! It is the same. However if you go to the tower positions you will see that the (previously) perfect gap &lt;em&gt;has&lt;/em&gt; changed. This is because by changing the &lt;code&gt;DELTA_SMOOTH_ROD_OFFSET&lt;/code&gt; the &lt;em&gt;center stays in the same place but the edges change instead&lt;/em&gt;. So, for the convex bed, we have &lt;em&gt;virtually&lt;/em&gt; bent the surface, without moving the center point down, and moved the rim up (or, for a concave bed, down - depending upon the direction of the adjustment), thereby flattening the bed.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QuEhQU8vGZk&amp;amp;t=2230&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;37:10&lt;/a&gt; Demonstration of adjustment&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QuEhQU8vGZk&amp;amp;t=2271&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;37:51&lt;/a&gt; Adjusting the height&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Return to the firmware and change, again, the &lt;code&gt;#define MANUAL_HOME_Z_POS&lt;/code&gt; line that we changed at the beginning, adjusting it by the amount that the head is from the center point. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Disconnect Pronterface and upload the new adjusted firmware. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Then reconnect Pronterface, and Home (&lt;code&gt;G28&lt;/code&gt;) and drop to zero (&lt;code&gt;G1 Z0&lt;/code&gt;). &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The head may still a little &lt;em&gt;too high&lt;/em&gt;. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Then move to the tower, and the head may be &lt;em&gt;too close&lt;/em&gt; to the bed, without any gap. This means that the bed is still convex and further adjustment is required of the &lt;code&gt;DELTA_SMOOTH_ROD_OFFSET&lt;/code&gt; and then, obviously, the &lt;code&gt;MANUAL_HOME_Z_POS&lt;/code&gt;. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Again, this is a bit of an iterative process. Don't forget to home after any firmware updates.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Finally once the bed is flat (i.e. it has been virtually flattened in the software) and the gap between the head and the bed is the same at the center and the towers, then adjust &lt;code&gt;MANUAL_HOME_Z_POS&lt;/code&gt; (an adjustment of 0.05 or less may be required) to get the paper test just perfect.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QuEhQU8vGZk&amp;amp;t=2675&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;44:35&lt;/a&gt; Check each tower (screw adjustment, of the endstops, may be required). As the bed has been flattened, mechanical sub 0.1 mm adjustments may be required. &lt;strong&gt;Note&lt;/strong&gt; that the firmware &lt;em&gt;does not&lt;/em&gt; need to be re-uploaded, when making mechanical changes - although the head will always need to be re-homed (&lt;code&gt;G28&lt;/code&gt;) after each change.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The head should now be at the correct height.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QuEhQU8vGZk&amp;amp;t=2834&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;47:14&lt;/a&gt; - Extruder Calibration&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4762" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-08-31T20:40:19.823" LastActivityDate="2018-08-31T20:40:19.823" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6801" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6778" CreationDate="2018-08-31T22:52:14.413" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am not &lt;em&gt;entirely sure&lt;/em&gt; if this is what you are after, or if it will work, but from  &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/issues/2891#issuecomment-180980733&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this post&lt;/a&gt; on &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/issues/2891&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Printing From SD Card when printer is turned On&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While an LCD controller is not needed for auto#.g to work, if you have an LCD controller you can use the &lt;code&gt;MENU_ADDAUTOSTART&lt;/code&gt; option to add a menu command that will run the auto0.g, auto1.g, auto2.g whenever you want.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This (final) post ended up closing the thread so it appears to answer the OP's question - however, whether it will answer your question is another matter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?415,833394&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;This post&lt;/a&gt;, on the Marlin forum, replicates your question and asks about purely insertion of an SD card on a printer which is &lt;em&gt;already&lt;/em&gt; powered on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?415,833394,833489#msg-833489&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;A reply&lt;/a&gt; was received and apparently it should be possible by making a code change in &lt;code&gt;ultralcd.ccp&lt;/code&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It does not seem like an auto print, when inserting a SD-card, is to&#xA;be found in the current program code of Marlin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might consider making a feature request here: [&lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/issues&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;github.com&lt;/a&gt;]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do not think that it would require much work to implement a&#xA;&amp;quot;card.autoprintfile()&amp;quot; function in Marlin. It seems to me that a call&#xA;to such a function could happen at line 5172 right after:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;else&#xA;LCD_MESSAGEPGM(MSG_SD_INSERTED);&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;in the file &lt;code&gt;ultralcd.ccp&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A subsequent feature request has been made on Marlin's GitHub, see &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/issues/11815&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;[FR] Can G-code scripts be run automatically on inserting an SD card when using Marlin Firmware?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, from &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/issues/11815#issuecomment-420791259&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this reply&lt;/a&gt;, it appears that a feature request is already pending:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not in favor of this as a general feature. We already have a&#xA;feature request to be able to run custom G-code in response to various&#xA;events, with SD card insertion being one of those events. Would that&#xA;feature serve your needs?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, as yet, I do not have a link to this other feature request. Will update as and when.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As an aside, in might be worth mentioning that the SDFat related code could be the place to code this in, see &lt;a href=&quot;https://forum.arduino.cc/index.php?topic=360754.0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;if SD card removed, how to flag and restart?&lt;/a&gt;, although after looking at the Marlin codebase, in particular &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/blob/1.1.x/Marlin/SdFatUtil.cpp&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;code&gt;SdFatUtils.cpp&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/a&gt;, this would appear to be a &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Red_herring&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;red herring&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4762" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2021-09-06T03:25:04.873" LastActivityDate="2021-09-06T03:25:04.873" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6802" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6751" CreationDate="2018-08-31T23:12:31.440" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Basically there are two problems to address: first - bed inclination and second - uneven bed surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are different algorithms dealing with one or both problems.&#xA;Most specialists insist that bed should be flat and most people use glass as the top to achieve this. And this eliminates second problem and require to solve only the first one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To find bed inclination - autolevel algorithm usually do three points test and get transformation matrix. This matrix then used to transform XY motion to be parallel to the surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For uneven bed surface more complex algorithms used. But usually bilinear mesh used that could be looked as the whole square surface subdivided into smaller ones with individual inclinations. Basically algorithm from XY coordinates determines the sub-square and then applies corresponded transformation for it's inclination.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The transformation fade out with the Z going up and usually applied within first 10mm over the bed level.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is UBL (Universal Bed Leveling) algorithm that deals with two problems simultaneously. Only once it probes the whole bed with many points to produce two dimensional mesh to address second problem.&#xA;And for each next auto level it does three points test to find the whole bed inclination. Then it combines measured inclination with the mesh information stored in memory. UBL assumes that surface do not change but only it's inclination could change.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In all cases this is all about to guarantee that the first levels of filament will lay on the bed evenly and will stick to it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11199" LastActivityDate="2018-08-31T23:12:31.440" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6803" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-09-01T04:44:53.307" Score="7" ViewCount="4083" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an MKS Base 1.4 board with a TFT28 touch screen and a Titan Aero setup.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I use the load filament command from the touch screen the motor turns at a crazy speed to load filament, whereas if I plug in my laptop and use Repetier host and send a load command it turns at a normal speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a section in the Marlin firmware that allows me to set the actual extruding speed during load and unload?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12822" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-09-01T07:16:52.990" LastActivityDate="2018-09-04T10:24:48.893" Title="Extruder feedrate when loading and unloading filament" Tags="|marlin|extrusion|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6804" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-09-01T10:49:52.933" Score="5" ViewCount="5222" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an Adventurer 3 printer from Flashforge and every time I unclog it, it gets clogged up again. I’ve done about 6 or 7 prints with it. So after I unclog it, I load the filament and it comes out of the nozzle like it should but once I start a 3D print, it’s clogged again. The process of what I do to unclog it is by heating the nozzle up and then shove a small metal rod down the nozzle to push out the clogged filament. I do this several times until its all gone. I’ve read up on what I can do to prevent it but it doesn’t seem to work. What should I do? &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WT9Cg.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1zjzA.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12824" LastEditorUserId="150" LastEditDate="2018-10-23T12:19:05.170" LastActivityDate="2020-03-20T08:45:45.367" Title="Extruder/nozzle keeps clogging up" Tags="|nozzle|flashforge-adventurer-3|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6806" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-09-02T03:58:35.590" Score="3" ViewCount="1192" Body="&lt;p&gt;I need help with finding what properties or designs I need to look for. I know that I will need these characteristics to work with the material of my choice:  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Can reach 300&amp;nbsp;°C or up&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Can handle nozzle size larger than 1&amp;nbsp;mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Can be used with polycarbonate filament&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I plan to use it in a custom RAMPS 1.4 3D printer running the Marlin firmware, in case this changes something. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12830" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-09-03T15:27:48.673" LastActivityDate="2018-09-03T15:27:48.673" Title="Hot end considerations for 300+ °C and greater than 1 mm nozzle size for polycarbonate" Tags="|extruder|diy-3d-printer|hotend|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6807" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6826" CreationDate="2018-09-02T09:07:26.637" Score="5" ViewCount="8050" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have printed a couple weeks perfectly fine with my Ender 3. Two weeks ago I changed the firmware but the settings were all fine and resulted in good prints.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, suddenly &lt;em&gt;during&lt;/em&gt; a print the extruder motor started to under-extrude.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I thought &quot;hey, could be the file&quot; and used a test file that printed well two weeks ago: Under-extrusion, barely a line.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I looked at the extruder, no filament grinding, no clicking from lost steps or moving against pressure. The Bowden tube is firmly seated though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I measured what is coming out: instead of 50&amp;nbsp;mm I ordered to push into the hotend got 28.7&amp;nbsp;mm. So I went and looked at the steps/mm, which is 93, exactly what it is also on the TronXY X1, which uses pretty much the same extruder setup but for a different style, same sized gear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I cleaned out the nozzle nevertheless, but that didn't change the results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What might be wrong and how can I fix it?!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Touching the filament while I was printing a freshly sliced test, I realized it DID lose steps, just the filament did slip back (almost) quietly. Pressing a finger on the filament made me able to feel the shiver in it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Inspecting what was printed showed, that the nozzle had migrated against the print platform a little over the weeks.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-09-06T21:43:27.263" LastActivityDate="2018-09-06T21:46:46.733" Title="Sudden underextrusion on Ender3" Tags="|extruder|print-quality|creality-ender-3|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6808" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6807" CreationDate="2018-09-02T09:27:23.017" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sounds similar to something I experienced with my Y-axis. The grub screw on the toothed wheel had come a little loose, and I was experiencing a reasonably consistent degree of slip.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the extruder particularly, these locking screws might not be too obvious to check.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4927" LastActivityDate="2018-09-02T09:27:23.017" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6810" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6804" CreationDate="2018-09-02T16:33:19.893" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Flashforge documentation is not much help, so unless there's a way for you to connect with their user community (because, maybe what you're dealing with is a known issue related to firmware or the machine itself) or Flashforge's customer service folks, you've got some fun detective work ahead of you. Seriously--you will enjoy solving this!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So: It will help to teach yourself the ABC's of clog symptoms, so you can see what the cause(s) &lt;em&gt;could&lt;/em&gt; and &lt;em&gt;couldn't&lt;/em&gt; be, in your situation. This is &lt;a href=&quot;https://rigid.ink/blogs/news/clogged-extruder-nozzle-what-causes-it-how-to-avoid-it-and-how-to-fix-it&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;not a bad starter guide&lt;/a&gt;, and there are lots of others. You say you've &quot;read up&quot; on preventive measures--that's great! When your original post says, &quot;but it doesn’t seem to work,&quot; please understand, though, that we who read don't yet know what &quot;it&quot; &lt;em&gt;means&lt;/em&gt;, in this case. Clarity &amp;amp; details are you friends here. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12835" LastActivityDate="2018-09-02T16:33:19.893" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6811" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6803" CreationDate="2018-09-02T19:29:20.837" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Loading and unloading filament through the &lt;a href=&quot;http://marlinfw.org/docs/features/lcd_menu.html#prepare&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;LCD options&lt;/a&gt; is taking care of by &lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#M600:_Filament_change_pause&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;G-code&lt;/a&gt; command &lt;a href=&quot;http://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M600.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;M600&lt;/a&gt;. The options used when executing the M600 command define where the head goes and how much filament is extruded of which extruder. Apparently, there is a difference in calling the M600 command via the LCD menu or (un)loading filament through the Repetier application. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Firmware-based and LCD-controlled retract &lt;a href=&quot;http://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M600.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;options&lt;/a&gt; are defined in Marlin Firmware file &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/blob/1.1.x/Marlin/Configuration_adv.h&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Configuration_adv.cfg&lt;/a&gt; (Advanced Pause). The settings for Repetier are probably differently defined than in the advanced configuration file; you should look them up in Repetier. It could well be that separate G-codes (or scripts) are used for this. E.g. &lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#G10:_Retract&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;G10&lt;/a&gt; is used to retract filament as set by &lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#M207:_Set_retract_length&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;M207&lt;/a&gt; (both length and feed rate!). G-code &lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#G11:_Unretract&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;G11&lt;/a&gt; does the opposite, it unretracts the filament as specified by &lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#M208:_Set_unretract_length&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;M208&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To answer your question, yes, you need to alter the values of the constants in &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/blob/1.1.x/Marlin/Configuration_adv.h&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Configuration_adv.h&lt;/a&gt; for changing the speed when using the LCD to change the filament:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;// (mm/s) Unload filament feedrate. This can be pretty fast.&#xA;#define FILAMENT_CHANGE_UNLOAD_FEEDRATE     10  &#xA;// (mm/s) Load filament feedrate. This can be pretty fast.&#xA;#define FILAMENT_CHANGE_FAST_LOAD_FEEDRATE   6  &#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-09-04T10:24:48.893" LastActivityDate="2018-09-04T10:24:48.893" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6812" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6806" CreationDate="2018-09-03T06:27:10.473" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;By  interpreting your question as &lt;em&gt;&amp;quot;Can most hotends print polycarbonate at 300°C+?&amp;quot;&lt;/em&gt;, and taking into consideration the answers to &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/4209/can-cheap-hotend-parts-sourced-from-china-actually-produce-good-prints&quot;&gt;Can cheap hotend parts sourced from China actually produce good prints?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;, then it would seem to be safe to assume&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; that most hotends can, given a few adjustments or considerations:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use of a PT100&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt; or thermocouple, en lieu of a thermistor&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use of PTFE tubing&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Taken directly from &lt;a href=&quot;https://e3d-online.com/v6&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;E3D's V6 product info&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The V6 can comfortably reach 285°C with the supplied thermistor. By swapping a thermistor for a thermocouple (may require additional electronics) or PT100 you can reach over 400°C. This not only allows you to print extremely high temperature materials like Polycarbonate and Nylons but also eliminates HotEnd meltdown failures associated with PEEK/PTFE designs. The PTFE filament guide inside the V6 HotEnd is never subjected to high temperatures, so there is no risk of damage through overheating.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Footnotes&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; The materials used by cheaper clones of the higher quality, more expensive, branded hotends are &lt;em&gt;probably&lt;/em&gt; the same as those used in the branded hotends, and indeed are probably produced using the same pirated patterns/molds/casts, but with less care and quality involved. They can even be produced in &lt;em&gt;the same factory&lt;/em&gt;, but are items that have failed the QA tests, and as such are not deemed to be &lt;em&gt;brandable&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; Although, to paraphrase a quote from a movie: Assumptions can be considered to be the mother of all &lt;em&gt;disasters&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt; A Pt100 or Pt1000 is a Platinum RTD (&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Resistance_thermometer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Resistance Temperature Detector&lt;/a&gt;) with a resistance of 100 ohms at 0°C which changes with temperature. From this manufacturer's &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.processparameters.co.uk/platinum-resistance-thermometers-pt100-pt1000/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;website&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A Pt100 or Pt1000 is a Platinum RTD (Resistance Temperature Detector) with a resistance of 100 ohms at 0°C which changes with temperature. They are suitable for applications in the temperature range of -200°C to 600°C but are more commonly used in the range -50°C to +250°C. These temperature sensors are reliable and can offer a higher degree of accuracy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4762" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:29:41.667" LastActivityDate="2018-09-03T15:20:44.823" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6813" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6806" CreationDate="2018-09-03T10:28:48.287" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Handling a 1mm nozzle implies a desire to reduce the overall print time (otherwise why use a large nozzle), so you will need to consider not only the maximum operating temperature but also the rate at which plastic can be melted. (See also &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/572&quot;&gt;this question&lt;/a&gt; and one on overheating to &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/3350&quot;&gt;compensate&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using 1.75mm filament is a good start, this has a better surface area to volume ratio, but you're likely to see issues with both the heater cartridge power (so a 40W heater is probably going to help), but also the size of the melt zone and the thermal mass of the heater block.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you need to push a reasonably large amount of heat from the cartridge to the filament, it is important to minimise the thermal resistance - so using a steel nozzle would be a disadvantage here (but since polycarbonate is abrasive, you will need to consider wear resistance as part of your trade-offs). You can get longer nozzles and larger heat blocks designed to work better in high flow applications.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also remember that your extruder needs to work 6 times faster to achieve the same linear speed compared to a 0.4mm nozzle (with at least as much pressure), so this also might need to be upgraded (or driven a little harder).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can however tolerate a somewhat slower print speed, you might not &lt;a href=&quot;https://rigid.ink/blogs/news/why-3d-print-with-polycarbonate-how-to-get-best-results&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;need to reach 300°C &lt;/a&gt; to print PC.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4927" LastEditorUserId="4927" LastEditDate="2018-09-03T11:37:58.167" LastActivityDate="2018-09-03T11:37:58.167" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6814" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6778" CreationDate="2018-09-03T12:24:19.913" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't know what you would like to achieve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As @typo mentioned there is similar functionality which triggers at printer startup: &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/wiki/Autostart&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/wiki/Autostart&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found in Marlin's source code that you can enable that autostart feature to be triggered from menu. Just enable &lt;code&gt;MENU_ADDAUTOSTART&lt;/code&gt; in &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/blob/1.1.x/Marlin/Configuration_adv.h&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Configuration_adv.h&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you really need a g-code that start after sd-card insert then you have to adjust the marlin source code on your own. I suggest to alter file &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/blob/1.1.x/Marlin/cardreader.cpp&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;cardreader.cpp&lt;/a&gt;. There you have to trigger the autostart procedure after a sd-card is inserted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="75" LastActivityDate="2018-09-03T12:24:19.913" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6815" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-09-03T16:13:37.507" Score="6" ViewCount="1185" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am trying to resolve this for months and have tried almost everything, I guess.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am using Marlin firmware on a custom extruder with a custom fabricated heating block in which heater and thermistor (Marlin Temp_Sensor 11) are set up perpendicular to each other. Whenever I try to heat it up to 200 degree Celsius, it falls short and fails at around 140 and that too with a very low pace (especially between 100 to 140).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have already tried PID tuning, ADC values calibration, etc. Also, I have tried varying the values of &lt;code&gt;Watch_Temp_Sensor&lt;/code&gt; in &lt;code&gt;Configuration_Adv.h&lt;/code&gt;. I don't know what's going wrong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can extruder coldend fan have an effect on the heating of thermal block?  I have tried heating the hotend without cooling the coldend, although it takes around 10-12 minutes yet it works perfectly fine then and it reaches to the desired temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The power supply is working fine&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;P.S. I am not using any kind of pre-built extruder like E3D etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the setup:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5xvI9.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Photo of hotend&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5xvI9.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Photo of hotend&quot; title=&quot;Photo of hotend&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the thermistor setup:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tnbVn.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Thermistor setup&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tnbVn.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Thermistor setup&quot; title=&quot;Thermistor setup&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a view of heater position:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Vl3b0.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Heater position&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Vl3b0.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Heater position&quot; title=&quot;Heater position&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12838" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-09-05T20:01:30.570" LastActivityDate="2018-09-05T20:01:30.570" Title="Hotend heating failure too short before limit" Tags="|extruder|marlin|hotend|thermistor|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6816" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6815" CreationDate="2018-09-03T18:24:42.530" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are many unknowns at this point, you need to work methodically through each stage. You probably also need some test equipment, at least a basic multimeter. Ideally a temperature probe too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, check that your power supply can drive the hot-end directly. You already know how long it takes to reach 120°C, so be sure to not let it heat too far beyond this time. This will bypass all of the control logic, and risks overheating your hotend/burning out the heater - but it should be OK if you limit to a few minutes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check the temperature reading, and cross check with some PLA or other low melting point filament to see if you actually reach ~180°C. Check the voltage as close to the heating cartridge as you have a connection point. It should be at least 11V (with a 12V PSU). My guess is that you have a bad connection somewhere...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you observe the hotend getting hot enough to melt plastic, check the thermistor readings. You should see a fairly constant rate of heating well past 200°C. However, I expect this will work fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, check the hotend mosfet drive and output as the hotend reaches the target temperature. It should be on, then switching on/off, then off as you pass the target.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this all looks OK, repeat but with the board in-circuit and controlling the heater. It may be that the mosfet is damaged, or it is not being driven very well - but to progress past that point we need to see voltage readings at various points.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4927" LastActivityDate="2018-09-03T18:24:42.530" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6817" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6755" CreationDate="2018-09-03T18:50:45.997" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;One way that I have solved that issue is by model it in openscad and embed the letters in the surface.  then with my dual headed printer, print the letters in a different color.  No support material is needed in that case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1397" LastActivityDate="2018-09-03T18:50:45.997" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6818" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-09-03T22:44:17.647" Score="10" ViewCount="518" Body="&lt;p&gt;The company I work for is protective of IP and has security procedures for disposing of anything that could be stolen for industrial espionage.  Paper gets shredded and sent to trusted recycling center, all old data storage media gets obliterated, but what do we do with 3D prints?  For any functional prototype, I have 10 or more early versions and failed prints.  Is there a good way to dispose of these so that they are unrecognizable?  Given the volume of prints I need to dispose of, it should be safe, cheap, and able to handle large batches.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12842" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2018-10-26T06:15:09.457" LastActivityDate="2019-03-26T18:33:24.817" Title="Secure disposal of 3D prints" Tags="|print-material|post-processing|disposal|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6819" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6794" CreationDate="2018-09-03T23:17:56.200" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Check the input cable used, I had similar experience when using cable they provided, then I found out that the plug had swapped L and N wires inside, measuring mains voltage between neutral and ground. Swapped cable for known good and the issue was gone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12843" LastActivityDate="2018-09-03T23:17:56.200" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6820" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6818" CreationDate="2018-09-03T23:49:00.823" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If your company has a shredder which would handle large amounts of paper at one time, it should be able to handle the plastics from 3D printing. Most larger shredders can handle paper clips and staples. 3D plastics would be even less of a burden than them. You may need to break the pieces down into smaller chunks, but I doubt it would be an issue. Even destroying most prints by hand shouldn't be too arduous. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Secondarily, you could also melt them using something hot ... a heat gun would probably do the job without issue. &lt;a href=&quot;https://home.howstuffworks.com/heat-gun.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;They get in excess of 1100°F&lt;/a&gt;. Since we &lt;em&gt;usually&lt;/em&gt; melt filament at around 200°C (~392°F), a heat gun should be more than hot enough to make it an unrecognizable blob of plastic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11242" LastEditorUserId="11242" LastEditDate="2018-09-04T19:44:42.020" LastActivityDate="2018-09-04T19:44:42.020" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6821" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6818" CreationDate="2018-09-04T04:33:51.733" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are industrial shredders that will destroy just about anything. They are not cheap, at least from a hobbyist point of view. You might look into them because they might be right for the size of your company.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Otherwise, you can simply melt them in a hot oven or with a heat gun. I would be careful about getting them too hot because some filaments release toxic fumes when heated and that might pose a hazard risk with potential liability risk.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12630" LastActivityDate="2018-09-04T04:33:51.733" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6823" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6815" CreationDate="2018-09-04T08:13:49.560" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Now that we can see the real problem, your heater cartridge doesn't have good thermal contact to the block, and the block does not have good contact to the nozzle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Where is your heatbreak? You need to perform a basic analysis of the heat flow in your design. Anything that is expected to conduct needs to be clamped, and to have thermal paste. Any connection between hot and cold which is used for mechanical support needs to have minimal cross section, and maybe use materials with poor thermal conductivity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Example&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a simplified diagram, with some assumed thermal resistances. Note that the geometry is not representative since your nozzle is actually within the throat, not between the heater and the throat as I've shown. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CtbEO.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CtbEO.png&quot; alt=&quot;Heat Flow&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Total thermal resistance is 7.5 °C/W. Maximum heat in is 40W, so the heater is at 320°C, and the nozzle can reach 300°C.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Replace the heater with a 20W element, and the nozzle drops to 170°C.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keep the heater at 20W, to achieve 220° at the nozzle, the throat needs to provide at least 4.5°C/W thermal resistance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming you're using a 10 mm diameter aluminium bar as a heat break, it needs to be 7 cm long with a 20 W heater. If you use steel instead, the length can be reduced by a factor of about 3.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4927" LastEditorUserId="4927" LastEditDate="2018-09-05T13:34:31.810" LastActivityDate="2018-09-05T13:34:31.810" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6824" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2018-09-04T08:32:53.463" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;3D printers traditionally require a stable mounting, calibration after being moved, etc. It is however possible to modify a printer so it can be moved about more easily, fitted to a backpack for printing no the move, adapted to be easy to set up for demonstrations, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4927" LastEditorUserId="4927" LastEditDate="2018-09-04T09:46:39.857" LastActivityDate="2018-09-04T09:46:39.857" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6825" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2018-09-04T08:32:53.463" Score="0" Body="To ask about modifications to make a printer easier to transport or to print with whilst on the move" OwnerUserId="4927" LastEditorUserId="4927" LastEditDate="2018-09-04T09:52:05.860" LastActivityDate="2018-09-04T09:52:05.860" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6826" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6807" CreationDate="2018-09-04T10:09:23.527" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;A close inspection of what happened when printing the first layer resulted in this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The missing steps on the new print came from the nozzle scraping too close to the print surface, which lead to no first layer&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Readjusting the Z-axis end stop, which had moved down, resulted in no more lost steps, but the print not sticking for the first test.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Releveling the bed and making sure the bar was parallel to the bed resulted in a perfect first layer.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Lost steps and under-extrusion could not be replicated after 48 hours of &lt;em&gt;rest&lt;/em&gt; for the printer.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have no idea why the print had failed due to under-extrusion &lt;em&gt;during&lt;/em&gt; the print, but apparently, my immediate tests were flawed enough to not detect the first layer height resulting in getting almost no extrusion. This I mistook for massive under-extrusion, making me believe something else was at fault.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-09-06T21:46:46.733" LastActivityDate="2018-09-06T21:46:46.733" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6827" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6818" CreationDate="2018-09-04T10:46:09.810" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;A plastic shredder machine it's better then a melting/burning solution. It is faster and it doesn't produce fumes. Imagine burning PET bottles. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the shredder you need nothing but electricity for the motor. For plastic melting it would be much higher consumption. Additionally you could reuse shredded plastic for filament machine like &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.filastruder.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Filastruder&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;https://omnidynamics.co.uk/collections/all/products/strooder-filament-maker&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Strooder&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vqf6P.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vqf6P.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a nice article about shredders on &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.3dhubs.com/talk/t/which-shredding-and-extruding-machines-are-available-part-3/2008&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;3dhubs&lt;/a&gt; from 2015.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then it depends on your budget. Around 400$ you can build one. A nice tutorial on &lt;a href=&quot;https://preciousplastic.com/en/videos/build/shredder.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;preciousplastic.com&lt;/a&gt;. For 1000$ you can find shredder machines on &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.alibaba.com/showroom/plastic-shredder.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Alibaba&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="75" LastEditorUserId="75" LastEditDate="2018-09-04T14:07:40.560" LastActivityDate="2018-09-04T14:07:40.560" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6828" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6818" CreationDate="2018-09-04T11:17:01.237" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Big batches need you to be time efficient - or use a method that uses little work. So my suggestions are mainly needing oversight. Keep a fire extinguisher and safety gear handy though!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Melting together&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most filaments are melting at or around 200 °C.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I recently got rid of my box of (PLA) waste material by putting them on a tray and melting them together in a standard kitchen oven at 200 °C for about 1-2 hours. The resulting plate of plastic destroyed all structure that could be identified. This plate can be then broken up or recycled without the risk to disclose any company secrets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suggest to use a baking paper under the filament to be molten or a teflon coated tray, as the filament will be REALLY sticky to a blank metal surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;About 4 liters of broken prints resulted in approximately a 5x450x300 mm sheet. If you make sure that no filament can touch the heating elements, you can get rid of quite a lot of material in each batch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Don't do this with ABS&lt;/strong&gt; and don't contaminate your food trays with plastic rests - use specially marked ones that are for disposal of prints only.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Green destruction&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to be green when destroying prints: &lt;a href=&quot;https://insteading.com/blog/solar-cooker/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;a box solar cooker&lt;/a&gt; with a glass lid easily runs at 200 °C, is decently cheap and runs all day on just a couple seconds of adjusting every hour or so. You have to set it up in an access restricted area, but as long as the sun shines, it runs pretty much for free. Just make sure to put the prints to be destroyed onto some kind of non-combustible carriers, like tinfoil or aluminium trays.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;ABS in Acetone&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you use ABS, exposing it to acetone fumes for a short time (seconds to half a minute will smooth the surface. Give it some minutes can destroy the structure into a batch of plastic waste without heat that hardens as the acetone evaporates again, though complex structures might need as much as an hour. Dunking ABS into acetone results in pure chemical waste, that is just a waste of acetone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To save acetone and a way to the chemical waste disposal, try this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Put a batch of several prints into a large, airtight box that isn't made from ABS. Pour some acetone on a tray and add a paper towel to generate a consistent acetone atmosphere in the box. Make sure to keep the tray on the floor of the box but in a way so no print will fall into it. This should dispose of the prints by merging them into a huge lump within about an hour.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Do this outside &amp;amp; keep fire away&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:29:41.667" LastActivityDate="2019-03-26T18:33:24.817" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6829" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6881" CreationDate="2018-09-04T12:55:05.430" Score="6" ViewCount="751" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have tried to print a 3D model with Creatr HS from Leapfrog. This print failed twice. The 3D model is the same, .gcode the same. Surprisingly it failed at different stage. Please look at the pictures. You can see the place where extruder was when print stopped.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BrCvi.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BrCvi.png&quot; alt=&quot;Same model interrupted at diff. stage&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I checked the filament and extruders, it is NOT a problem here. Extruders are not clogged, filament is not tangled nor blocked. Stepper motors stopped working, anyway the display shows that print progresses.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have created a ticket for this issue on Leapfrog support page, but had an answer that this printer is no longer supported.&lt;br&gt;&#xA; Does anyone has an idea what could be the core of the problem?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Today I have tried print again to observe and answer questions from the comments. Observations are:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;- The process suddenly stops&lt;br&gt;&#xA;- Hotend cools down (you can observe it on the picture below - I am using left extruder - as you can see it shows 24/0; 24 is actual hotend temp, 0 - wanted temperature )&lt;br&gt;&#xA;- Display shows that print is progressing even faster than it would happen when everything is fine (maybe this is not important)  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jfUMf.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jfUMf.png&quot; alt=&quot;46 percent&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/z3ioE.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/z3ioE.png&quot; alt=&quot;49 percent&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT2&lt;/strong&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have opened the printer to see what is happening inside. The electronics is divided into 2 PCBs. One is an 'heavy job workhorse' (drivers and some logics), the other is a Olimex A20-Olinuxino-Micro. The pendrive with .gcode is connected to this board as well as the display and control joystick (actually encoder).&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FZBah.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FZBah.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Olimex&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;One of the USB ports from Olinuxino is connected to 'workhorse' board. Next to the USB port here you can see Rx/Tx diodes.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;Observations:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;When the print is in active state, two Rx/Tx diodes located on workhorse PCB blinking occasionally (mainly when there is a print head direction change), what brings the suggestion, that the data comes from Olinuxino PCB. When the print stops, these two diodes are blinking rapidly. I am thinking that there is some problem with Olimex board (it is sending uncontrolled data or data is being send too quick).&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Below you can see image of drivers board with Rx/Tx diodes continuously on. There is also another Rx/Tx pair and these are also both on. &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vvaO6.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vvaO6.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Driver pcb Leapfrog&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I'm going to do some search on Olinuxino board/system.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT 3&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Finding: During board and temperature check I have found that the fan cooling bottom Olimex pcb is dead. I have took it out, connect to +24V and... no spinning.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8p2Ma.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8p2Ma.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Dead fan Creatr HS&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;I have replaced the fan to a new one. Also, I have created a 20mm box model for printing, sliced it and tried to print it. No success here. After 2 lines of print sudden stop and Rx/Tx blink. I have downloaded model of Marvin, sliced it and tried to print: all ok!&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Also I want to know if the data is continuously fetched from USB or loaded to Olinuxino and then used to print. So, started the Marvin print, removed USB from Creatr HS and yes, the print continues until the end. I am thinking that the data must be stored in Olimex memory and then fetched and fed to drivers PCB. Question is: where in Olimex the data is stored? Is lack of fan (and possibly overheat) damaged it slightly? If this is stored in onboard NAND memory it could cause a problem after a long time - it has 100 000 write/erase cycles.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yjo8Z.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yjo8Z.png&quot; alt=&quot;NAND Kynix&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;New board would be a solution, unfortunately Leapfrog ran out of them. Olimex is selling boards, will try to buy one. I hope that different revision will work. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12847" LastEditorUserId="12847" LastEditDate="2018-09-07T10:09:18.767" LastActivityDate="2018-09-11T14:49:08.983" Title="Leapfrog Creatr HS stops mid print (extruders not clogged)" Tags="|print-quality|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6830" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6726" CreationDate="2018-09-04T15:49:25.333" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;Designing a part for 3D printing often doesn't seem to have many special considerations, but I have learned the hard way, that there are some things to do differently. This is just a list of things to that one should keep in mind &lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;in addition to basic principles of design&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; when designing parts, keeping the subsequently slicing the parts in mind too:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Print orientation&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are many ways how you could orient your print, but usually, there is one orientation, that has the least need for support. Look at your part critically and keep this orientation in mind when designing. Especially look at overhangs and bridging, and if you can get away without.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Overhangs&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are 3 sorts of overhangs:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Small overhangs ones that are neglectable.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Long overhangs which can get support.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Overhangs that can't be supported.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When designing parts, you want to make sure you only have type 1 and 2 Overhangs, as type 3 overhangs will sag and fail. Think carefully if you can rotate the piece to get a print orientation that does not need an overhang that can't be supported by an automatically generated support structure. If that is impossible, try to implement a sacrificial piece that can turn the overhang into a bridge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Smaller overhangs can be made neglectable by adding a phase to the underside. This phase's angle is depending on the printer. In my experience, 70° is something many printers can manage, but I prefer 45° due to the ease of making them. A fuller &lt;em&gt;can&lt;/em&gt; work to give a small overhang the needed support, but often has problems for larger overhangs!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Bridges&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Overhangs turn into bridges if they are connected on both sides. These either have a limited length, depending on the printer you use or need a support in the center. Check if you really &lt;em&gt;need&lt;/em&gt; a bridge or if you can rotate the piece to get away without.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Avoid vertical holes in bridges&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It might be something that might surprise but a vertical hole or slot in a bridging part is something that often fails as the bridging strings just sag as they are terminated mid-air without a support structure and finally fall, ruining the bridge. Yet such a support structure sometimes could not be removed in all cases, so something needs to be done differently.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One such a solution is to add a 1-layer sacrificial layer on the bottom of the hole: printing a solid layer by bridging is possible, and the subsequent hole/slot can still be free. It has to be cut free after printing in post-processing though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;round holes in Walls&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Round holes in standing walls can become problematic to print once the diameter gets too large. A trick to keep the upper parts of the hole to sag into the cavity, making it undersized or needing to drill it to size later. To prevent this, the upper side of the hole can be adjusted: instead of a round upper rim, turn the hole into a teardrop. This reduces the overhanging area. Keeping a 60° top angle on the hole should be fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the hole is used to key an item to an axle, put the keyway to the top of the print orientation, so it takes the place of the teardrop-tip.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some more about holes one can learn from &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/j6508J94VsA&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Makers Muse (Angus Daveson)&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Reduce internal structure&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have seen prints fail for strange reasons. One of them was a piece taken from a straight up industrial design plan, then scaled down. This one resulted in &lt;em&gt;too much&lt;/em&gt; tiny internal geometry, resulting in a lot of material and time wasted on printing these internal pieces that nobody could reach, that were fused together for the original gaps were already 0.2mm and less and besides that, there was the occasional print failure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Removing any non-essential internal geometry lessens not only the printer's load, but speeds up the print, lessens the material waste and can prevent failures due to clogs or other unexpected behavior. If you can't fix it in design, &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6230/easy-way-to-refine-a-3d-model-for-3d-printing-by-removing-internal-geometry&quot;&gt;there are workarounds&lt;/a&gt;, but try to need to avoid them!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Avoid Intersecting Shells&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As we are at it, often game and graphic designers are lazy and use intersecting shells. These can become quite messy in the slicing step. If possible, try to avoid intersecting shells, even as modern slicers have learned to fix this by themselves by now. The results of that are not always pretty if you forget to flag the &amp;quot;Union intersecting shells&amp;quot; option in your slicer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Sizing&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We might not always be aware of it, but prints do &lt;em&gt;shrink&lt;/em&gt; in the XY axis and to a different degree in the Z axis as they cool, during and after the print is done. This is what causes warping in the first place and lead to many lost prints (especially on non-heated beds). This behavior has to be taken into consideration especially when designing bores. My suggestion for this is twofold:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Intentionally design the hole to be too small and add extra wall material in slicing, then drill it up to the right diameter. Drill slowly to not melt the plastic.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Learn your shrinking parameter for the material and design with that shrinkage in mind, possibly iterating the print a few times. Note that different spools/colors of the same material might have different shrinking!&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Minimum Wall Thickness&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Without Arachne, a 3D-printer can not reliably print walls that are thinner than the extrusion width of a printer. The choice of the correct nozzle for an extrusion width is &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/7425/help-to-reconcile-nozzle-diameter-deposited-line-width-and-wall-thickness-in-c&quot;&gt;a question upon itself.&lt;/a&gt;. Even with Arachne slicing and variable line width, printing a wall thinner than a nozzle diameter is nigh impossible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Tapping/Screwing/Inserts&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For tapping prints directly, you need wall thickness - according to the norms - you'll need usually about 0.2mm diameter that can be tapped into for smaller standard-size threads. Using 3 perimeters with a 0.45 mm extrusion width will give walls of 1.2 mm, which I consider a rather strong wall, and provides quite some tolerance to drill up to size and then tapping screws into. You will get away with 2 perimeters for smaller thread sizes (M3 and lower), but for large ones (M10+), you will want a fourth or even fifth perimeter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remember though, that the &lt;em&gt;printed PLA is not good for very strong threading&lt;/em&gt;: &lt;strong&gt;Tapping print&lt;/strong&gt;s directly is pretty much only for &lt;strong&gt;low- and non-load-bearing connections&lt;/strong&gt;. If you combine several pieces with screws, try to design the parts to make some sort of compression fit using a bolt and nut, or use several, small diameter screws with a fine thread. Avoid coarse thread if you can, stay on the small side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you need a &lt;strong&gt;load bearing connection&lt;/strong&gt; with screws, the best strength comes from using a &lt;strong&gt;metal insert&lt;/strong&gt; or provide a &lt;strong&gt;space for a nut to fit into&lt;/strong&gt;. Metal inserts are usually placed by heat-setting them: put the heat-set insert onto a soldering iron tip and push it into the slightly under-sized hole, melting and molding the print to fit the insert, providing strong threads that are held really good in the shell of remolded plastic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a compromise, modern slicers allow to use modifier meshes, that could be used to increase the strength of modeled threads or holes that need to be tapped.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do you want to know more? &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iR6OBlSzp7I&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;CNC Kitchen (Stefan)&lt;/a&gt; had made some tests on the strength of these connection type.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Print strength&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keep these general rules in mind when designing load-bearing parts:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Generally speaking, FDM prints are strongest in carrying along their &lt;strong&gt;Z-axis&lt;/strong&gt; when withstanding &lt;strong&gt;compressive forces&lt;/strong&gt;, as then the print layers of the shell are forced against each other. It also excels at fighting &lt;strong&gt;bending&lt;/strong&gt; forces this way. But this orientation is also giving us the &lt;strong&gt;lowest tensile strength&lt;/strong&gt;, as each layer boundary is a possible breaking point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;strong&gt;XY-plane&lt;/strong&gt; usually &lt;strong&gt;excels in tensile strength&lt;/strong&gt; but sacrifices some of its ability to withstand compression (it is &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; proportional though).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Printing a part at a &lt;strong&gt;45° angle&lt;/strong&gt; will give often a &lt;strong&gt;great compromise of strengths&lt;/strong&gt;, but might need an additional surface to get a good first layer - this surface can be sacrificial with the use of support.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For deeper information on the strength of parts and materials in comparison and how to manipulate it, there are large playlists of tests made by &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLEOQTmIWJ_rncRcWmjQIvMKFAeM071CXM&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;CNC Kitchen (Stefan)&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLDJMid0lOOYl8TZJV9xHznKFq5yA5ZTi2&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Thomas Sanladerer (Tom)&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Post processing&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Post processing can be your best friend when printing, just as it can be your worst nightmare. I won't detail all methods of postprocessing, but some that are quite applicable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Assembly/Gluing&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remember to design your parts with gaps for the glue when designing parts for assembly, and you might want to include guidance notches/cones or other &lt;strong&gt;alignment features&lt;/strong&gt; to make sure the assembly aligns. This is especially needed as the parts shrink a little and have a rough surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you need to assemble your part due to the available print volume, be especially sure to include ways to key the parts together. Pegs or outcroppings/indents (often called &lt;em&gt;keys&lt;/em&gt;) that match up to one another make alignment on assembly much easier too, and are a different type of alignment feature. It can be a good idea to design yourself a &amp;quot;cookie cutter&amp;quot; file that is applied after designing the part that automatically includes the glue gaps and keys.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a lot of glues and other methods to merge the parts. A more in-depth look at some of them is &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6723/what-glues-for-pla/6725#6725&quot;&gt;What glues for bonding printed PLA to injection-molded plastic?&lt;/a&gt; but you will have to keep in mind how you want to combine your pieces in the design step - and account for it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Print in Place/PIP&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this vein, learn the &lt;strong&gt;tolerances your printer&lt;/strong&gt; can manage to allow print-in-place(PIP), allowing functional parts that require no assembly. PIP is something that isn't possible with subtractive manufacturing usually, but remember that in 3D printing you might need to &lt;em&gt;break&lt;/em&gt; the parts free after printing from bridges or sagging. Usually, a single strong turn suffices. To be able to do this, you might want to include a position for an Allen-key to manually turn the parts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To learn how fine your tolerances are, there are many &lt;strong&gt;tolerance gauges/tests&lt;/strong&gt; around. A &lt;em&gt;rule of thumb&lt;/em&gt; for many printers is, that 1 nozzle width is often easily achievable with a good setup, 0.5 nozzles are achievable with some effort and 0.25 is somewhere close to the 'holy grail' - you might want to change the nozzle to a smaller one in case you want to have very thin gaps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Composite construction&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are ways to turn your (mostly) hollow prints into much stiffer versions of themselves by turning them into composites, for example by using a resin or a different hardening fluid (like foam or plaster) as a filler or coating material.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When planning to do so, remember to include inlets/outlets for it and the air. It can be a good idea to design the part in such a way that it just contains the walls and a pre-planned support structure. In doing so, remember to disable infill in the slicer to enforce the flow you want in your structure. Look at how the ribs inside of an airframe are designed for general rules on hollow parts: include holes. This allows the flow of your fluid into each and every corner instead of blocking the flow. This can also reduce the needed number of inlets and outlets from one per &lt;em&gt;chamber&lt;/em&gt; to one per &lt;em&gt;part&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Plastic Properties&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remember we work with thermoplastics. Learn what kind of postprocessing your thermoplastic allows and its mechanical properties. Some examples:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;APS can be vapor smoothed with acetone.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Many plastics can be annealed by baking at or little above their glass transition temperature, increasing strength and layer-to-layer bonding.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When using power tools on plastic, use ample cooling and time, as otherwise, one quickly melts the prints!&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Surface Finish&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The surface of FDM prints is somewhat rough. To smooth it out there are 2 general ways: fill it up or smooth it down. If you want to fill it up, design the part &lt;em&gt;undersized&lt;/em&gt;, if you smooth it down, add &lt;em&gt;sacrificial thickness&lt;/em&gt;. It is common to combine both, adding body filler first, then sanding down till the print material shows through again. If doing this, make sure to check your sizing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If there comes a lacquer layer atop, remember to account for that thickness: undersize surfaces, oversize holes!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1 - this means, that thoughts about postprocessing that are not unique to 3D printing are not elaborated on here. Examples are painting, coating or smoothing the surface mechanically.&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Further reading/viewing&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Further information can be gotten from these playlists, though they aim at times for newbies:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;CNC Kitchen (Stefan): &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLEOQTmIWJ_rmoqdFUCgKrNu_BsMVB7e1V&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;3D Printing for Engineers Playlist&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;CNC Kitchen (Stefan): &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLEOQTmIWJ_rmPCnfJVOpkdIAhrOk6QppZ&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;3D Printing Tips&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Maker's Muse (Angus): &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLTCCNNvHC8PDR_jQy609toqq8EAfhiOOL&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;3D Printint 101&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Maker's Muse (Angus): &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLTCCNNvHC8PCFgwvZZBBI6qVW9W8KfJ_7&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Advanced 3D Printing Tips&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Maker's Muse (Angus): &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLTCCNNvHC8PC40tcEqaJcgUMb97LNkLIn&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;CAD for Newbies&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Maker's Muse (Angus): &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLTCCNNvHC8PAcpgeMC1IIa0xEzrHO_9r0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;CAD for 3D Printing&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2022-11-27T13:42:32.797" LastActivityDate="2022-11-27T13:42:32.797" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6831" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6726" CreationDate="2018-09-04T16:03:47.540" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In a &lt;a href=&quot;https://drive.google.com/file/d/1p62P1ZvTwCKK0TGZL7FKhxg-lZQLMe3Q/view?usp=sharing&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;presentation&lt;/a&gt;(pdf) that I've used as an introduction to 3D printing, I listed out the following points:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Structures have to be built-up from the build platform, with only about 45° overhang (or small &lt;strong&gt;flat&lt;/strong&gt; bridges).&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;supports can be added (generally automatically), but results can be variable.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;changing the print orientation can solve overhand problems.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Infill is used partly to provide additional strength, and partly to support any roof parts. Generally a print will not be solid.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Small parts in particular may need a brim to help with bed adhesion.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Designs must be 'manifold' to be printable. Arguably this is part of the workflow, but it can be the cause of non-obvious failures.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other detail worth calling out is the precision of what can be printed with FDM, although the best case resolution is ~0.1mm, the overall accuracy will be closer to the nozzle diameter due to the way that extruded filament is squashed during the print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4927" LastActivityDate="2018-09-04T16:03:47.540" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6832" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6836" CreationDate="2018-09-05T03:25:42.310" Score="4" ViewCount="575" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am attempting to write a basic slicer for some objects I am working with. I need to write a custom slicer as the objects are not polygonal based (they are implicit objects) and therefore cannot be plugged into slic3r. I can easily obtain the perimeter/shell of the objects I am working with and have a few successful prints. What I am having trouble with is how to add infill. I think the biggest hurdle is simply my inability to frame the question properly. How do current software tackle this problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know of my current approach is feasible but if I have a collection of vectors that represent the path around the outside of the object and a collection of vectors that represent an arbitrarily large infill pattern is there a way to union the two paths together to from an outer path (the object shell) and an inner path that is the infill pattern cut out in the shape of the object?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sorry for the lack of clarification. So lets say I cut out the infill pattern to match the inside of the object. How do I then intelligently connect all the broken infill segments together to form an efficient path that doesn't cross gaps or mess the object up in any way? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12851" LastEditorUserId="12851" LastEditDate="2018-09-05T18:52:44.120" LastActivityDate="2018-09-14T10:49:17.817" Title="How are infill paths connect to form an efficient path that respect the object's geometry?" Tags="|slicing|infill|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6833" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6832" CreationDate="2018-09-05T06:23:28.117" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;simple answer is math but you know that for sure&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;more descriptive answer (but still simple and with no math) is more or less as follows&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;slice an object with a plane to form (calculate) outline perimeter&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;create a grid of infill according to your needs (ie: lines, grids or honeycombs)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;calculate where outline cuts your grid of infill&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;abandon all what is outside&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;sort cut points in some order (&quot;some&quot; is definitely the hardest task)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;join points according to your sort&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and voila ;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;of course there is many details not mentioned in such description as distance between perimeter and infill, layer thickness and many others&#xA;this is just very naive and silly description but it's just to direct you where to go further&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;generally there is great library which you could give a try&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://sourceforge.net/projects/jsclipper/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://sourceforge.net/projects/jsclipper/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;edit&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;simple sort (counter)clockwise could be like this&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;set center point of the object (perimeter)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;start from 1200 hour and calculate module and angle of each cut-point&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;sort them by angle&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;it's still very simple and it's working only for convex set&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1211" LastEditorUserId="1211" LastEditDate="2018-09-06T05:10:40.117" LastActivityDate="2018-09-06T05:10:40.117" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6835" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6804" CreationDate="2018-09-05T09:25:36.417" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can see from the photo that filament melted and frozen thicker inside extruder. This is the problem and not the clogged extruder. This thick part produce a lot of friction and actually diameter grow until the print finally will stuck. Basically I had the same problem and I could guess that you are also using Bowden setup. The length of this built thicker part is actually corresponded to your retraction length setting in your slicer (the default value in Cura is unreasonably big like 6.5 millimetres). I solved the same problem by decreasing retraction settings to about 2-3&amp;nbsp;mm. Just try it and I am sure you will not have this problem again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11199" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-03-20T08:45:45.367" LastActivityDate="2020-03-20T08:45:45.367" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6836" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6832" CreationDate="2018-09-05T10:16:32.663" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;The answer to this is pretty much basic algebra: The software tackles the problem by using a set of functions that generate the infill pattern for ALL the build volume, then discard anything outside the shells. Which is determined by algebra:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Basics&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Outline Function&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assume the outline of the body is a function &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$O(l)$&lt;/span&gt; that has a parameter &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$l$&lt;/span&gt; for its length. This function can be calculated into XY coordinates, giving us &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$y\mapsto O^{xy}(x)$&lt;/span&gt;, that is parameterized after &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$x$&lt;/span&gt;, and should give us the values of &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$y$&lt;/span&gt; for a closed function &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$O(l)$&lt;/span&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Infill Functions&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, let's generate a function for infill pattern. Let's make it easy for us and use a diagonals pattern: &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$I_n(x)=x+n\times d$&lt;/span&gt;&#xA;where &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$d$&lt;/span&gt; is a fixed parameter for &amp;quot;distance to last line&amp;quot; and &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$n\in\mathbb Z$&lt;/span&gt; is the number of the line with 0 passing the origin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Comparation: Outline=Infill&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now basic algebra! Let the computer solve for each &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$n$&lt;/span&gt; the term &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$O(x)=I_n(x)$&lt;/span&gt;. The result should be (in the best case) paired points, all on the linear function &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$I_n(x)$&lt;/span&gt;. Sort these points by their correlating &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$n$&lt;/span&gt; value first, then the &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$x$&lt;/span&gt; values.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Dealing with the results&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's assume we have some banana shape and our solutions for n=0 are like this: &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$P_{i=1 \to 4}=\{\{1,1\},\{2,2\},\{3,3\},\{4,4\}\}$&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Modeling starter&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the most simple cases, we hope to only have paired results - the outline is closed and thus each line passing it has to &lt;em&gt;cut&lt;/em&gt; it in multiples of two. Because we don't allow geometry to be below &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$\{0,0\}$&lt;/span&gt;, the line in this example will pass into the body at the first solution of these points and pass out of it at the second and so on. Generally: It moves in at odd and exits at even i. So our infill lines in the example need to connect &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$\{1,1\} \to \{2,2\}$&lt;/span&gt; and &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$\{3,3\} \to \{4,4\}$&lt;/span&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Enhancing the Modeling&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;checking for tangents&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, we might have an odd number of points that solve O(x)=I&lt;sub&gt;n&lt;/sub&gt;(x) for a given n. Let's assume &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$P_{i=1 \to 5}=\{1,1\},\{2,2\},\{3,3\},\{4,4\},\{5,5\}$&lt;/span&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now we need to be careful as one of these points is guaranteed to be a point in which &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$I_n(x)$&lt;/span&gt; is a tangent at of &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$O(x)$&lt;/span&gt;. So, we need to know the first differential of &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$O(x)$&lt;/span&gt; in the points, which is the tangent at &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$O(x)$&lt;/span&gt;. But we don't need to solve &lt;em&gt;all&lt;/em&gt; the points: We know the first should enter and the last exit the body, so we need (for most cases) to only solve this for the points &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$P_i$&lt;/span&gt; with &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$i=2 \to i_{max-1}$&lt;/span&gt;. When &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$O'(x)=I_n(x)$&lt;/span&gt;, we got a tangent and remove this point from the list of points to connect with infill lines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because we could have several tangents in a set of points, this check has to be done for all sets of points to eliminate these points.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, I used the &amp;quot;usually&amp;quot; there by intent: there are cases where the first or last point is a tangent, and because it is easier to cose, we should run the elimination process over all  &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$P_1 \to P_{max}$&lt;/span&gt;!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The new, reduced set of points will be a paired list: &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$Q_{i=1 \to 4}=\{1,1\},\{2,2\},\{4,4\},\{5,5\}$&lt;/span&gt;. The Infil connects &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$Q_1 \to Q_2$&lt;/span&gt; and &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$Q_3\to Q_4$&lt;/span&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Turning Points into vectors&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, we have our points &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$Q_1$&lt;/span&gt; and &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$Q_2$&lt;/span&gt; (or any other pair of &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$n \land n+1$&lt;/span&gt;, where n is an element of the odd numbers), both on &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$I_{n=0}(x)$&lt;/span&gt;. How to connect? Easy! &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$I{n=0}$&lt;/span&gt; is a function, most likely a linear one. Along this line has to be our connecting line from &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$Q_1\to Q_2$&lt;/span&gt;, so the movement we have to plot is the function of our pattern between the points. For a simple, linear pattern this would be:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$L_1=\frac{I(x)}{|I(x)|} \times |\vec{Q_2}-\vec{Q_1}|+\vec{Q1}$&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Optimisation&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Sorting properly&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, we have a set of Lines &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$L_n$&lt;/span&gt;, where, as established in the last paragraph, n is an odd number declaring it has the lower-end &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$Q_n$&lt;/span&gt;, and the upper-end &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$Q_{n+1}$&lt;/span&gt;. How do we sort these lines smartly so we have the least movement? Let's take a look at our lists:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The list of P&lt;sub&gt;i&lt;/sub&gt;, which contains all tangential points and end points. Not very helpful.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The reduced list of &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$Q_{n}$&lt;/span&gt;, which contains all the start and end points; it is &lt;em&gt;sorted&lt;/em&gt; in a way that odd numbers are starts, and even ends.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The list of &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$L_n$&lt;/span&gt; with i always being an odd number, that contains the movement paths (=lines) from each &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$Q_{n}$&lt;/span&gt; to its corresponding &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$Q_{n+1}$&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Shortest movement between prints?&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, let's do some math again: What is the closest &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$Q_{a}$&lt;/span&gt; to the &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$Q_{n+1}$&lt;/span&gt; we did end at after doing the &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$L_n$&lt;/span&gt; movement? Well, first of all, we need to make sure we don't get back to already moved paths so let's make a new list &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$R_{i}$&lt;/span&gt;, which contains all the &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$Q_{i}$&lt;/span&gt; we have not yet moved to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So what is the closest &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$R_{i}$&lt;/span&gt; to the end point of the path &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$L_e$&lt;/span&gt; we just moved? Well, easy! Solve &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$min|R_i-L_e|$&lt;/span&gt; with i being all the odd numbers in the list of &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$R_{i}$&lt;/span&gt; and &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$L_e$&lt;/span&gt; the point where the printhead was sent to at the end of the last movement&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;fewest direction changes?&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Always moving just the shortest distance might create a large number of direction changes. So it might be a good idea to keep the point-lists sorted by the parameter n of the function &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$l_n(x)$&lt;/span&gt; that created the points in the first place, and run down that list from minimum n that generated points (which can be below 0) to the maximum n that generated points.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;optimizing direction changes &amp;amp; movement paths&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, we have 2 approaches that pretty much only follow the pattern. However, we might make our average movement paths more efficient by using a simple trick:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Up to now, all our line functions &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$l_n(x)$&lt;/span&gt; had the same vector and just a different starting point to one another. So all the starts were on one side of the body, all the ends on the opposite. With a very simple trick on the infill function we can generate a group of functions that alternate the sides of the end-points between each line, jsut by adding an inverse element:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$L_n(x)=-1^n\times l_n(x)$&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, after all the movements with the same &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$n$&lt;/span&gt; are done, check for the closest starting point (which should be on the same side, but is not necessary the neighboring line), and go down that line fully, eradicating these points from the list of remaining points &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$R_{i}$&lt;/span&gt;. Once back on the side we &lt;em&gt;started&lt;/em&gt; first at, we look for the closest unused point again, run down that line, rinse and repeat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:29:41.667" LastActivityDate="2018-09-14T10:49:17.817" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6837" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2018-09-05T11:04:45.933" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2018-09-05T11:04:45.933" LastActivityDate="2018-09-05T11:04:45.933" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6838" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2018-09-05T11:04:45.933" Score="0" Body="Similar to the print-quality tag, but for problems where the print fails completely rather than just producing a poor result. Please include photos and describe what steps you have taken to isolate the problem (for example, what still works OK)" OwnerUserId="4927" LastEditorUserId="4927" LastEditDate="2018-09-05T21:30:14.063" LastActivityDate="2018-09-05T21:30:14.063" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6841" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6818" CreationDate="2018-09-05T21:26:26.743" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;My 2 cents. If you have a CNC machine, you could &quot;mill&quot; them down. other than that, garden shredder/mulcher might suffice. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12857" LastActivityDate="2018-09-05T21:26:26.743" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6843" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5131" CreationDate="2018-09-06T01:53:57.117" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use multiple layers of Elmer's white glue on the glass bed (five layers I think). The glue is PVA which provides a textured surface onto which the PETG adheres. It sticks better when the bed is hot than when the bed is cold. I use a bed temp of 58 degrees on my Anet A8. I have found out that the temp reported by the Anet is lower than the temperature that I measured the surface of the glass to be with my temperature probe. The PETG removes some of the layers of PVA when it comes off. For this reason I'm constantly needing to add more glue to the area that was printed, until the surface is so uneven that I have to remove the glass plate, clean it and start over again. If you take this advice, never flip the glass plate over onto the bare aluminum with the glue on it, as it will stick very firmly! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My colleague in work who has the same Anet A8 uses a glue stick in place of white glue. He also has a good experience printing PETG in this manner. I have tried his glue stick method, and found it difficult to clean when it's time to clean the glass. Now I live by my white glue method.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To apply the glue I use a foam artist's brush to make the layer nice and even. I let each layer dry before I apply the subsequent layers. After each use I quickly wash the brush because the glue will harden in the foam and cause the brush to wear out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also use this method with PLA, and TPU.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12857" LastActivityDate="2018-09-06T01:53:57.117" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6844" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6747" CreationDate="2018-09-06T02:17:35.043" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are many reasons why that could be happening. The simplest one:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The nozzle may be clogged/has debris. Push the filament down into the hot end with your hand to see if more force will cause a better flow rate. Also, if the filament tries to curl as it's coming out of the nozzle (in any direction) there is is most likely a blockage in the nozzle. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;There is a gap between the teflon tube and nozzle, resulting in a larger melt zone which makes it harder to push the filament through.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The extruder cooling fan isn't working which allows the heat to travel up heat brake, extending the melt zone.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The extruder gear may be dirty with plastic debris/dust/rust. This will cause slipping. The fact that the print starts working but then fails seems to indicate that the problem is progressive, indicative of slipping.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The motor is under-powered, resulting in step loss and a cumulative error during printing. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The filament is poor. Voids and inconsistent diameters used to be a problem that caused print fails long ago, but not so much these days.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The stepper motor drivers are over heating and shutting down intermittently during printing, resulting in cumulative errors. Use a house fan/ or other suitable fan to cool the board. I had one Anet A8 mainboard die on me due to over heating.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12857" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-09-06T17:01:27.930" LastActivityDate="2018-09-06T17:01:27.930" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6845" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6846" CreationDate="2018-09-06T04:59:31.737" Score="4" ViewCount="1316" Body="&lt;p&gt;When manually controlling the z-axis in reprap, it works fine. If I use the home button, it doesn't move. Instead, it stalls/freezes/hangs. It attempts to turn, but can't successfully make a full turn. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12862" LastEditorUserId="11242" LastEditDate="2018-09-06T17:05:18.330" LastActivityDate="2018-09-17T19:07:32.820" Title="Weird stepper issue when setting up Marlin printer" Tags="|marlin|z-axis|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6846" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6845" CreationDate="2018-09-06T08:30:42.223" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;lower the moving speed of the Z-axis motor, search for &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;homing feed rate&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;in config.h as it looks like the given speed is to high.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9730" LastActivityDate="2018-09-06T08:30:42.223" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6849" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6851" CreationDate="2018-09-06T18:12:10.460" Score="4" ViewCount="1757" Body="&lt;p&gt;The title almost says it all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was searching on websites like amazon.com and ebay.com for a replacement of the temperature sensor of my Ultimaker 1, but could only find replacements for Ultimaker 2 (PT100), but I know those aren't compatible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What specifications have replacement temperature sensors that work with the tc2 signal amplifier of the Ultimaker Original?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4285" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2019-08-31T08:13:28.007" LastActivityDate="2019-08-31T08:13:28.007" Title="Ultimaker Original temperature sensor replacement?" Tags="|replacement-parts|ultimaker-original|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6850" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-09-06T19:54:28.283" Score="4" ViewCount="437" Body="&lt;p&gt;The following rheology question relates to predicting the flow of polymer-based non-newtonian fluids extrusion processes. In this case, applied to 3D printing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to calculate the pressure required to produce the desired output based on my current system (pictured). I'm working under the assumption that it can be described in the same way as an MFI test.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Specifically, is it possible to calculate the Melt Flow Index (MFI) of a polymer under different test conditions (dimensions)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The MFI test is defined by the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;piston radius (change to match my system)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;nozzle radius (change to match my system)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;nozzle length (change to match my system)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;test load (change to match desired output)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using either the pre-existing MFI rating or the viscosity (or shear rate and shear stress) is it possible for me to define the test load in order to achieve output (gr/min)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This paper seems to prove this is possible but I've not yet been able to condense it into a single/understandable equation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://drive.google.com/a/additiveflow.com/file/d/13pmvzDog4s_AWP81J1PfPE5JeUyq7nzI/view?usp=sharing&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Melt Rheology of Polymer Blends from Melt Flow Index&lt;/a&gt; (bottom of page 222, 223, 224)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know that pressure = force / piston cross-sectional area&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XWXbA.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XWXbA.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12592" LastEditorUserId="12592" LastEditDate="2018-09-06T20:55:12.273" LastActivityDate="2018-09-07T14:25:37.827" Title="Given a viscosity is it possible to calculate required pressure for desired output?" Tags="|extrusion|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6851" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6849" CreationDate="2018-09-06T20:46:04.380" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You need a &lt;strong&gt;thermocouple&lt;/strong&gt;, not a thermistor. Also, as you say the Ultimaker Original+, and the Ultimaker 2, (which both use version 2.x.x boards) use a PT100&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to &lt;a href=&quot;https://community.ultimaker.com/topic/9461-e3d-thermocouple-mount-on-umo/?do=findComment&amp;amp;comment=105879&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this post&lt;/a&gt;, on &lt;a href=&quot;https://community.ultimaker.com/topic/9461-e3d-thermocouple-mount-on-umo/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;E3D Thermocouple mount on UMO+&lt;/a&gt;, a &lt;em&gt;k-type&lt;/em&gt; thermocouple will do:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am changing over to E3D V6 on my UMO, and have elected to used the k-type thermocouples sold by e3d with the standard/original UMO amplifier board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or to be more precise, from &lt;a href=&quot;https://community.ultimaker.com/topic/17460-thermocouple-sensor-replacement/?do=findComment&amp;amp;comment=175376&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this post&lt;/a&gt;, on&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://community.ultimaker.com/topic/17460-thermocouple-sensor-replacement/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;THERMOCOUPLE SENSOR REPLACEMENT&lt;/a&gt;, it is a &lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;3 mm k-type&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt; thermocouple:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would ask the reseller to measure the thermocouple to be really 3mm. I never bough a thermocoupler so no idea. I know that some aliexpress sellers did sell me a pt100 with 3.05mm (it doesn't fit in) so is good idea to ask for a photo with a caliper before paying.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The thermocouple in question, on AliExpress was this, &lt;a href=&quot;https://de.aliexpress.com/store/product/Type-K-Thermocouple-TC-for-Ultimaker-Original-3D-printer-3mm-K-type-thermocouple-for-Ultimaker-Original/2412069_32728579529.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;SWMAKER Thermoelement Typ K (TC) für Ultimaker Original 3D drucker 3mm K thermoelement typ für Ultimaker Original 3D drucker&lt;/a&gt;, ~$10&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or this, considerably more expensive at €33, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.3dprima.com/accessories/spare-parts/ultimaker/ultimaker-original-thermocouple-sensor/a-20948/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Ultimaker Original - Thermocouple Sensor&lt;/a&gt; (out of stock):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IpvsK.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Ultimaker Original - Thermocouple Sensor&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IpvsK.png&quot; alt=&quot;Ultimaker Original - Thermocouple Sensor&quot; title=&quot;Ultimaker Original - Thermocouple Sensor&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With respect to the firmware, from &lt;a href=&quot;https://community.ultimaker.com/topic/9461-e3d-thermocouple-mount-on-umo/?do=findComment&amp;amp;comment=105888&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this post&lt;/a&gt;, on &lt;a href=&quot;https://community.ultimaker.com/topic/9461-e3d-thermocouple-mount-on-umo/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;E3D Thermocouple mount on UMO+&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Normally you won't have any modifications to do cause your UMO already works with a thermocouple.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, assuming that you have an &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.sparkfun.com/datasheets/IC/AD595.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;AD595&lt;/a&gt; amplifier and not a MAX6675, ensure that you have&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#define TEMP_SENSOR_0 -1&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;set in &lt;code&gt;Configuration.h&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;//===========================================================================&#xA;//=============================Thermal Settings  ============================&#xA;//===========================================================================&#xA;//&#xA;//--NORMAL IS 4.7kohm PULLUP!-- 1kohm pullup can be used on hotend sensor, using correct resistor and table&#xA;//&#xA;//// Temperature sensor settings:&#xA;// -2 is thermocouple with MAX6675 (only for sensor 0)&#xA;// -1 is thermocouple with AD595&#xA;// 0 is not used&#xA;// 1 is 100k thermistor - best choice for EPCOS 100k (4.7k pullup)&#xA;// 2 is 200k thermistor - ATC Semitec 204GT-2 (4.7k pullup)&#xA;// 3 is Mendel-parts thermistor (4.7k pullup)&#xA;// 4 is 10k thermistor !! do not use it for a hotend. It gives bad resolution at high temp. !!&#xA;// 5 is 100K thermistor - ATC Semitec 104GT-2 (Used in ParCan &amp;amp; J-Head) (4.7k pullup)&#xA;// 6 is 100k EPCOS - Not as accurate as table 1 (created using a fluke thermocouple) (4.7k pullup)&#xA;// 7 is 100k Honeywell thermistor 135-104LAG-J01 (4.7k pullup)&#xA;// 71 is 100k Honeywell thermistor 135-104LAF-J01 (4.7k pullup)&#xA;// 8 is 100k 0603 SMD Vishay NTCS0603E3104FXT (4.7k pullup)&#xA;// 9 is 100k GE Sensing AL03006-58.2K-97-G1 (4.7k pullup)&#xA;// 10 is 100k RS thermistor 198-961 (4.7k pullup)&#xA;// 11 is 100k beta 3950 1% thermistor (4.7k pullup)&#xA;// 12 is 100k 0603 SMD Vishay NTCS0603E3104FXT (4.7k pullup) (calibrated for Makibox hot bed)&#xA;// 13 is 100k Hisens 3950  1% up to 300°C for hotend &amp;quot;Simple ONE &amp;quot; &amp;amp; &amp;quot;Hotend &amp;quot;All In ONE&amp;quot; &#xA;// 20 is the PT100 circuit found in the Ultimainboard V2.x&#xA;// 60 is 100k Maker's Tool Works Kapton Bed Thermistor beta=3950&#xA;//&#xA;//    1k ohm pullup tables - This is not normal, you would have to have changed out your 4.7k for 1k&#xA;//                          (but gives greater accuracy and more stable PID)&#xA;// 51 is 100k thermistor - EPCOS (1k pullup)&#xA;// 52 is 200k thermistor - ATC Semitec 204GT-2 (1k pullup)&#xA;// 55 is 100k thermistor - ATC Semitec 104GT-2 (Used in ParCan &amp;amp; J-Head) (1k pullup)&#xA;//&#xA;// 1047 is Pt1000 with 4k7 pullup&#xA;// 1010 is Pt1000 with 1k pullup (non standard)&#xA;// 147 is Pt100 with 4k7 pullup&#xA;// 110 is Pt100 with 1k pullup (non standard)&#xA;#define TEMP_SENSOR_0 -1&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, according to&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://community.ultimaker.com/topic/11834-questions-about-thermocouple-and-thermistor/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Questions about thermocouple and thermistor&lt;/a&gt;, the UMO board is 1.5.7, and &lt;em&gt;can&lt;/em&gt; use NTC100K thermistors and (maybe - but it isn't clear) a 4.7K pullup resistor:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Firstly we have to do the Challenge with a Sainsmart UM Kit with that UM 1.5.7 Board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We also have bought the print heads by E3D model V6 which have including ntc 100k thermistors which have already tables in marlin. As the V1.5.7. Board works with thermocouple, there was the question how to connect this. I got already an answere to just connect Signal and GND, to the board but I'd have to look for the resistors behind the connectors. Is it true, that I need a different resistor for each type of thermistor?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, it is probably advisable to stick with the 3 mm k-type thermocouple, for simplicity's sake.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Footnote&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; Apparently for these reasons, from &lt;a href=&quot;https://community.ultimaker.com/topic/17460-thermocouple-sensor-replacement/?do=findComment&amp;amp;comment=175503&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this post&lt;/a&gt;, on&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://community.ultimaker.com/topic/17460-thermocouple-sensor-replacement/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;THERMOCOUPLE SENSOR REPLACEMENT&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The UMO has the 'old' UltiBoard 1.5x which is a shield for an Arduino Mega, with the Pololu / Allegro stepper drivers plugged on it (Like the RAMPS controllers).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At that time RTDs where not very popular, and most printers came with thermistors. To improve the temperature feedback loop Ultimaker decided to use a thermocouple with an amplifier on top of the print head, which gives better results in particular at higher temperatures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to use a thermsitor instead of the thermcopule, you just have to swap the connections, and add a resistor on the board (the place for the resistor is foreseen on the board).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can even go for an RTD using E3D's adapter plate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The UMO+ is using the UltiBoard 2.x which is the same as in the Ultimaker 2, so it is PT100...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Note: RTD = Resistance Temperature Detector (such as a Pt100). A thermistor is similar to an RTD, but contains a ceramic or polymer resistor en lieu of metal.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4762" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:29:41.667" LastActivityDate="2018-09-06T21:01:54.310" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6852" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6845" CreationDate="2018-09-06T21:42:32.573" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Looks like endstop signal for Z is inverted. In this case Z will move in manual mode but when homing it will try and stop as limit detected immediately. Change Z_MIN_ENDSTOP_INVERTING to opposite value.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11199" LastActivityDate="2018-09-06T21:42:32.573" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6853" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6863" CreationDate="2018-09-06T22:12:11.863" Score="5" ViewCount="2530" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got a bracelet concept that I've sketched up as a flat design. I'm trying to found a route by which I can extrude this into a 3d object (depth map?), curve it into a bracelet, then ultimately create a STL file out of it. I'm having trouble finding a way to do this that allows me to &quot;warp&quot; the flat object into a bracelet before I try to print. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a recommend technique for this? I'm not worried about representation of the picture; it's effectively meant to be an 'etched' pattern.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12874" LastActivityDate="2018-09-12T20:30:04.120" Title="Route to transform 2d image (depth map) into a curved bracelet (and STL file)?" Tags="|3d-models|stl|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6854" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6576" CreationDate="2018-09-06T22:28:03.270" Score="20" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use my clearance values according to my rule of thumb: 0.1 mm - to fit with some force, 0.2 mm - just fit edge to edge without force.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Examples:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;3 mm metal cylinder to be pressed into plastic part needs &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$3\ mm+0.1\ mm*2=3.2\ mm$&lt;/span&gt; diameter printed hole (clearance from two sides)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;3 mm screw to fit into plastic part needs a hole bigger than &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$3\ mm+0.2\ mm*2=3.4\ mm$&lt;/span&gt; that is 3.5 mm will be already good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is fully experimental but always worked for me on three different printers and both on PLA and ABS.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11199" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2022-10-29T16:57:21.000" LastActivityDate="2022-10-29T16:57:21.000" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6855" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6853" CreationDate="2018-09-07T00:27:16.250" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;This may not be your cuppa tea, but if you're willing to learn to use &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.openscad.org/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;OpenSCAD&lt;/a&gt; or already know how, there's a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1668883/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Thingiverse&lt;/a&gt; post that appears to directly address your objective.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Correction, this particular post on Thingiverse consists of a series of Python files, of which I have zero experience/qualifications. It may still be of value, if you are Python capable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/i9Fkh.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/i9Fkh.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;santa on a mug&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another resource that is strictly OpenSCAD is from Eric Buijs, a rather talented 3D design person. His YouTube channel has a number of useful tutorials for both OpenSCAD and Solvespace. &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PNcGNqMUl5I&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;This video&lt;/a&gt; in particular describes applying a flat object to a curved one using OpenSCAD, resulting in a lithophane.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MbyOa.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MbyOa.png&quot; alt=&quot;curved lithophane&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As I created this answer, I did not re-watch the 12+ minute video, but I recall how he explains clearly how the program dissects the surface into a number of flat panels and then superimposes the image on each segment. From this presentation, I suspect one could expand to a full cylinder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastActivityDate="2018-09-07T00:27:16.250" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6856" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6576" CreationDate="2018-09-07T02:35:58.777" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since you said nozzle, I expect you mean FDM 3d printing. Typically you would use one (1) outline of gap between the parts. An outline is usually equal to the size of the nozzle. The corners of a 3d printed square object are rounded. The radius of that rounding would be half your nozzle diameter (i.e. the nozzle's radius). Also if there was any over extrusion occurring on the outline it the two parts would not fit within each other. This is of course assuming that they are being designed to easily come apart. Otherwise you can make them an exact fit if you intend to friction fit them together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12857" LastActivityDate="2018-09-07T02:35:58.777" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6858" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4945" CreationDate="2018-09-07T10:31:44.227" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think there's an easier way to do this - &lt;em&gt;if&lt;/em&gt; you're not committed to using Blender, and it sounds as if you're not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Take a look at &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.openscad.org/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.openscad.org/&lt;/a&gt; (which should run anywhere that Blender does). It's very easy to write code to produce your desired shape (in this case it would be a union of cuboids) in OpenSCAD's description language, and then you can use OpenSCAD itself to render that to STL. (It's even possible to automate this from the command line.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12877" LastActivityDate="2018-09-07T10:31:44.227" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6859" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6862" CreationDate="2018-09-07T11:15:28.410" Score="4" ViewCount="501" Body="&lt;p&gt;When exchanging the mainboard of my Ultimaker Original, I found the new (unoriginal) mainboard to have a condensator that is quite a little higher than on the original, which means the fan duct doesn't fit any more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I read somewhere that those A4988 stepper motor drivers don't have to be actively cooled, but a heatsink will be sufficient:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oJmlL.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oJmlL.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;A4988 stepper motor driver with heatsink&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After testing the theory I found the heatsinks to be really hot, but not too hot to touch. Sadly I do not have any means of temperature measurement other than my fingers...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How hot do they normally get, when should I abort printing and look for a different solution?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any good solutions other than the original cooler &amp;amp; cooling duct?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4285" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2019-09-01T08:54:23.293" LastActivityDate="2019-09-01T08:54:23.293" Title="A4988 driver cooling specifications" Tags="|ultimaker-original|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6860" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6864" CreationDate="2018-09-07T11:23:42.370" Score="4" ViewCount="438" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am using cura with M3D entry level printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I print things more than 6-7cm/2.5-3inches, at the end of the print, the hot end sink back into the print then gets stuck as it tries to return to idle position.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please see the attached photo.  Has anyone had this problem?  Thank you&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2xpD4.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2xpD4.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The last 20 lines of gcode is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;G0 X50.83 Y49.982&#xA;G1 F600 X50.541 Y49.975 E4399.62304&#xA;G1 X50.268 Y49.985 E4399.62637&#xA;G1 X49.999 Y49.999 E4399.63024&#xA;G1 X49.73 Y50.012 E4399.6341&#xA;G1 X49.457 Y50.023 E4399.63742&#xA;G1 X49.168 Y50.016 E4399.63941&#xA;G0 F7200 X49.28 Y49.87&#xA;;TIME_ELAPSED:6301.614981&#xA;G1 F1500 E4393.13941&#xA;M107&#xA;M104 S0&#xA;M140 S0&#xA;;Retract the filament&#xA;G92 E1&#xA;G1 E-1 F300&#xA;G28 X0 Y0&#xA;M84&#xA;M82 ;absolute extrusion mode&#xA;M104 S0&#xA;;End of Gcode&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12878" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2018-09-16T12:36:26.333" LastActivityDate="2018-09-16T12:36:26.333" Title="3D printer ends print by sinking in to it and getting stuck" Tags="|print-quality|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6861" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3710" CreationDate="2018-09-07T13:23:02.433" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been using a sort of a very strong hairspray called 3DLAC for about 2 years directly onto the aluminium heat bed of the Anet A8 printer I have.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically, all those sprays contain copolymer constituents, PVA (PolyVinyl Alcohol), Vinyl or Acetate.  These are also found in  certain glue sticks or wood glues. For me this spray works perfectly! On day one I assembled the printer, the paper tape tore and I was too anxious to wait for new tape to arrive. This worked so well that I have not changed it for that printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cleaning is very easy as PVA or any of those constituents are solvable in water, so a moist cloth or paper towel over the plate is all to clean it. Furthermore, you do not require to spray before every print. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To answer your question if you &lt;strong&gt;should&lt;/strong&gt; use a PVA based spray like hairspray directly onto the metal build plate is a matter of preference, but you definitely &lt;strong&gt;could&lt;/strong&gt; use it as I have been doing it for about 2 years.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;To address the comments&lt;/strong&gt;:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I spray the heat bed platform whilst it is attached to the printer. I do pull it forward and gently spray the bed or just the location where the print is going to be build. Note that you do not need to do that for every print. I recently did notice very little spray on the X guide rods (maybe I have been careless once or twice), but that has not been a problem for my Chinesium iGus ripoff plastic bearings. It is very easy to clean with a damp cloth. It also works great on the glass bed of my Ultimaker 3E, but I usually (unless when I'm lazy ;) ) remove the slate of glass before printing. You could consider shielding the rods with a piece of paper, but it has not been necessary for 2 years.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-03-27T21:23:09.190" LastActivityDate="2019-03-27T21:23:09.190" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6862" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6859" CreationDate="2018-09-07T14:09:22.503" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;A4988 become hot when a lot of current draw from them . If it is  more than 1.5 Amp. Also you will notice missing steps, missing layers, abnormal print and Stepper motor become hot .It automatically shutdown at max temp.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12398" LastEditorUserId="12398" LastEditDate="2018-09-07T14:31:12.853" LastActivityDate="2018-09-07T14:31:12.853" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6863" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6853" CreationDate="2018-09-07T14:17:25.233" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Easy peasy.  Go to &lt;a href=&quot;http://3dp.rocks/lithophane/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;3dp.rocks&lt;/a&gt;  and select the output shape you desire.  I've had excellent results making flat lithopanes.  I created a couple curved STLs which look fine in Cura; just didn't print them. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2191" LastActivityDate="2018-09-07T14:17:25.233" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6864" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6860" CreationDate="2018-09-07T14:19:44.827" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As Oscar commented, check the tail end of your gcode files.  Most slicing software includes commands to move the head to x=0,y=0 at the very least.  I am a bit surprised that your files don't appear to have this, since Cura does apply said code. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Possiblly there's something lacking in your printer's firmware and it doesn't recognize some of the gcode commands.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2191" LastActivityDate="2018-09-07T14:19:44.827" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6865" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6850" CreationDate="2018-09-07T14:25:37.827" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The answer hews close to the famous cliche &quot;In theory, theory and practice are the same. In practice, they are not.&quot;   That is to say,  yes, there is a nonlinear but repeatable relationship between viscosity and pressure and feed rate.  However, it's strongly dependent on temperature, and further the apparent viscosity is a function of the pressure (think oobleck).    &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the end, it depends mostly on whether a couple percent variation matters to the final product.  (and if it did, nearly all hobbyist extrusion printers would fail)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2191" LastActivityDate="2018-09-07T14:25:37.827" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6866" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-09-07T15:08:10.993" Score="3" ViewCount="103" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am using Prusa i3 MK2s with the first version of the multi-material add-on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as I understand, the slicer defined the used feeding motor using the &lt;code&gt;T0&lt;/code&gt;-&lt;code&gt;T3&lt;/code&gt; code which defined one feeder at the time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a way to have two feeder motors working at the same time?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12881" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-09-07T17:46:32.270" LastActivityDate="2018-09-09T07:15:17.203" Title="Using two feeders at the same time" Tags="|prusa-i3|g-code|dual-nozzle|multi-material|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6867" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6859" CreationDate="2018-09-07T15:19:58.730" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The answer to that question is not as simple as it looks as we don't see the hardware.&#xA;Main issue is the current pointed by Himanshu, that generates most of the temperature in the silicon chip. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was using drivers without active cooling, but my case was open so there was enough heat dispersion. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could do a dry run - by creating a command file with G-code like below&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;G28 &#xA;G1 X200 Y200 F6000 &#xA;G1 X0 Y0 G1 X200 Y200 &#xA;... &#xA;... copy and paste many times to have a 10 minutes run on the printer&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That will keep the stepper busy and you could observe radiator temperature and probably see/hear miss-steps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;other solution could be a duct &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youmagine.com/designs/ultimaker-2-coolboard-duct-for-control-board-cooling&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;like this one&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9730" LastActivityDate="2018-09-07T15:19:58.730" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6868" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6860" CreationDate="2018-09-07T15:49:45.030" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;As can be seen from the G-code file, the head is instructed to travel to x=0, y=0 (&lt;code&gt;G28 X0 Y0&lt;/code&gt; is actually a homing instruction to home the head and label the position with zero X and zero Y). After that it powers off the motors (&lt;code&gt;M84&lt;/code&gt;). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From your picture, it looks like the head digs in the print without moving to the home position, so &lt;code&gt;G28 X0 Y0&lt;/code&gt;  is &lt;strong&gt;not working&lt;/strong&gt; (although you mention it tries to move while digging in?!?). That is strange as there is no instruction to lower the head. Please alter &lt;code&gt;G28&lt;/code&gt; to &lt;code&gt;G0&lt;/code&gt; so that it reads:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;G0 X0 Y0&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(or &lt;code&gt;G1 X0 Y0&lt;/code&gt; which does work and will instruct the head to move). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The digging into the print could be explained by the weight of the head/carriage that cannot be held when the steppers are not powered anymore (as instructed by &lt;code&gt;M84&lt;/code&gt;). When the nozzle is hot, the nozzle will then dig into your print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit&lt;/strong&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now that I see your comment on another answer, your proprietary software may produce different G-code than Cura does, this could imply that your printer does not use a &quot;standard&quot; G-code interpreter or does not implement all G-codes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-09-13T21:06:06.827" LastActivityDate="2018-09-13T21:06:06.827" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6869" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6870" CreationDate="2018-09-08T15:54:48.133" Score="4" ViewCount="17912" Body="&lt;p&gt;After noticing that my ender 3 couldn't print a 'perfect' circle I decided to use a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1278865&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;calibration cube&lt;/a&gt; to see if that could be the issue. These were my results:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OHJOF.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OHJOF.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;X Y Z&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did have some successful prints before noticing these problems but it would be great if anyone could help/find a solution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think it may be because of the belts tension as I had accidentally over stretched it by putting it over the wheels instead of under: is it worth getting a new belt then?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I use 20% infill, with triangle pattern in cura, using the standard 0.4mm nozzle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Edit&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After doing a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3090144&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;different testprint&lt;/a&gt; and measuring, it revealed that both had an accurate 20mm Y and Z, but only an 18.5mm X. Might I have destroyed my belt when I mounted it overstrained?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Edit2:&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After purchasing a new X belt, the calibration cube was much closer at 19 x 20 x 20. But still not at a good enough tolerance for my liking. Additionally, when printing a cylinder, two relatively flat edges were printed with it either side (perpendicular to the x-axis).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12820" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:29:41.667" LastActivityDate="2020-05-15T01:16:29.237" Title="Ender 3 Calibration Cube Fail + Can't Print Circles" Tags="|print-quality|creality-ender-3|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6870" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6869" CreationDate="2018-09-08T16:34:31.227" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your top layer looks like you need to add additional top layers and there are signs of a slight bit of over-extrusion in that top layer (red). On the other hand, it looks like the top layer is not sliced nicely resulting in gaps and holes (yellow), which might be a fault of the test print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pJooa.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pJooa.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Z, defects marked&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The X on the file you used is not centered, resulting in the off look in the print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suggest you try a different calibration print before starting to tinker with the hardware, for example &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3090144&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suggest to use concentric only for the top layers and instead rely on a simple Zig-Zag pattern for the intermediate layers, as this usually generates a better connection to straight walls.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;EDIT1:&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After considering the miss-dimension in X only, you might want to look to &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/3344/calibrating-steps-order&quot;&gt;calibrate your X steps&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The stretching of the belt might be an issue, but you might get away &lt;em&gt;easy&lt;/em&gt; if you just check belt tension and manage to get it right again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As I have an ender-3 myself, I know you might need to &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6399/recalibrating-home-position&quot;&gt;flash&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6657/export-firmware-as-a-hex?noredirect=1&amp;amp;lq=1&quot;&gt;fresh&lt;/a&gt; firmware to get the ability to change the steps/mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;EDIT2:&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The 19x20x20mm cube sounds like the new belt did fix a lot of the dimensioning problem, but the steps/mm might be slightly off - or we have to trace down SOME mechanical error in the movement path. As a 140mm long test print also had a 1mm offset, a steps/mm error should be out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After examining the machine with jb &lt;a href=&quot;https://chat.stackexchange.com/rooms/83007/ender-3-calibration-cube-fail&quot;&gt;in chat&lt;/a&gt;, the bearing on the X-belt seemed to stick a tiny bit on one side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qTjdg.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qTjdg.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Ender3 X-tightener/bearing&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Turning the large bolt of the assembly in an attempt to disassemble it without a wrench to hold the self-securing nut on the far side seemed enough to lessen the pressure on the core of the bearing, allowing it to spin freely. In addition, the belt was a little loose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:29:41.667" LastActivityDate="2018-09-11T17:44:47.217" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6871" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3710" CreationDate="2018-09-09T02:16:58.650" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The adhesive that you use is determined by the type of filament that you are printing. For most types, PVA (White glue) will allow for adhesion to the build plate. Filaments like PETG will tear off the glue when it comes off the bed. PLA however does not. ABS requires ABS slurry, and Nylon sticks to PET film.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12857" LastActivityDate="2018-09-09T02:16:58.650" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6872" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6866" CreationDate="2018-09-09T07:15:17.203" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The first multi material add-on version off J. Prusa includes several separate steppers that load filament into the hot end. Note that selecting an other color will retract the existing filament so that the next filament can be loaded. There is no mixing hotend nozzle. It is therefore working serial, not parallel. Working 2 steppers at the same time will  lead to clogging the filament joining position.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2018-09-09T07:15:17.203" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6873" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6869" CreationDate="2018-09-09T11:06:46.797" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;First, check that the calibration part you have is actually a cube. Maybe you downloaded a trick 'calibration cube' model. Cura will show he overall dimensions of any model which it is slicing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ignore any print quality issues first off. A hollow calibration cube is mainly used to check the X/Y/Z motion and so long as you print at a sensible (slow) speed), the other parameters shouldn't have much effect (so long as the first layer is OK, and you get within 30% of the right extrusion).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the calibration cube is within +/- 0.5mm on each side, it's probably good. Under/over extrusion, caliper technique, etc, can explain this sort of variation, and you might want to use a bigger test part like &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2566871&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this star on my thingiverse account&lt;/a&gt; once you think you're close.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The 'steps per mm' setting is determined within the firmware, it is part of how your printer consumes G-code. For a delta printer, for example, there is some fancy maths to combine X/Y/Z into the motor movements. This means that you can't change steps/mm in Cura, you need to either change the firmware defaults and 'reset to factory settings', or modify the parameters in EEPROM by sending G-code.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Seeing too small a calibration part (for a Cartesian printer) can easily be explained by problems in the printer's motion system:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Stepper missing steps due to jerk or acceleration too high&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Stepper missing steps due to binding/friction in the bearings (Send &lt;code&gt;M84&lt;/code&gt; to idle the stepper motor, and move X by hand)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Teeth missing on the drive belt (may show up on a diagonal 'bar' print)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Loose drive pinion (maybe backlash on the flat on the spindle means the problem is greater on small parts) - see below&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Flex in the drive mechanism (e.g. belt mount to traveller is loose)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An annoying feature of a lot of these problems is that for any particular repetitive sequence of steps, you might see a very consistent result. Even thought to problem is something being badly adjusted, it gives the impression that the problem is calibration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The drive wheel is held in place with a grub screw, see this diagram from the Anet-A8 assembly diagram.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1C3fcb.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1C3fcb.png&quot; alt=&quot;Anet X-drive&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4927" LastEditorUserId="4927" LastEditDate="2018-09-11T14:22:50.530" LastActivityDate="2018-09-11T14:22:50.530" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6874" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4251" CreationDate="2018-09-09T13:27:53.953" Score="7" Body="&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;None of the answers address your question to solve it! The only sensible contribution comes from a comment of &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/26/tom-van-der-zanden&quot;&gt;@TomvanderZanden&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the sensor to stay &lt;em&gt;within&lt;/em&gt; the limits of the bed (considering the offset of the sensor and the size of the hotend carriage) you need to define where the sensor (plus carriage) may go to (to keep the sensor also on the bed, you also need to define the &lt;a href=&quot;/q/8153/&quot;&gt;sensor limits&lt;/a&gt;). The suggested constants are important in defining the size of the bed and the build volume, but changing them does in fact do not solve your problem. Your problem is that you need to address where the sensor may probe within that specified volume i.e. the sensor probing area.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I use ABL (Auto Bel Leveling) on my Anet A8 using a left-front mounted sensor at position (&lt;code&gt;x = -26 mm&lt;/code&gt;; &lt;code&gt;y = -40 mm&lt;/code&gt; seen from the nozzle center). In order to have the sensor on the bed area without running into the limits of the carriage, you have to calculate (yourself!) what the dimension of the auto bed leveling area is. This is because the sensor is off set from the nozzle. If the sensor reaches for the whole bed, you need extra space on the axis. To explain this, if your &lt;strong&gt;sensor is at the left front&lt;/strong&gt;, as in my case, the amount of extra space you have &lt;strong&gt;left on the right side&lt;/strong&gt; of the X carriage will determine how far the carriage may go and thus limits the right probe position. If there is no extra space on the carriage (the safest assumption) you just need to add the sensor offset to the maximum bed size (what the nozzle can reach). E.g. my probe X offset is &lt;code&gt;-26 mm&lt;/code&gt;. The maximum probe distance is therefore &lt;code&gt;-26 mm + 220 mm = 194 mm&lt;/code&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This means that you need to set the following constants (amongst the settings to enable ABL; the probe and the type of leveling...) in the configuration.h of your Marlin Firmware installation:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#define X_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER -26   // X offset: -left  +right  [of the nozzle]&#xA;#define Y_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER -40   // Y offset: -front +behind [the nozzle]&#xA;&#xA;// Set the boundaries for probing (where the probe can reach).&#xA;#define LEFT_PROBE_BED_POSITION (0 + 10)         // 10&#xA;#define RIGHT_PROBE_BED_POSITION (220 - 26 - 10) // 184&#xA;#define BACK_PROBE_BED_POSITION (220 - 40 - 10)  // 170&#xA;#define FRONT_PROBE_BED_POSITION (0 + 10)        // 10&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Furthermore the settings you do mention need to be:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;// The size of the print bed&#xA;#define X_BED_SIZE 220&#xA;#define Y_BED_SIZE 220&#xA;&#xA;// Travel limits (mm) after homing, corresponding to endstop positions.&#xA;#define X_MIN_POS -33 // Distance from end switch to X = 0 of origin&#xA;#define Y_MIN_POS -10 // Distance from end switch to Y = 0 of origin&#xA;#define Z_MIN_POS 0&#xA;#define X_MAX_POS X_BED_SIZE&#xA;#define Y_MAX_POS Y_BED_SIZE&#xA;#define Z_MAX_POS 240&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;code&gt;-33&lt;/code&gt; and the &lt;code&gt;-10&lt;/code&gt;  define how much the nozzle needs to travel from the endstop position to the print origin! This is not necessary to change when using ABL with a sensor (unless you are using a different print head carriage with a different center of the nozzle). Why these values are &lt;code&gt;-33&lt;/code&gt; and &lt;code&gt;-10&lt;/code&gt; (or values close to this; e.g. for my printer they are &lt;code&gt;-36&lt;/code&gt; and &lt;code&gt;-8&lt;/code&gt;) is explained in &lt;a href=&quot;/a/6376/&quot;&gt;this answer&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-04-22T04:33:39.557" LastActivityDate="2019-04-22T04:33:39.557" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6876" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6860" CreationDate="2018-09-10T11:04:37.790" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;For some reason the &lt;code&gt;G28&lt;/code&gt; command to home X and Y is not having an effect. I wonder if there is something 'special' in the firmware that affects how it homes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can try to replace the G28 with a move (and maybe a different location would be better to place the extruder in the best position for removing your print).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;G1 X0 Y0 ;Move to home position&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Best would be to look at one of the included 'pre sliced' models that are usually included with a printer to check the manufacturer's default end sequence.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might also be able to configure Cura to move up at the end of the print (so long as the print is not at maximum height).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4927" LastActivityDate="2018-09-10T11:04:37.790" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6878" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6936" CreationDate="2018-09-10T22:44:53.173" Score="7" ViewCount="9437" Body="&lt;p&gt;Really strange observation with my MP Select Mini V2 printing PLA. I've printed a dual-fan shroud so I can have a dedicated part-cooling fan. I've noticed that when I turn it on, the extruder starts stringing everywhere. Little tiny spider-web wisps. No amount of temperature change will make them go away (printing at 200&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C). But if I simply turn off the part-cooling fan, I get a perfect print. This doesn't make sense to me - isn't the part-cooling fan supposed to reduce stringing by cooling the filament faster?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More info: Using Ultimaker Cura 3.4.1, retraction enabled at 3.5&amp;nbsp;mm and 40&amp;nbsp;mm/s, which works great when the part-cooling fan is OFF. But when I turn it on without changing any other settings, I get stringing everywhere.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please see picture below. The part on the left was printed using the part-cooling fan and the one on the right was printed without the part-cooling fan. No other changes. The part-cooling fan is pictured in upper left (bottom fan).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dB744.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Two printed fan shrouds&quot; title=&quot;Two printed fan shrouds&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why does my part-cooling fan cause stringing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that I print at 0.175&amp;nbsp;mm layer height, or &quot;Normal&quot; for the MP Mini. The cooling fan can be controlled but if I turn it completely off then the cold end part of the nozzle won't get actively cooled. Using Cura I can slowly increase the fan over the first several levels as well, but I'm worried that if the cold end doesn't stay cold it will get clogged up with melted filament. I will try some different fan speed settings and report back - currently running at 100&amp;nbsp;% all the time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;I went back to the stock shroud with single fan to remove variables. The stock shroud has a small vent at the bottom where air blows over the part, but not much. I had the same problem - I had to put a piece of tape over the blow hole to get the part to print without strings. I also couldn't get the PLA to stick to the bed easily when the blow hole was open. I'm not using the heated bed in any cases - I've found I can print most PLA without heating the bed at all. I'm beginning to think maybe this PLA is just extremely temperature sensitive. The brand is 3D Solutech Printer Filament Real Black.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12909" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-09-16T06:23:43.627" LastActivityDate="2019-09-16T06:23:43.627" Title="Why does my part-cooling fan cause stringing?" Tags="|extruder|print-quality|pla|cooling|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6879" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6880" CreationDate="2018-09-11T05:34:32.090" Score="8" ViewCount="1544" Body="&lt;p&gt;A corner of my model curled up, causing the head to crash into it.  The Prusa MK3 detected the error, printed a message to that effect, and moved the print head to the home position.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was surprised when printing immediately resumed, and of course immediately went awry as it pulled the model off the print bed and dragged it around.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is it expected that printing stops when a head crash is detected?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If so, does Octoprint recognize this condition and stop printing?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6851" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-12-16T18:25:23.370" LastActivityDate="2019-12-16T18:25:23.370" Title="Does Octoprint stop printing on Crash Detection?" Tags="|prusa-i3|octoprint|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6880" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6879" CreationDate="2018-09-11T07:46:05.903" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;You are describing precisely how the crash detection should work on the Prusa Mk3, so it is doing exactly what it should do. If you look into &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KDJq0WplXb0&amp;amp;feature=youtu.be&amp;amp;t=145&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this video from Jozef Prusa&lt;/a&gt; you will see him explaining that in case a crash is detected (steps missed are registered because the Mk3 uses trinamic stepper drivers), the print head is homed and will immediately restart printing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please do read &lt;a href=&quot;https://shop.prusa3d.com/forum/others-archive--f66/octoprint-with-mk3-crash-detection-missed-lines-of-t15123.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this interesting post&lt;/a&gt;; it describes your similar problems: after detection it resumes. He noteworthy mentions that even a few lines of G-code went missing, this is probably caused by the fact that OctoPrint buffers a few commands or something that get lost because the Pruse Mk3 crash fail safe kicks in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In effect, OctoPrint is just a simple supplier of G-code commands and does not recognize the problem to act on it and will therefore continue sending new commands after the Prusa Mk3 crash has recovered (sending &lt;code&gt;ok&lt;/code&gt; to OctoPrint for receiving new commands) from the crash and re-homed and got the temperatures back to normal levels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An existing plugin for OctoPrint may help you in this case. The &lt;a href=&quot;https://plugins.octoprint.org/plugins/actiontrigger/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Action Trigger Plugin&lt;/a&gt; is able to detect events, but have to be implemented in your firmware. E.g. the action for filament &lt;a href=&quot;https://plugins.octoprint.org/plugins/actiontrigger/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;describes&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;This trigger will pause the print and home the X and Y axis, giving&#xA;  the user the opportunity to change out the filament. The print needs&#xA;  to be resumed manually through the UI.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maybe it can be configured to pick up the existing event and issue a pause. It could be worth looking into this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Looking closer to the ActionTrigger plugin I noticed that you cannot configure it and the &quot;manual&quot; is very terse. I guess this might involve some serious hacking...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-09-11T18:18:54.267" LastActivityDate="2018-09-11T18:18:54.267" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6881" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6829" CreationDate="2018-09-11T14:49:08.983" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have solved the problem. After some investigation I have decided to connect directly to the drivers board. It needs to be disconnected from Olimex board and instead connected to the PC, then select 250kbps speed, COM port can be found through Device manager. I have used Repetier-Host in not Easy Mode and all possible messages turned on to see all possible messages. Then I prepared 20mm box to print and tried to print. After two lines voila! Error message: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;12:35:32.401 : N187 M105*41&#xA;12:35:32.841 : Error:0&#xA;12:35:32.841 : : Extruder switched off. MINTEMP triggered !&#xA;12:35:32.924 : Error:Printer stopped due to errors.  &#xA;Fix the error and use M999 to restart!. (Temperature is reset. Set it before restarting)  &#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now I went for quick search and learned that this can be caused by intermittent fault of thermistor or its wiring. &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JcbMv.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JcbMv.png&quot; alt=&quot;Thermistor connection on Creatr HS&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA; So, I disconnected thermistor from the PCB and checked its resistance: 170kohm. Now, when I moved the extruders on X axis there was a particular position when thermistor resistance went to infinity. There is a connector in head which went loose. After refitting the printer is behaving correctly.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;Summary:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;It is a shame, that the display on this machine does not present any feedback from the drivers board. Also, the PC connectivity on the rear of this printer does not bring any clear information (rear USB is first connected to the Olimex PCB and then to the drivers PCB, some information from drivers PCB are lost). BTW: Leapfrog drivers board is an Arduino based Marlin firmware. Info sent to serial connection after connectivity established is: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Leapfrog Firmware: 2.5  &#xA;Model: CreatrHS &#xA;PROTOCOL_VERSION: 1.0 &#xA;FIRMWARE_NAME:Marlin V1; &#xA;Extruder offset X: 15.23 Y: 0.02&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12847" LastActivityDate="2018-09-11T14:49:08.983" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6882" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6747" CreationDate="2018-09-11T15:31:08.430" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Fixed this by replacing the hotend.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user12769" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-02-04T08:18:00.037" LastActivityDate="2021-02-04T08:18:00.037" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6883" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6908" CreationDate="2018-09-11T15:35:51.963" Score="3" ViewCount="2644" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;problem solved by resetting cura.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have problems like this: How can I fix this? I can't find the right setting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2cf9Q.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;No top layer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2cf9Q.png&quot; alt=&quot;No top layer&quot; title=&quot;No top layer&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, what are these yellow lines? Do you know how to remove them? They disappear when I disable to show the brim/raft/skirt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Bj7Sx.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Yellow lines #1&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Bj7Sx.png&quot; alt=&quot;Yellow lines #1&quot; title=&quot;Yellow lines #1&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BnAc4.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Yellow lines #2&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BnAc4.png&quot; alt=&quot;Yellow lines #2&quot; title=&quot;Yellow lines #2&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user12769" LastEditorDisplayName="user12769" LastEditDate="2018-09-13T12:39:30.353" LastActivityDate="2018-09-13T16:53:48.840" Title="(Cura setting) How can I fix this? No top layer" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|software|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6884" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6883" CreationDate="2018-09-11T15:56:18.383" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm pretty sure the yellow lines are showing the full path of the extruder head, including where it's retracted.  Somewhere in Cura's maze of menus, there's an option to turn on/off various displays related to the slicing.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As to why the top layer isn't there -- most likely it's too thin in your source  model.  You might try enabling &quot;Print thin walls&quot; options in the Preferences advanced list.  BTW, if you post the original STL or CAD file, we might be able to provide more accurate diagnosis.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2191" LastActivityDate="2018-09-11T15:56:18.383" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6885" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="403" CreationDate="2018-09-11T17:57:04.880" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;For some unknown reason, everywhere everybody is saying that Z stepper motors need to be connected in parallel... And this was always the only obvious way, until recently some people started to connect these motors in series.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And I personally started to believe the right way is to connect them in series.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All stepstick drivers are some kind of current limiting devices (you could read more about chopper mode). It is all about current.&#xA;Connecting in series will guarantee that both motors receive the same current in all situations. And as result you could expect the same behaviour from both of them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bad thing when they are in parallel, is that the motor with the bigger load will get more current and as a result the other one will get less current and could skip steps. Of course, in an ideal situation, this should never happen but don't forget about Murphy's law (&quot;whatever can go wrong, will go wrong&quot;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One more thing - why did I change my wiring and connected my Z motors in series: At some moment I found that one Z motor was disconnected but the other one was working and this resulted in a broken printer geometry. When Z motors are in series and if one of them fails or disconnects, the other one will not work either. You will get always synchronous operation from both of them!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I made this Z splitter that works fantastic: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WM9F3.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Z splitter&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WM9F3.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Z splitter&quot; title=&quot;Z splitter&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11199" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2019-04-14T18:18:03.593" LastActivityDate="2019-04-14T18:18:03.593" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6886" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-09-11T18:40:57.507" Score="4" ViewCount="1906" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently purchased an Anycubic Kossel Linear Plus delta printer, and I'm interested in trying to print slightly below the 0.1 mm stated lower limit of layer height. I'm not interested in trying to push much below 0.06 mm, more just 0.08 mm to give some better surface roughness on critical parts. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've found several articles that suggest that going below 0.1 mm requires lowering the printing speed, but the top answer on &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/2815/ultimaker-layer-resolution-vs-nozzle-size&quot;&gt;this question&lt;/a&gt; suggests that there are flow rates to consider in order to prevent jamming.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm referring to PLA in particular as I have read that the filament viscosity is also a factor, with ABS differing from PLA. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm interested in some benchmark settings, preferably for 0.08 mm printing. What is the ballpark range my print speed should be in to successfully print at that height?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12915" LastActivityDate="2018-09-12T04:13:03.780" Title="Print speed and settings for printing below 0.1mm resolution on PLA" Tags="|pla|delta|layer-height|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6887" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6618" CreationDate="2018-09-11T21:03:26.540" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The most common setup is 1.75&amp;nbsp;mm filament inside PTFE tube with 2&amp;nbsp;mm internal diameter and 4&amp;nbsp;mm outside diameter. The 4&amp;nbsp;mm outside diameter goes inside pneumatic push in 4&amp;nbsp;mm tube connector with  1/8 BSP thread that goes somewhere like E3D extruder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is very arguable if PTFE tube not significantly elastic. Apart from elasticity the filament some kind of compressing inside forming the sinus like line along the tube. And it has several places where it pushes at the tube wall and this deforms it slightly from circular to ellipse shape. All these effects accumulates with the length of the tube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But in theory all these have minor effect if the feed rate is around the same value (the first order forces equalize and effect could be eliminated with proper retraction value). The bigger effect will be if feed rate changes and as result internal compression in the tube will vary and as result the melted filament will go out slightly off time. And this will affect quality but slightly and in some places of the print. Basically the motion variance will do some kind of coloring of the print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am personally recommend to use reinforced tube.&#xA;The best tube I found is 5&amp;nbsp;mm bike gear outer cable. It is steel reinforced with internal PTFE lining that perfectly suits 1.75&amp;nbsp;mm filament. Also it has outer layer of some kind of plastic that fit really well inside 5&amp;nbsp;mm push fit connector. The only problem is that 5&amp;nbsp;mm push fit connectors not common but you could find them on ebay as I did.&#xA;Another advantage of this cable is that you could cut out couple of centimetres of outer plastic at one end and the result steel shell will be 4&amp;nbsp;mm in diameter and goes deep inside E3D extruder.&#xA;The steel layer of this cable is actually spring and it makes this cable really perfect for 3D printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11199" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-09-23T10:24:43.053" LastActivityDate="2019-09-23T10:24:43.053" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6888" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6860" CreationDate="2018-09-11T21:22:17.057" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;From the provided G-code:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;G28 X0 Y0&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The meaning of the &lt;code&gt;G28&lt;/code&gt; code is &lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#G28:_Move_to_Origin_.28Home.29&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;move printhead to home&lt;/a&gt;.  In theory, the presence or absence of &lt;code&gt;X&lt;/code&gt;, &lt;code&gt;Y&lt;/code&gt;, and &lt;code&gt;Z&lt;/code&gt; values are used to indicate which axes the printhead should move on, but as the RepRap wiki notes, some printers ignore this, typically interpreting any &lt;code&gt;G28&lt;/code&gt; code as &quot;move to 0,0,0&quot;.  In particular:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Because the behavior of G28 is unspecified, it is recommended not to automatically include G28 in your ending GCode. On a Cartesian this will result in damaging the printed object. If you need to move the carriage at the completion of a print, use G0 or G1.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should probably replace the code with &lt;code&gt;G1 X0 Y0 Z[value near the top of your printer]&lt;/code&gt;.  You could simply replace &lt;code&gt;G28 X0 Y0&lt;/code&gt; with &lt;code&gt;G1 X0 Y0&lt;/code&gt;, but that risks dragging the tip of the nozzle across the upper surface of the finished print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="48" LastActivityDate="2018-09-11T21:22:17.057" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6889" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6853" CreationDate="2018-09-11T23:26:40.490" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is the best and simplest way I've found to transform a flat design into a 3D object that you can then save as an STL file: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ows2QTiMRPg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Blender-Converting 2D Image to 3D Object&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This solution requires you to use &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.blender.org/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Blender&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;https://inkscape.org/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Inkscape&lt;/a&gt;, both softwares are open-source and available for free at this time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As suggested below by @Greenonline, I will provide a step by step in case the video is removed from Youtube. I'm sorry that I cannot provide screenshots at the moment, but I'm on a trip and writing from an old laptop that cannot run either Blender or Inkscape.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Load your image in Inkscape.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Format is unimportant as long as Inkscape can read it. It works with black and white and color images, but please note that color information won't be sent to Blender in the end, you'll have to add color materials yourself once the picture has been converted to a 3D object.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Select the image or the portion of it that you want to turn into a 3D object.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;For some unknown reason, Inkscape doesn't automatically select the image you loaded into it, so you have to do it manually. When the image is selected, it will be surrounded by a dotted line and you'll see arrows appear on the sides and corners.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Go to Path &gt; Trace Bitmap, or use Shift+Alt+B, and a pop-up window will appear. Keep the default settings, just make sure that the 'Remove background' option, located at the bottom of the window, is checked, then click OK.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You can see the result of the operation in the 'Preview' window. If the 'Preview' is empty, just click on the 'Update' button located below 'Preview'. If it is still empty after you clicked on 'Update', then you haven't selected your picture as indicated in Step 2!&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Got to File &gt; Save As and save your file as 'Plain svg'.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Saving as 'Inkscape svg' should work as well, but it's always best to use the standard format.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And you're done with Inkscape, time to switch to Blender.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol start=&quot;5&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Go to File &gt; Import &gt; Scalable Vector Graphics (.svg) and import the picture you just created in Inkscape.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you do not see Scalable Vector Graphics (.svg) in the list of importable files, it means the add-on hasn't been activated. You can do it by going to File &gt; User Preferences &gt; Add-ons then typing 'svg' in the search field will bring up the relevant add-on (Import-Export: Scalable Vector Graphics (SVG) format). Clicking the checkbox next to it's name will automatically activate it.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The picture will usually appear very small in Blender. Press 5 on the numeric keyboard to home onto it, then you can stretch it to the desired size by using the relevant tools in Blender. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It might be a good idea to move the object center into the middle of the geometry, although, from personal experience, you can do it after it becomes 3D without too much trouble.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Your picture has been loaded in Blender as a Curve object. Go to the 'Curve' tab and in the 'Geometry' sub-menu you can use the 'Extrude' slider to give depth to your picture.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Finally, once you've extruded your curve to your satisfaction, go to Object &gt; Convert To &gt; Mesh from Curve/Meta/Surf/Text, or use Alt+C, and voila, you're done!&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You know have a nice 3D object made of polygons that you can modify at your leisure using Blender's tools.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12917" LastEditorUserId="12917" LastEditDate="2018-09-12T20:30:04.120" LastActivityDate="2018-09-12T20:30:04.120" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6890" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6892" CreationDate="2018-09-12T00:02:34.023" Score="5" ViewCount="6776" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can the glTF format be used for 3D printing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If not, is there any tool can convert it to another format such as STL, OBJ, STEP, and IGES? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12918" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-09-12T06:34:38.160" LastActivityDate="2018-09-12T13:47:06.297" Title="Can the glTF format be used for 3D printing?" Tags="|3d-design|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6891" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6886" CreationDate="2018-09-12T04:13:03.780" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;To answer this question for anyone who will find this of use, I printed &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1278865&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this calibration cube&lt;/a&gt; at 25mm to a side (125% scale in Cura) with my Kossel Plus using the following settings:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;0.08 mm layer height&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;45 mm/s print speed&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;200°C extruder temperature with PLA&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Based on articles I read, I wanted to play it safe with the speed, staying well below the printer's rated speed of 60 mm/s, but still keeping the speed reasonably high to avoid any nozzle flow issues as describe in the linked question. The results were pretty good for a first test; the deviations, as measured with calipers:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;X: -0.09 mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Y: +0.38 mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Z: +0.11 mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This makes the average deviation across all axes about 0.13 mm, which is better than what I was hoping for, as that is about 5/3 of a layer's thickness. Whether or not running slower (or faster) or modifying temperature will result in better accuracy, I cannot be sure - but in this case, running the speed conservatively yielded positive results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12915" LastActivityDate="2018-09-12T04:13:03.780" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6892" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6890" CreationDate="2018-09-12T06:48:20.700" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;As far as can be found it should be possible to convert glTF into STL (or OBJ).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could try to use an online converter to do this, e.g. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.greentoken.de/onlineconv/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this one (greentoken)&lt;/a&gt;; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://assimp.sourceforge.net/main_features_formats.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this (assimp)&lt;/a&gt; may be useful too. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to &lt;a href=&quot;https://b2b.partcommunity.com/community/faq/view/211/95/105/0/how-to-convert-3d-models-between-file-formats-i-e-fbx-to-obj-o&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; greentoken supports glTF as input and STL as output, but it is reported by @Trish that that does not work. Assimp could output STL files which then could be used by slicer programs to generate the specific G-code file to print the model on your printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-09-12T13:47:06.297" LastActivityDate="2018-09-12T13:47:06.297" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6894" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6890" CreationDate="2018-09-12T13:46:32.263" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, &lt;code&gt;gltf&lt;/code&gt; is not a format that slicers accept commonly, and indeed, it is not even intended to be reverseable in the 1.0 format version. This has changed a little for the 2.0 standard. Some programs that allow exporting into the sliceable &lt;code&gt;stl&lt;/code&gt; and  &lt;code&gt;obj&lt;/code&gt; formats can also import &lt;code&gt;gltf&lt;/code&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.blender.org/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;blender&lt;/a&gt; has an &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/KhronosGroup/glTF-Blender-IO&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;importer plugin&lt;/a&gt; - more  info &lt;a href=&quot;https://blender.stackexchange.com/questions/93415/how-to-open-a-glb-or-gltf-file-in-blender&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.sketchup.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;SketchUpp&lt;/a&gt; has an &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.simlab-soft.com/3d-plugins/GLTF_Importer_For_Sketchup-main.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;importer plugin&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You have to be careful though: formats like &lt;code&gt;dae&lt;/code&gt; or &lt;code&gt;stl&lt;/code&gt; are meant to transfer 3d objects usually without the loss of information or with just a minimal loss (stl, for example, does technically not contain a &lt;em&gt;scale&lt;/em&gt; natively), while &lt;code&gt;gltf&lt;/code&gt; is end users and &lt;a href=&quot;https://stackoverflow.com/questions/40549453/is-there-a-way-to-convert-gltf-to-dae&quot;&gt;does not contain all the information&lt;/a&gt;. This can lead to models getting distorted and destroyed on importing them into a rendering or modeling software.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastActivityDate="2018-09-12T13:46:32.263" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6895" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5241" CreationDate="2018-09-12T14:45:08.887" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Linear rails will always produce a high degree of accuracy and stability and more so than round rod with PTFE bushings and/or bearings. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One may argue the fact however even as a product developer and one who is involved with the mechanicals and development of machinery on a day to day basis comparing the two we see “significant” improvements using rails over rods and if properly utilized on a Z axis print bed you will have a bed free of leveling issues that can smoothly and accurately operate with one driver versus two. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I will further add that getting rods aligned perfectly is a difficult task for the average person and even a slight twist or angular position can affect final print quality. I’ve seen many linear rods that appear visually straight and when chucked into a lathe spindle with 0.0000 accuracy there will be 0.005 or more in runout. In fact I’ve yet to see one perfecting concentric motion that is longer than 6 inches. This tells me that they cannot plausibly be as accurate and that while they may function they will never function with a high degree of accuracy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do we need higher accuracy in 3D printer axis? Sure we can have quality control boards that compensate to some degree however the mechanics of the machine are utmost important before you choose the quality of board and software. Why install a \$300 motion control on a cheap linear rod printer if you’re not going to see the full benefits? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With technology further advancing into 64 bit and eventually 128 bit and higher degrees of precisional accuracy 3D printing is turning a page and will if not already be capable of micro resolutional accuracy and can only do so if all the components function properly together. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So sure, your rod guided printer works. However, it will never work as well as my linear rail guided printer with ballscrews and servos. You can have your layered fuzzy prints. I will keep my smooth finished injection molded looking parts that are made from materials a typical desktop cannot even print. So to argue it’s not needed is arguing that high quality isn’t accepted in a lower price point market. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One other addition here. Ask yourself how level and square is your printer? I’m not talking about using a carpenter's level for checking your machine they can be inaccurate up to a 1/4” per 10 feet. When you can dial your printers bed down to 0.00005 or less every direction and your structure is just as accurate than you know what a quality printer and print looks like.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I guarantee no printer priced \$300-\$1000 comes even close to that degree of accuracy. The average consumer is so drawn into the technology of a final print itself they overlook the precisional aspects involved and learn to settle for less. Then you wouldn’t expect your \$500 printer to compete with my \$10,000 printer either. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bottom line you get what you pay for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12926" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2019-08-31T18:09:25.540" LastActivityDate="2019-08-31T18:09:25.540" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6896" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6900" CreationDate="2018-09-12T15:00:15.403" Score="10" ViewCount="11052" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking for clamps to fix the glass on my heatbed. After some search I found that some people use clamps printed of PLA. Can I use PLA clamps for a heated heatbed (~60&amp;nbsp;°C)? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also tried foldback clips but they block my nozzle. The Anet A8 starts in the front left corner. When I start to print, the nozzle moves a little bit up on z, then up on y and right on x. At this first move it moves into the fold back clip. I'm looking for a way to fix the corners and not to fix the edge in the middle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What other clamps or clips can I use to fix the glass (~3&amp;nbsp;mm) on the heatbed (~2.5&amp;nbsp;mm)? I don't want to use glue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My printer is an Anet A8.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12698" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2019-11-06T14:08:47.430" LastActivityDate="2019-11-06T14:08:47.430" Title="Clamps / clips for glass on heatbed" Tags="|heated-bed|anet-a8|glass-bed|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6897" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6896" CreationDate="2018-09-12T15:40:35.877" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Let's analyze the problem:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;We have a 5.5 mm total thickness.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;We want to (semi)permanently affix the two layers together mechanically.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The clips shall not be higher than about 0.2 mm to allow the nozzle to pass over them.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;(non)Solution attempt zero:&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's look at the problem objectively... we can print something, can we? Well... 0.2 mm or below of PLA means 0.2mm of PLA that need to withstand the stress of trying to push the glass to the bed. PLA, just like any plastic, isn't super strong in thin layers, especially when heated to 60°C to get a good bed adhesion. And then you might want to print something like ABS, which demands an 80°C or higher bed temperature. The result will not be pretty: either the clip breaks after a very short time or it starts to bend. The result: no clip, bed slipping free.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Solution attempt one:&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's look at old picture frames that consist of just a glass sheet and a paper/wood backing. A &amp;quot;Frameless Picture Frame&amp;quot; like &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.picture-frames-warehouse.com/P-19784/Glass-Clip-Photo-Frame-Is-Frameless-With-A-Tempered-Glass-Overlay&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this one&lt;/a&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;. These clips do need some kind of mounting on the underside.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using this design as a base, you might either get these clips or make similar ones yourself. But how to mount them?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Well, here comes the nice part: we got some options.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Glue or solder the clips to the underside of the bed. Removing the sheet gets a PITA, but is still possible&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cutting mounting slots for the clips. The sheet can be removed by removing the clips now. But the bed heating might not like us cutting slots into the aluminium.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Adding a mounting point. Again, we can use glue or solder to add some kind of framework that we mount the clips to. Like a piece of aluminium U-profile with the opening to the centre of the bed, giving us mounting points for the clips.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1 - This was just the first one that I found that had the right setup. I am not affiliated with them and don't get money for this.&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Solution attempt two:&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Take this idea up a notch and look for this same principle applied.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.3dprintandstuff.co.uk/shop/glass-retaining-clips-swiss-made&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&amp;quot;Swiss Made Glass Retaining Clip&amp;quot;&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/6898/8884&quot;&gt;Perplexed Dipole&lt;/a&gt; mentioned. Good idea, and instead of having to cut a notch into the aluminium bed, a simple, small hole would be sufficient. About the same price than a frameless picture frame but less construction work!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And then there is, of course, the option to look at the Ultimaker and its &lt;a href=&quot;https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/19947-replacing-the-build-plate-clamps&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Build Plate Clamps&lt;/a&gt; like &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/6900/8884&quot;&gt;0scar&lt;/a&gt; mentioned. If you can get them (also in the same price range as the other options) you even might have an easy installation: they are supposed to be mounted in the corners of the build plate by being held by the springs. For the A8, you'll have to possibly adjust the mounting point some, maybe even give them a little nub to pivot around to secure them in place, but this clearly is a solution too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:29:41.667" LastActivityDate="2018-09-13T05:15:29.317" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6898" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6896" CreationDate="2018-09-12T16:48:23.757" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are some clips similar to Trish's answer that aren't mounted but have a spring in them to apply pressure. Looks like they are called Swiss clips: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.3dprintandstuff.co.uk/shop/glass-retaining-clips-swiss-made&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Glass retaining clips – Swiss made&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4Y0hV.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Swiss clips&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4Y0hV.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Swiss clips&quot; title=&quot;Swiss clips&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11097" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-09-12T17:51:26.383" LastActivityDate="2018-09-12T17:51:26.383" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6899" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6896" CreationDate="2018-09-12T17:38:32.267" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;They might not work for every printer, but how about old fashioned &lt;em&gt;bulldog clips&lt;/em&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UUB0D.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Bulldog clips&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UUB0D.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Bulldog clips&quot; title=&quot;Bulldog clips&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Attached at both end in the y-axis, they will avoid your Z-axis rods and frame (attached in the direction of the x-axis I have noticed them catch against the Z-axis frame). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Like so (except the image below uses the &lt;em&gt;foldback clips&lt;/em&gt; that (I assume that) you refer to):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MaatM.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MaatM.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The lever/handles aren't as long as those on foldback clips, and more sturdy too. Also, they have no curled edge that can catch the nozzle if mounted right.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should obviously route any wiring/tubes away from the clips travel at the rear of the printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4762" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2018-09-13T12:00:19.113" LastActivityDate="2018-09-13T12:00:19.113" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6900" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6896" CreationDate="2018-09-12T18:01:42.630" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;How about the Ultimaker clips? Ultimaker uses 2&amp;nbsp;mm heat bed and 4&amp;nbsp;mm glass, that should be within reach by bending the clips a bit. They have quite a low profile/footprint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kdjTts.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kdjTts.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mxLEss.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mxLEss.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vPkxUs.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vPkxUs.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These clamps are very cheap and can be found on those typical auction or Chinese sites.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively, you can also tape the glass to the aluminium bed using kapton tape if you are concerned about hitting the binder clips. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that e.g. in Marlin firmware, you can define a Z-offset to prevent hitting the binder clips on movement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-04-21T14:48:54.497" LastActivityDate="2019-04-21T14:48:54.497" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6901" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6896" CreationDate="2018-09-12T22:34:55.127" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;PLA has two problems that keep it from being usable for your purposes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, it deforms under load.  I've used printed C-clamps for various jobs; by the time I'm done, the clamp is generally warped by 10+ millimeters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second, PLA has a very low heat tolerance.  The glass transition temperature of PLA is around 60-65°C, right around your intended heatbed temperature, so not only will your clamps deform from the load, the plastic will flow from the heat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you were printing on a cold bed, you might be able to use printed clamps, printing out a fresh set whenever deformation of the current set gets too high.  On a heated bed, not a chance.  Look for some sort of metal spring-based clips instead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="48" LastActivityDate="2018-09-12T22:34:55.127" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6902" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6906" CreationDate="2018-09-12T22:55:02.340" Score="5" ViewCount="392" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been having issues with a vase print using a FlashForge Creator Pro. &#xA;I am using the default slicer for the printer(FlashPrint) because the Creator Pro only accepts &lt;code&gt;.x3g&lt;/code&gt; rather than &lt;code&gt;.g&lt;/code&gt;/&lt;code&gt;.gcode&lt;/code&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The issue is that the printer seems to be both under extruding and over extruding. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pvK6Q.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pvK6Q.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Under and Over Extrusion&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am printing ASA filament at 0.18&amp;nbsp;mm layer height at 240&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C with a heated bed at 110&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C. I am running the print with the fan on. I am also running at 80&amp;nbsp;mm/s print speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have tried both lowering and raising the temperature, changing the print speed from 80&amp;nbsp;mm/s to 60&amp;nbsp;mm/s, and changing the extrusion multiplier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At this point I am not really sure what to do in order to get this to print nicely, any advice would be welcome.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After a few more prints and the link that &quot;E-Doe&quot; posted I am beginning to think that the problem might be with the z-axis. My reason for thinking this is that the layers that bulge out do so consistently for the entire layer and then stop for a bit. I think I also ruled out temperature variation. I measured the temperature in the enclosure with a separate device and it stayed pretty constant the whole time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not really sure how to fix that but I will call this question answered.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12914" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2019-08-31T09:27:06.337" LastActivityDate="2019-08-31T09:27:06.337" Title="Unknown issue affecting print quality" Tags="|print-quality|troubleshooting|extrusion|asa|flashforge-creator|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6903" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4945" CreationDate="2018-09-12T23:19:42.560" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Blender imports all STL files as if they are a single object. If you have multiple meshes in the object that you want to be separated, you can press tab to enter edit mode, select the parts that need to be separated, then hit P and separate by selected.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to print those pieces as one part you have to get rid of any internal faces. The easiest way to do that is to select an object and then use the boolean modifier in union mode. Once you have the object that you want to fuse selected and in place, apply the modifier, that should leave you with an object without internal faces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12914" LastActivityDate="2018-09-12T23:19:42.560" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6904" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6905" CreationDate="2018-09-13T05:57:50.193" Score="6" ViewCount="1222" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;I asked this question as a small question under an &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/6365/5740&quot;&gt;answer&lt;/a&gt; of another &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6364/how-bed-leveling-is-achieved-without-table-screws&quot;&gt;question (How bed leveling is achieved without table screws?)&lt;/a&gt;, but have been asked to post this as a separate question to answer it with more detail conform SE policy.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One question with respect to automatic bed leveling (also known as ABL): If the bed is tilted and the auto leveling measured this and then the printer adjust the z axis over the position on the bed, will a x-y-point on the first layer be located exactly under the (in model) same x-y-point in a higher layer, or will it be shifted to? I mean, if the bed is 1 mm lower on one side over 10 cm then a top corner of a 10-cm-cube should be also 1 mm shifted, so that the cube still is real cubic and not sheared.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9575" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-09-14T07:19:07.693" LastActivityDate="2021-08-15T17:27:35.150" Title="Does auto leveling result in sheared prints?" Tags="|bed-leveling|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6905" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6904" CreationDate="2018-09-13T06:42:48.583" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Using automatic bed leveling assists you in getting the print to stick better to the build platform as a result of the print head following the non-uniform geometry or tilt of the build plate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In, e.g. Marlin Firmware, the bed level correction is fading out over a predefined distance, this is determined by the constant &lt;code&gt;#define ENABLE_LEVELING_FADE_HEIGHT&lt;/code&gt; in the printer firmware &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/blob/1.1.x/Marlin/Configuration.h&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Configuration.h&lt;/a&gt; file  and the height can be set with &lt;code&gt;M420 Z&amp;lt;height&amp;gt;&lt;/code&gt; (see &lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#M420:_Leveling_On.2FOff.2FFade_.28Marlin.29&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;M420 S1  ; Enable compensation using current grid/mesh&#xA;M420 Z10 ; Gradually reduce compensation until Z=10&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If Z equals zero, leveling compensation will be fully applied to all layers of the print object.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, a cube will not be perfectly cubic, that is why even with auto bed leveling you need to provide a bed as level as possible, it only should correct for very small deviations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the print is smaller than the fade out height, you would indeed get a sheared print, if larger, then the top of the print would be level with respect to the reference plane (machine true; this is the level of the X-Y plane, basically the level of the hot end carriage). Note that that still can be skew if the printer is improperly calibrated (e.g. when using 2 Z steppers or misalignment of the height on either side).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-08-15T17:27:35.150" LastActivityDate="2021-08-15T17:27:35.150" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6906" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6902" CreationDate="2018-09-13T11:47:34.110" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;A very helpful page for troubleshooting common errors is: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Print Quality Troubleshooting Guide&lt;/a&gt; - &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/#lines-on-the-side-of-print&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Lines on the Side of Print&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems like your problem is inconsistent extrusion or temperature variation. From the photo you posted I guess that you use a big diameter nozzle. Keep in mind that your extruder might not be well equipped to deliver such a large amount of plastic consistently. This most likely is a problem with the heating capacity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can try to lower the speed even more to give your extruder more time to heat the plastic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12934" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-09-13T12:01:46.287" LastActivityDate="2018-09-13T12:01:46.287" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6907" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4945" CreationDate="2018-09-13T12:24:44.243" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Let's look at it...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's something like this: a closed box with protrusions that have no inner surface. like this cobbled together thing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PDnW4.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PDnW4.png&quot; alt=&quot;Box with pseudobox&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's just for fun export it as a .stl. yes, a single .stl file. And now open it in MeshMixer:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QcYO4.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QcYO4.png&quot; alt=&quot;MeshMixer view of the same model&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looks not half bad, right? But a red box? What shall that mean? look at the blender model again: Oh right, the normals on those surfaces are backwards! &lt;code&gt;W&lt;/code&gt; &lt;code&gt;F&lt;/code&gt; in blender flips the normals, reexport the .stl, reload into MeshMixer!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7GQeP.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7GQeP.png&quot; alt=&quot;After flipping the normals in the top &amp;quot;cube&amp;quot;&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now we are talking! Let's look how we can fix this... &lt;code&gt;Edit &amp;gt; Make Solid&lt;/code&gt; with a high &lt;code&gt;Solid Accuracy&lt;/code&gt; with both a high &lt;code&gt;Solid Accuracy&lt;/code&gt; and &lt;code&gt;Mesh Density&lt;/code&gt; results in reasonable sharp corners and... DANG! One solid body, all neatly closed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gWh6P.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gWh6P.png&quot; alt=&quot;After solidifying&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;Now, test: Export (&lt;code&gt;ctrl+E&lt;/code&gt;) and import into blender.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ttjmx.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ttjmx.png&quot; alt=&quot;Solidified in blender&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yet, we got a problem: this thing that had been 11 faces and 16 vertices became almost 1.2 million vertices and 2.4 million faces. This surely can be condensed some, but we just achieved a well printable merge of the objects.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jzxam.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jzxam.png&quot; alt=&quot;New mesh of the corner geometry&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastActivityDate="2018-09-13T12:24:44.243" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6908" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6883" CreationDate="2018-09-13T16:53:48.840" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This problem appears when a face is inverted, so the slicer confuses and expect the other wall to close the object. So you need to reverse that face to show the face out and the back face inside the shape to be filled&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OklcS.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OklcS.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;I will edit this answer with more examples&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4454" LastActivityDate="2018-09-13T16:53:48.840" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6909" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3417" CreationDate="2018-09-13T20:28:45.150" Score="3" Body="&lt;h3&gt;Polyfuses on the RAMPS&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fire appears to be the immediate issue, in the poly fuses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.reddit.com/r/Reprap/comments/2gpih3/reversed_polarity_ramps_on_fire/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Reddit: reversed polarity, RAMPS on fire&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sooo I made the dumb mistake of reversing the polarity from my psu into the RAMPS 1.4. As warned the ramps did not like this and smoke began to rise from the board. I am pretty sure I saw smoke only coming from the two ptc fuses (big flat yellow ones).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Replacing poly fuses&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: Older RAMPS 1.4 have easily replaceable large poly fuses, whereas the RAMPS 1.5/1.6 use SMD poly fuses, see 0scar's answer to &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/5623/ramps-1-4-1-5-or-1-6&quot;&gt;RAMPS 1.4, 1.5 or 1.6?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Arduino&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.reddit.com/r/Reprap/comments/2gpih3/reversed_polarity_ramps_on_fire/ckln3ix/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this user&lt;/a&gt;, the MOSFETs &lt;em&gt;and&lt;/em&gt; the Arduino Mega's regulator can be fried as well:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;it most likely fried the mosfets next to the fuses and probably the voltage regulator on your arduino.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, the fried regulator would only affect the Arduino's operation if powered through the power socket, or VIN (which the RAMPS board uses to power the Arduino Mega). However, via the USB it should still work. See &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.reddit.com/r/Reprap/comments/2gpih3/reversed_polarity_ramps_on_fire/ckm2rlc/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this post&lt;/a&gt;, on the same thread:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The voltage regulator is only needed if you supply power to the arduino via the Vin pin or with a separate power adapter. The RAMPS board does supply the Vin pin with 12V.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, you would probably have to rely on powering the Arduino via the USB and not the RAMPS&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regarding the Arduino, on Arduino.SE there are a number of users who have fried their Arduino in this manner, and many of them suffer slightly different failures, although most are centered around the regulator. One case I remember was that of a capacitor burnout, see &lt;a href=&quot;https://arduino.stackexchange.com/questions/54006/is-my-arduino-dead&quot;&gt;Is my Arduino dead?&lt;/a&gt; - although the use case was different. There are many other cases on the Arduino.SE.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Protection Diode&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to &lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?13,600886,600893#msg-600893&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this post&lt;/a&gt; on &lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?13,600886,600893&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;RepRap - Reverse Polarity&lt;/a&gt;, there &lt;em&gt;should&lt;/em&gt; be a &lt;strong&gt;reverse polarity protection diode&lt;/strong&gt; (although it appears not to have work in the above example):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it was a ramps, those have a reverse protection diode across the input that normally needs replaced after such an incident&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Stepper drivers/motors&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The stepper motors themselves should survive, as should the stepper drivers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;However&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt;, each case can be different and it would depend upon the quality of the board (is it a cheap clone or branded?), and the quality/tolerance of the components used - these factors would determine where in the chain of modules the failure occurs. Obviously, the earlier the failure's location in the chain the better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;MKS Base v1.2&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As an aside, this user fried their regulator (the fuses were fine) on a MKS Base v1.2 (not RAMPS), by reversing the polarity, which caused the stepper drivers to fail. However, replacing the regulator fixed it, see &lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?13,600886,602910#msg-602910&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this post&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Replacing the regulator chip did fix the board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rather helpfully the self same user has posted an Instructables of the repair: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.instructables.com/id/MKS-Base-Reverse-Polarity-Repair/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;MKS Base reverse polarity repair&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;RAMPSXB&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is no protection diode on the RAMPXB. From &lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/wiki/RAMPSXB&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;RAMPSXB&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do NOT reverse polarity on the input pins, as there is NO PROTECTION DIODE. Reversing polarity will not only fry your steppers and FETs, but may even damage your Arduino and possibly even your computer. Triple check to make sure the polarity on your power input is 100% correct!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;See also&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://forum.arduino.cc/index.php?topic=265478.0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Arduino Forum: Checking the RAMPS 1.4&lt;/a&gt; for some handy troubleshooting tips for the Arduino and the Stepper.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This user on &lt;a href=&quot;http://forum.arduino.cc/index.php?topic=265478.msg1872694#msg1872694&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;post #5&lt;/a&gt; of &lt;a href=&quot;http://forum.arduino.cc/index.php?topic=265478.0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Arduino Forum: Checking the RAMPS 1.4&lt;/a&gt; did manage to fry their stepper drivers, but not due to reverse polarity, by from a loose wire:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I didnt connect the power backwards, but either I had a defective Mega2560 clone, or some stray bit of wire somehow shorted something out, and the Mega2560 literally went up in smoke (almost caught on fire !)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Every stepper driver was destroyed, but the power FET's and other components survived&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4762" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:29:41.667" LastActivityDate="2018-09-14T13:56:58.777" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6911" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-09-14T12:04:07.417" Score="2" ViewCount="46" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am trying to make a controller(Who doesn't want that?) for PC. Just before starting the build I wondered if it would be hard to 3D print to scale of my board. So I was stuck in a paradox... 3D print first or PCB board design first?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Cons: PCB design first&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Building to scale is difficult&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Parts may not line up&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Cons: 3D print first&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Eagle design needs precise measurements&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;PCB may not fit correctly&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which is better to do first?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12940" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:29:41.667" LastActivityDate="2018-09-14T12:04:07.417" Title="3d print first or board design?" Tags="|3d-design|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="5" ClosedDate="2018-09-21T20:11:06.593" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6912" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-09-14T12:25:02.543" Score="6" ViewCount="2357" Body="&lt;p&gt;If someone looking for accuracy, which is the better linear motion system:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Maker slide, &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Smooth rod - bearing, &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Linear guide way, &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;V slot, &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Open rail&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please let me know if there's a better one other than above list.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10670" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-09-23T18:28:25.117" LastActivityDate="2018-09-23T18:28:25.117" Title="Which is a more accurate linear motion system?" Tags="|diy-3d-printer|linear-motion|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ClosedDate="2018-09-25T12:21:43.127" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6913" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6912" CreationDate="2018-09-14T14:39:09.950" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I used a few different linear rail systems in my build:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;plain smooth rods for Z motion&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;smooth rods bonded to a T-haped steel base for a 1200mm Y axis (similar to those at &lt;a href=&quot;https://cdn.automationdirect.com/static/specs/suremotionlinear.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://cdn.automationdirect.com/static/specs/suremotionlinear.pdf&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;igus &quot;low profile linear slide&quot; for X (&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.igus.com/drylin/profile-rail-guide&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.igus.com/drylin/profile-rail-guide&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They all seem to work pretty well. The one problem I had was with the igus slides, which I found had a little too much play -- so each change of direction on X had a slight backlash, from the &quot;cars&quot; twisting a tiny bit within the rails. I improved that with careful tuning: shifting the rails a tiny bit farther apart, so they kept the cars under a little tension against the inner sides of the rail -- some call this &quot;preloading&quot;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think systems that use actual bearings should generally be more accurate than spring-loaded slides. But the igus rails are still pretty good, and they're quite light, compact, and reasonably priced. I still use them, though once in a while I think about swapping them out to do a serious comparison.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rails aren't the only factor in accuracy, though. I can't detect any play or warp in my Y rails, but that says nothing about accuracy and repeatability of motion &lt;em&gt;along&lt;/em&gt; them. That's controlled by the motor and the belt, leadscrew, or other things actually moving them. Leadscrews, in particular, vary quite a bit in accuracy, depending on the shape of their threads, the kind of &quot;nut&quot; riding on them, and other factors. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can even make your own leadscrew system from just a threaded rod and a nut -- but those threads are not the same, and they allow far more play than a real leadscrew does. Nice article on the &quot;backlash&quot; problem at &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.liutaiomottola.com/Tools/Backlash.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.liutaiomottola.com/Tools/Backlash.htm&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastActivityDate="2018-09-14T14:39:09.950" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6914" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6915" CreationDate="2018-09-14T17:06:07.100" Score="9" ViewCount="7001" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;The pictures explain my problem. I have already tried to reduce the retraction but that showed no effect. Thank you for your help.&lt;/em&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The effect is a total stop of the print (no material is extruded).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Creality CR 10&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cura 3.4.1&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I recently added this new feeder aluminium block because the 3D printed stock version was bad quality.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/05Kkq.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Filament not entering Bowden tube&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/05Kkq.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Filament not entering Bowden tube&quot; title=&quot;Filament not entering Bowden tube&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qzUD5.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Close up&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qzUD5.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Close up&quot; title=&quot;Close up&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user12769" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-10-12T16:12:11.040" LastActivityDate="2021-05-13T22:06:48.760" Title="Filament isn't going into the Bowden tube, instead it goes &quot;into the room&quot;" Tags="|filament|extruder|creality-cr-10|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6915" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6914" CreationDate="2018-09-14T17:20:42.120" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is typically caused by resistance in the tube or hotend but in your case it appears to be mostly caused by a very poorly designed extruder.  The filament needs to be constrained closer to the drive gear.  You may be able to drill out the PTC connector to allow the PTFE tube to reach closer to the gears or print a spacer to fit in between but you need to support the filament in that gap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can try raising the hotend temperature as a band-aid until you can fix the problem, do not exceed 240 C if you have a PTFE lined hotend. Long retractions can also pull molten filament into the cold zone where it solidifies and make extrusion harder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As an example, here is a picture of a Bondtech BMG extruder.  Note how the extruder constrains the filament path all the way from the drive gear to the hotend entrance.  While this example is extreme for normal PLA/PETG/ABS, it is required for flexible filament.  A 4mm gap (or closer) should be fine for PLA/PETG/ABS or other hard filaments.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Sj0N9.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Sj0N9.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="233" LastEditorUserId="233" LastEditDate="2018-09-14T17:26:32.213" LastActivityDate="2018-09-14T17:26:32.213" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6916" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6914" CreationDate="2018-09-14T17:57:46.823" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are two parts to this problem. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;First&lt;/strong&gt;, the extruder is meeting too much resistance in the print. There can be several causes, from the first layer being too low, a blocked nozzle, too low a print temperature, or printing too fast, so the viscosity of the filament just makes it too hard to pass through the nozzle. Usually, several of these will be in play together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Second&lt;/strong&gt;, the extruder design allows the filament to bend as it leaves the drive gears. Typically, this problem is seen most with flexible filament because that will obviously collapse more easily under compression for a given unsupported length.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The trigger is the first group, the second part determines the resiliance of your setup to this problem. Once the break point is reached, there is no recovery. You can retract the filament, but trying to resume the print will just set the extruder back to the same absolute position.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, check that you can extrude OK in free space, without any drop in temperature. Also check your extrusion steps calibration - if you're extruding 110% of what the print is expecting, the extrusion back pressure can build up to a point of failure. Check the first layer, check the calibration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4927" LastActivityDate="2018-09-14T17:57:46.823" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6918" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6914" CreationDate="2018-09-14T23:14:26.360" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your extruder is encountering resistance and the filament path is too open.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your teeth seem to be biting in too hard. Loosen up your tensioners a bit.  Teeth biting too hard deforms the filament. Does that rough looking stuff feed through the tube smoothly? Any rough bits can catch anything in the filament path?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is preferable for the motor to skip when there is a problem, rather than waste filament, so maybe turn down your motor vref too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How well does filament feed by hand, and with no teeth marks on it? Significantly better, or about the same? Does the bowden tube have and kinks or bends in it? Those effectively shrink the diameter of the tube and really put the squeeze on filament passing through.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does your hotend have proper thermal preparation? Lots of insulation on the block, and a good strong cooling fan? Too little insulation will cause too much power to be used, and raise the melt area. Too little cooling (especially with PLA) will also allow the melt area to rise (called heat creep). If pointing a big fan at the printer fixes the problem, it's probably hotend cooling related. If it makes it worse, it's hotend insulation related.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12950" LastActivityDate="2018-09-14T23:14:26.360" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6919" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2621" CreationDate="2018-09-15T10:52:12.543" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Something not being considered here is where the PTFE liner terminates relative to the tip.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the latest V6 J-head that I recently purchased on ebay, it only runs to the top of the M6 Stainless heat-break, about 25mm away from the tip. I use this on my Mendel Max, with both PLA, and ABS. No real problems, running at about 70mm/s, but I have had heat-creep jamming problems when the nozzle became blocked, which I put down to cheap grade filament.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the Wanhao i3 mini, that I recently dismantled, with a similar looking hot-end, the PTFE liner runs all the way to the brass tip. This particular printer only works with PLA. I am yet to put it through its paces, to discover the benefits/negatives of this difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12955" LastActivityDate="2018-09-15T10:52:12.543" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6921" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6722" CreationDate="2018-09-15T21:14:57.527" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to the people of Ultimaker, the best layer height for PLA is &lt;a href=&quot;https://community.ultimaker.com/topic/22969-layer-resolution-range/?tab=comments#comment-209869&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;50% of the diameter of the nozzle&lt;/a&gt;. They did extensive testing, although they have not, as far as I'm aware, released any research papers or numbers gathered from their testing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, if you have a 0.4mm nozzle, keep your layers at 0.2mm height for best bonding, 0.4mm for a 0.8mm nozzle, and so on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The max ratio possible is 75% of nozzle diameter, though, at this point, your print has the consistency of a spider web. I tried with a 0.4mm nozzle and 0.3mm layer height and nearly crushed the test print when taking it off the print bed. Anything above that and you end up with the dreaded spaghetti plate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Note: I own an Ultimaker 3 Extended, thus why I asked them when I was doing some tests.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12917" LastEditorUserId="12917" LastEditDate="2018-09-16T12:40:32.183" LastActivityDate="2018-09-16T12:40:32.183" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6922" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6930" CreationDate="2018-09-15T22:04:02.290" Score="5" ViewCount="12593" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's PLA filament clogged in my Bowden tube, is there a best practice for cleaning it out or do I need to replace the whole tube?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, the couplings are totally stuck, so I guess those would need replacement too or are there ways to get stuck couplings off?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Click &lt;a href=&quot;https://streamable.com/bi73e&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; for a video.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12542" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2022-01-25T22:39:18.127" LastActivityDate="2022-01-25T22:39:18.127" Title="Bowden tube clog" Tags="|pla|ptfe-tube|bowden|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6923" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6922" CreationDate="2018-09-15T23:14:02.630" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are able to force the filament from the interior of the bowden tube without causing damage to the tube, you will be able to determine the cause of the clog. My bowden tube clogged recently, but it was because I left the system idle with old filament inside. The filament broke from brittleness and the edge of the broken pieces managed to wedge against the tube. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was able to use a &quot;healthy&quot; piece of filament along with great force (pliers pushing close to the tubing end) and remove the damaged filament.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once removed, the new filament slid easily within.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your PTC fittings may not have to be replaced if the tubing is not damaged inside and if the existing spacing meets your requirements. A PTC fitting has a ring of teeth which gouge and/or grasp the outside of the tubing preventing removal. It is frequently necessary to push the tubing into the fitting, then compressing the release ring followed by pulling the tubing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The PTC fitting at the end where only the filament exits is probably a stock fitting. The fitting which has the bowden tube extending through it has been drilled and may be challenging to find. Your best source for such a fitting is the original manufacturer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's clear in the video that the threaded portion of the two fittings are different.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastActivityDate="2018-09-15T23:14:02.630" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6924" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-09-16T03:34:08.177" Score="1" ViewCount="237" Body="&lt;p&gt;I need to show a demo to people on a daily basis. But every demo is for a different 3D printed part. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I reuse the material? Is yes, what is the maximum number of times that the material can be reused?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12966" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-09-23T18:27:05.063" LastActivityDate="2018-09-23T19:35:07.077" Title="Can I reuse 3D printed parts?" Tags="|print-material|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ClosedDate="2018-09-25T12:21:19.477" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6926" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3417" CreationDate="2018-09-16T19:04:50.150" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Assuming the (most common and standard) RAMPS 1.4 board, the power input section looks like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/e9s0G.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/e9s0G.png&quot; alt=&quot;RAMPS 1.4 schematic - power input section&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are two 12V input sections: one for the heated bed (with an 11A fuse) and one for the rest (with a 5A fuse). If only one of the sections has reversed polarity (and the other one is connected correctly) the power supply (assuming a single supply is used) is shorted out directly through the board (without any fuses or any other protection). This will in principle not damage any components &lt;em&gt;on the board&lt;/em&gt;, but it might damage the power supply or melt the wires. In the following, I assume both sections have polarity reversed consistently (or one of the sections is not connected at all).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bed input section basically has no protection. If polarity to the bed is reversed, the bed MOSFET's body diode will conduct - basically shorting out the input through the fuse. The current that will flow will initially only be limited by the power supply's ability to supply current. Eventually the fuse will trip, but these poly fuses are quite slow and in the meantime it is possible the bed MOSFET will be damaged (which might cause it to permanently conduct, i.e. the bed might always be on, or the MOSFET might become a short circuit and short out the power supply even if the polarity is corrected).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The 5A section has a bit more in terms of protection. After the fuse there is a diode (D2) that shorts out the power supply if polarity is reversed. This is similar to how the diode in the bed MOSFET shorts out, but in this case the diode is dedicated for just this function. The diode has a relatively low forward voltage, lower than that of the MOSFETs for the heaters, so in principle these components will be protected. However, the diode is not really rated for the kind of current that would flow in this scenario, so components such as the heater/fan MOSFETs and stepper drivers might be exposed to a reverse voltage (albeit around -2V at most). They would probably survive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As in the heated bed scenario, the diode D2 would probably be damaged - it would likely end up short circuited and thus needs to be replaced (or at least removed, but this is not advisable since it's required for polarity protection) before the board will function again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Arduino Mega 12V input is protected through a blocking diode (D1) which will fully protect it. This diode will not be damaged, because it won't conduct any current in a short-circuit scenario.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It might seem kind of strange a diode is used to deliberately short out the input in case of reverse polarity, and you might ask why the design doesn't simply use a diode to block the reverse flow of current (like is done for the Arduino). The reason for this is that all diodes have an associated voltage drop, which would cause a lot of power loss (especially for the heated bed), requiring a large diode with heat sink. The way the diodes are placed (i.e., shorting out the power rails in the event of reverse polarity) avoids this loss and still somewhat protects the electronics down the stream (even if the fuses/diodes are blown). Note that this is still a less than ideal solution, if you're trying to design your own reverse polarity protection solution then I would recommend to go with a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ti.com/lit/an/slva139/slva139.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;MOSFET-based solution&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastActivityDate="2018-09-16T19:04:50.150" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6927" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6928" CreationDate="2018-09-16T20:13:21.860" Score="1" ViewCount="78" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have DEM with 1&amp;nbsp;m resolution, how can I create 3D printing file (e.g. STL, OBJ and IGES etc.) from DEM?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12918" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-09-23T18:23:17.243" LastActivityDate="2018-09-23T18:23:17.243" Title="How to create 3D printing file (e.g. STL, OBJ and IGES etc.) from DEM?" Tags="|software|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2018-09-25T12:21:34.497" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6928" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6927" CreationDate="2018-09-16T21:38:58.997" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This question has been answered on a sister site, GIS Stack Exchange. It's a rather comprehensive answer posted, which means it's impractical to summarize here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://gis.stackexchange.com/questions/228827/generating-stl-3d-file-from-raster-aster-gdem-data&quot;&gt;GIS answer&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The answer does indicate that a plug-in for QGIS software is needed in order to accomplish this objective. If you do not use/have the QGIS software, my answer is invalid.  All three answers to the question linked above appear to point to the same program/plugin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastActivityDate="2018-09-16T21:38:58.997" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6930" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6922" CreationDate="2018-09-17T17:34:42.707" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;As a short-term fix,  grab a twist drill bit that is on the order of  1.5 mm diameter (assuming a 1.75 mm tube).  Using a hand drill, slowly and gently drill out the clogged filament.  Obviously you want to try to avoid scarring the teflon lining, so better to use the thinnest drill that will work.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With a little training and a little luck, you'll get the clog cleared. I would recommend removing the nozzle first so that the chips don't fall into the nozzle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2191" LastActivityDate="2018-09-17T17:34:42.707" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6931" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6722" CreationDate="2018-09-17T18:35:19.043" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The question is not easy to answer as it would be difficult to give exact print guidelines. &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/6733/5740&quot;&gt;This answer from user @typo&lt;/a&gt; already shows results of the print height versus the specimen strength (IMHO his answer should be the accepted answer), as taken from &lt;a href=&quot;http://my3dmatter.com/influence-infill-layer-height-pattern/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this excellent reference at 3DMatter&lt;/a&gt; which basically describes the results of a series of experiments. This answer builds upon his answer. In reference to your question, this reference did not optimize the print settings (all specimens are made with the same print settings), so your question is valid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is assumed that you imply in your question that all print parameters that effect the inter-layer bond strength needs to be taken into account for the optimization. Many parameters are in play to bond the filament onto the previous layer, amongst these parameters are e.g.:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Print speed&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Filament temperature&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Print height&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Print cooling&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All these parameters influence the deposition temperature which in its turn determines the bonding to the previous layer. Not only printer parameters play a role here, but also the properties of the material itself. Between the various brands, and even within a single brand, material variations (e.g. color doping, or different process batches) influence these parameters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The question states&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;It seems obvious that too thick a layer will give less compression and maybe less heat transfer into the layer below&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Well, this is not so obvious and assumes that compression is the main driver for bonding a layer. However, the larger the layer height, the more filament can be deposited at once with a higher heat capacity (stays hot longer), so potentially this could have a positive influence on the bond (higher temperature, better adhesion). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The print fan cooling parameter could play a very important role here (or even the filament print temperature). In fact, the results of this are already shown by the 3DMatter experiment referenced above. If you keep all print parameters the same except for layer height, the bond strength increases. This implies that in order to get a better bond for low print heights, you should decrease the amount of print-fan cooling flow, or increase the filament print temperature. How much this is should be done in a similar experiment where you lower the cooling air and increase filament print temperature for more specimens (separately) and test again. This is referred to as a &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Design_of_experiments&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;design of experiments&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Theoretically, you can make the bond at any layer height just as good provided you optimize the correct parameters. This implies that there is no relation between the print height and the bond strength, it is just a matter of proper setup.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, I would not say that poor bonding strength is the cause of failure in Z direction, as FDM deposits layers in between each layer you will have a lot of potential crack initiation locations, this is usually the starting point of the failure. I have seen prints start the failure between the layers, but not continue to crack along the layers, but traversing through the layers meaning that the bonding strength is not that bad after all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WCQnm.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WCQnm.png&quot; alt=&quot;Stress concentrations by FDM process&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-10-07T13:38:28.350" LastActivityDate="2018-10-07T13:38:28.350" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6932" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6924" CreationDate="2018-09-17T18:53:26.537" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I ground up some prints and extruded them into new filament. The quality of recycled filament is not very high so I would not recommend it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As pointed out earlier, the shredded bulk material you would create from your old prints would cost more in time and energy to produce than buying new raw material (pellets, not filament), and you still need to extrude it into filament to be able to use it in a printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12950" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-09-23T19:35:07.077" LastActivityDate="2018-09-23T19:35:07.077" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6933" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6878" CreationDate="2018-09-17T18:57:05.030" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The fans are allowing the strings to harden instead of break. Maybe you should use more retraction or wipe before crossing perimeters to reduce material ooze during moves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12950" LastActivityDate="2018-09-17T18:57:05.030" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6934" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6845" CreationDate="2018-09-17T19:07:32.820" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you run M503 you should be able to see your max speeds. They, along with your homing speeds, are probably far too high and causing skipped steps (no movement). You can lower them down temporarily with M203. &lt;a href=&quot;http://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M203.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M203.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12950" LastActivityDate="2018-09-17T19:07:32.820" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6935" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-09-17T19:13:14.627" Score="2" ViewCount="168" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been using Cura on my computer for a while now, (&lt;em&gt;at least a month&lt;/em&gt;) but all of a sudden the entire interface has become noticeably sluggish. Whenever I scroll through the profile parameters list or the settings visibility dialog, the list lags and doesn't fully appear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm at a loss to explain why this is happening.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5Op8h.gif&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5Op8h.gif&quot; alt=&quot;Example&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JBNyS.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JBNyS.png&quot; alt=&quot;tskmgr&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12377" LastEditorUserId="12377" LastEditDate="2018-09-22T18:41:56.323" LastActivityDate="2018-09-22T18:41:56.323" Title="Cura acting REALLY sluggish all of a sudden" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6936" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6878" CreationDate="2018-09-17T20:22:31.563" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Prior to a move the print cooling fan causes the filament to cool on the outside while the nozzle is still hot, when it then moves it causes a strings to form that will be cooled instantly. This means that the cooling you have is too much and should be reduced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This printer has a single fan to cool the cold-end and the print through a slot with the same fan. As this fan can be scheduled, it would be recommended to create a dual fan on the carriage where you have a dedicated fan cooling the cold end at a fixed voltage, while the print is cooled by a separate fan that can be scheduled through slicer settings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2018-09-17T20:22:31.563" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6937" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6941" CreationDate="2018-09-18T00:34:45.077" Score="5" ViewCount="5491" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been looking into the viability of manufacturing a replacement part for a kitchen blender that has a broken part. I found &lt;a href=&quot;https://all3dp.com/1/food-safe-3d-printing-abs-pla-food-safe-filament/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;this page that talks about what makes a print food safe&lt;/a&gt;. One of the items mentioned was:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;... a brass extruder may contain lead, and lead contamination can cause some nasty health problems. ...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I own an Ender 3, and I haven't replaced the nozzle yet. How can I tell if my printer is capable of creating food safe prints in its current state?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12377" LastActivityDate="2018-12-12T09:52:57.997" Title="Ender 3 is capable of food safe printing?" Tags="|safety|food|creality-ender-3|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6938" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6940" CreationDate="2018-09-18T02:07:43.240" Score="4" ViewCount="801" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am a newbie to 3D printing and ran into a weird infill line on my second 3D printing object on a new Qidi X-Pro machine (which works great). I've included a screenshot of the infill line, which is deliberately printed the full height of the object. I'm thinking this line has been deliberately inserted by the Qidi slicer for some reason, but I have no idea why. Do all slicers generate these kinds of lines? If so, why?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/s1SAU.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/s1SAU.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Print object showing extra infill line&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12981" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-09-18T16:39:07.027" LastActivityDate="2020-06-05T15:01:46.110" Title="What is this weird support line doing in this print?" Tags="|infill|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6939" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6937" CreationDate="2018-09-18T03:16:31.837" Score="-3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes you have to change brass nozzle it contains lead.&#xA;If you are planning to print in PLA don't do that because  PLA filament we are using in 3D printer are not food safe it contains some nasty colour dyes which are not food safe. Consider some special food safe filaments available in market. I think extruder gears are also made up of brass. Consider also changing them.&#xA;Steel extuder gears are available in market like below&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IHv9p.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IHv9p.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Exduder gear&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12398" LastEditorUserId="12398" LastEditDate="2018-09-18T05:08:56.657" LastActivityDate="2018-09-18T05:08:56.657" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6940" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6938" CreationDate="2018-09-18T04:55:57.737" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I do not know the Qidi slicer, but if you look closely, you will see this line is thinner than the normal support infill lines. You could try to visualize the G-code in a viewer, usually this can be done in the slicer itself, but &lt;a href=&quot;http://gcode.ws/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;online viewers&lt;/a&gt; are available. The viewer will not only show the printed lines, but also show moves by the print head (usually in a different color). You can check whether this extra line is actually printed or a move. If it is a move, this extra line is caused by your hotend which is leaking when it moves. You need to properly tune the hotend with respect to the retraction settings and temperature. There are numerous retraction test print objects to find on the internet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on your slicer settings, some slicers are able to define where each layer starts printing (e.g. random, or start at sharp corner). The fact you see a support structure &quot;printed the full height of the object&quot; tells you that each layer starts at the same position. It is not uncommon in uniform simple parts where each layer starts at the same position (X/Y) as this is instructed by the slicer setting. In Ultimaker Cura such an option is called &lt;code&gt;Z Seam Alignment&lt;/code&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bottom line, all slicers will do this when your printer is improperly tuned (incorrect settings for e.g. print temperature, retraction, coasting, travel speed). It is up to you to find the correct settings, test print objects help you with that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-09-18T19:46:21.100" LastActivityDate="2018-09-18T19:46:21.100" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6941" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6937" CreationDate="2018-09-18T08:02:27.183" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Food packaging needs to comply with regulations. One certification agency informing about these (and their service to certify for them) is &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.tuv-sud.com/home-com/resource-centre/publications/e-ssentials-newsletter/food-health-e-ssentials/e-ssentials-3-2015/regulations-for-food-packaging-products-and-materials&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;TÜV Süd&lt;/a&gt;, another is &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.saiglobal.com/Assurance/resource-library/Food-Safety/packaging_Brochure.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;SAI global&lt;/a&gt;. A summary of the GFSI can be found &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.manufacturing.net/article/2014/07/compliance-food-grade-product-manufacturing&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;. Inform yourself about the standards you wish to apply! The stack can not give legally binding answers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;&lt;strong&gt;No&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Ender 3 is not approved to produce food products (and not usable for them out of the box) for lack of certification. In the design it comes from the box, you need to replace a lot of parts for food rated ones:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The whole print head/bed need to be swapped out for food rated parts due to the exact composition being not known. They might contain banned materials. As a result:&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You'll need an all-metal hot end that can be taken apart for cleaning up to the standards if needed.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You'll need a food rated PTFE tube.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You'll need a stainless steel nozzle that complies with food grade manufacturing demands.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The extruder gear should be stainless steel as well.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You'll need to add some part to prevent filament shreds/flakes from the extruder to enter the print area as they might act as contaminants or carry germs.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Similar measures have to be taken for the wheels on the hot end carriage, as it might shred.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;As you include a volume of air into the print, you are likely to be demanded to print under a protective atmosphere to make sure no germs are inside the print.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;We do not know the composition of the build platform, so you'd need to replace the back surface with something that is food rated.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You'll need to post-process your prints as smooth as possible, especially because of the small edges at the layer boundaries, which can and will act as spots where germs can grow.&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;This &lt;em&gt;can&lt;/em&gt; be achieved with a material that is smoothable in some way.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Alternatively, a sealing lacquer/coating that is food safe might help here.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Remember, safety first:&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Printed plastics that are rated for food are not necessarily food safe because of the quality or blend of the material. PLA and ABS can be made food safe, but that is usually &lt;em&gt;pure&lt;/em&gt; material. We usually don't know what kinds of fillers or coloring is in our filament. The heating process might destroy the colors or fillers, which in turn might make it unsafe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Indirect manufacturing&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are stone set you want/need, you can use indirect manufacturing: you don't print the actual object, you print a mold that makes the actual object. Clay and other ceramics can be made food safe very easily and they can be shaped with plastic molds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Boxing&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is also another way to facilitate food safety in a 3D printed container, and that is checking where the food will actually make contact. For a lunch box, that is the inside. We could line this inside with a food safe surface, for example placing a steel cup in our plastic cup-holder. Accessories like a cup holder or a decorative container for the actual food container do not need to adhere to the food packaging regulations themselves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Exposure time&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know this is all looking at industrial food rated production. The &lt;a href=&quot;https://all3dp.com/1/food-safe-3d-printing-abs-pla-food-safe-filament/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Primer&lt;/a&gt; given in the question does include a point about time the product gets into contact with the food - if there is just a short exposure, you might &lt;em&gt;get away&lt;/em&gt; with it, but it doesn't make it certified food safe. Another good read in this regard is &lt;a href=&quot;https://pinshape.com/blog/3d-printing-food-safe/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; short discussion about the Pros and Cons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2018-12-12T09:52:57.997" LastActivityDate="2018-12-12T09:52:57.997" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6942" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6937" CreationDate="2018-09-18T11:17:15.703" Score="-4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Parts printed in pla are food safe, as pla is usually made from corn starch. However, most 3d printed parts would not be food safe for they have many crevices where bacteria can grow. Also, if you printed with materials other than pla with that nozzle, traces of the material (which  would make it into the print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12986" LastActivityDate="2018-09-18T11:17:15.703" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6943" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3510" CreationDate="2018-09-18T12:35:56.317" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You will not get perfectly clear prints with FDM because of the mechanics of FDM printing there will always be tiny gaps. But, you can get pretty close as demonstrated by a &lt;a href=&quot;https://learn.colorfabb.com/lets-make-something-clear/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;ColorFabb tutorial&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A clear filament and printing an object at an elevated temperature (more than normal) and enough material to close the gaps (e.g. 110%) should be able to produce transparent prints, for example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Kmn2Q.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Kmn2Q.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Transparent printed parts&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2018-09-18T12:35:56.317" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6944" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="722" CreationDate="2018-09-18T15:10:33.490" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;For me, none of the classic solutions to PETG zits worked; these include extra retraction, slower/faster retraction, lower extrusion width, lower extrusion multiplier, avoid perimeters etc. It was especially disappointing to see lower extrusion multiplier making no difference whatsoever in reducing the zits, but only resulting in a mechanically weaker and even spongy result. What made all the difference is to &lt;strong&gt;disable z lifting during retraction&lt;/strong&gt; which my slicer profile has enabled by default. This setting alone eliminated nearly all zits and most stringing (i.e spiderwebs). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, the amount of zits and stringing will heavily depend on the particular filament you're using and the particular model you're printing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Additional note:&lt;/em&gt; I was getting extra zits/overextrusion on a particular model I had that was exceptionally thin and tall when attempting to print with PETG. Lower extrusion multiplier made no improvement but weakened the part and resulted in spongy structure. I was successful in printing this part &lt;strong&gt;along with another part that was of similar height&lt;/strong&gt;. I'm suspecting that printing the part alone but &lt;strong&gt;much more slowly&lt;/strong&gt; to help with cooling would also succeed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12869" LastEditorUserId="12869" LastEditDate="2018-09-27T07:44:43.920" LastActivityDate="2018-09-27T07:44:43.920" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6945" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6946" CreationDate="2018-09-18T19:44:50.687" Score="4" ViewCount="1133" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am a complete newbie at 3D printing (although learning fast). I switched from the default Qidi slicer to the Cura slicer on a Qidi X-Pro machine (which is wonderful). Using: plate 50 &amp;deg;C, 0.4 mm nozzle 200 &amp;deg;C, 1.75 mm PLA, print speed 20 mm/s outer wall, 40 mm/s inner wall, travel speed 100 mm/s (the cura default, I think).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On two different prints, the same far corner (front left) had initial infill problems. Does anyone know why, or how I can solve it? My working theory is that the nozzle shoots across the whole print at high speed to start again at that corner and sometimes the infill filament doesn't bite enough to stick. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Eventually one of the infill layers gets a bite and the rest of the print is fine. But it's disturbing that it occurs on different prints. (I carefully level the plate before every print, so I don't think that's the issue.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1A1Wx.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1A1Wx.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Front left infill corner won&amp;#39;t bite&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/190ve.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/190ve.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Front left infill corner didn&amp;#39;t bite&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;UPDATE&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In another &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6990/how-to-remove-unwanted-filament-trails-from-sharp-corners&quot;&gt;question here&lt;/a&gt;, turning the Cura combing setting off solved an issue. It probably solved the issue described here, too, or at least contributed to solving the problem described here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My theory is that with combing on (as it was for that question), the oozing pulls filament out of the nozzle during the travel, so there's not enough filament at the destination corner to bite and bond to the corner wall. Turning the combing setting off seems to have solved the missing infills in the corner. It also greatly improved the quality of the infill walls, too, which relates to the problem described in this question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;UPDATE: Here's &lt;a href=&quot;https://community.ultimaker.com/topic/4850-hum-whats-combing/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;a paragraph from a forum posting here&lt;/a&gt; that explains how oozing caused by combing can result in &quot;underextrusion effects.&quot; That's what I think is happening in this post - the nozzle gets to the corner, but it has no filament to bite and bond with the wall. Credit to @0scar for giving me the forum link. Quote from the link:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Even on interior layers, combing as implemented in Cura is a bad idea,&#xA;  as it doesn't perform retraction, and that can result in the head&#xA;  oozing as it moves, especially as each time the head crosses a line of&#xA;  infill it can tend to pull our some plastic. You can also get some&#xA;  long moves (e.g., all the way around the curve of a 'C' shaped object&#xA;  when moving from one side of the opening to the other). This can&#xA;  result in the head being empty when it starts printing the perimeter&#xA;  again, with resultant under-extrusion effects.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12981" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-09-28T18:37:00.067" LastActivityDate="2018-09-28T18:37:00.067" Title="Infill failure at the far corner of two different prints" Tags="|infill|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6946" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6945" CreationDate="2018-09-18T19:58:43.417" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Now that you are using Ultimaker Cura, the default (probably hidden) parameter &lt;code&gt;Z Seam Alignment&lt;/code&gt; is set at &lt;code&gt;Sharpest Corner&lt;/code&gt;, so it will always start in a sharp corner. The default retraction settings are pretty high in Ultimaker Cura (I think about 6.5 mm as default &lt;code&gt;Retraction Distance&lt;/code&gt;). What happens here is that the filament is not available for printing in time (this is dependent on the extruder type), so the distance should be less than the current value.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is highly recommended to print a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/search?q=retraction&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;retraction test&lt;/a&gt; to find what is best for your setup. For me the 6.5 mm works very well on my Ultimaker 3 Extended and my large custom CoreXY printer as they both use a Bowden extruder setup using 2.85 mm filament, this can be different for your printer. Choosing a different &lt;code&gt;Z Seam Alignment&lt;/code&gt; option, e.g. &lt;code&gt;random&lt;/code&gt; prevents the use of the same location at every height, but could result in a less aesthetic print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Furthermore, you could try to visualize the G-code in a viewer, this can be done in the Ultimaker Cura slicer itself, but &lt;a href=&quot;http://gcode.ws/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;online viewers&lt;/a&gt; are available. After slicing your product, change the combo drop down box from &lt;code&gt;Solid view&lt;/code&gt; to &lt;code&gt;Layer view&lt;/code&gt; to show the sliced object. Nowadays there are 2 sliders to interface with the model; the vertical sets the layer, the horizontal the progress of the layer. It is advised to play with this to understand how your print is actually printed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sub&gt;&#xA;About your settings, print speeds are not high (could be increased), travel speed is fine (is only for non-printing moves). The brim is looking good and the level of your bed is also good.&#xA;&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-09-19T06:21:17.927" LastActivityDate="2018-09-19T06:21:17.927" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6947" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6953" CreationDate="2018-09-18T20:13:46.643" Score="2" ViewCount="331" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a problem with my Anet A8. It is a little strange because it does not always happen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I turn on my printer, it freezes on boot in the second splash screen. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I turn off and turn on several times, the printer works OK.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The printer firmware is: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;SKYNET 3D - V2.1 - BASED ON MARLIN RC7-BUGFIX - FOR ANET 3D PRINTERS&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It was modified by me but I promise that I did not touch the boot section.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could the Anet A8 motherboard be dying ? (before this issue it worked perfectly)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update 1&lt;/strong&gt;: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I am changing some wires (power supply and hot bed). I think it has improved...&#xA;In my opinion, I think that is better change all wires...&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update 2&lt;/strong&gt;: Some wires were black :-( (I changed them and the printer run well)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6508" LastEditorUserId="6508" LastEditDate="2018-10-02T09:52:42.937" LastActivityDate="2018-10-02T09:52:42.937" Title="Anet A8 - SkyNet3D freezes randomly at boot" Tags="|marlin|anet-a8|skynet3d|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6948" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5283" CreationDate="2018-09-18T21:26:14.383" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;That it triggers when the nozzle is about 1 mm from the build plate is how it is supposed to work. The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.geeetech.com/wiki/index.php/3DTouch_Auto_Leveling_Sensor&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;installation manual&lt;/a&gt; describes how to setup the sensor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The mount needs to be adjustable so that the distance between the bottom of the sensor (not the pin) needs to be 8.3mm above the tip of the nozzle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When taking the above distance into account, the probe should be hitting the build plate first when it is extended. When the probe triggers, it triggers at a certain distance from the nozzle. It is this distance that you need to add as an offset so that the printer knows where the actual Z=0 is. To determine the offset, you home the printer, make sure the Z-offset is zero (with command &lt;code&gt;M851 Z0&lt;/code&gt;), then lower the head until a piece of paper gives a little drag when pulled under the nozzle. From the display you can read the offset, e.g. -1.4. With command &lt;code&gt;M851 Z-1.4&lt;/code&gt; you set the offset between level and trigger point. Use &lt;code&gt;M500&lt;/code&gt; to store the new settings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2022-04-17T15:44:38.123" LastActivityDate="2022-04-17T15:44:38.123" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6949" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-09-19T05:39:05.147" Score="4" ViewCount="1409" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm building a 3d printer of size 500 x 500 x 500 build area. For the Z axis, I'm planning to use this &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.3dprintronics.com/Linear-Actuator-Ball-Screw-1204-p108536003&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Linear actuator&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The maximum weight Z axis might encounter is 15 Kg due to it being a clay printer. A single linear actuator can, according to the specs, lift 10 Kg. So I'm planning to use two of this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is a ball screw of pitch 4mm or 5mm, will it be able to Maintain it's position when the motor is de-energized under a load of 15 kg shared by two systems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What effect the diameter of rod has on it??&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any way to find that??&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10670" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2018-09-19T07:49:40.250" LastActivityDate="2018-09-21T19:19:48.463" Title="Ball screw: Maintaining Z axis position when motor is OFF" Tags="|diy-3d-printer|printer-building|z-axis|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6950" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-09-19T06:13:02.710" Score="1" ViewCount="128" Body="&lt;p&gt;I finished a 3D object for 4 wheels, but something seems wrong with the final scene to me:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The nearer wheels (#1 and #2) appear smaller than the far one (#3 and #4), and the distance between wheel #3 an #4 seems longer than between (1) and (2), like you can see in this picture:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8YdzP.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8YdzP.png&quot; alt=&quot;4 wheels&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to achieve the scene like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RkHkU.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RkHkU.png&quot; alt=&quot;Example of a wanted render&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How to do that in FreeCAD?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user12995" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2018-09-19T07:13:34.710" LastActivityDate="2018-09-19T07:16:27.357" Title="FreeCAD: Scene doesn't look 3D" Tags="|freecad|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2018-09-19T13:28:22.590" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6951" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6950" CreationDate="2018-09-19T06:51:16.850" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;CAD programs uses parallel view not perspective view. &#xA;So the length of 2 objects with the same length are displayed as 2 objects with the same length on the screen. &#xA;This is better for constructing stuff. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9575" LastActivityDate="2018-09-19T06:51:16.850" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6952" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6950" CreationDate="2018-09-19T07:07:33.200" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;FreeCAD, like many other 3D programs (including blender) does use Isometric/Orthographic display as the default displaying option as it allows to see on one view if some lengths or angles are &quot;equal&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In many cases, a perspective view can be toggled on to allow visualization in a room, especially for architectural one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the case of FreeCAD with all its options, this option gets swamped out of the user's field of view sometimes, and the documentation is not that easy to navigate without a proper keyword, making the right thing slightly hidden in the documentation. But once you know it, it should be obvious: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.freecadweb.org/wiki/Std_PerspectiveCamera&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;code&gt;View &amp;gt; Perspective View&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/a&gt; toggles to perspective view.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.freecadweb.org/wiki/Std_OrthographicCamera&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;code&gt;View &amp;gt; Orthographic View&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/a&gt; toggles back to isometric. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2018-09-19T07:16:27.357" LastActivityDate="2018-09-19T07:16:27.357" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6953" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6947" CreationDate="2018-09-19T07:47:54.447" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Anet A8 is a low end printer which works better after installing a better (read safer) than stock firmware (stock firmware does not have thermal runaway protection which is considered to be a hazard). It is good that you flashed another firmware that does have thermal runaway protection. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The electronics of the Anet A8 are also questionable, the stock connectors are not rated for their task and wires could have been of better quality and thickness. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now that your older SkyNet3D firmware does not boot properly anymore, it would be time to check all the leads, possibly use new wires of proper gauge and flash a new version of a more recent firmware. SkyNet3D has been forked from &lt;a href=&quot;http://marlinfw.org/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Marlin Firmware&lt;/a&gt; and is no longer maintained as all functionality has been &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/tree/1.1.x/Marlin/example_configurations/Anet&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;implemented for Anet printers&lt;/a&gt; in the &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Marlin sources&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your printer still is giving you problems then when booting, a new set of electronics (e.g. board and steppers) would help out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2018-09-19T07:47:54.447" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6954" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6949" CreationDate="2018-09-19T08:06:01.357" Score="7" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;My question is a ball screw of pitch 4mm or 5mm, will it be able to Maintain it's position when motor is deenergized under a load of 15 kg shared by two systems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The detent torque of a &lt;a href=&quot;https://motion.schneider-electric.com/downloads/quickreference/NEMA23.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;typical NEMA 23 stepper&lt;/a&gt; varies between around 3 and 7 N·cm. This is the torque produced when the windings are not energized.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using this &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.daycounter.com/Calculators/Lead-Screw-Force-Torque-Calculator.phtml&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;leadscrew torque calculator&lt;/a&gt;, you can find that the torque required for a 12 mm diameter, 4 mm pitch leadscrew to hold up a 75 N load, is around 5 N·cm - assuming there is no friction. If there is friction, then the required torque will be lower.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, the torque required is almost equal to or possibly even higher than the detent torque. Therefore, you should not count on a de-energized motor holding up the build platform. In practice, you might see that friction is enough to hold up the build platform, but that any disturbance (such as somebody bumping into the printer) is enough to get the leadscrews to start spinning and have the platform drop like a rock.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;What effect the diameter of rod has on it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Increasing the pitch also increases the torque required (so, go with a lower pitch leadscrew). The diameter does not affect the torque directly, but having a larger diameter increases the friction and so is beneficial.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastActivityDate="2018-09-19T08:06:01.357" CommentCount="14" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6955" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6949" CreationDate="2018-09-19T13:12:51.193" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Let's pull out physics...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We have a load of 15 kg, which is a weight force of 147.15 N, PLUS the bed. Let's take into account about two kilograms of bed and cables that need to be carried too, so 166.77 N. That is in the margin of error of 150 N, which simplifies calculations a lot, so let's just assume that. $$F_{g_\text{total}}=166\text N$$&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's assume we use 2 lead screws, one left, one right, and both go exactly vertical. Then we get, that the load is half, so $$F_{g_\text{per lead}}=83\text N$$&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, let's look at the specs of the lead screw: Pitch is 4 mm, Diameter is 12 mm. For the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.daycounter.com/Calculators/Lead-Screw-Force-Torque-Calculator.phtml&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;calculator&lt;/a&gt; we need Pitch Diameter (=Diameter) and the Thread Density (=Threads/cm), so I pull up the pitch &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.newmantools.com/tech/pitchconversions.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;conversion table&lt;/a&gt; and look under 4 mm Pitch. Also, we check the table and grab an intermediate &quot;steel on steel&quot; friction coefficient of 0.2 for dry, or 0.15 for oiled.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The results I get with those numbers are $\tau_\text{dry}=-0.0478\text{ Nm}$ and $\tau_\text{oiled}-0.0222\text{ Nm}$ respectively. That's the torque that needs to be applied to our motors to move it down. Wait, that number is negative?! Yes, it is, and that is actually not a bad sign:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's assume a higher high pitched thread. Like, REALLY high: 1 rotation per inch. One thread. It is pretty much &quot;straight&quot;. The calculator drops us a result of $\tau_\text{dry,super-steep}=0.273\text{ Nm}$ for 0.2 friction coefficient that the motor would need to keep working against to not have it moving.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, when do we stay, when to we move? Well, if $\tau_\text{calculated}&amp;gt;\tau_\text{detent}$, it moves down on its own. if $\tau_\text{calculated}&amp;lt;\tau_\text{detent}$ it stays put for friction. The $\tau_\text{detent}= 0.027\text{ Nm}$ for a &lt;a href=&quot;https://motion.schneider-electric.com/downloads/quickreference/NEMA23.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;single length NEMA 23&lt;/a&gt;. Our negative Torque just means we need to apply some extra torque to overcome friction before we get the bed going.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That means, with the 15kg load (+2kg bed), it is to be expected that the bed stays up. If you would use a more slick combination of materials, you might start to slide. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Always remember, there is the caveat of overcoming the detention strength with a short impact, or applying force directly to the rods when bumping into them. If the machisnism starts to spin, the friction from the nut on the bar and from the motor is all that can provide a breaking to the machine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2018-09-20T16:40:06.893" LastActivityDate="2018-09-20T16:40:06.893" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6956" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2018-09-19T19:43:11.430" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Skynet3D is an obsolete &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fork_(software_development)&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;fork&lt;/a&gt; of &lt;a href=&quot;http://marlinfw.org/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Marlin Firmware&lt;/a&gt; that was created because the displays of the Anet printers have a different layout in terms of pin assignment (also uses analog buttons). When the code stabilized, the fork of Marlin merged into the main code base. Configuration files for the Anet A8 and A6 have been added, see &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/tree/1.1.x/Marlin/example_configurations/Anet/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-10-02T06:17:19.547" LastActivityDate="2018-10-02T06:17:19.547" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6957" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2018-09-19T19:43:11.430" Score="0" Body="Use this tag for questions about a specific custom firmware for the low-cost series of Anet printers to support the special displays they use." OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-10-03T17:44:02.753" LastActivityDate="2018-10-03T17:44:02.753" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6958" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-09-20T05:25:50.530" Score="1" ViewCount="53" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to make a 3d scanner for accurately modeling very small metal parts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I figured I might be able to take advantage of the fact that metal conducts electricity, and avoid using light. This might be cheaper, easier to make, and wouldn't get thrown off by shiny surfaces. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically, I am imagining an object on a rotating stage, and a movable &quot;feeler&quot; probe. The probe is moved towards the object, and when the probe touches the metal object, a circuit is closed. The distance and angle of the probe and object are then recorded, and used to model a cross section of the object. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Is this technique already being used? If so, where? Is there a name for this technique? What resources should I look at for researching this? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13004" LastActivityDate="2018-09-27T07:03:27.233" Title="Resources for making 3d scans of electrically conductive materials?" Tags="|3d-models|scanning|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6959" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6970" CreationDate="2018-09-20T08:26:11.787" Score="1" ViewCount="8561" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm using a &lt;strong&gt;3DTouch sensor&lt;/strong&gt; (from Geeetech) on a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/make:540590&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;self-build CoreXY printer&lt;/a&gt; (&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2254103&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;HyperCube Evolution&lt;/a&gt;). The sensor worked perfectly until not being used for a month.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;strong&gt;symptoms&lt;/strong&gt; are that it &lt;strong&gt;fails to deploy the pin on the second probe deployment&lt;/strong&gt; so basically it fails after the first probe is triggered by the raised platform.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On homing Z (not only for &lt;code&gt;G28&lt;/code&gt; or &quot;home all&quot; but also for &lt;code&gt;G28 Z&lt;/code&gt; to &quot;home Z axis&quot;) and goes into some sort of a fail-safe mode where the LED keeps flashing. Sometimes it does deploy and finishes the homing instructions and continues to the &lt;code&gt;G29&lt;/code&gt; instruction (note that double probing &lt;code&gt;#define MULTIPLE_PROBING 2&lt;/code&gt; is enabled in the Marlin 1.1.8 firmware) and show similar symptoms as described above for the &lt;code&gt;G28&lt;/code&gt; command. Note that failing to deploy the probe sometimes leads to a rising build platform that does not stop, other times some fail safe kicks in and the bed lowers and aborts the print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To lift the fail-safe condition, a reset of the sensor is required (this can be done through the LCD or by command &lt;code&gt;M280 P0 S160&lt;/code&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What I have done to solve the problem&lt;/strong&gt; is to isolate the wires from the 3D touch sensor as I was under the impression that this was related to electromagnetic interference (therefore when the sensor is probing, the bed and heater cartridge are not powered momentarily), but that did not help. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any suggestions and solutions to get it working again are appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-09-23T21:29:16.533" LastActivityDate="2022-06-01T13:48:10.060" Title="3DTouch sensor fails after probe deployment and triggering" Tags="|marlin|z-probe|bed-leveling|3dtouch|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6960" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2018-09-20T11:18:08.020" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.geeetech.com/geeetech-3dtouch-auto-bed-leveling-sensor-for-3d-printer-p-1010.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Geeetech 3Dtouch&lt;/a&gt;, manufactured by &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.geeetech.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Shenzhen Getech Technology Co.,Ltd&lt;/a&gt;, is a sensor similar to the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.antclabs.com/bltouch&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;BLTouch&lt;/a&gt; sensor that enables auto leveling by detection of the build plate level and adjust printing height accordingly by the firmware.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="150" LastEditDate="2018-10-26T05:27:41.213" LastActivityDate="2018-10-26T05:27:41.213" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6961" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2018-09-20T11:18:08.020" Score="0" Body="A Z-probe based on a Hall effect sensor to enable determining the distance from the nozzle to the bed (and thus the level of the bed)." OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-09-20T11:18:08.020" LastActivityDate="2018-09-20T11:18:08.020" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6962" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6949" CreationDate="2018-09-20T15:57:47.370" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Adding to the other more scientific answers here. The backdriving force will move the lead screws depending on the stiction between the lead screw and the nut. If it was friction less then it will always slide. Basically you need to keep the lead screw from turning while the machine is off. You can make a basic electromagnetic clutch which will add some resistance to turning by using double pole double throw relays to short the motor leads to ground when the power is off. You can test this yourself by just connecting all the lead wires together and then try turning the motor spindle by hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Rycew.gif&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Rycew.gif&quot; alt=&quot;Concept of an electromagnetic brake&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Electromagnetic_brake&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Electromagnetic_brake&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12857" LastEditorUserId="12857" LastEditDate="2018-09-21T19:19:48.463" LastActivityDate="2018-09-21T19:19:48.463" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6963" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4875" CreationDate="2018-09-21T03:42:17.180" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Given that &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.loc.gov/preservation/digital/formats/fdd/fdd000418.shtml&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;LAS/LAZ&lt;/a&gt; is LiDAR point cloud data, there is a GIS tool called &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.cs.unc.edu/~isenburg/lastools/download/las2tin_README.txt&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;las2tin&lt;/a&gt; to convert these files to a triangle based mesh called Triangular irregular networks or TIN by the GIS community. Other GIS tools should be able to do the same, for example &lt;a href=&quot;http://pro.arcgis.com/en/pro-app/tool-reference/3d-analyst/las-dataset-to-tin.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;ArcGIS&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you have the mesh, Google should be able to help you find a way to convert the TIN to an STL. You will need to scale down the STL after creation, as the TIN will probably be at 100% scale.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One example workflow for converting LAS data into an STL is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Using ArcScene: open DEM &gt; convert to TIN &gt; export to VRML&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Using MeshLab: open VRML &gt; export to STL&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Using Meshmixer: extrude base &gt; scale to fit standard printing parameters &gt; save as finished STL&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More details for the process that I got from Google are available &lt;a href=&quot;https://docs.google.com/viewer?a=v&amp;amp;pid=sites&amp;amp;srcid=ZGVmYXVsdGRvbWFpbnxzZ2NjYXJ0fGd4OjY5ZDk1OTY3MjY4OTY4NWM&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="150" LastEditorUserId="150" LastEditDate="2018-09-21T10:19:58.653" LastActivityDate="2018-09-21T10:19:58.653" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6964" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6971" CreationDate="2018-09-21T04:23:35.593" Score="3" ViewCount="379" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I've got a couple problems, to begin I'm using the RAMPs 1.4, generic Arduino mega with Marlin, generic stepper motor drivers, a generic power supply. Nothing is special or even out of the ordinary. But for some reason when I plug the RAMPs in, with everything connected or everything unplugged my Arduino heats up like hell. I clocked it at around 60°c after a couple seconds of being powered on around where the main chip is. The voltage regulator seems fine because it doesn't heat up much, I've checked it around 40°c. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second problem is the stepper motor drivers keep blowing up for some reason. With everything plugged in I power on the board for the first time and hear a small pop and then a small amount of smoke comes from the extruder driver. I replaced it thinking it was just a bad chip and the same thing happens. All other chips are fine it's just the extruder that fries.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the board is plugged into usb it doesn't give me any readings what so ever on what the printer is doing but the Arduino works fine with anything else I throw at it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Things I've tried: &#xA;- Lower the voltage on the power supply from 12.00v to 11.26 with no changes&#xA;- try running it with everything plugged in and everything unplugged&#xA;- tried buying a new Arduino but the exact same problems occur&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've gotten kinda tired of thinking of ways to trouble shoot so I'll open it up to the community.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/79DqF.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt; Picture of a friend stepper driver &lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13014" LastActivityDate="2018-09-27T08:04:01.497" Title="Reprap RAMPs over heating issues" Tags="|ramps-1.4|stepper-driver|heat-management|arduino|power-supply|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6965" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6967" CreationDate="2018-09-21T06:13:23.900" Score="16" ViewCount="33020" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently became curious about the Line Width setting in Cura and why one might change it if they aren't using different size nozzle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since I've gotten my Ender 3, I've always kept the line width equal to my nozzle size (&lt;em&gt;0.4 mm&lt;/em&gt;). I've &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/comments/5zxj1z/should_line_width_always_nozzle_size/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;looked around a bit&lt;/a&gt;, and it seems like most people actually set their line widths to be higher, depending upon who you ask anywhere from 120 - 150 % nozzle diameter. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why is this? They mention that it helps with print adhesion, but why? Shouldn't a 0.4 mm nozzle create a line of plastic 0.4 mm wide, necessitating a line spacing of 0.4 mm?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12377" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2019-08-09T07:20:50.857" LastActivityDate="2019-08-09T07:20:50.857" Title="Why is it conventional to set line width &gt; nozzle diameter?" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|slicing|nozzle|knowledgebase|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6966" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6965" CreationDate="2018-09-21T07:57:10.020" Score="11" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Shouldn't a 0.4&amp;nbsp;mm nozzle create a line of plastic 0.4&amp;nbsp;mm wide&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not necessarily. Due to a phenomenon known as &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Die_swell&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;die swell&lt;/a&gt; extruding plastic through a 0.4&amp;nbsp;mm nozzle, the line of plastic that is created is actually slightly wider. Pressure inside the extruder compresses the plastic slightly, and it expands again as it exists the nozzle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;They mention that it helps with print adhesion, but why?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you extrude a thicker line of plastic than your nozzle diameter, the &quot;excess&quot; plastic is compressed by the nozzle and forced out to the side. This pushes the plastic into the layer below, increasing adhesion. You can compare this to taking a hot glue gun, pressing the tip into the surface and squeezing the trigger, versus lifting the glue gun above the surface and letting the glue drip onto the surface. Doing the former creates much stronger adhesion. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a side effect, using thicker lines makes it easier to get the first layer to stick, since the thicker line has more surface area to adhere to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-08-09T04:49:40.430" LastActivityDate="2019-08-09T04:49:40.430" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6967" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6965" CreationDate="2018-09-21T10:41:45.113" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are several things at play that can make a wider line nice to have:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;First layer adhesion&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Due to some filaments having serious struggle to get the first line or layer stuck to the bed, it can be an easy fix to just increase the line width, generating a bigger Adhesive Force &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$F_a\propto A(l,w)$&lt;/span&gt;, where A is the area covered by the line, and thus simply &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$A=l*w$&lt;/span&gt; with length l and width w of the line. So, a wider line means better &lt;em&gt;initial&lt;/em&gt; adhesion and &lt;em&gt;can&lt;/em&gt; lead to less failed prints in layer 1.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Plastic Goo&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Plastics under heat behave in certain ways: they turn into a gooey substance that expands. This is also the reason why prints shrink a little as they cool. Now, if we press the plastic onto the bed with more force (as we force more plastic through than before to go from 0.4 mm to 0.5 mm) for the first time, we have a roughly flat area. The extra filament will make a wider line. The slicher can account for that, and does.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, next layer up: Where does the extra material go now? Plastic goo has one property that is very interesting: it tries to shrink its surface as much as possible. Heat a short piece with an airgun and it gets a little beady. But on the other hand, it comes hot enough from the nozzle to melt a tiny surface area of the already built layers, which is how layer bonding works in the first place. But our goopy plastic finds the layer below not exactly flat like the first layer found its lower surface, it finds a shape of ridges and valley. Taking into account that it wants to have the least surface to non-plastic (=air) and slightly cross bonds with the print, it will fill these nooks and crevices &lt;em&gt;inside&lt;/em&gt; the print a tiny little better, as the increased force we use to push it out also increased the speed at which it expands to them: we reduce the time a tiny bit to reach there. How does it matter?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.ytimg.com/vi/0XcMz05zejI/maxresdefault.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.ytimg.com/vi/0XcMz05zejI/maxresdefault.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;a thermal image of a 3D print&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Well, heat transfer bases, roughly speaking, on a formula like this: &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$Q = mc\Delta T$&lt;/span&gt; Q is the thermal energy of the object, m the mass of the object, c its specific heat capacity and T the temperature, ΔT the temperature change. But we don't have a homogenous object, we got pretty much a heat distribution with touching zones of different heat. The actual formula for the heat transfer inside the object is a long mess containing stuff like the gradient &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$\text{grad}T$&lt;/span&gt;, thermal conductivities, and integrals, but what matters is the result: The faster-expanding line of filament loses a little less thermal energy to its surroundings than the less forceful extruded line, which can increase the bonding between the two as the temperature on several fronts:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;it enters the crevices further before reverting from goo to solid, leading to better adhesion for more surface.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;it contains more thermal energy that can and will get transmitted to the layer below and has a bigger surface area, so it can increase the zone thickness that gets remelted a tiny bit, increasing the layer bonding strength a little.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This &lt;em&gt;can&lt;/em&gt; result in a problem though: if you don't give the printed lines enough time to cool, it can lead to the material to accumulate heat more and more, leading to the whole thing to melt and turn into goop. An easy fix to this side problem is minimum layer time. But that would be only tangential to the original question, so look for example at the question &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/4975/printing-starts-well-but-then-it-breaks-down-anet-a8/4976#4976&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; or the video the thermal picture above is taken from &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0XcMz05zejI&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:29:41.667" LastActivityDate="2018-09-21T10:41:45.113" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6968" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6969" CreationDate="2018-09-21T11:28:37.490" Score="10" ViewCount="3893" Body="&lt;p&gt;My question would like to address what would be &lt;strong&gt;better&lt;/strong&gt; for &lt;strong&gt;adhesion&lt;/strong&gt; and general quality and possibly strength: either &lt;em&gt;increase the slicer line width&lt;/em&gt; option or &lt;em&gt;increase the slicer extrusion multiplier&lt;/em&gt; for layer to layer adhesion?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This question has a relation to &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/q/6965/5740&quot;&gt;Why is it conventional to set line width &gt; nozzle diameter?&lt;/a&gt;&quot;. &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/6966/5740&quot;&gt;This answer&lt;/a&gt; on that question addresses a phenomenon called &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Die_swell&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;die swell&lt;/a&gt; to &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/Cmu4-Y8JKU8?t=32&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;explain&lt;/a&gt; that the extrusion width is generally larger than the nozzle diameter even if the line width in the slicer is set to the nozzle diameter. Basically, increasing the line width increases the extrusion multiplier, so why not set that directly?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sSvon.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sSvon.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Die swell explained&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2019-02-26T14:15:50.733" LastActivityDate="2022-04-20T19:50:34.517" Title="Slicer line width vs. extrusion multiplier for layer adhesion?" Tags="|slicing|extrusion|nozzle|knowledgebase|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6969" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6968" CreationDate="2018-09-21T11:53:00.900" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Generally speaking&lt;/em&gt;, both settings result in the same&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;: The feed rate of the filament gets adjusted. Either you set a general multiplier, or you demand a wider line which does make it set a higher multiplier hidden in the software.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1 - if you don't look at any other factor that is!&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;But...&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is always a but, and this one is big:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While we can work with the extrusion multiplier to get wider lines, wider lines do change another setting: it changes the distance between the lines too. Let me show you:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you print 100% at 0.4 mm line width, lines are about&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; 0.4 mm wide at 0.4 mm distance.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you print 100% at 0.5 mm line width, lines are about&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; 0.5 mm wide at 0.5 mm distance.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you print 121% at 0.4 mm line width, lines are about&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; 0.5 mm wide at 0.4 mm distance.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2 - ignoring die swell effects&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The result is pretty clear: the theoretical lines do overlap, which will lead to the polymer goop getting squished and pressed around to bulge up. Luckily, that stuff &lt;em&gt;usually&lt;/em&gt; ends in the infill on the lower layers, but it can result in very messy sides. You pretty much deliberately chose to massively overextrude!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To say it blatantly: line width changes the overall geometry of the slicing to account for the extra material getting extruded, extrusion multiplier does not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;What is the extrusion multiplier for THEN?&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Well, using the extrusion multiplier can be done for many reasons, but mainly 2 are interesting:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Troubleshooting. You can just amp it up or down to test your mechanical properties. Like if your gear ratios on the extruder are correct. Or if your print needs a thicker line to get the first layer sticking.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Dialing in Filaments. In its core, it is meant to allow to change the flow because different polymer blends might have different mechanical and thermal properties.&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Different filament blends can have different &lt;em&gt;bite&lt;/em&gt; of the extruder gear - if the teeth dig in deeper, then the effective diameter of the gear gets smaller. This can partially be mitigated by the extruder design using gears designed to prevent shifting the depth of &lt;em&gt;bite&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;For example, the filler and paint could lead to more thermal expansion and die swell, or they could reduce it. This behavior can be tackled directly by adjusting the extrusion multiplier.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Those properties are why you should calibrate your settings when getting a new type (color&amp;amp;manufacturer) of filament. While some manufacturers try to keep the properties along their lines similar, some won't.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It might not look too obvious at first, but I once had printed a model from one roll of white PLA that came from China. Then I got my fingers on some other PLA that was transparent from the same warehouse. I tried to print the exact same .gcode with it again and got a hyper fragile object that just could get squished, every time I used it with the same settings as the white PLA. I had to increase both the extrusion multiplier and change the temperature to get the same strength as with the other PLA.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2022-04-20T19:50:34.517" LastActivityDate="2022-04-20T19:50:34.517" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6970" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6959" CreationDate="2018-09-21T14:09:12.673" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;After troubleshooting I have managed to fix the sensor problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;(Please take note of the &lt;strong&gt;update&lt;/strong&gt; at the end of the answer below as the problem started again shortly after the so-called fix...)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Digging into several posts I found &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.geeetech.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=27&amp;amp;t=18263&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this post&lt;/a&gt; that hints to a solution:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8YlLa.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8YlLa.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Instructions to adjust the 3DTouch sensor&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After readjusting, the sensor worked and I was able to produce a print, but the next day it failed again... What I found is that the bed and extruder are &lt;strong&gt;NOT&lt;/strong&gt; shut off while probing although that should have been enabled in Marlin 1.1.8. I assumed that this de-powering is only during the actual probe lowering, so very short. So I figured that this might be an EMI problem. In a last resort I updated to Marlin 1.1.9 which has the functionality to shut the power off for heater and bed and everything now seems to work perfectly. I now see that the de-powering is a bit longer and in fact the extruder temperature drops slightly, this has never been seen with the previous firmware version.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update&lt;/strong&gt;:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Not long after the &amp;quot;update&amp;quot;/&amp;quot;fix&amp;quot; the problem manifested itself again... Further troubleshooting revealed that it was a bad connection of the connectors of the sensor that got temporarily &amp;quot;fixed&amp;quot; as the cables had been fiddled with during the firmware update.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;I have to note that the quality of these non-genuine sensors is not close the the original BLTouch. The BLTouch has never failed me to date, while several 3DTouch sensors did...&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2022-06-01T13:48:10.060" LastActivityDate="2022-06-01T13:48:10.060" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6971" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6964" CreationDate="2018-09-21T19:01:25.710" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This really sounds like there is a short somewhere on the RAMPS add-on board. It is advised to not use the RAMPS add-on shield to prevent damage to the Arduino or the shield.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally, I would ditch this one and buy a new one. By the looks of the picture you are using a clone RAMPS, these are mass produced and the quality is not always the best (many components are skew). If you are very into electronics you could try to find the short, but it can well be that the traces on the board are somehow connected. Alternatively, you could buy a new board where RAMPS and Arduino are already combined, e.g. an MKS board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-09-27T08:04:01.497" LastActivityDate="2018-09-27T08:04:01.497" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6972" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6935" CreationDate="2018-09-21T23:09:23.690" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cura has and/or had a memory leak (or some other similar phenomenon) that occurs if you leave it running for a long time.  I have left Cura running for days or a week or three and eventually ran into a similar problem.  One could infer that you've left Cura running for a month, though it's not clear in your question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I update Cura a few weeks ago (maybe a couple months) and noticed that it had a substantially smaller memory footprint, so that tells me they are working on memory management.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looking in the &lt;a href=&quot;https://ultimaker.com/en/products/ultimaker-cura-software/release-notes&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;release notes&lt;/a&gt;, you can see that 2 versions ago they implemented analytics, which is possibly a reason for the poor performance.  You'll also notice a lot of new features and bugs fixed int hat version.  That means a lot of work went into it.  Coupled with the short time to another release, and I think they're working on  fixing things.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a more precise answer, include details and specs about your PC, internet connection, mother's maiden name, SSN, etc.  I'm kidding about the last 2, but it is probably a PC or software problem that you're running into.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5576" LastActivityDate="2018-09-21T23:09:23.690" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6973" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5686" CreationDate="2018-09-22T11:59:28.713" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I also have this problem with the X5S, and it's not just on the first layer (which is sometimes finicky depending on the levelling). I've narrowed it down to a few things, and I've also noticed that it varies based on the print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Possible Causes (and a suggested solution for each):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Bad quality hotend assembly: My X5S has a teflon-lined hotend, and besides that I don't like the rather small heatsink, mine came such that the bowden tube acts as the teflon lining, ie the lining and the bowden tube are the same piece. Already not a great design, but the implementation is slightly worrying. I'd recommend switching the hotend for a genuine E3D, I myself am planning on getting a Cyclops+ Aqua, which will be sure to resolve any existing issues.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Bowden tube is iffy: I'm not sure about this one, but I've noticed quite a bit of resistance in the bowden tube while loading filaments. I think this is causing excessive force on the Extruder motor (which I've noticed heats up quite a bit more than the other motors, to the point where I've added a heatsink to avoid possible damage). My solution is to swap the teflon for the blue Capricorn tubing from Trianglelabs.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Extruder setup isn't that great: As I mentioned before, the extruder motor tends to heat up a bit, and I just don't like the implementation of the extruder gears. I'd recommend switching this setup for a different one, if possible.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Print temperature and speed: I've noted that when I increase the temperature and decrease the speed of prints, the clicking reduces in frequency, but it does still occasionally click and my prints turn out horribly. This might be pointing to an issue with either extruder calibration or the flow rate during a print, as mentioned by other people here.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cheers!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13027" LastEditorUserId="13027" LastEditDate="2018-09-22T14:32:55.527" LastActivityDate="2018-09-22T14:32:55.527" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6974" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-09-22T21:45:25.333" Score="1" ViewCount="35" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm working on creating parts which I want to fit snugly together. Obviously, if I make the female side of it 5mm and the male part of it also 5mm, it isn't going to fit together due to interference ... IOW: it's going to be too tight to fit together correctly. My questions are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How much relief should I leave between pieces? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is there a &quot;standard practice&quot;?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do different shapes demand different relief distances?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Are there any factors which might affect leaving more or less relief between parts?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11242" LastActivityDate="2018-09-22T21:45:25.333" Title="How much relief between parts?" Tags="|3d-design|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2018-09-26T03:06:55.833" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6975" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4031" CreationDate="2018-09-23T00:41:58.767" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Longer lead&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pros:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Faster movement (mostly benefits homing)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;More standard&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Weak motor friendly&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Might be slightly more stable (sideways) than shorter leads because of more starts creating more contact with nut (?)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cons&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Backlash&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Less resolution (unless using 0.9 degree motor but see note&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;) although this is ignorable since it's still very high. It's already around 5x higher than xy axes using the longest leads&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Shorter leads&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pros&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;More accuracy if you turn off microstepping. it can give you more resolution, but it's useless resolution unless you print with &amp;lt; 0.01&amp;nbsp;mm layer heights&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt;. Turning off microstepping trades away this useless resolution for increased accuracy. But this comes at the cost of (much) louder drivers.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Less backlash&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cons&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Stronger motors maybe needed&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Slower homing&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason why companies prefer longer leads is because shorter leads simply add useless resolution and slows down movement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Footnotes&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; It makes more sense to use higher degree motors to drive shorter leads than vice versa because of higher torque.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;  0.0025&amp;nbsp;mm vs 0.0125&amp;nbsp;mm&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt; or using a probe to autolevel, which causes the z axis to go up and down in very small increments &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11272" LastEditorUserId="11272" LastEditDate="2018-09-24T19:24:16.313" LastActivityDate="2018-09-24T19:24:16.313" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6976" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2621" CreationDate="2018-09-23T07:26:39.830" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Nowadays you don’t need all metal hot ends if using Capricorn PTFE tubing rates at 340&amp;nbsp;°C. Works great, runs smoothly, problem free and prints nylon without a glitch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12926" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-09-23T18:17:52.407" LastActivityDate="2018-09-23T18:17:52.407" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6977" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6978" CreationDate="2018-09-23T09:50:33.600" Score="6" ViewCount="731" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking into upgrading my heated bed and replacing it with a silicone bed. I know nearly nothing about electronics, so I would like someone more knowledgeable to confirm if what I have theorized is correct or I'm going to burn my house down trying it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically, I'm considering setting up a &lt;a href=&quot;https://es.aliexpress.com/item/200X200mm-200W-12V-w-NTC-100K-Thermistor-Keenovo-Silicone-Heater-3D-Printer-Heater-Heatbed-First-Grade/32274880644.html?spm=a2g0s.13010208.99999999.259.28a13c00kHg4Pl&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;200W@12V heater&lt;/a&gt;, and I am using &lt;a href=&quot;https://ooznest.co.uk/product/ramps-14-controller-board-premium/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this premium ramps&lt;/a&gt;, which reportedly has &lt;a href=&quot;https://toshiba.semicon-storage.com/info/docget.jsp?did=13466&amp;amp;prodName=TK72E12N1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Toshiba TK72E12N1, S1X&lt;/a&gt; MOSFETs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did some basic math following &lt;a href=&quot;https://toms3d.org/2016/01/11/guide-properly-picking-and-using-mosfets/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Tom's guide&lt;/a&gt;, if that is correct, I would be pulling 16&amp;nbsp;A current. Assuming I plug the heatbed directly to the ramps, that would mean the MOSFETs are losing approximately (considering 20&amp;nbsp;% more resistance than the datasheet says as per Tom's advice) about 1.2&amp;nbsp;W, which means the MOSFET would heat up about 100&amp;nbsp;°C above room temperature, so the total temp would be around 125&amp;nbsp;°C, which is below the graded 150&amp;nbsp;°C in the sheet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to this math, I'm thinking I can just plug that heater to my RAMPS board without any issues. Should this cause any issues? Will it set a fire or melt down something? Anything else I should consider?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13030" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-09-23T18:17:06.350" LastActivityDate="2018-09-23T18:17:06.350" Title="Upgrading to silicone heat bed, will it burn my house down?" Tags="|heated-bed|ramps-1.4|safety|cooling|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6978" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6977" CreationDate="2018-09-23T10:16:59.227" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The heated bed port on your board has a 11A fuse. It will not work for a heated bed requiring 16A of current, no matter how good the MOSFETs might be. Note that the terminal block might also not be rated for that much current. You'd have to check, because often it is not the MOSFET itself that catches fire but the wiring or terminal blocks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, keep in mind RAMPS only drives the gate with 5V. The value specified in the datasheet (for 10V) plus 20% is probably a bit optimistic. The datasheet doesn't specify the resistance at 5V, so you're guessing at what the resistance might be. Since you're already running the part quite close to its limits, and considering ambient temperature might rise above 25C, I'd be cautious. The designers of that board only intended it for use at 11A, probably with good reason...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastActivityDate="2018-09-23T10:16:59.227" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6980" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-09-24T10:28:40.320" Score="2" ViewCount="308" Body="&lt;p&gt;What's the best way (outside of silica beads) to store filament sensitive to moisture? I feel like filament buried under a couple pounds of rice will stay pretty dry. &#xA;    I understand that frequently  exposing the rice to humid air will cause the rice to less effective but I would only plan on opening the container to put a new spool in and replace the old one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="635" LastActivityDate="2018-09-25T21:13:57.410" Title="Filament storage?" Tags="|filament|filament-quality|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="9" ClosedDate="2018-10-01T15:33:14.210" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6981" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-09-24T14:03:49.703" Score="2" ViewCount="98" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am currently building my first self designed delta printer (because the Chinese kits lack mechanical stability). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After setting up the firmware and some basic sizes (rods, z-height, ...), I tested the auto calibration method of Marlin. I was surprised, that this method came with slightly different horizontal distance values then I entered initially (~185 mm vs 190 mm). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can someone explain what this method is actually doing, how it works in detail and how it calculates the horizontal distance, by just knowing the rod length? I have not found much more than it seems to be a &quot;least square&quot; method and tipping some points. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10847" LastEditorUserId="10847" LastEditDate="2018-09-25T09:56:16.750" LastActivityDate="2018-09-25T09:56:16.750" Title="How does the auto calibration mechanism for delta printers work" Tags="|calibration|delta|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6982" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-09-24T19:19:10.437" Score="10" ViewCount="16503" Body="&lt;p&gt;As I started to learn about 3D printing, the gist I learned was &amp;quot;it's better to store the filaments in a drybox.&amp;quot; As I rechecked these notes, they were to a good degree from an era when PLA was rather new to the market and ABS was the goTo.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then I learned &amp;quot;PLA is not really hygroscopic and can be stored freely.&amp;quot;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, I know some materials are pretty hygroscopic, but not all. So, let's try to pin it down:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Which materials are hygroscopic enough to demand a drybox?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know that it is good practice to store all filament &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/84/does-filament-have-to-be-stored-in-an-airtight-environment&quot;&gt;in a somewhat dehumidified or airtight box&lt;/a&gt;, but there are some materials out there that become &lt;strong&gt;unprintable&lt;/strong&gt; and need drying before printing if improperly stored. &lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;This question is to point out these &amp;quot;special storage mandatory&amp;quot; filaments only.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt; If a material can't be printed without dry storage it belongs here. If it is a nice to have, it doesn't.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a &lt;strong&gt;Back It Up&lt;/strong&gt; question: answers need to provide one of two:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;explain personal experience, marked as such.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;provide an authoritative source (scientific paper/videos, manufacturer papers, quote from an experienced maker).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1 - For some time (month?). I do store my PLA in a closed but unsealed IKEA container with all the desiccant bags I can find as it is clearly &lt;em&gt;benefitial&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:29:41.667" LastActivityDate="2020-11-26T21:39:18.070" Title="Which filaments actually do need to be stored in a drybox?" Tags="|filament|" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6983" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6982" CreationDate="2018-09-24T19:27:42.160" Score="6" Body="&lt;h1&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://ultimaker.com/en/products/materials/pva&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;PVA&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From experience I can tell that PVA filaments need to be stored with silica beads in a plastic bag or in a specific dry-box. PVA is soluble in water and is very hygroscopic. With moisture it gets soft and swells. My Ultimaker came with an open spool of PVA which popped when heated (steam bubbles popping) resulting in very poor quality supports and clogging of the nozzle. A newly bought spool which was properly packed did not have these issues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Nylon&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some Nylon filament brands require to be stored dry or need to be dried before printing. I have a spool of Nylon that has taken up some moisture although carefully packed, the only time it was out is when it was being printed. This experience applies to Ultimaker Nylon; I've learned now that not all Nylon filaments are behaving the same, it is suggested to look-up the specifics from the manufacturer or from reviews prior to buying.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:29:41.667" LastActivityDate="2018-09-26T22:13:46.860" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6984" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6982" CreationDate="2018-09-25T05:11:54.420" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Necessary: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;PVA otherwise it will become unprintable, because it is VERY hydrophilic and becomes soft, but it is dryable &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Better to store boxed:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;PLA otherwise it can became brittle, I have some of such PLA, it brakes from time to time if it is just loaded, but luckily it doesn't broke while printing so far. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Nylon is also hydrophilic &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Generally you should google for the material you want to use and look for hydrophilic properties or other, e.g. gas releasing, properties and so on. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9575" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-09-26T02:50:38.397" LastActivityDate="2018-09-26T02:50:38.397" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6985" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6982" CreationDate="2018-09-25T11:18:28.027" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;PEEK (polyetheretherketone) will print better if has less moisture, and should be used at under 1%. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PPSU (polyphenylsulfone) prints terribly unless it is extremely low humidity (under 0.1%), and is really only reliable when run from a drier to the print head without any exposure to &quot;normal&quot; humidity from the air in the room. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The point at which you have visible cosmetic issues comes at a different point than that at which you have visible structural issues, but even when no cosmetic issues are visible, there are still potential structural issues at a microscopic level.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4922" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2018-09-29T11:51:54.257" LastActivityDate="2018-09-29T11:51:54.257" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6986" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6997" CreationDate="2018-09-25T19:54:31.450" Score="5" ViewCount="2971" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've long since been aware that some people swear by &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kapton&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Kapton tape&lt;/a&gt; as a bed adhesive, with MatterHackers &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.matterhackers.com/store/c/Kapton%20Tape&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;claiming that Kapton tape is the recommended bed adhesive for ABS&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What makes Kapton tape so useful for printing with ABS? Is it also useful for printing with other materials?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12377" LastActivityDate="2018-10-01T20:08:55.693" Title="When is kapton tape useful as a bed adhesive?" Tags="|abs|adhesion|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6987" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="542" CreationDate="2018-09-25T21:13:44.830" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;AVR processors are 8 bit - thus they can only fetch data from memory 8 bits at a time - while an ARM is 32 bit and can fetch data 32 bits at a time. Position resolution requires a 24 bit value minimum - this means the AVR takes 3 data fetches for the position - whereas the ARM takes 1 data fetch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Worse still, AVR processors internally divide the clock by 3, so that a 40&amp;nbsp;MHz AVR is running at 13.3 MHz typically, while an ARM is 1 clock cycle per bus transaction and instruction processing - this includes a 32 bit by 32 bit multiple in 1 clock cycle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The memory map on ARM processors is 32 bit wide or 4&amp;nbsp;GB while 8 bit processors only have an address bus of 16 bits or 64&amp;nbsp;KB - which means that bank switching comes into play on any program over 64&amp;nbsp;KB - this takes instructions and time to be done - while with the ARM this is not an issue. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The cost aspects is about the same as AVRs - it just requires redesigned firmware.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for FPGAs: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;They cost the same or more than the processor &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;They are fast, specialized, devices and can be configured for specialized task &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;They have additional cost factors:&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;lots more decoupling caps are needed because of the speed of the circuits in the FPGA. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Require additional power supplies, and ground planes and power plans - which tends to mean (and require) a minimum of a 4 layer board, or possibly 6 layers, which adds to the cost of the electronics &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The result of adding a FPGA to a AVR will cost a lot more than going to a more powerful ARM processor. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13052" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-09-26T09:59:07.830" LastActivityDate="2018-09-26T09:59:07.830" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6988" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6980" CreationDate="2018-09-25T21:13:57.410" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you don't want to use silica beads, or can't get any (it seems to be a very American thing, you can't buy any here in France except if you go through a specialized reseller), you can put them in a sealable plastic box with one of those big &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.leroymerlin.fr/v3/p/produits/absorbeur-d-humidite-avec-galet-perce-1-galet-gratuit-axton-20-m2-e1501491079&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;desiccants for rooms&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's what I use for my Nylon and PVA from Ultimaker and it works like a charm. It keeps humidity at about 25% inside the plastic box, and I even managed to save a roll of PVA by letting rest in a box with one of these for a couple weeks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12917" LastActivityDate="2018-09-25T21:13:57.410" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6990" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7004" CreationDate="2018-09-25T23:49:57.660" Score="4" ViewCount="2806" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm a 2-week newbie at 3D printing, working on a new Qidi Xpro machine (that is solid and one that I like). So, I do not want to believe that this issue is caused by my printer itself. I'm hoping that my settings have something to do with it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem is all the filament lines (travel lines, I think) that start at a sharp corner and go somewhere else. Most often, the lines go to another sharp corner but sometimes can intersect the middle of a side. See the image below for many examples. I have drawn white lines parallel to the unwanted filament lines in case they are hard to spot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The unwanted lines also appear in the infill underneath the surface lines. They look like porous infill grid lines since they should probably not be there, and they do not get a full load of filament extrusion. You could easily say &quot;Oh, they are the result of a &quot;leaky&quot; nozzle with poor retraction, but I think it's more complicated than that. I have done a full load of retraction tests and calibrations to optimize retraction lengths and speeds to minimize hairs. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is an image showing the problem:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PnCci.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PnCci.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Unwanted filament trails and infill lines parallel to white lines&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UWQbv.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UWQbv.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;An image showing the trails in the infill&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My Cura settings seem reasonable for PLA: bed 50C, nozzle 200C, print speed 40mm, travel speed 90mm (100-110 makes no difference), retraction length 8.5-9.5mm (makes no big difference), retraction speed 35mm, infill: density 20% (line, grid, makes no difference), z-seam set to random, retract at new layer = enabled.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to believe that something in my settings is telling the machine to extrude a 1/2 or 1/3 amount of filament when it starts those travels from sharp corners to somewhere else. But, I have not been able to solve the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Everything else works fine in a print (IMHO) except for another problem that I &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6945/infill-failure-at-the-far-corner-of-two-different-prints&quot;&gt;described here&lt;/a&gt;. I thought I fixed that one, but I saw it occur on the image shown above (inside the infill, under the surface that is shown above).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone have any ideas that I might try to solve the problem? Thank you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;UPDATE: Here's an image with Zhop when retracted enabled at zhop height 1mm. This is an infill picture, so it cannot be directly compared to the surfaced original. But, the unwanted trails are all still there (although very thin). Maybe 2mm hop height will do it. I will run another test.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LYvRg.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LYvRg.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;With Z-Hop When Retracted = enabled, hop height 1mm&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;UPDATE:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I ran a second test with zhop 2.0mm, but without success. The problem was still there. (Retraction on, 8.5mm, min distance 0.8mm). Here is a comparison picture. I think the gcode is definitely telling my printer to do what it does, because the problem is not just a random leak. I think I'll try a different slicer in hopes that it generates different gcode.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CZjwx.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CZjwx.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Zhop comparision, 1.0mm on the right.&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;UPDATE ON COMBING&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Oscar pointed me to the Cura &quot;combing&quot; setting in his comment below. He nailed teh problem perfectly. Combing means &quot;don't retract, and ooze as you please while you move in a straight line to the destination.&quot; That's exactly what I've been showing in my images.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The default for Cura combing is enabled. As a newbie, I didn't know enough to turn it off. Worse yet, if combing is enabled (&quot;don't retract&quot;), it prevents &quot;Zhop When Retracted&quot; from zhopping. So, all my zhop experiments did exactly nothing and had zero effect because no zhopping was occurring. After I disabled combing, then for the first time in my life I actually saw what a zhop looked like. (And thus I can assert that zhopping was not happening with combining=enabled.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is an image of my new &quot;perfect&quot; prints thanks to Oscar's pointer on combing. The left two prints have combing off, zhop off. They are almost perfect, inside and out. The infill walls are generally solid and smooth (20% infill) and without the globs and gaps in the image on the right (with combing on).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3Mkik.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3Mkik.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a closing note, I think the combing setting was probably also responsible for the problem of missing infill grids in the corner, &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6945/infill-failure-at-the-far-corner-of-two-different-prints&quot;&gt;as described in this question.&lt;/a&gt; The problem doesn't happen with combing off. My theory is that with combing on (as it was for that question), the oozing pulls filament out of the nozzle during the travel, so there's not enough filament at the destination to bite and bond to the corner. So, turning combing off solved 3 problems for me: the awful surface lines, the unwanted trails in the infill, and the missing infills in the corner. It also greatly improved the quality of the infill walls, too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12981" LastEditorUserId="12981" LastEditDate="2018-09-27T16:09:53.340" LastActivityDate="2018-09-27T16:09:53.340" Title="How to remove unwanted filament trails from sharp corners" Tags="|pla|ultimaker-cura|retraction|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6991" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6990" CreationDate="2018-09-26T00:28:26.567" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Having run into this type of problem at the library makerspace, under a different slicer, I had a good idea where to start the search. It is, in your case, &quot;z-hop cura slicer&quot; and the best return came from &lt;a href=&quot;https://polar3d.freshdesk.com/support/discussions/topics/9000021981&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Polar3D&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keep in mind that this post is more than 2 years old, but if the feature was there before, it should be there now. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Summary (okay, dead straight copy/paste):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Cura settings &gt; Basic &gt; Enable Retraction - details (click the little&#xA;  gear/cog) &gt; &quot;Z hop when retracting (mm)&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;You may see it default to 0.3mm, try raising this somewhere around&#xA;  0.8mm - 1.0mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastActivityDate="2018-09-26T00:28:26.567" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6992" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-09-26T01:43:47.943" Score="1" ViewCount="46" Body="&lt;p&gt;I downloaded simplified 3d to use with Mach 3 everything seems to work properly except for the extruder which will not communicate with the new software. Not moving filament that is my only problem what is going on?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13056" LastActivityDate="2018-09-26T04:14:01.993" Title="Simplified 3d will not run extruder" Tags="|extruder|software|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6993" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6992" CreationDate="2018-09-26T04:14:01.993" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;To use Mach3 to send printing you need to define the extruder as A instead E, since Mach3 only drives X,Y,Z,A and B motors. you can see an explanation &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/5454/is-possible-to-send-printing-with-mach3&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; on &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;is possible to send printing with mach3?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; Question. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I haven't tried to see if is possible to change this letters directly on 3D simplify, because i'm using ramps 1.4 instead the CNC driver control. But there is an ADDON to slice your gcode with Mach3 called gnexlab, try to find it on google search. I've downloded few years ago.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Added Link &lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/downloads/cnc2printer3D/cnc2printer3D/setup1.3.exe&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;gnexlab&lt;/a&gt; Addon&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4454" LastActivityDate="2018-09-26T04:14:01.993" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6994" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="107" CreationDate="2018-09-26T07:28:43.707" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It should be noted that the suggested methods in other answers all have the following disadvantages:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The vapor just seems to weaken the print to much faster than print smooths. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sanding melts the plastic pretty easily and just rips the print apart. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Filing helps but leaves blemishes that require the whole print to be sanded and/or painted.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11203" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-09-26T10:06:53.597" LastActivityDate="2018-09-26T10:06:53.597" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6995" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="722" CreationDate="2018-09-26T08:22:13.363" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;PETG strings at working temperature to different extents depending on brand. Some of the thinner strings are flying in the air due to the fan or mechanical stress, and are finally captured by the hot end.&#xA;I feel, PETG has two modes&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Too cold: Less to no stringing, but sometimes underextrusion and weak layer bonding&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hot enough: Stringing (from weak to strong) but good bonding&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Things which do not help&lt;/strong&gt; (at least least on my printer with direct extruder), but which I tried out individually&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Retractions past 1.5 mm on my direct extruders&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Reducing minimum distance&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Retraction speed 30 to 60 mm/s&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Z-hops&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fan speed 30% to 100%&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Things I have not tested&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Maybe minimum layer time could be increased&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Things that worked&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Coasting seems the only thing which helps, but you still have very thin strings at sufficient temperatures&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Other things to consider&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;As mentioned the PETG brand has a certain impact&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The worst Co-Polyester I tested were (by far) the XT-Filaments (pink and green)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;All regular PETG filaments were better than XT in nearly every aspect, but still tend to string to a certain degree&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10847" LastEditorUserId="10847" LastEditDate="2018-09-26T09:51:06.193" LastActivityDate="2018-09-26T09:51:06.193" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6996" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6982" CreationDate="2018-09-26T08:52:43.400" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should ask the maker or supplier of the filament which ones really need to be stored in dryboxes and which ones are safe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Technically, they can all benefit from being stored in dryboxes, but some can handle being left in the open more than others, so it also depends on how fast you go through your rolls of filament. If you use one roll of PLA a month, using a drybox for it is not necessary, if you use it in a year, then a drybox becomes useful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Though, as a rule of thumb and as was pointed in previous answers, PVA absolutely needs a drybox and Nylon also benefit greatly from being stored in one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12917" LastActivityDate="2018-09-26T08:52:43.400" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6997" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6986" CreationDate="2018-09-26T10:03:35.760" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I tested Kapton tape for PLA, ABS, PETG and XT. I know it works for other materials as well. What you need to keep in mind is that many materials only stick to Kapton tape well if you use a heated bed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The advantage of Kapton tape in comparison to other materials is its heat endurance and mechanical stability. It protects the glass underneath, while you remove the print from the surface. Some filaments stick so well to glass that you may break chunks out of it.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The major disadvantage of Kapton tape is the time to apply the tape to the print surface and its very smooth surface pattern which seems odd in comparison to the rest of the print. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10847" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-10-01T20:08:55.693" LastActivityDate="2018-10-01T20:08:55.693" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6999" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6072" CreationDate="2018-09-26T11:35:49.910" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;HIPS does better with a wider nozzle; try a 1mm nozzle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4922" LastActivityDate="2018-09-26T11:35:49.910" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7000" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6982" CreationDate="2018-09-26T13:13:35.247" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;All filaments need a drybox. Before any kind of plastic is injection molded, it has to be dry. I'd advocate a vacuum sealer. If they are not free of moisture then the water will turn to steam and cause little steam explosions inside of the nozzle. This blows the molten filament out of the nozzle causing blobs, gaps and other z scaring artifacts. This is the same thing that happens in injection molding machines. Before the plastic can be placed into the hopper the plastic pellets (of any kind) must be thoroughly dry. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have personally noticed surface condensation on my PETG filament on a rainy day; here in the tropics. A spool of nylon filament that I have would not stop crackling and poping during the printing process. Its moisture absorption was so high that just having it outside while printing was enough to cause printing problems. The resulting part that I printed was also hydroscopic; so much so that it expands if you place it in water and shrinks after is is allowed to dry out. I had tried to make a cover for a water container with the nylon and foolishly turned the container upside down on the counter just to prove that it was a good seal. I came back a few hours later to find water all over my counter and the floor. The cap expanded, let go of the container, and all the water leaked out. It then dryed and shrunk back to the original size. This caused me much confusion as to why the water leaked out, as the cap was still fitting snugly on the top of the container when I came back to it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The following link from &quot;CNC Kitchen&quot; highlights these issues in more detail.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FAXUjZZER5E&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FAXUjZZER5E&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In short the video says that:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wet filament will have stringing, bubbles and substantial oozing.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Moisture can break up the long chains of the polymer changing the mechanical properties of the plastic, resulting in embrittlement.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Air bubbles end up in the printed part and result in delamination.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The surface finish of wet filament will be rough and inconsistent, requiring post processing (sanding, filling etc).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12857" LastEditorUserId="12857" LastEditDate="2018-11-27T20:58:59.737" LastActivityDate="2018-11-27T20:58:59.737" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7001" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6982" CreationDate="2018-09-26T14:02:40.210" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;All filaments should be kept in a low-humidity, dry environment.  The OP suggests that PLA doesn't need to be dried.  My experience says otherwise.  I had miserable trouble printing with a PLA spool until I dried it in an oven at about 60 C for a couple of hours.  It then printed well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A comment was made, and then refuted, about FDM being the same as injection molding.  I agree that, for this purpose, it is.  Both involve heating the plastic so that it softens, and neither process will work well if the filament is outgassing steam.  They both have a confined melt chamber, and steam will be pressurized with the plastic.  When the pressure is released, the expanding steam creates defects in the object.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is true that some filaments are more hygroscopic than others, but all filaments should be treated as if they are moisture sensitive and should be stored in a dry container.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2082" LastActivityDate="2018-09-26T14:02:40.210" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7002" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7003" CreationDate="2018-09-26T15:38:17.920" Score="4" ViewCount="4081" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Tronxy X5S and I am having issues calibrating my X and Y axis. When I print a 20 mm&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt; cube it comes out 19.9 mm x 20.4 mm x 20 mm. I have already made the belt tensions as even as I can get them but it did not change the calibration cube size.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have added &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2815168&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; upgrade to my printer for the idlers and motor mounts:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QG60X.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QG60X.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;idlers and motor mounts&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have also upgraded the hotend to a V6 clone, after this change is when I noticed the discrepancy in the calibration print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What else can cause the X and Y axis to be uneven in a CoreXY printer besides uneven tension in the belts?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;UPDATE:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Its seems Oscar was correct in his &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/7002/corexy-calibration-issue#7003&quot;&gt;assessment&lt;/a&gt; that my printer is not printing square. I printed &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2563185&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; calibration square to measure the diagonals and I got: &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$ \overline{AC} = 141.82 $&lt;/span&gt;, &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$ \overline{BD} = 141.35 $&lt;/span&gt;. I believe the correct value for these diagonals should be &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$ \sqrt{2} \times 100 \approx 141.42 $&lt;/span&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://cdn.thingiverse.com/renders/16/e6/d8/c1/f0/9bb6e035af9cc431b0bb4fa60281c967_preview_featured.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://cdn.thingiverse.com/renders/16/e6/d8/c1/f0/9bb6e035af9cc431b0bb4fa60281c967_preview_featured.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;calibration square&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Oscar also mentioned that I can adjust my firmware to correct this but I would rather fix the problem than apply a band-aid. Does this indicate that I did not assemble the printer frame correctly?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11097" LastEditorUserId="11097" LastEditDate="2018-09-27T15:20:22.997" LastActivityDate="2018-09-30T21:33:58.110" Title="CoreXY Calibration Issue" Tags="|calibration|corexy|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7003" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7002" CreationDate="2018-09-26T20:47:29.953" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Indeed, &lt;strong&gt;even belt tension is important&lt;/strong&gt;, what helped me enormously to set the same tension in the belts on my self build CoreXY is a tool like &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2589577&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vmQKB.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vmQKB.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Belt tension measurement tool&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Furthermore, be sure that you &lt;strong&gt;do not have any binding on the Y carriages&lt;/strong&gt; over the whole range. This causes inaccurate printing, e.g. outer walls not adhering to the inner walls (as I encountered myself in the beginning when tuning the printer), and thus inaccurate dimensions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also make sure that the &lt;strong&gt;print is not skew&lt;/strong&gt;, i.e. are you sure that the printer prints squares? This can be easily checked by printing a large square and measure the diagonals; I used &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2280529&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; as it will also help you find the center of the bed and the level of the bed all at once:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rcl8Bm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rcl8Bm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Calibration square&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;but many calibration prints can be found on the internet, e.g. &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2563185&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this one&lt;/a&gt; but this requires way more filament to print). Schematically this results in something like depicted below:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/c3CRQm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/c3CRQm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Schematic overview of a skew print&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it is not square, you can adjust this by using a different firmware like e.g. Marlin Firmware which has options for skewness compensation that can be addressed in the &lt;a href=&quot;http://marlinfw.org/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Marlin&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/blob/1.1.x/Marlin/Configuration.h&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Configuration.h&lt;/a&gt; file. A &quot;cube&quot; that is printed by stacking parallelograms also shows different dimensions is X and Y (one being smaller, the other being larger).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Edit&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;You mention that you changed the hotend; it is recommended to &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/6484/5740&quot;&gt;calibrate the extruder&lt;/a&gt; after changing. Note that a few tenths of a mm are very common, usually X and Y should be in the range of 20.1 mm &amp;plusmn; 0.1 mm for such a calibration cube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-09-27T18:00:05.483" LastActivityDate="2018-09-27T18:00:05.483" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7004" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6990" CreationDate="2018-09-26T21:24:39.427" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can Z-hop what you like, but if it is oozing it is oozing, you will always see the effects of that as it just drops down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically you have &lt;strong&gt;multiple issues&lt;/strong&gt;, &lt;strong&gt;first the oozing&lt;/strong&gt;, &lt;strong&gt;second the line markings on the top&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;&lt;strong&gt;First&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Oozing is fought by applying correct settings for e.g. print temperature, retraction, coasting, travel speed, as is explained in an &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/6940/5740&quot;&gt;answer&lt;/a&gt; on &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6938/what-is-this-weird-support-line-doing-in-this-print&quot;&gt;one of your own questions&lt;/a&gt;. Note that you have not explorer the coasting option as far as I understand from your question. Coasting means that you stop extruding filament prior to a move when the head is still printing. This is explained by the pressure build-up in the hotend; ideally you set the coasting length as such that all the material that is pressed out as a result of the pressure build-up is extruded just before the head moves/travels to another location. Specific calibration prints can be found to tune this for your printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/x08w4.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/x08w4.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Second&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The markings on the top can be removed by setting the correct combing setting. Combing does not use retraction and uses straight moves, this saves a lot of time in printing, but it makes those ugly scars on bottom and top faces. You can set the option to not comb on those surfaces, and frankly, what happens on the inside stays in the inside, I would not worry about that. A good read with additional info on combing is &lt;a href=&quot;https://community.ultimaker.com/topic/4850-hum-whats-combing/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this post&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:29:41.667" LastActivityDate="2018-09-27T12:36:36.587" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7005" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2018-09-26T21:58:00.503" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;A CoreXY printer is described in full details &lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/wiki/CoreXY&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; at RepRap.org.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A CoreXY uses a so-called parallel manipulator system with stationary steppers. This printer type typically has a lower inertia than other arrangements that carry a stepper or steppers in the moving parts (serial stackup). A lower inertia results in the ability to use higher acceleration and higher speeds. &lt;a href=&quot;http://corexy.com/theory.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;This&lt;/a&gt; reference shows some excellent figures on the layout of a CoreXY printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-09-26T21:58:00.503" LastActivityDate="2018-09-26T21:58:00.503" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7006" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2018-09-26T21:58:00.503" Score="0" Body="A CoreXY printer refers to a mechanical arrangement for a Cartesian printer style." OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-09-26T21:58:00.503" LastActivityDate="2018-09-26T21:58:00.503" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7007" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6315" CreationDate="2018-09-26T23:09:05.450" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Have you tried adjusting the Extra Restart Distance in Simplify3D or Retraction Extra Prime in Ultimaker Cura?  Most slicers should have a similar setting, perhaps named just slightly differently.  A small positive value can help prime the nozzle after a long travel when you've lost back pressure or oozed a little.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13062" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-09-27T05:52:07.650" LastActivityDate="2018-09-27T05:52:07.650" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7008" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-09-27T06:55:08.863" Score="4" ViewCount="2044" Body="&lt;p&gt;The skirt prints out ok, but there is balling up of filament on some of the prints.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am printing 50 small parts at a go, and the last 4 batches were perfect, but the fifth batch had filament problems like on the photo.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any advice?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1dy5q.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1dy5q.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;random filament balling&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12878" LastActivityDate="2020-10-22T16:32:37.313" Title="Filament Balling up on random parts of a print" Tags="|print-quality|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7009" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6958" CreationDate="2018-09-27T07:03:27.233" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have heard of similar scanning not using the electrical connecting but using the capacitance of the metal object to detect it. &lt;a href=&quot;https://nelsonslog.com/2016/12/10/multispectral-scanning/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Capacitive Scanning&lt;/a&gt; works by detecting a metal object near the prob so the prob doesn't have to touch the object being scanned &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1476" LastActivityDate="2018-09-27T07:03:27.233" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7010" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7008" CreationDate="2018-09-27T07:41:53.017" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I experienced that several times if my print temperature was too low. Then, the filament does not stick to the plate very well and prefers to stick to the nozzle which pulls it away. Solution is to increase the temperature by 5 to 10 degrees, at least for the first layers..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10847" LastActivityDate="2018-09-27T07:41:53.017" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7011" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6576" CreationDate="2018-09-27T07:53:20.543" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I usually print a test cube with different wall thicknesses and calculate the average deviation. This I use as tolerance. However, I do not believe that many belt driven cartesian printers can perform much better than +/- 0.1 to 0.25 mm along the XY-axis. Consequently, I would suggest to use something between 0.1 to 0.25 mm. If it is more than 0.5 mm you have an issue with the mechanics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10847" LastActivityDate="2018-09-27T07:53:20.543" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7012" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-09-27T16:14:44.003" Score="7" ViewCount="1102" Body="&lt;p&gt;I used to print with PLA and everything in my printer was calibrated. But I got a new type of filament called Poly Hybrid from a friend of mine. When I print a 20 mm cube, the x and y axes are fine but z axis in cube is about 18 mm. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I calibrate my printer z axis again for this new filament type? Because I couldn't find any option in Slic3r in filament tab to set layer height.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10642" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-09-27T16:39:20.757" LastActivityDate="2018-09-28T12:31:17.820" Title="20x20x20 calibration cube size change after switching filament" Tags="|filament|slic3r|calibration|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7014" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7012" CreationDate="2018-09-27T18:34:35.810" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Filament type should have nothing to do with the issues you are facing&lt;/strong&gt;. This is a mechanical issue or a slicing/scaling issue. The hotend should, if instructed to go to 20 mm height actually go to 20 mm (it did do that before!), it cannot &quot;lose&quot; 2 mm on the way up unless you have a lot of lost steps (e.g. too much load on the carriage pressing it down, but that seems pretty unlikely). Typical variations for Z are in the order of a few tenths of a mm for a properly dialed in printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please note that the Z axis is usually controlled by a leadscrew (&lt;em&gt;your printer type and brand is not known, but if you have a Prusa style printer or some sort of a cube you'll have a leadscrew, Delta's have belts&lt;/em&gt;), so once you dialed this in, the head will go to the instructed height. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Reasoning to your observations: If it was under-extrusion because of lower diameter filament, the last few layers should have been falling out of the hotend (considering the head goes to 20 mm and the print is 18 mm high). This is not the case; you have not described that kind of behavior. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The most likely problem is a &lt;strong&gt;slicing or scaling problem&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The answer to your question is therefore: &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;&quot;No you do not need to calibrate the Z height.&quot;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;. But when changing to another filament you &lt;em&gt;could&lt;/em&gt; calibrate the extruder for this new filament; if the diameter is not far off you do not need to do that, but you could if you are into details.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sub&gt;Preferably questions like these need to &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;include a picture of the print&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; and the &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;printer type&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;!&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-09-28T12:31:17.820" LastActivityDate="2018-09-28T12:31:17.820" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7015" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="885" CreationDate="2018-09-27T20:21:39.070" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I understand you marked at 120mm then tried to extrude 100mm and measured 37.66mm remaining.  Take the 120mm - 37.66mm (remaining)= 82.34mm (that was extruded (so you were 17.66mm short of your 100mm).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The formula I use is [New Setting=(Wanted Distance X old setting)/ Actual Distance].&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So [New Setting = (100 x Old Setting)/82.34.]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13071" LastActivityDate="2018-09-27T20:21:39.070" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7016" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7139" CreationDate="2018-09-27T23:54:55.047" Score="6" ViewCount="5850" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=107&amp;amp;cp_id=10724&amp;amp;cs_id=1072403&amp;amp;p_id=21711&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Monoprice Select Mini V2&lt;/a&gt; and I’ve recently been having issues with little strings that are thick and sturdy sticking off of models:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xUMyH.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Example of stringing&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xUMyH.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Example of stringing&quot; title=&quot;Example of stringing&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I used Ultimaker Cura v3.4.1 to slice this model: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2563909&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Basic Retraction test&lt;/a&gt; using &lt;a href=&quot;https://hatchbox3d.com/collections/pla/products/3d-pla-1kg1-75-blk&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Hatchbox Black PLA&lt;/a&gt; filament&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And the following settings:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Layer Height: 0.1313 mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wall Thickness 1.05 mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Infill: 22%&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Extruder Temp: 200 °C&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bed Temp: 55 °C&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Retraction Distance: 4 mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Retraction Speed: 40 mm/s&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Speed: 50 mm/s&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Z-Hop When Retracted: Off&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Supports: Off&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Adhesion: Brim&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I’d appreciate any advice on how to fix this problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13073" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-12-10T06:20:38.953" LastActivityDate="2019-12-10T06:20:38.953" Title="Monoprice Select Mini V2 retraction/stringing problem" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|retraction|monoprice-select-mini|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7017" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-09-28T02:54:33.793" Score="4" ViewCount="311" Body="&lt;p&gt;Using Simplyfy3D printing software I am not sure which printer mine is called in the list (or which substitute to use).&#xA;I have an &lt;a href=&quot;https://athorbot.com/collections/3d-printers/products/athorbot-brother-easy-assemble-diy-desktop-3d-printer-large-printing-size-300-300-300mm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Athorbot Brother 3D Printer&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the screen of the controller, it says &quot;Mendel Ready&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So any help with this would be greatly appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13074" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-09-28T11:28:50.410" LastActivityDate="2018-09-28T11:28:50.410" Title="Simplify3D setup for Athorbot Brother 3D Printer" Tags="|software|simplify3d|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2018-10-08T22:44:23.460" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7018" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7016" CreationDate="2018-09-28T06:38:00.540" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Monoprice Select Mini V2 uses a Bowden style extrusion system. Bowden extruders compress the filament in the tube where the gap between the filament and inner tube diameter allow for the filament to buckle slightly and compress causing a pressure build-up in the hotend. Without retraction this implies that the filament will start to ooze out of the hotend once you stop extruding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From your settings can be seen that you are using retraction. The question now arises whether you retract enough? Furthermore, this stringing can be reduced by setting the correct settings for e.g. print temperature, retraction, coasting, travel speed. It is up to you to find the correct settings; test print objects like calibration prints (like in the image you showed) help you with finding the correct settings. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Apparently, the retraction you use still allows for some filament to ooze out of the hotend as shown in your image. This means that prior to the travel move there is still some pressure left in the hotend. A parameter that reduced the pressure prior to the travel movement is called &quot;coasting&quot;; basically you define to stop extruding while the head is still completing the printing moves prior to the travel move. It is advised to explore this setting. Other options to investigate further include lowering filament print temperature or increase travel movement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2018-09-28T06:38:00.540" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7019" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-09-29T12:04:41.693" Score="3" ViewCount="1320" Body="&lt;p&gt;When modelling for 3D printing, can I distinguish somehow the type of infill in various areas of the model? Say there may be some areas in the model where I want 100% infill (maximum strength) but some areas where the infill can be less (maybe 25%).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am new to 3D printing, doing my first model (enclosure for electronics - camera module). Using tinkercad.com only so far. Places where 100% infill is wanted are usually walls of the case and &quot;threads&quot; for the bolts but I want to make the enclosure as stiff as possible as a whole so I am thinking about using some sparse infill in the &quot;free space&quot; inside of the enclosure (so that it does not break so easily when it falls to the ground etc). I just do not know how to define this within the model.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22" LastActivityDate="2018-09-29T17:18:48.507" Title="Using multiple infill types within one model" Tags="|3d-models|infill|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2018-09-29T15:46:38.213" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7020" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4452" CreationDate="2018-09-29T12:43:09.583" Score="4" Body="&lt;h3&gt;TL;DR&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;You need to have the version 2.x controller board (and the associated CR-10S firmware) to use the filament sensor&lt;/em&gt;. If you do not then you will need to upgrade your controller board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Board Comparison&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For an excellent breakdown of the boards, read &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.th3dstudio.com/knowledge-base/creality-cr-10-and-cr-10s-models-what-printer-do-you-have/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Creality CR-10 and CR-10S Models – What Printer do you have&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There appear to be two basic model versions of controller board, which use different firmware:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Controller board v1.1.2 (or v1.1.3 with additional filter capacitor) which uses &lt;strong&gt;CR-10 firmware&lt;/strong&gt;. These have a small Atmel ATmega1284P chip, and one Z-axis stepper connector;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Controller board v2.0 (or v2.1 with extra fan ports) which uses &lt;strong&gt;CR-10S firmware&lt;/strong&gt;. These have a large Atmel ATmega2560 chip, and two Z-axis stepper connectors.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See the section &lt;strong&gt;Board examples&lt;/strong&gt; at the bottom of this answer for a visual comparison of the two boards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;It is the &lt;em&gt;v2.x (CR-10S)&lt;/em&gt; board that has the filament detector&lt;/strong&gt;, which uses the X+ endstop connector:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Mogcx.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;v2.x CR-10S controller board&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Mogcx.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;v2.x CR-10S controller board&quot; title=&quot;v2.x CR-10S controller board&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To quote part of the page:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please make sure you know what printer you have. There are 8 DIFFERENT models from Creality. There are 2 different boards across these models. The easiest way to identify what one you have is if it has a filament sensor or not. If it does then you have a CR-10S machine. If it does not then it is a CR-10.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just because you have a CR-10 S4 or CR-10 S5 that does NOT make it a CR-10S.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The S4 and S5 sizes come available with either board versions. Again the main way to tell is if you have a filament sensor from Creality or not. Whether you have Dual Z or not does NOT matter. What matters is what board is in the enclosure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Typically every CR-10S board came with a filament sensor. So if you don’t have a filament sensor then it is the CR-10 and you need use the CR-10 firmware. However we have seen some CR-10 Mini machines ship with CR-10S boards. Use the below pictures of the boards that are in the wild to identify what model you have. The important thing is to use the correct firmware for the board that is in your machine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Separate upgrade&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With respect to the first question, you would be best off contacting Creality directly, via their customer support, to see if the sensor is available separately. This would probably make for the least painful method of implementing the filament sensor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively, there is this kit, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.3dprintersbay.com/creality-cr-10s-upgrade-kit&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Creality CR-10S Upgrade Kit&lt;/a&gt;, for $120:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Best Upgrade Kit for your Creality CR-10 3D Printer contains Dual Z axis for Stability in 3D Prints &amp;amp; Filament Monitoring Alarm Protection (Sensor) which alerts you when the filament has ran out or broken for Smart 3D Printing&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kNXlN.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Creality CR-10S Upgrade Kit&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kNXlN.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Creality CR-10S Upgrade Kit&quot; title=&quot;Creality CR-10S Upgrade Kit&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There seems to be a dual-Z option, for an extra $80&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Hacked solution&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the second question, the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.amazon.co.uk/XCSOURCE-Printer-Filament-Detection-TE720/dp/B06ZZ5YXM6&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;XCSOURCE 1.75mm 3D Printer Filament Detection Sensor Module Filament Run Out Pause Monitor for 3D Printer DIY Kit TE720&lt;/a&gt;,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NGUct.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Filament detector&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NGUct.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Filament detector&quot; title=&quot;Filament detector&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;the instructions state that it is designed principally for Lerdge control boards:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Instruction:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When you are using a Lerdge brand motherboard: The green light on the motherboard will turn off when the filament runs out, the&#xA;motherboard will stop printing until you supplement the filament and&#xA;continue printing. (Please connect to the M-sensor Interface)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When you are using other brand motherboard: The Detection Module uses the level transition detection method. While there still have&#xA;filament in the module, the detection port shows as high level; when&#xA;there is no filament in the module, the detection port will transform&#xA;to low level as &amp;quot;Filament Run Out Command&amp;quot; which will stop the&#xA;printing, so you will have time to supplement the filament and&#xA;continue printing.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, it is not particularly clear as to whether it will work with your board - for it to do so, your board would need to have:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A compatible input (i.e. X+ endstop);&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The compatible firmware (CR-10S), and;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use compatible logic levels (i.e. active &lt;code&gt;LOW&lt;/code&gt; to shutdown printing).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If not, then given &lt;em&gt;point #2&lt;/em&gt;, it would appear to require additional external logic, or microcontroller, to sense the &lt;em&gt;transition to &lt;code&gt;LOW&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/em&gt; and then shutdown the printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, this chap on Thingiverse, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2480901&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Cr-10 Filament Sensor Bracket &amp;amp; Tutorial&lt;/a&gt;, states that they bought a sensor off eBay, that looks &lt;em&gt;similar&lt;/em&gt;, and they provide a printable mount and instructions on how to use it with a CR-10. However, it is not a standalone affair as shown in the CR-10 S4 - because an additional Raspberry Pi and OctoPrint is required.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To use this particular sensor with your board, you would need to:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;See if which controller board you have - either the CR-10 &lt;em&gt;or&lt;/em&gt; the CR-10S compatible board (see &lt;strong&gt;Board Comparison&lt;/strong&gt; above). If it is the CR-10S therefore it has the compatible input (X+ endstop), and firmware, needed for the filament sensor,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Enable the use of the sensor, if necessary, in the firmware (either by the UI if possible or uploading new firmware) and;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Check whether the CR-10 controller board uses &lt;em&gt;active &lt;code&gt;LOW&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/em&gt; to detect a lack of filament (or again, this may be a UI, or firmware, setting)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could test this last point yourself, by applying a &lt;code&gt;LOW&lt;/code&gt; level voltage (i.e. grounding) to X+ endstop input on the control board (after checking the UI/firmware for appropriate settings), and see if that halts/pauses the print. If not, try a &lt;code&gt;HIGH&lt;/code&gt; level (5 V). If it is active &lt;code&gt;HIGH&lt;/code&gt; then you simply need to use an inverter (i.e. 4069), between the sensor and the X+ endstop connector.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Board examples&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are two principle board options, v1.x and v2.x, the latter has dual Z stepper motor connectors and the former does not .For example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Version 1.x, for CR-10 firmware - &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.amazon.co.uk/Motherboard-Controller-Creality-Board12V-Mainboard/dp/B075SCHYL9&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Motherboard Controller DIY Creality 3D® CR-10 / CR-10S 3D Printer CR-10 Upgrade Control Board12V (CR-10S Mainboard)&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DDV5q.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;v1.x Controller with single Z connector&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DDV5q.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;v1.x Controller with single Z connector&quot; title=&quot;v1.x Controller with single Z connector&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Version 2.x (2.1 in this case) with Dual Z stepper connectors, for CR-10S firmware -  &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.amazon.co.uk/Luxnwatts-Replacement-Controller-Motherboard-Creality/dp/B076XKJBHP&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Luxnwatts CR-10S Mainboard Replacement Controller Board Upgrade V2.1 Motherboard For Creality S4 S5 3D Printer&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tJh6U.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;v2.x Controller with dual Z connector&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tJh6U.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;v2.x Controller with dual Z connector&quot; title=&quot;v2.x Controller with dual Z connector&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4762" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:29:41.667" LastActivityDate="2018-09-30T08:17:02.837" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7021" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7019" CreationDate="2018-09-29T14:44:35.237" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found out I misunderstood some principles of designing/modelling for 3D printing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I designed my object for 100% infill which is not really necessary. It turned out that one does not mostly have to take care of the infill % and just model the object for example as solid 3D cube and the printing service will then take care of it to print well, hopefully slicing it well for printing and choosing the correct infill percentage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So instead of designing a &quot;hollow&quot; cube with 3mm thick walls filled with 100% infill and free space inside, one can design a solid cube and the printing service will then print it &quot;somehow&quot; - they may make the walls only 1 mm thick but fill the inside of the cube with 10% infill which may work just fine for final object stiffness etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22" LastEditorUserId="22" LastEditDate="2018-09-29T17:18:48.507" LastActivityDate="2018-09-29T17:18:48.507" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7022" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7019" CreationDate="2018-09-29T15:45:16.013" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;To achieve additional localised stiffness, you can also insert small voids (gaps) inside the model. These become double thickness walls once sliced and can be used to support things like screw holes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See the 'negative' parts used with a cube, and the sliced result here:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eULwV.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eULwV.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/z7uzX.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/z7uzX.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4927" LastEditorUserId="4927" LastEditDate="2018-09-29T15:52:41.817" LastActivityDate="2018-09-29T15:52:41.817" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7023" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7029" CreationDate="2018-09-29T16:11:30.780" Score="1" ViewCount="73" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use blue 3M Painter's tape to help with bed adhesion on my heated bed. Are there any tell tale signs which would lead me to believe I need to change the tape out?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For reference, I haven't been printing all that much, so the tape has been on there for some time. I took a look at it today and see there are some bubbles in the tape in the places where the last print I did was laid down. It appears the tape has lost some adhesion to the bed. I can run my fingers over it and it will re-stick to the bed, but is that good enough? (Obviously I'd re-clean the tape surface with isopropyl before I'd use it again, so not an issue there.) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The last thing I want to do is waste time and materials printing when I can be more proactive, so the real question here is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What signs might the tape be giving me it's time to change it out?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11242" LastActivityDate="2018-09-30T17:46:26.763" Title="Tell tale signs bed tape has given up the ghost" Tags="|adhesion|maintenance|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7024" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7028" CreationDate="2018-09-29T20:44:29.700" Score="5" ViewCount="1483" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm interested in 3D printing toy action figures, but what I don't quite know how the joints should be designed to allow flexibility. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I could imagine maybe something like a screw and nut for the arms and legs that are separated with a hole in the middle that can join them, but I don't know how to get a wider range of motion on shoulders and hips. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13084" LastActivityDate="2018-09-30T15:11:45.200" Title="What is the best method of printing joints for action figures?" Tags="|3d-design|mechanics|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7025" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7216" CreationDate="2018-09-29T23:42:49.567" Score="10" ViewCount="6975" Body="&lt;p&gt;How can I vary the infill percentage for different layer heights of my model?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Context: The bottom part of my model needs about 20% infill.  The geometry of the top part of the model (mostly cones of various sizes) prints well with 0% infill and is of course a lot faster to print if I can specify this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6851" LastEditorUserId="6851" LastEditDate="2018-10-21T04:23:25.983" LastActivityDate="2018-10-21T04:23:25.983" Title="slic3r: Can I vary the infill percentage for different heights of my model?" Tags="|slicing|slic3r|infill|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7026" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7025" CreationDate="2018-09-30T07:39:45.567" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Your question is very similar to &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6522/different-infill-in-the-same-part&quot;&gt;Different infill in the same part&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/7019/using-multiple-infill-types-within-one-model&quot;&gt;Using multiple infill types within one model [duplicate]&lt;/a&gt;. The difference is that you specifically ask for Slic3r and a variation in layer height infill percentage.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Actually &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/6523/5740&quot;&gt;this answer&lt;/a&gt; describes using &quot;helper volumes&quot; in Ultimaker Cura to set different properties for certain parts of the model &lt;em&gt;(&lt;strong&gt;UPDATE&lt;/strong&gt;: that answer now includes also Slic3r instructions)&lt;/em&gt;, but it appears that this answer is very much applicable to Slic3r also. Please read &lt;a href=&quot;http://slic3r.org/blog/modifier-meshes&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; posting. Quoting from the reference:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Finally, I fired Slic3r up and loaded the main part, then clicked on&#xA;  Settings... and then hit Load modifier... I loaded the new volume as a&#xA;  modifier mesh and I applied 100% solid infill...&#xA;  &lt;br&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Secondly, &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/6527/5740&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; answer where 2 different infill percentage sliced models are manually combined at a certain height may also work for you (this is a perfect valid solution for Slic3r, but requires some editing skills).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically, although you request for a solution for a slicer other than already described in other questions, boils down to a similar answer, the only difference is the implementation in Slic3r is called differently. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To do this in &lt;strong&gt;Slic3r&lt;/strong&gt; see &lt;a href=&quot;http://manual.slic3r.org/advanced/modifier-mesh&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this reference&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The blog describes the use of a simple volume (the green volume loaded from an STL file). After loading:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Right-clicking on the main part brought up the object settings menu.&#xA;  From there, clicking &quot;Load Modifier&quot; and selecting the previously&#xA;  saved model adds it to the part as a modifier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The green &quot;+&quot; was selected and &quot;Fill Density&quot; was added to modifier&#xA;  list and set to 100%.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/llvIG.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/llvIG.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Part with box for alternative mesh infill&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EslBH.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EslBH.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;This shows that the functionality in Slic3r is very similar to the functionality in Ultimaker Cura.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-10-02T21:56:20.587" LastActivityDate="2018-10-02T21:56:20.587" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7027" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7030" CreationDate="2018-09-30T10:30:51.530" Score="3" ViewCount="833" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought my Anet A8 less than 2 weeks ago. The setup went fine. In the first 1 week, I printed a lot, and the quality was really good. Now, the quality of prints is really bad. The infill is terrible, like little individual sticks and there are strands of PLA attached to the object(see picture). My Cura settings are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;layer height: 0.15 mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;infill: 70 %&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;infill pattern: grid&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;printing temperature: 205 &amp;deg;C&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;bed temperature: 55 &amp;deg;C&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;print speed:35 mm/s (I reduced it from 60 to 35 thinking it might fix the issue, but no luck)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any help would greatly be appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lowj3.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lowj3.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;After cutting a lot of the strands off&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13090" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-09-30T19:26:50.187" LastActivityDate="2018-10-01T04:46:09.523" Title="Anet A8 prints not good" Tags="|print-quality|diy-3d-printer|anet-a8|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7028" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7024" CreationDate="2018-09-30T15:11:45.200" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;(NOTE: Converting comments to an answer.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An interference fit would probably work. There are a couple of styles I can think of which would do. Here are some ideas from thingiverse.com which may work for your needs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5lZZd.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5lZZd.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(image taken from &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:281748&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this design&lt;/a&gt; by OgoSport)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With this style of ball/socket, you'd have very good articulation. More than enough movement to allow for a posable action figure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another idea from thingiverse.com is this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mIY9D.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mIY9D.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(image from &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1028066&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this design&lt;/a&gt; by NEMO_from_saturn)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The idea behind this style of joint is to insert it into each part (part fits over the end). This is premade and would be easy to utilize. The thing about this is, they are covered by the licensing involved with patterns found on thingiverse. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As with anything printed or mechanical, it will wear over time. You won't ever get &lt;em&gt;anything&lt;/em&gt; which doesn't wear. It's just a fact of how it works. Some printed filaments will have better wear properties than others, like ABS, NylonX (polyamide with chopped carbon fiber strands), nylon, PET (PETG/PETT), or polypropylene (this is not all inclusive). Each filament has its own printing properties and idiosyncrasies, so pay attention to what needs to be done to print with them. This doesn't mean all of the parts need to be printed out of this material, but rather if using a joint (like the second image), you could print it out of the better wear material and print the rest out of filament which is cheaper and is easier to work with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11242" LastActivityDate="2018-09-30T15:11:45.200" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7029" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7023" CreationDate="2018-09-30T17:46:26.763" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Obviously, if the tape is torn or gouged in area that you intend to print on, you will need to replace it to have a good surface. If the damage is well clear of your first layer and will not risk snagging on printer mechanisms during movement, you may disregard it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can't really tell you how much bubbling is acceptable. If your prints still come out in with an acceptable quality, then it's OK. If it causes defects that you don't accept, or failed prints due to a loss of adhesion, then it's not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I started printing, I used painters tape, and would change it every few prints. To be honest, I was not very careful about protecting the tape when removing a print, and would often damage it. I also often found it easier to just peel the tape from the print bed as a way to remove a print. I don't even think I finished a single roll of tape before I eventually switched to glass/hairspray.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I never used isopropyl or other things to clean it between prints. If you are concerned with cost and waste, I would think this would be even more than simply changing the tape frequently.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5704" LastActivityDate="2018-09-30T17:46:26.763" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7030" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7027" CreationDate="2018-09-30T19:42:56.227" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;This effect you see is called stringing. Stringing can be reduced by changing any or a combination of the following slicer settings:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;lowering hot-end temperature, (less heat means less heat input so less runny filament oozing out), &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;increasing travel speed, (increase in travel speed reduces the time to move to another point implying less filament oozing),&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;retraction, (increased filament retraction reduces the pressure build-up in the hot-end decreasing the filament oozing)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;increasing coasting length (coasting means that you stop extruding filament prior to a move when the head is still printing, this is explained by the pressure build-up in the hot-end; ideally you set the coasting length as such that all the material that is pressed out as a result of the pressure build-up is extruded just before the head moves/travels to another location), &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;print part cooling, (see &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6878/why-does-my-part-cooling-fan-cause-stringing/6933#6933&quot;&gt;this topic&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In order to find the correct settings you will need to print so called calibration test prints. There are a lot to find on Thingiverse, just search for &quot;stringing&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your print temperature may be a bit high, but some PLA filament brands require that, I don't know if that is the case with your filament, but you could start try lowering that by 5 &amp;deg;C a time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-10-01T04:46:09.523" LastActivityDate="2018-10-01T04:46:09.523" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7031" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4326" CreationDate="2018-09-30T20:50:34.093" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not quite the answer to the question but closely related, so I venture. I use ordinary wool thread to insulate the hot end. I just wrap it carefully so it is covered everywhere. Very low cost, very effective. Wool can handle even the hottest extrusion temperatures easily.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13097" LastActivityDate="2018-09-30T20:50:34.093" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7032" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7002" CreationDate="2018-09-30T21:29:44.643" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Oscar's &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/7002/corexy-calibration-issue#7003&quot;&gt;answer&lt;/a&gt; is the correct solution to this issue. My printer was printing skewed and there is a built in correction for this in Marlin. Unfortunately the X5S does not have a boot loader and I don't have an ISP programmer (yet), so I am unable to re-flash my board at the moment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the mean time I created a software fix for this issue. I used a script to add a &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Affine_transformation#Image_transformation&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Affine Shear Transformation&lt;/a&gt; to the stl file. This adds a reverse skew to the model so the print comes out (closer to) square. Basically read all the points from the triangle mesh (STL file), apply XY shear transformation preserving Z, re-save the STL.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11097" LastEditorUserId="11097" LastEditDate="2018-09-30T21:33:58.110" LastActivityDate="2018-09-30T21:33:58.110" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7033" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4624" CreationDate="2018-09-30T22:40:15.030" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;From your &lt;code&gt;configuration.h&lt;/code&gt; file you see that (in line 643):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#define MANUAL_HOME_POSITIONS&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;is &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; commented out, there is no &lt;code&gt;//&lt;/code&gt; in front, so this means that manual homing with accompanying coordinates &lt;em&gt;is&lt;/em&gt; enabled. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This should &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; be enabled, as this setting is used by Delta printers only. This may cause the problems you experience as there may be some sort of a conflict between manual and auto positioning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-10-01T05:29:07.533" LastActivityDate="2018-10-01T05:29:07.533" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7034" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-10-01T06:28:20.407" Score="6" ViewCount="5124" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have enabled auto bed leveling on my 3D printer. I have used a 6-36 V inductive sensor with a 7805 voltage regulator running the sensor at 10.78 V.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am using Marlin 1.1.9. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.dropbox.com/s/pusa3zd330frf9h/Configuration.h?dl=0&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;This&lt;/a&gt; is my configuration file for Marlin firmware. I used &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G-TwWfUzXpc&amp;amp;feature=youtu.be&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;this video&lt;/a&gt; for marlin setup.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have done a voltage regulator setup by using &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=stiwsfQafa8&amp;amp;t=418s&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;this video&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have place an Aluminium plate with insulated copper wire. (I also tried an Iron plate). After Setting this I use Pronterface to control the printer. While homing command is given the XY axis gets home and Z axis moves downwards and doesn't stops even the Light in the sensor gets ON. &lt;a href=&quot;https://drive.google.com/file/d/1SGlPupZy9V4qQhdSukpNki6tHTX9rzhh/view?usp=drivesdk&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;This video I made&lt;/a&gt; shows that it does not stop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And also once the Zmin gets TRIGGERED, it is always TRIGGERED. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After I enabled SAFE_HOMING, the XY axis comes to the centre of the printer. And Z axis goes down again without stopping.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please help me in this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12765" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-10-01T12:58:37.157" LastActivityDate="2020-01-05T22:32:50.817" Title="Issues with Auto Bed Leveling" Tags="|marlin|diy-3d-printer|bed-leveling|inductive-sensor|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7035" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4621" CreationDate="2018-10-01T06:48:44.513" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Getting that first layer to stick is sometimes pretty hard, you just need to find a good combination of settings. Clearly your filament does not stick too well as the brim comes off after been laid down after a while.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Parameters that affect adhesion are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bed temperature; a temperature close to the glass temperature is favorable as the filament is soft at that temperature, the stresses are low due to this softness and the smaller temperature difference. &lt;em&gt;You already tried to increase bed temperature: 50 - 60 &amp;deg;C should be fine for PLA, there is no need to go higher than 60 &amp;deg;C&lt;/em&gt;,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hotend temperature; the temperature of the filament deposition could be increased for the initial layer, usually a 5 &amp;deg;C increase over the standard temperature should be enough,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Overextrusion; a small over-extrusion on the first layer (filament flow scale factor larger than 100 %) could sometimes help to better adhere the first layer, but usually this means that the nozzle to bed distance is too large,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Correct leveling and correct nozzle to bed distance; level the bed as good as possible or scan the bed and use mesh leveling if the build platform does not have a uniform (flat) shape, also make sure the distance between the nozzle is correct: too small or too big cause the filament not to stick very well.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Debris in nozzle; debris in nozzle can cause non-uniform extrusion, cleaning the nozzle with the atomic method (heating up the nozzle, inserting filament, cooling down the nozzle and finally yanking out the filament cleaning all the cooked stuff inside),&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cleanness of the bed; make sure the bed is not greasy,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tack of the bed; the use of a PVA based substance on the bed like e.g. gluestick, hairspray or specific printer sprays like 3DLAC increase the bed adhesion considerably,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bed preparation; sanding the bed to roughen the platform, using tape, etc. are all tricks to get the filament to stick better.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Either one of the suggested parameters or a selection of these are the answer to your question, just figure out what works best for your printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2018-10-01T06:48:44.513" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7036" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7034" CreationDate="2018-10-01T07:07:58.113" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your problem is that the hotend carriage does not stop when the sensor triggers. I assume you mean &lt;em&gt;&quot;on homing&quot;&lt;/em&gt;, not &lt;em&gt;&quot;while printing&quot;&lt;/em&gt; &lt;em&gt;(UPDATE: after watching the video it is confirmed that it is &quot;on homing&quot;)&lt;/em&gt;. &lt;strong&gt;First&lt;/strong&gt;, the working and this difference is explained. &lt;strong&gt;Thereafter&lt;/strong&gt; your configuration file is assessed and typical errors or inconsistencies are reported. Note that assassing an existing configuration file is more work than for you to start over taking the consideration below into account. Also look into &lt;a href=&quot;/a/7071/5740&quot;&gt;this answer&lt;/a&gt; which describes what you need to do starting from a clean configuration file.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Note:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Why not test if the sensor works at higher Z values by using a metal screwdriver to test if the head stops, then you do not run into the bed (with way less chance to damage your printer). From the video you can see that the sensor triggers, does the signal also gets registered by the printer board? With &lt;a href=&quot;http://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M119.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;code&gt;M119&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/a&gt; you test the endstop status of all endstops.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Auto bed leveling theory&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;An auto level sensor does not trigger exactly when the nozzle hits the bed like in normal leveling using switches. The sensor is meant to detect the bed &lt;strong&gt;before&lt;/strong&gt; the nozzle touches the bed. It is the offset that you define with command &lt;code&gt;M851&lt;/code&gt; e.g. &lt;code&gt;M851 Z-1.85&lt;/code&gt; that determines the correct offset between sensor trigger point and the nozzle. After homing &lt;code&gt;G28&lt;/code&gt; and auto bed leveling &lt;code&gt;G29&lt;/code&gt;, the nozzle needs to get under the sensor trigger point (e.g. in the example above it is then still 1.85 mm away from the platform) so while &lt;strong&gt;printing&lt;/strong&gt; it is perfectly fine that the sensor stays triggered until printing height gets above 1.85 mm. This gives an answer why you see the head go past the trigger point when printing, when homing or leveling that should not happen. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Configuration file observations&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;From your configuration can be seen that&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;//#define Z_SAFE_HOMING&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;is not enabled, this is advised to enable. This is important, but not the complete solution. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, you have not defined the auto leveling area by setting the boundaries for probing (where the probe can reach). In your config you will find disabled constants for (see also &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/6874/5740&quot;&gt;this answer&lt;/a&gt; or question: &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;/q/8153/&quot;&gt;How to set Z-probe boundary limits in firmware when using automatic bed leveling?&lt;/a&gt;&quot;):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;//#define LEFT_PROBE_BED_POSITION MIN_PROBE_EDGE&#xA;//#define RIGHT_PROBE_BED_POSITION (X_BED_SIZE - MIN_PROBE_EDGE)&#xA;//#define FRONT_PROBE_BED_POSITION MIN_PROBE_EDGE&#xA;//#define BACK_PROBE_BED_POSITION (Y_BED_SIZE - MIN_PROBE_EDGE)&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You only have defined a Y sensor offset in your configuration :&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#define Y_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER 43 &#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;but the video and the comments say otherwise, you should therefore should have set: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#define X_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER 43 &#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;so e.g. the following could work (depending on the offset from limit switch position to printer origin):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#define LEFT_PROBE_BED_POSITION MIN_PROBE_EDGE&#xA;#define RIGHT_PROBE_BED_POSITION (X_BED_SIZE - MIN_PROBE_EDGE)&#xA;#define FRONT_PROBE_BED_POSITION MIN_PROBE_EDGE + Y_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER&#xA;#define BACK_PROBE_BED_POSITION (Y_BED_SIZE - MIN_PROBE_EDGE)&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another part in your configuration that need further inspection is your offset from limit switch position (when homing) to printer origin; you have:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#define X_MIN_POS 0&#xA;#define Y_MIN_POS 0&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is very unlikely, but possible, it means as is that the X=0 and Y=0 is exactly on the limit switches for X and Y. Usually this is not the case and you see negative values for these constants.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All-in-all, your configuration file has a lot of problems which need to be fixed. To solve your problem you need to read into configuring Marlin. Once you got the printer working fine you progress to an ABL sensor and make the correct settings in the configuration by using the hints above.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-01-05T22:32:50.817" LastActivityDate="2020-01-05T22:32:50.817" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7037" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7040" CreationDate="2018-10-01T12:21:30.383" Score="38" ViewCount="51909" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've seen a few print time-lapse videos lately which use gyroid infill: wavy lines, which deform across layers so that the waves end up alternating between the two axes. Other than making the time-lapse videos look much cooler, what are the benefits of this infill style compared to the more common hatching or cross-hatching?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13100" LastActivityDate="2019-08-04T17:02:44.457" Title="What are the advantages of gyroid infill?" Tags="|infill|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7038" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7039" CreationDate="2018-10-01T12:42:29.440" Score="5" ViewCount="1054" Body="&lt;p&gt;When printing several objects, I recently encountered a problem that arises when the structure in itself is relatively thin or the support towers have a small surface: the printhead would in motion tend to knock one or more over as it traveled or catch at them and create layer shift.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I avoid collisions with the already printed parts of a layer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastActivityDate="2019-06-27T19:18:38.060" Title="How to avoid collisions with already printed objects?" Tags="|print-quality|slicing|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7039" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7038" CreationDate="2018-10-01T12:42:29.440" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The problem was twofold:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lack of bed adhesion due to the small contact surface&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;motion into the already printed objects.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;em&gt;quick and dirty&lt;/em&gt; way was to change two settings:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Print with a small (3 mm) brim to stick the supports to the print and provide more surface. Other materials than PLA may need considerably more brim!&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Activate Z-Hop to force the nozzle to lift over the print when traveling&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These tricks don't solve issues with very thin structures or in all cases. In those cases, it can be mandatory to increase the structure's (support) thickness or change the alignment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2019-03-06T14:49:04.863" LastActivityDate="2019-03-06T14:49:04.863" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7040" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7037" CreationDate="2018-10-01T14:28:41.490" Score="35" Body="&lt;p&gt;From &lt;a href=&quot;https://mattshub.com/2018/03/15/gyroid-infill/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;this reference&lt;/a&gt; you can read that:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A gyroid is a naturally occurring structure which be found in&#xA;  butterfly wings and even within membranes inside cells. In 2017, MIT&#xA;  researchers discovered that when graphene was shaped into a gyroid&#xA;  structure, it had exceptional strength properties at low densities.&#xA;  They then discovered however, that the crucial aspect of this was&#xA;  actually the gyroid structure itself, and that other materials such as&#xA;  plastic could benefit from this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is assumed that this type of infill has better properties against failure than the normal types of infill we know.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A test conducted by an author named Martin is found &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.cartesiancreations.com.au/gyroid-infill-tests/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;. He printed test specimen and subjected them to bending to test the resistance against shear stress.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jpMc8.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jpMc8.png&quot; alt=&quot;Test details&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the figure can be concluded that the gyroid infill has a better resistance against bending for a lower weight. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The advantages of gyroid infill over the tested infill types are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;high shear strength, and &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;low weight (so less filament needed).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On top of these advantages Gyroid infill prints relatively fast with respect to some other infill types and is close to &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Isotropy&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;isotropic&lt;/a&gt; (i.e. uniform in all orientations), meaning that is very suitable for flexible prints.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-07-27T23:40:08.040" LastActivityDate="2019-07-27T23:40:08.040" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7041" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7044" CreationDate="2018-10-01T17:30:20.100" Score="5" ViewCount="2488" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking at scanning in a statue on my pond and making a print of it. I'm wondering if PETG will fade and how fast. I'm thinking of using white or maybe a bone color if possible. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If PETG fades kinda fast, what material should I use? Keep in mind this will deal with all weather types, full sun, and it will have water coming out of it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've been 3D printing for a bit, but I never made anything to stay outside for looks. I know PETG is pretty good at water, and I think it's stronger than ABS when it comes to weather. But I'm in NC, and I even lived in FL at a point. Shockingly, I found the sound in NC can bleach wood in a matter of days to weeks in the mid of summer where it might take all summer in FL. So I'm worried what I might make will get that yellow fade look that plastic does in the sun.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13104" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-10-02T08:28:07.303" LastActivityDate="2018-10-02T08:28:07.303" Title="Does PETG fade in the sun?" Tags="|petg|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7042" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-10-01T22:36:29.540" Score="4" ViewCount="631" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a concept that's roughly 18&quot;x30&quot; (about 457x762 mm), and I just realized that the Makerbot and similar printers only allow dimensions around the size of a piece of paper. What are other options? Are there large 3D printers I just don't know about? I looked up TMC injection mold, but couldn't find anything on size (most links go to PDFs with printer images). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is injection even in the same &quot;world&quot; as 3D..? Sorry for confusing the two.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13106" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-10-02T08:48:56.873" LastActivityDate="2018-10-16T05:26:12.600" Title="How can I have a large 3D printed object?" Tags="|print-quality|3d-design|cad|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7043" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7042" CreationDate="2018-10-01T23:37:01.193" Score="4" Body="&lt;h1&gt;Yes&lt;sup&gt;If you have the money&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Either read &lt;a href=&quot;https://all3dp.com/1/best-large-3d-printer-large-format-scale-3d-printers/#section-best-large-3d-printers-under-1000&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; or look at the ones I plucked out of that list to show you:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First of all, 3D printers on FDM basis can become quite large, if you pay extra. And the price goes up really fast as the dimensions grow because the demands on stability grow exponentially.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Larger Printers?&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One example of a &amp;quot;scaling&amp;quot; printer family is the CR-10: The baseline CR-10 is about 300x300x400 mm, so about 12x12x16 inch for 400\$. Not enough? 400x400x400 on the CR-10 S4 for ca 760\$. 500x500x500 on the CR-10 S5 for 900\$. That's 20 inch in all directions. But that's still not enough, isn't it? Well, if you need to go larger, you need to go professional...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Going Big!&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Well, there are printers like the gCreate gMax 1.5 XT+ (406x406x533 mm) for a mere 3000\$. That's enough, isn't it? Well, we can even go &lt;em&gt;bigger&lt;/em&gt;: 610x610x610 mm for a mere 3500\$ on the Modix Big 60.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Still not satisfied? Industrial machines can go even larger! A BigRep Studio for the &lt;em&gt;little&lt;/em&gt; price of 50000\$ could achieve 500x1000x500 mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Even more? Go Parametric!&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As amra mentioned, the &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hangprinter&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Hangpringer&lt;/a&gt; project of printers has no &amp;quot;set&amp;quot; build size, but you will have to provide a build platform of fitting size and a room it can work in undisturbed and with filament supply ready... just... bring a ladder? And be wary of people tripping over wires... and somehow find a ginormous, evenly heated bed somewhere...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Ways around&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Assembly&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That is a little overkill, isn't it? Well, the first thing you need to remember when 3D printing is: unless you make a functional part that has to have certain dimensions, feel free to scale it down if it is just for visuals. Then, you can assemble prints. Like, take a smaller printer and print the object in halves or quarters. Then glue it back together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Order&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You don't want or can't assemble the part? Well, there are printing services out there that have these larger scale printers I mentioned (or at least similar ones) that offer to make your parts for you and then ship them to you. Usually, that is much more cost effective than buying one of these ginormous printers yourself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:29:41.667" LastActivityDate="2018-10-16T05:26:12.600" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7044" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7041" CreationDate="2018-10-01T23:52:07.013" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;tl dr:&lt;/strong&gt; For the most part, yes it should be color fast in the sun. It should be good for outdoor use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.makershop3d.com/282-filament-outdoor-use&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;This website&lt;/a&gt; claims the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Filament materials ... for outdoor use include ASA and PETG that are perfect for use in extreme conditions without changing shape or appearance. Printed pieces do not change colour either with the sun's UV rays and do not take on a yellowish appearance as does ABS, for example.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please realize, this is partially an advertisement (and no, I have no affiliation). What it boils down to is, PETG and ASA are going to be better for outdoor use, but every brand of each is going to be a little different in how well it reacts to the elements. Without advertising on the site, you'd need to do a little investigating on your own, with the possibility of testing different brands to come up with what you believe is the best. Beyond that, it's just an opinion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I doubt any filament, no matter what it is made of, is going to be perfectly colorfast in the sun. The sun is a harsh beast. It &lt;em&gt;will&lt;/em&gt; bleach a printed object over time. Some colors are going to be more susceptible than others, especially red. This is due to the color of the sun. Again, some filaments are going to be better than others, but I'd not expect &lt;em&gt;any&lt;/em&gt; filament to be perfect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11242" LastActivityDate="2018-10-01T23:52:07.013" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7045" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2018-10-02T06:11:34.033" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Alunar M508 is a DIY kit based on the popular Prusa i3 design manufatured by Shenzhen Huibao Trading Technology Co., Ltd. This is a low-cost printer that uses a sliding bed for the Y direction and a portal for X-Z movement of the hotend. The printer frame is made from piano-black laser-cut acrylic. It is equipped with a heated build platform (heat bed) and the hotend can reach about 240 °C to support a variety of materials like PLA, ABS and PETG.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More details &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.alunar.net/m508-self-assembly-3d-printer.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: Google marks the alunar.net website as &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/interstitial?url=http://www.alunar.net/m508-self-assembly-3d-printer.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;unsafe&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="150" LastEditDate="2018-10-25T11:37:56.437" LastActivityDate="2018-10-25T11:37:56.437" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7046" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2018-10-02T06:11:34.033" Score="0" Body="This tag should be used for specific questions about specific issues involving the Alunar M508 Prusa i3 3D printer." OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-10-03T06:11:52.927" LastActivityDate="2018-10-03T06:11:52.927" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7047" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2018-10-02T06:27:41.840" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;When a system or process suddenly stops working, following a methodical and logical process, to identify the source of the problem, is needed. This process often involves elimination of possible causes. When made sure that certain parts or procedures work the next part in the process can be checked until the source is identified. Often, troubleshooter guides can assist in this process. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is also advised to make a demonstrator that focuses on the problem to make it easier to communicate with others.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-10-02T06:27:41.840" LastActivityDate="2018-10-02T06:27:41.840" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7048" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2018-10-02T06:27:41.840" Score="0" Body="Use this tag when a logical or systematic search for the source of a problem in order to solve it is requested." OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-10-02T06:27:41.840" LastActivityDate="2018-10-02T06:27:41.840" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7049" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2018-10-02T06:37:44.520" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The process of supplying air flow to and removing air flow from an enclosed space with or without the use of a mechanical system (e.g. a fan) is called ventilation. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When removed air is cleaned from particulates this is referred to as filtration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-10-02T06:37:44.520" LastActivityDate="2018-10-02T06:37:44.520" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7050" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2018-10-02T06:37:44.520" Score="0" Body="Use this tag for questions on ventilation and filtration of spaces (e.g. enclosed build space or room ventilation)." OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-10-02T06:37:44.520" LastActivityDate="2018-10-02T06:37:44.520" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7051" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2018-10-02T06:44:07.860" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Repair includes a variety of actions that fall in the category maintenance (corrective) that e.g. involve functional checks, servicing, fixing or replacing of necessary devices, equipment, machinery, etc. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-10-02T06:44:07.860" LastActivityDate="2018-10-02T06:44:07.860" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7052" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2018-10-02T06:44:07.860" Score="0" Body="Use this tag to indicate the actions or activities to undertake to fix an item or a process." OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-10-02T06:44:07.860" LastActivityDate="2018-10-02T06:44:07.860" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7053" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2018-10-02T06:49:06.387" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cost is defined as a monetary value that either has been added up to produce a product or a service. There is a difference in the cost of producing an item or a service and the value that is paid by the end-user to acquire that product or service.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-10-02T06:49:06.387" LastActivityDate="2018-10-02T06:49:06.387" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7054" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2018-10-02T06:49:06.387" Score="0" Body="Use this tag for questions about the value of acquisition or repair of a certain object or process.&#xD;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-10-02T06:49:06.387" LastActivityDate="2018-10-02T06:49:06.387" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7055" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2018-10-02T06:59:38.473" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Tronxy X3 is a printer of the X Series of FDM 3D printers manufactured by the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.tronxy.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Shenzhen Tronxy Technology Co., Ltd&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a low-cost DIY printer kit, based on the popular Prusa i3 design,  that uses a sliding bed for the Y direction and a portal for X-Z movement of the hotend. The printer frame is made from aluminium profiles and has a build volume of 220 x 220 x 300 mm. It is equipped with a heated build platform (heat bed up to 110 °C) and the hotend can reach about 275 °C to support a variety of materials like PLA, ABS and PETG, nylon, PVA, PC, HIPS, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-05-20T12:02:49.727" LastActivityDate="2021-05-20T12:02:49.727" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7056" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2018-10-02T06:59:38.473" Score="0" Body="Questions using this tag should involve the Tronxy X3 3D printer manufactured by Shenzhen Tronxy Technology Co., Ltd. " OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="150" LastEditDate="2018-10-25T09:43:27.707" LastActivityDate="2018-10-25T09:43:27.707" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7057" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7042" CreationDate="2018-10-02T08:53:29.723" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;As Trish states, a print service would appear to be your best bet. Building a printer large enough may work out costing more than the print service, especially if it is only for one print of a proof of concept.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anecdotally, I visited a 3D Printing shop in Bangkok, &lt;a href=&quot;http://jwh3dprinting.com/english/our-shop/our-shop.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;JWH High tech Garden&lt;/a&gt;, that had a &lt;em&gt;huge&lt;/em&gt; Delta printer that had, reputably, cost a million baht (~£20000) if my memory serves me correctly, and was capable of producing prints up to 1000 mm x 600 mm (39.37&quot; x 23.62&quot;):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tAN8o.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Large Delta printer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tAN8o.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Large Delta printer&quot; title=&quot;Large Delta printer&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, the print service was not cheap at all. In May 2017, I was quoted 68000-100000 baht (~£1360-2000) for some printed parts (the proteins) for a Wilson II 3D printer, which are about only £70 on eBay!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fpqlJ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Wilson II proteins&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fpqlJ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Wilson II proteins&quot; title=&quot;Wilson II proteins&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, it is worth taking into consideration that, at the moment, Thailand is very expensive for 3D printing in general, as it is relatively new there, and so prices for both printers and print services are high.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4762" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-10-02T09:20:06.673" LastActivityDate="2018-10-02T09:20:06.673" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7058" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2018-10-02T10:02:24.657" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Color is indicated by a characteristic name to identify the visual perception of an object that reflects specific wavelengths of the light.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-10-02T10:02:24.657" LastActivityDate="2018-10-02T10:02:24.657" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7059" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2018-10-02T10:02:24.657" Score="0" Body="Use this tag for specific questions related to the color of e.g. filament, powders or resins" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-10-02T10:02:24.657" LastActivityDate="2018-10-02T10:02:24.657" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7060" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2018-10-02T10:08:33.067" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;PTFE is short for &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Polytetrafluoroethylene&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Polytetrafluoroethylene&lt;/a&gt; which is commonly known as Teflon (note that this is a specific brand name). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;PTFE is a fluorocarbon solid, as it is a high-molecular-weight&#xA;  compound consisting wholly of carbon and fluorine. PTFE is&#xA;  hydrophobic: neither water nor water-containing substances wet PTFE,&#xA;  as fluorocarbons demonstrate mitigated London dispersion forces due to&#xA;  the high electronegativity of fluorine. PTFE has one of the lowest&#xA;  coefficients of friction of any solid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This low coefficient of friction makes it very very suitable to use as mantles for transporting filament from the spool to the extruder or from the extruder to the hotend as typically seen in Bowden style extruder systems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-10-02T10:08:33.067" LastActivityDate="2018-10-02T10:08:33.067" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7061" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2018-10-02T10:08:33.067" Score="0" Body="Use this tag for questions that use low friction tubes to transport filament." OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-10-02T10:08:33.067" LastActivityDate="2018-10-02T10:08:33.067" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7062" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2018-10-02T10:15:59.603" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;To print material in multiple dimensions it is required to mechanically move certain parts like e.g. carriages. The rotational motion of a stepper, servo or an electrical motor needs to be transferred to that carriage. Belts (e.g. timing belts) are used to transmit the power.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-10-02T10:15:59.603" LastActivityDate="2018-10-02T10:15:59.603" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7063" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2018-10-02T10:15:59.603" Score="0" Body="Use this tag for questions that relate to mechanical motion of a loop or a strip of material that induces rotation of multiple shafts." OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-10-02T10:15:59.603" LastActivityDate="2018-10-02T10:15:59.603" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7064" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2018-10-02T10:24:03.260" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.pronterface.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Pronterface&lt;/a&gt; is a fully-featured GUI host 3D printer application that is part of the Printrun application suite. It e.g. allows for interactive control (e.g. using a console to interact directly using a 3D machine code called &lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/wiki/G-code&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;G-code&lt;/a&gt;) to your 3D machine, slice objects directly from the host, print objects, upload to SD cards and run SD prints.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-10-02T10:24:03.260" LastActivityDate="2018-10-02T10:24:03.260" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7065" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2018-10-02T10:24:03.260" Score="0" Body="Use this tag for questions related to the use of operation of the program called Pronterface." OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-10-02T10:24:03.260" LastActivityDate="2018-10-02T10:24:03.260" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7066" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2018-10-02T10:38:04.217" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;A wire consists of a single or multiple (a bundle), usually cylindrical, flexible strand(s) or rod(s) of metal. Wires (or cables) are used to bear mechanical loads, electricity or data signals. A wire consisting of a bundle of strands, as in &quot;multistranded wire&quot;, is more flexible that single wires for the same wire area.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A standard wiring indication is used to identify the wire by using a &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/American_wire_gauge&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;gauge number&lt;/a&gt; to identify for various standard sizes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-10-02T10:38:04.217" LastActivityDate="2018-10-02T10:38:04.217" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7067" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2018-10-02T10:38:04.217" Score="0" Body="Use this tag for questions that are concerned with the choice of wire for transporting certain electrical currents (for powering electronics, motors or transport a certain stream of information) or even mechanical power." OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-10-02T10:38:04.217" LastActivityDate="2018-10-02T10:38:04.217" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7068" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2018-10-02T10:48:16.317" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;NEMA, short for National Electrical Manufacturers Association, is a trade association for electrical equipment manufacturers in the United States that also maintains and sets standards for electrical equipment. The NEMA 17 stepper motor is a stepper motor type specified by &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.techstreet.com/nema/standards/nema-ics-16-2001?product_id=926595&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;the NEMA ICS 16-2001 standard&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;NEMA 17 steppers have 1.7 x 1.7 inch motor housing dimensions and are very commonly used in 3D-printers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-10-25T06:14:34.700" LastActivityDate="2018-10-25T06:14:34.700" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7069" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2018-10-02T10:48:16.317" Score="0" Body="Use this tag for questions related to the NEMA standard stepper motor with type number &quot;17&quot; which stands for 1.7 x 1.7 inch (43.2 x 43.2 mm) stepper housing dimensions. The height of the stepper depends on the type, the larger the holding torque, the larger the height." OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-10-25T06:05:56.617" LastActivityDate="2018-10-25T06:05:56.617" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7070" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7071" CreationDate="2018-10-02T11:33:08.153" Score="3" ViewCount="1344" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just finished a CNC that uses Marlin Firmware. The dimensions of it are quite large (3200 x 2000 mm) and the table is not perfect. I'm thinking of adding a proximity sensor to store a mesh in the eeprom and thus compensate for any errors. I'm not sure how to do this. I would like to be able to execute an action from the display (full graphics) and have samples taken over the whole table, but I do not know how to tell the firmware where to take the samples, nor what the dimensions of it are.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13109" LastEditorUserId="13100" LastEditDate="2018-10-04T05:32:27.540" LastActivityDate="2018-10-04T05:32:27.540" Title="How do I add auto bed levelling to my Marlin-based CNC?" Tags="|bed-leveling|cnc|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7071" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7070" CreationDate="2018-10-02T13:03:57.043" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Auto bed leveling requires some settings (constants) in the configuration of your Marlin firmware.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is recommended to &lt;a href=&quot;http://marlinfw.org/docs/features/auto_bed_leveling.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;read about the implementation of automatic bed leveling&lt;/a&gt; first. There are a few options to choose the kind of leveling, for 3D printers a commonly chosen option is &lt;code&gt;AUTO_BED_LEVELING_BILINEAR&lt;/code&gt; which is the best option if you do not know if your bed is flat or not. If you are certain it is flat but tilted (e.g. when you have a milled bed or a glass plate in 3D printing) you could go for &lt;code&gt;AUTO_BED_LEVELING_3POINT&lt;/code&gt; or &lt;code&gt;AUTO_BED_LEVELING_LINEAR&lt;/code&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What further is important is the sensor type you choose. Do you want a touch or a proximity sensor. The latter is your preference (as specified in your question), which is a little simpler as you do not need to configure for servos for deploying and stowing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You need to set: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#define FIX_MOUNTED_PROBE&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;for using a fixed proximity sensor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the configuration file you also need to specify the position of the probe in relation to the nozzle (in your case tool center):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#define X_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER 10  // X offset: -left  +right  [of the nozzle]&#xA;#define Y_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER 10  // Y offset: -front +behind [the nozzle]&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and optionally:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#define Z_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER 0   // Z offset: -below +above  [the nozzle]&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This latter is not necessary as you can always set the distance of the sensor trigger point to the nozzle/tool plane by G-code command &lt;code&gt;M851 Z-x.xx&lt;/code&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You would also need to set the boundaries of the probe area to prevent the tool to hit unwanted positions (fill out values or leave the constants):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;// Set the boundaries for probing (where the probe can reach).&#xA;#define LEFT_PROBE_BED_POSITION MIN_PROBE_EDGE&#xA;#define RIGHT_PROBE_BED_POSITION (X_BED_SIZE - MIN_PROBE_EDGE)&#xA;#define FRONT_PROBE_BED_POSITION MIN_PROBE_EDGE&#xA;#define BACK_PROBE_BED_POSITION (Y_BED_SIZE - MIN_PROBE_EDGE)&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once properly setup, command &lt;a href=&quot;http://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/G029-abl.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;code&gt;G29&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/a&gt; runs the leveling of the bed, options are available for that command to store the bed mesh to EEPROM.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Enabling &lt;code&gt;LCD_BED_LEVELING&lt;/code&gt; constant in the configuration file will add a Bed Leveling sub-menu to the LCD. But you could also work with SD-card stored files that load these codes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprint.wiki/reprap/anet/a8/improvement/autobedleveling&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;This&lt;/a&gt; reference explains the automatic leveling in more detail, but there are many more detailed guides to follow from the internet. Be sure that you get a recent guide to that is easier to set in the latest firmware.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-10-02T20:45:13.403" LastActivityDate="2018-10-02T20:45:13.403" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7072" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7042" CreationDate="2018-10-02T15:44:23.413" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;So long as you are not dealing with &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Space_Shuttle_Challenger_disaster&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;MortonThiokol&lt;/a&gt; issues,  there is a simple tradeoff: high-cost printer vs.  breaking down your design into smaller parts with assembly features.&#xA;Many designers publish designs which snap-fit together; others suggest glue;  still others go the safe route of providing clearance holes and requiring metal nuts&amp;amp;bolts to assemble. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In sum - if you can deal with separate parts, you can print everything on a standard bed size. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2191" LastActivityDate="2018-10-02T15:44:23.413" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7074" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3902" CreationDate="2018-10-02T16:58:18.470" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Don't waste your time on SLA or FDM machines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you use SLA, it might print but you risk breaking the sharp edges during support removal and FDM is just a another level of pain for support removal. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Print this using SLS and Polyamide 2200 or PA 12, they both are the same material.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should come out of the machine exactly the way you need with those sharp edges intact. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;SLS technology does not require any support material.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should be able to get it printed at any professional service bureau near to you, just google to find them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9769" LastActivityDate="2018-10-02T16:58:18.470" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7075" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2018-10-03T05:35:05.473" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;A mold or mould is a negative (hollowed-out) product for the creation of positive products by means of casting a liquid or a pliable material like clay into the negative product to create the positive. After the positive has hardened out, the product can be removed from the mold. In order to get the product from a mold it is quite common to construct a mold from multiple parts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-10-03T05:35:05.473" LastActivityDate="2018-10-03T05:35:05.473" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7076" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2018-10-03T05:35:05.473" Score="0" Body="Use this tag for questions about the process of making a hollowed-out product for the production of other products by filling that void with a pliable material or a liquid that sets in time.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-10-03T05:35:05.473" LastActivityDate="2018-10-03T05:35:05.473" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7077" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2018-10-03T06:23:35.683" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Creality CR-10 is a DIY kit based on the popular Prusa i3 design. This is a low-cost printer that uses a sliding bed for the Y direction and a portal for X-Z movement of the hotend. The printer frame is made from aluminium profiles. It is equipped with a heated build platform (heat bed) with a printer volume of 300 x 300 x 400 mm and uses a Bowden type extruder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Besides the CR-10, the family also contains its variants, such as the CR-10S and varying build volumes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is closely related to the somewhat smaller &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/ender3&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;ender3&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;ender3&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2019-01-12T00:06:04.087" LastActivityDate="2019-01-12T00:06:04.087" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7078" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2018-10-03T06:23:35.683" Score="0" Body="This tag should be used for specific questions about specific issues involving the Creality CR-10 family of 3D printers." OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2019-01-12T00:06:04.087" LastActivityDate="2019-01-12T00:06:04.087" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7079" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2018-10-03T06:28:58.620" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Tevo Tarantula is a 3D printer based on the popular Prusa i3 design and is manufactured by TEVO 3D Electronic Technology Co.,Ltd. This is a low-cost printer that uses a sliding bed for the Y direction and a portal for X-Z movement of the hotend. The printer frame is made from aluminium profiles. It is equipped with a heated build platform (heat bed) with a printer volume of 200 x 200 x 200 mm (or an optional 200 x 280 x 200 mm) and uses a Bowden type extruder. More details &lt;a href=&quot;https://tevo3dprinterstore.com/products/2016-newest-tevo-tarantula-i3-aluminium-extrusion-3d-printer-kit-printer-3d-printing-2-rolls-filament-8gb-sd-card-lcd-as-gift&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-10-25T09:34:48.043" LastActivityDate="2018-10-25T09:34:48.043" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7080" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2018-10-03T06:28:58.620" Score="0" Body="This tag should be used for specific questions about specific issues involving the TEVO Tarantula 3D printer." OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-10-03T06:28:58.620" LastActivityDate="2018-10-03T06:28:58.620" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7081" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2018-10-03T06:44:04.660" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;A CNC machine uses a computer controller that reads instructions and drives a machine tool. In effect, all 3D printers are CNC machines, but CNC is commonly referring to machines that are machining tools (e.g. drills, boring tools, lathes).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-10-03T06:44:04.660" LastActivityDate="2018-10-03T06:44:04.660" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7082" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2018-10-03T06:44:04.660" Score="0" Body="Use this tag for specific question regarding computer numerical control (CNC) machines." OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-10-03T06:44:04.660" LastActivityDate="2018-10-03T06:44:04.660" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7083" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7085" CreationDate="2018-10-03T11:48:53.890" Score="5" ViewCount="1098" Body="&lt;p&gt;I wanted to create a coin stacking device similar to this one:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:499177&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:499177&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I wanted to only 3 coins, 5c, 2c, and 1c. Unfortunately the STL came in pretty messy after importing to Blender, which made it difficult to edit the model to have only 3 stacks. So I decided to create my own. I used a box and three cylinders with the diameter of the coins + 2mm so the coins can fall loose into the stack. The cylinders where used for boolean modify the box to create the stack gaps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1dgA7.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1dgA7.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Exporting the model as an obj and importing them to Cura showed it getting strange diagonal faces at the stack gaps and at the top. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Xgjzt.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Xgjzt.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After slicing however the faces were gone and the test print came out pretty decent, even on low quality settings the measurement were quite exact.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VPUWI.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VPUWI.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Still I would like to know why these additional faces appear and how to prevent that. I am not a blender expert, but I guess it has to do something with the topology/faces? I started creating additional edges in Blender for the isolated vertex created by the boolean modifier, but I don't know if that's actually necessary for a 3d printed model that's not going to be textured ect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5359" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2020-07-13T10:35:32.100" LastActivityDate="2020-07-13T10:35:32.100" Title="Strange walls/faces when importing self made model from Blender to Cura 3" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|3d-models|slicing|blender|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7084" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7042" CreationDate="2018-10-03T11:56:49.280" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I do not know about your project, but the size of the final object.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Smaller prints glued together&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just design smaller parts and glue them together. Take a look on this &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s1q2D_pK0BE&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;video&lt;/a&gt;, where Joel Telling glues OpenRC Formula parts. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/W75Cy.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/W75Cy.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Hangprinter&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Interesting concept is &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hangprinter&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Hangprinter&lt;/a&gt; where volume size depends on your room size. It's a RepRap so you have to build it yourself. Components price should be around 500$.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zDQQD.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zDQQD.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Buy a big printer&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your budget is bigger then you can buy a printer. See following lists: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://all3dp.com/1/best-large-3d-printer-large-format-scale-3d-printers/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://all3dp.com/1/best-large-3d-printer-large-format-scale-3d-printers/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.aniwaa.com/largest-3d-printers/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.aniwaa.com/largest-3d-printers/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Print service&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have higher budget and you need just one, two prints, then you can use 3d printing services like &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.3dhubs.com/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;3dhubs&lt;/a&gt;. Such services use large printers. See a &lt;a href=&quot;https://all3dp.com/1/best-online-3d-printing-service-3d-print-services/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;list on all3dp.com&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="75" LastEditorUserId="75" LastEditDate="2018-10-03T13:09:28.333" LastActivityDate="2018-10-03T13:09:28.333" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7085" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7083" CreationDate="2018-10-03T11:59:31.613" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is quite common for modelling operations to result in 'non manifold geometry', meaning that some of the faces intersect or are not perfectly joined.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although there is nothing obvious in your model, you can check in blender by going into edit mode, unselect all, selecting nodes, and 'select all by attribute/non manifold' Ctl-Alt-Shift-M (if I remember right).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Usually this happens with boolean operations where you merge the same object twice (i.e. union for the hole, then difference with the cut part). You would need to apply the boolean to see the non-manifold result.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any of the standard mesh fixing tools will attempt to clean up your exported STL, and you could then import the model back into blender (but then it is a one way process, and you can't make updates to the base model). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4927" LastActivityDate="2018-10-03T11:59:31.613" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7086" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2018-10-03T12:13:47.630" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the printer has finished the product that was instructed to be produced, any action thereafter that is needed are considered post-production steps. Examples are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;pry the product from the bed, &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;change the surface of your product (sanding, smoothing, etc.), &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;change the strength of the print (annealing),&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;etc.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any other question on any activity after the production could be tagged with this tag.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-10-03T12:13:47.630" LastActivityDate="2018-10-03T12:13:47.630" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7087" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2018-10-03T12:13:47.630" Score="0" Body="Use this tag for questions about post-processing steps after you have printed a product." OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-10-03T12:13:47.630" LastActivityDate="2018-10-03T12:13:47.630" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7088" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2018-10-03T13:46:12.953" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The MK2a is a certain layout of a &lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/wiki/Heated_Bed&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;heated bed platform&lt;/a&gt;. It is based on a heated bed (MK1) design by Josef Průša. It comprises of a 2 mm thick Printed Circuit Board (PCB) with an etched copper pattern, the resistor. Its size is 214 x 214 mm with an effective heating area of 200 x 200 mm and can be operated at either 12 or 24 Volts (please note how to attach the wires).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="4808" LastEditDate="2018-10-13T06:52:51.733" LastActivityDate="2018-10-13T06:52:51.733" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7089" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2018-10-03T13:46:12.953" Score="0" Body="Use this tag for questions about the MK2a heat bed platform." OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-10-03T13:46:12.953" LastActivityDate="2018-10-03T13:46:12.953" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7090" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7083" CreationDate="2018-10-03T14:07:41.683" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not sure about Blender, but MeshMixer has a &quot;Plane Cut&quot; tool that would allow you to take the source STL file and cut off the parts you don't want.  That might save you some pain. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But if the final sliced &lt;strong&gt;gcode&lt;/strong&gt; file works,  don't worry too much. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2191" LastActivityDate="2018-10-03T14:07:41.683" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7091" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7083" CreationDate="2018-10-03T14:41:44.187" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Judging from your second screenshot, I'd say that Cura does not like n-gons very much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An n-gon is any polygon with more than 4 sides. Most software tries to convert these polygons into triangles, with solutions that may not be what you want. Obviously, if you triangulate your surfaces manually this problem becomes moot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Go to Modifiers, add the Triangulate modifier, click apply.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13125" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-04-14T05:05:21.077" LastActivityDate="2020-04-14T05:05:21.077" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7092" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-10-03T15:00:06.977" Score="7" ViewCount="3082" Body="&lt;p&gt;So, I have a Raise3D Pro2, and I'm looking to perfect a tool change script for it, the goal of which is to reduce or eliminate the excess plastic that tends to build up on the nozzle when using the dual extruder. The printer uses the Marlin G-code flavor, and although I'm not sure this matters, I'm slicing in ideaMaker. The script is supposed to flow as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Retract current tool&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Move to X30 Y300&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check if the new active tool is T0&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If T0, wipe nozzle 2mm circle&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If T0, cool T1 to 165C&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If T0, heat T0 to 230C&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If T0 and not layer 1, recover &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If T0, wipe nozzle again, this time for the new tool&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check if the new active tool is T1&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If T1, wipe nozzle 2mm circle&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If T1, cool T0 to 165C&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If T1, heat T1 to 230C&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If T1 and not layer 1, recover &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If T1, wipe nozzle again, this time for the new tool&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The current script I have looks like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;; extruder switch gcode start&#xA;G10 S1; Retract for current nozzle&#xA;G1 X30 Y300 F6000; Move to X:30 Y:300&#xA;[if {new_extruder}=0]; LEFT Extruder is active (T0)&#xA;[if {new_extruder}=0]G12 P2 R2; Clean inactive nozzle 2mm circle&#xA;[if {new_extruder}=0]M104 S165 T1; Cool inactive extruder to 165c (T1)&#xA;[if {new_extruder}=0]M109 S230 T0; Heat active extruder to 230c (T0) and wait.&#xA;[[if {new_extruder}=0] and [{layer_index} NE 1]]G11; Recover current nozzle when not first layer&#xA;[if {new_extruder}=0]G12 P2 R2; Clean active nozzle 2mm circle&#xA;[if {new_extruder}=1]; RIGHT Extruder is active (T1)&#xA;[if {new_extruder}=1]G12 P2 R2; Clean inactive nozzle 2mm circle&#xA;[if {new_extruder}=1]M104 S165 T0; Cool inactive extruder to 165c (T0)&#xA;[if {new_extruder}=1]M109 S230 T1; Heat active extruder to 230c (T1) and wait.&#xA;[[if {new_extruder}=1] and [{layer_index} NE 1]]G11; Recover current nozzle&#xA;[if {new_extruder}=1]G12 P2 R2; Clean active nozzle 2mm circle&#xA;; extruder switch gcode end&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The issue is that, when I run a print with this, it doesn't seem to run all of the commands. It does the move, and the cooling/heating, but the retract/recover and nozzle wipe doesn't seem to read. I'm not sure if that's because of a printer or syntax issue, or because those commands don't work the way I think they do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT:&lt;/strong&gt; (by Pᴀᴜʟsᴛᴇʀ2 - Added new code and logic back in)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;New logic:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Retract current tool&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Move to X30 Y300&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check if the new active tool is T0&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If T0, wipe nozzle 2mm circle&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If T0, cool T1 to 165C&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If T0, heat T0 to 230C&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If T0 and not layer 1, recover&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If T0, wipe nozzle again, this time for the new tool&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check if the new active tool is T1&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If T1, wipe nozzle 2mm circle&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If T1, cool T0 to 165C&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If T1, heat T1 to 230C&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If T1 and not layer 1, recover&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If T1, wipe nozzle again, this time for the new tool&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The new script I have looks like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;; extruder switch gcode start&#xA;G10 S1; Retract for current nozzle&#xA;G1 X30 Y300 F6000; Move to X:30 Y:300&#xA;[if {new_extruder}=0]; LEFT Extruder is active (T0)&#xA;[if {new_extruder}=0]G12 P2 R2; Clean inactive nozzle 2mm circle&#xA;[if {new_extruder}=0]M104 S165 T1; Cool inactive extruder to 165c (T1)&#xA;[if {new_extruder}=0]M109 S230 T0; Heat active extruder to 230c (T0) and wait.&#xA;[[if {new_extruder}=0] and [{layer_index} NE 1]]G11; Recover current nozzle when not first layer&#xA;[if {new_extruder}=0]G12 P2 R2; Clean active nozzle 2mm circle&#xA;[if {new_extruder}=1]; RIGHT Extruder is active (T1)&#xA;[if {new_extruder}=1]G12 P2 R2; Clean inactive nozzle 2mm circle&#xA;[if {new_extruder}=1]M104 S165 T0; Cool inactive extruder to 165c (T0)&#xA;[if {new_extruder}=1]M109 S230 T1; Heat active extruder to 230c (T1) and wait.&#xA;[[if {new_extruder}=1] and [{layer_index} NE 1]]G11; Recover current nozzle&#xA;[if {new_extruder}=1]G12 P2 R2; Clean active nozzle 2mm circle&#xA;; extruder switch gcode end&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13123" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-10-04T23:13:44.623" LastActivityDate="2018-10-05T15:10:16.497" Title="Help with a Tool Change Script" Tags="|marlin|g-code|scripts|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7093" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2018-10-03T15:02:55.810" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Retraction of filament is the opposite of filament extrusion. Slicer software allows for specification of a retraction length, which in effect is a negative length. Retraction of filament can be required to minimize the oozing of the hotend during travel moves. This is explained by the relaxation of the pressure build-up in the hotend.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-10-03T15:02:55.810" LastActivityDate="2018-10-03T15:02:55.810" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7094" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2018-10-03T15:02:55.810" Score="0" Body="Use this tag for questions about retraction of filament." OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-10-03T15:02:55.810" LastActivityDate="2018-10-03T15:02:55.810" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7095" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-10-03T15:06:16.920" Score="1" ViewCount="848" Body="&lt;p&gt;So when CR-10 prints square (&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TPSg3x6hxFA&amp;amp;feature=youtu.be&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;like on the video starting from 6 second&lt;/a&gt;) while being in the top right corner extruder jerks i.e. slightly moves to the right and then continues movement to the left. So the resulting prints are not so nice:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7cccp.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7cccp.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;What can I do? I don't see issues in assembling but I almost definitely have them. What can be wrong?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;UPDATE&lt;/strong&gt;: Printer settings: nozzle temperature - 180, bed temperature - 65. I calibrated extuder according to the video. Bed level seems to be ok for me. I started using Difamix because of bed adhesion (sometimes even using IKEA mirror).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is my calibration cube size (I wrote only edges different from 20mm):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/o7Cql.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/o7Cql.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;calibration cube size&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And here is the issues with calibration cube I found. Top layer:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tiJYZ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tiJYZ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Top layer&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt; &#xA;Bottom layer:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MN4oB.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MN4oB.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Bottom layer&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;Layer with Y is a bit rough (not a big issue as for me):&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CymoS.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CymoS.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Layer with Y&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;Also edge between X layer and Y layer is not very sharp, a bit rounded.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13114" LastEditorUserId="13114" LastEditDate="2018-10-03T20:23:30.923" LastActivityDate="2018-11-14T23:00:55.150" Title="Creality CR-10 slightly jerks when moves from right to left" Tags="|print-quality|calibration|creality-cr-10|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7096" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2018-10-03T15:15:38.990" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Secure_Digital&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Secure Digital&lt;/a&gt; (SD) is a non-volatile memory card format. This format is developed by the SD Card Association for use in portable devices. Many 3D printer boards have an SD card interface (micro SD or SD) for removable storage of 3D printer code (G-code) files. The printer controller allows fir reading the SD card and can print these files directly from the card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-10-03T15:15:38.990" LastActivityDate="2018-10-03T15:15:38.990" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7097" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2018-10-03T15:15:38.990" Score="0" Body="Use this tag for questions regarding SD card operation." OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-10-03T15:15:38.990" LastActivityDate="2018-10-03T15:15:38.990" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7098" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2018-10-03T16:53:10.657" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Glass should be used in conjunction with a heated bed. Raised to the correct temperature, materials like PLA and PETG stick directly to the glass, filaments with more shrinkage benefit from using a PVA based solution to even increase the adhesion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-10-03T16:53:10.657" LastActivityDate="2018-10-03T16:53:10.657" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7099" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2018-10-03T16:53:10.657" Score="0" Body="Use this tag for questions related to glass slates used as build plate platform." OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-10-03T16:53:10.657" LastActivityDate="2018-10-03T16:53:10.657" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7100" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2018-10-03T17:00:02.963" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Please refer to &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/sd&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;sd&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;sd&lt;/a&gt;, MicroSD is different with respect to the physical card size. Often SD adapters are available to use MicroSD cards in a large SD card readers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-10-03T17:00:02.963" LastActivityDate="2018-10-03T17:00:02.963" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7101" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2018-10-03T17:00:02.963" Score="0" Body="Use this tag for questions regarding MicroSD card operation" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-10-03T17:00:02.963" LastActivityDate="2018-10-03T17:00:02.963" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7102" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2018-10-03T17:08:05.643" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;HDPE stands for High-Density PolyEthylene. It is a thermoplastic material with a high strength-to-density ratio and is like PE challenging to print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-10-03T17:08:05.643" LastActivityDate="2018-10-03T17:08:05.643" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7103" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2018-10-03T17:08:05.643" Score="0" Body="Use this tag for questions regarding the use of HDPE as part of e.g. building your printer or as filament for printing." OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-10-03T17:08:05.643" LastActivityDate="2018-10-03T17:08:05.643" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7104" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2018-10-03T17:16:30.673" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;PET-G (or PETG) is obtained by doping PET (PolyEthylene Terephthalate) with glycol (hence the -G). PETG is a thermoplastic material with similar properties as ABS, difference is that it is more flexible and shrinks less than ABS. This means it is easier to print than ABS and preferred over ABS, especially in cases where a 3D printer does not have an enclosed build platform. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More details &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Polyethylene_terephthalate#Copolymers&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="150" LastEditDate="2018-10-25T06:23:37.347" LastActivityDate="2018-10-25T06:23:37.347" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7105" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2018-10-03T17:16:30.673" Score="0" Body="Use this tag for questions about PETG." OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-10-03T17:16:30.673" LastActivityDate="2018-10-03T17:16:30.673" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7106" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2018-10-03T17:53:33.363" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most printers use some form of linear motion (even &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/delta&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;delta&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;delta&lt;/a&gt; printers use linear motion) to drive the various axes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-10-03T17:53:33.363" LastActivityDate="2018-10-03T17:53:33.363" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7107" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2018-10-03T17:53:33.363" Score="0" Body="Use this tag for questions about one-dimensional motion along a straight line." OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-10-03T17:53:33.363" LastActivityDate="2018-10-03T17:53:33.363" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7108" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2018-10-03T17:58:21.997" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;This tag can be used for questions about the stability of the structure, stability against buckling or directional stability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-10-03T17:58:21.997" LastActivityDate="2018-10-03T17:58:21.997" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7109" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2018-10-03T17:58:21.997" Score="0" Body="Use this tag for questions about a printed object's stability." OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2019-07-01T10:56:55.353" LastActivityDate="2019-07-01T10:56:55.353" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7110" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2018-10-03T18:08:53.483" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;A low-cost solution for controlling 3D printers is the open-source Arduino micro-controller hardware platform. Many affordable boards use Arduino family micro-controllers to control the motion, heating, cooling, etcc using the digital and analog input/output (I/O) pins of the micro-processor. Open-source software is available to compile and upload the various flavors of &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/firmware&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;firmware&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;firmware&lt;/a&gt; that are available.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;General Arduino questions not related to 3D printing are off-topic; please visit our sister site &lt;a href=&quot;https://arduino.stackexchange.com&quot;&gt;Arduino Stack Exchange&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="4808" LastEditDate="2018-12-01T12:53:02.517" LastActivityDate="2018-12-01T12:53:02.517" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7111" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2018-10-03T18:08:53.483" Score="0" Body="Use this tag for questions about 3D printing with the micro-controller hardware platform Arduino. For general Arduino questions, please use the Arduino Stack Exchange site." OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="4808" LastEditDate="2018-12-01T12:53:06.000" LastActivityDate="2018-12-01T12:53:06.000" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7112" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="783" CreationDate="2018-10-03T21:11:45.773" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have given this some thought prior since, I am also in need of such things, so here is my 2 cents.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;How can I measure her feet and transfer the measurements to the&#xA;  printer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to be very accurate, then you will need a 3d scanner. Failing this, then you're most likely going to have to take an outline. Just let her stand on a piece of paper and draw an outline of her foot. Next get a document scanner and scan the trace. You could also take a photo but you will have issues getting the correct scale. Assuming your outline is black, convert the scanned outline to a vector file using an online source or Adobe Illustrator (e.g &lt;a href=&quot;https://vectormagic.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://vectormagic.com&lt;/a&gt;). &#xA;Once you have a vector outline then import it into your cad software and begin modeling the insole.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;How can I measure the inside of the shoe?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remove the exsisting insole (if possible) and scan it in a document scanner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;What kind of printer can print with the flexible filament?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any direct drive extruder can print with Ninjaflex or other flexible filament. You could also try &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.matterhackers.com/store/l/poro-lay-lay-fomm-filament-175mm/sk/MLWKN3PY&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;PORO-LAY&lt;/a&gt;, but it is much more expensive. I'd advise you to do you test runs in PLA or something cheap until you get the correct fit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12857" LastActivityDate="2018-10-03T21:11:45.773" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7113" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3731" CreationDate="2018-10-04T05:56:04.953" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;sub&gt;&lt;em&gt;The OP has solved the problem as read from a comment on a deleted answer. So far the OP has been reluctant to post the answer; therefore his comment is converted into a community answer.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It appears that the OP had incorrectly configured his firmware considering the comment: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&quot;I figured out what was wrong. Turns out the no extrude command was uncommented and worked fine when changed the min temp on it.&quot;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2018-10-04T05:56:04.953" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2018-10-04T05:56:04.953" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7114" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5239" CreationDate="2018-10-04T16:21:30.490" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;As it turns out, my Z-axis carriage mount to the X-axis was bent, causing the nozzle to touch the bed before the proble could get a chance to detect anything. Manually bending it back to the correct angle solved the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9597" LastActivityDate="2018-10-04T16:21:30.490" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7115" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7037" CreationDate="2018-10-04T19:34:39.770" Score="26" Body="&lt;p&gt;0scar gave a great answer, but I wanted to add to it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCiczXOhGpvoQGhOL16EZiTg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Stefan of CNC Kitchen&lt;/a&gt; does a lot of 3D printer technique testing. He covered the gyroid and other patterns. While there's a difference in filament used, the significant differences are &lt;strong&gt;strength&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;code&gt;*&lt;/code&gt; and &lt;strong&gt;print speed&lt;/strong&gt;. &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=upELI0HmzHc&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Here's his 8-minute infill pattern testing video&lt;/a&gt;; some screenshots follow. I stopped printing honeycomb once this video came out. Perhaps I should switch to gyroid too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NDysz.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NDysz.png&quot; alt=&quot;infill type vs failure strength&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BDfQW.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BDfQW.png&quot; alt=&quot;infill type vs print time&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;code&gt;*&lt;/code&gt; yes, I'm calling it &quot;strength&quot;. Don't at me, physics and materials science peeps, I know it's inaccurate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9411" LastEditorUserId="9411" LastEditDate="2018-10-05T14:48:05.447" LastActivityDate="2018-10-05T14:48:05.447" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7116" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4692" CreationDate="2018-10-05T04:03:13.190" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have made some learning on mechanical setup and discovered some issues on my printer, there are few:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bed warped, even with glass (thin thickness), making BAL confused with Z-movement over the bed.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Overextrusion making layer oversized in terms of thickness.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Some of missing mechanical fine adjustments.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main reason for this symptom was the overextrusion (that made my X and Y axis jump some steps when hotend collapses in the already-printed materials on their movements).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope this helps some of those who have this similar problem!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8601" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-10-05T07:15:32.450" LastActivityDate="2018-10-05T07:15:32.450" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7118" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7092" CreationDate="2018-10-05T08:42:20.913" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;As far as I can recognize, the g-code file cannot be evaluated &lt;strong&gt;by printer firmware&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is expected that slicer software will be aware of tool head selection and process tool changes according to g-code provided in an on-tool change in most slicers. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The best way to think about g-code (in RepRap word) is a one-way communication as the file is not treated as a script that can read and evaluate parameters on the go. (firmware capabilities).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;references: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/wiki/G-code&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;RepRap G-code list&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/1069/4816/files/Pro2_Series_-_Quick_Start_Guide.pdf?15083834668884425755&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Printer quick start guide&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9730" LastEditorUserId="9730" LastEditDate="2018-10-05T15:10:16.497" LastActivityDate="2018-10-05T15:10:16.497" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7120" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5275" CreationDate="2018-10-05T18:36:57.807" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been using Marlin 2.0 bugfix for several months with no issues on my RAMPS 1.4 based printer. Installing it is the same as any other printer firmware, or rather, uploading any Arduino sketch. In fact, rather than searching &quot;how to upload Marlin Firmware&quot; you should instead search &quot;How to upload an Arduino Sketch&quot; as most printers are Arduino powered and the process is the same as making a simple LED blink program, granted the source code is MUCH bigger. The quick &amp;amp; dirty is: Download and install the latest Arduino IDE and make sure your board is recognized by following instructions for your board. In the Marlin directory from the downloaded firmware, open the .ino file in Arduino IDE. On the tabs above, you will see Configuration.H and Configuration_adv.h those are the 2 files to edit, and ONLY 2 unless you are familiar with what you are doing, plus Marlin 2.0 redid the file layout so you shouldn't get confused by 20+ other files open also as in 1.x. The comments give you a good idea of what to change &amp;amp; google will help with the rest. Once done, click on Compile &amp;amp; Upload in the Arduino tools, and done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13139" LastActivityDate="2018-10-05T18:36:57.807" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7121" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-10-05T19:37:56.680" Score="3" ViewCount="711" Body="&lt;p&gt;After unboxing and setting up my brand-new &lt;strong&gt;Wanhao Duplicator i3 Mini&lt;/strong&gt;, I can't seem to print. When selecting a model to print, the extruder does not heat up and the whole printer does nothing, yet the progress bar moves from 0 to 100 in a few seconds time (&lt;a href=&quot;https://streamable.com/txuwk&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;VIDEO LINK&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please note that&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the extruder does heat up when adding filament and does extrude a&#xA;small amount when adding filament&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the servos all seem to work, as the&#xA;extruder moves around just fine when leveling the bed using the&#xA;wizard&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have done the following as per &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&amp;amp;rct=j&amp;amp;q=&amp;amp;esrc=s&amp;amp;source=web&amp;amp;cd=1&amp;amp;ved=2ahUKEwi88NHrgfDdAhURsqQKHaWdCPAQFjAAegQICRAC&amp;amp;url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.3dprima.com%2F%3FActionCall%3DWebActionDownloadDocument%26Params%5BitemId%5D%3D22535%26Params%5BdocumentId%5D%3D323&amp;amp;usg=AOvVaw1LJ5vEUlB7VW9K5_o9iNSB&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;the manual&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Removed the cable ties which held the bed for transport&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Attached the spool holder&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Connected power and switched it&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;On leveled the bed using the wizard multiple times&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Added a spool of 1.75 PLA filament as instructed by the manual/firmware &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The included SD card wasn't recognized, copied the files to a new one, which was recognized.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the &lt;a href=&quot;https://pastebin.com/ptcAajPe&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;link to the file I'm trying to print&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have flashed the firmware as described &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6W5bUdRaU34&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; but it didn't change anything&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can print using the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wanhao3dprinter.com/Down/ShowArticle.asp?ArticleID=56&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Wanhao Cura software&lt;/a&gt; and a USB connection. For the time being, this is an acceptable workaround.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The nozzle size is 0.4 mm&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13140" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-10-10T08:59:33.133" LastActivityDate="2018-10-10T08:59:33.133" Title="Can't print on Wanhao Duplicator i3 Mini" Tags="|wanhao|duplicator-i3-mini|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7122" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7135" CreationDate="2018-10-06T05:27:46.417" Score="5" ViewCount="5554" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just got &lt;a href=&quot;http://smile.amazon.com/Stronghero3D-Printing-Filaments-Accuracy-0-05mm/dp/B07HDZ9K22/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;my first spool of PETG&lt;/a&gt; and tried to calibrate an Ultimaker Cura profile for it on my Ender 3 today with limited success. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've had severe issues with the filament not sticking to the build surface, instead balling up around the edges of the nozzle tip. (&lt;em&gt;rather like &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/722/petg-collecting-on-the-extruder&quot;&gt;this post&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/em&gt;) Sometimes it sticks alright, but that happens properly &gt; 50 % of the time. I've never seen this behavior with my PLA materials.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So far, I've only been trying to print &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:37869&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;this calibration part&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Relevant Profile Params:&lt;/strong&gt; (&lt;em&gt;let me know if I need to post more, I think these are the relevant ones&lt;/em&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Layer Height: 0.2 mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Temp&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Nozzle: 240 &amp;deg;C&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bed: 60 &amp;deg;C&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Print Speed: 60 mm/s (&lt;em&gt;more specific params left to auto calculation&lt;/em&gt;)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Travel Speed: 300 mm/s (&lt;em&gt;max&lt;/em&gt;)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cooling fan&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Initial: 0 %&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fan Speed: 100 %&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Retraction&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Distance: 5 mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Speed: 50 mm/s&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Skirt min length: 250 mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was initially going by advice from &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8_adY2K-YIc&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Thomas Sanlanderer's video on PETG&lt;/a&gt;, starting with 230 &amp;deg;C/70 &amp;deg;C, but when that really didn't work, I then tried the advice of a Reddit user (&lt;em&gt;can't relocate thread&lt;/em&gt;) that said to try a lower bed temp. I then experimented with different bed temps in the 50's to mixed avail. Most other threads are talking about PETG + glass, which seems to work well with a PVA glue stick surface finish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm getting a glass build surface soon (&lt;em&gt;as soon as GearBest can ship it from across the pond&lt;/em&gt;), and I hear that will help, but in the meantime, I want to find a way to make it work with the fake Buildtak. What can I do to try to make this work better? My thinking is that the issue is with the bed config (&lt;em&gt;temp, surface, etc.&lt;/em&gt;) and not with the nozzle temp, but I could be wrong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12377" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-10-06T05:45:19.273" LastActivityDate="2018-11-02T07:57:23.580" Title="PETG filament doesn't stick reliably to fake Buildtak surface" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|extrusion|creality-ender-3|petg|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7123" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4224" CreationDate="2018-10-06T07:42:44.033" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can use Windows IoT Core to do it, see -&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://developer.microsoft.com/en-us/windows/iot/docs/3dprintserver&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://developer.microsoft.com/en-us/windows/iot/docs/3dprintserver&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13144" LastEditorUserId="233" LastEditDate="2018-10-06T16:30:35.273" LastActivityDate="2018-10-06T16:30:35.273" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7124" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-10-06T11:39:31.243" Score="4" ViewCount="3678" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an Anet A8 printer (no modifications) and first printed a calibration cube. It came out okayish, within expectations. Afterwards I flashed the firmware to Marlin 1.1.9 and since then have very high over extrusion. In this picture you see on the left the original calibration cube with the stock firmware and on the right a cube with Marlin (unfortunately not a good picture):&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6IWIM.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6IWIM.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;In fact on the right cube you can see two narrow vertical lines in which extrusion appeared to have come out fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The cube on the left was without calibration. On the right hand side all axes, including the extruder, where correctly calibrated. The bed is level. The extruder has been calibrated in case of the cube on the right hand side (95.6 steps/mm). Material is PLA.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After flashing to Marlin the over-extrusion became such a problem that the nozzle is constantly dragging over the printed plastic. You might notice, that these are in fact different cubes, that is correct. I tried the same G-code from the left cube again, but aborted the print, because the nozzle was hitting the print too much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I calculated a modified flow rate according to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.desiquintans.com/flowrate&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; tutorial and found that I would have to reduce my flow rate to 44%.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This appears quite wrong to me. What could be in the firmware change that causes such a massive over extrusion?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13147" LastEditorUserId="13147" LastEditDate="2018-10-21T14:15:10.810" LastActivityDate="2018-10-21T14:15:10.810" Title="Massive over extrusion after changing firmware" Tags="|marlin|anet-a8|extrusion|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7125" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6643" CreationDate="2018-10-06T18:13:18.123" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;After gaining more of an understanding of how Marlin works, I decided to look through the  the pins file for the motherboard I am using &quot;pins_ULTIMAIN_2.h&quot;.  Sure enough, It had a the wrong pin number for the z stop specified. After changing that number, I gained full functionality.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is what they should be:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#define X_STOP_PIN         22&#xA;#define Y_STOP_PIN         26&#xA;#define Z_STOP_PIN         29&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12631" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-10-06T18:23:21.837" LastActivityDate="2018-10-06T18:23:21.837" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7126" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7122" CreationDate="2018-10-07T00:44:30.070" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Thanks to the magic of r/3Dprinting, I have a solution. &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/comments/9ltni1/petg_filament_doesnt_stick_reliably_to_ender_3/e79nq20&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;u/Lhelge helped me out with a tip&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I would suggest a higher bed temperature. I print PETG at 80°-95° for the first layer depending on which printer. Then I go down a bit for the second layer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I then started out by trying a 250 °C/80 °C temperature config and sure enough, it worked great. I managed to tune my profile down to 250 °C/70 °C and up from 50 mm/s to 70 mm/s.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12377" LastActivityDate="2018-10-07T00:44:30.070" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7127" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7129" CreationDate="2018-10-07T04:59:55.353" Score="6" ViewCount="182" Body="&lt;p&gt;Other than the most obvious issue with the filament kinking in the tube, what other issues could arise when trying to print flexibles (&lt;em&gt;i.e. TPU/TPE, Nylon, etc.&lt;/em&gt;) with a Bowden style extruder setup? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can the kinking issue be alleviated by a well-constrained filament path (&lt;em&gt;proper ID&lt;/em&gt;) in a properly sized Bowden tube?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12377" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-10-08T07:47:26.840" LastActivityDate="2018-10-11T05:12:16.660" Title="What are the limiting factors when trying to print flexible filaments with a Bowden extruder setup?" Tags="|bowden|nylon|flexible|tpu|tpe|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7129" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7127" CreationDate="2018-10-07T07:17:10.417" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;As a user of an UM3E, which uses Bowden tubes and has TPU as an available material, I can tell you that the kinking issues can be alleviated or downright avoided. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've printed quite a few things with the Ultimaker-brand TPU 95, and never had problems with kinking in the tube. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ultimaker uses 2.85 mm filament, with Bowden tubes adapted for those and a rear motor, i.e. the motor is on the back on the printer and not right on top of the print head.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I personally wouldn't consider Nylon as one of the really flexible material, but that's my opinion. Never had kinking in the Bowden tube with Nylon either in my UM3E.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12917" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-10-07T20:37:27.473" LastActivityDate="2018-10-07T20:37:27.473" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7130" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7132" CreationDate="2018-10-07T08:08:17.160" Score="4" ViewCount="7329" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been searching for a reassuring answer for a week now. What type of mini USB does the Creality Ender 3 need? I have studied about them and five pin seems to be the answer but I haven't found a reassuring answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If anyone knows the answer would you please inform me?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13153" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-10-07T08:25:11.847" LastActivityDate="2018-10-07T09:46:58.993" Title="Does the Ender 3 need an 8 pin mini USB or 5 pin, or no difference?" Tags="|creality-ender-3|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7131" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7153" CreationDate="2018-10-07T09:24:54.037" Score="5" ViewCount="5582" Body="&lt;p&gt;When exporting an STL from Fusion 360, one must select an STL refinement level to use for calculating the maximum triangle count. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For FDM printing (&lt;em&gt;0.05mm and above layer heights&lt;/em&gt;), where is the point of diminishing returns on STL refinement level when printing PLA and PETG on an Ender 3 with a 0.4mm nozzle? All mechanical components on the printer are stock.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/z9cgx.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/z9cgx.png&quot; alt=&quot;Refinement quality&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12377" LastEditorUserId="12377" LastEditDate="2018-10-09T17:31:52.517" LastActivityDate="2019-09-08T15:56:02.897" Title="What is the point of diminishing returns on the STL refinement level in Fusion 360 on an Ender 3?" Tags="|cad|stl|creality-ender-3|fusion360|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7132" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7130" CreationDate="2018-10-07T09:38:39.513" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;The ender 3 follows the USB standard for a &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/USB#Receptacle_(socket)_identification&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;USB-2.0/2.0 revised 5 pin USB-Mini-B&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To prove, a picture of it. Left, you can clearly count the 5 pins that conform to the standard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/b4tc7.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/b4tc7.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Ender-3 front&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;as a side note: There is no 8 pin USB-Mini - Mini has the T-shape. In fact, there is not even a USB standard conform plug that has 8-pins! The standard allows only 4, 5, 9, 11 and 24 pins&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2018-10-07T09:46:58.993" LastActivityDate="2018-10-07T09:46:58.993" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7133" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2018-10-07T11:02:32.773" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Fusion 360 is a paid and &lt;a href=&quot;https://knowledge.autodesk.com/support/fusion-360/troubleshooting/caas/sfdcarticles/sfdcarticles/Do-I-qualify-for-free-use-of-Fusion-360.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;free for non-commercial, small business and hobbyist&lt;/a&gt; CAD tool developed by &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.autodesk.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;AutoDesk&lt;/a&gt;. More details &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.autodesk.com/products/fusion-360/overview&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12377" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-10-26T05:24:54.993" LastActivityDate="2018-10-26T05:24:54.993" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7134" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2018-10-07T11:02:32.773" Score="0" Body="For CAD related questions specific to the use of Fusion 360 by Autodesk" OwnerUserId="4927" LastEditorUserId="150" LastEditDate="2018-10-26T07:38:20.507" LastActivityDate="2018-10-26T07:38:20.507" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7135" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7122" CreationDate="2018-10-07T13:13:37.590" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have printed kilometers of PETG and found the sweet-spot for my brand to be 240 &amp;deg;C for the hotend and 70 &amp;deg;C for the build plate (for my Ultimaker 3 that is, the extruder temp is 5 &amp;deg;C higher for my home build HyperCube Evolution). The reason for the 70 &amp;deg;C is that the glass temperature of PETG is around 70 &amp;deg;C. The PETG is flexible at that temperature such that there are no stresses because of shrinkage causing the PETG to keep attached to the heat bed surface (aluminium, glass, Buildtak, etc.). A little PVA based glue (stick) or spray (hair or specific print sprays) can even further improve the adhesion. A slow first layer also helps adhering better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that the hotend temperature should be calibrated to the speed you are printing. If you print faster, a higher hotend tempearture is required. To determine the sweet spot for your filament you can print typical calibration towers that can be found on e.g. &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/search?q=temperature%20tower&amp;amp;dwh=125bba06b7b88c7&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Thingiverse&lt;/a&gt;. Note that you need to manually change the G-code file after slicing of the tower or use plugins of your slicer to change the temperature at a certain level.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Furthermore, PETG does not like to be cooled by the print fan, so keep cooling fan rpm low to prevent layers not to bond (else you get a sort of string cheese print).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I use parametric stair case style calibration prints that include the slicer print settings that are to determine the best settings for temperature, print cooling, layer size and print speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ERWy6.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ERWy6.png&quot; alt=&quot;Heat tower front view&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wYWOC.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wYWOC.png&quot; alt=&quot;Heat tower backside view&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-11-02T07:57:23.580" LastActivityDate="2018-11-02T07:57:23.580" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7136" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7124" CreationDate="2018-10-07T15:25:07.777" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Very wise to change the firmware of the stock Anet A8. The stock firmware does not have thermal runaway protection which Marlin Firmware does have. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should be able to print equivalent or slightly better with Marlin Firmware as you can tweak it better/easier than the closed firmware clone of Repetier that is originally loaded onto the board. My A8 runs perfectly fine on 1.1.9.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To identify if this is over-extrusion, you need to check out the settings of the steps per millimeters that are defined in your &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/blob/1.1.x/Marlin/example_configurations/Anet/A8/Configuration.h&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;configuration.h&lt;/a&gt; file:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;/**&#xA; * Default Axis Steps Per Unit (steps/mm)&#xA; * Override with M92&#xA; *                                      X, Y, Z, E0 [, E1[, E2[, E3[, E4]]]]&#xA; */&#xA;#define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT   { 100, 100, 400, 100 }&#xA;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Furthermore, rather than calculating the flow reduction, you could &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/q/6483/5740&quot;&gt;calibrate your extruder&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the images it it hard to say whether this is over extrusion or not, it does look like it is printed at a high temperature. Please update the question to include print material and print settings (hot end temperature).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2018-10-07T15:25:07.777" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7137" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2018-10-07T22:27:03.880" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;For questions about flexible filaments like TPU, ninjaflex, etc...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12917" LastEditorUserId="12917" LastEditDate="2018-10-08T04:10:17.253" LastActivityDate="2018-10-08T04:10:17.253" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7138" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2018-10-07T22:27:03.880" Score="0" Body="For questions about flexible filaments." OwnerUserId="12917" LastEditorUserId="12917" LastEditDate="2018-10-08T04:10:27.173" LastActivityDate="2018-10-08T04:10:27.173" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7139" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7016" CreationDate="2018-10-08T00:52:13.117" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;What I ended up doing was using the settings from the cat.gcode that came with the printer. It has a retraction of 10&amp;nbsp;mm specified, which I thought was a bit much, but if it works, it works.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13073" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-01-24T10:07:49.393" LastActivityDate="2019-01-24T10:07:49.393" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7140" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7152" CreationDate="2018-10-08T19:40:38.577" Score="7" ViewCount="5386" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am trying to create a mechanism with moving parts, and would like to see how it works (whether it even works) before printing it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, there's a servo with a bracket, and I would like to see how far can the bracket move before colliding with other objects.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mlheh.gif&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mlheh.gif&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately I cannot find any information on how to set pivot points and rotate objects around these points in FreeCAD. Is this even possible?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13165" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-10-08T21:58:09.023" LastActivityDate="2019-09-03T10:31:17.013" Title="FreeCAD to design moving parts" Tags="|3d-design|mechanics|freecad|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7141" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2018-10-08T20:15:34.030" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2018-10-08T20:15:34.030" LastActivityDate="2018-10-08T20:15:34.030" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7142" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2018-10-08T20:15:34.030" Score="0" Body="Thermoplastic polyurethane, class of polyurethane plastic with good elastic properties. Type of TPE plastic." OwnerUserId="12377" LastEditorUserId="12377" LastEditDate="2018-10-09T00:22:16.797" LastActivityDate="2018-10-09T00:22:16.797" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7143" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2018-10-08T20:19:19.167" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Polypropylene (PP), also known as &lt;code&gt;polypropene&lt;/code&gt;, is a thermoplastic polymer used in a wide variety of applications. It is produced via chain-growth polymerization from the monomer &lt;code&gt;propylene&lt;/code&gt;. Polypropylene belongs to the group of polyolefins and is partially crystalline and non-polar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Characterized by low density (0.895-0.92 g/cm³) and it's toughness and flexibility. More details &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Polypropylene&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12377" LastEditorUserId="150" LastEditDate="2018-10-25T11:18:46.553" LastActivityDate="2018-10-25T11:18:46.553" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7144" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2018-10-08T20:19:19.167" Score="0" Body="Polypropylene, thermoplastic polymer produced from propylene monomers." OwnerUserId="12377" LastEditorUserId="12377" LastEditDate="2018-10-09T00:21:58.440" LastActivityDate="2018-10-09T00:21:58.440" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7145" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6746" CreationDate="2018-10-08T22:17:16.120" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The fact that the temperature reading stays steady while heating and changes once it stops heating makes me thing that you might have a short between your heater wires and sensor wires or somehow have them interconnected. Especially if it shows the same temperature when it's actually below 110°C and heating but shows correct when not heating. I would try to separate the heater wires from the sensor wires and make sure they are not touching, also check that the sensor wires are not touching the heating block.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12989" LastActivityDate="2018-10-08T22:17:16.120" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7146" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5174" CreationDate="2018-10-08T22:25:39.203" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can send the G Codes to select and print a file over the serial connection. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;List the files&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;M20&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Select a file name&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;M23 filename.gco&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Start/Resue the print&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;M24&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See &lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/wiki/G-code&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://reprap.org/wiki/G-code&lt;/a&gt; for more information M20 through M39 are the ones for interfacing with SD Card files.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12989" LastActivityDate="2018-10-08T22:25:39.203" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7148" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7149" CreationDate="2018-10-09T14:48:35.313" Score="4" ViewCount="2426" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was recently told I should probably update my printer's firmware from the current version (ANET_A8_20160701V2.0) to Marlin (going to use v1.1.9). To do this, I dutifully downloaded both Pronterface and RepetierHost trying to connect with either one of them to my printer. I've checked the Device Mangler (Manager) and found the USB does connect and is recognized on COM5, yet neither software are connecting. The software sees COM5 as active as well, but I get back an error stating &quot;access is denied&quot; for some reason. &lt;strong&gt;What might I be doing wrong?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11242" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-10-09T14:59:49.910" LastActivityDate="2018-10-09T14:59:49.910" Title="Issues with connecting Pronterface to Anet A8 printer" Tags="|anet-a8|pronterface|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7149" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7148" CreationDate="2018-10-09T14:48:35.313" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;After some trial and error, I discovered you need to &lt;strong&gt;set the baud rate to 115200&lt;/strong&gt; in the printer settings. I went through and tried each of the baud settings available until it connected. Glad I started with Pronterface, as RepetierHost has a lot longer baud list :o) Setting the baud rate is not inuitive as to the issue, as getting back &quot;access denied&quot; to me implied something else was going on. After that, was able to run direct commands to the printer through the USB port without issues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11242" LastActivityDate="2018-10-09T14:48:35.313" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7150" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7151" CreationDate="2018-10-09T16:50:52.423" Score="4" ViewCount="407" Body="&lt;p&gt;Have a Monoprice maker select with a Micro Swiss hotend, and am using Cura IIIP.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit&lt;/strong&gt;: plus &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.janbex.eu&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Janbex&lt;/a&gt; PLA 1.75mm filament.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Trying to print a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:128617&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Pi camera mount&lt;/a&gt;, but am getting (I believe) under extrusion, as seen here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ccx0N.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ccx0N.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My Cura settings are these.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ryZw9.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ryZw9.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anybody see any obvious problems? What should I try to change?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit&lt;/strong&gt;: have played around with different temperatures, and some other settings (eg the filament diameter), but lost track of the reasons. Was following various instructions on web pages.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9201" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-12-10T06:20:14.950" LastActivityDate="2019-12-10T06:20:14.950" Title="Under extrusion, looking for specific information" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|extrusion|monoprice-maker-select|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7151" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7150" CreationDate="2018-10-09T18:48:17.297" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your filament is &lt;code&gt;1.75 mm&lt;/code&gt;, but you specified &lt;code&gt;1.6 mm&lt;/code&gt; in the &lt;code&gt;Filament&lt;/code&gt; option &lt;code&gt;Diameter (mm)&lt;/code&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Furthermore, your layer thickness is very small (&lt;code&gt;0.06 mm&lt;/code&gt;), why not try &lt;code&gt;0.20 mm&lt;/code&gt; first; a thicker layer will cause a higher extrusion flow. It could be that the print speed is too high for the low layer size.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your initial layer &lt;code&gt;0.3 mm&lt;/code&gt; is also high, the maximum for a &lt;code&gt;0.4 mm&lt;/code&gt; nozzle. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sub&gt;Why did you change so many parameters? The standard values work pretty well.&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2018-10-09T18:48:17.297" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7152" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7140" CreationDate="2018-10-09T22:34:57.993" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;freeCad has a draft rotate function in &lt;strong&gt;DRAFT workbench&lt;/strong&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Select an object;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Press the Draft Rotate button, then;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Click to set the rotating point and rotate. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will get used to that after a few trails.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.freecadweb.org/wiki/Draft_Rotate&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;step by step guide&lt;/a&gt; on freeCad site.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is also a &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/5KDEf16MNc0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;short demo of the function here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9730" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-10-11T18:08:37.123" LastActivityDate="2018-10-11T18:08:37.123" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7153" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7131" CreationDate="2018-10-09T22:46:53.617" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't know that this can be definitively answered for a specific printer and all arbitrary designs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The refinement level basically determines how smooth a curved surface will turn out.  The STL file format can only express an object in terms of triangular-shaped surfaces, so Fusion 360 will need to approximate a curved surface by breaking it up into triangles. Flat surfaces and straight edges can be represented perfectly, so they won't be affected. Low refinement will use a small number of relatively large triangles. On a part like your example, the cylindrical shaft will have noticeable facets. Higher refinement means a larger number of smaller triangles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have &quot;Preview Mesh&quot; checked as shown, you will be able to see the triangle wireframe, and you can use your own judgment if it's &quot;good enough&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ultimately, higher refinement means longer processing times and larger file sizes. The final print time won't be affected much if any.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally, I always use high refinement. Even on my modest system, it only takes a few more seconds to prepare a multi-hour print, and maybe a few hundred kilobytes or a couple megabytes on my hard drive that I will barely notice. This is a small tradeoff to ensure the best possible STL definition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5704" LastActivityDate="2018-10-09T22:46:53.617" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7154" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-10-10T04:48:24.960" Score="0" ViewCount="1600" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I have an image like the one attached, what’s the best way to create an accurate depth map of it? I have photoshop CC and 3ds Max, but I don’t know what settings work best with Slic3r. There is a plethora of settings and combinations to choose from in either programs. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Did anyone do this before? If so, can you share your technique?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9wbEP.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10466" LastEditorUserId="10466" LastEditDate="2018-10-10T04:58:03.273" LastActivityDate="2018-10-23T20:32:14.357" Title="What is the best way to print a coin with depth map?" Tags="|3d-models|slic3r|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2018-10-30T19:22:47.320" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7155" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7154" CreationDate="2018-10-10T06:47:53.217" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;From a single image from this perspective (front view) you cannot map the coin surface in detail. There is reported limited success in estimating the depth of single images, but, this is for images with a clear perspective (e.g. like a picture of a room showing the walls and floor at an angle). In order to map the surface you will need to have multiple images and preferably know the direction of lighting on that object.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;People with one eye cannot estimate depth very well, you need two eyes and a trained brain to understand the differences in depth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2018-10-10T06:47:53.217" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7156" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7121" CreationDate="2018-10-10T08:58:23.707" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Please note &lt;strong&gt;this is not a full answer&lt;/strong&gt;, but it &lt;strong&gt;does address a problem pointed out in the question&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The linked file does contain some strange information. Although in the comments it is said to use a layer thickness of 0.2 mm, see:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;;   layerHeight,0.2&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;with a first layer being 90% of this size:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;;   firstLayerHeightPercentage,90&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;it actually does not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The actual sliced layers are measured in 0.5 mm and 0.222 mm and 0.45 mm for the first layer!?! The first layer is at:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;G1 Z0.450 F1000&#xA;; process Process1&#xA;; layer 1, Z = 0.450&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;the next layer is 0.5 mm, so 0.95 for layer 2:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;; layer 2, Z = 0.950&#xA;M106 S255&#xA;G1 X65.347 Y84.268 F4800&#xA;G1 Z0.950 F1000&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And then it becomes strange, &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;; layer 3, Z = 1.172&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;for layer 3 (so a 0.222 mm layer height), and 0.222 mm for layer 4 and so forth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a pretty odd sliced file, which basically is not possible to be printed with a 0.4 mm nozzle (you should never exceed a layer height of about 75% of the nozzle width, so max. 0.3 mm for a 0.4 mm nozzle).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know the firmware, but I find it hard to believe that the firmware knows what kind of nozzle is present (although Ultimaker does know that with their nozzle core concept they launched from the Ultimaker 3 series). It could be that your firmware does know the nozzle size and does not let you print these layer sizes. It is therefore recommended to reslice the print and other objects and take a closer look at the G-code files.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2018-10-10T08:58:23.707" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7157" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3098" CreationDate="2018-10-10T10:12:29.130" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;All you have to do is submerge your sample of glass into mineral oil. If it seems to disappear, it's borosilicate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13180" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-10-10T10:44:10.237" LastActivityDate="2018-10-10T10:44:10.237" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7158" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7154" CreationDate="2018-10-10T10:56:58.970" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I designed a coin to use as a tokens for a RPG. I decided to make it from scratch instead of making a height map. I tried two different approaches. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Smooth height changes&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found a 3D model of the head I wanted to use on my coin. Then I cut it in two, and placed on of the pieces flat side on top of the coin. I then flattened the head to make it more appropriate for a coin. When I sliced it whit the layer height supported by my printer I noticed that I lost too much of the details in the head. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Layered height changes&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found a picture of the head I wanted to use and drew outline of the different parts of the head that I wanted to include. I then added each drawing with a different thickness to the coin. This gave me a clear drawing on the coin, and is what I ended up printing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OJexW.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OJexW.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Final coins both sides in different material&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Printing&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I printed the coins standing up. 2 of my 42 coins failed because the coin fell over during print. I printed 4 and 4 coins at the time, on placed in each corner of the print surface. I finished one entire coin before starting the next. &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jjXf6.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jjXf6.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Printing position&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6778" LastActivityDate="2018-10-10T10:56:58.970" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7159" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7160" CreationDate="2018-10-10T16:09:05.737" Score="4" ViewCount="841" Body="&lt;p&gt;Assume somebody has a Monoprice Maker Select and has changed from the original brass extruder gear to a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.wanhaouk.com/products/extruder-drive-gear&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;D4 Plus&lt;/a&gt; one, which is slightly smaller (10.6 vs 10.9 mm outer diameter).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This person might be wondering if he/she needs to compensate for this difference, and which setting that would be in Cura IIIP.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Have never calibrated the extruder and am still not sure it is absolutely necessary, since the difference in the gear size is only 3%.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9201" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-12-10T06:19:57.590" LastActivityDate="2019-12-10T06:19:57.590" Title="Compensating for smaller extruder gear" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|extruder|wanhao|monoprice-maker-select|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2018-10-23T12:04:19.147" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7160" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7159" CreationDate="2018-10-10T17:32:57.700" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you change the extruder wheel for a different sized wheel, you need to calibrate the extruder to make sure that if you ask to extrude 100 mm it actually extrudes 100 mm. &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/6484/5740&quot;&gt;This answer&lt;/a&gt; on the question &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/q/6483/5740&quot;&gt;How do I calibrate the extruder of my printer?&lt;/a&gt;&quot; describes how to do that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is not required to flash your firmware. The G-code command &lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#M92:_Set_axis_steps_per_unit&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;code&gt;M92&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/a&gt; can be used to set the new amount of steps for the extruder. The Monoprice Maker Select has a Melzi control board that is running Repetier firmware. This G-code command is supported by Repetier firmware.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You need to be able to connect a so-called terminal to your printer. Applications as Repetier-Host, Pronterface, OctoPrint, and probably many more have so-called terminals where you can interface with the printer by sending command to it when the printer is connected through USB (please mind the communication speed of the board, called Baud rate, these are not the same for all boards).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sending &lt;code&gt;M503&lt;/code&gt; will report the current settings for &lt;code&gt;M92&lt;/code&gt;, e.g.:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;M92 X100.00 Y100.00 Z400.00 E100.00&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Extrude 100 mm without the hotend attached so you can measure the amount that is extruded. If that is 80 mm you need more steps &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$ \frac{100\ mm}{80\ mm} \times 100\ steps/mm = 125\ steps/mm $&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You now need to send &lt;code&gt;M92 E125&lt;/code&gt; and the new steps are set. Use &lt;code&gt;M500&lt;/code&gt; to store the setting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could also change the flow extrusion parameter in your slicer, but it generally not good practice, it is better to fix the printer rather than adjusting in the slicer. However, if you do want to fix it in the slicer, as mentioned in the comments, you can also add steps setting in the start G-code script: &lt;em&gt;&quot;To get around flashing the new values to the ROM, you can add this to the machine settings in Cura under &quot;Start Gcode&quot; this way it will append your values at the start of every print.&quot;&lt;/em&gt;. Note that other slicers have similar functionality.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-10-11T07:27:16.140" LastActivityDate="2018-10-11T07:27:16.140" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7161" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7159" CreationDate="2018-10-10T17:33:32.527" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;This will affect your extrusion rate. The best place to change this would be in your E steps located in the firmware but you can also compensate for this by changing the flow percentage in Cura, a setting of 103% (10.9/10.6) should get you close.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="233" LastActivityDate="2018-10-10T17:33:32.527" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7162" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-10-10T22:05:24.947" Score="5" ViewCount="8109" Body="&lt;p&gt;A Monoprice Maker Select V2, upgraded incrementally with a &lt;a href=&quot;https://store.micro-swiss.com/products/all-metal-hotend-with-slotted-cooling-block-for-wanhao-i3&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Micro Swiss all metal hot-end&lt;/a&gt;, machined lever, and &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.wanhaouk.com/products/extruder-drive-gear&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;D4 extruder gear&lt;/a&gt;, systematically fails to produce complete prints, as seen below:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fQC1C.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Incomplete prints&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fQC1C.png&quot; alt=&quot;Incomplete prints&quot; title=&quot;Incomplete prints&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The following observations can be made.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The nozzle clog appears at different heights/elapsed times, so it does not seem to be because of heat creep, which ought to take the same time to take effect, each time.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;All the clogs so far have been easy to clear manually, once the hotend has been made accessible.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The filament (1.75&amp;nbsp;mm PLA) is quite new, has only been sitting on the spool at the top of the printer, seems regular in density, is not visibly damaged etc.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;In the original configuration, before the upgrading, the printer worked fine for some months.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One possible explanation might be inconsistent temperature in the extruder, but the display does not show any great variation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any other theories? These latest prints were made at 210&amp;nbsp;°C.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The nozzle clogging was verified, each time, by trying to extrude using the printer controls; and then cleaned manually by taking off the &quot;cold end&quot; part, heating the extruder, and pressing the remaining filament out by hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not so long ago the nozzle was cleaned with ethyl acetate and a needle, so I do not believe carbon build-up is the explanation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cura settings:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0b6Tz.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Cura settings&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0b6Tz.png&quot; alt=&quot;Cura settings&quot; title=&quot;Cura settings&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9201" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-12-10T06:19:19.587" LastActivityDate="2022-06-30T12:04:05.660" Title="Apparently systematic nozzle clogging" Tags="|extruder|monoprice-maker-select|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7163" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-10-10T23:03:56.923" Score="7" ViewCount="398" Body="&lt;p&gt;I got my first printer, a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.amazon.de/dp/B075FQRNY3/ref=pe_3044161_189395811_TE_SCE_3p_dp_1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Geeetech Prusa i3&lt;/a&gt;, and for the price I paid (160$) I am so blown away. As I saved so much money, I treated myself to a legit copy of Simplify3D, which I am happy with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm using white PLA filament (supposedly 1.75&amp;nbsp;mm) with a 0.3&amp;nbsp;mm nozzle. The hotend temperature range is 215-240&amp;nbsp;°C and the bed is usually at 90&amp;nbsp;°C (with hairspray it gives a nice shiny solid bottom surface). My goal is to print with 0.3, or with 0.2 if 0.3 is to big for the nozzle (ideally a 0.3 nozzle can print 0.3 layer height).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The problem:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems that, especially on the first layer with bigger prints, or any layer that continuously pulls filament through the nozzle (outside lining of a layer), the amount of filament that gets &quot;printed out&quot; isn't enough compared to the amount of filament that is pushed in by the extruder gear. This, in my theory right now, causes the new filament to stay in place until the melted plastic in the nozzle is used, which then makes room again for more filament to be pushed through. Until this happens, the gear slips/clicks and can't pull anymore filament.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The mechanics seem to work well, and I don't think the nozzle is clogged. I would guess that some settings need to be manually adjusted to keep the amount of filament pushed through the nozzle equal or less than the amount the nozzle can actually push through, but what is weird to me is that this happens semi-randomly. I have searched online and the issue intermittently appears with other people, but I haven't found a solution yet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;What settings would I need to test?&lt;/em&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a link to &lt;a href=&quot;https://1drv.ms/f/s!AnDfnxILoXLp9TWV9u0Ue1OEW1cL&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;some current successful prints and a layer mess up example(batman bust)&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My biggest print so far (Batman Bust) is amazing, but even here you can see certain layers where the gear couldn't push filament through and the gear skipped a few clicks, causing it to print less when it was suppose to print on the following instructions. This happens a lot more, but when it happens during an infill you obviously can't see it from the outside. The individual layer-height seems maybe a bit too small (0.1 for batman), and the times where the extruder usually skips and clicks appear when I print bigger sizes (0.2 and 0.3). I want to start printing more complex and bigger things, so using 0.1 seems like an overkill in detail and takes way too long.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My filament is the generic Geeetech white PLA that I ordered together with the printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13185" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-10-15T07:02:22.160" LastActivityDate="2018-10-15T13:04:41.847" Title="Geeetech Prusa i3 Extruder seems to push more filament, gear slips/skips?" Tags="|extruder|nozzle|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7164" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-10-11T04:59:09.977" Score="4" ViewCount="422" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I was notified by Cura that 3.5 was out, I looked at the changelog, and I installed the new version. It worked normally for a time, until once when I went to launch it and &lt;code&gt;cura.exe&lt;/code&gt; forever sat idle in task manager doing nothing. I reinstalled Cura 3.5 and tried again. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That then worked for some time, maybe another couple days, and then the same thing happened again. Rince and repeat, maybe for a few more cycles. Now, Cura 3.5 doesn't like to do anything even fresh out of the box. Restarting the computer does nothing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've looked at the &lt;code&gt;cura.log&lt;/code&gt; file in &lt;code&gt;AppData/Roaming/cura&lt;/code&gt; and found a peculiar line:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;code&gt;...&#xA;2018-10-10 21:49:33,591 - INFO - [MainThread] UM.VersionUpgradeManager._upgradeFile [369]: Upgraded .\fdmextruder+%232_user.inst.cfg to version 4000005.&#xA;2018-10-10 21:49:33,605 - DEBUG - [MainThread] UM.Backend.Backend._logSocketState [178]: Socket state changed to Listening&#xA;2018-10-10 21:49:33,650 - INFO - [MainThread] UM.Backend.Backend.startEngine [74]: Started engine process: C:\Program Files\Ultimaker Cura 3.5\CuraEngine.exe&#xA;2018-10-10 21:49:33,652 - DEBUG - [MainThread] UM.Backend.Backend._backendLog [94]: [Backend] Calling engine with: ['C:\\Program Files\\Ultimaker Cura 3.5\\CuraEngine.exe', 'connect', '127.0.0.1:49674', '-j', 'C:\\Program Files\\Ultimaker Cura 3.5\\resources\\definitions\\fdmprinter.def.json', '']&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It looks as if the issue is when the Cura GUI tries to connect to its backend slicing engine. Is my analysis correct? Is this a known issue/is there a known fix?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm going to try to report this to Ultimaker if nothing comes up here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12377" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-10-11T08:50:10.790" LastActivityDate="2018-10-11T08:50:10.790" Title="Cura 3.5 doesn't launch repeatably" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7165" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7127" CreationDate="2018-10-11T05:12:16.660" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;To also validate the first answer, I have been printing with TPU95A for a number of years and it has been one of the most reliable materials to use. The strength of the product alongside the flex makes it a test and production based outcome with fewer issues. My printer for the most part of this experience was the Ultimaker 2+ that has a similar set up to the UM3 with a more traditional hot end.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cautions: Some older material profiles have the heatbed at 60c. I have always had better outcomes from room temp (no heat on the bed). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13188" LastActivityDate="2018-10-11T05:12:16.660" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7166" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7164" CreationDate="2018-10-11T06:38:49.940" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Issues like these are not new, I have experienced similar issues (see e.g. &lt;a href=&quot;https://community.ultimaker.com/topic/21274-make-cura-work-again-32-wont-run-either/?tab=comments#comment-198404&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;this topic&lt;/a&gt;, but more can be found) with an installation of an older version. At the moment of writing there is already a &lt;a href=&quot;https://community.ultimaker.com/topic/24800-cura-350-wont-load-under-windows-10/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;reported&lt;/a&gt; issue with Ultimaker Cura 3.5.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is generally best to mention problems with a specific software application at the developers own forum or tech support. This will catch a more specific type of users as well as the developers themselves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A workaround, but not a definite solution, is to remove the settings (on the Windows platform these files are located in &lt;code&gt;AppData/Roaming/cura&lt;/code&gt;) that Ultimaker Cura uses and remove prior installations and do a fresh re-install of 3.5 and see if this works. Just rename the directory to e.g. &lt;code&gt;AppData/Roaming/cura_old&lt;/code&gt;, this way you can always go back.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The drawback of this solution is that all material profiles and printer setups are lost as you start completely new. This is not a problem if you have a single printer and no custom materials defined, but in my case it was a lot of work to get all profiles back. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These issues could be related to the profile settings and storage model, which, at the time of the older installations was not very stable. A new material model was required, if that has been replaced is still a question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2018-10-11T06:38:49.940" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7167" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7163" CreationDate="2018-10-11T06:50:34.207" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;A nozzle with a nozzle &lt;strong&gt;width&lt;/strong&gt; of 0.3 mm cannot print a 0.3 mm layer &lt;strong&gt;height&lt;/strong&gt;. You &lt;em&gt;could&lt;/em&gt; do that but you &lt;em&gt;should&lt;/em&gt; not as you ultimately pay the price in the form of a less aesthetic finish. The general rule of thumb is to maximize the layer height at 75 % of the nozzle width, so a 0.3 mm nozzle would allow for a maximum of 0.225 mm. The rationale is that the filament leaves the nozzle as a tube and needs to be flattened to make it flat and adhere to the previous layer, too high layer heights increase the pressure in the nozzle (more filament is needed) causing a less than ideal extrusion and cause the extruder to skip; this is identified by observing a distinct &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/search?tab=newest&amp;amp;q=extruder%20click&quot;&gt;clicking&lt;/a&gt; noise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please lower your layer height (try 0.2 mm) and decrease the printing speed to see if this works better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Furthermore, for PLA, temperatures for the hotend (unless you have some sort of a special PLA filament) and the bed temperature are too high. Please aim to print PLA at about 200 &amp;deg;C with a bed temperature of 50 - 60 &amp;deg;C.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-10-15T13:04:41.847" LastActivityDate="2018-10-15T13:04:41.847" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7168" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7131" CreationDate="2018-10-11T07:31:42.670" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;STL file size should not matter these days as far as the memory and storage sizes are concerned. These are generally large enough (unless you have very large and complicated STL files of large dimensions), so saving an STL in low or high resolution should usually be a matter of megabytes. However, the higher the resolution the more processor calculation time is needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fusion 360 defines the STL generation through 3 predefined settings from a coarse to a fine setting. Indeed, coarse settings may result in poor resolution regarding curved surfaces. If the resolution is more coarse than the print resolution, you will definitely see this in your sliced print as you can identify the triangles of which the STL file consists of.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as there is no clear objective &lt;code&gt;point of diminishing returns&lt;/code&gt;, the question cannot be answered. But, slicing with a higher resolution than print resolution does not seem sensible, it creates larger files which cannot be printed to that level of detail. But there is no downfall other than larger storage space and computation speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2018-10-11T07:31:42.670" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7169" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7162" CreationDate="2018-10-11T08:22:22.303" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Micro Swiss hotend uses an all metal hotend. These type of hotends are more difficult to operate considering they do not have a Teflon liner that shields the filament from heat exchange from the cold end (the Teflon/PTFE tube acts as an insulator). From &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.proto-pasta.com/blogs/how-to/avoid-clogs-with-pla-composites-and-all-metal-hotends&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this article&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Jams and clogs are often from a combination of excessive heat and&#xA;non-optimal material flow. This effect is worsened by poorly cooled&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;all-metal hot ends, high torque extruder gears&lt;/strong&gt;, small nozzles/layers,&#xA;slow printing speeds, too thin first layer, and excessive retraction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bold faced text in the quote sums up what is causing this. A smaller gear requires more force/torque as the arm i.e. the radius is smaller.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The article describes what steps you could do to alleviate the problem. Of all the suggestions, &lt;em&gt;&amp;quot;&lt;strong&gt;Minimize retraction&lt;/strong&gt;&amp;quot;&lt;/em&gt;, seems a possible candidate for you to look into considering the posted print settings. As this is a heat related problem it is advised to also &lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;increase your printing speeds&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt;, these are pretty low (30 mm/s for slow and 60 mm/s for normal printing) and also &lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;check the cooling of the &amp;quot;cold end&amp;quot;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt; (the fan that cools the radiator fins). Also &lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;reduce the printing temperature&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt;, 210 °C is pretty high for PLA filament, personally I don't go over 200 °C (note that this depends on your filament, but most PLA brands can be printed in the 185 - 195 °C range).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You have a pretty large retraction specified. The Ultimaker default is 6.5 mm is considered to be large, but works perfectly for Ultimaker machines (read Bowden tube setup). In my Ultimaker 3E which uses all metal hotends, or, in my custom HyperCube Evolution, also Bowden, but with a lined hotend, 6.5 mm retraction works perfectly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please look into &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/2632/5740&quot;&gt;this answer&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/2622/5740&quot;&gt;this answer&lt;/a&gt;. Both describe that the retraction performance is worse with all metal hotends. My experiences are exactly the same with metal hotends, at least the cheaper production ones (I tested cheap all metal hotends, but also ran into problems because of production and design errors, I have not tried the better quality heat breaks/throats yet).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please lower the retraction setting considerably to see if it has an effect. The Monoprice Maker Select uses a direct drive. Direct drive extruders do not need a large retraction length setting. If the filament is hot in the throat (as there is no PTFE lining that in fact acts as an insulator), too large of a retraction may not be reversed when the filament cooles during the retraction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think you might be experiencing what is described in &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/q/5968/5740&quot;&gt;this question&lt;/a&gt;: &amp;quot;&lt;em&gt;Extruder prints fine up until further down the print&lt;/em&gt;&amp;quot;. &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/6469/5740&quot;&gt;This answer&lt;/a&gt; describes issues of the metal heat breaks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To comment on your statement in comments above, I am not suggesting you should use a liner in your current extruder. I'm pointing out the differences. Metal hotends are just more tricky to operate regarding retraction and heat management.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2022-06-30T12:04:05.660" LastActivityDate="2022-06-30T12:04:05.660" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7170" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7162" CreationDate="2018-10-11T08:49:44.223" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are several reasons why the nozzles can clog. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Temperature:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you set the temperature too low, the force to push the filament through the nozzle gets up. This can lead to filament grinding and this can lead to clogging. If you set the temperature too high while not extruding, the filament can degrade, which may lead to clogging. So always test the temperature and viscosity by manual pushing filament through the nozzle. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Nozzle Size:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many users do not like to change the nozzle but for many filaments 0.4 mm is not advisable. Try 0.6 mm. The print quality is nearly the same @ similar layer sizes, print time goes down a bit and the likelyhood for clogging is close to zero. Reason is that the flow resistance is proportional to r^4.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Grind dust/traction force -&gt; Retraction:&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suggest a max of 2 mm to 2.5 mm for direct extruders. Higher values bring no benefit and lead to filament grinding. Bowden Extruders can use values &gt; 5 mm due to bending sometimes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Feeder Spring&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sometimes the spring of the feeder loses tension over time, thus the filement is not pushed forward and instead, grinded down. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Feeder Gear&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another problem can be related with the pushing gear of the feeder (which you mount on the motor). I use gears with fewer theeth. They produce traction force and stay clean from grinding dust. Gears with many small teeth become dusty and produce less traction force.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10847" LastEditorUserId="10847" LastEditDate="2018-10-24T07:58:50.863" LastActivityDate="2018-10-24T07:58:50.863" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7172" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-10-12T11:44:48.550" Score="4" ViewCount="2280" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have attached a dual extruder (2 in 2 out) to my 3D printer. There is a repeating problem of clogging while printing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have fixed Chimera hotend. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KSP5e.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KSP5e.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;https://photos.app.goo.gl/KeWxTCGc5HN1Nqx46&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A big fan, which covers area more than the double extruder, cools both cold ends. An additional fan directly on the front (as seen in the picture) cold end cools the ribs directly. The back does not have an additional fan.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried to print after attaching an extra fan; the first print went well but from there on, the hotend gets clogged every time I print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The clogging happens in melt zone. I have tried cleaning the hot-end, but to no avail...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My settings are as below:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Print speed = 60mm/sec&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Temperature = 210C&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Filament material = PLA&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Filament diameter = 1.75,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Nozzle Diameter = 0.4&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Dual extrusion switch amount = 16.5mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Retraction speed = 40mm/sec,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Retraction Distance = 4.5mm,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Disabled Wipe and Prime tower and ooze shield&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please advise what to do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12765" LastEditorUserId="12765" LastEditDate="2018-10-15T08:40:32.600" LastActivityDate="2018-10-18T21:24:40.173" Title="Dual extruder clogging problem" Tags="|extruder|diy-3d-printer|hotend|reprap|dual-nozzle|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7173" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4646" CreationDate="2018-10-12T11:56:14.950" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have no experience with either GRBL or DLP printers, but the&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;M7&#xA;M8&#xA;M9&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;coolant control codes should be able to be sent by NanoDLP to GRBL. Those seem to allow for direct digital output.&#xA;Apparently you can set the pin you want them to use in the &lt;code&gt;cpu_map.h&lt;/code&gt; file, with the standard being Analog Pins 3 and 4 for the M8 and M7 commands respectively.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;// Define flood and mist coolant enable output pins. &#xA;#define COOLANT_FLOOD_DDR   DDRC &#xA;#define COOLANT_FLOOD_PORT  PORTC &#xA;#define COOLANT_FLOOD_BIT   3  // Uno Analog Pin 3 &#xA;#define COOLANT_MIST_DDR   DDRC &#xA;#define COOLANT_MIST_PORT  PORTC &#xA;#define COOLANT_MIST_BIT   4  // Uno Analog Pin 4 &#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps!&#xA;Source: &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/gnea/grbl&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://github.com/gnea/grbl&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13171" LastEditorUserId="13171" LastEditDate="2018-10-15T06:27:34.220" LastActivityDate="2018-10-15T06:27:34.220" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7175" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6744" CreationDate="2018-10-13T08:53:10.967" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I actually thought the problem is in the electronic circuit but the problem is the baud rate. I initially took the baud rate as 115200 but later. after someone's suggestion, I changed it to 250000 and now it's fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12765" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-10-13T16:30:01.910" LastActivityDate="2018-10-13T16:30:01.910" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7176" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7163" CreationDate="2018-10-13T19:25:43.250" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I fixed it!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem wasn't the temperature, it was the spring that puts the pressure on the little wheel against the gear. That was too strong, so the entry of the extruder was to tight. The gear worked fine and the settings worked well, I just had to adjust the spring a bit to carefully lower the pressure. I just printed another Golden Key and it looks perfect!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for all your tips on the other settings, I will experiment with tose to see if I can increase quality even more, but it seems to work perfectly now for a 160$ printer :) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13185" LastActivityDate="2018-10-13T19:25:43.250" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7179" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-10-14T20:52:42.883" Score="3" ViewCount="995" Body="&lt;p&gt;A z-axis homing issue is giving me an ulcer. I'm hoping someone can help with this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As per usual, after the Z endstop is triggered on my TEVO Tarantula the gantry raises a bit then slowly lowers back down to the z=0 point established by the trigger. However, the gantry is now lowering well past the point triggered by the endstop. It's forcing the hotend to press down into the bed, and I need to reset the printer to avoid any damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm at a loss to understand why, and it's making re-leveling the bed impossible. Once I have the bed leveled, an auto home grinds the hotend into the bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've done some cable management in the past couple of days but everything is connected where it should be. The endstops are responding, I've even manually triggered them so I know they're working, but the Z refuses to stop where it should.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've printed at least once since organizing my cables but the bed wasn't level and then I noticed this issue when homing the Z for re-leveling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For context, I've had several projects print successfully recently so things &lt;em&gt;had&lt;/em&gt; been working fairly well. I haven't made any changes to the Marlin software since originally setting it up months ago. I had been poking around in some settings on the unit but I'm quite sure I reverted everything I tweaked. Regardless, I can't seem to find the menu I had accessed before, and I don't think I've ever had the TEVO successfully save any customizations made via the LCD interface anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13208" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2018-10-18T04:54:38.867" LastActivityDate="2018-10-18T04:54:38.867" Title="TEVO Tarantula Z-Axis Lowering Too Far After Endstop Triggered" Tags="|z-axis|endstop|tevo-tarantula|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7180" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4499" CreationDate="2018-10-15T05:04:43.877" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This answer is actually based on combining answers from 2 other questions (&lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/6963/150&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/q/1262/150&quot;&gt;that&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The process isn't a single step and would be to as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The point cloud data needs to be converted to a 3d mesh.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Convert the mesh to STL.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Slice the STL into &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Scalable_Vector_Graphics&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;SVG&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For step one, the type of point cloud data would decide the software to use (for example, if it is GIS point cloud data, or 3D scanner point cloud data). A good end result of step 1 would be a VRML file. As you've not specified the type of point cloud data, I cannot suggest a software for it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Step 2 would be to convert the mesh to STL which is easily doable using  &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.meshlab.net/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Meshlab&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For step 3, &lt;a href=&quot;http://manual.slic3r.org/advanced/svg-output&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Slic3r&lt;/a&gt; itself will work just fine to generate the SVG output you're looking for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="150" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-10-15T05:34:39.057" LastActivityDate="2018-10-15T05:34:39.057" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7181" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7172" CreationDate="2018-10-15T06:38:51.900" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It appears (&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;now confirmed in your question&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;) that you are using a Chimera 2-in-2-out hotend like depicted below:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/akL1Lm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/akL1Lm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Chimera hotend 2-in-2-out&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Chimera hotends generally use &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;all-metal&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; heat breaks (&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;not confirmed yet&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;) which are harder to operate than &quot;normal&quot; PTFE lined hotends. A common problem that happens is that heat creeps up causing problems as a result of too slow printing or too high retraction length settings. Basically your problem is clogging related to all-metal heat break printing. This is recently asked in this question: &lt;a href=&quot;/q/7162/5740&quot;&gt;&quot;Apparently systematic nozzle clogging&quot;&lt;/a&gt;. Please read the answers to that question as they describe very well what happens and what to do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Quoting from &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.proto-pasta.com/blogs/how-to/avoid-clogs-with-pla-composites-and-all-metal-hotends&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this article&lt;/a&gt; explains that it is a heating/cooling issue: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Jams and clogs are often from a combination of excessive heat and&#xA;  non-optimal material flow.  This effect is worsened by poorly cooled&#xA;  all-metal hot ends, high torque extruder gears, small nozzles/layers,&#xA;  slow printing speeds, too thin first layer, and excessive retraction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please do read this article and the solutions they mention to get yourself acquainted with the problem and its solutions. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In &lt;strong&gt;your case&lt;/strong&gt; this could well be a &lt;strong&gt;cooling issue&lt;/strong&gt; in combination with a &lt;strong&gt;too high print temperature&lt;/strong&gt; and a possibly &lt;strong&gt;too high retraction length&lt;/strong&gt; setting (depends on the length of the Bowden tube). The fan you mounted in the front (onto the cooling ribs, so the rightt fan in your image) is &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;too large for this hotend&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;. You attached the fan to the left top mounting hole so that it exceeds the right and bottom area of your cooling ribs. Furthermore, this larger fan has a larger center (hub) to house the bigger engine so that you end up with a lower cooling flow for at least the right extruder as most of the cooling ribs area is blocked by the fan hub. Please fit a fan that fits this hotend. Printing a fan adaptors may not work as well, these fans have a very low static pressure difference, so a convergent duct may not work as well as you might think. Considering your temperature you are printing PLA; PLA could usually be printed well in the 185 - 195 &amp;deg;C temperature range (depending on the PLA), 210 &amp;deg;C seems a bit on the high side. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another solution could be replacing the heat breaks for lined heat breaks:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uFj2Um.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uFj2Um.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Different types of heat breaks for the Chimera hotend&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As an aside, to explain a suggestion, in &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/7172/dual-extruder-clogging-problem/7181#comment11340_7172&quot;&gt;Himanshu's comment&lt;/a&gt; to coat your filament with some oils:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Apply some oil on PLA filament with cotton.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Oil &lt;em&gt;does&lt;/em&gt; lower friction in an all-metal hotend, but please beware that this needs to be &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;vegetable oil&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;. The reasoning behind this is that the oil hardens inside the throat to create a smooth coating on the inside, not lube the inside of the throat. &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/comments/52xjcg/seasoning_allmetal_hot_ends_with_oil/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;This thread&lt;/a&gt; has some interesting material on that. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, general consensus is &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; to do that:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Micro-Swiss use slippery platings and such, they don't need it. I've&#xA;  also used B3 Picos and E3D v5, v6, Volcano and Chimera and even that&#xA;  one garbage QUBD mk7 knockoff. Never needed oil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;or&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Seasoning hotends is a myth that refuses to die. Just don't do it, it&#xA;  does more harm than good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-10-18T21:24:40.173" LastActivityDate="2018-10-18T21:24:40.173" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7182" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7179" CreationDate="2018-10-15T12:54:07.633" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The soldering in the Tevo components is very low quality as I replaced/resoldered most of the end-stops.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As the gantry goes down - please ensure that the cable is not pulled over (no contact) and there is contact on the edge of the acrylic and the end-stop, also the small acrylic switch holder could bend/slip a bit. Finally, the sensor connection to the main board could be dragged by wires that are connected to the hot-end.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To validate micro-switch behavior - lift the Z-axis (about 100mm), then set &lt;code&gt;home position&lt;/code&gt; and manually trigger the end-stop switch. That shall lift the Z-axis, so then trigger again to see if that works. You will still have a plenty of time to stop the printer if the switch does not work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If that works, then the reason could be in slipping edge of the black acrylic plate and the micro-switch. Also validate the mechanical connection (if there is a loosening screw (the small on the switch plate)).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9730" LastActivityDate="2018-10-15T12:54:07.633" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7183" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7179" CreationDate="2018-10-15T17:23:18.740" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not familiar with your particular model, so this may not be directly applicable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For many printer models, a swing thru thingiverse.com will find you a replacement z-stop switch mount that uses a threaded screw to set the z-height at which the microswitch fires.  It may well be that you simply need to offset that height by a few mm to get your first layer to mate well with the print bed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are three examples, albeit for various models.  &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:12488&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;12488&lt;/a&gt;  ,    &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1829747&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;1829747&lt;/a&gt; ,&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2856144&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;2856144&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2191" LastActivityDate="2018-10-15T17:23:18.740" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7184" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3098" CreationDate="2018-10-15T22:27:36.123" Score="-4" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&quot;toughened&quot; glass,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lead, cadmium and barium would have that effect. It goes without saying that you wouldn't want that kind of glass anywhere near your neighborhood. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even those items that mention borosilicate glass in the product description may have never seen any boron. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some studies have found that more than 90% of items sourced from China are fraudulently labeled. There is no enforcement. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While stats say nothing about any particular sample, I'd certainly keep them in mind. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13220" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-10-16T07:43:11.157" LastActivityDate="2018-10-16T07:43:11.157" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7185" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7095" CreationDate="2018-10-15T22:40:16.023" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It looks like the nozzle is not perfectly perpendicular to the bed. It is also dragging which might indicate overextrusion or bad z stop calibration..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12950" LastActivityDate="2018-10-15T22:40:16.023" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7186" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7187" CreationDate="2018-10-16T05:24:58.090" Score="4" ViewCount="1226" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was reading up about how to extrusion print an overhang &lt;a href=&quot;https://rigid.ink/blogs/news/how-to-print-overhangs-bridges-and-exceeding-the-45-rule&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;greater than 45 degrees&lt;/a&gt;, when something weird stuck me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I see lots and lots of 3D extrusion printed bowls that have perfectly printed hemispherical surfaces. However, given that there is some deformation expected as part of the print process, how is it possible to get a perfect hemispherical  bowl - where both inner and outer surfaces are perfectly hemispherical?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Note: I am not talking about surface smoothness, but about the shape of the bowl itself. I understand that surface smoothing will make the bowl look great, but it will not fix a deformation in the shape of a print.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="150" LastEditorUserId="150" LastEditDate="2018-10-17T03:10:50.200" LastActivityDate="2019-06-02T17:48:48.690" Title="Hemispherical Bowl : how is it possible?" Tags="|print-quality|3d-design|slicing|extrusion|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7187" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7186" CreationDate="2018-10-16T06:22:17.887" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are several factors playing together. For example orientation, printer &amp;amp; slicer settings and more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Reminder&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First of all, not all overhangs of greater than 45° need support. Many printers manage up to 60°, even 70° is not unheard of - with the right settings. Pretty much all printers manage tiny 90° overhangs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;U-Bowls (open side up)&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's look at bowls that shape like a U - the dome is at the bottom. With a flat contact surface only the next areas need support, and with PVA or other easily removable support structures on the rise, it is no problem to use support and leave no trace. With support, there is no sagging, so the bowl gets its &amp;quot;perfect&amp;quot; look even though there are overhangs and support used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;n-bowls (open side down)&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other way around - dome on top - is probably the more &amp;quot;smooth&amp;quot; one, using different tricks to get it set.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The outer wall now sits on the infill like the inner we had before, perfect, but we used that for the inner wall before. But what about the inner one?! Well, we need no support for the sides till we reach, let's say 55° angle. Can we go further without support? Yes... if we are tricksy!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Print the walls from the center to the outer wall, as then the inner walls stand on the lower layer and can hold the new, neighboring, &lt;em&gt;floating&lt;/em&gt; wall&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Have more than 2 walls! Why? Well, simple math: You go up by &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$z$&lt;/span&gt;, and out by &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$(n-1)\times d$&lt;/span&gt; where &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$n$&lt;/span&gt; is the number of walls. We have a maximum overhang angle of &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$\tan^{-1}(z^{-2}\times((n-0.5)\times d)^2)$&lt;/span&gt; before our walls don't stand on the wall below by more than a half wall. As one can see, &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$z$&lt;/span&gt; and &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$d$&lt;/span&gt; are fixed in that calculation while a higher factor &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$n$&lt;/span&gt; directly increases the value of the angle. As long as there is support for the wall (like the neighboring, already printed wall), you get some kind of dome.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Print thinner layers. If you decrease &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$z$&lt;/span&gt;, you also increase the maximum angle that has one wall standing on half a supporting wall.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Print slow. Printing slower allows the material to cool and harden while still somewhat held up by the cohesion to the filament that comes from the nozzle. This can support a higher overhang angle.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cooling. Together with slow printing, you might want to use an extra strong cooling solution to speed up the solidification. Aim well.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Print narrow&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; domes. Why is it much easier to print more narrow domes than wider domes? Part of the answer is how much geometry does not need to be supported by itself, another part is the weight of the full structure: A narrow dome spans a smaller distance. This means it has less area of a high angle to the last layer, and the overhangs, in general, are shorter. This can result in better printing.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sub&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; What counts as narrow is printer and filament dependent. It is no problem to print small spherical hollows in a print if they are just small enough as the overhang then is just short enough so it can carry itself. At some point it gets too much though.&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:29:41.667" LastActivityDate="2019-06-02T17:48:48.690" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7188" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7189" CreationDate="2018-10-16T06:26:43.323" Score="4" ViewCount="6042" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been printing PLA on a Pegasus 12&quot; for 2 years. Print quality has been great but in the last few months the quality of the prints has deteriorated. After looking into it, it seems when the head moves away from the spool and puts the filament in tension (and pulls on the spool) the extruder cog slips on the filament. &#xA;That results in traces where no plastic gets extruded the furthest away the head moves from the spool (the spool is on the left in the picture below):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0W9DA.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0W9DA.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;See diagonal traces where plastic didn&amp;#39;t extrude&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The cog slipping can be seen between 0:22 and 0:27 on the video below: the cog on the right spins continuously but the ball bearing on the left stops spinning for 5 seconds.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://photos.app.goo.gl/cTfySUgXDy1XKXGv8&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://photos.app.goo.gl/cTfySUgXDy1XKXGv8&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The end result is a part with multiple gaps, especially on the side farthest away from the spool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lX4eJ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lX4eJ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've cleaned the teeth of the cog (removed plastic dust) to improve traction but that didn't solve the problem. I've also tried to clean up the extruder by inserting a wire from the hot end side, no improvement in print quality.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas on how to fix that slipping problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit with solution:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To complement Oscar's answer below, here is what I've done that fixed the problem: it turns out the issue was coming from a lack of friction on the filament. To increase the friction, I've slipped a pair of 0.25mm thick pieces of plastic sheet between the bearing axis and the mount. See pic below.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CXw36.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CXw36.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That increased the force on the filament enough to fully solve the slippage problem. The print quality is perfect now (see pic below).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KqbYo.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KqbYo.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The plastic sheet trick is just a short term fix. I'm going to try swapping the drive gear for a slightly thicker one and contact MakerFarm to see if there is any long term modification they recommend.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13222" LastEditorUserId="13222" LastEditDate="2018-10-18T02:12:14.487" LastActivityDate="2018-10-18T02:12:14.487" Title="Extruder drive cog slipping on filament" Tags="|print-quality|extruder|reprap|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7189" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7188" CreationDate="2018-10-16T06:50:48.360" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;These symptoms are generally caused by friction in the extrusion path.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, you should make sure the spool of filament can unspool freely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second, in order to prevent slipping of the filament, you should consider increasing the force of the roller bearing onto the filament and extruder wheel, or increase hotend temperature. A (partial) clog can also be causing this. You could try a &quot;cold pull&quot; or &quot;atomic pull&quot; where you heat up the filament to print level, push a little through by hand and let the nozzle cool to about 60 % of the printing temp and then steadily pull the filament out of the hotend, this should remove all gunk inside, repeat if necessary. A too low of a layer height can also put the filament extrusion under pressure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;As an aside, slipping of filament is often accompanied by an audible clicking noise. There are a few questions on this topic.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;It also looks as though your bed is not &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6375/how-to-center-my-prints-on-the-build-platform&quot;&gt;centered in the middle&lt;/a&gt; as you are printing outside the bed limits in the front and have a little room left at the back!&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-10-16T10:46:45.543" LastActivityDate="2018-10-16T10:46:45.543" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7190" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7188" CreationDate="2018-10-16T13:31:56.430" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;In addition to the answers from 0scar, you might check your hot end temp. I was having a similar problem with slippage and prints that would literally fall apart in my hand even if they looked ok. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It turned out that the filament I was using which claimed to be PLA actually wanted a much hotter temperature than most PLA. Once I bumped it up to around 216-218&amp;nbsp;°C the slippage stopped and the prints came out beautiful. Might be a possibility if this is a new filament for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12559" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-10-17T17:53:05.837" LastActivityDate="2018-10-17T17:53:05.837" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7191" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7192" CreationDate="2018-10-16T14:07:10.670" Score="3" ViewCount="525" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am interested in 3d printing from aluminum valve cover for car &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.eeuroparts.com/Parts/59071/Engine-Valve-Cover-Front-V6-4623740/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;SAAB valve cover&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am thinking of creating 3d scan and the placing order with i.materialize or similar online services. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am curios if this is feasible at all, since  I am interested in 3d printing functional part not just a souvenir. Also since 3d part does not have smooth surface, will sand blasting help without affecting dimensions?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also what would be an approximate cost of 3d scanning and printing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I really do not know where to start and would appreciate any directions. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13225" LastActivityDate="2018-10-16T14:50:29.337" Title="3d print aluminum valve cover for car" Tags="|3d-design|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7192" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7191" CreationDate="2018-10-16T14:50:29.337" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a very large part. My estimate for the cost would be a few thousand to get this printed in metal, if not tens of thousands (assuming it even fits the maximum build volume of the printer, which is only 440mm on its longest axis).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3D scanning also isn't a very reliable way to reproduce parts, especially for something mechanical that needs to be precise. You can not just scan something and then print it like making a photocopy. A lot of manual design and reverse engineering work would be involved.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastActivityDate="2018-10-16T14:50:29.337" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7193" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4834" CreationDate="2018-10-17T06:28:01.110" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Basically you are fighting against oozing. So a retraction, or as you call it:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;the 3D pen I am using goes back a little bit to prevent dripping&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;needs to be undone. You can do this by extruding an amount to get the filament back at the tip. Command &lt;code&gt;G1 Exx.xx&lt;/code&gt; where xx.xx is a number where the retraction is is added on top of the existing value. Furthermore, most slicing software have parameters available to influence the extrusion/retraction. E.g. &quot;coasting&quot; is an option to prematurely stop extruding and make use of the pressure buildup in the nozzle (this prevents blobs where perimeter end meets the perimeter begin), &quot;extra length on restart&quot; (replenish the nozzle chamber with extra filament) or &quot;Retract on layer change&quot;. In principle all these actions are set and handled by the slicer you use for making a print file. There is no need for a &quot;dwell time&quot;, in fact dwell is just a pauze. It seems a bit strange that you want to control the filament flow yourself, while all this is done for you by the slicer software.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2018-10-17T06:28:01.110" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7194" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7195" CreationDate="2018-10-17T14:05:17.083" Score="7" ViewCount="7533" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an SLA printed part I want to put a brass threaded insert in using a soldering iron. The insert is slightly larger than the hole so I would assume the edge will melt and re-freeze around the teeth. Are there any issues with melting SLA or this idea in general? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13232" LastActivityDate="2021-06-10T09:21:58.977" Title="Using heat-set inserts with SLA printed part" Tags="|sla|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7195" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7194" CreationDate="2018-10-17T14:10:16.047" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;The plastic used in SLA printing is what is known as a &lt;em&gt;thermoset&lt;/em&gt; plastic, as opposed to the &lt;em&gt;thermoplastic&lt;/em&gt; plastics used in FDM printing. What this means, is that it &lt;em&gt;can not be melted&lt;/em&gt;. The reaction that hardens SLA materials is irreversible. If you heat up the plastic it won't melt, it will just burn (if it gets hot enough). What you're planning is a bad idea, and it won't work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastActivityDate="2018-10-17T14:10:16.047" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7196" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-10-17T14:49:17.847" Score="3" ViewCount="540" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can no longer print anything because I get a E1 heating failed error on my TEVO Tarantula every time I try to heat the hotend. The bed heats just fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've removed the heating element and thermistor from the hotend. The latter works fine, the temperature rises when I pinch it with my fingers. The element doesn't appear to have any broken connections.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I recently did some cable management and disconnected the element's wires from the board. After reattaching them, I was able to print a couple of things so the error has occurred since then. (They didn't turn out, btw, so maybe this was the beginning of a fault?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The wires going to the board's E1 pins are secure. I've swapped them back and forth and reconnected them numerous times but no luck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know the most likely problem is a faulty element but before I buy a replacement is there a way to test the heating pins themselves? Some way to test the element separate from the printer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, is there a way to have the element heat using the E0 pins? I've found tutorials on how to define the heater pins in Marlin but their code references don't appear in my configuration.h file.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13208" LastActivityDate="2018-10-17T15:53:55.190" Title="On my TEVO Tarantula, is there a way to test that its heater pins are working?" Tags="|hotend|tevo-tarantula|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7199" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7196" CreationDate="2018-10-17T15:53:55.190" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I haven't tried it, but would assume you could put a multimeter (set to VDC) onto the two connections for the heater pins and check the voltage output during what would be the heating period. If there's voltage output, your heating element would be at fault. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11242" LastActivityDate="2018-10-17T15:53:55.190" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7200" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6546" CreationDate="2018-10-17T17:39:59.447" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Makerbot Replicator was released in 2012 and was the first 3D consumer-level printer that was sold only as a complete unit, not a kit.  They were also well funded and had a famous Maker-Person as a founder.  This seemed to coincide with wide-scale coverage of 3D printing in the media, and a big boom in the DIY side of the movement which is continuing to this day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The unit was still expensive by many standards (US$2500), but it did solve the bootstrap problem... you could just buy one at a store, instead of having to have a specific knowledge set in order to build one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6851" LastActivityDate="2018-10-17T17:39:59.447" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7201" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-10-18T00:05:00.807" Score="2" ViewCount="853" Body="&lt;p&gt;My Anet A8 was working and printing great until my hotbed connector snapped and shorted out my motherboard. After replacing the connections to my hotbed and my motherboard I can't print anything because the filament flow is very inconsistent. It often laying down nothing. See my included picture. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've tried a bunch of suggested calibration settings but none of them worked:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;increased extruder temp, &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;decreased speed, &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;increased flow, &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas or thoughts would be great. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NzZwN.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NzZwN.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;First layer view of a printed product&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13241" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-10-18T06:34:28.560" LastActivityDate="2018-10-19T01:46:07.150" Title="Inconsistent filament flow on anet a8" Tags="|extruder|pla|anet-a8|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7202" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-10-18T02:42:17.437" Score="4" ViewCount="556" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just assembled a Prusa i3 MK3 and went through the calibration process, but when I print the first layer doesn't look good and my prints come unstuck from the bed. I think it might be Z height but this was as high as I could put the probe without the paper moving on the calibration test. The layers after the first few look good but then the print either warps or comes unstuck and moves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EdidQ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EdidQ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Bottom view of a hexagon print&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4voqC.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4voqC.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Detail of the bottom of another print&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13243" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-10-18T06:27:54.033" LastActivityDate="2018-10-19T01:32:34.390" Title="What is wrong with my first layers?" Tags="|print-quality|prusa-i3|calibration|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7203" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7202" CreationDate="2018-10-18T06:25:28.260" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Judging by the images you posted in your question, the first layer distance is too far away from the bed for the current filament flow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This could either be related to:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;having an offset on the first layer like a height correction in the slicer,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;an incorrectly levelled (read height adjusted) bed, (you did the paper test correctly, so this is probably not your problem, it is mentioned for completeness)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;under-extrusion&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;slicer setting not correct, e.g. filament diameter or flow modifier not 100 %&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;incorrectly calibrated extruder&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your most likely problem is under-extrusion. It would be advised to calibrate the extruder: &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6483/how-do-i-calibrate-the-extruder-of-my-printer&quot;&gt;How do I calibrate the extruder of my printer?&lt;/a&gt; and check the slicer settings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-10-18T13:51:52.020" LastActivityDate="2018-10-18T13:51:52.020" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7204" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7201" CreationDate="2018-10-18T11:17:49.037" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Please note that the problems you faced are typical for the Anet A8, the connectors are underrated for the application. Also, do note that the stock firmware does not have thermal runaway protection, which is considered to be very unsafe and could potentially lead to burning down your house! Please flash a firmware that supports thermal runaway protection, like e.g. Marlin Firmware.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically you just tried to change some parameters to see if they have an effect. This is generally a good idea to get an idea of the problem, but a more technical approach would be to start from the beginning and exclude things you have tested. As for now you cannot conclude why the print looks as shown in the image, e.g. it also looks as if the nozzle to bed distance is too large.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The question remains if your 3D printer board did survive the shorting of the hotbed leads!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To troubleshoot this particular problem it is advised to check whether the extrusion process still does what it is asked to do. Disconnecting the hotend from the extruder and measuring how much filament is extruded would be the first thing to check. Please look into &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6483/how-do-i-calibrate-the-extruder-of-my-printer&quot;&gt;How do I calibrate the extruder of my printer?&lt;/a&gt;. It seems odd that the extrusion is off if the firmware has not changed, or alternative settings stored, but to be sure it would be the first thing to check. From this exercise you'll learn whether the firmware is set correctly and the extruder working properly. It can still be that the extruder gear slips, e.g. because the filament does not have a lot of friction when disconnected from the hotend.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the extrusion process works and the commanded length is extruded, you can update the question with what you have done. After this, and if the problem persists, you can look into nozzle clogging and filament resistance for instance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2018-10-18T11:17:49.037" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7205" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-10-18T17:12:28.497" Score="2" ViewCount="1306" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a delta printer. The problem is that after the start gcode is executed and the extruder head is 15 (Pic: x0) mm above the center of the plate, the first move towards the start (x1) of the actual print is performed at (maximum possible?) speed @ infinite acceleration. After that the print is performed with regular acceleration. This can cause missing steps. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem seems to arise after the start gcode section. How can I fix it. I use Cura 3.5.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/j9Us1.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/j9Us1.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Start gcode&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;G28 ;Home&#xA;G1 F1000&#xA;G1 Z15.0&#xA;G92 E0&#xA;G1 F200 E3&#xA;G92 E0&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10847" LastEditorUserId="10847" LastEditDate="2018-10-18T17:18:07.107" LastActivityDate="2018-10-18T17:29:51.177" Title="First move after Start gcode, to start position (but before printing) is way too fast" Tags="|marlin|ultimaker-cura|start|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7206" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7205" CreationDate="2018-10-18T17:29:51.177" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;By way of comparison, here's what Cura writes as the header of a gcode file.  You may want to adjust some of the default parameters in your Cura settings.  (this header was same for both the default Prusa and the default Deltabot  printer settings) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;;FLAVOR:Marlin&#xA;;TIME:67934&#xA;;Filament used: 22.2173m&#xA;;Layer height: 0.06&#xA;;Generated with Cura_SteamEngine 3.5.0&#xA;M140 S60&#xA;M105&#xA;M190 S60&#xA;M104 S200&#xA;M105&#xA;M109 S200&#xA;M82 ;absolute extrusion mode&#xA;G21 ;metric values&#xA;G90 ;absolute positioning&#xA;M82 ;set extruder to absolute mode&#xA;M107 ;start with the fan off&#xA;G28 X0 Y0 ;move X/Y to min endstops&#xA;G28 Z0 ;move Z to min endstops&#xA;G1 Z15.0 F9000 ;move the platform down 15mm&#xA;G92 E0 ;zero the extruded length&#xA;G1 F200 E3 ;extrude 3mm of feed stock&#xA;G92 E0 ;zero the extruded length again&#xA;G1 F9000&#xA;;Put printing message on LCD screen&#xA;M117 Printing...&#xA;G92 E0&#xA;G1 F1500 E-6.5&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2191" LastActivityDate="2018-10-18T17:29:51.177" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7207" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7211" CreationDate="2018-10-18T20:50:47.107" Score="6" ViewCount="2827" Body="&lt;p&gt;How can I achieve keeping the motors active during pause to avoid moving their position during filament changes?  I have changed the filament during some prints to change the color or to change the a newer spool, but sometimes the X axis is moved during the change. I'm now using some cloth clips to prevent moving during this change. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To pause the 3D printer I'm using the LCD menu -&gt;pause, then I go to Move axis X, then I move close to 0. This change is manually and random since I don't know when the old filament reel is going to finish. The printer use Marlin as firmware with Ramps 1.4&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4454" LastEditorUserId="150" LastEditDate="2018-10-23T12:18:24.127" LastActivityDate="2018-10-25T13:07:30.307" Title="Hold torque during pause to change filament" Tags="|change-filament|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7208" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7202" CreationDate="2018-10-19T01:32:34.390" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I used the live-z adjustment feature and set it to +0.150 and now my prints look much better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13243" LastActivityDate="2018-10-19T01:32:34.390" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7209" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7201" CreationDate="2018-10-19T01:46:07.150" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Thanks everyone for the tips. I posted this question on another board and it was suggested my extruder was clogged. After unclogging everything works great again. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13241" LastActivityDate="2018-10-19T01:46:07.150" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7210" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7207" CreationDate="2018-10-19T08:05:01.520" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have not tried this, but you could use the &lt;code&gt;M84 S0&lt;/code&gt; command, this prevents the motors to go into an idle state.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the &lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#M84:_Stop_idle_hold&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;code&gt;M84&lt;/code&gt; G-code wiki&lt;/a&gt; (firmware specific!):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;On &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Marlin&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;, Repetier and RepRapFirmware, M84 can also be used to&#xA;  configure or disable the idle timeout. For example, &lt;code&gt;M84 S10&lt;/code&gt; will&#xA;  idle the stepper motors after 10 seconds of inactivity. &lt;code&gt;M84 S0&lt;/code&gt; will&#xA;  disable idle timeout; steppers will remain powered up regardless of&#xA;  activity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What rests is to implement this command into your G-code file to be executed during pause. Depending on the pause method you could introduce this command. I have not tried this, but you could put the command in your start G-code and test if the motors keep powered!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Furthermore, &lt;em&gt;a specific filament change command is available for specific firmware applications&lt;/em&gt;. This code, &lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#M600:_Filament_change_pause&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;code&gt;M600&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/a&gt;, can be used to change filament. From the &lt;a href=&quot;http://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M600.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Marlin documentation&lt;/a&gt; you can read (since you are using Marlin Firmware, you could use this G-code command):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The &lt;code&gt;M600&lt;/code&gt; command initiates the filament change procedure. The basic&#xA;  procedure will move the print head away from the print, eject the&#xA;  filament, wait for new filament to be inserted and the user to&#xA;  confirm, load and prime the filament, and continue with the print.&#xA;  &lt;code&gt;M600&lt;/code&gt; may be initiated automatically if a filament runout sensor is&#xA;  installed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please do note that in Marlin Firmware the &lt;code&gt;M600&lt;/code&gt; command is only available when the comments before &lt;code&gt;//#define ADVANCED_PAUSE_FEATURE&lt;/code&gt; in the advanced configuration options file &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/blob/1.1.x/Marlin/Configuration_adv.h&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Configuration_adv.h&lt;/a&gt; are removed, hereby activating the command.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-10-19T19:55:05.510" LastActivityDate="2018-10-19T19:55:05.510" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7211" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7207" CreationDate="2018-10-19T08:22:36.290" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is &lt;code&gt;ADVANCED_PAUSE_FEATURE&lt;/code&gt; enabled in your printers &lt;code&gt;configuration_adv.h&lt;/code&gt; file?&#xA;There is a &lt;code&gt;PAUSE_PARK_NO_STEPPER_TIMEOUT&lt;/code&gt; option included in there, which prevents the steppers from timing out during a pause, and may be more robust than a G-Code command if you plan to manually pause and resume the print instead of setting it up in the slicer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively, in the same file,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#define DEFAULT_STEPPER_DEACTIVE_TIME 120&#xA;#define DISABLE_INACTIVE_X true&#xA;#define DISABLE_INACTIVE_Y true&#xA;#define DISABLE_INACTIVE_Z true  // set to false if the nozzle will fall down on your printed part when print has finished.&#xA;#define DISABLE_INACTIVE_E true&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;can be found. You may want to increase the &lt;code&gt;DEFAULT_STEPPER_DEACTIVE_TIME&lt;/code&gt;, or set &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#define DISABLE_INACTIVE_X true&#xA;#define DISABLE_INACTIVE_Y true&#xA;#define DISABLE_INACTIVE_Z true  // set to false if the nozzle will fall down on your printed part when print has finished.&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;to &lt;code&gt;false&lt;/code&gt; to keep X, Y and Z engaged while allowing movement of the extruder stepper only.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13171" LastEditorUserId="13171" LastEditDate="2018-10-25T13:07:30.307" LastActivityDate="2018-10-25T13:07:30.307" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7214" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7231" CreationDate="2018-10-19T22:46:51.807" Score="1" ViewCount="3870" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want some indication to all the workings of 3D-Printers and the basics of design.&#xA;All links regarding DIY 3D-printer are welcomed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11121" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-11-29T01:34:51.397" LastActivityDate="2018-11-29T01:34:51.397" Title="Is a 3-D printer made from 3 CD Drives practically somewhat decent, being DIY and less expensive?" Tags="|diy-3d-printer|e-waste|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2018-10-23T06:41:25.100" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7215" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-10-20T05:08:10.987" Score="1" ViewCount="563" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a cosplay prop that I am trying to cut up into pieces so I can print them out in different color filament eliminating the need for any painting (it's the Handle in &lt;a href=&quot;http://://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2416804&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Mercy's Caduceus Staff from Overwatch&lt;/a&gt;).  I was going along great using Meshmixer creating face groups, then generating complex, then separating complex, until a certain part where I tried to separate a part that has a hole going through the middle and smaller holes for screws (using this tutorial, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xw_ClxnJ1_U&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;YouTube - Splitting 1 STL into 4 STLs for multi-color &amp;amp; multi-material 3D printing with Meshmixer&lt;/a&gt;).  I think Meshmixer is getting confused though since the topology of the part technically meets up to itself and has what could be considered multiple joining edges.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was able to fire up Netfabb and get something close by doing a Polygon cut, but it's not accurate enough.  It left a bunch of tiny pieces all over the place where I didn't quite get right at the vertices. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ideally I would like to have a cutting tool exactly like the polygon cut in Netfabb but that allows you to choose actual Mesh triangle edges as your cutting edge to project through your mesh.  Anyone know if there is a piece of software that can do something like that?  I also considered attempting to &quot;fill in the hole&quot;, separate my complexes, then Cut the hole back out, but I don't think that would work very well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For reference, here is what the part looks like.  I'm trying to separate the green piece from the rest of it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9KstN.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Screenshot of Meshmixer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9KstN.png&quot; alt=&quot;Screenshot of Meshmixer&quot; title=&quot;Screenshot of Meshmixer&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13257" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-10-20T06:05:41.647" LastActivityDate="2018-10-20T06:05:41.647" Title="&quot;plane Cut&quot; on a curve" Tags="|stl|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7216" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7025" CreationDate="2018-10-21T04:22:53.663" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Let's assume the model is 75mm high; the bottom portion (which needs 20% infill) is 40mm, and the top portion (which needs 0% infill) is 35mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Load your model into Slic3r.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Be sure your default fill is 20%.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Right click on the model, and select Settings.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Click &quot;Load Generic&quot;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Select Slab. This represents a cube which is the same X,Y dimensions of your model.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Specify H=35 (the height of the slab) and Initial Z=40 (where the base of slab starts).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;This creates a new part for your object.  Select it and click &quot;+&quot; to add a new setting.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Select Infill/Fill Density and set it to 0%.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a result of this, the bottom part of your model (which is not enclosed in the slab) will print at the default fill setting of 20%, and the top part of your model (which is enclosed in the slab) will print with 0% fill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can verify this by slicing and looking at the preview.  You will see the base with your default infill, and the top with no infill.  The slic3r docs mentions several other ways to &lt;a href=&quot;http://manual.slic3r.org/advanced/modifier-mesh&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;customize parameters&lt;/a&gt; for your model.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6851" LastActivityDate="2018-10-21T04:22:53.663" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7217" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7287" CreationDate="2018-10-21T14:21:50.823" Score="8" ViewCount="9523" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a long print that keeps aborting. At some random point mid-print the printer says &quot;Click to resume...&quot;. There is nothing in the G-code that asks for user confirmation. What could it be that triggers this? I noticed that sometimes (not every time) there is a blob of plastic in the way that should not be there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On one occasion, after the &quot;Click to resume...&quot;, the LCD showed the message &lt;code&gt;FY178.N16466&lt;/code&gt; and again waited for a click.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The printer is an Anet A8 with Marlin 1.1.9. Slicer is Cura. I am printing via USB from Cura directly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the error message:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QXdNc.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;&amp;quot;Click to resume...&amp;quot; error message&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QXdNc.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;&amp;quot;Click to resume...&amp;quot; error message&quot; title=&quot;&amp;quot;Click to resume...&amp;quot; error message&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13147" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-11-05T11:58:19.927" LastActivityDate="2018-12-01T14:31:20.863" Title="What triggers Marlin's &quot;Click to resume...&quot;?" Tags="|firmware|troubleshooting|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7219" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7220" CreationDate="2018-10-21T18:39:42.187" Score="4" ViewCount="2006" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm having a problem with Ultimaker Cura (v3.4.0) where it doesn't always tell the extruder to retract when performing a travel, which causes the hotend to leave a &quot;trail&quot; as it's moving and not start printing again right away when the travel is over.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, the extruder does not retract when performing this travel (blue):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bTK4f.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bTK4f.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And yes, I do have &quot;retract before outer wall&quot; enabled....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2yTOh.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2yTOh.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/08oeA.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/08oeA.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas how to solve this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12458" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-10-21T21:38:36.237" LastActivityDate="2018-10-22T12:47:08.350" Title="Ultimaker Cura not always telling extruder to retract when traveling" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|slicing|retraction|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7220" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7219" CreationDate="2018-10-21T21:16:19.267" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You probably have the &quot;Combing Mode&quot; option under the &quot;Travel&quot; options enabled for each layer (&lt;code&gt;All&lt;/code&gt;). Combing reduces print time by leaving out the retraction, but leads to ugly first and top layers by leaving &lt;em&gt;&quot;scars&quot;&lt;/em&gt; on the surface. It can be disabled by excluding the bottom and top layer by changing the setting to &lt;code&gt;Not in Skin&lt;/code&gt; or for all layers by choosing &lt;code&gt;Off&lt;/code&gt;. The latter will increase printing time drastically! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please note that as of version 3.5 of Ultimaker Cura the options of the combing setting have an additional setting. As of Ultimaker Cure 3.5.0 the options are named:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;code&gt;Off&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;code&gt;All&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;code&gt;Not in Skin&lt;/code&gt; (used to be &lt;code&gt;No Skin&lt;/code&gt; a few versions ago)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;code&gt;Within Infill&lt;/code&gt; (new setting)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-10-22T12:47:08.350" LastActivityDate="2018-10-22T12:47:08.350" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7221" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7227" CreationDate="2018-10-22T00:34:40.537" Score="4" ViewCount="236" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to print the following model in my Prusa printer using its Slic3r PE software.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2399125&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Ferment Air Lock&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Y5nm3.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Ferment Air Lock&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Y5nm3.png&quot; alt=&quot;Ferment Air Lock&quot; title=&quot;Ferment Air Lock&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the comments of the model it says that the way to print is the with the filler opener downside to the printing board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is how I have it in Slic3r:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tLheX.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Ferment Air Lock in Slic3r&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tLheX.png&quot; alt=&quot;Ferment Air Lock in Slic3r&quot; title=&quot;Ferment Air Lock in Slic3r&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I print it I get this horrible form and I have to stop in order to avoid waste of material.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FxU0z.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Bad print&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FxU0z.png&quot; alt=&quot;Bad print&quot; title=&quot;Bad print&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I look in the layers tab and then scroll up to see layer workflow I can see this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/r2tFv.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Layer workflow&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/r2tFv.png&quot; alt=&quot;Layer workflow&quot; title=&quot;Layer workflow&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So that means is trying to print like in the &quot;air&quot; something without any support.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any clue how to print this? I'm kind of new to 3d printing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2637" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-10-23T06:41:10.750" LastActivityDate="2018-10-23T06:41:10.750" Title="How to correctly print an object with supports" Tags="|prusa-i3|slic3r|support-structures|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7222" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5857" CreationDate="2018-10-22T00:41:56.930" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You must use the sequence &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;G28&#xA;G29&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do &lt;code&gt;G28&lt;/code&gt; after &lt;code&gt;G29&lt;/code&gt; it will reset bed leveling. I guess you don't want that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On my printer deployed z-probe falls 2.3&amp;nbsp;mm lower than nozzle. In printer settings I've therefore stored static Z-offset of -2.3&amp;nbsp;mm, so after &lt;code&gt;G28&lt;/code&gt; and &lt;code&gt;G29&lt;/code&gt; I can be sure that when ever I tell Z-axis to lower to zero, it can go down -12.3&amp;nbsp;mm, coming to stop at around 0.1&amp;nbsp;mm above the bed surface (so just a single sheet of paper fits between the nozzle and the bed).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, I'm not worrying about sending the Z-offset via print commands, as restart restores the aforementioned -2.3&amp;nbsp;mm offset.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13266" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-07-22T19:20:27.100" LastActivityDate="2019-07-22T19:20:27.100" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7223" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4672" CreationDate="2018-10-22T01:06:11.383" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you wannwa go fully parametric, use OpenSCAD. Or you can use Autodesk Fusion 360 (which is free for non-commercial use)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13266" LastActivityDate="2018-10-22T01:06:11.383" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7224" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-10-22T05:37:12.763" Score="2" ViewCount="192" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm at a location where I don't have easy access to toothed belts for my printer (a &lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/wiki/Wallace&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;RepRap Wallace&lt;/a&gt;). While trying to look for some solution, I saw some talk of using fishing line as a belt, along with a log of admonitions of &lt;code&gt;Don't&lt;/code&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, as I have easy access to fishing line, but almost no access to a toothed belt, I was thinking of using multiple strands of fishing line with regularly spaced knots to simulate a toothed belt. However, Google didn't help much with either usage or possible Gotchas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any possible issues that I may face with this solution?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="150" LastActivityDate="2018-10-23T20:17:32.457" Title="Knotted String as Replacement for Toothed Belt" Tags="|belt|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7225" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7224" CreationDate="2018-10-22T06:12:52.927" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I’m going to recommend not using a fishing line with knots.  Probably the biggest problem you’ll have using the fishing line with knots is if the knots are not perfectly spaced,  movement along the X or Y axis is not going to be consistent. This could result in weird deformations in your print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on how you tie the knots they may not grip the teeth of the gears quite well enough to prevent slippage. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both of these issues will mean that you will not get very good quality prints assuming the print doesn’t outright fail.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You would be better off waiting to get the correct belt then attempting to use fishing line. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12630" LastActivityDate="2018-10-22T06:12:52.927" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7226" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-10-22T08:25:03.953" Score="6" ViewCount="600" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am looking for information on the smart extruder+ heat block and nozzle?  I have looked online and from several forums come to the conclusion it is either a MK10 or MK11 assembly.  Can anyone shed some details on the heat block and nozzles.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13270" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2018-10-23T13:27:39.260" LastActivityDate="2024-03-26T00:08:05.997" Title="Makerbot Smart extruder+ heat block and nozzle question" Tags="|extruder|nozzle|makerbot|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7227" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7221" CreationDate="2018-10-22T09:05:21.193" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You need to put a check mark to enable supports in Slic3r as you cannot print in mid-air.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This option is found under &quot;Print settings&quot; with header name &quot;Support settings&quot;. Please look at the &lt;a href=&quot;http://manual.slic3r.org/expert-mode/support-material&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Slic3r manual&lt;/a&gt; for more options.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/05sct.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/05sct.png&quot; alt=&quot;Slic3r print settings&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-10-22T09:12:16.393" LastActivityDate="2018-10-22T09:12:16.393" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7228" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10247" CreationDate="2018-10-22T13:28:25.657" Score="1" ViewCount="5391" Body="&lt;p&gt;With respect to &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/7172/dual-extruder-clogging-problem#comment11340_7172&quot;&gt;Himanshu's comment&lt;/a&gt; about applying a lubricant to PLA filament, and then having read the Reddit thread, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/comments/52xjcg/seasoning_allmetal_hot_ends_with_oil/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Seasoning all-metal hot ends with oil?&lt;/a&gt;, pointed to in &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/7172/dual-extruder-clogging-problem/7181#7181&quot;&gt;0scar's answer&lt;/a&gt;, I was wondering if any studies have been done on the topic?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If so, what is the general consensus? From the Reddit thread it seems as if the better quality branded hotends, such as E3D do not require it, whereas the older, or less well finished clones, may well benefit from such treatment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition, which oil is preferable, animal, vegetable or mineral? Is vaseline a good idea?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, would the advice differ if ABS filament is used, or would the same conditions apply?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4762" LastActivityDate="2021-04-11T23:33:14.420" Title="Is lubricating filament a good idea?" Tags="|filament|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7229" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7290" CreationDate="2018-10-22T14:56:41.200" Score="22" ViewCount="72565" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm having issues with ripples on the first layer of big flat prints. The initial corner of a big flat print is fine, but then ripples begin to form as shown in the screenshot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm just a newbie, so I was thinking they might have something to do with heat or contraction or something. Normally, I use the default and print with no turbofan on the first layer. When I tried adding fan 20% or 50%, nothing much changed (slight differences in the ripple pattern and area, but that pattern varies anyway).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also wonder if one strip gets bent, then maybe the rest just follow the bends. As far as I know, my heating plate is working fine, has no serious hot spots, and I'm using a high-quality PLA+ filament. I also tried adjusting the print temperature from 205-220 (the range on the box is 205-230). Nothing seemed to help. I am running a default first layer thickness of 0.3 mm because that is supposed to help adhesion (and adhesion is fine).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The ripples look worse than they feel. They feel fairly flat, only slightly rippled, even though they look terrible! (And I don't know what that weird row with blobs is in the top left of the picture. That only happened once; almost like junk was in the nozzle or the feed gears slipped or something).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm running a Qidi Xpro machine, Sunlu PLA+ (wonderful) filaments, bed 50 C, print temp 205-215, print speed 30-40 mm/s on the first layer, and first layer thickness 0.3 mm (normal layer thickness is 0.2 mm). This machine has a direct drive with gears immediately above the nozzle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know why this rippling effect occurs, and what I might to do to correct it? Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;UPDATE: I'm adding this info here to respond to several comments concerning bed leveling, etc. (Thank you to those who made comments!) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) I'm sure that the bed is as level as I can make it because I always go through the cycle twice). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) Regarding clearance, if anything I worry that my clearance is too small since there is a fair amount of drag on my leveling card under the nozzle. So, there is definitely drag on all three level points, about midrange between the lightest drag and the heaviest drag that makes me think I'm filing off part of the nozzle. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3) I do have two nozzles, so I suppose the problem could show up on one but not the other if the nozzles were screwed into the block to give different heights. But the ripple shows up on both nozzles, always in the middle of the build plate, always in the middle of a big flat print. Corners don't usually show ripple effects. I don't want to believe that my build plate dips in the middle on my new machine, either ... :-) Adhesion is fine on small prints in the middle of the plate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a picture of the bottom of the piece. A careful examination shows an oscillation in the squished filament segments on a filament thread. Almost like the extruder was oscillating vertically in the z-axis at that frequency, or perhaps the filament squishyness was oscillating at that frequency. Looks almost like a weave pattern, since the squished parts alternate position on alternating lines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's worth saying again that the piece feels pretty smooth on both the top and bottom sides, even though it looks awful. I don't know what to make of that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/n1zZA.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/n1zZA.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Ripples on the top side towards the middle of the plate&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12981" LastEditorUserId="12981" LastEditDate="2018-10-24T22:25:16.213" LastActivityDate="2020-09-25T09:49:21.587" Title="What causes ripples on part of first layer?" Tags="|print-quality|pla|smoothing|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7230" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7229" CreationDate="2018-10-22T17:32:24.957" Score="1" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The first that I have in mind was connected with an acceleration, so you could play with it (set to half the current value and see the results)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The other source of that could be drive belt that is fiddling a little bit on the motor and idler shaft (visual check for any play on the motor/shaft)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Next one could be connected with some obstructions in the filament path (as this is direct drive, the Bowden tube could add an extra load if it was bent or spool is blocked)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;As this is coreXY type printer could you set in slicer filing angles to 0deg and 90deg? That will force booth motors to run in the same time and eliminate a not holding torque on the other motor (or from other hand please check if the other motor gets some play when the head is going diagonally)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9730" LastEditorUserId="9730" LastEditDate="2018-10-22T20:25:27.437" LastActivityDate="2018-10-22T20:25:27.437" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7231" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7214" CreationDate="2018-10-22T17:40:14.917" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would guess that a printer made in the following way would be both poor quality, and annoyingly frustrating, as well as requiring constant tinkering/re-adjustment. Also, if the chassis of the CD/DVD drive is incorporated into the design (as below) then the print volume is rather small, given the inherent limited movement of a CD/DVD mechanism. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the steppers are used &lt;em&gt;without&lt;/em&gt; the CD/DVD chassis then it &lt;em&gt;might&lt;/em&gt; be possible to increase the print volume but then you would need to spend extra on the rods and support structure for the X gantry, the Y-axis print bed, and the Z-axis movement. If you do that, then the steppers from the CD/DVD drive probably would not have sufficient torque to move the additional weight - by incorporating the CD/DVD chassis the inertia of the movement has been kept to an acceptable minimum.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By using the CD/DVD drive's stepper motors you are only really saving the cost of buying three or four actual, more powerful and useful, stepper motors (as well as the cost of the additional rods and support).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, it could be quite amusing to make, and show off, and also provide some satisfaction if you do manage to print a tiny frog, parts for another printer, or whatever, with it.  However, I wouldn't expect it to print anything to any great accuracy/tolerance/precision/etc., but it would maybe give you something unusual to talk about at dinner parties.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;An example&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is this (IMHO unjustifiably&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;) popular (i.e. well linked-to) Instructables guide: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.instructables.com/id/eWaste-60-3DPrinter/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;EWaste 60$ 3DPrinter&lt;/a&gt;, which describes making a 3D printer from old desktop computer parts&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nJOWS.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;EWaste 60&lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$ 3DPrinter&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nJOWS.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;EWaste 60$&lt;/span&gt; 3DPrinter&quot; title=&quot;EWaste 60$ 3DPrinter&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to &lt;a href=&quot;https://hackaday.com/2014/12/05/e-waste-printer-looks-nice-prints-really-really-small/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;E-waste printer looks nice, prints really, really small&lt;/a&gt;, it has an awesome print volume of  37&amp;nbsp;mm x 37&amp;nbsp;mm x 18&amp;nbsp;mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Apparently, all you need is to salvage:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2 DVD drives (&lt;a href=&quot;http://robocup.idi.ntnu.no/wiki/images/c/c6/PL15S020.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Matsushita stepper datasheet&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 floppy disk drive (ensure it has steppers and not simple d.c. motors)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 PC power supply&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then purchase these standard 3D printing components:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;RAMPS &amp;amp; Arduino Mega or RepRap Gen6/7 - Capable of running Marlin/Sprinter frimware&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Nema 17 stepper motor for the extruder - Either &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.pbclinear.com/Download/DataSheet/Stepper-Motor-Support-Document.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt;, or better still something from &lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/wiki/NEMA_17_Stepper_motor&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;RepRap Wiki - Nema 17&lt;/a&gt;, i.e. &lt;em&gt;Kysan 1124090/42BYGH4803&lt;/em&gt;, &lt;em&gt;Rattm 17HS8401&lt;/em&gt;, or &lt;em&gt;Wantai 42BYGHW609&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;MK7/MK8-type direct drive gear for extruder&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;PTFE tubing&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hotend (throat, heaterblock, nozzle)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Heater&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Thermistor&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cables, female connectors, heat-shrink tube.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To make the frame, you need a 325&amp;nbsp;mm x 362&amp;nbsp;mm, 5&amp;nbsp;mm thick acrylic sheet, and use this template (missing files):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/atxTE.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Laser cut template#1&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/atxTE.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Laser cut template#1&quot; title=&quot;Laser cut template#1&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;or this one (&lt;a href=&quot;https://www112.zippyshare.com/v/ygIIq6aq/file.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;cnc-calisma-yalniz.dwg&lt;/a&gt;):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QCiBM.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Laser cut template#2&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QCiBM.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Laser cut template#2&quot; title=&quot;Laser cut template#2&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will also need to 3D print these parts (the links to which have died):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Extruder idle&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Extruder body&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hot end holder&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you've gathered all of the parts required, you can then try to work through the incomplete assembly steps of the Instructables guide.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Other links&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A very similar printer also made from an old DVD drive, Instructables: &lt;a href=&quot;https://hackaday.com/2015/11/14/an-e-waste-3d-printer-for-every-child/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Curiosity 80\$ EWaste Educational 3D Printer&lt;/a&gt;. See also &lt;a href=&quot;https://hackaday.com/2015/11/14/an-e-waste-3d-printer-for-every-child/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;An E-waste 3D printer for every child?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A very complete, and IMHO, a &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;much more doable&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; E-waste printer, Instructables: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.instructables.com/id/Complete-newbie-step-by-step-3D-printer-with-all-p/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Complete Newbie Step by Step, 3D Printer With All Parts Lists&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Other Instructables, that I've not really looked into:&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.instructables.com/id/Super-Cheap-3D-Printer-From-CD-Rom-Drives/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Super Cheap 3D Printer From CD-Rom Drives&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.instructables.com/id/Cherry-60-3D-Printer/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Cherry- 60€ 3D-Printer&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.instructables.com/id/Poor-Mans-3D-Printer/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Poor Man's 3D Printer&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.instructables.com/id/3d-Printer-for-Less-Than-100-USD/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Chimera: \$60 DLP High-Res 3D Printer&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.instructables.com/id/3d-Printer-for-Less-Than-100-USD/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;3d Printer for Less Than \$100 USD!!!&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.instructables.com/id/A-low-cost-3D-printer-with-basic-tools/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;A Low Cost 3D Printer With Basic Tools&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Thingiverse: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1429273&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;\$65 3D printer made from recycled electronic waste&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Footnotes&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; Most, if not all, of the links for the printer above are dead (&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.instructables.com/id/Complete-newbie-step-by-step-3D-printer-with-all-p/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this variant&lt;/a&gt;, mentioned above in &lt;strong&gt;Other links&lt;/strong&gt;, is much more complete). However, with a bit of knowledge, and common sense, it should be possible to work through those omissions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Marlin software - easy enough to find on Github&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The frame laser cut - the original file is missing but an alternative is still available&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The 3D printed parts for the extruder - as the links have died, you'll either need to find reasonable facsimiles on Thingiverse, which shouldn't be too hard to find, or buy them from cheap Chinese suppliers:&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Extruder idle&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Extruder body&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hot end holder&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; Funnily enough, whilst searching around looking for information to fill in the gaps in the above answer, I found this question on 3DP.SE: &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/4925/missing-print-steps-in-e-waste-3d-printer&quot;&gt;Missing print steps in e-waste 3d printer&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4762" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-10-23T06:40:45.587" LastActivityDate="2018-10-23T06:40:45.587" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7232" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7229" CreationDate="2018-10-22T18:46:31.510" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;First layer rippling is usually caused by a too low of a first layer height (for the amount of extruded filament).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are you sure that:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your bed is leveled as good as possible, and&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the initial height between the nozzle and the bed is correct when Z=0 (A4 paper thickness, when moved should be giving some drag), and&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the bed is flat. &lt;em&gt;(This is most probably your actual problem!)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To minimize the effects, you could try to:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;increase the first layer height, or&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;set an additional Z offset in the slicer, or &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;reduce the filament flow for the first layer, or&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;install an automatic bed leveling sensor, or&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;perform a manual bed levelling mesh procedure (if you have Marlin Firmware).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This usually helps fighting these ripples.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-11-01T06:02:05.013" LastActivityDate="2018-11-01T06:02:05.013" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7234" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7226" CreationDate="2018-10-23T10:43:45.927" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;sub&gt;Caveat emptor: This answer is probably not what you're expecting.&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as I can make out after looking at &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/I4vamb5LMqs?t=77&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this un-jamming video&lt;/a&gt; on YouTube, where at time 00:01:24, the video shows a label that needs to be cut to open up the extruder. However, as mentioned at the end of the same video, cutting that label will void Makerbot's warranty cover on the extruder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From that, I can make out that Makerbot will actively discourage any efforts to disseminate the kind of information you're looking for, at least until the product is discontinued. That would usually include a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.dmca.com/faq/What-is-a-DMCA-Takedown&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;DMCA takedown notice&lt;/a&gt; to Google to remove search engine results, as well as similar takedown notices to other places where such information is hosted. I expect you will not find such information easily.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="150" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-10-23T12:21:59.610" LastActivityDate="2018-10-23T12:21:59.610" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7235" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2018-10-23T11:32:20.340" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Thermoplastic elastomers (TPE), sometimes referred to as thermoplastic rubbers, are a class of copolymers or a physical mix of polymers (usually a plastic and a rubber) which consist of materials with both thermoplastic and elastomeric properties.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is useful for printing flexible 3D shapes, where the plastic has qualities similar to that of rubber.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="150" LastEditorUserId="150" LastEditDate="2018-10-23T12:01:17.813" LastActivityDate="2018-10-23T12:01:17.813" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7236" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2018-10-23T11:32:20.340" Score="0" Body="For questions regarding Thermoplastic Elastomers which are flexible plastics." OwnerUserId="150" LastEditorUserId="150" LastEditDate="2018-10-23T12:01:13.320" LastActivityDate="2018-10-23T12:01:13.320" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7237" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2018-10-23T11:36:25.367" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Nylon is a generic designation for a family of synthetic polymers, based on aliphatic or semi-aromatic polyamides, and is a popular material in the plastics industry, known for its toughness and flexibility. Nylon filaments typically require extruder temperatures near 250 ºC, however, some brands allow printing at temperatures as low as 220 ºC due to their chemical composition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="150" LastEditorUserId="150" LastEditDate="2018-10-23T12:00:50.263" LastActivityDate="2018-10-23T12:00:50.263" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7238" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2018-10-23T11:36:25.367" Score="0" Body="For questions regarding Nylon filament" OwnerUserId="150" LastEditorUserId="150" LastEditDate="2018-10-23T12:00:55.303" LastActivityDate="2018-10-23T12:00:55.303" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7239" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2018-10-23T11:58:51.707" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Prusa Research was founded as a one-man startup in 2012 by Josef Prusa, a Czech hobbyist, maker and inventor - and now one of the most famous names in the 3D printing industry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="150" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-12-16T18:24:21.907" LastActivityDate="2019-12-16T18:24:21.907" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7240" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2018-10-23T11:58:51.707" Score="0" Body=" Questions using this tag should involve generic questions about the company Prusa Research" OwnerUserId="150" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-12-16T18:24:21.907" LastActivityDate="2019-12-16T18:24:21.907" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7241" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2018-10-23T12:04:22.323" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;code&gt;DeltaWASP 20 40&lt;/code&gt; is a 3D printer manufactured and branded by WASP. More details &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.3dwasp.com/en/delta-printer-delta-wasp-2040/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="150" LastEditorUserId="150" LastEditDate="2018-10-23T13:07:04.230" LastActivityDate="2018-10-23T13:07:04.230" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7242" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2018-10-23T12:04:22.323" Score="0" Body=" Questions using this tag should involve the DeltaWASP 20 40 3D printer manufactured and branded by WASP" OwnerUserId="150" LastEditorUserId="150" LastEditDate="2018-10-23T12:18:35.693" LastActivityDate="2018-10-23T12:18:35.693" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7243" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2018-10-23T12:08:08.397" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Duplicator I3 Mini 3D printer that a 3D printer is manufactured by Wanhao. More details &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wanhao3dprinter.com/Unboxin/ShowArticle.asp?ArticleID=70&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="150" LastEditorUserId="150" LastEditDate="2018-10-23T13:07:08.510" LastActivityDate="2018-10-23T13:07:08.510" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7244" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2018-10-23T12:08:08.397" Score="0" Body="Questions using this tag should involve the Duplicator I3 Mini 3D printer that is manufactured by Wanhao" OwnerUserId="150" LastEditorUserId="150" LastEditDate="2018-10-23T12:17:53.413" LastActivityDate="2018-10-23T12:17:53.413" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7245" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2018-10-23T12:14:54.273" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;code&gt;FolgerTech FT-5&lt;/code&gt; is a now-discontinued large-scale FDM 3D printer manufactured by Folger Technologies. It has been succeeded by the &lt;a href=&quot;https://folgertech.com/collections/3d-printer-full-kits/products/folger-tech-ft-5-large-scale-3d-printer-kit&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;code&gt;Folger Tech FT-5 R2&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="150" LastEditorUserId="150" LastEditDate="2018-10-23T13:07:25.140" LastActivityDate="2018-10-23T13:07:25.140" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7246" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2018-10-23T12:14:54.273" Score="0" Body="Questions using this tag should involve the FT-5 3D printer that is manufactured by Folger Technologies" OwnerUserId="150" LastEditorUserId="150" LastEditDate="2018-10-23T12:18:29.627" LastActivityDate="2018-10-23T12:18:29.627" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7247" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2018-10-23T12:26:02.480" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Adventurer 3 is a FDM 3D printer manufactured by FlashForge Corporation. More details &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.flashforge.com/3d-printer/adventurer-3/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="150" LastEditorUserId="150" LastEditDate="2018-10-23T13:06:54.007" LastActivityDate="2018-10-23T13:06:54.007" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7248" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2018-10-23T12:26:02.480" Score="0" Body="Questions using this tag should involve the Adventurer 3 3D printer that is manufactured by FlashForge Corporation" OwnerUserId="150" LastEditorUserId="150" LastEditDate="2018-10-23T13:07:18.760" LastActivityDate="2018-10-23T13:07:18.760" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7249" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2018-10-23T12:30:35.340" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;code&gt;FLSUN QQ&lt;/code&gt; is a FDM/FFF 3D printer manufactured by FLSUN.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="150" LastEditorUserId="150" LastEditDate="2018-10-23T13:07:10.990" LastActivityDate="2018-10-23T13:07:10.990" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7250" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2018-10-23T12:30:35.340" Score="0" Body="Questions using this tag should involve the FLSUN QQ 3D printer that is manufactured by FLSUN " OwnerUserId="150" LastEditorUserId="150" LastEditDate="2018-10-23T13:06:50.067" LastActivityDate="2018-10-23T13:06:50.067" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7251" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2018-10-23T12:32:39.870" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The iBox Nano is a 3D resin printer manufactured by iBox Printers. The project started as a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/826799607/ibox-nano-worlds-smallest-least-expensive-3d-print&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;kickstarter&lt;/a&gt; and more details can be found there&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="150" LastEditorUserId="150" LastEditDate="2018-10-23T14:50:34.753" LastActivityDate="2018-10-23T14:50:34.753" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7252" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2018-10-23T12:32:39.870" Score="0" Body="Questions using this tag should involve the iBox Nano 3D resin printer that is manufactured by iBox Printers" OwnerUserId="150" LastEditorUserId="150" LastEditDate="2018-10-23T13:06:56.987" LastActivityDate="2018-10-23T13:06:56.987" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7253" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2018-10-23T12:33:42.940" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Replicator V2 is a 3D printer that is manufactured by Makerbot Industries. More details &lt;a href=&quot;https://downloads.makerbot.com/replicator2/MakerBot_Replicator2_brochure.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="150" LastEditorUserId="150" LastEditDate="2018-10-23T14:50:37.513" LastActivityDate="2018-10-23T14:50:37.513" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7254" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2018-10-23T12:33:42.940" Score="0" Body="Questions using this tag should involve the Replicator V2 3D printer that is manufactured by Makerbot Industries" OwnerUserId="150" LastEditorUserId="150" LastEditDate="2018-10-23T13:07:28.373" LastActivityDate="2018-10-23T13:07:28.373" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7255" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2018-10-23T12:37:31.947" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Microstepping is a way of moving the stator flux of a stepper more smoothly than in full- or half-step drive modes. This results in less vibration, and makes noiseless stepping possible down to 0 Hz. It also makes smaller step angles at the expense of a decreased incremental torque which can lead to less accurate positioning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is achieved by using pulse-width modulated (PWM) voltage to control current to the motor windings. The driver sends two voltage sine waves, 90 degrees out of phase, to the motor windings. While current increases in one winding, it decreases in the other winding. This gradual transfer of current results in smoother motion than full- or half-step control.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="150" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-10-23T12:46:46.883" LastActivityDate="2018-10-23T12:46:46.883" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7256" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2018-10-23T12:37:31.947" Score="0" Body="this tag is for questions involving Microstepping" OwnerUserId="150" LastEditorUserId="150" LastEditDate="2018-10-23T13:06:46.607" LastActivityDate="2018-10-23T13:06:46.607" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7257" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2018-10-23T12:44:38.733" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Polycaprolactone (PCL) is a biodegradable polyester with a low melting point of around 60 °C and a glass transition temperature of about −60 °C. The most common use of polycaprolactone is in the manufacture of speciality polyurethanes. Polycaprolactones impart good resistance to water, oil, solvent and chlorine to the polyurethane produced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PCL rod feed stock was one of the first raw materials extruded through a RepRap extruder. PCL is of potential interest to the RepRap community because the low melting point makes it somewhat easier to extrude. A low melting temperpature reduces the burden on the extruder, potentially allowing simpler (and thus easier to replicate) extruder mechanisms. While interesting from a research standpoint, this is not a significant design driver for the current RepRap and RepRap-like 3D printers that are available. The vast majority of low-cost 3D printers currently in operation use PLA and ABS.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PCL can be mixed with carbon black to make a printable conductive filament called carbomorph, as described in this paper: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.plosone.org/article/info%3Adoi%2F10.1371%2Fjournal.pone.0049365&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;A Simple, Low-Cost Conductive Composite Material for 3D Printing of Electronic Sensors&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="150" LastEditorUserId="150" LastEditDate="2018-10-23T13:07:22.773" LastActivityDate="2018-10-23T13:07:22.773" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7258" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2018-10-23T12:44:38.733" Score="0" Body="This tag is for questions regarding 3D printing of polycaprolactone (PCL)" OwnerUserId="150" LastEditorUserId="150" LastEditDate="2018-10-23T13:07:31.200" LastActivityDate="2018-10-23T13:07:31.200" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7259" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2018-10-23T13:01:18.213" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;FlashForge Corporation was founded in 2011 and is a manufacturer of 3D printers, based out of China.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="150" LastEditorUserId="150" LastEditDate="2018-10-23T13:07:14.810" LastActivityDate="2018-10-23T13:07:14.810" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7260" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2018-10-23T13:01:18.213" Score="0" Body="Questions using this tag should involve products of FlashForge Corporation " OwnerUserId="150" LastEditorUserId="150" LastEditDate="2018-10-23T13:07:34.443" LastActivityDate="2018-10-23T13:07:34.443" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7261" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2018-10-23T13:13:09.197" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;LulzBot is a 3D printer product line of Aleph Objects, Inc. More details &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.lulzbot.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="150" LastEditorUserId="150" LastEditDate="2018-10-23T14:50:39.853" LastActivityDate="2018-10-23T14:50:39.853" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7262" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2018-10-23T13:13:09.197" Score="0" Body="Questions using this tag should involve the LulzBot 3D printer product line manufactured by Aleph Objects, Inc." OwnerUserId="150" LastEditorUserId="150" LastEditDate="2018-10-23T14:50:31.023" LastActivityDate="2018-10-23T14:50:31.023" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7263" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7217" CreationDate="2018-10-23T19:18:57.583" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;This is not an answer/explanation per se, but it might help you track down the cause.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It &lt;em&gt;might&lt;/em&gt; be worth &lt;a href=&quot;http://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M928.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;enabling logging&lt;/a&gt; &lt;code&gt;M928&lt;/code&gt; to the SD card (ensure that the R/W tab on the SD card is set appropriately), so that (after this has happened a few times) then you can look through the log to see what the command preceding the abort was, and if it is consistently the same (sequence of) commands that cause this to happen. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;M928 filename&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If that doesn't throw up anything obvious, then, in conjunction with logging, you could enable debugging, see &lt;a href=&quot;http://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M111.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;code&gt;M111&lt;/code&gt; Debug level&lt;/a&gt;. For example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;M111 S7 ; ECHO, ERRORS, INFO&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then run through the long print again. As before, after a few of the &lt;em&gt;click to resume print&lt;/em&gt; messages, then go back and check the log for anything that might indicate why this is happening.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To subsequently disable the debugging:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;M111 S0&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4762" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-10-24T11:24:52.960" LastActivityDate="2018-10-24T11:24:52.960" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7264" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7265" CreationDate="2018-10-23T19:53:08.303" Score="11" ViewCount="43816" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have what I thought would be a simple question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't have an auto leveling probe, I do my leveling manually with 4 screws and a piece of paper (I measured the thickness to 0.1&amp;nbsp;mm).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the longest time I would have trouble with the first layer, sometimes having to give the bed screws a quarter turn to bring the bed up a bit. I would see that the nozzle seemed quite far away from the bed. This went on for the longest time and I just chalked it up to the quality of my printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I realized recently that when I level the bed, I am inserting a piece of paper in between the nozzle and the bed. Obviously, I should be taking the thickness into account as a 0.1mm thick piece of paper accounts for 50&amp;nbsp;% higher than the nozzle should be for a 0.2&amp;nbsp;mm first layer height.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is, how do I set (either in Cura or directly in Marlin config) the z home offset to account for the 0.1&amp;nbsp;mm thickness of my calibration paper?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9960" LastEditorUserId="9960" LastEditDate="2023-04-08T00:41:37.270" LastActivityDate="2023-04-08T00:41:37.270" Title="How to set the Z home offset" Tags="|marlin|ultimaker-cura|bed-leveling|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7265" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7264" CreationDate="2018-10-23T20:11:23.933" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is preferred to get the distance correct by hardware changes (leveling screws). But it is possible to do it with software. You can not only change the Z offset in the slicer or in the configuration of Marlin, but also with G-code commands.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &amp;quot;paper drag&amp;quot; method is perfect for determining the correct Z level. Once you leveled with the paper, you do not need to create an offset to account for the paper thickness, however, there are purists that do that. So basically, what we call Z=0 is in fact Z=&amp;quot;paper thickness&amp;quot;, unless you are a purist. But a slightly larger gap makes printing much easier. Too small heights cause e.g. rippling effects or too much pressure build-up in the nozzle. In order to change your offset after leveling, you could try one of the following methods. This is sometimes a useful method for creating a little extra offset for printing PETG, but personally I do not do that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;In Ultimaker Cura&lt;/strong&gt;:&#xA;Open the plugin manager (&amp;quot;Toolbox&amp;quot;-&amp;gt;&amp;quot;Browse packages...&amp;quot;) and install &amp;quot;Z Offset Setting&amp;quot;, a new parameter will be available in the &amp;quot;Build Plate Adhesion&amp;quot; settings menu called &amp;quot;Z Offset&amp;quot;. (See also &lt;a href=&quot;/a/5939/5740&quot;&gt;this older, not up-to-date answer&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;In Marlin configuration file&lt;/strong&gt;, modify the MANUAL_Z_HOME_POS constant:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;//#define MANUAL_Z_HOME_POS 0&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;In G-code&lt;/strong&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By adding the following lines to your start G-code (see e.g. &lt;a href=&quot;/a/4746/5740&quot;&gt;this answer&lt;/a&gt;) using the &lt;a href=&quot;http://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/G092.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;code&gt;G92&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/a&gt; G-code command:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;G0 Z0.2 ; Move the head to 0.2 mm (so now 0.3 on your machine)&#xA;G92 Z0  ; Call this Z = 0&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;or when you are able to connect to the printer over USB using a printer terminal (e.g. Pronterface, Repetier or OctoPrint) using the &lt;a href=&quot;http://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M206.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;code&gt;M206&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/a&gt; G-code command:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Use M206 to apply a persistent offset to the native home position and coordinate space. This effectively shifts the coordinate space in the negative direction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;M206 Z-0.2 ; Will raise the Z height by 0.2 mm&#xA;M500       ; Stores the offset in memory&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively, when you cannot connect through a terminal, putting the last 2 lines in a text file and saving that as a &lt;code&gt;.gcode&lt;/code&gt; file on an SD card and &amp;quot;printing&amp;quot; the file will also store the new offset (if &lt;code&gt;M500&lt;/code&gt; is enabled in the configuration file: &lt;code&gt;#define EEPROM_SETTINGS // Enable for M500 and M501 commands&lt;/code&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2023-01-02T13:57:56.357" LastActivityDate="2023-01-02T13:57:56.357" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7266" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7224" CreationDate="2018-10-23T20:17:32.457" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are using fishing line, it would perhaps work to wrap the line around the pully and fastening it to the pully (both ends), so that the line wraps around the pully.  One side would play out from the pully while the other was wrapping around it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By attaching the ends of the line to the pully, there will be no slippage between the line and the pully.  The knots aren't needed, and their irregularity won't affect the print quality.  The problem will be if and when the fishing line wraps tightly over itself and jams.  This can be mitigated a bit by having the two ends on opposite sides of the pully, and perhaps adding guide wires to direct the line to the proper side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Usually, mechanisms like this involve good control of the wrapping and unwrapping, but this might work well enough to print a new pully.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thin aircraft cable might be a good alternative to fishing line.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2082" LastActivityDate="2018-10-23T20:17:32.457" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7267" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7154" CreationDate="2018-10-23T20:32:14.357" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have a depth map (a raster file with the height at each point), OpenSCAD has the ability to read the height map and create a 3D object.  That 3D object can then be exported as an .STL file, and sliced normally.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have done this (maybe 3 years ago), and it worked well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This &lt;a href=&quot;http://aggregate.org/MAKE/TRACE2SCAD/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;site&lt;/a&gt; includes a list of available tools.  I probably used one of these, as I could easily convert my particular depth map to a PNG or other image file.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once the file is in STL format, you can choose how best to print it for your printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2082" LastActivityDate="2018-10-23T20:32:14.357" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7268" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-10-24T00:51:54.300" Score="3" ViewCount="3730" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I have been printing lately, and got a new spool of filament. It will extrude when I pre-heat the nozzle and manually extrude it, however when I start to print, it doesn't extrude any filament. Sometimes it works with different filament, but not always. How can I fix this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13284" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-12-10T06:18:57.120" LastActivityDate="2019-12-10T06:18:57.120" Title="Monoprice maker select v2 doesn't extrude but is not clogged" Tags="|monoprice-maker-select|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ClosedDate="2018-10-30T19:26:07.923" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7269" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2018-10-24T04:03:29.770" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Tronxy P802 is an FDM printer manufactured by &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.tronxy.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Shenzhen Tronxy Technology Co., Ltd&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="150" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-05-20T12:03:46.087" LastActivityDate="2021-05-20T12:03:46.087" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7270" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2018-10-24T04:03:29.770" Score="0" Body="Questions using this tag should involve the Tronxy P802 series of 3D printers manufactured by Shenzhen Tronxy Technology Co., Ltd." OwnerUserId="150" LastEditorUserId="150" LastEditDate="2018-10-24T06:59:15.180" LastActivityDate="2018-10-24T06:59:15.180" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7271" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2018-10-24T04:07:31.423" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Tronxy X5 is a printer of the X Series of FDM 3D printers manufactured by &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.tronxy.com/x-series/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Shenzhen Tronxy Technology Co., Ltd&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="150" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-05-20T12:04:24.957" LastActivityDate="2021-05-20T12:04:24.957" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7272" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2018-10-24T04:07:31.423" Score="0" Body="Questions using this tag should involve the Tronxy X5 3D printer manufactured by Shenzhen Tronxy Technology Co., Ltd. " OwnerUserId="150" LastEditorUserId="150" LastEditDate="2018-10-24T06:59:18.740" LastActivityDate="2018-10-24T06:59:18.740" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7273" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2018-10-24T04:09:00.787" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Tronxy X1 is a printer of the X Series of FDM 3D printers manufactured by Shenzhen &lt;a href=&quot;https://tronxy.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Tronxy Technology Co., Ltd&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="150" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-05-20T11:54:03.130" LastActivityDate="2021-05-20T11:54:03.130" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7274" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2018-10-24T04:09:00.787" Score="0" Body=" Questions using this tag should involve the Tronxy X1 3D printer manufactured by Shenzhen Tronxy Technology Co., Ltd. " OwnerUserId="150" LastEditorUserId="150" LastEditDate="2018-10-24T07:00:00.577" LastActivityDate="2018-10-24T07:00:00.577" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7275" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2018-10-24T04:21:25.237" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The TMC2130 provides an integrated motor driver solution for 3D-Printing, Cameras, Scanners and other automated equipment applications. More details &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.trinamic.com/products/integrated-circuits/details/tmc2130/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="150" LastEditorUserId="150" LastEditDate="2018-10-24T06:59:12.470" LastActivityDate="2018-10-24T06:59:12.470" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7276" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2018-10-24T04:21:25.237" Score="0" Body="Questions using this tag should involve the TMC2130 integrated motor driver manufactured by TRINAMIC" OwnerUserId="150" LastEditorUserId="150" LastEditDate="2018-10-24T06:59:24.543" LastActivityDate="2018-10-24T06:59:24.543" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7277" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2018-10-24T04:39:10.400" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;code&gt;123D Catch&lt;/code&gt; is a software tool that creates 3D models from series of photographs taken at various angles using photogrammetry. It is part of the discontinued 123D suite of hobbyist CAD and 3D modelling tools created by Autodesk. More details &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Autodesk_123D&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="150" LastEditorUserId="150" LastEditDate="2018-10-24T06:59:46.757" LastActivityDate="2018-10-24T06:59:46.757" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7278" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2018-10-24T04:39:10.400" Score="0" Body=" Questions using this tag should involve the 123D Catch software tool created by Autodesk" OwnerUserId="150" LastEditorUserId="150" LastEditDate="2018-10-24T06:59:38.637" LastActivityDate="2018-10-24T06:59:38.637" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7279" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2018-10-24T04:45:49.640" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The 101HERO is a FDM delta 3D printer manufactured by 101HERO LIMITED. More details &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.101hero.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="150" LastEditorUserId="150" LastEditDate="2018-10-24T06:59:27.357" LastActivityDate="2018-10-24T06:59:27.357" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7280" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2018-10-24T04:45:49.640" Score="0" Body="Questions using this tag should involve the 101HERO  3D printer manufactured by 101HERO LIMITED" OwnerUserId="150" LastEditorUserId="150" LastEditDate="2018-10-24T06:59:43.077" LastActivityDate="2018-10-24T06:59:43.077" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7281" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7283" CreationDate="2018-10-24T08:07:14.670" Score="7" ViewCount="514" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Tevo Tarantula, the problem is that PTFE is getting pulled back to the extruder gears and stopping filament extrusion, do you know how to solve this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/z9PUJ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Image&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bYsr0.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Extruder gears&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bYsr0.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Extruder gears&quot; title=&quot;Extruder gears&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One hypothesis I have is that there is a cooling problem in the hot end while a retraction is made, causing the extruder motor to pull the PTFE in it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Suggestions appreciated!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13286" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2018-10-26T07:39:16.433" LastActivityDate="2018-10-26T07:39:16.433" Title="PTFE pulled into extruder gears" Tags="|extruder|tevo-tarantula|bowden|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7283" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7281" CreationDate="2018-10-24T09:18:06.330" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;You are probably right, I have a Tarantula as well, and this happened many times to me. The reason is mostly because &lt;strong&gt;the hotend fan gets too hot&lt;/strong&gt;, stops working, then, the filament in the aluminium heat sink &lt;strong&gt;melts and sticks the filament&lt;/strong&gt; inside the PTFE tube. Then, on the retraction, the PTFE is &lt;strong&gt;pulled into the gears&lt;/strong&gt; just like on your picture. Also, the filament &lt;strong&gt;stops getting extruded&lt;/strong&gt; a few moments later.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One solution for that was to buy a new PTFE tube with a pneumatic connector that doesn't allow it to slide into the gears. However, the diameter of the screw thread (of the one that I bought) was too large, so I had to design a new static block for the extruder to fit it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I chose this type of &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1M-3D-Printer-PTFE-Tube-for-Long-distance-3D-Printer-J-head-Hotend-for-1-75mm/32639908963.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;1mm PTFE teflon tubing&lt;/a&gt; from aliexpress for my replacement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maybe you can find a pneumatic connector with the proper diameter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However the real solution is to check &lt;strong&gt;why the heat sink is getting too hot&lt;/strong&gt;. I bought a few other fans and printed an additional support for them on the hotend and I am making sure the fan &lt;strong&gt;stays on&lt;/strong&gt; all the time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope it helps!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5649" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2018-10-25T07:46:03.117" LastActivityDate="2018-10-25T07:46:03.117" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7284" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2018-10-24T10:28:58.600" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;For questions about 3D printing parts which are compatible with the interlocking plastic &amp;quot;Lego&amp;quot; bricks. Lego Systems A/S manufactures a line of colourful bricks, which are accompanied by an array of gears, figurines called minifigures, and various other parts. More details &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lego&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For generic Lego questions, please visit our sister site &lt;a href=&quot;https://bricks.stackexchange.com/&quot;&gt;Bricks Stack Exchange&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="150" LastEditorUserId="4808" LastEditDate="2020-10-11T21:04:05.710" LastActivityDate="2020-10-11T21:04:05.710" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7285" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2018-10-24T10:28:58.600" Score="0" Body="For questions about 3D printing parts which are compatible with the interlocking plastic &quot;Lego&quot; bricks manufactured by Lego System A/S. For generic Lego questions, please visit our sister site Bricks Stack Exchange." OwnerUserId="150" LastEditorUserId="4808" LastEditDate="2020-10-11T21:04:13.423" LastActivityDate="2020-10-11T21:04:13.423" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7287" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7217" CreationDate="2018-10-24T12:54:09.440" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;To answer your question directly, this action (&lt;code&gt;Click to resume...&lt;/code&gt;) is triggered by a buffer overflow of the Marlin firmware that is caused by the repetitive sending of &lt;code&gt;M105&lt;/code&gt; command by Ultimaker Cura (without checking the result).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This problem is a &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/Ultimaker/Cura/issues/3994&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;reported problem&lt;/a&gt; and fixed in the next release of Ultimaker Cura (please do note that as of posting this answer, the 3.6 Beta release is available for &lt;a href=&quot;https://ultimaker.com/en/blog/52744-ultimaker-cura-36-beta-available-now&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;download&lt;/a&gt;). It appears to be a communication problem between Ultimaker Cura 3.4+ and 1.1.8+ versions of the Marlin firmware and has to to with polling of the temperature (&lt;code&gt;M105&lt;/code&gt;). The link above also states it is fixed in the 3.6 release (which is the next release) as the fix has been integrated in the main code base.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This describes the problem:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;To update the temperatures in the monitor, Cura sends M105 pings every&#xA;  2 seconds. It seems that if this is done during a print without&#xA;  waiting for an &lt;code&gt;OK&lt;/code&gt; from the printer, the serial buffer on the printer&#xA;  may still overflow eventually (causing Marlin to complain/pause).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and this describes the solution:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;During some operations, such as preheating, the printer responds to&#xA;  new commands with &lt;code&gt;echo:busy&lt;/code&gt;. While it is busy, it does send&#xA;  temperature messages, but these are not prepended with an &lt;code&gt;ok&lt;/code&gt;,&#xA;  because the &lt;code&gt;ok&lt;/code&gt; is supposed to show that a command was received and&#xA;  executed. So the two patches I wrote do the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;the pattern matching no longer looks for &lt;code&gt;ok&lt;/code&gt; messages, but looks for&#xA;  temperature updates (this fixes the temperature updating while the&#xA;  printer is preheating) &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;once the printer has said that it is busy, stop&#xA;  asking for temperature updates until the next &lt;code&gt;ok&lt;/code&gt; is received (this&#xA;  prevents the serial buffer overflowing while preheating)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Old answer centered around the firmware (based on the text of the OP, no photo with the actual error message was added yet):&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strike&gt;The text &lt;code&gt;click to resume print&lt;/code&gt; cannot be found (with case insensitive search) in the latest sources of Marlin 1.1.9 down to Marlin 1.1.6. This means that you are using a different fork, an older version of Marlin or the message is not displayed as such.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The text message &lt;code&gt;Resume print&lt;/code&gt; can be found, and is part of the message constant &lt;code&gt;MSG_RESUME_PRINT&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#define MSG_RESUME_PRINT                    _UxGT(&quot;Resume print&quot;)&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But, this cannot be found in some sort of a concatenation using &lt;code&gt;MSG_RESUME_PRINT&lt;/code&gt;!&lt;/strike&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-11-06T09:52:17.223" LastActivityDate="2018-11-06T09:52:17.223" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7288" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7289" CreationDate="2018-10-24T17:03:39.637" Score="5" ViewCount="939" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a part with hair strands, such as the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2007221&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Hairy Lion on Thingiverse&lt;/a&gt;, and I want to print it on a Stratasys F370. The thin strands are intended to print without support, bridging to the exterior wall. Although the bridges are quite long, it doesn't matter if they sag, because they will be heat-treated afterwards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://cdn.thingiverse.com/renders/fd/5a/17/1c/d7/6d2b2c7253516ff7b54ee1d3be0aa6a7_preview_featured.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Hairy Lion printing method&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But when I open the STL file in GrabCAD Print, the slicer gets over-protective of those long bridges, and inserts soluble support for every one. As well as being a huge waste of support material, it would take ages to dissolve out all of that support, and it's completely unnecessary. However, there are other parts of the model that overhang and do need support, so I can't just disable support completely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I avoid supporting these bridges?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13100" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2018-10-25T07:47:28.197" LastActivityDate="2018-11-18T10:07:06.050" Title="Print &quot;hairs&quot; without support in GrabCAD Print" Tags="|support-structures|grabcad-print|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7289" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7288" CreationDate="2018-10-24T17:03:39.637" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's no way to do this in GrabCAD Print alone, but you can achieve it using Insight, which you can reach from the &lt;strong&gt;Apps&lt;/strong&gt; menu in Print. The steps are as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Open your STL file in Insight.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Go to &lt;strong&gt;Modelers&lt;/strong&gt; → &lt;strong&gt;Setup…&lt;/strong&gt; and set the printer, layer height, and material to the same as in Print. If you get these wrong, you won't find out until you get to the end and Print refuses to print the part.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use one of the red icons to slice your print, with or without the wall thickness filter.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use the red and green icon to generate support. You'll notice all of your hairs are now supported.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Go to &lt;strong&gt;View&lt;/strong&gt; → &lt;strong&gt;Display options…&lt;/strong&gt;. Set &lt;strong&gt;View only&lt;/strong&gt; to &lt;strong&gt;Group curves&lt;/strong&gt;, and then &lt;strong&gt;Group to view&lt;/strong&gt; to &lt;strong&gt;All support&lt;/strong&gt;. This filters out the (red) model curves, showing only the (green) support curves.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Go to &lt;strong&gt;Edit&lt;/strong&gt; → &lt;strong&gt;Delete…&lt;/strong&gt;. Then left-click and drag a box around the unnecessary supports. For my part, dragging the 3D view to be top-down made it easy to drag a box around just the hair supports while leaving the other supports untouched, but it'll depend on the shape of your part.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In the right panel, make sure the delete mode is set to &lt;strong&gt;Curves&lt;/strong&gt;, and click &lt;strong&gt;OK&lt;/strong&gt;. Now all your supports should be gone. At this stage you can set the display options back how they were if you want to inspect your model further.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use the green circle icon to create toolpaths&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;File&lt;/strong&gt; → &lt;strong&gt;Save As…&lt;/strong&gt; → &lt;strong&gt;Toolpath&lt;/strong&gt; to save as a .cmb or .cmb.gz file.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Go back to GrabCAD Print. (You can close Insight now if you want.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;File&lt;/strong&gt; → &lt;strong&gt;Import CMB&lt;/strong&gt; and choose the file you just saved.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;CMB files show up very boxy on the tray view (and Print will display a warning about that), but if you go into slice preview mode, you should see it as it was in Insight, with just the right supports.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's one caveat with this method. The slicer generates the base as a single contour, so deleting the supports under the hairs doesn't remove that section of base, and AFAIK you can't make the slicer recompute just the base (so generating support again would put the original supports back). You could edit the base contour before step 8, or disable the base completely in the support options before step 4, but the amount of support material saved probably isn't worth the effort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13100" LastEditorUserId="13100" LastEditDate="2018-11-18T10:07:06.050" LastActivityDate="2018-11-18T10:07:06.050" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7290" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7229" CreationDate="2018-10-24T22:24:24.077" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The main problem is solved (first layer thickness vs leveled nozzle height).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The following image shows the problem. I was running with a default 0.3 mm first layer (the tooltip setting says a slightly thicker layer helps with adhesion). The build plate was correctly leveled with &amp;quot;midrange&amp;quot; friction on the leveling card at the leveling points.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Problem cause: The midrange leveling height put the nozzle too close to the plate and caused rippling. The first layer thickness was set to 0.3 mm and the thickness of the leveling card was 0.25 mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The following image illustrates the problem (and one of the solutions). The bottom right of the image shows rippling. Not knowing what else to do with the &amp;quot;too close&amp;quot; or &amp;quot;too far&amp;quot; or &amp;quot;unlevel&amp;quot; tips in the comments, I just manually lowered the build plate knobs 1/4 turn while the print was in progress. The print began in the lower right. You can see the smooth area where I manually lowered the build plate. Then, to be sure, I raised the plate by restoring the 1/4 turn on the knobs. The rippling returned.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/S4Gdr.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Ripples disappear when build plate is lowered 1/4 turn on the knobs&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/S4Gdr.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Ripples disappear when build plate is lowered 1/4 turn on the knobs&quot; title=&quot;Ripples disappear when build plate is lowered 1/4 turn on the knobs&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To further explore the 0-90 degree suggestion provided by profesor79, I changed the slicer degree settings to 0-90 degrees and set the first layer thickness to 0.2 mm, which was equivalent to lowering the build plate knobs by 1/4 turn. I kept the same &amp;quot;midrange&amp;quot; friction settings when leveling. The result was a first-layer print with no rippling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Eixiu.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;No ripples with 0-90 degree settings and new build plate distance&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Eixiu.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;No ripples with 0-90 degree settings and new build plate distance&quot; title=&quot;No ripples with 0-90 degree settings and new build plate distance&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Closing Thoughts&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From this experience, I think:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;0.05 mm difference between a thickness of 0.3 mm on the first layer and a leveling-card nozzle height of 0.25 mm makes a rippling difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Using mid-range friction vs light friction on the leveling card also makes a difference. You don't need much of a height difference to reach 0.05 mm. Maybe even less is required to cause a ripple.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;When printing with a first layer thickness of 0.2 mm, tolerances were tight and I discovered a spot on my build plate that had no adhesion because of a buildup of old adhesive. It left a 1/2-inch hole in the 0.2 mm-thick first layer. I also noticed just a hint of ripple in another place on the build plate, which (I think) indicates a tiny magnetic build plate thickness or warp issue of some kind. Hardly noticeable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I think I will go forward with a 0.3 mm layer thickness to &amp;quot;absorb&amp;quot; minor flatness inconsistencies in my plate. (I have a glass plate but I have never used it because the magnetic plate is vastly more convenient.) But, to compensate for rippling effects, I will also use a &amp;quot;very light&amp;quot; friction amount when leveling the plate to ensure that the nozzle doesn't get too close to the plate on the first layer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I found that manually adjusting the build plate height during a solid first layer print was a wonderful way to detect, see, and explore all the relationships between plate leveling, plate flatness, first layer thickness, and friction adjustments on the nozzle. It's very easy to immediately see, understand, and adjust all the related settings to get the best print possible from the machine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you again to everyone who contributed ideas to understanding the problem. It's hard to pick any particular answer because the solution involved multiple ideas, so I have added my own answer to share.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12981" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:29:41.667" LastActivityDate="2019-03-11T18:16:42.573" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7291" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2018-10-25T05:03:31.777" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;M3D LLC is a 3D printer manufacturer founded in 2012, and based in the state of Maryland of the USA. More details &lt;a href=&quot;https://store.printm3d.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="150" LastEditorUserId="150" LastEditDate="2018-10-25T07:40:08.657" LastActivityDate="2018-10-25T07:40:08.657" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7292" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2018-10-25T05:03:31.777" Score="0" Body="Questions using this tag should involve the manufacturer M3D" OwnerUserId="150" LastEditorUserId="150" LastEditDate="2018-10-25T07:40:59.740" LastActivityDate="2018-10-25T07:40:59.740" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7293" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2018-10-25T05:06:50.557" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;In electrical engineering, ground or earth is the reference point in an electrical circuit from which voltages are measured, a common return path for electric current, or a direct physical connection to the earth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Electrical circuits may be connected to ground (earth) for several reasons. In mains powered equipment, exposed metal parts are connected to ground so that if, due to any fault conditions, a &quot;line&quot; supply voltage connection occurs to any such conductive parts, the current flow will then be such that any protective equipment installed for either overload or &quot;leakage&quot; protection will operate and disconnect the line voltage. This is done to prevent harm resulting to the user from coming in contact with any such dangerous voltage in a situation where the user may, at the same time, also come in contact with an object at ground/earth potential. In electric power distribution systems, a protective earth (PE) conductor is an essential part of the safety provided by the earthing system. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More details &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ground_(electricity)&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="150" LastEditorUserId="150" LastEditDate="2018-10-25T06:16:03.927" LastActivityDate="2018-10-25T06:16:03.927" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7294" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2018-10-25T05:06:50.557" Score="0" Body=" Questions using this tag should involve electrical grounding" OwnerUserId="150" LastEditorUserId="150" LastEditDate="2018-10-25T06:16:07.050" LastActivityDate="2018-10-25T06:16:07.050" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7295" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2018-10-25T05:11:24.497" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;MatterControl is a free, open-source, all-in-one 3D software package created by MatterHackers Inc. More details &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.matterhackers.com/store/l/mattercontrol/sk/MKZGTDW6&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="150" LastEditorUserId="150" LastEditDate="2018-10-25T06:16:09.897" LastActivityDate="2018-10-25T06:16:09.897" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7296" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2018-10-25T05:11:24.497" Score="0" Body="Questions using this tag should involve the MatterControl 3D printing software made by MatterHackers Inc." OwnerUserId="150" LastEditorUserId="150" LastEditDate="2018-10-25T06:16:00.707" LastActivityDate="2018-10-25T06:16:00.707" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7297" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2018-10-25T06:25:20.800" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The T3D is a 3D resin printer that is manufactured by Taiwan 3D Tech CO.,LTD,. More details available on the &lt;a href=&quot;http://myt3d.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;manufacturer's site&lt;/a&gt; and on the kickstarter &lt;a href=&quot;http://kck.st/2xNJKeH&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;project page&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="150" LastEditorUserId="150" LastEditDate="2018-10-25T07:48:14.610" LastActivityDate="2018-10-25T07:48:14.610" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7298" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2018-10-25T06:25:20.800" Score="0" Body="Questions using this tag should involve the T3D 3D resin printer manufactured by Taiwan 3D Tech CO.,LTD." OwnerUserId="150" LastEditorUserId="150" LastEditDate="2018-10-25T07:48:25.333" LastActivityDate="2018-10-25T07:48:25.333" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7299" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2018-10-25T07:23:31.030" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;In mathematics, a Voronoi diagram is a method of partitioning a plane into regions which are called Voronoi cells. More details &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Voronoi_diagram&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is very easy to make a Voronoi pattern. Scatter randomly points on a plane, connect each point with a line to another point that is at its closest distance, and then bisect each of these lines with a perpendicular. After these lines are trimmed, what's left is a Voronoi pattern. More details &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.craftsmanspace.com/free-patterns/voronoi-2d-patterns.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="150" LastEditorUserId="150" LastEditDate="2018-10-25T07:48:21.233" LastActivityDate="2018-10-25T07:48:21.233" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7300" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2018-10-25T07:23:31.030" Score="0" Body="Questions using this tag should involve Voronoi diagram based patterns." OwnerUserId="150" LastEditorUserId="150" LastEditDate="2018-10-25T07:47:59.900" LastActivityDate="2018-10-25T07:47:59.900" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7301" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2018-10-25T07:48:41.973" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Wade extruder coldend is a geared direct-drive extruder that was created for the RepRap Mendel by Wade Bortz in 2010. More details &lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/wiki/Wade%27s_Geared_Extruder&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Over time, it has been used as a basis for a lot of other Extruder designs. More details &lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/wiki/Genealogy_/_Archeology_of_the_Greg%27s_Wade%27s_Geared_Extruder&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="150" LastEditorUserId="150" LastEditDate="2018-10-25T09:34:58.520" LastActivityDate="2018-10-25T09:34:58.520" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7302" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2018-10-25T07:48:41.973" Score="0" Body="Questions using this tag should involve the Wade extruder coldend" OwnerUserId="150" LastEditorUserId="150" LastEditDate="2018-10-25T09:33:47.770" LastActivityDate="2018-10-25T09:33:47.770" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7303" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2018-10-25T09:57:21.260" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Questions using this tag should be primarily related to &lt;a href=&quot;https://grabcad.com/print&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;GrabCAD Print&lt;/a&gt;, the free 3D printing software made by Stratasys for use with Stratasys printers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="150" LastEditorUserId="30940" LastEditDate="2022-03-25T19:07:55.153" LastActivityDate="2022-03-25T19:07:55.153" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7304" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2018-10-25T09:57:21.260" Score="0" Body="Questions using this tag should be primarily related to GrabCAD Print, the free 3D printing software made by Stratasys for use with Stratasys printers." OwnerUserId="150" LastEditorUserId="30940" LastEditDate="2022-03-25T19:07:55.153" LastActivityDate="2022-03-25T19:07:55.153" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7305" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7307" CreationDate="2018-10-26T03:17:41.230" Score="3" ViewCount="3179" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have some leftover resin (100 ml) that I`m not planing to use anymore. What is a safe way of disposing it that doesn't involve curing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13299" LastEditorUserId="150" LastEditDate="2018-10-26T11:06:03.197" LastActivityDate="2020-08-19T23:20:05.263" Title="Safe way of disposing resin" Tags="|sla|resin|disposal|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7306" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4814" CreationDate="2018-10-26T05:01:33.777" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;From what I understand, you're trying to partition your object into smaller pieces with the hopes of putting them back together in a manner similar to a Jigsaw puzzle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are two options that I know of to do this, which requires using OpenSCAD:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:35834&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;PuzzleCut&lt;/a&gt; library - This allows you to disassemble your object into a multiple pieces that can be assembled together in a jigsaw puzzle type manner&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:310652&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;PinCut&lt;/a&gt; library - This allows you to disassemble your objects into multiple pieces that than be reassembled using the pins and corresponding holes on the pieces.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="150" LastActivityDate="2018-10-26T05:01:33.777" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7307" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7305" CreationDate="2018-10-26T07:01:16.317" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Resin is notoriously hard to handle, especially as exposure to air and light can and will cure it over time. The uncured resin is a hazardous material.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Handling hazardous waste&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rules for safe disposal can - generally speaking - be broken down to this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;make sure the hazardous material can't contaminate water or food sources&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;make sure the hazardous material won't be touched or ingested accidentally&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This means (for example for acids) that they are neutralized (to pH 7) and then handled as chemical waste.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;WHY?&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why go all these lengths? Let me explain with an example from Germany: The city of Leverkusen is the main site of Bayer. They produce pharmaceutical and chemical products there, which includes a lot of chemical and hazardous waste. Bayer knows how to handle waste, they handled &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.annualreport2015.bayer.com/management-report-annexes/fundamental-information-about-the-group/environmental-protection/waste-and-recycling.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;541000 metric tons globally in 2015&lt;/a&gt;. Most of the following information comes from Germany, and is in German, but I do provide my sources.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the remains of pharmaceutical product production at Bayer in Leverkusen around 2007, the process, as I was told on a tour to the fabrication plant, was generally speaking this: The nasty stuff got neutralized and reacted in ways to make it inert, the resulting sludge got dried and incinerated to destroy most toxic compounds. The remains were bagged in thick plastic bags that were carefully stored with a catalogue of what was stored where in a dedicated chemical waste landfill with (iirc) 3 independent groundwater protection systems, covered with a thick plastic sheet, then with a several meters thick cover of carefully constructed layers of dirt, clay, cement, more plastic, gravel, and rock to protect the rhine and the ground-water. Today, this process is done by the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.currenta.de/medien/videos/entsorgungszentrum-leverkusen-buerrig.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Currenta&lt;/a&gt; in a similar way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the past, the landfills were less secure: the old landfill that was started by Bayer in 1923 in Leverkusen. It was used by Bayer, the local population and (for some time) the IG Farben. It was finally closed in 1965, contains 65000000 tons of waste, of which approximately 15% is residues of chemical processing (~1 million tons). Nobody ever cataloged what had been stored where in these times, one just knew that it was filled south to north. It had to be pretty much re-engineered &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.leverkusen.com/guide/index.php?view=00062&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;in the 1990s&lt;/a&gt; and brought it to match the (then) current landfill standard, for example with a &lt;a href=&quot;https://rp-online.de/nrw/staedte/leverkusen/senfgas-in-der-bayer-deponie-stadt-sagt-nein_aid-18344821&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;38m deep cement wall&lt;/a&gt;: Checks had found that nobody knew anymore where what materials were stored and that residues - among them possibly LOST - had found their way to the surface. These chemicals threatened to get into the Rhine and the water supply at some point. It also lead to a case of public domain and following demolition (for public health concerns) of a group of houses that had been erected on one part of the closed landfill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You see the length people go to keep you safe from chemical waste: LONG.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, how do we fix the problem at hand both safely and effectively?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Getting rid of small batches of resin&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The basic rules of handling hazardous waste (the two bulletin points) tell us we should take a two-step process:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;find a temporary storage solution (e.g. storing in a safe container)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;decide on a process that can get rid of the stuff in a safe way.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How could one fulfill the target number 2? I came up with three options:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;re-cycle the unused resin from the print-tub back into the resin for later prints of the same color/resin.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;find a specialist to take care of the uncured waste ( =&amp;gt; give it to the waste disposal center in a clearly marked container)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;make the material non-hazardous and allow disposal through the home-waste ( =&amp;gt; curing)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your local waste disposal service might charge a fee for taking care of your resin, but your problems end when you hand it over with old paints or other chemical waste. Check out who provides these services and what laws, rules and regulations apply for small batches of resin and paints.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A different kind of specialist that would take the resin could be a maker or artist that plans to use it in their own SLA/DLP printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Making it inert could be done by curing with only sunlight, without the need of much special equipment or chemicals in a very well ventilated area and make sure nobody touches it: pour the resin into a (disposable) mold like a cardboard box or yogurt cup. If you can't have a well-ventilated place, storing the resin in sealed transparent plastic or glass container (plastic bottle or marmalade glasses) in sunlight can cure the resin very slowly over time. Note that it will take quite some extra time, as such containers do &lt;a href=&quot;https://hps.org/publicinformation/ate/q12178.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;filter out some&lt;/a&gt; of the 400 nm light that commonly cures the resin.&#xA;The resulting resin chunk can be handled like any plastic block once thoroughly hardened through: Use it for other projects, as a paperweight or dispose of it through the normal waste.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;tl:dr;&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Until you have chosen a method to get rid of your resin, keep hold of it in a sealed container.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You might find a local maker or artist that would like your resin.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The best way to get rid of resin wastes without curing it yourself is handing it to a professional waste disposal service. Check your local laws, code and regulations about it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Curing it allows disposal through the normal garbage cycle.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2020-08-19T23:20:05.263" LastActivityDate="2020-08-19T23:20:05.263" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7308" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-10-26T09:41:12.907" Score="1" ViewCount="76" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a CTC Formaker 4 in 1 3D Printer. It has worked great for a long while but now it is messing up. It will print fine for awhile and then the filament will stop coming out but the printer keeps moving like it thinks it is still printing. If I clear the print job and start over, it again prints fine at first but then I get the same end results. Please help me fix this problem. I have not been able to find a solution on Google.  Also I am using the latest version of MatterControl.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13303" LastEditorUserId="150" LastEditDate="2018-10-29T11:01:37.617" LastActivityDate="2018-10-29T11:05:43.353" Title="CTC Formaker Air Printing" Tags="|troubleshooting|mattercontrol|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7309" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7308" CreationDate="2018-10-26T11:06:35.763" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This sounds like a clogged nozzle. Try driving the filament into the hot end manually to verify that the plastic is flowing correctly. If there is a clog or other impediment in the nozzle, the filament will become curly as it is exiting the nozzle. A clear nozzle will always result in the filament extruding as one straight piece.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12857" LastActivityDate="2018-10-26T11:06:35.763" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7310" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7268" CreationDate="2018-10-26T11:13:17.953" Score="0" Body="&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Try advancing the extruder manually using the control interface. Extrude about 10 cm of filament to verify that everything is OK with the machine.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Is the filament curling on the way out of the nozzle? If so then there may really be a clog and you should clean it. Invest in some cleaning filament as well.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The idler bearing may not be pushing down on the filament tightly enough. Check that the spring which holds it in place has not become soft or broken.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The drive gear could be dirty. Plastic particle build up on the gear will cause it to slip. Clean the drive gear to remove all plastic build up.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Outside of this you could have a mechanical problem with extruder. Advance the motor using the control system (without filament installed) to verify that it is working properly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12857" LastActivityDate="2018-10-26T11:13:17.953" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7312" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7314" CreationDate="2018-10-26T19:09:32.363" Score="3" ViewCount="4274" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm 3D printing almost 2 years, and I expected to have better result after changing to complete smooth rods with new bearings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a problem with my Z axis giving me inconsistent prints; I already replaced the leadscrews, E3D clone with Bowden tube, I decided to replace all smooth rods on all axis and also the bearings. After I replaced all this, my prints are still bad, also I'm very dissapointed with the results after the replacements. I have checked all I could think of; PID tuning, belts, ....) but I'm running out of ideas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/33DQZ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/33DQZ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;inconsistent print layer results&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Printing settings:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;print speed is 40mm/s, &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;retraction is 3mm at 30mm/s, &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;extruder 205&amp;deg;C for the first layer, then 200&amp;deg;C&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13296" LastEditorUserId="150" LastEditDate="2018-10-29T11:01:10.367" LastActivityDate="2018-10-29T11:01:10.367" Title="Z Axis inconsistency - Geeetech I3" Tags="|z-axis|geeetech|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7313" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7312" CreationDate="2018-10-26T23:04:00.653" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;From the pictures can be seen that you have good lead screws as there is no cyclic anomaly/wobble present at the side. It appears as though the lines at the sides of the print are more or less random X/Y positional inaccurate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These lines can be caused by various reasons. From what is read you tried to improve the mechanical system by upgrading the hardware. It could still be the case that there is still some backlash or play left in the system (e.g. I had once had too much tolerance on the holes of the linear shafts in the printed X-Z mounts causing similar problems). Vibration should be looked into also, e.g. do you have a binding bearing or a large mass on the printer that interacts with the carriage movement like a spool holder on top of your frame. Or maybe the micro-stepping does not work optimally, so check the stepper driver currents.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it is no mechanical issue, it could be that you are facing inconsistent extrusion caused by variation in filament thickness or gear slipping or too much tension on the filament by friction in unspooling. Or else a hotend temperature variation. Maybe insulation on the hotend helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-10-27T12:02:16.767" LastActivityDate="2018-10-27T12:02:16.767" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7314" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7312" CreationDate="2018-10-27T06:41:15.243" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yesterday I tried some improvements, first I replaced the Y belt pulley, and aligned the frame which I thought to be non-perpendicular and removed the spool holder (which was the culprit of my problem) Attached photo shows a print after these improvements. I have insulation on my hotend. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think this is the quality I could expect from this cheap printer. Maybe I could reprint X axis gantry, but I'm a little tired of doing something on my printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9TChe.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9TChe.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Print after removing spool holder&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Update on my prints&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/P3JMI.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/P3JMI.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8JDAE.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8JDAE.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GlTMf.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GlTMf.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2RTyU.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2RTyU.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I see some elephant foot, but i will fix this by lift nozzle a bit, but is there some more improvements (temp, retraction, z-hop, coasting, ....) ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13296" LastEditorUserId="13296" LastEditDate="2018-10-27T09:04:49.597" LastActivityDate="2018-10-27T09:04:49.597" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7315" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7316" CreationDate="2018-10-27T11:01:33.287" Score="5" ViewCount="8763" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been running my i3 MK3 for about 12 hours now and the motor on the extruder is fairly hot, not too hot to touch but I'd guess its about 60c on the outside. Is this within normal operating temperatures or should I let it cool down before starting more prints?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13243" LastActivityDate="2019-06-17T17:30:17.360" Title="Is it ok for stepper motors to be hot?" Tags="|prusa-i3|motor|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7316" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7315" CreationDate="2018-10-27T14:29:37.437" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The maximum operating temperature can be found in the specifications of your steppers. Usually the ambient temperature operating conditions are limited to 50 &amp;deg;C with a maximum operating temperature in the range of 70 - 100 &amp;deg;C. For instance, the steppers I use are limited to a temperature of 80 &amp;deg;C. It is however advised to keep this temperature lower, e.g. to max. 60 &amp;deg;C to prolong the life. Do note that very high temperatures could be a problem for &quot;self-printed&quot; stepper mounts of the wrong material (materials with a low glass transition temperature).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To answer your question: &quot;Yes, steppers may get hot, but if you want them to get too hot is up to the mounting system and how long you want to use them.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-10-28T06:37:37.453" LastActivityDate="2018-10-28T06:37:37.453" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7317" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7318" CreationDate="2018-10-27T16:37:48.750" Score="8" ViewCount="4483" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have had my Prusa i3 clone for about two years and it has always made a screeching sound when the z-axis is moving down. I have tried many solutions for this problem like greasing the z-rods, printing a new top part (the holder at the top z-rods end) with a bearing to prevent the threaded rod from swaying, and even hot glueing bearing to the stock top piece. However, none of this has worked. I am not sure if it is affecting the print quality but the sound is very annoying when it is doing a lot of hops and I would like to fix it. Here is a video (with sound) of the rod moving up and down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/cCZK842ASIM&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Video&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6135" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-12-17T06:33:58.797" LastActivityDate="2019-12-17T06:33:58.797" Title="Screeching Noise when moving the Z-Axis Down" Tags="|prusa-i3|troubleshooting|z-axis|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7318" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7317" CreationDate="2018-10-27T16:53:35.780" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had this same problem. I attributed it to the linear bearings which ride on the 8mm travel rods. I did two things which ultimately eliminated the issue (since I did both at the same time, I'm not sure which solved the issue, but believe it's #1 below):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I replaced all of my ball type (stock) linear bearings with Igus Drylin linear bearings. I'm pretty sure the metal ball bearings were screeching along the 8mm metal rods. The Drylin bearings pretty much eliminated any noise on the rods. I replaced all of them for X, Y, &amp;amp; Z axis rods at the same time. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I used white lithium grease (just a small amount) on the Z-axis screw rod. This helped everything travel better. It should also help it last longer by preventing wear. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since I've done this, I've not had any screeching anymore. You don't have to use Drylin linear bearings, as there are other &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/search?q=linear+bearings&amp;amp;dwh=855bd497b914f61&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;printable options on Thingiverse.com&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11242" LastEditorUserId="11242" LastEditDate="2018-10-28T12:04:22.133" LastActivityDate="2018-10-28T12:04:22.133" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7319" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-10-27T19:15:13.870" Score="1" ViewCount="128" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I send &lt;code&gt;G1 E5&lt;/code&gt;, the extruder motor rotates, but does not stop. It keeps rotating until I restart the system. I am using a Ramps 1.4 board and OctoPrint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13314" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-10-27T22:28:25.780" LastActivityDate="2018-10-28T10:05:26.067" Title="Extruder motor does not stop after G1 E5" Tags="|extruder|marlin|motor|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7320" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7319" CreationDate="2018-10-28T02:14:23.197" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the printer is in absolute positioning mode (which is used almost exclusively), then the extruder will either wind back or wind forward to the last 5mm point. Effectively, the firmware treats the extruder like any other axis, and you can set the origin whenever and wherever you like (it doesn't have to be the home position). Use G92 to reset the extruder position as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;G92 E0 ; Set the extruder position to 0 (origin)&#xA;G1 E5  ; Extrude 5mm of filament&#xA;G92 E0 ; Set the extruder position to 0 again&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the usual way to purge filament in the slicer's start and end code. Note that you cannot rely on the current position being zero.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3953" LastEditorUserId="3953" LastEditDate="2018-10-28T10:05:26.067" LastActivityDate="2018-10-28T10:05:26.067" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7322" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2884" CreationDate="2018-10-28T07:31:36.237" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been printing for over 2 years directly onto the 3 mm Aluminum heated bed platform using a touch of PVA based print adhesion spray 3DLAC or Dimafix (see e.g. &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/6861/&quot;&gt;this answer&lt;/a&gt; on question &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/3710/should-you-use-hairspray-on-a-metal-bed-3d-printer&quot;&gt;Should you use hairspray on a metal bed 3D printer?&#xA;&lt;/a&gt;&quot;). I've obtained best results with 3DLAC. Works like a charm! Always good adhesion and a very shiny and flat surface finish. I have not found any downsides of printing directly onto the Aluminum, I find it very easy as I do not have to fight that dreadful tape (application, bubbling, tearing, etc.). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-07-05T07:42:33.363" LastActivityDate="2019-07-05T07:42:33.363" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7324" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-10-29T06:49:51.513" Score="4" ViewCount="67" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to print a case for a laptop display that I plan to turn into a second display. I have the &lt;code&gt;Ender 3&lt;/code&gt; printer, with a print area smaller than the case's size. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know I need to make it modular, but I am not sure of &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the best way to print something that is so large and relatively thin, so the connectors between the pieces are strong enough to hold it together (due to the large size compared to the thickness, i don't think regular &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/736/tips-for-making-parts-that-push-snap-together&quot;&gt;snap or plug conectors&lt;/a&gt; will suffice) &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;how to stop the layers from coming apart because the longer it is, the&#xA;more pressure applied to the join points if it flexes.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any help you can give will be greatly appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Liam.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13327" LastEditorUserId="13327" LastEditDate="2018-10-29T11:12:48.323" LastActivityDate="2018-10-29T11:12:48.323" Title="How to print an item the size and thickness of a laptop display?" Tags="|3d-models|creality-ender-3|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2018-10-30T19:24:26.467" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7325" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-10-29T09:56:29.457" Score="5" ViewCount="761" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just bought a 3D printer =&gt; Geeetech Prusa i3 b.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I build it myself and I'm trying to print the famous boat, the Benchy one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's my settings (I've tried Repetier host and Slic3r or Ultimaker Cura):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/plV7x.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/plV7x.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rr02rm.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rr02rm.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And that's the results..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EWdbc.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EWdbc.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LQ2OVs.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LQ2OVs.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6W4D7s.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6W4D7s.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/14yw0s.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/14yw0s.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cGjkp.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cGjkp.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zls14.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zls14.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any tips about the settings? The problem seems to be when I print every other layer but the first one which seems reasonable enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I used Slic3r with the settings taken from this video, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p_YN8Q9r-Tc&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;eBay Prusa i3 slic3r settings (comment response video)&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now the first layer is almost perfect but I still have problems with every other layers, too much filament comes out and it's all messy, a bit like the picture I posted above.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A video of the print can be found &lt;a href=&quot;https://drive.google.com/file/d/1zn3WD3jqsaNsu4DusT7dAE_pYMaR5Uus/view?usp=sharing&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The steps per mm value for the Z shaft is 2560.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13328" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-10-30T10:00:18.413" LastActivityDate="2018-10-30T10:19:21.960" Title="Prusa i3 pro b second layer failure" Tags="|print-quality|prusa-i3|layer-height|geeetech|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7326" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7325" CreationDate="2018-10-29T10:20:29.633" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You need to level the bed properly by setting the correct distance between the nozzle and the bed. Ideally, you need to be able to drag a piece of plain A4 paper between the nozzle and the bed when the nozzle is at &lt;code&gt;Z = 0&lt;/code&gt; giving you a little drag (you feel that by a stuttering movement). From your pictures you can clearly see that the nozzle is way too far from the bed when depositing the first layer (as seen from the video you posted in the comments) as the hot filament drops/falls down to the hot plate. Once it is too far from the plate, each consecutive layer is too far from the previous layer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the images you posted, it is clearly visible that you have a mechanical/calibration issue. Your belts are probably not tight enough too, but it is difficult to say at the moment as the products are way off from what they should look like.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that the printer configuration could be incorrect (although very unlikely as it is out of the box). E.g. the stepper motor needs to make a certain amount of steps to advance the carriage in Z direction. If the mechanical layout requires 400 steps per mm (which is typical for TR8x8 (p2) lead screws on 1.8&amp;deg;(200 steps per revolution) stepper motors and 1/16 microstepping) but is configured as 800, your layer height advances twice as much although the &lt;code&gt;Z=0&lt;/code&gt; level would be okay! I now read (from the updated question) that the value for the steps/mm for the Z axis is 2560, this implies that you are using M8 lead screws with a pitch of 1.25 mm on a 1/16 microstepping board and 200 steps per revolution steppers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the specifications of your printer follows that the Geeetech Prusa i3 Pro B uses:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Stepper Motors: 1.8° step angle with 1/16 micro-stepping&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This image show the configuration of the axes:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Nw5vL.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Nw5vL.png&quot; alt=&quot;Configuration of the Geeetech Prusa i3 Pro B&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So 2560 is correct! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Conclusion:&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your initial leveling and height setting is incorrect, when you printer is at &lt;code&gt;Z=0&lt;/code&gt;, it actually is positioned higher. Hence your first layer has very bad adhesion and is not properly flattened and each consecutive layer shows the same problems of falling hot filament. When the speed increases on the next layers the hot filament deposition cannot follow the nozzle, hence the &quot;spaghetti&quot; looks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-10-30T10:19:21.960" LastActivityDate="2018-10-30T10:19:21.960" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7327" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-10-29T12:17:18.867" Score="2" ViewCount="466" Body="&lt;p&gt;Back in 2015 I bought the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.cnet.com/reviews/monoprice-dual-extrusion-3d-printer-review/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Monoprice Dual Extruder 3D printer&lt;/a&gt; (I know it was a clone of a FlashForge or a Makerbot, but I don't remember which).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I played with it for a while but we moved and I never got back to it... Until now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It still had the SD card in it with my last attempt at 3D modeling, and it printed perfectly on the first attempt. So the printer is fine after a couple years in a box.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I use SketchUp Pro and have installed the STL export add-on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have the following questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What is the latest Software I should be using?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is there (more) current firmware I should update to?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6898" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-12-10T06:18:04.263" LastActivityDate="2019-12-10T06:18:04.263" Title="Print Software for Monoprice Dual Extruder" Tags="|software|monoprice-dual-extrusion|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7329" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-10-29T19:55:17.520" Score="8" ViewCount="340" Body="&lt;p&gt;After building a Delta printer, I noticed that my whole prints are slightly tilted around the Z-axis in comparison to the slicer (e.g. Cura). There is no twist layer wise. This means, the prints themself look actually perfect. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I just don't know what could be the reason of the rotation. I do not believe it is a build issue of the printer, because I tried to keep the printer frame pretty stiff and symmetric. &#xA;Could it be, that the Auto-Calibrate Feature of Marlin can add such a rotation?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The picture below illustrates the problem. I expect the black alignment of the print and get the orange one. Note that the print is still a rectangle with ~90° corners. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pXiHY.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pXiHY.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10847" LastEditorUserId="10847" LastEditDate="2018-11-07T09:32:03.370" LastActivityDate="2021-11-20T14:52:52.323" Title="Delta Printer: Slighty incorrect print alignment on the build plate" Tags="|delta|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7330" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7329" CreationDate="2018-10-29T22:48:11.590" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I am reading this correctly, your prints are being either stretched or your prints are shifting / leaning on more complicated prints. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this case, given that you are on a Delta printer, my answer is the same for all. I usually do Cartesian based 3d printing but the concept is the same for any drifting or leaning. You simply need to recalibrate your steps per MM for each motor, and tighten your belts. You will have the complication of the interaction of the 3 arms, that others will be able to answer better. But in the end, if each arm moves as it should, the belts are not slipping, and you do not have issues with moving too fast (jerking can cause the belt to shift, and a loose belt can cause whiplash / and other print artifacts). My bet is your steps per MM is off on one of the motors, or you could have an overheating issue (not likely). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are many &lt;a href=&quot;https://best3dprinter.stan-tech.com/delta-printer-calibration-guide-z-axis&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;guides&lt;/a&gt; to help with Delta specific calibration. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can provide a better answer with photos. See &lt;a href=&quot;https://stackoverflow.com/help/how-to-ask&quot;&gt;Stackoverflows guide on asking questions&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit with the diagram (not a photo), you issue might be caused by stepper over voltage and you will need to adjust your pololus. If you hear a repeating Thud noise, you have your voltage too high. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2146" LastEditorUserId="2146" LastEditDate="2018-10-31T16:37:22.570" LastActivityDate="2018-10-31T16:37:22.570" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7332" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7333" CreationDate="2018-10-30T17:22:34.917" Score="8" ViewCount="442" Body="&lt;p&gt;I got a Tevo Michelangelo as first 3D printer today and already got a problem with the bed leveling: The extruder nozzle is way below the build plate. (When I auto-home the axes, which I've done several times). I thought to just adjust the plate downwards, but it was incredibly slow, and there was almost no progress.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a picture, sorry for the bad quality:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/M3aGI.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Extruder nozzle below build plate&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/M3aGI.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Extruder nozzle below build plate&quot; title=&quot;Extruder nozzle below build plate&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I continue adjusting it downwoards via the screws (It's getting harder), or is there some other way to solve this? Or am I just making a dumb mistake?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12573" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2019-08-03T20:16:34.343" LastActivityDate="2019-08-03T20:16:34.343" Title="Tevo Michelangelo nozzle below build plate?" Tags="|nozzle|bed-leveling|build-plate|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7333" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7332" CreationDate="2018-10-30T18:55:49.590" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just move the Z-endstop up a little higher, also make sure the bed leveling screws are not completely screwed in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Move the head of the printer up.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Move up the Z-endstop so that the nozzle is a little higher than the build platform.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Home the printer.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Disable the stepper motors and move the head over the bed to a certain position (e.g. a corner without disturbing the Z axis), once you get to a new position of the bed, raise the bed by unscrewing the screws until a piece of paper shows noticeable drag when pulled between the nozzle and build platform.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Goto 3 until you have done all corners several times, also the center of the bed. It is advised to once in a while re-home the printer, this way accidental Z-axis movement is compensated again.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2018-10-30T18:55:49.590" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7334" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7335" CreationDate="2018-10-30T20:46:41.930" Score="6" ViewCount="421" Body="&lt;p&gt;As moving the endstop upwards reduces the range of the z-axis, I was wondering whether it reduces the maximum height of the printable object, by the distance the endstop was moved. Or is this somehow (to a certain extent) beeing counterbalanced?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Follow-up question of &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/7332/tevo-michelangelo-nozzle-below-build-plate&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; question)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12573" LastActivityDate="2019-08-07T14:13:19.057" Title="Does moving the z-endstop upwards affect the maximum height of the printable object?" Tags="|endstop|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7335" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7334" CreationDate="2018-10-30T21:00:14.863" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you move up the end stop such that it raises the nozzle with respect to the build platform you lose height, so basically the answer is yes. But, as seen in your referenced question, your nozzle location is determined by the mechanical layout of the printer and the end stop had to be raised in order to print at all. This means that although you have less height to move the Z gantry, it can now actually print the full range the printer is designed for (the max Z to print is fixed in the configuration of the firmware of the printer and is always smaller than the maximum Z of the mechanical layout). Theoretically, if you ever make a lower profile hotend head, you would be able to lower the end stop and gain a little in height and adjust the firmware maximum Z height.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;E.g. in Marlin firmware, for an Anet A8 3D printer,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#define Z_MAX_POS 240&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;in the &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/blob/1.1.x/Marlin/example_configurations/Anet/A8/Configuration.h&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Configuration.h&lt;/a&gt; file defines the maximum print height of 240 mm. If you would deliberately increase the Z end stop height and platform by let's say 50 mm, the printer thinks it still can print 240 mm, but in reality the gantry will crash against the top mounts and thus limit your printing height.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-10-31T09:50:41.080" LastActivityDate="2018-10-31T09:50:41.080" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7336" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-10-30T21:05:59.157" Score="2" ViewCount="544" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am trying to print a wing for a rc plane with my 3D printer. In order to make the wing as light as possible I need to hollow it (and afterwards put some stable structure there). I've tried the Blender Solidify modifier to do this but without success. The material on the sharp edge on the rear part of the wing gets thinner and thinner although the &quot;Even Thickness&quot; option is checked (see picture). When preparing this for printing, the slicer puts only one line of filament there instead of two. What I need is a brim on the inner side of the stl file with a constant spacing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XUo9C.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XUo9C.png&quot; alt=&quot;Blender Solidify problem&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've also tried the Meshmixer Hollow and Extrude modifiers. They both had problems with those sharp edges (see picture).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wPNym.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wPNym.png&quot; alt=&quot;meshmixer hollow problem&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The third program I've tested was FreeCAD. But it crashed at all :-(&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can someone please help me? I would appreciate any suggestion or other programs which can handle this problem. Remodeling is no option for me as I have even more complex objects to hollow for example the fuselage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The stl file of the wing can be found here: &lt;a href=&quot;https://files.fm/u/5futezwj&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://files.fm/u/5futezwj&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks so much for your help!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13341" LastActivityDate="2018-10-31T13:20:35.990" Title="Hollow wing for rc plane" Tags="|3d-models|slicing|cad|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7338" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7336" CreationDate="2018-10-31T05:20:15.433" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Don't design your part as hollow. Make it solid. Then put it in the slicer and chose the infill (i recomment cubic pattern in cura) you want. So you have a mainly hollow wing with a nice structure in it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9575" LastActivityDate="2018-10-31T05:20:15.433" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7339" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7336" CreationDate="2018-10-31T13:20:35.990" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am sorry to inform you, that the answer to &quot;How do I fix the thickness&quot; is &quot;Remodel them&quot; - especially in this case as the whole design is... awkward.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But you don't necessarily need to resign them from scratch, if you can fix it... But beware, fixing does only work &lt;strong&gt;sometimes&lt;/strong&gt;...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First of all, &lt;strong&gt;Blender is NOT a good modeling software for designing parts that shall be printed&lt;/strong&gt;, Blender is a 3D Artist program, not a CAD program. It can serve its course, but it can and will ruin your day. I suggest grabbing &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.autodesk.com/products/fusion-360/overview&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Autodesk Fusion 360&lt;/a&gt;, since it is mighty and free for small makers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Step 1: Transfer into CAD software&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For our first step, we want to take the surface of the Wing and export it as an STL. To do this, remove all interior vertices. ALL. Save as a work-project. Look for &quot;BAD&quot; areas - try to have as little vertices as possible. If several are in the same flat area feel free to remove some. The simpler, the better - compare these two pictures - left the bad side, right the good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IxrNM.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IxrNM.png&quot; alt=&quot;Bad side, unneeded vertices and faces&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DjNE9.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DjNE9.png&quot; alt=&quot;good side, jsut functional ones&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Export via &lt;code&gt;File &amp;gt; Export &amp;gt; .stl&lt;/code&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Open Fusion 360 and import via the process outlined &lt;a href=&quot;https://knowledge.autodesk.com/support/fusion-360/troubleshooting/caas/sfdcarticles/sfdcarticles/How-to-insert-a-mesh-body-into-Fusion-360.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;: &lt;code&gt;Insert &amp;gt; Mesh&lt;/code&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now we need to turn our Mesh into a BRep like described &lt;a href=&quot;https://knowledge.autodesk.com/support/fusion-360/learn-explore/caas/sfdcarticles/sfdcarticles/How-to-Convert-a-Mesh-to-a-BRep-in-Fusion-360.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Deactivate the pickup of model history by right-clicking the project in the left, then &quot;Don't capture design history&quot;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;code&gt;Modify &amp;gt; Mesh &amp;gt; Mesh tp BRep&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;choose your object and &lt;code&gt;OK&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;reactivate the model history by right-clicking the project in the left, then &quot;Don't capture design history&quot;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Step 2: assigning Thickness&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We got a surface now... or rather several that are stitched together. We want to give them thickness...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;code&gt;create &amp;gt; thicken&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;click on one area, choose the thickness as a negative value. For example &lt;code&gt;-1 mm&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;click on the body's lightbulb to make it visible again&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;rinse and repeat for each area not yet thickened&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hint: &lt;code&gt;rightclick&lt;/code&gt; opens a context menu that offers &lt;code&gt;repeat ...&lt;/code&gt;, where ... is the last used operation, in this case: thicken. This considerably can speed it up.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Step 3: Combining thickened parts&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, we have several thickened parts, all of them intersecting or touching. like, what usually looks like this...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Bagjv.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Bagjv.png&quot; alt=&quot;a part&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;actually is these different parts (which I colored for showing only - it is totally unnecessary!)&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/leVVI.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/leVVI.png&quot; alt=&quot;showing which is which&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's easy to see these all intersect. And luckily, intersecting parts can be easily merged! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;code&gt;Modify &amp;gt; Combine&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;click one, then another. OK.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;rinse and repeat as much as you can - some pieces will throw an &quot;inconsistent edge-face-relationship&quot; error. If these crop up, you need to start over, fixing the Mesh.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0s1sX.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0s1sX.png&quot; alt=&quot;After a little fixup - 2 parts remaining&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To state it clear after wasting 2 hours on this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Your files needs to be done again from scratch.&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In a proper CAD modeling software. Because what you have there is not fixable easily.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastActivityDate="2018-10-31T13:20:35.990" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7341" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6711" CreationDate="2018-10-31T16:45:27.980" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have recently changed the standard belts on my Prusa MK3 for the aramid fiber reinforced E3D neoprene belts. Those belts are really tough and hard to cut even with a quality side cutter! They have a much smoother surface and a lot more aramid fibers than the standard belts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Prior to the change, the belt on the X axis was twisting when changing directions, now it is running straight and smooth. Surface quality has improved a little, the ripples are smaller and more regular. Overall a small but noticeable improvement&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;P.S. I am using belt tensioners on both x and y axis.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13351" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-10-31T17:58:00.757" LastActivityDate="2018-10-31T17:58:00.757" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7344" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7352" CreationDate="2018-11-01T15:39:29.283" Score="3" ViewCount="1237" Body="&lt;p&gt;A while back, I had worked on building a &lt;a href=&quot;https://biber-boote.ch/yostwerks/SeaCruiser.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Yostwerks Sea Cruiser&lt;/a&gt;. Now I'm thinking of trying to create a 3D printable (or 3D millable) version of the plans.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The original design uses cross-sections cut from a half-inch thick HDPE sheet. However, I am considering changing this out for one of the easier to print materials, but I cannot find any comparative information about stiffness of HDPE versus other 3D printing materials.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I get a suggestion for a alternative to HDPE that is as stiff or stiffer as well as same density or lighter. The Kayak frame is expected to be compressing the cross-sections.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An example set of cross-sections is as below:&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://biber-boote.ch/yostwerks/images/NewSections.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Kayak Frame Cross sections&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please note that I have also considering changing the shape of the cross-sections to make stiffer yet lighter cross sections, but that will require some trade-off between portable sized cross-sections versus the stiffness of the cross-sections.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="150" LastEditorUserId="150" LastEditDate="2023-08-17T09:58:26.153" LastActivityDate="2023-08-17T09:58:26.153" Title="Good alternative to HDPE for FDM" Tags="|material|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7345" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7346" CreationDate="2018-11-02T00:18:26.663" Score="21" ViewCount="10096" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been asking around on how to choose the right temperature for a given filament. I noticed that with two different brands of pla I have to print at different temperatures, and the manufacturer specifies a broad range of print temperatures. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I keep hearing about heat towers, and have found &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/search?q=heat%20tower&amp;amp;dwh=55bdb96dc5f561&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;various examples&lt;/a&gt; on thingiverse. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is how do I actually print one? And then, how do I judge the results?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10422" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-11-02T08:41:45.900" LastActivityDate="2019-07-05T05:35:13.080" Title="How does one use a heat tower?" Tags="|print-quality|filament|slicing|calibration|print-material|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7346" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7345" CreationDate="2018-11-02T07:21:57.370" Score="23" Body="&lt;p&gt;When you slice an STL of a heat tower, &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;you need to tell the slicer&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; that you need a &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;different temperature at a certain level&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; and maintain that new temperature until another change is requested.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The way I usually do it is by &lt;em&gt;using a post processing script in Ulltimaker Cura&lt;/em&gt;, but you can do it yourself quite easily &lt;em&gt;by changing the G-code file manually&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To get it to work in Ultimaker Cura is to:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;open a heat tower STL model onto the virtual build plate,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;choose the correct print settings, e.g. fan speed, print speed, layer thickness, etc.,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;now navigate from the main top menu bar &lt;code&gt;Extensions -&amp;gt; Post Processing -&amp;gt; Modify G-Code&lt;/code&gt;,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;select &lt;code&gt;Add a script&lt;/code&gt; and choose &lt;code&gt;ChangeAtZ&lt;/code&gt;,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;you now are presented with an option (called &lt;code&gt;Trigger&lt;/code&gt;) that you can change options at either a certain &lt;code&gt;Height&lt;/code&gt; or at a certain &lt;code&gt;Layer No.&lt;/code&gt; number, you decide what you want to use based on the model and layersize used, but height can be chosen safely when you know the height changes in the heat tower model&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;set a certain height at which you want to change the print properties by specifying a height in option &lt;code&gt;Change Height&lt;/code&gt;,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;now put a checkmark in &lt;code&gt;Change Extruder 1 Temp&lt;/code&gt; (be sure that the box &lt;code&gt;Behavior&lt;/code&gt; is set to &lt;code&gt;Keep value&lt;/code&gt; so that it maintains this value until you specify otherwise, else it is only valid for a single layer),&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a new input box will be presented to you where you can enter the value of the extruder,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;repeat this adding of &quot;changes at certain height&quot; e.i. instances of &lt;code&gt;ChangeAtZ&lt;/code&gt; until you have specified all the temperatures for all the levels&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;now slice the model (if not done automatically) and save the G-code file for printing.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you look into the generated G-code file (the snippet below is taken from a G-code file for an Ultimaker 3) you will see that the post processing script will add extra lines in your G-code file. E.g. the following snippet shows you 2 changes of temperature, one at 5 mm (extruder 1 @ 250 &amp;deg;C), the other at 10 mm (extruder 1 @ 245 &amp;deg;C):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;...&#xA;;LAYER:48&#xA;G0 X93.4 Y132.161 Z5&#xA;;ChangeAtZ V5.1.1: executed at 5.00 mm&#xA;M117 Printing... ch@  5.0&#xA;M104 S250.000000 T0&#xA;...&#xA;...&#xA;;LAYER:98&#xA;G0 X93.4 Y132.35 Z10&#xA;;ChangeAtZ V5.1.1: executed at 10.00 mm&#xA;M117 Printing... ch@ 10.0&#xA;M104 S245.000000 T0&#xA;...&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bottom line is that the extruder needs to be instructed to be heated or cooled to a new temperature. This is also something you could have inserted yourself manually by adding the codes &lt;code&gt;M104 SXXX.000000 T0&lt;/code&gt; at specific levels where &lt;code&gt;XXX&lt;/code&gt; is the extruder temperature you need for that level.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically this describes &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;how to print&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; the heat tower calibration prints, not &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;the selection of the settings&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; (e.g. extruder temperature) to use for your prints. When you created the print file you are ready to print the tower and observe the quality of printing. You can look at the print and visually inspect the temperature giving you the best aesthetic performance, the best overhang performance, the best &quot;filling&quot; performance, highest speed, etc. It is &lt;strong&gt;you&lt;/strong&gt; that decides what is best for your application. Alternatively you could print some coupon tests and see which are structurally the best. Please note that additional towers for different settings like layer height, print part cooling and print speed to may be necessary to optimize the print process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Sidemark, I prefer the use of parametric models (e.g. in OpenSCAD) over the STL models found on the internet, this way I can embed the exact printer setting in the tower for reference. See e.g. &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/7135/5740&quot;&gt;this answer&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ERWy6m.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Heat tower front view&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ERWy6m.png&quot; alt=&quot;Heat tower front view&quot; title=&quot;Heat tower front view&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wYWOCm.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Heat tower backside view&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wYWOCm.png&quot; alt=&quot;Heat tower backside view&quot; title=&quot;Heat tower backside view&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-07-05T05:35:13.080" LastActivityDate="2019-07-05T05:35:13.080" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7348" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7344" CreationDate="2018-11-02T15:41:04.443" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Because of the inherent nature of FDM, material properties will most certainly be always lower than casted/extruded sheet material. Furthermore, your question implies to use the same geometry of the ribs, I doubt whether there will be a filament that is able to get close to your requirements regarding strength and stiffness (for the same geometry). Your best choice for filament would be a high strength filament type like PC, certain co-polyester and ABS. But, I'm more inclined to say that this whole question is more of a design issues rather than material selection issue. For that reason I struggled to vote to close as being off topic for this site. In aerospace engineering t-stiffeners are used to make panels, e.g. wing or hull sections, more stiff by riveting T-profile shaped aluminium stiffeners onto the panels, this is something you could consider (bolt on aluminium profiles), as well as incorporating these stiff ridges directly printed in your design, but that would change the shape of the ribs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2018-11-02T15:41:04.443" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7349" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4814" CreationDate="2018-11-02T16:22:35.727" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sorry to put it that way, but does 3D printing the best &quot;tool&quot; for your case? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;it seems you want to generate a huge flat file when a CnC would be the best to generate a clean and solid part.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Otherwise, as others suggets you are looking for a tooling tool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11129" LastActivityDate="2018-11-02T16:22:35.727" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7350" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-11-02T17:25:11.267" Score="1" ViewCount="412" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've just gotten my Geeetech A10. I have a 3dTouch sensor installed. I got my offset and calibration set.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I send a G1 or G0 command, regardless of arguments, it runs the print head off the front left of the bed [0,-6, 0]. I can send a G28 and it returns to the middle of the bed pretty much as expected.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For instance - I send G0 X10 Y10, it still runs to that same [0,-6, 0] position. Attempting to print anything is a no-go because every G1 or G0 sends it running back to that spot to spit filament off the edge of the bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've rebuilt firmware from Geeetech's linked sources twice. Everything works with control from the dial, it just doesn't interpret G-code in any useful way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13368" LastActivityDate="2018-11-02T17:25:11.267" Title="Marlin 1.1.8 on Geeetech A10 - G0 and G1 ignores coordinates, always runs to [0, -6, 0]" Tags="|marlin|geeetech|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7352" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7344" CreationDate="2018-11-04T16:47:35.517" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to &lt;a href=&quot;https://omnexus.specialchem.com/polymer-properties/properties/stiffness&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;the chart on this page&lt;/a&gt; HDPE has a flexural modulus of between 0.75 and 1.575 Gpa; meanwhile PETG has a flexural modulus of 2.20 Gpa, meaning PETG is the stiffer material.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;HDPE, by definition, has a density greater than 0.941g/cc.  PETG has a density of about 1.25g/cc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So while PETG may be denser (depending on the HDPE used), it is more rigid, while not being too rigid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PETG is quite printable using FDM.  If you were printing at a higher temperature and high % infill, I could see it holding up well enough.  I've printed heavy duty parts with it using a 0.8mm nozzle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4751" LastActivityDate="2018-11-04T16:47:35.517" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7353" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4814" CreationDate="2018-11-04T17:00:32.077" Score="1" Body="&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You mentioned youre using Fusion 360; if so, you could just &lt;a href=&quot;https://knowledge.autodesk.com/support/fusion-360/learn-explore/caas/simplecontent/content/how-to-split-solid-two-bodies.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;split your final body&lt;/a&gt; or component into separate bodies.  Then you could export each body separately.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Slic3r and Slic3r PE both have the &lt;strong&gt;Cut&lt;/strong&gt; command, but unfortunately it only will cut on the XY plane.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If you are on Windows 10, 3D Builder has a good tool for splitting STL files.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Open your STL in 3D Builder&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use the &lt;strong&gt;Edit&lt;/strong&gt; &gt; &lt;strong&gt;Split&lt;/strong&gt; command&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Adjust the plane to where you want the object cut&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Select &lt;strong&gt;Keep both&lt;/strong&gt; and click &lt;strong&gt;✓ Split&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Note that you can't export individual objects; you must copy each object into a new 3D Builder window to save it separately.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Meshmixer is an excellent tool to learn overall but has a learning curve.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4751" LastActivityDate="2018-11-04T17:00:32.077" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7355" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7357" CreationDate="2018-11-05T00:58:59.340" Score="2" ViewCount="99" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am modifying some Slic3r config parameters and comparing the results.  How can I have two instances (or equivalent: I would like to see two model windows with their associated configuration screens) of Slic3r at the same time?  I'm on OS X, but if there is a generic (e.g. within Slic3r) solution that will be preferrable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6851" LastEditorUserId="6851" LastEditDate="2018-12-02T21:32:34.620" LastActivityDate="2018-12-02T21:32:34.620" Title="How can I run two instances (or equivalent) of Slic3r on OS X?" Tags="|slic3r|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7357" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7355" CreationDate="2018-11-05T06:15:38.387" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;From a terminal window, run the command&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;open -n -a slic3r&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Each time the command is executed, a new instance of Slic3r is created.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As per Carl's note, keep in mind that both instances of Slic3r will be sharing the same configuration files, so it will be safest not to save configuration changes while both are open.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6851" LastEditorUserId="6851" LastEditDate="2018-11-08T22:24:00.390" LastActivityDate="2018-11-08T22:24:00.390" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7359" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7355" CreationDate="2018-11-05T08:27:06.043" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could duplicate the application by clicking on the application and pressing &lt;strong&gt;Command (⌘) + D&lt;/strong&gt;, and then run both - although I'm not sure if that would mess with the preferences. I haven't fully tested it, but both instances opened up and worked, seemingly ok.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bjNcI.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Duplicate applications&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bjNcI.png&quot; alt=&quot;Duplicate applications&quot; title=&quot;Duplicate applications&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could even rename them to something other than &quot;Slic3r&quot; and &quot;Slic3r copy&quot; to remind you which application is slicing which model, for example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&quot;TestCube&quot; and &quot;Benchy&quot;, or;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&quot;Slic3r-TestCube&quot; and &quot;Slic3r-Benchy&quot;, or whatever. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, Mark's answer seems much more elegant. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4762" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-11-05T12:07:41.343" LastActivityDate="2018-11-05T12:07:41.343" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7360" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-11-05T14:33:59.867" Score="2" ViewCount="670" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm new to 3d printing and need to design and print a case on an Ultimaker S5 using PLA. &#xA;The case is box like and consist of a top and a bottom part. I was thinking about cantilever snap-fits to join the two parts. I read that these snap-fits need to be printed in the X-Y-plane for better stability. However with the bottom/top side down the walls will be in the Z-axis and thus the snap-fits would be printed in the X-Z- plane. If I would print the part lying in it's side I would need a lot of support in the inside. How am I supposed to do this correctly? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also what tolerances should I use to make the parts fit well while still being separable? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13394" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2018-11-05T16:03:18.783" LastActivityDate="2019-06-01T09:31:38.553" Title="Cantilever snap-fits print axis" Tags="|pla|3d-design|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7361" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7360" CreationDate="2018-11-05T16:14:22.247" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Let's look at the general design.... it is a case... so a box of to halves. And we need some kind of connector...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How about splitting the connector into a &lt;em&gt;separate&lt;/em&gt; C-shaped piece? That way the connector clip can be printed with the C to the plane, getting maximum durability out of either pice. You just need to print some short overhangs, the &lt;em&gt;clip&lt;/em&gt; going around the central box, possibly in dedicated notches. Also, this is easily removable from the outside with a screwdriver. And easily replaceable. Also, both sides could be identical, if designed in the right way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or we use a slot in the lower body, and a Y shaped slot in the top, and make the connectors have a flat hook that matches into the lower body (push in from below) then the split top pushes through the top and latches in... This isn't removable from outside easily.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Third alternative: bolts. If the item inside the box - a PCB? - is going to be bolted to the lower case anyway, why not add extra long screws and have the top case be bolted to the lower case with the same screw that holds the PCB in place? Or, just use a pair of additional bolts and nuts on the corners.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: Recently, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tw4iP0luFVU&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Angus aka MakersMuse&lt;/a&gt; uploaded a video discussing snap-fit connections and how to make them 3D printable with the example of a backpack buckle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2019-06-01T09:31:38.553" LastActivityDate="2019-06-01T09:31:38.553" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7363" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7217" CreationDate="2018-11-05T22:10:49.840" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Tonight I had faced the same problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've read somewhere (can't find the source now) that this is a Cura bug that has been fixed in Cura 3.6 beta&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13395" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2018-12-01T11:18:54.947" LastActivityDate="2018-12-01T11:18:54.947" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7364" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7367" CreationDate="2018-11-06T00:34:34.183" Score="5" ViewCount="9044" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm new to 3D printing and I recently got my first 3D printer, an Ender 3 Pro by Creality.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've tried to find information about the type of nozzles should I look for. I'm trying to find stainless steel nozzles but there are so many models (M7, M8, etc.) and I have no idea what nozzle type I should get.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've tried searching on Google but the only info I could find is that the extruder is an MK-10.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am also looking for a heating cartridge for the hot end, but I still cannot find no information about the size that I need (15 mm/20 mm/30 mm). Also looked for info about the heated bed so I know what kind of thermistor I need (I found two types and no clue which one to get).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Where can I find some technical information about these?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13397" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-11-07T17:32:51.617" LastActivityDate="2021-12-05T16:00:50.967" Title="What parts are suitable replacements for an Ender 3 Pro?" Tags="|extruder|hotend|creality-ender-3|replacement-parts|part-identification|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7365" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1207" CreationDate="2018-11-06T06:47:53.710" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Use dental floss. It sounds a bit crazy, but I tried it for the first time yesterday, and it works like a charm. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wrap the floss around two handles for comfort.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Loop the floss over the print. All the way down against the build plate.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Start pulling towards yourself, slowly but firmly.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Work the floss side to side if necessary. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once the floss makes it all the way to the front side of the print, it will be removed from the buildtak cleanly, without torqueing the bed unnecessary, or popping the print of suddenly and flinging it across the room.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Glide style floss works better than waxed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10422" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-11-06T07:18:00.270" LastActivityDate="2018-11-06T07:18:00.270" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7366" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7364" CreationDate="2018-11-06T12:52:58.967" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is no such thing as a single MK10 hotend design. The Chinese aftermarket has mingled the designations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it has a &lt;a href=&quot;https://groups.google.com/forum/m/#!topic/wanhao-printer-3d/TEdslEknny4&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;MK10 like Makerbot&lt;/a&gt; hotend, then the nozzles you are looking for are M7 threads. It appears (see &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/7367/5740&quot;&gt;this answer&lt;/a&gt;) that your hotend is a cloned MK10 and has different dimensions, you have the M6 version.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Quote from link above: (this is about the Makerbot MK10)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;MK10 was a complete change of the hotend. MK10 uses smooth OD thermal&#xA;  barriers with a larger 4mm OD 2mm ID PTFE liner. MK10 also uses M7&#xA;  threads, vs the M6 of all previous models. This is because a 4mm PTFE&#xA;  liner is barely enough metal to make the outer tube with m6 threads.&#xA;  MK10 is completely incompatible with all previous hotend parts. Every&#xA;  part is different. Mk10 still uses MK9 feeder parts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could measure your current heat block (the width of the Aluminium block); if you look at the MK10 drawings  of a proper M7 MK10 Makerbot (or derivative) hotend (below) you see that the width of the block is about 19 mm (which would be the length of the heater cartridge).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9TftHm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9TftHm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;MK10 Aluminium heater block dimensions&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The CEO of ToyBuilder labs explains the difference between an &quot;MK10&quot; and an MK8 in &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UnI0aeTw9iA&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this video&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ah8Od.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ah8Od.png&quot; alt=&quot;&amp;quot;MK10&amp;quot; vs. MK8 nozzle&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As can be seen, your nozzle clearly is not an MK10.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-11-28T13:35:37.647" LastActivityDate="2018-11-28T13:35:37.647" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7367" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7364" CreationDate="2018-11-06T14:41:08.837" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Ender 3 takes an M6 thread (metric 6&amp;nbsp;mm diameter). Measurement of stock nozzle shown. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most sellers will list compatible printers Ender 2, Ender 3, Ender 4, CR-10, CR-10S, CR-10 Mini, CR-10-S4, CR-10-S5, CR-8, CR-7. Will Also Fit Any Other MK10 Heater Blocks. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I recently bought some titanium alloy nozzles as the brass one got closed over after crashing into the glass bed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/I1UPK.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Measurement of nozzle in digital calipers&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/I1UPK.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Measurement of nozzle in digital calipers&quot; title=&quot;Measurement of nozzle in digital calipers&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13402" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-11-06T16:54:37.853" LastActivityDate="2018-11-06T16:54:37.853" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7368" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6624" CreationDate="2018-11-06T14:54:32.320" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is intentional for the head to start slightly off the build plate. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it did start on the build plate you could crash the nozzle when the bed is not levelled. Note the level varies with temperature and build plate type. If you switch from PLA to ABS etc you should relevel the bed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having just had the innaccurate z-end stop switch cause a deep gouge across my stock build plate, I strongly recommend getting an ABL (auto bed leveller). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13402" LastActivityDate="2018-11-06T14:54:32.320" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7369" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7370" CreationDate="2018-11-06T21:39:45.397" Score="2" ViewCount="7480" Body="&lt;p&gt;After few good prints with my new Ender 3, I noticed that prints with longer shell straight lines (&gt; 5&amp;nbsp;cm) have extrusion problems in the middle of those lines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I figured that this might be because the printing speed (70&amp;nbsp;mm/s) and filament temperature (210&amp;nbsp;°C for PLA). So I increased my filament temperature about 215&amp;nbsp;°C and lowered print speed to 60&amp;nbsp;mm/s. I am using Cura v3.5.1. For the next few smaller prints everything was perfect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now I am printing a bigger 128&amp;nbsp;mm X 48&amp;nbsp;mm rectangular shape. In the middle of the 128mm line of the outer shell, I have signs of under extrusion. Looks like dents. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also notice that the head is really fast during this 128&amp;nbsp;mm travel. No way ~2 seconds would take 60&amp;nbsp;mm/s to travel 128&amp;nbsp;mm. It is more like 1 second or less.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why would my head travel at such speeds? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am attaching my speed settings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fkzvW.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Speed settings&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fkzvW.png&quot; alt=&quot;Speed settings&quot; title=&quot;Speed settings&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am attaching the image of the printed piece and the defect generated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5eQdB.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;The problem generated&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5eQdB.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;The problem generated&quot; title=&quot;The problem generated&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13406" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-11-07T01:38:44.483" LastActivityDate="2018-11-07T01:38:44.483" Title="Ender 3 seemingly speeds up too much on straight long shell lines" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|creality-ender-3|speed|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7370" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7369" CreationDate="2018-11-06T22:05:01.770" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your travel speed is set to 120mm/s so it would make sense the 128mm travel takes ~1 second. You most likely have combing turned on so that it doesn't not need to retract on travels. This makes it ooze plastic as it travels and would mimic underextrustion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11097" LastActivityDate="2018-11-06T22:05:01.770" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7371" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7329" CreationDate="2018-11-07T09:35:49.437" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I figured out that the reason is probably a slightly translated slider construction. Instead of using a proper centered slider as shown in &lt;strong&gt;red&lt;/strong&gt;, I used a slider construction like illustrated in &lt;strong&gt;yellow&lt;/strong&gt;. When all sliders are translated on each tower like this, the print should be tilted by the same amount. This seems to have no influence on the general shape of the object. However, for my next printer I will use a proper centered uni-body slider.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/92vvC.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Image of centered slider (in red) and (slightly) translated slider (in yellow)&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/92vvC.png&quot; alt=&quot;Image of centered slider (in red) and (slightly) translated slider (in yellow)&quot; title=&quot;Image of centered slider (in red) and (slightly) translated slider (in yellow)&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10847" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2021-11-20T14:52:52.323" LastActivityDate="2021-11-20T14:52:52.323" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7372" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7751" CreationDate="2018-11-08T13:41:13.097" Score="6" ViewCount="2042" Body="&lt;p&gt;I started using rafts more often, to get better results with complex or fragile parts, but my Ender 3 consistently under-extrudes the initial outside line of the raft (for the first inch or two, where extrusion starts). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is often very thin and does not adhere. This often leads to problems with the following pattern of raft layer 1 curling up (ABS) as it does not meet the edge line (due to the 1-2 inch gap in the perimeter).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Skirts avoid this problem by getting the flow going, but rafts only print a single outer line.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is it possible to specify more than one outer line on a raft in Ultimaker Cura?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is it possible to add a skirt to a print that has a raft (or at least some initial printing to get the flow going)?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is it possible to add some initial G-code that will extrude a line, say from near the start position to the start of the print?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zqaay.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;example of problem&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13402" LastEditorUserId="13402" LastEditDate="2018-11-10T11:25:29.047" LastActivityDate="2018-12-22T00:33:08.123" Title="Adding additional extrusion to a raft (raft with a skirt?)" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|extrusion|creality-ender-3|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7374" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7372" CreationDate="2018-11-08T15:22:19.963" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's not necessarily the case that the apparent underextrusion of a small portion of your raft is the root cause.  ABS is notorious for shrinkage and peeling.  As a start, you should have a full enclosure so as to maintain a warm environment while printing.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's also quite possible that your bed is slightly off-level or a few microns low for the first layer, either of which can cause adhesion problems.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, it's pretty much trivial to add a few lines of gcode to extrude prior to the &quot;official&quot; raft -- or you could just toss a fake small object into your slicer to extend the raft over both the real and the fake parts.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;FWIW, with a little care I've found a wide brim outperforms a raft for almost anything I print&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2191" LastActivityDate="2018-11-08T15:22:19.963" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7375" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7372" CreationDate="2018-11-08T16:07:14.747" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Ultimaker Cura you can select only one of the the build plate adhesion options skirt, brim or raft. You cannot select multiple options. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is no option available in Ultimaker Cura to increase the outline count of the raft bed adhesion structure. Basically the raft exists of a line support structure as can be seen in the figure below.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/33dg0.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/33dg0.png&quot; alt=&quot;Ultimaker raft support structure layout&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;The line around the lines should be considered &quot;the skirt&quot;, so if the nozzle is not properly primed (not sufficient molten filament available), you need to properly prime the nozzle prior to printing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To prime the nozzle, you need to add some extrusion of filament in your start G-code.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally, I like the style of Ultimaker where prior to printing, a puddle of filament is deposited priming the nozzle adequately. Basically you need to move to a position where you like to deposit filament:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt; G1 X10 Y10 Z2&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then you need to extrude material&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt; G1 F125&#xA; G1 E10&#xA; G1 Z3 E5&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After that you can even &lt;a href=&quot;/a/6356/5740&quot;&gt;wipe&lt;/a&gt; the nozzle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another option (that requires some copy/pasting from your side and would not be a recommended practice) that is possible is slicing the model with a skirt (with a sufficient distance to stay away from the raft position) instead of a raft and look at the generated G-code and copy the skirt deposition codes into the raft G-code file. You do need to take care of the proper length of the extruder when the skirt followed by the raft, so you need to use &lt;code&gt;G92 Exx.xx&lt;/code&gt; where xx.xx is the actual length of the filament start for the raft. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-11-09T10:24:11.370" LastActivityDate="2018-11-09T10:24:11.370" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7376" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-11-08T23:41:46.500" Score="1" ViewCount="2381" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rtG5C.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rtG5C.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/i1oaO.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/i1oaO.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm getting some slight pooling on the end of straight lines on my Ender-3&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this due to over extruding? Or some other issue?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13420" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2018-11-09T11:03:53.780" LastActivityDate="2018-11-09T13:31:28.770" Title="Is my printer over extruding?" Tags="|print-quality|extruder|extrusion|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7377" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7376" CreationDate="2018-11-09T03:35:22.883" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It looks like you some of your layers are printing with 100% infill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are noticing plastic still coming out at the end of lines then I think your pressure in the nozzle is high when it is getting to the end of those lines and that pressure is pushing out the extra plastic. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That could be because your over extruding, but if it is only happening on layers where you are printing with 100% infill it could also be because lines are too close together and so when your trying to push out plastic to fill all the gaps in the model the pressure is building up in the nozzle because the gaps in the infill are to small for the amount of plastic the printer is trying to push into them. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would see if it is happening on all your lines or is it worse on layers where the printer is printing 100% infill. Then maybe try adjusting the amount the printer is extruding and see how it changes the print. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Adjusting the speed could also make a difference. And some slicers have a setting to tell the printer to coast at the end of a line so the printer will stop extruding just before finishing a line as well. If you think the other setting are all tuned as good as you can get them then trying the coast setting might help for the model you are trying to print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1476" LastActivityDate="2018-11-09T03:35:22.883" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7378" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7376" CreationDate="2018-11-09T06:50:25.587" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The extruded filament is very inconsistent in deposited line width, so this is potentially over-extrusion. It is advised to check and calibrate the extruder, see &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6483/how-do-i-calibrate-the-extruder-of-my-printer&quot;&gt;&quot;How do I calibrate the extruder of my printer?&quot;&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It looks as though the positional accuracy is off (without knowing the actual print object; some lines are not touching), please check your belt tension.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-11-09T13:31:28.770" LastActivityDate="2018-11-09T13:31:28.770" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7379" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7380" CreationDate="2018-11-09T07:50:22.720" Score="4" ViewCount="4311" Body="&lt;p&gt;I’ve just received my first 3D printer, the Ender-3 and while&#xA;assembling the unit I noticed that the nozzle is slanted and&#xA;not vertical on its holder unit. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LqVa4.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LqVa4.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Ender-3 carriage with skew nozzle&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is this normal or do I have to try to make it vertical?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Did I receive a faulty nozzle unit? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13422" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2018-11-09T11:03:06.410" LastActivityDate="2018-11-09T12:05:47.267" Title="Creality Ender-3 slanted nozzle" Tags="|hotend|creality-ender-3|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7380" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7379" CreationDate="2018-11-09T08:47:59.237" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is not normal, the heat break (which is the cylindrical part between the nozzle block and the upper cooling part assembly is probably bent in your example) should be perpendicular to the 2020 guide beam (X-axis) so that the nozzle exit is exactly perpendicular to the (heated) platform.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You either received a faulty heat break, or too much force is exerted during assembly. You should contact the seller.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could disassemble (after you contacted the seller) to see if the heat break is bent or something else is incorrect. Once you have the heat break out, you can measure the dimensions and order a replacement locally (for speed). It is advisable to have some heat breaks, nozzles, and even a heater block, heater cartridges and thermistors available as spares, these are pretty cheap to obtain through the regular Chinese vendor sites or auction sites.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the heat break is bent, bending it back is not advised as this heat break easily tears open as it usually consists of thin walls.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-11-09T11:12:51.330" LastActivityDate="2018-11-09T11:12:51.330" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7382" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7383" CreationDate="2018-11-09T14:48:22.973" Score="3" ViewCount="249" Body="&lt;p&gt;What are the most common 3D printing file formats, and which one is more effective or used more than others?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13102" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-11-12T07:18:39.213" LastActivityDate="2020-02-27T05:39:28.533" Title="What are the most common 3D printing file formats?" Tags="|print-quality|file-formats|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7383" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7382" CreationDate="2018-11-09T15:13:47.757" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/STL_(file_format)&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;STL&lt;/a&gt; is the standard for pretty much everything out there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: This is for models to be sliced and printed. Gcode is what would actually be executed, after slicing, to create the print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4922" LastEditorUserId="4922" LastEditDate="2018-11-12T14:39:44.400" LastActivityDate="2018-11-12T14:39:44.400" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7384" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7382" CreationDate="2018-11-09T15:55:02.287" Score="7" Body="&lt;h1&gt;3D-Model Exchange Files&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;https://all3dp.com/3d-file-format-3d-files-3d-printer-3d-cad-vrml-stl-obj/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;most common file formats&lt;/a&gt; to exchange models for 3D printing are STL, OBJ, FBX, COLLADA, 3DS, IGES, STEP, and VRML/X3D.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of these, STL, OBJ, AMF, and 3MF are the most popular formats according to &lt;a href=&quot;https://all3dp.com/3d-printing-file-formats/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;All3DP&lt;/a&gt;. Pointing out which is the best is a subjective interpretation and not fit for SE sites. However, for many of the model sharing sites, like e.g. Thingiverse.com, many people share the STL file format.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;STL file format is short for “stereolithography” and is a 3D rendering that is containing a single color.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;OBJ file format, this format stores information about your 3D model. It encodes surface geometry of your 3D model and is also able to store color and even texture information.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;AMF file format stands for Additive Manufacturing File Format, this is a relative new format for 3D printing based on an XML open standard. Like OBJ it can store color information. When compressed, the size can be reduced significantly to about half the size of STL files.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;3MF file format stands for 3D Manufacturing Format. It is also a relatively new file format that aims to be a new standard for additive manufacturing. According to the 3MF consortium, it allows higher inter-operability between 3D modeling software and other applications, services, platforms, and printers.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Actual Printing Files&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the end, all these formats store the models of your products which eventually need to be &lt;em&gt;transformed into 3D printer understandable instructions&lt;/em&gt;. These instructions are called &lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/wiki/G-code&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;G-code commands&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lately I also noted that Ultimaker Cura stores sliced models in GZ file format for my Ultimaker 3 Extended, which is a compressed archive from the GZIP compression utility containing the actual G-code file.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:29:41.667" LastActivityDate="2018-11-12T13:33:01.523" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7385" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-11-09T20:48:52.980" Score="3" ViewCount="1218" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to print a piece of fruit modeled in Blender. It is an STL file. &#xA;Please note that I am an absolute beginner at 3D printing models. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What do these red zones mean? What is wrong about the mesh in each case?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GGEQe.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GGEQe.png&quot; alt=&quot;The fruit has some low-poly seeds. These used to be a particle system but I then changed them into individual objects.&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The fruit has some low-poly seeds. These used to be a particle system but I then changed them into individual objects.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cmOfL.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cmOfL.png&quot; alt=&quot;These would be the base of the fruit. Why is it erroneous?&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This view shows the base of the fruit, why is it colored red?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13431" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2020-07-13T11:27:10.880" LastActivityDate="2020-07-13T12:03:18.843" Title="Problems with STL model in Ultimaker Cura" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|3d-models|blender|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7386" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="715" CreationDate="2018-11-10T06:43:23.737" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can do this using MATLAB, or possibly Octave (the open-source version of MATLAB). I'm doing this right now to print a globe with exaggerated topography and bathymetry. MATLAB has tons of tools for importing data. I'm sure you can import the Lake Michigan bathymetry data, though you may have to hunt for an importing script on the MATLAB exchange. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As long as you can get your data imported as a 2D matrix of X, Y and Z values, you can use the &lt;code&gt;surf2stl()&lt;/code&gt; function by Bill McDonald, available here: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.mathworks.com/matlabcentral/fileexchange/4512-surf2stl&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.mathworks.com/matlabcentral/fileexchange/4512-surf2stl&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This creates an STL you can use. Note that it's just a surface, so you'll need to give it depth some other way so your printed object isn't paper-thin. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13435" LastActivityDate="2018-11-10T06:43:23.737" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7387" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7385" CreationDate="2018-11-10T07:16:07.157" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;3D printers cannot print in the air without a prior layer or a support structure supporting the new printed layer. For the picture showing the bottom of the fruit, the red area is the calculated area that requires support for printing, so please enable that in the slicer application.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the top picture please post a detail or a zoomed in part. It is currently difficult to see what is the matter. It looks as though the STL model is incorrect and Ultimaker Cura thinks that the seeds are upside down, hence the red coloring also. This means that you need to fix the normals of the faces in the STL model. Please look into &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/2785/5740&quot;&gt;this answer&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/3298/5740&quot;&gt;this answer&lt;/a&gt; for some hints.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-07-13T12:03:18.843" LastActivityDate="2020-07-13T12:03:18.843" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7388" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-11-10T12:35:06.103" Score="4" ViewCount="12376" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had a couple of recent nozzle/bed crashes, so I now frequently do a manual bed levelling. I do these while the bed is heated to allow for expansion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Today I found, after levelling, a subsequent print could vary from having too much clearance (paper moves very freely) to less than no clearance (which left deep grooves in the bed as per the photo).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8sAZk.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Photo of bed&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8sAZk.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Photo of bed&quot; title=&quot;Photo of bed&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are the possible causes? Is it just a dodgy Z-limit switch or something else? What solutions are available and at what cost? Obviously an ABL seems essential now, but requires a lot of hardware and setup.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It has just happened again so here are some more details.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Printing PLA this time:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Preheated bed.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Levelled bed all over and got a very good raft.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Print failed later so the print was aborted.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Restarted the same print job.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Nozzle gouged out a uniform depth trench around print perimeter.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The uniform depth of the gouge indicates a problem related to Z-axis only as the bed remains flat and level, but the height is off. That is to say, the bed is flat and level before and after this occurs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please note: I have done over 100 successful prints, prior to this issue, so I do have some knowledge about levelling the bed. I am interested in what could cause such a large variation. Initially I thought it was temperature as I switched to ABS at the time, but it now varies from one print to the next.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The machine is a month old and rock solid. The Z-axis is the slowest moving axis, controlled by the limit switch only, hence my suspecting that is the cause.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I purchased a couple of spare Ender 3's and will update various parts in turn to see what the cause is. The metal trigger on my Z-limit switch seems a little floppy sideways, but I am also starting to suspect the bed springs have lost their springiness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have the removal bed version and also a borosilicate glass bed. The glass is perfectly flat and the standard removable is dipped ever so slightly in the middle, but the difference is huge when it goes wrong. As you can see from the photo the trench it digs is quite uniform depth. That's why I keep coming back to the Z-limit switch. I have a spare switch now so will try that next.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13402" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-10-15T06:10:52.040" LastActivityDate="2022-10-31T14:46:35.573" Title="Ender 3 Z-limit now unreliable - possible causes and solutions?" Tags="|z-axis|bed-leveling|creality-ender-3|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="12" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7389" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2018-11-10T13:32:41.387" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2018-11-10T13:32:41.387" LastActivityDate="2018-11-10T13:32:41.387" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7390" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2018-11-10T13:32:41.387" Score="0" Body="For use with printers which utilize UV light to set/cure liquid material. " OwnerUserId="11242" LastEditorUserId="11242" LastEditDate="2018-11-10T14:58:12.530" LastActivityDate="2018-11-10T14:58:12.530" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7391" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2018-11-10T13:37:44.750" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2018-11-10T13:37:44.750" LastActivityDate="2018-11-10T13:37:44.750" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7392" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2018-11-10T13:37:44.750" Score="0" Body="A method of quick fabrication which produces a scale model of a part or assembly using CAD software, then printing in 3D." OwnerUserId="11242" LastEditorUserId="11242" LastEditDate="2018-11-10T14:58:09.023" LastActivityDate="2018-11-10T14:58:09.023" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7393" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7394" CreationDate="2018-11-10T21:29:03.850" Score="5" ViewCount="1294" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been have a problem printing ABS with Cura on an Ender 3. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am getting good bed adhesion on the raft, but the object on top of the raft easily curls off it. See photo below. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Settings:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bed 110 &amp;deg;C&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Nozzle 260 &amp;deg;C&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fan 0 % speed&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do you control how strongly the raft adheres to the object in Cura?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/41oOu.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Curling up from raft&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13402" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-11-12T08:26:50.593" LastActivityDate="2018-11-13T12:34:00.387" Title="Getting a Cura Raft to stick to the object more firmly (for ABS)" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|adhesion|creality-ender-3|rafts|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7394" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7393" CreationDate="2018-11-10T21:43:44.610" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should reduce the air gap option called &quot;Raft Air Gap&quot;. Printing ABS optimally requires an enclosure of the printer, wind and draft cause temperature changes which could lead to layer separation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-11-13T12:34:00.387" LastActivityDate="2018-11-13T12:34:00.387" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7395" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7399" CreationDate="2018-11-10T22:23:45.753" Score="4" ViewCount="50159" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have just installed the BLTouch on my Ender 3 running Marlin 1.1.9 and I want to set it up so the probing does the 9 points in a perimeter that uses most of the bed surface area. At the moment the probe just covers a small area.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mioOj.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mioOj.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I read that to sort it out you have to change the section &quot; // Set the boundaries for probing (where the probe can reach).&quot; but I can't figure out what to set it as, my current settings are as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt; #define LEFT_PROBE_BED_POSITION 30&#xA; #define RIGHT_PROBE_BED_POSITION (X_BED_SIZE - 120)&#xA; #define FRONT_PROBE_BED_POSITION 30&#xA; #define BACK_PROBE_BED_POSITION (Y_BED_SIZE - 120)&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I try to set it so something like:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;  #define LEFT_PROBE_BED_POSITION 30&#xA;  #define RIGHT_PROBE_BED_POSITION (X_BED_SIZE - 35)&#xA;  #define FRONT_PROBE_BED_POSITION 30&#xA;  #define BACK_PROBE_BED_POSITION (Y_BED_SIZE - 35)&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I get an error reading :&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;  RIGHT PROBE_BED POSITION is outside the probe region.&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any help you can give me on what I am doing wrong will be greatly appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The probe offset from the extruder are as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#define X_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER -41  // X offset: -left  +right  [of &#xA;the nozzle]&#xA;#define Y_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER -5  // Y offset: -front +behind [the &#xA;nozzle]&#xA;#define Z_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER -1  // Z offset: -below +above  [the &#xA;nozzle]&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For completeness, this is the G-code that I am using: &lt;a href=&quot;https://drive.google.com/file/d/12aK-_x0XVxDIVXcBSce7hgw5y1jSQLXl/view&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;CE3_square.gcode&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13327" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-11-19T22:37:54.770" LastActivityDate="2021-01-17T23:28:56.197" Title="How to set the boundaries for BLTouch probing" Tags="|bed-leveling|creality-ender-3|bltouch|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7397" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7398" CreationDate="2018-11-11T01:56:33.287" Score="2" ViewCount="77" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can I use a 2D photo to get a 3D printing model that gives a good result?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13102" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-11-11T03:48:28.243" LastActivityDate="2018-11-11T03:48:28.243" Title="Can I use a 2D photo to get a 3D printing model?" Tags="|3d-models|graphics|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2018-11-13T12:43:21.380" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7398" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7397" CreationDate="2018-11-11T02:11:39.557" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;With just 1 2D photo, you can never get a 100% accurate 3D object. That is because you don't really know about the hidden parts.  Think of a photo of a smiling mischievous child that is facing you, and you can't see that they are holding a sling shot behind their back.    However, with multiple 2D photos, one can reconstruct a 3D object, provided all the parts are seen.  This is called photogrammetry.  You can search wikipedia and youtube for in-depth discussion about this.  It is an entire science.  There are applications that do this for you, but I can't recall the details right now.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9158" LastActivityDate="2018-11-11T02:11:39.557" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7399" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7395" CreationDate="2018-11-11T13:31:31.853" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;As explained in &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/6874&quot;&gt;this answer&lt;/a&gt; it is &lt;em&gt;you&lt;/em&gt; that needs to calculate where the head (read sensor) is supposed to go depending on the amount of space you have left on the carriage shafts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As can be seen from your configuration, your sensor is located on the left front (when facing the machine) at 41 mm left from the nozzle you are requesting the sensor to travel to a position that is outside the bed (35 mm), so you should at least subtract 41 mm from your X bed size.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you have not posted a bed size, an assumed X bed size of 220 mm would mean that the maximum probing distance for X (i.e. &lt;code&gt;RIGHT_PROBE_BED_POSITION&lt;/code&gt;) of 220 - 41 = 179 mm&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In your case -41 mm would take it to the edge, so 30 mm extra would make it symmetrical:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#define LEFT_PROBE_BED_POSITION 30&#xA;#define RIGHT_PROBE_BED_POSITION (X_BED_SIZE - 41 - 30)&#xA;#define FRONT_PROBE_BED_POSITION 30&#xA;#define BACK_PROBE_BED_POSITION (Y_BED_SIZE - 5 - 30)&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Furthermore, it is way more convenient to set the Z distance between the probe and the nozzle using &lt;code&gt;M851 Zxx.xx&lt;/code&gt; (where xx.xx denotes the offset as a negative value) than setting it with &lt;code&gt;Z_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER&lt;/code&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-01-17T23:28:56.197" LastActivityDate="2021-01-17T23:28:56.197" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7400" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3742" CreationDate="2018-11-11T21:15:04.123" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://slic3r.org/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Slic3r&lt;/a&gt; will calculate the weight after you have exported the G-Code.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Normally, you'll only see the &quot;Info&quot; box. But after saving as G-Code, there's a &quot;Sliced Info&quot; which mentions the weight according to the settings you made (filament type and infill).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's how it looks like:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cnZRE.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cnZRE.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1570" LastActivityDate="2018-11-11T21:15:04.123" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7405" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7406" CreationDate="2018-11-12T20:50:43.540" Score="1" ViewCount="490" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am attempting to print an axial fan blade, and due to the size requirements, I have to angle it on its side (despite only being 7.44 inches in diameter...). I am using an Ultimaker 3, which I thought was able to print 215mm (or 8.46 inches). This leads me to two questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Question 1:&lt;/strong&gt; If my diameter is only 7.44 inches, &lt;strong&gt;why am I unable to lay the fan blade flat&lt;/strong&gt; (see below - notice the dimensions are within the bounds)? &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iJoFn.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iJoFn.png&quot; alt=&quot;Fan blade cannot be laid flat&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Question 2:&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;strong&gt;What is so wrong with the surfaces in red that Cura cannot print, even with supports?&lt;/strong&gt; I am using PVA as a support material, yet there is something wrong with my model in Cura. I checked the X-ray view and nothing seemed amiss. &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Tt2gU.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Tt2gU.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12525" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-11-15T07:53:37.243" LastActivityDate="2018-11-15T07:53:37.243" Title="Ultimaker Cura problems with build platform size and overhang support" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|support-structures|build-plate|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7406" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7405" CreationDate="2018-11-12T21:53:42.997" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ultimaker Cura print bed size sizes (shrinks) when you enable skirt, brim or raft build adhesion options. Try to print without build plate adhesion option if you want to push printing to the limits of the build plate. Furthermore, you mention the use of PVA, using 2 cores, the priming print tower also needs space to be printed, this can be also limiting your build plate space. Note that you can define where to print the tower, you could try locating it in a corner where the fan does not reach.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From your screenshot with the fan flat it appears that you have selected dual extrusion. Note that the bed size depends on the amount of cores you use, from Ultimaker:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Left or right nozzle: &lt;br&gt;215 x 215 x 300 mm &lt;br&gt;(8.5 x 8.5 x 11.8 inches)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Dual extrusion: &lt;br&gt;197 x 215 x 300 mm &lt;br&gt;(7.8 x 8.5 x 11.8 inches)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As an example I have made a 7.44&quot; cylinder of 2&quot; height and put it onto the UM3E build plate to show the differences when you use dual extrusion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This image shows the cylinder when printed with a single core:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6p3u6.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6p3u6.png&quot; alt=&quot;Single core build platform size&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This image shows the same cylinder, but now with enabled &quot;Extruder 2&quot; as the &quot;Support Extruder&quot; option:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/axBqq.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/axBqq.png&quot; alt=&quot;Dual core build platform size&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having an Ultimaker 3E myself, &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;printing PVA might not be very good choice as you need to print a lot of support material when printing upright&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;. PVA cooks easily even in the B core, it also needs to be very dry, PVA takes up moisture very fast and becomes useless after that. At work we have much better experience with break-away support material.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Another consideration why you should not print this upright&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; is the orientation of the layers. It is generally known that the layer to layer bonding is less strong that the material itself, it at least provides a lot of notches from which cracks can initiate and grow. This means that if you want to print this, you should lay it flat, this way the centrifugal force is in line with the layer deposition direction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;With the correct layer height (read thin layers), you should be able to print this flat without support. I have printed similar structures like turbo turbine wheels with similar overhangs without support.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-11-15T07:16:13.153" LastActivityDate="2018-11-15T07:16:13.153" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7407" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4330" CreationDate="2018-11-12T22:45:06.227" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I highly recommend the Bosch Rexroth series of aluminum hardware.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also recommend RS components as a distributor for this material. They have local warehouses, and provide very fast shipping.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/tubing-struts/4667219/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Here&lt;/a&gt; is the part you are looking for on their UK GB website.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://uk.rs-online.com/web/c/?sra=oss&amp;amp;r=t&amp;amp;searchTerm=bosch%20rexroth&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Here&lt;/a&gt; is an assortment of compatible hardware.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By the way, RS components has a Ukraine website, where you may be able to order from a Ukraine warehouse for faster/cheaper shipping.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13462" LastActivityDate="2018-11-12T22:45:06.227" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7408" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4103" CreationDate="2018-11-12T22:57:15.567" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I first started printing with the anet A8, I also had trash first layers.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I tried (almost) everything:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Leveling the bed maniacally several times (all the screws in the&#xA;frame need to be very tight) &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Varying bed temperature and nozzle&#xA;temperature at all possible combinations. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Adding blue masking tape&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Nothing would significantly improve my first layer, except for &lt;strong&gt;HAIRSPRAY&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After discovering this secret, I went back and un-varied everything. I tried with and without tape, at high and low temperatures. With-out the hairspray it never stuck well. With the hairspray it stuck perfectly every time. A small spray is sufficient.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After you are done making a mess, use nail polish remover ( acetone ) to properly clean everything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are doubting your G-code, get a pre-generated one for the A8. The ones that came on the SD card should print very well, nothing like the image you showed of the 1st layer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13462" LastActivityDate="2018-11-12T22:57:15.567" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7409" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5625" CreationDate="2018-11-13T01:00:32.900" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an Anet A6 and once you get your settings dialled in, bed level accurate and belt tensioner correct you can do 0.05&amp;nbsp;mm very well (although I for some reason went with 0.06&amp;nbsp;mm and never tried the extra 0.01&amp;nbsp;mm lower but it shouldn't have an issue). Note: I did this using all the stock parts so 0.4&amp;nbsp;mm brass nozzle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I highly recommend you print and install a front Y axis frame brace and a Y axis belt tensioning mod as well as an X axis belt tensioner. It will allow you to print at these layer heights much more accurately if you can adjust the tension correctly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The kit out of the box makes it almost impossible to get good/correct tension on the belts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13463" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-11-13T02:08:21.400" LastActivityDate="2018-11-13T02:08:21.400" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7410" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7411" CreationDate="2018-11-13T21:34:48.807" Score="0" ViewCount="64" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to calibrate my printer for my new BLTouch (Ender 3 using Marlins 1.1.9), every time I adjust the values in the configuration.h and send it to the printer I end up having to wait for the nozzle and the bed to heat up, it also wastes plastic. &#xA;Is there a way to take out the values in the code that make the extruder turn without causing any damage.&#xA;the slicer that I am using is Cura and the print that I want to trace is &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2280529/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this calibration crosshair.&lt;/a&gt; Any help will be greatly appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13327" LastActivityDate="2018-11-13T21:56:06.523" Title="How To Trace The Line Of A Print With The Nozzle (With No Plastic Printed)" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|calibration|bltouch|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7411" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7410" CreationDate="2018-11-13T21:56:06.523" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sure. Comment out your E values and the temp set/wait lines:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;code&gt;...&#xA;M109 S245&#xA;M190 S120&#xA;...&#xA;G1 X123.113 Y95.644 E12.81357  F250&#xA;G1 X125.613 Y94.214 E13.06364 ; skirt&#xA;G1 X128.409 Y93.523 E13.31370 ; skirt&#xA;G1 X131.287 Y93.624 E13.56377 ; skirt&#xA;G1 X133.471 Y94.259 E13.76129     F250 &#xA;G1 X133.771 Y94.384 E13.78949 ; skirt&#xA;...&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Becomes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;code&gt;...&#xA;;M109 S245&#xA;;M190 S120&#xA;...&#xA;G1 X123.113 Y95.644 F250 ; E12.81357 &#xA;G1 X125.613 Y94.214 ; E13.06364 ; skirt&#xA;G1 X128.409 Y93.523 ; E13.31370 ; skirt&#xA;G1 X131.287 Y93.624 ; E13.56377 ; skirt&#xA;G1 X133.471 Y94.259 ; E13.76129     F250 &#xA;G1 X133.771 Y94.384 ; E13.78949 ; skirt&#xA;...&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now the printer won't wait for any temperatures, and won't dispense any material.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4922" LastActivityDate="2018-11-13T21:56:06.523" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7412" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7413" CreationDate="2018-11-14T01:37:58.177" Score="2" ViewCount="6314" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I adjust the probe offset to get the proper layer height and adhesion, one side is set right but the other doesn't work. If I decrease the probe offset (say -1.100 to -1.050) the right side seems to print better; if I increase the probe offset (-1.050 to -1.125) the left side will adhere to the plate properly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Before I added the BLTouch and upgraded the firmware to Marlin 1.1.9 I was able to print a perimeter square (with a little manual adjustment).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My Printer is the Ender 3 and I am using a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.amazon.co.uk/Comgrow-Glass-Creality-Printer-Ender-3/dp/B07DSC9TJQ&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;glass bed&lt;/a&gt; and the model is this &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2280529/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;centre crosshair&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xVVfi.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xVVfi.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pBFny.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pBFny.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Y0usO.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Y0usO.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JECOP.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JECOP.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13327" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-11-14T15:38:31.303" LastActivityDate="2018-11-14T19:03:29.360" Title="Automatic leveling probe offset; adjusting for one side ruins the other" Tags="|bed-leveling|creality-ender-3|bltouch|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7413" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7412" CreationDate="2018-11-14T07:51:34.380" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have had exactly the same experiences as you did with a inductive sensor on a Prusa i3 clone. It looks as though the bed leveling is not executed, or the level/mesh tilted. Please do note that automatic bed leveling is &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;not magic&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;, you still need to provide a &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;build platform as level (and flat) as possible&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;. A slate of glass is a good build platform surface as the glass production process ensures that the glass is very flat and easy to level.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I did to solve the problem is that I re-leveled the bed and send the &lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#M420:_Leveling_On.2FOff.2FFade_.28Marlin.29&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;code&gt;M420 S1&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/a&gt; command over USB to the printer to enable bed leveling as I was under the impression that it did not use the grid obtained with &lt;code&gt;G29&lt;/code&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On my CoreXY I also use a touch sensor (3DTouch, which is a BLTouch clone) like you do, even with that sensor I sometimes see that the automatic level is uneven (one side of the skirt has very thin/see through deposition, while the other side appears normal), this is most probably caused by the sensor accuracy (or an obstruction under the probe needle). There is a way to increase the probing accuracy by using double probing where the second probe is advancing slower to the build platform as can be seen in the Marlin Configuration.h file:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;// Feedrate (mm/m) for the first approach when double-probing (MULTIPLE_PROBING == 2)&#xA;#define Z_PROBE_SPEED_FAST HOMING_FEEDRATE_Z&#xA;&#xA;// Feedrate (mm/m) for the &quot;accurate&quot; probe of each point&#xA;#define Z_PROBE_SPEED_SLOW (Z_PROBE_SPEED_FAST / 2)&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For double probing you require to set:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;// The number of probes to perform at each point.&#xA;//   Set to 2 for a fast/slow probe, using the second probe result.&#xA;//   Set to 3 or more for slow probes, averaging the results.&#xA;#define MULTIPLE_PROBING 2&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Side note:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;From an earlier posting it appears that you are using the &lt;code&gt;#define Z_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER&lt;/code&gt; in the configuration file to set the offset. It is much more convenient to set that through the &lt;a href=&quot;http://marlinfw.org/docs/features/lcd_menu.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;LCD menu&lt;/a&gt; (&lt;code&gt;Bed Leveling&lt;/code&gt; -&gt; &lt;code&gt;Z Probe Offset: -–-&lt;/code&gt;) or send  the &lt;code&gt;M851 Zx.xx&lt;/code&gt; directly over USB or load through a .gcode file from SD card to prevent numerous flashing the firmware with alternative parameters. Make sure that you enable:&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#define EEPROM_SETTINGS // Enable for M500 and M501 commands&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;in the Configuration.h file and execute &lt;code&gt;M500&lt;/code&gt; to store the new setting set by &lt;code&gt;M851&lt;/code&gt;.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-11-14T18:49:00.427" LastActivityDate="2018-11-14T18:49:00.427" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7416" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1544" CreationDate="2018-11-14T09:07:10.680" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Consider printing in other planes - this model would be very suited to be printed at around a 45° angle. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will need support beneath it, but all visible surfaces should exhibit good quality as well as being more robust than when printed upright due to layer adhesion as pointed out by other answers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13171" LastActivityDate="2018-11-14T09:07:10.680" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7417" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7419" CreationDate="2018-11-14T15:40:07.400" Score="7" ViewCount="4606" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am trying to add the line&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;G4 P4000 G1 F4000 E-50&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;to pause and retract the print in order for the printed line to dry (printing in mid air vertically). Does the above code work or should i skip lines or does it not matter at all?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;G4 P4000&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  G1 F4000 E-50&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would the following line do the exact same thing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;G4 P5000 E-50&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12999" LastEditorUserId="12999" LastEditDate="2018-11-16T16:22:42.177" LastActivityDate="2018-12-13T06:59:12.927" Title="Is G-code read line by line?" Tags="|g-code|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7418" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7417" CreationDate="2018-11-14T16:03:53.873" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;This needs to be on two lines like in your second example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;G4 P4000&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  G1 F4000 E-50&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See the RepRap Gcode Wiki for more info. &lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/wiki/G-code&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://reprap.org/wiki/G-code&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: if you actually want to retract and THEN pause, reverse it:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;G1 F4000 E-50&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  G4 P4000&lt;br&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4922" LastEditorUserId="4922" LastEditDate="2018-11-15T14:35:48.700" LastActivityDate="2018-11-15T14:35:48.700" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7419" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7417" CreationDate="2018-11-14T16:07:03.010" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, G-code is read line by line. G-code is a numerical control programming language. It basically instructs the machine sequentially line by line to do a specific task. The printer than executes the lines one by one until it reaches the end.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you instruct the printer to wait (&lt;code&gt;G4&lt;/code&gt; dwell), it will do the wait/dwell first and than will execute the next command to retract the filament. As such, your examples will not work if you want to retract the filament during the pause, you reversed the process if you want to achieve that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To add a pause (simple) for e.g. filament changing, you should instruct the head to go to a certain position, extract the filament, and now insert the pause/dwell command. Give yourself enough time to insert and prime the nozzle and go back to the last location to continue printing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could insert something like (e.g. in between layer change, before &lt;code&gt;G1 Zx.xx&lt;/code&gt;):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;...&#xA;G1 X0 Y0 F2000 ; Relocate the print head&#xA;G1 F4000 E-50 ; Retract filament&#xA;G4 P40000 ; Wait for 40 seconds&#xA;G92 E50 ; The new filament should continue at this value&#xA;...&#xA;G1 Zx.xx&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on what happens after &lt;code&gt;G1 Zx.xx&lt;/code&gt;, you may need to set the head back to the location prior to where it was before &lt;code&gt;G1 X0 Y0 F2000&lt;/code&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do note that there are pausing scripts/plugins available for e.g. Ultimaker Cura, and there is also a filament changing command &lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#M600:_Filament_change_pause&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;code&gt;M600&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/a&gt; that can be enabled for certain firmware (if this is your ultimate goal).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using a post processing plugin of Ultimaker Cura, a pausing script looks like:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&#xA;...&#xA;G0 X137.692 Y105&#xA;;TIME_ELAPSED:707.873599&#xA;;TYPE:CUSTOM;added code by post processing&#xA;;script: PauseAtHeight.py&#xA;;current z: 5&#xA;;current height: 5.0&#xA;M83&#xA;G1 F300 Z6&#xA;G1 F9000 X190 Y190&#xA;G1 F300 Z15&#xA;M104 S0; standby temperature&#xA;M0;Do the actual pause&#xA;M109 S200; resume temperature&#xA;G1 F300 Z6&#xA;G1 F9000 X133.423 Y105&#xA;G1 F9000&#xA;M82&#xA;G92 E911.50045&#xA;;LAYER:24&#xA;G0 X137.692 Y105 Z5&#xA;...&#xA;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that &lt;code&gt;G0&lt;/code&gt; and &lt;code&gt;G1&lt;/code&gt; are &lt;em&gt;&quot;move to&quot;&lt;/em&gt; location instructions (albeit through a different way, fast move and linear move respectively). If you look closely, you see that after the pause, the printer returns to the X-Y position where it left prior to the pause (&lt;code&gt;X137.692 Y105&lt;/code&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Side note:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Some firmware flavors allow &lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#Buffering&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;buffering&lt;/a&gt;, but each statement is executed sequentially.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-12-13T06:59:12.927" LastActivityDate="2018-12-13T06:59:12.927" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7422" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1544" CreationDate="2018-11-14T17:26:51.227" Score="1" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Support structure &amp;amp; Orientation&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Carefully considering this model, It would be wise to print this on the back-plane with support and then post-process the print to prevent the walls separating from the back when dropped. By activating support, the proposed orientation is however quite possible. To reduce the chance to destroy the print, one has to choose &lt;a href=&quot;https://ultimaker.com/en/blog/52274-which-3d-printing-supports-to-use-pla-pva-or-breakaway&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;the right support material&lt;/a&gt; and geometry. In this case, a &lt;strong&gt;soluble support&lt;/strong&gt; (PVA) would be best, but choosing a proper support structure like &lt;strong&gt;tree support&lt;/strong&gt; originating from an area in front of the case reaching in, for example, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.prusaprinters.org/how-to-create-custom-overhang-supports-in-meshmixer/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;generated with Meshmixer&lt;/a&gt; is also a very good solution. The orientation that is shown by OP actually has a very nice ability to hold onto the phone from the C-shaped cross-section. However, again this does demand some &lt;strong&gt;post-processing&lt;/strong&gt; to strengthen the inter-layer bonding, preventing the case to split into an &amp;quot;upper&amp;quot; and &amp;quot;lower&amp;quot; section when dropped.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Post processing&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Post-processing could take the shape of baking the part in the oven for about an hour to strengthen the inter-layer bonding. For PLA 90 to 100 °C in the oven is common, while ABS is a little higher.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;ABS would allow a quick acetone vapor smoothing, which melts the outer layer lines together smoothly and as a result increases the shell stability a little - you have to let it outside to let the soaked in vapor fully evaporate afterward though and you might lose smaller details.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:29:41.667" LastActivityDate="2019-05-04T19:17:49.467" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7423" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7412" CreationDate="2018-11-14T19:03:29.360" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;From the looks of your test print, this is unlikely all or only due to levelling unless the glass plate is abnormally uneven. You may have to check your extrusion (speed, temp, feed) parameters and/or adhesion (clean with aceton and/or prepare with hairspray or glue stck)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13480" LastActivityDate="2018-11-14T19:03:29.360" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7424" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-11-14T21:46:27.457" Score="7" ViewCount="4481" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is it a good idea or do I need to calibrate my E steps after I switch to a new filament due to the different types I use (to make my prints accurate)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;E.g. calibrate when switching from PLA to ABS/PETG? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13482" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-11-14T22:51:56.073" LastActivityDate="2023-09-03T22:55:43.580" Title="Calibrating E steps for new filament" Tags="|filament|calibration|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7425" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-11-14T22:07:09.580" Score="5" ViewCount="2369" Body="&lt;p&gt;I need help resolving some conflicting logic between the nozzle width and shell thickness--parameters in Cura 16.021--and the physical deposited line width (width on x-y plane).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;DEFINITIONS&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For clarity, let me define a few terms I'm using:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Nozzle size - nominal diameter of the nozzle / Cura parameter&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Nozzle diameter - true diameter of the nozzle&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Extrusion diameter - diameter of circular cross-section extrusion upon leaving the nozzle&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Deposited line width - width of the rectilinear layer deposited on the build surface &lt;strong&gt;in the x-y plane&lt;/strong&gt; (not the z-layer height).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Shell thickness - Cura parameter for part wall thickness &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cura - Cura version 16.021&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XBhmE.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XBhmE.png&quot; alt=&quot;Extrusion Diagram&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;PROBLEM 1&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Physics suggests that for regular continuous flow out of the nozzle the extrusion diameter (cylindrical material extrusion) would be slightly larger than the nozzle diameter, and the deposited line width (rectangular prismatic extrusion) on the x-y plane should be even wider than the extrusion diameter.  I'm assuming the deposited line width is equal to the shell thickness as set in Cura.  However, I am finding conflicting advice as to whether one should set the shell thickness slightly greater than or slightly less than the nozzle diameter.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In &lt;a href=&quot;https://community.ultimaker.com/topic/3297-what-does-it-do-when-i-change-the-nozzle-diameter-in-cura/?do=findComment&amp;amp;comment=43605&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this post&lt;/a&gt; on the Ultimaker forum, the moderator seems to suggest that the nozzle size and deposited line width are one and the same.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/1410/how-does-the-sizes-of-nozzle-diameter-and-the-z-axis-layer-resolution-work&quot;&gt;this post&lt;/a&gt; on StackExchange, the discussion seems to agree with my understanding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PROBLEM 2&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A &lt;a href=&quot;https://mattshub.com/2017/04/19/extruder-calibration/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;commonly referenced procedure&lt;/a&gt; for calibrating extrusion suggests printing a 25mm cube with an open top and bottom.  My understanding is that by printing four walls of a single shell thickness, we should correct the extrusion rate to achieve a deposited line width equal to nozzle diameter (Cura requires the shell thickness to be a multiple of nozzle diameter) .  The problem I have with this is, as stated above, I don't understand a physical basis for targeting nozzle size = shell thickness (deposited line width).  I'd expect to calibrate the extrusion to something slightly wider than the nozzle diameter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/E04EG.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/E04EG.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My printing experience seems to confirm my intuition.  If I reduce extrusion rate to achieve shell thickness = nozzle diameter my prints appear visually under-extruded with poor layer adhesion.  Calibrating to about 110% of the nozzle size looks about right.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PROBLEM 3&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XsusB.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XsusB.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although Cura constrains shell thickness to be a multiple of nozzle size, it will not slice thin shapes on the x-y plane equal to nozzle size, they need to be slightly wider.  I have verified this multiple times by designing a part in SolidWorks with a 0.4mm wall, exporting it to Cura as an STL, and previewing the slices (using a 0.4 mm nozzle size).  If I increase the wall thickness in the model to 0.41mm, Cura will slice the wall.  This seems to suggest to me that Cura does account for a deposited line width &gt; nozzle diameter.  It calls to question whether the shell thickness is actually a physical dimension for the 3D print or just a parameter for the slicer engine.  I have taken it to mean the number of passes around the perimeter in units of nozzle size, similar to other slicers that ask for a shell count.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks in advance to anyone who has put in the time to read this post and kindly share some knowledge.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT 1: My interchanging of terms &quot;width&quot; and &quot;thickness&quot; made it sound like I'm referring to z-layer height.  Also, Trish pointed out that &quot;line width&quot; is the better term rather than &quot;layer width&quot; so I have updated this.  My post is only concerned with the deposited layer width in the x-y plane--&quot;line width&quot;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13481" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2018-11-16T11:23:02.213" LastActivityDate="2018-11-16T11:23:02.213" Title="Help to reconcile nozzle diameter, deposited line width, and wall thickness in Cura" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|slicing|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7426" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7424" CreationDate="2018-11-14T22:43:04.763" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;No that will not be necessary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, you could use calipers to measure the diameter of the filaments (e.g. at 5 positions over a few meters) and calculate the mean diameter, if there is a significant difference between the new and the currently used filament you could change the diameter in the slicer (or the flow modifier), you do not need to calibrate the steps per millimeter every time you change filament. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You only need to calibrate the steps per millimeter if you change something in the extruder hardware setup, e.g. different extruder, different stepper driver, a new gear, etc. As long as the hardware is not changed a calibrated extruder setup will move a certain amount of filament regardless of the diameter variation (per rotation of the extruder gear an amount of &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$2 \times \pi \times (gear\ radius)$&lt;/span&gt; mm of filament.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-11-15T11:04:46.703" LastActivityDate="2018-11-15T11:04:46.703" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7428" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7424" CreationDate="2018-11-15T10:03:32.857" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;No,&lt;/strong&gt; it is not a good idea to recalibrate the machine for each filament. Instead, use a different profile and adjust the flow multiplier to adjust to different polymers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;why&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Steps/mm is a mechanical setting that is dependent &lt;strong&gt;only on the extruder gear&lt;/strong&gt;. The diameter of the filament is independent of this: one rotation of the extruder still has the same length of filament moved.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To adjust for manufacturing differences, you &lt;strong&gt;adjust the filament diameter&lt;/strong&gt; accordingly in the slicer. This is independent of the filament type.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;However&lt;/em&gt; filaments behave differently on heating, and a good slicer does adjust for that already: if we assume PLA as a baseline, then HIPS will need a higher material input for the same print results because it has a different compressibility and heat expansion behavior in the hotend.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2021-05-09T15:44:51.507" LastActivityDate="2021-05-09T15:44:51.507" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7429" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7425" CreationDate="2018-11-15T16:34:28.060" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;There may be die swell, which will depend on the extrusion force, the material type, and the exact temperature within the hot end.  This is because the viscosity is highly dependent on those parameters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As to line width: again extruded temperature, material, ambient temperature, cooling fan coverage all play into how much &quot;sag&quot; takes place before the material hardens. Oh, and X-Y speed of the nozzle, of course. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Further, for the first layer, if the nozzle is nice and close to the bed, the nozzle itself will force the material to spread laterally while limiting the vertical extent.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally, I don't think it's worth the effort to create a mathematical model.  Spend the 3 cents' worth of electricity, 0.01 cents' worth of material, and 15 minutes of time to calibrate if desired. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2191" LastActivityDate="2018-11-15T16:34:28.060" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7430" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7425" CreationDate="2018-11-15T21:45:35.923" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;So, I think I may have found a satisfactory answer. Cura 3.6 includes separate parameters for line width and shell count:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/L8uJu.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/L8uJu.png&quot; alt=&quot;&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This seems to decouple the line width from the specified nozzle size and target what I believe is a more optimal width (~110% the nozzle diameter).  It was the other version of Cura that was driving a lot of confusion with the line width being defined by the nozzle size.  This also removes the weirdness of not being able slice lines equal to the line width.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks to all who responded.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13481" LastActivityDate="2018-11-15T21:45:35.923" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7432" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7434" CreationDate="2018-11-16T10:26:06.903" Score="2" ViewCount="5787" Body="&lt;p&gt;Given the Marlin Firmware what is the difference between the following lines of code:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;G4 S20&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;G4 P2000&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12999" LastEditorUserId="12999" LastEditDate="2018-11-17T18:01:13.067" LastActivityDate="2018-11-17T18:01:13.067" Title="G4 S20 vs. G4 P2000" Tags="|g-code|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7433" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7432" CreationDate="2018-11-16T10:54:07.443" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The code &lt;code&gt;G4&lt;/code&gt; refers to &lt;em&gt;dwell&lt;/em&gt;. (From what I'm seeing, it can be written as either &lt;code&gt;G4&lt;/code&gt; or &lt;code&gt;G04&lt;/code&gt;). &lt;code&gt;P&lt;/code&gt;is the length of dwell time, usually in milliseconds. The parameter &lt;code&gt;S&lt;/code&gt; seems to be invalid, because the only inputs are &lt;code&gt;X&lt;/code&gt; (seconds), &lt;code&gt;P&lt;/code&gt; (milliseconds), or &lt;code&gt;U&lt;/code&gt; (undefined). If you have &lt;code&gt;S20&lt;/code&gt; in your code, it is invalid, whereas &lt;code&gt;P2000&lt;/code&gt; will cause all axes to remain unmoving for 2 seconds before moving on. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Note: Not all machines will accept &lt;code&gt;X&lt;/code&gt; or &lt;code&gt;U&lt;/code&gt;.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT:&lt;/strong&gt; This answer is specific to &lt;em&gt;non-specific&lt;/em&gt; g-code, taken from this &lt;a href=&quot;https://all3dp.com/g-code-tutorial-3d-printer-gcode-commands/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;em&gt;Source&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/a&gt;, since the OP did not state any specifics about their firmware type or equipment used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11242" LastEditorUserId="11242" LastEditDate="2018-11-16T16:19:32.830" LastActivityDate="2018-11-16T16:19:32.830" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7434" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7432" CreationDate="2018-11-16T13:09:51.973" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The answer is that &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;it depends on the type of firmware&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; you are using.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let us look at the documentation of &lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#G4:_Dwell&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;code&gt;G4&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/a&gt; to find that &lt;code&gt;G4&lt;/code&gt; is valid for all the listed firmware types:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Tt7wT.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Tt7wT.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Pause the machine for a period of time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Furthermore it states that:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Parameters&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Pnnn Time to wait, in milliseconds (In Teacup, P0, wait until all previous moves are finished)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Snnn Time to wait, in seconds (Only on Repetier, Marlin, Smoothieware, and RepRapFirmware 1.16 and later)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It clearly shows that the &lt;code&gt;S&lt;/code&gt; parameter (which defines the pause in seconds) is only supported by a few firmware types. Do note that this documentation may not be up-to-date, so it is best to look into the source code or the users manual of the particular firmware you are using.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;E.g. if you are using Marlin Firmware, &lt;code&gt;G4 S20&lt;/code&gt; will pause the machine for 20 seconds while &lt;code&gt;G4 P2000&lt;/code&gt; will pause the machine for 2000 milliseconds which is 2 seconds. This means that a different time is requested, to have 20 seconds waiting time you could use &lt;code&gt;G4 P20000&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To answer your question what the &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;actual difference&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; between the 2 commands is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;it is &lt;strong&gt;either&lt;/strong&gt; 18 seconds of extra waiting time if your firmware supports the &lt;code&gt;S&lt;/code&gt; parameter, &lt;strong&gt;or&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a firmware that skips or chokes on the command because it is not supported (that also probably depends on your firmware).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-11-16T14:35:54.573" LastActivityDate="2018-11-16T14:35:54.573" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7435" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-11-16T16:26:08.147" Score="0" ViewCount="177" Body="&lt;p&gt;Will the two following lines of code behave differently given that the path that they describe is exactly the same (two segments)?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Option 1&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;em&gt;(describes separate segments giving the start and end point)&lt;/em&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;G92 E0&#xA;G1 F0 X14.73 Y-30.28 Z0&#xA;G1 F3000 X-27.15 Y-18.58 Z0 E2.01&#xA;G92 E0&#xA;G1 F0 X-27.15 Y-18.58 Z0&#xA;G1 F3000 X17.65 Y0.51 Z0 E2.26&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Option 2&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;em&gt;(describes end points only)&lt;/em&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;G92 E0&#xA;G1 F0 X14.73 Y-30.28 Z0&#xA;G1 F3000 X-27.15 Y-18.58 Z0 E2.01&#xA;G1 F3000 X17.65 Y0.51 Z0 E2.26&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12999" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-11-18T20:36:04.090" LastActivityDate="2018-12-23T15:02:50.617" Title="Describing G-code by start and end point versus end only" Tags="|g-code|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7436" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7442" CreationDate="2018-11-16T18:19:05.457" Score="2" ViewCount="2332" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm connecting to a printer that's using &lt;strong&gt;Marlin 1.0.3 dev&lt;/strong&gt; firmware through the &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/pyserial/pyserial&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;pyserial&lt;/a&gt; Python package.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to stream large gcode files into the printer and I guess that the buffer has a limited size. How do I know when the buffer is full, so I can wait until a command is processed to send a new one?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've tried reading a big file, sending all the commands and checking for the printer responses in another thread. I didn't get an error or something that indicates that the buffer is full. I've also didn't found anything about this in the &lt;a href=&quot;http://marlinfw.org/meta/gcode/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;official docs&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's my approach correct? Is there something I'm missing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some of the code:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;def check_for_responses():&#xA;    while(True):&#xA;        response = printer_connection.serial.readline()&#xA;        print(response)&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;async def stream_gcode():&#xA;    await printer_connection.open_connection('COM7')&#xA;    Thread(target=check_for_responses).start()&#xA;    asyncio.sleep(2) # wait to initialize&#xA;    file = open(&quot;test.gcode&quot;, 'r')&#xA;    for line in file:&#xA;        command= printer_connection.format_command(line)&#xA;        printer_connection.serial.write(command.encode())&#xA;&#xA;asyncio.new_event_loop().run_until_complete(stream_gcode())&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7063" LastActivityDate="2018-11-17T23:02:07.813" Title="Strategy to stream large gcode file from serial port" Tags="|marlin|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7440" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7441" CreationDate="2018-11-17T18:09:04.323" Score="2" ViewCount="4003" Body="&lt;p&gt;Given a Marlin firmware and a line of G-code such as the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;G1 F100 X50 Y50 Z0 E-10&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What defines the speed at which the stepper motor associated with the E-value is retracting? It is my understanding that the Feed Rate defines the speed of the movement (in this case 100mm/m) but I am not clear how I could accelerate a retraction? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason I am asking is that I am not seeing a swift removal of material as i retract. Could the slow feed rate be the issue? I am using a pellet printer (WASP 3MT) and generating G-code from polylines on Silkworm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12999" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-01-30T20:28:53.797" LastActivityDate="2019-01-30T20:28:53.797" Title="What defines the speed at which a motor is retracting and how can it be changed?" Tags="|marlin|g-code|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7441" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7440" CreationDate="2018-11-17T19:19:59.147" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You instruct the printer to move from a certain X-Y position instructed by the previous move, to X=50 and Y=50. While moving at a feedrate of 100 mm/min, it will also retract 10 mm of filament (if the previous extruder distance was 0) during that move. If the movement distance is large, the retraction is slow. If you started from X,Y = 49.99,49.99 it would be very fast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want a fast retraction, first move to a position, and than retract fast, so in separate commands. Do note that we usually do it the other way around: first retract fast and then move, this way there is less oozing of the nozzle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To sum up, in your G-code command, the speed of retraction depends on the path of travel (the length and speed defined by the feed rate &lt;code&gt;F&lt;/code&gt;). If it is fast retraction you are after, you should split the command into two separate commands.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-11-18T07:36:06.753" LastActivityDate="2018-11-18T07:36:06.753" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7442" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7436" CreationDate="2018-11-17T23:02:07.813" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well, after some research I found something about Buffering &lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#Buffering&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;on the RepRap documentation&lt;/a&gt;. I didn't see it before.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Works like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You send a command. An &quot;ok&quot; response it's received immediatly, that means that the command was successsfuly added to the buffer.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Then you can send another command. When the buffer is full, the &quot;ok&quot; response will be delayed until a new command it's received.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some commands, for example &lt;strong&gt;M190: Wait for bed temperature to reach target temp&lt;/strong&gt; will cause that the &quot;ok&quot; response will be delayed until the command finish his execution. That means that the printer won't accept more commands in the meantime.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I still have to check how many commands the buffer can save approximately, and if it's convenient to fill it entirely. I guess not, because let's say you want to pause the print. If you added a lot of commands to the buffer, you'll not able to pause it until all of them finished.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,819305,819482&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;This thread&lt;/a&gt; on the RepRap forum was also useful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7063" LastActivityDate="2018-11-17T23:02:07.813" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7443" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7435" CreationDate="2018-11-17T23:22:29.953" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should never use a feed rate of zero to start a command with. Theoretically, the other way around would work as the feed rate specified in the command is the feed rate at the end of the operation, but that is theoretically; if you look into the &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/blob/1.1.x/Marlin/Marlin_main.cpp&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Marlin Firmware sources&lt;/a&gt; you will find the following C-code for the &lt;code&gt;G0&lt;/code&gt; and &lt;code&gt;G1&lt;/code&gt; commands in the function &lt;code&gt;void gcode_get_destination()&lt;/code&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;if (parser.linearval('F') &amp;gt; 0)&#xA;  feedrate_mm_s = MMM_TO_MMS(parser.value_feedrate());&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the first code line you read that the value for the feed rate is only parsed as the value is larger than &lt;code&gt;0&lt;/code&gt;. As there is no prior code shown or feed rate set, the command will not be executed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some extra information from &lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#G0_.26_G1:_Move&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;G0 &amp;amp; G1: Move&lt;/a&gt; describing the usage of the feed rate:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Most RepRap firmwares do subtle things with feedrates.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;G1 F1500           ; Set feedrate to 1500mm/m &#xA;G1 X50 Y25.3 E22.4 ;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Move and extrude In the above example, we first set the feedrate to&#xA;  1500mm/m, then move to 50mm on X and 25.3mm on Y while extruding&#xA;  22.4mm of filament between the two points.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;pre&gt;G1 F1500                 ; Feedrate 1500mm/m &#xA;G1 X50 Y25.3 E22.4 F3000 ; Accelerate to 3000mm/m&lt;/pre&gt; However, in the above example, we set a&#xA;  feedrate of 1500 mm/m, then do the same move, but accelerating to 3000&#xA;  mm/m. Everything stays synchronized, so extrusion accelerates right&#xA;  along with X and Y movement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-11-20T21:25:31.410" LastActivityDate="2018-11-20T21:25:31.410" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7445" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7440" CreationDate="2018-11-18T20:09:45.753" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It seems like you are particularly talking about your extruder, please correct me if I have misread.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the command &lt;code&gt;G1 F100 X50 Y50 Z0 E-10&lt;/code&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;code&gt;G1&lt;/code&gt; - move linearly&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;code&gt;F100&lt;/code&gt; - Use a feed rate of 100 mm/minute&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;code&gt;X50 Y50 Z0&lt;/code&gt; - tells those axes to move to (50, 50, 0) (absolute positioning)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;code&gt;E-10&lt;/code&gt; - tells the extruder to retract 10mm (relative positioning)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are not experiencing high enough retraction speed:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Try increasing the retraction speed in your slicer.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Try increasing the max acceleration for the E axis using &lt;a href=&quot;http://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M201.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;M201&lt;/a&gt; (e.g. &lt;code&gt;M201 E10000&lt;/code&gt; sets to 10,000 &lt;strong&gt;mm/s&lt;/strong&gt;).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Try increasing the max feed rate for the E axis using &lt;a href=&quot;http://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M203.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;M203&lt;/a&gt; (e.g. &lt;code&gt;M203 E25&lt;/code&gt; sets to 25 &lt;strong&gt;mm/s&lt;/strong&gt;).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Notes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you're able to connect to your printer over USB, and you aren't already using an interface to control it, something like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.pronterface.com/#download&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Pronterface&lt;/a&gt; might make it easier to test retraction speeds.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;If&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.personalfab.it/en/downloads-2/download-info/firmware-powerwasp/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; is the correct firmware for your printer, it looks like it is able to save changed values to the EEPROM.  They may be using a modified Marlin firmware.  If so, EEPROM can be saved with &lt;code&gt;M500&lt;/code&gt;, loaded with &lt;code&gt;M501&lt;/code&gt;, and reset with &lt;code&gt;M502&lt;/code&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If your firmware limits what you can set with &lt;code&gt;M201&lt;/code&gt; and &lt;code&gt;M203&lt;/code&gt;, you may want to download the firmware and try to edit its maximum accel/feedrate before flashing.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4751" LastActivityDate="2018-11-18T20:09:45.753" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7446" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7546" CreationDate="2018-11-18T20:46:12.157" Score="1" ViewCount="155" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking for the specific density of the GEL-LAY and LAYWOO 3D materials by manufacturer CC Products.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It isn't noted on their website or on the spool or the box the spools came in. I've looked for hours on Google and various websites, from resellers to people who tested it, without being able to find it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12917" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2018-11-19T11:01:39.867" LastActivityDate="2018-12-05T12:42:45.867" Title="Density of GEL-LAY and LAYWOO 3D print material?" Tags="|filament|print-material|tpe|pva|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7447" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7449" CreationDate="2018-11-18T20:50:05.237" Score="3" ViewCount="55" Body="&lt;p&gt;POROLAY GEL-LAY is a kind of jelly-like material made by exotic filament producer Kay Parthy / CC Products.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is a mix of TPE and PVA that is supposed to have a jelly-like feeling. Once printed, you need to let your print soak in water for several days to remove all of the PVA, then what's left should have a jelly-like feeling since the PVA will have left many micro-cavities in the object.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, my initial tests end up producing prints that feel a bit like jelly when wet, but reverts to a sort of cardboard feeling once dry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does this material needs to stay moist to keep the jelly feeling or not?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12917" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-11-19T08:37:54.063" LastActivityDate="2018-11-19T08:37:54.063" Title="Does GEL-LAY needs to stay moist?" Tags="|filament|print-material|tpe|pva|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7449" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7447" CreationDate="2018-11-19T08:37:08.413" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, GEL-LAY should not be kept moist to stay flexible. It is made from TPE and filled with small PVA particles. It is advised to print less than normal amount of walls and infill so that the PVA can be rinsed out more easily. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you look at the way the manufacturer rinses the material, you frequently see ultrasonic baths that improve the dissolving of the PVA. Once the PVA is removed, TPE is all that it left, which is elastic. If your print is still hard after drying it means that not all the PVA has dissolved yet, once dry it will become gluey/sticky again like PVA, hence the cardboard structure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2018-11-19T08:37:08.413" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7450" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7539" CreationDate="2018-11-19T09:28:33.463" Score="5" ViewCount="464" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there a difference between 3D printing and additive manufacturing if any then explain?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13102" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2019-01-10T15:00:58.353" LastActivityDate="2019-01-10T15:00:58.353" Title="Is there a difference between 3D printing and additive manufacturing?" Tags="|terminology|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7451" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7450" CreationDate="2018-11-19T10:42:35.053" Score="4" Body="&lt;h3&gt;Origin&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3D printing and additive manufacturing (AM) both refer to a &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/3D_printing_processes&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;range of processes&lt;/a&gt; where, opposed to subtractive manufacturing methodologies, materials are joined to create products. E.g. &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fused_filament_fabrication&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;FFF&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Selective_laser_sintering&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;SLS&lt;/a&gt;, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From &lt;a href=&quot;https://wohlersassociates.com/additive-manufacturing.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this reference&lt;/a&gt; you see a reference to 3D printing:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additive manufacturing is the official industry standard term (ASTM&#xA;F2792) for all applications of the technology. It is defined as the&#xA;process of joining materials to make objects from 3D model data,&#xA;usually layer upon layer, as opposed to subtractive manufacturing&#xA;methodologies.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From e.g. &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.tth.com/difference-3d-printing-additive-manufacturing-rapid-prototyping/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this reference&lt;/a&gt; one reads that there is no difference:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Between the terms 3D printing and additive manufacturing, there is no&#xA;difference. 3D printing and additive manufacturing are synonyms for&#xA;the same process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Useage now&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, as the AM processes and applications grew in time, 3D printing has become a subset of AM. As worded by &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.additivemanufacturing.media/columns/additive-manufacturing-and-3d-printing-are-two-different-things&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Peter Zelinski&lt;/a&gt; in August 2017:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To be sure, the terms overlap. They can be used in ways that make them&#xA;sound like synonyms. But the relationship between them and the&#xA;difference between them is this: &lt;strong&gt;3D printing is the operation at the&#xA;heart of additive manufacturing&lt;/strong&gt;, just as “turning” or “molding” might&#xA;be the operation at the heart of a conventional manufacturing process.&#xA;In short, &lt;strong&gt;additive manufacturing requires and includes 3D printing,&#xA;but it also entails more than 3D printing, and it refers to something&#xA;more rigorous&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:29:41.667" LastActivityDate="2018-11-29T21:56:19.410" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7452" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7450" CreationDate="2018-11-19T10:51:49.067" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes and No at the same time:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;3D Printing is a subset of Additive Manufacturing&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;but treated as a synonym at this time&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3D printing is a process that takes some material, in a fluid state that fuses with the model to shape an object from it. The material could be plastics, ceramic paste or even metal. The fluid state could be the normal state, or just be present for the fusing process (think powder and resin based systems), or be a transitional phase (as in filament based systems).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additive manufacturing is just a slight bit bigger: at the moment most, if not all, AM processes are some sort of 3D printing. But AM could include other processes that don't fit 3D printing. For example, an automatic bricklaying machine could, under some view, be Additive Manufacturing, but it is not 3D printing in the traditional sense.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So: All 3D Printing is Additive Manufacturing, but not all Additive Manufacturing is necessarily 3D Printing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:29:41.667" LastActivityDate="2018-11-19T17:29:56.700" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7454" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="293" CreationDate="2018-11-19T17:44:40.547" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have now purchased a hot-end block from &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.3dprinterspares.eu/heat-block-upgrade-kit-for-prusa-i3--compatiable-3d-printers-73-p.asp&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;, that has a &quot;cartridge style&quot; cylindrical thermistor that fits into a drilled hole of the hot-end block, and is fixed by an additional screw. This system makes maintenance much easier, the thermistor slides in and out without force, and it has a connector to change only thermistor (or unscrew hot-end block without removing cables if your hot-end also has a connector).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2KcU4.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2KcU4.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;cyclindrical cartridge thermistor&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I highly recommend this upgrade, if you are using older-style hot-ends, because it makes maintenance much easier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13462" LastActivityDate="2018-11-19T17:44:40.547" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7455" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7456" CreationDate="2018-11-19T22:10:06.197" Score="2" ViewCount="1335" Body="&lt;p&gt;In a &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/5604/how-to-re-program-prusa-firmware-to-accept-a-taller-z-axis&quot;&gt;previous question&lt;/a&gt;, I have modified the Z-axis-height of my Prusa Mk3 from 250 mm to 350 mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Prior to the MMU2 upgrade, I changed the code in my printer to accept the new height the following way:  I changed Arduino → Configuration_prusa.h → Axis settings → line 54 to  &lt;code&gt;#define Z_MAX_POS 210&lt;/code&gt; (it worked perfectly).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, the layout is different for the new firmware v. 3.4.1, and I have no idea where the Z axis settings have gone, if they are even still there.&#xA;Can anyone point me in the right direction to find the Z MAX POS settings, please?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously, I'm not very good with coding, but it looks like the entire code layout has changed for the v. 3.4.1&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Firmware&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.prusa3d.com/drivers/firmware-changelog/#mk3&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Prusa MK3 (firmware 3.4.1)&lt;/a&gt; MMU2 (firmware 1.0.1). The source code on Github is found &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/prusa3d/Prusa-Firmware/releases/tag/v3.4.1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10141" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:29:41.667" LastActivityDate="2019-12-17T06:32:40.313" Title="How to re-program NEW Prusa MK3 MMU2 to accept taller Z axis" Tags="|prusa-i3|firmware|z-axis|prusa-mmu|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7456" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7455" CreationDate="2018-11-19T22:55:42.193" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Basically, the &lt;a href=&quot;/a/5606/5740&quot;&gt;answer&lt;/a&gt; on your &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/5604/how-to-re-program-prusa-firmware-to-accept-a-taller-z-axis&quot;&gt;previous question&lt;/a&gt; is still valid, but your specific questions will be addressed below.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;To answer where the setting has gone by answering:&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;However, the layout is different for the new firmware v. 3.4.1, and &lt;strong&gt;I&#xA;  have no idea where the Z axis settings have gone&lt;/strong&gt;, if they are even&#xA;  still there. &lt;strong&gt;Can anyone point me in the right direction to find the Z&#xA;  MAX POS settings, please?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To find where the setting is, you need to go to the source code repository of Prusa firmware (which is based on Marlin firmware) or &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/prusa3d/Prusa-Firmware/archive/v3.4.1.zip&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;download the zip file with the sources&lt;/a&gt; and use a &quot;grep&quot; search utility to search in files. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The setting &lt;code&gt;Z_MAX_POS&lt;/code&gt; is located in the board configuration file (so in &lt;code&gt;1_75mm_MK3-EINSy10a-E3Dv6full.h&lt;/code&gt; if you have the MK3). This can be found in the online sources (the github page). The online repository is located &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/prusa3d/Prusa-Firmware&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;. Using the search functionality to search within the source code files on that page you are able to find any setting you need to find. If you type in &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/prusa3d/Prusa-Firmware/search?utf8=%E2%9C%93&amp;amp;q=Z_MAX_POS&amp;amp;type=&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&quot;Z_MAX_POS&quot;&lt;/a&gt; and scroll down till you see&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#define Z_MAX_POS 210&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You have found what you where looking for if you located the &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/prusa3d/Prusa-Firmware/blob/3d97d81734e18214afa712cac5066e168016f709/Firmware/variants/1_75mm_MK3-EINSy10a-E3Dv6full.h&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;MK3 board&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;To solve your problem by answering:&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;How to re-program NEW Prusa MK3 MMU2 to accept taller Z axis?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Prusa development team has got rid of &lt;code&gt;Configuration_prusa.h&lt;/code&gt;, &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;you will not find this file in the repository anymore&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Instead, it is &lt;strong&gt;you&lt;/strong&gt; that has to &lt;strong&gt;rename one of the board variant files&lt;/strong&gt; (from the &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/prusa3d/Prusa-Firmware/tree/MK3/Firmware/variants&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&quot;Firmware/variants&quot;&lt;/a&gt; folder) corresponding to the machine you have to &quot;Configuration_prusa.h&quot; and place it in the &quot;Firmware&quot; folder prior to compiling (note that these are simple actions that you can do on any operating system; i.e. copy file, paste file, rename file).  Before you compile the sources, you need to change the value of &lt;code&gt;Z_MAX_POS 210&lt;/code&gt; to &lt;code&gt;Z_MAX_POS 350&lt;/code&gt;. Please read the &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/prusa3d/Prusa-Firmware/blob/f7cd0ffbb0ced452d1d1307af13ba5f9d24d5a05/README.md&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;README file&lt;/a&gt; as this describes exactly in more detail than worded above what you need to do (e.g. use the correct Arduino IDE, e.g. 1.6.9  as this is used by Prusa development team themselves).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Quoting from the README file:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;section describing the renaming of the file:&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;in the subdirectory &quot;Firmware/variants/&quot; select the configuration file&#xA;  (.h) corresponding to your printer model, make copy named&#xA;  &quot;Configuration_prusa.h&quot; (or make simple renaming) and copy them into&#xA;  &quot;Firmware/&quot; directory&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;section describing the compiling:&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;run &quot;Arduino IDE&quot;; select the file &quot;Firmware.ino&quot; from the&#xA;  subdirectory &quot;Firmware/&quot; at the location, where you placed the source&#xA;  codes File-&gt;Open make the desired code customizations; all changes are&#xA;  on your own risk!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;select the target board &quot;RAMBo&quot; Tools-&gt;Board-&gt;RAMBo note: it is not&#xA;  possible to use any of the variants &quot;Arduino Mega …&quot;, even though it&#xA;  is the same MCU&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;run the compilation Sketch-&gt;Verify/Compile&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;upload the result code into the connected printer Sketch-&gt;Upload&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;or you can also save the output code to the file (in so called&#xA;  HEX-format) &quot;Firmware.ino.rambo.hex&quot;: Sketch-&gt;ExportCompiledBinary and&#xA;  then upload it to the printer using the program &quot;FirmwareUpdater&quot;&#xA;  note: this file is created in the directory &quot;Firmware/&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;To compile the sources correctly please take care in using the correct&#xA;  software versions and libraries (Arduino IDE 1.6.9, RepRap&#xA;  Arduino-compatible Mother Board RAMBo by Ultimachine v. 1.0.1, Arduino&#xA;  AVR Boards Built-in by Arduino updated to v.1.6.23)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Sidenote:&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A little more in depth for those who are interested to know (and have some programming skills) why you need to change the name of one of the variants configuration files. Basically, Prusa uses different boards with different settings for the different printers they sell. All the settings for these printer variations are stored in the &lt;code&gt;Firmware/variants&lt;/code&gt; folder. When you rename the variant file and put it a folder layer higher to &lt;code&gt;Configuration_prusa.h (e.g.&lt;/code&gt;Firmware/variants/1_75mm_MK3-EINSy10a-E3Dv6full.h&lt;code&gt;to&lt;/code&gt;Firmware/Configuration_prusa.h&lt;code&gt;)&lt;/code&gt;, these specific printer and board settings are included into the &lt;code&gt;Configuration.h&lt;/code&gt; file (&lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/prusa3d/Prusa-Firmware/blob/MK3/Firmware/Configuration.h&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;line 43 to be precise&lt;/a&gt;) by the C-code include statement:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#include &quot;Configuration_prusa.h&quot;&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This include statement will basically insert (like copy in memory) the statements from the &lt;code&gt;Configuration_prusa.h&lt;/code&gt; file and thus set important constants like:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#define MOTHERBOARD BOARD_EINSY_1_0a&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and many more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-11-25T12:12:52.313" LastActivityDate="2018-11-25T12:12:52.313" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7458" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-11-20T08:49:40.470" Score="6" ViewCount="8124" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a new Prusa i3 MK3 and I have noticed that my prints consistently turn out worse on 0.05 mm layer heights than on 0.10 mm. The edges of the 0.05 mm prints turn out rough and sometimes stringy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KOLcv.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KOLcv.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Detail of a 0.05 mm layer height printed model&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Seems similar to a retraction problem but I never have this issue on 0.10 mm prints with the same retraction settings. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What might be causing this issue?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13243" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-11-20T11:25:31.970" LastActivityDate="2018-12-20T15:01:40.527" Title="Getting worse quality prints on 0.05 mm than on 0.10 mm layer height on Prusa i3 MK3" Tags="|print-quality|prusa-i3|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7459" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7458" CreationDate="2018-11-20T09:25:44.283" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;When printing at small layer heights (high resolution), you probably need to do some test prints first to see if your normal settings work for the lower layer height. You are most probably experiencing an increased pressure build-up in the nozzle due to the nozzle being closer to the bed. A test that might be useful for you is spacing several objects at different distances to see if the retraction, which you already suspect, may be not working optimally or that the nozzle leaks/oozes an excess amount of filament due to pressure build-up. This shows an example of such a test where the nozzle shows oozing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xsmW1.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xsmW1.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Effect of object distance&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tuning the extruder to alleviate the pressure could be:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;an increased retraction length, and/or &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;retraction speed, or &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;looking into the option called coasting where you stop extruding before the printer reaches the end of the deposition path while it still prints material caused by the pressure build-up.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/E1GOE.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/E1GOE.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Tuned extruder&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sub&gt;&lt;em&gt;When printing at 0.05 mm on my home-build CoreXY I experience much smoother prints opposed to printing in higher layer heights (less resolution), but I also get some very fine stringing, noticeable when printing multiple objects or objects with voids.&lt;/em&gt; &lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-11-20T19:49:24.883" LastActivityDate="2018-11-20T19:49:24.883" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7460" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5097" CreationDate="2018-11-20T11:56:02.123" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had the same issue. Hot-end temperature reading stuck at 209 degrees even with hot-end thermistor disconnected  or swapped with bed thermistor on the Anet A8 mainboard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After ordering and swapping the AtMega1284p (using jtagice3 and hot-air soldering station) and the 4.7 Kohm resistor (which measured 2.06Kohm on the board and 4.7kohm off the board) to no avail, the only component left in the circuit that could cause the failure was the capacitor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Swapping the capacitor C47 fixed the stuck reading for me&lt;/strong&gt;. I used a 10uF instead of a 15uF capacitor as indicated in the schematic. I do not believe it makes much of a difference, and they are much more common. Make sure the capacitor can withstand at least 10V, but I got a 30V one, because the price was similar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To any body that runs into this issue, before spending time and money swapping components like I did, &lt;strong&gt;measure the voltage of the node between R41 and C47 with respect to ground&lt;/strong&gt;. This is labeled T56 or test point 56. Compare this voltage to T54, T60, T58, and T62 where similar circuits are placed. You should get a voltage of around 5V ( the pull-up voltage) in the functioning circuits, since we are talking about DC voltage, the capacitor should charge up nearly instantly when the the board is powered, and behave as an open-circuit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my case, C47 was almost in full short-circuit, and I read a low voltage on T56 ( ~0.5v). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since the capacitor was in a low impedance failure mode, the 5V supply voltage of the voltage divider circuit was not enough to power it, hence the fixed temperature readings of the hot-end thermistor ADC channel regardless of the thermistor being connected or not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13462" LastActivityDate="2018-11-20T11:56:02.123" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7462" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7463" CreationDate="2018-11-21T05:47:39.893" Score="4" ViewCount="1064" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a CR-10S 500 and want to change a capacitor on it to improve and solve temperature issues. This capacitor that needs to be changed should be labeled as &quot;C4&quot; as mentioned on &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.jozerworx.com/creality-cr-10s-c4-capacitor-diy-fix-tutorial/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; post but it's not present on my motherboard. The goal is to replace 100uF capacitor with 220uF 16V capacitor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is what the motherboard &lt;strong&gt;should&lt;/strong&gt; look like:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AgZyh.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AgZyh.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;but mine looks different. Below is what it looks like:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Aw0Ww.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Aw0Ww.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is no version number on my motherboard and there is no &quot;C4&quot; capacitor. Also, the component that's labeled &quot;330&quot; on the original board is labeled &quot;470&quot; on my motherboard. It's hard to decide which capacitor to change. On my motherboard, there two capacitors instead of one, closer to the location of the capacitor that needs to be replaced. They are labeled &quot;C42&quot; and &quot;C35&quot; instead of &quot;C4&quot;. I do not want to replace the wrong one since it's risky enough to replace just one capacitor on these boards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyone know my motherboard type or version? Also, which capacitor to change?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a better or zoomed in section of the place:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/896Ft.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/896Ft.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/7462/which-capacitor-to-change-on-cr-10s-s500-motherboard#comment11920_7462&quot;&gt;Trish&lt;/a&gt; requested in the comment, below is also the back side of the motherboard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oj12r.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oj12r.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;theSealion might be right in his answer and I did a test and it all points to &quot;C31&quot; as he suggested but the problem is that the capacitor is different from the one it is supposed to be replaced with like on other CR-10 boards. I am not entirely sure if this is the capacitor since the type of capacitor are different from the one I was suggested to use.  Below is the new capacitor:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/O4iFm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/O4iFm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My current idea is to remove the tiny &quot;C31&quot;, solver wire to pin 4 of LM2596 and to the new capacitor but I do not want to remove the &quot;C31&quot; because I don't want anything to go bad. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I add the new capacitor parallel to the existing &quot;C31&quot; without removing the &quot;C31&quot;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9090" LastEditorUserId="9090" LastEditDate="2018-11-21T19:26:44.977" LastActivityDate="2018-11-23T07:48:55.260" Title="Which capacitor to change on CR-10S S500 motherboard?" Tags="|heat-management|creality-cr-10|power-supply|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7463" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7462" CreationDate="2018-11-21T07:09:08.480" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You are looking for a capacitor that must be connected to Pin 4 of the LM2596.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maybe you could provide a better picture of that area so we could see the different tracks on the board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The LM2596 is in the center of the right side of the board (it is also labeled  with LM2596D). The pins should be counted from top to bottom (in your picture)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My guess is, the Elko you are looking for is connected to C31, and you must look for the positive pin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1h1U6.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1h1U6.png&quot; alt=&quot;LM2596 Wiring&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this wiring diagram Cout is the capacitor you are looking for. The SMD Parts R1, R2 and CFF should be R31, R32 and C31 in your picture.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With the corresponging measurements I would say you do not need to replace the capacitors. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In comparison to the old board your board already has the &quot;fix&quot; implemented. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13095" LastEditorUserId="13095" LastEditDate="2018-11-22T08:35:43.110" LastActivityDate="2018-11-22T08:35:43.110" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7464" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7465" CreationDate="2018-11-21T11:53:53.633" Score="2" ViewCount="1264" Body="&lt;p&gt;Working on getting my Anet A8 upgraded with some extra toys and although the sensor works, I can't get it to home correctly. I'm looking for some assistance to home the X in the center.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The probe is working and showing results, but when homing, it does not home to center (SAFE_HOME is turned on, Y homes to center but X is about 3/4 from endstop) and the Z offset always reports as 0 when using M851. There is a clear gap of about 10 mm between the bed and the nozzle after G29 is ran.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm using the following &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3166267&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;mount&lt;/a&gt;: &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lnypa.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lnypa.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;View of the Anet A8 with alternative mount&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bed is anycubic ultrabase 220*220&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have been using a combination of E3D configuration documents, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WWDkZtWwd6I&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WWDkZtWwd6I&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y_1Kg45APko&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y_1Kg45APko&lt;/a&gt; to try and get it working.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've posted my &lt;a href=&quot;https://pastebin.com/J6Pfu5Lb&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Configuration.h here&lt;/a&gt; to see if anyone can spot what I've done wrong and possible explain it to me so I can learn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13542" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-11-23T06:48:15.133" LastActivityDate="2018-11-23T06:48:15.133" Title="Anet A8 with 3DTouch does not home X in the center" Tags="|marlin|anet-a8|bltouch|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7465" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7464" CreationDate="2018-11-21T13:09:01.573" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your sensor offset for the X direction is incorrect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;code&gt;#define X_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER -28   // X offset: -left  +right  [of the nozzle]&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;should be &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;code&gt;#define X_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER 28   // X offset: -left  +right  [of the nozzle]&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The hints in the comment already suggest that (left is negative, right is positive), your touch sensor clearly is located on the right side, hence +28 mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See also this hint in the configuration file:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&#xA; *      +-- BACK ---+&#xA; *      |           |&#xA; *    L |    (+) P  | R -- probe (20,20)&#xA; *    E |           | I&#xA; *    F | (-) N (+) | G -- nozzle (10,10)&#xA; *    T |           | H&#xA; *      |    (-)    | T&#xA; *      |           |&#xA; *      O-- FRONT --+&#xA; *    (0,0)&#xA;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, &lt;code&gt;#define Z_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER -1.05&lt;/code&gt; is not really necessary. Many prefer this to be &lt;code&gt;0&lt;/code&gt; and set the value later by using &lt;code&gt;M815 Z-1.05&lt;/code&gt; (sent over USB or &quot;printed&quot; from .gcode file over SD card)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You also have not set the boundaries for the sensor to reach, I quote:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;// Set the boundaries for probing (where the probe can reach).&#xA;//#define LEFT_PROBE_BED_POSITION MIN_PROBE_EDGE&#xA;//#define RIGHT_PROBE_BED_POSITION (X_BED_SIZE - MIN_PROBE_EDGE)&#xA;//#define FRONT_PROBE_BED_POSITION MIN_PROBE_EDGE&#xA;//#define BACK_PROBE_BED_POSITION (Y_BED_SIZE - MIN_PROBE_EDGE)&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This can be found in &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/7399/5740&quot;&gt;How to set the boundaries for BLTouch probing&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After a &lt;code&gt;G29&lt;/code&gt;, the head is raised as instructed by the configuration file to employ clearance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An &lt;code&gt;M851&lt;/code&gt; will report the actual value it is set to, if you have not set it (by using &lt;code&gt;M851 Z-x.xx&lt;/code&gt;, or set it through the display using the menu) then it will report &lt;code&gt;0&lt;/code&gt;, that is correct.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-11-21T18:26:05.340" LastActivityDate="2018-11-21T18:26:05.340" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7466" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7467" CreationDate="2018-11-21T21:45:44.417" Score="1" ViewCount="3635" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am confused about installing BLTouch on CR-10S.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is my motherboard:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Aw0Ww.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Aw0Ww.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Below is a screenshot for the wiring of the BLTouch sensor:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qM5YQ.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qM5YQ.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See the circled sections in yellow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Notice that the &lt;strong&gt;Z-&lt;/strong&gt; socket is &lt;em&gt;also&lt;/em&gt; used  (black and white BLTouch wire) and that's normally where the endstop limit switch sensor is plugged in. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I &lt;strong&gt;unplug&lt;/strong&gt; the limit switch wire and simply plug &lt;strong&gt;the&lt;/strong&gt; BLTouch wire to this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;1&lt;/strong&gt;. How can the printer determine when it has reached home?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;2&lt;/strong&gt;. How does it know when to stop when it hits home?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;3&lt;/strong&gt;. I thought BLTouch  is used to do some leveling on the surface... Does BLTouch have a sensor to stop the printer when it hits some?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;4&lt;/strong&gt;. Any way to install BLTouch without removing the Z limit switch sensor?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sorry for the questions. I am just confused about BLTouch using pins of another sensor that's also required.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9090" LastActivityDate="2018-11-21T23:41:49.193" Title="Is endstop / z-probe wire required for BLTouch installation on CR-10S" Tags="|creality-cr-10|bltouch|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7467" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7466" CreationDate="2018-11-21T23:41:49.193" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;A touch sensor is also a height limiting switch, so you sacrifice the Z- limit switch in favor of the touch sensor (or an inductive sensor). Furthermore, all your concerns are taken care of by the firmware. You configure the firmware so that the nozzle homes Z in the center of the build plate after X and Y are homed first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is advised to look up some videos of working touch sensors, then you will get an idea what actually happens. You could start with &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.nl/url?sa=t&amp;amp;source=web&amp;amp;rct=j&amp;amp;url=https://m.youtube.com/watch%3Fv%3DqqV6HYge5cE&amp;amp;ved=2ahUKEwiSxaCe1ObeAhUR3KQKHbhBCyoQjjgwAHoECAYQAQ&amp;amp;usg=AOvVaw3zM8FdoAQBncZ-s6dyKmBC&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;the inventor of the sensor&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2018-11-21T23:41:49.193" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7468" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-11-22T05:00:28.713" Score="1" ViewCount="967" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a WiFi module that only needs two wires connection to work. These are RX and TX pins connected to Arduino or the CR-10S printer board but I don't know if there is any physical or software UARTs TX and RX pins. My goal is to add a Wifi support to the CR-10S printer. Since this is not Arduino and the pins are not labeled, it's hard to tell which TX and RX pins are not being used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the image of my motherboard below, any port or pin with line pointing to is considered as being used by the printing software so I can't used them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gGGeo.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gGGeo.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;CR-10S printer control board&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are still ports or pins that are not used. Can any one tell if there is a  TX and RX pin that is not being used from the image above? I need them to communicate with the printer wirelessly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9090" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-11-22T13:43:03.940" LastActivityDate="2022-10-12T13:15:32.577" Title="Free UARTs TX and RX pins on CR-10S motherboard" Tags="|arduino-mega-2650|creality-cr-10|wi-fi|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7470" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7462" CreationDate="2018-11-22T09:22:25.530" Score="1" Body="&lt;h1&gt;You are looking at the wrong board&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your board might on the surface look like a Creality v 2.0 board, and is indeed from the same family of boards. After trying to discern the parts and finally resorting to google image search, I almost had to maniacally laugh:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The currently latest version is the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.creality3d.shop/products/mainboard-upgraded-replacement-controller-board-latest-v2-1-version-motherboard-for-creality-cr-10s-s4-s5-3d-printer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Creality 2.1&lt;/a&gt;, but your board clearly is a pre 2.0 board, as the 2.0 and 2.1 are quite similar, almost identical in the areas in question. According to the standard nomenclature, a 2.X board should be a full new engineering or vastly re-engineered board. So I looked up a Creality 1.X board - And indeed, it looks somewhat closer to a CR-10 motherboard in the area around the black capacitor, but that is marked 150/151. So it is &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.creality3d.shop/collections/accessories/products/creality-cr-10-motherboard&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;not a Creality 1.1.2 / 1.1.3&lt;/a&gt;, also known as &amp;quot;CR-10&amp;quot; board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My best guess (Confirmed by OP and &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.th3dstudio.com/knowledge-base/creality-cr-10-and-cr-10s-models-what-printer-do-you-have/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt;) is, that your board is an intermediate step between the Creality 1.1.x Board for the CR-10 and the &lt;em&gt;new&lt;/em&gt; CR-10S 2.0/2.1, so by nomenclature a &lt;em&gt;proto-2.0&lt;/em&gt;. Among Makers, it is called &amp;quot;original CR-10S&amp;quot; at times. Your numbers should thus be read from this board:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Zgh0z.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Zgh0z.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Original CR10S Board&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a 100/35V/UT Capacity in the indicated spot in both the green and black renditions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:29:41.667" LastActivityDate="2018-11-22T16:22:06.707" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7471" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7468" CreationDate="2018-11-22T11:07:33.197" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not answering the question directly which pins you can use I would like to propose an alternative solution for your problem, to explain why you should not use RX/TX pins.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An alternative solution includes the use of a small single board computer like the Raspberry Pi (RPi) which is connected over USB with the printer board. E.g. the latest range of RPi (Raspberry Pi 3 Model B and B+) have onboard WiFi, or alternatively an older RPi (Raspberry Pi 2) could be used in conjunction with a USB Wifi dongle. On the RPi you could install a print server that talks directly with your printer over USB. One such an application that is frequently used is OctoPprint (the complete installation/image is referred to as OctoPi). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can then interface with the print server application using a web browser on any mobile device in your network, and if configured as such you could do that potentially from over everywhere over the world. The major advantage is that you then are not communicating G-code over WiFi as you would if you used RX/TX pins. Knowing that WiFi connection adds issues with latency and the possibility of a disconnection during the print, your fail rate would increase over a single board computer approach.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With an RPi the &lt;strong&gt;print will continue regardless of the Wifi connection&lt;/strong&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2018-11-22T11:07:33.197" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7472" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-11-22T13:53:02.357" Score="5" ViewCount="1039" Body="&lt;p&gt;Running my Ultrabase (glass plate) through a MOSFET on an stock A8 board with Marlin 1.1.8. When I do PID tune through Pronterface (by using the &lt;code&gt;M303 E-1 C8 S70&lt;/code&gt; command) the bed heats up no problem and completes the tune, but when printing from SD or using the Preheat PLA command on the printer to heat the bed, nothing happens and then I get &quot;Bed heating failed&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As its working through Pronterface I know the wiring is okay.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://pastebin.com/q5ptKKc5&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Configuration.h&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://pastebin.com/Uijit43n&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Configuration_adv.h&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anet A8 Stock Board&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Ultrabase 220x200 12v&lt;br&gt;&#xA;PID Values extracted from Pronterface Via &lt;code&gt;M303 E-1 C8 S70&lt;/code&gt; from cold bed&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Message take about 1 minute to appear, seems to be a timeout as opposed to an instant error&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Disabling PIDTEMPBED and enabling MAX_BED_POWER resolves the issue allowing the printer to heat the bed&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thermal protection for bed set to    &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#define WATCH_BED_TEMP_PERIOD 180               // Seconds&#xA;#define WATCH_BED_TEMP_INCREASE 2               // Degrees Celsius&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When using PIDTEMPBED the LED on the bed does not light, but when using MAX_BED_POWER / PIDTUNE it does&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13542" LastEditorUserId="13542" LastEditDate="2018-11-23T17:12:44.250" LastActivityDate="2018-12-23T18:01:20.303" Title="Bed heating from Pronterface works, but not from LCD menu nor from SD print" Tags="|marlin|heated-bed|anet-a8|firmware|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7473" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7474" CreationDate="2018-11-22T22:23:25.560" Score="2" ViewCount="8383" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just received my second Ender 3 (see my other questions for the problems that first one developed). Figured it best to have a spare while I upgrade my first one with an ABL. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I assembled it as normal, without any issues, but on applying power the LCD screen just flashes on and off continuously along with the blue LED on the main board. See photo. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I power it off, the Ender 3 logo appears briefly before it goes black. I am in the U.K. and running 240v setting. Is this likely the power supply or the motherboard? I already tried another screen and same problem. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/n7NN4.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13402" LastEditorUserId="13402" LastEditDate="2018-11-25T18:28:41.377" LastActivityDate="2020-07-22T17:23:59.833" Title="Ender 3 Won’t Start - flashing screen and blue LED on main board" Tags="|electronics|creality-ender-3|power-supply|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7474" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7473" CreationDate="2018-11-22T23:52:24.430" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just after I posted this I tried swapping various components with my other Ender 3. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It turns out a faulty power supply will produce this effect. When I swapped out the power supply it started normally.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13402" LastActivityDate="2018-11-22T23:52:24.430" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7475" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7462" CreationDate="2018-11-23T07:48:55.260" Score="2" Body="&lt;h3&gt;An important note on Voltage Rating&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just to add to the existing answers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are planning on upgrading the capacitors to some with larger capacitance, then assuming that they are for the &lt;em&gt;supply regulation/smoothing&lt;/em&gt; then upping the capacitance shouldn't be (too much of) an issue. If they are used for &lt;em&gt;timing&lt;/em&gt;, i.e. in an &lt;em&gt;RC&lt;/em&gt; circuit (which seems unlikely in this particular case), then the capacitance should/must be kept the same.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, the &lt;strong&gt;main issue&lt;/strong&gt; that I see is that the existing capacitors are rating at 35 V, and you are planning on adding lower rating capacitors, i.e. 16 V. This is asking for trouble and at best an early failure, or blown capacitor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The voltage rating should be between 1.5-2.0 times the voltage of the circuit, or better still (possible overkill), double the circuit voltage and then use the next voltage rating.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, for a 12 V circuit, use a 25 V rated capacitor, or 35 V. The 16 V is a bit of a no-no, and besides you don't want to mix voltage ratings for the same circuit, not a good idea, unless you actually want a common point of failure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See sources: &lt;a href=&quot;https://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/15700/selecting-voltage-rate-for-capacitors&quot;&gt;Selecting voltage rate for capacitors&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;https://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/13091/high-voltage-capacitor-in-a-low-voltage-system&quot;&gt;High Voltage Capacitor, in a low voltage system?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4762" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:29:41.667" LastActivityDate="2018-11-23T07:48:55.260" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7476" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7472" CreationDate="2018-11-23T08:09:50.533" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I thought this was an easy problem to fix as the previous &lt;a href=&quot;https://pastebin.com/J6Pfu5Lb&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Configuration.h&lt;/a&gt; you shared had PID incorrectly configured. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm guessing that you experience this LCD screen:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uivye.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uivye.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;&amp;quot;Bed heating failed&amp;quot; message&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I experienced myself when PID tuning the bed is that it matters whether the bed is preheated or not. At first attempt the command such as the  &lt;code&gt;M303 E-1 C8 S70&lt;/code&gt; you used did result a failed PID tuning (note that you should perform the test from a cold bed). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your PID values:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;// PIDTune from Pronterface&#xA;#define DEFAULT_bedKp 305.95&#xA;#define DEFAULT_bedKi 60.24&#xA;#define DEFAULT_bedKd 388.4805&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;are similar results as I have for a 24V 300 x 300 x 3 mm bottom cork insulated heat plate with 3 mm glass.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You have not added the &quot;Configuration_adv.h&quot;, but this file contains the advanced settings for the printer and most probably contain:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&#xA;#if ENABLED(THERMAL_PROTECTION_BED)&#xA;  #define THERMAL_PROTECTION_BED_PERIOD 20    // Seconds&#xA;  #define THERMAL_PROTECTION_BED_HYSTERESIS 2 // Degrees Celsius&#xA;&#xA;  /**&#xA;   * As described above, except for the bed (M140/M190/M303).&#xA;   */&#xA;  #define WATCH_BED_TEMP_PERIOD 60                // Seconds&#xA;  #define WATCH_BED_TEMP_INCREASE 2               // Degrees Celsius&#xA;#endif&#xA;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This describes that the software waits for 60 seconds for the bed to increase 2 &amp;deg;C. If the temperature increase is not observed, there is no heat input to the bed, or it does not reach the set temperature. Please check your values.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-11-23T12:58:03.633" LastActivityDate="2018-11-23T12:58:03.633" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7477" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7478" CreationDate="2018-11-23T13:30:01.763" Score="4" ViewCount="6981" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the documentation of some commands of the Marlin firmware (like &lt;a href=&quot;http://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M112.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;M112 - Emergency Stop&lt;/a&gt;), it says that the &lt;code&gt;EMERGENCY_PARSER&lt;/code&gt; should be enabled to execute them instantaneously.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The thing is, I didn't find any information there of &lt;strong&gt;how to enable&lt;/strong&gt; that &lt;code&gt;EMERGENCY_PARSER&lt;/code&gt; or how it works.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any help will be appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7063" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-11-23T13:51:12.327" LastActivityDate="2018-11-23T13:51:12.327" Title="How to enable EMERGENCY_PARSER in Marlin firmware?" Tags="|marlin|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7478" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7477" CreationDate="2018-11-23T13:44:20.667" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The constant &lt;code&gt;EMERGENCY_PARSER&lt;/code&gt; is located in the advanced printer configuration file &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/blob/1.1.x/Marlin/Configuration_adv.h&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Marlin/Configuration_adv.h&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&#xA;// Enable an emergency-command parser to intercept certain commands as they&#xA;// enter the serial receive buffer, so they cannot be blocked.&#xA;// Currently handles M108, M112, M410&#xA;// Does not work on boards using AT90USB (USBCON) processors!&#xA;//#define EMERGENCY_PARSER&#xA;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To enable the &lt;code&gt;EMERGENCY_PARSER&lt;/code&gt;, you need to remove the &lt;code&gt;//&lt;/code&gt; before &lt;code&gt;#define EMERGENCY_PARSER&lt;/code&gt; and recompile the sources.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Normally your printer will execute a command until it is ready to accept a next instruction. Without the &lt;code&gt;EMERGENCY_PARSER&lt;/code&gt; set, the printer finishes the instruction that it is executing at the moment, if set, the execution is interrupted and immediately sent and thus not waiting for a clear space in the buffer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-11-23T13:49:33.133" LastActivityDate="2018-11-23T13:49:33.133" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7480" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6355" CreationDate="2018-11-24T10:39:45.060" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is my code:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;START CODE:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;M117 Preparing....    ; Nozzle clean message&#xA;&#xA;M140 S{material_bed_temperature_layer_0}   ; set bed temp&#xA;&#xA;M107                  ; Turn layer fan off&#xA;G21                   ; Metric&#xA;G28                   ; Home X/Y/Z axis&#xA;G0 X0 Y0 Z20 F9000    ; Move up 20mm for heating&#xA;&#xA;M104 S{material_print_temperature_layer_0} ; set extruder temp&#xA;M190 S{material_bed_temperature_layer_0}   ; wait for bed temp&#xA;M109 S{material_print_temperature_layer_0} ; wait for extruder temp&#xA;&#xA;G92 E0                ; Zero extruder&#xA;&#xA;G28                   ; Home X/Y/Z axis&#xA;G0 X1 Z0.1 F9000      ; Move up 0.1mm&#xA;G0 Y10 F500           ; Move 10mm to get rid of material&#xA;G0 Z1 F9000           ; Move up&#xA;G0 Y110 F9000         ; Move to line start&#xA;G0 Z0.2 F9000         ; Move down&#xA;&#xA;G1 Y20 E25 F500       ; Extrude 25mm filament over 90mm Y axis&#xA;G1 Y10 F500           ; Move 10mm without extracting&#xA;G92 E0                ; Reset extruder&#xA;G1 E-7 F1400          ; Retract 7mm filament&#xA;&#xA;M117 Printing....     ; Printing message&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;END CODE:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;G91                   ; Incremental coordinates&#xA;G1 E-3 F1800          ; Retract&#xA;G1 Z10 F9000          ; Move up&#xA;G90                   ; Absolute cooridinates&#xA;M106 S0               ; Turn off cooling fan&#xA;M104 S0               ; Turn off extruder&#xA;M140 S0               ; Turn off bed&#xA;G1 X0 Y220 F9000      ; Move back&#xA;M84                   ; Disable motors&#xA;M117 Finished!.       ; Printing message&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's almost working perfectly. I can start prints without checking if the first layer is good (requires a leveled bed).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am open for improvements&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13571" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-11-24T14:00:02.517" LastActivityDate="2018-11-24T14:00:02.517" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7482" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-11-24T18:27:50.540" Score="3" ViewCount="1422" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am currently encountering a problem where under certain circumstances, the extruder stutters when it starts a new layer. I am printing on an Anycubic i3 Mega and am slicing with Cura 3.6.0. The problem seems to occur in the main part of prints, as well as in supports. However it seems to only occur after a retraction has taken place. I have taken a video of the stuttering which can be found here: &lt;a href=&quot;https://photos.app.goo.gl/G3TLKveMsLNRQmgv7&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://photos.app.goo.gl/G3TLKveMsLNRQmgv7&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;When a print is done the stuttering results in walls looking like this:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AlAZQ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AlAZQ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;In this case, the problem occured in the support structure&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;Can anyone help me figure out what is causing the stuttering?&#xA;Thank you very much!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13573" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-01-13T06:40:37.807" LastActivityDate="2020-01-13T06:40:37.807" Title="Stuttering extrusion after layer change" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|extrusion|retraction|anycubic-i3-mega|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7483" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-11-24T21:11:33.500" Score="2" ViewCount="4175" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have designed a bread mark and printed it on the Prusa i3 MK3.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qs5PP.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qs5PP.png&quot; alt=&quot;Bread mark&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wanted it to have as sharp edges as possible, so I used a triangle:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AMTCP.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AMTCP.png&quot; alt=&quot;Triangle&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, it seems that the print cut off layers that are too thin (x-y-wise) and instead of a 1 cm high bread mark, I only have 0.5 cm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the X-Y-resolution of the Prusa i3 MK3? In Slic3r, can I make sure that any wall is made as thick as needed for it to be printed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have the default 0.4 mm nozzle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1570" LastEditorUserId="1570" LastEditDate="2018-11-24T22:52:41.100" LastActivityDate="2018-12-07T07:00:48.127" Title="How small may I design objects for the Prusa i3 MK3?" Tags="|prusa-i3|resolution|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7484" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7489" CreationDate="2018-11-24T22:55:41.020" Score="5" ViewCount="18101" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a small problem where plastic comes out of the nozzle while the printer is at a standstill (normally towards the end of heating the nozzle for a print), and whilst it moves from the line for clearing the nozzle on the left of the bed (Cura) before the actual print starts. This causes a slight problem where the first few millimetres of the printed line curls upwards when the nozzle comes back around again it goes over it but it causes a slight bump that makes a very small (but noticeable) skip or bump in the print on the bottom layer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am using the Ender 3 running Marling 1.1.9 with a Bltouch and a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.amazon.co.uk/Comgrow-Glass-Creality-Printer-Ender-3/dp/B07DSC9TJQ/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1543100048&amp;amp;sr=8-3&amp;amp;keywords=ender%203%20glass&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;glass bed&lt;/a&gt;, I didn't seem to have this problem before I upgraded to the glass bed and Marlin for the Bltouch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any help will be greatly appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13327" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-11-26T14:58:10.837" LastActivityDate="2018-11-27T10:42:58.997" Title="Ender 3 extrudes plastic whilst at standstill, and while moving to start of print" Tags="|marlin|extrusion|creality-ender-3|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7485" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7484" CreationDate="2018-11-24T23:14:10.173" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;This effect is called oozing. At the end of heating up the hot end, left filament becomes so liquid that it oozes out of the nozzle. This left filament could be a left over from the previous print where an insufficient retract prior to the last print finish causes this (you could retract the filament a little further in your &quot;end G-code&quot; script, first reset the E to zero &lt;code&gt;G92 E0&lt;/code&gt; and then retract &lt;code&gt;G1 E-3 F1500&lt;/code&gt;, be sure that the priming length in your &quot;start G-code&quot; takes care of this distance).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-11-25T15:10:00.407" LastActivityDate="2018-11-25T15:10:00.407" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7486" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-11-24T23:20:56.270" Score="2" ViewCount="282" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently bought the Anet A8 from Gearbest. Everything so far seems in order, but one big problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No matter which filament I used (PLA and ABS), the result is always like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hlpSz.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;&amp;quot;Failed print&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hlpSz.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Failed print&quot; title=&quot;&amp;quot;Failed print&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the picture there are the PLA and ABS I've been trying to print. What I tried to actually print is a simple arrow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of the things that caused it was manually trying to push the filament, because the extruder gear doesn't really push it. It doesn't seem like it's stuck, but it just won't move. Then I move it manually, it does this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have tried different methods for the gear to push it and different printing temperatures (first the presets, then PLA 190°C / ABS 240°C) but it does the same thing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13575" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2018-11-25T16:03:19.323" LastActivityDate="2018-11-26T08:24:42.360" Title="Anet A8 won't print properly" Tags="|filament|extruder|anet-a8|heat-management|troubleshooting|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7487" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7455" CreationDate="2018-11-25T00:33:41.287" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Latest firmware: Prusa-Firmware-3.5.0\Prusa-Firmware-3.5.0&#xA;Arduino 1.6.9, RepRap Arduino-compatible Mother Board RAMBo by Ultimachine latest version 1.0.1, Arduino AVR Boards Built-in by Arduino latest version v.1.6.23.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Copy the 1_75mm_MK3-EINSy10a-E3Dv6full file from&#xA;Prusa-Firmware-3.5.0\Prusa-Firmware-3.5.0\Firmware\variants into &#xA;Prusa-Firmware-3.5.0\Prusa-Firmware-3.5.0\Firmware and rename it Configuration_prusa.h.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Open Firmware Arduino file.  Configuration_prusa.h shows in the tabs next to Configuration_adv.h.  Change //Travel limits after homing #define Z_MAX_POS from 210 to 350.  Verify → &#xA;Sketch uses 225,482 bytes (87%) of program storage space. Maximum is 258,048 bytes.&#xA;Global variables use 6,091 bytes of dynamic memory.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10141" LastActivityDate="2018-11-25T00:33:41.287" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7489" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7484" CreationDate="2018-11-25T13:07:30.307" Score="5" Body="&lt;h1&gt;basics first&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The viscosity of plastic is temperature dependent: the warmer it is, the lower it gets and thus the more &quot;runny&quot;. The lower the viscosity is, the less force is needed to move it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In printing, a pressure is applied to the filament from the extruder. Pressure is the force by area, thus for our look pretty much the same: the extruder exerts a force on the filament, to overcome the viscosity keeping it in the nozzle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A secondary effect is, that heated material expands, depending on what kind of material is in the nozzle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;what happens&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The whole problem starts with shutting off the printer after the print: as the filament cools it shrinks. As the motors are turned off, the solidifying and shrinking plastic pulls at the filament. The filament can change its location or be pulled a little through the extruder, keeping the space quite well filled without cavities. Bowden style can change the mere filament path a little to compensate some of the shrinkings by shifting its path from hugging the outer wall to doing the same on the inner wall.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you start to heat up the printer, there is no force applied on the filament from the extruder to push it out of the nozzle. But when you shut it down, there was some filament in the nozzle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The filament melts and its viscosity drops, but at the same time, it expands. The extruder does not yet apply force, but as the material expands, it pushes against the filament stuck above it. Newton's 3rd law is the iconic &lt;em&gt;Actioni contrariam semper et æqualem esse reactionem&lt;/em&gt; or as we know it short: &lt;em&gt;Actio = Reactio&lt;/em&gt;, the force you exert in one direction equals a force applied in the reverse direction. Thus, the expanding filament pressing back against the extruder &lt;em&gt;also&lt;/em&gt; exerts a force against itself down against the nozzle. The same is true for the nozzle, but the nozzle has one difference: it has a hole, where the forces are bundled to force filament out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At some point, the force from the expanding filament is big enough to overcome the viscosity keeping the filament in the nozzle and it oozes out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;fixes&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are several ways to fix this in slicing, but I prefer the end-code method.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Modify your &lt;strong&gt;end code&lt;/strong&gt; to provide space in the nozzle while it is still hot. Simply add &lt;code&gt;G1 E-3 F1800&lt;/code&gt; to retract quickly at the end of print. F1800 is rather fast.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Modify your &lt;strong&gt;start code&lt;/strong&gt; could help in preventing very runny filaments from oozing, but you usually need to zero the extruder first with &lt;code&gt;G92 E0&lt;/code&gt; and you &lt;em&gt;might&lt;/em&gt; also need to allow negative values with &lt;code&gt;G1 S1&lt;/code&gt;. This isn't usable in all firmware versions, but one can use &lt;code&gt;G92 E3&lt;/code&gt; to set it to 3, then extrude, then 0.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Example End Code&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Watch line 2. This is what prevents my Ender 3 from oozing in the first place&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;G91 ;relative position set&#xA;G1 F1800 E-3 ; Retract 3 mm to prevent oozing on startup&#xA;G1 F3000 Z10 ; Move up 10 mm to clear the print&#xA;G90 ;absolute position set&#xA;G28 X0 Y0 ; home x and y axis to clear the print&#xA;M106 S0 ; turn off part cooling fan&#xA;M104 S0 ; turn off extruder&#xA;M140 S0 ; turn off bed&#xA;M84 ; disable motors&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Example Start Code addition&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is just a snippet that forces retraction at the start, once the filament is hot. it &lt;em&gt;WILL&lt;/em&gt; though make the first three millimeters of push come empty, thus should be combined with a cleaning that uses more than this - check out &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6355/writing-g-code-swiping-at-start-of-print?s=1|65.5276&quot;&gt;Writing G-code : swiping at start of print&lt;/a&gt; for better nozzle priming.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;G92 E3&#xA;G1 E-3 F1000&#xA;G92 E0&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2018-11-27T10:42:58.997" LastActivityDate="2018-11-27T10:42:58.997" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7491" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-11-26T05:34:42.407" Score="1" ViewCount="45" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to create a Pneumatic cylinder, The purpose is, Inside it will will contain a Nylon piston, and one end will be filled with clay. Cylinder will be closed from either side using end caps, which also has Push-in connectors(1/4&quot; BSP). Compressed Air from a cylinder(Max. pressure of Cylinder 10 Bar) will be given to Piston side through a Non return valve and a Regulator. Which will push the Clay out through other end. It is for my Clay printer. Hope anyone here have some background with these kind of system&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What should be the Wall thickness of Cylinder? It should safely handle Maximum pressure that might arise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have already provided a Safety valve calibrated at 6 Bar in my prototype that I made from a GI water Pipe, which has thickness of 3.85 mm. Is there any way the pressure inside the tank could reach a pressure higher than the maximum pressure Compressor can deliver (Compressor is rated for 10 Bar, with cutoff at 8 Bar)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm thinking about making the cylinder using a 100 x 5.75 mm Aluminium Pipe and End caps from Aluminum Rods with wall thickness of 10 mm. Would this be enough?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I give more thickness for End caps than cylinder?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How to find the maximum pressure rating of the cylinder if material, Wall thickness and diameter are known?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10670" LastActivityDate="2018-11-26T05:34:42.407" Title="Pneumatic clay cylinder for Clay 3D printing" Tags="|ceramic-printer|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7493" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7486" CreationDate="2018-11-26T08:24:42.360" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;because the extruder gear doesn't really push it. It doesn't seem like it's stuck, but it just won't move.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It looks like stepper issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Did you check stepper connections? Maybe there is a loose wire?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Maybe your extruder is assembled incorrectly? Please check google images to see how extruder should be assembled and/or give us some photos of your extruder.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Maybe your printer is setup wrong, there is small potentiometer on mainboard which sets stepper current, I had problems when it was rotated slightly too far. Try commanding your printer to extrude slowly for several seconds and in this time turn pot at least one time (it wraps around) until it starts to extrude (do not move printhead during this, turning this pot WILL make motors skip and crash into home/end). If you don't have problems with other motors, this may not be your issue but is worth checking.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Try homing your axes first, sometimes after startup motors won't work correctly until homing axes.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Try pressing reset once after starting printer.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How to find that pot? It's just to the side of capacitor which is near &quot;Z-Motor2&quot; connector.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13588" LastActivityDate="2018-11-26T08:24:42.360" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7494" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7534" CreationDate="2018-11-26T11:23:30.187" Score="2" ViewCount="1748" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a piece printed in white ABS, which is a half-scale replica of an unvarnished oak sculpture. After sanding off the worst of the layer lines, I'd like to paint it to get a nice wood finish. I believe that most hobby paints should stick fine, but how should I paint it to get a nice oaky appearance? Should I do layers of different colours? Will I get better results with spray or brush paints?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13100" LastActivityDate="2018-11-29T18:18:37.890" Title="How to paint ABS to look like wood" Tags="|abs|post-processing|color|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2018-12-01T11:52:45.957" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7495" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7500" CreationDate="2018-11-26T11:47:41.900" Score="3" ViewCount="581" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is my first printer, a core xy (Tronxy X5S) printer, and it is losing steps during diagonal movements. The curious thing its that fail is even, I've printed 2 calibration cubes and they are almost equals:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/X2pXk.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/X2pXk.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When it lose the step, you can ear a &quot;toc&quot; sound, as in this footage at 3s: &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/aRJB--QBMC4&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://youtu.be/aRJB--QBMC4&lt;/a&gt; This is my realy first print, and I don't have much experience with 3d printing, thanks in advance for any information!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13589" LastEditorUserId="13589" LastEditDate="2018-11-27T10:27:46.393" LastActivityDate="2018-11-27T10:27:46.393" Title="Tronxy X5S losing steps during print" Tags="|belt|tronxy-x5|corexy|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7496" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-11-26T16:01:52.730" Score="4" ViewCount="841" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was noticing on a print I had just done that the quality was not up to typical snuff. I had just started using a roll of PLA filament that I had been keeping on a shelf without a wrapper for a couple months. How long can you store filament before it gets too hydrated from the air to print? I expected more than a couple months but perhaps I am wrong?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13590" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2018-11-26T22:11:12.123" LastActivityDate="2022-07-12T13:02:56.293" Title="Filament long term storage" Tags="|filament|filament-quality|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7497" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7512" CreationDate="2018-11-26T19:29:51.323" Score="6" ViewCount="2304" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought a few new nozzles expecting them to come with that little tube that comes out of the nozzle. They didn't come with them after all, so I tried to reuse the tube I originally had in the printer. Turns out my old tube is 4mm OD and 2mm ID, but the new nozzles have 2mm holes for the tube to go in. I use 1.75mm filament, so it seems like to be able to fit the filament through the tube would be impossible barring a tube with an 0.125mm wall. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is, can I put the tube outside of the nozzle? That is, not stuck in the hole for the nozzle. In theory, the tube would still direct the filament into the right place. It looks like that might be the point of these new nozzles, since it seems so unlikely that someone would be able to stick a filament tube in the nozzle. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If not, where can I find the tubes I need? I've looked in a few different places and I can't find it. Or are the nozzles useless, and should I return them? Thanks for the help. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13593" LastActivityDate="2018-11-28T18:40:38.080" Title="Can the filament tube be outside of the nozzle?" Tags="|filament|nozzle|ptfe-tube|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7498" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7497" CreationDate="2018-11-26T21:55:53.400" Score="5" Body="&lt;h1&gt;Let me clean up a little nomenclature&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The PTFE tube is either a Bowden Style Setup delivering the filament from the extruder down through the cool-end and to the heatbreak or just a liner in the cool-end and heatbreak for direct drive. In both cases they are to prevent clogs. In most setups it is &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; pushed into the nozzle which is in the heater block (they exist, see below).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The liner/Bowden tube guides the filament through the heatsink and into the proper Hotend/Meltzone. In the better designs intended for higher temperature like ABS (see left half), it ends in the heatbreak. This also has the added benefit of having less chance to leak if the tube slips a little bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Simple setups (see right half) butt it against the nozzle and thus limit the temperature range. This kind of butted setup can lead to leakage if the tube slips up. In either case, it is no problem to reuse the PTFE tube when changing nozzles, it is even advisable in the case of a Bowden setup as it might change the length of the path.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The nozzle is usually screwed into the heater block from below, and for best use, one screws it against the heatbreak in a heated state - this is called hot-tightening.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/A1IvJ.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/A1IvJ.png&quot; alt=&quot;2 comon types of hotend assembly in cut view&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you somehow end up destroying your PTFE Tube, you can get them under the keyword PTFE tube, Bowden tube or Pneumatic PTFE tube on the internet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;PTFE inside the nozzle?&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, these exist, OP has them, they look like this, and are not what has become the industry standard. &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TNkrw.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TNkrw.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Nozzle with PTFE liner&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can think of no good reason to put an PTFE Sleeve &lt;em&gt;into&lt;/em&gt; the nozzle, but someone did it, and it sis a valid approach. However, I see several problems with it:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the PTFE tube degrades if pushed deep into the melt zone and can lead to clogs.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the added PTFE is not a very good at transmitting heat, thus reducing the effectiveness of the melt zone. This can lead to needing either much lower printing speeds or a much higher printing temperature to achieve good prints&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It should be of no issue to convert from this style into the butted-style (right) just by using a short length of PTFE in the heatbreak. I would prefer though to combine it with a heatbreak where the PTFE ends and making this what is commonly referred to as an &amp;quot;all metal hotend&amp;quot; (left).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:29:41.667" LastActivityDate="2018-11-27T19:33:11.580" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7499" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7496" CreationDate="2018-11-26T22:10:05.603" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;In &lt;strong&gt;theory&lt;/strong&gt;, most filaments don't go bad within a year. However, praxis shows, that averse conditions can impact the filaments over time and age them to unusability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Among the damaging factors is heat, but most filaments also are hygroscopic and absorb water to some small degree, or even heavily like Nylon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a result, it always a good idea to at least try to store filament dry. To enforce this, some use racks in a well-heated room, others are blessed with very dry weather overall. And on some locations, like the coast, you might even be forced to use dryboxes for each and every filament to try to slow the degradation of steady hot humid air leaching out the additions from the filament.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Dryboxes can keep the filament reasonably isolated from the surrounding air and so prevent moisture interacting with them to some degree. It is also a good idea to store them out of direct sunlight, as UV light might destroy color and/or the plastic. More information on why to use them is for example at &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6982/which-filaments-actually-do-need-to-be-stored-in-a-drybox?&quot;&gt;this question&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A couple construction videos using an IKEA box and a bit of foam were offered by &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OY5n9q-wS7k&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Tom (Thomas Sanladerer)&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WEFtUKGAd7k&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;CNC Kitchen (Stefan Hermann)&lt;/a&gt; in 2017.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But fear not: most filaments - PLA included - can be freshened up again if the damage is not to prolonged! Baking them at a low temperature or storing them in a dehumidifier has worked in some climates. For PLA, keep the temperature at below 80°C. A couple of hours should get some the moisture that has seeped in out again. The Quality might not get back to that of fresh filament in all cases, but you might at least regain reasonable to good printability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://3dsolved.com/filaments-and-moisture-absorption/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Also note, that different filaments are differently affected.&lt;/a&gt; ABS for example is a little less hygroscopic than PLA, while HIPS is one of the least hygroscopic filaments available.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2022-07-12T13:02:56.293" LastActivityDate="2022-07-12T13:02:56.293" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7500" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7495" CreationDate="2018-11-26T23:00:01.277" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had the same issue with my X5S when I first got it assembled. Because it's CoreXY, if one pulley slips, you'll skip steps in the diagonal. Check both set screws on your pulleys for the X and Y.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13596" LastActivityDate="2018-11-26T23:00:01.277" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7501" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7503" CreationDate="2018-11-26T23:38:43.527" Score="2" ViewCount="12912" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to extend &lt;strong&gt;all&lt;/strong&gt; my CR-10S wires. I have two long wire types: 22 and 18 AWG wires. I've done some research and found the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Extruder heating element:  22 AWG or lower.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Extruder thermistor sensor:  22 AWG or lower (Doesn't really need much amp).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fans:  24 AWG or lower (Doesn't really need much amp).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Limit switch/filament sensor: 24 AWG or lower (Doesn't really need&#xA;much amp).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is where I've problems determining which wire gauge to use:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Stepper motor wires: ?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bed heater wires: ?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What's the wire gauge needed for the stepper motor and bed heater wires? Obviously, the bed heater needs more amp so I expect lower wire gauge. Is my 18 gauge wire enough for this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the &lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/wiki/Heated_Bed#Wiring&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Reprap&lt;/a&gt; site, it says that 18 AWG or lower is fine for the heating bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9090" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-11-27T08:07:45.353" LastActivityDate="2022-10-02T15:28:55.977" Title="Proper wire gauges for extending all CR-10S wires" Tags="|heated-bed|stepper-driver|creality-cr-10|wire-type|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7502" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-11-27T00:11:47.243" Score="2" ViewCount="58" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am working with a &quot;Gizmo3D&quot; type DLP resin printer, and using Monocure &quot;General Grey&quot; resin.  I'm having some issues with getting this resin to cure to the build plate well enough to prevent it from &quot;wandering&quot; across during the print, without &quot;cooking&quot; the resin and distorting it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone have experience using this family of resin that could suggest some of their process details?  I am getting acceptable quality incremental print with 100 micron (0.1&amp;nbsp;mm) layer thickness and a resin temp of 25&amp;nbsp;°C but I am having issues with the layers of the model &quot;peeling away&quot; from the base layers that get put down on the build plate first.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13586" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2018-11-27T01:48:42.460" LastActivityDate="2018-11-27T11:28:51.190" Title="Gizmo3D SLA + Monocure resins not curing" Tags="|print-quality|sla|dlp|resin|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7503" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7501" CreationDate="2018-11-27T00:42:32.323" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If my calculations are correct, a typical ceramic heating element for the extruder heating block runs 40 W. At 12 V dc, that equates to &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.rapidtables.com/calc/electric/Watt_to_Amp_Calculator.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;3.33 A&lt;/a&gt;. A &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/wire-gauges-d_419.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;24 awg wire is rated for 3.5 A&lt;/a&gt;, which means it barely covers the draw from the heater. A high torque &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B00PNEQKC0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Nema 17 motor&lt;/a&gt; will draw 2 A (which is probably heavier than most standard stepper motors in most 3D printing applications). Seeing as how the 18 awg wire is rated to 9.5 A, you should have no issue extending your wires using this gauge of wire for all of the extensions. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11242" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-11-27T07:19:12.913" LastActivityDate="2018-11-27T07:19:12.913" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7504" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7501" CreationDate="2018-11-27T06:42:52.583" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;This answer expands on the heat bed wires question which is not addressed in &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/7503/5740&quot;&gt;this answer&lt;/a&gt; and gives a foundation for the edit of the question stating that AWG 18 or lower is sufficient.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The current depends on the voltage your machine uses. The question does not state whether you modified the power supply or not. Typical values for the resistance of the bed are in the range of 1.2 - 1.8 Ω (Ohms). This implies a maximum current of &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$\frac{12}{1.2}=10 A$&lt;/span&gt; (the stock power supply is 12 V, if the power supply is changed to 24 V, the current doubles). From &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/American_wire_gauge&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this reference&lt;/a&gt; you can look up the &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ampacity&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;ampacity&lt;/a&gt; (maximum current through a wire) which wire gauge fits the current for your application depending on the maximum temperature you want it to reach. For 10 Amps, you will see that AWG 18 can be used for a single wire when you allow the wire to heat up to 60 °C. Note that bundling wires lowers the ampacity of a wire, because the cooling is less optimal for bundled wires (this is called de-rating).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please be careful when you read that certain wires are sufficient for your application. It is best to calculate the current your specific application draws from the power supply rather than relying on somebody else's calculation, it could well be that the assumptions are different than in your specific case. A &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Multimeter&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;multimeter or multitester&lt;/a&gt; is a valuable asset to aid in your calculations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2022-10-02T15:28:55.977" LastActivityDate="2022-10-02T15:28:55.977" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7505" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7496" CreationDate="2018-11-27T07:40:06.970" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The answer is that it depends on the climate you are in or the climate in your house. The more humid, and the higher the temperature, the faster the moisture is taken up in the filament (note also that 40 % RH on a warm day has &lt;strong&gt;much&lt;/strong&gt; more moisture in the air than 60 % RH on a cold day).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have obtained a spool of filament that has been left in the garage for a few months, this spool has taken up so much moisture that it has become very brittle (unspooling will break the filament). Note that once the filament has taken up moisture, you could de-hydrate it, but it will never reach the same properties anymore as the moisture will change the molecules (shorten them), once broken they will not fuse by hydrating. It will however get rid of the water content so that there will be no steam bubbles when you print the filament.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that there are many types and brands of PLA, each with their own formula. The quality of the PLA has improved much over the years, implying that the moisture intake also depends on the brand and time of purchase. It is therefore very difficult to answer your question with a specific time frame, it could be months, but it could also be a week.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;sub&gt;&#xA;My largest printer is located in a room where occasionally laundry is being dried, and although there is only a little ventilation, the large spools of PETG do not take up the moisture of the laundry. Basically, the moisture saturation is also depending on the type of filament.&lt;/sub&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2022-07-12T10:33:17.527" LastActivityDate="2022-07-12T10:33:17.527" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7506" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2772" CreationDate="2018-11-27T11:21:25.013" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Gamma butyrolactone is by far the best product to remove cyanoacrylate and also great to dissolve PLA.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13602" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-11-27T16:42:34.710" LastActivityDate="2018-11-27T16:42:34.710" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7507" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7502" CreationDate="2018-11-27T11:28:51.190" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I get best results from sun curing by putting it in water in the sun for 20-30 min.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I personally do not like Monocure Red one. I find the Nova3D prints better, has a lower oder, and cheaper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13602" LastActivityDate="2018-11-27T11:28:51.190" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7509" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-11-27T19:22:23.510" Score="0" ViewCount="413" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here is the sequence of my Gcode, printed in mid-air:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Print (E20)&#xA;Retract (E-20)&#xA;Dwell (G4 10,000)&#xA;Move away (E0)&#xA;Print (E20)&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See the path on the printscreen below:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rbYqY.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rbYqY.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the printer dwells it oozes. How can i stop that?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am using a WASP 3MT, pellet extrustion, 3mm nozzle, Marlin firmware, Gcode done on Silkworm for Grasshopper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Gcode around the dwell:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;G1 F300 X-25 Y-25 Z30 E15.96&#xA;G92 E0&#xA;G1  F0 X-25 Y-25 Z30&#xA;G1 F1000 X-25 Y-25 Z36 E-89.42&#xA;G92 E0&#xA;G4 P10000 &#xA;G1  F0 X-25 Y-25 Z36&#xA;G1 F1000 X-25 Y-25 Z32 E0&#xA;G92 E0&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12999" LastEditorUserId="12999" LastEditDate="2018-11-27T19:38:34.577" LastActivityDate="2018-11-27T22:02:48.167" Title="When dwelling G4, my printer is oozing, how can i stop that?" Tags="|g-code|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2018-12-12T04:08:45.907" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7510" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9829" CreationDate="2018-11-27T19:34:27.540" Score="6" ViewCount="908" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've seen comments about glow-in-the-dark filament being abrasive and would damage a bronze nozzle so a hardened nozzle is recommended.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is the same true for filament that changes colour when warm (for example when held in your hands)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13607" LastEditorUserId="13607" LastEditDate="2018-11-27T19:37:45.293" LastActivityDate="2019-04-30T19:48:53.020" Title="Does color changing PLA require a hardened nozzle?" Tags="|pla|nozzle|color|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7511" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7509" CreationDate="2018-11-27T20:03:59.507" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since you retracted the filament (very far), but stay at elevated temperature for almost 2 minutes, this must be left-over residue inside the nozzle/throat that is stuck to the wall that becomes liquid and oozes out of the nozzle because gravity pulls it downwards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/7489/5740&quot;&gt;This answer&lt;/a&gt; on the question &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/7484/ender-3-extrudes-plastic-whilst-at-standstill-and-while-moving-to-start-of-prin&quot;&gt;&quot;Ender 3 extrudes plastic whilst at standstill, and while moving to start of print&quot;&lt;/a&gt; explains the oozing problem in detail. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-11-27T22:02:48.167" LastActivityDate="2018-11-27T22:02:48.167" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7512" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7497" CreationDate="2018-11-27T20:57:12.037" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;To answer your question directly, the PTFE tube (or a separate thin walled PTFE tube for the bottom part of the heatbreak) &lt;em&gt;generally&lt;/em&gt; always is outside the nozzle, so yes (unless you have an all-metal hotend, then there is no PTFE tube up to the nozzle). But as read from your question, your setup has the tube included inside the nozzle (this is described in more detail below). However, you can change the nozzle for one that does not have the PTFE tube go into the nozzle but rest against the nozzle provided you can find the correct sized nozzle/tread for it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The nozzles your printer uses are non standard nozzles that are featured on a few printer designs. It is called an &quot;MK10&quot; nozzle, but there is &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/7366/5740&quot;&gt;no such thing as a standard &quot;MK10&quot; nozzle&lt;/a&gt;. Different designs of the &quot;MK10&quot; nozzle exist. Originally, the &quot;MK nozzles&quot; are the creation of Makerbot; an excellent post found in &lt;a href=&quot;https://groups.google.com/forum/m/#!topic/wanhao-printer-3d/TEdslEknny4&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this thread&lt;/a&gt; (all credits for the MK history go to user &quot;&lt;em&gt;vermon&lt;/em&gt;&quot;) discuss the development over time of the &quot;MK&quot; nozzles. An answer based on this posting is found &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/5437/5740&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The nozzle your printer has is slightly larger than normal nozzles. The CEO of ToyBuilder labs explains the difference between an &quot;MK10&quot; and an MK8 in &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UnI0aeTw9iA&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this video&lt;/a&gt;. Take care of the thread size of such nozzles, the &quot;MK10&quot; uses M7 threads, while M6 is more common!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ah8Od.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ah8Od.png&quot; alt=&quot;&amp;quot;MK10&amp;quot; vs. MK8 nozzle&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As explained in &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/7498/5740&quot;&gt;this answer&lt;/a&gt;, the use of the PTFE tube inside the nozzle is questionable. The heating zone in effect is reduced to the tip of the nozzle. The heat transfer from heating element, to heater block to nozzle is only possible because of the enlarged design and the flange that give extra surface area for heat conduction to take place. It is not expected that such nozzles are able to print optimally at high speeds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-11-28T13:31:53.987" LastActivityDate="2018-11-28T13:31:53.987" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7513" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7509" CreationDate="2018-11-27T21:04:13.250" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ooze is virtually unstoppable. This becomes apparent once you understand why an nozzle oozes. As the filament melts, its viscosity drops and the free flowing filament slowly makes it way out of the nozzle due to the action of gravity (and sometimes thermal expansion). If you make the throat air tight then you can use air pressure to keep the plastic from oozing out. Further you would have to immediately turn off the heat to the nozzle and cool the nozzle as fast as possible (possibly with a blower). Even if you retract the filament all the way out of the throat, there could still be some plastic left inside that will ooze out.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12857" LastActivityDate="2018-11-27T21:04:13.250" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7514" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7509" CreationDate="2018-11-27T21:35:35.103" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You retract the filament, yet you keep the heater on while the dwell. As you pull the filament back, you pull only the non-molten filament. The retaining molten filament follows gravity and sags down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is fixable to some degree though: Turn off the heat to let the filament cool before having the machine hibernate. That can reduce the amount of oozing, but not fully.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastActivityDate="2018-11-27T21:35:35.103" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7515" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7497" CreationDate="2018-11-28T00:37:41.587" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, you can use a direct drive hotend with a bowden tube, but it won't just plug together. You just need a way to secure the end of the bowden tube to be centered above and as close the the hotend mouth as possible. In a pinch, you can spin a 4mm nut onto the tube and secure it down against the hotend mount with zipties, otherwise I would print a nice bracket.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It may be more prone to jam on filament swaps than a proper bowden configured hotend but it will work fine in normal use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit, I was under the impression you were speaking of the bowden tube between the extruder and the hotend, not the liner inside of the hotend.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12950" LastEditorUserId="12950" LastEditDate="2018-11-28T18:40:38.080" LastActivityDate="2018-11-28T18:40:38.080" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7516" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="107" CreationDate="2018-11-28T05:57:02.737" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've noticed if I'm printing too close too the bed or if the bed isn't level to nozzle across the whole bed the supports will leave marks on the print where the print was 'smushed' by the nozzle being slightly closer on that side. Also, in Simplify3d you can increase the vertical and horizontal distance between the part and the support, which makes a big difference as far as cleanup, too far though and the support doesn't support. I also increase the speed of support printing, since it directly affects layer adhesion. The faster the speed the less likely to bond to the model.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I use small files for small quick imperfections, and sometimes small knives for stubborn brims. For smoothing I now use a quick acetone dip on my parts. Usually 10-30 seconds completely submerged at most. Then without touching the print (it's very mushy) place it down or hang (outside) to dry out the acetone for about two hours for every hour printed or so. You can handle small parts within 10 minutes if you dipped less than 15 seconds. The acetone evaporates over time and the abs print regains its strength completely once all the acetone is gone. This can take days if it's a big part (maybe 9&quot; x 9&quot;) and was dipped in acetone for longer than 30 seconds. If the part smells like acetone, it's still evaporating.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't over dip the part in acetone, you can't go back. You don't want to lose the form of your print. You can always dip again. Forget the heat acetone method or cool acetone vapor method that takes hours. Recommend doing it OUTDOORS and perhaps a gas mask and eye protection, acetone is very thin and splashes no matter how careful you are. I tried brushing it on but the results were not very consistent. ABS floats in acetone so consider how your going to get the part submerged and then subsequently out without leaving huge finger prints. Practice on a few small prints or even scrap models and failed prints. Strangely, nobody suggests this method in forums. It's much faster and easier than the other vapor methods. The dry out time isn't fast but you don't have to watch it the whole time. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Always be safe and keep acetone away from any ignition source such as an open flame and ensure proper ventilation. 100% Acetone is used in millions of salons every day, safely. Heating acetone up in an enclosed space has severely injured people so I don't recommend adding any heat source.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Acetone evaporates in water at the same rate as not in water (open air) so I'm going to try mixing water and acetone to slow the smoothing for better control and a larger bath. Even medium sized parts need a good deal of acetone to completely submerge them. Also, you can try doing one side and recording the seconds submerged. Then when it's dried out, dip the other side the same amount of time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sure! I just did two scrap pieces since you asked. It's very difficult to capture gloss. These were about 15 seconds in acetone rotating them to get even coverage in acetone since the bath wasn't large enough to fully submerge them. This method can leave blemishes but these are warped or failed prints anyway. I enhanced one picture to try to show layer detail. &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/f6HaT.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nf6EI.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yUGc6.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BKMQQ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11203" LastEditorUserId="11203" LastEditDate="2018-11-30T00:11:05.700" LastActivityDate="2018-11-30T00:11:05.700" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7517" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7496" CreationDate="2018-11-28T06:15:04.220" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;To answer your question: it depends on the relative humidity. Generally, a few weeks in a semi-arid environment. But, it'll still print really well. If you're looking for really tight filament diameter tolerances, a week or even less could change the diameter .001 or more if there is moisture in the air. I've used PLA that has been exposed to air for a few months and it's been fine, but with small issues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the filament has absorbed too much moisture, you'll typically hear popping coming from the hot extruder as the water is burned off at the nozzle. Sometimes steam comes out of the nozzle when printing as well with &quot;wet&quot; filament. Usually, you can still get great results even if it has absorbed moisture. If the filament diameter has been affected significantly, (if it jams, or the water keeps the plastic too cool when it's coming off the nozzle) you can dry it out in an oven for a few hours like @trish suggested. I keep my filaments in a plastic bag with desiccant inside a big storage bin. Probably overkill but my water softener is in the same room and introduces moisture to the air, and my a/c blows right at the setup.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Dust is probably worse because it can accumulate much faster and cause jams.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;source and reading&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.fusion3design.com/the-importance-of-properly-storing-your-3d-printing-filament/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.fusion3design.com/the-importance-of-properly-storing-your-3d-printing-filament/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11203" LastActivityDate="2018-11-28T06:15:04.220" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7519" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7523" CreationDate="2018-11-28T12:27:42.440" Score="5" ViewCount="589" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I just got a Da-Vinci 3-in-1 Junior Pro 3D Printer, and was excited to start printing my first model.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I open my .STL File in the XYZWare that comes with the printer, and click print, it says that the cartridge inserted into my printer in not genuine, and that it won't print until I order a genuine cartridge. What is interesting is that the cartridge loaded into this printer came with the printer itself, so it is genuine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there something I am doing wrong? Here is a picture of the cartridge in my printer --&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cMo0l.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cMo0l.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;This is how the cartridge is sitting inside the printer housing&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A Google search about this issue doesn't come up with any results that are of any use to me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1722" LastActivityDate="2018-12-01T04:04:48.453" Title="Printing refusing to print, citing non-genuine cartridges?" Tags="|software|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7520" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7519" CreationDate="2018-11-28T12:38:42.307" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;A &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.nl/search?q=Da-Vinci+3-in-1+Junior+Pro+3D+does+not+recognise+genuine+cartridge&amp;amp;rlz=1C1GCEA_en&amp;amp;oq=Da-Vinci+3-in-1+Junior+Pro+3D+does+not+recognise+genuine+cartridge&amp;amp;aqs=chrome..69i57.13982j0j7&amp;amp;sourceid=chrome&amp;amp;ie=UTF-8&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;quick search on the internet&lt;/a&gt; showed that your experiences are shared by others.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Apparently, it has something to do with a faulty chip or the software.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.3dhubs.com/talk/t/xyzprinting-aio-filament-cartridge-not-being-detected/4340&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;this thread&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had the same thing, the cop on the underside of the cartridge wasn’t&#xA;programmed properly, if you have the latest firmware update and it&#xA;still doesn’t work contact the seller and they should send you a&#xA;replacement chip&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had this happen 2x. It ended up being that I had xyzware open.&#xA;Xyzware needs to restart in order to detect the new serial number of&#xA;the filament.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could ask for support from your supplier or restart the XYZ software.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could also &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.instructables.com/id/XYZ-Da-Vinci-Junior-jr-NFC-Tag-Filament-Reset-Hack/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;hack&lt;/a&gt; the NFC chip that is inside the spool. (&lt;strong&gt;DISCLAIMER&lt;/strong&gt;: &lt;em&gt;Do it at your own risk&lt;/em&gt;!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:29:41.667" LastActivityDate="2018-11-28T12:38:42.307" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7521" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="107" CreationDate="2018-11-28T13:53:34.650" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I normally deburr with a deburring tool:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2klww.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2klww.png&quot; alt=&quot;deburring tool&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then I file if needed, then I hit it with a scotch brite pad:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XAfxO.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XAfxO.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;scotch brite pad&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And then I give it a quick pass with a heat gun to darken all the areas that have turned lighter from the abrasion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Video showing heat gun (but not scotch brite): &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0Aj9WCabPgw&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0Aj9WCabPgw&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4922" LastEditorUserId="4922" LastEditDate="2018-11-28T17:37:00.370" LastActivityDate="2018-11-28T17:37:00.370" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7522" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-11-28T14:48:12.013" Score="0" ViewCount="1242" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an Anet A8 using the Marlin 1.1.8 Firmware.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are two (very much related) things that bother me: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;code&gt;G00 Z0&lt;/code&gt; (after auto home from printer menu which places the nozzle at Z10.09 according to my settings) goes to Z5. &lt;code&gt;G00 Z-5&lt;/code&gt; brings the nozzle down to the bed but I cannot see any offset like 5&amp;nbsp;mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In Ultimaker Cura I use the jog buttons (like I always do when leveling the bed) but every time I do this it seems that a Z movement of -5 is added. So I press jog distance 10 to the right. The nozzle goes to the right &lt;strong&gt;AND&lt;/strong&gt; up 5&amp;nbsp;mm. Same with all other jogs. If I do X movements from the printer menu directly, the printer behaves correctly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What's new is that whenever I connect or disconnect Ultimaker Cura, the display shows Z-4.99 on the display. I went through all settings even the Marlin &lt;code&gt;configuration.h&lt;/code&gt; to check where I could change this but didn't find it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am using a sensor as limit switch which pysical distance to the bed is 7.51 mm. M503 tells me that there was an offset (M206) of Z of 5. So I sent M206 Z0. In my firmware (configuration.h) the Z_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER is set to 0 ... hmmm, sounds incorrect to me. other z offsets I cannot see being different from 0.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13616" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2019-04-14T18:39:27.550" LastActivityDate="2019-04-14T21:43:28.543" Title="Z-axis of Anet A8 always moves additional 5 mm upwards when moving X and Y-axis in Ultimaker Cura" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|anet-a8|troubleshooting|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7523" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7519" CreationDate="2018-11-28T15:45:56.207" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I managed to troubleshoot my printer's dilemma, rather quickly I might add.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It turns out that the printer's firmware that was shipped with the printer was too old for XYZWare to use. My theory was that the firmware was trying to use a sensor that wasn't on the printer to begin with, and therefore was throwing out the issue of non-genuine cartridges.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I updated the firmware on the Printer, and know it works just fine without any hitch!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1722" LastActivityDate="2018-11-28T15:45:56.207" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7524" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7525" CreationDate="2018-11-28T21:08:53.260" Score="4" ViewCount="315" Body="&lt;p&gt;I thought as a fun project to make my own 3D printer out of a normal printer parts + some parts out of old CD-ROM drives that are lying around. The printer of my choice is an HP PSC 1315 one.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aNHM2m.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aNHM2m.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;HP PSC 1315 All-in-One Inkjet Printer&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I have these questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Does this printer users stepper motors or is using a combination of DC ones and some sort of position sensor?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;What kind of electronics and firmware I can use for this type of builds?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13623" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-11-29T10:26:46.413" LastActivityDate="2018-11-29T16:05:20.463" Title="3D printer out of normal printer (HP PSC 1315)" Tags="|diy-3d-printer|printer-building|e-waste|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7525" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7524" CreationDate="2018-11-28T23:56:02.840" Score="5" Body="&lt;h1&gt;No, Printers are not good sources&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Common printers contain at best one stepper motor &lt;strong&gt;in the scanner&lt;/strong&gt;, and it is usually too weak for use as an X or Y stepper, but for a very slow printer they might be useable, especially if you could source 2 or 4 of the same type.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main motors in the printer are almost universally DC motors that get their turning signal as a voltage from the main board, which again uses positional information from an encoder strip/disk. Using both of these to make a 3D printer is usually not feasible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, they usually have good rails (sadly often of non-standard diameter) and might be salvaged for a decent optical sensor. See also &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dPhPP42CgY8&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Thomas Sanladerer's video&lt;/a&gt; about this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:29:41.667" LastActivityDate="2018-11-29T09:33:41.890" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7526" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7524" CreationDate="2018-11-29T01:28:11.107" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;I'm in the process of making a printer out of DVD/CD drives. I haven't progressed particularly far (I have the stepper drivers and obtained three (non-identical) CD/DVD drives last night for 100 baht), but I can state what I know to date, and then update as I go along.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Note: I'm not using any recycled printer parts, so this answer skirts &lt;em&gt;that&lt;/em&gt; issue entirely.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Firstly, there are a number of resources out there, which I have attempted to consolidate here, &lt;a href=&quot;https://gr33nonline.wordpress.com/2018/10/23/something-from-nothing/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Something for nothing&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The principle recycled printer that most searches seem to throw up is the E-waste printer by Miquel Lloveras, &lt;a href=&quot;https://twitter.com/mikel_llc&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;@mikel_llc&lt;/a&gt;, see &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.instructables.com/id/eWaste-60-3DPrinter/?ALLSTEPS&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;EWaste 60$ 3DPrinter by mikelllc in 3D-Printing&lt;/a&gt;. However, the blueprints are missing and the Instructable's guide is a bit sketchy at best. I am currently in communication with the designer on Twitter, and  hopefully will obtain more details at a later date.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A far better Instructables guide is &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.instructables.com/id/Complete-newbie-step-by-step-3D-printer-with-all-p/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Complete Newbie Step by Step, 3D Printer With All Parts Lists&lt;/a&gt;. Very in-depth and informative indeed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, IMHO, the best guides that I found (and decided to follow) have been by &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCZDA1kA3y3EIg25BpcHSpwQ&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Tinkernut&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCJcjk44Wjpxf6yX5_XtCqAA&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Electronic Grenade&lt;/a&gt;. In particular:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Electronic Grenade based on Tinkernut's printer, this really does seem to be the easiest printer to make, although it does employ the use of a 3D pen in place of a &quot;real&quot; extruder/hotend&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1il-3_FJtA8&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;How I Built A 3d Printer From Cd Drives&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3p8BP7B7Pmw&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Make a 3D Printer From Cd Drives || Part 1&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sSEPcFAYovI&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Make a 3D Printer From Cd Drives || Part 2&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tinkernut's videos for 3D Printer and the CNC machine that it is based off:&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Playlist: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/playlist?annotation_id=annotation_1027946027&amp;amp;feature=iv&amp;amp;list=PLlg8lN4r9qWiAOUi3TW3CUr0LOI3S0zpZ&amp;amp;src_vid=anIy6eb1fW0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Arduino CD-Rom 3D printer &amp;amp; CNC&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=anIy6eb1fW0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;How To Make A Cheap 3D Printer&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RFo5MKSrM-k&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Hack old CD-ROMs into a CNC Machine - Part 1: The Hardware&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2xMfkTrx_0U&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Hack old CD-ROM's into a CNC Machine - Part 2: The Software&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These printers require no laser cut frames, and apart from the three CD/DVD drives, you only seem to need:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 x Arduino Uno&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;3 x A3967 stepper drivers&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;18 x Brass Motherboard standoffs and nuts&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 x Resistor (16 kΩ or 22 kΩ) or 50-100 kΩ trim pot&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 x Transistor 2n2222 or 2n3904&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 x PC power supply &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 x 3D Pen (which may or may not require pulling apart and hacking a bit - it is up to you)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Software wise, these printers use:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://russemotto.com/xloader/XLoader.zip&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Xloader&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/zapmaker/GrblHoming/releases/download/v3.6.1/GrblController-3.6.1.7z&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;GrblController-3.6.1.7z&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://raw.githubusercontent.com/grbl/grbl-builds/master/builds/grbl_v0_8c_atmega328p_16mhz_9600.hex&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Grbl v0.8c Atmega328p 16mhz 9600baud&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously, with a little tinkering and calibration, you could use the standard Arduino Mega2560 and RAMPS1.4 setup, and your preferred firmware (i.e. Marlin, Repetitier, etc.).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is the A3967 stepper driver&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8dXP8.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;A3967 stepper driver&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8dXP8.png&quot; alt=&quot;A3967 stepper driver&quot; title=&quot;A3967 stepper driver&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;A note on the motors&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Apparently, some CD/DVD drives use DC motors rather than stepper motors, possibly in conjunction with endstops. While it is possible to use these types of drives, it seems much easier to employ the stepper motor type only.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It is possible that some of the CD/DVD drives which employ steppers also have endstops, and it is a good idea to salvage these endstops, when pulling the unit apart. However, in the Tinkernut and Electronic Grenade models these aren't required, although they could be added later, I guess.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;To make life easy on yourself, try to get identical CD/DVD drives. Whilst a number of brands share common design/components and you may get lucky when using/opening different brands of drive and find the same parts, if you actually hunt around and get three or four drives of exactly the same make and model, things will be simpler (not amazingly so, but simpler and more consistent, nevertheless)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4762" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2018-11-29T10:46:57.933" LastActivityDate="2018-11-29T10:46:57.933" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7527" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7529" CreationDate="2018-11-29T04:33:33.650" Score="4" ViewCount="963" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;TL;DR:&lt;/strong&gt; I'm looking to change the steps per mm but I'm not sure what to set it to. Do I decide on a temperature and change the rate based on the percentage for that temp? Or is there a more general setting I can put it to? Or is there a different underlying problem here?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm running into an issue with my Ender 3 where when I print PLA at different temperatures I'm getting different extrusion rates. I've done the test where marking it at 120&amp;nbsp;mm and then extruding using PronterFace 100&amp;nbsp;mm and measuring the distance and this is my results. I did two tests of each to confirm results&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;185&amp;nbsp;°C 80&amp;nbsp;mm left = 60&amp;nbsp;% under extrusion&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;200&amp;nbsp;°C 31&amp;nbsp;mm Left = 11&amp;nbsp;% Under Extrusion&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;210&amp;nbsp;°C 32&amp;nbsp;mm Left = 12&amp;nbsp;% Under Extrusion&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;220&amp;nbsp;°C 28&amp;nbsp;mm Left = 8&amp;nbsp;% Under Extrusion&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;230&amp;nbsp;°C 25&amp;nbsp;mm Left = 5&amp;nbsp;% Under Extrusion&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I feed 100&amp;nbsp;mm through the Bowden tube without the filament going through the hot end I get exactly 20&amp;nbsp;mm left meaning:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;0% under Extrusion&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;echo: Steps per unit:&#xA;echo: M92 X80.00 Y80.00 Z400.00 E93.00&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have been having this problem since I started. I normally print at 210&amp;nbsp;°C at 50&amp;nbsp;mm/s with a flow rate of 103&amp;nbsp;% which seems to work well for most prints but on flat walls on prints it under extrudes in the same spot each time it comes around to that point.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Steps I have taken so far:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Different PLA filaments. All perform the same&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Replaced the nozzle with a new one&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Checked all fittings with the bowen tube system&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Printed a spring spacer to make the spring tighter on the extruder gear&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Changed the V&lt;sub&gt;ref&lt;/sub&gt; from 0.75 to 1 for the extruder stepper&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason I changed the V&lt;sub&gt;ref&lt;/sub&gt; on the extruder stepper is because the system would click back when printing as if the pressure was too great in the tube. Changing this has helped some of the under extrusion a bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So. depending on the temperature, it's harder or easier to push the filament by hand through the hot end. Maybe I need a better hot end?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mTbkn.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Examples&lt;/a&gt;: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My test print to replicate the issue. The ripple bit is brittle and under extruded.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/udUdz.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Test print - Image#1&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/udUdz.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Test print - Image#1&quot; title=&quot;Test print - Image#1&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/br6vA.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Test print - Image#2&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/br6vA.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Test print - Image#2&quot; title=&quot;Test print - Image#2&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This was a Prototype piece for an up-sized print I was planning. After going around it under extrudes at the same point each time 210&amp;nbsp;°C&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lPySW.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Prototype piece&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lPySW.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Prototype piece&quot; title=&quot;Prototype piece&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most of the print is fine just some parts are different. This is an inner wall.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qJNnr.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Inner wall&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qJNnr.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Inner wall&quot; title=&quot;Inner wall&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://imgur.com/4THD6eY&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Heat towers&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13625" LastEditorUserId="13625" LastEditDate="2018-11-29T16:26:36.043" LastActivityDate="2018-12-10T07:10:30.573" Title="Different lengths of filament is extruded with different temperatures" Tags="|extrusion|hotend|creality-ender-3|stepper-driver|troubleshooting|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7529" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7527" CreationDate="2018-11-29T07:45:07.127" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Obviously, your extrusion process is troubled by a lot of pressure. This can be seen from the extensive experiment you conducted with PLA extrusion at different temperatures. Please do note that 230 &amp;deg;C is considered pretty high for PLA! Usually it should be in the range of &lt;a href=&quot;https://rigid.ink/blogs/news/3d-printing-basics-how-to-get-the-best-results-with-pla-filament&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;185 - 205 &amp;deg;C&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;In general, PLA filament settings have an optimal printing PLA&#xA;  temperature range from about 185C to about 205C. If you’re using&#xA;  1.75mm as opposed to thicker 2.85mm (or 3.00mm) your optimal print will be closer to the lower end of this PLA filament temperature&#xA;  range.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The temperature dependency of filament diameter is explained that small diameter filament warms up way faster in the heating zone of the hotend than large diameter filament as the heat travels less far to the filament core. Basically, with 1.75 mm filament you should be able to print at 195 &amp;deg;C. The pressure that the filament exerts on the hotend and extruder is clearly too much and leads to skipped steps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;strongly discouraged&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; to create a function of steps per millimeter (or an over-extrusion by specifying a more than 100% flow modifier). This is a mechanical issue that needs to be fixed by addressing the hardware problem. Usually this is done by:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;fixing the extruder; &#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;is it skipping steps? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;does the filament tension get too high that it skips back pass the extruder gear?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;does increase the stepper current work?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;fixing the Bowden tube;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;is it clean?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;is there too much friction?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;are there kinks?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;fixing the hotend;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;is the temperature that is reported the correct one? (thermistor problem?)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;is the heat conducting properly to the nozzle?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;is there a tolerance issue in the hotend/heatbreak?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;is the coldend properly cooled?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A few of these you already explored, others you have not. Unfortunately, you have to do a little more troubleshooting the get to the bottom of the actual problem that is causing this pressure preventing the extruder to extrude the proper commanded length.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2018-11-29T07:45:07.127" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7531" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7524" CreationDate="2018-11-29T12:50:34.677" Score="4" Body="&lt;h3&gt;&amp;quot;Yes&amp;quot; you can, but &amp;quot;No&amp;quot; it is not a good idea.&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A colleague of me is building a Anet A8 clone from salvaged rods from a bunch of printers he had. The rods are 9 mm in diameter for which you cannot find affordable linear bearings. We printed bearing blocks from PLA with integrated glide surfaces to solve that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Furthermore, practically nothing of interested can be obtained from a 2D printer/scanner. The steppers are too weak, the belts too flimsy, and the electronics are not useable. Only on optical sensor (used as an endstop), but these literally only cost about $0.40 (then you get the whole module including the cable). Also, linear rods of good quality are best obtained locally from a local (web) supplier, there are mixed experienced with those found on cheap internet auction sites.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Considering the amount of parts that can be salvaged from a 2D printer/scanner, and the part you actually need to order to complete the build, you better spend a few extra bucks and order all parts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:29:41.667" LastActivityDate="2018-11-29T12:50:34.677" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7532" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7524" CreationDate="2018-11-29T16:05:20.463" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You need not a &quot;modern&quot; inkjet printer, but an antique flatbed 2-D printer.  These were the state-of-the art in the 1980s, and drove the print head (a felt pen clamped into a mount) in X &amp;amp; Y over the printable area.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;You'd still need to hang the whole thing on some Z-drive, of course. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See info at the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.hpmuseum.net/display_item.php?hw=82&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;HP museum&lt;/a&gt;,  or buy one on &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.ebay.com/itm/HP-7470A-Desktop-Pen-Plotter-2-pen-A-size-HPIB-GPIB-/113379622891&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;eBay&lt;/a&gt; (Disclaimer: I just searched for that. I do not know the seller) .&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2191" LastActivityDate="2018-11-29T16:05:20.463" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7533" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-11-29T16:08:20.250" Score="1" ViewCount="483" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've recently purchased an Ender 3 and have had great success with some Cura settings found on a YouTube Tutorial at 0.2 mm resolution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So then I noticed that there were default settings in Cura for the Ender 3. Except printing at 0.2 mm it selects a 20 % infill, and when choosing 0.1 mm it changed the infill to 10 %.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I changed infill to 20 % and attempted to print this but there were gaps in the bottom layer and it won't stick to the bed. Is there anything else I need to change in the process?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The shape is essentially a cube with a circular hole in the middle, sliced in half.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13632" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-07-17T12:53:56.063" LastActivityDate="2020-12-17T12:55:04.083" Title="Why does infill percentage stop the print from sticking to the bed?" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|infill|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7534" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7494" CreationDate="2018-11-29T18:18:37.890" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.instructables.com/id/Model-Making-From-ABS-to-Ceramic-and-Wood/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;step-by-step instructions on Instructables&lt;/a&gt; specific to 3D-printed parts. In summary:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sand and brush with acetone for a smooth finish (I guess the acetone vapour treatment would work as well.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Prime with plastic primer&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Spray-paint with a satin, nutmeg-coloured base coat&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Add grain with darker, acrylic paint using a fine brush&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13100" LastActivityDate="2018-11-29T18:18:37.890" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7535" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7537" CreationDate="2018-11-29T18:34:58.660" Score="2" ViewCount="343" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have designed this in Blender:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ucC7j.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ucC7j.png&quot; alt=&quot;Screenshot&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bottom is a regular n-gon with 0.8mm in height. In Slic3r, I see that the bottom-most layer is not solid:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5QkC7.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5QkC7.png&quot; alt=&quot;Screenshot&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The green parts (of the first image) are going into that layer, because I wanted to ensure that I don't have air between the bottom and the green parts. Unfortunately they become printed non-solid / empty. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This does not only take extra time for printing, it's also not what I want. What seems to be the bottom here is in fact the top of something and I want it to be a flat surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I tell Slic3r to recognize overlapping items and generate them in a solid way?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have already set the infill to 100%, but that doesn't change anything. The Boolean modifier of Blender is also not very helpful. It creates topologies with gaps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1570" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2020-07-13T11:20:14.213" LastActivityDate="2020-07-13T11:20:14.213" Title="Why are my lowest layers not solid?" Tags="|slic3r|blender|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7536" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7535" CreationDate="2018-11-29T20:10:34.063" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Blender is not a preferred program to model solids, it is great though for many other visualizations. Apparently, the green parts are not solid models in your original Blender design, they are most probably surfaces, when you create an STL, the model is not solid, it contains surfaces. All this causes problems for your slicer (the slicer ignores the surfaces and makes an empty hole instead, hence the sliced image). You should look into the options, manuals or fora of Blender to create solid models. Otherwise, use a proper 3D modelling tool for creating solid models.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2018-11-29T20:10:34.063" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7537" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7535" CreationDate="2018-11-29T20:21:38.563" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I printed the thing for some layers to see what the printer actually does:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mwBgB.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mwBgB.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Inner ring&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are clearly too many retractions and unretractions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This can be seen in advance by letting Slic3r show the retractions and unretractions. &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8Vo55.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8Vo55.png&quot; alt=&quot;Slic3r screenshots&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fDdn7.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fDdn7.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Green items&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the green &quot;walls&quot;, it became clear that it prints them exactly onto the empty space, so in fact the seem to be floating. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That made it obvious to me: the normals were pointing into the wrong direction. Therefore, Slic3r seems to have interpreted the material side of the green parts inside out. I had the same issue on some other parts as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I went to Blender, selected the object(s), chose edit mode and found a function called &quot;Recalculate normals&quot;. Since then, the bottom layer is solid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also printing time is reduced by half an hour.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kDh7y.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kDh7y.png&quot; alt=&quot;Result after recalculating the normals&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1570" LastActivityDate="2018-11-29T20:21:38.563" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7538" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5544" CreationDate="2018-11-29T21:23:08.340" Score="5" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;a good way to convert a 3D print file like STL to STEP a useable file format for plastic injection molding companies&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know much about plastic injection molding companies, but I do manipulate a lot STEP, STL files and I do know that it is possible to achieve &lt;em&gt;&quot;a good way to convert […] STL to STEP file format […]&quot;&lt;/em&gt;. For the record, the manufacturing process isn't recorded within these files format (at least not yet) so you don't have to specify the final use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, this is a delicate process which isn't easy for beginners in CAD engineering.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As said before, the &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/STL_(file_format)&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;STL&lt;/a&gt; files is a tessellation of a surface with triangles, while &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/ISO_10303-21&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;STEP&lt;/a&gt; defines precisely the surface with curves. It's basically the difference between &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Raster_graphics&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;raster graphics&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vector_graphics&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;vector graphics&lt;/a&gt;: most fully automatic reconversions programs (such as Inkscape in case of images), would create something quite approximate to the real shape. Manual programs would require time and knowledge of the needed tools (Inkscape can do it too, in case of images). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the record, asking for a STEP file to be a STL file is as easy as transforming a vector graphic to a raster graphic, it's a one-click transformation. What you are asking, the reversed, is complicated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What will be done if you import a STL file to a standard CAD program, it will consider each triangle as a defined unique surface, and in most cases, the standard CAD program will have a lot of difficulties to handle the STL. It could then export it to a STEP file, but this will make a huge, incredibly heavy file difficult to handle (I've seen STEP files over 300&amp;nbsp;MB while the STL was less than 10&amp;nbsp;MB).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;strong&gt;good way&lt;/strong&gt; to do so, is to go through a reverse engineering program that handles better these troubles. I don't know any being free, and they all require extensive experience, expansive licenses and a bunch of time generally. For instance, I know that &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Se2GUfs_TI8&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Catia&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E8RDOfXEh-o&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;SpaceClaim&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BT1vj4l155E&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;3-Matic&lt;/a&gt; are programs that work very well for your issue, but they are both very far from affordable or easy to handle if you aren't a CAD designer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another &lt;strong&gt;bad way&lt;/strong&gt; would be to pass through a 100% automatic reconstruction/conversion to STEP, but it would make something not exactly accurate to the original part, and may not be of any use depending of your application.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My best advice for this would be to find someone or some enterprise that can practice the &lt;strong&gt;good way&lt;/strong&gt; from your STL to have the STEP file you want. You should also very much specify for what use your file is, because as a design engineer I wouldn't generate the same STEP file depending of the use of each surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope this answer isn't too much a disappointment for you, I know it won't solve your problem but it can help you understand why it is such a hard problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4183" LastEditorUserId="4183" LastEditDate="2018-12-01T12:08:03.077" LastActivityDate="2018-12-01T12:08:03.077" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7539" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7450" CreationDate="2018-11-29T21:46:39.033" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I see several answers to that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A lot of persons say &lt;em&gt;3d printing&lt;/em&gt; while they really mean &lt;em&gt;additive manufacturing&lt;/em&gt;. For them, the machine got a 3d part out of raw material as a 2d printer got them images out of sheets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some persons think that &lt;em&gt;3d printing&lt;/em&gt; refers to lowpriced polymers additive manufacturing machines while &lt;em&gt;additive manufacturing&lt;/em&gt; refers to industrial, expansive equipment like the so-called &quot;DMLS&quot;or &quot;SLM&quot;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Others persons say that additive manufacturing processes that use 2d-printers heads (ink injectors, such as HP additive manufacturing machines) should be called &lt;em&gt;3d printers&lt;/em&gt; and &lt;em&gt;3d printing&lt;/em&gt; because it's so similar to 2d printers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I consider that &quot;3d printer&quot; should be avoided in general, because it is way too vague and referring to way too much different things. But it is up to anyone using these words, I just think that a serious person wouldn't use &quot;3d printer&quot; given all the mismatch that it could generate. I think we should use the exact process' name instead (like FDM for low-priced additive manufacturing polymer machines), or if you refer to the overall technology, use &lt;em&gt;additive manufacturing&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4183" LastActivityDate="2018-11-29T21:46:39.033" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7540" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7542" CreationDate="2018-11-29T23:39:32.877" Score="5" ViewCount="7202" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have encountered a problem where the print lines are not joining together, when I remove it from the plate it turns into a stringy mess.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VmMAE.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VmMAE.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GugS0.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GugS0.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am not sure what the problem is because I print out models that have successfully come out with properly joined lines previously, but now are failing. I am using the same nozzle and material that I have been using in past prints.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am using the Ender 3 with Bltouch running Marlin 1.1.9. The settings I use are as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Material - PLA&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Nozzle - 210&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bed - 60&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Speed - 60&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;First Layer Speed - 30&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Line Width - 0.4&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have included some higher quality photos as requested, between the original post and this edit I added an &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07DDGGN92/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;psc=1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;aluminium&lt;/a&gt; Bowden extruder and a new &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07DL24HDY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;psc=1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;nozzle&lt;/a&gt; but the problem still persists. I have also re-tensioned the x-axis belt and re-flashed Marlin to the printer in case that had somehow corrupted. I have also tried increasing the flow rate in Cura but I had to increase to 130% for there to be any noticeable effect (i was able to print a slightly better model but it still has zero integrity). I also tried adjusting the z-axis height tuning but within a few steps up or down it would go from too close to the bed with not enough material coming out, to a decent height but with the original problem.&#xA;I also cleaned out the hot end.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NPgpG.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NPgpG.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aWAbm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aWAbm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jVFfh.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jVFfh.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ATwEB.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ATwEB.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kEtdz.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kEtdz.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13327" LastEditorUserId="13327" LastEditDate="2018-12-11T01:46:32.410" LastActivityDate="2019-11-12T21:02:19.223" Title="Print Lines Aren't Joining Together" Tags="|print-quality|extrusion|creality-ender-3|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7541" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-11-30T02:41:03.770" Score="4" ViewCount="1109" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am having an issue where several prints I downloaded from thingiverse causing my printer to freeze in the first minute of the print. The print head stops, pushes out a small amount of PLA and then does nothing. The control board continues to show the print progress bar continuing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One thing that could be possible is I am using the wrong G-code flavor. I am running Cura 3.4.1 and I set the printer to use RepRap. I also tried Marlin. Which one of those is right for my printer? Could it be something else?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My MonoPrice printer firmware version is v35.110.2. The item I tried to print has the gcode from this page. &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2221657&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2221657&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13636" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-12-10T06:16:51.590" LastActivityDate="2019-12-10T06:16:51.590" Title="Monoprice Select Mini v2 - Some Prints Freeze" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|monoprice-select-mini|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7542" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7540" CreationDate="2018-11-30T08:06:29.273" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is hard to tell from the quality of the picture you added, but this appears to be an example of either an incorrect height setting for your nozzle to touch trigger point (too large) or an under-extrusion problem that could be related to incorrect filament diameter setting, nozzle blockage, too high speed, slipping extruder gear, too less spring force on the extruder roller, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as can be seen from the second picture, the filament is not properly squished to the build plate, so I expect that you gain from setting a smaller nozzle to sensor trigger point distance. This can be done with the &lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#M851:_Set_Z-Probe_Offset&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;code&gt;M851&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/a&gt; command.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Updated after posting high quality pictures:&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;From the pictures you can see that there is an extrusion problem. Your first layer brim starts with too less material, but seems to make adjoining lines in the brim because it is squished a little too much (nozzle is too close to the build plate). It is advised to &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6483/how-do-i-calibrate-the-extruder-of-my-printer&quot;&gt;calibrate the extruder&lt;/a&gt;. The lower walls look fine, these are printed at low speed, the infill however looks very weak, this is probably because of a high printing speed and high temperature. In order to solve the problem you need to lower the speeds, lower the hot end temperature to 200 &amp;deg;C, increase part cooling flow and check and calibrate the whole extruder system/path.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-12-26T07:13:38.270" LastActivityDate="2018-12-26T07:13:38.270" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7543" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-11-30T13:46:06.583" Score="2" ViewCount="2175" Body="&lt;p&gt;Because I do not own a 3d printer I am searching a way to build an affordable 3d printer. But paying a 200Euros for one seems too much for me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So in my search for affordable 3d printer I thought to build one out of legos (for example &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.instructables.com/id/LEGO-3d-Printer/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; one) that I can find in &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&amp;amp;_trksid=m570.l1313&amp;amp;_nkw=Bulk%20Lego%20&amp;amp;_sacat=0&amp;amp;LH_TitleDesc=0&amp;amp;_osacat=0&amp;amp;_odkw=Lego&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;bulk&lt;/a&gt; at reasonable price.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for rods I can use out of old printers and skim them down to 8mm at a machine shop (at worst case). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But as for motors DC ones are easier to find/scavage that stepper ones but:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is it possible to build a 3d printer that uses DC motors instead of stepper ones and what kind of firmware is needed?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13623" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2018-11-30T21:20:22.843" LastActivityDate="2018-12-03T02:44:22.103" Title="Building a cheap 3d printer with DC Motors?" Tags="|diy-3d-printer|printer-building|e-waste|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7544" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7541" CreationDate="2018-11-30T14:45:11.893" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The source of the files (thingiverse) is irrelevant -- what matters is what the slicing software creates for gcode.  Since you're using Cura,go to &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.mpselectmini.com/slicers/cura&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;monoprice&lt;/a&gt; for their advice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a number of Cura + monoprice instructional vids on youtube as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;not to mention several reddit channels. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2191" LastActivityDate="2018-11-30T14:45:11.893" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7545" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7543" CreationDate="2018-11-30T14:47:12.083" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;To use DC-motors instead of stepper motors, you would need to have some sort of encoder that tells the controlling machine where the printhead has moved. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the &lt;a href=&quot;https://forum.arduino.cc/index.php?topic=404680.0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;arduino Forums&lt;/a&gt; they have discussed the problems and difficulties. The main problem is, that currently, there is little firmware for Arduino or similar chips that can do this. Another big problem is, that such a machine might need a different type of G-code, unless well done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That is not to say that there is no firmware that does control DC motors via an encoder. Printers do so since ages. But to reverse engineer printer firmware is really really hard. It took a pair of hackers the better part of a half year to dissect the printer &amp;amp; Fax firmware for one printer, and they had mainly looked to dissect the fax protocol and had not looked at all at the motor control&lt;sup&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qLCE8spVX9Q&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Defcon talk about it&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Luckily, as the &lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,659992&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;RepRap&lt;/a&gt; tells though, somebody did hack together a DC motor control: Miguel Sanchez has a &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/misan/dcservo&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;GitHub&lt;/a&gt; about it. You DO need proper encoders though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2018-11-30T14:55:23.580" LastActivityDate="2018-11-30T14:55:23.580" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7546" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7446" CreationDate="2018-11-30T17:31:38.540" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can't provide the end answer, but if you already have the material, you should be able to measure this yourself quite simply.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Measure and cut a sample of filament, and weigh it. For example, a 10 meter length with a 1.75 mm diameter will have a volume of:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;v = pi * r&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; * l&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;v = pi * (0.175 cm/2)&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; * 1000 cm&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;v = 24.05 cm&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Density is mass divided by volume. If your sample weighs 18 g, this would be&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;d = m / v&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;d = 18.0 g / 24.05 cm&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;d = 0.748 g/cm&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that the accuracy of this measurement will depend on the accuracy and precision of your measurements. A household kitchen scale might not be good enough for such small weights. In order to get a good weight measurement, you may need to use a much longer (and heavier) sample of filament.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5704" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-12-02T22:25:49.010" LastActivityDate="2018-12-02T22:25:49.010" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7547" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7217" CreationDate="2018-11-30T23:08:18.990" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;For your information, this problem has occurred for me with Cura 3.6.0 (yesterday and 2 days ago)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I thought the problem was occurring with Marlin since 1.8.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My Marlin version is 1.3 (... just discover that because of that issue!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As my printer works perfectly with 1.3, I'd prefer not to upgrade.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had the 'click to resume' problem twice. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've printed tons of ABS models without problem, two days ago, I've printed PLA models and had this issue. (70&amp;nbsp;°C 200&amp;nbsp;°C).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For sure if the problem occurs again, I'll upgrade to Marlin 1.9 (or even 2.0 even if still in beta) because it seems that you &lt;em&gt;have&lt;/em&gt; found the problem and already solved it; I was surprised to read that it was fixed in Cura 3.6 since I had the problem with that version.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My printer is a Tevo Tarentula (modified, I've removed the pseudo bed leveling options because I prefer to level manually (no z move while printing)).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One more information is that in parallel, I've decided to print the first layer at a very low speed (adhesion problems).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've changed from 30&amp;nbsp;mm/s (ABS with big adhesion problems) to 10&amp;nbsp;mm/s with PLA + Cura 3.6 and went into this bug (yes one could argue that I may print faster etc., but that's not the point here). Maybe I have the problem because I'm printing the 1st layer at a this slow speed (thus making the full buffer problem more critical).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bug does not occur each time I print, even when printing the same model with same parameters...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;@HuguesDug reported the &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/Ultimaker/Cura/issues/3994&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;same problem 14 days ago&lt;/a&gt; and&#xA;@Leeb answered him that running with Marlin 1.9 solved the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13642" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-12-01T14:31:20.863" LastActivityDate="2018-12-01T14:31:20.863" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7554" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-12-01T11:46:53.337" Score="1" ViewCount="22" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm a complete newby&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Monoprice maker select v.2&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Followed directions home all turn off machine level bed&#xA;Turn on&#xA;Z position fast up an inch&#xA;Preheat pla&#xA;Print&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then it goes back down but not to the bed above it Pla doesn't stick&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why does it not go back to where I put it when I did the leveling?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13651" LastActivityDate="2018-12-01T11:46:53.337" Title="Not starting printing on bed" Tags="|adhesion|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7555" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7561" CreationDate="2018-12-01T17:38:06.567" Score="3" ViewCount="1658" Body="&lt;p&gt;I made a few models in Autodesk Inventor. When I tried to get them printed, the printer created a model smaller than the model I made in Inventor (270mm x 200mm). Is there a way to keep them from getting resized?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is the model in Inventor:&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/P7L7L.png&quot; alt=&quot;The model in Autodesk Inventor&quot;&gt;&#xA;And here is the model being visualized by the printer driver:&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XtaNN.png&quot; alt=&quot;The model being visualized by the printer driver&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13655" LastEditorUserId="13655" LastEditDate="2018-12-01T19:18:38.217" LastActivityDate="2018-12-02T19:47:14.253" Title="How do I keep the .stl files from being resized while exporting?" Tags="|cad|stl|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7556" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-12-01T17:54:11.863" Score="6" ViewCount="923" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought an Anet A6-L printer &lt;em&gt;(after some research I discovered that this is not a genuine Anet A6)&lt;/em&gt; and assembled it. The first time I plugged it in, the fan (fan 2, I believe) is the only thing that turns on. Also, the LCD screen (LCD2004 5 button display) only had 1 cord, and 1 jack for the cord to plug in on the back of the screen, but 2 openings on the motherboard. The fan turns on for around 30 seconds, then turns off. I have the anet A6 printer, with the V1-5 motherboard. I have everything else (fans, motors, hotbed, power) plugged into the right ports. I haven't plugged in the micro SD (TF) card yet, I turned it on to test it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am using a modified part that replaces the windpipe/fan duct (white) and redirects the airflow around it and inwards from a ring around the tip, but that is the only modification I have made. I have not messed with the power supply (other than wiring it in). Same with the motherboard. I tested it also without the modification for the fan duct but it still has the same problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1TO7y.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1TO7y.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Screen Top&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yFdM1.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yFdM1.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Screen bottom&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13656" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2019-08-31T08:21:42.117" LastActivityDate="2019-11-17T21:57:00.033" Title="First time assemble of Anet A6 printer. Only fan works" Tags="|diy-3d-printer|power-supply|anet-a6|fans|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7557" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7560" CreationDate="2018-12-01T19:54:54.297" Score="2" ViewCount="1618" Body="&lt;p&gt;When printing a part today on my Prusa i3 MK3, I was prompted to upgrade the firmware. I went to the website and &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.prusa3d.com/drivers/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;downloaded the firmware as a .hex file&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When reading the attached firmware upgrade instructions, it seems there's only one way: use Slic3r and connect the printer via USB. These instructions are also &lt;a href=&quot;https://manual.prusa3d.com/Guide/Upgrading+the+firmware+v1.4/66&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;available online&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, my printer is too far away from my PC and I'm printing from SD card only. Can I upgrade from SD card as well?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hopefully next week I'll get the Raspberry Pi Zero W so I can use Octoprint for printing. Does that combination support upgrading the firmware?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have tried:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://shop.prusa3d.com/forum/others-archive--f66/how-to-update-the-firmware-with-an-sd-card--t14767.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this Prusa forum post&lt;/a&gt; suggests that upgrading via SD card is not possible.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://shop.prusa3d.com/forum/others-archive--f82/octoprint-firmware-upgrades-t3460-s10.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this Prusa forum post&lt;/a&gt; mentions that there once was a way to upgrade the firmware via Octoprint, but the post is very old (last entry from January 2017)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;it's not a duplicate of &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6654/how-to-install-a-hex-firmware&quot;&gt;this 3D Printing question&lt;/a&gt;, since all solutions require a USB or serial connection.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1570" LastEditorUserId="1570" LastEditDate="2018-12-01T22:31:44.830" LastActivityDate="2018-12-01T23:53:12.483" Title="Upgrade firmware without Slic3r and USB connection?" Tags="|prusa-i3|firmware|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7558" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7556" CreationDate="2018-12-01T20:07:15.660" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;This definitely sounds like a problem with your wiring if you have a genuine Anet A6, the genuine A6 comes with a 12864 full graphic display. For sure, you are missing 1 flat ribbon cable (see below). Maybe this is causing the LCD not to light up and the SD card not functioning. As the &quot;fan 2&quot; is working, the board is powered by the power supply (this fan is using the constant power feed of the supply of the board). What you are actually describing as a boot sequence is the actual boot sequence of a printer. Once you power the printer, the fan that is cooling the cold end of the extruder should start spinning and keep spinning while the part cooling fan usually spins up but then powers down to standstill. While this is happening, the LCD should come alive and show the boot screen and finally the printer menu. If your screen is not showing any light, this &lt;strong&gt;implies that your screen is&lt;/strong&gt; either &lt;strong&gt;broken&lt;/strong&gt;, &lt;strong&gt;not powered&lt;/strong&gt; or &lt;strong&gt;wrongly connected&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could connect the printer over USB and control the printer from an external program, e.g. Pronterface, OctoPrint, Repetier-host, etc. and see if the printer works (then you know that the display is broken).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From a search on AliExpress I &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.aliexpress.com/item/2017-Upgrade-Anet-A6-Auto-Leveling-A6-L-Impressora-3D-Printer-DIY-Kit-Reprap-i3-Imprimante/32671013494.html?spm=2114.search0104.3.8.49f160994iHWj7&amp;amp;ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_1_5729911_10065_10068_319_317_10696_10084_453_454_10083_10618_10307_10821_10301_537_536_5730811_10059_10884_10887_100031_321_322_10103,searchweb201603_51,ppcSwitch_0&amp;amp;algo_expid=f57f9eef-8ebd-4819-81a6-9f38366511b1-1&amp;amp;algo_pvid=f57f9eef-8ebd-4819-81a6-9f38366511b1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;found&lt;/a&gt; that there are auto leveling printers sold with the Anet A6 branding that differ from the standard Anet A6 as written in Chinglish:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Different Auto leveling A6 and Normal A6:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;1.The auto-leveling version uses a proximity sensor to detect the aluminum print bed where the normal version of the printer uses a&#xA;  micro-switch to detect the end of travel for the Z-Axis movement&#xA;  (vertical limits).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;2.&lt;strong&gt;Auto leveling A6-L work with LCD2004 screen&lt;/strong&gt;, A6 work with LCD12864 screen&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The second remark from the quote above suggests that there is a 2004 LCD version that is only used by the Anet A6-L version (probably because they need a free pin for the auto leveling sensor). Such a display only has a single connection socket and needs to be connected to a single socket on the Anet printer board (named &quot;LCD&quot;, not &quot;J3&quot;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that &lt;strong&gt;automatic bed levelling is not magic&lt;/strong&gt;, and a little &lt;strong&gt;more complicated&lt;/strong&gt; to start with, if you order a printer without an auto bed levelling sensor, you will be able to update to one later. E.g. from &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2091529&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;It uses the &quot;LED pin&quot; which is an unused pin on the A8 (using the&#xA;  stock 5 button 2004 LCD). That is the third wire counted from below&#xA;  (where the red marker is on the cable). I simply spliced the cable and&#xA;  cut that wire. This will be the servo signal (yellow).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;If you have an Anet A6 adapted for auto levelling with a 2004 display&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the LCD does not light up, this could be caused by incorrect placement of the flat cable, be sure to use the correct socket on the printer board and take care of the orientation. Once you have checked this, and it does not work and you are in the possession of a multimeter, you could measure the voltage over the &quot;VSS&quot; and the &quot;VDD&quot; pin; also look into the voltage over the &quot;VSS&quot; and the &quot;VE&quot; (see pin layout below).&#xA;If there is power, but no light, the LCD is probably defective. You could try to hook up a computer to the board using a USB cable and use a program like Pronterface to interface with the printer to see if it works at all, the display is not required for printing (e.i. if you can access the printer over USB).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5IvGI.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5IvGI.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Typical 2004 LCD pin layout&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;If you have a genuine Anet A6&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is advised to &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;install an extra flat ribbon cable&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; and &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;check all the wires&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;, please do check for correct polarity and correct installment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please do note the the installation of the Anet A6 LCD display (see &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/6aPja8Ux2rY?t=702&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this movie&lt;/a&gt; and the screenshot from this video below) requires 2 flat ribbon cables to function properly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7RwQLm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7RwQLm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;LCD screen installation Anet A6&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FdSv3.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FdSv3.png&quot; alt=&quot;2 ribbon cables inserted in printer board&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sub&gt;&#xA;&lt;em&gt;Sidemark on fan ducts:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Both the stock and most ring type ducts are not aerodynamically designed fan ducts. The stock fan converges too much, this narrowing of the duct causes extra pressure build-up which these fans are not able to handle, so they stall, causing a reduced flow output of the fan. The (semi) circular fan ducts usually also have a design problem. The (semi) circular ones all (but one that I have seen) have the same deficiency that the main passage area does not decrease when the duct loses air through a slot/ejector; this means that the velocity in the main ring decreases after each bleed slot! Note that these fans move air and do not build up a high pressure difference that is large enough to overcome the friction of those designs.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-12-07T11:56:45.780" LastActivityDate="2018-12-07T11:56:45.780" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7559" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6654" CreationDate="2018-12-01T22:28:57.517" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Prusa i3 MK3 comes with &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.prusa3d.com/slic3r-prusa-edition/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Slic3r, Prusa Edition&lt;/a&gt;. It has a menu for flashing the firmware, which takes a HEX file as input.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/L5TEH.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/L5TEH.png&quot; alt=&quot;Slic3r screenshot&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can then select the HEX file. It will auto-detect the printer, if connected via USB.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AQ9Lk.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AQ9Lk.png&quot; alt=&quot;Screenshot firmware update details&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1570" LastActivityDate="2018-12-01T22:28:57.517" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7560" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7557" CreationDate="2018-12-01T23:53:12.483" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, you cannot update the firmware from an SD card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes you can update from a Raspberry Pi (RPi). A RPi runs a Linux distribution, when you install the correct tools you should be able to update through USB using the RPi.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For simplicity and time it would be an idea to lend a laptop for a few minutes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2018-12-01T23:53:12.483" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7561" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7555" CreationDate="2018-12-02T09:53:17.977" Score="3" Body="&lt;h1&gt;.stl Basics&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The .stl format has no inherent sense of which units you use. items are to scale to an ambiguous 1, which could be 1 meter, one millimeter, one lightyear or one inch. To a .stl, only the &lt;em&gt;relative&lt;/em&gt; sizing matters. All these faces you see are compared to a line with the length of 1-unit that is&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Slicer-Modeling Software interaction&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The most common graphic design programs export in millimeters, but some US ones just assume inches, which is a factor of 1&amp;quot;=25.4mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cura, Netfabb, and Slic3r expect that the 1-unit line is one &lt;strong&gt;millimeter&lt;/strong&gt; long - but if it is an inch instead, then the model is shrunk by 1/25.4 or to about 4% of the right size. Scaling up by 2540% one would return to the millimeter scale.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But then there are other programs that use other choices of scales. &lt;a href=&quot;https://blender.stackexchange.com/questions/7503/scale-settings-for-exporting-to-stl-for-3d-printing&quot;&gt;Blender&lt;/a&gt; for example assumes a scene is in meters by default.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Inventor&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Inventor can export .stl in a variety of scales, which all just serve as how the length of the inherent but invisible 1-unit line is drawn. The default choice is &lt;strong&gt;centimeters&lt;/strong&gt;, so a scaling factor of 1cm=10mm, which would explain the models being only 1/10th of the expected size in Slic3r. to change the scaling, follow the &lt;a href=&quot;https://knowledge.autodesk.com/support/inventor-products/learn-explore/caas/CloudHelp/cloudhelp/2014/ENU/Inventor/files/GUID-59FB702C-F37A-4DEA-ADCF-51AD8A219C9B-htm.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;manual&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;upon exporting a .stl, click &lt;code&gt;Options&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;under Units, choose &lt;code&gt;mm&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:29:41.667" LastActivityDate="2018-12-02T19:47:14.253" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7563" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7446" CreationDate="2018-12-02T19:46:56.890" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Indeed, the properties of this filament are kept rather secret, so to find out what the density is, you need to either contact the filament supplier or the manufacturer for accessing the data sheet or calculate this yourself. The answer below expands on the &quot;&lt;em&gt;calculate it yourself&lt;/em&gt;&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Density is defined as  &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$\rho = \frac{m}{V}=\frac{[kg]}{[m^3]}$&lt;/span&gt;. The use of this formula has been show in &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/7546/5740&quot;&gt;this answer&lt;/a&gt;. The drawback of that answer is that it is an approximation that relies on a uniform piece of filament that requires cutting off expensive filament and relies on assumptions rather than actual calculations. Furthermore, the weighing of a small piece of filament is much less accurate of a small piece than for a larger piece or the whole spool (for the same scale, so a decent kitchen scale might be usable when more weight is concerned). You could improve the density calculation by measuring the diameter at various sections and make a better approximation based on the average diameter, but still that would need you to unroll the spool and carefully measure a piece of filament (and cut it). The advantage of that answer is that it is far easier than my proposition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The method that is proposed here relies on a well known method to calculate the density of materials that is called hydrostatic weighing. Hydrostatic weighing uses the displacement of a fluid due to a submerged object to determine the density of the object. Any submerged object will displace the fluid surrounding it by it's own volume, as such you would need to measure the rise of the volume level to read the volume of the submerged product. This can be done accurately by using methods that include containers of known dimensions, known fluids and even an overflow method and weighing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the filament comes on a spool, you would require an identical spool to prevent removing it from the spool. But, I read that it is sold in bundles, not on spools. Without a spool would make it even easier to calculate the density as you do not have to subtract the spool weight and volume, the answer continues as if you have it on a spool. This is purely necessary so that you would not need to cut off filament or unroll the whole spool. The suggestion below let's you measure the whole spool, so weight is measured more easily as there is a lot more. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Theoretically, you could put the filament in a fluid which is known to not affect the filament properties (so not water for GEL-LAY!) in a bath of known dimensions. Once the spool and filament are completely submerged, you could measure the volume rise. If you do the same for the empty spool, you also know the volume of the spool alone. If you also are able to weigh the empty spool and the full spool (before you plunged them in the &quot;bathtub&quot;/container), you now know the volume and the weight of the filament, dividing the weight (full spool weight minus empty spool weight) by the volume (full spool submerged volume minus empty spool submerged volume) will give you the density.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$$\rho_{filament} = \frac{(m_{full\ spool}-m_{empty\ spool})}{(V_{full\ spool}-V_{empty\ spool})}$$&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;em&gt;Now let your filament dry for a long, long time! :)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-12-05T12:42:45.867" LastActivityDate="2018-12-05T12:42:45.867" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7564" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-12-02T21:41:46.783" Score="3" ViewCount="1159" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my latest 3D model, the Prusa i3 MK3 stops, heats and then continues the print. However, there's no noticeable drop in temperature. The display shows 210&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C/90&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C (nozzle/bed) as expected. I have printed the same part 3 times now and the behavior is similar. I've seen a maximum of 211&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C/90&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C and a minimum of 209&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C/89&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunatly, it seems that stopping the head seems no good idea. The nozzle is very close to the object and it seems as if either there's a bit of filament leaking, causing too much filament, or the existing filament is melting. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PAlzC.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PAlzC.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Irregularities in print&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The irregularities are always in the same XYZ positions. The print is still usable for my needs, but I'd like to understand this behavior better and find a fix, if possible. My meterial is HDGlass (PETG) and I'm printing with default settings, 20&amp;nbsp;% infill and first layer 200&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C, following layers 210&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've looked up the print quality troubleshooting guide. It looks a bit like &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/#blobs-and-zits&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;blobs and zits&lt;/a&gt;, just much less and much more subtle than in the example there. Also, the solution is not applicable, because Slic3r does not show a planned retraction in those positions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/roboter-basteln/3d-printable-parts/tree/master/Biegelehre&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;My model is available online&lt;/a&gt; and the issue appears near the large bottom layers and the large top layers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My questions are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;what is the problem called / what problem category do I have here?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;what is a potential fix?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;since the filament also extrudes at 200&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C, can I prevent the printer from stopping the movements unless the nozzle temperature drops below e.g. 207&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C, although the nominal temperature should be 210&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1570" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-02-10T23:02:07.930" LastActivityDate="2019-02-10T23:02:07.930" Title="Prevent stopping and heating in the middle of the print" Tags="|print-quality|prusa-i3|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7565" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-12-02T22:14:20.817" Score="3" ViewCount="2746" Body="&lt;p&gt;I like Tinkercad so far for it's very simple UI. (I'm new to 3D modeling and very confused by Blender and the like.) However, I'm not using it to do 3D printing just yet. For I'd like to be able to be to slap textures on the models I make and get images of that. What is the easiest beginner way to do that (for Linux OS)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternately, displaying the .obj directly in the browser with a texture would be great, too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13670" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2019-02-13T11:44:19.583" LastActivityDate="2019-02-13T11:46:35.153" Title="What is the simplest way to render an image of an obj exported from Tinkercad?" Tags="|3d-design|2d|tinkercad|linux|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7566" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2809" CreationDate="2018-12-02T23:05:14.813" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Be extremely cautious if you switch the hot end wires with the hot bed wires as StarWind0 said, only do it for a couple seconds and stop as &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;soon&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; as you've confirmed that temperature is going up. I did this on my FLSUN C Cube and it started smoking something fierce and just about lit on fire within seconds of my turning on the extruder with the wires swapped. I suggest you be extremely quick and also don't do this by a smoke detector if you attempt it: just in case. This is pretty much guaranteed to happen due to the amount of current draws the two components use being vastly different. I re-flashed my board and it still did not work, probably should have done that in reverse order, please learn from that mistake haha. I seem to have somehow burned out my heated bed mosfet (prior to switching the wires) and have the same problem that you do, I'm just going to buy another board because it's pretty cheap but for the sake of future people with this problem to solve I'd:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;check connections, especially at the screw connectors as they have a nasty habit of getting worn&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;use a multimeter in DC voltage mode, put your black (-) probe on the &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;DC&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; power negative lead, turn on the hotbed and using your red (+) probe make sure you are getting about 12V through all your relevant connections including the fuses (mine are very tiny surface mount fuses, 15a and 30a located right behind the power supply, don't know how standard that is for all printers though)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If everything checks out so far then cry a little bit&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It's probably a burned out mosfet (buggers are sensitive) but just in case, re-flash your board and hope the problem goes away&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;test the mosfet for the heated bed with your multimeter (same way you tested everything else)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I don't suggest switching wires between the extruder and the heated bed except as a last resort to make sure your bed is working, but if you have resistance readings going through the bed and wires then your bed is not likely broken and this would be an unnecessary risk. If you are going to proceed anyway then do as follows: remove extruder and heated bed wires, plug bed wires into extruder terminal, hold the power cord in your hand, turn on the extruder and as soon as the number goes up by 3 degrees (or you see/smell smoke or crackling whichever comes first) pull the plug and pray you didn't burn anything on the board. Make sure you are by a window or door and can quickly extract smoke from the room so as not to set off the smoke alarm in your apartment complex like I very nearly did.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps somebody someday.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13669" LastActivityDate="2018-12-02T23:05:14.813" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7567" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7565" CreationDate="2018-12-03T00:57:41.147" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;For your purposes, consider that Meshmixer (free) can open .OBJ files and display them in any position you desire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I use Meshmixer quite a bit for model editing, but have not used it for .OBJ files with textures. I searched my drive and found quite a few .OBJ files, but was not able to present or add textures, due to my own ignorance, I'm sure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found a useful link to a &lt;a href=&quot;https://forums.autodesk.com/t5/meshmixer/obj-import-in-meshmixer-without-texture/td-p/8007101&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;support page&lt;/a&gt; on the 'net which indicates that there has to be a texture file as well as a definition file (.MTL) in order to display the textures in Meshmixer. Using that reference, I was able to add a randomly selected .PNG file and apply the texture to a test model.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your creations do not include those support files, this may not be a good answer. There's little to lose, however, as the program is free and you may find use for it in the future, or you may find that it works as you require.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastActivityDate="2018-12-03T00:57:41.147" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7569" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7541" CreationDate="2018-12-03T09:24:11.947" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you go to the Monoprice website you will find a dedicated page for &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.mpselectmini.com/slicers/cura&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Ultimaker Cura&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the page you can read that:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Cura now includes profiles for the MP Select Mini V1 and V2. Go to&#xA;  “Settings”, “Printer”, “Add Printer…”, “Other”. Select the radio&#xA;  button next to the printer, then “Add Printer”.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So you must be able to configure it correctly for your printer (this must include the G-code flavor for your printer). Do note that Monoprice does nothing with the Ultimaker Cura installers, they simply link directly to the source at Ultimaker. Also note all the problems related to specific versions and how to fix them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You write that the:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The control board continues to show the print progress bar continuing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This I have experiences myself (on a different printer with Marlin 1.1.8), so a non-printing printer while the progressbar progresses. I solved this myself by flashing to a newer firmware version. It appears to be a &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/issues/9636&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;bug in the firmware&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might want to explore whether it is feasible for you to update, I read that there are issues with this printer concerning firmware updating (it appears that there are different hardware versions of this printer).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;E.g. &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/groups/monoprice-select-mini-owners/forums/general/topic:19510&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;from this reference&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;If your MPSM V2 currently has Motion Controller v34 or higher&#xA;  installed then you can update with this firmware. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;If your MPSM V2 currently has Motion Controller v30 or lower, do NOT update with this firmware. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;If you have Motion Controller versions 31, 32, or 33 please&#xA;  ask before updating with this firmware.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although the changelog does not mention your problems, you may benefit from a firmware update. Please do this at your own risk, take precautions and read in the matter if your printer is able to be updated. It is best to first look into your settings how the printer is configured in Ultimaker Cura. Preferably, delete the current printer configuration and add a new configuration as described &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.mpselectmini.com/slicers/cura&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2018-12-03T09:24:11.947" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7570" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7565" CreationDate="2018-12-03T12:40:10.050" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you need just a graphical 3D look at them, opening them in any slicing program should create a graphic visualization in relation to the print grid - in glorious 3D. Slicers don't allow to place textures on them though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of the most common slicers among hobbyists, Ultimaker Cura, comes also as a linux distribution, just like a couple more reviewed on &lt;a href=&quot;https://all3dp.com/1/best-3d-slicer-software-3d-printer/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;all3dp.com&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If slapping textures on your model is a strict demand, then you have to get a proper graphic-design program. Blender, which is a mess, as you mentioned, is one of the most powerful ones out there. But even with blender you don't need to go all deep into learning: if you just want to check out a rough fit of the looks, it can be used for a 3D visualization. It can be helpful to use the vertex-paint mode to mark some areas as you spin the model around. And if you dig deeper into the matter, you can make an UV-map easily.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2019-02-13T11:46:35.153" LastActivityDate="2019-02-13T11:46:35.153" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7571" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7564" CreationDate="2018-12-03T14:04:32.357" Score="2" Body="&lt;h1&gt;Your allowable temperature tolerance might be too low.&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You have seen what I call emergency-halt the print on getting too far away from the set print-temperature. As described, the allowable tolerance seems to be 1 degree, which means pretty much any variation in the printer head's temperature will trigger the stop before the software even can counteract it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To counteract this, you might try to increase your allowable range slightly, for example to about 2.5 of more degrees, either way, giving the printer time to compensate without halting the print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;How the tolerance area works&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Let's assume the printer has 210 degrees with a stable heat input from the cartridge and monitored by the thermosensor.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;conditions are met to start printing.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Filament is pushed into the nozzle, picking up heat energy from the heater block.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The temperature of the heater block drops, as the thermal energy (=heat) input from the cartridge did not yet include the new thermal energy drain in the shape of the filament.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The Thermosensor registers the thermal drop a little bit later and notifies the chip&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The chip increases the voltage on the heater cartridge with a little time difference&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;With a very low tolerance, it is possible to fall below the threshold before the cartridge could heat up to compensate&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the cartridge pumps in way more heat than needed, raising the temperature rapidly back into the print-temperature tolerance area...&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;...and overshoots the aimed for 210 degrees.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The thermosensor only registers the aimed temperature with a short delay&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the chip cuts the voltage to the heater cartridge lower&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;but there is still a lot of extra thermal energy banked in the heater cartridge, heating the block over the aimed 210 degrees&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;which again can trigger the stop for the temperature rose over the allowable tolerance.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastActivityDate="2018-12-03T14:04:32.357" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7572" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-12-03T15:23:31.667" Score="3" ViewCount="1302" Body="&lt;p&gt;I built a cheap Delta printer with ATMega board and 1.8° motors. The micro stepping is limitied to 1/16. Beside a decent print quality, I observe a moire effect on flat surfaces. The moire is clearly caused by a combination of both, the 1.8° motors steps and the low microstepping. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I thought about using 0.9° stepper motors together with a combination of board and drivers which support &amp;lt; 1/32 micro stepping. Is there a comparison somewhere illustrating potential quality differences on larger delta printers and is this the way to remove the moire effect? For cartesian printers I would not bother using such motors, but I noticed that a higher holding torque at smaller steps is desirable for delta printers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Example&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not one of my prints, but this is how it looks &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ao5PD.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ao5PD.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10847" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2018-12-04T00:39:34.277" LastActivityDate="2019-06-03T20:07:15.047" Title="0.9° motors for Delta printers?" Tags="|delta|motor|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7573" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-12-03T22:39:27.650" Score="4" ViewCount="44601" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am trying to print my first test but my Creality Ender 3 starts printing near the front edge and within 10 seconds is printing in front of the tray (off onto my table).  I really think it should be starting the print in the middle and then never going so close to the edge and even over it&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What can I do?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13679" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-12-04T22:43:26.120" LastActivityDate="2020-04-03T06:44:28.333" Title="Creality Ender 3 - printing in front of the build plate" Tags="|calibration|build-plate|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7574" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7573" CreationDate="2018-12-03T22:57:19.823" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;When a print is not printing on the build platform, you either:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Have the incorrect settings in the slicer (e.g. Ultimaker Cura, &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/6450/5740&quot;&gt;a common mistake is that the &quot;origin at center&quot; option is active&lt;/a&gt;), or&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Have the center of the bed incorrectly stored in your firmware. (See: &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6375/how-to-center-my-prints-on-the-build-platform&quot;&gt;How to center my prints on the build platform? (Re-calibrate homing offset)&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6399/recalibrating-home-position&quot;&gt;Recalibrating Home-position&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that the most simple change (after you verified the slicer settings and confirmed that it still does not print in the center) is adjusting the settings in the slicer (bed settings, of start G-code script), this way you do not need to compile and upload new firmware (e.g. if you are uncomfortable or inexperienced in doing so), but, fixing it in the firmware is the best solution. Why? If you change the offset in the slicer you force the bed dimensions to a new position that &lt;em&gt;you know&lt;/em&gt; where it is, while if changed in the firmware, the printer &quot;&lt;em&gt;knows&lt;/em&gt;&quot; the actual size and the limits.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;To fully answer your question, we need a little more information what slicer you use and what the current settings are. From your question it sounds as if the offset is more than a few millimeters. Usually this hints to an incorrect slicer setting (frequently Ultimaker Cura).&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-04-03T06:44:28.333" LastActivityDate="2020-04-03T06:44:28.333" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7575" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7573" CreationDate="2018-12-04T00:29:56.233" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Ender 3 has its standard homing position not set to a point on the build plate but rather at the physical position of the endstops. That is a couple millimeter in front and at the side of the &lt;em&gt;front left&lt;/em&gt; corner. To make it clear, &lt;em&gt;home&lt;/em&gt; or &lt;em&gt;(0,0,0)&lt;/em&gt; is &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; the center of the build plate but some millimeters off the &lt;em&gt;front-left corner&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To move the home position away from the physical switch positions and onto the build plate's front left corner - should you want to - you will need to switch the firmware of your printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A walkthrough I had with an Ender3 (the same machine type) is at &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/6660/8884&quot;&gt;Recalibrating Home Position&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2018-12-04T15:57:31.320" LastActivityDate="2018-12-04T15:57:31.320" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7577" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7572" CreationDate="2018-12-04T08:36:47.973" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Delta bots always need all motors to step to maintain a straight level. &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/5796/full-steps-mode-for-z-axis-stepper-controller&quot;&gt;Microstepping&lt;/a&gt;, is not magic, the &lt;strong&gt;incremental torque&lt;/strong&gt; decreases per step so that you will be more likely to miss a few micro-steps. Furthermore, the signal that creates voltages for the micro-step positioning is usually not perfectly sinusoidal (pulse-width voltage modulation is used to achieve micro-stepping by controlling the current; the driver sends two voltage sine waves, 90 degrees out of phase to the motor windings), micro-stepping drives can only &lt;strong&gt;approximate&lt;/strong&gt; a &lt;strong&gt;true sine wave&lt;/strong&gt;. This means that some torque ripples, resonance, and noise remains and hence resulting in odd stepper behavior, like seen below from &lt;a href=&quot;https://hackaday.com/2016/08/29/how-accurate-is-microstepping-really/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this ref.&lt;/a&gt; (after the half step the stepper jumps to the full step and maintains that value for a while):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ICxJV.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ICxJV.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is seen as a &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Moir%C3%A9_pattern&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Moiré&lt;/a&gt; pattern in your printed products. As an example, if the head is moved in Z direction by micro-step, you will almost certainly notice that the head doesn't move on every micro-step, but only every 3rd or 4th micro-step (as an example). When using higher resolution steppers like the 0.9&amp;deg; stepper motors, you will still miss micro-steps (e.g. the same, so also on every 3rd or 4th micro-step the head moves), but as the micro-step is half the size of that one of a 1.8&amp;deg; stepper motor, the accuracy as in precision and resolution is higher.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In that sense, if you change your stepper drivers for higher micro-stepping drivers (from 1/16 to 1/32 as you mention), it will not help you improve the resolution much because the incremental torque from one to another 1/32 micro-step is lower than for 1/16 micro-steps as can be seen in the figure below (taken from &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.micromo.com/media/wysiwyg/Technical-library/Stepper/6_Microstepping%20WP.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this ref.&lt;/a&gt;). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mBonI.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mBonI.png&quot; alt=&quot;Incremental stepper torque as function of micro-step size&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, using 0.9&amp;deg; motors (and keeping 1/16 micro-stepping) improves positioning accuracy as described above, it will also reduce the noise, because the torque per unit angular error is nearly doubled. Also remember that if you are using 8-bit electronics (you hint to an ATMega board), then even 1/32 micro-stepping burdens the processor to achieve reasonable travel speeds. With 8-bit electronics, it is usually suggested to use 1/16 stepping.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Upgrading an existing printer from 1.8&amp;deg; to 0.9&amp;deg; stepper motors is probably not worth for the majority of users (note that the maximum allowable speed also reduces when using 0.9&amp;deg; stepper motors). Unless you are designing and building a new delta, or aren't on a tight budget you could opt for the additional costs of buying 0.9&amp;deg; stepper motors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that updating to higher micro-stepping values not necessarily implies that the quality of your products also increase. See e.g. &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/159/5740&quot;&gt;this reference&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-05-04T08:50:57.420" LastActivityDate="2019-05-04T08:50:57.420" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7579" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="223" CreationDate="2018-12-04T16:58:37.780" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is difficult to give a definitive answer, but I have some thoughts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a vertical wall, the minimum thickness is determined by your nozzle size, typically 0.4mm. If you are able to print entirely in a vertical orientation (a pipe standing on end), you may consider using &quot;vase mode&quot; with no top or bottom to print. This can help simplify the CAD modeling, as you don't have to model the hollow interior and wall thickness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a horizontal wall, in theory this could be a single layer height, about 0.1mm depending on the printer and settings. Realistically, you will probably need 2 to 4 layers to get something &quot;solid&quot;. However, this is not likely to have good results for a hollow pipe due to performance of the printer in bridging and overhangs. A thin, round pipe laying on its side is not likely to be successfully printable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For printing in a horizontal orientation, I'd recommend a non-circular shape; the specific shape would depend on your overall design and goals. A &quot;teardrop&quot; or &quot;flat teardrop shape can help with horizontal holes through parts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, rather than individual pipes, perhaps you could design a block with hollow passages. This could allow thicker walls, make it much stronger, reduce assembly needs, allow for extremely complex routing and internal connections, and may even allow for functional parts like valves or sensors to be installed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, I would not expect an FDM-printed part to be airtight. There will most likely be some small gaps between layers and where layers start and stop. As an example, I tried making an ice mold, but almost all the water seeped through before it froze.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another poster recommended an acetone vapor bath, which should help seal any pores. This only works with ABS. Another idea might be to coat the inner surfaces of the pipes with a resin that can seal everything up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5704" LastActivityDate="2018-12-04T16:58:37.780" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7580" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7584" CreationDate="2018-12-05T09:18:17.647" Score="3" ViewCount="524" Body="&lt;p&gt;First post here, so please forgive me for any silly mistakes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Recently the y-axis (I think, forward-backward) has started skipping forward when printing the first layer of my print. It prints the raft with no issues at all, sticks the bed nice and flat and the raft is perfect every time. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then it starts to print the actual item, but every time it starts to the print the back right corner the Y-Axis jumps or skips on the gears and makes a loud grinding noise. The amount it jumps varies on the print, but always jumps towards the front of the print. It doesn't matter on the size of the print or the position, it always jumps forward never back.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The printer is a Makerbot Replikator clone, from eBay. The X &amp;amp; Y moves the extruder. I have tried upgrading and downgrading the software (which uses Makerbot software) I am unsure if I can update the firmware.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any help much appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;UPDATE:&#xA;Image has been attached of the failed part, excuse the colour, I use it for my test prints. This is orientation it printed on the bed. First 3 blocks printed fine, 4th one jumped  It printed in the following order 1. top-left, 2. bottom left, 3. bottom right, 4. top right.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bIkxe.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bIkxe.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Failed 3D print part&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13695" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2018-12-06T18:50:43.477" LastActivityDate="2019-03-19T11:58:53.540" Title="Layer shifting on product printing after raft support structure" Tags="|troubleshooting|y-axis|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7581" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-12-05T16:13:32.183" Score="1" ViewCount="300" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am trying to print with clay.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These are my Slic3r speed settings,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FE115.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Slic3r speed settings&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FE115.png&quot; alt=&quot;Slic3r speed settings&quot; title=&quot;Slic3r speed settings&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other information;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Nozzle: 1.4 mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;First layer height: 0.9 mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;layer height: 1 mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Filament dia: 1.8 mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;perimeter: 3&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I print, the first layer is printed faster than remaining layers and in the remaining layers, the two inner perimeters are printed much slower than the outer perimeter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Video: &lt;a href=&quot;https://drive.google.com/open?id=1UE2MFhjTXpVEirsNK3KlALi4Fb5Ca8rX&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;print video&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;G-code: &lt;a href=&quot;https://drive.google.com/open?id=1GMyNPaX8YiB3-P2UNHGC3gTZC3M3oilm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;gcode&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Isn't this strange since I give the same print speed for all?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10670" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-12-07T05:21:20.843" LastActivityDate="2019-10-03T17:03:10.453" Title="Speed issue with Slic3r and Marlin" Tags="|marlin|slic3r|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7582" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7596" CreationDate="2018-12-05T22:59:22.830" Score="2" ViewCount="638" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've built a DIY 3D printer similar to Prusa i3. It does &lt;em&gt;homing&lt;/em&gt; and &lt;em&gt;bed leveling&lt;/em&gt; very well with a PNP Lj12a3_4_Z_BY sensor using &lt;code&gt;G28&lt;/code&gt; and &lt;code&gt;G29&lt;/code&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/E9Cag.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Lj12a3_4_Z_BY&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/E9Cag.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Lj12a3_4_Z_BY&quot; title=&quot;Lj12a3_4_Z_BY&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, when I push the print button on Pronterface or Simplify3D, Z axis goes up about 20mm and starts printing in air. I can't figure out what is going wrong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13700" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2018-12-27T23:02:16.577" LastActivityDate="2018-12-27T23:02:16.577" Title="Why does my DIY printer start printing in air?" Tags="|z-axis|bed-leveling|simplify3d|z-probe|pronterface|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7584" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7580" CreationDate="2018-12-06T10:55:36.807" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Layer shifting is a result of the use of open-loop control systems. This means that the printer just instructs the head to go to certain positions without checking that it actually did arrive at that position. If something happens along the path, like hitting some part of the print or the printer, the motors could loose steps or the belts may skip teeth without the printer knowing it, so it continues further without correcting this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a couple of causes for the skipping to occur. Usually it is a mechanical issue, but it can also be related to an electrical problem or a print settings problem (if e.g. your print speed it too high, the steppers could miss steps).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looking closely at the image, you will see that the infill of the first layer does not touch the outer lines. This could be a hint that your belts are not tight enough (mechanical issue). Too loose belts cause the stepper driving pulley to skip. Also check the pulley whether it is securely fastened so that the pulley is not slipping when subjected to an increased torque. The nozzle most probably hits the raft (ABS? as it curls up and detaches, you see some irregularities on the left of the bottom right product in your image). Do note that too tight belts are also not wanted as they stress the stepper by an increased torque load. If the issue is electronically related, you could thick of increasing the torque by increasing the current through the stepper (and driver). Too much current will overheat the stepper driver though, so make sure that these do not exceed their rated maximum and properly cool the stepper drivers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To solve your issues it is recommended to first try printing at lower speeds (this can be skipped if you already have low print speeds), then check the mechanical system of the printer, and finally, if this does not fix the problem, you could look into the electronics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-03-19T11:58:53.540" LastActivityDate="2019-03-19T11:58:53.540" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7585" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7483" CreationDate="2018-12-06T19:46:02.203" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is dependent on the slicer and the nozzle diameter. Typically, you cannot print a wall smaller than twice the nozzle diameter because walls need an inner and outer line. Therefore, your slicer will make some cutoff and won't print walls below a certain threshold, in order to try to faithfully replicate your model.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Slic3r, I believe, will automatically go down to single line walls, but if you turn on &quot;Detect thin walls&quot; in Slic3r's Print Settings, more of the thin walls will be printed. Slic3r will actually reduce the plastic extruded to attempt to make even thinner walls, but there's still a limit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With a 0.4&amp;nbsp;mm nozzle, you should design walls no smaller than 0.8&amp;nbsp;mm, or 0.4&amp;nbsp;mm at the very smallest.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13492" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-12-07T05:21:59.420" LastActivityDate="2018-12-07T05:21:59.420" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7586" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7482" CreationDate="2018-12-06T20:04:18.037" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You retraction settings may be too high. Direct drive extruders require less retraction than Bowden style extruders. Typical retraction settings for direct drive are 1.5mm at 50mm/s and for Bowden, 4mm at 50mm/s. The speed usually makes more of a difference than distance beyond a certain point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can get away with smaller retraction settings if you increase travel speed because there will be less time to ooze. You could also try using Coasting as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway, try reducing your retraction settings if they're higher than what I stated above. Another alternative is to set an extra prime distance so that extra filament is extruded after the retraction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13492" LastActivityDate="2018-12-06T20:04:18.037" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7587" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7581" CreationDate="2018-12-06T20:36:48.797" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Make sure that on the Print Settings tab, under Advanced, you have set the Extrusion widths for your custom nozzle settings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13492" LastActivityDate="2018-12-06T20:36:48.797" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7588" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7580" CreationDate="2018-12-06T21:50:49.343" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm guessing that the bed in the offending corner is farther away and your raft is curling and lifting off the bed in that corner, and your nozzle it hitting it. Try releveling your bed, paying particular close attention to that corner. In addition, work on bed adhesion in general. Clean the bed, make sure fan is off on first layer, and go slow on first layer, and use proper bed temp for the material. You can also try glue stick.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13492" LastActivityDate="2018-12-06T21:50:49.343" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7589" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-12-06T22:19:42.150" Score="3" ViewCount="4643" Body="&lt;p&gt;My Prusa i3 MK3 forgot his home position and it now assumes that the Z 0.0 position is right at the top of the printer. I've &lt;a href=&quot;https://shop.prusa3d.com/forum/assembly-and-first-prints-troubleshooting-f62/lowering-z-axis-if-head-is-at-the-top--t25773.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;asked about this in the Prusa forum before&lt;/a&gt; and at that time, I accidentally found a solution using Pronterface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I am now in the same situation again. The printer head is at the very top. It assumes that this is Z 0.0, so I can't move it down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Calibrating Z does not help. It will always display&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Some problem encounteres, Z-leveling enforced ...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and some time later, it calibrates Z again, resulting in the same problem and so on (endless loop).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Pronterface trick (pressing the home button) does not work any more. However, Pronterface seems to accept raw G-Code.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Which G-Code command would I need to send to the printer to let the head move down?&lt;/strong&gt; That would need to be a command that just rotates the stepper motor and does not consider the Z-axis value, so that the head effectively moves to negative Z values.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have also tried:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;moving the head down manually while the printer was turned off. I'd like to avoid that. It just doesn't feel right. However, it worked after the third attempt and I was able to do a XYZ calibration. However, during bed leveling, it failed and went into the &quot;some problem encountered&quot; state again.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1570" LastActivityDate="2018-12-07T00:50:25.910" Title="Moving the Z-axis stepper motors below Z 0.0" Tags="|prusa-i3|calibration|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7590" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7589" CreationDate="2018-12-07T00:38:57.520" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;To allow negative axis values, usually, the way is to use &lt;code&gt;G1 S1&lt;/code&gt; to &lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?267,329935,330264&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;disable boundary&lt;/a&gt; checks and &lt;code&gt;G1 S0&lt;/code&gt; to enable them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another way is to force homing Z, which means moving till an endstop triggers and then moving back up the specified motion via &lt;code&gt;G28 Z&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another alternative would be to send &lt;code&gt;G92 Z50&lt;/code&gt; to set the Z-hight to 50, then &lt;code&gt;G1 Z-50 F200&lt;/code&gt; to move that much down, rinse and repeat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2018-12-07T00:50:25.910" LastActivityDate="2018-12-07T00:50:25.910" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7591" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7593" CreationDate="2018-12-07T02:57:07.357" Score="5" ViewCount="349" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently bought my first 3d printer, a &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B018GZBC3Y&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;monoprice maker select v2&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After a couple of print jobs, this piece fell out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rJRWh.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Printer part&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rJRWh.png&quot; alt=&quot;Printer part&quot; title=&quot;Printer part&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have no idea where it came from.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But afterwards, I notice that my Z-positioning is all screwed up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I select &quot;Home All&quot; to reset all positions to do bed leveling, the extruder tries to push down pass the build-platform, puncturing a hole into the plastic bed cover.&#xA;There was a lot of clicking from the motor so I immediately turned it off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I turned it back on and then tried to move the z-position back up. But it moves only about an inch up before the motor starts clicking again. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was reading some other posts about a &quot;Z-axis limiter switch&quot;. Could that be what the little metal fork-like piece is? &#xA;Where does it go and how do I put it back?&#xA;And how do I reset my z-position?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any help appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13712" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-12-10T06:16:25.820" LastActivityDate="2019-12-10T06:16:25.820" Title="What is this part and does it have to do with my my z-position is messed up?" Tags="|z-axis|endstop|monoprice-maker-select|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7592" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-12-07T04:27:58.570" Score="3" ViewCount="330" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been making some ABS prints, but it's really hard to remove it afterwards.&#xA;I've read a lot of different ways of removing it, including using the included chisel/spatula, using air duster, 50/50 alcohol/water, reheating the bed...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've also read about using a flexible bed that can flex it out. I'm eager to try this approach but don't know what magnetic bed I should get that's compatible with it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But if you have other tricks for it, please let me know. Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13712" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-12-10T06:15:55.680" LastActivityDate="2019-12-10T06:15:55.680" Title="What do you recommend for removing prints from Monoprice Maker Select bed?" Tags="|abs|monoprice-maker-select|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7593" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7591" CreationDate="2018-12-07T06:40:52.623" Score="6" Body="&lt;h1&gt;Limiter Switch/Endstop&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That is the lever that is meant to trigger your Z-Endstop. The variant used in your case is on the cheaper end and is meant to look similar to this QIAOH KN12-1 limit switch:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tnzSW.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tnzSW.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;a KN12-1 Qiaoh micro limit switch&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will either exchange the endstop as a whole, somehow reattach the/a lever or change the physical position of the endstop so that the moving X-axis is triggering it (again).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Replacement &amp;amp; Wiring advice&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pretty much any switch that can have both an NC/NO (normally closed/normally open) state will function in its state, but it is usually a good idea to have all safety switches (like limit switches) be NC types and have the firmware detect the loss of signal as a safety feature. In case of a broken cable, this will automatically force the machine to halt, instead of keeping the machine moving despite having reached the maximum position.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Normally Open/Closed&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is even possible to wire up a number of redundant switches into one circuit. For NC setup, all the switches need to go in series, so that any switch getting toggled cuts the signal at that point. On the other hand, if only NO switches are used, they have to be wired in parallel: the signal passes when any number of switches is closed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;NO switches, because they are parallel, do cost us in the security department, as a broken lead does not halt the machine's use, but they are easier to troubleshoot as a broken component only takes out its specific arm of the parallel circuit. On the other hand, the NC-series does give us the broken lead security, but a single broken component that stays switched to open disables the whole series and identifying the broken component can take more time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;NOT-Gates&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you can imagine, some clever electronics allow us to use us to turn an NO into an NC and vice versa. This clever piece is a NOT-gate, sometimes also called inverter. They take a logic signal and a supply voltage lead, and only allow the supply voltage to pass into their output if there is no signal in their input side. So, they allow using a NO switch as an NC switch or vice versa. In any case, the NOT-gate needs to be on the &lt;em&gt;output&lt;/em&gt; side the switch(es) it shall invert as it only inverts the signal that happens before it in the circuit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With this clever piece, one can use a combination of NO and NC switches, if one so desires: The NO and NC parts are to be wired separately in groups (the NC group in series, the NO group(s) in parallel). To combine the two signals, there are two ways: Either run the NO output through the NOT-gate into the NC circuit's input, putting it into the series (and making it technically function as a single NC-element), or put the NC group output signal into the NOT-gate and put both groups in parallel. In either case, the NOT-gate 'flips' the function of the switches to behave as if they were the other type: from NC to NO and vice versa.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:29:41.667" LastActivityDate="2018-12-12T07:54:03.350" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7594" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7483" CreationDate="2018-12-07T06:49:14.567" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The absolute minimum a slicer will allow existing in a g-code is one extrusion diameter, which is typically roundabout a nozzle diameter. So for a standard 0.4 mm nozzle, the model will be cut in a way that keeps at &lt;em&gt;least&lt;/em&gt; 0.4 mm thick walls, or, if the slicer is extra careful, double that, as the model demands 2 walls next to each other. The result is, that the model with such sharp walls will be cut till the model does conform to the minimum wall thickness - in your case about half the height of the model. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I strongly encourage to further read &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/6830/8884&quot;&gt;What special considerations must be taken when designing parts for 3D printing?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2018-12-07T07:00:48.127" LastActivityDate="2018-12-07T07:00:48.127" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7595" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7592" CreationDate="2018-12-07T09:06:24.453" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;When all other things have failed, I chuck the build plate in the freezer for half an hour.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The glassplate and the plastic changes size differently when changing temperature and 'pop' it just snaps off easily.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8328" LastActivityDate="2018-12-07T09:06:24.453" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7596" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7582" CreationDate="2018-12-07T10:37:01.817" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the cad model was imported from Solidworks into Simplify3D. Push &quot;Center and Arrange&quot; button to place the model in the middle of the Heat Bed. There might be a gap between the object and bed level that is hard to see. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13700" LastActivityDate="2018-12-07T10:37:01.817" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7597" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7601" CreationDate="2018-12-07T13:02:39.453" Score="1" ViewCount="795" Body="&lt;p&gt;A while ago bought a Bowden extruder to replace the old built-in one (It was malfunctioning or something that I cannot remember well). This one in particular has been acquired:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LF28s.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LF28s.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;The extruder set&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The thing is, that almost a year has passed since the printer did something rather than getting jammed and not work properly. The extruder itself seems to work properly, when I heats up and push the filament by hand seems to pass properly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When assembled and start to print, the printer at first seems to work, but after a minute or so, it stops extruding (gets jammed or something).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The last time that I removed the filament and I've found out that it was coiled inside (Very strange):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wBjnr.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wBjnr.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Coiled ugly deformed filament&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My first thought was that the filament was thinner than the extruder's specs, but the seller says that is for 1.75mm, and all my filaments have that diameter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I am missing? Something maybe that is not properly mounted?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The product is not official, bought on Amazon (I didn't know about e3d v6).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Printing temperature should be 180ºC but I've seen now that Cura sets the first layers to print at 200ºC. Material: PLA&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My printer is a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.bq.com/en/support/prusa/support-sheet&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;BQ Prusa i3 Hephestos&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13720" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-12-09T08:24:42.720" LastActivityDate="2020-02-20T14:58:37.580" Title="Filament gets coiled inside the extruder" Tags="|filament|extrusion|hotend|bowden|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7598" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7592" CreationDate="2018-12-07T16:44:01.873" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;After having similar issues to you, and becoming frustrated with having to scrape and pry so much, I bought a removeable magnetic build plate.  I'm not extremely happy with the exact one I purchased, so I won't link it directly, but the concept and general execution is wonderful, compared to the standard build plate on the Maker Select.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any magnetic build plate that says it's 200x200 should fit, though I'd recommend getting a larger one and cutting it to size - the one I bought is 200x200 exactly and leaves quite a bit of space around the build area that seems like lost space.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7384" LastActivityDate="2018-12-07T16:44:01.873" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7601" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7597" CreationDate="2018-12-08T21:40:20.987" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As long as there is no more information about the printer itself (I searched a bit and around half of buyers were severely unhappy with the result), I'd advise you to make a full check of all of the important parts that make up a 3D printer making ok prints:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Are motors moving as they should?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is the extruder actually extrude filament when told so (do the check &quot;2cm&quot; = 2cm extruded)?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is the Z calibration ok (&amp;lt;- VERY important, will make tons of weird problems if extruder is too close to the bed, believe me, don't skip out on this one. A blue tape or not a blue tape makes a world of difference).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also of course check your filament (no variations too big of the diameter).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the temperature, IMO go for the higher for starters (maybe no, see &quot;heat creep&quot; below), you won't be able to bridge / less good quality etc. but you'll get pieces done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;NOW, the image you posted shows a twisted (I don't know how to handle that) or a grinded filament.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I say 'grinded' I mean that the filament got stuck somewhere (see below) and the (cogged) wheel pushing the filament is so strong that is grinds off plastic from it, forming waves on the filament. Eating away parts so it looks like your photo.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If that's the case, then you should check out &quot;heat creep&quot;, it's basically the heat in the lowest part of the extruder (the thing you call a bowden extruder) will heat up the filament and make it melt Above the heat block, making a blob of half melt plastic stopping the forward movement of the filament.&#xA;This is usually mitigated by two things, that lacks more or less in cheap chinese knock offs:&#xA;* The fan and it's cooling efficiency (the fan must blow when the heat block is hot, even if there is no printing going on. Even if the heat block is no longer heating. I shut the fan off at around 60°C).&#xA;* The Heat break: if it's heavy it will conduct too much heat, if it's thin it might work but will break easily.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3D Printing is not obvious or easy, but spend some time and it'll start to work well!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cheers&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8328" LastActivityDate="2018-12-08T21:40:20.987" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7602" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7604" CreationDate="2018-12-09T01:44:17.990" Score="0" ViewCount="504" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a thicker glass plate on the bed. Also, I have a z-axis offset at the maximum value 50 yet the nozzle does not clear the plate. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why can't I adjust the axis beyond 50? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13733" LastActivityDate="2018-12-09T04:20:38.500" Title="Ender 3 Nozzle does not clear bed" Tags="|z-axis|creality-ender-3|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7603" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-12-09T02:55:54.710" Score="6" ViewCount="10157" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm having issues getting PETG to print nicely. I have encountered pretty much every issue because when I fix one thing another issue pops up. I see people saying that you should &amp;quot;just copy your PLA settings&amp;quot;, but that &lt;em&gt;definitely&lt;/em&gt; did not work for me, with issues from bed adhesion, stringing, globbing, and especially issues with the top layers. At the moment I am getting very decent quality prints from PETG, however the one issue that remains is the top of the print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Infill looks fine, it is printing fast, so that is where I would expect the filament to glob to the extruder. But that happens on the very first top layer. The printer goes over the honeycomb, and the filament gets oozy and starts forming in globs on the edge of each inner wall. This takes a few layers to print over, and even after 5 layers at 0.25 mm layer height it has holes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Cpcy7.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Picture&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Software:&lt;/strong&gt; I am using Slic3r PE 1.41.2, on Repetier Host 2.1.3.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Printer:&lt;/strong&gt; Wanhao DI3 or Monoprice Maker Select Plus.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Filament:&lt;/strong&gt; Amazon Basics branded Navy Blue PETG.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Settings:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;40 mm/s print speed,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;0.2 mm layer height,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;70 °C heat bed,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;235 °C hot end,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;15 % honeycomb infill,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;20 % - 50 % automatic fan speed.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would like to solve this without increasing infill percentage because the parts are already quite dense with 15 % honeycomb and I don't want to waste material and time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13732" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-07-09T05:01:43.330" LastActivityDate="2020-07-09T05:01:43.330" Title="Messy top layer with PETG filament?" Tags="|filament|slicing|calibration|slic3r|petg|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7604" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7602" CreationDate="2018-12-09T04:20:38.500" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are several ways to get the Z0 into a position the sotware can account for it without needing to write your own firmware if needed:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Remove the build-tak-clone under your glass sheet to get the better heat transfer and remove a couple millimeters.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tighten the bed leveling to account for some millimeters.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Move the physical endstop to account for the thicker build platform.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastActivityDate="2018-12-09T04:20:38.500" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7605" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7603" CreationDate="2018-12-09T08:09:59.070" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Five top layers should normally be more than enough to create a seamless top layer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Indeed, PETG prints a little differently than PLA. It requires a higher hot end temperature, less part cooling (to improve sticking to previous layers), a higher build plate temperature and usually care in choosing the right initial layer height. Once the printer  needs to create the top surface layers, too much temperature, too less cooling and too low of an infill percentage can cause the top bridging over the infill to fail. Your settings seem to be fine except for the low percentage of infill, 15% is very low.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other possible causes could be under-extrusion and too fast printing, but in this case the low infill percentage is probably the main reason. To get a better top layer you could first try to increase the infill percentage. If you go to 20 or 30 % infill, you would only marginally &quot;waste&quot; filament. More filament and time is wasted when whole prints fail as of a bad top layer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-12-10T10:55:51.860" LastActivityDate="2018-12-10T10:55:51.860" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7606" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7607" CreationDate="2018-12-09T10:56:26.190" Score="8" ViewCount="14969" Body="&lt;p&gt;I keep hearing about vase mode, but I have some problem figuring out how to set it up in my slicer; I use Cura slicer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, I'd like to get some settings to do it in Ultimaker Cura, using PLA if the material is important, plus any advice on how to properly do it and ensure that the print retains it's shape on print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12917" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2022-07-04T20:50:37.910" LastActivityDate="2022-07-04T20:52:48.350" Title="Settings for vase mode in Cura?" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|software|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7607" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7606" CreationDate="2018-12-09T12:49:40.003" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Vase Mode changed the name in some version before 3.5. Now you can achieve this with 2 modes: &quot;Surface Mode&quot; and &quot;Spiralize Outer Contour&quot;. To turn it on do this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Choose the Custom setting menu on the right&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;click a gear to set up what settings you want to see&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Under the header &quot;Special Modes&quot; you find both Surface Mode and Spiralize Outer Contour&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;set the checkmarks on both&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Turning on the Surface mode to &lt;code&gt;Surface&lt;/code&gt; and checking &lt;code&gt;Spiralize Outer Contour&lt;/code&gt; gets the &quot;classic&quot; Vase Mode.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Turning on &lt;code&gt;Surface&lt;/code&gt; without &lt;code&gt;Spiralize Outer Contour&lt;/code&gt; gets an infill-less outer perimeter&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, the &lt;em&gt;classic&lt;/em&gt; Vase mode will only print the &lt;em&gt;single most outer perimeter&lt;/em&gt; of a print, so your model will have to be very limited with angles and contain no bridges - with one perimeter, you will only be able to print at best 45° angles!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2018-12-09T21:21:58.033" LastActivityDate="2018-12-09T21:21:58.033" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7609" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8391" CreationDate="2018-12-09T23:52:58.267" Score="2" ViewCount="630" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've successfully flashed Marlin 1.1.9 onto a Melzi v3.5 board (the stock board for my Monoprice Maker Select v2 (v2.1?, a white-labelled Wanhao i3 Duplicator).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Initially after the flash succeeded the LCD displayed was &quot;garbled&quot;.  The right side, in particular, had lots of pixels out of place.  I was able to resolve this by experimenting with some delay variables.  Prior to the flash the LCD was 100&amp;nbsp;% working; to my knowledge no damage happened while I had the machine apart.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's my changes to &lt;code&gt;Configuration.h&lt;/code&gt; from Marlin 1.1.9, excluding anything to do with X/Y/Z/E, etc (irrelevant stuff).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#define MOTHERBOARD BOARD_MELZI&#xA;#define SDSUPPORT&#xA;#define REVERSE_ENCODER_DIRECTION&#xA;&#xA;//&#xA;// LCD for Melzi Card with Graphical LCD&#xA;//&#xA;#define LCD_FOR_MELZI&#xA;&#xA;// Increase delays to fix garbled LCD&#xA;#define ST7920_DELAY_1 DELAY_NS(0)&#xA;#define ST7920_DELAY_2 DELAY_NS(100)&#xA;#define ST7920_DELAY_3 DELAY_NS(200)&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The display is much better, however there are about 4x rows of pixels through center of the display running left to right that &lt;em&gt;mostly&lt;/em&gt; don't display.  There are little sections--perhaps 20x pixels (maybe 3%) that do appear to be displaying.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a photo of the problem:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DRfRi.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DRfRi.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Marlin 1.1.9 on Maker Select v2 with missing LCD rows&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any other typical culprits?  Based on what I've read it sounds like this is a recent(ish) issue with Marlin, and perhaps would be solved with an older version or a different firmware.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a photo, if you look closely you can see the 'dead' rows, with about 6x pixels work&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;PS.&lt;/strong&gt;  While troubleshooting I added shielding to the LCD's ribbon cable (foil wrapping the cable, grounded, and wrapped with electrical tape).  It didn't help, but I left it on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13743" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-12-10T06:15:19.483" LastActivityDate="2019-12-10T06:15:19.483" Title="&quot;Missing&quot; rows on 64x128 LCD after flashing Marlin 1.1.9 onto Monoprice Maker Select v2" Tags="|marlin|wanhao|monoprice-maker-select|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7610" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-12-10T01:20:00.720" Score="5" ViewCount="64079" Body="&lt;p&gt;Earlier today I successfully completed a small print (less than 1 hour) on our Tevo Tarantula. When it came time to print the next one, I started preheating for PLA and got an &quot;E1 Thermal Runaway&quot; error. I replaced the heating element with a backup and got no error on preheat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With an estimated 5+ hrs printing time, the print got about 1 hour in before it quit with another &quot;E1 Thermal Runaway&quot; error. This is with a brand new heating element, the third in about as many months, and I don't do much printing at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this normal for the elements to be so shoddy or are there settings I need to be changing? I still have the first 2 elements that I thought had died but maybe that's not the issue at all so I'll hang onto them in case I'm overlooking some code to change in Marlin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've tried connecting and reconnecting both the wires for the heating element and for the thermistor. I've tightened and loosened the screw holding the thermistor in the heating block. While it did heat up momentarily, the error popped up again after less than a minute:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;23:40:57.529 : echo:DEBUG:INFO,ERRORS&#xA;23:41:04.974 : PID Autotune start&#xA;23:41:37.274 : Error:Heating failed, system stopped! Heater_ID: 0&#xA;23:41:37.274 : Error:Printer halted. kill() called!&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I find out what is wrong?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13208" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2018-12-16T20:11:39.113" LastActivityDate="2022-07-10T06:27:07.507" Title="Getting E1 Thermal Runaway errors, even after replacing the heating element on Tevo Tarantula" Tags="|troubleshooting|heat-management|tevo-tarantula|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7611" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7527" CreationDate="2018-12-10T07:10:30.573" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I feel that I solved the problem thanks to a few sources. Thanks to 0scar for his quick response and help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem was two fold. Mechanical problem causing blockage and slicer setting causing ripple.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The PTFE tube wasn't pushed all the way in as far as it could go causing too much pressure in the hotend. This seems to be a really common problem with stock Ender 3's Because of the gap the hotend needed to heat up into the heat break to melt the lump in the gap between the hot end and the PTFE tube. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The slicing settings in cura had combing enabled. I set it to not comb on skin but what it was doing is combing just behind the skin and as a result would leak out filament in little blobs that when it printed the outer layer would be pushed out causing a ripple effect. This caused under extrusion once it finished the move because there wasnt enough filament left in the end.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After I fixed these two things I was printing at 190c with no under extrusion, motor slipping, very little stringing and printing much better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13625" LastActivityDate="2018-12-10T07:10:30.573" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7612" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-12-10T09:32:48.850" Score="-1" ViewCount="488" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am using a node app that displays stls online &amp;amp; analyzes them. Is it possible to determine the minimum wall thickness of the stl just like 3D Hubs print analyzer does?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13747" LastEditorUserId="13747" LastEditDate="2018-12-12T15:06:57.273" LastActivityDate="2018-12-12T15:06:57.273" Title="Is it possible to use Three.js to determine the wall thickness of an STL file?" Tags="|print-quality|stl|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2018-12-12T04:06:24.120" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7613" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7612" CreationDate="2018-12-10T13:04:47.793" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;An STL file is a surface model file. From Wikipedia you can &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/STL_(file_format)&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;read&lt;/a&gt; that:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;STL files describe only the surface geometry of a three-dimensional&#xA;  object without any representation of color, texture or other common&#xA;  CAD model attributes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This implies that there is no such thing as a wall thickness, as such you will not be able to determine the wall thickness (it is infinitesimally small). You might be interested in part thickness at a certain position; part thickness and wall thickness for 3D printing are determined when the STL model is sliced into sliced for creating 3D printer code.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2018-12-10T13:04:47.793" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7614" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6576" CreationDate="2018-12-10T23:00:35.073" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;After printing 4 months, I've learned an answer for at least two situations, based on the geometry of the filament and nozzle. For this discussion, I'm using .1mm layers with a .4mm nozzle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First is the basic box and lid, from my question. It's important to remember the shape of the nozzle opening is a circle, and therefore when extruding to open air you get a cylinder. But we don't extrude to open air. We subtly press the extruded filament into the build surface or previous layer. In that case, using my best ascii art, a cross section of an extruded line of filament has rounded edges that only approximate that .4mm nozzle size, like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;(    )&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And as you lay down several layers, the exterior edge of a printed part should look more like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;(&#xA;(&#xA;(&#xA;(&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;where the outer edge of the curve actually protrudes slightly from the planned dimensions of the part. The question is, &amp;quot;how much&amp;quot;? My experience so far has been as much as 0.05 mm. And remember, you need to account for that for both the box part and the lid part. Additionally, when designing the lid, you need to account for this gap on both ends of each dimensional axis. That means a gap of as much as 0.2 mm could still be a nice, snug fit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the second scenario, let's say you have a pair of prints that will fit together. The base print includes an upward-pointing rod or cylinder, like a Lego piece, that will slot into a paired opening.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now you need to create the matching cylinder opening in the upper part, and you need to know how big. The concern is the top of the opening, which has nothing but air below it to hold up the filament. For small gaps you might bridge the distance. For larger gaps you might use support material or hemisphere top.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's say you find those options difficult for this scenario, or perhaps other factors have you printing this part laying sideways. so instead of an opening for a cylinder sitting like a can of soup, you print the part as is the cylinder were laying on it's side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now we can consider the geometry of how the filament is laid down. With my example nozzle and layer dimensions, we realize your opening &lt;em&gt;is not the precise circle indicated by the model&lt;/em&gt;. Instead, you have a grid pattern, like old 8-bit computer art. Worse, the width of each &amp;quot;pixel&amp;quot; is up to 4 times greater than the height.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With that in mind, the minimum extra space you need will be 1/2 of that 0.1 mm height, and the wrong situation could extend this to as much as 1/2 of the 0.4 mm filament width. And since this goes all the way around the part (on both sides) you need these distances twice. This is &lt;em&gt;in addition to&lt;/em&gt; the ridging effect discussed for the box earlier. The result means your rounded part should look for between a gap between 0.3 mm and 0.5 mm, with additional gap space if you're designing a part you may want to scale at some point. Remember, though, that plastic is pliable and if push comes to (literal) shove, sandable. In practice I've done well near the lower end of that range.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12562" LastEditorUserId="12562" LastEditDate="2023-09-11T13:27:31.533" LastActivityDate="2023-09-11T13:27:31.533" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7616" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7610" CreationDate="2018-12-11T14:36:26.770" Score="6" Body="&lt;h1&gt;1 PID Tune&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Changing the thermosensor or the heater cartridge is a big change in the system: each of these items has internal errors differing them from each other item. If your thermosensor has a different standard resistance by a small way than the one before, if the resistance of the cartridge is different, then the chip gets readings it does not expect. This is why a change of either of these components (or to a different heater block size/material for the matter) one should run a PID tune, teaching the chip how the new sensor/cartridge behave.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To do this, connect to your Printer via an USB Cable and run a software that can send raw gcode. I prefer Repetier Host, but other software also works. I like to follow the instructions of the &lt;a href=&quot;https://e3d-online.dozuki.com/Guide/V6+Assembly/6?lang=en#s87&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;e3D v6 assembly manual&lt;/a&gt;, but the video by &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=APzJfYAgFkQ&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Tom (Thomas Sanladererer)&lt;/a&gt; and the &lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/wiki/PID_Tuning&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;RepRap Wiki&lt;/a&gt; have excellent explanations too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Send &lt;code&gt;M303 E0 S200 C8&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;wait for finishing&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;send  &lt;code&gt;M301&lt;/code&gt; with the values you just got returned. One example might read  &lt;code&gt;M301 P17.28 I0.63 D118.87&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;sent &lt;code&gt;M500&lt;/code&gt; to update your EEPROM&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this doesn't help, we might have a bigger problem, so let's go troubleshooting! Hardware first, then Firmware.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A few useful hints that Thomas Sanladerer found &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ckQ9UWlmdVA&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;when he was checking his printers for fire hazards&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A shorted out thermosensor (closed loop, 0-Resistance) triggers Maxtemp&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A burnt out thermosensor (open loop) triggers Mintemp&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A non-connected or burnt out (open loop) Cartridge triggers thermal runaway, as does any other error with the cartridge that leads to abnormal heating.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;2 Check the Hardware&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hardware can fail, we all know that. But luckily there are only 5 items involved that could fail:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;2.1 Check all connections&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the heater cartridge is not connected properly, that will result in a Thermal Runaway Error, as the thermosensor does not detect any change.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A non connected thermosensor will trigger a mintemp error, a shorted thermosensor will trigger maxtemp error.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;2.2 Check the resistance of the heater cartridge&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A broken heater cartridge can have two results: either it conducts no electricity at all (for example if a lead is broken), or it acts as a jumper and has no resistance at all. To check this, use a multimeter and measure the resistance in Ohm by connecting it to the leads of the cartridge while it is dismounted. A broken circuit in the cartridge triggers Thermal Runaway, a shorted out cartridge can break the board in worst case. &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6LBUV.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;A pictoral guide for analogue Multimeters.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My e3D light6 in my 12 V TronXY has a resistance of about 5.2 Ω. The Value you will get depends on what kind of heater cartridge you use. For reference: e3D Heater Cartridges are &lt;a href=&quot;https://e3d-online.dozuki.com/Guide/V6+Assembly/6?lang=en#s87&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;documented&lt;/a&gt; to be around 4.8 Ω for 12 V &amp;amp; 30 W, 3.6 Ω for 12 V &amp;amp; 40 W, 19.2 Ω for 24 V 30 W and 14.4 Ω for 24 V 40 W.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your Value is given as infinite or near 0 Ω, your heater cartridge is broken - Though having 3 defect heater cartridges seems unlikely on first glance, unless something shortens their lifespan considerably.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;2.3 Check your supply voltage&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now comes a thing that can be &lt;strong&gt;dangerous&lt;/strong&gt; for you will measure a live circuit. Be aware that you are working with &lt;strong&gt;live current&lt;/strong&gt; when you do this. Do &lt;strong&gt;NOT&lt;/strong&gt; bring your fingers into contact with unshielded wires!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Set your Multimeter to check the Voltage. Connect the test probes to the output of the power supply that runs into the board. Power up the voltage supply. It should read close to 12 or 24V, depending on your machine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;2.4 Check the voltage given by the board&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Again, this is measuring &lt;strong&gt;live current&lt;/strong&gt; and can be &lt;strong&gt;dangerous&lt;/strong&gt;. Use maximum care not to fry yourself!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your Power supply is working, then it might be the board that is not allowing the current to get the heater cartridge. So we need to measure if it gets power. Since I=U/R, and we have established that R is not 0 or infinity (see above), we can establish if there is I by simply measuring U, which is the voltage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mount the tips of your multimeter into the clamps that should take the leads for the heater cartridge and set it to measure the Voltage. Make sure they have contact. Connect the machine to power and start it up. Order it to heat up the cartridge. It should show a voltage that is similar to your supply voltage (12/24V).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;2.5 Thermosensor&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Thermosensor &lt;em&gt;might&lt;/em&gt; trigger an error if it is faulty but not entirely broken. A broken thermosensor should trigger &lt;code&gt;MINTEMP&lt;/code&gt; for a broken open and &lt;code&gt;MAXTEMP&lt;/code&gt; for a shorted out sensor. The only way to test this would be to measure it against items of known temperature, for example using the bed sensor as Benchmark.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;3 Check the Firmware&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;3.1 Thermosensor settings&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In some cases, the temperature tables of the thermosensors are not compatible and one has to change the settings for that in the firmware. One of the best rundowns I know is in the e3D &lt;a href=&quot;https://e3d-online.dozuki.com/Guide/Lite6+Marlin+Configuration/27?lang=en&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;light6&lt;/a&gt;/&lt;a href=&quot;https://e3d-online.dozuki.com/Guide/V6+Marlin+Configuration/5?lang=en&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;v6&lt;/a&gt; firmware manual, if you need more help than this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the Marlin 1.9 you do this in &lt;code&gt;Configuation.h&lt;/code&gt;, under the header Thermal Settings. In my Ender 3 this is done in line 289:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#define TEMP_SENSOR_0 5&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That means, that my temperature sensor 0 (the one in the hotend) is of type 5, where type 5 is defined in the block above. The relevant line 256 of my file reads:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt; *     5 : 100K thermistor - ATC Semitec 104GT-2 (Used in ParCan &amp;amp; J-Head) (4.7k pullup)&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The most common choice in Chinese hotends to use this very 4.7-kiloohm pullup thermistor table, and the actual specific table for most of these is reasonably close to the 5. Other thermosensors can be reasonably overlapping, but in case you change the style of thermosensor, it is generally advised to change this value accordingly&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;. &lt;strong&gt;Always&lt;/strong&gt; run a PID tuning after changing the thermosensor table!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;3.2 Thermal Runaway Protection&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The settings for the Thermal Runaway Protection might be worth a look. Maybe it is a little trigger happy? &lt;code&gt;Configuration_adv.h&lt;/code&gt; contains a block titled Thermal Settings, containing when to trigger the emergency shutdown. For my Ender3 it reads like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#if ENABLED(THERMAL_PROTECTION_HOTENDS)&#xA;  #define THERMAL_PROTECTION_PERIOD 40        // Seconds&#xA;  #define THERMAL_PROTECTION_HYSTERESIS 4     // Degrees Celsius&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From your error log, I guess that your printer has the second line as 30 seconds. It would be technically safe to increase this time to up to 120 seconds, but I strongly suggest not to go over 60 seconds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1 - I had switched the whole hotend on my TronXY X1 for an e3D light6, and it only needed a PID tune, but in &lt;em&gt;theory&lt;/em&gt; I should have also swapped the Firmware to reflect that - but, as said, luckily many Chinese printers use the table 5 even if they are not using the sensor. Table 5 was &lt;em&gt;made&lt;/em&gt; for the thermosensors used by e3D.&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:29:41.667" LastActivityDate="2019-05-15T15:54:36.820" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7617" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-12-11T17:07:33.260" Score="0" ViewCount="89" Body="&lt;p&gt;My printer stops about every 5 minutes and it gives me the error message &quot;Abnormal Extruding&quot;. I have changed the heat setting up and down on the extruder, but it doesn't help. I have adjusted the bed, the speed and the problem is still there. Can someone help, please and thank you&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13759" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-12-11T18:05:47.490" LastActivityDate="2018-12-11T18:05:47.490" Title="Abnormal Extruding" Tags="|extruder|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7618" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-12-11T19:42:35.873" Score="3" ViewCount="1981" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a reasonably new Wanhao Duplicator i3 plus that has been printing happily for a few weeks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This morning it has developed a new error.  When you hit pre-heat for PLA (target temperature 200&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C) it heats the extruder but never stops. It is like the extruder heater is permanently on. The set point doesn't make any difference. If you hit cooldown it still keeps heating up!  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At 240&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C I turned the machine off for fear of what happens next.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems only to affect the extruder heater not the bed heater. That seems to be working and following the set point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas what this is and how to fix it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13764" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-12-12T20:43:08.977" LastActivityDate="2018-12-12T20:43:08.977" Title="Wanhao Duplicator i3 plus temperature out of control" Tags="|extruder|troubleshooting|wanhao|duplicator-i3-plus|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7619" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6896" CreationDate="2018-12-12T00:25:18.953" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EOeIf.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EOeIf.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I went to OfficeMax and got some Small clips. They are bigger than the Micro/Mini clips that ship with the printer and seem to fit just right on a glass plate. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of the Mini clips that shipped with the Ender 3 is shown to the left. The Small size that works best is obviously centered. The Medium in the back seem way too big. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For an added bonus, they sell this sandpaper with a rubber back and it really increases traction. An oversize chunk of that worked really well. But it's optional.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13766" LastActivityDate="2018-12-12T00:25:18.953" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7622" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7618" CreationDate="2018-12-12T08:01:01.137" Score="2" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Thermal Runaway?!&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The temperature should not go over the &lt;code&gt;MAXTEMP&lt;/code&gt; variable set in the firmware, so permanent damage is &lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;probably avoided&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt; (when temperature doesn't exceed about 250 °C; that is about the max temperature for the PTFE liners in the hotend). In the factory setup, the Wanhao Duplicator i3 is running an instance of Marlin Firmware. In the &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/blob/bugfix-1.1.x/Marlin/Configuration.h&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;configuration.h&lt;/a&gt; file the MAXTEMP is defined like:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#define HEATER_0_MAXTEMP 275&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;for the first extruder where 275 °C is the default value, if Wanhao has changed this to a lower value (as they list their printer to print to max 240 °C) is not known.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Fixing the issue at hand&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To expand on your question:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&amp;quot;Any ideas what this is and how to fix it?&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In order for you to fix the problem you need to do some troubleshooting. You need to find out if this problem persists when not using the pre-heat function of the firmware. E.g. When you do not pre-heat, but print a PLA object, does the temperature also keeps rising? Furthermore, try to hook up a computer/laptop over USB to the printer board and try pre-heating from a software application like OctoPrint, Repetier-Host, PronterFace, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the description alone, it appears as though the gain of the onboard MOSFET is opened once requested to preheat, but never closed. This could hint to a faulty MOSFET. If you are handy with software compiling for Arduino based microchips (&lt;em&gt;please do note that this requires some thorough insight in compiling software for the Arduino platform&lt;/em&gt;), you could alter the printer configuration (not only hardware, by connecting the hotend heater and thermistor cables to the bed terminals, but also software, by switching pins in the board configuration file) to use the bed terminals to heat up the hotend (and not use the heated bed during the test, disconnect the cables of the bed), but that will most probably show that the hotend will stop at the requested temperature as the thermistor does not seem to be broken.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Simple tests that you could perform to check the functioning of the hotend/setup are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Disconnecting the thermistor leads&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;br&gt;This will effectively result in a 0 Volt reading, this is to test the MINTEMP temperature limit of your setup.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Shorting the thermistor leads&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;br&gt;This will effectively result in a full 5 Volts signal resulting in the maximum temperature reading. This exceeds the MAXTEMP temperature by far, as such it should halt heating up the heating element once shortened. You can do this even without heating up or before it reaches 240 °C.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Disconnect the Heater cartridge&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt; or&lt;br&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Take the heater cartridge out of the aluminium heater block&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;br&gt;This will effectively test the &amp;quot;Thermal Runaway Protection&amp;quot; (or short TRP) of your setup. If the thermistor does not register a temperature rise after a certain amount of seconds (in advanced configuration), the printer should detect there is something wrong and shut down/halt the printer. Disconnecting the heater cartridge is the safer way. Common TRP times are 120 seconds and less.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:29:41.667" LastActivityDate="2018-12-12T10:23:56.190" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7623" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4197" CreationDate="2018-12-12T10:39:50.937" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Prometheus system is pretty much a Y-coupler and two extruders. So, you need your Wanhao Duplicator i3 Plus to have the connection points for two extruders and the axis, which means you need one free, 4 wire connection slot from a stepper driver. So, let's look what kind of board is in there...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/L5c0B.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/L5c0B.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;the Wanhao Duplicator i3+ Mainboard&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This Melzi Hypbrid is the mainboard the Duplicator uses, similar to a lot of other Melzi derivates (itself as it seems a Sanguino Derivate). The green 4-pin terminal is the extruder. There is only one of these. So it is not useable with Prometheus. You would need to get a mainboard that is able to run dual extruders.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2018-12-13T08:55:31.243" LastActivityDate="2018-12-13T08:55:31.243" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7624" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-12-12T13:07:12.257" Score="5" ViewCount="806" Body="&lt;p&gt;We're printing on a WASP 3MT pellet extruder with PLA. To save time, we're leaving the hotend at 160&amp;nbsp;°C between prints but realized that the print quality varies, from one print to the another, when using the same G-code file. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could it be that leaving the temperature at 160&amp;nbsp;°C constantly creates more fluid PLA and therefore affects the following print?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13783" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-12-12T15:54:14.933" LastActivityDate="2018-12-12T18:05:57.087" Title="Can leaving the nozzle at 160 °C continuously on in between prints affect the viscosity of the prints?" Tags="|nozzle|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7625" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-12-12T14:01:18.640" Score="2" ViewCount="660" Body="&lt;p&gt;Initially when I built it, it turned on and the LCD worked. I had an issue with the Z axis but I think that's unrelated to my current issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The next day when powering on the LCD just showed black squares.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I contacted Geeetech who suggested replugging the LCD, removing the A4998 and testing or updating the firmware with Arduino 1.0.1.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first 2 had no effect so I tried the firmware.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've installed Arduino and have the right firmware, but the issue I'm having is it doesn't look like anything is passing from my laptop to the GT2560 board when I upload. The error message I am getting is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;avrdude: stk500v2_ReceiveMessage(): timeout&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have 2 green LEDs on, one next to the USB and one next to the power, and an orange LED near the CPU. None flash when I try to upload the script. I cannot also burn a bootloader, getting an &quot;usb not found&quot; error. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've tried other things I've seen online, such as pressing reset just after trying to upload - this doesn't work either. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm laptop runs ubuntu, and I've also tried with a windows PC.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Hi Andrew and welcome to 3D Printing.SE! This happened to me before, usually it is related to the USB port not being available or in use by another program. Please look into this or this and update your question by edit that you tried those answers. – 0scar 1 hour ago &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have tried the above links and don't find anything that helps. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Main points:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I don't see a flashing LED at any point.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I have tried pressing reset when uploading - this hasn't helped.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I have tried to burn a bootloader - again, I get an &quot;usb not found&quot; error. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it helps, I've also unplugged everything else from my 3D printer that was connected to the GT2560 other than USB and Power.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13784" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-12-12T15:56:24.787" LastActivityDate="2018-12-12T15:56:24.787" Title="Geeetech Prusa I3 Pro W. Cannot update firmware" Tags="|prusa-i3|diy-3d-printer|geeetech|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7626" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7624" CreationDate="2018-12-12T14:43:32.840" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;PLA starts to change its properties at above its glass transition temperature of 60-65&amp;nbsp;°C, if stored there too long. Keeping it at 160°C, close to the melting temperature (173-178&amp;nbsp;°C) can degrade the material relatively rapidly. During an extrusion, this is usually mitigated by filling fresh material into the melt while the older material gets extruded, but keeping the machine stagnant at the high temperature has not only creep the heat up from the designated melt zone (thus preheating material that should not be preheated yet) but also can damage the material deep in the melt zone. Together with this possible material degradation, the preheated material melts faster and might overshoot the aimed at print temperature until the normal temperature is reached again. Both effects can lead to reduced print quality in the lower layers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The time saving from keeping the filament heated up for an extended period of time is, &lt;strong&gt;in my opinion&lt;/strong&gt;, not worth the quality reduction that can come from using non-uniform material. You pay &lt;em&gt;more&lt;/em&gt; in lost prints than you save in time for heating up the head.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it is impossible to not keep the hotend heated between prints, it might be advisable try these:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Starting every print with a larger purging operation might get rid of degraded material. It would be as simple as extruding some quantity of material before starting the actual print at the edge of the build plate.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Aside from purging, it might be a good idea to reduce the hold temperature from 160&amp;nbsp;°C to a lower temperature, allowing the melt to partly solidify and keep the heat creep in check.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-12-12T15:57:54.567" LastActivityDate="2018-12-12T15:57:54.567" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7627" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7624" CreationDate="2018-12-12T15:03:54.187" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;With a bottoming value of being printable at 180&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C you are basically cooking the filament at 160&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C. If done a prolonged time, carbonization will take place as the more volatile parts will slowly be gassed out and part from the melt first. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you start extruding after a certain time, you will need to get rid of the goo inside, this can lead to (partial) clogs and inconsistent printing. You should either lower it much further or not leaving it on at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-12-12T15:57:19.433" LastActivityDate="2018-12-12T15:57:19.433" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7628" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7624" CreationDate="2018-12-12T18:05:57.087" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I leave the extruder working at 190°C between printings up to for 20 minutes while I made the change; this only provoques that the nozzle gets empty; nothing gets burned or clogged. Once to start againg just feed a little more of filament manualy or waits to the skirt do the cleaning and refilling the nozzle. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Normally at this temperature (190°C) the nozzle gets empty in the next 2 minutes due normal melting flow. I can assure that your printings will be like water drops.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4454" LastActivityDate="2018-12-12T18:05:57.087" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7629" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4592" CreationDate="2018-12-12T23:30:16.473" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;OK, I have found the first piece of this puzzle.&#xA;&quot;The Raise3D printers listen on TCP port 31625 for remote control from ideaMaker.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6417" LastActivityDate="2018-12-12T23:30:16.473" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7630" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-12-13T00:12:00.250" Score="3" ViewCount="193" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is a home 3D printer capable of printing a good bicycle air pump?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've searched the Internet and there is very limited info on it. Things need to be rigid and very minutious in the valve part of the pump. I could give an example of what I thought in the image &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cFuku.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cFuku.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13795" LastActivityDate="2018-12-13T10:09:19.540" Title="Bicycle air pump project" Tags="|3d-design|quality|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7632" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7630" CreationDate="2018-12-13T09:16:13.360" Score="2" Body="&lt;h1&gt;depends&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You certainly can print &lt;em&gt;parts&lt;/em&gt; of &lt;strong&gt;a&lt;/strong&gt; bicycle pump, for example, the outer case and maybe the inner piston, maybe even the housing for the connection valves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, you cant print the buffer spring or the valves itself. You will have trouble printing the adapters. And you will have to print in ABS to smooth the inside of your pump with acetone vapor, so you have a smooth surface that forms an air seal under operation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It would be cheaper and more durable to just print just the fittings and use a PVC Pipe as the cylinder itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As in all things, if this is a &lt;strong&gt;good&lt;/strong&gt; pump depends a lot on design and your machine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:29:41.667" LastActivityDate="2018-12-13T09:16:13.360" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7633" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7630" CreationDate="2018-12-13T10:09:19.540" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It should be possible to print such a product. You should be printing this in a tough material at a fine layer resolution and probably need to machine the inside of the cylinder or use grease and use a rubber valve. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2018-12-13T10:09:19.540" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7634" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7635" CreationDate="2018-12-13T16:49:09.920" Score="5" ViewCount="4595" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm using a Monoprice Maker Select v2 (a Monoprice-branded Wanhao i3 duplicator) and would like to calibrate temperature readings for my hotend.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I used a thermal probe on my multimeter to determine the hotend is running about 5 degrees C above it's reported temperature (setting it to 200 degrees reads 205 on the multimeter).  I measured this by placing the thermal problem partly into the hole where the printers thermistor resides.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I use Marlin 1.9 for firmware and ideally would calibrate it there--I'd prefer the readouts to be accurate rather than relying on offsets to compensate.  What's the process for recalibrating the hotend temperature readings?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13743" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-12-10T06:15:00.793" LastActivityDate="2021-01-28T04:44:55.823" Title="How do I calibrate the temperature of my hotend?" Tags="|calibration|hotend|wanhao|monoprice-maker-select|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7635" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7634" CreationDate="2018-12-13T18:16:47.960" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Unless you are using a calibrated temperature sensor, it is a question what the temperature will be. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Actually it doesn't really matter what the temperature exactly is, you just need to find the sweet spot for your filaments on your machine. With respect to reported temperatures by others, your settings may differ a little, but that does not matter. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2018-12-13T18:16:47.960" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7636" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7637" CreationDate="2018-12-13T20:59:38.797" Score="3" ViewCount="2557" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am attempting to follow &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6483/how-do-i-calibrate-the-extruder-of-my-printer&quot;&gt;these instructions to calibrate the extruder&lt;/a&gt;, however when I increase the value for &lt;code&gt;DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT&lt;/code&gt; the change in physical output does not correspond with the changes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I started by testing how much filament goes through the extruder when sending &lt;code&gt;G1 E100 F100&lt;/code&gt; to my printer, instead of the 100 mm I get about 38 mm (&lt;code&gt;#define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT   { 80, 80, 400, 93 }&lt;/code&gt; in Marlin). I increased the value to &lt;code&gt;DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT   { 80, 80, 400, 149.73 }&lt;/code&gt; which should take it to 100 mm, when I tested the physical output the increase was only negligible so I repeated the calculation with &lt;code&gt;DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT   { 80, 80, 400, 387.8007 }&lt;/code&gt; as the new value. The new physical output is about 64 mm, I think this suggests a mechanical problem rather than a firmware configuration problem, but I am not sure where to go from here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My printer is the Ender 3, running Marlin 1.1.9 with a BlTouch and an &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07DDGGN92/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;psc=1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;aluminium bowden extruder mod&lt;/a&gt; &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TaeJ3.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TaeJ3.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;extruder&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;(installed after the extrusion problem began).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any help you can give will be greatly appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13327" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-12-13T22:33:14.210" LastActivityDate="2018-12-17T12:35:30.840" Title="When I attempt to calibrate extruder steps the increased values don't correspond to physical increases" Tags="|extruder|extrusion|creality-ender-3|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7637" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7636" CreationDate="2018-12-13T22:24:53.570" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Mechanical?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You basically answer your own question that there could be a mechanical issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If 93 steps gives you 38 mm, to get to 100 mm, you need to divide 100 by 38 = 2.63 times. This implies that you need 2.63 x 93 = 244.7 steps/mm (not 149.73).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You even tried close to 400 steps per mm to see you are not extruding 100 mm of filament. This implies that you are either missing a lot of steps (increasing the stepper current or increasing the temperature of the hotend would help out) or the extruder gear slips on the filament (increasing the pressure on the extruder gear and filament could solve this).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Or not mechanical?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Furthermore, it could be another issue than mechanical. If your extrusion rate is too fast, the stepper might not be able to cope the high speed and miss steps. I have had this before with a too high of a retraction speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-12-17T12:35:30.840" LastActivityDate="2018-12-17T12:35:30.840" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7638" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-12-13T22:46:32.917" Score="2" ViewCount="3243" Body="&lt;p&gt;I tried out printing a &quot;bridge&quot; for the first time using this &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:284380&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Bridge Calibration model&lt;/a&gt;. The model creator suggests printing, tweaking settings, and printing again until it works &quot;properly.&quot; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My first try worked reasonably well, but the underside of the bridge is pretty rough and stringy. But I don't know what a &quot;good bridge&quot; is supposed to look like.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/htfAV.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/htfAV.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;printed bridge&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How smooth should the underside of the bridge be? Any suggestions for what changes I should make to my slicer settings? Here is what I have currently:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/87qVV.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/87qVV.png&quot; alt=&quot;slicer settings for bridging&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a picture of my hotend on my Monoprice Maker Select Plus, as requested:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JxNbw.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JxNbw.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;hotend of Monoprice Maker Select Plus&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5446" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2018-12-14T06:47:05.273" LastActivityDate="2019-01-13T17:02:10.440" Title="What should the underside of a bridge look like?" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|slicing|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7639" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7638" CreationDate="2018-12-14T04:18:33.530" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The idea of the part fan is to cool the plastic as quickly as possible once it is extruded in order to keep it in the correct spot. The slower that the plastic solidifies, the more the plastic will sag when printing overhangs/bridges. The stock part cooling fan/duct on your printer, Monoprice Maker Select Plus, is  not all that great and would probably benefit from an upgrade. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as the Cura settings you posted, you should turn off most all of those experimental bridge settings. Your printer will still be able to print bridges without the 'Enable Bridge Settings' checked. The only one that would be useful is the the 'Bridge Skin Speed' since reducing the print speed effectively increases the air flow on the extruded plastic. More over you are turning off the fan for the 2nd and 3rd bridge skin layers which will cause them to sag even further.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11097" LastActivityDate="2018-12-14T04:18:33.530" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7640" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7634" CreationDate="2018-12-14T06:54:05.163" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Temperature from thermosensors gets collected as a resistance value that changes with temperature. The chip in your board decides the temperature from this value based on a temperature-resistance table.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are using Marlin Firmware, the setting which table is referenced by your machine to get its values is written under the header Thermal Settings inside &lt;code&gt;Confinguration.h&lt;/code&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastActivityDate="2018-12-14T06:54:05.163" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7642" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7644" CreationDate="2018-12-14T12:17:54.893" Score="2" ViewCount="2445" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have this sketch which I have accidantly rotated by some arbitary angle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I need the dotted line to be parallel with the x-axis and the small, left hand side to be flush with the y-axis.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've tried using the &lt;code&gt;Align&lt;/code&gt; function, but can't seem to get htat to work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ive tried rotating the sketch, but I can't see a way to measure the angle it's off by in order to specify how far to rotate it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm very new to Fusion 360, and CAD in general so it's probably something really simple.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FocbR.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FocbR.png&quot; alt=&quot;Sketch needs rotating.&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13813" LastActivityDate="2018-12-14T14:11:43.570" Title="How to align sketch with the x-axis" Tags="|fusion360|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7644" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7642" CreationDate="2018-12-14T14:11:43.570" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's rather simple:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Start to edit the sketch with this line via a right-click &lt;code&gt;edit sketch&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;click the line you want to force horizontal&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;on the right menu, the lower menu has &quot;align horitontal/vertical&quot;, click it&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;DONE&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To find the button I mean, a picture with the right tool next to the red mark:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vYKsk.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vYKsk.png&quot; alt=&quot;The alignment tool icons. Marked red: the 8th (horizontal/vertical). Marked blue: the 12th (symmetry).&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hint: in the case of your item, I suggest to use the blue marked symmetry on the two lines you forced to be equal:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;first choose the lines (SHIFT)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;choose the tool&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;click the symmetry line (in your case: the construction line)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastActivityDate="2018-12-14T14:11:43.570" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7645" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8031" CreationDate="2018-12-14T14:52:34.647" Score="3" ViewCount="6772" Body="&lt;p&gt;A couple of prints after leveling the bed (&amp;lt;10), I noticed some weird sound, and saw the nozzle scratching the build-plate. &#xA;What is really weird, is that I noticed (My printer is in quite a dark edge, so the build plate isn't really illuminated), that there were some scratches from a print before, but it worked fine with the prints in between.&#xA;So my question is, how that might have happened, could it be also software issues (Maybe some mistakes converting to gcode?), or is this propably purely a mechanical issue?&#xA;Furthermore, I'd like to ask whether this may cause any problems, e.g. massively reducing print quality, or weakening the grip of the prints.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm using the Tevo Michelangelo 3D, with manual leveling (it drives to the positions, but one has to tighten/loose the screws).&#xA;Note that &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/7332/tevo-michelangelo-nozzle-below-build-plate&quot;&gt;I might have overtightened the screws in the beginning&lt;/a&gt;. Another thing I noticed is that the screws on one side tend to be more loose than the other ones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ROEST.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ROEST.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Build plate&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12573" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-01-21T22:19:59.327" LastActivityDate="2019-06-21T00:03:05.473" Title="Scratches in the build plate - How did this happen, and may it cause problems?" Tags="|nozzle|bed-leveling|build-plate|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7646" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7638" CreationDate="2018-12-14T15:03:54.610" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;A good bridging underside looks preferably like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AjRPl.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AjRPl.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Bridging bottom side view made by: Dave&amp;#39;s Stuff - Dave Hylands&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This means straight long lines that have minimally sagged out. Why long straight lines? If they are straight and do nut sag out much, it is far more easier for the next layers to build upon. Please look at the difference between the above image and your own image, it looks as though you are missing more layers as the first bridge layer failed for others to build upon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The idea is to get straight lines of filament from one to the other side. Knowing that filament is hot when you extrude it, it is difficult to bridge large gaps. It is impossible to think that enough part cooling will be enough to prevent sagging of the filament and have a perfect finishing at the bridge, there will always be sagging strands of plastic there. The idea for getting a good bridge (for other layers to build upon) is that you you need to solidify the hot filament as fast as possible to reduce the sagging. It is often best to reduce print speed and making sure your fans cool the extruded filament strands rapidly so that they become solid and stiff as quickly as possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-12-14T16:47:20.560" LastActivityDate="2018-12-14T16:47:20.560" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7647" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-12-14T17:07:14.997" Score="3" ViewCount="4531" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm attemping my first print where I pause the print, change the filament, and resume to achieve a two-color print.  My first attempt failed when the printer resumed printing over a centimeter away from where it should have on the X axis.  My second attempt was much better, but still resumed about 1.5mm off-target.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's specifically what I did:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Loaded the STL in Cura, the design has a 1mm &quot;base&quot; with an additional 1mm design on top of the base.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I used Cura's &quot;Pause at Height&quot; feature to specify the printer should pause after completing the first 1mm.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I sent the print to Octoprint, via the Cura plugin.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The pause began and went as-expected for the first 1mm.  It paused after finishing the layer, as expected.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;To switch filament I used the controls to raise the nozzle by 1cm, then moved it to home (X/Y, away from the print).  I swapped filaments, hand-feeding the 2nd color until the old color was no longer coming out the nozzle, then gently cleaned up the nozzle.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I lowered the nozzle back to the height it paused at (down 1cm), then resumed the print.  The printer moved the X/Y back to the print and resumed.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm guessing either I shouldn't move the printer head away from the print when changing filament, or perhaps need to re-home after the new filament is in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What should I do to resume a print precisely where it paused?  Is there a better approach?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13743" LastActivityDate="2018-12-14T18:32:49.480" Title="My first attempt at pausing a print and changing filaments resumed from the wrong position -- how do I troubleshoot?" Tags="|filament|ultimaker-cura|multi-material|change-filament|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7648" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7647" CreationDate="2018-12-14T17:15:23.663" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You may have moved the nozzle in the X or Y direction a bit. Instead of resuming right away (that is, after step 5), send it to the X/Y home.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally, if you have a removable build plate like in Prusas, you can remove the print, send the model to the X/Y/Z home, raise the nozzle very high, then replace the print&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12708" LastActivityDate="2018-12-14T17:15:23.663" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7649" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7647" CreationDate="2018-12-14T17:57:46.697" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You are out of luck:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Print gcode is written in relative coordinates. If you move the printhead manually, the printer does not know this, and will just follow its relative path from the new position - which is what commonly is called layer-shifting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To try to mitigate this, there are ways, but they are a little tricky:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If your printer has a &lt;em&gt;change filament&lt;/em&gt; option, then choose that - this saves the absolute position of the printhead before moving it to X0Y0, then usually extracts the filament and waits for the new filament to be inserted and the printer waits till given a resume-OK. Then it will move to the saves absolute position, and resume the code from the point it paused.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If your printer has a &lt;em&gt;pause&lt;/em&gt; option that moves the printhead to X0Y0, this can be used, using a manual extraction. Resuming the print will be easy.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Some slicers support to call &quot;Change filament at layer X&quot;, which will call a move to X0Y0 and pause, allowing manual change even if the normal pause behavior is not to move to X0Y0.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you see: NO manual commands are given here! You can not move the printhead up/down/sideways without having a good chance of inducing a layer shift.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Pause behavior can be adjusted in the firmware.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2018-12-14T18:32:49.480" LastActivityDate="2018-12-14T18:32:49.480" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7650" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7655" CreationDate="2018-12-14T18:15:41.023" Score="2" ViewCount="732" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a FlashForge Creator Pro. It is equipped with the board revision V SF7.7.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My Right extruder prints great, however, the left does not work at all. I have tried to diagnose the cause, but at this point, I feel all the mechanicals are working and it's coming down to logic boards. I don't know what and how to test these. The main problem is like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When I order to Load/Unload Filament the motor does not advance&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When printing from the left extruder, filament does not come out.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have done the following tests:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The hotend works and the nozzle is clear. I can push filament through when it is hot.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Teeth are in great shape, unclogged and perfectly aligned with the &quot;V&quot; on the guide wheel.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The Stepper motor is functional. I can perform the LED test on both pairs of leads and 3V LED lights are up when the motor is turned.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The Stepper cable is OK. I tested continuity on all 4 wires and they are fine.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The Connectors are fine and well-seated.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Voltage to Stepper Driver board: 5.0V when the machine is powered ON&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have however encountered these tests that seemed to show a fail:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When I set the left extruder to &quot;Unload Filament&quot; the voltage across both pairs of leads is 0V&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I continue troubleshooting and fixing the machine?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13816" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2019-08-31T09:26:44.390" LastActivityDate="2019-08-31T09:26:44.390" Title="Extruder_2 Stepper Motor does not work" Tags="|troubleshooting|stepper-driver|flashforge-creator|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7651" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7652" CreationDate="2018-12-14T18:19:40.210" Score="3" ViewCount="6531" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a bunch of ball bearings (608 2RS) that I'm planning on using in a project with printed parts. But I'm not sure how to attach and secure them properly.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How is this done usually?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13813" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2018-12-14T19:36:17.570" LastActivityDate="2018-12-16T19:30:52.607" Title="How to attach a metal bearing to a print" Tags="|3d-design|post-processing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2018-12-30T23:00:30.640" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7652" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7651" CreationDate="2018-12-14T18:36:50.577" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ball bearings are usually fitted in one style, no matter what is the material that they are embedded in: &lt;strong&gt;press fit&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Press fit&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To get a good press fit, the part will have to have a hole that is the diameter of the bearing (22 mm) plus a little margin that depends on your printer and filament. From my own experience, a design with 22.1 mm to 22.4 mm diameter resulted in a near-enough 22mm hole that gave decent fit. Your design will need to be adjusted depending on the material and resolution of the printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that in the case of machined metal parts, the hole usually is not exactly 22mm but a coupe thau (=1/1000 inch) smaller as the bearings get pressed into the hole with a hydraulic press. They do deliberately deform the bearing and workpiece a tiny bit to sit perfectly. If you make the hole &lt;em&gt;too much too small&lt;/em&gt;, the printed parts could break under the stress such treatment puts them under. However, if done just right the ring itself will deform just enough to fit the bearing's casing, as long as it is flexible enough. I have experienced prints of 2 wall thickness with 15-20% infill to allow a little bit of flex, which resulted in them applying quite some tension on a set of three screws: the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2275654&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Slider for 2040 Openbuild V-slot by FabianFriethjoph&lt;/a&gt; does use this effect from PLA to force the wheels into the guide rail just enough to prevent wobble.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since most filaments shrink, you might still need to use a larger-than 22 mm hole in design to get just a couple thau under the 22 mm you want for the perfect press fit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Adjustable position&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In &lt;em&gt;some&lt;/em&gt; cases, ball bearings are fitted into larger holes, and then fastened and adjusted with a set of 3 setscrews - their seat can be changed slightly to compensate for warp or shear of the whole item. However, printed plastics are bad at holding a thread, and it would be a very good idea to include a metal insert with the thread. For example, you could include a nut in the middle of the ring holding the bearing, or you might use metal inserts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Capping&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even if one uses a snug press fit or adjustable position, it can be a good idea to use a cap that makes sure the bearing can't fall out of its area without removing the cap first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:29:41.667" LastActivityDate="2018-12-16T19:30:52.607" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7655" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7650" CreationDate="2018-12-14T20:20:58.507" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The next logical step is to swap the working board with the one that powers the misbehaving motor. If this fixes the motor but makes the other one stop working, it hints that the stepper driver board might be broken. If it does not fix the motor but the right motor works again, while the left is not, then the motors or the board controlling the stepper drivers might be broken.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As changing the driver boards did (as OP said) swap the problem from the left to the right extruder, it is extremely likely that the board that was originally left is defective in some way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Getting a replacement part might be in order, and until then, running with a single extruder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2018-12-16T12:47:05.640" LastActivityDate="2018-12-16T12:47:05.640" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7656" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-12-14T23:30:45.947" Score="0" ViewCount="488" Body="&lt;p&gt;My y-axis is running in reverse and slamming into the front of the machine. This is not ideal for my needs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I need to connect to it with the Repetier-Host software to fix this, and in general. This connects fine via USB, but then says &lt;code&gt;Unknown printer firmw... Waiting for temperature&lt;/code&gt;. Sending further commands does nothing as far as I can see.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know what I need to install to get this working?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13820" LastActivityDate="2018-12-15T08:40:56.420" Title="How to connect a Geeetech Prusa I3 Pro B to Repetier-Host on mac" Tags="|repetier|repetier-host|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7659" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7656" CreationDate="2018-12-15T07:09:53.163" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is not a direct answer to your question, but a solution for your problem. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If a motor is running in reverse, there are at least 2 solutions. You can reverse the connector of the leads to the stepper, or flash new firmware where you reverse the stepper in the configuration file. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The most effective and fast solution is to reverse the connector of rearrange the wires in the connector.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-12-15T08:40:56.420" LastActivityDate="2018-12-15T08:40:56.420" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7660" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-12-15T11:41:11.013" Score="4" ViewCount="6259" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am trying to get my first layer calibrating done but no matter what I do, I can not get the lines sticking to the bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My first question is the distance of the P.I.N.D.A. What I did was what Prusa recommends on &lt;a href=&quot;https://d17kynu4zpq5hy.cloudfront.net/igi/prusa3d/KtMljQEIWfs5QXJV.medium&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this pic&lt;/a&gt;: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dIH7j.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Annotated photo of leveling probe and printbed&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dIH7j.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Annotated photo of leveling probe and printbed&quot; title=&quot;Annotated photo of leveling probe and printbed&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am using Prusa Slic3r with PLA and all default values. I am doing the first layer calibration of the setup menu and got the lines which you can remove and the last square which the nozzle is picking up so you don't have it on the print bed. The very first line on the left corner is not really squeezed. I am looking for some greenhorn help here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13825" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-12-15T14:24:00.487" LastActivityDate="2018-12-18T22:53:47.673" Title="Prusa i3 MK3 latest release first layer calibration issues" Tags="|prusa-i3|layer-height|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7661" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7673" CreationDate="2018-12-15T15:47:26.457" Score="2" ViewCount="5712" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Monoprice Maker Ultimate 3D printer (a rebranded Wanhao Duplicator 6) and out of the box the hotend temps when set to 200 would vary between 190 and 210. I used repetier-host to run &lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/wiki/PID_Tuning&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;PID tuning&lt;/a&gt; and stored the last set of values it gave when it finished, however I'm still seeing around 5 degree temp swings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a screenshot of the temp during a Benchy print from Octoprint:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/I3HxO.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/I3HxO.png&quot; alt=&quot;Temperature swings&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried PID tuning again, which gave different values, but basically the same results. Is there anything I can do to improve this? The Maker Select Plus I had only seemed to vary +/- 1 degree so I'm assuming this is more than expected. (I don't actually know what the implications are, so I don't know whether it is/will affect my print quality).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there another way of tuning (I don't fancy manually tweaking numbers and testing for hours), or if I do more than 8 cycles (the default on the Wiki page linked above) would that improve the accuracy?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13607" LastActivityDate="2018-12-16T22:44:51.240" Title="How to reduce +/- 5 degree temp swings of hotend (after PID tuning)" Tags="|calibration|hotend|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7662" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-12-15T16:19:25.017" Score="2" ViewCount="675" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found the pause_print() function in Marlin_main.cpp but when I search the rest of the files I cannot find the file that calls this function. I expected to find it somewhere in the file that controls the LCD menu but it only exists in main.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What file has the function calls that happen when I select a menu option from the LCD?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And why isn't pause_print() showing up elsewhere as a function call?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13829" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2018-12-16T12:56:13.813" LastActivityDate="2018-12-16T12:56:13.813" Title="Marlin firmware function call location for menu commands?" Tags="|marlin|firmware|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7663" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-12-15T17:32:27.617" Score="1" ViewCount="29" Body="&lt;p&gt;I got this model of a dragon off thingiverse and am printing it, but after it ran for a while, I realized that the there are multiple points that the print will try to print onto air since it did not put any support structure there, even though I selected &quot;everywhere&quot;. My first questions is, why would it do this? and secondly, is there any way to remedy this?&#xA;I wanted to attach the picture of what it looks like, but I'm not sure how.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13831" LastActivityDate="2018-12-15T17:32:27.617" Title="Support not where needed" Tags="|support-structures|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="7" ClosedDate="2018-12-30T23:01:55.947" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7664" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7662" CreationDate="2018-12-15T20:49:45.970" Score="2" Body="&lt;h1&gt;This function is called by the g-codes M125 and M600&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I could find &lt;code&gt;ADVANCED_PAUSE_FEATURE&lt;/code&gt; defined in &lt;code&gt;configuration_adv.h&lt;/code&gt; and called in &lt;code&gt;Conditionals_post.h&lt;/code&gt;, trice in &lt;code&gt;Marlin.h&lt;/code&gt;, referenced as needed for M600 in &lt;code&gt;Marlin_Main.ccp&lt;/code&gt; and mentioned 2 times.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In &lt;code&gt;Marlin_Main.ccp&lt;/code&gt; it also declares the function &lt;code&gt;pause_print&lt;/code&gt; in line 6482 to 6571. Its start and end are these:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;static bool pause_print(const float &amp;amp;retract, const point_t &amp;amp;park_point, const float &amp;amp;unload_length = 0,&#xA;                          const int8_t max_beep_count = 0, const bool show_lcd = false&#xA;  ) {&#xA;    if (move_away_flag) return false; // already paused&#xA;&#xA;    #ifdef ACTION_ON_PAUSE&#xA;      SERIAL_ECHOLNPGM(&quot;//action:&quot; ACTION_ON_PAUSE);&#xA;    #endif&#xA;&#xA;[...]&#xA;&#xA;    HOTEND_LOOP()&#xA;    thermalManager.start_heater_idle_timer(e, nozzle_timeout);&#xA;&#xA;    return true;&#xA;  }&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This function does define the pause state, and relies on the &lt;code&gt;ADVANCED_PAUSE_FEATURE&lt;/code&gt; in some cases. But what calls it? Simple enough, both calls are in the same &lt;code&gt;Marlin_Main.ccp&lt;/code&gt; that defines it. The calls are in the functions that are used for filament change:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;code&gt;gcode_M125&lt;/code&gt;&lt;sup&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/blob/86b65e52c4dd72cf55a3f943fd861602d8421772/Marlin/Marlin_main.cpp#L8534&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;line 8534&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt; (Save current position and move to filament change position)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;code&gt;gcode_M600&lt;/code&gt;&lt;sup&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/blob/86b65e52c4dd72cf55a3f943fd861602d8421772/Marlin/Marlin_main.cpp#L9939&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;line 9939&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt; (Pause for filament change: &quot;M600 X Y Z E L&quot;)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2018-12-16T12:08:00.900" LastActivityDate="2018-12-16T12:08:00.900" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7665" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-12-15T22:24:44.613" Score="1" ViewCount="2666" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can anyone help me with the correct wiring between an Arduino Uno and a GT2560 board to install the bootloader using the Arduinio as the ISP.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to follow this video&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2N1zgX8Gv54&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2N1zgX8Gv54&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But crucially the wiring diagram provided shows 5 connections, but the video shows 6 and they're obscured so it's not clear what was done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At present I'm getting the following error&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;code&gt;avrdude: Device signature = 0x000000&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would appreciate any help offered.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Update.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Based on advice received, here is my wiring - I'm still getting the same error. I've checked this several times so apologies if I can't follow basic instructions!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aYzj6.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aYzj6.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Arduino Uno view&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6br35.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6br35.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;GT2560 view 1&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sGuMl.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sGuMl.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;GT2560 view 2&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The full error log is as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Arduino: 1.6.8 (Linux), Board: &quot;Arduino/Genuino Mega or Mega 2560, ATmega2560 (Mega 2560)&quot;&#xA;&#xA;/home/andy/Desktop/arduino-1.6.8/hardware/tools/avr/bin/avrdude -C/home/andy/Desktop/arduino-1.6.8/hardware/tools/avr/etc/avrdude.conf -v -patmega2560 -cstk500v1 -P/dev/ttyACM0 -b19200 &amp;gt;-e -Ulock:w:0x3F:m -Uefuse:w:0xFD:m -Uhfuse:w:0xD8:m -Ulfuse:w:0xFF:m &#xA;&#xA;avrdude: Version 6.0.1, compiled on Apr 14 2015 at 19:04:16&#xA;         Copyright (c) 2000-2005 Brian Dean, http://www.bdmicro.com/&#xA;         Copyright (c) 2007-2009 Joerg Wunsch&#xA;&#xA;         System wide configuration file is &quot;/home/andy/Desktop/arduino-1.6.8/hardware/tools/avr/etc/&amp;gt;avrdude.conf&quot;&#xA;         User configuration file is &quot;/home/andy/.avrduderc&quot;&#xA;         User configuration file does not exist or is not a regular file, skipping&#xA;&#xA;         Using Port                    : /dev/ttyACM0&#xA;         Using Programmer              : stk500v1&#xA;         Overriding Baud Rate          : 19200&#xA;         AVR Part                      : ATmega2560&#xA;         Chip Erase delay              : 9000 us&#xA;         PAGEL                         : PD7&#xA;         BS2                           : PA0&#xA;         RESET disposition             : dedicated&#xA;         RETRY pulse                   : SCK&#xA;         serial program mode           : yes&#xA;         parallel program mode         : yes&#xA;         Timeout                       : 200&#xA;         StabDelay                     : 100&#xA;         CmdexeDelay                   : 25&#xA;         SyncLoops                     : 32&#xA;         ByteDelay                     : 0&#xA;         PollIndex                     : 3&#xA;         PollValue                     : 0x53&#xA;         Memory Detail                 :&#xA;&#xA;                                  Block Poll               Page                       Polled&#xA;           Memory Type Mode Delay Size  Indx Paged  Size   Size #Pages MinW  MaxW   ReadBack&#xA;           ----------- ---- ----- ----- ---- ------ ------ ---- ------ ----- ----- ---------&#xA;           eeprom        65    10     8    0 no       4096    8      0  9000  9000 0x00 0x00&#xA;           flash         65    10   256    0 yes    262144  256   1024  4500  4500 0x00 0x00&#xA;           lfuse          0     0     0    0 no          1    0      0  9000  9000 0x00 0x00&#xA;           hfuse          0     0     0    0 no          1    0      0  9000  9000 0x00 0x00&#xA;           efuse          0     0     0    0 no          1    0      0  9000  9000 0x00 0x00&#xA;           lock           0     0     0    0 no          1    0      0  9000  9000 0x00 0x00&#xA;           calibration    0     0     0    0 no          1    0      0     0     0 0x00 0x00&#xA;           signature      0     0     0    0 no          3    0      0     0     0 0x00 0x00&#xA;&#xA;         Programmer Type : STK500&#xA;         Description     : Atmel STK500 Version 1.x firmware&#xA;         Hardware Version: 2&#xA;         Firmware Version: 1.18&#xA;         Topcard         : Unknown&#xA;         Vtarget         : 0.0 V&#xA;         Varef           : 0.0 V&#xA;         Oscillator      : Off&#xA;         SCK period      : 0.1 us&#xA;&#xA;avrdude: AVR device initialized and ready to accept instructions&#xA;&#xA;Reading | ################################################## | 100% 0.02s&#xA;&#xA;avrdude: Device signature = 0x000000 (retrying)&#xA;&#xA;Reading | ################################################## | 100% 0.02s&#xA;&#xA;avrdude: Device signature = 0x000000 (retrying)&#xA;&#xA;Error while burning bootloader.&#xA;Reading | ################################################## | 100% 0.02s&#xA;&#xA;avrdude: Device signature = 0x000000&#xA;avrdude: Yikes!  Invalid device signature.&#xA;         Double check connections and try again, or use -F to override&#xA;         this check.&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;avrdude done.  Thank you.&#xA;&#xA;This report would have more information with&#xA;&quot;Show verbose output during compilation&quot;&#xA;option enabled in File -&amp;gt; Preferences.&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13784" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2018-12-18T14:31:57.113" LastActivityDate="2018-12-18T14:38:53.033" Title="Correct wiring Arduino Uno and GT2560 to install bootloader" Tags="|diy-3d-printer|geeetech|arduino|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7666" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7665" CreationDate="2018-12-15T22:52:50.420" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The video &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/2N1zgX8Gv54?t=60&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;shows 6&lt;/a&gt; in the wiring diagram, but missing one line between 1 and 5V. You can see all the pins used at &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/2N1zgX8Gv54?t=66&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this moment&lt;/a&gt; and a little better in &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/2N1zgX8Gv54?t=68&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this moment&lt;/a&gt;. The first is always the connector, the second the Arduino Uno side:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 to 5V&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2 to Ground (GND)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;3 to 10&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;5 to 11&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;10 to 12&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;9 to 13&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that the revision 3e of the genuine Arduino Uno demands to connect to different pin hoes on the left than the model in the video, &lt;strong&gt;let the labeling guide you&lt;/strong&gt;! Instead of 2nd (5V) and 6th (GND) pin-hole on the left side, you'd use the 5th (5V) and 6th or 7th (GND) on the left (counting from the power connection side) or the GND pin on the right, next to digital output 13.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to &lt;a href=&quot;https://forum.arduino.cc/index.php?topic=391742.0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;the Arduino Forum&lt;/a&gt;, you might also need a Capacity between Reset and GND on the Arduino Uno.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: According to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.geeetech.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=17120&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Geeetech&lt;/a&gt; we need a &lt;strong&gt;different&lt;/strong&gt; Pinning:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2fxFN.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2fxFN.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Newer Board Pinning&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;LCD 1 to 5V&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;LCD 2 to GND&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;SD 2 to GND&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;SD 3 to 10 (RESET)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;SD 5 to 11 (MOSI)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;SD 10 to 12 (MISO)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;SD 9 to 13 (SCK)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:29:41.667" LastActivityDate="2018-12-18T14:38:53.033" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7667" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7735" CreationDate="2018-12-16T11:54:45.253" Score="2" ViewCount="4011" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm setting up my first 3D Printer, a Prusa i3 MK2 clone. &#xA;When I try to heat the bed, nothing happens. Then Marlin throws this error after a while:  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Bed Heating Failed&#xA;PRINTER HALTED&#xA;Please reset&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In Pronterface I see this in the console:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Error:Heating failed, system stopped! Heater_ID: bed&#xA;[ERROR] Error:Heating failed, system stopped! Heater_ID: bed&#xA;&#xA;Error:Printer halted. kill() called!&#xA;[ERROR] Error:Printer halted. kill() called!&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is 0 voltage across D8 on the Ramps board, where it is connected. When I heat up the hotend, on the other hand, which is connected to D10, I see 12V across the board's D10 terminals.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bed is MK42 type.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My axes, extruder hotend and fans are working OK. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I previously burned out the 5&amp;nbsp;V regulator on my Arduino Mega by misconnecting one of the end stops. I replaced the regulator on the board and the 5&amp;nbsp;V supply seems to be working OK again. However I wondered if I might have damaged the board in some other respect? Or is there a config setting in Marlin I should change?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13832" LastEditorUserId="13832" LastEditDate="2018-12-16T18:32:04.263" LastActivityDate="2018-12-20T21:53:16.807" Title="RAMPS board - no power to heatbed" Tags="|prusa-i3|heated-bed|ramps-1.4|troubleshooting|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7669" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7667" CreationDate="2018-12-16T16:59:07.163" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Without testing the board(s) completely, by probing each component, it would be a bit hard to tell precisely. Your best bet might be to try it and see if it works ok, and if not, you'll see exactly what doesn't work... if that makes sense. Whilst not exactly the same issue, &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/3417/how-drastic-is-reversing-the-polarity-of-the-power-supply-to-a-ramps-board/6909#6909&quot;&gt;this answer&lt;/a&gt;, to the question &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/3417/how-drastic-is-reversing-the-polarity-of-the-power-supply-to-a-ramps-board&quot;&gt;How drastic is reversing the polarity of the power supply to a RAMPS board?&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;em&gt;might&lt;/em&gt; help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, after having correctly read your question (:-D), I see that you've already done the above, that I mentioned. Maybe these links will help: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,295757&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;No power to heatbed, how to test ramps for problem??&lt;/a&gt;, and;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?415,728107&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;(RAMPS)Hotend change pin from D8 to D10&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are other similar links on the RepRap Wiki. You might need to check the power MOSFET and/or the fuse. The problem is knowing whether the Arduino Mega is damaged, or the RAMPS board, or both.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, perform some of the relatively simple checks, listed below, for the:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Outputs;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;MOSFETs - in particular &lt;strong&gt;Q3&lt;/strong&gt; which is switched by &lt;code&gt;D8&lt;/code&gt;, and;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fuses - in particular, &lt;strong&gt;F2&lt;/strong&gt; (&lt;code&gt;MFR1100&lt;/code&gt; - refer to &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CNVhe.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;RAMPS Schematic&quot;&gt;schematic&lt;/a&gt; below) as it is this fuse &lt;em&gt;alone&lt;/em&gt; which provides &lt;code&gt;12V2&lt;/code&gt; which, in turn, is used by &lt;code&gt;D8&lt;/code&gt;/&lt;strong&gt;Q3&lt;/strong&gt; for the heated bed. It should be noted that there are &lt;em&gt;two&lt;/em&gt; 12&amp;nbsp;V supply lines and it is the latter which concerns the heated bed:&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;code&gt;12V&lt;/code&gt;, and;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;code&gt;12V2&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Salient points from &lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?415,728107&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;(RAMPS)Hotend change pin from D8 to D10&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Also... There is something else to be aware of. Depending on what you claim you are attaching to the RAMPS board, the pins move around. You have 3 High Power MOS-FET's. You can use the RAMPS board to drive some combination of heat bed, fan and 2 extruders. Depending on what you claim you have on your printer, the pin numbers for things move around.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I kind of doubt that is what is causing you problems... But it might be...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and check the config (bit of a long shot)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Have you checked that you don't have any error condition (such as &lt;code&gt;MAXTEMP&lt;/code&gt; or &lt;code&gt;MINTEMP&lt;/code&gt;) which prevents the hotend from being switched on?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Be wary of randomly switching outputs for high current draw devices (such as the heated bed)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Your topic says &quot;D8 to D10&quot; but if this is your heated bed, you can't&#xA;  do this. D8 is on the 11amp circuit. plugging the heated bed into D9&#xA;  or D10 goes threw the 5amp fuse and it will blow. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To test the outputs:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;But basically test the io ports&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Remove the ramps&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Setup a led and resistor in the D port you which to use (make sure led&#xA;  is the correct polarity) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;load up the blink demo program, change the port it uses to the port&#xA;  you testing.  Upload firmware (this will overwrite you current&#xA;  firmware) Does it blink? yes the IO pin is ok, no, The IO pin is dead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;repeat for all io pins you which to test&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;See &lt;a href=&quot;https://learn.adafruit.com/adafruit-arduino-lesson-1-blink/loading-the-blink-example&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;learn.adafruit.com&lt;/a&gt; for more information&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Salient points from &lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,295757&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;No power to heatbed, how to test ramps for problem??&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check the fuses&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Check the fuse (the big yellow thing). Connect you meter to ground and both sides of the fuse in turn. You should get about 12v on both.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Continuity check&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;continuity test the heated bed with it not plugged in. is it possible you have an open in your circuit?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Have you checked the cables? Also is the led coming on for D8?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The next section of the thread deals with an overheated (50&amp;nbsp;A?) MOSFET. Check the condition of that:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;ok think i found the culprit, any ideas why that blew?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hho7Q.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Burnt MOSFET&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hho7Q.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Burnt MOSFET&quot; title=&quot;Burnt MOSFET&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A couple of good points&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;With the bed I found there are 2 issues at play here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ol&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The standard MOSFET that is typically found in theese kits have an RDS that creates a fair amount of heat at 10A and at this level the&#xA;  datasheet says stick a heatsink on. Screwing a piece of metal to the&#xA;  MOSFET cures the issue I use an aluminium bracket because thats what I&#xA;  had laying around, thermal compound helps too if you have that laying&#xA;  around from a PC. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;A lot of heat beds state that they are 1.2ohms but aren't ( just a variance in manufacturing prehaps? ) sticking a cheap multimeter&#xA;  across it says this but in practice it may not be reading correctly. I&#xA;  found this out because my bed kept tripping a 11A polyfuse but was&#xA;  fine with a 12A meaning its somewhere around 1.1ohms. good news is it&#xA;  means my bed heats up slightly faster!&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;but seeming as your transistor blew I imagine the polyfuse is ok,&#xA;  watch out though you may find it slowly does kick in when the MOSFET&#xA;  works properly because if its near its tripping point it can gently&#xA;  heat up and stop the current.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A good test procedure - &lt;strong&gt;this is probably the most relevant check for your case&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;That's not the way it's wired. Check the &lt;a href=&quot;http://reprap.org/mediawiki/images/f/f6/RAMPS1.4schematic.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;schematic&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;12V input on RAMPS -- fuse -- (PS1) + output to BED&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;GND -- Source[MOSFET]Drain -- (PS2) - output to BED D8&#xA;  ---------------- Gate&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;As you can see, the MOSFET is switching the GND connection to the bed.&#xA;  There will always be +12V on the + bed terminal whenever power is on&#xA;  as long as the fuse is good. There's an LED across the + and - BED&#xA;  terminal on RAMPS to indicate voltage. If that LED is turning on when&#xA;  you turn the heated bed on from the host software, then the MOSFET is&#xA;  good. If it's not coming on, they you might have a bad MOSFET or your&#xA;  +12V supply is bad. Verify using a voltmeter across the bed terminals and across the 12V bed supply input in RAMPS.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The Prusa heated bed PCB should have a resistance around 1.1 ohm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CNVhe.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;RAMPS Schematic&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CNVhe.png&quot; alt=&quot;RAMPS Schematic&quot; title=&quot;RAMPS Schematic&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then there are some tests for the fuses. Looking at fuse &lt;strong&gt;F2&lt;/strong&gt; (the main culprit, which protects the &lt;code&gt;12V2&lt;/code&gt; circuit):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;You haven't mentioned checking the fuse yet. You should make sure that&#xA;  it's not blown. If RAMPS is still wired to the 12V power supply for&#xA;  the bed, you can check this easily witn a voltmeter between the + bed&#xA;  terminal and the ground wire from your power supply (any of the -&#xA;  terminal between the power supply and RAMPS). You should read 12V if&#xA;  the fuse is still good. If not, then the fuse is probably blown. If&#xA;  the fuse is good, then it's a problem with the MOSFET.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;You should visually check the solder pads for the MOSFET to make sure&#xA;  that all the 3 pins are still soldered well. The chip can get hot&#xA;  enough to melt the solder resulting in broken connection. Then with&#xA;  the power on, turn on the bed heater in the host software and measure&#xA;  the voltage going into the gate pin of the MOSFET. That should be the&#xA;  outside pin on the same side of the MOSFET as the + D8 terminal. You&#xA;  should see TTL voltage there (probably close to 5V). If you do, then&#xA;  it confirms that the MOSFET is bad.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;BTW, 1.5 ohm is probably too high for the bed resistance. You need to&#xA;  subtract the resistance that you measure when you touch your&#xA;  multimeter leads together. There could easily be 0.4 ohms there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;As far as checking the fuse, another way would be to turn off all the 12V power to RAMPS and check for continuity between the + bed power supply input and the + bed output on RAMPS. If the fuse is still good, this should be a short (near 0 ohms). If you disconnect the + lead to the bed, then this would be more accurate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For fuse &lt;strong&gt;F1&lt;/strong&gt;, you can do the following, although it is extremely unlikely that this has blown as the rest of the circuit is working from the &lt;code&gt;12V&lt;/code&gt; circuit: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;There's also a separate fuse for the other 12V supply input to RAMPS that powers the rest of the controller, including the AT Mega. You should check that too in a similar way. With all the power off, measure the resistance between the leads of F1 on RAMPS. You can also double check the resistance on F2 (bed 12V fuse) right next to it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That should give you something to get started on. Without knowing more details, it's hard to be more precise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4762" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-12-16T17:57:32.270" LastActivityDate="2018-12-16T17:57:32.270" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7670" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7661" CreationDate="2018-12-16T20:18:41.787" Score="0" Body="&lt;h1&gt;Software&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might want to look at your firmware. When running a PID tune, the firmware decides on a smoothing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;in Marlin, &lt;code&gt;configuration.h&lt;/code&gt; contains a line that determines how much the machine shall try to work out the curves. For my ender 3 it reads:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#define PID_K1 0.95      // Smoothing factor within the PID&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Playing with the value carefully might result in better calibration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Hardware&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A different trick to &lt;em&gt;widen&lt;/em&gt; the waves might come from adjusting the physical properties of the printer:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Make sure that no draft from the cool end fans runs over the heater block. If it does, a shroud or a little tinfoil can help to dampen the changes.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;e3D uses a silicon sock to isolate their heater blocks and prevent air drafting over them.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:29:41.667" LastActivityDate="2018-12-16T22:09:01.393" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7671" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7672" CreationDate="2018-12-16T21:27:51.130" Score="2" ViewCount="671" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently got myself a Prusa i3, that I needed to assemble and adjust myself. As expected, the first prints was of quite poor quality. After better adjustment, I improved a bit the print, but I am not quite there yet. I was hoping to get some advice on how to improve the print based on few pictures of the 3DBenchy boat I printed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The most annoying point, on the following image, is the dent that I have in the hull, on the front of the boat. And one layer appears to be missing or close. And I have another one just like it in the top cabin.&#xA;I also think that my specific settings on the first layers shouldn't be there, because they don't improve anything, but that is another topic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nDQXM.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nDQXM.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;3DBenchy boat with dents&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, when I look on the top, I have a lot of filament strings getting here and there, the path of the tip of the printer is quite visible on the roof and floor, the steering wheel is not to clear, etc.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/R6a1Y.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/R6a1Y.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, at the end of the boat, I am supposed to have some letters, but I cannot read them because of the poor definition of the print...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I improve the quality of the print? What settings should be looked at?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The material used for printing is PLA. The hotend temperature was set to 215&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C for the first layer, 210&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C for the rest. The bed at 65&amp;nbsp;°C for the first, then 60&amp;nbsp;°C.&#xA;The setting in Slic3r for the fan is between 35% to 100%. If I understand the rule correctly, under 5 sec for a layer, it is 100%, then it decreases proportionally up to 35% if the layer is done in 60 sec. And off otherwise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The diameter of the filament is set to 1.75, with a nozzle of 0.4&amp;nbsp;mm. I wonder if I should put it to 0.375&amp;nbsp;mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I otherwise think that it is a genuine prusa, but clearly not from the first iteration. I don't have an arduino on it, but the makerbase chip. (That comes from a kit I bought online.) I would wait to be a bit more confident before attempting any modifications.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The speed for perimeters is 60&amp;nbsp;mm/s, 30&amp;nbsp;mm/s for external perimeters. Infill 80&amp;nbsp;mm/s. Bridges 60&amp;nbsp;mm/s. Support material 60&amp;nbsp;mm/s. Non print move: 130&amp;nbsp;mm/s. There are a couple of other print speed, but I don't think they are that relevant for the case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After modifications of temperature and cooling, following the answers, I got the following print:&#xA;(Nozzle 200&amp;nbsp;°C, fan at 50&amp;nbsp;%)&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/johYB.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/johYB.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;New boat with burn dent.&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/P1Q2R.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/P1Q2R.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Burned plastic&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Weirdly, it was like the PLA got burned here and there, which was not the case at hotter temperature... But at least, the edges are sharper, and the writings are easier to read! I will try to lower a bit more the temperature, but I would need to fight a bit with my extruder motor, which seems to have hard time pushing the PLA when the temperature is too low.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tested at an even lower temperature: 190&amp;nbsp;°C. The result is not pretty, the layer were not sticking to each other. And even at 195&amp;nbsp;°C, some layer don't attach.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2tMzI.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2tMzI.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Low temperature print.&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried again at 200&amp;nbsp;°C, but with lower peripheral printing speed. It did help! I can feel the progress.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LwRBb.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LwRBb.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I still have a small dent. And on the following picture, we can clearly see that there are sometimes molten half-burned PLA dripping. And there are still strings remaining between the places.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kVAUE.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kVAUE.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Molten PLA&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The nozzle was cleaned just before this print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9438" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-01-19T16:16:07.487" LastActivityDate="2019-01-19T21:50:23.407" Title="Calibration improvement of the Prusa i3" Tags="|print-quality|calibration|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7672" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7671" CreationDate="2018-12-16T22:19:44.590" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your hotend temperature is too high and/or too less part cooling. The part cooling is very important to solidify the hot fluid filament in time to have a solid fundament for the next layer. PLA has a reasonably low glass temperature (at this point the filament is weak and mealable/flexible, at about 60&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C), if the part is not cooled properly, the part temperature can be over the glass temperature when printing the next layer and will distort the previous and current layer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I print PLA at a maximum temperature of 200&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C (&lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/7635/5740&quot;&gt;for my thermistor reading&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A combination or a single of these parameters not being the correct value will cause the dent at the front and the stringing and letters to be faded as the filament is not cooled properly and deforms the previous and current layer, this easily shows up in overhangs like at the bow of your print. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Try to lower the hotend temperature by 5&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C per next calibration print (or start at 200&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C and work down from there) and increase the part cooling a little if possible (35&amp;nbsp;% to 50&amp;nbsp;%). The build plate generally does not need to be 5&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C higher for the first layer nor do you need an extra 5&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C for the hotend, PLA is not that difficult to print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-01-19T21:50:23.407" LastActivityDate="2019-01-19T21:50:23.407" CommentCount="12" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7673" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7661" CreationDate="2018-12-16T22:44:51.240" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are sure that PID is enabled (and not using bang-bang heating, as this gives a very similar heating profile) and did not fix the fluctuations, the best guess for this phenomenon is that the printer board has incorrect capacitors installed on the printer board. This is not very uncommon and can be found on the internet. You should at least show the graph to the vendor and ask for support.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If incorrect or faulty capacitors are the cause it requires desoldering, and resoldering new ones. If this is out of your comfort zone, it is better to steer your communication with the vendor to replacing the board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2018-12-16T22:44:51.240" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7674" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7675" CreationDate="2018-12-17T09:31:20.753" Score="2" ViewCount="8984" Body="&lt;p&gt;I plugged a new fan into the (TriGorilla v1.4) printer board Fan0 which I found out to be broken. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to upgrade the part cooling fan for a bigger one. Unfortunately after plugging in the old one, I realize that the fan is constantly &quot;ON&quot;. On other forum someone told me that MOSFET might be shorted from plugging in the broken fan. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This triggered my question: &quot;Is there any possible way to change the firmware FAN0 to use FAN1 socket?&quot; and: &quot;Would that work for part cooling model fan?&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bMQf2.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bMQf2.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Motherboard&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13847" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-12-20T07:44:42.147" LastActivityDate="2019-02-26T11:55:42.447" Title="Changing FAN0 to FAN1 in TriGorilla printer board" Tags="|marlin|hotend|delta|cooling|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7675" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7674" CreationDate="2018-12-17T10:28:30.540" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Yes you can&lt;/strong&gt; use another fan port, this requires some editing of the configuration files of the firmware and reflash the firmware.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you look at the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/download:4012609&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;documentation&lt;/a&gt; of the board and an overview of the board layout, you will see that there are 3 PWM controlled FAN ports. The answer is therefore yes, you can use another port (e.g. FAN1 or FAN2) to be used for your broken FAN0 port. The most easy solution is to swap the port numbers in the pins configuration of your firmware, so swap pins 'D9' and 'D7'.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/N4s1M.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/N4s1M.png&quot; alt=&quot;Trigorilla printer board pin layout&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How you edit the configuration is depending on the version of the TriGorilla board you have, there is a version 1.3 and a version 1.4.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically you need to define the software FAN (0) to be reached at the hardware location Fan1 using pin 7:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#define FAN_PIN        7&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Subsequently, FAN1 in software needs to points to Fan0 in hardware&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#define FAN1_PIN        9&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you changed this, the software will think that the Fan1 port on the board is the software FAN. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;If you are using the v1.4 TriGorilla printer board&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;, the v1,4 specific pin definition is found in &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/blob/1.1.x/Marlin/pins_TRIGORILLA_14.h&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;pins_TRIGORILLA_14.h&lt;/a&gt;. If you look into this file you will see that this is basically a RAMPS board:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#define IS_RAMPS_EFB&#xA;...&#xA;#include &quot;pins_RAMPS.h&quot;&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So editing for you need to redirect the pins 7 and 9, but you only have a single active fan (as per &lt;code&gt;#define IS_RAMPS_EFB&lt;/code&gt;)! Luckily we can forget about the second fan as you want to replace the first by the second.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/blob/1.1.x/Marlin/pins_RAMPS.h&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;pins_RAMPS.h&lt;/a&gt; you will find:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#ifndef RAMPS_D9_PIN&#xA;  #define RAMPS_D9_PIN      9&#xA;#endif&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that it is wise not to edit this latter file, instead edit your copy of &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/blob/1.1.x/Marlin/pins_TRIGORILLA_14.h&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;pins_TRIGORILLA_14.h&lt;/a&gt; to include assigning of the pin 7 to the Fan1  header as FAN in the firmware.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you look closely at the assigning of the &lt;code&gt;RAMPS_D9_PIN&lt;/code&gt; pin, it says: &lt;code&gt;#ifndef&lt;/code&gt;; so if it has been assigned previously, do not override the value.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now edit the &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/blob/1.1.x/Marlin/pins_TRIGORILLA_14.h&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;pins_TRIGORILLA_14.h&lt;/a&gt; file to include:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;// Comment out this line:&#xA;//#define FAN_PIN 9&#xA;// And enter this beneath that line&#xA;#define RAMPS_D9_PIN 7&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;or&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#define FAN_PIN 7&#xA;// this bypasses setting of the RAMPS_D9_PIN constant&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From this point on, if the software addresses scheduling of the FAN port, the pin 7 schedules the MOSFET attached to the Fan1 header.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically, the above procedure describes how one directs hardware ports by changing the addressing in the firmware configuration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;If this does not work, there might be more things broken on your board.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-12-20T11:26:15.853" LastActivityDate="2018-12-20T11:26:15.853" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7676" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7753" CreationDate="2018-12-17T10:52:57.067" Score="13" ViewCount="38613" Body="&lt;p&gt;Where is the correct Marlin firmware file and location to add code that I want to shop up in the LCD menu of my printer, and then execute the function I write when the button is pressed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example I want to add a menu item that says &quot;Preheat Custom&quot; that is in the same menu as &quot;preheat PLA&quot; and &quot;preheat ABS&quot; and then runs code to heat to values I specify.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;I'm running Marlin Firmware version 1.1.9 on a Creality Ender 3.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13829" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-04-14T22:13:13.457" LastActivityDate="2022-04-05T18:24:40.420" Title="How to add menu options to the (Marlin firmware) LCD menu?" Tags="|marlin|firmware|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7677" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7682" CreationDate="2018-12-17T13:09:31.213" Score="3" ViewCount="86" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am at the moment designing some in place mechanical parts. Something like two cylinders that rotate with respect to each other. I need in my design some overhangs that cannot be printed and I was thinking of using soluble supports to be able to print these overhangs. I am afraid that by using something like PVA the PVA will end up between the two parts and glue the together. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone have any experience with this? Can something be done about this apart from 'not using PVA'?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is an (minimal) example of an object I would be worried about. The blue and red cylinders are supposed to turn around each other and there is a cutout in the blue cylinder that will need support (the bridge is to long to print without support).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GJUI6.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GJUI6.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12934" LastEditorUserId="12934" LastEditDate="2018-12-17T15:36:11.453" LastActivityDate="2018-12-17T16:47:22.303" Title="PVA support with small tolerances" Tags="|3d-design|support-structures|pva|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7678" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7679" CreationDate="2018-12-17T13:11:56.090" Score="7" ViewCount="6973" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am trying to get rid of stringing on my prints, to do that I have tried turning on a retraction in Ultimaker Cura, and reducing flow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I turn on retraction it causes the extruder to skip on the filament. the extruder pulls the material out as it should, but when it pushes back in as it prints the next parts it goes part of the way then it skips making the bumping sound, it seems to do this almost every time that it retracts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To stop this from happening I have tried changing the retraction distance from 10mm to 5mm, the retraction speed from 60&amp;nbsp;mm/s to 40&amp;nbsp;mm/s, the flow from 100% to 90% and the temperature from 200&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C to 220&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am using the Ender 3 running Marlin 1.1.9 with an aluminium Bowden extruder upgrade and BLTouch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ro18N.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ro18N.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Retraction print &quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do prevent this skipping due to retraction?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After changing the setting to what has been suggested in &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/7679/5740&quot;&gt;this answer&lt;/a&gt; the result of the retraction print resulted in:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MKmmV.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MKmmV.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Retraction print 2: Lowered retraction settings to 25&amp;nbsp;mm/s&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It has almost completely solved the stringing problem as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13327" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-12-17T18:00:20.040" LastActivityDate="2018-12-17T18:00:20.040" Title="Retraction Causing Skipping" Tags="|extruder|creality-ender-3|retraction|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7679" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7678" CreationDate="2018-12-17T13:22:22.833" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Fighting stringing will not work by increasing the temperature of the hotend.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There could be 2 possible causes for your problem, &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the first is that you still have a too high retraction speed, too high for your stepper to follow (do note that the default value in Ultimaker Cura is 25&amp;nbsp;mm/s),&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the second is that you retract too far and the cooled &quot;hot&quot; filament tip is deformed and causes extra tension/friction in the extruded liner.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2018-12-17T13:22:22.833" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7681" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7610" CreationDate="2018-12-17T16:46:32.977" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;@Trish gives a lot of good info, but:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;I don't think your heating element is the problem, I think the thermistor is, or a flaky connection between it and your board.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The termistor senses the temperature of your heater (you also have one on a heat bed), and tells the electronics when to heat, and when it's hot enough. Now imagine if the sensor is broken or the cable gets loose: the electronics will think it's too cold and just heat forever.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This causes a fire hasard, so most electronics doesn't let the heater go full out for too long time, and ends it all with a &quot;Thermal Runaway&quot; if it happens.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So check that your temp is read correctly, even when you move the cables, and if that isn't it, buy a pack of thermistors (or what's compatible with your printer).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Source: been there done that :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8328" LastActivityDate="2018-12-17T16:46:32.977" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7682" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7677" CreationDate="2018-12-17T16:47:22.303" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You've not stated this, but one must presume that you have a dual or multi-material extruder equipped printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because PVA dissolves in water, the supports will be eroded on contact when the part is immersed. As the PVA dissolves, it increases the concentration of PVA in the water, but only slightly. You would have to agitate the water, change it if you feel it is becoming too concentrated. At some point, you should be able to rotate the cylinders, creating more turbulence, causing more PVA to dissolve into the water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are determined enough, you can cause all of the PVA to dissolve, followed by a rinse with clean water. This would remove any residual PVA.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The water containing the dissolved PVA is somewhat sticky, but would not glue parts together if the parts were thoroughly rinsed. It's not out of the question to use an ultrasonic cleaner with plain water to provide sufficient turbulence, again changing the water periodically to keep the concentration low.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you use an ultrasonic cleaner, test a sample of your print filament to determine if the heat generated will soften the plastic. I've had success with PVA to the extent that I have not had to use an ultrasonic cleaner to remove it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastActivityDate="2018-12-17T16:47:22.303" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7683" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8114" CreationDate="2018-12-17T17:46:24.213" Score="5" ViewCount="29295" Body="&lt;p&gt;My Flashforge Adventurer 3 is not printing properly.  Filament feeder makes repetitive loud thumping noise and not enough filament is extruded.  Resulting print (if completed) is not solid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Results vary with filament. Flashforge brand (red) PLA works best.  Any other filament fails completely unless I print at High quality, with head temperature at 235 degrees.  Nozzle has been un-clogged repeatedly, but right from the start, when  feeding filament in, it does not flow through properly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had used the included tool to clear blockages in the extruder several times before now, but after posting this question I tried again. Ordinary use of the tool made no difference. So I applied more force, and, pushed filament through by hand directly into the extruder and used a pin to try to clear the extruder. It now appears to be working adequately Not perfectly. I am able to print with default settings. It still thumps -or ticks- a bit. I am alarmed at the amount of force I had to use to clear the extruder blockage. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13852" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2019-08-31T09:26:27.423" LastActivityDate="2021-12-16T21:14:56.647" Title="Flashforge Adventurer 3 Filament feeder loud thumping noise, not enough filament extruded" Tags="|print-quality|filament|pla|extruder|flashforge-adventurer-3|" AnswerCount="9" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7684" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7685" CreationDate="2018-12-17T18:35:33.537" Score="9" ViewCount="2283" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am trying to stop the stringing that occurs on one of my prints, I have set it so that it retracts the filament which does stop it during the extrusion of the outer wall layer, however when it comes to print the inner lines of the section it does not retract at all (the extruder gear does not move back).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QiXLw.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Outer Wall Line Prints Without Stringing&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QiXLw.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Outer Wall Line Prints Without Stringing&quot; title=&quot;Outer Wall Line Prints Without Stringing&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nedQS.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Inner Wall Line Prints With Stringing&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nedQS.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Inner Wall Line Prints With Stringing&quot; title=&quot;Inner Wall Line Prints With Stringing&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am using Cura as my slicer and I cannot find any setting that would change this. My current retraction settings are as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Enable Retraction - On&#xA;Retract At Layer Change - On&#xA;Retraction Distance - 7&#xA;Retraction Retract Speed - 40 mm/s&#xA;Retraction Prime Speed - 30 mm/s&#xA;Retraction Extra Prime Amount - 1 mm3&#xA;Retract Before Outer Wall - On&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am not sure how to stop this from happening, any suggestions that you can make will be greatly appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13327" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-12-17T18:59:51.717" LastActivityDate="2020-05-27T18:43:04.273" Title="Extruder doesn't retract on inner wall lines thereby causing stringing" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|extrusion|creality-ender-3|retraction|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7685" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7684" CreationDate="2018-12-17T18:44:15.643" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cura has a setting called &lt;code&gt;Combing&lt;/code&gt; that is enabled by default. This stops the printer from retracting if the travel is contained within the walls. It does this to speed up the print but you get oozing during the travel since the plastic is still in the melt zone. You can change this setting to no skin which will stop it from combing on the skin layers or turn it of completely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11097" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-05-27T18:43:04.273" LastActivityDate="2020-05-27T18:43:04.273" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7686" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7903" CreationDate="2018-12-17T21:47:17.720" Score="3" ViewCount="946" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently switched from Bang-Bang to PID controlled bed heating. The stock firmware pulsed On/Off with about 5 seconds each cycle. Now with PID, my bed keeps its temperature much more stable, the frequency is around 7Hz. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although the total amount of energy used for heating should be less now since the heating is more efficient and doesn't waste energy by cooling down, I am a bit concerned of the fast pulsing of the rather high amperage (around 13 Amps in my case).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I was wondering, do the faster cycles cause more stress on the components (I am thinking MOSFET on the board and components inside the PSU) or is this negligible? I am particularly curious since this is a rather low budget printer (Anycubic i3 Mega, $350 printer with a generic unbranded PSU) and I don't want to push its limits too much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only thing I can observe is a very faint noise with the same frequency as the pulses. Might have been the same on 5 second cycles, I was just not paying attention to it back then.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd be very glad if somebody could chime in on this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks in advance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13856" LastActivityDate="2019-01-07T15:27:02.477" Title="Heatbed PID vs Bang-Bang - which one is more stressing on components?" Tags="|heated-bed|electronics|safety|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7687" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7683" CreationDate="2018-12-17T22:44:24.377" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;PLA should not be printed at 235&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C. If your printer requires such high temperatures to make the filament very fluid, you have too much friction in your system, e.g. this can be caused by clogs or too low layer height printing the first few layers. Note that such high temperatures are also a cause for obstructions as the filament can carbonise creating clogs. On the other side, too low temperatures also cause too much friction or resistance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The sound you are hearing is often referred to as &quot;clicking&quot; and can be caused by steps being missed or the extruder hobbed gear to skip back as a result of the friction/resistance. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now that clicking is introduced, please look into &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/3205/5740&quot;&gt;this answer&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/5687/5740&quot;&gt;this answer&lt;/a&gt; to answer your problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-12-17T22:50:07.833" LastActivityDate="2018-12-17T22:50:07.833" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7688" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-12-17T23:19:33.347" Score="1" ViewCount="326" Body="&lt;p&gt;Why am I seeing two different versions of the way to enable manual leveling?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One option says to enable:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#define manual_bed_leveling&#xA;#define mesh_bed_leveling&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And the other says to enable:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#define probe_manually&#xA;#define LCD_bed_leveling&#xA;#define mesh_bed_leveling&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How is it that they both work? One is from the official marlin github and the other is from a tutorial that is confirmed to work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13829" LastActivityDate="2018-12-17T23:54:17.720" Title="Marlin Firmware Manual Mesh Leveling" Tags="|marlin|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7689" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7688" CreationDate="2018-12-17T23:54:17.720" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you look into the most recent version of Marlin you will find in file &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/blob/85c82ab28e13cb25043ae166062785bff39434b9/Marlin/SanityCheck.h&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;code&gt;Marlin/SanityCheck.h&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;elif defined(MANUAL_BED_LEVELING)&#xA;  #error &quot;MANUAL_BED_LEVELING is now LCD_BED_LEVELING. Please update your configuration.&quot;&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This implies that constant &lt;code&gt;MANUAL_BED_LEVELING&lt;/code&gt; is obsolete. It is not found anywhere else except for the file linked above. So, &lt;strong&gt;no&lt;/strong&gt;, the constants are not supposed to do exactly the same. Instead an error is shown on compiling to update your configuration to exclude the constant &lt;code&gt;MANUAL_BED_LEVELING&lt;/code&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2018-12-17T23:54:17.720" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7690" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7660" CreationDate="2018-12-18T04:10:18.837" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Calibrating the first layer height involves two steps:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first step, as illustrated in that picture, is to adjust the PINDA probe to be roughly the right distance above the nozzle.  The PINDA only has a sensing range of about a millimeter, so if it's too high, it can't detect the printbed; if it's too low, it will interfere with the printed object.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The second step, which you're having trouble with, is to calibrate the exact distance between the PINDA and the nozzle tip.  The printer prints out a test pattern; while it's printing, you turn the the dial on the printer control panel to adjust the &quot;live-Z&quot; value.  Typical values for a properly-assembled printer are between -0.5 and -1.0 (more-negative values are closer to the print bed).  If the live-Z value is outside that range, you need to adjust the position of the PINDA probe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The official Prusa procedure is good for getting a rough calibration.  If you want more precision, the &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;https://shop.prusa3d.com/forum/assembly-and-first-prints-troubleshooting-f62/life-adjust-z-my-way-t2981.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Life adjust Z - my way&lt;/a&gt;&quot; procedure on the Prusa forums is good.  Basically, you print out a large one-layer square, adjust the live-Z value halfway through, and see which half has a better first layer.  Repeat until satisfied.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="48" LastActivityDate="2018-12-18T04:10:18.837" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7692" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-12-18T06:04:41.747" Score="2" ViewCount="4139" Body="&lt;p&gt;I need to replace this stepper motor with the following product identification:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tquMx.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Y-axis stepper for the CR10-S5&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It’s a Y-axis for CR10-S5 and labeled as JD42HS60-1500A-02F. What type of stepper motor is this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13860" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2018-12-18T21:02:08.227" LastActivityDate="2020-08-09T11:33:28.583" Title="Stepper motor for CR10-S5 Y-axis" Tags="|stepper|motor|creality-cr-10|part-identification|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7694" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7692" CreationDate="2018-12-18T06:17:28.020" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a NEMA 17 motor. It is virtually identical to the NEMA 17 motors Creality uses in most of their 12V products.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In contrast to other companies, Creality uses a different connector with a flat ribbon cable instead of color-coded wires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The upper line of the label identifies it more clearly: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;JD Identifies the factory/manufacturer&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;42 identifies the faceplate size as 42mm square, so a NEMA17&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;HS identifies how the holes are shaped&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;60 is the height of the motor as 60 mm.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1500 identifies how much power is OK for it, here: 1500mA = 1.5A&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A specifies our motor has a maximum safe temperature of 104°C&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;- gives us no voltage for this motor, but as you have a CR10, it should be 12V&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;02F is supposed to tell us something about the wiring and steps per rotation, but I can't find out what.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Side Note: the Creality Ender3 uses 34mm high stepper motors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2018-12-18T18:58:51.187" LastActivityDate="2018-12-18T18:58:51.187" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7695" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-12-18T08:15:42.187" Score="5" ViewCount="13248" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am trying to figure out some calculations regarding stepper motor and lead screw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These are the things need answer:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Selection stepper motor to lift given weight?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Amount of load threaded rod can handle?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found a this topic &lt;a href=&quot;https://buildyourcnc.com/FAQ/879&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;how much weight can my stepping motor lift?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8qpvW.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8qpvW.png&quot; alt=&quot;Equation&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;where, &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;p = pitch of the screw &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Se = screw efficiency = Standard lead screw will be between 20% (.2) and 40% (.4) &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sf = static force. This is the force that is needed to start the movement. The number may be eliminated, but it is good to use a number in the 5 N to 20 N range. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Load = the expected load that the effort will need to carry (i.e., the router and the included axis assembly that the motor will need to lift) &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;R = radius of the lead screw&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Based on this equation with following data&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Load: 5&amp;nbsp;Kg = ~25&amp;nbsp;N&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Thread rod specs;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pitch : 1.25 mm = 0.0492126&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Dia : 8 mm = 0.314961 inch&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Motor :&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Nema 17 &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://steppermotors.bholanath.in/stepper-motors/captive-lead-screw-linear-actuator-stepper-motors-length-250mm-300mm-450mm/5-5-kg-cm-captive-linear-actuator-stepper-motor-1-5-amp-motor-pitch-m8x1-25-with-250-mm-lead-screw.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Datasheet&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Calculated &lt;strong&gt;Effort = 6.22 N = 1.4 lbf = 22.4 ounce&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Radius = 8&amp;nbsp;mm = 0.315 inch (using &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.newmantools.com/tech/pitchconversions.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Pitch conversion table&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So torque = 22.4 * 0.315 = 7.056 oz-in = 0.0498&amp;nbsp;Nm &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As per data sheet Motor can provide an Axial force of 10&amp;nbsp;N. I'm using two of such motors, so this motor is enough&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, based on this calculator, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.daycounter.com/Calculators/Lead-Screw-Force-Torque-Calculator.phtml&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Lead Screw Torque and Force Calculator&lt;/a&gt;, with following information:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vXF5N.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vXF5N.png&quot; alt=&quot;Lead Screw Torque and Force Calculator&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Torque required to raise in 0.0252&amp;nbsp;Nm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Which should be used for calculations?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How to find the running torque of stepper motor? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I know it will be less that Holding torque, but what percentage?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Nema 17 that I've given Holding torque is 5.5&amp;nbsp;Kgcm or 0.55&amp;nbsp;Nm. My second calculation gives the calculated torque to lift is 0.0252&amp;nbsp;Nm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also from this &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/loads-hanging-rods-d_1341.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Threaded rod load&lt;/a&gt; table, load capacity of 8&amp;nbsp;mm rod is somewhat around 270&amp;nbsp;Kg.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looking for further inputs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10670" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2019-04-30T18:00:55.290" LastActivityDate="2019-06-19T12:03:35.663" Title="Z axis: Stepper motor and lead screw torque calculation" Tags="|z-axis|stepper|lead-screw|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2024-03-12T20:16:27.167" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7696" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7697" CreationDate="2018-12-18T15:52:45.867" Score="2" ViewCount="1243" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to enter the settings into Cura for the printer.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The manual has a screenshot of what they should be:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0iKne.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0iKne.png&quot; alt=&quot;Suggested settings, from manual&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, when I run Cura and try to enter the settings I'm presented with different options:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/s7Uux.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/s7Uux.png&quot; alt=&quot;Available machine settings (Printer)&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/T7w2A.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/T7w2A.png&quot; alt=&quot;Available machine settings (Extruder 1)&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How do I translate the settings from teh screenshot into the settings I have available?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Should I be concerned about the settings that aren't available to enter?&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Are they important?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do I need to enter them somewhere else?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13813" LastActivityDate="2018-12-18T17:30:44.973" Title="Adding a custom printer to Cura" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|desktop-printer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7697" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7696" CreationDate="2018-12-18T17:30:44.973" Score="2" Body="&lt;h1&gt;Your manual is in another Castle!&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The manual you look at is for &lt;strong&gt;Cura (1) 15.04.&lt;/strong&gt; You are however using &lt;strong&gt;Ultimaker Cura 3,&lt;/strong&gt; most likely the most recent 3.6.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Quick references&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The machine setup is for the &lt;a href=&quot;https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/52029-manage-printers&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;em&gt;physical&lt;/em&gt; settings of the machine&lt;/a&gt; - build volume, nozzle diameter, coordinate system and such.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;em&gt;other&lt;/em&gt; settings you refer to are &lt;a href=&quot;https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/52340-quality&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;all set in the right bar&lt;/a&gt;, but you will have to switch from simple to advanced mode, and possibly activate the settings you need.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:29:41.667" LastActivityDate="2018-12-18T17:30:44.973" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7698" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-12-18T19:29:32.543" Score="1" ViewCount="2247" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've just printed my very first part and it did not want to come loose from the build plate, it fact, it just broke instead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can heat the bed up again and work it off, but I wondered if a release agent would be better?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a silicon release spray (like those use with molds).  Could I spray the base with that before starting printing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13813" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-12-18T21:31:10.503" LastActivityDate="2018-12-18T21:56:49.880" Title="Silicone spray as a release agent?" Tags="|pla|heated-bed|post-processing|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7699" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-12-18T19:57:54.633" Score="2" ViewCount="21750" Body="&lt;p&gt;While printing a simple model, my printer starts to layer-shift the build in a direction suddenly. I used the default setting for ultimaker Cura 3.4.1. It has done this same thing for multiple different prints. I would guess it is the software. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do I fix the issue?&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xVXO2.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xVXO2.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;ultimaker cura image&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pDCZm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pDCZm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;3D printed object&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13870" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2019-08-31T08:12:44.253" LastActivityDate="2019-08-31T08:12:44.253" Title="How to fix Y layer shift on Creality Ender 3?" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|creality-ender-3|y-axis|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7700" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7699" CreationDate="2018-12-18T20:16:06.547" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You have a case of layer shift. Layer shifts happened to me in 3 ways:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The movement of the axis is hindered. Check if all cables run freely and without any chance to catch! improper cable chains can cause binding and stop the printhead or bed in movement and thus induce a shift.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The acceleration might be too fast. Shift the acceleration of the printer movements down a notch. Don't print faster than ~60 to keep the acceleration in check, as the printer will try to reach the top speed as fast as possible, thus limiting top speed also limits acceleration.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The model might be broken. Re-slice the model &lt;em&gt;just in case&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2019-04-03T13:43:57.487" LastActivityDate="2019-04-03T13:43:57.487" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7701" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7698" CreationDate="2018-12-18T20:16:30.320" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The problem with using a release agent is, you really run the risk of the print not sticking to the bed at all. Sticking to the bed is uber important, because if it's not there, the piece isn't going to come out right. Having it stick to the bed is a good thing (something which I struggled with for a while!!). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I believe what most people do to get the piece unstuck from the bed is to use a putty knife. Wedge the flat part under the piece and twist slightly. Continue doing this around the print until you can get it to release. Your best bet is being careful by going easy with it though. Also, if the print is sticking well to the bed, ensure you're not using a raft. This will make it even more difficult. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11242" LastActivityDate="2018-12-18T20:16:30.320" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7702" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7698" CreationDate="2018-12-18T21:49:19.977" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Plastic shrinks when it cools, usually, print come loose when you cool down the build plate. If you print on glass, you could put the plate with print in the refrigerator. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can't put the build plate in the refrigerator, wait for the plate to cool; the print part sometimes pops off, if not, prying up a corner with an artist palette knife or a razor blade scraper will be enough to pop the print off. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZALFss.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZALFss.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Artist palette knife&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/H89wvs.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/H89wvs.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Razor blade scraper&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that release agents can be used (from experience), but not what you suggest. E.g. when you print PETG on PEI it almost fuses, to release those prints you can use 3DLAC or any other PVA based spray or glue (which normally would increase the adhesion!) to be used as an intermediate less sticking release layer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do note all the questions here of people not getting the filament to stick to the build plate, do not grease up the plate, else you won't have a print to get off!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-12-18T21:56:49.880" LastActivityDate="2018-12-18T21:56:49.880" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7703" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7699" CreationDate="2018-12-18T22:08:34.050" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In addition to &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/7700/5740&quot;&gt;the other answer&lt;/a&gt; to complete the overview, your stepper motor may not get enough power and misses steps, increasing the current by adjusting the stepper driver voltage could also solve the issue (when the current is too low that is! &lt;strong&gt;never just increase this to try out&lt;/strong&gt;, you could damage the stepper, the drivers or the board, so beware).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2018-12-18T22:08:34.050" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7704" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7660" CreationDate="2018-12-18T22:22:48.640" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your problem is that you need to define the sensor to nozzle level offset and store it in the printers memory.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you have homed the printer, you should end up with the nozzle at a certain level where the sensor trigger point is now defined in relation to the bed. Next step is to relate the trigger point to the nozzle level, instruct the nozzle to go down to the build plate (placing a sheet of paper on the plate) by using the buttons of the menu to move the Z axis. When you feel friction when you pull the piece of paper, you reached the correct offset. Now store the value you read from the Z axis display as Z offset in the menu. Alternatively use G-code &lt;code&gt;M851 Z-x.xx&lt;/code&gt;, where x.xx is the value you read from the display. &lt;code&gt;M500&lt;/code&gt; will store it in memory.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-12-18T22:53:47.673" LastActivityDate="2018-12-18T22:53:47.673" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7707" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-12-19T16:32:44.270" Score="6" ViewCount="14916" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some prints take a long time and, as I'm not in a workshop, I need to pause the print sometimes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any special considerations I should take when pausing, or can I literally just click pause, leave it for twelve hours or so, and it'll continue without any ill effects?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm using PLA at present.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13813" LastEditorUserId="4922" LastEditDate="2018-12-19T20:00:26.607" LastActivityDate="2018-12-21T14:02:03.987" Title="Considerations when pausing a print job" Tags="|print-quality|pla|desktop-printer|quality|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7708" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7458" CreationDate="2018-12-19T17:06:47.730" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;One thing that I have learned in my extensive youtubing is that sometimes the hot end can soften the previous layers. Though, take the following advice with a grain of salt as the following is just conceptual for me (I'm still waiting for my first printer to arrive to follow this advice).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tomb of 3D Printed Horrors has a pretty &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AqEWl51s9Rw&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;good video&lt;/a&gt; on printing D&amp;amp;D miniatures that require high detail at small sizes (particularly at the 2 minute mark). His recommendation is to have 0.2 mm thick lines as thinner lines are more susceptible melting when the hot end is laying down subsequent layers. Thicker layers means more plastic to absorb the heat and less deformity. This is probably why your 0.1 mm lines look better than your 0.05 mm lines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another fix is to keep print speeds somewhat normal or slightly slow. A faster print head heats the previous layers less and can counteract the issue. Running at 60 mm/s may be too quick for quality prints, but running at 10 mm/s is too slow and can reheat the lower layers. Keeping an &quot;average&quot; pace paired with thick enough lines could help you get the prints you want. Though, finding what speeds/thickness is up to you. I don't have the experience to suggest any at the moment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13883" LastEditorUserId="13883" LastEditDate="2018-12-20T15:01:40.527" LastActivityDate="2018-12-20T15:01:40.527" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7709" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7707" CreationDate="2018-12-19T20:03:46.663" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you keep the head hot during the pause, and over the print, you will melt the material already deposited.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you move to X0 Y0 (like on a layer change) and pause there, you can cool off the head (or not), but will want to prime (advance) some material before resuming your print - or risk an initial void, as the heated material will expand and drip to some extent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you move to X0 Y0, retract, and cool off for your pause, you should be able to heat up, advance, and resume with few issues. You will probably still need to some manual cleaning where the resume was, as there is likely to be some buildup.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, if you let the bed cool during your pause, your print may become unstuck from the bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4922" LastActivityDate="2018-12-19T20:03:46.663" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7710" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7712" CreationDate="2018-12-19T21:54:25.530" Score="1" ViewCount="555" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've just joined the 3D Printing world and am &lt;em&gt;patiently&lt;/em&gt; waiting for my printer to come in next week. I've been thinking about keeping my printer in the garage so that it stays out of the way of every day life. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since I am in the Midwest, I was wondering if this is the best plan. Is it okay to store and use my printer when the ambient temperature can get as low as 10&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;F (about -12&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C) and as high as 120&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;F (about 50&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C)? Would the cold affect my prints substantially, mainly using PLA, PETG and some TPU? Would larger prints, spanning days, affect the filament on the spool?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that I am solely talking about the printer. I plan on keeping the filaments inside the house so they won't be bothered by the temp extremes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My google searches came up with nothing and I didn't find anything on the supplier from which I purchased my printer. I doubt that it matters, but in case it does, my printer is the Creality CR-10S&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13883" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-12-19T22:55:43.677" LastActivityDate="2018-12-20T07:16:19.210" Title="Ambient Temperature Range for Printer Storage/Usage" Tags="|print-quality|desktop-printer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7711" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7707" CreationDate="2018-12-20T00:20:00.970" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is not recommended to pause prints a considerable amount of time as the printed model will shrink and might warp during the pause. Also, layer bonding between the old and the new art after resuming will be weak, but this can be used to induce planned breaking layers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other hand, &lt;strong&gt;if&lt;/strong&gt; you have set up your printer properly, it is quite safe to leave the room even during the print:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Maxtemp and Thermal Runaway Protection need to be set&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a smoke detector over the printer should be installed&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the printer should be placed in a way that no flammable objects can get in contact with it&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastActivityDate="2018-12-20T00:20:00.970" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7712" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7710" CreationDate="2018-12-20T00:29:27.837" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Printers are electrical machines. They don't like water, so they also don't like condensation in them. If you can keep your garage &lt;em&gt;dry&lt;/em&gt; and prevent a sheet of metal inside it from rusting, then your printer might survive the problems the shifting temperatures induce by condensing water vapor on the electronics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another thing to consider is, that at negative degrees Celsius, your printer might trigger a mintemp error, as the minimum temperature allowable is usually defined as 0&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C or higher. On the other hand, low temperatures might allow to bridge further than other days, as the cold air absorbs the heat from the prints faster. It could cause other problems like clogging or under extrusion due to low temperature though. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;High summer temperatures might impact the print quality, causing quite some extra sagging.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Filament on the machine in a garage might be impacted because of the humidity changes, but might be mitigated with a drybox.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-12-20T07:16:19.210" LastActivityDate="2018-12-20T07:16:19.210" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7713" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-12-20T05:00:59.027" Score="6" ViewCount="1520" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to hook up an Arduino to my Creality printer running Marlin firmware, such that I can have a few physical buttons mounted on the machine that will execute commands such as preheat, home, disable steppers, and so on, so that I don't have to navigate through the clunky LCD screen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ideally it would work in addition to the normal LCD and serial functionality, so it would not impede me from using Ultimaker Cura to print via USB, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the best way to do this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13829" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-06-23T10:36:49.270" LastActivityDate="2020-06-23T10:39:12.380" Title="How to make physical buttons send G-code?" Tags="|marlin|diy-3d-printer|firmware|arduino|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7714" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-12-20T06:35:02.557" Score="3" ViewCount="10203" Body="&lt;p&gt;Why is it that if I execute a gcode command that causes the stepper motor to turn in reverse (any negative move on the X axis), after the step it will emit a high pitched whine until it gets another command to rotate in its forward direction?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Executing multiple reverse commands will cause the tone to vary in frequency each step, and always it goes away after another step in the opposite (forward) direction. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sometimes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And other times it does it in both directions, but only on every other step. One step +X its there, next step its gone, next step its back, and so on...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then they also make a different noise when idle, before I disable them with the &quot;disable steppers&quot; command.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are these noises?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And is it bad to leave the motors in this state? Will it burn them out?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13829" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2019-01-02T14:26:42.763" LastActivityDate="2020-06-26T06:06:55.717" Title="Stepper motors making noise after steps/when idle" Tags="|creality-ender-3|stepper|motor|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7715" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-12-20T07:02:23.680" Score="1" ViewCount="74" Body="&lt;p&gt;I hope it doesn't get closed since my question is widely open:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I got recently a Geeetech Prusa i3 Pro B as a DIY kit, the assembly took a lot of time since the package did not include a building instruction. However the booklet contained a link to YouTube where I found almost all steps (based on the video names, some videos where missing and two steps had the wrong order).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm still wondering how I can put the (much too long) cables to prevent that they will touch the heat bed. Are there any hints or best practices?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However now the axes can be moved from the top panel however I'm not sure how to adjust the printer. I already found out the deltas of each stepper (I just excluded the extruder for now). &lt;strong&gt;How can I enter those deltas?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When done the next logical step is to do some test print. However how!? I found no exact steps. &lt;strong&gt;What kind of kind of printing software do I need?&lt;/strong&gt; (I'm running Windows OS) The device is detected as com port when I plug it in my computer. &lt;strong&gt;Where do I find an ideal test 3d model?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sorry for so many questions, however I hope this can get a introduction for newbies like me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13891" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-12-20T07:25:00.110" LastActivityDate="2018-12-20T07:25:00.110" Title="Steps to setup a new 3D Printer" Tags="|prusa-i3|3d-models|software|calibration|geeetech|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7716" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2018-12-20T07:22:50.383" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Shenzhen Getech Technology Co.,Ltd, also known as &lt;strong&gt;Geeetech&lt;/strong&gt; is a Chinese Manufacturer of electronics and 3D Printers. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2018-12-20T12:22:48.633" LastActivityDate="2018-12-20T12:22:48.633" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7717" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2018-12-20T07:22:50.383" Score="0" Body="Geeetech is a Chinese manufacturer of 3D printers and printer parts" OwnerUserId="13891" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2018-12-20T12:22:56.503" LastActivityDate="2018-12-20T12:22:56.503" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7719" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-12-20T11:07:03.673" Score="1" ViewCount="668" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 40 W, 12 V resistance heater in the hotend. It also has a 100 k&amp;Omega; thermistor built in. I am using an Arduino to read the temperature on the LCD. This is working fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to use this temperature using a MOSFET and the PWM signal that is generated by the ARDUINO.&#xA;So I connected the PWM signal to the Gate of the MOSFET and connected the 12 V, 3 A supply to the drain of the MOSFET. And connected the Resistance heater of the 3D printer to the source and ground.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But the problem that I am facing is that the Current is flowing from drain and the source even without the gate signal to the MOSFET.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am not able to control the current to the resistance heater.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mosfet: IRFZ44N&#xA;and the AC to DC adapter is 12 V, 3 A.&#xA;PWM signal is max 2 V.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13895" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-12-20T11:28:58.963" LastActivityDate="2018-12-22T15:08:29.497" Title="Trying to control temperature of hotend using PWM signal and MOSFET" Tags="|pla|diy-3d-printer|hotend|fdm|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7720" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-12-20T11:34:30.740" Score="3" ViewCount="7503" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I set the temperature of my hotend with pronterface to 200 °C, the temperature never reaches that value. For instance, it almost reaches the target with a temperate of 196/197 °C and then starts to drop to 184/85 °C before it starts to rise again to 196/197 °C. It remains in this loop forever and thus I'm not able to start any print because the temperature never stabilizes enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've tried to configure the PID (M303 E0 S200 C8) with 8, 12, 15 intervals not help the issue continue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've tried to change heatblock and thermistor not help&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Its important to refer this behaviour occur in any tempurate if I fix 150º it never reaches 150º it go to 146/147º and then drops again 10/15º and restart the loop. Same thing if I fix the tempurature to 210º.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also I've tested this in multiple versions of marlin 1.1.8 and 1.1.9.The version of marlin 1.1.8 have worked in the same print in the past.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm have not clue about what can cause this issue, maybe its a board malfunctions (mosfet) or a powersupply malfunction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Somebody can help me on this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13896" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2018-12-20T16:38:13.063" LastActivityDate="2021-11-14T14:02:57.157" Title="Hotend does not reach set temperature" Tags="|marlin|hotend|troubleshooting|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7721" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-12-20T12:00:59.947" Score="1" ViewCount="751" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to do my first ever print with my Geeetech prusa i3 pro.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I try to print that printer seems to work, x,y,z axis all moving ok.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What isn't working is that little to no plastic is being extruded. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The nozzle appears to be getting to temperature, and some plastic comes out whilst it's heating, but then when it starts to move and print, no plastic comes out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My thoughts are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Have I not loaded the plastic properly&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is the extruder engine not working i.e. not pulling the plastic through&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any hints on what I can try would be appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13784" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2018-12-20T12:11:22.730" LastActivityDate="2018-12-20T14:30:12.027" Title="Prusa i3 pro W - not extruding" Tags="|prusa-i3|extruder|troubleshooting|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7722" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-12-20T13:44:27.143" Score="1" ViewCount="42" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm working with a project involving 3D printing's terminology, but I'm not such an expert... so I was asking myself if someone can explain the meaning of the &quot;downstream&quot; adjective in this field. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More precisely, I'm dealing with this sentence: &quot;Handle any downstream task&quot;, which I really can't understand because it has a very poor context. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also have this sentence with the adjective that I'm having trouble with:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Confidently send your surfaces downstream knowing your results are usable design surfaces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13898" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-12-22T03:41:09.363" LastActivityDate="2018-12-22T03:41:09.363" Title="What the adjective &quot;downstream&quot; is used for?" Tags="|terminology|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2018-12-22T03:46:13.903" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7723" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7720" CreationDate="2018-12-20T13:57:06.497" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your description sounds indeed as if the PID is not correct. You can try autotune with M303 only if your heating cartridge is not absolutely overpowered. However, in such a case you typically also have an overshoot, which you don't mention in your description. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In that case you need to lower your duty cycle (by the BANG_MAX parameter in the firmware) a bit. Otherwise autotune fails, because your heating cartridge overshoots even at small gains.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Out of the box I would suggest you to increase your D-term and decrease your I term if it cycles like that. For most printers, I used, a ratio like that is sufficient: 4/1.5/25.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10847" LastEditorUserId="10847" LastEditDate="2018-12-20T14:08:24.363" LastActivityDate="2018-12-20T14:08:24.363" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7724" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7713" CreationDate="2018-12-20T14:24:49.597" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;One option would be to have your printer controlled by an Octoprint server.  You would then use the &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/chunkysteveo/OctoPrintAPI&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Octoprint Api plugin&lt;/a&gt; to use your arduino to send commands to octoprint - and from there, your printer.  Octoprint has a fairly fully-featured rest api that allows you to send arbitrary GCODE to your printer (&lt;a href=&quot;http://docs.octoprint.org/en/master/api/printer.html#send-an-arbitrary-command-to-the-printer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;see here&lt;/a&gt;).  You would then hook up your buttons to some code that sends the gcode commands to the printer when pressed.  It's certainly not as simple as installing a plugin - you'll have to write some interface code, but it looks like those APIs should be able to do what you want, without interfering with the standard controls at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7384" LastActivityDate="2018-12-20T14:24:49.597" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7725" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7721" CreationDate="2018-12-20T14:30:12.027" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Problem identified. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I took of the fan and heat sink so I could see what was going on in the mechanism that should pull through the filament.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using repetier-host software I tried to manually drive the motor - nothing happening.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I swapped the A4988 stepper motor driver for the extruder with another (and my x,y,z axis motors work) to see what would happen - and it worked!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So just a faulty A4988 on the extruder motor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also manually pushed filament through the hot end to ensure there was no blockage and it worked fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So hopefully GEEETECH can send me a replacement and I'm good to go!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13784" LastActivityDate="2018-12-20T14:30:12.027" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7726" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7729" CreationDate="2018-12-20T15:05:43.267" Score="2" ViewCount="128" Body="&lt;p&gt;To check my leveling etc. is correct I was going to print a wide and thin cube.  My theory being that I should be able to spot any obvious separation of the layers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone have any better shape that they print as a dry run?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13813" LastActivityDate="2019-03-07T14:27:11.510" Title="Calibration print shape" Tags="|calibration|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7727" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7719" CreationDate="2018-12-20T16:01:03.330" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;connected the 12 V, 3 A supply to the drain of the MOSFET. And connected the Resistance heater of the 3D printer to the source and ground.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The MOSFET is damaged. If the gate is at &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$0V$&lt;/span&gt;, no current should be able to flow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You're trying to use an N-channel MOSFET as a high-side switch. This is a bad idea, because it would require more than &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$12V$&lt;/span&gt; at the gate to turn the MOSFET on properly. It would be better to set this up as a low-side switch so that the microcontroller can drive the gate directly. The MOSFET should go between the load and ground, not between the load and &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$+12V$&lt;/span&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The fact that you connected it like this is the very reason the MOSFET has been damaged. When the MOSFET is OFF, there is &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$0V$&lt;/span&gt; across the heater. When the microcontroller starts to turn the MOSFET ON (by applying &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$5V$&lt;/span&gt; to the gate, thus increasing &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$V_{GS}$&lt;/span&gt; to above &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$V_{th}$&lt;/span&gt;), current starts to flow through the load and the voltage across the load increases. This in turn decreases &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$V_{GS}$&lt;/span&gt;, causing the MOSFET to turn off. You will end up with approximately &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$3V$&lt;/span&gt; across the load and &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$V_{GS}=2V$&lt;/span&gt;. You've got &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$9V$&lt;/span&gt; being dropped across your MOSFET and with a current of approximately &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$800mA$&lt;/span&gt;, the &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$7W$&lt;/span&gt; of heat produced will quickly kill the MOSFET.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastEditorUserId="26" LastEditDate="2018-12-22T15:08:29.497" LastActivityDate="2018-12-22T15:08:29.497" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7728" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7722" CreationDate="2018-12-20T16:22:04.803" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Without more anymore context &quot;downstream&quot; could be in reference to a print that would be sent to another machine for post-processing. The post-processing machine is &quot;downstream&quot; from the machine used to make the print in the first place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5507" LastActivityDate="2018-12-20T16:22:04.803" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7729" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7726" CreationDate="2018-12-20T16:36:10.517" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your calibration shape depends on what you want to calibrate on. Among the most popular:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Benchy as a general &quot;overall&quot; test.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lattice Cubes for retraction/stringing and overall quality.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Two pillars to test for stringing and temperature/cooling control.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Spikes for retraction, stringing and temperature/cooling control.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bridges for cooling control. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cubes for sizing. They also allow seeing if the printer is skewed in X or Y.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Circles, crosshairs, and squares of just a couple layers high to determine the correct center of the print area and measure sizing.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cylinders in each other to check the achievable resolution and clearance.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Overhang tests to test just overhangs.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Temperature towers for temperature and overhang.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3092557&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Impact&lt;/a&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; &amp;amp; &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3118965&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Bend&lt;/a&gt; &amp;amp; &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:483171&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Tension&lt;/a&gt; test pieces for filament properties - if you have the setups needed.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1 - I couldn't find a proper model for an &lt;em&gt;ISO 148-1 Charpy pendulum impact test&lt;/em&gt; in thingieverse&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-03-07T14:27:11.510" LastActivityDate="2019-03-07T14:27:11.510" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7730" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7565" CreationDate="2018-12-20T18:56:06.623" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Consider using Clara.io (100% free):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Export your Tinkercad project as OBJ.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Import in Clara.io&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Texture and render.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Clara.io is 100% web based. It is simple to learn if you have prior experience with other 3D renderers. If you don't, the learning curve might be steep though...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But : you have access to VRAY which in a free-to-use package, is simply awesome...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13901" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2018-12-20T19:24:04.217" LastActivityDate="2018-12-20T19:24:04.217" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7732" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7714" CreationDate="2018-12-20T20:02:34.120" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;this is normalISH for stepper motors. they have a fair ammount of current pulsing through them at relatively high frequencies, coils and other parts that will vibrate. if it quite loud you can look into the boards that drive them, depending on your printer they are replaceable, and better 'drivers' send cleaner signals that make less noise. however: if your motors get hot or start making clicking noises, or stop randomly, or acting up more significantly, you should look adjusting how much current they are getting. search for stepper motor calibration, basically you need to adjust the ammount of current the motors are getting, but if the machine prints normally, then this is not something you want to play with. you can also probably find the data sheet for your motor, they are usually rated to operate up to about 50C&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12706" LastActivityDate="2018-12-20T20:02:34.120" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7733" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-12-20T21:02:58.697" Score="2" ViewCount="266" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I am getting a Creality CR-10S which has a similar print frame with a lot of other printers. Eventually I'm sure I will want to print using flexible materials, but the bowden system is not optimal since you're basically trying to push cooked spaghetti through a tube. I could replace the bowden with a direct drive but that can be expensive (and potentially shave off 15 mm from one of my axes). Not to mention that the print head is now heavier which can affect print speeds and quality.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's when I thought about moving the extruder gear and motor from the side of my printer to the top. The tube then goes down the Z axis so the flexible filaments are pulled by gravity and controlled by the gear instead of just being pushed by the gear. (Please refer to my &lt;em&gt;wonderful&lt;/em&gt; sketch)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TDzVl.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TDzVl.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can't be the only one to think of this, but I've only seen one website that has talked about this issue and thinks that the solution is a second gantry to follow the hot end. If you're interested, here's the &lt;a href=&quot;https://mattshub.com/2017/09/30/belt-driven-extrusion/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;link&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any potential issues with this new setup? Though I would mount the servo above the cross beam instead of to the side so that there's full range of motion along the z axis. (sadly that thought came to me AFTER making the picture in paint)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13883" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2018-12-20T21:07:08.947" LastActivityDate="2018-12-20T21:35:07.230" Title="Moving Extruder Gear Assembly" Tags="|extruder|mechanics|hardware|flexible|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7734" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7733" CreationDate="2018-12-20T21:06:53.813" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hanging up the Bowden system won't fix the problems with printing flexible filament: the filament will still press into the bends of the tube and thus lead to under extrusion. Another issue is, that the flexible filament can compress - and the longer way it has to the melt-zone, the more filament it can &quot;store&quot; on the way to it. These bunched up zones will release suddenly, resulting in pulses of high output and between those under extrusion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Direct drive (like in a Prusa i3) is pretty much the only way to reliably print flexible materials. You could, with some engineering, move your existing motor to the carriage and turn your Bowden into a direct drive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2018-12-20T21:35:07.230" LastActivityDate="2018-12-20T21:35:07.230" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7735" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7667" CreationDate="2018-12-20T21:08:06.297" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The problem was that one of the pins on the Ramps board power supply header was not soldered. The manufacturer had omitted to solder one of the pins, so there was no power to D8. Fixed by soldering the pin in place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13832" LastEditorUserId="13832" LastEditDate="2018-12-20T21:53:16.807" LastActivityDate="2018-12-20T21:53:16.807" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7736" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2809" CreationDate="2018-12-21T10:38:00.510" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Prusa i3 and the same case happened to me. However, only the power cable to the mainboard was bad.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I cut it in order to solder a new one to the 4 pin connector but inside the cable sleeving, there wasn't any copper, only grey powder. With a new connector, and cables, it is working very well now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13914" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-12-21T15:03:18.020" LastActivityDate="2018-12-21T15:03:18.020" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7737" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-12-21T11:22:57.290" Score="1" ViewCount="392" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got a Geeetech Pro B i3 printer (my first 3d printer) and after I've assembled it I started testing the axis. X and Y work well but Z cannot move.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I disconnect the couplings the motors move by themselves and they move in the same direction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/K8vDl.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/K8vDl.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I help a little bit the motors, by turning with my hand, they move and sometimes move without helping anymore but it stops after a few seconds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know what do to. I've measured the rest of the setup to make sure there aren't any big differences that could create tension.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What do you suggest?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13912" LastActivityDate="2018-12-22T10:12:51.267" Title="Z Axis Cannot Move" Tags="|prusa-i3|z-axis|geeetech|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7740" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7742" CreationDate="2018-12-21T13:05:11.170" Score="5" ViewCount="6078" Body="&lt;p&gt;The first layer is very patchy indeed.  I've calibrated the build plate pretty accurately but even if it was a badly calibrated build plate I don't think it would have this effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://imgur.com/S4KsNA3.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://imgur.com/S4KsNA3.png&quot; alt=&quot;Patchy First Layer.&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It doesn't &lt;em&gt;seem&lt;/em&gt; to have a negative effect on the print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Should I be concerned about this? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is this due to a the build plate fault?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13813" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2018-12-21T13:55:32.927" LastActivityDate="2020-07-17T06:44:56.443" Title="Evidence of a warped build plate?" Tags="|print-quality|heated-bed|calibration|print-failure|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7741" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7707" CreationDate="2018-12-21T14:02:03.987" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Pausing a print: A vital aspect to anyone who tries to do something advanced with 3d printing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are three (3) things:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Never pause over the print. Your pause &quot;script&quot; should lift the head up from the model and rapidly move it over to a parking region, which is clear of the bed (ideally).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Keep the bed warm, but retract the filament. Ensure that the filament gets retracted prior to the pause. Also the bed must stay hot/warm to ensure the part doesn't loose adhesion, and doesn't begin to warp out of shape (in the case of ABS).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do not shut off the motors. If you are pausing so that you can insert objects into the print (screws, washers, electronics etc) then touching the print can cause the bed to shift. Keeping the motors running will help resist any movement of the build plate during said operation. If you are pausing to do a filament change then keeping the motors energized will help resist the back driving of the lead screw (or belts or whatever is moving the z axis) so that you don't accidentally push the z axis out of position.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course the most important thing is the resume command. It should &quot;undo&quot; the movements of the pause command and return the machine to a printing state.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12857" LastActivityDate="2018-12-21T14:02:03.987" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7742" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7740" CreationDate="2018-12-21T14:09:58.907" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;First things first:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Don't Panic&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your heated bed is made from metal with some sort of Build-Tak-Clone surface. It is not broken from what I can see. Your print is &lt;strong&gt;not failed&lt;/strong&gt;, however, the quality does suffer a little bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your bed does warp a little under heating. That is perfectly &lt;strong&gt;normal&lt;/strong&gt;, and you should actually calibrate your layer thickness against a hot heatbed, not a cold one as metal that is heatbed extends - especially over the heating elements. The main heating element is usually in the center, so it &amp;quot;bulges&amp;quot; a little there, and if the heat has not equalized everywhere, it can show a dimple around it. So it warps slightly. The extent of the warping is determined by a couple factors, but from what your print looks like, it is not in a worrisome amount - the second and third layers will even it out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can't tell how much time passed between reaching the print temperature of the bed and the start of the print, but you might want to make sure  the heating behavior heats the bed &lt;em&gt;first&lt;/em&gt; and the hotend &lt;em&gt;second&lt;/em&gt;, allowing the heat energy in the bed to spread more evenly. A tiny &lt;code&gt;G4 P20000 ; wait 20 seconds&lt;/code&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/526/8884&quot;&gt;(see here)&lt;/a&gt;` in the pre-print code, before &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/q/6355/8884&quot;&gt;cleaning &amp;amp; priming&lt;/a&gt; the nozzle might also help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can try to get more even first layers by positioning the parts in areas that do not suffer from warping.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/7744/8884&quot;&gt;Tom&lt;/a&gt; mentioned, you might get better base layers if you increase the first layer thickness. I usually print with about 0.15 to 0.2 mm for the first layer, &lt;em&gt;regardless&lt;/em&gt; of the following layer thickness to even out small miscalibrations and unevenness in the heating.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:29:41.667" LastActivityDate="2018-12-21T15:38:57.967" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7743" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7737" CreationDate="2018-12-21T14:16:09.990" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Check if your Z-Rods and motors are exactly vertical. If not, adjust as needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check if the brass nuts are perfectly aligned with the rods in the position they are forced in by the screws. Shim to adjust if needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If they are ok, then your brass nuts might need a little oiling/grease if they stick to the lead screw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2018-12-22T10:12:51.267" LastActivityDate="2018-12-22T10:12:51.267" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7744" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7740" CreationDate="2018-12-21T14:37:59.993" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;It looks like your first layer is way too close to the bed. The printer is trying to squash the plastic down very thinly, resulting in inconsistent extrusion. You will likely see better results if you move the nozzle away from the bed a little bit. Increasing the thickness of the first layer might help as well (this is a setting in your slicer).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keep in mind that if you're trying to print (e.g.) a first layer with a thickness of 0.05mm then a 0.025mm variation in the height of the build plate will result in very strong variation in the thickness of the extrusion on the first layer; in some places it will only be half as thick as in other places. If instead you used a 0.2mm first layer, then the 0.025mm variation barely makes a difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastActivityDate="2018-12-21T14:37:59.993" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7745" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-12-21T14:43:50.243" Score="3" ViewCount="17455" Body="&lt;p&gt;Before the print has actually started I have set up Auto Bed Leveling using a BLTouch sensor, during the period that this runs I find that material leaks out of the nozzle and curls back onto itself and by the time it finishes it is substantial enough to cause problems when the nozzle is primed  drawing the line to the left of the print. The material that leaks out catches on the material extruded to prime the nozzle, before printing the model so when the first line of the model are extruded to very quickly pulls up off the bed and becomes a massive tangle of material.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I try to catch it my self using various thin instruments to scrape it off the nozzle as it starts the priming but this isn't always successful and is far from ideal. I have also tried adding a retraction before the bed levelling starts suing the gcode commands added to the beginning of every print, at the moment however I find that a retraction large enough to stop the leaking material also means that material doesn't come out for the priming in time so the first lines of the print don't work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The gcode at the beginning of the print is as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;; Ender 3 Custom Start G-code&#xA;M104 S{material_print_temperature_layer_0} ; Set Extruder temperature&#xA;M140 S{material_bed_temperature_layer_0} ; Set Heat Bed temperature&#xA;M190 S{material_bed_temperature_layer_0} ; Wait for Heat Bed temperature&#xA;M109 S{material_print_temperature_layer_0} ; Wait for Extruder temperature&#xA;G28 ; Home all axes&#xA;G1 F1800 E-3 ; Retract filament 3 mm to prevent oozing&#xA;G29 ; BLTOUCH Mesh Generation&#xA;G92 E0 ; Reset Extruder&#xA;G1 Z5.0 F3000 ; Move Z Axis up little to prevent scratching of Heat Bed&#xA;G1 X0.1 Y20 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move to start position&#xA;G1 X0.1 Y200.0 Z0.3 F1500.0 E15 ; Draw the first line&#xA;G1 X0.4 Y200.0 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move to side a little&#xA;G1 X0.4 Y20 Z0.3 F1500.0 E30 ; Draw the second line&#xA;G92 E0 ; Reset Extruder&#xA;G1 Z5.0 F3000 ; Move Z Axis up little to prevent scratching of Heat Bed&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am using an Ender 3 running Marlin 1.1.9 with BlTouch Auto Leveling, With slicing done by CURA 3.5.6&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any suggestions you have that would help to stop this would be greatly appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13327" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-12-31T08:09:19.787" LastActivityDate="2020-01-20T02:51:50.657" Title="Filament Leaking During Automatic Bed Leveling" Tags="|extrusion|nozzle|creality-ender-3|bltouch|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7746" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-12-21T15:52:56.323" Score="2" ViewCount="482" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 3D printer at home, the Colido Compact, and for some reason when I 3D print big flat surfaces a really weird thing happens. I'm using some PLA from Colido too I think&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QOMPF.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Weeeird surface artefacts&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QOMPF.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Weeeird surface artefacts&quot; title=&quot;Weeeird surface artefacts&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It almost seems as if the bottom layer does perfectly but when it starts printing out the top surface this happens, because the one on the bottom left is in two parts because the upper part is the bottom one and that one is perfectly flat, then I took them apart and the weird thing just stayed with the top part... and also on the weird warps there are bits of brown goo or something? I don't know it looks as if the filament was burned...&#xA;It only appears on pretty big surfaces because smaller ones don't seem to have the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyone knows what is happening?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13918" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-12-22T03:44:53.837" LastActivityDate="2019-10-31T12:01:30.233" Title="Weird surface thing" Tags="|filament|3d-models|extrusion|slic3r|surface|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7747" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-12-21T16:06:18.033" Score="3" ViewCount="1805" Body="&lt;p&gt;When the material is extruded to prime the nozzle before the print starts it doesn't always stick to the bed for the first 20 or 30 mm of the line, causing the material extruded just after to peel off the bed as it is pulled up by the nozzle, eventually it does stick down to print a line but the parts that are not stuck to the bed can get caught by the nozzle as it comes back down to draw the second part of the line, this then ruins the first layer of the print of the actual model. On the occasions where the material does not get caught by the nozzle, there is stringing between the nozzle and the end of the line which itself can cause the first part of the bottom layer to have problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;should I include a retraction after the priming has finished as it travels to begin the print or would this cause under extrusion of the start of the model thereby defeating the purpose of the priming in the first place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The gcode that makes the nozzle prime at the beginning of the print is as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;; Ender 3 Custom Start G-code&#xA;M104 S{material_print_temperature_layer_0} ; Set Extruder temperature&#xA;M140 S{material_bed_temperature_layer_0} ; Set Heat Bed temperature&#xA;M190 S{material_bed_temperature_layer_0} ; Wait for Heat Bed temperature&#xA;M109 S{material_print_temperature_layer_0} ; Wait for Extruder temperature&#xA;G28 ; Home all axes&#xA;G1 F1800 E-3 ; Retract filament 3 mm to prevent oozing&#xA;G29 ; BLTOUCH Mesh Generation&#xA;G92 E0 ; Reset Extruder&#xA;G1 Z5.0 F3000 ; Move Z Axis up little to prevent scratching of Heat Bed&#xA;G1 X0.1 Y20 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move to start position&#xA;G1 X0.1 Y200.0 Z0.3 F1500.0 E15 ; Draw the first line&#xA;G1 X0.4 Y200.0 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move to side a little&#xA;G1 X0.4 Y20 Z0.3 F1500.0 E30 ; Draw the second line&#xA;G92 E0 ; Reset Extruder&#xA;G1 Z5.0 F3000 ; Move Z Axis up little to prevent scratching of Heat Bed&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am using an Ender 3 running Marlin 1.1.9 with BlTouch Auto Leveling, With slicing done by CURA 3.5.6&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any suggestions you have for how to stop the priming problems will be greatly appreciated. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13327" LastActivityDate="2018-12-21T16:49:22.537" Title="Material extruded to prime the nozzle doesn't stick to bed at first" Tags="|extrusion|nozzle|creality-ender-3|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7748" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7747" CreationDate="2018-12-21T16:49:22.537" Score="1" Body="&lt;h1&gt;Have you tried using a raft&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had the same issue on my mini delta when I first started printing with it. After checking and double checking the bed level I ended up discovering that using a raft base in Cura solved the issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It does use more plastic however I have had absolutely no issues with respect to sticking in the dozen or so prints since then. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally it makes removing the print from the bed really easy as I'm not worried about damaging the print with a scraper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13919" LastActivityDate="2018-12-21T16:49:22.537" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7749" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7750" CreationDate="2018-12-21T18:39:06.110" Score="3" ViewCount="1777" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a STL file with a rather large roughly-spherical object. I'd like to 3D print it to be fairly large, and hollow inside. Since the printer I'd be using has a max size of (18–20 cm)^3, I'd have to print this in pieces and then reassemble them into the sphere-like shape. The textured surface of the object is important, but small seams would seem unavoidable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;My Question&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;How could I 3D print a hollow sphere or sphere-like object that's too large for the available basic 3D printer?&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because this would need to be done in parts, it's more complicated than the designs I've made. Because the final product is roughly spherical and hollow (i.e. nothing is nicely angular), it's trickier than some other designs. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(I have little experience with 3D modelling/CAD, so I'd &lt;em&gt;somewhat prefer&lt;/em&gt; solutions with minimal advanced steps such as designing my own joints and whatnot...but advanced steps are definitely okay if part of a great solution!) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;My Ideas So Far&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know I could cut the sphere roughly in (e.g.) eighths via planar slices, print the eight pieces individually, but then the question is how to attach them. I am also concerned that the seams might be too noticeable. (Perhaps there's a better way?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I could just glue the pieces together. My fear then is that it would lack internal structural support if they were attached &lt;em&gt;only&lt;/em&gt; at the outer layer (unless the skin thickness were excessive, at least near the boundary). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I imagine I could give the pieces internal supports with dowel joints or snap-fit joints (e.g. &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.3dhubs.com/knowledge-base/how-design-snap-fit-joints-3d-printing&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;these&lt;/a&gt;), but I lack knowledge of how to do that and don't know whether that would even work well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13435" LastActivityDate="2018-12-22T00:17:47.840" Title="How could I print a large sphere-like object?" Tags="|3d-design|slicing|post-processing|support-structures|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7750" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7749" CreationDate="2018-12-21T19:16:02.697" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;A sphere can be put together quarters easily, but those need support in the center. However, there is a slightly different cut is more economic:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cut a top and bottom &quot;plate&quot; off, print them separately, the lower one &quot;upside down&quot;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cut the remaining piece into quarters&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;For more equal printing, maybe even cut them along the equator too and print the lower half &quot;upside down&quot;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7nhN9.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7nhN9.png&quot; alt=&quot;A simple sphere, cut off top and bottom, then quartered&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This way, the support material can be reduced to a minimum - only the top and bottom will need any support, and it is easily accessible to smooth it away.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the walls would be something like one millimeter thick, any good glue should work. If you want to reduce the visible seam, you might bevel the faces, so that the wall has a little gap on the &lt;em&gt;inner&lt;/em&gt; wall. As most glues shrink as they harden, it will flatten into the &quot;gap&quot;, evening out the internal face. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2018-12-22T00:17:47.840" LastActivityDate="2018-12-22T00:17:47.840" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7751" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7372" CreationDate="2018-12-22T00:31:42.477" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The latest update to Cura (3.6.0 at time of writing) added a printer configuration specifically for the Ender 3. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;The &lt;code&gt;Start G-code&lt;/code&gt; script now includes the following:&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;; Ender 3 Custom Start G-code&#xA;G28 ; Home all axes&#xA;G92 E0 ; Reset Extruder&#xA;G1 Z2.0 F3000 ; Move Z Axis up little to prevent scratching of Heat Bed&#xA;G1 X0.1 Y20 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move to start position&#xA;G1 X0.1 Y200.0 Z0.3 F1500.0 E15 ; Draw the first line&#xA;G1 X0.4 Y200.0 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move to side a little&#xA;G1 X0.4 Y20 Z0.3 F1500.0 E30 ; Draw the second line&#xA;G92 E0 ; Reset Extruder&#xA;G1 Z2.0 F3000 ; Move Z Axis up little to prevent scratching of Heat Bed&#xA;; End of custom start GCode&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This prints 2 initial lines, right along the left edge of the print bed. This solves the priming issue completely and results in a perfect initial border on the rafts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This would indicate this priming issue is a known problem with the Ender 3.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13402" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2018-12-22T00:33:08.123" LastActivityDate="2018-12-22T00:33:08.123" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7752" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7722" CreationDate="2018-12-22T03:39:09.687" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Imagine an assembly line and the flow of the material along that line. That flow is analogous to a river, and therefore any machining/processing following on from &lt;em&gt;any point&lt;/em&gt; along that line is considered to be downstream of &lt;em&gt;that point&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Downstream_(manufacturing)&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Wikipedia - Downstream (Manufacturing)&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Downstream in manufacturing refers to processes that occur later on in a production sequence or production line. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4762" LastActivityDate="2018-12-22T03:39:09.687" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7753" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7676" CreationDate="2018-12-22T07:43:31.107" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;The answer to your question (baring in mind that the question is raised for Marlin 1.1.9) is the file &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/blob/1.1.x/Marlin/ultralcd.cpp&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;ultralcd.cpp&lt;/a&gt;. Nowadays, you can also enable extra option through the &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/blob/1.1.x/Marlin/Configuration_adv.h#L1546&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Configuration_adv.h&lt;/a&gt; file, just enable:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#define CUSTOM_USER_MENUS&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and edit the options beneath it to your needs (otherwise it will use the preset values from the &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/blob/1.1.x/Marlin/Configuration.h#L1255&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Configuration.h&lt;/a&gt; file).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Add custom items using ultralcd.cpp&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is how I used to do it if you want to add items to the menu in Marlin Firmware through the ultralcd.cpp. It is best to first look at the current implementation of the menu items. As you already mention &lt;code&gt;Preheat PLA&lt;/code&gt;, that would be the first to search for. Searching in files is easy when you go to the github website with the Marlin firmware sources, functionality is available for searching in the files. Alternatively, download a copy of the firmware and use a free &amp;quot;grep&amp;quot; utility to search in files.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Searching for &lt;code&gt;Preheat PLA&lt;/code&gt; will show you a bunch of language translation files. These point to the use of a constant &lt;code&gt;MSG_PREHEAT_1&lt;/code&gt; which finds its presence in &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/blob/1.1.x/Marlin/ultralcd.cpp&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;ultralcd.cpp&lt;/a&gt;. This hints to function &lt;code&gt;lcd_preheat_m1_menu&lt;/code&gt; that is called by &lt;code&gt;MENU_ITEM&lt;/code&gt; which adds menu items to LCD. You could start there to add your own option.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Demonstration&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a quick demonstration, I've added a &lt;code&gt;CUSTOM PREHEAT&lt;/code&gt; item by copying the &lt;code&gt;lcd_preheat_m2_menu&lt;/code&gt; function in &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/blob/1.1.x/Marlin/ultralcd.cpp&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;ultralcd.cpp&lt;/a&gt; and renamed this &lt;code&gt;lcd_preheat_m3_menu&lt;/code&gt; (a full functional item needs changes within the &lt;code&gt;lcd_preheat_m3_menu&lt;/code&gt; as it now uses the constants from the ABS preheat option).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You then add the item to the menu by changing this part of the code:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&#xA;      //&#xA;      // Preheat for Material 1 and 2&#xA;      //&#xA;      #if TEMP_SENSOR_1 != 0 || TEMP_SENSOR_2 != 0 || TEMP_SENSOR_3 != 0 || TEMP_SENSOR_4 != 0 || HAS_HEATED_BED&#xA;        MENU_ITEM(submenu, MSG_PREHEAT_1, lcd_preheat_m1_menu);&#xA;        MENU_ITEM(submenu, MSG_PREHEAT_2, lcd_preheat_m2_menu);&#xA;        // ADD THIS LINE:&#xA;        MENU_ITEM(submenu, &quot;CUSTOM PREHEAT&quot;, lcd_preheat_m3_menu);&#xA;      #else&#xA;        MENU_ITEM(function, MSG_PREHEAT_1, lcd_preheat_m1_e0_only);&#xA;        MENU_ITEM(function, MSG_PREHEAT_2, lcd_preheat_m2_e0_only);&#xA;      #endif&#xA;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After compiling and uploading to the printer board, enter the &lt;code&gt;Prepare&lt;/code&gt; menu and scroll down to see:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/X5eUD.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/X5eUD.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;LCD showing custom preheat option&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2022-04-05T18:24:40.420" LastActivityDate="2022-04-05T18:24:40.420" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7754" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-12-22T13:01:28.873" Score="2" ViewCount="706" Body="&lt;p&gt;I printed out this calibration shape from &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2656594&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Thingiverse&lt;/a&gt; with an unexpectedly catastrophic failure.  It looks like there are &lt;em&gt;a lot&lt;/em&gt; of things wrong here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/V7QlZ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Front View&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QbZTR.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Side View&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I used the &lt;code&gt;Normal&lt;/code&gt; profile in Ultimaker Cura.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's so much bad in this print that I'm not sure where to start.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It appears that walls weren't printed at all.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Resolution is way below par.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Overhangs are collapsing (not sure if that would be expected at those angles)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The in-filling is inconsistent and &quot;blobby&quot;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13813" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-12-22T14:53:43.840" LastActivityDate="2018-12-22T18:56:25.437" Title="Dramatic failure of calibration print" Tags="|print-quality|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7755" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7754" CreationDate="2018-12-22T13:27:16.433" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The failure you are faicing is underextrusion. Underextrusion can have several reasons. Among the three most common I encountered in &lt;em&gt;my&lt;/em&gt; printers:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The nozzle could be clogged, hindering flow (Very crushy, squishy prints after it worked fine before)&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Dissemble the filament path till you can push an acupuncture needle through the hotend, heat it, press out all filament, reassemble. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The extruder might be skipping steps or shredding filament&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;check if it is just not gripping the filament, not turning at all or clicking.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;real Troubleshooting might be needed&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The g-code might have a bad setup for the filament you are using - try upping the &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/6969/8884&quot;&gt;higher extrusion multiplier/flow rate&lt;/a&gt; and print at least 2 walls!&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In Ultimaker Cura: Custom &gt; Material &gt; Flow&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xjBlR.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xjBlR.png&quot; alt=&quot;Flow Rate&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If not there yet: Gear &gt; Material &gt; hook Flow&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vuE18.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vuE18.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2018-12-22T18:56:25.437" LastActivityDate="2018-12-22T18:56:25.437" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7756" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7758" CreationDate="2018-12-22T14:54:24.457" Score="4" ViewCount="2510" Body="&lt;p&gt;Current main problem is that at various points during a print, one layer doesn’t attach well to the layer below it. That is what appears to be causing the artifacts in the second picture below, but the picture may not show it clearly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Background&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a Makerbot Replicator 5th generation printer. This is the one that is very locked down. As far as I know it can only use the slicer it comes with, Makerbot print, but I'd be happy to be told otherwise. It only prints in PLA and @Trish gave some good advice on drying out the filament. I've also leveled the print bed. Prints have improved from where they couldn't even finish to now where they just aren't very good quality.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The issue I'm having now seems to be primarily that one build layer sometimes doesn't stick to the one below it very well. Then they peel up and the nozzle pulls them and re-melts them into a blob. I've attached two pictures. It's worse in the first one, then I lowered the first model layer fan setting from 50% to 45% and it improved and I was able to get the print in the second picture.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any help on what settings I can change would be great. Is this because it is underextruding? I think I'm stuck with whatever setting options are available in the Makerbot.print software.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wJZOS.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wJZOS.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;First&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Htl1j.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Htl1j.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Second&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Print settings&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The default print temp for this printer is 215. This is at 210 degrees, but those blobs aren't actually burned they are a mix of the previous red filament that was on the outside of the nozzle. The travel speed is 150 mm/s, First model layer print speed is 30mm/s, Raft to model shell vertical offset is 0.26mm, Raft to model vertical offset is 0.33mm (I can't tell what the different between those is), z-offset is 0 (default), Layer height is 0.14mm. In the second picture the print was attached but separated easily from the raft.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A couple more settings that might matter is the Print speed: Outlines is 20mm/s, and the Print Speed: Infill is 90mm/s&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Update 3/15/19&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I made several of the changes suggested including lowering the temperature, leveling the bed, adjusting the Z-offset, and lowering the infill speed. I also continued to dry the filament in a dry box with a lot of desicant that I dry periodically. The desicant seemed to make much more difference than drying the filament at 50C for a couple hours. Print quality has improved a lot, but isn't great. I'm coming to the conclusion that the filament has been damaged by poor storage. It has been left in a drawer in a humid, hot room over the past summer or more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm still using a raft because prints fail completely without it and work reasonably well with one so I have no problem using a raft. Now most of my problem is blobs of filament that I think are running down the nozzle from the heater core. I may have to take some timelapse video to figure that part out. I'm also having some stringing which may be a filament quality issue and some layer shifting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13841" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:29:41.667" LastActivityDate="2023-03-04T17:33:22.377" Title="Makerbot Replicator (5th generation) poor print quality" Tags="|print-quality|pla|makerbot|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7757" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7754" CreationDate="2018-12-22T15:14:41.747" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The best thing that you can do &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;first&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; is find out &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;whether you extrude the correct amount of filament&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; before trying all sorts of things. You clearly have an under-extrusion problem. Please look into question: &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6483/how-do-i-calibrate-the-extruder-of-my-printer&quot;&gt;How do I calibrate the extruder of my printer?&lt;/a&gt;&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason why you aren't extruding can be found in e.g. &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/7755/5740&quot;&gt;this answer&lt;/a&gt;. Note that the list in the answer excludes the stepper driver. If the current is too low, the torque is too low to push the filament (see &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/7703/5740&quot;&gt;this similar answer for stepper torque&lt;/a&gt;). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Side note&lt;/strong&gt;:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Note that a properly setup extruder never has a need to adjust the flow unless the extruder is calibrated for 1.75&amp;nbsp;mm filament and the used filament is of different diameter.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2018-12-22T15:14:41.747" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7758" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7756" CreationDate="2018-12-22T23:04:51.083" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your printer is improperly leveled with respect to the distance of the nozzle to the bed. This, and a high raft to print part distance, causes consecutive layers to not adhere well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PLA should not need that high temperatures to print nor does it need a raft. Rafts are interesting when printing filaments that have high shrinkage. Furthermore, a 90 mm/s infill speed is pretty high, and do not use the part cooling fan for the first few layers (if you cool too much it can curl up).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You need to re-level the bed and make sure that the nozzle to build plate distance is the thickness of a sheet of A4 paper when &lt;code&gt;Z = 0&lt;/code&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2018-12-22T23:04:51.083" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7759" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-12-23T13:07:31.297" Score="3" ViewCount="1816" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an Anet A8 and I currently try to improve the y-axis (with a tensioner and a frame to support the structure). Now after I dis- and reassembled the y-axis, I get a loud rattling noise when homing the y-axis (and also when moving it stepwise from within the firmware). After the rattling goes on for a second or two, the printer halts and asks to reset. During the rattling, the print bed moves much slower. It appears to only rattle at the end of the axis, close to the endstop, however the point at which it starts to rattle appears random.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried a tighter and looser belt and aligning the frame. When moving the bed manually, it does require some force, but it does not appear to be tighter at the back side of the axis. Also nothing seems to block the path of movement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I noticed that with a tighter belt the rattling starts only closer to the end stop, however it appears like I have to overtighten it to work properly. I got it to hit the end stop this way without halting, however it still produced the rattling sound. Also the y-stepper motor made a high pitched humming noise after this operation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What else could I check or do about it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a video showing the print bed with the rattling sound:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H0Xhz2GtUYQ&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H0Xhz2GtUYQ&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;View from below:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/oTEuZUWD0ZM&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://youtu.be/oTEuZUWD0ZM&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the motor mount:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7xmJM.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7xmJM.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And this is the tensioner with the support frame:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5wz8u.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5wz8u.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13147" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2018-12-23T13:52:52.737" LastActivityDate="2018-12-23T14:36:45.390" Title="Failing y-axis home with loud rattling" Tags="|anet-a8|y-axis|belt|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7760" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-12-23T13:13:57.627" Score="1" ViewCount="1482" Body="&lt;p&gt;I built a drybox to house the filament roll but now I have to figure out how to attach the PTFE bowden tubing to the other side of the extruder. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Currently the filament just feeds in through the countersunk hole on the MK8 CR-10 style extruder tension lever, but is too close to the Z leadscrew to tap the hole and put a PC4-M6 push fitting. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the preferred way to attach this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;THanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13829" LastActivityDate="2018-12-23T13:30:16.210" Title="How to attach bowden tubing to other side of extruder?" Tags="|filament|diy-3d-printer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7761" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7760" CreationDate="2018-12-23T13:30:16.210" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are several ways to mount a PTFE tubing to the extruder's feeding side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Connector solution&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll need a pair of PTFE tubing couplers, a length of PTFE tubing and tapping tools for the mounting, and the lever should be &lt;strong&gt;metal&lt;/strong&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Disassemble the extruder&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Take the intake side lever&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;open up the intake hole to your PTFE tube connector's inner diameter (that is the diameter, where you cut the thread from!)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;tap the hole&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;screw in PTFE coupler&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;connect to intake tube&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Repeat 3 to 6 for the drybox side, possibly add a nut from the inside&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Feed filament through the tube&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have a &lt;strong&gt;plastic&lt;/strong&gt; side, it reads like this, and you will need an insert that fits your adapter's screw:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Disassemble the extruder&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Take the intake side lever&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;open up the intake hole to a bit under your insert's outer diameter&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;use a soldering iron to melt the insert into the lever&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;screw in PTFE coupler&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;connect to intake tube&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Repeat 3 to 6 for the drybox side&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Feed filament through the tube&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;free &quot;inner&quot; side&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Instead of using 2 connectors on either end of the tube, the one on the extruder can just be &quot;slid&quot; into the block and then fastened.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;disassemble the extruder&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;take the intake side lever&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;drill open till the PTFE tube can slide in snugly into its rest position against an inner ledge.&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;For REALLY hygroscopic material, drill &lt;em&gt;through&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;drill a side-hole and use a small screw to fasten the tube in place&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;alternatively, use hot glue on the outside and secure the tube.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastActivityDate="2018-12-23T13:30:16.210" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7762" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7759" CreationDate="2018-12-23T13:48:16.600" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;With the second video and the photos I could identify, that the sound in part stems from the belt:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It is too loose and swing &lt;strong&gt;sideways&lt;/strong&gt; as it pulls.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tighten the belt till it sounds &lt;em&gt;at least&lt;/em&gt; like a C&lt;sub&gt;3&lt;/sub&gt; or D&lt;sub&gt;3&lt;/sub&gt; (130/146 Hz) and possibly higher. My Ender3 is &lt;em&gt;tuned&lt;/em&gt; to something like A&lt;sub&gt;3&lt;/sub&gt; (220 Hz). It should be tight and show no sideways swinging on using the motor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems also, that the belt is not running parallel but skewed - that would induce sideways swing too. Make sure the axis of the motor and the pully are parallel and the mounting point of the carriage is not sideways of the belt path, as this will rub the belt against the gear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2018-12-23T13:56:46.453" LastActivityDate="2018-12-23T13:56:46.453" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7763" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7759" CreationDate="2018-12-23T14:36:45.390" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;From your video, it sounds to me as though the stepper motor is fighting against the bed movement. That would indicate to me the bed rails on the X-axis are not square to the bed movement, which would cause binding of the linear bearings on the bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To see if this is the issue, loosen the threaded rods in all six places (three placed times two rods). Loosen the belt tensioner so it is not causing any issues. Then see how the bed moves. If the bed is freed up, tighten the nuts on the threaded rods two at a time on the same plane (each plate of the frame). At each tightening, ensure the bed continues to move freely. Measure the distance as accurately as possible to ensure the frame continues to stay square and are parallel to each other. Once you have tightened all of the nuts on the threaded rod, then re-tighten the belt tensioner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If none of this solves it, it could also be an issue with your linear bearings. If your Anet A8 is a Chinesium clone, the bearings are not what I'd call &quot;top notch&quot;. I replaced mine with Igus Drylin bearings and have not regretted the $10 investment. There are other printed options you could go with as well, which you can find on &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/search?q=linear+bearings&amp;amp;dwh=965c1f9d491dd88&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;thingiverse.com&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11242" LastActivityDate="2018-12-23T14:36:45.390" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7764" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-12-23T17:57:41.440" Score="3" ViewCount="1124" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am using Ultimaker Cura to try and get my simple metal back up and running again. It is the strangest thing as this thing has printed decently for four years with just one calibration being the initial calibration without needing adjustments. I moved recently and the printer has been stored for almost a year. I plug in and updated Ultimaker Cura and then found out the printer won't connect just through Ultimaker Cura anymore and I would need something called Pronterface. I followed instructions from a different printer forum and then encounter that the printer won't connect to Pronterface either. Both with same error message reading.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Error message reads in Pronterface as:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;[ERROR] Could not connect to COM3 at baudrate 250000:&#xA;Serial error: could not open port 'COM3': WindowsError(5, 'Access is denied.')&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have already checked the ports in device manager and see the the printer is in COM3 and I have tried all Baud rates including 115200 and 250000 and 96000, and the hard reset button next to the connect button three times trick and still the same error message nothing will work. Please help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13933" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-12-25T16:54:18.910" LastActivityDate="2018-12-25T16:54:18.910" Title="Pronterface won't connect to Printrbot Simple metal with error message" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|diy-3d-printer|software|pronterface|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7765" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7768" CreationDate="2018-12-23T21:52:08.163" Score="0" ViewCount="228" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm in dire need to reprint a small chunk of a print that got messed up during print because the support for it broke which I cannot explain whatsoever.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway. I need to edit the STL file and I don't know what tool to use since Blender is definitely not user friendly for just a simple cut and past.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyone got an idea on what I should try to do? Reprinting is definitely out of question since that would take at least another 20 hours, that I haven't got, to reprint the whole thing and I would also just waste a lot of PLA.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13934" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2018-12-25T16:55:54.337" LastActivityDate="2018-12-26T15:41:00.360" Title="Need help to only print one small part" Tags="|slicing|stl|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7767" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7765" CreationDate="2018-12-23T22:12:18.093" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could import the STL file in a 3D CAD modelling program and edit it there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To not give an opinionated answer, there are many free or paid alternatives available. Loading the STL generally requires it to be scaled down to one tenth of the imported size and transform the surface model into a solid. Once you have the solid you can cut away what you do not need.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2018-12-23T22:12:18.093" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7768" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7765" CreationDate="2018-12-23T22:35:02.713" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Alright so I asked in my facebook group and a friendly fellow game me the tip to use Meshmixer from AutoCAD and then check a video on Plane cut. I only needed 3 simple cuts and the piece I needed was all ready to print. :) 40 Minutes to print and only 3g of PLA to spend :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13934" LastActivityDate="2018-12-23T22:35:02.713" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7769" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7765" CreationDate="2018-12-23T22:36:36.453" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most slicers like Cura allow doing a Z-Plane cut by pushing the model &quot;into&quot; the base or setting a negative Z position. This is usually very helpful if a print fails on a known layer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastActivityDate="2018-12-23T22:36:36.453" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7770" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2910" CreationDate="2018-12-24T07:12:44.557" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;(preface : I originally intent to write this as a comment, but the volume limit reached. In that tone, I'll utilize this answer space writing it..)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;to simulate those material change behavior in respect to time?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;COMSOL, ANSYS or equivalent ring a bell to be.. as long as you have the material properties (young's modulus, density, thermal transport &amp;amp; expansion properties, color?) right.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also. depending on your actual implementation resolution (nano-scale production.. macro/mini-lego sized assembly), you may want to adjust the mesh size for the finite element method solver.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;software for 4D Printing&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your 4th D refers to time.. then the discussion ends here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your 4th D is a space (not time) dimension.. Then you need to convert your 4D geometric object into a 3D shadow (just like generating the normal 2D shadow from a 3D geometric object) 1st to proceed. just like an 3D object (eg cube) can have multiple equivalent 2D form (or shadow). The same applies for 4D to 3D. Once you get the 3D coordinates of the chosen 3D form, you may print it as usual. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Software wise.. mathematica (are used in the some of the example I've seen, others unknown/selfcoded) or equivalent will do.. but the key here is not the software.. it's the visualization algorithm. If you can get the &quot;shadowing&quot; algorithm done right, any 3D/math software will do. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;p/s : I didn't expect the materials modelling question coming when I read the title (I really thought this question refers to extra space dimension) .. but yeah.. why not. It's a good postgraduate/research topic to take on. ( :&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13937" LastActivityDate="2018-12-24T07:12:44.557" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7771" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7773" CreationDate="2018-12-24T10:38:41.803" Score="3" ViewCount="2177" Body="&lt;p&gt;My Anet A8 suddenly had issues with being unable to heat the bed. After ruling out software issues, I disconnected the connector and found this (sorry for the terrible quality):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7WYfE.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7WYfE.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Faulty connector: left male, right female, indicator on the burnt pin&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The left most pin on the male connector (bed) is also charred. How could I best repair this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9237" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-12-24T15:29:13.157" LastActivityDate="2019-11-21T22:30:25.563" Title="How to repair burnt heat bed connector?" Tags="|anet-a8|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7772" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7771" CreationDate="2018-12-24T11:41:23.283" Score="3" Body="&lt;h1&gt;New Bed (Connection)&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will at least need a new female connector, but as the connector burnt, you have some underlying problem that made the connector burn in the first place: either the board is sending bad signals to the bed, or the bed is not rated for the board or you &lt;em&gt;just&lt;/em&gt; had a faulty connector (the most usual culprit). Honestly? Replace the whole connector for a properly rated and intact pair - these pin connectors are not rated for 12 V at all but for 5 V!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't use a beefier connector, solder the wires &lt;em&gt;directly&lt;/em&gt; to the bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Safety first!&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anet isn't known for good firmware implementation of safety, so make twice sure that you &lt;strong&gt;run a firmware that has Thermal Runaway Protection enabled!&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:29:41.667" LastActivityDate="2018-12-24T18:31:38.007" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7773" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7771" CreationDate="2018-12-24T15:13:41.070" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Owning an Anet A8 I confirm that the connectors are not rated for the amount of current that pass through them. &lt;strong&gt;You do not need a new bed unless the heat element has burned through&lt;/strong&gt; (but that is pretty uncommon, it usually is the connector). This burning of the bed connectors is a very well known problem of the Anet A8 printers; these connectors are just not rated for the current and the movement of the bed. It is best not to use a connector at all! And yes, the Anet A8 default printer firmware does not have any build in protection for &lt;a href=&quot;/q/8466&quot;&gt;thermal runaway&lt;/a&gt;! It is always advised to immediately flash another firmware, e.g. &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/tree/1.1.x/Marlin&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Marlin firmware&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The best repair is to get some high quality silicone AWG 14/16 wires and solder these directly onto the back of the pins of the connector. Also crimp forks to the other end to connect the wires correctly to the printer board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I did was cutting up the connector to leave only the 2 middle pins (for connecting the bed thermistor, which does not use much power) and soldered the red wire to the left 2 pins and the black to the right 2 pins. You can do that at the back side of the socket where the pins make an angle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-11-21T22:30:25.563" LastActivityDate="2019-11-21T22:30:25.563" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7774" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7775" CreationDate="2018-12-24T17:55:03.473" Score="4" ViewCount="775" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=13860&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Monoprice Maker Select v2&lt;/a&gt; printer which has a printing height of 7&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried to print this &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2638524&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;trophy&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first time I printed, it stopped about 3/4 of the way (about 5.5&quot;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I use Ultimaker Cura to move the model's z-position down, effectively splitting it in half to print the top half. But on the 2nd print, it seems to have stopped at the same point. There was a lot of extra PLA filament curled up at the end.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kVw02.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kVw02.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Printer trophies&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oKWbq.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oKWbq.png&quot; alt=&quot;Slicer view&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Did my printer just jam or am I missing a setting that allows it to print the remaining top portion?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13712" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-12-10T06:13:57.200" LastActivityDate="2019-12-10T06:13:57.200" Title="Why does my model stop printing at the same spot?" Tags="|print-quality|ultimaker-cura|monoprice-maker-select|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7775" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7774" CreationDate="2018-12-24T20:09:17.770" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The answer is that you have not used support structures. The printing fails as a result of missing support structures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you look closely to the Ace of Clubs card at the top, you will see that the lower point is being printed from out of nothing, this corner needs to be supported. When unsupported, the extruded filament flows freely and where it deposits is unknown. Usually this extruded filament sticks to the nozzle or ends up stuck at the next piece of the printed layer building up. This build-up can cause the head to hit the print and ruin the print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To enable support in Ultimaker Cura configure your setting accordingly:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LUJip.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LUJip.png&quot; alt=&quot;Support settings&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These settings are accessible when you select custom settings:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4XyaQ.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4XyaQ.png&quot; alt=&quot;Advanced or custom Ultimake Cura settings&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the options aren't visible, use:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sAFhw.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sAFhw.png&quot; alt=&quot;Search for settings in Ultimaker Cura&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;and type in the option.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Please do note that using supports does not guarantee that the print will not fail! Especially when using long slender support structures, the chance that a support structure fails increases with the amount of support structures and the length of the structure. Sometimes long slender support structures are knocked over.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Sidenote:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Your printer has more issues, if you look at the brim, it is not a continuous bed adhesion layer, it looks like it does not adhere too well, see also the bottom of your trophy.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-12-24T21:23:39.237" LastActivityDate="2018-12-24T21:23:39.237" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7776" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7803" CreationDate="2018-12-24T20:26:50.463" Score="4" ViewCount="663" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an object that has cutouts in it (alignment pins fit in the cutouts). The shape of the hole is a right triangle with the point clipped off to create a flat surface in the deep part of the hole.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I print the object in vertical orientation the wall in the deepest part of the cutout is printed properly. But when I print the same object laying down flat on the build plate, the internal wall is not printed and I can see the infill grid through the hole where the wall is supposed to be. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I sliced the object with a slicer based off a recent Cura version. I'm using the same STL to print the object vertically and horizontally.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why is this occurring? Is there anything I can do about it other than printing vertically? (Because I have a need to print the real part horizontally. The part shown here is just a thin test piece.)  Thank you&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/s3p0E.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/s3p0E.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Same object showing vertical / horizontal printing orientations&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LB0ES.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LB0ES.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;The horizontal print position does not print the inner wall of the hole&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a picture showing what the (Cura-derived) slicer does with the model in horizontally-printed position. I checked the layer display in the vertically-printed instance, and the missing wall was correctly rendered and visible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I guess this is some kind of a slicer bug.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/f3hg3.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/f3hg3.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Layer view showing the missing back wall&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a large-scale picture of what the cutout shape looks like. This picture is of the protrusion tab that fits into the hole. But the same shape was used to cut the hole in the object.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/v07oz.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/v07oz.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;The shape used to cut the hole&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is another instance of the same problem. This time, I made up a simple block component, a simple cylinder component, aligned the cylinder into the block volume, and did a combine/cut operation in Fusion to cut a hole in the block (visible in the STL file). As you can see from the (Cura-derived) slicer layer image below, the same problem exists - no wall at the back of the cut when printing in the horizontal position. If I draw a sketch on the block and extrude/cut into the block, I get the same results. I also tried cutting the cylindrical hole, creating a &quot;tin can&quot; shell cylinder with an explicit bottom-of-the-can surface, sliding the open can into the cut hole, and joining the can to the block. Same results. The explicit bottom 0.5 mm surface of the can disappears in the horizontal slicing position. Strange.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/162io.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/162io.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Simple cylinder component used as a cutting tool to cut into a block shows the same missing back wall problem.&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;UPDATE:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The test object is just a simple block with a cylinder extruded into the block as a cutout. As simple as simple can be. I have determined that Cura 3.5.0 works properly (Cura v3.6.0 is available). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am using the Qidi slicer v5.0.7 latest, which uses an earlier version of Cura (I don't know which one; I have sent them an email to find out).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have determined that the Qidi slicer behaves properly if the cutout cylinder diameter is 6mm or larger. But at 5mm, the slicer will not generate a back wall in the cut. The square/triangular cutouts in the example objects below are all 5 mm or less. My installed Cura 3.5.0 generates a proper back wall even at 5 mm. Therefore, it must be a bug in the Qidi slicer, which uses an older version of Cura. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a workaround, I will increase the size of my cutouts to 6 mm. When Qidi updates to a newer version of Cura (they are currently using 3.3), the problem should go away.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12981" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2020-08-15T20:34:38.870" LastActivityDate="2020-08-15T20:34:38.870" Title="Internal wall does not print in horizontal print orientation" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|slicing|infill|print-orientation|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7778" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7776" CreationDate="2018-12-24T21:59:45.923" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think this is caused by the shape of the hole. The shape is parabolic or circular, this means that if you slice it as in the green part, the slicer determines the placing of the layers along the curvature. If it has a shallow curvature, and slicing layer height is relatively thick, the curvature of the object cannot be followed. But, if you have more than 1 top layer, this usually should not be visible. I don't think that you have a single layer, so this is a pretty odd anomaly that I have not seen yet (that you look at the infill without top layers).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could get past this by using a local different infill, e.g. 100&amp;nbsp;% infill. You can look at &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/6523/5740&quot;&gt;this answer&lt;/a&gt; of &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/q/6522/5740&quot;&gt;the question: &quot;Different infill in the same part&quot;&lt;/a&gt;. This should help you out printing in your preferred orientation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2018-12-24T21:59:45.923" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7781" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-12-25T17:13:14.113" Score="2" ViewCount="1532" Body="&lt;p&gt;I printed a test cube with ABS on my Ender 3 and after some tuning, I still have a problem I cannot solve. Two of the vertical edges (I believe they are the ones on the X+ side) are slightly squished in. Could this be due to warping or something else? I printed it at 0.1 mm layer height, 235/110 °C hotend/bed temperatures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a picture:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/A45Rn.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/A45Rn.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13956" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-10-03T06:56:06.400" LastActivityDate="2020-10-03T06:56:06.400" Title="Cube edges squished?" Tags="|print-quality|creality-ender-3|troubleshooting|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7783" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7781" CreationDate="2018-12-26T07:31:04.230" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you look closely to your print you will see that the edges are part of the problem, e.g. you also have a problem called &quot;Elephant foot&quot; where the base shows a fairing to the build plate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The elephant foot deficiency is caused by an imbalanced choice of bed and hotend temperature and print cooling. This imbalance also causes the edges to collapse (probably also caused by the infill, or lack of it).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should look into finding a better printing temperature combo and experiment with little cooling. This will also help you to better print the rest of the cube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-12-27T12:36:44.693" LastActivityDate="2018-12-27T12:36:44.693" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7784" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-12-26T07:40:34.723" Score="5" ViewCount="4654" Body="&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately, my extruder 8825 driver ended up fried. I guess this might have damaged the Arduino Mega and RAMPS Board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tested the Arduino Mega and I'm pretty sure that it is fried too, so I bought a new one. I thought the MOSFETs on the RAMPS are damaged, so I removed them and tested them. One of them was not working, so I bought a new RAMPS Board too&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now I have a new 8825 driver, a new Arduino Mega and a new RAMPS 1.4 but the LCD still doesn't show anything and it just lights up on power up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13700" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-12-29T07:37:43.800" LastActivityDate="2018-12-30T01:52:00.563" Title="How to test Arduino Mega, RAMPS 1.4 and Full Graphic Smart Controller LCD?" Tags="|ramps-1.4|troubleshooting|arduino-mega-2650|extruder-driver|full-graphic-smart-controller|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7786" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-12-26T15:09:40.060" Score="6" ViewCount="5239" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can I Print models from Sources like &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Thingiverse&lt;/a&gt; and sell them ?&#xA;I will be only charging the print costs and will provide full credits and attributes to the original creator of the model (with links to their profiles) in my web-page.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are websites like &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.3dhubs.com/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;3dhubs&lt;/a&gt; where the seller will print any file the user uploads. Similarly I want to charge only for the printing services. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13967" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2018-12-26T16:43:35.657" LastActivityDate="2020-11-11T03:57:58.063" Title="Can I print and sell 3D models licensed under CC BY-NC-SA 3.0" Tags="|legal|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7787" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7765" CreationDate="2018-12-26T15:41:00.360" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would recommend to use FlashForge in the future(I know that you already solved the problem, but still), the slicer program that I use as well. Blender is not very good for tasks like slicing, as it is rather for creating the actual models you would like to print. Programs like FlashForge provide you with a kind of preview of the model, which is better for slicing as you can see the expected result. &#xA;Another good thing about FlashForge is that you can push models you created with Blender down in the Z-axis and then slice it off at Z=0 , so you can just use your old model without having to change/modify anything about it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, as you didn't specify on what printer you are using, I couldn't make sure if FlashForge is compatible with your device. Please send me a comment so that I can come back to this later on, if it is not compatible, there will still probably be a comparable program to FlashForge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please also keep in mind that in order to fit the two prints together to get the model you would like in the first place, you need PLA glue or something like that for assembling the two pieces, as well as a roughened surface to apply it to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope this helps you in the future, Kind regards, Max&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13968" LastActivityDate="2018-12-26T15:41:00.360" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7788" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7786" CreationDate="2018-12-26T15:56:37.807" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've informed myself a bit about this and found out the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;It is good that you state the Name/Website or any Reference about original creator&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;Creative Commons absolutely requires this, even if you don't charge anything for your prints.&#xA;So, whether you are trying selling your print or not, you should still always do this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;You are not allowed to sell your prints&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;Creative Commons License dictates that you are not allowed to commercialize products that are based on any of their sources. This means, even if you are only charging the printing costs, you are not allowed to sell them, as you are profiting of their sources because you did not design the prints yourself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For further information on this, you should probably check out the official page for this, &lt;a href=&quot;https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc-sa/3.0/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc-sa/3.0/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope this helps, Max&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13968" LastActivityDate="2018-12-26T15:56:37.807" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7789" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7786" CreationDate="2018-12-26T16:02:06.107" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am not an attorney, so this isn't legal advice. Like any legal question, you should consult with an actual attorney, who can consider all the gory details.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, it seems like you've got the BY and SA parts covered. &quot;Non-commercial&quot; is more difficult: does a sale that's not for profit count as &quot;commercial&quot;? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Creative Commons site (&lt;a href=&quot;https://creativecommons.org/faq/#does-my-use-violate-the-noncommercial-clause-of-the-licenses&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://creativecommons.org/faq/#does-my-use-violate-the-noncommercial-clause-of-the-licenses&lt;/a&gt;) explains it a bit more, as pasted below. But perhaps the best thing is to just drop an email to the originator and ask. Probably you'll get an email back saying it's fine; and who knows, maybe you'll make a new friend, too. I've been on both ends of exchanges like that, and it's generally worked just fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Does my use violate the NonCommercial clause of the licenses?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;CC's NonCommercial (NC) licenses prohibit uses that are &quot;primarily&#xA;  intended for or directed toward commercial advantage or monetary&#xA;  compensation.&quot; This is intended to capture the intention of the&#xA;  NC-using community without placing detailed restrictions that are&#xA;  either too broad or too narrow. Please note that CC's definition does&#xA;  not turn on the type of user: if you are a nonprofit or charitable&#xA;  organization, your use of an NC-licensed work could still run afoul of&#xA;  the NC restriction, and if you are a for-profit entity, your use of an&#xA;  NC-licensed work does not necessarily mean you have violated the term.&#xA;  Whether a use is commercial will depend on the specifics of the&#xA;  situation and the intentions of the user.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;In CC's experience, it is usually relatively easy to determine whether&#xA;  a use is permitted, and known conflicts are relatively few considering&#xA;  the popularity of the NC licenses. However, there will always be uses&#xA;  that are challenging to categorize as commercial or noncommercial. CC&#xA;  cannot advise you on what is and is not commercial use. If you are&#xA;  unsure, you should either contact the rights holder for clarification,&#xA;  or search for works that permit commercial uses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;CC has a brief guide to interpretation of the NC license that goes&#xA;  into more detail about the meaning of the NC license and some key&#xA;  points to pay attention to. Additionally, in 2008, Creative Commons&#xA;  published results from a survey on meanings of commercial and&#xA;  noncommercial use generally. Note that the results of the study are&#xA;  not intended to serve as CC's official interpretation of what is and&#xA;  is not commercial use under our licenses, and the results should not&#xA;  be relied upon as such.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastActivityDate="2018-12-26T16:02:06.107" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7790" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7786" CreationDate="2018-12-26T16:08:14.687" Score="3" Body="&lt;h1&gt;Preface&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;I am Not a Lawyer, the stack does not give legal advice, consult a licensing lawyer and the maker to check your use is within the licensing agreeming or make a seperate one&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc-sa/3.0/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Read your license&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The license CreativeCommons specifies BY-NC-SA as:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;BY = Attribute. You may share and modifiy it, as long as you &lt;strong&gt;tell who made it&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;NC = &lt;strong&gt;Non Commercial&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;SA = Share Alike. You may &lt;strong&gt;not change the license&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Non Commercial&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Non Commercial clause &lt;a href=&quot;https://creativecommons.org/faq/#does-my-use-violate-the-noncommercial-clause-of-the-licenses&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;explained in the FAQ&lt;/a&gt; says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;CC's NonCommercial (NC) licenses prohibit uses that are &quot;primarily intended for or directed toward commercial advantage or monetary compensation.&quot; [...] Whether a use is commercial will depend on the specifics of the situation and the intentions of the user.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;[...] If you are unsure, you should either contact the rights holder for clarification, or search for works that permit commercial uses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It also provides a &lt;a href=&quot;https://wiki.creativecommons.org/wiki/NonCommercial_interpretation&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;CC-Wiki entry&lt;/a&gt; what NC is meant to be (pretty much the same as the FAQ), and a &lt;a href=&quot;https://wiki.creativecommons.org/wiki/Defining_Noncommercial&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;survey on it&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;What is NC?&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ok, let's look at the NC part of the CC... When is something breaking the NC license? As soon as it is &quot;primarily intended toward monetary gain&quot; it is commercial (short version), and any commercial use is prhibited. What is this? well, let's read &lt;a href=&quot;https://wiki.creativecommons.org/wiki/Defining_Noncommercial&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;the report&lt;/a&gt;...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Specifically excluded from the prohibition against&#xA;  noncommercial use in the NC licenses is the exchange of a CC-licensed work for&#xA;  any other copyrighted work, whether by means of peer-to-peer digital file-sharing&#xA;  or otherwise, provided no monetary compensation is involved.&lt;sup&gt;p.17&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Most&lt;sup&gt;[significantly&gt;50%]&lt;/sup&gt; participants  thought that “noncommercial use” had no&#xA;  legal definition, or were not sure.  Some&lt;sup&gt;[&amp;lt;50%]&lt;/sup&gt; participants believed noncommercial use to be&#xA;  more likely a fair use than not, and some conflated noncommercial use and fair&#xA;  use. Some participants also mentioned personal or private use as being both&#xA;  legally and pragmatically a noncommercial use, though they were not certain of&#xA;  any law defining “personal use.”&lt;sup&gt;p.30&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;When asked to share their understandings of noncommercial use, no participant&#xA;  could provide a definition of noncommercial use that worked for everyone in their&#xA;  particular group, although there was much agreement on elements of many of&#xA;  the definitions. Through discussion, it emerged that creators take a variety of&#xA;  factors into account when determining what constitutes noncommercial use.&#xA;  These factors are often considered on a case-by-case basis[...]&lt;sup&gt;p.30&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;However, participants across communities were able to articulate a list of factors&#xA;  they generally agreed as a group were relevant to creators’ understanding of&#xA;  whether a use of a work is commercial or noncommercial.&lt;sup&gt;p.31&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Qualitative Research Consideration Factors&lt;sup&gt;p.31&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Perceived economic value of the content &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;The status of the user as an individual, an amateur or professional, a for-profit or&#xA;  not-for-profit organization, etc. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Whether the use makes money (and if&#xA;  so, whether revenues are profit or recovery of costs associated with&#xA;  use)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Whether the use generates promotional value for the creator or&#xA;  the user&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Whether the use is personal or private&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Whether the use is&#xA;  for a charitable purpose or other social or public good&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Whether the&#xA;  use is supported by advertising or not&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Whether the content is used in&#xA;  part or in whole&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Whether the use has an impact on the market or is by&#xA;  a competitor&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of particular interest are these paragraphs:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Creators in the groups recognized that they consider some factors more&#xA;  important than others, and they also weigh the factors differently. Some consider&#xA;  certain factors to be “gatekeeping” questions, the answer to which settles the&#xA;  matter. Some creators consider a use commercial if there is any advertising in&#xA;  connection with it, for example. Others consider certain factors to be questions of&#xA;  degree. For example, &lt;strong&gt;some creators consider recovery of costs to distribute a&#xA;  work a noncommercial use, but not if salaries or other overhead are calculated&#xA;  as part of cost recovery&lt;/strong&gt;. Rather than constituting a simple checklist, for many&#xA;  creators the factors exist within a matrix in which the type of use (for example,&#xA;  promotional or advertising use) and the context or community-based nature of&#xA;  the use (for example, charitable use, or use in a public school) are important&#xA;  vectors. In sum, the decision-making process is not clear-cut.&lt;sup&gt;p.32&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;In the quantitative surveys for both Phase 2 (creators) and Phase 3 (users), the&#xA;  first mention of “noncommercial use” appears in an open-ended question asking&#xA;  respondents how they would define the difference between a commercial use&#xA;  and a noncommercial use of a work, in their own words and without consulting&#xA;  other sources.  Creators and users provided an answer in the same ratio –&#xA;  approximately 7 in 10 from each group.&lt;sup&gt;p.49&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A&#xA;  large majority of both creators and users define a commercial use as one in&#xA;  which money is made (73% of creators, 76% of users). [...] Neither group expresses a majority consensus on an&#xA;  understanding of noncommercial use. [...] the most common mention of a&#xA;  noncommercial use by both creators and users is some use by an individual&#xA;  (19% of creators, 33% of users), including personal and private uses.&lt;sup&gt;p.50&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Gatekeeping Factors&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;sup&gt;p.54&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XsbfC.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XsbfC.png&quot; alt=&quot;Figure 10 from the report&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Making Money&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The figure below provides a visual summary of the anchor point exercise&#xA;  measuring responses to uses that make money.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uuTwI.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uuTwI.png&quot; alt=&quot;Figure 13 from the report&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;On the question of making money for cost recovery, creators think covering&#xA;  distribution costs only is slightly more commercial than covering operating costs,&#xA;  or raising money for an endowment fund. Users tend to agree, but overall see&#xA;  these uses as rather more commercial than creators.&lt;sup&gt;p.60&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Conclusion&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Contakt the maker that designed the part what is OK with them&lt;/strong&gt;. But be warned: The broad idea the report gives is that around 3 of 4 of the makers and 4 of 5 users deem a &quot;For Profit-Company selling [a thing] to cover distribution costs&quot; as breaking the NC clause, as they deem it &lt;em&gt;commercial use&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastActivityDate="2018-12-26T16:08:14.687" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7791" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7784" CreationDate="2018-12-26T18:41:46.750" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;So basically you just replaced everything except for the LCD (the LCD testing is described a little further). If the LCD is not working then, this could imply that either &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;your LCD is broken&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;, or &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;one of the new parts is not functioning&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; as expected, or you have &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;not connected things correctly&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are you sure the firmware flash went okay? You could test the Arduino Mega 2560 by connecting it over USB to e.g. Pronterface, you do not need the LCD for testing the Arduino Mega and the RAMPS.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The LCD could be tested separately by creating a sketch in Arduino IDE and connect the correct pins of the LCD cable to some pins of an Arduino device, e.g. load the the U8Glib example sketch &quot;GraphicsTest&quot; and add the following constructor:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&#xA;U8GLIB_ST7920_128X64_1X u8g(6, 5, 4);  // SPI Com: SCK = en = 6, MOSI = rw = 5, CS = di = 4&#xA;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This implies that you need to attach the correct pins on the Arduino (in my case to digital pins 6, 5 and 4 for respectively SCK, MOSI and CS to the respective EXP1 pins 5, 3 and 4):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gmf0D.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gmf0D.png&quot; alt=&quot;EXP1 wiring for Arduino Uno&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HzZD6.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HzZD6.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Jumper cable wiring full graphical display for testing purposes&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that you see 5 pins attached, as the LCD needs to be powered (pin 10 on the EXP1 header) and grounded (pin 9 on the EXP1 header).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/z5nEx.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/z5nEx.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;RepRapDiscount Full Graphic Smart Controller connected to Arduino Uno clone running U8GLIB &amp;quot;GraphicsTest&amp;quot;&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wired this on an Arduino Uno clone and confirmed that 2 of the spare RepRapDiscount Full Graphic Smart Controller clones showed the test program.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;PS, this is a simple wiring of the LCD, it displays the test in fade blue-ish, so not the bright colored white pixels, but that is normal!&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-12-28T13:42:13.037" LastActivityDate="2018-12-28T13:42:13.037" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7792" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7781" CreationDate="2018-12-26T21:26:26.557" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The warping you see is caused by uneven cooling of the part as it's printed: the printbed keeps the bottom warm, while the middle cools, and the top is still warm from printing.  The fix for this is to place the printer in an enclosure to prevent drafts and raise the air temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;People have used all sorts of things as printer enclosures: everything from foil-lined cardboard boxes heated by the printbed, to fancy metal-and-glass constructions with active temperature control. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="48" LastActivityDate="2018-12-26T21:26:26.557" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7794" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6221" CreationDate="2018-12-27T03:43:40.807" Score="-3" Body="&lt;p&gt;What Cura version do you have?&#xA;Cura only works with the Anet A8 via USB on versions 2.3 and lower according to this &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/groups/anet-a8-prusa-i3/forums/general/topic:12212&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;page&lt;/a&gt;. The page is from thingiverse(A 3d printing forum + print files page)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13974" LastEditorUserId="13974" LastEditDate="2018-12-27T17:30:10.640" LastActivityDate="2018-12-27T17:30:10.640" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7796" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7797" CreationDate="2018-12-27T17:16:34.997" Score="4" ViewCount="468" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently downloaded Magicavoxel to give this voxel thing a try, and I was curious if there was a way to turn the voxel files into a file for printing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Magicavoxel doesn't seem to offer a way to export the project as STL.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12917" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2018-12-30T14:44:24.463" LastActivityDate="2018-12-30T14:44:24.463" Title="How to print a voxel object?" Tags="|3d-design|software|file-formats|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7797" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7796" CreationDate="2018-12-27T18:51:10.767" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Magicavoxel supports export as &lt;code&gt;.obj&lt;/code&gt;, natively or with the right &lt;a href=&quot;https://gist.github.com/shivshank/34ffc56283273e1e904e8dc50491a7a6&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;plugin&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While &lt;code&gt;.stl&lt;/code&gt; is the standard for 3d-printing exchanges, as it contains a &quot;1-unit&quot; length,(typically that corresponds to 1 mm), &lt;code&gt;.obj&lt;/code&gt; is also accepted by most slicers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To get to MagicaVoxel's native export, look in the lower right corner, click export and see this pop up:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/f7bMf.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/f7bMf.png&quot; alt=&quot;Export menu&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Press the top-left &lt;code&gt;OBJ&lt;/code&gt; option and you get a save position window where you can store it. Then open it with your slicer and choose a scale - most &lt;code&gt;.obj&lt;/code&gt; files do not contain a scale as the format does not contain a unit measure by default like &lt;code&gt;.stl&lt;/code&gt; and has to be given one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastActivityDate="2018-12-27T18:51:10.767" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7800" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-12-28T16:52:42.293" Score="0" ViewCount="237" Body="&lt;p&gt;I started a print on my Monoprice Select v2 and let it run.&#xA;I'm printing with Dikale PLA at 200&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C extruder and 60&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C build plate temperatures. My initial layer speed is 30mm/s then 60mm/s after that. &#xA;Although the Monoprice comes with an aluminum build plate, I put on a &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B07HPXGJVT&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;FYSETC magnetic bed plate&lt;/a&gt; which says it's suitable for PLA printing between 50&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C&amp;nbsp;-&amp;nbsp;80&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I returned home, the print had been lifted off the build plate. I used a brim and even applied magigoo gluestick to help it stick but that didn't do the trick.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also noticed it's charred at one corner. Any idea of what this might be a symptom of?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's what was printed&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2eMLy.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2eMLy.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13712" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-12-10T06:13:35.077" LastActivityDate="2019-12-10T06:13:35.077" Title="My print failed and looks charred" Tags="|print-quality|troubleshooting|monoprice-maker-select|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7801" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2018-12-28T19:12:21.043" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/wiki/RepRapDiscount_Full_Graphic_Smart_Controller&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;RepRapDiscount Full Graphic Smart Controller&lt;/a&gt; is a full graphic Smart Controller for the 3D printer containing an SD-Card reader, a rotary encoder and a 128 x 64 dot matrix LCD display (and a reset button and a beeper). You can easy connect it to your printer board using two 10 pins connectors for flat ribbon cables.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-12-28T19:12:21.043" LastActivityDate="2018-12-28T19:12:21.043" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7802" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2018-12-28T19:12:21.043" Score="0" Body="For questions about the interface between the user and the firmware using a 128 x 64 LCD display and a rotary dial button." OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-12-28T19:12:21.043" LastActivityDate="2018-12-28T19:12:21.043" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7803" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7776" CreationDate="2018-12-28T21:43:09.540" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found the answer with the help and inspiration of other people above. Their words reminded me that I could check Cura too, to see if it had the problem. Cura v 3.5.0 did not have the problem. The Qidi slicer v5.0.7 (based on Cura 3.3) correctly generated a back wall if the cutout was 6 mm or larger. At 5 mm, the Qidi/Cura slicer did not generate a back wall. I entered a ticket with Qidi about the problem. I expect the problem will be resolved in their next version. Thank you to everyone for your help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12981" LastActivityDate="2018-12-28T21:43:09.540" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7804" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7808" CreationDate="2018-12-28T22:15:47.987" Score="0" ViewCount="812" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm using Simplify3d and a DIY 3D printer. The printer works fine and I've printed very nice objects with very smooth and beautiful surfaces BUT they are twice as tall as they should be! It is like they're scaled double in Z axis! I've checked everything, I changed steps/mm from 4000 to 2000 but it ruined the smooth surface. changing layer height just makes smoother surface and doesn't solve the problem. What am I missing in the settings?&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Cs6KO.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Cs6KO.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;on the left is printed after changing step/mm from 4000 to 2000 (almost correct height) and on the right is printed with 4000 step/mm twice as tall! &quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13700" LastEditorUserId="13700" LastEditDate="2018-12-29T04:14:36.747" LastActivityDate="2018-12-29T04:14:36.747" Title="Calibration of Z axis in Simplify 3D" Tags="|diy-3d-printer|calibration|z-axis|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7805" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-12-28T22:55:23.963" Score="4" ViewCount="586" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am a physics graduate student and I want to create some 3D models for my crystal samples. We have an X-ray diffractometer in our lab. It comes with a goniometer inside it, so basically I can take as many photos as needed from any angles. (I have included a gif animation made of 10 photos taken by the machine as an example below) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HHvM8.gif&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HHvM8.gif&quot; alt=&quot;a gif animation made of ten photos taken by the machine&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My problem is, given these 2D photos, am I able to construct 3D models for my crystals in AutoCAD or similar software so that I can determine angles, edge lengths and volume more precisely. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am new to 3D printing section. I just thought maybe someone here has encountered with a similar problem. It would be very helpful if anyone could tell me any Github codes, MATLAB scripts, Mathematica scripts or software that can finish this kind of job. I can try to figure it out myself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13996" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-12-28T23:51:13.987" LastActivityDate="2019-01-08T21:07:39.797" Title="How can I get a 3D model from a bunch of 2D photos?" Tags="|3d-models|graphics|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7806" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7805" CreationDate="2018-12-28T23:44:13.013" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;YES, it is possible to make a model from several shots, if you know the angle of rotation between the pictures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;most CAD programs allow to insert a picture, for example as backdrop or to trace it. We are interested in the later use:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We insert the picture, trace it in the picture's layer, then insert the next picture, rotated around the axis of rotation of the picture, and trace that. This we repeat again and again. The resulting cloud of outlines approximates the photographed body to a good degree.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a big caveat though: all photos must be in the same scale and distance, the rotation of the object has to be around one axis of the item itself (no wobble) and the rotation between the pictures has to be known quite exact. This principle is pretty much used by raster scanning by the way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With a very hard contrast between the crystal and the backdrop, software might be able to automate the tracing process (for example use a white background and a black crystal and make sure no reflection hits the camera).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Example using Fusion360&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's assume I have a perfect crystal like this octahedron with two cut tips&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7t0op.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7t0op.png&quot; alt=&quot;Octahedron with upper and lower tip cut&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To model this, we need at least a photo of the XZ and YZ shape (that is, 90° rotation to each other), which look like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pSkDB.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pSkDB.png&quot; alt=&quot;XZ and YZ plane projection&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Xogdh.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Xogdh.png&quot; alt=&quot;The outlines traced&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But that shape would also match a double-cone! So we'll need some intermediary photos, in this case, the 45° shot that lies on the plane of (XY-diagonal)Z Plane&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Bncfa.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Bncfa.png&quot; alt=&quot;Diagonal-Z plane projection&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/w67LL.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/w67LL.png&quot; alt=&quot;The traced outlines&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you see, the more outlines you have, the more detailed the pseudo-body becomes - it is just a gathering of vertices and lines yet though! But, we can take 3 points and create a construction area on these, then draw the face to merge all points on these faces...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6NsGu.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6NsGu.png&quot; alt=&quot;construction layers&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, we turn these construction faces into modeling faces, then create a too large object and cut out the whole thing out...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/k4XIh.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/k4XIh.png&quot; alt=&quot;Making the modeling faces&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wl5Xb.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wl5Xb.png&quot; alt=&quot;Creating the cutout&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3LukB.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3LukB.png&quot; alt=&quot;Resulting model&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The whole workflow looked like this for 4 pictures (0°, 45°, 90°, 135°)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/U05Ss.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/U05Ss.png&quot; alt=&quot;Workflow&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The actual f3D design file is &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.dropbox.com/s/y70bpjnk6d9oyrw/Model%20v0.f3d?dl=0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:29:41.667" LastActivityDate="2018-12-29T13:47:56.897" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7808" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7804" CreationDate="2018-12-29T00:08:34.860" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The steps per mm in firmware is the link to the hardware configuration/setup. Reducing by half must reduce Z advance by half. If your prints are twice as tall, you must have serious under-extrusion problems as when the printer is laying down molten filament for e.g. a 0.2 mm layer, in effect this is a 0.4 mm layer. If this is not the case, you should also &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6483/how-do-i-calibrate-the-extruder-of-my-printer&quot;&gt;calibrate the extruder&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please re-calibrate your machine Z axis in firmware (most firmwares allow command &lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#M92:_Set_axis_steps_per_unit&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;code&gt;M92&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/a&gt; to set the steps per mm), not in Simplify3d, and then the extruder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-12-29T00:22:55.483" LastActivityDate="2018-12-29T00:22:55.483" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7811" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-12-29T17:15:59.193" Score="3" ViewCount="1180" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I am trying to fix a custom built 3D printer for my institute and am running into a problem I can't wrap my head around.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the limit switches for Y-axis and Z-Axis work just fine, but the X-Axis does not. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All three switches are Makerbot (3-pin), and all three light up the LED when they get pressed. However the X-axis does not get recognized by Marlin. When I diagnose with &lt;code&gt;M119&lt;/code&gt; command it does not show as triggered even though the LED is on. All the other ones do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All three switches are connected to min (X-min, Y-min, and Z-min).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could this be a firmware problem? Or perhaps my RAMPS 1.4 has burned out the X-axis signaling? (I doubt this because the LED on the switch still turns on).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let me know if you need any more info to diagnose the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;P.S. I have also replaced the X-Axis limit switch with a brand new one and the same result happens: LED turns on upon activation but it doesn't get recognized by the machine.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14007" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-09-26T06:03:28.223" LastActivityDate="2021-03-19T09:04:30.447" Title="Limit Switch problems on RAMPS 1.4 and custom built 3D Printer running Marlin 1.1.0-rc6" Tags="|marlin|ramps-1.4|troubleshooting|endstop|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7812" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-12-29T19:33:30.033" Score="7" ViewCount="1695" Body="&lt;p&gt;Could you use a 3D printer to make a 3D printer's parts? What is the most of a 3D printer that can be made this way? Could parts that break be replaced this way?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9374" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2019-01-12T20:42:10.370" LastActivityDate="2019-01-12T20:42:10.370" Title="Can a 3D printer make a 3D printer?" Tags="|desktop-printer|replacement-parts|replicating-printers|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7813" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-12-29T19:47:59.220" Score="6" ViewCount="7718" Body="&lt;p&gt;So, the wife got me a Creality Ender-3 Pro 3d Printer for Christmas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assembly was easy, axis movements are all solid... when I go to print the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2879047&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;test-dog.gcode&lt;/a&gt; file provided with the machine, it comes out looking... flat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not kind of flat. TOTALLY flat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Z-Axis motor works - I can move it with the machine's control panel - and it moves on it's own for repositioning of the head for printing purposes, but it doesn't seem to be moving 'up' for each new layer.  Layer height is set for 0.1&amp;nbsp;mm, nozzle is .4&amp;nbsp;mm. No settings changed in the G-code, or on the machine (and I did a &quot;reset to failsafe&quot; before attempting to print anything).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm relatively new to additive manufacturing, can someone help out here?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CQRlC.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CQRlC.png&quot; alt=&quot;Photo of the test print&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14008" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2018-12-30T10:45:04.693" LastActivityDate="2021-08-27T02:25:21.713" Title="Z-Axis does not appear to be working on Ender-3 Pro" Tags="|print-quality|z-axis|creality-ender-3|troubleshooting|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7814" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7812" CreationDate="2018-12-29T20:34:04.337" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, you can print most of the parts (electronics, linear guide rails, ball bearings and nuts and bolts, etc cannot be printed). Actually this was exactly the purpose of &lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/wiki/RepRap&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;RepRap.org&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;RepRap is humanity's first general-purpose self-replicating&#xA;  manufacturing machine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Since many parts of RepRap are made from plastic and RepRap prints&#xA;  those parts, RepRap self-replicates by making a kit of itself - a kit&#xA;  that anyone can assemble given time and materials.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There have been attempts in the past to even replicate the frames of printers (e.g. &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/amp/s/www.digitaltrends.com/cool-tech/dollo-3d-printer-kickstarter/amp/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Dollo 3D&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&amp;amp;source=web&amp;amp;rct=j&amp;amp;url=%23&amp;amp;ved=2ahUKEwiDrK3Ew8nfAhWBEVAKHcT8CKYQwqsBMAN6BAgLEAU&amp;amp;usg=AOvVaw0VTJzWxrN8ZFOD4xbU2nov&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Snappy&lt;/a&gt;, but such designs are not very successful, printed frames are more flexible than metal frames.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sub&gt;&lt;em&gt;I have built 2 custom printers myself using other printers to print parts and printed all printer parts for several others. It is possible to print &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2476782&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;your own linear bearings from POM&lt;/a&gt;, I prefer these over the noisy metal bearings.&lt;/em&gt;&#xA;&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-12-31T07:35:44.407" LastActivityDate="2018-12-31T07:35:44.407" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7815" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7811" CreationDate="2018-12-29T21:18:21.293" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;To rule out problem with the switches itself, you can change the Z-min and swap it with the Y- or Z-min. Once you found out that you get the same issues you know that your X endstop module is working (unless they both are faulty, but the odds are small for that), but the signal change is not registered by the board. This could be a faulty port/pin of the X-min port / attached microprocessor pin. What you could do to try to diagnose that is using the X-max header on the board. In order to use that header for X-min, you need to change some code in &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/blob/1.1.x/Marlin/pins_RAMPS.h&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;pins_RAMPS.h&lt;/a&gt;, change:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&#xA;//&#xA;// Limit Switches&#xA;//&#xA;#define X_MIN_PIN           3&#xA;#ifndef X_MAX_PIN&#xA;  #define X_MAX_PIN         2&#xA;#endif&#xA;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;to:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&#xA;//&#xA;// Limit Switches&#xA;//&#xA;#define X_MIN_PIN           2&#xA;#ifndef X_MAX_PIN&#xA;  #define X_MAX_PIN         3&#xA;#endif&#xA;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Recompile and upload. Please use the latest sources, 1.1.9, 1.1.0 is very old.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-02-23T07:45:38.727" LastActivityDate="2020-02-23T07:45:38.727" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7817" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7745" CreationDate="2018-12-29T22:18:02.587" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The oozing is due to hot-end getting hot before the bed leveling procedure: if you move the hot-end warm up command &lt;strong&gt;after&lt;/strong&gt; the &lt;code&gt;G29&lt;/code&gt; line you avoid that oozing&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;; Ender 3 Custom Start G-code&#xA;M104 S{material_print_temperature_layer_0} ; Set Extruder temperature&#xA;M140 S{material_bed_temperature_layer_0} ; Set Heat Bed temperature&#xA;G28 ; Home all axes&#xA;G29 ; BLTOUCH Mesh Generation&#xA;M190 S{material_bed_temperature_layer_0} ; Wait for Heat Bed temperature&#xA;M109 S{material_print_temperature_layer_0} ; Wait for Extruder temperature&#xA;G1 F1800 E-3 ; Retract filament 3 mm to prevent oozing&#xA;G92 E0 ; Reset Extruder&#xA;G1 Z5.0 F3000 ; Move Z Axis up little to prevent scratching of Heat Bed&#xA;G1 X0.1 Y20 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move to start position&#xA;G1 X0.1 Y200.0 Z0.3 F1500.0 E15 ; Draw the first line&#xA;G1 X0.4 Y200.0 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move to side a little&#xA;G1 X0.4 Y20 Z0.3 F1500.0 E30 ; Draw the second line&#xA;G92 E0 ; Reset Extruder&#xA;G1 Z5.0 F3000 ; Move Z Axis up little to prevent scratching of Heat Bed&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The above code will activate the heating elements but starts homing and leveling procedure without waiting for the elements to get up to temperature. Only after the bed leveling is finished the printer will pause and wait for the heating elements reach the desired temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This will prevent oozing on a cold start, but you will still be affected if you start a print right after another print, when the hot-end is still close to  melting temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you prefer to avoid that condition you might want to also move the &lt;code&gt;M104&lt;/code&gt; and &lt;code&gt;M140&lt;/code&gt; commands after the &lt;code&gt;G29&lt;/code&gt; bed leveling command.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13989" LastEditorUserId="13989" LastEditDate="2018-12-30T22:12:07.053" LastActivityDate="2018-12-30T22:12:07.053" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7818" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7824" CreationDate="2018-12-29T23:09:59.503" Score="4" ViewCount="2011" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently got a Dremel 3D20, and I understand it only takes PLA filament according to the Dremel site.  However, I was wondering if anyone has successfully used TPU filament or knows it will work fine.  I’m more than happy to use other software to change the temperature, I just don’t want to gunk up or otherwise ruin my printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14013" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-12-30T00:28:07.873" LastActivityDate="2018-12-30T14:04:03.453" Title="TPU Filament in Dremel 3D20?" Tags="|tpu|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7819" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7811" CreationDate="2018-12-30T01:34:31.783" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Considering you're having issues with the board, and the limit switches appear to be registering, but the board isn't doing anything about it, a first good step would be to update the firmware to 1.1.9 as @0scar states. If the update in the firmware doesn't do the trick, then move on to doing as he suggests with changing the Xmax/min stuff around. This just seems like a good first logical step to getting it fixed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11242" LastActivityDate="2018-12-30T01:34:31.783" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7820" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7812" CreationDate="2018-12-30T01:43:32.737" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, printers can print printer parts. With the right design, all non-metal/non-electronic parts can be printed on an FDM printer, and a laser-sintering based printer (SLS/DMLS) can even produce metal parts, as long as they fit the printbed. The fact, that a printer can create all the fastenings to build a new printer with just the electronics and linger extrusions/rods/rails is actually the core of the &lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/wiki/RepRap&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;RepRap&lt;/a&gt; philosophy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some early printers, like the Mendel, did use just materials from home depot and printed joiners together with the electronics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a result, all joiners can be printed as replacements or improvements. There is a second limit though: Very small printers might not be able to print parts of the size needed to replicate the parts that they are made from. A common 200x200x200 mm printer can replicate almost all fasteners that comprise it, but the frame will have to be made from sheets of metal, wood, extrusions or rods and the movement system will need rails, rods or extrusions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2019-01-12T19:23:51.077" LastActivityDate="2019-01-12T19:23:51.077" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7822" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7800" CreationDate="2018-12-30T02:32:40.623" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You have more than one problem going on. As for the print lifting up, that could be for a multitude of reasons. Clearly better bed adhesion is required. It also appears the printer stopped printing at one layer. Now for the charred part, I think it could've been caused by the nozzle staying in one area for too long (possibly when the printer stopped printing.). This causes the plastic touching the nozzle to overheat and burn up. The charred section can usually be pulled off pretty easily. However, since it definitely appears you have more than one issue here you should pursue some research (perhaps other questions on the site) on the matter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9084" LastActivityDate="2018-12-30T02:32:40.623" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7823" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7825" CreationDate="2018-12-30T06:28:21.413" Score="2" ViewCount="485" Body="&lt;p&gt;My attempted prints on my Creative Ender3 of model:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2QflT.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2QflT.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;This is the spinning top totem from the movie Inception.&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:23686&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:23686&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The print uses support structures (generated by Ultimaker Cura) failed in the same location twice. It is printed in PLA (1.75&amp;nbsp;mm) first print at 200&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C, second print at 196&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4TQUp.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4TQUp.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Failed print 1&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FXSM2.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FXSM2.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Failed print 2&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13733" LastEditorUserId="13733" LastEditDate="2018-12-31T01:46:56.763" LastActivityDate="2018-12-31T01:46:56.763" Title="Basic Spinning Top Prints Fail in Same Location" Tags="|creality-ender-3|troubleshooting|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7824" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7818" CreationDate="2018-12-30T09:59:15.433" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;TPU wants in general two things of your printer:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A Printing Temperature of (over many makers) 195-230 °C&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A Direct Drive (extruder on the printhead)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Bowden extruders are not ideal for printing flexible filaments such as NinjaFlex due to the excessive&#xA;  distance between the stepper motor and the extruder head. However, some users have generated&#xA;  successful prints using reduced speeds.&lt;sup&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fennerdrives.com/FetchFile.ashx?id=a272e483-39da-48c2-b16a-b5d899189867&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;ninjaflex handout&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check the temperature you can reach, and you are lucky, as some of the smaller Dremels use Bowden but the 3d20 is apparently direct drive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to try to run a Bowden with flexible filaments, dial down speed down really low (20-30 mm/s at most) and pray.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2018-12-30T14:03:24.373" LastActivityDate="2018-12-30T14:03:24.373" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7825" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7823" CreationDate="2018-12-30T10:24:23.207" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;To me, it looks like your G-code induces an incomplete layer of support on the still standing piece, which later down leads to the print failing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Re-slice the whole thing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a matter of fact, I would cut the model in its widest place and print both with the large face flat on the surface and glue the two pieces together after printing. That way I can achieve:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;no need for support material&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;maximum adhesion&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;no surface problems on the transition from the support to the print&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastActivityDate="2018-12-30T10:24:23.207" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7826" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7818" CreationDate="2018-12-30T10:48:18.880" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've never used a Dremel printer, thus I cannot guarantee that my solution will work fine, but you might want to give a try to the &lt;a href=&quot;https://ultimaker.com/en/products/ultimaker-cura-software&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Ultimaker Cura&lt;/a&gt; slicer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ultimaker printers have Bowden tubes, like the Dremel, unless I am mistaken, and I've been able to successfully print TPU on my Ultimaker 3 Extended printer. I also know that many Ultimaker users have printed using Ninjaflex without much problems on their Ultimaker machines, both old and new.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ultimaker Cura comes with pre-programmed settings for TPU95, which is the Ultimaker brand of TPU, then I guess you'll have to fiddle a bit with settings to find what works best with your Dremel. Take a look around &lt;a href=&quot;https://community.ultimaker.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Ultimaker's forums&lt;/a&gt;, many users have other printers beyond their Ultimaker printers, you might be lucky and find some useful information. The 'search' feature of the forum works quite nicely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Quick summary of the settings for TPU95A in Ultimaker Cura for a 2.85 mm Bowden setup:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Layer Height: 0.2mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Printing Temperature: 225°C&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Print Speed: 25 mm/s&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cooling Fan Speed: 20%&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on how the Dremel performs and the quality of your TPU, you might want to disable retractions, it's been known to help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12917" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2018-12-30T14:04:03.453" LastActivityDate="2018-12-30T14:04:03.453" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7827" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7813" CreationDate="2018-12-30T10:49:52.753" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Check the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is the lead screw bent? remove it from the assembly and have it roll down a very slightly angled plate - if it rolls at uneven speed, it is bent.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;are the motor perfectly aligned with the brass nut? The lead screw needs to slot into the coupling without any force or need to move it just from gravity alone.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;is the Z-axis nut spin easily? I gave mine a droplet or two of machine oil, motor it up and down the whole length twice. Some residue grease from the factory can bind up the motor.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If all the physical side is known to be OK: re-slice your object, you might have faulty g-code.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2018-12-30T21:53:32.140" LastActivityDate="2018-12-30T21:53:32.140" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7828" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7812" CreationDate="2018-12-30T16:04:49.740" Score="7" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Can a 3D printer make a 3D printer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not without a bunch of other parts&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Could you use a 3D printer to make 3D printers parts?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To some extent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;What is the most of a 3D printer that can be built this way &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically you you can't print the precision mechanical guides, you can't print the electronics, you can't print the parts that need to get hot, you can't print the motors, you can't print the lead-screws or toothed belts. Printing the whole main frame doesn't seem to be very practical either.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Afaict what you are left with is mostly printing the pieces that join all the functional elements of the printer together. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="432" LastActivityDate="2018-12-30T16:04:49.740" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7829" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7813" CreationDate="2018-12-30T21:07:58.350" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It turned out that there's something wrong with the G-code file that came with my printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I downloaded a calibration cube from Thingiverse and printed it - while it wasn't 100%, it did print viable. Now I need to get into details as to quality, and I suspect that too will be a factor for the G-code used in the printer. I'm looking at &quot;Ultimaker Cura&quot; to figure out the changes in G-code based on option changes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14008" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-12-30T21:55:30.623" LastActivityDate="2018-12-30T21:55:30.623" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7830" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2621" CreationDate="2018-12-30T21:57:47.367" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yeah, Yeah... Old topic I know, but still an ongoing topic for new and old hands alike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;&lt;strong&gt;All metal or PTFE lined&lt;/strong&gt;&quot; along with &quot;&lt;strong&gt;Bowden or Direct drive&lt;/strong&gt;&quot; Those are the questions!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a very unusual hobby, quite literally every possible modification, upgrade, printer setting, slicer setting, bed adhesion issue... Basically anything that can be altered at all &lt;strong&gt;IS SUBJECTIVE&lt;/strong&gt; to the individual! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Forget printer brand, filament brand, model, clone, genuine etc. &#xA;Just what works for one person and gives outstanding prints may not work as well or at all for someone else with an identical setup.&#xA;There are just too many variables - Ambient temperatures, air pressure, humidity, geographic location, age of filament before you buy it, shipping and import method of filament, batch to batch variation of filament &amp;amp; the list goes on an on!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Compared with the laundry list of setup and printing problems to choose from these questions are surprisingly easy to answer!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Firstly: &lt;strong&gt;Bowden or Direct drive extruder.&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A. Personal preference of the builder/user.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;B. Suitability for your majority printing work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not starting an argument about which is better because &lt;strong&gt;neither one is&lt;/strong&gt;! They both have advantages and disadvantages. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bowden = faster overall printing speed before undesirable aberrations start to become noticeable&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Direct = Slower printing speeds, but more suitable for flexible materials and easier/faster setup especially for newbies.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally I use a Bowden setup, mostly because I need good quality large format prints in the shortest time possible, i occasionally use flex filament but not often enough for a direct drive printer to be worthwhile investment (&lt;em&gt;and with a little tweaking can still get very good results!&lt;/em&gt;) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Secondly: &lt;strong&gt;PTFE lined or all metal&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This comes down to one question alone! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do you intend printing &lt;strong&gt;exclusively&lt;/strong&gt; with materials that require hotend temps above 250&amp;nbsp;°C?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the answer is &quot;No&quot; do not waste your money on an all metal hotend!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Buy a couple of good quality &lt;a href=&quot;https://store.micro-swiss.com/collections/plated-brass-wear-resistant-nozzles&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;plated brass nozzles&lt;/a&gt; and high quality Bowden tubing or heat break liner (and still have change for lunch and a pint or two on your way back from the shop)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Simply because getting them to work properly for lower temperature printing is nothing short of an absolute &quot;pain in the proverbial&quot;! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On more than one occasion I have been sucked into the hype that all metal is an &quot;upgrade&quot; from PTFE and quite simply it just isn't!&#xA;Most of the companies that market them as an all round upgrade want only one thing your hard earned £££! So instead of marketing them as the correct hotend for high temp printing they market them as a general upgrade part. Which isn't the case!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now if you think that you may want to try out a little ABS or nylon, even an occasional high temperature print here and there then a much better solution is to buy high quality professional PTFE liner such as the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.captubes.com/shop/#!/XS-Series-PTFE-Heat-Break-Liner-for-1-75mm-Filaments/p/101717447/category=23214267&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Capricorn XS series&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For normal printing below 250&amp;nbsp;°C will last 3x or longer than a standard PTFE liner and is also safe to use up to 300&amp;nbsp;°C for short periods and costs just a few £s more than your regular liner!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14031" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2019-03-26T14:28:14.373" LastActivityDate="2019-03-26T14:28:14.373" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7831" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7832" CreationDate="2018-12-31T00:30:06.857" Score="5" ViewCount="23159" Body="&lt;p&gt;Recently got an Anycubic I3 Mega Printer and I've been playing with what it can do, but after a model is done it leaves residue on the build plate behind that is bugging me. Do I NEED to remove it? If so, how? Thanks! (I'm using PLA if that matters)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My Problem: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pupIz.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pupIz.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Residue left on build plate&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14032" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-12-31T06:40:58.083" LastActivityDate="2020-01-02T22:41:28.007" Title="How to remove exess filament from bed after removing model" Tags="|pla|heated-bed|post-processing|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7832" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7831" CreationDate="2018-12-31T04:09:50.020" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should remove it because it can and will affect the quality of future prints. Residue can mix up with new filament and create a ugly of colors and also prevent adhesion in places, thus potentially ruining your next print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You have several solutions to clean up the bed:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Scrape it off: usually works, but you risk chipping the surface if you're not careful or if you stumble upon a bit of residue that is stubborn and you need to apply strength to get rid of it. I think a scraper is included with the printer.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sponge and soap: Since the bed cannot be removed, as far as I can tell, you'll need to make sure that the sponge isn't dripping or put towel paper around to avoid damaging the components below, including the heating unit. Rub it gently on the residue until it soften and detaches. It might take a bit to work.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.kaercher.com/fr/home-garden/produits-de-nettoyage-et-d-entretien/reinigungs-pflegemittel/batterie-pour-nettoyeur-de-vitres/nettoyant-vitres/nettoyant-vitres-concentre-62953020.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Yellow glass cleaner from Karcher&lt;/a&gt;: my favourite, the one I use on my printer and it never failed me. Spray it on a cloth or something, and rub it on the bed until the residue softens and detaches. It might take a bit to work, but you don't run the risk of dripping liquid on any component, and it works way better than soap and without the risk of chipping the bed like when you use a scraper.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12917" LastActivityDate="2018-12-31T04:09:50.020" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7833" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7745" CreationDate="2018-12-31T06:14:02.680" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have noticed that leveling with a heated nozzle and bed is different than leveling cold. If you want to level with a hot plate and nozzle, another more simple solution is to retract more filament at the finishing of a print, you could add an increased retraction of filament in the &quot;end G-code&quot; script of your slicer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As an example, an &quot;end G-code&quot; script  could look like:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&#xA;M140 S0       ;heated bed heater off&#xA;M104 S0       ;extruder heater off&#xA;G92 E0 ; set extruder value back to 0&#xA;G1 E-5 F300 ;retract 5 mm filament speed 300&#xA;G1 X0 Y210  ; park the machine&#xA;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Be sure to update the &quot;start G-code&quot; to counteract this retraction in your additional priming section of the nozzle. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&#xA;...&#xA;; Prime the nozzle&#xA;G92 E0 ; set extruder value back to 0&#xA;G1 E5 F300 ; extract 5 mm filament at speed 300&#xA;; additionally, extract more at elevated height and wipe the nozzle...&#xA;...&#xA;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively, but less accurate (as it does not compensate for layer height) is to have a minimum length of your skirt (this will work if you always use the same first layer height, just calculate how many millimeters you require for the skirt to compensate the retracted volume, you could add some extra distance to the skirt).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2018-12-31T06:49:26.633" LastActivityDate="2018-12-31T06:49:26.633" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7834" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5686" CreationDate="2018-12-31T18:04:48.300" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an X5S and quite frankly, I never got it print properly because of these persistent issues. Thank you for the most excellent comments and suggestions. Lots to investigate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I added an anycubic glass table but that takes longer to heat up. But i am unable to get adhesion on the first layers and the clicking kicks in shortly thereafter. I wonder if this thermal latency might imply a colder bed on first layers. I have tweaked the leveling so many times it is not funny. This is pointing to friction in the Bowden delivery system and the extruder itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I got an E3D that I must adapt. Too bad i cannot print those parts!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have noted also a great variety of results from different printer filaments brands as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14038" LastActivityDate="2018-12-31T18:04:48.300" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7835" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-12-31T18:52:53.760" Score="4" ViewCount="114" Body="&lt;p&gt;Suppose I have an image like this below that I want to print in 3D. What would be the best format to convert it in?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/by9JH.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/by9JH.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;2D image for 3D printing&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14039" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-01-01T15:20:10.837" LastActivityDate="2019-01-01T15:20:10.837" Title="I want to print an image of a network in 3D — what's the best way to convert it?" Tags="|3d-models|2d|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7836" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-12-31T20:52:16.257" Score="3" ViewCount="3169" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a few issues with the blue tape, which I'm trying out for the first time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The tape seems to warp, bubble and lift from the aluminum plate when it heats and cools and during printing.&#xA;I put some clips on it, but not sure if this is standard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It also seems the print is lifting off the tape itself (bottom left corner). I applied some magigoo glue to it. Maybe I shouldn't have done that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I feel like this print isn't going to make it...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iM8A2.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iM8A2.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Print and tape adhesion problems&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm printing with a Monoprice Select V2, with AmazonBasics ABS with 100&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C bed and 250&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C extruder temperature, at 15&amp;nbsp;mm/s initial layer speed and 60&amp;nbsp;mm/s print speed sliced with Ultimaker Cura.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13712" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-12-10T06:13:16.473" LastActivityDate="2022-02-17T21:24:35.590" Title="What do you use to keep your blue tape from lifting?" Tags="|adhesion|build-plate|monoprice-maker-select|masking-tape|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7837" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7836" CreationDate="2018-12-31T21:40:02.720" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;My Dad uses prittstick on the bed before the print and the bed keeps the prittstick just abbout the right temp for it to stick.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/23Uem.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/23Uem.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Me Gluing his print bed (No Need FOr tape)&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14041" LastActivityDate="2018-12-31T21:40:02.720" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7838" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7836" CreationDate="2018-12-31T21:46:27.987" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your printer has a build-tac clone surface. Blue tape does not stick well to that: you would get better results printing directly to the Build-Tac clone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Painter's tape I use only on a flat surface: it works well directly on glass, aluminium or an unheated fiberglass surface, but you absolutely need to include its thickness in the leveling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2020-09-09T09:56:33.620" LastActivityDate="2020-09-09T09:56:33.620" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7839" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7843" CreationDate="2018-12-31T23:30:24.843" Score="6" ViewCount="2194" Body="&lt;p&gt;What kind of primer should I be using for my PLA prints?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to be able to sand the object after applying the primer for a smooth finish before painting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would something like this work?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.bunnings.com.au/dulux-duramax-325g-plastic-primer-spray-paint_p1400720&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.bunnings.com.au/dulux-duramax-325g-plastic-primer-spray-paint_p1400720&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14043" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2019-01-02T14:52:02.460" LastActivityDate="2019-09-12T08:33:56.123" Title="Sandable primer suitable for PLA?" Tags="|pla|post-processing|smoothing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7840" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7836" CreationDate="2019-01-01T00:22:04.283" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The tape probably would stick better to the Aluminum bed than the BuildTak clone sheet you have as it would have had more surface area to bond to. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I found that works best is to print on the bare aluminum bed using a PVA based spray, this can be hairspray or a specific 3D printer product like 3DLAC, or just glue stick. I ditched tape after day one (for reasons you mention) and solely print on aluminium or on glass without a problem, sometimes it sticks too well and the bed needs to cool down to room temperature before I can remove the print. This has been described as an &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/6861/5740&quot;&gt;answer&lt;/a&gt; to: &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/3710/should-you-use-hairspray-on-a-metal-bed-3d-printer&quot;&gt;Should you use hairspray on a metal bed 3D printer?&#xA;&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Removing the BuildTak clone sheet may be quite laborious if a very sticky adhesive is used (it took me a long time and lots of solvents to remove the goo/glue from a PEI sheet I used once) it is better to try and print on the BuildTak sheet, maybe use PVA based (hair)spray or glue stick.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Furthermore, ABS is more difficult to print than PLA or PETG. Printing ABS is difficult because of the relative large shrinkage when the filament cools. It therefore requires careful heat management (no part cooling, no draft, enclosure, etc.). This filament needs a good surface to build on and requires brims, &quot;mouse ears&quot;, adhesive spray or glue to get the first layer to stick and not curl up. Tape at temperatures of 100&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C will become soft and loose its power to stick. Kapton tape might work better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-01-02T23:29:37.723" LastActivityDate="2019-01-02T23:29:37.723" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7841" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7835" CreationDate="2019-01-01T01:55:29.820" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately, with only a .PNG or other file format that is traditionally two dimensional, you are missing some critical information. Unless your objective is to print something &quot;flat with thickness,&quot; you can't create a 3D model. If your objective is to print something flat with thickness, even a program such as Inkscape with the Path to OpenSCAD extension will accomplish your goal. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I believe that Tinkercad will import images and allow you to extrude them to create the thickness aspect. Another program which supports such activity is Fusion360 (free for hobbyists) which would convert your drawing to a sketch. You'd have to add some width to the lines in order to extrude them in any program you select. It will also be necessary to trace the drawing to convert it to a vector file type. Inkscape excels in this task.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lastly, you can arbitrarily add a third dimension to the diagram by importing it with SolveSpace. It is another free program which allows one to import a DXF file. Note that DXF is a vector file not raster, excluding your existing PNG format. It might be easier to use Inkscape to create the vector file, add width to the lines, then save it in DXF form and load it to SolveSpace. At that point, it becomes extremely challenging due to the complexity of the drawing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Perhaps a hint or two (image, sketch, drawing) of your final objective?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastActivityDate="2019-01-01T01:55:29.820" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7842" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-01-01T04:15:05.980" Score="4" ViewCount="6041" Body="&lt;p&gt;It feels like my print is almost there, I spent a long time fine tuning the calibration with a fantastic set of G-code files from &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_EfWVUJjBdA&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Chuck Hellebuyck&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am using an Ender 3, on which I have modified the heatbed to carry a glass sheet, otherwise factory standard. The prints are done on the bare glass. When I printed a window some 14 feet (~4.5 meters) away was open to the cold New York winter. The cooling fan on the Ender 3 is mounted on the right side of the hotend and uses a simple declector, it can be seen in picture 2.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, my print is not perfect yet. I'm using 1.75 &amp;nbsp;mm PLA at a temperature of 200&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C for the 0.4 mm nozzle and a bed temperature of 60 °C. Out of the 4 corners, 3 printed perfectly, the back-left one did lift.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What do I need to do to fix the bed adhesion issue?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uLYsM.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uLYsM.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;One failing corner of the print&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NA5I2.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NA5I2.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Good sides and hotend on the gantry above&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eCuVz.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eCuVz.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Another angle of bad side&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/k8Ehk.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/k8Ehk.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;top down&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13733" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2019-01-03T09:18:54.467" LastActivityDate="2020-09-09T09:57:45.630" Title="Why is Print Adhesion almost good, but still not right?" Tags="|creality-ender-3|troubleshooting|adhesion|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7843" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7839" CreationDate="2019-01-01T14:09:57.683" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are generally 2 types of operation you might want to do before priming your object:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;smoothing to a point that you are comfy with and &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;roughing pass with very fine grit to give the primer something to stick to&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Smoothing via Sanding &amp;amp; Filler&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To smooth your object you generally have two options: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Only sand down (and possibly vapor-smooth) and account for the lost size in the design phase. &#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Vapor-smoothing can flatten away surface details you might want to preserve, so it might not be an option at all.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;While vapor smoothing is possible with more than just Acetone on ABS, the price tag for those chemicals is usually more expensive by a factor of 20 or more due to the fact that Acetone is pretty much dirt cheap as far as chemicals go - and easily accessible via home depot.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fill up with body filler in areas you want and sand smooth afterward.&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;This is very labor intensive, especially for complex shapes.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Only after you filled up the structure to be somewhat smooth you apply paint primer. In itself, common spray on primers often are not &lt;em&gt;filling&lt;/em&gt; enough to hide away the printing layers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For rough surfaces that need a starting fill, a paste body filler applied with a spatula works best, and for the last pass over a just lightly scratched surface, automotive body filler from a spray can works great. The benefit of spray-can body filler is, that it also acts as a first roughing step, so you don't need to roughen the surface for the primer. If you grab a filler-primer, even skip the primer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Sidenote from experience:&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some filler-primer and lacquer spray cans seem to contain solvents that are able to soften PLA.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Smoothing via Coating&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A random find on &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2951822&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Thingiverse&lt;/a&gt; showed me another way to paint and flatten the surface faster and without sanding, at the cost of details getting smoothed away:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Apply a thin paint coat.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Apply a thin coat of a fast drying, transparent Polyurethane coating onto the &lt;strong&gt;wet&lt;/strong&gt; paint.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Let the combined layers dry with extra air flow to prevent noses.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Repeat as needed.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It works by picking up the wet paint and embedding it into the thicker Polyurethane layer, which dries much smoother than the paint itself, filling up the imperfections and the steps between layers. This process will however also fill up non-masked surface details you might want to preserve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Your product in mind&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The primer you took a look at works on PLA, but it would not smooth out all the dimples. It might work nicely for the PU-Buildup variant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2019-09-12T08:33:56.123" LastActivityDate="2019-09-12T08:33:56.123" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7844" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-01-01T19:49:47.637" Score="0" ViewCount="12149" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does anyone notice that when they upgrade from an MK8&lt;sup&gt;Makerbot(?)&lt;/sup&gt; to a E3D V6 hotend that when using the same settings and bed-leveling/z-distance-setting procedures, that the filament is much more likely to be pulled up and bunch up around the nozzle while printing the first layer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It occurs mostly when printing small details, such as 3&amp;nbsp;mm bolt holes, and not so much when laying down long lines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this due to the shape of the nozzle, which on the V6 is much more flat when compared to the MK8 which is more sharp, or is it due to something else that can be easily fixed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/w5div.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/w5div.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;e3d nozzle&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iuepN.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iuepN.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;mk8 nozzle&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13829" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-09-30T10:26:50.207" LastActivityDate="2023-12-30T02:07:46.067" Title="E3D V6 nozzle vs MK8 nozzle, first layer adhesion" Tags="|filament|nozzle|e3d|makerbot-mk8|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7845" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-01-02T00:48:24.630" Score="9" ViewCount="18020" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought a 32 GB SDHC (Sandisk) I'd like to use for my Monoprice 3D printer.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I have downloaded Partition Wizard and partitioned a 2GB primary partition formatted as FAT and it still does not show any files. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What am I doing wrong?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14052" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-12-10T06:12:18.790" LastActivityDate="2019-12-10T06:12:18.790" Title="How to format an SD card for Monoprice Select Mini V2?" Tags="|sd|microsd|monoprice-select-mini|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7846" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7842" CreationDate="2019-01-02T03:06:03.607" Score="-4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I work with a glass surface on my machine and use a drop of superglue to attach the &#xA;corners after the first layer is complete. The biggest contributors to not sticking are :&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bed not level.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Temperature of filament not hot enough.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;First layer print speed is too fast.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Heated Bed not hot enough to compensate for cold room. Try enclosing print area.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Head is snagging on print edges (no retraction when moving) and ripping print loose.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Print bed surface is not clean. Use acetone or ammonia for cleaning glass. Alcohol leaves an oily residue.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are printing on painters tape, make sure the bed is very clean when you put the tape &#xA;down. Then make sure you rub the tape down well so it doesn't pull off of the print bed &#xA;surface during printing. Then clean the tape surface to get the oil from your hands off of &#xA;the tape. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I use Glass Build Plate Wizard spray for delicate prints and a heated bed. It releases after the print plate cools down. That eliminates the need to chip the print loose. It releases itself after a few minutes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14054" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2019-01-03T16:45:54.117" LastActivityDate="2019-01-03T16:45:54.117" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7847" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-01-02T05:34:23.417" Score="1" ViewCount="1467" Body="&lt;p&gt;I dont want the part cooling fan on during preheat, especially when I'm only heating the bed, it is just unnecessarily loud and serves no purpose at that time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However when I set &lt;code&gt;PREHEAT_1_FAN_SPEED&lt;/code&gt; to 0 it has no effect, the fan still spins at full speed as soon as I preheat either the hotend or the bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So why is this setting not working and how do I fix this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am using the latest version of &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/tree/1.1.x/Marlin&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Marlin&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only one that is defined is the one that I am editing and it is the one that appears on line ~1260 of the stock configuration.h&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#define PREHEAT_1_FAN_SPEED 0 // Value from 0 to 255&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And this is the grep result of searching the entire firmware folder:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dJh5p.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dJh5p.png&quot; alt=&quot;grep results&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13829" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-01-03T22:14:18.233" LastActivityDate="2019-01-03T22:14:18.233" Title="Marlin 1.1.x on Ender 3 changing PREHEAT_1_FAN_SPEED has no effect?" Tags="|marlin|firmware|creality-ender-3|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7849" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7845" CreationDate="2019-01-02T07:37:29.790" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;For an SD card to work with the printer firmware &lt;a href=&quot;https://monopricesupport.kayako.com/article/59-why-is-my-printer-not-reading-my-sd-card&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Monoprice suggests to format the SD card to FAT32&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, the Monoprice Select Mini V2 is not able to read SDHC memory cards, it is advised to use an SD card (smaller than 4&amp;nbsp;GB) instead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to the &lt;a href=&quot;https://monopricesupport.kayako.com/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Monoprice support website&lt;/a&gt;: &lt;a href=&quot;https://monopricesupport.kayako.com/article/59-why-is-my-printer-not-reading-my-sd-card&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&quot;Why is my printer not reading my SD card?&quot;&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If the SD card is not recognized on the printer or if the files are&#xA;  not reading, it could be an issue with the actual card itself. The&#xA;  first thing we recommend checking is that none of the print files on&#xA;  the SD card contain a space in their name. This shows in the printer&#xA;  as an unidentified character and can cause issues. If none of your&#xA;  prints contain spaces, we recommend reformatting your SD card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Note:  If you choose to purchase an SD card, &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;please make sure that it&#xA;  is not labeled HC (High Capacity)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; as it &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;may not be compatible with the&#xA;  printer&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;. This means that &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;the card must be smaller than 4GB in size&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The last part of the support page is probably applicable to your card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some further information can be found in &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/5247/what-is-the-largest-microsd-card-that-a-monoprice-select-mini-can-read&quot;&gt;What is the largest microSD card that a Monoprice Select Mini can read?&lt;/a&gt;, specifically &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/5311/5740&quot;&gt;this answer&lt;/a&gt;. From this latter answer, I quote:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Cards between 2 GB and 32 GB &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;might&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; work, depending on the specifics of&#xA;  the card&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically there are no guarantees when using large cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-01-02T12:17:54.730" LastActivityDate="2019-01-02T12:17:54.730" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7850" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7847" CreationDate="2019-01-02T08:44:39.380" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;This answer is now obsolete now that the OP has updated the question with additional information. It is left here as a possible solution for those who have tinkered with there firmware.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Part cooling fan speed during preheat (from menu) is controlled by the setting &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#define PREHEAT_1_FAN_SPEED     0 // Value from 0 to 255&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;in &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/blob/1.1.x/Marlin/Configuration.h&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Configuration.h&lt;/a&gt; where a value of &lt;code&gt;0&lt;/code&gt; implies no rotation, or 0&amp;nbsp;% and &lt;code&gt;255&lt;/code&gt; implies 100&amp;nbsp;%.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If changing this value in your configuration does not result in a reduced fan speed, you could have this constant be defined somewhere else overriding this value.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-01-02T12:25:47.470" LastActivityDate="2019-01-02T12:25:47.470" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7851" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7847" CreationDate="2019-01-02T10:42:37.500" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Apparently, I forgot a critical step:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While I have completely reconfigured the LCD menus, setup custom 25-point mesh leveling, changed a bunch of other numerical values, and flashed the firmware dozens of times, certain values will never be updated unless you remember to &lt;strong&gt;initialize the EEPROM&lt;/strong&gt; after the flash! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Honestly I kinda wish they would make it all or nothing but I guess there is limited space so particular things take priority.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13829" LastEditorUserId="13829" LastEditDate="2019-01-03T16:54:29.833" LastActivityDate="2019-01-03T16:54:29.833" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7852" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-01-02T13:10:57.223" Score="3" ViewCount="95" Body="&lt;p&gt;I managed to tear my build plate trying to get some very stubborn plastic off it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fDqad.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fDqad.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Torn build plate&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'll need to buy a new one, what characteristics are important for me to ensure it's compatable with my printer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can think of:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Dimensions&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Power requirements&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Connector types&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;That my printer moves the plate in the z axis (?)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;NB&lt;/em&gt;  I'm so new at this I didn't realise that this was just a sticker on the plate, so I just need to replace this sticker.  However, as a question, I'm still curious as there's a good chance I will break it at some point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13813" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-12-10T06:11:28.693" LastActivityDate="2019-12-10T17:24:28.420" Title="Important build plate characteristics/qualities" Tags="|fdm|build-plate|replacement-parts|monoprice-maker-ultimate|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7855" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7856" CreationDate="2019-01-02T16:02:21.283" Score="13" ViewCount="6789" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to print a transparent PET bottle for my homemade lemonades and thought about 3D-printing them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would like the printed bottle's quality to be as fine as a Coca-Cola PET bottle for coke and the printing substrate or material be something that's cheap or readily available. I thought I might recycle some old PET bottles to print the custom one for my lemonades as I don't want something that would require me buying new materials or re-exporting from the manufacturer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it possible to recycle PET and print it into food-certified containers?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14058" LastEditorUserId="895" LastEditDate="2020-11-05T21:21:54.830" LastActivityDate="2020-11-05T21:21:54.830" Title="Can I 3D-print a PET bottle?" Tags="|print-quality|print-material|pet|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7856" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7855" CreationDate="2019-01-02T17:38:15.997" Score="26" Body="&lt;h1&gt;No, due to 3 reasons&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;PET is not (easily) printable.&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a lot of confusion on what Filaments you can buy: &lt;strong&gt;most times filament branded PET is actually PETG, sometimes PETT.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PET is not an easily printable material at all. With expert knowledge and the right machine settings it &lt;em&gt;can&lt;/em&gt; be printed, but even then, it is not as easily recyclable into a useable 3D-printer-filament as you might think. You need full reprocessing capabilities, which means the need for machinery to allow thorough cleaning, grinding to dust, melting it up, pelletizing and finally extrusion as a fresh filament.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The closest related material that is easily printable is PET&lt;strong&gt;G&lt;/strong&gt;, a modified PET that also contains glycol. You can't convert PET into PETG with home or hobbyist applications at all - they are &lt;a href=&quot;http://blog.wheaton.com/pet-vs-petg-what-is-the-difference/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;totally different&lt;/a&gt; in their chemical behavior, even as just one material was added in production. PETG is not brittle like PET, it does not haze on heating, but it ages in UV light, scratches easily and can't be autoclaved like PET. But the chemical modification has to be done during the initial manufacturing of the material, and it is &lt;a href=&quot;https://blog.teqnow.com/pet-and-petg-a-bad-combination&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;a huge mess&lt;/a&gt; to try to recycle the two together, which can and will happen if you try to work with material you source from recycling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;“When they’re processed together, PETG melts and becomes sticky while PET remains solid. PETG sticks to PET chips and forms large clumps that pose processing problems.” &lt;sup&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://resource-recycling.com/recycling/2017/10/24/pet-resin-code-changes-california/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Resource Recycling&lt;/a&gt; (magazine/blog)&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;3D printed objects are very unlikely to become food certified.&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can't easily manufacture (certified) food-rated printed products, like food containers due to the requirements that a machine that manufactures food-certified products needs to comply to. I advise looking at &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/6941/8884&quot;&gt;this answer&lt;/a&gt; regarding food rating for more elaboration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;It is hard to print really transparent with FDM.&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Due to the method how FDM works - extruding lines next to each other - it is often impossible to print fully transparent objects right of the bat - there is &lt;em&gt;almost always&lt;/em&gt; air inside a printed object, and there are so many boundaries between the extrusion paths that refract and change the photon paths that the best one can achieve somewhat easily is translucent (=semi-transparent). Read &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/3516/8884&quot;&gt;this answer&lt;/a&gt; for further information.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But if you manage to get the object &lt;a href=&quot;https://learn.colorfabb.com/lets-make-something-clear/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;really solid&lt;/a&gt;, you might get some near-transparent, icy results from some orientations while looking in others still will look matte.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To get them fully transparent you &lt;strong&gt;then&lt;/strong&gt; will have to &lt;a href=&quot;http://fenneclabs.net/index.php/2018/12/09/3d-printing-transparent-parts-using-fdm-fff-printer/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;post-process&lt;/a&gt; them to become fully transparent by grinding the surface up to 4000 grit, but that is very labor intensive and most likely not possible for the inside of a bottle. To be clear, you spend hours polishing one surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Could it be economic in the slightest?&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On a side tangent, the viability of printing a bottle via buying new ones will need to be expored. &lt;em&gt;Shapped&lt;/em&gt; PET Bottles with caps start at \$0.01 per piece and top out at \$1 per piece - you get the better prices if you order in larger quantities. You will have to compete with getting under \$1 per bottle, or rather with what the price of a typical bottle you want is.&lt;sup&gt;alibaba.com&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A typical PET bottle ordered from China weighs 30 g for a 300 ml bottle, and the particular example I looked at comes \$0.22 to \$0.28, depending on the bottle cap, with a minimum order of one parcel with something around 300 items. That seems to be in the average range.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A roll of 1 kg of PET(G?) filament starts at ~\$30 at the moment. That is the weight of 33 shaped bottles per roll. Your print will most likely be heavier than the blown up bottle to get it watertight, but let's just assume you might manage the same weight. Then it's about \$0.90 in the material alone - so we are at more than 300% of a bought product with cap already!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Atop that comes the running cost of the printer, which depends on your print time, printer and electricity price. I know my hobbyist machine comes, maintenance and electricity combined, down to 0.21€/h, so roughly \$0.25. Printing a bottle will take &lt;em&gt;several&lt;/em&gt; hours.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PET preforms that can be blown up to almost &lt;em&gt;any&lt;/em&gt; bottle shape, type and size and ship much cheaper come to prices due to better density. Which means you compete against \$0.015 to \0.15 per bottle in material costs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Conclusion&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is not economically viable to even attempt to print bottles beyond a prototyping stage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:29:41.667" LastActivityDate="2019-01-03T15:16:14.407" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7859" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7746" CreationDate="2019-01-03T01:03:26.993" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you hear some &quot;clicking&quot; during the print then you are experiencing filament slipping inside the extruder gear.&#xA;I had a similar issue on my Geeetech i3 and I fixed it by replacing the extruder tooth gear, the one that pushes the filament inside the hot-end.&#xA;Also, I advice to double check your filament is not getting stuck and your Spool spins freely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13989" LastActivityDate="2019-01-03T01:03:26.993" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7860" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-01-03T02:56:50.250" Score="3" ViewCount="2748" Body="&lt;p&gt;There seem to be a lot of search results answering the question of how to increase wall thickness, but how can I decrease wall thickness? I have an STL model of a mechanical keyboard key where the outside dimensions are correct, but the walls are slightly too thick so the key gets stuck in the down position. I'd like to shave some of the thickness off of the inside of the walls to better match the original key I'm replacing, while leaving the rest of the model dimensions as-is. How can I go about doing this? I consider myself technical in general, though I'm a novice at 3d modeling software.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14071" LastActivityDate="2019-01-03T08:49:02.950" Title="How can I decrease the thickness of a wall in an STL file?" Tags="|3d-models|stl|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7861" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5952" CreationDate="2019-01-03T04:08:39.553" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I see that you've already tried &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.meshmixer.com/download.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Meshmixer - Free Download&quot;&gt;Meshmixer&lt;/a&gt; and didn't find it helpful, but I wanted to call out &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.prusaprinters.org/how-to-create-custom-overhang-supports-in-meshmixer/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;How to Create Custom Overhang Supports in Meshmixer - Prusa Blog&quot;&gt;an article and accompanying video&lt;/a&gt; that I recently found which helped me understand Meshmixer's support generation feature a bit better. It isn't magic, but it is pretty flexible and you can customize them. Plus, you can export them either as a separate file (to be imported via Slic3r's Load Part for example), or as part of the primary object STL file (though you loose the ability to set different print settings for the supports). Much of my printer's time is also devoted to 28mm figurines and I've had varied success with them. There are some models whose detail is too fine and which require too much support to be worth it considering the cleanup - I have a bucket-of-shame that's full of them. I just ordered an upgrade for my printer to allow me to print with multiple filament and I'll be seeing if &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.prusaprinters.org/printing-soluble-interface-supports-prusa-i3-mk2-multi-material/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Printing Soluble Interface Supports with Prusa i3 MK2 Multi Material - Prusa Blog&quot;&gt;soluble support material&lt;/a&gt; is helpful for those small details. Barring that, I've found that some prints do better with Meshmixer's supports while others do better with simplify3d supports, while others still do better with slic3r supports. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Summarizing the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.prusaprinters.org/how-to-create-custom-overhang-supports-in-meshmixer/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;How to Create Custom Overhang Supports in Meshmixer - Prusa Blog&quot;&gt;article&lt;/a&gt; on custom Meshmixer supports:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;ol&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Open your model in Meshmixer&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;From the top menu select View – Show Printer Bed&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Select Edit – Transform and move the model to the middle of the print bed&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;This step is important because Meshmixer won’t generate any supports outside of the print area&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;If you want to print the model on a different scale, scale the model now, again by using the Edit – Transform. It’s better to scale&#xA;  the model now, because an additional change of scale later in slicer&#xA;  would also affect the generated supports, resulting in either too thin&#xA;  and weak supports or too thick and hard to remove supports.&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Change the Scale X (Scale Y and Scale Z) to the desired value (1 = 100%, 1.5 = 150% etc.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Select Analysis – Overhangs&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;You can now adjust the Angle Thresh and see a live preview of areas of the model that should be supported&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Click on Generate Support to see a preview of the support structure&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Every time you make changes to the support settings you’ll have to click on Remove Support and Generate Support to refresh the view&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(The &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OXFKVmMwXCQ&amp;amp;feature=youtu.be&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;How to create custom supports in Meshmixer - YouTube&quot;&gt;video&lt;/a&gt; in the article goes into greater detail on the settings available in step 6.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;ol start=&quot;7&quot;&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Adding and removing supports manually&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;You can create a new support by left-clicking and dragging from an overhang to the ground or from an existing support to the ground&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Hold down the Shift key to ignore intersections of the support strut or any other warning and force Meshmixer to generate the new&#xA;  support (use wisely)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;You can also click on an existing support to generate a new strut going down to the build plate&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;CTRL + Left click on an existing support to remove it&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;When you’re happy with the support structure you can export the model and the support structure together as STL by simply clicking&#xA;  Done and clicking on the Export button in the left menu&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Alternatively, you can select Convert to Solid to create a separate mesh from the support structure. This will let you set different&#xA;  settings in Slic3r for the supports and for the model itself&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ol&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;After choosing Convert to Solid choose Edit – Separate shells&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Export both the model and the supports as individual STL files&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;In Slic3r first load the STL with the model&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Double-click on the model and choose Load part…, select the supports STL file&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;When the STL loads, you can overwrite some of the settings by clicking on the green plus icon&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ol&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14071" LastActivityDate="2019-01-03T04:08:39.553" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7862" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7842" CreationDate="2019-01-03T07:46:42.210" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Based on the pictures, this looks like the bed wasn't clean enough, thus why it didn't adhere correctly in some spots. The lifted corner is the worst, but I can see a couple more spots where the PLA didn't stick well enough, though the brim prevented it to completely lift off the bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would advise you to not print with the window open, even if it's only slightly ajar. Weather conditions and temperature will affect the quality of the print, even if it's only a small variation in temperature. I've had enough failed prints due to a shift in temperature to know that, even though PLA isn't affected as much than ABS by temperature changes through a print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might also try to increase the bed temperature a bit, up to 70°C or 80°C. I've looked at the recommended temperature for PLA with my UM3E and it says 80°C for the glass bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should always make sure that the glass bed is clean: ie no dust on it and no grease. Yes, touching it with your fingers will leave a thin greasy residue in the form of fingerprints, and even one fingerprint can prevent good adhesion and result in the problem you had.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are various products to clean glass beds, I've personally found out that the cheap yellow-colored window cleaner from Karcher works wonder. Do not use the standard blue colored window cleaner products: the blue one has a chemical in it that is made with the express intent to prevent anything to adhere to the glass, which is obviously not what we want. The yellow-colored cleaner doesn't have that chemical, and it cleans without depositing an anti-adhesion film on the glass.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If a thorough cleaning isn't sufficient, you can look into various adhesive products. While there is quite a lot of adhesive solutions marketed as being specifically for 3D printing, with insane prices most of the time, I've found that a simple UHU glue stick works wonders. I usually do not need glue when printing PLA, but I use it for Nylon, ABS and other filament that absolutely require it and it's a breeze to work with, and it cleans easily with soap and warm water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12917" LastActivityDate="2019-01-03T07:46:42.210" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7863" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7842" CreationDate="2019-01-03T08:42:24.180" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a standard adhesion problem with glass beds:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Glass beds are super level, but they transfer heat less good than metal and BuildTak. This also means that not every spot always has the exact same temperature, which can come from a lot of things, for example, a draft from the open window jitting that corner and causing lifting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are some super easy and cheap solutions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Painters Tape adds a little &lt;em&gt;bite&lt;/em&gt; to the surface, but you need to level to its top.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a thin PVA (Gluestick, wood glue, hairspray, or specifically designed sprays for 3D printing) bonds the first layers much better to the glass&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;for ABS, ABS-in-acetone-slurry is a known bed adhesive&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;measure the top of the bed temperature - you will find out that the increased thermal capacity of the bed+glass sheet means that your set bed temperature is not reached on the bed surface. Adjust as needed!&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;prevent any and all draft (close windows and doors)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2020-09-09T09:57:45.630" LastActivityDate="2020-09-09T09:57:45.630" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7864" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7860" CreationDate="2019-01-03T08:49:02.950" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The process is rather simple:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;import your model into either a modeling software (e.g. Blender et al.) or a CAD-program (e.g. fusion360, Design Spark Mechanical et al.) that can import and export STL.&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;if needed, convert the STL into a useable model with your chosen program's functions or switch to edit mode.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;select inner walls and extrude them the desired amount.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;export as STL again.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastActivityDate="2019-01-03T08:49:02.950" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7866" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3587" CreationDate="2019-01-03T19:06:21.027" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to Shuichi Sato, Daiki Gondo, Takayuki Wada, Shinji Kanehashi &amp;amp; Kazukiyo Nagai: &lt;em&gt;Effects of various liquid organic solvents on solvent‐induced crystallization of amorphous poly(lactic acid) film&lt;/em&gt; in &lt;em&gt;Journal of Applied Polymer Science&lt;/em&gt;, Volume 129 Issue 3 (2013), p1607-1617&lt;sup&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/abs/10.1002/app.38833&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;source&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;, Tetrahydrofuran is classified as a solvent for PLA. The specific entry on page 1608:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Group  Solvent          Solvent type    dd   dp   dh   dt   Result&#xA;Ether  Tetrahydrofuran  Polar aprotic  16.8  5.7  8   19.4  soluble&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The values dd dp dh and dt are explained on page 1607:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The effects of 60 liquid organic solvents on PLA are systematically&#xA;investigated using the Hansen solubility parameter (HSP). The HSP&#xA;is one of the digitizing methods for analyzing the interaction&#xA;between polymer materials and organic solvents. In HSP analysis,&#xA;all solvents have three parameters: energy from dispersion bonds&#xA;between molecules (dd), dipolar intermolecular force between molecules&#xA;(dp), and the hydrogen bonds between molecules (dh). All solvents&#xA;were characterized by a point in a three-dimensional structure&#xA;at which dd, dp, and dh are plotted on three mutually perpendicular&#xA;axes. Generally, if the HSP values of the various organic solvents&#xA;are near that of the given polymer, the solvent is considered compatible&#xA;with the polymer material.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The factor dt is the total Hansen solubility parameter - the bigger this is, the better it is a solvent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;19.4 is a rather good solvent but &lt;strong&gt;extremely explosive&lt;/strong&gt;: in air 20000 ppm (2%) are explosive and thus the allowable concentration in an area is 2000 ppm&lt;sup&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.cdc.gov/niosh/idlh/109999.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;source&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Alternatives&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A similar potent solvent would be Benzene (dt = 18.6) which more easily available and less explosive, but more deadly (10000-20000 ppm fumes) and has an allowable concentration of 500 ppm&lt;sup&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.cdc.gov/niosh/idlh/71432.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;source&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ethyl-acetate is also a solvent (dt = 18.2) and more available. It is explosive at an equal concentration as Tetrahydrofuran&lt;sup&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.cdc.gov/niosh/idlh/141786.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;source&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;, but it has just about half of its vapor pressure (73 mmHg&lt;sup&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.cdc.gov/niosh/npg/npgd0260.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;source&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;  vs. 132 mmHg&lt;sup&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.cdc.gov/niosh/npg/npgd0602.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;source&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;), so can be stored more safely, and is less aggressive on the body. It is sometimes used to Smooth PLA via vapor chamber&lt;sup&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Polylactic_acid#Organic_Solvents_for_PLA&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;source&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;, and only comes at a price tag of ca. 90 €/l for the pure stuff and also is used in some nail polish removers, put into a safe mix.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Acetone is classified as a &lt;em&gt;better&lt;/em&gt; solvent (dt = 20.1), and it is known to act as a glue and to soften PLA with some exposure time, but from experience, it can't smooth it. It is available most easy (nail polish remover and in the home depot), and is the least deadly option.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Propylene-1,2-carbonate is classed as solvent and a far better at it with dt = 27.2. It has been used as an alternative to Ethyl-Acetate&lt;sup&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Polylactic_acid#Organic_Solvents_for_PLA&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;source&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt; and its MSDS is rather gentle&lt;sup&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.nwmissouri.edu/naturalsciences/sds/p/Propylene%20carbonate.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;source&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;. It comes at a price tag of 130 €/l for the chemical-grade liquid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Conclusion&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tetrahydrofuran is not a viable replacement due to its explosive properties. It is not an improvement above Benzene, which at least can be stored safely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using Acetone as a benchmark, Tetrahydrofuran should not smooth the surface in a vapor chamber, as it is a worse solvent than Acetone. It should also take &lt;strong&gt;longer&lt;/strong&gt; to soften and dissolve objects than Acetone, but a heated bath or coating the surface with it could help to generate the needed exposure times.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, its comparable ethyl-acetate has been claimed to be used as a cleaning, vapor smoothing, and brush on surface smoothing agent successfully and can be used better by helping the solubility via heating, which can be done much safer with ethyl-acetate than THF. In a proper chemical mix, its storage problem can be solved too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A better alternative is propylene-1,2-carbonate, which is a better solvent, and much less dangerous.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;tl;dr&lt;/strong&gt;: No, Tetrahydrofuran is not able to dissolve PLA in a reasonable time&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; without heat activation and it has worse characteristics than Acetone. It could arguably be used to weld parts, but Dichloromethane would be more effective.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1 - Sato, Gondo et al. in the aforementioned paper: &lt;em&gt;Solubility tests were performed for 24 h at 35+-1 °C.&lt;/em&gt; which means we have a prolonged exposure of a thin film to a huge amount of solvent. how thin a film? &lt;strong&gt;Very&lt;/strong&gt; thin: &lt;em&gt;The PLA films&#xA;were prepared by casting 2 wt % dichloromethane solution onto a&#xA;flat-bottomed glass Petri dish in a glass bell-type vessel and by drying&#xA;under atmospheric pressure at room temperature. Each solvent&#xA;was allowed to evaporate for 48 h. The dried PLA films were then&#xA;thermally treated under a vacuum for 48 h at 70 °C to eliminate&#xA;the residual solvent and to obtain amorphous PLA films. Afterwards,&#xA;the thermally treated PLA films were cooled at room temperature&#xA;under atmospheric pressure.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:29:41.667" LastActivityDate="2019-09-20T10:47:35.297" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7867" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7875" CreationDate="2019-01-04T00:08:32.683" Score="3" ViewCount="746" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here's what it looks like&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XjFer.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XjFer.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the model&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2991851&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;thingiverse linky&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It looks like it couldn't print the edge, but this happened many many hours after printing the brim.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This did not happen with my 1st attempt at this print. The last print lost adhesion and I had to scrap it. This time, adhesion looks good so not sure why this happened.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Printing with Monoprice Select V2 with ABS, sliced with Cura. 100C bed / 250C extruder. 15mm/s initial layer speed. 60 mm/s print speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;It looks like the printer is starting to smooth it out like so. Still not sure if this will lead to an ok print or will fail because of this layer.&#xA;And it seems the stringing area does not have a brim underneath it. Did Cura just not calculate the brim size correctly?&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kKMYw.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kKMYw.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update2&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;Here's a few screenshots from Cura to show that the model is lying completely flat.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iywA2.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iywA2.png&quot; alt=&quot;cura1&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DvtBr.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DvtBr.png&quot; alt=&quot;cura2&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kc7Xh.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kc7Xh.png&quot; alt=&quot;cura3&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;I let the print go on overnight and here's where I stopped it&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HPNrX.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HPNrX.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;top view&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6XRvv.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6XRvv.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;side view&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;It almost seems like the print shifted completely after printing the initial layer. Have you ever seen anything like this or is there anything in my Cura model that would make it do this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13712" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-12-10T06:08:05.273" LastActivityDate="2019-12-10T06:08:05.273" Title="What causes this &quot;stringing&quot; and can my print recover from this?" Tags="|troubleshooting|print-failure|monoprice-maker-select|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7868" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7867" CreationDate="2019-01-04T03:03:40.180" Score="-3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are many problems caused with this. It could be a faulty motors, an unlevel bed, a dirty nozzle, or even something as simple as using the wrong filament settings. It would be best to go through a checklist of things that might be wrong with your printer. It could also just be caused by the wear and tear of a  really old printer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14091" LastActivityDate="2019-01-04T03:03:40.180" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7870" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1582" CreationDate="2019-01-04T09:17:33.437" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Before I got an aftermarket heated print bed for my M3D, I regularly used a hair dryer to pre-heat the build plate up to 60-70&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C before printing with no ill effects.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14095" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-01-04T12:32:31.963" LastActivityDate="2019-01-04T12:32:31.963" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7873" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7867" CreationDate="2019-01-04T13:35:20.080" Score="2" Body="&lt;h1&gt;No, the print is lost.&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;First thoughts after Update 1&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your print will not perfectly recover from this stringing issue, which to me looks to be unsupported bridging. I postulate that your slicing seems to be made with the model not aligned flat on the bottom correctly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The biggest indicator for this is, that the brim is passing right underneath the model, so in that area, the slicer did not detect the model touching the surface, which means it is considered floating.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Re-slice the model and check in layer view that you absolutely have the bottom touching to the sheet everywhere. Use the &amp;quot;lay flat&amp;quot; function (which should suffice) or enable at least 10% support to the build plate (which in this case should not be needed). Even though the model doesn't &lt;em&gt;need&lt;/em&gt; this because the base is flat as to inspection, the last resort could be to move the item 0.1 mm into the sheet, cutting off any odd protrusion your slicer identifies that can result in parts of the object &amp;quot;floating&amp;quot; and demanding to bridge long ways into the unsupported nirvana.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;New Thoughts/Revision after Update 2&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After the new photos, it became apparent that it was &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; a slicing issue of a slightly angled print but a &lt;strong&gt;layer shift.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will have to check the tension of your bed belt and if anything might have come into your bed movement. On my Ender 3 I had tried a cable chain, which did hinder Y-Axis movement - make sure that it has not even a movement of short snagging.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Make sure that your nozzle does not snatch on the print as it moves. Maybe activate Z-hopping.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:29:41.667" LastActivityDate="2019-01-04T20:10:10.177" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7875" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7867" CreationDate="2019-01-04T18:43:03.063" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;your problem is not related to slicing&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;, &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;this is a hardware problem&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;. Your complete print has shifted, this is called &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/#layer-shifting-or-misalignment&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;layer shift&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This could happen when the nozzle hits an obstruction while printing while the Y stepper continues. This could lead to skipping teeth on the belts, slipping of the pulley or missing steps. This results in printing over air as the print progresses. This manifests itself as stringing, but in fact is unsupported printing (in the air). In this case it is unrecoverable as the printer has lost the reference frame, it just continues to print with the new reference frame caused by the layer shift. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A Prusa MK3, or any printerboard using trinamic stepper drivers would be able to recover (if the belt and pulley are correctly attached, and steps are missed) as the skipping of steps is detected, in case of a Prusa  MK3 the machine will re-home when it detects skipped steps and continue printing. See also &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/6880/5740&quot;&gt;this answer&lt;/a&gt; for more details.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Possible solutions are increasing the belt tension, increase the stepper torque by increasing the current through the stepper drivers or re-tighten the pulley on the stepper of the Y belt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-01-04T19:00:06.800" LastActivityDate="2019-01-04T19:00:06.800" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7877" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-01-05T14:49:14.120" Score="1" ViewCount="285" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a set of 2D pictures from a CT scan.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I convert them into a 3D model for 3D printing? An example looks like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EV9Q8.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;CT-Scan of a mouse&amp;#39;s bones&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EV9Q8.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;CT-Scan of a mouse&amp;#39;s bones&quot; title=&quot;CT-Scan of a mouse&amp;#39;s bones&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14115" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2019-04-16T08:30:39.027" LastActivityDate="2019-04-16T08:30:39.027" Title="How to build a CT scan into a printable 3D model?" Tags="|3d-models|3d-design|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7878" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1582" CreationDate="2019-01-05T14:59:03.630" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;cold wind can help to acceleratory cool down and dry the build plates to make it easy to part them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14115" LastActivityDate="2019-01-05T14:59:03.630" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7879" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7877" CreationDate="2019-01-06T01:14:15.703" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Using the terms &quot;convert CT scan to 3D model,&quot; I found a number of links of tutorials. One of them is described as free, with registration and appears to be web based. The link, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.embodi3d.com/blogs/entry/345-a-ridiculously-easy-way-to-convert-ct-scans-to-3d-printable-bone-stl-models-for-free-in-minutes/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Embodi3D&lt;/a&gt;, appears to have a relatively comprehensive set of instructions to accomplish your goal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-convert-medical-scan-data-into-a-3D-printab/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Instructables&lt;/a&gt; also has a similar tutorial. Should neither of these prove suitable, the search terms above may be of value.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Image below via Instructables:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vgdRW.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vgdRW.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;bone scan&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastActivityDate="2019-01-06T01:14:15.703" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7880" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-01-06T01:48:16.233" Score="3" ViewCount="1107" Body="&lt;p&gt;When choosing a layer height, I know that often you go as fine as your printer will do for better precision, but sometimes you go a little thicker, for speed, for example.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also see 0.1&amp;nbsp;mm and 0.2&amp;nbsp;mm as common thicknesses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are my options here? When I'm working on a part where I want to print a draft piece, and the quality matters less, can I set it to 0.15&amp;nbsp;mm? 0.11&amp;nbsp;mm? The Ultimaker Cura slicer I normally use will let me put in almost anything, but what can it really do? If I can use values in between simple 0.1&amp;nbsp;mm increments, are there reasons I might want to do so?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For reference, I have a Monoprice Maker Select Plus with a 0.4&amp;nbsp;mm nozzle and, again, Ultimaker Cura as the slicer. But more general answers for other printer types and slicers are also encouraged. I want to know about this generally, and not just for one printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12562" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-04-30T21:00:06.397" LastActivityDate="2020-06-02T02:46:57.197" Title="How specific can I get setting layer heights?" Tags="|layer-height|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7881" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7890" CreationDate="2019-01-06T04:45:55.790" Score="3" ViewCount="3090" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Monoprice Select v2 that I just bought less than 2 months ago. I've manually leveled it on several prints prior.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I noticed a couple of holes in my print bed after my last print, like the extruder pushed into the sheet really hard. They're both on the same side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I then noticed that the extruder's horizontal bar wasn't leveled so I leveled it. I did this by unplugging the wire to one motor and modified the z-position so that the other connected side would go up. (Is this the proper way of adjusting the horizontal bar?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And then I moved the extruder back into its Home position at z-position 0.&#xA;That's when I noticed that it seems my extruder barely reaches my print bed even though I have the screws almost loosened to the point of detaching from the thread.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The extruder z-limit-switch (I think that's what it's called) seems to be pressed so the extruder is as far down as it can go. The controls also show that the z-position is at 0.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I'm guessing my print bed somehow lowered. But I don't see how that could possibly be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are some photos but I'm not even sure what to show really&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;you can see the z-limit-switch in the right of this pic next to the letter A's&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jj6hS.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jj6hS.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;pic1&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;you can see my extruder still has some distance to go before reaching my print bed but you can also see that my screws are loosened as much as possible&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NUOdX.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NUOdX.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;pic2&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;showing the horizontal extruder bar is now leveled&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RyK5o.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RyK5o.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;pic3&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13712" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-12-10T06:07:35.907" LastActivityDate="2019-12-10T06:07:35.907" Title="I can't level my bed any more" Tags="|bed-leveling|monoprice-maker-select|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7882" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7880" CreationDate="2019-01-06T11:45:21.363" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You decide which layer height you want based on the quality you desire, but never go over about 75&amp;nbsp;% of your nozzle diameter, so with your 0.4&amp;nbsp;mm nozzle never choose layer heights larger than 0.3&amp;nbsp;mm. The rationale of this rule of thumb is that the filament leaves the nozzle as a tube and needs to be flattened to make it adhere to the previous layer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-01-07T09:14:59.610" LastActivityDate="2019-01-07T09:14:59.610" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7883" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7880" CreationDate="2019-01-06T15:09:52.800" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Layer hight can be theoretically &lt;em&gt;anything&lt;/em&gt; as long as it fits into these ranges:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;it needs to be at least one step for the Z-Axis motor to be physically possible&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;it should be at max 3/4th of your nozzle diameter to create an adhesion surface&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In praxis, the lowest setting for layer height due to physical limitations of the extrusion systems is around 0.05 mm. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, not &lt;em&gt;any&lt;/em&gt; number is possible, it is dependant on the Z-axis system: since one or one-half step is the smallest rotation that the stepper can achieve, the raise that belongs to this partial rotation is how much one and the next layer height can be together. The step limitation usually is of no concern though, unless one has a very steep lead screw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a rule of thumb: doubling layer thickness results in &lt;em&gt;almost&lt;/em&gt; half the print time. 0.1, 0.2 and 0.3 mm are common because they allow easy checking the printed accuracy in Z-axis with calipers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2019-01-07T10:45:28.443" LastActivityDate="2019-01-07T10:45:28.443" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7884" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7581" CreationDate="2019-01-06T15:19:52.047" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, you did not set all the settings to the same speed, there are 2 different print speeds defined:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Infill Solid: &lt;strong&gt;60&lt;/strong&gt; mm/s&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;First Layer Speed: &lt;strong&gt;30%&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This means, that some walls will be printed 10 mm/s faster than the others, and that &lt;em&gt;first layer&lt;/em&gt; should be printed at 30% of 50 mm/s, so at 15 mm/s - try to define it as a speed. Make sure to save and apply the settings and only &lt;em&gt;then&lt;/em&gt; slice your model, as you might have sliced the model with the previous settings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastActivityDate="2019-01-06T15:19:52.047" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7885" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7877" CreationDate="2019-01-06T15:30:00.457" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Knowing the layer thickness, you can &lt;strong&gt;manually&lt;/strong&gt; re-engineer/design the object:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;take your CAD or 3D modeling program of choice&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;import one picture into the XY axis&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;trace the outline on that layer&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;add a construction layer one layer thickness above&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rinse 1-3 and repeat for all layers.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Combine the outlines, method depending on your program &#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;this might be quite easy in blender if you add the new &lt;em&gt;layer&lt;/em&gt; by extruding the previous one up by one layer thickness and just move the vertices to match the new outline&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;finally, export the model as &lt;code&gt;.stl&lt;/code&gt; depending on your program, slice and print.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2019-01-06T16:02:49.273" LastActivityDate="2019-01-06T16:02:49.273" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7886" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7880" CreationDate="2019-01-06T18:20:51.413" Score="3" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The thicker the layer, the smaller the number of interlayer contact zones (this is a weak point), the higher the strength of the part.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;For good interlayer adhesion, the thickness of the layer should not exceed half the diameter of the nozzle (this is pure geometry). The recommended value is 0.8 * 0.5 * D.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There is an opinion that the thickness of the layer should be a multiple of the height of the Z climb to one full engine step (in order to avoid accumulation of error).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thus, for an engine with a step of 1.8 degrees and a screw with a step of 8 mm per revolution (most common configuration of Z-axis), the layer thickness must be a multiple of 0.04 mm. For a nozzle with a diameter of 0.4 mm, the recommended layer thickness is 0.16 mm, maximum valid is 0.2 mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14121" LastEditorUserId="14121" LastEditDate="2019-01-07T13:35:10.140" LastActivityDate="2019-01-07T13:35:10.140" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7888" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3631" CreationDate="2019-01-07T00:32:53.677" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Check your Z-calibration.  I have a similar problem that I'm about to investigate.  I have a feeling the Z-axis pulses per mm may need to decrease ever so slightly.  The cumulative error may lead to the extruder poking at finished layers as the part gets taller.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14127" LastActivityDate="2019-01-07T00:32:53.677" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7889" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7805" CreationDate="2019-01-07T00:49:43.813" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Inspired by the answer given by @Trish and the following &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtube.com/watch?v=GmIkOJmBv_c&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;YouTube video&lt;/a&gt;, I finally worked out the way to reconstruct the 3D crystal model in AutoCAD. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Import 6 images into AutoCAD. The photos are taken from 6 different angles with 30 degrees separation.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VuPPQ.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VuPPQ.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Draw 6 lines of length 100 along Y axis in the XY plane.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MSWjt.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MSWjt.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Use ALINE command to align the rotation axis in the photos to the added vertical lines.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/44Mht.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/44Mht.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Use SCALE command to rescale all 6 photos into a uniform size.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cVGeA.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cVGeA.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Use POLYLINE command to trace the cross sections from 6 raster images.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KF6pk.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KF6pk.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Use 3DROTATE command to rotate 6 images and the corresponding rotation axes and traced cross sections along Y axis. The first picture was rotated 75 degrees clockwise when viewed along the +Y axis, the second 45 degrees, the third 15 degrees, the fourth -15 degrees... (Tips: The rotation gizmo will only show in a 3D view. If you didn't see the gizmo, drag the view cube on the right-top to change the view point and try again.)&#xA;(view from Y axis)&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RP6Cj.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RP6Cj.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;(view from Z axis)&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/A7T3z.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/A7T3z.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Use 3DMOVE command to move 6 images so that the rotation axis of each image is aligned in a same circle on the YZ plane. (You would need a little bit calculation to finish this step)&#xA;(view from Y axis)&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SDFcw.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SDFcw.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;(view from Z axis)&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8zNym.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8zNym.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Use EXTRUDE command to extrude 6 cross sections into 6 cylinders, the height of each cylinder should be long enough so that 6 cylinders will intersect.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JuKo3.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JuKo3.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Use INTERSECT command to get the intersected part from 6 cylinders, this would be the wanted crystal model. &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hg7II.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hg7II.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13996" LastActivityDate="2019-01-07T00:49:43.813" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7890" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7881" CreationDate="2019-01-07T03:49:44.067" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The bar where the level is attached is the support cross-bar for the X-axis travel. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's important this bar be level, but it's even &lt;em&gt;more important&lt;/em&gt; the bar be true to the rest of the machine. We call this &quot;leveling&quot; the printer, but really the more accurate term is &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.cnccookbook.com/tramming-milling-machine-tool-indicator/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;tramming&lt;/a&gt;&quot;. If the bar is level, but the machine sits on an unlevel surface, things are out of sync. This may be the case here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I did this by unplugging the wire to one motor and modified the z-position so that the other connected side would go up. (Is this the proper way of adjusting the horizontal bar?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No. The first image in your question shows two threaded vertical rods: one on the left that is exposed, and one on the right that is more hidden (only a small portion is visible between the two &quot;A&quot; labels). These rods control travel in the vertical &quot;z&quot; direction. Each rod has an &lt;strong&gt;inline coupler&lt;/strong&gt; connecting it to the Z-stepper motors. The coupler for the right side is visible just below the square label &quot;A&quot;. You adjust the level of the X cross-bar by turning the couplers while the printer is turned off or the motors are otherwise disengaged. This allows you to make finer adjustments for the bar, often without needing to re-home the Z axis.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also use this method to correct your immediate problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I own a Select Plus, which uses similar construction to your Select V2. When I first got the printer one of my couplers was not adequately secured to the rod. This made for all kinds of difficulty leveling the bed at first, including at one point an issue similar to what you are experiencing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Re-leveling the X cross-bar is easiest if you are first certain the printer itself is on a level surface. If this is the case, you should be able to use the level in the images to check the cross-bar in the same way you did previously, making adjustments via couplers. &lt;em&gt;But check that surface first.&lt;/em&gt; If the surface is &lt;em&gt;not level&lt;/em&gt;, you need to adjust the X cross-bar to be parallel to something in the machine &lt;em&gt;other than the bed&lt;/em&gt;. While we &lt;em&gt;want&lt;/em&gt; the bed to match the rest of the machine, the very fact you can adjust this means it's not guaranteed at any point in time, and so you should use something more structural to compare against. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this case, you can place the same level across the two steel Y-axis travel bars below the bed, and check where the bubble sits. Then make sure the bubble ends up in exactly the same position for the X cross-bar, regardless of whether or not that's level to the ground. The greater precision you can get here, the better things will be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm gonna add some notes about leveling the beds on these specific printer models.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are three basic types of leveling:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Manual. You do everything yourself.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Assisted. You still do most things yourself, but the machine will help by moving the head quickly to certain positions for you to check. This is what many machines refer to as &quot;automatic&quot;, even though it really isn't.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Automatic. This is where the machine does everything, using lasers to map the bed or some other contact sensor to detect when the head approaches the bed and make it's own adjustments. Often this only uses software to compensate for the bed, and so you still want to get the bed as level as possible first without this option.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Select V2 and Select Plus only do #2: assisted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I was starting out, my research indicated you should generally level your print beds &quot;hot&quot;, because heating a print bed will expand it and potentially change the results. This makes sense to me. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, the instructions included with my Select Plus said nothing about heating the bed, and if followed precisely meant I leveled a cold bed. Additionally, the so-called &quot;automatic&quot; (really: &quot;assisted&quot;) leveling tool in the firmware also does not keep the bed heated, meaning if you want to level it hot you must do it entirely manually. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This caused me great difficulty when first starting out getting a good level, because I was trying to do it manually on a hot bed. I finally gave up on that, and started using the assisted tool on a cold bed. To my surprise and relief &amp;mdash; and counter to what I've read elsewhere &amp;mdash; I've had &lt;em&gt;much&lt;/em&gt; better results when doing it cold this way. But this may be some peculiar to these printers, perhaps involving the special mat it uses on the surface of the bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm also considering this upgrade (Update: I recently installed it, but it's too soon to know if it's helping), to help improve things even further, since there is some curvature in my plate:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B07B251KBS&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07B251KBS/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, there's an interesting seesaw effect when working on a square print bed with four adjustment knobs. I have a post about it here:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://blogs.msmvps.com/jcoehoorn/blog/2019/01/07/leveling-a-square-3d-printer-bed-with-four-mounting-posts/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Leveling a square 3d printer bed with four mounting posts&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12562" LastEditorUserId="12562" LastEditDate="2019-06-22T01:33:47.463" LastActivityDate="2019-06-22T01:33:47.463" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7891" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7897" CreationDate="2019-01-07T07:37:34.100" Score="6" ViewCount="3059" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am trying to print an item with a rectangular grid (using PLA on Ultimaker 2+):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RHcqX.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RHcqX.png&quot; alt=&quot;item with a grid&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Holes are 4x4 mm, distance between holes (wall thickness): 1mm. I am printing with 0.4 mm nozzle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately, Ultimaker Cura generates G-code which prints each rectangle on its own and in a quite a bad way:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/I7nE6.gif&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/I7nE6.gif&quot; alt=&quot;print preview&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The printer head tries to draw a rectangle, then moves in the direction opposite to a last laid line, which with not perfect adhesion of single line messes up the print pretty badly: it often picks up last rectangle side and drags it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any way to change the way Ultimaker Cura approaches to lay out the grid? I would imagine that long lines that are connected to other lines would adhere to bed much better than individual squares, but I don't see any options that would allow to alter it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12949" LastEditorUserId="12949" LastEditDate="2019-01-08T07:34:46.950" LastActivityDate="2023-07-11T04:51:45.823" Title="Printing rectangular grid" Tags="|pla|ultimaker-cura|slicing|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7892" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7881" CreationDate="2019-01-07T08:21:36.470" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;For leveling your bed &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;you do not require the use of a bubble level&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;! This is not necessary, if you do, &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;you need to place the printer on a bubble level underground&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;. It is far easier to level the bed relative to the printer frame rather than to the outside world. Basically the bed and the X-axis (the axis that moves your nozzle) need to be parallel and each side of the X-axis needs to have the same distance to a reference point on the frame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In order to level your X-axis you need to position both of the sides at a certain, same distance &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;from a reference point on your frame&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;, e.g. you could measure this with respect to the top of the Z stepper attachments. If you have 2 steppers, it is easy as you can individually move them by turning the lead screw when the stepper motors are not powered. Once you have each side at the correct distance you can commence a homing sequence and start leveling your bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You mention that you are running out of threads for proper leveling of the bed while the Z minimum limit switch is pressed/activated. What you need to do is lower the switch a little so that you have some extra height available. If the switch is at the lowest, you could consider drilling extra holes or filing it down, or print one of the Z-adjustment mods that can be found on the web. This should be enough to level your bed properly. Leveling can be done cold or hot, the difference is that the heat expands the plate a little or causes some changes in the shape of the bed due to the expansion or uneven heating. This difference is usually very small, but sometimes causes your prints not to stick to a hot plate when leveled cold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MEwsv.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MEwsv.png&quot; alt=&quot;Level bed with respect to X-axis&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-07-02T06:41:53.890" LastActivityDate="2019-07-02T06:41:53.890" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7893" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7891" CreationDate="2019-01-07T08:28:07.537" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;This sounds like you have an adhesion problem if it catches laid down filament, you might want to address that first. E.g. use a PVA based glue or spray to get better adhesion. This will result in not dragging laid down filament. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To my knowledge, Ultimaker Cura has no option to choose how you print the squares (direction and start point). However, &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;you could use Z-hop&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; so that it will lift your nozzle (or lower your build plate in your case) prior to moving to the next rectangle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It looks as though you are using an older version of Ultimaker Cura as it only prints one line of each of the small rectangular holes (or are you actually using a single wall/shell), in later versions of Ultimaker Cura this is fixed (e.g. the image below is created with Ultimaker Cura 3.4.1), it will print all walls/shells before commencing to the next small rectangular hole. This way you have more lines deposited which have a possible better adhesion to the increase of laid down material:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4uW0h.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4uW0h.png&quot; alt=&quot;Ultimaker Cura showing all laid down perimeters of small holes in a print&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Further investigation of your image shows that you are using a very fine grating (&amp;lt; 1 mm?) resulting in very limited amount of walls. In your case the version is not that important, but the latter information is just left as a possibility for people that use an older version of Ultimaker Cura.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also note that there is an option to put the brim on the inside of your models (option called &lt;code&gt;Brim Only on Outside&lt;/code&gt;), when disabled, this would also increase the surface area for better adhesion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;There are also option available to start with the outer or inner wall (option &lt;code&gt;Outer Before Inner Walls&lt;/code&gt;), but in this case that would not help you as there is only 1 wall at each side of the rectangular hole.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-01-07T15:20:51.360" LastActivityDate="2019-01-07T15:20:51.360" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7894" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6600" CreationDate="2019-01-07T09:41:04.357" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;IMO, better way for the thickness visualization is the &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Feeler_gauge&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;feeler gauge&lt;/a&gt;. Also it can be successfully used for the calibration of gap between the nozzle and the hotbed (instead paper)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14121" LastActivityDate="2019-01-07T09:41:04.357" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7895" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7891" CreationDate="2019-01-07T10:01:44.947" Score="1" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use the latest stable Cura 3.6.0&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ensure that the setting &quot;Wall Line Count&quot; &gt; 1, recommended value is 3-4&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Uncheck the setting flag &quot;Outer Before Inner Walls&quot;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14121" LastActivityDate="2019-01-07T10:01:44.947" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7897" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7891" CreationDate="2019-01-07T10:40:53.953" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Slicers never create a grid by crossing the already printed lines - they print perimeters and thicken them into a shell. So if the picture that is to be printed is a #, it does not lay down first the || and then the = crossing over it, it lays down an inner square and then builds the rest to get to the shape. This operation rule is held for &lt;em&gt;shells&lt;/em&gt;, but not for &lt;em&gt;infill&lt;/em&gt; patterns.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you describe the printer picking up the printed, you have adhesion problems and your first layer might be not level or too thick. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might also want to enable &quot;print thin walls&quot; and use 2 or 3 perimeters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastActivityDate="2019-01-07T10:40:53.953" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7900" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-01-07T12:47:51.107" Score="2" ViewCount="4000" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can print a reasonably high quality print, but then there will be a millimetre or two of rubbish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9ppdc.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9ppdc.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Bad layer&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9kreD.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9kreD.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Bad layer&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This can happen at the start of a print, in the middle or at the end.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It doesn't seem to be bad G-code as I can reprint with good results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There seems to be a correlation between the bad layers and walls.  They seem to occurs when there is a transition to printing a horizontal wall.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The latter if there two images if the tail end of a thirteen hour print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What's causing this?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is it something I can fix or is it that the (new) printer is failing?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13813" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-01-07T18:24:35.573" LastActivityDate="2019-01-10T05:12:49.423" Title="Bad layers in otherwise good prints" Tags="|print-quality|troubleshooting|quality|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7901" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7900" CreationDate="2019-01-07T13:45:52.863" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;One of the reasons for such a defect may be a local decrease in the diameter of the filament. Carefully check your filament.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14121" LastActivityDate="2019-01-07T13:45:52.863" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7902" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7891" CreationDate="2019-01-07T14:50:13.963" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Try slicing with 0 perimeters (so it's all infill).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4922" LastActivityDate="2019-01-07T14:50:13.963" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7903" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7686" CreationDate="2019-01-07T15:27:02.477" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The frequency of the cycle shouldn't affect the efficiency as such, however more might be lost due to physical properties.  Fast should cause less stress on the printed part, unless it hits a resonance frequency, which it unlikely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13813" LastActivityDate="2019-01-07T15:27:02.477" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7904" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7900" CreationDate="2019-01-07T15:29:01.647" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This can be caused by various problems, of which an &lt;a href=&quot;/a/7901/5740&quot;&gt;aforementioned&lt;/a&gt; filament diameter is only one of multiple possible causes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The observed phenomenon is called &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;under-extrusion&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;. Temporary under-extrusion can also be caused by filament friction on the spool, too low or too high filament extruder gear friction (pressure on the filament by the roller), or friction in a Bowden tube (dust particles). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please ensure your spool unrolls freely (not entangled; entangled filament is audible like &quot;ker-chunk&quot; when the filament is rearranged on the spool by force of the extruder pulling) and check the extruder for friction or slip. If the extruder gear slips, this is also accompanied by an audible &quot;click&quot; that is called clicking. This generally implies that there is too much friction in the hot end, or an obstruction/clog.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Considering that your print recovers from the problem, and that it occurs randomly, the best guess is that your filament in entangled now and then.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-01-10T05:12:49.423" LastActivityDate="2019-01-10T05:12:49.423" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7905" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7906" CreationDate="2019-01-07T15:54:09.763" Score="2" ViewCount="93" Body="&lt;p&gt;Recently, I did discover that it might be possible to print &lt;a href=&quot;https://learn.colorfabb.com/lets-make-something-clear/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;fully solid&lt;/a&gt;, air free and thus optical homogenous, even with PLA.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I design a proper focusing lens (or rather: single sided lens with a flat bottom) with this, ignoring the &lt;a href=&quot;http://fenneclabs.net/index.php/2018/12/09/3d-printing-transparent-parts-using-fdm-fff-printer/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;post-processing&lt;/a&gt; needed to get the surface smooth?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastActivityDate="2019-01-08T15:36:38.357" Title="Designing lenses" Tags="|pla|3d-design|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7906" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7905" CreationDate="2019-01-07T15:54:09.763" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;To calculate the focal length of an optical element, the two main factors are the refraction index and the shape of the lens.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a cylindrical lens with one optic active side (that is, one domed or bowled side), we can ignore the whole bottom cylinder and just take into account the top dome. The shape of the dome is determined by the radius of the circle that created it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Thin, single sided lenses&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a thin, single-sided lens the rather complicated Gullstrand’s formula to calculate the focal length of lenses becomes rather simple:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$f = \frac {r}{(n-1)}$&lt;/span&gt; for the bend facing the object&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$f = \frac {r}{(1-n)}= \frac {-r}{(n-1)}$&lt;/span&gt; for mounting it in reverse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A &lt;a href=&quot;https://polymerdatabase.com/polymer%20physics/Ref%20Index%20Table%20.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Polymer database&lt;/a&gt; did give a refraction index of PLA as &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$n=1.465$&lt;/span&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Thick, single sided lenses&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a thick lens with a total thickness of &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$d$&lt;/span&gt; and one active side, we solve first for the one active side, and then insert:&#xA;&lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$$f_1=\frac{r}{n}  \land \frac {-r}{(1-n)} ; f_2=\infty ; P_i = \frac 1 {f_i}$$&lt;/span&gt;&#xA;&lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$$P=P_1+P_2 -P_1P_2\frac d n ; P_2\to0$$&lt;/span&gt;&#xA;&lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$$f=\frac{1}{P_1}=f_1$$&lt;/span&gt;&#xA;As long as one side of our lense stays flat, the thickness of the lense is mathematically not relevant (save for increasing dispersion).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:29:41.667" LastActivityDate="2019-01-08T15:36:38.357" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7907" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7911" CreationDate="2019-01-07T17:21:15.440" Score="3" ViewCount="14153" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to build an assembly with one larger part (about 50&amp;nbsp;mm&amp;nbsp;x&amp;nbsp;50&amp;nbsp;mm), two small parts (about 10&amp;nbsp;mm&amp;nbsp;x&amp;nbsp;5&amp;nbsp;mm) each, and one part that starts with two 2&amp;nbsp;mm&amp;nbsp;x&amp;nbsp;2&amp;nbsp;mm squares that eventually bridge into a sort of flap. The larger part has decent adhesion for a couple of layers, but the small parts are slipping off the table right away and the nozzle drags them onto the large part since it's the last part being printed in the group, resulting in some stringing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My bed is adequately leveled and can print larger models well so my suspicion is that the small parts are too small for good bed adhesion and need a brim or a raft to increase the surface area. Is this correct? If so, is there a way in Cura to add a brim or raft to the small parts and not the large part? Ideally I would print all pieces at once instead of the large part separate since I will be doing batches of these assemblies in the future.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm using Ultimaker Cura 3.6, printing with PLA filament set to 200&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C at nozzle and 60&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C on the bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13883" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-01-07T19:18:47.053" LastActivityDate="2021-01-24T13:45:00.200" Title="Setting up a brim/raft for only a portion of the overall print" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|adhesion|rafts|brims|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7908" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-01-07T17:32:49.747" Score="1" ViewCount="49" Body="&lt;p&gt;Whilst looking to fix a different problem I had I came across this video.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's a filament reel holder, but at 02:40 the person uses a mysterious fluid.  I haven't seen anything like this before (though had wondered).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/X6ArZeWYSZE&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Mystery cleaning fluid&quot;&gt;Mystery cleaning fluid.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What practical problems would this cleaning fluid mitigate?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13813" LastEditorUserId="13813" LastEditDate="2019-01-08T17:49:37.703" LastActivityDate="2019-01-08T18:24:38.013" Title="Mystery filament cleaning fluid" Tags="|print-quality|extruder|quality|filament-quality|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7909" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7842" CreationDate="2019-01-07T17:43:55.770" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Despite all advice to the contrary, I've had no luck with glue or masking tape.  I print directly onto a glass bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The glass is much thicker than the surface that was originally on the heat plate, because of this heat takes longer to reach the surface of the glass and the temperature probe on the plate is even more inaccurate than it was originally.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using a laser thermometer, I found that pre-heating the plate before the build starts solves the problem as this give the temperature time to even out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Clamp the glass firmly to the heat plate with as many plastic clamps as you can fit (metal ones are too heavy those post office crocodile clips might work).  This will give it a better thermal connection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If that do any work, increase the bed heat to 60° and/or nozzle to 210°.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, clean the glass with washing up liquid and then window cleaner and only hold it with a clean tissue after.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13813" LastActivityDate="2019-01-07T17:43:55.770" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7910" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7908" CreationDate="2019-01-07T19:05:25.680" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gMDDx.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gMDDx.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's a filament cleaner/oiler combo. The black bottle is a variety of machine oil. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The effect of oilers on prints is heavily disputed in the community. The suggestion of plant oils is a very bad one as they can create residue that stays in the hotend and create clogs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastActivityDate="2019-01-07T19:05:25.680" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7911" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7907" CreationDate="2019-01-07T19:27:04.270" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;This is a &amp;quot;No&amp;quot; and &amp;quot;Yes&amp;quot; answer, it depends on the version of Cura you are using!&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;No&lt;/strong&gt;, there are no options available to set the brim to some of the parts in Ultimaker Cura (at the time of writing this answer, pre Cura 4.5.0). You could however change the smaller model to include the brim in your design, or add so-called &amp;quot;Mouse Ears&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the time of writing this answer, the image below shows the Ultimaker Cura interface for &amp;quot;per model&amp;quot; settings, basically different settings with respect to the other models. As can be seen, you cannot expand the &lt;code&gt;Build Plate Adhesion&lt;/code&gt; (it already shows the arrow downwards, so expanded):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5YXXp.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Pre Cura 4.5.0 per model settings example&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5YXXp.png&quot; alt=&quot;Ultimaker Cura with per model settings&quot; title=&quot;Pre Cura 4.5.0 per model settings example&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But, &lt;strong&gt;yes&lt;/strong&gt; as of Cura 4.5.0 (see &lt;a href=&quot;/a/13293/&quot;&gt;this answer&lt;/a&gt;) the &amp;quot;per model&amp;quot; settings have changed and the &lt;code&gt;Build Plate Adhesion&lt;/code&gt; is added with the option to add a &lt;code&gt;Brim Distance&lt;/code&gt; to trick Cura into de-attaching the brim (it will print a brim, but it is not attached to the part):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wzGPZ.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Cura 4.8.0 per model settings example&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wzGPZ.png&quot; alt=&quot;Cura 4.8.0 per model settings example&quot; title=&quot;Cura 4.8.0 per model settings example&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When applied to several models this could result in models with a brim attached and others without the brim attached:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/euEhG.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Example showing brim attached and detached&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/euEhG.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Example showing brim attached and detached&quot; title=&quot;Example showing brim attached and detached&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-01-24T13:45:00.200" LastActivityDate="2021-01-24T13:45:00.200" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7913" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-01-08T05:54:41.797" Score="2" ViewCount="5242" Body="&lt;p&gt;I get an &lt;code&gt;error: printer halted. (kill() called!&lt;/code&gt; Any time I home my machine's X or Y axis. I have just installed a 3D touch auto bed level sensor, ironically it works fine. I was using Sprinter firmware but it doesn't support auto bed level, so thus I'm using Marlin. I am using the latest version of Marlin and it gave me nothing but issues, printer wouldn't move or home at all. I used the latest Marlin 1.1.x bug fix edition (1.1.9) and now everything is working correctly except X and Y homing, the machine throws the &lt;code&gt;error: printer halted. (kill() called!&lt;/code&gt; on Repetier-Host.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I use the &lt;code&gt;M119&lt;/code&gt; command all endstops (optical, not mechanical) show as open unless triggered, the endstops are working correctly. When I home the X and or Y it will do as it should and stop when it hits the endstop but that is when the errors pop up and the printer freezes/no longer to gives commands without disconnecting and reconnecting to the printer again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I home my Z axis it will deploy the probe and come down and touch the bed 2x and no error code and I can still manually move the printer around with the program movements after homing Z axis. I'm not sure what would cause this to happen only on X and Y but any help would be appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I use Repetier-Host but I downloaded Printrun just to see what would happen and it shows the exact same effect/errors. I also tried the Marlin bugfix 2.0 and it gave the same errors too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14141" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-01-11T12:34:46.203" LastActivityDate="2019-01-26T07:26:07.743" Title="X and Y homing issues" Tags="|marlin|firmware|y-axis|x-axis|homing|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="12" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7914" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-01-08T07:37:56.420" Score="1" ViewCount="168" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the context of a personal project I would like to reproduce the appearance of a commercial product of which I send you a cropped image.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would also like to point out that I do not have the object in question, but it would seem that it is made from a polymer.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The product is a case with an embedded electronical card, so heat dissipation is important.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm interested by what kind of plastic is really used here. I plan to have the part manufactured by a company, so I think the method used will be SLS&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I therefore rely on your expertise in the field of 3D printing to try to identify the material used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3WtzK.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3WtzK.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14142" LastEditorUserId="14142" LastEditDate="2019-01-08T20:22:17.947" LastActivityDate="2019-02-08T10:57:17.017" Title="What is this material?" Tags="|material|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="13" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7915" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7930" CreationDate="2019-01-08T09:26:21.183" Score="0" ViewCount="686" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am looking for a font, which is connected and has a good line width (so that it can be 3D printed). Something like in the image below:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aHIKP.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aHIKP.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Something like in the image above would be great, but I don't know the name. Do you have a suggestion for a font?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14104" LastEditorUserId="14104" LastEditDate="2019-01-08T09:52:55.557" LastActivityDate="2019-01-09T00:39:27.303" Title="Font suitable for 3D printing" Tags="|3d-models|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ClosedDate="2019-01-18T14:05:21.823" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7916" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7914" CreationDate="2019-01-08T09:28:10.730" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there anything else about this object, but its picture? Softening temperature, biodegradability, is it stiff of flexible, hard or soft, anything could help identifying its material.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, post-processing (sanding down or chemicals like acetone bath) greatly enhances the range of filaments that can be used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just from the picture, my first guess would be: it looks very much like what ceramic powder added filaments can yield with when you sand them down afterwards. Take a look at pictures of prints with LayBrick, CERAMO, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On second thought, &lt;strong&gt;the answer is: Polyamide/Nylon&lt;/strong&gt;. It must be either a polyamide case or polyamide coating of some other material. For home projects, MJF polyamide prints can easily be ordered online. Ordering polyamide coating of plastic parts can be trickier depending on your location, although definitely doable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Going with Nylon at home prints may require a non-basic 3D printer and some expertise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14143" LastEditorUserId="14143" LastEditDate="2019-01-08T10:43:37.690" LastActivityDate="2019-01-08T10:43:37.690" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7918" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7919" CreationDate="2019-01-08T14:45:17.120" Score="6" ViewCount="12778" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been having some bed adhesion problems that I have been trying to solve by leveling the bed. I think that it's pretty level now but when I start a print the lines seem pretty flat. Is this true? I used a feeler gauge to have a 0.2 mm gap between the bed and nozzle, but the center feels as though there's more space, despite the tape (ie I didn't feel any resistance when leveling the center) so I'm not sure if the plastic is too squished or not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GKkPC.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GKkPC.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Top View&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3SbVq.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3SbVq.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Side View&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am printing PLA with 210 °C at Nozzle and 60 °C on bed. I also used a 130% extrusion factor for the first layer on a Creality CR-10S. It did come without a black print surface but with a glass sheet and a roll of painters tape instead, so I opted for Blue-tape.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, I see some stringing, which seems to happen with skirts and brims (this is my first brim) and a bit of under extrusion in the center. But those are probably concerns fit for a separate question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13883" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2019-01-08T15:33:20.673" LastActivityDate="2019-01-08T21:15:57.933" Title="Bed too close to nozzle?" Tags="|troubleshooting|adhesion|creality-cr-10|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7919" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7918" CreationDate="2019-01-08T14:55:43.560" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;No&lt;/strong&gt;, the &lt;strong&gt;bed does not look too close to the nozzle&lt;/strong&gt;, it could well be that it is &lt;strong&gt;too far&lt;/strong&gt; from the nozzle. However, the brim looks okay, but the method you follow is questionable. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using a feeler gauge of 0.2&amp;nbsp;mm is larger than the recommended paper method which is in the order of half that value (0.1&amp;nbsp;mm). You compensate this larger leveling gap with an over-extrusion of 130&amp;nbsp;%. The preferred method is using a thinner feeler gauge or a sheet of paper without over-extrusion. The reasoning is that if you have a 0.2&amp;nbsp;mm to start with, adding the first layer thickness (e.g. 0.2&amp;nbsp;mm) would imply that you are already starting at a 0.4&amp;nbsp;mm gap on your first layer. You now try to push out more filament to fill that gap (resulting in not really pressing the filament to the plate).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Furthermore, your tape does not look like it is laid down next to each other, it looks as though it is laid over each other. This creates an uneven bed surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finalizing, you should do whatever you do to get the filament to stick to the build plate, if it works for you, use it. If it doesn't produce viable prints, or you are not satisfied with the surface finish, change it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-01-08T18:35:33.810" LastActivityDate="2019-01-08T18:35:33.810" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7920" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7923" CreationDate="2019-01-08T15:28:58.513" Score="6" ViewCount="2706" Body="&lt;p&gt;After a brownout a print failed and it got the whole hotend covered in PLA. I am now in the process of replacing some parts on the hotend (one of the thermistor legs broke of) and also wanted to take the heater cartridge out. The problem is that the bolt that locks the heater cartridge is stuck and I am now afraid to strip the head.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a trick to remove the bolt with the smallest probability of stripping the head? Is it better to apply heat or not? Should I soak it in Acetone or some other solvent? etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12934" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2019-01-08T16:09:08.383" LastActivityDate="2021-10-17T23:29:43.333" Title="Heatercartridge bolt stuck" Tags="|pla|hotend|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7921" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7918" CreationDate="2019-01-08T15:32:23.797" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;After clarifying the printer type and specs, I have to go d'accord with 0scar's &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/7919/8884&quot;&gt;answer&lt;/a&gt; about the bed leveling thickness: try to go down to 0.1 mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;About the bed adhesion I have a couple of pieces of advice though:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Go with what works for you (Rule #1: Never change a &lt;em&gt;running&lt;/em&gt; system)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Try out the bare glass bed coated in...&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Gluestick left to dry a little (that is PVA!)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a super thin layer of Wood Glue (also PVA)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hairspray (also PVA)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;3D-Lac (PVA again)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When sticking with tape (pun!), lay it down side by side with no overlap. Wider tape is better.&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;try different brands of tape, I prefer the rougher surface tapes&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;don't fear to use your heatbed! 60°C is the common PLA print bed temperature.&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;if you can, take a thermosensor/thermometer and check what the temperature on top of the glass actually is: you might need to adjust the heater setting up to get a bed surface of 60°C.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastActivityDate="2019-01-08T15:32:23.797" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7922" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7920" CreationDate="2019-01-08T16:19:04.053" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Acetone will not dissolve PLA, there are other nasty solvents that do that, but it is not recommended to go that way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could apply 12&amp;nbsp;V (if the cartridge is 12&amp;nbsp;V that is) directly. As the thermistor does not work, you cannot use the printer board. You should take caution not to heat it too far or too hot, but from your experience with your own machine you should know approximately how long it takes to heat up the hotend to working temperature. E.g. start with a minute and try to pry off the lump of plastic with pliers. If you can reach the bolt/worm screw, try heating until you are able to insert the hex key or screw driver.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&amp;amp;source=web&amp;amp;rct=j&amp;amp;url=%23&amp;amp;ved=0ahUKEwj-p_qI5t7fAhVRDOwKHYUVD7QQxa8BCCYwAA&amp;amp;usg=AOvVaw0VTJzWxrN8ZFOD4xbU2nov&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;This video&lt;/a&gt; from Josef Prusa shows exactly what you need to do what is described above. The only difference is that you need to connect the heater element directly to the power supply as your thermistor is broken. So don't leave it on too long or you will bake the filament to carbonization, which is much harder to remove. Try to cycle it on/off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-01-08T18:33:41.753" LastActivityDate="2019-01-08T18:33:41.753" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7923" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7920" CreationDate="2019-01-08T16:24:15.490" Score="10" Body="&lt;h1&gt;Don't Panic!&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First of all, a printhead caked in PLA is usually not a death sentence, it is often a temporary setback. Let's start in steps!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Step 1: remove the extruder&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We want to work on the hotend, so we remove the extruder feed first. For direct drive, we unload it, then remove it depending on your printer, so the cooling of the hotend remains. For a Bowden, unload and, if possible, remove the Bowden tube from the cooling block. If not disconnect it from the extruder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Step 2: remove from the carriage&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now that we have the whole hotend assembly bared, we remove it from the carriage. Usually, it is 2 to 3 bolts, more if the cooling solution is mounted separately and has to be removed to access it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Step 3: remove the cool-end&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can, remove the cooling fins - we want to have the heatbreak to hold on to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Step 4: Clamp it up&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Take a fire-proof surface (ceramic tile!) and put down the hotend. Rig it up that it can't jump away, best with a small vise. &lt;strong&gt;Don't&lt;/strong&gt; bend the cables!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Step 5: Free the thermosensor&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's start to clean! If your cartridge still works, get 12V onto the heater and let the stuff melt a little. Use pliers and a scraping tool to clean the thermistor cartridge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you have no heat control &lt;strong&gt;only heat in short bursts&lt;/strong&gt; to prevent fire and destroying the cartridge too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As an alternative and if you can't get the cartridge to work, use a hot air gun or a hot-air soldering station. A soldering iron with a broad tip also works well to scrape off the plastic with controlled heat an as a scraper to remove large chunks.&#xA;If you use an external heat source, free the heater cartridge first and remove it, hoping that it is not also dead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As soon as you can, get the thermosensor out. If you run on the heater cartridge,  install a fresh Thermosensor, even into the goopy heater block, and wire it to the board to regain temperature control and use the board to provide the power.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Step 6: Finish cleaning&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I usually clean up the final stretch (and as far as I can: all steps) under board controlled heat:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Make sure that heater cartridge and thermosensor are installed well and working. Set the hotend to 170 to 180°C and do the last cleaning under the use of regulated temperatre.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Step 7: Do steps 1 to 4 in reverse order.&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Reassemble, following the steps backwards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Step 8: Hot Tighten!&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Heat the assembled hotend to 240°C, then tighten the nozzle against the heatbreak to ensure tightness. Let cool, done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Alternative&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Replacement/Upgrade!&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One could go down to step 3 and replace the hotend assembly (Heaterblock, Thermosensor, heatbreak, nozzle) with fresh parts and reassemble. This is much more expensive than reusing but cleaner and faster - if you need to print &lt;em&gt;now&lt;/em&gt;, you might want to keep one hotend assembly on hand as spare and clean the one replaced while the machine runs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;External heat sources&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As mentioned, a hot air gun or soldering iron can provide heat to remove the plastic caking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The soldering iron has the benefit of doubling as a scraping tool and providing localized heat, allowing to possibly free the thermosensor without unsoldering anything in it, and it won't melt the heater block.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A heat gun provides gentle, overall heating of the beater block, but needs extra care where the hot air is going - it can easily char wood and might remove the solder from the heater cartridge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A gas torch might be used to burn off any residue on a totally stripped heater block, but it also would be able to melt and deform an aluminium heater block! Do not use it on a still assembled heater block, or it will melt any solder in the heater cartridge and destroy it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In any case, working on a fireproof surface is mandatory!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Chemically cleaning (for non-PLA)&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PLA can be removed chemically, but the solvents are rather nasty and some take quite some time to work. Very toxic dichloromethane was used to make a solution of PLA to create thin layers used in &lt;a href=&quot;https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/abs/10.1002/app.38833&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this paper&lt;/a&gt;, and most other solvents the study mentions are at least &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/7866/8884&quot;&gt;equally nasty&lt;/a&gt;. The available working options - ethyl acetate and propylene carbonate - have high price tags associated with them. So chemically cleaning &lt;em&gt;PLA&lt;/em&gt; from cheap nozzles is not an &lt;em&gt;economically&lt;/em&gt; viable option. However, it is a viable option to use acetone if you have your hotend caked in &lt;em&gt;ABS&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:29:41.667" LastActivityDate="2019-09-14T09:11:59.477" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7924" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7867" CreationDate="2019-01-08T18:06:48.027" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Both @Oscar and @Trish have identified the problem in their answers. Upon further investigation, I believe I found the root of the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Monoprice Select V2 has what I think is an inherent design flaw with how its wires are routed. The wire can sometimes (1) get caught on the frame (when the y-axis is moving towards its maximum position), (2) get caught between the frame and the print bed preventing the y-axis from reaching the minimum position, and (3) it even hits the y-limit-switch sometimes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a backview of the printer where you can see problem (1) where the wire can get caught by the frame. You can also see the y-limit-switch and I saw first-hand when the wire bundle caught it, forcing another layer shift in my print.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nrbpL.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nrbpL.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For problem (1) above, I found this solution seems to help&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1218943&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;thingiverse link&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To resolve all of the wiring issues, you have to unwrap the wires and reroute them. People online say this voids the warranty.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The wire jamming doesn't always happen. But when you printer moves back and forth along the y-axis hundreds of times for a large print, there's a high probability it snags at some point. This is very frustrating after many hours of printing. And I'm thinking of getting another printer for this reason.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I should note that it looks like Monoprice's next version printer, the Monoprice Select Plus, doesn't seem like it would have this problem since the control unit is integrated and the wires don't seem like they would be in the way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13712" LastActivityDate="2019-01-08T18:06:48.027" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7925" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7908" CreationDate="2019-01-08T18:24:38.013" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;For really long Bowden tubes, some people use Teflon lubricant in a cleaner bead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Never used it myself, since I use a small tube my printer with the stepper on top of one of the Z axis steel rod mounting plates (Anet A8).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Off topic, but by cooking and being a vaper, I vouch that organic compounds leave gunky residues on hot surfaces/parts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10524" LastActivityDate="2019-01-08T18:24:38.013" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7926" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7914" CreationDate="2019-01-08T18:41:40.610" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you want to 3D print this, you could try post processing with some acrylic or fiber glass filler, and then use some stone texture spray paint like &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.amazon.co.uk/Plasti-kote-9444-400ml-Stone-Touch/dp/B001GU6HKU/ref=pd_aw_lpo_60_bs_img_2?_encoding=UTF8&amp;amp;psc=1&amp;amp;refRID=11SDZXMB4RXA3XX1GFAS&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this one&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: SLS printing will never be heat efficient, if that product (in your example image) is an electronic case, it was either machined or molded, and the finish is some sort of paint with a ruff or stone like finish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, you might be able to pull it of with air flow redesign, and as long as the temperature does not exceed the glass transition temperature of the thermoplastic or resin used, you should not face any deformations on the case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10524" LastEditorUserId="10524" LastEditDate="2019-01-08T22:04:32.237" LastActivityDate="2019-01-08T22:04:32.237" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7927" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5262" CreationDate="2019-01-08T19:50:27.833" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;For anyone having the same issue I found out it was due to a Z axis motor lock up because the pulley attached to it would get stuck under the bed. I found out because I tried to print again and it locked up completely and I had to pull it out with pliers. Just finished an 18 hour print to confirm&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9630" LastActivityDate="2019-01-08T19:50:27.833" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7928" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7805" CreationDate="2019-01-08T21:07:39.797" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You may want to do a search for &quot;photogrammetry&quot;.  This is software that uses many photos to build a 3D model.  Dr. Falkingham did a good review of free software on his blog:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://peterfalkingham.com/2016/09/14/trying-all-the-free-photogrammetry/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://peterfalkingham.com/2016/09/14/trying-all-the-free-photogrammetry/&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://peterfalkingham.com/2017/12/17/free-photogrammetry-software-review-2017/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://peterfalkingham.com/2017/12/17/free-photogrammetry-software-review-2017/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;His conclusion that works very well for me uses COLMAP to take the photos and build a point cloud, then OpenMVS to build and texture a mesh from the point cloud.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://colmap.github.io/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://colmap.github.io/&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/cdcseacave/openMVS/wiki/Usage&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://github.com/cdcseacave/openMVS/wiki/Usage&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have not used many commercial packages, but Pix4D has worked very well for me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.pix4d.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.pix4d.com/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope that gets you started.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12673" LastActivityDate="2019-01-08T21:07:39.797" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7929" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7918" CreationDate="2019-01-08T21:15:57.933" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I cannot stress enough how much purple glue stick helps with this exact problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had a cheap XYZ printer that I used nearly half a spool of filament on trying to align and get prints to stick. After ten hours straight of hair pulling and desperation, I smeared some purple glue stick across the build plate -- worked like a charm. Works great even just on bare glass, although I usually use blue tape underneath.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also had one of those cheap Monoprice MP Mini and a 3D Solutions Cube which both benefited greatly from the glue stick.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've had a few cheap printers that I carried with me for educational purposes in a backpack and I'm sure the alignment wasn't ideal, but the glue always made it work perfectly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Elmer's makes one, I picked up a 3 pack of cheap ones on Amazon with great success.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14152" LastActivityDate="2019-01-08T21:15:57.933" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7930" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7915" CreationDate="2019-01-09T00:26:23.220" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;That particular font is &lt;a href=&quot;https://fonts.google.com/specimen/Sarina&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Sarina Regular&lt;/a&gt; and is part of the Google Fonts collection. Just Google &quot;connected handwritten fonts&quot; to find more. Kimberly Geswein does a good selection of handwritten fonts. A lot of them are constant width, but most are unconnected.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3953" LastEditorUserId="3953" LastEditDate="2019-01-09T00:39:27.303" LastActivityDate="2019-01-09T00:39:27.303" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7931" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7934" CreationDate="2019-01-09T03:35:54.493" Score="3" ViewCount="3556" Body="&lt;p&gt;Today I was printing some parts and I got these burn marks at the corners:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/D8b3n.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/D8b3n.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;1&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the first time I see this on this printer (Anycubic I3 Mega). I was using more or less the same settings (in Cura) as always, although I was using a new roll of PLA from a brand I haven't used before.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was printing several parts in one job:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/p56Kp.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/p56Kp.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;2&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most of them are somewhat affected:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8MqTq.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8MqTq.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;3&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Printing temperature:    200 °C&#xA;Build Plate Temperature:  60 °C&#xA;Printing Speed:           60 mm/s&#xA;Travel speed:            200 mm/s&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10131" LastEditorUserId="10131" LastEditDate="2019-01-09T17:10:16.937" LastActivityDate="2020-12-02T08:19:03.567" Title="What causes burnt corners?" Tags="|print-quality|pla|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7932" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7931" CreationDate="2019-01-09T05:09:23.523" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are several possibilities:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Could be burnt material on the extruder getting dislodged when the head changes orientation on the corners,&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Could be that the extruder stays a bit too long on the corner,&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Could be that you have a bit of overextrusion and the material get burned as it stay in contact with the extruder for a bit too long.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12917" LastActivityDate="2019-01-09T05:09:23.523" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7933" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7931" CreationDate="2019-01-09T06:11:02.437" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Looks like overheating and insufficient airflow at the same time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Try to reduce the temperature of the nozzle by 5-10&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C and increase print part cooling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14121" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-01-09T07:30:18.897" LastActivityDate="2019-01-09T07:30:18.897" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7934" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7931" CreationDate="2019-01-09T06:52:46.750" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;In addition to &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/7933/5740&quot;&gt;this answer&lt;/a&gt; which addresses &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;what&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; is actually the cause (&lt;em&gt;but doesn't explain where the burnt corners come from&lt;/em&gt;), I've added some information &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;why&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; this is showing burnt corners.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You are printing PLA at a too high of a temperature and do not have sufficient print part cooling enabled (either in the slicer or limited by the fan duct design). The &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;higher the temperature the larger the shrinkage&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; of the filament is. When printing overhangs like the slanted models you print, the last deposited layer has less surface contact area with the previous layer and therefore the shrink stresses may overcome the adhering stresses (it is also more easily weakened by the heat input of the last layer). This results in curling up, especially in corners as the heat input comes from two sides. When the corners curl up, the change of hitting the sides of the nozzle increases. When the outside of the nozzle is covered in burnt filament, the curling corners may pick that up. This results as if the corners are actually burnt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-01-09T18:51:02.493" LastActivityDate="2019-01-09T18:51:02.493" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7936" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7931" CreationDate="2019-01-09T10:18:30.190" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are two problems here. One as was mentioned earlier is that your temperature is too high and the cooling is not sufficient. The fact that one corener is affected more than the other can point to non uniform cooling (try using a cooling shroud like: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2004629&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2004629&lt;/a&gt; for more uniform cooling)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another problem could be that your flow multiplier is off, this is often more noticeable in the corners. Try reducing the flow multiplier in your slicer settings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12934" LastActivityDate="2019-01-09T10:18:30.190" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7937" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5989" CreationDate="2019-01-10T08:50:59.833" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;The latest version of Ultimaker Cura can do that (version 3.6).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have built models made of different material in the same model.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How to do this is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Select your CUBE and select the icon &quot;Per Model Setting&quot; in left side menu.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;choice &quot;Normal model&quot;, select the following settings: Top/bottom thickness, wall thickness and infill percentage&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Very Important: all above settings must be set to 0!&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Select the model you desire to print and select the icon &quot;Per Model Setting&quot; in left side menu&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;choice &quot;Modify settings for overlap with other model&quot; and select the following settings: Top/bottom thickness, wall thickness and infill percentage&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Select the desired infill percentage and the wall top/bottom thickness for the portion you want print&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;slice the model&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: If you need to print supports, then in step 2 select &quot;Modify settings for infill of other models&quot; (instead of &quot;Normal Model&quot;), and in step 6 also select &quot;Add Support&quot; and any other support related parameters you may need. However, Cura needs at least one &quot;Normal Model&quot; to slice, so to fool it you need to also another Cube as &quot;Normal Model&quot; with the parameters of step 4 somewhere else in your build plate (it won't really print).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14163" LastEditorUserId="21120" LastEditDate="2020-05-08T07:47:52.170" LastActivityDate="2020-05-08T07:47:52.170" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7938" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7920" CreationDate="2019-01-10T09:16:41.940" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you use a brass heating block (which is a bit heavier than aluminum), you can first use a heat gun to soften the residues to remove the cartridge/sensor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After removing all electronics, you can use a gas torch and burn the residues off. However, the far best option would be to use a heat block made of stainless steel. I guess heat conductivity is anyway not very important on the hotend as long as the cartridge is powerful enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using a torch makes cleaning very fast. In five minutes you are typically done. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10847" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2019-01-10T12:07:35.073" LastActivityDate="2019-01-10T12:07:35.073" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7939" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2884" CreationDate="2019-01-10T10:58:30.993" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Russia, a common coating for an aluminum plate is masking paper tape. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Instead of ordinary glass, we often use a mirror, it is smoother.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hair spray, sugar syrup and beer are also used as adhesives. It is not joke - their residue is sticky and can be rinsed off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14121" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2019-01-10T11:18:07.407" LastActivityDate="2019-01-10T11:18:07.407" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7941" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7920" CreationDate="2019-01-10T14:52:11.800" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have just gone through this with an E3D v6 Aero hot end.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Working on the hot end while hot is the best way, but using the internal heater is filled with several problems:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The thermister may be broken&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The heater may be broken&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The electronics of the heating loop (sense, decide, control heater) may be broken&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The wires may be too short to make it easy to work on.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is best to remove the hot end and work on it on your bench -- not inside the printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Someone recommended a torch.  This is possible, but it is hard to control the heat with a torch.  The flame may be hot enough to melt the metals.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Instead, I use a hot air gun.  It gets hot enough, but the maximum temperature and the rate of heating is lower.  The heat source is more diffuse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had an immoveable thermister set screw, which responded well to heat.  When reassembling, the heater clamp screw was filled with some plastic which prevented me from clamping the heater while cold.  After heating, it screwed in easily.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't be afraid to strip the hot end down to the basic parts.  Probably you'll be doing it several times over the printer's life, and knowing how to fits together makes everything easier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2082" LastActivityDate="2019-01-10T14:52:11.800" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7942" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7845" CreationDate="2019-01-10T18:01:36.430" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was having problems formatting micro SD cards for my Monoprice Mini v2. I have some 256 MB cards tried formatting them FAT FAT32 etc, no luck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then I downloaded a program called &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.sdcard.org/downloads/formatter/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;SD Memory Card Formatter&lt;/a&gt; did the format on the card with this and the card is now readable in the printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14169" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-06-17T13:21:06.630" LastActivityDate="2019-06-17T13:21:06.630" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7943" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-01-11T01:35:02.860" Score="2" ViewCount="565" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been working on a printer project that basically is a 2D printer (dot matrix type). We are using solenoids as actuators to make impressions on the paper. We are now in the process of designing custom software. But a problem that we have encountered is that we have no idea how to design software as we are a bunch of beginners in this field.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An idea we are working on is based on position-acknowledge technique. In this technique the computer sends G-code to the controller. The controller after reaching the position defined in code sends an acknowledgement and the computer then sends the next signal. This is the model we are currently working on. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Can anyone suggest any other ideas to make this work? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is Our approach right? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do 3D printers work using same technique?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14172" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-04-28T22:43:16.637" LastActivityDate="2020-04-29T07:22:32.673" Title="How does a 3D printer software/firmware work" Tags="|marlin|diy-3d-printer|firmware|software|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7944" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7943" CreationDate="2019-01-11T05:15:03.767" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;3D printer firmware use gcode that is derived from CNC and no acknowledgment. They send movement commands to the stepper motors like &lt;code&gt;G1 X10 Y10&lt;/code&gt; to move the printhead 10 mm along the X and Y.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could use a ready 3D printer firmware like Marlin on a 3d printer board and use the X-axis or extruder output to couple to your solenoid, sending a &lt;code&gt;G1 Z0.1&lt;/code&gt; or &lt;code&gt;G1 E0.1&lt;/code&gt;, which will actuate it for a short time. You might even use E and Z on different solenoids.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastActivityDate="2019-01-11T05:15:03.767" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7945" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5445" CreationDate="2019-01-11T06:51:46.210" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the top left of your workspace (still inside the editor) you will have a dropdown, in that dropdown there is a folder called bodies, open that and select the body you want. You can then move the selected body.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4762" LastActivityDate="2019-01-11T06:51:46.210" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7946" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7943" CreationDate="2019-01-11T08:07:08.310" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are you interested in receiving the instructions correctly, or interested in how the instructions are executed by the hardware? This answer doesn't go into the software communication between controller board and software that sends the instruction from another software/hardware platform  (see &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/7947/&quot;&gt;this answer&lt;/a&gt;), this answer addresses the positioning/movement. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most of current 3D printers do not track the position of the print head. The software instructs the head to go somewhere, but it never checks if it actually arrives at that exact position. Problems like missing steps of the stepper or skipping notches on the belt are not detected and the printer will continue thinking it has reached the position.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Skipping of belts is a mechanical issue and should not occur (nor can be detected unless there are stepper steps missed), but skipping of steps is something that can be detected by certain type of stepper drivers (trinamic). Steppers do not use a feedback loop to check the final position. Servos, opposed to steppers, use a feedback loop, and as such are able to reach the position as instructed, but this comes a an increased cost, servo's are more expensive and hence not found in most of the &quot;cheaper&quot; 3D printing machines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is up to the designer of a 3D machine to choose the motors for the positioning system, if it is not highly loaded, you go for steppers without a feedback loop, or in higher loaded machines for servo's (basically steppers with some positioning electronics for the feedback). In case of a stepper you hope that it reaches the destination you tell it to go to, for a servo, you known that it reaches that exact position. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To get back on topic of your question, there is no feedback on reaching the position (you call this acknowledgement), you just send the G-codes sequentially or in a buffer to the printer electronics which executes the statements one at the time (this is done by the firmware, this &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/7947/5740&quot;&gt;this answer&lt;/a&gt; for replies of the machine on the code it receives). It is your choice of the hardware that actually determines whether this is executed like instructed. Do note that most machines are not highly loaded (the 3D printhead is not very heavy and &lt;em&gt;normally&lt;/em&gt; does not hit any obstruction in its path as Z advances) justifying the use of steppers without the need for feedback. CNC machines, certainly the larger ones, that position a highly loaded cutting tool need such a feedback loop as the positioning needs to be very exact. You need to consider the forces at play in your paper punch machine, but from my point of view, your machine does not seem to be highly loaded. In such a case you are not in need for a more expensive positioning system, nor the need for the processing of a return/feedback signal in your custom software.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-01-11T12:22:17.847" LastActivityDate="2019-01-11T12:22:17.847" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7947" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7943" CreationDate="2019-01-11T09:48:58.827" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You appear to be asking about rate-limiting the stream of G-code provided by the computer, but some more context in your question will help if this is not the case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Printers tend to work in two ways.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Read G-code from local storage as a text file. Here, the parser/control engine is in full control.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Stream G-code over a serial port using an 'ack' handshake.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reference for G-code used in 3D printing is the &lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#Replies_from_the_RepRap_machine_to_the_host_computer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;RepRap Wiki&lt;/a&gt;. Here you will find responses such as &lt;code&gt;ok&lt;/code&gt; &lt;code&gt;resend&lt;/code&gt; and &lt;code&gt;fatal&lt;/code&gt;, these indicate when a previous command is processed and something else can be sent, if the previous message was identified as corrupt, or if recovery is impossible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The basic rule for this style of handshake is that after every host to slave transaction, the host &lt;strong&gt;must&lt;/strong&gt; wait for some response before sending another transaction. The slave could send either ACK responses, or other asynchronous transactions if you can design the system to avoid or not care about overrun in the slave to host direction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When designing a handshake like this, you can consider all possible ways for something to go wrong (assume the interface is imperfect). How can you handle a request being missed and no ACK ever? When there is a timeout, can you make a 'benign' request to see if the printer is still connected, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4927" LastActivityDate="2019-01-11T09:48:58.827" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7950" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-01-11T16:04:26.323" Score="3" ViewCount="16161" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an Anycubic Delta with a Trigorilla board. I have swapped out the A4988 drivers for DRV8825.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Currently, I am assuming it is using the A4988 drivers as the steppers are making a quiet growling noise. Kinda like a grating, coarse hum.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I put the A4988 back in they are as smooth as always.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Where do I tell Marlin 2.0 that the assigned board has the DRV8825 drivers?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11165" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-01-12T15:11:06.743" LastActivityDate="2020-11-29T16:28:46.757" Title="Marlin 2.0 - set stepper drivers?" Tags="|marlin|stepper-driver|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7952" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-01-11T23:08:59.233" Score="2" ViewCount="1945" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I've had my CR-10 Mini for some months now, and I've been continually having strange problems with bed leveling. Basically, after leveling the bed and printing a part, the bed is no longer leveled for printing again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just now, I auto-homed, leveled the bed to where there was a pretty good amount of friction between the nozzle and a piece of paper, and started a print. The first layer didn't look like it was getting squished just that little bit that it should be, so I stopped the print, auto-homed again and checked the leveling with the paper. Low and behold, there was &lt;strong&gt;no friction at all&lt;/strong&gt; between the nozzle and the paper. I re-leveled again and restarted the print, and then the first layer went down OK.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So what I'd like to know is why the heck am I having so many leveling problems?!? I've checked to make sure all my set screws are tight, my belts properly tensioned, and the rollers on the bed adjusted to slide smoothly but still have a good amount of grab. Help?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12458" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-01-14T13:53:53.643" LastActivityDate="2019-03-31T00:58:51.677" Title="Problems with bed leveling of Creality CR-10 Mini" Tags="|bed-leveling|creality-cr-10|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7953" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-01-12T07:43:59.560" Score="2" ViewCount="2440" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can launch Cura with no issues, it runs fine. I can import objects and change settings, but when I click 'slice' it doesn't even show a progress bar on 3.6.0 and on v4 it shows a progress bar but there's never any progress.&#xA;I've looked in %appdata%\cura\4.0\cura.log and it just stops at an entry like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;2019-01-11 20:38:46,714 - DEBUG - [MainThread] CuraEngineBackend.CuraEngineBackend._onStartSliceCompleted [430]: Sending slice message took 0.7397589683532715 seconds&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I looked in task manager and the system idle process has &gt;95% cpu (cpu is almost completely idle), and like I said I can use Cura just fine (no stuttering when I rotate objects).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14186" LastActivityDate="2019-01-12T07:43:59.560" Title="Cura doesn't slice" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7954" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7953" CreationDate="2019-01-12T07:43:59.560" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The culprit was ZoneAlarm firewall.&#xA;Cura runs and talks to another executable (CuraEngine.exe) for slicing, and ZoneAlarm never asked me whether CuraEngine should have the access it needed, so it got blocked.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are the steps I took to fix it:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Open ZoneAlarm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;click the firewall tab&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;click where it says &quot;X programs secured&quot;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;under &quot;View Programs&quot; you'll see a bunch of program names. It takes a while for my list to populate, you may have to wait a minute here.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Find the entry for cura.exe (you can order them by alpha) and set &quot;Outbound Trusted&quot; to Allow&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Find the entry for &quot;Slicing engine for Cura&quot; (that's how CuraEngine.exe is listed). Set &quot;Outbound Internet&quot; to &quot;Allow&quot; and set &quot;Inbound Trusted&quot; to &quot;Allow&quot; (this will implicitly set &quot;Outbound Trusted&quot; to &quot;Allow&quot; as well).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Click &quot;OK&quot;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should be good to go. I didn't even have to restart Cura. I just hit 'cancel' on that slice and then clicked 'slice' again and it worked.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From my testing, the settings in 5. and 6. are the minimum you can allow and still get it to work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14186" LastActivityDate="2019-01-12T07:43:59.560" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7955" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-01-12T11:23:17.693" Score="2" ViewCount="371" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a DIY 3D printer that uses a probe as z min limit and bilinear bed leveling. The problem is that bed leveling compensation sometimes doesn't work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is in my starting scripts in Simplify3d:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&#xA;M106 S200&#xA;G28&#xA;G29&#xA;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Upon printing, it turns the fan on, home all axes and bed leveling is done perfectly but &lt;strong&gt;sometimes&lt;/strong&gt; when I start printing, Z-axis compensation doesn't work. It's random, often when I restart my PC it fixes the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13700" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-01-14T11:15:18.813" LastActivityDate="2019-01-14T11:15:18.813" Title="Bed leveling compensation not working!" Tags="|heated-bed|diy-3d-printer|z-axis|troubleshooting|bed-leveling|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2019-01-18T14:05:14.617" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7956" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7913" CreationDate="2019-01-12T11:43:09.607" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Without the images of how you connected the endstops, the best guess for your problem is that the endstops cause a short circuit, once pressed, the microprocessor trips and shuts down. If you provide more information, other people may even add better answers based on your added information.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;E.g. how is everything connected at both sides of the cable (board and endstop), does the message occur when you press an endstop, maybe it is even wise to add a link to your configuration files. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-01-14T13:45:27.350" LastActivityDate="2019-01-14T13:45:27.350" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7957" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7958" CreationDate="2019-01-12T12:51:04.407" Score="2" ViewCount="1394" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I'm printing with my Chromatik filament white, 1.75 mm in diameter, I observe a gap between the infill and the walls (see picture).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Everywhere on the web I can find explanations for this kind of problem (apparently it's the symptom of loose belts), but I have this problem for &lt;strong&gt;this filament only&lt;/strong&gt;. I have the filaments Chromatik electric blue and Octofiber black and I don't have this issue with them. I tried to increase the temperature by ~10&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C, but it didn't have much effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Have you ever seen that guys? I repeat, it's with &lt;strong&gt;this filament only&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vX225.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vX225.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Print showing infill and wall not touching&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14188" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-01-12T13:37:41.743" LastActivityDate="2019-01-12T13:46:40.153" Title="Gap between infill and walls for one filament only" Tags="|filament|infill|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7958" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7957" CreationDate="2019-01-12T13:46:40.153" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have observed similar issues between walls, not necessarily between the infill and the walls.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is most likely that the viscosity of this filament is way different (less fluid) than the other filaments you print. Not only mechanical issues (to be precise: inaccurate positioning e.g. caused by loose belts) could play a part in this, but also printing speed. A more viscous filament needs more pressure and time to get the filament through the nozzle. This is exactly what happened in my case, because of different wall speed line settings (inner and outer), the filament did not flow fast enough leading to under extrusion. In your case you probably also have a higher infill than wall speed, so lowering your infill speed may mitigate your problem. Also, most slicers have an option to define the overlap between the infill and the perimeters/walls, you could also increase that for this filament.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2019-01-12T13:46:40.153" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7959" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7950" CreationDate="2019-01-12T15:10:16.307" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/blob/bugfix-2.0.x/Marlin/Configuration.h&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;configuration.h&lt;/a&gt; file of &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/tree/bugfix-2.0.x/Marlin&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Marlin 2.0.x&lt;/a&gt; you can define which stepper driver type is used to drive the stepper in the &lt;code&gt;Stepper Drivers&lt;/code&gt; section.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can choose to use the following constants from the array to configure the correct driver:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;['A4988', 'A5984', 'DRV8825', 'LV8729', 'L6470', 'TB6560', 'TB6600', 'TMC2100', 'TMC2130', 'TMC2130_STANDALONE', 'TMC2208', 'TMC2208_STANDALONE', 'TMC26X', 'TMC26X_STANDALONE', 'TMC2660', 'TMC2660_STANDALONE', 'TMC5130', 'TMC5130_STANDALONE']&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And update the section that links the steppers to the stepper driver by updating the following section of the &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/blob/bugfix-2.0.x/Marlin/Configuration.h&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;configuration.h&lt;/a&gt; file.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&#xA;//#define X_DRIVER_TYPE  A4988&#xA;//#define Y_DRIVER_TYPE  A4988&#xA;//#define Z_DRIVER_TYPE  A4988&#xA;//...&#xA;//#define E0_DRIVER_TYPE A4988&#xA;//...&#xA;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;by removing the &lt;code&gt;//&lt;/code&gt; in front of the driver specification and update the constant of the correct stepper driver:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&#xA;#define X_DRIVER_TYPE  DRV8825&#xA;#define Y_DRIVER_TYPE  DRV8825&#xA;#define Z_DRIVER_TYPE  DRV8825&#xA;//...&#xA;#define E0_DRIVER_TYPE DRV8825&#xA;//...&#xA;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This results in the use of specific timings for the specific drivers. To be honest I have never set these constants when I used DRV8825 stepper drivers on my RUMBA board and my motors are operating smooth without these settings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What you do need to look out for is when you replace stepper drivers is whether the micro stepping jumper settings on the board are correct for your stepper driver! I needed to set the jumper switches in a certain position to enable the 1/32 micro stepping functionality for the DRV8825 drivers. Knowing that the maximum micro step for the A4988 is 1/16, you also need to look out for the steps/mm; with more micro steps, you need twice as many steps per mm when you go from 1/16 to 1/32; e.g.:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT   { 80, 80, 4000, 500 }&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;would need to be changed to:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT   { 160, 160, 8000, 1000 }&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, did you tune the new stepper drivers correctly? When you receive the stepper drivers, they are usually not tuned and the position of the potentiometer on the driver board is undefined! You need to calculate the correct &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$ V_{ref} $&lt;/span&gt; for your stepper driver in use for the specific stepper you have (max current that the stepper can handle). For DRV8825 stepper drivers, the maximum current is defined as:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$$ A_{max} = V_{ref} \times 2 $$&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, if you have a stepper motor rated for 1.4&amp;nbsp;A, you limit the current to 1.4&amp;nbsp;A by setting the reference voltage (&lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$ V_{ref} $&lt;/span&gt;) to 0.7&amp;nbsp;V. More details are found &lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/wiki/Pololu_stepper_driver_board&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-01-12T15:30:29.643" LastActivityDate="2019-01-12T15:30:29.643" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7960" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7964" CreationDate="2019-01-12T15:45:14.487" Score="6" ViewCount="4824" Body="&lt;p&gt;My ender3 came with a BuildTak-clone surface, and as I was a little too vigorous in getting the print off the bed (I had failed to level right and printed a bit too tight to the bed, resulting in SUPER strong adhesion), I needed to replace it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Peeling off the black was easy. The plastic sheet that held the glue was easy too... but how to clean up the bed to get the residue glue off and prepare for the new 3M sticker?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-12-10T09:01:43.700" LastActivityDate="2023-05-14T21:44:30.657" Title="How to clean up my build plate for a new build surface?" Tags="|heated-bed|replacement-parts|repair|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7961" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7960" CreationDate="2019-01-12T15:45:14.487" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cleaning up the aluminium build platform was rather easy in a three step process as I figured out:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Preparation&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Get the old bed-surface off and any film layers that stick to the original glue. Don't bother to try to scrape off the glue, it is wasted time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Solvent&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To remove the sticker's residue, I first tried heat and 70% isopropyl alcohol (aka isopropanol, 2-propanol), which was not very effective. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What did prove effective was nail-polish remover on the base of &lt;strong&gt;acetone&lt;/strong&gt;. It worked like a charm to turn the sticky film into easily removable, goopy clumps. With small doses and a lot of rubbing/massaging it into the residue and careful use of the scraper, all the glue was gone after about half to three-quarters of an hour of work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In subsequent replacement, I used &lt;strong&gt;paint thinner&lt;/strong&gt;, which is more effective in goopifying the glue and allowing to scrape it off much faster. 10 minutes max.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Cleanup&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After applying the generous amounts of nail polish remover, I thought that it might be best to get any of the additives that were meant to protect the skin off the bed - as well as the slight blue coloring - before applying the new tape. So I gave the aluminium a good wipe down with isopropanol.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In subsequent replacements I used ethanol 98 % to clean the bed before applying, just to make sure no fingerprints or glue residue creates bumps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Applying the new bed surface was easy afterwards, and after a quick bed leveling, the printer runs like a charm again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2020-05-04T19:13:36.207" LastActivityDate="2020-05-04T19:13:36.207" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7962" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7812" CreationDate="2019-01-12T17:16:32.233" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can print some of it but not all, as 3d printers can't print metal or silicon to make the boards and frame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14193" LastActivityDate="2019-01-12T17:16:32.233" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7963" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10169" CreationDate="2019-01-12T21:16:44.563" Score="3" ViewCount="376" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just switched to the Duet Wifi board (used MKS Gen L 1.0 before) and now small structures look terrible. From my observations the hot end moves correctly, but almost no filament gets extruded. On the other hand larger structures look very good. With the MKS board the exact same G-code worked fine.&#xA;After that I gradually disabled many features like coasting, wiping and even retractions altogether, the quality only improved by a tiny margin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Example print (the two towers should be cylinders):&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jE94g.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jE94g.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Example print&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additional information:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Printer: JGAurora A5&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Material: PETG&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Slicer: Simplify3D&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More info (edit):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hot end temperature: 225&amp;nbsp;°C (for the affected layers)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bed temperature: 60&amp;nbsp;°C (I corrected the thermistor data, it's equivalent to 70-75&amp;nbsp;°C on other JGAurora A5 printers)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Nozzle diameter: 0.4&amp;nbsp;mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Part cooling fan: 100% (improved cooler duct by Da Hai Zhu)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Print speed: 50&amp;nbsp;mm/s (50% for outline)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The cylinder is printed hollow because of my infill settings&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lubricant is fresh, belts are tightened, so there should be no mechanical issues&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14194" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2019-06-04T19:13:17.453" LastActivityDate="2019-06-04T19:13:17.453" Title="Small structures are deformed after switching to Duet Wifi" Tags="|print-quality|extrusion|troubleshooting|fdm|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7964" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7960" CreationDate="2019-01-13T05:57:46.057" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my experience, we deal with 3M™ Adhesive Transfer Tape 468MP; high-temperature glue residue. To remove the leftover glue from my Aluminium build plate I found that it works best if I apply &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Paint_thinner&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;paint thinner&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I ran out of acetone for one refurbishment so I tried thinner and white (cleaning) spirit; the latter option did not work well. However, thinner worked very well. I got a bottle of &quot;thinner&quot; at the hardware store's house brand and found it to be more aggressive stuff than turpentine or acetone. I had tried those latter 2 but found that &quot;thinner&quot; works best.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Putting the thinner fluid on paper cloth directly to clean the glue did not work well. I applied the thinner directly onto the glue (splash it on), waited for a while to let it soak in to weaken the bonds after which you can remove it with a spatula and kitchen paper towel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The exact contents of paint thinners are not always available but they contain various hydrocarbons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-03-06T19:15:22.217" LastActivityDate="2019-03-06T19:15:22.217" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7965" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7966" CreationDate="2019-01-13T21:55:11.213" Score="1" ViewCount="401" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Robo 3D R1+, and I'm using the default Simplify3D profile for it. When I finish a print, I notice that my X gantry is way out of level. The right side is visibly higher than the left side. So much so that it won't even auto-level on the next print. What that tells me is during the print, the Right z-axis is moving up faster than the left. It also ruins the print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do not believe this is a hardware issue, as when I use the Craftware slicer, it works properly (I tried the same model with both slicers). Is there a setting or something I need to adjust in Simplify3D to get this to print properly?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you would like to see the G-code for the CW and S3D models I was testing with, you can download them here:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://drive.google.com/file/d/18AgUz30uFjGnh6iU6_Lybo8kYQD1MK_h/view?usp=sharing&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;G-code download (Google drive)&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5579" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-01-15T07:15:16.770" LastActivityDate="2019-01-17T12:28:37.107" Title="Z-axes out of sync with Simplify3D" Tags="|z-axis|simplify3d|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7966" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7965" CreationDate="2019-01-14T07:16:51.667" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;What you are describing is not possible as a result of changing slicers, this must be an intermittent hardware issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;slicer has no knowledge of the hardware layout&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; of your machine (other than the build volume and gantry dimensions; if properly configured), it just creates slices of the model you present which are found in the G-code file as Z movements. In case multiple Z steppers are used to move the X gantry, these are usually driven by a single driver, but if they are separately controlled, even in the G-code file the instruction would be to move up Z in total, not per stepper. It is the &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;firmware of the 3D printer that translates this Z level in movement&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; for your 3D printer based on the layout of the machine and the firmware settings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The CraftWare G-code file does show some inconsistencies with respect to the Simplify3D file in that it does not use &lt;code&gt;G29&lt;/code&gt; and has a too large first layer height of 0.45&amp;nbsp;mm (this is larger than you nozzle diameter of 0.40&amp;nbsp;mm, you should always limit that to about 75&amp;nbsp;% of your nozzle diameter).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For an X gantry to become unlevel/skew, there must be a mechanical issue that is causing it to miss steps/prevent advancing at one side. It is possible that one of the shafts or lead screws has some more friction than the other (generally it is not a good idea to grease the screws as dirt easily stick to the grease, a light oil may be better suited). This is not uncommon for Prusa i3 clones and is usually fixed by resettling the leadscrew nut by loosening and tightening the screws which attach the nut to the X gantry idler. It is unclear if this is your problem here with this specific machine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To be fair, uneven displacement of any axis powered by 2 separate motors (driven by separate drivers) could be induced by the slicer when &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;unrealistic&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; high accelerations and incorrect hardware/electronic settings are employed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-01-17T12:28:37.107" LastActivityDate="2019-01-17T12:28:37.107" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7968" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7952" CreationDate="2019-01-14T14:05:03.353" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Creality CR-10 Mini is a &lt;strong&gt;portal printer&lt;/strong&gt; using a &lt;strong&gt;single Z lead screw at one side&lt;/strong&gt; of the portal to move the whole X axis gantry. This implies that the X gantry needs to be very stiff when raised and lowered from one side and also have a minimum of play on the rollers (especially on the lead screw driven side). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have seen many complaints from experience of people complaining that the gantry is not stiff enough, or that there is too much play on the rollers on either side of the gantry to result in a skew gantry. Consistent leveling is very hard on such machines. A colleague of me added an extra stepper (and split the original stepper connector) to have it raised and lowered from both sides. Do understand that this is also not optimal, missed steps on one of either sides can also cause the X gantry to become skew. A better solution is to create a belt driven extra lead screw that is powered by one stepper, you will not experience a skew gantry as the gantry is integrally moved.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-01-18T20:04:16.550" LastActivityDate="2019-01-18T20:04:16.550" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7970" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7482" CreationDate="2019-01-14T19:32:18.097" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Definition: &lt;strong&gt;Sparse layer fill&lt;/strong&gt; (called stuttering by the OP)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Why a sparsely filled support structure... (at the support bottom)&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Support structures are added by Ultimaker Cura as the first part of the layer before it progresses to the rest of the print object. The bottom part of the support structure is definitely showing under extrusion, as if there was not enough filament available to print the support solidly. Actually, that is exactly what is the problem, there is not enough filament available for printing as a result of a retraction and the following extrusion after movement of the filament. The bottom part of the support is most probably printed after &lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;the head stopped far from the support&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt; (end of the previous layer) while printing your object. This means that the filament needs to be retracted, the head moved to the support structure, filament extruded (de-retracted) and printing of the support structure starting. When retraction is not optimally tuned, the &lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;nozzle may not be primed correctly with filament and cause a sparsely printed support structure&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt;. A similar reasoning could apply to support structures being printed at the final stage of the layer (as long as there are large movements to the support structure requiring the activation of the retraction).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Why is the support better printed higher up...&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You see that when Z advances above the thickness of the right part of the print, the support structure is better printed. This could be caused by the fact that the head now doesn't need to move far from the last position of the print to the support structure, this doesn't require a retraction action.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;What to do to print better support structures...&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Try tune your retraction settings, see e.g. &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/7004/&quot;&gt;this answer&lt;/a&gt; shows an image of a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1159886&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;calibration print&lt;/a&gt; to determine the optimal settings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that you not only can play with the filament retraction settings (&lt;code&gt;Enable Retraction&lt;/code&gt;, &lt;code&gt;Retraction Speed&lt;/code&gt; and &lt;code&gt;Retraction Distance&lt;/code&gt;), the option called &lt;code&gt;Enable Coasting&lt;/code&gt; and &lt;code&gt;Coasting Volume&lt;/code&gt; can also be used to stop extruding while the printer head prints the rest of the object to use the over-pressure of the molten filament in the nozzle and finally &lt;code&gt;Retraction Extra Prime Amount&lt;/code&gt; can extrude some extra filament to prime the nozzle with some extra material so that the nozzle is optimally filled and ready for printing the support after the main print object. Also take care choosing the right &lt;code&gt;Support Speed&lt;/code&gt;, too fast will result in lower quality.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:29:41.667" LastActivityDate="2019-01-15T10:13:56.583" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7971" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-01-14T22:05:04.537" Score="5" ViewCount="1264" Body="&lt;p&gt;I understand how slicer programs create sets of closed-loop polygons to print on a layer-by-layer basis.  For a given closed loop polygon which needs to be printed, the tool path generator will know the coordinates and how those coordinates are connected to each other, such that traversing a set of segments in that order will bring the extruder head back to the first coordinate to complete the closed loop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is: By what mechanism does the tool path generator decide which direction to traverse the closed loop?  As it is a loop, that loop could be printed &quot;clockwise&quot; or &quot;counter-clockwise&quot;, as it were.  Any details, and links to further explanations of how some of the big-name slicer programs determine this is much appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1414" LastEditorUserId="1414" LastEditDate="2019-01-14T23:15:28.730" LastActivityDate="2019-01-15T23:50:43.617" Title="How Do Tool Path Algorithms Decide Which Direction to Print a Closed-Loop Polygon" Tags="|slicing|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7972" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7971" CreationDate="2019-01-14T22:52:38.150" Score="4" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Math&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In math, there is a way how a path is to be followed, and that is usually counterclockwise:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming a perimeter path of a circle with &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$r=1$&lt;/span&gt; around &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$(2,2)$&lt;/span&gt;, then the  path can be defined as &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$f(p)={{\cos(p)+2}\choose{\sin(p)+2}}$&lt;/span&gt; - where &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$p$&lt;/span&gt; is the path parameter, in this case an angle of 0 to 360°, and just increasing the angle rotates right hand around. If we had the same path but a different starting point, a shift by &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$\theta$&lt;/span&gt;, then the path would read &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$f(p)={{\cos(p+\theta)+2}\choose{\sin(p+\theta)+2}}$&lt;/span&gt;. So math is usually &lt;em&gt;counterclockwise&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Slicers&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Every slicer is applying math. As far as I can tell, any Slicer generates a perimeter path, which is always performed in the same way if sliced with the same settings. For one case look at this:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nSlg7.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nSlg7.png&quot; alt=&quot;5 seconds of print sliced in cura&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;Counterclockwise starting from a 7 o clock position in this case. However, other slicers or other objects on the printbed might use other engines, thus doing it not that way. They might go clockwise since solving a path with &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$p=0°\to360°$&lt;/span&gt; and solving it &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$p=360°\to0°$&lt;/span&gt; results in producing the exact same print, just opposed print direction of the perimeter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As long as the perimeter of an object is solved as being done as one closed loop, the perimeter will need to have just one, prescribed direction. This direction will be clockwise or counterclockwise depending on how the slicer exactly solves its calculations. Since both directions are equally valid, it is a programmer's decision. A programmer might even prescribe clockwise or counterclockwise solution based on any factor they wanted. They might use layer number (for alternating directions) or a user setting or even an RNG, if they wanted to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other hand, how the memory is operated and written can also result in the path and the math looking differently. Two examples:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Solving the path correctly counterclockwise and putting the slicing into a FILO memory, resulting in a clockwise operation starting from the last solved point.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Solving counterclockwise and saving into FIFO, running counterclockwise.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Conclusion&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Slicers for 3D printing have a hard-coded way to choose the direction that is followed when producing G-code. Any and all perimeters will be printed, starting from some arbitrary point, into that direction. In the end, it is a choice of the &lt;em&gt;programmer&lt;/em&gt; of the slicing engine that determines if the path is to be run down &amp;quot;forward&amp;quot; or &amp;quot;backward&amp;quot; in mathematical sense.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Addendum&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Slicers are derived from CAM programming. CAM - computer assisted machining - takes into account one more thing when solving the tool path that is not relevant to a 3D printer: The direction of the fluting of the tool. In fact, this one will determine into which direction the path will give a better cut and changing the fluting should swap the path direction to ensure best results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:29:41.667" LastActivityDate="2019-01-15T23:50:43.617" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7975" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-01-15T03:24:32.830" Score="2" ViewCount="16610" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to print this &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2213410&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;heat tower calibration test&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The instructions say to change the temperature every 25 layers. It also tells me to use G-Code command &lt;code&gt;M104 Sxxx&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, is there a way to specify this command using Ultimaker Cura?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If not, how do I do so in the G-code file? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I see that the G-code file is just a plain text file with a command per line presumably. Do I just insert &lt;code&gt;M104 S225&lt;/code&gt; at one point and then &lt;code&gt;M104 S220&lt;/code&gt;...? &#xA;If so, how do I know where the 25th layer is?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13712" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-01-16T06:59:18.713" LastActivityDate="2019-01-23T07:32:37.927" Title="How to change temperature every 25 layers (or 5 mm) in Ultimaker Cura or G-code?" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|g-code|calibration|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2019-01-16T22:32:29.907" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7976" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7975" CreationDate="2019-01-15T05:29:11.923" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Every time you see a Z movement that matches the layer height (eg. 0.20&amp;nbsp;mm) you can assume that is the end/start of one &quot;layer&quot;.&#xA;It should have a line like:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;;Layer count: 17&#xA;;LAYER:0.  ; mine has this as the first layer&#xA;M107&#xA;G0 F2400 X67.175 Y61.730 Z0.250. ;  moves to Z0.250 mm for the first layer, with layer thickness 0.25 mm&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then later:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;;LAYER:1&#xA;M106 S255&#xA;G0 F2400 X78.078 Y69.627 Z0.550 ; 2nd layer.&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So search for &quot;Z&quot; or &quot;Layer&quot; and once you've seen 25 of these &quot;small&quot; movements (comparing to previous Z movement?), insert your line of code at the end of the layer commands.  Don't confuse it with large Z-movements, that may correspond to move up/retract filaments.&#xA;Depending on your goals for the print, maybe you also want to insert a wait time - say a minute or two for the new temp to stabilize?  Here is the line for that:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;G4 P200  ;  Sit still doing nothing for 200 milliseconds.&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2383" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-01-23T07:32:37.927" LastActivityDate="2019-01-23T07:32:37.927" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7977" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-01-15T12:36:46.673" Score="3" ViewCount="2218" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there any way Marlin Firmware supports G-code that can make a pin &quot;high&quot; and keep it at that state for a period of time specified? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have made a machine, which runs on Marlin Firmware, that is a mould forming tool, that would make a mould into a powder, then another tool would come over this mould and dispense some liquid in it. I have a custom GUI to move the tools to given coordinates, press a mould, position the second tool over the mould. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For dispensing liquid I'm thinking about buying a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.dosieren.de/en/products/dispensing-valves/diaphragm/dv-5625-t/diaphragm-valve-dv-5625-t&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;diaphragm valve&lt;/a&gt;. I've downloaded the user manual for it. As per the documentation, when compressed air is given to valve it will lift diaphragm and will start dispensing. The amount of liquid it dispenses depends on the how long the valve is opened. So I'm thinking about using a relay to turn a solenoid valve &lt;code&gt;ON&lt;/code&gt; and &lt;code&gt;OFF&lt;/code&gt; to supply air to the valve. To turn the relay &lt;code&gt;ON&lt;/code&gt; I need to make a certain GPIO pin &quot;high&quot;. Is there any way I can do this in Marlin Firmware? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10670" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-01-15T14:59:41.287" LastActivityDate="2019-01-15T15:03:18.263" Title="Marlin: Making any GPIO pin HIGH for a given time" Tags="|marlin|g-code|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7978" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7977" CreationDate="2019-01-15T13:39:05.003" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;As explained in the comments by Tom, you can set any port directly from G-code using the &lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#M42:_Switch_I.2FO_pin&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;code&gt;M42&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/a&gt; command. To set pin &lt;code&gt;22&lt;/code&gt; &quot;high&quot;, you need to call &lt;code&gt;M42 P22 S255&lt;/code&gt;. There is no parameter to add time to the command, so you need to add that yourself using &lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#G4:_Dwell&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;code&gt;G4&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/a&gt; (dwell or pause) to specify how long the printer needs to wait for the next instruction, e.g.:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;M42 P22 S255 ; Activate solenoid/relay&#xA;G4 P2000     ; Dwell/pause for 2000 milliseconds (2 seconds)&#xA;M42 P22 S0   ; Deactivate solenoid/relay&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As an alternative, you could use the existing fan if that fan is unused in your machine (or add an &quot;extra fan&quot; in the firmware and send the value 255 to that fan). To use the existing fan:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;M106 S255 ; Activate solenoid/relay&#xA;G4 P2000  ; Dwell/pause for 2000 milliseconds (2 seconds)&#xA;M107      ; Deactivate solenoid/relay&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How you add an extra fan is already described (for a specific RAMPS board) in &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/6536/5740&quot;&gt;this answer&lt;/a&gt;. However, the answer is valid for other boards as well, as long as you have exposed pins you have access to (or if you can solder directly to open pins), you can use the described technique. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The G-code to activate the &quot;extra fan&quot; (solenoid) is &lt;code&gt;M106 P1 S255&lt;/code&gt; disabling would be &lt;code&gt;M107 P1&lt;/code&gt;. Note that there is an option/parameter to add time (&lt;code&gt;Bnnn&lt;/code&gt; Blip time - fan will be run at full PWM for this number of seconds when started from standstill) to the &lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#M106:_Fan_On&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;code&gt;M106&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/a&gt; command, but that is only implemented in RepRapFirmware. An alternative is to use &lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#G4:_Dwell&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;code&gt;G4&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/a&gt; (dwell or pause) to specify how long the printer needs to wait for the next instruction (&lt;code&gt;M107&lt;/code&gt;) is being parsed, e.g.:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;M106 P1 S255 ; Activate solenoid/relay&#xA;G4 P2000     ; Dwell/pause for 2000 milliseconds (2 seconds)&#xA;M107 P1      ; Deactivate solenoid/relay&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-01-15T15:03:18.263" LastActivityDate="2019-01-15T15:03:18.263" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7979" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7980" CreationDate="2019-01-15T18:45:45.133" Score="2" ViewCount="832" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Printer:&lt;/strong&gt; Anet A6&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm gaving some trouble with a loose hot end. I was trying to peel of some PLA when I noticed the whole thing was kinda loose. I could pull it out very easy.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XHfEW.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XHfEW.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Loose hot end&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I tried to put it back, but it's verry loose and I don't know what exactly is wrong.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VE753.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VE753.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Put it back in&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure if I broke something, or doing something wrong. Does anyone know how to fix this or do I need a new extruder or hot-end?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Kind regards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Update:&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As Trish said in the accepted answer, the heatbreak is broken. When I've opened the extruder it became more clear:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Dyssw.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Dyssw.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fjqKp.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fjqKp.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm happy cause this is a fix for about 10 euro.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14218" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2019-08-31T08:21:22.060" LastActivityDate="2019-08-31T08:21:22.060" Title="Extruder get loose" Tags="|pla|hotend|anet-a6|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7980" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7979" CreationDate="2019-01-15T18:53:21.757" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am sorry to inform you, but your picture looks like your hotend has a broken heatbreak. The heatbreak is the screw that connects the heater block with he coldend.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your first picture clearly shows that the tp 2 or 3 windings of the screw are ripped off. Probably from tightening the nut against the codend carriage and this way applying tremendous force - the lower picture hints that it was tightened far too strong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You are lucky however, as replacement heatbreaks are easy to come by and cheap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastActivityDate="2019-01-15T18:53:21.757" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7981" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-01-15T19:23:05.987" Score="2" ViewCount="312" Body="&lt;p&gt;I flashed the TH3D unified firmware (R2.7) yesterday and so far everything works. I printed the 20&amp;nbsp;mm cube using the same G-code file I used for my very first print ever. However, with TH3D firmware I noticed that the print head was ridiculously fast compared to the previous firmware. The new cube has layer shifting and more noticeable ghosting so I know it's not just my imagination/faulty memory. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The slicer should have everything moving at 60&amp;nbsp;mm/s but I feel like the printer is going like 80+&amp;nbsp;mm/s.  I only uncommented my printer model and a couple of features of the firmware; nothing involving speed (mainly the mesh bed leveling). Is it possible that the new firmware thinks 60&amp;nbsp;mm/s is a different speed than the original?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Note: This question isn't about print quality. While the cube had flaws, it was just testing that the printer would actually print. And, of course, I can just dial things down. This question's scope is just about the input of the G-code and the output of an actual speed of printer head facilitated by the firmware.&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13883" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-01-16T06:33:38.840" LastActivityDate="2019-03-22T20:33:40.567" Title="Do firmware updates affect print speeds?" Tags="|firmware|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7982" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7996" CreationDate="2019-01-15T19:39:01.503" Score="2" ViewCount="5536" Body="&lt;p&gt;Printer: Monoprice Select V2.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've done several prints already and swapped out filaments many times but in my most recent swap, I can't feed my PLA through any more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I first preheat my extruder for PLA temps (185&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C). Then I press the plastic thingy to allow me to push as much of the filament into the hole as possible. Then I adjust my extruder position to try to suck it in. Usually after a few mm, I start to see the filament come out of the extruder and I also feel a pull on the filament from the top. But nothing is happening now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, if I adjust the extruder position in the opposite direction, it eventually pushes the filament back up and out, so I guess the &quot;stepper motor&quot; (is that what it's called?) is working (at least in one direction).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm getting ready to open the extruder module up to see what's going on, but wanted to see if anyone had any simple ideas for me to try before I unscrew anything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13712" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-12-10T06:07:15.913" LastActivityDate="2020-05-31T06:57:28.500" Title="Why won't my filament feed through the extruder anymore?" Tags="|extruder|change-filament|monoprice-maker-select|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7983" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7971" CreationDate="2019-01-15T19:54:48.083" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;While &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/7972/8884&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; answer makes a valid attempt at answering the question, it is based on personal experience.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I went to the literature and directly to the source code in Cura to find the answer.  In the academic article &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;https://link.springer.com/article/10.1007/s00170-012-4706-y&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Identifying the Directions of a Set of 2D Contours for Additive Manufacturing Process Planning&lt;/a&gt;&quot;, Volpato et al. describe several methods for identifying the arbitrary directions of each contour in each layer, and additionally identifying which contours were &quot;internal&quot; and which were &quot;external&quot;.  I quote from the paper:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The information regarding contour&#xA;  direction, which is either clockwise (CW — internal) or&#xA;  counterclockwise (CCW — external), is needed for path&#xA;  planning for material processing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They go on to explain the importance of identifying which contours are external, and which are internal, such that the path planning algorithm can later determine where infill should be placed.  Infill is placed internal to any external contours, and external to any internal contours.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;When the normal vectors in STL models&#xA;  are assumed to be correct, a simple way to identify whether&#xA;  a 2D contour is CW or CCW is to analyze the vector (cross)&#xA;  product between a normal vector and a vector obtained from&#xA;  two vertices of the facet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This assumes the slicer has already determined intersection points between slicing planes and the STL file, and has sorted those intersection points into closed-contours.  This initial intersection point gathering and contour construction leads to an arbitrary directionality:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;As any line segment of a contour can be the first in the&#xA;  sequence when the segments are connected, its orientation&#xA;  will dictate the direction of the contour. Hence, the 2D contours&#xA;  formed are classified randomly, and an external contour, for&#xA;  example, might be assigned a CW or CCW direction. Therefore, this step is unable to correctly identify the directions of the contours generated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The ray-tracing method, which is actually based on the&#xA;  point-in-polygon test, determines which contours are&#xA;  contained by others, and the orientation of each contour is&#xA;  then alternated between CCW and CW, the outermost contours being oriented CCW.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, the default directionality of a closed contour generated by a slicing program for FDM additive manufacturing turns out to be CCW based on cross products described above (and based on additional methods outlined in the paper).  Of course the standard directionality of a PRINTED contour does not HAVE to be this way, it appears to be a standard adopted by the AM community.  However, when a model produces contours inside of contours, the arbitrary directionality of those contours is determined, and then alternated from outside to inside, starting with CCW.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As confirmation, according to a simple comment in the CURA source code:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;/*!&#xA; * Outer polygons should be counter-clockwise,&#xA; * inner hole polygons should be clockwise.&#xA; * (When negative X is to the left and negative Y is downward.)&#xA; */&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1414" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2019-01-15T23:49:32.693" LastActivityDate="2019-01-15T23:49:32.693" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7984" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7982" CreationDate="2019-01-15T22:08:12.407" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Maybe some PLA is stuck in the throat above the heat break. Can you feed a very small wire all the way through it, or see light through the filament path?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;185 is a little on the cold side. I would suggest trying to feed at 195 before taking more drastic measures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12950" LastActivityDate="2019-01-15T22:08:12.407" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7985" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7981" CreationDate="2019-01-15T23:12:53.303" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, the limits are often subject to some &quot;interpretation&quot; in the limiting algorithms, even if they are totally unchanged values. Eg, your speed may remain higher around corners if the momentum calculations were optimized to take into account print head weight and extrusion instead of only per axis speed curves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12950" LastActivityDate="2019-01-15T23:12:53.303" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7987" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14880" CreationDate="2019-01-16T09:20:42.000" Score="4" ViewCount="3214" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been 3D printing for a while and I've noticed that, when printing small parts, my colored plastics (PLA, PLA+ and ABS) have better layer adhesion than black ones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Did you notice this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What could be the cause?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14228" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2019-01-18T13:49:06.827" LastActivityDate="2020-11-25T22:38:16.447" Title="Are black filaments more brittle?" Tags="|filament|filament-quality|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7988" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7987" CreationDate="2019-01-16T10:37:05.880" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not inherently.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are two things at work that might cause one color to test weaker than others even as its properties otherwise are functionally identical:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A bad print among good ones.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A bad roll among good ones.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's take a look at both, then do a little excursus into plastics and color.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;A bad print&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are probably thousands of reasons a print might fail, but bad layer bonding and squish-ability under torsion strongly hint to under extrusion. Now, under extrusion itself can be caused by a plethora of reasons: a clogged nozzle is equally as possible as too thinner diameter as is just a bad temperature. The last one is, in my opinion, the most likely culprit: filaments may look the same and feel the same and bond the same, but in different colors, they sometimes demand different print settings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As an example, I print most of my Kaisertech PLAs at 200°C, as that offers a quite good result for all of them. Yet when I started I had a white China PLA and a crystal clear PLA from the same manufacturer, both came from the same warehouse in the same shipment. The clear one is quite more brittle on the roll, but their starting-to-print temperature differs by 5°C - the white started to extrude at 180°C decently and printed ok at 195°C-200°C, while the clear needed only 175°C to start to be extrudeable and was really printable at 190°C. Yet recently I tried the same roll again to achieve fully clear prints, and with 210°C and lots of overextrusion, I managed to go almost solid-clear. Because of such experience, I suggest tweaking the settings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;A Bad Filament&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are several reasons why one roll might resulting in bad prints, but the most prominent are that the roll has &lt;em&gt;gone&lt;/em&gt; bad over bad storage. It might be stored too hot or too humid, making it brittle or bubble in the hotend. Aging under UV plays a role (it degrades PLA). And dimensional accuracy plays a role because it affects the whole roll of filament. This is why tests should always be performed with equally treated and measured samples to achieve comparability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Excursus: Plastics and color&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What gives a plastic its color? Pigments added to it. Now, pigments can be of varied kinds. Usually, they are embedded in the plastic (=not bonded to the carrier plastic), and the plastic polymer is often either inherently transparent(ish) or white. Let's take some examples to look at...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Yellow&lt;/strong&gt;. Yellow can be made from a lot of stuff but many yellow pigments react to UV light by decay more than other colors, leading to yellow to fade quickly in comparison to other colors. It has varied chemical compositions, often they can become quite complex.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Black&lt;/strong&gt;. Black pigment is typically the most simplistic coloration to achieve: pure powdered carbon is one of our most potent black pigments, and also one of the cheapest, making black plastic one of the most common plastics. In contrast to other colors, carbon can't fade. But the plastic around it decomposes and turns white, fading the color this way.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, most colorings are - in physical terms - sizeable. Some few to a couple dozen atoms, making them range in the &lt;em&gt;Angström&lt;/em&gt; (~Atom diameter) to &lt;em&gt;few nanometer&lt;/em&gt; area overall. However, even something as complex as &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$C_{22}H_{20}O_{13}$&lt;/span&gt; (Carmine) is relatively small compared to the &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$(C_3H_4O_2)_n$&lt;/span&gt; of &lt;strong&gt;Poly&lt;/strong&gt;LacticAcid, aka PLA. Poly tells us that n is at least 100, because shorter chains are &lt;em&gt;oligo&lt;/em&gt;mers, not &lt;em&gt;poly&lt;/em&gt;mers. In comparison, our red carmine pigment is more dense, much more compact in fact. As a result, a 100-chain of PLA is not just in the &lt;em&gt;Angstöm&lt;/em&gt; area but in the &lt;em&gt;dozen nanometer&lt;/em&gt; to &lt;em&gt;micrometer&lt;/em&gt; range - a magnitude of at least 2 larger. Unless we have a huge excess of pigment or a pigment that reacts with the plastic under heat, then the impact of it on the strength should be neglectible to the other fillers often used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:29:41.667" LastActivityDate="2019-01-16T11:25:41.637" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7989" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7991" CreationDate="2019-01-16T12:04:55.947" Score="5" ViewCount="56646" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm having a lot of difficulty removing support material without damaging the print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wUyNe.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Support material&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/chXd9.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Support marterial&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any tips/tricks to doing this or is it just a case of sanding, cutting, chopping and then cleaning it up as best I can?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Settings&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Printer: Monoprice Ultimate&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Filament Temp: 200 °C&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Plate Temp: 60 °C&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Material:  PLA&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Slicer:  Ultimaker Cura&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Placement:  Everywhere&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Angle:  20°&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pattern:  Concentric&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13813" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-12-10T06:04:27.630" LastActivityDate="2020-08-11T16:03:39.400" Title="Difficult to remove support material" Tags="|print-quality|support-structures|monoprice-maker-ultimate|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7990" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7982" CreationDate="2019-01-16T12:51:27.063" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Try turning the temperature up to 260&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C and pushing it through.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, cut of a few centimetres for I'm the end of the PLA in case the drive wheel isn't able to grab it due to a greasy bit of filament.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you get it all working, run cleaning filament throughout it and to a cold pull with it.  That removed an annoying but of grit from my Monoprice. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13813" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-01-16T13:01:42.203" LastActivityDate="2019-01-16T13:01:42.203" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7991" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7989" CreationDate="2019-01-16T13:06:37.613" Score="5" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Print/material specific settings&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are printing &lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;too hot with too less distance&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt;, &lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;the support just fuses to the print object&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt;. Extra cooling, lower print temperature and support distance should be in balance to create easy to remove support structures with respect to an acceptable print object surface. If temperature and cooling cannot be balanced to prevent fused support structures (e.g. for high temperature filament materials that cannot take too much cooling as that would result in less structural solid prints), there is an option in Cura to override the fan speed for the first layer above the support (&lt;code&gt;Fan Speed Override&lt;/code&gt;). If this fails to produce easy removable supports, you can resort to changing the support distance between the support and the print object.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Support settings&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most of the used slicers have an option to determine how much distance (in terms of layers) you want between your support and your product, you could add an extra layer as space to try out if that works better for you. E.g. the default Cura setting for &lt;code&gt;Support Bottom Distance&lt;/code&gt; (which is a sub-setting of &lt;code&gt;Support Z Distance&lt;/code&gt;) is the layer thickness specified in &lt;code&gt;Layer Height&lt;/code&gt;. If you have a layer height of 0.2 mm, the &lt;code&gt;Support Bottom Distance&lt;/code&gt; is also 0.2 mm. For the top, option &lt;code&gt;Support Top Distance&lt;/code&gt; this is two layer heights, so 0.4 mm in this example. These options are visible in the expert mode, you can search for them in the search box, see image below.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Why should you want air in between your part and the support?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll soon find out when you want to &lt;strong&gt;remove supports&lt;/strong&gt;, if no gap is used, the support will fuse to the print part. This is only interesting (no gap between print part and support structure) when you use a different filament for support like PVA or break-away filament; e.g. PVA dissolves in water in a dual nozzle printer setup (not that you can make the biggest part of the support except the top and bottom layer from the print object material, e.g. PLA for the main part of the support and PVA for the bottom and top layer: settings &lt;code&gt;First Layer Support Extruder&lt;/code&gt;, &lt;code&gt;Support Interface Extruder&lt;/code&gt;, &lt;code&gt;Support Roof Extruder&lt;/code&gt; and &lt;code&gt;Support Floor Extruder&lt;/code&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vnlrY.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vnlrY.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:29:41.667" LastActivityDate="2020-04-23T10:09:51.460" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7992" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7997" CreationDate="2019-01-16T13:39:33.697" Score="6" ViewCount="7579" Body="&lt;p&gt;I own a Creality CR-10 (using Ultimaker Cura for slicing) and I am experiencing terrible printing problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My problem:  I am not able to print anything that takes several hours to print. For parts printed in 30 minutes or so, my printer usually works.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The prints end up like this (unfinished and with a lot of stringing)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OyQrG.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OyQrG.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;fail&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This below is actually the best result I got so far.. (important note: there is no under extrusion during the print, it suddenly stops out of nowhere..)&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CGeTY.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CGeTY.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;fail2&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;(Although I have to use terrible retraction settings and need a lot of post processing because of all the stringing - you might have an answer for that too.. I just couldnt get the 3d printer to print parts properly with good retraction settings.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The problem is that at some point of the print, no more (PLA) material is extruded and the printer moves without actually printing anything. The first couple of layers usually work (you can see that in the images) but after wasting almost 600 grams of PLA, I am not able to find a solution myself.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;I have some suspicions:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could the problem be the angle, the PLA is inserted into the feeder? (so that it is almost a 90 degree bend)? The filament comes from a spool in the right hand side. But I dont think that this would cause such a problem..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7CHIe.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7CHIe.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Angle of inserted filament&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it a software problem? Here are all my cura settings (I even reduced the printing speed to 30mm/s at 205°C - still didnt work..)     :-(&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qKcvg.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qKcvg.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kXKwS.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kXKwS.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lpbKs.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lpbKs.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could the length of the bowden tube and it tangling up be a problem? (as you can see in the image below)&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2SoCm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2SoCm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;And annother important thing: The feeder always grinds into the filament (even at those low retraction settings) and it is always very hard to pull the filament out of the bowden after a failed print. Sometimes its almost impossible and i have to use heavy tools for it.. that should be the probelem&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oZnhq.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oZnhq.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I already did some atomic pulls, replaced the nozzle and switched the bowden tube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;I have a dream: My printer printing a part without any stringing and actually finishing the print. Please help me to achieve this dream..&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you for your help in advance. :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(and the filament I used, sorry for the bad quality of the pic)&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vzH9u.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vzH9u.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user12769" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-01-16T14:12:29.677" LastActivityDate="2019-01-18T06:56:15.347" Title="Filament extrusion always stops at some point during print" Tags="|print-quality|filament|pla|creality-cr-10|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7993" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7992" CreationDate="2019-01-16T14:26:09.070" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Stringing?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The stringing is explained by your relatively low retraction settings, 1.5&amp;nbsp;mm is not much for a Bowden setup. As do too high printing temperatures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Stopping mid printing?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What you are experiencing is called clogging, the extruder cannot push the filament through the hotend and cause the grinding you report. Clogging mid printing is usually caused by insufficient cooling (for the temperature you print at) of the cold end (causing heat creep; slowly increasing temperature of the heat break), especially all-metal hotend assemblies are notoriously known for this problem. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your Bowden tube does make a lot of kinks, maybe you can improve the path of the Bowden tube. Also if you are concerned about the sharp filament intake angle, you could print a filament guide:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4E5Gk.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4E5Gk.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Creality CR-10 extruder assembly with filament guide&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-01-16T16:13:39.723" LastActivityDate="2019-01-16T16:13:39.723" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7994" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7975" CreationDate="2019-01-16T16:14:02.657" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Under the Extensions menu in Ultimaker Cura, there's an option to add &lt;a href=&quot;https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/20442-post-processing-plugins&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;post-processing scripts&lt;/a&gt;. One of these is called TweakAtZ, and it allows you to override certain print settings when the printer reaches a certain Z height. Multiple overrides can be specified for different heights.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;TweakAtZ has been bundled with the standard Ultimaker Cura download for some time, but if your version doesn't have it, you can &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/Dim3nsioneer/Cura-Plugins/wiki/Tweak-At-Z-plugin&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;download it from GitHub&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9214" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-01-16T19:52:28.027" LastActivityDate="2019-01-16T19:52:28.027" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7996" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7982" CreationDate="2019-01-17T05:13:33.333" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I figured out the issue. I think I was shoving it in the wrong hole.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I took apart my extruder component. There's a good video on it &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/37df_c2hqYE?t=194&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&#xA;But basically, you just have to loosen the two bottom screws on the side fan like this:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KAO15.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KAO15.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I checked everything out first. I cleaned the extruder head with the included pin. I also shoved the filament through the heated area and filament came out ok.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uLz5D.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uLz5D.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But then I discovered the filament could go in the wrong way sometimes through the extruder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the correct way for the filament to go through. It should come out of that plastic hole.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/m0aaR.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/m0aaR.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But once in awhile, I accidentally pushed the filament through this way.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1BxoK.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1BxoK.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the filament was bent and I pushed the lever too hard, it would often find its way down the wrong path.&#xA;So I played around with how much force I should be holding down the  lever and how hard I should be pushing the filament through.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know if other 3D printer extruder feeders are designed this way, but seems error prone. Or maybe it's just me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13712" LastEditorUserId="13712" LastEditDate="2019-01-17T15:54:45.023" LastActivityDate="2019-01-17T15:54:45.023" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7997" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7992" CreationDate="2019-01-17T12:34:12.367" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've had a similar issue once. It was caused by very slight misconfiguration in filament feed rate (my printer tried to push through too much filament). While it was technically overextruding, I didn't realize that until I measured my extrusion lengths. Overextrusion could also contribute to stringing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you pull out the filament from your extruder after a print failure, does it have a thicker end? If so, it could be a sign of trying to push too much filament.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the left is the filament I pulled from the extruder after a normal print - you can see it only gets thinner and has a long end. In the middle is a very pathological case - that shouldn't happen unless something is very wrong. On the right is how the filament was when I had my extruder feed rate misconfigured - you can see the dents from gear biting too hard into it, and a slight bulge.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/smY0E.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/smY0E.png&quot; alt=&quot;different filament ends&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I think happened in my case, is that filament gets melted in the hotend, some of it gets pushed through the nozzle, the excess wells up into the heatbreak, where it solidifies and bonds to walls, causing blockage and difficulties pulling it out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As to how to fix it (if it's indeed the cause) - if you configured printer's firmware yourself, &lt;strong&gt;you may need to tweak steps/mm for the extruder&lt;/strong&gt;.&#xA;It looks like your printer runs Marlin firmware, which allows you to configure steps/mm from your LCD. You could also use PC software such as &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.pronterface.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Pronterface&lt;/a&gt; to connect to your printer and tweak steps/mm parameters (alongside with other things). Here's &lt;a href=&quot;http://3daddict.com/3d-printer-extruder-calibration-steps/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;a guide for checking and adjusting extruder steps/mm value&lt;/a&gt;. Though thick marker lines are not the best for measurement.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;You can also measure how much filament exits your bowden tube with calipers when you move it from printer LCD.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;If you don't want to mess around with firmware and steps/mm settings, you can &lt;strong&gt;adjust flow rate&lt;/strong&gt; in Cura, although in that case you'll have to experiment with it and waste even more filament. I'd advise you to check for other possible issues first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As the other answer has said, this could be caused by temperature creep too, with similar symptoms - filament melting in the heatbreak.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A long and bendy bowden tube could cause issues, but I'd expect underextrusion+grinding from that, whereas you don't see any underextrusion. Just to be sure, you could try pushing filament by hand (with other hand holding the lever on your extruder to release the filament) - it shouldn't take much force to move it all the way to extruder, and it shouldn't take much force to push it through the hotend either.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Yet another thing to check is whether your &lt;strong&gt;filament gets dented by the extruder gear&lt;/strong&gt; during normal print. Just insert it until the hotend without holding the lever on extruder and pull it out - it should be as smooth and round as it was before insertion. If it has dents from the extruder gear, that could also be the source of your problems. In that case, you'll need to reduce tension on your extruder spring, or if it's non-adjustable, then get another spring or shorten the existing one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As the last thing to check, does this happen with other filaments, especially single-color ones? Maybe this particular filament doesn't play nice with your hotend because of those black dot inclusions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, &lt;strong&gt;short list of things to check&lt;/strong&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Check extruder steps/mm&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Check force on pushing filament through bowden tube (by hand)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Check extruder gear tension&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Try another filament&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14237" LastActivityDate="2019-01-17T12:34:12.367" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7998" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="714" CreationDate="2019-01-17T14:16:58.600" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This basically &lt;strong&gt;depends on the torque your stepper can produce&lt;/strong&gt;! A high torque stepper &lt;em&gt;(the bigger the height of the stepper the more powerful the stepper)&lt;/em&gt; can push filament with much more force than a stepper motor with less torque. To increase the torque you employ a gear ratio to reduce the speed. As torque and speed are inversely proportional, a reduction by half in speed doubles the torque.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your stepper is powerful enough, you can use a direct drive (no gearing) to push the filament. However if you want that same stepper to move filament of larger diameter, you might not have enough torque to do so. This means that you will have to increase the torque by employing a gear reduction. Using direct drive extruders thus require high torque, and thus high mass stepper motors, this causes the mass of the hotend carriage to increase considerably. Using stepper motors with less torque (often called pancake steppers because of their reduced height) for such applications is often seen together with a gear reduction. A drawback of reducing speed is that you also decrease the maximum print speed ability or max speed filament retraction speed. To reduce the speed you can use a gear reduction using gears or use pulleys and belts. A major advantage of a belt reduction is that it operates without much less noise than using gears.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let us assume that you have a stepper that is powerful enough and want to extrude thicker diameter filament. The following guideline can be used to calculate the gear ratio. Also if you express the value in an actual torque, you could work your way back to calculate the gear reduction for a pancake stepper you would use to replace your current X-value torque motor, that is left as an exercise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;From 1.75 mm to 2.85 mm&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Under the assumption that the force that the nozzle exerts on the build plate (&lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$F_n$&lt;/span&gt;) is constant for different types of filament size, you would be able to calculate the ratio of force for the extruder (&lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$F_{e}$&lt;/span&gt;) and nozzle of any filament diameter using the pressure in the nozzle using:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$$ p=\frac{F}{A} $$&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Where, &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$p$&lt;/span&gt; is the pressure, &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$F$&lt;/span&gt; the force and &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$A$&lt;/span&gt; the area.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$$ p =\frac{F_e}{A_e}  = \frac{F_n}{A_n} \\&#xA;F_n=F_e\frac{A_e}{A_n}=F_{e_{1.75}}\frac{\frac{1}{4}\ \pi\ d_{1.75}^2}{\frac{1}{4}\ \pi\ d_{n}^2} = F_{e_{2.85}}\frac{\frac{1}{4}\ \pi\ d_{2.85}^2}{\frac{1}{4}\ \pi\ d_{n}^2} &#xA;$$&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Where &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$d$&lt;/span&gt; denotes a diameter of the nozzle or the filament. Subscripts &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$e$&lt;/span&gt; and &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$n$&lt;/span&gt; denote the extruder and the nozzle respectively.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that the force that is generated by the extruder is derived from the stepper torque &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$\tau$&lt;/span&gt; directly, or through a geared drive (gearing ratio &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$R_{gear}$&lt;/span&gt; ):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$$&#xA;\tau_{e} = R_{gear}\times\tau_{stepper}&#xA;$$&lt;/span&gt;&#xA;Note, a gear ratio of 1 denotes direct drive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The force would then be calculated by dividing the torque by the radius (&lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$r$&lt;/span&gt;) of the extruder gear:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$$&#xA;F=\frac{\tau_e}{r}&#xA;$$&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Combining equations gives us:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$$&#xA;\begin{align*} &#xA;&amp;amp;1.75\ {filament}\ \Rightarrow F_n=\left (\frac{1\times\tau_{stepper}}{r_{e_{1.75}}}\right )\frac{d_{1.75}^2}{d_{n}^2} \\&#xA;&amp;amp;2.85\ {filament}\ \Rightarrow F_n=\left (\frac{R_{gear}\times\tau_{stepper}}{r_{e_{2.85}}}\right )\frac{d_{2.85}^2}{d_{n}^2} &#xA;\end{align*}&#xA;$$&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which can be rewritten to:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$$&#xA;R_{gear} = \frac{d_{1.75}^2}{d_{n}^2} \times \frac{d_{n}^2}{d_{2.85}^2} \times \frac{r_{e_{2.85}}}{r_{e_{1.75}}}&#xA;$$&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that each &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$d_{n}^2$&lt;/span&gt; is applicable to the nozzle size of the extruder. Hence, for similar nozzle sizes, the &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$d_{n}^2$&lt;/span&gt; term cancels out:&#xA;&lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$$&#xA;R_{gear} = \frac{d_{1.75}^2}{d_{2.85}^2} \times \frac{r_{e_{2.85}}}{r_{e_{1.75}}}&#xA;$$&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This means that if you go from 1.75 mm to 2.85 mm filament, for the exact same extruder gear radius (which is not likely as you probably need a different extruder gear/hobbed bolt that can accommodate the larger diameter filament), the gear ratio is &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$1:2.65$&lt;/span&gt; and therefore you need to reduce the speed accordingly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason that you see different gearing ratios can not only be explained by differences in the extruder gear/hobbed bolt diameter differences, but also in stepper torque values.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For 3 mm filament the ratio will be in the order of &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$1:2.94$&lt;/span&gt; for equivalent extruder gear radii and reuse of the same stepper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A similar calculation shows that for a 0.2 mm nozzle on a 2.85 mm filament extruder a gearing ratio of &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$ 1:5.3$&lt;/span&gt; is required. This &amp;quot;extra room&amp;quot; for extra torque to fit smaller nozzles also explain the larger gear reductions. What is optimal is not only defined by the nozzle size and filament diameter but very dependent on the stepper motor and the torque it can produce. Gear reductions should be limited so that they do not minimize overall print speed or cause problems with retraction (this latter I experienced myself, a too high retraction speed caused the stepper to miss steps on my &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2897762&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;custom designed 1.75 mm to 2.85 mm bulldog extruder conversion&lt;/a&gt;. I'm using a &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$1:4$&lt;/span&gt; speed reduction to produce enough torque with a stepper that is normally used for direct drive (of 1.75 mm filament). Note that within the aluminium bulldog housing, a different sized extruder gear is used to accommodate the larger diameter filament:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rsT5R.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rsT5R.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Bulldog 1.75 to 2.85 mm conversation extruder&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/O1pm9.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/O1pm9.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Bulldog 1.75 to 2.85 mm conversation extruder&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:29:41.667" LastActivityDate="2019-09-04T21:17:10.450" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8000" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7989" CreationDate="2019-01-17T18:44:29.140" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Test out a couple different types and z distances. I've found that the 'lines' type on Cura turns out very well - they are generally easy to remove and leave few artifacts on the part. Some types of support I've found to be much more difficult to remove than others, I would recommend 'lines' or 'zig zag'. See the link at the bottom for all possible values.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Z distance&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Beyond switching over to 'lines' instead of 'concentric' this is the one that I've found has the most impact on the how easy it is to remove supports. You want this to be  as large as possible while still providing sufficient support. Do a couple test print, increasing this value until the detail start to get bad, then lower it just a bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Current link for Cura setting explanations&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/20422-cura-support-settings&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/20422-cura-support-settings&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14242" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:29:41.667" LastActivityDate="2020-04-23T10:11:19.587" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8001" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7987" CreationDate="2019-01-17T18:57:33.490" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your heading is about how brittle the material is, but the question is asking about layer adhesion. I'll go ahead and tackle the layer adhesion portion. There are many variables at play here but unless you are using two filaments fresh out of the box, I would guess moisture might be the issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Moisture&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The filaments pick up moisture as they are left out or even just store. I've tried to prevent it, but nothing seems to work. When this happens you generally need to run the same filament a bit hotter to get the same results as a new roll. Comparing a new roll to an old roll, or even two rolls of questionable quality, will result in slight changes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Bad Quality&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Filament quality goes a long ways to making sure the print comes out consistently. Dimensional sizing is the main one the gets thrown around, but once again, moisture may creep in if the manufacturer is questionable. I use Hatchbox mainly and have not had an issue on either of these fronts. Poor dimensional quality will cause either under or over extrusion which can make the layers appear worse and is impossible to fix without buying a new roll as the filament itself is the issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Color&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can color make a difference? Perhaps. I've wondered if black heats up quicker than white filament. I have gone through quite a bit of white and black PLA from the same manufacturer and so far have notice no major difference between the two.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Brittleness and Layer Adhesion&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't see how these two would have much to do with each other. There are too many variables between the heating and the cooling of the material for brittleness to have a major effect. For example, PLA is brittle but prints well. TPU is very flexible and prints well - it all depends on what your setup is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14242" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:29:41.667" LastActivityDate="2019-01-17T18:57:33.490" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8002" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-01-17T19:09:35.860" Score="1" ViewCount="228" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am in college and am doing a team competition to print PPSU filament, and get the best results. This is being put on by the Solvay company, who makes the material. Our team signed up and the university bought us an &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.intamsys.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Intamsys&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.intamsys.com/funmat-ht-3d-printer/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Funmat HT&lt;/a&gt; 3D Printer, which said it was capable of printing PPSU. However, the company doing the competition did not release the information that the bed plate must be a high temperature to avoid warping (Greater than 200 °C). However, our plate only reaches a temperature of 160. Does anyone know of any aftermarket heaters that would work with this printer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maximum temperatures according to Intamys: Chamber 90 °C, Magnetic Build Plate 160 °C, Extruder 450 °C&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14243" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2019-07-02T12:41:52.993" LastActivityDate="2019-07-05T08:56:32.653" Title="After market bed heater for Intamsys Funmat HT 3D Printer" Tags="|print-quality|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8005" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4307" CreationDate="2019-01-18T04:36:32.833" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Have you built a 3D printer before, or have much experience in electronics?  Building your own printer is &lt;em&gt;usually&lt;/em&gt; more expensive than purchasing a higher end low-grade consumer printer.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a few routes you can go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Creality Ender 3&lt;/strong&gt; &#xA;It's a good starting 3D printer around 200ish.  Just going to throw that out there first - as that is probably a far better route to think about when thinking about cost.  It's decent out of the box.  Mix it with Amazon Basics filament (roughly 20 a roll), cheap chinese filament (roughly 10-15 a roll), or if you live near a microcenter - Inland Filament (roughly 15 a roll) and you're set with minimal effort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now... to answer your question - what TYPE of printer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;FDM:  That the plastic in the rolls - and by far the cheapest type of 3D printer (and the most common)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;SLA:  That's the Resin Printers.  This is far better quality (normally), but much harder to use, not really for those just getting into 3D printing.  They are also far more costly.  If you have the ability - this is the ones that start getting cheaper to make - but making a large resin printer is not easy at all.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bio Printers:  I do not suggest making this.  In fact, you probably can't even easily buy them.  From your scope of what you are looking for - doesn't seem much like what you want either.  This is the type to make molds for cataracts, organs, other medical needs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are other various types of 3D printers, a lot of them actually, but these are three big ones.  As I said, I'm going into a general overlook - if you want more info, I'd be glad to give you more in any of the topics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;SLA / DLP (both very similar)&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm going to assume you want to look between either SLA or FDM.   SLA (Resin) can be extremely pricey, and the resin even moreso.  They work by curing Resin via light.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The -cheapest- way to build an SLA printer is by a projector!  If you happen to have one already, then this route can cost you 20ish +-, not including Resin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What you need:  Projector(50-100+ or free), old DVD drive/ cd drive from a pc (5 from goodwill, free for most people who have old systems laying around), Nema 17 Motor(brand new 15ish - shopping around ebay I have gotten 5 for 15 before), Threaded rod (home depot - 3-5), Arduino (10ish), a glass vat (dollar store), and some form of a base - either a cleaned off blank circuit board - pegboard, or a few various other things that can be used, various screws, mounts, belts ect.  You also need resin.  Monoprice has some of the better priced resins at like 40-50 per vile.  Amazon has some cheaper ones too.  As you can see, the price is already starting to go up.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Making a SLA printer, the basic idea is that you are hooking up the projector to be controlled by the Arduino.  The Arduino you are loading open source (freely available code online) for SLA printers.  The Arduino will control the projector itself, using the light to cure the resin as the build plate moves.  The threaded rod you attach to the Nema 17 motor to move the build plate up and down.  The plate will need to dunk the bottom side into the glass vat - the projector actually cures your print upside down - connecting to the build plate!  As the build plate moves up, it will pull your print up with it to.  After building, you will need to finish curing your print - you take it and cure it in UV light, or just set it outside in sunlight for a few hours.  SLA can get some super high quality prints.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check out this tutorial.  &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.buildyourownsla.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=8&amp;amp;t=2768&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.buildyourownsla.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=8&amp;amp;t=2768&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;FDM&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the type I'm assuming you are thinking about - the type where the extruder (print head) moves, and the build plate sometimes moves, and is sometimes heated.  You print with rolls of plastic.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a lot of open source designs out there, one of the most popular designs is the i3 style.  This is the style of the Ender 3 that I recommended above.  It might not be the -best- design, but it is certainly popular!  The &quot;best&quot; is highly subjective though.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For this, you need to have some sort of building material.  You can use anything from Legos, plywood, plexiglass, metal, ect.  Although you can use just about anything to build with, metal via 2020 rods (50ish+) are going to be some of your better, more stable options.  You need a build plate.  You can go cheap and use an unheated metal plate, mirror, glass, table... really anything flat - plus the addition of some blue painters tape for adhesion.  You need some way to have endstops - either endstop switches - which cost a few bucks a piece (let's say 10 for 4 switches), you will need a good handful of screws, bolts, nuts, t-slot nuts, brackets - you get the picture.  This can be cheap to pricey quick.  (let's say 20ish for random number).  You will need (if building i3 style) two threaded rods (10) or if you are going xyz style 4 (20).  You will need Nema 17 motors - i3 style 3-4 motors(15-80) - xyz 2-5 motors (10-100), an arduino board (can go cheap from 20 all the way to amazing boards such as the duet wifi 2 which is around 200), a PSU (get a good one here 12v at least 40amps - switchable psu), you need some mosfet boards 1 for your extruder and one for your bed if you are using a heated buildplate.  Speaking of heated buildplates, if you use one don't make your own.  It's safer to buy one and they can run cheap.  You will also need a lot of wire, solder, shrink wrap... I'm sure you're getting the picture on that there.  Basic microcontroller and electronics work tools and accessory parts there including various sensors and whatnot of the like.  Extruder gear, you can build your own - but until you are really familiar with it, just go buy one.  You can pick up an entire extruder assembly, off brand knock off for around 20.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The probably hands down best way to learn to build your own 3D printer is to get your hands dirty with a pre-built or a kit, start taking it apart, and really learning how they work rather than just following a guide to build your own.  There is so many resources out there that are only 'half complete' or 'half correct' that without foundation knowledge - it becomes pretty easy to burn your house down. Not to mention, building your own is almost always more expensive than a kit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14247" LastEditorUserId="14247" LastEditDate="2019-02-07T02:33:58.330" LastActivityDate="2019-02-07T02:33:58.330" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8006" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7989" CreationDate="2019-01-18T04:41:11.983" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Changing slicer settings will ultimately help with future prints, but there is a tool that has been an absolute god send to me for cleaning up hard to clean up prints.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sFViG.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Deburring tool&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sFViG.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Deburring tool&quot; title=&quot;Deburring tool&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please, go pick one up.  You won't regret it.  They make life so much easier to clean up prints from hard to clean up materials.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14247" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2019-10-23T17:40:48.393" LastActivityDate="2019-10-23T17:40:48.393" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8008" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7992" CreationDate="2019-01-18T06:56:15.347" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had the same thing! On my anycubic I3 mega.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tried a lot of stuff and got so sick of it so I installed a 10:1 gearbox on my extruder motor. So now it provides 10x more torque and since I havent got the issue anymore where the extruder is just grinding on the filament and the motor is just skipping steps. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No because of this and because my anycubic won't connect to a pc I can't change settings on my printer so I resolve the ratio with 1000% flow in my cura settings. And other stuff is also affected.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But at least it won't stop and just be sitting there and skipping steps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14248" LastActivityDate="2019-01-18T06:56:15.347" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8009" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-01-18T22:41:47.390" Score="1" ViewCount="414" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm having a problem where every few layers seems to be offset slightly, creating a stepping effect. The images below should be smooth along the sides, but having this ridge type effect. My question is how do I calibrate the printer to print smoothly? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I’m using a Hictop Prusa I3. I’ve recently installed an updated version of Marlin and have been tinkering with the configuration to make it match as close to the original config that was originally installed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Printer&lt;/strong&gt;: Prusa I3 (Hictop)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Marlin&lt;/strong&gt;: 1.1.9&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Filament&lt;/strong&gt;: 1.75 PLA&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Slicer&lt;/strong&gt;: Ultimaker Cura&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Layer height&lt;/strong&gt;: .16&amp;nbsp;mm&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Extruder&lt;/strong&gt;: 190&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Bed&lt;/strong&gt;: 60&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Speed&lt;/strong&gt;: 30&amp;nbsp;mm/s&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Line width&lt;/strong&gt;: 0.8&amp;nbsp;mm&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Cooling fan&lt;/strong&gt;: 30%&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Below are a few examples of what I mean by ridges and stepping &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NdMLF.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/r6vNY.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8792" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-01-19T07:15:20.257" LastActivityDate="2021-06-17T00:04:50.383" Title="Ridges and stepping in my prints" Tags="|print-quality|prusa-i3|marlin|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8012" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-01-19T14:40:36.697" Score="1" ViewCount="4322" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm new to 3D printing, but I've solved all of my problems except for this rough surface shown in the image of a Benchy  print:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rhJhL.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rhJhL.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Benchy showing printing defects&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any suggestions are appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Printer (new): Raptor 2 (400x400x700&amp;nbsp;mm)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bed Temp: 65&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Extruder Temp: 210&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Filament: PLA (1.75&amp;nbsp;mm) right out of the package (came with printer from&#xA;Formbot)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;200 degrees extruder; 60-degree hotbed - print success, bow issue&#xA;persists. speed: 100&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;fade height: 0&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;nozzle: 200&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;bed: 60&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;fan speed: 255&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;flow: 100 probe offset: -1.4&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hxVrS.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hxVrS.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Best results so far: 200°, 60° hotbed, 50 speed. Best yet settings still need to be tweaked. Not sure where to go?&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5oLV6.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5oLV6.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Best results so far: 200°, 60° hotbed, 50 speed. Best yet settings still need to be tweaked. Not sure where to go?&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14262" LastEditorUserId="14262" LastEditDate="2019-01-24T09:25:21.697" LastActivityDate="2019-01-28T07:05:21.380" Title="3DBenchy's bow prints out of alignment" Tags="|print-quality|troubleshooting|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8013" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8012" CreationDate="2019-01-19T15:55:05.373" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You print too hot and probably with not enough cooling. These typical defects are caused by too much heat input into your model. You see this best at the overhang of the bow of Benchy, it should be smooth like the bottom part of the side of your Benchy. It clearly shows heat induced defects. Lower the temperature at least 10&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C. Know that PLA usually is printable at about 190&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C, also 65&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C for the hotbed is quite high, Depending on the surface you could aim for a temperature between 50 - 60&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-01-19T21:26:55.370" LastActivityDate="2019-01-19T21:26:55.370" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8014" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8012" CreationDate="2019-01-19T15:55:58.613" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The artifact your bow clearly shows is usually a result of very high print temperature - the filament sags unevenly as it is not cooling to solidification fast enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might want to reduce your print temperature for PLA a little. Try one or two 5° steps. I print my PLA usually at 200&amp;nbsp;°C, some blends even lower. Do the same for the print bed - 60&amp;nbsp;°C is the usual temperature in many machines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I unpack 210&amp;nbsp;°C that's only in conjunction with 100&amp;nbsp;% infill and deliberate over-extrusion for what would be best described as a &quot;cast-solid&quot; result. It's because under that condition I want the filament to melt and merge with everything super tight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It also might help to change the print cooling geometry to better cool the printed parts - and check if all fans are on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2019-01-27T11:16:08.847" LastActivityDate="2019-01-27T11:16:08.847" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8015" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8012" CreationDate="2019-01-19T18:34:39.223" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you printed Benchy upright, this is an overhang. You didn't state the print speed that you used, but I found that I can &lt;strong&gt;improve overhang quality considerably by printing them slower&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're otherwise satisfied with the print quality, you probably don't want to waste time by printing the whole model slower. If you're using Ultimaker Cura there is a setting in the &lt;em&gt;Experimental&lt;/em&gt; section (don't worry, it works fine) to print only overhangs slower:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eg83k.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eg83k.png&quot; alt=&quot;cura settings&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Those are very conservative settings, a larger angle, like 30°, would probably be fine, too.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10131" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-01-19T21:21:33.397" LastActivityDate="2019-01-19T21:21:33.397" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8016" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-01-19T19:55:04.250" Score="0" ViewCount="361" Body="&lt;p&gt;My Anet A8 prints come out with vibration marks when I print under 80&amp;nbsp;mm/s.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Above that value, it's fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has anyone experienced something like this with any axis?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Y-axis motor also vibrates when the belt is removed, so I'm not sure if it's a board, motor or frame problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I haven't changed the motor yet, I just finished checking the linear rods and ran some tests.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10524" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2019-01-20T15:52:59.317" LastActivityDate="2019-01-20T15:52:59.317" Title="Vibration marks when printing slowly on Y-axis" Tags="|print-quality|anet-a8|y-axis|ghosting|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8020" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-01-20T11:21:40.933" Score="4" ViewCount="2476" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Bujra.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Bujra.png&quot; alt=&quot;0.200 mm layer height, single wall&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gCYkr.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gCYkr.png&quot; alt=&quot;0.075 mm layer height, 2walls, no infill&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;These lines exist on all prints, PLA, ABS.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;They're 0.8 mm apart [20T 2GT pulley, 1.8°/step motor = 1 line/4 full-steps]&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Start to disappear above 75 mm/s but will still appear on slower axis when printing diagonal lines or curves&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Custom built frame, cross bar (Ultimaker style) using linear rails&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;dual-motor (4 total on X-Y) + separate driver (1 motor/driver)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Running Smoothieware on Smoothieboard 5X [A5984 drivers, 32 microstep]&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tried all these with no improvement:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;TL;DR problem is somewhere between drivers and motors&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Switched to 6.625:1 geared extruder&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tried parallel, series, single coil on the 8 wires motor and 2 other different motors&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Enable fast decay mode on A5984&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Motor current from 0.5 A to 1.8 A&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;PLA temp from 170~200 °C&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Acceleration as low as 100 mm/s2&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;**Changed 20T to 16T pulleys. The pattern scaled down proportional to the change in tooth count. Ruled out mechanical issues.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14273" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-10-25T22:23:03.063" LastActivityDate="2021-10-27T02:02:31.833" Title="How to fix evenly spaced vertical print pattern" Tags="|fdm|electronics|troubleshooting|ghosting|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8021" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3065" CreationDate="2019-01-20T12:47:12.643" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;From &lt;a href=&quot;http://3daddict.com/anet-3d-printer-common-mistakes-fix/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://3daddict.com/anet-3d-printer-common-mistakes-fix/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The motor shaft and the threading rod must have space between them in the flexible coupler.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That means unlocking the coupler from the motor shaft and moving it up a bit, in the end the threaded rod nearly touches the printer top hole instead of having like a 1cm gap.&#xA;This will allow the coupler to flex, and thus should handle small misalignments of the brass nut.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's about point 2 of @darth-pixel answer, but before locking the screws, make sure to have empty space between rod and motor shaft&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14275" LastActivityDate="2019-01-20T12:47:12.643" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8022" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8074" CreationDate="2019-01-20T20:07:06.073" Score="16" ViewCount="59664" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an Ender 3 that I have been pretty happy with so far, however it recently started an odd behavior and I can't figure out what's causing it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What happens is that the first ~3&amp;nbsp;mm of the print comes out &quot;sloppy&quot;. After that, everything clears up and it prints fine for the rest of the print. (Although it perhaps looks a little under extruded on the top layer)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0UAfD.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0UAfD.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It looks almost like it's over extruding. But if that's the case, why would it only be for the first 3&amp;nbsp;mm? Then the top layer looking under extruded makes that possibility even more unlikely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is consistently happening regardless of what I am printing, the brand of filament (I only print PLA), or the bed temp or hot end temp. I've tried tweaking with the bed leveling and giving a little more gap on the first layer, but that doesn't seem to change anything either. I also calibrated the extrusion multiplier and it's spot on now. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I use Ultimaker Cura 3.6 as my slicer. I tried resetting back to defaults to see if maybe I had inadvertently changed something but that didn't help either.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have done a few upgrades - Marlin firmware, Capricorn tubing, glass bed, replaced the (broken) plastic extruder with one of the metal ones, new PTFE fittings. I didn't notice the problem until recently so I can't say if it started corresponding with any of those upgrades. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I first got it, the prints came out beautifully from the first layer, so this is really frustrating me. I'd like to get it back the way it was.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any suggestions on where to look?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Update: I did some slightly more controlled experimemts and I did get it looking a little better. It does seem related mostly to bed tempurature. The cooler I make the bed, the better it looks. However as it gets cooler, the prints are also starting to warp and break loose, so the print ends up failing completely. I had a hard time getting a successful print below about 45 degrees, and even at that temperature it still isn't completely clean. I'm using glue stick for adhesion and it just doesn't seem able to hold it without some heat. I traditionally have run around 50 degrees before this problem started though, so it seems odd I have to drop below that now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, for more info, the cube dimensions are pretty close in the X and Y, but were about .5mm short in the Z. So the layers do seem to be settling. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did check the bed temp with a non-contact thermometer and it was consistent with what the printer reported, so it doesnt seem to be a bad thermostat throwing things off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12559" LastEditorUserId="12559" LastEditDate="2019-01-22T04:46:58.723" LastActivityDate="2021-04-07T20:57:43.703" Title="First 3 mm prints poorly, then fine after that" Tags="|print-quality|extrusion|troubleshooting|creality-ender-3|" AnswerCount="9" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8023" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-01-21T05:58:41.080" Score="4" ViewCount="5572" Body="&lt;p&gt;My CR-10 is starting prints, BUT then makes weird spiral pattern, layers go up vertically with large gaps. Hollow infill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cQynM.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;wierd vertical spiral layering pattern&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bEbhg.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;printed fine at base then randomly happened&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kkMB3.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;This one was printing the weird pattern at base but not as obviously, but got worse about six inches up until it made the top completely hollow&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don’t know if it’s:&#xA; - My Slicing skills&#xA;- original files&#xA;- the printer itself&#xA;Long explanation. Questions at the end. I’ve had beautiful normal prints. Then I’ve had these abnormal spiral layer prints with infill issues and spaghetti monsters (the images don’t show but, where the prints pictured end, is not the full print, it did the weird spiral then just stopped layering altogether). I’m semi-new to printing and don’t have too much of a tech background apart from average use. Been researching a couple months, I’ve only been printing for about a week. I’ve had an amazing couple prints. Baby groot was flawless, barely noticeable layers. The test print (a rather thick disk with deep grid marks and a puppy on top) that came with the printer was the same smooth flawless, it wasn’t my first print though. So the behavior seems erratic. The two prints pictured had several successful print in between them. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do know:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The elder wand file was in several tutorials and was printed successfully. Its in two parts. The first part, which is way shorter and thicker printed Amazingly. The second part pictured was double the height+ and 1/4 the thickness. I even printed it successfully once before going horizontally and flat against the bed. BUT I had to run the print three times because the filament would not stick to the glass. It was just being dragged along behind the nozzle. But I was observing so I ended the print before it went too far. All I did to change this was add a brim and supports. Which gave a “successful print” except the fact that one of the knobs has a flat spot and the support remnants were very noticeable. Resolution was terrible too. Hence why I decided to try printing it vertically.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bigger print pictured is the base of a hufflepuff horecrux cup, the first time I printed it was with cura slicer, it came out beautifully but the stem snapped right under the base of the cup part st some point, and the left handle had some wierd stringing issues, like 7 pure strands of filament hanging out one corner, and the print failed s fee layers from top. However the file description only had one previous make listed and the thing with the top of the handle and print failed about the same with that persons print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sorry for the long post. I’d just really appreciate any help, and I wanted to give all the details.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14279" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-01-21T06:38:36.703" LastActivityDate="2020-12-15T07:07:46.587" Title="Under-extrusion after a certain amount of successful layers?" Tags="|print-quality|adhesion|layer-height|creality-cr-10|print-failure|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8024" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8023" CreationDate="2019-01-21T06:27:23.553" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;sub&gt;This is partial answer and comment as it was too big to fit the comment section, it will be a proper answer once the question is updated by the OP.&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What you call a weird spiral pattern is the result of under-extrusion. When there is under-extrusion, the resulting print is sparsely filled. The reason for this under-extrusion is most probably partial clogging of the nozzle, or an issue with the extruder itself. One explanation could be that you are suffering from heat creep, but the information you provide is not enough to explain this or any other solution further in detail. Clogging can e.g. be caused by retraction settings and/or temperature settings, without your settings it is a guess what this is actually causing this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looking at the print deteriorate the higher the Z becomes this is most probably a heat creep issue, so you print too hot with too large retraction settings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-12-15T07:07:46.587" LastActivityDate="2020-12-15T07:07:46.587" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8025" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-01-21T19:22:56.540" Score="4" ViewCount="10964" Body="&lt;p&gt;I got myself a Creality Ender 3 and just finished assembling it and I noticed that the home position is at the right instead of the left. It also is about about 3&amp;nbsp;mm in front of the right corner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyone could maybe help me to understand what is wrong?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14285" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-01-21T22:36:11.803" LastActivityDate="2019-01-22T10:42:08.197" Title="Ender 3 homing problem" Tags="|creality-ender-3|homing|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8027" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5585" CreationDate="2019-01-21T20:47:26.877" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;My friend found an Ender 3, basically the same thing as a cr-10, at Best Buy. I wouldn't be surprised if you came across a cr-10s there as well. Keep in mind if you are going to buy one, to also get a warranty as printers can come damaged and break later. It is better to be safe rather than sorry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14286" LastActivityDate="2019-01-21T20:47:26.877" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8028" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8025" CreationDate="2019-01-21T21:01:50.010" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Did you make sure that the x,y,z and other cords / connectors, were connected to the right areas? TO clarify, the things that connect into the motors.&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/05zAt.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/05zAt.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;What I was trying to explain. Apologies for the low quality.&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14286" LastActivityDate="2019-01-21T21:01:50.010" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8029" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7645" CreationDate="2019-01-21T21:06:49.293" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I currently have a couple scratches on the base of my Cr-10. They may have come, for me, from using tape on the bed as well as the nozzle being too close and rubbing. I have not noticed any quality difference during my prints. Noting Oscar, warping could also cause the nozzle to scrape the build plate when it goes over it. I am attempting to fix this problem on own printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14286" LastActivityDate="2019-01-21T21:06:49.293" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8030" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8022" CreationDate="2019-01-21T22:06:09.683" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It looks like you need to calibrate your Z0 by adjusting your endstop height. It's starting too low.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think you are printing your first layer too low, and underextruding to compensate. Do the paper test with your Z at 0, confirm it's good. Do the 100&amp;nbsp;mm extrude test and confirm it's pulling in exactly 100&amp;nbsp;mm. Measure your filament diameter in several places and make sure the slicer value matches.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12950" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2019-02-06T16:15:04.900" LastActivityDate="2019-02-06T16:15:04.900" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8031" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7645" CreationDate="2019-01-21T22:29:38.837" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As the question continued in comments, it can be read that the build plate had over-tight screws and loose screws on the build plate. This uneven tension could lead to stresses that warp the bed, e.g. lower corner and bulging out in the middle of the bed. When levelling on the corners, the nozzle could hit the bulge in the middle when printing. Furthermore, an endstop may have shifted during operation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2019-01-21T22:29:38.837" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8032" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8025" CreationDate="2019-01-21T22:54:47.517" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Homing is the process where the machine finds all the limits of the 3 axis (at the endstop switches), to have a common reference point for each axis. From the endstops, firmware defined values exist to give the printer head the offset to the home position, also known as origin (X=0, Y=0). If the origin position is in front of the plate, wrong offsets may be defined, but you can &lt;a href=&quot;/q/6375&quot;&gt;re-adjust the position&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the stepper is driving the printer head away from the endstop on a particular axis on homing (in your case the X direction), there might be a few possible problems at hand:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The stepper cables are plugged in reversed&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The wires in the stepper cable are switched&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The stepper direction is reversed in firmware (this is not very probable for a kit or bought printer)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The stepper motor itself is build mirrored (not uncommon mistake for Y stepper motors on the Anet A8)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A quick fix would be to rotate the connector 180&amp;deg; of the cable going into the X stepper, if this works, you can disassemble the cable and properly arrange the stepper wires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-01-22T10:42:08.197" LastActivityDate="2019-01-22T10:42:08.197" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8033" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-01-22T05:25:24.870" Score="2" ViewCount="242" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here is my first attempt at printing a &quot;Bed Leveling Calibration test&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OWMiC.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OWMiC.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Image of adhesion problems of calibration print&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It obviously didn't come out as I would have hoped, but what can you say just looking at this picture?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it possible to tell from this calibration print which corners are not leveled? Or is this just a general lack of stickiness issue (e.g. i need glue)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I leveled this thing with paper several times, but honestly, I'm terrible at leveling. I just got this new piece of glass and there's nothing on it. The glue residue is actually on the sheet beneath.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are some tips for printing on glass? I hear some people say use glue, others say never use glue. Should I increase or lower the temp?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm printing Dikale PLA on Monoprice Select V2, extruder temp 200&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C and bed temp 70&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C. Initial layer speed is 30&amp;nbsp;mm/s (print speed is 60&amp;nbsp;mm/s but I don't think this print goes that far).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13712" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-12-10T06:04:02.903" LastActivityDate="2019-12-10T06:04:02.903" Title="Adhesion problem when printing calibration test" Tags="|heated-bed|bed-leveling|adhesion|glass-bed|monoprice-maker-select|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8034" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8033" CreationDate="2019-01-22T08:12:43.240" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;What can you say just looking at this picture?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;-&gt;There are 2 obvious observations that can be drawn from your image.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;First&lt;/strong&gt;, the bed does not seem to be levelled correctly, the right side (especially the front right corner) is closer to the nozzle than the left and left-back side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Is it possible to tell from this calibration print which corners are&#xA;  not leveled?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;-&gt; Yes, the front right corner is higher. The filament is much thinner there, it is more transparent than the rest of the lines.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Second&lt;/strong&gt;, you have glass mounted onto an adhesion sheet similar to BuildTak. Note that such adhesion sheets are rough (to create more surface area for the filament to grip on), placing a sheet of glass on top of such a sheet will create small air pockets (less contact surface area to the glass plate as that is perfectly flat by its production process) and thus an unsatisfactory heat transfer process. Glass directly onto the Aluminium will have a higher temperature than with an insulator (BuildTak sheet) in between it, it is far more difficult to determine the bed temperature that way. For printing on glass, you could also raise the temperature compared to direct printing onto the metal bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Should I increase or lower the temp?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;-&gt; When using glass on top of the heated bed, you should raise the temperature a few degrees.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should remove the BuildTak sheet and put the glass directly onto the Aluminium heat bed or remove the glass plate and print on the BuildTak sheet directly, level the bed better or consider installing an auto-level (touch) sensor if your printer electronics board supports that. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;What are some tips for printing on glass?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Furthermore, use some PVA based spray (e.g. certain hairspray brands or specific print adhesion spray) or Polyvinylpyrrolidone based glues (certain glue sticks, white wood glue, etc.) to create a sticky surface for the filament to adhere to. I have great experience with PVA based sprays like 3DLAC, but there are great alternatives found in common household hairspray cans as well, as long as it contains PVA.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Or is this just a general lack of stickiness issue (e.g. i need glue)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;-&gt; Yes, Polyvinylpyrrolidone/PVA based glue/spray will result in better adhesion.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sub&gt;&#xA;A general remark is that you could listen at what others have tried, but you need to find out yourself what works best for you. In order to get the print to stick to the glass, you should use every trick there is to get good adhesion. If PVA based sprays or Polyvinylpyrrolidone based glues work for you, use it, if not, print on bare glass, use tape, BuilTak, elevate bed temperature, overextrude first layer, use brims/mouse ears, etc.. &#xA;&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-11-07T12:05:48.097" LastActivityDate="2019-11-07T12:05:48.097" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8036" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-01-22T14:27:13.933" Score="1" ViewCount="3820" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've switched to a PLA of a different color and wanted to figure out what temperature my nozzle should be so I printed a temperature tower. However, the towers came out perfect and the only stringing was from the last bit of plastic oozing out when the print head moved to X-home.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I loaded the tower stl file in Ultimaker Cura and did the post processing script to change the temperature from 240 °C at layer 1 (changing from 200 for the skirt). And decreasing the temp by 10 degrees every segment after. Here is the resulting print vs the expected print:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MAce7.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MAce7.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Actual Temperature Tower&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/v0yDS.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/v0yDS.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Expected Temperature Tower&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was expecting an over-extruded, blobby mess and stringing to make a spider feel at home towards the bottom, but this is one of my best prints yet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I watched the print in its entirety and the printer was set to the respective temperatures and the nozzle reached them, as confirmed by OctoPrint:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1L4H7.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1L4H7.png&quot; alt=&quot;OctoPrint Temp Graph&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And the G-Code does have post processing scripts generated by Ultimaker Cura:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iOtJk.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iOtJk.png&quot; alt=&quot;G-Code&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas why my print looks so good? I'm printing PLA at various nozzle temps, 60 °C on bed with the Creality CR-10S sliced with Ulitmaker Cura 3.6.0.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13883" LastEditorUserId="13883" LastEditDate="2019-01-22T14:48:18.733" LastActivityDate="2019-01-22T14:48:18.733" Title="Temperature Tower came out too good" Tags="|print-quality|g-code|calibration|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8038" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8047" CreationDate="2019-01-22T22:28:36.557" Score="5" ViewCount="2586" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there a way to view more than the last 300 lines in the terminal tab on OctoPrint? Or is there a txt file of a log? Or even a setting/plugin that does either?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I keep finding my prints pausing as if I said to change the filament even though that wasn't set in the slicer, but I catch it long after the 300&lt;sup&gt;th&lt;/sup&gt; line in the terminal so I can't see what OctoPrint is trying to do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13883" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-01-23T14:51:56.873" LastActivityDate="2019-01-23T14:51:56.873" Title="How to log more than 300 lines of the OctoPrint terminal?" Tags="|octoprint|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8039" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8038" CreationDate="2019-01-23T00:16:23.540" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Yes&lt;/strong&gt;, you can show more than 300 lines in the terminal; just &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/foosel/OctoPrint/commit/e9623fdc36c658a5b8abe7769b1b308edfc3f424&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;disable auto scrolling&lt;/a&gt; (&lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/foosel/OctoPrint/issues/286#issuecomment-99215149&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;reference&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Disabling Autoscroll now completely disables cutting off the lines (so&#xA;  you can have way more than 300 lines while that's disabled), filtering&#xA;  has been improved too and doesn't cause scrolling anymore.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that with disabled autoscrolling, you will be able to see more lines up to the point that the buffer is full. If you need even more lines to monitor, just enable the logging the data to file &lt;code&gt;serial.log&lt;/code&gt;. If you open the options page (OctoPrint Settings), just tick the box for &quot;Log communication to &lt;code&gt;serial.log&lt;/code&gt;&quot; under &quot;Serial logging&quot; of the &quot;Serial connection&quot; options.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This serial logging file is typically used for debug purposes, but as can be read from the options, it comes with a warning:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;While this can negatively impact performance, a &lt;code&gt;serial.log&lt;/code&gt; can be&#xA;  incredibly useful for debugging any issues observed in the&#xA;  communication between OctoPrint and your printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can either access the log file through the OctoPrint options/setting through the &quot;Logging&quot; options tab, or direct download/copy from the logging directory:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;on Linux: ~/.octoprint/logs&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;on Windows: %APPDATA%\OctoPrint\logs&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;on MacOSX: ~/Library/Application Support/OctoPrint/logs&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-01-23T14:45:37.270" LastActivityDate="2019-01-23T14:45:37.270" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8040" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-01-23T03:16:17.917" Score="0" ViewCount="863" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am trying to understand what could cause a misprint after several layers. It acts as if the extruder head bump to the PLA after a while. Thus moving the parts and then, it fails because it is not printing at the right location anymore.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lgM9d.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lgM9d.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;layer offset&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gxyf3.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gxyf3.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The expected result, for one &quot;pyramid&quot; is the following:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/a48Be.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/a48Be.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;The whole model is the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:213946&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;cube gear&lt;/a&gt;:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DGXeA.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DGXeA.png&quot; alt=&quot;Model of the geared cube&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I checked the extruder multiplier coefficient parameter. The width of the filament is ok: 1.75&amp;nbsp;mm. The Y axis seems to be properly calibrated, and if it was the problem, I would expect it to fail before anyway. But I don't have any idea of what could cause that aside from that. And the problem seems to general and &quot;quite&quot; repeatable based on this print and some others (I do not guarantee the same height of failure, but...).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I got a better result by printing layers by 0.3 mm with a 0.4 mm nozzle. But this failed print was with a 0.2 mm layer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My configuration: I have a prusa i3, with a bowden extruder. It has a slight multiplication of the extruder size, because during my calibration, I noticed that not enough material was pushed. I also calibrated my Z axis as carefully as I could. So what could cause the problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;During my prints, I also have a problem of small strings everywhere, that I didn't manage to solve completely with the hotend temperature, nor the withdrawal parameter set to 2&amp;nbsp;mm. And I don't have a fan blowing at the end object (I plan to add one eventually). And the bridge speed is supposed to go at 60&amp;nbsp;mm/s and non print move at 100&amp;nbsp;mm/s, thus fast enough I think to avoid strings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9438" LastEditorUserId="9438" LastEditDate="2019-01-29T02:17:54.410" LastActivityDate="2019-01-29T02:17:54.410" Title="Print parts fail mid-print" Tags="|print-quality|prusa-i3|calibration|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8041" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8043" CreationDate="2019-01-23T03:19:03.197" Score="1" ViewCount="775" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm unable to use the parts cooler I printed. Every time I turn it on, the hot end temp drops too low, and for some reason the PID can't seem to get it back up:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/05cae.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/05cae.png&quot; alt=&quot;Fan kicking on&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a test to simulate the issue. The first drop is the fan kicking on, then the last bump is me turning the fan off. It's almost as if the set point drops when the fan kicks in. Any ideas? The PID is tuned (I ran the autotune) and works well without the fan on. This is a RepRap Guru Prusa clone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14300" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-01-23T07:05:31.830" LastActivityDate="2019-01-23T07:05:31.830" Title="Unable to hit hot end temperature with part cooler on" Tags="|hotend|heat-management|cooling|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8043" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8041" CreationDate="2019-01-23T06:05:24.663" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;This effect you describe is a commonly known problem that occurs when the print part cooling fan is not correctly positioned, i.e. if it blows air directly onto the nozzle or heater block and is best solved by printing an alternative part cooling fan duct. Alternatively you could insulate the heater block with some insulation cotton or silicone socks that fit over the heater block.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-01-23T06:21:21.353" LastActivityDate="2019-01-23T06:21:21.353" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8044" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8045" CreationDate="2019-01-23T12:42:50.497" Score="2" ViewCount="3423" Body="&lt;p&gt;Which filament is good for a coaster for a hot cup? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't expect PLA to be good because it can easily melt under a hot cup.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note, I can't use ABS because I don't have an enclosed printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14276" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-01-23T15:22:50.397" LastActivityDate="2019-01-24T07:51:02.223" Title="Filament choice for coasters" Tags="|filament-choice|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8045" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8044" CreationDate="2019-01-23T13:40:54.427" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Even if you pour in boiling water in a cup, the outside of the cup will have a lower temperature. When resting on a coaster, usually a small part of the cup actually touches the coaster. Also, the design of the coaster could influence the heat transfer, a more open structure of the coaster may be beneficial. Some people print coasters in PLA although the glass temperature (temperature at which the plastic becomes soft, this is usually the temperature of your bed when you print the material) may be lower than than the temperature of the cup, the filament will weaken (for PLA at about 50&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C), but not melt , melting of PLA happens at a higher temperature (for PLA above 150&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C) than your mug can get (unless you pour liquid metal in it). It should therefore be doable in PLA, I have printed a PLA coaster that has very small ridges (about 1&amp;nbsp;mm) of an embossed image and placed a cup with boiling water on it, to find that the coaster is able to withstand the temperature of the cup without deforming (the ridges do not fail or deform).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To elaborate on the filament materials other than PLA; there are many filament types that have higher glass temperatures, but are still very printable. Various types of co-polyesters exist, like PETG, that have a higher glass temperature (&gt;&amp;nbsp;85&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C), are a substitute for ABS and still very well printable. Nylon is also a material that can be used, there are brands that have low warp nylon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that there are a few options to print ABS while you have a non-enclosed printer, you could &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;fabricate some cardboard pieces for a temporary enclosure, &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;place the printer in an non-draft room or &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;print the skirt height at the height of the print part.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that coasters have a relative low profile height, it should not be that big of a problem to print ABS coasters on an open printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-01-24T07:51:02.223" LastActivityDate="2019-01-24T07:51:02.223" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8047" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8038" CreationDate="2019-01-23T14:26:46.530" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Serial logging has to be enabled. &lt;strong&gt;Warning: This will impact the performance of OctoPrint.&lt;/strong&gt; Enabling this feature can be done under Settings -&amp;gt; Serial Connection -&amp;gt; Serial Logging and checking the box for &amp;quot;Log communication to serial.log.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Hp3y4.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Hp3y4.png&quot; alt=&quot;OctoPrint Settings&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One can download the log under Settings -&amp;gt; Logging and finding serial.log in the list of log files.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The file can also be found in the following directories (according to &lt;a href=&quot;https://discourse.octoprint.org/t/where-can-i-find-octoprints-and-octopis-log-files/299&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this FAQ&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All log files that OctoPrint writes can be found in the logs sub folder in its configuration directory:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;on Linux: ~/.octoprint/logs&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;on Windows: %APPDATA%\OctoPrint\logs&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;on MacOSX: ~/Library/Application Support/OctoPrint/logs&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13883" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:29:41.667" LastActivityDate="2019-01-23T14:26:46.530" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8048" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="642" CreationDate="2019-01-23T22:10:39.967" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've had amazing results just rubbing in a very small amount of vaseline. It makes the white marking virtually disappear. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found this trick after &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/make:599656&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;printing a recorder&lt;/a&gt; for my son. I sanded the connecting tubes to help them fit better, and used vaseline there also for fit, but mainly to help seal the connections to prevent air loss. I was amazed to see the white marks disappear completely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't have before pictures of the recorder to demo the effect, so here it is again using our old friend Benchy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, the original print, where you can just see some less-than-perfect results on the overhang at the base of the bow (sorry, my cell phone camera isn't that great)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/T6BGK.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/T6BGK.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Blue Benchy before, with marring on the overhang under the bow&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next we have the same part, after some sanding to smooth the section:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DfZi3.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DfZi3.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Same blue Benchy, with lots of white from sanding&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note I have already wiped away as much white powder as I could. If this was something I cared about, I'd sand it more evenly across the entire hull, rather than just this section.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, the same part again, after I've rubbed in some vaseline. In this case, what I actually had to hand was a small container of Carmex, but it worked just as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/c8KPO.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/c8KPO.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Final blue benchy, with no more visible white marks&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Again, my camera sucks... but you can see the important stuff: there's no white marks. It only takes a very small amount of vaseline to clean a fairly large area.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12562" LastEditorUserId="12562" LastEditDate="2019-01-23T22:45:21.580" LastActivityDate="2019-01-23T22:45:21.580" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8049" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-01-23T22:36:31.240" Score="1" ViewCount="242" Body="&lt;p&gt;Several years ago, I purchased a Printrbot Metal Plus with a dual extruder option and the LCD attachment/accessory. Printrbot has now gone out of business, and the USB connection isn't working very well for reasons I'm not quite sure of (It has native USB that emulates a UART connection to a computer, but it hasn't connected to Cura since a few months after I bought it, not that I really noticed at the time).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have been printing via the LCD control accessory for all print jobs since, both due to it being more convenient and due to the USB not working.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since it would be more convenient (and also because the remaining single point of failure concerns me when dealing with equipment this expensive), I would like to connect an ESP8266 with the ESP3D firmware to my printer. This would allow wireless printing and control of the printer from a web or network interface. I even have several ESP8266 modules lying around waiting to be programmed from an unrelated project.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/luc-github/ESP3D&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://github.com/luc-github/ESP3D&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My problem is that, due to the extra controller board for the second print head and due to the LCD being installed, I am not sure if the hardware UART (there's supposed to be one somewhere, but it wasn't well broken-out since the controller uses USB instead) is being used or is available right now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm also not even sure where on the motherboard it &lt;em&gt;is&lt;/em&gt; (assuming it even has one), since, with the folding of the company, most of the documentation seems to have evaporated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/wiki/Printrboard#Schematic&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://reprap.org/wiki/Printrboard#Schematic&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The above URL is the only resource I was able to find with details on that. I read it some time ago, but wasn't really able to map the pins to the board layout or the descriptions on the chip. On my check just now, I wasn't even able to &lt;em&gt;find&lt;/em&gt; a UART.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know enough about these printers to say where to look for a UART or to tell whether it's used by one of the attachments I have?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Notes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would also be happy with a method to convert a UART to USB and back, assuming that it's my computer that's having issues connecting and not the printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have also tried Octoprint, but that has its own issues, namely that I have to use a Raspberry Pi and that some of the configuration needs to be done on the Pi itself, as well as the corruption possibility and I suspect a different use case. One advantage of using the ESP8266 is that it is mostly safe from corruption and its main software is read-only.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am not certain what board revision is used in my printer, since it arrived pre-assembled and I'd rather not open up the case (it's really nasty to try to get to, since you have to flip the entire thing over).&#xA;I would thus appreciate any help you can give in finding any documentation that might say which it is or that directly applies to a board so that I can modify the instructions to suit my case should that part differ.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Similarly, I never was able to figure out what exactly the dual-head daughterboard &lt;em&gt;is&lt;/em&gt; despite some effort, and that was back when the site existed still. The documentation was never the best; it was fine up until you need to replace the firmware or figure out what exactly is actually in there, since most of this seemingly wasn't actually written down. IIRC, they even said some time later that they no longer shipped with it, so I have no idea.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user14313" LastEditorDisplayName="user14313" LastEditDate="2019-01-23T22:41:58.917" LastActivityDate="2019-01-23T22:41:58.917" Title="Printrbot Metal Plus wireless printing with ESP3D" Tags="|hardware|serial-connection|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8050" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8051" CreationDate="2019-01-24T00:42:51.380" Score="2" ViewCount="250" Body="&lt;p&gt;I need to print a flexible, hollow &quot;sleeve&quot; or &quot;cover&quot; for an elongated part, kind of like a soft &quot;skin&quot; for a &quot;finger&quot; (see pic). I'm not sure how to approach the hollow space problem, i.e. how to print a flexible surface that is above an enclosed, hollow space. I could print supports inside, but they'd be hard to remove from inside the space, because I can't quite access all corners with a tool from outside. I could print this in 2 parts (&quot;bottom&quot; / &quot;walls&quot; + &quot;ceiling&quot; separately), but I'd prefer not to glue if I don't have to. Any ideas how to approach this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lTliF.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lTliF.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14316" LastEditorUserId="14316" LastEditDate="2019-01-24T00:54:18.893" LastActivityDate="2019-01-24T06:56:16.023" Title="Flexible filament how to print a hollow &quot;sleeve&quot;" Tags="|support-structures|flexible|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8051" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8050" CreationDate="2019-01-24T06:56:16.023" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Print orientation is usually the key to print with a minimum of supports. If you print this part with the sharp point down, you will get some support structures on the outside for overhang support to prevent it from tipping over, but no support on the inside.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2019-01-24T06:56:16.023" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8052" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8040" CreationDate="2019-01-24T08:55:32.210" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your printer basically has 2 problems;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;stringing, and&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;layer shifting&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The second problem is most probably the result of the first issue. Excessive stringing leads to a lot of material outside the print object, when this clutters, the nozzle could get caught up and cause hindering of movement of a certain axis to result in a shifted layer print as the printer is not aware of this shift, it will continue the print from the shifted reference point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From your second experiment you see that a larger layer height does not show excessive stringing and the print has therefore not been hindered by caught-up material to finish the product without layer shifting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is key to solve the stringing issue; stringing is the result of filament being extruded by pressure build-up in the nozzle that &quot;leaks&quot; out of the nozzle on travel movement of the print head. You will probably not see this happening when you print a single product; it is typically seen when printing multiple objects on the build plate. This usually implies that the printer need to be properly tuned. It is up to you to find the correct settings; test print objects, like calibration prints, help you find these correct settings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Important print parameters to fight stringing are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;retraction, (do you retract enough prior to movement?)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;coasting, (do you stop in time with extruding to make use of the overpressure in the nozzle?)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;travel speed, (do you move fast enough to minimize the amount of filament leaking out?)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;print temperature, (do you print at a temperature where the filament doesn't get too fluid?)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;print part cooling, (do you have sufficient cooling?)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you optimized this, the stringing should be gone and the change of layer shifting should have reduced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2019-01-24T08:55:32.210" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8053" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-01-24T12:40:37.363" Score="2" ViewCount="251" Body="&lt;p&gt;I got myself an Ender 3 printer, put it together and tried the test g-code, worked fine. But i sometimes have problems with under extrusion, as shown in the picture below.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TwDK7.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TwDK7.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Under extrusion visible to the left while the part to the right is fine&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you can see, the part to the left is almost not printed, but the part to the right is fine. These &quot;holes&quot; are a lot of places, and i dont understand what is causing a temporary clog or whatever the problem may be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyone know something about this problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6874" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-01-25T07:41:49.070" LastActivityDate="2019-01-25T07:41:49.070" Title="Periodical under extrusion with Slic3r" Tags="|extrusion|slic3r|troubleshooting|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8054" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5935" CreationDate="2019-01-24T19:11:33.057" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;While trying to find a soloution to this problem I came across &lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,192082&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this forum post&lt;/a&gt;, which led me to &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:31581&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Parametric two-part mold generator for OpenSCAD&lt;/a&gt;&quot; on Thingiverse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A set of parametric OpenSCAD scripts that generate ready-to-print two-part molds from arbitrary STL models. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;These scripts can be used to generate either square (with or without&#xA;  rounded corners) or circular two-part molds and are fully&#xA;  parameterized to make it easy to adapt for your application.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's an example from Thingiverse.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YY31p.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YY31p.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;A parametric two-part mold, and casted object&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can find a download, install instructions or source code for OpenSCAD &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.openscad.org/downloads.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14324" LastActivityDate="2019-01-24T19:11:33.057" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8055" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-01-24T20:29:24.273" Score="4" ViewCount="3597" Body="&lt;p&gt;When slicing with Slic3r Prusa edition the top layer of most models turns out pretty bad. There are usually small gaps or weird patterns. This does not happen with Ultimaker Cura, it will have a nice smooth top layer. Is there anything settings wise that I can do in Slic3r to get the same quality of top layer as Ultimaker Cura?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HGc8C.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HGc8C.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Slic3r&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vbDHj.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vbDHj.png&quot; alt=&quot;Cura&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9938" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-01-25T07:39:36.813" LastActivityDate="2019-03-28T12:30:55.123" Title="Slic3r top layer issues, small gaps, weird extruder paths" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|slicing|slic3r|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8057" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-01-24T21:00:27.577" Score="1" ViewCount="1190" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Ciclop (HE3D version) scanner ready to try to use, but it seems the Horus software is hopelessly bitrotted. It has breakage from API-level changes at least in the Python bindings for OpenGL, OpenCV, matplotlib, and wxPython, and possibly also incompatibility with the V4L2 camera drivers for Linux versions later than whatever the authors were using at the time. After attempting to fix those as best I can, I'm still getting no output from the camera. (Note: The camera works fine with other apps and OpenCV test program, so it's not a camera problem.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is anyone using the Horus software successfully? Are there forks or alternate software that are usable, or exact details on what historical operating system and Python ecosystem version is needed to make it work?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2019-01-28T07:10:48.447" Title="Resources on getting horus/ciclop scanners to work?" Tags="|software|scanning|open-source|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2019-01-31T10:41:42.653" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8058" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8053" CreationDate="2019-01-25T07:30:53.953" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;What you experience is temporary under-extrusion. This could be a typical result of friction in the supply of filament to the extruder. I've run into this also a week ago when the shaft of the spool holder caught a plastic bag next to it which wrapped around the shaft creating a lot of friction. Friction can also be caused by filament that gets entangled on the spool, this is usually a problem if the spool unrolls too freely on the holder (too less friction);it unrolls a few windings, and then tightens those entangling the filament. Also, if you use 2.85&amp;nbsp;mm filament on small diameter spools, the last stretch of filament has the smallest curvature and as such requires the most force to pull it to the extruder (this can go in steps).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Furthermore, slipping of the extruder gear is also a (rare) possibility (when using a stepper directly to drive the extruder gear, a flat spot on the stepper shaft should prevent this).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Be sure to inspect the filament release from spool to extruder and try to see (and listen!) what happens when you print a part when you experience the under-extrusion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2019-01-25T07:30:53.953" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8059" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8080" CreationDate="2019-01-25T09:36:01.657" Score="1" ViewCount="16871" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've started printing PETG recently and I'm happy with results so far, awesome strength and good looking (except for stringing). But I've noticed that PETG prints better with more distance nozzle-plate than usual, and under-extrusion make parts looking better than both normal/over-extrusion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What distance nozzle-plate is optimal for PETG? (i.e. the distance between nozzle and build plate during calibration)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What extrusion percentage is optimal for PETG?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14228" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-01-27T23:29:57.723" LastActivityDate="2020-09-06T22:51:35.087" Title="PETG nozzle clearance and extrusion multiplier" Tags="|petg|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8060" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8012" CreationDate="2019-01-25T11:56:31.507" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Try to re-compile the gcode, sometimes the slicer &quot;freaks out&quot; whilst writing the file. Which slicer are you using? (Cura, Slic3r, Repetier, etc.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I sometimes have that errors, and giving that they do seem quite consistent in shape in the pics I would say that's the issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14335" LastEditorUserId="14335" LastEditDate="2019-01-28T07:05:21.380" LastActivityDate="2019-01-28T07:05:21.380" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8061" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8012" CreationDate="2019-01-25T19:40:49.940" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Turns out the blower on the extruder was not plugged in at the factory. Now it's printing fine. Thank you all for the help and support. &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qNkBE.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qNkBE.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14337" LastActivityDate="2019-01-25T19:40:49.940" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8062" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7913" CreationDate="2019-01-26T05:14:12.683" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I apologize I should have got back with you guys sooner. I downloaded a fresh copy of the Marlin firmware again and pulled up the Sprinter config.H folder. Since the firmwares are very similar I was able to just glance at my Sprinter firmware and noticed certain endstops for my optical endstops required &quot;pull ups&quot; to correctly work. I thought I had tried this before but either I did some thing wrong the first time or I didn't save the changes, who knows. Thanks to every one trying to help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14141" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-01-26T07:26:07.743" LastActivityDate="2019-01-26T07:26:07.743" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8064" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-01-26T11:32:04.963" Score="3" ViewCount="2007" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.monoprice.uk/products/monoprice-maker-ultimate-3d-printer-uk&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Monoprice Maker Ultimate 3D Printer&lt;/a&gt; and have tried to replace the nozzle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The nozzles I bought turned out to be too small.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JIZt7.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Imgur&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are the important specifications of a nozzle?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Thread size&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Thread length&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;That plastic tube thing?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Monoprice is very bad at publishing the specs, can I work it out with a caliper?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13813" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-12-10T06:03:26.897" LastActivityDate="2022-04-20T19:25:57.817" Title="Correct nozzle replacement" Tags="|nozzle|monoprice-maker-ultimate|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8065" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8064" CreationDate="2019-01-26T12:37:43.497" Score="3" Body="&lt;h2&gt;What part fits?&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A replacement nozzle needs to fit 3 parameters:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Thread diameter and pitch need to match up, to allow mounting&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Thread length should be close to the original to allow secure fastening&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The style needs to fit: there are quite some styles of nozzle - most are not lined, yours is PTFE lined to the nozzle (see also &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/7497/can-the-filament-tube-be-outside-of-the-nozzle/7498#7498&quot;&gt;Can the filament tube be outside of the nozzle?&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Monoprice nozzles are &lt;strong&gt;not&lt;/strong&gt; compatible with what is known as Ultimaker Mk8 or E3D style (which you bought). They are Ultimaker Mk10 style.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;What's a good nozzle?&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, what separates a good replacement nozzle from a bad one?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;good machining to leave no burs and a smooth interior.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a good inner geometry that allows easy flow&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;outlet hole is to size&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Finding premade replacement parts&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a first measure to not get the wrong replacement parts, make sure to add the manufacturer of your printer to the search and then check the thread diameter if given. In your case, you might have to add Monoprice or Toymaker, as those use this style of nozzle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Reverse engineering a Nozzle&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, which measurements do you need to reverse engineer it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;nozzle front pitch angle&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;hex head flat-to-flat &amp;amp; hight&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;recess diameter &amp;amp; hight&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;screw shaft relief diameter &amp;amp; hight&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;thread outer diameter &amp;amp; length&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;inner bore diameter at entry (and in case of a lined one: after the step) &amp;amp; corresponding depth of drilling&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;amount of chamfering&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With these, it's possible to do do a CNC model or a sketch of the outside and produce pretty much blanks or shells on a lathe that just need their last little bit of drilling... and here comes the tricky part: till now, all could be accessed from the outside. We are missing one profile though: the last piece of the inner bore geometry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This one can't easily be measured, but if one can push some plastic in, let it cool and then pull it out, one might get a molding of it, which might allow to reverse engineer a fitting drill for the last piece.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2022-04-20T19:25:57.817" LastActivityDate="2022-04-20T19:25:57.817" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8066" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8064" CreationDate="2019-01-26T16:57:24.063" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a so-called MK10 nozzle, it is larger than the normal nozzles you find (as you found out).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are quite a few questions on this nozzle, with e.g. &lt;a href=&quot;/a/7366&quot;&gt;this answer&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;/a/7512&quot;&gt;this answer&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This nozzle uses M7 (metric threads of 7&amp;nbsp;mm) to have more room to fit the PTFE tube (white tube) in the nozzle itself. This tube forms the barrier between the heating source and the filament feed so that it does not melt too soon. You can find these nozzles on those typical auction websites by searching for &quot;MK10 and M7&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you have ordered the correct nozzle you could reuse the existing PTFE liner if it has not degraded or damaged, or buy replacement PTFE tube of 4&amp;nbsp;mm outer diameter and 1.9 or 2&amp;nbsp;mm inner diameter and cut a similar sized replacement liner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-01-27T09:15:39.753" LastActivityDate="2019-01-27T09:15:39.753" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8067" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-01-26T23:09:33.873" Score="4" ViewCount="245" Body="&lt;p&gt;This picture pretty much shows the problem:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/afrjq.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/afrjq.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Image of failed parts&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I print on a CR-10 and this thing is pretty much just a problem factory. Anyways, the latest problem that was never there before is that for some reason the first 2-4mm of the print are totally messed up like in the picture. That isnt that much of a problem for bigger parts (as in the right one) but smaller things such as the pi-coin (left) are absolutely useless now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Things ive already checked that haven't fixed the problem:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Different PLA filament types (geetech, Janbex)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Different nozzles (0.3mm, 0.4mm)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Variations of smaller line withs (up to .05mm smaller)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Nozzle temperatures between 180°C and 215°C&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bed temperatures between room temp. and 80°C&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Flowrates 85% of actual flowrate up to 105%&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Printing speeds of 30mm/s to 80mm/s&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Different location on the buildplate in case that parts of the rail are worn out&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cooling fan active all the time, off all the time, off for the first layers&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Checked bed leveling&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Checked extrusion&#xA;-Variations of all of these things&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is noticable that the first few lines are layed down perfectly but when filling out the circles (in the case of these models) the layer becomes very rough. After that every new layer just suffers from the quality of the previous one. There is also a scratching sound when the nozzle moves over the object. I slice with Cura (latest version) and Z-hop is active.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also checked the Z-rod and it at least looks fine to me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am really running out of ideas. I even checked every screw on the printer (and found out that the x-Rail wasn't perfectly straight but that didnt fix it either).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This problem occured after I replaced the entire print head with a new one since the old one kept clogging.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14345" LastActivityDate="2019-01-28T10:32:51.383" Title="Lower Layers are messy" Tags="|print-quality|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8068" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8067" CreationDate="2019-01-27T05:52:07.823" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Referring to the scratching, this could indicate that the nozzle is a little too close to the bed. This can be caused by a non-uniform bed, but that is unlikely in your case as you have tried printing on different areas of the build plate, this implies that the bed is correctly levelled. Still, the nozzle may be too close while having a perfect level bed (easily checked by using a metal ruler on its side over the bed). You could print an adjustable Z endstop trigger mechanism, there can be a few found on Thingiverse, e.g. &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2727769&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this one&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2199417&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this one&lt;/a&gt;, it should enable you to fine-tune the nozzle to bed distance by turning the adjustment screw; the following image shows an example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kE5iJ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kE5iJ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;CR-10 adjustable Z endstop height&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that a recent &lt;a href=&quot;/q/8022/&quot;&gt;question&lt;/a&gt; has a &lt;a href=&quot;/a/8074/&quot;&gt;solution&lt;/a&gt; that describes that the rollers had too much play on the profile.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-01-28T10:32:51.383" LastActivityDate="2019-01-28T10:32:51.383" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8070" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4293" CreationDate="2019-01-27T16:07:24.570" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had this problem since last week. It is definitely choked nuzzle. You have to clean your nozzle, some dirt, dust or too much burned Pla could restrict PLA flow, and exc. motor pushes it with tac tac sound. I have cleaned 2 hours ago and everything works perfectly.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14357" LastActivityDate="2019-01-27T16:07:24.570" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8071" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-01-27T16:40:50.063" Score="3" ViewCount="96" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am running the newest version of OctoPrint server on my Windows 10 PC, and accessing it with Mozilla Firefox on the same PC.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also installed Cura 15.04 and selected the Printrbot Simple profile, and pointed to the Cura install path in the OctoPrint client so that it can use it for slicing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I plugged in my printer and it was recognized by OctoPrint. The nozzle temperature is correctly shown, and I can turn the fans on/off in the control tab.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I cannot do anything else in the control tab, including moving the axes. I have not imported any sort of printer profile into OctoPrint, since I cannot figure out how to or where to find my printer's information. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There has not been any kind of calibration process I can find either.&#xA;Can anybody help me find a print profile/calibrate my printer, and just get it working so I can move the axes/print something out?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14358" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-01-27T23:08:56.963" LastActivityDate="2019-01-31T20:53:20.553" Title="Printrbot Simple + OctoPrint on PC not working" Tags="|calibration|motor|octoprint|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8072" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8071" CreationDate="2019-01-27T23:25:01.410" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Before any axis can move the printer must be homed correctly (&lt;code&gt;G28&lt;/code&gt; command, or an equivalent home button, there are 2: an X/Y and a Z button). A correct printer profile must also be defined; this profile contains some bed geometry and speed data, these are some basic values that are easy to add through the wrench button and &quot;printer profiles&quot; menu item.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that Cura 15.04 is &lt;strong&gt;very&lt;/strong&gt; old, more recent version with far more options and better stability can be downloaded, but won't work integrated in OctoPrint, instead you download the most recent version of Ultimaker Cura directly from Ultimaker.com slice your product and store the G-code file to later import this into OctoPrint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please take care in choosing an optimal power plan in Windows 10, if your computer goes to sleep during a print (or updates or crashes) your print is lost; using a Raspberry Pi is far more safe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-01-31T20:53:20.553" LastActivityDate="2019-01-31T20:53:20.553" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8073" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8059" CreationDate="2019-01-27T23:42:31.940" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have printed literally kilometers of 2.85&amp;nbsp;mm PETG filament on various 3D printers, and frankly, I do not share your opinion on an increased calibration distance/offset (like using thicker paper when levelling you build plate or increasing the Z offset by G-code &lt;code&gt;M851&lt;/code&gt;). I even lower the default first layer height in Ultimaker Cura (0.2&amp;nbsp;mm prints fine). I am aware that on the web there are folks that do increase the calibration offset, or increase the first layer height, but that should not be necessary on a well tuned printer with sufficient first layer adhesion (e.g. printing on glass with 3DLAC).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Furthermore, the best extrusion multiplier for printing PETG is 100&amp;nbsp;% on a well tuned extruder for a constant diameter quality filament brand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2019-01-27T23:42:31.940" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8074" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8022" CreationDate="2019-01-28T04:44:22.570" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;After much trial and error, I think I finally figured out the solution. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even though I could get better prints by tweaking with the temperatures, I could never totally eliminate the problem. The better I made it look by cooling down the bed, the more likely it would break free and the print would fail completely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At one point though I happened to print something taller, and interestingly enough a similar band of ugly layers appeared higher up in the print as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I started a closer inspection of the Z axis rollers. The Ender 3 has a funky setup where there are 3 rollers at each end of the X axis. Two are fixed and one can be adjusted to change the tension of the rollers against the Z rails. What I discovered was that a couple of the non-adjustable rollers weren't terribly tight and could be turned by fairly easily with my fingers. At the same time, the adjustable rollers are starting to wear a groove. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On a hunch, I decided to try re-adjusting the tension so that I could no longer turn any of them with my fingers. It definitely had an effect...now the bed was too high and it would no longer extrude the first layer because the nozzle was too close. This required going through the complete bed leveling process to get it back in spec.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once I got it re-leveled, low and behold it's printing like new! The height is coming out spot-on too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/81uYN.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/81uYN.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Measuring the calibration cube&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suspect what was happening is that the rollers were too loose and at certain heights they we allowing movement in the Z axis. Perhaps there is a flat spot that was allowing the X rail to droop, then once it got past the flat spot it would print cleanly again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I haven't printed anything tall enough yet to see if the bad layers still show up higher in the print, if they do, I think it is probably a sign that I need to replace some rollers. In the mean time, I'm thrilled to be getting decent prints again!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Update: This ended up NOT being the solution to my problem. However it does seem to be related. As I mentioned in the comments, the problem returned after a few days of the printer sitting unused. I have since been able to get it printing better by going the opposite route - loosening up the Z axis bearings. At the moment it is printing somewhat better, but still not perfect. I am also having under extrusion issues when may or may not be related. I have ordered some new rollers to see if that helps since some of them had a pretty good groove worn in them. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another Update: I replaced several of the Z rollers that had become grooved with some that claimed to be a little harder material. So far this seems to have mostly cleared up the issue. I have now completed several large print jobs and the first layers have been coming out pretty good. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also ended up taking out the Capricorn tubing on the extruder. The extruder skips were becoming quite bad and causing under extrusion issues throughout the print. The Capricorn has a little smaller inside diameter than the stock tubing and I wondered if it was too tight on some filaments. I went back to some plain white cheap PTFE and that problem mostly went away as well. I still hear the &quot;click&quot; once in a while, but it is fairly rare. I may try tweaking the motor current a little to see if I can get rid of that. All in all though, the printer seems to be printing about as good as it ever has.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12559" LastEditorUserId="12559" LastEditDate="2019-02-19T14:49:50.990" LastActivityDate="2019-02-19T14:49:50.990" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8077" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8057" CreationDate="2019-01-28T07:10:48.447" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't know if this will work but BQ commercializes a Ciclops scanner and have some downloads in their webpage (&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.bq.com/en/support/ciclop/support-sheet&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.bq.com/en/support/ciclop/support-sheet&lt;/a&gt;). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are different Horus and driver versions, maybe some will work for you(?).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope it helps!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14335" LastActivityDate="2019-01-28T07:10:48.447" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8080" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8059" CreationDate="2019-01-28T18:15:46.243" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here is the mental framework that I use to reason about PETG: In a nutshell you want to &lt;strong&gt;avoid nozzle contact&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unlike most other plastics, PETG sticks to hot brass really well and every time the nozzle moves through material it will pick up some of it. Material around the the nozzle then sticks to a random place creating a blob. It can also cook, turn transparent brown and drop into the print. Investing in a plated nozzle or silicone socks helps but doesn't eliminate the problem completely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now to the questions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;1) Nozzle Distance&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Distance to the plate has to be such that the plastic is laid down precisely without the nozzle dragging through the material (remember, avoid nozzle contact). Precise lines require the build plate to be level and the flow perfectly calibrated. If nozzle is too low and/or the layer is over-extruded then PETG will stick to the nozzle and rip the lines off the plate again. Inspecting the first layer is required for best results. I like to print a layer test pattern &lt;strong&gt;after&lt;/strong&gt; the flow has been calibrated and tweak Z offset in 0.02mm increments until it's perfect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With many other plastics it's ok to have a large amount of &quot;squish&quot; in the first layer as it helps to work around minor leveling issues. This is where the cookie-cutter recommendation to raise the nozzle when printing with PETG is coming from.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;2) Extrusion percentage&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Flow has to be near &lt;strong&gt;perfect&lt;/strong&gt;. Down to one percent perfect. Even a slightest over extrusion and some of the excess material will end up on the nozzle when it makes the next pass. Under extrusion isn't great either as this can lead to holes and affect overhangs where thinner strands of a previous pass may not be enough for the next line to stick to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are two critical parameters: diameter of the filament and extrusion multiplier. This is how to determine the settings:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Measure filament diameter. I use an average of ten measurements over about a meter (yard) of filament taken in multiple orientations.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Calibrate the extrusion multiplier using a &lt;a href=&quot;https://help.prusa3d.com/article/d9j1xdg7vj-extrusion-multiplier-calibration&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;method described in Prusa&#xA;manual&lt;/a&gt;:&#xA;I print a 40x40x40 cube in vase mode with extrusion multiplier set&#xA;to 1 and fixed extrusion width (e.g. 0.45mm), measure the wall&#xA;thickness in three spots on every side, average the results and&#xA;compute the correction factor.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I perform flow calibration for every new roll of filament.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14319" LastEditorUserId="14319" LastEditDate="2019-01-28T18:31:34.043" LastActivityDate="2019-01-28T18:31:34.043" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8081" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-01-28T18:21:42.303" Score="1" ViewCount="1224" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to convert a .nii file to a .stl file using &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.instructables.com/id/3D-print-your-own-brain/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this tutorial&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since my computer runs Windows, I'm running FreeSurfer (Linux) on VirtualBox. I was unable to allow Guest Additions, so I downloaded my .nii file by email. I ran this command to extract the data from the file using FreeSurfer: &lt;code&gt;recon-all -s mybrain -all -i /home/fsuser/Desktop/brainscan.nii&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately, it did not work, and I received this error message:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&#xA;&quot;WARNING: tcsh v6.17.06 has an exit code bug! Please update tcsh!&#xA;&#xA;ERROR: Flag -i/home/fsuser/Desktop/anat_stripped.nii unrecognized. -s mybrain -all -i/home/fsuser/Desktop/anat_stripped.nii Linux xubuntu-VirtualBox 3.2.0-23-generic #36-Ubuntu SMP Tue Apr 10 20:41:14 UTC 2012 i686 i686 i386 GNU/Linux&#xA;&#xA;recon-all -s mybrain exited with ERRORS at Fri Jan 25 20:08:01 EST 2019&#xA;&#xA;For more details, see the log file To report a problem, see http://surfer.nmr.mgh.harvard.edu/fswiki/BugReporting&quot;&#xA;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think the problem is that I don't have an application in VirtualBox that can open a .nii file. I tried to download Mango, but when I unzipped the file, there was no executable. What should I do so my .nii file can be converted to a .stl file?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14374" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-01-28T20:53:28.230" LastActivityDate="2019-01-28T20:53:28.230" Title="Converting .nii file to .stl file" Tags="|file-formats|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8082" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8081" CreationDate="2019-01-28T19:04:03.890" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Looks like you didn't include a space between the -i flag and the file, though you did include the space in this question. Try running the command but include spaces between your flags and file directories:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;recon-all -s mybrain -all -i /home/fsuser/Desktop/brainscan.nii&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13883" LastActivityDate="2019-01-28T19:04:03.890" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8083" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-01-29T02:33:43.447" Score="1" ViewCount="822" Body="&lt;p&gt;I wanted to add a cooling fan to my Prusa i3. The board used by this printer is an MKS GEN L v1.0, such as this one:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MK0Z8.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MK0Z8.png&quot; alt=&quot;MKS GEN L V1.0 board overview&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The cooling fan plug seems to be the white one on the top left corner, just below the step motor drivers. I plug a working 5&amp;nbsp;V DC fan, but it is not rotating. What could be the cause? The cooling fan has been enabled permanently using Slic3r to generate the G-code I am printing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The board is powered by a 12&amp;nbsp;V power supply.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there some modifications to do on the embedded software side?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9438" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-01-29T23:06:18.770" LastActivityDate="2019-01-30T08:20:03.570" Title="Prusa i3 improvement - cooling fan" Tags="|prusa-i3|print-fan|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8084" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8086" CreationDate="2019-01-29T06:35:23.410" Score="4" ViewCount="2978" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to get the ROKO (SN04-N) sensor to work with my Anet A8. First of all, while trying to screw it to the extruder, I tightened it too much and sort of broke the acrylic plate... sort of. I had to use a very thin steel plate with two holes to enforce the acrylic plate. It still works.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, I followed instructions in this &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uY4GlbV4kGU&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;video&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;em&gt;(Please note that the video is not in English.)&lt;/em&gt; After the first &quot;Auto Home&quot; operation, the guy draws on the bed and then measures. My measurements are slightly different.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the 19-minute mark, the guy is hard-coding the values but I don’t understand how he calculated them? My measured offsets are: &lt;code&gt;X_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER 16&lt;/code&gt; and &lt;code&gt;Y_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER 58&lt;/code&gt;. In his video, his calculations were 18&amp;nbsp;mm for the X offset and 57&amp;nbsp;mm for the Y offset. Either way, I’m not able to compile the code as a sanity check fails:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&#xA;`static_assert(FRONT_PROBE_BED_POSITION &gt;= MIN_PROBE_Y, &quot;FRONT_PROBE_BED_POSITION is outside the probe region.&quot;);`&#xA;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are the sensor limitation values from the configuration file:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;// Set the boundaries for probing (where the probe can reach).&#xA;#define LEFT_PROBE_BED_POSITION 20 //MIN_PROBE_EDGE&#xA;#define RIGHT_PROBE_BED_POSITION 200 //(X_BED_SIZE - MIN_PROBE_EDGE)&#xA;#define FRONT_PROBE_BED_POSITION 47 //MIN_PROBE_EDGE&#xA;#define BACK_PROBE_BED_POSITION 200 //(Y_BED_SIZE - MIN_PROBE_EDGE)&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What am I doing wrong?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that I'm using Marlin Firmware v1.1.9&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12450" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-01-29T11:46:14.713" LastActivityDate="2019-02-02T06:25:25.247" Title="ANet A8 running Marlin v1.1.9 Auto Bedlevel with ROKO SN04-N" Tags="|marlin|anet-a8|bed-leveling|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8085" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8083" CreationDate="2019-01-29T07:32:21.173" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The MKS GEN L v1.0 is a board that according to the information found on the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.aliexpress.com/item/controller-PCB-board-MKS-Gen-L-V1-0-integrated-mainboard-compatible-Ramps1-4-Mega2560-R3-support/32802151924.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;web&lt;/a&gt; operates to run on a voltage between 12 - 24 V, this means that all peripherals on the board should match this voltage. A 5 V fan should therefore not be connected.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;First&lt;/strong&gt;, you need to establish that you are using the correct fan port on the board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Which port to use?&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you take a closer look at the board layout you will find that the top fan connector cannot be controlled, it is a fixed voltage power supply of 12 - 24 V (so basically depending on the power that is supplied to the board).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This can be seen from the board layout:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oYqYr.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oYqYr.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;MKS GEN L V1.0 board schematics&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or zoomed in on the top left corner:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Jak41.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Jak41.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;MKS GEN L V1.0 board schematics top left corner zoomed in&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that no pin number is given, this means that it is a constant power supply fan header. A 5 V fan attaching to this port does not seem to be a good solution, it can easily burn out the fan electronics. This fan should match the voltage of the power supply you use, so when powered by a 12 V power supply, attach a 12 V fan or a 24 V fan when the board is powered by 24 V.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As said, this fan port is not controlled by PWM and can therefore not be scheduled from within your slicer, however, it makes an excellent fan for cooling the cold end of the nozzle assembly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To schedule a fan for print part cooling through the slicer you need to attach the fan to the other fan header below the X stepper driver on the left, if you look closely to the schematics, you see that that is a fan that can be scheduled using the digital pin &lt;code&gt;D9&lt;/code&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vYEH8.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vYEH8.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Print cooling fan header of MKS GEN L V1.0 board&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that this fan also operates at the voltage specified by your power supply; a 5 V fan &lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;should not&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt; be connected to this port either!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;em&gt;solution to your problem&lt;/em&gt; is to &lt;em&gt;buy a fan of the correct voltage and connect it to the correct fan header&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you have tried connecting a fan to the lower fan port, and conclude that the fan has never rotated but still rotates when supplied with a correct voltage, you need to ask yourself if this port is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;configured correctly in the firmware, or&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;not broken.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now that you know where to connect the fan for print part cooling, connect a fan that matches the power supply voltage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Why is the fan not working?&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The microprocessor of the board schedules and reads various ports or pins based on the firmware it runs. This implies that the setup of the firmware is very important in the use of certain ports. It is therefore important to research if this port:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;was meant to be used by the printer manufacturer (so enabled in the firmware)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;or board is controlled by which firmware&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you establish that it is enabled (e.g. the manufacturer describes that the printer has a print part cooling fan), you should try printing a part where you enable the print fan in the slicer software. If not, you need to change the firmware configuration to enable the fan. If this does not work, you should address your attention to why it is not working. A multimeter can be used to read the voltage of the fan MOSFET output or the D9 output. If either one of those doesn't record a voltage, your board or MOSFET are probably broken. To fix this, you could solder an unused pin to the fan MOSFET or a new MOSFET and change the firmware. Another option is to buy a new board and flash a new configuration of a printer firmware onto it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:29:41.667" LastActivityDate="2019-01-30T08:20:03.570" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8086" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8084" CreationDate="2019-01-29T09:17:54.323" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Too bad you broke the acrylic plate (nice temporary fix though), but you can easily print a replacement part once your machine is up and running.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Probe positioning is defined in the Marlin configuration as:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&#xA; *      +-- BACK ---+&#xA; *      |           |&#xA; *    L |    (+) P  | R -- probe (20,20)&#xA; *    E |           | I&#xA; *    F | (-) N (+) | G -- nozzle (10,10)&#xA; *    T |           | H&#xA; *      |    (-)    | T&#xA; *      |           |&#xA; *      O-- FRONT --+&#xA; *    (0,0)&#xA;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This implies that your sensor is located on the back-right when facing the machine and need to have the following constants set:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&#xA;#define X_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER 16   // X offset: &lt;strike&gt;-left&lt;/strike&gt;  +right  [of the nozzle]&#xA;#define Y_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER 58   // Y offset: &lt;strike&gt;-front&lt;/strike&gt; +behind [the nozzle]&#xA;#define Z_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER 0    // Z offset: -below +above  [the nozzle]&#xA;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In order to calculate the correct limits of travel for the sensor, you need to subtract the offset values from the bed size at the max limits.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An additional offset may be required for some sensors, so please add an additional offset in the configuration by defining:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#define MIN_PROBE_EDGE 10&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As the sensor is off-center with respect to your nozzle, one can only assume that you have no extra space to move the whole printhead and therefore need to confine the head within the limits of the max/min bed size (there should be some extra space, this can be seen from the offsets for the origin as in values for &lt;code&gt;X_MIN_POS&lt;/code&gt; and &lt;code&gt;Y_MIN_POS&lt;/code&gt;, but for the sake of simplicity these will not be taken into account).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically, your positive Y and positive X offset result in the following schematic.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ftdPk.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ftdPk.png&quot; alt=&quot;Schematic of the bed and the sensor limits&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or, if you include the &lt;code&gt;#define MIN_PROBE_EDGE [value]&lt;/code&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/v2AGi.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/v2AGi.png&quot; alt=&quot;Schematic of the bed and the sensor limits including MIN_PROBE_EDGE&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bed limits for the sensor then will need to be calculated based on the values of your offset of the sensor. E.g. when your nozzle is at (X=0, Y-0), or (0, 0), your sensor is at (16, 58). If you don't want to move the head further left and forward (to respect to origin as limit!), this is the minimum position of the sensor. When the sensor is at the back-right position of (220, 220), the actual head is at (220-16=204, 220-58=162).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This means that the limits for the sensor without a minimum offset are (16, 58) and (220, 220):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&#xA;#define LEFT_PROBE_BED_POSITION (X_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER + MIN_PROBE_EDGE)&#xA;#define RIGHT_PROBE_BED_POSITION (X_BED_SIZE - MIN_PROBE_EDGE)&#xA;#define FRONT_PROBE_BED_POSITION (Y_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER + MIN_PROBE_EDGE)&#xA;#define BACK_PROBE_BED_POSITION (Y_BED_SIZE - MIN_PROBE_EDGE)&#xA;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;would translate with a &lt;code&gt;MIN_PROBE_EDGE = 0&lt;/code&gt; to:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&#xA;#define LEFT_PROBE_BED_POSITION 16&#xA;#define RIGHT_PROBE_BED_POSITION 220 &#xA;#define FRONT_PROBE_BED_POSITION 58&#xA;#define BACK_PROBE_BED_POSITION 220&#xA;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and would translate with a &lt;code&gt;MIN_PROBE_EDGE = 10&lt;/code&gt; to:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&#xA;#define LEFT_PROBE_BED_POSITION 26&#xA;#define RIGHT_PROBE_BED_POSITION 210 &#xA;#define FRONT_PROBE_BED_POSITION 68&#xA;#define BACK_PROBE_BED_POSITION 210&#xA;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The assertion in code: &lt;code&gt;FRONT_PROBE_BED_POSITION &amp;gt;= MIN_PROBE_Y&lt;/code&gt; would now translate to (58 &gt;= 58) (or 68 &gt;= 58), in your case it was (47 &gt;= 58) which clearly is not true.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Please look into &lt;a href=&quot;/a/7399/&quot;&gt;this answer&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;/a/7465/&quot;&gt;this answer&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;/a/6874/&quot;&gt;this answer&lt;/a&gt; for more information.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-01-29T12:59:25.493" LastActivityDate="2019-01-29T12:59:25.493" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8088" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-01-29T16:57:26.097" Score="1" ViewCount="549" Body="&lt;p&gt;Probably the question sounds a little strange; however, I am looking for a filament which is breakable and not so steady and reliable as PLA. I want to print parts similar to the following gears for instance (They are from Lego, a children's toy). &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dsvt3.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dsvt3.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They should break after some time or in any way become unusable after an accidental period (1 minute to several days) of use. Yes, you read right: I want to print parts that are frangible and probably will break! I plan to use Ultimaker 3 as 3D printer. So I'm looking for a suitable filament. Maybe I can merge two types of filament?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could Ultimaker's TPU filament (&lt;a href=&quot;https://ultimaker.com/en/products/materials/tpu-95a&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://ultimaker.com/en/products/materials/tpu-95a&lt;/a&gt;) be useful for my purpose? Or can anybody recommend me another filament that can be useful for my intended use? The primary purpose is that the printed part is not stable enough to serve its original purpose for longer than a foreseeable time (1 minute to several days). I appreciate your advice and ideas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: I don't want to sell them; I want to use them for my &lt;strong&gt;private&lt;/strong&gt; project. So please no legal issues. They are not helpful for my question. I don't ask for legal advice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14380" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2019-02-06T02:37:54.733" LastActivityDate="2019-02-06T02:37:54.733" Title="Which is the right filiament type to print breakable children's toy parts such as small gears" Tags="|filament|ultimaker|filament-quality|filament-choice|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8089" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8088" CreationDate="2019-01-29T17:47:26.023" Score="2" Body="&lt;h2&gt;deliberate/planned obsolescence is the term you look for&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you design parts that break after some time, you plan their obsolescence. That you do by a deliberate choice of material and working conditions. Designing a part that will break after a certain time can be done by choosing the correct stresses that will make your chosen material break.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In a gear that is meant to break at certain stress, one can weaken the teeth or the sprues, so that normal operation stresses will very likely break the safety margin and destroy the gear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;is it a material choice?&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any material is suitable to make a planned break, as long as &lt;em&gt;the design&lt;/em&gt; is suitable. Performing a stress analysis of your part will tell you where to weaken it to enforce it will break - if the part was solid. As printed parts in FDM aren't solid, take the result with salt - it will tell &lt;em&gt;where&lt;/em&gt; but not &lt;em&gt;when&lt;/em&gt; it fails. Do the experiment for actual numbers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;is it a print setting thing?&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Besides deliberately under-engineering some part of the gear, a usually perfectly fine gear would lose a lot of strength by deliberately reducing how massive it is: the stability of a print is affected by the form and amount of the infill just as much as the number of shells. Some random setting examples:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1-shelled, 1-bottom/top-layer, 5% infill piece is very likely so fragile you might not get it off the build plate&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;these parameters at 2-5-10% results in a somewhat durable piece.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2-5-20% is more than twice as strong as 2-5-10%.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To find the exact breaking point of a setup, one might need to toy with the parameters and experiment. It might be interesting to use no top- or bottom-layers and thus turn to create all the &lt;em&gt;spokes&lt;/em&gt; of the gear in the shape of infill and outer shell. Also, some infills are better at withstanding forces than others - for example, Gyroid or Hex infill is rather stable on pressure while spaghetti is quite weak.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other parameters also can change the infill stability: speeding up the print of the infill compared to the shell and using a thinner line considerably weakens the infill, thus reducing the needed load to break it. This is a somewhat easy parameter to tweak if you want to go for breaking the spokes (see below).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;planned obsolescence and how to under-engineer safely&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sometimes, planned destruction is good for safety: a safety valve is supposed to break under overpressure to release the pressure in a safe way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But planned obsolescence can also be a safety risk: If a toy breaks under normal use, it is a safety hazard for the broken off parts can be swallowed by children. Another factor to look at is where broken off parts end up in the machinery - they might jam other pieces that are not meant to self-destruct and destroy them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Design the pieces to break in a safe way - the larger the chunks, the better you prevent them from going into places they should not.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Design the teeth to deform or melt rather than shearing off&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Design the axles to sheer free by losing their keying&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Design the spokes of the gears to break, separating gear rim from axle &amp;amp; hub, either of which goes nowhere due to the other gears and the mounting&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Encase the self-destruct gears in some sort of gearbox to prevent the pieces from going flying&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Industrial machinery design usually goes the melting way: Let's take a hand mixer. It contains a gearset that has one drive gear connected to a second gear, so that both mixers spin opposite. Under normal use, these spin pretty fast, creating heat from the friction. In a good design, these two gears are made from metal or a high heat tolerant polymer. But if one plans for having them break, these gears are made from a material that will heat under the friction in such a way, that after a set time (around 5 minutes), the teeth will be sufficiently weakened to deform and grind away, destroying them in the process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Preferred Material&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would actually deliberately under-design the gears for the expected loads and then go for a solid material printed in SLA or SLS from either a resin (which will break with pieces and bits going flying, so a gearbox is mandatory!) or a polyamide (nylon).  These parts would match the stress analysis fully.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If FDM is the only option, the material choice depends on the failure mode you opted for:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In case you opt for destruction from heat on the teeth or axle, a low melting material like PLA is perfectly fine, but make sure to engineer the chance of breaking teeth low. ABS can perform a little better but needs more heat (and thus more RPM) to self destruct.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In case of designing for a breaking failure of spokes or keying, PLA is an excellent choice, as it is sufficiently brittle.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;PETG is a good compromise between ABS deformability and PLA's printing ease.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Footnotes&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Gear Design&lt;br&gt;&lt;sup&gt;When designing your gears, keep in mind that gears are rather complicated. I actually advise to take a look on the gross oversimplification of &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q-XOM4E4RZQ&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;This Old Tony&lt;/a&gt; because it allows you to see where you can make teeth break very easily by design!&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;planned obsolescence and consumer rights&lt;br&gt;&lt;sup&gt;While planned obsolescence can be an important safety factor, planning obsolescence in consumer products for sale to break them after a calculated time is unethical and can be a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.twobirds.com/en/news/articles/2018/global/planned-obsolescence-and-consumers-rights&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;consumer rights violation.&lt;/a&gt; Remember, that legally demanded warranty and a right to repair exist in &lt;a href=&quot;https://equiterre.org/en/news/legislation-against-obsolescence&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;a lot of countries.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;LEGO is Copyrighted, Patented and Trademarked&lt;br&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Copying Lego designs would be a Trademark Violation, Patent infringement &lt;strong&gt;and&lt;/strong&gt; a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.copyright.gov/circs/circ15a.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;copyright&lt;/a&gt; violation by using their designs. They &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.beemlaw.com/billion-dollar-lego-patent/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;protect&lt;/a&gt; them.&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:29:41.667" LastActivityDate="2019-02-03T00:10:04.293" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8091" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8099" CreationDate="2019-01-29T23:11:59.720" Score="5" ViewCount="832" Body="&lt;p&gt;After uncommenting the &lt;code&gt;REPRAP_DISCOUNT_FULL_GRAPHIC_SMART_CONTROLLER&lt;/code&gt;, the display is blinking and no characters are shown on the screen, I have already switched the cables between &lt;code&gt;EXP1&lt;/code&gt; and &lt;code&gt;EXP2&lt;/code&gt;, but it did not succeed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14383" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-01-30T08:24:43.200" LastActivityDate="2020-11-26T13:40:28.587" Title="LCD full graphic smart controller, no character display and screen blinking" Tags="|marlin|full-graphic-smart-controller|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8092" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-01-30T09:08:51.127" Score="3" ViewCount="3168" Body="&lt;p&gt;I got things moving from the &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/8086/12450&quot;&gt;answer to a previous question&lt;/a&gt;. Now, since the base-video I'm following is non-English, I want the next phase fixed: &lt;code&gt;Probing failed&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/MeEs7pwrEUA&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Auto Homing showing failing Z-homing&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0OEPQ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0OEPQ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;ProbeErrorLCD&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After the final adjusted firmware upload, and bringing the sensor up, I see that the extruder pushes the bed down a bit when I auto home and then the LCD screen says probing failed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If compare to the latest (v1.1.9) Configuration.h file from &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/blob/1.1.x/Marlin/example_configurations/Anet/A8/Configuration.h&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;GitHub&lt;/a&gt;, here are the changes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#define FIX_MOUNTED_PROBE // Line #0719, Uncommented&#xA;&#xA;#define X_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER 16  // Line # 0779, Was 0&#xA;#define Y_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER 58  // Line # 0780, Was 0&#xA;&#xA;#define Z_HOMING_HEIGHT 5 // Line # 0870, Was 4  &#xA;&#xA;// #define MIN_SOFTWARE_ENDSTOP_Z // Line # 0907 Commented&#xA;&#xA;#define AUTO_BED_LEVELING_LINEAR // Line # 0977, Uncommented&#xA;&#xA;#define LEFT_PROBE_BED_POSITION  (X_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER + MIN_PROBE_EDGE) // Line # 1027, Uncommented&#xA;#define RIGHT_PROBE_BED_POSITION (X_BED_SIZE                   - MIN_PROBE_EDGE) // Line # 1028, Uncommented&#xA;#define FRONT_PROBE_BED_POSITION (Y_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER + MIN_PROBE_EDGE) // Line # 1029, Uncommented&#xA;#define BACK_PROBE_BED_POSITION  (Y_BED_SIZE                   - MIN_PROBE_EDGE) // Line # 1030, Uncommented&#xA;&#xA;#define Z_SAFE_HOMING // Line # 1144, Uncommented&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the above changeset, lines 1027-1030 are from the other SO question I mentioned above, the remaining are following the video.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After completing the steps up to the point where I push the firmware and have to lift the ROKO up &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/uY4GlbV4kGU?t=1222&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;I followed instructions in this video&lt;/a&gt;, my &quot;Auto Home&quot; operation is failing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update 1&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I used Pronterface as recommended by @dgrat in comments below and got this result:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;&amp;gt;&amp;gt;&amp;gt; M119&#xA;SENDING:M119&#xA;Reporting endstop status&#xA;x_min: open&#xA;y_min: open&#xA;z_min: TRIGGERED&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did not get the Probing failed message this time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What's next?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update 2&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also went ahead and tried out the &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/8098/12450&quot;&gt;second answer&lt;/a&gt;, where @0scar is recommending to uncomment &lt;code&gt;#define MIN_SOFTWARE_ENDSTOP_Z&lt;/code&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The results are exactly the same: The head hits the hotbed and goes back and then comes down slowly hitting and compressing the spring a bit before stopping. I did not get the Probing failed message this time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12450" LastEditorUserId="12450" LastEditDate="2019-02-23T10:34:32.770" LastActivityDate="2019-02-23T22:39:24.930" Title="Anet A8 with Marlin firmware: Auto Home is crashing into bed" Tags="|marlin|anet-a8|bed-leveling|homing|inductive-sensor|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8094" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7800" CreationDate="2019-01-30T12:28:38.093" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;1) You have a layer shift. I guess the shift is caused by an &lt;em&gt;overheating&lt;/em&gt; stepper driver, because it started relatively late, but could be also a mechanical issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) Print bed adhesion is a minor problem. Just test your printer with a simpler shape (large ground area).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3) After carbonization, your nozzle might be clogged. Make sure there is an even extrusion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10847" LastEditorUserId="10847" LastEditDate="2019-01-30T12:37:36.033" LastActivityDate="2019-01-30T12:37:36.033" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8096" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7683" CreationDate="2019-01-30T14:08:42.197" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;My Flashforge Adventurer 3 showed similar symptoms at the start of a print.  I found that the z-axis was out of calibration, causing the print head to touch the platform, meaning that the filament could not extrude. The solution was to calibrate by slipping a piece of paper under the extruder and adjusting the z-offset until it was just touching. Worked fine after that. Hope this helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14387" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2019-01-30T14:22:14.173" LastActivityDate="2019-01-30T14:22:14.173" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8097" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8088" CreationDate="2019-01-30T16:54:34.030" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I won't even ask why you need this and I assume you've done your homework about the issues. 3D printed gears are notorious for failing even when designed well, so the idea in general should be pretty doable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;TPU would be a terrible choice for a number of reasons. It's flexible which would make it a bad gear to begin with, but it is also very very tough. So it may last quite a long time, but perform very poorly. You specifically mention not using PLA, but I doubt you'll find a material that suites what you are looking for, more likely the print settings should be changed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Design Ideas&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My personal recommendation would be to use a good material such as PETG, ABS or PLA and deliberately under-design it. This way when it is overloaded, the part will fail. Be sure to consider how you want the part to fail, this will decide which material you should. As for how to under-design it: This would take a bit of testing. 3D printers create an enormous range of material properties due to infill, layer height, etc. For a starting point, change the infill level down until you get the desired results. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Those parts look pretty thin to begin with, if the infill is not an option, try to reduce your wall thickness and thickness of top and bottom layers. One pass thick walls with no infill will be awfully weak and flexible. That flex should be enough to get you what you need. Eventually you can get it down to just a shell of a part with 0.2 or 0.1 mm thickness all around. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Material Choice&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PLA will shatter, possibly resulting in further failure if caught in other gears. The small parts may cause an issue though when it fails. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;ABS will deform and probably not shatter, but it is difficult to print with. I would not recommend this. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PETG is on of my favorite materials - it is relatively easy to print with, very strong and bends instead of shattering on failure. This may be a good material to use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14242" LastActivityDate="2019-01-30T16:54:34.030" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8098" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8092" CreationDate="2019-01-30T19:48:02.107" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should un-comment the following line to get rid of the &lt;code&gt;Probing failed&lt;/code&gt; error message:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;// #define MIN_SOFTWARE_ENDSTOP_Z // Line # 0907 Commented&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;to&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#define MIN_SOFTWARE_ENDSTOP_Z&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You have basically disabled the use of the minimum Z endstop, while in fact you are using one, the difference is that it is a sensor now, not a mechanical switch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please note the distance of the sensor to the bed, it looks as though it is pretty far away. Before sending an auto home command, it is better to test the endstop triggering beforehand; an external application (e.g. Pronterface, Repetier-Host, OctoPrint, etc.), USB cable and a laptop/computer can be used to send G-code commands through the terminal of the external application. Code &lt;code&gt;M119&lt;/code&gt; will output the endstop trigger status to the terminal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-02-23T22:39:24.930" LastActivityDate="2019-02-23T22:39:24.930" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8099" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8091" CreationDate="2019-01-30T21:45:31.993" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;this problem can be solved by turning the slots on the display, as in the image below. Some Chinese displays are inverted from factory.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZXR8k.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZXR8k.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14392" LastActivityDate="2019-01-30T21:45:31.993" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8100" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8101" CreationDate="2019-01-30T21:48:38.103" Score="0" ViewCount="1903" Body="&lt;p&gt;I made some 3D printed supports for tools, using screws to fix it to the wall, some of them broken because of the screw forces. Is there a way to reinforce only the screw holes where it will have more stress/compress? I am using PLA, Fusion 360 and Ultimaker Cura.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14394" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-01-31T07:23:56.360" LastActivityDate="2019-01-31T17:06:56.277" Title="Reinforce screw holes" Tags="|fusion360|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8101" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8100" CreationDate="2019-01-30T23:21:57.763" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can test different print settings. Trying to visualize, but I believe you can increase the &lt;strong&gt;perimeter lines&lt;/strong&gt;, since there is a hole, this will increase the resistance in that area. Or try to change the &lt;strong&gt;orientation&lt;/strong&gt; with which the part will be printed&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14392" LastActivityDate="2019-01-30T23:21:57.763" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8102" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8100" CreationDate="2019-01-31T01:06:48.710" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can use a washer between the screw head and the plastic material to distribute the load&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my designs I also put in a depression to fit the washer so that it sits flush with the resultant surface.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2Mh31.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2Mh31.png&quot; alt=&quot;Cad design with recessed washer holes&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12857" LastActivityDate="2019-01-31T01:06:48.710" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8103" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8104" CreationDate="2019-01-31T05:16:12.187" Score="1" ViewCount="517" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am trying to make a box that is 420&amp;nbsp;mm wide by 86&amp;nbsp;mm tall by 100&amp;nbsp;mm long, I wonder if there is a good technique to design, cut, print and fit all parts together to be safe and hard. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14394" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-01-31T07:08:07.987" LastActivityDate="2019-01-31T07:08:07.987" Title="Print box bigger than the printer bed" Tags="|fusion360|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8104" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8103" CreationDate="2019-01-31T06:18:47.107" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are you making a simple box? Or does it have some kind of detail or structure? The photo below exemplifies a structure attached to connectors that have been created outside of Fusion, but you can also use it as an idea to create your own!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VgKau.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VgKau.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2d8vv.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Link to OPENSCAD LIBRARY&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are thinking of cutting into parts, you can also create a kind of male / female (puzzle) in the parts that fit. Something like that ...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2d8vv.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2d8vv.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is some interesting information to study &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.3dhubs.com/knowledge-base/how-design-snap-fit-joints-3d-printing&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;How to design Snap-fit Joints for 3D Printing&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14392" LastActivityDate="2019-01-31T06:18:47.107" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8105" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8106" CreationDate="2019-01-31T12:11:22.043" Score="5" ViewCount="2546" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there any risk of damaging stepper motors if I set too big travel speed?&#xA;What is maximum safe travel speed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My printer is a German RepRap Neo.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I currently use 120&amp;nbsp;mm/s. Is it safe to increase this value to 200&amp;nbsp;mm/s?&#xA;What would my printer do if I set very big travel speed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14397" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-01-31T12:17:45.627" LastActivityDate="2019-01-31T17:00:19.493" Title="How fast can printer head move without damaging steppers?" Tags="|safety|mechanics|speed|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8106" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8105" CreationDate="2019-01-31T13:16:08.017" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Short answer &lt;strong&gt;no&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We use stepper drivers to limit the current, the travel speed is at capped by the amount of current supplied by the stepper drivers. This prevents the stepper motors from damaging themselves. You can set 200mm/s in the slicer, but you have no guarantee that that will be reached in real life.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One thing to keep in mind though is that setting your travel speed too high can induce artifacts such: shifted layers, ghosting, uneven extrusion, etc. So the best thing is to keep the speeds within the specified limits.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12934" LastActivityDate="2019-01-31T13:16:08.017" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8107" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8105" CreationDate="2019-01-31T14:13:42.010" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Stepper motors contain permanent magnets, which are only really damaged by heat. The coils in the motor are only damaged by high currents that would happen at voltages above the maximum rating of the motor. While it is possible to configure a stepper driver to send enough current into a stepper motor to damage it (either due to heat or over current), desktop 3d printer drivers do not have enough current capacity to do such damage to those NEMA 17 stepper motors. The only thing bad that will happen is that you risk over heating the driver or the components around it on the PCB causing an early failure of the parts. (Google &quot;Temperature Cycling and Fatigue in electronics&quot;). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That aside, the only problem that you are likely to encounter is stepper stalling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12857" LastActivityDate="2019-01-31T14:13:42.010" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8108" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8105" CreationDate="2019-01-31T14:20:01.673" Score="7" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;What would my printer do if I set very big travel speed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If a speed is set above the limits of the stepper, the stepper will stop rotating or stutters. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically there are 2 limits, the first is the limit of the board to generate the pulses to the stepper and second, how these pulses are processed by the stepper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The speed of steppers depends on several aspects, including:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;microprocessor speed&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;stepper driver&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;micro-stepping setting&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;voltage&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;etc.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/wiki/Step_rates&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;This reference&lt;/a&gt; gives you some more background as well as a table (which is a little optimistic for Marlin firmware) with maximum speeds. Depending on the application in your printer (stepper type, pulley size and microstepping value), it lists some maximum speeds for various boards:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zXIWC.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zXIWC.png&quot; alt=&quot;Table of maximum travel speeds&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;What is maximum safe travel speed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In case of an Anet A8, 1,8&amp;deg;; 16-teeth-GT2-pulley; 1/16 microstepping, this leads to 160&amp;nbsp;mm/s on Marlin on an Atmega microprocessor (note this is optimistic).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I currently use 120 mm/s. Is it safe to increase this value to 200 mm/s?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That depends. If you work out the mechanical and electronic details of your printer, you could look up the value you could ultimately use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Is there any risk of damaging stepper motors if I set too big travel speed? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No there is not, the stepper will stutter or stop. I've had this with too fast retractions on an extruder stepper motor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2019-01-31T14:20:01.673" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8109" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5161" CreationDate="2019-01-31T15:17:52.053" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I hit this issue again in January 2019 with CuraEngine 3.6+git. Since support for multiple extruders was added, it now auto-loads a per-extruder settings file that overrides the main settings file &lt;strong&gt;and the command line&lt;/strong&gt;, so &lt;code&gt;-s material_diameter=1.75&lt;/code&gt; on the command line did not help. Given &lt;code&gt;$foo.def.json&lt;/code&gt;, it seems to construct the filename &lt;code&gt;%$foo_extruder_0.def.json&lt;/code&gt;, and if that does not exist, loads &lt;code&gt;fdmextruder.def.json&lt;/code&gt;, which sets &lt;code&gt;material_width&lt;/code&gt; to a default of &lt;code&gt;2.85&lt;/code&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was able to solve the problem by either patching &lt;code&gt;fdmextruder.def.json&lt;/code&gt;, or making a copy of it named to match my printer's settings file, with the &lt;code&gt;2.85&lt;/code&gt; changed to &lt;code&gt;1.75&lt;/code&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Update: There should already be extruder files for supported printers, but they're in a different directory, so they won't be found when invoking &lt;code&gt;CuraEngine&lt;/code&gt; from the command line unless you've set the &lt;code&gt;CURA_ENGINE_SEARCH_PATH&lt;/code&gt; environment variable to include the path they're in. Alternatively you can copy them to the same directory as the main printer json files.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastEditorUserId="11157" LastEditDate="2019-05-05T16:57:30.867" LastActivityDate="2019-05-05T16:57:30.867" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8110" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3389" CreationDate="2019-01-31T16:38:57.877" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Might be because servo pins are not connected to 5V. use Jumper as shown&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ycegg.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ycegg.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10670" LastActivityDate="2019-01-31T16:38:57.877" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8111" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8105" CreationDate="2019-01-31T17:00:19.493" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A high speed is unlikely to be reached unless you also set a high acceleration, and acceleration is generally more likely to cause a problem (unless you reach the pulse rate limit of the drivers).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;High acceleration will increase vibration, and critically requires higher torque from the motors. At some point, the torque will exceed the motor/drive current capability, and the motor will skip steps. As soon as this starts to happen, your print will become unusable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Before reaching the point of missed steps, you're likely to see other quality issues, but unless you're in a very hot environment, unlikely to see damage to the motor. Depending on the quality and heatsinking of the stepper driver, you might see overheating here (you can check for overheating of the board though).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4927" LastActivityDate="2019-01-31T17:00:19.493" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8112" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8100" CreationDate="2019-01-31T17:06:56.277" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In order to add localised extra walls, I will sometimes &lt;em&gt;cut&lt;/em&gt; a torus shape around the part that I want to strengthen. This can result in n*wall, infill, n*wall, void, n*wall.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See the images in this &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/7022/4927&quot;&gt;answer&lt;/a&gt; if the description is not clear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4927" LastActivityDate="2019-01-31T17:06:56.277" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8113" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-01-31T19:01:43.243" Score="3" ViewCount="335" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am using an Arduino Mega 2560 and &lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/wiki/RAMPS_1.4&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;RAMSP 1.4&lt;/a&gt; shield with &lt;a href=&quot;http://marlinfw.org/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Marlin&lt;/a&gt; firmware to control my machine (not exactly a 3D printer). Marlin has G-code:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;code&gt;M42 P20 S255&lt;/code&gt;&amp;nbsp;==&gt; Turn &lt;strong&gt;on&lt;/strong&gt; pin 20 of the microprocessor &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;code&gt;M42 P20 S0&lt;/code&gt;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;==&gt; Turn &lt;strong&gt;off&lt;/strong&gt; pin 20 of the microprocessor&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am using this command to turn ON a MOSFET switch connected to pin 20.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I have not put the RAMPS shield on top of AtMega,  this works. Pin goes high only when I send code to turn it ON.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But when I place the shield on top of the Mega 2560 (No 12&amp;nbsp;V power is given to RAMPS, only 5&amp;nbsp;V from USB), when I first connect USB to it, I find around 2&amp;nbsp;V on Pin 20 even without sending the ON command. when sending &lt;code&gt;M42 P20 S0&lt;/code&gt; this goes away (0&amp;nbsp;V) and get 5&amp;nbsp;V for &lt;code&gt;M42 P20 S255&lt;/code&gt;. Without shield there's no voltage when connecting USB to Mega 2560; with shield there's 2&amp;nbsp;V on the pin and this causes the MOSFET switch to turn on. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Where does this voltage comes from? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First I thought this must be some noise, so added a 10K pull down resistor (since that is the common value I have seen in many circuits), but it didn't work. But placing a 100&amp;nbsp;Ohm works. Is this safe?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10670" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-02-01T14:03:39.707" LastActivityDate="2019-02-01T14:03:39.707" Title="Arduino Mega 2560 + RAMPS voltage on GPIO pin" Tags="|marlin|ramps|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8114" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7683" CreationDate="2019-01-31T19:52:26.603" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Advice from another source suggested thoroughly cleaning the feed gear on the bowden extruder.  When I looked closely there were plastic flakes all over the mechanism.  I used compressed air and a brush to clean it. &#xA;I also discovered expert mode in the FlashPrint software, which enabled me to slow down the speed at which fill is laid down.&#xA;Now I have good printing results with any filament.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT AND UPDATE::&#xA;I have continued to have problems with PLA.  For most of the last year I printed using ABS with no similar problems.  I guess that PLA is simply rougher, scratchier than ABS and catches in the tube.  I found a comment that putting olive oil on the filament fixes it.  I used Vaseline.  Things were fine for a while, but a retailer said this would lead to other problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So far, no permanent answer to this question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13852" LastEditorUserId="13852" LastEditDate="2020-01-28T19:33:11.710" LastActivityDate="2020-01-28T19:33:11.710" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8115" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-01-31T21:07:10.133" Score="3" ViewCount="290" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to create a micromouse project for fun that use 2 20&amp;nbsp;mm&amp;nbsp;x&amp;nbsp;8.5&amp;nbsp;mm (0.8&amp;nbsp;mm shaft) motors. I have my own PCB as base. I want its built-in gears will be attached to two 3D-printed wheels with gears at the back of the wheels at each side. I'm having hard time to start designing the gears since I couldn't find any tutorial.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(photo for reference and not mine)&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ady1o.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ady1o.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3JM9F.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3JM9F.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My Question:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How to design the gears at the back of the wheel? (I use Sketchup)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is 3d-printing such small objects possible?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14403" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-02-01T09:46:14.400" LastActivityDate="2019-09-18T14:58:08.960" Title="How to design gears" Tags="|3d-models|3d-design|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8116" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6794" CreationDate="2019-02-01T05:30:01.957" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes. The shock from the lack of grounding. Most cheap SMPS (switched mode power supplies) are grounded to the metal casing which, in turn, is connect to the ground terminal where the AC plug is wired.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;tl;dr, take the plastic box on the end off an wire in a UK plug that DOES ground the power supply.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14406" LastActivityDate="2019-02-01T05:30:01.957" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8117" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8115" CreationDate="2019-02-01T06:07:41.713" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Designing gears is very difficult for a variety of reasons. Let me list what you should take into account:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The shape of the teeth are very peculiar, trapezoid shape will not work as the meshing will not be constant. Exact shape is controlled by the pressure angle&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;In lower number of teeth, teeth shape must be modified to avoid any locks, these are called cutoffs&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Reducing the amount of material to print requires careful design, most people simply place circles but they cause weak points.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Herringbone and double herringbone gears improve meshing but are even more difficult to design.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the reasons stated above, creating gears by hand is next to impossible without special tools. Luckily for those who are searching for it, there are systems that generate gears for 3D printing. This &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1427458&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;customizer&lt;/a&gt; has many options and is very open about the licensing, which is another issue with many scripts. For example, it is explicitly forbidden to print parts imported from the McMaster-Carr Catalogue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you use OpenSCAD, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1427673&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this library&lt;/a&gt; can create racks to go with the gears.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The parameters of the customizer are explained in the page. The script also contains explanations of every module and function.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Disclaimer: Both scripts are mine, yet I do not earn anything when people use them. I created the library when I was unable to find the gears I needed, published with a relaxed license to help others.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8651" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2019-02-02T17:26:14.710" LastActivityDate="2019-02-02T17:26:14.710" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8118" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4661" CreationDate="2019-02-01T06:13:54.817" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Flexible materials cause lot of issues if there is any space between extruder gear and PTFE tube. Since it is flexible it refuses to follow the path and starts bending around the opening. There are parts in Thingiverse that you can print to remove that distance. Additionally make sure that your extruder fan is working. After those two modifications, I was able to reliably print flexible filaments.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8651" LastEditorUserId="8651" LastEditDate="2019-02-01T11:49:12.730" LastActivityDate="2019-02-01T11:49:12.730" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8119" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8088" CreationDate="2019-02-01T06:21:33.717" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;This metod will be difficult with gears but doable. Print cold and slightly under extruded. This will cause part to fail in layers. You may need to print the part on side to ensure a non functioning gear. Use PLA or PETG. Breaking TPU is next to impossible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8651" LastActivityDate="2019-02-01T06:21:33.717" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8120" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7800" CreationDate="2019-02-01T06:36:33.863" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a guess and a suggestion. It looks like your bottom most layer is ver thick. Even though most people suggest thick first layer, if it is thicker than 0.25 for 0.4 nozzle it cannot reliably squeeze the plaatic so that it would stick to the bed. I prefer lowering z height in the software (Slic3r allows this) to squish the first layer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another suggestion I would make is to set bed temperature to 55. 60c is glass tranaition temperature of PLA. At that temperature, PLA softens and if you have even the slightest over extrusion, the pressure from nozzle can topple tall objects.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And for charring you may want to print a little colder. Not all thermistors are equal and printing too hot causes lots of quality issues. I personally print around 170-180c. If you have layers separating, you are printing too cold. You might want to print some calibration pieces to find parameters for your printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8651" LastActivityDate="2019-02-01T06:36:33.863" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8121" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8122" CreationDate="2019-02-01T07:03:26.667" Score="2" ViewCount="985" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm pretty new to printing PETG, and my Creality Ender 3 now has a glass print bed. I've done some research, and it looks like a pretty bad idea to try and print PETG on a pure glass surface for fear of the print pulling chunks of glass along with it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, I've looked into various bed adhesion options. I've already used blue tape, but I'll need to purchase some wide stuff, and in the meantime, I want to investigate using PVA-based glue stick. However, one question does come to mind: how can I set the bed-nozzle distance after applying the glue stick layer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do I even need to? Will the extruded plastic just crush it into the build plate without a problem, saving me the trouble of lowering the build plate? My normal method of sliding a paper sheet under the nozzle at Z = 0 mm would take the glue stick layer along with it if I tried that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12377" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2021-11-15T02:11:27.053" LastActivityDate="2021-11-15T08:55:14.857" Title="How to level bed after applying glue stick for bed adhesion" Tags="|heated-bed|bed-leveling|adhesion|petg|glass-bed|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8122" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8121" CreationDate="2019-02-01T08:14:58.207" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;How much glue do you put on it? I use PVA based spray, barely visible, very evenly spread and no problem whatsoever of sticking paper to the glue layer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just level the bed as you normally would and apply a sparsely applied coat of glue, preferably from a spray can. Note that glue stick dissolves in water, so you can distribute the glue with a moist cloth preventing globs or thick layers of glue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having printed literally kilometers of PETG on various build platforms (various glass sheets with or without PVA based glue, Aluminium and PEI), chipping of glass is not something I have seen happening (this part is added after comments on adhesion and glass chipping in comments). Perhaps, in case of chipping, if the glass might be of very low quality, then chipping may occur. Whether your glass is of decent quality can be tested, just print on one side, and if it chips you always have the other side. My Ultimaker 3E sheet of glass has a small chip taken out of the surface, but that was caused by not carefully removing the print, tip is to not pry with the corner of a too thick painters spatula, the corner can dig into the glass if force is used. This was not caused by the adhesion of the print but a user error, now, years later and many more kilometers of PETG, no more extra chips are out of the sheet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Printing on PEI with PETG is another story, PETG just fuses to PEI and is very difficult to remove, a PVA based glue helps, but from experience, still prints were very hard to remove.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Invest in a can of build plate adhesion spray, it lasts long, never gives you problems with adhesion and probably is even cheaper than glue sticks (per mass unit).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-11-15T08:55:14.857" LastActivityDate="2021-11-15T08:55:14.857" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8123" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8115" CreationDate="2019-02-01T09:31:37.170" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are also several &lt;a href=&quot;https://geargenerator.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;gear generators&lt;/a&gt; out there. Correct gear geometry is important for long life and noise reasons. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One thing to keep in mind is that iff you are able to print accurate gears it's easy to print &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Herringbone_gear&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;herringbone gears&lt;/a&gt; which are not easily machinable with other techniques.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That should cover the how (use a generator and import the geometry). The &quot;is it possible&quot; depends on your 3d printing skills, if possible you need to be able to do 0.1 mm tolerances, elephant footing will make the gear unusable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said I was able to print some planetary gears 'in place' (ie. assembled on the print bed) using a raft to avoid fusion of the lower layers:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5XYIT.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5XYIT.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;left: printed with raft, right: printed on build plate&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Spinning the gear printed on raft: &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MdfuZ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MdfuZ.jpg&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;Spinning the gear without a raft directly on the print bed: &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rQ72S.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rQ72S.jpg&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first one is still on my work desk as a fidget spinner because it spins so nicely ;-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14409" LastEditorUserId="2191" LastEditDate="2019-02-01T15:55:10.693" LastActivityDate="2019-02-01T15:55:10.693" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8124" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8132" CreationDate="2019-02-01T09:45:57.927" Score="3" ViewCount="1297" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am new to 3D Printing. We currently have to design in process that I want to finish. The design consists of two parts (top and bottom), the top and bottom that need to snap fit into each other. The arrangement should be similar to the one used in many electronics, for example, the cordless phones in the picture below.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is, can such clips be done with 3D printing? Will they last (be used 5 to 20 times) and does the material used for 3D printing make a difference? Is there a material that is particularly good for such snap-fit connectors? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that my design will only be a prototype and eventually we would be creating a mold for our product.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jIlP8.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jIlP8.png&quot; alt=&quot;clip connector&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14410" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2019-02-02T17:32:56.643" LastActivityDate="2019-06-01T10:25:49.377" Title="Can snap-fit connector be designed for 3D Printing?" Tags="|3d-design|clip|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8125" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8113" CreationDate="2019-02-01T12:34:33.970" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Connecting a 100&amp;nbsp;Ohm resistor is definitely not safe. This load is far too high for an AtMega2560 output pin. 100&amp;nbsp;Ohms at 5&amp;nbsp;V (when the pin is high) is 50&amp;nbsp;mA, whereas the recommended maximum for an AtMega2560 pin is 20&amp;nbsp;mA (and it would be better to stay well below this maximum). You should use a higher value pull-down resistor (at least 250&amp;nbsp;Ohms, more would be better) or find out where the stray voltage is coming from (it could be an internal pull up on the AtMega, since pin 20 is also the SDA pin which Marlin might enable).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-02-01T12:40:52.183" LastActivityDate="2019-02-01T12:40:52.183" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8126" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8127" CreationDate="2019-02-01T16:50:27.417" Score="2" ViewCount="515" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently changes the nozzle on my &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.monoprice.uk/products/monoprice-maker-ultimate-3d-printer-uk&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Monoprice Maker Ultimate&lt;/a&gt; 3D printer (first time).  The brass block that the nozzle screws into is free to rotate around an is &lt;em&gt;wobbly&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/C3GbM.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Brass block&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.imgur.com/CURJxr5.mp4&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Loose block video&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can't see any obvious nut/screw that's come loose though.  It could well be that it's not important, but it was definitely tightly attached before it twisted when I removed the nozzle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've taken the assembly apart:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zt2P7.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Silver bit&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Silver bit removed:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5kaCi.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Silver bit&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13813" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2020-03-02T10:08:54.470" LastActivityDate="2020-03-02T10:08:54.470" Title="Loose brass heater block" Tags="|hotend|monoprice-maker-ultimate|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8127" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8126" CreationDate="2019-02-01T17:26:00.313" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The silver looking cylindrical nut (with the flat faces) between the brass block and the black metal plate is the heat break of the assembly. The brass block should be tightly fit to this heat break. You could turn the brass block to get a close fit again. The heat break itself can move in the upper part, black plate, the cold end by the set screw on the side. Some hotend assembly types allow that, this screw is then used to fixate the orientation of the brass block. This type of hotend is not very common, it is a MK10.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Without the brass block it looks like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oZsAP.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oZsAP.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;MK10 cold end and heat break&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maybe this clears it up how the block is attached in between the heat break and the nozzle; it is positioned where you see the threads. The screw to position the brass heater block and the heat break is clearly visible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't try to wobble the brass block any further as you will wear out the threads, there appears to be a lot of play already.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-02-01T19:34:36.873" LastActivityDate="2019-02-01T19:34:36.873" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8128" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7037" CreationDate="2019-02-01T20:39:43.307" Score="17" Body="&lt;p&gt;This answer builds on to both 0scar and tedder42's answer:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Martin's experiment was about shear strength, where as Stefan of CNC Kitchen's experiment was about compressive strength on 2 directions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From their experiments, it is reasonable to conclude that gyroid does well on sheer strength, and above mediocre on compressive strength.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Why use gyroid?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If your print requires shear strength, use gyroid.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Else if your print requires compressive strength from transverse or both directions, use cubic.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Else if your print requires only perpendicular compressive strength, use triangle.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If your print infill naked, each pattern has its own beauty.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;See also:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Martin's experiment (Note how he used a bottle of water to test different structures for their shear strength):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.cartesiancreations.com.au/gyroid-infill-tests/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.cartesiancreations.com.au/gyroid-infill-tests/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Stefan of CNC Kitchen's experiment (Note how he used his self-made machine to compress different structures):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCiczXOhGpvoQGhOL16EZiTg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCiczXOhGpvoQGhOL16EZiTg&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Examples of gyroid's aesthetics can be found in Matt's links:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://mattshub.com/2018/03/15/gyroid-infill/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://mattshub.com/2018/03/15/gyroid-infill/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4493" LastEditorUserId="17189" LastEditDate="2019-08-04T17:02:44.457" LastActivityDate="2019-08-04T17:02:44.457" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8129" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8173" CreationDate="2019-02-02T00:10:43.937" Score="5" ViewCount="1366" Body="&lt;p&gt;Recently, at work we bought a Guider II printer from FlashForge.&#xA;When we try to print models using a high resolution or models with a too high printing time, the feeder gets clogged. And the feeder is too hot. We have concluded that the feeder is getting clogged because the high temperature softens the PLA.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We check the feeder fan and is working fine. How can I avoid the jamming? Pausing the 3D printer and wait a few minutes is not working for us. I don't know if it is a common problem for this 3D printer model.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit:&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The hotend is an all metal hot end. I can't find more information about the hot end. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the manual of the guider II flashforge recommend a temperature of 210°C for the head and 30°C for the bed. I have tried different temperatures. The most common temperature I've used is 190°C for the head and 55°C for the bed (I obtain the best results with this temperature).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the Hotend used by this 3d printer.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jrEnr.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jrEnr.png&quot; alt=&quot;Hotend picture&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14417" LastEditorUserId="14417" LastEditDate="2019-02-05T15:50:13.997" LastActivityDate="2019-02-07T23:18:41.957" Title="How can I avoid jamming in the feeder?" Tags="|extruder|troubleshooting|cooling|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8130" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5508" CreationDate="2019-02-02T00:55:21.523" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's impossible to get a true measure with  calipers because of the bumps from layer lines. The printer/slicer is working on an average of the peaks and troughs but the calipers only measures the peaks. Thus, after measuring and compensating, you told it to under-extrude and it did.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14418" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2022-04-11T09:09:23.230" LastActivityDate="2022-04-11T09:09:23.230" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8132" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8124" CreationDate="2019-02-02T13:48:06.050" Score="2" Body="&lt;h2&gt;yes&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can totally print snap-fit connectors for 3D printing, but you need to keep some things in mind. I assume that since you have looked at these connectors, you have a good idea about the matter, but I nevertheless suggest Angus (MakersMuse) discussion locking devices at the beginning of a tutorial Video on &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tw4iP0luFVU&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;designing buckles.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your tabs thickness will need to be at least one line width wide at the most narrow point to be printable at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Print-Orientation&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another thing besides thickness is orientation. For the strongest tabs, you might want to print the tabs like a C for maximum part strength. Just modeling the part with the tabs, it should print in this orientation then:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PzgHY.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PzgHY.png&quot; alt=&quot;A C-Clamp&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This way the bending is not applying stress against layer boundaries but 90° to them, giving even force on each layer. This means that you will need to print parts in awkward orientations just for the tabs usually. You will need lots of support.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can certainly print in a less awkward position at the expense of strength of the tab, acknowledging that &amp;quot;this is a prototype, we can show you that it closes perfectly like this, though due to FDM limitations we might break the tabs opening it again. So we'll be careful.&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;prototype-variation of model&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Snaples tabs&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It might be however easier to print the tabs flat and without the hooks, allowing to do a fitting test, but not a snap-connection. Your benefit is, that you won't have to watch for print orientation, but it won't be locking. Make sure to work with &lt;strong&gt;workflow&lt;/strong&gt; and put the modifications for easy printing/not-locking at the end. Alterations to the general design should come all &lt;em&gt;before&lt;/em&gt; this point. Then turn off these steps to create the model that is sent to machining for the mold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Modular intermediate design&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you need to have working, strong tabs AND a good print, it can pay off to print separate parts that combine into a single piece with a little glue. Maybe the C-clamp is actually a thin bar that is put into the back plate and glued into place or secured with a little friction weld.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:29:41.667" LastActivityDate="2019-06-01T10:25:49.377" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8133" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8135" CreationDate="2019-02-02T15:21:44.650" Score="3" ViewCount="808" Body="&lt;p&gt;I made a model for my 3D clock. Model has few vertical holes so I made one layer thick bridge for every hole. In Fusion 360 everything looks fine, but CURA (version 3.6.0) doesn't want to print those Bridges. Why?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Full Wall is 1.68mm thick(in Fusion), &lt;code&gt;infill&lt;/code&gt; is 20%, &lt;code&gt;wall line count&lt;/code&gt; is 1, &lt;code&gt;layer height&lt;/code&gt; is 0.28mm, the support-bridges are designed to be this thick too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure will be material stable above holes without Bridges.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9iuec.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9iuec.png&quot; alt=&quot;Bridges in Fusion 360&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EfF5o.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EfF5o.png&quot; alt=&quot;Model in CURA 3.6.0&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oLdpe.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oLdpe.png&quot; alt=&quot;Hole at close&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14276" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2019-02-02T17:40:48.063" LastActivityDate="2019-02-02T18:16:20.310" Title="CURA doesn't want print bridges" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|fusion360|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8134" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8129" CreationDate="2019-02-02T16:48:20.110" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the temperature is too high it can charr the plastic, causing jams. There are many reasons for that. If the temperature you have selected is not too high (&amp;lt;200C), then it might be the thermistor not correctly reading the temperature. If you can measure the hot end temperature, that will give definitive answer to that question. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally, some filament contains additives that can get burned even at lower temperatures. I find it every difficult to print with woodfill if it takes very long to print. Some wood chips gets burned and causes jamming.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8651" LastActivityDate="2019-02-02T16:48:20.110" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8135" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8133" CreationDate="2019-02-02T17:31:07.320" Score="5" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Nomenclature help&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A &lt;strong&gt;Layer&lt;/strong&gt; is everything that is printed between the print head moving upwards.&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;code&gt;Layer height&lt;/code&gt; is how &lt;strong&gt;tall&lt;/strong&gt; each line is. It is in Quality.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A &lt;strong&gt;Wall&lt;/strong&gt; is made up from lines put down next to each other.&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;code&gt;line width&lt;/code&gt; is how &lt;strong&gt;thick&lt;/strong&gt; a 1-perimeter-strong wall is in the XY-plane. It should never be smaller than the Nozzle Diameter. It is in Quality.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Nozzle Diameter&lt;/strong&gt; is what is the physical diameter of your nozzle. It is located in the printer configuration.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A &lt;strong&gt;Bridge&lt;/strong&gt; is printing horizontal layers that connect to walls at the sides but otherwise not connected to the printbed or print.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dey7I.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dey7I.png&quot; alt=&quot;A simple bridge&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Ultimaker Cura does ignore too thin walls&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your walls are 0.28 mm thick and your nozzle is most likely 0.4 mm thick. That can't be printed at all, in fact, you are &lt;em&gt;way&lt;/em&gt; too thin to be printed: a printer should never print any object that is thinner than its nozzle as that is a perfect way to generate clogs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Atop that, slicers ignore &lt;em&gt;also&lt;/em&gt; what is thinner or exactly as thin as the line width. If the &lt;code&gt;line width&lt;/code&gt; is 0.4 mm, and the wall is 0.4 mm, it gets ignored. If the wall is 0.45 mm, it is not. This can be remedied by setting the option &lt;code&gt;print thin walls&lt;/code&gt;, but you still need to have one line nozzle-diameter as minimum line width - actually it is common to go about 10% larger for better extrusion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Solution&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Strengthen the walls to one &lt;code&gt;line width&lt;/code&gt; (usually 0.4 mm) in your CAD-design and activate &lt;code&gt;print thin walls&lt;/code&gt; under &lt;code&gt;Shell&lt;/code&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/v8fzf.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/v8fzf.png&quot; alt=&quot;A design with too thin walls&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2019-02-02T18:16:20.310" LastActivityDate="2019-02-02T18:16:20.310" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8136" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8140" CreationDate="2019-02-02T17:47:54.567" Score="6" ViewCount="7098" Body="&lt;p&gt;After I level my Ender 3, the distance between the nozzle and the bed seems fine on both ends, but moving the bed on the Y axis shows that it's increasing and decreasing for three times, which I just cant fix.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This only occurs on the left side - the right side is constant from beginning to end.&#xA;Also I've been using three different beds (the magnetic one and two glasses) to make sure it's really something else.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I created &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zqLqTGeljyw&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;this video&lt;/a&gt; to demonstrate the problem. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm sure that this has something to do with the carriage wheel adjustment, but tightening those did not change anything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do I get rid of this problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14426" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-02-02T21:46:28.633" LastActivityDate="2020-03-31T04:45:57.493" Title="Ender 3 distance between nozzle and bed changing on Y-axis" Tags="|troubleshooting|creality-ender-3|bed-leveling|y-axis|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8138" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="156" CreationDate="2019-02-02T19:52:58.710" Score="-3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you want to know something about what you are questioning, it is interesting to you to read &lt;a href=&quot;http://e-nable.org/resources/prosthetics-students-consultation/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://e-nable.org/resources/prosthetics-students-consultation/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's a link with complementary information how to print 3D as a volunteer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know that is not enough information about products, but I believe Nylon is the best recommend because it is what generally printers are using, though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This website supports information with Dr. Chang by the e-mail eagle01@rocketmail.com&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;but there insnt information about the components used in the prosthetics, but I know that Nylon is the best suited to it nowadays. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you prefer there is a site with makers loging information about PETG:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.matterhackers.com/news/how-to-succeed-when-printing-with-petg-filament&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.matterhackers.com/news/how-to-succeed-when-printing-with-petg-filament&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14297" LastEditorUserId="14297" LastEditDate="2019-02-04T15:21:46.950" LastActivityDate="2019-02-04T15:21:46.950" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8139" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8150" CreationDate="2019-02-02T22:09:25.580" Score="8" ViewCount="1917" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just completed my first print on my Ender-3 and when the print finalized itself the nozzle didn't elevate itself to clear away from the piece. I watched as the nozzle slowly lowered itself into my print and destroy it. Here is the gcode generated by Slic3r used:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&#xA;; Filament-specific end gcode&#xA;G4 ; wait&#xA;M221 S100&#xA;M106 S0 ; turn off cooling fan&#xA;M104 S0 ; turn off extruder&#xA;M140 S0 ; turn off bed&#xA;G91&#xA;G1 F1800 E-3&#xA;G90&#xA;G1 Z{z_offset+min(layer_z+30, max_print_height)}{endif} ; Move print head up&#xA;G28 X0 ; home x and y axis&#xA;G1 Y180; Remove Print Position&#xA;M84 ; disable motors&#xA;M300 S2600 P100; Beep&#xA;; filament used = 24040.5mm (57.8cm3)&#xA;; total filament cost = 0.0&#xA;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mZncw.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mZncw.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;preview of the destruction&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14425" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-02-03T13:11:54.037" LastActivityDate="2019-10-25T18:54:01.410" Title="Why did my printer's nozzle dig itself into my print?" Tags="|g-code|creality-ender-3|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8140" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8136" CreationDate="2019-02-02T22:15:11.550" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your video shows that your bed seems warped somewhat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Ammount of error&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As I assume you did level the bed with a sheet of paper to be 0.1 mm thick, we can estimate the change of thickness. The thickest point seems to be 0.2 mm, the thinnest 0.05. that's in average an error of 0.075 mm for the first layer. If you can live with that, no need to touch it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Fixing the issue&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically, if the error is too large for your liking, you need to fix it. To fix it, there are pretty much 2 ways. Remember that &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6342/what-voltage-does-the-creality-ender-3-run-at&quot;&gt;the Ender-3 uses 24V&lt;/a&gt; when ordering parts!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Fix the part or install a replacement part&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you feel like you need to get it even flatter, you'll need to try to flatten the bed mechanically or replace it. You'll need to be comfortable to remove the BuildTak-clone surface, then remove the leveling screws, open the electronics enclosure, remove some hot glue, unhook the bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then you will need to flatten the bed in some way (grinding the upper side perfectly flat or bending it, replacing it for an entirely flat one).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then reinstall it, going through the uninstallation backward, and add a new build surface on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Switch to alternate leveling method: Mesh Bed Leveling&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you consider yourself to be able to do some intermediate to advanced modification of your printer, you can change the hotend carriage to one that allows mounting a distance sensor and changing the firmware to mesh-bed-leveling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll need to get an induction or capacity sensor (common operation ranges for those are 6-36V, so perfectly fine with 24V) and &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6358/inductive-sensor-in-24-v-machine&quot;&gt;some way to couple that to the board&lt;/a&gt;, most likely an optocoupler. Print a new mounting for sensor and fans.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To install you open the electronics compartment, hook up your chosen 24V-5V coupler as extra to the Z-switch, hook the power supply of the sensor up and run it up to the printhead. Replace the mounting for the hotend cooling fan and part cooling fan and &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/6660/8884&quot;&gt;change your firmware&lt;/a&gt;. Calibrate the height of the sensor to trigger correctly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did flash a bootloader &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6685/how-to-install-new-atmega-firmware-via-the-isp-pins&quot;&gt;via the ISP&lt;/a&gt; on my ender-3 since then, so I can just flash the new firmware via a direct connection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Last words&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In either way, after fixing, you should run a PID-tune on the machine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thermal Runaway might or might not be active, depending on your firmware iteration, so you should update it anyway, which might make Mesh Bed Leveling the slightly easier way to go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This has &lt;em&gt;nothing&lt;/em&gt; to do with the bed carriage wheels, as the bed hangs onto the carriage only via the screws in the corners.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:29:41.667" LastActivityDate="2019-02-04T17:59:34.650" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8141" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8139" CreationDate="2019-02-02T22:23:08.473" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your print end code should have read something akin to this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;; Filament sy end gcode&#xA;G4 ; wait&#xA;M221 S100&#xA;M106 S0 ; turn off cooling fan&#xA;M104 S0 ; turn off extruder&#xA;M140 S0 ; turn off bed&#xA;&#xA;; End code&#xA;G1 F1800 E-3 ; retract 3 mm&#xA;G1 Z30 ; Move print head up 30mm&#xA;G28 X0 ; home x and y axis&#xA;M84 ; disable motors&#xA;M300 S2600 P100; Beep&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem with your end code is the &lt;code&gt;G90&lt;/code&gt; for &lt;strong&gt;absolute&lt;/strong&gt; measurements together with the formula &lt;code&gt;G1 Z{z_offset+min(layer_z+30, max_print_height)}{endif}&lt;/code&gt; to set the height. The printer itself doesn't calculate anything. That what it doesn't interpret, it ignores, interpreting that whole thing as something crazy like &lt;code&gt;G1 Z30&lt;/code&gt; to force the printer to go to Absolute 30 mm above absolute 0. To fix it,  your slicer would need to calculate &lt;code&gt;{z_offset+min(layer_z+30, max_print_height)}&lt;/code&gt; for the printer - which seems to come out to 30mm above the print and then an if-statement that is not started anywhere.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Going up 30 mm can be much easier be done by staying in &lt;code&gt;G91 ; relative measurements&lt;/code&gt; and calling &lt;code&gt;G1 Z30&lt;/code&gt; to go up another 30 mm, though this might be too high for the printer frame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2019-02-02T22:33:02.077" LastActivityDate="2019-02-02T22:33:02.077" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8142" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-02-03T01:26:59.970" Score="0" ViewCount="936" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an Anet A8 with Marlin Firmware 1.1.9 and I installed a BLTouch sensor. When I start the system the BLTouch does its self test (extend and retract the probe twice) and then lights up red. When I &quot;Auto Home&quot;, it homes X, then Y and then extends and retracts the probe and moves up a few millimeters. Then with the probe retracted it moves down until the nozzle crashes into the table. The same happens when I select &quot;Level bed&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Safe Homing is active.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What am I doing wrong?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My current Configuration.h can be found &lt;a href=&quot;https://drive.google.com/open?id=1yaL3DLFM5z6QeZ-q0CUa1X6bw25cdVWK&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14432" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-02-03T06:51:37.480" LastActivityDate="2019-02-03T06:51:37.480" Title="Anet A8 &amp; BLTouch not homing Z" Tags="|z-axis|anet-a8|bltouch|homing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8143" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1334" CreationDate="2019-02-03T04:46:51.250" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think what you are trying to do is somewhat non-trivial so whatever tool you choose there will be some learning curve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;OpenSCAD, as mentioned above, is pretty well established as an open source tool for modifying STLs; however you have to be comfortable writing programmatic CAD instead of using GUI tools.  Personally, I think programmatic CAD is MUCH easier but I realize not everyone feels that way.  FWIW, I would probably break this into three STLs using a DIFFERENCE method, stretch the outer ones using a SCALE method, then use a UNION to put them back together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The one problem that I've had with OpenSCAD is that it will frequently crash unexpectedly or run incredibly slowly when dealing with an STL with a large number of triangles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;AtomicCompiler.com is very similar to OpenSCAD but runs as a web service and seems to do a bit better when dealing with large STLs.  I might try that first, as it doesn't require  a download or even a login.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14434" LastActivityDate="2019-02-03T04:46:51.250" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8144" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6188" CreationDate="2019-02-03T05:16:33.020" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Don't try to do it in the slicing program, instead create a new STL that is the difference.  The slicing program shouldn't be used to modify STLs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Plus, this is a pretty quick and easy thing to do.  You can do a difference operation using OpenSCAD (as mentioned above) or atomiccompiler.com if you don't want to install new software just for one operation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14434" LastActivityDate="2019-02-03T05:16:33.020" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8145" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8142" CreationDate="2019-02-03T05:19:39.720" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You must invert the logic of the endstop Z_min.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;define Z_MIN_ENDSTOP_INVERTING true&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;define Z_MIN_ENDSTOP_INVERTING False&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14392" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:29:41.667" LastActivityDate="2019-02-03T05:19:39.720" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8146" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6188" CreationDate="2019-02-03T09:21:55.060" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the objects are manifold and has no issues, Blender can perform boolean operations. I would prefer blender over OpenSCAD as OpenSCAD crashes (at least for me) if there are issues with the mesh; over 3DMax because it is free, fast, and smaller to download and works in my choice of operating system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Import STL files by File, Import, STL. If that option is not enabled: File, User Preferences, Add-ons, search for STL and enable that option.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Simply select the main object with right click, on the right panel find modifiers with wrench icon, click add modifier and select the operation (difference) and the other object. If the result is not satisfying, try Carve in the solver options. If there are problems in the result it is generally because of issues with the STL files. Use a tool fix those issues and try again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you are happy with the result, you can export by selecting your object, going into File, export, STL and select Selected only option so that the negative object will not be merged with the carved result while exporting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8651" LastActivityDate="2019-02-03T09:21:55.060" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8147" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1334" CreationDate="2019-02-03T09:25:24.450" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would suggest using Blender for this purpose. It has excellent selection tools, you can undo/redo selection and obviously you can resize any portion without affecting the others. However, you may need to learn Blender to an intermediate level to be able to effectively do that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8651" LastActivityDate="2019-02-03T09:25:24.450" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8148" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7746" CreationDate="2019-02-03T09:54:03.880" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;It could be over extrusion.&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since I do not have physical access to your prints I cannot make sure. Please check if the thickness of the part is actually higher than what it supposed to be. Also, check the printing process during the print. Is the object taller than the nozzle at any time? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I generally have the same problem at the first layer, as sometimes I squeeze the first layer too much, causing extreme over extrusion. But unlike your case, upper layers kind of fixes the issue. In your case, the issue is amplified as you get higher. Walls turn out to be ok as there is room for flament to grow around, it is the flat surfaces that will got hit bad.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I strongly suggest you to print calibration pieces to ensure correct setting. If you have caliper you could try &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2490893&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; or if you don't &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:14630&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; one might help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8651" LastActivityDate="2019-02-03T09:54:03.880" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8149" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-02-03T15:18:45.167" Score="1" ViewCount="2480" Body="&lt;p&gt;OpenSCAD has &lt;code&gt;rotate&lt;/code&gt; function which rotates the body around its origin axis.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a way to specify an arbitrary axis?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, this rotates a cylinder around its center:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;rotate(a=[90,0,0]) {&#xA;  cylinder(h=10,r1=10,r2=10);&#xA;}&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How to make it rotate around its edge?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13598" LastActivityDate="2019-02-03T16:42:46.690" Title="How to specify rotation origin in openscad" Tags="|openscad|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2019-02-05T12:29:56.747" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8150" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8139" CreationDate="2019-02-03T15:19:17.930" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;You are using &lt;strong&gt;incorrect commands&lt;/strong&gt; in your end-code for the &lt;strong&gt;incorrect tool&lt;/strong&gt; with respect to the print head raise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Slic3r has no knowledge of the maximum printer height (as in variable &lt;code&gt;max_print_height&lt;/code&gt;) because there is &lt;strong&gt;no input field to specify this&lt;/strong&gt;, as can be seen in this partial screenshot:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qPz1z.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qPz1z.png&quot; alt=&quot;Slic3r print area settings&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, in Slic3r PE (Prusa Edition), there is a possibility to enter such a value, as seen in the following partial screenshot:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lCHxV.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lCHxV.png&quot; alt=&quot;Slic3r PE print volume settings&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that in both editions, the &lt;code&gt;Bed shape&lt;/code&gt; interface is equivalent when &lt;code&gt;Set...&lt;/code&gt; is pressed:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jTLBm.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jTLBm.png&quot; alt=&quot;Slic3r and Slic3r PE bed area settings&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To use the raising of the head, respecting the maximum print height, in &lt;strong&gt;Slic3r PE&lt;/strong&gt;, you need to add the following line:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;{if layer_z &amp;lt; max_print_height}G1 Z{z_offset+min(layer_z+60, max_print_height)}{endif}&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This will parse fine in &lt;strong&gt;Slic3r PE&lt;/strong&gt;, but not in &lt;strong&gt;Slic3r&lt;/strong&gt; (as &lt;code&gt;max_print_height&lt;/code&gt; is not known).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want such a command in &lt;strong&gt;Slic3r&lt;/strong&gt;, you need to enter (for a printer with a maximum print height of 240&amp;nbsp;mm):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;G1 Z{[z_offset]+min([layer_z]+3, 240)}&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;results in Slic3r for a 20x20x20&amp;nbsp;mm calibration cube with a zero &lt;code&gt;z_offset&lt;/code&gt; to:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;G1 Z23&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-02-03T18:35:10.463" LastActivityDate="2019-02-03T18:35:10.463" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8151" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8149" CreationDate="2019-02-03T16:27:21.453" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;code&gt;rotate()&lt;/code&gt; always rotates around the origin of the object following it.&#xA;What you can do is to move your cylinder &lt;em&gt;away&lt;/em&gt; from the origin, like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;rotate(a=[90,0,0]) {&#xA;  translate([0,10,0]) cylinder(h=10,r1=10,r2=10);&#xA;}&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6785" LastActivityDate="2019-02-03T16:27:21.453" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8152" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8149" CreationDate="2019-02-03T16:42:46.690" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can use the following module in your code to achieve what you wish:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;module myrotate(a, orig) {&#xA;    translate(orig)&#xA;    rotate(a)&#xA;    translate(-orig)&#xA;    children();&#xA;}&#xA;&#xA;myrotate([0,0,90], [0, 10, 0]) {&#xA;    cube([10, 10, 25]);&#xA;}&#xA;&#xA;myrotate([0,0,-90], [0, 10, 0]) {&#xA;    cube([10, 10, 25]);&#xA;}&#xA;&#xA;color([1, 0, 0])&#xA;cube([10, 10, 25]);&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8651" LastActivityDate="2019-02-03T16:42:46.690" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8153" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8154" CreationDate="2019-02-03T19:06:07.593" Score="20" ViewCount="60981" Body="&lt;p&gt;In setting up a probe for automatic bed leveling, the limits of the probing area must be entered in the firmware of a 3D printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When using a sensor, how do you define the bed limits for the sensor in Marlin firmware?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;E.g. the Marlin (1.1.x) &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/blob/1.1.x/Marlin/Configuration.h&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;configuration.h&lt;/a&gt; contains the following inactive statements:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&#xA;  // Set the boundaries for probing (where the probe can reach).&#xA;  //#define LEFT_PROBE_BED_POSITION MIN_PROBE_EDGE&#xA;  //#define RIGHT_PROBE_BED_POSITION (X_BED_SIZE - MIN_PROBE_EDGE)&#xA;  //#define FRONT_PROBE_BED_POSITION MIN_PROBE_EDGE&#xA;  //#define BACK_PROBE_BED_POSITION (Y_BED_SIZE - MIN_PROBE_EDGE)&#xA;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do you set the values for the constants of your custom setup? Is this generic or specific?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Probe positioning is defined in the Marlin configuration as:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&#xA; *      +-- BACK ---+&#xA; *      |           |&#xA; *    L |    (+) P  | R&#xA; *    E |           | I&#xA; *    F | (-) N (+) | G&#xA; *    T |           | H&#xA; *      |    (-)    | T&#xA; *      |           |&#xA; *      O-- FRONT --+&#xA; *    (0,0)&#xA;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The probe could be placed with a positive or negative X and Y value. Considering this position, how to setup the sensor bed limits?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-01-02T19:48:39.423" LastActivityDate="2021-05-10T21:45:10.883" Title="How to set Z-probe boundary limits in firmware when using automatic bed leveling?" Tags="|marlin|bed-leveling|z-probe|knowledgebase|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8154" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8153" CreationDate="2019-02-03T19:06:07.593" Score="29" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a few questions on this topic, so a more generic solution would be informative and will prevent multiple questions of others when their sensor has a slightly different location. This answer intends to cover any position with respect to the nozzle. It also does not matter what kind of sensor it is, it can be 3DTouch, BLTouch, inductive, capacitive, etc., as long as you are able to determine the offset to the nozzle (center to center).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For now, it is assumed that the nozzle can only reach the complete area of the bed, no extra space. So unless the sensor runs of the bed, the nozzle limits are used, otherwise the sensor limits the nozzle with respect to the sensor limits. This is the safest assumption and will prevent the carriage running into the end mounts. But if there is more room for travel, an additional offset may be added to the limits.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;First&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt;, determine the offset of the sensor (e.g. by measurement or taken from the information of the printable sensor bracket found many share sites on the internet; &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Thingiverse&lt;/a&gt; is a good source for such brackets).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;HINT for Marlin 2.x&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Note the version (branch) of Marlin!&lt;/strong&gt; The answer is written at the time of the 1.1.x branch and as such is perfectly valid for the latest 1.1.x (1.1.9) version. For the 2.0.x branch of Marlin, different constant names are in use, and a different strategy is used (more simple for setting up). The constant names are not found in the &lt;code&gt;Configuration.h&lt;/code&gt;, the answer (and the theory) is still helpful. Constant probe offset values are now found in &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Configurations/blob/master/config/default/Configuration_adv.h&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Configuration_adv.h&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;MIN_PROBE_EDGE_LEFT&#xA;MIN_PROBE_EDGE_RIGHT&#xA;MIN_PROBE_EDGE_FRONT&#xA;MIN_PROBE_EDGE_BACK&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;HINT for Marlin &amp;gt;= 2.0.6&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since version&lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/releases/tag/2.0.6&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;code&gt;2.0.6&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/a&gt; &lt;code&gt;MIN_PROBE_EDGE_*&lt;/code&gt; has been renamed again.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Configurations/blob/c322f2c8d79e4e72e1b50939a9ae659be8260a2d/config/examples/Micromake/C1/enhanced/Configuration_adv.h#L1882&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Now it is&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;PROBING_MARGIN_LEFT&#xA;PROBING_MARGIN_RIGHT&#xA;PROBING_MARGIN_FRONT&#xA;PROBING_MARGIN_BACK&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that in Marlin 1.1.x the boundaries are set in absolute positions while in Marlin 2.0.x it is described in offset values from the bed edge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Sensor Offset&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The position of the sensor is set using the following constants:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&#xA;#define X_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER [XXX]   // X offset: -left  +right  [of the nozzle]&#xA;#define Y_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER [YYY]   // Y offset: -front +behind [the nozzle]&#xA;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;where &lt;code&gt;[XXX]&lt;/code&gt; and &lt;code&gt;[YYY]&lt;/code&gt; are offset values that specify the center of the sensor with respect to the nozzle. If both are positive values, the sensor is located in the back-right, if both negative, the position is front-left (as seen from the front of the machine using the definition in the Marlin configuration file). The other positions that are possible are the back-left and the front-right (one positive and one negative value).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;HINT for Marlin 2.x&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that in Marlin 2.x, these constants are replace by an array definition:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#define NOZZLE_TO_PROBE_OFFSET { XXX, YYY, ZZZ }&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Where &lt;code&gt;ZZZ&lt;/code&gt; is the Z offset. If you use the old constants, the sanity check upon compiling will throw an assertion that these constants are not in use anymore and should be removed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Second&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt;, let's set the sensor area limits!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Sensor Area Limits&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the following images, the nozzle, the sensor and the offsets are defined by:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HfYc5.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Legend of nozzle, sensor and offset&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HfYc5.png&quot; alt=&quot;Legend of nozzle, sensor and offset&quot; title=&quot;Legend of nozzle, sensor and offset&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are four possible positions of the sensor, this results in the following schematics for the sensor area limits (transparent red area):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;1. Sensor at the back-right:&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VwcWg.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Probe area for back-right probe&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VwcWg.png&quot; alt=&quot;Probe area for back-right probe&quot; title=&quot;Probe area for back-right probe&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This implies that the sensor can reach the back and the right borders, so the limits are set by:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&#xA;#define LEFT_PROBE_BED_POSITION (X_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER)&#xA;#define RIGHT_PROBE_BED_POSITION (X_BED_SIZE)&#xA;#define FRONT_PROBE_BED_POSITION (Y_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER)&#xA;#define BACK_PROBE_BED_POSITION (Y_BED_SIZE)&#xA;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that if a minimum probe offset is defined by &lt;code&gt;#define MIN_PROBE_EDGE [value] &lt;/code&gt; in the configuration (to account for sensor width/dimension), the bed limits are changed resulting in (where t = &lt;code&gt;MIN_PROBE_EDGE&lt;/code&gt;):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AUeGF.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Probe area for back-right probe with MIN_PROBE_EDGE offset&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AUeGF.png&quot; alt=&quot;Probe area for back-right probe with MIN_PROBE_EDGE offset&quot; title=&quot;Probe area for back-right probe with MIN_PROBE_EDGE offset&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Limits are then set by:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&#xA;#define LEFT_PROBE_BED_POSITION (X_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER + MIN_PROBE_EDGE)&#xA;#define RIGHT_PROBE_BED_POSITION (X_BED_SIZE - MIN_PROBE_EDGE)&#xA;#define FRONT_PROBE_BED_POSITION (Y_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER + MIN_PROBE_EDGE)&#xA;#define BACK_PROBE_BED_POSITION (Y_BED_SIZE - MIN_PROBE_EDGE)&#xA;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the following sensor position placements, this offset for &lt;code&gt;MIN_PROBE_EDGE&lt;/code&gt; will be accounted for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;2. Sensor at the back-left:&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/R1LVk.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Probe area for back-left probe&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/R1LVk.png&quot; alt=&quot;Probe area for back-left probe&quot; title=&quot;Probe area for back-left probe&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This implies that the sensor can reach the back and the left borders (for zero &lt;code&gt;MIN_PROBE_EDGE&lt;/code&gt;), so the limits are set by:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&#xA;#define LEFT_PROBE_BED_POSITION (MIN_PROBE_EDGE)&#xA;#define RIGHT_PROBE_BED_POSITION (X_BED_SIZE  + X_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER - MIN_PROBE_EDGE)&#xA;#define FRONT_PROBE_BED_POSITION (Y_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER + MIN_PROBE_EDGE)&#xA;#define BACK_PROBE_BED_POSITION (Y_BED_SIZE - MIN_PROBE_EDGE)&#xA;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;3. Sensor at the front-left:&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nzBDr.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Probe area for front-left probe&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nzBDr.png&quot; alt=&quot;Probe area for front-left probe&quot; title=&quot;Probe area for front-left probe&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This implies that the sensor can reach the front and the left borders (for zero &lt;code&gt;MIN_PROBE_EDGE&lt;/code&gt;), so the limits are set by:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&#xA;#define LEFT_PROBE_BED_POSITION (MIN_PROBE_EDGE)&#xA;#define RIGHT_PROBE_BED_POSITION (X_BED_SIZE  + X_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER - MIN_PROBE_EDGE)&#xA;#define FRONT_PROBE_BED_POSITION (MIN_PROBE_EDGE)&#xA;#define BACK_PROBE_BED_POSITION (Y_BED_SIZE + Y_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER - MIN_PROBE_EDGE)&#xA;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;4. Sensor at the front-right:&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0HV7I.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Probe area for back-right probe&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0HV7I.png&quot; alt=&quot;Probe area for back-right probe&quot; title=&quot;Probe area for back-right probe&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This implies that the sensor can reach the front and the right borders (for zero &lt;code&gt;MIN_PROBE_EDGE&lt;/code&gt;), so the limits are set by:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&#xA;#define LEFT_PROBE_BED_POSITION (X_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER + MIN_PROBE_EDGE)&#xA;#define RIGHT_PROBE_BED_POSITION (X_BED_SIZE  - MIN_PROBE_EDGE)&#xA;#define FRONT_PROBE_BED_POSITION (MIN_PROBE_EDGE)&#xA;#define BACK_PROBE_BED_POSITION (Y_BED_SIZE + Y_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER - MIN_PROBE_EDGE)&#xA;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This should have tackled the basics for defining the sensor area limits. It becomes a little more complicated when there is extra travel space. A very easy use of extra travel space can be found in the configuration file; e.g:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&#xA;// Travel limits (mm) after homing, corresponding to endstop positions.&#xA;#define X_MIN_POS [XX]&#xA;#define Y_MIN_POS [YY]&#xA;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;where &lt;code&gt;[XX]&lt;/code&gt; and &lt;code&gt;[YY]&lt;/code&gt; are offset values from endstop to origin (orange arrows represent &lt;code&gt;X_MIN_POS&lt;/code&gt; and &lt;code&gt;Y_MIN_POS&lt;/code&gt;):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jr7Yb.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Probe area for back-right probe including homing endstop offsets&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jr7Yb.png&quot; alt=&quot;Probe area for back-right probe including homing endstop offsets&quot; title=&quot;Probe area for back-right probe including homing endstop offsets&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;Results in offset constants for a back-right probe:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&#xA;#define LEFT_PROBE_BED_POSITION (X_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER + X_MIN_POS + MIN_PROBE_EDGE)&#xA;#define RIGHT_PROBE_BED_POSITION (X_BED_SIZE - MIN_PROBE_EDGE)&#xA;#define FRONT_PROBE_BED_POSITION (Y_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER + Y_MIN_POS + MIN_PROBE_EDGE)&#xA;#define BACK_PROBE_BED_POSITION (Y_BED_SIZE - MIN_PROBE_EDGE)&#xA;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For all other options, a similar addition of the homing offsets can applied.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A similar addition is possible if the print head is able to travel further on the X or Y axis at the other ends of the axes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Thoughts for solution for Marlin 2.0.x&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As I mentioned earlier, Marlin 2.0.x uses bed edge offsets rather than absolute positions. In analogy of the previous graphs we can draw a bed limits diagram (&lt;em&gt;the example below assumes a back-right mounted probe!&lt;/em&gt;):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BesT8.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BesT8.png&quot; alt=&quot;Marlin 2.0.x bed sensor limits&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that the offsets from the edge need to be defined, to properly do this we need access to the definition of the nozzle offset:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#define NOZZLE_TO_PROBE_OFFSET { XXX, YYY, ZZZ }&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As this is the part that defines the array values, you first need to make an array (note that this is a simple solution that many people should be able to understand with limited programming skills, more elegant solutions use the XYZ struct to access the X, Y or Z properties):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that Marlin 2.0.x automatically adjusts your probe area based on the defined offset and the &lt;code&gt;MIN_PROBE_EDGE&lt;/code&gt; defined for all 4 sides of the bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/blob/2.0.x/Marlin/Configuration_adv.h&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;see&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#if PROBE_SELECTED &amp;amp;&amp;amp; !IS_KINEMATIC&#xA;  #define MIN_PROBE_EDGE_LEFT MIN_PROBE_EDGE&#xA;  #define MIN_PROBE_EDGE_RIGHT MIN_PROBE_EDGE&#xA;  #define MIN_PROBE_EDGE_FRONT MIN_PROBE_EDGE&#xA;  #define MIN_PROBE_EDGE_BACK MIN_PROBE_EDGE&#xA;#endif&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2021-05-10T21:45:10.883" LastActivityDate="2021-05-10T21:45:10.883" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8159" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8161" CreationDate="2019-02-04T02:40:16.637" Score="6" ViewCount="11780" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I run prints on my Creality CR-10S Pro 3D printer (using Ultimaker Cura as slicer), I set the heated bed to around 70&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C for PETG. after the first few layers, the heated bed set point changes to 0&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it normal for a 3D printer to turn the heated bed off during a print, or is this a problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have had some parts warping, and wonder if this is a potential cause.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14437" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-01-20T14:45:12.717" LastActivityDate="2022-02-09T15:10:29.580" Title="Creality CR-10S Pro 3D printer heated bed turns off after first few layers: normal?" Tags="|heated-bed|creality-cr-10|heat-management|warping|" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8160" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8159" CreationDate="2019-02-04T06:00:26.177" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;That is not normal behavior for the heated beds. I don't have that exact model, but when I print the heated bed will stay to whatever temp was set in the slicer program. Unless you override it manually on the printer itself during the print. I would check slicer settings ensuring temp doesn't change after it's first layers. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14439" LastActivityDate="2019-02-04T06:00:26.177" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8161" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8159" CreationDate="2019-02-04T07:03:06.067" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;No&lt;/strong&gt;, this is not common behavior, and &lt;strong&gt;yes&lt;/strong&gt; this can cause your prints to warp or detach from the build plate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The question is whether you instructed this (by accident) or not (e.g. it can be a result from slicing or some economy mode of the printer). This should be clear if you look into the G-code file that you print. The typical commands that concern bed heating are &lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#M140:_Set_Bed_Temperature_.28Fast.29&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;code&gt;M140&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#M190:_Wait_for_bed_temperature_to_reach_target_temp&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;code&gt;M190&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please note that this a generic answer to find bed heating operation in your G-code file. Other answers, e.g &lt;a href=&quot;/a/8425/&quot;&gt;this one&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;/a/8285/&quot;&gt;this one&lt;/a&gt; hint to a specific ability of the printer that shuts off the heating of the bed when it is working in an economic mode. Note that this is printer specific.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-01-20T14:33:51.883" LastActivityDate="2020-01-20T14:33:51.883" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8162" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-02-04T13:32:22.127" Score="1" ViewCount="11642" Body="&lt;p&gt;A couple of weeks ago I have successfully built a 3D Printer and Printed an XYZ Calibration Cube with ABS material at bed temperature 80 °C.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next Day I tried bed heating at bed temperature 80 °C,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Screen is blank&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and it's not heating at all and showing Following error.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bed Heating Failed&#xA;Printer Halted&#xA;Please Reset&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Specification board&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I use a RAMPS 1.4 running Marlin 1.1.X&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Troubleshooting&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I searched on Google and tried possible solutions but they are not working.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I changed the thermistor and nothing happened, the old thermistor is also showing the same temperature.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I connected 12V Supply Positive to SMPS (Switched-Mode Power Supply) and Negative to RAMPS 1.4 and not working&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I checked the Voltage at heat bed it's showing zero in spite connecting to SMPS&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please let me know how can I fix the problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vMlmM.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vMlmM.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;I have blank image after pressing 80 °C&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14440" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:29:41.667" LastActivityDate="2021-05-26T18:25:24.740" Title="Bed Heating Failed, Printer Halted, Please Reset" Tags="|prusa-i3|diy-3d-printer|ramps-1.4|troubleshooting|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8163" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8165" CreationDate="2019-02-04T22:11:56.383" Score="6" ViewCount="1199" Body="&lt;p&gt;Heads up: I'm not good with electronics and only have a vague idea of it's inner workings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a &lt;a href=&quot;https://ru.aliexpress.com/item/3D-Printer-V6-Wade-Short-distance-J-head-Hotend-12V-for-1-75mm-3-0mm-Extruder/32810022530.html?spm=a2g0v.10010108.1000016.1.197a7c35uzmRpw&amp;amp;isOrigTitle=true&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;E3D V6 Extruder rated for 24&amp;nbsp;V&lt;/a&gt;, that i plan to use in my 3D printer. Will there be any problems with it if powered by 12&amp;nbsp;V? Will it take longer to heat up? Will it be able to heat up enough to melt PLA? Will it work at all for that matter?&#xA;If there are any other quirks or potential problems that I overlooked, please let me know.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14444" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-02-04T22:17:30.903" LastActivityDate="2019-05-19T06:26:40.993" Title="Can an extruder rated for 24 V work with 12 V ATX power supply?" Tags="|extruder|electronics|power-supply|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8165" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8163" CreationDate="2019-02-04T22:57:48.503" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Electrical engineering can be quite complex, but in this case you can save yourself with same simple equations/relations. Using the following formulae:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Voltage (&lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$\ U$&lt;/span&gt;) equals current (&lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$I$&lt;/span&gt;) multiplied by the electrical resistance (&lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$R$&lt;/span&gt;)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$$ U=I \times R $$&lt;/span&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Power (&lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$P$&lt;/span&gt;) equals the square of the current multiplied by the electrical resistance&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$$ P=I^2 \times R $$&lt;/span&gt;&#xA;can be rewritten using the first formula to:&#xA;&lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$$ P= \frac{U^2}{R} $$&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Applying these formulae to a &lt;strong&gt;40&amp;nbsp;Watt, 24&amp;nbsp;V&lt;/strong&gt; heater element, the electrical resistance (in &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$\Omega $&lt;/span&gt;) is calculated by:&#xA;&lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$$ \frac{{(24\ V)}^2}{40\ W}=14.4\ \Omega $$&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Running this heater element with 12&amp;nbsp;V will lead to a power of &#xA;&lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$$ \frac{{(12\ V)}^2}{14.4\ \Omega}=10\ W $$&lt;/span&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The heat produced is proportional to the square of the current multiplied by the electrical resistance, &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;halving the voltage&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; is &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;quartering the heat output&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;. This will heat up very slowly! If it is able to reach the required temperature that is. Calculating the temperature is far more difficult, but if you are interested in doing so, please look into &lt;a href=&quot;https://electronics.stackexchange.com/a/33009/&quot;&gt;this answer&lt;/a&gt; from the &lt;a href=&quot;https://electronics.stackexchange.com/&quot;&gt;Electrical Engineering&lt;/a&gt; Stack Exchange.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-02-07T07:51:25.777" LastActivityDate="2019-02-07T07:51:25.777" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8166" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8167" CreationDate="2019-02-05T03:19:35.577" Score="2" ViewCount="336" Body="&lt;p&gt;[Edit: My specific question is firmware error or standard layer shifting. using 2 different versions of Cura were getting quite different results from the same stl file.] &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Per the image below with Cura 15.4 the centered print both shifted to the bottom of the print bed for the first few passes and then did not build the proper internal structure of the bracket. the top loops were then skewed to the top of the bed.  The 2&lt;sup&gt;nd&lt;/sup&gt; print in the corner was using Cura 3.1 and the first few passes like usual skewed off towards the bottom but it seemed to start printing normally after that.  I am trying to determine if it is a hardware calibration issue or bad firmware on the printer. Any suggestions on what's going on would be appreciated. For some reason the image flipped 180&amp;deg; when posting. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Center part completed its print and should be about an inch or so tall. It was not even able to build the internal structure like the 2&lt;sup&gt;nd&lt;/sup&gt; one had started to do. the 2&lt;sup&gt;nd&lt;/sup&gt; one I stopped after about 10&amp;nbsp;min since it clearly showed different behavior. from the layer shifting links the most likely cause would be over current stepping. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CNiUU.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CNiUU.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Failed layer shifting prints&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6033" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-02-06T06:58:03.370" LastActivityDate="2019-02-06T10:29:10.623" Title="Print layer shifting on Alunar M508 Prusa i3 clone" Tags="|troubleshooting|y-axis|print-failure|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8167" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8166" CreationDate="2019-02-05T07:52:10.170" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;This effect is called &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/#layer-shifting-or-misalignment&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;layer shifting &lt;/a&gt;. Now that you know what it is called you could look at some other solutions fixing this issue; e.g. &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/7699/how-to-fix-y-layer-shift-on-creality-ender-3&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/7580/layer-shifting-on-product-printing-after-raft-support-structure&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/7867/what-causes-this-stringing-and-can-my-print-recover-from-this/7875#7875&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;. The answers of &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/7699/how-to-fix-y-layer-shift-on-creality-ender-3/7700#7700&quot;&gt;this question&lt;/a&gt; describe best what is causing this. Usually (most of all the cases) it means that your belts are not tight enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An edit of the question shows that the effect happens when a different version of Ultimaker Cura is being used. In such cases you need to check the speeds and acceleration settings. Too high values may lead to skipping steps causing layer shifting. Be sure it is not a mechanical issue, also note that the nozzle does not get caught up by the uneven tape on the bed. In that effect, you may want to look at &lt;a href=&quot;/q/3314/&quot;&gt;this unaswered question&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-02-06T10:29:10.623" LastActivityDate="2019-02-06T10:29:10.623" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8168" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8162" CreationDate="2019-02-05T10:30:54.180" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Check that your heated bed is still working: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Measure the resistance of your heated bed. It depends an the power&#xA;rating of the bed, but 12V beds usually have values &amp;lt;3 Ohms. That's&#xA;hard to measure for cheap multimeters, but you just need to check&#xA;that it's not MOhms which would indicate a broken heated bed.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your heated bed could also have a short. That's hard to measure, as &amp;lt;3Ohms are already 'almost a short'. You'll only notice because your&#xA;bed will not get warm, but the wires, connectors and elements on the&#xA;RAMPS will get even hotter. Marlin should detect this and switch off&#xA;after a few seconds.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check your thermistor. Seems you already did that.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check your RAMPS by measuring the voltage on the bed connector while setting the bed to heat up. You should see 12V, at least in the&#xA;frist few seconds.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14446" LastActivityDate="2019-02-05T10:30:54.180" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8169" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8163" CreationDate="2019-02-05T11:02:25.353" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, it probably won't work as you want. As explained in another answer, you will only achieve 25% of the expected power. So it will take 4 times as long to heat up, will have a lower 'highest temperature', and most critically will reduce the possible print speed by a factor of around 4 (actually more, since a proportion of the power is lost to the room rather than used to melt filament).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I guess that you &lt;em&gt;could&lt;/em&gt; print with this setup as a temporary measure (so long as it's PLA, or some other low-ish temperature filament). It would not be a sensible choice, particularly since the extruder only needs a single component to be swapped out to change between 12 V and 24 V operation (the heater cartridge). All the mechanical parts will be identical between the two versions, and these are the 'expensive' elements in the assembly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4927" LastActivityDate="2019-02-05T11:02:25.353" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8170" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8129" CreationDate="2019-02-05T13:53:07.797" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Don't know about your specific printer model, but I encountered late print fails with clogged systems due to plastic molten above the heat break due to excessive use of retracts.&#xA;Retracting hot material transports heat up into the normally cooled down heat break part.&#xA;If you set up a very long retract or retract very often, the amount of heat can surpass what the fan is able to push off and soften the filament above the heat break.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Try adjusting the retraction settings in your slicer and see if it helps on longer prints.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14446" LastActivityDate="2019-02-05T13:53:07.797" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8171" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-02-05T17:50:25.637" Score="2" ViewCount="2245" Body="&lt;p&gt;My Prusa Mk3 has been making this sort of rough surface on prints, and I'm not sure what caused this. I am printing with PLA Prusament with 0.2&amp;nbsp;mm layer height at the preset for PLA. What is this, and how can I fix it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qRzOM.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qRzOM.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Print with rough surface finish&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strike&gt;Edit: Changed absolutely nothing, tried again and problem solved!&lt;/strike&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14450" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-07-15T08:37:37.697" LastActivityDate="2019-08-14T09:01:05.103" Title="Prusa Mk3 printing rough surfaces" Tags="|print-quality|prusa-i3|troubleshooting|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8172" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-02-05T18:18:00.183" Score="3" ViewCount="592" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm designing a box and lid that will be FDM-printed. The lid push-fits onto the box. &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/q/6576/13100&quot;&gt;What kinds of gaps/tolerances should I use when designing pieces that fit together?&lt;/a&gt; has advice for designing the clearance between the lid and the box. Assume I've already settled that question and I have a good clearance so my lid slides on and off freely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now I'd like to add a lip-and-groove feature to my design to hold it shut, with a lip on the lid that clips into a groove in the box when the lid is fully closed - like a cantilever fit, but easy to open, and directly on the mating walls.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How deep should I make the lip and how tall? Does it depend on what plastic I'm printing in? Does it depend on the wall thickness and the geometric rigidity of the part?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13100" LastActivityDate="2019-07-09T09:22:53.910" Title="How do I decide what size my push-fit feature should be?" Tags="|3d-design|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8173" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8129" CreationDate="2019-02-05T18:59:18.503" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The symptoms you describe hint to heat creep. Heat creep is the gradual increase in temperature of the cold end assembly (cooling fins and heat break). This gradual temperature increase leads to too high filament temperatures and as such premature filament softening. In combination with (large) retraction settings, this can lead to clogging of the nozzle. All-metal hotend assemblies are more prone experiencing these problems; lined hotends have a PTFE lining that also insulates the filament so that it does not soften prematurely like in all-metal hotends can happen. Heat creep is best remedied by properly cooling the hotend (good quality fan, no obstructions or large ducts) and reducing the retraction length (and possibly lowering the print temperature, but you already tried that). You could also contact the manufacturer for advice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-02-07T17:43:54.667" LastActivityDate="2019-02-07T17:43:54.667" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8174" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5719" CreationDate="2019-02-05T19:33:15.677" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've seen this on my Prusa clone. It looks to me like the nozzle is a bit too close to the bed so not enough plastic is being extruded. I got a perfect PLA print at 215&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C and 0.2&amp;nbsp;mm for the first layer and 210&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C with 0.15&amp;nbsp;mm for the rest. When I tried 215&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C/0.3&amp;nbsp;mm first layer and 210&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C/0.2&amp;nbsp;mm on a large print I got poor adhesion and a warped corner. I used the same Z height offset.&#xA;I didn't get a picture but it looks like the opposite problem to yours; not enough squish down on the first layer. I print with hairspray directly on aluminum and usually get great results. I'm going to retry with a more negative offset and will post pictures of the results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14451" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-02-05T21:24:25.633" LastActivityDate="2019-02-05T21:24:25.633" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8175" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-02-06T05:23:15.720" Score="0" ViewCount="567" Body="&lt;p&gt;For some reason, the bottom few layers printed on my Ender 3 are distorted. Used the benchy from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.3dbenchy.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.3dbenchy.com/&lt;/a&gt; and Cura 3.6.0, sliced with default settings for Ender 3 on the draft preset. The material is Hatchbox PLA. I think the bed is leveled pretty well, but there might be some adjustments I could make.&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/37sA5.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/37sA5.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Warping on the bottom layers&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14454" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2019-02-06T11:44:01.703" LastActivityDate="2019-02-06T11:44:01.703" Title="The bottom few layers printed on Ender 3 are extruded wrong" Tags="|print-quality|troubleshooting|creality-ender-3|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2019-02-07T00:11:25.503" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8177" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8179" CreationDate="2019-02-06T13:40:47.473" Score="3" ViewCount="113" Body="&lt;p&gt;I’m building a 3D printer and need to understand what calibration and bed leveling is, and I was surprised to see there isn’t a clear explanation on the internet anywhere. Does bed leveling compensate for an uneven bed? So then, what does calibrating do? Is it the same thing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14457" LastActivityDate="2019-02-06T18:36:21.843" Title="What exactly does calibrating a 3D printer do?" Tags="|calibration|bed-leveling|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8178" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8171" CreationDate="2019-02-06T13:48:03.470" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;To me this looks like your nozzle is too hot. Try turning the temp down by 5 degrees at a time and see if the issue goes away.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11097" LastActivityDate="2019-02-06T13:48:03.470" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8179" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8177" CreationDate="2019-02-06T14:43:17.433" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;First, welcome to the 3D Printing Stack Exchange!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;On bed leveling&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bed leveling, or more accurately bed tramming, adjusts the bed so that it is even in relation to the print head. Typically it is done by sliding a paper between the nozzle and the bed when Z = 0, or the print head is at its lowest. The amount of friction should be similar to the amount of friction of a sheet of paper between two magazines (recommended by Tom Salander on YouTube I believe). One sheet of paper is about 0.1 mm, which is a common gap and allows for good adhesion of the deposited plastic, and typically the gap is measured at the four corners and the center of the bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;But wait, there's more!&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mesh bed leveling can account for a physically uneven print bed (like a bowing glass sheet) and can be done manually like above or one can mount a sensor so that everything is automatic. The print bed is broken down into a grid (typically 3x3 or 5x5) and the Z height adjusts so that the gap is 0.1 mm at each point in the grid. A mesh is then made and stored in the printer. As the printer prints it makes the necessary variations in height so that the print is flat. Please note that the bed should be leveled as best as possible before setting up the mesh as it will vastly improve the resulting mesh. Mesh leveling is primarily software. The actual level of the bed remains unchanged, thus needing to level it prior to setting up the mesh.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Other calibrations&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bed leveling (including mesh bed leveling) is one aspect of calibration. Other important factors to tune in are temperatures of the nozzle and the bed. For example, PLA has a temperature range of 180-230 °C but each printer is different and may need to print at a higher or lower temperature for best results. Or the printer reports a temperature of 200 °C but the thermistor is off and is actually printing at 190 °C. It's up to the user then to compensate if they want/need to print at an actual 200 °C.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other settings to tune are print speeds, acceleration and jerk, retraction, and extrusion. Faster print speeds can result in poorer quality prints, namely ghosting and under extrusion. Acceleration/jerk works in the same vein since it directly affects speed. Retraction helps with stringing. If the retraction settings are too low then there will be stringing on the model, if it's too high then there can be under extrusion and heat creep. Adjusting the extrusion factor will tell the printer to push more plastic out or push less. The higher the factor the more plastic is pushed. IMO best practice is to leave the factor at 1 in the slicer and calibrate the stepper motor itself (as can be seen &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&amp;amp;rct=j&amp;amp;q=&amp;amp;esrc=s&amp;amp;source=web&amp;amp;cd=2&amp;amp;cad=rja&amp;amp;uact=8&amp;amp;ved=2ahUKEwivk77wqKfgAhUGneAKHZMUCeEQFjABegQIBxAK&amp;amp;url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.youtube.com%2Fwatch%3Fv%3DYUPfBJz3I6Y&amp;amp;usg=AOvVaw1nF4Xfv2efM14jDJDmUtk3&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Calibration models&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are several calibration models on thingiverse that can show common print issues. Some of the popular ones are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1278865&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;calibration cube&lt;/a&gt; which one can ensure that the motors are moving accurately to print out a 20 mm cube. This also shows ghosting along any of the three axes. This cube may also point out if any of the axes aren't 90 degrees perpendicular to each other as the cube should be, well, a cube and not an amorphous shape (thanks to Joel Coehoorn for pointing this out).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:763622&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;3DBenchy&lt;/a&gt; which shows a myriad of potential print quality issues including ghosting, poor overhangs/bridging, and stringing.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2615842&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Temperature Tower&lt;/a&gt; uses post scripting in the slicer to change the temperatures so one can determine the different print qualities across a spectrum of temperature. There are a lot of different models online if this one does not work for you.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;An &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2806295&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;all-in-one test&lt;/a&gt; can do a lot of tests in one model and they are all labeled within the model. (The linked one is the mini version, there are several similar tests online.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;This list is by no means inclusive, there are several other models that can test other problems. These are just what's usually printed (especially the cube and Benchy).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Happy printing!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13883" LastEditorUserId="13883" LastEditDate="2019-02-06T18:36:21.843" LastActivityDate="2019-02-06T18:36:21.843" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8180" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8183" CreationDate="2019-02-06T15:57:30.457" Score="6" ViewCount="1171" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Creatorbot 3D printer made by 3D PrinterWorks.  Their website appears to be down, as well as their Facebook page. To me it appears they are no longer around.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've installed Slic3r as 3D PrinterWorks has recommended in the handbook but cannot download the settings for this from the 3D PrinterWorks website, since that is down.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know where I can get the Slic3r configuration file for the Creatorbot?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14452" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2019-02-07T00:03:56.603" LastActivityDate="2020-06-11T19:24:03.713" Title="Where to get the Slic3r configuration files for the 3D PrinterWorks Creatorbot printers?" Tags="|slic3r|3d-printerworks|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8181" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3234" CreationDate="2019-02-06T16:08:19.997" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had the same issue, but my solution was a little different. Following along with what the others posted about the wheel, I had a jam inside the extruder around that wheel. I missed it the first time I tore it open so no matter how many times I tried the screwdriver trick it didn't work for me. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I figured I'd post so if anyone is coming along trying to find the solution, they can see that it might be a jam on the filament wheel and not just to check the nozzle area. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14458" LastActivityDate="2019-02-06T16:08:19.997" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8182" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8187" CreationDate="2019-02-06T18:22:27.210" Score="1" ViewCount="8192" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is it possible or recommended to print with ASA filament with printer that has no enclosure? I Know that ASA is better than ABS, but is it that better that enclosure is not needed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14276" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2019-07-08T13:54:09.363" LastActivityDate="2019-07-08T13:54:09.363" Title="Print ASA without enclosure" Tags="|filament|enclosure|asa|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8183" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8180" CreationDate="2019-02-06T18:25:19.867" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Looks like 3dprinterworks.net went down sometime after March 2018 and 3dprinterworks.com went down in January 2019. Luckily the Wayback Machine still has the &lt;a href=&quot;https://web.archive.org/web/20161209084908/https://www.3dprinterworks.com/products/creatorbot-3d-pro-series-ii&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;machine's specs&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is the instructions for entering settings in Slic3r as found &lt;a href=&quot;https://manual.slic3r.org/expert-mode/printer-settings&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; in lieu of importing a profile. (Please note that I have not used Slic3r so the following is solely based on the link)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The key settings under General are &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bed size*: X = 305 mm; Y = 305 mm; and Z = 457 mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Print center**: X = 152.5 mm; Y = 152.5 mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Extruders: 2&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Heated Bed: Checked&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Under Extruder (each extruder should have its own settings so be sure to set up both)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Nozzle diameter: 0.4 mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Extruder 2 offset: 30.9 mm (good job, OP on finding the email stating this)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Everything from Retraction and on is up to what works best for you&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There may be a set of setting for acceleration (there is in Ultimaker Cura) which is 3000 mm/s&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; for most printers, I think. This is the max acceleration, not to be confused with acceleration settings when slicing the model.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The next set of settings, though outside of the Slic3r link, regards the filament. The diameter should be 1.75 mm and the nozzle temperature should be within the range of the filament (e.g. PLA should be set within 180-220 °C) and a heated bed set to 50-60 °C. These parameters are filament dependent and not printer dependent (other than diameter).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That should be the settings that a profile would set for you. Thankfully there's not too many.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;*There is a wizard for this section that may make input easier, but here is the build volume. &#xA;**This setting may require whole numbers and may, in fact, not be a necessary setting at all.&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13883" LastEditorUserId="13883" LastEditDate="2019-09-06T13:59:02.630" LastActivityDate="2019-09-06T13:59:02.630" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8184" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8186" CreationDate="2019-02-06T18:45:53.690" Score="6" ViewCount="23139" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Monoprice Maker Select Plus, currently using Ultimaker Cura 3.6.0 with the default settings for a Wanhao Duplicator i3 Plus. Right now when a print finishes, the bed retreats towards the back of the machine. I'd rather present the bed forward for easier part removal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is my ending G-Code:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&#xA;M104 S0      ;extruder heater off &#xA;G91          ;relative positioning&#xA;G1 E-1 F300  ;retract the filament a bit before lifting the nozzle, to release some of the pressure&#xA;G1 Z+0.5 E-5 X-20 Y-20 F{travel_speed} ;move Z up a bit and retract filament even more&#xA;G28 X0 Y0    ;move X/Y to min endstops, so the head is out of the way&#xA;M84          ;steppers off&#xA;G90          ;absolute positioning&#xA;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It looks like I need to change that &lt;code&gt;G28&lt;/code&gt; line third from the bottom, but I'm not sure what to change it to. I've not yet done any g-code manipulation of my own. I don't know what units it's using, and it looks like it still has relative positioning, so even then I don't know it's a good idea to just set it for the max size of the bed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So how can I change this code to move the bed as I want?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12562" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-02-06T19:25:25.137" LastActivityDate="2019-02-08T10:12:25.840" Title="Move print bed to front at the end of a print rather than the back" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|g-code|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8185" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8184" CreationDate="2019-02-06T18:53:12.073" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You're correct that the G28 line should be changed. What I would do is the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;M104 S0 ;extruder heater off &#xA;G91 ;relative positioning&#xA;G1 E-1 F300  ;retract the filament a bit before lifting the nozzle, to release some of the pressure&#xA;G1 Z+0.5 E-5 X-20 Y-20 F{travel_speed} ;move Z up a bit and retract filament even more&#xA;G28 X0 ;move X to min endstop, so the head is out of the way&#xA;G90 ;absolute positioning&#xA;G1 Y200 ;Move bed forward&#xA;M84 ;steppers off&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This way your X axis still gets homed after the Z bumps up and before Y moves to present the print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;G28 is the command to home the print head. Your current settings homes the X and Y axes. G1 is a linear movement. One caveat to this change in G-Code is that there needs to be a home command at the start of your prints since you're not homing afterwards anymore. (I believe most slicers default to a G28 at the start AND end of prints so it's not a major concern, but one to be wary of now just in case.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13883" LastEditorUserId="13883" LastEditDate="2019-02-06T18:58:37.580" LastActivityDate="2019-02-06T18:58:37.580" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8186" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8184" CreationDate="2019-02-06T19:23:01.133" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Note that &lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#G28:_Move_to_Origin_.28Home.29&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this reference&lt;/a&gt; states that:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Because the behavior of &lt;code&gt;G28&lt;/code&gt; is unspecified, it is recommended &lt;strong&gt;not&lt;/strong&gt; to automatically include &lt;code&gt;G28&lt;/code&gt; in your &lt;strong&gt;ending GCode&lt;/strong&gt;. On a Cartesian this will result in damaging the printed object. If you need to move the carriage at the completion of a print, use &lt;code&gt;G0&lt;/code&gt; or &lt;code&gt;G1&lt;/code&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So you need to use a &lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#G0_.26_G1:_Move&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;code&gt;G0&lt;/code&gt; or &lt;code&gt;G1&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/a&gt; move.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When using Ultimaker Cura (like many other slicers), there is built in functionality known as &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/Ultimaker/Cura/issues/1131&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;keywords&lt;/a&gt; with a complete list found &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/Ultimaker/Cura/blob/master/resources/definitions/fdmprinter.def.json&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The keyword &lt;code&gt;machine_depth&lt;/code&gt; is the one that is of use to you, embed this in your end G-code in between curly brackets and it will expand to the bed size of your machine (replacing &lt;code&gt;G28 X0 Y0&lt;/code&gt;):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;code&gt;G1 X0 Y{machine_depth}&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For me this compiles to (e.g. for my coreXY printer):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;code&gt;G1 X0 Y300&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To set the speed, just add the following command prior to the one above:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;code&gt;G1 F2500&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Adding this line before the actual move ensures that the speed is constant, if &lt;code&gt;F2500&lt;/code&gt; would have been included in the move command (like &lt;code&gt;G1 X0 Y{machine_depth} F2500&lt;/code&gt;), this defines the end speed, it would start moving at the last speed value prior to the move.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This results in adding the following lines in your endscript:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&#xA;G1 F2500&#xA;G1 X0 Y{machine_depth}&#xA;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-02-08T10:12:25.840" LastActivityDate="2019-02-08T10:12:25.840" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8187" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8182" CreationDate="2019-02-06T20:52:49.600" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.matterhackers.com/articles/how-to-succeed-when-3d-printing-with-asa-filament&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;MatterHackers&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.simplify3d.com/support/materials-guide/asa/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Simplify3D&lt;/a&gt;, and &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.simplify3d.com/support/materials-guide/asa/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;3D Insider&lt;/a&gt; an enclosure is not necessary but highly recommended as ASA, like ABS, is susceptible to drafts and can warp. A heated bed is necessary (somewhere between 90-110 °C), and little-to-no cooling fan used. The enclosure helps ensure adhesion and a consistent temperature. ASA also has fumes and an enclosure can help contain unwanted smells.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;MattHackers has a video (Step 4 in the link) on making an enclosure with some kind of plastic sheeting or trash bag (I didn't watch it). There are videos on YouTube on using cheap Ikea side tables and acrylic sheets to make an enclosure if you want a more permanent solution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13883" LastActivityDate="2019-02-06T20:52:49.600" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8188" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8189" CreationDate="2019-02-06T21:04:15.697" Score="1" ViewCount="86" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is probably the most basic of questions. When I was shopping for a printer I saw models that would list a slew of certain plastics that the printer can print while other printers (different suppliers) would only list PLA/ABS. At the same time, the instruction manual that came with my printer only listed PLA and ABS.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is actually used to determine the possible material (other than diameter)? I assume that if the nozzle can reach the required temperature to melt the plastic &lt;strong&gt;and&lt;/strong&gt; the bed can reach the necessary temperature to maintain bed adhesion, then my printer can print that plastic. Am I correct? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, my nozzle can reach 250 °C, but the bed can barely reach 80 °C so I can print with ABS but not with ASA (since it needs &lt;em&gt;at least&lt;/em&gt; 90 °C on the bed. However, if I switch out the heating element for something beefier then that opens up anything that needs a hotter bed. Right?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's assume that I have the means to change nozzles and extruder type to fit the need of the filament. The goal of this question is to limit to one or two limiting factors of the printer without major modification.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13883" LastEditorUserId="13883" LastEditDate="2019-02-07T18:09:13.613" LastActivityDate="2019-02-07T18:09:13.613" Title="What kind of filaments can I use?" Tags="|filament-choice|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8189" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8188" CreationDate="2019-02-06T21:26:28.687" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are other factors besides temperature. Certain &quot;soft&quot; filaments won't go well through all extruders, and some other filaments with wood/metal particle additives don't go well through every extruder type and can cause clogging. Even people who do tend to print a lot of these materials will often use a specific nozzle just for those filaments.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, you still &lt;em&gt;might&lt;/em&gt; be able to print even with something like ASA that seems unsupported. You can do this by taking additional measures for bed adhesion, or upgrading or swapping your nozzle or hot end.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can print PLA and ABS, you can probably also print so-called PLA+ and PETG, at a minimum.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12562" LastActivityDate="2019-02-06T21:26:28.687" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8191" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8199" CreationDate="2019-02-07T15:16:44.943" Score="1" ViewCount="1726" Body="&lt;p&gt;I installed a BLTouch on my Ender 3 following this video: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sUlqrSq6LeY&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sUlqrSq6LeY&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I noticed too late was that when installing the BLTouch, I swapped the brown and red wires followed by connecting it to the mainboard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then I realized that the printer wouldn't turn on. After reading some of the comments, I swapped back the wire and I could see the BLTouch do its self-test.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, it seems that I need to plug into the USB before the LCD + motors can work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So is my mainboard fried? Or how should I fix it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14466" LastActivityDate="2019-02-07T23:44:23.003" Title="Ender 3 needs Power Supply AND USB to work" Tags="|troubleshooting|creality-ender-3|bltouch|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8192" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-02-07T17:12:36.503" Score="1" ViewCount="333" Body="&lt;p&gt;What possibilities are there to add a third and fourth extruder to GT2560 rev A?&#xA;The board by default contains connections for two sets of extruder drivers and steppers and has no obvious way to connect more, or some kind of shield/extender.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was thinking about few possibilities:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;find 3 unused pins to control another driver - I think bltouch and pwm fan might be easily available. Not sure if MAX endstops (which are free now) can be used.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;some kind of drivers multiplexing - what if I shared STEP and DIR pins between multiple drivers and used E1_STEP and E1_DIR as E2_ENABLE and E3_ENABLE? I do not want color mixing so only one active extruder at a time might be enough?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;remove both extruder drivers and use these 6 pins as an interface for some kind of extender?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am a SW developer and my experience with electronics is very limited so no idea if any of these makes sense.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Photos with layout and captions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;top - &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.geeetech.com/wiki/images/e/e3/IMG_3771.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.geeetech.com/wiki/images/e/e3/IMG_3771.jpg&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;bottom - &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.geeetech.com/wiki/images/8/80/IMG_3773.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.geeetech.com/wiki/images/8/80/IMG_3773.jpg&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pinout: &lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/wiki/Geeetech_GT2560&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://reprap.org/wiki/Geeetech_GT2560&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14469" LastActivityDate="2019-02-07T17:12:36.503" Title="Adding more extruders to GT2560" Tags="|electronics|stepper-driver|multi-material|geeetech|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8193" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-02-07T17:45:47.377" Score="3" ViewCount="20590" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sadly, I am not able to &quot;repair&quot; my 3D printer. Every time, I want to print something that takes a bit longer to print, the extrusion stops at some point during the print (the first few layers are great), no under-extrusion whatsoever before that critical point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I already tried temperature variation (185-220&amp;nbsp;°C) with about 5 different brands of 1.75&amp;nbsp;mm PLA.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried printing without &lt;em&gt;any&lt;/em&gt; retraction, but failed (I also experimented with flow rate a lot and calculated the perfect percentage etc.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Everytime a print fails, it is a nightmare to remove the PLA filament from my Bowden tube (because it expanded near the nozzle and is stuck in the Bowden tube). I have to pull with so much force, that I already cut myself several times because I slipped off my pliers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As I know for sure (I already wasted almost 1kg of PLA for my testing) the problem is heat creep = heat travelling from the heat block to the PLA above because the heat break or fan seem to be broken.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So my question is: &quot;Will it be enough to buy a new cooling fan (as the standard fan doesnt seem to be powerful enough)?&quot; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;I have to add that I already bought the original hotend long time ago and I tried printing with the &quot;fan of the first hotend&quot; and with the &quot;fan of the second hotend&quot; (the fan that blows air towards the cold end) so that might not be the problem.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or do I need a totally new hotend? (with heatbreak etc.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My printer is a Creality CR 10, and I'm using Ultimaker Cura 3.6.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or is it enough to buy a new heating block + heat break? (I don't know if the cooling fan is the problem or the heat break).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user12769" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-02-07T22:34:56.847" LastActivityDate="2022-06-30T12:05:46.550" Title="Clogging due to heat creep: buy new cooler or new hotend?" Tags="|hotend|heat-management|creality-cr-10|bowden|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8194" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8200" CreationDate="2019-02-07T20:08:58.047" Score="7" ViewCount="7747" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've tried printing the Basic Stringing Test on my CR-10S using PETG (250 °C nozzle, 80 °C bed) with different retraction distances leaving all the rest unchanged.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the image below you can see 0 mm, 5 mm and 10 mm retractions (in order left-to-right).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YgAqr.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Basic Stringing Test on CR-10S with 0 mm, 5 mm and 10 mm retractions&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YgAqr.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Basic Stringing Test on CR-10S with 0 mm, 5 mm and 10 mm retractions&quot; title=&quot;Basic Stringing Test on CR-10S with 0 mm, 5 mm and 10 mm retractions&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The result stunned me because I would have imagined that raising retraction distance would have diminished the stringing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why is that?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14228" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2021-09-27T15:57:11.003" LastActivityDate="2021-09-27T16:14:01.510" Title="Question about retraction distance and stringing/print quality with PETG" Tags="|creality-cr-10|retraction|petg|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8195" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8129" CreationDate="2019-02-07T20:41:57.160" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;As Oscar &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/8173/8884&quot;&gt;pointed out&lt;/a&gt;, this seems to be heat-creep.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;What is Heat Creep&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hear Creep happens if the thermal energy deposited in the hotend works up through the heat break and out of the dedicated melt zone, resulting in filament clogging up in the coolend.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Where does Heat Creep come from&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Heat Creep is usually a sign of having chosen the settings for the print incorrectly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The biggest culprit is by having a too high printing temperature. I personally have not yet encountered any PLA that demands to be printed at above 200 °C.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In an all-metal hotend, the flow of filament down the path is a serious contributor or keeping heat-creep in check. So as a result, very low extrusion speeds have to be avoided to allow to keep the melting happening only in the meltzone. As the speed of extruded filament is related to the diameter of the extrusion, it is usually better to stay away from very small nozzle diameters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The anatomy of the heatbreak is also a factor. Take a look at your heatbreak and then at for example the e3D v6 heatbreak below. As you see, it is necked down between the coolend section (the long part) and the part that screws into the heater block (the short part). This reduces the capability of heat to transfer up through the heatbreak, as &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$I\propto A =(R_a^2-R_i^2)\times\pi$&lt;/span&gt;. If &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$R_a$&lt;/span&gt;, the outer radius, shrinks by necking down the heatbreak, then the whole flow of thermal energy is reduced, counteracting heat-creep. But that has to be designed for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5DKmC.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5DKmC.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;an e3D v6 style heatbreak&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another factor that can result in heat creep is insufficient cooling of the cool end. Make sure that the fan that is mounted on the cooling fins spins always and gets 100% of its supply voltage power. Then make sure that it can draw in the maximum amount of air and push it out an unobstructed path.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:29:41.667" LastActivityDate="2019-02-07T23:18:41.957" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8198" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8193" CreationDate="2019-02-07T22:59:55.167" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;To fight heat creep, you must understand why this is happening.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Heat creeps up the hotend assembly (into the cold end) as a result of incorrect settings or hardware setup causing the filament to prematurely soften and swell.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is important to reduce the heat travelling upwards in the first place rather than fighting the result. Too high print temperatures are an obvious culprit, but also print speed and retraction length are important. These need to be dialed in in perfect harmony.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even when you buy a complete new hotend or parts for the hotend, incorrect settings may lead to the same results. It is known that all-metal hotends (due to the lacking of a thermal barrier PTFE liner in the heat break shielding the filament of excessive heat input) are more susceptible to encounter heat creep and should generally be avoided by less experienced makers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whether or not you should buy new parts depends on the current extruder, your ability to fix it (and the willingness to put in more effort to try) and the knowledge to install new parts and find the correct settings for optimal printing. There is no unambiguous answer to this question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2022-06-30T12:05:46.550" LastActivityDate="2022-06-30T12:05:46.550" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8199" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8191" CreationDate="2019-02-07T23:44:23.003" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It seems like I blew the regulator based on the comment in the Reddit post: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.reddit.com/r/ender3/comments/ao5m5b/ender_3_can_only_be_powered_on_by_psu_and_usb/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.reddit.com/r/ender3/comments/ao5m5b/ender_3_can_only_be_powered_on_by_psu_and_usb/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14466" LastActivityDate="2019-02-07T23:44:23.003" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8200" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8194" CreationDate="2019-02-08T09:04:00.277" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;You cannot endlessly increase the retraction distance, doing so leads to different problems as you encountered. As a rule of thumb, the retraction distance should not exceed the length of your nozzle. Depending on the type of extruder, many printers use a value between 2 and 7 mm (e.g. the Ultimaker Cura retraction length is 6.5 mm at 25 mm/s, this is for a Bowden style extruder).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In fighting stringing (in which PETG is very subjected to happening) retraction length is only one of the parameters that you need to adjust to optimize the printing process. Other important parameters (besides retraction length) for stringing are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;retraction speed&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;travel speed&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;minimum travel distance&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;flow modifier&lt;br&gt;&lt;em&gt;-&amp;gt; From experience with printing kilometers of 2.85 mm PETG: if PETG is over-extruded by little, it causes the excess of material to form &amp;quot;curtains&amp;quot; like in the left image.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;combing&lt;br&gt;&lt;em&gt;-&amp;gt; added by comments: PETG does not like to be &amp;quot;combed&amp;quot; over; moving back over the already printed material without retracting will &amp;quot;pull&amp;quot; it back up (due to adhesion to the molten material in the orifice) as well as pulling more material out of the nozzle; this results in junk all over the place which can manifest as &amp;quot;stringing&amp;quot; even though it's different from what &amp;quot;stringing&amp;quot; usually is.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Furthermore, the type of extruder (direct or Bowden) is also important and other parameters that may reduce the stringing are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;coasting (stop extruding before the end of the print line is reached using the residual pressure in the nozzle to extrude the last filament)&lt;br&gt; &lt;em&gt;-&amp;gt; Please note that coasting is a last resort as the amount of material needed for the whole print is not what is being extruded, i.e. stopping earlier means that the overall amount of material is less than what should be put in...&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;pre-loading/priming filament after a move&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Usually it suffices to tune the first parameters. As you see in your results, the retraction of 5 mm is close to the result you would expect, increasing it, may lead to clogs and in your case leads to a sort of stringing. This latter result is probably due to the fact that the filament does not reach the print in time (you definitely see under-extruded cylinder columns), while leftover pressure after printing the column layer oozes some of the filament creating strings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just play with the retraction length in steps of 0.25 mm (around the 5 mm) and you may try to change the speed with 5 mm/s increments if necessary. Also experiment with the flow modifier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-09-27T16:14:01.510" LastActivityDate="2021-09-27T16:14:01.510" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8201" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7914" CreationDate="2019-02-08T10:57:17.017" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Surface finish does not really map to the substrate material, Visually, what you have shown could be glass, ceramic, plastic, epoxy or metal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The surface finish is a combination of the shaping process, any post processing, and any surface finishing. Most significantly, there are a wide variety of custom paints which are designed to mimic specific surface finishes. This means you could carve an object out of clay, then spray it to give the appearance of being sand-blasted steel (to give a specific example).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The underlying material is mostly irrelevant to the appearance. It will be driven by mechanical/thermal considerations (is this a mock-up, or does it need to have functional wall-thickness), and production volume/cost considerations (is it a one off, or are you making hundreds/millions)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4927" LastActivityDate="2019-02-08T10:57:17.017" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8202" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8193" CreationDate="2019-02-08T11:44:19.427" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I resorted to google to find a candidate image which might be similar to your hotend.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/V7Dke.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/V7Dke.png&quot; alt=&quot;Random hotend&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, it is safe to assume that a like-for-like replacement will not improve matters significantly. It is also a good assumption that the performance gap which you need to close is small. Presumably you know how much time you need to wait for the creep to manifest itself so are part way along to being able to perform some heat flow calculations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The mass of the cold-end here is small, and there is maybe next to no additional metal on the cold side (compared with direct drive, where the servo acts as thermal damping).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You ought to be able to perform static testing - a thermocouple thermometer should be cheaper than running a spool of filament, and all you are interested in is the temperature rise at the hot side of the cold end after 'time to fail'. If you can achieve a halfing of this rise, you're on the way to achieving a 4x longer print run (or better). If you test with zero filament flow, you should see a worst-case result since there is no cold material flow into the cold end.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The one obvious improvement to make with the specimen above which I found on Amazon would be to duct the fan, so airflow is forced past the fins. A side benefit will be reduced cooling of the hotend.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A further improvement, if there are any metal parts in the carriage, would be to remove the anodizing and use thermal transfer grease to increase the effective heatsink size (assuming that the fan also provides airflow over this metalwork.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might find a larger cold end heatsink (more air surface area over the fins), that might be a worthwhile improvement - but it depends on the mechanical constraints of your printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4927" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:29:41.667" LastActivityDate="2019-02-08T11:44:19.427" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8204" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10150" CreationDate="2019-02-08T21:15:36.847" Score="3" ViewCount="1442" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Rostock Max V2, and I've added a second extruder going into a y-splitter into a single nozzle on my printer. I have both extruders working correctly, but I'm having trouble tuning the retraction settings to prevent stringing when I switch between extruders during a print.  My system is essentially identical to the setup seen &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A_a9GofByKY&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.  However, I can't get my printer to retract as cleanly as the one in the video&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I'm trying to avoid is the long, thin &quot;tail&quot; that forms when retracting the filament from the hot end. That &quot;tail&quot; binds the other filament during the switch and makes the extruder grind a hollow spot on the filament.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've had limited success tuning my retraction settings, but I find that I need different settings for different extrusion speeds. For example, after an extrusion like &lt;code&gt;G1 E20 F240&lt;/code&gt; a 3mm retraction, 3mm extrusion, then a fast retraction creates a nice, clean break (this routine is recommended &lt;a href=&quot;http://forum.seemecnc.com/viewtopic.php?f=41&amp;amp;t=11693&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; by kraeger on the SeeMeCNC forums). However, after an extrusion like &lt;code&gt;G1 E20 F900&lt;/code&gt; I have to use longer  retractions to get a clean break.  I think this might have to do with the filament acting like a spring inside the bowden tube. It would make sense to me that the harder you push the filament, the more you need to pull back to compensate for the pent-up spring force.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's my question:  Is there a way to read the value of the extrusion speed, essentially the &quot;F&quot; term from the gcode commands, and change my retraction routine accordingly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Example pseudocode:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;If F value &amp;lt; 500 Then do short retraction&#xA;If F value &amp;gt; 500 AND F value &amp;lt; 1000 Then do medium retraction&#xA;If F value &amp;gt; 1000 Then do long retraction&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm using the tool change script feature in Simplify3D to store the tool change code.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14482" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-02-08T23:54:03.183" LastActivityDate="2019-07-02T04:03:45.353" Title="Use Gcode Extrusion Speed in Calculations" Tags="|extrusion|simplify3d|multi-material|retraction|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8205" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8193" CreationDate="2019-02-09T00:48:21.883" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cooling the hot-end heat sink may be the key.  My first step would be to try ducting so the all the air from the fan flows through the fins of the heatsink.  To keep it easy and be a quick experiment, use cardboard (or business cards) and tape.  Check the controls to be sure the fan is running at full power.  You should feel air passing theough the fins.  You can not cool it too much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For cleaning out pla from tubes, nozzles, and hot ends, I use a hot-air heat gun.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2082" LastActivityDate="2019-02-09T00:48:21.883" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8206" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10211" CreationDate="2019-02-09T02:29:53.833" Score="3" ViewCount="1461" Body="&lt;p&gt;Using CuraEngine with my Ender 3, I'm getting what I'd call inconsistent inner and outer dimensions - for example, a nominally 3&amp;nbsp;mm peg is significantly larger than a 3&amp;nbsp;mm hole, and it takes dimensions something like 2.9&amp;nbsp;mm for the peg and 3.1&amp;nbsp;mm for the hole to get them to fit. Is this level of error normal? Is it caused by overextrusion, or does CuraEngine run its paths along the curve of the slice rather than offset by approximately half the nozzle width inside the sliced region? The magnitude of the error being almost exactly 0.2&amp;nbsp;mm, which is half of the 0.4&amp;nbsp;mm nozzle diameter, makes me wonder if it's the latter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-02-09T09:46:44.633" LastActivityDate="2019-06-08T20:10:40.563" Title="Inconsistent inner/outer dimensions" Tags="|print-quality|ultimaker-cura|slicing|creality-ender-3|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8207" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5649" CreationDate="2019-02-09T07:22:16.773" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If your printer is a cheap one that uses a ribbon cable or other combined cables, verify your thermal sensor's polarity. I know, I know - it's a resistor (in most cases) and that means there's no such thing as polarity. Bear with me - I just helped a friend diagnose his printer (Geeetech, for the record) for showing 500C on one sensor and 'def' on the other, after replacing the mainboard with a different/more capable model. Turns out, they SHARE PINS, which suddenly makes polarity important. Swap the pins in the connector, and it might just work. First time I've run into this. We swapped only the Ext0 sensor and left the bed disconnected - Ext0 read normal, so we swapped both, and everything's been perfect since.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14484" LastEditorDisplayName="user144" LastEditDate="2019-02-11T15:06:33.103" LastActivityDate="2019-02-11T15:06:33.103" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8208" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8206" CreationDate="2019-02-09T08:20:41.960" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Filament expands slightly as it is extruded. Also, the width of the extrusion depends on the volume of plastic extruded (not the nozzle size), as well as the amount that it is &quot;squidged&quot; down. Some slicers (e.g. Simplify3D) allow you to specify the width of the extrusion that you desire, but I'm not sure if Cura does this. You can fine tune the width of extrusions by adjusting the flow rate. Note that apertures get larger as nozzles wear out, but this should not affect the width of the extrusion very much since the determining factor is volumetric flow rate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would say that if you are getting a dimensional accuracy of +/- 0.1mm, you are doing pretty well. If you want to improve on this, you will need to calibrate your extruder and also monitor closely the average diameter of the filament that you are using. I have included a link to an external article, since doing this is beyond the scope of my answer. However, I doubt if it is possible to get push-fit accuracy with FDM printing without fudging the dimensions of the objects that you want to print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.3dhubs.com/talk/t/howto-calibrate-tune-and-fine-tune-your-printer-and-filament/5695&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;3D Hubs: How to calibrate, tune and fine tune your printer and filament&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3953" LastEditorUserId="3953" LastEditDate="2019-02-09T08:25:45.100" LastActivityDate="2019-02-09T08:25:45.100" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8209" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-02-09T08:43:17.703" Score="1" ViewCount="45" Body="&lt;p&gt;3D printing is often an iterative process and I frequently find myself wanting to re-slice an STL I've already printed, but with just one setting tweaked. The problem is, unless I have left Slic3r open with the STL still loaded, I struggle to remember the exact combination of Print Settings, Filament Settings &amp;amp; Printer Settings I used for a previous print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Am I missing something, or do I need to be meticulous in manually noting down every single setting? Feels like there should be a way for the computer to handle this for me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7405" LastActivityDate="2019-02-09T08:43:17.703" Title="Reproducing entire slicing configurations in Slic3r" Tags="|slicing|slic3r|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8210" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8211" CreationDate="2019-02-09T14:23:58.727" Score="5" ViewCount="18372" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been trying to find a 3D printer filament which would not release any chemicals if in contact with heated water for a substantial amount of time. So far, I've easily ruled out both PLA and ABS, as they're not considered food safe from what I can find. I have found PETG filament, which seems to be food safe. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is: &quot;Is there's anything special you'd have to do to make sure the print is food safe, or as in my case, to make sure it's safe for usage in a mug?&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I will be using a steel extruder as brass ones may contain lead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14487" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2019-02-09T20:24:27.650" LastActivityDate="2019-03-06T04:45:36.117" Title="Is PETG filament food safe?" Tags="|filament|safety|food|petg|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8211" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8210" CreationDate="2019-02-09T15:29:45.820" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Many manufactures list their filaments as being food safe, but I would not treat this as &quot;gospel truth&quot;. Apparently, the FDA considers PETG to be safe for food contact, but they are probably thinking about injection-moulded and vacuum-formed parts. Unfortunately, an initial search of the FDA's website did not yield any definitive information.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even if a particular filament is genuinely food safe, that does not mean that a 3D-printed part made from it will be food safe, since there will be an abundance of nooks and crannies where bacteria can lodge and reproduce. You would have to sterilise a utensil before and after every use to be absolutely safe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway, good luck with making a water-tight mug with an FDM printer. You will probably have to seal it to make it water-tight, and then it will be the food-safety of the sealant that you will need to worry about. I would give it a miss, if I were you (at least, for other people's use). Items intended for one-time use would be OK, I suppose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3953" LastEditorUserId="3953" LastEditDate="2019-02-10T12:30:00.917" LastActivityDate="2019-02-10T12:30:00.917" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8212" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-02-09T22:42:08.893" Score="1" ViewCount="521" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm currently working on a project to convert an old 3D printer to a 2D powder dispenser. I'm using a Ramps 1.4 + Arduino Mega, and I'm trying to modify the extruder code in Marlin. I've printed a check plate and attached it to a 28byj-48 stepper motor. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The idea is to trigger the 28byj-48 motor to move a few steps in one direction to open the check plate on a &quot;begin extrude&quot; command (allowing the powder to flow through via gravity) and to close the check plate on a &quot;stop extruding command&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I'm getting a little bit overwhelmed with the Marlin code, and would love any help making these changes or even figuring out which files I would need to look at to do this. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've already done the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sY1Y_BJ-fTQ&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;hack on the stepper&lt;/a&gt; to make it work with the Ramps board, but haven't touched any of the code yet. Right now vanilla Marlin is running fine with my hardware, and I'm able to move the x and y axes fine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;** If you're interested, this is the inspiration for the project: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gXceYzhCWcs&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gXceYzhCWcs&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14491" LastActivityDate="2019-02-09T22:42:08.893" Title="Modifying Marlin Extruder code to use 28byj-48 motor" Tags="|marlin|stepper|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8214" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8215" CreationDate="2019-02-10T14:41:57.790" Score="2" ViewCount="198" Body="&lt;p&gt;I currently have my printrbot with a LJ12A3-4-Z/BX-5V Inductive Proximity Sensor ( 61mm M12 DC 5V NPN NO 300mA)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That detects my aluminium bed at around 1.2&amp;nbsp;mm distance. While it works, if the printer does the smallest blob the probe crashes into it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am considering replacing the probe by the M18 version LJ18A3-8-Z/BX-5V (&#xA;M18 8mm DC 5V NPN NO 300mA). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I haven't been able to find real specs for these probes (apart from what the sellers put in eBay or AliExpress - which I do not trust). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Will I get a larger detection distance with the M18 version of the 5&amp;nbsp;V probe?&lt;/strong&gt; (I wonder if the M18 version is exactly the same M12 version with a larger casing).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or should I move to the 6-36&amp;nbsp;V versions of the probes - I do not want to do that to not modify my wiring. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14498" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-02-10T16:28:25.927" LastActivityDate="2019-02-10T16:28:25.927" Title="M12 vs M18 V5 inductive probe" Tags="|z-probe|inductive-sensor|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8215" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8214" CreationDate="2019-02-10T14:50:43.763" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The larger the diameter and the higher the voltage the larger the detection distance. You do not need to do much wire modification if you use an optocoupler, see &lt;a href=&quot;/a/6359/&quot;&gt;this anwer&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2019-02-10T14:50:43.763" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8216" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8217" CreationDate="2019-02-10T15:26:53.770" Score="4" ViewCount="1415" Body="&lt;p&gt;So yesterday I got my power supply in the mail and I thought, let's check it out!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I put all the wires in correctly (as shown in this YouTube video, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X8GhVKG2Nno&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Anet A8 power supply unit fuse blown&lt;/a&gt;, I just searched really quickly, this person has the same problem as me) and &amp;quot;BANG&amp;quot;, it blew.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kBCjk.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Image from YouTube video&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kBCjk.png&quot; alt=&quot;Image from YouTube video&quot; title=&quot;Image from YouTube video&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Luckily the only thing broken on it is the fuse, for which I can get a new one, but my main question is .. why? why did it blow out? Did I wire it up wrong? The 12 V output goes to a RAMPS 1.4 board which is working correctly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It worked the first time I plugged it in; the little green light went on. The second time a nice &amp;quot;big bang&amp;quot;. When I tested it the first time, I didn't add the 12 V wires to the RAMPS board yet. When I did, the fuse of the PSU blew out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The board is a RepRap RAMPS 1.4, which works fine when connected via USB to laptop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Upon closer inspection I found a burned out resistor in the circuit of the power supply, maybe this caused the bang?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;BIG update!&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I opened it up and flipped the board, and noticed that there was a big ol' blob of tin connected to one of the pins I connected my wires to. I am very sure that this blob shouldn't connect to that pin at all, hence shorting my board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this the cause?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lGGSF.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Close up of PCB&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lGGSF.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Close up of PCB&quot; title=&quot;Close up of PCB&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lKdWI.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Close up of PCB - Highlighted potential short circuit&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lKdWI.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Close up of PCB - Highlighted potential short circuit&quot; title=&quot;Close up of PCB - Highlighted potential short circuit&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a link to the webpage I bought it from: &lt;a href=&quot;https://m.banggood.com/nl/12V-20A-240W-Anet-Power-Supply-Dual-input-Centralized-Power-Monitoring-For-3D-Printer-p-1108988.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Anet® 12 V 20 A 240 W Power Supply Dual-input Centralized Power Monitoring For 3D Printer&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is how I wired it up at the PSU side:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yHZxm.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Power supply connections&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yHZxm.png&quot; alt=&quot;Power supply connections&quot; title=&quot;Power supply connections&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the RAMPS side:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Od4en.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;RAMPS board connections&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Od4en.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;RAMPS board connections&quot; title=&quot;RAMPS board connections&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This shows the internals of the PSU, it clearly shows burn marks:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EuSfm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Overview of the failed electronic component in the PSU&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EuSfm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Overview of the failed electronic component in the PSU&quot; title=&quot;Overview of the failed electronic component in the PSU&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14500" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:29:41.667" LastActivityDate="2019-04-16T01:38:49.913" Title="Why did my power supply fuse blew out on my Anet A8?" Tags="|ramps-1.4|anet-a8|power-supply|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8217" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8216" CreationDate="2019-02-10T15:44:46.337" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You need to closely look at how to connect to the output connectors. In this case it appears that you have wired it correctly according to the stamped in markings above the connectors. You have chosen not to connect the earth, this is strongly advised.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Did you check if the power switch matches the voltage of your country? If you are in Europe the switch should be set to 230&amp;nbsp;V, not 115&amp;nbsp;V (which is used in America).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;E.g. for the following power supply you see such a switch on the side:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cIUcA.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cIUcA.png&quot; alt=&quot;PSU voltage setting&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If a PSU is connected without load and works, and short circuits when externals are connected there are a few options:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;there is a short in the connected printer board,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the load that the board takes is too large for the PSU,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the PSU cannot deliver the load,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the PSU was faulty to begin with.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-02-11T08:33:26.023" LastActivityDate="2019-02-11T08:33:26.023" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8218" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8221" CreationDate="2019-02-10T20:28:50.273" Score="5" ViewCount="67" Body="&lt;p&gt;I printed a temperature calibration cuboid for Hatchbox 1.75&amp;nbsp;mm PLA, in 1&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C increments from 180&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C to 190&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have two questions related to this image:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AnHOt.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AnHOt.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Temperature calibration print&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I'm not seeing any difference in quality across the temperature range. Am I just way off base and need to be substantially higher?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How do I get rid of the small layer shifts you can see across the board?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Printed on a RepRapGuru Prusa MK2 clone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14300" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-02-10T22:38:53.313" LastActivityDate="2019-02-11T14:56:16.990" Title="What calibration options should I look into given these defects" Tags="|calibration|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8219" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-02-10T20:47:00.337" Score="3" ViewCount="687" Body="&lt;p&gt;As part of a larger project, i'm trying to print a translucent green dome.  I set it up as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In Blender, create an icosphere of the maximum allowed complexity. Cut it in half and throw away one of the hemispheres.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Duplicate the hemisphere. Move the second one down slightly and use Subtract, to hollow it out.  Clean up the vertex garbage left behind.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Export the model.  Import it in the slicer, scale to the proper size, and export as gcode.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Print the model with &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B00ZB48IZE&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;translucent green filament&lt;/a&gt; at 100% solid infill.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I ended up with a beautifully rounded dome that doesn't feel at all like a polyhedron, so that worked out fine.  The only problem is, it's solid green.  The filament seems to lose its translucency past a certain thickness, and the fact that my &quot;solid&quot; print is actually made up of thousands of tiny strings pressed up against each other probably doesn't help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried reprinting it in Spiral Vase mode, and while the print turned out to be transparent, it was also extremely thin and fragile, and it failed anyway because of lack of support once the dome's angle got bad enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've been trying to think of how to print this properly, but nothing I think of will work:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Scaling can make the walls thinner, but only by reducing the size of the model.  Its basic dimensions need to remain unchanged.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Doing the same trick again that I used to create the dome, subtracting a copy of itself moved down slightly, would lead to non-uniform thickness in the model.  (Which I already have some of.  But when the thickness is directly correlated to the degree of transparency, this is problematic.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know of any tricks I can use to get it to come out properly?  For reference, I'm using Blender as my 3D software, IdeaMaker as my slicer, and printing on a Raise3D N2 Plus printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10981" LastActivityDate="2020-07-13T11:41:22.800" Title="Is there any better way to make this transparent dome?" Tags="|print-quality|software|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8220" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8219" CreationDate="2019-02-10T21:06:17.153" Score="3" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The filament seems to lose its translucency past a certain thickness&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's exactly the point. Think of translucency as a percentage of light being allowed through, per amount of material. 2x the material means 1/2 the light. You need either less material (which becomes brittle as you saw), or a more translucent material. I think it has little to do with the model itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also - check out OnShape. One of the features it has is a &quot;shell&quot; function, that does what you're describing - takes a single 3D feature and creates a shell out of it of consistent thickness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14300" LastEditorUserId="14300" LastEditDate="2019-02-10T21:16:04.500" LastActivityDate="2019-02-10T21:16:04.500" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8221" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8218" CreationDate="2019-02-10T22:53:27.007" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your print does &lt;strong&gt;not&lt;/strong&gt; suffer from layer shifts as you call them. This uneven layer deposition is typically caused by the (positioning) accuracy of your printer. All-in-all, this print does not look so bad. You would get better quality prints on a different style of a printer; most high-end printers have a lowering platform instead  of a forth and back moving platform.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although 180&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C is at the low side of printing PLA (usually it starts at about 185&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C), the print does look okay. However, looks can deceive, it does not say anything about structural integrity (layer bonding).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note, to calibrate the temperature using a temperature tower, you need a different calibration test print, preferably one that tests overhang. This latter is usually far more important as there is normally not much to see at the walls, you need a slanting part in the print or an overhang to determine the optimal temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-02-11T14:56:16.990" LastActivityDate="2019-02-11T14:56:16.990" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8222" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8224" CreationDate="2019-02-11T12:07:57.223" Score="3" ViewCount="4058" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have just built my first 3D printer, and I am having some problems. It is a Cartesian based 3D printer, using Marlin firmware and Pronterface software. My problem is homing the 3D printer. I do not have a probe to calibrate the z offset but I have all 6 endstops. The problem is that the &quot;ZMIN&quot; endstop isn't precise enough and my hotend is always either too far from or too close to the heatbed. Is there a way to manually set the home position, so when I start the printer, It just starts printing and it doesn't have to home again; Or maybe some other way to set the correct offset. It would also be helpful if I could use just the &quot;ZMAX&quot; plug, and then manually set the minimum Z position using a piece of paper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14504" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2019-02-12T21:50:28.247" LastActivityDate="2019-02-12T21:50:28.247" Title="Homing the 3D printer" Tags="|marlin|diy-3d-printer|z-axis|homing|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8223" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8219" CreationDate="2019-02-11T12:27:59.867" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;For the modeling, I suggest to change to a proper CAD software, design a half sidecut and create the model by rotating it around Z. That way you'd create an evenly thick part.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for loosing transparency, that has several reasons:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;light loss into printed materials is mainly due to air being captured in the model. To get the air out as much as possible and generate an almost entirely transparent print, I have printed some lens-tests with extra heat and deliberately overextruding to fill all the cavities and voids.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;light loss in materials is also dependant on the material factor and thickness.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you go away from FDM and look into resin-based SLA/DLP systems, you can get almost fully transparent prints with very low colored resins.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2020-07-13T11:41:22.800" LastActivityDate="2020-07-13T11:41:22.800" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8224" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8222" CreationDate="2019-02-11T12:30:30.447" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is possible to &quot;home a printer&quot; without having endstops, technically, you don't &lt;strong&gt;require&lt;/strong&gt; endstops, but it makes your job a lot easier if you want to print something!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically, when you don't have endstops or limit switches, you need to define where the head of the printer is located. E.g. you can set the nozzle at [0, 0, 0] (origin in [x, y, z]) and add the command &lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#G92:_Set_Position&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;code&gt;G92&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/a&gt; to your print G-code file that it is at that position using &lt;code&gt;G92 X0 Y0 Z0&lt;/code&gt; (or any other location you use, e.g. you could engineer a parking position and refer to that position instead, note that you also need to write the movement commands to get out of that location safely). Don't forget to remove the homing command from your start code in your slicer, replace &lt;code&gt;G28&lt;/code&gt; with the &lt;code&gt;G92&lt;/code&gt; command with appropriate X, Y and Z values.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regarding the inaccurate repetitive accuracy of your Z min endstop, it might be worth to find out why this is causing such a spread in triggering, maybe you need to invest in some new endstop switches or look more closely to the heated bed attachment to the frame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using Z max as a reference point is e.g. used by Ultimaker machines. The heated platform lowers to Z max; the printer knows from calibration and geometry how far it needs to rise to get to Z=0.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-02-11T15:00:47.217" LastActivityDate="2019-02-11T15:00:47.217" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8225" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8216" CreationDate="2019-02-11T16:08:56.373" Score="2" Body="&lt;h3&gt;Unless you know what you're doing, do not remove the covers from a PSU. The components can store a lethal charge long after power is removed, even if the fuse is blown.&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My guess is something loose (now vapourised) in the PSU. Electronics have a tendancy of failing either quite soon after manufacture, or lasting reasonably well. This is described with the &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bathtub_curve&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Bathtub Curve&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looking at the failure, there was a significant short circuit somewhere - quite likely within the PSU itself. This doesn't mean you can be sure that the RAMPS board survived, but it has a reasonable chance of not being harmed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is no significant chance of the PSU failing like that simply due to an excessive load in its output - unless it was overloaded for a significant period of time. Generally these PSUs will have some degree of overload protection even if they are not explicitly designed to survive an overload.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4927" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:29:41.667" LastActivityDate="2019-02-12T09:34:20.047" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8226" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-02-11T17:31:25.813" Score="1" ViewCount="164" Body="&lt;p&gt;When printing a G-code at a high speed/feedrate of 12,000&amp;nbsp;mm/min versus a slower speed we don't always notice a difference since the geometry does not always allow for the full speed to be reached due to the acceleration/deceleration taking most of the length of the segments. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is the above a correct statement and is there a way to find the sweet spot between length and fastest speed in relation to the jerk values?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12999" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-07-13T06:33:30.107" LastActivityDate="2019-07-13T06:33:30.107" Title="How to make sure we reach the total feedrate despite jerk" Tags="|g-code|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8227" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-02-11T20:45:07.587" Score="2" ViewCount="345" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to draw a strange cup, with a kind of empty handle (actually, it's not a cup, but it looks like one).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I need to print this object with a 3D printer, so I exported the model to 3D printing software (Simplify3D) to obtain relative G-code for the printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can correctly export (in .stl) both parts separately (cup [a] and handle [b]), and obtain a good G-code. But when I try to match the two parts with a boolean operation, the result becomes chaotic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've added a (G-code) picture to show how the slicer creates strange triangles inside the cup; I really can't understand how to prevent it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm designing the print using the Blender 3D software modelling tool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BUdsI.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BUdsI.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;on the left theG-code, on the right the Blender model. Note strange additions of triangles inside the &amp;quot;cup&amp;quot;&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've &lt;a href=&quot;https://ufile.io/0jr9n&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;uploaded my file&lt;/a&gt; for reference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The file has the bezier curves from witch I do screws in the origin. the result that I'm trying to export in stl is on the side.&#xA;Note: to have correct dimensions, I scale the model after 90° rotation on x-axis (base on bottom for printing), I then change the scale to 1:10 (bigger model), before exporting as stl.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would obtain a sort of vase with an empty handle (the cylinder should work as an hole).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;here what I do:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I convert curves to meshes&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I screw the cup (360° y-axis)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I screw the handle (60° after rotation -30° on y-axis)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I solidify the handle&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I add 2 operations to cup, (a) solidify, (b) boolean&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;to match the two solid I adjust the solidify (a) looking to boolean result of an intersection (cup to handle).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;when I have the right overlapping I apply (a) solidify and then (b) union-boolean (cup to handle).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;at the end I apply a difference-boolean modificator to cup/handle with cone, to create the hole.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope someone should explain me what I am doing wrong. I have made a somewhat simpler version &lt;a href=&quot;https://ufile.io/0jr9n&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14449" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2020-07-13T10:32:30.520" LastActivityDate="2020-07-13T10:32:30.520" Title="Boolean operation on two objects in Blender" Tags="|g-code|stl|blender|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8228" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8238" CreationDate="2019-02-11T21:01:57.003" Score="5" ViewCount="3529" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Prusa i3 MK3 displays the remaining printing time right from the beginning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Image: 3:38 remaining after 0% printing&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/O5Klt.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/O5Klt.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Prusa remaining time&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From about 8 prints until now, I would say that this time is quite reliable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Octoprint, however, does not display the remaining time initially and is then far off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Image: Octoprint saying something like &quot;too uncertain&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZibQZ.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZibQZ.png&quot; alt=&quot;Octoprint - no remaining time&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Image: Octoprint says 8.5 hours remaining&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vTXrT.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vTXrT.png&quot; alt=&quot;Octoprint - way too long time&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Why doesn't Octoprint just take the remaining time from the printer and display that? Or can I change a setting so that it does?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1570" LastActivityDate="2019-02-12T09:00:27.273" Title="Why can my printer display remaining time but OctoPrint can't?" Tags="|octoprint|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8229" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8233" CreationDate="2019-02-11T21:34:42.023" Score="6" ViewCount="9965" Body="&lt;p&gt;My i3 MK3 is printing very well for solid parts of an object, but it messes up with infill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dc5BL.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dc5BL.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Infill rough&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you can see in the image, the infill is broken into pieces and bends to that the surface becomes rough and the nozzle touches it next time it moves there, which probably does not make things better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've read the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.prusaprinters.org/7-problems-affecting-quality-of-3d-prints&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Prusa problem page&lt;/a&gt;, where they suggest three solutions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;change infill type&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;flexible filament (I'm using PETG, so this does not apply)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;lower printing speed&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm printing with 20% infill and I believe that this worked before at the same speed, so I'm tempted to say that both remaining options are options, but it should work without them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It also seems to me as if the infill is thinner that ordinary walls. Is the extrusion speed lower in case of infill? Is there a way of changing the extrusion speed for infill?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Side note: my printer always tells me to upgrade to the latest firmware 3.5.1. Since I have just received the printer back from a warranty repair after the last firmware upgrade, I don't want to upgrade the firmware. Could the issue be related to firmware?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Infos requested from comments:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm basically using the Slic3r default settings for PETG. The only thing I adjusted is the temperature, since I'm using HDGlass PETG and there was a recommended temperature written on the spool. Relevant settings seem to be&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Filament settings&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;fan speed min 30 % max 50 %&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;bridges fan speed 50 %&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;enable fan below 20 s&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;slow down below 20 s&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;min print speed 15 mm/s&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Speed settings&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Perimenters 45 mm/s&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Small perimeters 25 mm/s&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;External perimeters 35 mm/s&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Infill 200 mm/s&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Solid infill 200 mm/s &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Top solid infill 50 mm/s&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1570" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-02-12T08:32:00.860" LastActivityDate="2019-02-12T08:41:34.863" Title="Infill is rough - how to enhance?" Tags="|prusa-i3|infill|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8231" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-02-11T22:12:06.680" Score="2" ViewCount="1006" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've heard about switching out some connectors, but can't seem to figure out which ones and can't seem to find a diagram out there that is much help. Does anyone know which connectors I should switch to achieve this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14508" LastEditorUserId="11242" LastEditDate="2019-02-12T01:00:55.553" LastActivityDate="2019-02-12T01:00:55.553" Title="Connecting Anet 8 2004 display with Ramps 1.4 to Aux2 can't seem to figure it out" Tags="|ramps-1.4|anet-a8|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2019-02-25T13:24:57.397" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8232" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8231" CreationDate="2019-02-11T22:46:38.740" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;/a/6044&quot;&gt;This answer&lt;/a&gt; clearly describes that you need to switch pins 1 and 2. It also describes that the MKS board is similar to a RAMPS board. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First thing to look for is the layout of the AUX2 header:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FagU2.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FagU2.png&quot; alt=&quot;Aux2 header pin layout ramps&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The pin layout reveals that pin 1 is VCC and pin 2 is GND. These need to be switched to be able to connect the display on AUX2.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2019-02-11T22:46:38.740" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8233" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8229" CreationDate="2019-02-11T23:03:32.620" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;From your comments can be read that you print infill at 200&amp;nbsp;mm/s. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Know that 200&amp;nbsp;mm/s is ridiculously fast (like high travelling speed), close to the limits of printing on certain machines (&lt;a href=&quot;/a/8108&quot;&gt;for an AtMega&lt;/a&gt;)! It is hard for the filament to keep up at this speed. A value of 60&amp;nbsp;mm/s would be a good value to start experimenting. Your infill is not rough, it just failed printing. I have printed kilometers of PETG, normal print speeds for my PETG are recommended at 30-50&amp;nbsp;mm/s by my manufacturer; I get good results at 50-60&amp;nbsp;mm/s. On my Ultimaker 3, 70&amp;nbsp;mm/s is also feasible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Note that the filament you use seems to have rather &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.formfutura.com/shop/product/hdglass-clear-238&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;low printing temperatures&lt;/a&gt; (195-225&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C) as opposed to the PETG filament (co-polymer) I'm used to. The manufacturer does not specify advised print speeds (other than &quot;high&quot;, but what defines &quot;high&quot;?), but &lt;a href=&quot;https://mevade.wordpress.com/2015/08/22/1-75mm-hdglass/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this user posted&lt;/a&gt; some of his print settings for this material. The overall speed of 60&amp;nbsp;mm/s seems to support lower than 200&amp;nbsp;mm/s print speeds.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-02-12T08:41:34.863" LastActivityDate="2019-02-12T08:41:34.863" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8234" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8227" CreationDate="2019-02-12T01:00:01.493" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Check your settings in the slicer software you use: if you look at the sliced print carefully, you see only one line in each layer that crosses the inner section. The lines are also yellow, not green. This strongly hints that these are movement commands, not actual print commands.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other hand, you might want to carefully check in blender: at times, the normals in places get swapped inside out and then mess up the whole geometry without being visible in blender. &lt;code&gt;Recalculate Normals&lt;/code&gt; can fix that at times, other times choose the messed up vertices and &lt;code&gt;flip normals&lt;/code&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Make sure not to include voids in the model.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;The model in question&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looking at the model, I also spotted that there was a lingering solidify modifier. Applying that resulted in this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kl2ol.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kl2ol.png&quot; alt=&quot;Shell within shell&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a particularly bad thing. Fixing is easy though: remove the offending inner vertices. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hsf0F.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hsf0F.png&quot; alt=&quot;16 verts in one point?!&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Atop that, the center points are a clustered mess of vertices - surely you want to merge them into just two vertices.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Applying the Boolean modifier &lt;em&gt;now&lt;/em&gt; created a solid shell.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zeMTV.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zeMTV.png&quot; alt=&quot;solid shell&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Before exporting, all other items had to be removed (deleted), then the export gives this nice model:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0byhB.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0byhB.png&quot; alt=&quot;[Cura slice, no scaling&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2019-02-20T13:44:02.950" LastActivityDate="2019-02-20T13:44:02.950" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8235" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-02-12T03:11:14.980" Score="2" ViewCount="781" Body="&lt;p&gt;Alright so I bought a broken UP mini. There was only a defect on the board so I connected the components to a Duet 2 Wifi.&#xA;Everything is fully operational and I can manually move all axes correctly using the interface as well as homing them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem is that when I try to slice a model (I am using Slic3r) and upload the G-Code the bed will be raised instead of lowered during printing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do I change it so the direction of the Z-Axis goes correctly?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additional information:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The Z endstop is at the bottom&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;When homed the Z coordinate is on 0&amp;nbsp;mm &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;When placing the bed under the extruder the Z coordinate is 170&amp;nbsp;mm&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14509" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2019-02-13T00:26:18.167" LastActivityDate="2019-02-13T00:26:18.167" Title="Wrong Z-Axis movement in G-Code" Tags="|z-axis|slic3r|troubleshooting|reprap|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8237" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8229" CreationDate="2019-02-12T08:09:04.327" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have dealt with this on infill as well on multiple MK3s.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, it was not the speed itself, but the hot end having difficulty extruding enough to keep up with the infill.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some things to try:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Raise hot end temperature 5 degrees (melt filament faster)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lower infill speed, it will not affect your overall print time very much (surprisingly)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A combination of the two above.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14510" LastActivityDate="2019-02-12T08:09:04.327" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8238" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8228" CreationDate="2019-02-12T09:00:27.273" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Octoprint is a generic application that has to work with a rather wide variety of printers and printer firmwares. The time estimation that is shipped with Octoprint by default is a very basic method that doesn't rely on any specific printer features. This also makes it kind of useless in some cases, and not very accurate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The estimate that the Prusa i3 Mk3 shows is not actually done by the printer, it is embedded in the GCode generated by Slic3r PE. There are M73 commands added that tell the printer how far along the print job is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for why Octoprint doesn't do this by default, the major reason is likely that this method only works for specific printers and slicers, and only works well if the slicer can actually do good estimates for a particular printer. This is the case for the Prusa because it supports this feature and the slicer is maintained by them and has enough information to make good estimates. But this is not the case for all printers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The feature is also not entirely standardized as far as I understand, e.g. Prusa uses slightly different M73 commands to give estimates for normal and silent mode.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are plugins that can read the M73 estimates, you could try that. I never tried them myself, &lt;a href=&quot;https://plugins.octoprint.org/plugins/m73etaoverride/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;this plugin&lt;/a&gt; seems to do what you want from a quick glance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="167" LastActivityDate="2019-02-12T09:00:27.273" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8241" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-02-12T12:03:05.070" Score="5" ViewCount="3084" Body="&lt;p&gt;Fairly long winded, but hopefully makes sense;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I understand that G-code is executed line-by-line, and in the main printing phase each instruction is effectively go to location XY (assuming staying within the layer) at a set speed with a set extrusion amount (not rate, as far as I can tell).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Imagine you were printing a single road width, say 10&amp;nbsp;mm long. If the single instruction says to move that 10&amp;nbsp;mm at a set speed and extrude 10mm of material (which is, I guess, not 10mm of filament), with infinite acceleration and deceleration of the nozzle and extruder gears, then a linear amount of material would be extruded per unit length along the 10&amp;nbsp;mm. However, given that there is some acceleration and deceleration, that extrusion must be non-linear. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My questions are as follows;&#xA;- Is it possible to counteract this within a single line of Gcode by having a variable extrusion rate? &#xA;- Can the machine do so regardless of the instructions given to it? &#xA;- Is this effect embraced somehow? &#xA;- Does the need to accelerate both the nozzle position and filament effectively cancel out? &#xA;-Would/could you aim instead to split a single straight line of filament into multiple lines of G-code, some extruding (say in the middle), and some not (say at each end)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14514" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-02-12T13:26:48.573" LastActivityDate="2019-02-12T22:50:08.900" Title="Can a single line of Gcode have variable extrusion rate?" Tags="|g-code|extrusion|fdm|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8242" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14469" CreationDate="2019-02-12T13:52:20.063" Score="3" ViewCount="1882" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't understand what's wrong with my G-code. I have set the printing temperature to 195 °C but when I try to print, the target temperature is always 0 °C and printing never starts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hkB6E.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hkB6E.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have tried changing material preset to different PLA profiles but that didn't help at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;G-code:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;;FLAVOR:RepRap&#xA;;TIME:1736&#xA;;Filament used: 0.676205m&#xA;;Layer height: 0.1&#xA;;Generated with Cura_SteamEngine 3.4.1&#xA;T0&#xA;M190 S50&#xA;M104 S195&#xA;M109 S195&#xA;M82 ;absolute extrusion mode&#xA;G21 ;metric values&#xA;G90 ;absolute positioning&#xA;M82 ;set extruder to absolute mode&#xA;M107 ;start with the fan off&#xA;G28 X0 Y0 ;move X/Y to min endstops&#xA;G28 Z0 ;move Z to min endstops&#xA;G1 Z15.0 F9000 ;move the platform down 15mm&#xA;G92 E0 ;zero the extruded length&#xA;G1 F200 E3 ;extrude 3mm of feed stock&#xA;G92 E0 ;zero the extruded length again&#xA;G1 F9000&#xA;M117 Print0ng...&#xA;M83 ;relative extrusion mode&#xA;G1 F1500 E-6.5&#xA;;LAYER_COUNT:96&#xA;;LAYER:0&#xA;M107&#xA;G0 F600 X90.425 Y93.152 Z0.3&#xA;;TYPE:SKIRT&#xA;G1 F1500 E6.5&#xA;...&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition, the extruder and heat sensor are working. An older G-code file correctly sets 200 °C as the target temperature for the extruder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nQhqQ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nQhqQ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This G-code prints just fine&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;;FLAVOR:RepRap&#xA;;TIME:4628&#xA;;Filament used: 1.44191m&#xA;;Layer height: 0.15&#xA;;Generated with Cura_SteamEngine 3.4.1&#xA;T0&#xA;M190 S60&#xA;M104 S200&#xA;M109 S200&#xA;M82 ;absolute extrusion mode&#xA;G21 ;metric values&#xA;G90 ;absolute positioning&#xA;M82 ;set extruder to absolute mode&#xA;M107 ;start with the fan off&#xA;G28 X0 Y0 ;move X/Y to min endstops&#xA;G28 Z0 ;move Z to min endstops&#xA;G1 Z15.0 F9000 ;move the platform down 15mm&#xA;G92 E0 ;zero the extruded length&#xA;G1 F200 E3 ;extrude 3mm of feed stock&#xA;G92 E0 ;zero the extruded length again&#xA;G1 F9000&#xA;M117 Print0ng...&#xA;M83 ;relative extrusion mode&#xA;G1 F1500 E-6.5&#xA;;LAYER_COUNT:80&#xA;;LAYER:0&#xA;M107&#xA;G0 F4800 X72.96 Y99.484 Z0.3&#xA;;TYPE:SKIRT&#xA;---&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Note, I have never modified the firmware or changed anything except what I can change with the frontpanel.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5359" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-09-22T14:37:30.177" LastActivityDate="2020-09-22T14:37:30.177" Title="Anet A8 ignores extruder temperature?" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|g-code|troubleshooting|anet-a8|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8244" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8242" CreationDate="2019-02-12T15:47:16.210" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is nothing wrong with the G-code, &lt;code&gt;M109 S195&lt;/code&gt; sets and waits for the temperature to reach the set point. There must be a different reason, other than G-code, why the temperature is not set correctly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After updating your question by adding another G-code script, the conclusion is that there is nothing wrong with the G-code itself. The problem is that the printer cannot set the 195&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could it be that the minimum temperature is 200&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C and that it doesn't set a temperature lower than the minimum value?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are comfortable enough to flash a new firmware &lt;strong&gt;(which you should always do with an Anet A8 as it has no &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/8466/what-is-thermal-runaway-protection&quot;&gt;thermal runaway protection&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/strong&gt; you could try to see if this is a firmware problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2019-11-06T14:03:03.270" LastActivityDate="2019-11-06T14:03:03.270" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8246" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8241" CreationDate="2019-02-12T16:27:54.000" Score="0" Body="&lt;h1&gt;No&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;G-code is written line separated, starting with one command what to do, then who does it with what factors. For example &lt;code&gt;G1 X10 F100 E10&lt;/code&gt; says this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;code&gt;G1&lt;/code&gt; Move...&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;code&gt;X10&lt;/code&gt; The X axis by 10&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;code&gt;F100&lt;/code&gt; Use the factor to 100 units&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;code&gt;E10&lt;/code&gt; Also: the Extruder by 10&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To my knowledge any repeated or invalid expression is simply ignored (or overwritten). So &lt;code&gt;G1 X10 F100 E10 F200&lt;/code&gt; gets parsed as either  &lt;code&gt;G1 X10 F100 E10&lt;/code&gt; or  &lt;code&gt;G1 X10 E10 F200&lt;/code&gt;, depending on how your firmware interpreter is set up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:29:41.667" LastActivityDate="2019-02-12T22:50:08.900" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8248" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8241" CreationDate="2019-02-12T17:20:02.337" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;My understanding is that the printer firmware will define the maximum acceleration and speeds for each axis (X, Y, Z, and E). When executing a line of g-code that involves more than one axis, the acceleration for each will be limited such that they all begin and end, including acceleration together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;During the start and end of a line, when the print nozzle is moving more slowly, the extruder will also move slowly. In the middle of the line, the extruder will move faster. The amount of material extruded per distance will be constant over the length of the line.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another way to look at it - suppose you could accelerate quickly on X with a high top speed, but slowly on Y. A move only in the X direction could happen quickly. A move only in the Y direction would be slower. If you want to move at a 45-degree angle,  you will need to slow down X so that it doesn't get ahead of Y.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you did want to intentionally vary the amount of extrusion per distance during a line, you would need to break it into multiple segments with individual lines of g-code.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5704" LastActivityDate="2019-02-12T17:20:02.337" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8249" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8241" CreationDate="2019-02-12T17:45:30.573" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Let's see...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Is it possible to counteract this within a single line of Gcode by having a variable extrusion rate?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;No,&lt;/strong&gt; it cannot. G Code executes line by line. If you have a line : G1 X10 F100 F200 F300&#xA;some parseres will accept the first (F100), some will only accept the last (F300)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Can the machine do so regardless of the instructions given to it? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you program a &lt;strong&gt;custom&lt;/strong&gt; G code parser to do so, you still couldn't because there is no time scale to which you would want the effect to apply. To do this you would have to introduce a new letter to your parser (let's call it K), which you could use to instruct the machine to scale the extrusion accordingly (e.g. G1 X10 F100 K0.24). The machine would then know to scale the F parameter by 0.24 over the course of the movement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Is this effect embraced somehow? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Uhm... no?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Does the need to accelerate both the nozzle position and filament effectively cancel out? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cancel out how? The filament stepper as well as the gantry steppers are step synchronized so that they operate at the correct feedrate, at all times. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Would/could you aim instead to split a single straight line of&#xA;     filament into multiple lines of G-code, some extruding (say in the&#xA;     middle), and some not (say at each end)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Absolutely not.&lt;/strong&gt; Each line of gcode has to be completed by the machine before any other line can be considered. You can't have one motion governed by multiple lines of g-code, because there will be not way to control the timing of the execution of the lines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12857" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2019-02-12T18:01:56.523" LastActivityDate="2019-02-12T18:01:56.523" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8250" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8253" CreationDate="2019-02-12T17:57:02.127" Score="3" ViewCount="884" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've done a fair bit of looking around for an answer and have yet been unable to find one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So here is my problem, after about 200-300&amp;nbsp;mm of extrusion, the PLA stops coming through the nozzle. When I pull the PLA out it looks like &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/piSWO.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt;. There are teeth marks going up the PLA and end with a small divot. The head of the PLA is slightly thicker than the rest of the PLA; approximately 1.9&amp;nbsp;mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/li46S.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/li46S.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Filament shape after taken out of hotend&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I first noticed this when I thought that only the bottom layer was being printed. I moved to printing a small &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:56142&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;bullet&lt;/a&gt; and I got about halfway through the print before it stopped extruding. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next I raised the Z position to about 100&amp;nbsp;mm to give me some room to work and I manually moved the PLA through the extruder with the dial. No problems until I hit the 200&amp;nbsp;mm mark or so. I've done this test 4 times now and failed at the approximate locations: 208&amp;nbsp;mm, 280&amp;nbsp;mm, 250&amp;nbsp;mm, and 325&amp;nbsp;mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Settings:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Nozzle: 200&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bed: 60&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Layer Height: 0.15&amp;nbsp;mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other things I have tried with seemingly no effect:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Turning off/on print cooling&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;reducing retraction to 2&amp;nbsp;mm from 6&amp;nbsp;mm &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;yelling out in frustration&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;reformatting the SD card (because who knows?)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;brand new filament, older filament, middle aged filament&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14519" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-10-28T10:07:14.487" LastActivityDate="2019-10-28T10:07:14.487" Title="Monoprice Maker Select v2 stops extruding after about 200-300 mm" Tags="|extruder|troubleshooting|extrusion|monoprice-maker-select|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8251" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8241" CreationDate="2019-02-12T18:12:24.653" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;While Trish directly answers the G-Code part of your question, my answer offers an alternative if you use Marlin. RepRap has a similar feature called pressure advance, but this answer is focusing on Marlin's feature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to &lt;a href=&quot;http://marlinfw.org/docs/features/lin_advance.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Marlin&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Under default conditions, extruder axis movement is treated in the same way as the XYZ linear axes. The extruder motor moves in linear proportion to all the other motors, maintaining exactly the same acceleration profile and start/stop points. But an extruder is not a linear system, so this approach leads, most obviously, to extra material being extruded at the end of each linear movement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In short, corners result in being rounded instead of sharp due to the constant extrusion when laying down a line. One can mitigate this by changing the flow, though this might affect straight lines in other parts of the print, namely under extruding them. Marlin's answer to this is linear advance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With linear advance, the extrusion rate changes as the print head speed changes. When the print head moves faster, more plastic has to be pushed out to lay a consistent line and as soon as the head slows down, the extrusion rate slows down to compensate. The print should then have a consistent line. This is all done using a new factor called k. From &lt;a href=&quot;http://marlinfw.org/docs/features/lin_advance.html#special-notes-for-v1.5&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Marlin&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;K is now a meaningful value with the unit [mm of filament compression needed per 1mm/s extrusion speed] or [mm/mm/s].&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One can determine the k value for their printer using Marlin's &lt;a href=&quot;http://marlinfw.org/tools/lin_advance/k-factor.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;k calibration tool&lt;/a&gt; which prints out multiple straight lines and instructs the printer to print the start of each line slowly, then print fast, and end the line slow again. Each line has a different k value and the user chooses the k value from the line that is most consistent. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Some caveats&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bowden style extruders require larger k values which, even then, linear advancing may not work. This is due to the bowden tube itself and the material between the extruder motor and the hot end. This is along the same issue as trying to print flexible plastics with a bowden extruder. While linear advance is better suited for direct drives, it's not impossible to use it on a bowden.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Setting up linear advance requires an extra set of tuning. While this primarily means tuning the k value, print speeds may need adjusting (potentially allowing for faster speeds even).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Older linear advance version, at least on Marlin, had the extruder motor a lot more active. Some people report that printing is noticeably noisier. This feature might also add an extra load to the CPU. These issues should not be a problem anymore, as of v1.5, but YMMV.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One needs to change the firmware/G-Code so that each print can use linear advance. If the printer is only using one material the firmware can be changed. However, if multiple materials will be used within the printer's lifetime, the G-Code will have to include the following command at the end of the start script ( more found &lt;a href=&quot;http://marlinfw.org/docs/features/lin_advance.html#adding-the-k-factor-to-the-g-code-start-script&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;). This k value will be different for each material. An example of the command is as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;M900 K75 ; Set k-factor for PLA&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The link also recommends setting the k factor value to 0 when turning the feature on in the firmware. This essentially disables the hard-coded value in the firmware.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, slicer settings like pressure advance, Coast at end, extra restart length after retract should be disabled when using linear advance as they do a similar operation. On the flip side, these settings may work for your printer so you may not need to even use linear advance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13883" LastEditorUserId="13883" LastEditDate="2019-02-12T22:16:15.737" LastActivityDate="2019-02-12T22:16:15.737" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8252" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8254" CreationDate="2019-02-12T19:00:05.360" Score="8" ViewCount="1265" Body="&lt;p&gt;Kicked off the second long print in a series (printing Lack enclosure components). First 10 hour print was flawless. Started this one, saw the first layer laid down well, went to bed. Woke up to this (you can see the successful prints in the background):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HYYcU.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HYYcU.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The whole heater block and nozzle is entombed in PLA. The leads to the heater and the thermistor are too. I'm assuming there's no solvent for this, and I'm better off just buying a new hot end.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thoughts?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14300" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2019-02-12T20:07:03.833" LastActivityDate="2020-12-04T22:43:17.740" Title="Is this hot end salvageable?" Tags="|prusa-i3|hotend|troubleshooting|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8253" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8250" CreationDate="2019-02-12T19:46:37.677" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Looking at the tread pattern on the filament, I think it's getting stuck. Note that the teeth marks get closer together as you go up the fillament, and the last one is a big divot, that looks like the gear trying to grab at it, and being unable to move it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are you seeing any drops in nozzle temp? I had a cooling fan kick in and drop temps low enough to prevent extrusion before.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Edit&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the discussion in the notes, heat creep was identified as a possible culprit, and seems most likely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14300" LastEditorUserId="14300" LastEditDate="2019-02-12T20:41:56.070" LastActivityDate="2019-02-12T20:41:56.070" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8254" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8252" CreationDate="2019-02-12T20:15:38.953" Score="5" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Yes&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had a somewhat similar clog once, and I could fix it back up. However, it is a lot of work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Hobbyist Way&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Step 1: heat&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As long as the heater cartridge is still ok, just fire up the printer, move up the print head by 50 mm and wait some two or three minutes till the goop is warmed enough at the core to melt. Set the hot end to 200 °C and no cooling fan.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Step 2: rough clean&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check the cables for your hot end and thermistor as long as the plastic has not yet softened up around them and especially surrounding the thermistor: When the glob is removed in one swoop, you might tear the lines! It's better to use a sculpting tool or exacto-blade on the softening plastic and make an opening that allows the glob to be pulled away safely with minimal pull on the cabling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the blob has softened enough, you can just pull at the outer of the blob to pull it down. Use a tool like pliers and pull off the worst that still sticks to the hotend. Pulling the blob free can take a while, so be patient and careful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have a soldering iron, you can use that as a heated scraper from the outside and skip on heating from the inside. If you have no temperature control (as if your thermosensor is shot) outside heat is the only safe way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Step 3: Cool down&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After having made a rough clean up from the outside, let it cool down so you can dismantle it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Step 4: dismantle and clean the hotend.&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is actually rather simple, and I will point &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/7920/heatercartridge-bolt-stuck/7923#7923&quot;&gt;to a question where I outlined that for a broken thermistor cartridge&lt;/a&gt;. You have a working thermosensor at least, so less problems on that front.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Shortcut&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have a hot air gun for hot air soldering, you can be much faster! Skip step 1 to 3, dismantle the hotend and go straight to Step 4, dismantling it and cleaning it out of the machine with the hot air soldering tool as a heat source. Heat and scrape away, and get out the thermosensor and thermosensor as soon as possible to prevent destroying them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2020-12-04T22:43:17.740" LastActivityDate="2020-12-04T22:43:17.740" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8255" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8252" CreationDate="2019-02-12T20:15:55.703" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Careful application of a hot air gun, along with mechanical prodding (pliers, pokey sharp stick tool) will soften the PLA. It will soften on the outside but the heat transfers inward rather easily and quickly and is retained for some time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When heating and poking, force the mass downwards and then away from the heater block. If the outside becomes liquid, too much heat is being applied and may damage other components.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An SMT soldering station with adjustable temperature and airflow rates would be ideal, but a garden-variety hot air gun with a concentrating tip could be used effectively.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2019-04-16T08:26:41.713" LastActivityDate="2019-04-16T08:26:41.713" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8256" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9887" CreationDate="2019-02-12T20:17:22.147" Score="4" ViewCount="2420" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've bought &lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/wiki/MKS_12864OLED&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;MKS 12864OLED&lt;/a&gt; and connected to my DIY 3d printer with Mega/RAMPS combination. In Marlin's configuration.h file there are these lines to uncomment:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;// MKS OLED 1.3&quot; 128 × 64 FULL GRAPHICS CONTROLLER&#xA;// http://reprap.org/wiki/MKS_12864OLED&#xA;//&#xA;// Tiny, but very sharp OLED display&#xA;//&#xA;//#define MKS_12864OLED          // Uses the SH1106 controller (default)&#xA;//#define MKS_12864OLED_SSD1306  // Uses the SSD1306 controller&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure to choose between 'SH1106' or 'SSD1306'... either way, the LCD module is not working.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LRFIX.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LRFIX.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oBNjU.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oBNjU.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13700" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-02-12T22:49:16.170" LastActivityDate="2019-05-10T21:56:48.460" Title="MKS 12864OLED Display setup" Tags="|marlin|troubleshooting|reprap|full-graphic-smart-controller|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8257" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8222" CreationDate="2019-02-12T21:36:19.673" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can reconfigure marlin to use the MAXZ endstop instead of MINZ in Configuration.h, and then reflash it to your printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/blob/1.1.x/Marlin/Configuration.h#L877&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/blob/1.1.x/Marlin/Configuration.h#L877&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now this is highly unusual, as most printers only have MIN endstops. If you post a pic of your faulty MINZ endstop, we can probably figure out how you could fix it. Zipties come to mind as a likely solution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12950" LastActivityDate="2019-02-12T21:36:19.673" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8258" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8241" CreationDate="2019-02-12T22:02:08.277" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Not on one line, but...&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On Hyrel systems, you &lt;em&gt;can, manually&lt;/em&gt;, split one long move into several smaller moves, each with a different extrusion rate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, let's start at X100 Y100, and move to X100 Y200. On a Hyrel, this would look like this (with an inherited F rate if not specified):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;  G1 X100 Y200 E1&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We could change this by specifying our Feed Rate Multiplier:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;  M221 S0.9 ; set feed rate multiplier to 90%&#xA;  G1 X100 Y110 E1 ; print 10mm&#xA;  M221 S0.95 ; set feed rate multiplier to 95%&#xA;  G1 X100 Y120 E1 ; print 10mm&#xA;  M221 S1 ; set feed rate multiplier to 100%&#xA;  G1 X100 Y130 E1 ; print 10mm&#xA;  M221 S1.05 ; set feed rate multiplier to 105% &#xA;  ...&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We can also vary all of the parameters between moves, including print speed, acceleration, deceleration, cooling, and UV curing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And we do use &quot;linear advance&quot; as well, so extrusion ramps up with travel speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: I work for Hyrel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4922" LastEditorUserId="4922" LastEditDate="2019-02-12T22:37:52.553" LastActivityDate="2019-02-12T22:37:52.553" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8259" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8235" CreationDate="2019-02-12T22:03:22.413" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could put the z endstop at the top, and flip the motor connector to make it move the other direction. This should make it home to the top near the nozzle, and then move downward during the print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Otherwise, you'll have to tweak the firmware configuration and reflash.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12950" LastActivityDate="2019-02-12T22:03:22.413" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8262" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4259" CreationDate="2019-02-13T06:41:22.840" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just make a silicone mold of any of your prints and pour you wax in the silicone,you silicone putty is pretty cheap so is wax ,no need to break the bank as printers have become less expensive and can do a pretty good job &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14522" LastActivityDate="2019-02-13T06:41:22.840" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8263" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8359" CreationDate="2019-02-13T07:05:09.907" Score="2" ViewCount="5002" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fY6wJ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Failed first and second layer of print&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have only been able to get my prints this far. They just can’t stop skipping pulling material up towards the nozzle which then melts pulls of another random bit. At first I thought it was motor skipping, so I strengthened the spring, but even after that and calibrating the bed, I couldn’t figure out exactly how to fix this issue. Hopefully someone has some idea what is wrong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14524" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-02-13T13:50:31.600" LastActivityDate="2019-03-04T19:59:07.037" Title="Ender 3 print is skipping and dragging up base print lines" Tags="|creality-ender-3|print-failure|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8264" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-02-13T07:47:18.310" Score="1" ViewCount="256" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pVuji.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pVuji.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;I am a new OpenSCAD user. My screen editor window is using a very strange font that I cannot read. How can I fix it? I just installed OpenSCAD on my Linux Manjaro computer. &#xA;This is a screen shot of my screen for the first example in the examples folder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14525" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2019-02-13T11:44:01.103" LastActivityDate="2019-02-13T11:44:01.103" Title="OpenSCAD editor font is unreadable" Tags="|openscad|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2019-02-13T23:48:19.783" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8265" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-02-13T08:41:01.257" Score="3" ViewCount="713" Body="&lt;p&gt;I noticed that my x axis is slightly longer than my y axis (~0.6%) if I print an object. What parameter in Marlin can be tuned to correct such issues? The rod length parameter seems to rather influence the overall scaling of the object. The other parameters such as Txyz and Exyz influence the flatness according to the bed. I noticed, on the firmware of the Duet there is a gcode command for this particular issue, which I haven't found in Marlin yet. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10847" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2019-02-13T11:32:41.737" LastActivityDate="2019-05-04T07:33:34.723" Title="Delta Printer: After Calibration X and Y Axis are slightly different" Tags="|marlin|calibration|troubleshooting|delta|axis|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8266" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8267" CreationDate="2019-02-13T10:27:05.650" Score="8" ViewCount="2954" Body="&lt;p&gt;Octoprint warns me that the objects do not fit into the print volume. I noticed that this happens after a power-off cycle. Since I was overly anxious until today, I always uploaded the GCode file again and it didn't complain any more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, always uploading the files again is also error prone. So today I gave it a try and simply started to print the object. As far as I can tell, it prints nicely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Image: Octoprint saying something like &quot;Object does not fit into print volume&quot; in German&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5NiFh.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5NiFh.png&quot; alt=&quot;Object does not fit into print volume&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Is this a known bug in OctoPrint? Are my files really damaged after a power off cycle?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The values (0.00, -3.00, 0.00) seem to be constant in this error message, no matter what object I want to print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm using OctoPrint in the PrusaPrint flavor and I'm running version 1.3.10 (hopefully a recent version, since I usually update). I generate the G-Code with Slic3r.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1570" LastEditorUserId="10321" LastEditDate="2019-02-18T19:45:08.667" LastActivityDate="2019-02-18T22:11:53.780" Title="False &quot;Object does not fit into print volume&quot; warning from OctoPrint" Tags="|octoprint|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8267" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8266" CreationDate="2019-02-13T10:56:02.160" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;That's the purging that Slic3r PE adds, the broad line of filament at the edge of the sheet. That is outside the official print volume, which triggers this error.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The G-Code generated by Slic3r PE at the start of the file contains the following lines:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;G1 Y-3.0 F1000.0 ; go outside print area&#xA;G92 E0.0&#xA;G1 X60.0 E9.0  F1000.0 ; intro line&#xA;M73 Q0 S174&#xA;M73 P0 R173&#xA;G1 X100.0 E12.5  F1000.0 ; intro line&#xA;G92 E0.0&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can see that it explicitly goes to -3 on the Y axis, and then extrudes two times on a line along the X axis.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The model size detection is labeled as beta in the settings dialog. It's not very reliable at detecting stuff like this purging line outside the boundaries.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="167" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-02-13T13:45:40.340" LastActivityDate="2019-02-13T13:45:40.340" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8268" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-02-13T17:44:40.477" Score="3" ViewCount="1119" Body="&lt;p&gt;Flsun 3D Cube; Marlin 1.1.1; main board: Makerbase MKS Gen_L V1.0; running from either Repetier or OctoPrint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was recently obliged to replace the main board when it stopped powering the heated bed. I got the new main board - same make, version, etc - got everything setup just as it was before, but the bed still doesn't heat. Multimeter shows zero across the board's heat bed contacts, whether using G-code from the terminal (in both Repetier and Octoprint), G-code in the print file, or the control panel on the front of the printer. The thermistor works: if I shine a heat lamp on the bed, it registers the temp change.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bad board? Something in the Merlin config I missed? Is the board smart enough to not power it on if the bed heater itself is bad?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14530" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2019-02-13T21:10:04.170" LastActivityDate="2021-01-21T19:37:27.287" Title="Main board heated bed connectors aren't powering up" Tags="|electronics|flsun-3d-cube|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8269" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-02-13T18:38:41.757" Score="2" ViewCount="110" Body="&lt;p&gt;Flsun 3D Cube; main board, MKS GEN L V1.0&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think I need to replace the main board and I don't know enough about 3D printer components yet to judge whether a 1:1 replacement would be better than selecting a different board, or keep the same board but with upgraded stepper drivers?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've been able to do everything I've wanted with the printer as it was out of the box, so I have no complaints about the main board (aside from no longer heating the bed). I don't need the biggest-baddest board out there. I just don't know how to judge the pros and cons of my choices here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14530" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2019-02-13T23:50:26.657" LastActivityDate="2019-02-13T23:50:26.657" Title="Upgrade main board or straight-across replace?" Tags="|printer-building|electronics|flsun-3d-cube|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8270" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8268" CreationDate="2019-02-13T20:07:03.870" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Considering:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Multimeter shows zero across the board's heat bed contacts&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;this implies that &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you measured &lt;strong&gt;resistance&lt;/strong&gt;, the heated bed has no resistance. Basically this implies that the bed has a short. This might be the reason why it is not working. If you would power it as such you create a short. Instead of replacing the board, you need to replace the heated bed. Typical values for a heated bed of about 200&amp;nbsp;x&amp;nbsp;200&amp;nbsp;mm are in the order of 1.2&amp;nbsp;&amp;Omega; (measurements between 0.9 and 1.5&amp;nbsp;&amp;Omega; are reasonable to be expected).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you measured &lt;strong&gt;voltage&lt;/strong&gt;, the heated bed does not receive power for heating, or the power does not reach the bed (not turned on or broken wire?). It would then be wise to measure the resistance (of the bed and the wires). If the resistance is in the order of about 1.2&amp;nbsp;&amp;Omega; (see above) for the bed, you could try to connect the heated bed directly to the PSU to see if it gets warm, if so, please disconnect immediately to prevent damage. From this experiment you can find whether the heated bed is broken (or the cables), or that the board is not functioning correctly, this is, however, strange as you tried 2 boards. A possible suspect could be the MOSFET that schedules the powering of the heated bed if you use an external MOSFET board that it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you measured &lt;strong&gt;current&lt;/strong&gt;, then you found out that no power is delivered to the board, but you also might have broken your board in the process, as measuring current is a (close to) 0&amp;nbsp;&amp;Omega; connection and has to be done &lt;em&gt;in line&lt;/em&gt; of a circuit.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2019-02-14T16:44:31.460" LastActivityDate="2019-02-14T16:44:31.460" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8271" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-02-13T22:13:05.343" Score="4" ViewCount="4275" Body="&lt;p&gt;When double-probing, sometimes the BLTouch will hit the bed before the z-axis goes down:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The BLTouch deploys &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The bed goes up&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The sensor triggers&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The BLTouch stows&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The BLTouch deploys and crashes the bed before the z-axis goes down for the second probe&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It happens only on the second probe of double-probing (slow speed) - the bed can't move out of the way fast enough.&#xA;This happens in 2/16 probe points.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Probe Accuracy Test result:&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;Mean: 0.023075 mm&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;Min: 0.018 mm&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;Max: 0.027 mm&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;Range: 0.008 mm&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;Standard Deviation: 0.002584 mm&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14383" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-03-31T07:35:23.240" LastActivityDate="2021-12-20T08:16:14.450" Title="The BLTouch is hitting the bed on the double-probing" Tags="|calibration|bed-leveling|z-probe|bltouch|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8272" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-02-14T00:27:50.967" Score="4" ViewCount="1332" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to install a MKS 12864 0.96 OLED for my DIY 3D printer (see &lt;a href=&quot;/q/8256&quot;&gt;this other question&lt;/a&gt;). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's not listed in Marlin's LCD section of &lt;code&gt;configuration.h&lt;/code&gt; and according to some instructions, I need to do some modification to a file  named &lt;code&gt;dogm_lcd_implementation.h&lt;/code&gt; which is &lt;strong&gt;missing&lt;/strong&gt; in Marlin 1.1.9! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Where is it? How can I install my LCD module?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13700" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2019-05-11T00:25:40.253" LastActivityDate="2019-05-11T00:25:40.253" Title="Connecting OLED 128x64 LCD; dogm_lcd_implementation.h is missing for patching" Tags="|marlin|diy-3d-printer|firmware|full-graphic-smart-controller|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8273" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8272" CreationDate="2019-02-14T08:28:45.887" Score="4" Body="&lt;h3&gt;Question History&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An &lt;a href=&quot;/a/8260/&quot;&gt;answer&lt;/a&gt; on your &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/q/8256/8884&quot;&gt;previous question&lt;/a&gt; discusses patches for installing the LCD module in your Marlin printer firmware. Note that these patches are very old (around 2015). Many things have changed since then (as is acknowledged there). That &lt;a href=&quot;/a/8260/&quot;&gt;answer&lt;/a&gt; does not work for recent versions of Marlin source code!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Answer&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, your observation of the &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/Voxel8/Marlin/blob/master/Marlin/dogm_lcd_implementation.h&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;code&gt;dogm_lcd_implementation.h&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/a&gt; file being missing in the 1.1.9 version of Marlin is correct. But, I believe it is not lost, all code and further development can be found in &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/blob/bugfix-1.1.x/Marlin/ultralcd_impl_DOGM.h&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;code&gt;ultralcd_impl_DOGM.h&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/a&gt;. There are some older versions of the file wondering over internet, e.g. &lt;a href=&quot;https://download.lulzbot.com/KITTAZ/software/2014Q4/firmware/Marlin/dogm_lcd_implementation.h&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/Voxel8/Marlin/blob/master/Marlin/dogm_lcd_implementation.h&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;from this older Marlin cloned repository&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I believe that your 2&lt;sup&gt;nd&lt;/sup&gt; patch:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&#xA;/*---------------MKS OLED patch_2-----------------------*/&#xA;#elif defined(U8GLIB_SSD1306)&#xA;U8GLIB_SSD1306_128X64 u8g(23, 17, 16, 25); // SW SPI Com: SCK = 23, MOSI = 17, CS = 16, A0 = 25&#xA;/*---------------MKS OLED patch_2-----------------------*/&#xA;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;should be placed in &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/blob/bugfix-1.1.x/Marlin/ultralcd_impl_DOGM.h&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;code&gt;ultralcd_impl_DOGM.h&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/a&gt; just under:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&#xA;#elif ENABLED(MINIPANEL)&#xA;  // The MINIPanel display&#xA;  //U8GLIB_MINI12864 u8g(DOGLCD_CS, DOGLCD_A0);  // 8 stripes&#xA;  U8GLIB_MINI12864_2X u8g(DOGLCD_CS, DOGLCD_A0); // 4 stripes&#xA;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and before:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&#xA;#else&#xA;  // for regular DOGM128 display with HW-SPI&#xA;  //U8GLIB_DOGM128 u8g(DOGLCD_CS, DOGLCD_A0);  // HW-SPI Com: CS, A0  // 8 stripes&#xA;  U8GLIB_DOGM128_2X u8g(DOGLCD_CS, DOGLCD_A0);  // HW-SPI Com: CS, A0 // 4 stripes&#xA;#endif&#xA;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;to create:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&#xA;#elif ENABLED(MINIPANEL)&#xA;  // The MINIPanel display&#xA;  //U8GLIB_MINI12864 u8g(DOGLCD_CS, DOGLCD_A0);  // 8 stripes&#xA;  U8GLIB_MINI12864_2X u8g(DOGLCD_CS, DOGLCD_A0); // 4 stripes&#xA;#elif ENABLED(U8GLIB_SSD1306)&#xA;  // SW SPI Com: SCK = 23, MOSI = 17, CS = 16, A0 = 25&#xA;  U8GLIB_SSD1306_128X64 u8g(23, 17, 16, 25); &#xA;#else&#xA;  // for regular DOGM128 display with HW-SPI&#xA;  //U8GLIB_DOGM128 u8g(DOGLCD_CS, DOGLCD_A0);  // HW-SPI Com: CS, A0  // 8 stripes&#xA;  U8GLIB_DOGM128_2X u8g(DOGLCD_CS, DOGLCD_A0);  // HW-SPI Com: CS, A0 // 4 stripes&#xA;#endif&#xA;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do note that there &lt;strong&gt;already exists&lt;/strong&gt; an entry for &lt;code&gt;U8GLIB_SSD1306&lt;/code&gt;! This has to be deleted, or you need to put the code in that section (un-commenting existing code)!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;E.g.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&#xA;#elif ENABLED(U8GLIB_SSD1306)&#xA;  // Generic support for SSD1306 OLED I2C LCDs&#xA;  //U8GLIB_SSD1306_128X64 u8g(U8G_I2C_OPT_NONE | U8G_I2C_OPT_FAST);  // 8 stripes&#xA;  U8GLIB_SSD1306_128X64_2X u8g(U8G_I2C_OPT_NONE | U8G_I2C_OPT_FAST); // 4 stripes&#xA;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;could be altered to:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&#xA;#elif ENABLED(U8GLIB_SSD1306)&#xA;  // Generic support for SSD1306 OLED I2C LCDs&#xA;  //U8GLIB_SSD1306_128X64 u8g(U8G_I2C_OPT_NONE | U8G_I2C_OPT_FAST);  // 8 stripes&#xA;  //U8GLIB_SSD1306_128X64_2X u8g(U8G_I2C_OPT_NONE | U8G_I2C_OPT_FAST); // 4 stripes&#xA;  // SW SPI Com: SCK = 23, MOSI = 17, CS = 16, A0 = 25&#xA;  U8GLIB_SSD1306_128X64 u8g(23, 17, 16, 25);&#xA;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:29:41.667" LastActivityDate="2019-05-08T19:19:56.033" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8276" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8266" CreationDate="2019-02-15T00:14:01.787" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;/a/8267&quot;&gt;This answer&lt;/a&gt; is correct, it's normal for Prusa printers to purge at -3&amp;nbsp;mm on the Y axis.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This answer is an addition that describes how to get rid of the error.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Open Octoprint web UI&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Go to &lt;code&gt;Settings&lt;/code&gt; -&gt; &lt;code&gt;Printer Profiles&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Find active profile, click on the pen icon next to it (&lt;code&gt;Edit Profile&lt;/code&gt;)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Go to &lt;code&gt;Print bed and build volume&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tick &lt;code&gt;Custom bounding box&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Enter -3 to &lt;code&gt;Y Coordinates&lt;/code&gt; &lt;code&gt;Min&lt;/code&gt; input box&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hit &lt;code&gt;Confirm&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14319" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-02-18T22:11:53.780" LastActivityDate="2019-02-18T22:11:53.780" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8277" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5170" CreationDate="2019-02-15T01:08:20.043" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sounds like you are configured for NC switches but are using NO switches, causing them to invert their reported state. Issue a &lt;strong&gt;M119&lt;/strong&gt; command and see if the endstop statuses are correct when none are triggered.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12950" LastActivityDate="2019-02-15T01:08:20.043" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8278" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5257" CreationDate="2019-02-15T01:52:06.290" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;My A8 just started doing this. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I shut down repetier server, and voila, all is good! Since I will go do OctoPi eventually, I just uninstalled RS.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14542" LastActivityDate="2019-02-15T01:52:06.290" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8279" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-02-15T08:59:08.877" Score="1" ViewCount="58" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to print a very simple item that I created in blender:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Fhkc3.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Fhkc3.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, the print always ends up being a simple &quot;plane&quot; with some scribbely stuff on top&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14545" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2020-07-13T11:19:18.850" LastActivityDate="2020-07-13T11:19:18.850" Title="My 3D prints don't end up the same as the model" Tags="|3d-models|troubleshooting|blender|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="8" ClosedDate="2019-02-16T16:03:33.047" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8280" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-02-15T11:44:08.840" Score="4" ViewCount="9132" Body="&lt;p&gt;What are the best settings for Ultimaker Cura to have support material that's easy to remove for my Anet A8. I have printed an object with two different spools of PLA (same manufacturer just different color). The black print was printed with 200&amp;nbsp;°C, the grey one with 210&amp;nbsp;°C both a flow of 100&amp;nbsp;%. Thee black print seems like it has a little over-extrusion while the grey print has some under-extrusion artifacts despite the higher printing temperature. The grey support was really hard to remove and looks super messy the black one not so much...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What would be better settings?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/biydn.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/biydn.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;image of two prints printed at different temperatures&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could it be that the material is so much different despite same manufacturer? The black one seems to flow much better than the grey one. Both have suggested temperature of 210&amp;nbsp;°C&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/s20fN.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/s20fN.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;BTW the thing is 33x25&amp;nbsp;mm in size. It's rather tiny that makes printing it somewhat awkward...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have finished another print with a brim and a different support setting (Cross with 50&amp;nbsp;%) and at 195&amp;nbsp;°C and an infill rate of 100&amp;nbsp;%. The support came off much better, the under-extrusion is minimal on the layers however for some reason the top layer does get messed up with open spots and the little nob at the corner was just a a mere stringy stumb that fell off instantly and the walls of the holes came out spongy while the layers of the ring and the long side are smooth and fine...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Rye9r.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Rye9r.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5359" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2019-02-16T11:34:13.670" LastActivityDate="2019-02-16T11:34:13.670" Title="Slicer settings for easy support material removal" Tags="|print-quality|ultimaker-cura|anet-a8|troubleshooting|support-structures|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8282" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8280" CreationDate="2019-02-15T12:07:06.523" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;From the picture, I suggest printing with 200 °C, as the grey print lost its cohesion at a higher temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Why higher = worse&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A filament is a solid that turns into a highly viscous fluid under heating and the more you heat it, the less viscous it gets. However, it also has a very high surface tension, which means, that as it extrudes and if it is not pressed down immediately, then the filament goop will thin as the head moves, resulting in under extrusion and stringiness. Print temperatures from manufacturers have to be seen with a grain of salt, as the measurements are calibrated to their test printer, which is not your printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Support Structures&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To get good support structures, the support needs to:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;have enough surface to not topple over &#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;in case of thin towers, use a brim&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The density should be enough to carry but not enough to stick too well&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I have had best experiences with 5 to 10% support&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;don't support angles that don't need it&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;45° is safe, 70° is on the very hard side. I go with 50 to 60° usually.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In a related manner, make sure that the &lt;code&gt;minimum layer time&lt;/code&gt; is set to at about 5 to 10 seconds, which allows the single tip to cool down a little and get better prints&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Print Geometry Analysis&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The part you want to print is quite complicated with the different Z-heights to start at. It might be possible to increase printability by including &quot;sacrifice blocks&quot; of material about 1 or 2 layer heights below the print, pretty much including a support structure into the print design itself. This way the bottom might get better supported.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2019-02-16T11:33:16.230" LastActivityDate="2019-02-16T11:33:16.230" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8283" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8280" CreationDate="2019-02-15T14:51:13.440" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cura has some settings for the support structure which may help.  Somewhere in the full Preferences menu is a setting for &quot;gap at top&quot; or equivalent wording.  If you increase that gap slightly, the support material will be less strongly bonded to the part.   Be careful, since a huge gap could lead to bridging problems. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2191" LastActivityDate="2019-02-15T14:51:13.440" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8284" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-02-15T19:46:28.433" Score="2" ViewCount="109" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got a pretty straightforward problem. In general my printer is very accurate for the XYZ movements. What I'm running into is no matter what size my print is, the XY dimensions will be thicker by around .1 mm. And it's not just the external walls, but interior walls as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have run single and double wall calibration prints to check my extrusion multiplier and they all check out correctly. I know that there is an XY compensation option in Simplify 3D, but I don't like it because quite frequently it results in a drastically different slice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know that cooling can cause a part to contract and distort, but this seems to be something different. It's very uniform all around. Is there another way to address this during slicing instead of the XY compensation? I definitely don't want to make the adjustments in my models because that results in a bunch of annoying math I don't want to get into.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4548" LastActivityDate="2019-02-15T19:46:28.433" Title="Extruder calibrated, but prints still oversized by .1 mm or so" Tags="|calibration|extrusion|fdm|simplify3d|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8285" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8159" CreationDate="2019-02-16T03:12:10.803" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cr-10 S Pro has an eco mode make sure it's not turned on because this will turn your bed off after the first few layers have printed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14555" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-02-16T07:11:16.183" LastActivityDate="2019-02-16T07:11:16.183" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8287" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3015" CreationDate="2019-02-16T14:56:39.560" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've just seen this right now, I'm Alvaro Rey, the designer of the p3steel v4 mod. The change was made, because with previous versions with the extruder homed, if you go up in the Z axis, the extruder motor could hit the Z axis top plate. So, in order to avoid that, I just changed the design.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bearing in the z axis is not necessary but some people prefer to use it, in order to avoid wobble in the threaded rod. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyways, I designed a printer part to fix the bearing in the Z top plate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14559" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2019-02-16T16:09:56.347" LastActivityDate="2019-02-16T16:09:56.347" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8288" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8290" CreationDate="2019-02-16T17:14:12.037" Score="3" ViewCount="4917" Body="&lt;p&gt;I calibrated my extruder according to the &lt;a href=&quot;https://mattshub.com/2017/04/19/extruder-calibration/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;mattshub tutorial&lt;/a&gt; and printed the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2490893&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;extruder calibration test cube&lt;/a&gt; with 2 perimeters of 0.4 mm. So the walls should all be 0.8mm thick but only 3 are close to 0.8mm and one is about 0.93 mm thick. The pictures are one turn, walls following each other are side by side:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Sr87G.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Sr87G.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Thick wall&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iexNC.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iexNC.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;thin wall&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cu8cO.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cu8cO.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Average Wall 1&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kEKOW.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kEKOW.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Average Wall 2&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Update 1&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I printed a solid, smooth calibration cube with 1 Perimeter of 0.45 mm, 0 top/bottom layers and 0 % infill, as suggested and got 0.56 mm,&#xA;0.65 mm, 0.79 mm and 0.54 mm&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mAvYK.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mAvYK.png&quot; alt=&quot;The results: 0.56/0.65/0.79/0.54 &quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I believe that the thickest side is the one where the layer ends and retraction is done in the corner before layer change. Maybe retraction settings?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Update 2&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After setting the Extrusion Multiplier to 70%, I got wall thicknesses of 0.89 mm,&#xA;0.86 mm, 0.81 mm and 0.96 mm on a 2 Perimeter print of the same object.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Update 3&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Fudging&lt;/em&gt; with the steps per millimeter changed them from 428 to 306. The resulting one perimeter test was 0.59 mm, 0.46 mm, 0.42 mm and 0.39 mm, pretty much spot on safe for one wall being fat and one thin...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I print at 215 °C with 5 mm retraction to increase strength and get stringing in check.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14506" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:29:41.667" LastActivityDate="2019-02-17T13:45:02.783" Title="Extrusion test cube resulted in one wall being thicker" Tags="|extruder|calibration|tevo-tornado|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8289" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-02-16T17:14:59.660" Score="1" ViewCount="243" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm building a 3D printer for bio medical application and looking for different opinions on motion system. Build volume 400x300x250 mm&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm thinking about using Linear guide way with ball screw &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Free-Shipping-oem-low-price-40mm-wide-linear-guide-rail-with-motor-and-ball-screw-for/32607755602.html?spm=2114.search0604.3.8.2ba070f976eHAY&amp;amp;s=p&amp;amp;ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_4_10065_10068_10059_10696_100031_5017615_10084_10083_10103_451_5017515_452_10618_10307_5017415_5017715,searchweb201603_54,ppcSwitch_2&amp;amp;algo_expid=3220a35f-ec02-4854-862b-b1f201b8ab47-4&amp;amp;algo_pvid=3220a35f-ec02-4854-862b-b1f201b8ab47&amp;amp;priceBeautifyAB=0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Linear guide way with ball screw&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would this mechanism be good for a 3D printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm als0 thinking about using &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.omc-stepperonline.com/closed-loop-stepper-motor/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Closed loop stepper motor&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.omc-stepperonline.com/closed-loop-stepper-driver/closed-loop-stepper-driver-0-70a-24-48vdc-for-nema-17-23-24-stepper-motor-cl57t.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Closed loop driver&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There'll be two X axes and Y will be mounted on that.&#xA;Z axis will be able to move Up and Down&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10670" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2019-02-16T17:24:14.617" LastActivityDate="2019-02-16T17:24:14.617" Title="Linear guideway with Ball screw for X, Y ,&amp; Z axes" Tags="|diy-3d-printer|linear-motion|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="4" ClosedDate="2019-02-25T13:23:37.893" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8290" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8288" CreationDate="2019-02-16T17:40:27.603" Score="5" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Why not that test print?&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You don't want a print constraining your walls to 0.8 mm, since you don't want to print with 1 nozzle diameter for better print quality. Atop that, slicing can induce errors that increase the thickness of walls without us noticing it in the slicer view. Two sources of error (once for each wall)&#xA;means an additional 10% error, which would bring the wall as you got perfectly into the expected area: &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$0.8\text{ mm}\times 1,1\times 1,1=0.968\text{ mm}$&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Let's Troubleshoot!&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might not have calibrated the extrusion multiplier correctly, or the steps/mm might be off, or other print settings shoot us way off. Let's make sure to find the source.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Filament extrusion multiplier&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;use a solid cube as a base, for example, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:38108&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:38108&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;set &lt;code&gt;line width&lt;/code&gt; to 0.45 mm to counteract errors from die swell and get a better print result in general&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; &#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$d_\text{line width}=0.45\text{ mm}$&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;set the number of walls/perimeters to 1&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$p=1$&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;set &lt;code&gt;infill&lt;/code&gt; to 0%&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;set &lt;code&gt;top layers&lt;/code&gt; to 0&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;set the &lt;code&gt;extrusion multiplier&lt;/code&gt; to 100 %&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;print the cube (or half of it, Z-height does not matter too much) with no top and infill and 1 perimeter&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;re-measure the walls&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Done that? Math time to calculate the correct multiplier for the filament! The average wall is easy:&lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$$d_\text {average}={\frac{\sum_{i=1}^4 d_i}{4}}$$&lt;/span&gt; &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$$\frac{d_\text{line width}\times p}{d_\text {average}}=\text{Extrusion multiplier}$$&lt;/span&gt;&#xA;Remember, that the result is not in % but a float point number! 1 is 100%. So you fill in that value times 100 into the &lt;code&gt;extrusion multiplier&lt;/code&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After this, repeat the whole process with 2 perimeters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1 - further reading: &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/q/6965/8884&quot;&gt;Why is it conventional to set line width &gt; nozzle diameter?&lt;/a&gt; &amp;amp; &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/6969/8884&quot;&gt;Slicer line width vs. extrusion multiplier for layer adhesion?&#xA;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Steps/mm&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Make sure to test the extruder &lt;em&gt;against the heated extruder&lt;/em&gt;, then repeat the calibration as your tutorial explained. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For some tests, let's &lt;em&gt;fudge&lt;/em&gt; to some degree: Trying a &lt;em&gt;filament dependant&lt;/em&gt; value of steps per millimeter can help to try to find &lt;em&gt;other&lt;/em&gt; sources of errors easier - it makes them at times more pronounced. So we just multiply our steps/mm with the extrusion multiplier that we calculate the way outlined below. For 428 steps/mm and the numbers from Update 3, this gives about 306 steps/mm. &lt;strong&gt;This is not a proper calibration&lt;/strong&gt;, but a means for troubleshooting. After fudging with the parameters reset the extrusion multiplier to 100%, we just want to check what influences our thickness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Other print settings&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;215 °C is way hot. Even if it can increase print strength in solid prints, it is usually better to print at 200 °C and less.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Reduce retraction, possibly to 4 mm or maybe even 3 mm.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lower temperature and less retraction should get prints more consistent, as pressure changes in the nozzle are more consistent. Remember, we are playing with the settings here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;And now &lt;strong&gt;Properly&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Back to Calibration!&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After all the fudging and probably making everything worse, we got to make sure to properly calibrate, those settings will be WAY OFF, in fact, we might go back to the original steps/mm or higher:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Note the current steps/mm as &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$s$&lt;/span&gt;. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mark the 150mm from the extruder intake. remember if you marked on the close or far side... or simply cut the filament as exact as you can. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Heat the hotend &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;send a &lt;code&gt;G1 E100 F100&lt;/code&gt; &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Measure the distance to the extruder intake afterwards as &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$d$&lt;/span&gt; to get the actual extruded filament &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$e$&lt;/span&gt;. Make sure to measure the same side of the marking!&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$(150-d)=e$&lt;/span&gt; &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$\frac{s\times 100}{e}=s^*$&lt;/span&gt; as the corrected steps/mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;send &lt;code&gt;M92 E###.##&lt;/code&gt; with ###.## taking the &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$s^*$&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;send &lt;code&gt;M500&lt;/code&gt; to store the value to the EEPROM&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Extrusion/Flow Calibration&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, go back to print a single filament extrusion multiplier calibration, as above. It should be somewhat close(er) to 100% now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Slicer Fault?&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that &lt;strong&gt;not all Slicers are equal&lt;/strong&gt;: some slicers are better and more consistent in the results than others with the stock settings, and even with the same settings results may varry. For example the line width for the same settings with Simplify3D and Cura or Slic3r Prusa Edition can differ. The reasons for this are hard to find exactly, but they are most likely rooted in the different slicing processes and optimisation. Sometimes it is some setting that might be overlooked that results in line width variations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Slicer world changed a lot betwene 2015 and 2019, and even if you got fed up with one slicer years ago, now it might be worth a shot to test it again. See if you might get better results with other slicers, as for whatever reason, your slicer might cause the issiues, whih allows you to hunt down setting dependant items.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2019-02-17T13:45:02.783" LastActivityDate="2019-02-17T13:45:02.783" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8291" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8159" CreationDate="2019-02-16T21:41:45.283" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I do have the CR 10S Pro as well and for me it does the same but only because it's a setting in the slicer I enabled. Make sure you check the slicer settings to make sure it is not a setting which is turning it off. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally I do let it cool down after 10 layers since it does save energy, and I've not seen any negative effects because of it when printing PLA. Have not yet tried PETG or ABS on this printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13840" LastActivityDate="2019-02-16T21:41:45.283" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8292" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-02-17T02:59:22.820" Score="2" ViewCount="136" Body="&lt;p&gt;When printing a 1&amp;nbsp;cm test cube after upgrading to the V6 the cubes are tilted ever so slightly. This does not happen with the stock MK8 hotend, or when printing with the V6 with Polycarbonate+Carbonfiber, so it is not a mechanical problem; it seems to be limited to PLA. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Searching forums for this is no help as everyone says to check to make sure the frame is square, etc..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What would cause this? Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A picture has been added, but it is difficult to see the problem in the picture because of the inherent problems with photographing shapes in general, but here are some examples. The grey is PLA and the black is PC+carbon. The black one is acceptably square while the grey is not. The picture may not accurately convey this but trust me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have tried slowing the speed down, everywhere between 60-20&amp;nbsp;mm/s, it did not help. Temp between 180-210&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C, bed between 60-70&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the PC+carbon the temp is much higher of course, around 260-270&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C and the bed is 90-100&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C, print speed 40&amp;nbsp;mm/s.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gIYyR.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gIYyR.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13829" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-10-02T04:57:29.497" LastActivityDate="2019-10-02T04:57:29.497" Title="E3D V6 PLA prints leaning / not square" Tags="|pla|troubleshooting|e3d-v6|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8293" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8299" CreationDate="2019-02-17T03:50:02.237" Score="2" ViewCount="428" Body="&lt;p&gt;Running my Flsun 3D Cube from a Kubuntu PC using Octopi, and trying to get my webcam to work with it. I've followed the instructions on Github for mjpg_streamer to the letter. Everything I've read says, &quot;Sure! The Raspberry PI directions will work with Linux, you bet!&quot; but they don't, at least, not for me, a beginning level Linux user.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know that my webcam works with Kubuntu since I can load it and view it using VLC, but I've been unable to figure out how to get Octopi to read the stream from VLC (the documentation could use some improvement) or even confirm if the stream works.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Back to mjpg_streamer: when I issue the command &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;export LD_LIBRARY_PATH=. ./mjpg_streamer -o &quot;output_http.so -w ./www&quot; -i &quot;input_raspicam.so&quot;&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I get &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;bash: export: 'mjpg_streamer': not a valid identifier&#xA;bash: export: '-o:' not a valid identifier&#xA;bash: export: 'output_http.so -w ./www': not a valid identifier&#xA;bash: export: '-i': not a valid identifier&#xA;bash: export: 'input_raspicam.so': not a valid identifier&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know what I don't know, and I don't know how to proceed. The goal is to view my webcam in Octopi/Octolapse on a Kubuntu PC. (Windows with Yawcam, no brainer; Linux, not so much.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14530" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2019-02-17T10:57:16.300" LastActivityDate="2019-02-19T16:21:46.900" Title="mjpg_streamer, Octopi, Kubuntu" Tags="|troubleshooting|octoprint|flsun-3d-cube|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8295" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-02-17T19:00:18.093" Score="2" ViewCount="68" Body="&lt;p&gt;I built my first printer couple of days ago. I started printing small models (20x20&amp;nbsp;mm max.) and everything was alright at first. However, when I tried to print a bit larger models, I started facing a problem. The nozzle keeps hitting the path of a previous layer or even current layer. That then causes jams, and the whole layer shifts 5-10&amp;nbsp;mm in the X or Y direction. I tried using different layer heights (from 0.08&amp;nbsp;mm to 0.44&amp;nbsp;mm), adjusting the speed of print but that did not help. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14504" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-02-17T23:26:45.730" LastActivityDate="2019-02-17T23:26:45.730" Title="Path of a nozzle crosses over itself" Tags="|diy-3d-printer|nozzle|layer-height|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8296" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-02-19T02:47:51.657" Score="2" ViewCount="17812" Body="&lt;p&gt;For a while now, my AmazonBasics PETG filament has been working like a charm. Now, it is balling up on my nozzle. I've tried slowing it down, re-leveling the bed, etc. I don't want to go through the hassle of replacing my nozzle with a Micro-Swiss all metal 0.4&amp;nbsp;mm nozzle. I've tried the other extruder which I know works with PLA, but same results. I'm using a Flashforge Creator Pro(2016).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14573" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2019-08-31T09:26:06.470" LastActivityDate="2019-12-11T07:53:02.417" Title="PETG Sticking to Nozzle" Tags="|pla|extruder|nozzle|petg|flashforge-creator|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8297" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8305" CreationDate="2019-02-19T03:11:42.517" Score="3" ViewCount="729" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am going to buy an inductive probe for my Creality Ender 3 to enable ABL (Automatic Bed Leveling). And now, I have one last question left on my mind:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am going to buy a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.conrad.de/de/vishay-optokoppler-phototransistor-sfh610a-1-dip-4-transistor-dc-154085.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Vishay Optokoppler Phototransistor SFH610A-1 DIP-4 Transistor DC&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it sufficient to put a 2&amp;nbsp;-&amp;nbsp;2.2&amp;nbsp;k&amp;Omega; resistor between the input of the octocouplers LED side and the 24&amp;nbsp;V Output of the probe, to lower the current and voltage enough to work with the octocoupler? Or do I need something else?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the transistor side, I will simply attach the 2 wire Z-endstop cable, +5&amp;nbsp;V on Collector and GND on Emitter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14574" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-02-20T23:18:01.393" LastActivityDate="2019-02-21T14:07:21.870" Title="Hooking up an optocoupler in a 24V Machine, is a 2 kOhm resistor sufficient?" Tags="|z-axis|electronics|creality-ender-3|bed-leveling|inductive-sensor|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8299" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8293" CreationDate="2019-02-19T04:46:20.170" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Going to post the answer here for posterity and for those, like me, trying to cope with Linux after making a career in Windows.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm running Kubuntu 18 because I didn't want to have to buy an operating system or install a bootleg copy of Windows. The most important thing for a Windows user to know is that the readme.md file is important. Think of it as a .chm file, or a series of linked help documents. What you want to know is THERE, not on the github page. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using the following command in the mjpg-streamer-experimental directory got me where I needed to go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;mjpg_streamer -i 'input_uvc.so -d /dev/video0 -r SVGA -f 30' -o 'output_http.so'&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;e.g. webcam, 800x600, 30fps to http (port 8080 is the default) The MD files break it down. I also found two web pages very useful: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://skillfulness.blogspot.com/2010/03/mjpg-streamer-documentation.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://skillfulness.blogspot.com/2010/03/mjpg-streamer-documentation.html&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://wiki.ubuntuusers.de/MJPG-Streamer/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://wiki.ubuntuusers.de/MJPG-Streamer/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In OctoPrint the streaming setting is then:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;http://127.0.0.1:8080/?action=stream&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my case, I use the network IP rather than local host so I can monitor the print from my upstairs PC. For snapshots: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;http://127.0.0.1:8080/?action=snapshot&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'll admit that Octolapse doesn't work for me yet because I'm still trying to work out ffmpeg, but that's another issue. &lt;strong&gt;EDIT:&lt;/strong&gt; got that done, too. Useful command: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;whereis ffmpeg&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14530" LastEditorUserId="13883" LastEditDate="2019-02-19T16:21:46.900" LastActivityDate="2019-02-19T16:21:46.900" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8300" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6462" CreationDate="2019-02-19T06:24:43.407" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;What it may useful to improve your prints, are the following elements, according to my personal experience with the Tevo Tornado: &#xA;1) level the bed when it's warm.&#xA;2) print a cylinder that should measure 100 mm, afterwards measure it with a caliper: regulate the steps per mm according to the difference (many guides for calibration are available, for example: &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/Wk3qYOB4E9I&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://youtu.be/Wk3qYOB4E9I&lt;/a&gt;)&#xA;3) print this object to be installed on the z axis and regulated with an M5 screw and nut: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2827664&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2827664&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;4) Print a test for temperatures, like this: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2131069&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2131069&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;I hope it helps. Happy printing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14577" LastActivityDate="2019-02-19T06:24:43.407" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8301" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8484" CreationDate="2019-02-19T10:26:43.260" Score="3" ViewCount="890" Body="&lt;p&gt;First, I'm using Linux Mint 18.3 (Sylvia). Until now, I've been using OpenSCAD with the GUI and never experienced issues. Now I try to start OpenSCAD from the command line, but it always opens an empty file, even if a file with the specified name exists. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since I have a rather big script, I'd like to generate the STL's via the CLI. Due to this error, I can not even do any tests for parameter passing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I'd like to do is to issue a command (flom the command line or in a shell script) that says &quot;Set objectID to 1, render and export the result to stl&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is my M(N)WE:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;// test.scad&#xA;&#xA;objectID = 2;&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;if (objectID == 1)  &#xA;difference(){  &#xA;    cylinder(d=20, h=50, center=true);  &#xA;    cylinder(d=16, h=50.2, center=true);      &#xA;}&#xA;&#xA;else if (objectID == 2)  &#xA;difference(){  &#xA;    cube(50, center=true);  &#xA;    cube([35,35,70], center=true);  &#xA;}&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any help will greatly be appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10070" LastActivityDate="2019-03-19T10:11:10.503" Title="OpenSCAD 2018 Command line" Tags="|stl|openscad|linux|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8302" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8301" CreationDate="2019-02-19T17:45:03.427" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can specify variable values from command line using:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&#xA;openscad     ...\&#xA;             ... \&#xA;             [ -D var=val [..] ] \&#xA;             ... \&#xA;             ... \&#xA;             filename&#xA;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See the &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.m.wikibooks.org/wiki/OpenSCAD_User_Manual/Using_OpenSCAD_in_a_command_line_environment&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;OpenSCAD Manual&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14584" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-02-19T19:15:32.250" LastActivityDate="2019-02-19T19:15:32.250" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8305" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8297" CreationDate="2019-02-20T06:28:22.320" Score="1" Body="&lt;h3&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wikipedia:Too_long;_didn%27t_read&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;TL;DR&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, a 2 kΩ resistor is sufficient to limit the current to about 12 mA through the optocoupler. With a maximum current specification of 60 mA you require at least 400 Ω; any resistor in between the values should be suitable for this optocoupler component when used at 24 V. More information is found below.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having a glass bed and using an inductive probe may not work optimally. In such cases a 3D touch sensor is a very good alternative. For inductive sensors, remember that these sensors optimally detect steel, aluminium is harder to detect (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fargocontrols.com/sensors/inductive_op.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;about 60 % less than iron&lt;/a&gt;; a glass sheet in between the bed and the sensor requires you to acquire a sensor with a large detection range, e.g. 8 mm or more. To optimize the detection distance such sensors need to be powered to the maximum voltage they can handle (usually 36 V) or the highest voltage you have available (e.g. power supply 12 or 24 V). To protect the board, that is only allowed to receive up to 5 V, an optocoupler is an excellent way to guarantee the separation of voltage levels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Considering your questions, it is fair to assume you are not an experienced electronics tinkerer, purchasing an optocoupler module is the best alternative, you just screw the wires into the respective input screw terminals as shown in &lt;a href=&quot;/a/6359&quot;&gt;this answer&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As the optocoupler separates two circuits, you can safely use 24 V on the one side and the 5 V on the other side, you do not need an additional resistor when you use a module board. If you plan to buy separate components to build your own circuit, you need to look at the maximum current that the optocoupler can handle on the input side (that will be 24 V). From the documentation from the optocoupler one reads that it is limited to 60 mA. A &lt;strong&gt;maximum current&lt;/strong&gt; would therefore require a resistor of:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$$ R=\frac{U}{I}=\frac{24}{60\times10^{-3}}=400\ \Omega $$&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My 12 V optocoupler module uses a 1 kΩ resistor implying a 12 mA current. In your case allowing 12 mA of current yields a 2 kΩ resistor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:29:41.667" LastActivityDate="2019-02-21T14:07:21.870" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8306" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-02-20T14:13:03.410" Score="2" ViewCount="537" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I just got this CubePro Duo and the guy we bought it off had 3 filament cartridges to go with it, two installed and one spare. The one spare was white PLA while the two installed were colored ABS so I wanted to try out the white PLA for printing so I followed all the instructions on the printer up to put the cartridge in and now its stuck on &quot;Material Validation&quot; step and just isn't doing anything. I followed everything as closely as I could and even started over again in case I did something wrong but it still won't &quot;validate&quot; the material?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have no idea what's going on and I would really appreciate some help, thanks in advance!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14592" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2019-02-20T15:27:15.590" LastActivityDate="2019-02-20T15:56:50.250" Title="CubePro Duo Filament Cartridge Replacment Problem" Tags="|filament|print-material|cubepro-duo|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8307" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-02-20T14:20:06.850" Score="1" ViewCount="545" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking at options for removable heatbed surfaces for my Prusa Mk2 clone, which has a MK42 bed, 250x210mm&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a removable spring steel plate at the moment, but it is not dependably flat - there are often issues with patchy filament adhesion or oversquashing, as it has bumps in it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm looking at a magnetic solution instead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone have experience of &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Premium-3D-Printer-Build-Plate-Tape-Heat-Bed-Platform-Sticker-300x210mm/292772234757&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this type&lt;/a&gt; of stick-on magnetic surface? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Any drawbacks?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Can I trim it to size? I can't see any which are 250 x 210&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13832" LastEditorUserId="13832" LastEditDate="2019-02-20T15:22:10.913" LastActivityDate="2019-02-20T15:23:47.483" Title="Magnetic heatbed options - can I trim these to size?" Tags="|heated-bed|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8309" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8307" CreationDate="2019-02-20T15:23:47.483" Score="2" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Adhesion and sizing&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First of all, the product you link is very likely a BuildTak clone or a similar product. My Ender 3 came with a similar one and I have changed to a different one after I ripped it off accidentally to mount a similar one. I have yet to find a sheet of this material that you can't cut to size, as it is pretty much only a polymer with a strong tape on one side and a rough surface on the other. So trimming is not a problem at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Mounting&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To mount your new surface, you need to get a surface onto your heatbed that has&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;good contact on all the area&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;securely holds the bed in place&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;is as flat as possible&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So you surely want to get a metal sheet that is as flat as possible to mount your surface on. If your bed is heated, your mounting method needs to transfer the heat as good as possible, so a direct contact to the heated bed would be good. This, however, rules out most thin magnets, as these magnet sheets demagnetize under heat, limiting the usability for higher temperature materials, for example, ABS. The original Prusa uses a spring steel bed and high-temperature magnets embedded in the heating platform to work around this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:29:41.667" LastActivityDate="2019-02-20T15:23:47.483" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8310" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8306" CreationDate="2019-02-20T15:56:50.250" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.3dsystems.com/shop/support/cubepro/videos&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;CubePro Duo&lt;/a&gt; is a discontinued 3d-systems printer. It uses their standard proprietary cartridges to prevent to use other filaments. In comparison to other printer filaments, their filaments range between 100 and 150$ per spool, which is listed as &quot;1 kg&quot; (though if that is with or without casing is not clear).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From what I could find out about the cartridges, they should contain some kind of identification method to the printer. That it is stuck in Validation means, that it might not be able to read this. So let's try installing the cartridge again, &lt;a href=&quot;http://cubify.s3.amazonaws.com/Printers/Cubepro/cubepro_user_guide_en.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;following the handbook p.17&lt;/a&gt;!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Take out the cartridge&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;boot the machine&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;wait for the machine to ask for filament&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;remove the thumbscrew so the filament spool inside the cartridge can turn &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;pull out the 30 cm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;cut 5 cm off the end&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;insert the material into the Bowden tube of slot 1&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;push the material till you get some goop coming out&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;mount the cartridge into the slot, make sure it is clamped in tightly.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This should start the validation of the material, at which point you might get told that the colors don't match the print defined colors. Should the cartridge not be validated again but works on the ABS cartridges, the validation method might be broken on this cartridge. Should it not recognize either, the firmware or the detector might be broken.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastActivityDate="2019-02-20T15:56:50.250" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8311" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2019-02-20T22:16:33.550" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;3D PrinterWorks was founded in 2013 and launched the CreatorBot on the back of a successful Kickstarter campaign the following year. They subsequently made the CreatorBot Pro for high-end hobbyists and professional users, and launched the larger HT-5800 for manufacturing in April 2018. The business stopped operating around July 2018, and their former website is no longer available.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13100" LastEditorUserId="13100" LastEditDate="2019-02-21T14:09:41.873" LastActivityDate="2019-02-21T14:09:41.873" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8312" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2019-02-20T22:16:33.550" Score="0" Body="3D Printer manufacturer. Their most known printer is the CreatorBot but use this tag if your question is about any of their printers." OwnerUserId="13100" LastEditorUserId="13100" LastEditDate="2019-02-21T14:09:20.303" LastActivityDate="2019-02-21T14:09:20.303" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8313" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8315" CreationDate="2019-02-21T01:42:44.600" Score="9" ViewCount="7954" Body="&lt;p&gt;PLA wood has a beautiful natural texture that I wanted to try. But when I used it in my second print, it clogged the nozzle (solved). I know this filament is composed of 70 % PLA and 30 % recycled pine wood fibers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Are there special indications for this kind of filament?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Should I modify the temperature, or other settings?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14577" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-02-26T00:16:39.250" LastActivityDate="2021-02-26T08:38:22.053" Title="PLA wood filament: a special treatment?" Tags="|filament|filled-pla|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8315" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8313" CreationDate="2019-02-21T07:21:57.500" Score="14" Body="&lt;h2&gt;PLA and wood fibres = wood filament&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most wood filamet consists of about 60-70 % PLA and 40-30 % wood fibres. This basically implies that PLA temperatures should be used. It can be printed with standard 0.4 mm nozzles, but it is adviced to be printed with a larger diameter nozzle. A larger nozzle will less likely to cause nozzles to clog (more area for the fibres to pass through).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Basic printing advice&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Start experimenting with relatively large layer heights (0.25-0.3 mm layer heights). Printing speeds should be held high to ensure relative short residence times in the hot end (in the range 50-80 mm/s). Short residence times prevent   degradation by heat resulting in clogging. It is best for wood fibres filled filaments to not have the filament to stagnate (e.g. pausing). A higher retraction speed and distance might be needed because the filament usually is a little more runny compared to plain PLA.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Beware&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After printing, you should retract the filament from the hotend so that during next printing jobs heat up cycle, the filament doesn't degrade and clogs the nozzle. Alter the end script G-code and also use priming scripts at the start and/or do not forget to use a large skirt of multiple lines or a considerable length. As always, you shouldn't leave the printer unattended, regularly check the printer and shut down the printer when there is something wrong, e.g. not extruding. Also note that wood filled filament is &lt;a href=&quot;/a/15371&quot;&gt;reported to be abrasive&lt;/a&gt; to brass nozzles, a (hardened) steel nozzle or a Ruby nozzle should mitigate wear problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Basic settings&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These settings have proven to work, but are not a guarantee, these settings should provide a reference to start experimenting on your own printer:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Temperature: 190-205 °C&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Layerheight: 0.25 mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Speed: 50 mm/s&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Minimal layertime: 8 s&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bowden type extruder&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Retraction speed: 40 mm/s&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Retraction distance: 5.5 mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Direct extruder&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Retraction speed: 25 mm/s&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Retraction distance: 1.3 mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-02-26T08:38:22.053" LastActivityDate="2021-02-26T08:38:22.053" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8316" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8317" CreationDate="2019-02-21T13:09:38.600" Score="1" ViewCount="2763" Body="&lt;p&gt;So, having bought this cube pro duo 3d printer a few days ago I have come to see how significantly limiting the default slicer software that comes with the machine is. For the prints that I am doing I've been looking around at alternative slicers however the cube pro has its own file format for builds and I'm not sure if any other software has the option to export those specifically and I also have no idea id the CubePro can read any files other than its own. On top of this whenever I download some other slicer it gets to the printer setup and there's a whole bunch of settings and parameters for the printer that I haven't been able to find, stuff like Firmware or Nozzle Diameter (Something that id expect to be easy to find).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In particularly a software called IdeaMaker is what I'm interested in since I've seen that you can make custom supports and that would be very useful for what I'm doing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know what I can do? Or is this a case of there's nothing I can do without some serious modification that I'd rather not do?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any help is appreciated thanks! :D&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14592" LastActivityDate="2020-04-06T22:18:29.437" Title="CubePro Alternative Slicer" Tags="|software|slicing|firmware|cubepro-duo|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8317" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8316" CreationDate="2019-02-21T14:25:49.077" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;As far as I understand, the CubePro 3D printers use their own format: .cubepro or .cubex.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It &lt;a href=&quot;https://forum.simplify3d.com/viewtopic.php?t=5924&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;appears&lt;/a&gt; that a:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;.cubepro file format and found out that it only does a Blowfish ECB encryption of the .bfb file&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This implies that you need to find a slicer that outputs &lt;code&gt;.bfb&lt;/code&gt; tool path files (similar like G-code files) and a tool to encrypt the tool path file. The dubious CodeX tool and &lt;a href=&quot;https://forum.simplify3d.com/viewtopic.php?t=5924&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this alternative&lt;/a&gt; can do that for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-02-21T17:26:40.813" LastActivityDate="2019-02-21T17:26:40.813" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8318" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-02-21T16:11:00.997" Score="4" ViewCount="313" Body="&lt;p&gt;My model layers are printing much as I expect but the parts when removed from the plate are very soft and flexible and fail to harden any further in sunlight or UV lamplight.  A tall or slender part will bend and distort under its own weight while printing.  I am using LCD-T resin, I have increased time and reduced thicknesses and am now using 0.04&amp;nbsp;mm layers at 20&amp;nbsp;s and 255 brightness with no improvement.&#xA;Can anyone suggest what I need to change?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14605" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-11-22T22:08:50.360" LastActivityDate="2020-04-21T16:52:55.977" Title="Sparkmaker SLA resin not curing" Tags="|sla|resin|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8319" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-02-21T20:14:21.833" Score="6" ViewCount="4059" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm new to 3D printing an I just got a Creality Ender 3 and I think I'm getting some good results with small prints. However, now that I'm trying some bigger prints and I'm running into infill material excess. In the picture below I just printed a solid cube with 20&amp;nbsp;% infill and that's the result.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/17Ctr.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/17Ctr.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;I have been playing with settings a lot but I'm really running out of ideas.&#xA;These are the settings I have:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;my bed, fortunately, came in pretty flat. My first layer is always very good indeed&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;bed level method: paper method&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Slicer: Ultimaker Cura&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;material: PETG (Amazon basics)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;layer height: 0.2&amp;nbsp;mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;nozzle temperature: 230&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C, but also tried 220&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C and 210&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;bed temperature: 90&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;flow: 98&amp;nbsp;%, but also tried all the way to 90&amp;nbsp;%&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;cooling: 0&amp;nbsp;%; the issue got a lot better with some additional cooling but I see a lot of people printing with no cooling &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;infill density: 20&amp;nbsp;%&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;retraction: on, 5&amp;nbsp;mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;retraction speed: 40&amp;nbsp;mm/s&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;first layer print speed: 30&amp;nbsp;mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;print speed: 50&amp;nbsp;mm/s&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;wall speed: 50&amp;nbsp;mm/s&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;infill speed: 50&amp;nbsp;mm/s&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let me know if you want to know more settings, but I think these capture most of it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you guys have any suggestion on things I can try that would be of great help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;UPDATE&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After playing with some settings these are the changes I think I'm settling on:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Flow: 105&amp;nbsp;%&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Coasting: On, 75&amp;nbsp;%&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Cooling: 60&amp;nbsp;%&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Retraction speed: 50&amp;nbsp;mm/s&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a picture of when the infill issue starts:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cVj8p.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cVj8p.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;NEW ISSUE&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now I'm getting a lot of stringing. Actually, I don't even know if it's stringing since I ran a test and came out basically perfect. Not a single stringing.&#xA;I'm getting a lot of material that get dragged when the nozzle moves to one place to another and a lot of material accumulates on the nozzle and slowly drips everywhere during the print.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JrXQk.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JrXQk.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt; &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XxHlr.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XxHlr.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;Here is a video I made (not sure if it helps at all)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tlIB1WW8z84&amp;amp;feature=youtu.be&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tlIB1WW8z84&amp;amp;feature=youtu.be&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think I'm getting close to have good prints but I really can't figure this out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14608" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-02-28T08:32:23.117" LastActivityDate="2019-02-28T08:32:23.117" Title="Infill failure when printing larger prints" Tags="|troubleshooting|creality-ender-3|infill|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8320" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8331" CreationDate="2019-02-22T03:30:26.623" Score="2" ViewCount="830" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am trying to make Marlin use the RX1 and TX1 pins that are in the EXP1 connection. I am connecting those pins to the TX, RX of an Arduino.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Configuration.h file has a SERIAL_PORT define, normally configured to be 0, but supposedly changeable. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What should be changed in Marlin to make it used the Serial1 port (if possible at all)?&lt;/strong&gt; I am using the latest code provided in  &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/Printrbot/Marlin&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Printrbot's Marlin repository&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the Configuration.h file:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;// SERIAL_PORT selects which serial port should be used for communication with the host.&#xA;// This allows the connection of wireless adapters (for instance) to non-default port pins.&#xA;// Serial port 0 is still used by the Arduino bootloader regardless of this setting.&#xA;#define SERIAL_PORT 0&#xA;//#define SERIAL_PORT 1&#xA;&#xA;// This determines the communication speed of the printer&#xA;// This determines the communication speed of the printer&#xA;#define BAUDRATE 250000&#xA;//#define BAUDRATE 9600&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6za30.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6za30.png&quot; alt=&quot;Printrboard&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14498" LastActivityDate="2019-02-24T01:58:38.527" Title="Printrboard Rev. D - RX1 and TX1 (second serial port) / Marlin" Tags="|marlin|firmware|electronics|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8321" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="358" CreationDate="2019-02-22T15:01:53.730" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have notes about printing Lego bricks here:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3424550&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3424550&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The upshot is, you want to align the wall thickness of your brick model edges to match an exact multiple of nozzle thickness of your printer. This is more important than using an STL file that exactly matches real Lego dimensions, because your slicer and printer are unlikely to be able to match those dimensions anyway. And because of that, you'll need other adjustments to the bricks to help them fit well with each other and with real Legos.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally, while it is well-understand that Lego bricks use a 1.6mm &quot;Lego Unit&quot; for their standard edge thickness, it's less-well understand how they use an additional .1mm &quot;Play Factor&quot; to help bricks to fit together better. Based on my tests, this play factor is removed from &lt;em&gt;both sides&lt;/em&gt; of an edge, such that a standard Lego edge wall should be 1.4mm thick. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Put this all together, and I've found you want to aim for 1.2mm edges when using a .4mm nozzle, and 1.5mm edges when using .5mm nozzle. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively, a .4mm nozzle can do real 1.4mm Lego edges by only using 1 line for the outer walls, and filling in the remaining .6mm of thickness. Personally, I &lt;em&gt;never&lt;/em&gt; want to use just 1 line for a wall, and 1.5x the nozzle diameter is also the bare minimum I'd trust for filling in to work well, making this plan a challenge, too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The thingiverse piece I linked to is actually a customizable brick &lt;em&gt;generator&lt;/em&gt;, that will let you make fine adjustments and help you create brick STL models based on your printer, your slicer and settings, and your material, that will print well and fit with other bricks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12562" LastEditorUserId="12562" LastEditDate="2019-02-22T15:12:13.973" LastActivityDate="2019-02-22T15:12:13.973" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8322" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-02-22T15:38:27.020" Score="2" ViewCount="2204" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hope someone might have a view on where to go with this. My prints were coming out pretty good, but since installing a BL Touch to the printer I've been unable to get consistent first layer adhesion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Printer: Tevo Tarantula &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Firmware: Jim Brown Marlin&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Settings:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Speed: initial layer 30&amp;nbsp;mm/s others 60&amp;nbsp;mm/s  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Layer height: tried everything from 0.1 to 0.3&amp;nbsp;mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Temperatures&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Nozzle temperature: 204&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C (stock hot end and nozzle)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bed temperature: 60&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Printing Sunlu PLA+ filament onto Printbrite on the stock bed using bilinear Leveling (tried both 3 points and 5)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Z homes with the probe in the centre of the bed and the G29 command takes the readings ok.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've configured Z offset so that you can barely move a sheet of paper between the bed and nozzle when you send G1 Z0. But it still looks like the nozzle is too far away from the bed when printing first layer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've managed to get a 20&amp;nbsp;mm calibration cube out of it, but that is inconsistent (the two cubes in the pictures were printed one after the other with no changes).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anything bigger than that doesn't stick at the corners and ends up as a ball of spaghetti. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/54CG6.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/54CG6.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14613" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-01-14T13:17:11.873" LastActivityDate="2020-01-17T13:48:38.620" Title="How can I fix First Layer Adhesion with BL Touch - Tevo Tarantula" Tags="|marlin|bltouch|tevo-tarantula|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8323" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-02-22T17:25:40.657" Score="1" ViewCount="50" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an RF100 v.1 printer with stock software (again) onboard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After my attempt of changing firmware, the X-axis motor decided to stray printhead away out of the borders of the printer and somehow motor wires broke out of the adapter. &#xA;I fixed the wires and reverted to stock firmware, though now whenever I auto-home or press &quot;Home&quot; button on Ultimaker Cura, printhead goes wild top and left reaching borders and starts buzzing like crazy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;current condition:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Head is TOP LEFT with X=100 and Y=100 on the table being under head Z=0;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;screenshot&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even with these beautiful tiny settings, I cannot print anything because printhead goes too far TOP RIGHT by itself.&#xA;Ideas?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14615" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-02-23T22:21:49.537" LastActivityDate="2019-02-23T22:21:49.537" Title="RF100 Settings after reinstalling firmware" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|firmware|homing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8324" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8318" CreationDate="2019-02-22T21:16:12.280" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It might be the case that the resin separated into layers in the tray. Try mixing the resin well in its container. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have also heard it can help to filter the resin prior to mixing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14618" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2019-02-25T18:31:47.917" LastActivityDate="2019-02-25T18:31:47.917" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8325" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8326" CreationDate="2019-02-22T22:19:48.703" Score="2" ViewCount="111" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am looking for a 3.3&amp;nbsp;V power source in the Printrboard Rev. D pins. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think there should be one somewhere... I do not know how to read the schematics that well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, I am going to connect an HC-06, which draws 45&amp;nbsp;mA or less during operation. So, I need to know if it safe to get the power from the 3.3&amp;nbsp;V rail (if I find it).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, the questions are: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Which one is the 3.3&amp;nbsp;V pin? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;And how much current can I draw from it?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BIb3p.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BIb3p.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XkjmG.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XkjmG.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14498" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-02-22T23:10:40.107" LastActivityDate="2019-02-22T23:10:40.107" Title="Printrboard Rev. D. 3.3 V source" Tags="|electronics|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8326" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8325" CreationDate="2019-02-22T22:49:08.373" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;On the schematic, the 3.3v is marked as &quot;U7&quot; and pointed out here:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/j69dh.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/j69dh.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The 3.3v is marked as pin #2. You can find the three pints from U7 here on the board (blue circle):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sUykU.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sUykU.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not exactly sure if the pins are accessed from the other side of the board, or even if they are marked at all on there. You can always check them with a multimeter to see what their output is. More than likely the bottom single pin is the ground and the top two are one or the other (5v &amp;amp; 3.3v). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as amperage draw, I'm thinking 45mA is not a lot of draw, but I'm not an expert. I'd think it &lt;em&gt;should&lt;/em&gt; be able to handle it, but again, I really don't know. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11242" LastActivityDate="2019-02-22T22:49:08.373" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8327" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-02-23T10:05:14.200" Score="4" ViewCount="7641" Body="&lt;p&gt;So according to E3D customer service, the V6 is designed to have higher back pressure than the MK8. This leads to underextrusion with PLA and all kinds of problems unless you increase the temp by 30&amp;nbsp;-&amp;nbsp;50&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C so it will heat the filament faster and reduce the back pressure. They recommended getting a geared extruder such as the titan when I contacted them. Why none of this is mentioned on the V6 product page I have no idea, but I am not about to spend the cost of the V6 again on an E3D extruder unless it is truly the only option. I would imagine one could just replace the stock extruder motor with higher torque.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know the max amperage motor you can replace the stock extruder motor with?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Is a 2&amp;nbsp;A NEMA 17 too much?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Will a 2&amp;nbsp;A stepper give any more torque than the stock one (I know it is rated at a higher oz-in but does that actually translate to more torque)?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Finally, where are the specs for the Ender 3 stepper drivers listed?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13829" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-02-23T22:25:35.603" LastActivityDate="2021-04-18T10:51:49.797" Title="Upgrading to higher torque extruder motor creality ender3" Tags="|creality-ender-3|motor|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8328" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8329" CreationDate="2019-02-23T17:25:40.430" Score="2" ViewCount="893" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here is an extreme example of notches caused by the printer. They go along all sides but are the strongest on the Y faces. They also happen quite randomly sometimes they are tiny sometimes they are strong. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VQ7Sr.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VQ7Sr.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have tightened the belts already and while that reduced the ghosting on the X face a lot, it did nothing on the Y and actually never helped with the notches. This test cube has notches and ripples too but not that strong (the skirting on the bottom of that cube is my fault I set the bed level a little too low).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZJDG4.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZJDG4.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/968jC.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/968jC.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All models have been sliced with Ultimaker Cura and printed on an Anet A8. Flow = 110&amp;nbsp;%, layer height of 0.1&amp;nbsp;mm for the first example and 0.2&amp;nbsp;mm for the cube, printing temperature = 195&amp;nbsp;°C, no change on jerking and acceleration from default settings. Cube size = 20x20x20&amp;nbsp;mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The printer has frame support &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1672959&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1672959&lt;/a&gt; but no other upgrades yet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5359" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-02-23T22:13:10.047" LastActivityDate="2019-02-25T14:34:43.463" Title="Why does my printer create notches on the Y surface?" Tags="|print-quality|anet-a8|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8329" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8328" CreationDate="2019-02-23T17:32:54.247" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I see two problems with your printer: your filament seems to overheat in some areas, and you overextrude a little. My suspicion is, that your heating behavior is not well tuned and it overshoots the target temperature, leading to an overcooked filament, then the temperature drops below the temperature you need, leading to a wavy pattern and brown lines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;fixing&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suggest running a PID-tune cycle to get better heating behavior and then recalibrating the printer's extruder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:29:41.667" LastActivityDate="2019-02-25T14:34:43.463" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8330" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8323" CreationDate="2019-02-23T18:06:39.190" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Everything was fixed by thorough googling and flipping the whole wire-set of the motor. It started to twirl in a right direction.&#xA;Sorry for the time&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14615" LastActivityDate="2019-02-23T18:06:39.190" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8331" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8320" CreationDate="2019-02-24T01:58:38.527" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was able to resolve this issue: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I moved to Marlin 1.1.9 (the final release of the 1.1.x versions).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I made a &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/josea/Marlin/tree/josea-printrbot&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;fork&lt;/a&gt;, for those who would like to see the changes. Also summarized below.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The RX1 and TX1 pins are well identified in the question. I connected those directly to the HC-06 bluetooth module (using a voltage divider for the RX pin in the bluetooth, as it is a 3.3 V logic module).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Changes in code:&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Marlin/Conditionals.LCD.h: commented out: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;// this line conflicted with the bluetooth/serial1 options&#xA;// #define USE_MARLINSERIAL !(defined(__AVR__) &amp;amp;&amp;amp; defined(USBCON))&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rest are the configuration options already provided by Marlin in Marlin.Configuration.h: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;define SERIAL_PORT 1&#xA;define BAUDRATE 115200  // Note: this baudrate MUST match the one set in the bluetooth module. That's done using the AT commands. There is plenty of information on how to do that. &#xA;define BLUETOOTH&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a result of these changes I am able to print with my PrintrBot Simple 2014 (Printrboard Rev. D) with Bluetooth over a distance of ~3.5mts, behind a wall. I haven't tested it exhaustely, but it does print.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14498" LastActivityDate="2019-02-24T01:58:38.527" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8333" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8055" CreationDate="2019-02-24T17:03:28.537" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;To have a very smooth finish on top layer, I usually act on these settings :&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;in Print Settings :&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Layers &amp;amp; Perimeters :&#xA;  Horizontal shells : 3 / 3&#xA;&#xA;Infill:&#xA;  Infill, Top/bottom fill patterns : Archimedean Chords ;&#xA;&#xA;Speed:&#xA;  .for print moves :&#xA;   Top solid infill : 20  (mm/s)&#xA;&#xA;Advanced:&#xA;  Extrusion width, Top solid infill : 0.2 (mm)&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;= This gives very slow movement in a circular way, the small extrusion creates an ironing effect, thus very nice finish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Considering your slicer behavior, have you tried changing number of top shelves &amp;amp; Infill type ? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14635" LastEditorUserId="14635" LastEditDate="2019-02-26T02:51:52.147" LastActivityDate="2019-02-26T02:51:52.147" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8334" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8337" CreationDate="2019-02-24T18:00:25.323" Score="3" ViewCount="449" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an issue with my Anet A8 printer and how it interlocks with Ultimaker Cura. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to print this file named &lt;code&gt;Loki_hörner_v2.stl&lt;/code&gt;and Cura slices it fine, but when it comes to printing all the preheat happens, but then it stops, not going on at all. What might be wrong here?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9575" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-02-25T17:43:53.883" LastActivityDate="2019-02-25T17:43:53.883" Title="Anet A8 stops printing" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|anet-a8|troubleshooting|print-failure|bug|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8335" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8328" CreationDate="2019-02-24T19:47:02.597" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I noticed that thermistors provided with Chinese kits are not up to specs. Do yourself a favor and go to mouser or digikey and order a proper thermistor that is rated for the temperature range in question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14637" LastActivityDate="2019-02-24T19:47:02.597" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8336" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8334" CreationDate="2019-02-24T20:16:47.207" Score="4" Body="&lt;h3&gt;Avoid naming &lt;code&gt;.gcode&lt;/code&gt; files with non-ASCII characters&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;em&gt;(this includes &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Extended_ASCII&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;EASCII&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/em&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know of no firmware on a printer that can handle files that have characters not present in the set of 95 non-control &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.w3schools.com/charsets/ref_html_ascii.asp&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;American Standard Code for Information Interchange characters&lt;/a&gt; by default. Marlin, for example, can't process the characters &lt;code&gt;ä&lt;/code&gt; &lt;code&gt;ö&lt;/code&gt; &lt;code&gt;ü&lt;/code&gt; &amp;amp; &lt;code&gt;€&lt;/code&gt; as these all are missing in the ASCII.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Avoid having more than one &lt;code&gt;.&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Nowadays the &lt;code&gt;.&lt;/code&gt; is no longer a fully reserved character in file names, so a file can be named &lt;code&gt;0.5mm Gauge Block.stl&lt;/code&gt; on Windows without problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ultimaker Cura will &lt;strong&gt;cut&lt;/strong&gt; the name at the &lt;code&gt;.&lt;/code&gt; before the extension when generating the &lt;code&gt;.gcode&lt;/code&gt;. This is mainly done to prevent tons of errors that could crop up in firmware that might not be able to deal with it. Remember that this behavior can lead to overwriting files - our &lt;code&gt;0.5mm Gauge Block.stl&lt;/code&gt; would generate &lt;code&gt;0.gcode&lt;/code&gt;, as would &lt;code&gt;0.1.5 Penholder.stl&lt;/code&gt; (that follows a version naming convention).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Avoid reserved characters&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also note that some characters are reserved in file naming and will lead to other errors (mainly when trying to create the files in the first place), including, but not limited to, &lt;code&gt;/&lt;/code&gt; &lt;code&gt;\&lt;/code&gt; &lt;code&gt;:&lt;/code&gt; &lt;code&gt;?&lt;/code&gt; &lt;code&gt;*&lt;/code&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:29:41.667" LastActivityDate="2019-02-25T15:18:59.797" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8337" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8334" CreationDate="2019-02-24T21:13:49.370" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Special characters like &lt;code&gt;Ä&lt;/code&gt; &lt;code&gt;Ö&lt;/code&gt; or &lt;code&gt;Ü&lt;/code&gt; in the stl-filename resulted in Ultimaker Cura creating a comment of the filename in the g-code that read like &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;;MESH:Loki_hörner_v2.stl&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This apparently could not be parsed by the Anet A8, leading to an error and halt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9575" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2019-02-25T15:20:19.893" LastActivityDate="2019-02-25T15:20:19.893" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8339" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8328" CreationDate="2019-02-25T05:43:31.837" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;While you may very well be having temperature issues, I see two other issues:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, I think the &quot;notches&quot; are z-wobble. Z-wobble is often caused by bent z-axis threaded rods.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a very similar Geeetech I3 printer. A lot of my z-wobble was cleaned up by removing the threaded rods and making them more straight. You can find videos to help you do that, just search for &quot;threaded rod straightening&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other thing I did was decouple the nut on the threaded rod from the x-carriage assembly, allowing it to float in the X-Y plane as it pushes the x-carriage up. The x-carriage ought to be guided up by the smooth rods/bearings. Unfortunately, if the nut is fixed to the x-carriage, the bent threaded rods are strong enough to over-power the smooth rods/bearings and make the whole assembly wobble.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other problem I see is that your printer seems to be extruding too much filament. That is likely causing the little pyramid flair at the base of your print. If you tell the printer to extrude 100mm, it ought to extrude 100mm, not 110mm. Again, a search for &quot;extruder calibration&quot; will tell you how to do it. For me it involved extruding, measuring, a bit of math, adjusting some variables in Marlin, compiling and uploading the with Arduino IDE. Repeat until 100mm extrudes 100mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14641" LastActivityDate="2019-02-25T05:43:31.837" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8341" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8327" CreationDate="2019-02-25T15:48:08.877" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;So the 'obvious' answer to this problem is to run a slower print speed, so it isn't so much as a case of information being missing, as there being a non-trivial trade off between speed, quality and cost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using the E3D products as examples, a double length NEMA17 can indeed deliver twice the kg×cm as a standard one, and a slimline a little less. E3D suggest that 'standard' A4988 drivers are capable of supplying 2A, but this is right at the limit of their performance (and you would certainly want to consider heatskinking/forced cooling).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;E3D also list a standard stepper motor with a 5.18:1 reduction gearbox. This should give a good 4x increase in driven torque, and if you can find just the gearbox, that might be the cheapest option. You don't need such a high reduction, but this is limited by the physical size available.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the absence of any better specs, a physically similar motor &lt;em&gt;might&lt;/em&gt; be a good reference. You can check this by comparing various parts from different manufacturers. Regardless of the current capacity, more torque generally means a larger sized part.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4927" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-11-19T08:31:58.000" LastActivityDate="2020-11-19T08:31:58.000" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8342" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3185" CreationDate="2019-02-25T19:28:43.783" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had this issue and it turned out to be the extruder cog rubbing on the inside of the hole in the heatsink, causing the stepper to slip. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14646" LastActivityDate="2019-02-25T19:28:43.783" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8343" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-02-25T22:08:24.473" Score="5" ViewCount="7116" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have only just set up my Anet A6 today. I am trying to print a calibration box, but the print is moving around the bed while trying to print. Any ideas how to fix this? The documentation is very vague.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically I am very new to 3D printing. I purchased an Anet A6 and have set it up stock. I am trying to just print the box directly from the demo models on the SD card. I'm using the standard filament that comes with the printer. I'm not sure what type it is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All settings are default.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14649" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2019-08-31T08:21:05.570" LastActivityDate="2019-08-31T08:21:05.570" Title="Filament moving around and not sticking to bed" Tags="|troubleshooting|adhesion|anet-a6|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8344" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8343" CreationDate="2019-02-25T22:29:42.067" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the printed material moves with the nozzle, you might have several problems at hand, e.g.:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;adhesion, &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;nozzle to bed distance and &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;overall level.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Nozzle to bed distance needs to be the thickness of a plain A4 or Letter paper. This needs to be at the same distance (when pulling the sheet of paper you need to feel a little drag) at the complete area of the bed. This is sometimes difficult as not all beds are perfectly flat from itself. Finally, you need to pull some tricks out of your sleeve to get the filament to adhere to the bed. Many example can be found, popular ones are using blue tape, glass bed, glue stick, PVA based spray (e.g. strong hairspray or dedicated spray cans like 3DLAC or Dimafix, etc.), or a combination of these. You just need to experiment some more what works best for you, but it is good to start with a correctly levelled bed with the proper nozzle gap. Sometimes, increasing the bed and filament temperature with 5&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C for the first layer also helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-02-26T00:30:51.303" LastActivityDate="2019-02-26T00:30:51.303" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8345" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8343" CreationDate="2019-02-26T03:41:24.587" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Also check your speed settings. &#xA;1st layer should always be printed 50% of the normal speed, if not less. (my choice is 20mm/s)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your overall printing speed is really fast, collision with already printed lines may be the issue. You can try either slow down movement/print or avoid/retract over peripherals. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any hairspray containing &lt;strong&gt;neodecanoate copolymer&lt;/strong&gt; is a great adhesion, and very cheap :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14635" LastActivityDate="2019-02-26T03:41:24.587" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8347" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8268" CreationDate="2019-02-26T12:32:41.240" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since the bed was warm when you connected to 12 V that means the bed and the wiring are good. It sounds like your multimeter is not too accurate, with a reading of 0.5 Ω (or you measured accidentally some other circuit), but no worries. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since both boards do not power the bed, it seems like it could be a firmware setting. To help with that, a look at your config file, and possibly the &lt;code&gt;pins_ramps.h&lt;/code&gt; file can help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a first check, your &lt;code&gt;mks_gen_L.h&lt;/code&gt; file should look like this;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;    #if HOTENDS &amp;gt; 2 || E_STEPPERS &amp;gt; 2&#xA;  #error &quot;MKS GEN L supports up to 2 hotends / E-steppers. Comment out this line to continue.&quot;&#xA;#endif&#xA;&#xA;#define BOARD_NAME &quot;MKS GEN L&quot;&#xA;&#xA;//&#xA;// Heaters / Fans&#xA;//&#xA;// Power outputs EFBF or EFBE&#xA;#define MOSFET_D_PIN 7&#xA;&#xA;//&#xA;// CS Pins wired to avoid conflict with the LCD&#xA;// See https://www.thingiverse.com/asset:66604&#xA;//&#xA;&#xA;#ifndef X_CS_PIN&#xA;  #define X_CS_PIN 59&#xA;#endif&#xA;&#xA;#ifndef Y_CS_PIN&#xA;  #define Y_CS_PIN 63&#xA;#endif&#xA;&#xA;#include &quot;pins_RAMPS.h&quot;&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now all you need to confirm is that your bed is hooked to D7.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14656" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2019-02-26T14:11:11.113" LastActivityDate="2019-02-26T14:11:11.113" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8348" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6172" CreationDate="2019-02-26T15:02:26.563" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are 3 options to reduce ghosting working on different methods.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Basics of motion physics&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the machine changes movement direction, it does so with a very short time difference delay between the head and the frame, inducing vibration. Let's assume the head makes just movements back and force around a point &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$x_0$&lt;/span&gt; in the mid of the bed with an amplitude of 1. So the positional curve of the print head is &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$x_h=x_0+sin(\omega t)$&lt;/span&gt;. The &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.wolframalpha.com/input/?i=d%C2%B2%2Fdt%C2%B2%20(x_0%2Bsin(%5Comega%20t))&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;second derivate&lt;/a&gt; of this is the acceleration &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$\frac {d^2} {dt^2}{x_h}=-\omega^2 sin(\omega t)$&lt;/span&gt;. The frame though lacks behind, it has a phase shift to this. It's movement is &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$x_f=x_0+sin(\omega t +\tau)$&lt;/span&gt;, so its acceleration is &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$\frac {d^2} {dt^2}{x_f}=-\omega^2 sin(\omega t +\tau)$&lt;/span&gt;. The factor &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$\tau$&lt;/span&gt; is determined how the printhead is mounted (friction), the weight of the frame (it's inertia) and how stiff it is. It might change depending on the height due to the construction of the frame (changing stiffness).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We'll assume a 1-dimensional printer as it is easier to model, but in praxis, we'd have all three axis to look at to model the printer in its entirety.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Method one: less friction&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One way to lessen the factor &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$\tau$&lt;/span&gt; is to reduce the ability to transfer the motion energy between the print head and the frame. This means to &lt;strong&gt;reduce friction&lt;/strong&gt; between the frame and the printhead. So better bearings are one way to do this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Method two: lighter head/heavier frame&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another factor is the inertia differential. If the head has less kinetic energy and/or the frame higher inertia, this reduces the ghosting as with less energy available, the phase shift &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$\tau$&lt;/span&gt; gets reduced. This is where bolting down the printer acts to some degree: the mass of the printer becomes the mas of the printer plus the part it is bolted to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is where a super lightweight head on lightweight carbon fiber tube rails with Bowden setup (Hypercube design) shines: by having a super low mass, the energy transfer is hindered.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Method three: Stiffening the frame&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The frame has a certain frequency it wants to swing at. To shift this, one can add stiffening rods or different mounting, which also increases the weight. This shifts &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$\tau$&lt;/span&gt; down some.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Method four: Tuning &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$\tau$&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just adding mass to the printer and from the printhead or stiffening the machine has its limits. There is however a way to isolate the machine from other systems: put it on spring dampeners. As long as these dampeners are not in resonance to the frame's resonance, the machine itself can be tuned in itself. At this point comes in what you noticed when you put the machine on rubber mats: if the machine has a &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$sin(\tau)\to 0$&lt;/span&gt;, then the factor &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$\tau$&lt;/span&gt; suddenly gets only little effect on the calculation. By the way, the symmetry makes it easy for us, creating boundries: &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$\tau \in \{0,2\pi\}$&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Best Practice?&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is often hard to find the best way through calculations alone. Even Engineers use trial and error to look for where to add mass (using for exampele clay and weights) and look at complex measurements how much mass they need to reduce where to change the ring of the machine so the multiple factors in &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$\tau$&lt;/span&gt; cancel each other out or get the resonance frequency where they want it to be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For home use, it is often the best to fix it as easy as possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:29:41.667" LastActivityDate="2019-02-26T15:16:32.743" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8349" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6965" CreationDate="2019-02-26T15:45:07.660" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'll give a short answer here: It's the volume. The the nozzle redistributes the volume of the plastic into a different shape. i.e. the nozzle is turning a cylinder of 0.4&amp;nbsp;mm diameter into a rectangle of the same volume, which a function of the layer height / volume = line width.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12857" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-08-09T04:53:46.193" LastActivityDate="2019-08-09T04:53:46.193" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8350" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8361" CreationDate="2019-02-26T18:14:11.010" Score="3" ViewCount="185" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm currently trying to implement a data collector on my Replicator+ by utilizing JSON-RPC. Is there an &lt;strong&gt;official&lt;/strong&gt; reference for this? MakerBot used to host a &lt;a href=&quot;http://wiki.makerbot.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;wiki site&lt;/a&gt;, but that seems to be gone for their &quot;troubleshooting&quot; pages.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="98" LastActivityDate="2019-02-27T22:26:20.050" Title="MakerBot JSON-RPC Command List" Tags="|makerbot|replicator+|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8351" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8530" CreationDate="2019-02-26T18:43:25.330" Score="4" ViewCount="1921" Body="&lt;p&gt;Issue: My Ender 3 is creating distorted prints with layer separation and deformations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yYDwP.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Example Here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can anyone point me in the right direction?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Setup:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ender 3&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.th3dstudio.com/ezabl-kit/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;TH3D EZABL Auto Bed Leveling&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1.75 mm ABS filament (245 °C)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Heated Bed (100 °C)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sliced in Ultimaker Cura (with 1.75 mm filament diameter and 0.2 mm layer height)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I have tried:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tightening Z axis screw&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tightening Y axis belt&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tightening X axis belt&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Switching to a different spool of ABS&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Printing a temperature tower (same problem across different temperatures)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Turning off the auto bed leveling.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Update:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I've measured the temperature of the hot end, it is reading around 205°C +- 20°C&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;As per suggestion from the TH3D support team, I tuned the PID of my hot end. Unfortunately the results did not turn out much better (&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZdRuP.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;1&lt;/a&gt;,&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/f8HDl.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;2&lt;/a&gt;) and the support technician is suggesting(a long with many people from the comments) that I should try to replace the thermistor. As per suggestion from @Trish, I measured the impedence of the thermistor and it does seem to be somewhat off from stock (118kΩ vs &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.th3dstudio.com/product/3-pack-100k-thermistor-cr-10-tornado-ender-2-and-most-3d-printers/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;100kΩ&lt;/a&gt;). Will update again once the replacement arrives.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;As requested, here are some more photos &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PiM2p.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;front&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nq1aj.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;back&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/J7apd.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;left side&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9LoUN.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;right side&lt;/a&gt;. The cube isn't hollowed out just to save material while I calibrate the dimensions.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I printed the same cube out, rotated 90 degrees. I got similar results though: &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TWlS7.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;front&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IsADD.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;back&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TSaCy.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;left side&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Rz5ZY.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;right side&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Swapping the nozzle out solved the issue&lt;/strong&gt;! Thanks for the help everyone!&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14562" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2020-07-15T18:26:36.690" LastActivityDate="2020-07-15T18:26:36.690" Title="Ender 3 Distorted Calibration Cube" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|troubleshooting|creality-ender-3|bed-leveling|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="30" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8352" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8350" CreationDate="2019-02-26T19:56:23.243" Score="1" Body="&lt;h2&gt;The Mystery of Makerbot-Wiki&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to the Wayback machine, the wiki.makerbot.com went offline on &lt;a href=&quot;https://web.archive.org/web/20121126084944/http://wiki.makerbot.com:80/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;31st December 2012&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Over the past three amazing years, MakerBot owners and enthusiasts around the world have shared knowledge with us and with each other. As we welcome thousands more MakerBot owners and users into the MakerBot family, we want to make sure that everyone always has the best information regarding our company and products, and that it's easily accessible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Here’s one thing we're doing to help: on December 31, as we close out the year, we will also turn off the lights at wiki.makerbot.com.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The MakerBot wiki has served us well, but lately we've seen an increase in spam and a decline in community activity. Instead of continuing to maintain two separate sites, we're going to consolidate them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;What that means is that, as of December 31st, the MakerBot wiki will no longer be available at this address. An archived version of the wiki as it stands today will be available at &lt;a href=&quot;http://makerbot.com/support/archive&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://makerbot.com/support/archive&lt;/a&gt; and more former wiki content will be available at &lt;a href=&quot;http://makerbot.com/support&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://makerbot.com/support&lt;/a&gt;, which already hosts PDFs of some of the most useful Thing-O-Matic and Cupcake documentation. You may see some short periods of downtime as we finish moving this content.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;An archive of forum discussions will be available, but users seeking discussion with the incredibly knowledgable MakerBot community should head over to the &lt;a href=&quot;https://groups.google.com/forum/#!forum/makerbot&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;MakerBot Operators Google Group&lt;/a&gt;. Requests for help and questions about MakerBot products should, as always, be sent to mailto:support@makerbot.com.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Thanks for your contributions over the past few years to the MakerBot wiki. We hope you'll all continue to share your expertise with us and other MakerBot users for many years to come.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://web.archive.org/web/20121114075819/http://wiki.makerbot.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Before that&lt;/a&gt;, the makerbot wiki did tell that the Documentations had been moved:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Note&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  This wiki is intended for historical MakerBot documentation and community-supported projects. The new home for MakerBot documentation is &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.makerbot.com/docs/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.makerbot.com/docs/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;JSON-RPC&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a late 2013/early 2014 &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/makerbot/jsonrpc&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;github&lt;/a&gt; that seems to work on the JSON-RPC and which might help - and still showed &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/makerbot/jsonrpc/graphs/contributors&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;some activity&lt;/a&gt; past the lockup of the wiki.makerbot.com. It is only very poorly documented. The earliest activity was in 2012 with the main bulk in 2013.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The JSON project predates the start of work on the &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/gryphius/makerbot-gen5-api/graphs/contributors&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;makerbot-gen5-api&lt;/a&gt; in 2014. This might mean that it might be documented there to some degree, But it might also be present in the generation 4 API.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2019-02-26T20:06:13.473" LastActivityDate="2019-02-26T20:06:13.473" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8353" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8354" CreationDate="2019-02-26T20:07:07.140" Score="1" ViewCount="618" Body="&lt;p&gt;I currently have a model in fusion 360 of cylinders with the largest being 40&quot; diameter in a specific pattern as seen below. My printer is a Ender-3x with the build plate dimensions of 8.7&quot; x 8.7&quot; x 9.8&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I need to break this model into 5 pieces of exactly equivalent length so I can print same piece 5 times to equal a full cylinder &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vp61T.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vp61T.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14660" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2019-02-27T14:06:28.493" LastActivityDate="2019-02-27T14:06:28.493" Title="how to split a 40&quot; model into 5 parts to print seperate" Tags="|3d-models|stl|fusion360|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8354" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8353" CreationDate="2019-02-26T20:14:52.073" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You've got several options:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Generate full-size STL, cut via software later&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you just have an STL, you can use software such as Meshmixer to modify it. In this case, a plain &lt;code&gt;plane cut&lt;/code&gt; would suffice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Modifiy the design file&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A better way is to go into the design file (in your case fusion) and modify it there. In your case, it's rather easy:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;add a construction plane&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;choose the right constraints, e.g. an angle to the XZ plane or a distance to the XY plane&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;choose the model&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;code&gt;Edit &amp;gt; split model&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;choose the construction plane you made&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;rinse and repeat&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to get rid of parts that became superfluous after this, use the &lt;code&gt;remove&lt;/code&gt; option, not the &lt;code&gt;delete&lt;/code&gt; option, as the later tries to make sure that the object never was made in the workflow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2019-02-26T22:32:17.993" LastActivityDate="2019-02-26T22:32:17.993" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8355" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-02-26T22:45:38.927" Score="1" ViewCount="374" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an FDM 3d printer that used to run on RAMPS 1.4. After accidentally destroyed that board, I bought a &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B07M6Z6DWC&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;1.6 board&lt;/a&gt; to replace it. I have it connected to a &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B01LATMSGS&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;12&amp;nbsp;V 30&amp;nbsp;A power supply&lt;/a&gt;, but when I turn on the power, the power indicator LED on the supply briefly lights up and then dies. A multimeter reading between the power terminals gives 0&amp;nbsp;V. When I disconnect the RAMPS board from the supply, the supply runs fine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This suggests to me that there is a short somewhere, but I am not confident in that conclusion. How do I check the integrity of my board? Is there a way that I can unit test any of the components?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Notes&lt;/em&gt;: The internet has &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p649C7m61qA&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;some people&lt;/a&gt; talking about quality issues with the 1.6, like bridging and cold solder joints, which I have checked for; I cannot see anything wrong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I currently have all of the steppers, limit switches, and thermistors connected. I have the stepper drivers installed, each with all 3 micro-stepping jumpers installed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7054" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-02-26T23:00:36.310" LastActivityDate="2019-02-26T23:00:36.310" Title="Possible short in a RAMPS 1.6 board" Tags="|electronics|troubleshooting|power-supply|ramps-1.6|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8358" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-02-27T14:05:41.790" Score="1" ViewCount="291" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have one of these inductive sensors marked as &lt;code&gt;PL-08N&lt;/code&gt; which should work within a &lt;code&gt;4-30 VDC&lt;/code&gt; range and trigger at 8&amp;nbsp;mm or less. It's clearly a knockoff, meaning it has no manufacturer marking and all info is printed on a sticker.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/agBGz.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/agBGz.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm testing it's functionality so I tried to wire &lt;code&gt;12 V&lt;/code&gt; to &lt;em&gt;brown&lt;/em&gt;, &lt;code&gt;GND&lt;/code&gt; to &lt;em&gt;blue&lt;/em&gt; and I'm probing the &lt;em&gt;black&lt;/em&gt; wire, but I'm experiencing a weird behaviour: the sensor properly triggers, but it doesn't recover, meaning the LED won't turn off moving the sensor away from the plate and the black wire doesn't go back to &lt;code&gt;0 V&lt;/code&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What am I missing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;UPDATE&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looking for solutions I tried to run the device at &lt;code&gt;5 V&lt;/code&gt; (still within the declared range) expecting to have a very low sensitivity, just to discover:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;it activates at about 8 mm from the print bed (4 mm from my borosilicate glass)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;it properly recovers immediately after I move it away&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I thought those devices had increased sensitivity with greater voltages...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13989" LastEditorUserId="13989" LastEditDate="2019-02-27T15:02:24.147" LastActivityDate="2019-02-27T15:02:24.147" Title="PL-08N inductive sensor not turning off" Tags="|bed-leveling|inductive-sensor|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8359" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8263" CreationDate="2019-02-27T19:33:44.080" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;So, contrary to what people were saying, my problem came from my spring that controlled filament flow. There was too much tension and it caused motor skipping. I did get rid of the overlap with the blue tape, but otherwise I had to clamp down my spring and that fixed the issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14524" LastActivityDate="2019-02-27T19:33:44.080" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8360" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8319" CreationDate="2019-02-27T20:14:36.993" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have seen this a lot with people I have helped out in the past. sally infill  or the lack of and weakness in the print is due to an extrusion issue. it looks like you are under extruding. this is why you do not see this in smaller prints. In the larger print you are giving the print head enough time to screw up. You need to look at the tension of the filament on the extruder to make sure it isn't skipping. You also need to do a estep calibration on the extruder. I usually extrude 100mm of filament and measure it to see if it is short. if it is short then it is under extruding and doing a larger print and printing a larger area will reveal short comings in extruder infill. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14671" LastActivityDate="2019-02-27T20:14:36.993" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8361" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8350" CreationDate="2019-02-27T20:14:59.753" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It took some digging, but I was able to start scripting a wrapper in C# for the RPC commands.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/TrueAnalyticsSolutions/MakerBotAgentAdapterCore#api&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;C# Wrapper&lt;/a&gt; (MTConnect Implementation)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Unofficial &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/TrueAnalyticsSolutions/MakerBotAgentAdapterCore/wiki/JSON-RPC&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;JSON-RPC Reference&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I still don't understand what every method does to the machine or necessarily what the results are, so a number of the methods are marked as obsolete until I can test them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="98" LastEditorUserId="98" LastEditDate="2019-02-27T22:26:20.050" LastActivityDate="2019-02-27T22:26:20.050" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8362" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8271" CreationDate="2019-02-27T20:17:26.863" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;This sounds like the firmware setting for your BLtouch is not set up properly. Look at the line in Config H where it deploys the BLtouch. make sure nothing is commented out and that the 2nd deploy is shown. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14671" LastActivityDate="2019-02-27T20:17:26.863" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8363" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8263" CreationDate="2019-02-27T20:20:22.723" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would get rid of the blue tape and go with glass and hairspray. Glass gives you more of a flat surface. You are printing with the aluminum build plate which over time c&#xA;an warp. The glass with give you a much flatter and level surface to print om. Blue Tape is actually not a great surface to print on. Hairspray using a chemical compound that actually is related to a PLA makeup. This compound in Aquanet Hairspray will bond to the PLA and release when cold. Using both the glass and hairspray will give you and even build plate and a clean smooth surface that it will stick to better than blue tape. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14671" LastEditorUserId="14671" LastEditDate="2019-03-04T19:59:07.037" LastActivityDate="2019-03-04T19:59:07.037" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8364" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8296" CreationDate="2019-02-27T20:22:40.557" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;PETG does this. PETG is like glue when soft this is why when you level the bed you have to add an additional 0.1&amp;nbsp;mm distance for PETG. PETG should not be as close as PLA, but futher away. It will stick to the hotend so preferably change the hotend from brass to a nickle plated nozzle (e.g. Micro Swiss, PETG does not stick to that nozzle at all).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14671" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-02-27T22:08:03.790" LastActivityDate="2019-02-27T22:08:03.790" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8367" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-02-28T12:26:12.763" Score="1" ViewCount="131" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just recently changed out the OEM Build Plate adhesive pad with a PEI Sheet. Prior to doing this work, the build plate moved back and forth just fine along the Y Axis (front to back). The Build plate could be moved manually until it hit the front and back frame of the printer. The build plate also hit the Y Axis Endstop just fine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After doing the work to replace the PEI plate....I turned on the printer and homed it and when it attempted to automatically slide the build plate back to the end stop it started shaking violently as the plate moved overtop of the end stop switch without touching it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The plate also sails overtop of the front and back frames of the printer. I have no idea what happened. Any suggestions?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14678" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-10-28T10:06:48.797" LastActivityDate="2019-10-28T10:06:48.797" Title="MonoPrice Maker Select V2 Build Plate Movement issue" Tags="|y-axis|monoprice-maker-select|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8368" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-02-28T14:08:01.427" Score="3" ViewCount="138" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I know there have been several clicking Extruder threads but have not found any solutions to the one I am having.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Background:&#xA;I have a custom Prusa like 3d printer fitted with an MKS board (v1.5) and an MK3 Extruder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The issue:&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;While i can extrude fine when ordering some extrusion, as soon as i start to print an object the extruder just starts &quot;clicking&quot;.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I have tried so far:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Changing motors: I have tried using a new motor which I know it&#xA;works and the problem persists. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I have adjusted the stepper driver voltages, and the problem&#xA;persists.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I have changed the PSU and the problem persists.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Changing the whole board: I have changed the whole board with a&#xA;brand new one and the problem persists.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am out of options here. So now the only logical explanation is that the both boards (the old and new) have exactly the same problem, i.e. the extruder stepper driver is bad in some way. Yet again, it works fine when simply extruding...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any help would be much appreciated. &#xA;Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14679" LastActivityDate="2019-02-28T23:29:13.283" Title="Extruder clicking issue with MKS Board v1.5" Tags="|extruder|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8369" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8597" CreationDate="2019-02-28T14:43:50.433" Score="5" ViewCount="1667" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am using a Flash Forge Creator, and when I print big parts (only in this case) I have about 25% of the bottom of the printed object sticking very hard to its support layer. And I spend a lot of time removing it with a cutter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any clue or good practice to avoid that?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I use ReplicatorG for my printing settings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14654" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2019-08-31T09:25:53.880" LastActivityDate="2019-08-31T09:25:53.880" Title="3D printed part sticking to the support layer" Tags="|pla|support-structures|flashforge-creator|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8370" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8368" CreationDate="2019-02-28T15:34:11.607" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is one reason why extruders &quot;click&quot;: the material can't be melted and advanced fast enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are two likely reasons why your extruder works when used manually, but not during a print:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;1. The temperature is not hot enough for the speed (volume per second) demanded by the print.&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Have you verified that you're using the proper temperature, and that the head is reaching the proper temperature?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;2. There is too much resistance on the delivery.&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Have you verified that the Z positioning is not too close, causing back pressure and interfering with the deposition?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4922" LastActivityDate="2019-02-28T15:34:11.607" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8371" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-02-28T16:05:29.863" Score="1" ViewCount="605" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought a ender 3 a short time ago and yesterday i noticed a print failed. It seems like the buildplate jammed while trying to move along the y-axis so i replaced the v-shape wheels that keep it on the rails. However it still seems like my buildplate jams with every print en so my print layers move when the buildplate doesn't move making the layers not connect at the right places. Is there anyone who had this problem before and might know how to fix this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14680" LastActivityDate="2019-02-28T22:10:37.200" Title="Creality ender 3 buildplate jamming" Tags="|diy-3d-printer|creality-ender-3|build-plate|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8372" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-02-28T19:07:38.633" Score="1" ViewCount="535" Body="&lt;p&gt;I will be printing an item that's usually made out of resin, but my version will be made out of PLA. Here are some questions I have:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Usually, people seal the resin with brands such as Testor's, Liquitex, or Mr. Super Clear, to create a layer that prevents paint or materials from bleeding into the resin over time. Is this necessary for items made out of PLA? Will the same sealant brands work?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;On these resin items, people steer clear of oil-based art supplies, like oil pastels, because the they will also stain the resin. Does the same concept apply to PLA?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Sometimes, certain dyed fabrics or synthetic materials will stain resin. Do these materials also have the potential to stain PLA? &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for the help!  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14682" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2019-02-28T22:11:16.710" LastActivityDate="2019-02-28T22:14:33.680" Title="Sealing PLA &amp; oil-based art supplies?" Tags="|pla|post-processing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8373" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8381" CreationDate="2019-02-28T19:08:22.303" Score="6" ViewCount="1211" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm struggling with an upgrade I made to my Creality CR-10.  I upgraded the extruder to an E3D V6 hotend.  The extruder mount and cooling fans are installed and working, however, I'm doing something wrong with installing the bowden tube into the hotend.  Inevitably after I print a few layers, the extruder jambs and the issue is always the same:  the bowden tube has backed itself out a few tenths of a millimeter, and the filament has mushroomed into the vacant space and hardened so that the filament cannot go forward or backwards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've tried several things to fix the issue including:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Trying various pneumatic fittings from various suppliers&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Recutting the end of the bowden tube to attempt to make it more flush&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Replacing the bowden tube &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Three different E3D heat-breaks from different supplier&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Various ways of inserting the bowden tube including:  pushing it after the fitting was screwed in, pushing it into a fitting that was back out a couple turns and then screwing the fitting in&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only thing that has (partially) worked was when I would ductape and hot-glue the bowden tube into the fitting so it couldn't back out.  However, since I'm still tweaking things, I inevitably have to disassemble things and I'm back to square one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to figure out what mistake I am making to keep causing this issue.  As an example, originally I used the pneumatic fittings wrong and thought I was supposed to pull the plastic part out to release the tube, rather than simply pushing it in to release the tube.  (Needless to say, I wrecked a lot of fittings that way.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What else might I be doing wrong to keep causing this issue?  What are other culprits to this issue happening repeatedly?  Are there firmware settings that may help (or be aggravating the issue)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1349" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2019-09-30T10:17:06.257" LastActivityDate="2019-09-30T10:17:06.257" Title="Installing bowden tube into E3D V6" Tags="|extruder|bowden|e3d-v6|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8374" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8371" CreationDate="2019-02-28T22:10:37.200" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;that sounds like layer shift... you might have one of these issues&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;overtightened the carriage wheels.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a loose Y-belt.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;something getting into the bed's cable, resulting in drag.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastActivityDate="2019-02-28T22:10:37.200" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8375" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8372" CreationDate="2019-02-28T22:14:33.680" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have worked with PLA and paints before. I use mainly acryl-based paints as well as spray lacquers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Sealent is not necessary.&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While a sealant is not necessary, you might prefer to use a spray on, smooth drying lacquer to get a smooth surface. PLA does not &amp;quot;soak in&amp;quot; paints or colors like resins.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:29:41.667" LastActivityDate="2019-02-28T22:14:33.680" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8377" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8368" CreationDate="2019-02-28T23:29:13.283" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Perhaps the print extrude speed is much higher than the manual extrude speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Often times the jog functions presented in printer host software are set to reasonably low speeds, while the actual maximum allowed speed is much higher. If you are using pronterface, there is an option above the jog controls to set the speed.  Note it's current value, and raise it until either the extruder clicks as your print does, or until it simple stops increasing speed. If you can make it click with more speed, then your max E speed limit is too high. You can either lower it with M203 in your starting gcode, or reflash the firmware with a new value. Alternatively you could limit the speed in your slicer and trust that it will not exceed the machine's capabilities.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you cannot make it click with more speed in a manual extrude, then the firmware limits are fine (you can still check them with M503) and the problem is elsewhere. Perhaps the filament getting caught, or a motor wire damaged and making partial contact. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12950" LastActivityDate="2019-02-28T23:29:13.283" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8378" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8373" CreationDate="2019-02-28T23:51:18.393" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This sounds more like a problem with heat creep. When you installed the new hotend, did you reuse the old cooling solution? You might need more heatblock insulation and / or cooling power.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12950" LastActivityDate="2019-02-28T23:51:18.393" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8380" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8408" CreationDate="2019-03-01T08:02:50.363" Score="5" ViewCount="6283" Body="&lt;p&gt;Recently started using my kit Prusa I3 Mk3 and noticed that with large horizontal surfaces a wrinkling pattern is emerging.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you can see in the image the wrinkles seem to run parallel, the surface is 10&amp;nbsp;mm above the build plate with all bridges fully supported.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has anyone seen this before? All other areas seem to be doing well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This print uses PLA filament @ 235&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C hotend temperature and clearly shows a wrinkled pattern on the top layer&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/a8luU.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Print showing wrinkled top layer print issue&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/a8luU.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Print showing wrinkled top layer print issue&quot; title=&quot;Print showing wrinkled top layer print issue&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it helps, I haven't changed the settings from the normal Prusa Slic3r 0.15 profile.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;The problem reduced to an acceptable level by reducing the temperature to 205&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C but keeping the fan speed 100&amp;nbsp;%, I am printing PLA. I might reduce the fan speed if I feel troubled by the result.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14687" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2019-03-11T18:20:23.153" LastActivityDate="2019-03-11T18:20:23.153" Title="Prusa i3 Mk3 - Top layer wrinkles (not on buildplate)" Tags="|prusa-i3|troubleshooting|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8381" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8373" CreationDate="2019-03-01T08:53:12.277" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;You may need to secure the pneumatic coupling in the closed position with a small plastic clip (which should be supplied with the hot end).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/h3ljP.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/h3ljP.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Pneumatic coupling with retaining clip&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can print your own, providing that your printer will work for long enough (a paper clip might do the trick):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2798864&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Thingiverse: Bowden Tube Clip v3&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Addendum:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some pneumatic couplers are sprung, so that you have to depress the coupling ring in order to release the tubing. In this case, no clip is usually required. Other pneumatic couplers (such as the one on an E3D V6) are unsprung. This makes it easier to secure and release the tube using the supplied clip. The disadvantage is that you may lose the clip. Sprung couplers sometimes lose their springiness, in which case a clip can be used to secure them in the closed position&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's &quot;swings and roundabouts&quot;, really. You can to choose between the awkwardness of sprung couplers, or the risk of losing a clip. Either way, print some spare clips. You may need them one day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3953" LastEditorUserId="3953" LastEditDate="2019-03-13T20:20:15.617" LastActivityDate="2019-03-13T20:20:15.617" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8382" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-03-01T13:56:00.977" Score="13" ViewCount="7114" Body="&lt;p&gt;One thing I never understood is the so-called &lt;strong&gt;Extrusion Multiplier (EM)&lt;/strong&gt; or &lt;strong&gt;Flow&lt;/strong&gt; setting in slicers like Simplify3D (S3D) or CURA.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The description for this setting reads...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;S3D: &lt;em&gt;Multiplier for all extrusion movements (...)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;CURA: &lt;em&gt;The amount of material extruded is multiplied by this value. (...)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I always believed that this parameter is just an ugly way to fix an underlying miscalculation or misconfiguration, because using it feels like doing a calculation, getting the wrong result and &quot;correcting&quot; it afterwards by a multiplier - &lt;em&gt;isn't that cheating&lt;/em&gt;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But, recently I thought a bit harder about this setting, now I am not sure anymore. One of the main reasons is, that S3D suggests different values for the EM, depending on the type of plastics used, &lt;strong&gt;0.9 for PLA&lt;/strong&gt; and &lt;strong&gt;1.0 for ABS&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This somehow implies that there is a &lt;em&gt;physical property&lt;/em&gt; that justifies the EM, but I cannot think of one because 1 m feeded would lead to 1 m extruded - no matter what kind of platics used, right?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14690" LastEditorUserId="14690" LastEditDate="2019-03-02T12:01:39.187" LastActivityDate="2019-06-24T23:18:21.910" Title="Isn't using the Extrusion Multiplier like cheating?" Tags="|extrusion|simplify3d|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8383" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8382" CreationDate="2019-03-01T14:05:41.420" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;That's one way to look at it, I guess. I think a more accurate way is to consider it an &quot;ad-hoc calibration&quot; where one realizes that their printer isn't extruding enough/too much and the EM adjusts the flow to extrude the correct amount.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The underlying calculation, at least the main one, would be the steps/mm set in the firmware. If it's off, one fix is to figure out how much it is off by and change the EM to that. The better solution is to determine the actual steps/mm and flash the firmware so that the EM can be set to 1.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13883" LastActivityDate="2019-03-01T14:05:41.420" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8384" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8382" CreationDate="2019-03-01T14:42:27.483" Score="20" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, the Flow rate or Extrusion multiplier is to compensate for different materials and temperature ranges.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Where does the factor come from?&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's say we calibrated our nozzle for work at 200°C with PLA, so 100 mm extrusion are correct and want to print ABS. ABS behaves differently and we get bad prints. What is wrong? Well, they do behave differently in the heat, and print at different temperatures. One easily noticeable difference between the two is the heat expansion coefficient.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, I had to scrounge through &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.e3s-conferences.org/articles/e3sconf/pdf/2018/07/e3sconf_eenviro2018_01007.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;research papers&lt;/a&gt; and Material/Technical Data Sheets for PLA, so take that one with a grain of salt. But we can clearly compare the various plastics &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/linear-expansion-coefficients-d_95.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;heat expansion coefficients&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;PLA: &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$41 \frac{\text{µm}}{\text{m K}}$&lt;/span&gt; &lt;sup&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.sd3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/06/MaterialTDS-PLA_01.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;a TDS&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;ABS: &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$72 \to 108 \frac{\text{µm}}{\text{m K}}$&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Polycarbonate: &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$65 \to 70 \frac{\text{µm}}{\text{m K}}$&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Polyamides (Nylons): &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$80 \to 110 \frac{\text{µm}}{\text{m K}}$&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Those are just three randomly picked plastics that clearly are printable. If we heat one meter of them by one Kelvin, they'd expand by that length (a couple micrometer). We heat the later three printing materials to about 200-240 K over the room temperature (~220-260 °C), so we'd expect these the materials to expand by the following ranges:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;PLA: 6.97 to 7.79 mm &lt;sup&gt;(1)&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;ABS: 14.4 to 25.92 mm &lt;sup&gt;(2)&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Polycarbonate: 13 to 16.8 mm &lt;sup&gt;(2)&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Polyamides (Nylons): 16 to 26.4 mm &lt;sup&gt;(2)&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1 - using 170 K and 190 K temperature difference for its normal print temperature range of ca 190 to 200 °C&lt;br&gt;2 - first: low expansion at 200 K increase, then high expansion at 240 K&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You have calibrated your printer for &lt;em&gt;one&lt;/em&gt; of these values somewhere in there. And now you get a different filament that has a different color and a different blend or even you swap from PLA to ABS or switch from one brand to another - the result is: you get a different heat expansion coefficient somewhere in that range and you have almost no chance to know it. The heat expansion coefficient, in the end, has an effect on the pressure in the nozzle and this the speed the material leaves the nozzle, which impacts die swell and so the overall printing behavior.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remember that heat expansion is not the only thing that is happening in the nozzle. Other big factors are for example the viscosity of the polymer at its printing temperature, its compressibility (which depends for example on chain length or embedded fillers), the geometry of the nozzle, the length of the melt zone... they all play a role in how exactly the print gets to come out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We can sum all those up under a general &amp;quot;behavior in the nozzle&amp;quot; tag, and as a result one gets vastly different flow/extrusion multipliers, like the 0.9 for PLA/1 for ABS in Simplify3D.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Other Factors?&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are also other factors that play a role.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The distance between the extruder and the melt zone and how the filament behaves there are somewhat obvious: A ductile filament can bunch up some in a Bowden tube while in a direct drive there is much less space for that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The extruder can have an influence depending on the geometry of the drive gear and how much it &lt;em&gt;bites&lt;/em&gt; into the filament. The depth of the deformation is again dependant on the hardness of the filament and the geometry of the teeth. &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/8396/8884&quot;&gt;Tollo&lt;/a&gt; has a great explanation how this has an effect on the need to alter the extrusion multiplier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;gaining the factors&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most of these are determined by trial and error using a factor of 1 and dialing up manually until proper printing is achieved on the machine, then putting that factor back into the software.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a side note: Ultimaker Cura has (in its filament database) the ability to save flow rates into each different filament, but does initialize all with 100 % default.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;TL;DR&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is a way to adjust to the relative difference between the behavior of filaments (using one of your filaments as the calibration) and &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; cheating.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:29:41.667" LastActivityDate="2019-03-02T20:53:34.957" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8385" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8380" CreationDate="2019-03-01T15:50:13.487" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Might just be that you are bridging without collapsing but still have some visible sag.  Things to try:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) increase the support/infil density.  If slic3r has a configurable setting like Cura does, you only need to increase the density for the last couple mm prior to the top layer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) increase the top plate thickness (number of extruded layers). This often allows the first extruded layer to sag, but the final layer or two to be quite flat. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2191" LastActivityDate="2019-03-01T15:50:13.487" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8386" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-03-01T18:55:10.040" Score="2" ViewCount="865" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just installed a few of these chips on my RAMPS 1.4 board and tried to turn it on, and the lights on my RAMPS board lit up, which was normal. Then I saw a spark growing and I turned the power off. I removed the chips and they were burned as in the photos. Is this a fault of the board, or the chips?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AKpfk.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Burnt chips&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AKpfk.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Burnt chips&quot; title=&quot;Burnt chips&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had two more on it which were fine, at least, they did not seem to be not burned. Both chips seemed to burned at the same pins, which makes me think those are just trash chips, but I have no clue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14500" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-04-29T20:40:18.570" LastActivityDate="2019-04-29T20:40:18.570" Title="Why did my stepper motor controller chips burn?" Tags="|troubleshooting|stepper-driver|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8387" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8390" CreationDate="2019-03-01T20:32:51.040" Score="4" ViewCount="524" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am new to 3D printing and recently got a second hand RF1000 and am busy calibrating it. For this I want to print a basic &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1278865&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;calibration cube&lt;/a&gt;. I noticed the print doesn't always start with enough filament in the nozzle. To make sure the starting point for all prints are the same I added this G-Code in the CuraEngine settings:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;G92 E0 ; start line&#xA;G1 F300 E-0.5&#xA;G1 X230 Y22 Z0.35 F5000&#xA;G1 F800 E13&#xA;G1 X20 E25 F1000&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This works however after this the slicer automatically adds G-Code to move the extruder to the skirt location. This should be fine however I noticed that during the last part of this movement it retracts filament. This causes the start of the actual print to fail. What causes this and how can I change my settings to prevent this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for any help or advice you can give!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Below is the G-Code from start until the end of the skirt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;;Generated with Cura_SteamEngine 15.01&#xA;; Default start code&#xA;G28 ; Home extruder&#xA;G1 Z15 F100&#xA;M107 ; Turn off fan&#xA;G90 ; Absolute positioning&#xA;M82 ; Extruder in absolute mode&#xA;M190 S60&#xA;; Activate all used extruder&#xA;M104 T0 S210&#xA;G92 E0 ; Reset extruder position&#xA;; Wait for all used extruders to reach temperature&#xA;M109 T0 S210&#xA;G92 E0 ; start line&#xA;G1 F300 E-0.5&#xA;G1 X230 Y22 Z0.35 F5000&#xA;G1 F800 E13&#xA;G1 X20 E25 F1000&#xA;;Layer count: 199&#xA;;LAYER:0&#xA;M106 S127&#xA;G0 F9000 X80.200 Y80.200 Z0.200&#xA;;TYPE:SKIRT&#xA;G1 F1800 X119.800 Y80.200 E0.44818&#xA;G1 X119.800 Y119.800 E0.89636&#xA;G1 X80.200 Y119.800 E1.34454&#xA;G1 X80.200 Y80.200 E1.79272&#xA;G0 F9000 X80.600 Y80.600&#xA;G1 F1800 X119.400 Y80.600 E2.23185&#xA;G1 X119.400 Y119.400 E2.67097&#xA;G1 X80.600 Y119.400 E3.11010&#xA;G1 X80.600 Y80.600 E3.54923&#xA;G0 F9000 X81.000 Y81.000&#xA;G1 F1800 X119.000 Y81.000 E3.97930&#xA;G1 X119.000 Y119.000 E4.40937&#xA;G1 X81.000 Y119.000 E4.83944&#xA;G1 X81.000 Y81.000 E5.26951&#xA;G0 F9000 X81.400 Y81.400&#xA;G1 F1800 X118.600 Y81.400 E5.69053&#xA;G1 X118.600 Y118.600 E6.11155&#xA;G1 X81.400 Y118.600 E6.53257&#xA;G1 X81.400 Y81.400 E6.95359&#xA;G0 F9000 X81.800 Y81.800&#xA;G1 F1800 X118.200 Y81.800 E7.36555&#xA;G1 X118.200 Y118.200 E7.77751&#xA;G1 X81.800 Y118.200 E8.18948&#xA;G1 X81.800 Y81.800 E8.60144&#xA;G0 F9000 X82.200 Y82.200&#xA;G1 F1800 X117.800 Y82.200 E9.00435&#xA;G1 X117.800 Y117.800 E9.40726&#xA;G1 X82.200 Y117.800 E9.81017&#xA;G1 X82.200 Y82.200 E10.21308&#xA;G0 F9000 X82.600 Y82.600&#xA;G1 F1800 X117.400 Y82.600 E10.60693&#xA;G1 X117.400 Y117.400 E11.00079&#xA;G1 X82.600 Y117.400 E11.39465&#xA;G1 X82.600 Y82.600 E11.78850&#xA;G0 F9000 X83.000 Y83.000&#xA;G1 F1800 X117.000 Y83.000 E12.17330&#xA;G1 X117.000 Y117.000 E12.55810&#xA;G1 X83.000 Y117.000 E12.94290&#xA;G1 X83.000 Y83.000 E13.32771&#xA;G0 F9000 X83.400 Y83.400&#xA;G1 F1800 X116.600 Y83.400 E13.70345&#xA;G1 X116.600 Y116.600 E14.07920&#xA;G1 X83.400 Y116.600 E14.45495&#xA;G1 X83.400 Y83.400 E14.83069&#xA;G0 F9000 X83.800 Y83.800&#xA;G1 F1800 X116.200 Y83.800 E15.19739&#xA;G1 X116.200 Y116.200 E15.56408&#xA;G1 X83.800 Y116.200 E15.93077&#xA;G1 X83.800 Y83.800 E16.29747&#xA;G0 F9000 X84.200 Y84.200&#xA;G1 F1800 X115.800 Y84.200 E16.65511&#xA;G1 X115.800 Y115.800 E17.01274&#xA;G1 X84.200 Y115.800 E17.37038&#xA;G1 X84.200 Y84.200 E17.72802&#xA;G0 F9000 X84.600 Y84.600&#xA;G1 F1800 X115.400 Y84.600 E18.07661&#xA;G1 X115.400 Y115.400 E18.42519&#xA;G1 X84.600 Y115.400 E18.77378&#xA;G1 X84.600 Y84.600 E19.12236&#xA;G0 F9000 X85.000 Y85.000&#xA;G1 F1800 X115.000 Y85.000 E19.46189&#xA;G1 X115.000 Y115.000 E19.80142&#xA;G1 X85.000 Y115.000 E20.14095&#xA;G1 X85.000 Y85.000 E20.48048&#xA;G0 F9000 X85.400 Y85.400&#xA;G1 F1800 X114.600 Y85.400 E20.81096&#xA;G1 X114.600 Y114.600 E21.14144&#xA;G1 X85.400 Y114.600 E21.47191&#xA;G1 X85.400 Y85.400 E21.80239&#xA;G0 F9000 X85.800 Y85.800&#xA;G1 F1800 X114.200 Y85.800 E22.12381&#xA;G1 X114.200 Y114.200 E22.44523&#xA;G1 X85.800 Y114.200 E22.76665&#xA;G1 X85.800 Y85.800 E23.08808&#xA;G0 F9000 X86.200 Y86.200&#xA;G1 F1800 X113.800 Y86.200 E23.40045&#xA;G1 X113.800 Y113.800 E23.71281&#xA;G1 X86.200 Y113.800 E24.02518&#xA;G1 X86.200 Y86.200 E24.33755&#xA;G0 F9000 X86.600 Y86.600&#xA;G1 F1800 X113.400 Y86.600 E24.64086&#xA;G1 X113.400 Y113.400 E24.94418&#xA;G1 X86.600 Y113.400 E25.24749&#xA;G1 X86.600 Y86.600 E25.55081&#xA;G0 F9000 X87.000 Y87.000&#xA;G1 F1800 X113.000 Y87.000 E25.84507&#xA;G1 X113.000 Y113.000 E26.13932&#xA;G1 X87.000 Y113.000 E26.43358&#xA;G1 X87.000 Y87.000 E26.72784&#xA;G0 F9000 X87.400 Y87.400&#xA;G1 F1800 X112.600 Y87.400 E27.01305&#xA;G1 X112.600 Y112.600 E27.29826&#xA;G1 X87.400 Y112.600 E27.58346&#xA;G1 X87.400 Y87.400 E27.86867&#xA;G0 F9000 X87.800 Y87.800&#xA;G1 F1800 X112.200 Y87.800 E28.14482&#xA;G1 X112.200 Y112.200 E28.42097&#xA;G1 X87.800 Y112.200 E28.69712&#xA;G1 X87.800 Y87.800 E28.97327&#xA;G0 F9000 X88.200 Y88.200&#xA;G1 F1800 X111.800 Y88.200 E29.24037&#xA;G1 X111.800 Y111.800 E29.50747&#xA;G1 X88.200 Y111.800 E29.77457&#xA;G1 X88.200 Y88.200 E30.04166&#xA;G0 F9000 X88.600 Y88.600&#xA;G1 F1800 X111.400 Y88.600 E30.29971&#xA;G1 X111.400 Y111.400 E30.55775&#xA;G1 X88.600 Y111.400 E30.81579&#xA;G1 X88.600 Y88.600 E31.07384&#xA;G0 F9000 X89.000 Y89.000&#xA;G1 F1800 X111.000 Y89.000 E31.32282&#xA;G1 X111.000 Y111.000 E31.57181&#xA;G1 X89.000 Y111.000 E31.82080&#xA;G1 X89.000 Y89.000 E32.06979&#xA;G0 F9000 X89.400 Y89.400&#xA;G1 F1800 X110.600 Y89.400 E32.30973&#xA;G1 X110.600 Y110.600 E32.54966&#xA;G1 X89.400 Y110.600 E32.78960&#xA;G1 X89.400 Y89.400 E33.02953&#xA;G0 F9000 X89.800 Y89.800&#xA;G1 F1800 X110.200 Y89.800 E33.26041&#xA;G1 X110.200 Y110.200 E33.49129&#xA;G1 X89.800 Y110.200 E33.72217&#xA;G1 X89.800 Y89.800 E33.95305&#xA;G0 F9000 X90.600 Y90.600&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14693" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-03-02T06:21:54.063" LastActivityDate="2019-03-04T17:27:37.650" Title="Extruder retracts filament while moving from default start line to actual object location" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|g-code|extrusion|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8388" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8394" CreationDate="2019-03-02T05:11:23.023" Score="2" ViewCount="1520" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought an Ender 3, and after assembling it following the description and some YouTube videos and after correct leveling, I printed the test dog gcode on the micro SD card that comes with the printer. PLA 1.75&amp;nbsp;mm. Attached the image of the printing result. What went wrong? I didn't change or modify any settings what so ever, I just assembled the printer, and printed the test dog. Please help me, I am a beginner in 3D printing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CisP7.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CisP7.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14698" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2019-03-02T13:52:50.777" LastActivityDate="2019-03-06T14:22:16.823" Title="Ender3 printing tilted layers" Tags="|print-quality|troubleshooting|creality-ender-3|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8389" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8382" CreationDate="2019-03-02T05:32:00.060" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The extrusion multiplier is just to compensate for amounts of flow. A material like PLA is very fluid when at 190-200C, so to extrude slightly less then 100% would reduce zits on the print, slightly increase tolerance, reduce stringing and also reduce risk of heatcreep. Materials like ABS and Nylon aren't as liquid when at temperature, so they don't require any alterations to the flow rate during printing. Flow rate can also be adjusted to improve first layers, although too much can cause &quot;elephants foot&quot;, or too much first layer squish, similar to having your bed leveled too close.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14700" LastActivityDate="2019-03-02T05:32:00.060" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8390" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8387" CreationDate="2019-03-02T06:49:01.553" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The problem is that you prime the nozzle, but don't reset the filament length.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With your last priming action:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;code&gt;G1 X20 E25 F1000&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You deposit a line that is followed by a move to the start of the skirt:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;code&gt;G0 F9000 X80.200 Y80.200 Z0.200&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The printing of the start of the skirt is done by:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;code&gt;G1 F1800 X119.800 Y80.200 E0.44818&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Notice the &lt;code&gt;E&lt;/code&gt; term in your final priming line and the skirt print command; it goes from &lt;strong&gt;&lt;code&gt;E25&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; to &lt;strong&gt;&lt;code&gt;E0.44818&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;, as these specify absolute movement, this results in a retraction of about 24.5&amp;nbsp;mm. What you should do is implement a &lt;code&gt;G92 E0&lt;/code&gt; after your last priming command to fix this incorrect retraction behavior.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sub&gt;&lt;em&gt;Please also do note that you are using a very old version of the CuraEngine, maybe it is possible to update to a newer version as well; depending on the slicer you use.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-03-04T17:27:37.650" LastActivityDate="2019-03-04T17:27:37.650" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8391" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7609" CreationDate="2019-03-02T09:47:51.897" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Possibly unrelated to the firmware?  This happened to me when I tightened the mount screws on the LCD,  after I backed them off a bit it was fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14702" LastActivityDate="2019-03-02T09:47:51.897" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8394" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8388" CreationDate="2019-03-02T13:29:40.523" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is an extreme case of repeated layer shifting in the Y-carriage, which can come from some pieces related to the carriage. Luckily for you, they are easily fixable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The Ender3 Y-carriage has an eccentric nut to adjust the force the wheels press down on the V-slot. Adjust it (most likely loosen them a little) so it moves smoothly when the motors are off, but keep it tight enough so it does not tilt.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The belt in the Y-carriage might be loose. Tighten it till it gives a nice ring when struck.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check if the gear on the Y-motor is tightened down correctly. If it slips or wriggles, the backlash results in the layers shifting.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The Ender3 has the cables to the gantry and the bed running across each other and quite open. Make sure nothing can be caught in them.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Make sure the gantry is parallel to the bed and stays so in moving upwards - adjust the wheels as needed. &#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;To ensure this, make sure the lead screw is orthogonal to the gantry. Level the bed afterwards. You might need to adjust the motor mount, possibly by shimming.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2019-03-06T14:22:16.823" LastActivityDate="2019-03-06T14:22:16.823" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8395" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6188" CreationDate="2019-03-02T14:22:52.913" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Meshmixer will perform boolean operations between two STL objects faster than OpenSCAD. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Import the primary .stl, append the second .stl: the one you want to take away from the primary. In the Object Browser window select the primary and then hold the Ctrl key down and left click on the second, a window pops up giving you a boolean difference option.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14711" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-03-02T21:47:46.593" LastActivityDate="2019-03-02T21:47:46.593" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8396" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8382" CreationDate="2019-03-02T19:44:22.337" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;In addition to the very detailed answers above, I would like to&#xA;mention that the hardness of the filament plays a role too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most feeders are spring loaded, therefore it depends on the &lt;strong&gt;hardness of the filament&lt;/strong&gt; how far the teeth of the driving gear do sink in. The deeper they sink in, the smaller the &lt;strong&gt;effective diameter&lt;/strong&gt; of the driving gear becomes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Therefore the E-steps/mm are not the same among ABS &lt;a href=&quot;https://omnexus.specialchem.com/polymer-properties/properties/hardness-shore-d&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;(~100 shore D)&lt;/a&gt; and PLA &lt;a href=&quot;https://ultimaker.com/download/67580/TDS%20PLA%20v3.011-ger-DE.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;(~83 shore D)&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This would lead to a higher value (of E-steps/mm) necessary for PLA as for ABS,&#xA;contrary to the values mentioned in the OP (EM of 0.9 for PLA / EM of 1.0 for ABS), where the extrusion multiplier is higher for ABS than for PLA.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14690" LastEditorUserId="14690" LastEditDate="2019-03-03T02:00:12.693" LastActivityDate="2019-03-03T02:00:12.693" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8397" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8398" CreationDate="2019-03-03T23:37:04.290" Score="5" ViewCount="1078" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am looking for the temperature rating for hardboard. I want to use that as the base for my printer enclosure. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It has proven incredible hard get a ball-park figure from Google. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, what is the maximum safe temperature for a hardboard panel at long term? (considering a print job can easily take 6 hours).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PS: if you have used a hardboard to build your enclosure, your experience might be helpful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14498" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-03-04T12:18:58.403" LastActivityDate="2019-03-04T18:43:33.317" Title="Using hardboard for 3D printer enclosure; what is the temperature rating of hardboard?" Tags="|enclosure|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8398" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8397" CreationDate="2019-03-04T01:15:56.230" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hardboard is called &lt;em&gt;Masonite&lt;/em&gt; here in the States because that is the trade name of the product. If you look up the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.gunnersens.co.nz/images/stories/products/Masonite%20Standard/specs/Australian_Hardboards_Masonite_MSDS.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Material Safety Data Sheet&lt;/a&gt; you will see Masonite it states the following (Section 5):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Auto-ignition Temperature (°C): &gt;200 degrees Celsius&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In Section 7, it states:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;These boards are flammable but difficult to ignite.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Furthermore in Section 10, it states:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Conditions to avoid:&lt;/strong&gt; Avoid sources of radiant heat and flame; and avoid sparks and sources of ignition in all electrical equipment, including dust extraction equipment.&#xA;  Avoid excessive build up of dust from boards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The hot end works of printers are neither radiant heat, nor flames, nor sparks. Yes, you'll have a buildup of heat within the working confines of an enclosure, but if you are only using it for a base there should be absolutely no issues. If you were to build an entire enclosure from hardboard, you could put a thermal probe inside with the printer to ensure it doesn't get too hot, but realistically, it will never get hot enough within the enclosure to light the hardboard on fire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11242" LastActivityDate="2019-03-04T01:15:56.230" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8400" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8397" CreationDate="2019-03-04T07:51:28.460" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Masonite or hardboard is a high-density board without a resin. It is &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.chromaluxe.com/wp-content/uploads/SDS-Hardboard-Universal-Woods.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;listed&lt;/a&gt; at around 200 to 275 °C for its autoignition temperature. Just for comparison, let's look at similar products.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Medium-density fiberboard (MDF) is similar to hardboard but bonded with a resin, offering a smoother surface and is &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.westfraser.com/sites/default/files/products/MDF/WP-GoldPlus%202013.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;listed&lt;/a&gt; at 200 to 275 °C, so pretty close.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The heavier High-density fiberboard variant is &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.clarionindustries.com/assets/files/Clarion-msds-hdf.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;listed&lt;/a&gt; with about the same temperatures of about 200 to 275 °C.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Oriented Strand Board (OSB) is &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.langboard.com/osb/data/osb_msds.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;listed&lt;/a&gt; at 200 to 260 °C.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Conclusion&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All the materials have very similar autoignition temperatures, so none of them particularly shines over the other. Using a proper fire safety procedure is highly encouraged, even though the ambient temperature in the enclosure should not reach even close to the 200 °C unless the printer has a freak accident and catches fire itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A smoke detector is a must.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Some kind of cooling method that keeps the inside at a temperature down is highly encouraged. A simple temperature activated fan might help in this.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lining the inside of the box with a thicker aluminium or copper tape can help to even out the temperature over the surfaces faster, preventing the formation of hotspots that might otherwise reach dangerous temperatures. &lt;a href=&quot;https://uk.rs-online.com/web/c/adhesives-sealants-tapes/tapes/copper-tapes/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Copper tapes&lt;/a&gt; are more expensive than &lt;a href=&quot;https://uk.rs-online.com/web/c/adhesives-sealants-tapes/tapes/aluminium-tapes/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Aluminium tapes&lt;/a&gt; but have a better heat transfer coefficient.&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Including an automatic fire suppression system could be an option.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1 - The RS Catalogue was just chosen for ease of navigation. &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.mcmaster.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;McMaster Carr&lt;/a&gt; does list special &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/125/3591&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;heat shielding tape&lt;/a&gt; in both thin and aluminium as well as &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/125/3587&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;copper and aluminium foil&lt;/a&gt; tapes. I am not affiliated to either.&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:29:41.667" LastActivityDate="2019-03-04T18:43:33.317" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8401" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-03-04T10:11:56.033" Score="1" ViewCount="70" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a RAMPS 1.4 setup and I am trying to get things to move.&#xA;I have a DRV2258 attached to it, and when I power on the 12&amp;nbsp;V power supply the stepper gets some resistance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, when I try to send commands in Repetier Host, the stepper doesn't even move. Only the led on the Arduino Mega flickers (as it should, as it is instructed in the G-code).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Baud rate set to 115200 &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The stepper driver also has 1.7 amps, which seems to be correct.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14500" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-03-04T12:16:57.057" LastActivityDate="2019-03-05T13:02:57.013" Title="My stepper motor has resistance, but does not respond to commands" Tags="|troubleshooting|stepper-driver|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8402" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8382" CreationDate="2019-03-04T10:56:58.110" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;To address the 'cheating or not' aspect directly. There are several other parameters (steps/mm, nominal filament diameter) which have a direct equivalent impact on the end result (at least ignoring small 2nd order effects like the retract distances).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a purist, you might argue that these could all be rolled up into a single calibration parameter in the slicer, and it is a waste to allow the user to pick how to manage the differences (but this is not a very modern UI approach).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The clearest reason for 'permitting' the use of extrusion multiplier is that &lt;em&gt;during a print&lt;/em&gt;, extrusion multiplier is one parameter that can often be adjusted on the fly. If you end up needing to perform on the fly calibration, it absolutely makes sense to transfer this parameter from the machine to the slicer rather than perform the extra calculations to determine a new nominal filament diameter. It will probably be easier to remember a specific spool needing 95%, rather than 1.7nnn mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4927" LastActivityDate="2019-03-04T10:56:58.110" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8403" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8388" CreationDate="2019-03-04T22:22:10.597" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ender 3's have a reputation to be not quite square on the base. Make sure that your X, Y, and X axis' are all perfectly squared.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14700" LastActivityDate="2019-03-04T22:22:10.597" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8404" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8343" CreationDate="2019-03-04T22:31:42.050" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Chances are, you're not levelled close enough. try levelling your bed when it's heated around 60C (or as high as you can get if your machine's FW won't let it go that high) with a piece of standard printer paper. you should get a bit of resistance, and play around with the paper for a bit, find a happy medium. Try spreading glue stick on your bed, or spray it with hairspray. If you have BuildTak or some form of PEI, wipe it with some 99% rubbing alcohol. Lastly, find a fairly simple model on thingiverse.com or myminifactory.com, and slice it using either Raft or Skirt as build plate adhesion. I prefer a skirt because you can actively be checking how your bed levelling is, and adjust it. And make sure your first layer flow or extrusion multiplier is slightly higher is about 110-120%. This can get you good sticking almost every time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14700" LastActivityDate="2019-03-04T22:31:42.050" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8405" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8210" CreationDate="2019-03-04T22:39:10.860" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;As far as PET-based filaments go, most of them are FDA approved. So yes, &quot;food safe&quot;. It's the process of 3D printing that ruins that. all the little layers trap just about everything and are hard to clean. If you wanted to boil your part, that might work, but you'd be better off buying a food-safe coating spray for your parts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14700" LastEditorUserId="14700" LastEditDate="2019-03-06T04:45:36.117" LastActivityDate="2019-03-06T04:45:36.117" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8406" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-03-05T00:40:17.067" Score="1" ViewCount="150" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sometimes my meshes turn out with artifacts Which can be seen in the bottom image. What is the cause? The first image shows my mesh which its generated from.&#xA;I've tried multiple slicers. This tends to occur sometimes.&#xA;Any help appreciated. Is there something going over my head???&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/neQxc.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/neQxc.png&quot; alt=&quot;mesh wireframe&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/W19Y7.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/W19Y7.png&quot; alt=&quot;Artifacts in 3d model&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13482" LastActivityDate="2019-03-06T02:14:30.490" Title="Cause of slicing artifacts layers not connecting diagonal errors" Tags="|print-quality|3d-design|slicing|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8407" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8406" CreationDate="2019-03-05T01:32:23.373" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The artifacts you spot in your slices do not come from the slicer, they are actually present in the STL file you export.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suggest checking your model for problems like vertices that share a position or edges that are parallel but not joined. Use the &lt;code&gt;remove doubles&lt;/code&gt; function in blender to merge up these vertices. Then make sure that your surface consists of only squares and triangles to aid the stl generation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastActivityDate="2019-03-05T01:32:23.373" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8408" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8380" CreationDate="2019-03-05T08:26:50.430" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Waves in printed surfaces with &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fused_filament_fabrication&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;FFF&lt;/a&gt; are observed at either the bottom layer (common) or the top layer (less common).&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Waves in bottom layer&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rippling/wave generation/wrinkling is a common problem for first layer to occur and has a direct relation to the print nozzle to bed distance; a too short of a distance or over-extrusion can lead to this effect. However, this effect is less commonly observed in top layer finishes.  Bottom layer waves are described in more detail in &lt;a href=&quot;/a/7232&quot;&gt;this answer&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Waves in top layer&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have seen this defect before. It is caused by a &lt;em&gt;combination of incorrect &lt;strong&gt;hotend temperature&lt;/strong&gt; and &lt;strong&gt;print cooling fan&lt;/strong&gt; settings&lt;/em&gt;. Please reduce the hotend temperature and reduce the fan cooling. The image below clearly shows the differences of such measures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/10XmG.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/10XmG.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Solving waves in top layer of print&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:29:41.667" LastActivityDate="2019-03-09T06:36:09.103" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8410" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-03-05T18:02:36.683" Score="2" ViewCount="125" Body="&lt;p&gt;The stock heated bed which came on my Creality printer is significantly warped beyond any simple leveling with the screws. Lets say I want to upgrade the stock bed to a premium heated bed, does such a thing even exist? None of the beds I see list any specs or tolerances regarding flatness or deviation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What should I be looking for to ensure I am looking at a superior bed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13829" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2019-03-06T02:29:26.833" LastActivityDate="2019-03-06T02:29:26.833" Title="Premium heated bed upgrade options?" Tags="|heated-bed|diy-3d-printer|bed-leveling|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8412" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-03-05T20:06:50.780" Score="2" ViewCount="108" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a problem with my steppers of a RepRap 3D printer I'm making. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I assembled the machine and performed the endswitch calibrations. when the machine is not printing, the steppers are moving as expected. But, when I start printing, only the z-axis moves. it is also moving very fast; X and Y axis don't move. I'm using a RAMPS 1.4 board, NEMA 17 steppers and A4988 stepper drivers. My configuration file can be found &lt;a href=&quot;https://yadi.sk/i/vQBjLhKK5sE4cQ&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does somebody know what could be the problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14750" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2019-04-05T09:48:11.340" LastActivityDate="2020-04-29T11:03:00.380" Title="Steppers don't work as expected while printing" Tags="|diy-3d-printer|reprap|stepper|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8413" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-03-05T21:01:38.830" Score="1" ViewCount="192" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a problem with the y movement of my machine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When i select y+1 in repetier, it moves, but with a very strange noise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a video to show the problem &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qmz_r5fzOSc&amp;amp;feature=youtu.be&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Set the voltage of the stepper drivers to 0.6V&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Set the voltage of the power supply to 12V&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tightened the belts (but not too tight!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know what this is? Is it a problem with my belts or are my stepper motors too weak?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14500" LastActivityDate="2019-03-05T21:48:29.520" Title="Stepper does not move smoothly" Tags="|stepper|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8414" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8410" CreationDate="2019-03-05T21:40:44.630" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are only trying to upgrade the &quot;flatness&quot; of the bed and are okay with the heating times you can just put a peice of glass on top. Otherwise you can look into getting a milled tool plate which will be much flatter than a rolled or stamped plate, but you will have to attach your own heating element to this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11097" LastActivityDate="2019-03-05T21:40:44.630" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8415" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8413" CreationDate="2019-03-05T21:48:29.520" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Fixed. One of the two was movign in the wrong direction. Problem solved!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14500" LastActivityDate="2019-03-05T21:48:29.520" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8416" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-03-05T22:57:50.920" Score="3" ViewCount="848" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm playing with printing some Lego-like bricks. I'm using brick models where the wall thicknesses are aligned to match an exact multiple of my printer nozzle (.4&amp;nbsp;mm nozzle = 1.2&amp;nbsp;mm brick walls, vs the standard 1.4&amp;nbsp;mm), with other adjustments to the interior ridges of the brick so they should still fit with real Legos. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm seeing an odd effect when slicing in Ultimaker Cura 3.6. My settings for Wall Thickness/Wall Line Count are 1.2&amp;nbsp;mm/3 lines. And yet, in the layer view, I see &lt;em&gt;one&lt;/em&gt; wall line, with diagonal striping between those walls:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1rHEK.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1rHEK.png&quot; alt=&quot;Legos Layer View&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Part of it could be the interior ridges creating some thicker walls in places, but if you look at the piece on the left, there are no ridges (it will be a plate, rather than a brick, and Lego plates don't use ridges). Yet it still has the striping. I re-measured the STL in 3 different modelling programs (Meshmixer, 3D Builder, Tinkercad) and all show the walls as exactly 1.2&amp;nbsp;mm thick.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I then noticed I can remove this by putting something small (even .001&amp;nbsp;mm is enough) in the &quot;Horizontal Expansion&quot; setting:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cbGVi.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cbGVi.png&quot; alt=&quot;Lego Layers view without striping&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is more what I wanted, and it cuts the print time almost in half. I can also fix this by setting enough bottom or top layers to handle the whole piece with a wall thickness of 1 line...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;... but why was it necessary? What is going on here?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12562" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-03-06T00:11:43.227" LastActivityDate="2019-03-06T13:52:37.260" Title="Ultimaker Cura 3.6 choosing to fill in narrow walls with diagonal striping" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|slicing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8417" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8406" CreationDate="2019-03-06T02:14:30.490" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The issue was solved by disabling coasting in the options within the slicer&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13482" LastActivityDate="2019-03-06T02:14:30.490" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8418" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8412" CreationDate="2019-03-06T07:26:39.367" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've looked into your configuration file of your firmware but cannot find anything that describes this odd behavior. You have used some conservative settings regarding printing acceleration. What cannot be assessed is the amount of steps required per millimeter movement of every axis, that is left for you to re-check.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that when the steppers are working as expected when the printer is at idle and you command the printer with an external printer software (e.g. Pronterface from the PrintRun software suite, Repetier-Host, OctoPrint, etc.), the problem could well be caused by the slicer and/or the options used for slicing the print part.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2019-03-06T07:26:39.367" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8419" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8416" CreationDate="2019-03-06T13:17:13.917" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;All slicers have their own peculiarities, and one of Cura's peccadilloes seems to be that It likes to generate an even number of shells for narrow structures, even if an odd number of shells would work nicely. Slic3r and Simplify3D have no problem with this, and will automatically generate an odd number of shells if they will fit the model.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cura, on the other hand, will reduce the number of shells and generate infill. If you have set the infill percentage to less than 100%, it will try its best to fulfil that requirement, and in your case, generate zigzag infill. However, if you set the infill to 100%, it will, in effect, create an additional shell, although it is really infill that follows the direction of the walls as far as Cura is concerned, since there is no space to generate the specified infill pattern pattern.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3953" LastEditorUserId="3953" LastEditDate="2019-03-06T13:52:37.260" LastActivityDate="2019-03-06T13:52:37.260" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8421" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9786" CreationDate="2019-03-06T20:35:26.030" Score="5" ViewCount="1047" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is the make/model of a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.makerbot.com/3d-printers/replicator/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;MakerBot Replicator+&lt;/a&gt; motherboard? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm assuming that the make is now MakerBot since they are now closed-source.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="98" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2019-04-26T07:06:54.720" LastActivityDate="2019-04-26T08:22:23.557" Title="Replicator+ Motherboard Model" Tags="|makerbot|replicator+|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8422" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-03-06T23:21:39.937" Score="3" ViewCount="285" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking for suggestions to what might be causing my prints to stop mid print. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I slice with Ultimaker Cura 3.6. Some prints work fine and others randomly stop at different heights for no apparent reason; they are not getting stuck, hung up or lifting. Prints just seems to pause. The quality of the prints are great up to the stopping point. This happens with SD cards and octoprint. Using Hatchbox PLA. All stock Ender 4 parts, no upgrades other then magnetic bed attached to a piece of steel. Bed was manually leveled and auto levels with sensor attached to extruder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14006" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-12-11T06:05:29.573" LastActivityDate="2019-12-11T06:05:29.573" Title="Ender 4 problem with printer stopping mid print" Tags="|troubleshooting|creality-ender-4|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2019-03-21T13:22:08.080" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8424" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-03-08T06:23:17.393" Score="5" ViewCount="59" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm starting work on a very large 3d printer that uses very large filament. The idea is to house the entire thing in a shipping container and print things as large as cars. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Filament will be some type of epoxy that is to be extruded out of a large 25mm nozzle. A second smaller nozzle using the same material will be used to do finer edges. A third nozzle will be used to produce supports of a different material.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know this is quite different than most 3d printing applications. I am wondering what slicers I should look into using that are adaptable enough to work with these constraints, or if such software exists.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14773" LastActivityDate="2019-03-08T10:01:20.960" Title="Slicer software capable of working with large filaments" Tags="|filament|software|slicing|extrusion|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8425" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8159" CreationDate="2019-03-08T09:30:20.543" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you start a print there is an &quot;Adjust&quot; button, that will take you to a screen where there is an option &quot;Economic&quot;. It that is left on it will turn off the bed heater during the print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14774" LastActivityDate="2019-03-08T09:30:20.543" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8426" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8424" CreationDate="2019-03-08T10:01:20.960" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;After checking it up, Ultimaker Cura (and possibly most other slicers capable of multi-extruder setups) is able to handle multiple extruders of varying nozzle size and seems to be ok with 25 mm Nozzles or something ludicrous such as 200 mm filament. You should aid its slicing in some way:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Dedicate one nozzle to the support structure, that's easy.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Design your parts with 2 shells:&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;One is the main body with corners cut to the main nozzle's extrusion diameter.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The other is the corners and details.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastActivityDate="2019-03-08T10:01:20.960" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8428" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-03-08T10:27:21.877" Score="2" ViewCount="1208" Body="&lt;p&gt;Lately, I've been having a problem with the surface of my prints. As shown in following picture:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lKMwI.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lKMwI.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Printing material is PLA. I've changed the print core (this is the terminology, Ultimaker uses for their hot end for e.g. Ultimaker 3 and 5; these cores come in different nozzle sizes and for different materials) but even with a different print core it happens from time to time (although less frequently). To me it seems like the extruded stops printing for a while and then continues. I've not been able to catch it while it happens though.&#xA;Any thoughts?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14777" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-08-31T08:17:01.460" LastActivityDate="2020-10-09T09:46:24.720" Title="Small filament globules/bubbles in print using Ultimaker 3 extended" Tags="|print-quality|troubleshooting|ultimaker-3|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8429" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7844" CreationDate="2019-03-08T10:40:52.500" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Turns out this can be fixed by increasing the bed temp to 65-70&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C and of course increasing the extruder temp by 30&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C or so, which is standard for the all metal hotends (no idea why)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13829" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-08-12T23:22:16.130" LastActivityDate="2019-08-12T23:22:16.130" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8430" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8432" CreationDate="2019-03-08T16:51:49.983" Score="1" ViewCount="463" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to 3d print my own icing smoothers, but I'm not sure if its safe to have plastic from a 3D printer in contact with cake icing. Is there any harm in this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14765" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2019-03-09T04:49:02.667" LastActivityDate="2019-04-05T03:51:48.470" Title="Is it safe to use a 3D printed icing smoother?" Tags="|safety|food|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8431" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-03-08T17:23:11.303" Score="0" ViewCount="143" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've just assembled my new Anet a6-L (with auto leveling). At first everything goes well, it turned on ready to setup but a couple hours later the printer just shutdown and won't turn on for about an hour. I carefully followed the steps concerning the wiring part (below are some pictures). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WkGk4.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WkGk4.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I just don't get it.. The power supply does light up the green LED when connected to power. Could you guys help me?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14783" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-03-09T07:05:40.163" LastActivityDate="2019-03-09T07:05:40.163" Title="Anet A6-L won't turn on again" Tags="|troubleshooting|power-supply|start|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8432" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8430" CreationDate="2019-03-08T18:12:59.590" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Only certain plastics are safe enough to be used to contain or manipulate food. ABS and PET-G are such materials. The 3d printing process however is not food safe because, it creates crevices in the printed part into which bacteria and other contaminants can cling to. A printed part would need to be coated in a silicone rubber to render the surface both inert (can't grow anything) and smooth (no crevices). Further, the type of plastic you use must be able to be sterilized in boiling water. PLA softens in boiling water. PET-G variants can as well (think clear plastic bottles). This is why most food handing utensils are either glass or stainless steel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are going to use a 3d printing process to produce parts that are to be used for food, you also have to consider containment from the machine itself. The brass nozzle, the teflon tube, the extruder gears etc. The filament itself may not have come from the factory as clean as it would need to be to be used around food. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are able to coat the heat resistant part in silicone and you only use it a few times (ensuring that it is properly washed and sterile) then it can be used for food prep purposes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a difference between food grade and safe for contact with food.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Acrylonitrile/butadiene/styrene copolymer identified in this section may be safely used as an article or component of articles intended for use with all foods, except those containing alcohol, under conditions of use E, F, and G described in table 2 of 176.170(c) of this chapter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.accessdata.fda.gov/scripts/cdrh/cfdocs/cfcfr/CFRSearch.cfm?fr=177.1020&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Abstract from: https://www.accessdata.fda.gov/scripts/cdrh/cfdocs/cfcfr/CFRSearch.cfm?fr=177.1020&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12857" LastEditorUserId="12857" LastEditDate="2019-03-12T04:03:34.113" LastActivityDate="2019-03-12T04:03:34.113" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8433" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8369" CreationDate="2019-03-09T07:38:13.913" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to the manufacturer:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;... you are able to choose your favorite software such as&#xA;  FlashPrint, Simplify3D, Cura and more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not being familiar with ReplicatorG, I know that other slicer software can set the distance between supports and print (in terms of the amount of layers). You could look for such a setting in ReplicatorG, or use a different slicer such as Ultimaker Cura or Slic3r; which are free and able to make such adjustments.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="14562" LastEditDate="2019-03-22T23:36:50.990" LastActivityDate="2019-03-22T23:36:50.990" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8435" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-03-09T13:58:39.730" Score="2" ViewCount="1599" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am a &lt;strong&gt;newbie&lt;/strong&gt; trying to setup and configure a 3D printer following online YouTube videos and tutorials. I am trying to configure a &lt;strong&gt;Hypercube Evolution 3D printer&lt;/strong&gt;.&#xA;I followed Tech2C videos (on YouTube) and was able to configure Marlin firmware to some extent. I am using Pronterface to send test codes and taking files from thingiverse.com for testing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Configuration :&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;CoreXY&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Board : Ramps 1.4&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Extruder Setup Type : Direct drive using Titan e3D&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;All end stops, temperature sensors, heaters configured and verified.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is working :&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;X,Y,Z axis movement directly from panel.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Homing is ok.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Temperature sensors, heating bed and hot end as expected.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Extruder motor working with &lt;strong&gt;direct&lt;/strong&gt; on panel command.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is not working :&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When I send a print file (taken from thingiverse.com), the X,Y,Z axis work but there is no extrusion what so ever. I have tried a lot of things but using files from thingiverse, the extrusion of filament is not there whatsoever. It's been 2 months trying to figure out whether the issue is in firmware or the file, however to no use. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can anyone help me get out of this or point out where I can be going wrong?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14789" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2019-03-09T18:23:36.467" LastActivityDate="2019-06-02T01:27:42.673" Title="Extruder Motor Not working during Printing" Tags="|extruder|diy-3d-printer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="9" ClosedDate="2019-06-03T18:24:15.940" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8436" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8489" CreationDate="2019-03-09T23:12:47.037" Score="3" ViewCount="739" Body="&lt;p&gt;I saw on a popular site simple indicators for attaching to the axle of an extruder motor (Prusa printers). Those gadgets are spinning due to movement of motor, both clockwise (pulling filament) or counterclockwise (retracting). But all of those things are attached to motor axis by small neodymium magnet (&lt;strong&gt;round, 8x3 mm&lt;/strong&gt;). I searched informations how such magnets affects for stepper motors and I read that magnet field can significantly change magnetic field of the motor. On presented movies for gadgets which I saw, the motor seems to have no trouble with rotating but AFAIK neodymium magnets have really strong magnetic field and I am curious how its centric orientation due to motor axis:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;inhibits rotation&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;if yes, how much it raises the temperature of motor?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;how it affects for electronic of filament sensor?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Currently I use Prusa i3 MK3 printer and during long (~10h) printings an extruder motor is enough hot and I don't want make it hotter. I want to print and attach such &quot;rotation indicator&quot; but the fact of used magnets made me started to thinking about magnetic field of motor. Or maybe those changes are so marginal to think about them?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14794" LastEditorUserId="14794" LastEditDate="2019-03-11T06:14:38.327" LastActivityDate="2019-03-17T20:17:15.913" Title="How neodymium magnet affect (if any) on extruder motor" Tags="|extruder|motor|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8438" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-03-10T12:23:31.877" Score="1" ViewCount="38" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got a specific perl support tree script that I would like to integrate into Slic3r. Does anyone know how to do that? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14797" LastActivityDate="2019-03-10T12:23:31.877" Title="Slic3r - how to combine specific perl code with Slic3r SupportMaterial.pm?" Tags="|3d-models|g-code|slicing|support-structures|scripts|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2019-03-18T12:54:58.477" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8439" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8440" CreationDate="2019-03-10T18:38:49.920" Score="7" ViewCount="35346" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been using my Ender 3 for about four months now and it's been working wonderfully. The print quality is amazing and all the prints are very strong. Then about three weeks ago, my entire system crashed while Ultimaker Cura was open and it lost the profile for my 3D printer. I recreated the profile to the best of my ability with other people's working profiles online, but none of them worked right. I've been getting severe under extrusion in all my prints, and they're incredibly fragile. For now, I've just been printing a 1&quot;x1&quot;x1&quot; test cube. I've tried many steps from other people's posts online to fix the problem, including:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Raising the print temperature for PLA to 200&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Checking the extruder for signs of too little tension or too much tension. I checked, and the PLA has light tooth imprints on it, and no grinding or damage to the filament.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Clearing out the extruder. I disassembled the whole extruder assemble, and flushed all the plastic from each part with a heat gun, and metal pick, and then tried reprinting, but it didn't work.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Trying a newer Ultimaker Cura version. At the time, I was using Ultimaker Cura 3.1 and hadn't updated because it was working well. I then tried the newest stable release of Ultimaker Cura 3.6, with a few different profiles, and then I also tried the beta version of Ultimaker Cura 4.0, but none of these worked.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Increasing the extrusion rate. I incrementally increased the extrusion rate from 100&amp;nbsp;% all the way up to 130&amp;nbsp;%. The prints looked a little better and were a lot stronger, but this still didn't fix it.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Trying a different slicer. I then downloaded Slic3r and created a new profile in that. The prints turned out a lot better, but there was still significant under extruding.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Checking the filament tube for any burns or damage, and ensuring it's inside the extruder assembly all the way.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If anyone can help me figure out what's going on with my printer, I'd really appreciate it!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are some pictures of the prints I've been getting:&#xA;These were made in Ultimaker Cura with different small changes to the profile made&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zZDWV.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zZDWV.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Ultimaker Cura Settings Under Extrusion&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These were made in slic3r with a flow rate adjusted up to 130%&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rV2sO.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rV2sO.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Slic3r Under Extrusion&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These were prints I made before I lost all my settings in Ultimaker Cura.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/V7hie.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/V7hie.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Good Prints&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's some of the material I read/watched and checked before posting myself:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/2931/i-am-experiencing-some-severe-under-extrusion&quot;&gt;I am experiencing some severe under extrusion&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6807/sudden-underextrusion-on-ender3&quot;&gt;Sudden underextrusion on Ender3&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/comments/8vxttn/under_extrusion_on_ender_3_sharing_my_mistake_and/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;r/3DPrinting: Under extrusion on Ender 3&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x35aWmnZ_A0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Fixing a Filament Flow Problem on CR-10 mini, CR-10 or Ender 3 by CHEP&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: Here's my printer profile:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://drive.google.com/file/d/1sn2d9IWmpEiSsuOhOJTkYu7RPEc8xjO1/view?usp=sharing&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Ender 3 Profile Google Drive&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14798" LastEditorUserId="7197" LastEditDate="2019-03-11T15:48:59.867" LastActivityDate="2021-08-21T21:24:58.593" Title="Ender 3 severe under-extrusion" Tags="|print-quality|ultimaker-cura|slic3r|creality-ender-3|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8440" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8439" CreationDate="2019-03-10T20:10:32.530" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is not too rare to create a new machine in Ultimaker Cura to be set to 2.85 mm as this is the default. Also some bugs in the past did reset or assume this diameter unless you manually set it, and unless we know your exact version we can't confirm it is really this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Underextrusion why?&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The 0.55 mm more radius result in an underextrusion due to the pressed through volume, and since &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$V=A\times l$&lt;/span&gt;, we need to see the area to see how severe the underextrusion is for one given extruded length. &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$A_{1.75}=2.405\text{ mm²}$&lt;/span&gt; and &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$A_{2.85}=6.379\text{ mm²}$&lt;/span&gt; are rather obvious, so &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$\frac {\text{real extrusion diameter}} {\text{calculated extrusion diameter}}=\frac{A_{1.75}}{A_{2.85}}=37.7\ \%$&lt;/span&gt;, so only about 40 % of the needed filament is pressed through the nozzle as the slicer thinks it is almost twice the diameter. This matches well with the 130% still being very spotty, as that'd need a much higher factor to compensate for the underextrusion. A compensating extrusion multiplier would be &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$\frac 1 {0.377}=265.25\ \%$&lt;/span&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Fixing&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To fix this, check under filament and set it to 1.75 mm so you force the correct diameter. Remember that filament diameter is &lt;strong&gt;not&lt;/strong&gt; saved in the &lt;em&gt;printer profile&lt;/em&gt; but in the &lt;em&gt;material database&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might need to restart Ultimaker Cura to activate these new settings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:29:41.667" LastActivityDate="2019-03-12T12:47:55.510" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8441" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-03-11T02:06:47.390" Score="0" ViewCount="426" Body="&lt;p&gt;Fairly new Creality Ender 3.  Seems like everything is leveled and snug, belts tightened.  However, some of the sides are coming out stringy.  See the image of this simple dome - you can see some of the areas on the right are pretty nice, but other side is stringy.  Similar story on XYZ cube - e.g. X comes out pretty well, but its opposite side is stringy and separated.  Any ideas?  Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hzUbw.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hzUbw.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14801" LastActivityDate="2019-03-11T02:06:47.390" Title="Inconsistent quality on different sides of the print - Ender 3" Tags="|creality-ender-3|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8442" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-03-11T04:13:25.093" Score="2" ViewCount="1721" Body="&lt;p&gt;If this is a silly question I apologize but I am trying to establish a serial connection between a 3D printer (Ender 3) and an Arduino Nano over the USB port. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am able to connect the 3D printer to a serial monitor on my PC and send G-code to it and control the printer. I am also able to connect my Arduino to the serial monitor and also send and receive strings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I connect the Arduino directly to the 3D printer using a USB cable and separately powering the Arduino the 3D printer does not seem to respond to the G-code being sent over serial. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What am I missing? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14803" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-03-11T07:22:23.600" LastActivityDate="2019-03-11T18:39:48.537" Title="Controlling a 3D printer with another Arduino device over serial" Tags="|arduino|usb|serial-connection|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8443" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8444" CreationDate="2019-03-11T07:41:45.090" Score="2" ViewCount="317" Body="&lt;p&gt;As an electrician newbie I have a question..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Short question&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My power plug is attached to the wall outlet and three wires are at the end of it.. the blue, the brown and the green/yellow oen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How to determine which is the live, zero and ground wire WITHOUT depending on the colouring?&#xA;I want to know this to always be able to check the wiring, if I don't trust it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, I have these sub questions that follow from my situation:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Why does the test screwdriver lit up when connected to the apparant zero line?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How can I determine the live/zero line using a multimeter&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Situation&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My tools:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a test screw driver&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a multimeter&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the ANET A6 manual&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the manual it states that&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;brown is the live wire&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;blue is the zero wire&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;green/yellow is the ground wire&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know that in some countries this colour coding is the standard and can be trusted. I just want to be able to check it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, my first hypothesis would be.. if I put the test screw driver on the live (brown) wire, lay my thumb on the end, the internal bulb would glow.&#xA;This did not happen.&#xA;It did happen when I put it on the zero (blue) wire. So I am a bit confused by this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My second trick was using the multimeter. Using the positive and negative probes to determine the polarity and therefore decide how the current was flowing.&#xA;But there was no sign of polarity... duh.. because I was of course on AC, which is always Alternating.. hence no sign information from a multimeter.&#xA;So, how CAN I use a multimeter to determine the live/zero line? Maybe measure the current from live/zero to ground? Is that a safe option?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PS: my first post on this forum.. so please correct me where needed&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14805" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:29:41.667" LastActivityDate="2019-08-31T09:43:20.320" Title="Anet A6 stock power wires.. the live, the zero and the ground. Which is which" Tags="|anet-a6|wiring|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8444" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8443" CreationDate="2019-03-11T07:49:13.947" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As it is alternating current, why are you interested to know which is which? (I'm referring to the blue and the brown wire, the green/yellow has an obvious purpose) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;E.g. a &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/AC_power_plugs_and_sockets&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;CEE 7/4 plug&lt;/a&gt; can be flipped around in the CEE 7/3 socket. When you flip the plug (180&amp;deg;), the brown and the blue switch places, it is all depending on how the electrician in your home attached the brown and blue wires in the socket and depends on the socket and plug you use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only benefit would be that when you cut the power with a relay, you may want to have the power on the side of the relay, not the printer; but again, that does not matter when you flip the plug 180&amp;deg;. Note that some plugs inhibit rotation, so it also depends on the plug and socket you use and where you are located.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-03-11T10:59:48.363" LastActivityDate="2019-03-11T10:59:48.363" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8445" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8443" CreationDate="2019-03-11T09:45:29.563" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This picture shows the correct wiring for a British 13A mains plug:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/W4EqF.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/W4EqF.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;UK 13-amp mains plug with wiring&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The green/yellow wire must &lt;strong&gt;always&lt;/strong&gt; be connected to the earth terminal (at the top of the plug). This is most important, and will prevent electrocution if something goes wrong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The brown (live) wire should be connected to the fuse, and the blue wire to the remaining terminal. It is true that, since alternating current is being used, the device will likely work if the blue and brown wires are swapped, but it is better to stick with standard practices to avoid confusion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would not use a &quot;test&quot; screwdriver to determine which terminal is &quot;live&quot; in this instance, simply because it is unnecessary. &lt;strong&gt;The live terminal is always the one that the fuse is connected to.&lt;/strong&gt; This is done for safety reasons since the device is automatically disconnected from the live side of the circuit if the fuse blows.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How to wire mains plugs is really beyond the scope of this stack. Watch appropriate YouTube videos if you want to make a competent job of it. The only advice that I will give is to always use a proper fuse of the correct rating for the device. Never use something like a paper-clip. Also, don't use the 13 Amp fuse that comes with the plug. The fuse is there to protect the cable, rather than the device. Most printers will draw less than 5 Amps, and will be supplied with a 5 Amp cable, so use a 5 Amp fuse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, &lt;strong&gt;never work on a plug while it is connected to the power socket&lt;/strong&gt;. This is most foolhardy, even if the socket appears to be switched off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3953" LastEditorUserId="3953" LastEditDate="2019-03-11T10:01:17.397" LastActivityDate="2019-03-11T10:01:17.397" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8447" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8449" CreationDate="2019-03-11T12:38:14.827" Score="2" ViewCount="3969" Body="&lt;p&gt;Over the last two days I have tried everything I could come up with to fix the following issues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It all started with bad bed adhesion.(pic.1) Solutions for these problems are readily available, so I calibrated my Z-axis (did the whole wizard from start to finish again) and started a calibration print over the whole buildplate, getting an interesting result.(pic.2) As you can see some area's are squashed nicely whilst others come off directly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I then started looking for alternative Z-levelling solutions and came across an alternative calibration file (link1), at first glance the results seemed allright, -0,8mm seem to provide the best results (pic.3) however notice the darkened area to the left (could be the high temp of this test? 225c?).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To validate the number I did a full print on -0,8 and this is where it gets weird, the result shows a non uniform transparancy (pic.4) the mechanical properties are also a lot less. I used my caliper to check the printer and all seems to be well within expected ranges.&#xA;The bed is also flat, checked with a ruler for deformaties.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Printing with the first spool of Prusa fillament, do notice some changes in the Z-level calibration print, the edges now bend upwards, this is done with the same Gcode and spool as previous (pic.5). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any advice on what to do next? &#xA;Printing on 210c with fan off for the first layer, test square on 225c, all PLA.&#xA;Cleaned the bed with Acetone (99% pure) before each attempt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Picture 1:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BEr9G.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BEr9G.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;Picture 2:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Jh52H.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Jh52H.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;Picture 3:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/d4wtl.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/d4wtl.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;Picture 4:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WUwgq.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WUwgq.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;Picture 5:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Tqd5r.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Tqd5r.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: So Mick mentioned cleaning the nozzle which helped with the inconsistent first layer. In the end it was me being unaware that Aceton doesn't help with grease, a thorough scrubbing of the buildplate with soap and really hot water helped.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Speny.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Speny.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14687" LastEditorUserId="14687" LastEditDate="2019-03-13T08:03:14.313" LastActivityDate="2019-03-13T12:15:57.683" Title="Prusa I3 mk3 - Not your average inconsistent first layer" Tags="|prusa-i3|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8448" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8430" CreationDate="2019-03-11T15:21:38.457" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;As mentioned, FDM 3D printed parts are flawed for food service and prep use regardless of the material, because of the small gaps between lines where bacteria can grow, and because your printer isn't used in a way to keep it from introducing contaminants into otherwise clean material.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, there are some ways around this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Single-use&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm pretty comfortable using my printer to make items for &lt;strong&gt;one time use&lt;/strong&gt;. If I wanted an icing smoother with a fancy shape for a special cake that I'm not likely to need again soon, I'd go ahead and do that. I would apply all the icing at one time, and then I'd &lt;em&gt;discard the piece&lt;/em&gt;, rather than try to clean and save it. Also note that I'm not talking about a commercial kitchen; this would be for a cake I'd eat myself with friends, rather than sell.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The big thing I've done this way so far (I've had my printer less than a year) is make shaped cookie cutters. I'll print the cutters, use them, and then throw them away. If I want the same shape again some time, I'll re-print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Lining&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other thing you can do with food prep items is print them with the intent to use liners. For example, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1782268&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here is a 3D-printable taco train&lt;/a&gt;, where a train car has grooves to hold  tacos (yum!). It wouldn't be good to put a taco directly in here, but you could use napkins or similar food-safe liner to separate the 3D part from the food. In the case of the icing smoother, you might be able to print the part and wrap it in aluminum foil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12562" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:29:41.667" LastActivityDate="2019-03-11T19:36:59.080" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8449" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8447" CreationDate="2019-03-11T17:59:59.367" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you repeat a test and the problem occurs in the same location, then you probably have a problem with your bed or build plate. However, picture 3 suggests to me that you may have a partially clogged nozzle. Manually extrude some filament. It should fall straight down. If it curls as it comes out of the nozzle, then you have a partial clog. Brass nozzles do wear out, so if you've put some hours on your printer, it might be a good idea to fit a new one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: I meant picture 3, not picture 4.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3953" LastActivityDate="2019-03-11T17:59:59.367" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8450" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8442" CreationDate="2019-03-11T18:39:48.537" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This isn't really a 3D-printing issue as much as it is about Arduino, USB, and how serial connections over USB differ from a generic UART serial connection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a UART-based serial connection, there are only two devices, and both devices are peers - either can send data to the other with no real restrictions as long as the speeds are set correctly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;USB allows multiple devices to be connected, and is much more complicated. One device must be a &quot;host&quot;, which manages everything. The other devices can be much simpler as they don't need to be a host. Typically, your PC is the host, and your keyboard, mouse, memory stick, Arduino, printer, etc. are all just attached devices.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you've managed to connect your Arduino's USB port to your printer's USB port, the problem is most likely that neither device has hardware or software to be a host, so the USB connection won't work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There was a &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;https://store.arduino.cc/usa/arduino-usb-host-shield&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;USB Host Shield&lt;/a&gt;&quot; for Arduino, but is is no longer in production. Perhaps you can still find one somewhere, or somebody else makes an equivalent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is also an Arduino &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.arduino.cc/en/Reference/USBHost&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;USBHost&lt;/a&gt;&quot; library, which is compatible with the Arduino Due only.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5704" LastActivityDate="2019-03-11T18:39:48.537" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8452" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-03-12T14:09:50.113" Score="0" ViewCount="73" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am new here and would like to work on a project to 3D print a precision prototype. What is the most affordable way to do it? How do I go about it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14820" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2019-03-13T17:21:46.390" LastActivityDate="2019-03-13T17:24:54.900" Title="Any video tutorial for 3D printing" Tags="|3d-design|diy-3d-printer|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2019-03-12T22:49:27.963" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8453" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8452" CreationDate="2019-03-12T14:20:06.423" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;These two videos seem to give a good, general, entry-level introduction to the various technologies and processes that are involved in 3D printing:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3LBTkLsjHGQ&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;The Ultimate Beginner's Guide to 3D Printing - Part 1&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VN1RO1Oey-w&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;The Ultimate Beginner's Guide to 3D Printing - Part 2&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4922" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2019-03-13T17:24:54.900" LastActivityDate="2019-03-13T17:24:54.900" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8454" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8452" CreationDate="2019-03-12T18:25:18.830" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;[The question ask asked is vague, but since you are new it is understandable.]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to build a precision prototype then you have to decide on the level of precision that is necessary. There are different types of 3D printers and services available which give various levels of precision and functionality.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fused Filament Fabrication/Fused Deposition Modeling - This is typically a means of producing functional prototypes using plastic filament. In terms of precision it is currently the lest precise, but the most cost effective.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Binder Jetting - This is basically crazy glue with food coloring which is inkjet printed onto a white powder layer by layer (vast oversimplification). Useful for producing prototypes with colours for product mockups but not for functional parts. This is mid the mid point in terms of price and precision. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Stereo Lithography / Photo polymerization  - Lasers cause a liquid resin to harden and stick to each other. Also notable for being the first form of 3D printing, this is the highest precision that is easily attainable. The cost varies based on the provider but it is usually the most expensive option.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on your needs you may find that it is cheaper to develop a single prototype part (just one part not an entire machine) by sending out to a contract manufacturer as opposed to purchasing a 3D printer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are some examples of what to do when:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you want to develop a diamond engagement ring for a customer: Send out to a contract manufacturer, for Stereo Lithography&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you broke part of the cupboard and its easy to design a new one: Consider purchasing a sub $400 USD FFF machine and learn to use it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you are developing a new line of designer sneaker: Send out to a contract manufacturer for Binder Jetting.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you are doing miniature figurines for a stop motion animation television series: Invest in a Binder Jet machine and learn how to use it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my experience, people don't buy a 3D printer until they have held a 3D printed part in their hand or have seen the machinery in person. If you are new, start with a contract manufacturer and when you start spending so much on them that it is equaling the cost of owning a machine, then invest in your own system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12857" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2019-03-13T17:21:09.970" LastActivityDate="2019-03-13T17:21:09.970" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8455" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-03-12T20:19:13.720" Score="5" ViewCount="336" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm using IdeaMaker for slicing my print objects. IdeaMaker start strings have a &gt;T0&amp;lt; standing alone on one line and then &gt;T1&amp;lt; on the next line. What does this accomplish?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14826" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-03-14T07:21:42.927" LastActivityDate="2019-03-14T07:21:42.927" Title="What does a stand alone &quot;T&quot; index value do?" Tags="|marlin|g-code|ideamaker|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8456" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8455" CreationDate="2019-03-12T20:27:48.157" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure what it's doing in your case, but the &quot;T&quot; code is there to select the extruder number. T0 would be the first and T1 would be the second extruder in a multi-extruder setup. I found the information at the end of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.makeit-3d.com/wp-content/uploads/RepRapGcodeCheatSheet.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this cheat sheet&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11242" LastActivityDate="2019-03-12T20:27:48.157" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8457" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8455" CreationDate="2019-03-12T20:41:46.073" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;T stands for &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/G-code#Letter_addresses&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&quot;Tool&quot;&lt;/a&gt; and has its origin in the origins of &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/G-code#Letter_addresses&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;code&gt;.gcode&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/a&gt; being for other automated machine controls. Depending on the machine, everything could be a tool for &lt;code&gt;.gcode&lt;/code&gt;, like an actuator or pump or a spindle motor or a drill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In 3D printers, the T-controlled tool is usually the &lt;strong&gt;extruder motor&lt;/strong&gt;. Convention has it that the indexing always starts at 0, so T0 and T1 are your first and second Extruder respectively. It is the way to choose which tool is used. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a side note: E is not originally intended for extruders but for the feed rate of lathes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2019-03-13T23:58:00.047" LastActivityDate="2019-03-13T23:58:00.047" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8459" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8447" CreationDate="2019-03-13T12:15:57.683" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Prusa i3 is coated with a PEI sheet. PEI and other build plates stick to the build but don't like to be dirty. Fingerprints can build up and create an interference layer of fats that lessen the adhesion to a point the pieces spontaneously pop off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A good cleaning is often needed. For PEI Isopropylic Alcohol is a fast cleaner, but if you can remove the build plate soap and water work too - but take care not to go too hot as PEI can get damaged. For BuildTak and similar, Acetone also can do the job.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When using Gluestick to create a deliberate destroyable adhesion layer (for filaments fusing with PEI that can result in chipping out chunks) clean the surface afterward with a little water. In the choice of gluestick, make sure you get a PVA based one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastActivityDate="2019-03-13T12:15:57.683" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8461" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-03-14T01:12:50.903" Score="3" ViewCount="1370" Body="&lt;p&gt;My Anet A8 reads as 120ish degrees Celsius, but it is set to 200 degrees. I don't know if it is reading the wrong temperature because it still pushes out plastic when I force it. It will climb up and then go back down. I don't know if the hot end it broke or if the thermistor is broke.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14839" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-03-14T07:34:37.300" LastActivityDate="2019-03-14T22:16:04.753" Title="Anet A8 Wrong Hotend Temp" Tags="|anet-a8|hotend|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8462" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8461" CreationDate="2019-03-14T06:02:01.387" Score="2" Body="&lt;h2&gt;You are sitting on a fire risk!&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are using the stock/original firmware, you should &lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;immediately stop printing&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt;. The stock firmware of the Anet A8 has no &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/8466/what-is-thermal-runaway-protection&quot;&gt;thermal runaway protection&lt;/a&gt; (&lt;em&gt;see also &lt;a href=&quot;/a/6953/&quot;&gt;this answer&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/em&gt;), this means it will keep heating until the thermistor senses 200 °C, even if it cannot do that for some reason or another.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When a hotend temperature does not read the correct value, your thermistor in the hotend may not be making correct contact (as you say that it goes up and down). Please ensure that the thermistor is correctly positioned, it makes good contact and the wires correctly fastened.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Similarly applies to the heater cartridge, which can fall out and causing a fire if not properly fastened. Ensure the heater cartridge is properly positioned and held in the heater block.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fluctuations in temperature sometimes are induced by a wrongly positioned fan duct (but generally not that much). The reason why this is not the case here is that you can still push the filament through while it reads about 120 °C; &lt;em&gt;this temperature is generally too low to push filament through&lt;/em&gt;. Apparently the hotend is still hot enough to push filament through while registering a low temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:29:41.667" LastActivityDate="2019-03-14T22:16:04.753" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8463" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2019-03-14T07:33:54.310" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;IdeaMaker is a slicer software created by Raise3D, a 3D printer manufacturer. The software can be used for other printers than Raise3D printers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-03-14T07:33:54.310" LastActivityDate="2019-03-14T07:33:54.310" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8464" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2019-03-14T07:33:54.310" Score="0" Body="Use this tag for questions about the slicing software IdeaMaker." OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-03-14T07:33:54.310" LastActivityDate="2019-03-14T07:33:54.310" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8466" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8467" CreationDate="2019-03-14T12:58:11.420" Score="20" ViewCount="33525" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is Thermal Runaway Protection (TRP) and why should I enable it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How does one do so in Marlin?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2019-07-08T15:35:50.373" LastActivityDate="2020-03-10T11:21:10.387" Title="What is Thermal Runaway Protection?" Tags="|marlin|firmware|safety|knowledgebase|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8467" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8466" CreationDate="2019-03-14T13:14:50.127" Score="17" Body="&lt;h1&gt;What is TRP and how does it work?&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thermal runaway protection is basically self-explaining; it is protection against the temperature getting out of control. Essentially, the firmware checks whether the measured output of the thermistor (&lt;em&gt;What is a thermistor? A thermistor is basically a temperature sensor; it is an electrical component (more specific: a resistor) that has a large reduction of its resistance when heated; it is frequently used for measurement and control as you can link the resistance to the temperature via a table or a curve&lt;/em&gt;) is within an expected range for a certain target value within a certain time frame when heating the hotend or the heated bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;E.g. When you request the hotend or heated bed to a certain temperature, the heater elements are being scheduled/switched on to increase the temperature. If the temperature increase as a result of scheduling the hotend or heated bed are not met in time (settings in the firmware configuration), the printer will halt and heating of the heater elements will stop. The printer needs to be reset after such a failure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;What triggers TRP?&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Common problems that trigger the thermal runaway protection are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a faulty thermistor,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;an incorrectly placed thermistor (e.g. not making good enough contact with the heater block),&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;including falling out&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a loose heater cartridge,&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;including falling out&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;faulty connectors,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;faulty or partially broken wires,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;basically, anything that interrupts either heating or the measurement of the signal.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Why should TRP be active?&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thermal runaway protection is mainly meant to prevent fire hazards by stopping the heater cartridge when it might have fallen out of the heater block and is trying to set the whole surroundings on fire. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To illustrate the point: This happens if Thermal Runaway Protection is disabled, and the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thissmarthouse.net/dont-burn-your-house-down-3d-printing-a-cautionary-tale/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;associated story&lt;/a&gt;. Luckily this one did not result in a loss of life and home, but it could have - and the owner was able to do some forensic examination on what caused the fire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eJput.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eJput.png&quot; alt=&quot;Anet A8 that has caught fire&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;How to activate TRP in Marlin firmware?&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please make sure that you have the configuration lines in the Thermal Runaway Protection section (466-485) of your &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/blob/1.1.x/Marlin/Configuration.h&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Configuration.h&lt;/a&gt; file uncommented &lt;em&gt;(no // in front of the lines starting with #define THERMAL_...)&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&#xA;//===========================================================================&#xA;//======================== Thermal Runaway Protection =======================&#xA;//===========================================================================&#xA;&#xA;/**&#xA; * Thermal Protection provides additional protection to your printer from damage&#xA; * and fire. Marlin always includes safe min and max temperature ranges which&#xA; * protect against a broken or disconnected thermistor wire.&#xA; *&#xA; * The issue: If a thermistor falls out, it will report the much lower&#xA; * temperature of the air in the room, and the the firmware will keep&#xA; * the heater on.&#xA; *&#xA; * If you get &quot;Thermal Runaway&quot; or &quot;Heating failed&quot; errors the&#xA; * details can be tuned in Configuration_adv.h&#xA; */&#xA;&#xA;#define THERMAL_PROTECTION_HOTENDS // Enable thermal protection for all extruders&#xA;#define THERMAL_PROTECTION_BED     // Enable thermal protection for the heated bed&#xA;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that Marlin 2.x has an additional protection for the heating chamber:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&#xA;#define THERMAL_PROTECTION_CHAMBER // Enable thermal protection for the heated chamber&#xA;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This should generally be enough to enable TRP on your printer, fine tuning can be done by changing the time constant and the temperature increase in the file &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/blob/1.1.x/Marlin/Configuration_adv.h&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Configuration_adv.h&lt;/a&gt; in the section:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&#xA;//===========================================================================&#xA;//=============================Thermal Settings  ============================&#xA;//===========================================================================&#xA;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, it is advised to not change these values unless you are absolutely certain; e.g. if your heating cartridge is not powerful enough and you are getting printer halts. When getting false-positive printer halts according to the &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/blob/1.1.x/Marlin/Configuration_adv.h&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Marlin firmware&lt;/a&gt; you could:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;* If you get false positives for &quot;Thermal Runaway&quot;, increase&lt;br&gt;&#xA;* THERMAL_PROTECTION_HYSTERESIS and/or THERMAL_PROTECTION_PERIOD &lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;How to test if TRP is active on my printer?&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To test if thermal runaway protection is enabled on your printer, you can disconnect the heater element of the hotend or the heated bed while printing a print or sending temperature commands to the printer over USB using a terminal to send commands directly to the printer. You can disconnect the heater element while the printer is cold (before start) and also when the heater element is heating up. No heating of the nozzle will take place, so after the period defined by the time constant set in the firmware, the printer will halt if thermal runaway protection is enabled. Power down the machine and reconnect the wires, it is not advised to put them back in on a running machine, as one might touch the open wires; when the printer halted, you should power down or reset the printer anyways. If the printer did not halt, power it down as quickly as possible - TRP is disabled.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Further Considerations&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Besides activating thermal runaway protection, it is always a good idea to install a smoke detector and a fire extinguisher in the surroundings of the 3D printer: the smoke detector over it, the extinguisher within arms reach of the door leading to the room.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-03-10T11:21:10.387" LastActivityDate="2020-03-10T11:21:10.387" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8468" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8466" CreationDate="2019-03-14T14:24:00.363" Score="4" Body="&lt;h2&gt;What is Thermal Runaway?&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's look at a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qVjWg2vuWzk&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Thermal Runaway Test (#2)&lt;/a&gt; performed by one Chris Bate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this video the experimenter drove the heating element non-stop until disaster. The Nichrome wire in the heating element melts at about 1,400 °C. Only once it melts, will the circuit will break and the current stop. The aluminum heating block however, melts at 660.3 °C; long before the nichrome melts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Thermal Runaway Protection&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thermal runaway protection is a piece of code in the firmware of the printer that checks to make sure that once power is being applied to the heater, the thermistor's resistance is changing within a specified frame (time and amount). This is the basic form of a &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Control_loop&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;control loop&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the control system is implemented mechanically then it is called a &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thermostat&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;thermostat&lt;/a&gt;, usually via a bimetal strip.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12857" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:29:41.667" LastActivityDate="2019-07-08T15:51:31.220" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8469" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8461" CreationDate="2019-03-14T15:15:36.700" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Without any other information, the highest odds are that the fan is blowing on the hot end.    If the temp drops when the fan is on, and rises when the fan is off, then simply re-position the fan nozzle.    If that's not the problem, check the thermistor.   If that's not it, check the termination (tighten the screws) of the hot-end wires at the control board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next, check the control board.   If there's any indication that it's the board, one potential solution is to add a MOSFET (&lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprint.wiki/reprap/electronics/heatbed_mosfet&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;see the link&lt;/a&gt;).     Even if the control board isn't the problem, I would add the MOSFET.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5629" LastEditorUserId="5629" LastEditDate="2019-03-14T17:36:45.283" LastActivityDate="2019-03-14T17:36:45.283" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8470" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8471" CreationDate="2019-03-14T15:27:39.700" Score="4" ViewCount="1783" Body="&lt;p&gt;This &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/q/8466/13883&quot;&gt;question&lt;/a&gt; asks about the reasoning behind thermal runaway protection and how to turn it on. However, how do I know if my printer does not have protection in the first place? Either because it is shut off by default or, if such printers exist, is not a feature of the printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, the Creality CR-10S, a popular family of printers, has TRP not enabled (or deactivated) for some reason. Since there are a handful of printers (Creality, Tevo, Anet, Prusa, Ultimaker, etc) that seem pretty ubiquitous in the community and are recommended for beginners, it seems like it'd be handy to know whether or not any given printer has this safety feature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13883" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2019-03-16T15:21:08.210" LastActivityDate="2019-03-17T10:34:16.833" Title="Are there printers that don't have thermal runaway protection?" Tags="|safety|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8471" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8470" CreationDate="2019-03-14T15:55:39.590" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;At the time of this writing (March 2019), many (if not most) cheap printers from the Far East are not delivered with Thermal Runaway Protection enabled as Marlin had this feature disabled as default for a long time (it was for certain so in April of 2018).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know that Anet printers (A8 from experience) and the Creality Ender-3 printer (experience from another member) come with TRP disabled in the firmware when shipped from the factory. &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ckQ9UWlmdVA&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Thomas Sanladerer&lt;/a&gt; did a test on his machines and found that it was disabled on the Creality CR-10, Anet E-10 and A-8 had it disabled while the Mini Fabrikator v1 did have no Mintemp/Maxtemp but Thermal Runaway. Even the quite expensive BCN3D Sigma R17 had it disabled in April of 2018 on default.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Among the printers that come with Thermal Runaway Protection enabled are the PrusaResearch builds of the Original Prusa i3.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To test if it is enabled on your printer, you could disconnect the heater elements prior or during printing, see &lt;a href=&quot;/a/8467/&quot;&gt;this answer&lt;/a&gt; or the process explained in Thomas Sanladerer's Video above or from the start of his &lt;a href=&quot;https://toms3d.org/2018/05/09/make-your-3d-printer-safer-marlin-configuration/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;safety tutorial&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;How to test if TRP is active on my printer?&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To test if thermal runaway protection is enabled on your printer, you&#xA;can disconnect the heater element of the hotend or the heated bed. You&#xA;can disconnect the heater element while the printer is cold (before&#xA;start) and also when the heater element is heating up. No heating of&#xA;the nozzle will take place, so after the period defined by the time&#xA;constant set in the firmware, the printer will halt if thermal runaway&#xA;protection is enabled. Power down the machine and reconnect the wires,&#xA;it is not advised to put them back in; when the printer halted, you&#xA;should power down or reset the printer anyways. If the printer did not&#xA;halt, power it down as quickly as possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:29:41.667" LastActivityDate="2019-03-17T10:34:16.833" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8473" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-03-15T18:32:12.950" Score="2" ViewCount="78" Body="&lt;p&gt;Several scientific papers study FR-PLA (fire resistant PLA) in which Aluminium Hydroxide nanoparticles are melt blended into the PLA (example source: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.researchgate.net/publication/326872529_Advances_in_Flame_Retardant_PolyLactic_Acid&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Advances in Flame Retardant Poly(Lactic Acid)&lt;/a&gt;. Would spraying the nanoparticles (dispersed in a liquid -&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.us-nano.com/inc/sdetail/1094&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;source&lt;/a&gt; - maybe non flammable silicon oil) onto a 3D printed PLA help with fire resistance or not make a difference? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12999" LastEditorUserId="12999" LastEditDate="2019-03-15T18:39:58.667" LastActivityDate="2019-03-15T18:39:58.667" Title="Spraying aluminium hydroxide nanoparticles onto PLA as fire retardant?" Tags="|pla|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="6" ClosedDate="2019-03-18T15:13:07.767" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8474" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-03-15T19:27:40.177" Score="2" ViewCount="12140" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've recently acquired a Flashforge Adventurer 3 and am having difficulty printing with ABS. The initial layers seem to lay and stay pretty well, though after a few more moments, one side will peel up from the heated platform. I'd like to know if anyone has optimal and tested temperatures for the use of ABS on my printer for the nozzle and platform?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've used FlashPrint for slicing my objects using the following options:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Supports: Disable,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Raft: enable,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Resolution: Standard,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Layer Heights: 0.18&amp;nbsp;mm,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;First Layer Height: 0.27&amp;nbsp;mm,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Perimeter Shells: 2,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Top Solid Layers: 4,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bottom Solid Layers: 3,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fill Density: 15&amp;nbsp;%, Hexagon, Every 2 Layers,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Print Speed: 60&amp;nbsp;mm/s,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Travel Speed: 80&amp;nbsp;mm/s,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Extruder: 225&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Platform: 70&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cooling Fan Controls: Automatic,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Nozzle Dia.: 0.4&amp;nbsp;mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14855" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-09-17T11:51:01.690" LastActivityDate="2019-11-24T17:50:57.497" Title="Printing temperatures for ABS on a Flashforge Adventurer 3" Tags="|abs|flashforge-adventurer-3|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8475" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8474" CreationDate="2019-03-16T02:45:11.163" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The most commonly used print temperature range for ABS is 220 to 240 °C with the major bulk around 230 °C. Some filaments are blended with inhibitors or PC, increasing their print temperature to up to 260 °C. Note that the color of the filament just as the brand can have an impact on the print temperature!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The most commonly used bed temperature for ABS start at least at 80 °C. &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.matterhackers.com/articles/printing-tips-&amp;amp;-tricks:-abs-bed-adhesion&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;MatterHackers&lt;/a&gt; suggest 85-90 °C.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your bed is particularly bad at getting adhesion, you might want to clean the bed of residues and fingerprints and relevel the bed. If that is not enough and you use a glass bed, a slurry of ABS in Acetone could come in handy. If you have a glass bed, the slurry is pretty much the best option.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Print cooling is a bane on ABS - the stuff shrinks too fast if cooled, resulting in the parts breaking loose!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2019-03-16T16:17:01.740" LastActivityDate="2019-03-16T16:17:01.740" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8476" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7756" CreationDate="2019-03-16T03:00:07.743" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Reading your print settings, I noticed some oddities:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;215 °C&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;raft&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These are settings one does not expect for PLA but seem reasonable for ABS. The 215 °C could be reasonable if&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the melt zone is extremely short and partially insulated (Makerbot Mk 10 style)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the PLA is a blend with a particularly high melting temperature&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Common PLA is printed with&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;190-200°C nozzle temperature in most e3d-v6 derivates and &amp;quot;Mk 8&amp;quot;&lt;sup&gt;*&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;60 °C bed temperature, when available&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;no raft but possibly a brim to aid in getting a spatula under the print&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;cleaning the build platform of residual fingerprints with Isopropyic alcohol or acetone is always adviseable&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a glass or metal print surface might get better adhesion from priming it with:&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;PVA-Gluestick/3dLac/Hairspray&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a fresh painters tape, but you &lt;strong&gt;need&lt;/strong&gt; to re-level to include it!&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a BuildTak (or clone) surface does &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; need additional settings&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;* As far as I know, that Mk 8 does not reference which manufacturer designed this thing, which makes it a kinda nonsensical naming. Mk 8 is short for Mark 8, so by definition the 8th iteration of a specific product.&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2020-09-09T09:58:18.850" LastActivityDate="2020-09-09T09:58:18.850" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8477" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-03-16T05:58:54.750" Score="1" ViewCount="79" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 3d printer without a firmware. It's a Wanhao Duplicator I3. &#xA;I try to upload a version, but I have a little problem, at uploading on melzi board, it's a V03 version. &#xA;I try this tutorial : &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ejpSniiJejI&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ejpSniiJejI&lt;/a&gt; &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rXei7.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14860" LastActivityDate="2019-03-16T05:58:54.750" Title="Firmware upload" Tags="|diy-3d-printer|firmware|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8480" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8481" CreationDate="2019-03-16T20:13:59.513" Score="4" ViewCount="15064" Body="&lt;p&gt;When printing cube.gcode using Pronterface I get:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Print started at: 23:07:31&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After 8 seconds I get:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Error:Printer halted. kill() called!&#xA;Error:Printer halted. kill() called!&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the reason?&#xA;How can I see logs?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additional information:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I connected only three motors, and set the following in Configuration.h of Marlin Firmware:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#define TEMP_SENSOR_0 999&#xA;...&#xA;#define TEMP_SENSOR_BED 999&#xA;...&#xA;#define X_MIN_ENDSTOP_INVERTING true // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.&#xA;...&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Also for min max for XYZ)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In 8 second X motor and Z motor were running.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://drive.google.com/open?id=1ePtdnp2bPZXrOXZcE9inYSxHUbInyVnb&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;This&lt;/a&gt; is the link to G-Code print file (cube.gcode).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm using Marlin 1.1.x on a Arduino Mega 2560 + RAMPS 1.4 without endstops.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14838" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-03-17T13:07:02.727" LastActivityDate="2022-03-16T03:16:22.457" Title="Error:Printer halted. kill() called!" Tags="|marlin|troubleshooting|pronterface|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8481" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8480" CreationDate="2019-03-17T00:05:58.430" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your G-code file contains the &lt;code&gt;G28&lt;/code&gt; command to home the printer, as you do not have endstops, execution of this command fails. If you do not use endstops, you should never home the printer, instead you must position the print head at the origin yourself (generally this would be at coordinate [x=0, y=0, z=&quot;paper thickness&quot;]) and remove homing commands from your G-code file.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2019-03-17T00:05:58.430" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8482" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8485" CreationDate="2019-03-17T02:26:19.157" Score="4" ViewCount="16439" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have three stepper motors.&#xA;One Nema 17 - 2.4 ohm, the second smaller noname from color printer - 9.5 ohm and third the smallest noname from cdrom - 10.5 ohm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have connected them to arduino mega 2560 with ramps 1.4(set to 1/32 micro stepping) and drivers drv8825. &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/8480/errorprinter-halted-kill-called&quot;&gt;See my previous question.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After some time (less than one minute) the first is cold. The second motor is hot. And the third is very hot. I can not even touch it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What can I do to fix it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14838" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2019-03-17T10:25:53.600" LastActivityDate="2019-03-19T00:57:42.723" Title="After some time stepper motor is hot" Tags="|marlin|diy-3d-printer|troubleshooting|ramps-1.4|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8483" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8482" CreationDate="2019-03-17T10:32:18.007" Score="0" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Problem statement&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your RAMPs board is supplying your drivers all with similar voltages, with the basic settings calculated for a NEMA 17. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, we got different Resistances R, so why do they heat differently?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Physics background: energy transformation and dissipation&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Resistance can be described as &quot;friction of electrons in the conductor&quot; to some degree. When electrons flow through a wire, then a current &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$I$&lt;/span&gt; is trying to equalize a potential difference &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$U$&lt;/span&gt;. A flowing current transforms the kinetic energy of the electrons (&lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$\propto U$&lt;/span&gt;) into an electromagnetic field and heat from the resistance. The electromagnetic field then is used to spin a rotor together with the magnets in the motor, which transforms the energy in the field into kinetic energy again. The end result is, that the kinetic energy of the electrons is transformed into the motion of the motor and heat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Can we get the Current?&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;OR: &quot;What if there was no driver?&quot;&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How does Resistance figure into all this? Well, Ohms Law is there: &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$U=RI$&lt;/span&gt;. With it, one can solve how much current I flows through an aperture of known resistance R and voltage U. The operation of the circuits that contain a &lt;a href=&quot;http://robocup.idi.ntnu.no/wiki/images/c/c6/PL15S020.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;CD stepper motor&lt;/a&gt; is usually 5 V, while 12 V is used for &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mosaic-industries.com/embedded-systems/microcontroller-projects/stepper-motors/specifications&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;NEMA 17&lt;/a&gt; and the typical steppers from Printer/scanner combos.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Those results wouldn't match the currents they are operated on as the motors are supplied via a motor driver chipset. We can look up the spec sheets to get a short glimpse of how they might dissipate heat in both constant voltage and constant current setups. Most stepper driver adjusts the voltage so we get constant current but there might be some cases one wants constant voltage. To estimate their heat generation, one needs...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Joules Formula of electric Heating&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Constant Voltage case&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Joules Formula of electric heating is written as &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$H=I^2Rt$&lt;/span&gt;, which gives us Energy in Joules. We can make it easier on us and drop the time to get the derivate power of electric heating. &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$P=\frac{H}{t}= I^2\ R= U \ I=\frac {U^2} {R}$&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$P={12\ \text V}\times {0.4\ \text A}=4.8\ \text {W}$&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$P=\frac{144\ \text V^2}{9.5\ \Omega}=15.14\ \text {W}$&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$P=\frac{25\ \text V^2}{10\ \Omega}=2.5\ \text {W}$&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;if we throw &lt;strong&gt;12 V&lt;/strong&gt; at the poor small stepper though...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$P=\frac{144\ \text V^2}{10\ \Omega}=14.4\ \text {W}$&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;How did the small one survive this torture? I have no idea!&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Constant Current case&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, that is pretty much &quot;constant voltage&quot; but the stepper drivers used try to give always a set constant current to the motors. For most motors I have found, this is apparently in the area around 0.5 A, which gives us a better estimation&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$P={0.25\ \text A^2}\times {2.4\ \Omega}=0.6\ \text {W}$&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$P={0.25\ \text A^2}\times {9.5\ \Omega}=2.375\ \text {W}$&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$P={0.25\ \text A^2}\times {10.5\ \Omega}=2.625\ \text {W}$&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If they all are operated at the same, set current (with adjusted voltage to match that), we get about a factor 4 for the heat generation on the middle and 4.3 on the CD stepper. Even with a higher current, the factors for heat dissipation are what is really interesting here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Heating and temperature&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another small part of the answer is the mass of the motor and when it was touched. The thermal energy &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$E_T$&lt;/span&gt; in a whole object is &lt;em&gt;not directly&lt;/em&gt; equal to the temperature &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$T$&lt;/span&gt; of the object, it is just proportional to it but also the specific heat capacity &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$c$&lt;/span&gt; of the body... all in all we get for an amount of energy &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$Q$&lt;/span&gt; deposited in an object &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$\text Q = \text m\ \text c\ \Delta\text T$&lt;/span&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming that c is equal for the motors, one can do a quick estimation with typical weights via &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$\Delta\text T \propto \frac H m$&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A typical NEMA 17 motor weighs about 280 grams while the typical CD-drive stepper (PL15S-020-PNA9) weighs 19 grams.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You see, the smaller steppers not only dissipates more heat, it also heats up faster than the chunky NEMA 17. The reason why after a short time the smaller one with not that much more heating than the big one felt considerably hotter is, that there is less mass that needs to be heated up: it might be already at its maximum temperature while the middle one still is heating up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;All in all&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; a marlin issue but one from your material choice. Getting all similar motors makes motion control all the much easier, but you are not necessarily in danger of burning the motors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To cool the motors...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;figure out what current I the smaller motors want to be operated on and adjust your setup to that, so to stay safe.&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;there are potentiometers for this on most boards.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;mount a heatsink on the motors, increasing their effective thermal mass and their ability to dissipate the heat to the room around by increasing the surface area.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2019-03-19T00:57:42.723" LastActivityDate="2019-03-19T00:57:42.723" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8484" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8301" CreationDate="2019-03-17T10:48:04.680" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I could finally solve the issue. Calling &lt;code&gt;openscad&lt;/code&gt; from command line with parameters does NOT work with the AppImage I used. It works fine with a &quot;standard&quot; installation, though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for your support.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10070" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-03-19T10:11:10.503" LastActivityDate="2019-03-19T10:11:10.503" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8485" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8482" CreationDate="2019-03-17T11:18:45.663" Score="8" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The second motor is hot. And the third is very hot. I can not even touch it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is to some degree, completely normal and expected. From the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.oyostepper.com/images/upload/File/17HS19-1684S1.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;datasheet for a typical NEMA 17 stepper&lt;/a&gt;, the rated temperature rise is 80 °C above ambient and the maximum operating temperature is 130 °C (implying an ambient temperature of 50 °C). It is normal that stepper motors (in general) get a bit hot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;Too hot to touch&quot; is still relatively cold. 60 °C is already too hot to touch, and that's only a 40 °C rise above a 20 °C ambient temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can reduce the temperature rise of the motors by reducing the current they receive. The stepper driver has a small potentiometer that can be turned to adjust the current, but keep in mind that doing so will also reduce the torque of the motors and thus they might skip steps if you reduce the current too much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Technical details:&lt;/em&gt; Note that stepper motor drivers used in 3D printers are &lt;em&gt;constant current&lt;/em&gt; drivers, and the little potentiometer controls the current. If you had not paid much attention to this potentiometer, the drivers might all have been set for the same constant current of &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$1.0\ \text A$&lt;/span&gt;. The stepper driver would (to achieve the same constant current) send a higher voltage to the higher resistance motors. This would imply a power dissipation of &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$2.4\ \text W$&lt;/span&gt; in the Nema 17, and a power dissipation of &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$10.5\ \text W$&lt;/span&gt; in the small stepper. &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$2.4\ \text W$&lt;/span&gt; in the Nema 17 would only heat it up by about &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$20\ °\text C$&lt;/span&gt; above ambient. A dissipation of &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$10\ \text W$&lt;/span&gt; in the small stepper, which also has much less surface area to dissipate the power, would heat it up by a lot (and probably, given that you didn't fry it, the current was set lower -- or a technical peculiarity limited the current given that the motor likely also has very low inductance).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2019-03-18T22:41:16.237" LastActivityDate="2019-03-18T22:41:16.237" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8486" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-03-17T11:54:34.550" Score="3" ViewCount="838" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm operating my Prusa i3 MK3 through Octoprint. Basically, this means I can start prints from remote. However, there's the firmware version warning which requires me to press the knob and confirm that message.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I now found a line of G-Code in Printer Settings / Custom G-code which is probably doing this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;M115 U3.6.0 ; tell printer latest fw version&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not very familiar with G-Code yet, so before I remove that line, I wanted to know whether that's all I need to do or if there's something else to consider.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1570" LastActivityDate="2019-03-17T12:38:06.793" Title="How to remove firmware warning" Tags="|prusa-i3|slic3r|firmware|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8487" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8486" CreationDate="2019-03-17T12:12:34.290" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Removing that line will not affect your printer, except that it will get rid of the warning displayed on the screen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I wanted to know [...] if there's something else to consider.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should probably upgrade your firmware to the latest version to benefit from a couple of bugfixes and performance increases.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2019-03-17T12:38:06.793" LastActivityDate="2019-03-17T12:38:06.793" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8488" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-03-17T19:16:10.417" Score="3" ViewCount="383" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a heavily modified DiscoEasy 200 from Dagoma, see picture:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XVfL4.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XVfL4.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The heatbed is mounted on 4 springs, on top of the original plate. I made sure the X carriage was parallel to the table. I then tried to level the bed manually, with the 4 springs: I pushed the nozzle into each corner of the bed, and used the paper-gauge method to adjust the springs so that the bed would always be at the same distance of the nozzle. I then setup the Z-offset on the machine and tried to print a mainstream bed leveling test from thingiverse. I use a 4 points auto bed leveling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And I have a systematic problem. &lt;strong&gt;Every time&lt;/strong&gt; I try the bed leveling test, it seems the right side of the bed is lower than the left one. The front and rear right corners seem to be lower than on the left side. I tried to expand the springs of the front and rear right corners, but the auto bed leveling at the beginning of my prints re-introduces the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The right side seems to be ~100 µm lower than what it should be. It's not a lot, but it's enough for prints to fail.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can't figure out what the problem is. Do you have any idea? it's driving me crazy to not understand where the problem comes from.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14188" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2019-03-18T12:43:23.170" LastActivityDate="2019-03-25T22:43:33.143" Title="Auto bed leveling: systematic slope" Tags="|bed-leveling|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8489" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8436" CreationDate="2019-03-17T20:17:15.913" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The best way to know is placing the magnet on the shaft; if you see that motor starts shaking or stops this mean that you affects the motor operation, but I think if any magnet interference can be deprecated due internal coils of the motor during operation. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The motor works with some coils in the rotor and some magnets in the stator (motor frame). But the shaft is to far from the coils to be affected for the magnetism of one small neodimiun magnet which needs at least 7mm to trap another small metal objet or for induction sensing and 2mm as maximum for creating electrical flows (generation); this values are afected if the magnet is placed over other metal part reducing his atraction field, and the armor is too big for an small magnet 8x3mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can attach some indicator with a double sided adhesive tape (3M) if still are worried about affecting your extruder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your motor extruder is heating during extended usage periods you should adjust the motor current, for example: you motors is rated 0.5A you should calibarte the current for 0.48A or 0.45; this could reduce the torque force of the motor by a little. Or maybe the current current :D is calibrated above 0.5A thats way you are getting over heating.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4454" LastActivityDate="2019-03-17T20:17:15.913" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8490" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-03-17T22:47:37.623" Score="1" ViewCount="2275" Body="&lt;p&gt;OpenSCAD suggests that &quot;object may not be a valid 2-manifold&quot; but it looks perfectly fine in OpenSCAD and in Meshlab.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Have looked through the file several times, and cannot find any point or line intersections, they all overlap in 3D.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there some useful software for diagnosing this? It seems to me it ought to be trivial to for example highlight the offending volumes, rather than just print a general error message with no details whatsoever.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit&lt;/strong&gt;: slicing it in Cura works fine also.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9201" LastEditorUserId="9201" LastEditDate="2019-03-17T23:47:20.733" LastActivityDate="2019-03-18T12:43:05.927" Title="OpenSCAD &quot;not valid 2-manifold&quot; useful information" Tags="|openscad|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8491" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8490" CreationDate="2019-03-18T00:36:39.527" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Occasionally, a model created in OpenSCAD will have, as you suggest, overlapping segments. Often enough, this will generate the message you receive. OpenSCAD has an implied union function when it comes to independent objects, but if you wish to clear those errors, experiment with explicit union statements where you have joining objects. It may be necessary to join only one pair at a time to clear the error.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2019-03-18T12:43:05.927" LastActivityDate="2019-03-18T12:43:05.927" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8493" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-03-18T08:37:50.953" Score="10" ViewCount="5866" Body="&lt;p&gt;The bottom 1-6 layers of my prints always bulge, like an enlarged elephant foot effect. I've tried all the fixes for elephants foot to no avail. I'm using:&#xA;XYZPrinting DaVinci Jr 1.0 Pro with their own brand filament (1.75&amp;nbsp;mm), nozzle: 0.4&amp;nbsp;mm, tried various layer heights 0.1-0.3&amp;nbsp;mm, with temperatures 190-205&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C. It has a non-heated bed, using tape as an adhesive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Problem can be seen here:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RdpqL.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RdpqL.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Part showing bulged out bottom layers&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sH3MW.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sH3MW.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Part showing bulged out bottom layers&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14879" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-04-04T21:28:01.480" LastActivityDate="2020-04-04T21:28:01.480" Title="How to fix bulging first layers of print?" Tags="|print-quality|troubleshooting|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8495" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8488" CreationDate="2019-03-18T12:46:17.097" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Did you check if your bed is parallel to the gantry? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It can happen that after leveling one side and moving  to the other the adjustment there puts the first side out of alignment - I level my bed by doing some couple turns&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastActivityDate="2019-03-18T12:46:17.097" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8496" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8482" CreationDate="2019-03-18T18:17:18.713" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Unless you have changed the factory stepper driver settings, they will all be set to deliver the same CURRENT to the motors.  Stepper drivers operate as constant current supplies, so the voltage supply does not determine the power sent to the motor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The power dissipation in a circuit is the current squared times the resistance.  &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$P = I^2 R$&lt;/span&gt;. Because the current is constant, the 10.5-ohm motor will dissipate over four (4) times the power of the 2.4-ohm motor and will get much hotter more quickly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2082" LastEditorUserId="26" LastEditDate="2019-03-18T20:29:50.990" LastActivityDate="2019-03-18T20:29:50.990" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8497" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-03-18T21:40:27.017" Score="9" ViewCount="52577" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a new BLTouch that is setup (using Marlin 1.8.7) but I want to increase the probing grid from a 3x3 to something like a 5x5. I am using bilinear leveling with a 3x3 grid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How would I go about changing that?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14883" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-03-19T10:39:33.923" LastActivityDate="2021-05-26T18:38:34.520" Title="How to increase the amount of probing points for a BLTouch sensor in Marlin firmware?" Tags="|marlin|bed-leveling|z-probe|bltouch|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8498" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8497" CreationDate="2019-03-19T05:12:03.537" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;You need to change the constant value(s) in your &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/blob/1.1.x/Marlin/Configuration.h&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Configuration.h&lt;/a&gt; file of your Marlin version from:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&#xA;// Set the number of grid points per dimension.&#xA;  #define GRID_MAX_POINTS_X 3&#xA;  #define GRID_MAX_POINTS_Y GRID_MAX_POINTS_X&#xA;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;to:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&#xA;// Set the number of grid points per dimension.&#xA;  #define GRID_MAX_POINTS_X 5&#xA;  #define GRID_MAX_POINTS_Y GRID_MAX_POINTS_X&#xA;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This shows that to go from a 3x3 grid to a 5x5 grid you only need to change one value. Do note that you can set &lt;code&gt;GRID_MAX_POINTS_Y&lt;/code&gt; to any value other than &lt;code&gt;GRID_MAX_POINTS_X&lt;/code&gt;; replacing &lt;code&gt;GRID_MAX_POINTS_X&lt;/code&gt; in the line with &lt;code&gt;GRID_MAX_POINTS_Y&lt;/code&gt; to 4 would yield a 5x4 probe grid:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&#xA;// Set the number of grid points per dimension.&#xA;  #define GRID_MAX_POINTS_X 5&#xA;  #define GRID_MAX_POINTS_Y 4&#xA;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-03-19T10:09:34.397" LastActivityDate="2019-03-19T10:09:34.397" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8500" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-03-19T11:43:28.750" Score="3" ViewCount="197" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to print a calibration cube from PLA using a 70&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C heated build platform on a Prusa i3 Pro W. This results in:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/G00Um.jpg)&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/G00Um.jpg)&quot; alt=&quot;Calibration cube print failed&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please explain why it prints like this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14890" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-03-19T12:36:56.737" LastActivityDate="2019-03-19T20:39:07.390" Title="Printer fails to print a cube" Tags="|prusa-i3|troubleshooting|adhesion|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8501" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8500" CreationDate="2019-03-19T11:52:33.353" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are multiple issues that cause this result.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, your nozzle is to far from the bed. This can be seen by the curly deposited filament on the build plate (I guess that is the brim or the skirt). Please properly level the bed and position the nozzle at a distance of a plain A4 paper as best as possible (should be doable as you have a glass sheet that are usually very flat as a result of the production process to make glass).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The second problem you face is layer shift. You see that the squares are printed further and further to the left, the print head does not return to original position. Layer shift is usually caused by improper belt tension or a loose grub screw of the belt pulley. &lt;a href=&quot;/a/8167/&quot;&gt;This answer&lt;/a&gt; describes layer shifting in more detail. &lt;a href=&quot;/q/8166/&quot;&gt;This question&lt;/a&gt; may be helpful too, the answer contains some references to layer shifting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-03-19T11:57:37.543" LastActivityDate="2019-03-19T11:57:37.543" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8502" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8500" CreationDate="2019-03-19T20:39:07.390" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The layer shift can also be caused by the stepper motor &quot;skipping&quot; when it hits an obstruction.  The obstruction can be a loop or ridge of filament sticking up higher than it should be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As Oscar suggests, the first step is always to make the first-layer-thickness be right.  This is often called &quot;bed leveling&quot;, but really it is making sure that the bed defines the z=0 plane that the firmware is expecting.  If it isn't planar, if it isn't constant Z (ie., it tilts in any direction), or it isn't at zero, problems follow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems to have mostly shifted in X, so start with that motor and belt.  Have you adjusted the tension correctly?  Is the motor current set correctly?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other things can also cause trouble, such as:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A poorly mounted extruder that favors one direction&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bad slicer parameters that command movement faster than the printer's ability&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bad configuration parameters which call for acceleration or velocities beyond the printer's ability.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are the slicer settings matched to the printer?  If this is a commercial printer, are you using a profile from the manufacturer?  If this is your design, or heavily modded, have you tried de-tuning the slicer parameters and/or the configuration parameters?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any debugging proceeds from the first step, so adjust the Z=0 plane and see if you can print a uniform, single layer print covering the while bed.  When that is good, you are most of the way to victory.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2082" LastActivityDate="2019-03-19T20:39:07.390" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8504" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8505" CreationDate="2019-03-20T07:54:06.297" Score="4" ViewCount="3385" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to know if it is possible to schedule a 3D Print to start at a specified time so that I don't have to press start. &#xA;&lt;br/&gt;&#xA;My 3D Printer has an Arduino mega based RAMPS 1.4 control board &amp;amp; is connected to a Raspberry Pi 3B running OctoPi 0.15.1&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14894" LastActivityDate="2019-03-20T12:15:49.020" Title="Can I schedule prints to start at a specified time?" Tags="|octoprint|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8505" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8504" CreationDate="2019-03-20T12:07:51.867" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a few options to delay starting using either the OctoPrint environment or directly use G-code for this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The use of G-code is probably the most simple for you to implement. The &lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#G4:_Dwell&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;code&gt;G4&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/a&gt; command defines a &quot;dwell&quot; or pausing period for the next command to start:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZRBGP.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZRBGP.png&quot; alt=&quot;G4 Dwell G-code&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on the firmware you use, you can use the &lt;code&gt;P&lt;/code&gt; or &lt;code&gt;S&lt;/code&gt; parameter to specify the pausing period.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To pause the print job (for 1 hour) you need to insert the following line as the first line of your G-code print file:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;G4 P3600000 // One hour pausing; defined in milliseconds&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;or (if your firmware supports)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;G4 S3600 // One hour pausing; defined in seconds&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other solutions may include the adaption of the OctoPrint &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/foosel/OctoPrint/wiki/Cookbook:-Custom-Controls&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;controls&lt;/a&gt; menu structure or use of the &lt;a href=&quot;http://docs.octoprint.org/en/master/api/job.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;REST API&lt;/a&gt; of OctoPrint. These options are more difficult to implement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-03-20T12:15:49.020" LastActivityDate="2019-03-20T12:15:49.020" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8506" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8507" CreationDate="2019-03-20T12:43:03.293" Score="4" ViewCount="1654" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to figure out why the print speed changes at one point in this model.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm using Ultimaker Cura 3.6 and, as shown in the picture, I set the speed to be the same across the entire print. Is there a setting I'm missing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/47jrL.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/47jrL.png&quot; alt=&quot;Screenshot of Ultimaker Cura 3.6 with sliced model&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hfntK.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hfntK.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;0scar is right. Changing the minimum time per layer to 1s (from 3s), makes the entire print print at the same speed, as per settings. However, it's probably a bad idea:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yr6yI.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yr6yI.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14608" LastEditorUserId="14608" LastEditDate="2019-03-20T12:53:52.120" LastActivityDate="2019-03-20T14:16:17.693" Title="Why does the print speed change at specific height? (Using Ultimaker Cura slicer)" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|speed|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8507" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8506" CreationDate="2019-03-20T12:51:37.660" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not being able to see the rest of the model (from the first image), if looks as if the light green sliced area displaying a lower speed for the top of the cylinder, is the only part that need to be printed to that height (now confirmed in the second image). This speed reduction is done by the slicer and is not specifically caused by Ultimaker Cura (other slicers do result in similar behavior). Note this is a good thing! Lets explain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Filament needs an amount of time to cool before the next layer is deposited onto the previous layer. When the layers get small (surface area) and there are no other layers the print head shifts to, the print process is slowed down to allow the filament to cool down; hence you see a decrease in print speed.  If you deposit too fast, the last part of your print will become too hot and will deform.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A print parameter that influences the behavior is the &lt;code&gt;Minimal Layer Time&lt;/code&gt; parameter in Ultimaker Cura, please read the hint information of this parameter:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Jzd89.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Jzd89.png&quot; alt=&quot;Hint text of Minimal Layer Time parameter of Ultimaker Cura&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-03-20T14:16:17.693" LastActivityDate="2019-03-20T14:16:17.693" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8508" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8488" CreationDate="2019-03-20T20:25:50.653" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;As I understand your question:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You manually go through a leveling process and have it set up well.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You allow the printer to &quot;auto-level&quot;. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You print, and the right side is too low by about 0.1mm.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it possible that the filament (which is on the left side) pulls up on the extruder when the extruder is on the right side?  A small tug could lift the extruder making it appear the same as if the bed were too low.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this seems possible, check for the extruder being vertically loose or wobbly.  I've had filament pull forces cause slight head offsets on a home-brew printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2082" LastEditorUserId="14562" LastEditDate="2019-03-25T22:43:33.143" LastActivityDate="2019-03-25T22:43:33.143" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8509" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8493" CreationDate="2019-03-20T20:33:02.703" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You specify that 1 to 6 layers are expanded.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does that match with the number of bottom perimeters you ask for?  If so, then I would suspect over-extrusion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If not, it could be a combination of two problems:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The head is too close to the bed, and&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The head has too much vertical compliance or springiness.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this scenario, the head being too close puts additional upward pressure on the head.  The springiness allows the head to displace upward, but it is still too close.  Being too close, the extruded bead is spread out too far.  With each additional layer, the head is relatively less close, and the effect reduces until eventually the head is not displaced by the extruded bead, and the object prints normally.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2082" LastActivityDate="2019-03-20T20:33:02.703" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8510" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-03-20T21:27:36.937" Score="1" ViewCount="854" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can you think of a preferably cheap solution for me? I need a machine that pumps air out of my 3d printing enclosure, about 4 meters of pipe length. (From enclosure to window) What kind of pump or fan can pump air out of the enclosure (4m pipe length) at the lowest possible price and low volume?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I need it for cooling purposes and for better general air quality in my room after opening the printer enclosure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It doesn't need to be top notch equipment, just enough for my purposes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user12769" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2019-03-21T12:52:48.067" LastActivityDate="2019-03-21T14:47:10.090" Title="Exhaust air solution" Tags="|diy-3d-printer|enclosure|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8511" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8510" CreationDate="2019-03-20T22:08:10.460" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well you can get a centrifugal fan and put it at either end of the pipe. You didn't specify a pipe diameter so I'll assume it's 1 inch. Just hook the pipe up to the exhaust. You will have to design and print an adapter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bHByf.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bHByf.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12857" LastActivityDate="2019-03-20T22:08:10.460" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8512" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8643" CreationDate="2019-03-21T01:31:57.710" Score="8" ViewCount="6272" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have some flexible PLA filament (&lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B00VKSSA4E&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00VKSSA4E/&lt;/a&gt;, presumably a mix of PLA with some platicizer) that's supposed to be easy to print with settings similar to regular PLA. I've seen recommendations to disable retraction, and indeed I get huge failures to extrude at all for a while after retraction if it's enabled. But with retraction disabled, I get stringing all over the place, and since the material isn't brittle, it's really difficult to remove.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm using a bed temp of 60 and print temp of 220, increased from 210 for normal PLA since I had trouble getting it to adhere at lower temp. Printer is Creality Ender 3. Using CuraEngine for slicing. The extruder is feeding the material fine; there's no kinking going on or anything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Where should I start trying to improve this? Might retraction work with a really really slow print speed or greatly reduced retraction distance? Or are there other ways to avoid stringing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2019-05-18T01:35:56.570" Title="Avoiding stringing with flexible filament" Tags="|print-quality|filament|flexible|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8513" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8518" CreationDate="2019-03-21T03:38:17.487" Score="5" ViewCount="3701" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I got my 3D printer (Anet A8) a few years ago and put it together. I couldn't figure out how to use it. Then about a month ago I decided to try again now that I am older and got it to work. I know more than I did by far. I have printed about 15-20 different times now, but then this problem occurred just now that I have never seen before. I tried looking up what it could be and google results in nothing and this exchange leads to one thread that is close to what I am having difficulty with but doesn't really help. I got the stl file from the internet on thingverse, so I am fairly certain  they must have clicked the center and arrange when in the cad software to make the item, which is a phone stand. So my print all of a sudden starting printing in air. Here is a picture and thanks for the help. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xxoaQ.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xxoaQ.png&quot; alt=&quot;Printer Anet A8 prints in the air&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14899" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-03-21T07:28:06.070" LastActivityDate="2019-03-21T23:16:55.550" Title="Printer is Confused-Printing in Air Literally" Tags="|extruder|software|anet-a8|hardware|print-failure|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8514" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8512" CreationDate="2019-03-21T05:59:16.097" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could enable &lt;code&gt;combing&lt;/code&gt; in the slicer. Combing not only prevents retracts, it also uses already laid down paths for movement from one to the other location and as such reduces the amount of stringing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-03-21T11:21:50.223" LastActivityDate="2019-03-21T11:21:50.223" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8515" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-03-21T08:01:50.997" Score="3" ViewCount="900" Body="&lt;p&gt;I equipped my Makerbot Replicator 2x with &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Makerbot-Replicator-2-3D-Printer-Part-Makerbot-TMC2100-V1-0-Stepper-Motor-Driver-Module-With-Heatsink/32870918354.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;silent stepper drivers TMC2100&lt;/a&gt;. According to the product page I reduced V&lt;sub&gt;ref&lt;/sub&gt; from 127 (factory default) to 25 in the printer settings as well as in my start G-code.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With this I get horrible layer shifting (a few millimeters!), even if I reduce print- and travel-acceleration to 300. The layer shifting is mostly happening on the Y-axis, but also on X-axis. Not only layer shifting was happening, also the extruder-motors lost many steps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To fight this problem I increased the V&lt;sub&gt;ref&lt;/sub&gt; little by little. At around 70 for X and Y axis (and 50 for extruders) all layer shift- and extrusion problems were gone. Also I had to install a dedicated fan for the stepper drivers, because they got very hot. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was happy with this solution for about 10 minutes, then I noticed that the stepper motors are getting so hot I burned my fingertips by touching them. My guess for the motor temperature would be 80~90&amp;nbsp;°C.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So my question is: Are those TMC2100 stepper driver unsuitable for my usecase somehow or am I missing something? Is there a way to get the 3D printer silent while not overheating?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On behalf of advice in the comments, I mounted some &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.amazon.de/Schwarz-Aluminium-K%C3%BChlk%C3%B6rper-Heizk%C3%B6rper-Heatsink/dp/B07C7SJHTH&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;heat sinks&lt;/a&gt; and measured the temperature via an &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.amazon.de/Thermometer-ber%C3%BChrungslos-Temperaturmessger%C3%A4t-Temperaturmesser-Beleuchtung/dp/B01I4TB2IM/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;IR-thermometer&lt;/a&gt;. With the old original stepper drivers I get 60&amp;nbsp;°C for the Y-axis and 66&amp;nbsp;°C for the X-axis. With TMC2100 it is 86&amp;nbsp;°C for both. (Each temperature measured at the heatsink)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14901" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-12-30T10:21:05.340" LastActivityDate="2023-05-30T18:36:56.070" Title="Replicator 2x getting too hot with silent stepper drivers" Tags="|makerbot|stepper-driver|heat-management|makerbot-replicator2|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8516" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6041" CreationDate="2019-03-21T09:38:19.460" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're ever in doubt regardless of what project you're working on... &lt;strong&gt;Tooth Floss.&lt;/strong&gt;    You need the good old-fashioned braided kind, none of the new &quot;Pro Glide&quot; elastic stuff.  Pull a piece taut and just start sawing back &amp;amp; forth against the bottom layer in different areas (corners work best)... and you'll be on your way in very little time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14902" LastEditorUserId="14902" LastEditDate="2019-08-11T07:44:12.700" LastActivityDate="2019-08-11T07:44:12.700" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8517" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8510" CreationDate="2019-03-21T12:51:53.187" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Air flows from places of higher pressure to those of less.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Minimal setup&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I propose to look at a very simple setup which works for short lengths of pipe:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Choose if you want a radial fan of a direct passing fan. get one, measure the intake and the outlet side holes&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;cut a fan inlet-sized hole directly into the back of the enclosure.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;mount your fan onto it, most likely with some kind of foam to keep the airstream in.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;get a flexible air vent hose (I have seen ~$10/10€ for a 100mm one) and measure the inner diameter.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;print an adapter from the fan outlet to the vent hose.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;mount the adapter, then the hose, use clamps to secure it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;lead the air vent hose to the window and out or into a wall through.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even if the airstream doesn't seem to be very fast, you could test it with smoke to see that it will blow out the air on the other end of the hose. The large diameter lets quite some air out with just a &amp;quot;gentle&amp;quot; airstream. This is not a very efficient system though, as we build up a pressure in the pipe the fan wors against.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;efficiency gains&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To gain efficiency, we should move the fan away from the machine and closer to the outlet. That means, we need to increase the fan power. If you can get your hand on, for example, an in-pipe motor, that would be a solution, but usually an expensive one. If you are good with electrics, you could use a blower from an electric cloths-drier. You might get a clothes-drier to strip the motor from really cheap, for example from a renovation, recycling facility or &lt;a href=&quot;https://craigslist.org/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Craigslist&lt;/a&gt;, e-bay or any other auction or classifieds-page.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or you build your own from an electric motor (you could use your machine's power supply here), a housing made from wood and an impeller, which you can get as a &amp;quot;Dryer Blower Wheel&amp;quot; spare part for under $50. If you connect the power for its motor through a regulatable resistor, you could even control its spinning speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To cope with the suction, we need to use aluminium flex pipe on the arm between machine and exhaust.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;go big&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to go &lt;em&gt;industrial&lt;/em&gt; like if you want to run a laser cutter, you will need to go industrial in the vent size too. You use pretty much the same diameter aluminium flex pipe and a much stronger motor than the drier one, and you don't mount the motor directly to the machine back but somewhere downstream as it's rather loud. For what to look for in that case, I found a very good article &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.engraversjournal.com/article.php/2780/index.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;. Note though, that this is not a small setup, but you could possibly vent a whole batch of printers through one pump, using some airstream cutoffs to control which ones get currently evacuated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:29:41.667" LastActivityDate="2019-03-21T14:47:10.090" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8518" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8513" CreationDate="2019-03-21T23:16:55.550" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2737639&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Here's the pattern.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem is, you didn't slice the g-code using support. It won't print right without it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zk8sU.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zk8sU.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;From Thingiverse.com from blecheimer&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11242" LastActivityDate="2019-03-21T23:16:55.550" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8519" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8523" CreationDate="2019-03-22T01:14:22.780" Score="9" ViewCount="4542" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm using Ultimaker Cura 3.6.0 and I am getting some annoying &quot;stringing&quot; on the first layer. This isn't new to 3.6.0 as I have seen it on pretty much every version I have used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What appears to be happening is that as it is laying down the first layer, it doesn't retract as it moves from one area to another. This leaves a trail of filament which then shows up as an unattractive line embedded in the print. (ignore the other extrusion issues in the example below)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A similar thing happens on the top layer. It ruins the look of the nice smooth bottom I get from a glass bed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't have stringing issues elsewhere on my prints.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I thought at one time I had seen a setting to control it, like &quot;retraction during travel&quot; or something, but now I can't seem to find anything that sounds like it in the dizzying array of settings. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know of a way to get rid it these lines?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kuQ4f.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kuQ4f.png&quot; alt=&quot;Example Travel Lines&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12559" LastActivityDate="2019-03-22T12:35:47.167" Title="Stringing during travel on first layer with Ultimaker Cura" Tags="|retraction|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8520" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-03-22T01:37:37.800" Score="-1" ViewCount="254" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Facts:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Breaking down (or melting) plastic creates nanoparticles.&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;3D printers melt plastic.&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Therefore, 3D printers make nanoparticles.&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Nanoparticles are evil.&lt;sup&gt;&lt;em&gt;[citation needed]&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wait, What?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sub&gt;1. &lt;a href=&quot;https://phys.org/news/2018-12-plastic-disintegrates-nanoparticles.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Plastic waste disintegrates into nanoparticles&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;sub&gt;2. &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.explainthatstuff.com/how-3d-printers-work.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;How do 3D printers work?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA; &lt;sub&gt;3. &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.tandfonline.com/doi/full/10.1080/02786826.2017.1342029&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Characterization of particle emissions from consumer fused deposition modeling 3D printers&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;I know&lt;/em&gt; that 3D printers make nanoparticles. But is that actually a safety concern? There are multiple &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.zimple3d.com/zimpure/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;products&lt;/a&gt; on the market today that will suck up your nanoparticles for you. However, I can't see an obvious danger in the particles themselves. Who decided that these nanoparticles are bad for your health? 3D printers put out plenty of heat too, but nobody thinks that's dangerous.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So my question: &lt;strong&gt;Does anyone know of sources/research articles of the possible harmful effects of nanoparticles created by 3D printing?&lt;/strong&gt; I'm looking for real scientific research. Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9084" LastEditorUserId="9084" LastEditDate="2019-03-22T16:30:44.027" LastActivityDate="2019-03-22T16:30:44.027" Title="Is there proof that 3D printer made nanoparticles are dangerous?" Tags="|safety|health|plastic|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="8" ClosedDate="2019-03-22T23:42:43.200" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8521" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2019-03-22T01:57:45.100" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2019-03-22T01:57:45.100" LastActivityDate="2019-03-22T01:57:45.100" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8522" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2019-03-22T01:57:45.100" Score="0" Body="For questions related to the physical and chemical properties of plastic." OwnerUserId="9084" LastEditorUserId="9084" LastEditDate="2019-03-22T11:43:00.430" LastActivityDate="2019-03-22T11:43:00.430" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8523" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8519" CreationDate="2019-03-22T06:56:23.930" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, if you are using the &lt;code&gt;Combing Mode&lt;/code&gt; option, please ensure it doesn't do this in the skin, for a leak/string free first layer, it is required to set the &lt;code&gt;Combing Mode&lt;/code&gt; to &lt;code&gt;Not in Skin&lt;/code&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SFuUy.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SFuUy.png&quot; alt=&quot;Ultimaker Cura &amp;quot;Combing Mode&amp;quot; option &amp;quot;Not in Skin&amp;quot;&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the mode of the option is set to &lt;code&gt;Not in Skin&lt;/code&gt;, combing is &quot;off&quot; for the skin; this implies that the material will retract and move in a straight line to the next print area. When material is retracted (and when properly tuned for your printer), the nozzle will not leak filament causing those (deposited) travel movement lines as indicated by the OP.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-03-22T12:35:47.167" LastActivityDate="2019-03-22T12:35:47.167" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8525" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8520" CreationDate="2019-03-22T13:17:46.043" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;At the time of this writing (March 2019), I don't think theres any study on the health effects of nanoparticles emmitted by 3D Printers. The general consensus seems to be right now that those particles are potentially harmful, as they build up in the lungs, and therefore precautions should be taken.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason why nobody has yet determined if and how harmful they are, might be that those adverse health effects are probably long term, and hard to isolate. Plastic is everywhere today - it's not that easy to just study harmful health effects caused by 3D printers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But we can say for sure that plastic in our bodies isn't ideal and can cause damage, so we should avoid it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14909" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2019-03-22T14:27:24.047" LastActivityDate="2019-03-22T14:27:24.047" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8526" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8023" CreationDate="2019-03-22T14:36:22.883" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;While uncommon, this issue could be caused by having no minimum layer time set. This could lead to printing on a still very hot surface, which in turn ripples and moves, creating a little wave pattern. The wave pattern then can grow into this diagonal pattern.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might manage to reduce the issue by setting a minimum layer time of 10 to 15 seconds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastActivityDate="2019-03-22T14:36:22.883" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8527" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8520" CreationDate="2019-03-22T15:22:33.247" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Perhaps FDM 3D printing does emit nanoparticles during the process of printing, but the syllogism does not prove it or even suggest it.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Parenthetically, your headline is not actually addressed by the body of your question.  As an answerer, I have been misled by other questions which seemed clear enough from the headline, but where the question body actually posed a completely different question.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Double parenthetically, your final question does align with your headline.  The discussion of 3D printing and the assertion that it is dangerous is not actually relevant to the question at all.  It might be better to remove the references to 3D printing and post this in another SE group focused on human health.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first point, that breaking down or &lt;em&gt;melting&lt;/em&gt; plastic produces nano-particles is not supported by your reference.  The reference refers to the mechanical breakdown of particles in a simulated oceanic environment and does not mention melting.  The reference is silent on the possibility of melting producing and emitting nanoparticles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In an FDM 3D printer, the melting takes place in an enclosed capsule, the hot-end.  The plastic is heated to the point where the viscosity is low enough that the pressure of the unsoftened plastic filament pushes the softened material out of the hot-end through the nozzle.  Upon exiting the nozzle the temperature falls, and the plastic begins to recrystallize.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have seen no evidence of outgassing during printing with dry filament, other than an odor.  Usually melting joins separated objects, pellets, and larger particles in a unified liquid state. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Without specific testing, one can not say there is no risk of nanoparticles emitted by FDM 3D printing.  Ventilation remains a useful method of reducing local exposure to nanoparticles and odors.  Airborne risks are one of the many risks to be considered, but I have no evidence that they are more serious than the burn risk, the fire risk, or the risk of a stroke from high blood pressure induced by failed prints.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2082" LastEditorUserId="2082" LastEditDate="2019-03-22T15:29:50.883" LastActivityDate="2019-03-22T15:29:50.883" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8528" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8474" CreationDate="2019-03-22T15:46:23.980" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If one edge is peeling up, the first layer isn't sticking.  You may need to go through a first-layer troubleshooting process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is the bed flat and parallel to the Z-plane traced by the printhead?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Are you taking appropriate steps to attach the ABS to the bed?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is the bed hot enough to reduce shrinkage of the printed ABS object?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For sticking ABS to the bed, I've had good luck with two approaches:  a PEI-coated bed surface, or ABS slurry on a non-PEI surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For bed temperature, I usually run a little hotter: 100 °C.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2082" LastActivityDate="2019-03-22T15:46:23.980" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8530" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8351" CreationDate="2019-03-22T18:30:13.580" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Resolution&lt;/strong&gt;: After many trials and errors, I finally replaced the nozzle with one that that was not partially blocked by filament at its entrance. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Likely cause&lt;/strong&gt;: A careful examination of the old part hints, that the repeated blockage in the nozzle seems to have been caused by a gap between the PTFE tube and the nozzle, which has considerably moved backwards under the stress of printing as one can see &lt;em&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BDHmw.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/em&gt; in a photo of the PTFE tube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It took me about a month and I went down a few rabbit holes until &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/12857/user77232&quot;&gt;@user77232&lt;/a&gt; made a great suggestion to check the nozzle and see if it needs to be cleaned. Thanks for helping me out everyone!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14562" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2019-03-23T20:58:53.683" LastActivityDate="2019-03-23T20:58:53.683" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8531" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-03-22T18:33:23.050" Score="4" ViewCount="659" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have built a 3D printer using RAMPS 1.4. I am trying to raise the hotend temperature over 180&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C. But I can hardly get to 100&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C in 60 minutes. I applied power directly to the heater and I was able to get to 220&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C in about 15 minutes. What am I not doing right? Currently I think the PID isn't correctly calibrated. How do I do that with the Repetier firmware?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;P.S. I tried PID tuning but end with an error on timeout. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14912" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-03-23T00:06:35.073" LastActivityDate="2019-03-23T16:56:39.037" Title="How do I calibrate temperature control in a Repetier firmware?" Tags="|ramps-1.4|hotend|repetier|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8532" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7981" CreationDate="2019-03-22T20:33:40.567" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I agree with @silver, but also wanted to point out that maybe the acceleration values on the old firmware you had were different from the default in TH3D R2.7.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The current settings can be retrieved using the M503 command, which should return the values from the eeprom:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Maximum Acceleration (units/s2):&#xA;M201 X1000 Y1000 Z100 E10000&#xA;Acceleration (units/s2): P R T&#xA;M204 P400.00 R1000.00 T1000.00&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can then lookup the default settings for your printer model and use &lt;a href=&quot;http://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M201.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;M201&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M204.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;M204&lt;/a&gt; to set the new values. Then M500 to save the new settings to the EEPROM.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14562" LastActivityDate="2019-03-22T20:33:40.567" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8533" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8531" CreationDate="2019-03-23T00:18:21.043" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;When applying a voltage directly to the heater element, it should heat up very fast. You could measure the resistance of the heater element. A 12&amp;nbsp;V heater element of 40&amp;nbsp;Watt should have a resistance of about 3.6&amp;nbsp;&amp;Omega;; you could test that with a multitester. If the resistance is a lot higher, the heater cartridge could be a 24&amp;nbsp;V heater element. Operating such element on 12&amp;nbsp;V would imply that the power output would only be 10&amp;nbsp;W. Heating of the hotend is much slower at low power output.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Incorrect PID settings can indeed prevent the heater to heat up fast enough to trigger errors during tuning. The trick is to heat up the element a little prior to performing the tuning, or upload new PID settings to the firmware prior to tuning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PID settings can be set not only by uploading a modified firmware version (configuration file), but also by sending commands to the printer over serial terminal connection (e.g. Repetier host, OctoPrint, Pronterface, etc.) or stored in a G-code file and executing it (&quot;printing&quot;). The G-code command to set the PID values is &lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#M301:_Set_PID_parameters&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;code&gt;M301&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/a&gt;. The relevant parameters are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Hnnn heater number &lt;br&gt;Pnnn proportional (Kp) &lt;br&gt;Innn integral (Ki) &lt;br&gt;Dnnn&#xA;  derivative (Kd)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-03-23T16:56:39.037" LastActivityDate="2019-03-23T16:56:39.037" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8534" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8535" CreationDate="2019-03-23T05:29:42.700" Score="4" ViewCount="180" Body="&lt;p&gt;Recently I have been doing more complicated math in OpenSCAD and I have run into something that I find strange. Take a simple math expression: &lt;code&gt;2 / 2 / 2&lt;/code&gt;. By any programming language this will equal 0.5 (1/2), and OpenSCAD agrees. Something like this: &lt;code&gt;2 / -2 / 2&lt;/code&gt; should also be -0.5 for the same reason. However, OpenSCAD thinks this is -2. That is &lt;code&gt;echo(2 / -2 / 2);&lt;/code&gt; gives &lt;code&gt;ECHO: -2&lt;/code&gt;. My calculator, other programming languages (and myself) all say its -0.5.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this a quirk of OpenSCAD, or am I missing something obvious?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14914" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2019-03-25T13:16:15.480" LastActivityDate="2019-04-07T19:56:53.150" Title="Why is 2 / -2 / 2 equal to -2 in OpenSCAD? (Mathematical Order of Operations)" Tags="|openscad|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8535" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8534" CreationDate="2019-03-23T09:33:44.923" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;I suspect the behavior you are seeing is an undocumented feature (aka, bug) of OpenSCAD. I've found in the latest stable release that if the - is placed on either end, the result is -0.5, but in the middle, my results are the same as yours. Surrounding the -2 with parentheses results in a correct answer, however.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It appears that the parentheses turns a mathematical operation into a signed integer. It follows that the operations without the parentheses is right to left:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2/2 = 1, negative 1 with the minus, 2/-1 = -2&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastActivityDate="2019-03-23T09:33:44.923" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8536" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="475" CreationDate="2019-03-23T10:16:09.153" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Had Y axis stepping issues&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Solved the issue by correct pressure on the guide wheels on the Y-axis track.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Too much pressure caused binding and the Y stepper motor to skip steps&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps some people &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14915" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2019-03-23T11:23:11.847" LastActivityDate="2019-03-23T11:23:11.847" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8538" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-03-24T16:55:26.320" Score="0" ViewCount="394" Body="&lt;p&gt;During recalibration of my printer (due to the nozzle catching on the prints), the Z-axis went down where it used to go up, damaging the heatbed steel sheet in the process. It then failed calibration.&#xA;I didn't change the wiring since previous print although I re-adjusted the PINDA probe.&#xA;What can I do to fix this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14925" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-12-17T06:31:50.447" LastActivityDate="2023-07-27T20:50:40.873" Title="Prusa i3 MK3S Z axis moving down in calibration wizard" Tags="|prusa-i3|calibration|z-axis|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8539" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8542" CreationDate="2019-03-25T02:17:45.767" Score="8" ViewCount="5592" Body="&lt;p&gt;3D-printing newbie here. I have a Geeetech's Prusa i3 mk2 B.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to print this: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1358311&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1358311&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's a mold, with 2 external parts and a core. The exterior prints wonderful. But the core is too messy. Take a look at this: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HrrKz.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HrrKz.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What riddles me is that the side parts, and the pole's base, print fine; so this does not look like a bad calibrated printer, but something else entirely. My guess is this is some precise tuning I don't know yet. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've been trying to print that little pole without success for over a week now. Tried all this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Changing the slicer program (I've used Ultimaker Cura and Slic3r prusa edition)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tuning the e-steps for avoiding over-extrusion.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tuning the z-steps, so the nozzle doesn't melt the last layer when printing a new one.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In the same sense, changed the nozzle heat.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tried lots of different layering, speed, walls, bridging, and quirks configurations.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So far, the best I got is a little pole not-too-deformed so I can make my part anyway, even when the pole is not well printed. But after seeing lots of videos and reading lots of tips online, I still don't understand how to tune my print for that simple little pole.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other that tips, what I would really like to ask is if somebody has a name for that problem I'm facing, so it would be much more easy to search for my tuning options.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So... any clue how to fix this? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14932" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-03-25T07:38:17.967" LastActivityDate="2020-09-09T22:48:16.627" Title="Trouble printing small thin pole" Tags="|prusa-i3|ultimaker-cura|slic3r|geeetech|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8541" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8159" CreationDate="2019-03-25T04:36:41.617" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The heat bed turns off because economy mode is set to on &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;by default&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;, change this in the adjustment menu. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14934" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2019-03-25T12:45:01.747" LastActivityDate="2019-03-25T12:45:01.747" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8542" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8539" CreationDate="2019-03-25T05:21:52.573" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;Basically, &lt;strong&gt;you print too hot (and fast) without enough cooling&lt;/strong&gt;. The deformed small pin in your image is a perfect example of depositing new layers onto too hot (not cooled down enough) prior layers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can easily solve this by printing two identical parts spaced apart from each other. This allows the layers to cool before the next is deposited. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From &lt;a href=&quot;https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/21932-mastering-cura&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;mastering Ultimaker Cura&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;When printing a series of small parts, print them all together. The&#xA;  travel time between the parts is often enough time for the layers to&#xA;  cool without changing your settings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do want this to print as a single piece, you need to:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;tune down hotend temperature&lt;/strong&gt; (use the minimum temperature that gives good print results, printing a &lt;a href=&quot;/q/7345&quot;&gt;temperature tower&lt;/a&gt; will help to determine this), &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;increase minimal layer time&lt;/strong&gt; (may not always work as speed will not be lowered under the minimum printing speed) and&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;increase part cooling fan percentage&lt;/strong&gt; (or print a better fan duct that allows for more cooling air to reach the print; many fan ducts are too convergent, the pressure increase is then too big for the fan to effectively push air through it).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-03-25T22:44:57.837" LastActivityDate="2019-03-25T22:44:57.837" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8543" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8539" CreationDate="2019-03-25T07:08:09.157" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The thin core gathers too much heat in the printing process. If you need to print slender objects, either: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Print several. This is the most simple solution and best for beginners.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Increase cooling. A better cooling solution or increased fan speed often can help to get thin or delicate objects printed.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;set minimum layer time to slow down the printer automatically on layers with low cross-sections. If too small, it could pause on the edge of the print, which could leave scorch marks.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you know a little more about your printer and got your retraction dialed in, you can go more advanced: set &lt;code&gt;minimum layer time&lt;/code&gt; to 10 to 15 seconds &lt;strong&gt;and&lt;/strong&gt; activate the accompanying Z-hop. This will prevent the scorch marks, but you might need to make sure you don't string.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This way the part has a chance to cool down between printing layers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2019-03-26T18:40:40.643" LastActivityDate="2019-03-26T18:40:40.643" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8545" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8550" CreationDate="2019-03-25T10:20:22.043" Score="3" ViewCount="1577" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an Anycubic i3 Mega-S and when I'm printing something (especially when it's hotter) the temperature increases and decreases by around 3 degrees during the print. Is this normal?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was worried this is a loose thermistor and if it comes out during a print my house will probably catch fire! I have no idea how to tighten it though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14936" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2019-04-14T18:29:00.723" LastActivityDate="2019-04-14T18:29:00.723" Title="Temperature fluctuations, is it normal?" Tags="|prusa-i3|hotend|anycubic-i3-mega|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8547" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-03-25T11:14:07.800" Score="3" ViewCount="1132" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought new yellow PLA filament from XYZ (1.75&amp;nbsp;mm). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Over the past I have printed many objects with my da Vinci 1.0 (ABS only). I found that while the brim is being printing (using default configuration of XYZWare; the da Vinci machines give the user very little control over print parameters, if I remember correctly the temperatures are controlled by the chip in the filament cassette), filament stopped extruding from my extruder immediately. However, ABS can be printed properly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could anyone tell me how can I work around ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TJPFb.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Part of brim that stopped printing&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TJPFb.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Part of brim that stopped printing&quot; title=&quot;Part of brim that stopped printing&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9473" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2019-07-03T10:10:12.040" LastActivityDate="2019-07-03T10:10:12.040" Title="da Vinci 1.0 cannot print PLA filament" Tags="|filament|pla|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8548" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8549" CreationDate="2019-03-25T11:29:23.553" Score="5" ViewCount="12252" Body="&lt;p&gt;At the moment the outside surface temperature is around 30 °C. Can I put my PETG spools outside with a fan in order to dry them cheaply?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14228" LastEditorUserId="14228" LastEditDate="2019-03-26T13:35:43.853" LastActivityDate="2019-09-07T05:47:56.787" Title="Can I dry PETG filament under sun?" Tags="|filament|quality|petg|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8549" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8548" CreationDate="2019-03-25T13:50:13.943" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The simple answer is: &lt;strong&gt;No&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are two basic reasons for this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The sun will not get the filament hot enough to evaporate any moisture which has been absorbed.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;While sitting out in the sun, it will continue to absorb more moisture, which defeats the purpose.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.matterhackers.com/news/filament-and-water&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Matter Hackers&lt;/a&gt;, they give a very reliable way to dry filament:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Preheat your oven to 160-180°F  (or 70-80°C).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Place spool in oven for 4-6 hours&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Remove and place in an airtight container, preferably with desiccant. 5-gallon buckets with airtight lids from local hardware stores work very well for filament storage. You can use uncooked rice as a cheap desiccant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Filaments with lower glass transition temperatures (Tg) like PLA, use lower temperatures to dry. Lower temperatures also require more time to thoroughly dry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That’s really all that’s necessary to dry out your filament and ensure optimum material performance and surface finish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So if you have some spools that have been sitting out for a while and aren’t printing as well as they used to, dry them out and try again. Chances are they’ll be like new.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can see in the write-up it states you need to get the oven up to 160-180°F (or 70-80°C). The sun will &lt;em&gt;never&lt;/em&gt; provide that level of heat. It also states at lower temps it takes longer to evaporate all of the moisture. Placing the filament into an oven at the proper temps will ensure the best results short of buying a purpose built system like &lt;em&gt;PrintDry&lt;/em&gt; which is also mentioned in the article.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11242" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:29:41.667" LastActivityDate="2019-03-25T16:17:28.203" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8550" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8545" CreationDate="2019-03-25T14:47:48.350" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;All printers will have some fluctuation and it's not a concern. This is similar to the fluctuation you'll see in your home temperature around the thermostat setting.  There are a couple reasons. One is that the feedback loop (thermistor to control board to heater to extruder block) will always have some lag. Another is that most systems have built-in &quot;hysteresis,&quot; i.e. set the &quot;turn off heat&quot; a couple degrees above the &quot;turn on heat&quot; thresholds. This avoids &quot;chatter&quot; from on to off right at the setpoint.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Some thermistors (e.g. my AnetA8 clone) can be held in place with a setscrew. If yours doesn't have a similar capability, use Kapton tape to hold it in. This tape is designed for high temperature operations so it won't age or collapse, and it has good holding strength.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2191" LastActivityDate="2019-03-25T14:47:48.350" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8551" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8539" CreationDate="2019-03-25T14:51:12.583" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The other answers have addressed the heat problem.  The other risk is that a rod printed vertically like this is prone to snap, because the weakest axis is between layers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I often rotate pieces like this and print with the rod horizontal.  You then have to remove the support and/or brim material, and probably do a bit of sanding to get it properly round, but the final part will be much more reliable (not break). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2191" LastActivityDate="2019-03-25T14:51:12.583" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8552" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3853" CreationDate="2019-03-25T15:16:25.100" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;What colour was your PLA? PLA will soften around 60C and a dark colour will easily get hotter than that in direct sun on a 30C day.  Clear PLA seems to have much, much better temperature resistance, but any sort of PETG will kick it's butt in that regard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14940" LastActivityDate="2019-03-25T15:16:25.100" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8553" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8554" CreationDate="2019-03-25T17:45:23.737" Score="3" ViewCount="2557" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am currently running my Tronxy X5s with a MKS Gen L board. So far I have not ran the heat bed over 50 degrees C since I have only printed with PLA so far. I plan to try PETG and/or ABS in the near future and I have a spare power supply 12V/360W laying around. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I first got my printer I purchased &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.lerdge.com/prod_view.aspx?TypeId=12&amp;amp;Id=212&amp;amp;FId=t3:12:3&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; external MOSFET board after reading about X5s &quot;upgrades&quot;, but so far have not used it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/u6M16.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/u6M16.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QiqlH.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QiqlH.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My plan is to now run the heat bed using a separate power supply than the one running my control board using the external MOSFET to switch it. Since this power supply will only be powering the bed, I would like to bump up the voltage, via trim-pot somewhere from 12V-15V, to gain some watts per square inch on my heat bed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will this MOSFET isolate the heat bed circuit from my control board to allow it be ran at a higher voltage? Is it safe to run the power supply/heat bed at a higher voltage than it is rated for a significant amount of time?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11097" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-03-25T22:09:59.897" LastActivityDate="2021-01-15T00:43:35.627" Title="Will this MOSFET allow the heat bed to run at a different voltage than the control board" Tags="|heated-bed|power-supply|mosfet|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8554" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8553" CreationDate="2019-03-25T18:41:12.627" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Short answer YES. You can run it from a different power supply at a higher voltage. Also it has a PC817 Optical isolator (for some reason) therefore the second power supply and your main board should not be electrically connected at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12857" LastEditorUserId="12857" LastEditDate="2019-03-26T00:54:25.063" LastActivityDate="2019-03-26T00:54:25.063" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8555" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8553" CreationDate="2019-03-25T22:42:46.200" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes you can, but you should be aware that &lt;strong&gt;running at higher voltage implies that the current also increases&lt;/strong&gt;. Your wiring and connectors to the heated platform have to be able to transport that extra current (e.g. the wires, the ones I got where very low quality, and &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprint.wiki/reprap/anet/a8/replace_hb_connector&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;connectors&lt;/a&gt; that came with my Anet A8 where not even rated for the standard load, let alone an even higher load). You need to properly solder the leads to the heated bed and use proper terminal clamps (&lt;a href=&quot;/a/6385/&quot;&gt;C-clamps or forks&lt;/a&gt;) to connect the cables to the MOSFET module. Even running the basic voltage this can happen:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZJdZU.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZJdZU.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Burnt Anet A8 connector using standard voltage&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's assume the heated bed has a resistance (R) of about 1.4&amp;nbsp;&amp;Omega;. A voltage (U) of 12&amp;nbsp;V would result in a current (I) of &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$ I=\frac{U}{R}=\frac{12}{1.4} = 8.6\  A$&lt;/span&gt; (Ampere). Running the same bed at 15&amp;nbsp;V would result in a current of &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$ \frac{15}{1.4} = 10.7\  A$&lt;/span&gt;. The power would increase from about 102&amp;nbsp;Watt to 161, which is a 60&amp;nbsp;% increase of a 25&amp;nbsp;% increase in voltage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2019-03-26T18:35:08.260" LastActivityDate="2019-03-26T18:35:08.260" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8557" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2621" CreationDate="2019-03-26T07:42:14.210" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;My Tevo Tarantula had an all metal hotend included and I never ran into any issues only printing PLA and PETG, most of the time I was even able to pull out the filament while the printer was cold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After I upgraded to an E3Dv6 clone with PTFE lined heatbreak I started to have issues because of the filament getting stuck where the Bowden tube and the heatbreak connected, so I recently replaced it with an all metal heatbreak again and the issues instantly went away.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14944" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2019-03-26T14:24:33.730" LastActivityDate="2019-03-26T14:24:33.730" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8561" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-03-27T01:17:56.050" Score="3" ViewCount="1728" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am a neophyte at 3D printing. My Ender 3 is now 4 days old and I modified it out of the box with a glass bed.  My first print was a fairly complex item, but a mere 90 x 160 x 3.5&amp;nbsp;mm. Used the sample filament that was included with the 3, first print was a keeper. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Today I was trying to use the &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B07DVLQSN3&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;AmazonBasics PLA 3D printer filament&lt;/a&gt;.  I am not amused. I'm using the identical setup and glass bed as before but poor adhesion prevented a print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I cleaned the glass with acetone followed with 90&amp;nbsp;% IPA...  No joy.  Another cleaning using a dishwashing detergent and IPA, boo hiss! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The glass bed is a Creality for the Ender, purchased separately For the first print, no adhesive was used, just the glass (cleaned the glass prior to the first print as described).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your suggestions are solicited.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14952" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2019-04-04T05:24:42.297" LastActivityDate="2019-04-04T05:31:03.540" Title="Adhesion issues using AmazonBasics PLA" Tags="|filament|pla|troubleshooting|creality-ender-3|adhesion|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ClosedDate="2019-04-10T21:17:57.693" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8563" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-03-27T12:04:42.583" Score="8" ViewCount="1581" Body="&lt;p&gt;I printed a raspberry pi case from PLA. &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1549574&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;This case&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I fitted it to my raspberry pi and now the wifi keeps dropping out. When I take it out of the case there is no problem. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The filament I am using is Black, 3D Hero 1.75mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has anyone experienced anything like this before, if so how did you work around it?&#xA;Is it common with PLA is there another material that wouldn't cause an issue?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14956" LastEditorUserId="14956" LastEditDate="2019-03-27T12:11:58.573" LastActivityDate="2019-03-28T19:12:22.753" Title="Does PLA block wifi signals?" Tags="|filament|pla|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8564" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-03-27T13:03:24.617" Score="1" ViewCount="1810" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a PLA base, that the MOSFETs are sitting on. I don't want to drill through the base of the printer, I was thinking of using Araldite to stick the PLA base to the metal frame. The PLA base will be stuck to the base of the 3D printer upside down. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do you think this will work long term? I don't want the plastic falling off and the MOSFETs hitting the metal base.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11321" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2019-03-28T07:31:54.843" LastActivityDate="2019-03-28T12:06:59.883" Title="Can I use Araldite to stick PLA to metal frame?" Tags="|pla|post-processing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8565" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6716" CreationDate="2019-03-27T14:01:02.003" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been printing daily for 2 months with PLA and have noticed respiratory problems!  I feel like slight pneumonia symptoms!&#xA;I also have very sensitive lungs that react to things that would not bother normal people.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14958" LastActivityDate="2019-03-27T14:01:02.003" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8566" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3710" CreationDate="2019-03-27T18:31:25.853" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a home-brew printer with a 9.5 mm (3/8&amp;quot;( thick solid aluminum heated bed. The bed is bare, with no additional tape, plastic film, or glass. For PLA I use purple Elmers glue stick or Aqua Net hairspray directly on the aluminum.  For ABS I use acetone/ABS solution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, it is OK to use hairspray on an aluminum metal bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2082" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-01-11T23:05:01.480" LastActivityDate="2021-01-11T23:05:01.480" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8567" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8563" CreationDate="2019-03-28T03:32:54.810" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Typically the black pigments in polymers are mineral based. If you are having true WiFi issues then it sounds like your filiment is using black iron oxide also called &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Magnetite&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;magnetite&lt;/a&gt; for the black pigment. This is the same material they use in radar absorbing paints which would make sense as to why you are having radio related issues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6287" LastActivityDate="2019-03-28T03:32:54.810" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8568" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8575" CreationDate="2019-03-28T04:58:13.313" Score="5" ViewCount="829" Body="&lt;p&gt;The question is simple - I have a RAMPS 1.4 running Marlin 1.1.9 with the three MOSFETs being used (end, fan, bed), but I'd like to have a couple other Marlin-controlled fans. One of them would be a 4-pin, 6000RPM cooler I got from a dead graphics card. Seeing how it runs perfectly at 12V 350 mA if I keep the control pin disconnected (and ignore the sense pin too, of course), Could I connect 12V and GND directly to the PSU (or RAMPS 12V header) and the CONTROL pin to one of the pwm servo control pins like D11? Or do I need a resistor? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I could add some info about the fan if needed, but it's a FirstD 4-pin, 12V 0.35A fan that can run up to 6000 RPM. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14965" LastActivityDate="2022-04-05T12:46:58.307" Title="4pin fan on RAMPS board - direct?" Tags="|ramps-1.4|print-fan|fans|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8569" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8564" CreationDate="2019-03-28T07:36:46.227" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Araldite&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Araldite&lt;/a&gt; is a brand that refers to a range of structural epoxy, acrylic and polyurethane adhesives. Among the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.go-araldite.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;vast number of products&lt;/a&gt; marketed under the name are also &quot;metal repair&quot; paste and what seems to be silicone based glues. Depending on what Araldite you have on hand, all of these types can be useful for PLA and any other 3D-printing material, as I had elaborated &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/6725/8884&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;. I suggest grabbing either an epoxy or PU variant or some kind of silicone for this use. You should make sure several things though if you go with epoxy or PU:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;make a small sample print and clamp down one side, then put a small weight on the other side. Apply the glue in the center of it. If it sags considerably during the bonding, the heat of the glue curing is warm enough to soften the print. If this happens, you should take precautions to prevent it from deforming during the bonding, e.g. not apply too much pressure onto the bond.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The MOSFET can get rather hot. Make sure that the clamp holding the MOSFET still holds the item as it gets hot, as PLA starts to get malleable enough to deform under stress at 50 °C and usually fails quickly at about 100 °C. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Silicone-based glues depend on an area to force ratio to stick but offer a flexible bond that is somewhat thermal resistant and very gap filling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2019-03-28T12:06:59.883" LastActivityDate="2019-03-28T12:06:59.883" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8574" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8055" CreationDate="2019-03-28T11:07:23.073" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Maybe slic3r just has a more realistic rendering, and that is already the complete answer.&#xA;If you print out the parts, the cura sliced part is not really that smooth. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was curious about this myself, and printed the same part without optimzing, using curas and slic3r defaults. Indeed the artefacts shown in slic3r show up in both prints.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The part in the first image was sliced with slic3r (1.42 alpha). &#xA;The part in the second image was sliced with cura (3.1 as shipped with ubuntu). Additionally to the same diagonal top-left bottom-right effects, which the cura print shows, there are also some strings going from the center to the bottom-left and top-right corners.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did not optimize anything about the top layer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kJjlM.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kJjlM.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Sliced with slic3r&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PdpN3.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PdpN3.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Sliced with cura&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14969" LastEditorUserId="14969" LastEditDate="2019-03-28T12:30:55.123" LastActivityDate="2019-03-28T12:30:55.123" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8575" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8568" CreationDate="2019-03-28T12:35:24.200" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, this should work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.glkinst.com/cables/cable_pics/4_Wire_PWM_Spec.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this 4-pin fan specification&lt;/a&gt;, such fans use a 5V PWM signal.&#xA;You would have to make sure the PWM frequency on the pin you use satisfies that 21-28 kHz range specified in the document.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to 3.3 and 3.4 in the document, you may not be able to turn the fan off completely when using the PWM input signal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13171" LastEditorUserId="13171" LastEditDate="2022-04-05T12:46:58.307" LastActivityDate="2022-04-05T12:46:58.307" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8576" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8563" CreationDate="2019-03-28T19:12:22.753" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It could be several problems&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Shielding from the material&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Heat&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mechanical load from the casing&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A metal screw next to the antenna&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To learn more about the problem, comparing different configurations is the only way to got (As you guessed, it might be shielding, so you could see how the same shape works when printed in white PLA).  Since comparing wifi signals is very prone to random changes, it is important to get better information than &quot;random drops&quot;. Signal strength is a much better indicator.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A wifi signal test is shown here, comparing a bare PI with one in a aluminum case&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=26OxCwEHoTk&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=26OxCwEHoTk&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;Indeed the aluminum case reduces the signal strength, as it was to expect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a faster comparison you can use the command 'iwconfig'. It usually shows a signal strength (Tx-Power)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;&amp;gt; iwconfig&#xA;wlp4s0    IEEE 802.11  ESSID:off/any  &#xA;      Mode:Managed  Access Point: Not-Associated   Tx-Power=20 dBm   &#xA;      Retry short limit:7   RTS thr=2347 B   Fragment thr:off&#xA;      Power Management:off&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A possible workaround might be to add an external antenna. The raspberry pi actually has solder points to add an antenna connector.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.mictronics.de/2017/10/raspberry-pi-3-with-external-antenna/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.mictronics.de/2017/10/raspberry-pi-3-with-external-antenna/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However it might be simpler to produce several iterations of casings and compare the signal strength, depending on availability to SMD soldering.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14969" LastActivityDate="2019-03-28T19:12:22.753" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8577" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-03-28T23:36:54.243" Score="1" ViewCount="399" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been asked to come up with a grant proposal for a new 3D printer. My question is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;What supporting components and training would be most beneficial to support educational use in a K-8 school? In other words what things am I missing in my list below? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Specific suggestions for things on my list that I may not have thought of are welcome too. A specific tool, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The suggestion was to include a base proposal with stretch goals that include everything needed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My current ideas are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;3D Printer - option of a Prusa Mk3 or a Railcore 300ZLT. Possibly add another Prusa Mk3 kit as a stretch goal for students to assemble.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Replacement and optional parts such as a hardened nozzle.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Training and professional development&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Filament - a variety of kinds such as PLA, ABS, flexible, conductive, etc.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Dry box or supplies to make one.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;HEPA filter.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Enclosure - heated and/or soundproofed.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Maintenance tools or supplies. Lubricant, etc.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13841" LastEditorUserId="13841" LastEditDate="2019-03-29T14:51:07.823" LastActivityDate="2019-04-01T14:22:25.247" Title="School grant proposal" Tags="|desktop-printer|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8582" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8577" CreationDate="2019-03-29T18:39:06.910" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The question changed after I answered, so I'll answer the new question.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My answers are based on seeing the results of 3D printing deployed in a nearby school system, and my own experience as a FIRST Robotics mentor in my son's school system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Current question's answer&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;K-8&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You are ambitious.  At the K level, I can see a group project to change a design (such as bracelets), and print the result.  This would be done by an adult operating the design software and managing the printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At some point, maybe G4-G5, the students would be in more control, with assistance at hand to help jump past barriers that appear (software bugs, clogged nozzles, ...).  By G8 the students should be able to handle the whole workflow if they have come up through the program.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It would be great if there were a version of Logo for 3D printing.  Maybe there is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;CAD&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will need some form of CAD software to make 3D printing useful.  Depending on the students, and assuming a small budget, you could look at OpenSCAD (or SolidPython) and OnShape.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;OpenSCAD uses a simple language to specify and transform geometric shapes and to perform union, intersection, and subtraction functions.  SolidPython is built atop OpenSCAD works with Python IDEs.  With the Python language, loops and conditionals are more natural.  OpenSCAD is pretty simple, but some people prefer Python.  Designs are not &quot;drawn&quot;, but are programmed.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;OnShape is a cloud-based, traditional 3D design and modeling tool.  Free user licenses are available with the caveat that all designs are publicly accessible and copiable, but others may not change your copy. It will be familiar to users of AutoDesk and SolidWorks systems, although the dialect will be strange.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both produce STL files for 3D printing the designs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What is the purpose of 3D printing at the school?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other training really depends on how 3D printing is integrated into the core curriculum.  If 3D printing is part of a class in the static analysis of structures, then the class would be providing the training about strength.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;IMO, the best training is accomplished by giving students access to the equipment with a mentor available to answer questions.  Each student comes to 3D modeling and printing with their own curiosity and motivation, and those are best served by smoothing their chosen path with information and advise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What can go wrong?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The worst outcome is where money is raised, equipment is purchased, and no one is available to make it work.  Or, it works great until the inevitable problem arises, and no one can resolve it.  I've seen this happen in a large, well-funded school system.  The students get frustrated, and the program loses credibility.  The well-off students buy their own equipment and carry on, while those who can't dismiss 3D printing.  3D printing becomes another failed adventure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Typical Problems&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Working in any school system is complicated.  CORI checks are required.  Special certifications and permissions are needed to work on school property.  Insurance and liability are raised as problems which block progress.  Often nothing is possible without a teacher-on-staff taking personal responsibility and directly supervising activities.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Scheduling prints which take over a few hours may be impossible.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most problems can be overcome with strong support from teachers and administration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Training Required&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The most important persons to be trained are the teachers and/or mentors.  They will train the students, and the students will train themselves and each other.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The teachers/mentors should be familiar with the general operation of the CAD software, know how to operate the 3D printing devices, and be able to resolve all common problems.  Keeping the equipment available is important.  Going down for a month is a long time in a school semester.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If 3D printing is integrated into a specific part of the curriculum, the teacher of that curriculum will provide the subject matter training that is being demonstrated through printing.  The physics teacher, the math teacher, or the art teacher will use the 3D printing to teach their domain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Supporting Components&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Look to the chemistry department for a fume hood to use for ventilation and a fire-proof enclosure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Consult with the responsible authorities in the school to determine if special ventilation is required for occasional classroom use.  Whatever they say, it may not be enough because of parents' fear of plastics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Have spare parts on hand to quickly bring a printer back online.  The ideal spare part is an extra printer -- plus other parts to restore the broken one when it fails.  Consider the latency in the supply chain for replacement parts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Have a purchasing flow authorized that allows spare parts and operating supplies to be purchased quickly.  In some school systems, it can take months to purchase materials because such purchases are handled on a semester-by-semester basis.  That won't work when you really need a spool of a special color by yesterday.  If necessary, look to PTA-like organizations because they may be able to operate more quickly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Consider using PLA in the classrooms.  There is friendly web content about PLA being sustainable, &quot;natural&quot;, and biodegradable, rather than the ABS stigma of being petrochemical.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the upper grades have a community service requirement, allow the 3D savvy students to volunteer as 3D printing mentors to the younger grades.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Previous answer&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your question is about what equipment to buy, it would be off topic as being a question of opinion and recommending specific vendor's equipment.  I am answering the question about determining what should be in a proposal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Like any consideration of acquiring a 3d printing capability, there is some data that must be known before you can determine such a list of equipment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, what will the capability be used for?  In a school context, it could be used as part of a curriculum, probably not on the topic of 3d printing, but perhaps something else. Or, it could be part of a school machine shop or hobby shop.  It could be used by a robotics club, a rocket club, or a theater club.  Based on how it will be used at the school, you can determine the next data.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second, what will be capability be used to print?  Based on that, you can judge which devices meet the need.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Third, based on the &quot;what&quot;, and a sense of &quot;how much&quot;, you can judge the type and quantity of supplies you will need.  Supplies for the first two or three years should be included in the proposal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fourth, estimate the amount of special staff time that should be needed, find a sponsor within the school who will commit to that time, and estimate the funds required to compensate them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, roll up a sales document, ideally based on a rubric from the granting agency, which included the benefits, allignment with the grant guidelines, and the costs.  Validate the proposal, especially the cost and the staff requirements, with whoever invited you to submit a proposal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;... and remember to actually submit the proposal by the deadline.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bringing 3d printing into school is a great addition to other educational and engineering tools.  With the right support from the existing school staff and a clear vision of how it will fit into the school activities and existing culture, 3d printing succeed in a school setting. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2082" LastEditorUserId="2082" LastEditDate="2019-04-01T14:22:25.247" LastActivityDate="2019-04-01T14:22:25.247" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8583" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-03-29T20:39:57.667" Score="2" ViewCount="326" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was working on what should have been a simple nozzle clog, and due to my own clumsy handling it looks like I'll now need a completely new nozzle for my 8 month old printer. Fortunately they're not too expensive: $10 for a replacement direct from the vendor. Unfortunately, the vendor is out of stock. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So now I'm looking at alternatives. I believe I could get a &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B01KJSD6N0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;5-pack for $6&lt;/a&gt;. Wow. But I wonder: what's the quality gonna be like on those nozzles. Really... that's the question of the moment: what can I look for to be sure I'm not buying junk? Even if they are junk, at 1.20 each does it matter, or is the risk to more than the nozzle itself?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, while I'm here and since I'm gonna have to spend some money, what options can I look for in this area that could provide a meaningful upgrade for my printer? Is the &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B077RRYBFH&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;cleaning kit&lt;/a&gt; worth the extra 5 bucks? What about brass vs copper vs hardened steel? If I only ever print PLA, is the &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B07HBS9S8J&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;all-metal hot-end for $10&lt;/a&gt; worth the trouble?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12562" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-12-10T06:00:45.203" LastActivityDate="2019-12-10T06:00:45.203" Title="Replacement Nozzle options" Tags="|nozzle|monoprice-maker-select-plus|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8585" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8589" CreationDate="2019-03-30T21:40:57.987" Score="2" ViewCount="490" Body="&lt;p&gt;My printer (Prusa i3 Mk3 rework clone, with a 200 x 200 &lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/wiki/PCB_Heatbed#MK3_ALU-Heatbed_Dual_Power&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;MK3 ALU-heatbed&lt;/a&gt;, RAMPS 1.4) has a car relay for heated bed control. It works just fine using bang-bang on Marlin, but I would like to replace it with a MOSFET anyways. The specialized MOSFET heating modules are way too expensive in my country, so I was thinking about buying a MOSFET that's good enough to handle my 12&amp;nbsp;V 10&amp;nbsp;A bed with Marlin's PWM. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would a MOSFET like the STP80NF70 be enough (0.01&amp;nbsp;Ω at vgs 10&amp;nbsp;V, 68&amp;nbsp;V 100&amp;nbsp;A) or would one of the bigger ones, e.g. in TO-3P encapsulation be needed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It would go in a proper heatsink and ran at 12&amp;nbsp;V with an optocoupler&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14965" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2019-03-31T08:54:33.130" LastActivityDate="2019-03-31T21:17:35.063" Title="Minimum MOSFET rating for MK3 heatbed" Tags="|prusa-i3|heated-bed|mosfet|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8586" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-03-30T23:43:48.853" Score="6" ViewCount="1232" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 3D printer and I have printed some models with castable resin. When I burn one of these models in the oven and then do the metal casting, the surface of the metal piece is not smooth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did a test with a pan. I put a model of wax and a model of castable resin to heat in a pan, and the wax model melts, but the resin model don't.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The resin I have is the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/o07nG.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/o07nG.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the correct process to make a correct resin casting?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for your help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14994" LastActivityDate="2019-04-01T17:59:42.320" Title="What is the correct process to make a correct resin casting for jewelry?" Tags="|3d-models|uv-printer|resin|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8587" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7952" CreationDate="2019-03-31T00:58:51.677" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know this is a bit late, but I just saw it.  I have had my Mini for about 2 months now.  I noticed a similar problem and found that when I level the bed, I need to hit all 5 spots (4 corners and center) about 4 or 5 times.  Just the slightest adjustment on one corner can throw another corner off.  It's tedious, but worth it once the bed is level. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14996" LastActivityDate="2019-03-31T00:58:51.677" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8588" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8583" CreationDate="2019-03-31T18:30:13.810" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;With regards to the nozzle material, it boils down to two factors: thermal conductivity and wear resistance.&#xA;Brass and copper are better at conducting heat, but they have very low wear resistance: use them with abrasive filaments (PLA infused with metal, fiber glass or carbon fiber, as an example) and they won't last a roll. On the other end steel is not a good thermal conductor, and hardened steel is even worse, meaning the filament will get colder within the nozzle, possibly requiring a slower extrusion speed or a higher temperature, but they are quite resistant to wear.&#xA;There are other options, like the famous ruby nozzle, which is very wear resistant and, being made mostly of brass, provides a good thermal conductivity, but it's expensive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another factor is the shape of the nozzle: some have a very short tip, others a longer one and that also influences the thermal conductivity and the flow rate, but also take into consideration the long ones don't play very nice with very sticky filaments like PETG.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is a matter of compromise between material, price and versatility, I don't think there is a single best choice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Usually very cheap nozzles are not machined very accurately, meaning the hole might not be perfectly round or centered, but unless you require a high level of precision they can be considered &quot;good enough&quot;: don't get me wrong, I'm not saying those are low importance factors, but you probably won't notice a great difference unless you are using very good filament and printing at high-res.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It will be very difficult for you to damage your printer using a non high quality nozzle, but replacing the nozzle incorrectly (no matter the nozzle quality) can cause damage to the heat block: try not to snap the nozzle thread like I did...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;UPDATE&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As pointed out in the comments, there are a couple of factors you might have to take into consideration when buying new nozzles: the nozzle body length (there are nozzles with a much longer threaded body, usually referenced as &lt;em&gt;volcano&lt;/em&gt;) and nozzles with different thread sizes (M6 for the vast majority, some use M7, very few use a customized system).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13989" LastEditorUserId="13989" LastEditDate="2019-04-03T14:04:47.277" LastActivityDate="2019-04-03T14:04:47.277" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8589" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8585" CreationDate="2019-03-31T20:48:06.790" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;and welcome to the Stack Exchange 3D Printing site.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's look at the specs compared with the requirements.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How much power is used by the heated bed?  You have specified 120W (12V, 10A).  That information makes it easy!  On my homebrew printer it is higher, but that seems like a good high limit for a typical i3-style design.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, the MOSFET you propose, assuming you completely turn it on, will dissipate 0.01 ohms * 10A^2, or 1 watt.  This will warm the part, and you probably should attach it to a heat sink, which could be as simple as the existing extrusions.  There is a much more complete answer to this exact question on the Electrical Engineering Stack Exchange site: &lt;a href=&quot;https://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/16882/dissipating-1w-on-a-to-220-without-heatsink&quot;&gt;Dissipating 1W on a TO-220 without heatsink?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I doubt the PID frequency is higher than 40 KHz.  Since the Vgs rating you referenced is specified with 10V on the gate, you can't drive that directly from an Arduino pin.  You need another driver transistor (NPN or FET) to drive the power FET gate.  The turn-on time for the power FET will be determined (in the simplest circuit) by the pull-up resistor to +12v connected to the output of the transistor and the gate of the FET.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2082" LastEditorUserId="2082" LastEditDate="2019-03-31T21:17:35.063" LastActivityDate="2019-03-31T21:17:35.063" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8590" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8586" CreationDate="2019-04-01T01:31:35.273" Score="1" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Traditional lost molds.&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason many jewelers use wax for making the molds for lost mold casting is, that it has (compared to plastic molding materials) a very low melting and boiling point, allowing to create molds with much lower temperature equipment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A variant of green sand casting is done with materials that very quickly decompose in contact with the molten metal or that burn out after setting fire to them. Very common in this context is foamed styrene. Styrene melts and burns easily so it is easy to use in this way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PLA has been used in some experiments as a positive and then molten out in a baking oven. It and other printing filaments are usually thermoplastics, so melting them out is similar to wax.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Resin is not soft wax or a thermoplastic.&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No, in fact, most resins are a duroplastic, meaning that they don't melt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you print a positive from resin and then make a mold from that for lost mold casting, you go the traditional way. But most resins don't melt out the way wax does, and on contact with molten metal don'T evaporate the way wax residue does. You got to properly &lt;em&gt;burn&lt;/em&gt; out the remains of the cured resin at a higher temperature and for a longer time than the wax as the melting point is much higher - use a proper burning oven. A proper burning oven in this relation reaches something like an email oven (1100 °C) or a clay burning oven (up to 1800 °C)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Putting the molds with the opening down into one of these ovens at high temperature should help a lot. Make sure to put a spacer and a tray below to allow better airflow and get the resin out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Chemical Club.&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Besides heat to destroy the resin, most resins could be solved by very highly aggressive chemicals. Which chemical works highly depends on what the resin actually is - if it is &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.microtonano.com/TIN-Removing-Cured-Epoxy.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;epoxy resin&lt;/a&gt; it would be the highly toxic CH&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt;Cl&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt; while &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.epoxy.com/Epoxy_Chemical_Resistant_Chart.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;polyester resin&lt;/a&gt; is soluble in isopropanol and sulphuric acid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Cold alternative?&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your product is to be made of a two-component resin or a ceramic that can be shaped cold and that sustains form, then you might also look at silicone molding. This is not an alternative for most metal castings. Among the very few exceptions is pewter, as PunishedPropsAcademy and Evan&amp;amp;Katelyn &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=umtYcUdOv3U&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;showed in their video&lt;/a&gt; and there are high temp silicones around that could be used repeatedly for pewter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:29:41.667" LastActivityDate="2019-04-01T17:59:42.320" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8591" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8586" CreationDate="2019-04-01T06:32:46.957" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Factually, the correct process is to heat up the mold hot enough to evaporate the positive. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Investment_casting&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;investment casting&lt;/a&gt; the process to remove the wax or plastic positive is called the &lt;code&gt;&quot;Dewax&quot;&lt;/code&gt; and &lt;code&gt;&quot;Burnout preheating&quot;&lt;/code&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The answer to your question depends on the material you use to generate a negative mold of the positive product. E.g. many silicate based materials require up to about 1100&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C to fully burnout all residue before pouring in the liquid metal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2019-04-01T06:32:46.957" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8593" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8577" CreationDate="2019-04-01T13:12:04.220" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your question doesn't have a lot of detail on how you use your existing printer (and I had to dig into the comments even to find out that you already have one: the question sounds like the grant would be for your first printer), so this is necessarily going to be generic suggestions, not all of which will apply to you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;CAD software and training&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Getting the kids to download something from Thingiverse and print it out is great for the younger ones, but to really enable them to think as engineers, they need the tools to design their own things. Giving them access to real CAD tools, and the teaching support to use them, is hugely preferable. Fusion 360 is common in education (and with hobbyists) as the bargain option, but if they really want to see what's used in industry, Solidworks, Creo, or NX could be a worthwhile investment. You need to account not just for the software licence itself, but for training up your existing staff and/or hiring in some new skills. Even if you have volunteers from a local engineering company, there'll be the cost of background checks (DBS in the UK) or whatever process you need for volunteers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Exotic filaments&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd say it's better to establish a budget for filaments and then spend it over the course of the year, instead of buying some interesting filaments up-front. Odds are, one of your students will come up with a project that wants a particular type of filament, but you won't know which until they do. Having a budget keeps your options open, while buying exotic filaments up-front creates a big risk you'll just never find a use for the particular ones you chose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Self-assembly printers&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unless you're planning to buy a new printer every year, assembling the printer is only going to be an activity for one cohort of students. Having your printer club put together the new printer can be a great add-on (and look good on your proposal), but only go for it if you need the printer anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, since you already have a printer, you might consider one of the RepRap-based plans where you can print most of the parts. You might find that the bag of bits needed to make a RepRap is cheap enough that you actually can have the kids build one from scratch every year.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Noise and smell abatement&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3D printers can be quite noisy and contribute to indoor air pollution. If you don't have a dedicated space for them, this may lead to having to agree to restrictions later on: e.g. no printing during class time, no printing while room is occupied, print room has to have the window open (so can't be used on rainy days). Depending on how budgets are in your school, maybe you can spend all your money now, and later on get an extra allocation from an H&amp;amp;S budget to fix any problems (e.g. by adding ventilation). But it might be easier to be honest up-front and include anything you'll need to make your printers good neighbours now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Hardware for printed parts&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some kinds of projects benefit from hardware that you can't print. For example, my old school ran a project where each student designed and built a clock, using an off-the-shelf clock mechanism and whatever material was lying around in the lab: sheet acrylic in various colours, plyboard, and softwoods. If you have any similar projects in mind - RC cars, kitchen timers - it might be worth thinking about specialised components now. Pin badge backers are always popular. Even if you aren't, a handful of threaded inserts, bolts and screws, hinges, rods, sandpaper, and primer will hugely increase the range of functional parts you can create.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13100" LastActivityDate="2019-04-01T13:12:04.220" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8594" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8598" CreationDate="2019-04-01T18:37:48.310" Score="9" ViewCount="24992" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know I did something stupid. I just had to have a SLA 3d printer. The issue being I live in a one bedroom apartment. In the months of owning it I have made lots of amazing pieces, I also for the first time in my life have not only allergies, but sever allergies. I thought I had the flu, and has been most of the last 2-3 months. After making the connection to the symptoms appearing after I got the printer, I sealed the resin vat and removed all cleaning station items from my living space. I had thought I had done &quot;enough&quot; by sealing the printers door, and making sure I could not smell any chemicals, and getting a chemical grade air filter. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's been 2 days, and I'm instantly recovering from my symptoms, and have discontinued allergy medication. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other than not own this type of printer, what kind of setup do I need so that I can safely use this printer? Does anyone sell enclosures or setups for businesses or homes that will solve this issue? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can move the cleaning station to my balcony, as it also has a sink and space. Placing the printer even in an enclosure outside would be hard due to the humidity and extreme pollen we get here. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2146" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2019-04-04T17:26:37.823" LastActivityDate="2019-04-04T17:26:37.823" Title="Best way to deal with Resin Printers in your living space" Tags="|safety|sla|enclosure|resin|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8595" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8594" CreationDate="2019-04-01T20:21:51.193" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;One of the options you have would be to create a negative pressure in your working area. This would be accomplished by installing a fan with the flow direction to the outside. The inside portion of the fan should have ducting that terminates near your printer. You could place your printer in something elaborate, or in something as simple as a large cardboard box and attach the ducting to the box.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As the fan operates, air would be pulled from an open window elsewhere in the room and travel into the cardboard box. It would carry fumes from the printer to the fan and out of the building.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a CO2 laser which generates large amounts of smoke. Part of the installation includes a powerful blower not placed in the window, but with ducting from the machine and to a panel in the window frame. I used scrap plastic to make a baffle that accepted the ducting while blocking the rest of the window.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/95i9o.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/95i9o.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;laser cutter blower&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Squirrel-cage blowers provide powerful airflow but you may not need something as expensive as a laser cutter blower. A boat bilge blower might be sufficient to provide clearing airflow for your printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XeNCj.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XeNCj.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;bilge blower&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally, a small bilge blower such as that shown above will use smaller diameter ducting, which would be easier to find and less expensive. The bilge blower in the picture provides for an in and out attachment, while the not-really-a-laser-cutter blower in the picture does not. A true laser cutter blower has ducting attachments for input and output.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One characteristic of this type of clearing system is that outside air will possibly change the temperature of the room/building. During the winter, the rest of my house got noticeably cooler while the exhaust fan was operating.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastActivityDate="2019-04-01T20:21:51.193" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8596" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8515" CreationDate="2019-04-02T04:18:42.510" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most Stepper drivers will have lots of energy passing through them so it is crucial to having a moderately sized heatsink to cool them off otherwise they will get too hot. Most stepper drivers found online come with heatsinks but you could search online for mini heatsinks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15018" LastActivityDate="2019-04-02T04:18:42.510" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8597" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8369" CreationDate="2019-04-02T06:47:11.833" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I finally found out two causes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The 3D printer has default settings for ABS, and since there is no printer bed settings in ReplicatorG, the bed temperature was set to 110&amp;nbsp;°C instead of &amp;nbsp;60°C. I fixed the setting directly on the printer itself.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;It seems that one side of the printer bed was little closer to the nozzle than other sides (relatively to the extruder) and this added a pressure on the support layer. I found this by observing the structure of the support layer that was little more compressed in one side. That was easy to fix by iteratively tightening/loosening the screw of that side and observing the support layer (and canceling the print if it is not homogeneous).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I installed Ultimaker Cura and Slic3r to try them and I found that Ultimaker Cura was not adapted to my printer (I did not found a complying model), Slic3r seems to be okay but I was not able to fit my big part inside of it.&#xA;I am trying to use the maximum available space for my part, perhaps I need to change some settings for Slic3r and anyway it is already working on ReplicatorG.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14654" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-04-02T07:31:01.480" LastActivityDate="2019-04-02T07:31:01.480" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8598" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8594" CreationDate="2019-04-02T09:02:00.343" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;First things first: Resin is very aggressive. It can very easily make you hypersensitive, even to the fumes of it. So step 1 is easy:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Limit exposure&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wear gloves when working with resin. As you live with your printer in the same room, bottle up the resin right after use and only open it during use to prevent buildup over time and exposure. To further reduce the exposure, leave the room while printing if possible and ventilate the room after bottling the resin again. Possibly even wear breathing protection during operation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Enclose and seal the machine&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To keep the vapors away from you, the machine needs to be enclosed airtight. Any lids need to get a seal, non-opening joints of the frame need to be sealed with a sealant like silicone. Often it is hard to retrofit an enclosure to seal up the workspace.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to enclose the full machine, I suggest using glass sheets and silicone sealant for the whole inside. Brace the construction from the outside with L-profiles along the corners and joints. The most tricky part will be the opening hatch and wiring/ducting access hole. The opening seal needs a sealing lid all around that gets compressed on closing the machine up and some kind of lock to keep it this way. The air filtration and wire access are just hard to make because of their circular shape. You might want to use a wooden or metal base plate, so it is best to put ventilation through the base. In case of wood, afterward coat the inside surface with a thin layer of an airtight material, such as epoxy resin or silicone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Low presssure operation by ventilating the machine&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The next best thing to isolating the machine workspace from the air completely is to make it a low-pressure operation. This means that you evacuate the air from the machine. The imperfect seals now work against a high pressure outside and low pressure inside, meaning that the flow in any non-sealed spot only knows one direction: into the machine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Ventilation outside...&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/8595/8884&quot;&gt;Fred's answer&lt;/a&gt; provides good basics on how to do this in general by using parts for Laser evacuation. This is also the most space-economic way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;...and filtering.&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But there are (partial) indoor solutions even, based on ventilating the air from the printer into a multi-stage air filter could reduce or eliminate the amount of chemical exposure. This is not a slim piece of foam, it is a boxy setup with about 3 to 6 stages of filtering. Among dry-filters, a paint-filter in combination with an active coal one should eliminate a large portion of irritants from the stream, but might still need to be vented outside to reduce exposure even more. A 'wet' air filter, where the exhaust of the machine is pearled through a basin of a cleaning liquid (often water or a solvent like isopropylic alcohol) like in an aquarium could help to catch even more chemicals but is bulky.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:29:41.667" LastActivityDate="2019-04-02T09:14:54.427" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8601" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8515" CreationDate="2019-04-02T15:54:59.203" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;What constitutes too hot? A Hybrid stepper motor operating at 80 degrees is normal. They dissipate heat via their mounting plate (which should not be plastic), otherwise you may need to use active cooling. Now if the motors are dying from the heat then you have a problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12857" LastActivityDate="2019-04-02T15:54:59.203" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8602" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-04-02T17:49:46.540" Score="1" ViewCount="96" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am using Ultimaker Cura to print what are essentially cookie cutters - a thin wall that is a silhouette of the shape. I would like to have a broader surface for the top. In Ultimaker Cura, I set it to print a wider &quot;initial layer&quot; but this initial layer is printed both inside and outside the print. Is there a setting I can use to print the initial layer outside the print? I am using Fusion 360 to create the model and would like to avoid having to build this separate layer for every model I build, unless it can be done fairly easily as these shapes will vary for each model.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As an additional question, what would be the best way to split an image into individual pieces - one for the outline of the whole shape and individual pieces for each distinct part of the image, say eyes, nose, mouth - that you would use to build the image after you cut out the pieces? I've tried using InkScape but I am not able to get it to divide them into clean pieces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15022" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-04-02T21:20:41.240" LastActivityDate="2019-04-05T12:48:17.900" Title="Print initial layer only on outside of print" Tags="|3d-models|ultimaker-cura|fusion360|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8603" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2019-04-02T20:14:54.267" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Its main types are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Linear power supply&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Switching-mode power supply&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It can be stabilized or not. A stabilized power supply has electronics to provide such an outgoing current, whose characteristics are independent from the changes in the external power, or from some changes in the power supply itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="132" LastEditorUserId="132" LastEditDate="2019-04-03T21:42:06.920" LastActivityDate="2019-04-03T21:42:06.920" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8604" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2019-04-02T20:14:54.267" Score="0" Body="A part of a device which converts the current of the power network to the properties required by the device." OwnerUserId="132" LastEditorUserId="132" LastEditDate="2019-04-03T21:42:24.227" LastActivityDate="2019-04-03T21:42:24.227" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8605" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19013" CreationDate="2019-04-02T21:07:45.463" Score="2" ViewCount="304" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm having a problem where the relative dimensional error of cylinders is rapidly increasing as the absolute size decreases. Printing a calibration stack of cylinders of diameters 8, 7, 6, 5, 4, and 3 mm, they come out undersized by 5%, 5.3%, 7%, 8%, 10%, and 13%, respectively, as measured by a digital caliper. Cubes exhibit a less severe version of the same pattern: 2.5%, 3%, 5%, 4%, 5%, 7%. The cylinders are generated with OpenSCAD using &lt;code&gt;$fn=180&lt;/code&gt;, i.e. they're actually extrusions of 180-gons, so the error should not be caused by poor chord approximation; indeed, measuring projections of the model, or reading the gcode and accounting for nozzle width, everything looks right.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Printer is Ender 3, using PLA at 210. Slicing with CuraEngine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could this be caused by underextrusion or print speed issues - or some effect where the material pulls itself together under tight curvature? What techniques might be able to compensate for it, short of fudging the model?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some additional information: As noted by Trish in the comments, the consistency of the absolute error, which is 0.4 for cylinders and 0.2 for cubes, is likely important. I've also subsequently tested with 110% extrusion rate and the errors for the cylinders dropped to consistently 0.2 mm (still a significant increasing relative error), but the skin layers at the top of the 3 mm cylinder bulged, suggesting the increased extrusion is wrong - an excessive total volume of material.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastEditorUserId="11157" LastEditDate="2019-04-02T22:26:40.080" LastActivityDate="2022-02-26T20:01:01.360" Title="Progressively worse relative size error at smaller absolute sizes" Tags="|print-quality|calibration|creality-ender-3|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8606" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8605" CreationDate="2019-04-02T22:28:02.797" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should not look at the relative dimensional differences, you should be looking at the absolute differences. Multiplying the undersized dimensions in percentage with the cylinder diameter gives you a value of 0.4 &amp;nbsp;mm for each cylinder give or take a few hundreds. So, basically your printer works very consistent it is just suffering from a systematic offset.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically, the printing process needs to&#xA;adjust the X-Y dimensions to compensate for plastic flow effects. An option or setting in Ultimaker Cura to counteract this is called &lt;code&gt;Horizontal﻿ ﻿Expansio﻿n&lt;/code&gt;. Slic3r and Simplify3d have similar settings. In Slic3r it is called &lt;code&gt;XY size compensation&lt;/code&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2019-04-02T22:28:02.797" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8607" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8605" CreationDate="2019-04-03T00:41:17.060" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The increase of the &lt;em&gt;relative error&lt;/em&gt; is not an anomaly, it is a direct result of what is the actual error: There is a systematic, &lt;strong&gt;absolute error&lt;/strong&gt;, which is almost the same for all the cylinders and all the cubes. +0.2 mm or +0.4 mm on progressively smaller items gets a progressively bigger relative error. But the source of the absolute error is what you need to compensate for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Fighting bulging for 0.2 mm accuracy&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you figured out that 110% extrusion did halve the absolute error of the cylindrical test, in conjunction with layer deformation, I suggest to try this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Extrusion/Flow Multiplier 100 %&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Linewidth 0.44 to 0.45 mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This fights the die swell but also spaces the walls and roofing lines, allowing them to take the extra material. 0.2 mm accuracy is pretty good for a start, you get into the specs of many parts with that, but we want more!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a slight increase, measure your filament in a couple of spots and do the average, then use that as filament diameter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Increasing Accuracy further&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to &lt;a href=&quot;https://all3dp.com/2/3d-printer-tolerance-test-and-improve-your-3d-printer-s-tolerances/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;go further&lt;/a&gt;, proper calibration of the &lt;a href=&quot;https://all3dp.com/2/how-to-calibrate-a-3d-printer-simply-explained/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;motion system&lt;/a&gt; and the &lt;a href=&quot;https://all3dp.com/2/extruder-calibration-6-easy-steps-2/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;extruder&lt;/a&gt; are the next steps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Short Calibration Rundown&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rundown is extruder first, then possibly the axis.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Connect your printer to the PC with an interface such as Pronterface or Repetier Host.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Place a mark 150 mm from the intake of the printer&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Extrude 100 mm via &lt;code&gt;G1 E100 F100&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Measure from the intake to the mark.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Get the current steps per mm via &lt;code&gt;M503&lt;/code&gt; - it is the E-entry that follows &lt;code&gt;M92&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Calculate &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$\frac {\text{current steps per mm }\times 100}{150 - \text {remaining length}}=\text {new steps per mm}$&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Set the new steps per mm via &lt;code&gt;M92 E###.#&lt;/code&gt; and save with &lt;code&gt;M500&lt;/code&gt;, verify with &lt;code&gt;M503&lt;/code&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The process for the XYZ axis is pretty much the same, but you don't need to mark filament. Instead, print a known size cube, best with a side length that is a multiple of 10 mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Calculate &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$\frac {\text{current steps per mm }\times \text{ designed length}}{\text {actual length}}=\text {new steps per mm}$&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:29:41.667" LastActivityDate="2019-04-03T06:35:50.287" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8610" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8611" CreationDate="2019-04-04T03:14:38.240" Score="5" ViewCount="268" Body="&lt;p&gt;The expert mode of Slic3r PE has almost a dozen speed values:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GqkFo.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GqkFo.png&quot; alt=&quot;Expert mode speed settings in Slic3r PE&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I understand that ultimately print speed at a particular temperature correlates with bond strength, so things like bridges and the first layer having different speeds are reasonable. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What about the rest? Why does infill have 3 variations? How are the different categories listed impacted distinctly from any other form of layer/path bonding?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14300" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-04-04T06:54:52.430" LastActivityDate="2021-01-14T22:45:41.807" Title="Why are there so many print speed parameters in slicers?" Tags="|slicing|slic3r|speed|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8611" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8610" CreationDate="2019-04-04T04:01:09.730" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are multiple parameters because of the trade-off at print speeds.&#xA;Slow printing will have less ghosting and a better overall quality, but it takes way more time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fast printing will be fast (oh thank you, Captain Obvious), but you will get stronger ghostings and poorer line quality overall. Maybe some strange artifacts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But you don't need a good print quality in areas that are not visible at all, but you do need it for the outer shell. Also, is the travel mostly just something that you want done as fast as possible but maybe not so fast that that the whole printer starts shaking?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, you want to set different parameters for different parts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next reason: most slicers are used for a large variation of printers, and every printer is a litte bit different—even the same printer type with different addons (like a vanilla Anet A8 vs. a beefed up Anet A8). For the slicer to be able to be used by all these printers, it is necessary to be able to set multiple parameters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To get deeper into your question about the different infill speeds: if you print a solid infill you will also need to give the printed material more time to cool down, because it is packed tightly and there is not much surface area for heat to get away. If you print these areas too fast you will end up with a part that is too warm and warps and deforms all the time while the next layers were printed on already, inserting even more heat into the part and isolating the warm parts from the outside. You can observe similar behavior when printing overhanging areas with thick walls: there the part will stay in a semi-solid state, and deforms all the time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But how fast you have to go depends on the cooling system you have on your printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9575" LastEditorUserId="11255" LastEditDate="2021-01-14T22:45:41.807" LastActivityDate="2021-01-14T22:45:41.807" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8612" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8561" CreationDate="2019-04-04T05:31:03.540" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Answer taken from OP's question&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;****Fixed it!****&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Reset bed height to clear nozzle by 0.04 mm. Printed on raft.  I appreciate the answers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4762" LastActivityDate="2019-04-04T05:31:03.540" CommentCount="1" CommunityOwnedDate="2019-04-04T05:31:03.540" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8613" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6716" CreationDate="2019-04-04T06:09:24.770" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Having asthma, I'm very sensitive to air quality and when i first started 3D printing i quickly noticed a sore throat, feeling out of breath, headaches and well the smell.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One thing many beginners overlook is material oozing out of the extruder in places other than the nozzle itself. This causes a dirty extruder head which 'burns' that material and thus creating a ton of air pollution and a nasty smell.&#xA;As a fix, i took my extruder head apart and reassembled it with PTFE tape on all the threads. The oozing and burned smell of material is now completely gone, my initial health issues have also gone away.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This does not take away the fact that ultrafine particles are still being generated, but you will not notice this problem in an acute way. If you print daily use a fume extractor, your lungs cannot clean out this size of particles. The health effects will be similar as living near a busy street or highway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One last thing few people mention: cleaning up parts. When you file or sand down parts this creates a lot of very fine dust, and since plastics are electrostatic this becomes very hard to clean up. I now use an extraction fan whenever I'm cleaning up a printed part.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14813" LastActivityDate="2019-04-04T06:09:24.770" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8615" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-04-04T23:36:47.190" Score="3" ViewCount="2068" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been having trouble uploading the TH3DUF_R2 firmware to my CR-10.  I've already successfully flashed the bootloader using my Arduino,  but when I try to upload the bootloader I get this error:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;code&gt;avrdude: ser_open(): can't set com-state for &quot;\\.\COM4&quot;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Things I've tried:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Changing the usb drivers&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Changing the baud rate&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Using a different computers without any other usb devices&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My printer is not functional right now with just a bootloader and no firmware, so I'm not really sure where to go from here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15043" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-04-05T06:04:20.333" LastActivityDate="2020-04-04T01:48:25.067" Title="Error when trying to upload firmware to cr-10" Tags="|troubleshooting|creality-cr-10|usb|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8616" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-04-05T01:18:45.910" Score="13" ViewCount="104570" Body="&lt;p&gt;Anyone have any idea how much power it takes to run a Creality Ender 3 3D printer every day for several hours at a time? Like what does it eat up per hour? A rough estimate of power use per hour would be nice, then I can figure out how much it costs me. Can anyone help me?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15047" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-01-12T09:13:48.123" LastActivityDate="2024-01-01T15:11:07.207" Title="Creality Ender 3 printer power consumption?" Tags="|creality-ender-3|cost|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8617" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3853" CreationDate="2019-04-05T03:32:17.337" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;I might be late to the party, but I have a suggestion. Why not use ASA filament, it's the kind of plastic used in car cup holders, lawn rakes and sprinkler heads, it is both heat and cold resistant, as well as solar stable and weatherproof. As far as printing with it it is similar to printing in ABS as far as I am aware, I might be wrong though. I personally am surprised how often this kind of question pops up and literally No One mentions ASA filament. I think I might buy some because I like the idea of printing something that can be left outside.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15047" LastActivityDate="2019-04-05T03:32:17.337" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8619" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-04-05T04:48:44.687" Score="1" ViewCount="785" Body="&lt;p&gt;I printed the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2183259&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;following object&lt;/a&gt; (&lt;em&gt;I'm printing the single opening version, Flower_pot_3.STL&lt;/em&gt;), and observed an unusual print artifact. I would like some idea of what's going on so I can avoid it in the future. The object is essentially an open-top box. In the image below, you can see a ridge along the bottom of the print. This corresponds to the upper surface of the bottom side of the box. The ridge is present for 4 layers, the same number of layers on the top surface. The defect is basically a positive ridge all the way around (not a layer shift). The G-code render below is for the top layer of the bottom surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;System Settings&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Printer is Prusa Mk3, with white PLA plastic. Nozzle is HS steel at 210&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;0.2&amp;nbsp;mm Layer height, 15&amp;nbsp;% Gyroid infill, 3 perimeters&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Perimeters are printed first each layer, with the outer perimeter coming last.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA; - &#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3b9Ce.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3b9Ce.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Image attempting to highlight flaw&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eJ03b.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eJ03b.png&quot; alt=&quot;G-code preview of top layer of the bottom surface of the print&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ideally, I would like to know what caused this artifact, and what I could do to avoid it in the future. I can add more information as requested.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11222" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-04-05T22:07:22.317" LastActivityDate="2020-04-03T14:10:32.833" Title="Odd print artifacts on same layer as large top surface" Tags="|print-quality|prusa-i3|pla|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8620" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8619" CreationDate="2019-04-05T07:01:19.273" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just a guess here. If I understood correctly the deformation is at the first layer of the box bottom, it seems highly unlikely that it randomly happened at this exact position so I am assuming that if you do the print again you will get the same deformation at the same place (you can test this maybe ? I know it is a long print). In this case it is more likely that is a slicer issue than something with your machine and it could also be a problem with the stl model. Maybe try to create a small simple box then slice it using the same setting and try to see if you can reproduce artifact.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15049" LastEditorUserId="11242" LastEditDate="2019-04-05T13:54:04.820" LastActivityDate="2019-04-05T13:54:04.820" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8622" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8602" CreationDate="2019-04-05T12:48:17.900" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The solution to getting the brim set up was to select the area for each individual piece (in GIMP), then duplicate that selection and &quot;grow&quot; it to make it larger to create the lip. From there, I extruded the larger section a few millimeters and extruded the smaller selection on top of that and hollowed it out. Still working on the exact measurements to achieve the lip width and height, but the process is in place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15022" LastActivityDate="2019-04-05T12:48:17.900" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8623" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8616" CreationDate="2019-04-05T14:00:30.180" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;If it is really important to you to know how much you are spending per any given print, your best bet is not to guess, &lt;em&gt;but to know&lt;/em&gt; how much power you're using. To that end, you could purchase a power meter which monitors your power usage. Given the right one, it can even calculate the cost of the power usage all in one little package. This link, &lt;a href=&quot;https://wiki.ezvid.com/best-electricity-usage-monitors&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;The 10 Best Electricity Usage Monitors&lt;/a&gt;, should provide you some ideas as to what you might find, but I'm sure there are plenty more out there (NOTE: I have no affiliation to the link provided ... it was just a random one I found through a Google search ... Go Go Google-Fu!). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As 0scar pointed out in his comment, there are just too many variables to try and guess what the power consumption &lt;em&gt;might be&lt;/em&gt;. If you are looking for a real answer, I believe something along the lines as I've linked above is going to be your best solution to getting a real answer. Anything else is more or less just a guess.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11242" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2019-07-02T06:34:58.903" LastActivityDate="2019-07-02T06:34:58.903" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8624" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-04-05T18:09:44.843" Score="4" ViewCount="2183" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does anybody have an idea what causes the strange outer wall skin texture? I don't know why this happens; the inner wall looks fine, but the outer wall looks distorted. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also it's strange that the distortion only happens on the left side for about 2&amp;nbsp;cm on all prints.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Disabling retraction had no effect. Reducing the printing speed neither improved it.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5gkvj.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5gkvj.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OyVfd.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OyVfd.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/N1Z9j.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/N1Z9j.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: I'm printing at 0.16mm layer height with 98% initial flow rate and 94%. No support.&#xA;Standard PLA with the standard nozzle at 190°C. I am using Cura for slicing if it matters.&#xA;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Printing speed is at 40mm/s for the outer wall and 80mm/s for the inner one. I already tried to decrease the outer wall speed to 20mm/s without any luck. Except for one other print, I never had an issue with those settings.&#xA;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I just finished a print with 100% flow rate to exclude its the flow rate.&#xA;With 100% only the front improved at all.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/w36Ak.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/w36Ak.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Front side&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6iIt2.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6iIt2.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Back side&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15056" LastEditorUserId="15056" LastEditDate="2019-04-06T13:26:46.397" LastActivityDate="2019-04-10T14:56:29.080" Title="Strange outer skin print quality on Ender 3" Tags="|print-quality|troubleshooting|creality-ender-3|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8625" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8616" CreationDate="2019-04-05T19:11:11.503" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm currently measuring the power usage of my Ender 3. It used about 0.5&amp;nbsp;kWh for 4 hours of printing. With 2 heat ups (about 280&amp;nbsp;W each). So approximately 120&amp;nbsp;W average.&#xA;Or 0.12&amp;nbsp;kWh per hour.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assumed your printing 12&amp;nbsp;h a day you're using 1.5&amp;nbsp;kWh a day. That translates into a cost of 0.43&amp;nbsp;€ a day in electricity (0.3&amp;nbsp;€/kWh).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you're using your printer every day for an average of 12&amp;nbsp;h. You'll be using about 525&amp;nbsp;kWh a year or 157&amp;nbsp;€ in electricity at 0.3&amp;nbsp;€/kWh.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15056" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-04-05T21:59:37.033" LastActivityDate="2019-04-05T21:59:37.033" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8626" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-04-06T00:02:38.257" Score="2" ViewCount="3700" Body="&lt;p&gt;Has anyone had any luck with printing multi-colored prints with the Palette 2 on an Ender 3? If so, what is your steps/mm for the Ender 3 and your flow rate in whatever slicer you are using? I currently have my flow rate at 100&amp;nbsp;% and my steps/mm at 104.4, and I believe this is what is causing my Palette 2 to not produce accurate results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;About the Palette 2&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.mosaicmfg.com/products/palette-2&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Palette 2&lt;/a&gt; is a separate device providing one multi color filament out of multiple single color filaments.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As the Ender 3 does not support multi-colour printing, that's why I'm using the Palette 2. It allows any printer to print in multi color as it adds multi color printing to single extruder printers.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15063" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2019-05-30T23:56:57.397" LastActivityDate="2019-05-30T23:56:57.397" Title="Palette 2 with an Ender 3 Printer" Tags="|print-quality|extruder|ultimaker-cura|creality-ender-3|pallete-2|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ClosedDate="2019-04-25T20:55:33.130" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8627" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-04-06T03:01:29.817" Score="2" ViewCount="196" Body="&lt;p&gt;This may be a long shot, but I was wondering if the signals seen across a stepper motor's windings could indicate whether the stepper was being told to move over some short time period.  This is in particular for the stepper used on extruders.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've read that PWM in used in stepper drivers and controls current patterns to move the motor.  And that a current must also be maintained through the windings if the motor is to hold its position.  So it would seem that there is always a pulsing waveform across the windings whenever the stepper is energized, correct?  When the motor is holding its position, is there anything distinctive about the waveform?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is for a filament sensor I'd like to make.  The sensor would be located at the extruder motor.  It would monitor movement/flow of the solid filament.  A lack of filament flow could be because of filament runout, tangled or caught filament, or non-extruding travel moves. I'd like to be able to tell the first two causes from the last one (when it's not supposed to be extruding for some hundreds of milliseconds or so).  It would also be nice to tell 'no directed movement' from 'very slow movement' which would happen with small nozzles, slow speed or other slow extrusion situations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I watched the waveforms with an oscilloscope while printing, but travel moves were quick and relatively rare, so I couldn't definitely see if there was something I could use during those times. Could I just filter the pulse waveform (what corner frequency?) to get an approximation of the current waveform going through the coils -- on the idea that the waveform should resemble a DC level during non-extruding but still energized times.  Perhaps another low-pass filtering of that DC level, or a high-pass of the waveform to indicate directed extrusion?  Using DSP on a micro, of course.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any experts here on the subject of low-level stepper motor control?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15064" LastActivityDate="2019-05-16T15:53:38.507" Title="Is there any (relatively simple) way to determine whether a stepper is being directed to move by the voltage signal across its winding?" Tags="|extrusion|stepper-driver|stepper|extruder-driver|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8629" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-04-06T08:26:40.260" Score="3" ViewCount="1193" Body="&lt;p&gt;When filament is too short for the extruder to push will there be a stop in printing on the Ender 3, meaning that I should replace the filament when the end of the filament is near the extruder?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15068" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2019-04-10T21:15:49.123" LastActivityDate="2019-04-25T06:32:52.467" Title="Filament Length too short for extruder to push filament" Tags="|filament|extruder|hotend|creality-ender-3|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8632" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8629" CreationDate="2019-04-06T13:38:28.643" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The extruder can't push anymore when the filament is past the extruder gear. If your filament has run out to that point, the print will &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; halt but print without a filament, meaning that the print will fail. You need to pause the print in time and then put fresh filament into the printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the end of the filament is cut flat at the end and the new one is flat too, the new filament can push the old one out to the nozzle, reducing the waste to a minimum, if you can live without retraction for the amount of length that has to be used up. You could friction weld the two parts together to alleviate this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2019-04-25T06:32:52.467" LastActivityDate="2019-04-25T06:32:52.467" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8633" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8627" CreationDate="2019-04-06T16:32:32.917" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;So it would seem that there is always a pulsing waveform across the windings whenever the stepper is energized, correct?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Correct.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;When the motor is holding its position, is there anything distinctive about the waveform?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Phds2oFOIYg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Yes there is&lt;/a&gt;. This video contains a short example of what the current waveforms would look like.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I understand you correctly: You want to detect filament events based by doing current sensing on the phases of the stepper motor. The simple of it is that, if the motor is not turning then the &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Counter-electromotive_force&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Back ElectroMotive Force&lt;/a&gt; will be zero. As the speed increases the BEMF goes up, which causes the current levels to go down. Is this how stall detection in some driver systems work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may be able to determine if what you want to do is even practical by studying the fundamentals of stepper motor driving; both &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.arrow.com/en/research-and-events/articles/voltage-versus-current-mode-control-in-stepper-motors&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;voltage mode and current mode&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Apart from that it may be just as practical to use a &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rotary_encoder&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;rotary encoder&lt;/a&gt; upstream of the extruder motor to detect the filament movement, or lack thereof.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In your case detecting if the filament is present but not moving calls for stall detection. If the PWM pulse occurs but the rate at which the voltage increased (the slope) did not change, then there was no BEMF event. The lack of such an event would indicate that the rotor did not move. If there is no filament to push, then when the rotor moves it will &lt;em&gt;ring&lt;/em&gt; (overshoot it's target position and fluctuate back and forth until it settles into the electrical position that the controller intended), because the mechanical load has changed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a NEMA17 stepper, these would be very small change in a very brief event. I would start with installing &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.sparkfun.com/products/14544&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;current sensors&lt;/a&gt; on both phases, and then doing some signal processing on top of that. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12857" LastEditorUserId="12857" LastEditDate="2019-05-15T17:46:27.273" LastActivityDate="2019-05-15T17:46:27.273" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8634" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-04-06T17:27:36.820" Score="2" ViewCount="1162" Body="&lt;p&gt;Whenever I print, I tend to have a small dent that appears on several of my prints, that are not in the original design. These are not following the layer orientation. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as I notice, nothing blocks the extruder of my prusa-i3. I print with PLA, so not a material where I would expect weird behaviour.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cZADy.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cZADy.png&quot; alt=&quot;Dent problem image&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What could cause that problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9438" LastActivityDate="2019-04-06T20:36:54.470" Title="Small dent problem" Tags="|print-quality|prusa-i3|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8635" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8638" CreationDate="2019-04-06T19:11:09.137" Score="4" ViewCount="3358" Body="&lt;p&gt;When houses are printed with concrete cement what replaces the steel rebar for reinforcement?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a link referencing printing concrete: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.aniwaa.com/house-3d-printer-construction/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.aniwaa.com/house-3d-printer-construction/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;House 3D printers use extrusion technology. Some construction 3D printers look like super-sized desktop FFF/FDM 3D printers (gantry style), whereas others consist of a rotating mechanical arm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In both cases, paste-type components such as concrete are used as filament. The material is pushed out of a special nozzle to form layers. To put it (very) simply, paste extrusion is similar using a piping bag to spread frosting on a cake.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The printer creates the foundations and walls of the house or building, layer by layer. The ground is literally the printer’s build plate. Some concrete 3D printers, however, are used to 3D print brick molds. When molded, the bricks are then piled atop each other manually (or with a robotic arm).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Like most of the people here my experience is with a printer (RepRap) that can use PLA or ABS. With all the materials normally put into concrete, using an extrusion printer to print concrete is puzzling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15075" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2021-12-15T21:16:40.063" LastActivityDate="2021-12-15T21:16:40.063" Title="What is the reinforcement for 3D printing concrete cement?" Tags="|print-material|concrete-printers|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8636" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8634" CreationDate="2019-04-06T20:36:54.470" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;This looks very much like it is the seam between the outer perimeters that is placed one over the other. This can be solved by choosing a different Z-seam alignment. In Ultimatker Cura, the setting is called &lt;code&gt;Z-seam alignment&lt;/code&gt; and should be set to &lt;code&gt;random&lt;/code&gt; for cylindrical items.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastActivityDate="2019-04-06T20:36:54.470" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8637" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1083" CreationDate="2019-04-06T21:35:53.730" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;wall size and filling are also parameters.&#xA;If wall size is too thin delamination is more visible&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15078" LastActivityDate="2019-04-06T21:35:53.730" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8638" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8635" CreationDate="2019-04-07T07:23:55.670" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is no reinforcement. You can use this ‘printing’ solution for walls but by default not for floors. There are experiments that use the solution to span a gap but they use relatively thick plates. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, see this paper, &lt;a href=&quot;https://pure.tue.nl/ws/files/99514754/Design_of_a_3D_printed_concrete_bridge_by_testing.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Design of a 3D printed concrete bridge by testing&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15081" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2019-04-09T14:00:00.433" LastActivityDate="2019-04-09T14:00:00.433" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8639" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8512" CreationDate="2019-04-07T16:34:30.210" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The right path seems to be enabling retraction, but tuning the retraction and print speed settings. I started out by dropping all speed settings to 30. With retraction disabled, this turned the stringing into solid walls between paths, with only a tiny gap at the very start of the wall, right after the extruder stopped:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/StzqN.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/StzqN.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This suggested that the sudden drop in pressure at the nozzle is cutting off the string momentarily. Back to that thought in a bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Independently of the pressure thought, I decided to turn retraction back on, but with &lt;em&gt;really&lt;/em&gt; slow retraction speed. This helped a lot, but probably not the way I expected; I think what it did was give the nozzle time to ooze at the point where retraction happens, rather than in the travel path. I also turned off &lt;code&gt;infill_before_walls&lt;/code&gt;, so that the retraction and potential oozing would happen in the infill region rather than walls, and increased the travel speed way up to 200 to take best advantage of the moment where oozing is interrupted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At this point, I'm getting almost-acceptable results with &lt;code&gt;retraction_retract_speed&lt;/code&gt; set to 5 (vs default 25), default retraction amount, and &lt;code&gt;speed_travel&lt;/code&gt; of 200:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5MSpu.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5MSpu.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Back to the pressure idea, I'm thinking that the right solution is probably to perform the retraction concurrently with the travel, keeping some negative pressure the whole time, and possibly jerking the extruder back further just before hitting the travel destination to prevent a string from forming there. Cura has no features to do anything like that, but it shouldn't be difficult as post-processing on the gcode. I might try prototyping it like that to see if it works.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2019-04-07T16:34:30.210" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8640" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8534" CreationDate="2019-04-07T19:56:53.150" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/openscad/openscad/issues/2894&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;filed this issue as a bug with the OpenSCAD project&lt;/a&gt;, and there is now &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/openscad/openscad/pull/2895&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;a fix merged into master&lt;/a&gt;, as well as a test case to prevent regression. The latest nightly builds should handle this correctly from here on out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12562" LastActivityDate="2019-04-07T19:56:53.150" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8641" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8642" CreationDate="2019-04-08T01:05:38.823" Score="5" ViewCount="2254" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been wondering this for a while, and have searched for hours and have found nothing except undetailed explanations and projects.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How does a UV LCD 3D resin printer cure resin exactly? I understand there is an LCD screen, but where does the UV light come from? Where is it placed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15087" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2019-10-02T10:15:04.810" LastActivityDate="2019-10-02T10:15:04.810" Title="How does a UV LCD 3D resin printer work?" Tags="|sla|knowledgebase|resin|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8642" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8641" CreationDate="2019-04-08T01:15:06.363" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm surprised your research hasn't answered your question, as the concept is relatively simple. You have most of the answer in the question. The missing item is a light source. Usually the source is an array of ultraviolet LED modules. There are resin printers that would not be called LCD printers, as they use computer display projectors to generate both the image and the UV to cure the resin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A rather extensive list of various resin printers can be found at &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.aniwaa.com/the-best-resin-3d-printer-sla-and-dlp/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;aniwaa.com&lt;/a&gt; along with a clear explanation of the technologies.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The image below is courtesy of the link in the previous paragraph.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LSzPW.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LSzPW.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;printer diagram&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The light source that answers your question is visible in the third picture. As noted, the LCD panel blocks the light based on the image to be cured. I think the &quot;uses its own light&quot; is somewhat misleading, unless the builder has found a high-UV output LED LCD panel or is using daylight resins and has configured for long burn-in times.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastEditorUserId="854" LastEditDate="2019-04-09T07:49:29.320" LastActivityDate="2019-04-09T07:49:29.320" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8643" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8512" CreationDate="2019-04-08T01:47:47.023" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;OK, this turned out to be really idiotic. The main source of the problem was Cura's custom start gcode for my printer (Ender 3), maybe duplicated for other printers too: it crams a massive amount of filament through the extruder to prime it. With flexible filament, this doesn't actually extrude most of it; rather, it just builds up as pressure in the bowden, which makes the first few [tens of] layers ooze like crazy, and then the hot nozzle picks up the ooze and drags it all over the place, and yay, stringing everywhere!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A previous version of this answer (see edit history) described a lot of options I was using to try to improve things, some of them rather dubious. Really, the core of the matter, which can manifest in lots of ways, is that if pressure builds up in the extruder due compression of the material being easier than forcing it through the nozzle, it will ooze during travel, or as a glob prior to travel during ineffective retraction, and either way it will eventually lead to catastrophic stringing. So to solve this, I needed to address all the ways it could happen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;First was the start gcode. I dropped the extruded material amount over 200mm for the priming from 15mm to 9mm (about 90% nominal material needed rather than 150%) and edited the custom end gcode to revert all but 1mm of the retraction it does, after homing. This reduces the need for wacky over-priming at print start, and makes the state after printing roughly match the state after loading filament, so that print results are independent of whether filament was just loaded or not.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Second, pressure can build up again if the extrusion rate is too high for the material, nozzle size, and temperature. At 30 mm/s print rate and 0.3 mm layers, I found I need a ridiculously high temperature like 235 °C to keep it flowing. This in turn produced a lot of sagging of overhangs, so really 0.3 mm layers seem to need significantly slower printing, defeating the purpose. 0.2-0.25 mm seems to flow marginally ok at 30 mm/s and 215°C, which is better behaved with regard to overhangs, and fine at 225 °C.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I'd noticed previously (in the previous version of this answer) a problem with layer adhesion with temperatures lower than 225 °C. This was not actually a layer adhesion problem but rather an underextrusion problem, the same one causing stringing.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The retraction amount still needs to be sufficient to account for the compression of the material in the bowden, plus enough to get it backed out of the hotend. I seem to need at least 15 mm, compared to 5 mm for plain PLA. Note that retraction min travel needs to be disabled (set to 0) to prevent skipping retraction for short moves, where stringing will be the worst.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Higher retraction speeds seem to work better, and without them the 15 mm retraction is miserably slow. However, I found that my printer's default limits on extruder feedrate and jerk were very low. Adding &lt;code&gt;M203 E200&lt;/code&gt; and &lt;code&gt;M205 E25&lt;/code&gt; to the custom start gcode made it honor my requests for faster retraction, and doesn't seem to have any ill effects.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In summary, the settings that work for me are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;All print speed settings: 30 mm/s or less&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Travel speed: 250 mm/s&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Retraction amount 15 mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Retraction speed: 150 mm/s&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Retraction combing: all&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Retraction hop: disabled&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Retraction min travel: 0 mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Temperature: 235 for 0.3 mm layers, 215 for 0.2 mm layers&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And the results:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/w23Fq.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;test print with no stringing&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LbRXP.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;frog with support, no stringing&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/R3hqk.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;frog with support removed&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastEditorUserId="11157" LastEditDate="2019-05-18T01:35:56.570" LastActivityDate="2019-05-18T01:35:56.570" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8644" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8624" CreationDate="2019-04-09T22:50:25.627" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;My best guess is you have an under extrusion issue, possibly related to retraction: the issue is exacerbated on parts where the printer has to hop over a gap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would try running, in the order:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;print a flow rate test, to ensure the amount of filament exiting the nozzle matches with your configuration&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;print a retraction test, to ensure you are not suffering from some bowden tube issues like bad coupling&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;check for any clog in the hot end, those can require a bigger pressure to build up before the filament start flowing again&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;print a temperature tower, to find out if 190° is the right temperature (seems a bit low to me)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With regards to point 2, the Ender 3 is somewhat renown for having poor quality couplers: watch the bowden tube couplers when printing and try to verify the tube is not moving back and forth when hopping over empty spaces...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13989" LastEditorUserId="13989" LastEditDate="2019-04-10T09:56:39.280" LastActivityDate="2019-04-10T09:56:39.280" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8645" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8635" CreationDate="2019-04-10T06:36:05.477" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;To answer your question, they use steel or fiber glass.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why does concrete need reinforcement? Concrete is very useful to absorb compression loads, but breaks and cracks very easily when subjected to tension loads. Rebar, or steel constructions are added to strengthen the concrete to bear the tension loads. My house has walls that are littered with steel wires/fibers of about 10 cm (about 4 inches) and about 1.5 mm in diameter close to the surface (drilling holes into the wall frequently means hitting such a fiber which comes out and leaves a scar on the wall...). My walls are constructed in a factory flat on the ground, those fibers are added to prevent shrink cracks in the first layer of the wall (the side you always look at); after that, rebar is added and the rest of the wall is cast and after drying the wall is put upright and transported to the build site.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Injection of fibers is not new to 3D printing; it is already possible to print short fibers embedded in filament, or continuous where filament and thermoplastic material join together in the nozzle. The company I work for creates molds and aerospace parts this way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can imagine that it would be possible to print concrete with fibers/wires or continuously with wires. Technically this should be feasible, but I guess that larger diameter wire (rebar) is actually needed instead of relatively small diameter wires. Also, fibers can only be laid down in the direction of travel of the nozzle, not perpendicular to. Rebar often shows strengthening in multiple (three) dimensions, that is not possible with 3D printing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is some reported success on printing reinforced concrete:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.tue.nl/en/news/news-overview/17-10-2017-worlds-first-3d-printed-reinforced-concrete-bridge-opened/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;BAM Infra&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;“They have succeeded in developing a process to also print the steel&#xA;  reinforcement at the same time. When laying a strip of concrete the&#xA;  concrete printer adds a steel cable so that the slab is ‘prestressed’&#xA;  so that no tensile stress can occur in the concrete.”&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4xHou.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4xHou.png&quot; alt=&quot;Concrete bridge element with rebar for pretension&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But this means that the print is a part printed at another location, not on location.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is also some success with using horizontal fiberglass reinforcements within the walls during the printing process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See e.g. &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.engineering.com/BIM/ArticleID/17459/Study-Explores-3D-Printing-Reinforcement-Possibilities.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this reference&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.researchgate.net/publication/322168435_3D_Printing_Concrete_with_Reinforcement&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this reference&lt;/a&gt; for more information on reinforced concrete printing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-04-10T09:35:38.387" LastActivityDate="2019-04-10T09:35:38.387" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8646" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-04-10T08:14:57.157" Score="3" ViewCount="73" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am currently using Ultimaker 2+ to print some big parts with PLA. As long as the printing lasts for less than 15 hours (that's what I observed by experience, approximately), there are no problems. &#xA;If the duration of printing is greater than this time, the part would get shifted from its initial position. It looks like the part is not sticking to the bed anymore. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was first using classic glue sticks and this problem occurred. Next, I tried with different masking tapes but the problem remains the same. The glass bed is &lt;strong&gt;not&lt;/strong&gt; heated. The first layer and the following are actually pretty clean. I use brim. I reduced the printing speed to 20 mm/s on purpose to see if it would reduce the probability of this phenomenon to occur. However, this is not the case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do you have any experience concerning this problem, ideas, suggestions?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15099" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2019-04-11T17:36:51.670" LastActivityDate="2019-04-11T17:36:51.670" Title="Long prints shifting with Ultimaker 2" Tags="|print-quality|pla|heated-bed|adhesion|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8647" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8646" CreationDate="2019-04-10T09:45:52.797" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the brim is firmly connected to the part and sufficiently large, you could &quot;duck tape&quot; the brim to the bed after a few hours; by then you should have enough space/clearance to work with. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But maybe the best advice is to invest in a heated bed platform, or use the heated bed if you only did not enable it. Heating the filament to the point close to the glass transition temperature ensures that the printed filament stays ductile. Once filament cools down, it shrinks and cannot grip on the to build plate indefinitely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My Ultimaker 3 uses a heated build platform that can virtually make every filament stick to it as long as you prepare the bed correctly. On glass I prefer to use a specifically designed printing spray called 3DLAC; that, and a little heat (depending on the filament you print; i.e. the glass transition temperature) make that I never have had any problems with getting filament to stick to the build plate. I'm even able to get the slippery filament &lt;a href=&quot;/q/6298&quot;&gt;POM to stick to the heated bed&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2019-04-10T09:45:52.797" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8649" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-04-10T13:35:19.157" Score="4" ViewCount="414" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am curious about the longevity of a PLA printed part used in a commercial application.  It would be a mounting bracket installed in an industrial enclosure.  The internal cabinet temperature would be less than 100&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;F, and have an internal air circulation fan to keep the control PLC cool.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It would be in a steel enclosure, in an industrial environment, with no sunlight or UV exposure. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would the PLA hold up over time, or have any issues with delamination or brittleness?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15103" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2019-04-11T17:35:09.233" LastActivityDate="2019-04-11T20:31:18.213" Title="PLA 3D Print longevity after being printed" Tags="|pla|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8650" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="475" CreationDate="2019-04-10T14:36:47.950" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had the same issue. the only thing that helped me was settings.. uneven surface of layers caused collisions with the nozzle. I adjusted the flow by calibrating my steppers.. also the type of infill pattern you use can cause nozzle collisions. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15104" LastActivityDate="2019-04-10T14:36:47.950" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8652" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-04-10T15:01:21.300" Score="8" ViewCount="1072" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Zonestar Z5FM2 running Marlin 1.1.8 with a mixing extruder. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That is, 2 extruder stepper motors feeding a 2-in 1-out hotend (similar to the E3D cyclops).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm slicing with Simplify3D and I have set up:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;T0 set to the first extruder; &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;T1 set to the second extruder; &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;T2 set to a virtual extruder consisting of a 50/50 mix of extruder 1 and 2(made by having &lt;code&gt;M163 S0 P50&lt;/code&gt; followed by &lt;code&gt;M164 S2&lt;/code&gt; in the start code)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was wondering how you handle the retraction. Currently only the active tool (e.g. extruder motor 1 when using T1) retracts, which leads to a lot of oozing since the filament in the unused half is still applying some pressure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I read that for a setup like mine it is necessary to get both extruders to retract. How do I do that?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've seen the documentation for programming &lt;code&gt;G10/G11&lt;/code&gt; firmware retract with &lt;code&gt;M207&lt;/code&gt; but there does not seem to be a way to specify the tool to use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I could make a find-and-replace post processing script in Simplify3D to replace retracts of T0 or T1 with retracts of T2 (so both motors retract), but then how would I get it to switch back to the proper original tool when resuming printing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a way to address an extruder directly in &lt;code&gt;G1&lt;/code&gt; commands (so I could force both to retract), or temporarily switch a tool for just one command (so I could switch tool for the retract command only and it would go back to printing with the previous tool afterwards)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13828" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2019-04-11T21:13:44.007" LastActivityDate="2019-10-09T14:23:59.587" Title="Handling retraction when using a mixing extruder (2 in 1 out)" Tags="|marlin|extrusion|simplify3d|retraction|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8653" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="475" CreationDate="2019-04-10T15:13:00.480" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have some suggestions that might solve your problem &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Try to use belt tensioner which is suitable from your printer.(You'll probably find one on Thingiverse)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The belt has teeth but your bearing which slides your belt does not. So try a bearing cover that has teeth. That will prevent slipping of the belt.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Most importantly lower your acceleration constant. This has a lot to do with missing steps from the motor.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Decreasing the print speed can help as well.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15105" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-04-10T19:23:19.700" LastActivityDate="2019-04-10T19:23:19.700" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8654" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5465" CreationDate="2019-04-10T16:00:10.650" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Fan blow at hot end is necessary because hotend needs cooling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For PLA it will yield better result with a seperate controllable fan direct airflow across the print head, but just like everything with 3D printing, you will need to test out every possible configuration to get the best for your setup.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15107" LastActivityDate="2019-04-10T16:00:10.650" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8656" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2019-04-10T19:24:17.487" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It was released in 1996, and is being currently maintained by the USB Implementors Forum (USB IF). It has three generations, USB 1.x, USB 2 and USB 3. An USB 4 is predicted to middle 2019.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is a master-slave protocol, supports plug &amp;amp; play, has transfer rate control and supports also power transfer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="132" LastEditorUserId="132" LastEditDate="2019-04-10T20:25:57.563" LastActivityDate="2019-04-10T20:25:57.563" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8657" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2019-04-10T19:24:17.487" Score="0" Body="Universal Serial Bus; an interface standard for connecting computers and electronic devices for communication and charging." OwnerUserId="132" LastEditorUserId="132" LastEditDate="2019-04-10T20:25:52.577" LastActivityDate="2019-04-10T20:25:52.577" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8658" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2019-04-10T22:21:08.263" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The process of determining the location of a 3D printer nozzle in three dimension using a reference point (home location) is referred to as &amp;quot;homing&amp;quot;. Homing should occur before every print and involves bringing the X, Y and Z-Axis motors to predefined limit locations (usually these are end stops). Pre-recorded homing data offset values determine the position of the build plate origin with respect to the end stop locations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Use this tag for all issues related to or during the process of homing a 3D printing machine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-11-26T12:28:47.023" LastActivityDate="2021-11-26T12:28:47.023" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8659" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2019-04-10T22:21:08.263" Score="0" Body="For questions regarding the &quot;homing&quot; (positioning to a known location) of 3D printing devices." OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-04-10T22:21:08.263" LastActivityDate="2019-04-10T22:21:08.263" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8662" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13901" CreationDate="2019-04-11T14:39:30.423" Score="3" ViewCount="6008" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm interested in 3d printed reaction chambers, but can't find any good information on chemical resistances of PLA, just vague claims that it &quot;might not be&quot; &quot;because it's biodegradable&quot; or that it depends on additives (likely true, but it would be nice to know if there's hope of finding PLA without problematic additives if the PLA itself is okay). Is there any published research or even anecdotes (which could suggest it's worth spending effort to investigate further) on this topic?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2022-01-20T05:03:03.823" Title="PLA chemical resistances? Especially HCl, other acids" Tags="|pla|material|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="12" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8663" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-04-11T16:43:17.427" Score="1" ViewCount="296" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm doing some testing for objects in 3D printing for a report. I'm trying to get success metrics for it but a bit unsure of what else I could do since would ideally like hard values for it. For example, I have:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Filament needed&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Volume&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ease of removal&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Weight&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Time of print&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would anyone know anything else? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15122" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2019-04-11T17:10:49.203" LastActivityDate="2019-04-12T10:51:05.373" Title="Success metrics for 3D prints" Tags="|print-quality|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="8" ClosedDate="2019-04-13T13:26:47.103" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8664" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8649" CreationDate="2019-04-11T20:31:18.213" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've had white Hatchbox PLA parts in use outside in direct or partial sun for 3+ years without issue. It may help if you paint the parts for outdoor use, but I suspect the environment you describe would be fine for several years.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="700" LastActivityDate="2019-04-11T20:31:18.213" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8665" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-04-12T06:52:05.117" Score="4" ViewCount="22142" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd like to buy a new nozzle for my Anycubic i3 Mega because it's not precise enough - it fails to print small details like 1&amp;nbsp;mm eyebrows.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Currently it has a 0.4&amp;nbsp;mm nozzle and I'd like to buy a better one but I don't know how to choose one which is compatible with this printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have any advice, please let me know.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15130" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2019-04-12T08:18:33.143" LastActivityDate="2024-01-24T13:42:45.730" Title="Which nozzle should I buy for Anycubic i3 Mega?" Tags="|nozzle|anycubic-i3-mega|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8666" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-04-12T07:49:08.763" Score="2" ViewCount="134" Body="&lt;p&gt;We have a fairly new Ultimaker 3 Extended.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When printing ABS with the AA0.8 nozzle and the recommended settings (up-to-date CURA) we receive a very poor wall quality that exposes some kind of pores. I've attached an image of those pores.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I assume those pores are dragged by the nozzle when it moves inwards to print the infill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I already tried to increase the wall thickness or increase the layer height to 0.3&amp;nbsp;mm. Are there other settings I might be able to tweak to eliminate those pores? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Rk9Lp.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Outer wall with pores&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Rk9Lp.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Outer wall with pores&quot; title=&quot;Outer wall with pores&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15131" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2019-08-31T08:04:05.660" LastActivityDate="2019-08-31T08:04:05.660" Title="Ultimaker 3 Extended prints pores in walls" Tags="|print-quality|ultimaker-cura|quality|ultimaker-3|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8667" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8663" CreationDate="2019-04-12T10:51:05.373" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The success metrics are entirely up to you, the user of the printed part. For example, the strength of the part under the load it's desgined for will be critical for an end-use part (such as as hook), but doesn't matter at all for a fit or appearance prototype. Conversely, the dimensional accuracy is very important for a fit model prototyping a complex assembly, but might be unimportant for an appearance prototype or for some kinds of end-use parts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because there's a wide range of uses for printed parts, there's a wide range of possible metrics. Mostly they depend on the original design, the print options chosen (e.g. infill style), the material chosen, and the capabilities of the printer. Here are a few:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Dimensional accuracy (of the part compared to the design)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Dimensional stability (does the part warp or shrink afterwards)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Total time to print + finish&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Material cost of print (build materials and other consumables)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Weight of printed part&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Labour of operating the printer and any post-processing&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Surface appearance/smoothness (different for horizontal, vertical, angled, and curved surfaces)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Surface friction&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Surface hardness (can you scratch it easily)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Colour accuracy (of the part compared to the design, for colour printing processes)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Colour stability (do they fade over time)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Colour resolution (are colour changes sharp or blurred)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rigidity (different in different axes)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Failure load (different in different axes)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Non-adhesion across small gaps (as in a tolerance test)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Porosity (e.g. if printing a container for liquids or gases)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A big cross-cutting metric is repeatability. If you make the same print again the next day and repeat any of these measurements, how different a result do you get?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are also some metrics that are more about the material choice than the way it's printed:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Outgassing&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Flammability&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Toxicity&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13100" LastActivityDate="2019-04-12T10:51:05.373" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8669" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5391" CreationDate="2019-04-12T16:38:32.310" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Please check that the power supply's (SMPS) output voltage is 12&amp;nbsp;V (while loaded). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Note: Be careful while measuring, as there is a hazard of shock.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my case, the voltage was 10&amp;nbsp;V with one supply and 8&amp;nbsp;V with another supply. I bought a new one with 12&amp;nbsp;V and the printer is now running fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My printer Tronoxy i3 (Prusa i3 Mk-II).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope it helps you too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15134" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-04-13T04:51:48.727" LastActivityDate="2019-04-13T04:51:48.727" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8670" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5544" CreationDate="2019-04-12T18:14:17.580" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found a website, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cadmesh.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;CadMesh&lt;/a&gt;, to convert the file for me. So far they are a free platform. I recommend to give it a shot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Doing some research on internet I also found this good tutorial:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://blog.bantamtools.com/convert-stl-to-step&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Bantam Tools Blog - Convert STL to STEP&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But the FreeCAD software seems to have some limitation on handling complex shapes. It may work for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Step 1: Download a Conversion Tool&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Our conversion tool of choice is FreeCAD because it’s free, relatively&#xA;simple to use, and does a good job of converting STL files to usable&#xA;solid models. Download it &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.freecadweb.org/wiki/index.php?title=Install_on_Mac&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Step 2: Import Your STL File&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Open FreeCAD.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Create a new file (File menu &amp;gt; New).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Import your STL file (File menu &amp;gt; Import &amp;gt; select your STL file).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;From the dropdown menu in the top toolbar, choose Mesh design (see screenshot).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1YDxY.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;FreeCAD1_mesh_design&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1YDxY.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;FreeCAD1 mesh design&quot; title=&quot;FreeCAD1_mesh_design&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Credit: OpenSCAD Chess by Tim Edwards)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Step 3: Repair the Mesh&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Open the Evaluate &amp;amp; Repair mesh tool (Meshes menu &amp;gt; Analyze &amp;gt; Evaluate &amp;amp; Repair mesh).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Select the mesh from the dropdown at the top of the Evaluate &amp;amp; Repair pane.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;One by one, go down the list, clicking Analyze and then Repair if the analysis finds any problems.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If clicking the Repair button for &amp;quot;Folds on Surface&amp;quot; makes your mesh look terrible, you can skip that one.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If clicking the Repair button for any other option makes your mesh look terrible, you’re likely out of luck. However, you should&#xA;still try the next steps in case you get lucky.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Uj2cN.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;FreeCAD2 analyze repair&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Uj2cN.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;FreeCAD2 analyze repair&quot; title=&quot;FreeCAD2 analyze repair&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Step 4: Convert Your Mesh to a Shape&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;From the toolbar dropdown menu, choose Part.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Select your mesh in the left pane.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;From the Part menu, choose &amp;quot;Convert to shape.&amp;quot;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Leave the Sewing Tolerance at 0.10 and click OK.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EL53l.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;FreeCAD4&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EL53l.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;FreeCAD4&quot; title=&quot;FreeCAD4&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Step 5: Convert the Shape to a Solid&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the moment of truth! If FreeCAD is able to convert the shape&#xA;to a solid, you’ll be able to save it as a STEP file. If you get a red&#xA;error message in the bottom left corner of the screen, you’re out of&#xA;luck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Select the newly created shape.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;From the Part menu, choose &amp;quot;Convert to solid.&amp;quot;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If it works, you’ll see a new item in the list in the left pane that ends in &amp;quot;(Solid).&amp;quot;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/96d3u.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;FreeCAD5 convert to solid&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/96d3u.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;FreeCAD5 convert to solid&quot; title=&quot;FreeCAD5 convert to solid&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aIKud.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;FreeCAD6 done&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aIKud.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;FreeCAD6 done&quot; title=&quot;FreeCAD6 done&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Step 6: Export Your Solid to a STEP File&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Select your newly created solid file in the left pane.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;From the File menu, choose Export.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;From the Export dialog, choose &amp;quot;STEP with colors (*.step *.stp)&amp;quot;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Save your file.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7m7gb.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;FreeCAD7 export&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7m7gb.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;FreeCAD7 export&quot; title=&quot;FreeCAD7 export&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You're done!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15135" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:29:41.667" LastActivityDate="2019-04-13T14:12:38.833" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8671" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-04-12T18:31:27.767" Score="6" ViewCount="3873" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got several examples like the image below where the perimeter either doesn't bond to, or doesn't reach the infill. I tried adjusting the &lt;code&gt;infill overlap&lt;/code&gt; parameter in Slic3r from its default of 25 % to 30 %, but it doesn't seem to have made a difference. This is on a new Tevo Tornado that's all stock + a Petsfang Bullseye cooler.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/G97AW.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Visible separation on perimeter of the inner box&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/G97AW.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Visible separation on perimeter of the inner box&quot; title=&quot;Visible separation on perimeter of the inner box&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Neither speed variations, nor temp variation seems to impact this issue. I'm beginning to suspect that it's related to some sort of play in the Y-axis, as if you look at the defect in the picture, it's the most pronounced running north/south in the picture, which would be layers along the X-axis (meaning their relative position would be impacted by Y-axis movement instability). I'm replacing the leveling springs with PETG standoffs tonight (I have a BLTouch) and will try again then.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried 25, 30, and 50 % infill overlap as per a comment request, and that (50 %) seems to have improved another issue where the infill on a first layer would often not reach the perimeter shells.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried the following print speeds with all of the following temperatures (nozzle/bed): 190/60 °C, 193/65 °C, 193/70 °C, with 3 perimeters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DL4bK.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Default parameters&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DL4bK.png&quot; alt=&quot;Default parameters&quot; title=&quot;Default parameters&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's default behavior. I've also gone to&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Perimeters - 80 mm/s&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Small perimeters - 20 mm/s&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Infill - 90 mm/s&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Solid infil - 25 mm/s&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Top solid infil - 20 mm/s&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bridges - 70 mm/s&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Gap fill - 25 mm/s&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With no visible change in this outer perimeter behavior (the faster set of numbers is what I print with in general).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14300" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2021-06-30T15:13:55.447" LastActivityDate="2021-06-30T15:49:46.860" Title="Infill not reaching perimeter" Tags="|print-quality|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8672" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8671" CreationDate="2019-04-12T18:57:42.970" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;This has nothing to do with the infill overlap, the image you've added looks as if the issue is related to non-bonding perimeters (it looks as if it is in between the 2&lt;sup&gt;nd&lt;/sup&gt; and the 3&lt;sup&gt;rd&lt;/sup&gt; perimeter), hence infill overlap doesn't apply here. If that is the case look into &lt;a href=&quot;/q/6067&quot;&gt;this question&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've had this same issue, the problem is that if the perimeters do not touch, this is most probably caused by insufficient filament flow which can be a result of a too high of a print speed (or too low print temperature) of the inner perimeters. This is frequently seen when printing PETG. PETG has a limited print speed, the PETG I use (premium brand) has a maximum speed value of 50 mm/s, your values are for some values over that value. That would be fine for PLA, but high for PETG, the question is not clear on the material used for this print (the hotend temperatures hint to PLA, the bed temperatures are rather high though).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it is not related to the material being printed, these gaps are also explained if the positioning of the nozzle is not correct, e.g. caused by loose belts. This is supported by the comment on the first layer:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;where the infill on a first layer would often not reach the perimeter shells&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-06-30T15:49:46.860" LastActivityDate="2021-06-30T15:49:46.860" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8673" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-04-12T19:41:16.177" Score="2" ViewCount="365" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there a way to change the use of an extruder port on a 3D printer motherboard to move stepper motors (on y axis) on a 3D printer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is for a school project, and we have replaced the extruder with a laser for cutting material.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We were tasked with converting a 3D printer into LOM 3D printer, the laser is set using the fan port, however we still need two stepper motors to move material from one side of the printer to the other after each layer of material is cut.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/l40X1.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Diagram&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/l40X1.png&quot; alt=&quot;Diagram&quot; title=&quot;Diagram&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The mother board we are using is &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B07MXX2RV7&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;WitBot MKS Gen L V1.0 Controller Board Integrated mainboard Compatible Ramps1.4/Mega2560 R3 with A4988 Motor Driver for 3D&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15137" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2020-02-09T11:41:04.537" LastActivityDate="2020-02-09T11:41:04.537" Title="New use for extruder port" Tags="|extruder|stepper|motor|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8674" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8666" CreationDate="2019-04-12T19:44:35.777" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;While no expert, I'm wondering if you're going the wrong way with tweaking your parameters. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I'm reading your question correct, you have a fairly large nozzle (it's a 0.8&amp;nbsp;mm?) and then you're using ABS which requires more heat (230&amp;nbsp;°C nozzle temp) than say PLA does (typically 190&amp;nbsp;°C). Along with that you are using a fairly thick print layer of 0.3&amp;nbsp;mm, where I've normally only used a 0.1&amp;nbsp;mm layer height. You add all this stuff up and it seems to me the nozzle temps are probably not keeping up with the amount of filament you are trying to extrude, and due to these things, you're seeing the gaps in the print. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My thinking on this to fix your issue is to do a couple of things. You can slow down your print speed to allow the heating element to keep up. Secondly, use a smaller layer height. Both of these things should help, but will increase print times dramatically. You could also go to a smaller print orifice. Lowering the orifice size to 0.4&amp;nbsp;mm would again, increase print time, but would mean less filament extrusion and the chance for the nozzle temps to keep up with extrusion needs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11242" LastEditorUserId="11242" LastEditDate="2019-04-13T13:19:49.287" LastActivityDate="2019-04-13T13:19:49.287" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8675" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8666" CreationDate="2019-04-13T02:04:03.097" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;First of all, I agree with the other answer, which suggests slowing the print and increasing the temperature (upvoted). I also see some evidence of de-lamination between layers in the photo, which lends weight to that idea.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I want to address this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I assume those pores are dragged by the nozzle when it moves inwards to print the infill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Perhaps. There's also a chance these gaps are the result of the nozzle as you suggest...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;... however, if that's true, it's almost certainly not the nozzle itself. For the nozzle to cause this problem, the z-axis would actually have to descend as the layer tries to adjust upwards. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Instead, I'd look for a clump of material stuck to the nozzle edge, either during a priming phase in the machine beginning g-code or picked up from the first layer where an early part of a brim/raft/skirt may not have completely stuck to the print bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This happens commonly with my printer now that the nozzle has aged some, and I tend to watch the printer carefully while it warms up for a new print so I can remove the priming material with a putty knife before it can cause a problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12562" LastEditorUserId="12562" LastEditDate="2019-04-13T02:09:08.457" LastActivityDate="2019-04-13T02:09:08.457" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8677" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-04-13T11:36:47.460" Score="3" ViewCount="77" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am printing on a CR-10 for the first time with white filament&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;. The problem is it seems that after a certain amount of filament printed one or two layers don't stick to the print which causes a huge gap in the end.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think the pictures speak for themselves:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6Zs9e.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6Zs9e.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Image_1&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mGGGh.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mGGGh.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Image_2&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is what I already tried:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Different print speeds (60&amp;nbsp;mm/s and 45&amp;nbsp;mm/s)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Different nozzles (both 0.4&amp;nbsp;mm)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Print-temperatures of 200&amp;nbsp;°C and 205&amp;nbsp;°C&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Resliced models in case of faulty &lt;code&gt;.gcode&lt;/code&gt; files&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Support densities of 10&amp;nbsp;% to 20&amp;nbsp;%&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Different models&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried this with two different models, two print attempts each. The gap occurs earlier in the larger model and at almost the exact same layer on both attempts, same for the smaller model.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The most frustrating thing about this is that it happens a few hours into the print so I can't just sit next to it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems that at a certain layer the filament doesn't stick to the print anymore which causes those straight parts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I ruled out a faulty z-Rod since the gap occurs at different heights.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am printing White PLA from Janbex with 60&amp;nbsp;°C bed temperature. I slice with Cura 4.0 (the linux version).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; I've been printing for over a year now, it's the first time I use white filament. I don't think that it is entangled filament since the spools from Janbex are always perfectly wound. It did occasionally happen with other filament too though but not this often. I have a theory that it might have something to do with the geometry of the model since there were a few very close hard edges at that height. Maybe the filament didn't have enough time to cool down on those spots. I'm trying to print with lower layer height (0.15 now, 0.2 earlier), maybe that will make a difference...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14345" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2019-04-14T18:24:43.817" LastActivityDate="2019-04-14T18:24:43.817" Title="CR-10 Layers not printing after certain amount of filament printed" Tags="|print-quality|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8680" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8677" CreationDate="2019-04-13T23:19:43.327" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the problem occurs at same height I would focus on the Z axis, in particular the gantry and its rollers.&#xA;Try to remove the Z axis screw and feel if the you can slide the gantry up and down with ease, in particular if it gets harder to slide at roughly the height where the problem occurs. You can use the eccentric nuts to adjust the rollers preload and make it slide smooth.&#xA;Next on my checklist would be the screw: verify there is no issue on the screw at that height, the Ender 3 is renown for having a Z rod issue due to misalignment between the motor and the nut on the gantry.&#xA;While writing another idea came to my mind, but I'm sure already checked that: the filament is not clashing or being clamped somewhere when it reaches that height, right? A filament guide would generally exclude that...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13989" LastActivityDate="2019-04-13T23:19:43.327" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8681" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-04-14T09:39:38.207" Score="2" ViewCount="503" Body="&lt;p&gt;During my last print I noticed this jumpy behavior during heat up (blue is bed, red is hotend):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KlD2K.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Graph of heatbed and hotend temperature over time&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KlD2K.png&quot; alt=&quot;Graph of heatbed and hotend temperature over time&quot; title=&quot;Graph of heatbed and hotend temperature over time&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I am wondering about the jumps. What could cause this? I do not think that it is a defunct sensor (it is in both sensors) and I also don't think it is real. Could this pose some sort of hazard as temperature might not properly be controlled?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I use an Anet A8 printer with Marlin 1.1.9 and Octoprint&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13147" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2019-04-14T09:46:53.427" LastActivityDate="2019-04-15T17:21:21.240" Title="Bed and nozzle temperature jumping" Tags="|anet-a8|heat-management|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8682" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9797" CreationDate="2019-04-14T15:19:04.527" Score="4" ViewCount="363" Body="&lt;p&gt;My first layers started to have these &quot;seams&quot; in them.&#xA;I am printing on the  Anycubic Ultrabase.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3l9WN.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Seams in first layers&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3l9WN.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Seams in first layers&quot; title=&quot;Seams in first layers&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any other layer is fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has anyone else experienced similar problems or an idea of how to debug this issue?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The picture is of PLA (BQ Easy Black) printed at 215 °C on the Ultrabase.&#xA;The the same issue with BQ Easy PLA red, turquoise and white (205 °C), Zaper PETG Brown 230 °C and HobbyKing translucent ABS Red (245 °C).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Changing the nozzle did not change anything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13819" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-01-13T06:38:41.087" LastActivityDate="2020-01-13T06:38:41.087" Title="&quot;Seams&quot; in first layer" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|anycubic-i3-mega|anycubic-ultrabase|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8684" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8681" CreationDate="2019-04-14T18:32:14.597" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It looks like everything is ok with the real temperature, and it is just Octoprint missing some readings, like Oscar said. &#xA;But I think it is unlikely the USB cables fault, the whole print would fail in that case. I think the PI is to busy, maybe due to a Webcam streaming at high rate (try reducing the framerate). Another reason might be if you use a PI Zero W, especially if you transfer data over the Wifi at the same time, since Wifi and USB cause bottlenecks for each other on that board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PS. I'd comment, but don't have privilege yet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14969" LastActivityDate="2019-04-14T18:32:14.597" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8685" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8538" CreationDate="2019-04-14T18:35:21.780" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Answer taken from OP's comment&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;the issue has been resolved (the PINDA probe was too high) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4762" LastActivityDate="2019-04-14T18:35:21.780" CommentCount="1" CommunityOwnedDate="2019-04-14T18:35:21.780" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8686" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7522" CreationDate="2019-04-14T18:37:43.700" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Answer taken from OP's question&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(24.01.2019) UPDATE: I updated Marlin to 1.1.9 and used the configuration from repository. Since I also printed a new print head (for Bowden extruder) I had to rework all offsets. Same time I switched to Simplify3D (cause I need better control for support blocks). Since then the problem disappeared (not surprised). I could not figure out what setting caused my problem. Thank you!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4762" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-04-14T21:43:28.543" LastActivityDate="2019-04-14T21:43:28.543" CommentCount="1" CommunityOwnedDate="2019-04-14T18:37:43.700" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8687" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8673" CreationDate="2019-04-14T20:01:49.313" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are planning to use the printer via GCode entirely, then I don't believe it would be too complicated. For example, Marlin treats the extruder as another axis and uses absolute values for it (if absolute mode is on, of course). Since you want to have two steppers, you would have to connect them in either series or parallel (usually the Z motors are wired in parallel on RAMPS type boards, but many people are going for series since it has some benefits, one of them being that the torque will be much more similar between the two motors). Of course lower the stepper driver current to the minimum before connecting, then adjust it to whatever value you need.&#xA;I don't think it will work too well if it has to keep the roll tight - in that case, you could be better off by using only one stepper and some kind of force to hold it tight... maybe a small DC motor at low currents?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can modify your printer firmware and set your own pin assignments for everything, for example in Marlin you have the pins.h file where every pin from the Mega is mapped to different headers and drivers. I don't know if there is any LOM slicer or firmware available, but you could just use GRBL.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14965" LastActivityDate="2019-04-14T20:01:49.313" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8688" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2019-04-14T20:32:22.933" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Similar to the features of the new Prusa i3 MK3. Only the print bed is slightly smaller with 210x210mm than other 3D printers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Properties&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pressure chamber: 210 x 210 x 205&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Print speed: up to 100 mm/s&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Layer thickness: 0.05 - 0.350 mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Filament / nozzle diameter (standard): 1.75 mm / 0.4 mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Material: ABS, PLA, SmartABS, flexible materials with limitations&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Extruder temperature (max): 260 °C&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pressure bed technology: 4 point manually adjustable, heated up to 110 °C&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;File transfer: USB, SD&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Outside dimensions: approx. 410 x 405 x 450mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Weight: approx. 14.5 kg&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Technology: FFF/FDM (Fused Filament Fabrication)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Other features: Extensive accessories, filament sensor, touch screen&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Sources&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://3druck.com/reviews/review-anycubic-i3-mega-3767035/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Review: Anycubic I3 Mega&lt;/a&gt; (German)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="132" LastEditorUserId="132" LastEditDate="2019-04-14T21:13:44.177" LastActivityDate="2019-04-14T21:13:44.177" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8689" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2019-04-14T20:32:22.933" Score="0" Body="A popular 3D printer from China." OwnerUserId="132" LastEditorUserId="132" LastEditDate="2019-04-14T21:13:50.573" LastActivityDate="2019-04-14T21:13:50.573" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8690" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8692" CreationDate="2019-04-14T20:53:48.570" Score="3" ViewCount="530" Body="&lt;p&gt;I changed the filament, and to adjust filament temperature, I printed a test model and it looked good: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/90rop.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/90rop.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But printing another part did not go so well: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kDVQa.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kDVQa.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vYSJy.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vYSJy.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After the failed print I ran another test: &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Vp0Pk.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Vp0Pk.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Еverything is done with the same settings.&#xA;And I think the temperature and settings are okay.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it possible to have a missed step on the Z axis, and this has caused the crushing of the layers or bad filament quality.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Where does the problem come from?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5608" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-04-14T21:28:46.373" LastActivityDate="2019-04-16T10:39:01.483" Title="Strange problem with quality, what might be the reason for these bubbles?" Tags="|print-quality|change-filament|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8691" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8690" CreationDate="2019-04-15T03:38:59.023" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Looking at the second photograph and the way that the filament switches abruptly from smooth to irregular deposition, I would say that you have a partially clogged nozzle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pre-heat the nozzle and extrude some filament. It should drop straight down from the nozzle. If the filament curls as it comes out of the nozzle, the nozzle is partially clogged. You may be able to clear the clog by doing what is called a &quot;cold pull&quot;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pre-heat the nozzle so that it is possible to extrude filament. Then switch off the heater and allow the temperature to fall below the pre-heat temperature of the filament (140°C for PLA, say). Now disengage the extruder gears and gently withdraw the filament completely from the hot end. On removing the filament completely from the printer, you should find a &quot;bullet&quot; on the end of the filament in the shape of the melt chamber. Hopefully, the dirt that caused the clog will be embedded in the bullet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In order to prevent dirt from entering the nozzle, it is a good idea to install a filament cleaner. This can be as simple as a piece of sponge containing a couple of drops of light machine oil, or you can make something a little more sophisticated. There are plenty of designs that you can download on Thingiverse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3953" LastEditorUserId="3953" LastEditDate="2019-04-15T04:32:48.967" LastActivityDate="2019-04-15T04:32:48.967" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8692" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8690" CreationDate="2019-04-15T08:00:15.967" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It definitely looks like the temperature is too high&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;but it can also mean that &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the speed is too low and/or&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the cooling fan is not driven correctly and/or&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;over extrusion could play a role here&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;this is the scenario with all these issues together&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;too high temperature melts too much filament which is put by too slow movements&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;check the printing when your object changes from well printed to this ugly state&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1211" LastActivityDate="2019-04-15T08:00:15.967" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8694" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8704" CreationDate="2019-04-15T12:57:30.940" Score="3" ViewCount="2167" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to set up an enclosed (custom enclosure) Prusa i3 style printer for ABS, but having a fair amount of difficulty preventing the part corners from curling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/k9YT6.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Example of curling at part corners&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/k9YT6.png&quot; alt=&quot;Example of curling at part corners&quot; title=&quot;Example of curling at part corners&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Detailed specs:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Geetech A10 (generic Prusa clone) w/ PEI heatbed&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Custom enclosure&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Slic3r software&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;ABS filament (obviously!)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;247&amp;nbsp;°C hotend temp&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;115&amp;nbsp;°C heated bed first layer, 110&amp;nbsp;°C for others&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fan on for layer 3 and above&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Verified heatbed temperature with calibrated IR imager.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thus far I have been unable to prevent parts from separating from the heatbed during print, primarily at the corners where stress is concentrated.  I've tried various heatbed temperatures from 90&amp;nbsp;°C to 115&amp;nbsp;°C, lower hotend temperatures (which just made the problem worse and caused complete print failure), cleaning the PEI surface with alcohol, etc. to no avail.  I'm even seeing this to some extent with Benchy, it shows up as a lift to the stern and bow (slight bend parallel to the keel) -- the print is otherwise basically perfect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've attached an image of the more extreme curling -- yes, I should probably be using mouse ears on a part like this, but I see the same thing on parts that shouldn't require mouse ears.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the best way to fix this particular problem?  Temperature adjustments, brims, rafts, something else?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15161" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-12-17T06:23:19.887" LastActivityDate="2019-12-17T08:36:45.407" Title="Best way to fix ABS corner curling on enclosed Prusa style printer with PEI heatbed?" Tags="|prusa-i3|troubleshooting|abs|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8695" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8681" CreationDate="2019-04-15T17:21:21.240" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since the terminal temperatures never exceed the setpoints, there's no apparent potential for disaster.   Whether it's due to missing readings or to some sequencing of power (current) applied to the bed vs. the hotend, it really doesn't matter.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have a similar graph of the temperatures over an hour of printing and you see signifcant anomalies there, that might be of interest. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2191" LastActivityDate="2019-04-15T17:21:21.240" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8696" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8697" CreationDate="2019-04-15T18:03:11.117" Score="2" ViewCount="2001" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an Anet A8 clone printer with a heated aluminum print bed. I'm considering purchasing a glass bed to add on top of the aluminum. When adding a glass bed on top:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How would I go about installing the glass onto the aluminum bed? Is the major concern here just affixing it?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How do you adjust for the added thickness of the bed in the printer? Is this just through a limit switch adjustment or something firmware/software related?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How much do you adjust your heat (if at all)? Does it take a longer warm-up time due to having to heat the glass?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11242" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2019-11-06T14:08:05.363" LastActivityDate="2019-11-06T14:08:05.363" Title="When installing a glass bed, what do you change?" Tags="|heated-bed|anet-a8|glass-bed|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8697" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8696" CreationDate="2019-04-15T18:44:18.797" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The most common way to install a glass bed (assuming it's literally a piece of borosilicate glass) is with binder clips. Glass &lt;em&gt;is&lt;/em&gt; an insulator, so you may need to adjust your bed temps by a few degrees, and it will take somewhat longer to warm up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You shouldn't need any firmware changes, but will need to adjust whatever z homing you do. If you have a limit switch currently, you'll need to move it by the thickness of the glass. If you have an inductive probe, it should still continue to work, but your z-offset will need to be adjusted. If you have BLTouch or a piezo, nothing should need to change there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14300" LastActivityDate="2019-04-15T18:44:18.797" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8698" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8690" CreationDate="2019-04-15T19:35:03.513" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;From third picture - moisture!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is new filament cheap? I guess it was too long on stash and/or bad package.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Look for &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCxQbYGpbdrh-b2ND-AfIybg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Maker's Muse&lt;/a&gt;'s video on Youtube about this topic. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14276" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2019-04-16T10:39:01.483" LastActivityDate="2019-04-16T10:39:01.483" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8699" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8700" CreationDate="2019-04-15T20:11:55.320" Score="8" ViewCount="12342" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had problems printing parts and I figured out that my children have turned the knob of my Prusa i3 MK3 and set the printing speed to 112%.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since I'm not experimenting much yet, I'm not printing at different speeds than the original speed. I wonder whether there's a G-Code command that I could let Slic3r insert at the beginning of each print to ensure the print starts with 100% speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1570" LastActivityDate="2019-04-15T20:48:22.043" Title="G-Code for resetting to 100% speed" Tags="|g-code|slic3r|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8700" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8699" CreationDate="2019-04-15T20:42:44.010" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can put the speed to 100&amp;nbsp;% by G-code command: &lt;code&gt;M220 S100&lt;/code&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;code&gt;M220&lt;/code&gt;command is described &lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#M220:_Set_speed_factor_override_percentage&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Know that speed changes sent to the printer have an effect on the next printed layer, it first finishes the current layer at the speed commanded before starting printing the layer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-04-15T20:48:22.043" LastActivityDate="2019-04-15T20:48:22.043" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8701" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8539" CreationDate="2019-04-15T22:41:37.883" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm sorry for the long time I took to answer, but the ammount of NEW problems I faced since started this question was so big that wanted to write a list of them before answering my own question. I've finally also desisted from the list, as the problems tends towards infinity. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Simple version: printing more than a single item did the trick, as several people proposed here. But then the piece broke when tried to remove it from the hot bed, as somebody else also warned me here. By that time I tried a temp tower, had to recalibrate almost the whole printer, had to also relubricate it, had to learn some tricks about sticking and de-sticking pieces from the bed, tried several different glues, started to fine-tune my slicings, and so on and so on... man, 3D printing is laborious.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I wanted to let this link here for all the fellow newbies out there reading this. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://all3dp.com/1/common-3d-printing-problems-troubleshooting-3d-printer-issues/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://all3dp.com/1/common-3d-printing-problems-troubleshooting-3d-printer-issues/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That was exactly the kind of document I was looking for online as a newcomer to this world, and I'm sure it will be useful for a lot of people.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks everybody.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14932" LastActivityDate="2019-04-15T22:41:37.883" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8702" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-04-16T00:08:43.507" Score="5" ViewCount="87" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 3D model that is essentially a mostly outer cylinder but with some geometries in the inner wall. However, it seems that MakerBot print software is having trouble interpreting places when the outer wall is just a thin face (with no thickness) and makes the model seem transparent there when looking from the inside, even though it looks solid from the outside. I think for this reason, the model is completely filling in the cylinder in those places, which is what I am trying to fix. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any suggestions would be appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ck4eF.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Outside view&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ck4eF.png&quot; alt=&quot;Outside view&quot; title=&quot;Outside view&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RGBcM.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Inside view&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RGBcM.png&quot; alt=&quot;Inside view&quot; title=&quot;Inside view&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15166" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2019-04-16T00:46:49.193" LastActivityDate="2019-04-16T00:46:49.193" Title="How to fix transparent outer face?" Tags="|makerbot|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8703" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8702" CreationDate="2019-04-16T00:35:38.533" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You've not offered the source of the model, nor the software from which it was created, but I suspect that you'll find the &quot;invisible&quot; faces have reversed normals. This is a characteristic of modeling software that believes the outside is the inside and vice versa. If you are comfortable with using another program, you can check/confirm those problematic sections.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm fond of Meshmixer, a multi-platform 3D modeling and editing program. It will display reversed normals with a bit of zebra striping. One can use the Select tool, highlight those faces and use the Select Edit, reverse normals menu entry to repair the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some slicers will automatically repair this type of problem. For a different approach, download and import your model into Slic3r, which will indicate that it has corrected xx errors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastActivityDate="2019-04-16T00:35:38.533" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8704" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8694" CreationDate="2019-04-16T03:29:03.120" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Adding 20mm mouse ears was sufficient to resolve the problem using the original extrusion / heatbed settings.  I did not expect mouse ears to be required on the Benchy model, but given the lack of better advice it seems this may be a poorly documented &quot;feature&quot; of ABS.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Results on the original worst-case test model:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aBOso.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aBOso.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Properly bonded mouse ear&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that the brims will not help if the bed is insufficiently leveled -- the brim has to actually merge with / melt into the base part layer, so the extruder height has to be perfect at the brim to part interface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Example of extruder too far away from bed:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CAoV3.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CAoV3.png&quot; alt=&quot;Failed mouse ear&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15161" LastActivityDate="2019-04-16T03:29:03.120" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8705" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-04-16T19:37:27.397" Score="5" ViewCount="5667" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most of my part is printing very well, but I have problems in the bottom layer and in layers that are the first layers, but not necessarily layer 0.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looking at the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;print quality troubleshooting&lt;/a&gt;, I can't find a problem that fits my needs. Using the terms over there, I would describe it as &quot;gaps in bottom layer&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Photo from part A (RPi case top piece):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0JkO3.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0JkO3.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;rough and sunken&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Photos from part B (RPi case bottom):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a really ugly screwhole (sorry for the blurry picture):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/B0Yyw.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/B0Yyw.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Ugly screwhole&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But in the same part, there's an &lt;strike&gt;almost perfect&lt;/strike&gt; much better screwhole:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zsYWQ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zsYWQ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Perfect screwhole&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the location on the print bed, it's here (both parts):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HoXaU.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HoXaU.png&quot; alt=&quot;Problematic region&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have seen the question &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/2943/first-bottom-layer-has-gaps&quot;&gt;First bottom layer has gaps&lt;/a&gt;, where the OP has already tried a lot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My thoughts so far:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I don't want to generally lower the Z height, since it prints fine over a large area with a really flat and smooth surface.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I'm not sure I should change the temperature settings. I use the i3 MK3 printer and I use Prusa PLA filament with Slic3r Prusa PLA filament settings.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I don't understand many of the extrusion width / extrusion multiplier options of that question.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I thought I might have had a fingerprint on the print plate. I typically avoid that by wearing gloves and cleaning the print bed with alcohol every fifth print or so. However, I didn't clean before any of the two parts. (I cleaned now)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Given the description and the pictures, can you name the problem and suggest the most likely solution?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Printer and filament details:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Prusa i3 MK3&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://shop.prusa3d.com/de/filament/224-perlblaues-pla-filament-1kg.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Prusa PLA filament 1.75 mm, pearl blue&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;0.20 mm SPEED setting&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;20% infill&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;5mm Brim&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;215°C first layer, 210°C other layers&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;60°C bed temperature&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Prusa PLA default filament settings&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I use a Prusa spring steel print bed. No special adhesion, tape or anything. Closest I could find in the shop is &lt;a href=&quot;https://shop.prusa3d.com/en/mk3-and-mk3s-printer-parts/216-spring-steel-sheet-smooth-pei.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;smooth PEI&lt;/a&gt;, but mine looks more golden.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1570" LastEditorUserId="1570" LastEditDate="2019-04-16T22:17:09.137" LastActivityDate="2019-10-16T23:00:41.470" Title="Sunken and rough bottom layer" Tags="|print-quality|slic3r|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8706" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8708" CreationDate="2019-04-16T19:40:00.770" Score="1" ViewCount="1183" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was asked to print something with ESD PLA and the first layer, on a raft, is coming out like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/t4QTU.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Badly printed ESD PLA first layer on raft&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/t4QTU.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Badly printed ESD PLA first layer on raft&quot; title=&quot;Badly printed ESD PLA first layer on raft&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Nozzle temperature was 220&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C and I'm using the default Cura draft profile.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can you provide any tips on how to get a good print with this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15177" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2019-04-20T20:09:39.853" LastActivityDate="2019-04-20T20:09:39.853" Title="Ender 3 first layer of ESD PLA printing on raft fails" Tags="|print-quality|pla|rafts|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8707" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8705" CreationDate="2019-04-16T19:49:28.867" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know you said you don't want to change the Z height, but it does look like you're printing a bit too far from the plate. I would recommend adjusting your Z-offset if you can, or adjusting the limit switch (or whatever your Z-homing mechanism is)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14300" LastEditorUserId="14300" LastEditDate="2019-04-16T19:54:14.157" LastActivityDate="2019-04-16T19:54:14.157" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8708" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8706" CreationDate="2019-04-16T20:05:32.490" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The gap between the raft and the first layer is too large (you need to switch to expert mode in Ultimaker Cura to see the values of the option before you can change them) and the hotend is too hot (normal PLA generally prints at 190&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C, ESD PLA prints at higher temperatures; you could aim for 210&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C as a start), This makes it difficult to precisely deposition the first layer on the raft as the nozzle drags the hot filament causing inaccurate first layer deposition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Furthermore, PLA generally doesn't require a raft to print the part. The Creality Ender 3 has a rough bed (like a BuildTak surface), you could print directly onto the bed surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.3dxtech.com/3dxstat-esd-pla-3d-printing-filament/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Source&lt;/a&gt; states:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Extruder Temp:  Typically 210-220°C.  ESD PLA is a filled product and&#xA;  has a higher melt viscosity vs. unfilled PLA.  Therefore, it is&#xA;  sometimes necessary to print at higher temperatures than your standard&#xA;  PLA to allow the resin to flow properly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This implies that a hotend of 220&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C mot not be hot enough, in that case the filament is too cold and viscous and gets dragged because the gap is too large.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-04-16T21:29:13.957" LastActivityDate="2019-04-16T21:29:13.957" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8709" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-04-16T21:12:54.427" Score="3" ViewCount="3994" Body="&lt;p&gt;I’m using a RepRap printer, PLA (Hatchbox 1.75&amp;nbsp;mm), SketchUp, and Slic3r. The heated bed is covered with a blue polyester sticker.  When I print small holes (1 to 1.5 mm radius), slicer software considers the holes outside edges for the first layer and prints them before the internal first layer. The problem is, unlike the actual outer edges, the holes have no brim and the small first layer circles stick to the extruder rather than the bed. The rest of the first layer print sticks and the print eventually recovers with slight defects depending on where the lifted circles end up. If I could print the first layer circles after the surrounding first layer was printed, this wouldn’t be an issue.  I’ve tried different bed and extrusion temperatures.  All four holes in different locations do the same.  First layer is 0.3 mm thick.  Second layer is 0.2 mm thick.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15075" LastEditorUserId="15075" LastEditDate="2019-05-23T01:02:23.813" LastActivityDate="2019-10-21T21:01:10.173" Title="How do I get circles on small interior holes to adhere to the bed?" Tags="|pla|slic3r|adhesion|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8710" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8709" CreationDate="2019-04-16T21:21:41.270" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;are you using hairspray or tape to help with bed adhesion? If not that might help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also try printing the first layer slower or try adjusting the bed level offset so you are squishing the first layer down a bit more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15179" LastActivityDate="2019-04-16T21:21:41.270" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8712" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8718" CreationDate="2019-04-17T00:04:58.017" Score="7" ViewCount="5033" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;https://help.prusa3d.com/article/6Gtws6Yqjg-pei-print-surface-preparation&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Prusa3d knowledge base&lt;/a&gt; mentions that acetone will &quot;rejuvenate&quot; PEI in addition to cleaning oil and grease from the surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;About once a week, or when &lt;strong&gt;prints stop sticking&lt;/strong&gt;, use &lt;strong&gt;ACETONE&lt;/strong&gt; to clean the bed. It removes grease better than IPA or Windex. It also &lt;strong&gt;rejuvenates&lt;/strong&gt; the print surface. However, if you use acetone every day, PEI will become brittle and start cracking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From a chemical or physical perspective, how does acetone affect the PEI surface?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6851" LastEditorUserId="6851" LastEditDate="2019-04-20T18:24:02.690" LastActivityDate="2019-04-20T18:24:02.690" Title="How does acetone &quot;rejuvenate&quot; PEI?" Tags="|print-quality|acetone|pei|chemistry|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8713" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8734" CreationDate="2019-04-17T10:44:42.763" Score="1" ViewCount="91" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm using the default Ultimaker Cura draft profile but with the nozzle temp at 220&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C because this is a special ESD filament.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All was going well after some troubleshooting thanks to some users on 3DPrinting.SE but this happened over night:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What would cause an entire layer to lift off the main body, continue to print and then turn to spaghetti?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The red circled part was supposed to be part of the blue outline.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lcWXV.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lcWXV.png&quot; alt=&quot;failed print detail&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15177" LastEditorUserId="15177" LastEditDate="2019-04-17T12:22:23.630" LastActivityDate="2019-04-19T15:13:42.580" Title="Layer lifted and separated from ESD PLA" Tags="|pla|print-material|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8714" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8712" CreationDate="2019-04-17T17:04:42.680" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Acetone is smelly nasty stuff.  Here's a sample recommendation for PEI maintenance from one of a few (million?) 3d printing help sites. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Use isopropyl alcohol, methyl alcohol, soap, Heptane, Hexane, or&#xA;  Naphtha. Avoid ketones (such as MEK) or strong bases (such as sodium&#xA;  hydroxide).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2191" LastActivityDate="2019-04-17T17:04:42.680" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8715" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9882" CreationDate="2019-04-17T19:00:44.430" Score="8" ViewCount="369" Body="&lt;p&gt;I work in a teaching hospital and we have a research project we're interested in pursuing.  We'd like to 3D Print tubes we'd implant into rats to help with nerve regeneration.  We're interested in the shape of the tubes right now, more so than what material it is or whether it's biocompatible etc..   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So this question isn't necessarily about what type of plastic or whatever we should print in.  My question is more so:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;We'd like to print a tube that's 1&amp;nbsp;mm in diameter, about 1&amp;nbsp;cm&#xA;  long and has as many micro &quot;tubes&quot; crammed through it as possible,&#xA;  something like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ry5X1.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Tube containing micro tubes&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ry5X1.png&quot; alt=&quot;Tube containing micro tubes&quot; title=&quot;Tube containing micro tubes&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I currently have a Stratasys j750 in my lab, a UPrint Se and a Prusa i3 Mk3s.  They all work well but for the detail I'm looking for, come up a bit short.  They have advertised accuracies of 14 microns (well, the j750) but thats just in the z direction, x and y are more like 200.  If I went to get PRECISE, what technology should I look into?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15186" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2019-04-18T17:14:00.510" LastActivityDate="2019-11-16T23:35:50.580" Title="Ultra high precision and accuracy printing" Tags="|print-quality|resolution|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8716" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8715" CreationDate="2019-04-17T20:28:22.057" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is an interesting question. A good thing to note when we start talking about SLA and other jewelry grade 3d printing, that you will have to factor in the materials toxicity when we start talking about medical applications. You can also look into DLP 3d printers but they will not have as good quality. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What can help you right now is these SLA printers I see that &lt;a href=&quot;https://formlabs.com/3d-printers/form-3/tech-specs/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;form 3&lt;/a&gt; has 25 microns, with a laser dot of 85. Well within your tolerances. Just make sure to get dental grade or medical grade resin. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that if there are bends, then you will have issues with SLA printing, depending how steep the angles are.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are other technologies, such as metal 3d printing or &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Selective_laser_sintering&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;SLS printing&lt;/a&gt;, that will likely be &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.allthat3d.com/metal-3d-printer/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;out of your price range&lt;/a&gt; such as the HP Metal Jet that can do 21 -xy by 50 -z microns. Or binder based 3d printing which will have the best internal geometry, as powder will act as support, and is easily removed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are many specifically in the bio printing area that might be what you are looking for as well, this is more an alternative. You can look into what the researchers at Penn has been doing, where they have been using &lt;a href=&quot;https://penntoday.upenn.edu/news/penn-researchers-improve-living-tissues-3d-printed-vascular-networks-made-sugar&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Sugar to create vascular networks&lt;/a&gt;. As far as I know they do not sell it as a product at this time. Here is more information about &lt;a href=&quot;https://medium.com/wolfram-events/3d-printed-blood-vessels-the-tech-just-became-scalable-696252e2572c&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;scaling vascular networks&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See &lt;a href=&quot;https://all3dp.com/1/types-of-3d-printers-3d-printing-technology/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; for more information about other printing technologies&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2146" LastActivityDate="2019-04-17T20:28:22.057" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8717" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-04-18T01:51:39.197" Score="3" ViewCount="1381" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently upgraded to &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.creality3donline.com/creality-polypropylene-build-plate-for-ender-3-ender-5-cr20_p0124.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;a Polypropylene&lt;/a&gt; print bed, but I haven't actually been able to complete a print. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Adhesion seems incredibly inconsistent, even on the same spot. Sometimes it goes down great, and sometimes it just curls up and clumps on the nozzle. I even cranked the temp up to 220&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C for the PLA and 70&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C for the bed in an effort to get it to stick for an initial layer, and it still isn't sticking. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any tips? I've been cleaning with rubbing alcohol, but I don't know if there's any trick. Clean when hot? Cold? Let sit after cleaning before using? Is it just a matter of incredibly precise bed leveling?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15189" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2019-04-19T13:35:19.990" LastActivityDate="2022-01-03T19:05:25.553" Title="Polypropylene Bed Adhesion" Tags="|adhesion|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8718" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8712" CreationDate="2019-04-18T04:36:43.823" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Rejuvenate is probably a bit of an exaggerated term. The number one adhesion suppressor is grease. The stuff that comes off of the fingers used to handle the sheet. Even if you are careful and only handle the sides, the grease will be carried to the center of the plate next time its cleaned with less aggressive solvents.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Isopropyl alchohol does break down grease but not to the extent that acetone does. Acetone also attacks plastic particles that accumulate on the print surface over time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PEI is resistant to a wide array of chemicals[1] including acetone but it can become brittle if exposed to it too much especially when hot so acetone is not recommended for daily cleaning. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[1] &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.emcoplastics.com/assets/pdf/ultem/ULTEM%20Product%20Brochure%20GE.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Ultem Product Broshure&lt;/a&gt; table 4-3&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14319" LastEditorUserId="14319" LastEditDate="2019-04-18T04:55:10.373" LastActivityDate="2019-04-18T04:55:10.373" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8719" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8733" CreationDate="2019-04-18T05:51:05.557" Score="3" ViewCount="412" Body="&lt;p&gt;This question concerns an Anet A8 with customized Marlin Firmware 1.1.9.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I need to generate an additional digital output to signal move complete to trigger some data acquisition process. The extruder is not connected and was planning to use those outputs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which section handles G-code processing and is there an already available option to get the job done?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically, I'm trying to use the Anet A8 as a computer-controlled positioning system. It involves some other elements which need to be triggered in a stationary state. The requirement is: &lt;code&gt;G0 X10 Y10&lt;/code&gt; after this is complete: set a pin high and low after a 10&amp;nbsp;ms delay. this after every move. Additionally if I could add my own G-code to preserve the original operation would be ideal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15191" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-04-19T10:34:34.443" LastActivityDate="2019-04-19T10:34:34.443" Title="Marlin customization; additional output after G0/G1 move" Tags="|marlin|anet-a8|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8720" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8717" CreationDate="2019-04-18T09:28:47.297" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are using PLA, 200 for the extruder sticks the best for me.  The other issue with adhesion is the greater the difference between the extruder temperature and the bed the poorer adhesion. There are other things can help with this.  Using a higher bed temperature for the first layer can help.  A slower extrusion speed allows the extrusion to cool more before getting as long of a length to for the contraction force; thus improving adhesion.    &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15075" LastActivityDate="2019-04-18T09:28:47.297" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8721" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8723" CreationDate="2019-04-18T10:42:32.927" Score="5" ViewCount="4310" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've bought a new &quot;MKS GEN_L V1.0&quot; and I'm trying to configure it with Marlin 1.1.X. I changed motherboard in &lt;code&gt;configuration.h&lt;/code&gt; from previous:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;code&gt;#define BOARD_RAMPS_13_EFB   33 //RAMPS 1.3 (Power outputs:Hotend,Fan,Bed)&lt;/code&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;to &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;code&gt;#define BOARD_MKS_GEN_L  53 //MKS GEN L&lt;/code&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm getting this error:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;pins.h:268: error: #error &quot;**Unknown MOTHERBOARD value set in Configuration.h**&quot;&#xA;       #error &quot;Unknown MOTHERBOARD value set in Configuration.h&quot;&#xA;        ^&#xA;    In file included from sketch\MarlinConfig.h:42:0,&#xA;                     from sketch\G26_Mesh_Validation_Tool.cpp:27:&#xA;&#xA;SanityCheck.h:58: error: #error &quot;MOTHERBOARD is required. Please update your configuration.&quot;&#xA;       #error &quot;MOTHERBOARD is required. Please update your configuration.&quot;&#xA;        ^&#xA;    SanityCheck.h:786: error: #error &quot;**Z_MIN_PROBE_USES_Z_MIN_ENDSTOP_PIN requires the Z_MIN_PIN to be defined.**&quot;&#xA;           #error &quot;Z_MIN_PROBE_USES_Z_MIN_ENDSTOP_PIN requires the Z_MIN_PIN to be defined.&quot;&#xA;&#xA;        ^&#xA;    SanityCheck.h:942: error: #error &quot;**LCD_BED_LEVELING requires an LCD controller.**&quot;&#xA;         #error &quot;LCD_BED_LEVELING requires an LCD controller.&quot;&#xA;          ^&#xA;&#xA;SanityCheck.h:1084: error: #error &quot;**HEATER_0_PIN not defined for this board.**&quot;&#xA;       #error &quot;HEATER_0_PIN not defined for this board.&quot;&#xA;        ^&#xA;    exit status 1&#xA;#error &quot;Unknown MOTHERBOARD value set in Configuration.h&quot;&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/84l1J.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;MKS_GEN_L V1.0&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/84l1J.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;MKS_GEN_L V1.0&quot; title=&quot;MKS_GEN_L V1.0&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13700" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2019-06-02T18:09:23.160" LastActivityDate="2019-06-02T18:09:23.160" Title="Configuring of MKS_GEN_L V1.0" Tags="|marlin|arduino-mega-2650|ramps|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8723" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8721" CreationDate="2019-04-18T12:33:07.830" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;The motherboard definition in &lt;code&gt;configuration.h&lt;/code&gt; should be written like:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#define MOTHERBOARD BOARD_MKS_GEN_L&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;actually the word &lt;code&gt;MOTHERBOARD&lt;/code&gt; was missing and there is no need to write  &lt;code&gt;53 //MKS GEN L&lt;/code&gt; at the end.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The number definition is declared in &lt;code&gt;boards.h&lt;/code&gt; - you just confused the two files, indeed you should not forget to define the motherboard constant itself. Do note that this is basically a RAMPS board, see &lt;code&gt;pins_MKS_GEN_L.h&lt;/code&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13700" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2019-04-21T06:34:58.913" LastActivityDate="2019-04-21T06:34:58.913" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8724" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8717" CreationDate="2019-04-18T13:48:54.280" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;When you updated the print bed, you may have affected either the manual or auto calibration of the bed height and bed leveling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First layer adhesion is depends critically on an accurate first layer thickness, which depends on the bed height calibration.  Adding or, perhaps more critically, removing any bed surface thickness could cause a problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With many forms of auto bed calibration, a sensor detects a steel or metallic reference under the surface.  The thickness from that reference to the surface of the bed is not automatically detected or compensated.  Changing the bed surface, even renewing the surface with another sheet of the same material, may alter the bed thickness enough to affect the adhesion fo the first layer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the bed is properly adjusted, the problem may be the surface of the polypropylene.  I see that some instructions for cleaning polypropylene build surfaces suggest isopropyl alcohol and/or a mild soap solution.  I find that with a PEI build plate, it is sometimes necessary to clean the surface with acetone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Acetone is superior at removing oils and films from the surface and will do better than multiple isopropanol cleanings.  I checked a table of chemical compatibility, and polypropylene is highly compatible with acetone, so a thorough cleaning will not degrade it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2082" LastEditorUserId="2082" LastEditDate="2019-04-18T15:17:09.760" LastActivityDate="2019-04-18T15:17:09.760" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8725" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8715" CreationDate="2019-04-18T16:26:59.890" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The typical low-end consumer printers that are so common now in the $100-800 range (yes, I've seen small ones sell that cheap) cannot achieve this, even with special nozzles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But your machine is a bit nicer than that. Looking &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.stratasys.com/3d-printers/j700-dental&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;online at the manufacturer's page for the machine&lt;/a&gt;, we find these specifications:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&#xA;LAYER THICKNESS&#xA;55 microns&#xA;&#xA;BUILD RESOLUTION&#xA;100 +/- micron accuracy&#xA;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's not gonna cut it. 100 microns is .1mm. +/- 100 microns means it can error that much in either direction from where things should be. To illustrate why this is too much, I'll use the image of the tube in the question, with the 1mm diameter as a scale, and layer the 100micron error potential as a grid over the image:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UqQOq.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UqQOq.png&quot; alt=&quot;Margin of error&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This grid doesn't show the size of the filament: just margin for error. It's getting close to what we need, but it's not there yet. To reliably create your tubes, you want the error to no more than 1/4 the diameter of a tube itself. Based on the image, the tube size is about 180 microns, so you want to look for something with an error in the range of +/-45 microns. _Maybe you could do this with a tube &amp;mdash; more of a rounded rectangle &amp;mdash; lying on it's side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12562" LastActivityDate="2019-04-18T16:26:59.890" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8726" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8715" CreationDate="2019-04-18T16:45:05.793" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;FDM/FF printers can#t achieve those resolutions due to several constraints. The biggest problems are wall thickness and resolution:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The print needs to be made from walls that are at least one nozzle wide. Commonly available nozzles go down to the 0.15 to 0.2 mm area, so the thinnest wall has to be at least this wide or be ignored.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The resolution is probably an even bigger problem: common consumer grade and industrial machines can get dialed in to have errors down to the 0.1 mm. Which would be, with the aforementioned smallest nozzles, up to half a wall width shift! Shifting the print by that would destroy the functionality of the print surely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;But, is there a solution?!&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only solution that comes to my mind is using a resin based printer like SLA or DLP. &lt;a href=&quot;https://all3dp.com/3d-printer-resolution/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;SLA printers&lt;/a&gt; can get down to 0.025 mm layer height, usually demand a minimum of 0.14 mm wall thickness, but newer machines can cut that almost by two.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The error on the SLA Form 2 machines is, compared to its minimum wall width, pretty much nonexistent for features of about 10% larger than its spot size (0.144 mm), so for &lt;a href=&quot;https://formlabs.com/blog/3d-printer-resolution-meaning/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;0.15 mm and up&lt;/a&gt; it prints pretty much spot on. Extrapolating this means that you'll need a SLS machine such as the &lt;a href=&quot;https://formlabs.com/3d-printers/form-3/tech-specs/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Form 3&lt;/a&gt;, for minimum reliable wall lines of roundabout 0.09 mm. However, one wall thickness is usually bad, but it might achieve walls of 2 perimeters, coming down to about 0.16 mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:29:41.667" LastActivityDate="2019-04-18T16:51:51.330" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8727" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8252" CreationDate="2019-04-18T16:48:23.820" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you can remove the hot-end it is easier.  If not, carefully use hot air to soften (not melt) the PLA so you can more easily pull away chunks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the hot-end is removed from the other plastic parts, you can get more aggressive with hot air.  BUT, be careful of the thermistor and heater wires.  They are fragile, and can easily be broken or pulled out of their devices.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Heat and patience is the key.  If you do break a heater or thermister, they are pretty easy to replace.  Depending on the hot-end, the heater and/or the thermister may be locked in place by a set screw.  That set-screw is probably locked in place by plastic, so use the hot-air gun to melt that plastic and allow you to back out the set-screw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2082" LastActivityDate="2019-04-18T16:48:23.820" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8728" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4330" CreationDate="2019-04-18T19:17:02.887" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not precisely cheap, but if you look on aliExpress for &lt;em&gt;AM8 3D Printer Extrusion Metal Frame&lt;/em&gt; you will find kits build precisely for moving Anet A8 to aluminium frame&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10016" LastActivityDate="2019-04-18T19:17:02.887" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8729" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8756" CreationDate="2019-04-18T21:02:41.060" Score="2" ViewCount="1138" Body="&lt;p&gt;I got a Tronxy X5S-400, I assembled it and when I power it on, I see on the screen one of the below images and gets stuck there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is the firmware broken? If yes, where can I get a &lt;code&gt;configuration.h&lt;/code&gt; file?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I verified that the two buses between the screen and the mainboard are not loose or incorrectly connected.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ilwaq.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Marlin splash screen&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ilwaq.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Marlin splash screen&quot; title=&quot;Marlin splash screen&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IIkog.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Screen corruption&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IIkog.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Screen corruption&quot; title=&quot;Screen corruption&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The board is a MKS Melzi v2.0 clone&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Hhtaw.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Controller&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Hhtaw.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Controller&quot; title=&quot;Controller&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15198" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2019-04-19T10:01:51.693" LastActivityDate="2019-04-22T19:38:36.610" Title="Tronxy X5S-400 Marlin stuck at splash-screen" Tags="|marlin|firmware|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8730" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8729" CreationDate="2019-04-18T21:35:07.527" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the controller is one of Tronxy's new Chitu boards, you will not have the option of recompiling the firmware, since they are locked down. Apart from checking that the PSU is delivering the correct voltage, your only option may be to request a new main board from the vendor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3953" LastActivityDate="2019-04-18T21:35:07.527" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8731" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-04-18T23:55:04.333" Score="3" ViewCount="1934" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am trying to print a belt but when I preview it, the model doesn't fully render&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/s9PtZ.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Screenshot of half rendered preview&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/s9PtZ.png&quot; alt=&quot;Screenshot of half rendered preview&quot; title=&quot;Screenshot of half rendered preview&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It isn't rendering the full model correctly. The model is rendering halfway but isn't fully which is why you can still see the infill when the slider is at max which isn't normal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is what it &lt;em&gt;should&lt;/em&gt; look like:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eG3Lv.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Screenshot of fully rendered preview&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eG3Lv.png&quot; alt=&quot;Screenshot of fully rendered preview&quot; title=&quot;Screenshot of fully rendered preview&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a 0.4 nozzle and those with a 0.6 have been able to print this. What is going on?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15200" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2019-04-20T07:20:53.567" LastActivityDate="2019-05-23T17:00:35.413" Title="Simplify3D with error in preview?" Tags="|g-code|simplify3d|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8732" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-04-19T00:43:37.290" Score="1" ViewCount="872" Body="&lt;p&gt;After one successful preview of compile, the upload returns error &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;rx_buffer not defined in this scope. &#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do I fix this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15201" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2019-04-19T05:21:48.797" LastActivityDate="2019-05-19T22:01:20.287" Title="Marlin error Rx_buffer not declared in scope" Tags="|marlin|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8733" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8719" CreationDate="2019-04-19T07:25:33.503" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Which section handles G-code processing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In Marlin Firmware, G-code is processed by procedure &lt;code&gt;void process_parsed_command()&lt;/code&gt; in file &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/blob/bugfix-1.1.x/Marlin/Marlin_main.cpp&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;code&gt;Marlin_main.cpp&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I need to generate an additional digital output&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A G-code that is able to set a port value is &lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#M42:_Switch_I.2FO_pin&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;code&gt;M42&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could write a procedure that schedules  certain port after a &lt;code&gt;G0&lt;/code&gt; or &lt;code&gt;G1&lt;/code&gt; move, recompile and upload the firmware.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2019-04-19T07:25:33.503" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8734" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8713" CreationDate="2019-04-19T15:13:42.580" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The spool kept getting caught on itself and tightening. I unrolled some of it and rewound it and the print came out perfect. @anttix was almost correct with the clog theory.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RKyY5.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RKyY5.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15177" LastActivityDate="2019-04-19T15:13:42.580" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8735" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8738" CreationDate="2019-04-19T18:01:26.497" Score="3" ViewCount="314" Body="&lt;p&gt;Last week, my X-axis stepper motor died. It was a 42SHD0217-24B model. I ordered the same online, but the vendor made a &quot;mistake&quot; and sent me the 17HS3401S model.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know these motors use a different voltage, so I adjusted the screw on the stepper driver and managed to get a smooth rotation with the new model. I know that these 2 motors have a rotation of 1.8° per step.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My questions are the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Since they have the same rotation angle per step, I shouldn't have to calibrate the new model, right? (I'll use the original wheel)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Did the vendor send me a motor with inferior performances?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Will my performances degrade if I use the new motor? (Lecture on motors appreciated). By that I mean: will my top moving speed be affected? Will the motor miss more steps at high speed?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14188" LastActivityDate="2019-04-20T21:17:31.450" Title="Replace X axis motor with different model" Tags="|stepper|motor|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8737" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8732" CreationDate="2019-04-19T21:11:19.753" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The line defining &lt;code&gt;SERIAL_PORT&lt;/code&gt; in &lt;code&gt;MarlinSerial.h&lt;/code&gt; should read:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#define SERIAL_PORT 0&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To [mis-]quote &lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?415,830189,830193#msg-830193&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this answer&lt;/a&gt; from RepRap:&lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?415,830189&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;'rx_buffer' was not declared in this scope&lt;/a&gt; (the emphasis is mine):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#define SERIAL_PORT 4&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;This is the serial port on the controller, not the serial port on your&#xA;  computer. 0 through 3 are valid options on a controller with a atmel&#xA;  2560. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Unless you are doing something like serial over bluetooth or&#xA;  deliberately not using the USB port &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;you should not change this from 0&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The same error is reported on the Arduino forums, &lt;a href=&quot;https://forum.arduino.cc/index.php?topic=561571.0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;'rx_buffer' was not declared in this scope&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Have redone over 5 times and always getting &quot; 'rx_buffer' was not&#xA;  declared in this scope &quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Now I tried Factory marlin and same &quot;&#xA;  'rx_buffer' was not declared in this scope &quot; . Dont know what to do - I'm&#xA;  so lost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#define SERIAL_PORT 4     //before was 0&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Nothing else&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4762" LastActivityDate="2019-04-19T21:11:19.753" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8738" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8735" CreationDate="2019-04-19T21:56:47.487" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Since they have the same rotation angle per step, I shouldn't have to calibrate the new model, right? (I'll use the original wheel)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, you do not have to change anything, other than the Vref of the stepper driver.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Did the vendor send me a motor with inferior performances?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, the one you received has a lower height, so smaller coils and smaller permanent magnets; basically lower torque.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Will my performances degrade if I use the new motor?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That depends on the loading of the carriage of the X-axis, it could if it is heavy; you now have less torque available to move the carriage. But, this type is frequently found in 3D printer kits and should work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-04-20T21:17:31.450" LastActivityDate="2019-04-20T21:17:31.450" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8739" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8731" CreationDate="2019-04-20T07:34:12.887" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;First I thought that the model was improperly modeled due inverted faces or any missing line to close that faces but, I rendered the same STL to be printed 0.4 nozzle with height 0.2mm and looks pretty well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0BtmI.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0BtmI.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then I suspected that you were trying to print with 0.4 nozzle at 0.6 layers, which this is totally wrong but, I decided to set the 3D simplify and do the test. The program just show a warning about first layer height adhesion, the click OK and the part is rendered correctly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hiLRC.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hiLRC.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However the recommended settings for a 0.4 nozzle should be less than 80% diameter = 0.32mm as maximum to get a proper bonding. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, I think that you need to download the part and render it again. The time to process this render under XP with an small PC last for 5 minutes. So on bigger PC's will be faster.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is the link where I downloaded the &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3270948&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;belt Komplett 805&lt;/a&gt;&quot; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4454" LastActivityDate="2019-04-20T07:34:12.887" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8741" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8743" CreationDate="2019-04-20T14:52:14.167" Score="2" ViewCount="2240" Body="&lt;p&gt;I acquired an Anycubic Chiron yesterday. I went through the leveling procedure and I think the level test print came out okay so I printed a 20&amp;nbsp;mm calibration cube and a benchy. Both of these came out with a sort of spongy consistency.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have no idea what could be causing this so some advice would be appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm using Ultimaker Cura 4.0.0 and printing in PLA.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/s3Gs0.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Spongy Print&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/s3Gs0.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Spongy Print&quot; title=&quot;Spongy Print&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15215" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-01-13T06:37:42.203" LastActivityDate="2020-01-13T06:37:42.203" Title="Test print coming out spongy" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|troubleshooting|anycubic-chiron|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8742" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8741" CreationDate="2019-04-20T15:28:52.870" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would lay odds on it being your filament is moisture saturated. You don't state what type of filament you're using, but to my understanding this is what happens when it is saturated. The water evaporates as it goes through the nozzle, which causes the filament to puff up, which leaves voids in your print. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The print itself looks like it came out rather well. I mean, the edges of the print are solid and everything is clearly defined. This would state to me the slicer and the printer itself are doing their jobs well. You didn't measure it (or leave any hint you did), so I'll assume the overall dimensions are good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Try a different filament and see if you get better results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11242" LastActivityDate="2019-04-20T15:28:52.870" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8743" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8741" CreationDate="2019-04-20T15:30:44.390" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;It turned out I had the wrong filament size set in Ultimaker Cura. Fixing this resolved the issue. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3KFlw.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3KFlw.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;under extruded calibration cube&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15215" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-04-20T21:34:48.927" LastActivityDate="2019-04-20T21:34:48.927" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8745" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4925" CreationDate="2019-04-20T22:46:50.907" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Firstly, the X-axis &lt;em&gt;should not&lt;/em&gt; be attached to the Y-axis.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Secondly, with respect to the Z-axis not being moved by the X-axis, it sounds like the X-axis stepper either:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;is dead, or;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;does not have sufficient power to move.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would suggest removing the Z-axis from the X-axis CD carriage, in order to reduce the mass and therefore the power required to move it, and test the X-axis in isolation. If it moves left and right correctly, then it is not dead (obviously). If it does not move, then try adjusting (increasing) the current to the stepper motor, by adjusting the EasyDriver (assuming that you are using an EasyDriver stepper motor controller):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/y2XhY.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;EasyDriver current adjust&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/y2XhY.png&quot; alt=&quot;EasyDriver current adjust&quot; title=&quot;EasyDriver current adjust&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it still does not move, then replace the stepper (or the whole X-axis CD-ROM drive, which is probably easier).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then replace the Z-axis and test the X-axis movement again. If it does not move then the stepper does not have sufficient power, or strength, to move the mass of the Z-axis and, again, will probably require increasing the current to it, by adjusting the EasyDriver (as above):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If that does not help, then it will probably need need replacing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If it does move, then you've fixed it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Addendum&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having re-read your question, you state that the X-axis stepper motor works fine. So, it could be that the mechanism to which the stepper motor is attached is broken (teeth, gears, etc.) and not moving the CD carriage correctly. Again, remove the Z-axis and check the mechanics of the X-axis.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If they are damaged, then you will probably need to replace the CD-ROM drive that was used for the X-axis.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4762" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:29:41.667" LastActivityDate="2019-04-20T23:07:15.683" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8746" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-04-21T01:00:00.233" Score="0" ViewCount="77" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am about to buy a 3D handheld scanner for a project (I'm an artist interested in rendering 3D models of my work). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are the drawbacks of using lower precision relatively, inexpensive scanners? Are there concerns beyond precision?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For reference, I will need to capture 1 to 5&amp;nbsp;mm detail.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: Example scanners I am looking at are found &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B06W9LMJKX&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; (cheaper) and &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B07PQF96QB&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; (expensive) both are giving resolution in mm&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15219" LastEditorUserId="15219" LastEditDate="2019-04-21T23:58:46.007" LastActivityDate="2019-04-21T23:58:46.007" Title="Why use more expensive 3D scanners over lower precision scanners?" Tags="|scanning|resolution|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8747" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-04-21T07:58:34.010" Score="1" ViewCount="3408" Body="&lt;p&gt;I get very poor quality prints from my Ender 3: The prints are weak, brittle , stringy and contain gaps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please help me sort this as I'm new to 3D printing and have no idea what the problem might be!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The prints look like this:&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qTQWt.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;poor quality superman statue&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15220" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-04-21T13:24:26.187" LastActivityDate="2019-04-24T08:16:01.513" Title="How to improve very poor quality prints on my Ender 3" Tags="|print-quality|troubleshooting|creality-ender-3|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8748" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-04-21T08:16:20.770" Score="2" ViewCount="333" Body="&lt;p&gt;Following the question I asked here: &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/8735/replace-x-axis-motor-with-different-model/8738?noredirect=1#comment14916_8738&quot;&gt;Replace X axis motor with different model&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a problem with my new motor. My X-axis is now moved by a 17HS3401S motor, instead of a 42SHD0217-24B motor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On small segments, like when I need to print an arc with a lot of small straight lines, my printhead &quot;vibrates&quot; instead of having a smooth movement. It seems it stops for a very short amount of time before trying to move again. On longer travels there is no problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do you know if it's because of the motor, or because of something else? (Vref not set properly maybe?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14188" LastActivityDate="2020-02-16T16:00:40.130" Title="X carriage &quot;vibrates&quot; on small segments" Tags="|stepper|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8750" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-04-21T16:58:08.840" Score="2" ViewCount="690" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a TEVO Tornado that I messed a bit with, so basically now I have:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;MKS GEN 1.4 board&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;TMC2130 stepper drivers&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;E3D v6 hotend&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A few days ago the heater cartridge so I replace it with the old one that was on the hotend of the TEVO Tornado. Now ideally both should be 40&amp;nbsp;W from what I found online but after I replaced it the heating didn't work as expect so I set out to re-tune the PID parameters but no matter what value I try the temperature is always oscillating below the desired temp. Say the desired temp is 200&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C then the head temp will oscillate between 187-200&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C. I tried &lt;code&gt;M303&lt;/code&gt; auto tuning but with no luck for some reason the temperature can't go above 160-170&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C when auto tuning so I get a thermal runaway error. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried setting the D term to 0 and then to 1000 but the difference in behavior didn't change a lot which I think is weird... I thought the board might be going crazy so the timing for the PID controller is messed up but the thing is that is was working fine with the old heater cartridge. Any ideas?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15049" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-04-21T22:07:04.727" LastActivityDate="2019-05-27T10:03:25.420" Title="Tuning PID parameters for hotend" Tags="|troubleshooting|hotend|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8751" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-04-21T23:29:26.213" Score="2" ViewCount="13563" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am trying to print the 3 jaw lathe chuck on &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:624625&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Thingiverse&lt;/a&gt;. This specific piece is the scroll.stl, but it applies on every big piece. The print material is (transparent) PLA, that I print on custom glass bed, which is heated by a regular heated bed at 65&amp;nbsp;°C. However, my print is warping on the external edges of a solid 2&amp;nbsp;mm for a 85&amp;nbsp;mm diameter print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/O7rCP.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/O7rCP.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Print warping&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I didn't use the cooling fan. And I don't have an enclosure to keep the warmth inside the printing area. The nozzle temperature is around 200&amp;nbsp;°C.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What could be wrong?&#xA;The printer is a slightly modified Prusa i3 MK2.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9438" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-04-22T03:57:15.720" LastActivityDate="2019-04-25T00:45:04.440" Title="PLA print warping on heated bed" Tags="|print-quality|prusa-i3|warping|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ClosedDate="2019-04-25T08:58:10.347" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8752" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8751" CreationDate="2019-04-22T00:05:32.487" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Several things I've done to stop warping when it occurred:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Use a wider brim.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If the brim isn't sticking, use a higher bed temperature for the first layer.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If the brim comes up only on one side or warping is only on one side, make sure the bed is level.  &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Slowing down the print will keep you from having as long of a strand cooling down.  This will lower the contraction force and reduce warping.  &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;A hotter bed temperature will reduce the temperature difference between the extrusion and the bed, thus reducing the contraction force.  &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;200&amp;nbsp;°C is a good temperature for getting PLA to stick.  I've tried lower extrusion temperatures to reduce the temperature difference between the extruder and the bed, but this decreases adhesion to the bed and is counterproductive. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15075" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2019-04-22T06:43:30.200" LastActivityDate="2019-04-22T06:43:30.200" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8754" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8748" CreationDate="2019-04-22T07:41:16.117" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The overall torque, and thus the incremental torque is less with your new stepper, this may result in less smooth operation because of moving the weight of the carriage (e.g. when you have a direct extruder mounted on the X carriage). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could be facing skipping steps, resulting in less accurate prints. Maybe the Vref has not been adjusted correctly, or the stepper is just not working for your application.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2019-04-22T07:41:16.117" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8756" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8729" CreationDate="2019-04-22T17:43:30.350" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It looked like the firmware wasn't flashed correctly in the factory. What I did was to flash a bootloader using an Arduino compatible board and to flash the Marlin software e.g. according to &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3gwWVFtdg-4&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;videos from this guy&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next, the menu wasn't displayed correctly so I added, in the &lt;code&gt;Configuration.h&lt;/code&gt; the following lines:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#define ST7920_DELAY_1 DELAY_NS(63)&#xA;#define ST7920_DELAY_2 DELAY_NS(100)&#xA;#define ST7920_DELAY_3 DELAY_NS(125)&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now the display is working fine, and the Marlin firmware can be directly flashed from the computer because the bootloader remains there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also had a problem with the heating bed which was heating very slow and I had to raise consistently the &lt;code&gt;TEMP_BED_RESIDENCY_TIME&lt;/code&gt; and decrease &lt;code&gt;TEMP_BED_HYSTERESIS&lt;/code&gt; to 1.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15198" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-04-22T19:38:36.610" LastActivityDate="2019-04-22T19:38:36.610" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8758" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-04-23T03:35:45.877" Score="3" ViewCount="2863" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am trying to figure out how to wire up Auto Bed Leveling (ABL) on my Ender 3 using the optocoupler and inductive proximity sensor below.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I cannot figure out how to wire it all together, all the tutorials I have found are for 2 and 3 wire per side of the optocoupler.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VL6Ix.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;NOYITO Optocoupler Isolation MOS FET 10A DC 2.7-27V High-Power Field Effect Tube Driver Module 0-20Khz PWM Switch Control Board Development Board Module&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VL6Ix.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;NOYITO Optocoupler Isolation MOS FET 10A DC 2.7-27V High-Power Field Effect Tube Driver Module 0-20Khz PWM Switch Control Board Development Board Module&quot; title=&quot;NOYITO Optocoupler Isolation MOS FET 10A DC 2.7-27V High-Power Field Effect Tube Driver Module 0-20Khz PWM Switch Control Board Development Board Module&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/t5FWj.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;uxcell 4mm Inductive Proximity Approach Sensor Switch Detector NPN NO DC 6-36V 300mA 3-Wire LJ12A3-4-Z/BX&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/t5FWj.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;uxcell 4mm Inductive Proximity Approach Sensor Switch Detector NPN NO DC 6-36V 300mA 3-Wire LJ12A3-4-Z/BX&quot; title=&quot;uxcell 4mm Inductive Proximity Approach Sensor Switch Detector NPN NO DC 6-36V 300mA 3-Wire LJ12A3-4-Z/BX&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15239" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2019-04-23T15:21:04.717" LastActivityDate="2019-04-23T21:01:49.653" Title="How to connect optocoupler module to ABL sensor and Ender 3 board" Tags="|creality-ender-3|bed-leveling|z-probe|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8759" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8758" CreationDate="2019-04-23T07:01:26.180" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Connecting is pretty straightforward like the other modules, difference is an extra input lead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From e.g. &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.desertcart.ae/products/92694483-noyito-optocoupler-isolation-mos-fet-10-a-dc-2-7-27-v-high-power-field-effect-tube-driver-module-0-20-khz-pwm-switch-control-board-development-board-module&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;: Module interface description: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;DC+: Positive DC power supply. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;DC- : Negative DC power supply. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;PWM: Signal input (connect MCU port, PLC interface, DC power supply, etc.) &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;GND: The negative terminal of the signal &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;OUT+: Positive output terminal (connected to the device positive) &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;OUT-: Negative output terminal (connected to device negative)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, 1 and 2 connect to your power supply that matches the voltage of the logic of your microprocessor (5&amp;nbsp;V) as this must be linked to 5 and 6 which are connected to the endstop signal and ground respectively.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for the sensor, blue is GND, black is signal (PWM) and brown is power as seen in e.g. &lt;a href=&quot;/a/6359&quot;&gt;this answer&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2019-04-23T07:01:26.180" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8760" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-04-23T08:05:51.343" Score="5" ViewCount="7430" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm having problems when printing small parts over big areas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm currently printing quite big casing (~180&amp;nbsp;mm x 100&amp;nbsp;mm), which has hexagonal holes on the corners. On the first layer the printer prints, in order:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Supports inside the holes, &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Borders around the holes&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Border of the whole casing and finally &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Infill (since it is first layer, infill is solid)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When printing borders around holes, printer's head travels between all holes (so that's around 90&amp;nbsp;% of the whole bed width), what results in filament oozing and the hole borders being underextruded (sometimes to the point, that filament doesn't stick to the bed).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My setup is CReality3D Ender 3 with Ultimaker Cura 3. Most important settings: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Print speed 40&amp;nbsp;mm/s&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Nozzle temperature 215&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bed temperature 60&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Retraction on travel turned on&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Retraction additional prime amount set to 0.05&amp;nbsp;mm&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Outer walls printed after inner ones&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What would help (I guess) is slowing down the print after long travels or priming more filament, but proportionally to the travel distance. There are no such settings in Ultimaker Cura though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I deal with such problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15102" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-04-23T14:03:34.683" LastActivityDate="2019-04-25T03:48:57.027" Title="Underextrusion after long travels" Tags="|print-quality|ultimaker-cura|troubleshooting|creality-ender-3|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8761" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8758" CreationDate="2019-04-23T08:42:57.440" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a bit of an &lt;em&gt;addendum&lt;/em&gt; to 0scar's answer, as I didn't want to edit it in to his post.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For completion, the sensor's internal schematic is on the side of the sensor itself&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DbsjD.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DbsjD.png&quot; alt=&quot;Sensor schematic&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;where:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;PNP - 1 BN - Brown - V&lt;sub&gt;SUPPLY&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;N/O - 4 BK - Black - Sensor output&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;4 mm - 3 BU - Blue  - GND&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, the complete diagram, taken from &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.instructables.com/id/Enable-Auto-Leveling-for-your-3D-Printer-Marlin-Fi/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Instructables - Enable Auto Leveling for Your 3D Printer With an Inductive Sensor (Marlin Firmware)&lt;/a&gt;, can be seen here:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2O66A.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Complete schematic&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2O66A.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Complete schematic&quot; title=&quot;Complete schematic&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Footnotes&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; Taken from &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.picclickimg.com/d/w1600/pict/273297496840_/4mm-Inductive-Proximity-Approach-Sensor-Switch-PNP-NO.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this image&lt;/a&gt;, which was on this product page, &lt;a href=&quot;https://picclick.com/4mm-Inductive-Proximity-Approach-Sensor-Switch-PNP-NO-273297496840.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;4mm Inductive Proximity Approach Sensor Switch PNP NO DC 6-36V 200mA Cylinder&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nSWyh.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nSWyh.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Sensor image#1&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a bit more to the schematic, which can be glimpsed here (on the left hand side):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2EVa0.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2EVa0.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Sensor image#2&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A fuller, but blurry, view of the left hand side can be seen &lt;a href=&quot;https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/41kMRIsIl4L.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;, from this &lt;a href=&quot;https://weshop.co.id/amazon/item/uxcell-4mm-inductive-proximity-approach-sensor-switch-pnp-nc-dc-6-36v-200ma-3-wire-lj12a3-4-zay-cylinder-class-B07CWRHG4S.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;product page&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/27t1t.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Left hand side of sticker on sensor&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/27t1t.png&quot; alt=&quot;Left hand side of sticker on sensor&quot; title=&quot;Left hand side of sticker on sensor&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4762" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:29:41.667" LastActivityDate="2019-04-23T21:01:49.653" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8763" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8626" CreationDate="2019-04-23T15:37:51.813" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;On this thread, &lt;a href=&quot;https://support.mosaicmfg.com/hc/en-us/community/posts/360021788573-Does-anyone-tried-Palette-2-0-on-Creality-Ender-3-or-Ender-3-Pro-&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Does anyone tried Palette 2.0 on Creality Ender 3 or Ender 3 Pro?&lt;/a&gt;, there are a couple of useful links:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;There is a video, albeit for the CR-10&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;, but that should be of help: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5DuGGmxKv94&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;YouTube - Setup Guide: Creality CR-10 with Palette 2&lt;/a&gt;;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;In addition, this Facebook group, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.facebook.com/groups/mosaic.users/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Mosaic Palette, Palette+, Palette 2 (Pro) Users&lt;/a&gt;, apparently has some users who have paired their Ender 3 with the Palette 2.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, &lt;em&gt;with respect to your question about the flow rate and steps/mm&lt;/em&gt;, there isn't much info out there about that, and no one seems to have experienced similar issues, but your issue &lt;em&gt;might&lt;/em&gt; have something to do with profiles - which, as you haven't mentioned them in your question, it is hard to know if that might be the issue or not. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the same thread, &lt;a href=&quot;https://support.mosaicmfg.com/hc/en-us/community/posts/360021788573/comments/360002849734&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this post&lt;/a&gt;, states:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I use it with the Ender 3.  There is a profile in Canvas and Chroma for it also. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This link here, &lt;a href=&quot;https://support.mosaicmfg.com/hc/en-us/articles/360012415733-Chroma-for-Palette-2&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Chroma for Palette 2&lt;/a&gt;, states that &lt;em&gt;after&lt;/em&gt; using Cura, you then need to load the G-code file into Chroma v3.1, after having selected the appropriate &lt;strong&gt;profile&lt;/strong&gt;. However, if you use Canvas, then there is no need for Cura nor Chroma, as Canvas can slice. This link goes through the whole process for Benchy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the risk of repetition, the process for preparing the print, post-slicing, is also given here, from &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprintingcanada.com/blogs/news/multicolor-3d-printing-with-chroma-on-the-creality-ender-3&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Multicolor 3D Printing How To: Using the Mosaic Palette+ with the Creality Ender 3&lt;/a&gt;, albeit slightly different from the link above:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;h3&gt;Setting Up Chroma:&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;When you load up Chroma, you’ll be presented with a blank canvas ready&#xA;  to be filled with your 3D creations.  In the top left corner, make&#xA;  sure that you have the &lt;strong&gt;Ender 3&lt;/strong&gt; selected from the drop down menu. &#xA;  After this you can click &lt;strong&gt;Load Print&lt;/strong&gt;.  From there you’ll be presented&#xA;  with your gcode files that you have on your computer.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;In this example we will be selecting the &lt;code&gt;butterfly-1.gcode&lt;/code&gt; file, and&#xA;  clicking &lt;strong&gt;Open&lt;/strong&gt;.  From here Chroma will be compiling and arranging the&#xA;  settings for the gcode file to be displayed.  This might take a minute&#xA;  or more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;h3&gt;Selecting Your Colors:&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Once the loading is completed, you will be presented with the 3D&#xA;  rendering of our butterfly!  This butterfly will be in 4 randomly&#xA;  selected colors by default, but we will be changing this next!  To&#xA;  change the colors, navigate to the top of the screen where you will&#xA;  see 4 colored circles, and drop down arrows along with each circle. &#xA;  These circles represent the colors of each tool head.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;To change the color, click on the &lt;strong&gt;Tool Head Colored Circle&lt;/strong&gt;, and your&#xA;  options for color will appear, we’re going to select &lt;strong&gt;Black&lt;/strong&gt; for our&#xA;  first color.  After this, you will want to select the &lt;strong&gt;Default PLA&#xA;  Settings&lt;/strong&gt; by clicking the &lt;strong&gt;Drop Down Arrow&lt;/strong&gt; to the right of the first&#xA;  &lt;strong&gt;Tool Head Colored Circle&lt;/strong&gt;.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;As we make these changes you will notice that the 3D rendering of our&#xA;  butterfly will change to our corresponding colors.  Repeat this&#xA;  process for the remaining 3 Tool Heads, remember to use the &lt;strong&gt;Default&#xA;  PLA Settings&lt;/strong&gt; for each Tool Head.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;h3&gt;Saving Your Project:&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;After you have selected all your colors, you will click &lt;strong&gt;Save for&#xA;  Printer&lt;/strong&gt; in the top right corner of Chroma.  From there, name your&#xA;  file, and click &lt;strong&gt;Save&lt;/strong&gt;.  You will be then presented with a loading bar&#xA;  as Chroma prepares our 2 output files.  One of the files will be an&#xA;  adjusted gcode file that has added the purge tower we just modified,&#xA;  and the other file will be a file that goes straight to the Mosaic&#xA;  Palette+.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;h3&gt;Printing Your Project:&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Once the files are ready, you will be presented with a screen that&#xA;  says “Ready to Print!”.  On this screen you will be presented with the&#xA;  files you have created for your project, which for us are the&#xA;  &lt;code&gt;butterfly-1.msf&lt;/code&gt; which goes to the Mosaic Palette+ and the&#xA;  &lt;code&gt;butterfly-1.msf.gcode&lt;/code&gt; file which is your newly created gcode file.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  You will also be presented with “Materials Used” for the project,&#xA;  “Number of Splices” for the project, and “Number of Pings” for the&#xA;  project.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;After this, you will need to turn your Creality Ender 3 on if it isn’t&#xA;  already.  After making sure that you have all your &lt;strong&gt;components set up&#xA;  and assembled correctly&lt;/strong&gt;, then it is safe to begin the printing&#xA;  process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Depending on your specific project will determine how long the&#xA;  printing process takes.  But once your printing process is complete&#xA;  you will be presented with your &lt;strong&gt;beautiful multicolored 3D butterfly&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;  (or whatever your project was)!  After printing is finished, you&#xA;  should let the project cool before you attempt to remove it from the&#xA;  tray. Once it has cooled you can now gently pry the project off of the&#xA;  tray.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Footnotes&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; The CR-10 is, on a broader level, an Ender-3 with 2 lead screws and a slightly different board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4762" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2019-04-23T18:36:29.453" LastActivityDate="2019-04-23T18:36:29.453" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8765" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-04-23T22:44:15.120" Score="2" ViewCount="176" Body="&lt;p&gt;I made a print that involves joining two halves together to create the full model. I decided to use hot glue to bond the halves and on one model, the parts came together slightly skewed. Is there any way to ‘unbond’ the hot glue without ruining the model so I can realign the pieces? Touching the glue gun tip to the hot glue wouldn’t work, as the glue is &lt;em&gt;inside&lt;/em&gt; the model.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15248" LastActivityDate="2019-04-24T20:45:53.423" Title="Unbonding Hot Glue" Tags="|post-processing|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8766" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8765" CreationDate="2019-04-24T00:14:45.663" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Depending on the composition of your model, the heat you've applied by using the glue gun has distorted the surfaces, or they haven't. One would hope that the model is composed of material that is not unduly damaged by the heat of the gun.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suggest that if you can test the material of the model independent of the misaligned item, you can determine if my answer will work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Apply hot glue to a test section, let it cure. Secure another portion to the test, but apply it in such a manner as to be displaced by gravity if it is not cooled. The first part should be &quot;locked&quot; to a surface, while the second should be free to move if not glued/cured.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Place the section in a small heated chamber such as a toaster oven. Observe the parts as you slowly increase the heat. When you see the unsecured part begin to slide/move, you've determined the temperature at which the hot glue releases.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to a quick search, hot glue melts between 120°C and 200°C. The latter temperature is for specific high temperature sticks, while the lower number is for low temp sticks. PLA printing temperatures are often above 200°C, which gives you some leeway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately, PLA will soften before it melts and that can happen well below the melting point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Testing will give you more definitive results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your testing appears promising, you may be able to place the model in the oven at the predetermined temperature, let it reach softening temperature, then slide the parts into position.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: A second option...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've had a new attack pop into my alleged mind. I recall reading that alcohol will help clear hot glue and a quick 'net search confirms that both isopropyl alcohol and denatured alcohol will work on cleaning up hot glue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can attest that denatured alcohol does no harm to PLA or to ABS and we use it at the maker space to create a faster release from the PEI bed. Of course, if the model has tight fit, it's going to be much more time consuming to get sufficient alcohol into the gap to free it up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd consider an ultrasonic cleaner with a bin full of denatured alcohol as the first option, even over the pre-heat above.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastEditorUserId="854" LastEditDate="2019-04-24T20:45:53.423" LastActivityDate="2019-04-24T20:45:53.423" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9765" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8760" CreationDate="2019-04-24T05:28:10.603" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;it seems like retraction issue&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;i would say you should experiment with &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;retraction length - so it would retract more&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;extra extrusion after retraction - so the printer could put some material before it will start your next hole :)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;unfortunately there is no good guide how much it should retract and how much it should additionally extrude as it depends on &quot;all your printing circumstances&quot; but here is my arbitrary list in order of importance&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;filament (density - type and producer)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;temperature (viscosity - hotter filament flows easier)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;nozzle diam (as filament escapes easier through big hole ;)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;heat barrier (cooling efficiency - filament should be cool as long as possible up to (or down to) the nozzle)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;extruder gearing quality (good coupling makes precise retraction and extra-extrusion)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;cooling (fan and duct should cool your printing right after it sticks to the surface)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and one more thing worth to mention&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;usually the first layer is not cooled which makes whole system hotter (so filament flows easier)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;you could experiment with it too especially for big printouts &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;so&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;overextrude first layer AND &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;turn on cooling first layer&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;it seems like there is a bunch of things you can do to master it :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;good luck - it's definitely manageable&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1211" LastActivityDate="2019-04-24T05:28:10.603" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9766" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8747" CreationDate="2019-04-24T08:16:01.513" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;i would suggest to start with something simpler&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;there are many test objects to print and see the results&#xA;please &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/search?q=test%20object&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;take a look here&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;the idea is to recognise issues (one by one or at least the most basic) and point them and eliminate them directly&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;looking at your printout i could of course suggest many things&#xA;but it would be better to make this process more clear... for you&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;so you could manage it on your own&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;to be somehow constructive&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;i would say there are 3 main issues on the picture you've presented&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;HE temperature&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;printing speed&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;not-so-stiff printer construction (or belt tension)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;print test cube and show your results so we can go further&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1211" LastActivityDate="2019-04-24T08:16:01.513" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9769" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8765" CreationDate="2019-04-24T15:25:24.280" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is on the market as Hot Glue - or rather &amp;quot;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hot-melt_adhesive&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Hot Melt Adhedive&lt;/a&gt;&amp;quot; (HMA) is usually a slightly ductile, thermoplastic that sticks to most surfaces because it can easily mold into slight deformations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;HMA basics&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of the most common base thermoplastics is Ethylene-vinyl acetate, aka EVA, mixed with terpene-phenol resin (TPR) to make it tackier and wax, like paraffin, as a filler to make it more economical. These HMA's are usually rated for 30-50 °C ambient temperature and start to soften enough for stress creep at 60-80 °C. Using this low level of heat might allow forcing the parts to move slowly without getting into the more dangerous zone of 120-200 °C, where the HMA actually melts and PLA follows suit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;CAUTION!&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yet we got a problem: many PLA mixtures I have encountered do soften enough at temperatures around 60 °C (like sitting in a hot car) so the print can be deformed permanently. This finding for non-annealed PLA also matches with what Stefan of CNC Kitchen found in a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vLrISrkg46g&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;temperature resistance test.&lt;/a&gt; He found in the &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/vLrISrkg46g?t=577&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;conclusion&lt;/a&gt; that 55-60 °C starts to affect non-annealed PLA while tempered PLA can withstand 160 °C to 180 °C, depending on the blend.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Cutting&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, most HMA formulas result in a material that can be carved and cut with a sharp knife. As long as your halves don't have interlocking lugs that block access to the &lt;em&gt;plug&lt;/em&gt; of HMA, you could use a long, thin blade to slowly cut the halves apart.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Localized heat&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another solution might be coming in the shape of a soldering iron: by using it to apply the heat more localized than with a hot air gun, the HMA plug might get softened and then either removed in pieces or realigned. This needs considerable control over the heating and a careful hand. As an alternative, if the halves are not &lt;em&gt;too&lt;/em&gt; much skewed from their intended positions, a hot soldering iron might be used to smooth over the edge, but it would destroy surface details.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;What to do better next time?&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are basically two things that could help to prevent misalignment before the HMA application step:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Alignment lugs/notches would make sure the pieces snap into position.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If none are present, holding the piece into position and spot-welding in some none visible places - for example using &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Cj9TMmUldhc&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;friction welding&lt;/a&gt; as explained by Polymaker - can help to keep the pieces in position before the addition of the HMA.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:29:41.667" LastActivityDate="2019-04-24T15:37:16.590" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9770" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-04-24T18:14:20.410" Score="0" ViewCount="183" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had imported a &lt;code&gt;.stl&lt;/code&gt; file into Fusion 360- from Blender, but I couldn't size it to my required dimensions. Then I tried to make an object in Fusion. It works but when I want to size it (by hitting the &lt;kbd&gt;D&lt;/kbd&gt; key) it says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;[Error: Sketch geometry is over constrained]...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I realise if I add a sketch, that is flat I can size with &lt;kbd&gt;D&lt;/kbd&gt; key but if I extrude it I couldn't size it any more. Same thing if I add a 3D object for example a box. Anyway I add a point on a face of that body (in the middle), then I could size it from that point to a edge but that all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What did I do wrong and why I couldn't I size that body?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How do I suppose to size it?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;With the &lt;code&gt;.stl&lt;/code&gt; file imported from Blender or with the body made by me in Fusion 360?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please help me understand how this site works with size...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16255" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2019-04-25T07:37:21.900" LastActivityDate="2019-04-25T08:58:46.827" Title="Trouble with sizing in Fusion 360" Tags="|fusion360|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9771" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9895" CreationDate="2019-04-24T19:20:24.317" Score="4" ViewCount="1699" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm assembling a 3D printer with the RAMPS 1.4 shield (board) and an Arduino Mega. I have assembled the structure and the electronics (set drivers, placed the jumpers, connected stepper motors, etc.) and have uploaded Marlin firmware (configuring: thermistor, etc.) on to the Arduino Mega.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At first I tested my printer without end stops and at that time it worked perfectly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Today I added three end stops and tested again. First it worked fine but after couple of minutes Pronterface gave this error:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;&amp;gt; Connecting...&#xA;Traceback (most recent call last):&#xA;  File &quot;printrun\pronterface.pyc&quot;, line 1053, in connect&#xA;  File &quot;printrun\pronsole.pyc&quot;, line 720, in connect_to_printer&#xA;  File &quot;printrun\printcore.pyc&quot;, line 46, in inner&#xA;  File &quot;printrun\printcore.pyc&quot;, line 197, in connect&#xA;  File &quot;serial\serialwin32.pyc&quot;, line 31, in __init__&#xA;  File &quot;serial\serialutil.pyc&quot;, line 261, in __init__&#xA;  File &quot;serial\serialwin32.pyc&quot;, line 71, in open&#xA;  File &quot;serial\serialwin32.pyc&quot;, line 186, in _reconfigurePort&#xA;**ValueError: Cannot configure port, some setting was wrong. Original message: [Error 31] A device attached to the system is not functioning.**&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried removing end stops, re-wiring, removing all cables from the RAMPS shield except power cables. Still it gives that error. Although Pronterface connects to the Arduino board when the RAMPS shield isn't powered up. Also the Arduino's regulator is heating up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do I need to buy a new RAMPS shield? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16256" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-04-24T23:17:04.347" LastActivityDate="2019-05-09T14:47:03.630" Title="Pronterface not connecting ERROR: A device attached to the system is not functioning" Tags="|ramps-1.4|pronterface|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9772" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9770" CreationDate="2019-04-25T00:33:12.150" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Welcome to SE.3DP! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First off, F360 isn't the best with STL files. If you're having trouble with constraints and dimensions, I would suggest watching this Maker's Muse video first: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b27GKqMn_9U&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;How to use Constraints! CAD for Newbies with Fusion 360&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second, Fusion360 is very tricky with importing STL's. My steps below should help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;In the lower right-hand corner, at the rightmost end of the timeline, you'll see a little gear. When you click on the gear, click the very top option: &quot;Do not capture design history&quot;. This puts you into &lt;strong&gt;Direct Modelling&lt;/strong&gt; mode.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;In the top left-hand corner, where it says &quot;Model&quot;, and select &quot;Mesh&quot; from the menu.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Along the toolbar, in the &quot;Create&quot; section, click &quot;Insert mesh&quot;. When that's done, go back to the top left where it now says &quot;Mesh&quot; and use the menu to go back to &quot;Model&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Now that you're back in &quot;Model&quot;, go to the &quot;Modify&quot; menu. In there, find the &quot;Mesh&quot; section, and in that box, click &quot;Mesh to BRep&quot;. That will convert your STL into a Fusion360 file that you can edit.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, if you want to use constraints, I would suggest sketching out your object entirely in Fusion, making constraints and dimensions along the way. I know it's annoying, but it'll be easier to modify it in Fusion.&#xA;Hope that helps!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14700" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2019-04-25T07:40:52.013" LastActivityDate="2019-04-25T07:40:52.013" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9773" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8751" CreationDate="2019-04-25T00:45:04.440" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Glass is tricky. Try using a glue stick. It makes the problem getting it off more than keeping it on. Magigoo and Aquanet also come highly recommended for glass. Another thing would be printing with a raft. Raft's stick pretty well, and most prints stick to a raft, and those prints won't lift. A third trick would be using an extrusion multiplier &lt;em&gt;on your first layer only.&lt;/em&gt; As far as slicer tricks go, check to see when (if at all) your cooling fans turn on. usually, fans will turn on about 12-15 layer into your print. Any earlier, and they may peel. Bed level, although crucial to have to some degree of accuracy, is somewhat nullified when a raft is used. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope that helps!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14700" LastActivityDate="2019-04-25T00:45:04.440" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9774" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8629" CreationDate="2019-04-25T01:18:09.293" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;When the end of the filament is beyond the reach of the hobbed stepper gear, your print will stop extruding. Some printers (i.e. Prusa i3, Craftbot 3, etc) have runout sensors. These sensors can be a switch or some form of a circuit that is broken when the filament isn't there to close it (I'm no mechatronics engineer or anything, so my terminology may be a bit off). When these switches are tripped, the printer automatically pauses the print, allowing you to come and rescue it. Fancier printers like the Craftbot 3 will actually send you an email when your filament runs out &lt;em&gt;or even jams!&lt;/em&gt; Of course, that machine is over $3600CAD, and well out of most peoples price range. The Ender 3, being around 300 dollars, is not equipped with a runout sensor. Switches and 3D printing files to make your own are either cheap or free.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And yes, some filament may need to be wasted if you do a swap. Direct drive extruders have the same problem but at a much smaller scale. If you just feed new filament into your machine, you will lose all retraction (which is annoying) until the second length of filament is in. At the point where the filament switches, (depending on your extruder and print speed) you may get a small patch of under extrusion. Nothing that will seriously compromise part strength, but it won't be super pretty.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope that helps!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14700" LastActivityDate="2019-04-25T01:18:09.293" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9775" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8760" CreationDate="2019-04-25T03:37:14.013" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Set &lt;code&gt;retraction_min_travel&lt;/code&gt; to 0. The default value is 1.5 and skips retraction when moving less than 1.5 mm. This leads to serious oozing whenever your print has small travel, which seems likely between the hole walls and the supports inside the holes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, the &quot;custom start gcode&quot; in Cura's Ender 3 configuration seriously over-primes the extruder, possibly making retraction ineffective until the pressure drops. Lowering the &lt;code&gt;E15&lt;/code&gt; and &lt;code&gt;E30&lt;/code&gt; amounts to &lt;code&gt;E9&lt;/code&gt; and &lt;code&gt;E18&lt;/code&gt; improved things &lt;strong&gt;a lot&lt;/strong&gt; for me, especially with flex filament, but also with normal PLA. Printing a skirt or brim would probably be an alternative if you don't feel up to editing that part of the config.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Increasing the retraction amount could also help. You should &lt;strong&gt;not&lt;/strong&gt; need extra prime after travel. It can only help if you've lost material to oozing during travel, and if you have oozing, that's a problem in itself that you need to solve, not paper over by extruding additional material.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastEditorUserId="11157" LastEditDate="2019-04-25T03:48:57.027" LastActivityDate="2019-04-25T03:48:57.027" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9776" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-04-25T04:04:33.897" Score="1" ViewCount="106" Body="&lt;p&gt;How is the &lt;code&gt;Ex.xxx&lt;/code&gt; calculated, formula&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;G1 X129.000 Y126.322 E7.90758&#xA;G1 X128.476 Y125.548 E7.92045 &#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16259" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-04-25T08:41:46.327" LastActivityDate="2019-04-25T08:41:46.327" Title="How is the Ex.xxx calculated?" Tags="|extrusion|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2019-04-25T08:58:17.287" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9779" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9782" CreationDate="2019-04-25T16:27:29.330" Score="1" ViewCount="374" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can Nylon 6,10 be used for 3D FDM printing? What range of temperatures be used to print with it? How does it compare to the standard 3D printing Nylon material (I think it is 6,6).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14412" LastActivityDate="2019-04-25T19:04:14.120" Title="Printing with Nylon 6,10" Tags="|print-material|nylon|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9780" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9781" CreationDate="2019-04-25T16:38:27.463" Score="3" ViewCount="10474" Body="&lt;p&gt;Following advice I read elsewhere, I have covered my (heated) print bed with blue painter's tape, and before each print I apply an Elmer's purple washable glue stick to improve bed adhesion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After the print finishes and I remove the part from the bed, the bottom is covered with a white residue. I'm fairly certain this is the dried glue. It turns purple again when I wet it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there an easy way to clean off this residue, or is there a better technique?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bizFY.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bizFY.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;example part with residue&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16270" LastActivityDate="2019-04-26T07:33:11.420" Title="Removing glue residue on part after printing" Tags="|print-quality|adhesion|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9781" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9780" CreationDate="2019-04-25T18:16:23.900" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Elmer's Purple Gluestick is pretty much based on PVA with a water-indicator. It is a water-soluble material. Tossing the piece into a water bin and brushing it with a toothbrush should remove everything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastActivityDate="2019-04-25T18:16:23.900" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9782" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9779" CreationDate="2019-04-25T19:04:14.120" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Based on the information from a Quorra question about &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.quora.com/What-is-the-difference-between-nylon-6-6-and-nylon-6-10&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;what the difference between Nylon 6,10 and Nylon 6,6&lt;/a&gt; is and a &lt;a href=&quot;https://knowledge.ulprospector.com/8404/pe-difference-between-nylon-6-and-nylon-66/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;ULprospector article&lt;/a&gt;, we can establish:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;6,6 is a smaller molecule than 6,10.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Base materials are different - hexamethylene diamine and adipic acid (6,6) compared to hexamethylene diamine and sebacic acid (6,10)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;6,6 has a stronger tensile and compressive strength as it is more densely interlocked, but it also has a higher melting point. This means also that 6,6 is more heat tolerant.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;6,6 is also known to have the least degradation of strength under moisture, compared to other Polyamides.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;HOWEVER, 6,6 has a lesser resistance to weak acids compared to 6,10, it is also the most sensitive to UV-light and degradation from air exposure.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;6,10 also bests 6,6 in regards to absorbing less moisture (a large problem with 6,6), but is more expensive than it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Recently 6,12 is replacing 6,10 for it has very similar or better properties while being cheaper.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While I see no problem with the technical ability to make a Nylon 6,10 or Nylon 6,12 filament and print with it (the lower hygroscopic of the larger molecules might make that even easier), you will make a compromise in other areas of the material, most liekly cost and availability - to my knowledge no filament that claims to be Nylon 6,10 or Nylon 6,12 is on the market at the time of this writing (April 2019), and as such there are no known benchmarks for print settings needed are available. I would expect the print temperature to be slightly lower than that of Nylon 6,6 though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastActivityDate="2019-04-25T19:04:14.120" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9783" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9785" CreationDate="2019-04-25T20:32:56.457" Score="3" ViewCount="244" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have acquired a second hand 3D printer, the GEEETECH I3 Pro B. The previous owner tried to change the firmware but he made a mistake and he bricked the board. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to substitute the firmware of the board (which is an Arduino Mega 2560 based board). Do you think is possible if the board doesn't respond to the controls?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have inquired and found an open source software called Marlin I want to use to restore the printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have an advice or you think that I can do it in any ways tell me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16271" LastEditorUserId="16271" LastEditDate="2019-04-25T21:35:17.557" LastActivityDate="2019-04-25T21:48:12.637" Title="Can I replace a damaged firmware of a 3D printer based on Arduino Mega?" Tags="|diy-3d-printer|firmware|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9784" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8626" CreationDate="2019-04-25T20:53:18.677" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The guide is at &lt;a href=&quot;https://support.mosaicmfg.com/hc/en-us/articles/360011124234-Getting-Started-With-Palette-2-Setup-to-Printing-&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Getting Started With Palette 2 (Setup to Printing)&lt;/a&gt;, which includes guides to use the correct slicer software and swapping &lt;a href=&quot;https://support.mosaicmfg.com/hc/en-us/articles/360010073234-Firmware-Update&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;the firmware&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The latter part may be a little bit of an ordeal on the Ender3 as there is no bootloader on it - however, it is not apparent from the instruction, whether this would be an issue or not - it seems to be a fairly simple process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;ol&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Open your Palette 2 package and remove your Palette 2 unit and USB cable. Connect your Palette 2 to your computer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;To help the updater recognize the port for your Palette, try&#xA;  unplugging other USB devices.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Download our Firmware Installer for your operating system. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Latest Palette Firmware V. 4.2.3 (Mar 14, 2019)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Windows (x32 or x64) &lt;a href=&quot;https://s3.amazonaws.com/mosaic-resources/p2fwup/latest/Palette+2+Firmware+Updater+Setup+1.1.2.exe&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Download&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;macOS    &lt;a href=&quot;https://s3.amazonaws.com/mosaic-resources/p2fwup/latest/Palette+2+Firmware+Updater-1.1.2.dmg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Download&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Linux (x64, Tested on Ubuntu 16.04)  &lt;a href=&quot;https://s3.amazonaws.com/mosaic-resources/p2fwup/latest/Palette+2+Firmware+Updater-1.1.2.dmg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Download&lt;/a&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Follow the on-screen instructions and click &quot;Install Latest&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Once the firmware is updated, you will receive the &lt;em&gt;Success&lt;/em&gt; message, and you can unplug your unit from your computer.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;hr&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; For Linux users, please refer to this &lt;a href=&quot;https://support.mosaicmfg.com/hc/en-us/articles/115004996014-Enabling-USB-Serial-Port-Permissions-on-Linux&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;support article&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4762" LastActivityDate="2019-04-25T20:53:18.677" CommentCount="1" CommunityOwnedDate="2019-04-25T20:53:18.677" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9785" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9783" CreationDate="2019-04-25T21:38:38.890" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is hard to diagnose the board without hands on experience. It is even more difficult if you get a board that has been &quot;updated/upgraded&quot; by a previous owner leaving it not in working condition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But, there are at least 2 solutions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You could buy a new printer controller board, upload new firmware and connect all connectors.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You could try to &lt;a href=&quot;https://electronics.stackexchange.com/a/7777&quot;&gt;burn a new bootloader&lt;/a&gt; onto your current board and &lt;a href=&quot;http://marlinfw.org/docs/basics/install.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;upload a new version of the firmware&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-04-25T21:48:12.637" LastActivityDate="2019-04-25T21:48:12.637" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9786" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8421" CreationDate="2019-04-26T07:02:55.703" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It might be this board, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.shropshire3dprinters.co.uk/makerbot-5th-generation-motherboard.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;MakerBot 5th Generation motherboard&lt;/a&gt;, (&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.shropshire3dprinters.co.uk/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/m/a/makerbot-ersatzteil-motherboard-replicator-5.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;original image&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wFUb3.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wFUb3.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;MakerBot 5th Generation motherboard&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The image was very small, so it is rather blurry, I'm afraid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have contacted the suppliers for confirmation, and will update this answer, when/if I get a reply.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, according to this eBay item, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.ebay.com/itm/Makerbot-Replicator-Motherboard-Carriage-/322836559222&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Makerbot Replicator Motherboard Carriage&lt;/a&gt;, it &lt;em&gt;could&lt;/em&gt; be inferred&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; that the same motherboard (&lt;strong&gt;MP6292&lt;/strong&gt;) is used in the Fifth Generation &lt;em&gt;and&lt;/em&gt; the Replicator+ &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;This part is the aluminum carriage that attaches the main board to the&#xA;  printer frame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Compatible with Makerbot Replicator Fifth Generation (5th Gen) and&#xA;  Replicator+ (Plus).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;NOTE: Motherboard show here is for illustration purposes only!&#xA;  Motherboard (MP6292) is NOT included.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Main board presses right onto the carriage. No special tools are&#xA;  needed for assembly. Retaining screw is included.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lztuL.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Makerbot Replicator Motherboard Carriage&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lztuL.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Makerbot Replicator Motherboard Carriage&quot; title=&quot;Makerbot Replicator Motherboard Carriage&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A much clearer shot of the MP6292 Motherboard&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SXJfy.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;MP6292 Motherboard&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SXJfy.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;MP6292 Motherboard&quot; title=&quot;MP6292 Motherboard&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; However, that depends on whether you want to trust eBay descriptions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4762" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2019-04-26T08:22:23.557" LastActivityDate="2019-04-26T08:22:23.557" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9787" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5892" CreationDate="2019-04-26T07:23:15.530" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use Repetier software with the Cura slicer and the print time estimate tends to be about 10&amp;nbsp;% longer than the actual print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16277" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2019-04-26T08:09:02.873" LastActivityDate="2019-04-26T08:09:02.873" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9788" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9780" CreationDate="2019-04-26T07:33:11.420" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have two different makes of masking tape. The print stick so well to one of them that I end up ripping the tape up to get it off and the bottom of the print has the tape suck to it. The other roll was the complete opposite, nothing would stick to it. I ended up using the non-stick tape and applied a diluted (30% PVA - 70% water) glue to the (tape covered) hot bed. Works wonderfully.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16277" LastActivityDate="2019-04-26T07:33:11.420" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9790" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8615" CreationDate="2019-04-26T10:48:32.173" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Two possible solutions are given in this thread: &lt;a href=&quot;https://forum.arduino.cc/index.php?topic=54796.0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Upload error: avrdude: ser_open(): can't set com-state for &quot;\.\COM17&quot;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://forum.arduino.cc/index.php?topic=54796.msg2032153#msg2032153&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;This post&lt;/a&gt; says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;i am able to fix this problem very easily... just press reset button on arduino and unplug from usb and go to the arduino software installation directory (c:/program files/ arduino) and open drivers folder and open &#xA;  dpinst-amd64 by double clicking on it and just install that if it not runs may be your system runs with 32bit and open the file below the previously opened file and install it again.. close arduino programming software and open it again and choose your board and com ports and now it should upload to your board...enjoy...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or try the solution from &lt;a href=&quot;https://forum.arduino.cc/index.php?topic=54796.msg2978925#msg2978925&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this post&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I could fix this problem! Maybe this solution will works for you:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ol&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;in device manager I had unnistalled the drivers that I had. After reconnect it then it appears in &quot;Other dispositives&quot; with the name&#xA;  &quot;USB 2.0Serial&quot;. There are cases that it appears like &quot;FT232RUSB&#xA;  UART&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;my serial conversor chip on arduino uno board is &quot;CH340G&quot;. Check this on your controller boards because others like &quot;CN480661&quot; has&#xA;  another fix method. If you can't find this chip maybe this video could&#xA;  help you (in spanish, sorry, is where i found the solution):&#xA;  &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F4ar5sjbZFg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F4ar5sjbZFg&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;download the drivers &quot;CH341SE&quot; from this url: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.dropbox.com/s/3csnhlsbdrznbp3/CH341SER.zip?dl=0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.dropbox.com/s/3csnhlsbdrznbp3/CH341SER.zip?dl=0&lt;/a&gt; and then&#xA;  decompress it in a folder&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;in device manager check whether the arduino is shown (reconnect it for that if you didn't do it in `step 1) then do right click -&gt; update&#xA;  software -&gt; browse software in the computer -&gt; examine or browse&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Now you have to search the folder in which you decompress the drivers (step 3). After then pulse accept, ignore any advertice and&#xA;  continue. Then it will install the drivers and you will be able to use&#xA;  your arduino.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;NOTE: If in this last step windows has an error you need to enable the&#xA;  unknown digital signature installation. check other tutorials for this&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These seem to be the only two solutions that worked for other people experiencing the same issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4762" LastActivityDate="2019-04-26T10:48:32.173" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9792" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9793" CreationDate="2019-04-26T15:16:45.453" Score="6" ViewCount="198" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm still new to 3D printing and I want to print something. I expect that I'll mess it up since I find nothing to adjust it but it is now laying around for 4 months and I'm sick of it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So my question is where do I find Windows software to print something and of course where do I get a 3D model?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I own a Geeetech i3 Pro W.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13891" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-05-02T12:49:19.860" LastActivityDate="2024-02-15T13:18:36.577" Title="Which software do I need to start print something?" Tags="|3d-models|slicing|fdm|knowledgebase|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9793" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9792" CreationDate="2019-04-26T16:27:11.047" Score="6" Body="&lt;h2&gt;First; find a model!&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To print something you require a &lt;strong&gt;model&lt;/strong&gt; (usually this is in STL format, look into websites called &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thingiverse.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Thingiverse&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.myminifactory.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;MyMiniFactory&lt;/a&gt; for examples). Once you have a model file, you need to make it readable for the printer firmware.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can't find suitable model, then you need to design a model yourself (or ask someone to do it for you) or adjust an existing model to suit your needs. &amp;quot;&lt;a href=&quot;/q/740/&quot;&gt;Good (preferably free) Beginner Software for Part Creation?&lt;/a&gt;&amp;quot; is a good place to start.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Second; use slicer software&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a printer to be able to print the model, the model needs to be sliced into layers. These layers need to be printed at specific speeds, temperatures, etc. Search online and look at the filament packaging (usually the ideal temperatures are on the packaging) to find the ideal temperature for your filament. If you are not using the right temperatures, your print will most likely fail. Programs that are able to slice models are called &lt;strong&gt;slicers&lt;/strong&gt;. The most popular free (and Windows compatible) slicers are &lt;a href=&quot;https://ultimaker.com/en/products/ultimaker-cura-software&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Ultimaker Cura&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;https://slic3r.org&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Slic3r&lt;/a&gt; (or its &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.prusa3d.com/slic3r-prusa-edition/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Prusa distribution&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The slicer produces a printer readable file called a G-code file (file filled with printer instructions for e.g. movement and heating). This G-code file can be sent to the printer using specific printer software (e.g. OctoPrint, Repetier-Host, etc.) but more common or simple is to put the G-code file on an SD card and print the file using the print menu on the printer LCD.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:29:41.667" LastActivityDate="2019-05-03T22:09:22.330" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9794" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9795" CreationDate="2019-04-26T17:56:10.070" Score="12" ViewCount="1959" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Z-fighting&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Z-fighting&lt;/a&gt; is a 3D rendering artifact of coplanar surfaces (means, of triangles located in exactly the same plane and overlapping each other).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It can happen in OpenSCAD's preview mode when doing a &lt;code&gt;difference()&lt;/code&gt; or &lt;code&gt;union()&lt;/code&gt; operation. In case of &lt;code&gt;difference()&lt;/code&gt;, the rendering artifacts can prevent seeing into a hole in the object. The &amp;quot;compile and render&amp;quot; mode in OpenSCAD does not have z-fighting issues. But since it can take some time to render an object in that mode, it is not a practical solution during development.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How best to avoid z-fighting?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the answer involves changes to my OpenSCAD code, I would love to see an idiomatic answer / established convention of OpenSCAD coders, if that exists.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2463" LastEditorUserId="2463" LastEditDate="2021-07-25T21:21:22.583" LastActivityDate="2021-07-25T21:21:22.583" Title="How to prevent z-fighting in OpenSCAD?" Tags="|openscad|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9795" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9794" CreationDate="2019-04-26T17:56:10.070" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;The general advice in the OpenSCAD community is to &quot;extend your cuts and embed your joins&quot; (&lt;a href=&quot;http://forum.openscad.org/id-tp20439p20460.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;source&lt;/a&gt;). The rendering artifacts are one thing but rather just an annoyance; however z-fighting can also cause unexpected errors during STL export (I did not experience that myself so far, just read this somewhere).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So you would change the dimensions of your objects very slightly (&lt;code&gt;0.01&lt;/code&gt; mm works fine) so that:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;for a &lt;code&gt;union()&lt;/code&gt;, there is overlap volume between the parts &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;for a &lt;code&gt;difference()&lt;/code&gt;, the intersector has volume both inside and outside of the intersected part&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now you could adjust both the size &lt;em&gt;and&lt;/em&gt; position of your parts to keep the mathematically exact dimensions for the resulting part. But I found that for the purposes of 3D printing, such accuracy is not worth it because it complicates the formulas so much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Instead, I adjust &lt;em&gt;either&lt;/em&gt; position or size of a part, depending on what is simpler in each case. A measure in the final design will be off by 0.01 mm, which does not matter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And I keep the 0.01 mm offset in a variable called &lt;code&gt;nothing&lt;/code&gt; (picked that up somewhere and liked it …). This keeps the calculations intuitively understandable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Example&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To create a cylinder and cut a hole to half of its depth, I would do this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;//!OpenSCAD&#xA;nothing=0.01;&#xA;height=40;&#xA;&#xA;difference(){&#xA;    cylinder(h=height, r=20, center=true);&#xA;&#xA;    translate([0, 0, height/4 + &lt;b&gt;nothing&lt;/b&gt;]) &#xA;        cylinder(h=height/2, r=15, center=true);&#xA;}&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now the hole is &lt;code&gt;nothing=0.01&lt;/code&gt; less deep than half of the cylinder – that's the inaccuracy I accept.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;(Note: If you don't have OpenSCAD installed, you can also try the above code online by copy &amp;amp; pasting it into &lt;a href=&quot;https://openjscad.org/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;OpenJSCAD&lt;/a&gt;. Include the magic comment in the first line to switch it to OpenSCAD syntax.)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2463" LastEditorUserId="2463" LastEditDate="2019-06-25T15:21:12.193" LastActivityDate="2019-06-25T15:21:12.193" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9796" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6576" CreationDate="2019-04-26T21:51:16.970" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Before we get into nozzle sizes and snap fits, let's start with the bigger picture.  We need to use a common language for defining the parts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Allowance&lt;/strong&gt; is a planned difference between a nominal or reference value and an exact value.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Clearance&lt;/strong&gt; is an allowance defining the intentional space between two parts.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Interference&lt;/strong&gt; is an allowance defining the intentional overlap between two parts.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Tolerance&lt;/strong&gt; is the amount of random deviation or variation permitted for a given dimension.  How much error can the part tolerate and still function?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's use an example.  We want a 5 mm pin to go into a 5 mm hole, and we want a loose fit between them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We've said 5 mm, but which 5 mm is more important -- the 5 mm hole or the 5 mm pin?  Let's say other people have 5 mm pins they want to use with our hole.  In this case the pin dimension is out of our control, and therefore is more important for interoperability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The loose fit is calling for clearance.  Let's specify 0.2 mm so they're free to turn.&#xA;We could add the 0.2 mm allowance to the hole, giving a 5.2 mm hole with a 5.0 mm pin; we could subtract the 0.2 mm allowance from the pin, giving a 5.0 mm hole with a 4.8 mm pin; or split the difference in any way we want, such as a 5.1 mm hole and a 4.9 mm pin.  Because we specified the pin is more important, we'll add the allowance to the hole.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now that we have defined our part, let's define other terms important to helping us understand the manufacturing process:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Accuracy&lt;/strong&gt; is the maximum dimensional variation between parts. (Another word might be repeatability.)  Note that a machine cannot produce parts with a tighter tolerance than its accuracy.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Precision&lt;/strong&gt; is the size of the steps a machine is capable of. Precision is often confused with accuracy, but they are not the same thing.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now we need to understand our machine's accuracy. The printer could print the pin larger than 5 mm or smaller than 5 mm. Or it could print the hole larger than 5 mm or smaller than 5 mm. To determine the printer's accuracy, we'll need to print some 5 mm pins and 5 mm holes and measure the differences between what we defined and what we printed. The difference between the largest and smallest measurements is our machine's accuracy. Be sure to measure the accuracy in the X, Y, and Z dimensions; a printer might have a difference between the X and Y axes that would affect the roundness of the parts.  (If it's off, this can usually be adjusted in the machine's firmware through a calibration process.)  Furthermore, we should test round parts, round holes, square parts, and square holes, as each printer can be different in how repeatable those parts are.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's say that the printer's measured accuracy for both round holes and round pins is +/- 0.2 mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then, we move to clearance. What is the minimum gap between parts that still does the job, and what is the maximum acceptable gap?  As the designer, it's up to you to decide.  In this example we said we want a loose fit, so let's define a clearance of at least 0.2 mm between the pin and hole, but no more than 1.0 mm or the parts will fall out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since the machine's accuracy is +/-0.2 mm, the pin will be anywhere between 5.2 mm and 4.8 mm.  The hole must therefore be the maximum pin size, 5.2 mm, &lt;em&gt;plus&lt;/em&gt; clearance &lt;em&gt;plus&lt;/em&gt; the accuracy of the hole.  That gives the hole dimension as 5.6 mm +/-0.2 mm. The minimum tolerance condition would be a minimum-sized hole (5.4 mm) and a maximum-sized pin (5.2 mm), giving a 0.2 mm clearance; the maximum tolerance would be a maximum-sized hole (5.8 mm) and a minimum-sized pin (4.8 mm) giving a 1.0 mm clearance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that a clearance of 1.0 mm is really sloppy.  It might be way too loose for our application. We might think to tighten the tolerances to 0.05 mm in order to reduce the clearance. But we've noted that a machine can't produce a tolerance tighter than its accuracy.  If the printer can't produce a part that meets our specified tolerances, we would need to find a different way to manufacture or finish the parts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the metalworking world, a common way to do this is to specify the parts to be initially manufactured with intentionally maximal material.  This lets us start with a smaller hole and use a bore or a drill bit to open it up to a more precise and round hole.  We can do the same thing with a pin, by starting with a thicker rod and turning or grinding it down to make it more smooth and round.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the FDM 3D printing world, we can do the same kind of thing at the workbench.  First, print the parts with an extra wall layer (or two). The extra thickness gives more material to remove while drilling it out, or grinding it down, without weakening the part too badly.  After printing, run a drill bit through the hole to clean it up.  Or spin the pin in a drill motor's chuck and grind it down with a loop of sandpaper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, any time you add a finishing operation, it's more labor-intensive and therefore more expensive.  So this isn't something we want to do on every part, but we can consider it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Notice that when you define parts this way you aren't starting with the nozzle diameter or layer height.  Instead, you're allowing the nozzle diameter, layer height, belt stretch, and the sum of all the causes of variations to show up in the measured accuracy of the machine.  Smaller nozzles, thinner layers, heated beds, slower speeds, or cooling fans may each contribute to improved accuracy, allowing you to print parts with tighter tolerances. But to make successful prints you need to factor in the cumulative impact of all the machine's options.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you've got the terminology, it will be much more clear how to factor in an allowance for half the width of the extruded material, which is a function of nozzle width, extrusion rate, and layer height.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7197" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2022-10-29T15:16:59.837" LastActivityDate="2022-10-29T15:16:59.837" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9797" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8682" CreationDate="2019-04-26T22:19:07.760" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Normally, such patterns are caused by too close printing to the bed (nozzle to bed distance too small), but considering the not fully flattened out extrusion lines (on glass I get a mirror shine fully closed surface) this does not seem to be the reason; you could try to increase the gap a little, in Ultimaker Cura this is very easily done with the Z Offset Setting plugin. Alternatively, you could use a little thicker paper to calibrate the bed levelling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2019-04-26T22:19:07.760" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9799" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="740" CreationDate="2019-04-27T00:48:14.953" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recommend Fusion 360 as it is free to use, full of tutorials and is super simple.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16291" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2019-04-27T06:23:24.117" LastActivityDate="2019-04-27T06:23:24.117" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9800" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="740" CreationDate="2019-04-27T06:36:23.453" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.blender.org&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Blender&lt;/a&gt; is a free professional level application, where maths isn't particularly necessary but can be used to good effect, and its &lt;em&gt;minimum&lt;/em&gt; requirements aren't all that excessive (my copy of Blender runs on a maxed out 20 year old Dell 380):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Minimum (basic usage) hardware&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;32-bit dual core 2&amp;nbsp;GHz CPU with SSE2 support.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;2 GB RAM&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;24 bits 1280×768 display&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Mouse or trackpad&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;OpenGL 2.1 compatible graphics with 512 MB RAM&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Recommended hardware&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;64-bit quad core CPU&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;8 GB RAM&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Full HD display with 24 bit colour&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Three button mouse&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;OpenGL 3.2 compatible graphics with 2 GB RAM&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Optimal (production-grade) hardware&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;64-bit eight core CPU&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;16 GB RAM&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Two full HD displays with 24 bit colour&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Three button mouse and graphics tablet&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Dual OpenGL 3.2 compatible graphics cards with 4 GB RAM&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you like coding, then Python and C libraries are available as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, there is a &lt;a href=&quot;https://blender.stackexchange.com&quot;&gt;StackExchange site dedicated to Blender&lt;/a&gt;, which is useful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a comparison, from &lt;a href=&quot;https://all3dp.com/1/best-free-3d-modeling-software-3d-cad-3d-design-software/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Best 3D Design/3D Modeling Software 2019 (15 of 30 are Free)&lt;/a&gt;, this comparative list could be useful&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Name            Level             OS                                           Price                                Formats&#xA;3D Slash       Beginner        Windows, Mac, Linux, Raspberry Pi or Browser    Free, 24&lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$/year Premium               3dslash, obj, stl&#xA;LibreCAD       Beginner        Windows, macOS and Linux	                       Free                                 dxf, dwg&#xA;Photoshop CC   Beginner        Windows and Mac	                               142€/year                            3ds, dae, kmz, obj, psd, stl, u3d&#xA;SculptGL       Beginner	       Browser	                                       Free                                 obj, ply, sgl, stl&#xA;SelfCAD	       Beginner        Browser	                                       Free 30-day trial, 9.99$&lt;/span&gt;/month       stl, mtl, ply, dae, svg&#xA;TinkerCAD      Beginner        Browser                                         Free                                 123dx, 3ds, c4d, mb, obj, svg, stl&#xA;Clara.io       Intermediate    Browser                                         Free, Premium from 100&lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$/year         3dm, 3ds, cd, dae, dgn, dwg, emf, fbx, gf, gdf, gts, igs, kmz, lwo, rws, obj, off, ply, pm, sat, scn, skp, slc, sldprt, stp, stl, x3dv, xaml, vda, vrml, x_t, x, xgl, zpr&#xA;DesignSpark    Intermediate    Windows	                                       Freemium, 835$&lt;/span&gt; (All Addons)             rsdoc, dxf, ecad, idf, idb, emn, obj, skp, STL, iges, step&#xA;FreeCAD        Intermediate    Windows, Mac and Linux                          Free                                 step, iges, obj, stl, dxf, svg, dae, ifc, off, nastran, Fcstd&#xA;MakeHuman      Intermediate    Windows, Mac, Linux                             Free                                 dae, fbx, obj, STL&#xA;Meshmixer      Intermediate    Windows, Mac and Linux                          Free                                 amf, mix, obj, off, stl&#xA;MoI            Intermediate    Windows and Mac                                 266€                                 3ds, 3dm, dxf, fbx, igs, lwo, obj, skp, stl, stp and sat&#xA;nanoCAD        Intermediate    Windows                                         Freemium, 180&lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$/year                  sat, step, igs, iges, sldprt, STL, 3dm, dae, dfx, dwg, dwt, pdf, x_t, x_b, xxm_txt, ssm_bin&#xA;OpenSCAD       Intermediate    Windows, Mac and Linux	                       Free                                 dxf, off, stl&#xA;Sculptris      Intermediate    Windows and Mac	                               Free                                 obj, goz&#xA;SketchUp       Intermediate    Windows and Mac	                               Free, 240$&lt;/span&gt; Pro                       dwg, dxf, 3ds, dae, dem, def, ifc, kmz, stl&#xA;3ds Max        Professional    Windows                                         1505&lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$/year, Edu. licenses av.        stl, 3ds, ai, abc, ase, asm, catproduct, catpart, dem, dwg, dxf, dwf, flt, iges, ipt, jt, nx, obj, prj, prt, rvt, sat, skp, sldprt, sldasm, stp, vrml, w3d xml&#xA;AutoCAD        Professional    Windows and Mac	                               1575$&lt;/span&gt;/year                           dwg, dxf, pdf&#xA;Blender        Professional    Windows, Mac and Linux                          Free                                 3ds, dae, fbx, dxf, obj, x, lwo, svg, ply, stl, vrml, vrml97, x3d&#xA;Cinema 4D      Professional    Windows, macOS                                  3695&lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$                                3ds, dae, dem, dxf, dwg, x, fbx, iges, lwf, rib, skp, stl, wrl, obj&#xA;modo           Professional    Windows, macOS, Linux	                       1799$&lt;/span&gt;                                lwo, abc, obj, pdb, 3dm, dae, fbx, dxf, x3d, geo, stl&#xA;Mudbox         Professional    Windows and Mac                                 85€/year                             fbx, mud, obj&#xA;Onshape        Professional    Windows, Mac, Linux, iOS, Android               2400€/year, free and price reduced business version available    sat, step, igs, iges, sldprt, stl, 3dm, dae, dfx, dwg, dwt, pdf, x_t, x_b, xxm_txt, ssm_bin&#xA;Poser          Professional    Windows, Mac                                    Standard 129.99&lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$, Pro 349.99$&lt;/span&gt;        cr2, obj, pz2&#xA;Rhino3D        Professional    Windows and Mac                                 495€ Educational, 995€ Commercial    3dm, 3ds, cd, dae, dgn, dwg, emf, fbx, gf, gdf, gts, igs, kmz, lwo, rws, obj, off, ply, pm, sat, scn, skp, slc, sldprt, stp, stl, x3dv, xaml, vda, vrml, x_t, x, xgl, zpr&#xA;ZBrush         Professional    Windows and Mac                                 400€ Educational, 720€ Single User   dxf, goz, ma, obj, stl, vrml, x3d&#xA;CATIA          Industrial      Windows                                         7180€; Edu. licenses av.             3dxml, catpart, igs, pdf, stp, stl, vrml&#xA;Fusion 360     Industrial      Windows and Mac                                 499.80€/year, Edu. licenses av.      catpart, dwg, dxf, f3d, igs, obj, pdf, sat, sldprt, stp&#xA;Inventor       Industrial      Windows and Mac                                 1935$/year                           3dm, igs, ipt, nx, obj, prt, rvt, sldprt, stl, stp, x_b, xgl&#xA;Solidworks     Industrial      Windows                                         9950€, Edu. licenses available       3dxml, 3dm, 3ds, 3mf, amf, dwg, dxf, idf, ifc, obj, pdf, sldprt, stp, stl, vrml&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4762" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2019-04-27T07:46:53.930" LastActivityDate="2019-04-27T07:46:53.930" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9801" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8750" CreationDate="2019-04-27T09:05:57.220" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Issue was with PID tuning nothing to do with the hardware. I switched to a duet wifi and used the auto tuning of the reprap firmware and now it is just working beautifully. I guess I was doing the manually tuning in such a bad way and the auto tuning on marlin was not working correctly for me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15049" LastActivityDate="2019-04-27T09:05:57.220" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9803" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9792" CreationDate="2019-04-27T10:48:57.130" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're just starting out then Tinkercad (website) is a good place to start designing your own objects. Later you can get to grips with OpenScad for more complex shapes. Both are free.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16277" LastActivityDate="2019-04-27T10:48:57.130" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9804" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9805" CreationDate="2019-04-27T20:12:39.200" Score="2" ViewCount="110" Body="&lt;p&gt;I own a Geeetech i3 Pro W and I started printing today. Amazing how it works.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I just recognized while printing my first bigger model something very strange: At the beginning some parts are missing and there are huge holes. However when I keep it printing the following layers &quot;fix&quot; the issue. I'm wondering what I'm doing wrong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I almost forgot to mention that I think I'm using that PLA, the bed has a temperature of 60&amp;nbsp;°C and the extruder 200&amp;nbsp;°C.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are two pictures after about 1 layer and after about 4 layers:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HSD7N.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HSD7N.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;first layer&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Qqprz.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Qqprz.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;fourth layer&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13891" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-04-27T23:16:20.383" LastActivityDate="2019-04-28T10:53:53.717" Title="The first layers while printing look strange" Tags="|prusa-i3|quality|geeetech|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9805" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9804" CreationDate="2019-04-27T23:30:35.490" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;From the first layer image it can be seen that your nozzle to bed distance is just too large:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the lines of deposited filament e.g. in the brim are not touching,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;deposited filament lines are not &quot;squished&quot; or &quot;flattened&quot; to the build plate,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;filament is cutting off corners as it is dragged while being hot and not stuck to the bed,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;filament leaves the nozzle in &quot;blobs&quot;; it sort of free flows from the nozzle as the bed is too far to give resistance.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Use the plain paper technique while levelling the bed. The paper should give a slight drag/resistance when pulled/pushed. Proper levelling and a proper nozzle to bed distance for the first layer are essential for successful prints. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is also an option to integrally lower the print level in the slicer software, but it is advised to properly level the bed (hardware solution) instead of using software tricks to sort out the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-04-28T10:53:53.717" LastActivityDate="2019-04-28T10:53:53.717" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9807" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9810" CreationDate="2019-04-29T00:55:38.327" Score="4" ViewCount="2053" Body="&lt;p&gt;The original bed surface of my Ender 3 has become brittle and finally cracked, requiring replacement. I'm trying to figure out what the cause might have been to avoid it happening again. It seems to have started after using &quot;flex PLA&quot;, which involves both high temperatures (225&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C) and plasticizers mixed in the PLA. Could either of these have contributed to the problem? I'm not sure what material the bed surface is - it's the new one that's removable and held on by clips. If it's PEI, the glass transition temperature is supposedly 217&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C, just above what I use for normal PLA but well below what I'm using for the flex, so perhaps that's the cause?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Image of the damage: &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wXWW4.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Image of the damage&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-04-29T04:50:11.407" LastActivityDate="2019-04-29T21:22:08.887" Title="Damage to bed surface from heat or chemical or..?" Tags="|creality-ender-3|material|bed|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9808" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-04-29T03:03:33.663" Score="3" ViewCount="2183" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've seen questions about (like &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/q/2670/11157&quot;&gt;What is stopping us from mixing 3d filament colors in an Extruder?&lt;/a&gt;) and some solutions for mixing filament colors/materials at print time for multi-color printing, but my question is different: Are there any (affordable) commercially available devices, or DIY/homebrew solutions, for taking 2 or more 1.75&amp;nbsp;mm filaments, mixing them in proportion, and extruding back as 1.75&amp;nbsp;mm filament for use in a printer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In principle it should just take N extruder drives fed a the right proportional rates, one of the multi-input hotends, a 1.75&amp;nbsp;mm extrusion nozzle, and another drive to pull the extruded filament at the right rate to keep the diameter stable. But I'm curious if anyone's tried and tuned this. Another approach might be taking a hotend made for 3 mm filament, drilling the nozzle orifice out to 1.75 mm, and feeding 3 pieces of 1.75 mm filament into it at once (size seems to match pretty closely).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My interest in this is that I mostly print small things, and it takes months to go through even a single kg of filament, so it's impractical to buy and keep around a bunch of different colors. I'd also like to be able to experiment with mixing flex PLA and plain PLA to get a material with a lot less plasticizer, so that it's not flexible, just less brittle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Shredding into pellets and measuring out ratios is too much overhead to make it worth it. The key part of the question is doing it direct from filament to filament.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2019-04-30T04:46:09.987" LastActivityDate="2019-05-21T15:26:47.487" Title="Filament mixer?" Tags="|extruder|color|filament-production|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9809" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9807" CreationDate="2019-04-29T06:17:38.200" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The material used for the Build surface is not PEI but a BuildTak Clone that offers adhesion through a rough surface texture. I do not know what exactly is in the composition of the polymer, but I can say that my bed surface needed replacement about 9 months after purchase after I vigorously removed a piece I printed. As a matter of fact, most build surfaces - even PEI - are pretty much going to wear out over time and need occasional replacement. Luckily, a build surface isn't expensive usually.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To prolong the life of the bed surface, I suggest:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;check the nozzle distance to the bed, as printing too close can make plastic residue extremely hard to remove.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;be very careful when using sharp tools to remove parts - don't let a corner bite into the surface!&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;don't use a soldering iron or hot air gun on the build platform to remove stuck parts, you'll melt the surface and degrade it&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;clean the surface at times.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, replacing the bed is easy enough, as I found out &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/7960/how-to-clean-up-my-buildpate-for-a-new-build-surface&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2019-04-29T21:22:08.887" LastActivityDate="2019-04-29T21:22:08.887" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9810" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9807" CreationDate="2019-04-29T06:34:36.793" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The build surface on the Ender3 is a BuildTak clone. The picture is a bit unclear, but given my experience with BuildTak (clones) this certainly damage because of heat. You can, as suggested before, replace the bed surface, but I do not think it is necessary at this stage. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Normally these surfaces do not get damaged that easily but to prolong the life try to keep the following points in mind:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Correct height between nozzle and bed.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Don't let the nozzle heat up/cool down close to the bed (for example after a failed first layer).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When using sharp tools to remove prints be careful nut to dig into the surface.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Don't use too high of a bed temperature (my BuildTak clone once had bubbles forming because the layers separated)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Clean/degrease the bed, although this is more to ensure proper bed adhesion.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I found out that if the bed stops sticking you can revive it by sanding it a bit.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12934" LastActivityDate="2019-04-29T06:34:36.793" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9811" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9808" CreationDate="2019-04-29T06:34:59.673" Score="0" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Making your own filament&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Theoretically, this could be done with any filament producing equipment by taking the two filaments and shredding them into pellets and feeding them to the machine in the right mix for the color you want. Industrial setups like a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.filabot.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Filabot&lt;/a&gt; are heavy, large and expensive though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Luckily, hobbyist filament making setups exist. They vary in price and quality but can achieve ok to good results, if you tinker with them a little. Among the kits that I have seen to work is the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.filastruder.com/collections/filastruders-accessories&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Filastruder&lt;/a&gt;, but there are also &lt;a href=&quot;https://all3dp.com/make-low-cost-filament-extruder/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;DIY instructables&lt;/a&gt; that cost less than 200 $.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Obtaining pellets&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are good with mechanics, you might design a feed mechanism that pushes the part filaments with known feed rate into a cutter to pelletize the filament in the wanted amounts to each other, creating a homogenous mix over the length of the filament.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Blended waste&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As an alternative to self-made pellets to mix in the hopper for the filament maker, one can use shredded waste prints/support structures. After smashing the material to rough chunks, using a blender to gain evenly sized small chunks of 1-2 mm, the stuff should be small enough to feed through the hopper without a problem. the blender also would take care of proper mixing and could take raw filament to mix with &lt;em&gt;used&lt;/em&gt; ones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Mixing in the hotend&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mixing filaments in the hotend would need a specialized hotend with two feed ends into the melt zone and two extruders that push the filaments with the same feed rate. The modification of the feeding system would be extensive and demand a custom firmware.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Splicing filaments&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another possibility would be a machine that splices the filament in a defined manner. One machine that might be able to do this seems to be the Palette 2 by Mosaic, but it costs (April 2019) round 600 USD. Another possibility could be to use the multi-material upgrade of a Prusa i3 Mk3.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This would generate however a non-homogenous mix of the filaments, the transition zones changing from high concentrations of material A to high concentrations of material B whenever the materials swap. Even with very short areas of spliced material the mix will be inconsistent. With colored filaments, this could generate a rainbow pattern.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:29:41.667" LastActivityDate="2019-04-29T21:15:43.340" CommentCount="12" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9816" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3738" CreationDate="2019-04-29T15:21:45.350" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Can a 3D model of a copyrighted work be rendered legally without&#xA;  infringement?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The answer is yes, but only if you have the copyright holder's permission. Copyright covers intellectual property; the intangible. Patent covers material things; things you can build or invent. Trademark covers a logo, stamp, flag or other means by which an entity can be distinguished from others. If an artist draws mickey mouse because the design of that character is also use as the trademark of a corporation that could be a trademark violation. If you produce a physical form of a 3d model with a 3d printer, the process leaves marks on the output that would make is visually dissimilar to the original. However if it functions like the original was intended, then you could have a patent violation (as opposed to copyright). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In short creating a &quot;sculpture&quot; of from a copyrighted work would be infringing, just as taking a photo of a sculpture would be infringing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://cjam.info/en/copyright-and-taking-pictures-of-sculptures-2/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://cjam.info/en/copyright-and-taking-pictures-of-sculptures-2/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12857" LastActivityDate="2019-04-29T15:21:45.350" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9817" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8386" CreationDate="2019-04-29T19:45:24.703" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Without more information it is hard to be certain; but, the most likely cause is that the board was installed backwards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looking at the photo, the damage on both boards seem to be centered around pin 20 and 21 of the driver IC.  A &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.pololu.com/product/2133&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;schematic of a similar board&lt;/a&gt; shows these are both 5V inputs (DIR and *ENBL). These signals connect to the top and bottom pins of the left connector to the RAMPS.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since these are inputs, the most likely cause of a damage to these would be a high current over-voltage condition that caused the upper protection in the IC to conduct.  This would require &gt;5.5V and a lot of current.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The RAMPS board routes these signals to I/O pins on the ATMEGA processor - see &lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/mediawiki/images/f/f6/RAMPS1.4schematic.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;RAMPS Schematic&lt;/a&gt;.  These can't easily go above 5V without blowing out the ATMEGA and they are not generally high enough current to cause the damage you see.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The most likely high current and voltage would be the 12V motor supply line (VMM).  This comes into the board on the top pin of the right RAMPS connector.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Accidentally installing it 180 degrees (which is super easy to do since the connector is not keyed) would connect the 12V VMM to IC pin 20 instead and you would likely see the same burn mark you see on your board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A better board design would have been to key the connectors by using two sizes and/or cutting a pin so it couldn't get plugged in backwards - but they didn't.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6417" LastActivityDate="2019-04-29T19:45:24.703" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9818" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="216" CreationDate="2019-04-29T21:28:57.950" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have 2 suggestions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, get better glass. high quality &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Borosilicate_glass&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;borosilicate plate glass&lt;/a&gt; at least 3&amp;nbsp;mm thick should shrug off even scraping with a razor. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second, don't scrape it with a razor, put the whole thing in the freezer (or fridge, or in front of a fan, wherever), borosilicate is known for having a very low thermal coefficient, so the plastic is going to shrink more than the glass and should pop right off&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12706" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-05-01T10:59:43.940" LastActivityDate="2019-05-01T10:59:43.940" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9819" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8020" CreationDate="2019-04-29T21:40:41.760" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a great blog post, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.evernote.com/shard/s211/client/snv?noteGuid=701c36c4-ddd5-4669-a482-953d8924c71d&amp;amp;noteKey=1ef992988295487c98c268dcdd2d687e&amp;amp;sn=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.evernote.com%2Fshard%2Fs211%2Fsh%2F701c36c4-ddd5-4669-a482-953d8924c71d%2F1ef992988295487c98c268dcdd2d687e&amp;amp;title=Taxonomy%2Bof%2BZ%2Baxis%2Bartifacts%2Bin%2Bextrusion-based%2B3d%2Bprinting&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Taxonomy of Z axis artifacts in extrusion-based 3d printing&lt;/a&gt;, explaining what I think I am seeing, although I'm not entirely sure what I'm seeing in your photos.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The short version is if your z-rods are threaded in an imperial unit, inches/fractions of inches, instead of metric, you get a repeating decimal value (think about converting 1/3 to decimal), which can lead to a rounding error depending on the chosen layer height.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Without knowing how exactly you built your machine it's hard to say more but the post goes over a number of things I almost did wrong (like anti-wobble caps on top of the z rods for Prusa i3s...)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12706" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2021-10-27T02:02:31.833" LastActivityDate="2021-10-27T02:02:31.833" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9820" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9824" CreationDate="2019-04-30T02:39:39.480" Score="9" ViewCount="37974" Body="&lt;p&gt;I need to set a Z offset for the Flying bear P902. I calculated the offset (-2.98). But, every time when I try to input this using the LCD screen of my 3D printer, the value jumps to either -2.99 or -2.97. As -2.97 is just a little bit too far from the bed and -2.99 is just a little bit too close to the bed (and -2.98 is perfect), I really want to input this specific value. I have tried many times on the LCD screen and also in the firmware itself. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But, even after uploading the firmware, it still displays -2.97. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the line of code I was changing: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#define Z_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER -2.98 // Z offset: -below +above  [the nozzle]&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a way I can input -2.98?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16308" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-04-30T22:09:08.817" LastActivityDate="2019-04-30T22:09:08.817" Title="Specifying Z offset in Marlin firmware" Tags="|marlin|calibration|firmware|z-probe|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9821" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9823" CreationDate="2019-04-30T02:57:45.477" Score="6" ViewCount="1113" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure how else to describe it. There's probably a name for this but I just don't know it. But the bottom few layers came out great, but the rest came out kind of like a triscuit. Below are pics of my print and settings. I am using a delta style printer. Can someone tell me what this issue is called and how to fix it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LIC5X.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LIC5X.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YQtFj.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YQtFj.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nMsYs.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nMsYs.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EdEbV.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EdEbV.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Vph9a.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Vph9a.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MCqXD.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MCqXD.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16309" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-05-02T07:20:09.553" LastActivityDate="2020-08-13T22:19:17.013" Title="Print came out like a wafer" Tags="|print-quality|ultimaker-cura|extrusion|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9822" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9821" CreationDate="2019-04-30T05:08:54.963" Score="7" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Underextrusion.&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I suggest upgrading to Cura 3, as you are working with a version 1.5.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you print PLA, you print WAY too hot (190-200 °C Nozzle, 60 °C Bed), if it is ABS, knock down the temperature a little.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check for a clogged nozzle.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;* &#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2019-04-30T15:19:30.083" LastActivityDate="2019-04-30T15:19:30.083" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9823" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9821" CreationDate="2019-04-30T06:27:10.813" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;The phenomenon you experience is called &lt;strong&gt;under-extrusion&lt;/strong&gt;. Under-extrusion is the effect of extruding lesser filament than required for the print. The result of under-extrusion (depending on the amount of under-extrusion) can be described as &lt;a href=&quot;/q/8741/&quot;&gt;spongy&lt;/a&gt; prints, gaps in prints/layers, failed prints, etc. As the amount of plastic flow is less than required for the print, the quality and print strength is much lower than that of a normal filament flow printed part.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most severe under-extrusion is usually caused by &lt;strong&gt;incorrect filament diameter&lt;/strong&gt; setting. E.g. Ultimaker Cura (to date, April 2019, the version is 4.0) is notorious for resetting the filament diameter to 2.85 mm after you upgraded to a newer version (because that is the diameter of the filament the Ultimaker machines use) while most people use 1.75 mm diameter filament.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the settings if appears you have set the correct filament diameter (i.e. if you use 1.75 mm filament). Please measure the filament over a few meters and determine the average filament diameter to be sure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In your case it must be something else!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A higher temperature causes filament to be more fluid (do &lt;strong&gt;check if the temperature you use fits the type of filament&lt;/strong&gt; you use), so an increased temperature should help against under-extrusion (less friction for the extruder to push the filament through the nozzle). Please do &lt;strong&gt;check the extruder stepper&lt;/strong&gt;; is it skipping?, is the tension the extruder gear exerts on the filament enough to prevent slipping?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, &lt;strong&gt;blockage&lt;/strong&gt; of the nozzle; partial blockage of the nozzle can prevent consistent flow from the nozzle. It is advised to rigorously clean the nozzle (e.g. using the atomic cleaning method where you heat up the nozzle insert filament and turn off the heat to pull the filament out when temperature is about 30 °C lower than the printing temperature of the filament) or replace the nozzle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To complete the answer, another source for under extrusion that is seen from the beginning of 2020 of Marlin firmware operated 3D printers is that instead of normal extrusion (where E in the G-code file denotes extrusion of filament movement in units of length), the printer assumes it is volumetric displacement. From the Marlin menu of the graphical controller you can change volumetric displacement to length displacement by disabling volumetric flow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-08-13T22:19:17.013" LastActivityDate="2020-08-13T22:19:17.013" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9824" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9820" CreationDate="2019-04-30T06:37:15.173" Score="16" Body="&lt;h3&gt;Z-offset persitently stored in memory?&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maybe the value of &lt;code&gt;-2.97&lt;/code&gt; for the &lt;code&gt;Z_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER &lt;/code&gt; is retained in the EEPROM memory when you upload new firmware.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could try to send the G-code &lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#M502:_Read_parameters_from_.22configuration.h.22&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;code&gt;M502&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/a&gt; to the machine to re-load the values from the firmware overwriting currently stored values.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Alternative Z-offset using G-code commands&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that there is a different (and more common) solution to set the Z-offset using G-code &lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#M851:_Set_Z-Probe_Offset&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;code&gt;M851&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/a&gt;, you can do this after you uploaded the firmware to the printer. Sending G-code commands can be done using printer software and a USB connection to the printer through a so-called &lt;strong&gt;terminal&lt;/strong&gt; interface. This can be done in OctoPrint, Repetier-Host, Pronterface (Printrun software suite), and probably many more. Alternatively, you could make seperate G-code (basically text files with extension &lt;code&gt;.g&lt;/code&gt;) files with each step in a single file and &amp;quot;print&amp;quot; the files through the SD interface of the printer menu.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The following strategy must be followed to specify the Z offset:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Heat your printer up to your printing temperature and allow a few minutes for it to expand and settle&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Reset the existing Z-offset to zero &lt;code&gt;M851 Z0&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Home all axes &lt;code&gt;G28&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Move the nozzle to the middle of the bed &lt;code&gt;G1 X110 Y110&lt;/code&gt; (if your bed is 220 x 220)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Turn off the software endstops with &lt;code&gt;M211 S0&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Move the nozzle down so it is just gripping a piece of standard printer paper&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Set the Z-offset to the displayed value. E.g. if the printer displays a Z-Value of &lt;code&gt;-1.23&lt;/code&gt; enter &lt;code&gt;M851 Z-1.23&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Store it to the EEPROM &lt;code&gt;M500&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Important notice!&lt;/strong&gt; Enable the endstops again with &lt;code&gt;M211 S1&lt;/code&gt; or the printer head will collide with the bed on the next &lt;code&gt;G28&lt;/code&gt; command&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:29:41.667" LastActivityDate="2019-04-30T09:45:05.933" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9825" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3394" CreationDate="2019-04-30T15:11:46.410" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could use a hairdryer to introduce a spot-bend where you need it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16312" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2019-04-30T17:58:46.977" LastActivityDate="2019-04-30T17:58:46.977" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9827" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7695" CreationDate="2019-04-30T17:50:00.567" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;This is a work in progress - I'm still plugging in the numbers&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A couple of issues:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strike&gt;You appear to be mixing Force (effort) and Inertia and comparing them directly - this mistake seems to have come from the first link&lt;/strike&gt;;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You used 8 mm &lt;em&gt;diameter&lt;/em&gt;, instead of 4 mm &lt;em&gt;radius&lt;/em&gt;, to calculate the torque&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You haven't calculated the holding force, which would provide the holding torque required, which can be easily compared against the specification of the stepper motor;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I can't see where you obtained the value for axial force of 10 N, from the datasheet of the stepper motor.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regardless of these issues, tackling each question separately:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Selection stepper motor to lift given weight?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;First equation&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your first equation, for &lt;em&gt;effort&lt;/em&gt;, is&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$$F_{effort} = S_f+\frac{Load}{2*\pi*\left(\frac{R}{P}\right)*S_e}$$&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;where,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;Starting Force&lt;/em&gt;, from &lt;a href=&quot;https://buildyourcnc.com/FAQ/879&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;linked article&lt;/a&gt;, worst case scenario, &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$S_f = 20$&lt;/span&gt; N&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;Radius&lt;/em&gt; &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$R=4$&lt;/span&gt; mm&lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$=0.004$&lt;/span&gt; m&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;Pitch&lt;/em&gt; &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$P=1.25$&lt;/span&gt; mm&lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$=0.0125$&lt;/span&gt; m, and&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;Screw Efficiency&lt;/em&gt;, from &lt;a href=&quot;https://buildyourcnc.com/FAQ/879&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;linked article&lt;/a&gt;, worst case scenario 20 %, &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$S_e=20=0.2$&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So filling in the numbers, for 25 N:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$$effort = 20+\frac{25}{2*\pi*\left(\frac{0.004}{0.00125}\right)*0.2}$$&lt;/span&gt;&#xA;&lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$$effort = 26.22$$&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is worth noting that this &lt;em&gt;running&lt;/em&gt; torque only comes to 6.22 N, much smaller than the &lt;em&gt;worse case value&lt;/em&gt; of the starting force, of 20 N:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$$\frac{25}{2*\pi*\left(\frac{0.004}{0.00125}\right)*0.2}$$&lt;/span&gt;&#xA;&lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$$ = 6.22$$&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and plugging in the numbers, for 50 N:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$$effort = 20+\frac{50}{2*\pi*\left(\frac{0.004}{0.00125}\right)*0.2}$$&lt;/span&gt;&#xA;&lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$$effort = 32.44$$&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Again, it is worth noting that this &lt;em&gt;running&lt;/em&gt; torque only comes to 12.44 N, much smaller than the &lt;em&gt;worse case value&lt;/em&gt; of the starting force, of 20 N:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$$\frac{50}{2*\pi*\left(\frac{0.004}{0.00125}\right)*0.2}$$&lt;/span&gt;&#xA;&lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$$ = 12.44$$&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;It should be noted&lt;/strong&gt; that these values are for a force, in N, not torque, in N•m, and &lt;em&gt;I can't see on the &lt;a href=&quot;http://bholanath.in/certificates-files/linear-actuator-TDS/BH42SH47-1504LA.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;datasheet&lt;/a&gt; were you obtained an Axial force of 10 N&lt;/em&gt;. To convert these to a torque, you must multiply by the radius of the M8 x 1.25 spindle - M8 is 8 mm, therefore the radius is 4 mm, which is 0.004 m:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$$T_{raise} = F_{effort} \times 0.004$$&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thus reducing the values for the Torque (derived from the effort) even further, by a couple of orders of magnitude, to 0.104 and 0.12976 N•m, for loads of 25 N and 50 N respectively.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, the estimated value of &lt;em&gt;worst case&lt;/em&gt; starting force would appear to be the dominant factor in selecting the stepper motor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regardless of all this, if, as you say, that the holding torque, &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$T_H$&lt;/span&gt;, is higher than the running torque, &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$T_{raise}$&lt;/span&gt;, then the holding torque would be the deciding factor in selecting a stepper and the running torque can be discounted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is unclear whether the equation that you found is the appropriate equation for calculating the holding torque. This equation appears to be for &lt;em&gt;moving&lt;/em&gt; the load, whereas you need it for merely &lt;em&gt;holding&lt;/em&gt; the load. For completeness both the holding and lowering torque values should be calculated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Second equation&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your second equation apparently from &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Force#Rotations_and_torque&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Wikipedia - Force&lt;/a&gt;, via &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.daycounter.com/Calculators/Lead-Screw-Force-Torque-Calculator.phtml&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Lead Screw Torque and Force Calculator&lt;/a&gt;,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$$Torque_{raise} = F*D_m/2*\frac{L+\mu*\pi*D_m}{\pi*D_m-\mu*L}$$&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;where,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;Force&lt;/em&gt;, &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$F$&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;Diameter&lt;/em&gt;, &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$D_m$&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;Pitch distance of square thread&lt;/em&gt;, &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$L=\frac{1}{D_{Thread}}$&lt;/span&gt;, where &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$D_{Thread}$&lt;/span&gt; is the thread density given in the table.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;Coefficient of friction&lt;/em&gt;, &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$\mu$&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whilst I can not see that equation on Wikipedia's &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Force#Rotations_and_torque&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Force&lt;/a&gt; page, I &lt;em&gt;did&lt;/em&gt; manage to find the equation for raising, and the equation for lowering, on the Wikipedia page for &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Leadscrew#Mechanics&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Leadscrews - Mechanics&lt;/a&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$$T_R = \frac{Fd_m}{2}\left(\frac{l+\pi\mu{d_m}}{\pi{d_m}-\mu{l}}\right)$$&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$$T_L = \frac{Fd_m}{2}\left(\frac{\pi\mu{d_m}-l}{\pi{d_m}+\mu{l}}\right)$$&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Plugging in the numbers for 50 N of load:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$$T_R = \frac{50\times0.007375}{2}\left(\frac{0.00125+\pi\times 0.25\times0.007375}{\pi\times0.007375-0.25\times0.00125}\right)$$&lt;/span&gt;&#xA;&lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$$T_R = 0.1848 \times 0.308$$&lt;/span&gt;&#xA;&lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$$T_R = 0.0568$$&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Plugging in the numbers for 50 N of load:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$$T_L = \frac{50\times0.007375}{2}\left(\frac{\pi\times 0.25\times0.007375- 0.00125}{\pi\times0.007375+0.25\times0.00125}\right)$$&lt;/span&gt;&#xA;&lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$$T_L = 0.1848 \times 0.193$$&lt;/span&gt;&#xA;&lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$$T_L = 0.0357$$&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;NOTE&lt;/strong&gt;: As the link to the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.daycounter.com/Calculators/Lead-Screw-Force-Torque-Calculator.phtml&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;calculator&lt;/a&gt; states, there are two different torques - one to &lt;em&gt;raise&lt;/em&gt;, &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$T_R$&lt;/span&gt;, and one to &lt;em&gt;lower&lt;/em&gt;, &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$T_L$&lt;/span&gt;. As the lowering torque, &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$T_L$&lt;/span&gt;, is &lt;em&gt;less than&lt;/em&gt; the raising torque, &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$T_R$&lt;/span&gt;, then it isn't &lt;em&gt;really necessary&lt;/em&gt; to calculate it, or consider it when selecting the stepper, as the raising torque is the dominant factor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Again, if, as you say, that the holding torque, &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$T_H$&lt;/span&gt;, is higher than the running torque i.e. &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$T_R$&lt;/span&gt;, then the holding torque would be the deciding factor in selecting a stepper and the running toque can be discounted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Amount of load threaded rod can handle?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This would appear to be much simpler to answer, as a value is given in the specifications for the rod, depending upon what you actually mean. It &lt;em&gt;could&lt;/em&gt; be:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The weight that the rod can support before slipping, or;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The weight that the rod can support before slipping before mechanical failure,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would imagine that, the specification given is the weight supported before the threads give way and break.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Footnotes&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; These equations only account for the friction of the thread and the term for the collar appears to have been omitted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From &lt;a href=&quot;https://ncalculators.com/mechanical/torque-required-raise-load-calculator.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Torque Required to Raise Load (TR) Calculation&lt;/a&gt;, the &lt;em&gt;full&lt;/em&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3G23E.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;equation&lt;/a&gt;, for &lt;em&gt;both&lt;/em&gt; thread and collar, is given by:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$$T_R = \frac{Fd_m}{2}\left(\frac{l+\pi\mu{d_m}}{\pi{d_m}-\mu{l}}\right)+\left(\frac{F\mu_cd_c}{2}\right)$$&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;where,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;Torque&lt;/em&gt; required to raise load, &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$T_R$&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;Load&lt;/em&gt;, &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$F=50$&lt;/span&gt; N&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;Mean diameter of square thread&lt;/em&gt;, &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$d_m = X?$&lt;/span&gt; m&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;Mean diameter of collar&lt;/em&gt;, &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$d_c = X?$&lt;/span&gt; m&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;Pitch distance of square thread&lt;/em&gt;, &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$l = 0.00125$&lt;/span&gt; m&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;Coefficient of friction for thread&lt;/em&gt;, taken from the &lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://ncalculators.com/mechanical/torque-required-raise-load-calculator.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Solved Example&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;, &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$\mu = 0.25$&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;Coefficient of friction of collar&lt;/em&gt;, taken from the &lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://ncalculators.com/mechanical/torque-required-raise-load-calculator.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Solved Example&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;, &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$\mu_c = 0.25$&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As the mean diameter, &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$d_m$&lt;/span&gt; is not provided, it can be determined from the pitch, &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$l$&lt;/span&gt;, and nominal diameter, &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$d_n = 8$&lt;/span&gt; mm, by&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$$d_m = d_n-\frac{l}{2}$$&lt;/span&gt;&#xA;&lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$$d_m = 0.008 -\frac{0.00125}{2}$$&lt;/span&gt;&#xA;&lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$$d_m = 0.007375$$&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The mean diameter of collar, &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$d_c$&lt;/span&gt; is not given...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Plugging in the numbers for 50 N of load:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$$T_R = \frac{50\times0.007375}{2}\left(\frac{0.00125+\pi\times 0.25\times0.007375}{\pi\times0.007375-0.25\times0.00125}\right)+\left(\frac{50\times0.25\times{d_c}}{2}\right)$$&lt;/span&gt;&#xA;&lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$$T_R = 0.1848 \times 0.308+\left(6.25\times{d_c}\right)$$&lt;/span&gt;&#xA;&lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$$T_R = 0.0568+\left(6.25\times{d_c}\right)$$&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4762" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:29:41.667" LastActivityDate="2019-05-20T11:48:40.570" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9828" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7880" CreationDate="2019-04-30T19:27:14.557" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Let's start with the stepper motors used to move the z-axis. Most printers use a Nema-17 motor, and &lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/wiki/NEMA_17_Stepper_motor&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;most Nema-17 motors turn 1.8° per step&lt;/a&gt;. For the motors that don't use 1.8°, almost all of them are .9°, such that assuming 1.8° is pretty safe for most us (if you have a .9° motor and wrongly assume 1.8°, the motor will just take two steps instead of one). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But these motors don't move the print head or bed directly. Rather, they will turn a threaded rod to lift or lower the necessary part. We need to figure out the linear distance traveled along the rod per step. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are two ways to determine this. First, we can look at the threads on the rod, and think about the linear distance traveled if the rod turns one complete revolution. Use a sharpie marker to trace a thread, and then measure the distance. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively, if we check the specs for the rod in terms of threads and pitch. Most 3D printers use 8 mm rods, but looking at my own printer these aren't standard metric threads. Indeed, &lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/wiki/Threaded_rod&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;the pitch can vary quite a bit from printer to printer.&lt;/a&gt; Both 2 mm and 3 mm pitch is common, with the number of threads on the rod varying from 1 to 4. To find the linear distance of a revolution, you multiply the threads by the pitch. A 3 mm pitch with 1 thread has a linear distance of 3 mm. A 2 mm pitch with 4 threads has a linear distance of 8 mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With either method, we know the linear distance for one complete revolution (360°). But a single step only moves a small portion of that: 1.8°. Thankfully, this works out to an even number: 360/1.8 = 200. There are 200 steps per revolution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now we know enough to figure out the step distance. The math looks like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;StepDistance = (RodPitch*RodThreads) / 200 &#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As an example 2 mm pitch and 4 threads produces this expression:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;(2 * 4) / 200&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and the final result is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;.04 mm per step&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Those values are common, but not universal, so you need to know what numbers to plug in for your printer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should also be aware that many stepper motors can &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.rs-online.com/designspark/stepper-motors-and-drives-what-is-full-step-half-step-and-microstepping&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;take half steps or even divide a single step up to 256 times&lt;/a&gt;. If you can watch your printer smoothly move from very low to very high, or vice versa, without jerking for each step, this is what it's doing. That means your printer may be able to make adjustments as fine as .00015625mm. At this point, we're down in nano-meter territory. I think it's probably best to assume your printer wants to take at least a half step when moving from layer to layer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now lets look at applying this &lt;code&gt;.04 mm per step&lt;/code&gt; value to a real printer. Please remember: this is just an example, where the .04 mm number is based off a specific rod type. &lt;em&gt;You need to know the values for your specific z-axis rods&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's say you have a printer that advertises a .1 mm minimum layer height and a .4 mm nozzle. Given the .04 mm steps, you &lt;em&gt;might&lt;/em&gt; do much better actually using .12 mm layers, which is an exact multiple of .04 mm. But then, if we consider half steps, .1 mm could be just fine. On the other end of the range, we don't really want to go above 75% of our nozzle width. That's .3 mm. Given a .04 mm step height, a better max is really .28 mm... but, again, considering half steps, we could in theory choose to do the exact .3 mm height. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main thing I want to take away here is for when you're looking for an in-between layer height: .1 mm is too slow, but .2 mm is too course. It's probably best to bump up the layer in exact half-steps. For this example, that's .02 mm increments. So after .1 mm we try .12 mm, then .14 mm, and so on. Finer adjustments may be possible, but there's a power of two law at play here, so keep dividing things in half, rather than by 10ths. If you don't get good results this way, try assuming full steps, and start at .12 mm for the layer height, then go to .16 mm, and so on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12562" LastEditorUserId="12562" LastEditDate="2020-06-02T02:46:57.197" LastActivityDate="2020-06-02T02:46:57.197" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9829" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7510" CreationDate="2019-04-30T19:48:53.020" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The color changing material used in the filament is most likely a &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Leuco_dye&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Leuco dye&lt;/a&gt;.  There are several types and some can be abrasive (just like the glow in the dark dyes); but, they aren't like putting sand through your nozzle.  Since brass is really soft, even something like the dyes can cause it to wear; but, it will take a while.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The safest bet is to use a hardened nozzle; but, if you are just doing a small print then it probably won't be too hard on the brass nozzle either.  I have heard of people printing an entire spool of glow-in-the-dark PLA with a brass nozzle then examining the nozzle and not noticing any wear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, some people like the better thermal characteristics of the brass over the steel; so, they just stick with the brass nozzle for everything and replace it when needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6417" LastActivityDate="2019-04-30T19:48:53.020" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9830" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8022" CreationDate="2019-04-30T22:23:32.667" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had the exact same problem as you. And after trying all of your ideas (Thanks so much for the amound of information!!!), I discovered that in my case, the problem was actually the printer skipping a step every other layer (at the beginning), which lead to the exact same thing, the bottom layers being &quot;compressed&quot;, leading to a lower height in general (and overextrusion at the bottom). In my case the solution was to tighten the screws that hold the Z-Motor in place (as well as printing a spacer for the motor, so that the axis-screw (no idea how that thing is called) wouldn't bend: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2925230&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2925230&lt;/a&gt;) as the Z-Motor would push itself down and lift itself up every other step, resulting in a loss of a layer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16315" LastActivityDate="2019-04-30T22:23:32.667" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9831" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9808" CreationDate="2019-05-01T02:46:09.320" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;OK, it just turned up on Thingiverse that someone has demonstrated a trivial machine to do exactly what I asked for: any FDM printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Its sounds crazy, but it works! This technique will allow you to create one offs, and to color match your 3D-prints.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It works by changing the filament (and the color) of your filament while printing, and this causes a multi colored filament, that can be printed again to archive a homogenic-color.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/b7aIr.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Rendering of STL file from the link&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Source &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3565827&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;3D-Printable Filament! -Print Your Own Filament for Multi-Color!&lt;/a&gt;, with &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6kbjZobJtbM&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;demonstration video&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm in the process of trying this and it looks promising! The filament:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aT5aP.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;printed filament&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;measures 1.65-1.75 mm in diameter and feeds and extrudes cleanly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first test print:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pICnN.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;mixed filament frog next to unmixed comparison prints&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;came out somewhat underextruded, but decent, with uniform mixing of color. Mixed filaments were white flex PLA and blue regular PLA, and the plasticizer seems to have mixed as expected too, but the print feels brittle due to underextrusion still. I suspect with some tuning of flow printing the filament, very good results could be had.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On further inspection, the brittleness/underextrusion seems to be somewhat localized, so it likely comes from &lt;em&gt;inconsistent&lt;/em&gt; diameter/density of printed filament. This actually seems consistent with what I saw from the slicer output for printing the filament: there were regions at +/- 45 degrees (+ or - depending on layer) in the spiral where it seems like wall gaps differed and extra gap fill material did or didn't get printed. This could be a slicer bug but it seems more likely it's a bug in the model, and I'd probably do better to recreate it myself in OpenSCAD...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:29:41.667" LastActivityDate="2019-05-21T15:26:47.487" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9833" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9834" CreationDate="2019-05-01T17:56:17.063" Score="4" ViewCount="353" Body="&lt;p&gt;Trying to print a 3D model for my mobile phone, but I see that when printing the sides, being thin, increases the retraction and the recoil seems a little abrupt and makes a coarse sound.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would like to know if it is possible to know what speed and temperature is recommended to print a model.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my case I use Simplify3D, and when I'm going to save the file in &lt;code&gt;.gcode&lt;/code&gt; format, I see that there are some ranges shown in colors, how does this apply to the models?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6Ysqr.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Screenshot of Simplify3D&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6Ysqr.png&quot; alt=&quot;Screenshot of Simplify3D&quot; title=&quot;Screenshot of Simplify3D&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12715" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2019-05-03T10:01:33.833" LastActivityDate="2019-05-08T02:33:41.687" Title="Is it possible to know which is the correct temperature range and speed for any model?" Tags="|3d-models|simplify3d|speed|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9834" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9833" CreationDate="2019-05-01T18:15:17.670" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The first indication for print speed and temperature should be taken from the box the filament comes in. Generally it specifies temperature ranges for the hotend and the heated bed. Sometime, mostly online, more parameters can be found amongst which is the printing speed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do note that temperature and printing speed are linked, if you want to print faster you should increase the temperature. But, if you are printing small or thin things you should print slower so that the part cools enough for the next layer. Basically, part cooling is then also important, but not all filament types (e.g. the ones with a high melt temperature like ABS or PETG) like being cooled too much. So you have another parameter to consider.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is difficult to instruct you to print at a certain speed and certain temperatures as it is highly depending on the filament (e.g. also the filament diameter), the machine type/make and model, extruder setup (direct or Bowden), the print, enclosure, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because of the many parameters affecting printing, it is usually suggested to calibrate the printer by printing a &lt;a href=&quot;/a/7346/&quot;&gt;temperature tower&lt;/a&gt; or performing &lt;a href=&quot;/q/8194/&quot;&gt;retraction tests&lt;/a&gt; to find the print window for your specific setup.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-05-01T19:40:50.693" LastActivityDate="2019-05-01T19:40:50.693" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9836" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9821" CreationDate="2019-05-03T09:18:21.843" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just to add to the already made answers:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check out &lt;strong&gt;heat-creep!&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When heat from the hot-end creeps up in the filament, it melts and blocks the extrusion (more or less severely), and under extrusion results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's basic characteristic is that the print &lt;strong&gt;starts out great&lt;/strong&gt;, and then &lt;strong&gt;some time in&lt;/strong&gt;, under extrusion happens.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The solution is to cool down the cold part of the hot-end which is usually done with a small fan directed onto the cold part, e.g the top part where the filament enters the hot-end.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most hot-ends have a heat sink on the cold part, but in my experience this is not enough and for me a fan has always been needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8328" LastActivityDate="2019-05-03T09:18:21.843" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9838" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9846" CreationDate="2019-05-03T16:20:34.980" Score="4" ViewCount="278" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a generic &lt;a href=&quot;https://reprapguru.com/collections/3d-printers/products/reprap-guru-diy-prusa-i3-v2-3d-printer-kit&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Prusa clone&lt;/a&gt; that I'm not using (my primary issue with it is the lack of rigidity in the frame housing as built). Will the motors (&lt;a href=&quot;https://protosupplies.com/product/stepper-motor-nema-17-1-2a-ks42sth40-1204a/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;ks42sth40-1204a&lt;/a&gt;) and controller that come with it be good for a large-ish Kossel? Something no smaller than 200x200, preferably closer to 300x300? How do I reason about this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also - I know the Duet board seems to be recommended for Deltas, but can I use the RAMPS board that I already have here?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't have a design finalized, but have been looking at this Kossel, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.norwegiancreations.com/2017/01/building-a-large-kossel-delta-printer-pt-1-parts-and-planning/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Building a Large Kossel Delta Printer – pt. 1: Parts and Planning&lt;/a&gt;, which uses a &lt;a href=&quot;https://flex3drive.com/flex3drive/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Flex3Drive effector&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14300" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2019-05-06T22:32:34.247" LastActivityDate="2019-05-11T15:30:08.980" Title="Can I repurpose most of the components of this Prusa clone for a Delta?" Tags="|prusa-i3|diy-3d-printer|printer-building|delta|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9839" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9840" CreationDate="2019-05-03T17:11:34.603" Score="6" ViewCount="2524" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got a printer on the way later this year that's supposed to be able to do both FDM and SLA (with the appropriate accessories). I'm interested in printing some parts for swimming pools (the types that generally cost fifty cents to make, but with markup and shipping end up costing thirty or more dollars). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I need to find a material that can withstand exposure to chlorine (up to 15ppm for the rare nuclear shock) and UV from the sun, hopefully for several years.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think that I'd prefer an FDM filament initially in order to test, but understand that FDM processes may require more post-processing in order to keep water from penetrating layers. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are some other considerations that I should be aware of? Having a white color would be preferable, but if it's available in other colors and would be suitable, it might be fun to make some different colored eyeball fittings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16352" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2019-05-03T18:07:59.127" LastActivityDate="2019-05-04T19:14:21.653" Title="What materials would be appropriate for pool parts (chlorine &amp; UV exposure) using SLA or FDM?" Tags="|sla|filament-choice|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9840" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9839" CreationDate="2019-05-03T18:37:41.670" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Have you thought about using ASA filament? ASA filament is very strong. ASA filament is similar to ABS filament (if you have ever worked with that). When contrasting it to ABS filament, ASA has a higher resistance against UV and chemical exposure. It will also have no problem with the water. Both ASA and ABS filament print at about the same temperatures. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are some links that might be helpful :&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://3dinsider.com/asa-filament/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;UV-Resistant ASA Filament: Properties, How to Use, and Best Brands&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://rigid.ink/blogs/news/175845063-the-difference-between-abs-and-asa&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Want to Use ABS in Hot Sun? We Compare ABS vs ASA Filaments&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this is helpful. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16308" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2019-05-04T19:14:21.653" LastActivityDate="2019-05-04T19:14:21.653" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9842" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9844" CreationDate="2019-05-03T20:25:15.183" Score="5" ViewCount="1235" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm wondering if there is some trick to power my OctoPi with the power supply of my 3D printer. I'm using an Geeetech I3 Pro W.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The power supply itself should be able, but the output is as far as I'm aware of 3.3 volts. Not my desired 5&amp;nbsp;V for USB, it would be a shame if I really would need to buy a new power supply when I have a strong one actually running. My current power supply causes a lot of &quot;Under-voltage detected!&quot; warnings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After thinking a little about the specs, there are cigarette lighter adapter for cars they use 12&amp;nbsp;V. Has anyone experience with using that on his printer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13891" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-05-12T22:08:32.300" LastActivityDate="2019-05-14T00:59:17.293" Title="Power OctoPi from printer" Tags="|prusa-i3|octoprint|power-supply|geeetech|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9843" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9842" CreationDate="2019-05-03T21:34:20.987" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Where are you plugging in the USB power to the Pi? If you are back powering it from the data connection, you will bypass the fuses and potentially ruin your Pi or worse. Look at this &lt;a href=&quot;https://elinux.org/RPi_Hardware&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;wiki&lt;/a&gt; under the power section:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Back-Powering; (powering the Raspberry Pi from a USB hub through the uplink/data port, single cable) Back powering is possible on the Raspberry Pi, but not advisable. Revision 1.0 boards have to be modified to back power, this is due to the 140 mA &quot;polyfuses&quot; that are installed in the USB port circuit. Revision 1.1 boards do not need modifications to back-power, they have replaced the polyfuses with 0 ohm resistors in their place. Revision 2.0 boards do not need modification, they have neither resistors nor polyfuses. It is advised that short (12&quot; (.3 meter) or less) USB cables be used for back-powering a Raspberry Pi. Cable resistance plus connector resistance can quickly reduce operating voltages below the proper range (5.25 V to 4.75 V). But do note that if you do not power the Raspberry Pi in the &quot;official manner&quot;, that is through its micro-USB port, but use any alternative way (such as through the GPIO header, the test points TP1 and TP2), but also by back-powering it, you are actually bypassing the Raspberry Pi's input polyfuse protection device! This can have extreme consequences if ever you manage to put more than 6 V on the Raspberry Pi, even for a very short period. As this causes the overvoltage device D17 on the Raspberry Pi to trigger and short the 5 V supply! Without the polyfuse limiting the current through D17, it will burn out, probably melting the Raspberry Pi's enclosure with it, (if you have any) and possibly causing a fire-hazard. It will probably also create a permanent short of the 5 V supply! So be warned, and if you use back power make sure your hub or its PSU has a fuse to prevent this from happening. If not, add your own fuse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as powering the Pi through a 12&amp;nbsp;V to 5&amp;nbsp;V converter this will work as long as the current is rated above what the Pi will use, preferably a lot higher. You will also have to consider how this option will cut the power abruptly when you switch the printer off and the Pi will not boot down properly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11097" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2019-05-04T19:09:34.823" LastActivityDate="2019-05-04T19:09:34.823" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9844" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9842" CreationDate="2019-05-03T21:59:28.973" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;What you are looking for is called a &quot;buck converter&quot; or a &quot;step down module&quot;. These literally cost about half a buck/Euro a piece. These converters convert a high voltage into a low voltage, the better ones are able to draw 2 to 3 Amps, which is required for stable operation of the Raspberry Pi.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have an old computer power supply of a decent brand (probably not as you refer to a kit/assembled printer, but added for completeness), you can even use the standby 5&amp;nbsp;V line out and switch the power supply on using a relay to short the green wire of the PSU to ground. This is how I use it on one of my printers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note to power the Raspberry Pi through the micro USB port, to not bypass safety features.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-05-05T13:08:26.997" LastActivityDate="2019-05-05T13:08:26.997" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9845" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-05-03T22:18:26.900" Score="3" ViewCount="3312" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am consistently getting these strings in the overhangs on models that folks say they are printing without supports.  Can anyone tell me what is causing them and what I can do to fix them?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've attached a picture mid-way during a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3232347&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;BB-8&lt;/a&gt; print.  I'm using PLA at 75&amp;nbsp;% speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/irMSz.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Stringing on overhangs&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/irMSz.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Stringing on overhangs&quot; title=&quot;Stringing on overhangs&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16357" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2019-05-04T19:05:28.823" LastActivityDate="2019-06-04T03:53:20.803" Title="What is causing these strings in the overhangs?" Tags="|prusa-i3|pla|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9846" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9838" CreationDate="2019-05-03T22:24:04.607" Score="3" Body="&lt;h3&gt;Stepper motors&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For equivalence, 4.8 kg⋅cm is 0.471 N⋅m or 47 N⋅cm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looking at the RepRapWiki - &lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/wiki/NEMA_17_Stepper_motor&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Nema17&lt;/a&gt;, the most common steppers are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Kysan 1124090/42BYGH4803 (54.0 N⋅cm),&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rattm 17HS8401 (52 N⋅cm), and&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wantai 42BYGHW609 (&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.my-home-fab.de/en/documentations/technical-descriptions/technical-data-for-nema-17-42byghw609&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;39.2 N⋅cm&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Kossel that you refer to is of a similar size to the Kossel XL. Again looking at the RepRapWiki - &lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/wiki/Kossel&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Kossel&lt;/a&gt;, the recommended stepper is the &lt;a href=&quot;https://ultimachine.com/products/kysan-1124090-nema-17-stepper-motor&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Kysan 1124090 Nema 17 Stepper Motor&lt;/a&gt; which has a Holding Torque of 5.5 kg⋅cm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, without knowing the exact make and model of your stepper motors and assuming that the specifications for your stepper motors given in the &lt;a href=&quot;https://reprapguru.com/collections/3d-printers/products/reprap-guru-diy-prusa-i3-v2-3d-printer-kit&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Prusa clone&lt;/a&gt; are correct, your steppers are not as strong as those recommended (apart from the Wantai). However, the recommended steppers may be over-engineered and provide [much?] more torque than is strictly necessary. After all, the holding torque of your steppers isn't &lt;em&gt;that much&lt;/em&gt; below the recommended values.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I were you I'd build the Kossel using your steppers and it might, in all likely hood, work out fine. FWIW, I have used the Rattm 17HS8401 in my Kossel Mini and Kossel XL. I got them on eBay and were quite reasonably priced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should probably read this article, RepRapWiki - &lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/wiki/Choosing_stepper_for_a_delta&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Choosing stepper for a delta&lt;/a&gt;. Whilst no concrete values for holding torque are given, this is interesting:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;A good practical setup&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Fisher, a small delta printer was designed by late RRP company. As for all their printers, they were using small and compact steppers with a torque of 2.2 kg.cm. This is lower than most repraps but is sufficient if there is no mechanical problem (friction).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These small motors have a low nominal static torque, but they also have a low inductance (2.5 mH), while due to their small size, the nominal current remains reasonable (1.2A).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;as is&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;High inductance motors&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You find on the market steppers sold for 3D printers, with a torque ranging from 2.6 to 4.4 kg.cm and a current of 0.4 A. This low current appeal builders as it make the electronic driver heating much less.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, it came at a cost, which is a very high inductance which varies from 30 to 35 mH. That means these motors are totally incapable of any speed. They are unusable for a delta and a bad choice for another printer. As an example, a 4.4 kg.cm motor wired for this low current, while having a static torque twice the Fisher motors, simply cannot reach the maximum speed used by the Fisher, effectively having a near zero torque over a given speed. Same motors with a winding giving a nominal current of 1.5 to 2 A will be more usable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Controller&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, yes, RAMPS is fine for the Kossel, although the firmware calibration is obviously different, as it is a delta and not cartesian printer. For calibration, refer to &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6798/how-do-you-calibrate-a-delta-robot-3d-printer&quot;&gt;How do you calibrate a delta robot 3D printer?&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although, as Scott Lahteine &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QJx75PWE6dQ&amp;amp;t=84&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;states early on&lt;/a&gt; in this video, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QJx75PWE6dQ&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;How it's Made: The Marlin Firmware!&lt;/a&gt;, using an 8-bit controller for delta printers is pushing their capabilities somewhat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Extruder&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not familiar with the Flex3Drive, but it certainly looks interesting. I have used the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.phidgets.com/products.php?product_id=3325&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;3325_0&lt;/a&gt;, this NEMA-17 motor has an integrated Planetary gearbox with a 52/11:1 ratio. It generates 16.2 kg⋅cm of torque at 1.68 A. I wrote a short blog about it here, &lt;a href=&quot;https://gr33nonline.wordpress.com/2017/05/09/the-extraordinary-extruder/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;The extraordinary extruder&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Building Tips&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, if you are planning on building a Delta/Kossel, then I'd seriously recommend watching the series of videos on YouTube from &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCIB6RIygkQMvwiRskL22p6w&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;BuildA3DPrinter.eu&lt;/a&gt; as they are extremely informative and helped me a lot, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AXy1OFMEUTg&amp;amp;list=PLvkxDPeJpn0WRw8BBw0L_j8BxFcuTKI8N&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Build manual Kossel XL &amp;amp; Kossel Mini&lt;/a&gt;. I just checked their website to try to see which make and model of steppers they use, in order to get an idea of the holding torque, but they seem to have stopped trading. However, their &lt;a href=&quot;http://builda3dprinter.eu/product/nema-17-stepper-motor/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;stepper motor page&lt;/a&gt; states the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The standard motor for most 3D printers including ours, the 42byghw811&#xA;from Wantai Motors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Holding torque is 4.8 kg⋅cm or 47.1 N⋅cm. Shaft diameter is 5 mm and&#xA;stepping angle is 1.8 degrees.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, to sum up, your steppers &lt;em&gt;should&lt;/em&gt; be fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4762" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:29:41.667" LastActivityDate="2019-05-11T15:30:08.980" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9847" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-05-04T02:06:13.443" Score="-1" ViewCount="562" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know of a good slicer profile (i.e., an &lt;code&gt;.ini&lt;/code&gt; file.) for Slic3r for printing ABS for a Prusa i3 MK3S printer? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16359" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2019-05-04T19:04:01.040" LastActivityDate="2019-05-04T19:04:01.040" Title="Good profile for slicing ABS in Slic3r?" Tags="|slicing|slic3r|abs|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9848" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-05-04T06:01:03.073" Score="0" ViewCount="26" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hi I'm a beginner looking for an helpful advice on how I can build a 3D printer for practice before getting an official 3D printer. If you have any suggestions/tips/info/etc. Please let me know as I will be doing more research on 3D printers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16361" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-05-04T06:33:30.283" LastActivityDate="2019-05-04T06:33:30.283" Title="Help-build a decent 3D printer for a beginner (any ideas/tips/info)" Tags="|diy-3d-printer|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="9" ClosedDate="2019-05-04T12:20:53.837" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9849" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9847" CreationDate="2019-05-04T06:31:08.953" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;ABS is a plastic type that has a relatively large shrinkage when cooling down compared to other filaments;e.g. much more than the popular replacement PETG (which prints similarly as PLA but has properties like ABS).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As of this shrinkage, it is the operator of the slicer to produce an environment to properly print ABS. This not only implies that correct settings for the slicer itself need to be chosen (depending on the brand: high hotend temperature; about 220-240&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C, high heated bed temperature; 90-110&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C, using a large brim), but also that the printing environment is optimally setup to allow printing successful prints. You should think of adhesion to the build plate, modifying parts to include so-called Mickey Mouse ears and an enclosed printer space to regulate the temperature. ABS doesn't like temperature changes as that will result in split layers. This is why ABS is difficult to print for most people, it is best not to choose this when you just starting printing, nowadays much better alternatives are available called Co-polymers like PETG.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2019-05-04T06:31:08.953" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9850" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8265" CreationDate="2019-05-04T07:33:34.723" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I &lt;em&gt;think&lt;/em&gt; that you probably need to adjust the following two parameters in the Marlin firmware, in &lt;code&gt;configuration.h&lt;/code&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;code&gt;MANUAL_HOME_Z_POS&lt;/code&gt;, and;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;code&gt;DELTA_SMOOTH_ROD_OFFSET&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6016/delta-printer-nozzle-not-moving-square-with-a-perfectly-level-bed-as-if-the-bed/6710#6710&quot;&gt;my answer&lt;/a&gt; to &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6016/delta-printer-nozzle-not-moving-square-with-a-perfectly-level-bed-as-if-the-bed&quot;&gt;Delta printer nozzle not moving square with a perfectly level bed (as if the bed is bent... but it isn&amp;#39;t)&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4762" LastActivityDate="2019-05-04T07:33:34.723" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9851" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9845" CreationDate="2019-05-04T19:58:57.773" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You did print overhangs without supports. I have printed a Thermal Detonator for StarWars day (May the 4th be with you!), which is pretty much an empty pair of domes. To ensure that the upper layers stay up, I have activated support starting at 40°, and it came out perfectly fine. Without support, the lines would have had nothing to hang on and sag down like in your print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastActivityDate="2019-05-04T19:58:57.773" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9852" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-05-04T20:54:48.770" Score="3" ViewCount="256" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to this question, &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/8256/mks-12864oled-display-setup&quot;&gt;MKS 12864OLED Display setup&lt;/a&gt;, I need to add a patch to &quot;&lt;code&gt;Marlin_main.cpp&lt;/code&gt;&quot; but this a large file with 14789 lines of code! I don't know where I have to put this patch. Please help me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;patch:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;/*---------------MKS OLED patch_3-----------------------*/&#xA;#if defined (MKS_OLED96_128x64_FULL_GRAPHICS_CONTROLLER)&#xA;pinMode(LCD_PINS_DC, OUTPUT);&#xA;pinMode(LCD_PINS_RST, OUTPUT);&#xA;digitalWrite(LCD_PINS_RST , LOW);&#xA;delay(1000);&#xA;digitalWrite(LCD_PINS_RST , HIGH);&#xA;#endif&#xA;/*---------------MKS OLED patch_3-----------------------*/&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13700" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2019-05-05T08:12:54.803" LastActivityDate="2019-05-05T08:12:54.803" Title="How to add a patch to &quot;Marlin_main.cpp&quot;?" Tags="|marlin|reprap|full-graphic-smart-controller|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="6" ClosedDate="2021-10-28T03:29:57.497" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9853" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-05-04T21:20:48.253" Score="6" ViewCount="1473" Body="&lt;p&gt;My FDM printer bed moves on the Y-axis and the print head moves on the X-axis and raises on the Z-axis. When printing rectangular objects (a model of Notre Dame in this case), are there print detail quality advantages to aligning the model perpendicular to the X or Y axis, or at 45 degrees? Part strength is not an issue and support is not needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15040" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2020-08-15T20:34:51.783" LastActivityDate="2020-08-15T20:34:51.783" Title="Does the X/Y bed orientation of a model affect the print detail quality?" Tags="|print-quality|print-orientation|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9854" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-05-04T23:30:14.220" Score="3" ViewCount="71" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have one &lt;code&gt;*.xyz&lt;/code&gt; file (from a laser scan) that I wanted to mesh and create a 3D printable file.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I saw some YouTube videos from Meshlab and try to follow the steps explained in the video, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rPEQVBhKJGA&amp;amp;t=306s&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;3D Laser Scanning - Meshing Point Clouds in Meshlab&lt;/a&gt;;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I reached the step: &quot;Remeshing, Simplification and Reconstruction I discovered that &quot;Surface Reconstruction: Poisson&quot; does not appear in my Meshlab (V2016.12).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I search on web to see if I could use another modelating method, but everybody said the «Poisson» method is the &quot;one&quot;!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have two questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It is possible not have the &quot;Surface Reconstruction: Poisson&quot; in the program (there is something I need to pay for use it?);&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Not having the &quot;Surface Reconstruction: Poisson&quot;, is there any other possibility to create a surface from a xyz point cloud?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16367" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2019-05-05T06:53:55.733" LastActivityDate="2019-05-05T19:56:16.210" Title="Laser scanning to 3D printer" Tags="|scanning|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9855" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9853" CreationDate="2019-05-05T10:02:37.317" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;In short: Not really.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;longer version: It depends.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main culprit of losing details in this case would be the weight and speed of the thing moving. So if you have a heavy X-axis carriage, acceleration and decelerating the carriage won't be instant. Same with the bed (Y-axis).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another culprit can be slop in the system, so check your linear bearings and belt tension.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also keep in mind that you are printing on the bed, so the weight of the Y-axis increases while the print progresses. This shouldn't be a problem for small prints, but if your print becomes bigger it can decrease the quality. Another factor is that every print will bend a little the higher it gets, so if you print a tall slender object, don't accelerate the bed too fast ;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To summarize, for high detailed prints:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lower the speed&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check the system for slop (tighten belts, and align linear bearings)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Take the lightest axis for the highest detail (keep the weight of the print in mind)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One thing that you can do to test your machine is to test the ghosting on each axis (&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:277394&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:277394&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12934" LastActivityDate="2019-05-05T10:02:37.317" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9856" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9853" CreationDate="2019-05-05T13:19:14.960" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm under the impression that your question hints on rectilinear motion by aligning the print part to the axes motion of the printer. So, placing it under 45&amp;deg; would suggest movement of both steppers to make a straight line opposed to one stepper movement for a straight line.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically, the weight of the carriage and the play in the system determine the quality of the details. Not how much steppers are involved to print the part. As an example, CoreXY or H-bot style printers use 2 steppers to print a straight line and a single stepper to print diagonally. These printers are capable of producing very accurate prints.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On a Prusa i3 style printer it is not expected to see large differences unless you print very fast so that the inertia or play take a predominant role in the quality.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2019-05-05T13:19:14.960" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9857" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9854" CreationDate="2019-05-05T13:28:57.993" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Same menu, different location in the sub-menu (at the bottom):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0mkem.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Screened Poisson Surface Reconstruction&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0mkem.png&quot; alt=&quot;Screened Poisson Surface Reconstruction&quot; title=&quot;Screened Poisson Surface Reconstruction&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/13841/t-m&quot;&gt;T.M.&lt;/a&gt; states in &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/9854/laser-scanning-to-3d-printer#comment16136_9854&quot;&gt;their comment&lt;/a&gt;, see &lt;a href=&quot;https://stackoverflow.com/questions/41428698/poisson-mesh-reconstruction&quot;&gt;Poisson mesh reconstruction&lt;/a&gt; on StackOverflow:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;MeshLab 2016 now uses the new version of the Poisson merging, and the&#xA;  filter is called:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Screened Poisson Surface Reconstruction&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;it is in the same submenu, on the bottom. The relevant parameter&#xA;  (octree depth) is called Reconstruction Depth. It is now possible to&#xA;  merge multiple layers at once, without flattening them beforehand (as&#xA;  before). If source layer(s) have color, the result will be colored&#xA;  too. If you want to have the same result of the old version, put 0 in&#xA;  the &quot;interpolation weight&quot; parameter&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4762" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2019-05-05T19:56:16.210" LastActivityDate="2019-05-05T19:56:16.210" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9858" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-05-05T15:08:35.647" Score="3" ViewCount="55" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Ciclop laser 3d scanner, sold as a kit (HE3D), that I've had for several months now without being able to use it, because the official Horus software is completely unmaintained and bitrotted - the API for several Python modules it depends on has changed out from under it, and it looks like the v4l2 interface (or perhaps OpenCV's interface to it) for the camera has also changed in ways that it doesn't grok. I could try to setup an outdated system or VM just to run it, but I'd rather avoid having to use it completely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In principle, it seems like you should just be able to step the stage, taking images with the laser on and off at each step and differencing them, and feeding those images into the numerical algorithms that construct a point cloud and model. Are there any free software tools that can take and process this kind of input? If so, I can handle scripting the sampling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2019-05-05T15:08:35.647" Title="Software for processing laser scanner images" Tags="|software|scanning|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9859" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-05-05T19:07:19.320" Score="3" ViewCount="418" Body="&lt;p&gt;My Prusa i3 has developed an issue. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It homes fine and has no issues. But, when I press the print button it gives a sneeze (quick screeching noise from the Z-axis stepper motor) and start to print. The only issue then is that there is no lifting on the layers when it prints! When I kill the print, it stops, lifts and goes to the home position as if nothing is wrong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Video link: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=syQpJACP7mA&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Prusa I3 Z-axis issue&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know of a remedy for this issue?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16373" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2019-05-05T22:20:07.120" LastActivityDate="2019-05-06T07:37:37.550" Title="After homing all is fine, when printing the Z-axis stops advancing" Tags="|z-axis|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9860" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6722" CreationDate="2019-05-05T19:28:19.243" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just adding another datapoint. CNCKitchen has a new &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/fbSQvJJjw2Q&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;video&lt;/a&gt; where he analyses this for cross layer and between layer tension. He also references some other research (which is rather inconclusive). He supports the coarse estimate of 'no more than 50% of the nozzle diameter, with performance also dropping at very low layer height.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;He found cross layer tension supported more than 2x the layer-to-layer tension (with a typical 3-wall, low infill pattern).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4927" LastActivityDate="2019-05-05T19:28:19.243" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9861" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9859" CreationDate="2019-05-05T23:01:56.223" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Awesome, I got it fixed!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've restored to default the Firmware EEPROM Settings in the driver program and it's all fine now. I have no idea how that got changed as I would never go mess around there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I CAN PRINT AGAIN!!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The program I'm using is Repetier. It has a Firmware configuration setting under the printer settings. The values in there was a bit odd so I took a chance and pressed the Reset to Factory Settings and it worked. There is no version number attached to the setting&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16373" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2019-05-06T07:37:37.550" LastActivityDate="2019-05-06T07:37:37.550" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9862" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9864" CreationDate="2019-05-06T00:59:38.303" Score="2" ViewCount="306" Body="&lt;p&gt;I printed a case for my phone, a Motorola G4 Plus. I found the model of the casing on &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2482011&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Thingiverse&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I just downloaded the model, used Meshmixer to check for issues, after that, opened Simplify3d and saved it for printing using an SD Card. The printed size of the model was smaller than expected.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The model designer, says in the description that he used flexible filament. Is it possible than if I change to that filament, the model result is completely different?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Print result - phone casing:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/T6V14.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/T6V14.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;1&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nDTld.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nDTld.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;2&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/S71JO.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/S71JO.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;3&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12715" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-05-06T05:03:53.440" LastActivityDate="2019-05-06T15:03:00.607" Title="Can a model change size when using a different filament type?" Tags="|3d-models|3d-design|simplify3d|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9863" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9862" CreationDate="2019-05-06T04:53:24.453" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;No&lt;/strong&gt;, choosing a different filament type will not result in a different size &lt;em&gt;(unless you use &lt;a href=&quot;https://colorfabb.com/lw-pla-black&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;PLA that foams on extrusion&lt;/a&gt;, it increases size but then again all other dimensions would not fit either as it expands uniformly)&lt;/em&gt;. The overall dimensions are defined by the coordinates in the G-code file which is based on the geometry of the model. If the printed model has dimensions that differ in the region of centimeters (like shown in your images) a different filament type will not change the size. Differences in the order of fractions of a millimeter are possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Probably the size has accidentally changed while loading the model in one of the tools prior to slicing to G-code.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sidenote; there are techniques to &lt;a href=&quot;https://rigid.ink/blogs/news/how-to-anneal-your-3d-prints-for-strength&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;anneal PLA after printing&lt;/a&gt;, you will then observe changes in the size of the part you printed, but I don't think you have annealed the print. From the link above:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;On average, you’ll see PLA &lt;strong&gt;shrinkage of about 5% and growth of about 2% along the relevant axes&lt;/strong&gt;. If this shrinkage and growth is going to be a problem, you can compensate for it beforehand during the design and printing processes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-05-06T15:03:00.607" LastActivityDate="2019-05-06T15:03:00.607" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9864" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9862" CreationDate="2019-05-06T05:41:47.407" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Of course it can change size... but definitely not in scale you've presented.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Filament as same as many other materials can subject something called shrinkage. It depends on physical properties of the material and as its name suggests cause the dimensions to shrink.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is wikipedia &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Casting_(metalworking)#Shrinkage&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;article&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The same happens to almost all plastics.&#xA;But this phenomenon is almost unnoticeable in terms of PLA... well not really...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bending is mostly caused by shrinkage. We have heated beds (among others) to prevent it. And we use adhesives also to prevent bending so to prevent effects of shrinkage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It can be also noticed when you print specific volume (and/or specific base surface) and you left the model on the HB until it cools down - the model can come off the HB on it's own even when adhesive was used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But your &quot;shrinkage&quot; is definitely not that one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1211" LastActivityDate="2019-05-06T05:41:47.407" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9865" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9866" CreationDate="2019-05-06T11:11:55.830" Score="6" ViewCount="1614" Body="&lt;p&gt;I try to print a stamp with flexible filaments. The problem I encounter is that the filament is flexible, but not soft. This leads to small differences in height to parts of the stamp not working.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One solution would be to add a small 'cushion' to add some squishyness to the stamp. I designed the stamp and the 'cushion' but now the question arises: &#xA;&quot;Which infill will provide the best uniform squishyness (in one axis)?&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did a test with cubic infill of Cura, and although it becomes quite squishy, some parts are squishier than other parts of the block.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;TLDR; Trying to print a squishy cube, where in one axis all areas of the cube have the same squishyness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12934" LastActivityDate="2019-05-09T10:39:50.470" Title="Uniform squishy infill" Tags="|slicing|infill|flexible|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9866" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9865" CreationDate="2019-05-06T11:43:26.193" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;As the rubber stamp needs to be soft in one axis for the whole area, you could use an infill that causes the same softness in all directions, but is sliced as such that the stamp experiences the same softness. Alternatively you can use the specific infill types for flexibility, but beware of the orientation:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Concentric&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cross&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cross 3D &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;First&lt;/strong&gt;, to get the same softness in each direction you need to use an infill pattern that has similar/uniform properties (&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Isotropy&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;isotropic&lt;/a&gt;) in all dimensions. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is suggested to look into the infill type called &quot;&lt;em&gt;gyroid&lt;/em&gt;&quot; (see question &lt;a href=&quot;/q/7037/&quot;&gt;What are the advantages of gyroid infill?&lt;/a&gt;). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://ultimaker.com/en/products/52762-ultimaker-cura-36&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;This type of infill&lt;/a&gt; is described as:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Gyroid infill is one of the strongest infill types for a given weight, has isotropic properties, and prints relatively fast with reduced material use and a fully connected part interior.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Second&lt;/strong&gt;, since the stamp has relief, slicing the part may cause different infill height. You could look into &lt;a href=&quot;/q/6522/&quot;&gt;Different infill in the same part&lt;/a&gt; to e.g. get a solid infill for under the relief to get a uniform infill for the &quot;cushion&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-05-07T08:53:58.190" LastActivityDate="2019-05-07T08:53:58.190" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9867" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-05-06T17:36:25.173" Score="3" ViewCount="9253" Body="&lt;p&gt;I’m in the process of installing a BLTouch on a Velleman Vertex K8400. The board doesn’t have a dedicated servo pin, so I’ll assign one. No problem there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The board only has a Z-min pin, so it’s my understanding that I’m supposed to unplug my Z-min cable and plug the BLTouch into the Z-min port.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is: &amp;quot;Can't I assign another unused pin as a Z-max, plug the BLTouch into that, adjust the firmware, and leave the existing Z-min sensor plugged in?&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Upon further review, I probably shouldn't have said Z-max, and will be more specific.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a Mega 2560 board with 2 available PWM pins. Anything wrong with this setup?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pins.h:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&#xA;  #define SERVO_0_PIN 15 //PH3 (PWM)&#xA;  &#xA;  #define Z_MIN_PROBE_PIN 16 //PH4 (PWM)&#xA;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Configuration.h:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&#xA;=======Z Probe Option=======&#xA;&#xA;  #define Z_MIN_PROBE_ENDSTOP&#xA;&#xA;  #define BLTOUCH&#xA;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want be able to keep my Z-min sensor plugged in as a backup to prevent a bed crash just in case the BL touch doesn't trigger. From what I see this should work as long as I make sure the BLTouch triggers before the Z-min. Any issues that anyone can see?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16358" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-11-02T22:08:29.443" LastActivityDate="2022-06-17T11:05:52.947" Title="BLTouch wiring and pin assignments" Tags="|marlin|firmware|bltouch|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9868" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9867" CreationDate="2019-05-06T18:17:12.653" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Note&lt;/strong&gt;: The question has changed after posting this answer. This answer answered the previous question, but is now out-of-date with respect to how the question has changed; I'll update it later, as it is possible what is asked now.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can change the Z-min and the Z-max pin assignment in Marlin Firmware in the &lt;code&gt;pins_&amp;lt;boardname&amp;gt;.h&lt;/code&gt; file, you basically exchange the Z-min and the Z-max. Note that the switch connected to the old Z-min port now becomes a Z-max sensor if you enable that in the firmware; you should therefore remove it (the actual switch) from the minimum Z position.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To enable a BLTouch sensor you require 2 pins free on the microprocessor. One registers the signal of the trigger, the other triggers the servo to stow/deploy the sensor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can connect the white/black to the Z-min signal (Z-min pin) and ground of the Z-min connector (or if pins are swapped in the firmware to the Z-max). The other wires need to be connected to +5&amp;nbsp;V (red), ground (brown) and orange/yellow to a free analog pin (PWM pin):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.indiegogo.com/projects/bltouch-auto-bed-leveling-sensor-for-3d-printers#/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;BLTouch can be operated in the following condition.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  - One I/O for control (PWM or Software PWM)&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  - One I/O for Zmin (Z Probe)&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  - GND and +5&amp;nbsp;V power&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The PWM pin should be defined in your &lt;code&gt;pins_&amp;lt;boardname&amp;gt;.h&lt;/code&gt; file, e.g.:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#define SERVO0_PIN         5 // RUMBA board&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;or&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#define SERVO0_PIN         27 // ANET board&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Z-max signal pin is no PWM pin for the servo.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-05-12T06:15:15.210" LastActivityDate="2019-05-12T06:15:15.210" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9870" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10148" CreationDate="2019-05-07T10:34:34.253" Score="3" ViewCount="1511" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sometimes I use a DIY 3D printer running Marlin firmware and I have a hard time to set my heat bed temperature. when I set it to 70&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C for PLA, after a few minutes it decreases to 67&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C and I see these error:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;READ: Error:Thermal Runaway, system stopped! Heater_ID: bed&#xA;READ: Error:Printer halted. kill() called!&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since then the communication with printer is lost, the printing process stops and I have to reconnect to serial port... It's a disaster. I guess I need to lower the sensitivity to 3 degrees at least. I don't know how!?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13700" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-06-01T20:42:30.503" LastActivityDate="2022-09-11T17:29:50.567" Title="How to decrease sensitivity to heat-bed temperature?" Tags="|marlin|diy-3d-printer|thermistor|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9871" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-05-07T19:00:38.083" Score="2" ViewCount="1485" Body="&lt;p&gt;In an attempt to upgrade my Ender 3 to &lt;code&gt;TMC2208&lt;/code&gt;, I bought an MKS GENL 1.0 board from Banggood, but it doesn't get recognized from the Windows Device Manager at all: no COM port, no &quot;Unknown Device&quot;, no beep when connected/disconnected via USB.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have some Arduino and electronics experience and having an USBasp I've decided to give a go to reflashing the bootloader, with no joy. I tried flashing both the &lt;code&gt;stk500boot_v2_mega2560.hex&lt;/code&gt; and the &lt;code&gt;ATmegaBOOT.hex&lt;/code&gt; using &lt;code&gt;avrdude&lt;/code&gt; like the following (copy pasted from Arduino IDE):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;bin\avrdude -Cetc\avrdude.conf -v -patmega2560 -cusbasp -Pusb -Uflash:w:..\..\arduino\avr\bootloaders\atmega8\ATmegaBOOT.hex:i -Ulock:w:0x0F:m&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whatever I do the board seems dead: tried alternative cables (also double checked using a plain inkjet printer to confirm it wasn't that) and also alternative PCs (all running Windows)... I believe it might be possible for me to upload Marlin via ICSP, but without USB I'll have not much use for it anyway...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It might be worth noting the board uses a &lt;code&gt;CH340&lt;/code&gt; USB chip (drivers already installed), which seems to be getting only &lt;code&gt;2.6 V&lt;/code&gt; at VCC...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When connected via USB the red &lt;em&gt;power on&lt;/em&gt; LED &lt;code&gt;D7&lt;/code&gt; turns on, but nothing else happens...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm about to throw the board into the bin and buy another one from Amazon, unless somebody has any suggestion that might revive it...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13989" LastEditorUserId="13989" LastEditDate="2019-05-08T21:19:49.490" LastActivityDate="2019-05-08T21:19:49.490" Title="MKS GEN L looks dead" Tags="|electronics|arduino-mega-2650|repair|usb|serial-connection|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9872" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-05-07T19:44:06.350" Score="3" ViewCount="356" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am printing a mechanical part for my printer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's a new mount for my extruders and I have been attempting to use BVOH as a support filament so that when my print is done it will cut down on the need to finish the part and possible mistakes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My problem is I can get the BVOH to adhere to the bed with no problem and no warping of any kind, but I can't get the ASA to adhere to the BVOH supports. I run the BVOH at 220&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C and the ASA at 250&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C with my fan at 10&amp;nbsp;% and I am using a Flashforge Creator Pro printer which is mostly enclosed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know of a way to get the ASA to adhere to the BVOH?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9861" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2019-05-07T23:14:53.207" LastActivityDate="2020-04-26T19:13:35.863" Title="ASA and BVOH adhesion" Tags="|filament|adhesion|dual-nozzle|asa|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9874" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9833" CreationDate="2019-05-08T02:33:41.687" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;So as someone else on here mention, those settings shouldn't be for the model but for the filament. Sadly, you will need to test 99% of filaments to really figure this out. I have a modify tester, and on the description it tells you how to set your temp. &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3347967&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3347967&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can look at the remix if you want to grab the blank model and put your own numbers on it.&#xA;It should be noted that things like water in the filament can mess with how the filament reacts to speed and temp. If you have questionable prints coming out of a filament that sat there for a long time. You can easily run it through the test to figure out the temp.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anything else I could add is would just repeat what most of 0scar said.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13104" LastActivityDate="2019-05-08T02:33:41.687" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9876" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-05-08T05:20:33.300" Score="3" ViewCount="54" Body="&lt;p&gt;When using a Raspberry Pi and an LCD to run the printer, can the LCD controller that comes on the printer be removed or does it need to be used also?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16397" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2019-05-08T13:24:07.527" LastActivityDate="2019-05-08T13:24:49.807" Title="Printer LCD controller required when using a Raspberry Pi + LCD?" Tags="|electronics|raspberry-pi|full-graphic-smart-controller|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9877" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9876" CreationDate="2019-05-08T05:56:00.557" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, when you run the print jobs from a Raspberry Pi, e.g. using the OctoPrint print server, you do not need the display of the printer as you can control the printer from the Pi screen or from a browser of any other device. Do note that not all functionality of the LCD controller is built-in in those printer servers, but you normally have a terminal to interface using G-code with the printer, or you can make macros to do that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In some cases it might be handy to leave it on the printer for small adjustments, homing an axis, or feeding some filament; it saves you some time opening a browser to control the printer when you operate the printer remotely and allows to troubleshoot the machine manually.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2019-05-08T13:24:49.807" LastActivityDate="2019-05-08T13:24:49.807" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9878" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9880" CreationDate="2019-05-08T14:48:36.270" Score="5" ViewCount="1889" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have seen that many 3D printers have only one limit switch for each axis, how does it know where to stop on the other end?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My first guess is that the machine knows how big the plate is, and calculates it accordingly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this is true, then if I were to use a RAMPS, I would have to modify the software to figure out the build plate, it won't have the hardware to autocalculate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14744" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-05-08T21:35:25.967" LastActivityDate="2019-05-08T21:35:25.967" Title="Why do 3D printers have only one limit switch?" Tags="|diy-3d-printer|printer-building|desktop-printer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9880" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9878" CreationDate="2019-05-08T16:02:06.097" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;In principle you only need the minimum axis position (or the maximum), the offset to the bed and the size of the bed in the direction of the axes. Fortunately, you can specify this in the firmware:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;E.g. in Marlin Firmware offsets are defined as travel limits:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&#xA;// Travel limits (mm) after homing, corresponding to endstop positions.&#xA;#define X_MIN_POS -33&#xA;#define Y_MIN_POS -10&#xA;#define Z_MIN_POS 0&#xA;#define Z_MAX_POS 240&#xA;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bed size:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&#xA;// The size of the print bed&#xA;#define X_BED_SIZE 200&#xA;#define Y_BED_SIZE 200&#xA;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do note that some printers do have maximum endstops on top of minimum endstops. This is handy in case of layer shifting (e.g. caused by the nozzle catching the print as such that the belt skips notches and as such redefining the reference frame) to prevent the carriage from destroying the printer at the maximum of the axis.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-05-08T16:42:11.703" LastActivityDate="2019-05-08T16:42:11.703" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9882" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8715" CreationDate="2019-05-08T16:10:29.437" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Update on this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Per this article:  &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/29570458&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;3D printing strategies for peripheral nerve regeneration&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a few 3d printing technologies beyond your typical FDM/SLA/Polyjet that can get this small.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Melt Microextrusion&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;two photon polymerization&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Something called MEW&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;continuous liquid interface production&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found various articles where someone &quot;printed&quot; that small, but it was often kind of a misnomer where technically something was made additively, but it wasn't a &quot;printer&quot; that you could go buy.   I think two photon polymerization may be the &quot;best&quot; actual printing method for what I want, though the price tag associated with that style of printers may be out of my range. But it can definitely get that small, this technology can apparently get down into the nanometer range.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15186" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2019-11-16T23:35:50.580" LastActivityDate="2019-11-16T23:35:50.580" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9883" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9888" CreationDate="2019-05-08T17:10:45.653" Score="4" ViewCount="116" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't want this to be a specific producer question, but I would like to know if the Sparkmaker is good enough to print small details in OO/HO scale objects.&#xA;I'm referring here to objects like furniture, and other house appliances at scale.&#xA;I wasn't able to find any visuals with very small objects for this printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5875" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2019-10-26T21:11:18.517" LastActivityDate="2019-10-26T21:11:18.517" Title="Is the Sparkmaker good enough to print OO/HO small detail objects?" Tags="|print-quality|resin|sparkmaker|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9884" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-05-08T17:36:12.617" Score="3" ViewCount="64" Body="&lt;p&gt;Running a bency print to test my new cooler, I noticed an odd effect on the rectilinear infill I'm using:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jRu4q.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jRu4q.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IhG3B.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IhG3B.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's almost as if the individual lines of the infill are tearing. The thing is that the actual print turned out great, so the solid layers end up cleaning up the mess and being good. I'm wondering if this is a matter of my infill speed being too fast? I'm running 90mm/s for infill, and the next fastest setting is 70 (i think for perimeters).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Parameters: Tevo Tornado, 1.75mm PETG at 235C, bed at 85C. 100% cooling through the petsfang cooler starting from layer 3.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14300" LastActivityDate="2019-05-08T17:36:12.617" Title="underextrusion of infill?" Tags="|print-quality|infill|underextrusion|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="5" ClosedDate="2019-05-09T07:47:32.030" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9885" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-05-08T18:10:04.783" Score="2" ViewCount="411" Body="&lt;p&gt;My voltage at the controller at max load is ~11.4&amp;nbsp;V &#xA;(heated bed + motors + hotend). Is this normal? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm measuring 11.8&amp;nbsp;V at the PSU, so 0.4&amp;nbsp;V -&gt; 5&amp;nbsp;W lost in the wires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a pretty beefy ~2&amp;nbsp;mm diameter copper wire that's ~1&amp;nbsp;m long. Its area is 2.5&amp;nbsp;mm&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;. The diameter with shielding is 3.5&amp;nbsp;mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could there be a bad connection somewhere?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Checked the wire is warm to touch, so looks like it's actually the cause.&#xA;Is this normal? Should I go for even bigger wires?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16405" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2019-05-11T00:11:27.727" LastActivityDate="2019-05-11T00:11:27.727" Title="What is acceptable voltage drop from PSU to controller?" Tags="|wiring|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9886" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9885" CreationDate="2019-05-08T18:34:23.680" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Per &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.calculator.net/voltage-drop-calculator.html?material=copper&amp;amp;wiresize=6.571&amp;amp;voltage=12&amp;amp;phase=dc&amp;amp;noofconductor=1&amp;amp;distance=6&amp;amp;distanceunit=feet&amp;amp;amperes=18&amp;amp;x=34&amp;amp;y=15&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this website&lt;/a&gt; it matches the expectations.&#xA;Using 13AWG =~ 2.5 mm^2, 18amps, 12volts, 6feet = 2meters (1m back and forth).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Results in 0.4v drop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16405" LastActivityDate="2019-05-08T18:34:23.680" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9887" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8256" CreationDate="2019-05-08T21:03:30.087" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;First of all let me state that I do not own the module! The analysis below is based on old patches that worked in a version of Marlin in 2015, and translated to the latest version of Marlin of the 1.1.x branch. This is 1.1.9; this is the last version of the 1.1.x branch, all new development takes place in branch bugfix-2.0.x (dated May 2019).&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reported patches are compatible with an earlier version of Marlin Firmware (a version from 2015). Clearly this doesn't work anymore, but that should not be a problem, if it worked then it should work now provided we configure it correctly. The display you have requires U8GLIB_SSD1306, so the U8GLIB library need to be installed in your Arduino IDE!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's follow &lt;a href=&quot;http://img.banggood.com/file/products/20161003040825SKU475616.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this installation guide&lt;/a&gt; for the older version as an example.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, from patch 1 it becomes clear that you'll need to define that you are using a display that is identified by its name/type, you should uncomment the following line in your &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/blob/1.1.x/Marlin/Configuration.h&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;configuration.h&lt;/a&gt; in the section:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&#xA;//=============================================================================&#xA;//======================== LCD / Controller Selection =========================&#xA;//========================   (Character-based LCDs)   =========================&#xA;//=============================================================================&#xA;&#xA;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&#xA;//#define MKS_12864OLED_SSD1306  // Uses the SSD1306 controller&#xA;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;to:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&#xA;#define MKS_12864OLED_SSD1306  // Uses the SSD1306 controller&#xA;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;as you are using the SSD1306 controller according to &lt;a href=&quot;http://img.banggood.com/file/products/20161003040825SKU475616.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this reference&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That is about the only thing you add in the &lt;code&gt;configuration.h&lt;/code&gt; file! You only activate the name of the controller type (as in defining a constant) so that it is caught in other source or header files to do/trigger something.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With this change, you automatically activated the rest of patch as that is implemented in &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/blob/1.1.x/Marlin/Conditionals_LCD.h&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Conditionals_LCD.h&lt;/a&gt;!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next, we need to address patch 2. This is addressed in &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/blob/bugfix-1.1.x/Marlin/ultralcd_impl_DOGM.h&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;ultralcd_impl_DOGM.h&lt;/a&gt;; here you will find:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&#xA;#elif ENABLED(MKS_12864OLED_SSD1306)&#xA;  // MKS 128x64 (SSD1306) OLED I2C LCD&#xA;  U8GLIB_SSD1306_128X64 u8g(DOGLCD_SCK, DOGLCD_MOSI, DOGLCD_CS, DOGLCD_A0);      // 8 stripes&#xA;  //U8GLIB_SSD1306_128X64_2X u8g(DOGLCD_SCK, DOGLCD_MOSI, DOGLCD_CS, DOGLCD_A0); // 4 stripes&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;which clearly differs from the patch:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&#xA;U8GLIB_SSD1306_128X64 u8g(23, 17, 16, 25); // SW SPI Com: SCK = 23, MOSI = 17, CS = 16, A0 = 25&#xA;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;as such that it uses numbers instead of constants. So we need to define these constants first. These constants are defined by the board you are using, more specifically the pin layout. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looking at the &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/blob/1.1.x/Marlin/pins_RAMPS.h&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;pin layout of your RAMPS board&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&#xA;      #if ENABLED(MKS_12864OLED) || ENABLED(MKS_12864OLED_SSD1306)&#xA;        #define LCD_PINS_DC     25   // Set as output on init&#xA;        #define LCD_PINS_RS     27   // Pull low for 1s to init&#xA;        // DOGM SPI LCD Support&#xA;        #define DOGLCD_CS       16&#xA;        #define DOGLCD_MOSI     17&#xA;        #define DOGLCD_SCK      23&#xA;        #define DOGLCD_A0       LCD_PINS_DC&#xA;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;you'll find that the pins are correctly configured with the fore mentioned:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;U8GLIB_SSD1306_128X64 u8g(DOGLCD_SCK, DOGLCD_MOSI, DOGLCD_CS, DOGLCD_A0);      // 8 stripes&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We move on to patch 3. This patch deals with the reset/initialization of the OLED display. This is also already taken care of in &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/blob/bugfix-1.1.x/Marlin/ultralcd_impl_DOGM.h&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;ultralcd_impl_DOGM.h&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&#xA;  #if PIN_EXISTS(LCD_RESET)&#xA;    OUT_WRITE(LCD_RESET_PIN, LOW); // perform a clean hardware reset&#xA;    _delay_ms(5);&#xA;    OUT_WRITE(LCD_RESET_PIN, HIGH);&#xA;    _delay_ms(5); // delay to allow the display to initalize&#xA;  #endif&#xA;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next to patch 4, in &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/blob/1.1.x/Marlin/pins_RAMPS.h&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;pins_RAMPS.h&lt;/a&gt; you see that pin 25 and 27 are correctly defined (apart from the name LCD_PINS_RS&lt;strong&gt;T&lt;/strong&gt;, now without &lt;strong&gt;T&lt;/strong&gt;, but that is fine!):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;  #if ENABLED(MKS_12864OLED) || ENABLED(MKS_12864OLED_SSD1306)&#xA;    #define LCD_PINS_DC     25   // Set as output on init&#xA;    #define LCD_PINS_RS     27   // Pull low for 1s to init&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only difference is that pins&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;    #define LCD_PINS_D5&#xA;    #define LCD_PINS_D6&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;are not set to -1, so to be consistent, you should change &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/blob/1.1.x/Marlin/pins_RAMPS.h&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;pins_RAMPS.h&lt;/a&gt; to:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&#xA;      #if ENABLED(MKS_12864OLED) || ENABLED(MKS_12864OLED_SSD1306)&#xA;        #define LCD_PINS_DC     25   // Set as output on init&#xA;        #define LCD_PINS_RS     27   // Pull low for 1s to init&#xA;        // DOGM SPI LCD Support&#xA;        #define DOGLCD_CS       16&#xA;        #define DOGLCD_MOSI     17&#xA;        #define DOGLCD_SCK      23&#xA;        #define DOGLCD_A0       LCD_PINS_DC&#xA;        #define LCD_PINS_D5     -1&#xA;        #define LCD_PINS_D6     -1&#xA;      #else&#xA;        #define LCD_PINS_RS     16&#xA;        #define LCD_PINS_ENABLE 17&#xA;        #define LCD_PINS_D4     23&#xA;        #define LCD_PINS_D5     25&#xA;        #define LCD_PINS_D6     27&#xA;      #endif&#xA;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A conclusion from the analysis above is that you enable the display in your configuration file and add the 2 values of -1 for D5 and D6, but I don't think they cause problems if they're not initialized to -1. Be sure that the cables are connected correctly. Some modules have reported upside down connectors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-05-10T21:56:48.460" LastActivityDate="2019-05-10T21:56:48.460" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9888" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9883" CreationDate="2019-05-08T22:38:35.007" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;In general, resin printers can provide a level of detail that has to be viewed with a magnification device. The technology used in the printer will limit the resolution of the printed object. Laser based SLA printers will give the smallest resolution, while LCD panel based printers can be slightly more coarse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The specifications on the web site for that printer indicate an X/Y resolution of 57 microns, which is 0.057 millimeters. One-sixteenth of a millimeter is quite a high resolution when it comes to 3D models.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to the 'net HO scale is 1:87, described as 3.5 mm per foot, a peculiar comparison. Directly related to the resolution of the printer, 0.057 mm becomes 0.20 inches approximately. I suspect that an HO scale model does not require one-fifth of an inch detail level.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;OO scale is slightly larger and would pose even less of a concern regarding fine resolution objects.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastActivityDate="2019-05-08T22:38:35.007" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9889" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-05-08T22:49:37.970" Score="2" ViewCount="696" Body="&lt;p&gt;I printed parts for a Harry Potter wand with HatchBox Wood PLA, now I want to apply stain. I intended to try MinWax PolyShades wood stain, then noticed Varathane water-based wood stain is available at my local Rona hardware store. This seems a &quot;healthier&quot; option, maybe not as fussy to apply as PolyShades, anyone had experience with this product?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10902" LastActivityDate="2019-05-16T04:00:21.383" Title="Anyone tried Varathane water-based Wood Stain on Hatchbox Wood PLA?" Tags="|filament|pla|post-processing|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9890" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-05-08T22:59:41.807" Score="1" ViewCount="340" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to print a phone case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Compared to other models I have sliced, Simplify3D implements a lot of retraction moves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this normal? How can I (&lt;em&gt;Should I?&lt;/em&gt;) reduce the number of retractions?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What retraction settings would you recommend in Simplify3D?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5ftOP.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Screenshot of Simplify&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5ftOP.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Screenshot of Simplify&quot; title=&quot;Screenshot of Simplify&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Settings&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IllZ8.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Settings&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IllZ8.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Settings&quot; title=&quot;Settings&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12715" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:29:41.667" LastActivityDate="2019-05-13T11:46:45.943" Title="How reduce the number of retractions?" Tags="|simplify3d|retraction|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="12" ClosedDate="2019-05-09T07:48:04.287" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9891" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-05-09T07:10:00.360" Score="1" ViewCount="312" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can any one help me out that how to start a cycle by just using a push button.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: Using Marlin firmware, Arduino Mega, Ramps 1.4&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I haven't tried altering the Marlin code (as I am new to coding), I was just thinking of adopting this feature as it will be very easy for CNC DIY maker using Marlin code to run a cycle in a loop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16408" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2019-05-09T07:57:52.870" LastActivityDate="2019-05-10T12:05:57.413" Title="How to start cycle by using push button" Tags="|marlin|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9892" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9891" CreationDate="2019-05-09T08:05:55.047" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Unless you know the structure of the Marlin firmware pretty well, are good at coding (in C/C++), and are familiar with programming microcontrollers, then I wouldn't attempt to do this, IMHO. Adding new features can cause a number of issues elsewhere in the code and need rigourous planning and testing as well as discussion with the Marlin community.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You &lt;em&gt;could&lt;/em&gt; however make a request (i.e. raise an issue) to the &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Marlin community on Github&lt;/a&gt;, however, I would seriously suggest posting to the &lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/forum/list.php?415&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Marlin forum&lt;/a&gt;, on RepRap, first, as random suggestions and issues raised on Github aren't really appreciated, without checking on the forum first...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you really want to get into coding, then I would suggest buying an Arduino Uno and some components and messing about with those first, as well as visiting our excellent &lt;a href=&quot;https://arduino.stackexchange.com&quot;&gt;Arduino Q&amp;amp;A site on StackExchange&lt;/a&gt; as well as the &lt;a href=&quot;https://forum.arduino.cc&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Arduino forums&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4762" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2019-05-09T08:30:50.303" LastActivityDate="2019-05-09T08:30:50.303" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9893" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9865" CreationDate="2019-05-09T10:39:50.470" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sinusoidal infill provides great squishiness in the infill direction, but you'll still have the problem that where the infill meets the perimeter wall, it'll be less squishy than where the perimeter wall isn't touching any infill. You can reduce this effect by using a stiffer filament for that wall (if you can print with multiple filaments), by adding more perimeters, and by reducing the gap between infills (i.e. increasing the infill density). You can even explicitly design an extra-thick wall on the face that takes the pressure (the engraved face of the stamp), and then a section behind that with the squishy infill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;TBH, I'm not sure that flexible filament is really what you need for a stamp. Soft materials are commonly used for traditional stamp-making more because they're easy to etch than because the stamping works better that way. Print-making uses wooden or metal plates (the equivalent to the stamp) and produces better, more repeatable images than rubber stamps. When you're printing a stamp, you don't need to etch it, so the softness of rubber isn't an advantage for you. My outsider recommendation would be to try using a normal, rigid filament, and sand the surface to the smoothness you need. If you print with the stamp face on the bed, and your first-layer quality is really good on a smooth build plate, you can probably get better results without sanding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13100" LastActivityDate="2019-05-09T10:39:50.470" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9894" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9891" CreationDate="2019-05-09T13:37:48.287" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Don't go modifying Marlin to do this unless you're using a 32 bit µC.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You're better off controlling Marlin with &lt;a href=&quot;https://community.octoprint.org&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;OctoPrint&lt;/a&gt; and writing/finding a module that allows you to kick off a print when a key is pressed on a connected keyboard or pendant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12857" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2019-05-10T12:05:57.413" LastActivityDate="2019-05-10T12:05:57.413" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9895" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9771" CreationDate="2019-05-09T14:08:19.137" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Finally, I found the solution after frying up a Mega board.  The problem is with the Mega board. &lt;strong&gt;Part of the board is not functioning properly&lt;/strong&gt; or &lt;strong&gt;not connecting with the RAMPS 1.4 shield properly&lt;/strong&gt;. So I tried with a new Arduino Mega board and it worked. &#xA;Also removing the D1 diode is the solution for the voltage regulator overheating on Arduino mega board as mentioned in question &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/3278/arduino-mega-voltage-regulator-overheats-with-ramps-board?rq=1&quot;&gt;Arduino Mega voltage regulator overheats with RAMPS board&lt;/a&gt;&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16256" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-05-09T14:47:03.630" LastActivityDate="2019-05-09T14:47:03.630" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9896" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9885" CreationDate="2019-05-09T15:35:53.467" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Regardless of how the voltage is lowered, you aren't delivering the power to the heating elements that they are designed to deliver.  For a resistive heater, the power scales with the square of the voltage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Delivering 11.4&amp;nbsp;V to the heaters will result in the power being &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$11.4^2/12.0^2 = 0.9025$&lt;/span&gt; or 90&amp;nbsp;% of the intended power.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are two things you could do to increase the power at the heaters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your voltage is starting out low, which you may be able to increase&#xA;at the power supply to 12.0&amp;nbsp;V.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The voltage drop in the 1-meter cables can be reduced by using&#xA;shorter cables or larger cross-sectional area conductors.  13 gauge&#xA;is not a very heavy wire for low-voltage high-current DC.  I would&#xA;suggest 10 gauge, and would prefer 8 gauge.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The logic in the controller board should be fine as you are now.  Controller boards include regulators that being the nominal 12&amp;nbsp;V down to the 5&amp;nbsp;V or 3.3&amp;nbsp;V required by the digital logic.  These will automatically adjust for changes in the 12&amp;nbsp;V supply.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To actually answer your question, the permitted voltage drop is application dependent.  As a rule, though, I would suggest that the voltage on the pins of the controller should be 12&amp;nbsp;&amp;plusmn;&amp;nbsp;5&amp;nbsp;%, or from 12.6&amp;nbsp;V to 11.4&amp;nbsp;V.  The voltage you measured should be acceptable if it is the true minimum voltage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2082" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-05-10T22:23:39.120" LastActivityDate="2019-05-10T22:23:39.120" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9897" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9889" CreationDate="2019-05-10T03:34:30.213" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Wood stains (as opposed to dyes, paints, etc.) work by having large particles that become lodged in the grain of the wood, yielding a result that varies in intensity with the grain of the wood and thereby brings out its beauty. It's unlikely that they will do what you want, or anything reasonable, on PLA that has wood particles mixed into it. You might be able to find some types of dyes that will work. I've used wood dyes on woods that don't take stain well and have had good results, and if the PLA+wood material consists of a significant amount of wood, it seems plausible that wood dyes might work well on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastEditorUserId="11157" LastEditDate="2019-05-10T19:42:28.863" LastActivityDate="2019-05-10T19:42:28.863" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9898" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-05-11T10:40:11.417" Score="0" ViewCount="471" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm having this stringing problem that happens when the machine moves and when it's not supposed to print that I still haven't effectively solved. I will try exemplify with the following image. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FXCZh.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We can see it leaves some prints when it's not supposed to. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know we can try to solve it with the retraction properties, but is there a way to calculate the right levels of it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do you guys do it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My setup is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ender3 printer&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ultimaker Cura sw&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;BQ filament&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Info about this particular filament, from store.bq.com&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;DIMENSIONS AND WEIGHT&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Weight - 1 kg&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Filament diameter - 1.75 mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Coil size (diameter x width) - 175 x 77 mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Spool axle diameter - 44 mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Enclosure - 187 x 187 x 83 mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;MATERIAL&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Composition - 100% PLA (Polylactic acid).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;PRINTING FEATURES&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Optimum printing temperature - 205 ºC&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Printing temperature range - 200-220 ºC&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16424" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2019-08-31T08:08:24.140" LastActivityDate="2019-08-31T08:08:24.140" Title="How to effectively eliminate stringing in 3D print" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|3d-models|troubleshooting|creality-ender-3|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9899" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9942" CreationDate="2019-05-11T13:42:51.217" Score="9" ViewCount="305" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know how the developers of Marlin decided to name it that?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16426" LastEditorUserId="16426" LastEditDate="2019-05-26T15:25:37.677" LastActivityDate="2019-05-26T15:25:37.677" Title="Where did Marlin get its name?" Tags="|marlin|terminology|history|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9900" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9899" CreationDate="2019-05-11T15:15:57.250" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, it probably is totally off-topic, but fun too, so I'll try to get an answer in, before the question gets closed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The best place to ask would be the &lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/forum/list.php?415&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Firmware - Marlin forum&lt;/a&gt;, on RepRap.org.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The question is there now, &lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?415,852947&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Why was it named Marlin?&lt;/a&gt; and I'll update this answer, if/when I get a response...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4762" LastActivityDate="2019-05-11T15:15:57.250" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9901" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9898" CreationDate="2019-05-11T17:28:24.203" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Note:&lt;/strong&gt; The image in the question was changed after the question was asked. This answer is out-of-date with respect to how the question has changed; I'll update it when more information is available.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These don't look like strings, which I'd define as material deposited outside of the model, but rather damage done by moving the hotend through already-printed material without retracting. In Cura, this is called &quot;retraction combing&quot;, and it defaults to &quot;all&quot;, which is way too aggressive and visibly harms the surface finish. Switching it to &quot;noskin&quot; or even &quot;infill&quot; only will make this go away and greatly improve your print quality, at the cost of some speed. The cost can be severe in worst case with certain kinds of fine detail, but usually &quot;noskin&quot; is cheap and suffices.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastEditorUserId="11157" LastEditDate="2019-05-11T23:34:35.010" LastActivityDate="2019-05-11T23:34:35.010" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9902" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-05-11T18:10:32.357" Score="1" ViewCount="846" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been printing for a while with a Creality CR-10S with Colorfabb black PETG economy and all was good.&#xA;Until today, where on a large, flat print (30x10cm - a small drawer) I can't manage to get a smooth first (or second) layer no matter how hard I try.&#xA;I tried so far:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;calibrating the extruder&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;setting different temperatures (range 230-240 suggested by the manufacture is 235-250)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;slowing down the print (I usually print skin at 80mm/s, I tried this one down to 40mm/s)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;installing a brand new nozzle&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;levelling the bed&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The print starts fine but then, randomly, some bands that look like under extrusion appear:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/B4cdo.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/B4cdo.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Example of banding&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a second example of the first layer - I've ripped it off the plate but as you can see the first 50% of it was fine. The problem appeared later in the process.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QpWpA.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QpWpA.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;example two&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The extruder &quot;clicks&quot;, the filament stalls and it's clear that the nozzle is not extruding plastic fast enough.&#xA;What can it be?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All other prints are fine, but I have to say this is the only one that has such a large horizontal surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16428" LastActivityDate="2019-05-13T05:20:13.697" Title="Strange banding on first layer/skin" Tags="|print-quality|extrusion|creality-cr-10|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9903" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9902" CreationDate="2019-05-11T18:56:15.167" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;i'd say your extruder driver and/or motor is overheated - really &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;according to your description - when you've printed other things it was fine but this is the first with such big &quot;flat&quot; area&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;usually extruder motor works for some time then stops and starts and so on and again so it has some time when driver cools down but here it runs constantly for relatively long time&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;this overheats the driver and/or motor then is starts to clicks as there is not enough current delivered to the motor&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;what can you do?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;try to take the cover off&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;check the driver temperature (use electronic thermometer as it can be even 100C)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;try to cool it with some kind of fan while running the same printout&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;if the diagnosis is fine - you are at home and now you know what to do ;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hsdxV.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hsdxV.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;the one described as E is the one to check and cool down&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1211" LastEditorUserId="1211" LastEditDate="2019-05-13T05:20:13.697" LastActivityDate="2019-05-13T05:20:13.697" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9904" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9905" CreationDate="2019-05-12T14:27:38.080" Score="4" ViewCount="433" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Model:&lt;/strong&gt; Infitary M508&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Details:&lt;/strong&gt; The filament is stuck in the extruder preheated for PLA (the filament is PLA 1.75 white). The extruder's motor works and the filament is in the hole of the extruder (not somewhere else). I took the fan covering the motor apart, to show what is inside, so you might see it on the attached image:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/znCxG.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/znCxG.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might also see this video for details: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R8rYGhuYWvc&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R8rYGhuYWvc&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm able to pull the filament out, when I uncouple the motor's gear, but it doesn't go through the extruder when I push it in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What can I do to fix this? Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;P.S. It's the first start of the printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16434" LastEditorUserId="11242" LastEditDate="2019-05-12T15:33:26.767" LastActivityDate="2019-05-14T13:04:46.797" Title="Stuck filament in the extruder of Infitary M508" Tags="|filament|extruder|motor|alunar-m508|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9905" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9904" CreationDate="2019-05-12T15:30:44.083" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately you're going to have to tear the extruder head apart and clean the nozzle. There are kits like the following (found on Amazon - No affiliation):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aDs2P.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aDs2P.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This will give you everything you need to clear the nozzle. The only other solution is to replace the nozzle and extruder tube. The filament is stuck in either or both of these parts. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(As an aside ... a wise person &amp;lt; &lt;em&gt;cough&lt;/em&gt; &gt; @0scar &amp;lt; &lt;em&gt;cough&lt;/em&gt; &gt; once told me I should keep extras of these parts, as well as the thermister and heating elements on hand. Treat them as disposable parts ... once they're dead, just replace them.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What you need to figure out though, is why it clogged in the first place. More than likely you tried to extrude filament before the nozzle was up to temperature. If your readout said it was good, then you need to get a no-touch thermometer and check the nozzle for the proper temperature prior to printing to ensure it's all good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11242" LastEditorUserId="11242" LastEditDate="2019-05-12T19:25:11.700" LastActivityDate="2019-05-12T19:25:11.700" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9906" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9842" CreationDate="2019-05-12T19:18:33.637" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Thank you guys for your help. I ended up with a suggested &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.amazon.de/dp/B0768D2NYH?tag=t--21&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&quot;Step Down Power Module&quot;&lt;/a&gt; which works fine for me. I connected that module directly with the power supply of the printer with a blade connector. The first startup showed me a couple of low voltage warnings, but the second start worked fine without any warnings. I didn't know how the UI looks like without the warning on the top.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I avoided that fancy and risky back powering since I power it now as intended. Now I have one power supply less which is great out of my opinion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13891" LastActivityDate="2019-05-12T19:18:33.637" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9909" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8665" CreationDate="2019-05-13T07:56:20.183" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/QnnPsoL5cHE?t=18&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Anycubic&lt;/a&gt; this printer uses the E3D V5 type hotend as can be seen from the linked video of the AnyCubic Mega:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WSL8p.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WSL8p.png&quot; alt=&quot;E3D v5 of Anycubic Mega exploded view&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cuLc1.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cuLc1.png&quot; alt=&quot;E3D v5 of Anycubic Mega assembled view&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The brass nozzle you see is fully compatible with the E3D v6 nozzle and can be found on those typical auction and Chinese websites by looking for &amp;quot;E3D nozzle&amp;quot;. They are also available from &lt;a href=&quot;https://e3d-online.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;E3D directly&lt;/a&gt;, the designer/creator of the E3D hotend family, and other specialized manufacturers like the &lt;a href=&quot;http://olssonruby.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Olsson Ruby&lt;/a&gt;. These nozzles have a short nozzle (snout) and are screwed into the heater block with M6 threads.&lt;sup&gt;1)&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/32U1im.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/32U1im.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;E3D v5/v6 nozzle&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The smaller the diameter, the smaller the filament traces and the higher the print detail resolution. Note that a smaller diameter causes thinner walls for the same amount of (vertical) walls and may require additional perimeters to get similar strength and rigidity. The maximum layer thickness also decreases, as prints with a layer height above 75 % of the nozzle diameter have very poor quality. As an example, a 0.25 mm nozzle should not print layers thicker than &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$0.75 \times 0.25\text{ mm} = 0.19\text{ mm}$&lt;/span&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As such printing with smaller nozzle diameters increases print time. Also note that a smaller diameter requires more force to push the filament through and &lt;em&gt;could&lt;/em&gt; use some extra temperature to make the filament more fluid or reduction of the print speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just buy some spare nozzles of different nozzle diameter and experiment what works best for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1)&lt;/sup&gt; - &lt;em&gt;The other popular style of M6 threaded nozzles has a long body and long taper (often referred to as MK8 nozzle; they come in two different shapes). While these might work, they extend from the heater block considerably further and might need readjustment of the heater block due to their shorter threaded area (&lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/9913/8884&quot;&gt;as explained here&lt;/a&gt;): &lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pl9G1s.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pl9G1s.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;MK8 nozzle variant 1&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/k3r8Vs.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/k3r8Vs.png&quot; alt=&quot;MK8 nozzle variant 2&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2024-01-24T13:42:45.730" LastActivityDate="2024-01-24T13:42:45.730" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9911" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-05-13T13:40:58.857" Score="2" ViewCount="170" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm attempting to replace my DRV8825's with TMC2130's on a Prusa i3 rework clone, 12 V RAMPS 1.4, motor currents have been accounted for. Since they don't work as well with 12 V than with higher voltages, I bought a 10-50 V, 10 A DC-DC converter to power the drivers (and steppers). On the RAMPS this is done simply by taking the VM pin out and soldering it on the other side to draw power from an external source.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is stated everywhere that VM should be powered BEFORE VIO. Would it be valid to switch on a relay with the DC-DC converter and connect the VIO pin to RAMPS 5 V through it? Is it enough having both sources turn on at roughly the same time? I haven't found any indication on how much time there should be in between (or if there needs to be any).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please tell me your own experience if you have attempted something similar, or any alternatives (aside from buying a new board, because I'll eventually build a CoreXY or something else) that may be valid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14965" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-03-04T22:55:11.750" LastActivityDate="2024-03-19T05:00:55.120" Title="TMC2130 External VM RAMPS 1.4" Tags="|ramps-1.4|tmc2130|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9912" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9913" CreationDate="2019-05-13T13:57:16.847" Score="7" ViewCount="5328" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is pretty much an ecosystem of two Nozzle designs out there that share the M6 thread on the coupler to the Heating block: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the e3D &quot;snub nose&quot; or &quot;shouldered&quot; design.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the &quot;Chinesium&quot; nozzle that is often claimed to be some &quot;MK8&quot; or &quot;MK10&quot; without naming what item of which manufacturer is actually iterated there.&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;They seem to be derived from the &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/7366/8884&quot;&gt;Makerbot MK8 Hotend&lt;/a&gt; which uses M6 threading and not the MK10, as that uses M7 threading.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What differentiates the two and can one swap one for the other?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2020-07-06T14:36:06.403" LastActivityDate="2024-01-22T14:57:45.777" Title="What is the functional difference between an e3D-Style nozzle, Makerbot MK8 and M6 Chinesium Nozzles?" Tags="|nozzle|e3d|knowledgebase|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9913" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9912" CreationDate="2019-05-13T13:57:16.847" Score="7" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Differentiation&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main differences between the e3D-Nozzle family and the &amp;quot;simple&amp;quot; Nozzle are the &lt;em&gt;wrench size&lt;/em&gt;, &lt;em&gt;body length&lt;/em&gt; and &lt;em&gt;thread length&lt;/em&gt; of the nozzle. In fact, I have come across 2 different &amp;quot;Chinese&amp;quot; styles of nozzle, a &amp;quot;big&amp;quot; and a &amp;quot;small&amp;quot; one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Comparison&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For comparison, take a look at this photo, where I aligned the lower ends of the bodies to line up under the wrench needed to handle them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GTqgH.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GTqgH.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Chinesium Big, Small and e3D styles&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In words, left to right:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Chinese Big M6 Nozzle - Aka &amp;quot;Creality Mk8&amp;quot;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;size 8 metric wrench, 4 mm M6x1 thread length, 1 mm clearance, extends a minimum of 8 mm from the heater block&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Chinese Small M6 Nozzle&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;size 7 metric wrench, 4 mm M6x1 thread length, 1 mm clearance, extends a minimum of 8 mm from the heater block&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;e3D v6 normal (aka NOT volcano etc)&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;size 7 metric wrench, 6 mm M6x1 thread length, 2 mm clearance, extends a minimum of 5 mm from the heater block&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To differentiate from Makerbot nozzles:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Makerbot Mk6&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;size unspecified wrench, 7 mm M6x1 thread + clearance, extends a minimum of 5.5 mm from the heater block, 12.5 mm overall.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Makerbot Mk7&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;size 1/4 inch imperial wrench (6.36 mm), 5 mm M6x1 thread + clearance, extends a minimum of 8 mm from the heater block.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Makerbot Mk8&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;size 7 mm metric wrench, otherwise as Mk7 - making this &lt;em&gt;almost&lt;/em&gt; identical to Creality Mk8 but for no specified clearance between thread and head&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Makerbot Mk10&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;size 9 mm metric wrench, 4.5 mm M7x1 thread, 1.5 mm clearing + dia 7.5 mm shelf, extends a minimum of 7 mm from the heater block&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Replaceability&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Chinese big to Chinese small nozzles in either hotend&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Due to the dimensions, one can easily swap the big and small Chinese nozzles for one another. They are virtually interchangeable but differ in the wear patterns.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Chinese nozzles in e3D Hotend&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The 3 mm shorter snout and deeper butting with the heatbreak of the e3D nozzle in its designed hotend make it hard to swap a Chinese nozzle into an e3D setup: neither does the thread allow to screw the nozzle in the right length sometimes, it also extends much further. To accommodate, the whole heater block has to be screwed about 3 mm more onto the heatbreak, then the nozzle gets screwed in. The result is equal in overall length.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Makerbot Mk7/Mk8 to Chinese Nozzles&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But for the different wrench, those generally will fit, but&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;###e3D Nozzle in Chinese Hotend&#xA;However, the long thread of the e3D Nozzle allows it to be mounted in a hotend designed to hold a Chinese nozzle without trouble - the 3 mm of difference in the body are used for a longer thread and clearance between thread and body, resulting in the same overall length without changing the mounting position of the heater block on the heatbreak.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Internals&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Stefan of CNC-Kitchen recently tortured a couple of nozzles for science and investigating wear and tear (&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uvlMeTnjriQ&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;video&lt;/a&gt;). He found out a couple of differences on the internals:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The Chinese nozzle had a non-straight pattern on the inside&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The angle in the feeding cone is 60° in an e3D and 90° in the Chinese sample&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Conclusion&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Chinese Style nozzles can be interchanged for one another. an e3D style nozzle with standard length (aka not-volcano) can be swapped in for any Chinese Style nozzle. A Chinese Style nozzle needs to have the heater block shifted if mounted into an e3D hotend.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2024-01-22T14:57:45.777" LastActivityDate="2024-01-22T14:57:45.777" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9914" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9916" CreationDate="2019-05-13T14:44:58.110" Score="2" ViewCount="117" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am not very used to 3D printers and I just bought my first 3D printer today (Creality3D Ender 3). But I am unable to assemble it. The 3D printer doesn't contain instruction on how to built it which I found very weird. I searched a couple of things on the Internet and I found this website, but after some steps I couldn't read it , I didn't understand what I was reading.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16447" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-05-13T17:56:21.297" LastActivityDate="2019-05-13T17:58:37.197" Title="3d printer set up" Tags="|printer-building|creality-ender-3|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9915" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-05-13T15:15:41.143" Score="7" ViewCount="5953" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been looking to buy a new extruder. One of the options I have seen comes in &quot;right handed&quot; and &quot;left handed&quot;.  What does this mean? How can I tell what my current extruder is, so I get the right replacement?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10422" LastActivityDate="2019-05-15T09:34:28.257" Title="What makes an extruder right handed?" Tags="|extruder|bowden|replacement-parts|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9916" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9914" CreationDate="2019-05-13T15:20:12.540" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The website you looked at is for an entirely different printer and in general.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Your instructions are in a PDF file on the mini-SD card that came with the printer.&lt;/strong&gt; The official Ender 3 support site is &lt;a href=&quot;https://creality3d.cn/download/produktdatei_c0002&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://creality3d.cn/download/produktdatei_c0002&lt;/a&gt; and it also contains the Official Assembly Instructions (to me, the lower right corner). An alternate setup instruction is in &lt;a href=&quot;https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/D1N3oS2crrS.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;a PDF distributed by Sain Smart&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-05-13T17:58:37.197" LastActivityDate="2019-05-13T17:58:37.197" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9917" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11" CreationDate="2019-05-13T15:21:00.453" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;So we know what doesn't work but what does work (but not well) is alcohol! Only isopropyl alcohol 90% (and up) will work! Also at Walmart you can get stuff called &lt;em&gt;Goo Gone&lt;/em&gt; or even better is &lt;em&gt;Oops!&lt;/em&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What you're doing is melting the plastic chemically. Since PLA is made from corn (more or less) the same chemicals won't work on this kind of bio plastic that PLA is. ABS is an oil based product so that's why acetone works. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I use those two mentioned products because they are made to remove glues and waxes and don't immediately evaporate so it has time to do its job and dissolve the plastic. Alcohol will evaporate, especially with less water content, and I absolutely positively don't want anyone doing this in a bedroom or kitchen especially do not do it without ventilation! The vapors are flammable and will build up fast at room temp and takes little to set off and it's just bad! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With alcohol I dip and soak the parts till I see them looking kind of soft like having a skin or depending on the PLA used silky. I print hotter than recommended with hot bed little to no fan and more feed because what happens is it gets denser past a certain temp and will look like its messing up and not print right like its clogged or not being fed fast enough and it's &lt;em&gt;true&lt;/em&gt; but if you increase the feed rate to say 108 or 115 it compensates for the shrinkage and you get the same fill. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now that being said your going to get smoother prints because it becomes like watery but with faster speed and or little fan snaps it in place but the hot bed will keep it from getting too hard for the next pass of the hot end and new layer so the next layer wont go on a cold surface and can easily get squished and fused to the last layer and now two  0.15&amp;nbsp;mm layers act like three but denser and smoother. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then with the Oops! chemical or alcohol I just take what's left of the imperfections off. I take a dustless cloth and apply the solution onto it and wiping in the same direction with very little pressure till it feels like the cloth is getting stuck or its biting then I leave it alone for 15 seconds and wash it off by dunking it in a bucket of cold soapy water then rinse with fresh water and repeat if necessary. It's best if you use string to hold or suspend the parts because it's easy to leave prints behind. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also even better (and I don't offer this because any liquid when atomized can be flammable - besides water) is to use spray bottles instead and lightly spray the same process on and dip-and-dunk to take it off - instead of wiping and risking leaving prints with marks on the finished parts. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is sanding. Lots of sanding is another way to smooth parts. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also tried conformal coating my parts which works but gets messy when trying to apply over a pre applied coat. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then there's body filler or if you use paint I recommend either automotive paint with filler primer or a paint in the automotive section specifically for plastic and vinyl or heavy thick paints but not latex but lacquer paint that is heavy and fills in imperfections but lays flat when dried! There are Lexan paints for RC and model plastics but need primer.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But your best bet is make sure that your printer is running 100&amp;nbsp;% print in as fine detail with no bigger than 0.4&amp;nbsp;mm nozzle and make sure your slicer profile is setup to work perfectly with how your machine works like your stepper numbers and everything because all that matters first and foremost your first layer determines the rest of the print! Level bed and clean level surface! New nozzle every few dozen prints makes a difference unless you get a high end tip! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keeping your Bowden tube fresh also makes a big difference! Get yourself feeler gauges and use them to level your bed instead of paper and it will be exact every time! And print the same speed and make as few adjustments as possible through the whole print and it will come out uniform. Taller prints if you need hot bed add heat as the print gets taller or nozzle temp because the print will lose heat as it gets higher up and won't print the same as the bottom layers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope this helps or was the answers you were looking for! I was just passing through and hate useless answers that done have anything to do with the question asked! People like to just talk I guess.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16448" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2019-05-13T20:56:46.023" LastActivityDate="2019-05-13T20:56:46.023" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9918" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9921" CreationDate="2019-05-13T16:31:52.817" Score="12" ViewCount="990" Body="&lt;p&gt;The ArchDaily article &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.archdaily.com/916888/ai-spacefactory-wins-nasas-3d-printed-mars-habitat-challenge&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;AI SpaceFactory Wins NASA's 3D-Printed Mars Habitat Challenge&lt;/a&gt; shows a working 3D printing apparatus using an unusual material containing &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;basalt fiber extracted from Marian rock (simulant) and renewable plant-based bioplastic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The photo below shows part of the printer. Is this printer just leaving a slurry to dry, or does the mixture somehow catalyze or harden spontaneously? I'm also wondering what the (looks like) twelve black hoses are around the central nozzle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EpsQP.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EpsQP.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;AI SpaceFactory NASA Centennial Challenge&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tRbVz.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tRbVz.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;AI SpaceFactory NASA Centennial Challenge&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/A0MRJ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/A0MRJ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;AI SpaceFactory NASA Centennial Challenge&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14703" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2021-12-15T21:17:09.610" LastActivityDate="2021-12-15T21:17:09.610" Title="How does this Martian habitat 3D printer built for NASA work?" Tags="|print-material|part-identification|autodesk|concrete-printers|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9919" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9915" CreationDate="2019-05-13T18:16:59.057" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is an example of a right handed extruder setup:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UKSrb.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UKSrb.png&quot; alt=&quot;Right Handed Extruder Setup&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And this is an example of a left handed extruder setup:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TIdO6.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TIdO6.png&quot; alt=&quot;Left Handed Extruder Setup&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I believe that you can can choose whatever one you favor. With the right handed setup, you will be pushing down the red part with your right hand when inserting filament. With the left handed setup, you will be doing the same thing but then with your left hand. Personally, I favor the right handed setup (my right hand is my dominant and stronger hand). But, you should be able to choose whatever one you like! Be sure to check it will work with your printer though (extruder holder &amp;amp; hotend). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16308" LastEditorUserId="16308" LastEditDate="2019-05-14T03:40:02.247" LastActivityDate="2019-05-14T03:40:02.247" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9920" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9915" CreationDate="2019-05-13T18:36:23.040" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It usually doesn't matter whether you get a right-handed or left-handed one. The reason the two different variations exist is because some people use a dual extruder setup. If you have two extruders it is convenient to have them be mirror images of each other (as this makes them easier to install in use with the filament release lever pointing out to the side). If you have only a single extruder, it doesn't really matter, unless there are other construction restraints.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2019-05-14T10:55:47.677" LastActivityDate="2019-05-14T10:55:47.677" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9921" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9918" CreationDate="2019-05-13T20:06:34.967" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Let's start with the general design look and feel: This printer contains a robotic arm with a toolhead, pretty similar to a welding robot, and probably is controlled with a similar CAM software.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SrNy6.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SrNy6.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;a welding robot&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt; Picture by &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.robotics.org/blog-article.cfm/Improving-Safety-in-Robotic-Welding-Applications/47&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Robotics.org&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Tool head&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The really interesting part here is the tool head. So let's look at it and try to reverse engineer the use of some parts by how they are placed and what one can see about them, together with the information given by OP.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Black pipes&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's a bundle of 12 black pipes that go from the main body to the print head, ending at the side of some distance disk. To me, these look suspiciously like a system to deliver an airstream, so most likely some sort of cooling system. This is further supported by the huge fans at the base of the machine, pumping air into the flexible pipe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Silver Tank&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first picture shows a silver tank with the label V7 (version 7?) or VT (as in Virginia Tech) or something similar on it. This is connected via a grey hose to the base of the printer. The mounting of it over the extruder hints, that this is a hopper, most likely holding the print material in pelletized or powder form, and that it is fed via the grey hose. From the information given in the question, it might be some sort of PLA (synthesized from cornstarch) or other bioplastic using the &lt;em&gt;Martian&lt;/em&gt; dust as a filler material. From here, the print material falls into the central column...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Central Column&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;...which goes down through the distance disk into the thick nozzle, so it must be the extruder and heater combo. At its top, there is a large stepper motor in Z orientation, which hints that inside of the matte grey tube is an arbor, pressing down the melting pellets past a heating element into the nozzle below.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Print material and further information&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The last picture shows proudly &amp;quot;Autodesk&amp;quot; on the side of the printer. Autodesk has an own article about &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.autodesk.com/redshift/3d-printing-in-space/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;printing in space&lt;/a&gt; from August 2018, where Nathan Golino of the NASA owned GMRO states this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Abrasion has been an issue with the 3D printer we use. It’s very rough on the feed screw and the barrel and nozzle as the material is extruded through the system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This confirms the general makeup akin to a pellet-style extruder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Combining a small amount of waste plastic with crushed rock known as regolith can form an additive construction material that’s stronger than concrete. (on a picture caption)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The material we’ve been using in our additive-construction experiments is regolith mixed with waste polymers. You can get polymers in the form of astronaut trash and shipping containers, or you can synthesize polymers. You can use that as a binder for regolith, with a relatively low ratio of polymer to regolith, to make a construction material pretty similar to Portland cement in compression and 20 times stronger in tensile strength.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&amp;quot;Waste polymer&amp;quot; could be anything from ABS to PETG, from ASA over PC to PLA, but it seems that the plastic-to-regolith mix is on the high regolith side. It seems that it behaves more like a plastic than concrete, hardening/solidifying from a molten paste to its hard concrete as it cools.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As an interesting extra tidbit: Golino also states, that the mars-printers are at the moment on level 2 to 3, where 0 is &amp;quot;general concept&amp;quot; and 9 &amp;quot;ready to fly&amp;quot;, so in early development.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.digitalengineering247.com/article/autodesk-nasa-explores-3d-printing-mars/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Further reading&lt;/a&gt; into the background of the project - a design competition in 2015 - hinted, that the software for the arm might even be &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.autodesk.com/products/powermill/overview&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Autodesk PowerMill.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looking back at the question if that is V7 or VT on the printer's hopper, an &lt;a href=&quot;https://archdesign.caus.vt.edu/news/virginia-tech-research-and-students-on-the-interplanetary-stage-with-competition-winner-ai-space-factory-at-the-finals-of-the-nasa-3d-printed-habitat-challenge/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;article&lt;/a&gt; with the same dome printed in OP's question popped up: Virginia Tech had been part of the crews that were taken to the finals of the aforementioned &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=3&amp;amp;v=PNPg6pqNYg8&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;design competition&lt;/a&gt; and was part of the finals. They worked with the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.aispacefactory.com/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;AI Space Factory&lt;/a&gt; team, which came out winning. In a &lt;a href=&quot;https://archdesign.caus.vt.edu/news/cdr-design-robotics-laboratory-nasa-competition/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;related article&lt;/a&gt;, the printer OP showed us can be seen from a different angle and stripped of the cooling pipes and with a different, longer extruder. It tells us a little more about the work distribution of the teams and participants:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Large format vessel printed by AI SpaceFactory in the Autodesk BUILD Space for the construction phase of the competition. The tooling was developed in collaboration with Virginia Tech and Autodesk.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main company behind it, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.aispacefactory.com/post/level-2-initiated-3d-printing-is-nominal&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;AI SpaceFactory&lt;/a&gt;, showed a different version - the one without cooling pipes - in motion on a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ifftUszK8zg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;YouTube video on April 10th 2019&lt;/a&gt; and the performance of the air-cooled version during the competition finals on &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Sm7u5fm2sCY&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;May 3rd 2019&lt;/a&gt; (warning, 10 hours of 3D printing galore!) At &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/Sm7u5fm2sCY?t=35532&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;9:52:12&lt;/a&gt; we also start to learn what that disk is in picture 1: It is the endcap of the structure which sadly fell through the hole due to navigation issues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the following &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=axnuLepJufs&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;shorter and commented video&lt;/a&gt;, we see that the printer also contains some sort of gripper to place the window frames and skylight just as well as the load bearing test performed after the print. Apparently, the material they use is engineered to a point where it can be reused after regrinding it to dust again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:29:41.667" LastActivityDate="2019-05-14T10:58:53.890" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9923" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-05-13T20:36:41.750" Score="3" ViewCount="34" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a part that experiences larger than average forces in some of its protrusions. It would make sense to reinforce walls, and in particular strengthen infill in those areas. But to save material and printing time, I would like to use thinner walls etc for the rest of the part.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any tricks for how to do this, other than printing two parts with different parameters and joining them somehow?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is Prusa i3 with slic3r.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16451" LastActivityDate="2019-05-13T20:36:41.750" Title="Selective reinforcement of some places in my part" Tags="|prusa-i3|slic3r|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2019-05-14T17:21:08.317" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9924" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9915" CreationDate="2019-05-13T22:10:34.407" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The short answer to identify what extruder type you have is the &lt;strong&gt;rotation of the extruder gear&lt;/strong&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;CCW rotation to extrude = right-handed extruder&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Detailed explanation is below.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition to the other answers, the right-handed designation comes from math and pysics convention that has become a well known mnemonic in engineering practice:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/a6dsA.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/a6dsA.png&quot; alt=&quot;Right hand mnemonic&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;or in its physics coat,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RolFm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RolFm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;right hand rule in physics&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The Right Hand Rule&lt;/strong&gt;: Figure (a) shows a disk is rotating counterclockwise when viewed from above. Figure (b) shows the right-hand rule. The direction of angular velocity ω size and angular momentum L are defined to be the direction in which the thumb of your right hand points when you curl your fingers in the direction of the disk’s rotation as shown.&#xA;  &lt;sub&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://courses.lumenlearning.com/boundless-physics/chapter/vector-nature-of-rotational-kinematics/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;reference&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In a right-handed extruder, &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UKSrb.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UKSrb.png&quot; alt=&quot;Right Handed Extruder Setup&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;you place your thumb of your right hand in the direction of the shaft (so pointing it towards yourself in the image of the extruder above) to see that rotation in the direction of your curved fingers leads to extrusion of filament (in counterclockwise direction).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a mirrored extruder they call it left-handed extruder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2019-05-14T11:03:52.577" LastActivityDate="2019-05-14T11:03:52.577" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9925" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9867" CreationDate="2019-05-13T23:11:37.293" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;After studying the Marlin code, I found the answer I was looking for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I have a spare PWM pin, I can assign it to anything I want. So the best solution is to define the pin as a &lt;code&gt;Z_MIN_PROBE&lt;/code&gt; and then in &lt;code&gt;Configuration.h&lt;/code&gt; in the Bltouch settings&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#define Z_MIN_PROBE_ENDSTOP&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;rather than&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#define Z_MIN_ENDSTOP_USES&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16358" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2022-06-17T11:05:52.947" LastActivityDate="2022-06-17T11:05:52.947" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9926" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8163" CreationDate="2019-05-13T23:16:56.283" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;No not by itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also you need to check the wires in the ATX power supply as 16 gauge wire might melt depending on how many amps it needs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could on the other hand connect 2 ATX power supplies the plus 12v on power supply 1 to the 12v ground on the second power supply.  Then use a volt meter to confirm your getting 24v out.  On the 2 leads not connected.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This still could run into problems as you have to be careful with the wire gauge.  You need 14g wire for 15 amps, and 12g (thicker) for 20 amps.  Finding an ATX power supply with better than 12g wire is highly unlikely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16395" LastEditorUserId="16395" LastEditDate="2019-05-18T15:30:50.083" LastActivityDate="2019-05-18T15:30:50.083" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9927" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9928" CreationDate="2019-05-13T23:18:44.857" Score="1" ViewCount="214" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am trying to do some edits on an STL file. I am trying to use meshmixer for this. I am essentially trying to move a hole in the following picture &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zMAYk.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zMAYk.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;and widen the hole on the bottom of the part. I was playing around with meshmixer and it seems that it can do this by sculpting rather than precise measures. I would appreciate comments if my observation is correct and if so, what other STL editor would you suggest to do these edits. Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16454" LastEditorUserId="854" LastEditDate="2019-05-13T23:37:35.903" LastActivityDate="2019-05-13T23:37:35.903" Title="precise transformation using meshmixer" Tags="|stl|meshmixer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9928" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9927" CreationDate="2019-05-13T23:36:55.787" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's possible to close over a hole using Meshmixer. I've done exactly that recently, although the &quot;hole&quot; was a depression, the process would be the same. As you've discovered, Meshmixer can be considered somewhat imprecise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fusion 360 will import the model you wish to modify. You would then turn off edit history, convert the model to BREP, then perform the edits you require.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you are satisfied with the results, it's an easy matter to export the model as an STL file.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've summarized the steps, which are almost as easy as my description. You'd have to combine Google-Fu with the summary for the detailed portions, but it's something I've done in the past. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.autodesk.com/campaigns/fusion-360-for-hobbyists&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Fusion 360&lt;/a&gt; is free for hobbyists, renewable each year. There are many YouTube tutorials and text-referenced solutions for the steps required to accomplish your edit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some will consider &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.blender.org/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Blender&lt;/a&gt; to be an alternative method and I agree that it's a viable option, but it's not quite as intuitive as Fusion 360 and was more challenging for me to embrace.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastActivityDate="2019-05-13T23:36:55.787" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9929" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9842" CreationDate="2019-05-14T00:59:17.293" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I’ve been using a buck converter for quite awhile with no problems. However just as importantly as proper voltage and amperage is using a good cable. I had my step down properly set, but was still getting low voltage warnings until I switched to a thicker cable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16358" LastActivityDate="2019-05-14T00:59:17.293" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9930" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6522" CreationDate="2019-05-14T07:13:53.823" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, it's possible, and not just limited to Cura. If you use GrabCAD Print (for Stratasys printers), the &lt;em&gt;Advanced FDM&lt;/em&gt; feature allows different infill in different regions of your part - not based on layers, but based on your CAD geometry. Because of this, you have to start the process in CAD, by creating a part with multiple bodies. (For example, in Solidworks, you do this by turning off &quot;merge&quot; when you add a second boss, or by making a cut from a sketch and turning on &quot;keep both parts&quot;.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you've done this, go into the &lt;em&gt;Advanced FDM&lt;/em&gt; tab in GrabCAD Print, and add your CAD part (the CAD file itself, not an STL). The two or more bodies in your part will be shown separately in the project panel: select them all and choose &quot;merge&quot;. Now they will all be printed as a single part, but you can select each one and give them different infill settings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also select any CAD face (i.e. not individual triangles) and override its wall thickness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can read a &lt;a href=&quot;https://help.grabcad.com/article/245-advanced-fdm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;full tutorial about Advanced FDM&lt;/a&gt; on the GrabCAD website.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13100" LastActivityDate="2019-05-14T07:13:53.823" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9931" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8665" CreationDate="2019-05-14T07:14:59.317" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;We select nozzles depending on what project we want to,do and it must match with the hot end as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16447" LastActivityDate="2019-05-14T07:14:59.317" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9932" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9933" CreationDate="2019-05-14T09:59:03.603" Score="4" ViewCount="217" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently asked a question in the space section of stackexchange as to if Martian soil, with its decent iron oxide content, could be mined (with magnets) for its iron oxide and the iron oxide used as building material for an SLS/SLM 3d printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this possible? The final result doesn't have to be pure iron, I'm just looking to see if iron oxide is a suitable building material for a SLS/SLM 3d printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16444" LastActivityDate="2019-05-14T11:56:31.923" Title="Is iron oxide a suitable material for use in SLS/SLM 3d printing?" Tags="|sls|slm|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9933" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9932" CreationDate="2019-05-14T10:47:09.490" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;First of all, let's start with the basics:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Iron oxide aka rust&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The University of Illinois hosts a &amp;quot;Ask the Van&amp;quot;, where the question &lt;a href=&quot;https://van.physics.illinois.edu/qa/listing.php?id=374&amp;amp;t=rusty-metal-and-magnetism&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&amp;quot;is rust magnetic&amp;quot;&lt;/a&gt; has been asked, and I will quote from Tom J. and Mike W.:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are several different oxides of iron, with different fractions of oxygen. They are Fe0, Fe2O3, and Fe3O4. Rust consists mostly of Fe2O3, with additional water molecules attached. There are several forms of Fe2O3, and a common mineral composed of Fe2O3 is called hematite, which is a shiny-blackish mineral. Hematite is not ferromagnetic, but it does still respond to a magnetic field and will be attracted to the poles of a permanent magnet.[...] FeO is also not ferromagnetic, but it is pulled about twice as much as Fe2O3 towards the poles of a magnet. Magnetite, Fe3O4, is ferromagnetic, and is about 1/4 as strong as pure iron.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In a followup answer by Mike W., it gets more explicit:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rust (a collection of some iron oxides) is virtually non-magnetic, unlike plain iron or most types of steel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This means pretty much, that unlike pure iron, you can't pick up (most) rust particles with a magnet. From all that we know about the Martian soil, we know for sure that it has a very fine grain, so the particles in itself are tiny. This again hints that any exposed iron on Mars has been thoroughly rusted through over the last million years, leaving only non-magnetic rust dust on the surface - dust that is not suitable to be mined with magnets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We have an analysis of the &lt;a href=&quot;https://agupubs.onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/pdf/10.1029/JB087iB12p10059&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;chemical composition of Mars&lt;/a&gt; from some landers, hinting that Martian regolith indeed is colored from its high content of iron in various bonds. So, what we do with that data? We create Maritan regolith simulant, which has been &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.lpi.usra.edu/meetings/LPSC98/pdf/1690.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;checked back against the findings of the probes&lt;/a&gt;. And low and behold: there is not a single percentile of iron in either the findings or the probes or the regolith simulants. Just about 16-18 % rust.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Regolith for SLS?&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, we have regolith with a somewhat even distribution of rust in it. And we have a stimulant that can be acquired from Huston. To my knowledge, it has not yet been tested for SLM, but it has been used in powder based extruders, as explored in &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/9918/how-does-this-martian-habitat-3d-printer-built-for-nasa-work&quot;&gt;How does this Martian habitat 3D printer built for NASA work?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With the lack of testing and the relatively low iron oxide content, I am hesitant to say that it will work to print in the usual way. However, with the addition of some polymer, one could create a fast regolith-plastic compound that shows similar behavior to concrete. This material could be made suitable for 3D printing in SLS machines. Another idea might be to go from SLM (selective laser melting) to the older SLS (&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Selective_laser_sintering&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;selective laser sintering&lt;/a&gt;) or even simple sintering, in which a compound is pretty much &amp;quot;baked&amp;quot; into shape without fully melting it. We understand well how to sinter materials we have trouble with melting otherwise, and one of the prime examples is tungsten carbide.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Conclusion&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While I see problems with mining iron from Martian regolith without a chemical refining process or refining it akin to iron sand, I don't see how martian regolith can't be refined into a suitable SLM or SLS material by addition of some kind of polymer or a thermal and mechanical process to achieve sinterable material. Instead of a polymer, a pure metal (magnesium or aluminium) could be added as a binder too. With the availability of regolith simulant for research, it only takes a research group that is interested in researching the suitability of this material for such applications.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:29:41.667" LastActivityDate="2019-05-14T11:56:31.923" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9935" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9937" CreationDate="2019-05-14T11:40:41.190" Score="5" ViewCount="3568" Body="&lt;p&gt;During a print a lot of plastic ended up ripping the nozzle's yellow insulation strap. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can printing without this insulation around the fusion chamber damage the printer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If there is no chance of damaging the printer, how likely is it that the prints will be affected by the absence of this insulation &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CYGI7.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CYGI7.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;highlight of the insulation strap&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12378" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-05-14T21:35:04.623" LastActivityDate="2019-06-07T10:29:14.287" Title="Nozzle insulation gone, can the printer be damaged?" Tags="|creality-cr-10|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9936" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9935" CreationDate="2019-05-14T11:47:38.020" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, without the insulation you can print without a problem. I've been printing for years with (cotton or silicone) and without insulation, works perfectly. Although heat radiates from the heater block, I've never experienced issues that it causes overheating of your printed parts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that the insulation tries to contain the heat in the nozzle preventing heat to leak to the surroundings (less energy is used/wasted). As such you may need to do a new PID tuning (certainly when the print cooling fan is incorrectly positioned as such that it cools the hotend heater block), but printing should just work fine if the print cooling fan is in the correct position.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-05-14T21:58:59.757" LastActivityDate="2019-05-14T21:58:59.757" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9937" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9935" CreationDate="2019-05-14T12:06:39.290" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Removing the insulation will not damage the printer, although it may affect the quality of the prints. The insulation is, after all, there for a purpose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Allowing too much heat to escape radiatively from the heater block will reduce the maximum flow rate, since less energy will be available to heat the filament, and you may need to reduce your printing speeds or increase your nozzle temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A bigger problem is that heat radiating from the heater block can cause already extruded filament to sag, especially when printing details and intricate infill. If the nozzle remains too long in any area, already extruded filament is likely to soften and deform. Without adequate insulation, the only way to counteract this is by increasing part cooling, and this will remove even more energy from the heater block.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Either fit new insulating tape or buy some silicone socks, since they are readily available for MK7/8/9 heater blocks. Then print a couple of Benchies, both with and without a sock, and compare the results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3953" LastEditorUserId="3953" LastEditDate="2019-05-14T12:26:01.793" LastActivityDate="2019-05-14T12:26:01.793" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9938" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9911" CreationDate="2019-05-14T12:13:46.377" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;First of all, I'm not talking on a first-hand experience: I don't own a RAMPS based printer.&#xA;If I were you and wish to be 100 % sure the setup you are describing doesn't blow up in my face I would use a spare pin on the Mega to drive the relay which, in turn, drive the 24 V source line. In terms of delay I would use a couple of seconds after power on: enough time to have the bootscreen completes and all the pins being set as per firmware configuration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13989" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-10-05T17:48:24.663" LastActivityDate="2020-10-05T17:48:24.663" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9939" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9904" CreationDate="2019-05-14T13:04:46.797" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The hot end can clog in two places.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Heat distortion can cause the filament above the nozzle, at the level of the cooling fins, to melt, expand and prevent further passage.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The nozzle itself may be clogged by impurities.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are two methods available, depending on the type of clogging.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If the hot end is blocked at the level of the cooling fins, a so-called &quot;Atomic Pull&quot; helps. This is also a convenient method of changing filaments. The hot end is heated to approx. 90°C and the filament is pulled out of the hot end with a bold jerk. The filament does not melt completely and remains tough. Thus the complete plastic is pulled out of the hot end.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If the nozzle is clogged, an &quot;Atomic Pull&quot; only helps to a limited extent.&#xA;To clean a nozzle, the hot end should be removed from the holder and the heating block unscrewed. You need a gas burner. With the gas burner the brass nozzle is heated until the plastic is completely carbonized. Wait until it has cooled down and reassemble the hotend.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Post-cleaning advice:&#xA;Be sure that the hotend is cooled enough that no heat can creep up the hotend and melt the plastic before it enters the heat block. Without sufficient cooling clogging pre-nozzle is very likely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3783" LastActivityDate="2019-05-14T13:04:46.797" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9940" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4982" CreationDate="2019-05-14T13:53:14.907" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;PLA+ is a &lt;strong&gt;marketing term&lt;/strong&gt;. Where PLA and ABS have specific chemical meanings (more or less... manufacturers already will have different additives or processes), the only real requirement for PLA+ is using some unknown quantity of PLA as a base.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Look at coffee beans as an example: we have Arabica vs Robusta. Arabica is usually considered better, for some definition of &amp;quot;better&amp;quot;. (BTW: Starbucks serves cheaper Robusta). The relevant thing here is in many places you only need 10% Arabica content to label and market a coffee as Arabica coffee. The rest of the product could be... well, &lt;em&gt;anything&lt;/em&gt; the maker wants to include.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PLA+ is similar. There's no real definitive meaning to it, beyond some measure of original PLA content and the hope you'll believe it's &amp;quot;better&amp;quot;, and therefore maybe pay a little more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The good news is, usually PLA+ really is better... at least so far. But as more people start viewing it as a real step up from regular PLA, it's likely we'll also start to see some shady business people pass off inferior product at PLA+. It's likely this is already happening.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Moral of the story: read the label carefully. And unlike coffee, which is a food and therefore better regulated, filaments have hardly any rules about labeling; there may not be a label to read at all, so be extra careful what you buy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12562" LastEditorUserId="12562" LastEditDate="2022-12-29T18:36:17.407" LastActivityDate="2022-12-29T18:36:17.407" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9941" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11" CreationDate="2019-05-14T19:08:09.893" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;For a cheap method to smooth out your prints, you can use clear nail polish. It will act as a resin-like coat. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16354" LastActivityDate="2019-05-14T19:08:09.893" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9942" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9899" CreationDate="2019-05-14T19:28:01.600" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;As far as I know Erik van der Zalm started Marlin. He is from the Netherlands and Zalm translates to &quot;salmon&quot;. One of the design goals of Marlin was to make it faster than the other firmware available at that time. And a marlin is a very fast swimming fish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some firmwares developed after Marlin also joined this fish theme: Sailfish, Minnow, ...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="204" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-05-15T05:26:42.660" LastActivityDate="2019-05-15T05:26:42.660" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9943" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="743" CreationDate="2019-05-15T00:14:03.050" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The extruder is an MK8 derivative, &lt;em&gt;I think&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After a &lt;em&gt;lot&lt;/em&gt; of searching, the closest that I could find (with an assembly diagram) is this product which has more or less the same parts as yours (apart from the small black bolt and sleeve - used as the axis - which you don't have): &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B07BMLD646&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;[Improved Version] YOTINO Right Hand MK8 Remote Bowden Extruder Accessories 1.75mm/3mm Filament All Metal Remote Extruder Frame Block for Reprap 3D Printer Kossel Prusa&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These are the parts:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5BTxF.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;16 parts&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5BTxF.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;16 parts&quot; title=&quot;16 parts&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the assembly process:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/whaLA.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Assembly process&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/whaLA.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Assembly process&quot; title=&quot;Assembly process&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the completed extruder:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YF1U6.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Completed extruder&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YF1U6.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Completed extruder&quot; title=&quot;Completed extruder&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, whilst this is not the same beast, this link shows a detailed assembly which could prove useful as a cross reference: &lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/wiki/Extruder_assembly&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;RepRapWiki - Extruder assembly&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition, w.r.t the Blomker guide, there are a number of versions of the same guide that I've come across in the past:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.robotdigg.com/upload/pdf/2a823cc8a8dcff9da99cce92710cc745.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Kossel Mini Build Guide by Blomker&lt;/a&gt; - which has a very different extruder to the MK8&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://gr33nonline.files.wordpress.com/2017/05/kossel-mini-instrution-by-sintron-technology_v2.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Kossel Mini Build Guide By Sintron&lt;/a&gt; - which has a similar MK8 extruder but, rather unfortunately, no assembly details, only the finished article is shown, on page 58&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4762" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2019-05-15T08:01:49.350" LastActivityDate="2019-05-15T08:01:49.350" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9944" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9915" CreationDate="2019-05-15T06:22:07.463" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;when thinking about righ-handed extruder or left-handed extruder it's good to know that there is no magic or any other science rule behind this naming convention. it's just an arbitrary explanation which can be unfortunately misleading. in fact there is visual explanation of this left / right handed name and it doesn't have anything to any &quot;the right handed rule&quot; mentioned in other answers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;it's just this&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3N6So.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3N6So.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;no physics... no magnetism... no induction... no vectors and no formulas&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;the other answers present pictures of LH and RH extruders which are of course fine but be careful - there are universal extruders which can be both L or R handed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;like this one&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jo32P.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jo32P.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;as this extruder has fully fixed filament path and there is no restriction which direction the filament should go - there is no way to describe it arbitrarily&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;it is left-handed when it works as left-handed and it is RH when it works as RH&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1211" LastEditorUserId="1211" LastEditDate="2019-05-15T09:34:28.257" LastActivityDate="2019-05-15T09:34:28.257" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9947" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-05-15T10:13:13.997" Score="3" ViewCount="4513" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a heater cartridge here that measures 7.2&amp;nbsp;&amp;Omega;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;At 12&amp;nbsp;V that would amount to 20&amp;nbsp;W&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;At 24&amp;nbsp;V that would amount to 80&amp;nbsp;W&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The cartridge itself is 2&amp;nbsp;cm long&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could it handle both voltages or is this clearly an under-powered 12&amp;nbsp;V cartridge?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16467" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2019-05-15T10:20:48.670" LastActivityDate="2019-05-15T16:28:09.903" Title="Heater cartridge with 7.2 ohms - 12 or 24 V?" Tags="|heat-management|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9949" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5522" CreationDate="2019-05-15T13:55:28.510" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;XYZPrinting printers use a .3w file format vs GCode on all opensource printer designs.  I have used Simplify3D since the first month I obtained my Da Vinci Pro 3 in 1 which also has WiFi enabled.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Simplify3D does not connect very well to my Da Vinci WiFi so a 25ft ActiveUSB extension makes the connection for uploading and monitoring the progress of the print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All the XYZPrinting Da Vinci series are available on the printer configuration wizard if not then sending a request to Simplify3D will obtain a response with the printer configuration file.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15203" LastActivityDate="2019-05-15T13:55:28.510" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9950" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4982" CreationDate="2019-05-15T15:49:52.710" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;Disclaimer: I am not affiliated with any linked brand or company, I just link to them for reference of the suggested print settings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;What is PLA?&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PLA is, by its definition PolyLacticAcid, a polymer of entwined lactic acids. It is commonly made from fermenting starch - not via Type I (alcohol) but Type II (lactic acid) fermentation&lt;sup&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/12857/user77232&quot;&gt;user77232&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lactic_acid_fermentation&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Wikipedia&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;. Chemically it looks like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JFAww.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JFAww.png&quot; alt=&quot;Structural formula of PLA&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's relevant physical data for the pure material are a density of 1.210–1.430 g·cm&lt;sup&gt;−3&lt;/sup&gt; and a melting point of 150 to 160 °C.&lt;sup&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Polylactic_acid&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Wikipedia&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Usually, PLA sold under just the name PLA contains, besides PLA, additives to change the color from transparent to whatever color one is printing at. This can change the standard printing temperature depending on the amount, size and shape of the pigments embedded (see below).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Common Printing temperatures are listed by the manufacturers in the range of 185 to 210 °C. The color can have an influence on the printing temperature, especially for the difference between transparent and opaque filaments. While a heated bed is not strictly necessary, the bed temperature is usually quoted with 60 °C.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I myself print most PLA filaments at 200 °C and 60 °C bed, but for noncolored transparent filament, I had better results using 190 °C.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that not all PLA is just PLA! It is very likely that some PLA brands contain fillers and additives from the house without claiming to be a +-filament, indeed, additives precede the idea of PLA+, as the case with Tiertime PP3DP filaments will show.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;The special Tiertime mixture&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since back in 2012 or earlier, ABS made by Tiertime includes some unknown compound (possibly PC) that alters the best-result print temperature from the &amp;quot;normal&amp;quot; 220 - 240 °C to the much higher but narrower 260 - 270 °C band. Why this is done is a mystery among 3d-printing enthusiasts, but it might be either to get rid of any color-dependency of the print results or to make it harder to use generic ABS. Fact is, that this temperature was matching what was set as the (then unchangeable) standard temperature in the &lt;em&gt;Up 1.1.7&lt;/em&gt; software of that time.&lt;sup&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.tiertime.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=8233&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Angus aka MakersMuse&lt;/a&gt; &amp;amp; &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.tiertime.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=8233&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Tiertime Forums&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;. The higher temperature hasn't changed over the years&lt;sup&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.genie-online.de/product/3D-printer-ABS-filament-1x700g-1.75mm-Color-black/239&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Tiertime ABS&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;. Indeed, the Tiertime PLA introduced in March 2014&lt;sup&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.tiertime.com/tiertime-now-offers-pla-for-up-series-printers/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Tiertime&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt; is also quoted to print at higher temperatures than generic PLA, and had similarly a higher default temperature in the then updated UP-spftware&lt;sup&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.tiertime.com/dami/viewtopic.php?t=54665&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Tiertime Forums&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;, though I found listings from 200&lt;sup&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprintersuperstore.com.au/products/black-up-pla&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; &amp;amp; &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.reprap-3d-printer.com/product/1234568364-pla-tiertime-official-natural&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt; to 215 °C&lt;sup&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.3dmensionals.de/tiertime-pp3dp-up-pla-filament-1000g?number=PSUPP0030V&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; under Technische Daten&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The modern &lt;em&gt;UP-Studio&lt;/em&gt; software allows setting the temperature freely&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;sup&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/uCnNxc_U9cE?t=437&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Angus aka MakersMuse&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;What is PLA+?&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, what differs PLA from PLA+? Well, PLA+ is a &lt;em&gt;modified&lt;/em&gt; PLA, which means that it has additives in it to alter its properties. What exactly is added depends extremely on the manufacturer, and no two PLA+ are the same.&lt;sup&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://all3dp.com/2/pla-vs-pla-3d-printer-filament-compared/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;all3dp&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;What is the difference?&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PLA+ has - but for a few degrees - the same printing temperature as standard PLA. In fact, the printing temperature difference between standard PLA from different brands is often larger than the difference between PLA and PLA+.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://all3dp.com/2/pla-vs-pla-3d-printer-filament-compared/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;All3dp&lt;/a&gt; claims, that most PLA+ would have a better surface finish than the PLA from the same brand. Because of the additives, they also usually print best at elevated temperature compared to PLA. Among various manufacturers, I saw 210–240 °C&lt;sup&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B079VYGNRG&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Kodak PLA+&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;, 190-220 °C&lt;sup&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.amazon.de/SUNLU-Filament-Printing-Dimensional-Accuracy/dp/B073P9LZWB&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;SUNLU PLA+&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt; and 190-210 °C&lt;sup&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.amazon.de/eSun-Filament-Universal-Thing-matic/dp/B01KM6MDFG&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;eSun PLA+&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, there is no uniformity in other effects on the filament. Some filaments would have less moisture absorption, a different stiffness or compressibility while others might have a higher tensile strength and feature an extremely glossy surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most commonly, the claimed benefits lie in the fields of the filament's strength, surface texture and glossiness, the printability of overhangs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Conclusion&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PLA+ is &lt;strong&gt;not one product&lt;/strong&gt; per se but &lt;strong&gt;a family of modified PLA&lt;/strong&gt;. While you can print PLA+ with the same settings as normal PLA, the resulting benefits between different brands are much more diverse than with normal PLA.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Changing between different brands of &lt;em&gt;similar quality&lt;/em&gt; normal PLA has usually little to no effect on the print's general properties.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Changing between different brands of &lt;em&gt;similar quality&lt;/em&gt; PLA+ can alter the print's properties immensely&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because of the fact that no two brands of PLA+ are the same (and the manufacturers are silent on what additives they use to change the properties), one should not rely on the same effects when switching between brands.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:29:41.667" LastActivityDate="2019-05-17T20:07:52.827" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9951" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9947" CreationDate="2019-05-15T16:22:53.417" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;e3D Heater Cartridges are &lt;a href=&quot;https://e3d-online.dozuki.com/Guide/V6+Assembly/6?lang=en#s70&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;documented&lt;/a&gt; to be around 4.8 Ω for 12 V &amp;amp; 30 W, 3.6 Ω for 12 V &amp;amp; 40 W, 19.2 Ω for 24 V 30 W and 14.4 Ω for 24 V 40 W.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;7.2 Ω is a value quite far away from these values - about double of what the 12 V versions are listed and about a third/half of a 24 V heater cartridge. So it is not a cartridge that is similar to those. I have contacted e3D about updating the specs of their High Precision Heater Cartridges to include the nominal resistances to get more references, but that information is pending. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, we don't need that. A variant of &lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sengpielaudio.com/calculator-ohm.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Ohm's law&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; can help us estimate what this cartridge could be: &lt;strong&gt;P&lt;/strong&gt;ower is the square of Voltage (&lt;strong&gt;U&lt;/strong&gt;) divided by &lt;strong&gt;R&lt;/strong&gt;esistance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$P=\frac {U^2} R = \frac {144\ \text V^2}{7.2\ \Omega} = 20\ \text W$&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$P=\frac {U^2} R = \frac {576\ \text V^2}{7.2\ \Omega} = 80\ \text W$&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mounted in a 12 V Machine this should act work at 20 W, in a 24 V it would work at 80 W. It does not say, however, if it is designed to get powered with 12 V or 24 V. It doesn't help, that both types exist: I was able to find 12 V 20 W heater cartridges just as well as 24 V 80 W heater cartridges. If it is an underpowered 20 W one and mounted in a 24 V machine, you risk burning it though, but not the other way round.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To differentiate what exactly you have, a photo of the heater cartridge would be needed - it should bear at least a marking of what it's nominal wattage or voltage is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2019-05-15T16:28:09.903" LastActivityDate="2019-05-15T16:28:09.903" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9953" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-05-15T21:42:07.507" Score="2" ViewCount="98" Body="&lt;p&gt;3D Printers (those who print, not the machine, dummy)!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I haven't been printing in a while, so when I returned to my Monoprice Select Mini VII, of course it had been sprung out of whack. Some of my first prints would not even come out of the extruder until I realized I had some pretty bad (and worse, unnoticed!) heat creep going on. After fixing that issue, it became apparent that many more persisted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question for you all is this: In general, what problems should be addressed first when looking at a complete disaster of a print?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not going to specify any singular problem, but I am interested in seeing the &quot;order of operations&quot; for general problem solving when multiple issues exist. For example, &quot;Fix bed height before anything else; this is a common problem that produces multiple others.&quot; Hopefully, this can help others with multiple printing issues, too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16475" LastActivityDate="2019-05-21T02:02:19.623" Title="Order of solving printing issues" Tags="|print-quality|troubleshooting|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9954" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7264" CreationDate="2019-05-15T22:56:36.037" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Based on Oscar's solution using M206, I found it convenient to add in my MicroSD card a hierarchy of such gcode files to set the Z offset to every possible value in some range. For example, &quot;printing&quot; the file z_offset/1mm/1mm2/1mm275.gcode will set (permanently) the Z offset to 1.275 millimeters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This hack is a workaround to the lack of Z offset setting in the printer's menu, and is an alternative to &quot;hardware&quot; Z tuning by moving the endstop. It can be useful when using different build plates with varying thickness, or attaching a pen or any other tool to the print head.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a simple bash script which creates the files taking the MicroSD card location as argument:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#!/bin/bash -e&#xA;&#xA;mkdir $1/z_offset&#xA;&#xA;for i in {9..0}&#xA;do&#xA;    mkdir &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$1/z_offset/&quot;$&lt;/span&gt;i&quot;mm&#xA;    for j in {9..0}&#xA;    do&#xA;        mkdir &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$1/z_offset/&quot;$&lt;/span&gt;i&quot;mm/&quot;&lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$i&quot;mm&quot;$&lt;/span&gt;j&quot;&#xA;        for d in 00 25 50 75&#xA;        do&#xA;            echo -e \&#xA;                 M206 Z-&lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$i.$&lt;/span&gt;j&lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$d\\nM500\\nM117 Z-offset=&quot;$&lt;/span&gt;i&quot;.&quot;&lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$j$&lt;/span&gt;d&quot;mm \&#xA;                 &amp;gt;&lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$1/z_offset/&quot;$&lt;/span&gt;i&quot;mm/&quot;&lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$i&quot;mm&quot;$&lt;/span&gt;j&quot;/&quot;&lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$i&quot;mm&quot;$&lt;/span&gt;j$d&quot;.gcode&#xA;        done&#xA;    done&#xA;done&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I chose a 0.025mm resolution, as 0.1mm is slightly to coarse to adjust for first layer issues. Tested successfully on a Creality Ender 3 printer (which seems to have a 0.015mm resolution on the Z-axis).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16476" LastActivityDate="2019-05-15T22:56:36.037" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9955" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7264" CreationDate="2019-05-15T23:41:31.650" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You don't! Level the bed such that you know the nozzle is above the bed. Stop the print. Disable the steppers. Let it all cool down. Tram the bed (or what you call level). Then start the print again. It doesn't matter what first layer height your slicer thinks it is. All that matters is that it sticks and doesn't elephant foot. Note, if you are using glue stick or white glue (like I do) the thickness of the glue layer will be different between the edge of the glass (I assume you're using glass, otherwise you're never going to get a good tram) and the starting position of the prints. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12857" LastActivityDate="2019-05-15T23:41:31.650" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9956" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9960" CreationDate="2019-05-16T02:35:43.567" Score="2" ViewCount="1996" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Tevo Tornado that I've outfitted with an official BL-Touch auto level sensor. I can see the bed probing run, and I can see the Z axis slowly adjust during x/y moves, so it's doing &lt;em&gt;something&lt;/em&gt;. However, you can see that there appears to be a systematic tilt:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sacY6.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sacY6.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;BL-Touch tilted bed plane&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas what could be causing this? The bed, gantry and print head is tight, no wobble. Here's my start code:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;G28 ; home all axes&#xA;G29&#xA;G1 Z5 F5000 ; lift nozzle&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have mesh leveling enabled with a 5x5 grid and correct probe offsets. The bed itself is on PETG printed standoffs instead of springs to eliminate any jitter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14300" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-05-16T14:48:36.023" LastActivityDate="2020-12-04T15:58:42.233" Title="BL-Touch bed leveling seems to produce tilted bed level around Y-axis" Tags="|bed-leveling|bltouch|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9957" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9889" CreationDate="2019-05-16T04:00:21.383" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I ended up using Saman brand water-based wood stain, also from Rona hardware (a brand of Lowe's Canada). The selection of colours for Saman stains was greater than the Varathane stains. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I applied a single coat of colour #117 &quot;Chamois&quot; to the stem portion of the wand, and two coats of colour #120 &quot;Dark Walnut&quot; to the handle. I did not apply a varnish or sealer. The results seem acceptable, given that I Am Not A Carpenter, and this is my first go at printing and finishing wood PLA! Overall, I'm quite happy with the result. I left the PLA mostly unsanded to take advantage of the layers' wood-grain appearance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/j8OTj.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/j8OTj.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Close up of wand&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jSl8B.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jSl8B.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Another close up, showing the Dark Walnut stained handle at left, the Chamois stained stem at left, with a section of unstained wood PLA at the joint&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10902" LastActivityDate="2019-05-16T04:00:21.383" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9958" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9953" CreationDate="2019-05-16T06:11:46.603" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;for sure the answer could be dissertation or even a book because there is no simple way to address &quot;all&quot; issues - it's just to wide area&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;but as the simple troubleshooting i would list it this way&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;is your printer alive so is it&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;working at all (check power, cables)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;communicate with the world (check app, drivers, cables)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;moving HE and heating HB (check jams, end-points, belts, screws)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;is it extruding (check heating, temperature, HE jams, filament path)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;if all above is &quot;yes&quot; then&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol start=&quot;2&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;is your printer making printouts and are those printouts&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;starts and continues (check heating HB, HB adhesion, leveling, cooling)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;finished at all (check all above again, stepsticks temerature)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;keeping the shape (check screws and nuts, couplings, stiffness, stability, temperatures)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;if all above is &quot;yes&quot; then in general you are half way ;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol start=&quot;3&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;common issues - printout is&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;bent or skewed (check geometry, stiffnes, leveling, belts, vibrations, stepsticks temerature)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;wrapped or overextruded (check temperature, extruding, printout angles)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;underextruded (check filament flow, filament path, stepsticks temerature)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;stringy (check temperatures, app settings)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;that is the main path i think. all above is more or less applicable to all DIY printers and all prusa clones and all clones of clones ;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;it can go wrong and fork in all possible moments as there is so many aspects to screw...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1211" LastActivityDate="2019-05-16T06:11:46.603" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9959" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9953" CreationDate="2019-05-16T06:33:51.407" Score="1" Body="&lt;h1&gt;The obvious ones first&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is, well, obvious. It is, what a visual and smell inspection shows. Stuff like missing or ruptured cables, bent rails, ripped or very loose belts, burnt smell or hung up software that is easy to see that it is going on needs to be addressed first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;The not so obvious next&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next on the list are problems that have no obvious cause and effect. My order of operations to find these is like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Homing&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;movement of XYZ&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bed leveling&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Heating test to 200 °C&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Extrusion of some millimeters&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Retract some millimeters&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That solves the basic mechanical side, it shows that the machine technically could print. It is a visual as well as audial inspection. It also prepares the printer for printing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;A test print next&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What's next, after having a machine that theoretically should be able to print is to print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Start with a simple thing. A cube for example. It shows problems with bed adhesion, surface finish, extrusion,  temperature, layer shifting and layer adhesion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Half of these problems are usually the result of temperature control. The rest but for layer shifting usually as a result of slicer settings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Layer shifting, the odd one out, most often would either be caused by a mechanical problem are using speeds which the printer can't cope with.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Surface imperfections like blobbing shows too much extrusion and heat.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ghosting so that the printer is resonating with its movement.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:29:41.667" LastActivityDate="2019-05-16T06:33:51.407" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9960" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9956" CreationDate="2019-05-16T07:18:08.413" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The problem with the Tevo Tornado design is that the design is as such that the Z-axis is powered by a single stepper (under the assumption that you have not added a second Z stepper).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This means that the level relies on the rigidity of the X-axis assembly, more specific the play on the guide wheels. Apparently the BL-Touch level determination suffers (the up and down movement while probing) from this design as can be seen from the tilt around the Y-axis direction. This effect causing the tilted level plane is called &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hysteresis&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;hysteresis&lt;/a&gt;. Now that the Z-axis moves up and down you experience much more problems than using a mechanical switch. The effect is more pronounced when the mass of the hot end carriage is furthest from the Z-axis lead screw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that an extra stepper can also cause tilted level when the second stepper does not move in sync (e.g. missing steps). In such designs, a single stepper (geared) belt driven 2 lead screw has better performance in that respect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-05-16T14:51:25.287" LastActivityDate="2019-05-16T14:51:25.287" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9961" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-05-16T10:01:19.793" Score="1" ViewCount="984" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently got my Anycubic Chiron. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First I was very exited and set up the printer. I started the first manual leveling as described in the instuctions. After that I did the Autoleveling and started the test print - so far so good. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After adjusting by 2&amp;nbsp;mm, further down I saw the round circle in the middle is not round and it seems that in some areas the printer does not position the nozzle correctly. As I printed a cylinder I saw the circle has two flat areas opposing each other when the build plate moves towards its end position. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anybody now how to fix this? Is there anybody with a Cura 4.0 Machine setting and a 0.05&amp;nbsp;mm with 0.4&amp;nbsp;mm nozzle profile?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16478" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2019-05-17T09:21:56.517" LastActivityDate="2019-05-17T09:21:56.517" Title="Anycubic Chiron does not print correctly" Tags="|print-quality|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9962" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9961" CreationDate="2019-05-16T10:49:09.093" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is impossible to give a definitive answer without photographic evidence, since your description of the problem does not give enough information. The most common causes of &quot;circular objects not printing correctly&quot; are loose belts and loose grub screws on the belt drive pulleys.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, you should note that the printer's firmware will not allow the print head to be moved outside the defined maximum printing area under software (g-code) control. This will cause large objects to be truncated if they extend outside of the defined maximum printing area, and I suspect that this is what is happening.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3953" LastActivityDate="2019-05-16T10:49:09.093" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9964" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8627" CreationDate="2019-05-16T15:53:38.507" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is nothing you can do to monitor the extruder stepper motor to assure that filament is being fed when it should be fed.  A common condition is where the filament binds but the extruder stepper continues to move as commanded.  The drive pully strips the dents it presses in the filament, and grinds down the filament.  The extruder still steps, and the filament does not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can reduce this for particular filaments by increasing the pressure on the filament by the drive pully, but the optimum pressure varies with the filament.  For instance, I've found that PET needs a lesser pressure than PLA.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;@User77232 suggests using a separate rotary encoder to detect the motion of the filament through a different sensor.  This may be better, since you can detect a filament jam with extruder motion.  If you are using a PTFE tube to deliver filament to the extruder, the encoder can be mounted at the other end of the tube.  You may need to make allowance for some compression and stretch of the filament in the tube, which could delay detecting &quot;lack of movement&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had hoped that the Triaminic TMC2100 chips (spec &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.trinamic.com/fileadmin/assets/Products/ICs_Documents/TMC2100_datasheet_Rev1.09.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;) would provide detection of drive torque by watching the back EMF, but reading the spec didn't look helpful.  There was an old patent (that should be long expired) that detected the current needed to move a stepper motor to achieve faster acceleration and quieter operation, but I didn't find on the Triaminic driver a useful torque limit signal.  If one could detect the torque required, one could set a peek torque value that is lower than the initial filament strip torque.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Perhaps one could mount the extruder stepper motor with a compliant mount, perhaps something like a TPU or rubber material, and use a strain gauge to measure the stretch of the mount.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2082" LastActivityDate="2019-05-16T15:53:38.507" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9965" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-05-16T20:43:10.453" Score="3" ViewCount="555" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am still using the originally-suggested version of Cura (for Ubuntu) for my Printrbot Metal Plus (NOT to be confused with the Simple Metal).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My printer was one of the ones with two print heads, and I'd like to make sure that configuring the new Cura software (mine is getting a bit odd due to age and possible slight incompatibility with the OS after all this time) goes correctly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, the new versions of Cura no longer list this printer, only having the Simple Metal in the list of preconfigured options.&#xA;How much might the manual &quot;add printer&quot; option break my configuration, and will anything cause actual damage to the printer (head/bed collisions, wrong axis measurements, etc)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or is there a way to copy the preset options from the old version to the new one? (NOT the .ini file that has MY saved configs, but the default file(s) that the setup wizard uses when opening the program and choosing a printer.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All the alt-text is showing as white, and I can't connect via USB anymore. I can't &lt;em&gt;quite&lt;/em&gt; confirm that it's due to it being old, but it's probably a good idea to update it by now, I assume.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[EDIT: My computer died, and took with it that old edition of cura. I have a replacement now, but I can't get that version anymore (to run or to get the settings out of). Does anyone have a list of settings or a config for say, PrusaSlicer or modern cura?]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user14313" LastEditorDisplayName="user14313" LastEditDate="2020-03-30T20:52:08.563" LastActivityDate="2020-03-30T20:52:08.563" Title="Printrbot Metal Plus with new Cura" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9966" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8709" CreationDate="2019-05-17T02:11:30.047" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You didn't say what type of bed you have, but I'm guessing glass. Do you have a BuildTak or comparable generic surface you could clip on and use? I've never had adhesion problems like this with my Ender 3, which came with a BuildTak clone; PLA just sticks, with no brim, no glue, no hairspray, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2019-05-17T02:11:30.047" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9967" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-05-17T03:32:44.123" Score="4" ViewCount="733" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am currently working with a hobbyist robotic arm (&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.ufactory.cc/#/en/uarmswift&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;uArm Swift Pro&lt;/a&gt;) which runs a modified version of Marlin 3D printing firmware. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The arm can be used as a 3D printer as well thus it has an extruder motor. I am not using it as a 3D printer, instead I am reusing the extruder motor as 4th axis to move the arm along a rail. The problem I have run into is that the extruder motor is accelerating in steps, that is accelerating up to a certain speed holds that speed for a while (1-2 s) and then accelerates up to a higher speed holds that for a while. It then decelerates in the same fashion. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So my question is where in the Marlin code is planing made for the E-axis and is it any different from planing the speed of the other axis? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16488" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2019-05-17T05:54:01.297" LastActivityDate="2019-05-17T08:01:26.057" Title="Using extruder motor as 4th axis" Tags="|marlin|arduino-mega-2650|arduino|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9969" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9967" CreationDate="2019-05-17T07:33:52.970" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Movement of the steppers is controlled by the &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinterwiki.info/faq/what-is-jerk-and-why-should-i-change-it/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;jerk&lt;/a&gt; and acceleration settings. Both are controlled/set in the Marlin &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/blob/1.1.x/Marlin/Configuration.h&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;configuration file&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;/**&#xA; * Default Max Acceleration (change/s) change = mm/s&#xA; * (Maximum start speed for accelerated moves)&#xA; * Override with M201&#xA; *                                      X, Y, Z, E0 [, E1[, E2[, E3[, E4]]]]&#xA; */&#xA;#define DEFAULT_MAX_ACCELERATION      { 3000, 3000, 100, 10000 }&#xA;&#xA;/**&#xA; * Default Acceleration (change/s) change = mm/s&#xA; * Override with M204&#xA; *&#xA; *   M204 P    Acceleration&#xA; *   M204 R    Retract Acceleration&#xA; *   M204 T    Travel Acceleration&#xA; */&#xA;#define DEFAULT_ACCELERATION          3000    // X, Y, Z and E acceleration for printing moves&#xA;#define DEFAULT_RETRACT_ACCELERATION  3000    // E acceleration for retracts&#xA;#define DEFAULT_TRAVEL_ACCELERATION   3000    // X, Y, Z acceleration for travel (non printing) moves&#xA;&#xA;/**&#xA; * Default Jerk (mm/s)&#xA; * Override with M205 X Y Z E&#xA; *&#xA; * &quot;Jerk&quot; specifies the minimum speed change that requires acceleration.&#xA; * When changing speed and direction, if the difference is less than the&#xA; * value set here, it may happen instantaneously.&#xA; */&#xA;#define DEFAULT_XJERK                 10.0&#xA;#define DEFAULT_YJERK                 10.0&#xA;#define DEFAULT_ZJERK                  0.3&#xA;#define DEFAULT_EJERK                  5.0&#xA;&#xA;/**&#xA;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-05-17T08:01:26.057" LastActivityDate="2019-05-17T08:01:26.057" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9970" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9972" CreationDate="2019-05-17T20:19:47.090" Score="6" ViewCount="1287" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Reprap Guru Prusa i3 v2 3D printer. &lt;a href=&quot;https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B4A3jLWIXeoFUVhJa25lcGl6Rzg/view&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Here&lt;/a&gt; is a link to the 192&amp;nbsp;MB manual. And &lt;a href=&quot;https://reprapguru.com/pages/resources&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; is the link to the resources page for the Reprap Guru. Page 58 of the manual discusses electronics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I purchased a 5.5&amp;nbsp;W laser from an online resource (AliExpress). It has its own controller module. It has one connector with 3 pins&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;12&amp;nbsp;V&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Gnd&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;PWM&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to now connect the laser module in-place of the 3D printer nozzle. I have been able to install it physically, but not sure how to connect it to the Reprap Guru Prusa i3 board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am not an electrical engineer, but I am capable of connecting wires with clear instructions. Any pointers on how to connect this module to the 3D printer board is appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Updates:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The board of my 3D printer is an Arduino Mega 2560 board.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I have been able to power the laser on using the fan connections and it can burn stuff (so it works). I have connected to the D9 pins&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Now need to figure out where to connect the PWM from the laser module to the Arduino Mega 2560 board&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16492" LastEditorUserId="16492" LastEditDate="2019-05-18T11:59:14.807" LastActivityDate="2019-10-02T13:41:32.213" Title="Add a laser module to Reprap Guru Prusa i3" Tags="|prusa-i3|g-code|ramps-1.4|wiring|laser|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9972" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9970" CreationDate="2019-05-18T05:36:40.233" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;By connecting to the D9 output header (see RAMPS 1.4 shield schematic below) you only have 2 wires that represent a scheduled load and ground. You actually need to connect the positive (red) lead to the power supply 12&amp;nbsp;V and the negative (black) lead to the ground. The third wire (usually a different color) needs to be connected to the actual D9 in your example; note that this one is connected to the MOSFET! And as such not readily available, it is far more easy to use an other free pin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just use the PWM pin (attached to the MOSFET) of the print cooling fan (that schedules the MOSFET), you can then schedule the laser power with G-code &lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#M106:_Fan_On&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;M106&lt;/a&gt;, e.g. &lt;code&gt;M106 S127&lt;/code&gt; to select half the power (&lt;code&gt;S255&lt;/code&gt; would be max power). Alternatively, and probably a much better solution is that you can use any free (but exposed) pin of your microprocessor; you can set the value of that pin using G-code &lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#M42:_Switch_I.2FO_pin&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;M42&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;M42 switches a general purpose I/O pin. Use M42 Px Sy to set pin x to value y, when omitting Px the LEDPIN will be used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only electrical wiring you need to do is to attach a wire (solder or connect to a header) to bundle that with a power and ground wire and route that to the laser module.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that the PWM pins of the Mega are numbered D2 through D13. Also, D44, D45 and D46 are also PWM capable. Checking the RAMPS 1.4 (the board/shield of the Reprap Guru) pinout, you will see that D8, D9 and D10 are used for the MOSFETs (and as such not easily available and would require soldering). E.g. D2 and D3 are used by the X max/min endstops (note that most printers don't use an X-max, so pin D2 may be free on your machine). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For your purpose, any of the following pins can be used: D2, D4-7, D&lt;strike&gt;11&lt;/strike&gt;12-13 and D44-46.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Best option would be the &lt;strike&gt;D11&lt;/strike&gt; pin (on second thoughts, D4 might be a much better option as the &lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?147,651203&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;timer associated with PWM on pin D11 is internally used&lt;/a&gt; in Marlin for generating interrupts); it has a pin you can connect to the SERVO header pin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The image shows the location of the pins:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/L83Ji.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/L83Ji.png&quot; alt=&quot;RAMPS pin layout&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An example to connect a laser module is seen in this image:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iCuKU.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iCuKU.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Wiring laser module to RAMPS D4 pin on AUX2&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-10-02T13:41:32.213" LastActivityDate="2019-10-02T13:41:32.213" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9973" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-05-18T13:56:47.227" Score="11" ViewCount="49212" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a new Creality Ender 3.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suspect that I have not adjusted the eccentric nuts correctly, on the X-axis head carriage mounts.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even after a glass bed upgrade, using the Level Corners routine of the TH3D firmware, I can get the head to scrape a sheet of paper all 4 corners but that same sheet of paper does not then scrape the head in the center, unless I fold that paper in half.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I could understand this if the rail on which the hot end travels is very slightly higher at the side opposite the extruder.  I have tried turning the eccentric nut on that side until the head does trap the paper, but when I then repeat the Level Corners routine, the gap at the center has come right back.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I already adjusted the eccentric nut on the extruder end because the wheels on the hot end carriage were showing an accumulation of brown dust in a ring around each wheel, which I heard was likely a sign that the carriage was &quot;too tight.&quot;&#xA;So basically, I am messing around with the eccentric nuts at both ends of the X-axis rail, chasing two problems at the same time, but I don't really know what I am doing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Recommendations?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16495" LastActivityDate="2021-10-12T16:58:39.180" Title="Why is the center of my glass print bed lower than the corners?" Tags="|creality-ender-3|bed-leveling|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9974" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8163" CreationDate="2019-05-18T15:07:14.763" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It will take longer to heat up. However if you use a &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B06XWSV89D&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;boost converter&lt;/a&gt; (like I did on my Anet A8 when I upgraded to a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.hot-end.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Maxiwatt&lt;/a&gt; 24&amp;nbsp;V hot end), then it will work just fine without any further adjustments; to the power supply or the gauges of the wire etc. I set the boost from 12 to 24 volts. Now my A8 heats up in 56 seconds!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12857" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-05-19T06:26:40.993" LastActivityDate="2019-05-19T06:26:40.993" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9975" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9976" CreationDate="2019-05-19T13:27:15.653" Score="3" ViewCount="125" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been thinking, SLS/SLM printers currently use a roller to spread 3d printing substrate, but wouldn't ultrasonic vibrations spread the substrate more cleanly, accurately, and with greater density than a roller?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16444" LastActivityDate="2019-05-19T16:06:01.183" Title="Could you use ultrasonic vibrations instead of a roller with an SLS/SLM printer?" Tags="|sls|slm|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9976" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9975" CreationDate="2019-05-19T15:15:11.470" Score="3" Body="&lt;h1&gt;No&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem is twofold. Resonance and Granular convection&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Resonance&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's start with an empty box. We toss in some powder to create the first layer and use an ultrasonic to create a first layer. What happens? The bed starts to resonate depending on the sound you send into it in patterns - and the powder starts to form valleys and ridges along them as one can see in &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wvJAgrUBF4w&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this video&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Granular Convection&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What happens if one shakes a box of fine granulate that contains larger items? &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Granular_convection&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Granular convection&lt;/a&gt; happens! All items raise simultaneously and the small items start to fall first, resulting in them getting under the larger ones, so as a result end up pushing the large items up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because of both effects, there won't be an even layer &lt;strong&gt;and&lt;/strong&gt; it would raise the items printed, even if we managed to get good layers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:29:41.667" LastActivityDate="2019-05-19T16:06:01.183" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9978" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9973" CreationDate="2019-05-19T19:54:46.307" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;This seems to be a common problem with ender-3 and cr-10 printers from Creality. Mine is the same way but not enough to keep prints from adhering. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Typically the aluminum bed is not perfectly flat. If it’s not the glass may be able to flex enough that it can make a difference. There are a few ways to try to fix it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Shim the low spots in the aluminum bed with aluminum foil or another thin material. Then the glass will sit on a flatter more well supported surface. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Bend the aluminum bed until it is flat.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Add a 5th leveling point under the middle of the bed. You could either make it adjustable which would be tricky to get to or create a support piece accurately or get one close and shim it. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The shimming process is probably the easiest and the one I may end up doing. But whether you shim it or do the other trick you need to measure for points that are out of flat. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you get a decent straightedge and some feeler gauges and/or or shine a bright light from the other side and look for spots of light between the straightedge and the aluminum bed you can see where you need to shim or otherwise adjust it. You’ll need to move it at various angles through the center and other spots on the bed. That way you can see whether it is just the middle or if the edges are an issue too. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, once you check the aluminum bed, check the glass as it may not be flat either.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There was a YouTube video on the cr-10 I think that showed part of the shimming process and checking for level. I’ll try to see if I can find it to add a link here. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I still didn't find the video I was looking for, but here is a useful related one that talks about tramming the bed (what 3d printing people call leveling)&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CcAmZqb-ZEE&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CcAmZqb-ZEE&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And here's a reddit thread about the issue. Someone incorrectly says the glass plate can't flex that much but it certainly can. We're talking small tolerances. Even granite slabs flex small amounts.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.reddit.com/r/CR10/comments/7d7gyh/aluminum_bed_warped_cant_get_it_to_do_anything/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.reddit.com/r/CR10/comments/7d7gyh/aluminum_bed_warped_cant_get_it_to_do_anything/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13841" LastEditorUserId="13841" LastEditDate="2019-05-19T23:25:36.540" LastActivityDate="2019-05-19T23:25:36.540" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9979" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-05-19T21:26:53.793" Score="3" ViewCount="183" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently took my first shot at printing with specialty filament -- &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.fargo3dprinting.com/products/entwined-hemp-filled-filament/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Entwined by 3-D Fuel&lt;/a&gt; -- on a Lulzbot TAZ having an 0.5mm nozzle. &lt;em&gt;(Note that this is the original Entwined, not the mid-2018 &quot;v2&quot; with smaller fibers; Just purchased from MicroCenter this weekend, and saw a 2017 production date when reading the label).&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While the filament in question can be reliably and consistently extruded at full speed (as with the &quot;Continuous Load&quot; button), I've repeatedly had it stop extruding partway through my prints. This is much worse with lower layer heights. Even when this has happened and several MM have been &quot;printed&quot; with no content, pausing the print, going to the load/unload menu, and telling it to extrude filament at full speed indicates that it's not by any means fully clogged, but only failing to extrude at the configured speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Where should I start in tuning to try to get a reliable print with this specialty material?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm using Cura LE 3.6.9 for slicing. The center item of the three below was printed at 210C, with the most successful at 0.25mm layer height (Cura's default of 0.1mm had far worse results -- not included in the below photo -- with the base layer almost not being there at all; 0.175 did somewhat better).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm using the bed heated to 45C, in line with the manufacturer's guidance (that a heated bed is optional, but should be set to 45-60C).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/e40bC.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/e40bC.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Samples of prints failed after first few layers&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16371" LastEditorUserId="16371" LastEditDate="2019-05-20T03:39:50.783" LastActivityDate="2019-05-20T03:39:50.783" Title="Entwined fiber-filled filament stops extruding after a few layers" Tags="|filament|ultimaker-cura|lulzbot|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9981" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9983" CreationDate="2019-05-20T00:35:25.887" Score="9" ViewCount="15473" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been looking at getting some painters tape to use on the glass plate for better print adhesion, and everything I read suggests the &lt;em&gt;blue&lt;/em&gt; painters tape, such as this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WNCHm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Blue painters tape&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WNCHm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Blue painters tape&quot; title=&quot;Blue painters tape&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, this white tape is considerably cheaper:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Kp92s.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;White painters tape&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Kp92s.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;White painters tape&quot; title=&quot;White painters tape&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This looks like normal masking tape to me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is masking tape ok, or is the blue painter's tape preferable? If the latter, then why is that so? What is so special about the blue tape? Is it a different material?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4762" LastActivityDate="2020-09-09T09:55:09.453" Title="Why does the painters tape have to be blue?" Tags="|adhesion|masking-tape|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9982" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9979" CreationDate="2019-05-20T03:09:38.710" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've managed to get a successful print! The key was to keep the material moving quickly. The settings I've customized are as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;Print Speed&lt;/em&gt;: 70 mm/s&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;Layer Height&lt;/em&gt;: 0.4 mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;Default Printing Temperature&lt;/em&gt;: 215C&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;...and perhaps not as necessarily:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;Shell Wall Thickness&lt;/em&gt;: 0.8 mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;Wall Line Count&lt;/em&gt;: 3&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;Alternate Extra Wall&lt;/em&gt;: True&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, I've found it important to print a skirt (perhaps a double-walled one), and watch the first-layer closely and be willing to push more material through and restart: The material in the hotend can easily form a partial clog while the printer runs through its auto-leveling / head-cleaning routine, thus needing to have more material pushed through before the job starts in earnest.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By the way, the model is &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1993747&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1993747&lt;/a&gt;, by Holodrio on Thingiverse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SPYG2.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SPYG2.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Successful print with Entwined&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16371" LastEditorUserId="16371" LastEditDate="2019-05-20T03:35:12.937" LastActivityDate="2019-05-20T03:35:12.937" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9983" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9981" CreationDate="2019-05-20T07:35:48.433" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Of course, I don't know what kind of tapes you have. My experience with blue tapes is, that they seem in general softer and &quot;nicer&quot; than white tapes. Their structure appears denser and they seem to have longer &quot;furs&quot; while the white ones are &quot;dryer&quot; and &quot;sharper&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This surface makes the blue tapes I sourced more suitable as the molten filament catches more furs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are magnified photos of my comparable tapes. Unfortunately, my microscope is pretty lame but at least we can take a look on closeups:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/b3h01.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/b3h01.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;white tape&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zhJeZ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zhJeZ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;blue tape&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This comparison shows the lower density of my white tape better:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Wm6Rb.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Wm6Rb.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;white over blue&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nwTLh.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nwTLh.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;white next to blue&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;to complete the picture here goes angle photos which reveals some more details&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Eus0N.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Eus0N.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rFzMO.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rFzMO.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;above shows that this white tape is made out of flat plastic fiber as they shine when illuminated from different angles&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;this could lead to another question&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;is such tape melted in any way in contact with extruded filament?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;worth to analyse...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1211" LastEditorUserId="1211" LastEditDate="2019-05-21T05:35:06.847" LastActivityDate="2019-05-21T05:35:06.847" CommentCount="14" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9984" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9981" CreationDate="2019-05-20T10:05:48.367" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;To answer your question, &lt;strong&gt;it doesn't&lt;/strong&gt; have to be &lt;strong&gt;blue&lt;/strong&gt; tape!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3lFoe.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3lFoe.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;White or cream tape on heated bed&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To be honest, tape is not &lt;strong&gt;my&lt;/strong&gt; favorite bed adhesion solution, there are plenty other options that work better than tape. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Often you'll see references to blue painters tape (of a certain brand) to be used as a bed adhesion layer because many people have good experience with that. I have tried several tapes, white/cream to blue from various vendors but found that neither of the tapes satisfied my personal needs. To name a few: cleaning, application, preparation, repair, tear-off, no glossy first layer, color of tape sticking to printed part, etc. did not make tape a favorite bed adhesion solution. Instead I've been printing directly onto aluminium and glass using an adhesive (3DLAC or DimaFix) to stick filament to the bed. Use a wet cloth to wipe residue off, spray can to apply a new layer, et voila, just print, it always sticks! Glue stick is also a possibility.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So while the community screams &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;&quot;use blue tape&quot;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;, you just cannot use &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;any&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; blue tape from any tape manufacturer. There is no standard to which blue tape has to comply. Generally, speaking from painting experience, many blue tapes release much more easily after use while the white/cream paper tape sticks better and often tears (but this is frequently the tape that is already applied on heated beds of many Chinese printer kits, see image above). Not all tapes are equal: I have used blue tape from a local cheap source that will not stick to the build plate when it heats up, even if properly cleaned. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm more inclined to think that the color of the tape is just a way to distinguish yourself from the market back when the first manufacturer introduced the tape. Now that it is more common, others have adopted the color mimicking the tape they want to copy. It is more about the adhesive than it is about the surface of the tape (as in: &quot;tape is rougher than the substrate you stick it on&quot;), also you read that many people using blue tape need to prepare it by cleaning it (remove waxy layer) and sanding it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;IMHO, you just need to experiment yourself with several solutions and see what works best for you, could be that the white/cream tape from a local source also does the job. So basically, your tape does not have to be &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;blue&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;, it has to &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;work&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-05-21T13:50:32.553" LastActivityDate="2019-05-21T13:50:32.553" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9985" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4120" CreationDate="2019-05-20T13:37:21.220" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I believe this is on-topic because it describes my experience using PVA in a Prusa i3m3-MMU2 machine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My experience has not been good.  I started with a new spool, and dried it between attempts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problems may be specific to the Prusa MMU2 printing process, but some are intrinsic in PVA, or at least the PVA filament I've been trying, PrimaSelect PVA+ (&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.3dprima.com/filaments/special-filament-1-75mm/primaselect-pva-1-75mm-500-g-natural/a-21893/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;link&lt;/a&gt; is for reference only.  I have no skin in this game.)  Aspects that may carry forward to non-MMU2 machines include: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;filament is very stringy, &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;filament is friable, and crumbles into the drive gear,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;filament does not adhere to a PEI bed.  I had to use Aqua Net hair spray.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;filament does not stick well to itself.  Stacks of support will have internal defects, which may affect the desired print.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;filament is very hygroscopic. With the MANY manual interventions needed with the MMU2, it may help to bake the filament in the middle of a multi-day print. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Perhaps unique to the Prusa i3m3-MMU2 machine, these lead to some specific problems:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the filament may be smaller diameter than 1.75, and it is sometimes&#xA;not detected by the filament-presence detectors.  This not only leads to failures, but it may also lead to large blobs of filament extruded into the purge towers, which leads to &quot;crashes&quot; and compounds the next problem.  This may also be because I have too much tension between the drive gears -- something to check.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the purge towers are weak where layers of the PVA overlay each other.  Purge towers may break during printing, which ruins the print.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the MMU2 filament drive gears are frequently fouled by PVA filament bits.  I haven't found, though, that cleaning them reduces feed problems.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the MMU2 system feeds filament through PTFE tubing.  Over time, perhaps with humidity, the friction of the filament passing through the tubes increases, which makes the feed problems worse.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is not a negative review of the filament itself, or of the Prusa i3m3-MMU2.  I may be doing something wrong, and would love to know better.  I am quite happy with the MMU2, and have tuned it so that it works very well with PLA filament.  This is the result of launching into soluble support, which is a feature I strongly hope to use reliably.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am still exploring alternatives.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2082" LastEditorUserId="2082" LastEditDate="2019-05-20T15:10:52.973" LastActivityDate="2019-05-20T15:10:52.973" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9986" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4120" CreationDate="2019-05-20T13:50:03.797" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not sure if frame challenge is on-topic here, but have you tried using different support options in your slicer? In Cura, I've found the experimental support tree mode both reduces the material usage a lot and gives supports that are easier to remove, at least for geometric (vs &quot;organic&quot;, where it's sometimes good and sometimes bad) models. Turning off walls for normal (non-tree) support (infill and roofing only) and/or using a thinner line width than your nozzle can also help with removal but whether it provides sufficient support depends a lot on your model's geometry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2019-05-20T13:50:03.797" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9987" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9981" CreationDate="2019-05-20T13:57:49.337" Score="15" Body="&lt;h1&gt;read first&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you use painters tape, you need to level your printer &lt;strong&gt;with&lt;/strong&gt; the tape applied. You need to relevel if you change the tape type.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Basics&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's not &lt;em&gt;any&lt;/em&gt; blue tape that printers love. There are basically two factors that make a tape useful:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It has to stick during printing.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Its surface has to allow the filament to stick to it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's look at some &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=2&amp;amp;v=GIEaOdKVCO8&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;different tapes&lt;/a&gt; and their suitability - from my own experience.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;ScotchBlue&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;em&gt;original&lt;/em&gt; blue tape is actually &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.scotchblue.com/3M/en_US/scotchblue/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;ScotchBlue&lt;/a&gt; for delicate surfaces by 3M. It has a good surface to stick to and at the same time an adhesive that does not degrade to unsuitability by heating. The delicate surface one is just as good as the all surfaces type. But don't use the outdoor type, it is sealed too much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;FrogTape&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.frogtape.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;FrogTape&lt;/a&gt; has an adhesive that has no problems with heating, the surface is sometimes a little smoother. Its green variant is about as useful as ScotchBlue, while the yellow variant is easier to remove - which can be an issue when the printhead is not calibrated correctly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Generic painters tape&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Generic&lt;/em&gt; painters tape is a can of worms - there are so many different ones it is hard to describe. I have had very good off-yellow rolls from the dollar store of the 'fine surface' type - as in the tape had a fine surface - and their adhesive was good and didn't degrade too much under heat. The followup roll was a little thinner of material and released under heat so it can be a hit and miss - it's ok for starting out though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also tried a roll of UHU painters tape of the &lt;em&gt;easy remove&lt;/em&gt; type and it was &lt;em&gt;horrible&lt;/em&gt;, as it didn't want to stick after the nozzle went over it once even on an unheated bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Generic blue colored tape&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I even tried two blue colored tapes from different dollar/hobby stores. One was ok-ish and had a similar result as the good dollar store tape in look, but left a blue shadow on the base of the print after two or three prints. The other was showing similar behavior to other mild-adhesive/easy peel tapes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Conclusion&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's not &lt;em&gt;color&lt;/em&gt; that matters, it is the &lt;em&gt;formulation&lt;/em&gt;. If you must use blue tape, spend the extra bucks for quality. Some bloggers &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting-blog.com/61-trying-out-different-kinds-of-tapes-for-3d-printing-on/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;compared other tapes&lt;/a&gt;, tested &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.3dprinterprices.net/kapton-tape-vs-blue-painters-tape/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;ScotchBlue vs Kapton&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;https://all3dp.com/2/3d-printer-tape-the-best-tape-for-better-adhesion/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;discussed the benefits of either&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.desiquintans.com/bluetape&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;discussed the ScotchBlue tape in depth&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While in general, I prefer to print on the surface of my (blue) BuildTak (clone), I occasionally whip out painters tape on an unheated surface for very delicate prints: I remove the print together with the tape from the surface, which allows better handling. Sacrificing a layer of tape only costs some cents after all while breaking a print is hours and filament for much more  money wasted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2020-09-09T09:55:09.453" LastActivityDate="2020-09-09T09:55:09.453" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9988" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9981" CreationDate="2019-05-20T14:28:08.360" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The second image isn't exactly painter's tape. Both images are types of masking tape, but the common manila/cream-colored masking tape vs the blue or green painter's tape &lt;em&gt;typically&lt;/em&gt; has three features that make it less desirable for bed adhesion:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Stronger glue holding the tape to the bed, that will make it harder to change later.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Narrower strips, so it's harder and takes longer to place the tape on the bed.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Thicker, softer material. This is &lt;em&gt;good&lt;/em&gt; for filament adhesion, but bad for separating from the filament after the print and accurately leveling the bed.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Again: those are only typical arrangements. You can get blue painters tape at the same narrow width as manila masking tape, and you can get wider or thin manila tape. It's more a matter of what you'll commonly find for sale, and in all probability the manila/cream-colored tape will work just fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12562" LastEditorUserId="12562" LastEditDate="2019-05-20T18:56:34.213" LastActivityDate="2019-05-20T18:56:34.213" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9989" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-05-20T18:39:48.957" Score="2" ViewCount="1335" Body="&lt;p&gt;I made a simple logo using Inkscape, after saving as an svg file, but when I export that file into Fusion 360 something strange happened.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Multiple times I convert some images (png, svg) to svg file. The process I use is this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Scan logo image (scanner or smartphone)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Open image with Inkscape&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Using the stroke, generate the shape&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;All process for generate and save&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This process explained above always works for me, when I copy the shape using the &lt;em&gt;stroke&lt;/em&gt; in Inkscape.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, when I was do the process using the &lt;em&gt;shape generator&lt;/em&gt; - for example, rectangles, circles, squares, etc. - and export the file into the Fusion 360, it doesn't work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;1 - Inkscape logo&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eA3Wz.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Inkscape&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eA3Wz.png&quot; alt=&quot;inkscape&quot; title=&quot;Inkscape&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;2 - Logo import to Fusion 360&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9vskK.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Import into Fusion 360&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9vskK.png&quot; alt=&quot;Import into Fusion 360&quot; title=&quot;Import into Fusion 360&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the example above, the first word does not appear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12715" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:29:41.667" LastActivityDate="2019-05-23T03:20:33.690" Title="What is the correct way to export SVG in order to convert to STL?" Tags="|3d-design|stl|fusion360|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9990" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9989" CreationDate="2019-05-20T18:48:34.010" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Considering the simplicity of your sample design - i.e. basically only two different Z-levels, easily distinguished by color - I'd recommend one of the online image-to-3D model converters.  Here are two I've used now and then.  You may have to save your image as png or jpg instead of svg.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.selva3d.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;selva3d&lt;/a&gt;   and &lt;a href=&quot;http://3dp.rocks/lithophane/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;3dp.rocks&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2191" LastActivityDate="2019-05-20T18:48:34.010" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9991" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9999" CreationDate="2019-05-20T22:21:36.067" Score="6" ViewCount="10066" Body="&lt;p&gt;I’m designing a part that will need to be autoclaved—it will be under steam at 121°C for about 15 min per job and I will want it to be able to go through the autoclave repeatedly. I ran a test PLA part through the autoclave and it warped noticeably; based on their glass transition temperatures, ABS (105ºC) and PETG (80ºC) would probably also not hold up. For a consumer-grade FDM printer, what filament materials that could be used for parts that could be autoclaved?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16450" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2019-05-22T02:16:51.530" LastActivityDate="2020-05-22T22:12:30.757" Title="Material for autoclave-able part" Tags="|filament-choice|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9992" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9953" CreationDate="2019-05-21T02:02:19.623" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Assuming there's &lt;em&gt;something&lt;/em&gt; on the print bed, I usually look at at what the result is to determine what to check on the printer next.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Before doing anything physical with the printer, check your settings. You should have a decent understanding of what changes what and how the different numbers affect the print, as well as what they &quot;should&quot; be. Review them and make sure there's nothing that looks out of whack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Now for the specifics:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it looks like the filament didn't extrude right, for example if it stopped extruding halfway, barely extruded at all, or there's gaps in the print, I would check the hotend. Reload the filament and push it through by hand to make sure it's not jammed. If the nozzle is fine and it still looks like you're having extrusion issues, I would check the following things:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wiring to the motor&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Excess tension on the filament before it goes into the extruder (bowden/guide tubes, etc.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The nozzle itself. Nozzles do wear out and they're relatively inexpensive so if I can't solve an extrusion issue with reloading the filament, the next thing I do is replace the nozzle.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For mechanical issues, it's a little more complicated. The very first thing I do is pluck the belts on my printers and make sure they're tight. It should play a low note somewhere around a G. If it's a thud, the belt is too loose. If it's a really high sound, the belt is probably too tight. Another thing I check is to make sure all linearly moving parts (such as the print bed, carriages for the nozzle, etc.) only move in the direction they are supposed to. Wiggle them back and forth and make sure nothing is loose on the printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't find anything that would obviously indicate what the problem is, run the print again and watch it closely. If it's only messing up in a certain part of a print, make sure you watch what the printer is doing when it gets to those areas. Make note of the nozzle distance to the bed at startup, retraction and hopping during prints, and making sure no wires or anything are getting snagged. Listen to the printer too, if it's making any new noises such as clicking or grinding then you most likely have a problem on your hands.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16515" LastActivityDate="2019-05-21T02:02:19.623" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9993" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-05-21T09:14:37.633" Score="2" ViewCount="256" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is not entirely a 3D printing question, but closely related since I want to print parts for a prototype.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem : I need to create a mechanism with 2 parallel shafts, at some distance apart, rotating in the same direction, either clock- or anticlock-wise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The distance (&gt; 1m) makes it impractical to set a chain of gears between the shafts, so my approach is to have a third shaft at 90 degrees with bevel gears; the driving motor will attach to this third shaft.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not being a mechanical engineer, I tried to understand a bit more about bevel gears, and found out there are straight, spiral and other types. For printing I came across a very good OpenSCAD script that creates bevel gears with angled teeth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lrMux.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lrMux.png&quot; alt=&quot;bevel gears with angled teeth&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So here's the 1st question : for any type of bevel gear except the straight ones, does the geometry of the teeth impact on the direction of rotation ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since I don't want different rotation speeds on the parallel shafts, and there is no constraint of the rotation speed of the third, my plan is to create gears with identical sizes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2nd question : Should I use larger or smaller gears ? What's the impact of the number of teeth on the gear operation for the bevel gears ? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And last, but not least, any hints, comments or suggestions on printing the gears is appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you all in advance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14338" LastActivityDate="2019-05-21T09:14:37.633" Title="3D Printing bevel gears" Tags="|3d-models|3d-design|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="8" ClosedDate="2019-05-21T15:56:20.157" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9994" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9995" CreationDate="2019-05-21T13:26:03.870" Score="2" ViewCount="841" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just bought and build my first 3d printer (HE3D K280 with Marlin) and I'm encountering some problems with Cura 4 and Repetier. When I load and slice a part, the printer does not extrude anything during printing. However, when I manually extrude like 100mm (G1 F100 E100) it does work. Now I'm suspecting the problem lies with the gcode file which is generated with Cura since it contains very small values for E:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt; ;Layer height: 0.2&#xA; ;Generated with Cura_SteamEngine 4.0.0&#xA; M140 S60&#xA; M105&#xA; M190 S60&#xA; M104 S200&#xA; M105&#xA; M109 S200&#xA; M82 ;absolute extrusion mode&#xA; G28 ;Home&#xA; G1 Z15.0 F6000 ;Move the platform down 15mm&#xA; ;Prime the extruder&#xA; G92 E0&#xA; G1 F200 E3&#xA; G92 E0&#xA; G92 E0&#xA; G1 F1500 E-6.5&#xA;&#xA;;LAYER_COUNT:250&#xA;;LAYER:0&#xA;M107&#xA;G0 F3600 X-7.753 Y4.378 Z0.3&#xA;;TYPE:SKIRT&#xA;G1 F1500 E0&#xA;G1 F1800 X-8.127 Y3.918 E0.01115&#xA;G1 X-8.35 Y3.57 E0.01893&#xA;G1 X-9.088 Y2.287 E0.04677&#xA;G1 X-9.348 Y1.754 E0.05792&#xA;G1 X-9.483 Y1.376 E0.06547&#xA;G1 X-11.413 Y-4.956 E0.18999&#xA;G1 X-11.547 Y-5.534 E0.20115&#xA;G1 X-11.602 Y-6.124 E0.2123&#xA;Etc...&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know how to fix this? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16522" LastActivityDate="2019-06-06T07:08:42.843" Title="No extrusion, but manual extrusion works" Tags="|filament|extruder|ultimaker-cura|extrusion|repetier|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9995" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9994" CreationDate="2019-05-21T14:25:25.893" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think that you have the incorrect diameter specified (e.g. 2.85 mm instead of 1.75 mm) in your slicer; this also appears from a calculation, see below. Note that you can calculate from extruded volume entering the hotend, or deposited volume. For the first you could calculate the line width of the deposited line and verify that with the settings; from the second you can verify if the volume for the extruded filament equals filament volume based on extruded filament going into the hotend for an assumed line width. Do note that (&lt;a href=&quot;/a/10184/&quot;&gt;certainly for first layers!&lt;/a&gt;) modifiers may be in place. This is merely to get a ballpark feeling for the chosen filament diameter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you look at the first move from:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;G0 F3600 X-7.753 Y4.378 Z0.3&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;to:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;G1 F1800 X-8.127 Y3.918 E0.01115&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can calculate the travelled distance &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$ s = \sqrt{{\Delta X}^2+{\Delta Y}^2} = 0.59\ mm$&lt;/span&gt;. Also, from these moves you can see that &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$0.01115\ mm$&lt;/span&gt; of filament enters the extruder &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$(E)$&lt;/span&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The deposited volume (&lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$V_{extruded_filament}$&lt;/span&gt;) of the printed line  equals the &lt;code&gt;cross sectional area&lt;/code&gt; &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$\times$&lt;/span&gt; &lt;code&gt;length of the deposited filament path&lt;/code&gt;. Area could be defined as taken from e.g. &lt;a href=&quot;https://manual.slic3r.org/advanced/flow-math&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;the Slic3r reference manual&lt;/a&gt; to be: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gmcm5.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gmcm5.png&quot; alt=&quot;Area of a deposited thermoplastic line&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically (as we apply &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Conservation_of_mass&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;conservation of mass&lt;/a&gt;) the filament volume &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$(V_{filament})$&lt;/span&gt; entering the hotend need to be the same as the extruded filament volume &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$(V_{extruded_filament})$&lt;/span&gt; leaving the nozzle; so &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$ A_{filament}\times E = A_{extruded\ filament}\times s $&lt;/span&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This latter equation can be solved for &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$w$&lt;/span&gt; by filling out the known parameters. From this calculation follows that for &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$1.75\ mm$&lt;/span&gt; filament you get a calculated line width of about &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$0.22\ mm$&lt;/span&gt;, and respectively for &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$2.85\ mm$&lt;/span&gt; filament you get &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$0.46\ mm$&lt;/span&gt; line widths.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As the nozzle diameter has not been specified in the question, but most commonly used nozzle diameter often is &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$0.4\ mm$&lt;/span&gt;, and modifiers for the first layer are at play to print thicker lines; you most probably have the have the wrong filament diameter set if you have a &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$1.75\ mm$&lt;/span&gt; extruder setup. Basically it under-extrudes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-06-06T07:08:42.843" LastActivityDate="2019-06-06T07:08:42.843" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9996" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10099" CreationDate="2019-05-21T17:35:11.247" Score="3" ViewCount="597" Body="&lt;p&gt;I got some Prusa i3 clones with Melzi boards with Marlin, or nearly so. One of them performed very well (considering that the board would reboot whenever power was applied to the build plate. But I digress) until finally the hot end failed, possibly due to me running it for two days with little respite. The replacement, a typical MK8 clone, installed almost painlessly but failed to start due to over-temperature conditions (we're talking as much as 45&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C over set temperature).  I tried the known solutions, continually reducing my P value (got down to 7 before I gave up) and attempting autotune. I also tried autotuning to both higher (230&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C) and lower (150&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C) temperatures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;None of these seemed to produce an autotune successfully, and the same error message &lt;code&gt;temp to[sic] high&lt;/code&gt; appeared in all cases. Can anyone suggest something besides a new hot end (I have one on order, but what if I have the same problem with another new one)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16512" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-12-17T06:22:52.833" LastActivityDate="2019-12-17T06:22:52.833" Title="PID autotune fails under all conditions so far. Any ideas I haven't tried?" Tags="|prusa-i3|hotend|pid|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9997" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9989" CreationDate="2019-05-21T18:49:59.883" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It seems you use Fusion 360. So I will answer for that, based on &lt;a href=&quot;https://knowledge.autodesk.com/support/fusion-360/learn-explore/caas/sfdcarticles/sfdcarticles/How-to-import-SVG-files-in-Fusion-360.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Autodesk Help&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Make the SVG&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You need to design your SVG to be &lt;strong&gt;just&lt;/strong&gt; the &lt;strong&gt;outlines&lt;/strong&gt; of your logo. That you can easily do in Inkscape by &lt;a href=&quot;https://graphicdesign.stackexchange.com/a/67532&quot;&gt;setting the fill to transparent&lt;/a&gt;. Then you need to define a size before &lt;a href=&quot;https://gist.github.com/brenopolanski/46cd370d634a1709aa8a58e55cfc9a03&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;exporting&lt;/a&gt; it properly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Import the SVG&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;code&gt;Insert&lt;/code&gt; Menu&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;code&gt;Insert SVG&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Select the plane you want to put the SVG on&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Select the folder icon&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;choose the SVG&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;adjust the sizing and positioning&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;code&gt;OK&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2019-05-23T03:20:33.690" LastActivityDate="2019-05-23T03:20:33.690" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9998" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-05-21T19:55:34.157" Score="0" ViewCount="1483" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've added a G29 command in my starting script to do bed leveling process before every print. It works fine and compensates my bed during prints. But when I print larger models, they're all skewed in both XZ and YZ plane. So I decided to use Marlin's Skew Correction option.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I printed &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2563185&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Calibration Squares&lt;/a&gt; and entered measurements for XZ and YZ plane. I left XY corrections as default (Because I have no problem in this plane).&#xA;Unfortunately it sounds like Bed-Leveling and Skew-Correction don't get along! Many different problems happen!!!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I get &quot;Probing failed&quot; error.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Z-axis doesn't move (moves for compensating but not for new layer)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bed-Leveling process fails sometimes.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;bed center (X=0,Y=0) gets shifted...&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a bug in Marlin? Or I have to find another way to correct my XZ and YZ skew-ness ?!?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13700" LastActivityDate="2019-05-21T19:55:34.157" Title="Marlin Bed-Leveling Vs Skew Correction" Tags="|marlin|bed-leveling|z-probe|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9999" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9991" CreationDate="2019-05-22T04:03:30.737" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;It might seem that common 3D printer materials such as PLA and ABS should be capable of being autoclaved—unfortunately. However, although their melting temperatures are higher than autoclave temperature (typically 121ºC), their glass transition temperatures are below that limit so they can warp or undergo creep deformation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sterilization of numerous plastics is described &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.industrialspec.com/resources/plastics-sterilization-compatibility/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;, with PLA, ABS, and PET all being described as &quot;poor&quot; for autoclaving. For each &quot;good&quot; material on that list, I looked for filament by Googling and consulting material guides from &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.prusa3d.com/material-guides/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Prusa&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.matterhackers.com/3d-printer-filament-compare&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Matter Hackers&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Polypropylene (PP) or acetal (POM, also known as Delrin) are the best choices. Filament is available for PEEK, PEI (ULTEM), FEP, PPSU, and PPS but these filaments are expensive (&gt;$100/kg) and require high extruder temperatures (&gt;300ºC).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In contrast, PP is about $50/kg and uses an extruder temperature of 254ºC; POM is similarly priced and uses an extruder temperature of 210ºC. Nylon (depending on the exact type) and HT-PLA may also be worth considering.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;High temperature&quot; filaments are not worthwhile for this application. Again, they're expensive and, more significantly, do not work well with consumer-grade 3D printers. For example, the upper limit for a Prusa i3 MK3s is about 280ºC—the thermistor only is good up to that temperature. Higher temperatures would require swapping out sensors and modifying firmware and building an enclosure. &lt;a href=&quot;https://forum.prusaprinters.org/forum/original-prusa-i3-mk2.5s-mk2.5-how-do-i-print-this-printing-help/can-i-use-pps-filament-on-my-printer/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;It's been done&lt;/a&gt;. Printers designed for high-temperature filaments easily cost &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.aniwaa.com/best-peek-3d-printer-pei-ultem/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;thousands of dollars&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This question was previously asked on &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/comments/9l8gao/what_filament_would_hold_up_to_regular/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Reddit&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/comments/3caivh/question_about_autoclavable_plastic_for_3d/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;a few times&lt;/a&gt; but this analysis is more comprehensive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16450" LastActivityDate="2019-05-22T04:03:30.737" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10000" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-05-22T05:27:53.360" Score="1" ViewCount="134" Body="&lt;p&gt;I friend of mine is in need to have human bone printed for educational purpose. Of what I understood they will use it for practicing drilling in it and thus need the printed bone to mimic a real bone. He specified that he wanted them as hollow as possible and with the same (or close to the) density of real bone&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there anyone who had done a similar print, what material did you choose and how much infill/perimiter-layer did you use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16488" LastEditorUserId="3953" LastEditDate="2019-05-22T10:24:32.490" LastActivityDate="2019-05-23T00:33:41.520" Title="PLA infill/perimeter-layer to mimic real bone hardness" Tags="|slic3r|material|medical|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10001" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-05-22T10:56:06.283" Score="1" ViewCount="394" Body="&lt;p&gt;Say if one were to use foodsafe and or medical grade materials, would (m)SLA print be any less hazardous than one created with FFF printer, being eventually suscectible to bacteria buildup? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16532" LastActivityDate="2020-02-18T00:02:55.303" Title="Are SLA prints also susceptible to say microbes like FFF prints are with the microscopic flaws?" Tags="|fdm|sla|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10003" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-05-22T16:38:32.120" Score="1" ViewCount="1545" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recall hearing claims that the Ender 3 (maybe only newer units?) has a narrower Bowden tube than some printers that helps with flexible materials, but I can't find any authoritative figures. Does it come with a standard 2 mm ID tube that would likely benefit from replacement with a 1.9 mm or smaller (Capricorn one seems popular), or is the stock tube already comparable with these lower-clearance ones? I'm looking to improve speed and quality with flexible filaments and trying to determine if upgrading (and at the same time, shortening) the Bowden tube is a worthwhile direction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-12-02T22:45:45.187" LastActivityDate="2020-12-02T22:47:15.157" Title="Ender 3 stock Bowden tube inner diameter? Worth upgrading?" Tags="|creality-ender-3|bowden|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10004" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-05-23T00:14:25.290" Score="0" ViewCount="315" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Reprap Guru Prusa i3 v2 3D printer. To this I added a 5.5 W laser that I purchased online. The board of my 3D printer is an Arduino Mega 2560 board with Ramp 1.4.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have connected my laser power to the 12 V power supply on the board and the PWM pin to D4 pin on the Ramp 1.4 board. I am now able to control the laser with &lt;code&gt;M42 P4 S0&lt;/code&gt; (turn off) and  &lt;code&gt;M42 P4 S255&lt;/code&gt; (turn on).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have not had any success is being able to burn a grayscale image. Everything I am burning just looks like random strokes. also nothing is ever grayscale. The laser always runs at full power. Here is what I believe my issues are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The software I am using is not adding the &lt;code&gt;SXXX&lt;/code&gt; to control the PWM (I am using Inkscape with &lt;code&gt;Raster 2 Laser Gcode generator&lt;/code&gt; plugin.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Maybe I'm not using the software correctly&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I've tried using LaserGBRL but could never get it connected and I have no idea if my Arduino supports GBRL.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My Questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How do I properly control the power output of my laser for burning grayscale images.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is there a &quot;good&quot; software that you would recommend for a beginner?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16492" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-05-23T06:20:10.127" LastActivityDate="2019-05-23T06:20:10.127" Title="Grayscale laser engraving with Ramp1.4" Tags="|prusa-i3|marlin|ramps-1.4|laser|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10005" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10000" CreationDate="2019-05-23T00:33:41.520" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Generally, if you care about achieving a specific structure inside the &quot;interior&quot; part of a model to be printed, that structure needs to be &lt;em&gt;part of your model&lt;/em&gt; rather than generated by a slicer. If it were me, I would programmatically generate a generic pattern for the pockets of hollowness in OpenSCAD over a region slightly larger than the bone, then subtract it from the solid bone. After that, slicer settings will be mostly irrelevant since it will be constrained by reproducing the layer outlines with lots of holes in them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I haven't done this, or anything really comparable, but it should work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2019-05-23T00:33:41.520" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10006" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4824" CreationDate="2019-05-23T04:20:21.007" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Depending on your G-code flavor you may be able to use &lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#M109:_Set_Extruder_Temperature_and_Wait&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;code&gt;M109&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/a&gt; (heat and wait) instead. If supported M109 will wait until the target temperature is achieved.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16541" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-05-23T13:47:52.490" LastActivityDate="2019-05-23T13:47:52.490" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10007" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8709" CreationDate="2019-05-23T14:43:20.057" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Print at 5% of the print speed, and ramp up cooling to 100%. This should give the plastic time to shrink and adhere to the bed. If not then use a raft.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12857" LastActivityDate="2019-05-23T14:43:20.057" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10008" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-05-23T16:53:19.307" Score="0" ViewCount="310" Body="&lt;p&gt;Has anyone made a cover for their 3D printer?&#xA;Edit: What kind of Max temperature should be allowed? From the comments, I understand the control board and power supply should be outside the enclosure.  I don't see a way to have the stepper motors outside. I do have a thermocouple probe and can monitor the temperature inside the enclosure; what can the motors be allowed to go up to?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a Migbot i3 (prusa clone), looks like it will need a 24&amp;quot; x 24&amp;quot; x 16&amp;quot; cover (leaves room to put a spool on a holder inside also).  I bought some 18&amp;quot; x 24&amp;quot; polycarbonate sheets to make a square box, but it's looking like it will be a bigger project than it was to get the printer running! I need to cut one down to 6&amp;quot; and join it length wise to  get a full 24&amp;quot; for the top. And then print a bunch of corner blocks and drill holes for screws/nuts to secure it all together. Maybe make the front hinge up to lay on top to access the bed and the reel and the finished pieces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm  hoping the cover will block out some of the fan and motor movement noise, and as a side benefit keep cat fur &amp;amp; dust out of the mechanism, and perhaps even help keep the ambient temperature a little more even. I'm not sure that ambient temperature drifting makes much difference with PLA, but ABS is allegedly sensitive to that, and perhaps other materials as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit 5/25/19: Well, I went ahead built one, it's nearing completion. Found 18x24&amp;quot; Lexan polycarbonate sheets, and printed up corner brackets from thingiverse. Top back has a 6&amp;quot; wide space I can hinge up like the front cover to allow more airflow should things get too warm from the power supply or the 0.4mm nozzle. Have been printing PLA on a cold bed with Vertex PEI material clamped on it (waiting for WhamBam system with spring steel and PEX material, couple weeks out on delivery).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will be securing it to a base so it doesn't get knocked off the folding work bench (again). Some wood added inside for some stiffness, the Lexan is kind of wobbly in big pieces like that.&#xA;Looking at some magnets to replace the wing nuts/screws on the front cover, they're kind awkward to undo.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Taking off the Lexan protective film soon, might wait until securing to a base piece of wood is worked out. Think I have some thin OSB in the garage left over from another project.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit 5/26/19:  Printed an hour+ component with doors closed and thermocouple hanging below the LCD screen. Minimal temp rise seen, just 3-4 degreeC, with ambient room temperature also rising some as the sun rose. Printing PLA on unheated bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also changed door closure to have magnets hold closed door in place, works very nice. Wing nuts worked well, but screws stuck out and were hard to open once the screws went thru the door.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(not sure why these are rotated right 90 degrees, they looked fine when I cropped them on my PC)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Kj1QJ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Enclosure with front closed&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Kj1QJ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Enclosure with front closed&quot; title=&quot;Enclosure with front closed&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RF2fC.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Enclosure with front open&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RF2fC.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Enclosure with front open&quot; title=&quot;Enclosure with front open&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16523" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2021-09-25T17:09:07.950" LastActivityDate="2021-09-25T17:09:07.950" Title="Printer cover for noise abatement, cleanliness, temperature control" Tags="|enclosure|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ClosedDate="2019-05-25T17:38:37.970" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10009" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10001" CreationDate="2019-05-23T23:17:40.053" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The best information I could find was &lt;a href=&quot;https://formlabs.com/blog/guide-to-food-safe-3d-printing/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this article from Formlabs&lt;/a&gt; about food safe 3d printing. It has a fairly detailed discussion of the different food safe requirements and the conclusion basically is that SLA prints are not food safe by default and can create conditions for mold and bacteria growth. SLA resins are toxic when uncured.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The article goes on to list a few options that can increase the food safety of printed objects. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Dipping in a food safe coating such as a food grade epoxy or polyurethane. But it does note that this may not make the object food safe as the coating may be compromised.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Making a mold from the 3d printed part and using the mold for food contact.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Electroplating the printed object with metal.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Printing with ceramic filled resins, burning out the resin in a kiln, and glazing the part with food safe glaze.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13841" LastActivityDate="2019-05-23T23:17:40.053" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10010" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10741" CreationDate="2019-05-24T01:30:45.453" Score="7" ViewCount="640" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am using LightBurn to laser engrave on wood. I am just trying to print some letters. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the softwares preview the output looks correct. The black part is where the laser should burn and the red part are traversal/scan lines&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nLs8P.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nLs8P.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When i actually print it the negative space is burnt by the laser (basically where the traversal/scan lines are shown in the preview above)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DjRPw.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DjRPw.png&quot; alt=&quot;&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I was able to figure out is that:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;code&gt;M42 P4 S255&lt;/code&gt; properly turns on the laser when I send this command on its own,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;code&gt;M42 P4 S0&lt;/code&gt; properly turns off the laser.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But the issue is when I send the following G-code, the following happens:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;M42 P4 S255 &amp;lt;--- Laser turns on for a flash of a second&#xA;G1 X15 &amp;lt;--- By the time the movement starts the laser is already off.&#xA;M42 P4 S0&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When i stopped using PWM (via the D11) and instead connected directly to D9 (which is for the fan) this issue stops occurring. So this issue is only occurring when I use PWM. Any Guidance on what to check&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update:&lt;/strong&gt; I read the following on another forum. This might be the root cause here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;M42 is an immediate command and would turn on the laser before it reached its intended start point, M106 and M107 are buffered so the on/off can happen in its intended locations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16492" LastEditorUserId="16492" LastEditDate="2019-08-01T16:44:50.397" LastActivityDate="2020-01-28T21:53:24.943" Title="laser is engraving the negative space" Tags="|g-code|laser|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10011" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-05-24T04:31:40.387" Score="2" ViewCount="553" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been attempting to get my Anet to print for a couple months now. Haven't had a huge amount of time but when I have I've worked on it. A lot of the problems I have had I have been able to trouble shoot, for example for a while I was unable to get any filament to lay, and I have since fixed this issue. Now however my filament will extrude but it is very spacey, and not solid. I have tried re-calibrating the bed, un-clogging the extruder, and increasing the flow rate but nothing works. Is it possible that I have a bad board and that is causing my problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/k9Hj6.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Failed print&quot; title=&quot;Failed print&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16549" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2019-05-26T16:49:05.303" LastActivityDate="2019-08-02T07:31:49.063" Title="Anet A8 inconsistent filament flow" Tags="|print-quality|anet-a8|underextrusion|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ClosedDate="2019-08-02T11:26:18.637" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10013" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10188" CreationDate="2019-05-24T07:56:30.933" Score="1" ViewCount="8782" Body="&lt;p&gt;Please check following image, Dog looks smooth from left side but its rough from right side , similar on back too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What could have caused this ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can it be due to moisture due to Air Conditioner in my room ?&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/u3VOP.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/u3VOP.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;dog pic&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16553" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2019-05-24T13:39:42.143" LastActivityDate="2019-06-06T04:01:45.233" Title="Ender 3 first print some area is smooth but some is rough?" Tags="|print-quality|creality-ender-3|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10017" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10013" CreationDate="2019-05-24T13:05:54.913" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is most likely caused by inadequate part-cooling due to poor air-flow. Fit a [better] part cooling fan. There are plenty of designs on Thingiverse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may also be able to resolve the issue by adjusting the printing temperature, but the easiest solution is to install a good part-cooling fan.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3953" LastActivityDate="2019-05-24T13:05:54.913" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10018" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-05-24T13:09:46.600" Score="2" ViewCount="53" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been using Slic3r for a while now, and for the most part am happy with the results it produces. I mostly use the standard profiles provided by Prusa for my i3 mk3.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, when watching the 3D printer at work, executing GCODE produced by Slic3r, I notice that frequently the printer makes large travel moves, deposits an absolutely tiny amount of material and does this several times in a row. Sometimes this is so small, barely any material actually comes out of the extruder. I'm convinced the end result would be no different if these operations were simply skipped. In some instances it might even improve print quality, due to reduced stringing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It strikes me that print time and printer wear-and-tear could be significantly reduced if there was an option to simply skip deposits of material below a certain threshold of volume.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Despite having gone through all the Slic3r options, I've never found something which does this, unless there is a way to achieve it with some combination of settings which I have not understood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is therefore: how can I tell Slic3r not to make individual material deposit moves, below a certain volume?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7405" LastActivityDate="2019-05-29T13:08:50.503" Title="Minimum material deposit threshold in slic3r" Tags="|slicing|slic3r|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10020" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10008" CreationDate="2019-05-24T18:14:44.693" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you want to have an enclosure without actually building one, you can try a server cabinet. Just take out the server racks and use it as an enclosure. And, as there are many server cabinets available, you could probably find one that suits your needs. Currently, I have my FlyingBear P902 3d printer enclosed in a server cabinet. And, although the doors and removable sides might have air gaps, you can always just tape that off (or use an insulation strip). Hope this works. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could also look at this website: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.schweinert.com/perfect-3d-printer-enclosure-for-prusa-i3-mk3/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Perfect 3D printer enclosure for Prusa i3 MK3&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FdL6c.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Perfect 3D printer enclosure for Prusa i3 MK3&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FdL6c.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Perfect 3D printer enclosure for Prusa i3 MK3&quot; title=&quot;Perfect 3D printer enclosure for Prusa i3 MK3&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16308" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2019-06-04T20:27:24.450" LastActivityDate="2019-06-04T20:27:24.450" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10021" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8709" CreationDate="2019-05-24T20:28:40.297" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would use a very slow print speed for the first layer, something like 20mm/s or less.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This will make your first layer so slow you will be tempted to bite the steel rods.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you were using Cura (I don’t know if Slic3r has a similar feature) you can change this parameter only for those areas where you have these small holes: with the Custom Supports plugin you can specify a different print speed for a specific area&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hNfJq.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hNfJq.png&quot; alt=&quot;Cusa custom support print speed setting&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13989" LastActivityDate="2019-05-24T20:28:40.297" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10025" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7388" CreationDate="2019-05-25T05:28:20.333" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've just bought an Ender 3 Pro and as a guess I would look at the Z axis stepper motor to see if it is not holding position once it stops... the stepper motor has power on it all the time it is stopped to hold it in position.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would check the plug that feeds power to see if it is damaged or not making good contact.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16570" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2019-05-31T01:32:49.967" LastActivityDate="2019-05-31T01:32:49.967" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10026" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-05-25T16:09:00.487" Score="2" ViewCount="1140" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can I use three-phase stepper motors with pololu style stepper drivers? If not, what kind of drivers support three-phase motors?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16467" LastActivityDate="2023-12-15T21:58:11.130" Title="Three-phase stepper motors?" Tags="|stepper-driver|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10027" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-05-25T19:58:10.077" Score="0" ViewCount="42" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a QIDITECH Dual Extruder Desktop 3D Printer which I purchased from Amazon in November 2017.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Until today it has been working fine and I've printed lots of models, today I set it printing and went out, when I arrived home the printing had stopped, the LCD display was still lit but not progressing, no filament was extruding and the extruders and bed had gone cold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I removed the print from the bed, cleaned it up then tried to print again.  The LCD displayed the correct display showing the extruders and bed, but none of them were heating up, the extruder temperatures did not change neither did the bed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems to have developed a fault and I have no clue as to why or how this has happened or what I can do to fix it?  I've sent an email to the supplier but so far no reply.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can anyone help me please?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1093" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2019-05-25T20:08:27.703" LastActivityDate="2019-05-25T20:08:27.703" Title="Qiditech not working" Tags="|troubleshooting|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10028" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10026" CreationDate="2019-05-26T03:54:59.313" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;3D printers typically use bipolar two-phase stepper motors, and it is possible that Pololu-style carriers for stepper-motor drivers only support such motors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Certainly, drivers for three-phase stepper motors exist, for example, the Trinamic TMC5062, but I cannot find any Pololu-style carriers for this chip. Even if a Pololu-style carrier can be sourced, it is not certain that existing 3D-printer firmware can be configured to control it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are thinking about re-purposing some three-phase motors, I would advise that you purchase standard bipolar motors, instead. Bipolar two-phase motors suitable for 3D printing are not that expensive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.analog.com/media/en/technical-documentation/data-sheets/TMC5062_datasheet_rev1.15.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Trinamic TMC5062&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3953" LastEditorUserId="13171" LastEditDate="2023-11-20T06:30:19.423" LastActivityDate="2023-11-20T06:30:19.423" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10029" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4980" CreationDate="2019-05-26T13:18:20.203" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;(Note: I realize this question is old, but I came across it looking for information on related topics and it didn't seem to have any sufficiently good answers yet.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To me, this looks exactly like what I'd expect printing with layers almost as thick as the nozzle diameter and insufficient hotend temperature or excessive speed. I've had problems like this at sizes 0.3 to 1/3 mm using an 0.4 mm nozzle even at my usual PLA temperature of 210, and can imagine it would be much worse at lower temperatures. If you didn't see the problem on benchy with a smaller cylinder, it's probably either because acceleration limits (which will be dominant on small details) prevented reaching high speeds, or (less likely in my opinion) because the deposited material had not had as much time to cool before the next layer was reached.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In order for layers to bond the newly deposited material needs to be pressed against the material already present, while melted, with sufficient heat transferred into the already-deposited material to make it amenable to bonding (naively I would guess this means it needs to reach around the glass transition temp, but that may be wrong). With layer thickness near the nozzle diameter, the nozzle will be putting less pressure on the existing material, making this harder. Also, if there has been underextrusion anywhere in the supporting wall below, the already-deposited material can simply compress downward into the gaps when new material is extruded against it, rather than them getting pressed together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For 0.3 mm layers, I'd go with the highest temperature the filament manufacturer rates it for, or even slightly higher if you have reason to believe the material is okay at higher temperatures. Some people say lowering the fan speed or turning it off is an option, but I've had really bad results with precision and/or stringing whenever I try that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Significantly lowering the print speed is also an option. That will greatly reduce the chance of underextrusion, and results in more heat transfer from the nozzle into already-deposited material. However lowering the speed generally defeats the purpose of 0.3 mm layers; you could instead just drop down to 0.25 mm or 0.2 mm and get much better quality at the same total print time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2019-05-26T13:18:20.203" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10030" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-05-26T15:16:10.080" Score="1" ViewCount="104" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I just printed my Bullseye mod for my cr-10. But now I have a problem, when my hotend is trying to heat up it can't, because the cooling is to powerful. I know this because when I stop the fan with my finger it starts heating up. Is there any way I can make the fan slow down when printing (because it's not printing properly either) and total stop or go at a minuscule amout when heating up.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Help is Appreciated&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16582" LastActivityDate="2019-05-26T15:16:10.080" Title="Hotend Will NOT Heat Up with Bullseye" Tags="|hotend|creality-cr-10|speed|cooling|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10031" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-05-26T15:53:27.013" Score="3" ViewCount="1156" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm fairly convinced that gyroid is the best infill for a lot of purposes, and use it regularly now, but both conceptually and anecdotally, it doesn't seem very good for reinforcing inter-layer adhesion. Each layer is essentially an overhang of the previous layer, and at one step in each period there's even a bridge, meaning that the layers do not get pressed tightly together during printing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any data on how different infill patterns perform against tension perpendicular to the Z-axis, or angular around the Z-axis, which generally results in layers separating? I would guess &quot;2D&quot; infill patterns provide the best strength here, and I could experiment with it myself, but I'd like to know if it's already been tested.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2019-05-26T15:53:27.013" Title="Best infill for inter-layer adhesion" Tags="|infill|print-strength|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10032" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2019-05-26T16:21:14.290" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vcBbKs.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vcBbKs.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;RS 232 port&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An example of an RS232 connector.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ba53js.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ba53js.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;USB-RS232 adapter&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An example USB-RS232 adapter. Mostly they need driver support to implement an RS232 over the USB.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="132" LastEditorUserId="132" LastEditDate="2019-05-26T16:45:26.053" LastActivityDate="2019-05-26T16:45:26.053" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10033" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2019-05-26T16:21:14.290" Score="0" Body="Originally means a data connection where a single bit of information is transferred in or out one bit at a time. Today it means a data connection following the RS-232 standard, either physically or over a software/hardware USB layer." OwnerUserId="132" LastEditorUserId="132" LastEditDate="2019-05-26T16:45:37.590" LastActivityDate="2019-05-26T16:45:37.590" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10035" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10036" CreationDate="2019-05-26T20:16:06.960" Score="10" ViewCount="38483" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been playing around with PETG for the first time, and everything seemingly worked right just from the start - clean prints, no stringing, no bed adhesion problems, no warping or dimensional accuracy problems, etc. As expected it prints a lot like PLA, and as expected, it's less brittle/stands up much better to crushing/impact, &lt;strong&gt;except&lt;/strong&gt; that it's really brittle when it comes to inter-layer adhesion. Vertical cylinders that were fairly strong in PLA just snap with no effort as PETG.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My particular PETG filament is Sunlu, with recommended print temperature 230-250 °C. I started out with 235 and am now using 250, which does somewhat better. I've used layer heights 0.125 - 0.2 mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are these kind of results normal? Is there anything I should be doing to get better adhesion between layers?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2021-04-23T00:04:11.927" Title="PETG layer adhesion" Tags="|print-material|adhesion|petg|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10036" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10035" CreationDate="2019-05-26T21:12:47.423" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;What you describe is usually the result of using a too high of a part cooling fan rotational speed. Like ABS, PETG doesn't require much cooling (if needed at all that is). If you do cool too much, layers and perimeters do not bond optimally (you can get string cheese like printed parts on failure). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Why should you use cooling for PETG?&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;Cooling helps cool the deposited filament on small cross sectional parts. If un-cooled, the printed part picks up too much heat and will deform or sag out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In such cases, reduce cooling to 40 % to start with (another option is to print more parts or increase minimal layer time). Note that there are so many print cooling fan constructions, some more effective than others, so you need to tune the print cooling fan speed to your setup. E.g. for an Ultimaker 3E I get good results at 50 % fan speed, for other self-build printers with effective part cooling solutions, 40 % works best (printed several kilometers of 2.85 mm PETG). First few layers don't need any cooling at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-05-29T16:23:41.310" LastActivityDate="2019-05-29T16:23:41.310" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10037" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3771" CreationDate="2019-05-27T10:46:30.540" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.matterhackers.com/s/store?q=Print%20pro%20bofa&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Matterhackers&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.printedsolid.com/collections/vendors?q=BOFA&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Printedsolid&lt;/a&gt; both carry the BoFa Print Pro filters. The Print Pro 3 has the benefit of recirculating the filtered air so that it doesn’t drop the enclosure temperature as much. Printed solid has it for \$899 currently. The filters are about \$300 to replace the prefilter and the combined Hepa/carbon filter. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Greenonline's answer gives a DIY solution that seems like a good option. Surgical masks won’t have a very high filter capacity though. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;None of the other answers give a commercial filter solution that is available without also buying an enclosure. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13841" LastEditorUserId="4808" LastEditDate="2019-05-28T09:59:03.263" LastActivityDate="2019-05-28T09:59:03.263" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10038" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-05-27T17:37:59.347" Score="3" ViewCount="8127" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm struggling to get my printer up and running for a few days now. The problem is as follows. I got a test model of a cube (40x40&amp;nbsp;mm) and everytime I try to print it, the nozzle creates these 'lines' on the print which is caused by over extrusion I think? See image:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WRtT4.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WRtT4.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;test print aborted at bottom shell&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This goes on for every bottom layer and ultimately when it starts printing the infill the nozzle starts digging into the print and I'm forced to stop the printer, see image:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/S2tvI.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/S2tvI.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;test print aborted during infill print&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I have tried so far:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Calibrating my extruder (by marking 100&amp;nbsp;mm on filament and command extruding 100&amp;nbsp;mm, check difference and adjust E step/mm accordingly)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Performed an auto bed leveling&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I even halved my flow rate in the slicer (Ultimaker Cura), this gave signs of under extrusion of the first layer but the second layer looks over extruded again&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tried different temperatures in the range of 190-210&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C (I'm using PLA), made no significant difference&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My settings and gear:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;HE3D K280 Delta 3D printer&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;E3D V6 Volcano hot end (original, not chinese)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;E3D Titan Extruder (original)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Marlin 1.1.8 using Ultimaker Cura as slicer&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Nozzle 0.6&amp;nbsp;mm, layer height 0.2&amp;nbsp;mm, print speed 50&amp;nbsp;mm/s&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1.75&amp;nbsp;mm PLA&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If anyone could help me fixing this that would be great!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16522" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-05-28T06:09:16.910" LastActivityDate="2019-12-08T18:03:09.487" Title="Can't seem to fix over extrusion" Tags="|print-quality|extruder|ultimaker-cura|extrusion|nozzle|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10039" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10038" CreationDate="2019-05-27T18:47:32.107" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your images look as if your initial nozzle to heat bed offset is too large. This causes the filament not to be squished. Try re-levelling and have a piece of plain printing paper have a little drag when pulled.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2019-05-27T18:47:32.107" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10040" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10158" CreationDate="2019-05-28T04:01:33.180" Score="4" ViewCount="232" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not really sure where to ask this question as I think it is a design question, but also a printing question. So if there is a better place to post, I'd be happy to harass someone else.&lt;br&gt;&#xA; I'm (re)designing a sprinkler manifold for a dripper system because the stupid pegs for this &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B00M0UG9SK&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;stupid manifold&lt;/a&gt; are on top of the manifold, which is a prime spot for any old postal person/dog/raindrop to break off. Of course the pegs aren't sold separately so you have to buy a whole new manifold. Seems like a great use for a 3D printer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/t5VuH.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/t5VuH.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;sprinkler pegs&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I designed a new manifold and decided the pegs were useful in case they broke off. I was thinking having them screw in would be a better design, but for the life of me I can't get them to actually screw in after I print. &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.dropbox.com/s/9cy2vbtc8r8j47g/MushroomManifold%20FO%20real-%20i2%20v4.f3d?dl=0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Here&lt;/a&gt; is the fusion 360 file.&#xA;This is generally what it looks like:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gam5D.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gam5D.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;MushroomManifold&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA; And &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.dropbox.com/s/e1edw8pbpw64j20/MushroomManifold.stl?dl=0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; is the resulting stl file. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After several prints, the pegs won't screw into the manifold base. I push and I turn and turn but the threads just won't bite. The 3/4&quot; pipe threads fit just fine, so I know threads can be printed, but these pegs are stubborn. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I guess my question is, what's a good design for a peg thingy that needs to attach into a manifold, but also pass water? Should I try to replicate the cantilever thing they have going on, or is a screw better? Any ideas why my pegs won't screw into the base of my mushroom? This is my first attempt at 3d modeling so I'm not totally familiar with all the terminology, so any pointers there would be helpful. &#xA;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16591" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-05-28T07:38:26.020" LastActivityDate="2019-06-03T01:12:13.690" Title="Advice for 3D modeling peg for sprinkler dripper" Tags="|prusa-i3|3d-design|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10041" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-05-28T08:19:31.967" Score="2" ViewCount="166" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking for some software, that could create marble effect on product from two filaments, not just gradient, but evolving color change.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do you know some slicer or some tool that can generate printer file like this from model?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16594" LastActivityDate="2019-05-29T14:02:36.620" Title="Dual Filament Mixer Marble Effect" Tags="|print-material|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10042" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-05-28T10:10:39.987" Score="1" ViewCount="328" Body="&lt;p&gt;My board programmed OK using Arduino software and spoke back to me on the USB port.  I then installed it in the system.&#xA;The display worked fine selecting menu items when powered up.&#xA;However, when I plugged the USB connector in, it all went dead. &#xA;When I disconnected everything and connected up to the Arduino software, it spoke to me again.  Now if I connect it up to the power supply, with only other connection the display (Smart Controller), it seems OK, but display goes blank when I connect the USB.&#xA;Any ideas?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16596" LastActivityDate="2019-05-28T10:10:39.987" Title="MKS Gen V1.4 won't work when connect to computer via USB" Tags="|usb|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10043" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10041" CreationDate="2019-05-28T15:01:14.260" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;E3D has a Cyclops product which mixes two filaments inside a melt chamber.  Clones of the E3D Cyclops can be found through the usual outlets.  E3D also has software recommendations for using their Cyclops product, which are found &lt;a href=&quot;https://wiki.e3d-online.com/Cyclops_%26_Chimera_Documentation&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.  They suggest cura as the slicer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The RepRap firmware (and possibly others as well) allow two extruders steppers to be used in an extrusion move, proportionally mixing two filaments.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In case you want to go further, to get a broad color gamut, you will need five filaments mixed into one extrusion bead.  Cyan (sky-blue), magenta (or bright purple), yellow, white, and black filament can be mixed to make most colors.  &quot;2D&quot; printing is done with four colors (cyan, magenta, yellow, and black), but for 3D printing, you also need white.  2D printing uses white, but it is the white of the paper.  Black is needed to get dark colors, as well as to form neutral gray colors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Based on the OPs comments, I understand that the software sought is a shader that creates a marble effect on the surface of a print.  I don't know of such software, but, as a software engineer, I imagine it would take roughly this form:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Slice the object conventionally, producing G-code for the object.  Identify all exterior extrusions with a special extruder number.  Multi-material slicers should provide this option (Slic3r-PE does).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Project a 2d image or synthetic pattern onto the 3D external surface of the object.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;For each voxel (volume pixel) of the exterior extrusion, determine what it's color should be based on the shading.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;With previously determined propagation delay from when the mix is set to when the color is extruded, back up along the extrusion path the correct distance.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Split the extrusion command at the point where the mix must be changed.  Insert new extrusion values.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Output the modified g-code.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've left out many implementation details.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The scheme depends on how predictable is the delay (in extrusion distance) from when the extrusion mix is changed to when the change comes out of the nozzle.  The variation (if any) in that distance will make the output look jagged and fuzzy.  In some ways, that variations limits the 2D bandwidth of the color information.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Schemes that require sharp, line-to-line coherence may require a purging process.  I assume that for a marble pattern, which I characterize as having soft color changes on a scale that is larger than the extrusion width, purging on every change is not desired or possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2082" LastEditorUserId="2082" LastEditDate="2019-05-29T14:02:36.620" LastActivityDate="2019-05-29T14:02:36.620" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10044" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10040" CreationDate="2019-05-28T17:49:20.693" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I may suggest a slight alternative:  don't try to make the threads part of the 3Dprint. Instead, thicken the walls where the threads would have been, increasing the ID (inner diameter) of the hole, maybe even &quot;thread&quot; to match the outside of : metal &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-1-4-in-20-tpi-x-20-mm-Zinc-Plated-Screw-in-Type-E-Insert-Nut-4-Pack-817798/204804833&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;threaded inserts&lt;/a&gt;. Those can be screwed in, .&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Perhaps a small &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-6-32-Coarse-Zinc-Plated-Steel-Tee-Nut-4-per-Pack-802261/204274190&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;T-nut&lt;/a&gt;&quot; (pick the size you need) would be sufficient, and you could create holes in your printed part for the penetration tips.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2191" LastActivityDate="2019-05-28T17:49:20.693" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10045" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10054" CreationDate="2019-05-28T18:57:20.927" Score="3" ViewCount="194" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a RAMPS 1.6 board. After soldering my stepper drivers, I probed them for bridging and found a short where none should be. Digging deaper into it, my multimeter shows continuity between the 12V +/- connectors (on occasion).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have scanned the whole board repeatedly for solder bridges, but could not find any. Are there any known weaknesses that I should look for or any specific place I should look at to repair it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13147" LastActivityDate="2019-05-29T09:22:43.750" Title="Short circuit on RAMPS 1.6 board?" Tags="|electronics|ramps|ramps-1.6|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10046" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10011" CreationDate="2019-05-28T19:11:35.943" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had similar issues with my A8 at first. If it &lt;em&gt;did&lt;/em&gt; work fine and now it does not, then it is not a firmware issue. My issues were resolved when I got a &lt;em&gt;new&lt;/em&gt; nozzle. If the tip is worn out or squished from crashing into the bed, no amount of cleaning is going to solve it. Also the filament it came with is probably extremely dusty and can easily reclog after cleaning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12706" LastEditorUserId="4808" LastEditDate="2019-05-28T19:55:30.043" LastActivityDate="2019-05-28T19:55:30.043" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10047" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2019-05-28T19:38:03.060" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2019-05-28T19:38:03.060" LastActivityDate="2019-05-28T19:38:03.060" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10048" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2019-05-28T19:38:03.060" Score="0" Body="For questions about words, phrases and definitions that are specific to 3D printing." OwnerUserId="4808" LastEditorUserId="4808" LastEditDate="2019-05-28T22:52:25.610" LastActivityDate="2019-05-28T22:52:25.610" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10049" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10040" CreationDate="2019-05-28T19:44:56.767" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I examined and sliced your STL file, and the profile of your threads looks very strange.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's definitely possible to do very strong, perfectly-fitting threads down to small sizes (at least down to M4 or slightly smaller) using modern inexpensive 3D printers, and contrary to widespread belief (there's a well-known YouTube comparison with a major test fallacy claiming otherwise) they should usually be stronger than threaded inserts against being pulled out. But you need to get the thread profile exactly right.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most real thread profiles are trapezoidal, but yours peak at points and have round bases. This is unlikely to match the external thread on the part you're trying to fit to it, and it's going to have major dimensional accuracy issues because of the sharp point which can't necessarily be represented in the layer resolution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not familiar with Fusion 360 so I don't know how to tell you exactly, but most CAD software has libraries for generating threads conforming to standard thread profiles. If you want to do 3D printed threads, you should look at those and figure out which one you're trying to match. Or, if you want to replace the pegs with your own design anyway, just pick a reasonable one for both.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Generally, most modern threads use the basic &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/ISO_metric_screw_thread&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;ISO metric thread profile&lt;/a&gt;, even if they're not standard metric diameter or pitch:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5TTOQ.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5TTOQ.png&quot; alt=&quot;ISO Metric Thread Profile diagram&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your cross-sections should look roughly like the &quot;internal thread&quot; side of that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastEditorUserId="11157" LastEditDate="2019-05-29T15:22:01.927" LastActivityDate="2019-05-29T15:22:01.927" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10050" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-05-28T22:57:56.980" Score="4" ViewCount="193" Body="&lt;p&gt;I finished my first print and it came out like this&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/W4cBM.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Print side&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/W4cBM.png&quot; alt=&quot;Print side&quot; title=&quot;Print side&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fmlGf.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Print second side&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fmlGf.png&quot; alt=&quot;Print second side&quot; title=&quot;Print second side&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JSKhK.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Print top side&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JSKhK.png&quot; alt=&quot;Print top side&quot; title=&quot;Print top side&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I calibrated all my axis steps and manual movement gives perfect numbers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am printing with these slicer settings: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mRxcD.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Slicer settings&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mRxcD.png&quot; alt=&quot;Slicer settings&quot; title=&quot;Slicer settings&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GqGjI.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Slicer speed settings&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GqGjI.png&quot; alt=&quot;Slicer speed settings&quot; title=&quot;Slicer speed settings&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't even know where is the problem to begin searching for a solution. It's my very first print after a couple fails and a lot of calibration to Z axis and bed leveling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Update the printer without the heatbed as it's an older picture:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ueO6Y.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;3D printer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ueO6Y.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;3D printer&quot; title=&quot;3D printer&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Z axis moves on 2 lead screws and 2 rods with bearings all of which attached to the plate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16600" LastEditorUserId="16600" LastEditDate="2019-05-31T03:06:32.993" LastActivityDate="2019-05-31T03:06:32.993" Title="Weird lines and smaller height" Tags="|print-quality|diy-3d-printer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10051" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10050" CreationDate="2019-05-29T02:03:07.677" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd say that your axis aren't square, aren't tightened enough and you seem to have overextrusion as well. That would explain why all your layers are wobbly and not neatly stacked on top of each other, why your cube is far being being a cube (the picture of the X face shows it clearly) and the quality of surface finish on the top.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do not know what kind of printer you are using, but I would advise you to check that the X and Y axis are correctly calibrated and that they're perfectly square, which would ensure that each layer is correctly stacked on top of the previous one to produce a nice cube. And make sure to tighten the axles to avoid the noise in the print due to the vibration produced by the printing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for the overextrusion, you'll need to make more test with your printer and the material you're using, changing temperature, and print speed until you find the right combination that will extrude just enough material through your nozzle. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12917" LastActivityDate="2019-05-29T02:03:07.677" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10052" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5962" CreationDate="2019-05-29T03:54:17.250" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I simply swapped the pins &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#define E1_STEP_PIN        26  //swapping to E1 FRED&#xA;#define E1_DIR_PIN         28&#xA;#define E1_ENABLE_PIN      24&#xA;#ifndef E1_CS_PIN&#xA;  #define E1_CS_PIN        42&#xA;#endif&#xA;&#xA;#define E0_STEP_PIN        36  //swapping to E0 FRED&#xA;#define E0_DIR_PIN         34&#xA;#define E0_ENABLE_PIN      30&#xA;#ifndef E0_CS_PIN&#xA;  #define E0_CS_PIN        44&#xA;#endif&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which worked for the basic operation, however now that I've tried to add Autoleveling it stopped moving E1 motor. My configuration.h file does not have:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;code&gt;#define EXTRUDER_USE_E1&lt;/code&gt;&#xA; apparently as its an older version also, just like RAMPS.h doesn't have those conditional statements.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16605" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-05-29T06:11:07.767" LastActivityDate="2019-05-29T06:11:07.767" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10054" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10045" CreationDate="2019-05-29T09:22:43.750" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your multimeter showing continuity doesn't necessarily mean there is a short.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All your multimeter is doing is applying a small voltage and then, if the current that flows is over a certain threshold, reporting that there is continuity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The components (stepper drivers, microprocessor) on the board, draw current. That's normal. The current draw might be enough for your multimeter to report continuity. Because the multimeter is only using a small voltage to test (and not the required 12V), the current draw may be intermittent (not enough voltage for the microprocessor to actually start working), and capacitors getting (dis-)charged may also affect things.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The multimeter &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; reporting continuity is a guarantee of no short. However, the multimeter reporting continuity does not mean there is a short. The only way to find out is to apply 12V. If you use a current-limited power supply the possibility of damage if there is a short circuit is limited.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastActivityDate="2019-05-29T09:22:43.750" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10055" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-05-29T11:51:22.883" Score="4" ViewCount="1178" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm totally lost. I have been searching about two days how to correctly wire Blue Laser LA03-5000 to RAMPS 1.4 board. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This laser has 12&amp;nbsp;V input and separates PWM/TTL wires. I have found out how to control laser with no PWM (just hook it to D9 same as a fan), but how do I correctly wire this type of laser? I really want to wire it correctly for safety reasons. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Noo3R.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Blue Laser LA03-5000&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Noo3R.png&quot; alt=&quot;Blue Laser LA03-5000&quot; title=&quot;Blue Laser LA03-5000&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16607" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2019-05-29T12:31:36.353" LastActivityDate="2019-07-03T09:02:25.283" Title="Laser LA03-5000 wiring to RAMPS 1.4" Tags="|marlin|ramps-1.4|laser|cnc|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10056" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10055" CreationDate="2019-05-29T12:36:34.753" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Please look into &lt;a href=&quot;/q/9970/&quot;&gt;this question&lt;/a&gt;, this is a very similar question and also involves PWM and a RAMPS 1.4 shield. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In your case you connect the top red wire on the right bottom connector to the D4 pin and adjust the firmware accordingly as described in &lt;a href=&quot;/a/9972/&quot;&gt;this answer&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bottom 2 wires of the lower right connector should be connected to ground and 12&amp;nbsp;V (resp. black and red).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Fyq2B.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Fyq2B.png&quot; alt=&quot;Wiring of laser power control module&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-06-03T08:23:31.447" LastActivityDate="2019-06-03T08:23:31.447" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10057" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10018" CreationDate="2019-05-29T13:08:50.503" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It does this in small corners.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1226466&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this model&lt;/a&gt;, when sliced has this on layer ~7:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/b0QE5.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/b0QE5.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Tiny tiny bit of blue infill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There seems to be no feature to explicitely disable this.&#xA;But sometimes an additional perimeter solves it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16380" LastActivityDate="2019-05-29T13:08:50.503" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10058" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10038" CreationDate="2019-05-29T14:46:26.400" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would look for Z-axis compliance or springiness.  If the Z-axis is too compliant, then it will have a &quot;slight drag on a piece of paper&quot; over a significant commanded Z height.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When printing the first layer, the head will be elevated by the pressure of the plastic being extruded pressing against the bed.  When printing the second layer, the actual Z-height won't be a full layer higher, as the previous layer was lifted.  The second layer will also be lifted, but it will drag through the first layer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To test for this, manually set the z-height using a metal feeler gauge.  If you don't have one, use a strip cut from the side of a soda can.  Set the z-height so that there is some like pressure against the gauge.  Increase the height by 0.1mm.  The gauge should now be free.  If not, continue increasing by 0.1mm steps until the gauge is free.  That is how much compliance you have in the feed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From a home-designed delta I built, I know that there are several sources of this compliance.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First check the 12 joints.  Are they tight?  Do they have wiggle room?  That wiggle room can destroy your precision.  Try squeezing the pairs together at the top and bottom with rubber bands.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second, check that the print head carrier (the part that moves around) is stiff and doesn't flex with pressure against the nozzle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Third, check that the vertical travelers are following their tracks tightly.  There should be no wiggle room for them, either.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fourth, check the belts, which must be tight.  If there was no vertical wiggle in test three, they are probably OK, but tighter is usually better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2082" LastActivityDate="2019-05-29T14:46:26.400" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10059" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10137" CreationDate="2019-05-29T17:28:17.730" Score="4" ViewCount="20892" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been aware ever since I got it that my Ender 3's X-axis isn't level. Measuring from the top of it to the top of the frame, the right-hand (positive) side is about 4.7mm higher than the left.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;During assembly, the vertical rails were not entirely parallel, and had to be pulled together to get the X axis on and to bolt the cross beam on the top. I suspect this is related, but I'm not sure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway, aside from the bed having to be tilted to be level with respect to the X axis, this never seemed to cause any problem, so I've left it alone until now. However I have measured almost exactly a 1% dimensional error in the X direction that I've now compensated for by setting the steps per mm, and wonder if the tilted axis could be the cause. Doing the trig, that doesn't make sense - a 4.7 mm error across the width of the bed should translate to something like one part in 2000, not 1%. But maybe something's wrong in my analysis so I'd like second opinions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Aside from that, is this something I should try to correct, or just let be? I suspect it's the base that's warped or tapped/cut incorrectly where the vertical rails bolt on, in which case it seems unlikely there's any way to fix it without replacing that part, which is something I'd rather not get into as long as the printer is working. But if there are other possibilities that are non-invasive to try, I might.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mLJ7a.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;whole printer with x axis at low z&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AGc09.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;x axis raised to top of frame&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Further update: if this is the cause of the dimensional error (which turned out to be more like 0.41% than 1%, thus closer to plausible) I probably need to fix it. Using firmware steps/mm adjustment is not viable because it produces aliasing patterns in skin layers presumably due to step width no longer dividing nozzle size/line width.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastEditorUserId="11157" LastEditDate="2019-05-31T20:29:42.193" LastActivityDate="2019-06-08T19:45:24.220" Title="Ender 3 X axis not level" Tags="|calibration|creality-ender-3|x-axis|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10060" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3771" CreationDate="2019-05-29T18:10:37.873" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are two main options you could consider. The first being a diy filter and the second being a commercially available fume extractor. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Option 1&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could make a filter yourself. On Thingiverse, there are many ideas that you could implement. A few examples are these : &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1992079&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1992079&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2285882&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2285882&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2105113&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2105113&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Option 2&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Buy a commercially available fume filter. An example that would be well below your budget ($178) would be the Zimpure (&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.zimple3d.com/zimpure/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.zimple3d.com/zimpure/&lt;/a&gt;). This is a device that will vacuum the fumes right by the nozzle and filter them. Additionally, you could get this filter from Matterhackers : &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.matterhackers.com/store/l/3d-printpro-2-fume-extractor/sk/M148KJM4?rcode=GAT9HR&amp;amp;gclid=CjwKCAjw27jnBRBuEiwAdjQXDAJL0tK7g4mAGvHf1ThJigJ80j920qelXJXtdOLcufKXE2Dkd2ZfUxoCzdsQAvD_BwE&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;MatterHackers&lt;/a&gt;. This could be an option if you are willing to go a little bit above your budget. If you would rather have a filter for 30 bucks, you can also look at this filter that attaches to your enclosure : &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.3dupfitters.com/products/fan-and-charcoal-air-filter&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.3dupfitters.com/products/fan-and-charcoal-air-filter&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lastly, if you wanted to go all out, you could also get this enclosure : &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.3dprintclean.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.3dprintclean.com/&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope any of these solutions named might be beneficial to you :). For even more options, visit this post : &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/513/what-air-filtration-options-exist-for-enclosures&quot;&gt;What air filtration options exist for enclosures?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16308" LastActivityDate="2019-05-29T18:10:37.873" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10061" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10085" CreationDate="2019-05-29T21:13:49.873" Score="11" ViewCount="6308" Body="&lt;p&gt;After a few months of printing with my Prusa Mk3 (with plans to get a second one soon), I have been wondering about making my third printer a home-built one was a larger print bed than the Mk3. One thing I wondered about is perfectly expressed in the title question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there practical reasons to &lt;strong&gt;not&lt;/strong&gt; use a stepper motor with lead screw for the X and or Y axes?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am certainly happy with the GT2 belts used in my current printer, but I wonder if the design might be simpler with lead-screws on all three axes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13790" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2019-05-30T00:10:21.247" LastActivityDate="2019-05-31T17:40:19.390" Title="Are there practical reasons to NOT use a stepper motor with lead screw for the X and or Y axes?" Tags="|diy-3d-printer|lead-screw|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10062" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10026" CreationDate="2019-05-29T21:18:53.863" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Three phase stepper motors are superior in several ways: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.omc-stepperonline.com/p-series-nema-23-1-2deg-3-phase-stepper-motor-5-5a-1nm-141-64oz-in-23ht22-5503s&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;see this product sales literature.&lt;/a&gt;  To summarize: they have a higher stall torque, smoother operation, and smaller step size than equivalent 2-phase hybrid stepper motors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately for using this with simple stepper drivers, they have an extra coil of wire that simple drivers have no way to control.  Two phase motors have two isolated coils, while three phase motors have three coils connected in a star configuration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Texas Instruments offers this design suggestion for using three-phase motors: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ti.com/lit/ug/tiducn7/tiducn7.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;TI White Paper&lt;/a&gt;.  Ultimately, it is driven by three synchronized PWM signals connected to three H-bridges, each driving one of the three motor wires.  One could build a board with a micro-controller that accepted step and direction pulses and output the three-phase drive.  At that level, you could substitute the micro-control-plus-H-bridge board for the Pololu-style driver in an existing 3D printer framework.  You would need to configure the steps-per-mm correctly for the new drive system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you did this, and the sales literature is correct, you should get quieter operation with higher torque.  How that would affect operation would depend on the torque of the motor, the rotating mass of the motor, and the gearing or belt drive you use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Like two-phase motors, high torque at high speed requires driving the motor with a voltage much higher than the &amp;quot;specified&amp;quot; steady-state motor voltage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2082" LastEditorUserId="2082" LastEditDate="2023-12-15T21:58:11.130" LastActivityDate="2023-12-15T21:58:11.130" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10063" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2019-05-29T21:24:18.357" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Fans used on 3D printers generally fall into three areas:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hotend fan&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Electronics (Controller, PSU) cooling fan &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Print cooling fan&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/print-tag&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;print-tag&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;print-tag&lt;/a&gt; tag should be used for the latter category, where the extruded material is cooled. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4762" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2019-05-29T21:24:18.357" LastActivityDate="2019-05-29T21:24:18.357" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10064" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2019-05-29T21:24:18.357" Score="0" Body="For questions related to the usage of fans on 3D Printers for the cooling of electronics *not* the print" OwnerUserId="4762" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2019-05-29T21:24:18.357" LastActivityDate="2019-05-29T21:24:18.357" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10065" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2019-05-29T21:28:52.363" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The tag is used for grouping the FAQ-like topics, most commonly asked about 3D printing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4762" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2019-10-02T10:16:36.893" LastActivityDate="2019-10-02T10:16:36.893" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10066" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2019-05-29T21:28:52.363" Score="0" Body="For frequently asked questions or questions that discuss the basics of 3D printing." OwnerUserId="4762" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2019-10-02T10:16:36.893" LastActivityDate="2019-10-02T10:16:36.893" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10067" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2019-05-29T21:30:40.943" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;When asking for replacement parts for 3D printers, which are either original branded, OEM, or alternative third party parts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4762" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2019-05-29T21:30:40.943" LastActivityDate="2019-05-29T21:30:40.943" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10068" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2019-05-29T21:30:40.943" Score="0" Body="For replacement parts for 3D printers" OwnerUserId="4762" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2019-05-29T21:30:40.943" LastActivityDate="2019-05-29T21:30:40.943" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10069" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2019-05-29T21:31:23.067" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;For questions about resin based printers&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4762" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2019-05-29T21:31:23.067" LastActivityDate="2019-05-29T21:31:23.067" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10070" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2019-05-29T21:31:23.067" Score="0" Body="For questions about resin based printers" OwnerUserId="4762" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2019-05-29T21:31:23.067" LastActivityDate="2019-05-29T21:31:23.067" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10071" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2019-05-29T21:33:22.037" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;For questions about analysis of:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;printers, &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;printed parts, &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;materials.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4762" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2019-05-29T21:33:22.037" LastActivityDate="2019-05-29T21:33:22.037" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10072" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2019-05-29T21:33:22.037" Score="0" Body="For questions about analysis" OwnerUserId="4762" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2019-05-29T21:33:22.037" LastActivityDate="2019-05-29T21:33:22.037" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10073" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2019-05-29T21:34:30.147" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;For questions dealing with 2D images and models:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;how to convert images to 3D models&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;etc.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4762" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2019-05-29T21:34:30.147" LastActivityDate="2019-05-29T21:34:30.147" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10074" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2019-05-29T21:34:30.147" Score="0" Body="For questions dealing with 2D images and models" OwnerUserId="4762" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2019-05-29T21:34:30.147" LastActivityDate="2019-05-29T21:34:30.147" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10075" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2019-05-29T21:41:36.057" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;3D Printers can be constructed from recycled parts e-waste such as CD/DVD ROM drives, scanners, paper printers. Usually the stepper motors from such devices are used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4762" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2019-05-29T21:41:36.057" LastActivityDate="2019-05-29T21:41:36.057" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10076" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2019-05-29T21:41:36.057" Score="0" Body="For questions related to building printers from e-waste" OwnerUserId="4762" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2019-05-29T21:41:36.057" LastActivityDate="2019-05-29T21:41:36.057" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10077" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2019-05-29T21:44:31.480" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;For questions related to the use of 3D printed material outdoors, with respect to filament used (ABS, PLA, etc.) and their performance when used for 3D prints against degradation due to sunlight and the weather&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4762" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2019-05-30T00:22:56.030" LastActivityDate="2019-05-30T00:22:56.030" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10078" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2019-05-29T21:44:31.480" Score="0" Body="For questions related to the use of 3D printed material outdoors" OwnerUserId="4762" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2019-05-29T21:44:31.480" LastActivityDate="2019-05-29T21:44:31.480" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10079" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10061" CreationDate="2019-05-29T23:27:13.997" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cost would be the primary reason.  You can engineer a belt driven system that will be equally accurate, faster, and with longer travel for a lower cost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lead screws are comparatively expensive. The cost differential dramatically increases with length of travel and speed with equivalent accuracy.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lead screws do have a significant advantage of being able to carry a much heavier load while maintaining rigidity which is important for something like a CNC mill but isn't as relevant for 3D printing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is on the assumption when you say: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Are there practical reasons to &lt;strong&gt;not&lt;/strong&gt; use a stepper motor with lead screw for the X and or Y axes?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;you meant that you are still planning on using stepper motors but considering a lead screw vs. belts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15179" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2019-05-30T13:24:30.553" LastActivityDate="2019-05-30T13:24:30.553" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10080" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10061" CreationDate="2019-05-30T00:08:59.057" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;In addition to cost, &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Backlash_(engineering)&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;em&gt;backlash&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/a&gt;, which can be experienced in the Z-axis where threaded rods and leadscrews are mostly commonly used, would/could become an issue. The elasticity of GT2 belts generally avoids this issue for the X and Y axes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It would be worth reading &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/3527/advantages-of-gt2-over-a-rack#answer-3528&quot;&gt;Tom's answer&lt;/a&gt; to &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/3527/advantages-of-gt2-over-a-rack&quot;&gt;Advantages of GT2 over a rack&lt;/a&gt;, which while the question was related to &lt;em&gt;Rack and Pinion&lt;/em&gt; mechanisms, would also apply to leadscrews, in particular:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;To avoid backlash and get the same kind of &quot;tight&quot; engagement, both the gear and the rack need to be made with very high precision. The carriage also needs to be very well constrained, because any wobble of the rack relative to the gear introduces backlash (or binding). Moreover, you also need to keep the rack and pinion well lubricated lest they wear out prematurely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4762" LastActivityDate="2019-05-30T00:08:59.057" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10081" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10083" CreationDate="2019-05-30T03:13:06.703" Score="3" ViewCount="827" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have two Tronxy 2.0 V5 Marlin boards that reboot whenever heat is applied to the bed. The bed has been swapped (because I thought that was the problem) for a new shiny one. The thermistors, too, of course.  The same boards (both) work when the beds remain unheated (setpoint = 0&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas what might be causing this, or what I might do to figure it out?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: I really have no idea which Tronxy board this is;  the &quot;2.0&quot; is stenciled on the board, so that's all I can figure out. I shamefully admit I tagged it with Tronxy x1 to see if I could generate any interest, and because a &quot;Tronxy&quot; tag is not available.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16512" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2019-05-30T20:24:30.330" LastActivityDate="2019-05-31T14:09:43.870" Title="Tronxy Marlin boards (two of them) reboot when asked to heat bed" Tags="|marlin|heated-bed|firmware|tronxy|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10082" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10059" CreationDate="2019-05-30T04:03:37.473" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;i've just bought an Ender 3 Pro and on assembly I carefully checked and deburred the uprigh rails on their bottom faces to ensure they did not splay out or in etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once the 2 uprights are loosely attached to the base rails I laid the assembly flat onto a table on the uprights to ensure the uprights were square to one another and tightened the screws.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check the uprights are parallel to one another by placing the top crossbeam on the top of the uprights and check if the screw holes are alligned...….if the screws are tight to enter their holes the uprights are splayed out or in and need correcting etc......a small amount of pressure &quot;can&quot; make them line up. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The X axis rail slides up and down on the two uprights with two 3 wheeled brackets, one either side, that have 3 wheels on them, one wheel on each bracket is the adjuster and it is easy to have the X axis cross beam out of square if you tighten the one bracket to the rail before you test the rail for squareness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Firstly, place only the 2 wheel brackets on their uprights and adjust the wheels for smooth running, then attach the X axis rail to each wheel bracket and just nip up the 2 screws loosely to hold them to the cross beam.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, check the cross beam for squareness by running it to the top of the uprights and measuring the gap left to right between the X axis rail and the top rail, then tighten the left hand wheel bracket screws to the X axis rail......and then tighten the right hand wheel bracket to the cross beam.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Leave the Z axis leadscrew off for the moment and run the crossbeam up and down on the uprights making sure there are no tight spots due to out of squareness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;if it's all freely moving.....fit the Z axis leadscrew.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bed plate can only be set once you have the machine itself squared up.&#xA;Ian.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16570" LastActivityDate="2019-05-30T04:03:37.473" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10083" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10081" CreationDate="2019-05-30T11:21:38.920" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds like a power-related problem. Always use an external MOSFET to drive a heated bed, and consider investing in a decent power supply. Inevitably, the Tronxy PSU will be barely adequate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: I've just noticed the &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/tronxy-x1&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;tronxy-x1&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;tronxy-x1&lt;/a&gt; tag. Be aware that the stock (60 Watt) PSU for the Tronxy X1 cannot power a heated bed (the printer does not have one). Trying to do so will overload the PSU and cause an immediate reset.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3953" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2019-05-30T12:47:35.000" LastActivityDate="2019-05-30T12:47:35.000" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10084" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-05-30T13:05:02.020" Score="2" ViewCount="1476" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got some curious marks on my heatbed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It appears to be from my black Sunlu PLA+ (I can just feel it if I scrape my finger nail over it) but I can't scrape it off with the metal spatula.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I try and print over it the filament won't stick.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any suggestions as to what it is and how you get rid of it?&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ofS5K.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ofS5K.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16617" LastActivityDate="2019-05-31T23:18:52.663" Title="Prusa MK3 heatbed marks" Tags="|prusa-i3|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10085" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10061" CreationDate="2019-05-30T16:30:02.380" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am going to answer this as someone who actually did rework their Prusa i3 fleabay clone to use leadscrews for all axes. Before digging into the matter, the backlash issue can be solved easily with spring-loaded brass nuts, kinda like how ballscrews work. That's the simplest problem to solve though as there are a lot of other issues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Short version / tl;dr&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Hardware can't handle that many microsteps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Crosstalk and motor inductance limit speeds and acceleration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Print quality suffers in really weird ways because of (2).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Leadscrews are not made for quick movement over extended periods of time and will wear, even with grease.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You'll need additional bearing surfaces to prevent your motors from grinding themselves apart, and to eliminate backlash due to the flex couplings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The system becomes a lot more prone to highly destructive failure modes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Long explanations&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;First&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You're going to notice is that you're constrained to horribly, horribly slow movement and acceleration rates. My screws are 8 mm screws, with 8mm pitch. That means it takes 200 steps to travel 8 mm. Multiply by 1/16th microstepping, and that's 3200 microsteps per 8 millimeter of travel. Multiply by whatever speed you're trying to print at, then the number of axes you're using, and you'll find that your RAMPS board starts to stutter on complex moves if you print fast enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Second&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll quickly hit the inductance limits of your motors. At &amp;quot;standard&amp;quot; power levels (ones that don't fry my knockoff NEMA17 motors), even after switching to 24 V for the entire setup, the fastest I could spin my motors was about 5 revolutions per second, which translates to 16,000 microsteps per second with 8mm pitch screws. For reference that means that under ZERO load, the fastest my N17 w/ 8 mm pitch could travel, is about 40 mm/s.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You're basically running the motor coils at several kilohertz, which means you have to be really careful about keeping your wires separate and shielded to prevent crosstalk, in addition to the fact that as your step frequency goes up, your step torque goes down dramatically. Not only does this limit the weight of the bed that the motor is capable of pushing at a given speed, but you even have to worry about the inertia of the motor and bed much more than with a belt-driven system. So instead of 30 mm/s jerk with 200 mm/s&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; acceleration, suddenly you're limited to, say, 5 mm/s jerk and 40 mm/s&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; acceleration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As mentioned, for best results, the whole system needs to be converted to 24 V, and not all boards are configured for this to be easily done. My cheap RAMPS clone only needed a single diode removed and everything else was fine, but YMMV in this regard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You &lt;em&gt;could&lt;/em&gt; solve this particular problem by gearing the motors down, but at that point you've now introduced a new source of backlash either between the gear teeth or in the belt drive system, and kinda defeated the point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Third&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Due to this effect, is that you run into extrusion pressure artifacts. Basically, the plastic in the nozzle is a fluid, a very viscous one, being forced through a small hole. The fluid pressure will &amp;quot;lag&amp;quot; somewhat behind what the extruder motor &lt;em&gt;thinks&lt;/em&gt; is happening.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The end result is that while you're accelerating, the lines you're laying are thinner than they should be, and will be thicker than they should be while decelerating, and you tend to get weird &amp;quot;globs&amp;quot; on each corner when you come to a stop. For me, with a 0.4 mm nozzle, 0.8 mm line width, and 0.2 mm layer height, these artifacts actually completely offset the additional accuracy I was getting with a tightly-coupled leadscrew with spring loaded dual nuts on it. The parts ended up being even less dimensionally accurate than before, with very strange deformities.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There ARE settings you can use in the firmware to try and combat this specific effect, but the process is tedious and takes a lot of trial-and-error, and recompiling the firmware every 30 seconds is annoying, not to mention the variables are dependent on line width, speed and acceleration settings, and layer height, so you have to recompile your firmware any time you want to change the print quality. Super, super annoying.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Fourth&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Leadscrews aren't actually designed for this. The constant back-and-forth motion will wear the brass nuts and even the steel threads of the screws over time. You end up with a black powdery residue on everything underneath the screw, which, in the X axis, typically also means your print. Nobody wants steel powder messing up their layer adhesion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my case I used Superlube, which is a silicone/PTFE grease, to help prevent this problem, but that only works so well when you've got spring-loaded brass nuts. Eventually they push most of the lube out. Additionally, the lube tends to grab and hold any metal powder that does form, accelerating wear in areas that are still lubricated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Fifth&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bearings. Turns out motors have internal bearings, that generally suck and aren't made for heavy loads in any direction. I found that out when my Y-axis N17 motor failed because the bearing did, and spread powder all over the coils, some of which got pushed through the enamel and shorted the wires out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally, because tiny amounts of misalignment turn motors into shrapnel in a hurry, you're almost certainly going to be using flex couplings. Flex couplings have a certain amount of yield to them axially, and are primarily designed to be under compression loads, and tend to fail when stretched repeatedly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the Z axis this is normally not an issue because the whole system is held down by gravity, but in the X and Y axes, you'll get some weird offsets of even a millimeter or two each time the carriage or bed switches directions. So you'll want to make sure that the motors aren't load bearing themselves, and the screw remains locked relative to the frame while still being able to rotate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can accomplish this by having a ring fastened to each end of the leadscrew that either pushes on a thrust bearing or rides in a regular ball bearing. Ideally, you can do both, but this turns into an expensive venture with a whole lot of brackets in odd places that you may not have space for. I ended up losing about 20 mm of bed travel solving this problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Sixth&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You need to think about what happens when a component fails. For me, it was my endstops. The first failure was from the crosstalk issue I mentioned above. Y-stops triggered, bed started shifting towards the front of the printer over time, and eventually the printer started trying to move the bed through the front of the printer frame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It was successful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The second time was simply the endstop switch failing mechanically. Belt travel stops at the pulley. Leadscrews go all the way to the end of the screw, and because they're geared so much lower than belts are, there's a lot more torque involved. I destroyed my printer frame three separate times because of this problem, and once more when the Y-axis flex coupling snapped. This allowed the motor to spin the screw easily in one direction but not in another - which this time forced the print bed backwards instead of forwards, yanking the Y motor through its bracket and the frame again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Conclusion&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;X/Y screws are not necessarily a &lt;em&gt;bad&lt;/em&gt; idea, simply an expensive and tedious one in 3D printing. They're much better suited to low-feedrate applications like CNC mills, mechanical engravers, and the like. You may notice that even high-accuracy applications like laser printers tend to have belt-fed carriages rather than screw-driven ones. Screws are much better suited to high load, low-speed applications, and printers tend to be the opposite of that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're trying to eliminate backlash due to the belts not being tight enough, as I was, the answer is to make a better printer. I couldn't tighten the belts enough to get my prints accurate before the motors started failing, because I didn't have the motor-end pulley supported by a bearing. Start there, literally just support on either side of the pulley on the motor shaft with a small bearing braced against the frame to take the radial load off the motor. If your belts are stretching too much, use steel-core GT2 belt. If your system is overall just sloppy, build a more robust system. My current project is a Hypercube Evo, and I found a supplier that makes steel-core GT2 belt. I'm going to use that to maximize rigidity in the CoreXY belt system. The frame is made from 30x30 mm T-slot extrusions, with 12 mm Z-axis rods and 10 mm X/Y axis rods. Bigger, more expensive components that are way more robust and will flex much less than the 400 mm long 8 mm rods on my cheapo printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps.&#xA;(edited to get my math right on the microsteps)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16621" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:29:41.667" LastActivityDate="2019-05-30T17:17:43.143" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10086" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2019-05-30T17:21:01.683" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="4762" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2019-05-30T17:21:01.683" LastActivityDate="2019-05-30T17:21:01.683" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10087" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2019-05-30T17:21:01.683" Score="0" Body="For questions relating to the driver of the extruder" OwnerUserId="4762" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2019-05-30T17:21:01.683" LastActivityDate="2019-05-30T17:21:01.683" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10088" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2019-05-30T17:22:48.010" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="4762" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2019-05-30T17:22:48.010" LastActivityDate="2019-05-30T17:22:48.010" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10089" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2019-05-30T17:22:48.010" Score="0" Body="For questions related to the use of masking tape, which is often applied to the print bed for adhesion" OwnerUserId="4762" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2019-05-30T17:22:48.010" LastActivityDate="2019-05-30T17:22:48.010" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10090" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-05-30T17:24:08.737" Score="4" ViewCount="739" Body="&lt;p&gt;Assuming you have a suitable oven to maintain temperature at the filament melting point and a suitable mold that can handle the temperature, is a commodity 3D printer hotend and extruder, with large nozzle, suitable for injecting material into the mold? I'm thinking of a setup like having the hotend mounted through a wall of the oven, braced against a hole in the mold inside the oven, and feeding filament via motor or manual cranking outside. Or is much higher pressure needed to make something like this work?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Certainly there are better setups to do this for manufacturing at scale, but the point of this question is whether you can do it with minimal setup effort and cost using commodity parts and filaments rather than needing expensive or custom-built equipment and material sourcing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For relevance to the site in case it's questionable: certainly if this technique is possible, it could be used along with initial 3D printing of a design and using that to produce a (e.g. high-temperature epoxy) mold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-06-30T13:12:01.467" LastActivityDate="2020-07-01T15:39:27.423" Title="Can commodity 3D printer extrusion hardware and filament be used for injection molding?" Tags="|extruder|hotend|print-material|molds|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10091" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2019-05-30T17:26:35.427" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;For questions relating to changing filaments mid-print. This tag should not be used for using a different filament colour/type/diameter, or just changing filament rolls, between &lt;em&gt;completed&lt;/em&gt; prints.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4762" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2019-05-30T17:26:35.427" LastActivityDate="2019-05-30T17:26:35.427" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10092" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2019-05-30T17:26:35.427" Score="0" Body="For questions relating to changing filaments mid-print" OwnerUserId="4762" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2019-05-30T17:26:35.427" LastActivityDate="2019-05-30T17:26:35.427" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10093" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2019-05-30T17:30:09.290" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;For questions related to PVA filament&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4762" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2019-05-30T17:30:09.290" LastActivityDate="2019-05-30T17:30:09.290" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10094" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2019-05-30T17:30:09.290" Score="0" Body="For questions related to PVA filament" OwnerUserId="4762" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2019-05-30T17:30:09.290" LastActivityDate="2019-05-30T17:30:09.290" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10095" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2019-05-30T17:32:42.313" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;RAMPS 1.x is a family of popular 3D Printer controllers, which is a shield that sits on top of an &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.arduino.cc/en/Main/arduinoBoardMega&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Arduino Mega&lt;/a&gt;. The most commonly used is the 1.4 version.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://reprap.org/wiki/Arduino_Mega_Pololu_Shield&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;RepRap Arduino Mega Pololu Shield&lt;/a&gt;, or RAMPS for short, is an expansion shield for the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.arduino.cc/en/Main/arduinoBoardMega&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Arduino Mega&lt;/a&gt; designed to fit the entire electronics for a RepRap 3D printer in a small, low cost package. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additional information and a full list of features can be found at the &lt;a href=&quot;http://reprap.org/wiki/Arduino_Mega_Pololu_Shield&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;RAMPS RepRap Wiki page&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See these definitions from the RepRapWiki:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/wiki/RAMPS_1.2&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;RAMPS 1.2&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/wiki/RAMPS_1.3&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;RAMPS 1.3&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/wiki/RAMPS_1.4&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;RAMPS 1.4&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/wiki/RAMPS_1.4.4&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;RAMPS 1.4.4&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/wiki/RAMPS_1.5&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;RAMPS 1.5&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/wiki/RAMPS_1.6&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;RAMPS 1.6&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/wiki/RAMPS_1.7&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;RAMPS 1.7&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are specific tags for:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/ramps-1.4&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;ramps-1.4&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;ramps-1.4&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/ramps-1.6&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;ramps-1.6&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;ramps-1.6&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4762" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2019-05-30T23:54:10.780" LastActivityDate="2019-05-30T23:54:10.780" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10096" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2019-05-30T17:32:42.313" Score="0" Body="For questions related to the RAMPS controller board - The RepRap Arduino Mega Pololu Shield, or RAMPS for short, is an expansion shield for the Arduino Mega designed to fit the entire electronics for a RepRap 3D printer in a small, low cost package. " OwnerUserId="4762" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2019-05-30T23:54:10.780" LastActivityDate="2019-05-30T23:54:10.780" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10097" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2019-05-30T17:38:55.460" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;For questions regarding troubleshooting or design of a 3D Printer or 3D model's X-axis. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For cartesian printers, the X-axis is usually the direction of horizontal movement of the hotend across the build plate to the maximum width of the printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For delta printers, the X-axis is used for, and defines, the movement of the first stepper associated with the first X-axis tower.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is an axis or shaft direction in the &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cartesian_coordinate_system&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Cartesian coordinate system&lt;/a&gt;. Three axes describe the complete movement of the 3D printer. The X-axis is usually the horizontal movement of the hotend from left to right when facing the a Cartesian style printer, or the horizontal hotend movement from side to side for non-moving platforms in the X direction (e.g. CoreXY or H-bot printers).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4762" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2019-05-30T23:35:53.733" LastActivityDate="2019-05-30T23:35:53.733" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10098" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2019-05-30T17:38:55.460" Score="0" Body="Use this tag for questions related to specific movement of the X direction of the printer - Questions about a machine or 3D model's X-axis" OwnerUserId="4762" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2019-05-30T23:22:39.967" LastActivityDate="2019-05-30T23:22:39.967" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10099" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9996" CreationDate="2019-05-30T17:55:13.520" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Turns out I'm using a 12V hot end and should be using 24V. I looked up the resistance to be sure; so no amount of tuning the PID would fix that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16512" LastActivityDate="2019-05-30T17:55:13.520" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10100" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10090" CreationDate="2019-05-30T18:18:44.600" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Injection molding requires two major components: pressure and heat. So your question can be broken down into those two halves: can your average extruder handle injection molding temperatures, and can it handle injection molding pressures?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Let's start with pressure.&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;Per &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.me.umn.edu/%7Ekstelson/research_sbp/sbp/case/case_general.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this page&lt;/a&gt; on the University of Minnesota's site, plastic injection molding tends to require pressures of around 2 to 8 tons per square inch. Assuming you're using a 0.4 mm nozzle, which has a cross-section of 0.126 mm², that works out to be 0.000195 (1.95E-4) square inches, which translates to about 3 lb of pressure total at the nozzle assuming you're going for the high end of 8 tons (16,000 lb). However because of the way that you're treating the molten filament in the extruder as a hydraulic fluid, you've got to deal with the fact that the &amp;quot;piston&amp;quot; on one end is actually quite a lot larger area, which means you have to multiply the force by that difference in size. The cross-section of 1.75 mm filament is approx. 9.62 mm², or 0.149 in². That's 76.4 times larger, which means you need to be pushing on the end of that filament with roundabout 230 pounds, or 105 kg, of force.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For reference, the Nema 17 that's on my extruder is spec'd at 76 oz-in of torque, geared down 4:1 through a Wade's extruder, and then acting on a hobbed gear with a 6 mm effective diameter (3 mm radius). Much to my own surprise, as I write this, that means that my little plastic extruder is actually capable of just north of 160 lb of pressure force! All these numbers would need to be recalculated for 3 mm filament, and I have no experience with 3 mm, so we're going to skip that one for now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, that being said, my extruder is also capable of shredding filament if conditions aren't just right. The main two problems you'll have to overcome is 1) gripping the filament hard enough without destroying it, and 2) keeping the filament from buckling. I think if you got clever with some gears keeping multiple hobbed gears synced up, and a polished aluminum or steel feed tube, you could absolutely make your own extruder that's capable of consistently putting 300+ pounds of force on your plastic filament without it buckling or stripping. The downside is that your feed rates are going to be fairly slow, so each injection molding is likely going to take you quite a bit of time. A larger motor such as a beefy NEMA23 might help offset that by giving you much higher torque at higher speeds, so long as you can melt the filament fast enough. However we'll need to revisit these pressure numbers in a few moments, after I explain a few things about temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Next, let's look at temperatures.&lt;/strong&gt; Obviously we know that we can melt the filament itself as it's moving through the extruder. Using a Volcano nozzle or something, you can even guarantee molten filament at a fairly high extrusion rate. However most printers are designed such that the filament cools to solid (60-80 °C normally) almost immediately. Injection molding designs require that the entire mass of plastic be kept molten. Fortunately, ABS and PLA melting temps are easily reached by literally any toaster oven, so stick your setup in there and you're golden, right?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;But wait, there's more!&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;One of the problems you'll run into immediately is that extruders are carefully designed so that the plastic is molten for as little time as possible, because molten plastic against a metal tube introduces a bunch of friction, hence the need for super high pressures during injection molding. If the plastic melts too soon, then you'll clog up your heatsink (the &amp;quot;cold&amp;quot; side of the extruder), and won't be able to extrude at all. This is a fairly common source of jams in 3D printing, where you're extruding too slowly and there's not enough cooling on the heatsink. Fortunately, E3D sells a water-cooled Titan extruder that would keep the heatsink cool. However the rest of your gearing assembly, and the motor, will also need active cooling, as heat damages the permanent magnets in the rotors, and the printed geared assembly obviously will melt if put inside an oven. Your best bet might be a water-cooled Bowden setup, assuming you can find tube fittings that can withstand several hundred pounds of force. You might look into using solid tubes like brake line rather than your normal PTFE shenanigans.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;TL;DR:&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;Get you a water-cooled extruder, make a super-strong Bowden setup, and gear down a huge motor with a bunch of synchronized hobbed gears, and you might actually pull it off! There's plenty of Thingiverse extruder files you can use as a starting point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as commercially available extruders go, however, I don't think you're going to find anything that's immediately available that can handle what you need it to without some level of modification depending on your selected injection pressures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16621" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-06-30T20:37:04.020" LastActivityDate="2020-06-30T20:37:04.020" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10101" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8020" CreationDate="2019-05-30T18:41:20.797" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The fact that these are all perfectly spaced, and don't mirror the edges of irregular prints, makes me think it's definitely not ghosting. That said, I can't see the Y direction on either print, just the X direction, so this all assumes it's only happening in one direction.&#xA;One thing to think about: Your motors have typically 2 opposing coils, and they get activated by taking 4 steps: (North, off, South):&#xA;N/o&#xA;o/N&#xA;S/o&#xA;o/S&#xA;If these are spaced out exactly 4 steps apart, that would imply that one of your coils is either underpowered or overpowered on the motor controlling that direction's movement. That would lead to your motor torque dipping and increasing, leading to slightly uneven print speed. This is 100% speculative and might be a goose chase since you've got 4 X/Y motors and it seems to happen in both the X and Y axis. The chances of having that many motors exhibit the same deficiency is astronomical.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, I've got little experience with multiple motors per axis. Another thing you might look into is whether the motors are fighting each other at all. If, for example, the motor-side pulley isn't aligned exactly the same way on both X motors, or the motors get out of sync with each other, because of the way the motor's holding torque falls as you get away from a full step position, you might find that one motor is holding the other back slightly, or pulling it forward towards the nearest full step. Again, this is all speculative, but it might be worth looking into. You can typically figure out the full step location by killing power to the machine and letting the motors settle into a full step on their own without the belts or other drive mechanisms attached. I'd unhook the belts, kill the power, get the motors settled (with a bit of a nudge if necessary), and then see if your belt perfectly settles into both pulleys in that location. You might find that the belt teeth don't quite line up on both pulleys, and the only way I can think of that would fix that specific problem is spinning the motor until it matches, or even physically relocating the motor closer or farther relative to the other on the same axis.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;YMMV, best of luck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16621" LastActivityDate="2019-05-30T18:41:20.797" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10102" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10035" CreationDate="2019-05-30T18:48:56.090" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;PETG doesn't bond well if the layers aren't both at a fairly high temperature, as noted by the other answers. As mentioned, try reducing or simply turning off layer cooling. Additionally, try printing at a smaller layer height, or increased line width, to force the layers to bond more effectively. A final solution would possibly be to print a wall around the part, as many people without enclosures do for ABS prints, to keep the part nice and hot until the nozzle can deposit another layer on top. Works best when paired with higher bed temps. I personally had to print PETG around 25 degrees above the &quot;max&quot; recommended temperature to get good layer adhesion on my fleabay i3 clone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16621" LastActivityDate="2019-05-30T18:48:56.090" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10103" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7388" CreationDate="2019-05-30T18:58:42.640" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Similar issue happened to coworker's Maker Ultimate. I'm gonna go out on a limb and assume that your Z-stop is a little mechanical switch, and there's an M3 screw going through part of the Z carriage that pushes said switch. &#xA;Check to see how much force it takes to rotate said screw. There's a lot of vibration happening in a 3d printer, and it takes surprisingly little vibration to make a threaded part do weird things, including making it back out against gravity if conditions are right. Redo your Z gap paper test, get everything lined up, and then slap a dab of blue loctite on the screw to make sure it doesn't move during your next print. See if that fixes your problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16621" LastActivityDate="2019-05-30T18:58:42.640" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10104" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10084" CreationDate="2019-05-30T19:55:53.103" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Edit: As Trish noted, apparently Prusa printers don't ship with Buildtak stickers like the other printers I've used, so this is probably a bad idea in your specific case. For others reading this, only do the sanding shenanigans with buildtak or other stickers that you can easily replace and don't mind wearing down over time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Used to happen to me printing PETG on Buildtak. I ended up using a medium grit sanding sponge to remove the PLA layer. Related, you might want to grab some 1k grit sandpaper for the same reason, it does a great job of freshening up your build surface once builds stop sticking well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16621" LastEditorUserId="16621" LastEditDate="2019-05-30T22:07:20.467" LastActivityDate="2019-05-30T22:07:20.467" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10105" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2019-05-30T20:27:21.517" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;For general questions related to Tronxy printers manufactured by &lt;a href=&quot;https://tronxy.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Shenzhen Tronxy Technology Co., Ltd&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the model is known then please use the appropriate &lt;code&gt;tronxy+&amp;lt;model name&amp;gt;&lt;/code&gt; tag.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4762" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-05-20T11:58:53.503" LastActivityDate="2021-05-20T11:58:53.503" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10106" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2019-05-30T20:27:21.517" Score="0" Body="For general questions related to Tronxy printers or the manufacturer Shenzhen Tronxy Technology Co., Ltd." OwnerUserId="4762" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-05-20T11:58:53.503" LastActivityDate="2021-05-20T11:58:53.503" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10107" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10084" CreationDate="2019-05-30T20:56:36.807" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It looks like you may be a little bit too close with the nozzle. Does the first layer calibration look alright?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The steel sheet with coating is a consumable. It will get marks.&#xA;Even with long PLA prints. However, these will slowly fade and should not interfere with print quality.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I can still see my first benchy on my sheet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you're no longer satisfied with the state of your sheet, use some acetone to clean to bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: PETG will case bumps since this sticks a bit too much to IPA cleaned coating. Causing the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.reddit.com/r/prusa3d/comments/9d7h4i/smooth_sheet_after_first_petg_print_a_bunch_of/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;coating to bubble&lt;/a&gt; on removal. These damages can fade. If not too bad. So don't clean with IPA for PETG, use window cleaner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What you can do is move the print around, instead of always print in the center.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16380" LastActivityDate="2019-05-30T20:56:36.807" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10108" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2019-05-30T23:40:11.857" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;This tag is used for general 3D printer questions, when no specific printer brand, model, or type is specified.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4762" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2019-05-30T23:40:11.857" LastActivityDate="2019-05-30T23:40:11.857" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10109" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2019-05-30T23:40:11.857" Score="0" Body="For general printer questions" OwnerUserId="4762" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2019-05-30T23:40:11.857" LastActivityDate="2019-05-30T23:40:11.857" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10110" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2019-05-30T23:43:07.230" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;This tag relates to questions about aspects of the printing of foodstuffs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4762" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2019-05-30T23:43:07.230" LastActivityDate="2019-05-30T23:43:07.230" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10111" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2019-05-30T23:43:07.230" Score="0" Body="For 3D printers used in printing food (for human consumption)" OwnerUserId="4762" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2019-05-30T23:43:07.230" LastActivityDate="2019-05-30T23:43:07.230" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10112" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2019-05-30T23:44:53.453" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;This tag is used for printers that use clay as a printing material&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4762" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2019-05-30T23:44:53.453" LastActivityDate="2019-05-30T23:44:53.453" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10113" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2019-05-30T23:44:53.453" Score="0" Body="For ceramic printer questions" OwnerUserId="4762" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2019-05-30T23:44:53.453" LastActivityDate="2019-05-30T23:44:53.453" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10114" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2019-05-30T23:54:25.217" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://reprap.org/wiki/Arduino_Mega_Pololu_Shield&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;RepRap Arduino Mega Pololu Shield&lt;/a&gt;, or RAMPS for short, is an expansion shield for the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.arduino.cc/en/Main/arduinoBoardMega&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Arduino Mega&lt;/a&gt; designed to fit the entire electronics for a RepRap 3D printer in a small, low cost package. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The RAMPS 1.6 is the second RAMPS iteration released by BIQU/BIGTREETECH. It replaces the original green power connector with a pair of screw terminals, adds a larger heatsink over the MOSFETS, and has a larger bed MOSFET. It maintains the surface-mounted fuses and flush MOSFETS of the RAMPS 1.5.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, the positions of the D1 and D2 diodes have been swapped from the positions in RAMPS 1.4, the D1 diode is now the diode closest to fuse F2. The same is true for RAMPS 1.5, also manufactured by BIQU/BIGTREETECH.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additional information and a full list of features can be found at the &lt;a href=&quot;http://reprap.org/wiki/Arduino_Mega_Pololu_Shield&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;RAMPS RepRap Wiki page&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4762" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2019-05-30T23:54:25.217" LastActivityDate="2019-05-30T23:54:25.217" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10115" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2019-05-30T23:54:25.217" Score="0" Body="For questions specifically related to the RAMPS 1.6 controller board - The RepRap Arduino Mega Pololu Shield, or RAMPS for short, is an expansion shield for the Arduino Mega designed to fit the entire electronics for a RepRap 3D printer in a small, low cost package. " OwnerUserId="4762" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2019-05-30T23:54:25.217" LastActivityDate="2019-05-30T23:54:25.217" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10116" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2019-05-30T23:57:24.993" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;About the Palette 2&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.mosaicmfg.com/products/palette-2&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Palette 2&lt;/a&gt; is a separate device providing one multi color filament out of multiple single color filaments.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4762" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2019-05-30T23:57:24.993" LastActivityDate="2019-05-30T23:57:24.993" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10117" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2019-05-30T23:57:24.993" Score="0" Body="For questions relating to the Palette 2" OwnerUserId="4762" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2019-05-30T23:57:24.993" LastActivityDate="2019-05-30T23:57:24.993" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10118" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2019-05-31T00:03:25.377" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;A &lt;strong&gt;metal–oxide–semiconductor field-effect transistor&lt;/strong&gt; (&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/MOSFET&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;MOSFET&lt;/a&gt;, MOS-FET, or MOS FET) is a type of field-effect transistor (FET), most commonly fabricated by the controlled oxidation of silicon. These transistors are often used in power applications.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With respect to 3D printers, a MOSFET is most commonly used to provide additional power to a heated bed. Some controller boards are unable to provide sufficient current necessary to heat a heated bed, and so a MOSFET is used to provide a switching mechanism in order to supply the additional current.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4762" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2019-05-31T00:03:25.377" LastActivityDate="2019-05-31T00:03:25.377" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10119" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2019-05-31T00:03:25.377" Score="0" Body="For questions relating to the use of MOSFETs in 3D printers" OwnerUserId="4762" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2019-05-31T00:03:25.377" LastActivityDate="2019-05-31T00:03:25.377" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10120" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2019-05-31T00:04:24.793" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;For questions relating to the chemical properties of 3D printing material.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4762" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2019-05-31T00:04:24.793" LastActivityDate="2019-05-31T00:04:24.793" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10121" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2019-05-31T00:04:24.793" Score="0" Body="For questions relating to the chemical properties of 3D printing material" OwnerUserId="4762" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2019-05-31T00:04:24.793" LastActivityDate="2019-05-31T00:04:24.793" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10122" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2019-05-31T00:05:35.400" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;For questions relating to issues arising in 3D printing software and firmware&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4762" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2019-05-31T00:05:35.400" LastActivityDate="2019-05-31T00:05:35.400" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10123" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2019-05-31T00:05:35.400" Score="0" Body="For questions relating to issues arising in 3D printing software and firmware" OwnerUserId="4762" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2019-05-31T00:05:35.400" LastActivityDate="2019-05-31T00:05:35.400" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10124" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2019-05-31T00:08:53.893" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;For questions relating to the use of TinkerCAD, a free online 3D modeling program owned by AutoDesk.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4762" LastEditorUserId="30940" LastEditDate="2022-03-25T19:02:41.160" LastActivityDate="2022-03-25T19:02:41.160" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10125" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2019-05-31T00:08:53.893" Score="0" Body="For questions relating to the use of TinkerCAD, a free online 3D modeling program owned by AutoDesk." OwnerUserId="4762" LastEditorUserId="30940" LastEditDate="2022-03-25T19:02:41.160" LastActivityDate="2022-03-25T19:02:41.160" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10126" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4575" CreationDate="2019-05-31T00:17:33.170" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had this problem also. After a few hours of troubleshooting and changing the extruder temp, printing speed, layer height, and infill density. I realized that I had set the PLA diameter at 2.85 mm when it was 1.75 mm. Changing that fixed all my problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16629" LastActivityDate="2019-05-31T00:17:33.170" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10127" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2019-05-31T01:13:40.747" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;From &lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/wiki/PEI_build_surface&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;PEI build surface&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;PEI (Polyetherimide), also known as Ultem, is a reusable &quot;relatively maintenance free&quot; build surface for both ABS (with a Heated Bed) and PLA (hot or cold) requiring no additional adhesives such as glue or tape. PEI is appealing due to its &quot;no-surface-prep&quot; conditions, which make it convenient to work with. Additionally, printing on PEI requires no support rafts as parts adhere directly to the surface with no issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PEI is sometimes &lt;em&gt;incorrectly&lt;/em&gt; referred to as BuildTak, however they are not the same thing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4762" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2019-05-31T01:13:40.747" LastActivityDate="2019-05-31T01:13:40.747" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10128" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2019-05-31T01:13:40.747" Score="0" Body="Polyetherimide (PEI), AKA Ultem, is used as a build surface due to its adhesion properties" OwnerUserId="4762" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2019-05-31T01:13:40.747" LastActivityDate="2019-05-31T01:13:40.747" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10129" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2019-05-31T01:20:35.387" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;From RepRap Wiki: &lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/wiki/Threaded_rod&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Threaded Rod&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Leadscrews are threaded rods used to lead a component on, for example the X-axis assembly on the Z-axis. For most RepRaps a common (straight!) threaded rod is sufficient, but for higher precision and reduced wobble you might want to use real leadscrews.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;There are two main thread profiles for leadscrews, both of which are trapezoidal: Trapezoidal and Acme. The important but subtle difference is the angle of the thread flank. Be sure to get matching nuts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See also Wikipedia: &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Leadscrew&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Leadscrew&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A leadscrew (or lead screw), also known as a power screw&lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/wiki/Threaded_rod&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;1&lt;/a&gt; or translation screw,&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Leadscrew&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;2&lt;/a&gt; is a screw used as a linkage in a machine, to translate turning motion into linear motion. Because of the large area of sliding contact between their male and female members, screw threads have larger frictional energy losses compared to other linkages. They are not typically used to carry high power, but more for intermittent use in low power actuator and positioner mechanisms. Common applications are linear actuators, machine slides (such as in machine tools), vises, presses, and jacks.&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Leadscrew#Advantages_&amp;amp;_disadvantages&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;3&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Leadscrews are manufactured in the same way as other thread forms (they may be rolled, cut, or ground).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are three types of thread used by leadscrews:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Square&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Buttress&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Acme&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Leadscrew#Advantages_&amp;amp;_disadvantages&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Advantages and disadvantages&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The advantages of a leadscrew are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Large load carrying capability&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Compact&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Simple to design&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Easy to manufacture; no specialized machinery is required&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Large mechanical advantage&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Precise and accurate linear motion&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Smooth, quiet, and low maintenance&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Minimal number of parts&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Most are self-locking&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The disadvantages are that most are not very efficient. Due to the low efficiency they cannot be used in continuous power transmission applications. They also have a high degree of friction on the threads, which can wear the threads out quickly. For square threads, the nut must be replaced; for trapezoidal threads, a split nut may be used to compensate for the wear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4762" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2019-05-31T01:20:35.387" LastActivityDate="2019-05-31T01:20:35.387" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10130" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2019-05-31T01:20:35.387" Score="0" Body="Leadscrews are a superior replacement to threaded rods" OwnerUserId="4762" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2019-05-31T01:20:35.387" LastActivityDate="2019-05-31T01:20:35.387" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10131" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10081" CreationDate="2019-05-31T14:09:43.870" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;First, check the power supply.  Although it may be specified to deliver the required power, it is possible that the power supply has failed in a way that it can not deliver the rated power.  At lower load, the voltage may be correct, but under higher load, it either droops or cuts out completely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To check this, use a voltmeter on the power as it enters the CPU board, not where it leaves the power supply.  This accomplishes one additional check.  If the voltage droops rather than cuts off, it may be that the connections have corroded and have a higher resistance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have any kind of oscilloscope, I would recommend it over a simple voltmeter, because the power interruption or droop time may be very short.  When the CPU resets it will switch off the load that causes the problem, and the power may quickly resume the correct value.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second, check that there is not a short in the bed wiring.  You might detect that with an ohm meter.  You have used two different CPU boards, to it is unlikely to be a common fault on both boards, but you might be using the same wiring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Third, check the routing of the bed heater wires to see that they are not near other wires which connect with the CPU, including thermistor wires and wires to the UI.  High-current switching in the bed wires could be coupling into other wires and conducting a RESET signal to the CPU.  Ideally, the heater wires will be twisted together with about 3 (or more) twists per inch, and not twisted together with other wires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2082" LastActivityDate="2019-05-31T14:09:43.870" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10132" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-05-31T14:40:27.307" Score="4" ViewCount="1687" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm  working on a cube in Blender. I just deleted one of the faces (the top face) of the cube and added solidify to avoid non manifold edges.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this case, when I check the design it shows that the bottom face is an overhang face (shown with yellow color). However, if I change the overhang parameter in 3D printing tool box from 45 to 90° and then check the model, it doesn't show any overhang faces and it seems that everything is okay. I don't think increasing the overhang parameter could be a good idea. However, this is my first time that I'm trying to design a model for 3D printing. Can this model with the overhang parameter equal to 90° be printed using a 3D printer? How can I fix the overhang problem in this simple model. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eZuaF.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Blender screenshot&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eZuaF.png&quot; alt=&quot;Blender screenshot]&quot; title=&quot;Blender screenshot&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Today I tested another simple model. I used a fill circle and added solidify to the model. Although the model is really simple, check the model shows the same as the previous design - the bottom face is an overhang face. It seems that adding solidify to a shape leads to this problem. I don't know how can I fix this problem. Changing the overhang parameter fixes the overhang problem but it seems that this not a good idea for printing models.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately, I can not test the print myself as I do not have a printer myself and I need to outsource the print job.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16632" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2020-07-13T10:36:23.033" LastActivityDate="2020-07-13T10:36:23.033" Title="Set the overhang parameter in Blender 3D printing tool box" Tags="|3d-models|3d-design|print-preparation|blender|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10133" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10090" CreationDate="2019-05-31T14:47:18.483" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;An injection molding injector melts all the plastic needed for the shot and pushes it into the mold and through the sprue very quickly.  Perhaps that is why it is called a &quot;shot&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Injection molding machines do not heat the mold to plastic-melting temperatures.  This works because the plastic is injected quickly, and fills the mold before the plastic cools.  Molds are designed so that this happens, and often include multiple thick sprues to direct plastic to all parts of the hold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Injecting with a 3D printer extruder will be a slow process.  If the mold is not above the melting point, the plastic will cool and likely become a tangle of thread at the entrance of the mold.  To combat that, you could heat the mold.  This is doable, and will suitable insulation the temperature of the cold end and the extruder should be acceptable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With the mold heated, you would inject plastic until the mold is full.  The mold heater would then be disabled and the mold would cool.  This would take a long time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Injection molding machines typically have water-cooled molds to cool the plastic more quickly.  Time is money for an injection molding factory, and cooling quickly is key to productivity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the 3D printer injection molding machine, the time when the plastic is hot could be fairly long -- longer than would typically be found in injection molding.  I am concerned that some plastics, perhaps such as PLA, would degrade or burn during the long molten time.  Experience would be required.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2082" LastActivityDate="2019-05-31T14:47:18.483" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10134" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10090" CreationDate="2019-05-31T15:05:42.680" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, technically you can but only for small parts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However the size of the object would be limited (about the size of a button). It has to do with the power of the heater element. Its too small to deliver enough thermal energy to heat enough plastic fast enough to fill a large cavity (i.e. anything larger than a button in my humble opinion). The previous answers give a breakdown as to why. Normally in an injection molding machine, the plastic starts cooling when it hits the walls.  As the first set of plastic hits the wall of the mold, it sticks and starts cooling. You have to get the rest of the plastic in before that area cools back down and solidifies. Practical for a small part, but not for a large part. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for your idea about keeping the mold itself hot, yes that would work, if you could keep the temp within range. Overheating the plastic destroys the bonds, weakening the part. Too cold and it will clog.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I say try it with a Volcano hot end and an actual mold. The plastic will melt faster if you use a preheater (a second hot end, that is upstream), to print the plastic up to 80% temp before it enters the final extruder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12857" LastEditorUserId="12857" LastEditDate="2019-05-31T17:19:59.150" LastActivityDate="2019-05-31T17:19:59.150" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10135" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10132" CreationDate="2019-05-31T17:19:33.583" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Overhangs that are substantially greater than 45° to the vertical generally require supports, and overhangs of 90° will definitely require supports, unless they are bridges (supported at both ends). Depending on how well you have your printer and filament &quot;dialled in&quot;, it is possible to print overhangs up to 70° without supports. However, if your model is a simple cube, it will have no overhangs, so it doesn't really matter what value you give the overhang parameter. Supports are usually generated when the model is sliced, but some modelling software will generate supports as part of the model.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3953" LastEditorUserId="3953" LastEditDate="2019-05-31T17:29:07.993" LastActivityDate="2019-05-31T17:29:07.993" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10136" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10061" CreationDate="2019-05-31T17:40:19.390" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is possible to use lead screws; specifically 4 start leadscrews. The only drawback is that you need to be wary of heat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's breakdown the concerns&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Cost. Yes it costs more than belts, and it will last longer at higher speeds, whereas a belt &lt;em&gt;may&lt;/em&gt; stretch. If cost is a factor then stick to belts.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Speed. Multi start screws offer a lower pitch than single start ones. As a result you less of a turn reduction. This can bring them on part with belts. The drivers you use will determine how fast you can spin your stepper motor. Voltage mode drivers are as used in 3d printers are good at high torque at low speed (sub 1000rpm). Current mode drivers are better at high rpm (e.g. STMicro's powerStep01)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Heat. When the lead screw heats, the metal expands. When the metal expands your positional accuracy disappears. Using a metal that has a low &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thermal_expansion&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;coefficient of thermal expansion&lt;/a&gt; would be best, however they may cost more.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just from changing the drivers you should be able to get a speed increase without needing to resort to the heavier multi start lead screw. Increasing the voltage will also help, however you would need a driver that can let you vary the holding current, otherwise the motor will heat up and burn when it is not moving.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12857" LastActivityDate="2019-05-31T17:40:19.390" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10137" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10059" CreationDate="2019-05-31T21:53:09.377" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I disassembled the printer and first found something very suspicious: the left (Z-motor side) vertical rail was not mounted flush against the base, because the edge of the control board cover panel was under the edge of it. Fixing this made the vertical rails parallel and made the X-axis unit easily slide back on, but it did not fix the issue; the X-axis was still non-level.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next, I started playing with eccentric nuts, which was probably a mistake. They were already the appropriate tightness, and I might have messed them up, in which case I'll have to go back and tune them more later. I then found a second point of adjustment: the attachment of the roughly-triangular bracket that holds the three roller wheels on the right side to the X-axis aluminum extrusion rail. I as soon as I loosened the bolts, I was able to get a plenty play to level the axis. In order to get it level, with the top beam mounted, I raised both sides so that the top outer wheels would hit the plastic end caps of the top beam. This relied on a dubious assumption that the triangular roller wheel arrangements on both sides are symmetric, but it seems correct, and after re-tightening the bracket, lowering it to the bed, and re-leveling the bed, everything seems fully level.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Further, after the fix, my dimensional accuracy test piece is 119.6 mm instead of 119.5 mm, which works out to the difference before the fix being undersized by 0.084%, very close to my &quot;1 part in 2000&quot; estimate of the error that the non-level axis should cause. Sadly it still wasn't 120.0 mm like it should be, so I went looking for another source of the inaccuracy. Tensioning the X-axis belt seems to have done the job, and I'm now getting 120.0 mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I took some pictures in the process, which I'll try to attach later to improve this answer for others who may hit the same problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Caveats:&lt;/strong&gt; In the process of doing this, I badly messed up the Z axis. I was getting prints coming out almost 1mm shorter than they should be and having to relevel the bed continually. The whole system is &quot;over-constrained&quot; by all the points at which it can be tightened, so if anything is inconsistent when it's tightened, everything goes catastrophically wrong. &lt;a href=&quot;https://makersteve.com/2018/10/07/a-tale-of-two-enders-gantry-alignment/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;This entry on Maker Steve's blog&lt;/a&gt; was very helpful in figuring out how to get it back in order. After making the adjustments, however, I still had a problem: a horrible grinding squeal whenever the Z motor moved in the negative direction. It turned out I'd also over-tightened the screws holding the Z lead screw nut on the carriage (after mistakenly removing it during all this), forgetting that the assembly instructions specify that it shouldn't be tightened down. loosening both screws by about half a turn finally got everything working right again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastEditorUserId="11157" LastEditDate="2019-06-08T19:45:24.220" LastActivityDate="2019-06-08T19:45:24.220" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10138" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-05-31T22:12:43.503" Score="2" ViewCount="339" Body="&lt;p&gt;Assuming heat transfer to melt the filament is not an issue, what’s the bottleneck in pushing more filament through the nozzle? Is extrusion volume per time proportional to applied extruder torque?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16467" LastActivityDate="2019-06-01T05:33:16.520" Title="Limit to extrusion volume" Tags="|extruder|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2019-06-15T14:07:04.383" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10139" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10084" CreationDate="2019-05-31T23:18:52.663" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Prusa ships (or has shipped) with two types of PEI build plates.  The original (and what I was shipped in February 2019) is a PEI sheet held in place with an adhesive.  The marks I've gotten seem to be places where the adhesive has been displaced slightly from long term pressure by the object being printed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In your case, it actually looks like scratches in the PEI.  If, after cleaning with water, then 95% Isopropyl alcohol, and finally acetone the scratches still appear, I'd check if they are a problem.  Do they transfer onto objects printed on the plate?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you decide you have a problem, I would use a mild kitchen scrubby sponge to &quot;sand&quot; out the scratches.  I have two types in my kitchen.  The yellow ones are too abrasive.  The blue ones are better.  Gently use one to make the surface uniform.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have an adhesive based plate, Prusa sells replacement PEI sheets, with adhesive.  The process of changing them seems onerous.  Although I bought two spare sheets when I got the printer, I have never been tempted to use one.  When my build plate becomes unusable, I will buy another one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Prusa3D also offers a textured build plate, which is more expensive and in short supply.  These are a powder-coating process and from pictures and their blog, I infer they are particles of PEI which are melted onto the steel surface.  I have no experience with these.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know if they are making the current smooth plates with a powder coating process, or if they are still using the adhesive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The adhesive is the weak link in the heated bed.  It is only rated for 110 degrees C, which is the temperature limit of the bed.  I find that when I print with a hot bed (such as for PETG), the visible ripples in the surface are worse than when printing PLA on a cooler bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2082" LastActivityDate="2019-05-31T23:18:52.663" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10140" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10138" CreationDate="2019-06-01T02:17:34.190" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The molten plastic in the extruder becomes a hydraulic fluid effectively when it gets melted. You're pushing on a fat piston (1.75&amp;nbsp;mm or 2.85&amp;nbsp;mm, depending on filament type), and shoving fluid out through a 0.4&amp;nbsp;mm or so hole. There's a limit to flow rate at a given pressure, but the bigger issue actually tends to be friction. Molten plastic really loves to grab on to metal, and the ratio of surface area to volume is fairly high in the long, skinny tube that is the inside of an extruder. To make matters worse, the not-quite-molten section of the melt zone up at the top normally doesn't make a lot of contact with the walls due to lower pressures not deforming the plastic all that much, but at higher pressures you get much more deformation, increasing the linear distance that the plastic is dragging against the tube walls, and the pressure with which the two surfaces are bonding together. Especially in cheapo clone extruders you'll find roughly bored inner surfaces with many circumferential grooves which exacerbate this issue - this is why most extruders have a PTFE lining as far down as they can go. I had this issue in my $3 &quot;all-steel&quot; extruder barrel, where even printing PLA was an issue because of how readily the plastic formed huge plugs and grabbed the inside of the extruder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So what you end up with, is that increased torque mostly linearly translates to increased pressure, which results in linearly increased friction inside the barrel, plus a little bit extra due to extra deformation in the top of the melt zone. You can polish the inside of the barrel (heatbreak? seen both terms) to help alleviate internal friction somewhat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To make things even more fun, there's obviously a limit with how much force you can exert through the mating surface of a single hobbed bolt and the side of the filament. Too much force and the teeth will simply rip off the side of the filament and then you'll have no feeding torque whatsoever. To get much higher torque you'd need to design an extruder that both supports the filament much better than modern designs do, and spreads the force out over a larger surface area, either by using a much larger diameter feed gear, or multiple tightly-coupled feed gears. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I went into some degree of detail on the feed mechanism in &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10090/can-commodity-3d-printer-extrusion-hardware-and-filament-be-used-for-injection-m/10100#10100&quot;&gt;this answer&lt;/a&gt; that another user asked about using a commercial extruder for plastic injection molding, which overlaps somewhat with your question here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know the original question assumed perfect heat transfer that was not a limiting factor to the process, but how that actually works is relevant to the question as well. E3D took one approach with their Volcano design, simply by making the melt zone much longer to increase heat transfer; the downside is there's obviously substantially more friction when you've got 4x the linear distance of molten plastic against metal, assuming you're not using a PTFE liner. This does have the advantage of letting the plastic take its time to reach the target temperature, decreasing how far over your target plastic temperature you need to have the heating element. One thing not often discussed in 3d printers is the fact that the plastic asymptotically approaches the temperature registered on your thermistor. If you're printing very, very slowly, your plastic will nearly be exactly at the target temperature. If you print very quickly with very high volumes, you'll tend to have slightly cooler plastic than intended because it simply wasn't in contact with the heater long enough to come up to temperature. The solution for very small designs might be higher temperatures, but the drawback there is that if you slow down even for a moment, say moving to thinner line widths or picking up and moving the extruder, you'll overheat the plastic. So there's practicality questions that need to be answered to determine how you'll actually heat that much plastic to the right temperature. Increased distance improves reliability at the cost of increased friction (and therefore extruder torque required), and increased temperature mostly bypasses that question at the cost of reliability. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;TL;DR Increased extrusion speed requires increased pressure, which increases friction dramatically and in a non-linear fashion and results in stripped filament. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16621" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-06-01T05:17:55.633" LastActivityDate="2019-06-01T05:17:55.633" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10142" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10147" CreationDate="2019-06-01T06:08:38.777" Score="2" ViewCount="1239" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to upload a file using Octoprint REST API - it seems to be possible as per the document described here, &lt;a href=&quot;http://docs.octoprint.org/en/master/api/files.html#upload-file-or-create-folder&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Upload file or create folder&lt;/a&gt;, but I can't figure it out how to do it with the Python request lib.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Currently what I'm doing is &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt; import requests&#xA;&#xA; def def Upload_File():&#xA;       fle={'location':&quot;j:/max.gcode&quot;}&#xA;       url='http://localhost:5000/api/files/{}'.format('local')&#xA;       payload={'select': 'true','print': 'false' }&#xA;       header={'content-type': 'multipart/form-data','X-Api-Key': 'FD550BD4DA2442BA906AD1850539D6DB' }&#xA;       response = requests.post(url, files=fle,data=payload,headers=header)&#xA;       print(response)&#xA;&#xA;if __name__=='__main__':&#xA;    Upload_File()&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The response returns status is 400&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My working env is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Windows 10 and Octoprint running on virtual environment.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15182" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2019-06-02T06:37:03.093" LastActivityDate="2019-06-02T06:37:03.093" Title="Uploading files using Octoprint REST API" Tags="|octoprint|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10143" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10146" CreationDate="2019-06-01T14:22:34.160" Score="5" ViewCount="644" Body="&lt;p&gt;I now own the Prusa3D MMU2.  The benefits, costs, and experience others have had is well documented.  I am interested in rebuilding my large, home-designed delta machine to be multi-material, and don't want to overlook strategies I haven't considered.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My original implementation used an E3D Kraken as the hot-end, and handled the inevitable delta tilt by adding two additional degrees of freedom to the head to lower the selected nozzle to the bed.  I've been through three generations of mechanisms, and I think the third will work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But, I feel that I am not seeing obvious and better alternatives.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, the question:  Through what methods and mechanisms can a multi-material (different polymers, different temperatures) FDM printer operate, and are there available designs or examples of best practices for those methods?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2082" LastActivityDate="2019-06-02T03:42:23.317" Title="Through what methods and mechanisms can a multi-material FDM printer operate?" Tags="|delta|multi-material|open-source|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10144" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10132" CreationDate="2019-06-01T14:31:39.793" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You are looking at overhangs in the design tool.  What matters are overhangs when printing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When designing the object, the coordinate system is convenient for working with the object.  Before slicing, the object can be rotated and repositioned for better printing.  Only after is it positioned for printing can the actual overhangs and bridges determined.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unless you wish to limit yourself to the design tools coordinate system, I wouldn't have the design tool generate support material, and I would ignore its comments about overhang angles.  First, bring the object into your slicer, position it on the print bed, and only then evaluate the need for support material.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To be honest, I often have a printing strategy in mind while I am designing an object, but when the object hits the printer I sometimes completely change my plan.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2082" LastActivityDate="2019-06-01T14:31:39.793" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10145" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10143" CreationDate="2019-06-01T14:47:01.530" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;One of the easiest ways that I've seen, which I'm a fan of, is simply putting Y splitters on your Bowden tube and having multiple feeds to a single hot end. The main benefit is that you only need a single hot end, so you don't have to worry about extruder offset or alignment or anything like that, but you do have to worry about material blending somewhat. Basically you end up needing to build a &quot;purge tower&quot; next to your printed items that you use to transition from one material to another.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's the Diamond hotend setup that basically moves the connections into the hotend itself, which reduces the size of your purge tower but increases the risk of burning if you're trying to print with materials with vastly different printing temps, like PLA and PETG.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could also have swappable hotends but that requires you to be there to manually swap the print head twice per layer. Don't recommend.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately there's only so many solutions to the multi material problem, either you put multiple materials through a single hotend, or you have multiple hotends. I'm a fan of the single hotend approach personally, especially on deltas where weight and space are at a premium and alignment becomes problematic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16621" LastActivityDate="2019-06-01T14:47:01.530" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10146" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10143" CreationDate="2019-06-01T15:40:38.757" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Let's look at various methods:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Multiple Hotends&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The oldest version and one of the best to print materials at vastly different print temperatures (like printing a cheaper PLA infill into a Polycarbonate shell - the print temperature difference is 60-100 °C) is to have 2 or more hotends. This way also avoids the need for purging towers. It does, however, limit the maximum size of the used printbed and few 2-printhead machines are cheap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Y-Coupler&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using a bowden setup, a Y-coupler could be used to feed the filament from 2 extruders into one hotend. On the switching tool command, E0 would pull the filament back some couple millimeters beyond the coupler and then E1 would push forward back into the meltzone. One will need a purging tower/object.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Special, multi-entry hotend&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some Hotends had been concieved that have 2 or more ways into the meltzone and the multiple extruders push along them. They generally are quite complex and hard to clean, but they allow to seamlessly blend between two filaments of the same material and create pretty much a controlled fade by precisely directing how much of either side is used on any layer. For clean cuts, a purging tower is necessary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Splicing filament&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is what the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.mosaicmfg.com/products/palette-2&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Palette 2&lt;/a&gt; and the Prusa MMU do: they push pieces of filament into a feeder tube that then are consumed by the printer via its own extruder. If they melt the filaments together like in the PAlette, it's proper splicing, if they just line up the next filament piece without merging into a spliced filament it's more like instant color switching.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This method is good for multi-color prints or using materials that have the same or similar&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; melting temperatures. It might or might not need a purge tower/object to get rid of the residue in the zones between the filaments.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This could btw also be done manually but should be avoided.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1 - or rather not too dissimilar, if the slicer is set up to do it right. By setting up the slicer cleverly, one can have the extruder retract the filament, then adjust the heat over the purge tower and then resume extruding in the purge object at the changed temperature. PLA/PVA from a Prusa MMU is known and advertised to be doable, PLA/ABS might be possible this way. For extreme dissimilarities like PLA/PC (60-100 °C) I have my doubts though. &lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Usability&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All of these variants are basically viable, but some have benefits over others. Service is in this comparison meant as &lt;em&gt;repairing&lt;/em&gt; a broken extruder, &lt;em&gt;maintaining&lt;/em&gt; as the operations needed to keep it in printing order.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;multiple &lt;em&gt;fully independent&lt;/em&gt; hotends is among the easiest to services. It could be direct drive (good for flexible filaments) or bowden. It is however heavy and usually not an option for delta printers. It has a downside that you have to perfectly level two hotend nozzles to be exactly on the same height, putting it in the hard to maintain category.&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;multiple hotends on the same carrier&lt;/em&gt; is harder to service and maintain in comparison to multiple &lt;em&gt;independent&lt;/em&gt; hotends as the components are very close together. Especially nozzle height adjustments can be more finicky.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Y-Coupler needs to be a bowden and has problem with materials that are very stringy. That makes it especially bad for flexible materials. Maintaining is like a normal hotend and servicing is almost the same.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Special hotends are hard to come by but could be available for direct drive, making them possible for flexible filaments. They are, as already noticed, very hard to service.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Splicing filament can be done with either direct drive or bowden setups. It is probaby the most convenient to use after setup and has the maintenance and serviceability of a single hotend and a fully separate machine. Their biggest downside is price and setup time needed.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2019-06-02T03:28:53.003" LastActivityDate="2019-06-02T03:28:53.003" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10147" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10142" CreationDate="2019-06-01T15:53:47.960" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I installed octoprint locally to help debug this problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your code snippet says &quot;def def Upload_File&quot; which is a syntax error.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you go into Octoprint, under Settings -&gt; Logging, and download octoprint.log, you'll notice it says &quot;WARNING - 400 POST /api/files/local (::1): No multipart boundary supplied&quot;. A quick google search led me to &lt;a href=&quot;https://stackoverflow.com/questions/17415084/multipart-data-post-using-python-requests-no-multipart-boundary-was-found&quot;&gt;this StackOverflow&lt;/a&gt; question, which states to remove the custom content-type header to fix this problem.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You actually need to open() the file, and assign that value to the 'file' field in the fle object definition, not just tell it where it's currently at on your machine. Additionally, you need to provide a filename field in the fle object. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I got your code snippet working as below, went ahead and swapped your API key back into it. You'll need to point the open() call to the actual location of your file on your hard drive, which I assume is j:/max.gcode, rather than mine which is just opening max.gcode from the running directory of the script.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;import requests &#xA;&#xA;def Upload_File():&#xA;   fle={'file': open('max.gcode', 'rb'), 'filename': 'max.gcode'}&#xA;   url='http://localhost:5000/api/files/{}'.format('local')&#xA;   payload={'select': 'true','print': 'false' }&#xA;   header={'X-Api-Key': 'FD550BD4DA2442BA906AD1850539D6DB' }&#xA;   response = requests.post(url, files=fle,data=payload,headers=header)&#xA;   print(response)&#xA;&#xA;if __name__=='__main__':&#xA;   Upload_File()&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, if you're going to be doing a whole lot of REST API shenanigans with your Octoprint server, &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/dougbrion/OctoRest&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;may I offer a prebuilt library?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16621" LastActivityDate="2019-06-01T15:53:47.960" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10148" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9870" CreationDate="2019-06-01T19:21:25.167" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had a similar issue when printing with ABS, because my print cooling fan only activated once it got to a certain height above the bed. I'd say you need to do a PID tuning session, insulate the bottom of the bed better, and see if you can make sure your cooling fan doesn't blow air over the bed itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16621" LastActivityDate="2019-06-01T19:21:25.167" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10149" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8435" CreationDate="2019-06-02T01:27:42.673" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the extruder extrudes fine from the control panel, chances are there's a configuration problem somewhere. For example, check your extruder steps/mm in the firmware to make sure it's not a nonsensical value; check the slicer settings to make sure that the filament diameter, line width, and layer height are all correct; make sure you're not trying to extrude in volumetric mode without having configured volumetric printing in your firmware and slicer correctly; and finally check your temperature control settings. When I first set up my fleabay 3d printer, I couldn't get my printer to work because the hotend minimum shutoff temp (thermistor disconnect protection basically) was set to something like 195C and the print temperature was 180C. I had an almost identical issue when I changed my fan assembly and it started blowing on the wrong part of the hotend, causing the firmware to register that entirely too much energy was being put into the extruder. Check the minimum temps for both hotend and heated bed and see if one of them is tripping your failsafes and stopping the extruder before printing even begins.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16621" LastActivityDate="2019-06-02T01:27:42.673" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10150" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8204" CreationDate="2019-06-02T03:41:53.783" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't think you're going to find either a firmware feature or a slicer feature that handles specifically what you want to do. The slicer would probably be the best place to put it, and I'd recommend maybe opening a feature request ticket with Ultimaker, because that sounds like an awesome feature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That being said, there's nothing stopping you from post-processing your GCode file after it's been generated. If you're experienced with python at all, that's the place I'd recommend you start.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll probably want to do it via the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Find the first line number that does a retraction.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sum up all the extrusion distances between that line and the starting point (the beginning of the file)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Replace the retraction distance and feedrate with whatever your short/medium/long retraction settings are&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Store that line number as your new starting point&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;GOTO 1.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're using Slic3r, there's actually a post-processing script function built into the app itself, you just need to write the script and give it to the application to make the whole process hands-off. For other slicers you'll probably just have to run the script manually between slicing and printing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16621" LastActivityDate="2019-06-02T03:41:53.783" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10151" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10143" CreationDate="2019-06-02T03:42:23.317" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Another way to combine the simpler geometry of a single nozzle, and to get the reduced mass of a single extrusion tool would be to make it like a CNC machine with a tool changer.  One material is printed, then the hot end, extruder, and feed tube are swapped out for another which is primed and ready with the next material.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lots of mechanical precision problems exist for arranging for the nozzles to be in the very same place, plus or minus a small tolerance.  This is worsened by the presence of filament bits and strings which seem to eventually pollute the workspace.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If that could be worked out, one could have a plethora of extrusion tools, nozzle sizes, materials, multi-material mixing chambers, and other complexities.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;E3D was talking about such a printer, but I haven't seen a product... only an invitation to send money as a show of interest in such a printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2082" LastActivityDate="2019-06-02T03:42:23.317" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10153" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10132" CreationDate="2019-06-02T14:42:27.603" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm a regular user of Blender and the 3D Printing add-on to design and print stuff. It will always consider the bottom of your model as an overhang, and it should pose no problem when you send it to print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The add-on will say the bottom is an overhang because, in the virtuality of Blender, the object you're designing, like the cube in your picture, is floating in an empty void and the add-on has no setting to tell it 'this face is a bottom, don't check it for overhang'. I guess it could be programmed, but I'm not sure that it would be a good idea since it would then keep considering this face as the bottom even if you turn the object 180°.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can safely ignore that particular warning from the 3D printing add-on when you send your object to be printed, as long as it is printed with the same orientation than in Blender. And it should be, since the export in STL will keep the orientation of the object along the X, Y and Z axis.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12917" LastActivityDate="2019-06-02T14:42:27.603" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10154" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-06-02T18:29:56.387" Score="7" ViewCount="1889" Body="&lt;p&gt;I understand that heater blocks act as kind of “low-pass-filter” on the temperature change of the hotend, but why do we need that?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wouldn’t it be better to have as little metal as possible in order to be able to control temperature changes quickly and precisely (using PID, PWM plus maybe some predictions based on printed G-code)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16467" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2021-01-06T15:20:12.883" LastActivityDate="2021-01-06T15:20:12.883" Title="Why have heater blocks on hotends?" Tags="|hotend|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10155" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10154" CreationDate="2019-06-02T18:37:53.650" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think the idea is to &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; change the temperature fast. You want it to maintain a certain temperature so you have consistent flow. The extra mass at the hot end provides the mass which is needed to maintain the heat. If you don't maintain the heat while you print, you'll have inconsistent filament flow, which will screw up your print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11242" LastActivityDate="2019-06-02T18:37:53.650" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10156" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10154" CreationDate="2019-06-02T20:00:57.333" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Let's look at the elements and what they do:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;em&gt;Heater Cartridge&lt;/em&gt; (blue) is the device that converts electric to thermal energy to melt the plastic. 30 and 40 W are common.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;em&gt;Thermosensor&lt;/em&gt; (red) is there to give feedback to the mainboard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;em&gt;Filament Path&lt;/em&gt; (gold) in this area is made up of the &lt;em&gt;nozzle&lt;/em&gt; and the &lt;em&gt;heatbreak&lt;/em&gt;, it contains the &lt;em&gt;meltzone&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;em&gt;Heater Block&lt;/em&gt; (transparent green) is the mounting for all parts. It also acts as the medium to transfer the thermal energy from the &lt;em&gt;Heater Cartidge&lt;/em&gt; to the &lt;em&gt;Thermo Sensor&lt;/em&gt; and the &lt;em&gt;Filament Path&lt;/em&gt;. It also acts as a dampener for the control circuit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, let's put things together and omit the wires and cold end (and internal geometry of the filament path, cause I am lazy):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/b0nE1.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/b0nE1.png&quot; alt=&quot;Mock up of a hotend assembly&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, the construction gives us several reasons for the shape of the heater block:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ease of construction. Taking a simple block and adding a couple of holes and one cut allows very fast production.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Maximum contact surface. To get the maximum contact surface to the heater cartrige, the heater block has to make contact along its whole length, dictating a minimum size in 2 direction. The same is true for the thermosensor.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The heater block transmits temperature pretty much radially from the heater cartridge. Because it is metal, the gradient between areas is very low, but it is measureable. These would be the thermal equivalent lines on heating up:&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LL01Q.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LL01Q.png&quot; alt=&quot;Heating lines around the Heater Cartridge&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may easily notice that the temperature lines appear more straight as they come closer to the filament path and thermosensor. This helps to give the filament in the heatbreak and nozzle more even heating and better printing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The mockup I made has a deliberate flaw though: a change in temperature first affects the filament and then shows up on the sensor, making the temperature in the filament path wobble to the extreme. The Heater Block acts pretty much as a transmitter just as much as a time dilation between the heating command and the pickup.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because this arrangement is not very good, let's swap sensor and filament path around and look at the same lines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cTqqo.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cTqqo.png&quot; alt=&quot;Arrangement 2 of a Hotend assembly&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now we have a much shorter feedback loop, allowing our printer to react quicker to temperature changes and the filament path also gets heated more evenly. The temperature inside the filament path does change less around the target temperature. The whole block now acts mostly as a distribution medium but also as a storage for heat energy:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Up to this point, we did not take into account a very simple fact: the hotend drains thermal energy via two areas:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The outer surface of the heater block emits heat to the air.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Filament gets molten and extruded.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Factor 1 is simple and here a bigger heater block actually is positive: The thermal 'storage' capacity is dependant on the volume, so goes with &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$xyz \approx a^3$&lt;/span&gt;. The surface to emit heat from goes with &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$2\times(xy+xz+yz)\approx 6\times a^2$&lt;/span&gt;. Plotting a graph of that shows us the square-cube law: the capacity increase for one unit does increase the surface just by a fraction of that, so the storage gets better the larger the heater block is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Factor 2 is why we need to have a storage of thermal energy in the first place: the flow of filament is not exactly the same all the time. Of course, we have moments of even flow, but we also have moments of low or no flow when the printer moves between parts of the print. This alteration of the drain of thermal energy from the heater block means that if we would go down to a bare minimum size, we'd heat up the block fast whenever we are on a move action and cool as the extrusion starts till equilibrium is achieved again. The more thermal capacity is there to store energy, the less the lack of extrusion will immediately affect the print and the more even the temperature will be in the filament path.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Fast printing?!&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How is faster printing achieved with a special hotend? Well, 4 factors are used in hotends meant for very fast or very hot printing:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Longer, more powerful heater cartridge.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Longer filament path.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Extra large Heater Block to even out the temperature changes under extrusion more.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Insulating the Heater Block to the air.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of the prime examples would be an e3D-Volcano.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2021-01-06T13:07:32.717" LastActivityDate="2021-01-06T13:07:32.717" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10157" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-06-02T20:48:38.483" Score="1" ViewCount="1489" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am trying to run this 3D printer:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fabrikator Mini V2 Turnigy/Malyan M100&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone have the Cura settings?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12878" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2019-06-16T14:55:33.790" LastActivityDate="2019-06-17T12:19:55.470" Title="Cura settings for Fabrikator Mini V2 Turnigy or Malyan M100" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2019-06-16T16:00:28.113" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10158" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10040" CreationDate="2019-06-03T01:12:13.690" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;With the suggestions from @R.., I played with a couple of different screw profiles that come with fusion 360, and found these settings to be helpful:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gMx1l.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gMx1l.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After cutting the hole with these screw settings, I selected all the faces of the hole and off set them by &lt;code&gt;-0.1 mm&lt;/code&gt;. Originally, I was offsetting the hole by like &lt;code&gt;-0.02 mm&lt;/code&gt; and the peg wouldn't screw. After learning a bit about tolerances of printers, I expanded this to the &lt;code&gt;.1&lt;/code&gt; value and it screwed in magically! I haven't yet worked out if the pegs are water tight, so I may have to revert back to the previous thread settings that seem like they would be tighter, or maybe I'll invest in an o-ring. Suggestions welcome. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks to everyone for their input. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16591" LastActivityDate="2019-06-03T01:12:13.690" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10159" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10160" CreationDate="2019-06-03T05:58:00.617" Score="1" ViewCount="408" Body="&lt;p&gt;Do you have any specific process recommendations to achieve support for the parts hanging above 45 degrees, using open source software?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16474" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2019-06-03T13:31:00.020" LastActivityDate="2019-06-04T07:56:24.947" Title="How to create supports for the parts hanging above 45 degrees?" Tags="|3d-design|diy-3d-printer|support-structures|open-source|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2019-06-03T17:48:55.613" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10160" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10159" CreationDate="2019-06-03T06:01:57.700" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;PrusaSlicer has &lt;strong&gt;support enforcers&lt;/strong&gt; you can place on areas that need support.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See this video: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yqMXfvWA-aY&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Prusa Slicer Support Enforcers&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Automatic supports&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are automatic supports, in the &lt;strong&gt;Supports&lt;/strong&gt; dropdown menu, select &lt;strong&gt;Everywhere&lt;/strong&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/09AEt.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Supports menu - Everywhere is selected&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/09AEt.png&quot; alt=&quot;Supports menu - Everywhere is selected&quot; title=&quot;Supports menu - Everywhere is selected&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Click &lt;strong&gt;Yes&lt;/strong&gt; in the resulting dialog:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Xvlso.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Click Yes in the dialog&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Xvlso.png&quot; alt=&quot;Click Yes in the dialog&quot; title=&quot;Click Yes in the dialog&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Click on the &lt;strong&gt;Slice&lt;/strong&gt; icon in the bottom left:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fervx.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Click the Slice icon&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fervx.png&quot; alt=&quot;Click the Slice icon&quot; title=&quot;Click the Slice icon&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will end up with a &lt;em&gt;lot&lt;/em&gt; of supports:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XWT28.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Resulting print with supports&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XWT28.png&quot; alt=&quot;Resulting print with supports&quot; title=&quot;Resulting print with supports&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, this method generally results in too much support...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Custom Suport Enforcers&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So turn off &lt;strong&gt;Supports&lt;/strong&gt; in the drop down menu, select &lt;strong&gt;None&lt;/strong&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ag82L.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Supports menu - None is selected&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ag82L.png&quot; alt=&quot;Supports menu - None is selected&quot; title=&quot;Supports menu - None is selected&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, in the &lt;strong&gt;Print Settings&lt;/strong&gt; tab, under &lt;strong&gt;Support Material&lt;/strong&gt;, disable &lt;strong&gt;Auto Generated Supports&lt;/strong&gt; and enable &lt;strong&gt;Generate Support Material&lt;/strong&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EDA09.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Print Settings - Support Material&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EDA09.png&quot; alt=&quot;Print Settings - Support Material settings&quot; title=&quot;Print Settings - Support Material&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then right click on the model and select &lt;strong&gt;Box&lt;/strong&gt; from the &lt;strong&gt;Add Support Enforcer&lt;/strong&gt; menu item:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/90MJS.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Add Support Enforcer menu&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/90MJS.png&quot; alt=&quot;Add Support Enforcer - Box menu&quot; title=&quot;Add Support Enforcer menu&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can move by clicking the &lt;strong&gt;Move&lt;/strong&gt; button in the left hand palette,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MbJWh.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Move button&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MbJWh.png&quot; alt=&quot;Move button&quot; title=&quot;Move button&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;resize by clicking the &lt;strong&gt;Resize&lt;/strong&gt; button&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Dtu7r.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Resize button&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Dtu7r.png&quot; alt=&quot;Resize button&quot; title=&quot;Resize button&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and re-shape the &lt;strong&gt;Box&lt;/strong&gt; as necessary, to support the difficult overhanging parts parts only. Here we can see three boxes have been added - pale blue for the previously added boxes and green for the current box:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Rfp9h.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Three Support Enforcer Boxes added&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Rfp9h.png&quot; alt=&quot;Three Support Enforcer Boxes added&quot; title=&quot;Three Support Enforcer Boxes added&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And a fourth final &lt;strong&gt;Box&lt;/strong&gt; for the tail:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mDB4I.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Fourth Support Enforcer Boxes added&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mDB4I.png&quot; alt=&quot;Fourth Support Enforcer Boxes added&quot; title=&quot;Fourth Support Enforcer Boxes added&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, when you hit the &lt;strong&gt;Slice&lt;/strong&gt; button, there will be much less support structure than when using Automatic supports:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oc4sE.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Reduced amount of support structure&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oc4sE.png&quot; alt=&quot;Reduced amount of support structure&quot; title=&quot;Reduced amount of support structure&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Parts of the model that the slicer thinks still needs support will be highlighted in dark blue (such as the elbow and back of the head):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kUqpg.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Unsupported parts highlighted in dark blue&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kUqpg.png&quot; alt=&quot;Unsupported parts highlighted in dark blue&quot; title=&quot;Unsupported parts highlighted in dark blue&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Add a cylinder support enforcer:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6kUih.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Add Support Enforcer - Cylinder menu&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6kUih.png&quot; alt=&quot;Add Support Enforcer - Cylinder menu&quot; title=&quot;Add Support Enforcer - Cylinder menu&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Resize and re-shape as before and move into position below the elbow:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7rhWo.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Putting cylinder support enforcer in place&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7rhWo.png&quot; alt=&quot;Putting cylinder support enforcer in place&quot; title=&quot;Putting cylinder support enforcer in place&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Adding a second cylinder as a support enforcer&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4hZvV.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Putting second cylinder support enforcer in place&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4hZvV.png&quot; alt=&quot;Putting second cylinder support enforcer in place&quot; title=&quot;Putting second cylinder support enforcer in place&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Upon hitting &lt;strong&gt;Slice&lt;/strong&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/K1Qrp.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Final supports&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/K1Qrp.png&quot; alt=&quot;Final supports&quot; title=&quot;Final supports&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now in &lt;strong&gt;Print Settings&lt;/strong&gt; - &lt;strong&gt;Support Material&lt;/strong&gt; - &lt;strong&gt;Pattern&lt;/strong&gt; change it from &lt;strong&gt;Rectilinear&lt;/strong&gt; to &lt;strong&gt;Rectilinear Grid&lt;/strong&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1zJOr.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Print Settings - Support Material - Pattern settings&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1zJOr.png&quot; alt=&quot;Print Settings - Support Material - Pattern settings&quot; title=&quot;Print Settings - Support Material - Pattern settings&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For prints with curves and details &lt;strong&gt;Rectilinear Grid&lt;/strong&gt; works better, than &lt;strong&gt;Rectilinear&lt;/strong&gt; (which is fine for supporting a plain cube in the air). It is easier to break the support off the print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now save your hard work as an AMF file:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3pFls.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Save the enforcers as AMF&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3pFls.png&quot; alt=&quot;Save the enforcers as AMF&quot; title=&quot;Save the enforcers as AMF&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This file maintains all of the support enforcers so that they can be modified if the actual print needs some adjustments - without having to re-add all of the support enforcers all over again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16380" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:29:41.667" LastActivityDate="2019-06-04T07:56:24.947" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10161" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-06-03T10:52:33.603" Score="3" ViewCount="1943" Body="&lt;p&gt;I read that PTFE starts to deteriorate past 260&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C. Does that mean heating to 250&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C is no problem at all, or will that destroy the PTFE material over time to?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16467" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-06-03T12:22:17.320" LastActivityDate="2020-12-23T17:27:55.810" Title="PTFE detoriation temperature" Tags="|ptfe-tube|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10162" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10161" CreationDate="2019-06-03T11:28:31.497" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Degradation starts at 260&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C and shifts towards full blown decomposition towards 350&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C. 250&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C is technically fine, but you should keep in mind that you've got little to no wiggle room for error at that temperature. Your thermistor and board may not be accurate enough to guarantee you'll never overshoot that temperature, and the way 3D printers often handle temperature adjustment exacerbates that risk. You &lt;strong&gt;can&lt;/strong&gt; print at 250&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C, just be aware you've got basically no margin for error. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16621" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-06-03T12:23:55.920" LastActivityDate="2019-06-03T12:23:55.920" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10163" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7963" CreationDate="2019-06-03T15:33:45.677" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;This actually just looks like heating issues. Cura has an option to set a minimum layer time and speed, and any layer that takes less than that amount of time it'll lift the head away from the print to allow the plastic to cool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately, the only things I can find for Simplify3D around head lift and minimum layer times are software feature request posts from 2017, or some features around scaling print speed for small layers, but unfortunately that'll just print the same object much slower and may not properly allow the part to cool as the melting-temperature print head is still sitting directly on top of the part.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hate to be someone to suggest a software change, but you might try using Cura and seeing if you get better results with features such as this. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16621" LastActivityDate="2019-06-03T15:33:45.677" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10164" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7572" CreationDate="2019-06-03T16:23:18.637" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;What you're seeing there is commonly referred to as &quot;salmon skin&quot; and isn't a result of the motor stepping, but due to power backfeeding from the motors. Install a set of flyback diodes on each axis (you can buy these premade specifically for printer motors, normally in sets of 8 diodes per motor) and you should find the issue either minimised or eliminated entirely. It's a very cheap upgrade and I'm surprised it's not a standard feature on printers that have affected drivers these days.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16655" LastActivityDate="2019-06-03T16:23:18.637" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10165" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10154" CreationDate="2019-06-03T16:26:34.850" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Heater blocks are used on hot ends because they are the current engineering compromise between the design factors of cost, reliability, lifetime, maintenance, and performance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ideally, there would be no heater block, the heater would have infinite wattage, the nozzle would heat and cool instantly while transferring heat to the filament, and the temperature of the molten plastic would be measured instantly.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But as this is engineering instead of magic, none of these conditions is the ideal.  The engineering problem is to find the right compromise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Each of these can be treated separately.  How do we measure the temperature of the plastic?  Assume we have a tiny thermocouple in the plastic flow.  Why thermocouple?  Because it is smaller, less prone to manufacturing tolerance, and is good for higher temperatures. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Imagine a heater where the heater wire forms the threads into which the nozzle screws and also where the nozzle has thinner walls to reduce the nozzle's thermal mass.  Further, the nozzle is made of diamond which has almost ten times the thermal conductivity of brass.  Yes, machining diamond is not easy, and the supply of large enough diamonds is limited, but we're trying not to compromise yet. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this scheme, there is no heater block.  We instantly know the temperature of the plastic, and we can dump large amounts of heat into the system to get a high enough temperature.  We still must hold the nozzle in place and connect it with the filament source (typically the job of the &quot;heat break&quot;), so let's make that of thermally insulating ceramic so it stays out of the heat transfer process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With this, we have a hot-end where we would have great control.  We are directly measuring the parameter we care about -- the temperature of the plastic.  We can deliver heat rapidly.  When the extrusion rate increases, the temperature drops a little and we dump in more heat.  The thermocouple is fragile (don't try a cold-pull), and is subject to wear.  The nozzle is very expensive and difficult to make.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ok, move the thermocouple to the outside of the nozzle's tip.  Now we have a heater intimately wrapped with the threads of the nozzle.  That is probably hard to make, so let's use a conventional heater cartridge that is very close to the nozzle threads.  Let's put in as many heaters as we can pack together near the threads.  If we angle the heaters they won't hit each other, so suppose we can put in four heaters spaced around the nozzle.  More heat, less distance from the heat to the nozzle.  Make this new heat block of silver, just like the nozzle.  Silver has 80% higher thermal conductivity than aluminum.  (Or we could use diamond, but really, who has diamonds that big?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was assuming a thermocouple to measure the nozzle temperature, and it is small enough that it could nestle into a small home in the nozzle.  We could use a thermister pressed into a hole in the nozzle, but experience has shown that thermisters are fragile.  We have found that the tiny glass beads are prone to either breaking of the glass, separating from the thin leads.  The electronics to measure temperature with a thermistor is simpler and less expensive than a thermocouple and seems to have good enough resolution, accuracy, and temperature range.  If we follow that experience, we will package the thermistor in a cartridge housing that is easier and more reliably placed and protects the thermistor from damage.  But the cartridge is too large to connect directly with the nozzle, so we'll put it in the same block with the heaters.  After all, they are silver and conduct heat very well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This may be a better hot-end than the conventional system.  It heats faster and more accurately measures the temperature of the plastic.  But there are problems. Silver is heavier, and four heaters and their wiring have more mass than one.  And, the holes for the heater cartridges are each in a different plane, so it is more expensive to machine.  And the price for the silver may be a factor.  Silver costs (today) \$215/lb, where aluminum is $0.80/lb.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this answer, I have tried to show how heater blocks are useful for coupling the heat from the heaters to the nozzle and to show that there are alternatives with perhaps superior performance but problems with reliability or cost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit:  In a comment, the OP asks why we do not machine away extra material that is not required to couple heat to the nozzle, and correctly raised the issue of cost.  There may also be a performance issue.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The conventional heater is only on one side of the nozzle.  When the heater is cooled by the filament, it draws heat from all sides.  The thermal mass on the non-heated side helps with stability by providing a source of heat from which the nozzle can draw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the heater side, a factor to consider is the coupling of heat from the heater cartridge to the heater block.  Removing additional material should be evaluated to assure that it does not increase the thermal resistance from the heater to the rest of the block and the thermistor.  This is important to help with thermal stability, and also to assure that the heaters do not overheat themselves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For thermal conductivity values, I used &lt;a href=&quot;http://hyperphysics.phy-astr.gsu.edu/hbase/Tables/thrcn.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this reference&lt;/a&gt;.&#xA;For metals pricing, I used Google to find spot metal prices on 6/3/2019.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2082" LastEditorUserId="2082" LastEditDate="2019-06-03T18:19:37.383" LastActivityDate="2019-06-03T18:19:37.383" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10166" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10157" CreationDate="2019-06-03T18:31:45.510" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I googled your machine name and found this HobbyKing page.  There is a link here to CURA settings. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://hobbyking.com/en_us/mini-fabrikator-v2-3d-printer-us-plug.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Page with CURA settings&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2082" LastActivityDate="2019-06-03T18:31:45.510" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10167" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-06-03T19:56:05.643" Score="1" ViewCount="2205" Body="&lt;p&gt;I need to cool some liquid (250&amp;nbsp;°C) while it’s flowing through a tube which has to be able to bend and flex.&#xA;My idea is to make a flexible tube with a second tube spiraling around it through which coolant will flow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I’d like to 3D print this tube if possible so I wonder if there is some printable filament that:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;doesn’t melt at 250&amp;nbsp;°C&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;is flexible enough that it can print some tube that can bend (bending radius of 30&amp;nbsp;cm)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;optimally also has good heat conductivity&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any 3D printer filament available that has these properties?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16467" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2019-06-04T19:11:38.257" LastActivityDate="2021-06-29T07:01:20.167" Title="High temperature flexible filament" Tags="|filament-choice|flexible|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10168" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7572" CreationDate="2019-06-03T20:07:15.047" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am looking at the example print you supplied and trying to understand the defects.  Was the object printed vertically, so that the object Z-axis is running from top to bottom in the picture? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If so, then the horizontal defects look like resonance artifacts, which could be caused by the issue you raise of the stepper motor not responding to small movement commands.  The only thing that will prevent the motor from responding is stiction, or difficulty starting a movement.  Stiction is a non-linear aspect of friction in which the &quot;starting&quot; friction is higher than the &quot;sliding&quot; friction.  It might be worth checking for surfaces which must slide against each other, and assure they are lubricated with a dry, non-tacky lubricant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A typical delta machine behaves the same way on each layer.  The equations which govern how high on the tower the top of the delta-leg should be for each x,y, and z point is linear in Z, but non-linear in X and Y.  With that in mind, I have no hypothesis to describe the defects that would be described as cathedrals if they were wood grain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or, perhaps the object was printed so that the surface shown is parallel to the bed?  If so, the defects looks like more than a couple of microsteps.  Is it possible that one drive is not working correctly?  If so, I would suggest that the motor on the tower pointed to (or pointed from) by the cathedrals is not working like the others.  It could be binding too tightly to the tower, or the pully may be loose, or the driver isn't working correctly for one of the two coils.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2082" LastActivityDate="2019-06-03T20:07:15.047" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10169" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7963" CreationDate="2019-06-03T21:35:24.037" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The OP found the solution and shared this in comments but has not written a proper answer. The OP found:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;To complete this, the issue was related to the part cooling fan not spinning correctly. After replacing it the problem was gone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2019-06-03T21:35:24.037" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2019-06-03T21:35:24.037" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10170" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9845" CreationDate="2019-06-04T03:53:20.803" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;While this looks a lot like stringing, it's not what I would call stringing. I usually reserve that term for material that should never have left the nozzle to begin with, due to insufficient or missing retraction or excessive compression of the filament between the extruder and the nozzle. The &quot;strings&quot; you've shown look like desired wall extrusions that did not adhere to the adjacent walls in the same layer or to the previous layer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is common when printing concave perimeters that are overhanging, due to a combination of minimal-to-no contact with previous layer and acceleration of the nozzle away from the previous wall in the current layer. Sometimes under-extrusion can also be a factor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can often mitigate this by:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;using thinner layers (for the whole print, or &quot;adaptive layer height&quot; that will dynamically adjust as needed). For a given wall slope (fixed rise over run), this will reduce the &quot;rise&quot;, and thereby place the walls of the next layer such that they overlap more with the previous layer. Sometimes this makes the difference as to whether they overlap &lt;em&gt;at all&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;increasing hotend temperature. This will improve bonding with adjacent wall and with previous layer, if there's any contact with it.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;decreasing print speed, especially for outer walls. This will reduce the effect of the nozzle pulling the wall away from the adjacent wall it's supposed to bond to, and will also deliver more heat to the adjacent wall and previous layer wall you want to bond to.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All three of these will also help if under-extrusion is part of the underlying cause.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can't get any of this to work, using supports is always an option, but spherical (as opposed to flattened) domes generally &quot;shouldn't&quot; need support to print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2019-06-04T03:53:20.803" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10171" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10184" CreationDate="2019-06-04T04:22:43.570" Score="7" ViewCount="2802" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to know the math behind how Slic3r calculates E values. &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$E_{value}$&lt;/span&gt; represents amount of filament in mm (unless volumetric extrusion is selected) that has to be fed into the hotend to obtain a road of specific extrusion width.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Consider an example with following parameters: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Nozzle diameter = 0.6 mm &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Layer height = 0.35 mm &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Extrusion width = 0.61 mm (for external perimeter) &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Length of the line segment (distance of the deposition path) = 98.2 mm &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Diameter of filament = 1.75 mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;First part of the question&lt;/strong&gt;: How is &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$E_{value}$&lt;/span&gt; calculated for this case? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Second part of the question&lt;/strong&gt;: How is velocity of extruder motor calculated for this case?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Slic3r manual has limited information on flow math but is not comprehensive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's assume volume of plastic fed in equal volume of plastic comes out&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$$Volume_{in} = \pi\times{(\frac{d}{2})}^2 \times E \times x = \frac{\pi\cdot d^2}{4}\times E \times x$$&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Where, &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$d$&lt;/span&gt; = diameter of the filament&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$x$&lt;/span&gt; = extrusion multiplier&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$E$&lt;/span&gt; = &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$E_{value}$&lt;/span&gt; to solve for&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$$Volume_{out} = (A_{road} \times L)$$&lt;/span&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Length of path, &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$L$&lt;/span&gt;, is obtained from start and end coordinates&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Area of the road, &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$A_{road}$&lt;/span&gt;, is calculated according to this &lt;a href=&quot;https://manual.slic3r.org/advanced/flow-math&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;link&lt;/a&gt; (Slic3r flow math; Section: Extruding on top of a surface). The formula for area of the road according to Slic3r manual is:&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$$A_{road} = (w - h)\times h + \pi\times{(\frac{h}{2})}^2 $$&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Where, &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$w$&lt;/span&gt; = Extrusion width &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$h$&lt;/span&gt; = layer height&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Seems like I am missing something. Math doesn't yield me same result as Slic3r &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$E$&lt;/span&gt; value.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many of you have marked this question duplicate. I know the first question is similar to what has asked before (calculating E value) but the answer doesn't match actual E value in G-code. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also there is a second question on how to calculate extrusion speed given an E value&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have added G-code from actual Slic3r with the same settings as above to check the math.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The advance extrusion width settings in slic3r are as shown in the picture below:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Vdm10.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Vdm10.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;The settings are from a Prusa config for 0.6 mm nozzle&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Consider a 100 mm x 100 mm x 5 mm part (X x Y x Z dimensions). Following is the output G-code from Slic3r:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;; generated by Slic3r 1.3.0 on 2019-06-04 at 16:36:24&#xA;&#xA;; external perimeters extrusion width = 0.61mm (6.55mm^3/s)&#xA;&#xA;; perimeters extrusion width = 0.65mm (10.54mm^3/s)&#xA;&#xA;; infill extrusion width = 0.70mm (15.25mm^3/s)&#xA;&#xA;; solid infill extrusion width = 0.65mm (8.78mm^3/s)&#xA;&#xA;; top infill extrusion width = 0.60mm (6.43mm^3/s)&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;------ Values of parameters defined in Slic3r -------&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;first_layer_acceleration = 1000&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;first_layer_bed_temperature = 60&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;first_layer_extrusion_width = 0.65&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;first_layer_speed = 30&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;first_layer_temperature = 215&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;first_layer_height = 0.35&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;max_print_speed = 100&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;nozzle_diameter = 0.6 &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;external_perimeter_extrusion_width = 0.61&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;------ some initialization lines above --------&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;G1 F1800&#xA;&#xA;G1 X78.400 Y169.100 E8.21483 ; perimeter&#xA;&#xA;**G1 X78.400 Y70.900 E8.21483 ; perimeter**&#xA;&#xA;G1 X176.600 Y70.900 E8.21483 ; perimeter&#xA;&#xA;G1 X176.600 Y169.010 E8.20731 ; perimeter&#xA;&#xA;G1 X177.175 Y169.675 F10800.000 ; move to first perimeter point&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The above code snippet refers to the perimeter of the very first layer in the print. Let us consider the highlighted line in above G-code. According to equations we have above, the values of the variables are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$d$&lt;/span&gt; = 1.75&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$x$&lt;/span&gt; = 1&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$E$&lt;/span&gt; = &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$E_{value}$&lt;/span&gt; to solve for&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$w$&lt;/span&gt; = 0.61&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$h$&lt;/span&gt; = 0.35&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$L$&lt;/span&gt; = 169.100 - 70.900 = 98.2&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Area of the depositied road is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$$A_{road} = (0.61 - 0.35)\times 0.35 + \pi\times{(\frac{0.35}{2})}^2 $$&lt;/span&gt;&#xA;&lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$$A_{road} = 0.187211 mm^2 $$&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For calculating &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$E_{value}$&lt;/span&gt;, We use volume equality&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$$Volume_{in} = Volume_{out}$$&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$$E_{value} = \frac{A\times L \times 4} {\pi\times d^2 \times x} = \frac{0.187211 \times 98.2 \times 4} {\pi \times 1.75^2 \times 1} = 7.6432 $$&lt;/span&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$E_{value}$&lt;/span&gt; in the G-code is 8.214&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a big difference isn't it? I know about the die swell effect and expansion of molten plastic at the tip, but there seems to be no uniform compensation factor for this!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16418" LastEditorUserId="16418" LastEditDate="2019-06-07T16:36:26.097" LastActivityDate="2019-06-07T16:36:26.097" Title="How is E value calculated in Slic3r?" Tags="|slicing|extrusion|slic3r|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10172" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10167" CreationDate="2019-06-04T05:29:04.983" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;3D printing nerd showed a couple of filaments that fits this in his latest video &quot;Printers at RAPID + TCT 2019&quot;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/obCgJQp5Yj8?start=0&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Firstly a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=obCgJQp5Yj8&amp;amp;t=35&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Nylon 6 high temperature filament&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/x7lo5.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Flexible 3D printed part - printed from high temperature nylon&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/x7lo5.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Flexible 3D printed part - printed from high temperature nylon&quot; title=&quot;Flexible 3D printed part - printed from high temperature nylon&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another part of the video shows another flexible print, created on a four axis 3D printer, using &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=obCgJQp5Yj8&amp;amp;t=987&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;TPU filament&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Wrgxm.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Flexible 3D printed part - printed from TPU&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Wrgxm.png&quot; alt=&quot;Flexible 3D printed part - printed from TPU&quot; title=&quot;Flexible 3D printed part - printed from TPU&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8826" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-06-06T22:07:52.973" LastActivityDate="2019-06-06T22:07:52.973" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10173" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-06-04T10:17:23.857" Score="2" ViewCount="851" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd like to calculate the power lost through the filament being extruded (or in other words, at how many Watts I'd have to run an ideal heater that loses heat ONLY through filament so that it stays at constant temperature).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Power is defined in Watts as &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$\text W =\frac{\text J}{\text s}$&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Specific_heat_capacity&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Specific heat capacity&lt;/a&gt; of a material is defined as &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$C =\frac{\text J}{ \text K \times\text{kg}}$&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When extrusion happens, the filament of higher temperature leaves the hotend while the same weight of filament of lower temperature enters the hotend.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's say the specific heat capacity of the filament is &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$C$&lt;/span&gt; and the extrusion rate &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$r$&lt;/span&gt; is given with units kg/s. The temperatures are &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$T$&lt;/span&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it correct then to say that the power consumption of filament extrusion is &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$W = (c\times T_\text{Nozzle} - c\times T_\text{Environment}) \times r$&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;meaning that if I would run a heater cartridge at exactly &amp;quot;W&amp;quot; watts and extrude filament with rate &amp;quot;r&amp;quot; and the block would not loose heat through any other means than through the filament extrusion, then the nozzle temperature would stay constant?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16467" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-04-16T21:20:44.623" LastActivityDate="2021-04-16T22:01:18.343" Title="Power consumption of filament extrusion" Tags="|extrusion|heat-management|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10174" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10173" CreationDate="2019-06-04T11:46:27.980" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is very simply stated, in fact the specific heat is a function of temperature and state of the material (liquid or solid). Also you need to consider which type of specific heat you use, e.g. the one for constant volume &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$C_V$&lt;/span&gt; or for constant pressure &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$C_P$&lt;/span&gt;. Constant pressure is probably preferred considering the mechanics of the printer (pressing filament into the nozzle-heatbreak assembly).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A very interesting source of information is the &lt;a href=&quot;https://polymerdatabase.com/polymer%20physics/HeatCapacity.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;PolymerDatabase.com&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This source confirms that:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;In the case of polymers, we have to distinguish between the heat capacity of liquid, rubbery and glassy polymers. The heat capacity increases with increasing temperature, therefore, a liquid or rubbery polymer can hold more energy than a solid polymer. All materials show this increase in heat capacity with temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;also:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Specific heat capacities as a function of temperature have been published for only a limited number of polymers. In many cases, the heat capacity (at constant pressure) as a function of temperature can be approximated by straight lines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In such cases you can use the value of the specific heat at a predefined temperature (in thermodynamics that is frequently 298 K) to get approximations for your thermoplastic material. These formulae can then be used to integrate over the temperature rise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please remember that a cartridge is of a certain value of Watt; to have a lower power, the cartridge modulates voltage to keep the heating block within a predefined temperature range.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2019-06-04T11:46:27.980" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10175" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10173" CreationDate="2019-06-04T12:13:43.107" Score="4" Body="&lt;h1&gt;No.&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your formula is quite off, and it starts with the nomenclature:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Watt&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Watt is the &lt;strong&gt;unit&lt;/strong&gt; of &lt;strong&gt;energy transfer&lt;/strong&gt; which equals &lt;strong&gt;power&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The commonly used term &amp;quot;wattage&amp;quot; does not exist in science. It is a very despised shorthand &lt;em&gt;only&lt;/em&gt; used in terms of &lt;em&gt;electric power&lt;/em&gt; &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$P=UI$&lt;/span&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both power &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$P$&lt;/span&gt; (like work over time) and heat energy transfer &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$\Delta Q$&lt;/span&gt; (which is one variant of power) use the unit &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$\text W=\frac {\text J} {\text s}$&lt;/span&gt;, which is confusing but a necessary distinction. Always remember that &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$P_\text{total}=\sum_{i=1}^nP_i$&lt;/span&gt; - the total power in and out of an object is the sum of all partial powers!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Heat Energy transfer&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Heat energy transfer through an object is defined as the &lt;em&gt;change&lt;/em&gt; of the heat energy &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$Q$&lt;/span&gt; stored inside an object. &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$Q$&lt;/span&gt; is given in &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$\text J$&lt;/span&gt;, so its change &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$\Delta Q$&lt;/span&gt; is given in &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$\text J$&lt;/span&gt; too. To get to the power, the energy change needs to be measured at several spots in time, so we make the derivate over time and get the power in &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$\text W$&lt;/span&gt;. We're looking at &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$\dot Q=\frac {\delta Q} {\delta t}$&lt;/span&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The absolute change of heat energy of an item is defined as &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$\Delta Q(t)=m(t) c \Delta T$&lt;/span&gt;: Increasing the temperature &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$T$&lt;/span&gt; of an object with the mass &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$m$&lt;/span&gt; and specific heat capacity &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$c$&lt;/span&gt; by &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$\delta T$&lt;/span&gt; (between times &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$t_0$&lt;/span&gt; and &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$t$&lt;/span&gt;) results in a change of the stored energy by &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$\Delta Q(t-t_0)$&lt;/span&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, we know &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$Q=c m \Delta T$&lt;/span&gt; and &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$P=\dot Q=\frac \delta {\delta t} c m \Delta T$&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Problem in question&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We know that the drain (&lt;em&gt;loss&lt;/em&gt;) of thermal energy from the system is via three ways:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;melting plastic (phase transition)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;extruding heated plastic&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;convective heat loss to the air&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;black body radiation of the heater block&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We know that the total balance in equilibrium should be &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$P_\text{total}=P_\text{heating}+P_\text{melting}+P_\text{extrusion}+P_\text{convection}+P_\text{bb}=0$&lt;/span&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;heat deposited into the system&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's start at the simplest: we simply know the nominal heating power of the cartridge, it is usually written upon the cartridge itself, usually something in the area of 20 to 40 W. In praxis, it is not exactly that, but the ballpark fits. Otherwise, we'd plug in &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$P_\text{heating}=\epsilon \frac {U^2} {R}$&lt;/span&gt; for our specific resistor, where &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$\epsilon$&lt;/span&gt; is a coefficient between 0 and 1 telling us how good it is in converting electric to heat energy. Remember that since &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$U$&lt;/span&gt; is technically a function of time (it is modulated to control heating behavior), our heating power also is, even though not explicit!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;black body radiation loss &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$P_\text{bb}$&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Black body radiation: &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$P_\text{bb}=A \sigma T^4$&lt;/span&gt; where &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$A$&lt;/span&gt; is the surface area of the object, &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$\sigma$&lt;/span&gt; is a constant called &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stefan%E2%80%93Boltzmann_constant&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Stefan-Boltzmann Constant&lt;/a&gt;. That much thermal energy is just lost due to radiation via photons, even if we don't see it glowing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;convection loss &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$P_\text{convection}$&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The change of heat energy via heat convection is roughly defined as &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$H=\theta A (T-T_f)$&lt;/span&gt; which brings us another coefficient &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$\theta$&lt;/span&gt; about how good the block heats the air and the temperature of the medium (air) around &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$T_f$&lt;/span&gt; - which we can replace as &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$(T-T_f)=\Delta T_a$&lt;/span&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And then we get to the biggest can of worms: the thermal heat transfer for melting the plastic and how much thermal energy is extruded from the system. For one of them, we can estimate some ballpark numbers, for the other, we will get into problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;extrusion loss &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$P_\text{extrusion}$&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The heat energy removed from the system by extruding plastic we can estimate from what we already established about thermal energy back in the Heat Energy transfer paragraph: &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$Q=mc(T_0+\Delta T)$&lt;/span&gt; using the specific heat capacity &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$c [\frac {\text{J}}{\text kg K}] $&lt;/span&gt; of the molten plastic as it is extruded (more about that later). But that's not the loss per time, but the heat energy stored in it in Joules. What factor is changing? In this case, it is the mass &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$m=r\times t$&lt;/span&gt; where &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$r=\frac {\text kg} {\text s}$&lt;/span&gt; is the extrusion rate. So &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$Q_\text{extrusion}=rtc\ \Delta T_\text{extrusion}$&lt;/span&gt; and subsequently &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$P_\text{extrusion}=rc\ \Delta T_\text{extrusion}$&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This leaves us with the big problem: as &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/10174/8884&quot;&gt;0scar&lt;/a&gt; correctly pointed out by directing to the &lt;a href=&quot;https://polymerdatabase.com/polymer%20physics/HeatCapacity.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;PolymerDatabase&lt;/a&gt; the specific heat capacity is &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; a constant and &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; linear but changes depending on the aggregate of the substance. We can make some estimate about it though from how we formulated the total power and adding a few absolutes for convenience:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$$P_\text{total}=P_\text{heating}+P_\text{melting}+P_\text{extrusion}+H_\text{convection}+P_\text{bb}=0$$&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$$P_\text{heating}-H_\text{convection}-P_\text{bb}-P_\text{extrusion}=P_\text{melting}$$&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$$\epsilon \frac {U^2}{R}-\theta A \Delta T_a-A \sigma T^4-rc\ \Delta T_\text{extrusion}=P_\text{melting}$$&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remember, that &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$U$&lt;/span&gt; is a time-dependent factor (because of the control board activating it or disabling it), &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$T_f$&lt;/span&gt; is &lt;em&gt;also&lt;/em&gt; not a steady thing and changes depending on the airflow (though we can just pin it for our thought experiment) and thus &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$T$&lt;/span&gt; itself might change over time as a result. &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$T$&lt;/span&gt; is not equal to &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$\ \Delta T_\text{Extrusion}$&lt;/span&gt; but is the temperature of the heater block system as a whole. &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$\ \Delta T_\text{Extrusion}$&lt;/span&gt;, on the contrary, is the temperature increase &lt;em&gt;of the filament&lt;/em&gt; and not necessarily the same &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$\Delta T_{air}$&lt;/span&gt;, the differential between the heater block and the air. Why this differentiation is necessary becomes apparent if one realizes that the path of the filament might benefit from the heat that is &lt;em&gt;lost&lt;/em&gt; from the heater block along that path, pre-heating the filament.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Phase Transition &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$P_\text{melting}$&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sub&gt;&lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$\propto$&lt;/span&gt; is the proportionality sign and indicates that I might skip factors or constants.&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is that last part? That &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$P_\text{melting}$&lt;/span&gt;? It is the power of the &lt;a href=&quot;https://chem.libretexts.org/Bookshelves/Physical_and_Theoretical_Chemistry_Textbook_Maps/Supplemental_Modules_(Physical_and_Theoretical_Chemistry)/Physical_Properties_of_Matter/States_of_Matter/Phase_Transitions/Fundamentals_of_Phase_Transitions&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Phase Transition&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Enthalpy_of_fusion&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Matter does &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; shift between phases &lt;em&gt;freely&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/a&gt;. There is energy stored in the state itself! So when transitioning from one phase to the other, that energy either has to be added (when going from solid to liquid or liquid to gas) or removed (when going the other way).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &amp;quot;heat of fusion&amp;quot; is a material constant. For this look, I'll call it &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$\phi [\frac {\text{J}} {\text {g}}]$&lt;/span&gt;. We can make an estimation for the power that is put into melting the filament: there's an amount of filament that gets an amount of heat and undergoes the phase transition per time increment &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$$P_\text{melting}\propto \frac \delta {\delta t}\phi m_\text{melting}=\phi*\dot m$$&lt;/span&gt; Now, we have the product of specific &amp;quot;latent heat&amp;quot; and melting mass derived over time... We had earlier the flow rate of material &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$m=r\times t$&lt;/span&gt; and the &amp;quot;latent heat&amp;quot; is a constant. So, we pull out &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$\dot m=r$&lt;/span&gt; again. So in the end we get that the power that is needed to melt our filament is proportional to the flow of the material and the material constant. &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$$P_\text{melting}\propto \phi r$$&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Conclusion tl;dr&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When eliminating the loss via convection and black body radiation and assuming them 0 or neglectable, we assume our heater is packed in perfect isolation - and call them losses. Assuming &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$\epsilon=1$&lt;/span&gt; for a perfect heater, we are left with this equilibrium situation:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$\frac {U^2}{R}-P_\text{losses}=P_\text{melting}+rc\ \Delta T_\text{extrusion}$&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The sum of the power of the phase transition (melting of the filament) and the energy stored in the extruded filament per time &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$(\frac{dQ}{dt})$&lt;/span&gt; is equal to the energy deposited into the hotend over time [minus losses over time]&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="2338" LastEditDate="2021-04-16T22:01:18.343" LastActivityDate="2021-04-16T22:01:18.343" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10176" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10242" CreationDate="2019-06-04T17:28:53.913" Score="3" ViewCount="2781" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a &lt;a href=&quot;https://whambamsystems.com/flexible-build-system&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;WhamBam build system&lt;/a&gt; on order. A magnet attaches (glues down I think) to the Aluminium printing bed (or add a glass sheet? Separate question), then PEX material on flexible steel sheet gets slapped down for the print surface.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lplp5.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;WhamBam build system&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lplp5.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;WhamBam build system&quot; title=&quot;WhamBam build system&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have been printing PLA on a cold PEI sheet from Vertex, using 4 binder clips to hold it in place vs peeling the backing off and sticking it down. The print job wants to keep heating the bed to 60&amp;nbsp;°C, I turn it down, a couple minutes into a job it cranks it back to 60&amp;nbsp;°C and I turn it down again.  A few times I missed the second turn on, and the PEI has been kinda warped now (or maybe it's just the plastic over the sticky backing), and has also peeled off some surface chunks in the middle, so we've been trying to print around the damaged section.  The warping has now made the PEI unusable, so I'm hoping the WhamBam arrives soon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We've been printing for a couple of weeks now (I printed a chess set, largest has 4&amp;nbsp;cm diameter and is 10&amp;nbsp;cm tall, some pieces on blue tape, some on the PEI) and are starting to venture into our own designs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Intended project is box tops &amp;amp; bottoms that are ~90&amp;nbsp;mm x 65&amp;nbsp;mm x different heights with openings.  We tried one on blue tape (a bottom with no openings) and ended up chiseling it off the bed with a steel putty knife (I don't recall if heat was on or not). We tried a top with openings on the PEI, missed that the heat had turned back on, but between the bed not quite level (forgot to re-check it) and the PEI being warped we killed it after the openings were printed around. It was not going to be usable, but we did print enough to be able to confirm the opening spacings (needs work still) so it was not a total loss. Came off the PEI easily (&amp;lt;2&amp;nbsp;mm thick when we stopped), we managed to miss the damaged parts mostly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the question: when the WhamBam arrives, is it better to print PLA at 60&amp;nbsp;°C, or do I keep playing the game of turning it down (and saving the waiting time of it heating up)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16523" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2019-06-05T01:41:50.890" LastActivityDate="2019-06-17T02:29:54.317" Title="Printing PLA on PEX surface - is heated bed needed?" Tags="|heated-bed|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10177" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-06-04T21:04:36.347" Score="7" ViewCount="2694" Body="&lt;p&gt;My printer is exhibiting a problem wherein it's as if the nozzle pulls up on layers.  I don't think it used to do this - it seemed like it manifested after I replaced the broken x-carriage with a printed one, but I don't see how that could have caused the issue.  It's possible something else I did or replaced caused it; not sure.  Allow me to give an example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to print a worm gear, with a tooth size of about 2mm.  The teeth, as they appear in the stl, look kinda like&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt; ____________&#xA;&amp;lt;            &amp;gt;&#xA;  &amp;gt;        &amp;lt;&#xA;&amp;lt;            &amp;gt;&#xA;  &amp;gt;        &amp;lt;&#xA;&amp;lt;____________&amp;gt;&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, when printed, the edges are pulled upwards, looking more like&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;____________&#xA;\          /&#xA;_\        /_&#xA;\          /&#xA;_\        /_&#xA;\          /&#xA; \________/&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I originally noticed the pull-up in the surface finish of flat things - there was a grid of raised bumps on the top layer, I believe corresponding to the empty points between infill walls.  That wasn't an effect that mattered to me, though.  The effect on the worm gear is much more significant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anybody know why my printer is pulling up on layers, or whatever it's doing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10790" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-06-04T21:31:44.087" LastActivityDate="2019-06-05T18:41:11.427" Title="Overhangs lift up" Tags="|print-quality|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10178" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10177" CreationDate="2019-06-04T21:12:06.077" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you print (overhanging/slanting) fine edges &lt;strong&gt;too hot&lt;/strong&gt; with &lt;strong&gt;too little print part cooling&lt;/strong&gt;, they curl up. Please increase the part cooling fan percentage or try printing with a lower hotend temperature. Another possibility is to &lt;strong&gt;print slower&lt;/strong&gt;, this way the filament cools better for the same fan RPM settings (fan spends more time in the hot region).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;The Simplify3d slicer website has a print quality troubleshooting section that describes &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/#curling-or-rough-corners&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;the up-curl of edges&lt;/a&gt;, they also hint to overheating as the source of your problem.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-06-05T18:41:11.427" LastActivityDate="2019-06-05T18:41:11.427" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10179" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10011" CreationDate="2019-06-05T06:45:19.533" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The skirt &lt;em&gt;looks&lt;/em&gt; ok, which tends to rule out the most extreme flow or blockage issues. However, skirt/bottom layer can be over-squashed so not ideal for calibration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I assume this is intended to be a 100% layer rather than infill. It looks like you're achieving about 50% infill, which is a good clue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I guessed (and confirmed in comments) that you are set for 3mm filament, but using 1.75? (I had cura default to this on me not long ago, despite printing perfectly before, and no intentional changes). One easy check would have been to try one of the provided pre-sliced models that came with the printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The effect of configuring for 3mm filament is to reduce flow by a factor of 3 (diameter squared), so even a 50% over extrusion still leaves you with less than half the plastic volume required.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After fixing this, you will need to raise the Z-home position slightly to enable the first layer to extrude properly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4927" LastEditorUserId="4927" LastEditDate="2019-06-05T08:47:40.690" LastActivityDate="2019-06-05T08:47:40.690" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10180" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-06-05T15:03:10.493" Score="1" ViewCount="115" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to begin designing and 3D printing propellers for both a toy airplane and drone that I own. I want to do this for experimental purposes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have never used a 3D printer nor have I used any 3D printing design software. So as a beginner to both of these things, I would like to know what would be the best type of 3D printer to use to create propellers for toy aircraft and I would like to know what is currently regarded as the easiest-to-use 3D design software for creating objects such as airfoils.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, at this time, the most I want to pay for a 3D printer is $500.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user16674" LastActivityDate="2019-06-05T15:46:04.850" Title="3D printer and design software for creating propellers for a toy airplane/drone" Tags="|3d-models|3d-design|software|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ClosedDate="2019-06-07T11:21:06.433" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10182" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10187" CreationDate="2019-06-05T15:32:24.787" Score="2" ViewCount="1541" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been looking in the Marlin firmware for about an hour or two now to find what pins I should use for UART for my tmc2208 drivers and I have come up with nothing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know what they are or how to assign them? BTW, I am using the regular version of the RUMBA board not the RUMBA+ version.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For somereason i didn't put that i want to control my stepper motor drivers through uart they are tmc2208&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16675" LastEditorUserId="16675" LastEditDate="2019-06-07T02:52:03.123" LastActivityDate="2019-06-07T02:52:03.123" Title="What pins do I use for UART control on a RUMBA board for tmc2208?" Tags="|marlin|troubleshooting|electronics|stepper-driver|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10183" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10180" CreationDate="2019-06-05T15:46:04.850" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;First, welcome to 3D Printing SE.  This is a great place to ask questions and get answers from people who have walked the same path.  I see from your profile that you are not a stranger to StackExchange and the available sites.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This question may be too broad for this SE Group, as it is asking for opinions rather than facts.  We try not to ask questions about &quot;what is the best printer&quot;, or &quot;what software is the best&quot;.  We avoid it both because it will change frequently, and because the answer needs to be gauged in your context, not the answerer's. We have some tools and community guidelines that suggest how to formulate the best questions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Never-the-less, it is very hard when starting to even know how to make the first step, so with the indulgence of the group and your patience, I will make a suggestion or two.  These come from my experience and your's is surely different.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To try out 3D printers you may have resources the don't require buying one yourself.  It doesn't seem that 3D printing is the end goal for you.  You want to use 3D printing as a way to manufacture several experiments.  To access a 3D printer, it could be productive to check for local makerspaces, public libraries, or high schools with 3D printing capability.  You may find a friend you 3D prints who would be happy to run some objects for you.  You might even find it cost-effective to send designs to a service bureau such as &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.3dhubs.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;3D Hubs&lt;/a&gt;.  &lt;strong&gt;Note:&lt;/strong&gt; I have no relationship with the company, although I did use their services once.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With the printing side temporarily in abeyance, you can focus attention on the design side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are familiar with programming, you might be able to use either OpenSCAD or SolidPython as a design tool.  If you want something graphical, it might be worth trying &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.onshape.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;OnShape&lt;/a&gt;.  &lt;strong&gt;NOTE:&lt;/strong&gt; I know at least one of the founders of OnShape, but have no investment nor role in the company.  There are many design tools available.  For designing technical parts, I think you want tools more focused on technical than aesthetic content.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would avoid purchasing a printer unless you want 3D printing and 3D printers to be part of your project.  People have mixed stories with many brands of printer, and lower-cost printers often become projects in themselves.  They can be satisfying, rewarding, and learning-driven projects, but can distract you from your prime intention for a long time.  In my case, I wanted to print boxes for projects, and prototypes for larger wood carvings.  I designed a printer, acquired materials, built it, and spent 3 years playing with it.  Along the way, I made some useful prints.  Eventually I was tired of not having a reliable 3D printer, and I wanted to reliably make things.  I needed a printing appliance.  So I bought a mid-range printer (which works very well for me), and I don't mess with it (much).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, a broad answer in response to a broad question.  Welcome to 3D printing, the hobby and the StackExchange site.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2082" LastActivityDate="2019-06-05T15:46:04.850" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10184" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10171" CreationDate="2019-06-05T18:35:05.763" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;To answer your first question&lt;/strong&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your calculations are not wrong, they are correct for a &lt;strong&gt;normal layer&lt;/strong&gt; (uncorrected) layer. These calculations should get you very near the solution. The problem is that there are &lt;strong&gt;default modifiers at play&lt;/strong&gt; that modify the extrusion process which become apparent when you change them or look at the hoover hint in the advanced printer settings section. E.g. see the image below of the &quot;Print Settings&quot; graphical user interface; specifically look at the hoovering hint:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eUGy7.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eUGy7.png&quot; alt=&quot;Slic3r Print Settings GUI&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The hoovering hint tells you that there is a 200&amp;nbsp;% modifier at play. &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;What! a default modifier without me knowing?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; Well...., if we had looked at the &#xA;Slic3r Manual (&lt;a href=&quot;https://manual.slic3r.org/first-print/first-layer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;The Important First Layer&lt;/a&gt;) a little better, we read that:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Fatter extrusion width.&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;br&gt;The more material touching the bed, the better&#xA;  the object will adhere to it, and this can be achieved by increasing&#xA;  the extrusion width of the first layer, either by a percentage or a&#xA;  fixed amount. Any spaces between the extrusions are adjusted&#xA;  accordingly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A value of approximately 200&amp;nbsp;% is usually recommended, but note that&#xA;  the value is calculated from the layer height and so the value should&#xA;  only be set if the layer height is the highest possible. For example,&#xA;  if the layer height is 0.1&amp;nbsp;mm, and the extrusion width is set to 200&amp;nbsp;%,&#xA;  then the actual extruded width will only be 0.2&amp;nbsp;mm, which is smaller&#xA;  than the nozzle. This would cause poor flow and lead to a failed&#xA;  print. It is therefore highly recommended to combine the high first&#xA;  layer height technique recommended above with this one. Setting the&#xA;  first layer height to 0.35&amp;nbsp;mm and the first extrusion width to 200&amp;nbsp;%&#xA;  would result in a nice fat extrusion 0.65&amp;nbsp;mm wide.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tada! There we have the modifier from the screenshot; 200&amp;nbsp;% (this is expressed as a percentage over the layer height, and causes that an additional filament scale factor bigger than 1 is at play; the &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$x$&lt;/span&gt; in your equations).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;To answer the second question&lt;/strong&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That should be rather straight forward, you know how long the path is and at which speed the head is moving (either at constant speed, decelerating or accelerating) and how much of filament you need to deposit, at the end point all filament needs to be deposited so you can calculate how fast the extrusion needs to be to accomplish that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;If you calculate back from a volume of 8.214 mm&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; and solve for unknown &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$w$&lt;/span&gt; you see that this yields &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$ w = 0.65\ mm $&lt;/span&gt;, and that is exactly what is stated as first layer width in your Slic3r settings; I quote:&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;first_layer_extrusion_width = 0.65&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;P.S. When you look into the source code of &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/slic3r/Slic3r&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Slic3r&lt;/a&gt;, if you dig deep, you find that extrusion width is bound by minimum and maximum values, it could well be that that is causing the value to differ from 0.70 mm (200 % of 0.35).&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-06-06T11:21:11.010" LastActivityDate="2019-06-06T11:21:11.010" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10185" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10176" CreationDate="2019-06-05T18:39:26.157" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I print PLA on a PEI bed at 60°C.  I have also printed PLA on an aluminum bed at 60°C with Elmer's Glue Stick for bonding, which worked better for me than PLA.  I recently switched to Aqua Net Hairspray on the aluminum bed at 60°C, which also worked well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have found no reason to avoid bed heating with PLA.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the object is stuck too tightly on the PEI bed, you could try adding hairspray.  It acts as a glue, but also as a release agent, and, being soluble in water, you can help release the object with a few water drops.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2082" LastActivityDate="2019-06-05T18:39:26.157" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10186" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4469" CreationDate="2019-06-05T20:03:31.193" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I build an 18.5&amp;quot; diameter delta printer.  The bed was 3/8&amp;quot; thick 6061 aluminum.  It is plenty stiff, but it takes an hour to heat to 100°C.  When I rebuild it, I'll probably drop down to 1/4&amp;quot; and increase the heater from about 250 Watts to 750 Watts.  That should heat the bed in 15 minutes, which is still a long time.  Waiting for the bed to heat for ABS is one of the greatest frustrations with that machine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For your machine, how much the 1/8&amp;quot; plate bends will depend a great deal on which aluminum alloy and temper you use.  From &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.onlinemetals.com/en/buy/aluminum-sheet?q=%3Aprice-asc%3AThickness%3A0.125%2522%3AAlloy%3A7075%3ATemper%3AT6%3AMaterial%3AAluminum%3AAlloy%3A6061&amp;amp;checkbox=on#&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;OnlineMetals.com&lt;/a&gt;, 6061-T6 and 7075-T6 are available.  7075 is slightly stiffer, but both should be good enough.  6061 is half the price.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2082" LastEditorUserId="2082" LastEditDate="2021-03-29T18:32:31.233" LastActivityDate="2021-03-29T18:32:31.233" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10187" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10182" CreationDate="2019-06-05T20:16:35.337" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/mediawiki/images/2/24/RRD-RUMBA_SCHEMATICS.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;RUMBA schematic&quot;&gt;RUMBA schematic&lt;/a&gt; is available on the &lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/wiki/RUMBA&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;RUMBA wiki&lt;/a&gt;.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/mediawiki/images/2/24/RRD-RUMBA_SCHEMATICS.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;RUMBA schematic&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://reprap.org/mediawiki/images/2/24/RRD-RUMBA_SCHEMATICS.png&quot; alt=&quot;RUMBA schematic&quot; title=&quot;RUMBA schematic&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the schematic, I see that UART3 (with +5V logic levels, not RS232) is presented on the EXP3 connector.  I don't know if Marlin firmware can be controlled through a UART other than UART0, which is converted to USB through an FDDI chip.  The Arduino bootloader is not expecting another UART, so you may still need to program it through the USB port (and UART0).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2082" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2019-06-06T07:34:27.637" LastActivityDate="2019-06-06T07:34:27.637" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10188" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10013" CreationDate="2019-06-06T04:01:45.233" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was making following mistakes &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;a) X-axis belt needed a tightening&#xA;( I calibrated all X,Y,Z and they were perfect)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;b) There was under extrusion .&#xA;    ( I had to increase number of steps per mm for extruder motor and store the setting) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;XYZ calibration cube was really helpful in debugging the problems .&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16553" LastActivityDate="2019-06-06T04:01:45.233" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10189" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-06-06T09:59:17.427" Score="4" ViewCount="910" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is it okay to directly connect together the grounds of the logic supply and the motor supply when using a Pololu style stepper driver?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yijCn.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;A4988 connection schematic&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yijCn.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;A4988 connection schematic&quot; title=&quot;A4988 connection schematic&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If yes/no, why so?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16467" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2019-06-13T16:06:26.427" LastActivityDate="2019-06-17T21:30:10.327" Title="Pololu - connect motor supply ground and logic supply ground" Tags="|stepper|stepper-driver|grounding|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10190" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-06-06T11:38:54.677" Score="3" ViewCount="787" Body="&lt;p&gt;How do &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.watterott.com/en/SilentStepStick-Protector&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;StepStick Protectors&lt;/a&gt; work and what exactly do they protect?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I use them with Pololu style stepper drivers, can I unplug for example the motor while the driver is powered without damaging the driver?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16467" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2019-06-10T18:47:28.760" LastActivityDate="2019-06-10T18:47:28.760" Title="StepStick Protectors" Tags="|stepper-driver|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10191" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-06-06T14:42:44.300" Score="2" ViewCount="206" Body="&lt;p&gt;My printer has been doing weird things lately.  It used to print fine, but now it's like the Y or X axis after a certain percentage time.&#xA;ie on a 24 hour print: it got off at 5 hours&#xA;on a 42 print it got off at 16%&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thoughts?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16624" LastActivityDate="2019-06-07T09:26:33.013" Title="Ender 3 Random Axis Shift" Tags="|creality-ender-3|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10192" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10191" CreationDate="2019-06-06T15:26:23.400" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The usual suspects are overheating stepper motor drivers and over-tight belts. It can also be caused by belts coming loose in their mounts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3953" LastActivityDate="2019-06-06T15:26:23.400" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10193" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8022" CreationDate="2019-06-06T15:35:59.893" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Same problem with my Ender 3, although not as severe as the OP, its about 0.5&amp;nbsp;mm over the first 1&amp;nbsp;mm that is lost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After checking my motor as suggested, it was solid. However as with the OP, one of my adjustable wheels was loose on the Z axis, and could be turned by hand. Tightening the eccentric wheels on both sides to remove any slop has resolved the issue. Multiple test cubes have come out perfectly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16684" LastEditorUserId="16684" LastEditDate="2019-06-07T11:21:42.493" LastActivityDate="2019-06-07T11:21:42.493" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10194" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6315" CreationDate="2019-06-06T17:16:28.740" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Zero retraction is just a special (worst) case of under-retraction. You'll pretty much always lose material to oozing if you don't retract before travel. At best this ends up hidden inside the print (but can still affect weight and weight balance); usually it'll also harm the surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ensure that retraction is set to &lt;em&gt;always&lt;/em&gt; happen (not skipping short travel), and at least 5-6 mm for bowden extruders. Direct extruders can get away with less but I'm not sure exactly how much less. Less-rigid materials need more retraction to make up for compression of the filament between the extruder gear and the nozzle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastEditorUserId="11157" LastEditDate="2019-06-07T12:22:17.350" LastActivityDate="2019-06-07T12:22:17.350" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10195" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10190" CreationDate="2019-06-06T20:17:42.393" Score="5" Body="&lt;h2&gt;To Protect, or Not to Protect&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the web site you reference:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The SilentStepStick Protector is an add-on module for StepStick and&#xA;  Pololu A4988 compatible stepper motor drivers. The board provides&#xA;  flyback diodes (freewheeling diodes) for the motor outputs, so that&#xA;  they are also protected against induction voltages in the unpowered&#xA;  state of the driver.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The v2 protector also contains a diode from the logic voltage (anode)&#xA;  to the motor voltage (cathode), so that the power supply order of all&#xA;  SilentStepSticks is always guaranteed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since I assume you've read this, please indulge some explanation of the electrical engineering.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Motors&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Every motor has a part called the &quot;rotor&quot; that rotates, and a part called the &quot;stator&quot; that is stationary.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the stepper motors usually used in 3D printers, the rotor is a permanent magnet and the stator consists of coils of wire.  In normal operation, the current flowing through the coils creates a magnetic field.  The rotor aligns itself with the field of the stator.  To move, the stator field is shifted by changing the current in the coils, and the magnetic force causes the rotor to rotate to align the fields.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Generated Voltages&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As Faraday discovered, a changing magnetic field induces a voltage in a wire.  There are two ways that the magnetic field changes.  The first is that the current changes or stops.  That introduces little high voltage blips into the motor coils.  The motor drivers are well prepared to handle this blips.  The second is when the rotor is forced to turn by an outside force, such as sliding the bed.  As these voltages are not related to action the motor driver is causing, some of the techniques used to handle the voltage spikes may not be as robust.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The protection boards you point to consist of diodes to limit the magnitude of the voltages that the coil can produce.  This is redundant with the diodes and protections built into the driver chips, but it may offer stronger protection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Benefits?&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this responder's opinion, you are unlikely to see a great benefit from these boards, but perhaps there are vulnerabilities I am unaware of.  You are also unlikely to do any harm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You asked specifically if, with the protectors installed, you could unplug the motor while it is passing current.  The protectors may help with that, or they may not.  Interrupt the connection creates a spark, and arcing through the air, that makes many high-frequency components which may not (or may) be effectively clamped by the diodes.  For best results, you could add the protectors, and also avoid interrupting the motor current while powered.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2082" LastActivityDate="2019-06-06T20:17:42.393" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10196" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10191" CreationDate="2019-06-07T09:26:33.013" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've had similar problems printing overnight using a computer and suspected network activity causing the problem.  Energy savings settings can also cause it.  I print overnight using an SD card to print the gcode file to solve the problem.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15075" LastActivityDate="2019-06-07T09:26:33.013" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10197" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9935" CreationDate="2019-06-07T10:29:14.287" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Insulation of the nozzle is crucial. I removed it and put a silicon sock on a CR-10. I constantly got heat creeps even at 10C lower temp. Then I removed the sock and printed a 12 hour part with significant quality loss. It did finish the job. With silicon it stopped after 5-6 hours. I suppose that with the sock the upper part of the heat block which is uninsulated leaves more energy go up than without a silicon sock. Then I put cotton all around the heat block. I even put the cotton at the side of the thermistor. And kapton tape. The results are really really perfect. Always talking for the CR-10 stock nozzle and fans. If you don't have insulation you need better fans. All the heat goes up to the heatbreak and softens the fillament. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16693" LastActivityDate="2019-06-07T10:29:14.287" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10198" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-06-07T11:51:05.407" Score="1" ViewCount="295" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I tried to print a model with a 2&amp;nbsp;mm thickness main area, and a couple 4&amp;nbsp;mm parts that stick out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Instead the 4&amp;nbsp;mm is 3.05&amp;nbsp;mm and the 2&amp;nbsp;mm is 1.07&amp;nbsp;mm (0.042 inches measured with a caliper).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only physical thing I changed was the nozzle from a 0.4&amp;nbsp;mm to 0.2&amp;nbsp;mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I changed to Ultimaker Cura 4.1 (from 4.0) and entered a 0.2&amp;nbsp;mm nozzle size in the settings. Just as before with the 0.4&amp;nbsp;mm nozzle, I used a 0.1&amp;nbsp;mm layer height.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The X and Y dimensions are good, and the screw holes line up perfectly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I auto homed and used the bed leveling mechanism built in one many times.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any suggestions why the height of the printed part is too small?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't have the model with me, but this is an example (without the holes):&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/D98M6.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/D98M6.png&quot; alt=&quot;3d model pic&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am manually using the GUI of Ultimaker Cura, not the slicer engine embedded in another program or from command line.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do I need to increase the filament temperature up from 200 to have the filament liquid enough to flow through the smaller tip?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is representation of it.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HYtdc.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HYtdc.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The old models are rigid, and the new ones bend because it is so thin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XEmCg.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XEmCg.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;update 6-10-19&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I re-installed 4.0 to no avail.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think the problem might be related to the filament feeder because otherwise there should be filament everywhere.  I am going to try different filament temperatures to see if that changes anything.  Trying 205. Unless the feeder motor is damaged.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16395" LastEditorUserId="16395" LastEditDate="2019-06-10T12:38:53.823" LastActivityDate="2019-06-10T12:38:53.823" Title="Creality CR10 S5; the Z dimension is wrong after switch from 0.4 to 0.2 mm nozzle" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|nozzle|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="12" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10200" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10279" CreationDate="2019-06-07T17:01:41.877" Score="3" ViewCount="230" Body="&lt;p&gt;What's the legal status of Chinese 3D printer part clones such as Hiwin linear rail clones or E3D hotends?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While it's clear that Chinese clones are certainly sub-par in quality, no question, what I wonder is whether they violate any laws (they don't use brand names or claim to be the genuine product). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In particular, I’m interested whether it is in any way illegal to order such parts in the U.S. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given that there's hardly any 3D printer that doesn't contain at least one Chinese part, I really think this is on topic. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also don't seek legal advice but any information other 3D printer users on here have.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16467" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2019-06-16T07:57:14.280" LastActivityDate="2019-06-29T07:14:42.457" Title="3D printer part clones from china - legality" Tags="|legal|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10201" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10189" CreationDate="2019-06-07T20:59:14.983" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;That depends on how much noise you have on your motor power supply ground.  You definitely want the 100&amp;nbsp;µF capacitor to have a good high frequency response.  Motors turning on and off can be noisy, and that noise can cause false clock signals in your logic circuitry if you tie the grounds together.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15075" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2019-06-13T16:05:11.197" LastActivityDate="2019-06-13T16:05:11.197" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10202" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-06-07T22:16:07.837" Score="-1" ViewCount="168" Body="&lt;p&gt;What are some relatively simple improvements to FDM 3D printers that cannot be sold however because they are under patent?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know a heated build chamber is one such thing: According to the RepRap Wiki &lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/wiki/Heated_Build_Chamber&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Heated_Build_Chamber&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The disclosure on how to fabricate a heated build chamber might also be illegal as it is protected by patent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I wonder if there are similar &quot;simple&quot; FDM printer upgrades for which it currently would be forbidden to sell (or even promote?) parts due to patent infringement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is exactly the question I am interested in. This is not about a specific printer. A heated build chamber is a simple upgrade that would benefit pretty much any FDM printer. I am interested in other relatively simple upgrades which you won't find on most commercial 3D printers despite their simplicity for the reason that the feature is patented.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What other simple improvements are there, that are protected by patents?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16467" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2019-06-10T16:10:13.727" LastActivityDate="2023-07-09T23:18:55.953" Title="Low hanging fruit improvements to FDM printers that are patented" Tags="|legal|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10203" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10189" CreationDate="2019-06-08T06:50:54.677" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Is it okay to directly connect together the grounds of the logic supply and the motor supply when using a pololu style stepper driver?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most stepper drivers don't have separate ground pins for the logic and motor supplies. The two ground pins on the A4988 board you've shown are electrically connected on the board. The question is moot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastActivityDate="2019-06-08T06:50:54.677" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10205" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10261" CreationDate="2019-06-08T17:20:02.833" Score="4" ViewCount="7792" Body="&lt;p&gt;Given a 3D boolean array representing voxels, how can it be converted to a 3D-printer-ready file?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The end-goal I would like to achieve is to print the 3D shape that the numpy array represents (&lt;code&gt;True&lt;/code&gt; coding for &lt;em&gt;fill this voxel&lt;/em&gt;, &lt;code&gt;False&lt;/code&gt; for &lt;em&gt;leave it empty&lt;/em&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, the array&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;[&#xA;    [&#xA;        [T, T, T],&#xA;        [T, F, T],&#xA;        [T, T, T]&#xA;    ],&#xA;    [&#xA;        [T, F, T],&#xA;        [F, F, F],&#xA;        [T, F, T]&#xA;    ],&#xA;    [&#xA;        [T, T, T],&#xA;        [T, F, T],&#xA;        [T, T, T]&#xA;    ]&#xA;]&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;would encode a &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Void_Cube&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;level-1 Menger sponge&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16705" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2021-06-05T12:59:43.040" LastActivityDate="2021-06-05T12:59:43.040" Title="Convert a 3D NumPy array of voxels to an STL file" Tags="|stl|python|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10206" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-06-08T18:04:12.853" Score="2" ViewCount="276" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm working on a Laser cutter. I’m using the RAMPS 1.4 and Marlin software. To make the Marlin software work with a laser I’m inspired by this blog from dreammakercnc: &lt;a href=&quot;http://dreammakercnc.blogspot.com/2015/06/marlin-firmware-modification-for-laser.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Marlin Firmware modification for Laser Control&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My plan is to use Inkscape to design and create the G-code. With Pronterface I will sent it to the laser cutter. My plan is to get the Marlin software to work like in this video: &lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/VNqytJqoE1w?start=0&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After that I will order the laser cutting machine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For now I have the following issue: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm using stepper motors. They are working when I connect to Pronterface. I can control the motors when I'm using Pronterface. But when I load a G-code file, that I designed with Inkscape, the program seems to freeze. Nothing happens. It's saying: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;locking interface. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I unlock it and sent a manual G-code it's not working. The program thinks its working at that moment. The picture that I designed is visualized in the G-code viewer of Pronterface.    &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I haven't connected any extruders, fan or bed to the RAMPS 1.4. I have connected one thermistor and one endstop. Both are working well. When I upload the Marlin software there are no problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My thoughts:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is my problem that the program is waiting for the extruder to get warm? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is there something wrong with the G-code I’am sending to the RAMPS board?  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Below I will put the info from Pronterface when I connect, the G-code that I'm using and the &lt;code&gt;configuration.h&lt;/code&gt; file from the Marlin software.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Pronterface connecting &#xA;&#xA;Connecting...&#xA;start&#xA;Printer is now online.&#xA;echo: External Reset&#xA;Marlin 1.0.2+&#xA;echo: Last Updated: Jun  6 2019 22:04:53 | Author: (Bart,24-1-2019)&#xA;Compiled: Jun  6 2019&#xA;echo: Free Memory: 5248  PlannerBufferBytes: 1360&#xA;echo:Hardcoded Default Settings Loaded&#xA;echo:Steps per unit:&#xA;echo:  M92 X78.74 Y78.74 Z533.33 E836.00&#xA;echo:Maximum feedrates (mm/s):&#xA;echo:  M203 X500.00 Y500.00 Z5.00 E25.00&#xA;echo:Maximum Acceleration (mm/s2):&#xA;echo:  M201 X9000 Y9000 Z100 E10000&#xA;echo:Acceleration: S=acceleration, T=retract acceleration&#xA;echo:  M204 S3000.00 T3000.00&#xA;echo:Advanced variables: S=Min feedrate (mm/s), T=Min travel feedrate (mm/s), B=minimum segment time (ms), X=maximum XY jerk (mm/s),  Z=maximum Z jerk (mm/s),  E=maximum E jerk (mm/s)&#xA;echo:  M205 S0.00 T0.00 B20000 X20.00 Z0.40 E5.00&#xA;echo:Home offset (mm):&#xA;echo:  M206 X0.00 Y0.00 Z0.00&#xA;echo:PID settings:&#xA;echo:   M301 P22.20 I1.08 D114.00&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;G-code &#xA;&#xA;Loading file: D:\output_0001.gcode&#xA;Loaded D:\output_0001.gcode, 27 lines&#xA;0.00mm of filament used in this print&#xA;The print goes:&#xA;- from 0.00 mm to 36.62 mm in X and is 36.62 mm wide&#xA;- from 0.00 mm to 49.24 mm in Y and is 49.24 mm deep&#xA;- from 0.00 mm to 0.00 mm in Z and is 0.00 mm high&#xA;Estimated duration: 0 layers, 0:03:09&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16706" LastEditorUserId="4808" LastEditDate="2020-05-08T20:55:14.440" LastActivityDate="2020-05-09T10:41:48.740" Title="Display locks when executing G-code for laser cutting using Marlin on RAMPS board" Tags="|marlin|ramps-1.4|pronterface|laser|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10207" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-06-08T18:27:58.657" Score="3" ViewCount="2043" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I print with a 0.4&amp;nbsp; mm nozzle I have no problem with stringing at all but because I need a more detailed print I must use a 0.25&amp;nbsp;mm nozzle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I use Ultimaker Cura and an Anycubic i3 Mega.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What i tried so far:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Enable/Disable Z hop&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tried different retraction distance and speed.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tried with lower temperature&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Different wall thickness&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have any suggestion please let me know.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16707" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-06-09T05:16:05.770" LastActivityDate="2019-06-09T12:00:25.953" Title="How to prevent stringing with 0.25 mm nozzle?" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|anycubic-i3-mega|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10208" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-06-08T18:37:34.153" Score="6" ViewCount="3106" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Marlin driven Prusa i3 clone, by accident I cut through both thermistor wires for the hotend while it was powered on. The Arduino reset and the hotend thermistor no longer work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since there is a spare thermistor input on the RAMPS board I was wondering if I can change the input pin assigned to the hotend thermistor in the software? I've looked around (the code and the internet) and so far have only found out how to assign the thermistor type for the spare input, not how to tell Marlin to make &lt;code&gt;temp_sensor_2&lt;/code&gt; be the input used for the hotend?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If anyone could help me figure out how to change the hotend thermistor input number I would be greatly appreciative!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16708" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2019-06-09T15:46:37.243" LastActivityDate="2023-01-26T19:52:40.950" Title="Change hotend thermistor input in Marlin" Tags="|prusa-i3|marlin|hotend|thermistor|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10209" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10821" CreationDate="2019-06-08T18:59:01.807" Score="4" ViewCount="742" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Monoprice Maker Select V2.1 (rebadged Wanhao Di3) with a microswiss all metal hot-end and machined lever and extruder plate. It had been printing very consistently for months with this set up - through 5 or 6 kg of filament - until a couple of weeks ago when it has started to under-extrude and then stop partway into a print, after about 30-40 minutes. It seems to clog and grind the filament, skipping steps. I first assumed this was heat-creep, and so disassembled the extruder, cleaned the heatsink and applied new thermal paste before reassembling, but to no luck. I also tried new fans on the cold-end but this didn't help either.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other things I have tried:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;various models - point at which the extruding stops seems based on length of time printing, not z position, suggesting to me that it is not an wires/electronics issue or an issue with the file.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;various layer heights&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;various temperatures&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;dust filter&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;various filaments (changing reels of similar filament, different colours and brands, although all PLA)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;cleaned, and subsequently replaced extruder gear to rule out wear to that&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;inserted washer under lever spring to add tension&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;clearing the nozzle (cleaning filament, atomic pulls and drill-bit)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've now run out of ideas of what could be causing the issue and what to try. What other issues could cause the above symptoms or, if it is heat-creep, how else could I solve the issue?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12718" LastActivityDate="2019-08-19T10:50:33.727" Title="Wanhao i3 stops printing after about 40 minutes" Tags="|wanhao|underextrusion|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10210" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8605" CreationDate="2019-06-08T20:02:38.760" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;This problem seems to have mostly gone away - at least any remaining error is within a margin explainable by my cheap/low-quality digital caliper. Since asking the question, I've made a lot of changes that could contribute, but the biggest factor was probably the loose X-axis timing belt and &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/10137/11157&quot;&gt;misaligned X-axis&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Slicer options may also have been involved. For example, Cura's Ender 3 profile attempts to set limits on acceleration speeds, but does so in a way that requires the GUI to compute derived accelerations; if you're using the command line CuraEngine (which I am), all the derived settings are left at the very high defaults.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2019-06-08T20:02:38.760" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10211" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8206" CreationDate="2019-06-08T20:10:40.563" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cura does correctly account for line extrusion widths wheen positioning the lines, and attempting to fix this with negative &lt;code&gt;xy_offset&lt;/code&gt; was a mistake that led to lots of problems: in some cases, it completely eliminated tiny components of the model and left gaps in layers. At some point after asking this question, I did a new test with 8mm peg and hole, and I was actually able to force the 8mm peg into the hole (but not remove it) using tools, without cracking the parts, so I think past tiny sizes where dimensional accuracy is very difficult to achieve, everything is just about right.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2019-06-08T20:10:40.563" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10212" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10209" CreationDate="2019-06-08T20:44:17.330" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Have you checked your computers power saving settings, the USB port setting in particular, to see if your computer is turning off the USB port, the hard drive, or some other hardware vital to printing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15075" LastActivityDate="2019-06-08T20:44:17.330" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10213" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10208" CreationDate="2019-06-08T21:40:49.183" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;In &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/blob/bugfix-1.1.x/Marlin/pins_RAMPS.h&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;pins_RAMPS.h&lt;/a&gt; you find which pins are used for which thermistor:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&#xA;//&#xA;// Temperature Sensors&#xA;//&#xA;#define TEMP_0_PIN         13   // Analog Input&#xA;#define TEMP_1_PIN         15   // Analog Input&#xA;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To use the other thermistor, you would need to swap the numbers:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&#xA;//&#xA;// Temperature Sensors&#xA;//&#xA;#define TEMP_0_PIN         15   // Analog Input&#xA;#define TEMP_1_PIN         13   // Analog Input&#xA;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2019-06-08T21:40:49.183" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10214" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10215" CreationDate="2019-06-09T00:20:51.997" Score="4" ViewCount="844" Body="&lt;p&gt;I noticed foot arches are already digitized, but custom arch supports are usually expensive.  PLA and ABS aren't the best material for printing arch supports, especially if they replace the shoe's innersole. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a more flexible material for 3D printing that could be used for making custom orthotics?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15075" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2019-06-13T16:03:14.010" LastActivityDate="2020-02-20T07:14:57.307" Title="Material for printing orthotics" Tags="|3d-design|print-material|material|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10215" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10214" CreationDate="2019-06-09T04:14:47.203" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The standard choice for this would be TPU, &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thermoplastic_polyurethane&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;thermoplastic polyurethane&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;TPU is a common filament material for use in fused filament fabrication 3D printing due to the fact that it is an elastic thermoplastic which makes it ideal for printing objects that need to be flexible and elastic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Properties of commercially available TPU include:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;high abrasion resistance&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;low-temperature performance&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;high shear strength&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;high elasticity&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;transparency&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;oil and grease resistance&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition to TPU, there are plasticizer-modified PLA filaments with similar flexibility, but not necessarily with the other nice properties like abrasion resistance. I've printed with one from 3D Solutech and had good results, &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/q/8512/11157&quot;&gt;after figuring out what to do about stringing&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, it's possible to achieve a decent degree of flexibility merely with printed geometry, rather than special materials. It's possible that PETG with an appropriate geometry could work for your application.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:29:41.667" LastActivityDate="2019-06-09T04:14:47.203" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10216" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10207" CreationDate="2019-06-09T05:05:13.543" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;First, you should change the &lt;strong&gt;nozzle diameter&lt;/strong&gt; setting, not just the line width setting, in Cura. Both are involved in determining extrusion. Line width can be less than or greater than nozzle size, but setting it much larger or smaller is not going to work well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suspect your main problem, though, is print speed. The area of the 0.25 mm nozzle orifice is only 39% of the area of an 0.4 mm nozzle orifice, bounding the material extrusion rate &lt;strong&gt;at best&lt;/strong&gt; at 39% of what you could get with the larger nozzle (in practice it will be even lower due to complex fluid dynamics, probably much lower), but at the same linear print speed with narrower lines, you'll be extruding (or trying to extrude) 62.5% as much material per unit time. Now, if that much material can't actually make it out of the nozzle, pressure builds up between the extruder gear and the nozzle, and stringing is the result.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, try lowering the print speed. &lt;strong&gt;A lot&lt;/strong&gt; at first. If that solves the problem, gradually increase it until you find the limit. Increasing retraction and temperature may help you push it a little further. See my question and self-answer on stringing with flexible filaments, which might give you some ideas on other things to try:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/q/8512/11157&quot;&gt;Avoiding stringing with flexible filament&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2019-06-09T05:05:13.543" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10217" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10214" CreationDate="2019-06-09T05:09:11.677" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;An alternative is to use PLA, ABS or PETG to print a positive product to make a mold, or print a negative mold and create a more flexible foot arch support from something more flexible than TPU, e.g. silicone rubber.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2019-06-09T05:09:11.677" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10218" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10207" CreationDate="2019-06-09T12:00:25.953" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;What worked well for me in avoiding stringing is to increase the travel move speeds significantly, disable Z-hop and to decrease printing temperature&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16467" LastActivityDate="2019-06-09T12:00:25.953" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10219" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-06-10T01:10:17.410" Score="2" ViewCount="166" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have given up on getting the RUMBA board to work. I tried to add a P.I.N.D.A. (or PINDA) probe, but that didn’t work. I tried to add a BLTouch sensor, but that didn’t work either. Now the RUMBA board is not communicating with my PC. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I have moved on to using a Mini-Rambo but the one drawback is that it only has one extruder capability. I would like to know if there is any way to add an extruder to the Mini-Rambo. Whether it be a separate board or soldering or something. I am open to anything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16716" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2019-06-10T20:09:51.140" LastActivityDate="2019-06-10T20:09:51.140" Title="How to add extruder to RAMBo Mini" Tags="|extruder|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10220" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10202" CreationDate="2019-06-10T15:14:48.277" Score="2" Body="&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Porosity control&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Seam hiding&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Dissolvable supports&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Porosity Control&lt;/strong&gt; - The ability of a 3d printer to produce a variable infill rate (e.g. 20%) is covered by a Stratasys utility patent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Seam Hiding&lt;/strong&gt; - The ability of a 3d printer to start printing from a different point on the perimeter such that no seam appears on the printed part, is covered by a Stratasys utility patent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Dissolvable supports&lt;/strong&gt; - The ability of a 3d printer to print with 2 (or more) filaments such that one of the filaments, acting as support material (or scaffolding), can be removed by sustained immersion in water, is covered by a Stratasys utility patent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.afinia.com/wp-content/uploads/Afinia-Response-Stratasys-Complaint.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Defendant Microboards Technology, LLC d/b/a Afinia's answer to Plaintiff's complaint for patent infringement; Affirmative Defenses; Counterclaims; and Demand for Jury Trial&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I could not find a URL with the original Stratasys case, but I saved a copy back when it first came out. The document seems to be behind paywalls now. You can reference it as :&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://portal.unifiedpatents.com/litigation/Minnesota%20District%20Court/case/0%3A13-cv-03228&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;CASE 0:13-cv-03228-DWF-JJG&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;UNITED STATES DISTRICT COURT DISTRICT OF MINNESOTA&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12857" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2023-07-09T23:18:55.953" LastActivityDate="2023-07-09T23:18:55.953" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10221" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10219" CreationDate="2019-06-10T16:37:12.533" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would say that the clue is in the name, &lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/wiki/MiniRambo&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;em&gt;Mini&lt;/em&gt;RAMBo&lt;/a&gt;. The &lt;em&gt;Mini&lt;/em&gt; part is related to its diminutive size and reduced functionality.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Extending the board would require patching in a secondary board to the MiniRAMBo board via pins&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; that may or may not exist, and would probably be more trouble than it is worth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looking at the &lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/wiki/File:MiniRambo1.3a-connections.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;board layout&lt;/a&gt; certainly shows that there are not any readily available connections for such an expansion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HDDJi.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HDDJi.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want two extruders then the &lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/wiki/Rambo&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;RAMBo&lt;/a&gt; would be a better bet, as it has 5 stepper motor driver outputs. It would certainly be easier, and quicker (as well as cheaper) than a MiniRAMBo plus a secondary daughter board).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, as the MiniRAMBo has two Z-axis controllers, it &lt;em&gt;may&lt;/em&gt; be possible to repurpose one of them, &lt;em&gt;if&lt;/em&gt; they are wired independently of each other and separately controllable. Although these lines suggest otherwise:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It has 4 stepper drivers and 4 mosfet switched outputs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Differences from Rambo&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;MiniRambo has:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;4 stepper drivers vs. 5&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Motor Drivers&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;4 A4982 1/16th microstep motor drivers(2 connectors on Z for Prusa&#xA;Mendel and other dual Z printer designs)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, it would appear that the two Z axis drivers are wired together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; By &lt;em&gt;pins&lt;/em&gt;, I mean external board pins/connectors - rather than the pins of the µController itself&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4762" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:29:41.667" LastActivityDate="2019-06-10T20:05:26.257" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10222" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-06-10T21:07:09.947" Score="2" ViewCount="287" Body="&lt;p&gt;Leading on from Darth Pixel's &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/9981/why-does-the-painters-tape-have-to-be-blue#answer-9983&quot;&gt;photographically informative answer&lt;/a&gt; to &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/9981/why-does-the-painters-tape-have-to-be-blue&quot;&gt;Why does the painters tape have to be blue?&lt;/a&gt;, which showed &lt;em&gt;close up&lt;/em&gt; the plastic fibers of cheaper versions of painters tape... as Darth Pixel himself questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;is such tape melted in any way in contact with extruded filament?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In other words, does such cheap, low quality, tape use fibres made from a plastic which has a melting point &lt;em&gt;lower&lt;/em&gt; than that of PLA or ABS? If so, does this cause the tape to stick to the 3D print?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously the higher quality (manila/paper) based tapes would not suffer from this potential melting issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone have real-world experience of this? Any photos showing melting would be great.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4762" LastEditorUserId="1211" LastEditDate="2019-06-10T22:32:21.727" LastActivityDate="2019-07-10T23:16:23.793" Title="Does cheap &quot;plasticy&quot; blue painter tape actually melt when printed upon?" Tags="|masking-tape|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10224" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-06-10T23:21:40.580" Score="0" ViewCount="348" Body="&lt;p&gt;Many 3D printers are made in China, and as asbestos is still legal in China (with large ongoing production it seems).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is thus quite possible to end up with a 3D Printer that has asbestos parts in it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even though asbestos is illegal in some parts of the world (like Australia, though not the USA as far as I know), given the above, and the possible lack of care by suppliers and/or oversights during imports, one may want to do due diligence.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This becomes even more important if you plan to make modifications to your printer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When speaking with even large producers, you may also get very conflicting answers (&quot;yes part xyz has asbestos in it&quot; vs &quot;no it does not&quot;) - which further complicates the matter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Asbestos testing is usually about 50-70 USD per sample, and often destruction of the tested item is necessary, so that is not a viable way either.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are also heating elements used in printers which may be shielded with asbestos containing materials (as asbestos has good heat resistance properties).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How to avoid asbestos exposure with a high degree of certitude?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16720" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-04-28T22:43:38.243" LastActivityDate="2020-04-28T22:43:38.243" Title="3D Printers imported from China - avoiding asbestos exposure" Tags="|diy-3d-printer|printer-building|safety|replacement-parts|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ClosedDate="2019-07-02T21:43:58.297" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10225" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10209" CreationDate="2019-06-11T02:43:25.380" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Time to check things that usually don't need checking.  At this point I would check the power split. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check the power supply voltage (+12V or maybe +24V, I don't know the printer) at the controller before and after the extrusion stops or sputters.   Assure that the voltage stays the same.   If it drops you have a culprit.  While there, also check the +5V.  If the power is inconsistent,  check the connections for loose screws.  If the power is also bad at the supply,  replace it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the extruder starts clicking,  it could be under voltage or under temperature.  You have already checked for heat creep, and not found it.  Either supply voltage can mess with actual temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You have ruled out Z-height, so many possibilities are unlikely. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2082" LastActivityDate="2019-06-11T02:43:25.380" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10226" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10227" CreationDate="2019-06-11T05:04:22.853" Score="1" ViewCount="645" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the process of updating my printer (Alunar M508), I decided to add &quot;Auto Bed Leveling&quot; using a BLTouch sensor. After doing a lot of Googling:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/skryshtafovych/alunar-prusa-i3-marlin-i3-firmware&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;I found firmware&lt;/a&gt; that will upload and work with printer in default configuration (without BLTouch)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Adding BLTouch configuration, the software compiles and updates the printer, I see all new options in menu and BLTouch on &quot;power on&quot; does a self test. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know I have configured the power to the device correctly 2 power sources and ground but where I'm having issues is in identifying &lt;code&gt;Servo0&lt;/code&gt; and &lt;code&gt;ZMax/Min&lt;/code&gt; on my board. So far the black and white wire are connected to Z axis &quot;end stop&quot; but I cannot identify where to connect the orange signal wire to. I cannot find pinout anywhere of this board.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4ynqs.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4ynqs.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;LSEE 3D v1.0 board and peripherals&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16719" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-06-11T22:00:47.627" LastActivityDate="2019-06-11T22:02:33.633" Title="How to connect BLTouch sensor to Alunar M508 using LSEE 3D v1.0 board?" Tags="|prusa-i3|marlin|bed-leveling|bltouch|alunar-m508|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10227" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10226" CreationDate="2019-06-11T07:38:22.657" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The LSEE 3D is basically a &lt;a href=&quot;http://greatprinterstore.blogspot.com/2016/10/cheap-lsee-3d-v10-version-mainboard.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;RAMPS board&lt;/a&gt; (your linked source also shows that the used &lt;code&gt;MOTHERBOARD&lt;/code&gt; is a RAMPS board: &lt;code&gt;#define MOTHERBOARD BOARD_RAMPS_14_EFB&lt;/code&gt;), this implies that all pins of your board are the same as a RAMPS board. To connect the 3 pin header of the BLTouch sensor you need to connect the red wire to +5&amp;nbsp;V and the black wire to ground; the orange wire needs to be connected to an available PWM pin. As the LSEE board does not have many exposed (free) pins for you to use, you need to re-use one of the existing PWM pins that you do not use. An example is the pin nr. 2. From the &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/blob/1.1.x/Marlin/pins_RAMPS.h&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;pins_RAMPS.h file&lt;/a&gt; you see in the limit switches section:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&#xA;//&#xA;// Limit Switches&#xA;//&#xA;#define X_MIN_PIN           3&#xA;#ifndef X_MAX_PIN&#xA;  #define X_MAX_PIN         2&#xA;#endif&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It appears, from the image, that your board does have max limit end stop switches header pins available. What you could do is use the &lt;code&gt;X_MAX_PIN&lt;/code&gt; for the BLTouch sensor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This implies that you need to assign the servo pin to pin nr. 2.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the servos section of the same &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/blob/1.1.x/Marlin/pins_RAMPS.h&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;pins_RAMPS.h file&lt;/a&gt; you see that the servos are either connected to pin 7 or pin 11 (depending on the board, your linked sources use the 1.4 version). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&#xA;//&#xA;// Servos&#xA;//&#xA;#ifdef IS_RAMPS_13&#xA;  #define SERVO0_PIN        7   // RAMPS_13 // Will conflict with BTN_EN2 on LCD_I2C_VIKI&#xA;#else&#xA;  #define SERVO0_PIN       11&#xA;#endif&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using the linked sources, the 11 should be replaced with a 2. This implies that you can connect the orange wire to the &quot;signal&quot; pin of the X_MAX end stop connector.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-06-11T22:02:33.633" LastActivityDate="2019-06-11T22:02:33.633" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10228" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10224" CreationDate="2019-06-11T08:10:02.820" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;How to avoid asbestos exposure with a high degree of certitude?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're not willing to do asbestos testing yourself and can't trust your suppliers either, then this is impossible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, for most of the components on a 3D printer it is easy to verify they're asbestos-free (I've never seen a steel linear shaft containing asbestos). For the remaining components, you may be able to pick an alternative which you know to be safe, for instance an all-metal hotend without insulating tape, or a heated bed that's plain FR4 without insulation. If there are any components that you distrust specifically (such as a heater cartridge) you should source that from a trusted supplier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastActivityDate="2019-06-11T08:10:02.820" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10229" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-06-11T11:29:30.367" Score="5" ViewCount="14960" Body="&lt;p&gt;What grease to use on linear rails to make them stick as little as possible? I've tried so far: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;WD40 (let’s not start a discussion about that please), &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;silicon spray and &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;some bearing grease called ‘motorex’, &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;but with all of them the rails stick quite much and don’t slide as easily as I’d hope.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can someone recommend some good grease for linear rails (specifically the hiwin type, 12-15mm)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16467" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-06-11T12:10:13.320" LastActivityDate="2019-06-12T13:31:34.930" Title="What grease to use for linear rails?" Tags="|linear-motion|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10230" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10229" CreationDate="2019-06-11T11:44:51.160" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Don't use grease&lt;/strong&gt;, it is better to use a &lt;strong&gt;light oil&lt;/strong&gt; to lubricate the rods.  A light oil will help flush out any dust and filament debris, grease will trap it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've used both light machine oil (like used for sewing machines) and PTFE based spray (Teflon). Grease is thick and will collect and trap dust and particles more easily than light machine oil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Even high-end consumer printers use light machine oil, e.g. the Ultimaker 3 Extended I got came with a bottle of light machine oil for the linear guide rails. Their advice is to regularly add a drop of oil on each shaft once in a while (how frequent depends on how much your printer prints).&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-06-12T13:08:29.567" LastActivityDate="2019-06-12T13:08:29.567" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10231" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10232" CreationDate="2019-06-11T13:39:43.343" Score="4" ViewCount="1256" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Monoprice Maker Select Plus, where I'm doing the &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B07B251KBS&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Gulf Coast Robotics carriage plate&lt;/a&gt; upgrade. I was watching through an installation video just to find any &amp;quot;gotchas&amp;quot; I might want to watch for, and the guy in video &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GOHkaqd4inA&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;recommends removing one of the carriage bearings&lt;/a&gt;, going from 4 to 3. The idea is to get quieter, smoother travels, with less weight on the belt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has anyone else here done this for this model printer? Or for the very-similar Maker Select v2/2.1? Are there any downsides I should watch for? Everything I know seems to indicate 3 bearings are just better (the whole &amp;quot;3 points define a plane&amp;quot; thing), but if it's that simple, why go to the cost of shipping with 4?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did end up making the switch, and it has worked well. One thing I've noticed is markedly increased ringing/ghosting. However, it should also be noted I switched to a stronger (heavier) build plate at the same time, and that likely is also contributing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12562" LastEditorUserId="12562" LastEditDate="2022-05-31T13:33:18.863" LastActivityDate="2022-05-31T13:33:18.863" Title="3 vs 4 bearings for y axis travel" Tags="|y-axis|bearing|monoprice-maker-select-plus|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10232" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10231" CreationDate="2019-06-11T14:00:47.713" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ideally you would use three bearings opposed to four. In principle you will only need 3 fixtures to get a stable reference frame. Look at how most Prusa i3 &quot;X&quot; carriages are constructed, they also have just three bearings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Three bearings are way more easy to line out (especially with tight tolerance bearings), with four bearings you will get binding much more easy than with three.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've been using three linear (&lt;a href=&quot;/q/6298/&quot;&gt;self printed tight tolerance acetal/POM&lt;/a&gt;) bearings on the moving bed (Y direction) for quite some time on a Prusa i3 type of printer made from 2040 Aluminium profiles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;A similar reasoning applies to fixating the heated bed/glass slate, only three screws are necessary to define the reference plane. This is how my CoreXY heated bed is connected to the &quot;Z&quot; platform (a slate of glass is perfectly flat as a result of the production process).&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-06-11T14:17:32.550" LastActivityDate="2019-06-11T14:17:32.550" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10233" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8616" CreationDate="2019-06-11T17:23:05.907" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Ender 3 has a 360 W power supply. This is the maximum power the printer can use. However, if engineered correctly, it should never actually reach this level of consumption to prevent premature failure of the power supply. It will use the most power during initial warm up, which is a relatively short amount of time. Then the average power consumption will drop considerably once at temperature. So, an average of 120 Wh per hour seems like a reasonable estimate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It turns out that if you are paying 11.4 cents per kWh (which is a nominal price in the US) the price of running something 24 hours a day is \$1 per Watt per Year. So if you ran your printer all year long nonstop it would cost \$120 per year or \$10 per month.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since you live in New York, you probably pay about 1.5 times as much for electricity or 17.1 cents per kWh. So you'd multiply the figures above by 1.5, so you would get \$15 per month. Also, you don't use your printer 24 hours a day. Let's say you want to print an average of 8 hours a day. That's 1/3 of the day, so you'd divide your figure by 3 and get \$5 per month. You'd hardly notice a difference in your electric bill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16725" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-12-01T23:01:53.993" LastActivityDate="2020-12-01T23:01:53.993" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10234" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-06-11T21:58:02.273" Score="2" ViewCount="2904" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just updated my Maker Select Plus from the stock (I believe RepRap-based) firmware to Advi3pp, which is Marlin based. The printer starts up and everything seems okay, but I haven't actually tried a print yet and there was a message during the upgrade about deleting incompatible settings. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What do I need to do to recalibrate the printer following the firmware upgrade?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12562" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-12-10T06:02:26.863" LastActivityDate="2020-10-10T05:55:41.330" Title="What do I need to do to recalibrate my printer after updating the firmware?" Tags="|marlin|calibration|firmware|monoprice-maker-select-plus|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10235" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10234" CreationDate="2019-06-11T22:10:42.557" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If it is Marlin based or RepRap based, many parameters are stored in EEPROM memory. A G-code command &lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#M502:_Read_parameters_from_.22configuration.h.22&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;M502: Read parameters from &quot;configuration.h&quot;&lt;/a&gt; would reset all parameters that can be changed to their default value as defined in your configuration file. Don't forget to follow the &lt;code&gt;M502&lt;/code&gt; command with a &lt;code&gt;M500&lt;/code&gt; command to store the loaded parameters to EEPROM. This would overwrite all previous settings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sub&gt;&lt;em&gt;From the linked source, &lt;code&gt;M502&lt;/code&gt;:&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;This command resets all tunable parameters to their default values, as set in the firmware. This doesn't reset any parameters stored in the EEPROM, so it must be followed with M500 if you want to do that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can send these commands over a terminal interface to the printer using applications such as Pronterface, OctoPrint, Repetier-Host, and probably many more, or store the commands in a G-code file (e.g. a text file with a &lt;code&gt;.g&lt;/code&gt; extension) and print the file using an SD card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-06-11T22:23:41.323" LastActivityDate="2019-06-11T22:23:41.323" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10236" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-06-12T00:11:48.253" Score="3" ViewCount="271" Body="&lt;p&gt;How can I print an embossed image in a concaved shape?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Like a big saucer. I will use this an a mold for a project.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So far I've found lots of software with huge spread of features. It's sort of overwhelming. There is lots of ways to create images into 3D printable objects but to add the extra step and concaving that image is harder to find out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How would you do it? I'm open to suggestions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm new to 3D printing and would really appreciate the help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16729" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-06-12T04:17:54.263" LastActivityDate="2021-04-29T15:26:28.403" Title="How do I concave an image to create a 3D file for use in a 3D printer?" Tags="|3d-models|3d-design|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10237" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10236" CreationDate="2019-06-12T06:04:47.427" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;What you describe, sounds like you want to create a lithophane; a pattern etched or engraved on a thin translucent base material (in your case a bowl) that can only be seen clearly when backlit with a light source behind it. Apparently you want to use it for another purpose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Special software and or scripts that transform the image to the base material exist. An example is e.g. &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2770219&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this sphere which becomes a globe when lit from the inside&lt;/a&gt;. Recommending a tool for creating such bowl is a little &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.meta.stackexchange.com/questions/357/are-shopping-questions-on-topic-for-the-site&quot;&gt;out of scope&lt;/a&gt; as these types of questions become outdated very quickly as technology changes or tools cease to exist. With the provided information you should be able to find software that is able to provide what you want to do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2019-06-12T06:04:47.427" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10238" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14324" CreationDate="2019-06-12T07:55:33.040" Score="9" ViewCount="22585" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am searching for a Linux software to control the 3000 mW laser engraver depicted below. It's a common model you'd find on AliExpress, Banggood, etc. under different brand names.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have already tried &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/AxelTB/nejePrint&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;nejePrint&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/LaserWeb/LaserWeb4/wiki&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;LaserWeb&lt;/a&gt;, and &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/camrein/EzGraver&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;EzGraver&lt;/a&gt;, but they don't work. Any ideas?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kHoYY.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kHoYY.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10684" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-07-29T21:16:17.007" LastActivityDate="2021-09-01T15:52:38.963" Title="Linux software for laser engraver" Tags="|software|laser|linux|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10239" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4304" CreationDate="2019-06-12T13:19:35.547" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am using the same printer (v1.2) with some upgrades and have been using the latest Ultimaker Cura (4.1) ever since they came out. For the first few prints I used an imported Ultimaker Cura profile, but after 3-4 bad prints I created a new profile from scratch, using a percentage for infill, with no problems at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1882" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-06-12T14:00:12.620" LastActivityDate="2019-06-12T14:00:12.620" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10240" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10229" CreationDate="2019-06-12T13:25:43.267" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have (what I thought was Silicon) spray that was given to me by the garage door installer to lube the rollers for my garage doors. I spray some on a paper towel and wipe the X, Y and Z bars with that. It is called Zep 70.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.zep.com/product/zepcorporate/zep-70&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.zep.com/product/zepcorporate/zep-70&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Zep 70 is a soy-based penetrating lubricant that utilizes a renewable soy solvent. It provides excellent long-lasting lubrication, and superior water displacement properties. Zep 70 will penetrate quickly and clean dirt and grease. It will also protect against rust and corrosion. Zep 70 is packaged in a 24 oz. can with a net weight of 18 ounces. &#xA;  Utilizing a soy-based solvent, a renewable source, helps to conserve nonrenewable resources such as petroleum.&#xA;  Non-evaporative solvent extends life of the lubricant.&#xA;  Quickly penetrates parts frozen from rust or corrosion.&#xA;  Displaces moisture and condensation which can cause corrosion.&#xA;  Treated surfaces are protected from rust.&#xA;  Helps clean dirt and grease from metal surfaces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Reading the can contents, the Lubricant part seems to be TSRN-80100428-5003&#xA;The guides seem to slide on the bars with this stuff. Can't find a google hit on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also made a polycarbonate enclosure around my printer to keep dust from settling on everything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16523" LastEditorUserId="16523" LastEditDate="2019-06-12T13:31:34.930" LastActivityDate="2019-06-12T13:31:34.930" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10241" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10234" CreationDate="2019-06-12T13:38:41.950" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Looks like I don't need to do anything. I printed a 20 mm calibration cube, and aside from some elephant footing it came out as clean and as close to the model dimensions as anything else I've ever put through the machine, with no changes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I'll recommend this as a first step to anyone else: start a 20 mm cube going, watch it closely early on to be sure you're getting adequate extrusion and bed adhesion. If it fails here you may need to adjust settings. When it's done, measure it and see where you are. You might not need to do anything else.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12562" LastActivityDate="2019-06-12T13:38:41.950" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10242" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10176" CreationDate="2019-06-12T13:51:08.707" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Received and installed the WhamBam system, and it works great! Have been letting it heat to 60C, which I'm pretty sure is not making it all the way thru the magnet, flex steel plate, and the PEX surface, but parts are adhering great and pop right off the PEX just by the act of picking up the plate, even a large box bottom (~68mm x 95mm) came off so easily I thought it had lost adhesion - my wife printed several items earlier and they came off the same way. I am impressed with the system!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We had lost a blade off the hot end fan (and turns out it was 3 blades), initial prints had failed to adhere on the PEX, the PLA didn't appear to be extruding properly, and the fan irregularity was very irritating. Internet searches indicated the plastic melting temp was not accurate enough.  Replaced the fan and every print since has been great.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT 6/14/2019  Here is a youtube clip of a freshly printed door knob (screen door latch) coming off a 60C bed, no problem!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/a7nms-t8peQ?start=0&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And a larger box, ~65 x 98mm, that popped right off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/ku-fMtnlXhQ?start=0&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16523" LastEditorUserId="16523" LastEditDate="2019-06-17T02:29:54.317" LastActivityDate="2019-06-17T02:29:54.317" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10243" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10238" CreationDate="2019-06-12T14:32:50.367" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;A program that lists as functional with Linux is &lt;a href=&quot;https://lightburnsoftware.com/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Lightburn&lt;/a&gt;. It's new to the laser engraving world and supports GRBL type controllers as well as Ruida brand and possibly a few others. If you can determine your controller, you're a step ahead of the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Directly from their site:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;LightBurn&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;LightBurn is layout, editing, and control software for your laser&#xA;  cutter. With LightBurn you can:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Import artwork in a variety of common vector graphic and image formats (including AI, PDF, SVG, DXF, PLT, PNG, JPG, GIF, BMP)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Arrange, edit, and even create new vector shapes within the editor, with powerful features like offsetting, boolean operations, welding,&#xA;  and node editing&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Apply settings like power, speed, number of passes, cut order, brightness &amp;amp; contrast, dithering mode, and much more&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Send the result directly to your laser cutter&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;LightBurn is a native application written for Windows, Mac OS, and&#xA;  Linux.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vnbTz.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vnbTz.png&quot; alt=&quot;lightburn logo&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm a satisfied Lightburn user, not a company representative.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastActivityDate="2019-06-12T14:32:50.367" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10244" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10245" CreationDate="2019-06-12T14:38:44.383" Score="4" ViewCount="1368" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/52340-quality&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Ultimaker Cura documentation&lt;/a&gt; says&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Tip:&lt;/strong&gt; If you use an unavailable third party nozzle size, set the line&#xA;  width to equal the nozzle size.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I sliced an object with a 0.3&amp;nbsp;mm line width. When the nozzle size is 0.4&amp;nbsp;mm, the results are &lt;em&gt;almost&lt;/em&gt; the same as when the nozzle is 0.3&amp;nbsp;mm. The filament usage is slightly different and the gcode files have similar, but different, coordinates throughout.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What does &lt;strong&gt;nozzle size&lt;/strong&gt; really do besides suggest the line width?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16737" LastEditorUserId="16737" LastEditDate="2019-06-12T21:28:53.563" LastActivityDate="2019-08-09T19:53:03.067" Title="What does nozzle size affect besides line width in, e.g., Ultimaker Cura?" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|nozzle|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10245" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10244" CreationDate="2019-06-12T15:55:00.030" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Searching the &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/Ultimaker/CuraEngine&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;CuraEngine source&lt;/a&gt;, the only places I can find where nozzle size is used directly involve some arcane logic for merging of infill lines, such as:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/Ultimaker/CuraEngine/blob/05e93dabce9e863b8742fd69ed87717e1594e7a9/src/MergeInfillLines.cpp#L124&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://github.com/Ultimaker/CuraEngine/blob/05e93dabce9e863b8742fd69ed87717e1594e7a9/src/MergeInfillLines.cpp#L124&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So essentially, yes, nozzle size mainly serves as a default value for the line width settings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, in general it's not always possible for line width different from nozzle size to be honored.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;For line widths smaller than the nozzle, motion along a path where the material being deposited has proper adhesion is required to stretch the material and prevent it from retaining the width extruded from the nozzle, and small lines already printed are likely to be damaged by the nozzle when attempting to print additional small lines in their vicinity. In particular, you won't be able to print small details significantly below the nozzle size just by extruding less material.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;For line widths larger than the nozzle, compression against an existing surface is required to prevent the extra material from just sagging down rather than expanding horizontally. In particular, line widths wider than the nozzle are unlikely to work right in the presence of overhangs.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, as noted by Tim Kuipers in comments, there are places outside the source, but rather in the json-based configuration tree, where nozzle size plays a role in the defaults and warning ranges for other parameters. Those are mostly line widths, but&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The nozzle size can affect the values of the following settings besides line width in &lt;code&gt;fdmprinter.def.json&lt;/code&gt;: Outer Wall Inset, Outer Wall Wipe Distance and Minimum Support XY Distance. Other than that it only influences the conditions under which setting-values give you a warning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastEditorUserId="11157" LastEditDate="2019-08-09T19:53:03.067" LastActivityDate="2019-08-09T19:53:03.067" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10246" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-06-12T18:23:22.583" Score="0" ViewCount="20" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does anybody know anyone from the R3 team or have any insights  into their scalability and reliability claims?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The format and potential cost savings are appealing...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We are looking for an industrial scale 3D printing solution for the connectors that make up our TWIND Power Exoblades and R3 looks like a cool startup, on their web page at least &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://r3printing.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://r3printing.com/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://discordapp.com/channels/532618939486699520/532622198133882880&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://discordapp.com/channels/532618939486699520/532622198133882880&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://discord.gg/JFxAXzd&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://discord.gg/JFxAXzd&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;r2&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16740" LastActivityDate="2019-06-12T18:23:22.583" Title="R3 Insights into industrial scale claims" Tags="|3d-design|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10247" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7228" CreationDate="2019-06-12T20:03:09.770" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm gonna go out on a limb here and say this is probably not a good idea in any capacity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First off, if you take a look at &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Template:Smoke_point_of_cooking_oils&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;this list&lt;/a&gt; of cooking oils, you'll notice that pretty much all of them have smoke points below the printing temperature of ABS, with a handful of exceptions that have smoke points just barely above that temperature. All that means is that the hydrocarbon chains are going to break down inside your extruder, which really accomplishes nothing helpful for you. As the compounds break down further and oxidize with the small amounts of air coming into the extruder, you're going to get carbon fouling on all surfaces, including the filament itself as it extrudes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second, and this depends entirely on the amount of oil present, but I'd expect to see oil actually coating the filament somewhat as it comes out of the nozzle, and acting as a separating agent between the lines of filament on the print itself. I'm not sure how much you'd actually experience this, but again, best case scenario is it doesn't happen, and the oil doesn't give you any real advantage here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Third, the process of seasoning cast iron works because the surface of the cast iron should be smooth for minimal food sticking, and any kind of rusting causes pits and porosity in the metal. Seasoning just ensures that oil stays in the metal to prevent moisture from interacting with it, and to provide a very thin oil layer that somewhat separates food from the metal until the food is hot enough that its own fats have started to lubricate it against the pan. Extruders on the other hand really shouldn't have porous surfaces nor be made of easily oxidized materials. Stainless heatbreaks, aluminum blocks, brass nozzles, all of these really aren't going to rust readily and probably won't benefit much from an oil coating.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fourth, if you're looking for a nonstick coating for the interior of the extruder, a PTFE liner has been known to give excellent results for a very long time now. If you're printing above the temperatures PTFE can survive at, then unfortunately you're also printing above the temperatures that pretty much any cooking oil (or petroleum jelly) will survive without rapidly breaking down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So to summarize, you're not going to find many oils that can even survive inside an extruder, and they wouldn't really give you many benefits for the duration of time that they weren't just a charcoal slurry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16621" LastActivityDate="2019-06-12T20:03:09.770" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10248" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-06-12T20:32:46.783" Score="3" ViewCount="3443" Body="&lt;p&gt;I thought I have already had and fixed every problem one could possibly have with a 3D printer. Guess I was wrong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I haven't used my Creality CR-10 for a few weeks, everything was working the last time I tried. Today I wanted to print something minor and the printer just randomly paused a few times in the middle of the print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To be exact, it seems that after a few G-code commands have been executed the printer just freezes for like 10 seconds and then continues like nothing happened. This occurred a few times and every time the nozzle is melting the surrounding plastic and extruding a little which ruins the print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have tried:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Print from SD Card&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Print from Laptop via USB connection to Ultimaker Cura&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Print different models at different settings&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My theory is that either there is a core problem with how Ultimaker Cura exports the G-code files or something is wrong with the printer software. I thought that maybe re-installing the firmware might fix it but I heard that that is a risky process. What do I do?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14345" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2019-07-16T17:32:13.270" LastActivityDate="2019-10-13T19:03:51.160" Title="CR-10 randomly pauses for a few seconds" Tags="|firmware|creality-cr-10|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="8" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10249" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8226" CreationDate="2019-06-12T21:23:13.367" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The simple answer is that there's no way to guarantee you reach a specific maximum speed, with a given acceleration limit. You have to accelerate and decelerate along the length of a line, so the distance you're accelerating is roughly half the length of the total line. Imagine you can only accelerate at 50&amp;nbsp;mm/s&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;, and you've got a line that allows you to reach exactly 100&amp;nbsp;mm/s before you start decelerating. If you have to print a shorter line, you're going to reach a lower speed. Any combination of maximum speed and maximum acceleration can be defeated just by printing a shorter line than you tested with. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as a sweet spot goes, I'm not sure quite what you're asking there. There are tradeoffs to be considered for any combination of speed, jerk, and acceleration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Prints with high jerk settings will be able to &quot;skip&quot; a certain portion of the acceleration and just jump straight to some minimum speed. This tends to result in echo artifacts on the print around corners.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Prints with low acceleration settings tend to exhibit some irregularities in line width over the length of the line due to the interaction between pressure and extrusion rate inside the extruder. I went into some detail on the third section of &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10061/are-there-practical-reasons-to-not-use-a-stepper-motor-with-lead-screw-for-the-x/10085#10085&quot;&gt;this previous answer&lt;/a&gt; of how and why this happens.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Prints with high top speeds, but low acceleration and jerk, can suffer from under-extrusion if you set your maximum speed too high, and it can be a little difficult to diagnose this in some cases. If you think of the extruder as having an internal &quot;buffer&quot; of molten plastic, that buffer tends to fill at low print speeds, and empty at higher print speeds. You may think you've got your maximum speed set appropriately, when in reality your extruder drains the buffer over maybe 50&amp;nbsp;mm of max speed printing (hypothetical nonsensical number), and attempting to print very long straight lines may result in the extruder emptying its buffer until it slows down again. My recommendation is to do some trial and error testing to figure out the fastest extrusion rate your printer can support for an extended period of time, and then put that maximum limit into your printer firmware to prevent printing too quickly. Acceleration and jerk settings should be set as high as you can tolerate without causing echoes and other odd artifacts, with attention paid to the printer itself; it gains you nothing to shake your frame to pieces trying to chase some theoretical maximum printing speed limit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16621" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-07-12T22:13:20.513" LastActivityDate="2019-07-12T22:13:20.513" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10250" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10251" CreationDate="2019-06-12T21:25:41.080" Score="1" ViewCount="81" Body="&lt;p&gt;Recently on one of her videos a YouTuber stated that prints from large format printers are more brittle than if you were to print them in parts and glue them together. This seems to contradict the testimonials from the customers of a large format printer, who say that they get good prints from those printers (which print have a print area of a meter square). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would a print form a larger format printer be more brittle than a print made of smaller pieces super glued together?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(with all other aspects being equal e.g. the nozzle, the temps, the material and the shape of the object).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The YouTube didn't cite any source information to back up her claim.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12857" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-06-12T22:02:45.613" LastActivityDate="2019-06-13T11:34:08.550" Title="Are large format prints more brittle?" Tags="|large-format|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10251" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10250" CreationDate="2019-06-12T21:38:16.477" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you break up a large piece into multiple smaller pieces and properly glue them together, you basically add stiffeners (as a result of printing walls). This could lead to a more stiff model; this might have been confused by calling large prints more brittle opposed to constructed models.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If printing is conducted at similar conditions on large printers, there shouldn't be a reason why the model becomes more brittle unless the conditions aren't the same. But that would be true for printing at small printers too, e.g. if one print was printed in a draft.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-06-12T21:57:43.413" LastActivityDate="2019-06-12T21:57:43.413" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10252" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4706" CreationDate="2019-06-12T22:55:16.533" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Nail polish will not damage your PLA model.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) Let's talk about &quot;gel&quot; nail polish. Gel polish self-levels, does not drip, is cheap, is much more health-friendly than many finishing methods, and only takes 30 seconds under a suitable strength UV/LED lamp to dry, providing a thick smooth coat (clear, color, glitter!, anything) that makes any layer lines disappear. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) The FDA regulates nail polish in its &quot;cosmetics&quot; category, so, not only are the ingredients known, they have to be printed on the bottle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3) Gel polish consists of various methacrylate monomers which undergo a radical (in the chemistry sense, although it is pretty darn cool too) polymerization process that is UV-activable. Filament is primarily polyactide, which is polymerized at room temperature. Polymerized polyactide reacts with methylacrylate at the ends of the long strands (not in the middle, which is what you would describe as &quot;damage&quot;). Methylacrylate actually makes the PLA ends less reactive (read: it makes it stronger). As an industrial material, this compound is known as &quot;supertoughened&quot; PLA.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope that clears things up a bit. As an aside, if you're not familiar with the different families of nail polishes, and you want to try this, you can tell if the polish you're looking at is &quot;gel&quot; because the bottle will be opaque (keeps UV out).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16741" LastActivityDate="2019-06-12T22:55:16.533" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10253" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4601" CreationDate="2019-06-13T00:04:25.403" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Formlabs sells a completely clear resin that they've even made simple lenses from, but it's about $150 for a liter. I have no idea how well it would work with your DLP setup. Looks amazing in the pictures though. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;MatterHackers sells PhotoCentric UV Firm Clear for $90 for a liter as well. It's not quite as easy finding pictures of this stuff, but from what it looks like, it's still pretty decent. Assuming you've got a UV DLP &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Disclaimer, the PhotoCentric stuff says it's a UV resin (10nm to 400nm IIRC) and I have not the slightest clue what Formlabs designs their resin for, so YMMV.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16621" LastActivityDate="2019-06-13T00:04:25.403" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10256" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10250" CreationDate="2019-06-13T11:34:08.550" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd recommend getting the object to fit together by design, rather than glue - though I tend (if the item is never to be disassembled) use Zap-a-gap - that stuff sticks like crazy though you must not squeeze the parts together but let it naturally sit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16747" LastActivityDate="2019-06-13T11:34:08.550" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10258" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4084" CreationDate="2019-06-13T16:52:02.340" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I haven't found a good way to flood the entire machine, including the electronics, with CO2 gas or another extinguisher when the alarm sounds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A servo or some other actuator attached to a fire extinguisher, and then attach it to a thermocouple or some other sensor.  Maybe a knockoff Arduino, which the small ones are 2 bucks a pop.  Since Arduinos are open source, you aren't pirating anything, so clear conscience.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16752" LastActivityDate="2019-06-13T16:52:02.340" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10259" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-06-13T19:49:37.733" Score="2" ViewCount="95" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to print a flowerpots, for advanced watering system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Plants are going to be eaten.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the most suitable material, when we consider the fact, that we do not want to just make forms and do clay flowerpots(which may seem most healthier), but having them directly printed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are the temperatures that makes plastics emit dangerous components in surrounding water, and what are those components?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there some &quot;totally safe&quot; material out there? I was thinking of PLA or PETG, because I've already heard that ABS is not safe for edibles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16594" LastActivityDate="2019-06-14T14:33:57.020" Title="Material for printing flowerpots" Tags="|material|food|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10260" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10259" CreationDate="2019-06-13T21:26:54.853" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I printed some pots for sprouting seedlings this year from PLA.  A square array of pots with tiny drainage holes in the bottom.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The array filled the bed of a Prusa3d i3m3.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The seeds sprouted, except for the ground cherries, which I think failed because the seeds were bad.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had good germination rates for tomatoes and basil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to the FDA, ABS is generally safe for food, although like any filament the pigment and any added chemicals may be contraindicated for continued health.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2082" LastActivityDate="2019-06-13T21:26:54.853" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10261" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10205" CreationDate="2019-06-13T21:44:29.540" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I agree with the use of OpenSCAD, but since it is difficult to program in OpenSCAD, I would use &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/SolidCode/SolidPython&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;SolidPython&lt;/a&gt;, which is a front end for OpenSCAD with the full programming capability of Python.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the alternative, you could use any programming language to decode your arrays and generate the OpenSCAD code for the little network of cubes (or voxels).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The final possibility is to generate an STL file directly.  I've helped someone do this, but we found the rules to be a little non-intuitive.  We used mesh tools to check out results, both by looking for error messages, and by displaying the result to see if it looked as we intended it to look.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2082" LastEditorUserId="12562" LastEditDate="2019-06-14T20:52:53.543" LastActivityDate="2019-06-14T20:52:53.543" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10262" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10189" CreationDate="2019-06-13T23:51:43.617" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;(This is more of an electronics.stackexchange.com question btw).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is not only ok, it is absolutely necessary. The systems won't operate correctly unless all the gnds are tied together. Since this is a stepper motor, you don't have to worry about noise getting back onto the power supply lines for the logic supply, since the stepper board has a decoupling capacitor(s) to keep stabilize the power to the motors and the VCC of the logic supply will be unaffected by the GND of the other supply that its tied to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12857" LastEditorUserId="12857" LastEditDate="2019-06-14T17:08:39.207" LastActivityDate="2019-06-14T17:08:39.207" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10263" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4084" CreationDate="2019-06-14T00:01:47.330" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, you should use a thermal fuse. But only to protect the board itself from an overheating condition. PTC fuses however; is a no.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The PTC resettable fuse after it trips the first time, doesn't return to it's former low impedence state for a long time. Sometimes hours, sometimes days, sometimes years. As it maintains its higher resistance even though the system is not in an over heated state, the fuse will trip faster the next time. This could lead to false positives during print or other operation. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The resetting will often not take place even if the fault alone has&#xA;  been removed with the power still flowing as the operating current may&#xA;  be above the holding current of the PPTC. The device may not return to&#xA;  its original resistance value; it will most likely stabilize at a&#xA;  significantly higher resistance (up to 4 times initial value). It&#xA;  could take hours, days, weeks or even years for the device to return&#xA;  to a resistance value similar to its original value, if at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Resettable_fuse&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Resettable_fuse&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Currently, I am investigating the use of a hall effect current sensor and some circuitry. Based on the duration and magnitude of the current, a small capacitor is charged. When a threshold is reached (as determined by a voltage comparitor), the power is withdrawn to let the capacitor discharge (and the heating element cool). This &lt;em&gt;should&lt;/em&gt; keep the heating element from reaching a temp above a configurable maximum.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12857" LastEditorUserId="12857" LastEditDate="2019-06-18T05:14:55.730" LastActivityDate="2019-06-18T05:14:55.730" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10264" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-06-14T12:03:44.073" Score="3" ViewCount="126" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd like some advice regarding defects on my print :&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5x4u2.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5x4u2.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3CgUe.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3CgUe.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here some details :&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Printer CR-10 S, nozzle 0.4&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Material PLA&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bed 60, Hotend 215, 50 mm/s speed&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;SLiced with cura 4.1, 5 walls (i can provide more detail of the profile if needed)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Layer height 0.1&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;modeled on fusion 360&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The surface where the defect sits is actually tilted 45 degres&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks !&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16756" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2019-06-15T16:56:24.673" LastActivityDate="2019-06-15T16:56:24.673" Title="Possible causes of print defects?" Tags="|print-quality|troubleshooting|creality-cr-10|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10265" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6358" CreationDate="2019-06-14T13:58:46.527" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Minimalist Solution&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The very simplest possible implementation is to use a single resistor(!) to protect the input pin, as described in this &lt;a href=&quot;https://scienceprog.com/using-current-limiting-resistors-on-avr-io-pins/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;source&lt;/a&gt;. The AVR inputs are protected from over/under voltage by internal silicon diodes D1 and D2. The input resistor must be sized such that it will conduct no more than 1 mA when the internal clamping diode, D1, conducts at Vcc+0.5V, or 5.5V in this case. A 22K resistor could work in this case if we use our 24V supply for the sensor. Our current through the clamping diode is calculated by Ohm's Law as (24V - 5.5V)/22K = 0.84 mA.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is no reason, in this case, to cut so close to the bone though. We do not need particularly high speed detection for this application, so a 100K resistor would be a better choice, and limits diode D1 to 0.19 mA. This gives additional protection for voltage spikes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This solution works well until the internal diode gets fried by a spike or surge, so it is much better to add redundancy, and use a pair of external Schottky clamping diodes, which have a lower forward voltage drop and will conduct before the internal silicon diodes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, my solution, (the one I plan to implement soon on my own Ender 3 Pro*), is from &lt;a href=&quot;https://scienceprog.com/using-current-limiting-resistors-on-avr-io-pins/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this source article&lt;/a&gt; and looks like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Iudxx.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Iudxx.png&quot; alt=&quot;Circuit diagram showing protection diodes for AVR input&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Where R1, D3, and D4 are my external components as described, and C1 is omitted for simplicity. (If C1 is used, it forms a low-pass RC filter, so you'd need to size it appropriately. If we find that noise or 'bounce' is an issue, we can add C1 easily later.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my opinion a single 100K resistor and two Schottky diodes are adequate protection for this circuit, and the 6-36V proximity sensor will work very well on the available 24V supply.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*Based on the first comment to this proposed solution, I recognize the need to look carefully at the failsafe property here. Depending on whether the existing Z endstop is included in the loop, and how Marlin handles this too will determine whether this is a satisfactory solution.&#xA;I'll leave my part of the discussion there for now, until I get closer to design and implementation on my own machine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16758" LastEditorUserId="16758" LastEditDate="2019-06-15T04:56:23.200" LastActivityDate="2019-06-15T04:56:23.200" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10266" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10264" CreationDate="2019-06-14T14:22:13.667" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are many possible causes for printing defects, but the easiest one to eliminate is dirt. Always use a filament cleaner to prevent dirt from entering the extruder. There are plenty of designs available on &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/search?q=filament+cleaner&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Thingiverse&lt;/a&gt;. Always keep your nozzle clean. After pre-heating mine, I clean it (carefully) with a folded paper kitchen towel. It may also be worthwhile doing a &quot;cold pull&quot;, if you suspect that you have dirt in your nozzle. Finally, you should check that filament is not leaking out between the nozzle and the heater block.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3953" LastActivityDate="2019-06-14T14:22:13.667" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10267" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10259" CreationDate="2019-06-14T14:33:57.020" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Given the tendancy for extrusion 3D prints to be porous, aside from any potential health/ingestion issues, I'd recommend lining your pots after printing. You could use an epoxy that's food-rated, or a thin layer of concrete, or even sheet metal if you have access to a bender (or aluminum foil, for that matter).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So far as temperature-dependent outgassing, that's not an issue unless your garden will reach temperatures over 150 Celsius :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2191" LastActivityDate="2019-06-14T14:33:57.020" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10268" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-06-14T15:04:46.830" Score="4" ViewCount="1596" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Ultimaker Cura, is there a setting to slow down just the first layer (or two layers) covering over the infill? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not talking about the top layers, since you may have infill covered over during a lower section of the print. And I'm not talking about bridging, since this isn't a true bridge, and quick testing shows the bridge settings don't seem to control this. I'm also not talking about the whole layer, since you may have just a section of a layer involved with covering the infill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I want, is, whenever a print transitions from infill back to shell, that first section of shell above the infill (and maybe also the next layer going the opposite direction) should be slower. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I've observed is this layer prints at the same speed as other shell sections, which can be too fast at this point for complete coverage, leaving a stringy section. This won't be visible later, but it does matter for strength and potentially quality; if expected filament isn't deposited it has to end up somewhere. Slowing down should help get a cleaner layer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can Ultimaker Cura do this? I don't care which version. For completeness, what about other slicers? Even if I normally use Cura, I might be tempted to use a different slicer that can do this if I have a part where it really matters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12562" LastEditorUserId="12562" LastEditDate="2019-07-15T19:40:12.500" LastActivityDate="2019-08-16T09:41:33.300" Title="Slow down first layer above infill in Ultimaker Cura" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|slicing|infill|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10269" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10264" CreationDate="2019-06-14T21:04:41.337" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This could be a problem with the filament rather than the printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the filament contains air bubbles, they will heat and pressurize.  The additional pressure can increase the flow rate for a moment as the molten material in front of the bubble is expelled.  The flow rate decreases after the bubble pops through the nozzle because the now-empty space needs to be filled by the extruder pressing new filament into the melt zone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this is happening, you might hear little pops.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively, the filament may have absorbed water, which can convert to steam and explode out the nozzle like a bubble would.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Drying filament isn't hard.  I use my household oven at it's lowest temperature, which is typically about 160 degrees Farenheit.  This is high enough to slightly soften PLA, so don't go any high than you must.  Bake the filament for an hour, let it cool before handling it and try again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The filament may not be quite as round after baking, but the cross-sectional area shouldn't change.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the problem is from bubbles, there isn't anything you can do to fix it.  If it is from water, you can fix the filament.  I'd suggest baking the filament and seeing if anything changes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2082" LastActivityDate="2019-06-14T21:04:41.337" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10270" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10268" CreationDate="2019-06-15T16:53:48.593" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;As far as I know, Cura has no option to do this. Conceptually Cura treats the model as a solid, so that the material over infill is not &quot;overhang&quot;. However, you may be able to hack it by using the &quot;magic mesh surface mode&quot; feature under &quot;special modes&quot;, to treat the model as a surface rather than a solid, then enable support and use the same model as a mask for where support material should be printed, and print support as infill-only. Alternatively you might just print a second copy of the model as infill-only (0 walls and 0 layers of top/bottom skin) in the same location.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2019-06-15T16:53:48.593" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10271" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-06-15T19:41:16.923" Score="6" ViewCount="22009" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am working with Ender 3 Pro and in menu it has an option to cooldown. Is there any need to cooldown 3D printer before shutdown or can I just shutdown without cooldown? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16769" LastActivityDate="2019-06-16T17:35:23.897" Title="Should I cooldown before shutdown?" Tags="|creality-ender-3|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10272" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10273" CreationDate="2019-06-15T20:37:43.283" Score="7" ViewCount="7774" Body="&lt;p&gt;A fillet is like a rounded corner but on the inside of the corner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XDTnd.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XDTnd.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does it make a difference (structurally) to use fillets on a 3d printed part?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12857" LastEditorUserId="11242" LastEditDate="2019-06-15T21:46:09.950" LastActivityDate="2024-02-19T10:04:46.670" Title="Should I include fillets on my 3d printed parts?" Tags="|3d-models|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10273" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10272" CreationDate="2019-06-15T21:15:25.947" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;If your part needs structural support, then the word is: &lt;strong&gt;absolutely&lt;/strong&gt;. Fillets provide the added support when you need it. If your part has a meeting line which is sharp - 90° (or perpendicular), there is a natural &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/q/18183/4152&quot;&gt;stress riser&lt;/a&gt; in your design. This is a weak spot where a crack can form. If strength is needed and the fillet won't interfere with the design, it's definitely something you should include with your part. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11242" LastActivityDate="2019-06-15T21:15:25.947" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10274" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10271" CreationDate="2019-06-15T21:55:46.107" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Depending on what material you print it it most likely a good idea to let the hotend cool down before shutting off the printer (fan). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example if you shut down the printer right after you print a PLA part, at 190 - 220 degrees Celsius, your hot end will still be that hot and will suffer heat creep without the fan running. The next time you fire up your printer the hotend will be jammed and you will need to clear it before starting a print. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is obviously situation dependent but in most cases you should let your hot end get below the TG (glass transition temperature) of the material before turning off the printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11097" LastEditorUserId="11097" LastEditDate="2019-06-15T22:02:10.220" LastActivityDate="2019-06-15T22:02:10.220" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10275" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10248" CreationDate="2019-06-16T06:35:39.110" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I experienced the same with 4.1. Everything went back to normal after going back to 4.0 despite that all settings were identical as far as I could see. I compared the two g-code files using a simple file comparison tool. They were very different, hardly anything was the same. I still need to figure out what they mean. The model and thus the g-code files are far to large to go through. So, I will have to use a simple and small model to start unraveling what those differences mean.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16772" LastActivityDate="2019-06-16T06:35:39.110" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10276" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-06-16T09:50:38.257" Score="6" ViewCount="65442" Body="&lt;p&gt;The print is very solid except for the 4 walls.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the top, I can slide a paper down to the bottom. This is ONLY between the walls, the rest of the print is solid. The filament is PLA 1.75&amp;nbsp;mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But the bottom is solid, no gaps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have checked the usual problems on Ultimaker troubleshooting photo gallery, but I can find anything similar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any advice to fix this would be very welcome.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FAJNf.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FAJNf.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;3d print wall separation&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Print settings:&lt;/em&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LvRFW.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LvRFW.png&quot; alt=&quot;cura settings 1&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pYMH2.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pYMH2.png&quot; alt=&quot;cura settings 2&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cnUB0.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cnUB0.png&quot; alt=&quot;cura settings 3&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12878" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-06-19T13:19:35.967" LastActivityDate="2023-10-04T09:58:56.523" Title="How to fix wall separation in 3D prints (gaps in between wall perimeters)?" Tags="|print-quality|ultimaker-cura|3d-design|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10278" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10272" CreationDate="2019-06-16T11:16:43.170" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;Fillets in X-Y plane (i.e. between two vertical surfaces) work great for 3D prints and increase the strength a lot. They usually also improve the print quality, because the print head can keep a constant speed in the curve instead of slowing down to a sharp corner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However fillets that extend in Z direction (i.e. between a vertical and a horizontal surface) suffer from layer artifacts. Sometimes they can look worse than a sharp corner would. While they do still increase the strength significantly, they are not as strong as similarly sized fillets in X-Y plane are.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16776" LastActivityDate="2019-06-16T11:16:43.170" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10279" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10200" CreationDate="2019-06-16T12:24:36.830" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;This question is really a legal question, and could apply to any cloned parts/devices rather than being 3D printer specific, and a generic counterfeit consumer goods based question should be asked on &lt;a href=&quot;https://law.stackexchange.com&quot;&gt;SE.Law&lt;/a&gt;. However, as you rightly state, a lot of 3D printers from China may contain (whether knowingly sourced or not by the manufacturer&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;) counterfeit parts, be that ICs, hotend designs (i.e. E3D clones), controllers (i.e. Arduino Mega boards or stand-alone non-RAMPS Arduino shield boards),or what have you. As such this is an issue that may be faced by any unwittingly innocent consumer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Prefacing any statement with &lt;em&gt;I am not a lawyer&lt;/em&gt; (IANAL), these sections from Wikipedia entry on &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Counterfeit_consumer_goods&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Counterfeit consumer goods&lt;/a&gt; might help answer your question:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Counterfeit_consumer_goods#Growing_problem&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Growing problem&lt;/a&gt; as will this &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Counterfeit_consumer_goods#United_States_2&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Enforcement- US&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In short, if they have a mind to, Customs could seize it at the border; if your house was raided (for whatever reason) law enforcement could seize your printer (although this seems unlikely, unless they were explicitly raiding your house for knock-offs); &lt;em&gt;and&lt;/em&gt; (more worryingly) there is a proposal to fine those people who purchase knock-offs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course this is not the only legal issue that may be encountered when buying Chinese devices/parts from less-than-reputable suppliers o eBay or AliExpress, for example, what if:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;it breaks and what legal recourse do you have as a consumer; &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;it produces a poor quality or dangerous print; &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;it explodes, what legal recourse do you have; &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;and so on, etc. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These questions lead into rather murky grey and legally complex areas, and really would need to be dealt with by a legal professional (solicitor/lawyer).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Other Stack Exchange posts worth reading&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These deal more with quality not legality but see &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/4209/can-cheap-hotend-parts-sourced-from-china-actually-produce-good-prints&quot;&gt;Can cheap hotend parts sourced from China actually produce good prints?&lt;/a&gt;, and;  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Vaguely related - &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/409/what-are-the-pros-and-cons-of-collecting-parts-yourself-versus-getting-a-diy-ki/4218#4218&quot;&gt;What are the pros and cons of collecting parts yourself, versus getting a DIY kit and then modifying it?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Also, which respect to the electronics: &#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://arduino.stackexchange.com/questions/55214/some-arduino-components-seem-ridiculously-cheap/55234#55234&quot;&gt;Some Arduino components seem ridiculously cheap&lt;/a&gt; and;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://arduino.stackexchange.com/questions/71/compatibility-between-arduino-and-arduino-clones/76&quot;&gt;Compatibility between Arduino and Arduino clones&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://arduino.stackexchange.com/questions/23736/arduino-clone-a-request-for-the-usb-device-descriptor-failed/66672#66672&quot;&gt;This answer&lt;/a&gt; to &lt;a href=&quot;https://arduino.stackexchange.com/questions/23736/arduino-clone-a-request-for-the-usb-device-descriptor-failed&quot;&gt;Arduino Clone - A request for the USB device descriptor failed&lt;/a&gt; interestingly points out that if the device is licensed appropriately (CC, open-source, etc.) then they may not be any legal issues at all related to cloning (but not counterfeiting - See &lt;a href=&quot;https://arduino.stackexchange.com/questions/294/whats-the-difference-between-a-clone-and-a-counterfeit-arduino&quot;&gt;What's the difference between a clone and a counterfeit Arduino?&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; A bone fide low end oscilloscope manufacturer got stung by a batch of fake regulator ICs just last year, see &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.eevblog.com/forum/projects/jye-tech-dso150-oscilloscope-troubles/msg2315163/#msg2315163&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Re: JYE Tech DSO150 oscilloscope troubles&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4762" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2019-06-29T07:14:42.457" LastActivityDate="2019-06-29T07:14:42.457" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10280" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10157" CreationDate="2019-06-16T14:54:17.160" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I thought it better if I included the Cura profile settings, pointed to in &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10157/cura-settings-for-fabrikator-mini-v2-turnigy-or-malyan-m100/10166#10166&quot;&gt;cmm's answer&lt;/a&gt;, here, in case of link death:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;[profile]&#xA;layer_height = 0.2&#xA;wall_thickness = 0.8&#xA;retraction_enable = True&#xA;solid_layer_thickness = 1.2&#xA;fill_density = 20&#xA;nozzle_size = 0.4&#xA;print_speed = 60&#xA;print_temperature = 200&#xA;print_temperature2 = 0&#xA;print_temperature3 = 0&#xA;print_temperature4 = 0&#xA;print_temperature5 = 0&#xA;print_bed_temperature = 60&#xA;support = Touching buildplate&#xA;platform_adhesion = Brim&#xA;support_dual_extrusion = Both&#xA;wipe_tower = False&#xA;wipe_tower_volume = 15&#xA;ooze_shield = False&#xA;filament_diameter = 1.75&#xA;filament_diameter2 = 0&#xA;filament_diameter3 = 0&#xA;filament_diameter4 = 0&#xA;filament_diameter5 = 0&#xA;filament_flow = 100&#xA;retraction_speed = 30&#xA;retraction_amount = 3&#xA;retraction_dual_amount = 16.5&#xA;retraction_min_travel = 1.5&#xA;retraction_combing = All&#xA;retraction_minimal_extrusion = 0.02&#xA;retraction_hop = 0.0&#xA;bottom_thickness = 0.3&#xA;layer0_width_factor = 100&#xA;object_sink = 0.0&#xA;overlap_dual = 0.15&#xA;travel_speed = 100&#xA;bottom_layer_speed = 20&#xA;infill_speed = 0.0&#xA;solidarea_speed = 0.0&#xA;inset0_speed = 20&#xA;insetx_speed = 0&#xA;cool_min_layer_time = 3&#xA;fan_enabled = True&#xA;skirt_line_count = 2&#xA;skirt_gap = 4.0&#xA;skirt_minimal_length = 150.0&#xA;fan_full_height = 0.5&#xA;fan_speed = 100&#xA;fan_speed_max = 100&#xA;cool_min_feedrate = 10&#xA;cool_head_lift = False&#xA;solid_top = True&#xA;solid_bottom = True&#xA;fill_overlap = 15&#xA;perimeter_before_infill = False&#xA;support_type = Lines&#xA;support_angle = 60&#xA;support_fill_rate = 15&#xA;support_xy_distance = 0.7&#xA;support_z_distance = 0.15&#xA;spiralize = False&#xA;simple_mode = False&#xA;brim_line_count = 5&#xA;raft_margin = 5.0&#xA;raft_line_spacing = 3.0&#xA;raft_base_thickness = 0.3&#xA;raft_base_linewidth = 1.0&#xA;raft_interface_thickness = 0.27&#xA;raft_interface_linewidth = 0.4&#xA;raft_airgap_all = 0.0&#xA;raft_airgap = 0.22&#xA;raft_surface_layers = 2&#xA;raft_surface_thickness = 0.27&#xA;raft_surface_linewidth = 0.4&#xA;fix_horrible_union_all_type_a = True&#xA;fix_horrible_union_all_type_b = False&#xA;fix_horrible_use_open_bits = False&#xA;fix_horrible_extensive_stitching = False&#xA;plugin_config = &#xA;object_center_x = -1&#xA;object_center_y = -1&#xA;&#xA;[alterations]&#xA;start.gcode = ;Sliced at: {day} {date} {time}&#xA;    ;Basic settings: Layer height: {layer_height} Walls: {wall_thickness} Fill: {fill_density}&#xA;    ;Print time: {print_time}&#xA;    ;Filament used: {filament_amount}m {filament_weight}g&#xA;    ;Filament cost: {filament_cost}&#xA;    ;M190 S{print_bed_temperature} ;Uncomment to add your own bed temperature line&#xA;    ;M109 S{print_temperature} ;Uncomment to add your own temperature line&#xA;    G21        ;metric values&#xA;    G90        ;absolute positioning&#xA;    M82        ;set extruder to absolute mode&#xA;    M107       ;start with the fan off&#xA;    G28 X0 Y0  ;move X/Y to min endstops&#xA;    G28 Z0     ;move Z to min endstops&#xA;    G1 Z0.2 F{travel_speed} ;move the platform down 15mm&#xA;    G92 E0                  ;zero the extruded length&#xA;    G1 X75 E10 F{travel_speed}       ;extrude 10mm of feed stock&#xA;    G92 E0                  ;zero the extruded length again&#xA;    G1 F{travel_speed}&#xA;end.gcode = ;End GCode&#xA;    M104 S0                     ;extruder heater off&#xA;    M140 S0                     ;heated bed heater off (if you have it)&#xA;    G91                                    ;relative positioning&#xA;    G1 E-1 F300                            ;retract the filament a bit before lifting the nozzle, to release some of the pressure&#xA;    G1 Z+0.5 E-5 X-20 Y-20 F{travel_speed} ;move Z up a bit and retract filament even more&#xA;    G28 X0 Y0                              ;move X/Y to min endstops, so the head is out of the way&#xA;    M84                         ;steppers off&#xA;    G90                         ;absolute positioning&#xA;    ;{profile_string}&#xA;start2.gcode = ;Sliced at: {day} {date} {time}&#xA;    ;Basic settings: Layer height: {layer_height} Walls: {wall_thickness} Fill: {fill_density}&#xA;    ;Print time: {print_time}&#xA;    ;Filament used: {filament_amount}m {filament_weight}g&#xA;    ;Filament cost: {filament_cost}&#xA;    ;M190 S{print_bed_temperature} ;Uncomment to add your own bed temperature line&#xA;    ;M104 S{print_temperature} ;Uncomment to add your own temperature line&#xA;    ;M109 T1 S{print_temperature2} ;Uncomment to add your own temperature line&#xA;    ;M109 T0 S{print_temperature} ;Uncomment to add your own temperature line&#xA;    G21        ;metric values&#xA;    G90        ;absolute positioning&#xA;    M107       ;start with the fan off&#xA;    G28 X0 Y0  ;move X/Y to min endstops&#xA;    G28 Z0     ;move Z to min endstops&#xA;    G1 Z0.2 F{travel_speed} ;move the platform down 15mm&#xA;    T1                      ;Switch to the 2nd extruder&#xA;    G92 E0                  ;zero the extruded length&#xA;    G1 X75 E10 F{travel_speed}       ;extrude 10mm of feed stock&#xA;    G92 E0                  ;zero the extruded length again&#xA;    G1 F200 E-{retraction_dual_amount}&#xA;    T0                      ;Switch to the first extruder&#xA;    G92 E0                  ;zero the extruded length&#xA;    G1 X75 E10 F{travel_speed}       ;extrude 10mm of feed stock&#xA;    G92 E0                  ;zero the extruded length again&#xA;    G1 F{travel_speed}&#xA;end2.gcode = ;End GCode&#xA;    M104 T0 S0                     ;extruder heater off&#xA;    M104 T1 S0                     ;extruder heater off&#xA;    M140 S0                     ;heated bed heater off (if you have it)&#xA;    G91                                    ;relative positioning&#xA;    G1 E-1 F300                            ;retract the filament a bit before lifting the nozzle, to release some of the pressure&#xA;    G1 Z+0.5 E-5 X-20 Y-20 F{travel_speed} ;move Z up a bit and retract filament even more&#xA;    G28 X0 Y0                              ;move X/Y to min endstops, so the head is out of the way&#xA;    M84                         ;steppers off&#xA;    G90                         ;absolute positioning&#xA;    ;{profile_string}&#xA;start3.gcode = ;Sliced at: {day} {date} {time}&#xA;    ;Basic settings: Layer height: {layer_height} Walls: {wall_thickness} Fill: {fill_density}&#xA;    ;Print time: {print_time}&#xA;    ;Filament used: {filament_amount}m {filament_weight}g&#xA;    ;Filament cost: {filament_cost}&#xA;    ;M190 S{print_bed_temperature} ;Uncomment to add your own bed temperature line&#xA;    ;M104 S{print_temperature} ;Uncomment to add your own temperature line&#xA;    ;M109 T1 S{print_temperature2} ;Uncomment to add your own temperature line&#xA;    ;M109 T0 S{print_temperature} ;Uncomment to add your own temperature line&#xA;    G21        ;metric values&#xA;    G90        ;absolute positioning&#xA;    M107       ;start with the fan off&#xA;    G28 X0 Y0  ;move X/Y to min endstops&#xA;    G28 Z0     ;move Z to min endstops&#xA;    G1 Z0.2 F{travel_speed} ;move the platform down 15mm&#xA;    T2                      ;Switch to the 3rd extruder&#xA;    G92 E0                  ;zero the extruded length&#xA;    G1 X75 E10 F{travel_speed}       ;extrude 10mm of feed stock&#xA;    G92 E0                  ;zero the extruded length again&#xA;    G1 F200 E-{retraction_dual_amount}&#xA;    T1                      ;Switch to the 2nd extruder&#xA;    G92 E0                  ;zero the extruded length&#xA;    G1 X75 E10 F{travel_speed}       ;extrude 10mm of feed stock&#xA;    G92 E0                  ;zero the extruded length again&#xA;    G1 F200 E-{retraction_dual_amount}&#xA;    T0                      ;Switch to the first extruder&#xA;    G92 E0                  ;zero the extruded length&#xA;    G1 X75 E10 F{travel_speed}       ;extrude 10mm of feed stock&#xA;    G92 E0                  ;zero the extruded length again&#xA;    G1 F{travel_speed}&#xA;    ;Put printing message on LCD screen&#xA;    M117 Printing...&#xA;end3.gcode = ;End GCode&#xA;    M104 T0 S0                     ;extruder heater off&#xA;    M104 T1 S0                     ;extruder heater off&#xA;    M104 T2 S0                     ;extruder heater off&#xA;    M140 S0                     ;heated bed heater off (if you have it)&#xA;    G91                                    ;relative positioning&#xA;    G1 E-1 F300                            ;retract the filament a bit before lifting the nozzle, to release some of the pressure&#xA;    G1 Z+0.5 E-5 X-20 Y-20 F{travel_speed} ;move Z up a bit and retract filament even more&#xA;    G28 X0 Y0                              ;move X/Y to min endstops, so the head is out of the way&#xA;    M84                         ;steppers off&#xA;    G90                         ;absolute positioning&#xA;    ;{profile_string}&#xA;start4.gcode = ;Sliced at: {day} {date} {time}&#xA;    ;Basic settings: Layer height: {layer_height} Walls: {wall_thickness} Fill: {fill_density}&#xA;    ;Print time: {print_time}&#xA;    ;Filament used: {filament_amount}m {filament_weight}g&#xA;    ;Filament cost: {filament_cost}&#xA;    ;M190 S{print_bed_temperature} ;Uncomment to add your own bed temperature line&#xA;    ;M104 S{print_temperature} ;Uncomment to add your own temperature line&#xA;    ;M109 T2 S{print_temperature2} ;Uncomment to add your own temperature line&#xA;    ;M109 T1 S{print_temperature2} ;Uncomment to add your own temperature line&#xA;    ;M109 T0 S{print_temperature} ;Uncomment to add your own temperature line&#xA;    G21        ;metric values&#xA;    G90        ;absolute positioning&#xA;    M107       ;start with the fan off&#xA;    G28 X0 Y0  ;move X/Y to min endstops&#xA;    G28 Z0     ;move Z to min endstops&#xA;    G1 Z0.2 F{travel_speed} ;move the platform down 15mm&#xA;    T3                      ;Switch to the 4th extruder&#xA;    G92 E0                  ;zero the extruded length&#xA;    G1 X75 E10 F{travel_speed}       ;extrude 10mm of feed stock&#xA;    G92 E0                  ;zero the extruded length again&#xA;    G1 F200 E-{retraction_dual_amount}&#xA;    T2                      ;Switch to the 3rd extruder&#xA;    G92 E0                  ;zero the extruded length&#xA;    G1 X75 E10 F{travel_speed}       ;extrude 10mm of feed stock&#xA;    G92 E0                  ;zero the extruded length again&#xA;    G1 F200 E-{retraction_dual_amount}&#xA;    T1                      ;Switch to the 2nd extruder&#xA;    G92 E0                  ;zero the extruded length&#xA;    G1 X75 E10 F{travel_speed}       ;extrude 10mm of feed stock&#xA;    G92 E0                  ;zero the extruded length again&#xA;    G1 F200 E-{retraction_dual_amount}&#xA;    T0                      ;Switch to the first extruder&#xA;    G92 E0                  ;zero the extruded length&#xA;    G1 X75 E10 F{travel_speed}       ;extrude 10mm of feed stock&#xA;    G92 E0                  ;zero the extruded length again&#xA;    G1 F{travel_speed}&#xA;    ;Put printing message on LCD screen&#xA;    M117 Printing...&#xA;end4.gcode = ;End GCode&#xA;    M104 T0 S0                     ;extruder heater off&#xA;    M104 T1 S0                     ;extruder heater off&#xA;    M104 T2 S0                     ;extruder heater off&#xA;    M104 T3 S0                     ;extruder heater off&#xA;    M140 S0                     ;heated bed heater off (if you have it)&#xA;    G91                                    ;relative positioning&#xA;    G1 E-1 F300                            ;retract the filament a bit before lifting the nozzle, to release some of the pressure&#xA;    G1 Z+0.5 E-5 X-20 Y-20 F{travel_speed} ;move Z up a bit and retract filament even more&#xA;    G28 X0 Y0                              ;move X/Y to min endstops, so the head is out of the way&#xA;    M84                         ;steppers off&#xA;    G90                         ;absolute positioning&#xA;    ;{profile_string}&#xA;support_start.gcode = &#xA;support_end.gcode = &#xA;cool_start.gcode = &#xA;cool_end.gcode = &#xA;replace.csv = &#xA;preswitchextruder.gcode = ;Switch between the current extruder and the next extruder, when printing with multiple extruders.&#xA;    ;This code is added before the T(n)&#xA;postswitchextruder.gcode = ;Switch between the current extruder and the next extruder, when printing with multiple extruders.&#xA;    ;This code is added after the T(n)&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note these are some customer uploads, from the HobbyKing page for &lt;a href=&quot;https://hobbyking.com/en_us/mini-fabrikator-v2-3d-printer-us-plug.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Mini Fabrikator V2 3D Printer - Silver (US Plug)&lt;/a&gt;, under the &lt;strong&gt;Upload Files&lt;/strong&gt; tab, click the &lt;a href=&quot;https://cdn-global-hk.hobbyking.com/media/file/c/u/cura_profile_3.zip&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;code&gt;CURA PROFILE_3.ZIP&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/a&gt; zip file.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4762" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2019-06-17T12:19:55.470" LastActivityDate="2019-06-17T12:19:55.470" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10281" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10271" CreationDate="2019-06-16T15:47:38.093" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;That option you are referring to, is meant to manually shut down power to the heated bed and hotend, there is no timed cool down period other than you timing it. This is a handy option if you fiddled with either the bed or the hotend; e.g. to insert new filament.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A cool down period can be very useful depending on the printer. Those cold-end cooling fans usually are very noisy, so people cut them of (that is not always possible/wise, but is being done out there), disable them after printing or shutting down power of the printer as a whole. Some type of hotends are prone to have heat creep up the hotend and  soften the filament so that it can clog up the hotend. I've seen this happen on Ultimaker printers where the cooling fan was not spinning because some fine strings where sucked up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To minimize the noise level of such cold end cooling fans you can put them on a relay switch and have e.g. OctoPrint schedule the print to be on for e.g. 2 minutes after a print failed or finished, works perfectly, and then you have your cooling down schedule/period.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-06-16T17:35:23.897" LastActivityDate="2019-06-16T17:35:23.897" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10282" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7315" CreationDate="2019-06-16T17:19:59.703" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;While such temperatures may be OK for extruder motor itself (and probably for extruder body, since it is printed in PETG/ABS), but it can be dangerous for the filament that you are using to print your models. Heat from extruder motor can creep through shaft to Bondtech gears and start to pre-melt filament. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;60&amp;nbsp;°C is enough to soften PLA. Your filament may warp or melt just above heatsink, jamming, and clogging the extruder body.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What you can try to do:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Open or remove enclosure;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/company-us/all-3m-products/~/3M-Thermally-Conductive-Epoxy-Adhesive-TC-2707/?N=5002385+3294001761&amp;amp;rt=rud&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Glue a generic heatsink on your extruder motor&lt;/a&gt; with some thermally conductive adhesive or epoxy;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2975582&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Add an active cooling fan for your extruder motor&lt;/a&gt; (or for heatsink of your extruder motor). You can power it from Prusa PSU (then you will need 24&amp;nbsp;V fan), or plug additional PSU for fans and lighting;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://prusacommunity.com/to-the-moons-and-back/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Upgrade extruder motor to LDO / Moons motor&lt;/a&gt;. These run about 10&amp;nbsp;°C cooler than stock extruder motor;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.bondtech.se/en/product/prusa-i3-mk2-5-mk3-extruder-upgrade/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Upgrade to Bondtech extruder&lt;/a&gt;. Bondtech extruder features 3:1 gearing ratio, and can be run with lower current (e.g. less heat). Also Bondtech extruder uses plastic gears, so heat can no longer easily move from extruder motor to filament.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14259" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2019-06-16T17:38:58.777" LastActivityDate="2019-06-16T17:38:58.777" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10283" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10276" CreationDate="2019-06-16T20:17:22.027" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've experienced this too, especially with flex modified PLA filament. For that, fixing underextrusion and increasing temperature made it go away. Sadly Cura has no option to overlap walls slightly (if printed in the right order, this could be done without affecting dimensional accuracy) except possibly the outer one, so you really have to get extrusion rate calibrated right or this will happen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2019-06-16T20:17:22.027" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10284" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-06-16T20:56:37.297" Score="2" ViewCount="2242" Body="&lt;p&gt;My monoprice printer was working; I then tried to format the SD card on a Mac, then it stopped working. I have now tried three different SD cards after formatting on a Windows PC, and still nothing works. Are there supposed to be files on the SD card itself like some kind of root files?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16781" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-12-10T05:58:23.877" LastActivityDate="2019-12-10T05:58:23.877" Title="Monoprice printer: no files found on SD card" Tags="|sd|monoprice-select-mini|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2019-06-23T09:18:17.930" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10286" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10284" CreationDate="2019-06-17T11:19:31.023" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've no idea why 3D printers don't like SD cards formatted by operating system utilities, but they don't. Use &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.sdcard.org/downloads/formatter/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;SD Memory Card Formatter&lt;/a&gt; to format your memory cards. Unfortunately, you have probably lost any data that was on the original SD card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The SD cards that are supplied with 3D printers typically contain documentation, test files, and device drivers. However, these files do not need to be present for the correct operation of the printer. All that is needed is a correctly-formatted SD card containing the G-code files that you want to print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3953" LastEditorUserId="3953" LastEditDate="2019-06-17T16:21:54.107" LastActivityDate="2019-06-17T16:21:54.107" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10287" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10010" CreationDate="2019-06-17T13:12:27.190" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is too long for a good comment but may fall short of being a true answer.  If the mods prefer, I can recast it as a set of comments.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are several differences between using a GPIO pin as a binary data pin and using one as a PWM pin, and the behavior depends on several factors:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is the PWM pin a native PWN pin with hardware support, or is the PWM function being implemented with software?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Has the PWM pin been initialized as a PWM pin?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What processor type is used?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What is the PWM frequency?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is the pin a TTL compatible output [0.4 V low, 2.7 V high]?  CMOS?  What Vcc?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;For that matter, what is the CPU?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As @0scar points out, the fan control pin is typically not connected directly to the fan, but instead uses a FET to provide isolation and switch more current than the output pin can provide.  Depending on the circuit, it may be inverting or non-inverting.  M42 Pxx S255 may be full on or full off.  When the fan is controlled through the fan G-code, the firmware can take possible inversion into account.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You haven't said what the input circuit to the laser involves.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It is active high or active low?  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Does it require a pulse train to keep the output on, or is it&#xA;static?  I don't know how yours works, but I could imagine designing&#xA;a laser module to require a continuous stream of pulses to keep the&#xA;beam active so that a failure in the drive circuit could not create&#xA;a safety hazard.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is it a TTL compatible input [0.7 low, 2.4 high]?  CMOS?  What Vcc?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is it something else?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Laser etching is generally on-topic for this group given the close association with 3D printing tech, but people are less familiar with the &quot;standard systems&quot;.  For some of us to be helpful (especially for me to be helpful) we need more of the circuitry and firmware context.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2082" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-06-17T13:18:22.447" LastActivityDate="2019-06-17T13:18:22.447" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10288" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11254" CreationDate="2019-06-17T13:50:30.493" Score="6" ViewCount="18071" Body="&lt;p&gt;We've been doing some printing with PETG filament on Ender 3 Pro printer and the result were awful:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1k0ej.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1k0ej.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Overview of failed PETG prints&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are settings we used:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Extruder: 240&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bed: ~70&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C (&amp;plusmn; 10&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Speed: 80&amp;nbsp;mm/sec&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a few types of problems that we had:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Initially filament did not stick to the bed&lt;/strong&gt; - those 3 items in the middle of the picture are example of this issue. This got fixed by increasing temperature of bed to 80&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;At some point a piece would get dis-attached from the bed and would move around together with the extruder around&lt;/strong&gt; - two prints in the upper right corner of the picture were cancelled for this reason.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Models are very rough, like a cheaply made snowball&lt;/strong&gt; - that tiny model in the upper left is suppose to be a cattle-bell. Could you tell?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Additional info&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Filament that we used indicated&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;extruder temperature 230-240&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;printing speed 40-90&amp;nbsp;mm/sec&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;no info about bed temperature &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Question(s):&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What are some optimal, tried and tested options for printing PETG? &lt;sub&gt;(Temperatures, speed, etc)&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What are some caveats/difficulties of working with PETG to look out for? &lt;sub&gt;(For example, I've read that PETG likes slower speeds. Is that true?)&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is it possible that the model of 3D printer does not work well with this type of filament? &lt;sub&gt;(I don't have much experience printing so I can't know)&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16769" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-06-17T18:43:16.323" LastActivityDate="2022-05-05T22:11:22.023" Title="How to work with PETG? Settings, caveats, etc" Tags="|creality-ender-3|petg|" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10289" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10288" CreationDate="2019-06-17T14:02:38.890" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;Slow down! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;80 mm/s is much too fast for PETG. Try 45 or 50 mm/s instead, even for infill, supports, and other less-visible areas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12562" LastActivityDate="2019-06-17T14:02:38.890" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10290" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10276" CreationDate="2019-06-17T14:17:03.117" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Look for the &lt;strong&gt;horizontal expansion&lt;/strong&gt; setting in Cura. By default it should be zero. The description includes this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Positive values can help compensate for too big holes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &quot;holes&quot; here includes these gaps. You can set it to something very small (ie: .01 or .03, probably no more than .05) and that will likely be enough to get it to fill in those gaps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately, I only have a little direct personal experience with this setting, hence the probably/likely weasel words, and I can't give much real guidance on exactly how big or small you can go with this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12562" LastActivityDate="2019-06-17T14:17:03.117" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10291" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10288" CreationDate="2019-06-17T14:42:40.840" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;None of your prints look like they are sticking well to the bed.  You didn't specify the bed material.  For many bed types, you might have success with Aqua Net hair spray.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Like any material, if it isn't solidly sticking to the bed, the print won't be good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This probably is not related to your problem, but you may need to reduce the drive gear pressure or &quot;pinch&quot; of the filament.  PETG seems to be softer than PLA or ABS, and I've had problems where it was rolled out like pie crust by the filament feed gear to the point where it would not feed.  Reducing pressure, reducing retraction, and increasing the minimum extrusion between retractions helped.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2082" LastActivityDate="2019-06-17T14:42:40.840" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10292" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4084" CreationDate="2019-06-17T15:52:20.397" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm going to set this up for my printer: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2148191&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;3D Printer Safety Shutdown - Smoke Detector&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8uhbM.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;3D Printer Safety Shutdown - Smoke Detector- Photo&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8uhbM.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;3D Printer Safety Shutdown - Smoke Detector - Photo&quot; title=&quot;3D Printer Safety Shutdown - Smoke Detector- Photo&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nk1BG.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;3D Printer Safety Shutdown - Smoke Detector - Diagram&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nk1BG.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;3D Printer Safety Shutdown - Smoke Detector - Diagram&quot; title=&quot;3D Printer Safety Shutdown - Smoke Detector - Diagram&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looks like a great solution for preventing fires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16786" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2019-06-17T17:22:40.157" LastActivityDate="2019-06-17T17:22:40.157" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10293" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7315" CreationDate="2019-06-17T15:58:33.267" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've run my Prusa3D i3m3s for 50 hour prints.  My motors get hot-ish but on my instance of the machine, they are not too hot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2082" LastActivityDate="2019-06-17T15:58:33.267" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10294" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-06-17T16:24:30.433" Score="2" ViewCount="449" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an AM8 with an MKS GEN 1.4 board with a Bowden extruder at the moment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I would like to do is to make my menus a bit more responsive, similar to what the guy at Lokster Space has done with ver 1.1.5 of Marlin with a tutorial how to do so. I've been through the file &lt;code&gt;ultralcd.cpp&lt;/code&gt; but nothing matches what the tutorial is telling you to change.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The following link is the details for the upgrade: &lt;a href=&quot;http://lokspace.eu/how-to-make-the-marlin-menus-more-responsive-on-anet-a8/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;How to make the Marlin menus more responsive on Anet A8&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could anyone please help with my situation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16787" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2019-06-21T10:11:25.893" LastActivityDate="2019-06-27T06:24:28.643" Title="How to make menus more responsive in Marlin 1.1.9" Tags="|marlin|full-graphic-smart-controller|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10295" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7315" CreationDate="2019-06-17T17:30:17.360" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;50 °C feels very warm, 60 °C feels hot, 80 °C is painful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I measured the temperature of the steppers on a Prusa mk3last week.  They were all around 45..50 °C, except the extruder stepper which runs around 55..57 °C. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The temperature is stable like that. Letting them cool down is useless, because they would quickly go back to these temperatures after starting the next print. Stepper motors tend to dissipate more power when they stopped or slow compared to when they run fast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would not worry about it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5683" LastActivityDate="2019-06-17T17:30:17.360" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10296" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10189" CreationDate="2019-06-17T21:23:44.760" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I could not find a schematic of the Pololu A4988 stepper motor driver, but I did find a photo of the board that includes the ground planes for both the motor and logic.  On the reverse side of the board, they were not connected.  They should not be connected on the driver cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Instead, all the motor ground lines should be brought together at a point, and the Motor supply ground connected to that point.  The V-motor should also be run radially to each stepper driver and connected to the V-motor supply.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There should be a single connection point between the motor ground and logic ground.  No motor current should flow through any logic ground wire or circuit board trace.  The motors are switching high voltages and high currents.  If these currents pass through a logic ground line, they will introduce voltage spikes into the logic which can result in unexpected operation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The 100&amp;nbsp;&amp;mu;F capacitor in the schematic is good for supplying low frequency energy needs, but it should be paralleled with a 1&amp;nbsp;&amp;mu;F capacitor and a 0.01&amp;nbsp;&amp;mu;F capacitor placed as close to the radial feed points as is practical.  A larger capacitor tends to have higher leakage inductance, which limits the high-frequency response.  A range of capacitors in parallel will perform better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2082" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-06-17T21:30:10.327" LastActivityDate="2019-06-17T21:30:10.327" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10297" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5530" CreationDate="2019-06-17T21:33:09.910" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&quot;Inductive kickback&quot; from motor coils is caused by the inductance of the coils and the wiring.  It is not some strange effect.  Inductance is charged with current, just as capacitance is changed with voltage.  Most bipolar motor drivers use an H-bridge on the output.  By driving the H-bridge correctly, the driver can continue to provide a path for the motor current when it is no longer applying voltage, such as by connecting both wires of a motor to ground.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although some may find it counter-intuitive, connecting the Vmot side of the motor to Gmot, while the other side remains at Gmot, keeps current flowing in the coil more smoothly and with lower losses.  The voltage across the motor coil is near zero, so there is little voltage trying to change the motor current.  If the coil is undriven and subject to the clamping diodes, the voltage across the motor will me much higher, and the current will stop faster.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The higher ripple current in the motor increases the coil heating, may increase audible noise, and decreases the efficiency of the drive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2082" LastActivityDate="2019-06-17T21:33:09.910" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10298" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10389" CreationDate="2019-06-17T21:50:17.157" Score="3" ViewCount="23845" Body="&lt;p&gt;When printing objects higher than approximately 8-10&amp;nbsp;cm, sometimes nozzle hits the printed model and knocks over it. After 7-8 hours of printing that's really annoying. I'm using Creality Ender 3 Pro with Ultimaker Cura. How can I avoid this problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a note; it happens with thick, wide models without support structure too. I'm using Ender 3 Pro's stock magnetic bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are some photos of printed model.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0hIqg.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Failed print - photo#1&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0hIqg.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Failed print - photo#1&quot; title=&quot;Failed print - photo#1&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HNiG4.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Failed print - photo#2&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HNiG4.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Failed print - photo#2&quot; title=&quot;Failed print - photo#2&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Y841k.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Failed print - photo#3&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Y841k.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Failed print - photo#3&quot; title=&quot;Failed print - photo#3&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I use Esun PLA+, the part was on baseplate without any loss of contact. It was like one layer missed its coordinates and then all corrupted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think it's not related with bed adhesion because for example for this model, it didn't knock over the model.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is no roof for the model, I think it doesn't need any support structure. &lt;a href=&quot;https://cdn.thingiverse.com/renders/35/b4/84/0c/45/74441e4966d7cc6caac1adbd2795375f_preview_featured.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Here&lt;/a&gt; you can see the expected finished one: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/U1nzR.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Expected finished print&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/U1nzR.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Expected finished print&quot; title=&quot;Expected finished print&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16714" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2019-08-31T08:03:44.483" LastActivityDate="2023-01-16T02:42:07.753" Title="How to avoid nozzle from hitting the model?" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|creality-ender-3|nozzle|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10299" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-06-17T22:08:50.987" Score="1" ViewCount="58" Body="&lt;p&gt;As a newbie, I have done some Fusion 360 tutorials and recognize I made a mistake in the initial dimensions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Aside from starting the entire sketch over again, can I just modify the (beginning) rectangle dimension?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16791" LastActivityDate="2019-06-17T23:00:40.940" Title="Must I start over if I change a dimension in Fusion 360" Tags="|fusion360|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10300" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10299" CreationDate="2019-06-17T23:00:40.940" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you enabled the history, you can easily go back in time and change the dimension in the sketch and then go back where you were. It would be even more elegant if you do not use fixed valued dimensions in the sketch, you can use parameters you define yourself and assign them to certain dimensions to create parametric designs. These values can be changed at any time to see your final design adapt to those changed parameters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2019-06-17T23:00:40.940" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10301" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10298" CreationDate="2019-06-18T00:35:59.070" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are options in Cura to avoid that the extruder hovers over printed parts when traveling. There is also an option to lift Z axis while traveling. Those options are hidden by default. You can only enable them in advanced settings mode.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16792" LastEditorUserId="11242" LastEditDate="2019-06-18T10:43:57.140" LastActivityDate="2019-06-18T10:43:57.140" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10302" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10288" CreationDate="2019-06-18T04:36:04.617" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Ender 3 can print PETG alright - in some regards, such as warping and adhesion issues, even better than PLA. But you do need the right settings. 230-240&amp;nbsp;°C is too low, especially at the extremely high speed you're trying - you're going to get serious under extrusion and likely stringing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My PETG settings are 80&amp;nbsp;°C bed, 250&amp;nbsp;°C hotend, and &lt;strike&gt;normal 30/60&amp;nbsp;mm/s speeds&lt;/strike&gt; 40&amp;nbsp;mm/s print speed for everything, and lowering fan speed to 40&amp;nbsp;% or lower (ideally off entirely unless you find you need it). Full speed fan &lt;strong&gt;will prevent bonding&lt;/strong&gt;, and is not needed to avoid warping like it is with PLA.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also make sure you have the first layer set to print slowly (30&amp;nbsp;mm/s or less), and make sure your gap between the nozzle and bed isn't too wide. You also need the nozzle to be primed well before the actual print starts. A skirt can do this but I prefer custom start gcode to print a thick priming line at the edge of the bed. Mine is based on Ultimaker Cura's default but only goes one direction rather than reversing and moves a lot slower.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastEditorUserId="11157" LastEditDate="2020-05-26T18:53:49.563" LastActivityDate="2020-05-26T18:53:49.563" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10303" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10304" CreationDate="2019-06-18T17:52:56.797" Score="0" ViewCount="1358" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've recently bought myself a preassembled Prusa i3 MK3S printed and made my first projects. One of them was making a cup with my name on it. I want to use it to drink tea, water etc. I know, however, that I need to chose my filament wisely, as using the wrong one might be unsafe. I know that PLA for example is Polylactic acid which is a safe substance and occurs naturally in our body. Another thing is the dye, which can is a chemical substance I know nothing about. Do You recommend any specific type/model? Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16798" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2019-06-23T07:40:08.977" LastActivityDate="2019-06-24T15:57:40.133" Title="Which 3D filament is 100% (or close to being so) food safe and non toxic?" Tags="|filament|3d-models|safety|food|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2019-06-23T07:38:21.877" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10304" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10303" CreationDate="2019-06-18T18:23:12.740" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Answer was moved to this question: &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/147/which-are-the-food-safe-materials-and-how-do-i-recognize-them&quot;&gt;Which are the food-safe materials and how do I recognize them?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2082" LastEditorUserId="2082" LastEditDate="2019-06-24T15:57:40.133" LastActivityDate="2019-06-24T15:57:40.133" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10306" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-06-18T21:14:04.823" Score="1" ViewCount="144" Body="&lt;p&gt;I tried to use an old spool of PDA and the filament would keep breaking.  New filament will discolor white but stay intact when you bend it.  This old filament would break off at a clean 90 degrees when you bend it with no discoloration.  However, our new material is Hatchbox PLA and the older is a different brand.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15075" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-06-18T23:57:28.073" LastActivityDate="2019-06-18T23:57:28.073" Title="Does PLA become brittle with age?" Tags="|pla|print-material|filament-quality|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2019-06-19T21:01:47.250" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10307" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10276" CreationDate="2019-06-19T06:55:31.330" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Now that print settings are shared we can see that this problem is not related to too fast printing (only 20&amp;nbsp;mm/s) or too low print temperature (210&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C should get PLA fluid enough). To explain this, a low temperature and too fast printing cause under-extruded lines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are 2 other causes that might be worth investigating:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Under-extrusion. From the top layers one can see that there may be insufficient material printed. &lt;a href=&quot;/q/6483/&quot;&gt;Calibration of the extruder&lt;/a&gt; helps in this respect.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Inaccurate positioning. This may for instance be caused by loose belts or a mechanical defect.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-06-19T13:12:36.193" LastActivityDate="2019-06-19T13:12:36.193" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10308" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10276" CreationDate="2019-06-19T10:29:24.183" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;To fix this, I had results with the following way:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Change your extrusion width from being equal to your nozzle size (0.4 mm) to slightly larger (I use 0.45 mm). That way you better combat the shrinking of the filament.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Having the &lt;code&gt;Print thin walls&lt;/code&gt; setting activated to force the printer to print intermediary walls if there are areas where less than the prescribed wall thickness for a single wall fills in spaces that are as a result of the wider outer walls left. The result for a 1.2 mm wall, the central part is a 0.3 mm zigzag.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lower the extrusion temperature a tad as hotter filament shrinks more on cooling! For PLA about 200 °C is my sweet spot.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally, there are extra steps that could be taken:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Finally, you could play around a little with the extrusion multiplier to try to get rid of the tiny bit of under extrusion you have.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6483/how-do-i-calibrate-the-extruder-of-my-printer&quot;&gt;Calibration&lt;/a&gt; could help too.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="39772" LastEditDate="2023-09-04T11:18:59.837" LastActivityDate="2023-09-04T11:18:59.837" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10310" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10311" CreationDate="2019-06-19T14:41:55.013" Score="3" ViewCount="1207" Body="&lt;p&gt;In regards to a part that I'm having printed remotely (by two processes:- stereolithography and laser sintering), I've been advised by the 3d printing company that 'the triangulation of the file is rather rough'. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this particular instance, it probably doesn't matter, but for the future, are there any tips to improving 'triangulation' when generating forms in AutoCAD?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note, AutoCAD's FACETRES variable is set to 10. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2419" LastEditorUserId="2419" LastEditDate="2019-06-21T13:40:26.727" LastActivityDate="2019-06-21T13:40:26.727" Title="Improving triangulation on AutoCAD-generated stl files" Tags="|print-quality|autodesk|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10311" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10310" CreationDate="2019-06-19T14:54:13.713" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The phrase &quot;triangulation of the file is rather rough&quot; is somewhat vague, but one can interpret it to mean that the surface is what is considered &quot;low poly&quot; in the 3D modeling world.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RarRO.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RarRO.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;low poly fox&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:937740&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Thingiverse&lt;/a&gt;, this low poly fox shows an intentionally reduced poly surface. I'm not suggesting that your models appear this distorted, but it may give a hint to what the service is referencing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Consider to load your model into a program such as Meshmixer, which will show you the triangles in 'W'ireframe mode. If there are few triangles over a surface, you can get the aforementioned effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Meshmixer also allows you to increase the mesh count, possibly improving the surface and satisfying the requirements of the printing service.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastActivityDate="2019-06-19T14:54:13.713" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10312" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10310" CreationDate="2019-06-19T15:20:16.767" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most CAD tools generate quite low-res triangulations. The ideal solution is to avoid using the CAD tool to generate them. For example, if the print shop can accept your CAD files directly, they may have other software that can triangulate them. For example, if the shop uses GrabCAD Print to slice your parts, that software can open CAD files directly, and produce much better triangulations than exporting from the CAD software. (In this case they won't be using GCP, which doesn't support the print technologies you mention, but it's just an example: some other vendors' tools have the same functionality.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't wish to send your original CAD parts, check if your tool can export Parasolid files (.x_t or .x_b). They contain the original boundary representation your CAD tool uses to represent geometry, but not the feature structure, constraints, or design intent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13100" LastActivityDate="2019-06-19T15:20:16.767" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10313" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10294" CreationDate="2019-06-19T23:21:19.410" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Supposedly, it's no longer necessary in a &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/pull/8179&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;recent Marlin version&lt;/a&gt;, already the &lt;code&gt;inline bool handle_adc_keypad()&lt;/code&gt; function from &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/blob/bugfix-1.1.x/Marlin/ultralcd.cpp&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;ultralcd.cpp&lt;/a&gt; has implemented a smaller (100&amp;nbsp;ms) time delay. You could lower the value of &lt;code&gt;#define ADC_MIN_KEY_DELAY 100&lt;/code&gt; to &lt;code&gt;#define ADC_MIN_KEY_DELAY 50&lt;/code&gt; to see if that has any effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, look for &lt;code&gt;next_button_update_ms = now + 300;&lt;/code&gt; (4 instances) which employs a 300&amp;nbsp;ms time delay after buttons are pressed. Try lowering the 300&amp;nbsp;ms time delay.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-06-27T06:24:28.643" LastActivityDate="2019-06-27T06:24:28.643" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10314" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-06-19T23:50:50.143" Score="3" ViewCount="5318" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WIkT8asT90A&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;This video&lt;/a&gt; brought to my attention the 8 mm lead of the Ender 3's Z axis screw, which seems like an exceedingly bad choice from a standpoint of accuracy with respect to common grid alignments in the Z direction. In particular, with the stepper having 200 full steps per rotation, the 8 mm lead consumes all the powers of two out of 200, leaving 25 full steps per mm - and 25ths of a mm are not a typical unit that layer heights/feature heights are going to be in. It seems like a 5 mm lead would be ideal, giving you 40 steps per mm, evenly divisible by 3 powers of 2 and one power of 5, for exact tenths and exact eights.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a motivation behind the choice of 8 mm lead? Is this common for other printers, and are there printers that use a 5 mm lead, or 5 mm replacements that work well?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2020-06-13T01:54:53.540" Title="Choice of lead for lead screw" Tags="|printer-building|lead-screw|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10315" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10314" CreationDate="2019-06-20T01:10:07.247" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've not seen trapezoid lead screws with 5&amp;nbsp;mm lead, you can get 5&amp;nbsp;mm lead ball screws though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On one printer I use 4&amp;nbsp;mm lead screws to get native 0.02&amp;nbsp;mm resolution (so 5 full steps for 0.1&amp;nbsp;mm, 10 for 0.2&amp;nbsp;mm, etc.). I also geared down 8&amp;nbsp;mm lead screws with a 2:1 ratio (e.g. to use a single Z-stepper driving a belt that drives 2 lead screws), works fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-06-20T04:32:47.753" LastActivityDate="2019-06-20T04:32:47.753" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10316" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10303" CreationDate="2019-06-20T02:23:06.060" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think this site will answer some questions about food safe 3D printing: &lt;a href=&quot;https://all3dp.com/1/food-safe-3d-printing-abs-pla-food-safe-filament/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;12 Vital Facts About Food Safe 3D Printing&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PLA is not a good choice for hot substances because it will deform at hot water temperatures which is no good for a cup (very dangerous!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would recommend a filament like PETG, PETE, HDPE, and LDPE: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.custom-pak.com/what-plastics-are-approved-for-food-contact-applications/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;What Plastics Are Approved for Food Contact Applications?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Those types of plastic require very high printing temperatures and an all metal hot end.  You don't want PTFE in your hot end when printing at those temperatures (265&amp;nbsp;°C) as it will emit toxic gasses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've seen food safe filaments for sale so it might be best to search Google for one of them to use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please keep in mind that printing anything will cause voids and gaps that will allow bacteria to grow.  Personally I don't think I would want to risk it for daily use items but a coffee/tea cup might be alright.  This is covered in the first link.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16804" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2019-06-21T10:18:07.247" LastActivityDate="2019-06-21T10:18:07.247" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10317" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10319" CreationDate="2019-06-20T03:58:03.767" Score="6" ViewCount="9791" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am printing a small cylinder, but when the object is finished, it's smaller than the measures I used when create the model.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I used thincerkad to make a simple model, the measures are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;width: 90 mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;height: 2 mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After the print was done, the actual dimensions were:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;width: 70 mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;height: 2 mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Pictures&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First attempt&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ESch8.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ESch8.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;one&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The smaller object that's in the drawn circle was the first one printed, the dimensions I used were:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;width: 110 mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;height: 2 mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then I printed it again, and the result was:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TAAPI.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TAAPI.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Two&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12715" LastEditorUserId="283" LastEditDate="2019-06-21T10:11:43.430" LastActivityDate="2019-06-21T15:53:14.973" Title="Why is the printed object smaller than original model?" Tags="|3d-models|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10318" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10317" CreationDate="2019-06-20T04:40:30.427" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are you using the stock firmware of your printer? Sounds like to me that you have 16 tooth pulleys and your firmware is set to 20 tooth i.e. 80 steps per mm&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The calculation behind the steps per mm is &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$\frac{\text{Steps per Revolution} \times Microsteps}{Teeth \times Pitch}$&lt;/span&gt;. The reason for this is that one revolution of the pulley will move the belt the number of teeth times the pitch of the belt. Now take the total number of steps, Steps per Revolution times microsteps, and divide by the distance moved giving the steps per mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$\underline{most}$&lt;/span&gt; hobby 3D printers you have:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1.8 degrees steppers which equals &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$\frac{360}{1.8}=200$&lt;/span&gt; steps per revolution , Less common is 0.9 degrees steppers &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$\frac{360}{0.9}=400$&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;GT2 is the most common belts now which have a pitch of 2mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The two most common pulleys are 16 tooth and 20 tooth, &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Depending on what stepper drivers and or configuration you have&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A4988 &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$\to$&lt;/span&gt; 16 microsteps&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;DRV8825 &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$\to$&lt;/span&gt; 32 microsteps&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Trinamic &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$\to$&lt;/span&gt; 16-256 mircosteps&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In your situation I believe you have a 1.8 degree stepper with 16 microsteps, a gt2 belt, and a 16 tooth pulley. Which means your XY steps per mm should be &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$\frac{200 \times 16}{16 \times 2} = 100$&lt;/span&gt;. While your firmware is expecting 20 tooth pulleys, yielding &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$\frac{200 \times 16}{20 \times 2} = 80$&lt;/span&gt;. This would result in your prints being &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$\frac{100-80}{100} = 20\%$&lt;/span&gt; smaller, which explains your results with the circles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Generalizing, the steppers, microsteps, and pitch don't matter. To go between 16 tooth pulleys to 20 tooth, multiply by &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$0.8=\frac{16}{20}$&lt;/span&gt;. From 20 tooth to 16 tooth, multiply by &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$1.25=\frac{20}{16}$&lt;/span&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11097" LastEditorUserId="11097" LastEditDate="2019-06-21T02:08:13.197" LastActivityDate="2019-06-21T02:08:13.197" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10319" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10317" CreationDate="2019-06-20T04:45:55.263" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Let's do the math, you printed something of size 9&amp;nbsp;cm and got a size of 7&amp;nbsp;cm. This implies that the scale equals &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$\frac{7}{9}=0.778$&lt;/span&gt;. In order to print it at the correct size, you should have printed the object at scale &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$\frac{1}{0.778}=1.286$&lt;/span&gt;; so 28.6&amp;nbsp;% bigger, i.e. &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$1.286\times9=11.6$&lt;/span&gt;&amp;nbsp;cm. You printed at 11&amp;nbsp;cm, so the print should become smaller than the pencil drawn circle on the paper. This is actually what you see in the image you supplied.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This can imply 2 things, you either scale the prints incorrectly to export to stl (but that is unlikely because the Z height is correct), or the steps per mm are incorrectly set in the firmware of your printer. The rotation of the steppers (usually 200 steps) need to be translated into linear movement; this depends on the used pulleys mounted on the steppers (typically used pulleys are: 16 or 20 teeth for belt driven X and Y axes).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Calibrating the steps per mm of the extruder is answered in &lt;a href=&quot;/a/6484/&quot;&gt;this answer&lt;/a&gt;. For the X and Y axis this works the same. If you have a Marlin based printer firmware, send G-code &lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#M503:_Print_settings&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;code&gt;M503&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/a&gt; to the printer over a terminal interface as e.g. OctoPrint, Pronterface (as part from Printrun: 3D printing host suite), Repetier-Host have, you can obtain the current values from the reply; these are listed under M92.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That value for X and Y needs to be multiplied by 1.286 (as an example) to get the correct dimensions. You do this by sending G-code &lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#M92:_Set_axis_steps_per_unit&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;code&gt;M92&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/a&gt; like &lt;code&gt;M92 X100.00 Y100.00&lt;/code&gt; (see &lt;a href=&quot;/a/10318&quot;&gt;this answer&lt;/a&gt; that explains which values you should use based on pulleys you use, either 80 or 100) to the printer, to keep these values they need to be stored in memory using G-code &lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#M500:_Store_parameters_in_non-volatile_storage&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;code&gt;M500&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/a&gt; (note that the values 100.00 should be replaced by the values you get by multiplying the return values for X and Y from &lt;code&gt;M503&lt;/code&gt; by the 1.286 multiplication factor, only if the error is systematically increasing with print dimensions, otherwise stick to the calculated values from e.g. the Prusa belt calculator). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Without the proper steps per mm, you will not be able to use the full potential of the bed. An alternative as scaling your prints by the appropriate scaling factor will only help if your scaled print is smaller than the bed size divided by that scaling factor, so no use of the full bed. Rather fix the firmware to fit the actual mechanical layout.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-06-21T15:53:14.973" LastActivityDate="2019-06-21T15:53:14.973" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10320" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10314" CreationDate="2019-06-20T05:58:55.160" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well, you can use the screw with the size you can get easily, but sometimes can be messy at the time to mount to the printer, for example I'm using on two printers a standard thread 1/4 which measures 6.35&amp;nbsp;mm so is a little hard to coupling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kbAxB.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kbAxB.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However milling the thread this can be mounted correctly, but the screw is soft and can be bent or warped easily making your printer wobbly and and produces failed prints.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/znkra.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/znkra.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However I´m satisfied with the printing quality and I can set prints with 0.1 and can increase 0.05 by 0.05&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now I want to mount an screw of 10&amp;nbsp;mm to minimize wobbling generated by those warped (bow) that repeats variation on size (x,y) on every cycle or every revolution. The 10mm screw are completely straight. I don't think that the stepper motors can be compromised with an extra weight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, Z layers can be at 0.05&amp;nbsp;mm but it can be achieved 0.02&amp;nbsp;mm tested until now. But wider diameter can achieve smooth edges.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4454" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-07-03T06:53:27.940" LastActivityDate="2019-07-03T06:53:27.940" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10321" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-06-20T17:29:50.430" Score="1" ViewCount="84" Body="&lt;p&gt;Has anyone seen a printed bottom extruder block with a cone added to get the filament into the hole which then feeds into the metal tube that connects to the heater?&#xA;We have a hard time getting coiled filament lined up, the filament curves and takes a lot of twists and tries to get into the hole in the bottom plastic block, and lately we've just taken to removing the fan/heatsink at the end of the servo to guide it in my hand, which is a pain in the butt and likely to wear out screw holes or something eventually.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hopefully this drawing shows what I mean. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It would be the 10th picture here, with a cone added above the hole at the lower left.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:852591&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:852591&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/r6edl.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/r6edl.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16523" LastActivityDate="2019-07-21T09:36:58.870" Title="Migbot extruder loading" Tags="|prusa-i3-rework|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10322" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-06-20T18:23:00.670" Score="0" ViewCount="1444" Body="&lt;p&gt;Getting slanted or leaning prints when printing multiple parts.&#xA;I checked the eccentric nuts and belts aren't rubbing anything. All works well when printing a single part. But multiple parts:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/d4BUR.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/d4BUR.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Two parts that should be straight&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What am I missing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16810" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2019-09-19T15:20:50.840" LastActivityDate="2020-08-09T03:11:21.117" Title="Ender 5 Slant or Leaning when printing multiple parts" Tags="|pla|creality-ender-5|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10323" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10324" CreationDate="2019-06-20T19:33:42.107" Score="4" ViewCount="391" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there a good rule of thumb for small type on 3d printed pieces?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Minimum type size?&#xA;Good typeface for accurate reproduction?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16811" LastActivityDate="2019-06-21T19:18:04.920" Title="Rule of thumb for small type" Tags="|print-quality|3d-models|3d-design|graphics|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10324" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10323" CreationDate="2019-06-20T21:25:46.670" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've had better luck with fonts that are heavier, usually sans-serif, and usually bold-face. All-caps can help, too, if it makes sense at all for the text. &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Impact_(typeface)&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Impact&lt;/a&gt; is one widely-available example, though it's far from perfect and rarely has the look I want. I also usually need to turn on the &quot;Print Thin Walls&quot; setting in Cura when handling smaller text.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When looking at how small you can get, we'll start with font sizes. It would be easy to get lost here in a discussion of points and measurements. The thing is, font sizes describe the &lt;em&gt;vertical height&lt;/em&gt; of the characters. For 3D printing, I believe you'll do better paying more attention to the &lt;em&gt;horizontal width&lt;/em&gt; of your text. Most characters are taller than they are wide, so if you can produce legible horizontal features, you can probably handle the vertical features, too. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'll use the letter &quot;H&quot; as an example here, because it shows the full size of the box for a typical character. Specifically, since I'm talking about horizontal features if you look at the bottom of the H, it has a three sections: leg, then gap, then leg. Also notice the gap is about 3 times the size of the legs (you can see this better if you zoom in close). This varies by font, but 3:1 is good average ratio. That gives us 5 units of width for the character itself. Additionally, you want to allow some spacing between individual characters; not every character needs it next to every other character, but I find it useful to allocate a 6th unit here. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now consider those 6 units in the context of your nozzle size. With a typical .4 mm nozzle, that means the smallest size character you can legibly produce is about 2.4 mm across. Of course, most fonts are not monospace, where a character might be larger or smaller, but I believe this makes a useful average. Count the number of letters in a line of text you want to print, multiply by 2.4 mm, and that's the minimum amount of horizontal space you need. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you really want to push things, a font specifically designed for 3D printing should theoretically be able to work in terms of 3 nozzle units wide + an extra gap between certain letters. But this is all theory, and for the minimum of what's possible. When you also start to think about what actually looks good, especially if you want to show features like serifs, the real world can really mess this up. In practice, &lt;em&gt;I've found I need to go significantly larger even than the 6 unit / 2.4 mm option...&lt;/em&gt; but maybe I've just used the wrong font. You can always try a test print of your text in a small rectangle, to make sure it will be legible before using in a larger object.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12562" LastEditorUserId="12562" LastEditDate="2019-06-21T19:18:04.920" LastActivityDate="2019-06-21T19:18:04.920" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10325" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10321" CreationDate="2019-06-20T22:24:08.487" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the question is &quot;has anyone seen...&quot; my answer is yes. It's not precisely what you show in the drawings, but close enough and for the same purpose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the case of a Robo3D R1+ printer, replacing the stock &quot;hexagon&quot; hot end with an E3Dv6 hot end provides for a piece of PTFE tubing inserted into the heat sink. The recommendation from the denizens of the 'net is to slice the top of the tubing in the shape you have in the drawing and to have the tubing extend sufficiently to reach the junction of the hob gear and pinch roller. This took some doing, but I was able to get an appropriate taper to the tubing end that does not contact the moving parts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As the fed-in filament exits the assembly, the small gap between the wheels and the tubing gives the filament nowhere else to go but into the heat sink and hot end.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As your design reference indicates a 3D printed part, it might be practical to engineer into that segment a larger hole to take the PTFE tubing and then size the length after the wheels are in place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3os2W.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3os2W.png&quot; alt=&quot;PTFE Guide&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The above image shows the added PTFE tubing surrounding the filament. Even though the slightly diagonal cut appears somewhat as a cone, it is not. The edges are parallel to the rollers/hob gear. The lower portion has been omitted for ease of drawing, but would extend into a hole drilled or printed in the block holding the assembly, based on the thingiverse link provided.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastEditorUserId="854" LastEditDate="2019-07-21T09:36:58.870" LastActivityDate="2019-07-21T09:36:58.870" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10327" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-06-21T01:01:48.560" Score="6" ViewCount="1662" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've seen several questions about dyes in regards to food-safety, with no conclusive answers, as well as anecdotes on the RepRap wiki about how the mechanical properties of dyed PLA tend to vary by color. The general unsatisfactory answer is that dyes and additives used are proprietary secrets of filament manufacturers. However, 3D printer filament is a sufficiently large industry, with sufficiently many players now, that many of these &quot;secrets&quot; surely have to be &quot;open secrets&quot; to some extent by now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is known about what types of dyes and additives that tend to be used in filaments for 3D printing? Is there information on distinguishing between them with optical, chemical, etc. properties?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My thought is that by knowing some of the common dyes used by some manufacturers, it would be possible to:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;choose those if interested in properties of them, and; &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;devise test procedures to evaluate if a different/&quot;generic&quot; filament seems to be using the same ones.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2019-07-12T17:52:49.240" LastActivityDate="2019-07-12T17:52:49.240" Title="What actual dyes are used in filaments?" Tags="|filament|print-material|color|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10328" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-06-21T01:20:27.210" Score="2" ViewCount="1270" Body="&lt;p&gt;I feel like I’ve tried everything. I’ve had an Ender 3 for seven months now printing in PLA. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I’ve modded it plenty including BLTouch. I’m now doing a project that really requires ABS so I have the white hatch box ABS. It wasn’t sticking at first but I got that well under control with glue tape and proper leveling with an enclosure. And I’m assuming this is important. I do indeed have an enclosure. Anyone I’m printing this part that has two long but thin-sideways protrusions coming out. Each one keeps de-laying at two specific points. I’ve tried everything including temperature and everything in Cura settings. I’m up to four failed prints now. I also tried other prints with the ABS and they also delayered in specific spots over and over. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please help I’m close to completely giving up on my projects. The de-layerings are all the same with this one being the worse of them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/s3MRr.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Photo of print&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/s3MRr.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Photo of print&quot; title=&quot;Photo of print&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16813" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2019-06-21T10:14:59.917" LastActivityDate="2019-06-27T19:34:58.397" Title="ABS de-layering on Ender 3" Tags="|abs|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10329" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10322" CreationDate="2019-06-21T01:29:25.063" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;If you want a more detailed answer, you need to give more details, e.g.; &quot;What filament are you using?&quot; &quot;How old is the printer?&quot; &quot;What mods have you made to it?&quot;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can tell you two possibilities. Either your x or y axis is slipping which could be because of worn out belts, belts that need to be tightened, or because of too much jerk. The other is overheating of the stepper drivers so make sure the board is getting enough air over it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16813" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-07-21T06:43:10.550" LastActivityDate="2019-07-21T06:43:10.550" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10330" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10310" CreationDate="2019-06-21T09:53:36.193" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://forums.autodesk.com/t5/autocad-forum/stl-files-resolution/td-p/6591803&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;This thread&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;https://knowledge.autodesk.com/support/autocad/learn-explore/caas/CloudHelp/cloudhelp/2016/ENU/AutoCAD-Core/files/GUID-2DF46705-EE9E-409F-86B5-ED391CE207DC-htm.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this article&lt;/a&gt;, both on Autodesks website, suggest altering the &lt;code&gt;FACETRES&lt;/code&gt; system variable to &lt;code&gt;10&lt;/code&gt; to achieve a higher-quality .stl export.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively, you can use the &lt;code&gt;3DPRINT&lt;/code&gt; command for &lt;code&gt;FACETRES&lt;/code&gt; to be increased automatically, which will then offer an .stl export or to send the file directly to a 3D printing service.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13171" LastActivityDate="2019-06-21T09:53:36.193" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10331" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10341" CreationDate="2019-06-21T10:59:30.733" Score="2" ViewCount="417" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not talking about making something that's outright disproportionate of course. I've been working in Blender and I've use Absolute grid Snap to snap my vertices to the grid. The problem is that it (didn't seem) to always work perfectly for centimeters, and seemed to work better for meters. &#xA;(edit: I've learned what the problem was and it was simply the placement of the vertices in side view, being at  slightly different elevations. I'm going to emphasize that the difference was very slight. It was just enough to show up in the measurements. When I switched from front view to side view I was able to adjust the elevation to the grid and that fixed the problem.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16819" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-07-13T22:31:26.793" LastActivityDate="2020-07-13T22:31:26.793" Title="How precise do models need to be for 3D printing?" Tags="|print-quality|3d-models|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10332" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10331" CreationDate="2019-06-21T12:38:28.083" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;It depends on what you're working on. If you're producing mechanical/functional parts (even if that just means having to connect to one another or to some non-printed part), 3 mm (0.3 cm) error is almost surely going to prevent them from working. Even 0.3 mm error might be a problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're doing standalone prints that don't have to interface with anything else, e.g. art, non-articulated figurines, etc., then it becomes just a question of what's visually acceptable, and that's a matter both of scale and of the detail level you want. For typical tabletop-RPG scale, for example, most of the acutal visual features are going to be smaller than 3 mm, so that much error is not going to work out. It might work for large busts, though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In any case, I would recommend trying to solve the underlying problem. Either change your grid snap, or work at a larger scale and just scale down the final model.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2019-06-21T12:38:28.083" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10333" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10327" CreationDate="2019-06-21T13:14:04.057" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I fear your supposition about &lt;em&gt;secret&lt;/em&gt; --&gt; &lt;em&gt;open secret&lt;/em&gt; is too optimistic.   Manufacturers are very unlikely to reveal their components, or the mix ratio, used to create a given color.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Consider the Coca-cola formula.  It's been a secret for over a hundred years, despite a number of competing cola-ish brands.   Consider also that the label you buy is the label of the supplier, and there's no guarantee that a given supplier won't change the manufacturer they use for  bulk material at any time (raw colored plastic, just not drawn into filament). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As to doing analysis on your own, I fear the cost of a good gas chromatograph, mass spectrometer, etc. is staggeringly high. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2191" LastActivityDate="2019-06-21T13:14:04.057" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10334" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-06-21T15:11:35.073" Score="1" ViewCount="146" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does anyone use &quot;space saver&quot; style vacuum storage bags to keep fillament dry? I picked up some Ziploc space bags, but they are larger than ideal. Would probably fit 2.5 spools. I would love a smaller version just big enough for one spool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10422" LastActivityDate="2019-06-21T21:48:44.417" Title="Vacuum storage bags?" Tags="|filament|storage|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10335" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10334" CreationDate="2019-06-21T15:19:48.367" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've read people are using them, makes sense, the less air you contain, the less moisture would be in the bag. Myself, I'm using IKEA ziplock bags (and moisture absorbing sachets), they come in many sizes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2019-06-21T15:19:48.367" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10336" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10331" CreationDate="2019-06-21T15:24:47.947" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Welcome to the SE 3D Printing site.  Your questions are also welcome, as well as your answers to your questions, and the questions of others.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am not a Blender user.  I use CAD systems because most of what I do I want to have a certain dimensional precision.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the problem is as simple as &quot;The overall object is designed to be 7.345 centimeters but I want it to be 7.000 centimeters,&quot; you can fix that when you print the model.  Use the scaling feature of your slicer to scale by &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$(7.000/7.345)$&lt;/span&gt; or &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$95.303\%$&lt;/span&gt;.  It will print as the size you want.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem may be deeper, though, in that you may be having trouble setting points within the model where you want them.  In that case, the snap-to-grid feature is distorting your model's appearance and geometry, and there is nothing you can do to fix it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it can't be fixed by scaling, I would suggest that you should either turn off the snap-to features or set up a grid that matches the granularity you actually want for your design.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2082" LastActivityDate="2019-06-21T15:24:47.947" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10337" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-06-21T17:06:25.790" Score="2" ViewCount="681" Body="&lt;p&gt;Similar to, but different from, &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/3383/marlin-end-stops-and-position-report-possible-bug&quot;&gt;Marlin, end stops, and position report - possible bug?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is roughly the same question, but I'm trying to understand the endstops hit response from Marlin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm working on a prototype machine that has min and max endstops on X, Y.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I get the real position after hitting the &lt;em&gt;max&lt;/em&gt; endstops? The reported position is either what I &lt;em&gt;told&lt;/em&gt; the machine to move to, or if SW endstops are enabled, whatever the config value for max X, Y are.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the endstops hit message comes in it provides a number after the X or Y but I can't figure out how it's related to anything in the FW config or the physical printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;E.g.: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bed/max sizes (X, Y) set to 500&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Endstops enabled&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Move w/ &lt;code&gt;G0 Y250&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ymax endstop triggered ~161&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Receive &lt;code&gt;echo:endstops hit:  Y:0.00&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;code&gt;M114&lt;/code&gt; returns &lt;code&gt;X:0.00 Y:250.00 Z:0.00 E:0.00 Count A:25147 B:25147 Z:0&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the counts are (likely) correct (CoreYX machine), they're zero after homing to minimum position, but using them to determine the physical position seems sketchy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now: If I continue...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Move w/ &lt;code&gt;G0 X250&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Receive &lt;code&gt;echo:endstops hit:  X:157.31&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;code&gt;G0 Y250&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Receive &lt;code&gt;echo:endstops hit:  Y:-265.55&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's the thing: those values are roughly what I expect the X, Y max values to be, except (a) they're reversed, e.g., IRL the ~Y at Ymax endstop is around 161, and Xmax endstop is around 265.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is Marlin:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Flipping the X/Y values somehow (and inverting X, probably because I'm doing something weird to try to track this down)?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Should I instead do some CoreYX math to attempt to get the physical position based on stepper counts?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is happening here?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13559" LastActivityDate="2019-06-24T16:27:13.767" Title="Marlin endstop hit message deciphering/real position" Tags="|marlin|endstop|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10338" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10298" CreationDate="2019-06-21T18:57:14.027" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is a clear scar in the print that looks like the print head has hit it.  The scar is about 1/3 of the way up the straight return segment on the right side of the photo.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The OP has provided enough information to show that it isn't an overhang or bridging problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't see any cracks in the print where part of it may have separated and bent upwards.  I accept the OP's statement that the item is well attached to the bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What problems could there be?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The printer may have a Z-axis problem at that height.  Perhaps it exceeds the maximum Z-height, or perhaps there is some obstruction or debris in a lead screw that is preventing it from freely moving above that height.  The obstruction could be a cable that is too tight or an errant tie-wrap that hits something, or almost anything that interferes with motion at that height.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is always the possibility of a bad wire (such as to the nozzle heater) that causes problems when the height reaches a critical level.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There may be a parameter change in the slicing software that is set for that height (or layer count).  There shouldn't be, but a default profile may have been changed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2082" LastActivityDate="2019-06-21T18:57:14.027" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10339" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-06-21T19:42:48.493" Score="3" ViewCount="359" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does anyone have tips on improving build plate adhesion in DLP printers? I've heard a thin layer of resin or UV glue applied to the plate will help, but we're not sure if we leave the resin/glue wet, or cure it before we start the print. Apologies for the ignorance here, but I'm just trying to avoid gluing my build plate to the bottom of the resin vat! Any advice would be appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Update&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;I had a product called ProtoGlass recommended to me in another forum, that apparently works as a good build plate primer for the resin we're trying to grow (BlueCast x5). Ordering today, and I'll update further with the results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16821" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2021-04-03T17:27:28.480" LastActivityDate="2021-06-07T11:01:30.617" Title="DLP build plate adhesion" Tags="|adhesion|resin|dlp|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10340" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10328" CreationDate="2019-06-21T21:34:37.893" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Welcome Fox_89 to the SE 3D Printing site.  Thank you for bringing your question, and I hope you contribute both questions and answers in the years ahead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I understand that you've tried everything, so I have nothing new to suggest.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Never the less, I would suggest some possibilities, perhaps one of which you haven't yet tried:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Extrude hotter filament.  Increase the nozzle temperature.  My&#xA;printer (Pruse3D i3m3s) prints ABS at 255 degrees C.  Give the layers&#xA;a better chance to melt together.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Print slower, so that the layers have a longer time to melt together,&#xA;and they have a longer time to cool before the next layer reheats&#xA;them.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use a cooling fan to bring the part to equilibrium more quickly.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Try a different filament.  Not all filaments have the same shrinkage.&#xA;Hatchbox has worked pretty well for me, but try another manufacturer.&#xA;Try another color, like transparent.  White can be a difficult color&#xA;because it must carry a high pigment load.  Black can carry less&#xA;pigment, and might be easier to print.  &quot;Transparent&quot; or &quot;natural&quot;&#xA;carries no pigment.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check for anything that might increase the strain on the part at that&#xA;layer.  It could be a geometry change on the other side of the part,&#xA;since that changes the thermal profile of the whole layer.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Must it be ABS?  PETG has a higher working temperature than PLA, but will print&#xA;differently than ABS.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2082" LastActivityDate="2019-06-21T21:34:37.893" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10341" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10331" CreationDate="2019-06-21T21:35:59.483" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;After some trouble shooting I realized what was wrong, and now it seems more like a non issue if anything. There's actually nothing wrong with the grid, and the vertices were snapped to it appropriately in top view. The problem was that that my vertices were not at the same elevation (in side view).  The two seemed very close to being snapped appropriately on the grid in side view which is why it wasn't immediately obvious. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16819" LastEditorUserId="16819" LastEditDate="2019-06-22T00:55:50.710" LastActivityDate="2019-06-22T00:55:50.710" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10342" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10334" CreationDate="2019-06-21T21:48:44.417" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a commercially available product known as a foodsaver (TM) which removes the air from the bag and really squeezes tightly around the spool. The width of the bags I use barely takes the typical spool but it does fit with a little elbow grease.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I include a bag of desiccant in each bag to pull any residual moisture.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's a good idea to use the cut-to-length bags on a roll, which allows you to add excess length, as you have to cut and toss away the previous seal each time you use the spool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I too purchased the big honking bags and never built the structure I planned to use with it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So many compromises regardless of the method used. I've since switched to Sealtite Storage Bins from Target. They have a gasket around the lid and I've increased the bag of desiccant in each one. They stack well too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastActivityDate="2019-06-21T21:48:44.417" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10343" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10327" CreationDate="2019-06-22T02:54:40.903" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I spoke with a chemist tonight.   He said to start with the SDS (or MSDS) for the filament,  which is required to be available for most materials.   It should list the pigments and additives if they are not recognized as safe.  If they are safe,  non-toxic, not flammable, non-reactive, they might not be disclosed on the data sheet. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;He warns that sometimes the SDS lists just an industry name for a common pigment,  and sometimes is the full chemical name.   IMO, Google may help with translation. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The chemist has a deep background in color science and pigments. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2082" LastActivityDate="2019-06-22T02:54:40.903" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10344" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10327" CreationDate="2019-06-22T09:48:18.443" Score="3" Body="&lt;h2&gt;No Dyes at all.&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your question is based on a misconception:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A dye is a coloured substance that chemically bonds to the substrate to which it is being applied, this distinguishes dyes from pigments which do not chemically bind to the material they colour.&lt;sup&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dye&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Wikipedia&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The coloration does not chemically bond with the plastic in production. It is thus a pigment that is melted into the filament.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pigment&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Pigments&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The range of pigments is ginormous. They start as simple as pure &lt;a href=&quot;http://cameo.mfa.org/wiki/Carbon_black&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;carbon black&lt;/a&gt;, range over natural occurring ones such as &lt;a href=&quot;http://cameo.mfa.org/wiki/Zinc_white&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;zinc white&lt;/a&gt; (ZnO) to products of chemistry like the &lt;a href=&quot;http://cameo.mfa.org/wiki/Phthalocyanine_blue&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;dark blue copper phthalocyanine&lt;/a&gt;. Some pigments of these are toxic (&lt;a href=&quot;http://cameo.mfa.org/wiki/Lead_white&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;lead white&lt;/a&gt;), others are also carcinogenic (&lt;a href=&quot;http://cameo.mfa.org/wiki/Chrome_yellow&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;chrome yellow&lt;/a&gt;), others are atop that radioactive (uranium trioxide, aka &lt;a href=&quot;http://cameo.mfa.org/wiki/Uranium_yellow&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;uranium yellow&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But what is actually used for coloring the filaments? Usually, manufacturers choose their pigments carefully based on 3 factors:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;thermally stable in the printing range&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;as non-toxic as possible (to avoid needing to declare it on the MSDS)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;as cheap as possible to work with&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Usually, this rules out all the highly toxic and radioactive ones, as that demands extreme caution to work with, upping prices.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;What's used?&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Usually, &lt;strong&gt;we can't know&lt;/strong&gt;. While the list of &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_inorganic_pigments&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;inorganic pigments&lt;/a&gt; is rather limited in some areas, it is by far not complete. It's better to take a look at the &lt;a href=&quot;http://cameo.mfa.org/wiki/Forbes_Pigment_Database&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Forbes Pigment Database&lt;/a&gt;, which lists 11 categories of &lt;em&gt;white&lt;/em&gt; pigments, 9 of them by chemical composition, one by origin and one for 3 samples of unknown composition. The 2 categories of violet pigments contain 20 different samples.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;But why don't we know?&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In most cases, the color of plastic does not bring any danger or changes the properties more significant than changing its melting point. As the chosen pigments are inert to most treatments, they don't need to be listed on the MSDS, and thus omitted, allowing the companies to keep them a trade secret that helps them compete against other companies for only they have this one specific color.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Our best indicator for what pigments are used thus is, if they use a trade name for a filament, such as &amp;quot;ultramarine blue&amp;quot;, which however might not be in the filament at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;When do we know?&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In some cases, we might actually know what they put into a roll of filament based on odd characteristics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Phosphorescence#Materials&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;phosphorescent green&lt;/a&gt; filament. It is most commonly made with either &lt;a href=&quot;https://beta-static.fishersci.com/content/dam/fishersci/en_US/documents/programs/education/regulatory-documents/sds/chemicals/chemicals-z/S25643.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;zinc sulfide&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.ltschem.com/msds/SrAl2O4.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;strontium aluminate&lt;/a&gt;, and we can rule out one or the other based on how bright they glow on the dark photo.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another case in which we know what is in the filament is in the case of metal infused filaments, where it is part of the advertisement, that these filaments contain some amount of one metal powder or another. For example, the rusting filament contains iron. Then there is also filament that contains up to 80 % metal powder. Another similar bucket are wood- and stonefill filaments, where wood fibers or ceramics were added to give color and texture.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:29:41.667" LastActivityDate="2019-06-22T10:32:43.253" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10345" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10378" CreationDate="2019-06-22T14:14:05.373" Score="9" ViewCount="39368" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just installed my (v3) BLTouch with a vanilla version of Marlin (1.1.9) on my Ender 3 and everything seems to work fine (including auto home) except the probing. It repeatedly does the first three probes (successfully) but then tries the fourth and fails. Even when disabling the axis movement (X/Y stepper motors) the issue persists, which would indicate that it is not a bad connection or physical location dependent. Any ideas on how to troubleshoot?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On second thoughts, it seems that it now fails inconsistently, so it is probably a wiring issue, although there is still the issue of it not retracting before printing and not leveling well when it does (although those issues would be more appropriate for a separate question), among other things.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&amp;lt;Edit: Resolved, I both replaced the BLTouch and updated my firmware, but I believe it was the latter that fixed it.&amp;gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16827" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-12-16T06:35:02.907" LastActivityDate="2023-01-07T00:21:27.767" Title="BLTouch Probing Fails Intermittently" Tags="|marlin|bed-leveling|bltouch|" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10346" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12075" CreationDate="2019-06-22T17:32:17.743" Score="1" ViewCount="2121" Body="&lt;p&gt;Note: The &quot;TL smoothers&quot; referred to in the question title are an arrangement of 8 diodes that presumably both provide a voltage drop to address the minimum current output issue of some stepper drivers described in &lt;a href=&quot;https://hackaday.com/2016/08/29/how-accurate-is-microstepping-really/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;How Accurate Is Microstepping Really&lt;/a&gt;, and provide flyback protection and protection of the driver from currents induced by moving the motor in the unpowered state.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, on to the question:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I put together a simple test part to test Y (or X) axis microstepping accuracy:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/siHlD.png&quot; alt=&quot;Test part design - OpenSCAD screenshot&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Every 1mm in the Z direction, the face steps inward 1/80 mm (corresponding to my printer's [micro]steps per mm setting) in the Y direction and 1 mm in the X direction (to clearly show where the steps happen).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are the results (two runs, near-identical output):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HyDve.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Photo of test prints lying down&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5hJWJ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Photo of test prints upright&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Several of the steps are missing entirely, and it's the middle vertical surface, rather than the side two stepped-vertical surfaces, that shows a step-like texture.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that layers have been printed counter-clockwise, but the design with steps on both sides is to try to reduce the impact of print orientation so as not to depend on what the slicer decides to do. Print speed was 30 mm/s for outer walls, with outer walls set to be printed first so they're not affected by already-printed inner ones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This looks to me like an indication that microstepping is not working accurately, and seems to agree partly with this article: &lt;a href=&quot;https://hackaday.com/2016/08/29/how-accurate-is-microstepping-really/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://hackaday.com/2016/08/29/how-accurate-is-microstepping-really/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would TL smoothers improve this? My printer is an Ender 3, seemingly the latest revision at the time it was sold (December 2018) based on the bed and other aspects. Some threads I found suggested that this was a problem with older Ender 3s that was fixed in later revisions and that TL smoothers won't help, but it looks to me like it's not fixed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Update: With settings adjusted for 0 jerk and 50 mm/s² acceleration in the outer walls, I got a somewhat improved result:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CtoxR.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;New test print (lower) compared to old (upper)&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All steps are clearly visible, but at the reduced and more varying speed, artifacts of the extruder motor accuracy (or maybe just bowden latency) are much worse, and at the steps the &quot;overshoot and bounce back&quot; effect is still happening. Is this consistent with a situation where the TL smoothers I asked about could benefit?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Update 2: I've further tested with leaving acceleration at default (500 mm/s²) and just disabling &quot;jerk&quot;, i.e. &quot;instantaneous&quot; change in speed. The results are at least as good as the above with slow acceleration. What strikes me most is that the &quot;overshoot then bounce back&quot; happens outward from the model on &lt;em&gt;both&lt;/em&gt; edges, rather than inward on the righthand side where the (CCW moving) nozzle is turning inward. Could this indicate that there's no microstepping accuracy problem at all, and that the artifact is purely from excess extrusion as the corner is turned?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Updated pic (new one below):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jeGq0.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Old test piece above, new with default accel and 0 jerk below&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastEditorUserId="11157" LastEditDate="2019-06-28T20:24:43.133" LastActivityDate="2020-02-26T15:39:11.960" Title="Does this microstepping test result indicate need for TL smoothers?" Tags="|print-quality|creality-ender-3|microstepping|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10347" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10348" CreationDate="2019-06-22T19:50:22.753" Score="4" ViewCount="2133" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am using a new Prusa i3 MK3S 3D printer kit. I print lots of things using PLA and PETG. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After a week of great performance I noticed that when printing some objects with PETG filament I often encountered a problem  when there's  &lt;strong&gt;intense stringing, infill gaps, artifacts, the object sometimes detaches from the plate.&lt;/strong&gt; I use the Prusa Slicer and Cura and print with the temperature 230/90&amp;nbsp;°C, speed max. 300&amp;nbsp;%.This problem occurs rather regardless of which infill methods I choose. I see this problem more often when printing models sliced with Cura. Sometimes everything goes fine, but most of the time I need to stop the print due to the model collapsing, detaching from the surface, its parts collapsing due to infill gaps. The printer sometimes makes some 'clicking, cracking' sounds when printing with PETG.  &lt;em&gt;My filaments come from Fiberology&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Surprisingly, I have run the selftest, XYZ, Z calibrations and all the other ones without any errors. The wizard told me that the axes are perpendicular and it gave me congratulations. All the other tests went nearly perfect as well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do not encounter any problems using PLA, just with PETG. I try to maintain the filament properly (keep it away from moisture, in a closed box). Sometimes (rarely) &lt;strong&gt;I get crashes. The filament often builds up on the hotend and I remove it.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do not know what to do, the build went very well and there are no errors, even though I am a new user and this is my very first 3D printer. I have searched the web and I haven't found people reporting this exact same thing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could You help me? What can I do to improve the quality of the prints, perhaps maintain PETG better &lt;strong&gt;(maybe I'm doing something wrong) and most importantly, solve the problem&lt;/strong&gt;?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16798" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2019-07-12T17:55:33.430" LastActivityDate="2019-07-12T17:56:01.327" Title="Prusa i3 MK3S 3D printer PETG printing problems" Tags="|print-quality|prusa-i3|3d-models|petg|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10348" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10347" CreationDate="2019-06-22T20:51:56.357" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;230&amp;nbsp;°C is way too cool for PETG and will result in underextrusion unless you print really slow, and poor bonding. Underextrusion in turn leads to stringing because of pressure build-up. I print PETG at 250&amp;nbsp;°C.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2019-07-12T17:56:01.327" LastActivityDate="2019-07-12T17:56:01.327" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10349" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10354" CreationDate="2019-06-22T22:06:22.017" Score="16" ViewCount="9787" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've always been wondering about the actual accuracy of 3D printing devices. When looking for the perfect machine to buy, I looked at the speed, price, filaments supported etc, but also accuracy. I once asked somebody who could give me some advice on what to look at. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of the things I was told about was that many printers don't necessarily have that crazy precision of 0.05&amp;nbsp;mm (50 micron). Another person told me something different - he said most of those printers actually were capable of putting out 50 micron layer height. How is it really? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another thing is that the official slicers for those machines also claim that this precision is real, for instance the PrusaSlicer v2.0. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are many high-end, very expensive machines and even they sometimes claim their resolution is worse than 50 microns.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16798" LastEditorUserId="16847" LastEditDate="2019-06-25T07:34:23.417" LastActivityDate="2019-06-25T13:05:21.767" Title="Do 3D printers really reach 50 micron (0.05 mm) accuracy?" Tags="|3d-models|3d-design|fdm|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10350" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10347" CreationDate="2019-06-23T03:27:19.890" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You might try printing with Prusa's recommended settings.  They tend to be hotter and slower than I expected.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have made several pet-G prints with the same machine you have. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2082" LastActivityDate="2019-06-23T03:27:19.890" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10351" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10349" CreationDate="2019-06-23T07:49:11.050" Score="9" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;One of the things I was told about was that many printers don't necessarily have that crazy precision of 0.05 mm (50 micron). Another person told me something different - he said most of those printers actually were capable of putting out 50 micron layer height. How is it really?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both things you've read are completely correct.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most printers are capable of 50 micron layer heights. However, layer height does not equal &quot;accuracy&quot; or &quot;precision&quot;. The layer height specification is a useless marketing term that you should ignore; layer height is to 3D printers what dynamic contrast is to monitors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All FDM printers are inherently quite bad at producing parts with tight tolerances. The filament extrusion process introduces lots of variables that are hard to control: the diameter of the filament may vary, there is a delay between feeding filament into to the extruder and it coming out, and the gooey filament that comes out of the extruder behaves in unpredictable ways.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Nobody has figured out how to quantify &quot;accuracy&quot; for 3D printers in a way that correlates with the quality of the finished parts. It is impossible to tell which printer produces &quot;better&quot; or more accurate parts from the specification sheet of a printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-06-24T08:50:33.237" LastActivityDate="2019-06-24T08:50:33.237" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10352" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-06-23T10:44:49.803" Score="2" ViewCount="114" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an OpenSCAD model which I am looking at in the application, code to the left and the rendering to the right.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Am trying to modify a certain piece, and have commented out all the commands that I believed were related to that piece, but there is still one subtracted cube left, i.e. somewhere in the code there is a &lt;code&gt;difference&lt;/code&gt; block with this &lt;code&gt;cube&lt;/code&gt; command somewhere in the 2nd part (I believe, as I cannot see any other possibility).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It would be very nice if I could just click on the image and get the software to display the corresponding commands in the code.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is anything like that available in any tool?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9201" LastActivityDate="2019-06-23T11:12:09.570" Title="Find OpenSCAD code from image" Tags="|openscad|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10353" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10352" CreationDate="2019-06-23T11:12:09.570" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;To my knowledge, OpenSCAD does not have any such feature. However, a related feature might help you: the &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikibooks.org/wiki/OpenSCAD_User_Manual/Modifier_Characters&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;debugging aid modifier characters&lt;/a&gt;. By inserting &lt;code&gt;%&lt;/code&gt;, &lt;code&gt;#&lt;/code&gt;, &lt;code&gt;!&lt;/code&gt;, or &lt;code&gt;*&lt;/code&gt; before an object (including aggregate objects), you can control how it renders in relation to the whole file; this makes it possible to do &quot;binary search&quot; type operations to figure out where the object you're seeing is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2019-06-23T11:12:09.570" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10354" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10349" CreationDate="2019-06-23T11:36:59.650" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's not a simple answer to this question, or if there is, it's &quot;no&quot;. However the situation is a lot more complicated. When printer specs cite accuracy like this, they're usually basing the claim on the nominal size of the smallest movements on each axis by one &quot;microstep&quot; of the stepper motors. There's a great article on Hackaday explaining the how this affects accuracy: &lt;a href=&quot;https://hackaday.com/2016/08/29/how-accurate-is-microstepping-really/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;How Accurate is Microstepping Really&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the mechanical positioning level - putting the print head where it needs to be to extrude the material with the desired accuracy - you have at least these factors limiting your accuracy:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Microsteps are generally spaced roughly monotonically between whole steps, but do not necessarily divide the whole step into even portions. How well they do is a matter of the stepper drivers your printer's controller board uses. Generally, microsteps are 1/16 of a step (although there are drivers with 1/8, 1/32, or even 1/256, maybe others too), so if you see a rated accuracy of 0.05 mm, a whole step, which might be the minimum you can get reliable accuracy from, is likely 0.8 mm.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Stepper motors are deflected slightly - up to 2 whole steps but less than one step is more likely if they're not overloaded - under load. So are belts. How much this affects you depends on the design of the printer and how much mass each axis is moving. Direct drive extruders are much worse in this regard. Delta printers are probably best in it.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These can be mitigated somewhat, with tradeoffs, by using stepper motors with more steps per rotation, better stepper driver chips, reduction with gears, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On top of that, you also have extrusion and properties of the print material limiting your accuracy:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The extruder motor is subject to the same accuracy issues as the positioning ones. If you extrude too much or too little material anywhere, you'll necessarily have accuracy issues. You can compute them based on the cross-sectional area of filament, size of extruder gear, extruder motor step and microstep size, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If the filament diameter is not perfectly consistent, you'll also extrude too much or too little material.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If material is not cooled or kept warm appropriately as it's extruded (this varies by material), it will sag, warp, or curl, ending up in a different place from where you wanted it.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The more you vary the ratio between nozzle/extrusion width and layer height from an ideal ratio, the more the shape of the extruded material paths will differ from the model you're trying to print. With thick layers especially they'll become rounded rather than near-flat along the walls.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In theory, a lot of these issues probably could be mitigated a lot better than they are now just by better &lt;em&gt;slicing&lt;/em&gt; - the logic that happens on a computer to convert the original 3D model into instructions for where to extrude material.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With all that said, you can get pretty amazing accuracy still, especially with a good or well-tuned so-so printer. On my cheap Ender 3, after dealing with some issues now and then that made glaringly obvious problems, I can get dimensional accuracy within 0.1 mm in the X and Y directions, at least for some models. So I think it's very plausible that a better, or better-tuned, printer could get 0.05 mm accuracy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2019-06-23T11:36:59.650" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10355" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="147" CreationDate="2019-06-23T13:26:24.633" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have looked at this a lot, both from the standpoint of my own use, and of selling items on Etsy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as I can determine, PLA and ABS are both generally safe. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The FDA lists ABS and PLA as safe plastics for food contact, although some pigments and additives can bring their own problems. ABS is nit generally safe (per the FDA) for contact with alcohol. I don't know why.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, for my use, I make wine, beer, and cocktail containers from PLA, and coffee mugs from ABS.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PETG softens too much with boiling water and does not work for coffee and tea mugs. I've tried. It fails.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Be careful if you use acetone smoothing on ABS. The acetone enters the ABS, and even after a few days of ambient conditions, the plastic may contain enough acetone to create bubbles in the plastic when the acetone boils off in response to hot water. I had heavily smoothed this particular teacup. Perhaps if it was less exposed to acetone vapors, it may have let the disolved acetone escape faster.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have used non-smoothed ABS coffee mugs for months without problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will read about brass nozzles contaminating the print with lead. You will read about the ridges being bacterial breading grounds. This may be true. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;ABS still makes a fine coffee mug for personal use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2082" LastActivityDate="2019-06-23T13:26:24.633" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10356" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-06-23T16:59:33.190" Score="8" ViewCount="6676" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm wondering if I can take one OpenSCAD object, and cut/splice/split it into two different objects that can then be manipulated independently? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One approach is to duplicate the object, difference it along the cut border with a 3rd object, and then difference the result with itself. This seems overly complex and I suspect I'm missing something&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PS - the point of this is that I have a nicely designed part where I need to create an interlock. I want to first cut the part in half, and then create some interlock mechanism&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16835" LastActivityDate="2019-06-24T15:15:30.327" Title="Is there an easy way to split models in OpenSCAD?" Tags="|openscad|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10357" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10356" CreationDate="2019-06-23T17:22:56.360" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Rather than differencing a copy of the object from itself, which is subject to numerical instability, choose a box (&quot;cube&quot; in OpenSCAD terminology), and intersect it with one copy of the object, then difference it from the other copy of the object. This is all easy if you use modules to encapsulate your parts, and it also works with imported STL files.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Specifically, it should look something like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;module mycut() {&#xA;    translate([x,y,z]) cube([w,l,h]);&#xA;}&#xA;&#xA;difference() {&#xA;    myobject();&#xA;    mycut();&#xA;}&#xA;&#xA;translate([u,v,w])&#xA;intersection() {&#xA;    myobject();&#xA;    mycut();&#xA;}&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastEditorUserId="11157" LastEditDate="2019-06-24T15:15:30.327" LastActivityDate="2019-06-24T15:15:30.327" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10358" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10345" CreationDate="2019-06-23T21:41:15.600" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been through the &lt;a href=&quot;/q/6959&quot;&gt;same sort of issues&lt;/a&gt; and eventually found that it was attributed by the cable and connector. Re-check or re-wire the sensor, this helped me out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2019-06-23T21:41:15.600" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10359" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-06-23T22:40:22.520" Score="1" ViewCount="242" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm using Ultimaker Cura on a Manjaro KDE installation with a 4K monitor and a scaling of 1.7.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All text is misaligned in the Ultimaker Cura application. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I make it look as it should ? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QQFlb.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QQFlb.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Text and Icon alignment is offset in Ultimaker Cura application window&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16838" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-06-24T07:24:15.857" LastActivityDate="2019-06-24T07:24:15.857" Title="How to resolve Ultimaker Cura 4.0 messed up display" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|linux|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10360" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10364" CreationDate="2019-06-24T04:56:35.640" Score="4" ViewCount="1050" Body="&lt;p&gt;To minimize retractions and travel when printing several objects, some slicers produce gcode for sequential deposition when each object is built in a traditional manner bottom up layer by layer before starting a new object. Of course, there are limitations caused by the hotend geometry &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZW17O.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZW17O.png&quot; alt=&quot;from simplify 3d website&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt; :&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So bulky hotends don't allow for this trick to be used wen sequential pieces are closer than several centimeters. If there where hotends with minimal end effector geometry (needle like, much like drill bit on CNC) we might even do things like spiralizing contours of a single object. &#xA;This has also potential for other tricks like producing interlacing layers for better layer bonding etc. I wasn't able to find any ongoing work on minimal geometry hotends. Any links? And what might be the challenges in making one? heatblocks and heating cartridges are out of the question but nichrome wire and a fast PID heat controller might do the job.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16841" LastActivityDate="2019-06-27T07:05:26.030" Title="Needle Hotend for nonplanar printing" Tags="|hotend|fdm|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10361" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10349" CreationDate="2019-06-24T08:30:57.613" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Tom's answer is correct, most printers will operate properly with a layer height &lt;em&gt;resolution&lt;/em&gt; of 50 micron, using a 0.4mm nozzle. The resulting surface finish will probably be better than at a coarser layer setting, and at finer layer heights the print quality is likely to deteriorate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Layer height is also likely to be fairly well defined (except for the first layers, overhangs, warping, etc), but this depends on the printer geometry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The detail which is not so well controlled (or measured) is the squish/stretch of the molten plastic as it is extruded. This can have a significant impact on the localised surface finish (as well as dimensions of things like internal diameters).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Accuracy is maybe best assessed by the results of printing various types of test part than by a simple numeric parameter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4927" LastActivityDate="2019-06-24T08:30:57.613" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10362" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="258" CreationDate="2019-06-24T08:45:04.817" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Glass has a very peculiar effect under heating, that can be used to remove extremely delicate parts from the surface of it:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Glass expands and shrinks differently to the ABS under temperature. Letting the glass bed cool down has it shrink, creating tension on the interface layer which can be exploited with a thin scraper. Putting the bed with the print into the fridge increases the tension to a point at which the bonding breaks. This results in the part popping free in several areas (sometimes everywhere) and easing the removal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastActivityDate="2019-06-24T08:45:04.817" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10363" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10349" CreationDate="2019-06-24T09:38:44.930" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;A &lt;strong&gt;resolution&lt;/strong&gt; (sometimes called &quot;accuracy&quot; for marketing purposes) of 0.05 mm means that if you produce a bunch of 10 mm dice and a bunch of 10.05 mm dice, then the 10.05 mm ones will be statistically larger. Note that dice don't have to actually be anywhere near 10 mm, nor does a random die from the 10.05 mm pile have to be larger than a random die from the 10 mm pile.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A &lt;strong&gt;repeatability&lt;/strong&gt; (aka &quot;repeat accuracy&quot;) of 0.05 mm means that in the experiment above every die from the 10.05 mm pile have to be larger than every die from the 10 mm pile. Note that your dice still don't have to be anywhere near actual 10 mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A &lt;strong&gt;precision&lt;/strong&gt; (aka trueness) of 0.05 mm means that in the experiment above the average size of a 10 mm die should be within 9.975..10.025 mm. Note that individual dice don't have to be within that interval.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, the &lt;strong&gt;general accuracy&lt;/strong&gt; (as defined in &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Accuracy_and_precision#ISO_definition_(ISO_5725)&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;ISO 5725&lt;/a&gt;) of 0.05 mm means that every 10 mm die should be within 9.975..10.025 mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To sum it up, the statement from your question is true for the &quot;commercial accuracy&quot;, but not for the general definition of accuracy. For example &lt;a href=&quot;https://theorthocosmos.com/dimensional-accuracy-3d-printers/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; is an article comparing accuracy of 3D printers in dental applications (so we're talking high-end machines), with &lt;em&gt;average&lt;/em&gt; accuracy ranging from 0,05 to 0,1 mm and &lt;em&gt;absolute&lt;/em&gt; accuracy in range of 0,11 to 0,17 mm. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16847" LastEditorUserId="16847" LastEditDate="2019-06-25T13:05:21.767" LastActivityDate="2019-06-25T13:05:21.767" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10364" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10360" CreationDate="2019-06-24T10:01:29.250" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The site is not well-suited to crowd-sourced invention, but the drawbacks to your suggestion are (I think) on topic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The hotend has two main tasks. Accurate control of extrusion, and maintaining the desired volumetric melt rate. One factor which influences extrusion quality is the size of the melt-zone - generally, you want this to be as small as possible because rigid filament is easier to extrude/retract without ooze/stringing. Equally, the melt zone needs to be provided with a thermal mass (physical or virtual) to stabilize its temperature under extrusion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whilst it might be feasible to prototype your concept quite easily, it is likely to be expensive in volume - and there is no great direct advantage. So this is a concept which might enable an area of research but it doesn't look like a development objective with its own intrinsic value.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4927" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2019-06-24T11:17:17.937" LastActivityDate="2019-06-24T11:17:17.937" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10365" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="271" CreationDate="2019-06-24T10:43:52.700" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Try a dilute solution of PVA glue (approx. 5:1 water:PVA) applied to the bed or the BuildTak like sheet and allowed to dry. &#xA;Keep the ambient temperature as high as possible (but not so high as to soften any plastic on the printer obviously). &#xA;Big brims help - consider adding them to the model rather than just applying them in the slicer. I've used 12&amp;nbsp;mm by 0.5&amp;nbsp;mm deep circles to good effect, particularly on acutely angled parts of the model or the extremities.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16788" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-06-24T11:01:39.010" LastActivityDate="2019-06-24T11:01:39.010" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10366" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10360" CreationDate="2019-06-24T11:29:13.657" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;A conventional hot end needs only to be obstruction-free to the desired printing height on two adjacent sides to achieve what you want. The only other requirement is to be able to tell your slicer in what order you want your models to be printed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, if your hot end is free of obstructions on the front and left sides, all that you need to do is lay out your models in a rectilinear grid, and tell your slicer to process them front-to-back, and left-to-right.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have thought of doing this myself. By mounting my E3D V6 hot end as low as I can on its carrier, I should be able to print models up to 50mm in height, and only spaced 20mm apart. I may have to forego part-cooling, but I mainly print PETG without part-cooling, so no problems there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3953" LastEditorUserId="3953" LastEditDate="2019-06-24T15:05:06.350" LastActivityDate="2019-06-24T15:05:06.350" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10367" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-06-24T13:49:46.467" Score="1" ViewCount="196" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am currently involved in drone mapping and photogrammetry. I have taken some aerial images of a site from a drone, and have created a 3D map using DroneDeploy. I exported the 3D model from DroneDeploy as a .obj file and can view the model very well using Preview on my MacBook. However, when I import this .obj file to Fusion 360 or any other online viewing platform, I am unable to see any of the colours from the model. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do I import this file into Fusion 360 along with all the surface colours? Do I need to convert the .obj file to some other format? If so, which formats support surface colours on Fusion?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16850" LastActivityDate="2019-06-24T13:49:46.467" Title="Importing Surface Colours along with .obj files in Fusion 360" Tags="|3d-models|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10368" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10360" CreationDate="2019-06-24T14:50:10.880" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, using a needle to extrude will result in a smaller diameter extrusion. All that is needed is to find a one with a suitable bore size. The problem however is in generating enough hydraulic pressure, needed to extrude hot plastic through a nozzle of that size. If you can form an extruder that can, then go for it. The second problem is that the thin wall of such a nozzle won't have the same &quot;ironing&quot; effect that current nozzles have. From the picture referenced below you can see the nozzle hole and then a ring of metal around it. That ring flattens the filament out into the desired layer which helps with layer adhesion. With out it, the filament might not even stick to the previous layer, or the bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HP4n0.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HP4n0.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;E3D V6, 0.4 mm DIAMONDIZED™ 3D Printer Nozzle from 3dpc.tech&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12857" LastEditorUserId="12857" LastEditDate="2019-06-24T17:48:32.813" LastActivityDate="2019-06-24T17:48:32.813" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10369" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10370" CreationDate="2019-06-24T18:58:46.250" Score="7" ViewCount="878" Body="&lt;p&gt;In 3D printing firmware and slicers, jerk settings are expressed in units if mm/s. This is contrary the physical definition of jerk, which is in units of mm/s³, being the second derivative of speed with respect to time (or the third derivative of position). What is the reason for this discrepancy and how does one interpret jerk in this contect?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-04-26T12:18:00.783" LastActivityDate="2021-04-26T12:20:32.817" Title="Why does jerk have units of mm/s rather than mm/s³?" Tags="|firmware|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10370" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10369" CreationDate="2019-06-24T19:06:41.793" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;The jerk setting in 3D printing G-code and firmware represents a concept similar to, but distinct from, the physical definition of jerk. Rather, it's a [limit on] instantaneous change of speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mathematically, one way to make sense of this is to think that, rather than being the second derivative of speed with respect to time, this &amp;quot;jerk&amp;quot; is the entire remainder of the first-order expansion of speed with respect to time - it corresponds to the second-order term &lt;em&gt;and all higher order terms&lt;/em&gt;. Such terms cannot be combined just as coefficients, since they all have different units corresponding to different powers of time; rather, they can be combined only &lt;em&gt;with their corresponding powers of time&lt;/em&gt;, in which case the resulting unit is mm/s.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-04-26T12:20:32.817" LastActivityDate="2021-04-26T12:20:32.817" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10371" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10393" CreationDate="2019-06-24T19:23:53.813" Score="4" ViewCount="1108" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've recently purchased a Makerbot Replicator Dual clone made by CTC. I'm in the process of upgrading/adding a few parts to it, but noticed that I can't control or print via USB.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The machine prints perfectly from an SD card and I can see information in the terminal from the printer via USB in RepG and through OctoPrint - Such as M105 -  but can't send any .x3g files to print or upgrade firmware (I wanted to flash Sailfish 7.7 eventually).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To clarify;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;In Octoprint&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Temperature auto-reporting is working&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Can send M105, M27, etc.. &amp;amp; get response&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Can select .x3g files from the SD card to print &amp;amp; the printer starts&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Can upload files (.stl, .x3G, .gco etc..) to Octopi, but even the .x3g files wont actually start on the printer.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tried sending &lt;code&gt;M140 T0 S200&lt;/code&gt; &amp;amp; &lt;code&gt;M106 T0 S100&lt;/code&gt; which received OK response, but there was no change reported, or indeed actually happening with the tool&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Terminal Output from OctoPrint at connection:&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Changing monitoring state from &amp;quot;Offline&amp;quot; to &amp;quot;Opening serial port&amp;quot;&#xA;Connected to: &amp;lt;octoprint_GPX.gpxprinter.GpxPrinter instance at 0x6c9a02d8&amp;gt;, starting monitor&#xA;Starting baud rate detection...&#xA;Changing monitoring state from &amp;quot;Opening serial port&amp;quot; to &amp;quot;Detecting baudrate&amp;quot;&#xA;Trying baudrate: 115200&#xA;Recv: start&#xA;Send: N0 M110 N0*125&#xA;Changing monitoring state from &amp;quot;Detecting baudrate&amp;quot; to &amp;quot;Operational&amp;quot;&#xA;Recv:  Makerbot v7.4&#xA;Send: N0 M110 N0*125&#xA;Recv: echo: gcode to x3g translation by GPX&#xA;Recv: SD card ok&#xA;Recv:  T:27 /0 B:21 /0 T0:27 /0 T1:26 /0 @:0 B@:0&#xA;Recv:  T:27 /0 B:20 /0 T0:27 /0 T1:26 /0 @:0 B@:0&#xA;Recv:  T:27 /0 B:21 /0 T0:27 /0 T1:26 /0 @:0 B@:0&#xA;Recv: ok&#xA;Send: N1 M115*39&#xA;Recv: ok PROTOCOL_VERSION:0.1 FIRMWARE_NAME:Makerbot FIRMWARE_VERSION:7.4 FIRMWARE_URL:https://support.makerbot.com/learn/earlier-products/replicator-original/updating-firmware-for-the-makerbot-replicator-via-replicatorg_13302 MACHINE_TYPE:r1d EXTRUDER_COUNT:2&#xA;Send: M21&#xA;Recv: ok&#xA;Recv: SD card ok&#xA;Send: M20&#xA;Recv: ok&#xA;Recv: Begin file list&#xA;Recv: 2GB&#xA;Recv: System Volume Information&#xA;Recv: mesh_bed.stl&#xA;Recv: xyzCalibration_cube.x3g&#xA;Recv: CTCB_3DBenchy.x3g&#xA;Recv: 3DBenchy.x3g&#xA;Recv: ActiveCoolingDuct.x3g&#xA;Recv: CTCB_ActiveDuctD4_UN.x3g&#xA;Recv: UK_TROLLEY_TOKEN.x3g&#xA;Recv: mesh_bed.x3g&#xA;Recv: z-axis-support.x3g&#xA;Recv: bed-screws.x3g&#xA;Recv: spool_nut.x3g&#xA;Recv: 2016_spool.x3g&#xA;Recv: 2016_spool_no_raft.x3g&#xA;Recv: ActiveDuctD4_UN.x3g&#xA;Recv: Z_Axis_Support_Ends.x3g&#xA;Recv: End file list&#xA;Send: M105&#xA;Recv: ok T:27 /0 B:20 /0 T0:27 /0 T1:26 /0 @:0 B@:0&#xA;Send: M105&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;In ReplicatorG&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The software connects to the board via USB and recognises that it is a Mightyboard running f/w 7.4&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Reports that it is an unvarified board&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cannot use the GUI control tab to send commands to the printer&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cannot send sliced .x3g files over USB, console shows a time out error instantly&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Saving .x3g to SD card does work&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is my Mightyboard just a dud, or is there something I can do to try and fix it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason I want to try and solve this now, is that I'm planning on adding active cooling and LED lighting control so don't really want to do all that just to find out that I need to replace the board soon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Additional info&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some information meaning that the current firmware and board is reported, as well as current temperatures of the extruders and heat bed. I can print .x3g files from the SD card, but I can't send G-code commands or .x3g files through USB.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have just tried a few G-code commands through OctoPrint terminal with mixed results. &lt;code&gt;M105&lt;/code&gt; works, &lt;code&gt;M140&lt;/code&gt; &amp;amp; &lt;code&gt;M106&lt;/code&gt; don't.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16855" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:29:41.667" LastActivityDate="2019-07-05T09:54:42.923" Title="Can't control printer via USB" Tags="|firmware|makerbot|usb|mightyboard|x3g|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10372" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10371" CreationDate="2019-06-24T19:44:24.573" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is possible that your board has a cloned FT232R USB-to-serial bridge chip, and FTDI drivers supplied via the Windows update channel will not work with cloned chips. Try using the Windows setup executable from the following page:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.ftdichip.com/Drivers/VCP.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;FTDI Chip: Virtual COM Port Drivers&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that there are no known problems with MacOS and Linux drivers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3953" LastActivityDate="2019-06-24T19:44:24.573" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10375" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10376" CreationDate="2019-06-25T07:49:58.890" Score="5" ViewCount="17269" Body="&lt;p&gt;ABS is a very strong material, but it also has some downsides. One of them, which is the necessity of having a printer with enclosure, completely discouraged me from using it, as it would be a waste of money. This is quite sad, because I cannot make prints that will be able to withstand a large load of tension without breaking. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any way to print ABS without any enclosure? Maybe there are several types of this material and some are easier to print?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16798" LastActivityDate="2019-06-25T15:10:51.327" Title="Is there a way to print with ABS without enclosure?" Tags="|prusa-i3|3d-models|abs|enclosure|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10376" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10375" CreationDate="2019-06-25T08:00:20.087" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is no requirement for an enclosure when printing ABS. Like many things in FDM, there are improvements to be made, but there is a scale of what is possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A heated bed is much more necessary (for similar reasons, the thermal expansion is significant and without a heated bed you have very high risk of warping).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An enclosure is important for high quality, large ABS prints. Otherwise, a warm location which is free of drafts will be fine, particularly for parts which are only a few cm high.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're not using an enclosure, the part cooling fan should probably &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; be used to print ABS. You should also be aware that ABS tends to generate more noticeable fumes than PLA (although this varies with product, and how sensitive you are).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4927" LastEditorUserId="4927" LastEditDate="2019-06-25T09:25:49.847" LastActivityDate="2019-06-25T09:25:49.847" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10377" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-06-25T09:09:19.393" Score="4" ViewCount="312" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have some transparent resin parts printed with a polyjet printer. Where the support contacted the part it has a matte finish. The recommended finishing technique for these parts is to sand them with sandpaper, but the geometry of my part makes that very difficult. What alternatives to sanding do I have, to give these parts a glossy finish?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm looking for techniques appropriate to a home or small office environment. A technique that needs special equipment bigger than a desk is probably not going to work for me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13100" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2019-12-12T22:44:07.743" LastActivityDate="2019-12-12T22:44:07.743" Title="What alternatives are there to sanding resin parts with fine details?" Tags="|post-processing|resin|polyjet-printer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10378" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10345" CreationDate="2019-06-25T10:50:22.490" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is your BL Touch a v3 (likely if you've only just purchased it)? If so, make sure you're using the bugfix version of Marlin 1.1.9, which supposedly fixes the compatibility issues. I say supposedly because there's also a capacitor on the mainboard that can be removed to fix the issue, and once I removed it (and commented out the specific v3 bits in the firmware) the BLTouch performed noticeably better than when relying on the bugfix firmware alone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCbgBDBrwsikmtoLqtpc59Bw&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Teaching Tech on YouTube&lt;/a&gt; has a few BLtouch Ender 3 videos, covering the changes for configuring the bugfix firmware and the removal of the capacitor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16861" LastEditorUserId="16861" LastEditDate="2019-08-01T21:11:38.437" LastActivityDate="2019-08-01T21:11:38.437" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10379" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="210" CreationDate="2019-06-25T10:59:15.330" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently faced the problem of calculating the cost of my printed 3D models. I wanted to know what their real value had to be counted in Excel. It was really inconvenient. Then I found a program for counting, it turned out really great, even takes into account the electricity.  This is not an advertisement just throwing, maybe someone also encountered such a problem.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://codecanyon.net/item/mcc-3d-model-cost-calculation-for-3d-printer/24033425&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://codecanyon.net/item/mcc-3d-model-cost-calculation-for-3d-printer/24033425&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;I was interested in the question who solved the given problem in what ways?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16862" LastActivityDate="2019-06-25T10:59:15.330" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10380" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10371" CreationDate="2019-06-25T13:43:49.720" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Good morning, and welcome to 3D Printing SE.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You said: &quot;I can see information from the printer via USB in RepG and through OctoPrint, but can't send any prints, commands or upgrade firmware (I wanted to flash Sailfish 7.7 eventually).&quot;  This means that the USB communication is working fine.  It isn't a question of drivers or the FTDI interface chip.  That must be working fine or you wouldn't have any USB communication.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would look toward a problem with slight dialect differences in the firmware that is flashed compared with the expectations of the host software.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am not an expert regarding the differences in firmware G-code dialects, but there are at least: Marlin, Repetier, Mach3, LinuxCNC, Machinekit, Smoothie, Makerware, Sailfish.  I got this list from the &lt;a href=&quot;https://slic3r.org/about/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&quot;about&quot;&lt;/a&gt; page for Slic3r.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would start by trying to slice files with different dialects and seeing if one of the resulting G-code files prints.  You may also find a description of the firmware you have flashed with references one of these names, which would save a lot of time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For flashing, you could try dropping back to the Arduino level and use those flashing tools.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More answer in response to the information you have added to the question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;X3G files are not G-code files.  If you are using a control program that expects G-code, it will not be able to handle X3G code.  Similarly, if the printer expects X3G, it may not understand G-code.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Octoprint has an adapter layer that seems to interconvert between g-code and GPX.  You are running this layer.  At about line 11 of the log file you added to the question:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Recv: echo: gcode to x3g translation by GPX&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The GPX add-in may be perfect, and it may cover all version of firmware and all functions.  I don't use it and am unfamiliar with it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To flash your board, I would be reluctant to assume that Octoprint/GPX new how to run that protocol.  I would use the host software supplied by the vendor.  Flashing is an infrequent operation, and add-on software is less likely to have it 100% correct.  If I were writing GPX, I would intentionally make flashing be out-of-scope, since the consequences of doing it wrong could easily be to brick the printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since Octoprint/GPX claims to be able to print to the printer, I would being all software up the respective current versions.  Flash current Sailfish firmware using the supplied host tools.  Update to the current/best version of Octoprint/GPX.  Read the release notes of Octoprint/GPX for known issues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems that X3D files are fairly limited in their use, which will constrain your options to be within the scope of the community that uses X3D files.  I tried to add the X3D tag to your question, but so far no one has created the X3D tag.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Makerbot is part of Stratasys, and should be well supported.  It may be well supported mostly within its ecosystem.  You have a clone of a Makerbot machine, so, even though most or all of the printer parts are open source, you may not be able to use the genuine Makerbot host control software.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your question asked if your controller board was working.  It almost certainly is.  I think you have a software/firmware compatibility problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2082" LastEditorUserId="2082" LastEditDate="2019-06-26T15:02:36.113" LastActivityDate="2019-06-26T15:02:36.113" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10382" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10375" CreationDate="2019-06-25T15:10:51.327" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I print ABS in my basement in an unenclosed Prusa3D i3m3s, just as I print other filaments.  Perhaps an enclosure would be helpful, but I don't have problems as it is.  Your experience may vary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Before that I printed ABS on a large home-brew delta machine.  No problems related to lack of enclosure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Before that I printed ABS on a Thing-o-Matic, also with no problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not saying that every print was perfect, but in the first two (chronologically) cases, the enclosure was not the largest contributor to print artifacts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2082" LastActivityDate="2019-06-25T15:10:51.327" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10384" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10404" CreationDate="2019-06-25T18:53:03.010" Score="4" ViewCount="1156" Body="&lt;p&gt;My anet A8 stepper drivers get very hot after some time printing, so I decided to install a 5V fan to cool them down. I had the idea to get a 12V to 5V regulator to connect a 5V fan, but then i found this image:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ryeyj.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ryeyj.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;anet a8 mainboard&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(source: &lt;a href=&quot;http://lokspace.eu/anet-a8-wifi-mod/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;lokspace.eu&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It looks like the Anet A8 has an ICSP and Serial header that can deliver 5 or 3.3 V directly from the board. Is this correct? If it is, how many amps can i get from this pin? Can I connect a 5V fan directly here?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks and sorry for my bad English.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16868" LastActivityDate="2019-06-27T17:45:37.163" Title="Getting 5V directly from the Anet A8 mainboard" Tags="|anet-a8|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10385" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10384" CreationDate="2019-06-25T19:01:40.020" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;5 V and 3.3 V are both &lt;a href=&quot;https://learn.sparkfun.com/tutorials/logic-levels/33-v-cmos-logic-levels&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;logic &quot;highs&quot;&lt;/a&gt; in computing and measured against GND. If the fan simply has to know the on stance and nothing more, then you could run a fan with the logic 5 V (and probably 3.3 V for about 50% spin speed).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastActivityDate="2019-06-25T19:01:40.020" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10386" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10384" CreationDate="2019-06-25T19:23:21.833" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The 5V is derived from the 12V supply by a linear regulator (L7805CD, DPAK package with 100 C/W thermal resistance). The maximum you can draw from it (without overheating the regulator) is around 200mA. Considering the electronics on the board are already using some power, the maximum would be around a 150mA fan but this would have the regulator running near its maximum limits.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastActivityDate="2019-06-25T19:23:21.833" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10387" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10369" CreationDate="2019-06-25T20:30:04.607" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The units for jerk should be meters per second cubed or m/s&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Meters are the basic unit for &lt;em&gt;distance&lt;/em&gt;. The first derivative is speed, or &lt;em&gt;velocity&lt;/em&gt;, m/s. The second derivative is &lt;em&gt;acceleration&lt;/em&gt;, m/s&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;. The third derivative is &lt;em&gt;jerk&lt;/em&gt;, m/s&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is rate of change in acceleration. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While seldom used, I've only heard it once concerning the Hubble Space telescope, there is a fourth derivative call &lt;em&gt;jounce&lt;/em&gt;, m/s&lt;sup&gt;4&lt;/sup&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16870" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2019-06-26T12:10:11.660" LastActivityDate="2019-06-26T12:10:11.660" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10388" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7038" CreationDate="2019-06-25T23:09:14.510" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;For the Creality Ender 3, I had the same collision problem and after a while I found it was because of the X-axis not being level.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found right hand side was more than 3-4 mm below the left side when the Z-axis height exceeds around 8-10&amp;nbsp;cm. Below that, the two sides were even. I made some calibration by turning the eccentric nuts of the wheels and tighten them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you use Creality Ender 3, that might be the problem. Take a ruler and check between base extrusions and X-axis left/right hand sides at different Z heights.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16714" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2019-06-27T19:18:38.060" LastActivityDate="2019-06-27T19:18:38.060" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10389" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10298" CreationDate="2019-06-26T11:33:21.303" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It seems the problem was because of Z-axis leveling (level of the X-axis), I found out that the right side was more than 3-4&amp;nbsp;mm below the left side when the Z-axis height exceeds around 8-10&amp;nbsp;cm. Below 8-10&amp;nbsp;cm, the two sides were even. I calibrated the X-axis by turning the eccentric nuts of the wheels and tighten them. I will try printing soon with some test objects.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16714" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-06-26T11:45:28.800" LastActivityDate="2019-06-26T11:45:28.800" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10390" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10392" CreationDate="2019-06-26T11:47:10.083" Score="3" ViewCount="297" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've done calibration test with &quot;Concentric circle test&quot; (&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:11895&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:11895&lt;/a&gt;) and at specific points there are little bumped points on the print. Also Thingiverse page of the test mentions about these.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I solve this problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My printer is Creality Ender 3 Pro, I use Esun PLA+ with 210 celcius extruder and 60 celcius bed temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is the printed object, both are same print, just took photo on different base.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/53vd2.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/53vd2.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eqnA7.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eqnA7.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16714" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2019-08-31T08:08:11.343" LastActivityDate="2019-08-31T08:08:11.343" Title="How to solve spillage problem?" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|creality-ender-3|calibration|nozzle|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10391" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10390" CreationDate="2019-06-26T12:40:54.613" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;We had some prints like that recently. Turns out it was caused by the bed not being &quot;level&quot; or &quot;trammed&quot;. Basically the nozzle was too far off the bed when printing started for the first layer. Check yours - a piece of paper should slide between the nozzle and the bed surface, with a little bit of resistance. If it slides freely, the bed needs to be raised some. Check it at the corners and in the middle of the bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16523" LastActivityDate="2019-06-26T12:40:54.613" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10392" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10390" CreationDate="2019-06-26T14:25:25.917" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It looks like you have the bed adjusted too high, smashing the layers together and causing &quot;elephant foot&quot; not just on the bed but also on features - the rings - near the bottom of the print. You might also have over-extrusion, due to an increased material flow setting, actual filament diameter greater than the setting in the slicer, or miscalibration of the E axis steps per mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the second image, it looks like you might have another problem: I think I'm seeing infill lines through the  gaps between the rings, rather than seeing top-surface skin in the bottom of the grooves. If so, this is a bug in Cura's default settings where &quot;skin&quot; in narrow regions is completely lost due to &quot;preshrink&quot;. The skin preshrink values should be set no larger than the nozzle/line width, possibly zero, and skin expansion can be lowered by the same amount or more as long as it remains greater than or equal to the preshrink value. If my assessment of what I'm seeing is correct, fixing it should result in the grooves being supported properly rather than resting on infill lines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What you're seeing is definitely not normal or expected from this printer. Here's what you should be seeing:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qiZXl.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ny5F0.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastEditorUserId="11157" LastEditDate="2019-06-26T21:05:59.240" LastActivityDate="2019-06-26T21:05:59.240" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10393" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10371" CreationDate="2019-06-26T15:05:14.483" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can find gcode information at the &lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/wiki/G-code&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;RepRap wiki&lt;/a&gt;. The obvious other thing to try is &lt;code&gt;G1 X10&lt;/code&gt; for a move.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Octoprint prints by sending the individual file's gcode one line at a time over USB. It appears that the firmware on your printer might not respond to any 'action' commands over gcode, rather than any fault as such with your hardware/software setup.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although your board reports a specific firmware version, it is impossible to know if that firmware was corrupted, or patched by the vendor (and no change reflected in the revision print). Thus, your best option to regain full control might be to flash your own firmware using low-level access. I'm guessing that will require an &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/In-system_programming&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;ICSP&lt;/a&gt; lead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The fact that USB works, and the printer works, tends to suggest that the board is properly functional.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4927" LastActivityDate="2019-06-26T15:05:14.483" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10394" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2019-06-26T15:24:20.827" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;x3g is a 3D printing file format used by Makerbot Replicator printers and various clones.  Unlike G-code which is human readable and coded in ASCII, x3g is a binary format.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This tag should be used if x3g is important to the question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2082" LastEditorUserId="2082" LastEditDate="2019-06-27T15:31:21.917" LastActivityDate="2019-06-27T15:31:21.917" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10395" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2019-06-26T15:24:20.827" Score="0" Body="x3g is binary file format for 3D printer control" OwnerUserId="2082" LastEditorUserId="2082" LastEditDate="2019-06-27T16:12:52.720" LastActivityDate="2019-06-27T16:12:52.720" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10397" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-06-27T01:56:21.893" Score="1" ViewCount="598" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm working on a model in Fusion 360 that has part of the 2d sketch duplicated with the &quot;Rectangular Pattern&quot; tool.  If I try resizing the original object, the duplicates update as expected.  If, however, I try applying a fillet to the object, the pattern constraint is immediately lost and the duplicates don't update.  I'm not seeing any error/warning, but I'm assuming it's running into a similar issue as if you were to delete a line that was part of the duplicated pattern (doing that shows a warning &quot;Deleted geometry is part of a pattern, suppressed the instance or dissolved the pattern.&quot;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a way to alter the object (specifically apply a fillet) and have the duplicates automatically update?  I've done a bit of searching around and I found some suggestions saying that patterns should generally be done on the 3d model instead of the 2d sketch, but in my case I'd like to keep this in the 2d world since there are other sketch pieces that are based on the duplicated portion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a simplified version of the problem I'm running into:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Start with a simple rectangle&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ROXZ2.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ROXZ2.png&quot; alt=&quot;Basic rectangle&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol start=&quot;2&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Using the &quot;Rectangular Pattern&quot; tool in the sketch menu, select the rectangle and create a pattern&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Yqoas.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Yqoas.png&quot; alt=&quot;Duplicated rectangle&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol start=&quot;3&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Using the &quot;Fillet&quot; tool in the sketch menu, click on a corner of the original rectangle.  Notice that the &quot;Rectangular Pattern Constraint&quot; icon is no long below the original rectangle.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lOUjd.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lOUjd.png&quot; alt=&quot;Start applying a fillet to the original rectangle&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol start=&quot;4&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Finish applying the fillet.  Notice that none of the duplicate rectangles have been updated.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/or0Za.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/or0Za.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9659" LastActivityDate="2019-06-27T13:27:59.810" Title="Rectangular pattern constraint is lost when applying a fillet to the sketch object" Tags="|fusion360|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ClosedDate="2019-06-27T22:41:51.540" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10399" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10390" CreationDate="2019-06-27T08:40:54.317" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've not sliced the part in question, but the over extrusion mentioned in the third point (at change of direction/layers) is referring to ooze. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a result of the hydraulic pressure in the melt zone, and results in over extrusion at any point when the print head is moving slowly (and a corresponding under-extrusion once motion resumes). It can be compensated for by &lt;strong&gt;retraction&lt;/strong&gt; and &lt;strong&gt;coasting&lt;/strong&gt; settings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This effect will probably not be visible in the print you have here, there are other effects which are causing more significant defects.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4927" LastActivityDate="2019-06-27T08:40:54.317" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10400" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5285" CreationDate="2019-06-27T09:55:00.993" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Print thinner layers. Also, you did not mention the other dimension of your arm. If you view the globe with the arm to the left, then you have said the thickness in the X direction (left to right) is 6mm. But what about in the Z axis (away from you)? You could make it thicker in that direction to improve its rigidity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16882" LastActivityDate="2019-06-27T09:55:00.993" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10401" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-06-27T13:20:24.720" Score="1" ViewCount="255" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Prusa3D i3m3s.  The problem occurred once before with firmware 3.6.1.  Last night I upgraded to firmware 3.7.1 and repeated the problem almost exactly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The symptom is that at what appears to be the same point in the print in the two failure instances, the extruder stops extruding.  There are a few wisps of filament on both failures.  The print continues to completing.  At the end of the print, the firmware issues an error because the MMU2s can not properly retract the filament.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On analysis, the filament is tightly jammed into the extruder and hot end, almost as if there has been heat creep.  Slow, strong, and steady tension on the filament will withdraw it from the extruder system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The hot end heats normally, and maintains temperature.  When hot, plastic extrudes properly from the hot nozzle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The thermister wires are damaged from an earlier problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The damage points to a thermister-related problem, but a shorted or open thermister is easy to detect in firmware.  I would expect it to throw an error and stop the print.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is:  Does the Prusa3D firmware detect open/shorted thermisters and stop the print?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If a photo is required, I can post that tomorrow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2082" LastActivityDate="2019-07-02T17:57:42.083" Title="How does Prusa3D firmware respond to an open or shorted thermistor during a print?" Tags="|prusa-i3|firmware|thermistor|print-failure|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10402" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10397" CreationDate="2019-06-27T13:27:59.810" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In some CAD packages, this is exactly what I would expect.  Models are constructed by applying operations in a specific order.  The fillet is a separate operation, and is not part of the base rectangle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The base rectangle is defined.&#xA;You pattern the base rectangle.&#xA;You define a fillet using the base rectangle as the reference.  The fillet affects only that one rectangle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;OTOH, when you modify the base rectangle all are changed because the base rectangle is defined before the patterning operation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can apply the fillet before the patterning, it may work as you wish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2082" LastActivityDate="2019-06-27T13:27:59.810" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10403" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-06-27T15:31:19.463" Score="1" ViewCount="3699" Body="&lt;p&gt;When trying calibration prints, I printed something with 240 celcius on magnetic heatbed and when removing the object, because it sticked very hard on surface, it uplifted surface of magnetic bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So when printing first layers, nozzle touches the bed when it's passing on that points.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any way to fix this? I'm thinking about ironing the magnetic bed but not sure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16714" LastActivityDate="2019-06-27T18:39:08.213" Title="Fixing uplifted magnetic heatbed surface" Tags="|heated-bed|creality-ender-3|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10404" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10384" CreationDate="2019-06-27T17:45:37.163" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You would be better to use a 12V fan.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The 5V is for powering logic.  It should not have motor loads, even fan motor loads, applied to it.  You will not be saving power over using a 12V fan.  According to @Tom 's answer, the 5V is derived through a linear regulator.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A linear regulator has the property that the current drawn from the regulator at 5V will equal the current drawn by the regulator at 12V.  &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$7/12$&lt;/span&gt;'ths of the power will be lost in the regulator chip as heat, which may cause the chip to overheat if there is not enough cooling margin in the thermal design.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you use a 12V fan the current consumption of the fan for the same cooling capacity will be lower, and you won't waste more energy dropping the voltage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;May I ask how hot the steppers are?  Too hot to comfortably hold for more than a few seconds may still be completely acceptable for motors.  So hot that the plastic holding them melts is too hot for the mounting, but may still be ok for the motor.  So hot that they cause burns with 5 second contact is probably too hot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the motors are too hot, it might be better to check the current the motor drivers are programmed to deliver (either through software configuration or a potentiometer -- I don't know the printer).  Getting the current right is a better fix that managing the excess heat.  It may also improve the linearity of microstepping and improve print quality.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2082" LastActivityDate="2019-06-27T17:45:37.163" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10405" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10403" CreationDate="2019-06-27T18:39:08.213" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Ender 3 Pro bed looks like a sheet of steel with a stick-on plastic sheet.  If the steel plate is bent, you would probably be happier to buy another one.  If the plastic film has lifted off the bed, you might be happier to buy a new plate, although there are sheets of film with adhesive available.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are printing small objects, you can plate them other than in the center.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the problem is that the central bump screws up auto-leveling, try ironing while you are waiting for the new one to arrive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I looked on the Creality site but did not find listings for spare parts.  You may need to be a customer to see that part of the catalog.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ironing it might work.  The adhesive is probably good for 110 C.  I say that because the specs for the Prusa3D bed are similar.  I looked up the 3M product used for the PEI surface and found that the adhesive was the limiting factor at 110 C.  The PEI was good for a higher temperature.  If ironing doesn't work, buy another one.  If ironing does, come back and answer your own question so the information is preserved.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2082" LastActivityDate="2019-06-27T18:39:08.213" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10406" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10328" CreationDate="2019-06-27T19:34:58.397" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd second printing slow and near as hot as your filament can stand and still hold shapes in test runs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Extruding thin has worked well for me in cases with ABS pull/shrinkage. I've also had luck heating up the environment my printer is in. ABS stays gummy above 105C (its Tg is around there), so I've had good luck running my deck at 105C, and either setting up my print so that parts that were likely to have problems are close to the heat element (on my Ender 3 it's the ~5cm in the center of the plate) or using other external heat (with no fan). [Note to people who might want to try external heat: ABS is flammable - stick with other methods unless you feel sure you understand the safety factors.]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;ABS grinds down nicely - if it's feasible, consider making these parts thicker/adding a raft on a super hot deck, so you can print much hotter, then sanding to your desired shape.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lastly, and least elegantly: I'm not sure if this is possible - depends on the exact project - but you might think about ways to print these parts separately (close to the hot deck) for connection post-printing. ABS is acetone-soluble, so it's pretty straight-forward to melt some spare bits, and voilà: glue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck! ABS is a pretty sweet polymer - don't give up on that project just yet!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16741" LastActivityDate="2019-06-27T19:34:58.397" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10407" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-06-27T22:09:58.923" Score="3" ViewCount="2282" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've never used a printer with auto bed leveling, but my understanding is that most or all of them don't actually level anything, but rather compensate for the unlevel bed in firmware by transforming the coordinates. It seems to me this would necessarily introduce aliasing artifacts in all your prints by making it so that line widths are no longer a whole number of microsteps - I immediately observed such an effect on top/bottom skin when I tried to use steps-per-mm tweaking in firmware to compensate for a dimensional error rather than fixing the mechanical source of the error, and concluded that it was a dead-end approach.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the auto-leveling firmware only makes adjustments with the Z motor as it moves, rather than transforming all three coordinates, it seems like that would be mostly or entirely mitigated, but with slight errors in dimensional accuracy dependent on how tilted the bed actually is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do any of the printers with (or add-on kits for) auto bed leveling actually level the bed mechanically, with servos attached to the adjustment knobs? Why isn't an approach like that more common?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastEditorUserId="11157" LastEditDate="2021-01-26T15:26:47.033" LastActivityDate="2021-01-26T15:26:47.033" Title="Auto physical bed leveling?" Tags="|bed-leveling|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10408" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10407" CreationDate="2019-06-27T22:20:09.620" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The rail core II does this by having a 3 separate stepper motor + lead screws attached to the bed. Along with a z probe this allows the bed to leveled automatically. Although this will not make the bed any flatter meaning it will only align the bed in the correct XY plane with respect to the gantry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.kraegar.com/railcoreii&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.kraegar.com/railcoreii&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11097" LastActivityDate="2019-06-27T22:20:09.620" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10409" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10407" CreationDate="2019-06-27T22:20:25.657" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Automatic bed levelling is not magic; it still requires you to level the bed properly (as level as possible). The upside of automatic bed levelling is that it compensates for small deviations like a slightly slanted surface or a (somewhat large) dent in the surface (as long it is probed and can be digitized by the firmware). It will keep the nozzle at a distance to the bed that it maintains proper distance to the bed for the filament to adhere properly (first layer adherence is key for successful prints). The slight imperfections are smeared out over about 10&amp;nbsp;mm (set in the firmware), this way you do not need transformations for the whole print (so if you deliberately make the bed very skew, the print will follow the Z axis, not the direction perpendicular to the bed).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While systems to level or align the bed exist, it is not very practical and expensive as it requires more parts, that is why it is not commonly used. Apart from the suggested printer in &lt;a href=&quot;/a/10408&quot;&gt;this answer&lt;/a&gt;, printers with e.g. 4 ball screw Z movement lead screws exist (mostly printers for companies, not for use at home); ball screws are way more expensive, but also way more accurate than trapezoidal lead screws. A low accuracy is preferable as such systems generally have no guiding linear rods (as that would mean that you fix the plane/alignment of the build platform!).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-06-28T08:13:32.340" LastActivityDate="2019-06-28T08:13:32.340" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10410" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10413" CreationDate="2019-06-27T23:05:15.583" Score="2" ViewCount="187" Body="&lt;p&gt;How should I describe this part which looks like a small gear so that I can research replacements?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/51BdD.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/51BdD.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;image of a pulley&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This came with my FLSUN 3D printer, which may be based on a Prusa design.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10369" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-06-28T15:14:13.307" LastActivityDate="2019-06-29T22:10:43.567" Title="What part is this? Circular threading spool gear, about 10 mm diameter" Tags="|replacement-parts|part-identification|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10411" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10410" CreationDate="2019-06-27T23:13:30.080" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is an &quot;aluminum timing  pulley&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/search?psb=1&amp;amp;tbm=shop&amp;amp;q=aluminum%20timing%20pulley&amp;amp;ved=0CAMQr4sDKAFqFwoTCMis1KHmiuMCFRoMswAdMqUElxAB&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.google.com/search?psb=1&amp;amp;tbm=shop&amp;amp;q=aluminum%20timing%20pulley&amp;amp;ved=0CAMQr4sDKAFqFwoTCMis1KHmiuMCFRoMswAdMqUElxAB&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.ebay.com/i/152446519860?chn=ps&amp;amp;var=453435947176&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.ebay.com/i/152446519860?chn=ps&amp;amp;var=453435947176&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10369" LastEditorUserId="10369" LastEditDate="2019-06-27T23:19:36.940" LastActivityDate="2019-06-27T23:19:36.940" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10413" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10410" CreationDate="2019-06-28T07:44:41.173" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a timing belt pulley.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Specifically, is a GT2 timing pulley, 2&amp;nbsp;mm pitch (between teeth), 6&amp;nbsp;mm wide. The drive diameter is measured by the number of teeth (16 in this case) , the shaft diameter (bore) is measured in mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The 'GT2' part refers to the tooth profile, some other examples are shown half way down &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.pfeiferindustries.com/timing-belt-identification-and-replacement&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this page&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4927" LastEditorUserId="4927" LastEditDate="2019-06-29T22:10:43.567" LastActivityDate="2019-06-29T22:10:43.567" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10414" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10407" CreationDate="2019-06-28T07:52:43.400" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The only 'consumer' approach to this would be providing adjustment feedback to the user, after the bed has been probed to determine an optimal position so that most of the bed is in the same plane.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This seems to me like a 'free' enhancement, but users don't seem to be overly worried by the distortions introduced (or perform the calibrations manually already).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4927" LastActivityDate="2019-06-28T07:52:43.400" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10416" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10407" CreationDate="2019-06-28T14:45:20.233" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;A delta machine does not natively have cartesian planes in its coordinate space.  &quot;The bed&quot; is a mathematical abstraction that must match the physical bed plane.  Small mechanical errors or offsets distort the expected planar abstraction to introduce wave, cup, and bowl artifacts.  &quot;Leveling the bed&quot; for a delta consists of calibrating out those distortions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A delta machine is constantly adding small positional quantification artifacts to the print.  This could be beneficial, as there is a small constant noise introduced into the position of the print, rather than jumps which are a simple function of position.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A delta machine could adjust the z-axis to be perpendicular to the observed bed with no additional print artifacts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2082" LastActivityDate="2019-06-28T14:45:20.233" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10417" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-06-28T15:22:54.970" Score="3" ViewCount="1873" Body="&lt;p&gt;My Ender 3, and I think lots of printers, have 4 bed leveling adjusstments, one at each corner. It seems to me that having 4 points produces an over-determined system, making it confusing to get the leveling right - adjusting one of the four may have little or no effect, but then cause a later adjustment elsewhere to have effects that violate a least-surprise principle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would it be better to have only three points? Or is the fourth necessary/useful with non-completely-rigid bed structures to add rigidity?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2023-04-01T16:23:18.387" Title="Is having 4 bed leveling adjustment points rather than 3 problematic?" Tags="|printer-building|bed-leveling|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10418" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10417" CreationDate="2019-06-28T15:38:15.243" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Similar reasoning as for question &lt;a href=&quot;/q/10231&quot;&gt;&lt;em&gt;&amp;quot;3 vs 4 bearings for y axis travel&amp;quot;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&amp;quot; holds. If you introduce a fourth point, it is more difficult to make a flat plane.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Provided that your bed is stiff, e.g. a flat piece of glass, or a thick metal plate is used, you do not need more than 3 screws. Both my custom built printers use pieces of glass on aluminium heated beds that use three screws for levelling, the third screw is located in the middle of 2 corner points.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your bed is thin (e.g. thin heated bed with tape, so no glass) and flexible or warped, an extra screw might be handy to deform the bed to a more flat plane, but it is more difficult to level.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2023-04-01T13:46:42.093" LastActivityDate="2023-04-01T13:46:42.093" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10420" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10422" CreationDate="2019-06-28T17:00:23.707" Score="1" ViewCount="156" Body="&lt;p&gt;I burnt the Z- port for the Z endstop. Can I use the Z+ port? I'm using Jim Brown's Marlin firmware. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any help to change that is highly appreciated. I know nothing about code. Sorry for my ignorance. I'm new on this 3D printing universe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16891" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2019-06-28T17:59:02.977" LastActivityDate="2019-06-28T18:21:54.783" Title="Tevo tarantula Z- port burnt" Tags="|z-axis|endstop|tevo-tarantula|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10421" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10346" CreationDate="2019-06-28T18:14:04.750" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's worth remembering that the smaller the fraction of the step, the less torque is going to be available at that step. &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.machinedesign.com/archive/microstepping-myths&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here is one link&lt;/a&gt; but there are many others that explain it as well. it looks to me like you have inconsistent friction in your system, or possibly some flex/warping of the frame. it might also be easier to see with a smaller nozzle&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;edit because i forgot to actually answer the question: no, by itself it does not indicate that smoothers would help. this does not mean that they wont, just that this does not look definitive to me&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12706" LastEditorUserId="12706" LastEditDate="2019-06-28T18:26:37.857" LastActivityDate="2019-06-28T18:26:37.857" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10422" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10420" CreationDate="2019-06-28T18:21:54.783" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Assuming &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/JimBrown/MarlinTarantula/blob/EasyConfig-2.0.x/config/default/Configuration.h#line585&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;line 585&lt;/a&gt; of &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/JimBrown/MarlinTarantula/blob/EasyConfig-2.0.x/config/default/Configuration.h&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Configuration.h&lt;/a&gt; looks like this&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;// Almost all printers will be using one per axis. Probes will use one or more of the&#xA;// extra connectors. Leave undefined any used for non-endstop and non-probe purposes.&#xA;#define USE_XMIN_PLUG&#xA;#define USE_YMIN_PLUG&#xA;#define USE_ZMIN_PLUG&#xA;//#define USE_XMAX_PLUG&#xA;//#define USE_YMAX_PLUG&#xA;//#define USE_ZMAX_PLUG&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That is to say, if the Maximum endstop ports/plugs aren't currently being used, then you could just redefine the pin used by &lt;code&gt;ZMIN&lt;/code&gt; (Z-) to be that currently being used by the &lt;code&gt;ZMAX&lt;/code&gt; (Z+), in the appropriate &lt;code&gt;pins_XXXX.h&lt;/code&gt; file (contained within &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/JimBrown/MarlinTarantula/tree/EasyConfig-2.0.x/Marlin/src/pins&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;MarlinTarantula/Marlin/src/pins/&lt;/a&gt;), where &lt;code&gt;XXXX&lt;/code&gt; depends upon which board you have (I don't know what board your printer has).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, if you have a RAMPS board then in &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/JimBrown/MarlinTarantula/blob/EasyConfig-2.0.x/Marlin/src/pins/pins_RAMPS.h&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;pins_RAMPS.h&lt;/a&gt; at &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/JimBrown/MarlinTarantula/blob/EasyConfig-2.0.x/Marlin/src/pins/pins_RAMPS.h#line79&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;line 79&lt;/a&gt; you would change&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;//&#xA;// Limit Switches&#xA;//&#xA;#define X_MIN_PIN           3&#xA;#ifndef X_MAX_PIN&#xA;  #define X_MAX_PIN         2&#xA;#endif&#xA;#define Y_MIN_PIN          14&#xA;#define Y_MAX_PIN          15&#xA;#define Z_MIN_PIN          18&#xA;#define Z_MAX_PIN          19&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;to become (note the change in the last two lines)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;//&#xA;// Limit Switches&#xA;//&#xA;#define X_MIN_PIN           3&#xA;#ifndef X_MAX_PIN&#xA;  #define X_MAX_PIN         2&#xA;#endif&#xA;#define Y_MIN_PIN          14&#xA;#define Y_MAX_PIN          15&#xA;#define Z_MIN_PIN          19&#xA;#define Z_MAX_PIN          18&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then compile and reflash the firmware.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously you would then plug the Z_MIN (Z-) wire from the endstop into the Z_MAX (Z+) port.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4762" LastActivityDate="2019-06-28T18:21:54.783" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10423" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10377" CreationDate="2019-06-28T18:48:16.637" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;desktop tumbler/brass polisher, rotary rock tumblers are probably a better option than a small sandblasting cabinet. choose your abrasive material from there, a coarse sand is probably not what you want but there are walnut based things and finer grit materials that should be able to get a nice shine. if you would rather do it manually and geometry allows you can try a dremel-type rotary tool with a buffing wheel or similar&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12706" LastActivityDate="2019-06-28T18:48:16.637" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10424" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-06-28T19:29:18.490" Score="1" ViewCount="51" Body="&lt;p&gt;With no answer to my question two days ago about how the Prusa printer behaves with an intermittent open or shorted thermistor, I'd like to ask this question of relative last resort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Prusa seems to have some version of their i3 software posted on Github.  Should I expect this to be current, or some older version?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Have you rebuilt, reflashed, and operated with rebuilt Prusa firmware?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If so, what tips would you offer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I ask because once I open something like that up, I inevitably am seduced into making changes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2082" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-06-29T07:42:29.100" LastActivityDate="2019-06-29T07:42:29.100" Title="Has anyone rebuilt Prusa3D firmware for the Genuine Pruse i3m3s?" Tags="|prusa-i3|firmware|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10425" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10424" CreationDate="2019-06-29T01:58:01.283" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/prusa3d/Prusa-Firmware&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Prusa Firmware&lt;/a&gt; on GitHub is the very latest version -- it's the code repository Prusa uses for development.  My suggestion is that you don't use it unless you're planning to do firmware development or testing, because like any such software, it tends to have bugs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="48" LastActivityDate="2019-06-29T01:58:01.283" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10426" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10446" CreationDate="2019-06-29T19:30:49.533" Score="2" ViewCount="126" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have issues with this overhang:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7dMhQ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Damaged overhang&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7dMhQ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Damaged overhang&quot; title=&quot;Damaged overhang&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The whole part always breaks in this overhang during the print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried to increase the count of wall lines and decrease printing speed, but none of those things help. Do you have any idea how to fix it? Is possible to create support inside a model to print this overhang?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(I´m using Cura 4.1.0.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I´m using 3 wall´s lines and 15% gyroid infill. My bed has 70&amp;nbsp;°C and nozzle 205&amp;nbsp;°C. I am using PLA Prusament galaxy black.  The part is oriented the right way. By overhang I mean damaged part above holes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16900" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2019-07-01T10:56:30.323" LastActivityDate="2019-07-01T10:56:30.323" Title="Damaged overhang" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|pla|stability|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10427" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10434" CreationDate="2019-06-29T20:29:18.267" Score="3" ViewCount="11741" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've seen conflicting advice on the correct printing temperature for Microcenter's house-brand Inland PLA+, particularly after a supplier change announced in April 2018.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's an &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/comments/89grfm/psa_on_our_micro_center_inland_filament/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;official post from Microcenter&lt;/a&gt;, where they state that their PLA+ from both the suppliers they use prints best from 215-225&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C. (The label on the spool specifies 205-225&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I've run a series of Benchy prints with recently-purchased white inland PLA+ at different temperatures (with a Lulzbot SL toolhead and 0.1&amp;nbsp;mm layer depth, slicing by Cura LE 3.6.10 after repairing the STL with &lt;a href=&quot;https://tools3d.azurewebsites.net&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Microsoft's repair tool&lt;/a&gt;, movement 30&amp;nbsp;mm/sec), and my experience is very different:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;220&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C has very severe stringing and blobbing, including blobbing on top surfaces. The text on the base is not visible at all.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;215&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C has substantial stringing and blobbing, particularly on inside surfaces, but not on the roof of the boat (except the prow). The text on the base is partially visible.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;210&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C looks very good; there are some tiny blobs on the nameplate and the inside door, and no stringing. This was the first one that didn't require a razor blade to remove from the PEI surface. The text on the base is very clear.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;205&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C looks great.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is something wrong with my equipment, such that it's printing with a higher temperature than it reads? Is Microcenter's advice off? Could I have a batch that behaves differently than is expected for the same filament in general?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More to the point -- what advice do others have to get good results with Inland PLA+?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16371" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-07-02T13:08:54.903" LastActivityDate="2019-07-02T13:08:54.903" Title="Inland PLA+ stringing badly at manufacturer-recommended temperature ranges" Tags="|filament|pla+|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10428" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-06-29T20:54:03.913" Score="2" ViewCount="2410" Body="&lt;p&gt;As discussed previously on a post, &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10420/tevo-tarantula-z-port-burnt&quot;&gt;Tevo tarantula Z- port burnt&lt;/a&gt;, I've burnt one of my Z endstops ports (I solved this issue and I'm using the Z+ port, normally).&#xA;I did that trying to install an auto bed leveling sensor. I don't want to mess up again...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a LJ18A3-8-Z/BX NPN sensor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Brown wire is connected to the N (+) of the power supply, blue and black wire connected as shown in the picture (pay attention to the red markings on the white wire):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZnGe5.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZnGe5.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6HspA.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6HspA.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Q5CNw.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Q5CNw.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any advice about the wiring is welcome. But I hope it's right, I've read in several places&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; that this type of sensor doesn't require any kind of resistor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm using the last version of Jim Brown firmware.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here it is what I've changed so far:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&#xA;//#define BLTOUCH       // ANTClabs BLTouch sensor (might also work with clones)&#xA;//#define BLTOUCH_V3    // ANTCLabs BLTouch sensor version 3&#xA;//#define SN04          // Green sensor&#xA;#define INDUCTIVE_NO  // Normally open inductive sensor&#xA;//#define INDUCTIVE_NC  // Normally closed inductive sensor&#xA;//#define SERVO_PROBE   // Endstop switch on rotating arm. Set servo angles!&#xA;//#define NOZZLE_PROBE  // Nozzle wired up to contact metal on bed&#xA;&#xA;//#define TRIPOINT&#xA;//#define LINEAR&#xA;//#define BILINEAR&#xA;#define UBL&#xA;//#define MANUAL&#xA;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's go to my issues:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Before flashing this configs, the sensor's LED would go on near metal and off far from metal. With this new config the LED remains off until I place the sensor near metal... But after it goes on, it remains on, even when far from metal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;When I home the axis, I try to simulate the position of the Z axis, holding the sensor close to a metal plate. But the Z axis moves up... up... up... Doesn't matter what I do with the sensor (hold close or distant from metal). Until some point and it stops.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So far nothing is fried and I'm trying to make it work right now. It seems to me (based on what I read) that a NPN sensor really doesn't need anything. Just plug on the power supply and board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So... basically, as you can see, I have no idea of what I'm doing. I hope someone can help me...&#xA;I've tried to find answers and figure it out by myself. I'm not being lazy here...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sub&gt;BTW I'm wondering if Jim Brown is still better than the official Marlin Firmware... So I'm willing to change it if that is the opinion of the pros! &lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Footnote&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; For example, in the &lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?406,660029,662465#msg-662465&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;second post&lt;/a&gt; to &lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?406,660029&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;How do I wire my lj18A3-8-Z/BX to my prusa? going insane&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16891" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:29:41.667" LastActivityDate="2019-07-05T15:45:03.470" Title="Tevo Tarantula auto bed leveling config" Tags="|tevo-tarantula|inductive-sensor|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10429" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-06-29T22:07:56.140" Score="0" ViewCount="39" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm thinking about doing a print to go inside a vehicle. I have PLA at hand, ready to go. Is that gonna work, or will the hot temperatures we sometimes get inside cars on sunny summer days cause the PLA to go soft? If so, what other material should I try?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12562" LastActivityDate="2019-06-29T22:07:56.140" Title="Will the inside of a vehicle be too hot for PLA?" Tags="|pla|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2019-06-30T00:04:29.877" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10430" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10427" CreationDate="2019-06-30T01:20:24.493" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;A portion of information missing from the manufacturer's specifications and in the question is the print speed. You could have slower speeds than the manufacturer used to perform the tests, which requires lower temperatures to reduce the &quot;flow rate&quot; of the plastic to an acceptable level. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In some cases, I use as low as 20 mm per second print speed, others can be as high as 60 mm per second. At the higher speeds, I will increase the temperature five degrees C to ensure that the hot end can keep up with the increased filament extrusion. Alternatively, slower speeds need lower temperatures. The variation may not be larger as described for your system. You've already experienced a substantial difference based on your posted numbers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It would be unrealistic to collect others' experiences with a specific brand unless color choice, print speed, printer model/hot end model, etc are also collected. Let's include part cooling fan settings as well to complicate the task even more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can consider to check the great Thingiverse library for temperature test models. These files are used to print various segments at different temperatures. Due to the above noted factors, you may find your result can be clustered or may find they cannot, based on color, manufacturer, age, etc. It is a valuable resource to improve your printing results, however.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastActivityDate="2019-06-30T01:20:24.493" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10432" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10441" CreationDate="2019-06-30T10:04:45.887" Score="1" ViewCount="2670" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just set up a refurbished &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=29417&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;MP Select Mini V2&lt;/a&gt; and tried to print the test file included by the manufacturer, &lt;code&gt;cat.gcode&lt;/code&gt;, from the included SD card. I printed in PLA (I think; the unlabeled sample included with the printer) at the default extruder temperature, 190&amp;nbsp;°C. The print bed was set to 50&amp;nbsp;°C.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It appeared to print the raft fine, and then a couple of layers of the cat. At this point I walked away, and when I came back a few minutes later here's what I found:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UuaCr.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UuaCr.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Printer with awful mess&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The raft is still stuck to the bed, but the layers of cat that were printed fell off the base and onto the floor. Here's what I picked up off the floor, (next to the detached raft):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/omh6M.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/omh6M.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Raft and mangled print&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The raft was stuck on the bed just fine, so I don't think it's an adhesion issue. The bed and the desk the printer is sitting on are both very close to level (things don't slide or roll off). There's no breeze and I'm certain nothing bumped or touched the printer while it was running.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is my first attempt at a print so I obviously have no idea what I'm doing. I'm planning to set up a camera to record the next attempt. What other troubleshooting can I do? What is the likely cause of this problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16902" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-12-10T05:50:56.820" LastActivityDate="2019-12-10T05:50:56.820" Title="Why did my print fall off its raft?" Tags="|troubleshooting|print-failure|rafts|monoprice-select-mini|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10434" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10427" CreationDate="2019-06-30T10:45:57.107" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Even as PLA+ contains some additives, each printer is different. We usually never know what the actual temperature of the printhead is, but if your printer prints good at 205 °C, despite the manufacturer claiming you should use a little more temperature, use it. It might be the perfect combination of temperature and speed for &lt;strong&gt;your&lt;/strong&gt; printer. Your printer is not the benchmark machine the manufacturer of the filament used, and we have no idea what speeds they used if they had an enclosure and what style of hotend they used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastActivityDate="2019-06-30T10:45:57.107" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10435" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-06-30T17:02:25.913" Score="-1" ViewCount="162" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am using Ultimaker Cura (4.1.0) as slicer and a Monoprice Maker Select 3D printer and have noticed that the reported print times when slicing are something like 25&amp;nbsp;% less than the actual time it takes to print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there some practicality factor involved here? Have I failed to enter all relevant printer properties in Ultimaker Cura? Are these reported times not actually meant to correspond to reality?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any insight is gratefully received.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9201" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-10-28T10:06:33.563" LastActivityDate="2019-10-28T10:06:33.563" Title="Print times not accurate (Ultimaker Cura)" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|monoprice-maker-select|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2019-06-30T22:03:10.093" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10437" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-06-30T18:33:02.347" Score="4" ViewCount="1438" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm new to 3D printing. I modeled an empty bird in Blender (the stl file of model is presented). I tested the model in Blender (using 3D printing tool) and also the Netfabb software. They don't show any error. However, when I load this model in Ultimaker Cura for printing, as shown in the last image, the result is only a cylinder shape bird. I have seen many 3D printed empty models on internet.  Why can't my model be printed correctly?&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.dropbox.com/s/ymhpc8c1qne1i2c/bird_model.stl?dl=0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;the download link of the model&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EB3Tq.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;The top view of the model in Blender&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EB3Tq.png&quot; alt=&quot;The top view of the model in Blender&quot; title=&quot;The top view of the model in Blender&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5Xu4F.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;The bottom view of the model in Blender&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5Xu4F.png&quot; alt=&quot;The bottom view of the model in Blender&quot; title=&quot;The bottom view of the model in Blender&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9bVef.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;The 3D printing parameters in Blender&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9bVef.png&quot; alt=&quot;The 3D printing parameters in Blender&quot; title=&quot;The 3D printing parameters in Blender&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fh4q8.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;The model in Cura&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fh4q8.png&quot; alt=&quot;The model in Cura&quot; title=&quot;The model in Cura&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/evekb.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;The 3D printing preview of model in Cura&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/evekb.png&quot; alt=&quot;The 3D printing preview of model in Cura&quot; title=&quot;The 3D printing preview of model in Cura&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16633" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2020-07-13T10:40:32.887" LastActivityDate="2020-07-13T10:40:32.887" Title="Problem in 3D printing of an empty model" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|3d-design|blender|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10438" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10448" CreationDate="2019-06-30T18:54:04.080" Score="1" ViewCount="224" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm working on something that I'll share once it's done (then hope it's not a disaster and actually useful to someone).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It requires a stepper to rotate a part by a certain amount of degrees, which I plan to achieve by using E1 and simply issuing an appropriate &lt;code&gt;G0&lt;/code&gt; command.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The issue I'm having is that I would need Marlin, upon start to check if the part is actually rotated to the 0 deg position.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suspect that there is no way to i.e. use an unused Z max pin and issue something like the well known &lt;code&gt;G28&lt;/code&gt; or like Duet3D does with &lt;code&gt;G0/1 S&lt;/code&gt; parameter. Is there maybe a hack I can apply with a filament run out sensor as that axis endstop?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14570" LastEditorUserId="14570" LastEditDate="2019-07-01T15:37:19.297" LastActivityDate="2019-07-01T15:37:19.297" Title="Home E / extrude until endstop is triggered" Tags="|extruder|endstop|axis|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10439" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10461" CreationDate="2019-06-30T18:54:10.533" Score="4" ViewCount="2208" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm printing part for a chess board from a set on Thingiverse, expanded a little to 50&amp;nbsp;mm square.&#xA;After the 3&lt;sup&gt;rd&lt;/sup&gt; layer, I'm seeing what looks like raised ripples, and you can feel them with a finger too.  I didn't see this when printing just 4 pieces earlier.&#xA;PLA at ~200&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C, bed is PEX/flex steel/magnet/AL.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TK9ZG.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TK9ZG.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The initial layer also had some streakiness (?) after the 1&lt;sup&gt;st&lt;/sup&gt; layer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Odd, as the bed tests out as pretty level using the paper under the nozzle test.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HYaQp.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HYaQp.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looking much better now that the infill is starting.  Will have to look into calibrating the extruder when this print finishes. Printed a 6 hour iPhone stand yesterday, turned out really nice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/abdqo.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/abdqo.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Top layer is nearing done (looks like top layer is finishing, then the lip to go for the edge of the board) and all signs of the rippling are gone.&#xA;Will check the 'level' again before we start on the light color squares.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Obcff.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Obcff.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16523" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-07-02T06:12:21.803" LastActivityDate="2019-07-02T06:12:21.803" Title="Ripple in layers" Tags="|print-quality|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2019-07-03T12:41:34.553" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10440" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10439" CreationDate="2019-06-30T19:00:31.303" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It looks like over-extrusion. When layers are printed with 100% infill, excess material has nowhere to go and these characteristic ripples form.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Always calibrate your extruder. 3D Hubs have a good article on the topic:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.3dhubs.com/talk/t/howto-calibrate-tune-and-fine-tune-your-printer-and-filament/5695&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;How To Calibrate, Tune and Fine Tune your printer and filament&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3953" LastEditorUserId="3953" LastEditDate="2019-06-30T19:16:43.603" LastActivityDate="2019-06-30T19:16:43.603" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10441" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10432" CreationDate="2019-06-30T19:16:55.117" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your trouble lies within the presliced G-code: the temperatures are rather low for PLA and upping both by 10 degrees would be advisable:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;200 °C for the Hotend&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;60 °C for the Bed&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Atop that, printing a raft for PLA is usually not advisable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Get yourself a slicer (the most common free ones I am comfortable with using are Cura, Slic3r and Slic3r Prusa Edition) and either import a fitting profile and create your own profile, then slice the &lt;code&gt;.stl&lt;/code&gt;-model yoruself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastActivityDate="2019-06-30T19:16:55.117" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10442" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10435" CreationDate="2019-06-30T19:29:08.713" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most likely Ultimaker Cura is not aware of the firmware's default limits on acceleration or jerk. Make sure they match either by increasing the printer's limits or decreasing the ones in the print profile to match.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-06-30T21:53:42.387" LastActivityDate="2019-06-30T21:53:42.387" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10443" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10437" CreationDate="2019-06-30T21:46:50.630" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Slicers don't do well with &amp;quot;empty&amp;quot; (hollow) bodies, or bodies with secret holes in it. You need to supply a filled body&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;, the slicer will make it mostly empty anyways (depending on the infill percentage). Also, you need to have infill, else the top cannot be printed as it does not have any support.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Footnote&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; This means the body has to have one continuous surface without gaps or holes that encloses a volume. Among the most simple examples are spheres and cubes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:29:41.667" LastActivityDate="2019-07-01T21:00:49.540" CommentCount="5" CommunityOwnedDate="2019-07-01T11:06:13.867" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10444" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-07-01T05:12:04.783" Score="4" ViewCount="1723" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been trying to print some eSun PETG on my Ender 3 with some questionable results. I am experiencing severe stringing. Attached is a photo of my first layer.&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bhFsR.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bhFsR.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt; My settings are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;250&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C hotend&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;80&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C bed&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;0.15&amp;nbsp;mm first layer&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;0.2&amp;nbsp;mm layer height&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;No Z-hop/retraction&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;40&amp;nbsp;mm/s print speed&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;50&amp;nbsp;% fan speed&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any suggestions?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16911" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2019-07-02T12:35:51.877" LastActivityDate="2019-07-02T15:19:19.020" Title="PETG on Ender 3" Tags="|print-quality|creality-ender-3|petg|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10445" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10426" CreationDate="2019-07-01T06:31:50.910" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;As @r-ahlskog pointed out, it was due to the top layers count being too low. Adding some, now it looks perfect:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DEdbO.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DEdbO.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16900" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2019-07-01T10:55:34.710" LastActivityDate="2019-07-01T10:55:34.710" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10446" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10426" CreationDate="2019-07-01T07:58:13.873" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;When you get upwards facing things failing it can be because the slicer has too few top layers which makes angled faces have gaps. While you may think it is a wall the slicer sees it as top layer. Try increasing the number of top layers and check in the preview how it appears.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Infill will normally support those faces so no separate support is needed. Just make sure you have enough top layers that no gaps form, 3-5 layers should be alright.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14957" LastActivityDate="2019-07-01T07:58:13.873" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10447" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10432" CreationDate="2019-07-01T08:43:02.440" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It looks to me as the model did not have enough surface contact with the raft.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This can be caused by to big of a gap between raft and model set in the slicer or because of Underextrusion. &#xA;The part itself does not look underextruded, at least not a lot, so I would say that the slicer settings were not ideal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would suggest you slice a part by yourself and test the printer again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From personal experience a skirt or brim works better with PLA and uncomplicated models.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For general bugfixing, explanation of slicer settings and anomalies the Simplfy3D hompage is a great resource.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is an article about &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.simplify3d.com/support/articles/rafts-skirts-and-brims/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Rafts, Skirts and Brims&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here the general guide page for print quality.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your printing temperature is a bit low but shouldn't be the cause for the problem. Maybe check the specs on the PLA you used.&#xA;Your bet temperature seems to be fine as the raft did adhere well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16913" LastActivityDate="2019-07-01T08:43:02.440" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10448" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10438" CreationDate="2019-07-01T09:25:43.530" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should be able to adapt the &quot;Dual X Carriage&quot; feature for your project.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That allows a second print head (on the X axis) to move independently of the &quot;main&quot; X axis motor - and it can also be homed against its own endstop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can enable this feature in the &lt;code&gt;configuration_adv.h&lt;/code&gt; file under &quot;Dual X Carriage&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By default, all &quot;Dual X/Y/Z axis&quot; features use the first free extruder stepper driver - which would be E1 in your case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You would have to adjust the &lt;code&gt;X2&lt;/code&gt; parameters to allow you to zero the motor on the endstop (&lt;code&gt;X2_MIN_POS 0&lt;/code&gt;, &lt;code&gt;X2_HOME_DIR -1&lt;/code&gt;, &lt;code&gt;X2_HOME_POS X2_MIN_POS&lt;/code&gt;), as well as setting the default mode to &quot;&lt;code&gt;FULL CONTROL&lt;/code&gt;&quot; (&lt;code&gt;DEFAULT_DUAL_X_CARRIAGE_MODE DXC_FULL_CONTROL_MODE&lt;/code&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as I understand, you can then use&#xA;&lt;code&gt;T0&lt;/code&gt; and &lt;code&gt;T1&lt;/code&gt; to change between both &quot;X axes&quot;, with &lt;code&gt;T0&lt;/code&gt; selecting your real X axis, and &lt;code&gt;T1&lt;/code&gt; your custom stepper motor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13171" LastEditorUserId="13171" LastEditDate="2019-07-01T12:02:01.127" LastActivityDate="2019-07-01T12:02:01.127" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10449" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10437" CreationDate="2019-07-01T11:13:32.090" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You have modeled your bird. So far so good, but you likely only modeled a single surface and not a closed surface body. The crucial step was forgotten, as your pictures 1 and 2 show: you have designed a single surface for most of the object, not a body. To turn the bird into a printable object needs it not to be a single surface but a surface enclosing a volume that has some thickness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the moment, it looks like this: 640 vertices, NO enclosed space.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UzNV4.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UzNV4.png&quot; alt=&quot;Model as shared&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To achieve an even thickness object in blender:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;code&gt;A&lt;/code&gt; to choose the whole model&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;code&gt;E&lt;/code&gt; for extrude Region&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;code&gt;Z&lt;/code&gt; &lt;code&gt;Z&lt;/code&gt; to constrain movement to Z axis&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;type in the wanted thickness&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;remember, that the grid in Blender is usually in cm, while slicing programs reference in mm!&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;close the edges by creating faces there (chose 3 and &lt;code&gt;F&lt;/code&gt;)&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1Lg9T.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1Lg9T.png&quot; alt=&quot;Fix step 1&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;code&gt;A&lt;/code&gt; to grab everything&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;code&gt;W&lt;/code&gt; then &lt;code&gt;R&lt;/code&gt; to &lt;em&gt;remove doubles&lt;/em&gt;, increase the merging distance to 0.05 (it takes away hundreds of superfluous, slightly shifted vertices!)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;code&gt;CTRL&lt;/code&gt;+&lt;code&gt;N&lt;/code&gt; to &lt;a href=&quot;https://all3dp.com/2/blender-recalculate-normals-simply-explained/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;recalculate normals&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ErQqb.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ErQqb.png&quot; alt=&quot;With normals turned visible - spiky = good!&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;Make sure to check the slicer, because we have some strays, visible in red... where are those? They are faces hidden in the body!&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8XS9I.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8XS9I.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hide the underside (Select nothing, allow viewing through the object, &lt;code&gt;3&lt;/code&gt; &gt; &lt;code&gt;B&lt;/code&gt; &gt; draw a box around the lowest layer &gt; &lt;code&gt;H&lt;/code&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have the normals visible, you'll see the iffy areas now. Fix them by removing the superfluous faces and flipping those that are not superfuous but just inside out (&lt;code&gt;W&lt;/code&gt;&gt;&lt;code&gt;F&lt;/code&gt;). One example area I highlight in the next picture&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MgF9E.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MgF9E.png&quot; alt=&quot;This is the inside, we don&amp;#39;t want long lines here!&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the end, it should look like this in cura:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ohylv.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ohylv.png&quot; alt=&quot;Hunt for flipped vertices done&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qxAij.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qxAij.png&quot; alt=&quot;It slices...&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Make sure to check layer view and possibly thicken some areas manually - or make a box-part for the top, so you can ensure printability. As you'll see, at some scales, some walls are too thin due to how we extruded along Z only.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nLbEp.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nLbEp.png&quot; alt=&quot;A too thin wall&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Alternate ways&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As noted in the comments, instead of the Z-Extrude, a model with very vertical walls could benefit from using the &lt;a href=&quot;https://docs.blender.org/manual/en/latest/modeling/modifiers/generate/solidify.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;code&gt;solidify&lt;/code&gt; modifier.&lt;/a&gt; You will have to add it via object mode, modifiers and then choosing &lt;code&gt;solidify&lt;/code&gt; and setting a positive thickness. To properly convert the visible modifier into an actual change of the model for the export, you will have to &lt;code&gt;Apply&lt;/code&gt; the modifier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Afterwards, go back to hunting stray internal surfaces and flipped faces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2019-07-11T16:12:51.690" LastActivityDate="2019-07-11T16:12:51.690" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10450" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10401" CreationDate="2019-07-01T13:39:28.193" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;This sounds like a problem I had with my hotend cooling fan a couple years back. To answer your question, from what I'm reading, the Prusa3D firmware detects &lt;a href=&quot;https://help.prusa3d.com/article/aicptwdn3b-thermal-runaway&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;thermal runaway&lt;/a&gt; if the hotend temperature drops for more than 45 seconds, it detects an open-circuit by reading 16&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C or less (&lt;a href=&quot;https://help.prusa3d.com/article/am4dykf2rw-mintemp&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;MINTEMP error&lt;/a&gt;), and detects a short by reading 310&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C or higher (&lt;a href=&quot;https://help.prusa3d.com/article/tnzgdp61s4-maxtemp&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;MAXTEMP error&lt;/a&gt;). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Couple questions that might help better troubleshoot the root of the problem:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;have you measured the thermistor's resistance while cold or hot?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;have you made sure your hotend cooling fan is at an appropriate speed while heated?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;have you made sure your print cooling fan duct isn't pointed at the hotend block due to being jostled?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might find that there are some fairly simple solutions to a handful of overheat problems. I bought a cheap knockoff all-metal heatbreak and immediately ran into problems, but solved them by printing a better heatsink shroud and upgrading to a 40&amp;nbsp;mm fan. If you've upgraded to an all-metal hotend, you might run into issues with PLA specifically if you're not printing enough material fast enough, as PLA is somewhat sensitive to heat creep through the filament itself in the throat of the hotend.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16621" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-07-01T14:58:06.927" LastActivityDate="2019-07-01T14:58:06.927" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10453" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8547" CreationDate="2019-07-01T13:58:25.180" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;That looks pretty bad for a number of reasons. If you've got an all-metal hotend, you can be pretty sure that your PLA issues are probably at least partially cooling-related. I'd recommend you try and find a better fan duct design for your hotend, if possible, and possibly upgrade to a better fan.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can temporarily skirt around cooling issues with PLA in all-metal hotends by printing &lt;em&gt;more material&lt;/em&gt;, which typically means one or all of the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Faster print speeds (if your printer can move quickly enough and has good acceleration)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Thicker lines! Surprisingly useful. If you don't want to sacrifice print detail, then make the infill lines ridiculously thick, the inner wall lines fairly thick, and the single outer perimeter &quot;normal&quot; thickness.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Thicker layer height. Normally I printed at 0.2mm like everyone else, but with PLA in my all-metal hotend, I had to up it to 0.3 with fatter lines as well. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can consistently keep the filament going through the hotend instead of lingering inside of it, you can basically &quot;push&quot; the melt zone back down into the heater block where it belongs, instead of it creeping upwards and resulting in a jam. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a side note, the rippled surface of your brim there looks very similar to what used to happen to mine; the ripples are usually indicative of some form of over-extrusion on the first layer. I'd maybe look into checking your Z offset to make sure your print nozzle is far enough away from the bed, and maybe also check your flow rate is accurate for that particular filament. Check the filament diameter in a few places with a micrometer if you have access to one, and compare to your ABS prints to see if maybe you should adjust the flow rate down a few percent in your slicer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16621" LastActivityDate="2019-07-01T13:58:25.180" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10454" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8002" CreationDate="2019-07-01T14:07:45.743" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're a brave individual you might try insulating the bottom of your heated bed. You're going to want to get fiberglass or something that can actually withstand the temperatures you're trying to reach; anything past about 230&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C and you'll get organic things like cork and cotton starting to smoke. 200&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C is pretty absurd for a print bed temperature unless you're printing some pretty exotic materials.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Aside from insulating the bottom of the bed to aid in heat retention, you might also try getting an external FET chip for your heated bed, like is recommended for the RAMPS1.4 boards since their connectors don't handle high amperage loads well. External FET plus a 24&amp;nbsp;V PSU might give you the kind of temperature range you're apparently aiming for. Best of luck with that, and try not to set your entire setup on fire, 200&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C really is kind of absurd for an entire print plate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;TL;DR:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Insulate&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;External FET chip&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;24V PSU&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16621" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-07-01T14:46:10.640" LastActivityDate="2019-07-01T14:46:10.640" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10455" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10444" CreationDate="2019-07-01T17:23:35.227" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It looks to me like you're using Cura with the default Ender 3 custom start gcode. The priming line there tries to cram about twice the amount of filament through the nozzle as what it should, so unless your material and temperature can handle really fast flow, you'll build up pressure in the bowden, the retraction before the move to start printing will fail to actually back the filament out enough to stop flow, and you'll get a string. This will continue until sufficient oozing has happened to dump all the excess filament.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Going back and forth over the same line is also problematic, as it will pick up any blobs that got dropped off the first time over, melt them on the nozzle, and drag them into the print area. PETG really hates that. Whereas with PLA it just tends to leave the junk stuck to the model somewhere, with PETG it'll get dragged around and break things off the build plate or the model.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I replaced the priming part of the start gcode with:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;G1 X0.1 Y20 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move to start position&#xA;G1 X0.1 Y200.0 Z0.3 F750.0 E18 ; Draw the first line&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that there is no second line.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also reduced the final retraction in the end gcode from 3mm to 1mm so that the filament is left in a position where it doesn't require a lot of advancement to start priming, comparable to what you get after loading filament manually. Otherwise, you need extra priming at the start to make up for the difference, and then after loading new filament you'll over-extrude during priming.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Oh, you also &lt;strong&gt;need&lt;/strong&gt; retraction, regardless of material. I missed that you had it off. Anyone telling you to turn off retraction for your general settings is wrong as that will always cause stringing; it's just a matter of how much&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1 - see discussion in comments.&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2019-07-02T15:19:19.020" LastActivityDate="2019-07-02T15:19:19.020" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10456" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6119" CreationDate="2019-07-01T17:35:58.667" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just minutes ago, I took a PLA part from my car that is parked in the sun, it is warped and bloated. It was wrapped in a towel, not in direct sunlight. The temperature in the car was near 60°C. I would not recommend using PLA on parts that may be left in a vehicle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16916" LastEditorUserId="16916" LastEditDate="2019-07-01T17:48:38.950" LastActivityDate="2019-07-01T17:48:38.950" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10457" PostTypeId="6" CreationDate="2019-07-01T20:12:12.060" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;In 3D printing and building 3D printers I found a great marriage between the mechanical, electrical and software aspects to keep me (my hands and mind) busy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As of 2018, I'm doing my best to share my gained knowledge and moderate the site given my 15k+ reputation. To improve the quality of the site I am among the &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users?tab=Voters&amp;amp;filter=all&quot;&gt;top 3 voters&lt;/a&gt;, the &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users?tab=Editors&amp;amp;filter=all&quot;&gt;top 3 editors&lt;/a&gt; and I've raised over 400 flags of which only a handful are disputed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How I'd see my moderator duties is that I extend the work I'm doing already:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Teach new people how SE works and enforce mutual respect&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Delete spam and misuse of answers (e.g. for comments by low rep users)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Close off-topic questions and duplicates&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Counter rude &amp;amp; abusive comments&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Refrain from immediate actions to let the community decide first&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Be available in our &lt;a href=&quot;https://chat.stackexchange.com/rooms/79830/public-3d-printing-room&quot;&gt;3D Printing chat room&lt;/a&gt; that I started.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Promote the use of 3D Printing.SE on other sites&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Furthermore, while keeping that all in mind, I'd keep on asking &amp;amp; answering questions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-07-08T10:29:00.120" LastActivityDate="2019-07-08T10:29:00.120" CommentCount="2" CommunityOwnedDate="2019-07-01T20:12:12.060" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10458" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10346" CreationDate="2019-07-02T00:35:52.123" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Instead of getting tlsmoothers just upgrade your drivers, 2209s are good, Most TMC Drivers account for flyback&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13482" LastActivityDate="2019-07-02T00:35:52.123" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10459" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-07-02T00:50:19.703" Score="8" ViewCount="4422" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've upgraded my stepper drivers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm looking to understand why my stepper motors made noise in the first place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13482" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2019-07-04T05:52:03.670" LastActivityDate="2019-07-04T06:11:23.187" Title="Why do different drivers change the noise of steppers?" Tags="|stepper-driver|stepper|knowledgebase|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10460" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10471" CreationDate="2019-07-02T02:34:32.817" Score="2" ViewCount="1561" Body="&lt;p&gt;The printer is &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=21711&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&quot;Monoprice MP Select Mini 3D Printer V2&quot;&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is how my printed fan part looks like:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BG8lC.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BG8lC.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Printed fan part&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These printers are notorious for their Z lead screw assembly (M4 bolt &amp;amp; nut) so I installed flex coupler and aligned the M4 bolt and motor shaft so that the wobble is minimal. It is still there, but I don't think this amount of wobble would produce something like what I experience. Please check out the &lt;a href=&quot;https://photos.app.goo.gl/XTdaZMjGvCgwsZ9W7&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;timelapse video&lt;/a&gt; at the end.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also tightened up Z guide rails (no rattle, very little slop)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Moreover the banding appears to be less pronounced and have alot greater period for vase prints &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dJBLe.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dJBLe.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Vase print; extruded ellipse printed along Y axis&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(this is extruded ellipse printed along Y axis).&#xA;I tried:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;slowing down print by 50&amp;nbsp;% - no effect on banding.   &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;monitored hotend temperature with external probe on the heater block (-+5&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The banding appears to be almost exclusively in Y axis direction; for example, the same ellipse printed along X axis: &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ko1pr.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ko1pr.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Vase print; extruded ellipse printed along X axis&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, same ellipse in layered mode (seam side) printed along Y axis&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xaXJd.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xaXJd.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Layered print; extruded ellipse printed along Y axis&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16841" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-12-10T05:51:53.037" LastActivityDate="2019-12-10T05:51:53.037" Title="Help diagnose Z-banding" Tags="|print-quality|troubleshooting|monoprice-select-mini|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10461" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10439" CreationDate="2019-07-02T04:20:43.960" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Printing some more parts tonight.  Looks like solution is better bed &quot;leveling&quot; (tramming, or basically squareness between X, Y, and Z axis). Getting it dialed in to the correct height, 1/4 turn of a bed leveling screw at a time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also ordered some metal (stainless steel) shims so we can get and check the bed level more accurately than &quot;this index card plus a little bit&quot; as the card measures ~0.16mm and we want 0.18mm to 0.2mm or maybe 0.22mm it seems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16523" LastActivityDate="2019-07-02T04:20:43.960" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10462" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10459" CreationDate="2019-07-02T06:32:01.697" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;To make a stepper perform a step, block signals are send to energize the coils to position the rotor. Such a block signal causes abrupt motion and triggers harmonic frequencies. This is audible as stepper noise. If the block signal is smoothed, the motion is more fluent and less noise will be observed. A similar effect is achieved using micro-stepping. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It could be that the new stepper drivers use more/less microsteps&lt;sup&gt;1)&lt;/sup&gt; or a smoothed/block&lt;sup&gt;1)&lt;/sup&gt; signal opposed to the previous drivers, hence less/more&lt;sup&gt;1)&lt;/sup&gt; noise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1)&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;sub&gt; The question does not state if the noise is reduced or increased, but noise reduction is most probable&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-07-02T08:48:07.860" LastActivityDate="2019-07-02T08:48:07.860" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10463" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10459" CreationDate="2019-07-02T07:52:20.740" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;Stepper motors contain two distinct sets of coils. The current in these coils is governed by your stepper motor driver.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RaDxb.gif&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RaDxb.gif&quot; alt=&quot;Stepper motor diagram (WikiForU.com)&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To move the motor in either direction, the coils are being driven one after another, and in different directions.&#xA;Imagine this being a normal 3-phase AC motor, but instead of three phases, only two are used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A &quot;full steps&quot; (1/1 &quot;microstepping&quot;) would mean switching one coil off and the other on - resulting in a jerky motion to the next position. Real stepper motors have multiple sets of those coils (rather than two like in the diagram) - usually 200 or 400, giving 1.8° or 0.9° of rotation per &quot;full step&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Such motion is usually not desired, since the immediate movement of the motor creates noise and vibration.&#xA;If both coils are driven with less current (71% of the full current, the reciprocal of the square root of 2, so that the total force on the motor remains the same) during the switch from one current to the other, another position can be achieved - a &quot;half step&quot; between two full steps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This can be repeated for higher number of &quot;microsteps&quot;, with 16 being the usual compromise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Optimal smoothness - and next to no noise - would be achieved by driving the stepper motor with pure sine waves. The closer a stepper driver can get to that pure sine wave, the lower the noise made by the stepper motor will be:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GobdA.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GobdA.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Microstepping plot (eeNewspower.com)&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some stepper motor drivers, most notably the TMC family of chips, can generate 256 microsteps internally, approximating a sine wave quite well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other stepper motor drivers (like the LV8729) can also handle 128 microsteps, but they require the printer control board to send an individual step signal for each of those steps - which may limit speed because of the additional load on the board's MCU.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13171" LastEditorUserId="13171" LastEditDate="2019-07-04T06:11:23.187" LastActivityDate="2019-07-04T06:11:23.187" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10464" PostTypeId="6" CreationDate="2019-07-02T12:08:39.033" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Let's see where I come in here... I have been in this community since a question I did pose on RPG-SE was moved over here in October '17 or something. Since then I have gotten up to &lt;a href=&quot;https://stackexchange.com/leagues/640/alltime/3dprinting/2016-01-12/5740#5740&quot;&gt;the top 2%&lt;/a&gt; of the site by learning, reading and a doing my part in answering questions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am in the &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users?tab=Voters&amp;amp;filter=all&quot;&gt;top 10 voters&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users?tab=Editors&amp;amp;filter=all&quot;&gt;top 3 editors&lt;/a&gt;, raised round more than 200 flags.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I see the duties as mainly ensuring quality in the questions and answers. This can be teaching about the stack, asking for additional information to allow  &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/troubleshooting&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;troubleshooting&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;troubleshooting&lt;/a&gt; and closing duplicates (especially those of the &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/knowledgebase&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;knowledgebase&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;knowledgebase&lt;/a&gt; tag) as well as removing the rudeness from comments, questions or answers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want me to bear the title of moderator, I'll try to mainly push what I already do: be active, ensure quality and try to be available &lt;a href=&quot;https://chat.stackexchange.com/rooms/79830/public-3d-printing-room&quot;&gt;in chat&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2019-07-02T12:08:39.033" LastActivityDate="2019-07-02T12:08:39.033" CommentCount="1" CommunityOwnedDate="2019-07-02T12:08:39.033" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10465" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8547" CreationDate="2019-07-02T12:34:09.313" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The answer to this specific instance appeared in the comments:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Also, &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/6092/&quot;&gt;a thorough cleaning of the nozzle/hotend&lt;/a&gt; might also be a good idea to get rid of all the stuck ABS residue inside. – 0scar Mar 26 at 8:44&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The problem solved !, my ABS is stuck in nozzle !!! – 3ORZ Apr 25 at 6:52&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-07-02T13:01:29.953" LastActivityDate="2019-07-02T13:01:29.953" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2019-07-02T12:34:09.313" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10466" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10459" CreationDate="2019-07-02T16:01:43.413" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The coils in the stepper act like speakers. Its not that the stepper is making less noise, it's just making it in frequencies that are above the average person's hearing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12857" LastActivityDate="2019-07-02T16:01:43.413" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10470" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3202" CreationDate="2019-07-02T23:55:30.307" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Heating the bed helps with adhesion to the bed, but can seriously interfere with cooling of the layers just above the bed that are in contact with large amounts of material touching the bed. I've found that, if I have a model with a flat region touching the bed and walls leaning outward from it (overhangs) as they go up, any corners will curl upwards before they can cool if the bed is 60&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C or above - it's effectively a heat bath at the glass transition temperature that's going to be hard for a fan to overcome.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At 50&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C the effect is almost gone, and at 40&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C and below it seems entirely gone, but the exact temperature that's safe is going to depend on ambient room temperature, cooling fan power, and effectiveness of the fan duct. I've just found this as a solution to my curling-corner problems, so I might end up tweaking things more, but I think I'm going to try printing PLA without heating the bed at all unless I have trouble with adhesion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An example showing slightly warped vertex/edge from curling corners at 50&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C vs good ones at lower temperatures:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YWQoQ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;3 icosahedrons printed at unheated, 40, and 50 °C&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-07-03T04:27:56.377" LastActivityDate="2019-07-03T04:27:56.377" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10471" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10460" CreationDate="2019-07-03T08:07:40.540" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This differs from the traditional banding as observed from Z wobble induced banding as e.g. explained in &lt;a href=&quot;/a/5824&quot;&gt;this answer&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your banding patterns clearly seem to form diagonal bands, this is most probably a combination of the lead and the full rotation of the stepper. The most logical explanation is that the layer shifts as a whole in X-Y direction (when seen against the print height, this movement is concentric seen from the top). This means that the next layer is positioned over the previous layer in a concentric pattern. This hints to some sort of defect in your X/Y-plane assembly and should be investigated further. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is difficult to visualize, but this sketch shows the issue for some layers:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5CzDk.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Diagonal Z banding by concentric consecutive offsets&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5CzDk.png&quot; alt=&quot;Diagonal Z banding by concentric consecutive offsets&quot; title=&quot;Diagonal Z banding by concentric consecutive offsets&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This could be related to the belts of the X and Y-axis, play on the drive pulleys, non-straight lead screw, guide rods with play, play in general, &lt;a href=&quot;https://hackaday.io/project/14823-monoprice-select-mini-maximum-3d-printer-mods/log/51880-dont-go-wobbly-on-me-now&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Z-stepper alignment to the threaded rod&lt;/a&gt;, etc. Considering the amount of &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.mpselectmini.com/thingiverse/z-axis-stabilizers&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Z-wobble fixes&lt;/a&gt; shared by the unofficial MP Select Wiki, the best place to look for is the Z-stepper to lead screw coupling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-07-03T12:10:27.300" LastActivityDate="2019-07-03T12:10:27.300" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10472" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10473" CreationDate="2019-07-03T14:24:33.327" Score="4" ViewCount="1903" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are several cantilever-style printers around like &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.instructables.com/id/3D-Printer-Cantilever-20-C3Dtc/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;some DIYs&lt;/a&gt; (2018), the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.tronxy.com/x-series/tronxy-x1.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;TronXY-X1&lt;/a&gt;, the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.monoprice.com/Product?p_id=15365&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Monoprice Select Mini&lt;/a&gt;, Tiertime's &lt;a href=&quot;https://shop.tiertime.com/product/cetus-3d-printer-mk3/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Cetus line&lt;/a&gt; and the 2019 &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.prusa3d.com/original-prusa-mini/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Prusa Mini&lt;/a&gt;&lt;sup&gt;links for information, no affiliation&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While the specs of the printers are very different, what are the main benefits, tradeoffs and drawbacks that are &lt;strong&gt;inherent in the design&lt;/strong&gt; compared to a more traditional Core-XY or Prusa/Portal design?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="12857" LastEditDate="2019-11-29T13:31:05.953" LastActivityDate="2019-11-29T14:26:57.647" Title="What are the tradeoffs of a cantilever printer design?" Tags="|printer-building|desktop-printer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10473" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10472" CreationDate="2019-07-03T14:24:33.327" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cantilever printers constrain the X-axis carriage only on one side and have a free hanging side. This means, that the X-beam has to be rather sturdy and is limited in length, making them usually quite small machines. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another tradeoff stemming from this source is, that they have to stiffen this one connection as much as possible. Any play on the connection leads to increasingly large errors the further the printhead is out from the Z-Axis and can lead to bad prints, banding and total failures of prints. This behavior, at least on the TronXY-X1, is sometimes called Z-Wobble and has brought up some aftermarket modifications. For example, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2275654&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this bracket&lt;/a&gt; constrains the movement of the X-cantilever.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While all axis would be affected by bad constraints, a cantilever suffers the most: The cantilever (if not well constrained) can deflect in both XY and XZ plane, pretty much opening a cone with the tip at the leadscrew nut. A one side-leadscrew portal design can only deflect in the XZ plane, opening an angle along with the center in the leadscrew nut. A double leadscrew design has, constrains both ends of the X-axis and prevents deflection but could suffer from bending the portal bar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main benefit of a cantilever design is that being of a rather simple design with few moving parts, understanding as well as repairing and modifying the motion control system is fairly easy. The ease of access and low component number also allows reducing manufacturing costs to some degree.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another thing of note is, that these printers usually have a fairly small form factor, allowing them to be used in small workshops without taking up too much space. However, their build-volume to occupied-volume ratio usually is not as good as other designs - printers with a much larger build volume just get a much better ratio there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2019-11-29T14:26:57.647" LastActivityDate="2019-11-29T14:26:57.647" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10475" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-07-03T18:51:38.350" Score="6" ViewCount="586" Body="&lt;p&gt;As far as I can tell, Cura's infill patterns which are self-crossing, such as &lt;code&gt;triangles&lt;/code&gt;, don't do anything special to account for extruding material over the crossing points multiple times. In theory this should produce either a blob around the crossing point, or excess pressure in the extruder due to blockage from the alread-deposited material that will result in over-extrusion after the point is crossed until the excess pressure is dissipated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is Cura doing anything to account for this? It doesn't seem to do travel moves across the intersection, but maybe it's adjusting the overall flow to compensate for the crossings &quot;on average&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If not, it seems like crossing points near the walls would be a source of dimensional accuracy problems, which I've seen in tightly confined areas and which I'm looking for a root cause for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2019-07-03T19:47:30.060" Title="Do Cura's self-crossing infill patterns account for excess material from self-crossing?" Tags="|print-quality|ultimaker-cura|slicing|infill|dimensional-accuracy|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10476" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10475" CreationDate="2019-07-03T19:47:30.060" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;With most filaments you don't need to do anything special to account for overfill caused by these crossing points. When the nozzle extrudes the second direction, it pushes the lines laid by the first direction out of the way. The same happens when the third direction crosses the first two. There's a blob, but it's a blob within the plane of the layer, so it shouldn't stick up out of the layer and upset subsequent layers. There are two complications which can occur though:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;When filling each direction, it's usual to keep extruding when moving from one line to the next (not a travel move), which results in getting an extra half perimeter around your infill. This is fine for a single raster pattern, and for box infill, but with triangle, hexagram, or similar, you'd get three half-perimeters (one for each direction). The slicer needs to offset the third direction so that those extra perimeters don't overlap. I don't know how Cura handles this; it's possible that's the source of the dimensional problems you're seeing.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;With abrasive filaments, or those that don't stretch (such as carbon fibre or metal fill filament), the &quot;pushing the existing lines out of the way&quot; doesn't really work. You just end up wearing down the outside of the nozzle and getting the kind of blobs you're afraid of, sticking up into the next layer. It's just best to avoid infill with crossings (box, triangle, hexagram, etc.) on such filaments.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13100" LastActivityDate="2019-07-03T19:47:30.060" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10477" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-07-03T21:12:15.560" Score="3" ViewCount="162" Body="&lt;p&gt;Developing an electronic product for which I'll need an enclosure. It's about 50x30x20mm and should survive higher temperatures (50-60 degrees). Because of the low volume (under 500 required per year), I'd like to go for an enclosure option that doesn't require a huge upfront cost. So ended up at 3d printing.  As the product will retail for around 500$, the surface finish needs to be up to a higher quality than the standard pla prints that I've seen. From my own research (3d printing noob), the best material for this would be ABS. Maybe with some manual polishing at the end. Then I'd either buy a 3d printer and do it myself or find a company to do it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What am I missing? :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anything I'm missing? Thanks a lot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16936" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2019-07-04T16:03:00.393" LastActivityDate="2019-07-07T08:59:43.077" Title="3D Print Enclosure" Tags="|3d-design|abs|electronics|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10478" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10477" CreationDate="2019-07-03T22:00:40.173" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;ABS should be able to handle the the temperatures you describe. ABS will have a similar finish to PLA when it first comes off the printer, but you can refine and smooth your results via an acetone vapor treatment. This only takes a few minutes per piece, and can cost as little as a $1 bottle of fingernail polish remover, a used coffee can, a bit of wire, and some paper towels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What you're missing is the hobby-level 3D printers ($1000 and below) can be &lt;em&gt;extremely&lt;/em&gt; finicky. You're not gonna get the kind of quality you need the first print out of the gate. Or the second. Probably not the third or fourth, either. And then you'll find every now and then something isn't quite right any more, and you'll need to troubleshoot why.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You certainly can make this work... just be prepared for what you're getting into.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12562" LastEditorUserId="12562" LastEditDate="2019-07-04T14:55:56.120" LastActivityDate="2019-07-04T14:55:56.120" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10479" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10477" CreationDate="2019-07-03T23:01:49.357" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hire someone on fiver or upwork to design it for you, and then hire a company to make them for you out of ABS. Then you can do the smoothing yourself. If you're getting into 3d printing so that you can be cost effective on just one design, the outsource it. If you are planning to do different designs over that year, then pick it up yourself. If you want quality now, however, then outsource.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12857" LastActivityDate="2019-07-03T23:01:49.357" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10480" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10477" CreationDate="2019-07-04T04:15:14.260" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;ABS would be ok for these temperatures. But 3d-printing, cleaning up the print and smoothing the surface to get a marketable device takes time and effort.&#xA;So I guess that for a few hundred enclosures you'd be far better/cheaper off having them manufactured (in China?) than trying to print them yourself.&#xA;Unless the design changes often of course.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6812" LastActivityDate="2019-07-04T04:15:14.260" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10481" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10477" CreationDate="2019-07-04T06:45:41.367" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently started using ABS - while easily printable, you'll really want to use a filter or make sure to use the printer in a well ventilated area because of the fumes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With your required temperature range of only 60°C, &lt;strong&gt;PETG&lt;/strong&gt; would also be a viable as an easier and safer to print alternative. However, it is not smoothable with acetone like ABS is, though you can get very high-quality surface finish from the raw print if you build a decent printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13171" LastActivityDate="2019-07-04T06:45:41.367" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10482" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10428" CreationDate="2019-07-04T06:50:23.617" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;An NPN sensor is wired differently from a PNP sensor. The signal wire is the black wire, blue is the ground wire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to this posting, &lt;a href=&quot;https://mertarauh.com/2017/01/18/dont-trust-the-internet-and-how-to-add-an-inductive-proximity-sensor-to-your-3d-printer-the-proper-and-easiest-way/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Don’t trust the internet (and how to add an Inductive Proximity Sensor to your 3D printer the proper and easiest way&lt;/a&gt;, you need to insert a 6.8&amp;nbsp;k&amp;ohm; resistor in between the black and the blue wire, I quote:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;...Indeed, all we need to do is add a single 6.8&amp;nbsp;kΩ resistor between BLACK and BLUE and all should work fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yfaNB.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;NPN inductive sensor using voltage divider resistor&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yfaNB.png&quot; alt=&quot;NPN inductive sensor using voltage divider resistor&quot; title=&quot;NPN inductive sensor using voltage divider resistor&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively, a diode in the black wire would also work, I quote:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;... So I did test using a diode and that also works perfectly fine, simply because the direction in which the 12&amp;nbsp;V current would like to flow when the sensor is open will be blocked by the diode. The internal (or hardware) pull-up still pulls the Atmega’s sensor pin to &lt;strong&gt;HIGH&lt;/strong&gt; however.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SSO9C.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;NPN inductive sensor using diode, high output to printer board&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SSO9C.png&quot; alt=&quot;NPN inductive sensor using diode, high output to printer board&quot; title=&quot;NPN inductive sensor using diode, high output to printer board&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;br&gt;... &#xA;  But as soon as the sensor is closed, the diode would allow the 5&amp;nbsp;V current to flow in the opposite direction towards ground, which pulls the Atmega’s sensor pin to &lt;strong&gt;LOW&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YceLn.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;NPN inductive sensor using diode, low output to printer board&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YceLn.png&quot; alt=&quot;NPN inductive sensor using diode, low output to printer board&quot; title=&quot;NPN inductive sensor using diode, low output to printer board&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-07-04T08:35:13.613" LastActivityDate="2019-07-04T08:35:13.613" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10483" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-07-04T11:55:14.033" Score="4" ViewCount="215" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I am trying to print something on my home made 3D printer, I can print the first and second layer, then the Bowden extruder's gear starts slipping; it cannot push the filament anymore,the gear is turning but slipping; the filament cannot go forward.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried all configurations of the tightening screw of the spring, corrected PID settings, cleaned the nozzle, tried with 200&amp;nbsp;°C up to 215&amp;nbsp;°C (I am using PLA) but no result.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am wondering whether this is related to speed, feedrate and acceleration settings. The Slic3r puts automatically a feedrate as F1800, is this too high ? Do I have to change it every time I slice something? I might proceed with trial and error method but I need a more rational method.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any suggestions?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The slicer I use (Slic3r) puts F1800 as speed. Is this too high ? Could this be a reason for the filament to slip ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My filament's diameter is 1.75 mm. In the G-code file created by my slicer (Slic3r), the flows are shown as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;; external perimeters extrusion width = 0.44mm (4.25mm^3/s) &#xA;; perimeters extrusion width = 0.42mm (8.02mm^3/s) &#xA;; infill extrusion width = 0.42mm (10.69mm^3/s) &#xA;; solid infill extrusion width = 0.42mm (2.67mm^3/s) &#xA;; top infill extrusion width = 0.42mm (2.00mm^3/s) &#xA;; support material extrusion width = 0.44mm (8.50mm^3/s)&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16945" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2019-07-10T16:36:40.487" LastActivityDate="2019-07-10T16:36:40.487" Title="Extruder problem" Tags="|extruder|diy-3d-printer|troubleshooting|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10485" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10483" CreationDate="2019-07-04T12:46:35.667" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The PLA isn't advancing as fast as the gcode requires. Since you've already tried higher temperatures, try printing at half the speed (F value). If that works, try 3/4 of the original F value, etc., until you find the best feed rate at this temperature for your material, printer, and model.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4922" LastActivityDate="2019-07-04T12:46:35.667" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10486" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-07-04T15:53:57.660" Score="1" ViewCount="348" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am a 3D printing beginner but wanted to get stuck in straight away and design my own 3D objects. I used Sketchup to design a badge of one of my logos. I make sure that all faces of my object are not inside out and show a white face in Sketchup. I also make my entire object a component before exporting into a .stl file. However, when I import into Ultimaker Cura, the base of the object is red. This to my understanding means there is an issue with that face.I have played around with Sketchup several times by not creating a component, reversing the face and I still have no luck. When I reverse the base face in Sketchup so that it is grey, it then shows up in Ultimaker Cura as okay (not red). But when I 3D print it, it still prints it very strangely. I would like to note I am 3D printing with a raft and when I do not use a raft, the object prints fine. Also I have tested printing a small 3D cube with the same settings and the results are exactly the same. Surely you can design objects in Sketchup and print with a raft?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WdSYa.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WdSYa.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Reverse of object&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/t8seY.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/t8seY.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Front of object&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16947" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2019-08-31T08:07:44.093" LastActivityDate="2019-08-31T08:07:44.093" Title="Sketchup designed object printing first layer incorrectly" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|pla|rafts|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10487" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10489" CreationDate="2019-07-04T16:04:27.483" Score="2" ViewCount="2465" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I print parts in ABS, acetone vapour smoothing is a good technique to get a smooth finish. Is there an equivalent solvent or process for parts printed in ASA? Ideally I'm looking for something as easy to obtain as acetone, and not so awful a chemical that I wouldn't want to work with it, but I'd still be curious to learn about less friendly solvents.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13100" LastActivityDate="2019-07-06T17:07:20.660" Title="What solvents are appropriate for smoothing/finishing ASA?" Tags="|smoothing|asa|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10488" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-07-04T16:19:25.653" Score="4" ViewCount="2070" Body="&lt;p&gt;How can I write G-code for a triangle without sharp tips?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/T0hpu.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Example of required triangle&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/T0hpu.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Example of required triangle&quot; title=&quot;Example of required triangle&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to generate the corners manually, rather than using a slicer to generate them, just to know how it is done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16948" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2019-07-05T22:48:04.123" LastActivityDate="2019-07-05T22:48:04.123" Title="How to write arcs directly in G-code?" Tags="|g-code|cad|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10489" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10487" CreationDate="2019-07-04T16:34:30.220" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Acrylonitrile_styrene_acrylate&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;ASA&lt;/a&gt; is Acrylonitrile styrene acrylate. According to Wikipedia:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;ASA can be solvent-welded, using e.g. cyclohexane, 1,2-dichloroethane, methylene chloride, or 2-butanone. Such solvents can also join ASA with ABS and SAN. Solutions of ASA in these solvents can also be used as adhesives.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Staff, PDL (1997). Handbook of Plastics Joining: A Practical Guide. Elsevier Science. p. 515.&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Solvent-welding means that the material is at least somewhat easily soluble in these fluids (they dissolve the material at the interface and as they evaporate, the former interface layers bond as if molded or welded), and the fact that the material can become an adhesive means that it is somewhat good soluble in these.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The least dangerous (and thus most advised from my side) of these 4 is 2-butanone, the others are listed as carcinogenic, and in the case of 1,2-dichloroethane, also toxic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If these solvents can be used as a smoother similar to acetone with ABS would need testing, but a short exposition to their vapors should suffice to test this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Addendum:&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These four solvents also are able to solve Acrylonitrile butadiene styrene (&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Acrylonitrile_butadiene_styrene&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;ABS&lt;/a&gt;), which is a quite similar plastic in regards to its contents (butadiene instead of acrylate).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The acrylate rubber differs from the butadiene based rubber by absence of double bonds, which gives the material about ten times the weathering resistance and resistance to ultraviolet radiation of ABS, higher long-term heat resistance, and better chemical resistance. &lt;sup&gt;Wikipedia&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Acetone might prove to be also a possible option, but results might differ from those on ABS.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:29:41.667" LastActivityDate="2019-07-05T06:43:13.457" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10490" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10487" CreationDate="2019-07-04T19:23:31.967" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;From &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.simplify3d.com/support/materials-guide/asa/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Simplify3D - ASA&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;ASA can be smoothed using controlled exposure to acetone vapors (a process called “vapor smoothing”).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15075" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2019-07-06T17:07:20.660" LastActivityDate="2019-07-06T17:07:20.660" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10491" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10486" CreationDate="2019-07-04T21:27:15.973" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Note: This answer is curently wrong because I mentally reversed your &quot;with raft&quot; and &quot;without raft&quot; columns. I'll attempt to fix it soon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This doesn't look like a problem with your model, but rather a problem with your bed height or slicer settings (possibly both) that may be affecting your particular model worse than others. It's clear from the photo of the bottom of your print that the extrusions that were supposed to be circular failed to adhere to the bed, and instead got pulled to chords between points they happened to adhere at. This could be caused by a mix of:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Excessive print speed for the first layer. Generally I would limit it to 30 mm/s or less to give the material the best chance to stick.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Excess space between the nozzle and bed. Could be caused by improper adjustment of bed height (&quot;leveling&quot;), or by using a layer thickness that's too high (roughly, more than 75-80% of nozzle width).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Underextrusion, possibly caused by insufficient print temperature, incorrect filament diameter setting, or poor quality filament with wrong diameter, among other things.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using a raft mitigates these things by moving the potential problem to the interface between the raft and the bed; once there's a raft sticking to the bed, printing of the model can ignore the problem. But you &lt;em&gt;should never need a raft&lt;/em&gt;. It's a waste of plastic and a workaround for problems that have better fixes, not a necessary part of 3D printing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &quot;red&quot; in Cura is not a problem; as I understand it, Cura shows all parts of the model that aren't supported &lt;em&gt;by other parts of the model&lt;/em&gt; in red, and this includes the base. However, it is possible that your model has some stray part extruding below the bottom, causing the whole thing (except that stray part) to be printed starting one layer above the print bed with nothing to adhere to. You can check if this is the case in Cura by switching to layer view and looking at the first layer. You should see the whole surface that you want to adhere to the bed; if instead you see just one or a few small blobs, that's your problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastEditorUserId="11157" LastEditDate="2019-07-05T07:57:30.510" LastActivityDate="2019-07-05T07:57:30.510" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10492" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10486" CreationDate="2019-07-05T06:23:48.810" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A red surface coloring is normal for the bottom when viewed in Ultimaker Cura, nothing to worry about that (e.i. when that face is touching the build plate; if it is unsupported, you should add support structures but a raft is generally not necessary for PLA).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rafts are useful when you print high temperature materials that have a large shrinkage when cooled from print to bed temperature (this somewhat mitigates the problems of curling up corners or warping prints), for PLA it is not needed. As seen from the print that is printed on the raft, it's clear that the print to raft distance is to large, the first print object layer is not adhering to the top raft layer very well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The print that is printed without a raft doesn't look too bad. Some printer &lt;a href=&quot;/q/6483&quot;&gt;extruder calibration&lt;/a&gt; could further improve the quality.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2019-07-05T11:52:01.623" LastActivityDate="2019-07-05T11:52:01.623" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10494" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10488" CreationDate="2019-07-05T08:18:42.833" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Marlin has &lt;code&gt;G2&lt;/code&gt; (clockwise arc) and &lt;code&gt;G3&lt;/code&gt; (counterclockwise arc) commands that could be used to do this. &lt;a href=&quot;http://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/G002-G003.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;You can find detailed documentation for the command here.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically, you can use&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;G2 R1 X5 Y5&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;to draw a (clockwise) arc from the current position to &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$(X,Y)=(5,5)$&lt;/span&gt; with a radius of &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$1$&lt;/span&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, your rounded triangle could be drawn with 3 straight line moves and 3 arc moves. Figuring out the exact coordinates for each move would be a quite challenging geometry exercise, as you'd need to know where the straight line portion of each side ends and the rounded portion starts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastActivityDate="2019-07-05T08:18:42.833" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10496" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2823" CreationDate="2019-07-05T08:33:55.300" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It depends on the size of the nozzle you are using. If you are using a small nozzle, e.g. 0.2&amp;nbsp;mm, normally, you should increase the nozzle diameter (filament manufacturers often refer to about 0.5&amp;nbsp;mm nozzle diameters). Wood/cork, or whatever particle filled filament requires a somewhat larger diameter to prevent clogging.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition to &lt;a href=&quot;/a/2824/&quot;&gt;Tom's answer&lt;/a&gt;, note that there are stainless steel nozzles and hardened steel nozzles. The latter is harder than the prior and should be used for abrasive filaments, like filament filled with metal particles or some sort of abrasive fibres like glass or carbon fibre. Note that the addition of fibres or particles may require you to increase the nozzle diameter as fibres or particles may cause clogging. A last nozzle discussed is the nozzle with an embedded industrial Ruby, a design of Anders Olsson, a research engineer at Uppsala University, more information is found on the &lt;a href=&quot;https://olssonruby.com/anders-olsson-olsson-ruby/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Olsson Ruby website&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the Olsson Ruby website, the following interesting image is shown, comparing the wear resistance of the various nozzle materials up to 0.5&amp;nbsp;mm &lt;em&gt;(from left to right; brass, stainless steel and hardened steel by printing respectively 0.3&amp;nbsp;kg, 1.0&amp;nbsp;kg and 4&amp;nbsp;kg of carbon fibre filled filament)&lt;/em&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/f7ckg.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Nozzle material wear resistance compared&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/f7ckg.png&quot; alt=&quot;Nozzle material wear resistance compared&quot; title=&quot;Nozzle material wear resistance compared&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-07-05T08:38:58.043" LastActivityDate="2019-07-05T08:38:58.043" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10497" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10488" CreationDate="2019-07-05T08:52:11.370" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;First, convert the given measurements into a sketch...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ivxIW.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ivxIW.png&quot; alt=&quot;Sketched out dimensions&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;G-code shenanigans&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;we actually have the printer do circles.. let's plot that out...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hGFSc.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hGFSc.png&quot; alt=&quot;Plotted all start-ends and centers&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using that, it's easy to write the G-code using the Documentation for &lt;a href=&quot;http://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/G000-G001.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;G1&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/G002-G003.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;G2&lt;/a&gt;. You'll have to add the E values to extrude something along the paths, but your sketch would turn into this path:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;G92 X0 Y0 ; the current position is now (0,0) on the XY&#xA;G90 ;Abolute mode for everything...&#xA;M83 ;...but for the E-argument, so you can just put the length into the extrusions that are to be done&#xA;G0 X10.66 Y2 &#xA;G2 R5 X6.33 Y9.5 ; Alternate: G3 I0 J5 X6.33 Y9.5&#xA;G1 X45.66 Y77.638 &#xA;G2 R5 X54.33 Y77.638 ; Alternate: G3 I4.33 Y-2.5 X54.33 Y77.638&#xA;G1 93.67 Y9.5&#xA;G2 R5 X89.33 Y2 ; Alternate: G3 I-4.33 Y-2.5 X89.33 Y2&#xA;G1 X10.66 Y2&#xA;G0 X0 Y0&#xA;G91 ; return to relative coordinates&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;This code has to be prefixed by a move to where you want to start the pattern&lt;/strong&gt; and will &lt;strong&gt;not&lt;/strong&gt; know if you move it off the build plate, so keep 100 mm X and 87 mm in Y of the allowable build plate. It will end exactly where you started it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Iterative approach&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In many uses of g-code, &lt;em&gt;rounded&lt;/em&gt; corners are actually n-gons with a very high number n. then we only need &lt;code&gt;G1&lt;/code&gt; and can easily calculate the length of the stretches and fill in the G1. We need to iterate down to somewhat circular...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's start iterating with n=3 aka a triangle, which gives a direct line over the corner gives this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ANEnx.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ANEnx.png&quot; alt=&quot;Iteration 1&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;going to n=6 (hexagon) follows the curve a lot better...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JRSMV.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JRSMV.png&quot; alt=&quot;Iteration 2&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;going to n=12 looks almost round on a larger scale...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/STTXL.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/STTXL.png&quot; alt=&quot;Iteration 3&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and when we reach n=24, we are pretty close to the circle..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rO7dr.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rO7dr.png&quot; alt=&quot;iteration 4&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And as we go above n=6, we also get easier math for the corners, as we always get the same lengths of movement along X and Y just swapped around due to symmetry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With all these stretches defined, we could start to work in &lt;em&gt;relative&lt;/em&gt; coordinates easily, again without E, and only for the bottom left corner:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;G0 X10.66 Y2 &#xA;G1 X-1.294 Y0.17&#xA;G1 X-1.206 Y0.5&#xA;G1 X-1.036 Y0.795&#xA;G1 X-0.795 X1.036&#xA;G1 X-0.5 Y1.206&#xA;G1 X-0.17 Y1.294&#xA;G1 X0.17 Y1.294&#xA;G1 X0.5 Y1.036&#xA;...&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:29:41.667" LastActivityDate="2019-07-05T09:22:21.837" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10498" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8002" CreationDate="2019-07-05T08:56:32.653" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Inspired by the answer from Nach0z, according to my back of the notepad radiative emission approximation, you need about a 3x increase in bed dissipation to get from &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$ \Delta T$&lt;/span&gt; of 130 °C up to 170 °C. So that would correspond to an increase from 12 V &lt;em&gt;at the bed&lt;/em&gt; to 18 V. As the current increases, the wire losses would also increase. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sounds like a high power laptop charger could possibly fit the bill at 19V. Obviously this leaves a risk that the bed will be damaged, but I think it is better to aim for a steady load rather than pwm and a higher peak energy than necessary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4927" LastActivityDate="2019-07-05T08:56:32.653" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10499" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2826" CreationDate="2019-07-05T09:18:23.413" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;A suitable test part for this problem, to check if the bad scaling is linear or the result of missing steps (as was identified in this case) would be a ramp, or sequence of steps. You can check the linearity using a straight edge, and would be able to perform repeated tests to identify of there was a specific Z location where steps were more likely to be lost (for example due to some tightness in the motion system).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4927" LastActivityDate="2019-07-05T09:18:23.413" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10500" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2019-07-05T09:26:06.630" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2019-07-05T09:26:06.630" LastActivityDate="2019-07-05T09:26:06.630" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10501" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2019-07-05T09:26:06.630" Score="0" Body="For questions about the Prusa/Mendel design of Printers" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2019-07-05T09:26:06.630" LastActivityDate="2019-07-05T09:26:06.630" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10502" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-07-06T01:55:50.227" Score="4" ViewCount="1320" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there any G-code command to turn off hotend/bed heating after a specified timeout? I'd like to edit my end G-code to leave them heated to a standby temperature, rather than immediately letting them cool down, to eliminate the delay of re-heating between prints, but obviously it's not a good thing to leave them heated indefinitely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-07-06T03:37:26.360" LastActivityDate="2019-07-06T09:21:50.793" Title="Standby hotend and bed heating with inactivity timer after print?" Tags="|g-code|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10503" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10502" CreationDate="2019-07-06T03:35:18.690" Score="2" Body="&lt;h3&gt;Pausing&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could set temperatures for hotend and bed (respectively &lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#M104:_Set_Extruder_Temperature&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;code&gt;M104&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#M140:_Set_Bed_Temperature_.28Fast.29&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;code&gt;M140&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/a&gt; and after that introduce a pause/dwell time with &lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#G4:_Dwell&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;code&gt;G4&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/a&gt;. After the pause, you could lower temperatures and proceed the shutdown of the printer, as such the setting of the idle temperatures and dwell time need to be done in the beginning of your end G-code in your slicer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Not powering down&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively, you could just not power down the hotend and bed. A typical end G-code consists of de-powering the fans, steppers, temperatures and positioning the head in a parking position, e.g.:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&#xA; M106 S0              ; Turn fan off&#xA; M104 S0              ; Turn extruder off&#xA; M140 S0              ; Turn off bed&#xA;// G91                  ; Change to relative positioning&#xA;// G1 Z30 E-2 F3000     ; Raise Z 30mm (lowers the bed) NEVER DO THIS, IT WILL DESTROY YOUR PRINTER IF YOU PRINT LARGER THAN MAX-Z MINUS 30 MM&#xA;// G90                  ; Switch back to absolute mode&#xA; G1 X0 Y0             ; Move X/Y to origin&#xA; M84                  ; Disable steppers&#xA;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could easily change the temperatures to standby values:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&#xA; M106 S0              ; Turn fan off&#xA; M104 S160            ; Turn extruder to standby&#xA; M140 S40             ; Turn bed to standby&#xA;// G91                  ; Change to relative positioning&#xA;// G1 Z30 E-2 F3000     ; Raise Z 30mm (lowers the bed) NEVER DO THIS, IT WILL DESTROY YOUR PRINTER IF YOU PRINT LARGER THAN MAX-Z MINUS 30 MM&#xA;// G90                  ; Switch back to absolute mode&#xA; G1 X0 Y0             ; Move X/Y to origin&#xA; M84                  ; Disable steppers&#xA;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:29:41.667" LastActivityDate="2019-07-06T09:21:50.793" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10504" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10437" CreationDate="2019-07-06T09:45:19.080" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;after a lot of search, i used the autodesk Meshmixer to add thickness to the model. I used the blender only for modeling and didn't use the solidify modifier to add thickness to the model. Then in autodesk Meshmixer, using select→ edit → Extrude, i added thickness to the model (the new stl file is presented). It seems that the new model can be printed. However, the blue lines can be seen in the print preview of Ultimaker Cura and i dont know how to remove them. Unfortunately, i haven't a 3d printer to test the model, but it seems that it is printable.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.dropbox.com/s/u32zb0egiyrgpvo/%E2%80%8F00.stl?dl=0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;the link of repaired stl file&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JzW7Q.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JzW7Q.png&quot; alt=&quot;repaired model in cura&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iMild.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iMild.png&quot; alt=&quot;the bottom of the repaired model in print preview of cura&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16633" LastEditorUserId="16633" LastEditDate="2019-07-06T10:20:36.707" LastActivityDate="2019-07-06T10:20:36.707" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10505" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-07-06T15:04:18.773" Score="6" ViewCount="44579" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there a specific name for that problem? What causes this, and is there a way how to solve it? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Printed with PLA, 2&amp;nbsp;mm nozzle diameter, 0.2&amp;nbsp;mm layer height, 20-60&amp;nbsp;mm/s, 200&amp;nbsp;°C extruder, 60&amp;nbsp;°C bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aSzrJ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Top&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aSzrJ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Top&quot; title=&quot;Top&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nCgam.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Bottom&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nCgam.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Bottom&quot; title=&quot;Bottom&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16960" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2019-07-09T12:02:38.053" LastActivityDate="2019-07-11T01:24:28.517" Title="Rough surface when printing" Tags="|surface|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10506" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-07-06T19:21:26.727" Score="2" ViewCount="1357" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am having a problem with my Flying Bear P902 3D printer where I have to calculate the Z offset for every single print. I calculate it using this method (and store it in EEPROM) : &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/9820/specifying-z-offset-in-marlin-firmware&quot;&gt;Link to Stackoverflow post&lt;/a&gt;. Then, it will be able to print the first print with the right layer height. But, when I upload a second print afterwards, something goes wrong. It levels the bed and it starts printing too far away from the bed so it is just printing in the air. So, it must some way not have measured right. I checked the Z offset on the control panel and it does say the right offset that I calculated (-2.3). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;During the bed leveling, I do sometimes have a problem. It will try to move the bed up to touch the probe, and there is this loud screeching noise, and the bed will not move upward. But, other times it doesn't have this problem. And, I am not sure if this is related to the inconsistent bed leveling. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Printer: Flying Bear P902 (Powered by Arduino &amp;amp; Ramps 1.4)&#xA;Auto Bed Leveling: BLTouch&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway, I have no idea what is causing this problem and it is really annoying to calculate the offset every time. Do you guys have any ideas? Have you guys experienced this problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16308" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-07-06T20:34:46.607" LastActivityDate="2019-07-06T20:34:46.607" Title="Inconsistent Auto Bed Leveling - Having To Calculate Z Offset For EVERY Print" Tags="|calibration|firmware|z-axis|bed-leveling|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10507" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10477" CreationDate="2019-07-06T19:55:55.323" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;What you could also try is ASA. It is similar to ABS and is really strong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16308" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2019-07-07T08:59:43.077" LastActivityDate="2019-07-07T08:59:43.077" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10508" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10570" CreationDate="2019-07-06T21:38:16.237" Score="1" ViewCount="2248" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm attempting to print some flexible TPE filament. But I failed to imagine TPE was this difficult to print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Specs of the shop-brand filament:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Red 1.75&amp;nbsp;mm TPE (+-0.05&amp;nbsp;mm).&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Hardness: 45D.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Print temperature: 220-260&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C with 0-95&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to print &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1936797&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; on my original Prusa i3 MK3S with powder coated sheet with 0.20&amp;nbsp;mm layer with PrusaSlicer 2.0.0.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What happens? After 3 or 4 layers, the print warps a lot and detaches from the plate. The object is 40&amp;nbsp;mm long. The next image shows the print detaching from the build plate as well as a skirt of two layers height:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yfIFS.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Image of detached TPE print from build plate&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yfIFS.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Image of detached TPE print from build plate&quot; title=&quot;Image of detached TPE print from build plate&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've tried warmer/colder, more/less fan, faster/slower. I went down to 1&amp;nbsp;mm&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt;/s, which is 7&amp;nbsp;mm/s. For reference, PLA prints 15&amp;nbsp;mm&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt;/s.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I readjusted my z-cal, and when I test print a first layer with TPE it's difficult to remove from the bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also attempted the glue stick on smooth PEI sheet. Worked until the first few layers of infill, then it still warped.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do I have bad filament with too much shrink, poor settings or is this 45D just too soft for my MK3s? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Bonus pile of failures:&lt;/em&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ufVcO.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Image of failed TPE prints from build plate&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ufVcO.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Image of failed TPE prints from build plate&quot; title=&quot;Image of failed TPE prints from build plate&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16380" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-07-07T15:29:24.153" LastActivityDate="2020-01-16T07:38:41.590" Title="TPE warping problems" Tags="|warping|tpe|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10509" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-07-07T02:34:02.327" Score="2" ViewCount="4697" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have started printing about a month ago on an Ender 5 (using mostly PLA but recently also PETG) and it seems it's about time to give the print bed a more thorough cleaning than what I usually do after most prints. I'm using the flexible magnetic mat that came with the printer which has a slightly rough surface, but all of the cleaning suggestions I found so far either did not mention the bed material or were specifically for glass beds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can/should I use stuff like acetone or rubbing alcohol on this? Or should I stick to warm soap water?&#xA;I have had some fairly decent results with spectacle cleaning tissues but that will only remove grease, not filament residue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, I am occasionally having some first layer adhesion issues (especially with the PETG or when printing things with a circular base) and I was wondering whether common suggestions like glue sticks or hairspray to prepare the bed for printing  can also be applied to the flex mat?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16962" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2019-09-09T09:37:18.883" LastActivityDate="2019-09-09T09:37:18.883" Title="How would you clean/prepare a flexible/magnetic mat (e.g. Ender 5) as compared to a glass bed?" Tags="|adhesion|build-plate|maintenance|creality-ender-5|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10510" PostTypeId="6" CreationDate="2019-07-07T13:41:16.013" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am Paul Johnson, aka: Pᴀᴜʟsᴛᴇʀ2 and I am self-nominating to be a Pro Tempore Moderator here on 3dPrinting.SE&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Why?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;To provide a stable stack and help it grow to graduation.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I have a love for Stack Exchange: I love the format; I love the Q&amp;A; &lt;em&gt;I want to see it succeed&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Qualifications:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I'm currently a moderator on &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/users/4152&quot;&gt;Mechanics.SE&lt;/a&gt;. I've been a moderator there for over 2.5 years. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I believe it isn't the &lt;em&gt;quantity&lt;/em&gt; of flags which are created, but rather the &lt;em&gt;quality&lt;/em&gt; of the flags which are created.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I'm fair and impartial.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What makes me better?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I'm here everyday. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I believe if something can be handled by the community, let them. I subscribe to Jeff Atwood's &lt;a href=&quot;https://stackoverflow.blog/2009/05/18/a-theory-of-moderation/&quot;&gt;&lt;em&gt;A Theory of Moderation&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Moderators are human exception handlers, there to deal with those (hopefully rare) exceptional conditions that should not normally happen ...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I live in the Eastern time zone, which places me between the two other moderators. This helps spread out availability to ensure better coverage and therefore better moderation.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11242" LastEditorUserId="11242" LastEditDate="2019-07-07T13:41:16.013" LastActivityDate="2019-07-07T13:41:16.013" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2019-07-07T13:41:16.013" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10511" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10509" CreationDate="2019-07-07T14:05:18.520" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have the WhamBam system which uses a PEX layer over flex steel (which sticks to a magnetic sheet on the printer bed). To clean old material off, I use a &quot;brass sponge&quot; intended for cleaning soldering iron tips to remove the old plastic, then give it a wipe with a paper towel with some isopropyl alchohol (I have 99.99 anhydrous on hand as I use that for cleaning printed circuit boards as well).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The brass sponge is fairly soft, does a good job of grabbing the old plastic without tearing up the PEX layer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16523" LastActivityDate="2019-07-07T14:05:18.520" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10512" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-07-07T15:44:51.407" Score="1" ViewCount="57" Body="&lt;p&gt;I believe that CAELinux has successfully installed on a SD card on a laptop. When I rebooted what I am left with is a GRUB prompt. If I enter the chainloader command it expects things like the device name of the linux image. I really want to know if CAELinux has installed and if it runs OK. Then I shall learn more about GRUB because I have another distribution that I am interested in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I simply start CAELinux from the GRUB prompt?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16969" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-07-07T20:32:30.667" LastActivityDate="2019-07-08T02:46:44.410" Title="Tryinng to get CAELinux to boot" Tags="|linux|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ClosedDate="2019-07-08T23:30:23.897" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10513" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10514" CreationDate="2019-07-07T18:04:14.470" Score="1" ViewCount="4992" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently discovered this kit after reading this Instructables, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.instructables.com/id/Adding-More-Extruders-to-Any-3d-Printer/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Adding More Extruders to Any 3d Printer&lt;/a&gt;: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Lq4uQ.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;New CNC Shield v3 engraving machine / 3D Printer / + 4pcs A4988/DRV8825/AT2100 Driver Expansion Board for Arduino&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Lq4uQ.png&quot; alt=&quot;CNC Shield v3 engraving machine / 3D Printer / + 4pcs A4988/DRV8825/AT2100 Driver Expansion Board for Arduino&quot; title=&quot;New CNC Shield v3 engraving machine / 3D Printer / + 4pcs A4988/DRV8825/AT2100 Driver Expansion Board for Arduino&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm pretty sure I can use this kit with my board since it uses the same drivers as mine. But that's for motors, not fans. And while I know G-code pretty well, I'm not sure how I would use this to activate and deactivate a fan from G-code. There is probably a better way to do this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The board I am using is from an FLSUN Large Scale 3D printer. Here is a picture of the board: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Bq8w1.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;FLSUN printer board&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Bq8w1.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;FLSUN printer board&quot; title=&quot;FLSUN printer board&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There appears to be only one labeled pin for the fan. BUT even if there are other pins that I don't recognize, they would have to be controlled by a micro controller (G-code commands). There appear to be a bunch of un-used pins in the bottom right of the board. But if this board just can't do it, there is a newer board here: [link removed]. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It does seem like it is using Arduino and the newer board might have extra pins for a fan. But at that point, would it be easier (cheaper) to just control the fan from the extruder extender kit? Would I just set it as an extruder with a really high filament extrusion speed and send appropriate G-code commands when needed to run it at max voltage?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know on my Lulzbot Mini there is a &quot;parts cooling&quot; fan which allows you to cool off the layers as your structure rises vertically. This is a fan I want. The parts cooling fan &lt;em&gt;must&lt;/em&gt; be controlled by the micro controller. It only comes on when printing vertically.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would like to actually add two fans like this to my 3D printer. One of them is a &gt;= 5&amp;nbsp;V cooling fan like above. Another is a regular 12&amp;nbsp;V cooling fan for an extra extruder that I am adding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10369" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2019-07-08T15:10:15.123" LastActivityDate="2019-07-08T16:45:58.840" Title="How can I add an extra fan, controlled by a microcontroller, to my board?" Tags="|prusa-i3|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10514" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10513" CreationDate="2019-07-07T18:17:45.037" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.robotrebels.org/index.php?topic=769.0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;MKS Gen L v1.0&lt;/a&gt; Board you are using does support microcontroller controlled fans without doing some surface level modification to the board via the &lt;code&gt;D9/FAN&lt;/code&gt;. The port you marked FAN is not a controllable port, it runs a direct 12/24&amp;nbsp;V all the time and should be used for the Hotend cooling solution. The ports &lt;code&gt;D7/HE1&lt;/code&gt; and &lt;code&gt;D10/HE0&lt;/code&gt; are for two hotendes, corresponding to &lt;code&gt;E0&lt;/code&gt; and &lt;code&gt;E1&lt;/code&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YlGDW.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;MKS Gen L port/pin layout&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YlGDW.png&quot; alt=&quot;MKS Gen L port/pin layout&quot; title=&quot;MKS Gen L port/pin layout&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Variant A: Swappy Fans&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the more tricky variant and does need both coding and wiring expertise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll have to run both hotend cooling fans via that one port in the top left corner. Make sure they are running fast enough to keep the heatsinks cool and prevent heat creep!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your &lt;strong&gt;custom&lt;/strong&gt; Firmware will have to define &lt;code&gt;D9&lt;/code&gt; as a microcontroller controlled Fan instead of a 100&amp;nbsp;% running fan as the normal firmware is most likely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Without extra hardware, you can't get 2 individually controllable ports from &lt;code&gt;D9&lt;/code&gt;, but you can use, the fact that you don't want part cooling for a hotends in 'resting' position. So a pair of couple Normally Closed switches cab achieve disabling of the resting hotend's part cooling fan:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;make a wire splitter for D9, so that you have both &lt;code&gt;+&lt;/code&gt; and both &lt;code&gt;-&lt;/code&gt;-wires connect to the one &lt;code&gt;+&lt;/code&gt;/&lt;code&gt;-&lt;/code&gt;-pin on the board. You'll have the part cooling fans in parallel now. &#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do the same for the Hotend Cooling Fans!&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;connect each &lt;code&gt;+&lt;/code&gt;-line to a Normally Closed switch, which is installed on the hotend in a way so it triggers and opens the line if the hotend is in the resting (homing) position.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;As the line connects when the hotend moves into the build volume, the part cooling fan on the currently active hotend starts to spin while the one of the non-active hotend is isolated.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Variant B: MOSFETs and Safety&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An alternate source for the part cooling fan signals might be the SERVOS1/SERVOS2 group, where &lt;code&gt;D4&lt;/code&gt; to &lt;code&gt;D6&lt;/code&gt; and &lt;code&gt;D11&lt;/code&gt; are accessible. This leaves the FAN and top-left 12 V pinnings free for the hotend cooling. The downside is, that these pins don't likely provide 12 V but at best a 5 V digital output. However, a 0 to 5 V signal can be used to control a separate MOSFET which outputs 0 to 12 V, which then can power the part cooling fans. Due to the power draw of the Fans, a simple step-up converter is not a solution it needs a separate power supply.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Main benefit is, that this does draw less power from the board than Variant A and does not re-pin &lt;code&gt;D9&lt;/code&gt;. The &quot;Cooling Fan Board&quot; could use a 6-line ribbon cable to connect to the &lt;code&gt;SERVOS1&lt;/code&gt; pins, using the 5V as reference for the MOSFETs, &lt;code&gt;D4&lt;/code&gt;/&lt;code&gt;D5&lt;/code&gt; as the trigger signal and GND as return lines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A pre-assembled board that could serve in this position would be a &lt;a href=&quot;https://howtomechatronics.com/tutorials/arduino/arduino-dc-motor-control-tutorial-l298n-pwm-h-bridge/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;L298N Driver&lt;/a&gt;. Due to how it is set up, one could run both part cooling fans, if their speed is set up to be always equal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2019-07-08T16:45:58.840" LastActivityDate="2019-07-08T16:45:58.840" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10515" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10518" CreationDate="2019-07-07T18:41:11.547" Score="4" ViewCount="765" Body="&lt;p&gt;This basic question has been bothering me for a while.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's say I'm printing an object of height 20.1 mm with 0.2 mm layers. What will the slicer do? in other words, how will it print the last layer? Since I'm printing with 0.2 mm layers, my object will be printed in 11 layers, but the last one would make my object 20.2 mm high. Is there some sort of compensation (in Slic3r or Cura for example), or will I just get an inaccurate object?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14188" LastActivityDate="2019-07-07T20:13:31.680" Title="Object's height not a multiple of layer height" Tags="|slicing|dimensional-accuracy|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10516" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-07-07T19:48:06.660" Score="2" ViewCount="91" Body="&lt;p&gt;My end goal is getting high quality dash footage from a 6 month road trip I'm going on. From my research, very few dash cams support 4k 30fps filming, and the ones that do overwrite their own footage really quick, so instead of that I'd like to use my iPhone. I have a wide angle lens for it, and I figure I can mount it to my windshield, behind the rear-view mirror.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But here's the problem: &lt;strong&gt;there are no windshield phone mounts that allow for the angle I need.&lt;/strong&gt; They're all designed to point the phone screen at the driver, and the little ball joints that let you set the angle just don't work to point the camera straight ahead. I've tried like 5 different ones, and they all have this problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I need is a solid thing that sticks to my windshield and holds my phone in the correct direction. Once stuck, it never needs to be adjusted. I think I could use 3M strips to stick something to the glass, so the only remaining part of the mystery is this: &lt;strong&gt;A piece of plastic the exact right shape to hold my phone and point it at a specific angle.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is: &lt;strong&gt;Is this a good use case for 3D printing?&lt;/strong&gt; And if so, how would a complete amateur get started on this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A few more requirements that I'm not sure if 3D printing can meet:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It would need to withstand heat, as it would be left in the car on hot days in the south.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It can't be too brittle, as speed bumps and dirt roads will knock it around a fair bit, and it has to support a large phone with an added lens.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16971" LastEditorUserId="11157" LastEditDate="2019-07-09T04:12:13.290" LastActivityDate="2019-07-09T04:12:13.290" Title="A single angle, single phone model windshield mount -- a job for a 3D printer?" Tags="|print-quality|3d-design|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10517" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10516" CreationDate="2019-07-07T20:02:01.367" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You'd &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6119/can-you-put-pla-parts-in-your-car-in-the-sun&quot;&gt;need to print in a heat resistant material&lt;/a&gt; - ASA for example - and design the part for your needs, but this project is certainly feasible and doable with 3D printing. If that isn't enough for you, you could drill a hole to the internal cavity (it's best to have an infill pattern that does not split the internal cavity into several ones. Gyroid is one of these) and fill it with resin to make it even more sturdy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With the right design, you could also go for SLA/DLP aks resin printing, but I am not well versed in the properties of printed resins but that they have some of the best inter-layer bonds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't want to get a 3D printer yourself, order the part printed, which usually comes cheaper than an entry-level printer with better quality for a one-off project as you won't have to learn the ins and outs of your printer and how to ensure the quality in the material you choose. Some print services also provide really exotic materials.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2019-07-08T15:32:59.753" LastActivityDate="2019-07-08T15:32:59.753" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10518" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10515" CreationDate="2019-07-07T20:13:31.680" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Slicers will round off to the next nearest layer, so 20.2&amp;nbsp;mm in your case. However, you can get to 20.1&amp;nbsp;mm if you use a 0.3&amp;nbsp;mm first layer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2019-07-07T20:13:31.680" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10519" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10509" CreationDate="2019-07-08T00:15:34.017" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just about every reference I've seen for non-glass beds is to stay away from acetone. Denatured alcohol is likely a safe bet for beds with surfaces that are not impenetrable. If you can identify the bed material, you'll have a better shot at getting a definitive answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have filament residue, you won't get it clear without some mechanical effort, unless you had an adhesive layer between the bed and the filament. Even a plastic scraper can be effective in clearing the debris.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastActivityDate="2019-07-08T00:15:34.017" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10520" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10512" CreationDate="2019-07-08T02:46:44.410" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Per the &lt;a href=&quot;http://caelinux.com/downloads/stable/2018/GettingStarted.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Getting Started page&lt;/a&gt;,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;As CAELinux is a customized Xubuntu 16.04 distribution, the installation instructions (and then administration) for Xubuntu/Ubuntu  all apply to CAELinux.&#xA;  For more instructions on how to install CAELinux on hard drive, please follow the Ubuntu instructions here: &lt;a href=&quot;https://help.ubuntu.com/community/GraphicalInstall&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://help.ubuntu.com/community/GraphicalInstall&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Based on the information provided above, I think this question is off-topic for this site, and should be migrated to either Unix &amp;amp; Linux, or Ask Ubuntu.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16893" LastActivityDate="2019-07-08T02:46:44.410" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10521" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10513" CreationDate="2019-07-08T10:01:05.473" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can use the &lt;code&gt;M42&lt;/code&gt; g-code to manually set any supported digital pin, which can then be used to either enable one of the on-board MOSFETs (D7, D8, D9, D10) or an external MOSFET.&#xA;For example, &lt;code&gt;M42 P9 S255&lt;/code&gt; would enable the parts cooling fan at 100&amp;nbsp;%.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should never run any fan or heater directly off of a microcontroller pin (the ATmega2560 on your board supports up to &lt;strong&gt;40&amp;nbsp;mA&lt;/strong&gt;. Standard 5&amp;nbsp;V fans I found online tend to draw &lt;strong&gt;100&amp;nbsp;mA&lt;/strong&gt; or more).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your board supports up to four switchable &quot;power&quot; outputs - bed, heater 0, heater 1 and FAN.&#xA;Depending on what you use so far, one of those may be usable for your fans.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that on-board MOSFETs usually switch the ground side of the connected device.&#xA;This means that you for your 12&amp;nbsp;V fan, you can connect it directly to one of those connectors.&#xA;The 5&amp;nbsp;V would have to receive +5&amp;nbsp;V from elsewhere (like the +5&amp;nbsp;V pins near the bottom right mounting hole), but you can still control the fan by connecting its ground lead over one of the on-board MOSFETs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If four MOSFETs are not enough for you, the L298N module provides an easy way to control four additional fans, while using normal digital pins to control the L298N.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13171" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-07-08T11:27:15.323" LastActivityDate="2019-07-08T11:27:15.323" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10522" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2019-07-08T13:55:08.423" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2019-07-08T13:55:08.423" LastActivityDate="2019-07-08T13:55:08.423" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10523" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2019-07-08T13:55:08.423" Score="0" Body="Acetyl Styrene Acetate is a plastic that is used extensively in the Automotive industry due to its thermal stability." OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2019-07-08T13:55:08.423" LastActivityDate="2019-07-08T13:55:08.423" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10524" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10525" CreationDate="2019-07-08T14:34:07.763" Score="4" ViewCount="8427" Body="&lt;p&gt;Newbie alert...&lt;br&gt;&#xA;On my Ender-5, when I go into the &quot;Tune&quot; menu during a print and adjust the &quot;Speed&quot; value, that value will later be shown in the display next to a label saying &quot;FR&quot;. I can also adjust that value by simply turning the knob during printing (and thus started to think of it as the &quot;speed dial&quot; ;) ).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as I was able to tell so far, the &quot;FR&quot; percentage value is being applied to all four stepper motor movements and thus allows me to slow down or speed up printing on-the-fly, e.g. to make up for sub-optimal speed settings chosen during slicing (after all, I'm still learning).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I only recently learned that FR is actually short for &quot;Flow Rate&quot; (or is it &quot;Feed Rate&quot;?) and that seems to imply that this is probably about more than just motor speed... Also, there seems to be no equivalent to the Speed setting in Octoprint: All I have on the Control tab are two distinct sliders for &quot;Feedrate&quot; and &quot;Flowrate&quot;. Would I always have to move both to achieve the same effect?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can anyone clarify? What implications of changing FR/Speed might I be missing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16962" LastActivityDate="2019-07-08T14:47:18.243" Title="What exactly is the relationship between Flow/Feed Rate and (Print) Speed?" Tags="|octoprint|speed|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10525" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10524" CreationDate="2019-07-08T14:47:18.243" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;By turning the knob in the main screen, you're adjusting &quot;feed rate&quot;.&#xA;This is essentially a factor that all g-code speed settings are multiplied with - &quot;speed dial&quot; seems an appropriate name for it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;Flow rate&quot; is something different altogether - this is multiplied with the extrusion commands. It has the same effect as changing your extruders steps-per-mm.&#xA;You can adjust under- / overextrusion with this on the fly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13171" LastActivityDate="2019-07-08T14:47:18.243" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10526" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10516" CreationDate="2019-07-08T17:29:07.117" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;This certainly is a problem you could use a 3D printer to solve, but it requires getting good results with printing in materials that aren't the easiest to work with. It might be easier to go with one of the mounts you already have, and just adapting it for a different range of angles by mounting a wedge-shaped piece between it and the windshield. This could be done with 3D printing (note the materials requirements still), or if you have access to tools for cutting, drilling holes, etc., by just starting with a chunk of material, cutting it to the right shape, and adding some holes to mount suction cups and attach the existing phone mount.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2019-07-08T17:29:07.117" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10527" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-07-08T19:26:50.730" Score="2" ViewCount="15848" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently installed an original BLTouch V3 on my Ender 3 pro and ever since I can’t seem to get a decent print. My first layers are horrible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The install wasn’t so bad, I really thought it would be plug and play thereafter. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I currently have:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Version 1.1.4 board with non silent steppers&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Marlin 1.1.9 with bug fix as per the teaching tech video&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Printing on glass, bed @ 60&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C, extruder @ 200&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have checked&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bed is level.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;X gantry is squared/straight.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Belts seem tight. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tried my best at getting the Z offset right.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Checked E steps are correct.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;BLTouch seems to be working - not 100&amp;nbsp;% sure as it’s my first time using an auto level sensor.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PwByv.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;First layer view of print with BLTouch V3&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PwByv.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;First layer view of print with BLTouch V3&quot; title=&quot;First layer view of print with BLTouch V3&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sub&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/R9ogu.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;More pictures here&lt;/a&gt; for those who can help.&#xA;&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have reset the offset and still having difficulty I’m hoping the following pics would help. They bed level squares that prints squares on all four corners and the centre of the bed plate. If I raise the offset any higher I have difficulty with prints sticking. See &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LBZeE.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TOnxu.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TOnxu.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16976" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2019-08-11T21:26:50.060" LastActivityDate="2019-08-11T21:26:50.060" Title="Ender 3 BLTouch first layer problems" Tags="|creality-ender-3|bed-leveling|bltouch|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10528" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10527" CreationDate="2019-07-08T19:53:01.613" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;So the weird ridges around each line look like a form of over-extrusion that happens when your nozzle is too close to the bed. The gaps on the other side may be areas that were so thin that they didn't survive removal from the bed, or just areas that the plastic couldn't reach because the nozzle was basically dragging. I don't personally have any experiences with touch sensors (yet! got an inductive probe I'll be installing soon) but I can only assume that you have the ability to set the probe's Z offset from the nozzle. If that is the case, try setting your Z offset such that the nozzle is further away from the bed after probing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd suggest starting by raising the nozzle about 0.2 mm, and fine-tuning from there. If you continue to get the raised ridges adjacent to each printed line, keep raising the nozzle until you don't get them anymore. At some point you should actually get to a point where there's gaps between the lines because the nozzle is &lt;em&gt;too&lt;/em&gt; far, and at that point you can start bumping the offset back down again to try and perfect that Z offset.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternately you could do what I do and print on a raft with a 50% density first layer, but I get the feeling if you're printing on glass you probably want to be able to just print on the glass.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16621" LastActivityDate="2019-07-08T19:53:01.613" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10529" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-07-08T21:32:38.357" Score="2" ViewCount="728" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Background:&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have an Alfawise U20 (CR10 clone) and am still somewhat of a noob, though I've been learning as much as quickly as time will allow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Alfawise U20 has &quot;out-of-filament&quot; detection, though I'm not 100&amp;nbsp;% certain how it works. I think that there's a roller across from the toothed knob that drives the filament into the Bowden tube, and if the roller doesn't roll, that means the filament has run out(?).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZBVMv.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Alfawise U20 extruder and filament run-out sensor&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZBVMv.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Alfawise U20 extruder and filament run-out sensor&quot; title=&quot;Alfawise U20 extruder and filament run-out sensor&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've become fairly proficient printing with PLA but this is the first time I've tried printing with PETG.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Problem:&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Almost immediately after starting a print, the printer pauses the print and displays message &quot;Out of filament. Would you like to change filament?&quot; There's not even time for the toothed knob to click, which I've seen when trying to print PLA too fast/too cold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I manually extrude some filament, it seems to work fine. When I resume the print, it will print for anywhere between ~2 seconds &amp;amp; ~5 minutes before pausing again, prompting me to change filament.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm printing at 240&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C. I've seen opinions vary pretty far &amp;amp; wide wrt how hot to print PETG, with some people saying you can print successfully as cold as 215&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C, and others saying you should crank it up to 250+&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C. &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B07QKPVBQ8&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;This filament&lt;/a&gt; is rated for 230-250&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C extrusion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Again, manually extruding filament works fine. No slippage, no clicking. Smooth extrusion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've read that PETG is extremely hygroscopic. Could my problem be caused by the filament having absorbed too much water? How would I even determine if this was the cause?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What else could be causing my problem? I've read some printers' &quot;out of filament&quot; detection have problems with translucent filaments?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16979" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-07-09T11:05:40.647" LastActivityDate="2019-07-12T21:59:28.410" Title="Printing with PETG, printer says it's out of filament when it clearly is not" Tags="|extruder|extrusion|petg|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10530" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10516" CreationDate="2019-07-09T01:57:09.760" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Why not try a GoPro camera? They now have 4K, image stabilized camera with all kinds of accessory mounts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://shop.gopro.com/cameras/hero7-silver/CHDHC-601-master.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://shop.gopro.com/cameras/hero7-silver/CHDHC-601-master.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16523" LastActivityDate="2019-07-09T01:57:09.760" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10531" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10527" CreationDate="2019-07-09T06:02:33.317" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the image is showing a view of the bottom layer of the print, the most probable issue is that the nozzle is too far away from the bed when printing the first layer. This manifests itself as almost not flattening out the deposited filament lines, hence you can see through them. Also it might be a good idea to check if the extrusion process is giving you enough filament (it could be that you are under-extruding); a &lt;a href=&quot;/q/6483&quot;&gt;calibration of the extruder&lt;/a&gt; might help in this respect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To lower the nozzle/decrease the nozzle to bed distance you can use the menu of the printer to set a smaller value. Also, G-code &lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#M851:_Set_Z-Probe_Offset&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;code&gt;M851&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/a&gt; may be used to set a new (smaller) value (e.g. &lt;code&gt;M851 Z-1.23&lt;/code&gt; when the sensor trigger point to the bed is 1.23 mm); don't forget to store the value to memory with &lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#M500:_Store_parameters_in_non-volatile_storage&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;code&gt;M500&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/a&gt; (if enabled in firmware). Sending of G-codes to the machine can be done by &quot;printing&quot; the commands stored in a &lt;code&gt;.g&lt;/code&gt; text file directly from the SD card, or using a so-called terminal interface that many 3D Printer software applications offer (e.g. OctoPrint, Pronterface as part of Printrun software suite, Repetier-Host, etc.).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-07-09T12:48:32.167" LastActivityDate="2019-07-09T12:48:32.167" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10533" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-07-09T08:46:12.143" Score="4" ViewCount="499" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a bit of a weird question, and I imagine the answer might simply be &quot;no.&quot; But here goes anyway:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm writing some code that generates shapes for 3D printing via &quot;implicit surfaces,&quot; i.e. a mathematical function f(x,y,z) that is positive inside the shape and negative outside it. This works pretty well for designing the kind of shapes I want to print, but the problem is, turning the implicit surface into a good mesh is &lt;em&gt;hard&lt;/em&gt; - there are some libraries that can do it, but they're kind of finnicky and you have to play with parameters a lot to get it to work well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I was thinking: the only reason I need a mesh in the first place is to send it to a slicer, which will ultimately throw away the mesh and turn it into gcode instead. My plan was to do&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;code&gt;implicit function --&amp;gt; STL file --&amp;gt; gcode&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;but I'm wondering if there are any slicers that will let me skip the intermediate step and let me just do&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;code&gt;implicit function --&amp;gt; gcode&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;instead. That is, my code would supply a 3D grid of voxels, containing the value of the function at each 3D point, and the slicer would create the gcode from that instead of from an STL file.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems that Shapeways have a nice and simple format called &lt;a href=&quot;https://abfab3d.com/svx-format/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;SVX&lt;/a&gt; that is exactly this, but as far as I can tell, this is only supported by Shapeways and not by any FDM slicing software.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another option would be for my code to supply a sequence of 2D polygons, one for each layer of the printed model, so the sequence would be&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;code&gt;implicit function --&amp;gt; big list of slices --&amp;gt; gcode&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This would be both easier and more accurate than first converting it into a mesh, and I assume the slicer must generate this kind of representation anyway, before it calculates the path for the print head to take.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suppose the question is, is there an existing CAD format that supports either of these options, that is also supported by existing slicer software? If so then I can just write my code to output in that format and it should just work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="612" LastEditorUserId="612" LastEditDate="2019-11-10T01:54:46.370" LastActivityDate="2019-11-12T01:08:53.890" Title="Slicing directly from non-mesh data?" Tags="|slicing|software|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10534" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10533" CreationDate="2019-07-09T09:12:58.403" Score="2" Body="&lt;h2&gt;No, not natively&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To the current point, all slicers in frequent use do use some kind of 3D model with explicit surfaces to cut up into slices and then solve the path functions to create the G-code. The model can be in STL or OBJ or some other format, depending on the slicer, but at this point (November 2019), no slicing program I know about supports direct math as input.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Probably make it yourself?&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, you have a way to design the models by solving a mathematical formula. You could probably use the program that solves the formulae to also act as a slicer of some sorts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One software that might form a base could be Cura, which allows writing plugins, so there might be a way to have Cura automatically solve the surface formula and then plug that into the slicing without storing the intermediate data as an STL.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Slic3r might also work as a base since the whole source code is open. It would be a similar endeavor as modifying Cura.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:29:41.667" LastActivityDate="2019-11-11T08:53:36.413" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10535" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8172" CreationDate="2019-07-09T09:22:53.910" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;A push-fit, or rather snap fit, feature can come in several shapes and forms. Let's look at the example of a snap buckle, inspired by &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tw4iP0luFVU&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Angus video on the tpic&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5g6NR.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5g6NR.png&quot; alt=&quot;Simple Buckle...&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This Buckle has a harsh hook, it offers no way to push it in after finding its resting place, it is pretty much a &amp;quot;no release, no safety release&amp;quot; type. But with slight alterations it can become a safety buckle just by altering the 90° angle in the middle and providing a slope while offering a place to press the buckle in at the catch offers user release. Now, what does that have to do with dimensioning?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Dimensioning a piece&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When deciding about the dimensions of a feature we need to evaluate several factors against each other:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Intended use&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Printability and print orientation&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Material choice&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's discuss the three separately.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Intended Use&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The shape is dictated by the function of our part. Do we need a one-time snap fit that keeps the internals of our box closed forever? Do we need to open the buckle whenever we take off a backpack? Do we need a safety release to prevent the backpack from strangling the user if it catches somewhere? As we design the part for the use, and its intended loads, we also design minimum sizes for some features: a user-release buckle or snap fit needs to be large enough to be manipulated by a human (with the right tool), and the dimensions have to be large enough so the part can bear the intended loads.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Material Choice&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Different plastics behave differently under stress. ABS is known to be somewhat flexible in comparison to PLA, bending before breaking &lt;em&gt;softly&lt;/em&gt; while PLA shatters once its maximum load is broken. The choice of the material also dictates the wall thicknesses, and thus the dimensions, we can use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As an example, I have printed one of these &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2275654&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Z-Axis tension triangles&lt;/a&gt; in PLA for my TronXY-X1. Due to how this part is designed, the bent arm can bend a little but wants to return to its original shape, thus forcing the straight arms apart. By this, it applies force on the wheels which in turn roll tight on the beam in between. Even as this is PLA, the work on the part is still in the elastic deformation area due to the sheer size of the item - the lever is quite long to take the little flex PLA has and distribute it over the whole length of the arms.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Print considerations&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, we have to keep in mind we print our parts layer by layer and the weakest part of a print is the inter-layer bonding. So the strongest snap-fit will have its bending lever printed in the XY plane while the weakest has its lever bend in a way that the bending occurs along with the XY slices.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, we can use this to our advantage if we want to: I had printed &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:216652&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this for StarWarsDay&lt;/a&gt; this year, and the little &lt;code&gt;det_button.stl&lt;/code&gt; is printed with the levers of the snap-fits bending in the XY layer. They are also extremely fragile (1-2 walls). From own experience, they survive being pushed into their respective hole but can't be extracted without destroying the levers, making this piece pretty much act like a tamper seal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:29:41.667" LastActivityDate="2019-07-09T09:22:53.910" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10537" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10483" CreationDate="2019-07-09T18:47:36.210" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had such effects and fixed it by reducing the flow. It might be that your filament is thicker than it should be. Therefore too much filament ends up in the nozzle. Once the molten filament accumulates enough to rise to the cold end of the hot end it solidifies and nothing moves anymore -&gt; clicking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So either try to go with the Flow from 100% down to 96% or change the Filament width setting of the slicer. Both will have the same result of g-Codes that push less plastic. If you see under extrusion then you overdid it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="204" LastActivityDate="2019-07-09T18:47:36.210" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10538" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10635" CreationDate="2019-07-10T04:48:36.217" Score="6" ViewCount="2585" Body="&lt;p&gt;Recently (in 2017) there was &lt;a href=&quot;https://m.box.com/shared_item/https%3A%2F%2Fumich.box.com%2Fs%2Fn9cvs27ckehdr64gzv5igtmboykymgk6&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;a paper&lt;/a&gt; that got some publicity by researchers who are using a B spline algorithm to reduce vibrations in 3D printers. But before them, a B Spline implementation seems to have been first been made open-source by an alias named DeepSoic &lt;a href=&quot;https://hackaday.io/project/7045-splinetravel&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;. I would like to be able to print faster using the method described in the &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprint.com/195734/um-update-algorithm/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;research paper&lt;/a&gt;, through post-processing G-code. I'm pretty sure these two sources use basically the same technique but I could be misunderstanding things.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically instead of stopping and starting for travel moves, speed changes are done in a curvy fashion, so the head never stops and the printer never shakes. This makes the print smoother and also faster. I think printing 10 times faster is something that is really awesome once you try it. Laser cutting relies on cubic splines for a different reason; to create curves in space. But it seems like these techniques are doing something unique to to 3D printing -- using them to adjust head acceleration/de-acceleration to create smoother movement arcs of the print head. Since laser cutters have a constant head movement, this technique wouldn't help them much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The downside seems to be that it makes way more G-code commands, overloading the USB port, since it's sending all the points on a curve so quickly. I'm assuming a smart person today would really only use it through an SD card (which has disadvantages) or if they bought a 3D printer with a free Wi-Fi module thrown in (which also has disadvantages). Maybe a high baud rate helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was wondering if there are any more established ways to use this obviously extremely important and beneficial and simple algorithm. Initially I was thinking that this is obviously something that should be added as a checkbox in a slicer, and not something to be implemented in Marlin. But after writing this post I realized that a Marlin implementation would allow you to use this technique over USB, but only if the slicer steedleaders are also using its special G-codes for this optimization. I don't care if it's a post-processing technique like the research paper's or a special Marlin-friendly version, I just want to use this technique even if I have to use this Huawei Wi-Fi module.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically I would like to know the best way to get started using this technique through a slicer or other software.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think there is a miscommunication between users of CNC laser cutters and users of 3D printers. In laser cutting the arcs are used to define the path of the cut, which would be equivalent to filament extrusion. In laser cutting, the motion of the laser itself is constant. But in 3D printing, arcs can be used to smooth the speed of the printhead as it moves across the perimeter, and then to infill. It is using arcs for controlling the head well which isn't a problem in laser cutting. Since it's about the head movement, and not the model itself, I don't see how the STL file really matters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's really about using an arc to set head speed (a first derivative of position). Not anything about the shape of the model (which would just be position). At least that's my interpretation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Wi-Fi module is interesting because it receives an IP address from my router, then my router stops listing it as a connected device. But it still connected, because I can access it wirelessly. I am going to look into it more once I can fix some other problems with this dual-head. But so far there's a reason to think it might be backdoored.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10369" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:29:41.667" LastActivityDate="2021-05-12T21:16:18.853" Title="How to post-process G-code to make prints faster using splines and arcs?" Tags="|g-code|slicing|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10540" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10545" CreationDate="2019-07-10T07:36:56.617" Score="4" ViewCount="1001" Body="&lt;p&gt;If a customer sends me a non-commercial 3D model to print, am I allowed to charge money for the 3D printing process? I understand I cannot charge anything for the model nor offer it as a part of my business.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I cannot download the model myself, print and sell it, but if the customer downloads it and sends it to me for me to print it, is it a violation of the license or not?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16997" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2019-07-10T09:20:10.750" LastActivityDate="2019-07-10T20:18:48.240" Title="Printing non-commercial model to make money" Tags="|3d-models|legal|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10541" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10540" CreationDate="2019-07-10T08:26:40.560" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Intellectual property law is complex, so you might want to consider getting proper legal advice. However, to respect the original designer's intent you need to look at what their license permits and try not to find a loophole in the process. There is nothing to stop you asking the designer (in public or private) to clarify their intent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The biggest 'non-commercial' restriction reason is to protect the design idea, and stop someone mass-producing a clever design for profit. This applies irrespective of the original designer's intent to monetise their work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another big reason might be to 'hold back' the time invested in the design. Maybe the designer wants to share something they spent a lot of time on, for individuals to appreciate rather than profit from. The designer would presumably gain reputation as a result of wider knowledge of their work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sometimes, a design inherits licensing restrictions from a 3rd party (even maybe from the design tools used). For example, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.autodesk.com/company/legal-notices-trademarks/terms-of-service-autodesk360-web-services/autodesk-web-services-entitlements&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Fusion360&lt;/a&gt; can be used for free by small companies, students, or for hobbies and personal learning, but has restrictions on &lt;strong&gt;commercial, professional or for-profit&lt;/strong&gt; use. In that case, you would need to ask clarification from the tool provider.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The case you describe is complicated. You can't sell the printed part, but a 3rd party &lt;em&gt;can&lt;/em&gt; probably contract you to print the part (or rent time/access to a printer). However, your contract rate can't include any element of value derived from the model. Assuming there is no explicit license condition, you should be OK if you charge for your direct costs. As soon as you include time, profit, or any modification to the model, you are on less solid ground.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To consider a non-obvious use-case of the Fusion 360 license, a student may well not have their own printer (particularly for an exotic material, or living in university accommodation). Can they contract a fabrication company to commercially produce or evaluate their model for the purposes of education or not?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't expect you will find a definitive answer to this question since there are too many variables. Creative Commons have a page about their &lt;a href=&quot;https://wiki.creativecommons.org/wiki/NonCommercial_interpretation&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Non Commercial&lt;/a&gt; license which identifies some things to consider when you interpret a license.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As noted in the comments, you can divide your time and professional contribution (and thus billable items) into several steps. By providing a model, the customer skips step 1:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;making the digital model&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;preproduction (slicing)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;printing&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;postproduction (cleaning off support)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A clear license would refer to all of these.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4927" LastEditorUserId="4927" LastEditDate="2019-07-10T10:10:10.227" LastActivityDate="2019-07-10T10:10:10.227" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10543" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10483" CreationDate="2019-07-10T13:40:17.470" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Feeding Too Fast?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The feed rate required of the extruder is related to the volume per second divided by the cross-sectional area of the filament.  The Fxxxx number is not the filament feed rate directly, but is the linear motion rate for the nozzle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The F1800 corresponds to a motion of 1800mm/min, of 30mm/sec.  This is reasonable but could be made slower by changing the slic3r settings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Units Set to mm?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check that the g-code is specifying millimeters (mm) as the basic unit.  There should be a G21 in the g-code to do set units to mm.  If not present, add it to the &quot;Custom G-code&quot; section in the &quot;printer parameters&quot; for the start of a job.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Retraction Heating the Heat Break?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To eliminate the possibility of retraction bringing the heat up into the heat-break, try turning off all retraction.  The print will be stringy, but this is trying to solve the problem, not yet to optimize the print.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Jam in the Heat Break or Cold End?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the filament stops extruding, is it jammed tightly into extruder assembly?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With the extruder hot, is it difficult to pull out the filament?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If so, you may have heat creeping into the heat break, which should be cooled by the cold end and possibly a heat sink.  Do you have air flowing over the cold-end and the heat-break?  If you are getting heat-break or cold-end jams, the cooling is not adequate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Heater Problem?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is the heater heating well enough?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is heat being transferred into the filament?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How big is your test object for which the first two layers print well?  If the object is small, plastic that is already molten in the nozzle may be sufficient for the first two layers.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are using something like Repetier Host to control the printer over USB, you can see a graph of thermister temperature, which should not drop more than a few degrees when printing starts.  If the temperature is dropping more than 5°C, there may be a heating problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If there is a heating problem, it could be anywhere in the energy chain, from the power supply, wiring, FET switch, PID settings, bad heater cartridge, and high thermal resistance between heater cartridge and the hot end.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2082" LastActivityDate="2019-07-10T13:40:17.470" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10544" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10505" CreationDate="2019-07-10T20:13:21.093" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have experienced this problem.  This picture is one that I could have taken. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It has always been because I was putting too much plastic into the available space.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This has been caused two things: overextrusion -- squirting out too much plastic for the intended layer height, and the bed being too &quot;high&quot; so that the gap between the nozzle and the bed is too thin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In both cases, too much plastic is trying to be placed in too small a volume.  The plastic has to go somewhere, and ripples follow.  Because the nozzle rubs against the adjacent lines which have already been deposited, an up-bump pushes up the nozzle on the line beside the bump, and a coherent pattern of ripples can form.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &quot;bump up&quot; is a real effect from the elasticity of the Z-axis, including all the resulting strains of twisting and lifting the nozzle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2082" LastActivityDate="2019-07-10T20:13:21.093" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10545" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10540" CreationDate="2019-07-10T20:18:48.240" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I agree that intellectual property is complex.  I am not a lawyer, but have been in the middle of patent and copyright actions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my non-legal opinion, you are providing a printing service for which you are free to charge your customer whatever you agree on.  You are not responsible for the disposition of the resulting objects.  You do not know how your customer intends to use them.  They may be using them for commercial or non-commercial activities.  They may have a license to use them in a way that is unknown to you, and, again IMO, they have no obligation to disclose their relationship with the IP holder.  That license could be part of their trade advantage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the customer asks you to work with the design to make changes, and the license prohibits derivative works, I would be careful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Never-the-less, the smell test always applies.  If it seems to be illegal, unethical, or immoral, you might choose to forgo the customer and avoid any possibility of being tainted by their activities, if it should turn out that they are behaving badly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2082" LastActivityDate="2019-07-10T20:18:48.240" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10546" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10584" CreationDate="2019-07-10T21:25:07.453" Score="3" ViewCount="543" Body="&lt;p&gt;PET-G is the main filament I use. I can achieve high quality of my prints with my Prusa i3 mk3s printer. Recently however, I've recently changed my nozzle from the default 0.4mm to the 1.2mm. I watched the online video tutorial on how to do it properly and did the whole process carefully. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Temperature: 250&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C/100&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C&#xA;Speed: max 200&amp;nbsp;%, but results are the same even all the higher ones&amp;nbsp;.&#xA;Layer height: 0.35&amp;nbsp;mm&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With my first print (and the next ones too) on the new nozzle I noticed lots of under-extrusion with infill (holes). LOTS of stringing although I've increased retraction. What's the reason ? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16798" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-07-14T18:17:15.017" LastActivityDate="2019-07-14T18:18:22.917" Title="PET-G under-extrusion after changing the nozzle to a 1.2 mm d. one (Prusa i3 mk3s and PrusaSlicer v2.0)" Tags="|print-quality|prusa-i3|3d-models|petg|underextrusion|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10547" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10505" CreationDate="2019-07-10T23:13:10.820" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This could be a number of things, I personally think it could be either over extrusion or an issue with one of the belts. Depending on the printer, you may need to manually go in and adjust your steps per millimeter, which you should be able to find a guide on. If that doesn't work, then look into belt tension adjustment. Hope this is able to help! I like to use the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/over-extrusion/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Simplify3D Print Quality Guide&lt;/a&gt; for situations like this, it tends to be very useful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17001" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-07-11T01:24:28.517" LastActivityDate="2019-07-11T01:24:28.517" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10548" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10222" CreationDate="2019-07-10T23:16:23.793" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It really depends on the tape. In my case, I've used various types of blue painters tape in bed adhesion situations and have only had one occasion where it sticks to the part. (All experience is with PLA) Best advice I can give is give it a shot, and be sure to wait for the part to cool before removing it from the bed for the best chance at not having tape stuck to the part. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17001" LastActivityDate="2019-07-10T23:16:23.793" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10549" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10529" CreationDate="2019-07-10T23:40:09.657" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Shoutout to @0scar for posting a photo of the filament sensor, that was super helpful. Also thanks to everyone else who pointed me to the filament sensor and resources around that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also tracked down &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.printer3d.org/3d-printers/alfawise/alfawise-u20-large-format-3d-printer-review.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this review&lt;/a&gt; which had great information around my printer's filament sensor as well. It turns out that the hole that goes to the sensor is way too big and there's a lot of play with the filament. As I jiggled the filament up &amp;amp; down I could hear the sensor clicking on &amp;amp; off, clearly indicating that if the angle of entry of the filament was too low, the sensor would not be depressed and this would continue to be a problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So for my next print, I did what that reviewer suggested and simply unscrewed the sensor &amp;amp; taped it so it would not stop my print. My print was unsuccessful for other reasons (under-extrusion/failed to adhere to the build plate ), but at least I think I've figured out what's going on with my filament sensor. Thanks again everyone!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16979" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-07-12T21:59:28.410" LastActivityDate="2019-07-12T21:59:28.410" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10550" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10589" CreationDate="2019-07-11T08:44:58.130" Score="3" ViewCount="571" Body="&lt;p&gt;Am just wondering if any conclusions can be drawn from this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0RNE3.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Photo of poor adhesion&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0RNE3.png&quot; alt=&quot;Photo of poor adhesion&quot; title=&quot;Photo of poor adhesion&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Three corners are solid, but not the one in the centre of the plate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bed was levelled before printing (and checked afterwards also). Even though the photo may &lt;em&gt;appear&lt;/em&gt; to show a slant or lower corner (where the print is coming off), there is not. The bed is level, relative to the extruder, at room temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The temperature of the bed is about 70&amp;nbsp;°C. I get inconsistent readings (with laser thermometer) but to the finger it feels about the same everywhere.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's a glass bed, presumably with some coating. Is it degraded? Local temperature variation? Any ideas anyone?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9201" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-12-10T05:54:02.057" LastActivityDate="2019-12-10T05:54:02.057" Title="Build plate adhesion, PLA" Tags="|pla|adhesion|build-plate|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10551" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-07-11T09:47:27.473" Score="4" ViewCount="11178" Body="&lt;p&gt;How to successfully pause 3D printing and turn off the printer and the next day, continue to print the model?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16830" LastActivityDate="2023-11-15T00:14:19.340" Title="Stop and continue 3D printing" Tags="|print-quality|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10552" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-07-11T11:02:15.243" Score="2" ViewCount="1266" Body="&lt;p&gt;So after a long print the walls in the print begin to weaken and it appears they might not be printed at all.  In the upside down picture you can see the weakness where the two pieces are separated.  I'm wondering if perhaps reducing my speed and changing the extrusion size from .35 to .45 which is larger than the extruder itself.  Thanks for any help and suggestions!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/L3xt3.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/L3xt3.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17004" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-12-10T05:56:18.133" LastActivityDate="2019-12-10T05:56:18.133" Title="3D print appears to print very weak walls in long print" Tags="|underextrusion|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10553" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10550" CreationDate="2019-07-11T12:23:00.447" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;From here:  &lt;a href=&quot;https://io3dprint.com/review-anycubic-i3-mega-ultrabase/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://io3dprint.com/review-anycubic-i3-mega-ultrabase/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Ultrabase Bed&#xA;  The Anycubic i3 Mega Ultrabase is the latest version in the Anycubic i3 family. As hinted in the name, the main upgrade from the previous version is the Ultrabase bed. This is a textured coating on the Borosilicate glass bed that means you don’t need to apply any glue or tape to the bed to make your prints stick to it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Ultrabase is similar to the popular BuildTak beds except unlike BuildTak it doesn’t wear off and the most significant benefit is that parts are exceptionally easy to remove once the bed has cooled.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The Ultrabase surface has a Moh’s hardness of over 7. This means you can safely use metal scrapers and blades to clean it without risk of it scratching!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Perhaps it was just not cleaned sufficiently from a prior print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16523" LastActivityDate="2019-07-11T12:23:00.447" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10554" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10552" CreationDate="2019-07-11T12:31:40.923" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;What you refer to as weak walls in fact are under-extruded walls. This can be caused by multiple sources, but, since the print recovers this most probably is caused by filament that is entangled on the spool (this causes more friction for the extruder and as such less flow, so under-extrusion; like as if the filament is being pulled back). Any other source that may induce extra friction is equally valid. E.g. kink in filament when using a Bowden configuration (long time extra friction in tube) or friction on the spool itself (I once had severe under-extrusion as the spindle of the spool caught a plastic bag which got wrapped around).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-07-12T22:02:48.197" LastActivityDate="2019-07-12T22:02:48.197" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10555" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10552" CreationDate="2019-07-11T13:23:54.277" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A filament tangle is one possibility, one alternative is that you are seeing a jam in the extruder. The trigger for a jam might be excessive retraction, heat soak or some other issue with the heat-break. Less likely, you might have an electrical problem which is position dependant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The extrusion-related issues won't necessarily react in an 'obvious' way to any tweaks you make to the parameters (for example, slower might exacerbate heat-soak because the downward filament flow and thus cooling effect is lower).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4927" LastActivityDate="2019-07-11T13:23:54.277" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10556" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10551" CreationDate="2019-07-11T14:34:23.720" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;1) Cut the model up in several parts and print one each day. Remove each part every day and in the end, glue them all together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) Cut the model up in several parts and each day, add a G-code to the file to be printed so it lowers the heat-bed and thus starts to print on top of yesterdays print. This cannot be used when the printer is auto-calibrating as the printer-head would crash into the already printed part. It would probably be tricky.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3) Pause the printer in the evening, then resume next day (don't forget to lower temperatures and rise them again tomorrow).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8328" LastActivityDate="2019-07-11T14:34:23.720" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10557" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10551" CreationDate="2019-07-11T15:17:04.613" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some printers have built-in functionality for resume after power-loss. I believe this is a standard part of the Marlin firmware now; I know the Creality Ender 3 has it and I don't believe it was a nonstandard addition (and if it was, their source was released in accordance with the GPL anyway, so it could be merged). So if you printer doesn't already have the functionality, but is amenable to a firmware upgrade/replacement to a version of Marlin that does, it should be possible to get it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have an Ender 3, but I haven't tried this feature so I can't speak to how well it actually works.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2019-07-11T15:17:04.613" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10558" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10551" CreationDate="2019-07-11T18:04:12.473" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recommend that you don't turn off the printer and resume the next day. If the heat bed cools down the part could become unstuck. The printer must be kept hot for the entire time that you need to print; unless it's PLA which tends to be more forgiving. Also Turning off the printer and turning it back on will cause it to loose it's position. Each time you home the axis of the printer it could home in a slightly different location. If you resumed the print under those conditions it would leave a clear line on the outer walls that is indicative of the layers not lining up properly. Lastly, if you let the nozzle ooze for period of time, you will have to purge the nozzle before you could print again. In this regard be prepared for some air printing for the first few movements. Depending on what you are printing, this could result in a build failure. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Needless to say, people have been able to recover a print under power off/failure conditions, but that's not a strategy to 3d printing. Those were mitigation efforts to exception cases.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12857" LastActivityDate="2019-07-11T18:04:12.473" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10559" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10551" CreationDate="2019-07-11T18:37:44.760" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you enable &lt;code&gt;M413&lt;/code&gt; in Marlin firmware, the printer will write a resume printing file to SD card e.g. every layer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From &lt;a href=&quot;http://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M413.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;M413 - Power-loss Recovery documentation&lt;/a&gt; I quote:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Enable or disable the Power-loss Recovery feature. When this feature is enabled, the state of the current print job (SD card only) will be saved to a file on the SD card. If the machine crashes or a power outage occurs, the firmware will present an option to Resume the interrupted print job. In Marlin 2.0 the &lt;code&gt;POWER_LOSS_RECOVERY&lt;/code&gt; option must be enabled.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This feature operates without a power-loss detection circuit by writing to the recovery file periodically (e.g., once per layer), or if a &lt;code&gt;POWER_LOSS_PIN&lt;/code&gt; is configured then it will write the recovery info only when a power-loss is detected. The latter option is preferred, since constant writing to the SD card can shorten its life, and the print will be resumed where it was interrupted rather than repeating the last layer. (Future implementations may allow use of the EEPROM or the on-board SD card.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This means if you cut the power you can resume the print layer, the only problem is that the part must remain attached to the plate, if it comes loose it is hard to resume printing. This feature is now commonly found on printers these days.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The regular pause and resume functionality of the printer will not work when the power is cut over night, i.e. no recovery file is written in such a case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:29:41.667" LastActivityDate="2019-07-11T20:27:00.027" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10560" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-07-11T21:56:43.277" Score="1" ViewCount="1438" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently got a MakerBot Replicator 2 from somebody. When I got it, it was not in a working state. The problem is that the LCD screen does not turn on. When turning the printer on, the 5&amp;nbsp;V and 24&amp;nbsp;V lights light up and the little lights from the BotSteps (this is how MakerBot calls their Pololu style stepper drivers) also turn on. Furthermore, the LED lighting at the top of the machine also lights up. But, nothing else happens. I am not able to turn on the LCD screen. When connecting the printer to a computer, the printer does show up in Makerbot Desktop though. I have tried to update the firmware but there is still no change (it could be that I did it wrong as I have never owned a Makerbot machine). The Makerbot Desktop did say that the upload was successful and that the current version of firmware is the latest version: 7.6. I read &lt;a href=&quot;http://bilbycnc.freshdesk.com/support/solutions/articles/3000036447-machine-on-but-screen-blank-replicator-2-and-2x-&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; that it could be the BotSteps (motor drivers). So, I took those out and tried powering on the 3D printer but the LCD screen still did not light up, so it is probably not those either.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could it be the LCD screen? Or is it the Mightyboard? Or something else?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;What have I done already?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I checked the cable of the LCD screen and the screen itself but it looks like it is in a good/decent state (no real big scratches or anything). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a picture of the screen without the SD card in it:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PucjS.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Picture of LCD Screen without SD card&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PucjS.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Picture of LCD Screen without SD card&quot; title=&quot;Picture of LCD Screen without SD card&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a picture of the LCD screen with the SD card:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5fFiz.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Picture of LCD screen with SD card&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5fFiz.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Picture of LCD screen with SD card&quot; title=&quot;Picture of LCD screen with SD card&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Link to video demonstration:&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/Pd3OWGY-akU&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Video of the LCD screen&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update 8/22&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have decided to just throw out the Makerbot Hardware/software altogether. I am currently busy on getting it setup with Marlin. I am doing this because this will gave me many more options. Ordering a new lcd screen from Makerbot is really expensive (from that money you can buy almost all of the components that I will be using now). Also, I can update it with a heated bed and auto bed leveling sensor later. I am thinking about maybe creating an Instructable/Medium blog post or something, is anyone interested?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16308" LastEditorUserId="16308" LastEditDate="2019-08-28T20:57:10.833" LastActivityDate="2019-08-28T20:57:10.833" Title="Makerbot Replicator 2 LCD screen not turning on" Tags="|firmware|makerbot|makerbot-replicator2|lcd-screen|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10561" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10551" CreationDate="2019-07-12T02:10:57.777" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I already answered once more directly, but I think a better answer might be a frame challenge: design your model to avoid extremely long print times. Even if you didn't have all the problems of pausing and resuming to deal with, which include:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;warping and detachment from bed due to loss of bed heat&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;possible motion of stepper motors while unpowered&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;extrusion problems due to loss of material to oozing&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;...&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;you still have the fundamental risk that something goes wrong during the print, which increases significantly with the overall print duration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are lots of ways to design your model to be printed in multiple parts that don't amount to just &quot;cut it at height intervals and glue the result&quot;. Glue isn't a terribly good solution, at least not by itself; it's hard to ensure perfect alignment, and creates points with different thermal and mechanical properties that are likely to break. Other options include:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Snap fits, either reversible or permanent.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Peg/hole press fit.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Slide-in tension fit.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Threaded interfaces. These can easily be directly between your parts if the parts are rotationally symmetric or orientation doesn't matter. If it does matter, you can design the threads to stop at the right point but it's more work.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Threaded holes in one part, metal or 3D-printed bolts through the other to attach it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition to letting you print the object in steps rather than all at once to reduce the chance/cost of failure, these techniques also allow you to print different parts of the object in different orientations, taking advantage of the orientation for ease of printing without supports, or for obtaining stength in the directions your object will be subjected to stresses in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most (really all) of the above can also be made permanent with glue, if you desire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2019-07-12T02:10:57.777" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10564" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-07-12T18:10:02.160" Score="2" ViewCount="697" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is this small issue I've been trying to find a solution for quite some time now, and nothing I've tried seems to work. My machine is an FDM printer, i3 style, but I have customized so much of it there is little but a few screws left of the original.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As it looks like it might be a mechanical problem, I'll try to add as much information as I can think of now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The machine was originally a &lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/wiki/P3Steel&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;P3 Steel Pro&lt;/a&gt;, but I replaced a bunch of things:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Replaced pretty much all the electronics. Got a &amp;quot;premium&amp;quot; RAMPS and Arduino after I killed 1 RAMPS and a couple of Arduinos &lt;em&gt;somehow&lt;/em&gt;. Been running with the premium ones for about 4 years now without a hitch. I replaced the drivers that came with the printers with Trinamic drivers, to make the motion &lt;em&gt;silent&lt;/em&gt; and smoother.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I also replaced the linear bearing rods for the X and Y axis with some custom cut hardened steel linear rods (G6 tolerance) because the ones I previously had were slightly damaged due to a faulty bearing and I thought this might make print quality better.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Linear bearings I replaced at the same time I replaced the rods, and got some &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wychbearings.co.uk/KH08-PP-INA.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;KH0824PP&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Replaced the Z index's lead screws with TR8x2 and plum couplers, expecting this would improve the quality (and it did). At the same time, I installed a custom piece and bearing on top of the Z-axis to make it more rigid (which I have no clue if it worked or not to be honest).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Replaced all the GT2 belts with Gates Powergrip belts, also trying to improve the issue here. The idlers got replaced at the same time with Gates idlers.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Replaced the belt mechanism for the X-axis (the bed carriage) with one that was easier to tension and was more reliable than the original, which I got from &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1054909&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;toolson edition&lt;/a&gt;. Also replaced the bearing at this time, with an SKF608-2Z.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Replaced the extruder entirely around January, using a DD BMG-X2 with a e3d chimera+ hotend. The carriage it's mounted on I edited myself from the original carriage, so it would be able to mount this beast.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a bunch of pictures (sorry for the dirt, I'm experimenting with some soluble filaments that are being a bit of a mess):&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RrmwZ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RrmwZ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;printer&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FpJ0R.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FpJ0R.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;y axis tensioner&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vEUSb.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vEUSb.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;y axis iddler&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/COxoc.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/COxoc.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;x axis iddler and stepper&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/F6En1.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/F6En1.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;x axis&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/odBA3.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/odBA3.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;extruder carriage&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The issue I'm experiencing is that the horizontal lines on some models are very visible/irregular on complex models such as this one:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xT63D.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xT63D.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;horizontal lines&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While on models that are more simple like a simple cylinder these lines seem to be barely visible/far more regular:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IXgVv.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IXgVv.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I see this regardless of line height, though these pictures are at 0.12 mm. I've also seen plenty of pictures of other people's prints that don't seem to suffer from this (like &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/I6FOP.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this random google search result&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let me go through my line of thought/things I've tried:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I first thought this was down to bed adhesion, but I'm using a glue stick to make sure the print is unmovable and I have ruled that out as the source.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I also thought it may be the spools pulling the extruder upwards at some points, but I don't think that'd add up with the cylinder being more regular.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I tried 3 different &amp;quot;high quality&amp;quot; filament brands, with very low advertised tolerances (0.05-0.03 mm). All suffer from the same issue, and at the same height for the same model.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Then I thought it might be a problem with the retraction, so I lowered the retraction from 0.5 mm to 0.3 mm and enabled linear advance on Marlin (and tuned it as precisely as I could to a K value of 0.15 for this PLA). That also didn't seem to make the lines go away.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I also thought this might be down to my stepper motors being able to do 200 &amp;quot;natural&amp;quot; steps, and perhaps the microstepping was making the Z movement fall into &amp;quot;unnatural&amp;quot; positions that are badly rounded and causing this. But according to my math, at 0.12 mm layer height, the issue should go away and it didn't, so I think that rules that out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only other theories I currently have are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The same as the last one (200 steps not being &amp;quot;natural&amp;quot;) but this being an issue on the x/y axis, however, I would expect this to cause vertical lines rather than horizontal.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The extruder being incapable to keep up the pressure and consistently extrude, but I would have expected linear advance to fix this?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have no clue how to prove/disprove the last two, or if there are any other reasons I can't think of why this could be happening. I'd appreciate if someone more knowledgeable than me would give me some pointers as to how to debug/fix this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13030" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2022-04-17T05:35:35.170" LastActivityDate="2022-04-17T06:05:05.767" Title="Visible/irregular horizontal lines for complex models" Tags="|print-quality|fdm|p3steel|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10565" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10566" CreationDate="2019-07-12T22:32:49.220" Score="1" ViewCount="1853" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am trying to slice a model that is half a mm less than max width, but not successful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/puSzw.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/puSzw.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What am I missing? Is there some minimum value less than maximum allowed, or something?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strike&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit&lt;/strong&gt;: after changing the width to 220 in machine settings, slicing works.&lt;/strike&gt; This is a dangerous thing to do, as it &lt;em&gt;could&lt;/em&gt; damage the printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9201" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2019-07-13T08:19:06.013" LastActivityDate="2019-07-13T12:41:20.777" Title="Using maximum width when slicing in Ultimaker Cura" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|slicing|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10566" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10565" CreationDate="2019-07-12T23:02:44.043" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Take a look at this post: &lt;a href=&quot;https://community.ultimaker.com/topic/15588-cura-23-not-using-full-print-area/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://community.ultimaker.com/topic/15588-cura-23-not-using-full-print-area/&lt;/a&gt;. As the raft/skirt/brim will fall outside of the build volume, Cura is not able to slice it. Look at the the answer by @ahouben. He suggests that if you want to use the maximum build volume : &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;adhesion type = brim&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;brim line count = 0&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;travel avoid distance = 0&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;horizontal expansion = 0&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;support horizontal expansion = 0 (if support is enabled)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;draft shield disabled&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;ooze shield disabled&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;infill wipe distance = 0﻿&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Note that in most cases brim with brim line count=0 will get you most of the way there&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Try this and see if it makes a difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16308" LastActivityDate="2019-07-12T23:02:44.043" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10567" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10565" CreationDate="2019-07-13T06:06:22.683" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;/a/10566&quot;&gt;This answer&lt;/a&gt; already addresses that Ultimaker Cura &quot;eats up&quot; platform space for e.g. skirt, brim, raft, dual extruder, deposition of priming blob, prime towers, etc. Disabling those features will reclaim platform space so you can print larger prints. &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;However, that will only work when your printer is correctly configured!&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; E.g. the center of the bed needs to be the center of the center in the slicer which needs to have the specific sizes of the bed dimensions. Note that increasing the bed size past the actual dimensions is not considered to be a nice solution, it is an easy work-around that gives you extra space in X&lt;sup&gt;+&lt;/sup&gt; and Y&lt;sup&gt;+&lt;/sup&gt;, i.e. it does not center this newly created space, furthermore, this can destroy your printer is there is tight space left on those axes! Let's illustrate that with an example, if you have a 200x200&amp;nbsp;mm build plate and want to slice something of size 200x200&amp;nbsp;mm, this should be centered around (100, 100), if you change the bed size to 220x220&amp;nbsp;mm, Ultimaker Cura will center the print around (110, 110) which means that the print maximum coordinates are 210&amp;nbsp;mm; this is outside the bed area and potentially can destroy your printer!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What you should check is if the physical center of your bed actually is the center as defined by the firmware of the printer (surprisingly, many of the cheaper printer have this incorrectly configured). The answers on question &lt;a href=&quot;/q/6375&quot;&gt;&lt;em&gt;&quot;How to center my prints on the build platform?&quot;&lt;/em&gt; (Re-calibrate homing offset)&lt;/a&gt; describe how you could do that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-07-13T12:41:20.777" LastActivityDate="2019-07-13T12:41:20.777" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10570" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10508" CreationDate="2019-07-13T14:12:26.863" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have not given up yet!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And I figured it out, I think. I tried many things, dried the spool at 60C for an hour, Simplifiy3D's slicer, but eventually playing around I found a setting that resulting in no warping &lt;em&gt;during&lt;/em&gt; the print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Final solution:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;- Original Prusa Powder Coated sheet.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;- Changed the nozzle to 0.6 mm.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;- 20 mm/s print speed, slow.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;- 260 C nozzle temp, make it liquid to get best bed adhesion.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;- 90 C bed, this keeps it soft at the bottom. Do not change the temperature, as this will detach the print.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;- &lt;strong&gt;0.95 Extrusion Multiplier instead of 1.2&lt;/strong&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The extrusion multiplier did the trick. It kept pushing slightly too much stuff out, especially on the bottom layers causing ridges that is will pull on the next layer.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;It did still warp a bit, I found that this stuff shrinks about 2% when cooled, and when you start infill, it will pull itself loose. Hence the 90C bed temp.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wf6uo.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wf6uo.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;it&amp;#39;s a start&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It still prints poorly, but it did print without creating &quot;the blob&quot;!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16380" LastEditorUserId="16380" LastEditDate="2019-08-04T18:50:13.710" LastActivityDate="2019-08-04T18:50:13.710" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10571" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10572" CreationDate="2019-07-13T14:26:33.847" Score="1" ViewCount="24093" Body="&lt;p&gt;Standard Marlin has one problem: when the power suddenly is gone, the print is gone. Prusa and many china printers however come with &quot;Power Loss Recovery&quot; or &quot;Power Out Protection&quot; or similar. But especially China printers come without &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/8466/what-is-thermal-runaway-protection&quot;&gt;Thermal Runaway Protection&lt;/a&gt;, so in order to make the printer safe, one often has to get rid of TRP (in the basic shape it comes).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;How can the PLR be turned on?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastActivityDate="2019-07-13T15:02:15.387" Title="How to activate Power Loss Recovery in Marlin?" Tags="|marlin|firmware|knowledgebase|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10572" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10571" CreationDate="2019-07-13T14:45:21.060" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Marlin firmware has such a feature that can be enabled to resume printing after a power outage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To enable power-loss recovery you should send&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;M413 S1 &#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;to the printer using a console (e.g. using Pronterface, OctoPrint, Repetier-host, etc.) or put commands in a text file with extension &lt;code&gt;.g&lt;/code&gt; that can be printed from SD card. To disable power-loss recovery send/print:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;M413 S0 &#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To report the state of the power-loss recovery, send through a console:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;M413&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This will result in a returning message in the console of e.g. &lt;code&gt;This Power-loss recovery ON&lt;/code&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To retain the setting, you can use &lt;code&gt;M500&lt;/code&gt; to store it in memory.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you enable &lt;code&gt;M413&lt;/code&gt; in Marlin firmware, the printer will write a resume printing file to SD card e.g. every layer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From &lt;a href=&quot;http://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M413.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;M413 - Power-loss Recovery documentation&lt;/a&gt; I quote:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Enable or disable the Power-loss Recovery feature. When this feature is enabled, the state of the current print job (SD card only) will be saved to a file on the SD card. If the machine crashes or a power outage occurs, the firmware will present an option to Resume the interrupted print job. In Marlin 2.0 the &lt;code&gt;POWER_LOSS_RECOVERY&lt;/code&gt; option must be enabled.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This feature operates without a power-loss detection circuit by writing to the recovery file periodically (e.g., once per layer), or if a &lt;code&gt;POWER_LOSS_PIN&lt;/code&gt; is configured then it will write the recovery info only when a power-loss is detected. The latter option is preferred, since constant writing to the SD card can shorten its life, and the print will be resumed where it was interrupted rather than repeating the last layer. (Future implementations may allow use of the EEPROM or the on-board SD card.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This means if you cut the power you can resume the print layer, the only problem is that the part must remain attached to the plate, if it comes loose it is hard to resume printing. This feature is now commonly found on printers these days.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The regular pause and resume functionality of the printer will not work when the power is cut over night, i.e. no recovery file is written in such a case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:29:41.667" LastActivityDate="2019-07-13T15:02:15.387" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10573" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10574" CreationDate="2019-07-13T14:49:41.060" Score="14" ViewCount="22686" Body="&lt;p&gt;I read that G-code commands can be sent through a console/terminal over USB. What is a console/terminal and how do you use that?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-11-03T12:11:47.373" LastActivityDate="2022-01-11T14:18:56.710" Title="What is a printer console/terminal?" Tags="|g-code|software|knowledgebase|usb|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10574" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10573" CreationDate="2019-07-13T16:10:42.957" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are several programs that could serve as a console to connect to a printer, put let's start somewhere: the USB connection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Step 1: Connection with USB&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When connecting the printer via USB for the first time, we will get a notification that some unknown item is connected. If we use windows we can learn what device it decided we now have via the &lt;code&gt;device manager&lt;/code&gt; (&lt;code&gt;Windows Key&lt;/code&gt; then typing in &lt;code&gt;manager&lt;/code&gt; and &lt;code&gt;Enter&lt;/code&gt;). It should be a COM Port as this picture shows.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/e76LF.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/e76LF.png&quot; alt=&quot;Windows Device Manager&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this case, we have connected to &lt;strong&gt;&lt;code&gt;COM4&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;. To change the COM port, we can do so via a &lt;code&gt;Rightclick&lt;/code&gt;-&amp;gt;&lt;code&gt;properties&lt;/code&gt;, then the &lt;code&gt;connection settings&lt;/code&gt; and &lt;code&gt;advanced&lt;/code&gt;. In the new window, we can change the COM port number to anything from 1 to 256, but it is recommended to keep the number somewhat low.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Make sure you run the printer's power supply &lt;strong&gt;and&lt;/strong&gt; the connection via USB, as you can't use motor control commands if you have the power supply for the printer off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Step 2: Using the COM-port&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, we need a program that can use the COM port to connect to the printer. There are, as said, several out there. One such is &lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.repetier.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Repetier Host&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;, which comes with slicer and a good graphical interface. Another is &lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://ultimaker.com/software/ultimaker-cura&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Ultimaker Cura&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;, which has the same capacities but lacks logging of all the commands exchanged. Because many are familiar with it as a slicer, I will look at it first. As a third option, I will take a look at &lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.pronterface.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Pronterface&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;CAVEAT: Only &lt;strong&gt;one&lt;/strong&gt; program that actively uses the COM port can be properly run at the same time, as the first program accessing the port will claim all uses for the COM port till it is shut down - any program or even other instances of the same program trying to access the port after that will have no control of the port.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Ultimaker Cura&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After launching Ultimaker Cura, choose your printer. many printers are available as presets by now, so just import the printer you use or make a custom profile. At the moment the latest version of Cura is 4.1.0, and will look like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/q9L10.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/q9L10.png&quot; alt=&quot;Cura GUI: Top toolbar&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After switching to &lt;code&gt;Monitor&lt;/code&gt;, it will automatically connect to the Printer via the COM port, in my case 4.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/f7wtl.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/f7wtl.png&quot; alt=&quot;Cura GUI: Monitor Interface&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once more we test the connection via Home &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/h2eaI.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/h2eaI.png&quot; alt=&quot;Home Cura&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt; and then use the Send G-Code prompt, confirming lines via &lt;code&gt;Enter&lt;/code&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gKgaI.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gKgaI.png&quot; alt=&quot;Cura GUI: G-code Prompt&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Repetier Host&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After running Repetier Host the first time, you need to configure your printer. &lt;code&gt;Ctrl&lt;/code&gt;+&lt;code&gt;P&lt;/code&gt; opens the config window for the printer. We need to know the Baud Rate of our printer, so I looked up the documentation of my Ender3, which told me 115200 is the right setting. Most printers seem to run on this setting. The other tabs decide the speeds, extruder number and limits and the bed shape. The rest isn't needed for this. My settings for the Ender3 are these:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ONkso.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ONkso.png&quot; alt=&quot;Repetier GUI: Connection Tab&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/l7srk.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/l7srk.png&quot; alt=&quot;Repetier GUI: Printer Tab&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CT8kE.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CT8kE.png&quot; alt=&quot;Repetier GUI: Extruder Tab&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/e9ATK.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/e9ATK.png&quot; alt=&quot;Repetier GUI: Printer Shape Tab&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ok, we made our settings and saved via &lt;code&gt;OK&lt;/code&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, we press the Connect button on the left side of the menu:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VOyRF.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VOyRF.png&quot; alt=&quot;Repetier GUI: Disconnected left side menu&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It should change to the blue Disconnect button and display other parts of the print now, showing that we have connected. Note that at the bottom of the screen a log is filled with all the commands and exchanges.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3jkbn.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3jkbn.png&quot; alt=&quot;Repetier Host GUI: Connected left side menu&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EFNtD.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EFNtD.png&quot; alt=&quot;Repetier Host Log snipped - very detailed&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the right side, we now can choose the Tab &lt;code&gt;Manual Control&lt;/code&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zqhoY.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zqhoY.png&quot; alt=&quot;Repetier Host: Right side of Interface&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Before sending any commands, it is a good idea to press the Home &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yXA1h.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yXA1h.png&quot; alt=&quot;Home&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt; button. This also serves as an extra test to see if the printer is connected correctly. Now we can use the Prompt G-Code to send our commands. The commands will be put into the log below.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uwa5V.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uwa5V.png&quot; alt=&quot;send G-Code line&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iZr7R.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iZr7R.png&quot; alt=&quot;Repetier Log&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Pronterface&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the first time that I used &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.pronterface.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Pronterface&lt;/a&gt;. The first thing to do after downloading the Printrun package and running the Pronterface application is to press &lt;code&gt;Port&lt;/code&gt;, then set the right Baudrate (115200 seems to work for many machines) and press &lt;code&gt;connect&lt;/code&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8qefc.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8qefc.png&quot; alt=&quot;Pronterface GUI extract: connect button&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The GUI will saturate and the right log will show lots of things tested in connection. Note that in the lower right of the GUI, there is a temperature curve log, which can be very handy for troubleshooting, as it shows the change over a little time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GhATh.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GhATh.png&quot; alt=&quot;Pronterface GUI extract: after connecting&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qxxUI.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qxxUI.png&quot; alt=&quot;Pronterace Log&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Below the log, we find the input for commands, and if we send a command, we get a log entry of it:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LMwp9.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LMwp9.png&quot; alt=&quot;Pronterface Lower Right Command Prompt&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2022-01-11T14:18:56.710" LastActivityDate="2022-01-11T14:18:56.710" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10575" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-07-13T16:53:17.173" Score="3" ViewCount="1831" Body="&lt;p&gt;Recently I had this problem where I needed to change filament from PLA to PET-G or similar. And... filament jam. After playing around with different settings and speeds and still getting the same results I had to clean everything. And again during a print, it jammed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I brought a new nozzle, heating cartage, Teflon (PTFE) tube and some additional components(fans, new wires and so on) but still was the same. Now I'm waiting for a new set of hotend Mk8&lt;sup&gt;Design Needed&lt;/sup&gt; kit. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A week after the order and still waiting, I played with retraction a little. By default, it was set to 0.8&amp;nbsp;mm on Sli3er but I had set it to 4-6&amp;nbsp;mm because it gives the best results and no stringing. I changed it again to 1.5-2&amp;nbsp;mm and... no more jamming at the cost of getting stringing. I'm using PLA which I never had experienced strings before.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, in summary, the problem occurs due my retraction setting. Either I have to live with strings and no jam problems or no strings but jamming problems during printing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Have someone had same problem as me? How did you fixed it? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Printer AlfaWise U30(bowden type) but it's no longer the same. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Motherboard: MKS 1.4 Gen A4988 + DRV8825 Stepper drivers(no problems here)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;PID(Autotune), Calibrations and so on done correctly.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Firmware latest marlin 1.1.9 (Tried bugfix but the same)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sofware for slicing PE Sli3er (Tried Ultimaker Cura with same model and same problem)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17028" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-07-13T17:49:56.833" LastActivityDate="2019-07-13T21:33:31.050" Title="Retraction Jamming Problem!" Tags="|pla|diy-3d-printer|extrusion|petg|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10579" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10575" CreationDate="2019-07-13T21:33:31.050" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had problems with jamming PETG due to retraction.  My model had many retraction moves, such that the amount of filament used during a printing move was less than the retraction distance.  I found that several trips through the feed gear flattened the filament, which caused two problems.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The flattened (or ovaled) filament had trouble fitting through the round holes and tubes, and&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Since it was thinner, the filament was not gripped as tightly so there was less force pushing it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I reduced my feed gear pressure and the problem stopped.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PETG is not as stiff as PLA.  The multiple trips through mangle flattened it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2082" LastActivityDate="2019-07-13T21:33:31.050" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10580" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-07-13T22:50:54.620" Score="1" ViewCount="1291" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a cheaper consumer-grade printer that I've owned for a couple of years now. It is an XYZ da Vinci Mini W and it seems to recuperate its incurred losses from selling a cheaper printer by jacking up the prices on their filaments. I don't have much of a problem with this (and I'm not asking to &quot;hack&quot; the chips to let me use cheaper filaments), but I went to switch out my filament with a full one I had laying around and I noticed the chip case it contained was a chip (probably removed by somebody for some odd reason). I used a chip that I had laying around, but the printer read the full spool of filament as &quot;empty&quot; because of the old chip. Because of this, I was wondering if there was a way to force the printer to keep printing when the spool is &quot;empty&quot; or if I can somehow reset the chip.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17033" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-08-14T20:52:02.803" LastActivityDate="2019-08-14T20:52:02.803" Title="Using a Full Spool of Filament, Read as &quot;Empty&quot;" Tags="|filament|xyz-da-vinci-mini-w|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10581" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10580" CreationDate="2019-07-14T01:45:28.513" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;From what is read online, it depends on the firmware version your printer has. It seems that later versions keep track of tag serials and reports tampered tags as non-genuine tags. The best and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.soliforum.com/topic/17124/android-app-for-resettingwriting-blank-ntags/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;most recent reference found&lt;/a&gt; is from 2018 which describes you should be creating new tags instead of resetting existing tags. This involves installing an Android App from unverified source and new &quot;paper&quot; NFC213 tags.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2019-07-14T01:45:28.513" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10582" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10573" CreationDate="2019-07-14T02:09:09.880" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;In addition to &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/10574/5740&quot;&gt;this answer&lt;/a&gt;, the OctoPrint 3D print server software contains a terminal which you can use to send G-code commands from a browser:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;OctoPrint&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the bottom string input box (under the check mark items) you put in a G-code command, which will be send to the printer when you hit the &lt;em&gt;Send&lt;/em&gt; button. If the printer gives a reply to that command, it will be displayed in the log window above the check mark interface items.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8X5EO.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;OctoPrint terminal interface&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8X5EO.png&quot; alt=&quot;OctoPrint terminal interface&quot; title=&quot;OctoPrint terminal interface&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2019-07-14T02:09:09.880" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10583" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13891" CreationDate="2019-07-14T02:53:25.627" Score="3" ViewCount="19236" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been trying a lot of different things to combat corners curling upward in the first few tens of layers after the bottom skin. To be clear, I'm not talking about corners of the first layer printed on the bed, but rather the points of the outline in layers above the base where direction of print motion changes discontinuously (discrete corner) or abruptly (turn with very tight curvature). Here's an image I found (not mine) that demonstrates:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-hxUDhy07rC8/T8k0-UdTcqI/AAAAAAAAAdk/bfGQ9W-4N40/s1600/IMG_9471.JPG&quot; alt=&quot;print with curled corners next to one without&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And a pic during print of the type of curling I'm talking about:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WJHAs.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;curling corners during printing&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And some previous worse prints:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6w6kC.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;2 dodecahedra with very warped edges, one with minor distortion to one edge, shown bottom-up&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My go-to worst test case for this now is a 20mm tall hollow dodecahedron with 0.8mm shell (hollow geometry, not just empty infill; 0% infill on a non-hollow model does even worse, shown above). For everything else I've tried, I've mostly been able to sovle the problem with combinations of&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Improved cooling fan duct&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lowered bed temperature or unheated bed (but this is a tradeoff; it seriously hurts first layer quality and increases risk of non-adhesion)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Disabling Cura's overhang detection mode (non-uniform print speed causes a &lt;strong&gt;huge&lt;/strong&gt; increase in the curling due to latency of extrusion rate response)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Increasing motion acceleration limits or decreasing speed limits (also mitigating the latency in extrusion rate response)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;but I can't get all 5 edges of the worst-case dodecahedron completely warping-free without just heavily slowing down the print; during print it's obvious that the curling at the corners in each layer is the source of the warping. Increasing Cura's &lt;code&gt;cool_min_layer_time&lt;/code&gt; to 10 seconds (default is 6, and I usually get by fine with 3-4.5 for most things) mostly but not entirely solved it, and going much slower than that seems likely to introduce other surface artifacts from extremely slow extrusion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any additional tricks I'm missing for solving this? I'd like something that's easy to leave on all the time or at least to automate, as opposed to hacks like adding in a junk tower off to the side to waste time between layers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My printer is an Ender 3 with stock gear except for improved fan duct. The problem was worse with the stock fan duct.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastEditorUserId="11157" LastEditDate="2019-07-31T15:51:15.180" LastActivityDate="2020-06-15T22:08:11.943" Title="How do you solve PLA corner-curling short of printing really, REALLY slow?" Tags="|print-quality|pla|warping|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10584" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10546" CreationDate="2019-07-14T03:38:15.500" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Piecing this answer together from the comments on OP's post.&#xA;Myself and R.. noted that a layer height of 0.35&amp;nbsp;mm, nozzle width of 1.2&amp;nbsp;mm, and a fairly high feedrate (200&amp;nbsp;% according to OP, no reference to what 100&amp;nbsp;% is), is an exceptionally large amount of plastic to try and melt through almost any hotend on the market except possibly the Volcano, or the high-throughput version of the Mosquito. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;OP responded that lowering the layer height to 0.2&amp;nbsp;mm seemed to fix the issue. That's still an impressive amount of plastic, but it's a 43&amp;nbsp;% decrease in total flow compared to 0.35&amp;nbsp;mm layer height. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16621" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-07-14T18:18:22.917" LastActivityDate="2019-07-14T18:18:22.917" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10585" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10592" CreationDate="2019-07-14T04:20:17.843" Score="2" ViewCount="786" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I am really fed up with inductive probes. The one I am using keeps getting shifted slightly every time I switch nozzles or run an oozy print. That means I have to autolevel again, then manually set a Z-offset (as I would have anyway if I didn't have an inductive probe).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On my Lulzbot Mini there is a different scenario. There are four washers at each part of the bed. The nozzle is &quot;grounded&quot; so that when the Mini touches the washers, a current is created that seems to act as the Z-stop. Surprisingly there isn't much out there for a DIY implementation of this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since I have an aluminum bed (and aluminum is conductive), I am thinking of doing the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) Put one wire from the Z-stop ground pin to the aluminum bed. Make sure it is away from the wires for the heater / thermister (?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) Put one wire from the Z-stop 5V into the heating block of my nozzle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the nozzle probes the bed, a current will be created from the 5V heating block, through the conductive nozzle, into the conductive bed, to the Z-stop ground.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm always unsure when it comes to circuitry. Will there be any dangerous interference from this technique from, say, the bed heating circuit? I'm not sure what kind of protection circuitry are on each of the Arduino's pins, and I'd rather not fry my board if this sounds like a bad idea to someone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I figure most people don't do this because they have sheets of PEI or some other non-conductive material on their bed. I can use PET tape but still leave holes in the tape for this autobed leveling probe. It would be really great if it worked and wasn't dangerous. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I shouldn't even need the third pin?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10369" LastActivityDate="2019-09-12T02:35:30.313" Title="Wiring Z-stop directly to hot end and aluminum bed / spacers" Tags="|z-probe|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10586" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10585" CreationDate="2019-07-14T08:56:23.730" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Aluminium is conductive, but aluminium oxide is not, which is just so what there (unavoidably, since aluminium rapidly oxidises in air) happens to be a thin layer of on top of your bed. The coating is very thin, but it might foul your plans. It would work better with a sharp probe (that can puncture the layer) than with a 3D printer nozzle. You should be careful, because your probing method might be unreliable (which could cause the nozzle to crash into the bed).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wiring the endstop 5V directly to ground will create a short circuit which will damage your printer. You should use the third (signal) pin and ground instead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastEditorUserId="26" LastEditDate="2019-07-14T11:54:19.450" LastActivityDate="2019-07-14T11:54:19.450" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10587" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10588" CreationDate="2019-07-14T11:06:39.267" Score="8" ViewCount="3930" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a model that contains a cavity, into which I want to insert a piece of metal, so I can use a magnet to stick to the print. How can I introduce a pause into the G-code without manipulating it manually in Ultimaker Cura?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-07-14T12:52:26.663" LastActivityDate="2019-11-26T13:05:52.693" Title="How to pause a print to insert something in a cavity using Ultimaker Cura?" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|g-code|knowledgebase|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10588" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10587" CreationDate="2019-07-14T11:06:39.267" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ultimaker Cura contains &quot;Extensions&quot;; in version 4.1.0, the process is as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Extensions -&gt; Post Processing -&gt; Modify G-code&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Add a Script -&gt; Pause at height&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Choose the one that matches your firmware!&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Choose the &lt;code&gt;Pause height&lt;/code&gt; to match the height the insertion should take place. Usually, this is to be the layer just before the roof is to be printed to keep the inserted objects from protruding from their cavities.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Choose a park position well outside of the print. X 10 Y 10 is usually a good position for this.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Add a little retraction if you want.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In printing, you have to wait till the cavity is formed, insert the item quickly and press the control button to resume. The shorter the pause, the better the next layer will hold to the already printed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, keep in mind to make the cavity a little larger than the insert, both in XY and Z, to compensate for the plastic shrinking a little and to allow the nozzle to pass well over the inserted item.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2019-07-14T13:08:52.480" LastActivityDate="2019-07-14T13:08:52.480" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10589" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10550" CreationDate="2019-07-14T14:24:31.353" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I cleaned the bed with acetone and it seems to have helped, so presumably it was just a build-up of something.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9201" LastActivityDate="2019-07-14T14:24:31.353" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10590" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-07-14T18:32:07.657" Score="1" ViewCount="73" Body="&lt;p&gt;Recently the connection between the heated bed and my board blew out. I was able to solder a new connector onto the board and it worked for a day, but now it seems the SMT pad has come off the board bottom.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another option I have seen to have the heated bed is to put it directly into the 12V power supply. But when I do this the bed gets very hot almost as soon as I turn it on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would like to be able to have the bed not get hot as soon as I turn the printer on. Ideally, it could be directly put in to the power supply if:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I could find a mechanical switch capable of handling that much current&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Or, I could use a TIP31 transistor and a servos pin to control the bed.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know if I add resistance to the wire then all the heat will just end up in that part of the connection (right?). So I'm wondering if it's even possible to use something like a switch or a transistor. Will all the bed heat just go into the transistor or mechanical switch that's soldered on? Should I be using some kind of high temperature solder for this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am &lt;strong&gt;not&lt;/strong&gt; trying to &quot;control&quot; the heated bed so much as just &quot;Activate&quot; it. It is annoying to have the heat blasting up from the bed when I want to do a simple thing like just move the motors. But it is convenient to have the bed remain hot when I do something else like disconnect a USB or move into upper layers of a print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems like the TIP31 transistor (&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.hobbytronics.co.uk/datasheets/TIP31.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.hobbytronics.co.uk/datasheets/TIP31.pdf&lt;/a&gt;) can only handle up to 5A of current? or maybe 1A? In that case, it wouldn't work without adding a resistor, which would make the heated bed itself nonfunctional? It seems like the heated bed currently has a resistance of 0.7 Ohms. What is the ampere limit for the power supplies that most 3D printers use? (The silver box used by the Lulzbot Mini as well).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And then do I need to wire the GND of the servos pin to the heated bed pin as well? Won't that send heat to the board?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10369" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2020-01-13T15:25:20.557" LastActivityDate="2020-01-13T15:25:20.557" Title="Activating heated bed through a switch, or D-pin and TIP31 transistor" Tags="|heated-bed|wiring|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10592" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10585" CreationDate="2019-07-14T22:36:25.930" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Edit: i recommend using some conductive felt&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The top of the aluminum bed is not conductive, but the sides of it are. You can re-create the Lulzbot Mini endstop set-up by connecting the Z-stop ground to the side of the aluminum bed, then using binder clips and nickels as the &amp;quot;washers&amp;quot;. In my case I had to use quarters because my bed was really big and the extruder came down far from its edges.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To do this, you'll need:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A multimeter and a &amp;gt;100 Ohm resistor for safety&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Some nickels (or any conductive coin)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Some binder clips (with steel insides)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Some aluminum foil (increases reliability of setup)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A Z end-stop&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Building conductive washer perimeter&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Create a conductive washer system along the sides of your aluminum bed by:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Wrapping a nickel-sized amount of aluminum foil on the bottom, side, and top of the bed&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Placing a nickel on top of that aluminum foil on the bedttop&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Placing a steel-inside binder clip to hold down the nickel&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do this multiple times along the perimeter of the bed. It seems you are limited to an evenly-spaced grid structure by the software. In my case I placed the washers at:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;X = 0, Y = 0&#xA;X = 0.5 * Max_X, Y=0&#xA;X = Max_X, Y = 0&#xA;X = 0, Y = Max_Y&#xA;X = 0.5*Max_X, Y = 0.5 * Max_Y&#xA;X = Max_X, Y = Max_X&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The aluminum foil provides a contact between the side of the bed and the top and bottom of it. The binder clip can be pressed inwards against the aluminum foil to ensure high reliability. However, the binder clip can get loose. So, using aluminum foil helps make the bottom of the bed conductive too, increasing the surface area of the contact for the binder clip.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Attaching red wire to hot end&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Attach the red part of the Z-endstop to your heatblock. It must be in the heatblock somewhere. The thermister hole might work. For me, I was able to slide it in a small space that's used to tighten the screw that holds the heat rod.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now we want to attach the Z-stop ground (black wire) to the conductive perimeter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Before attaching Z-stop ground underneath one of the binder clips, a word of caution...&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first time I did this, I stupidly placed a binder clip on top of the 12V heat rod attached to the bottom of the aluminum bed. This put all sides of the aluminum bed (and my conductive washers) at 12V, which created a short into the Z-stop ground pin when I connected it. This resulted in my Z-stop ground pin SMOKING up from the heat going through it. As a word of precaution, you should attach a resistor between the Z-stop ground pin and the side of the aluminum bed should something go wrong in the future. I used a 2.1 kOhm resistor I had laying around. This will limit the current going into the Z-stop ground pin. Since everyone's aluminum bed will be different (for e.g. the bottom of my bed is non-conductive, but yours might be conductive), it is really important to be careful here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Before powering on, test to see that all of the nickels have low resistance between them. Test to see that the hot end nozzle is connected to the Z-stop red wire.  Use a multimeter for this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't have a resistor, wait to attach the Z-stop ground before powering on. This will let you check the voltage to tell if your aluinum bed sides are connected to the 12V heat rod. After that, you can power off and attach the Z-stop ground and power on again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Setting up the software&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you've flashed your firmware before, setting up the software is easy. Go to the  &amp;quot;AUTO_BED&amp;quot; section of Configuration.h. First thing to do is to set your Z-offset to about 2.0mm and remove any existing offsets you might've had for a Z-probe (for e.g. X_PROBE_OFFSET... = -40 was set for me). The Z-offset should be set to a positive value this time. &lt;strong&gt;Don't forget to change this setting in EEPROM if you set itas well!&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since I'm only probing the perimeter, I use BILINEAR bed leveling for this one. Bilinear calculates points automatically for me, so I had to set up my perimeter according to an evenly spaced grid like I listed in &amp;quot;Building conductive washer perimeter&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First I activated AUTO_BED_LEVELING_BILINEAR&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And my IF tree looks like:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#if ENABLED(AUTO_BED_LEVELING_LINEAR) || ENABLED(AUTO_BED_LEVELING_BILINEAR)&#xA;&#xA;  // Set the number of grid points per dimension.&#xA;  #define GRID_MAX_POINTS_X 3&#xA;  #define GRID_MAX_POINTS_Y 2&#xA;&#xA;  // Set the boundaries for probing (where the probe can reach).&#xA;  #define LEFT_PROBE_BED_POSITION 1&#xA;  #define RIGHT_PROBE_BED_POSITION 264&#xA;  #define FRONT_PROBE_BED_POSITION 1&#xA;  #define BACK_PROBE_BED_POSITION 264&#xA;&#xA;  // The Z probe minimum outer margin (to validate G29 parameters).&#xA;  #define MIN_PROBE_EDGE 0&#xA;&#xA;  // Probe along the Y axis, advancing X after each column&#xA;  //#define PROBE_Y_FIRST&#xA;&#xA;  #if ENABLED(AUTO_BED_LEVELING_BILINEAR)&#xA;&#xA;    // Beyond the probed grid, continue the implied tilt?&#xA;    // Default is to maintain the height of the nearest edge.&#xA; &#xA;    #define EXTRAPOLATE_BEYOND_GRID&#xA;    //&#xA;    // Experimental Subdivision of the grid by Catmull-Rom method.&#xA;    // Synthesizes intermediate points to produce a more detailed mesh.&#xA;    //&#xA;    #define ABL_BILINEAR_SUBDIVISION&#xA;    #if ENABLED(ABL_BILINEAR_SUBDIVISION)&#xA;      // Number of subdivisions between probe points&#xA;      #define BILINEAR_SUBDIVISIONS 3&#xA;    #endif&#xA;&#xA;  #endif&#xA;#elif // other bed leveling trees&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Feel free to disable EXTRAPOLATE_BEYOND_GRID and BILINEAR_SUBDIVISIONS because they might not be necessary for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Time to autobed level&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, even with all that work, you're still going to want to be able to power off your 3D printer if it doesn't recognize even one of the nickels. So stay close to your power source and be sure to power it off safely if it doesn't recognize one of your contacts or if something comes loose. For example one of my coins was very dirty and yea, it made a huge difference in that corner, so I had to swap it out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Last but not least&lt;/strong&gt;, if you have some extra binder clips, you can enable the &amp;quot;Nozzle cleaning&amp;quot; feature in Configuration.h, just by binder-clipping the dark-green layer of a sponge to the board. Then just set the X-Y coordinates of that layer in the nozzle_clean feature in Configuration.h and make your life a lot easier.  These two features working well together basically mean you don't have to do anything between multiple prints except remove the prints from the bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10369" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:29:41.667" LastActivityDate="2019-09-12T02:35:30.313" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10593" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10598" CreationDate="2019-07-15T03:37:23.467" Score="2" ViewCount="328" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm new to OpenSCAD, but I can only get default parameters working for simple values.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm wondering if there is any way to achieve the following, where I have some parameters available to the module caller but by default they are derived from other parameters. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had expected this to work - I thought the compiler to be able to resolve these variables in-scope during compilation since everything here is deterministic - so perhaps I'm just missing some syntax? If not, is there some better way to achieve this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;module clasp(length=20, &#xA;             pin_radius=5,&#xA;             mouth = pin_radius * 0.9,&#xA;             inner_radius = pin_radius + 0.25,&#xA;             outer_radius = inner_radius * 1.4,&#xA;             ) {&#xA;  ... do the work ...&#xA;}&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately this approach leaves mount/inner/outer all &lt;code&gt;undef&lt;/code&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16835" LastActivityDate="2019-07-15T05:27:04.090" Title="Handing OpenSCAD module parameters derived from other variables" Tags="|openscad|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10594" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10604" CreationDate="2019-07-15T03:56:21.063" Score="3" ViewCount="1546" Body="&lt;p&gt;While printing PET-G (@ 220&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C nozzle and over 58&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C bed temperature), the outlines always print fine but the infill keeps shoveling. Could I be printing too hot or too cold? I am using a 0.8 mm nozzle. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Shoveling is when the plastic is over extruding to the point at which it starts piling up in the path of the nozzle, usually resulting in an uneven surface. Visually, it manifests like a snow plow shoveling snow. I tried adding an image, but, the filament is black so that turned out to be a difficult task.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This reason why this is a problem is because the nozzle hits those peaks while printing, which seems to be causing the print to detach from the bed. I've also noticed the print curling up at the edges, but I think that's a separate problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am printing at 3000&amp;nbsp;mm/min. The outline, and the infill is 80&amp;nbsp;% of that. The layer height is 0.6&amp;nbsp;mm&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12857" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2019-07-25T10:22:36.407" LastActivityDate="2019-07-25T10:22:36.407" Title="Infill keeps &quot;shoveling&quot;, but perimeters are fine" Tags="|print-quality|infill|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10595" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10619" CreationDate="2019-07-15T04:27:54.393" Score="1" ViewCount="420" Body="&lt;p&gt;Goal : create a pair of bevel gears for 90 degrees angle axles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Context : the gears are designed with an OpenSCAD library (&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1604369&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1604369&lt;/a&gt;, function 'pfeilkegelradpaar'), then I try to modify them using TinkerCAD.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem : When printing the STL exported from OpenSCAD, everything seems fine. But when I import the STL in TinkerCAD, there is a separation where the angle changes, and I cannot seem to find a configuration that works.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cKsOx.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cKsOx.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, when previewing with Cura (tried with the older v14 as well as the latest v4), I get the same behavior : the exported STL creates a solid object, while the STL from TinkerCAD (even if not modified, just imported and exported) has a 'gap' of about 8 layers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/S5ioP.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/S5ioP.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And, of course, everything fails afterwards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any help is appreciated. Thanks in advance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14338" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2019-07-16T17:29:41.583" LastActivityDate="2019-07-16T17:29:41.583" Title="Bevel gears 3D model" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|3d-design|slicing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10596" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10599" CreationDate="2019-07-15T05:07:36.373" Score="6" ViewCount="1140" Body="&lt;p&gt;How should I describe this part which looks like a threaded flange so that I can research replacements? It is the gold piece in the middle of each photo. It is used to create a bed raiser in the FLSUN Cube 3D printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iNRcM.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iNRcM.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UGmZd.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UGmZd.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lUqe9.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lUqe9.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It gets attached to a motor using a flexible bearing&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10369" LastActivityDate="2019-07-15T12:38:40.957" Title="What is this called? A tube flange bearing threaded for threaded pushrod" Tags="|replacement-parts|part-identification|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10597" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10596" CreationDate="2019-07-15T05:19:58.900" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;To the best of my knowledge, it's just called a &lt;strong&gt;lead screw nut&lt;/strong&gt; or &lt;strong&gt;lead nut&lt;/strong&gt;. The flange and holes for attaching it to a surface are inherent in its role in letting the lead screw move something.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2019-07-15T05:19:58.900" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10598" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10593" CreationDate="2019-07-15T05:27:04.090" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This seems to be a limitation of the language. One workaround that's only moderately ugly is, in the body of the module:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;mouth = is_undef(mouth) ? pin_radius * 0.9 : mouth;&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;etc. If you'll only be using the file via a &lt;code&gt;use&lt;/code&gt; directive in other files, another approach is file-scope variables. These can be overridden when the module is called, just like module parameters, and they do not provide or take values for/from the calling file's file-scope variable namespace.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2019-07-15T05:27:04.090" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10599" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10596" CreationDate="2019-07-15T08:33:58.250" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;/a/10597/&quot;&gt;This answer&lt;/a&gt; already describes the name of the &quot;golden&quot; component you are after, this answer expands upon that answer to note that there are various nuts with different thread sizes that look virtually the same, it would be a pity to order the incorrect one.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that this trapezoidal lead screw nut is made from brass (e.i. in your image, but these nuts are also available in POM/Delrin) and needs to have exactly the same screw threads as your lead screw has. A much used lead screw is using the following designation &lt;code&gt;Tr8x8(p2)&lt;/code&gt; ( for a full description of what that means look into &lt;a href=&quot;/a/5668/&quot;&gt;this answer (Anet A8 lead screw threads)&lt;/a&gt;). Do note that there are many lead screw nut sizes, buying the wrong one will not fit the current lead screw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TBUwh.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Example of various lead size lead screw nuts&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TBUwh.png&quot; alt=&quot;Example of various lead size lead screw nuts&quot; title=&quot;Example of various lead size lead screw nuts&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the image you supplied it looks as if that is the same lead screw as used in the linked answer of the Anet A8 lead screw. To verify this, you could measure how much the nut advances on a full rotation of the nut, if it is 8&amp;nbsp;mm, buy the &lt;code&gt;Tr8x8(p2)&lt;/code&gt; if e.g. 4&amp;nbsp;mm, buy the &lt;code&gt;Tr8x4(p2)&lt;/code&gt;. Note that if you are going to buy a new nut, you could opt for a nut that has no backlash, &lt;strong&gt;BUT&lt;/strong&gt;, be sure that it would fit the acrylic hole and you have enough space as its height is larger, or be prepared to modify the acrylic part or reconstruct a new one (it wouldn't be a bad idea to do that anyways, acrylic is known for cracking under applying force such as screws and nuts). Note that an anti backlash nut must be used as depicted below.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fgEd9.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;image of an anti backlash lead screw nut&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fgEd9.png&quot; alt=&quot;image of an anti backlash lead screw nut&quot; title=&quot;image of an anti backlash lead screw nut&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-07-15T12:38:40.957" LastActivityDate="2019-07-15T12:38:40.957" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10600" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8171" CreationDate="2019-07-15T08:42:34.500" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The OP was not able to reproduce the problem as can be taken from an edit to his question:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Changed absolutely nothing, tried again and problem solved!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;To honor the Q/A approach used on SE sites, this comment has been converted to a community answer, that once voted for will not make this question pop up once in a while.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2019-07-15T08:42:34.500" CommentCount="1" CommunityOwnedDate="2019-07-15T08:42:34.500" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10601" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10602" CreationDate="2019-07-15T09:06:13.603" Score="1" ViewCount="634" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to make a 24&amp;nbsp;V (3D printer board and shield) setup, as opposed to the usual 12&amp;nbsp;V, and to do so I had been considering using the Taurino Power board, or the clone Eruduino. However, I just found this board:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FoUYh.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Re-ARM microcontroller, with SD card slot&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FoUYh.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Re-ARM microcontroller, with SD card slot&quot; title=&quot;Re-ARM microcontroller, with SD card slot&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The specifications state a DC input of up to 36&amp;nbsp;V:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UX1QF.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Specifications&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UX1QF.png&quot; alt=&quot;Specifications&quot; title=&quot;Specifications&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know whether that &lt;em&gt;really&lt;/em&gt; means it can handle 24&amp;nbsp;V in the same manner as the Taurino/Eruduino? If so, then that looks like a double win: not only 24&amp;nbsp;V support, but also a faster processor. Anyone have experience with this board?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was thinking of using with a RAMPS1.6 Plus (maybe), or just a regular RAMPS 1.4 (&lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/wiki/RAMPS_24v&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;hacked to support 24&amp;nbsp;V&lt;/a&gt;). I'm just shopping about, and I thought that if I was going to spend £14 on an Eruduino, then I just as well spend that money on something better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It does work with Marlin apparently, as some of the customer reviews would suggest, but none of the reviews that I could find referred to a 24&amp;nbsp;V setup (heated bed etc.), hence my question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4762" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-07-15T11:28:48.250" LastActivityDate="2019-07-15T18:45:24.527" Title="Is this re-Arm controller actually 24 V capable?" Tags="|printer-building|power-supply|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10602" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10601" CreationDate="2019-07-15T09:28:32.687" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Given that the capacitor near the input is quite clearly marked 35&amp;nbsp;V, a 36&amp;nbsp;V rating seems questionable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The (buck) regulator used on the (genuine version of the) board is the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.aosmd.com/res/data_sheets/AOZ1282CI.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;AOZ1282CI&lt;/a&gt; which supports up to 36&amp;nbsp;V input. This is probably where they got the 36&amp;nbsp;V rating from, but obviously the 35&amp;nbsp;V-rated capacitors drop the input voltage down below this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/mediawiki/images/f/fa/Re_ARM_Schematic.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Schematics for the board are available on the RepRap wiki&lt;/a&gt; and show that the input voltage only feeds into the regulator. I see no reason why this board couldn't handle 24&amp;nbsp;V input, as this is well within the rating of both the regulator and the capacitors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastActivityDate="2019-07-15T09:28:32.687" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10603" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10601" CreationDate="2019-07-15T11:10:27.653" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;For completion, I've just seen this, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/comments/9wfrmk/can_a_ramps_16_support_24v/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Can a ramps 1.6 support 24v?&lt;/a&gt; (which basically confirms the 24&amp;nbsp;V support of the Re-ARM board) although it isn't particularly useful w.r.t. the RAMPS 1.6 side of things, although I would imagine the the &lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/wiki/RAMPS_24v&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;24&amp;nbsp;V RAMPS hack&lt;/a&gt; would still apply.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition, Alex Kenis does a great review, and he has successfully tried it with 24&amp;nbsp;V, watch &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P-wekOqM5gY&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;32-bit series part 4: Re-ARM board &quot;review?&quot;&lt;/a&gt;. Whilst the RE-ARm offers a lot of advantages, some of the main down points to be aware of are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;No 5&amp;nbsp;V &lt;em&gt;analogue inputs&lt;/em&gt;, they are 3.3&amp;nbsp;V, so the endstops use 3V3 logic (not a problem from mechanical switches, but 5&amp;nbsp;V optical endstops will have a problem&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Some of the pins of the Mega are missing from the Re-ARM.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4762" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2019-07-15T18:45:24.527" LastActivityDate="2019-07-15T18:45:24.527" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10604" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10594" CreationDate="2019-07-15T14:55:52.427" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Normally, what you're calling shoveling is caused by having the bed too high - when you deposit enough material for a space that should be the nominal layer height high, but significantly less volume is available, it has nowhere to go but up around the edges of the nozzle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, in your case your temperatures are also seriously wrong for PETG. The normal recommended range of nozzle temperature for PETG is 230-250&amp;nbsp;°C, and in my experience, you need the full 250&amp;nbsp;°C to have any hope of printing fast. At 220&amp;nbsp;°C I'm really surprised you're not having problems with underextrusion instead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bed temperature is likely even more important. Minimum bed temperature for PETG is 80&amp;nbsp;°C. If the material is hitting a 58&amp;nbsp;°C bed as it comes out, it's likely to cool way too fast. This may lead to what you call shoveling (especially if you see both pits and ridges rather than just ridges), but even if not, it's going to prevent the material from bonding to previously laid down lines, so that your print will end up more brittle than PLA.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One additional detail I initially missed involves your 0.8&amp;nbsp;mm nozzle. It might be hard for the hotend to keep up with properly melting that much PETG at normal print speeds. As noted in the comments, a 50&amp;nbsp;mm/s linear extrusion rate with an 0.8&amp;nbsp;mm nozzle is equivalent, in volumetric extrusion rate, to a 200&amp;nbsp;mm/s linear extrusion rate with a typical 0.4&amp;nbsp;mm nozzle, which would be extremely fast for PETG. It's unlikely that any hotend except a &quot;volcano&quot; or similar (with extended melt zone length) could keep up with raising that much material to 250&amp;nbsp;°C that quickly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-07-22T05:41:19.253" LastActivityDate="2019-07-22T05:41:19.253" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10606" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-07-15T17:59:06.740" Score="1" ViewCount="52" Body="&lt;p&gt;I finished assembly of the Anet A6. The green light on the power box comes on with the fuse removed, turns off when it is put back in place. When checking it with a voltage meter it looks like power is getting to all of the pieces it just wont turn on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Before I start buying replacement parts I thought I would see if anyone had some suggestions?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17015" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2019-08-31T08:20:20.530" LastActivityDate="2019-08-31T08:20:20.530" Title="Anet A6 Just finished the assembly, has power but wont turn on" Tags="|troubleshooting|electronics|anet-a6|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10607" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10585" CreationDate="2019-07-15T19:24:07.963" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;This will not work reliably.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know, I have tried it, for a couple of years, with poor consistency.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, I will tell you that it worked better than the parallax IR sensors.  It worked better than trying to slam the head into the bed and listen for the click.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I used the brass nozzle and the aluminum bed as a switch to detect the bed position.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I used ABS slurry on the bed.  With a 100°C bed the ABS was soft enough for the nozzle to make contact.  Elmer's Glue for PLA also was soft enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But, with the elasticity I had in the synthetic Z-axis of the delta machine, the time delay to much the bed adhesive out of the way, and the general problem of trying to conduct electricity through an aluminum oxide layer, I had variability of about 0.1 mm, which was far to much to give a reliable first layer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To &quot;level&quot; the delta bed, I would touch each point several times (with a clean bed) and fit my leveling function to the noisy data.  For finding my zero reference at the beginning of a print, I would touch off three time and only use the third one.  This helped, but it was still super noisy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have subsequently incorporated a strain gauge in the triangular delta-bit.  It gives much more accurate contact information and is not effected by the bed glue not does the aluminum oxide layer cause problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2082" LastActivityDate="2019-07-15T19:24:07.963" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10608" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-07-15T21:08:25.903" Score="2" ViewCount="229" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently got an Ender 3 3D printer for my birthday, and while I've had a lot of problems with it, there's one that I haven't been able to fix. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can control the Z-axis, but whenever I go to print anything, it never does anything. The X- and Y-axis work just fine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any solutions?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17049" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-07-15T23:29:37.467" LastActivityDate="2019-07-15T23:29:37.467" Title="Ender 3 Z axis not working?" Tags="|creality-ender-3|z-axis|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2020-08-27T09:55:02.163" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10610" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-07-16T06:45:47.640" Score="3" ViewCount="312" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm making a hybrid 3D printer and circuit etching (CNC milling) machine that can both 3D print and etch prototype circuit boards. I'll be using Marlin firmware with an Arduino Mega &amp;amp; RepRap 1.4 board. It will have a 3D printer head and a milling head side by side. I'd like to have it be able to read both .gbr (for circuit etching) and .gcode (for 3D printing) files. How should I configure Marlin to read both types?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17054" LastEditorUserId="17054" LastEditDate="2019-07-18T02:41:26.703" LastActivityDate="2019-07-18T02:41:26.703" Title="Using both .gcode and .gbr files in a hybrid 3D printer + circuit etching machine? (RepRap 1.4 with Marlin firmware)" Tags="|marlin|diy-3d-printer|cnc|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10611" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10613" CreationDate="2019-07-16T07:02:36.777" Score="2" ViewCount="1311" Body="&lt;p&gt;One of the main hacks for converting RAMPS 1.4 boards to use with 24 V, as stated in &lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/wiki/RAMPS_24v&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;RAMPS 24V&lt;/a&gt;, is replacing the polyfuses, principally &lt;code&gt;F2&lt;/code&gt; (MF-R1100), with wire and using an inline (car blade or wire) fuse on the heatbed wire (or between PSU and RAMPS) instead&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;. However, that is for the RAMPS 1.4 boards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As &lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/wiki/RAMPS_1.5&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;RAMPS 1.5&lt;/a&gt; notes (as well as 0scar's answer to &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/5623/ramps-1-4-1-5-or-1-6&quot;&gt;RAMPS 1.4, 1.5 or 1.6?&lt;/a&gt;):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The RAMPS 1.5 uses small surface-mounted fuses rather than the large yellow fuses prone to breakage on the RAMPS 1.4. The downside is that replacing the fuses becomes much more difficult.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are these SMD fuses rated the same voltages, or greater? Yes, this could be a bit like asking &amp;quot;How long is a piece of string&amp;quot; as it depends upon the manufacturer, but does anyone know what voltage &lt;em&gt;should&lt;/em&gt; they be rated for?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ultimately, if they are both rated at greater than 24 V, then there should be no need to replace them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;https://discuss.toms3d.org/hardware-f6/ramps1-4-or-ramps1-5-or-ramps-1-6-t481.html#p2786&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;answer&lt;/a&gt; on this thread, &lt;a href=&quot;https://discuss.toms3d.org/hardware-f6/ramps1-4-or-ramps1-5-or-ramps-1-6-t481.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Re: Ramps1.4 or Ramps1.5 or ramps 1.6???&lt;/a&gt; states:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;OK the ramps 1.6 can only handle 12v OR 24V&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;so, that would imply that the intention for 24 V support was there, although, unfortunately, the poster does not post their reference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, the &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/bigtreetech/ramps-1.6/blob/master/Ramps1.6/hardware/R6Schematic%20diagram.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;PDF&lt;/a&gt; of the RAMPS 1.6 schematic shows the same rated fuses as the RAMPS 1.4&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hbPML.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hbPML.png&quot; alt=&quot;RAMPS 1.6 Power section&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Nevertheless, that seems like a straight forward copy and paste from the RAMPS 1.4 schematic as it clearly references the MF-R500 PTC, and obviously SMD fuses have been used instead - or are the part numbers the same for the SMD fuses..? I had a google but couldn't see MF-R500 SMD fuses (maybe I didn't look hard enough?).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Footnote&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; This is because the 11 A fuse is only rated to 16 V. Note that &lt;code&gt;F1&lt;/code&gt; (MF-R500) is rated for 5 A at 30 V, and as such is sufficient for 24 V operation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4762" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:29:41.667" LastActivityDate="2020-12-11T19:10:57.847" Title="Is it necessary to replace the SMD fuses in RAMPS 1.5 or greater, for use with 24 volts?" Tags="|printer-building|power-supply|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10612" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-07-16T08:10:52.067" Score="2" ViewCount="3028" Body="&lt;p&gt;Recently I was gifted an Ender 3 3D printer. I'm trying to use a Raspberry Pi Zero W to send commands to the printer remotely, if I get this to work the idea is to instruct the RPi to pull G-code files over the internet and then send it to the printer. I read about Octoprint but they don't recommend using RPi Zero W with it, and also I want to learn more about programming (I just know Python), so if possible I'd like to avoid using it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is what I've done:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;My RPi Zero W has Raspbian Buster Lite, so I'm using &lt;code&gt;SSH&lt;/code&gt; to connect to it remotely. The pi is connected to the mini usb port on the printer.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Once connected I located the serial of the printer, which is &lt;code&gt;ttyUSB0&lt;/code&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I verified the baud rate using &lt;code&gt;stty &amp;lt; /dev/ttyUSB0&lt;/code&gt;, which was set to about 9600.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I read on the internet that the Ender 3 controller has a baud rate of 115200, so I ran &lt;code&gt;stty -F /dev/ttyUSB0 115200&lt;/code&gt; and that worked fine.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I tried sending the G-code to go to home position (&lt;code&gt;G28&lt;/code&gt;) via serial using &lt;code&gt;echo &quot;G28&quot; &amp;gt; /dev/ttyUSB0&lt;/code&gt;, but that just restarts the printer (the screen shows the logo and then returns back to the info screen). This persists even when sending different commands.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried opening another SSH session to read the output of the printer using &lt;code&gt;tail -f /dev/ttyUSB0&lt;/code&gt;, but that again restarts the printer, and sending &lt;code&gt;echo&lt;/code&gt; to it when &lt;code&gt;tail&lt;/code&gt; is running won't do anything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17056" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-07-16T09:39:54.930" LastActivityDate="2019-07-16T09:39:54.930" Title="Sending G-code through USB serial doesn't work (Ender 3)" Tags="|g-code|creality-ender-3|raspberry-pi|serial-connection|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2019-07-16T19:39:48.203" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10613" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10611" CreationDate="2019-07-16T08:39:00.077" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Without knowing the exact part numbers used for F1 and F2 it is impossible to say whether the fuses need to be replaced or not. However, based on the manufacturer provided schematic and BOM we can make a pretty good guess.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looking at the PDF you linked, it states that F1 is rated for 16V. Looking at the &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/bigtreetech/ramps-1.6/blob/master/Ramps1.6/BOM%20form/BQ105-A4%20%E3%80%90RAMPS%201.6%E3%80%91Interface%20board%20R6%20%20BOM%20form.xls&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;BOM spreadsheet&lt;/a&gt; it also says F1 is 16V and 30A.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Based on the fact that the only two reference documents available say 16V, I would strongly recommend replacing this component for 24V operation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="66" LastActivityDate="2019-07-16T08:39:00.077" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10614" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-07-16T08:50:44.767" Score="3" ViewCount="1040" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have installed OctoPi on my Raspberry Pi 3B+, that is connected to an MKS GEN L v1.0 motherboard for my 3D printer  (Ender 3 Pro). When I open my OctoPrint into a browser I can use it, but I wanted to install some plugins. First time I had an error that said my server was offline, after connecting my Raspberry to WiFi and setting up a static ip-address, I've connected my Raspberry to my main board, after that it said the status of OctoPrint was operational, so I expected it will work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sadly, it says that my installation doesn't have internet, so I still couldn't install plugins. I see that in the &quot;connectivity check&quot; my host is 8.8.8.8 and my port 53; I've pressed on test and there it said &quot;server is unreachable&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What am I supposed to do?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17058" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-07-16T09:17:50.373" LastActivityDate="2019-07-16T09:29:04.260" Title="I can't install plugins on OctoPrint?" Tags="|octoprint|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10615" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10614" CreationDate="2019-07-16T09:29:04.260" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/foosel/OctoPrint/issues/2474&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;known issue (WIFI fine, but no internet connection to install plugins)&lt;/a&gt; and could well be related to firewall or blocking of certain ports by your Internet Service Provider (ISP).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I quote from the provided link (OctoPrint issue tracker):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Disabling the connectivity check did fix the repository access. The check was configure to use google (8.8.8.8) on port various ports (22, 53, 5000, etc. Not sure the default). I do not have any firewall set up outgoing, unless it is buried in the Raspberian install that I am not aware of.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I stumbled across this issue with the same problem, and I fixed the connectivity check by changing the IP to OpenDNS with 1.1.1.1 instead of the Google DNS 8.8.8.8 set by default.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;For me this issue was resolved when I update Date+Time on the raspberry...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2019-07-16T09:29:04.260" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10616" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10610" CreationDate="2019-07-16T12:30:10.140" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can use both .gcode and .gbr files one one machine. We do it where I work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, when we make prototype circuit boards, we don't print them; we acquire circuit board blanks, and then we either:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Use a diode laser to burn off the top layer of garolite for isolation traces, then do a chemical dip to remove that copper, then another laser burn to expose pads for surface mount components; or&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Use a spindle tool to remove the top layer of garolite where needed for pads, as well as mill through the copper layer for isolation traces.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We have not found a printable material that has the conductivity we want in a circuit board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Source: I work for &lt;a href=&quot;http://hyrel3d.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Hyrel 3D&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Gk8gV.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Gk8gV.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: we don't use Marlin on Arduino, we use in-house firmware on STM32F429 boards. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4922" LastEditorUserId="4922" LastEditDate="2019-07-16T13:07:04.420" LastActivityDate="2019-07-16T13:07:04.420" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10618" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10248" CreationDate="2019-07-16T13:24:16.937" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit: The z-hop problem has been fixed in Cura 4.2.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a known issue with Cura 4.1 when z-hop is enabled.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you touch the z-axis motor frame while it is apparently stationary, you may feel it is actually moving.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The solution is to set a value (I used something like 250 in conjunction with an Ender 3) for the &quot;Maximum Z Speed&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First you need to get the setting to be visible, so go to the &quot;Settings&quot; menu and choose &quot;Configure setting visibility...&quot;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LrN1v.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LrN1v.png&quot; alt=&quot;Configure setting visibility dialog&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then in the &quot;Print settings&quot; panel:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Jzm3u.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Jzm3u.png&quot; alt=&quot;Print settings panel&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The full story is available on GitHub at &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/Ultimaker/Cura/issues/5753&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;[4.1 - current master branch] Z feed rates #5753&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11255" LastEditorUserId="11255" LastEditDate="2019-08-02T16:02:23.480" LastActivityDate="2019-08-02T16:02:23.480" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10619" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10595" CreationDate="2019-07-16T14:41:19.997" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't know how to explain how the problem is occurring with the STL post-processing tools you are using.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Try loading the STL directly into a slicer and view the result, then slice and view the toolpath.  It is always helpful to eliminate steps in an attempt to narrow down where the problem is generated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Were I to try to patch the OpenSCAD model, I would create a hub component that overlays where the crack is found.  This would be small cylinder with a hole that overlays the hub.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have had success adding elements and holes to existing OpenSCAD models and imported STL files using OpenSCAD.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2082" LastActivityDate="2019-07-16T14:41:19.997" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10620" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10610" CreationDate="2019-07-17T17:45:48.683" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well, I'm Using pronterface to send the gcode to print the traces of my PCB with an ink pen (sharpie); since the parameter in the Marlin-Rep rap1.4 is configured to fast print, So I can easily send the code just setting the origin or Zero to print on any area of the printer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To set the new Zero just use the code G92, for example we need to print in the middle of the printer, so just move the spindle to that position and set G92 X0 Y0, then andjust the Z height then set G92 Z0. for your milling add a Z secure travel to avoid collide with the surface and or mechanical clamps&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This video shows a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=arTFvzyqAwE&amp;amp;t=49s&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;PCB print&lt;/a&gt; in the 3Dprinter, so for the milling process will be the same. The video shows also the process making the holes on the CNC; I didn't do in the 3d printer because in that time I hadn't a dremel support. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also Tech2C teach how you can configure the whole printer, just &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6ipcdhXetHY&amp;amp;t=5s&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;follow this link&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, be happy milling in your 3d printer&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Note:&lt;/strong&gt; for gbrl files I haven't tested but you can try to read and send&#xA;  your code thru this program (&lt;em&gt;pronterface&lt;/em&gt;) probably you cand get some&#xA;  messages like &quot;uknown code&quot; just like &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;gcode sender&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; does while trying&#xA;  to send codes for laser etching (old versions).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4454" LastEditorUserId="4454" LastEditDate="2019-07-17T17:53:36.627" LastActivityDate="2019-07-17T17:53:36.627" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10621" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-07-18T15:48:48.733" Score="0" ViewCount="124" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just bought a new Lulzbot Taz Pro which has dual extrusion. The second extruder will not move when it is about to print so it is extruding filament in above the print bed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the print switches from the first extruder to the second extruder it does not move down, so when it begins to print the filament just dangles from the extruder and ends up clumping together and not sticking to the bed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've tried manually adjusting the heights of the extruders up and down but the second extruder will not move. I am not sure if this is a defect with the machine or if the was something i did wrong during the set up. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17082" LastEditorUserId="16371" LastEditDate="2019-07-22T16:36:22.010" LastActivityDate="2019-07-22T16:36:22.010" Title="Lulzbot Taz Pro E2 Not Lowering Into Position" Tags="|lulzbot|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10622" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-07-18T19:13:58.623" Score="4" ViewCount="148" Body="&lt;p&gt;With Ender 3 is there a way to configure printer extruder to go all way up when the printing finishes?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or even with the Ultimaker Cura software?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want this, because i'm going to put a switch on the top of the printer that will switch it off when the printer finishes (if i can make the arm with the extruder go all the way up when printing finishes.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can this be done?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16424" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2019-08-31T08:03:15.490" LastActivityDate="2019-08-31T08:03:15.490" Title="Is there a way to configure printer extruder to go all way up when printing finishes in Ender 3?" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|creality-ender-3|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10623" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10624" CreationDate="2019-07-18T20:06:52.717" Score="3" ViewCount="274" Body="&lt;p&gt;Do the properties of 3D printer resin allow it to stick to copper clad surfaces when cured? I am interested in turning my filament based 3D printer into a photo plotter with a laser that can cure a thin layer of resin coated onto a copper surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12857" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-07-19T11:12:40.043" LastActivityDate="2019-07-19T11:12:40.043" Title="Can the resin from Resin based 3D printers be used to make printed circuit boards?" Tags="|resin|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10624" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10623" CreationDate="2019-07-18T20:48:17.063" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Brushed aluminum is a common bed surface for resin based printers. The aspect of the aluminum that is important to the print is the adhesion, hence the roughness of brushed aluminum. It has to be sufficient to hold the print in place, but not so extreme as to cause destruction on removal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the case of copper as a print surface, one would certainly want some mechanical adhesion in the form of surface roughness. You've not specified the forces that would be applied to the copper once cured. If you do not plan to manipulate the copper surface in an excessive manner, it's likely that it would adhere. It's also just as likely to pop free if the plate or surface is flexed. I've seen no reference online to copper coated print beds. This would lead me to believe that it was tested and rejected as suitable for 3D printing, but not necessarily unsuitable for your purposes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is one of those situations where testing is warranted and not particularly difficult to accomplish. You can purchase UV curing resin, build a tin to hold the copper surface and pour the expected layer thickness. Leave it in the sun and let nature's UV do the curing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Consider if you have not yet done so to research safety practice for handling this substance. Wear gloves and eye protection, cover any exposed skin surfaces and have good ventilation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastActivityDate="2019-07-18T20:48:17.063" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10625" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10622" CreationDate="2019-07-18T21:37:59.057" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you use OctoPrint, there is a plugin that will allow you to take action on certain events, such as print completion. The action that it can take would allow you to turn of a TP-link smart plug; which would turn off the printer. You could then use the phone app to turn it back on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12857" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-07-20T07:15:24.540" LastActivityDate="2019-07-20T07:15:24.540" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10626" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10538" CreationDate="2019-07-18T21:42:50.037" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;In more practical terms, you could design the part so that the corners are rounded (also known as fillets). This will help keep the print head moving and would prevent the sudden stop and start effect that causes &quot;jerking&quot;. Further 8 bit controllers tend to get saturated when reading large amounts of g-code from the sd card or the serial port. Upgrading to a 32 bit controller will prevent that kind of jerking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both of these methods pale in comparison to just speeding up the print. Upgrading the hardware to be faster (various methods exist) would yield more of a reduced time than trying to optimize the g-code (in my humble opinion). Delta printers have the potential to be the fastest type of FDM printer, assuming that you could get the filament to melt fast enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12857" LastActivityDate="2019-07-18T21:42:50.037" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10627" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10622" CreationDate="2019-07-19T06:48:46.900" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Ultimaker Cura (and pretty much any slicer), you can easily modify the end code of the Ender 3. To go all the way up, you could add the following in the end:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;G90 ;absolute positioning&#xA;G1 Z300 ;goto height 300 ; Move to 300 mm = 30 cm.&#xA;G91 ;back to relative positioning&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-07-19T21:17:50.943" LastActivityDate="2019-07-19T21:17:50.943" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10628" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10622" CreationDate="2019-07-19T08:44:20.633" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The most safe way to move the printer up to the maximum print height is to use a concept known as &quot;&lt;strong&gt;keywords&lt;/strong&gt;&quot; (sort of constants that are filled by the correct value when slicing) in Ultimaker Cura, certainly if you have multiple printers with different print area sizes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To use these keywords, just add these in between curly braces and insert them into your slicer &quot;End G-code&quot; script. These keywords will be substituted with actual numbers from the printer settings or slicing configuration parameters. In this case we need to use the maximum print height which is specified by the keyword &lt;code&gt;machine_height&lt;/code&gt;. This keyword takes its value from the printer settings, set for the printer in the graphical user interface of the printer settings, see image below (this is a configuration of an Ultimaker 3 Extended, it also shows the &lt;strong&gt;Start G-code&lt;/strong&gt; and &lt;strong&gt;End G-code&lt;/strong&gt; which you can tweak yourself, as seen by the additional G-code line &lt;code&gt;G0 F10000 Z{machine_height}&lt;/code&gt; that has been added for this demonstration).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Np6Gy.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Printer settings, configuration of an Ultimaker 3 Extended&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Np6Gy.png&quot; alt=&quot;Printer settings, configuration of an Ultimaker 3 Extended&quot; title=&quot;Printer settings, configuration of an Ultimaker 3 Extended&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;E.g. similar to &lt;a href=&quot;/a/10627&quot;&gt;this answer&lt;/a&gt;, you could solve this with a keyword. Now when you slice for a certain printer (e.g. with the printer settings of the image above), the correct value will be filled in automatically when slicing the print object as can be seen from this snippet of G-code:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&#xA;...&#xA;G91 ;Relative movement&#xA;G0 F15000 X8.0 Z0.5 E-4.5 ;Wiping+material retraction&#xA;G0 F10000 Z1.5 E4.5 ;Compensation for the retraction&#xA;G90 ;Disable relative movement&#xA;G0 F10000 Z300 ; &amp;lt;------------ note to see {machine_height} be resolved to 300 mm&#xA;...&#xA;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;This is specifically for Ultimaker Cura. Do note that e.g. Slic3r even takes the keyword  concept further by allowing arithmetic and logic, similar as you could do in programming languages!&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-07-20T07:12:54.433" LastActivityDate="2019-07-20T07:12:54.433" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10629" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10631" CreationDate="2019-07-19T15:07:26.323" Score="3" ViewCount="573" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Duplicator i3 mini, which has yet to make it a month without breaking. This time it is extra broken because the filament is not extruding properly. the most successful print I've had yet had about a centimeter before turning into an absolute mess. I have a picture. It was not stringy, and had the exact shape i was trying to print, but was like a frame of a sort. I am printing with matterhackers MH build series PLA, which has worked before this started happening. What should I do? What troubleshooting steps should I take?&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZZzyt.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZZzyt.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;It&amp;#39;s a mess&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17091" LastActivityDate="2019-07-19T15:29:04.300" Title="Why is my 3D printer not extruding properly?" Tags="|print-quality|pla|troubleshooting|extrusion|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10630" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10629" CreationDate="2019-07-19T15:14:11.940" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;That looks like underextrusion as a result of a clog. Try cleaning the nozzle or replacing it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See this link for more information about clogged nozzles.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/5191/if-i-have-a-nozzle-clog-can-i-easily-get-rid-of-it-by-simply-replacing-the-nozz&quot;&gt;If I have a nozzle clog, can I easily get rid of it by simply replacing the nozzle?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12857" LastActivityDate="2019-07-19T15:14:11.940" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10631" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10629" CreationDate="2019-07-19T15:29:04.300" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Underextrusion and clogs can also be caused by insufficient temperature in the hot end. You've not reference your temperatures, so consider to use a test model and print at different temperatures. Too low temps can result in the problem you present, while too hot temps will increase stringing and peculiar blobs on the print. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your slicer changes print speed at the layer of destruction, it may also be too fast, which is related to temperatures. Simplify3D allows speed variation as well as temperature variation at selected layers, but it requires deliberate action on the part of the operator.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastActivityDate="2019-07-19T15:29:04.300" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10632" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-07-20T00:33:14.463" Score="1" ViewCount="326" Body="&lt;p&gt;Using a Gearman RepRap with Slic3r, printing from an SD card, with an uniterupted power supply (UPS), and both PLA and ABS filaments, short power outages often result in x/y-axis offsets (see image).  During an outage the power is not as clear from a UPS as from a power conditioner.  If both x and y axes offset the results look like &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10432/why-did-my-print-fall-off-its-raft?noredirect=1#comment17398_10432&quot;&gt;Why did my print fall off its raft?&lt;/a&gt;.  Are you experiencing these same issues?  Have you solved the issue.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cSUVd.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cSUVd.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Shows x-axis offset (ABS)&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The image above shows an x-axis shift that occurred evenly across eight parts distributed across the bed.  The filament was ABS.  The parts still adhered to the bed.  Note: the G-code file normally prints well.  Thus, the file is not corrupt.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15075" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-07-20T01:23:35.750" LastActivityDate="2019-07-23T02:25:28.853" Title="Do you have trouble with 3D printer on UPS during short power outages?" Tags="|print-failure|print-axis-offset|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10633" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-07-20T01:32:01.073" Score="0" ViewCount="46" Body="&lt;p&gt;Recently bought the printer for my son, right from the start it didn’t print well. We made some adjustments and got it working somewhat but now it keeps printing (Benchy) only half way up and starts knocking off top half over leaving it unfinished.&#xA;The bottom heat plate looks to be crooked maybe by a 1/16” (1.6&amp;nbsp;mm) to 1/8”(3.2&amp;nbsp;mm) off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17096" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-07-20T06:53:32.720" LastActivityDate="2019-07-20T06:53:32.720" Title="Flashforge Adventure 3 printer" Tags="|flashforge-adventurer-3|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10634" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-07-20T01:43:10.443" Score="5" ViewCount="1865" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was attempting to install new TMC2208 chips on my MKS Gen L v1.0. Everything was going swell, I just had one more thing to do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was checking and tuning the Vref for TMC2208 by measuring voltage across the GND pin and the through-hole shown in this pic (from &lt;a href=&quot;https://wiki.fysetc.com/TMC2208/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Stepper drivers - TMC2208&lt;/a&gt;):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Nzxhe.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Checking current motor setting&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Nzxhe.png&quot; alt=&quot;Checking current motor setting&quot; title=&quot;Checking current motor setting&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However during very last measurement on the X-axis stepper I slipped and the probe on my meter shorted the GND and VM pins on the TMC2208!! Pic below:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KlQWv.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Illustration of shorted pins&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KlQWv.png&quot; alt=&quot;Illustration of shorted pins&quot; title=&quot;Illustration of shorted pins&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Immediately my board turned off, LCD went out, then I unplugged the printer as fast as I could, but the damage was done. My board now does not power on completely when connected only to the PSU.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The LED D7 will flicker on and off, as will the LCD screen. However, if I connect the board over USB I am able to connect and interact with the board just fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have meticulously checked the board for blown components but can't see any damage. The two fuses near the 12 V power on the board are not blown.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is anyone able to offer some insight on this? Does it sound like a salvageable board?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Comment responses:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;@Oscar:&lt;/strong&gt; Thanks and yes I've (attempted) to power the board without anything plugged-in/attached to see if it works, but no dice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;@Tom:&lt;/strong&gt; There is a lot packed into your comment that required searching for info to even respond. The 5 V voltage regulator on my MKS Gen L v1.0 board looks to be an MP1584en chip. Seen in pic below from &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.monolithicpower.com/pub/media/document/MP1584_r1.0.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;MP1584_r1.0.pdf&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zHMjo.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;MP1584en pin out&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zHMjo.png&quot; alt=&quot;MP1584en pin out&quot; title=&quot;MP1584en pin out&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I connect the board via USB and test the Vin pin, I see a steady ~4.2 V . When I remove USB and connect straight to the power supply I see a unsteady Vin between 6-7 V .&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I would like to trace from this MP1584EN back to my 12 V power source on the board. However, after searching it appears that the schematics for the MKS Gen L v1.0 are not available openly. Unless there is an avenue to find the schematic which I have overlooked. Anyone that can link me to them would be much appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;@R:&lt;/strong&gt; OP's level is a green-horn baby kitten at its very first rodeo. However your suggestion appeals to me because it sounds like a quick easy soldering fix. To better understand, do you mean to take my 12 V from the power source then connect it to different regulator (usb car charger) and then on the secondary side of the car charger, connect it back into my board?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're willing to give a bit more of a description this is something I'd definitely be willing to try.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Thanks for all the responses.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17095" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2021-08-08T07:58:44.657" LastActivityDate="2023-06-21T06:54:24.400" Title="Did I just destroy my MKS Gen L v1.0 board by shorting the stepper driver?" Tags="|troubleshooting|electronics|stepper-driver|maintenance|hardware|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10635" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10538" CreationDate="2019-07-20T14:37:42.017" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;I would have liked to answer linking to credible official sources, but I cannot add references either on direct B-spline printing. So I'm writing down my thoughts. I've familiarized myself in B-splines to understand what they are and read into the 2 references given by the OP.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically, the printer software only allows printing of straight lines. Yes I know we can give orders to the printer to print a curve (using &lt;code&gt;G2&lt;/code&gt; or &lt;code&gt;G3&lt;/code&gt;), but these eventually will be converted to printing straight lines. There is no ready made printer firmware available to print cubic curves directly to my knowledge. If it would be possible, these curves should eventually be translated into smaller straight lines by the firmware of timed stepper rotational output. These extra calculations would demand a considerable effort of the printer board processor, most probably far more an 8-bit processor would be able to handle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Comparing the &lt;a href=&quot;https://m.box.com/shared_item/https%3A%2F%2Fumich.box.com%2Fs%2Fn9cvs27ckehdr64gzv5igtmboykymgk6&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;paper released in 2017&lt;/a&gt; to the &lt;a href=&quot;https://hackaday.io/project/7045-splinetravel&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;G-code pre-processing software&lt;/a&gt; reveals that although both seem to refer to B-spline techniques, they are implemented differently. For example, the pre-processing software aims to reduce the linear travel moves by replacing these with B-spline curves (and not affect the actual print object), while the paper focuses on the optimization of the actual printing curves being optimized by B-spline curves (also using a pre-processor). Both eventually would need to create a multitude of small straight lines to have the printer be able to actually print the object as there is no 3D printing firmware solution to print curves. Do note that the method in the paper has been &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprint.com/195734/um-update-algorithm/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;questioned by the RepRap community&lt;/a&gt;, which demonstrated that they could print the same object way faster than the B-spline optimized example. Furthermore, do note that the Marlin community is probably moving in that direction as can be seen from e.g. &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/issues/8308&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this feature request&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://marlinfw.org/meta/gcode/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this G-code meta overview&lt;/a&gt;; G-code instruction &lt;code&gt;G5&lt;/code&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, both methods rely on pre-processing G-codes by identification of sliced coordinate (print) moves, translation into Bézier/B-spline curves for (print) moves, which eventually are translated into normal &lt;code&gt;G0/G1&lt;/code&gt; (print) moves. It does not appear that the Marlin community/developers are aiming to implement Bézier or B-spline curves soon. This implies that if you want to pursuit printing B-splines, you need to make your own pre-processor, or dive into Marlin C++ development; an 8-bit based printer board would not be sufficient indeed like the OP mentioned, up-scaling to 32-bit or interfacing with USB might be the only solution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-05-12T21:16:18.853" LastActivityDate="2021-05-12T21:16:18.853" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10636" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10651" CreationDate="2019-07-20T15:43:58.080" Score="7" ViewCount="1053" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Please Note:&lt;/strong&gt; This question is &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; about the design. It's about deciding print orientation &lt;em&gt;after the design&lt;/em&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a small, but complex piece which I need to print. Here are two images of different orientation for you:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jpi84.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jpi84.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FPuGb.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FPuGb.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No matter how I orient it, it will require a support structure. Any which way I print it, I believe there will be pros/cons to doing so. My question is, &lt;strong&gt;Is there a thought process for how to orient the part for printing?&lt;/strong&gt; What are some of the things to consider when deciding print orientation? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note-1: For a size reference of the part, looking at the second image, it is approximately 60&amp;nbsp;mm from the top of the long bottom part with the two &quot;claws&quot; point down, to the top of the vertical piece which has the two larger chamfered holes in it. In the same image, the left part will be at the bottom when put into use, though will be suspended (the chamfered holes will have wood screws in them, with a block of wood on the other side from the chamfers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note-2: For this example, I will be using Priline PLA filament on an Anet-A8 printer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11242" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2020-08-15T20:33:03.897" LastActivityDate="2020-08-15T20:33:03.897" Title="How to decide print orientation?" Tags="|3d-design|print-orientation|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10637" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10636" CreationDate="2019-07-20T17:16:46.403" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;First of all, if it were me, I'd split this into two parts at the &quot;obvious&quot; place (where one protrudes from a large flat surface of the other) and connect them after printing, with a push fit and glue (or solvent welding if it works for your material), or holes for threaded fasteners.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With that said, if you opt to print it as one part, this interface is going to be the weak point of the whole print if you use the second orientation, with the &quot;T&quot;-like bracket part sticking up from a flat top surface of the &quot;C&quot; part. This is because the walls of the top part will be sitting on infill or skin, not matching walls going all the way down; even with 100% infill the walls won't be aligned and bonded with coresponding extrusion lines below them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would print this &lt;em&gt;either&lt;/em&gt; with the lightest-gray faces facing us in the second image against the bed, or with the dark gray rectangle face in the lower-right of the second image against the bed (same orientation as the first image, as I interpret it). Both of these will require significant support structure, and I'd be tempted to model the support rather than auto-generating it, but Cura's &quot;experimental&quot; &quot;support tree&quot; feature works very well for this kind of situation and might do just as well or better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Either of these orientations makes the above interface simply part of the layer contours, rather than two parts loosely stuck to each other. The holes should print fine either way - bridging works well for holes - and the pegs will need support one way but not the other.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Andrew Morton noted in a comment:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Could the part with the screw holes be the same width as the other part?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And indeed I would also think about modifications you could make to the part that would facilitate easier and stronger prints.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastEditorUserId="11157" LastEditDate="2019-07-20T17:20:17.240" LastActivityDate="2019-07-20T17:20:17.240" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10638" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-07-20T22:11:16.773" Score="6" ViewCount="2130" Body="&lt;p&gt;When making a cylinder, sometimes I need to only take a pie slice. I'm currently using &lt;a href=&quot;http://forum.openscad.org/Creating-pie-pizza-slice-shape-need-a-dynamic-length-array-tp3148p3149.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; neat trick to make pie slices for angles under 90 degrees. However, I have need of a few angles over 90 but under 180 degrees. Is there a way to generalize/extend this to work for these bigger angles? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;module pie_slice(r=3.0,a=30) {     &#xA;   intersection() {&#xA;    circle(r=r);&#xA;    square(r);&#xA;    rotate(a-90) square(r);  &#xA;  } &#xA;}&#xA;&#xA;pie_slice(r=10,a=15);&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16835" LastActivityDate="2019-09-27T16:49:21.297" Title="Creating &quot;pie slice&quot; in OpenSCAD?" Tags="|3d-models|3d-design|openscad|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10639" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10638" CreationDate="2019-07-20T22:31:59.410" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;My current workaround is to use &lt;code&gt;union&lt;/code&gt; instead of intersection. Unfortunately, that means I have to use an &lt;code&gt;if&lt;/code&gt; clause which makes the code have two paths instead of one clean approach. Also, unlike the above method, this does not result in a clean cylindrical shape but must instead by combined with a proper cylinder to get the final pie slice   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;   size = length + 2;&#xA;    if (angle_deg &amp;lt;= 90) {&#xA;      translate([0,0,-1]) &#xA;      intersection() {&#xA;        cube(size);&#xA;        rotate(angle_deg-90) cube(size);&#xA;      }&#xA;    } else if (angle_deg &amp;lt;= 180) {&#xA;      translate([0,0,-1]) &#xA;      union() {&#xA;        cube(size);&#xA;        rotate(angle_deg-90) cube(size);&#xA;      }      &#xA;    } else {&#xA;      echo(str(&quot;FAILURE - Angle cannot exceed 180&quot;));&#xA;    } &#xA;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16835" LastActivityDate="2019-07-20T22:31:59.410" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10640" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-07-20T22:38:52.467" Score="2" ViewCount="732" Body="&lt;p&gt;The LCD resin printers I've looked at have pretty standard resolutions like for a smartphone and I understand they use the same technology. However, color LCD screens have three RGB sub-pixels for each color pixel. Check for example this magnified picture of an S-IPS LCD screen:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bml7t.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bml7t.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;It seems like they could just omit the color filter and have three grayscale pixels for each color pixel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3D printing just uses one color - UV. So why don't they have resolutions that are multiples of three of the usual resolutions?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All results about sub-pixels that I could find are about anti-aliasing, which is different (using the existing pixels better vs. having more pixels).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16836" LastEditorUserId="16836" LastEditDate="2019-07-22T16:00:38.013" LastActivityDate="2020-12-14T20:38:55.150" Title="Why don't LCD printers use subpixels in color panels?" Tags="|dlp|resin|lcd-screen|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10641" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10642" CreationDate="2019-07-21T01:48:04.343" Score="4" ViewCount="5379" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a da Vinci miniMaker and am trying to find a way to get XYZware on my computer which is running Ubuntu Linux 19.04. On the XYZprinting website I found references to a version build for Ubuntu, but it was an outdated version with no download link. If anyone knows any way to print to any XYZ 3D printed on Ubuntu, it would be appreciated if you could let me know.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15224" LastActivityDate="2019-07-21T06:36:55.303" Title="Using a XYZ printer on Linux" Tags="|software|linux|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10642" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10641" CreationDate="2019-07-21T02:50:14.717" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;XYZprinting is a company known for vendor lock-in (even filament), so it's not surprising that their software's Linux support is bad, but apparently it is possible to ditch their XYZware and get it to print gcode from whatever slicer you like. Check out the &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/reality-boy/miniMover&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;miniMover&lt;/a&gt; repository:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;This is a project that lets you send GCode to an XYZ da Vinci prniter. It will also convert from a .3w file to .gcode and back, and can monitor and setup the printer as well. This works with newer printers that implement the version 3 serial protocol. These include the Nano, Mini W, miniMaker and Jr. line of printers among others.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll also need to setup a profile for your printer in a slicer (I'd recommend Ultimaker Cura), but it looks like the thread linked from the README has information on settings needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-07-21T06:36:55.303" LastActivityDate="2019-07-21T06:36:55.303" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10643" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10644" CreationDate="2019-07-21T02:57:43.977" Score="4" ViewCount="753" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the RAMPS v1.4 board, it seems like the X, Y, and Z motors all use at least one analog pin, while the extruder motors are entirely digital. See just the top left block of this photo:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0OSvc.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;RAMPS 1.4 connectors&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0OSvc.png&quot; alt=&quot;RAMPS 1.4 connectors&quot; title=&quot;RAMPS 1.4 connectors&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any advantage to using analog vs. digital pins in the motors?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as I can tell the traditional thermistors have to be have an Analog pin input because of the way they are read and processed. The MOSFETs for the heated bed and hot ends (and fans) should be digital because of the way transistors work. The end-stops are also digital because they are on-off switches.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But besides that, I can't tell if there is any other requirements or advantages to using some pins in analog / digital, especially for the motors which have seemingly contradictory pin assignments.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are also three digital pins I don't recognize: MISO, MOSI, and SCK.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Right now I'm looking to add 2 new motors using 8 total pins (6 Digital pins, 2 for ground). It seems to me I could use any combination of the  D pin available in the image: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0bG7m.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Pin connection diagram AM350 v.9.5.1&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0bG7m.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Pin connection diagram AM350 v.9.5.1&quot; title=&quot;Pin connection diagram AM350 v.9.5.1&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10369" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2019-07-21T17:54:33.723" LastActivityDate="2019-11-06T05:45:57.827" Title="Digital vs. analog pins" Tags="|ramps-1.4|ramps|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10644" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10643" CreationDate="2019-07-21T06:38:36.217" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;&quot;Analog pin&quot; is misleading nomenclature. Every pin is a digtal pin, but some digital pins happen to also be connected to the analog-to-digital converter and can thus &lt;em&gt;also&lt;/em&gt; handle measuring analog signals.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Every analog pin can also serve as a perfectly good digital pin. The reverse is not true; if something requires an analog pin you cannot use a digital pin. The only things that require analog pins are the thermistors, for the rest (motors, MOSFETS, endstops,...) you can use either a digital pin or an analog pin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastActivityDate="2019-07-21T06:38:36.217" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10645" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10636" CreationDate="2019-07-21T07:40:02.810" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;To answer the generic question &lt;em&gt;&quot;Is there a thought process for how to orient the part for printing?&quot;&lt;/em&gt;, I would say &lt;em&gt;&quot;Yes there absolutely is such a process!&quot;&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Part of this though process can be aesthetics, structural strength, limiting filament waste, print duration, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the given example I would try to think of the load case (if it has to bear a load) that subjects the part and prevent a perpendicular load to the deposition plane. If the load is low or non existent, you could orientate the print such that you minimize wasting material, or get the best aesthetics (removing supports &lt;em&gt;can&lt;/em&gt; leave its scars).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2019-07-21T07:40:02.810" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10647" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10657" CreationDate="2019-07-22T03:57:56.643" Score="5" ViewCount="1171" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd like to add an extra motor to my board and I'm not sure where I went wrong. The motor will be used to spin a rotating wheel/carriage of potential hot ends to switch to. Because it's just a motor it doesn't need a heatrod or a temperature sensor. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had just a MKS_BASE 1.0 board, so I purchased a RAMPS 1.4 board from &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.ebay.com/itm/3D-Printer-RAMPS-1-4-Controller-Board-for-Arduino-Stampante-Reprap-Prusa-Mendel/303099940701?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&amp;amp;_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Ebay&lt;/a&gt; to be its extender.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ucxb5.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;RAMPS 1.4 board&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ucxb5.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;RAMPS 1.4 board&quot; title=&quot;RAMPS 1.4 board&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(( **Warning ** this board is cheap because it was improperly produced and is a fire hazard: &lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/wiki/RAMPS_1.4&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://reprap.org/wiki/RAMPS_1.4&lt;/a&gt; . I recommend using a CNC shield instead ))&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This red board is meant to fit an Arduino Mega, but I figure I can use the extra pins on the MKS_BASE1.0 and connect them with jumper wire to the RAMPS 1.4 board. It made sense in case I want to add other things to the original MKS_BASE 1.0 board (like more hot end heater cartridges). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I connected the 5V and one GND pin from my MKS_BASE 1.0. I also connected some of the SERVOS pins from the MKS_BASE 1.0: D37 is the 'Dir', D35 is the 'Step', and D17 is the 'Enable'. I also connected the 12V power supply to the RAMPS 1.4 board too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YlGDW.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;RAMPS 1.4 board pinout&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YlGDW.png&quot; alt=&quot;RAMPS 1.4 board pinout&quot; title=&quot;RAMPS 1.4 board pinout&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When it came time to modify Marlin everything was a bit annoying because although Marlin makes it easy to add more extruders, adding just motors is  a little more difficult. I had to change the number of extruders to be 3 (from dual extrusion to dual extrusion + extra motor), enable an extra temperature pin (which i am leaving empty) and also modify the pins.h file. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I probably wouldn't have had simulate this motor as an extruder if I knew the raw Arduino commands for spinning a motor using calls to &lt;code&gt;D37&lt;/code&gt;, &lt;code&gt;D35&lt;/code&gt;, and &lt;code&gt;D17&lt;/code&gt;, so I figured simulating an extruder would be better, but now I'm second-guessing that decision.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's my modification to pins.h:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#define E2_STEP_PIN 35&#xA;#define E2_DIR_PIN 37&#xA;#define E2_ENABLE_PIN 17&#xA;&#xA;#define HEATER_2_PIN 17  &#xA;&#xA;//#define TEMP_SENSOR_2 3 in Configuration.h&#xA;&#xA;#define TEMP_2_PIN 3&#xA;&#xA;// Marlin 0-indexes these pins, so &quot;2&quot; is actually for the &quot;3&quot;rd extruder&#xA;&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First thing I have to do is allow for cold extrusions by using M302 S-80. The other (real)  extruder motors will all move after this command, so I have that part working.. . &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In Repetier-Host I am just selecting Extruder 3 and trying to &quot;push filament&quot; through it but the motor isn't moving. I'm using an A4988 stepper driver on a Kysan 1124090. Actually, I did this whole process with two motors because I wasn't sure whether the hardware itself would be an issue, so with another set of pins I'm using a Suncor Motor and it also doesn't respond and I also don't know why.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It would be really helpful to debug if I could run a single G-code command just to get the motor running at a speed, and take that out of the equation. it doesn't have to be a command to an &quot;extruder&quot; but just a command to a pin out, like &lt;code&gt;M42 D35 S100&lt;/code&gt; (but I don't know the raw command for just testing a motor's connections). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10369" LastEditorUserId="10369" LastEditDate="2019-07-22T20:45:27.867" LastActivityDate="2019-08-28T21:33:05.603" Title="Where did I go wrong by trying to add an extra motor to my board?" Tags="|troubleshooting|ramps-1.4|wiring|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10648" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4542" CreationDate="2019-07-22T08:42:47.583" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;PEI filament has glass transition temperature higher than or close to 200 C. It is difficult to print with as it is printed about 350 C and requires heated chamber reaching to 90 C.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8651" LastActivityDate="2019-07-22T08:42:47.583" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10649" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10647" CreationDate="2019-07-22T12:57:16.880" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;code&gt;D35&lt;/code&gt;, &lt;code&gt;D37&lt;/code&gt;, &lt;code&gt;D17&lt;/code&gt; are the pin labels on the Arduino Mega. &lt;em&gt;These do not correspond to pin numbers within Marlin&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I believe that &lt;code&gt;D35&lt;/code&gt; actually corresponds to marlin pin &lt;code&gt;49&lt;/code&gt; and this is the number you should enter in your firmware. You can find the mapping in &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/blob/1.1.x/Marlin/fastio_1280.h&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;fastio_1280.h&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Hardware Pin  : 02 03 06 07 01 05 15 16 17 18 23 24 25 26 64 63 13 12 46 45 44 43 78 77 76 75 74 73 72 71 60 59 58 57 56 55 54 53 50 70 52 51 42 41 40 39 38 37 36 35 22 21 20 19 97 96 95 94 93 92 91 90 89 88 87 86 85 84 83 82 04 08 09 10 11 14 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 47 48 49 61 62 65 66 67 68 69 79 80 81 98 99 100&#xA;Port          : E0 E1 E4 E5 G5 E3 H3 H4 H5 H6 B4 B5 B6 B7 J1 J0 H1 H0 D3 D2 D1 D0 A0 A1 A2 A3 A4 A5 A6 A7 C7 C6 C5 C4 C3 C2 C1 C0 D7 G2 G1 G0 L7 L6 L5 L4 L3 L2 L1 L0 B3 B2 B1 B0 F0 F1 F2 F3 F4 F5 F6 F7 K0 K1 K2 K3 K4 K5 K6 K7 E2 E6 E7 xx xx H2 H7 G3 G4 xx xx xx xx xx D4 D5 D6 xx xx J2 J3 J4 J5 J6 J7 xx xx xx xx xx&#xA;Logical Pin   : 00 01 02 03 04 05 06 07 08 09 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 40 41 42 43 44 45 46 47 48 49 50 51 52 53 54 55 56 57 58 59 60 61 62 63 64 65 66 67 68 69 xx xx xx xx xx xx xx xx xx xx xx xx xx xx xx xx xx xx xx xx xx xx xx xx xx xx xx xx xx xx&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Look on the top row for the pin number (e.g. D35 corresponds to 35), then look on the bottom row to find the pin number to use in Marlin (in this case, 49).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastEditorUserId="26" LastEditDate="2019-07-22T20:00:41.907" LastActivityDate="2019-07-22T20:00:41.907" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10650" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10636" CreationDate="2019-07-22T13:10:27.847" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;This part is quite complex and there are 3 orientations it could be printed at. I will assume picture 1 shows the item in orthonormal XYZ orientation: Z up, X to the front(-rightish) corner, Y to the (backish-)right. Using these we can chose have an XY (Pic 1), XZ (Pic 2) and YZ (Unpictured) plane of the build to touch on the build plate. Luckily this object is symmetric along the middles, so we won't need to look at two cases each.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To evaluate the best print orientation, we can look at the loads that will come to the part, the aesthetic (we get better resolutions in the Z than the XY on printers!) and of course the need for support structures and thus waste material.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Aesthetics are probably not an issue for this structural part, so let's take this part as an example and look at the three orientations and how to reason which orientation might be best.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;XY&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using the lowest XY plane as build contact we will need to support the upper arc of the bracket and the back-branch with the T-support also needs support. So we need quite some support material, which is a con.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, the layers in the C-Clamp are aligned in such a way that the clamp might easily break in its long line, but due to the length, it might be able to bend quite some. Remember that PLA is brittle though, but you could post-process the part by baking it to generate better inter-layer bonding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the upside, the T-stiffening is in its most sturdy orientation and the back extension has the most stable print orientation. You might want to add extra bottom layers to fight the loss of layers that are printed on the support structure though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;XZ&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Orientation in the 2nd Picture has moved the interlayer boundaries to be on the short arms of the C-clamp, making it more fragile than the XY orientation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The T-stiffing and back-branch are also significantly weakened and might break on stresses into the direction we had defined as Y in the premise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It also needs to support the whole back of the C-Clamp during print, which is a considerable amount, though probably lower than in the XY orientation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;YZ&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The unshown orientation puts the C-clamp in such an orientation that each layer has a complete C. This makes the clamp as sturdy as it could be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The back-branch is quite solid along its length (Y) and the stiffening T comes as an integral part of the perimeters, making it good to take loads from the branch.  It does suffer from weakening the long part against forces splitting it along the long axis, which would be directed in the X-axis of our premise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This orientation also reduces the needed support to a minimum, as we don't necessarily need to support the &amp;quot;bridging&amp;quot; part of the T-support.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Conclusion&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would choose the YZ orientation based on both material need as well as the physical benefits of achieving the least weak configuration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Optimisation&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The print object could be slightly optimized to reduce the needed support at the cost of increasing the part weight in the YZ orientation:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As suggested, widening the T to touch the build plate and the accompanying part to do too would make the part larger and would turn the support into an integral part of the print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One could also turn the T into a Y structure with an overline for a shorter bridge and longer stretches of the shell that can dissipate the forces on the T-bar to the clamp more effectively.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:29:41.667" LastActivityDate="2019-07-22T14:28:18.390" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10651" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10636" CreationDate="2019-07-22T13:58:47.490" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;(Love the question and here is my 2 cents).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Firstly, you want to minimize supports. Even if you have dissolvable supports, you would still want to minimize the usage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For Example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LoQCE.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LoQCE.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Smartphone and tablet Stand by bq3D&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At first glance of the finished object, it is not obvious at what angle it was printed. Upon close inspection the overhang in the part is designed such that it can be printed without supports. This brings me to my first point:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Design with fabrication in mind&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've often designed myself into a corner with parts that are complex and are impossible to print properly; or they use up too much filament in the supports. To this end I try to &lt;em&gt;think about the shadow&lt;/em&gt; that the part will cast on the bed if there was a light source directly over head. I often orient the part so that it will &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Cast the smallest possible shadow.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then there are the features. Does the hole need to be round? Does this flange need to be strong? If so then I try to ensure that the feature is oriented in the XY plane as much as possible, because the Z axis is the weakest. Therefore if you have a hole, and it needs to be strong, then it should be printed perpendicular to the Z axis.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12857" LastEditorUserId="12857" LastEditDate="2019-07-22T14:06:31.743" LastActivityDate="2019-07-22T14:06:31.743" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10653" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10640" CreationDate="2019-07-22T17:54:39.317" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It should be as simple as using a monochrome LCD.  You don't actually want any color filters to interfere with the UV light.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do we know that LCD printers are not using monochrome LCD panels?  It always seemed so obvious that I assumed it was the practice.  All you need are the front and back polarizer layer and the LCD itself to rotate the light.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2082" LastActivityDate="2019-07-22T17:54:39.317" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10654" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9872" CreationDate="2019-07-22T18:15:02.450" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can you tell by looking at the de-adhesion what isn't sticking?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It may be that printing the ASA at higher temperature is melting the BVOH enough that it doesn't stick, being molten.  If so, then it may be possible to print the first layer of ASA at a cooler temperature, slower if necessary to still succeed at extrusion, with fans blowing.  Then, print the next layer of ASA at a higher temperature, also with fans flowing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A test might be to print the BVOH, then a layer of ASA, and stop.  Let it cool and test the adhesion.  If it sticks under these conditions, then a better command of the temperature profile may offer a way forward.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2082" LastActivityDate="2019-07-22T18:15:02.450" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10655" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8662" CreationDate="2019-07-22T18:51:34.447" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;As @T. M. notes in his comment, there are many good charts of chemical compatibility with various agents.  Very few (I found none) include information about PLA.  By all means, use search engines to find some information.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But, no data source is as true to your specific needs as is testing your candidate materials with your agents.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a first test put the agent in a tall thin jar or test tube.  Use a few test filaments so that the ends are dipping into the agent.  Check for signs of dissolution, swelling, softening, or any relevant change in the material's characteristics.  Examine the candidate filaments right away, then after minutes, then hours, and if any material survives, perhaps in days.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Print test objects.  Test them with your agent.  Try until you find something that works.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The online material compatibility tables will help you eliminate materials before testing them.  If it says a material is incompatible, it probably is incompatible.  If rated as highly compatible, it should be tested because the formulation of a filament may not match the material tested for the compatibility tables.  If you are running out of options, try the intermediate compatibility plastics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bottom line, use the online information to help direct your search, but you should do your own tests.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2082" LastActivityDate="2019-07-22T18:51:34.447" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10656" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10658" CreationDate="2019-07-22T20:16:19.893" Score="0" ViewCount="386" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just recently got an Ender 3 and have been trying to learn the do’s and don’ts. My first model looked like it had under extrusion and stringing, but my second model looks like it has frequent “scratches” along the sides. I printed it with two materials, a white sample PLA that came with, and a black Sunlu PLA.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3G5La.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3G5La.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Print showing lines on side of print&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I could use some insight on how to improve it, I’m seeking to make some fairly smooth looking models similar to Fat Dragon games.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17118" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-07-22T21:44:12.280" LastActivityDate="2019-07-22T21:44:12.280" Title="Models are printing with a scratch on the side" Tags="|print-quality|ultimaker-cura|pla|troubleshooting|creality-ender-3|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10657" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10647" CreationDate="2019-07-22T20:38:02.960" Score="1" Body="&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I got it to work using a CNC shield. Still haven't figured out the RAMPS 1.4 board.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;It doesn't work using D1 and D2 inside Aux-1 because they are used in serial communication to an LCD. So every time you send a command over USB, they get clogged. I ended up using ports 4, 5, and 63 and it works perfectly (no pin mapping needed like in other answer). &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;    #define E4_STEP_PIN    4 // D4&#xA;    #define E4_DIR_PIN     5//  D5&#xA;    #define E4_ENABLE_PIN  63// D63&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10369" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-08-28T21:33:05.603" LastActivityDate="2019-08-28T21:33:05.603" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10658" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10656" CreationDate="2019-07-22T21:33:38.783" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The vertical lines you are referring too are the result of &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/vibrations-and-ringing/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;ringing or vibration&lt;/a&gt;. This is commonly encountered with high print speeds, high acceleration values or if a sudden change in direction takes place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This can be solved by printing slower, decreasing acceleration values and checking for mechanical issues. E.g. the belts may be too flexible (or contain a tension spring) or there may be a loose part somewhere. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2019-07-22T21:33:38.783" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10659" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10660" CreationDate="2019-07-22T21:46:15.727" Score="0" ViewCount="484" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to know if it is possible to change the rollers for linear rails, just replacing or some calculation should be done and take some precautions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my case,  I have a Core XY DIY printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BQFCz.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BQFCz.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;1&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pWe7H.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pWe7H.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;2&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was reading about need to migrate of 8 Bits to 32 Bits, because for get better resolution, results and should be update more things, like add autolevel, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12715" LastActivityDate="2019-07-22T22:06:23.093" Title="Changes rods for linear rails" Tags="|diy-3d-printer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10660" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10659" CreationDate="2019-07-22T22:06:23.093" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've seen mods for the Hypercube (and Hypercube Evolution) using linear rails (e.g. &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2839395&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this mod&lt;/a&gt;), so yes that is possible. You need to redesign a few parts and make sure you have the correct length, but that shouldn't be too difficult.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2019-07-22T22:06:23.093" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10661" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10632" CreationDate="2019-07-23T00:03:00.120" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I believe I resolved this issue.  The next power outage will tell.  After getting a larger UPS used for robotic testers, when swapping out the UPS, I noticed the 3D printer was plugged in to the surge protector side without the battery, probably because the  smaller UPS was only rated for power to the computer.  Now, with the larger UPS, the 3D printer also has power backup.  What is puzzling is why did the 3D printer run as if the computer was still operating it, when is was printing from the SD card?  Was the circuitry getting power from the USB cable from the computer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: If one is running their 3D printer using a notebook with a charged battery and the 3D printer doesn't have a UPS, it would have similar behavior.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15075" LastActivityDate="2019-07-23T00:03:00.120" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10662" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10632" CreationDate="2019-07-23T02:25:28.853" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Part of your self-answer:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;What is puzzling is why did the 3D printer run as if the computer was still operating it, when is was printing from the SD card? Was the circuitry getting power from the USB cable from the computer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;is more of an extension of the question, which I'll answer. Generally, yes, the logic of many (most?) 3D printers can be powered by the USB connection. You can try it sometime with the printer not plugged in to the AC power source at all. Under such a power configuration, the motors (not to mention the heating elements) should not operate at all, and I think the firmware has logic to detect this condition and not try to print under it, but I may be mistaken. However, in any case, in the event of an outage during printing, the logic board will remain powered if it's connected by USB, and especially if the outage is short enough, it might not even notice that the motors and heating elements are not functioning, yielding a result like what you saw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2019-07-23T02:25:28.853" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10663" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10638" CreationDate="2019-07-23T14:06:44.753" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Although generating complex shapes by combining primitive OpenSCAD shapes is a well-established tradition, and is often all that is needed, it would be more elegant in this case to generate a pie slice directly using the &lt;code&gt;polygon&lt;/code&gt; function and a list comprehension.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;module pie_slice(r=3.0, a=30) {&#xA;  polygon(points=[&#xA;    [0, 0],&#xA;    for(theta=0; theta&amp;lt;a; theta=theta+$fa)&#xA;      [r*cos(theta), r*sin(theta)],&#xA;    [r*cos(a), r*sin(a)]&#xA;  ]);&#xA;}&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that the above code is a little crude, since it does no error checking, but it works. It uses the &lt;code&gt;$fa&lt;/code&gt; special variable for the step angle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3953" LastActivityDate="2019-07-23T14:06:44.753" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10664" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-07-23T16:41:14.297" Score="3" ViewCount="1041" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here's the thing I want to print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4bgNK.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4bgNK.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The red ring is 3.5&amp;nbsp;mm above the bottom of the orange cylinder. The red ring is 1cm thick. I'd prefer not to use supports because I tend to break as much as I clean up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know this could be done in two pieces but then I'd have to make sure the pieces fit and then glue it in at that's too much. It'd be ideal to print this as one piece. How can I do this with as few supports as possible?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17125" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-07-23T17:51:32.467" LastActivityDate="2019-07-24T13:43:05.787" Title="How can I print a 1 cm overhang with minimal supports?" Tags="|support-structures|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10665" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3728" CreationDate="2019-07-23T17:57:30.367" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know this question is old, but the existing answers are all overly general relative to the question. If someone is in OP's same sitution, the &quot;prints at 210/50&quot; data point pretty much guarantees it's PLA. No subjective &quot;smell tests&quot; or playing with fire needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The comments indicated some doubt that it's PLA due to lack of &quot;sweet&quot; odor, but PLA has very little odor at all, and whether you'd describe it as &quot;sweet&quot; probably varies by individual.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Aside from &quot;PLA&quot; (usually blends of PLA of smallish amounts of proprietary ingredients), there's virtually nothing on the filament market that prints at these temperatures, especially not without adhesion and warping problems. TPU/TPE can also print at these temperatures, but you'd usually know if that's what you had just from the flexibility. These properties of PLA are largely why PLA is so popular.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2019-07-23T17:57:30.367" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10666" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10664" CreationDate="2019-07-23T17:57:50.860" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most slicers have extensive settings to control the layout of the support structures, the distance to the overhanging part, line thickness, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If that doesn't work out for you, you can always change the design to add custom support structures yourself to not having to fiddle with the support settings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2019-07-23T17:57:50.860" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10667" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10664" CreationDate="2019-07-23T19:05:32.300" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can print the support as a separate piece, then when the time is right pause the print, insert the support part into the ring and the resume printing. I guess you might have to use PVA glue on the support to ensure that it comes off easily when the time is right, but I'll leave that experimentation up to you. Note: This is going to be very much trial and error on your part.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12857" LastActivityDate="2019-07-23T19:05:32.300" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10668" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10664" CreationDate="2019-07-23T20:45:05.570" Score="4" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Three ideas&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If either side of the red ring can have a chamfer to meet the cylinder, add the chamfer and print with the chamfer side down.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If both sides of the red ring must be perpendicular to the axis of&#xA;the cylinder, can you print the cylinder lying on its side?  You&#xA;might get good enough print quality, especially if printing with&#xA;thinner layers toward the top.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If that is unsatisfactory, try explicitly adding an inner support&#xA;ring &lt;strong&gt;as part of the model.&lt;/strong&gt; Don't depend on the slicer to do what&#xA;you want, do it yourself.  You would then be bridging to make the&#xA;red disk, but that can work surprisingly well with a good cooling&#xA;fan and printer.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In all three cases, consider the slot holes you have in the red ring.  For case 3 you may need to add a support around those holes as well.  In case 2, they would want to be pointed vertically.  In case 1, the chamfer would be modified to have holes of cavities matching the slot holes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2082" LastActivityDate="2019-07-23T20:45:05.570" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10669" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10675" CreationDate="2019-07-23T21:52:28.887" Score="3" ViewCount="1649" Body="&lt;p&gt;Recently I have been getting some layer shifting starting at layer one. I have had layer shifting at higher layers due to various reasons but mainly for the belts being too loose. But now I am reading that layer shifting can also be caused by belts being too tight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/wiki/Shifted_layers&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;RepRap wiki&lt;/a&gt; page for layer shifting simply gives the mechanical reason for this as &quot;binding&quot;. Can anyone explain what binding means? I thought it meant that the rails were crashing into something but apparently it doesn't. Then I thought it meant that the X and Y axes weren't perfectly perpendicular. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does it mean that the &quot;teeth&quot; of the belts stay &quot;stuck&quot; to the gear for too long when moving in one direction? Why would this happen in one direction and not the other? Because the pulleys/gears are at different heights? Or just because of the belts being tighter? Or one of these reasons?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just trying to understand what its happening so I can debug it for my particular 3D printer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10369" LastActivityDate="2019-07-24T19:22:33.477" Title="What is stepper motor binding? (When belts are too tight)" Tags="|troubleshooting|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10670" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10669" CreationDate="2019-07-23T22:10:48.797" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is the bearings that are binding (dragging), due to lateral forces caused by over-tight belts. It may be the bearings in the stepper motors that are binding, but it is more likely to be the bearings in the idler pulleys.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3953" LastActivityDate="2019-07-23T22:10:48.797" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10672" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10664" CreationDate="2019-07-24T08:14:06.907" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd go for extra supports, raising the entire model half a centimeter above the plane and constructing it completely on top of supports.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That way, the supports will be easy to break off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10616" LastActivityDate="2019-07-24T08:14:06.907" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10673" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-07-24T09:28:07.863" Score="4" ViewCount="8290" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm having a rather strange issue in that the printer pauses randomly during prints. This was first noticed when printing a large and complicated model (from SD). Since then a 20&amp;nbsp;mm  calibration cube has been printed (from USB) with no issues (paused briefly after printing the skirt), it was used in conjunction with &lt;code&gt;M92&lt;/code&gt; G-code command to calibrate the stepper motors. Now i'm trying to print a temperature tower but it pauses multiple times even on the first layer (tried USB and SD). How do i ensure that the printer does not pause during prints?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://leeds365-my.sharepoint.com/:v:/g/personal/el18gs_leeds_ac_uk/EfVqHROjkPJBncS3Zq8M1bsBvaGZbkBThJI0a8hEIgNdyg?e=ArCgsJ&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Here's a link to a video&lt;/a&gt; of the printer pausing (trying to print a temperature tower).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Slicer details:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ultimaker Cura 4.0&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Also tried slic3r 1.3 32 bit &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The temperature tower had a change temperature at Z injected into the G-code but none of the others did.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Printer details:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Anycubic S&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Firmware 1.1.2&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;filament PLA+&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;firmware reprap/marlin&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17124" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-07-24T11:50:40.310" LastActivityDate="2019-07-30T10:21:19.433" Title="Printer keeps pausing during prints" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|troubleshooting|anycubic-i3-mega|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10674" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10669" CreationDate="2019-07-24T12:48:48.293" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Layer shifting basically equates to the machine not being able to get the extruder to the right location at the right time. Therefore when the command to move to location xyz is executed the machine ends up short of that location.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Binding may most likely be as a result of the liner bearings sticking on the rails. Check that the carriage and bed move freely at all points. If you feel a sticking sensation at a particular point then perhaps it's time to clean and lubricate those rails. If however you feel a sticking sensation that occurs at regular intervals, then it could be a broken bearing in either the stepper or the idler.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Failing that, try cutting the print speed in half. It could just be you're pushing the machine to hard. It could also be the drivers overheating and periodically shutting down while printing. If you think that's the reason then see if you can get more cooling air moving over the control board. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12857" LastActivityDate="2019-07-24T12:48:48.293" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10675" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10669" CreationDate="2019-07-24T13:42:52.410" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think the RepRap wiki is using the word &quot;binding&quot;, which translates to &lt;em&gt;&quot;stick together or cause to stick together in a single mass&quot;&lt;/em&gt; (from Google dictionary), to indicate that some sort of friction is experienced (as you experience when things are sticking together).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When there is too much tension in the belt, pulleys and bearings experience a larger radial force stressing the balls of the bearings and pulley shafts. This causes extra friction for the stepper motor to overcome (as the friction force, tangential, is related to the radial force); this means that the stepper has to work harder and can skip steps (for more insight please read below).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While ball bearings are used to &lt;em&gt;reduce&lt;/em&gt; friction (opposed to a bush bearing), each ball has a little friction from a couple of sources according to &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.amroll.com/friction-frequency-factors.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this reference&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The sources of this friction are: slight deformation of the rolling elements and raceways under load, sliding friction of the rolling elements against the cage and guiding surfaces. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These effects are generally captured in a single friction coefficient called &quot;&amp;mu;&quot;. The relation between friction force (tangential) and bearing loading (radial) is written by &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$$P_{friction}=P_{load} \times \mu$$&lt;/span&gt; so the higher the belt tension (&lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$P_{load}$&lt;/span&gt;), the higher the frictional force (&lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$P_{friction}$&lt;/span&gt;), the harder the stepper has to work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-07-24T19:22:33.477" LastActivityDate="2019-07-24T19:22:33.477" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10676" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10664" CreationDate="2019-07-24T13:43:05.787" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Assuming that the red flange needs to be flat on both sides, your best approach for printing in two parts may be a 45 degree conical cut through the flange. This will allow both parts to be printed flat on the bed, and (assuming a low layer height) should give a tolerable overhang result.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4927" LastActivityDate="2019-07-24T13:43:05.787" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10677" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-07-24T16:41:12.393" Score="2" ViewCount="7928" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wPPuZ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;example picture&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd assume insufficient z offset but some areas of the first layer look fine. I've been struggling with this problem despite lots of attempts including z offset, infill overlap, belt retensioning, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyone else experienced this type of issue and have suggestions to fix it properly? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm using polylite PLA and a E3D steel nozzle. 60&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C bed temp, 230&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C first layer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: Print speed is 30&amp;nbsp;mm/s first layer, 60&amp;nbsp;mm/s normal. This issue occurs on the first few layers then the rest get increasingly better, with the final layer being excellent. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit2: Despite lowering the temp to 205--210 and increasing the z offset downwards, the problem persists, though to a lesser degree. Just gaps at ends of infill lines and between straight and circular walls. But seems it only occurs on the lower left and upper right (birds eye view) of the print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TuoML.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit3: The lower left and upper right being further from the nozzle coincides with my removal process using the knife on the lower left and upper right.. Maybe this part of the problem I'll have to bend back in place?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Nozzle bed measurements below:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nrVvj.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit4: Optimizing the Z offset according to the first layer thickness remained only a partial solution especially as my bed unevenness (1mm+) was past the auto-leveling limitations (&amp;lt;0.5mm), but I found a great thread (link below) with a &quot;correct&quot; solution that worked for a lot of people! After I try this I will come back and write about my experience with the solution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://forum.lulzbot.com/viewtopic.php?f=36&amp;amp;t=7904&amp;amp;hilit=bed+leveling+SOLVED&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://forum.lulzbot.com/viewtopic.php?f=36&amp;amp;t=7904&amp;amp;hilit=bed+leveling+SOLVED&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17134" LastEditorUserId="17134" LastEditDate="2019-09-02T20:22:42.890" LastActivityDate="2019-09-03T06:30:03.087" Title="First layer prints too thin causing gaps everywhere" Tags="|print-quality|pla|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10678" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10677" CreationDate="2019-07-24T18:48:43.367" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;From the picture it is clearly seen that the filament is not flattened properly. This implies that your nozzle bed distance is too large. Try decreasing the gap by leveling the bed at temperature and have a piece of &quot;A4&quot; or &quot;Letter&quot; print paper between the nozzle and bed have a little friction when pulled.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also reduce the temperature, 230&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C is too hot for PLA (unless your printer temperature is way off, but that is not very likely), try 200&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another thing that you could check is if the extruded length is exactly what is instructed to be extruded; i.e. &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6483/how-do-i-calibrate-the-extruder-of-my-printer&quot;&gt;calibrate the extruder&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2019-07-24T18:48:43.367" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10680" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10710" CreationDate="2019-07-25T01:21:10.733" Score="3" ViewCount="25183" Body="&lt;p&gt;See the pictures below. I have a severe under extrusion when the printer starts the outer wall, which is resolved by the time it finishes the outer wall. It starts the layer in the same place every time, so it results in this vertical line, on one side of which is fine (where it finishes the layer) and the other side has bad gaps and the wall is much thinner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this picture, the problem is on the outer wall (see red outer line, the print head is moving counter clockwise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CEcrn.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CEcrn.png&quot; alt=&quot;G-Code visualization&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And here is the print showing the issue. Just fine on one side, but terrible on the other, precisely where it starts the layer.  Strangely, this only occurs on the layers with infill. The top layers seem fine (despite starting in the same place).  I have disabled retraction with no effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here you can see it start at the tip and get gradually better as it progresses.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lzzPE.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lzzPE.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here you can see that by the time it finishes, it's just fine, and also what a contrast is between the start and end.  That should be a flush edge, there.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RvFSs.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RvFSs.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another view&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5qkZW.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5qkZW.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there some setting that I should be tweaking?  I've exhausted my own ideas of different tweaks to no avail.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The printer is a Monoprice Maker Select V2.  I'm using Ultimaker Cura 4.1.0.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Material: PLA&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Layer height: 0.24 mm (in the pictures, but replicated with 0.16 mm also)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Temp: 205 °C, here (but tweaking this hasn't had any effect)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Retraction: Disabled&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This doesn't happen on layer changes.  Although it does line up with the Z seam, you can see from the G-code visualization below that the outer wall is the very last thing it does.  The issue occurs at the start of the outer wall (still on the same layer) that it has the issue, but by the time it ends the wall (just before switching layers) it is fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've tweaked a few other settings, one by one, and seeing if any have any effect.  So far, not really:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Outer Wall Wipe: 0.2 (default), 0.8, 0.0&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Jerk Control - Wall Jerk max velocity change, 5 mm/s&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Outer Wall before inner (Yes instead of No)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wall Line Count (3 instead of 2): This improves it some, but I suspect just by making it a little more difficult to see&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;What have I done since...&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I reset all settings in Cura to a default &amp;quot;Draft&amp;quot; setting and then set layer height to 0.24 mm, and turned off Infill. Then I have tried prints with different settings for &amp;quot;Retract Before Outer Wall&amp;quot; and printing temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are those results:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These pics seem to suggest a very clear lag in extrusion.  1 and 2 are different temps.  2 and 3 are different retraction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;205 °C, 0 % Infill, Retract Before Outer Wall: Off&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fX7K1.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fX7K1.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;205 Celsius, 0 Infill, Retract Before Outer Wall: Off&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;195 °C, 0 % Infill, Retract Before Outer Wall: Off&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dDMOa.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dDMOa.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;195 Celsius, 0 Infill, Retract Before Outer Wall: Off&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;195 °C, 0 % Infill, Retract Before Outer Wall: On&#xA;Note: the retraction setting resulted in a noticeable pause before printing the outer wall. Retraction distance is 6.5 mm, and this is not a Bowden fed device.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DUyRn.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DUyRn.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;195 Celsius, 0 Infill, Retract Before Outer Wall: On&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There doesn't seem to be anything strange about the G-code, either.  Here are the &lt;code&gt;G0&lt;/code&gt; travels just before the outer wall followed by the wall.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;...&#xA;G0 F7200 X106.319 Y93.413&#xA;G0 X106.26 Y93.909&#xA;G0 X107.213 Y93.658&#xA;G0 X107.8 Y92.542&#xA;G0 X107.286 Y90.844&#xA;G0 X107.509 Y90.394&#xA;&#xA;; (outer wall of outside)&#xA;G1 F1328 X107.985 Y90.707 E116.98713&#xA;G1 X108.38 Y91.128 E117.01098&#xA;G1 X108.658 Y91.623 E117.03444&#xA;G1 X108.813 Y92.18 E117.05833&#xA;G1 X108.832 Y92.751 E117.08193&#xA;G1 X108.713 Y93.315 E117.10575&#xA;G1 X108.463 Y93.837 E117.12966&#xA;; (first curve complete, on to straightaway)&#xA;G1 X99.631 Y107.716 E117.80936&#xA;G1 X98.912 Y108.59 E117.85612&#xA;...&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Even more done...&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These are retraction off, and 205 °C&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I set the &amp;quot;print speed&amp;quot; in Cura to 20 mm/s (normally 60 mm/s), the outer wall speed is reduced from 30 mm/s to 10 mm/s. The result is quite good.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MUGcj.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MUGcj.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I leave the &amp;quot;print speed&amp;quot; at 60 mm/s and adjust only the outer wall to 10 mm/s, it's still quite good.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/m07QN.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/m07QN.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So it seems like an acceleration thing.  If I can figure out how to get it to slow down in just the right spots or compensate in some way, then perhaps I can make this problem go away with minimal sacrifice in total speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12436" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-02-06T11:18:38.593" LastActivityDate="2023-03-21T23:06:29.273" Title="Under extrusion when starting outer wall" Tags="|print-quality|" AnswerCount="8" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10681" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12197" CreationDate="2019-07-25T02:54:18.877" Score="1" ViewCount="1966" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 3D printer hooked up with Fusion 360. I have a 3D drawing in Revit. What format should I export to in order get from Revit to Fusion 360?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17137" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2020-03-18T10:54:48.010" LastActivityDate="2020-03-18T10:54:48.010" Title="Export Revit file for Fusion 360 3D Print" Tags="|fusion360|autodesk|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10682" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-07-25T04:21:51.177" Score="0" ViewCount="105" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am building an FDM machine on my own. I am not using any commercial software. So I have a lot of questions regarding the right parameters to choose. I am having 0.5&amp;nbsp;mm diameter nozzle. What are the parameters that I am supposed to choose? The general parameters that I need to know are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Extruder head speed (mm/s) &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Layer thickness (mm.) &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Road width (mm) &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Filament feed rate (mm/s)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17138" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-07-26T06:07:41.757" LastActivityDate="2019-07-26T06:07:41.757" Title="Please suggest parameters for 0.5 mm diameter nozzle" Tags="|fdm|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ClosedDate="2019-07-30T13:49:51.787" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10683" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10685" CreationDate="2019-07-25T08:46:26.333" Score="21" ViewCount="36268" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm printing on an Ender 5 with the default flex/magnetic build surface.&#xA;I read that PLA and PETG may sometimes be printed without any bed heating at all and also that bed heating is the main contributor to the power consumption of a printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As I do see that bed heating definitely helps with the first layer adhesion I did not want to turn it off completely, but I did start experimenting with turning off bed heating after all solid bottom layers have printed (using the ChangeAtZ script in Cura) and so far I haven't seen any negative effects, especially no warping (I am usually printing with a brim or raft; I think that might also help in that regard).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Am I missing something? Why is &lt;em&gt;anyone&lt;/em&gt; keeping the bed heated for an entire print?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16962" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2019-11-18T11:48:28.663" LastActivityDate="2023-06-19T14:47:13.313" Title="Why keep the bed heated after initial layer(s) with PLA (or PETG)?" Tags="|pla|heated-bed|petg|creality-ender-5|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10684" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10683" CreationDate="2019-07-25T09:02:40.440" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;All the valid points of bed shrinking and dislocating your parts when cooling from the other answer aside there is also the added complexities both in testing reliability of such a thing that may or may not be applicable to all materials.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The added complexity to the slicers to figure out when it is safe to turn off the bed which I would imagine depends on part footprint. I also sometimes print several parts sequentially in the same job so then it would need to know that and time the bed heating correctly or pause and wait for bed between parts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would also categorize printer power use as trivial (order of three 60W lightbulbs), but considering millions of machines worldwide economics of scale does kick in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14957" LastEditorUserId="14957" LastEditDate="2019-07-25T21:17:23.367" LastActivityDate="2019-07-25T21:17:23.367" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10685" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10683" CreationDate="2019-07-25T10:51:02.710" Score="22" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are three reasons (I can think of):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;A large problem you'd face with allowing the bed to cool after first layer is you stand the chance of losing adhesion after it cools. When you heat the bed, it expands somewhat. When it cools it contracts. It has been known for parts to actually pop off the bed if left on there to cool (after a print). If you allow the bed to cool fully, you could ruin a print due to it losing the adhesion, popping off the bed, then the printer keeps on going. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;When you're dealing with 0.1&amp;nbsp;mm layer height, that's not a lot of wiggle room. When you level your bed before printing, it should be done after everything is heated. If you were to turn off the bed after you start printing, you could very easily shift the bed enough to take up the worth of an entire layer, which means your print has adjusted and will then have major imperfections. This isn't a &lt;em&gt;given&lt;/em&gt;, but definitely a concern ... especially for larger or taller prints.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Whether PLA or PETG, the extruded filament needs to have heat in order to stay. This is not only heat in the extruder, but heat in the print itself. If the print cools off, this could affect subsequent adhesion for the filament getting laid down. If you turn the bed heater off after print start, you'll lose that heated environment. The print will cool off and you'll start seeing variations in the print, which, if the print is large enough, would most likely be more noticable. Think of it as a heated environment, not just putting piling host plastic on top of each other.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There may be other reasons, but I believe these are &lt;em&gt;very good&lt;/em&gt; reasons not to turn your bed off after print start. If you are worried your power supply isn't providing enough power, then get a bigger power supply. If you're worried about power consumption overall, once the bed is heated, consumption goes way down (as @r_ahlskog stated in their answer). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11242" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-07-25T21:22:44.163" LastActivityDate="2019-07-25T21:22:44.163" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10686" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-07-25T11:48:40.157" Score="1" ViewCount="279" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm using a Tronxy Ultrabot (looks very similar to Anycubic Photon) and I'm still on my first prints.&#xA;Things that happened thus far: many failed prints that stuck to the resin tank, one which I had to carefully scoop off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I'm finding odd is that this sheet (for lack of a better term) only seems to happen on one half of the whole thing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm suspecting the FEP film is the culprit here, due to earlier failures. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What else could be causing this error?&#xA;Other info that might be important, the model is using 6 layer, 60s cure time for base; 0.04mm layer size, 10s layer cure time, 1s delay between layers. The resin is &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.aliexpress.com/item/33025328151.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Suen Ching&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit 2: &lt;a href=&quot;https://srv-file2.gofile.io/download/Tekehz/UltraBot%20User%20Manual.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Here's the manual&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cOd9J.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17141" LastEditorUserId="17141" LastEditDate="2019-07-26T00:20:25.437" LastActivityDate="2020-01-29T14:42:44.127" Title="Square sheet in middle layers" Tags="|sla|dlp|resin|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10687" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10682" CreationDate="2019-07-25T12:02:46.453" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;These parameters are not fixed. FDM printers are designed to work over a range speeds, feed rates, layer heights, extrusion temperatures, etc, depending on the type of print job and the filament type used. If you design a printer to work with fixed parameters, you are unlikely to get good results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3953" LastActivityDate="2019-07-25T12:02:46.453" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10688" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10683" CreationDate="2019-07-25T13:11:23.510" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;PETG requires a heated bed otherwise it will shrink, detach from the platform and begin curling at the edges. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PLA, however in some situations does not require a heated build platform. It depends on the build surface. Some surfaces need to be hot to work, and some do not. Keeping it on helps stop the part from cooling too quickly as well. However with the correct first layer height, this tends to be less of an issue. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've had PLA parts stick so well to a PVA coated glass bed, that picking it up also lifted the printer. Once the bed cools on PET-G however, it practically detaches from the bed itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12857" LastActivityDate="2019-07-25T13:11:23.510" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10689" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10680" CreationDate="2019-07-25T13:14:45.657" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The problem seems to occur in the same area; along the z axis. You also seem to have an elephant's foot from the first layer being squashed. Change the flow rate in the slicer. Re tram (level) the bed and clean your nozzle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12857" LastActivityDate="2019-07-25T13:14:45.657" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10690" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10691" CreationDate="2019-07-25T18:04:30.363" Score="1" ViewCount="177" Body="&lt;p&gt;I attempted upgrading my Ender 3 firmware to Marlin 1.1.9, and due to inability to find the directions about the Sanguino variant pin layout file, stupidly built with the &quot;standard&quot; (Arduino) file. Various stuff didn't work, and I figured out my mistake and rebuilt, but the extruder motor does not respond even after flashing back to the original firmware.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Did I destroy the stepper driver with incorrect pin mapping? (Aside: if so, why just the extruder and not the others?) Is this fixable or should I just order a new motherboard?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2019-07-25T19:26:11.510" Title="Botched firmware upgrade - did I destroy the stepper drivers?" Tags="|marlin|creality-ender-3|firmware|stepper-driver|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10691" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10690" CreationDate="2019-07-25T19:26:11.510" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;About 15 minutes after posting this, it started working again. Either the driver had badly overheated and recovered after cooling down, or was never messed up and the firmware was just refusing to operate it with the nozzle cold. For the latter possibility, the stock firmware never had that behavior before, but maybe it's possible that some saved configuration to ignore nozzle-cold got lost in the flashing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2019-07-25T19:26:11.510" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10692" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10680" CreationDate="2019-07-25T22:29:15.580" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As @user77232 points out, you may have a general flow rate issue which can be adjusted in your slicer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, it looks like your machine might be retracting during some of the center layers. Notice the first few layers extrude relatively normal, then it under extrudes, then it goes back to relatively normal a few layers before a ceiling. Also note that the under extrusion seems to stop exactly where the z-step occurs (see the z-step seam).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://community.ultimaker.com/topic/22506-under-extrusion-only-on-corners/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;This link&lt;/a&gt; shows that it's possible it could be your retraction settings before each layer. I'm not sure what it is with Cura, but in MakerWare and older slicers you could specify a retract distance before each layer. I would try reducing this. Also, these older slicers had different retract rates/distances for bases, floors, main wall, supports, bridges, top layers and more. So, this could be why you have different results throughout Z in your part.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="98" LastActivityDate="2019-07-25T22:29:15.580" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10693" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10583" CreationDate="2019-07-26T00:47:32.277" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cura has an additional setting that you can make visible called &quot;Lift Head&quot;. My recommendation is that you do the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Set your minimum print speed to something actually reasonable like 30mm/s or higher. Printing too slowly negates the following two settings and is not beneficial to printing small features.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Set your minimum layer time to something higher, like 15s or so. The slower you print, the higher this number needs to be. Using too small of a minimum print time prevents adequate layer cooling.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Enable &quot;Lift Head&quot;. This must be used to allow the small features on your print to properly cool. Without the &quot;Lift Head&quot; setting, your nozzle will remain parked on your print and provide both radiant and convective heat which prevents cooling and causes sagging of small features.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The combination of these settings will rapidly deposit the layer, then move the nozzle high and away from the print until the minimum layer time is reached, such that the radiant heat from the nozzle doesn't continue to heat the soft PLA while it's trying to cool. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Enabling all three is how I got perfect tiny features on all of the printers here at my office - a fleabay i3 clone, an Anet A8, and a couple Monoprice printers of various levels. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Edit:&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I forgot to mention, keep your bed temperature at a reasonable setting too. For PLA, normally people may recommend up to 70C, but realistically, for very small prints, you can keep your bed much colder without detrimental effects. For tiny items, my PLA prints used to use a bed temperature of about 30-40 C depending on the specific filament. Very tiny prints are unlikely to warp even with a cold bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically, the colder the bed is, the less heat is getting conducted up through the print to the top layers that are molten, and the faster those layers cool. Keep the bed temp down and it'll benefit your layer cooling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16621" LastEditorUserId="16621" LastEditDate="2019-07-26T00:53:25.097" LastActivityDate="2019-07-26T00:53:25.097" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10694" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4014" CreationDate="2019-07-26T02:26:44.190" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I’ve recently had a need to use Z-probe touch &#xA;plate on my MPCNC + Ramps 1.4 + Marlin 1.1.5 setup.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thought I’d share what ended up working for me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In Marlin &lt;code&gt;Configuration.h&lt;/code&gt;, I made the changes to enable Z-probe:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#define USE_ZMIN_PLUG&#xA;#define Z_MIN_ENDSTOP_INVERTING     true&#xA;#define Z_MIN_PROBE_ENDSTOP_INVERTING   true&#xA;#define FIX_MOUNTED_PROBE&#xA;#define PROBE_DOUBLE_TOUCH&#xA;#define Z_MIN_POS -100&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, the following might be the key to your issue.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;code&gt;G30&lt;/code&gt; did not do anything for me as well, until I changed &#xA;these values to 0.  The &lt;code&gt;G30&lt;/code&gt; now lowers Z until the Z probe &#xA;is triggered. I needed to send a &lt;code&gt;G92&lt;/code&gt; to set the new Z value.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Works like a champ!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#define X_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER 0&#xA;#define Y_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER 0&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In case you’re interested, in ultralcd.cpp under &#xA;lcd_prepare_menu(), I added the a menu item to perform &#xA;the probe.  This way I don’t need a computer to setup &#xA;the machine and launch a gcode file from the sd card. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;  #if HAS_BED_PROBE&#xA;        MENU_ITEM(gcode, MSG_PROBE_Z, PSTR(&quot;G30\nG92 Z19.05&quot;));&#xA;  #endif&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this is helpful for you, even after a couple years late.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17149" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-07-26T06:32:53.187" LastActivityDate="2019-07-26T06:32:53.187" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10695" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10979" CreationDate="2019-07-26T09:06:57.497" Score="1" ViewCount="390" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to verify the correct hotend heater for a Reprap x400 Pro V3.  I know a 12&amp;nbsp;V 40&amp;nbsp;W doesn't work.  A working heater measures 4.4&amp;nbsp;&amp;ohm;, so I'm guessing it is a 12&amp;nbsp;V 30&amp;nbsp;W heater.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I tried replacing a non-functioning hotend heater on a German Reprap X400 V3 with a new 12V 40W heater that heater also wouldn't heat.  My guess is the circuitry shut off due to overcurrent.  The thermistor temperature didn't change from room temperature, and the heater was not hot to the touch.  Afterward, I plugged in the heater measuring 4.4&amp;nbsp;&amp;ohm; and it worked.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The 100k sensors worked properly. A functioning heater resistance measured 4.4&amp;nbsp;&amp;ohm;. The non-functioning heater measured 3.6&amp;nbsp;&amp;ohm;. The new 12&amp;nbsp;V 40&amp;nbsp;W heater measured 2.6&amp;nbsp;&amp;ohm;. Apparently, this model Reprap won't apply power to the heater if the resistance is wrong. I'm assuming this model needs a 12&amp;nbsp;V 30&amp;nbsp;W heater, but am trying to confirm this since I can't find a parts bill of material for this model. Used the following equation to estimate heater resistance (voltage^2)/power = resistance. This gives 4.8&amp;nbsp;&amp;ohm; for 12&amp;nbsp;V 30&amp;nbsp;W and 3.6&amp;nbsp;&amp;ohm; for 12&amp;nbsp;V 40&amp;nbsp;W.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15075" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2019-09-06T21:30:39.823" LastActivityDate="2019-09-06T21:30:39.823" Title="Proper hotend heater for Reprap x400 Pro V3" Tags="|diy-3d-printer|hotend|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10696" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-07-26T11:02:37.447" Score="1" ViewCount="51" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been using my MK3 for about a year with no problems, but a couple of weeks ago I started to have the following issue: the printing head loses its first layer height calibration, apparently for no reason. Sometimes it goes higher and the plastic line gets loose from the plate and sometimes it goes down, scratching the plate. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I already calibrated the first layer several times, it works for a while and then goes bad again. Today I calibrated the first layer twice, proceeded the PINDA calibration as well, flashed the new release, and nothing: my MK3 is no longer printing right. There must be a faulty part, possibly the PINDA sensor or something else. Once the first layer is done, the rest of the piece goes right, that is why I suspect that the PINDA sensor is failing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could you please, give me any clue on how to overcome the problem? Also, could you list the possible faulty parts so I can order them? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17153" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-07-26T11:51:08.097" LastActivityDate="2019-07-26T11:51:08.097" Title="first layer unstable" Tags="|calibration|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10697" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3414" CreationDate="2019-07-26T11:09:32.080" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;This question is practically unanswerable without the load case or the part being known.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Input for the &quot;strongest&quot; part is depending on:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Load case (compression, tension, shear)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Part design&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;# of perimeters&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Filament type&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Infill percentage (incl. local increased infill for e.g. fasteners; see e.g. &lt;a href=&quot;/q/6522&quot;&gt;&quot;Different infill in the same part&quot;&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Part orientation when slicing&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;etc.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do note that 100 % infill does not guarantee the strongest solution, from &lt;a href=&quot;https://community.ultimaker.com/topic/19727-100-infill-settings/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;ahoeben&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Final note: 100% infill is not always the strongest or best quality. If you overextrude by just a little bit, that will quickly add up with 100% infill. With a lower % of infill, the overextruded material has somewhere to go. &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;There can also be issues with cooling with high amounts of infill; you are not only putting more material on the print, but also more heat. On the other hand printing a layer is going to take a long time, so there should be time to cool. But shrinking/warping while cooling is also something that is affected by the amount of material.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2019-07-26T11:09:32.080" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10698" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3406" CreationDate="2019-07-26T11:25:54.503" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;An alternative to chamfering the connector is buying a different type of connectors with a larger bore hole all the way through the connector and let the tube pass all the way through. These are used in my similar spool to extruder setup (reversed Bowden setup in OP's terminology).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cZi6Z.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Large hole pneumatic tube connector&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cZi6Z.png&quot; alt=&quot;Large hole pneumatic tube connector&quot; title=&quot;Large hole pneumatic tube connector&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2019-07-26T11:25:54.503" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10699" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3394" CreationDate="2019-07-26T11:44:04.577" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;A colleague of me puts spring steel wires in the tubes and leaves the tubes on the central heating for a certain amount of time (probably hotter than 60&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2019-07-26T11:44:04.577" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10700" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3314" CreationDate="2019-07-26T13:53:44.563" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;You answered your own question in a comment.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Yes, of course, increasing the maximum supplied current to the motor gets rid of the issue. Still, I'd rather go with lower current to limit heating up the motors. I was just wondering if there is something in the two slicing engines that makes cura provoke much harsher movements that cause the printer to lose steps... – kamuro May 21 '17 at 21:22&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Motors are tough&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Motors are meant to be warm, some are made to be hot.  Not all motors have the same specs, but I pulled one on Amazon (&lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B07T3H4V3Y&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;link&lt;/a&gt;) which shows a rated temperature rise of 60°C above a rated ambient temperature of 50°C.  If these specifications stack, and they should because the insulation of the motor is rated to 130°C, you can boil water on the stepper motors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;But ... other factors&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But, what are the real limits, and how much current should you run through the motors?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, many 3D printers have plastic mounts for the stepper motors.  You don't want that plastic to soften.  It can if the motors get too hot.  I've seen it in a commercial 2D printer, and gnashing of teeth across the Pacific ensued.  Even for PLA, that temperature is uncomfortable to human flesh.  I soften PLA at 75°C when fitting tight parts, but PETG and ABS are good for higher temperatures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Low current hurts accuracy&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Motors are remarkably linear converters of current to torque, but they still have non-linearities at the limits.  This matters most when micro-stepping, which (AFAIK) all 3D printers use for higher resolution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Two factors hurt accuracy at lower currents when micro-stepping.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Non-linearities in the drivers result in magnetic fields that do not linearly align with the commanded drive strength.  The torque is not exactly what is needed to position the motor between the poles at the correct angle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Static friction, sometimes called stiction, requires additional torque to overcome.  In a slow micro-stepping move, this will result in the motion hanging back, then jumping ahead.  Motion can be ragged rather than smooth.  Extrusion can be pulsating rather than smooth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both are improved by applying enough current to the motor to generate enough torque.  More current gives more heat, but also better behavior and performance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Power up the motors!&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They can take it.  Check their mounts to be sure the mounts aren't underdesigned.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Why Cura and not Slic3r?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A deeply detailed review of the g-code would be needed.  It could be as simple as the direction of infill, or the preferred direction of your model compared with the direction chosen by the two slicers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It could be some limits coded into the &quot;custom g-code&quot; portion of the two slicers.  I am not familiar with Cura, but Slic3r allows you to insert additional g-code under many situations.  Something brought in with a printer profile may be limiting acceleration of jerk.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could be differences in fan setting, or almost anything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you are dealing with a marginal situation, and it sounds like this is right on the edge, very small differences can cause dramatic changes in how the whole system responds.  3D printers are complex systems, with resonances, many vibration modes, non-linear friction.  Knowing for sure may be beyond the scope of your and our engineering tools.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Don't operate on the Margins&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Set the motors to the proper current levels.  Set the bed to the proper height.  Set the hot end to the right temperature.  Try to always stay in the sweet spot.  Your prints will reward you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2082" LastActivityDate="2019-07-26T13:53:44.563" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10701" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-07-26T15:19:12.227" Score="4" ViewCount="6853" Body="&lt;p&gt;My local library has a 3D printer (Lulzbot Mini) for patrons to use. The prints are limited to 4 hours and if I go after work I really only have two hours before the Library closes. The software at the Library will give an estimated time, but I would like to be able to estimate the time before I get there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Currently I have been creating my designs in TinkerCad and then I export the STL file. From the STL file I can find online estimators that will tell me how much material but nothing that says how long it will take to print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a way of calculating the estimated printing time from a STL file for a given printer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17154" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-08-10T04:30:47.353" LastActivityDate="2019-08-10T04:30:47.353" Title="How to estimate the printing time of a 3D printer from an STL file?" Tags="|stl|lulzbot|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10702" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10701" CreationDate="2019-07-26T15:33:26.443" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is no way to estimate the print time of an STL file directly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The print time is based on the number of instructions in the g-code file plus the time it takes to move the effector (the hot end) around the build area. The only way to compute that is to know what settings their slicer is using and then slice your stl the way they will; and this is assuming that you have the same slicer software. If you manage to do that, then the slicer software will give you an estimate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is what you would need to do:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Get access to the same slicing software, and obtain a copy of&#xA;the profile that they use to slice with. The nozzle diameter, feed&#xA;rate, layer height, and infill settings will affect the print time.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Import your stl into the sofware and &quot;slice it&quot; There will usually be a large button that is used to generate the g-code. There are quite a few slicers that will output the print time into the text of the g-code. They may also show the print time on the UI during slicing.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;alternatively: Email the stl to the staff at the library, and them to generate an estimate for you. They might just do it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, that estimate could be incorrect. It will depend on the printer itself. As an example: the time it takes to heat the bed and the hot end is never included in the time estimate the slicer gives.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12857" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-07-26T16:38:38.647" LastActivityDate="2019-07-26T16:38:38.647" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10703" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-07-26T19:48:51.463" Score="2" ViewCount="1656" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a new Ender 3, it was printing fine using the Ultimaker Cura 4.1 slicer. I printed about 1/2 a roll of blue 1.75&amp;nbsp;mm filament through a 0.4&amp;nbsp;mm nozzle. All my prints were Ender 3 mods (plus one cover for a device I had). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then it stopped printing 1/2 way through printing a bracket for the Y-axis to allow for a damper.&#xA;After several days of under extruded parts that I aborted I discovered that the extruder motor was stopping intermittently and that turned out to be a bind in the motor. I replaced the motor, but it continued to under extrude. I replaced the stock extruder feed with Anpro Upgrade, MK8 Extruder Aluminum Alloy Block Bowden Extruder 1.75&amp;nbsp;mm Filament for Creality 3D. The same problem remained. &#xA;I did the extruder test with 120&amp;nbsp;mm marked on the filament and only about 60&amp;nbsp;mm went through. &#xA;By increasing the flow to 150&amp;nbsp;% I can print usable parts, but that seems like a bandaid covering up the real problem. Of course, I have cleaned the hotend, changed the nozzle and the feed tube.&#xA;I have assumed that during the feed test of 100&amp;nbsp;mm you should preheat the nozzle before the gcode &lt;code&gt;G1 E100 F100&lt;/code&gt; ; Extrude 100&amp;nbsp;mm at 100&amp;nbsp;mm a minute is issued.&#xA;Is there any point in removing the nozzle or the feed tube and issuing this 100&amp;nbsp;mm/100&amp;nbsp;mm command?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have ordered a new hot end, but I'm beginning to suspect the board itself is not feeding correctly. Help?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I removed the Bowden tube from the hot end and issued the 'G1 E100 F100` and it feeds exactly 40&amp;nbsp;mm. Do I possibly have a second bad motor? I currently have no way of modifying the code on the board. Is there a factory reset for the Ender 3?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17157" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-07-27T08:35:46.647" LastActivityDate="2019-07-27T17:01:17.983" Title="Ender 3 under extrusion" Tags="|creality-ender-3|underextrusion|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10704" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-07-27T03:16:36.177" Score="1" ViewCount="58" Body="&lt;p&gt;In FDM process, what is the relationship between air gap and raster width? are they depended on each other or are they going to get influenced by the nozzle diameter?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17138" LastActivityDate="2019-07-27T03:16:36.177" Title="how air gap and raster width are related to each other in FDM process?" Tags="|fdm|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2019-07-30T13:51:33.533" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10705" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10680" CreationDate="2019-07-27T08:55:00.593" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;From the sliced image you it appears as if long travels are present. High temperature (205&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C is on the upper side for PLA) slow travel moves and long moved allows filament to leak out into the infill region. Once it reaches the outer perimeter, there is not enough of liquid filament available and it will start under extruded. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lower temperature with 5&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C increments (down to 195&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C) and increase travel speed with increments of 10&amp;nbsp;mm/s.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2019-07-27T08:55:00.593" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10707" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10703" CreationDate="2019-07-27T17:01:17.983" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;OK, I have my Ender 3 back to printing nice looking objects. It turns out at some point since the original bad E-stepper I must have pushed the &quot;load settings&quot; menu item. I set my E steps to 98 from 93. and then did a &quot;save settings&quot;. I have no idea why going from 93 to 98.03 increased my extrusion from 40mm to 100mm (trial and error, because the formula said I needed to go to 232.5!).&#xA;For those that don't know, the &quot;save settings&quot; stores the current settings in EEPROM. These setting override the factory configuration setting when you reboot. If while you are messing with setting and you lose track of things you can do a &quot;load settings&quot; to get your previous settings back to start again. The &quot;initialize EEPROM&quot; reloads the stored configuration settings including the settings that you saved. &#xA;More intelligent explanation here:&#xA;&lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/ckP2-GrMHvA?start=0&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17157" LastActivityDate="2019-07-27T17:01:17.983" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10708" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7037" CreationDate="2019-07-27T21:38:34.697" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;About a decade ago, we looked at the 'Gyroid infill structure' (which we called sheet solid). We looked at it as a linear-elastic solid and as possible bone scaffold design:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S0142961211006776&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S0142961211006776&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What came out of that study that lots of the triply-periodic minimal surfaces (a broader class of structures that comprise the Gyroid) had interesting elastic moduli. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One thing that's worth noting though is that the Gyroid is not isotropic. Rather, it has cubic symmetry, ie 3 rather than 2 linear elastic constants. But it comes fairly close to isotropic&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17165" LastActivityDate="2019-07-27T21:38:34.697" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10709" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-07-28T05:41:49.780" Score="3" ViewCount="645" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm making a Circuit etching machine (CNC) and I need a good DC motor and drill bit for the spindle. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My machine should be able to &lt;strong&gt;etch&lt;/strong&gt;, &lt;strong&gt;drill&lt;/strong&gt;, and &lt;strong&gt;cut&lt;/strong&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Etching&lt;/strong&gt;: take copper off the surface like chemicals or a laser would&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Drilling&lt;/strong&gt;: drill holes for THT (through-hole) components and possibly 2-sided boards&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Cutting&lt;/strong&gt;: cut out a piece of the board (cutting a big piece in half or cut a circle out of a big piece)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd like to have 1 drill bit work with all 3 functions if possible. Having to switch out different bits is OK but a single bit is prefered.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What sort of specifications should my spindle DC motor (rpm, voltage/amperage rating, ...) and drill bit (material, size, angle, ...) have? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17054" LastEditorUserId="17054" LastEditDate="2019-07-31T01:52:35.967" LastActivityDate="2019-08-30T10:14:04.207" Title="Spindle DC motor and drill bit specifications for Circuit etching CNC machine" Tags="|motor|cnc|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10710" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10680" CreationDate="2019-07-29T01:34:12.787" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Based on other comments, answers, and question edits so far, in addition to your original question, I believe there are possibly two things going on here: incorrect retraction settings, including a misunderstanding of which settings are relevant and what they do, and issues related to slow acceleration. Both relate to misdepositing/loss of material.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, some basics. When the filament is advanced to the point needed to extrude material and print at the intended volumetric rate, it's under significant pressure, compressed between the extruder gear and the nozzle. My understanding is that your printer has a direct drive extruder, not a bowden, so there's far less compression than with a bowden setup but it's still there. This means that, if you try to stop extruding, it's material will continue to come out of the nozzle, just at a decreasing rate, until the pressure dissipates. This effect is reduced but still present if the nozzle is held-against/moving-over already printed material, and heavy if moving over empty space, even moreso if moving across sparsely-filled space like infill where it will bond with the already-deposited material and get &quot;stretched&quot;/&quot;pulled&quot; out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The idea of retraction is to pull the filament back when the print head is moving to a new location without trying to deposit material, to relieve this pressure and prevent unwanted misdepositing/loss of material, and to reverse the process, putting the filament back exactly where it was when the last printed line ended, the next time it starts trying to deposit material.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The relevant options in Cura are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Enable Retraction - must be on&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Retraction Distance - should be at least 5-6 mm for bowden setups, probably more like 0.5-2 mm for direct drive.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Retraction Minimum Travel - should be 0&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Combing Mode - try different settings. Off is probably the best relative to your issues, but hurts your print time a lot for certain models, and can hurt quality in other ways.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Everything else related to retraction is fairly irrelevant, especially &quot;Retract at Layer Change&quot; is a niche option and not typically useful. As I understand it, turning just &quot;Retract at Layer Change&quot; on does not mean retraction is on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, your other issue may be acceleration. Extrusion works best as acceleration speed approaches infinity, because the extrusion rate and pressure needed to extrude will be fairly constant for the entire line/curve. If acceleration is very slow, pressure will be wrong during the start and end of lines. It's likely that, due to high pressure, excess material will get deposited at the end of one line while slowing down, then after moving to start the next line, even if you retract the filament, you'll have insufficient pressure at the nozzle after reversing the retraction to start the next line.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A jerk limit of 5 mm/s is really low. I'm used to more like 20-30 mm/s. You don't say what your acceleration limit is, but it's probably also low. Slow acceleration has minimal impact if your max speed is slow, because you quickly reach the max speed and most of the print speed (and thus extrusion rate) is steady. But if you want to print at high speeds, you need high acceleration. Try and see if you can increase it. Or accept printing at slow speeds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another option, if you're open to hacking on your printer, is replacing the stock firmware with a recent version of Marlin with the &lt;a href=&quot;http://marlinfw.org/docs/features/lin_advance.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Linear Advance&lt;/a&gt; feature. It does the math to model the filament pressure as a spring, with a spring constant you can tweak, so that it can compensate for varying print speed and end lines with approximately no pressure remaining.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2019-07-29T01:34:12.787" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10711" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10709" CreationDate="2019-07-29T02:51:25.457" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are several sources of PCB &quot;etching&quot; bits.  They tend to be single straight flutes and high angle, very pointy bits.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the motor, high speed is good.  Look for 30k+ RPM.  The main thing to be concerned about is the amount of runout, or wobble in the tip.  With a tiny tip, you can't afford much runout at all.  It will broaden the gap you are cutting and put stress on the bit, probably snapping it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The key to low runout is very careful alignment of the chuck that holds the tip with the shaft of the motor, and a collet chuck to hold the tool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The power needs aren't high since the speed is high and the cuts are light.  I would think that a 250 watt motor should be way more than sufficient.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The question now asks for drilling and routing, which should work better with the high-speed spindle.  30k is better for the tiny drills than a much slower spindle.  These are hurt by run out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Usually the drill bits are made of carbide.  For cutting, carbide router or file bits are used.  All drill-bits and router bits and copper cutting bits I have seen for sale have 1/8&quot; or 3mm shank.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2082" LastEditorUserId="2082" LastEditDate="2019-07-30T03:34:14.753" LastActivityDate="2019-07-30T03:34:14.753" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10712" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-07-29T05:32:13.097" Score="2" ViewCount="7550" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to build a 3D printer with a heating chamber of around 90 °C with build area 200x200x200 mm. I have never build a CoreXY system, so my design is currently an XY system with moving X motor (mounted on Y). Since it has a heating chamber I can't use normal stepper motor (there's a way, but I have to provide forced air cooling like NASA did, or water cooling). Extruder is Bowden type. I have already sourced almost all components, but I'm stuck at choosing the motor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I could find high temperature stepper motor in India (that's where I'm from), but it cost too much. I &lt;a href=&quot;https://visionminer.com/products/high-temp-motorx-extruder?_pos=1&amp;amp;_sid=7b5e5e603&amp;amp;_ss=r&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;found one at the Visionminer website&lt;/a&gt;, they're the dealers for Intamsys printers, which has a chamber of 90 °C and they are providing replacement stepper motors as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Comparing the cost, the motor I found in India costs three times as above. Even with shipping I will save a lot. But one issue is they're not providing any details about torque and current rating. There's one image in the website and it says,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;MOONS STEPPING MOTOR&#xA;TYPE 17HDB001-11N&#xA;60904162 18/04/12&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I thought it might be a MOONS motor, so I contacted them, no reply so far. I tried to find the motor by part number, but failed. I tried mailing Visionminer as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyone have any idea which motor is this or know any high temperature motors?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also they use Gates belts, which is rated for 85 °C. How reliable will it be in 90 °C chamber?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I will heat the chamber using a external heater with fan.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My extruder is Bowden, same as you've shown E3D V6, with updated high temp parts. Plated Cu heater block + Nozzle, High temp heating coil and Thermocouple.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But In my design X axis motor is moving one. I mean it's mounted on Y Similar to this &lt;a href=&quot;https://drive.google.com/open?id=1g-pOCmL_2Vm1df78jYKZNPT7aMvoe8Ke&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;image&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BJ3qe.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;X axis stepper mounted on Y axis&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BJ3qe.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;X axis stepper mounted on Y axis&quot; title=&quot;X axis stepper mounted on Y axis&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So it will be inside the chamber and I have to cool it somehow or looks for high temp motor&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I'm trying to print is PEEK, and it requires around 80-90 Degree chamber, and most stepper motors are rated for an ambient temperature of 50 Degrees. And I'm really planning to seal the chamber using SS sheet. It's going to be something like &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.intamsys.com/funmat-ht-3d-printer/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Intamsys funmat HT&lt;/a&gt;. What is the biggest print, I mean duration that you run your printer at 60 Degrees?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10670" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2021-09-26T06:10:27.623" LastActivityDate="2021-09-26T06:21:52.117" Title="What stepper motor to use in heated chamber" Tags="|printer-building|chamber|" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10713" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10701" CreationDate="2019-07-29T08:47:56.670" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is already established that is is possible to calculate the estimated print duration by &lt;a href=&quot;/a/10702/&quot;&gt;this anwer&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The most accurate estimation is obtained with specific settings for the printer. So if you have access to the printer, your most accurate estimation would be using the software from the manufacturer or correctly setup third party software. Going to the library twice might work out as you have one day to tweak the print to get it done in 4 hours, the other day to print the file generated the day earlier. Note that there are also community solutions (cheaper than commercial printer services) available where you select the most nearby printer and let somebody else print it for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As an alternative (to try at home), if you navigate to the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.lulzbot.com/taz-cura-profiles&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;LulzBot website&lt;/a&gt; you can find a specific release for the LulzBot printers e.g. &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.lulzbot.com/cura&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;download here&lt;/a&gt; and use their released profiles (from this &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.lulzbot.com/taz-cura-profiles&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;location&lt;/a&gt;) to slice your print using the material to print the object in. Note that these slicing parameter files are for the TAZ, the slicing parameters can be applied to the mini. Note that this will cause an inaccuracy for the print time, but will serve as a good start.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From their website you can read that:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;How to Download and Use Print Profiles&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To get printing right away, the default LulzBot TAZ print profiles listed below can be imported into Cura LulzBot Edition for ready-to-print settings. To download and save the configuration file, right click and select Save As.&#xA;In order to use the print profiles below you will need to switch to the Full Settings view (Expert &amp;gt; Switch to full settings). After downloading, import the Cura print profile by selecting, in Cura, File &amp;gt; Open Profile. Navigate and select the pre-set Cura print profile file of choice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:29:41.667" LastActivityDate="2019-07-29T08:47:56.670" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10715" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10709" CreationDate="2019-07-29T13:00:46.813" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;At &lt;a href=&quot;http://hyrel3d.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Hyrel&lt;/a&gt;, where I work, we use a 12&amp;nbsp;VDC, 3.5&amp;nbsp;A, 40&amp;nbsp;W spindle tool with 1/4&quot; chuck and 3,000 rpm max (without load) to make prototype circuit boards by machining through the copper layer to make isolation traces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4922" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2019-08-19T12:20:47.850" LastActivityDate="2019-08-19T12:20:47.850" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10716" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10238" CreationDate="2019-07-29T13:29:41.990" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I also have one, when you plug it on your linux computer, there is a CH340G usb-serial chip inside, a serial port should be available at /dev/ttyUSB0, and you can send a right BMP file via this serial port.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maybe EzGraver would work?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/camrein/EzGraver&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://github.com/camrein/EzGraver&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17172" LastActivityDate="2019-07-29T13:29:41.990" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10717" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10712" CreationDate="2019-07-29T16:09:45.673" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&amp;quot;Since it has a heating chamber I can't use normal stepper motor&amp;quot;  Sure you can, the interior doesn't get all that warm unless you really seal it up tight, and that's not really needed.  I have an enclosure around my 200x200x200 mm MIGBOT (early Prusa clone with direct drive extruder), printing PLA with 60 °C bed, the interior only gets a few degrees warmer.  The motors can take a lot more heat than you think they can.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a couple pictures taken from this question,  &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10008/printer-cover-for-noise-abatement-cleanliness-temperature-control&quot;&gt;Printer cover for noise abatement, cleanliness, temperature control&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RF2fC.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Enclosure with front open&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RF2fC.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Enclosure with front open&quot; title=&quot;Enclosure with front open&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Kj1QJ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Enclosure with front closed&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Kj1QJ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Enclosure with front closed&quot; title=&quot;Enclosure with front closed&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The front &amp;amp; back panels are 18x24 inch polycarbonate from Home Depot, I 3D printed the corner brackets, and added a couple of pieces of wood for some stiffness. The entire front hinges up. The top is 24x24 inch, and the back 6&amp;quot; hinges up to access the SD card that is on the display/control panel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I printed 9 2&amp;quot; x 2&amp;quot; pieces for a chess board, took about 8.5 hours I think.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16523" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2021-09-25T17:08:45.267" LastActivityDate="2021-09-25T17:08:45.267" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10718" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10712" CreationDate="2019-07-29T17:02:03.510" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You don't need to worry about the stepper for heating chamber since the direct drive uses a fan for cooling the motor area.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MfR7h.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MfR7h.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I started to make my own printer I had the same question but in order to make me feel good and peace. I prefer to use a bowder extruder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AChjC.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AChjC.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This bowden extruder comes in different sizes: Normal as picture shows above, small, and mini like the other that shows pre assembled below.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/plV2c.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/plV2c.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However the question should be different like, &lt;strong&gt;Can I print inside an oven?&lt;/strong&gt; for this will address the question to other possibilities:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1.- Cover or shield the motor with some foil to avoid the heating &lt;br&gt;&#xA;2.- Add a water cooling like CPU, so the water flows from outside to the motor to keep a low temperature. &lt;br&gt;&#xA;3.- Add cooling fans, this ones should take te air from outside and tha air can be directed with a corrugated tube for the Extruder motor and the radiator. For the X, Y and Z motors can be a rigid tube. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This cooling fans won't affect the internal chamber temperature due the cooling process is punctual. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;4.- Many electronics components are designed to work at 105°, so won't be affected in short terms, however the life of circutry will decrease a lot, since designs cover until 5 years at normal conditions so your printer can last up to 1.5 years.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Recommendations:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't see a real reason to keep the printer isolated to high temperatures while the porpuse of this is to keep temperature variations from clime like winter and summer. In my case the print room has a normal temperature of 38°C on summers and -2°C on winter, so how can I print with the same quality on winter if the printer is so cold? &lt;em&gt;ah, I need a chamber to keep that temperature of summer&lt;/em&gt;. then I made the chamber to acheive 38°C not the whole temperature of the bed print. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I need to print ABS so I set the bed temperature to 80°C so the parts won´t get warped, due the temperature for adhesive for ABS is the correct; also this temperature won´t over heat the chamber at least near to 60°C, but can it be reduced extracting the heat with other fan. For this case is just only one or two fans.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KPzRf.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KPzRf.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note:&#xA;The Idea to have the whole printer inside an oven will help to keep that 80°-95°C under control is good, but some times is hard to implement it due materials and its purposes are different and serviseable life will be too low.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So your chamber should include the printing area only or follow the recommendation as the picture above. Those photo was taken from the site &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.engineering.com/3DPrinting/3DPrintingArticles/ArticleID/5353/A-New-Industrial-RepRap-Emerges.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;industrial RepRap&lt;/a&gt; and also exposes som e features as i'm suggesting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4454" LastEditorUserId="4454" LastEditDate="2019-08-01T22:47:21.850" LastActivityDate="2019-08-01T22:47:21.850" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10719" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-07-30T04:46:55.013" Score="0" ViewCount="187" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am thinking about making something from chalk. But can chalk be printed into shapes directly or is it better to shape it with printed molds? What kind of material would be suitable for a mold for the chalk so I can ensure the mold releases after the chalk solution cures?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16729" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2019-07-30T19:18:38.617" LastActivityDate="2019-07-30T19:18:38.617" Title="Chalk objects: 3D Printed or Molds?" Tags="|molds|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10720" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10673" CreationDate="2019-07-30T10:21:19.433" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had a similar problem some time ago. The problem in my case was, that in the slicer I had a minimum layer time, which was pausing the printer until that time had passed. I can't remember the name of the settings and I'm not at home right now, but the slicer can either print full speed and pause or it can slow down, to maintain a minimum layer time. I guess the idea is to give the plastic time to cool down. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17179" LastActivityDate="2019-07-30T10:21:19.433" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10721" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10712" CreationDate="2019-07-30T14:06:07.990" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Two things matter for the stepper motor:  the insulation temperature and the Curie point of the magnet. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You probably aren't near the Curie point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The critical temperature is the sum of the ambient plus the temperature rise from the drive power.  In your case,  I would try mounting the motor to a water cooled metal cold plate.   Bring the lower temperature to the motor.   Mount the full face of the motor to the plate with thermal compound. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Use a tiny pump to move water from a reservoir through the cold plate.   For an example,  check out the E3D Kracken.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2082" LastActivityDate="2019-07-30T14:06:07.990" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10722" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10712" CreationDate="2019-07-30T14:55:46.383" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;An alternative to finding steppers that can withstand the heat, you can consider not getting the heat near the steppers:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;Moving the steppers outside the heated build volume&lt;/em&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;With 2 extra pulleys per stepper you can get the steppers outside the build volume.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/he7hz.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;CoreXY kinematics based on source image of Greg Hoge&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/he7hz.png&quot; alt=&quot;CoreXY kinematics, steppers brought outside chamber&quot; title=&quot;CoreXY kinematics based on source image of Greg Hoge&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;Shield the motors from the heat by placing them in a cooler tunnel or behind a face plate/cover&lt;/em&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;You can also shield the steppers from the heat, e.g. the Ultimaker 3(E) the steppers are behind a cover.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Be aware that creating a 90&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C heat chamber, all the printed parts for the CoreXY need to be printed in a filament type that can withstand prolonged exposure to the temperature you want the chamber to be (or be made in metal). For the mentioned temperature this implies the use of some more exotic filament types, see e.g. &lt;a href=&quot;/a/6120/&quot;&gt;this answer&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-08-01T12:25:15.620" LastActivityDate="2019-08-01T12:25:15.620" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10723" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10712" CreationDate="2019-07-30T18:45:37.883" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm just going to come straight out and say it. If you can't design and build a Core XY system then you should not even attempt a heated build chamber.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Stratasys 3D printers that have heated chambers use a H-Bot design (the predecessor of CoreXY), so as to keep everything out of the chamber. You can't use a regular hot end. You can't have fans on that hot end to keep it cool. You can't have the motors inside the chamber. You can barely have the filament in the chamber because it could get soft inside the tube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some of the answers state that motors can operate at high temps already. That is only true in ambient conditions. The heat that the coils of the motor generate is trying to escape to the outside of the motor. It it much hotter inside! Therefore if you raise the external environment's temp to 90 °C then the heat won't escape as quickly; and if it raises beyond the melt/burn temp then the motor will fail. See:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Magnet_wire&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Wikipedia - Magnet_wire&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/211986/burning-temperature-of-copper-winding-of-motor&quot;&gt;Burning Temperature of Copper Winding of Motor&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After that fails the PVC coating on the lead wires will fail, usually resorting in a short, which could destroy the stepper drivers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally, everything made of metal will expand. The ball bearings will expand, the rails will expand and the hot end will expand. The linear system could become tighter or looser; it could even warp depending on the type of steel. If it becomes looser, then there goes your ability to 3D print! You might end up needing to design and fabricate your parts so that they fit and work properly only when they are at the working temp.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is what you need to build:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d8D26lcka8U&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;AON-M2 : High Temperature Industrial 3D Printer&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/d8D26lcka8U?start=0&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12857" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2021-09-26T06:21:52.117" LastActivityDate="2021-09-26T06:21:52.117" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10724" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10726" CreationDate="2019-07-30T19:14:31.660" Score="1" ViewCount="673" Body="&lt;p&gt;I converted the STL file through an online converter &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.cadforum.cz/catalog_en/stl2dwg.asp&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.cadforum.cz/catalog_en/stl2dwg.asp&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(I work in the program autocad 2017)&#xA;Now I open the resulting DXF and I don’t know how to work with it. How do I merge polygons into a whole model?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17186" LastActivityDate="2019-07-30T19:52:11.377" Title="Getting started with converted STL to DXF" Tags="|3d-models|stl|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2019-08-08T04:56:50.973" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10725" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10719" CreationDate="2019-07-30T19:16:56.557" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Chalk, as a ceramic substance, could be printed with a paste printer and if the substance can hold its shape during drying for a couple of hours.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It might be easier to use a flexible filament like TPE or TPU to print a mold in which the paste can cure slowly to a point it can be safely removed. These filaments make release easier as one can flex them away from the printed object.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another option could be vapor smoothed ABS and a tapered shape so that the object has no undercuts and easy paths only. If one adds a pusher rod place, which is closed by a plug during casting the chalk and can remove from the back after casting, removal gets easier as air can flow in from the back through the removed plug. It can also be used to use a pen or similar obect to gently release the item with light taps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastActivityDate="2019-07-30T19:16:56.557" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10726" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10724" CreationDate="2019-07-30T19:52:11.377" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I figured it out. Need to go: Network -&gt; conversion to surface&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then we get a surface that is already easy to work with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17186" LastActivityDate="2019-07-30T19:52:11.377" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10727" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-07-31T00:33:04.077" Score="2" ViewCount="405" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Tronxy P802E, which works pretty well for me. I currently use Ultimaker Cura 4.1.0.  However, I occasionally get a weird problem where the walls in certain parts of certain prints will be highly porous.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RMI8x.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RMI8x.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;porous print wall&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Contrast the following similar, yet non-porous, structure elsewhere in the print:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VrYQ1.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VrYQ1.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;non-porous print wall&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Note, though, that you can see porosity in the wall of the triangular structure on the right.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've printed this twice - once with retraction enabled, and once with retraction disabled.  Porosity occurred to the same degree, and &lt;em&gt;in the same places&lt;/em&gt;.  It's neither a jam nor general underextrusion, because it occurred on every z-layer in the same set of xy places, but &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; in other xy places.  It makes me wonder if there's something about the order that Ultimaker Cura codes the structures to be printed in, that causes this problem - like if it's e.g. transitioning from one wall to an opposing wall after infill, triggers low extrusion, or something like that.  I further wonder if it's a problem in gcode or something that occurs in the physical act of printing.  Has anybody seen this before?  Have they solved it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Oh, this may or may not be unrelated, but when I've watched the infill, I notice that there's frequently little gaps just before or after crossing another infill line.  I may make a separate question about that, eventually, if it's not related to this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10790" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-07-31T12:03:05.367" LastActivityDate="2019-07-31T12:03:05.367" Title="Walls are sometimes porous" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|underextrusion|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10728" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10729" CreationDate="2019-07-31T19:08:50.730" Score="3" ViewCount="541" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was looking at a BLTouch probe, and saw the recent question about one with intermittent failure. That was kind of scary, where I might spend a bunch of money for something that would make my printer harder to use, rather than easier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I was curious. I don't have any personal experience using these, but it seems like the probe would only be used during an initial level and when homing the Z axis. Thus, as long as the probe works most of the time, and failure to home properly doesn't damage your nozzle or print bed, maybe this kind of thing isn't too bad.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this assessment of how the probe functions (that it's not really used after the start of a print) accurate?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the spirit of stack exchange, I'm not interested in the subjective issue of nozzle or print bed damage; I'm only asking about the objective assessment of how a probe is used by the printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12562" LastEditorUserId="12562" LastEditDate="2019-08-01T00:46:10.487" LastActivityDate="2019-09-30T07:00:38.087" Title="Is a BLTouch probe used during a print after the first layer?" Tags="|z-probe|bltouch|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10729" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10728" CreationDate="2019-07-31T22:04:32.093" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your assessment is correct, after probing before printing it deploys several times, after that it is stowed till the end of the print unless you call for deployment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The probe is used by G-code command &lt;code&gt;G29&lt;/code&gt;; &lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#G29:_Detailed_Z-Probe&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this command&lt;/a&gt; is used by a few printer firmwares to perform a bed probing sequence where, depending on the options set in the firmware, the surface of the bed is scanned by deploying the sensor at various locations. From these measurements, the firmware will determine the shape or tilt of the bed to compensate for deviations in Z height during the first couple of layers or millimeters of the print. Basically, it will keep your nozzle (approximately, as it is based on calculations) at the same distance all over the bed area.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once the print starts after the &lt;code&gt;G29&lt;/code&gt; command, the sensor is stowed until the next print calls the &lt;code&gt;G29&lt;/code&gt; command (or &lt;code&gt;M280&lt;/code&gt; with arguments to deploy on Marlin/Duet/Smoothieware, or &lt;code&gt;M340&lt;/code&gt; on Repetier firmware).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-08-31T06:25:36.273" LastActivityDate="2019-08-31T06:25:36.273" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10730" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-08-01T00:20:42.777" Score="3" ViewCount="2950" Body="&lt;p&gt;I own a Comgrow Creality Ender 3 3D Printer Aluminum DIY with Resume Print 220x220x250mm&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am a newbie and last night finally got a halfway decent print, but tonight I went to Auto Home it and it just keeps trying to move down, down down even though it physically can't go any lower. The z-axis just keeps trying to spin down. The long threaded metal rod just keeps turning like it needs to keep moving down. Any ideas?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17197" LastEditorUserId="11242" LastEditDate="2019-08-01T00:32:53.703" LastActivityDate="2019-08-03T15:00:06.910" Title="Auto home issue on ender 3" Tags="|creality-ender-3|z-axis|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10731" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10730" CreationDate="2019-08-01T00:31:45.460" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds like your z-stop isn't engaging when it's supposed to. The z-axis end stop should be located at the left of the build plate on the z-axis column. When the gantry (with the printhead) comes down, it should contact that. If it doesn't contact it, or if the end stop isn't functioning (isn't sending the signal to stop), the z-axis will just continue to try and go down. Check to ensure it touches where  you want it to touch, and if it is, then check the operation of the end stop. You can do that with a multimeter set to ohms. Just detach the wiring from the main board, place your two multimeter leads on either wire end, then click the end stop. it should go from no continuity to full continuity when you hear the end stop click.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: The endstop should look something like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hLvfE.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hLvfE.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Image pulled from https://images.monoprice.com&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11242" LastEditorUserId="11242" LastEditDate="2019-08-03T15:00:06.910" LastActivityDate="2019-08-03T15:00:06.910" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10733" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3294" CreationDate="2019-08-01T02:51:31.577" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It may help someone I am just noting that all your comments are valid.  I was reading through forums to find a solution to the binding problem.  After calibrating, levelling, and adjusting, what I found out was rather simple.  The two motors came out of phase (not sure how).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are the steps I took.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I unplugged the motor on the left and the other motor was driving the Z axis just fine.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I unplugged the motor on the right and the other motor was driving the Z axis just fine. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I started thinking in terms of my power supply providing enough current to drive both motors and then I rebooted the controller.  When the system came back both motors were driving in synch.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6576" LastActivityDate="2019-08-01T02:51:31.577" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10734" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10683" CreationDate="2019-08-01T04:46:34.690" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;For long prints, if turning off bed heating saves  money, throwing out the filament from a detached print costs you more.  The risk to gain ratio is very skewed.  The “savings” in turning off the bed are considerably negative, and, as pointed out, the risk of losing the print is increased.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10900" LastActivityDate="2019-08-01T04:46:34.690" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10736" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-08-01T13:01:17.737" Score="1" ViewCount="96" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't remember making a change to marlin but today when I tried to probe my bed my Z probe homed and slowly went downwards until the probe detected the first point. then without lifting it it just kept moving over the other points without lifting or even moving the z.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I canceled that and ran an &lt;code&gt;M48&lt;/code&gt;, here's the output:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Recv: 1 of 5: z: -0.497&#xA;Recv: 2 of 5: z: -0.497&#xA;Recv: 3 of 5: z: -0.497&#xA;Recv: 4 of 5: z: -0.497&#xA;Recv: 5 of 5: z: -0.497&#xA;Recv: Finished!&#xA;Recv: Mean: -0.497500 Min: -0.497 Max: -0.497 Range: 0.000&#xA;Recv: Standard Deviation: 0.000000&#xA;Recv: &#xA;Recv: X:74.00 Y:191.00 Z:5.29 E:0.00 Count X:5920 Y:15280 Z:116&#xA;Recv: ok&#xA;Recv: echo:endstops hit:  Z:0.29&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas on what's going on?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.dropbox.com/sh/03ubktpsevbj4tx/AACOXEYqhIkrY3L7RiwSmV7Qa?dl=0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;This is a link&lt;/a&gt; to my config files in a Dropbox folder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have an Anycubic i3 Mega-S with a graphical LCD screen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14936" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-08-01T13:19:33.190" LastActivityDate="2019-08-01T13:19:33.190" Title="Printer doesn't lift Z between each probe" Tags="|marlin|bed-leveling|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10737" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10736" CreationDate="2019-08-01T13:16:23.903" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my Pins.h folder turns out I needed to put a x-max pin. I hadn't defined that so it was randomly reading it as high. my printer thinking it can't go higher was freaking out basically :) this explains the other strange behavior i was experiencing!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14936" LastActivityDate="2019-08-01T13:16:23.903" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10738" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11005" CreationDate="2019-08-01T13:28:42.133" Score="5" ViewCount="8099" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was having some issues with printing, most noticeably in this picture:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.imgur.com/oCKwkBj.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Noticeable layers in print&quot; title=&quot;Noticeable layers in print&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The layers are very noticeable and sometimes have gaps, and the overhangs don't print very well (although the former is more of an issue). I just calibrated my E-steps so I don't think that is the issue. It was doing the same thing before I upgraded anything (i.e., I had issues on stock hardware).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My printer is an Ender 3 with the metal extruder upgrade (which replaces the plastic parts as seen &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B07B96QMN2&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;), an E3D v6, printed fan duct (Bullseye), glass bed, BLTouch, and vanilla Marlin. Pictures of it are also in the below album. The printed upgrades were printed on a Prusa MK3S and don't have the same issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am using Hatchbox 1.75 mm gray PLA, printed at 215 °C with my bed at 60 °C. I am using Ultimaker Cura 4.1 but was also having the problems on an older version of Ultimaker Cura (maybe 3.6, but I can't remember which it was). The problems also existed with some Hatchbox 1.75 mm black PLA but I used the same roll on my Prusa MK3S without any issues, so I'm not sure if filament could be the cause (although it is a different printer so it's still a possibility).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have tried at different printing speeds and the problem still persists.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also recently tried varying the temperature during printing (first up to 222 °C then down to 200 °C) with no noticeable difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Extra pictures &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mgsiC.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Model is part of &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.printablescenery.com/product/sorcerers-tower/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Printable Scenery's sorcerer tower&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16827" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2021-09-28T16:12:53.700" LastActivityDate="2021-09-28T16:12:53.700" Title="Inconsistent Layer Issues" Tags="|print-quality|creality-ender-3|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10739" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10738" CreationDate="2019-08-01T15:10:06.837" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;These lines could be caused by a mechanical issue with the printer; it looks as if the positioning is not up to par. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This can be related to loose belts of the X-axis and Y-axis, or play in your system, e.g. look at the rollers of the carriage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;I've experienced an issue with play between the idler mounts and the smooth linear rods on a cheap 3D printer kit myself, but that is not the case here. Just added to explain where play may come from.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-08-01T15:31:11.523" LastActivityDate="2019-08-01T15:31:11.523" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10740" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4762" CreationDate="2019-08-01T15:27:07.060" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This defect that you see is called &quot;Ringing&quot; and is described in detail &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/vibrations-and-ringing/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In summary, these waves are seen when the print head makes a sudden change in direction in combination with high speeds and high accelerations. As the waves dampen in amplitude the further you get from the sharp corner, this is related to print settings rather than vibrations transmitted through the belts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Apparently, the settings for Ultimaker Cura differ from the settings in Slic3r, there is no other explanation as the hardware is exactly the same. Reducing print speed and acceleration in Ultimaker Cura will reduce the ringing defects.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2019-08-01T15:27:07.060" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10741" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10010" CreationDate="2019-08-01T17:31:51.890" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;code&gt;M42&lt;/code&gt; command is an immediate command. This means that it will run before the move GCode commands finish. This is exactly what I was facing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This video has the walk-through of solving the issue: &lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/LEjgp77TIy4?start=625&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is the relevant PDF it talks about: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.v1engineering.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/01/MPCNC-laser-add-on-walk-through-Rev2.0.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;The 2.8 watt, $100 Laser&#xA;Upgrade for MPCNC&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is the relevant section on page 7 of the PDF:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;ol&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The laser driver requires a 5 volt TTL input control signal. The&#xA;  Marlin fan control Mcodes (M106 and M107) will be used to&#xA;  control the laser .Unfortunately, the Ramps fan output (D9) is a&#xA;  12 volt signal so we can’t use it. We'll need a quick firmware edit&#xA;  to remap the fan output from pin D9 (12v) to pin 44(5v).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Make a backup copy of your Marlin firmware folder first. Open&#xA;  the pins_RAMPS_13.h file in your Marlin firmware folder with a&#xA;  text editor (Wordpad). Search for the line where the fan pin is&#xA;  assigned and change it from pin 9 to pin 44.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Save the changes and flash the revised firmware back onto your&#xA;  Mega board. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16492" LastEditorUserId="14061" LastEditDate="2020-01-28T21:53:24.943" LastActivityDate="2020-01-28T21:53:24.943" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10742" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10745" CreationDate="2019-08-02T06:19:05.233" Score="3" ViewCount="1084" Body="&lt;p&gt;I came across a new Steel infused PLA from &lt;a href=&quot;https://colorfabb.com/steelfill&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Colorfabb&lt;/a&gt;. On the store page someone had asked, what happens if it was exposed to water, would it rust. I am actually, not sure what would happen. I am interested what the effects of leaving in the elements a 3D printed object made of the 2 most common type of fused materials. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wood Infill&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Metal Infill (not stainless steel)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would it be preserved by the PLA coating it, or would, over time, rust and dissolve? Would the wood last forever, or will the print get discolored and become mulch? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2146" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-08-02T06:30:37.137" LastActivityDate="2019-08-03T18:08:53.117" Title="What are the effects of the elements on 3D printed objects made with &quot;infused&quot; PLA" Tags="|filament|metal-parts|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10743" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10011" CreationDate="2019-08-02T07:31:49.063" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It was a stock setting in cura with the filament diameter. Thanks for the help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16549" LastActivityDate="2019-08-02T07:31:49.063" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10744" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-08-02T07:37:20.783" Score="2" ViewCount="596" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been messing around trying to flash marlin 1.1 onto my Arduino Mega 2650 and RAMPS 1.4. I have Managed to get it to upload fine however it will not upload with the LCD I want. I am trying to upload it and have it set to a &quot;RepRap Discount Smart Controller&quot;. When I uploaded the firmware it was on the stock Anet LCD, however when I try to change this in the file and verify it I get an error that I do not understand. I have done some digging on google but haven't really been able to figure out the answer. Here's the error:  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&#xA;sketch\ultralcd.cpp:4860:3: internal compiler error: Segmentation fault&#xA;&#xA;   DEFINE_MENU_EDIT_TYPE(uint32_t, long5, ftostr5rj, 0.01f);&#xA;&#xA;   ^&#xA;&#xA;Please submit a full bug report,&#xA;&#xA;with preprocessed source if appropriate.&#xA;&#xA;See  for instructions.&#xA;&#xA;lto-wrapper.exe: fatal error: C:\Program Files\WindowsApps\ArduinoLLC.ArduinoIDE_1.8.21.0_x86__mdqgnx93n4wtt\hardware\tools\avr/bin/avr-gcc returned 1 exit status&#xA;&#xA;compilation terminated.&#xA;&#xA;c:/program files/windowsapps/arduinollc.arduinoide_1.8.21.0_x86__mdqgnx93n4wtt/hardware/tools/avr/bin/../lib/gcc/avr/5.4.0/../../../../avr/bin/ld.exe: error: lto-wrapper failed&#xA;&#xA;collect2.exe: error: ld returned 1 exit status&#xA;&#xA;exit status 1&#xA;Error compiling for board Arduino/Genuino Mega or Mega 2560.&#xA;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16549" LastEditorUserId="3953" LastEditDate="2019-08-02T12:48:00.067" LastActivityDate="2019-08-09T03:55:49.367" Title="Marlin on Arduino Mega 2650 and RAMPS 1.4" Tags="|marlin|firmware|ramps-1.4|arduino-mega-2650|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10745" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10742" CreationDate="2019-08-02T11:55:14.407" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you use filaments filled with metal particles, some particles will be exposed to the environment. Depending on the corrosion resistance of those metals, yes the environmental conditions will weather the print object. So if it contains iron (and does not contain elements that prevent oxidation like used in stainless steel) and it is subjected to water and oxides, the print will rust. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is e.g. also valid for copper filled filament, which you can polish to get a gold shine surface (removing the copper oxides), or bronze filled filament, that if &lt;a href=&quot;http://nicklievendag.com/colorfabb-bronzefill-review/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;correctly subjected to weathering environments&lt;/a&gt;, will give the looks of a very old statue. In both cases this implies that the metal particles have undergone a(n) (de-)oxidation process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-08-03T18:08:53.117" LastActivityDate="2019-08-03T18:08:53.117" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10746" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10742" CreationDate="2019-08-02T14:58:15.827" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The particles on the outmost part of the print which are exposed to air will rust. The ones inside will still be protected somewhat by the PLA. The rust color/effect is part of the idea, since it give certain prints an old look.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3d0ke.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3d0ke.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;ProtoPasta Iron-Filled Metal Composite PLA&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.proto-pasta.com/products/magnetic-iron-pla&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.proto-pasta.com/products/magnetic-iron-pla&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12857" LastActivityDate="2019-08-02T14:58:15.827" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10747" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-08-02T15:42:43.617" Score="1" ViewCount="69" Body="&lt;p&gt;A few weeks back I updated my Monoprice Maker Select Plus from the stock firmware to &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/andrivet/ADVi3pp&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;ADVi3++&lt;/a&gt; 3.0.2. I've put more than 20 prints through the machine since then and everything has been fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of the few downsides to the new firmware is the Z control. When moving the head up using the control panel, it only moves a millimeter or two instead of the 5 or 10 is used to, meaning it can be a bit of a pain to clear the head out of the way when working with the printer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wanted to adjust the setting, so I went through the settings section of my new firmware, trying different values for various options to see if one would change what happens when I pushed the up arrow button for the z axis. I was careful to only ever change values for the Z axis, and after each change I set things back to where they were. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I never did find what I was looking for, but that will be a topic for a future question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The very next print after doing this came out awful. I can no longer get a clean, straight line. Instead, the edges are all wavy... and it's &lt;em&gt;way worse&lt;/em&gt; than simple ringing. On longer linear stretches I can observe the print head does not move smoothly, but rather speeds up and slows down. It never really stops, but it doesn't move consistently, either. It kind of pulses as it goes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have duplicated this with a known good gcode file, so I know it's not the slice. I can move the bed freely with the printer off, and this started on both axises simultaneously, conveniently after my z-axis experiment, so I don't believe it's a problem with bearings. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've tried restoring factory defaults and even re-flashing the firmware, but it hasn't helped.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas on how to correct this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12562" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-12-19T11:45:56.637" LastActivityDate="2019-12-19T11:45:56.637" Title="Uneven motion in X and Y directions after attempting to adjust Z motion in ADVI3++" Tags="|print-quality|firmware|monoprice-maker-select-plus|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10748" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10747" CreationDate="2019-08-02T16:29:26.927" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Found the problem. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The screws connecting the carriage plate to the assembly that connects to the Y-axis belt had loosened, allowing some free play for movements in the Y direction and vibration for movements in the X direction. It just happened to go from nothing to unprintable all at once at the same time I was experimenting with the Z settings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12562" LastEditorUserId="12562" LastEditDate="2019-08-02T21:36:19.610" LastActivityDate="2019-08-02T21:36:19.610" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10750" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-08-04T03:33:42.833" Score="2" ViewCount="743" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here's the thing that I'm working on putting together (the purple stud on the bottom right should be up higher like the one on the left).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ETEqw.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ETEqw.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Notice how the purple studs fit into the red ring? Well, most of the parts are like that in one way or another. That is, most of the parts need to start right where another part ends with no gap and without being too tight. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any good rules of thumb for knowing how much smaller a male part needs to be to fit into a female part? I want a good fit but I don't want to have to jam them in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm doing this at the library and just getting down there and setup is an ordeal. The blue cylinder (4x102mm) alone takes almost 4 hours to print with a nozzle size of .6mm. ...I imagine this is how it must have felt when people had to program on punch cards, lol. Except, this isn't just a logic thing. It's an experimentation thing and it's taking up a ton of my time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I get these parts to fit together perfectly like they do in my model?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17125" LastEditorUserId="17125" LastEditDate="2019-08-04T04:14:11.283" LastActivityDate="2019-08-04T04:14:11.283" Title="What clearance should I leave between parts that are supposed to fit together perfectly when using a .6mm diameter nozzle?" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|nozzle|dimensional-accuracy|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10751" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10750" CreationDate="2019-08-04T04:02:24.893" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;First, find or make a tolerance checking test print. This basically just involves a few cylinders with diameters something like 0.1, 0.15, 0.2, 0.25, 0.3, ... mm smaller than a cylindrical hole, and lets you figure out what works without going through lots of iterations on your actual part design or time on the printer. Make note that diameter (2 gaps) vs radius/gap-width (single gap) is a really important distinction here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With that said, your design does not look well-suited to 3D printing. The purple studs are &lt;strong&gt;going to break&lt;/strong&gt;. That's pretty much a given. And overall there are just way too many pieces. A big part of the advantage of 3D printing is that you don't have to assemble things out of parts that would be easy to produce (or available stock) with traditional manufacturing methods. You can often produce a complete working result all in one print, or two or three if there really need to be separable parts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would replace the purple studs and red piece that looks like it's intended to allow easy connection/removal with a threaded interface. That would distribute the forces much more evenly, and it's easier to print. If you don't care what orientation it stops at, it's super easy; otherwise you have to put some sort of stop or predict where the friction will hold it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2019-08-04T04:02:24.893" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10753" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-08-04T22:13:39.913" Score="0" ViewCount="38" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a weird problem, my object base starts good and then as the object goes to the next layers it is off centered. I have a picture to better explain. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VLUrk.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VLUrk.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qVeEz.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qVeEz.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17219" LastActivityDate="2019-08-04T22:13:39.913" Title="3D printed object can't print straight upward" Tags="|3d-models|diy-3d-printer|troubleshooting|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2019-08-06T03:55:52.393" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10754" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10756" CreationDate="2019-08-04T22:26:06.673" Score="4" ViewCount="5677" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an Ender 5 with an aluminum extruder that was printing beautifully for a few days after building it. I received a Capricorn bowden tube and new couplings as a gift, and replaced those, and now I have stringing issues I can't solve. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've been all over the map with settings (temps, speeds, z-hop, retraction, etc. etc.), I've swapped the tubes, the couplings, the filament, I've checked for clogs, and put clamps on the collars, but no matter what I do, the tube shifts in and out during retractions by about .25 - .5 mm. I suspect that has something to do with the stringing, as nothing else has solved it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any suggestions are appreciated. I haven't made adjustments to the extruder, but I don't know if that's possible or necessary. I've never had a system using the bowden, so that part of 3d printing is new to me. I'm using 3d Solutech PLA.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17218" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2019-11-18T11:47:33.377" LastActivityDate="2019-11-18T11:47:33.377" Title="Ender 5: Bowden tube shifts in/out of extruder during retractions" Tags="|pla|extruder|bowden|retraction|creality-ender-5|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10755" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-08-05T01:38:21.827" Score="1" ViewCount="205" Body="&lt;p&gt;How do I set the startpoint of the EZABL 3x3 mesh. The startpoint is hitting my bed clip.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17221" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-10-03T06:28:54.913" LastActivityDate="2019-10-03T13:00:57.737" Title="Setting the startpoint of the EZABL 3x3 mesh" Tags="|marlin|creality-ender-3|bed-leveling|ezabl|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10756" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10754" CreationDate="2019-08-05T03:37:02.470" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If it's just the pressure fitting on the brass coupler that shifts in/out, or the PTFE tube shifting slightly in/out but remaining in the coupler, that shouldn't be a problem unless it's so loose it can come out entirely. The blue clips which should have come with the printer are intended to stop this motion or at least provide enough pressure to prevent it from falling all the way out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regarding the small 0.25 - 0.5 mm of play, effectively it just means you lose that much length from your retractions, since part of the retraction goes into pulling the tube back into the coupler. When the retraction is reversed, the effective filament position should go back to what it was before the retraction. As long as your retraction amount is sufficient after the loss, it should not cause stringing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You probably need to look for another cause of your stringing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2019-08-05T03:37:02.470" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10757" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10755" CreationDate="2019-08-05T06:16:54.620" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &quot;EZ&quot; company (TH3D) is trying to make flashing firmware easy by making choices in the configuration for people to set based on printer type. While this makes the flashing more accessible to more people, it does not help people to understand what actually happens in the firmware or what is meant by certain settings. See it as an automated process to add automatic bed levelling to a number of printer models.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To change the bed probing area, you need to modify some specific lines that specify the probe area. How you should change this is explained in &lt;a href=&quot;/a/8154&quot;&gt;this answer&lt;/a&gt; on question &lt;em&gt;&quot;How to set Z-probe boundary limits in firmware when using automatic bed leveling?&quot;&lt;/em&gt;. It would be best to set or increase the constant &lt;code&gt;MIN_PROBE_EDGE&lt;/code&gt;. This effectively makes the probe area smaller so you will not hit the bed clips.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-10-03T13:00:57.737" LastActivityDate="2019-10-03T13:00:57.737" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10760" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-08-06T08:59:03.700" Score="3" ViewCount="5639" Body="&lt;p&gt;My printer had some Z-axis issue. Here are the details:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I was printing a model, the bottom of the model got bumpy edges(as shown in pic), and the height of the model was a little bit shorter(about 5% shorter).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zJ2jP.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zJ2jP.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I thought it might be caused by the Zsteppers/mm. But after I tweaked up the Zsterppers/mm, the problem remained. I realized that the extruder raised not enough at the beginning of the printing. So I print a small cube which hight is 2mm. And the following pic is the result:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EXl1d.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EXl1d.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know what might cause this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks in advance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17222" LastActivityDate="2019-08-11T08:47:33.767" Title="Problems with Z-axis: Z-axis raised not enough at the beginning" Tags="|creality-ender-3|z-axis|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10761" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7334" CreationDate="2019-08-06T11:58:34.803" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;After adjusting the endstop check that the documented maximum height (150mm) is still achievable. Just move Z axis in the menu.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14433" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2019-08-07T14:13:19.057" LastActivityDate="2019-08-07T14:13:19.057" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10762" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10763" CreationDate="2019-08-06T15:12:19.663" Score="3" ViewCount="258" Body="&lt;p&gt;In some situations it useful to have a material in which air passes but water, and water vapor, does not. Printing cell membranes or cases for something that must be immune to humidity changes (like something that holds a highly oxidative metal) are two examples. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Teflon&lt;/strong&gt; (PTFE) is a material that has this property. But PTFE is horrendous to 3D print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Silicone&lt;/strong&gt; is another material that has this property. 3D printing silicone can be done with a syringe mechanism. But there are also thermoplastic rubbers (e.g. TPU, TPE) that are designed to mimic Silicone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any filaments on the market which naturally form holes with the porous diameter for this feature? Is there any way to manipulate the diameter of this hole, even starting from pellets? Are some filaments more likely than others to have this feature?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10369" LastActivityDate="2019-08-06T15:43:29.820" Title="What filaments allow air to pass but not water vapor?" Tags="|filament|print-material|material|filament-choice|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10763" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10762" CreationDate="2019-08-06T15:43:29.820" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is difficult enough to make 3D-printed objects water-tight (unless you paint them). Making them permeable to air but not water vapour is too big an ask, I think.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3953" LastActivityDate="2019-08-06T15:43:29.820" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10765" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10766" CreationDate="2019-08-06T20:01:09.120" Score="2" ViewCount="500" Body="&lt;p&gt;Going from 12V electronics to 24V produces a reduction in the overall amount of heat generated in the electronics (that are not intended to get hot). These include the motors, drivers, mosfets and pcb traces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why then given that 48V power supplies and electronic components cost exactly the same as their 24v counterparts, are there no 48V 3d printers?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a saftey aspect to 48V that needs to be considered? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: Yes 48V fans cost a little more but it's not exorbitant. It seems odd to move from 12 to 24 to get half as much heat, when you could move from 12 to 48v and get a quarter as much heat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12857" LastEditorUserId="12857" LastEditDate="2019-08-06T20:39:50.937" LastActivityDate="2019-08-07T00:02:51.577" Title="Can 3d printers be operated at voltages above 24 volts?" Tags="|electronics|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10766" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10765" CreationDate="2019-08-06T20:30:19.903" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I believe the main issue is the voltage regulators and capacitors on your standard print main board are not rated for 48V. You can find some CNC shields that can handle up to 36V but these are lacking 3d printer features such as heater ports and only have 4 stepper slots. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11097" LastEditorUserId="11097" LastEditDate="2019-08-07T00:02:51.577" LastActivityDate="2019-08-07T00:02:51.577" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10767" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-08-06T22:14:22.877" Score="1" ViewCount="281" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm doing some research on what types of LCD displays can be used to filter and pass UV light for resin curing - specifically in the context of building a DIY 3D SLA printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The community commonly uses the Sharp LS055R1SX03 module. Looking through the datasheet, there doesn't seem to be any information pertaining to the characteristics of the device when passing UV wavelengths. Is there something special about this module that allows it to filter/pass UV wavelengths compared to other common LCD displays?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17241" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-04-07T06:29:55.463" LastActivityDate="2021-05-07T07:03:55.407" Title="LCD for SLA 3D printer resin curing" Tags="|resin|uv-printer|lcd-screen|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10768" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10771" CreationDate="2019-08-07T01:33:39.507" Score="2" ViewCount="2685" Body="&lt;p&gt;Recently my Ender 3 has developed a problem of skipping Y steps (layer shift in the Y direction), and it seems to be getting progressively worse. I'd never experienced layer shift before a few weeks ago when I tried some extreme accelerations (up to 3000 mm/s²), which mostly worked fine, but I stopped after getting a couple layer shifts, and now have X acceleration at 2000 mm/s² and Y acceleration back at the default of 500 mm/s².&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the layer shifts happen, I usually hear &quot;grinding&quot; sounds that seem like they're coming from friction of the nozzle moving over the already-deposited material. Bed leveling/height is correct though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Magnitude of the layer shifts varies between 1 mm and 3 mm. They're all in the positive direction (layers shifts towards the back of the bed).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Speeds are reasonable, 30 mm/s for outer walls, 60 mm/s for inner and infill, 120 mm/s for travel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a likely mechanical or electrical cause for the onset of skipped steps/layer shift?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it possible that the high X acceleration is what's allowing the very high travel speed to be achieved, and that such high travel speed is putting the nozzle on top of cold material that it drags on without giving it a chance to soften it first? Or is the printer underpowered such that there's insufficient current to provide the necessary Y motor torque while the X is under high acceleration? Lowering the X acceleration back to default (500 mm/s²) does seem to make it less likely or less severe, but it's still happening.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastEditorUserId="11157" LastEditDate="2019-08-07T01:44:02.113" LastActivityDate="2019-08-07T19:11:55.813" Title="Ender 3 has developed a tendancy to skip Y steps" Tags="|creality-ender-3|acceleration|layer-shifting|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10771" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10768" CreationDate="2019-08-07T19:11:55.813" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;While I first experienced layer shifts a couple times before upgrading, only while using &lt;em&gt;extreme&lt;/em&gt; acceleration settings (3000 mm/s² is fairly extreme for moving the bed), their regular occurrance, which is near-constant with some files, seems to have started after I upgraded the firmware to Marlin 1.1.9. Reverting to the manufacturer's firmware, with no mechanical changes to the printer whatsoever, has the same file printing now with no layer shifts. So I think it's safe to say that this is a firmware problem - either a bug in Marlin, or a problem with the Ender 3 configuration headers for it. The bug tracker suggests this kind of thing is an ongoing issue; here are two among a &lt;strong&gt;large&lt;/strong&gt; number of related bug tracker threads:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/issues/9768&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/issues/9768&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/issues/10446&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/issues/10446&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'll try the latest 2.0.x, and/or turning features off one at a time in 1.1.9, and see if I can isolate the cause, then open a new question about bugs in Marlin causing layer shifts if needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2019-08-07T19:11:55.813" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10772" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10773" CreationDate="2019-08-07T23:16:14.850" Score="3" ViewCount="3009" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since upgrading from the manufacturer's firmare to recent Marlin (first 1.1.9, then 2.0.x git HEAD), I've been having significant model-dependent (didn't happen for first few things I tried to print; other prints reproduce it reliably) layer shifting on the Y axis. It's always in the positive Y direction, usually by 1-3 mm at a time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2Xdkv.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;aborted prints showing layer shifts&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I first suspected mechanical problems (see: &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/q/10768/11157&quot;&gt;Ender 3 has developed a tendancy to skip Y steps&lt;/a&gt;), but reverting the firmware confirmed that it's a firmware problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A number of bug tracker entries for Marlin indicate that there are significant ongoing layer shift problems:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/issues/9768&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/issues/9768&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/issues/10446&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/issues/10446&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/issues/12403&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/issues/12403&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But most end up getting closed. Some people say reverting to 1.1.9 from 2.0.x helped; others say 1.1.9 is EOL and to use 2.0.x. Is there a solution? How do I get a working version of Marlin (new enough to have Linear Advance 1.5, which was my motivation for upgrading) on Ender 3?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastEditorUserId="11157" LastEditDate="2019-08-07T23:24:39.957" LastActivityDate="2019-08-08T05:21:52.850" Title="Y-axis layer shifts with recent Marlin on Ender 3" Tags="|marlin|creality-ender-3|firmware|layer-shifting|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10773" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10772" CreationDate="2019-08-07T23:22:30.900" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Buried in a bug tracker entry for a seemingly unrelated issue, I found what seems to be the solution:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;@johanmga, I've discovered the velocity jumps here come from using &quot;classic jerk&quot; computations, and happen whether or not s-curve acceleration is enabled.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Try uncommenting &lt;code&gt;//#define JUNCTION_DEVIATION&lt;/code&gt; in Configuration_adv.h; that will disable classic jerk and use the junction deviation math instead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Also for reference, issue #12403 is actively tracking the layer shift issue (please comment there too if you have more information on problems/solutions), and #12540 is has more information on classic jerk vs. junction deviation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/issues/12491#issuecomment-443464603&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/issues/12491#issuecomment-443464603&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems that the &quot;classic jerk&quot; code no longer works and produces erroneous motion to the steppers under some conditions (dependent on G-code contents), whereas the Ender 3 default configuration file is still using it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With the default &lt;code&gt;JUNCTION_DEVIATION_MM&lt;/code&gt; of 0.02, things worked right away, but printing was so slow that I could plausibly attribute it working just to the slowness.  But increasing it up to 0.1 via the menus got the speed closer to what I'm used to, and it's still printing with no layer shifts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've posted my results in the tracker in hopes that they'll lead to discovery of the root cause: &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/issues/12403#issuecomment-519305409&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/issues/12403#issuecomment-519305409&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another issue on the tracker seems to have more detail:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/issues/12540#issuecomment-442793326&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/issues/12540#issuecomment-442793326&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastEditorUserId="11157" LastEditDate="2019-08-08T05:21:52.850" LastActivityDate="2019-08-08T05:21:52.850" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10776" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6965" CreationDate="2019-08-08T19:56:41.637" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are several yet unmentioned considerations:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given the same movement speed thicker lines fill up a layer quicker, because more volume is extruded per second. In some systems the extrusion flow is the limiting factor for speed, but around corners the print head needs to slow down. Thicker lines = less lines = less corners = less slow down = higher print speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thicker lines have less detail, though. A line of 0.6 mm cannot represent details smaller than that, so smaller line widths capture the input geometry better. Also corners will get rounded by the same distance, so thicker lines = rounder corners.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thicker lines create worse overhang. Thicker lines require more pressure from the nozzle and if the layer below is (partly) missing the back pressure from the previous layer is less, which results in overextension, which will then also more likely go downward instead of to the sides.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The higher pressure can force lines into small crevices of the layer below, though. This was highlighted by Trish already.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The model Cura uses for a single line is rectangular, while in actuality the printed lines are rounded on the sides. This makes the width of the full extend from side to side larger than computed, at the cost of the corners of the rectangular model. This means that the line width setting should be set slightly smaller than what you would want the lines to end up like.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7956" LastActivityDate="2019-08-08T19:56:41.637" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10777" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10767" CreationDate="2019-08-09T02:28:26.310" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am not an expert by any stretch but I hope this helps, but these are regular old TFT LCD screens. You can even get 4K ones and use them for the same process. You can for example pick up 4K displays such as the H546UAN01.0 and do the same with them. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17245" LastActivityDate="2019-08-09T02:28:26.310" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10778" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10744" CreationDate="2019-08-09T03:55:49.367" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Running it as admin fixed the issue. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16549" LastActivityDate="2019-08-09T03:55:49.367" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10779" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-08-09T18:16:01.157" Score="2" ViewCount="5350" Body="&lt;p&gt;Model: Taz Lulzbot Pro&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Things we tried to get it to work:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tried both ABS and PLA Hatchbox brand&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Uploaded new set of settings from another printer of the same brand that works using the hatchbox.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tried using Polylite PLA with Ultimaker Cura Lulzbot edition settings&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The printer managed to print, but the samples printed were of very poor quality and are filled with ridges and has an uneven surface (I've attached a picture below). The printer automatically cancels the print and quits printing on layer three because the nozzle rubs against these ridges and cannot print properly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LFgtN.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;As you can see, the surface is very rough and full of ridges&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LFgtN.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;As you can see, the surface is very rough and full of ridges&quot; title=&quot;As you can see, the surface is very rough and full of ridges&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are settings that may lead to this issue? What is a good place to start trying to improve my results?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17258" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-08-10T04:27:24.133" LastActivityDate="2019-08-14T13:57:45.817" Title="Why do my prints have such a rough surface? (Taz Lulzbot Pro)" Tags="|print-quality|3d-models|lulzbot|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10781" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-08-10T10:13:09.850" Score="4" ViewCount="215" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently bought a BigTreeTech SKR V1.3 and uncommented &lt;code&gt;REPRAP_DISCOUNT_FULL_GRAPHIC_SMART_CONTROLLER&lt;/code&gt; and clicked the upload button but faced an error that says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Marlin\src\lcd\ultralcd.cpp:767:9: error: 'touch_buttons' was not declared in this scope&#xA;if (touch_buttons) {&#xA;^~~~~~~~~~~~~&#xA;Marlin\src\lcd\ultralcd.cpp:767:9: note: suggested alternative: 'buttons'&#xA;if (touch_buttons) {&#xA;&#xA;^~~~~~~~~~~~~&#xA;buttons&#xA;Marlin\src\lcd\ultralcd.cpp:805:5: error: 'else' without a previous 'if'&#xA;else wait_for_unclick = false;&#xA;^~~~&#xA;*** [.pio\build\LPC1768\src\src\lcd\ultralcd.cpp.o] Error 1&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am not sure what above message means, but can anyone else shed some light on why I am receiving these errors?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;FWIW, I am using Marlin 2.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17262" LastEditorUserId="4922" LastEditDate="2021-04-21T13:21:48.033" LastActivityDate="2021-04-21T13:21:48.033" Title="Bigtreetech upload stalled after uncommented REPRAP_DISCOUNT_FULL_GRAPHIC_SMART_CONTROLLER" Tags="|marlin|skr-v1.3|full-graphic-smart-controller|bigtreetech|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10783" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10781" CreationDate="2019-08-11T01:15:12.360" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is a temporary solution which I have found here, on the reprap forums, &lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?13,857852,857876#msg-857876&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Re: Upload to the board failed after LCD enabled&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;An official fix has been posted. Grab the new ultralcd.cpp from [&lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/blob/bugfix-2.0.x/Marlin/src/lcd/ultralcd.cpp&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;github.com&lt;/a&gt;]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Apparently the sources contained a bug which was fixed later, a new version download fixed the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17262" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2019-09-19T08:56:55.600" LastActivityDate="2019-09-19T08:56:55.600" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10784" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10760" CreationDate="2019-08-11T08:47:33.767" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here are my problem and my solution. Hope this will help others.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As @R.. suggested, I checked my carriages and as well as z-axis guide wheels(I think it is called guide wheel). And I found that the guide wheels were too tight. I can't rotate them will my fingers. So I used a spanner to adjust the eccentric nuts until the guide wheels can be rotated by two fingers. Do not make the guide wheels too loose, it may cause shaking or other problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since I don't know the exact name of each part. I marked them in the pics. If you know the correct name of the parts, welcome to correct me, I will edit it in my post.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Special thanks to R.. :P&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are the pics:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/llTHu.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/llTHu.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;guide wheels&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YEgHo.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YEgHo.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;eccentric nut left&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RDaG7.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RDaG7.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;eccentric nut right&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17222" LastActivityDate="2019-08-11T08:47:33.767" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10785" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10788" CreationDate="2019-08-11T11:17:25.210" Score="7" ViewCount="14338" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just got my first 3D printer (Creality Ender 3) on Friday, 2 days ago. It works great, but for some reason I'm getting a lot of stringing on my prints, especially the ones where the extruder head has to move a long distance between columns/posts, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm using Hatchbox &quot;True White&quot; PLA, which has a recommended temperature range of 180-210&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C. I've tried printing at 200, 190, and 185&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C and didn't see much improvement. I've also made sure I've enabled the 'retract' setting in the slicer (4.5&amp;nbsp;mm) and verified the printer is retracting when it should.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure what else I can try... any suggestions?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17270" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-08-12T05:48:26.023" LastActivityDate="2021-10-12T10:11:50.063" Title="How to fight lots of stringing with PLA at low temperature (185 °C)?" Tags="|print-quality|pla|creality-ender-3|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10786" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-08-11T11:57:41.727" Score="3" ViewCount="332" Body="&lt;p&gt;Running on the Marlin 1.1 firmware, for this issue, most other variables of the printer can just be assumed (It's a CoreXY design, but think i3 for my current testing). (Highlighted my only lead in bold, so probably best to read that first)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem:&#xA;X-axis stepper driver and motor moves fine, all other axis's don't.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I've tried and deduced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I've inverted all endstops and ruled out end stop errors, as well as any warnings that get reported through serial.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Swapped stepper drivers from the Y axis (just focusing on the Y axis for now) to the X axis, the X axis is still the only one that moves.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Swapped the X and Y axis motors: only the Y axis motor works, so still only getting powered from the X axis driver&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tested power on the stepper drivers, all stepper drivers get the same motor and logic power within margin of error&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tested step signal on the Y axis with an oscilloscope, found my only lead, &lt;strong&gt;when moving the X-axis, the step control has a peak voltage of ~5.2v and the motor moves. When testing the Y axis, the step input voltage from the Arduino  to the driver has a peak of ~1.7v&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Assuming something may be wrong with the connection, I tested the resistance between all step pins from the Arduino side to the stepper driver itself and got a constant resistance of 2.5 ohms for all drivers, pins are connected properly.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pulled the Arduino out, uploaded and ran a custom servo script on it, using pin A6 as the PWM control signal. Server runs fine with the correct voltage (ruled out a microcontroller issue).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Reassembled the RAMPS, motors etc, reuploaded a fresh copy of Marlin from their site that I configured from scratch and did some extra probing around to make sure all the connects are fine, still, only the X-axis works.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4225" LastActivityDate="2019-08-15T00:03:07.097" Title="RAMPS 1.4 Stepper's not getting a good signal" Tags="|marlin|ramps-1.4|stepper-driver|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10787" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10781" CreationDate="2019-08-11T12:42:29.990" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://marlinfw.org/meta/download/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Marlin 2.0.0 is in an &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Alpha&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; state.&lt;/a&gt; 'Alpha' is a state before &lt;em&gt;Beta&lt;/em&gt;, meaning, it's not hot off the presses, it isn't even &lt;em&gt;off the presses&lt;/em&gt;. You need to go back to the most recent &quot;stable&quot; version of Marlin, which is 1.1.9 (found on the same page as the link above). This should &lt;em&gt;most likely&lt;/em&gt; solve the errors and problems you're seeing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11242" LastActivityDate="2019-08-11T12:42:29.990" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10788" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10785" CreationDate="2019-08-11T16:12:38.397" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;4.5 mm is a low retraction distance. Cura's default is 6.5 mm, and the Ender 3 profile provided with Cura sets it to 6 mm. The first thing you should try is increasing the retraction amount up to at least 6 mm. Also, make sure you actually enabled retraction. I saw one question here where a Cura user had enabled &quot;Retract at layer change&quot;, which &lt;strong&gt;does not&lt;/strong&gt; enable retraction (but of course it shows the options like retraction amount since you need to be able to select it for this too).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your low nozzle temperature of 185&amp;nbsp;°C is also a problem. You'll have very low flow at that temperature, resulting in under-extrusion and pressure building up in the nozzle instead of extruding the material. That in turn will make it so, even after retracting, there's still material (and pressure) at the nozzle and it will keep oozing, unless you set a &lt;strong&gt;really&lt;/strong&gt; high retraction amount (and even then problems will build up over time during the print, but you might get lucky and not see them). The only way to print PLA at 185&amp;nbsp;°C is really, &lt;strong&gt;really&lt;/strong&gt; slowly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In general, some people would also recommend trying a different filament, based on reports that some vendors' PLA oozes and strings badly, but I don't think that's an issue for you. I use Hatchbox filament on my Ender 3 all the time and never have a problem with stringing from it. And even if the filament is prone to stringing, you can almost surely avoid it with proper settings. Even very soft flex filaments can be printed on this printer without stringing as long as your retraction, temperature, and speed are tuned to avoid having pressure at the nozzle during travel moves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2019-10-16T07:18:04.657" LastActivityDate="2019-10-16T07:18:04.657" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10789" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-08-11T16:27:31.797" Score="1" ViewCount="640" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Tevo Tornado Gold 24&amp;nbsp;V. I want to use this LJ12 A3-4-Z/BX Inductive NPN NO 4&amp;nbsp;mm with 6-36&amp;nbsp;V operation current as a Z probe. I do not want to fry my machine by putting in 24&amp;nbsp;V into the sensor input.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What do I have is a 12&amp;nbsp;V, single channel optocoupler isolation module.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to know if this 12&amp;nbsp;V optocoupler module can be used with a 24&amp;nbsp;V power supply, or do I need another module in order to prevent me frying my sensor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I do need another what would I need?&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cxoYG.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cxoYG.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17271" LastEditorUserId="17271" LastEditDate="2019-08-16T14:02:21.507" LastActivityDate="2019-08-17T17:01:43.427" Title="Can I use a 12 V single channel optocoupler module in a 24 V machine?" Tags="|z-probe|inductive-sensor|tevo-tornado|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10791" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10527" CreationDate="2019-08-11T19:59:37.050" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I manage to get the printer working, it was an hotend issue. Was clogged, replaced nozzle and working as expected. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you all for the guidance!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16976" LastActivityDate="2019-08-11T19:59:37.050" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10792" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10793" CreationDate="2019-08-11T20:18:15.967" Score="1" ViewCount="127" Body="&lt;p&gt;I heard about the certification program from &lt;a href=&quot;https://academy.autodesk.com/about-us/certification&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;autodesk website&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I prepare and write this certification exam as a student? I already started using fusion 360 about a month.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17272" LastActivityDate="2019-08-19T15:14:18.023" Title="How can I become a certified Fusion 360 user?" Tags="|3d-design|fusion360|autodesk|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10793" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10792" CreationDate="2019-08-11T20:41:41.387" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Start with registering at their &lt;a href=&quot;https://academy.autodesk.com/about-us/certification&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;website&lt;/a&gt; and go from there.  There is a &lt;a href=&quot;https://adsk-designacademy-content-live.s3.amazonaws.com/ACU_Fusion%20360_Exam%20Objectives.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;PDF&lt;/a&gt; of a list of things you have to have mastery in:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;SKETCHING&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Sketch Creation&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Create Dimensions&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Constraint selection and creation&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Edit a sketch&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Project Edges&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Edit a Sketch&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;DRAWING&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Creating a Drawing View, Base, Projected, Section, Detail&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Add Annotations&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Editing a Created View&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Edit Border and Titleblock&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;SCULPT&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Create a Form&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Edit a Form&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Thicken a Form&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;DIRECT MODELING&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Feature Deletion&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Press &amp;amp; Pull Tool&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;ASSEMBLY MODELING&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Create and Manage Top Level Assembly and Subassemblies&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Create a Component From a Body&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Align and Assembly Joints&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Interference&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Rigid Groups&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Motion Studies&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;ADVANCED MODELING&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Sweep and Loft&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Boundary Fill&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Split and Combine bodies&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;PART MODELING&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Create extrude features&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Apply Fillets and Chamfers&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Create complex hole features&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Create revolve features&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Create a pattern of features&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Create a shell feature&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Create Construction Planes and Axes&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Inspect command; measure, and section analysis&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16523" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2019-08-19T15:14:18.023" LastActivityDate="2019-08-19T15:14:18.023" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10794" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10789" CreationDate="2019-08-11T21:13:57.577" Score="0" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Not using a 12 V rated module &lt;em&gt;&amp;quot;on its own&amp;quot;&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using a 12 V/5 V optocoupler to try to connect 24 V to the 5 V circuit is running the optocoupler outside of its rating, meaning you will destroy it, either immediately or after a short time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;A properly rated one&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To shield the 5 V against the maximal 24 V from the probe without extra parts, you will need to use a 24 V/5 V optocoupler.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Trickery with voltage dividers&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With a 50 % &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Voltage_divider&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;voltage divider&lt;/a&gt; made from two properly rated resistors, you could limit the voltage to the optocoupler, which in turn would turn the 24 V signal into a 12 V signal, which would protect our optocoupler and the board beyond.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:29:41.667" LastActivityDate="2019-08-17T17:01:43.427" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10795" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6041" CreationDate="2019-08-12T02:51:10.940" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Technology has come to the rescue here. New printing surfaces are available that release PLA very easily.  I am using the WhamBam system.  A magnet is stuck to the AL bed. A flex steel sheet is placed on the magnet. The flexsteel has a PEX sheet stuck to it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After levelling the bed, a print is done normally. When done, the flex steel sheet is lifted off the magnet. After cooling a minute or two, give the steel a little flex across the two sides, and the piece pops right off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've posted a video at this Stack Exchange topic&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10176/printing-pla-on-pex-surface-is-heated-bed-needed&quot;&gt;Printing PLA on PEX surface - is heated bed needed?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16523" LastActivityDate="2019-08-12T02:51:10.940" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10796" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-08-12T09:23:09.270" Score="4" ViewCount="1040" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been having some issues with my Cocoon Create Model Maker/Wanhao Duplicator i3 Mini. The hotend doesn't get up to temperature. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I will go to any of the heating functions (start print, preheat, add filament, etc.) and it will begin to reheat the nozzle. The temperature rises until eventually, it stops at any number that is not the desired print temp and the screen freezes. Sometimes it will stop at 150&amp;nbsp;°C sometimes 180&amp;nbsp;°C. It all seems quite random but the screen is frozen when this happens. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If anyone had any thoughts it would be much appreciated. My last printer was abandoned due to a similar issue and it's incredibly frustrating.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17274" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-08-13T06:34:37.263" LastActivityDate="2020-02-25T22:28:22.193" Title="Wanhao Duplicator i3 Mini - Not reaching temperature -&gt; screen freezes" Tags="|hotend|wanhao|duplicator-i3-mini|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10797" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10781" CreationDate="2019-08-12T10:48:53.990" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Marlin 2.0 is still very much in development.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you face issues like this and you're certain you haven't introduced any typos,&#xA;try downloading the most current version of Marlin again (&lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/tree/bugfix-2.0.x&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Github&lt;/a&gt; -&gt; Download -&gt; Download zip).&#xA;Copy in your configuration files and try to compile.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the issue persists, you may try to use a version from a few days / weeks ago.&#xA;For this, select a previous commit from this &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/commits/bugfix-2.0.x&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;list&lt;/a&gt;, and press the &lt;code&gt;&amp;lt;&amp;gt;&lt;/code&gt; button to activate it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13171" LastActivityDate="2019-08-12T10:48:53.990" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10798" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10801" CreationDate="2019-08-12T12:03:33.250" Score="0" ViewCount="3000" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Problem&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My CR-10 printer seems to be trying to print the model 4 or 5 layers too low. This means that for the first few layers, the printing nozzle is forced against the bed, preventing extrusion until the print reaches higher layers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Outcome&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This results in the bottom part of the print having the internal structure visible and the printing head deteriorating. I had to remove the old nozzle because it was clogged up with what I believe to be some residue that was picked up during preceding prints.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mUfsT.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mUfsT.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;A print showing the structure inside the model because of missing layers&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;em&gt;note: On this print, the top part is almost-well printed. It cannot be seen in pictures, but I say &quot;almost&quot; because the well-printed part is still much thinner than expected. This is the result of my purposeful mis-leveling the bed so that the part where the printer &quot;homes&quot; is higher than the lower part. I did this to see if there was any obvious bending of the printing bed. Doesn't look like there is.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Fix attempts&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I have tried to re-level the bed multiple times, but it doesn't matter as the &quot;too low&quot; effect is independent from the location on the bed.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I have tried using the printer's built-in Z-offset but to no avail. This might be due to the fact that I control the print through Ultimaker Cura 4, so I tried looking for the Z-offset property in Ultimaker Cura and even though internet says it exists, I failed to find it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;History&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The printer used to work perfectly well and I do not remember having changed anything before the problem arose. I recently changed the nozzle and made sure to tighten it as high as possible but the Z-offset problem still persists.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12378" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-08-12T23:15:10.817" LastActivityDate="2019-08-12T23:15:10.817" Title="Printer head too low when printing" Tags="|z-axis|creality-cr-10|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10799" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10816" CreationDate="2019-08-12T18:03:16.770" Score="1" ViewCount="170" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am trying to print a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2755765&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;12 hole Ocarina&lt;/a&gt; I found on thingiverse. When printing I have to stop it around 25-30 layers because the edge of the shell is higher then the infill. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kMrn5.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kMrn5.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Example 1&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PVHAO.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PVHAO.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Example 2&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.codepile.net/pile/Z0Y3v986&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;G-Code of first 30 layers&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried changing the infill, wall size, speed and retraction settings to no avail. The settings of the example print were:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;100% infill&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;0.2mm layer height&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;40mm printing speed (average)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1mm shell thickness (results in 2 layers)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Automatic infill patern&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Printed at 210C with 3mm PLA (&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.conrad.nl/p/renkforce-pla300h1-filament-pla-kunststof-3-mm-grijs-1-kg-1093147&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;like this one&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Printed on a RF1000&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sliced with CuraEngine in Repetier-host V2.1.6.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know what might cause this and how I can prevent it from happening?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any help is greatly appreciated! :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14693" LastEditorUserId="14693" LastEditDate="2019-08-12T21:12:30.093" LastActivityDate="2019-08-18T22:15:28.807" Title="Raised shell edges on ocarina print. RF1000 sliced with Cura Engine" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|pla|g-code|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10800" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10798" CreationDate="2019-08-12T18:08:19.663" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Did you verify the Cura z-offset actually changed the corresponding G-Codes? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had the opposite problem on my RF1000. To fix the problem I added the following 2 lines to my start G-Codes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;M3001 ; Activate Z-Compensation &#xA;M206 Z-0.3 ; Set z offset 0.3mm closer to the nozzle&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first line was default in some example prints and is (as far as I know) only used by Renkforce printers. The second line moves the nozzle closer to the bed. In your case you'd have to move it further away and would need a positive Z value.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14693" LastActivityDate="2019-08-12T18:08:19.663" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10801" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10798" CreationDate="2019-08-12T21:41:17.420" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;TLDR; Make sure the bed isn't too high, the z-axis should reach the end-of-rail indicator without forcing against the bed&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So it appears I simply misunderstood (or mis-assumed) the way my printer works.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For some reason I believed that it was the printing head, while auto-homeing, that was defining the &quot;point zero&quot; for the z axis. Didn't realize, even after disassembled the whole head block, that there was no such mechanism built in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While zeroing it before starting my on-going print I noticed the &quot;click&quot; of the end-of-rail switch for the z-axis while the head was forcing against the bed, desperately trying to reach that damn switch. Then it all clicked together ...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;What happened:&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For some reason a few weeks ago I decided to level the bed by raising the z-axis by spinning the its driving wheel &lt;em&gt;by hand&lt;/em&gt;, taking it very far from the end-of-rail stopper. Ever since then I've been leveling the bed this way, not realizing I was preventing the head from reaching end-of-rail without having to force against the bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So yeah, just took the bed as far down as possible, made the printer auto-home and leveled the bed from there, as it should be done, and my print is now going very well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12378" LastActivityDate="2019-08-12T21:41:17.420" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10802" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6046" CreationDate="2019-08-14T03:13:31.510" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can use OpenSCAD, as stated in the accepted answer. &#xA;Here is a version of that script that works for Windows for anyone who needs it, as I did.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;# Change height and width to the desired output image dimensions, in pixels.&#xA;# The path to openscad.exe may also have to be adjusted based on your installation.&#xA;&#xA;height=1080&#xA;width=1080&#xA;&#xA;for i in *.stl; do&#xA;  T=__tmp__&lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$i&#xA;  b=`basename &quot;$&lt;/span&gt;i&quot;`&#xA;  echo import\(\&quot;./&lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$i\&quot;\)\; &amp;gt; &quot;$&lt;/span&gt;T&quot;&#xA;  C:/'Program Files'/OpenSCAD/openscad.exe -o &quot;&lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$b&quot;.png --autocenter --viewall --imgsize=$&lt;/span&gt;width,&lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$height &quot;$&lt;/span&gt;T&quot;&#xA;  rm &quot;$T&quot;&#xA;done&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17236" LastActivityDate="2019-08-14T03:13:31.510" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10803" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-08-14T03:38:27.310" Score="4" ViewCount="4105" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a dual-extruder printer with a separate heating element for each head, thus able to combine materials in a single print job even if they don't share a single temperature range.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now the question: When (outside of using expensive dedicated support material or doing multicolor prints for aesthetic reasons) is this actually useful?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of common printable filaments (PLA, PETG, TPU, ABS, nylon):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do some of these materials work well (which is to say, substantially better than just doing a single-material print with same-material supports) as breakaway supports for others?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Can some of these materials be dissolved in household solvents that don't harm others?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do some of these materials adhere to each other strongly enough (and have sufficiently similar profiles in how they shrink on cooling) to reliably generate finished pieces comprising of both? (Especially relevant for anything+TPU, where one might want to generate a design with some soft or rubbery components).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16371" LastActivityDate="2019-08-19T01:18:42.887" Title="How do PLA, PETG, TPU, ABS and/or nylon work together in a single print?" Tags="|filament|multi-material|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10804" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10779" CreationDate="2019-08-14T11:45:35.103" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This looks like Z axis offset is set incorrectly. That &lt;em&gt;should&lt;/em&gt; come with an appropriate setting from the factory (for my printer it's -.85mm), but that setting can get lost a few ways; you can either reenter the factory setting (if your print head hasn't been opened up), or recalibrate -- but if doing the latter, &lt;em&gt;be sure the nozzle is clean&lt;/em&gt;, or the calibration routine can &lt;em&gt;cause&lt;/em&gt; the problem you're trying to solve!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;If You've Never Reassembled Your Toolhead&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Check that the settings from the QA record are still installed.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your printer came with a sheet of paper including all the measurements that were taken when the calibration prints that came with it were created. If you updated firmware with several versions of Cura LE between the Pro's release and the fix for the relevant bug, the update would have cleared the EEPROM with those settings. A good place to start is to put them back in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The full set of settings isn't just Z axis offset, but also offset between the two heads, and backlash measurements -- but if you lost Z axis offset, you're likely to have lost all of them, so it's worth going over the full set.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;If You Have Reassembled Your Toolhead&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Clean the nozzle, and rerun automatic calibration.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;Clean the nozzle&quot;, that is, by bringing it up to temperature and using the brillo pad that came in the little toolkit with the printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I say &quot;automatic calibration&quot;, I'm not referring to the leveling routine that runs with every print, but the longer routine that's accessed under &quot;Measure automatically&quot; button in the backlash or nozzle offset &quot;Advanced Settings&quot; LCD menu.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The automatic calibration routines determine when the head is in contact with the calibration cube via electrical conductivity. If there's anything on the head that can stop a circuit from being created the moment it touches the cube, that's going to throw off the calculated locations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(BTW, if your printer doesn't warn you on the LCD display that the head should be clean and unloaded when running this operation, you're probably on old firmware; update Cura LE, and let it upload new firmware for you).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The test print at &lt;a href=&quot;https://download.lulzbot.com/TAZ/TAZ_Pro/v1.0.3/sample_prints/calibration/vernier_dim-test.gcode&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://download.lulzbot.com/TAZ/TAZ_Pro/v1.0.3/sample_prints/calibration/vernier_dim-test.gcode&lt;/a&gt; (which is perhaps more compact than the one that came with your printer, if you got one of the very first units off the assembly line) pairs with the instructions/documentation in steps 15-19 at &lt;a href=&quot;https://ohai.lulzbot.com/project/calibration-taz-pro/quiver/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://ohai.lulzbot.com/project/calibration-taz-pro/quiver/&lt;/a&gt;. That said, the Z-axis measurements are mostly pertinent for the very beginning of step 15, measuring the height of the skirt around the print before it starts. (You'll want to either pause or cancel the print to remove the skirt for measurement in your calipers; the sample gcode delay isn't long enough to do it carefully otherwise!).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;And Don't Be Afraid To Call Support&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Customer service from folks who know their stuff and are around evenings and weekends are part of what you're paying for when you buy a Lulzbot. The above is taken from my experience diagnosing quality issues on a TAZ Pro, but support knows what they're doing much better than I do; don't be shy about taking advantage!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16371" LastEditorUserId="16371" LastEditDate="2019-08-14T13:57:45.817" LastActivityDate="2019-08-14T13:57:45.817" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10805" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10803" CreationDate="2019-08-14T13:18:59.790" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The answers are   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;yes&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;yes&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;probably&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which is to say, if you only want to use MaterialNumberTwo for disposable supports, then you should be fine. Presumably the slicer software is material-aware and adjusts the feed so the layer heights are the same for both materials. &lt;strong&gt;BUT&lt;/strong&gt;be careful that the support material isn't higher-temp than the object material, or supports which start from the object rather than the bed may cause local melting or distortion when the first layer is deposited on the cooler-melt material. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But if you want to try to intertwine two materials for the final product, then certainly bonding will be a major risk, as will shrinkage during cooling (not to mention the risk of melting the lower-temp material while depositing the higher-temp material on top of it!).  If at all possible I'd recommend printing such parts separately and fitting them together post-print. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2191" LastActivityDate="2019-08-14T13:18:59.790" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10806" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10786" CreationDate="2019-08-15T00:03:07.097" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Turns out there were multiple faulty stepper drivers, if the one stepper driver was plugged in, it would operate, but would draw too much current from the pins on the Arduino causing all the other drivers to receive weak signals.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is why swapping them around still only worked on the X-axis, if it was only one driver, I would have figured it out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So if you get a very weak signal on the stepper driver step pin, even when it's pulled out, it's probably because of one of the other stepper drivers shorting the whole rail.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4225" LastActivityDate="2019-08-15T00:03:07.097" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10807" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-08-15T03:27:37.880" Score="3" ViewCount="443" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was working on upgrading my Anet A8 to a RAMPS 1.4 running on Marlin. I had everything ready to go and had plugged it in to see if it worked. It seemed to be working so I tried to home it and my y end stop was not on. The printer ground for a second and before I could stop it the whole thing shut off. Now it won’t seem to turn back on. I had originally though it was an issue with the power supply, as I plugged it into my computer and it worked fine. But now when I plug it into my computer the backlight comes on and it shuts off. On the Arduino Mega the only lights that come on are two red ones. Does anyone have any idea what may have caused this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16549" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-08-16T06:59:36.990" LastActivityDate="2019-08-16T06:59:36.990" Title="Arduino Mega and RAMPS 1.4 not responding" Tags="|arduino-mega-2650|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10808" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="198" CreationDate="2019-08-15T11:58:24.203" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Adding to the other answers:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;ALWAYS power-off the printer completely and make sure it is not receiving any power from any source (could be receiving power from USB after you turned the power supply off).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Avoid loose wires, and before powering the printer on make sure every wire is connected in the right place. Loose wires can cause damage even if not powered if they get under the PCBs, where they can cause shorts. I fried an Arduino Mega this way.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Never mix between 12v and 5v supply/output wires. Connecting an output wire of the wrong voltage will usually cause damage only to the part receiving power, while connecting a supply wire of the wrong voltage can cause severe damage to many components at once.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Keep all wires organised. That will help you understand which wire is connected to what quickly, and will help you do what is mentioned in #2 and #3.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7362" LastActivityDate="2019-08-15T11:58:24.203" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10809" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6355" CreationDate="2019-08-15T23:10:27.213" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've experimented a lot with priming/swiping in the G-code prologue, as a result of realizing from &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/8643/11157&quot;&gt;this question and answer&lt;/a&gt; how important it is to get it right. The key points are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Don't go back and forth; you risk picking back up material you already got rid of. Just swipe in one direction.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Don't overextrude. This can lead to ending with pressure remaining (especially for printers with bowden extruders) after the swipe/prime line is finished. It's fine if your extrusion rate is so low that adhesion doesn't start til halfway down the line.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Slow movement with fan on is good.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And with that said, here's what I use with my Ender 3:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;M106 ; Max fan to discourage ooze sticking to nozzle&#xA;G28 ; Home all axes&#xA;G92 E0 ; Reset Extruder&#xA;G1 Z2.0 F3000 ; Move Z Axis up little to prevent scratching&#xA;G1 X0.1 Y20 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move to start position&#xA;G1 X0.1 Y200.0 Z0.3 F750.0 E18 ; Draw priming line&#xA;G92 E0 ; Reset Extruder&#xA;G1 Z2.0 F3000 ; Move Z Axis up little to prevent scratching&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also undo all but 1mm of the filament retraction at the end of my epilogue (custom end) G-code, to leave the printer in a state comparable to having freshly loaded filament. If you don't undo the retraction here, the low extrusion rate in the prologue might not be enough to prime the next time you print, but increasing it would over-prime in the case where you're dealing with freshly loaded filament.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-08-16T05:56:07.657" LastActivityDate="2019-08-16T05:56:07.657" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10810" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10268" CreationDate="2019-08-16T09:41:33.300" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cura can do this. It's a bit convoluted though. Here's what you need to do:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Load your model / scene in the build plate.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Load an additional cube and make it as big as the entire build plate so that it overlaps with everything (in the preferences you may need to disable &quot;Ensure that models are kept apart).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Select the cube and go to the per-object settings tool.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Change the cube's mesh type to &quot;modify settings for infill&quot;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;For the cube, set Wall Line Count to 0, Top/Bottom Thickness to 0 and Top Layers to 1. This effectively makes the cube add one additional layer on the top side of all infill volumes.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;For the cube, set the Top/Bottom Speed to your desired speed for the one slower layer.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;(Optional) In the normal settings panel on the right, set the number of top layers to be one less, so that you get the same number of top layers again.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9717" LastActivityDate="2019-08-16T09:41:33.300" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10812" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10789" CreationDate="2019-08-17T15:18:47.503" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;You can safely use the module with 24V.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The input side shows a red LED, optocoupler and 1k resistor in series. The LED and optocoupler probably have a voltage drop in the neighbourhood of 3.1-3.5&amp;nbsp;V put together, so for a 12&amp;nbsp;V input you will get a current of approximately 9&amp;nbsp;mA-.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a 24 V input voltage the increased current will cause a slightly higher voltage drop, but even if the voltage drop remains as low as 3.1&amp;nbsp;V the current will still only be 21&amp;nbsp;mA. This is well within the rating of the optocoupler (similar optocouplers are often rated for 60&amp;nbsp;mA) and slightly pushing the rating of the LED (similar LEDs are usually rated for 20&amp;nbsp;mA) but it will probably be fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For extra peace of mind you could connect an additional resistor in series with the input. The &quot;ideal&quot; value (that is, to keep the current identical to that at 12&amp;nbsp;V) would be 1.3&amp;nbsp;kΩ, though any small value resistor (above 100&amp;nbsp;Ω) would be fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastActivityDate="2019-08-17T15:18:47.503" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10815" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10799" CreationDate="2019-08-18T11:34:50.390" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Managed to solve it by lowering the temperature to 190C. I also lowered the infill down to 25%. Thanks for the advice!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I posted the make with results and settings on &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/make:695806&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;thingiverse&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14693" LastActivityDate="2019-08-18T11:34:50.390" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10816" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10799" CreationDate="2019-08-18T22:15:28.807" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think the solution in your self-answer is just a partial mitigation for an underlying problem, and your expectations for output quality are way too low.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the pictures in the question, there's serious overextrusion and stringing going on. The stringing could be caused by a secondary problem (bad/insufficient retraction settings), but heavy overextrusion will cause there to be extreme residual pressure left between the extruder gear and the nozzle (especially in a bowden setup, though it's not clear what printer you're using or if it has a bowden tube) that retraction will be unlikely to sufficiently relieve, so it's also a characteristic consequence of overextrusion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As Pᴀᴜʟsᴛᴇʀ2 noted in a comment, having the filament diameter set to 1.75 mm while your printer actually uses 3 mm filament could cause this. Cura (especially CuraEngine invoked via command line rather than the GUI) is particularly bad about getting this wrong if you don't pass the options in exactly the right way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that lowering the infill percentage as you did would help get &lt;em&gt;somewhat&lt;/em&gt; decent results with serious overextrusion, since the excess material has somewhere to go (into the unfilled part of the infill region). But you'll still be getting really bad (what I would call unacceptably bad) prints compared to what you could/should get.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2019-08-18T22:15:28.807" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10818" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10803" CreationDate="2019-08-19T01:18:42.887" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have printed ABS on top of PLA and it has bonded well.  It was simple, then &quot;campaign&quot;-style buttons with Prusament Galaxy Black on the bottom and HatchBox white ABS on top.  There was no tendency to warp, as I would expect if the ABS were shrinking more than the PLA.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I expected this to not work, but I needed white on black and these were the filaments I had.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2082" LastActivityDate="2019-08-19T01:18:42.887" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10819" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4329" CreationDate="2019-08-19T01:33:42.950" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This looks as if there is a side-to-side force being generated as Z is changed.  Ideally, the X or Y position is determined by the smooth rods, which should bear any force, not the threaded rod.  The threaded rod should cause no motion except upward and downward.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the rod is bent, but the rod is lightly constrained, then the top, being the free end, will draw a circle.  The bottom is constrained by the motor.  The middle is constrained by the nut, so the top would wander.  If the threaded rod is perfectly straight, and the stepper motor axis and the nut are perfectly aligned, the top would spin without movement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the rod is bent and the nut is very tight, there may be a twisting force exerted by the nut, which could cause movement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Everything is a tradeoff between tightness and looseness, between precision components and the reality of alignment errors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You asked if the shaft coupling is too tight.  Maybe.  Try removing everything except the motor, coupling, and the threaded rod.  Does the rod fall exactly where the nut would be?  If not, it isn't aligned correctly.  Incorrect alignment can be mitigated by a flexible coupling.  It looks like you are using a Lovejoy coupling with a plaster spider.  Depending on how tightly the spider fits, a Lovejoy coupling can be tight or loose.  I see a lot of machines with the one-piece coupling and a spiral-cut joining region.  THis might be a good alternative, but they tend to take up more space than a lovejoy coupling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because Z-axis motion is pretty slow, it is unlikely to be a z-axis vibration issue.  You may have changed the resonant frequencies enough to cause some other problem, but I don't think it is related to the problem in the photograph.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2082" LastActivityDate="2019-08-19T01:33:42.950" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10820" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10822" CreationDate="2019-08-19T10:04:58.590" Score="1" ViewCount="517" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've tried to remix this model: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:90933&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:90933&lt;/a&gt; (Bauhaus chess set) by scaling it down and inserting little magnet holes into the pieces' underside. My SCAD file looks as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;difference() { &#xA;&#xA;    scale([0.5,0.5,0.5]) import(&quot;Bauhaus2Set.stl&quot;);&#xA;&#xA;    translate([ 6, 11  ,0]) cylinder(h=20.5,r=2.5,center=true,$fn=20); // WTH?&#xA;&#xA;    // King/Queen&#xA;    translate([ 6, 11  ,0]) cylinder(h=3.5,r=2.5,center=true,&lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$fn=20);&#xA;    translate([-6, 11  ,0]) cylinder(h=3.5,r=2.5,center=true,$&lt;/span&gt;fn=20);&#xA;&#xA;    // Rooks&#xA;    translate([ 6,-11.5,0]) cylinder(h=3.5,r=2.5,center=true,&lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$fn=20);&#xA;    translate([-6,-11.5,0]) cylinder(h=3.5,r=2.5,center=true,$&lt;/span&gt;fn=20);&#xA;&#xA;[...]&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note the third line with &quot;WTH?&quot; - I've done quite some trial-and-error, and if I remove that line, then I don't get any subtracted holes anymore when I render the whole thing (F6). In preview (F5), the holes are always present, but in the final render, I need to include the larger subtracted cylinder or it won't work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The STL file seems to be fine in itself, what's going on here?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14780" LastActivityDate="2019-08-20T02:36:35.717" Title="OpenSCAD weirdness with imported STL" Tags="|stl|openscad|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10821" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10209" CreationDate="2019-08-19T10:50:33.727" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The nozzle was not seated properly&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having failed to identify the problem with my current mods installed on the printer, I decided to remove everything and return the printer to factory condition to identify the problems. In particular this included replacing the all-metal hotend, and I took the opportunity to replace the insulation on the heater block too. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On removing the insulation from around my heater block, I discovered a mass of burned-on plastic that had oozed out from around the thread of the nozzle and collected under the insulation, showing that it clearly was not screwed in tight enough. After thoroughly cleaning out the heater block, replacing the insulation and reinstalling the nozzle - and ensuring it was tightly seated against the tube - I have been able to print without issue. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12718" LastActivityDate="2019-08-19T10:50:33.727" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10822" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10820" CreationDate="2019-08-19T15:36:13.297" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is interesting that the WTH line and the next line both should remove a cylinder of the same diameter from the same location.  Only the height is different.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It could be interesting to remove the first King/Queen line and see if there is a change.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Have you checked the STL file with another tool, other than OpenSCAD?  There may be a kink in the STL that confuses the geometry engine in OpenSCAD.  The first difference could be catching the kink, and the second one carving out the magnet body in the bottom.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2082" LastActivityDate="2019-08-19T15:36:13.297" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10823" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10" CreationDate="2019-08-19T23:42:26.870" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;ABS would be &lt;em&gt;toxic&lt;/em&gt;, I believe (contains BPA I think) so that wouldn't be a good choice. I think PETG is safe plus UV resistant so that would be a good one. I'm not sure about PLA or other materials.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17330" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2019-08-20T05:53:49.330" LastActivityDate="2019-08-20T05:53:49.330" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10824" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10820" CreationDate="2019-08-20T02:36:35.717" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I see you've accepted cmm's answer, but I'd still like to take a stab at the mechanism of the failure based on your comment on it:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Excellent explanation, thanks. The &quot;WTH&quot; cylinder is centered on the queen piece, and that has a sphere with lots of faces on top. So it looks like the &quot;kink&quot; is inside the queen where the sphere and the base cube overlap, and by accident, my trial-and-error removing of cylinders also removed just the right spot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My guess is that if you look at the triangle set of the STL file, you'll find the interior of the queen contains the parts of the cube that are inside the sphere and the parts of the sphere that are inside the cube; they may not even be clipped to meet each other properly where they cross each other's surfaces. Sadly there are lots of tools producing invalid STL files like this. The longer cylinder is probaly sufficient to overlap with where the cube and sphere cross, forcing OpenSCAD to break down the model in that region and recompute the mesh where the components overlap. Without that recomputation, the differences likely end up interacting with just the &quot;sphere part&quot; of the STL mesh.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This explanation also seems to be consistent with the description of the thing on thingiverse:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I much preferred the style of Bauhaus set that TeamTeaUSA's designed, but there was a lot of fiddling with the queen and the knight wouldn't print without supports. So I nestled the queen's sphere further into the body so it would print standing up, added supports for the knight and plated the whole thing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;where it looks like the creator took someone else's STL files and moved parts around to create an overlap, likely without proper tooling that could regenerate a valid mesh.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2019-08-20T02:36:35.717" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10825" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10828" CreationDate="2019-08-20T13:23:04.320" Score="6" ViewCount="508" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've had my anycubic kossel for a good while now, and whenever I print something, it seems like it falls out of calibration very quickly. The biggest example is that the prints tend to scale up as the print progresses, or maybe the print starts to drift, and comes out slanted. This seems to never happen in any similarly priced XYZ printers. Why is this? Do XYZ printers just have an inherent advantage over deltas? Perhaps Deltas have some precision loss?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="199" LastActivityDate="2019-08-20T18:33:18.483" Title="Why are delta bots so finicky?" Tags="|delta|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10826" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10322" CreationDate="2019-08-20T13:39:23.843" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It could also be backlash in the system. Your belts aren't tight enough. Apparently the Y belt is not tight enough. That's a pretty awesome effect though. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12857" LastActivityDate="2019-08-20T13:39:23.843" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10827" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10825" CreationDate="2019-08-20T13:43:06.703" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;(The XYZ Printers are called Cartesian Printers)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Delta printers are harder to get right, because they require precision parts. The arms have to be EXACTLY the same length, the frame must be square, the universal joints must have no slop. You should check to see if any of the universal joints need replacing, and that the length of the arms are equal. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Deltas however are some of the fastest robotic platforms due to the low mass of the end effector.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12857" LastActivityDate="2019-08-20T13:43:06.703" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10828" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10825" CreationDate="2019-08-20T18:33:18.483" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;user77232's points are valid but I have done several things to mitigate these issues on my Anycubic Deltas. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, both of my deltas have linear slide bearings. If your's has the bearing trucks that run in the extrusion slots this will lead to less precise operation and also is a source of wear over time. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second, be sure that the end stop micro switches are positioned precisely and that their fasteners are tight. You may also want to use a mild strength Loctite on their fasteners. When operated at high extrusion rates all components are subject to significant vibration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Third, I found that the universal joints are also a significant source of play. I remedied this to some degree by placing rubber bands across the arms at both ends so that the play was minimized. The rubber bands should be wrapped fairly tightly to perform this function. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Forth, I try to tune the belt tension so that all of the belts have the same note when plucked. There are smart phone apps that will help do this. I believe that one that I use is from Gates, a premium manufacturer of drive belts. Also, over time belts stretch so you will need to retension them periodically.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fifth, run through the firmware calibration process regularly for both positional accuracy and for filament extrusion and retraction variables.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't use my deltas much any more since purchasing a popular XYZ type printer but it cost me three times what they did and it still has issues from time to time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6279" LastActivityDate="2019-08-20T18:33:18.483" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10830" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-08-21T09:04:02.277" Score="2" ViewCount="4042" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have  a print I need to make holes in.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I have read some other threads where the answers was in short, &quot;don't, print the holes&quot;, and &quot;make sure to make the hole from the top or bottom&quot;.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;The problem is I need the hole in the side of a print with about 1 mm walls.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The holes I need is to run a USB cable in and a few to hold 3 mm LEDs.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;One of the holes needs to be 10 mm.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is my best option?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I read that there is a risk it cracks, so I was thinking maybe I can use a soldering iron for the smaller holes?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;That will melt the plastic and create nice smooth walls, right? Less risk of cracks?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;The piece will not be loaded in any way, it's just holdin it's own weight.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I never anticipated that it would be an issue to drill holes in prints. If I had known it I might have tried more to change the print before ordering it.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;(I don't have a printer to make a new one with.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Note:&lt;/strong&gt; The part has &lt;em&gt;already&lt;/em&gt; been printed. This is a question about post-printing processing, &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; modelling for a new print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17344" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2019-08-24T18:47:35.720" LastActivityDate="2019-08-29T20:43:49.467" Title="Make holes in PLA print" Tags="|pla|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10831" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10830" CreationDate="2019-08-21T15:04:54.613" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You're going to have to drill those holes. The plastic will melt if you drill too quickly. If at all possible, use a slow speed drill, a hand drill, or wrap a cloth around a drill bit and twist it with your hand. If you go too fast, the part will melt. If you press to hard the part will break.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once the hole has been drilled you will need to reinforce it with a metal/plastic tube of the required diameter. Press the tube into the hole. I don't know what your wall thickness is, but try to ensure the tube is the same length.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If at all possible you should get flanged tubes like these from mc master car:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zh0UT.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zh0UT.png&quot; alt=&quot;Flanged tube insert&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The parts with the 1/2 inch inner diameter and 5/8 outer diameter should fit your 10 mm requirement. The rest is up to you. Go to mcmaster.com/inserts scroll down to &quot;Other Inserts&quot; then &quot;Tube and tube fittings&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12857" LastEditorUserId="12857" LastEditDate="2019-08-25T03:28:38.873" LastActivityDate="2019-08-25T03:28:38.873" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10832" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10830" CreationDate="2019-08-21T15:12:48.347" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;3D-printed parts should not be so fragile that they crack from drilling holes. However, the material will melt if you drill fast, so go very slow. Also, they're usually not printed with solid infill. If you drill a hole in a thin wall (typically around 1.6 mm or less) then the sides of the hole should be solid just from the printed wall thickness, but if you drill a hole through something thicker, you'll create an opening into the sparse infill space in the object's interior. This &lt;em&gt;might&lt;/em&gt; affect the strength of the part and will allow air/water/etc. to enter the interior, which probably doesn't matter for your usage case, but it's something to be aware of too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A soldering iron set to around 200°C is a perfectly good way to make holes too. It's harder to control the precise location and size of the hole, but if anything it will strengthen the part.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For future reference, it's a much better idea to just include holes in your design to be printed. As long as they're either round (as opposed to flattened ovals/square/etc.) or small, pringing holes horizontally should not be a problem. Vertically oriented is better if they'll be under load, but for passing wires or mounting things not under serious load either should be fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2019-08-21T15:12:48.347" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10833" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10830" CreationDate="2019-08-21T16:53:46.160" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Drilling in thin walls might be very tricky, you can easily get holes bigger than anticipated, especially when there is infill in between walls (less than 100&amp;nbsp;%, as the drill may shift position of the internal infill structure). Note also that printed material can split very easy.  You can also solder holes into the walls. There are special tools available on the market, e.g. this one can create fine or big holes, I've used it for quite some time:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/t2fyP.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Modifi3d soldering tool&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/t2fyP.png&quot; alt=&quot;Modifi3d soldering tool&quot; title=&quot;Modifi3d soldering tool&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-08-22T08:21:03.960" LastActivityDate="2019-08-22T08:21:03.960" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10834" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10830" CreationDate="2019-08-21T17:55:44.690" Score="1" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Drilling Works in PLA&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Drilling is not difficult.  As others have said, a slow drill wins the race.  For some holes, I hold the drill by hand (or in a hand-help chuck) and use it as the rotary knife it really is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It will be better if you put some support under the hole.  It also may help to put a layer of masking tape over the front, marked with the location.  As with any critical drilling, start with an undersized drill and expand with another drill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;A Melting or Hybrid Approach May Be Better&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since this is printed plastic, thin walled, and nicely meltable, I would drill a hole undersided by a mm or two and then expand it by melting the plastic with a hot soldering iron.  If you gush up the edges enough, you will accomplish a solid wall, which will be stronger than a separated front and back surface.  Since the gushed up hole will probably not be circular, and may have lobes that are too small an opening, I would do another pass with the proper sized drill.  If the plastic is still a little soft, you can use the back of the drill as a forming tool to expand the opening to be the right size.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;What I Would Try First&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PROTIP or HACK, you decide:  For making small changes in PLA parts, I have placed them in water heated to 160-170 degrees F.  This softens everything a little, and you can make small changes.  You might be able to punch a hole with an ice pick and finish it with the back of a drill.  If the ice pick doesn't make a hole, heat it with a hot-air gun (or hair dryer).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2082" LastActivityDate="2019-08-21T17:55:44.690" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10835" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10838" CreationDate="2019-08-21T18:12:22.117" Score="3" ViewCount="2738" Body="&lt;p&gt;During the assembly of my printer, I accidentally shorted the RAMPS 1.4 board, looking for a replacement I found the RAMPS 1.6 which would eliminate the need for a MOSFET power module.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is, could I simply replace the RAMPS 1.4 for the 1.6 or should I make any other modification?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My printer is a Prusa i3 Graber Clone running Marlin&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17349" LastEditorUserId="17349" LastEditDate="2019-08-22T14:43:31.093" LastActivityDate="2019-08-22T21:07:33.783" Title="Replacing RAMPS 1.4 for 1.6" Tags="|ramps-1.4|electronics|ramps|ramps-1.6|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10837" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-08-22T10:43:21.737" Score="1" ViewCount="533" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to kindly ask for some advice. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've got 2 extruders and 2 nozzles, they are working fine. I'm printing from Ultimaker Cura 4.1 generated files. I have problems with temperature stabilization when changing extruders.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What happens is this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Prints from one of the extruders (E0 first). Then it goes to switching to E1, so it heats E1 and cools down E0 (to 175&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C, configurable in Ultimaker Cura). Very quickly temperatures are established, but Marlin seems to have problem seeing it (Possibly they are always +/- 1 degree above or under desired temp. I decreased Time Hysteresis, and increased temperature gaps but still facing the same problem. Sometimes changing from one nozzle to the other one takes &lt;strong&gt;40 minutes&lt;/strong&gt;!. After the temperature is finally stabilized it prints correctly. But another change from E1 to E0 will cause another next 20-40 minutes of waiting. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does someone knows how to properly set or what should I set - since changing Hysteresis seems to not change anything (even if changed from 10 to 2) Maybe some different parameter is for me to use?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've decreased residency time and still nothing. I've got 4 seconds now in the configuration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've tried PID tuning with &lt;code&gt;M303&lt;/code&gt;, but no changes with this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Configuration looks like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#define TEMP_RESIDENCY_TIME 4 &#xA;#define TEMP_WINDOW 5 &#xA;#define TEMP_HYSTERESIS 6&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But still this waits for too long for &lt;code&gt;M109&lt;/code&gt; to stabilize.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ultimaker Cura changing code looks like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;G92 E0&#xA;T1&#xA;G92 E0&#xA;M105&#xA;M109 S190&#xA;M104 T0 S180&#xA;G1 F1200 E9.5&#xA;G1 F600 Z4.3&#xA;G0 F7200 X161.114 Y156.121&#xA;G0 X159.678 Y157.201&#xA;M104 S200&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Probably changing all the &lt;code&gt;M109&lt;/code&gt; to &lt;code&gt;M104&lt;/code&gt; would correct this but this is nasty workaround. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Printer is modified Tevo Tarantula.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17361" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-08-22T20:54:17.537" LastActivityDate="2019-08-22T20:54:17.537" Title="Too long time to wait for M109 to stabilize when changing extruders" Tags="|extruder|nozzle|dual-nozzle|tevo-tarantula|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10838" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10835" CreationDate="2019-08-22T13:48:17.210" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;RAMPS 1.6 is very similar to RAMPS 1.4. Most, if not all, of the changes are hardware improvements, without making the core functionality different. Looking at the incremental changes between versions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To quote from RepRapWiki: &lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/wiki/RAMPS_1.5&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;RAMPS 1.5&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The RAMPS 1.5 is a variation of the popular RAMPS boards that, like&#xA;all other RAMPS boards, is plugged into an Arduino Mega for operation.&#xA;The layout of the RAMPS 1.5 is virtually identical to that of the&#xA;RAMPS 1.4. The only real difference between the two are the MOSFETs&#xA;and the fuses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To quote from RepRapWiki: &lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/wiki/RAMPS_1.6&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;RAMPS 1.6&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The RAMPS 1.6 is the second RAMPS iteration released by&#xA;BIQU/BIGTREETECH. It replaces the original green power connector with&#xA;a pair of screw terminals, adds a larger heatsink over the MOSFETS,&#xA;and has a larger bed MOSFET. It maintains the surface-mounted fuses&#xA;and flush MOSFETS of the RAMPS 1.5.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, the positions of the D1 and D2 diodes have been swapped from the&#xA;positions in RAMPS 1.4, the D1 diode is now the diode closest to fuse&#xA;F2. The same is true for RAMPS 1.5, also manufactured by&#xA;BIQU/BIGTREETECH.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, in short, yes, the RAMPS 1.6 &lt;em&gt;should&lt;/em&gt; be a direct plug in replacement for the RAMPS 1.4.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, you &lt;em&gt;may&lt;/em&gt; be able to salvage your RAMPS 1.4, if you can locate the part that has given up the &amp;quot;magic smoke&amp;quot;. It could just be a blown capacitor, or diode. There have been &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/search?q=RAMPS&quot;&gt;a number of questions&lt;/a&gt; relating to that, so it might be worth searching for answers here, on SE.3DP&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is probably also worth reading &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/5623/ramps-1-4-1-5-or-1-6&quot;&gt;RAMPS 1.4, 1.5 or 1.6?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Additional links&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An interesting video, where a variety of RAMPS 1.4 boards are compared, is the first of a series, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pWdm_KwDvd4&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;RAMPS series 1 of 5 - Intro and board comparisons&lt;/a&gt; - although beware the loud music...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is also a RAMPS 1.6 Plus, and a RAMPS 1.4.2 which might be worth considering. I wrote up about these, briefly, &lt;em&gt;(disclosure) in my personal blog&lt;/em&gt;, a couple of years ago: &lt;a href=&quot;https://gr33nonline.wordpress.com/2016/11/16/3d-printer-control-boards/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;3D Printer control boards&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Footnote&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; Such as &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/3417/how-drastic-is-reversing-the-polarity-of-the-power-supply-to-a-ramps-board&quot;&gt;How drastic is reversing the polarity of the power supply to a RAMPS board?&lt;/a&gt;, which might be relevant in your case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4762" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:29:41.667" LastActivityDate="2019-08-22T21:07:33.783" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10839" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10841" CreationDate="2019-08-22T15:09:10.833" Score="4" ViewCount="1367" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to print a supporting base which will house the spindle for an electrostatic rotor. It's basically just a truncated cone with a hole down it's center to house the spindle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For reasons that I cannot fathom, Ultimaker Cura keeps on adding an unrequested top/bottom layer (color-coded yellow in the screenshots) inside this hole, so instead of a single hollow cylinder of 10&amp;nbsp;mm depth, the result is a hole only a few millimeters deep with another hollow cylinder behind it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is the intended model, note the open space for the hole at the top.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tUdBC.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tUdBC.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is the inner view of the hole being printed as expected:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kXV5x.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kXV5x.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, here is a layer view of the print a few millimeters from the final top layer with the unrequested top/bottom layer that covers the spindle hole:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Yd8mn.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Yd8mn.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The STL file is on &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/gearoid-murphy/3dprints/blob/master/spindle.stl&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Github&lt;/a&gt; (with a built-in viewer).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can anyone help me understand why this is happening?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17363" LastEditorUserId="12562" LastEditDate="2019-08-22T20:59:29.617" LastActivityDate="2021-04-28T18:17:43.893" Title="Ultimaker Cura is adding redundant top/bottom layers" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|slicing|troubleshooting|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10840" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10842" CreationDate="2019-08-22T16:07:37.677" Score="3" ViewCount="835" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to print a lemon squeezer and I would prefer to use PET-G. I don't know if it is safe to use, because lemons contain lots of citric acid. Does it dissolve PETG? I haven't found an answer anywhere on the Internet. There are generally few things that dissolve PETG. These are aromatic compounds like toluene, phenol etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know my model will be food safe, as PETG is food safe, I'm using one without a dye and my nozzle is made out of steel, not brass. I think bacteria growth inside little gaps/between layers is impossible, because the citric acid is quite strong and will kill nearly all of the germs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16798" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-08-22T20:33:02.657" LastActivityDate="2019-08-23T19:16:16.170" Title="Does acid dissolve PETG 3D prints?" Tags="|3d-models|petg|food|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10841" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10839" CreationDate="2019-08-22T16:12:59.467" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It would appear that your model does not conform properly to STL standards. I base this conclusion on a couple of factors. When I loaded the model into Simplify3D slicer, it displayed fine, but when sliced, displayed nothing. Using the onboard repair feature, it presented the entire model as being composed of non-manifold surfaces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Meshmixer's Analysis/Inspector feature also highlighted the entire model as flawed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another observation is that there is an extraordinary amount of facets/triangles/faces to this model. Nearly three-quarters of a million triangles for something that should be much simpler.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The most recent version of Prusa Slicer 2.0 presents an error message indicating that no layers were detected. This is peculiar indeed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All of the above points to a problem with the source file or the software used to create it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please consider to add to your post the program you used or the source of the model.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastActivityDate="2019-08-22T16:12:59.467" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10842" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10840" CreationDate="2019-08-22T17:52:18.917" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to &lt;a href=&quot;http://kmac-plastics.net/data/chemical/petg-chemical.htm#.XV7Vokd7m4o&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;kmac-plastics&lt;/a&gt;, PETG is stable at temperatures below 50°C specifically for citric acid (also acetic acid) and others on the linked list. It is also safe with diesel oil and many alcohols. The list is illuminating with respect to the variation of tested compounds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastActivityDate="2019-08-22T17:52:18.917" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10843" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-08-23T01:25:33.150" Score="6" ViewCount="2855" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm using Ultimaker Cura, and I want to change the filament for a print that I'm attempting at layer 15. The problem I'm having is that I also need to use G-code to load and unload the filament with my BMG extruder. This is the script that Ultimaker Cura created for the post-process to pause at layer 15.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;;current layer: 15&#xA;M83&#xA;G1 F3000 E-25&#xA;G1 F300 Z4&#xA;G1 F9000 X100 Y100&#xA;G1 F300 Z15&#xA;M104 S25; standby temperature&#xA;M0;Do the actual pause&#xA;M109 S215; resume temperature&#xA;G1 F3000 E25&#xA;G1 F3000 E-25&#xA;G1 F300 Z4&#xA;G1 F9000 X101.7 Y137.3&#xA;G1 F3000 E25&#xA;G1 F9000&#xA;M82&#xA;G92 E763.80547&#xA;G4 P1    &#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is what I usually use to unload my filament:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;G21 ;Metric Values&#xA;G90 ;Absolute Positioning&#xA;M109 S205.000 ;205 Unload&#xA;G92 E0 ;Reset Extruder Positioning&#xA;G1 E10 F100 ;Extrude 10mm filament&#xA;G92 E0 ;Reset Extruder Positioning&#xA;G1 E-600 F1500 ;Retract Filament completely &#xA;G92 E0 ;Reset Extruder&#xA;M400 ;Wait Command&#xA;M117 REMOVE FILAMENT NOW ;LCD Message&#xA;M400 ; Wait Command&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And to load:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;G21 ;Metric Values&#xA;G90 ;Set absolute positioning&#xA;M109 S205.000 ;Preheat PLA&#xA;M300 S440 P200 ; Tone&#xA;M300 S660 P250 ; Tone&#xA;M300 S880 P300 ; Tone&#xA;G4 S5 ; Wait 5 seconds&#xA;G92 E0 ;Reset Extruder Position&#xA;G1 E380 F1500; Fast Feed of 380mm filament&#xA;G92 E0 ;Reset Extruder Position&#xA;G1 E100 F200 ;Feed 100mm filament slowly&#xA;G92 E0 ;Reset Extruder Position&#xA;M400; Finish Move&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So this is what I came up with, will it work?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;;current layer: 15&#xA;M83&#xA;G1 F3000 E-25&#xA;G1 F300 Z4&#xA;G1 F9000 X100 Y100&#xA;G1 F300 Z15&#xA;G92 E0; Reset extruder position&#xA;G92 E-600 F1500; Retract Filament Completely&#xA;M104 S25; standby temperature&#xA;M0;Do the actual pause&#xA;G92 E0; Reset Extruder Position&#xA;M109 S215 ;Preheat PLA+&#xA;G1 E380 F1500; Fast Feed of 380mm filament&#xA;G92 E0; Reset Extruder Position&#xA;G1 E100 F200; Slowly Feed 100mm&#xA;M104 S25; Standby Temperature&#xA;M0; Do the actual Pause&#xA;M109 S215; resume temperature&#xA;G1 F3000 E25&#xA;G1 F3000 E-25&#xA;G1 F300 Z4&#xA;G1 F9000 X101.7 Y137.3&#xA;G1 F3000 E25&#xA;G1 F9000&#xA;M82&#xA;G92 E763.80547&#xA;G4 P1&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17366" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-08-23T07:05:26.170" LastActivityDate="2019-10-04T12:04:58.613" Title="Help with my G-Code to change filament change mid-print" Tags="|g-code|change-filament|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10844" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11028" CreationDate="2019-08-23T02:21:14.880" Score="4" ViewCount="972" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there a command to show the compile date and time of the Marlin 2.0 firmware? Also, is there a way to show this info at boot up?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12857" LastEditorUserId="11242" LastEditDate="2019-08-23T02:47:57.850" LastActivityDate="2019-09-17T21:04:23.810" Title="Show Build date and time in Marlin 2.0" Tags="|marlin|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10845" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-08-23T06:05:17.517" Score="3" ViewCount="386" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been working on calibrating my Taz Workhorse, and was dealing with some under-extrusion issues, despite checking the e-steps on the extruder and relatively modest retraction settings (2.5&amp;nbsp;mm at 25&amp;nbsp;mm/second).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lulzbot tech support suggested I boost my flow to 105&amp;nbsp;% to account for this, and the little Lulzbot gear that resulted was decent (note this picture is after some minor string removal).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7nMzh.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Lulzbot gear&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7nMzh.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Lulzbot gear&quot; title=&quot;Lulzbot gear&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried moving on to a articulated Turtle, and there's a consistent failure at 17&amp;nbsp;%, where you can hear the nozzle collide with a part and knock it off the print bed, followed by the usual mayhem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AMnAi.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Failed articulated turtle&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AMnAi.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Failed articulated turtle&quot; title=&quot;Failed articulated turtle&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From looking at the parts, it looks like all the small joints in the piece have a lot of excess material in them, causing an upward arc, and eventually getting high enough that they're well over the height of the next layer. That's where the collision occurs, presumably.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qXsoQ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Excess material on joints#1&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qXsoQ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Excess material on joints#1&quot; title=&quot;Excess material on joints#1&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lNKaa.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Excess material on joints#2&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lNKaa.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Excess material on joints#2&quot; title=&quot;Excess material on joints#2&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What's the likely cause of this? The increased flow? Some other issue?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other settings are mostly the Ultimaker Cura defaults, but I've also turned combing and Z-hop on (combing, especially, to combat stringing).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Print Settings:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lulzbot Taz Workhorse using Cura&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Polylite PLA 2.85&amp;nbsp;mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Print temperature: 215&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C (roughly the middle of the range, and where previous calibrations put me)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bed temperature: 60&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Retraction: 2.5&amp;nbsp;mm at 25&amp;nbsp;mm/sec&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Combing &quot;on&quot;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Z-Hop When Retracted &quot;on&quot; @ 1&amp;nbsp;mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fan Speed: I've tried 60&amp;nbsp;% (default) and 100&amp;nbsp;%&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Print Speed: 40&amp;nbsp;mm/s&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Flow: 105&amp;nbsp;%&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17342" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-08-24T06:26:22.393" LastActivityDate="2019-08-24T06:45:02.030" Title="Is this articulated Turtle print failing because of over extrusion on a Taz Workhorse?" Tags="|pla|lulzbot|print-failure|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10846" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10845" CreationDate="2019-08-23T07:13:44.920" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, the print does not fail on over-extrusion, it fails by curled up parts of the print as of a filament heating/print part cooling issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the curled up part has to be completely attached to the print bed (which is not the case after release of more information, but could be informative for others), your problem could be bed adhesion. If the original part does not (as has become clear in this case), so it is in fact an &lt;em&gt;&quot;overhang&quot;&lt;/em&gt; you are printing, this could be a print cooling issue. Furthermore, in general your printing temperature appears to be too high, you could try lowering print temperature to 200&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C (which should work fine for 2.85&amp;nbsp;mm for not too high printing speeds), and lowering print speed and or increase print part cooling percentage (or print a more effective print cooling duct).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Furthermore, the picture of the articulated turtle appears to show that the left side is lower, as in the bed is not properly levelled or dented (but with glass the latter is virtually impossible as glass is flat as of the nature of the production process).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-08-24T06:45:02.030" LastActivityDate="2019-08-24T06:45:02.030" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10847" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10849" CreationDate="2019-08-23T09:46:58.777" Score="1" ViewCount="167" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to make a water insulated 1&amp;nbsp;cm&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt; (1&amp;nbsp;ml) transparent container and I bought some plexiglass, I cut and glued some pieces together but it looks really crappy and barely holds the water in. I was wondering, is there a transparent material (similar to plexiglass) that can order to 3D print the container out of it? Also, if 3D printing is not the best option, where can I order around a 100 pieces of 1&amp;nbsp;cm&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt; transparent water insulating containers with caps?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17368" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-08-24T07:06:30.213" LastActivityDate="2019-08-24T07:06:30.213" Title="Can I order a 3D print of a 1 ml transparent container?" Tags="|3d-models|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10849" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10847" CreationDate="2019-08-23T10:39:06.930" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes. You'll probably want to use SLA or Polyjet printers with transparent resin. For example, here's &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.shapeways.com/materials/sla-accura-60&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Shapeways' page on transparent SLA&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.shapeways.com/materials/multi-color-polyjet&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;their page on Polyjet&lt;/a&gt; (which says you need to phone them for transparent Polyjet parts as their online order system can't handle it).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;FDM printing with transparent materials doesn't usually result in parts that look like transparent injection-moulded parts, because the lines of material laid down by the printer are visible. There are &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/q/16/13100&quot;&gt;some techniques to make this better&lt;/a&gt;, but a printing bureau is less likely to offer this kind of special handling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In any case, you should discuss your requirements in more detail with suppliers, and they'll be able to advise whether they offer any manufacturing processes that meet your needs. In particular, if you need your containers to be food-safe, you should mention that at the start, as it'll rule out a lot of possible suppliers, machines, and materials.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13100" LastActivityDate="2019-08-23T10:39:06.930" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10850" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10845" CreationDate="2019-08-23T13:11:25.180" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It looks to me like you have corner curling on overhangs, which can be contributed to by a mix of:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;overextrusion (poor dimensional accuracy of filament or wrong filament diameter setting)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;uneven extrusion (due to changes in the print head motion faster than the flow response to changes in the extruder)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;uneven cooling (especially due to proximity of one side to heated bed)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;too little cooling&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and possibly other factors. I would first try lowering the bed temperature. Technically you can print PLA on an unheated bed, but adhesion may be too poor. Dropping to 45°C (my preference now) should not hurt adhesion much and might help; it partly solved my corner-curling problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both uneven extrusion and insufficient cooling can be solved solved by printing slower, but that's no fun. It works for uneven extrusion because, even under constraints on acceleration/jerk, print head can change direction almost instantaneously at low speeds, yielding near-uniform absolute velocity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Uneven extrusion can also be solved by cranking up the limits on acceleration and jerk. This is a tradeoff because it might get you more vibration/ringing, and beyond the physical limits of your printer it may even start skipping steps and shifting layers (failed prints), but up to that point I think it's a worthwhile tradeoff. Effects from uneven extrusion are some of the worst, in my opinion, print quality/print failure issues, and worth other minor blemishes to fix them if needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2019-08-23T13:11:25.180" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10851" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10847" CreationDate="2019-08-23T13:40:29.610" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;3D printing services &lt;em&gt;can&lt;/em&gt; do this, but you'll likely have better results at lower cost through an injection molding service. You probably won't even need to go through the internet; businesses doing this are common enough you can probably put a search in Google for &quot;Injection Molding&quot; along with your city or community and have a number or local choices, where you can go visit them in person to talk face to face about what you need.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12562" LastActivityDate="2019-08-23T13:40:29.610" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10852" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10847" CreationDate="2019-08-23T13:46:20.900" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could order an sla or dlp printed part(which would probably be more expensive, but also quite durable and a little more transparent). Or you could order an fdm printed T-glase print, which  would come out pretty clear and not be quite as strong as sla, but still pretty good for holding water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7019" LastActivityDate="2019-08-23T13:46:20.900" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10853" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10855" CreationDate="2019-08-23T14:04:14.797" Score="2" ViewCount="4049" Body="&lt;p&gt;Trying to set up Repetier host for Ender 3 on Debian.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;code&gt;/dev/ttyUSBx&lt;/code&gt; is found via &lt;code&gt;dmesg&lt;/code&gt;, this value goes in &lt;strong&gt;config -&gt; printer settings -&gt; port&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Printer connects fine, but commands do not send. Status reads &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;xx commands waiting.&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have tried all the various baud rate settings &amp;lt;= 250k to no avail. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there something else I should be trying, or what is the correct baud rate to set?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;code&gt;dmesg&lt;/code&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;[2828465.418249] usb 1-13: USB disconnect, device number 77&#xA;[2828465.418480] ftdi_sio ttyUSB0: FTDI USB Serial Device converter now disconnected from ttyUSB0&#xA;[2828465.418492] ftdi_sio 1-13:1.0: device disconnected&#xA;[2828469.171168] usb 1-13: new full-speed USB device number 82 using xhci_hcd&#xA;[2828469.329014] usb 1-13: New USB device found, idVendor=0403, idProduct=6001, bcdDevice= 6.00&#xA;[2828469.329017] usb 1-13: New USB device strings: Mfr=1, Product=2, SerialNumber=3&#xA;[2828469.329018] usb 1-13: Product: FT232R USB UART&#xA;[2828469.329020] usb 1-13: Manufacturer: FTDI&#xA;[2828469.329021] usb 1-13: SerialNumber: A107MDUQ&#xA;[2828469.332455] ftdi_sio 1-13:1.0: FTDI USB Serial Device converter detected&#xA;[2828469.332485] usb 1-13: Detected FT232RL&#xA;[2828469.332756] usb 1-13: FTDI USB Serial Device converter now attached to ttyUSB0&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;code&gt;lsusb&lt;/code&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Bus 004 Device 001: ID 1d6b:0003 Linux Foundation 3.0 root hub&#xA;Bus 003 Device 003: ID 0a5c:21e8 Broadcom Corp. BCM20702A0 Bluetooth 4.0&#xA;Bus 003 Device 001: ID 1d6b:0002 Linux Foundation 2.0 root hub&#xA;Bus 002 Device 001: ID 1d6b:0003 Linux Foundation 3.0 root hub&#xA;Bus 001 Device 081: ID 18d1:4ee1 Google Inc. Nexus Device (MTP)&#xA;Bus 001 Device 002: ID 1b1c:1b45 Corsair &#xA;Bus 001 Device 046: ID 1b1c:1b50 Corsair &#xA;Bus 001 Device 049: ID 14cd:1212 Super Top microSD card reader (SY-T18)&#xA;Bus 001 Device 082: ID 0403:6001 Future Technology Devices International, Ltd FT232 Serial (UART) IC&#xA;Bus 001 Device 060: ID 1908:0226 GEMBIRD &#xA;Bus 001 Device 059: ID 046d:c52b Logitech, Inc. Unifying Receiver&#xA;Bus 001 Device 058: ID 05e3:0610 Genesys Logic, Inc. 4-port hub&#xA;Bus 001 Device 001: ID 1d6b:0002 Linux Foundation 2.0 root hub&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;code&gt;usb-devices&lt;/code&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;T:  Bus=01 Lev=01 Prnt=01 Port=12 Cnt=02 Dev#= 82 Spd=12  MxCh= 0&#xA;D:  Ver= 2.00 Cls=00(&amp;gt;ifc ) Sub=00 Prot=00 MxPS= 8 #Cfgs=  1&#xA;P:  Vendor=0403 ProdID=6001 Rev=06.00&#xA;S:  Manufacturer=FTDI&#xA;S:  Product=FT232R USB UART&#xA;S:  SerialNumber=A107MDUQ&#xA;C:  #Ifs= 1 Cfg#= 1 Atr=a0 MxPwr=90mA&#xA;I:  If#=0x0 Alt= 0 #EPs= 2 Cls=ff(vend.) Sub=ff Prot=ff Driver=ftdi_sio&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10519" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2019-08-23T19:55:00.307" LastActivityDate="2019-08-23T19:55:00.307" Title="Baud rate for Ender 3 on Repetier Host (Debian)" Tags="|creality-ender-3|repetier|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10854" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10840" CreationDate="2019-08-23T19:16:16.170" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The PETG is food safe (plastic water bottles are made of them), however the colour additives may not be a) stable, or b) food safe. If you are going to make a lemon squeezer then I would suggest that you use a virgin material that is just pet-g with no additives.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, you could only ever use it one. Any food particles that get stuck in between the fine layers of the printed part, will cause bacterial growth. If the walls are porous then the juice can get inside of the part and create a breathing ground.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12857" LastActivityDate="2019-08-23T19:16:16.170" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10855" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10853" CreationDate="2019-08-23T19:41:03.447" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your firmware configuration may vary (probably worth checking what you have set), but from &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/issues/12174&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;The Ender 3 configuration is set to 115200 baud rate #12174&lt;/a&gt;, the standard baud rate seems to be 115200.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I think the default Ender 3 configuration is aligned to the Ender3 official confg, which has 115200 so...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ah, but this is Marlin, and you're using Repetier. Hmmm, maybe ignore that then.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to &lt;a href=&quot;https://forum.repetier.com/discussion/1455/recommended-baud-rate&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Recommended baud rate?&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Normally 115200 or 250000 baud should work find and usb-&gt;serial latency is the bottleneck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Apart from that I don't know. Sorry. I might delete this answer, if it doesn't help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4762" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2019-08-23T19:46:20.467" LastActivityDate="2019-08-23T19:46:20.467" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10857" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10830" CreationDate="2019-08-24T17:01:51.327" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;As a follow up on this I wanted to post some pictures of the result with only the soldering iron.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I was soldering some cables and when it was still hot I figured I could give it a go.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The hole is on the underside and in a closed compartment so it's not visible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyways, about 3 mm hole at this point and quite pleased with the result.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QXfa5.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QXfa5.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/noyMb.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/noyMb.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17344" LastActivityDate="2019-08-24T17:01:51.327" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10858" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10866" CreationDate="2019-08-25T10:41:21.610" Score="2" ViewCount="3632" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an Anet A8 and have a problem with my first layer. I printed nice prints but starting today the first layer is tearing in the middle:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4BiUc.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4BiUc.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/L94tI.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/L94tI.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any idea how to fix this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17389" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2020-01-13T15:29:30.837" LastActivityDate="2022-05-31T16:10:59.637" Title="first layer tearing" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|anet-a8|adhesion|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10859" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-08-25T13:21:08.343" Score="3" ViewCount="1996" Body="&lt;p&gt;When the print is finished, it looks like the extruder is digging into the top layer as it returns to home?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried adding Z hop at 5&amp;nbsp;mm but it's not really helping.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sorry for the picture, white on white is hard to show.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried a range of speeds from 40-90&amp;nbsp;mm/s and over extrusion of 100-105&amp;nbsp;%, but the scar remains.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any suggestions?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is the end code:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;;TIME_ELAPSED:333.340017&#xA;G1 F1500 E417.35346&#xA;M140 S0&#xA;M141 S0&#xA;M107&#xA;M104 S0&#xA;M140 S0 &#xA;;Retract the filament&#xA;G92 E1&#xA;G1 E-1 F300&#xA;G28 X0 Y0&#xA;M84&#xA;M82 ;absolute extrusion mode&#xA;M104 S0&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4B1R2.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4B1R2.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;surface scar 3d print&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9d7GL.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9d7GL.png&quot; alt=&quot;z hop settings&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12878" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-08-25T17:33:58.447" LastActivityDate="2019-11-19T16:23:34.847" Title="Top surface scarring even with Z hop" Tags="|print-quality|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10860" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-08-25T20:21:02.023" Score="3" ViewCount="4594" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I am fairly competent with 3D printing, but this problem has got me stumped. I use a Creality CR-10 and I hadn't printed anything off for quite a while (maybe 5 or 6 months?) and I just recently starting printing again. I got a roll of somewhat cheap, but highly reviewed, filament that I have had for around a year that had just been sitting in a cupboard and went through the process of levelling and setup before starting a print. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I started to print a model and left it, expecting it to work as it usually does, but came back later and it had failed halfway; it stopped clean with no spaghetti or continuous extrusion. I started the print again and watched it for a few layers to make sure everything was working fine, and found that it printed the first layer off perfectly fine, but as soon as it started the second layer the extruder gear starting making a clicking noise like it was slipping and the filament wasn't being extruded any further.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I thought this could be because the extruder gear was worn, as it is only brass, and the teeth weren't biting the filament, so I bought a steel one and replaced it; but it's still clicking. I then thought it could be because the nozzle was getting clogged, so I took off the hotend and cleaned it thoroughly but that didn't fix the problem; even if this was the case, it wouldn't make sense that it is regularly completing the first layer before getting 'clogged'. I also tried printing at hotter and cooler temperatures, with and without the heated bed, and printing at slower speeds, but all of these attempts fail to fix the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did have a brief thought that it COULD be a problem with the model or gcode, as I did print of a spacer for the spring in the feeder which printed off without any clicks, and I also printed off a smaller version of my model (33% scale) which  made the clicking noise intermittently and was affecting the filament but printed off fine in the end after I left it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My final thought is that it could be the filament, as it isn't exactly new or expensive and was left for over 6 months, but before I buy a better roll I want to know if this is a viable reason for the clicking and slipping in the extruder. If anyone could help me out of give me any solutions I would be incredibly grateful. Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These are all my current settings in Slic3r:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9DfXM.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Slic3r settings&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9DfXM.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Slic3r settings&quot; title=&quot;Slic3r settings&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17392" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2019-09-01T17:22:59.497" LastActivityDate="2020-01-29T19:01:30.177" Title="Creality CR-10 extruder clicking and/or nozzle clogging" Tags="|filament|extruder|creality-cr-10|filament-quality|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10861" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-08-25T20:33:06.707" Score="0" ViewCount="302" Body="&lt;p&gt;My inline fuse burned and I don't know how many ampere the new fuse should have.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17393" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2019-08-31T08:41:22.343" LastActivityDate="2019-08-31T08:41:22.343" Title="Anet A8 stock replacement fuse between motherboard and PSU" Tags="|anet-a8|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10862" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10861" CreationDate="2019-08-26T03:19:36.540" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Couple things to note.&#xA;First one is that as @Paulster2 mentioned, the fuse itself &lt;em&gt;should&lt;/em&gt; have its rating printed on it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second one is that if your fuse blew, there's a reason for that, and you really should try to figure out what that reason is before you start putting fuses back in. The Anet A8 isn't exactly what I'd call a high-quality kit, so there's a chance you've got a blown FET or something somewhere that has shorted closed and is just drawing power nonstop. You should start by getting a multimeter and checking the continuity of the power traces for your hotend and bed, without power in the system. You can do some basic safety checks that way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you've gotten that done, if you're referring to a 12&amp;nbsp;V feed line, that should be somewhere in the ballpark of 20&amp;nbsp;A fuse. If it's a fuse on the mains power, it'll be like 1&amp;nbsp;A or 2&amp;nbsp;A depending on whether you're on 240&amp;nbsp;V or 120&amp;nbsp;V mains (respectively). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16621" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-08-26T21:49:31.867" LastActivityDate="2019-08-26T21:49:31.867" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10863" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-08-26T04:30:05.757" Score="2" ViewCount="1187" Body="&lt;p&gt;So my goal was to print in a variety of materials with my CR10, but all attempts up to now have failed. I've tried a variety of all-metal hot-ends (except Micro Swiss) with no success. For those with a similar Creality printer that successfully print with all metal ends, how sensitive are they? Do they only print with high temp materials? Is a head too close to the bed enough to jam it? Is a 5&amp;nbsp;mm retraction prone to jam it? Do I need to stick to a premium brand when it comes to all metal hot ends?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17398" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-08-26T04:52:45.040" LastActivityDate="2019-08-26T13:35:20.363" Title="How sensitive are all-metal print heads?" Tags="|hotend|creality-cr-10|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10865" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10863" CreationDate="2019-08-26T13:35:20.363" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Full definite answers on your questions are hard be given, there are a few parameters affecting the clogging of all-metal hotends.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All-metal hotends are considered so-called &quot;upgrades&quot; for printers while in fact they usually cause more problems. For high temperature filaments, like PC and some Nylons, etc. (printing temperature above 250&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C)  you require a hotend that can withstand higher temperatures for prolonged use of the hotend. The problem is that heat creep (heat climbing up the throat/heat break) causes low temperature melting filaments to become prematurely soft and cause problems when retracted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This requires the printer operator to provide enough cooling air to the coldend of the hotend assembly (usually the part where the cooling fins are) to dissipate heat creeping up the heat break and carefully tune printing temperature and retraction length.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that Ultimaker Cura uses quite large retraction values (default 6.5&amp;nbsp;mm), which work perfectly for the UM3E. This could be closely related to the compression effect of the filament in the Bowden tube. The all-metal hotends from the UM3 are perfectly capable of printing low temperature filaments, so if dialed in correctly, such hotends are not only to be used for high temperature filaments.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2019-08-26T13:35:20.363" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10866" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10858" CreationDate="2019-08-26T14:49:00.870" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The great pics really help with the answerability of this question. From how catastrophic the failure is, and how it's clearly independent of any specialty needs for the particular print such as tiny bed-adhesion contacts, sharp overhangs, bridges, etc. this is definitely not a problem with temperature. Different people recommend different temperatures for PLA, but I find that 210°C works well for me, and if you go much lower you'll hit problems getting the needed extrusion rate for anything but slow print speeds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've seen nearly this exact phenomenon before, so I knew it was probably a matter of the bed being too high, blocking extrusion of the first layer and forcing what little material can escape out to the sides of the nozzle, then tearing into it when the next adjacent line is laid out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I didn't know that, though, I'd still start looking for a source of the problem that's related to extrusion rate. Something was clearly wrong with getting the right amount of material in the right space, which indicates to me that there's either too much material (overextrusion/wrong filament diameter selected) or too little space (bed to high).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2019-08-26T14:49:00.870" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10867" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-08-26T15:35:51.773" Score="3" ViewCount="401" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know that acrylic paint, the same kind that is used to paint miniature figurines, works best for PLA. Does it works on ABS pieces as well? Can I also use the same kind of varnish that is used for miniatures on my painted ABS prints? If not, what kind of paint and varnish works on ABS prints?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12917" LastActivityDate="2021-12-31T15:11:13.777" Title="What kind of paint and varnish can be used with ABS?" Tags="|abs|post-processing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10868" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10872" CreationDate="2019-08-26T16:57:33.060" Score="3" ViewCount="1859" Body="&lt;p&gt;On several occasions I've wanted lettering/numbering printed as part of a design, but with the ability to make it stand out more effectively in the printed object without having to do detailed manual finishing. Is there a good material which can catch in and fill sunken (depth 0.4&amp;nbsp;mm, width 0.6-1.0&amp;nbsp;mm) lines/strokes of alphanumeric characters without sticking to the surface (including fine layer ridges) of the print? My best result so far has been with crayon wax, but I wonder if there are more suitable materials. (Polymer clay, perhaps?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Results with crayons:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xLmJ6.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;3D printed D20s with numbering filled with crayon wax&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Durability is nice (and essential for some applications), but for many uses I have in mind it's not such a big deal. For example another place I've wanted clear text is on test panels to check nut/bolt thread sizes, in which case the text is unlikely to receive harsh treatment but any heat-based curing processes might effect the dimensional accuracy negatively. So both durable and non-durable solutions are interesting to me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastEditorUserId="11157" LastEditDate="2019-08-26T18:50:12.020" LastActivityDate="2019-08-26T23:09:30.573" Title="Finishing sunken text in 3D prints" Tags="|post-processing|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10869" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10868" CreationDate="2019-08-26T18:31:46.873" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think your instinct is good.  The trick is finding the right modeling compound, with the right curing properties, that will stick to your polymer dice, and will be available in colors you like.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Amazon has some epoxy-based clays that appear to be either terra-cotta or black.  If these colors work, this may be the right choice.  Most epoxies will cling well, and it seems to have minimal shrinkage when hardening.  You could probably add some pigment and alter the color, but I doubt you could get a white, yellow, or any light color.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are some air-drying clays, but the reviews show that these have higher shrinkage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are some bake-to-harden clays that harden between 250 and 300 degrees Farenheit.  If you printed with ABS or a high temperature plastic, it might work.  You would have to try it to know.  300 F is only 149 C, so maybe.  PLA wouldn't stand a chance.  If you can print polycarbonate, it might work better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This material looks interesting: &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B0716D1VDM&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.amazon.com/Polymer-Modelling-Modeling-Tutorials-Accessories/dp/B0716D1VDM?ref_=fsclp_pl_dp_6&lt;/a&gt;  There are lots of colors, and it can be cured in a 275 Farenheit oven, with a hot-air gun, or by boiling in water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2082" LastActivityDate="2019-08-26T18:31:46.873" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10870" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10878" CreationDate="2019-08-26T20:33:08.357" Score="2" ViewCount="2589" Body="&lt;p&gt;Take the standard Hiwin rail, as commonly used in 3D printers:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/69Wy5.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/69Wy5.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Ebay Listing of Hiwin rail&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They come in a max length of 2500 mm. Let's say I need twice that. If I connect two rails together end to end (as a &quot;butt joint&quot;) and just bolt them into place, will it work as though it was one 5000&amp;nbsp;mm rail? Or are we limited to whatever lengths the manufacturers put out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12857" LastEditorUserId="12857" LastEditDate="2019-08-26T22:34:00.227" LastActivityDate="2019-08-28T13:39:20.280" Title="Can linear guide rails be joined?" Tags="|linear-motion|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10871" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-08-26T20:51:04.127" Score="5" ViewCount="65" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking for some kind of collection of shapes of smartphones, so I can design a case that will fit certain models perfectly.&#xA;STL, or any other kind of 3d file.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lots of companies produce cases for smartphones, do they have the shapes straight from the manufacturer? Do they reverse engineer every model?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm asking here because I couldn't find a stack exchange site that would be a better fit for this kind of question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17404" LastActivityDate="2019-08-27T00:35:04.970" Title="Where to get smartphone shapes from, to create a case all by myself?" Tags="|stl|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10872" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10868" CreationDate="2019-08-26T23:09:30.573" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;As suggested by Davo in a comment, nail polish works very well for this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I've seem people use fingernail polish before, wiping the excess off while it's wet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What works even better than wiping the excess off while it's wet is letting it fill up the pits and fully dry, then using acetone or other solvents to remove it from the non-sunken surface around the text. Acetone doesn't attack PLA, but I've found it does alter some PLA dyes, so alternate solvents might be preferable if that's a problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's the result of my first test:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tS1XR.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;White D20 with red nail polish filling numbers&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2019-08-26T23:09:30.573" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10873" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10871" CreationDate="2019-08-27T00:35:04.970" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not aware of a source for STL files or engineering diagrams, but you can do the measurements yourself fairly easily. I did this to make credit-card-slot cases for my Moto G4 and the fit turned out very good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Start with a digital caliper and measure the maximum length, width, and depth of the phone, ignoring rounded corners. Next, trace the phone on a piece of paper and use a straightedge to extend the flat parts of the sides to a bounding rectangle, and measure how far from the corner the curved part extends in each direction before meeting the flat part. Finally, if the sides of the phone are rounded too, estimate how thick the phone would be if you extended the curved edge to a full semicircle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At this point, you can approximate the shape of the phone as the convex hull of 4 spheres scaled appropriately in the x, y, and z directions, if the sides are curved, or the convex hull of 4 cylinders scaled in just the x and y directions, if the sides are flat. In the former (spheres) case, the approximation will be thicker than the phone, and you have to slice off the top and bottom to match the arc segment that's actually present on the sides of the phone. There are ways to do this exactly but I found it doesn't need to be precise and you can just eyeball it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In order to make a usable case, you'll also need to measure the distances of camera lens, buttons you want to expose, etc. from reference points. This is straightforward with a caliper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's my result, following this procedure:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TUP2K.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Moto G4 case printed in white flex PLA&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2019-08-27T00:35:04.970" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10874" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10903" CreationDate="2019-08-27T12:01:01.813" Score="0" ViewCount="82" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought Ender-5 and if I print sample model in bundle SD, it’s just perfect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZzzdZ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZzzdZ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;sample_cat&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But when I tested basic cube with raft, its base and top is just ugly. Even thought its 4 sides are perfect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XnIoQ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XnIoQ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;raft&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SneQn.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SneQn.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;bottom&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/C9LAW.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/C9LAW.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;top&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OeX3w.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OeX3w.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;side&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ultimaker Cura 4.2.1&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bed temperature 45&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Extruder temperature 200&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which setting(s) should I check futher?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17408" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-08-30T06:17:33.037" LastActivityDate="2019-08-30T06:17:33.037" Title="Problem with first and last layers" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|slicing|creality-ender-5|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10875" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10876" CreationDate="2019-08-27T12:28:00.053" Score="1" ViewCount="243" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking to 3D print a structure that won't deform in high heat, up to about 220&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C. The filament itself can be 3D printed all the way up to about 380&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PEI seems like it could be a viable option. I found some &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.matterhackers.com/store/l/3dxtech-thermax-pei-175mm-05kg/sk/MHCFSNUC?rcode=GAT9HR&amp;amp;gclid=CjwKCAjwqZPrBRBnEiwAmNJsNsqaaSEcWYtaTv1rIwDKuWgI9xCyinqDgV7bYUUO3zX7-pIA0gDPSBoCclYQAvD_BwE&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;. This PEI filament  specifies the glass transition temperature at 217&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would this filament work? Are there any other types of materials that would fulfill this engineering requirement?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10369" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-08-27T12:39:11.580" LastActivityDate="2019-09-03T18:37:20.040" Title="What is the 3D printer filament (or pellet) most resistant to bending at high heats?" Tags="|filament|filament-choice|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10876" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10875" CreationDate="2019-08-27T12:47:42.637" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your expected operating temperature exceeds the glass transition temperature by 3&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C. This implies that the structure will become weak and can deform under load. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that you cannot simply print PEI on a normal machine, it requires a special high temperature capable printer with hot end temperatures up to 400&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C and heated bed over 120&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C up to 160&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C, furthermore it will need a heated chamber (up to about 80&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C) which requires special care to cooling and placement of electronics and motors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not having specified what kind of structure you require, you could look into steel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-08-28T06:01:55.623" LastActivityDate="2019-08-28T06:01:55.623" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10877" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10875" CreationDate="2019-08-27T13:15:09.220" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Polyether_ether_ketone&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;PEEK&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; is also used in applications where dimensional stability (and/or chemical resistance) over a wide range of temperatures is desired. The requirements for printing are similar to those for PEI.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4922" LastActivityDate="2019-08-27T13:15:09.220" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10878" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10870" CreationDate="2019-08-27T15:01:39.753" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The answer is yes; and it's a normal thing to do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.igus.com/info/linear-guides-butting-rails-together&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.igus.com/info/linear-guides-butting-rails-together&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/izszZ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/izszZ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;DryLin® aluminum rails&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically you should only do it with rails from the same manufacturer and you might have to file the mating surfaces, but butting them is altogether trivial. This method works with Drylin and UHMW-PE bearing surfaces as recirculating balls could get caught in the small gap that is left behind. This would cause the carriage to &quot;jump&quot; as it passes over the joint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12857" LastEditorUserId="12857" LastEditDate="2019-08-28T13:39:20.280" LastActivityDate="2019-08-28T13:39:20.280" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10879" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10867" CreationDate="2019-08-27T16:19:00.017" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;ABS is more soluble in solvents than is PLA.  Acetone will dissolve it, which can be a benefit because it allows vapor smoothing, but can be a problem with some paints which have solvents other than water.  Try out any new paint on a scrap piece.  Apply a thick dot of the paint, let it sit for a couple of minutes, and then wipe it off.  If there is a change in the shape or color where the dot had been, the paint may be dissolving the ABS.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Acrylic has a water base and does not attack ABS.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A paint that attacks ABS may be fine, but there may be some color bleeding of the ABS color into the paint.  A translucent (or clear) ABS would minimize the problem, since does not contain any pigment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Spray painting may work better because the paint is undisturbed once applied.  Brushing on paint will mix the dissolved layer with the unaltered paint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2082" LastActivityDate="2019-08-27T16:19:00.017" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10880" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10894" CreationDate="2019-08-27T16:45:03.360" Score="7" ViewCount="2813" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently bought a 3D printer called Dreamer NX from FlashForge. The dealer told me to use FlashPrint software that belongs to the FlashForge printer manufacturer. But, many people advise me to use Ultimaker Cura. Are there many differences between these two software packages?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5681" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2019-08-31T09:24:06.960" LastActivityDate="2019-08-31T09:24:06.960" Title="Are there many differences between Ultimaker Cura and FlashForge FlashPrint slicers?" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|flashprint|flashforge-dreamer|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10881" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13453" CreationDate="2019-08-27T18:01:24.013" Score="5" ViewCount="6888" Body="&lt;p&gt;On a budget, I'm water-cooling a 3D printer. I'm using a 5&amp;nbsp;V aquarium pump (\$3). Originally I tried to only use about as much water in a can of chickpeas but then found out i needed a lot more. I have a deliberate need to water cool stepper motors in the first printer, so that I can print with a high temperature filament like PEI (the operating temp of a stepper is maxed at about 53 degrees celsius; PEI requires an enclosure temperature of 80&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C), but on another printer I'm having some other issues with the motors that I think could be solved by better heat dissipation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I am getting to is a device like &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B07DLQJKKC&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt;: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DYx39.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DYx39.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;e&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is the perfect size for a stepper motor. My plan is to zip-tie one of these to each stepper motor and water cool it in a single path across my printer, including the hot end.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can anyone think of a reason why this wouldn't work? i just haven't heard of anyone doing anything like this, but it makes sense to me as a chemistry minor. The specific heat of water is way higher than almost anything else. And it is way less noisy than fans. And it works inside an enclosure, while fans might not&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I ziptie the aluminum block to the back part of the stepper where the metal is, or to one of the darker black sides?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would I be able to 3D print a cooling block like this instead of paying for it? See also &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11043/what-is-the-thermal-conductivity-of-various-3d-printing-filaments&quot;&gt;this relevant question on thermal conductivity of various 3D printing filaments&lt;/a&gt;. It should probably be metal to transfer heat better? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10369" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-04-08T05:52:43.700" LastActivityDate="2020-04-19T01:40:27.277" Title="Water-cooling stepper motor with aluminum block" Tags="|cooling|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10882" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10881" CreationDate="2019-08-27T18:14:29.173" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your solution will not cool all sides effectively. Firstly don't use zip ties; get thermal tape.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uC6tD.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uC6tD.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Thermal Tape&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;(&lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B00QSHPH8E&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.amazon.com/Thermal-Interface-Products-Heat-Sink/dp/B00QSHPH8E/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Secondly, the heat will need to travel around the outside of the motor to get from the side that doesn't have the water block. Its expensive but you could use &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.digikey.com/en/product-highlight/p/panasonic/pyrolytic-graphite-sheets&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Pyrolytic Graphite Sheets&lt;/a&gt; to wrap around the outside of the motor, to get the heat to the water block faster.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12857" LastActivityDate="2019-08-27T18:14:29.173" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10883" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-08-28T08:40:00.717" Score="3" ViewCount="287" Body="&lt;p&gt;A few minutes after finishing a print job, the filament is solidified in the nozzle and the nozzle-throat. When I start another print job a while later, the filament is not sufficiently melted and the nozzle is obstructed. Do I need to clean the nozzle after every print job ? or is there a practical method to overcome this difficulty ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16945" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2019-08-28T09:22:46.470" LastActivityDate="2019-08-28T14:48:25.053" Title="Nozzle cleaning" Tags="|extruder|nozzle|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10884" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10883" CreationDate="2019-08-28T09:25:10.840" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;To start a print, the printer has first get up to print temperature, re-melting the plastic in the nozzle and hotend. To get better results, it is usually a very good idea to &quot;prime&quot; the nozzle to make sure we have nicely melted plastic in the nozzle and pushed out the old. Some priming methods have been &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6355/writing-g-code-swiping-at-start-of-print&quot;&gt;discussed here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastActivityDate="2019-08-28T09:25:10.840" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10886" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="371" CreationDate="2019-08-28T13:10:32.277" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;TL;DR&lt;/strong&gt; You could compare the nozzle to a similar new nozzle to look for wear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The creators of the &lt;a href=&quot;https://olssonruby.com/anders-olsson-olsson-ruby/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Olsson Ruby Nozzle&lt;/a&gt; have published some pictures of wear on brass, steel and hardened steel nozzles. From &lt;a href=&quot;https://olssonruby.com/design-quality/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;their website&lt;/a&gt; the following image is taken:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/drWLD.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/drWLD.png&quot; alt=&quot;Nozzle wear&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on the amount of filament that is being printed, not only the internal dimensions, but also the outer dimension change considerably. This is clearly visible in the images. Comparing your nozzle to a similar new nozzle might give you an idea of the wear of your nozzle. It is expected that long before the nozzle reaches this state, you need to readjust the bed to nozzle distance and the flow modifier, you will see this in the quality of your prints and the first layer sticking to the bed. So, the more (frequent) you need to tinker to get the print to stick or to print successfully and dimensionally correct, the bigger the change your nozzle has worn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-09-04T17:27:31.377" LastActivityDate="2019-09-04T17:27:31.377" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10887" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10883" CreationDate="2019-08-28T14:48:25.053" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had this issue until I started doing the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you are going to print subsequent jobs (one after the other), then ensure you keep the extruder end at print temperature while you are preparing the next job. For me on my Anet A8, I'd just tell the printer to preheat for PLA (or directly set a temp for the filament being used). This keeps the heat up in the hot end and should allow you to start printing right away when everything is ready. Please note, this will usually cause the nozzle to ooze a little bit of filament as it sits. Just ensure you swipe it clean before you actually start the next print to alleviate and stringing issues when you press the &quot;GO&quot; button. As an alternative, you could attach a line at the end of your print which would send the G-code to keep the printer up to temperature instead of cooling off after a print is finished. If you do this, though, you have to ensure you actually do allow it to shut down when you aren't printing so as to not waste resources.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you are not going to print subsequent jobs, pull the filament out of the extruder. On my Anet A8, right after the print has finished, but before things start cooling, I will press the spring loaded part of the extruder head (the part which captures the filament against the extruder gear), then push the filament into the extruder and quickly out. This usually ensures you don't leave a lot of filament languishing in the extruder head and will make it easier to load the filament the next time you want to print.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11242" LastActivityDate="2019-08-28T14:48:25.053" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10888" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10895" CreationDate="2019-08-28T19:18:51.963" Score="8" ViewCount="24776" Body="&lt;p&gt;When go to export a model using Fusion 360 or Meshmixer, I see that there are two options. Could the final model be affected by the format chosen at the time of saving?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xIEXt.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xIEXt.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12715" LastEditorUserId="4922" LastEditDate="2019-08-28T20:24:24.323" LastActivityDate="2021-03-14T17:16:34.713" Title="Export STL as ASCII or binary?" Tags="|3d-models|stl|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10889" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10888" CreationDate="2019-08-28T19:58:44.203" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have experienced problems on occasion when using a binary exported Meshmixer model. The slicers used have been Simplify3D and Prusa Slicer 2.0 and possibly an earlier version. I've not attempted to resolve the problem other than to change that specific model to export to ASCII which then solves the problem. ASCII files will be larger but that's not a significant factor, in my opinion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are using a program which fails to properly process a binary export, it's simple enough to overwrite the model in ASCII form.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastActivityDate="2019-08-28T19:58:44.203" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10890" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-08-28T20:42:20.920" Score="2" ViewCount="2385" Body="&lt;p&gt;I finished fixing my Anet A8 about the 3DTouch sensor working with the LCD2004 stock display, I am installing the full graphic display LCD 12864 (for Anet A6) but when I compile Marlin 1.1.9 the following error appears:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&#xA;Arduino: 1.8.9 (Windows 7), Sheet: 'Anet V1.0 (Optiboot)'&#xA;&#xA;c: / program files (x86) / arduino / hardware / tools / avr / bin /../ lib / gcc / avr / 5.4.0 /../../../../ avr / bin / ld. exe: C: Users Claudio AppData Local Temp aruino_build_739999 / Marlin - this_feature_good.ino.elf section `.text 'will not fit in region` text'&#xA;&#xA;c: / program files (x86) / arduino / hardware / tools / avr / bin /../ lib / gcc / avr / 5.4.0 /../../../../ avr / bin / ld. exe: region `text 'overflowed by 1866 bytes&#xA;&#xA;collect2.exe: error: ld returned 1 exit status&#xA;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This happened after activating the Anet A6 display and deactivating the LCD2004.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously given the low memory I performed the flash bootloader using &lt;code&gt;ANET OPTIBOOT&lt;/code&gt; and reloaded the firmware.&#xA;If I deactivate the whole part of the 3DTouch, then the 12864 LCD display works properly, now I have 130&amp;nbsp;kbit (about 16 kB) memory left.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Arduino warns me if I do not have enough memory. In this case, instead of those errors I do not know what they are for. Maybe using an older Marlin version would help?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17426" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-09-04T21:15:27.553" LastActivityDate="2019-09-04T21:15:27.553" Title="Configuration of the Anet A6 full graphic LCD 12864 on an Anet A8" Tags="|marlin|anet-a8|firmware|display|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10891" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10892" CreationDate="2019-08-29T02:59:27.697" Score="2" ViewCount="4278" Body="&lt;p&gt;Temperature is showing about 680&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C at room temperature. When I make it &quot;hotter&quot; by holding my thumb and index finger on it, the temperature does increase. So it is responding to temperature changes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to add some thermistors to my MKS GEN L v1.0 board:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YlGDW.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;MKS GEN L v1.0 schematics&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YlGDW.png&quot; alt=&quot;MKS GEN L v1.0 schematics&quot; title=&quot;MKS GEN L v1.0 schematics&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm using the &lt;code&gt;A11&lt;/code&gt; pin and &lt;code&gt;GND&lt;/code&gt; in the picture above. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The thermistor works correctly when plugged into the &lt;code&gt;HE1&lt;/code&gt; temperature pin. So the thermistor is fine hardware-wise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The thermistor is set to be the &quot;Chamber&quot; thermistor in Marlin 1.1.x. This just means it is supposed to record the temperature of the enclosure. I don't know if there is some kind of volatility issue with the chamber constant in Marlin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The thermistor has the same settings in Marlin for both &lt;code&gt;HE1&lt;/code&gt; and the chamber one. They are both set to &quot;thermistor 11&quot; for the 3950 type of thermistor. So the most visible setting implies they should be treated the same firmware-wise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've also tried the other extra Analog pins in the AUX-2 port.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What could be the issue here? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If these are the only available analog pins, how can I add more thermistors to my set-up so that they're available in Marlin?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any way I can use the AUX-1 port?  It doesn't seem to be an analog pin like in the photo for this particular version of RAMPS. I tried pin &lt;code&gt;A3&lt;/code&gt; but it didn't work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10369" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-08-29T05:36:09.763" LastActivityDate="2019-08-29T09:28:31.630" Title="Weird temperature reading using thermistor on MKS GEN L v1.0 AUX-2 analog pins" Tags="|marlin|thermistor|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10892" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10891" CreationDate="2019-08-29T06:20:38.953" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Thermistors, commonly used as temperature sensors on 3D printers and other DIY things, work by changing their internal resistance depending on the temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the analog ports, the microcontroller can determine the voltage of the connected signal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To actually measure the resistance - and thus temperature - of the thermistor, you need to build a voltage divider:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UIeHS.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UIeHS.png&quot; alt=&quot;Voltage Divider. Source: circuitdigest.com&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most, if not all, 3D printer control boards use a resistor of 4.7 kOhms and a capacitor to build this voltage divider:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OU0HW.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OU0HW.png&quot; alt=&quot;RAMPS schematic. Source: reprap.org&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll need at least this 4.7 kOhm resistor to get your thermistors working on any analog pin, if the three thermistor ports on the MKS Gen L don't suffice for you needs.&#xA;You could also use other temperature sensors, especially for the case, like the DHT11 or DHT22, however I couldn't find whether they're supported by Marlin yet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13171" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-08-29T09:28:31.630" LastActivityDate="2019-08-29T09:28:31.630" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10893" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10901" CreationDate="2019-08-29T06:46:09.430" Score="2" ViewCount="70" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since retractions above 4&amp;nbsp;mm can cause jams due to plastic sticking to the cold half of the metal print head, what's the best way to avoid jams when swapping filaments? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cool down and yank out, rapid pull out while melted, pull out at partial heat but not completely melted, or something else?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17398" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-08-29T06:57:50.743" LastActivityDate="2019-08-29T23:40:11.387" Title="What's the best way to pull out fillament from an all metal print head" Tags="|filament|hotend|retraction|change-filament|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10894" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10880" CreationDate="2019-08-29T06:56:43.557" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The commonality of the 2 slicers is that both are developed and maintained by a printer manufacturer. The largest difference is that FlashPrint is &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Proprietary_software&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;closed/proprietary software&lt;/a&gt;, while Ultimaker Cura is released in source (&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cura_(software)&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;so-called open source project&lt;/a&gt;) to the public; this is valid for both the &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/Ultimaker/Cura&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;frontend (Cura)&lt;/a&gt; (Graphical User Interface) as for the &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/Ultimaker/CuraEngine&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;slicing core (CuraEngine)&lt;/a&gt;. Basically this implies that there is a larger community developing and bug fixing the software. Also, FlashPrint is exclusively available for the FlashForge printers while Ultimaker Cura can be used for different brands as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Statement from &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.3dprms.com/products/flashprint-slicer-for-3d-printing&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;www.3dprms.com&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The Flashpoint software is an in-house software program developed by FlashForge for use exclusively with the FlashForge 3D Printers&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Statement from the &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cura_(software)&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Cura wikipedia&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Cura is an open source 3D printer slicing application. It was created by David Braam who was later employed by Ultimaker, a 3D printer manufacturing company, to maintain the software.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As FlashPrint is proprietary, it has no shared source repository and can therefore not be based on existing forks of software that are released under e.g. some version of the &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/GNU_Lesser_General_Public_License&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;LGPL&lt;/a&gt; license as this implies that you need to share the amendments you made to the software, otherwise you would be in violation:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;...any developer who modifies an LGPL-covered component is required to make their modified version available under the same LGPL license..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sub&gt;&lt;em&gt;Note that discussing the exact differences in features between the 2 software packages (e.g. implementation differences of model support structures) would be more fit in a forum style discussion board rather than on a Stack Exchange site.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-08-30T07:51:04.277" LastActivityDate="2019-08-30T07:51:04.277" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10895" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10888" CreationDate="2019-08-29T08:08:27.980" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The two formats contain the same information about the model, but the binary format is &lt;strong&gt;much more compact&lt;/strong&gt;, so it will produce smaller files from the same part but they should work the same. That's to say, if you take the exact same model, save it as a binary STL and as an ASCII STL, the binary STL file will take up &lt;strong&gt;fewer bytes&lt;/strong&gt; on disk. The number of triangles and the dimensions of the printed model will &lt;strong&gt;stay the same&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a couple of important exceptions here:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I don't know about Meshmixer specifically, but some tools will have completely different code paths for exporting the two formats. One exporter may have a bug that the other exporter doesn't. The same is true of the slicer, which may have a bug reading one of the two kinds of STL but not the other. In this case, it'll make a huge difference which one you use, but you'll only find out when one goes wrong. This is what fred_dot_u experienced in &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/10889/8884&quot;&gt;his answer&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Some tools have a way of putting colour information into the binary STL format, which isn't possible with the ASCII format. If your model has coloured triangles, you might find that the binary STL preserves the colours, while the ASCII STL loses the colours. Whether this matters to you depends on what printing technology you'll be using. Most slicers can't use these colours anyway - and subsequently, ignore color information on import.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The ASCII STL format is older than the binary format, so you may find some very old software can only understand the ASCII STL files, but unless you're working with such old software, it's usually better to use the binary format. Smaller files don't just save disk space: they're also faster to process and transfer via e-mail or on servers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13100" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2019-08-29T14:20:00.020" LastActivityDate="2019-08-29T14:20:00.020" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10896" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10888" CreationDate="2019-08-29T08:34:51.007" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should always pick the &lt;em&gt;binary&lt;/em&gt; option. ASCII files are larger and slower to save and load. There's no reason to ever use ASCII unless you are using software that is incompatible with binary files.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Could the final model be affected by the format chosen at the time of saving?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In practice, the model will not be affected by either choice. There are some subtle differences between the two formats, such as binary being able to store an attribute per triangle (which is sometimes used to represent colour), ASCII being able to store a &quot;name&quot; for the solid in a file while binary can store an 80-byte header containing metadata, binary being limited to 32 bits of precision while ASCII theoretically has the option to use arbitrary precision. However, for 99.9% of all use cases there is no difference, so it is preferable to use binary for its smaller file size.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastActivityDate="2019-08-29T08:34:51.007" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10897" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-08-29T19:52:03.420" Score="4" ViewCount="183" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there an efficient approach to discovering what is extraneous (&quot;dead&quot; or &quot;unused&quot;) code in OpenSCAD to promote the learning process?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am making progress by using working examples of code; however, some contain code with lots of modules and &quot;test cases&quot; (like gear generators) that aren't always used or referenced.  These are great utilities but in trying to simplify the file to do only a small part of what is possible (usually by commenting out what I think are unused lines of code) things (to me) get very unpredictable.  Reviewing the &quot;AST Dump&quot; has helped some but I'm hoping there is a more practical approach to isolating only the bare essential code.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17432" LastActivityDate="2020-12-21T03:02:40.250" Title="Streamlining OpenSCAD Code" Tags="|openscad|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10899" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10830" CreationDate="2019-08-29T20:43:49.467" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I discovered a trick to drilling holes in plastics and its works well with PLA, too.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First print your part with a somewhat undersized hole and, with your selected drill bit, run the bit backwards while seated in the printed hole.  You can often use increased speed to create more heat from friction, but be careful when applying a little pressure on the bit and always remain aware that the bit could push through at any instant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you run the bit in its usual direction, it will more likely, and suddenly, bite into the plastic and make an ugly hole or split your print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17432" LastActivityDate="2019-08-29T20:43:49.467" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10900" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10890" CreationDate="2019-08-29T21:25:10.180" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;To downsize the firmware you can manually disable a lot of less useful stuff. E.g. why have 2 pre-heating profiles for PLA and ABS while you can set hotend and heated bed manually. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of the largest memory savers is disabling arc support, &lt;code&gt;G2&lt;/code&gt;/&lt;code&gt;G3&lt;/code&gt; commands aren't used by most slicer programs. From &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/blob/1.1.x/Marlin/Configuration_adv.h&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Configuration_adv.h&lt;/a&gt; can be found that you can save more than 3000 bytes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&#xA;//&#xA;// G2/G3 Arc Support&#xA;//&#xA;#define ARC_SUPPORT               // Disable this feature to save ~3226 bytes&#xA;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can probably find more features to disable to save memory, e.g. look into question &lt;em&gt;&quot;What can be removed from Marlin 1.1.9 to fit on 128K controller? I'm currently 318 bytes over&quot;&lt;/em&gt;, quoting:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&#xA;//#define SHOW_BOOTSCREEN // enabled&#xA;//#define SHOW_CUSTOM_BOOTSCREEN // enabled&#xA;//#define CUSTOM_STATUS_SCREEN_IMAGE // enabled&#xA;//#define LCD_INFO_MENU // enabled, shows useless 'about printer' menu&#xA;//#define STATUS_MESSAGE_SCROLLING // enabled, saves some flash space&#xA;//#define DOGM_SD_PERCENT // disabled, show print % bar graph&#xA;//#define NO_WORKSPACE_OFFSETS // Disables M206 and M428&#xA;//#define ARC_SUPPORT // enabled, used for CNC toolpaths&#xA;#define NO_VOLUMETRICS // disabled, not used without width sensor?&#xA;//#define SCROLL_LONG_FILENAMES&#xA;#define SLIM_LCD_MENUS // Disable 'extraneous' menu items&#xA;//#define SPEAKER // Disable beeper if you don't want it.&#xA;//#define LEVEL_BED_CORNERS&#xA;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2019-08-29T21:25:10.180" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10901" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10893" CreationDate="2019-08-29T23:40:11.387" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cold/Luke-Warm pulling can cause damage and wear to the hot end, and should only be used in cases where you suspect there's a jam in the nozzle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pulling the filament out at a few degrees above its normal printing temperature and pulling quickly is what I use, and what I've seen other's also say, and the procedure most machines use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6996" LastActivityDate="2019-08-29T23:40:11.387" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10902" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5381" CreationDate="2019-08-29T23:58:33.597" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;For anything where there is an &lt;strong&gt;open or bandaged wound&lt;/strong&gt;, you should NOT use 3D printing, and should use sterilized medical equipment to prevent infection and heavy metals infiltrating the bloodstream.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;SLA/SLS 3D printing may be the best option for replicating the complex structure of the splint you have pictured above, as FDM printers have difficulty reproducing those structures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, FDM printing CAN reproduce it, and generally FDM printers have access to a wider variety of materials of which models can be printed with, so they may be the best option overall.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For something to immobilize a body part that has been broken, you may want to use a stiff material such as ABS or Carbon Fibre, However PLA may work still in these cases.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for something to support a body part, Flexible or Semi-Flexible materials may be desired, such as Ninjaflex (TPU), Nylon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a disclaimer:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;I am not a medical professional, This is not medical advice, please consult a properly licenced medical professional first before using 3D printing to solve a medical ailment.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6996" LastActivityDate="2019-08-29T23:58:33.597" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10903" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10874" CreationDate="2019-08-30T00:02:56.373" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You may want to ensure that your filament diameter is correctly set in your printer's CURA profile, and that your hot end is at the correct temperature for the material you are using. Additionally, you should not need a raft to print the cube, and should be able to do without a raft or brim.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6996" LastActivityDate="2019-08-30T00:02:56.373" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10904" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10709" CreationDate="2019-08-30T10:07:46.820" Score="1" Body="&lt;h3&gt;TL;DR&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From Davo's and cmm's answers there seems to be a wide range of drill spindle speeds used (3k-30k rpm). So, just to add to that... 11,000 rpm would appear to be adequate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have been looking into converting a Wilson II 3D printer chassis into a CNC PCB etching machine, recently. In particular, what motor I needed to replace the extruder with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A collegue pointed me to an interesting video, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9DhPwtCZ9u4&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;PCB making, PCB prototyping – UV solder mask STEP by STEP&lt;/a&gt;, produced by Wegstr (no affiliation whatsoever), and their machine uses a 11,000 rpm drill. From the &lt;a href=&quot;https://wegstr.com/CNC-Wegstr-(English)&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;specification page&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Spindle - Brushless AC motor&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Diameter of spindle - 3.175 mm (0.000737 inch)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Spindle speed - 11 000 rpm&#xA;Electronic overload protection for the spindle motor&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Apparently DC motors suffer from carbon brush wear, so a combination of DC circuitry and brushless AC motor is used for &amp;quot;superior performance and durability&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The voltage and current of the spindle motor is unclear/unspecified, but the PSU, that comes with it, outputs 12 V 5 A.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, the parts page lists the spindle motor separately, &lt;a href=&quot;https://wegstr.com/spindle-11000-rpm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;spindle 11000rpm&lt;/a&gt;, with the following specifications:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;26V DC power supply&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;11000 rpm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;designed for tools with shank diameter 3.175 mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;fastening tool with the setscrew&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;in the rear spindle 4x M4 threaded hole for mounting on a substrate&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;power consumption 25W&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;brushless construction =&amp;gt; no carbon brush wear =&amp;gt; long life&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;low noise&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, given the voltage and power consumption the current rating would seem to be ~1 A.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qGv0B.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Spindle Motor 11000 rpm&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qGv0B.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Spindle Motor 11000 rpm&quot; title=&quot;Spindle Motor 11000 rpm&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4762" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:29:41.667" LastActivityDate="2019-08-30T10:14:04.207" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10905" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10880" CreationDate="2019-08-30T14:29:14.240" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Perhaps this is veering out a little bit from being an answer to the specific differences between software functionality, but one important difference that shouldn't be overlooked is that whatever you learn with Cura is applicable to &lt;em&gt;all FDM 3D printers&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Surely some setting tweaks you do might be specific to the properties of your particular printer, but a large amount of them, like choices of infill patterns, shells, adaptive layer heights, using secondary models as custom support and infill masks, breaking up models into multiple pieces for printing, etc. are completely printer-agnostic. If you learn to do these with software that's only usable (or at least only meant to be used) with your particular brand of printers, you'll have to translate/relearn if you later want to use a different printer, or help someone else who has a different brand of printer. If you learn with software that works with any printer, everything you learn is immediately applicable to different printers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2019-08-30T14:29:14.240" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10906" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10909" CreationDate="2019-08-30T17:44:56.120" Score="7" ViewCount="1691" Body="&lt;p&gt;Why don't 3D printer heads use ceramic inner walls? PTFE tubes melt with high enough temperatures and all metal ends risk jamming as heat makes its way up the head.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17398" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-08-30T18:24:28.917" LastActivityDate="2019-08-31T02:56:26.980" Title="Why don't 3D printer heads use ceramic inner walls?" Tags="|hotend|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10907" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11027" CreationDate="2019-08-30T17:56:55.267" Score="7" ViewCount="9677" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an infrared lamp I'd like to use to heat my chamber. Right now I don't have plans to install a cooling fan, but I will if I need to. This question pertains to Marlin (2.0, preferably) in combination with an &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.robotrebels.org/index.php?topic=769.0&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;MKS Gen L v1.0 board&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the documentation for the &lt;a href=&quot;http://marlinfw.org/docs/configuration/configuration.html#thermal-settings&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;thermal settings&lt;/a&gt; it specifies you can set a heater pin to be used to heat up the chamber. It says this variable is called the &lt;code&gt;CHAMBER_HEATER_PIN&lt;/code&gt; but in Marlin 2.0's Configuration_adv.h file there is something called a &lt;code&gt;HEATER_CHAMBER_PIN&lt;/code&gt; that has been commented out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Secondly the &lt;code&gt;Configuration.h&lt;/code&gt; file:  there is something called an &lt;code&gt;AUTO_POWER_CHAMBER_FAN&lt;/code&gt;. Is this meant for a fan used for cooling, or a fan used for cleaning out the chamber of particles? In either case, I probably don't want to have this fan always on, but only use it to cool the temperature the heater has been on too long.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So really there should be only 2-3 changes I need to make right: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I need to specify an already present digital pin for&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the chamber heater&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the chamber cooler (fan)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Turn thermal runway active. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It needs to use the Marlin Chamber feature so that the readout temperature appears as &quot;C:&quot; in the arduino logs. This allows compatibility with octoprint&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lastly I need to set an analog pin for the chamber thermistor&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These are the things I can't fully figure out on my own. &#xA;A detailed set of instructions or code snippets for a similar setup would be helpful&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10369" LastEditorUserId="10369" LastEditDate="2019-09-16T03:14:49.787" LastActivityDate="2022-10-15T01:00:21.360" Title="How to set up Marlin to use a heated chamber?" Tags="|marlin|chamber|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10908" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10906" CreationDate="2019-08-30T18:13:55.427" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Because PTFE doesn't transmit heat very well? The whole idea when using a PTFE tube (and this is just my understanding ... which could be wrong), is for the tubing not to transmit heat, therefore allowing the filament to pass through it without melting or at the very least, collecting a lot of heat along the way (which helps prevent jams). PTFE does a pretty good job of standing up to heat while accomplishing the task at hand. Ceramic does an &lt;em&gt;excellent&lt;/em&gt; job of standing up to heat. The problem is, it will pass the heat along to the filament, most likely melting it, thus causing it to deform and jam before it gets to the hot end. This would then become a maintenance nightmare.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11242" LastActivityDate="2019-08-30T18:13:55.427" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10909" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10906" CreationDate="2019-08-30T18:31:19.007" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;It &lt;em&gt;can&lt;/em&gt; be done cheaply, as two different users have proven, see &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,538786&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;A practical 10 Cents Ceramic tube hotend&lt;/a&gt;, and;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?70,172916&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Hotend with ceramic parts&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, as Paulster2 states in his answer, there are some technical issues with using it, which make it rather problematic. Apparently, in comparison with PTFE, the thermal conductivity of the ceramic in spark plugs is too high, to use (according to &lt;code&gt;nophead&lt;/code&gt; - a user on the reprap forums), and there are friction/clogging issues, unless the inner diameter is very well polished.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Synopsis of reference&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The RepRap user, &lt;code&gt;hp_&lt;/code&gt;, encountered the issues above when attempting a design - from &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dobjectifying.blogspot.com/2012/12/ceramic-hotend-part-1.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Ceramic Hotend - Part 1&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Research&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;As far as I know there are no ceramic hotends out there, I know&#xA;  nophead has tried some spark-plugs for nozzle holders but found them&#xA;  not suitable(thermal conductivity is pretty high). I wanted to give it&#xA;  a go, confident enough (I hoped), that it would work :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;So in my case, a hotend exists out of 2 main parts, a nozzle holder&#xA;  and a nozzle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The nozzle is the easy part it would stay brass.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The nozzle holder is the interesting part, here is what I've come-up with&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;total length should be in the range of 35-40mm, see my first sketch&#xA;  below:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bWtva.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bWtva.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;here are many types of ceramic out there, ie. 95% AI2O3, 99% AI2O3,&#xA;  Zirconia (see material properties sheet Link)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;95% AI2O3 is easy to buy but after a few tests the conclusion was its&#xA;  to brittle for my taste, second material to try is Zirconia. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I've found a few Chinese ceramic manufactures. Only draw back I had to&#xA;  order 10 pieces for the first batch.. on something that has never been&#xA;  tested, well I'd give it a shot.... and ordered the parts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;but the clogging issue mentioned above was encountered:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;...after the first layer, it just stopped extruding.. ugh!!! what could&#xA;  be wrong????&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Possible root causes&#xA;  - Friction coefficient? Meaning after awhile the friction between PLA and the Ceramic became so high it would just jam the nozzle holder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Stickiness? Could it be that after awhile PLA would just stick to the Ceramic and would jam because of this?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;PLA thermal expansion( nozzle holder barrel is to small?) so the inner diameter of this nozzle holder is 3.2mm, could it be that the&#xA;  3.0mm filament would expand so much because of the heat, that it would start to jam the nozzle holder?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Connection between nozzle and nozzle holder is insufficient cause the Jam??&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The user was forced to return to using PTFE.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dobjectifying.blogspot.com/2013/03/ceramic-hotend-part-2.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Ceramic hotend part-2&lt;/a&gt;, after some rework done by the Chinese manufacturer, the new hotends worked correctly:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Awhile ago i stared working on the ceramic hotend and found out the&#xA;  first version wouldn't work for 3.0mm fillament,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;after some discussion with my chinese counterpart :) i got a new&#xA;  version of the ceramic piece.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;They polished the inside very deep and precise. and i gave it another&#xA;  go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;some more tinkering with the hotend and a new nozzle design, with a smaller Inner diameter, and its longer &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Apart from that the details are a little sparse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Additional information&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From &lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,295259&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;J-head with ceramic body instead of PEEK&lt;/a&gt;, specifically &lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,295259,301258#msg-301258&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this post&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;    &lt;p&gt;Just to be clear, it's Ceramic Zirconium.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;    &#xA;    &lt;p&gt;My concern was that Zirconium becomes brittle when it is exposed to heat for consecutive long periods of time. I would stay with PEEK.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;MgO or Yttria stabilized grades of Zirconium are very stable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Pure ZrO2 is known to crack, so additives are used to stabilize it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Key Properties of Zirconium Oxide&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;Use temperatures up to 2400°C&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;High density&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Low thermal conductivity (20% that of alumina)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Chemical inertness&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Resistance to molten metals&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Ionic electrical conduction&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Wear resistance&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;High fracture toughness&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;High hardness&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Typical Uses of ZrO2&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Precision ball valve balls and seats&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;High density ball and pebble mill grinding media&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Rollers and guides for metal tube forming&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Thread and wire guides&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;Hot metal extrusion dies&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Deep well down-hole valves and seats  -Powder compacting dies&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Marine pump seals and shaft guides&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Oxygen sensors&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;High temperature induction furnace susceptors&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Fuel cell membranes&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;Electric furnace heaters over 2000°C in oxidizing atmospheres&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Zirconium oxide&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Zirconium oxide is used due to its polymorphism. It exists in three&#xA;  phases: monoclinic, tetragonal, and cubic. Cooling to the monoclinic&#xA;  phase after sintering causes a large volume change, which often causes&#xA;  stress fractures in pure zirconia. &lt;em&gt;Additives such as magnesium,&#xA;  calcium and yttrium are utilized in the manufacture of the knife&#xA;  material to stabilize the high-temperature phases and minimize this&#xA;  volume change&lt;/em&gt;. The highest strength and toughness is produced by the&#xA;  addition of 3 mol% yttrium oxide yielding partially stabilized&#xA;  zirconia. This material consists of a mixture of tetragonal and cubic&#xA;  phases with a bending strength of nearly 1200 MPa. Small cracks allow&#xA;  phase transformations to occur, which essentially close the cracks and&#xA;  prevent catastrophic failure, resulting in a relatively tough ceramic&#xA;  material, sometimes known as TTZ (transformation toughened zirconia). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Zirconium dioxide is one of the most studied ceramic materials. &lt;em&gt;Pure&#xA;  ZrO2&lt;/em&gt; has a monoclinic crystal structure at room temperature and&#xA;  transitions to tetragonal and cubic at increasing temperatures. The&#xA;  volume expansion caused by the cubic to tetragonal to monoclinic&#xA;  transformation induces very large stresses, and will cause pure ZrO2&#xA;  to crack upon cooling from high temperatures. Several different oxides&#xA;  are added to zirconia to stabilize the tetragonal and/or cubic phases:&#xA;  magnesium oxide (MgO), yttrium oxide, (Y2O3), calcium oxide (CaO), and&#xA;  cerium(III) oxide (Ce2O3), amongst others.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;In the late 1980s, ceramic engineers learned to stabilize the&#xA;  tetragonal form at room temperature by adding small amounts (3–8&#xA;  mass%) of calcium and later yttrium or cerium. Although stabilized at&#xA;  room temperature, the tetragonal form is “metastable,” meaning that&#xA;  trapped energy exists within the material to drive it back to the&#xA;  monoclinic state. The highly localized stress ahead of a propagating&#xA;  crack is sufficient to trigger grains of ceramic to transform in the&#xA;  vicinity of that crack tip. In this case, the 4.4% volume increase&#xA;  becomes beneficial, essentially squeezing the crack closed (i.e.,&#xA;  transformation decreases the local stress intensity).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and the &lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,295259,301259#msg-301259&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;following post&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Thermal conductivity:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Diamond thermal conductivity: 1000 W/(m·K).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Copper thermal conductivity: 385 to 401 W/(m·K).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Aluminum: 205 W/(m·K).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Stainless steel 16 W/(m·K).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Granite: 1.7 to 4 W/(m·K).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Zirconia has a typical thermal conductivity of 1.7 to 2.2 W/(m·K).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Porcelain has a typical thermal conductivity of 1.5 to 5 W/(m·K).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Glass thermal conductivity: 1.05 W/(m·K).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Rulon&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As an aside, again from &lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,295259&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;J-head with ceramic body instead of PEEK&lt;/a&gt;, specifically &lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,295259,301193#msg-301193&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this post&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Rulon was one material we used. I think it is a glass filled ptfe. The mechanical strength is far better than solid ptfe and it is easy to machine. There are many grades but Rulon AR for example will withstand 288 deg C.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;but there are inconsistencies in quality&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Rulon i looked at a while ago, there are plenty of options with it, however the cost of some of these materials can be incredibly high, and in some cases availability is a serious problem, and the difference country to country is borderline criminal in some cases&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4762" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2019-08-31T02:56:26.980" LastActivityDate="2019-08-31T02:56:26.980" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10910" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-08-30T22:54:35.223" Score="0" ViewCount="332" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've just built my son's A6 and have connected all cables apart from the last power cables. The mainboard says hotbed line and extruder line but the cable says heatbed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The cables are two red which are crimped together and two black crimped together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All of the videos online show a different mainboard and connections.&#xA;There are more connections than cables because the wires are crimped.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can't get my head around which wires go where, any ideas?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17443" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2019-08-31T09:20:26.120" LastActivityDate="2019-09-01T15:35:05.240" Title="Anet A6 assembly problem - remaining power cables don't match instructions" Tags="|printer-building|anet-a6|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10911" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10910" CreationDate="2019-08-31T07:38:52.200" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The manual appears to be available here, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.elektor.com/amfile/file/download/file/1606/product/8457/&amp;amp;usg=AOvVaw3bQeEWg--MsnW9KbsTKc_c&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Installation Instruction_Anet A6 3D Printer - Elektor&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, according to &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/groups/anet-a6/forums/general/topic:15480#comment-1342949&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this comment&lt;/a&gt; from &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/groups/anet-a6/forums/general/topic:15480&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Hard copy of the build guide?&lt;/a&gt;, there is a mistake in the PDF of the manual, with respect to the heatbed, and as such, it is better to follow the videos:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I find it is better to use the 3 videos:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hOasLyRQk3E&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;3D Printer Instruction--Anet 3D Printer A6 Assembly Video 1&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mQzOHL_89nc&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;3D Printer Instruction--Anet 3D Printer A6 Assembly Video 2&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uars72RdzK8&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Printer Instruction- A6 - Hot Bed Level Adjustment and Print Test&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Only errors in the videos and i believe the instuction the Hetbed&#xA;fixing plate i have build diffrently , rotated by 180 degrees&#xA;vertical, since it is better for the belt and somewhere in the video&#xA;during fixating of the end-switch and the blower he interchanged the&#xA;screws.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, looking at the manual, if it is to be believed, then be aware that &lt;em&gt;as well as&lt;/em&gt; one connection for the extruder motor, there are two connectors &lt;em&gt;each&lt;/em&gt; for &lt;em&gt;both&lt;/em&gt; the extruder and the hotbed heaters:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;One for the separate heating elements, of the extruder and hotbed respectively, and;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;One for the thermistor sensor (both the extruder &lt;em&gt;and&lt;/em&gt; the hotbed have separate thermistors).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This makes &lt;em&gt;five in total&lt;/em&gt; for the extruder and the hotbed combined.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WCBtC.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Mainboard A6&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WCBtC.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Mainboard A6&quot; title=&quot;Mainboard A6&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, the power connections for the Extruder &lt;em&gt;motor&lt;/em&gt; has four pins (in white at the top), whereas the heating elements for the hotbed and the extruder have two pins and are of a different shape (in green on the left). The sensor connections for both the extruder and the sensor have three pins (in white at the bottom), but it should be easy not to confuse them, so long as you follow the wires to check to which component they go to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Additional points to be aware of&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/groups/anet-a6/forums/general/topic:15480#comment-1343762&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this comment&lt;/a&gt; in the same thread:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I just built an A6 three weeks ago and with the videos it is really a&#xA;breeze to assemble the unit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just pay attention to the heat bed mounting plate as it is installed&#xA;bottoms up in the video. The bar connecting the outer two plates where&#xA;the heat bed is finally mounted should be below the plates, not above&#xA;as in the video.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, if you still have time, order some decent toothed belt, Igus&#xA;Drylin RJ4JP-01, and toothwheels for the Y and X belts and replace the&#xA;original pulleys, bearings, and belts before you even assemble the&#xA;unit. I just changed mine last week and it does make a hell of a&#xA;difference - with this little upgrades (cost me less than 30$ for&#xA;everything - at Amazon) you upgrade from an okay printer to a really&#xA;decent machine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The belt: &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B0152ZNDLK&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.amazon.com/Anycubic-Meters-Timing-Pulleys-Printer/dp/B0152ZNDLK&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The pulleys: &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B0188HW4Z0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.amazon.com/Aluminum-Bearing-Timing-3D-printers/dp/B0188HW4Z0&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The bearings: &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B06XPRCMJS&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.amazon.com/Printer-Solid-Polymer-LM8UU-Bearing/dp/B06XPRCMJS&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;(actually, you need 8 pieces - not seven as in the images - 4 for the&#xA;Y-axis and 4 for the X-axis)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The above are not the actual articles I've bought because I am from&#xA;Europe where Amazon sells in different quantities.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to go on the safe side, grab a second power supply and two&#xA;MOSFET boards to remove the high current from the mainboard:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;PSU: &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B00D7CWSCG&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.amazon.com/eTopxizu-Universal-Regulated-Switching-Computer/dp/B00D7CWSCG&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;(just as an example)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;MOSFET: &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B01MY50JL3&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.amazon.com/Wangdd22-Printer-Expansion-Heatbed-Current/dp/B01MY50JL3&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Power socket and switch: &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B00ME5YAPK&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.amazon.com/URBEST-Module-Switch-Certification-Socket/dp/B00ME5YAPK&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Last recommendation: get some 3mm borosilicate glass to lay (clip)&#xA;over the heatbed. This will make the prints stick better and also&#xA;provide a perfectly flat surface for the builds (still, you'll need to&#xA;do the levelling)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Glass:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B00QQ5Q3BI&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.amazon.com/Signstek-Printer-Tempered-Borosilicate-2132003mm/dp/B00QQ5Q3BI&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When assembling the heatbed mount, pay lots of attention to the 16&#xA;screws. Tighten them one by one diagonally and move the bed around. If&#xA;the bed feels stuck, loosen the last screws and shift the mounts&#xA;around a bit. The lighter this mount moves, the better your prints&#xA;will be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One thing that you must be aware: This printer is a great little unit,&#xA;but it needs love, dedication and plenty upgrades. Out of the box it&#xA;works okay, but with the upgrades it becomes a really good unit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4762" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:29:41.667" LastActivityDate="2019-08-31T08:03:22.253" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10912" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2019-08-31T08:30:20.233" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.anet3d.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Anet&lt;/a&gt; A2, a clone of the Prusa i3,  uses aluminium profiles for the frame. It is available as a kit to build yourself, is an affordable low-cost desktop 3D printer made by Anet, a manufacturer based in China. This kit is easy to assemble and a cheap entry level printer. It features a heated bed, a Bowden extruder goes up to 250 °C and an LCD for interfacing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4762" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2019-08-31T08:30:20.233" LastActivityDate="2019-08-31T08:30:20.233" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10913" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2019-08-31T08:30:20.233" Score="0" Body="This tag should be used for specific questions about specific issues for the Anet A2 printers." OwnerUserId="4762" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2019-08-31T08:30:20.233" LastActivityDate="2019-08-31T08:30:20.233" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10914" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2019-08-31T08:30:51.250" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2019-08-31T08:30:51.250" LastActivityDate="2019-08-31T08:30:51.250" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10915" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2019-08-31T08:30:51.250" Score="0" Body="Filled PLA is PLA that contains a sizable amount of material such as metal or ceramic powder or wood fibers to create specific looks or effects." OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2019-08-31T08:30:51.250" LastActivityDate="2019-08-31T08:30:51.250" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10916" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2019-08-31T08:31:51.927" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Anet A6 is a low-cost Chinese clone of the Prusa i3 design of Josef Průša.  The design of the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.anet3d.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Anet&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.anet3d.com/ProductsStd_179.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;A6&lt;/a&gt; is focused on creating an easy accessible, low cost budget printer rather than maximizing the quality of the printer. The acrylic frame does not provide enough stiffness like the metal frame of the original, but the community has developed a lot of &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprint.wiki/reprap/anet/a6&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;upgrades&lt;/a&gt; for this printer to modify it to a decent printer for its value.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4762" LastEditorUserId="4808" LastEditDate="2020-07-13T06:11:55.960" LastActivityDate="2020-07-13T06:11:55.960" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10917" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2019-08-31T08:31:51.927" Score="0" Body="This tag should be used for specific questions about specific issues for the Anet A6 printers. " OwnerUserId="4762" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2019-08-31T08:31:51.927" LastActivityDate="2019-08-31T08:31:51.927" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10918" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2019-08-31T08:32:24.953" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2019-08-31T08:32:24.953" LastActivityDate="2019-08-31T08:32:24.953" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10919" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2019-08-31T08:32:24.953" Score="0" Body="The first iteration of the Ultimaker Printer is also known as Ultimaker Original." OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2019-08-31T08:32:24.953" LastActivityDate="2019-08-31T08:32:24.953" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10920" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2019-08-31T08:33:01.790" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2019-08-31T08:33:01.790" LastActivityDate="2019-08-31T08:33:01.790" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10921" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2019-08-31T08:33:01.790" Score="0" Body="Questions about the second iteration of the Ultimaker printer and its variant versions, the Ultimaker 2+, Ultimaker 2 Extended and Ultimaker 2 Go." OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2019-08-31T09:55:21.210" LastActivityDate="2019-08-31T09:55:21.210" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10922" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2019-08-31T08:33:24.903" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2019-08-31T08:33:24.903" LastActivityDate="2019-08-31T08:33:24.903" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10923" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2019-08-31T08:33:24.903" Score="0" Body="The third iteration of the Ultimaker printer and its derivates." OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2019-08-31T08:33:24.903" LastActivityDate="2019-08-31T08:33:24.903" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10924" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2019-08-31T08:33:46.467" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Anet A8 is low-cost Chinese clone of the Prusa i3 design of Josef Průša. The design of the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.anet3d.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Anet&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.anet3d.com/ProductsStd_179.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;A8&lt;/a&gt; is focused on creating an easy accessible, low cost budget printer rather than maximizing the quality of the printer. The acrylic frame does not provide enough stiffness like the metal frame of the original, but the community has developed a lot of &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprint.wiki/reprap/anet/a8&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;upgrades&lt;/a&gt; for this printer to modify it to a decent printer for its value.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4762" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2019-08-31T08:33:46.467" LastActivityDate="2019-08-31T08:33:46.467" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10925" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2019-08-31T08:33:46.467" Score="0" Body="This tag should be used for specific questions about specific issues for the Anet A8 printers." OwnerUserId="4762" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2019-08-31T08:33:46.467" LastActivityDate="2019-08-31T08:33:46.467" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10926" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2019-08-31T08:53:31.633" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;For questions regarding the use or troubleshooting of the slicing software UltiMaker Cura which was formerly known by Cura solely before the re-branding. It is developed by UltiMaker together with the community and works as an open platform to support most 3D Printers on the market or home-build printers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4762" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2023-10-28T11:52:33.043" LastActivityDate="2023-10-28T11:52:33.043" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10927" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2019-08-31T08:53:31.633" Score="0" Body="Questions about the slicing program called Ultimaker Cura." OwnerUserId="4762" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2019-08-31T08:53:31.633" LastActivityDate="2019-08-31T08:53:31.633" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10928" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2019-08-31T09:24:48.303" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;FlashPrint is the slicer made by FlashForge Corporation, natively supporting their own printers. More information &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.flashforge.com/software/detail/Flashprint?id=40&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-05-11T05:32:07.447" LastActivityDate="2020-05-11T05:32:07.447" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10929" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2019-08-31T09:24:48.303" Score="0" Body="FlashPrint is the slicer produced by FlashForge Corporation to be native for their printers." OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2019-08-31T09:35:07.277" LastActivityDate="2019-08-31T09:35:07.277" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10930" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2019-08-31T09:31:04.203" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Finder is an FDM 3D printer manufactured by FlashForge Corporation. More information &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.flashforge.com/consumer/Finder%20series?id=15&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;FlashForge Corporation was founded in 2011 and is a manufacturer of 3D printers, based out of China.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2019-08-31T09:40:41.967" LastActivityDate="2019-08-31T09:40:41.967" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10931" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2019-08-31T09:31:04.203" Score="0" Body="Questions using this tag should involve the Finder 3D printer that is manufactured by FlashForge Corporation" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2019-08-31T09:31:04.203" LastActivityDate="2019-08-31T09:31:04.203" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10932" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2019-08-31T09:32:41.950" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Creator is a series of FDM 3D printers manufactured by FlashForge Corporation. More information on the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.flashforge.com/consumer/Creator%20Pro%20series?id=12&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Pro&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.flashforge.com/professional/Creator%203%20series?id=9&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Version 3&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2019-08-31T09:32:41.950" LastActivityDate="2019-08-31T09:32:41.950" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10933" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2019-08-31T09:32:41.950" Score="0" Body="Questions using this tag should involve the Creator series of 3D printers that are manufactured by FlashForge Corporation" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2019-08-31T09:32:41.950" LastActivityDate="2019-08-31T09:32:41.950" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10934" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-08-31T12:33:28.350" Score="5" ViewCount="16455" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have just got an Ender 3, I got a friend to build it for me, as my hands are not great. Which means I don't know what bit does what.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My problem is when I click on home setting, my nozzle is in front of my base plate and below it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have watched every video I can find about the set up, but they all assume that bit is ok. I have changed the axis setting to put it on it but it doesn't save the settings and as soon as I hit home its off the base plate again. I don't want to go any further re-printing, so at the moment it's just an ornament.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What am I doing wrong?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17447" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2019-08-31T16:51:36.313" LastActivityDate="2019-08-31T16:51:36.313" Title="How to change &quot;home&quot; settings on Ender 3" Tags="|creality-ender-3|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10935" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10934" CreationDate="2019-08-31T14:04:13.500" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This isn't a matter of settings but physical adjustment (the endstop switches). Having the head home slightly off the bed in the X and/or Y direction is a &lt;em&gt;good thing&lt;/em&gt;, because it means the Z homing can't crash into the bed if the bed height is misadjusted. On my Ender 3, the X axis homes slightly into the bed, but the Y homes such that the nozzle tip is in front of the bed. Note that normally you don't try to print at X=0 or Y=0 anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for the Z homing, you have to adjust the bed height (&quot;bed leveling&quot;) via the 4 wheels under the corners of the bed to bring it to the right height. If you can't get it below the nozzle with the wheels all the way tightened, your Z endstop switch must be installed incorrectly. The Ender 3's Z endstop bracket is supposed to fit against the corner of the aluminum extrusion just below it so that it doesn't need adjustment, but it's possible to mount it incorrectly higher. This is a bad idea because if it loosens it can move. It might also be possible to incorrectly install it lower, in which case it would be misaligned because the machine screws couldn't be tightened down all the way. This is also a bad idea. Make sure it's in the right place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for actual bed height adjustment/leveling, there are lots of good guides to that and I won't try to reproduce/improve on them here. The &quot;sheet of paper&quot; method is very good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2019-08-31T14:04:13.500" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10936" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10940" CreationDate="2019-08-31T17:55:04.807" Score="5" ViewCount="3153" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can see small gaps in the print which looks like under extrusion (see image below).&#xA;What is the reason for that?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've tried smaller retracting distances. Temperature looks stable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Print settings:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;PETG from Extruder&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;245&amp;nbsp;°C Printing temperature&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;50&amp;nbsp;mm/s print speed&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;25&amp;nbsp;mm/s wall speed&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;30&amp;nbsp;mm/s retracting speed&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1&amp;nbsp;mm retraction distance -&gt; stringing...&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Print cooling fan is enabled&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Setup:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;E3D Titan Aero&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Duet Wifi&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1,5&amp;nbsp;A Motor current for feeder motor&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;250&amp;nbsp;mm/s&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; feeder max acceleration &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Slicer:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ultimaker Cura 4.0&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yXGPn.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Small gaps in the print&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yXGPn.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Small gaps in the print&quot; title=&quot;Small gaps in the print&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17450" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2019-09-30T10:16:53.420" LastActivityDate="2019-09-30T10:16:53.420" Title="Under extrusion... sometimes" Tags="|petg|retraction|underextrusion|e3d-titan|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10937" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-08-31T18:16:16.677" Score="2" ViewCount="512" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've asked a question before on the extruder gear clicking on my CR-10, but I'm certain its because of the nozzle getting clogged for some reason. I'm using a standard 0.4&amp;nbsp;mm nozzle with white PLA and randomly during the print the extruder gear starts clicking on the fast parts and then under extrudes the rest of the print, eventually the hobbed gear digs away at the filament and doesn't grip anymore. Why would the nozzle keep getting clogged? Could it be because the filament isn't high enough quality and is leaving particles in the nozzle? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/j83BN.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/j83BN.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally, when I performed a cold pull after breaking up the blockage on the inside, the filament came out like a thin film even though it was purging fine before I cooled it down. Why?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PwXZl.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PwXZl.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;190&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C nozzle temperature (tried printing at 210&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C and the filament burned)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;50&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C bed temperature&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;60&amp;nbsp;mm/s speed, outline 50&amp;nbsp;% - first layer being 30&amp;nbsp;mm/s&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;0.2&amp;nbsp;mm layer height&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This starting happening after I returned to printing after a 6 month break, with the filament being stored in a cool and dry cupboard for around a year (the filament was on the cheaper side, but still highly recommended by SUNLU)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17392" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-08-31T22:21:52.257" LastActivityDate="2019-09-03T06:35:41.953" Title="Problems with under extrusion and clogs on CR-10" Tags="|nozzle|creality-cr-10|underextrusion|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10938" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2019-08-31T21:43:18.533" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Ultimaker company released their first complete product in March 2011 which they called the &quot;Ultimaker&quot;. This first printer was renamed in 2013 to &quot;Ultimaker Original&quot; under a Creative Commons BY-NC license. Rather being a self replicating printer, this printer focussed on faster replication by using laser cutting plywood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-08-31T21:43:18.533" LastActivityDate="2019-08-31T21:43:18.533" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10939" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2019-08-31T21:43:18.533" Score="0" Body="The first iteration of the Ultimaker printer is also known as Ultimaker Original." OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-08-31T21:43:18.533" LastActivityDate="2019-08-31T21:43:18.533" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10940" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10936" CreationDate="2019-08-31T21:46:29.487" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here's your problem:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;1&amp;nbsp;mm retraction distance -&gt; stringing...&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have stringing, that means that material that was supposed to end up as part of printed lines instead ended up somewhere else, leaving less material (underextrusion) where it was actually wanted. This particular test piece may not exhibit stringing, but it's likely that it occurred interior to the piece, in the infill region. Contrary to widespread(?) opinion, stringing here is not harmless. It's just not visibly ugly. But it still messes up the surface quality, and even more importantly the strength, of your print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You don't say if your printer has a bowden extruder or direct drive. If a Bowden, the 1&amp;nbsp;mm of retraction is virtually useless; a typical Bowden system has more than 1&amp;nbsp;mm just of &lt;em&gt;compression&lt;/em&gt; between the extruder gear and the hotend, meaning that retracting by 1&amp;nbsp;mm does not pull the filament back out of the hotend at all, and doesn't even relieve all the pressure that's pushing melted material out. I would recommend an absolute minimum of 5&amp;nbsp;mm for Bowden type extruders, unless your printer firmware has linear advance (Marlin 1.1.9+ or comparable features in other firmware) in which case you might be able to reduce it some. For direct drive, I don't have experience, but 1&amp;nbsp;mm is still probably too low; 2.5&amp;nbsp;mm is the believable recommendation I've heard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition to retraction, you can further reduce material loss to stringing/oozing in the infill region by turning on Ultimaker Cura's &quot;Zig-zaggify infill&quot; option, which helps avoid in generating travel without retraction over unprinted area within the infill zone (see e.g. &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/Ultimaker/CuraEngine/issues/1084&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this issue&lt;/a&gt;). Turning slicer setting &quot;combing&quot; to &quot;off&quot; is an even more extreme option here. Of course make sure retraction is really on (not &quot;retract at layer change&quot;, which is a separate, mostly useless option) and make sure &quot;retraction minimum travel&quot; is set low (something like 150&amp;nbsp;% of the nozzle width or less) to prevent retraction from getting skipped on short travel moves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also just noticed you wrote:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I've tried smaller retracting distances...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This was probably based on erroneous advice. Reducing or eliminating retraction does not mitigate these sorts of problems; it creates them. The only reasons to reduce retraction distance are to fight problems with the extruder gear grinding down the filament after repeated retraction, and problems with jamming the path into the hotend due to pulling molten material back into the cool part where it then solidifies and jams. If you're not having such problems you should not reduce retraction. If you are having such problems, you should try to fix them in other ways that still let you keep the necessary amount of retraction not to have catastrophic print quality problems from material coming out in the wrong places.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-09-01T20:49:00.830" LastActivityDate="2019-09-01T20:49:00.830" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10941" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10860" CreationDate="2019-08-31T22:17:46.703" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Turns out the filament was the problem, I tried printing a model with a high quality sample PLA filament I had and it printed perfectly; one of the cleanest prints I've had. Never skimp on filament.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/M1Ado.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17392" LastActivityDate="2019-08-31T22:17:46.703" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10942" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10937" CreationDate="2019-08-31T22:23:15.843" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Turns out the filament was the problem, I tried printing a model with a high quality sample PLA filament I had and it printed perfectly; one of the cleanest prints I've had. Never skimp on filament.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AT3cW.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17392" LastActivityDate="2019-08-31T22:23:15.843" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10943" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10910" CreationDate="2019-09-01T15:35:05.240" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Thanx for the help, got it running now.&#xA;The board in the pic is the older version, my problem was the wires for the extruder had been cut really short for some reason and not labled.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17443" LastActivityDate="2019-09-01T15:35:05.240" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10945" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-09-02T09:38:54.833" Score="3" ViewCount="734" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I am having trouble with this white pla, I am currently printing with a tempature of 225 degrees and going lower worsen the printing, but what I find strange is that it is always the same area that screws up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am using a Prusa MK3S, and printing with this fillament: &lt;a href=&quot;https://shop.prusa3d.com/en/filament/39-white-pla-filament-1kg.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://shop.prusa3d.com/en/filament/39-white-pla-filament-1kg.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/K86Zf.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/K86Zf.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;NEW INFORMATION, this only happens with my white pla. I have a Silver one, and it prints it perfectly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Secound white print, see that silver pla is totally fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wCAxR.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wCAxR.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17463" LastEditorUserId="17463" LastEditDate="2019-09-02T14:44:55.900" LastActivityDate="2019-09-02T15:16:45.360" Title="Printing with White pla, problems while printing a benchy boat" Tags="|pla|print-failure|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10948" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10945" CreationDate="2019-09-02T15:16:45.360" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Even from the same manufacturer different colors of filament have (slightly) different properties requiring different settings of your slicer.&#xA;But here it seems you have some underextrusion at this hight. Have you tried again the same file with the same filament and the same settings? It could be a fault in the white filament at that spot that (temporarily) clogged your nozzle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6812" LastActivityDate="2019-09-02T15:16:45.360" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10949" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10936" CreationDate="2019-09-02T15:18:03.460" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I increased the retracting distance to 1.5mm. Speed was set to 30mm/s&#xA;Printing temperature is still 245°C&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The screw which is pressing the filament to the drive gear was too tight.&#xA;So the stepper lost steps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;-&gt; No stringing and no under extrusion anymore. prints are looking good now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17450" LastActivityDate="2019-09-02T15:18:03.460" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10950" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5942" CreationDate="2019-09-02T17:54:44.437" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most of the latest Windows 10 systems with high speed USB (USB3.0) fail to recognize USB to Serial connector (which is here: CH430).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Try with a decent self powered USB 2.0 hub that has been seen to fix a majority of USB 3.0 port issues, or try by disabling driver signature enforcement on Win10.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17465" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2019-09-02T23:29:24.143" LastActivityDate="2019-09-02T23:29:24.143" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10951" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-09-02T19:09:14.157" Score="2" ViewCount="1859" Body="&lt;p&gt;I got my ender 3 about a month ago, it was working fine. Tried a new brand, overture, this is when I started experiencing problems. First, I was clogging nozzles left and right, then I went back to hatchbox, and my layers are messed up... &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TXuzX.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TXuzX.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17466" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2020-01-31T18:08:18.450" LastActivityDate="2020-06-29T19:08:05.760" Title="Uneven layers- Ender 3" Tags="|print-quality|creality-ender-3|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10953" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10677" CreationDate="2019-09-03T06:30:03.087" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;White PLA is some of the nastiest stuff to print with, it's very impure. Could you try to make the same print, but with another filament?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;230 degrees might be a bit too high of a temperature, normally PLA is printed between 215-225. Try to decrease and increase the temperature with 5 degrees to see if there is any differences as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, could you show us a completely flat, 1 layer print? Basically just a rectangle. Basically I want to see your first layer height.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17463" LastActivityDate="2019-09-03T06:30:03.087" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10954" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10937" CreationDate="2019-09-03T06:35:41.953" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;White PLA is usually some of the worst stuff to print with, generally avoid it. I would say. I myself are having a lot of problems with it as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17463" LastActivityDate="2019-09-03T06:35:41.953" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10955" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-09-03T07:13:47.747" Score="5" ViewCount="2685" Body="&lt;p&gt;Do we need mold release agent in 3D printing mold? If it is not used, what effect will it have on the product?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17471" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-09-03T07:53:47.733" LastActivityDate="2019-09-30T22:47:16.253" Title="Can mold release agent be used in 3D printing?" Tags="|print-material|molds|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10956" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10951" CreationDate="2019-09-03T09:41:49.767" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Seems like in Movement without displaycement in x and y it seems to fit (neck-area).&#xA;I also would check your belts. There may be a bit too much friction.&#xA;Otherwise have you made some Testprints (calibration cube, boat)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Especially the base looks bad. But it is not a cylinder or?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want, you may show us your 3dModell (rendered)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17473" LastActivityDate="2019-09-03T09:41:49.767" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10957" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7140" CreationDate="2019-09-03T10:31:17.013" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would also like to take a look at the A2plus Workbench (Freecad Addon). There you can define constraints which can help with this problem. As far as I know, parts cannot be moved with the mouse pointer, but angle parameters can be entered.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://freecadweb.org/wiki/A2plus_Workbench&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://freecadweb.org/wiki/A2plus_Workbench&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17474" LastActivityDate="2019-09-03T10:31:17.013" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10958" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10955" CreationDate="2019-09-03T16:21:19.017" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Welcome to the 3D Printing Stack Exchange site.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Used in Casting&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A mold release agent is commonly used when a part is cast.  The release agent is placed on the inside of the mold before the liquid object is added.  As the object becomes solid, the release agent prevents the object from adhering to the mold.  As a result, the objects are easier to pop out of the mold, and in some processes, the mold can be reused.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;3D Printing is Different&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A mold release agent is used to allow the desired part to be separated from the mold.  In FDM (thin plastic extrusions bonding together into objects) 3D printing, the object is surrounded by air, except for the bottom where the object contacts the print bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Bed Adhesion&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For most materials, getting the bottom of the object to stick firmly enough is the problem faced, rather than making it easy to remove.  In many cases, a compound is placed on the top of the bed to help the plastic stick to the bed.  It is a &quot;mode adhesion agent&quot; rather than a release agent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For some combinations of materials, the bed material and the plastic have a particularly strong adhesion, such that it can be difficult to remove the object without damaging the bed surface.  Notably, this occurs with a PEI bed and PETG plastic.  In this and similar cases, the mold adhesion agents can be used on the bed.  This slightly separates the plastic from the bed material, and we can avoid bed damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Internal Adhesion&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With multimaterial printers becoming more common, there are cases where two parts which might touch and stich during printing should be isolated during the printing process.  A second (or third) material can be used to isolate the parts.  If the isolation material is sufficiently different from the desired objects, it can be removed by a solvent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This approach is limited to cases where the objects should be separated by at least one printer thickness of the soluble material.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2082" LastActivityDate="2019-09-03T16:21:19.017" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10959" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10951" CreationDate="2019-09-03T17:23:04.003" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I wonder if this problem is unrelated to your material or printer, and purely a matter of slicer breakage. Have you tried printing gcode files you created before the problem appeared? If you use Cura and upgraded it, you might have hit one of the bugs where it assumes by default you have 2.85 mm filament, even though your printer actually uses 1.75 mm. That will create underextrusion that has the whole printed object coming apart like an unravelling mummy. When I've seen it happen, it looks very similar to your picture.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2019-09-03T17:23:04.003" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10960" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10951" CreationDate="2019-09-03T17:27:42.310" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Have you replaced your extruder stepper assembly with a metal one? I had a similar issue after a month of printing on my ender 3 because the plastic part had worn through and was causing drag on the filament.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17477" LastActivityDate="2019-09-03T17:27:42.310" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10961" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10875" CreationDate="2019-09-03T18:37:20.040" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;An easier but less simple solution might be to make a PLA 'pattern' that is the right size and shape, then use that to cast your item in aluminium  (melting point ~ 660C) using the 'investment' or 'lost PLA' process.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Links:- &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.instructables.com/id/3D-Printed-Lost-PLA-Investment-Casting-Aluminium/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.instructables.com/id/3D-Printed-Lost-PLA-Investment-Casting-Aluminium/&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/qxj5eUkAFUI?start=0&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17478" LastActivityDate="2019-09-03T18:37:20.040" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10962" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10992" CreationDate="2019-09-03T20:25:38.783" Score="4" ViewCount="11057" Body="&lt;p&gt;I run quite a few Ender 3 Pro's using the same slicer settings (Simplify3D), and just recently I have noticed a very odd extrusion problem. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I find that at about the same height on several printers the printer under extrudes by quite a margin. After that, it either continues to under extrude for the rest of the print or it will go back to extruding proper amounts of filament with no problem. This destroys the print and makes it both structurally weak and defective. I am wasting quite a bit of PLA trying to fix this problem so any help would be appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is what I have done so far:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I first made sure that the hobbed gear is clean.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I tried extruding the filament with a very hot temp (240C) there were no problems here and the filament extruded fine albeit, it was not on the bed, just extruding into the air to see if the problem was heat. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I tried the same thing as above but with a low temp (180) this also proved just fine again extruding in the air.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I calibrated my E steps per mm, those are fine and accurate.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I tried increasing my flow rate to 118%&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I tried switching to a different nozzle&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I tried switching to a different hobbed gear&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I tried switching the mechanism that pushes the filament up against the hobbed gear&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's about it. Not sure where to go from here so if anyone out there can think of anything I missed, I would love to hear it!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT 1:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As per @fred_dot_u asked, the elapsed time at the layer of failure is roughly four hours in. I have also attached a picture of one example of this kind of failure below. I would also like to mention that this is happening on several of these printers as I have 18 printers running in one room. Our current theory is that the power draw is simply too high and so the printers are not getting the heat they need, however, the thermistors still register a solid 195C on my printers that are currently running.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/c7D32.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/c7D32.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;side of building with layer underextrusion&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT 2:&#xA;Here is another picture of a different model with the same layer failure problem but at a lower layer height. This model was printed along with 11 other identical models on the same bed, all of which failed at the same height.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bb3g2.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bb3g2.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Model with layer failure at a different height&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17480" LastEditorUserId="17480" LastEditDate="2019-09-03T23:21:44.087" LastActivityDate="2021-01-23T18:35:41.497" Title="Ender 3 Pro Filament extrusion problems" Tags="|pla|creality-ender-3|extrusion|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="15" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10963" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10964" CreationDate="2019-09-04T03:31:14.850" Score="8" ViewCount="3952" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have what I assume to be a brass nozzle, and I only print in PLA. I am starting to have some issues with first layers and stringing. I'm wondering if I should replace the nozzle. What signs should I look for to know when to replace the nozzle?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10422" LastActivityDate="2019-09-05T07:42:46.263" Title="When should I replace the nozzle on my printer?" Tags="|nozzle|fdm|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10964" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10963" CreationDate="2019-09-04T06:40:40.890" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Replacing the nozzle depends on many things,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the nozzle material (copper/brass, steel, hardened steel, Olsson Ruby Nozzle),&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the type of filament you print,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;how frequently you use the 3D printer. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To replace a nozzle, there are probably a few reasons for doing so. A nozzle can wear out (&lt;em&gt;see: &lt;a href=&quot;/q/371/&quot;&gt;How to identify nozzle wear&lt;/a&gt;; not only from the friction  of standard filament, but especially when used with abrasive filament like glow-in-the-dark PLA, and glass or carbon fibre filled filament&lt;/em&gt;) causing the outer shape and the inner nozzle diameter to change size. This can result in lower quality prints or difficulty in getting the print to stick to the bed. Having a metal wire or drill bit of the diameter of the nozzle will tell you if the hole itself has worn out. Sometimes, a visual inspection may sometimes be enough for you to tell that it has worn out: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/X0gj5m.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;New (left) vs worn out (right) nozzle&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/X0gj5m.png&quot; alt=&quot;New (left) vs worn out (right) nozzle&quot; title=&quot;New (left) vs worn out (right) nozzle&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;(source: &lt;a href=&quot;https://filament2print.com/gb/blog/57_nozzles-guide-when-change-it.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;filament2print.com&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please note that an interesting video is posted by Stefan from CNC Kitchen on nozzle wear:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/uvlMeTnjriQ?start=0&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Nozzles can collect burned particles inside, partly clogging the nozzle, causing the extrusion to be non-ideal. A sign for this is when the filament is not leaving the nozzle straight when freely extruded at height, but curls up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Furthermore, when used frequently, nozzles can get coated with filament which is sometimes hard to remove. This sometimes causes freshly extruded filament to stick to the nozzle, certainly if it curls up like mentioned before.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that nozzles are very cheap with respect to the complete assembly and replacing them is a matter of 2 minutes work. So if you're unsure about how to improve the quality of printing after having tried fixing flow rate and nozzle to bed height, you could replace the nozzle, see e.g.:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/67Kll.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Differences in print quality of old (left) and new (right) nozzle&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/67Kll.png&quot; alt=&quot;Differences in print quality of old (left) and new (right) nozzle&quot; title=&quot;Differences in print quality of old (left) and new (right) nozzle&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;(source: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aR2Dg_9aU6Y&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;The 3D Print General&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on the quality of the nozzle and the filament, a nozzle replacement for one brand might be necessary much sooner than for another printer. E.g. my Ultimaker 3E has literally printed kilometers of PETG without the need to replace the nozzle (or &quot;core&quot; as it is called for this printer), while the brass nozzle of my first cheap, now dust collecting, Anet A8 printer has been replaced a few times.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-09-05T07:42:46.263" LastActivityDate="2019-09-05T07:42:46.263" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10965" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-09-04T12:19:37.040" Score="1" ViewCount="1717" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Printrbot LC with the following extruder gears:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/t9rwe.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/t9rwe.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Stepper on the right, filament toothed gear inside, same size of the small stepper gear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't have much more information besides the model of the motor (42BYGH4807), but the reduction ratio (NEMA stepper -&gt; toothed gear on the filament) is about 2:1, the filament is pushed at half the circumference speed of the stepper motor gear (small on the photo).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am using 3 mm filament with a 0.4 mm nozzle and I can print at 80 mm/s without particular issues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would like to switch to 1.75 mm filament and sometimes use 0.8 mm nozzle, meaning that I need the filament to be pushed faster:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;3 mm vs 1.75 mm means 3x faster&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;0.8 mm vs 0.4 mm nozzle it's another 4x speed&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;using Klipper firmware I may likely set a higher linear print speed, so there could be another 1.2x speed factor for the filament.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I'm not sure how far I am right now from my current maximum extrusion speed. Maybe I'm already at near the max, maybe I still have a 2-3x safety margin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since I will likely need to change the extruder gears to push the filament 15x faster I wonder how to calculate the optimal gear ratio given an expected maximum linear printing speed, filament diameter and nozzle diameter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since stepper motors get less and less torque at increasing stepping rate, maybe the answer depends also on filament viscosity and microstepping settings?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2338" LastEditorUserId="2338" LastEditDate="2019-09-04T12:56:51.533" LastActivityDate="2021-06-29T15:56:35.267" Title="How to calculate the extruder gear ratio given a desired max printing speed filament diameter and nozzle diameter?" Tags="|extrusion|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10966" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="371" CreationDate="2019-09-04T12:23:16.117" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to &lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/uvlMeTnjriQ?start=0&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt; the inner diameter doesn't change much, but, as said by @0scar, the nozzle shortens and at the end you get to the inner cavity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check the length and you are done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2338" LastActivityDate="2019-09-04T12:23:16.117" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10967" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11021" CreationDate="2019-09-04T14:35:14.170" Score="4" ViewCount="668" Body="&lt;p&gt;In this &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.instructables.com/id/3D-Printer-Heated-Bed-1/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;instructable&lt;/a&gt;, a user creates a heated bed from a wooden plank, some nails, insulated copper wire, and a DC switch. He does place an aluminum bed on top of it, but for our heated chamber, we won't use any aluminum on top of these wires. We aren't trying to heat an aluminum bed, but an entire chamber.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3fjt1.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3fjt1.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;Assume I place a wire loom like this underneath my 3D printer.  (I might place some aluminum foil between the wood and the copper wire, to reflect heat upwards more? Is that safe?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then assume I have a cardboard box that has aluminum foil lining the walls on its inside. Assume the total size of my printer is 500mm x 500mm x 500mm. When I place the cardboard box over my printer, do you think it would take less than 1 hour for the top of the cardboard box to reach 60 degrees Celsius?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do you think there are any other hazards here I am not considering?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could I, theoretically, do this entirely with cardboard, and no wood?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could I, theoretically, line the inside of my cardboard box like this? Or might the cardboard ignite?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd like to use cardboard because it is both lightweight and insulative. I can remove it easier to check all areas of my printer, unlike an enclosure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10369" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:29:41.667" LastActivityDate="2019-09-17T12:08:12.350" Title="Creating a heated chamber from a very large heated bed" Tags="|heated-bed|heat-management|chamber|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10968" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10962" CreationDate="2019-09-04T17:42:07.783" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Based on the image and your report that the problem consistently appears at the same part of the print, this is clearly an (either absolute or net) underextrusion problem, but (mostly) localized to particular layers. I say absolute or net because it might be extruding too little total material, or extruding the right amount of material but losing some of it to unwanted extrusion (oozing/stringing) in the wrong places. Either of these could be related to geometry of the layers involved.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One factor here is probably coasting, which you mentioned in a comment you have enabled. The small amount of coasting probably means it's not a big factor, but coasting always underextrudes. That's fundamentally how it works. You should not need coasting unless you've disabled retraction for some reason; it's a hack that's a poor substitute for part of what &lt;a href=&quot;http://marlinfw.org/docs/features/lin_advance.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;linear advance&lt;/a&gt; does on printers that support it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You also mentioned a 60 mm/s print speed setting. At 0.2 mm layer height and 0.4 mm nozzle diameter, that's 4.8 mm³/s volumetric extrusion rate, which is roughly the limit of what you can expect to achieve with your printer's hotend. If you try to print faster than the hotend can keep up with, the material won't melt sufficiently fast to pass through the nozzle orifice. This will naturally slow it down allowing further melting to take place, but in the mean time the extruder gear will either grind into the filament or (much less likely, I think) the motor will skip steps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that print speed settings control &lt;strong&gt;maximum speed&lt;/strong&gt;, which is why you won't necessarily hit problems from having them too high right away, but only at particular layers. In prints with small details, especially with sharp corners, the majority of the printer's time is spent accelerating and decelerating between speeds far lower than the nominal/max print speed, and if you only reach an excessive max speed momentarily now and then, it might not continue for long enough for the material to cool down, in which case everything just works out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Part of why I mention this is that, if you're trying to keep print time under control, setting a higher max speed might not even help you. Usually acceleration/jerk is the limiting factor to how fast you can print. Max print speed should be set according to the extrusion rate the hotend/extruder can keep up with, and print acceleration/jerk should be set according to the dynamical properties of the printer's axes. If you increase them too much you might get rough surfaces, ringing, or even skipped steps/layer shifts, but you can go pretty high. 3000 mm²/s is probably the absolute max I'd try on an Ender 3. I did this and had some success, but some failures; I don't recall what jerk was and it might have been a factor too. The Y axis in particular can't handle acceleration as well as the X axis can, due to having to move the whole bed, not just the hotend assembly. Somewhere between 500 and 2000 is probably reasonable, but I'd experiment a good deal before trying it on a long-running print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One additional method to increase speed &lt;em&gt;might&lt;/em&gt; be reducing line widths to less than the nozzle width. This proportionally decreases the volumetric extrusion rate the hotend has to keep up with. But I'm not sure how well line widths less than nozzle width work for outer walls. This may adversely affect part strength too, which might not be a problem for your particular usage case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2019-09-04T17:42:07.783" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10969" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10955" CreationDate="2019-09-04T19:32:21.953" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It seems I misread your question.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;3D Printed Mold&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You were asking about (or the question now states) use of a mold release compound to prevent a molded part from sticking to a 3d print mold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes.  It is always beneficial for the molded part to not stick to the mold.  Easy separation and part removal is important for the life of the mold and for the surface finish of the part.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are two molding situations that seem important.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Flexible Mold or Object&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the first, either the part of the mold is elastic, so the actual sliding of one surface on the other isn't important.  Here, a mold release agent would help by preventing the cast object from binding to the mold material.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Stiff Mold and Object&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The second case is where both the mold and the object are stiff, and the object must slide out of the mold.  Here the layer lines should be considered, since there may, locally, be reverse draft angles where the larger part can not slip past an obstructing filament line.  Using a process that doesn't leave filament lines, or using the thinnest possible filament layers, or smoothing the mold internal surfaces, or possibly filling the spaces between the ridges with another material may eliminate the problem.  A &quot;mold release agent&quot; would still be used to reduce the attachment of the object to the mold, although one may be able to use ample release agent both to fill the groves in the mold and prevent adhesion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2082" LastActivityDate="2019-09-04T19:32:21.953" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10970" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10971" CreationDate="2019-09-04T21:13:12.973" Score="4" ViewCount="551" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking to crimp wires to the AUX-1 and EXP pins of my MKS base. For sanity reasons, i cant directly use Dupont jumpers, they keep coming out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FzS65.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FzS65.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;MKS Base board&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;BIQU MKS-Base V1.6 Plate Controller Board for 3D Printer Ramps 1.4&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the above product image, the type of housing is the &quot;black&quot; colored headers on the board, around the top left corner of the board. Each header has ~10 male pins inside of it &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most of the other pins are of JST-XH type, for anyone else wondering. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10369" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-09-05T05:25:01.367" LastActivityDate="2019-09-12T07:13:15.237" Title="What is the MKS Base AUX header connector type?" Tags="|wiring|wire-type|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10971" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10970" CreationDate="2019-09-04T21:33:44.420" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;You need a 2.54&amp;nbsp;mm pitch (similar pitch to Dupont) female IDC (insulation displacement connectors on a ribbon cable) connector of 2x5P (pins) for the header connectors that have a notch. (for comparison, note that e.g. RAMPS 1.4 has 2x5p dupont headers on the shield for the AUX headers, not the notch type headers)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JThTDm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Flat ribbon cable connector&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JThTDm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Flat ribbon connector&quot; title=&quot;Flat ribbon cable connector&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These connectors are usually crimped onto flat ribbon cables and used to connect the display to the board. These connectors have a rectangular notch to fit the gap in the housing to correctly position the cable (which the 2x5P Dupont don't have). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8eyfl.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Flat ribbon cable, 10P (2x5P)&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8eyfl.png&quot; alt=&quot;Flat ribbon cable, 10P (2x5P)&quot; title=&quot;Flat ribbon cable, 10P (2x5P)&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For reference/difference, an image of the Dupont 2x4P and 2x5P is shown below, highlighting both sides (&quot;up&quot; on the left, &quot;down&quot; on the right):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/B453em.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Dupont 2x4P and 2x5P&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/B453em.png&quot; alt=&quot;Dupont 2x4P and 2x5P&quot; title=&quot;Dupont 2x4P and 2x5P&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2019-09-12T07:13:15.237" LastActivityDate="2019-09-12T07:13:15.237" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10972" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-09-05T11:55:50.727" Score="1" ViewCount="135" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am a fresh graduate student in 3D metal printing. My undergraduate major is mechanical engineering. Later research will focus on the process of metal 3D printing. I hope that you can recommend some excellent 3D metal printing books for learning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17488" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2019-09-18T09:35:05.553" LastActivityDate="2019-10-20T14:02:00.340" Title="Can you recommend professional 3D metal printing books?" Tags="|metal-printing|literature|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10973" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10978" CreationDate="2019-09-05T22:47:47.083" Score="3" ViewCount="291" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to print a vase that has a width/length/height footprint of 100x100x200 mm, and the surface finish is of particular interest to me. Ideally, I would like to do a minimum of sanding/XTC-3D coating after printing, if any.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What would be the best material to work with?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17491" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2019-09-06T12:44:53.383" LastActivityDate="2019-09-12T08:09:43.300" Title="Smooth finish on large parts" Tags="|surface|smoothing|large-format|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10974" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-09-06T05:17:45.427" Score="3" ViewCount="1380" Body="&lt;p&gt;For the geometry I am making, I want to extrude each face individually along its normal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a standard procedure in 3D modeling software like Blender; see Example 3 &lt;a href=&quot;https://blender.stackexchange.com/questions/7365/extrude-faces-along-local-normals&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this possible in OpenSCAD?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17493" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2020-07-13T11:21:18.350" LastActivityDate="2020-07-13T11:21:18.350" Title="Is it possible extrude faces along normals individually in OpenSCAD?" Tags="|3d-models|openscad|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10975" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10974" CreationDate="2019-09-06T06:43:35.897" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Extruding faces is only possible on 2D polygons. From a 3D object you cannot capture the face and extrude it. To extrude &quot;faces&quot; you would need to define the shape of the face and extend it in the third dimension of your choice. This way a 3D shape is created that could be concatenated (joined using e.g. &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikibooks.org/wiki/OpenSCAD_User_Manual/CSG_Modelling#union&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;code&gt;union&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/a&gt;) to the original shape. For the extrusion, the function &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikibooks.org/wiki/OpenSCAD_User_Manual/2D_to_3D_Extrusion#Linear_Extrude&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;code&gt;linear_extrude&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/a&gt; is available:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;linear_extrude(height = fanwidth, center = true, convexity = 10, twist = -fanrot, slices = 20, scale = 1.0, $fn = 16) {...}&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="11242" LastEditDate="2019-09-06T13:12:09.190" LastActivityDate="2019-09-06T13:12:09.190" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10976" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10974" CreationDate="2019-09-06T11:53:44.073" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Built-in to the language and its CSG model, no - processing the CSG tree is a completely separate phase following execution of the functional language, and there is no way to &quot;read back&quot; anything from the conversion of the model into faces in order to operate on the faces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, you can do this if you're willing to do some heavy lifting yourself, or look for library code from someone else who's already done it. What it would involve is working out a description form of your own in terms of nested lists representing the model, with a module for converting the list to an OpenSCAD CSG tree. You can then write functions to manipulate this description in arbitrary ways, essentially reinventing the CSG phase of OpenSCAD within its own language. Some lesser versions of this have definitely been done in the past for things like implementing &quot;loft&quot; type functionality in OpenSCAD.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2019-09-06T11:53:44.073" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10977" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10974" CreationDate="2019-09-06T12:19:43.177" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;For extruding a single face, as long as you can know the plane the face is in, you can &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikibooks.org/wiki/OpenSCAD_User_Manual/3D_to_2D_Projection&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;code&gt;projection&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/a&gt; it to a 2D shape then &lt;code&gt;linear_extrude&lt;/code&gt; that. In general you need the &lt;code&gt;cut=true&lt;/code&gt; variant of &lt;code&gt;projection&lt;/code&gt;, and you need to translate/rotate the object to be projected such that the face is in the XY plane (this is the &quot;as long as you can know&quot;) part. Unfortunately this is subject to numerical instability, so you probably have to translate it by an extra 0.001 or so to &lt;em&gt;cross&lt;/em&gt; the XY plane, in which case you'll end up with an approximation of the face rather than an exact version of it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Strictly speaking OpenSCAD doesn't have exact things anyway, except in the case of faces sharing points in a &lt;code&gt;polyhedron&lt;/code&gt;, so this limitation probably doesn't make the situation any worse than it already is in OpenSCAD).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you have the projection, you can &lt;code&gt;linear_extrude&lt;/code&gt; it in any direction you want, manipulate the result (e.g. skew with a transformation matrix), and rotate and translate it back onto the face. It should be possible to wrap up this whole operation into a &lt;code&gt;module&lt;/code&gt; that operates on its child[ren].&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another approach would be capturing a thin slice around the face manually via &lt;code&gt;intersection&lt;/code&gt;, then performing a &lt;code&gt;hull&lt;/code&gt; with a translate of itself, but this will only work if it's convex (otherwise &lt;code&gt;hull&lt;/code&gt; will fill in the convex hull of the 2D face shape too).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2019-09-06T12:19:43.177" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10978" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10973" CreationDate="2019-09-06T12:42:32.113" Score="4" Body="&lt;h2&gt;From the printer...&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Non-post-processed surface smoothness of a print is mainly a function of the Layer height during print: it is smoother if one reduces the height of the steps taken between the layers. A very good &lt;strong&gt;FDM&lt;/strong&gt; machine can achieve down to 0.05 mm layer height, but 0.1 mm is what most hobbyist machines can achieve if well dialed in. &lt;strong&gt;SLA&lt;/strong&gt; printers cure resin in layers down to 25 micron reliably and some can get down to 12.5 micron - a quarter of the best achievable FDM.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Reducing the layer height in FDM comes at the cost of mainly three factors:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Print time increases roughly antiproportional to the layer height. 0.1 mm is about double the print time of 0.2 mm and so on.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The prints tensile strength gets reduced by increasing the number of layers increases, creating additional possible weakpoints.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The thinner the layer, the more susceptible the print is to errors like clogged nozzles or variations of the filament thickness.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;SLA printers are not affected by the print strength loss and the errors from clogged nozzles and can print entirely clear material without air inclusions. They are affected by the print time increase though. Usually, SLA prints come out of the vat covered in residual resin and curing them in the proper post-processing method results in this resin smoothing over the surface perfectly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Simple Postprocessing...&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many prints can easily be post-processed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Sanding&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PLA and ABS can be easily sanded down to somewhat smooth, but you'll need to spend time and muscle grease or go electric. A sander with 300+ grit can help a lot. If you have a rotational body, you could sand the vase on a lathe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Putty&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A plastic putty could be smeared over the stepped surface to smooth it and then sanded smooth. I personally like Valejo plastic putty, as it doesn't shrink, but Tamya putty also is a good alternative, bonding strong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Primer-Filler&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Independent of the base material, using a spray coating can easily fill in the notches and crannies left behind during printing. Printing in 0.15 mm and giving it a short spray coat of primer-filler twice, sanding over rough spots between did a good job of smoothing prints for me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.3ders.org/articles/20130226-smooth-surfaces-of-abs-3d-printed-parts-with-acetone-vapor.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Vapor Smoothing&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you chose ABS, you could use Acetone vapor to smooth over the surface of a print in almost an instant. This can achieve Super smooth results with tall layer heights, as you practically melt the plastic over, but it comes at the loss of small surface details.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Exposure time is the limiting factor here: the longer the exposure to the acetone vapor, the more the surface is smoothed and the less details remain. Think of exposure time like running the &lt;code&gt;smooth&lt;/code&gt; filter in blender once or twice each second.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/c3Fpt.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/c3Fpt.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Left to right: Smoothed 0.35 mm print, 0.1 mm print unsmoothed, 0.35 mm print unsmoothed&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Similarly, &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Polylactic_acid#Organic_Solvents_for_PLA&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;ethylacetate or propylene carbonate could be used for PLA prints&lt;/a&gt;, though timing might differ from the well established &amp;quot;a couple of seconds&amp;quot; for acetone vapor. Note that these two chemicals are much more expensive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Costs&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Checking prices, I was quoted about 90 €/l for (chemical grade) Ethyl Acetate and 130 €/l for (chemical grade) Propylene Carbonate via a laboratory supply. Useable Acetone (not chemical grade) comes about 3.70 €/l in home depot. For comparison: chemical-grade Acetone comes with a price tag of about 50 €/l.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Considering that ABS filaments and PLA filaments typically price similarily,  ABS+Acetone Vapor is the least costly chemical Vapor smoothing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:29:41.667" LastActivityDate="2019-09-12T08:09:43.300" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10979" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10695" CreationDate="2019-09-06T20:26:53.003" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5bOal.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5bOal.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The part causing the hot point failure was the connector for the heater and sensor. The connector showed no sign of burns on the heater pins, but the square tubes (see attached image) accommodating pins from the other connector had started to straighten out toward its original sheet metal state due to heating from current. Bending the tubes back in place allowed the connector to work temporarily and confirmed the failure cause. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Details: After getting a 12 V 30 W heater, it also didn’t work. The hot point had stopped working because a wire brush had shorted across the heater terminals. Because a spare hot point worked, the failure wasn’t in the circuitry. The spare was a 12 V 30 W heater (from resistance measurements), while the heater on the failing hot point was a 12 V 40 W heater (from resistance measurements). This made me suspect that the heater resistance had shifted, and the circuitry shut off the heater. However, apparently both 12 V 30 W and 12 V 40 W heaters work on RepRap x400 V3. The brief short caused the bent sheet metal of the connector to start straightening back out of the bend. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15075" LastActivityDate="2019-09-06T20:26:53.003" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10980" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-09-06T21:52:06.950" Score="5" ViewCount="12510" Body="&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Plastic: Same Matterhacker PLA (filament I use every day)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Printer: Anycubic i3 Mega (the one I use every day)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Slicer: Ultimaker Cura 4.2.1&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know what's causing it, I haven't changed any slicer settings to my knowledge, I haven't changed anything on the printers end, and I'm using the same filament I've always used. But for some reason, the first layer is simply not sticking. At first I noticed when doing a print the nozzle seemed a little higher than normal for the first layer, but then it started having problems where 0&amp;nbsp;% of the filament would stick to the bed and it would all just come off and turn into a mess. I've checked and checked, but I see no reason the printer would just start doing this now all the sudden when it's worked perfectly for a year now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: Something I've noticed since posting this is that older sliced models seem to print just fine, which means there's something about the newser slicer settings that's causing it. I don't know what I would have changed though and/or how to restore to my original settings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14032" LastEditorUserId="14032" LastEditDate="2019-09-12T05:10:04.283" LastActivityDate="2020-03-02T17:18:15.870" Title="Reasons for a PLA print not sticking to bed all the sudden?" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|pla|heated-bed|troubleshooting|anycubic-i3-mega|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="14" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10981" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10984" CreationDate="2019-09-06T22:16:29.717" Score="2" ViewCount="807" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yesterday during a print, the printer just stopped working and all motors and fans stopped. My printer is a Graber i3.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just before that I saw a flare coming from somewhere in the extruder or from the power supply, I couldn’t actually see.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Checked the voltage coming into the RAMPS and it was 0&amp;nbsp;V, checked voltage coming from the power supply, also 0&amp;nbsp;V. Checked the voltage coming into the power supply and it was 217&amp;nbsp;V... that’s okay, the power supply is switched to 220&amp;nbsp;V.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Today I tried further troubleshooting, by connecting the power supply to 127&amp;nbsp;V and having it switched to that voltage, before that I disconnected the RAMPS cable in case it was shorted. The result was the power supply did not work, the voltage coming from it was 0&amp;nbsp;V.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Got in contact with the manufacturer since the printer is brand new and he is sending me a new power supply, but I do want to try to find the root cause of the problem, so I started looking for shorts in the RAMPS, hotbed is okay, no continuity. Neither of the other connections have shorts, until I got to the hot end heating cartridge, in this convection I found 5&amp;nbsp;&amp;Omega; resistance between phases. This was at first no surprise because it makes sense since it’s a heating element, but wanted to make sure, is it okay to have this resistance in the cartridge?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do you guys have any other suggestion for troubleshooting or possible root causes for this issue?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;UPDATE 02/OCT/2019:&#xA;I decided to open the power supply, so maybe I could fix it and have it as a back up. First thing I see once opened, the fuse was blown! So I replaced it, since it is soldered and it is a 8A 250V 3x10mm, which happens to be hard to find... took quite a while. Once the repair was done, plugged it in and boom, another firework happened, this time blowing a resistor and not the fuse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Conclusion&lt;/strong&gt;: &lt;em&gt;it wasn’t the fuse&lt;/em&gt;, another thing caused the first and second shortening.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17349" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-10-02T04:46:24.433" LastActivityDate="2019-10-02T04:46:24.433" Title="Power supply not working" Tags="|troubleshooting|hotend|power-supply|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10982" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8548" CreationDate="2019-09-07T05:47:56.787" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here is my suggestion for a cheap, well and temperature accurate drying manner of a filament. I've done it several times for PETG that is actually a very moisture absorbing filament and pops it up when using by ruining the job. Why not using your own printer's heat bed to dry the filament (PETG about 6 hours in 65 degrees of Celsius)? I can guarantee that it works:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uvtPo.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uvtPo.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;PETGs Drying On a Heatbed&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17499" LastActivityDate="2019-09-07T05:47:56.787" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10983" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10980" CreationDate="2019-09-07T09:43:16.943" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are 3 general factors about print adhesion you always have to keep in mind:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Have a sufficient surface for the print to stick. A pyramid printed on the tip can't print properly.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check the leveling of your bed occasionally and relevel the bed. By removing prints, one can easily unlevel it over time without noticing it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Clean your print bed from fingerprints and grease every so often. Fats are good separators between the print and the bed. Getting them off with Isopropyl alcohol or other solvents can restore print surfaces in an instant.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this specific case, there are some hints that make the general things less of an issue though: Old sliced items print fine, newer not. This hints that you changed something in the print settings. Among the settings that are good for adhesion, check your old G-code for the following three:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bed temperature. I use 60&amp;nbsp;°C bed temperature for PLA and have good results on bed adhesion. Others print with 50&amp;nbsp;°C. However, going too low can make the plastic not stick well anymore.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Extrusion temperature. When the plastic extrudes, it has to be molten enough to push out enough and cold enough to solidify within moments and stick to the surface of the bed. If it is too hot, it would be dragged along, if it's too cold it doesn't get to stick either. I use 190-200&amp;nbsp;°C for PLA.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The &lt;code&gt;first layer height&lt;/code&gt; might be different. I usually use 0.2&amp;nbsp;mm for this setting, no matter what the actual layer height is, and get good adhesion and not too much trouble with tiny unevenness.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The reason might be a mechanical issue, in that the &lt;a href=&quot;https://drucktipps3d.de/wp-content/uploads/2017/11/anycubic_i3_mega_endstop-1024x768.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Z-endstops&lt;/a&gt; (in an Anycubic i3, there are two, hidden in the frame sides) might have bent, moved or misaligned over time. Check its positioning. If the mount is broken, there are &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/make:441224&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;replacement part designs&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-03-02T17:18:15.870" LastActivityDate="2020-03-02T17:18:15.870" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10984" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10981" CreationDate="2019-09-07T10:02:49.347" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would expect the root cause to simply be the power supply itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;5&amp;nbsp;Ω is a reasonable resistance for a &lt;a href=&quot;https://wiki.e3d-online.com/E3D-v6_Assembly#Heater_Cartridge&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;12&amp;nbsp;V / 30 W heater&lt;/a&gt;. It seems strange that you are not seeing continuity in the heated bed as this should also have a low resistance (since it's a heater as well). This might be worth investigating further, but I think it's more likely the power supply itself is the cause (and you simply made a measurement error).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2019-09-07T10:42:12.933" LastActivityDate="2019-09-07T10:42:12.933" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10986" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10988" CreationDate="2019-09-08T09:17:05.357" Score="6" ViewCount="9756" Body="&lt;p&gt;We all know, that the best layer hight is, when you have multiples of full steps. If it is not, sometimes steps get skipped and end up bad layer-to-layer adhesion when one height step missed a tiny bit and then the next catches up, creating an extra-thick layer. For example, this was printed somewhat deliberately, and here, the extra spaced layers are perfect for delaminating the print with just a fingernail:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QwkYK.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QwkYK.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Delaminating Print&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Ender 3 I have uses the following Z-Rod:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Diameter 8 mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;4 flutes&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;ca 13 Threads per inch&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;That is &lt;a href=&quot;https://mdmetric.com/tech/tict.htm&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;according to the table&lt;/a&gt;, a 2 mm pitch for &lt;em&gt;one&lt;/em&gt; thread.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;As a result, it's an 8 mm pitch for each of the 4 threads.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The firmware (Marlin) I use claims in &lt;code&gt;configuration.h&lt;/code&gt; that the NEMA17 motor would be using 400 Steps per mm in Z. &lt;code&gt;configuration_adv.h&lt;/code&gt; tells that the microsteps on the Z-axis motor are 16.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the printer's menu, Babystepping is in increments of 0.049 mm (though some rounding error seems to be there: 5 Babysteps are 0.250 mm).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastActivityDate="2019-09-11T12:40:00.143" Title="How to calculate the proper layer height multiples?" Tags="|creality-ender-3|z-axis|knowledgebase|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10987" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7131" CreationDate="2019-09-08T15:56:02.897" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you print for example a thin wall cylinder vertically you cannot turn the refinement high enough to not see the flats on the surface.  My triangle counts are 524 for Low, 828 for Medium, 2206 for High, and if you select custom and pull the surface deviation slider all the way to the left you get 6572 triangles.  The Surface Deviation shows 0.004406 mm which you would think would be fine enough.  (This is for a 12 inch diameter cylinder with a 4 inch height and a wall thickness of 2.4 mm.  The numbers vary depending on dimensions.) However you can see this level of deviation in the surface of common FDM type 3D prints.  For those who are Metric impaired this is a deviation of 0.00017 inches or about 2 ten thousandths.  The situation I present is the best case for an FDM type 3D printer and for just about anything else this level of refinement would be overkill.  This is partially some arbitrary limitation in Fusion 360 but it is more a characteristic of using STL files.  For my purposes being able to specify a surface deviation two or three times more precise would probably eliminate the visible artifacts.  Increasing the refinement to the maximum possible will slow Fusion 360 when it computes the STL file and it will slow the slicer down as well but other than this there is no downside to using maximum refinement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17510" LastActivityDate="2019-09-08T15:56:02.897" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10988" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10986" CreationDate="2019-09-08T16:55:09.807" Score="8" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;that the NEMA17 motor would be using 400 Steps per mm in Z. &lt;code&gt;configuration_adv.h&lt;/code&gt; tells that the microsteps on the Z-axis motor are 16.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Easy. There are 400 microsteps in a millimeter, and 16 microsteps in a full step. So, there are 400/16=25 full steps in a millimeter. So a full step is 1/25&lt;sup&gt;th&lt;/sup&gt; of a millimeter, or 0.04&amp;nbsp;mm. Your layer height should be a multiple of this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As your leadscrew has a lead of 8&amp;nbsp;mm (i.e., a full rotation will move the Z-axis by 8&amp;nbsp;mm), a full step is either 8/200=0.04&amp;nbsp;mm (for a 1.8 degree stepper) or 8/400=0.02&amp;nbsp;mm (for a 0.9 degree stepper). So, apparently, you have a 1.8 degree stepper (and this is the most common type of stepper).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-09-09T06:20:30.273" LastActivityDate="2019-09-09T06:20:30.273" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10989" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10980" CreationDate="2019-09-08T21:27:53.720" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;This seems like a long-shot, but I've noticed at this time of year many 3D prints fail.  We noticed 4 printers all went dead and had massive non-stick issues last year about this time.  Turns out it was mostly around changes in temperature and humidity - the outside temperature changed inside AC settings/wind-flow, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, you might think through some of the meta-causes of where the printer is, and if temp/air/humidity might be just enough chaos to not make the material stick.  Right in September, I start putting a light layer of glue down on the glass bed under each print or increasing the use of rafts...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10508" LastActivityDate="2019-09-08T21:27:53.720" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10991" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-09-09T18:18:48.333" Score="6" ViewCount="1575" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/q/10986/11157&quot;&gt;This question&lt;/a&gt; asks about computing the fundamental layer height unit for full Z-motor steps, on the basis of a theory that layer thickness can be inconsistent if the height is at different micro-stepping positions on different layers. The specific printer mentioned in the question is an Ender 3, which I also have, and while I've wondered in the past &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WIkT8asT90A&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;based on this video&lt;/a&gt; whether using whole-step layer heights helps, I haven't seen conclusive evidence that it really does.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to the research in &lt;a href=&quot;https://hackaday.com/2016/08/29/how-accurate-is-microstepping-really/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;How Accurate Is Microstepping Really?&lt;/a&gt;, the A4988 stepper drivers (which this printer uses) have near-linear microstepping response, at least under the test conditions, which suggests there's little or no benefit to using whole-step layer heights.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has anyone done experiments to determine/demonstrate whether use of layer heights that aren't whole steps actually leads to extrusion/layer adhesion problems or other structural or cosmetic issues?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did a quick test with a 20 mm cube and 0.2 mm layers (5 full steps, left) and 0.1975 mm layers (1 microstep short of 5 full steps, right) and there is no readily apparent difference:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8QjMM.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;test prints&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And repeated with single walls:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vVqux.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;test prints&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastEditorUserId="11157" LastEditDate="2019-09-10T11:56:11.630" LastActivityDate="2019-09-10T11:56:11.630" Title="Does matching whole Z-motor steps for layer height actually matter on Ender 3?" Tags="|creality-ender-3|z-axis|layer-height|microstepping|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10992" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10962" CreationDate="2019-09-09T19:22:21.817" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's a known issue across Creality printers with the PTFE tube (bowden) slipping in the coupler on the hotend side, allowing molten material to push back around/up inside it rather than making it out the nozzle. I haven't experienced any such problem myself, even after applying some fairly serious abuse to that part of my Ender 3, but &lt;a href=&quot;https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=x35aWmnZ_A0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this video&lt;/a&gt; from CHEP claims it was the source of his problems and explains the issue well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I believe my Ender 3 came with an extra replacement for this coupler; if yours did, and this seems to be the problem, you can see if the second one they supplied is better. Otherwise it's an easy component to source third-party replacements for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2019-09-09T19:22:21.817" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10993" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10994" CreationDate="2019-09-09T19:22:39.693" Score="3" ViewCount="331" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CsSEw.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CsSEw.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hotend drops from 205&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C to 175&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C, and then the printer errors MINTEMP. How can I fix this? Fan is not starting yet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#define  DEFAULT_Kp 28.65&#xA;#define  DEFAULT_Ki 2.80&#xA;#define  DEFAULT_Kd 73.33&#xA;&#xA;#define HEATER_0_MINTEMP 5&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;MINTEMP is 5&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C? It's impossible it's getting that cold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17517" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-09-10T06:58:20.223" LastActivityDate="2019-09-10T08:59:46.257" Title="Hotend drops to 175 ºC once extrusion starts (MINTEMP error reported)" Tags="|marlin|prusa-i3|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10994" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10993" CreationDate="2019-09-10T08:59:46.257" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sudden drops in temperature curves like in your picture are usually missing readings on the thermosensor:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Disconnecting the sensor from the board registers as min-temp of the sensor while shorting out as max-temp, so it triggers the mintemp/maxtemp security protocol: shutdown.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One could disable mintemp/maxtemp protection, but that wouldn't solve the issue. The issue is usually the wiring of the sensor. To find the fault, put temperature on the sensor but keep the motors disabled. Watch the read temperature. Move the printhead manually and slowly. If it suddenly drops and throws the error, you might have a faulty lead close to the printhead. If not, you need to open the electronics box to check if the connection to the board is ok. In the worst case, you might need to exchange the whole temperature sensor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastActivityDate="2019-09-10T08:59:46.257" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10995" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7683" CreationDate="2019-09-10T10:36:47.810" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had an identical problem, flashforge provided me with a setup that helped (mostly going much slower) but I still needed high temperature and had a lot of failures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Eventually I dismantled the extruder hot end and found that there is a tiny metal ferrule that secures the plastic tube the filament feeds through to get to the hot end.  This had failed and been drawn into the tube.&#xA;The high temperatures and slow speeds were basically just softening the PLA enough to squeeze past the blockage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I cut the piece of metal out of the side of the plastic tube and reassembled without it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The printer now works fine at high speeds and with any filament :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I’ve not yet seen adverse any effect from removing this ferrule, I guess the extruder may fail eventually at which point at least I know I just need a new extruder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are four plastic clips you need to push in with a screwdriver if you want to try this, I was able to open it up without causing any damage as the clips are quite strong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17522" LastActivityDate="2019-09-10T10:36:47.810" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10997" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10986" CreationDate="2019-09-11T12:40:00.143" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I see you've already accepted an answer, but based on your comments I think you have some misunderstandings of the topic which are worth clarifying as part of answering this question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;0.2125 layer height (+1/4 microstep) and doing all the movements in absolute movements instead of relative forced the result, as the target heights were as a result at 0.2125 mm (for the stepper that's effectively a 0.2 mm), 0.425 (0.4), 0.675 (for the stepper that's, depending on rounding or truncting, 0.6 or 0.7), 0.9 (here they are both 0.9) and so on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It sounds like your understanding is that the stepper driver is &quot;rounding&quot;/&quot;truncating&quot; to Z positions that are multiples of 0.1 mm. Perhaps that's based on the LCD status display of the Ender 3's firmware, which is based on Marlin 1.0 or something around that version, and shows current coordinates rounded or truncated (I forget which) to one decimal place. This does not have anything to do with the positioning limitations of the actual machine; it's just bad user interface design.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The actual firmware position is translated from the floating point value in the gcode to the nearest step/microstep that the stepper driver can represent. With full steps being 0.04 mm, microsteps are 0.0025 mm (1/16 of a step). All of these positions are &quot;exact&quot; in a logical sense, but of course subject to physical limits of the mechanical parts and accuracy of microstepping. On the topic of microstepping accuracy, you should read &lt;a href=&quot;https://hackaday.com/2016/08/29/how-accurate-is-microstepping-really/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;How Accurate Is Microstepping Really?&lt;/a&gt; Most if not all models of the Ender 3 have A4988 stepper drivers, one of the chips reviewed in that article. But the important part is that there's no rounding/truncation to whole steps taking place. Rather, the stepper driver is &lt;em&gt;trying&lt;/em&gt; to position the motor in between whole steps by balancing the magnetic fields pulling it in each direction, with the goal of producing a linear interpolation between the two adjacent full steps. How well it does this is a matter of the quality of the stepper drivers and the load on the motor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Back to your test, your layer height of 0.2125 mm is not one step plus 1/4 microstep. It's 5 steps (5 * 0.04 mm) plus 0.0125 mm which is 5 microsteps. This is probably a decent test - 5 is 1 mod 16, so you'll end up with a period-16 cycle of microstep positions, at 5, 10, 15, 4, 9, 14, 3, 8, 13, 2, 7, 12, 1, 6, and 11 microsteps mod the whole step. This is pretty close to a period of 3, so you might expect to see some irregularity from poor microstepping accuracy that looks periodic every 3 layers, or you might see it repeating only every 16 layers (every 3.4 mm). But regardless I would not expect delamination problems from this. I think there's another serious extrusion problem behind the photo in your question, and you should probably open a new question about what it might be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2019-09-11T12:40:00.143" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10998" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11012" CreationDate="2019-09-11T17:41:31.980" Score="4" ViewCount="5672" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is the difference between an &lt;a href=&quot;https://e3d-online.com/v6-all-metal-hotend&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;original E3D V6&lt;/a&gt; rather than a clone?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know an original would have its own advantages, since there is a huge price difference between the two. Will there be a huge difference in the output? By considering the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Print quality&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Printing Speed&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Maintenance&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Life Span&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If anyone has used both, please share your experience.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17500" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:29:41.667" LastActivityDate="2019-09-30T10:16:13.900" Title="E3D V6 Original vs Clone" Tags="|print-quality|extruder|e3d-v6|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10999" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11017" CreationDate="2019-09-12T06:20:21.207" Score="0" ViewCount="2256" Body="&lt;p&gt;Recently my prints come out very messy. I tightened everything up and checked the extrusion multiplier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have an Ender 3 Pro which I use together with Cura 4.2.1 (and Octoprint). I print in PLA at 190°C. The print bed is set to 70°C. The Bed temperature is lower though, since I use a glas bed on top of the heated bed. I use a print cooling fan at 100%. The layer height is set to 0.2 mm, the line width 0.4mm from the 0.4mm nozzle. My retraction is 5mm at 45mm/s.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone have any idea what the reason could be?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XkrHi.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XkrHi.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18536" LastEditorUserId="18536" LastEditDate="2019-09-12T17:04:49.670" LastActivityDate="2020-03-01T02:11:23.013" Title="Very messy prints with lots of fuzz on edges" Tags="|creality-ender-3|print-failure|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11000" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8673" CreationDate="2019-09-12T07:45:37.823" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;With the picture shown, the LOM printer could be almost controlled entirely with a standard printer's hardware and almost no changes to the firmware:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Z controls stay the same, they control 7&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;X &amp;amp; Y will be used for the laser mirror 4 needs to be controlled by 2 motors to follow 2D Contours. I would not use a swiveling one but a steady laser that targets a 90° mirror mounted so it moves with one of the axis that reflects it to the second 90° mirror that aims it down on the workpiece and is mounted on the second axis. This would be pretty much a Core-XY setup.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Turning the laser on and off can - as said - easily be done with the part cooling fan control&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The E0 signal could be used to turn the material feed on both sides, though I  would use only one motor. This stepper should for speed consistency be mounted springloaded and use a roller to transfer movement to the film coil 8, best on an area that is off-limits for the laser to cut in. As a result, I would let 1 spin on itself against some resistance like a spring-loaded bar keeping the film tightened, keeping electronic complexity to a minimum.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Powering the heater can be done via the heater out of the board.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;To actually &lt;em&gt;move&lt;/em&gt; the heater, I would use the E1 signal on a long axle, pulling the mounting for it from both sides.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This would create a simple order of operations:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;code&gt;T0&lt;/code&gt; # Choose the material Feed&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;code&gt;E100 F100&lt;/code&gt; # Pull 100 mm of new material via the roller 8 from 1&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do XY movements with cut &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;code&gt;T1&lt;/code&gt; to choose the heater movement&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;code&gt;E100 F100&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;code&gt;E-100 F100&lt;/code&gt; # Fuse the film with an E1 movement back and forth (or alternate between these two lines to rest the heater on either side, speeding up the process)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;code&gt;GOTO 1&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastActivityDate="2019-09-12T07:45:37.823" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11001" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11002" CreationDate="2019-09-12T08:48:42.980" Score="4" ViewCount="18034" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an Ender 3 Pro, recently added a BLTouch v3, flashed a bootloader, and I'm now attempting to configure TH3D U1.R2.15 firmware.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have only modified configuration.h, haven't touched any other file, and configured it using the inline comments as a guide.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Everything seems to work ok, apart from it doesn't do a grid/mesh level before the print. G29 has been added just after G28 in Cura in the Start gcode box.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I print something, this happens:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bed + hotend heats up.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;X/Y get homed.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Nozzle moves to the center.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;BLTouch slowly comes down to probe the bed twice to set the level based on that one single center point.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Primes the filament and begins the print...&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure what the correct sequence is but I would have thought it should probe 9 points in a grid as I have set &lt;code&gt;#define EZABL_POINTS 3&lt;/code&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Have I missed something in the config?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;configuration.h&lt;/strong&gt; (have omitted all other printer sections to allow stackexchange to accept the rest of the file)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;/**&#xA;* ************** How to use this firmware - READ THIS, yes actually read this. *********************************&#xA;*&#xA;* Uncomment means removing the 2 // in front of #define.&#xA;* &#xA;* FLASHING NOTES:&#xA;* ALL slicers (Simplify3D, Cura, Slic3r, etc) or anything else that connects to the COM port must be CLOSED for the firmware to be flash.&#xA;* If anything is connected to the COM port when flashing it will fail, typically &quot;access denied&quot; is listed in the error section of the Arduino IDE.&#xA;* You MUST use the Included Arduino IDE to flash the firmware if on Windows and if you are on a Mac or Linux follow the guide in our knowledgebase to setup your IDE to work with the firmware.&#xA;* &#xA;* EZABL SETUP NOTES: &#xA;* If you have EZABL uncomment the mount you are using with the printer. &#xA;* If you have a custom/unsupported mount uncomment #define CUSTOM_MOUNT and enter your offsets &#xA;* below in the CUSTOM MOUNT section. Refer to the EZABL guide to get your offsets.&#xA;* &#xA;* STEP 1:&#xA;* Select the correct board from the tools menu for the printer you are flashing.&#xA;* Read the printer title for the model you are flashing, it will show what board to select.&#xA;*&#xA;* STEP 2:&#xA;* Uncomment the printer you want to flash. The printers are sorted A-Z by brand name.&#xA;* If you are using the Creality Dual board with the Ender 3/Ender 5/CR-20 then read the specific section below in that printer section on how to do this.&#xA;*&#xA;* STEP 3: &#xA;* Select the COM port your printer is on from the Tools menu. If you do not see the COM port try&#xA;* downloading the latest drivers from the manufacturer or TH3D site on our knowledgebase.&#xA;* &#xA;* STEP 4:&#xA;* Verify you have the correct board selected, printer model uncommented, and if you are using EZOUT and/or EZABL&#xA;* the lines you need to use them are also uncommented.&#xA;*&#xA;* STEP 5:&#xA;* Once you have your settings verified click the arrow in the upper left to upload to the board.&#xA;*&#xA;* STEP 6:&#xA;* Reset your eeprom. You can send M502 then M500 to reset the EEPROM OR on the printer LCD go to &#xA;* Control &amp;gt; Reset EEPROM to clear out the EEPROM to defaults.&#xA;*&#xA;* BOOTLOADER FLASHING NOTES:&#xA;* For flashing your bootloader with an Uno make sure to select Arduino as ISP for the programmer&#xA;* &#xA;* There are other features in the TH3D Extras section so look there for V6 Hotend,&#xA;* Bootscreen settings, Titan Extruder and more. You only need to edit this file.&#xA;* &#xA;* ERROR NOTES:&#xA;* If you get errors flashing READ the message it gives you and double check that you selected&#xA;* the correct board from the Tools menu in Arduino. Turn off any AV systems and reboot the computer.&#xA;* &#xA;* COMMUNITY REQUESTED FEATURES NOTE:&#xA;* All features in the community requested features section are provided as-is with no support from TH3D.&#xA;*/&#xA;&#xA;#ifndef CONFIGURATION_H&#xA;#define CONFIGURATION_H&#xA;#define CONFIGURATION_H_VERSION 010109&#xA;&#xA;//===========================================================================&#xA;//============================ TH3D Configuration ===========================&#xA;//===========================================================================&#xA;&#xA;// ONLY UNCOMMENT THINGS IN ONE PRINTER SECTION!!! IF YOU HAVE MULTIPLE MACHINES FLASH THEM ONE AT A TIME.&#xA;&#xA;//===========================================================================&#xA;// Creality Ender 3 Options - Select 'Sanguino 1284p' from Tools &amp;gt; Board&#xA;//===========================================================================&#xA;#define ENDER3&#xA;&#xA;// If you are using our EZOut V1/V2 (connected to LCD header) filament sensor kit please follow the install guide&#xA;// and then uncomment the #define EZOUT_ENABLE line below.&#xA;// Do NOT ever connect our filament sensor without the supplied adapter board.&#xA;//#define EZOUT_ENABLE&#xA;&#xA;// EZABL Probe Mounts (Ender 3 uses the same mounts as CR-10)&#xA;//#define CR10_OEM&#xA;//#define CR10_VOLCANO&#xA;//#define CR10_V6HEAVYDUTY&#xA;//#define TM3DAERO&#xA;//#define TM3DAERO_EXTENDED&#xA;//#define PETSFANG  //This is the RIGHT mounted version - if using the left mount please use the CUSTOM_PROBE option.&#xA;#define CUSTOM_PROBE&#xA;&#xA;// TMC2208 Creality Board Setting - uncomment this to set the driver type if you are using the TMC Creality board&#xA;//#define TMC_CREALITY_BOARD&#xA;&#xA;//=================================================================================================&#xA;// README - THE BELOW SETTINGS ARE ONLY FOR USING THE CR-10S DUAL BOARD WITH THE ENDER 3&#xA;// DO NOT UNCOMMENT THE ABOVE #define ENDER3 LINE IF USING THE DUAL BOARD&#xA;// Select 'Arduino Mega 2560' from Tools &amp;gt; Board - NOT Sanguino&#xA;//&#xA;// To use the Ender 3 LCD with the CR-10S dual board board connect the LCD cable to EXP1 on the &#xA;// CR-10S board but rotate it 180 degrees. The LCD end of the cable goes to EXP3 on the Ender 3 LCD.&#xA;// You will have to force it into the EXP1 but it will fit and work.&#xA;// &#xA;// EZABL and EZOut support are still supported just use the lines above this comment section.&#xA;//=================================================================================================&#xA;//#define ENDER3_DUALBOARD&#xA;&#xA;// Dual Extruder Board Options - The below options are for use with the TH3D CR-10S Board with dual extruder support.&#xA;&#xA;// If you are using a single hotend with the 2 into 1 adapter OR mixing nozzle uncomment the below line&#xA;//#define DUAL_EXTRUDER_SINGLE_HOTEND&#xA;&#xA;// If you are using a dual hotend with dual nozzles uncomment the below line&#xA;//#define DUAL_HOTEND_DUAL_NOZZLES&#xA;&#xA;// If you are using a 2nd EZOut V2 (connects to Y+ connector) filament sensor kit please follow the install guide&#xA;// and then uncomment the #define EZOUTV2_DUAL_ENABLE line below. Do NOT ever connect our filament sensor without the supplied adapter board.&#xA;//#define EZOUTV2_DUAL_ENABLE&#xA;&#xA;// Use Ender Bootscreeen instead of TH3D&#xA;//#define ENDER_BOOT&#xA;&#xA;//===========================================================================&#xA;// *************************  END PRINTER SECTION   *************************&#xA;//===========================================================================&#xA;&#xA;//===========================================================================&#xA;// EZABL Advanced Settings&#xA;//===========================================================================&#xA;&#xA;// If you want more or less EZABL probe points change the number below (only used if EZABL enabled)&#xA;// Default is 3 which gives you 3x3 grid for a total of 9 points. STICK WITH ODD NUMBERS&#xA;#define EZABL_POINTS 3&#xA;&#xA;// If you want to probe in on the bed more than 15mm change this below. &#xA;// Do not use 30mm for the Standard CR-10/s or the S4 as you will be on the bed screws.&#xA;// Try 50mm to avoid the binder clips if you use them. Do NOT go under 15mm here.&#xA;// You can do down to 10mm on the Wanhao i3 since it cannot print on the entire bed.&#xA;// You can do down to 5mm on the Wanhao i3 Mini since it cannot print on the entire bed.&#xA;// (only used if EZABL enabled)&#xA;#define EZABL_PROBE_EDGE 15&#xA;&#xA;// If you have issues with your machine running the faster probe setting disable the #define EZABL_FASTPROBE below.&#xA;// DO NOTE: Most machines will work with the fast probe enabled. Use M48 to verify accuracy.&#xA;#define EZABL_FASTPROBE&#xA;&#xA;// This will disable the XYE motors during probing. Can be useful if you have stepper motors causing interference issues with the EZABL sensor.&#xA;//#define PROBING_MOTORS_OFF&#xA;&#xA;// Heaters will stay on during probing - only use if directed to by support. Do not use on AC beds.&#xA;#define HEATERS_ON_DURING_PROBING&#xA;&#xA;// Letting the bed heat recover between probes can increase accuracy due to the bed warping during cooling/heating&#xA;// Enabling the below option will let the bed get back to temperature during probing but will increase probing times.&#xA;//#define WAIT_FOR_BED_HEATER&#xA;&#xA;// If you want a more granular control over the babystepping uncomment the below line.&#xA;// This will make the adjustment finer than the standard setting.&#xA;//#define FINE_BABYSTEPPING&#xA;&#xA;// This will extrapolate the implied tilt of the bed outside of the probe area. Do not comment out unless directed by support.&#xA;#define EZABL_OUTSIDE_GRID_COMPENSATION&#xA;&#xA;// Does your machine make weird noises/vibrations when it is probing the mesh? Enable this to slow down the speed between probe points.&#xA;//#define SLOWER_PROBE_MOVES&#xA;&#xA;//================================================================================&#xA;// IF YOU HAVE A CUSTOM PROBE MOUNT OR ONE THAT IS NOT PRE-SUPPORTED UNCOMMENT THE&#xA;// CUSTOM_PROBE OPTION IN YOUR PRINTER SECTION AND ENTER YOUR PROBE LOCATION BELOW&#xA;//================================================================================&#xA;#if ENABLED(CUSTOM_PROBE)&#xA;  /**&#xA;  *   Z Probe to nozzle (X,Y) offset, relative to (0, 0).&#xA;  *   X and Y offsets must be whole numbers.&#xA;  *&#xA;  *   In the following example the X and Y offsets are both positive:&#xA;  *   #define X_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER 10&#xA;  *   #define Y_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER 10&#xA;  *&#xA;  *      +-- BACK ---+&#xA;  *      |           |&#xA;  *    L |    (+) P  | R &amp;lt;-- probe (10,10)&#xA;  *    E |           | I&#xA;  *    F | (-) N (+) | G &amp;lt;-- nozzle (0,0)&#xA;  *    T |           | H&#xA;  *      |    (-)    | T&#xA;  *      |           |&#xA;  *      O-- FRONT --+&#xA;  *    (0,0)&#xA;  */&#xA;  #define X_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER -44  // X offset: -left  +right  [of the nozzle]&#xA;  #define Y_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER -7  // Y offset: -front +behind [the nozzle]&#xA;#endif&#xA;&#xA;//===========================================================================&#xA;//******************** EXTRA FEATURES AND TWEAKS ****************************&#xA;//===========================================================================&#xA;&#xA;// TH3D RGB LED STRIP ------------------------------&#xA;// If you are using the TH3D RGB strip connect to the Z+ endstop connection, power supply connection, and uncomment the below line&#xA;//#define TH3D_RGB_STRIP&#xA;// If you cut the strip shorter please count the LEDs that are left, uncomment the line below, and change the number below to how many LEDs you have.&#xA;#define TH3D_RGB_STRIP_LED_COUNT 20&#xA;&#xA;// EXTRUDER SETTINGS -------------------------------&#xA;&#xA;// If you want to change the Esteps for your printer you can uncomment the below line and set CUSTOM_ESTEPS_VALUE to what you want - USE WHOLE NUMBERS ONLY&#xA;#define CUSTOM_ESTEPS&#xA;#define CUSTOM_ESTEPS_VALUE 138&#xA;&#xA;// If you are using an TH3D Tough Extruder, Bondtech BMG (set steps below to 415), or E3D Titan Extruder&#xA;// uncomment the below line to setup the firmware to the correct steps and direction. Also applicable to Titan/Tough Aero setups.&#xA;//#define TITAN_EXTRUDER&#xA;#define TITAN_EXTRUDER_STEPS 463&#xA;&#xA;// DUAL HOTEND SETTINGS ----------------------------&#xA;&#xA;// This is the distance between each nozzle tip when using a dual hotend like the TH3D Tough Dual Hotend or the E3D Chimera or Dual hotends.&#xA;// This setting only applies to printers using a dual extruder board.&#xA;#define DUAL_HOTEND_X_DISTANCE 18.0&#xA;&#xA;// THERMISTOR SETTINGS -----------------------------&#xA;&#xA;// If you are using an E3D V6 Hotend with their cartridge thermistor (not glass version) uncomment the below line.&#xA;//#define V6_HOTEND&#xA;&#xA;// If you are using a Tough Hotend from TH3D or any thermistors TH3D sells for your hotend uncomment the below line.&#xA;//#define TH3D_HOTEND_THERMISTOR&#xA;&#xA;// If you are using a thermistor TH3D sells for your bed uncomment the below line.&#xA;//#define TH3D_BED_THERMISTOR&#xA;&#xA;// If you are using a Keenovo with SSR and the Keenovo temperature sensor uncomment the below line.&#xA;//#define KEENOVO_TEMPSENSOR&#xA;&#xA;// If you are using a known hotend thermistor value uncomment the below 2 lines and enter the thermistor number replacing the X after the #define KNOWN_HOTEND_THERMISTOR_VALUE&#xA;//#define KNOWN_HOTEND_THERMISTOR&#xA;//#define KNOWN_HOTEND_THERMISTOR_VALUE X&#xA;&#xA;// If you are using a known bed thermistor value uncomment the below 2 lines and enter the thermistor number replacing the X after the #define KNOWN_BED_THERMISTOR_VALUE&#xA;//#define KNOWN_BED_THERMISTOR&#xA;//#define KNOWN_BED_THERMISTOR_VALUE X&#xA;&#xA;// If you want to make thermal protection periods less or more adjust below. The number is in seconds.&#xA;// If you are getting false thermal runaway then increase the protection time. Do not make it over 300 for either setting.&#xA;#define HOTEND_THERMAL_PROTECTION_TIME 60&#xA;#define BED_THERMAL_PROTECTION_TIME 180&#xA;&#xA;// BED SETTINGS ------------------------------------&#xA;&#xA;// If you want PID tuning on your bed you can enable the below line. But PID on a bed is not typically needed. By default BED PID is disabled.&#xA;// This will be disabled when using automatic or manual mesh leveling with a 1284p board due to memory limitations.&#xA;//#define PIDBED_ENABLE&#xA;&#xA;// If you are using an AC bed with a standalone controller (Keenovo) uncomment the below line to disable the heated bed in the firmware&#xA;//#define AC_BED&#xA;&#xA;// Stock bed max is 120C for this firmware. Enable this to allow temps up to 150C. Your bed must support this temp for it to achieve the higher temperatures.&#xA;//#define BED_HIGHTEMP&#xA;&#xA;// MISC --------------------------------------------&#xA;&#xA;// If you have a 5015 fan that whines when under 100% speed uncomment the below line.&#xA;//#define FAN_FIX&#xA;&#xA;// Use your own printer name&#xA;//#define USER_PRINTER_NAME &quot;Ender 3&quot; &#xA;&#xA;// If your printer is homing to the endstops hard uncomment this to change the homing speed/divisor to make it less aggressive.&#xA;//#define SLOWER_HOMING&#xA;&#xA;// BOOT SCREEN OPTIONS -----------------------------&#xA;&#xA;// Use TinyMachines Bootscreen instead of TH3D&#xA;//#define TM3D_BOOT&#xA;&#xA;// Disable Bootscreen completely&#xA;#define DISABLE_BOOT&#xA;&#xA;//===========================================================================&#xA;//****************** COMMUNITY REQUESTED FEATURES ***************************&#xA;//===========================================================================&#xA;&#xA;// HOME OFFSET ADJUSTMENT --------------------------&#xA;// If you need to adjust your XY home offsets from defaults then you can uncomment the HOME_ADJUST_LOCATION line below and enter your&#xA;// custom XY offsets. This is provided for convenience and is unsupported with included product support.&#xA;// How to use - measure (home XY then jog using the LCD 1mm at a time) the X and Y distance the nozzle is off&#xA;// the build plate and then put those as NEGATIVE values below, positive values will NOT work (move your endstops to fix a positve offset).&#xA;//#define HOME_ADJUST&#xA;#define X_HOME_ADJUST_LOCATION -10&#xA;#define Y_HOME_ADJUST_LOCATION -10&#xA;&#xA;// LINEAR ADVANCE ----------------------------------&#xA;// See here on how to use Linear Advance: http://marlinfw.org/docs/features/lin_advance.html&#xA;//&#xA;//#define LINEAR_ADVANCE&#xA;// Change the K Value here or use M900 KX.XX in your starting code (recommended).&#xA;#define LINEAR_ADVANCE_K 0&#xA;// NOTE: If using linear advance along with EZABL on a printer with 1284p some Control &amp;gt; Motion menus will not be displayed due to space restrictions.&#xA;// You can still change these via GCode commands.&#xA;&#xA;// BL TOUCH ----------------------------------------&#xA;// If you want to use the BL-Touch install your EZOut Board, uncomment the 2 lines below, uncomment the CUSTOM_PROBE option in your printer section, &#xA;// and then enter your probe offsets in the CUSTOM_PROBE section above. The Pin 27 boards on eBay are clones of our original EZOut. If you want to &#xA;// support the people that originally came up with the board you can get our EZOut breakout board here: http://EZOut.TH3DStudio.com&#xA;// Sales from our shop allow us to allocate time for community firmware development at no charge to you. &amp;lt;3&#xA;// If you have a V3 BL Touch also uncomment the BLTOUCH_V3 line to fix issues with the new V3 probe.&#xA;//&#xA;#define BLTOUCH&#xA;#define BLTOUCH_V3&#xA;// Here is where you set your servo pin. EZOut Servo Pin Numbers: Ender3/5/CR-10 - 27, Ender 2 - 29. For 2560 boards look for the pin you connected the servo wire to and enter below.&#xA;#define SERVO0_PIN 27&#xA;//&#xA;// NOTE: On 1284p boards due to space limitations and the large amount of code the BLTouch requires for the LCD Menus&#xA;// the Bootscreen and some Control &amp;gt; Motion menus will not be displayed due to space restrictions&#xA;&#xA;// MANUAL MESH LEVELING ----------------------------&#xA;// If you want to use manual mesh leveling you can enable the below option. This is for generating a MANUAL mesh WITHOUT a probe. &#xA;// Mesh Bed Leveling Documentation: http://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/G029-mbl.html If used with a 1284P board the bootscreen will be disabled to save space.&#xA;// NOTE: If you want to automate the leveling process our EZABL kits do this for you. Check them out here: http://EZABL.TH3DStudio.com&#xA;//#define MANUAL_MESH_LEVELING&#xA;&#xA;// POWER LOSS RECOVERY -----------------------------&#xA;// Continue after Power-Loss feature will store the current state to the SD Card at the start of each layer&#xA;// during SD printing. If this is found at bootup it will ask you if you want to resume the print.&#xA;//&#xA;// NOTE: This feature causes excessive wear on your SD card. This will disable junction jerk,  SCurve Acceleration, and Linear Advance due to RAM limitations.&#xA;//#define POWER_LOSS_RECOVERY&#xA;&#xA;// MOTION SETTINGS ---------------------------------&#xA;// There are 2 new acceleration/jerk controls available in this firmware that can result is better print quality and&#xA;// smoother movement. To try each out just enable them below.&#xA;// Due to Anet board restrictions this is always disabled on those machines.&#xA;//#define JUNCTION_DEVIATION_ON&#xA;//#define S_CURVE_ACCELERATION_ON&#xA;&#xA;//================================================================================================&#xA;// Language - This is provided for convenience and is unsupported with included product support.&#xA;// We only test compile with English language. If you run into space issues disable some features.&#xA;//================================================================================================&#xA;&#xA;/**&#xA; * LCD LANGUAGE&#xA; *&#xA; * Select the language to display on the LCD. These languages are available:&#xA; *&#xA; *    en, an, bg, ca, cn, cz, cz_utf8, de, el, el-gr, es, eu, fi, fr, fr_utf8, gl,&#xA; *    hr, it, kana, kana_utf8, nl, pl, pt, pt_utf8, pt-br, pt-br_utf8, ru, sk_utf8,&#xA; *    tr, uk, zh_CN, zh_TW, test&#xA; */&#xA;&#xA;#define LCD_LANGUAGE en&#xA;&#xA;#include &quot;Configuration_beta.h&quot;&#xA;#include &quot;Configuration_backend.h&quot;&#xA;&#xA;#define UNIFIED_VERSION &quot;TH3D U1.R2.15&quot;&#xA;&#xA;#endif // CONFIGURATION_H&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Cura Start GCode&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;M201 X500.00 Y500.00 Z100.00 E5000.00 ;Setup machine max acceleration&#xA;M203 X500.00 Y500.00 Z10.00 E50.00 ;Setup machine max feedrate&#xA;M204 P500.00 R1000.00 T500.00 ;Setup Print/Retract/Travel acceleration&#xA;M205 X8.00 Y8.00 Z0.40 E5.00 ;Setup Jerk&#xA;M220 S100 ;Reset Feedrate&#xA;M221 S100 ;Reset Flowrate&#xA;&#xA;G28 G29 ;Home&#xA;&#xA;G92 E0 ;Reset Extruder&#xA;G1 Z2.0 F3000 ;Move Z Axis up&#xA;G1 X10.1 Y20 Z0.28 F5000.0 ;Move to start position&#xA;G1 X10.1 Y200.0 Z0.28 F1500.0 E15 ;Draw the first line&#xA;G1 X10.4 Y200.0 Z0.28 F5000.0 ;Move to side a little&#xA;G1 X10.4 Y20 Z0.28 F1500.0 E30 ;Draw the second line&#xA;G92 E0 ;Reset Extruder&#xA;G1 Z2.0 F3000 ;Move Z Axis up&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15159" LastActivityDate="2021-04-07T04:34:57.643" Title="G29 Auto Grid Leveling Doesn't Do Anything" Tags="|marlin|creality-ender-3|bltouch|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11002" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11001" CreationDate="2019-09-12T10:27:25.017" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;G-code is read line-by-line, see e.g. &lt;a href=&quot;/q/7417&quot;&gt;Is G-code read line by line?&lt;/a&gt;. If the posted start G-code is the actual used G-code, &lt;code&gt;G29&lt;/code&gt; is not executed because it is on the same line as &lt;code&gt;G28&lt;/code&gt;. This means that in:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;G28 G29 ;Home&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;code&gt;G29&lt;/code&gt; simply is ignored (it is not recognised by the interpreter as parameters for &lt;code&gt;G28&lt;/code&gt;). This should be changed into:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;G28 ;Home&#xA;G29 ;Perform bed leveling&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2019-09-12T10:27:25.017" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11003" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11004" CreationDate="2019-09-12T13:06:02.193" Score="3" ViewCount="439" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've just done my &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3709044&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;first print&lt;/a&gt; on an Ultimaker 3 Extended and I'm slightly disappointed with the results, so I'm trying to understand how I can do better next time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;My first print&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Preparing for printing I naively just dropped the two &lt;code&gt;stl&lt;/code&gt; files into Cura, set the recommended layer height and infill, selected support (defaulting to Extruder 1), deselected adhesion, ran the slice, saved the g-code and started the print running. Luckily the head 1 did have the same PLA AA 0.4 filament that Cura assumed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the print finished, I stripped out the support structures, cleaning out the hollow, and cleaning off lots of stringy loose filaments between the lower support and the bottom edge of the print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even after cleaning up though, the overhanging structure above the support structure turned out to be very rough with many individual filaments visible and in irregular positions, rather than the nice concentric lines in the slice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;My first attempt to optimise the print&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looking at the completed print I realised that there would have been only a fraction of the support structure, and probably clean edges, if the part had been oriented as a &lt;code&gt;d&lt;/code&gt; rather than as a &lt;code&gt;p&lt;/code&gt; (the rough surface being the bottom of the &lt;code&gt;p&lt;/code&gt; overhang).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I re-ran the slice in &lt;code&gt;d&lt;/code&gt; orientation and that saved 10 minutes of print time, and a 100&amp;nbsp;mm of filament, so I know I'll definitely need to look out for that in the future. I can also see how that would fix the problem with the external overhang separating out into loose threads, since that face would no longer be an overhang.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Trying to add water soluble supports&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After the first fix, I wondered what I could do with the second extruder and realised that it was filled with water soluble PVA filament. This made me wonder if this would have helped with the internal overhang.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I Configured Extruder 2 as PVA BB 0.4 and selected Extruder 2 for the support structures and re-ran the slice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was surprised that the it was now taking 40 minutes longer and using almost 470&amp;nbsp;mm more filament!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looking at the slices, Cura had created a huge PVA scaffolding on the &lt;em&gt;outside&lt;/em&gt; of the print, leaving the inside, where the previous PLA support had been, completely empty:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KXOTE.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KXOTEm.png&quot; alt=&quot;Print with PVA support&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;vs.&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ur5eG.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ur5eGm.png&quot; alt=&quot;Print with PLA support&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This was not what I was expecting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Questions&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Why didn't the slicing algorithm place PVA support structures inside the overhang, in the same way as it placed the PLA support structures?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;What is the reason for the external scaffolding, and how does it help support the internal overhang, which now has no internal support at all?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Is the behaviour I expected possible, advisable or configurable in Cura? If so, what options should I be looking at, if not is there other software that does support this?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="63" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-09-13T21:42:51.353" LastActivityDate="2019-09-13T21:42:51.353" Title="Understanding water soluble support structures" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|pla|slicing|pva|ultimaker-3|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11004" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11003" CreationDate="2019-09-12T14:09:38.333" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Owning the Ultimaker 3 Extended and having printed kilometers of filament on this printer I can tell you that printing with PVA, apart from the slicing problems you mention, is not easy as it looks. PVA clogs up very fast and is very hygroscopic. Moist PVA will make popping sounds on extrusion and is prone to failing. PVA is not my preferred solution. An alternative solution is to use break-away filament, my colleagues have some reasonable good experience with that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Why didn't the slicing algorithm place PVA support structures inside the overhang, in the same way as it placed the PLA support structures?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The difference you report could be caused by the slicer settings. I get exactly the same results if you set the slicing parameter &lt;code&gt;Support Placement&lt;/code&gt; to &lt;code&gt;Touching Buildplate&lt;/code&gt; (first image), or &lt;code&gt;Everywhere&lt;/code&gt; (second image).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AWlKOm.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;`Support Placement` option `Touching Buildplate`&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AWlKOm.png&quot; alt=&quot;&amp;lt;code&amp;gt;Support Placement&amp;lt;/code&amp;gt; option &amp;lt;code&amp;gt;Touching Buildplate&amp;lt;/code&amp;gt;&quot; title=&quot;`Support Placement` option `Touching Buildplate`&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;vs.&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xHc76m.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;`Support Placement` option `Everywhere`&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xHc76m.png&quot; alt=&quot;&amp;lt;code&amp;gt;Support Placement&amp;lt;/code&amp;gt; option &amp;lt;code&amp;gt;Everywhere&amp;lt;/code&amp;gt;&quot; title=&quot;`Support Placement` option `Everywhere`&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;What is the reason for the external scaffolding, and how does it help support the internal overhang, which now has no internal support at all?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To answer the scaffolding part of your question, that can only be explained by being the decision of the developers. There must be very good reasons for doing it like this as a similar support structure is generated in other slicers, e.g. Slic3r (actually this is caused by a slicer setting, see &lt;a href=&quot;/a/11006/&quot;&gt;this answer&lt;/a&gt; explaining why the scaffolding is caused). Some slicers do have options to change the support type, e.g. Slic3r has the option &lt;code&gt;pillars&lt;/code&gt;, which creates pillars without external scaffolding:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Gpzssm.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Slic3r pillars support option&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Gpzssm.png&quot; alt=&quot;Slic3r pillars support option&quot; title=&quot;Slic3r pillars support option&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;vs.&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pllIVm.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Slic3r rectangular support option&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pllIVm.png&quot; alt=&quot;Slic3r rectangular support option&quot; title=&quot;Slic3r rectangular support option&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Is the behaviour I expected possible, advisable or configurable in Cura? If so, what options should I be looking at, if not is there other software that does support this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Playing with the settings to reduce the amount of PVA as suggested in the comments by enabling the type of extruder for specific parts of the extruder I was able to create a solution without scaffolding. This solution only uses PVA for the bottom and top layer of the support structure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/edr4b.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Cura additional support extruder settings&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/edr4b.png&quot; alt=&quot;Cura additional support extruder settings&quot; title=&quot;Cura additional support extruder settings&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The shown settings&lt;sup&gt;1)&lt;/sup&gt; produce a support structure with PVA top and bottom layers:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1ysAhm.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Non scaffolding support structure&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1ysAhm.png&quot; alt=&quot;Non scaffolding support structure&quot; title=&quot;Non scaffolding support structure&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;or&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Zk35Cm.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Non scaffolding support structure in material color&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Zk35Cm.png&quot; alt=&quot;Non scaffolding support structure in material color&quot; title=&quot;Non scaffolding support structure in material color&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Where the latter image is in material color; black PLA and natural colored PVA&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1)&lt;/sup&gt; &lt;em&gt;It might be worth mentioning that by default, the Support section doesn't show the Support interface extruder options and you have to go into Preferences and check the Setting Visibility option for those to appear.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-09-13T14:29:38.817" LastActivityDate="2019-09-13T14:29:38.817" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11005" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10738" CreationDate="2019-09-12T15:22:07.343" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The main issue here (the gaps between layers) was solved by reducing combing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Combing was enabled without a limit on the range so a max combing distance of 10&amp;nbsp;mm was introduced. This prevented too much filament from oozing out during travels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The oozing filament was causing nothing to come out of the nozzle at the beginning of an extrusion, thus creating the gaps that were consistent in location.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16827" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-09-12T15:36:35.877" LastActivityDate="2019-09-12T15:36:35.877" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11006" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11003" CreationDate="2019-09-13T10:03:36.777" Score="3" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;What is the reason for the external scaffolding...?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Reading through the &lt;a href=&quot;https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/52663-support&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Ultimaker support page&lt;/a&gt;, I discovered that there is a &lt;em&gt;Support horizontal expansion&lt;/em&gt; option in the &lt;em&gt;Support&lt;/em&gt; section of the Custom Profile.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This appears to default to 0 mm for PLA, but defaults to 3 mm for PVA, which explains the difference in slicing behaviour.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I set &lt;em&gt;Support horizontal expansion&lt;/em&gt; to 0 mm, then I get the support I originally expected:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pAtNh.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pAtNh.png&quot; alt=&quot;Print with PVA support and Support horizontal expansion of 0&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ultimately though, the solution proposed by &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/8884/trish&quot;&gt;Trish&lt;/a&gt; and detailed in &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/5740/0scar&quot;&gt;Oscar&lt;/a&gt;'s &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/11004/63&quot;&gt;answer&lt;/a&gt; using PVA just at the interfaces would be a &lt;em&gt;much&lt;/em&gt; better solution, given the cost of PVA.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="63" LastActivityDate="2019-09-13T10:03:36.777" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11007" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-09-13T12:35:31.593" Score="2" ViewCount="9694" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am having a few problems with my BLTouch. I have calibrated it several times using different methods and get the nozzle being 1.3&amp;nbsp;mm lower than the BLTouch pin so a Z offset of -1.3&amp;nbsp;mm. This works fine for auto homing, bed levelling and using code &lt;code&gt;G1 Z0&lt;/code&gt; to lower to where needed. However when using Cura to print the nozzle homes exactly as it should then drives the nozzle in to the bed as it starts or tries to start to print and not just a little bit either. Anyone have any ideas?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Start G-code is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&#xA;G28 ;Home&#xA;G29 ;Probe&#xA;G1 Z15.0 F6000 ;Move Platform down 15 mm&#xA;G92 E0&#xA;G1 F200 E3&#xA;G92 E0&#xA;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18553" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-02-10T19:24:08.147" LastActivityDate="2020-03-13T12:14:34.727" Title="BLTouch calibrated, nozzle still dives into the bed" Tags="|bed-leveling|bltouch|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11008" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11007" CreationDate="2019-09-13T13:00:15.363" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should be able to offset this with a &lt;code&gt;G54 Z-1.3&lt;/code&gt; - &lt;strong&gt;if your setup accepts these gcodes&lt;/strong&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do this, always add a &lt;code&gt;G53&lt;/code&gt; to the very start and just before the &lt;code&gt;M30&lt;/code&gt; to clear all offsets after job finish (or in the event of a cancel, at the start of the next job).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not experienced with a wide variety of printers or firmware, but our repetier-based printers (and we use the same controls for our refurbished Fadal CNC machines) use G53-G59:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.cnccookbook.com/g54-g92-g52-work-offsets-cnc-g-code/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;As explained in this tutorial from cnccookbook.com&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Basic work offsets are very simple to specify: simply enter one of G54, G55, G56, G57, G58, or G59. [...] When you execute the work offset g-code, the XYZ offset will be added to all of your coordinates from that point forward.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/G-code&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;As detailed on Wikipedia&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;G54-59&lt;/strong&gt;: Have largely replaced position register (G50 and G92). Each tuple of axis offsets relates program zero directly to machine zero. Standard is 6 tuples (G54 to G59), with optional extensibility to 48 more via G54.1 P1 to P48.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://hyrel3d.net/wiki/index.php/Gcode#G54_through_G59_-_Set_Offsets&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;And on the gcode dictionary provided by Hyrel 3D&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;G54 through G59 - Set Offsets&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;  G54, G55, G56, G57, G58, and G59 will each store and invoke offsets in the X, Y, and/or Z axes for all subsequent moves. Any values not invoked will remain with their previous value (0 unless earlier specified otherwise).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;X is the offset in mm in the X axis.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Y is the offset in mm in the Y axis.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Z is the offset in mm in the Z axis.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Here is an example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;code&gt;G54 X100 Y-50&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;This command is decoded and executed by the printer as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;G54 (set offsets)&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  - X100 (+100mm to all X coordinates)&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  - Y-50 (-50mm to all Y coordinates)&lt;br&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Note that this differs from an M6, where the offsets are only applied to a SINGLE tool position.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Disclaimer: I work for Hyrel 3D.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4922" LastEditorUserId="4922" LastEditDate="2019-09-13T15:25:14.227" LastActivityDate="2019-09-13T15:25:14.227" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11009" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-09-13T15:34:26.373" Score="3" ViewCount="74" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is my first time for 3D printing, I read some tips for forms, minimal thickness, angles, round or flat, but I am still not sure if I am going to do all well for the first time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For my college final project, I had to make a small prototype and it requires an enclosure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My concerns are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I am not sure if my design will require supports&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Overhangs &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Printing Orientation&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here part of my design:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Most walls are 2&amp;nbsp;mm+ thick&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The lid is a separate file, but it is really simple just a flat rectangle, I believe it is going well the first time&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LmdU1.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Screenshot of 3D model&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LmdU1.png&quot; alt=&quot;Screenshot of 3D model&quot; title=&quot;Screenshot of 3D model&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6Dxue.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Wireframe&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6Dxue.png&quot; alt=&quot;Wireframe&quot; title=&quot;Wireframe&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18555" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2019-09-13T18:02:05.663" LastActivityDate="2019-09-13T20:56:32.400" Title="My first 3D printing - I need some advice or tips" Tags="|support-structures|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11010" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11009" CreationDate="2019-09-13T20:56:32.400" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I see this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I had to make a small prototype and it requires an enclosure&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;yes, it is hollow inside&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do you intend to get your item inside the result? This part really needs to be &lt;em&gt;two pieces&lt;/em&gt; with &lt;em&gt;two separate prints&lt;/em&gt;. Basically, a box and the lid, where you leave space for screws, include tabs, or plan for glue connections.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finish that alteration, and the support issue suddenly becomes &lt;strong&gt;much&lt;/strong&gt; easier. Most slicers have options to generate support for you, including limiting support to spaces between the model and build plate. Now you can rotate the angle at the which the part is printed in order to minimize your support needs, or so that most of the connection points for the support will not be visible in the finished product.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12562" LastActivityDate="2019-09-13T20:56:32.400" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11011" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-09-14T01:35:33.537" Score="2" ViewCount="773" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have ordered a dual hotend Chimera and it came with 2x 12&amp;nbsp;V heater elements (in my rush I forgot to order the one with 2x 24V).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xhQNem.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Chimera dual filament hotend&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xhQNem.png&quot; alt=&quot;Chimera dual filament hotend&quot; title=&quot;Chimera dual filament hotend&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it possible to run these 12&amp;nbsp;V heater elements in series? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;I am planning on running this with an SRK 1.3 board.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17245" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-09-16T06:30:57.830" LastActivityDate="2019-09-16T14:49:18.983" Title="Two 12 V heater elements in series in a dual hotend" Tags="|hotend|heat-management|dual-nozzle|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11012" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10998" CreationDate="2019-09-14T07:44:46.920" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;While most components (cooling body, heatblock, heater cartridges, thermistors) of knockoff e3d-v6 hotends can be similar enough to not notice in a large part, or at least functionally the same. Note that I don't say the parts are necessarily interchangeable - a lot what is sold under the name is not what it claims to be. The main distinguishing difference is the heatbreak: a proper e3d v6 hotend is hard to manufacture, so let's compare the designs of the real and the knockoffs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Original&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;e3D v6 heatbreaks are &lt;strong&gt;necked&lt;/strong&gt; considerably and have a &lt;strong&gt;socket with an airgap&lt;/strong&gt; to the cooling body in top to take the lining and prevent heat flow to the PTFE pipe. This makes it an &amp;quot;all-metal&amp;quot; hotend, because the &lt;strong&gt;liner stops in the cold zone&lt;/strong&gt;, where the cooling block is screwed on, and thus gets the least heat to the bowden, allowing to print hotter than with a lined hotend. The cooling block and the heather block &lt;strong&gt;threads are also not the same: M6 and M7.&lt;/strong&gt; They are flat at the front to securely butt the nozzle thread against.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Their internal and external geometry looks like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/g4N2w.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/g4N2w.png&quot; alt=&quot;Original&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Knockoffs&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Knockoffs vary a lot how their heatbreak is constructed. Some are &lt;strong&gt;lined&lt;/strong&gt; all the way through. Others are &lt;strong&gt;pass-through&lt;/strong&gt; - and neither is an all-metal hotend. Some knockoffs are necked but use the same thread on both sides.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;gallery of knockoffs&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ru7HI.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ru7HI.png&quot; alt=&quot;pass-through&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SloNd.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SloNd.png&quot; alt=&quot;lined&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rRVIJ.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rRVIJ.png&quot; alt=&quot;same thread, various variants&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/S4TuI.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/S4TuI.png&quot; alt=&quot;Same thread, conical&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Conclusion&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you print a lot of high-temperature materials, the need for a proper all-metal hotend is there. Many knockoffs don't do this necking properly or invalidate its effect by lining the hotend all the way through.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that the machining quality can be quite different.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Due to sizing, not all knockoffs allow to mount a genuine heatbreak with knockoff cooler and heater block.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:29:41.667" LastActivityDate="2019-09-14T08:26:36.887" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11013" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-09-14T09:14:29.417" Score="2" ViewCount="280" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to print an architectural model of a house with 2 floors and a room on the roof. It was designed in SketchUp by a friend. I removed inner walls and floors to print it upside down to get just the outer look of that building. All is good in SketchUp and in Meshlab (converted &lt;code&gt;.skp&lt;/code&gt; to &lt;code&gt;.3ds&lt;/code&gt;) and even after exporting it to &lt;code&gt;.stl&lt;/code&gt;  format. But when I slice it and select preview, it is adding a floor on its own. Please take a look at the attached screenshots to get a better idea of what I am referring to. Any idea what's causing this and how it can be solved?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/s2GYU.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Prepare.png shows model before slicing&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/s2GYU.png&quot; alt=&quot;Prepare.png shows model before slicing&quot; title=&quot;Prepare.png shows model before slicing&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XmySF.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Preview.png shows model after slicing&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XmySF.png&quot; alt=&quot;Preview.png shows model after slicing&quot; title=&quot;Preview.png shows model after slicing&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Using Ultimaker Cura 4.1.0 for slicing at 0.2 mm layer height)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18559" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:29:41.667" LastActivityDate="2023-11-23T10:58:34.690" Title="Slicer is adding additional floor bed" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|3d-models|slicing|support-structures|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11014" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-09-14T22:53:10.930" Score="5" ViewCount="1429" Body="&lt;p&gt;What could cause that? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When linear_advance (v1.5) is &quot;off&quot; (&lt;code&gt;M900 K0&lt;/code&gt;) - everything is uniform and smooth, only corners are protruding as expected. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When it is &quot;on&quot;, I get these horizontal defects. My calibrated K-value is 2, I am getting same defects with K=1 as well as K=2. Position of defects is repeatable, so it is not random mechanics-caused underextrusion. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My setup uses a BMG Bowden extruder, A4988 drivers for Z and extruder with diode smoothers (X, Y are on TMC2209). I print the PETG with 245 °C, Perimeters at 50 mm/s, Gyroid Infill at 120 mm/s.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;After the original posting of the question I tried the following:&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Removed diode smoothers on extruder and Z - &lt;strong&gt;no improvement&lt;/strong&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;It seems defect is somewhat connected to infill. Without infill print is nearly perfect. 50x50 box without infill prints perfectly, so it does not look like outer-wall speed-related. Reduced outer wall to 33&amp;nbsp;mm/s, infill to 100&amp;nbsp;mm/s (accelerations are also down 750-&gt;500, 1000-&gt;750), no improvement. Returned to A4988 on all axis - no improvement. Switched to 1/8 step on extruder (maybe it is step speed-related) - no improvement. Disabled infill before walls - &lt;strong&gt;no improvement&lt;/strong&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Starting shooting time-lapses, and outer perimeter is extremely weird on some layers (see below)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Migrated configuration to latest Marlin 2.0. Enabled SQUARE_WAVE_STEPPING - no improvement. Gcode is uploaded here: &lt;a href=&quot;https://s.14.by/3d_issue.gcode&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://s.14.by/3d_issue.gcode&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;After inspecting larger parts printed before linear_advance (on large 100&amp;nbsp;mm circular parts) - I also noticed this defect, more rare though. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Connected to oversized lab power supply, to ensure there is no power sag during high load. 24V 16A max power consumption. Print defects remain exactly the same though. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rHbCY.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rHbCY.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LCWl3.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;3D print showing horizontal defects&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LCWl3.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;3D print showing horizontal defects&quot; title=&quot;3D print showing horizontal defects&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18565" LastEditorUserId="18565" LastEditDate="2019-09-24T10:49:29.510" LastActivityDate="2021-03-12T00:10:46.860" Title="Horizontal defects when linear_advance enabled?" Tags="|petg|bowden|flyingbear-ghost-4|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="43" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11016" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11011" CreationDate="2019-09-15T08:34:44.550" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;No you don't want to do that.&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A 12&amp;nbsp;V 30&amp;nbsp;W heater has a resistance of about 5&amp;nbsp;&amp;ohm; (2.5&amp;nbsp;A on 12&amp;nbsp;V). A 24&amp;nbsp;V 30&amp;nbsp;W heater is about 19&amp;nbsp;&amp;ohm; (1.25&amp;nbsp;A on 24&amp;nbsp;V). Placing two 12&amp;nbsp;V heaters in series means about 10&amp;nbsp;&amp;ohm;, for 24&amp;nbsp;V that means that the current is 2.5&amp;nbsp;A, similar to a 12&amp;nbsp;V circuit, the power will be 30&amp;nbsp;W for each heater. So it appears that this should work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But, the problem is that being in series, both the hotends are heated. This is not beneficial for the unused core which is prone to ooze filament and can cook filament if not used for a long time (long stand-by high temperature). Typically, unused printing cores go to a lower stand-by temperature when they are not printing. Also it would be more difficult to have filaments of different temperatures in the hotends. Furthermore, which thermistor would you use? A hotend cools down by melting filament, the temperature drop is measured by the thermistor results in the control logic adding current to the heater to compensate the loss in temperature. If you only use one thermistor (basically, from a firmware configuration perspective, the setup is similar to having a single heater in a single hotend and having the filament being changed) and using the other core (without a thermistor) to extract filament, the temperature drop will not be registered and as such not controlled. There is no default firmware solution to use 2 thermistors in a &quot;single&quot; heating element (in this case strand of heating elements), this will probably require some modding to the source code of the firmware.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could test this setup, but I would not use it for a long time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-09-16T06:12:49.173" LastActivityDate="2019-09-16T06:12:49.173" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11017" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10999" CreationDate="2019-09-15T10:30:35.620" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I figured out the problem. I reduced printing speed and printing temperature and the print came out decent. Still some issues but worlds better then before. I will try a few more settings to determine exactly what was the actual Issue. I will also try what @Fernando Baltazar recommended and update here what exactly changed the printing quality.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ty3df.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ty3df.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18536" LastActivityDate="2019-09-15T10:30:35.620" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11018" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11019" CreationDate="2019-09-15T14:15:12.030" Score="1" ViewCount="176" Body="&lt;p&gt;The handle of a micro wave oven broke.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can't just order a replacement part because I can't even attach the new one. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem is that the screw heads are somewhere on the interior side of the door, which cannot be disassembled (non destructively at least). I wouldn't even do it because of safety reasons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have access to the threads of two loose and captive screws to work with (indicated by the two red lines on picture one). The screws are not machine screws, but screws for plastic like in the attached picture.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The plan is to 3d print the plastic part of the handle and reuse the front aluminum cover.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't want the handle to be loose, so I'm looking for suggestions to attach the new handle. I have a lot of ideas, maybe I will share them later if they are not mentioned at some point. The main problem is: how to attach something when all I have to work with is a loose, non machine screw ? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZziLk.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZziLk.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QY4kK.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QY4kK.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18571" LastEditorUserId="18571" LastEditDate="2019-09-16T14:30:18.507" LastActivityDate="2019-09-18T00:15:18.093" Title="Attach handle on a loose screw" Tags="|3d-design|material|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11019" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11018" CreationDate="2019-09-15T16:02:37.940" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You are facing 2 problems in this case:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Material choice&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Design&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Material choice&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as I can see, this is an oven that can heat its interior to roundabout 250 °C, which means that the door will radiate a lot of heat. This needs special high-temperature plastics to withstand - PLA and ABS are not an option for this!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would suggest looking for PEEK (stable at ~260°C) or a high-temperature resin print in this case, as there are some resins which can withstand much higher temperatures after curing. Note that PEEK is traded usually for above 100 €/kg and needs a specialty printer. Even the less stable PEI filament (works under 170 °C) needs a specialty printer: All metal hotend and 350-380 °C extruder are needed!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Design&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The plastic screws you show are self-cutting plastic screws. if their head is accessible, they get screwed into holes that have a bore large enough for the center.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the screw head isn't accessible, for turning but can be pressed down, then one could opt to use high-temperature resin to cure inside oversized holes over the screw. This is not an option if the screw can't be pressed into the part though, as then the handle always will rattle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Repair?!&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that you might be able to access the screws with a little work, if you have the right &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wFveU-YYYRk&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;tools and manual&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:29:41.667" LastActivityDate="2019-09-15T16:07:43.583" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11021" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10967" CreationDate="2019-09-16T07:06:02.503" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cardboard is fundamentally paper. Paper ignites - just as Ray Bradbury claims - at around 233 °C or 451 °F.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A thin heater wire usually glows red hot under operation. Not dark red, not blood cherry, not dark cherry, it's usually medium cherry to dark orange in operation, as one can easily tell by looking into a trusty toaster oven, which also shows us how powerful of a heating element this is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In a typical toaster, heater wires are mounted in a metal frame and backed by some non-flammable material that looks like paper but is not. In a 2004 &lt;a href=&quot;https://patents.google.com/patent/US6992271B2/en&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;patent&lt;/a&gt; for such a method, they use a sheet of mica. But how hot is our wire? Well, under mains power, the wire of a toaster reaches 700-900 °C within seconds, heating the inner chamber of the toaster despite the slots to about 200-250 °C so quick that the bread roasts deliciously... until the heat controlling bimetal strip releases it up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We operate these wires for at best a few minutes. In an electric forge, pretty much the same wires with a little more thickness to them are run at lemon glow for hours... and they are embedded in firebrick material to prevent them from igniting stuff touching them by accident!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How we know the temperature? Incandescence charts of course: &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XAH7r.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XAH7r.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Conclusion&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Paper or cardboard backing on heater wires is a bad idea. Mounting the heater wire to a metal frame that is as nonconductive as possible and without a chance that something accidentally touches it is needed. Fiberglass or rock material would serve as a good carrier, an aluminium block with radiators would give a good heating-to-surface mix, especially is precautions are taken to make the wire surface nonconductive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even using wood close to such a heater is a gamble I would not want to take. It's also best to mount the heating element into an enclosure that can't touch the wooden outer chamber and that stays put if the enclosure is opened or removed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:29:41.667" LastActivityDate="2019-09-17T12:08:12.350" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11024" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11011" CreationDate="2019-09-16T14:49:18.983" Score="1" Body="&lt;h2&gt;This will not work as you intend.&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The heaters are designed to be independent.  They do not share a thermal path between them.  The thermal load on the two extruders will be different whenever one nozzle is active and the other on standby, and there is no condition when both are extruding at the same time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The two thermistors are needed so that each nozzle can be individually controlled.  Placing the heaters either in series or parallel defeats this control, and many problems will follow.  You will spend days trying to understand why filament is dripping, or not extruding, or the PLA cooks in the nozzle, or the firmware shuts down for over or under heating, or a nozzle seems to ever hit the right temperature.  You will waste far more time than the time needed to order and receive the proper heaters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;If you must...&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;IF you were trying to proceed with some testing, change the 24V supply to 12V.  The stepper motors will be a bit more sluggish, but the DC-to-DC converters will probably (maybe) work well enough to power the electronics.  Check your supply rails to be sure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;But don't.&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is better to wait, or find a local store to drive to and fetch them, or call a friend who may have spares.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You don't want the frustration, and uncertainty, and the possibility of doing something as a hack that causes other problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Order the right cartridges and wait for their arrival.&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;ps: Not to make this a shopping answer, but Amazon has &lt;a href=&quot;https://smile.amazon.com/Signswise-Reprap-Ceramic-Cartridge-Printer/dp/B00SUYVLYC/ref=sr_1_5?crid=1313U8U6SN4ET&amp;amp;keywords=24v%20heater%20cartridge&amp;amp;qid=1568644991&amp;amp;sprefix=24v%20heater%2Caps%2C130&amp;amp;sr=8-5&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;qty 5 cartridges, 24v 40w, qty 5 for $8&lt;/a&gt;.  Depending on where you are, you may be able to get these tomorrow and use them while waiting for the &quot;right&quot; ones to arrive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2082" LastActivityDate="2019-09-16T14:49:18.983" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11025" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-09-17T02:37:04.797" Score="1" ViewCount="231" Body="&lt;p&gt;On an Ender 3, the X, Y and extruder are not moving when using the prepare menu to move them. If I change the motherboard port for Y to the Z port, the Y moves fine, same goes for the other axis that are not working in their respective ports - so it's not the motor or the cable. What else could be wrong? I find it unlikely that 2/3 axis and extruder are all stopped working at the same time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have tried &quot;auto home&quot; but before anything moves it says &quot;Homing failed PRINTER HALTED Please reset&quot;. The y axis seems to have a light humming noise to it, but no movement at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Seems like all of the stop switches are being ignored. When I &quot;Home Z&quot; with any stop switch plugged into the Z-stop, it just continues along even when i trigger the stop manually. This eventually means it hits the end of the axis and just keeps hitting the end with a nasty vibrating sound. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It was working for about 6 months before all this and my old power supply popped, replaced the power supply and all this started. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have tried a pre-built marlin 1.1.9 firmware, then tried a self-built marlin 1.1.9 firmware that I followed a guide to do specifically for the Ender 3 and then flashed TH3D U1.R2.15 unified firmware using their instructions and still the problem persists through all firmwares&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18587" LastEditorUserId="18587" LastEditDate="2019-09-17T19:11:30.997" LastActivityDate="2019-09-17T19:11:30.997" Title="X / Y axis + Extruder not working on respective ports" Tags="|troubleshooting|creality-ender-3|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11026" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8474" CreationDate="2019-09-17T11:45:06.877" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Note that some of the other advice is general advice which is not applicable to the Adventurer 3.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Temperature control is somewhat limited on Adventurer 3. The maximum bed temperature is 100&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C. There is no &quot;glass bed&quot;.  My Adventurer 3 is struggling to get the bed temperature to 98&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C.  (The room temperature is 16&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C at the moment).  I'm using Blu Stik glue on the bed to hold the print. Another possible problem is loss of heat out the side when the filament reel cover is off.  The cover of mine is off because the reel of ABS does not fit in the bay.  I've seen designs for filament bay covers with a hole in them to feed the filament in on Thingiverse.  I'm considering building a box to put the printer in to keep the ambient temperature high. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13852" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-09-17T11:57:21.987" LastActivityDate="2019-09-17T11:57:21.987" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11027" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10907" CreationDate="2019-09-17T19:54:44.117" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here is what I found to be the easiest solution. Please use &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.robotrebels.org/gallery/16_08_07_17_7_42_19.jpeg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this image&lt;/a&gt; for reference. I recommend doing these instructions once from source, since a lot of things can go wrong,  then once everything works, go back and integrate them into your existing Marlin codebase.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Get some 5V &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B07M88JRFY&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;relays&lt;/a&gt; to run the infrared lamps. These relays take in a 5V digital signal from an arduino pin. When the arduino activates these pins, the lamps will turn on. Get a cardboard box, line it with aluminum foil, and attach a lamp to the top of it using a lamp switch. If you are going to do this NEVER leave the box unattended, as a relay can get fail especially when it gets warm (this happened to me). Dont cause a fire, make sure to keep it attended. Anyway, One wire for the lightbulb goes to &lt;code&gt;NO&lt;/code&gt; on the relay, the other goes to &lt;code&gt;D-&lt;/code&gt;. One wire from 120V power goes to &lt;code&gt;COM&lt;/code&gt;, the other also goes to &lt;code&gt;D-&lt;/code&gt;. The yellow &amp;quot;jumper&amp;quot; on the relay boards I posted goes between HIGH and the middle pin. These are pins on the relay, not the MKS GEN board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;On the MKS GEN board, we will be using the &lt;code&gt;X-MAX&lt;/code&gt; endstop as the digital pin to run the chamber. Wire the &lt;strong&gt;&lt;code&gt;5V&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; pin on &lt;code&gt;X-MAX&lt;/code&gt; to the &lt;code&gt;D+&lt;/code&gt; of the relay. Wire the &lt;strong&gt;&lt;code&gt;GND&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; pin to &lt;code&gt;D-&lt;/code&gt; of the relay with the two other wires there. Wire pin &lt;strong&gt;&lt;code&gt;D2&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; on the MKS GEN Board to &lt;code&gt;IN&lt;/code&gt; on the relay. &lt;strong&gt;Bold&lt;/strong&gt; means the pin is on the MKS GEN board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Clone the Marlin-2.0 repo: &lt;code&gt;git clone -b bugfix-2.0.x https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin.git&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;In Configuration.h, change TEMP_SENSOR_CHAMBER to 1 or 11 (depends on your thermistor, might be other values.) Since we will be using the board's second extruder thermistor as the thermistor in this example, change TEMP_SENSOR_1 to 0 for now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#define TEMP_SENSOR_0 1&#xA;#define TEMP_SENSOR_1 0&#xA;#define TEMP_SENSOR_2 0&#xA;#define TEMP_SENSOR_3 0&#xA;#define TEMP_SENSOR_4 0&#xA;#define TEMP_SENSOR_5 0&#xA;#define TEMP_SENSOR_BED 1&#xA;#define TEMP_SENSOR_CHAMBER 1&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol start=&quot;5&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;In the file src/pins/ramps/pins_RAMPS.h, add this line:&#xA;&lt;code&gt;#define TEMP_CHAMBER_PIN 15&lt;/code&gt;. Note that this is the thermistor&#xA;slot usually used for a second extruder. If you're already using&#xA;this thermistor for the second extruder and want to use a different&#xA;analog pin, see &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10891/weird-temperature-reading-using-thermistor-on-mks-gen-l-v1-0-aux-2-analog-pins&quot;&gt;this question&lt;/a&gt;. You'll need some resistors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Also, around line 95 in pins_RAMPS.h, change &lt;code&gt;X_MAX_PIN&lt;/code&gt; to use an unused pin. The number &lt;code&gt;4&lt;/code&gt; is good. If you don't do this, your Chamber's digital Pin will be always &amp;quot;on&amp;quot; by default. You want it off by default, then activated by the Marlin code.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;In Configuration_adv.h, change &lt;code&gt;//#define HEATED_CHAMBER_PIN 44&lt;/code&gt; to &lt;code&gt;#define HEATER_CHAMBER_PIN 2&lt;/code&gt; to use the &lt;code&gt;X_MAX&lt;/code&gt; endstop's digital pin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Upload...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Go into OctoPrint settings. Click Axes and Volume. Next to a checkbox for heated bed, there is a checkbox for heated chamber! Click that, and your chamber is active.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If some part is wrong (e.g. lamp doesn't go on because wire came loose on relay), debug that and keep working. Check the octoprint log to make sure the C value is shown.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Once everything works, generalize these solutions to your set-up (e.g. using multiple extruders).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10369" LastEditorUserId="10369" LastEditDate="2022-10-15T01:00:21.360" LastActivityDate="2022-10-15T01:00:21.360" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11028" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10844" CreationDate="2019-09-17T21:04:23.810" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can show the compile date and time during bootup by changing the constant STRING_SPLASH_LINE2 in Configuration.h:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#define STRING_SPLASH_LINE2 __DATE__ &quot; &quot; __TIME__&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18592" LastActivityDate="2019-09-17T21:04:23.810" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11029" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11030" CreationDate="2019-09-17T21:04:59.867" Score="4" ViewCount="14214" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have replaced the stock extruder on my Ender 3 with one of these:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wDmXL.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wDmXL.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;New Extruder&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The grip gear has a smaller diameter, so I calibrated the esteps as per the top google search: &lt;a href=&quot;https://all3dp.com/2/extruder-calibration-6-easy-steps-2/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Extruder Calibration – 6 Easy Steps to Calibrate Your Extruder...&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I set the esteps so that it's spot on with 100&amp;nbsp;mm of filament is used up when I ask it to extrude 100&amp;nbsp;mm, then during a print I get the occasional skip on the extruder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I dial it back a bit and set it so that it extrudes 90&amp;nbsp;mm of filament when I ask it to extrude 100&amp;nbsp;mm, then I don't get the skips.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In both cases the print looks normal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've tried changing the nozzle as well in case there was some blockage, but it doesn't make a difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I just go with the under extrusion? or is these likely to be some other problem that isn't apparent?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I didn't notice any issues with the stock extruder and the stock estep setting, but I didn't think to check the calibration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15159" LastActivityDate="2021-07-31T00:04:39.043" Title="Calibrated Esteps Causes Extruder Skipping" Tags="|extruder|creality-ender-3|calibration|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11030" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11029" CreationDate="2019-09-17T21:23:09.387" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Consider that the extruder is skipping because it is unable to push filament at the rate you are requesting. By reducing the steps to ninety percent, you are reducing the rate by that much as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Typically, a skipping extruder is an indication of clogging, but it does not have to be clogging caused by particulates jamming the nozzle. At higher rates of filament travel, one needs higher temperatures to compensate for the cooling at those higher rates.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Consider to reduce the print speed to ninety percent of the current figure, or raise the nozzle temperature by five to ten degrees (in steps) to see if you'll get rid of the cold blocking that may be causing this problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastActivityDate="2019-09-17T21:23:09.387" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11031" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11018" CreationDate="2019-09-18T00:15:18.093" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have enough screw length exposed, clamp onto them via a 2-piece 'nut' that is itself bolted together via fasteners that run perpendicular to the screws.  You can then fasten whatever to the 'nut' and maybe even hide the gaggle of fasteners that results.  Another alternative for applying the clamping forces needed might be something based off a &quot;toggle wing nut.&quot;  I do not believe you will get good results via 1-piece print solutions the way the screws are.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Loads and nut material will determing how much screw you need inside the 'nut.' The more length you have to work with on top of that, the more room you have to hold the screws' rear ends w/ pliers/vice grip while getting your 'nut' on there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't have enough length, you will just have to use a different method of attaching to the door.  Options may include adhesives and/or modifying the actual door - pretty annoying if you can't take it apart.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18593" LastActivityDate="2019-09-18T00:15:18.093" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11032" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-09-18T04:13:36.620" Score="1" ViewCount="32" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I purchased a ready-made z-axis. There are four holes for 6&amp;nbsp;mm screws. Two pairs of holes are 100&amp;nbsp;mm apart, with each pair of screw mounts 20&amp;nbsp;mm apart from each other. Basically, think rectangle with four mounting points on the short edges.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to make a 19 inch by 19 inch build platform. Turns out, two 45&amp;nbsp;mm T-slotted aluminum extrusions fit pretty nicely in the gap between the screw mounting points. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Questions&lt;/strong&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How should I go about making a build platform for my Z-axis? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is there a best practice for designing these or a place to buy parts?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18596" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-09-19T06:46:43.737" LastActivityDate="2019-09-19T06:46:43.737" Title="Large SLA Build Plate" Tags="|z-axis|build-plate|sla|dlp|resin|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11033" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11029" CreationDate="2019-09-18T06:10:40.497" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have followed that guide, you have extruded the 100&amp;nbsp;mm through the heated nozzle.&#xA;This results in your steps/mm value to also be influenced by hot end temperature, speed during the extrusion test, and potentially pressure on the extruder grip gear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Try recalibrating your extruder, but this time, disconnect the Bowden tube either at the hot end, or at the extruder.&#xA;Once you have the steps/mm set to something &lt;em&gt;only&lt;/em&gt; related to the mechanics of the extruder, you can calibrate your flow rate - which you should usually do per filament type and even spool individually.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13171" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-09-18T08:49:54.263" LastActivityDate="2019-09-18T08:49:54.263" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11034" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10972" CreationDate="2019-09-18T07:08:04.043" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a free ebook that I have perused briefly which it looks interesting, and it is free (did I say that already?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.mdpi.com/books/pdfview/book/384&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;3D Printing of metals&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Manoj Gupta&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;ISBN 978-3-03842-591-5 (Pbk); &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;ISBN 978-3-03842-592-2 (PDF)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Three other books that &lt;em&gt;might&lt;/em&gt; be of interest are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.designnews.com/materials-assembly/free-e-book-3d-printing-metals-design-engineers-explained/200976711359482&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;3D Printing with Metals for Design Engineers, Explained&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ann R. Thryft&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Downloadable free ebook, but some sort of sign up is required&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.springer.com/gp/book/9783319551272&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Additive Manufacturing of Metals: The Technology, Materials, Design and Production&lt;/a&gt;, &#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Yang, L., Hsu, K., Baughman, B., Godfrey, D., Medina, F., Menon, M., Wiener, S. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;ISBN 978-3-319-55128-9&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/3319582046&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Additive Manufacturing of Metals: From Fundamental Technology to Rocket Nozzles, Medical Implants, and Custom Jewelry (Springer Series in Materials Science)&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Although, as the title contains a (rather obvious) mis-spelling, it does not bode well for the rest of the book.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;John O. Milewski&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;ISBN-13: 978-3319582047&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;ISBN-10: 3319582046&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4762" LastActivityDate="2019-09-18T07:08:04.043" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11036" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11029" CreationDate="2019-09-18T15:32:55.543" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Let's set up the basics of extrusion and then go over what has effects on the results of calibration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's discuss the extruder as an item on itself first, then look into how the nozzle and filaments impact it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Extruder&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The extruder basically is a spinning motor that pushes along filament at some extrusion rate &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$e_r [\frac{\text{mm}}{\text{step}}]$&lt;/span&gt; and it's related factor &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$s_e [\frac{\text{step}}{\text{mm}}]=\frac 1 {e_r}$&lt;/span&gt; via a hobbed gear - or in the case of this extruder via a pair of synchronous hobbed gears. The motor in an Ender 3 is a typical NEMA17 with &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$s=1.8\ \frac{\text{deg}}{\text{step}}$&lt;/span&gt; (and up to 16 micosteps&lt;sup&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/10988/8884&quot;&gt;see here&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;). It spins a hobbed gear, which has an outer diameter &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$d_o$&lt;/span&gt;, and the teeth are cut to a depth that generates the inner diameter &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$d_i$&lt;/span&gt;. Somewhere between these diameters is the &lt;em&gt;effective&lt;/em&gt; diameter &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$d_e$&lt;/span&gt;. So, using basic geometry we get:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$e_r=\frac{C_e\times s}{360°}=C_e\times0.005\frac 1 {\text{step}}$&lt;/span&gt; wherein &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$C_e=\pi d_e$&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$s_e=\frac {0.005\ \text{steps}}{C_e}$&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Filament effects&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, that we know the theoretical setting of mm/step or steps/mm (&lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$e_r$&lt;/span&gt; and &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$s_e$&lt;/span&gt;) for the firmware, we need to discuss how the filament impacts this. First of all, the calculation above holds only true for pushing even thickness filament that the teeth bite in evenly. If the filament does change in thickness, the effective diameter of our gear changes, and as a result, the extrusion changes. A thicker diameter filament does not get dug in as deep, the effective diameter goes up, and thus the circumference &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$C_e$&lt;/span&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Similarly, different filaments do have different hardnesses.&lt;sup&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/8396/8884&quot;&gt;see also here&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt; A test on hardness was done for &lt;a href=&quot;https://docs.lib.purdue.edu/cgi/viewcontent.cgi?article=1026&amp;amp;context=aseeil-insectionconference&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this paper&lt;/a&gt;, exploring Type A and Type D Shore hardness. Type A is a flat tip, while D is a sharp tip. The last is somewhat similar in the effect to the hobbed gear. The difference means that the teeth don't bite the same, affecting the effective diameter of the hobbed gear &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$d_e$&lt;/span&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This behavior is &lt;strong&gt;filament dependant&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Nozzle behavior&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The next part we have to look at is the behavior in the hotend and nozzle. In perfect conditions, the heat zone would melt up the filament fully and ensure a stable, laminar flow through the nozzle as it necks down the material from its starting diameter to the extrusion width.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming our filament stays laminar, then the flow of material in is exactly the same as the flow out, nothing stutters. But if the factors in the pipe are off, then we get turbulent flow.&lt;sup&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Laminar_flow&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;further reading&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, the flow is not necessarily linear, and we can easily identify several factors that impact the behavior in the nozzle. Let's do a quick rundown of different factors:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Materials do expand differently (with factor &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$\alpha$&lt;/span&gt;) under heating, thus impacting the volume of the material in the nozzle, which in turn impacts the volumetric flow rate and pressure in the nozzle. This is &lt;strong&gt;temperature&lt;/strong&gt; and &lt;strong&gt;material dependant&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;sup&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/8384/8884&quot;&gt;further on this&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The viscosity of the material has a huge impact on the flow behavior. Most plastics viscosities are &lt;strong&gt;temperature dependant&lt;/strong&gt; but also &lt;strong&gt;material dependant&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The nozzle shape can have an impact on the flow rate to a small degree (mainly if it is uneven or rough). The most influential factor, however, is the &lt;strong&gt;nozzle diameter&lt;/strong&gt;, which directly impacts flow rate.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;How all that effects flow in a nozzle&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's assume flow is ensured and that we can ignore friction of the nozzle on the material. Then we get the Freeman formula for Flow:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$Q=Av$&lt;/span&gt; where Q is the Volumetric Flow in 0.001 m³/s, A the area of the nozzle in m², v is the velocity at the exit in m/s.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$A=r^2\pi$&lt;/span&gt; is the well known circle formula, r is the nozzle radius, which is half the nozzle diameter&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;&lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$\ \ \ A_{0.4\text{ mm Nozzle}}=1.256\times10^{-7}\text{ m}^2$&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$v=\sqrt{2P}$&lt;/span&gt; is the Bernoulli's Equation, telling us that the flow velocity is pressure dependant (see Nozzle Behavior point 1). As a result, we get that the volumetric flow through our nozzle depends on the pressure like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$Q=\sqrt 2 \pi\times r\times\sqrt P$&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;&lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$\ \ \ Q_{0.4\text{ mm Nozzle}}=1.777\times10^{-7}\text{ m}^2\times\sqrt{P}$&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The pressure in the nozzle is the sum of the pressure generated by the force with which the material is pushed in by the extruder (&lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$P_F=F/A'$&lt;/span&gt;) and the material expansion in the nozzle (&lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$P_e$&lt;/span&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As we established up in the Extruder part, the extrusion rate is somewhat dependent on the effective diameter of the hobbed gear &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$d_e$&lt;/span&gt;. The effective diameter of the hobbed gear also has an effect on the pressure in the nozzle: how deep the teeth cut into the filament determines the force they transmit. The other factor that impacts the force transmitted via the filament is the extrusion speed &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$v_e$&lt;/span&gt;, thus we write &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$F(d_e,v_e)$&lt;/span&gt;. Atop that, the actual filament diameter &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$A'$&lt;/span&gt; plays another factor, as explored under filament effects. The thermal expansion, which is dependant on the material coefficient &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$\alpha$&lt;/span&gt; and the Temperature increase &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$\Delta T$&lt;/span&gt; adds to the pressure in the nozzle, thus we write &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$P_e(\alpha,\Delta T)$&lt;/span&gt;. So the expression for the volumetric flow out of the nozzle is&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$Q=\sqrt 2 \times r \pi \times\sqrt {\frac{F(d_e,v_e)}{A'}+P_e(\alpha,\Delta T)}$&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this flow is laminar and non-turbulent could be read from the accompanying Reynolds number &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$Re$&lt;/span&gt;, which is dependant on the (dynamic/kinematic) viscosity &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$\mu=\frac \nu \rho$&lt;/span&gt; (rho is the density). Viscosity is temperature dependant, thus we write &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$\nu(T)$&lt;/span&gt;. Last factor in the formula for the Reynolds number is the hydraulic diameter &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$D_H$&lt;/span&gt;, which for our case boils down to the diameter of the nozzle, so &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$D_H=2r$&lt;/span&gt;. For our case this gives:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$Re=\frac{2r\times Q}{2 r^2 \pi \times \nu(T)}=\frac Q {r \pi \times \nu(T)}=\frac {\sqrt 2}{\nu(T)} \sqrt {\frac{F(d_e,v_e)}{A'}+P_e(\alpha,\Delta T)}$&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;tl;dr / Conclusion&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ok, the theory is all nice, but how does all that affect our print?!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It's a good idea to calibrate for one material and use that as your benchmark and then create profiles for your other materials measured against this benchmark&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If our temperature is lower or higher than in calibration, the flow is different and, as a result, the extruder-steps don't match up. Instead of altering the steps, we should &lt;strong&gt;adjust&lt;/strong&gt; the volumetric flow value up or down to match to the particular material. Usually, it is called either &lt;code&gt;Flow&lt;/code&gt; or &lt;code&gt;extrusion multiplier&lt;/code&gt; in the software. In the calculations above it is &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$Q$&lt;/span&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A different material or material mix (like a new color or different brand) has a different thermal expansion, thus we &lt;strong&gt;adjust&lt;/strong&gt; the &lt;code&gt;flow&lt;/code&gt;/&lt;code&gt;extrusion multiplier&lt;/code&gt; in our profile as needed.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If we swap the nozzle, we get a different flow characteristic. Most of the flow calculations for such change is already done in the slicer, we usually don't need to alter the profile further, but tiny changes could be done by adjusting the &lt;code&gt;flow&lt;/code&gt;/&lt;code&gt;extrusion multiplier&lt;/code&gt; value.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;extruder clicking can show over extrusion, but it &lt;strong&gt;also&lt;/strong&gt; can show that the print height is not achieved as it is calculated for and point to errors in &lt;strong&gt;bed leveling&lt;/strong&gt; if happening in the first layer(s) and to errors in the &lt;strong&gt;z-Axis&lt;/strong&gt; if it happens later in the print.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:29:41.667" LastActivityDate="2019-09-18T16:10:25.003" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11037" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5067" CreationDate="2019-09-18T18:14:09.683" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Bubbles are a defect.  Two problems can occur:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The air in the bubble will be under pressure when heated and can cause a little blow-out when the plastic sides of the bubble are soft enough that they can no longer contain the pressure.  Depending on where this happens, it can either result in little spatters of filament being spit through the nozzle at the printed object, expanded craters which could increase the diameter of the filament and make extrusion more difficult, or, if at the end of a print job, the expanded filament may cool and be too large diameter to feed for the next print job.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If the air escapes without causing any other problem or it was created by cavitation, the volume of the bubble causes under extrusion, since it represents missing plastic.  The extrusion volume is controlled by driving a specific linear distance of filament and assuming a specific filament diameter and 100% plastic.  Underextrusion hurts print quality, print strength, and surface finish.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bubbles in the filament indicate a failure in the filament manufactury.  As @Granny said in the comment, this is defective filament which should be returned for a refund.  If you use it, understand that it will not give results that are the best your printer can deliver.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2082" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2019-09-18T19:49:54.570" LastActivityDate="2019-09-18T19:49:54.570" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11038" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11052" CreationDate="2019-09-19T01:26:06.760" Score="2" ViewCount="5077" Body="&lt;p&gt;Contrary to a lot of other corner related problems (where the corners are bulging), I seem to have a different problem where the corners (ONLY) seem to stick out and appear blobby in the x/y plane. This only happens for corners/edges with a fillet radius greater than 3-4mm and only in the x/y plane. Anything smaller than that radius (such a sharp corner/edge) seems to be fine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas what could be causing this? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Conditions&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;CR-10s&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ultimaker Cura v4.2.1&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Material: ABS &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Nozzle size: 0.4mm &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bed temp: 80&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C (I can't go any higher than this) &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Nozzle temp: 250&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What I've tried already&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;increasing nozzle temp from 240 to 250&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C (seemed to help slightly?) &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;reduced flow rate from 100&amp;nbsp;% to 80&amp;nbsp;% - had a negative effect on overall print quality &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank in advance for any ideas/suggestions&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8Y91W.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8Y91W.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;blobby corners&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6eWVc.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6eWVc.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;more blobby corners&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18605" LastEditorUserId="18605" LastEditDate="2019-09-19T05:53:04.420" LastActivityDate="2023-08-04T08:56:33.337" Title="What causes these blobby corners" Tags="|print-quality|ultimaker-cura|calibration|abs|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11039" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11038" CreationDate="2019-09-19T03:14:01.080" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;150 °C is way too low for pretty much any material commonly used in 3D printing, especially ABS. I'm quite surprised anything comes out of the nozzle at all rather than just griding in the extruder gear. Most ABS filament manufacturers recommend a nozzle temperature in the range 210-250 °C. From your images, it looks like you have a lot of serious extrusion problems aside from the corners that should all go away if you print with the right temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2019-09-19T03:14:01.080" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11040" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-09-19T06:26:35.177" Score="1" ViewCount="197" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently bought a Kelant s400 LCD DLP 3D printer. I am using Wanhao resin (green) to print, using the recommended settings from Wanhao. I was printing a hollowed out cube as a test and it printed fairly ok, except one corner didn't print. Please see the attached photo. Turns out the corner stuck to the transparent sheet and not the rest of the print (base layers printed fine). Why would this happen and what can I do to prevent it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YSDXT.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YSDXT.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18607" LastActivityDate="2019-09-19T11:32:10.897" Title="Resin burns to transparent sheet" Tags="|print-quality|wanhao|resin|print-failure|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11041" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-09-19T07:05:19.023" Score="0" ViewCount="74" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm transforming my Anet A8 printer to Raspberry Pi driven using &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/Nikolay-Kha/PyCNC&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;PyCNC&lt;/a&gt;. Things seem to look promising so far apart from the Z motor doing nothing but making screaming-like sound when supposed to be moving (In &lt;code&gt;pycnc&lt;/code&gt; enter command &lt;code&gt;z10&lt;/code&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was playing with the &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/Nikolay-Kha/PyCNC/blob/master/cnc/config.py&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;config&lt;/a&gt;, changed the Z related velocity and step values. Didn't see any difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I start &lt;code&gt;pycnc&lt;/code&gt; and enter command &lt;code&gt;g28&lt;/code&gt; (all axis home) the Z needs some help... &lt;a href=&quot;https://photos.app.goo.gl/YuCuJ44ojv6wtaqF8&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Here is a video.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has anyone got experience in PyCNC? Or any idea?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18608" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-09-19T08:06:55.723" LastActivityDate="2019-09-19T08:06:55.723" Title="PyCNC - Z steppers screaming" Tags="|anet-a8|stepper|raspberry-pi|python|pycnc|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11042" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11040" CreationDate="2019-09-19T11:32:10.897" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The first thing to check is the transparent sheet itself - are there any defects (rough patches, creases, grazes) in the area in which the print was stuck to the &quot;transparent sheet&quot;[1]. This will cause the newly cured layers to cling better to that sheet than they should in that area, and likely caused the failure.  If the sheet is marked in any way in that area, you likely need to replace it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This kind of failure happens when the forces holding the newly cured layer to the transparent sheet are weaker than the forces holding the part together/to the build platform. These issues are usually to do with exposure settings - underexposed layers are less likely to bind together well and more likely to fail. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since the majority of your part printed correctly, it looks as though your exposure settings are probably about right.  If there are no defects in your transparent film though, there may be unevenness to the spread of light across your LCD that means some areas on the build area cure less well than others. You don't mention what slicing software you are using, but many slicers allow for a 'greyscale mask' that can compensate for this by making the image displayed on the LCD screen less transparent in the areas that the UV output is stronger so that the weaker areas can catch up.  Note that after applying such a mask, you may need to alter your layer cure times to compensate.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[1] This transparent sheet is likely FEP film - essentially transparent flexible teflon,  though I can't actually find that specified in the product details for this model of printer&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12718" LastActivityDate="2019-09-19T11:32:10.897" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11043" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11044" CreationDate="2019-09-19T13:49:20.723" Score="7" ViewCount="8926" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Thermal conductivity&lt;/strong&gt; is how well a plastic conducts heat. Most plastics don't conduct heat very well at all, which is what allows them to be 3D printed. That being said, there are a lot of potential use cases for highly thermally conductive filament, assuming you could print them. A commonly discussed one is computer heatsinks. Similar heatsinks could also be used for stepper motors and extruders in 3d printing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To get a good picture which plastics are useful in such an application (like mentioned in question: &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10881/water-cooling-stepper-motor-with-aluminum-block&quot;&gt;Water-cooling stepper motor with aluminum block&lt;/a&gt;&quot;), I need to know what is the thermal conductivity of the commonly used thermoplastics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10369" LastEditorUserId="10369" LastEditDate="2020-05-19T23:20:57.317" LastActivityDate="2020-05-19T23:20:57.317" Title="What is the thermal conductivity of various 3D printing filaments?" Tags="|filament|filament-choice|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11044" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11043" CreationDate="2019-09-19T13:49:20.723" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;All values are in W/(m*K).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;PLA: 0.13&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;HIPS: 0.20&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;ABS: 0.25&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;PETG: 0.29&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;PEEK: 0.25&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;PLA with copper: 0.25 (&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.3dhubs.com/talk/t/thermal-conductivity-of-copper-based-filament-and-ceramic-resin/8798/7&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;see discussion&lt;/a&gt;) &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;PETG with 40% graphite: 1.70 (ansiotropic)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://tcpoly.com/products/filaments/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;TCPoly&lt;/a&gt;: 15&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Steel (not a 3dprintable plastic): 10 - 50&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YOsQZ.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YOsQZ.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DmOFV.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DmOFV.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10369" LastActivityDate="2019-09-19T13:49:20.723" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11045" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-09-19T15:09:36.123" Score="1" ViewCount="181" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have replaced the main board of my Anet A8 printer with a Raspberry Pi based one, running &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/Nikolay-Kha/PyCNC&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;PyCNC&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After many issues I have finally got to a point where all the motors work as well as heating and sensors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However I am unable to print due to the E motor seems to run too much. How can I figure out what values should go to the &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/Nikolay-Kha/PyCNC/blob/master/cnc/config.py&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;config&lt;/a&gt; of PyCNC? I use Cura, maybe a different slicer/gcode format needs to be chosen? Thanks!!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;# Maximum velocity for each axis in millimeter per minute.&#xA;MAX_VELOCITY_MM_PER_MIN_X = 3000&#xA;MAX_VELOCITY_MM_PER_MIN_Y = 3000&#xA;MAX_VELOCITY_MM_PER_MIN_Z = 300&#xA;MAX_VELOCITY_MM_PER_MIN_E = 150&#xA;MIN_VELOCITY_MM_PER_MIN = 1&#xA;&#xA;# Average velocity for endstop calibration procedure&#xA;CALIBRATION_VELOCITY_MM_PER_MIN = 300&#xA;&#xA;# Stepper motors steps per millimeter for each axis.&#xA;STEPPER_PULSES_PER_MM_X = 50&#xA;STEPPER_PULSES_PER_MM_Y = 50&#xA;STEPPER_PULSES_PER_MM_Z = 50&#xA;STEPPER_PULSES_PER_MM_E = 15&#xA;&#xA;# Mixed settings.&#xA;STEPPER_PULSE_LENGTH_US = 2&#xA;STEPPER_MAX_ACCELERATION_MM_PER_S2 = 3000  # for all axis, mm per sec^2&#xA;SPINDLE_MAX_RPM = 10000&#xA;EXTRUDER_MAX_TEMPERATURE = 250&#xA;BED_MAX_TEMPERATURE = 100&#xA;MIN_TEMPERATURE = 40&#xA;EXTRUDER_PID = {&quot;P&quot;: 0.059161177519,&#xA;                &quot;I&quot;: 0.00206217171374,&#xA;                &quot;D&quot;: 0.206217171374}&#xA;BED_PID = {&quot;P&quot;: 0.226740848076,&#xA;        &quot;I&quot;: 0.00323956215053,&#xA;        &quot;D&quot;: 0.323956215053}&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Update: None of the motors work properly. When I try to print a gcode file the motors travel too much an too fast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18608" LastEditorUserId="18608" LastEditDate="2019-09-20T09:30:14.233" LastActivityDate="2019-09-20T09:30:14.233" Title="PyCNC - How to configure for my setup?" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|anet-a8|raspberry-pi|pycnc|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11046" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11098" CreationDate="2019-09-19T22:37:23.797" Score="5" ViewCount="837" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am trying to configure Marlin for a Ramps 1.6 board. I have an I2C 4x20 character LCD enabled. I have the LCD working with &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#define LCD_SAINSMART_I2C_2004&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a separate encoder, with push button, but I can't find where to enable it. It seems that combo display-encoder-buzzer boards are enabled as a set. Some common name, like the define I used for the display. But I can't find any useful information that includes a I2C LCD with an encoder. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm looking for a configuration that would enable my LCD and encoder, or just some way to enable the encoder by itself. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For some configurations I found the following. But when I connect my encoder to those pins nothing happens when I try it. So I think I need to enable them somewhere. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;//encoder pins  &#xA;#define BTN_EN1 31 &#xA;#define BTN_EN2 33  &#xA;#define BTN_ENC 35&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12610" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2019-09-29T17:57:52.167" LastActivityDate="2019-09-29T17:58:31.733" Title="Where to enable user interface encoder in Marlin?" Tags="|marlin|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11047" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-09-19T23:53:02.997" Score="4" ViewCount="1498" Body="&lt;p&gt;I realized while playing around with 3D printed gears that it would be easy to make a 3D printed herringbone-style timing belt and matching gears/pulleys. Would such a design have any advantages over typical GT2 timing belts used in 3D printers? I figure the belt contact around the gear/pulley is sufficient that it doesn't make a big difference to smooth transfer of force like it does with meshing gears, but it would prevent lateral movement of the belt. Are there other advantages (or disadvantages)? I would assume it's harder to produce the belt with conventional manufacturing techniques, but of course it's easy to produce with a 3D printer and TPU or other flexible material.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2019-09-20T00:49:25.537" Title="Herringbone timing belt?" Tags="|printer-building|mechanics|belt|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11048" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11047" CreationDate="2019-09-20T00:49:25.537" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;At a nearly microscopic level, the herringbone belt/gear combination will reduce the whoosh effect of a square profile cogged belt forcing itself into a matching profile pulley. Consider a well-sealed drawer or similar shape. Push it into the cabinet at maximum speed and force and the air is going to have a difficult time exiting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By the design of the herringbone belt, the teeth on the belt are eased into the groove in what amounts to a diagonal motion. This permits the air to be exhausted in a less-abrupt manner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is part of the concept of &lt;a href=&quot;https://sitspa.com/timing-belt-drives/timing-belt-drives-silent-sync-eagle/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Goodyear Eagle belt systems&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Part of the sales pitch is quiet, another part is precision, which I expect falls into the self-centering aspect of the design. Yet another described characteristic is reduced vibration, certainly valuable in the 3D printer world.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've had no luck getting email communications from the manufacturers regarding this type of drive system, but found that commercially available belts and pulleys do not go below a rather large diameter, making that aspect unsuitable for 3D printing. The belts are also high-load capable, very stiff and also quite wide.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You would not want to use TPU or other flexible filament (perhaps &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.matterhackers.com/store/c/dow-evolve3d-obc-3d-printer-filament&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;obc&lt;/a&gt;?)* unless you could be assured of minimal stretch. Any stretching of the belt would inject too many problems into the printer to compensate in practical terms.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PpdEc.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PpdEc.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;silent sync belt and pulley&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*From MatterHackers web site: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;OBC (Olefin Block Copolymer) 3D printing filament from Dow Chemical is&#xA;  a breakthrough material that is both flexible when printed thin and&#xA;  rigid when printed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As an anecdote, I desired to replace the x-axis belt on my laser cutter with a Silent Sync system. It is believed on at least one laser-cutter forum that the GT style belts cause oscillation which appears when engraving. I had hoped to discover that the Silent Sync belts and pulleys would solve this problem, but the lack of communications with the manufacturer threw a wrench in the works. It's unlikely that I can 3D print a 2.5 meter long segment of belt, as I don't own a White Knight printer, but it's interesting to think that OBC filament might do the job well enough. Too much experimentation, however.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastActivityDate="2019-09-20T00:49:25.537" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11049" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5544" CreationDate="2019-09-20T00:57:44.790" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Converting mesh files to solid formats is a complex task.&#xA;While converting files from mesh to solid you should look for accuracy, number of patches, nurbs pattern, file size and many other variables that should be taken in consideration based on the use you will give for the solid file.&#xA;I have compiled some thoughts as a starting point for your research. Make sure your STL/OBJ/PLY (mesh) file has a decent quality. You can use free software to validate your file such as Meshmixer and MeshLab.&#xA;You will CONSIDERABLY increase your chances by having a watertight model. If the model does not have a closed mesh, you will most likely have a hard time/fail converting it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are 4 ways to do it:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1 – Using a free software&#xA;This is a valid solution for a simple shape models.&#xA;The best tutorials are posted here on GrabCAD.&#xA;Here are some tutorials available on internet:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://grabcad.com/tutorials/how-do-i-convert-stl-graphics-to-a-solid-model&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://grabcad.com/tutorials/how-do-i-convert-stl-graphics-to-a-solid-model&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;Convert STL (or OBJ) Mesh to SOLIDWORKS Model (NURBS)&#xA;How to convert STL to STEP using FreeCAD&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://blog.bantamtools.com/convert-stl-to-step&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://blog.bantamtools.com/convert-stl-to-step&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2 - Professional software solution&#xA;This is probably the best solution for companies with a high conversion volume on CAD/CAM demand.&#xA;Some of these companies offer a free software version for students.&#xA;The best solutions I have found:&#xA;- 3D Systems Geomagic Wrap&#xA;- Fusion 360&#xA;- Power Surfacing (SolidWorks plugin)&#xA;- TransMagic&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3 - Hiring a professional freelancer&#xA;This is the best option for a one-time project, higher chance to get a decent converted file for an affordable price. Try to look for the feedback/customer review before hiring someone.&#xA;I have seen professionals charging as cheap as US$25 per model/conversion.&#xA;You can check on these options (there are many others):&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.upwork.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.upwork.com&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.fiverr.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.fiverr.com&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.freelancer.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.freelancer.com&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;4 - Online conversion platform&#xA;There are solutions with instant delivery/conversion, and others that take some hours to send you the file. I found solutions varying from free online conversion to pricy service.&#xA;There are prices as low as US$1 per model/conversion.&#xA;You may need to do some touch up on the files converted from automated platform before you send it to a CNC or other CAD/CAM machine.&#xA;You can check on these platforms:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://cadmesh.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://cadmesh.com&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.convertcadfiles.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.convertcadfiles.com/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Have in mind that, the higher is the model complexity (shape) the harder is to convert the model.&#xA;If trying to convert a 3D scanned model, make sure to have a closed mesh and a high-density mesh definition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;During your Google research, you can also use the term “model surfacing”.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18614" LastActivityDate="2019-09-20T00:57:44.790" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11050" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="948" CreationDate="2019-09-20T01:17:25.420" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are solutions with instant delivery/conversion, and others that take some hours to send you the file. &#xA;I found solutions varying from free online conversion to pricey service.&#xA;You may need to do some touch up on the files converted from automated platform before you send it to a CNC or other CAD/CAM machine.&#xA;You can check on these platforms:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://cadmesh.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://cadmesh.com&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.convertcadfiles.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.convertcadfiles.com/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Have in mind that, the higher is the model complexity (shape) the harder is to convert the model.&#xA;If trying to convert a 3D scanned model, make sure to have a closed mesh and a high-density mesh definition.&#xA;Good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18614" LastActivityDate="2019-09-20T01:17:25.420" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11051" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11054" CreationDate="2019-09-20T02:17:29.713" Score="1" ViewCount="2480" Body="&lt;p&gt;In &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/q/10868/11157&quot;&gt;Finishing sunken text in 3D prints&lt;/a&gt;, I found that nail polish works great for filling sunken lettering in 3D-printed parts, but the procedure for using it requires removing the excess from the non-sunken surface using nail polish remover. For PLA, acetone works fine, but with ABS the acetone will obviously dissolve the ABS too (and from my experience trying to get polish off plastic toys made of ABS, it mixes the polish with the ABS really nastily in the process).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there an alternate nail polish remover that's suitable for use on ABS? Ethyl acetate based ones, maybe?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2019-09-21T16:07:59.150" Title="Nail polish remover that won't dissolve ABS?" Tags="|abs|print-material|post-processing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11052" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11038" CreationDate="2019-09-20T03:39:37.263" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I suspect you are printing through a usb or network connection,  and the communication rate it's to slow for any of many reasons.   A curve consists of many tiny linear movements,  each requiring a command exchange between the PC and printer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can,  try printing from an sd card plugged into the printer (I'd the printer is so equipped).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This could be worse if the uses a Bowden extruder,  since there is now compression and windup in the filament. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2082" LastActivityDate="2019-09-20T03:39:37.263" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11053" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6618" CreationDate="2019-09-20T10:07:41.400" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://La%20solution%20propos%C3%A9e%20dans%20la%20revendication%201%20de%20la%20pr%C3%A9sente%20demande%20ne%20peut%20%C3%AAtre%20consid%C3%A9r%C3%A9e%20comme%20impliquant%20une%20activit%C3%A9%20inventive%20pour%20les%20motifs%20suivants:%2050%20Ohm%20repr%C3%A9sente%20la%20valeur%20ordinaire%20de%20l&amp;#39;imp%C3%A9dance%20des%20dispositifs%20de%20mesure,%20voir%20D3%20[alin%C3%A9a%2083].%20L&amp;#39;homme%20du%20m%C3%A9tier%20utiliserait%20cette%20valeur%20sans%20faire%20preuve%20d&amp;#39;esprit%20inventif.&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Young modulus&lt;/a&gt; of &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.designerdata.nl/plastics/thermo+plastics/PTFE?cookie=YES&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;PTFE&lt;/a&gt; is about 500&amp;nbsp;MPa and the surface of a PTFE tube for 1.75&amp;nbsp;mm filament is about 9.4&amp;nbsp;mm&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Young modulus of &lt;a href=&quot;https://aip.scitation.org/doi/pdf/10.1063/1.4918424&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;PLA&lt;/a&gt; is variable, between 350 and 2800&amp;nbsp;MPa, let's say 2000&amp;nbsp;MPa. The filament surface is 2.4&amp;nbsp;mm&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The ratio is about 1 because the surface ratio is 4x and the Young's modulus ratio 1/4x. As result, the stretching of PTFE is about similar to the compression of PLA inside it (of course they sum, since they go in opposite directions). PLA is very stiff: other materials will compress much more and make the stretching of PTFE less relevant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However the filament is thinner than the tube, so it will curl a bit, which increases its contraction much more! It is likely that even for PLA the stretching of the PTFE is much less relevant than the compression of the filament.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.azom.com/properties.aspx?ArticleID=764&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;fiberglass&lt;/a&gt; has a Young's modulus of about 80&amp;nbsp;GPa (150 times PTFE), but its thickness is what? 0.1&amp;nbsp;mm? That bring a surface of 2&amp;nbsp;mm&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; at most (and I'm very optimistic, more likely much less than 1&amp;nbsp;mm&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;). Fiberglass helps to strengthen PTFE by a factor of surely less than 30, more likely 10 or less (will the glue hold or slide?).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As result, PTFE, from a contribution to the overall stretching/compression of 50&amp;nbsp;% (in fact, much less due to curling), will be reduced to about 5&amp;nbsp;%. It is good, but this is an optimistic value.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2338" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-09-23T10:20:06.350" LastActivityDate="2019-09-23T10:20:06.350" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11054" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11051" CreationDate="2019-09-20T10:38:31.283" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;First of all, Nail Polish comes in 2 types: Acetone based, and acetone-free. The latter is based on Ethyl Acetate filled up with alcohol and water. Sadly, Ethyl Acetate also dissolves ABS, so it is not an option. However, the acetone-free nail polish remover can be used to smooth PLA to some degree. Anyhow, we look for something that is putting Nail polish into solution but not ABS, so it can neither be among the able ketones (like acetone), nor an acetate ester, nor be aniline.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next up, Turpentine. Turpentine is a crazy mix of chemicals that we know to be able to turn most glues to goop and remove nail polish too. Sadly, Turpentine too can dissolve ABS, and it has been used in this fashion to create ABS Slurry/Cement as a bonding agent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But what do we actually have in nail polish that needs to be put in solution? Well, to a good part, most nail polishes are a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.compoundchem.com/2017/04/06/nail-polish/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Nitrocellulose&lt;/a&gt; lacquer. To keep it in solution, Ethyl Acetate (already ruled out) and Butyl Acetate are used. Sadly, that is an acetate ester, so nope, no gains here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, we are left with one way: &lt;strong&gt;Mechanical removal&lt;/strong&gt;. Nail polish is known to bond quite ok, but conventional nail polish lacquer (not the gel stuff) also is known to chip, and we can use that. Letting the lacquer harden and then using a sharp knife o remove most of the surplus, then polishing it up to very fine 1000 grit sandpaper is a possible way to go without needing to open the chemical toolbox. For the last postprocessing step, very short exposure to acetone vapor should restore the surface and put it to shine, including the lacquer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Other fillers?&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An alternative might be other filler materials. For a white filling, white Valejo putty might work, which is an acrylic bound marble dust filler, which can be wiped away with a wet cloth. It doesn't shrink, so gives flat surfaces. It could be colored with other acrylic paints, but the base color is marble-white.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tamiya Basic Putty is based on Ethylbenzene and often used with ABS models as a gap filler. It is available in several colors. As a downside, it does shrink a little during bonding. Ethylbenzene is not a solvent but incidentally, the same stuff that is used for making ABS so should be safe for the model.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:29:41.667" LastActivityDate="2019-09-21T16:07:59.150" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11055" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10972" CreationDate="2019-09-20T13:07:05.830" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just wanted to add that ultimately you get a lot more quick practical knowledge from your machine's manufacturer or DMLS service provider so don't forget to look at publications from the industry leaders.  They have incentive to make sure you succeed when using their products.  Just beware the salesmanship.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example Stratasys:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.stratasysdirect.com/resources/design-guidelines/direct-metal-laser-sintering&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.stratasysdirect.com/resources/design-guidelines/direct-metal-laser-sintering&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I believe there's also a very similar guide from Xometry and others.  Gpi also had some good insights on some of the more exotic materials.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18593" LastActivityDate="2019-09-20T13:07:05.830" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11056" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11057" CreationDate="2019-09-21T07:49:01.270" Score="8" ViewCount="5495" Body="&lt;p&gt;Often, the pre-generated G-code is enough for start and end. However, sometimes we want to have something different. In this case: how to generate an audible alert of something like 4 bleeps at the end of the print, after putting the printer into the end position and when the bed has reached a &quot;safe&quot; 30 °C?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastActivityDate="2022-02-21T11:50:55.367" Title="Writing G-code: Audible Alert at end of print" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|g-code|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11057" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11056" CreationDate="2019-09-21T08:30:34.837" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Let's put the parts one by one:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wait for bed temperature being at 30 °C: &lt;code&gt;M190 R30&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Play Bleep for 1/5th of a second: &lt;code&gt;M300 S440 P200&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wait for 1/5th of a second: &lt;code&gt;G4 P200&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That gives:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;M190 R30&#xA;M140 S0&#xA;M300 S440 P200&#xA;G4 P200&#xA;M300 S440 P200&#xA;G4 P200&#xA;M300 S440 P200&#xA;G4 P200&#xA;M300 S440 P200&#xA;G4 P200&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just for 0scar:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;M300 S1396.91 P400 ;f7&#xA;G4 P400&#xA;M300 S1661.22 P600 ;as7&#xA;M300 S1396.91 P400 ;f7&#xA;M300 S1396.91 P200 ;f7&#xA;M300 S1864.66 P400 ;b7&#xA;M300 S1244.51 P400 ;es7&#xA;M300 S1396.91 P400 ;f7&#xA;G4 P400&#xA;M300 S2093.00 P400 ;c8&#xA;M300 S1396.91 P400 ;f7&#xA;M300 S1396.91 P200 ;f7&#xA;M300 S2217.46 P400 ;des8&#xA;M300 S2093.00 P400 ;c8&#xA;M300 S1661.22 P400 ;as7&#xA;M300 S1396.91 P400 ;f7&#xA;M300 S2093.00 P400 ;c8&#xA;M300 S2793.83 P400 ;f8&#xA;M300 S1244.51 P400 ;es7&#xA;M300 S1244.51 P200 ;es7&#xA;M300 S1046.50 P400 ;c7&#xA;M300 S1567.98 P400 ;g7&#xA;M300 S1396.91 P1600 ;f7&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2020-01-13T23:09:06.693" LastActivityDate="2020-01-13T23:09:06.693" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11058" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8136" CreationDate="2019-09-22T11:32:54.783" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I managed to get rid of the problem by installing a &lt;strong&gt;linear rail&lt;/strong&gt; for the y-axis!&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4LlUD.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4LlUD.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Used this mod from thingyverse: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3064275&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3064275&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are also solutions out there which are placing a linear rail on the left AND right side, but since for me the problem was only on the left side, this seemed sufficient (and was).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14426" LastActivityDate="2019-09-22T11:32:54.783" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11059" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-09-22T13:19:22.647" Score="2" ViewCount="460" Body="&lt;p&gt;The G-code sent from Octopi to my printer gets multiplied at the end of every row.&#xA;The corresponding code out of Simplify3D do not have that multiplication.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This results in a always Max speed print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1 month ago all worked perfect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Have anyone seen this problem before? How to solve?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/93rjl.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/93rjl.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18629" LastActivityDate="2019-09-23T02:34:53.150" Title="G-code commands gets multiplied by random number" Tags="|g-code|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2019-09-22T21:31:51.007" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11060" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11059" CreationDate="2019-09-22T21:05:12.507" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I believe that everything after the &quot;*&quot; is a comment.  From the random variation, I speculate that the comments for Octoprint are a check code.  For other host programs, it is a sequence number.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;@oscar linked to a previous answer in a comment which shows that it is a checksum.  I will need to check the next time I run Repetier Host, but that seemed to be a sequence number.  Please see Oscar's comment (and upvote it).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2082" LastEditorUserId="2082" LastEditDate="2019-09-23T02:34:53.150" LastActivityDate="2019-09-23T02:34:53.150" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11062" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-09-23T13:57:16.150" Score="2" ViewCount="156" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can someone point me out an appropriate entry code for this task in Marlin source code?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18635" LastActivityDate="2019-09-23T13:58:13.963" Title="Reprogram Marlin to assign endstop pins to arbitrary tasks [Arduino Mega]" Tags="|marlin|endstop|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11063" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11062" CreationDate="2019-09-23T13:58:13.963" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Apparently, given one &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;has already enabled &lt;code&gt;USE_&amp;lt;AXIS&amp;gt;_PLUG&lt;/code&gt; (for example &#xA;&lt;code&gt;&amp;lt;AXIS&amp;gt; = XMIN&lt;/code&gt;) in Marlin's &lt;code&gt;Configuration.h&lt;/code&gt;,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;one can add an additional &lt;code&gt;define&lt;/code&gt; (for example &lt;code&gt;&amp;lt;AXIS&amp;gt;_ENDSTOP_CUSTOM&lt;/code&gt;) in&#xA;&lt;code&gt;Configuration.h&lt;/code&gt; and &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;make this &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/blob/0110faa717e642574ade9eb7aed250ee2840e942/Marlin/endstops.cpp#L637&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;block&lt;/a&gt; the &lt;code&gt;else&lt;/code&gt; statement in an&#xA;&lt;code&gt;&amp;lt;AXIS&amp;gt;_ENDSTOP_CUSTOM&lt;/code&gt; existence check, with the positive case being your&#xA;arbitrary task.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The function that gets executed in the standard case in the linked block is &lt;code&gt;PROCESS_ENDSTOP&lt;/code&gt;, so cloning it would be a good starting point to make a &lt;code&gt;PROCESS_ENDSTOP_CUSTOM&lt;/code&gt; task, too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18635" LastActivityDate="2019-09-23T13:58:13.963" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11064" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-09-24T14:40:07.727" Score="2" ViewCount="1039" Body="&lt;p&gt;About the printer:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Prusa I3 MK3 [Sintron]&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Arduino Mega 2560 (just replaced)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Replaced LCD / Smart controller&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;FIRMWARE 3.8.0&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Steps I have already tried:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Replaced faulty Arduino&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Failed&lt;/strong&gt; to flash firmware with PrusaSlicer&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;avrdude-slic3r: Could not open port: /dev/cu.usbmodem1421&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Connected using Pronterface&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Replaced LCD Display / Smart Controller&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I replaced the Arduino on my I3 MK3 and have tried to flash firmware V 3.8.0. The AVRDUDE logs in Prusaslicer say the flash succeed. I haven't gotten any response from the printer. I also replaced the LCD display / Smart Interface to see if it was faulty. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The screen displays the same block-bar pattern. The heat bed starts to hear up, as well as the extruder tip, the extruder fan also runs. There is no response from the dial on the LCD display / interface. When I try to engage any of the stepper motors using Pronterface, nothing happens.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have also already read this &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6485/white-blocks-on-lcd-screen-after-anet-a8-power-up&quot;&gt;this post&lt;/a&gt;. I am hoping that the print shield isn't fried. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the log output after attempting to flash firmware using Prusaslicer:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;avrdude-slic3r -v -p atmega2560 -c wiring -P /dev/cu.usbmodem1421 -b 115200 -D -U flash:w:0:/Users/james.johnson/Downloads/prusa3d_fw_3_8_0_MK3 (1)/prusa3d_fw_MK3_3_8_0_2684.hex:i&#xA;&#xA;avrdude-slic3r: Version 6.3-20160220-prusa3d, compiled on Sep 16 2019 at 02:08:32&#xA;                Copyright (c) 2000-2005 Brian Dean, http://www.bdmicro.com/&#xA;                Copyright (c) 2007-2014 Joerg Wunsch&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;                Using Port                    : /dev/cu.usbmodem1421&#xA;                Using Programmer              : wiring&#xA;                Overriding Baud Rate          : 115200&#xA;                AVR Part                      : ATmega2560&#xA;                Chip Erase delay              : 9000 us&#xA;                PAGEL                         : PD7&#xA;                BS2                           : PA0&#xA;                RESET disposition             : dedicated&#xA;                RETRY pulse                   : SCK&#xA;                serial program mode           : yes&#xA;                parallel program mode         : yes&#xA;                Timeout                       : 200&#xA;                StabDelay                     : 100&#xA;                CmdexeDelay                   : 25&#xA;                SyncLoops                     : 32&#xA;                ByteDelay                     : 0&#xA;                PollIndex                     : 3&#xA;                PollValue                     : 0x53&#xA;                Memory Detail                 :&#xA;&#xA;                                         Block Poll               Page                       Polled&#xA;                  Memory Type Mode Delay Size  Indx Paged  Size   Size #Pages MinW  MaxW   ReadBack&#xA;                  ----------- ---- ----- ----- ---- ------ ------ ---- ------ ----- ----- ---------&#xA;                  eeprom        65    10     8    0 no       4096    8      0  9000  9000 0x00 0x00&#xA;                  flash         65    10   256    0 yes    262144  256   1024  4500  4500 0x00 0x00&#xA;                  lfuse          0     0     0    0 no          1    0      0  9000  9000 0x00 0x00&#xA;                  hfuse          0     0     0    0 no          1    0      0  9000  9000 0x00 0x00&#xA;                  efuse          0     0     0    0 no          1    0      0  9000  9000 0x00 0x00&#xA;                  lock           0     0     0    0 no          1    0      0  9000  9000 0x00 0x00&#xA;                  calibration    0     0     0    0 no          1    0      0     0     0 0x00 0x00&#xA;                  signature      0     0     0    0 no          3    0      0     0     0 0x00 0x00&#xA;&#xA;                Programmer Type : Wiring&#xA;                Description     : Wiring&#xA;                Programmer Model: AVRISP&#xA;                Hardware Version: 15&#xA;                Firmware Version Master : 2.10&#xA;                Vtarget         : 0.0 V&#xA;                SCK period      : 0.1 us&#xA;&#xA;avrdude-slic3r: AVR device initialized and ready to accept instructions&#xA;&#xA;Reading | ################################################## | 100% 0.01s&#xA;&#xA;avrdude-slic3r: Device signature = 0x1e9801 (probably m2560)&#xA;avrdude-slic3r: reading input file &quot;/Users/james.johnson/Downloads/prusa3d_fw_3_8_0_MK3 (1)/prusa3d_fw_MK3_3_8_0_2684.hex&quot;&#xA;avrdude-slic3r: writing flash (244050 bytes):&#xA;avrdude-slic3r: stk500v2_command(): command failed&#xA;&#xA;Writing | ################################################## | 100% 42.31s&#xA;&#xA;avrdude-slic3r: 244050 bytes of flash written&#xA;avrdude-slic3r: verifying flash memory against /Users/james.johnson/Downloads/prusa3d_fw_3_8_0_MK3 (1)/prusa3d_fw_MK3_3_8_0_2684.hex:&#xA;avrdude-slic3r: load data flash data from input file /Users/james.johnson/Downloads/prusa3d_fw_3_8_0_MK3 (1)/prusa3d_fw_MK3_3_8_0_2684.hex:&#xA;avrdude-slic3r: input file /Users/james.johnson/Downloads/prusa3d_fw_3_8_0_MK3 (1)/prusa3d_fw_MK3_3_8_0_2684.hex contains 244050 bytes&#xA;avrdude-slic3r: reading on-chip flash data:&#xA;&#xA;Reading | ################################################## | 100% 31.26s&#xA;&#xA;avrdude-slic3r: verifying ...&#xA;avrdude-slic3r: 244050 bytes of flash verified&#xA;&#xA;avrdude-slic3r done.  Thank you.&#xA;&#xA;avrdude-slic3r -v -p atmega2560 -c arduino -P /dev/cu.usbmodem1421 -b 115200 -D -u -U flash:w:1:/Users/james.johnson/Downloads/prusa3d_fw_3_8_0_MK3 (1)/prusa3d_fw_MK3_3_8_0_2684.hex:i&#xA;&#xA;avrdude-slic3r: Version 6.3-20160220-prusa3d, compiled on Sep 16 2019 at 02:08:32&#xA;                Copyright (c) 2000-2005 Brian Dean, http://www.bdmicro.com/&#xA;                Copyright (c) 2007-2014 Joerg Wunsch&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;                Using Port                    : /dev/cu.usbmodem1421&#xA;                Using Programmer              : arduino&#xA;                Overriding Baud Rate          : 115200&#xA;avrdude-slic3r: prusa_init_external_flash(): MK3 printer emitted incorrect start code: `echo: `&#xA;avrdude-slic3r: arduino_open(): Failed to initialize MK3 external flash programming mode&#xA;avrdude-slic3r: Could not open port: /dev/cu.usbmodem1421&#xA;&#xA;avrdude-slic3r done.  Thank you.&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pronterface error log repeats the same error continuously:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;echo:busy: paused for user echo:busy: paused for user // action:pause Extruder fan speed is lower than expected echo:busy: paused for user echo:busy: paused for user echo:busy: paused for user echo:busy: paused for user echo:busy: paused for user echo:busy: paused for user echo:busy: paused for user echo:busy: paused for user // action:pause Extruder fan speed is lower than expected echo:busy: paused for user echo:busy: paused for user&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LcGl6.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LcGl6.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18643" LastActivityDate="2019-09-24T22:29:02.170" Title="Prusa i3, MK3: Firmware updated to 3.8.0. Display shows white blocks" Tags="|prusa-i3|firmware|slic3r|arduino-mega-2650|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11066" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3233" CreationDate="2019-09-24T20:23:55.003" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;First of all, there are some nice open source analyzers written in JavaScript that you can use online, or read the source to, at &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.gcodeanalyser.com/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.gcodeanalyser.com/&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://gcode.ws/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://gcode.ws/&lt;/a&gt;. Their predictions don't fully match actual printer firmware, but they do a reasonably close job, and reading them would be informative.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically, the story behind acceleration and jerk is that you can't change the velocity (speed or direction) of the print head instantaneously. It takes time to speed up and slow down. Acceleration is the max rate at which the velocity of the print head can change. Jerk is something of a misnomer/hack, and is the max fake-instantaneous change in velocity allowed at the junction of two segments/curves. The point of jerk is to avoid choppy motion when moving along a curve made up of many segments by accelerating/decelerating at each tiny corner. Note that there are two sets of settings for both acceleration and jerk:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;a maximum absolute value (3D vector length) that frequently changed as part of the gcode in order to use different acceleration profiles for print moves vs travel moves, walls vs infill, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;per-axis absolute values (standard 1D absolute value) for the limitations of the machine, that are usually set in the printer's settings or the start gcode profile for your printer and never changed.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Movement is constrained to always respect both sets of settings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Printer firmware uses acceleration and jerk settings along with &lt;em&gt;lookahead&lt;/em&gt; at upcoming motion commands to decide how to actually operate the motors. When it starts a motion, it has to accelerate up to the configured max velocity within the acceleration constraints. It also has to start slowing back down midway through unless it knows the next motion is going to continue in the exact same direction; how much it has to slow down depends on the difference in the vectors of motion. If the next motion is going to be in approximately the same direction, it may be able to avoid slowing down by using the jerk allowance to make an &quot;instantaneous&quot; change of velocity at the corner. Only if you have long (relative to speed) linear or approximately linear motions will you ever actually reach the requested speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, to estimate print time, you need to &lt;em&gt;model&lt;/em&gt; this. Keep track of print head velocity while processing/simulating the gcode, and for each motion command, compute velocity as a function of time using the acceleration limits (accelerating at the max rate they allow). You also need to figure out the final velocity you want to end the motion with in order to be able to start the next motion command, and a point to start decelerating if necessary to reach that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2019-09-24T20:23:55.003" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11067" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11064" CreationDate="2019-09-24T22:29:02.170" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I used Marlin 1.1.9 firmware and compiled and loaded it using the Arduino IDE. The printer works now. I was trying to use incompatible firmware. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://marlinfw.org/meta/download/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Marlin 1.1.9&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.arduino.cc/en/main/software&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Arduino IDE&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18643" LastActivityDate="2019-09-24T22:29:02.170" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11068" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11069" CreationDate="2019-09-25T10:40:53.180" Score="2" ViewCount="2093" Body="&lt;p&gt;On a RAMPS 1.4 it is possible to mount 5 stepper motors: &lt;code&gt;X&lt;/code&gt;,&lt;code&gt;Y&lt;/code&gt;,&lt;code&gt;Z&lt;/code&gt; steppers are used for cartesian movements, while &lt;code&gt;E0&lt;/code&gt; and &lt;code&gt;E1&lt;/code&gt; are provided for extruders control.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to use &lt;code&gt;E0&lt;/code&gt; and &lt;code&gt;E1&lt;/code&gt; as additional movement axis in a robotical arm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it possible in Marlin and if not, how can one approach the problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18635" LastActivityDate="2019-09-25T10:40:53.180" Title="How to extend Marlin to support additional movement axis?" Tags="|marlin|ramps-1.4|arduino-mega-2650|axis|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11069" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11068" CreationDate="2019-09-25T10:40:53.180" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found many ways to re-task extruder steppers to &#xA;behave like cartesian-like controls:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If your application does not require contemporary movement of&#xA;all axes, you can enable multiple extruders setting the &lt;code&gt;EXTRUDERS&lt;/code&gt;&#xA;define in Marlin's &lt;code&gt;Configuration.h&lt;/code&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then you can select which extruders will be set as &lt;code&gt;E&lt;/code&gt;&#xA;variable in &lt;code&gt;G1&lt;/code&gt; commands, by sending &lt;code&gt;T0&lt;/code&gt;, &lt;code&gt;T1&lt;/code&gt; and so on.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If your application require contemporary movement of all axes,&#xA;you can enable the &lt;code&gt;MIXING_EXTRUDERS&lt;/code&gt; option (&lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?415,850119&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;source&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With that option, you are basically splitting the &lt;code&gt;E&lt;/code&gt; argument&#xA;between steppers. To set the ratio of your movement, you can give&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;    M163 S0 P0.6    # Set stepper 0 to ratio 0.6&#xA;    M163 S1 P0.4    # Set stepper 1 to ratio 0.4&#xA;    M164 S2         # Create a virtual stepper with given settings&#xA;    T2              # Select the virtual stepper&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you want to configure additional steppers as proper axis,&#xA;check this &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/DerAndere1/Marlin/commit/0258cc906eda008cd1863be44b05ab6c3a15fdc9&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;commit&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18635" LastActivityDate="2019-09-25T10:40:53.180" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11070" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11126" CreationDate="2019-09-25T17:05:29.053" Score="3" ViewCount="1263" Body="&lt;p&gt;Microstepping reduces the actual torque at partial steps, so I would like to increase the stepper torque as much as possible to ensure better behaviour when high acceleration is needed (I'm installing a heavier print bed).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know which drivers and which motors I have so I know the rated values and how to avoid exceeding them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Besides the additional heating, what are the downsides of using higher current OR current, provided (as said) that the ratings are not exceeded?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example: noise? vibrations? anything else?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2338" LastEditorUserId="2338" LastEditDate="2019-09-25T20:37:32.547" LastActivityDate="2019-10-07T01:34:59.563" Title="What are the downsides of high stepper current OR power?" Tags="|stepper|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11071" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11072" CreationDate="2019-09-25T17:07:52.653" Score="5" ViewCount="965" Body="&lt;p&gt;Which of these will heat a bed fastest?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;A. 12&amp;nbsp;V, 10&amp;nbsp;A power supply&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;B. 24&amp;nbsp;V, 5&amp;nbsp;A power supply&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;C. Both A and B will be the same (only total watts matter)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;D. Depends on the situation&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I originally thought Amperage was what mattered until I realized I needed a 24&amp;nbsp;V power supply to even heat my Lulzbot mini bed by one degree.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know voltage is used to determine insulation thickness on wires. But thin wires with high current in them also get hot. Is insulation thickness on wires only to prevent you from accidentally cutting through them and shocking yourself, or is it for heat reasons?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd like to power my heated bed with a 19.5&amp;nbsp;V, 5&amp;nbsp;A power supply. It's just an old laptop charger - I want to reduce strain on my circuit. It's a big bed and I have a few other laptop chargers lying around so I'd prefer to choose the best one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10369" LastEditorUserId="10369" LastEditDate="2019-09-25T19:30:36.133" LastActivityDate="2019-09-26T12:36:07.153" Title="Does voltage or current affect the time to heat a bed more?" Tags="|heated-bed|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11072" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11071" CreationDate="2019-09-25T18:43:38.033" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;It depends on whether you are re-using the bed or not, it is actually the resistance of the bed that determines this in conjunction with the voltage (the current you get for free).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's say that the heatbed resistance is 1.2&amp;nbsp;&amp;ohm; (depending on the heated bed make and model the resistance is typically in between 0.9&amp;nbsp;-&amp;nbsp;1.5&amp;nbsp;&amp;ohm;), this means that the power can be calculated using:&#xA;&lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$$P = U \times I$$&lt;/span&gt;&#xA;&lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$$U = I \times R$$&lt;/span&gt;&#xA;combining gives:&#xA;&lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$$ P = I^2\times R = \frac{U^2}{R} $$&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For 12&amp;nbsp;V (assumed default printer voltage) this means that the heatbed power equals about 120&amp;nbsp;Watt (at a current of 10&amp;nbsp;A). Running that same bed at 24&amp;nbsp;V means that the power is 480&amp;nbsp;Watt (at a current of 20&amp;nbsp;A). So yes, that will heat up fast, at the expense of an increased current, which is pretty high, and should not be attempted without extra resistance in the loop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're using the laptop charger, the current draw equals about 16&amp;nbsp;A, which the adapter cannot deliver.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This means that you need to acquire a new heatbed that is able to handle a higher voltage out of the box (more resistance), or you need to put additional resistors in the loop, but beware of the currents. Note that heated beds for 12&amp;nbsp;V/24&amp;nbsp;V exist, the wiring is different depending on the voltage. Note that such beds heat up faster, it all depends on the resistance and the voltage, but running the 24&amp;nbsp;V circuit on 19.5&amp;nbsp;V (160&amp;nbsp;Watt bed) is definitely an improvement over the 120&amp;nbsp;Watt bed at 12&amp;nbsp;V but still requires about 8&amp;nbsp;A (only applicable to heatbed that can run 12&amp;nbsp;V/24&amp;nbsp;V through extra resistance connections).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Be careful with this and be sure what you are doing!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-09-26T10:12:55.757" LastActivityDate="2019-09-26T10:12:55.757" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11074" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11075" CreationDate="2019-09-26T09:52:11.973" Score="2" ViewCount="469" Body="&lt;p&gt;The slicing software knows exactly (given accurate E-step, filament diameter, nozzle diameter values) how much cold plastic is pushed in the extruder and how much mass is extruded.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why should the extrusion multiplier be changed from 100%? Shouldn't the slicer extrude already enough to fill the gaps left by the neighbouring perimeter (see rectangular vs recto-oval extrusion profile).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As result of the &quot;why&quot; question, implicitly comes up the question &quot;how&quot; should I (scientifically, not try and fail) define the extrusion multiplier? it would appear that said value should not be touched if the rest is done properly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only idea I can have is to print at 100% infill and then saw the part, to check how big are the voids between 4 neighbouring extrusions. Measuring the wall thickness seems very prone to errors (but again, is such calibration really needed?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2338" LastEditorUserId="2338" LastEditDate="2019-09-26T09:59:58.407" LastActivityDate="2019-09-26T15:51:39.533" Title="Why and how am I supposed to change the extrusion multiplier?" Tags="|slicing|calibration|extrusion|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2019-09-30T07:02:06.477" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11075" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11074" CreationDate="2019-09-26T10:16:59.150" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;In an ideal world, you will not need to change this parameter once it is properly calibrated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In a non-ideal world, some filament may be out-of-spec, and some filament may slip when it passes through the extruder. So for a flex (or more flexible) filament, you might increase the extrusion multiplier a little to compensate. If the compensation is material specific, it should be consistent (and might even be advised by the filament manufacturer).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might want to increase/reduce the multiplier whilst printing the first layer (in lieu of fixing your bed leveling properly).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maybe you want to fine-tune the top surface (which will be 100% fill) and you prefer to slightly under-fill this (because over-fill results in more noticeable surface defects).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is for quick hacks or fine tuning, there is probably no scientific approach to setting any value other than 100%.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When it comes to material specific variations (due to melt viscosity, thermal expansion or drive efficiency), there are many factors which affect the tuning. Machine geometry, temperatures, colourants (and other additives in the filament), as well as the base material.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4927" LastEditorUserId="4927" LastEditDate="2019-09-26T15:51:39.533" LastActivityDate="2019-09-26T15:51:39.533" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11076" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-09-26T11:41:48.037" Score="3" ViewCount="9031" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am planning to get a few TMC step sticks for my 3D printer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wanted to know what does 256 interpolation with 16 micro stepping mean, in simple terms?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does it help? If so, how?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8431" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2019-09-29T21:38:24.427" LastActivityDate="2019-09-29T21:38:24.427" Title="What does it mean when they say up to 256 interpolation and 16 micro stepping for the TMC step sticks?" Tags="|electronics|stepper-driver|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11077" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11071" CreationDate="2019-09-26T12:17:13.147" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Bed heaters look like this  &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/A9Gqn.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/A9Gqn.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They are rated for use with 12V or 24V supplies. 12V supply would take longer to warm it up, as P = V^2/R.  Say it was a 2 ohm total resistance bed, then 12*12/2 = 72 watts, vs 24*24/2 = 288 watts. And 19V*19V/2 = 180W. Then you work backwards, P=IV or P/V = I to determine current draw: 72/12 = 6 amp, 288/24 = 12 amp, 180/19 = 9/5A.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16523" LastActivityDate="2019-09-26T12:17:13.147" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11078" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11071" CreationDate="2019-09-26T12:36:07.153" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Power is the thing that determines how quickly the bed heats up, nothing else.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A specific bed will be defined by it's &lt;em&gt;resistance&lt;/em&gt;, this is the only relevant factor which is a constant. Of course, you shouldn't run it at a much higher power than it was designed for, or at a significantly higher temperature (these are related, since the bed looses much more energy to the room as it gets hotter).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All 'low voltage' beds will have the same sort of insulation requirements (effectively none, less than 36V is regarded as safe to touch unless the skin is also penetrated).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The wires used to connect to the heated bed must have a significantly lower resistance than the bed itself (similarly the connectors). Otherwise the wiring overheats and the bed has to work harder (making the overheating worse). Using a heat bed designed for a higher voltage (and a matching higher voltage supply) puts less strain on the wiring because the current is reduced for the same power output.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since the resistance is constant, increasing a 12V power supply to 13V gives a ~17% power increase (with the same bed) because the current also increases.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4927" LastActivityDate="2019-09-26T12:36:07.153" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11079" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11087" CreationDate="2019-09-26T14:43:27.433" Score="1" ViewCount="990" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just purchased an &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.anycubic.com/products/anycubic-photon-3d-printer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Anycubic Photon 3S&lt;/a&gt; LCD-based SLA 3D printer. I understand the need for cleaning and curing parts after printing. While the device is in transit, I'm looking to set up a workstation to use it with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any recommendations for accessories to buy?: Particular containers to store materials in, particular products for cleaning prints (or cleaning the machine), particular lamps for curing, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to avoid gotchas, and I've got time to visit hardware stores or make further online purchases before it arrives. I'm not asking about software or computing hardware, just things that I'll want to have &quot;on the bench&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14061" LastActivityDate="2020-11-25T08:44:56.233" Title="What do I need to go along with my new SLA 3D printer?" Tags="|sla|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11080" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11076" CreationDate="2019-09-26T14:47:07.317" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Higher microstepping numbers result in smoother movement.&#xA;However, printer control boards are limited in how many steps the can generate per second - as low as 10'000 steps/s on an 8-bit AVR board running Marlin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To get the benefits of smoother microstepping, without adding load to your control board, TMC stepper drivers support interpolation between each step impulse coming from your control board, up to 256 different positions with which the stepper motor is driven.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will still have to set up your firmware for the 16 &quot;real&quot; microsteps, the interpolation is only done on the stepper driver itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13171" LastActivityDate="2019-09-26T14:47:07.317" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11081" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11082" CreationDate="2019-09-26T16:26:34.587" Score="2" ViewCount="132" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are there any browser extensions or printers with OctoPrint built in that would allow me to print straight from the browser?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thinking of a workflow like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Make something with Tinkercad (or other online service)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;download stl or obj&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;select print from bookmark or dropdown menu&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;print is sent to printer and starts printing&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18663" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-03-24T23:10:05.530" LastActivityDate="2021-03-24T23:10:05.530" Title="Printing straight from the browser" Tags="|desktop-printer|octoprint|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11082" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11081" CreationDate="2019-09-26T16:44:32.850" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There was the &lt;a href=&quot;https://plugins.octoprint.org/plugins/curalegacy/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;CuraEngine&lt;/a&gt; plugin, but it's not really maintained anymore. It should still work though&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18664" LastActivityDate="2019-09-26T16:44:32.850" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11083" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11079" CreationDate="2019-09-26T16:48:57.783" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would recommend a tub for cleaning the print, some funnels to get leftover resin back into the bottel, gloves, since you really don't want to get any uncured resin on your skin and a strong UV light for finishing the curing process after the cleaning&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18664" LastActivityDate="2019-09-26T16:48:57.783" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11084" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11092" CreationDate="2019-09-26T16:58:02.780" Score="4" ViewCount="681" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I've switched the Trigorilla board in the printer with a SKR 1.3 with TMC2208 drivers and installed the latest Marlin 2.0, with a config based on &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3741425/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this one&lt;/a&gt;. You can find the &lt;a href=&quot;https://pastebin.com/ij1G5tSw&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Configuration.h here&lt;/a&gt;, the only thing I changed in Configuration_adv.h was the pin of the hotend fan. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now when let the printer autocalibrate the delta settings, it tells me that the height is 141.35&amp;nbsp;mm, instead of the actual ~300&amp;nbsp;mm and I had to set the radius to 78&amp;nbsp;mm, instead of the actual 115&amp;nbsp;mm so that it doesn't try to probe outside the bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What settings could I have set so horribly wrong that I get these results?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18664" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-11-24T23:18:10.023" LastActivityDate="2019-11-24T23:18:10.023" Title="Getting wrong measurements on my Kossel Linear Plus after installing SKR 1.3 with Marlin 2.0" Tags="|marlin|delta|kossel|skr-v1.3|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11085" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-09-26T18:16:12.047" Score="1" ViewCount="763" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an Ender 3 Pro which I use together with Cura 4.2.1 (and Octoprint). I print in PLA at 180°C. The print bed is set to 70°C. The Bed temperature is lower though, since I use a glas bed on top of the heated bed. I use a print cooling fan at 100%. The layer height is set to 0.2 mm, the line width 0.4mm from the 0.4mm nozzle. My retraction is 5mm at 50mm/s.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Prints come out with heavy vertical lines and no layer adhesion at these lines. I can easily break the print apart. In other spots the print is fine. Any ideas on what could cause this problem?&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mGGT9.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mGGT9.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/F3ZZ5.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/F3ZZ5.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18536" LastActivityDate="2019-09-26T20:29:12.947" Title="Vertical lines with no layer adhesion" Tags="|print-quality|creality-ender-3|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11086" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11085" CreationDate="2019-09-26T19:15:32.380" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Ender-3 has a problem that stems from the way the X-axis is mounted and which can often be a source for &quot;jumping&quot; in the  Z area. Seeing the upper photo, you can see that the bad printing seems to be on one side more than the other, leading me to believe this might be the reason:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check if the X gantry is orthogonal to the frame on both sides and make sure the eccentric nuts are not too tight so that the wheels roll easily on it, but not spin freely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A little drop of oil on the Z-rod might also help to remove any binding, making sure that it moves smoothly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your layers are bad repeatedly, it also might be a problem with the extruder. Check if the extruder arm is all intact. When I had such an issue that was recurring every 10 layers, I found the lever arm holding the wheel on it broken and occasionally loosing contact. If it is broken, I suggest swapping the extruder assembly for a metallic one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2019-09-26T19:44:35.210" LastActivityDate="2019-09-26T19:44:35.210" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11087" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11079" CreationDate="2019-09-26T20:11:47.780" Score="4" Body="&lt;h1&gt;Safety Gear&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Gloves, you want to wear them whenever handling any resin. Single-use gloves are best - dispose of them after use. Consider them contaminated after touching anything in contact with resin and toss them before handling anything that shall not get in contact with resin. That includes door handles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A good idea is to also wear eye protection, as resin in the eyes could destroy them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While a dust mask might not be strictly necessary, it could reduce your exposure to the fumes of resin. Some resin fumes are known to create hypersensitivity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is also a good idea to put the printer into a dedicated workspace that is well ventilated and not your primary living space. I strongly recommend reading both &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/8594/best-way-to-deal-with-resin-printers-in-your-living-space&quot;&gt;Best way to deal with Resin Printers in your living space&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/7305/safe-way-of-disposing-resin/7307#7307&quot;&gt;Safe way of disposing resin&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Post-Processing Station&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may want to build a post-processing station. Most pieces can be sourced in any home depot store or made from household items, so I don't recommend specific brands but the requirements.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Washing Station&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A typical post-processing station consists of at least 2 vats large enough to submerge your print volume in, so you can wash off your print in the first and then wash it with fresh liquid in the second. The typical liquids for cleaning are isopropyl alcohol and sometimes technical alcohol. Some resins demand special liquids that are specific to the type of resin. Best, the washing vats have securely sealing lids. Glass is preferably as it is easy to clean.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To use the least amount of cleaning liquid, you might want to have a pair of &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/search?q=needle%20spray%20bottle&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;needle spray bottles&lt;/a&gt; - one for each bath. Label them!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To avoid spillage and ruining tables, a plastic table cloth can be a good addition. Fold it with the contaminated side onto itself for storage. A different solution would be to put the cleaning station onto a ceramic or steel surface, which can be easily cleaned after use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Curing Station/Chamber&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The next step is curing the print under direct exposure to a UV light source, somewhat akin to how gel nails are hardened. Sometimes the sun is enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since the resin residue from washing is now in the isopropyl alcohol (or other washing liquid), treat it as chemical waste. To reduce the waste of material, flock out the resin in it by exposing the liquid to the UV light and filter the result. The result is Isopropyl Alcohol with some remaining contaminants, which can be used again for the first rinsing step.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Other Tools&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Besides cleaning and curing the print, you need to remove the print from the plate, so you need a spatula or scraper, which is reserved only for your SLA printer. Never use it on the build platform of your FDM printers and consider it contaminated with uncured resin after use. Best cure residue on it in the UV chamber and then physically chip off the hardened resin before handling it without gloves again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Similarly, a tool to stir the resin and remove flakes is often used, and some makers have special spatulas to clean the vat. Clean them well after use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will want to have some nice snippets to remove the support structures at some spots and some pliers to break them free - safety first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Needle files and sanding paper for cleanup where the support stuck are a given.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Resin Recovery&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since the resin in the trays might harden over time, you'll want to have some sort of rig to hold the vat at a tilted angle upside down so it can flow out, back into the resin bottle. A cover might also help to reduce exposure and allow short time storage in the machine. &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/search?q=resin%20vat&amp;amp;dwh=475d8d188363603&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Thingieverse has a couple of solutions&lt;/a&gt; for lids, pouring and filtering stations as well as other accessories. Look for those that fit your printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Resin should be stored in airtight and light-blocking bottles. As an extra security measure, you should store the resin in a closed cupboard to prevent light exposure through not totally opaque bottles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More on Re-using resin can be found &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/14497/left-over-photopolymer-resins/14500#14500&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Further Reading/watching&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7kHcsTG9QsM&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Angus/Makers Muse on 3D printing safety&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.wargaming3d.com/2018/12/31/the-complete-and-utter-idiots-guide-to-3d-printing-in-resin-for-wargamers/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;A rather good guide regarding Resin 3D printing&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2020-11-25T08:44:56.233" LastActivityDate="2020-11-25T08:44:56.233" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11088" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11085" CreationDate="2019-09-26T20:29:12.947" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;@Trish's answer is good, and has specific Ender-3 knowledge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As I look at the picture, it looks as if the number of affected layers is more than one, and in the enlarged picture it looks as if all layers are present, and the layer pitch is generally consistent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition to @Trish's suggestion, check for any binding in the filament that may be slowing the extruder feed.  This could be periodic as the spool turns, filament catching on something in the environment, or filament wound on the spool so that it does not unspool freely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2082" LastActivityDate="2019-09-26T20:29:12.947" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11089" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11084" CreationDate="2019-09-26T20:33:59.370" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would check the &quot;steps per distance&quot; setting.  If the motors were moving more than the firmware thinks, the height would measure as shorter than actual (since the number of steps would be less than the firmware expected).  Similarly, the radius would scale up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You replaced the controller and motor drivers, so perhaps the micro-stepping is different.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the result is inconsistently wrong, it could be a dynamics setting, such as acceleration or max velocity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2082" LastActivityDate="2019-09-26T20:33:59.370" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11090" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11102" CreationDate="2019-09-27T05:21:11.190" Score="5" ViewCount="2841" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have mounted two radial fan on my printer as a part cooling solution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MTeZ5.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MTeZ5.png&quot; alt=&quot;radial blower fan&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you can see, the fan has input on the left side and blows air down. Does a mirror construction exists? With outlet on the right.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can even print my own casing, but I'm not sure if the fan will work, if I change the rotation direction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm using this print cooling fan duct: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1850163&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1850163&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The fan on the right side has the opening facing the hotend, and there is not much space, so the impeller can catch on wiring etc. If the right fan had opening to the right, there would be no such problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10972" LastEditorUserId="12857" LastEditDate="2019-09-28T11:50:22.690" LastActivityDate="2020-12-31T11:56:01.120" Title="Does right handed radial fan exist?" Tags="|print-fan|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11092" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11084" CreationDate="2019-09-27T14:07:01.533" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;So the problem was that the TMC2208 were wired for UART mode, yet Marlin was configured for standalone, which apparently makes them work, but with completely wrong step sizes. Changing it in the configuration completely eliminated the problem&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18664" LastActivityDate="2019-09-27T14:07:01.533" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11093" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10638" CreationDate="2019-09-27T16:49:21.297" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is what I use:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;module pieSlice(a, r, h){&#xA;  // a:angle, r:radius, h:height&#xA;  rotate_extrude(angle=a) square([r,h]);&#xA;}&#xA;pieSlice(110,20,3);&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13390" LastActivityDate="2019-09-27T16:49:21.297" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11095" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11090" CreationDate="2019-09-28T12:10:47.030" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/120mm-Small-Squirrel-Cage-Exhaust-Plastic_653850349.html?spm=a2700.7724857.normalList.14.23834341IiKFAu&amp;amp;s=p&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/120mm-Small-Squirrel-Cage-Exhaust-Plastic_653850349.html?spm=a2700.7724857.normalList.14.23834341IiKFAu&amp;amp;s=p&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After quite a bit of searching the above link from Alibaba was all I could find. I suspect that they don't make them like that because of the direction of the rotation of the blades. Perhaps they are made so that the rotor can be swapped around if necessary.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HCQAA.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HCQAA.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Centrifugal Fans with different rotors&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;(&lt;a href=&quot;https://i1.wp.com/www.homeintheearth.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/11/CentrifugalFanTypes.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://i1.wp.com/www.homeintheearth.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/11/CentrifugalFanTypes.jpg&lt;/a&gt;)&#xA;The different curving of the blades affects either the volume or the pressure of the airflow (or both).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively how about one that is more agnostic:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B07RNZF97F&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.amazon.com/2Packs-Wathai-40x40x10mm-Brushless-Centrifugal/dp/B07RNZF97F/&lt;/a&gt; &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AeEH0.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AeEH0.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Wathai 40x40x10mm 40mm 12V Brushless Turbo Blower Centrifugal Fan 2Pin&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or just 3d print your own housing!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12857" LastActivityDate="2019-09-28T12:10:47.030" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11096" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11099" CreationDate="2019-09-29T03:13:45.687" Score="4" ViewCount="449" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm using a Prusa Slicer with a FlyingBear Ghost 4 and got a wrong printing alignments on the Y axis only on a part of the printing object. What may cause this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are the printed model pictures showing the problem:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/C0xbh.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Photo of 3D print&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/C0xbh.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Photo of 3D print&quot; title=&quot;Photo of 3D print&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LvMoN.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Close up of misalignment&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LvMoN.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Close up of misalignment&quot; title=&quot;Close up of misalignment&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are the settings:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;# generated by PrusaSlicer 2.1.0+win64 on 2019-09-29 at 11:37:50 UTC&#xA;avoid_crossing_perimeters = 0&#xA;bed_custom_model = &#xA;bed_custom_texture = &#xA;bed_shape = 0x0,255x0,255x210,0x210&#xA;bed_temperature = 60&#xA;before_layer_gcode = &#xA;between_objects_gcode = &#xA;bottom_fill_pattern = rectilinear&#xA;bottom_solid_layers = 7&#xA;bridge_acceleration = 0&#xA;bridge_angle = 0&#xA;bridge_fan_speed = 100&#xA;bridge_flow_ratio = 1&#xA;bridge_speed = 60&#xA;brim_width = 0&#xA;clip_multipart_objects = 0&#xA;colorprint_heights = &#xA;complete_objects = 0&#xA;cooling = 1&#xA;cooling_tube_length = 5&#xA;cooling_tube_retraction = 91.5&#xA;default_acceleration = 0&#xA;default_filament_profile = &quot;&quot;&#xA;default_print_profile = &#xA;deretract_speed = 0&#xA;disable_fan_first_layers = 3&#xA;dont_support_bridges = 1&#xA;duplicate_distance = 6&#xA;elefant_foot_compensation = 0&#xA;end_filament_gcode = &quot;; Filament-specific end gcode \n;END gcode for filament\n&quot;&#xA;end_gcode = M104 S0 ; turn off temperature\nG28 X0 Y0 ; home X and Y axis\nM84     ; disable motors\n&#xA;ensure_vertical_shell_thickness = 0&#xA;external_perimeter_extrusion_width = 0.45&#xA;external_perimeter_speed = 50%&#xA;external_perimeters_first = 0&#xA;extra_loading_move = -2&#xA;extra_perimeters = 1&#xA;extruder_clearance_height = 20&#xA;extruder_clearance_radius = 20&#xA;extruder_colour = &quot;&quot;&#xA;extruder_offset = 0x0&#xA;extrusion_axis = E&#xA;extrusion_multiplier = 1&#xA;extrusion_width = 0.45&#xA;fan_always_on = 0&#xA;fan_below_layer_time = 60&#xA;filament_colour = #FFFFFF&#xA;filament_cooling_final_speed = 3.4&#xA;filament_cooling_initial_speed = 2.2&#xA;filament_cooling_moves = 4&#xA;filament_cost = 30&#xA;filament_density = 1.25&#xA;filament_deretract_speed = nil&#xA;filament_diameter = 1.75&#xA;filament_load_time = 0&#xA;filament_loading_speed = 28&#xA;filament_loading_speed_start = 3&#xA;filament_max_volumetric_speed = 0&#xA;filament_minimal_purge_on_wipe_tower = 15&#xA;filament_notes = &quot;&quot;&#xA;filament_ramming_parameters = &quot;120 100 6.6 6.8 7.2 7.6 7.9 8.2 8.7 9.4 9.9 10.0| 0.05 6.6 0.45 6.8 0.95 7.8 1.45 8.3 1.95 9.7 2.45 10 2.95 7.6 3.45 7.6 3.95 7.6 4.45 7.6 4.95 7.6&quot;&#xA;filament_retract_before_travel = nil&#xA;filament_retract_before_wipe = nil&#xA;filament_retract_layer_change = nil&#xA;filament_retract_length = nil&#xA;filament_retract_lift = nil&#xA;filament_retract_lift_above = nil&#xA;filament_retract_lift_below = nil&#xA;filament_retract_restart_extra = nil&#xA;filament_retract_speed = nil&#xA;filament_settings_id = &quot;FlyingBear Ghost 4&quot;&#xA;filament_soluble = 0&#xA;filament_toolchange_delay = 0&#xA;filament_type = PLA&#xA;filament_unload_time = 0&#xA;filament_unloading_speed = 90&#xA;filament_unloading_speed_start = 100&#xA;filament_wipe = nil&#xA;fill_angle = 45&#xA;fill_density = 20%&#xA;fill_pattern = stars&#xA;first_layer_acceleration = 0&#xA;first_layer_bed_temperature = 60&#xA;first_layer_extrusion_width = 0.42&#xA;first_layer_height = 0.2&#xA;first_layer_speed = 30&#xA;first_layer_temperature = 210&#xA;gap_fill_speed = 20&#xA;gcode_comments = 0&#xA;gcode_flavor = marlin&#xA;gcode_label_objects = 0&#xA;high_current_on_filament_swap = 0&#xA;host_type = octoprint&#xA;infill_acceleration = 0&#xA;infill_every_layers = 1&#xA;infill_extruder = 1&#xA;infill_extrusion_width = 0.45&#xA;infill_first = 0&#xA;infill_only_where_needed = 0&#xA;infill_overlap = 25%&#xA;infill_speed = 80&#xA;interface_shells = 0&#xA;layer_gcode = &#xA;layer_height = 0.1&#xA;machine_max_acceleration_e = 10000,5000&#xA;machine_max_acceleration_extruding = 1500,1250&#xA;machine_max_acceleration_retracting = 1500,1250&#xA;machine_max_acceleration_x = 9000,1000&#xA;machine_max_acceleration_y = 9000,1000&#xA;machine_max_acceleration_z = 500,200&#xA;machine_max_feedrate_e = 120,120&#xA;machine_max_feedrate_x = 500,200&#xA;machine_max_feedrate_y = 500,200&#xA;machine_max_feedrate_z = 12,12&#xA;machine_max_jerk_e = 2.5,2.5&#xA;machine_max_jerk_x = 10,10&#xA;machine_max_jerk_y = 10,10&#xA;machine_max_jerk_z = 0.2,0.4&#xA;machine_min_extruding_rate = 0,0&#xA;machine_min_travel_rate = 0,0&#xA;max_fan_speed = 100&#xA;max_layer_height = 0&#xA;max_print_height = 200&#xA;max_print_speed = 80&#xA;max_volumetric_speed = 0&#xA;min_fan_speed = 35&#xA;min_layer_height = 0.07&#xA;min_print_speed = 10&#xA;min_skirt_length = 0&#xA;notes = &#xA;nozzle_diameter = 0.4&#xA;only_retract_when_crossing_perimeters = 1&#xA;ooze_prevention = 0&#xA;output_filename_format = [input_filename_base].gcode&#xA;overhangs = 1&#xA;parking_pos_retraction = 92&#xA;perimeter_acceleration = 0&#xA;perimeter_extruder = 1&#xA;perimeter_extrusion_width = 0.45&#xA;perimeter_speed = 60&#xA;perimeters = 4&#xA;post_process = &#xA;print_host = &#xA;print_settings_id = FlyingBear Ghost 4&#xA;printer_model = &#xA;printer_notes = &#xA;printer_settings_id = FlyingBear Ghost 4&#xA;printer_technology = FFF&#xA;printer_variant = &#xA;printer_vendor = &#xA;printhost_apikey = &#xA;printhost_cafile = &#xA;raft_layers = 0&#xA;remaining_times = 0&#xA;resolution = 0&#xA;retract_before_travel = 2&#xA;retract_before_wipe = 0%&#xA;retract_layer_change = 0&#xA;retract_length = 2&#xA;retract_length_toolchange = 10&#xA;retract_lift = 0&#xA;retract_lift_above = 0&#xA;retract_lift_below = 0&#xA;retract_restart_extra = 0&#xA;retract_restart_extra_toolchange = 0&#xA;retract_speed = 40&#xA;seam_position = aligned&#xA;serial_port = &#xA;serial_speed = 250000&#xA;silent_mode = 1&#xA;single_extruder_multi_material = 0&#xA;single_extruder_multi_material_priming = 1&#xA;skirt_distance = 6&#xA;skirt_height = 1&#xA;skirts = 1&#xA;slice_closing_radius = 0.049&#xA;slowdown_below_layer_time = 5&#xA;small_perimeter_speed = 15&#xA;solid_infill_below_area = 70&#xA;solid_infill_every_layers = 0&#xA;solid_infill_extruder = 1&#xA;solid_infill_extrusion_width = 0.45&#xA;solid_infill_speed = 20&#xA;spiral_vase = 0&#xA;standby_temperature_delta = -5&#xA;start_filament_gcode = &quot;; Filament gcode\n&quot;&#xA;start_gcode = G28 ; home all axes\nG1 Z5 F5000 ; lift nozzle\n&#xA;support_material = 1&#xA;support_material_angle = 0&#xA;support_material_auto = 1&#xA;support_material_buildplate_only = 0&#xA;support_material_contact_distance = 0.2&#xA;support_material_enforce_layers = 0&#xA;support_material_extruder = 1&#xA;support_material_extrusion_width = 0.35&#xA;support_material_interface_contact_loops = 0&#xA;support_material_interface_extruder = 1&#xA;support_material_interface_layers = 3&#xA;support_material_interface_spacing = 0&#xA;support_material_interface_speed = 100%&#xA;support_material_pattern = rectilinear&#xA;support_material_spacing = 2.5&#xA;support_material_speed = 60&#xA;support_material_synchronize_layers = 0&#xA;support_material_threshold = 0&#xA;support_material_with_sheath = 1&#xA;support_material_xy_spacing = 50%&#xA;temperature = 210&#xA;thin_walls = 1&#xA;threads = 4&#xA;toolchange_gcode = &#xA;top_fill_pattern = rectilinear&#xA;top_infill_extrusion_width = 0.4&#xA;top_solid_infill_speed = 15&#xA;top_solid_layers = 9&#xA;travel_speed = 150&#xA;use_firmware_retraction = 0&#xA;use_relative_e_distances = 0&#xA;use_volumetric_e = 0&#xA;variable_layer_height = 1&#xA;wipe = 0&#xA;wipe_into_infill = 0&#xA;wipe_into_objects = 0&#xA;wipe_tower = 0&#xA;wipe_tower_bridging = 10&#xA;wipe_tower_rotation_angle = 0&#xA;wipe_tower_width = 60&#xA;wipe_tower_x = 180&#xA;wipe_tower_y = 140&#xA;wiping_volumes_extruders = 70,70&#xA;wiping_volumes_matrix = 0&#xA;xy_size_compensation = 0&#xA;z_offset = 0&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18678" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2019-09-29T21:34:33.520" LastActivityDate="2019-09-30T04:31:53.540" Title="Why is some part of the print not aligned?" Tags="|print-quality|y-axis|flyingbear-ghost-4|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11098" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11046" CreationDate="2019-09-29T14:21:17.257" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It seems that &lt;code&gt;ULTIPANEL&lt;/code&gt; must be defined. The code for the encoder was included long ago with the Ultipanel (display and encoder) and does not exist on its own.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#define LCD_SAINSMART_I2C_2004   //  I2C LCD&#xA;&#xA;#define ULTIPANEL                // enable code for encoder.&#xA;&#xA;//encoder pins&#xA;#define BTN_EN1 37&#xA;#define BTN_EN2 35&#xA;#define BTN_ENC 31&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12610" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2019-09-29T17:58:31.733" LastActivityDate="2019-09-29T17:58:31.733" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11099" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11096" CreationDate="2019-09-30T04:31:53.540" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;This looks like your problems are lack of retraction and having the slicer's &quot;overhangs&quot; setting enabled.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Retraction is absolutely essential when your print has layers with multiple disconnected components, and even when it doesn't, it's usually important. Without retraction, material will continue to flow out of the nozzle after extrusion is supposed to have stopped, producing oozing/stringing and subsequent underextrustion (due to the material already having been lost elsewhere).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &quot;overhangs&quot; setting is actively harmful unless your printer firmware has &quot;linear advance&quot; feature and you have calibrated it properly. Otherwise, when reaching part of the perimeter that's an overhang, the print head motion will slow down (I think PrusaSlicer does 10-20 mm/s for overhangs), but &lt;strong&gt;extrusion will continue at the full previous rate&lt;/strong&gt; until pressure in the nozzle subsides. This is what's causing all the ugly sagging loops around the tail. Disable this misfeature so that print speed remains constant between overhang and non-overhang parts of the perimeters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2019-09-30T04:31:53.540" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11100" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7714" CreationDate="2019-09-30T05:20:19.167" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;When idle, the stepper is stationary, no rotation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Normal standard electric motors will start spinning as soon as you apply power to them. However, steppers only rotate when a magnetic field is applied&lt;sup&gt;1)&lt;/sup&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Stepper motors effectively have multiple &amp;quot;toothed&amp;quot; electromagnets&#xA;arranged around a central gear-shaped piece of iron. The&#xA;electromagnets are energized by an external driver circuit or a micro&#xA;controller. To make the motor shaft turn, first, one electromagnet is&#xA;given power, which magnetically attracts the gear's teeth. When the&#xA;gear's teeth are aligned to the first electromagnet, they are slightly&#xA;offset from the next electromagnet. This means that when the next&#xA;electromagnet is turned on and the first is turned off, the gear&#xA;rotates slightly to align with the next one. From there the process is&#xA;repeated. Each of those rotations is called a &amp;quot;step&amp;quot;, with an integer&#xA;number of steps making a full rotation. In that way, the motor can be&#xA;turned by a precise angle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The motor's position can then be commanded to move and hold at one of&#xA;these steps without any position sensor for feedback (an open-loop&#xA;controller), as long as the motor is carefully sized to the&#xA;application in respect to torque and speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you power the printer and energyze the steppers there is no movement, but, the magnetic coils in the stepper are activated to hold the rotor in position. This is controlled by the stepper driver. The creation of the signal for the magnetic coils is causing the noise. It is a function of the driver type, micro-stepping setting, the stepper motor inductance, current setting and supply voltage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the stepper motor, stepper driver and power supply can take it, increasing the current setting of the driver may lower the noise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Turning off the steppers (disabling them with &lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/wiki/G-code&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;G-code&lt;/a&gt; using &lt;code&gt;M2&lt;/code&gt;, &lt;code&gt;M18&lt;/code&gt;, or &lt;code&gt;M84&lt;/code&gt; depending on your firmware) will stop the noise, but you will easily lose the current position as it is not hold into place anymore.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1)&lt;/sup&gt; source &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stepper_motor&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Wikipedia&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:29:41.667" LastActivityDate="2019-09-30T05:20:19.167" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11101" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8474" CreationDate="2019-09-30T06:25:32.980" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Having the same issues with the Adventurer 3. I have printed the TUSH (The Ultimate Spool Holder) and cut a 3&amp;nbsp;cm hole in the door. This enables me to run the spool directly into the printer with the door closed unsing a minimum sized hole.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am also printing the pieces at 235&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C nozzle temperature using glue as a heatbed adhesive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The adventure 3 has no build plate adjustment apart for adjusting the nozzle height when it is centered. Does not leave you much room for adjustment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18685" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-09-30T06:43:57.363" LastActivityDate="2019-09-30T06:43:57.363" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11102" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11090" CreationDate="2019-09-30T11:29:14.403" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes these do exist, but I've never seen them in the size you are interested in, see e.g. these projector fans:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Jw36Y.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Jw36Y.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An alternative are fans that attract flow from both sides, like:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hryYg.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hryYg.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;but I've not seen them in the small size you are interested in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Considering the placement of the fans in the printed cooling duct you posted, I see no problem in using 2 similar fans. There is enough free space to suck in air and if you are afraid that the wires are caught by the impeller, you need to properly fasten the wires, ty wraps work wonderfully in securing cables. If I'm not mistaken, you could even use the holes in the fans to secure the cables or otherwise design and print a small bracket for attaching the ty wraps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2019-09-30T11:29:14.403" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11103" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11104" CreationDate="2019-09-30T13:21:56.310" Score="4" ViewCount="207" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://taulman3d.com/dow-evolv3d.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Taulman3D&lt;/a&gt; advertises a soluble support material (EVOLV3D™ USM Universal Support Material) that handles temperatures appropriate for nylon and is completely safe to flush down the drain. There's very little about how to print with it successfully, however, or how to remove it after printing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other than the documented (wide) print temperature range (200-250&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C), what do I need to know?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16371" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-09-30T21:23:35.837" LastActivityDate="2019-10-08T02:18:37.310" Title="What do I need to know to successfully use Taulman/Dow EVOLV3D™ USM Universal Support Material?" Tags="|filament|support-material|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11104" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11103" CreationDate="2019-09-30T13:21:56.310" Score="5" Body="&lt;h3&gt;Advice From Taulman&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On emailing Taulman asking for advice (after getting some initial failed prints), they responded with the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;[...W]e use the following settings. Support:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ol&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Flow 115&amp;nbsp;%&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Infill = 8-10&amp;nbsp;%&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;2 full surfaces at 100&amp;nbsp;%&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Support speed 50&amp;nbsp;% of print speed.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I've learned trying to apply that advice:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Turning the flow percentage up as advised is a good idea.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;17&amp;nbsp;mm/s is definitely much too fast for this material -- at that speed it's more likely to stick to the nozzle than to the base layer -- but at 8.5&amp;nbsp;mm/s it prints well.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The advice to keep the infill percentage low is solid if you want to be able to mechanically remove any readily accessible sections. I've tried a print with 30&amp;nbsp;% infill after trying to diagnose a failure (more on that below), and while the print came out well, the support infill couldn't be mechanically removed, and was also very slow to dissolve (see below).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;On Support Removal&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At Taulman's recommended 10&amp;nbsp;%-or-below infill percentage, any accessible parts can be mechanically removed. At 30&amp;nbsp;%, that's not really possible anymore -- though 5-10 minutes in boiling water might get the edges loosened up enough to let the bulk of the material be scooped away.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're just going to let it sit in tap water that isn't being circulated, expect that to take a &lt;em&gt;long&lt;/em&gt; time, and to have several cycles of scraping out material that's turned to a gel to allow more to be exposed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using boiling water speeds the process substantially. If you're using USM with a nylon (or other material that's safe to bring to 100&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C), do that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;How's Its Adherence To Nylon?&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not as strong as its adherence to itself. If you print a ceiling of USM on top of support infill of nylon, it's possible for that ceiling to come away with the print head; thus, it reduces risk of failed prints to use USM for the infill as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thus, the &quot;2 full surfaces at 100&amp;nbsp;%&quot; advice given by Taulman above isn't (as I interpret it) just about ensuring that there's a successfully-printed support floor or ceiling; it's also about ensuring that there's enough surface area between the support floor and the nylon of the main print for them to adhere.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16371" LastEditorUserId="16371" LastEditDate="2019-09-30T22:01:39.783" LastActivityDate="2019-09-30T22:01:39.783" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11105" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11122" CreationDate="2019-09-30T13:42:27.720" Score="5" ViewCount="720" Body="&lt;p&gt;Let's suppose I want to build a water block shaped exactly for my &lt;a href=&quot;https://ubishotends.com/shop/ubis-13s-1230-hot-end&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Ubis 13 hot end&quot;&gt;Ubis 13s hot end&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zaOaU.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zaOaU.png&quot; alt=&quot;Ubis 13 hot end&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(similar to &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.instructables.com/id/Water-Cool-Your-3D-Printer-Nozzle-the-Cheap-and-Ea/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this instructable&lt;/a&gt;), or that I want to circulate water around specific objects to be cooled (like &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10881/water-cooling-stepper-motor-with-aluminum-block&quot;&gt;Water-cooling stepper motor with aluminum block&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;CNC allows the use of shaped radiators/water blocks, but it is too expensive for home projects and requires the ability to make a part at the first or second attempt, to keep costs low.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3D printing allows me to design jackets which are perfectly matched to the intended part, including gaps for O-rings or matching &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.3dhubs.com/knowledge-base/how-design-interlocking-joints-fastening-3d-printed-parts/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;valleys+ridges&lt;/a&gt; between the components which also would result in a mostly waterproof seal (just add grease or hot glue...). In this case, water would be in contact with the object to cool and also provide (where suitable) a better interface. Corrosion can be avoided with some additives (in case of aluminium, water should be acidic).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which common printing material is best for this application? Let's limit the question to materials that can be reliably printed at maximum 270&amp;nbsp;°C (nylon ok, but no polycarbonate or PEEK, for example).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We are talking about very low pressure pumps, mechanical strength is of little relevance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2338" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-10-01T10:46:09.703" LastActivityDate="2019-10-04T23:06:10.853" Title="Which filament to use for an application involving water circulation?" Tags="|cooling|filament-choice|water-resistance|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11106" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10955" CreationDate="2019-09-30T22:47:16.253" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;This question lead to an idea of using some &quot;release agent&quot; as anti-stick remedy between support and the printing part.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically the main purpose of mold release agent is to prevent sticking.&#xA;So if the 3d printer will have extra nozzle to dispense agent on top of printed support and before next layers then yes this will be perfect for 3d printing.&#xA;Support will do role of supporting but not stick to the printed part and as result could be easily removed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I am sure almost any oil will do the trick.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My experience with molds in 3d printing:&#xA;I used 3d printed PLA molds with &quot;oven backing clay&quot; which I believe is mostly vinyl mixed with some organic compounds. With some thinning liquid from the same manufacturer I was able to make clay flow and be injected into mold.&#xA;I used oil to make clay release from molds easily. After been released parts baked in oven for 30 minutes under 110C. Then they left for some time to cool down and polymerize. The final parts look like plastic but much stronger and obviously heat resistant.&#xA;This technique could be used to design and test molds that finally will be metal and to be used in real injection molding process. This is what was my original target.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11199" LastActivityDate="2019-09-30T22:47:16.253" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11107" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-10-01T12:53:06.243" Score="3" ViewCount="455" Body="&lt;p&gt;My Anet A8 printer will not print over the heated bed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once I have prepared a file on Cura and inserted the SD card into the printer, the nozzle (extruder) moves into the top left corner and stays there. I have unchecked &quot;Origin at center&quot; and been over the printer settings multiple times. Yet still nothing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any suggestions?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have included a picture of the settings I am using:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YVV1I.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Settings for Anet A8&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YVV1I.png&quot; alt=&quot;Settings for Anet A8&quot; title=&quot;Settings for Anet A8&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/P0yxz.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/P0yxz.png&quot; alt=&quot;The second image shows the {speed_print} without any values &quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18696" LastEditorUserId="18696" LastEditDate="2019-10-05T16:12:31.833" LastActivityDate="2019-10-05T16:12:31.833" Title="Anet A8 not printing over heat bed" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|diy-3d-printer|anet-a8|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11108" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-10-01T19:21:41.183" Score="2" ViewCount="131" Body="&lt;p&gt;For some recent prints I have been using rafts as generated by Cura to aid in bed adhesion; which helps, but is not as reliable as I'd like it to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, it seems to me that the raft generation could be so much better; if I explain what I have in mind, maybe you can explain to me why it is a silly idea; or save me from reinventing the wheel, if some other slicer already implements similar functionality.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What seems silly to me about Cura rafts is that the bottom-most adhesive layer consists of continuous straight lines. This is literally the worst geometry, in terms of being able to relieve its internal cooling strains. Peeling always starts at the extremities of those long first lines, where the accumulated strain overcomes the adhesion, as you would expect. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What seems to me much more optimal is to have many non-connected small 'suction cups' as a first layer; little circles or maybe literal point-like dots. And cover a solid percentage of the surface with those unconnected cups. Like a fine honeycomb pattern. And then use subsequent layers to connect these cups with wavy lines of decreasing spacing, to build a somewhat continuous platform, while still providing a form of natural strain relief within those lines. If you take enough layers with a sufficiently compliant structure, you should be able to master arbitrary spans, with arbitrary shrinkage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has this been tried already? Am I missing something? Or should I start writing my own G-code generator and figure out why it might be a silly idea myself? &lt;strike&gt;Speaking of which; are there any python libraries to aid in generating G-code from a somewhat higher level format?&lt;/strike&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; Forget about that last question; &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/rtZamb/gcody&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;gcody&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt; seems to fit my criteria for not reinventing too many wheels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18698" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2019-10-03T12:36:44.253" LastActivityDate="2019-10-03T12:36:44.253" Title="Alternative raft generation" Tags="|adhesion|rafts|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="14" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11111" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-10-02T21:28:28.097" Score="1" ViewCount="1242" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a CR-10 with TH3D's most recent firmware on it and an EZABL (Plug &amp;amp; Print Auto Bed Leveling Kit) installed.  My problem is that when I select &quot;Auto Home&quot;, the printer ignores the Z-stop switch and keeps trying to lower the extruder, grinding and shuddering until I have to power it off.  I can't seem to figure out what the problem is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18709" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-10-03T06:13:35.037" LastActivityDate="2020-11-19T01:14:10.037" Title="CR-10 Ignoring Z-Stop Switch, Keeps Trying to Lower" Tags="|marlin|creality-cr-10|ezabl|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11113" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2019-10-03T06:28:21.353" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The TH3D EZABL Plug &amp;amp; Print Auto Bed Leveling Kit adds automatic bed levelling to virtually any 3D printer with the need for soldering, modifying your board, or any programming experience. TH3D has provided a modified Marlin firmware version that can be used to more easily configure the firmware to fit this sensor to your 3D printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-10-03T06:28:21.353" LastActivityDate="2019-10-03T06:28:21.353" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11114" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2019-10-03T06:28:21.353" Score="0" Body="Use this tag for questions about the TH3D's EZABL auto bed leveling system." OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-10-03T06:28:21.353" LastActivityDate="2019-10-03T06:28:21.353" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11116" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11117" CreationDate="2019-10-03T17:55:12.583" Score="6" ViewCount="585" Body="&lt;p&gt;Out of the blue my A6 printer displays a ERR MAXTEMP BED error and shows about 100 degrees on the bed even when just powered on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A quick thermistor check shows that it's working properly : about 80 kOhm at room temperature, similar to other units (didn't bother to really check the specs).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Swapping the bed thermistor for the head thermistor connector does not change the temperature readings : the one connected to the bed input gets 100 degrees, while the other one works as expected, proving that the connector and thermosensor are ok.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It has to be in the board. How do I fix it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14338" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2019-10-04T08:29:10.173" LastActivityDate="2019-10-04T08:29:10.173" Title="Anet A6 ERR MAXTEMP BED error" Tags="|heated-bed|anet-a6|repair|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11117" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11116" CreationDate="2019-10-03T17:55:12.583" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm posting the answer here hoping that will help anyone that encounters a similar issue. A post on another site indicated that these boards are known to be problematic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After some digging, I came up with the schematics of this part of the mainboard :&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2crgP.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2crgP.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not an electronics genius, but clearly it's not the capacitor; so that leaves the pull-up resistor or the microcontroller.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since the printer is already unusable, no harm in trying to replace the resistor, which is located just next to the connectors; for the bed it was the second from left, but if you encounter the same issue with another input, you may need to locate the proper one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Make sure you have the proper tools and knowledge for removing and soldering SMD components; in my case it was a 4k7 resistor in 0805 footprint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bottomline : replacing a less-than-one-cent resistor saves a month of waiting for the delivery of a $25 board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14338" LastActivityDate="2019-10-03T17:55:12.583" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11118" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11125" CreationDate="2019-10-04T09:53:07.793" Score="4" ViewCount="945" Body="&lt;p&gt;I thought about using a BLTouch probe to do 3D scans of objects. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The objects to be suitable require smooth gradients and enough space for the probe, without anything hitting the print head/hot end.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What tools do I need to control the printer and obtain such data? are there GCodes scripts for that?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would need to define a grid size, spacing, retraction, maximum expected height increase between adjacent points.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2338" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-10-07T16:10:48.487" LastActivityDate="2019-10-08T02:13:26.863" Title="How to use a BLTouch or equivalent touch probe to 3D scan objects with a 3D printer?" Tags="|software|scanning|bltouch|3dtouch|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11119" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10843" CreationDate="2019-10-04T11:56:08.050" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;First things first imho: &lt;strong&gt;M0 to stop the stamp&lt;/strong&gt;. I dunno which firmware are you using but it should wait you to press a button on the LCD (Marlin does it).  After that it run the gcode to unload and load the filament, resume temperature (M109 S215) and go ahead with the stamp.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is my final version:   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;    M83&#xA;    G1 F3000 E-25&#xA;    G1 F300 Z4&#xA;    G1 F9000 X100 Y100&#xA;    G1 F300 Z15&#xA;    M0 ;Do the actual pause&#xA;    G21 ;Metric Values&#xA;    G90 ;Absolute Positioning&#xA;    M109 S205.000 ;205 Unload&#xA;    G92 E0 ;Reset Extruder Positioning&#xA;    G1 E10 F100 ;Extrude 10mm filament&#xA;    G92 E0 ;Reset Extruder Positioning&#xA;    G1 E-600 F1500 ;Retract Filament completely &#xA;    G92 E0 ;Reset Extruder&#xA;    M400 ;Wait Command&#xA;    M117 REMOVE FILAMENT NOW ;LCD Message&#xA;    M400 ; Wait Command&#xA;    G21 ;Metric Values&#xA;    G90 ;Set absolute positioning&#xA;    M109 S205.000 ;Preheat PLA&#xA;    M300 S440 P200 ; Tone&#xA;    M300 S660 P250 ; Tone&#xA;    M300 S880 P300 ; Tone&#xA;    G4 S5 ; Wait 5 seconds&#xA;    G92 E0 ;Reset Extruder Position&#xA;    G1 E380 F1500; Fast Feed of 380mm filament&#xA;    G92 E0 ;Reset Extruder Position&#xA;    G1 E100 F200 ;Feed 100mm filament slowly&#xA;    G92 E0 ;Reset Extruder Position&#xA;    M400; Finish Move&#xA;    M109 S215; resume temperature&#xA;    G1 F3000 E25&#xA;    G1 F3000 E-25&#xA;    G1 F300 Z4&#xA;    G1 F9000 X101.7 Y137.3&#xA;    G1 F3000 E25&#xA;    G1 F9000&#xA;    M82&#xA;    G92 E763.80547&#xA;    G4 P1 &#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18718" LastEditorUserId="18718" LastEditDate="2019-10-04T12:04:58.613" LastActivityDate="2019-10-04T12:04:58.613" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11120" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11107" CreationDate="2019-10-04T12:16:20.803" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;do you set the &lt;code&gt;{speed_print}&lt;/code&gt; value correct? Otherwise the command &lt;strong&gt;G1 Z15.0 F {speed_print}&lt;/strong&gt; is not executable imho...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18718" LastEditorUserId="18718" LastEditDate="2019-10-04T12:23:37.957" LastActivityDate="2019-10-04T12:23:37.957" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11121" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11056" CreationDate="2019-10-04T13:52:15.610" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Trish's version is good but wait for bed temperature being at 30 °C (&lt;code&gt;M190 R30&lt;/code&gt;) before setting the temperature to 0 °C (&lt;code&gt;M140 S0&lt;/code&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So this is my version:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;G91 ;relative positioning&#xA;G1 E-1 F300  ;retract the filament a bit before lifting the nozzle, to release some of the pressure&#xA;G1 Z+0.5 E-5 X-20 Y-20 F9000 ;move Z up a bit and retract filament even more&#xA;G28 X0 Y0 ;move X/Y to min endstops, so the head is out of the way&#xA;G1 Y150 F5000 ;move completed part out&#xA;M84 ;steppers off&#xA;G90 ;absolute positioning&#xA;M190 R30 ;waits until cooling to 30 °C&#xA;M300 S300 P1000 ;beep&#xA;M300 S300 P1000 ;beep&#xA;M300 S300 P1000 ;beep&#xA;M300 S300 P1000 ;beep&#xA;M104 S0 ;extruder heater off&#xA;M140 S0 ;heated bed heater off &#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18718" LastEditorUserId="18718" LastEditDate="2022-02-21T11:50:55.367" LastActivityDate="2022-02-21T11:50:55.367" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11122" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11105" CreationDate="2019-10-04T23:06:10.853" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I saw a lot of selling PETG water cooling pipes.&#xA;So PETG will be the best choice considering all factors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition:&#xA;You could use any plastic with the oil instead of water for cooling medium.&#xA;Also automotive anti-freeze (G11, G12, G13 ...) designed to be non corrosive and much better than water in terms of cooling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11199" LastActivityDate="2019-10-04T23:06:10.853" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11123" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11124" CreationDate="2019-10-05T23:16:59.607" Score="4" ViewCount="191" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have just started with the FlashForge Creator Pro using the FlashPrint slicer software. I have gotten some nice prints but I am having an issue with a certain print from &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2895799&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this model of a knife&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See image below:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rUxNc.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rUxNc.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Everything prints fine up to where the blade starts. As you can see, there is horizontal portion of the blade that juts out and, as I predicted, when it tries to print this, there is nothing for it to adhere to so it hangs there and when the extruder moves, it just pulls the filament around with it and creates a mess.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The object file from Thingiverse is designed that way (with it standing upright) and there are pictures on the Thingiverse page of a successfully printed knife. As I am new to this, I am wracking my brain trying to figure out how to print this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried to cut the design and print the handle and blade separately (laying the blade down flat on the print surface) but the blade isn't perfectly flat on the sides so it doesn't lay flat. I suppose I could also just cut the blade and lay it vertically on the print surface but it seems as though it was designed to print in full in one piece.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any help or any pointers in the right direction would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18731" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-10-06T06:25:10.413" LastActivityDate="2019-10-06T06:25:10.413" Title="Horizontal line z-axis not printing correctly" Tags="|troubleshooting|support-structures|flashforge-creator|flashprint|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11124" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11123" CreationDate="2019-10-06T00:45:21.933" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You'll notice in the screen capture that there is an icon marked &quot;supports.&quot; This is precisely the solution required. When selected, the software should construct a series of vertical pillars in the locations required to properly print the horizontal portion of the knife blade.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's common for Thingiverse models to have a notation Supports (yes/no) to indicate that this feature should be activated. Depending on the capability of your printer, some angles may require supports that are not required on someone else's printer model. There may also be an adjustment for angle reference to cease supports or to require. My printer will handle up to a 50° from vertical without support. Beyond that, more filament is used, but the result is superior to printing without it, as you've discovered.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note also that support is typically categorized as &quot;from the bed only&quot; or &quot;everywhere.&quot; The former prevents support from being generated between vertically separated parts of the model, while the latter permits it. Some models may have, for example, a foot on the bed not requiring support, but the arm directly above the foot does. &quot;From the bed only&quot; means the arm would droop/fail as no support would be generated above that portion of the model.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are using the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.flashforge.com.hk/downloads.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;ReplicatorG 0400 software&lt;/a&gt;, referenced from the manufacturer's web site, page 11 of the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.flashforge.com.hk/uploads/5/8/1/9/58196085/flashforge_creator_pro_user_manual_en_version04.29.2015.3.2._latest.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;manual&lt;/a&gt; will have additional information regarding support within the program.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastActivityDate="2019-10-06T00:45:21.933" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11125" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11118" CreationDate="2019-10-06T23:26:28.573" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't know the probe, but I have used a delta 3D printing machine (of my design) to scan a surface.  It takes some time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your resolution will be limited by the probe geometry of the touch probe tip.  You want a Z-probe function that reports the Z-value of the point, not that simply sets Z= when the probe &quot;hits&quot;.  The RepRap firmware has this in the &lt;code&gt;G30&lt;/code&gt; command.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will need to write a loop that probes all points of interest.  This is best done by writing a program (or script) that generates the G-code.  I have a PERL script that generates the calibration mesh for my Delta machine, and I can share that with you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I edit the script for the area to be scanned.  This includes (in my case) the radius and the resolution.  I then run the script to produce G-code to do the probing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I send the G-code to the printer with Repetier-Host.  Repetier-Host builds a log file of every character returned by the printer.  The G30 command returns in the log the Z value wher ethe probe hit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After the G-code is fully executed, I run a PERL script on the log file to extract the Z height of each of the probed points.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What you do with that data is up to you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2082" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2019-10-07T15:06:59.937" LastActivityDate="2019-10-07T15:06:59.937" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11126" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11070" CreationDate="2019-10-07T00:54:10.103" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is a downside.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the current is too high, you lose the linearity of micro-stepping.  If the highest current exceeds the maximum, then the highest current micro-stepping positions will collapse on each other.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are within the specs of the motors, there are no motor-related problems caused by higher currents.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But other problems can be caused by increasing the current.  The current must be within the capacity of the motor drivers and their heat sink.  If the drivers overheat, many will simply shut off, causing the motors to not move when they should, which will appear as misalignment on X, Y, or Y.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another problem could be higher vibration, which would show as stronger ringing when going around corners.  The higher current will give higher torque and higher acceleration, which will cause more vibration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are increasing the current to support a bigger and heavier print bed, you will possibly have other troubles.  Although the higher torque will be countered by the higher bed mass, the higher bed mass may be coupled with longer belts, which will be more stretchy.  You may also be imposing forces over longer frame components, which may cause them to flex more.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2082" LastEditorUserId="2082" LastEditDate="2019-10-07T01:34:59.563" LastActivityDate="2019-10-07T01:34:59.563" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11134" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-10-08T10:11:11.513" Score="4" ViewCount="2076" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently installed a SKR 1.3 Board with a 3DTouch-Probe on my Creality Ender 3 Pro. &#xA;The probe works, &lt;code&gt;G29&lt;/code&gt; does its magic, but:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If i issue a plain &lt;code&gt;G28&lt;/code&gt;, the hotend first homes X and Y like before the Z-probe. &#xA;The probe is now next to, not above, the bed.&#xA;As the next step, the printer is supposed to home the Z-axis. The probe deploys and Z starts to lower until it smashes into the bed, because the probe misses the bed (if I don't stop it, that is).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I configured X/Y offsets for the probe, but they don't seem to be honored when performing the &lt;code&gt;G28&lt;/code&gt; code.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I home X/Y &quot;manually&quot; with &lt;code&gt;G28 X Y&lt;/code&gt;, move the hotend with like &lt;code&gt;G1 X45 Y10&lt;/code&gt;, then home Z with &lt;code&gt;G28 Z&lt;/code&gt; it works fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What did I miss? Is this intended behaviour &amp;amp; the user has to take care never to issue a plain &lt;code&gt;G28&lt;/code&gt;?!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18761" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-11-24T23:21:31.307" LastActivityDate="2019-11-24T23:21:31.307" Title="G28 ignoring Z-Probe X/Y Offsets" Tags="|creality-ender-3|bed-leveling|z-probe|3dtouch|skr-v1.3|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11135" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11134" CreationDate="2019-10-08T12:13:08.367" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You need to enable the constant &lt;code&gt;Z_SAFE_HOMING&lt;/code&gt; (like: &lt;code&gt;#define Z_SAFE_HOMING&lt;/code&gt;) in your &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/blob/1.1.x/Marlin/Configuration.h&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;printer configuration file&lt;/a&gt; (if you're using Marlin firmware that is). This will move the nozzle to the middle of the plate prior to lowering the nozzle by default:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#if ENABLED(Z_SAFE_HOMING)&#xA;  #define Z_SAFE_HOMING_X_POINT ((X_BED_SIZE) / 2)    // X point for Z homing when homing all axes (G28).&#xA;  #define Z_SAFE_HOMING_Y_POINT ((Y_BED_SIZE) / 2)    // Y point for Z homing when homing all axes (G28).&#xA;#endif&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-10-08T19:52:44.423" LastActivityDate="2019-10-08T19:52:44.423" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11136" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11134" CreationDate="2019-10-08T14:14:10.477" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Use &lt;code&gt;Z Safe Homing&lt;/code&gt; to avoid homing with a Z probe outside the bed area&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to Marlin firmware with this feature enabled:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Allow Z homing only after X and Y homing AND stepper drivers still&#xA;enabled.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If stepper drivers time out, it will need X and Y homing again before Z homing.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Move the Z probe (or nozzle) to a defined XY point before Z Homing when homing all axes (G28).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Prevent Z homing when the Z probe is outside the bed area.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To Enable Z SAFE HOMING, In the &lt;code&gt;configuration.h&lt;/code&gt; file search (Ctrl+F) for &lt;code&gt;#define Z_SAFE_HOMING&lt;/code&gt;. By default, it will be disabled to enable it just uncomment &#xA;the line&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5KfmU.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5KfmU.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17500" LastActivityDate="2019-10-08T14:14:10.477" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11137" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11111" CreationDate="2019-10-08T16:52:25.807" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had this same issue with my CR-10s. My black and white wires were reversed where I plugged them in to the motherboard in place of the stock z stop wires. I had to take apart the connector and swap them, as they came backwards from the mfg. Once I did that it worked perfectly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The image I'm attaching helped me solve my issue. It is not mine, after much searching I found kenneycp's reply on this comment thread &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2975949/comments&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2975949/comments&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vydzc.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vydzc.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;CR-10s wiring for BLTouch&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user18756" LastActivityDate="2019-10-08T16:52:25.807" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11138" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11140" CreationDate="2019-10-08T23:03:27.653" Score="4" ViewCount="450" Body="&lt;p&gt;Normally stainless steel is magnetic. But whenever i order stainless steel nozzles from Amazon, they are not magnetic. This makes me think they could be brass coated in something like aluminum. However, there are many types of steel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've attached an image of someone who reviewed these nozzles. He says they are not stainless steel because they are not magnetic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FYGZr.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But whenever I order &quot;stainless steel&quot; nozzles, even from other sellers, they are not magnetic. i already returned one pack from another seller and just received a nonmagnetic one from a third seller.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So that's it? Amazon just sells junk now? Or is there a way I can easily tell whether these are something other than colored brass / good for abrasive or high temp printing. Here is the product that was reviewed: &#xA;AUSTOR 13 Pieces Stainless Steel 3D Printer Nozzles 0.2 mm, 0.4 mm, 0.6 mm, 0.8 mm, 1.0 mm Extruder Nozzle Print Head for E3D Makerbot &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B07CHZMGRH&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CHZMGRH/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_XtrNDbRMVH8SW&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10369" LastEditorUserId="10369" LastEditDate="2019-10-08T23:05:13.297" LastActivityDate="2023-01-30T22:45:54.537" Title="How to tell if a nozzle is truly stainless steel?" Tags="|metal-parts|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11139" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11138" CreationDate="2019-10-09T06:07:47.900" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Stainless steel is created by adding elements (usually Chromium, but also Nickel) to steel. These added elements form an oxide layer with the outside air protecting the steel from corroding. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whether stainless steel is magnetic or not depends on the added elements and the micro structure of the steel; some are and some aren't magnetic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.physlink.com/Education/askexperts/ae546.cfm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;physlink&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;As for whether they (red. stainless steels) are magnetic, the answer is that it depends. There are several families of stainless steels with different physical properties. A basic stainless steel has a 'ferritic' structure and is magnetic. These are formed from the addition of chromium and can be hardened through the addition of carbon (making them 'martensitic') and are often used in cutlery. However, the most common stainless steels are 'austenitic' - these have a higher chromium content and nickel is also added. It is the nickel which modifies the physical structure of the steel and makes it non-magnetic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the answer is that you cannot determine by testing for magnetic properties if the nozzle is stainless steel or not. But if it is not magnetic, it can be stainless steel. Note that discoloration is possible, this is the oxide layer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To identify if the steel is stainless, you could without sacrificing the nozzle (according to &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.hunker.com/13401485/how-to-tell-if-stainless-steel-is-real&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this reference&lt;/a&gt;):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Step 1&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  Stick the magnet on the piece you are testing. If it holds firmly, the metal is possibly stainless steel. If not, it is (red. could be) another metal such as aluminum.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Step 2&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  Pick a spot on the piece that you don't mind damaging a little.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Step 3&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  Fill the eye dropper with &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hydrochloric_acid&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;muriatic acid&lt;/a&gt;. Drop a small amount of the acid on the test spot. Wait half an hour.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Step 4&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  Wipe the acid off the piece. Examine the test spot. If it is discolored, the piece is stainless steel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Note that the image you posted shows a Zinc plated steel screw, not a stainless steel screw.&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-10-09T14:46:27.247" LastActivityDate="2019-10-09T14:46:27.247" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11140" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11138" CreationDate="2019-10-09T12:52:46.410" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Let's preface, that there are a LOT of metal identification methods. For example, I found &lt;a href=&quot;http://fac.ksu.edu.sa/sites/default/files/Metal%20Identification%20Ready%20_unprotected.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this guide&lt;/a&gt; helpful and I had been at the scrapyard lately, where I have been told that 90+% of the time, steel objects that are non-magnetic are the more valuable stainless steel. The kitchen sink I dropped off? Stainless, non-magnetic steel. That's because &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.reliance-foundry.com/blog/does-stainless-steel-rust&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;about 70% of the made stainless steel is Austenitic Steel&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thyssenkrupp-materials.co.uk/is-stainless-steel-magnetic&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;which happens to be generally non-ferromagnetic&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Magnetic test&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A common test in scrapyards is, to check if an item is magnetic, as &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.meadmetals.com/blog/why-is-stainless-steel-not-magnetic&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;a lot of stainless steels are non-magnetic&lt;/a&gt; and then prove to be iron metals with a short spark test (see below).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Tempering/Annealing behavior&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The very fact that the nozzles do change color to a brassy color that is commonly called straw is proof that it is indeed steel: heating up a piece of steel does alter the steel and also alters the surface color in a process called &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tempering_(metallurgy)&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;tempering&lt;/a&gt;. The color is only the surface, and the mild straw color would become orange-brown, purple, pale blue teal and yellow if you were to heat it higher. Take a look at the tempering colors of steel here:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hY7Pp.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hY7Pp.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Steel temper colors&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In contrast, brass acts differently when heated and &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.highettmetal.com.au/blog/brass/how-to-temper-brass&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;tempering&lt;/a&gt; is somewhat different. Subjecting the piece of brass to heat you will not temper but &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Annealing_(metallurgy)&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;anneal&lt;/a&gt; it and you get colors differently. Instead of becoming straw before blue, Brass becomes dark, starting with its pale gold to go over a dark &amp;quot;antique&amp;quot; look to before going green, teal, purple-blue, red and then losing its color like this piece of a polished brass plate shows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zqtQT.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zqtQT.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Brass, annealed&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Hardness/Chip&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another test that would be easy to conduct is hardness. The base idea of hardness is: An item can scratch a piece of equal or lower hardness, but not of higher hardness. If you have a chisel handy, then you have a piece of steel at hand. Most chisels are rated as HRC 58-62 - which is the Rockwell hardness scale. Brass could be &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.matweb.com/search/DataSheet.aspx?MatGUID=d3bd4617903543ada92f4c101c2a20e5&amp;amp;ckck=1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;all over the place&lt;/a&gt;, depending on work hardening. But the identification is not by the hardness but by how the chisel - or better a graver - cuts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We expect Brass to get a smooth cut with saw tooth edges while stainless cuts smoothly and has sharp edges to the cut.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Sparktest&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to scrap one, get an angle grinder or another power tool to grind at the nozzle. &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/D094eBa4S7c?t=150&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Steel sparks&lt;/a&gt; red-orange to whitish and depend on the mix, Carbide sparks very short and orange. Stainless creates a HUGE shower of sparks, yellow-white and dense, no burstes and branching. Copper, aluminium and Brass &lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/D094eBa4S7c?t=428&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;do not spark&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;. Titanium is very bright white. It can &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D094eBa4S7c&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;tell you what kind of steel you have&lt;/a&gt;: Stainless steel typically has medium-to-long, non- to low-branching, non- or low-exploding sparks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aEyq2.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aEyq2.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Photos of a spark test&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tE9qc.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tE9qc.png&quot; alt=&quot;a spark test pattern chart&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eqzvT.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eqzvT.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;a different spark test pattern chart&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Drilltest&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As we are at destroying a pair of nozzles, why not drill them? we should have done that before subjecting it to heat treating and grinding, but alas... Basically, we clamp the piece down and take an HSS drill to drill out the center.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Brass needs a different drill type but can be drilled and machined without coolant. Typical HSS drills from the home depot have a positive rake, brass wants a neutral or negative rake to drill or machine smoothly. If the piece grabs, creates short spials and dusty small flakes with an unmodified, new drill (or under positive rake machining), it drills like brass, as you see here from a &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/pAngKHIZgyA&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Clickspring video on drilling brass&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CgVeN.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CgVeN.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;HSS on Steel, ft. Clickspring&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In contrast, stainless steel doesn't want to be machined &lt;strong&gt;without cooling&lt;/strong&gt; at all and using high speed creates smoke quickly and nearly no chips at all. A moment later your tool starts to glow and gets a dull edge. If your drilling experiment turns a new drill blunt on high speeds or uncooled, you have stainless at your hands. To get chips, you need to work &lt;em&gt;slow&lt;/em&gt; and have some sort of cooling. It is still a painfully slow process that needs a lot of pressure, but it gets larger, nesting chips like seen here from a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FMzIHl1HMXc&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Wayne Canning steel drilling tutorial&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/a5VG2.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/a5VG2.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Drilling HSS in Stainless Steel&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Rust test&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have established it is an iron metal via spark testing, you also have an exposed surface. There are commonly &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.assemblymag.com/articles/94878-corrosion-of-stainless-steel-test-methods-and-proper-expectations&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;three tests&lt;/a&gt; to see the quality of stainless steel, which will show only minimal rusting on such an exposed surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Copper Sulfate Solution will react with most non-stainless steels or contaminated stainless steels quite aggressively, while stainless steels react only minimally.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A high-humidity warmed chamber at about 30 °C results in a dense rust layer within 24 hours on exposed steel. Just dumping into water will do so too, so into a bucket and wait a day. If it's all over rusted, it's not stainless.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Saltwater spray is very corrosive on non-stainless steels, resulting in accelerated rust. While this test typically is run as a stress test for days or weeks to test exposure to marine life, a few hours will rule out non-stainless steel.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2023-01-16T17:46:40.880" LastActivityDate="2023-01-16T17:46:40.880" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11142" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8652" CreationDate="2019-10-09T14:23:59.587" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found &lt;a href=&quot;https://forum.simplify3d.com/viewtopic.php?f=8&amp;amp;t=6684&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this post&lt;/a&gt; on the S3D Forums that seem to have some interesting information on custom scripting within Simplify3D. While this doesn't seem to SPECIFICALLY address the question you've got, it looks like there's a &quot;Retraction Scripts&quot; tab that you could probably leverage your T2 tool inside of, using &quot;OLDTOOL&quot; instead of &quot;NEWTOOL&quot;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For additional information on what variables are available, I found &lt;a href=&quot;https://forum.simplify3d.com/viewtopic.php?f=8&amp;amp;t=1959&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;a different forum post here&lt;/a&gt; that seems to have some documentation on Simplify3D's built-in script variables. Additionally, from the GCode in the first link's example scripts, it &lt;em&gt;appears&lt;/em&gt; that you should be able to actually address M-commands to individual extruders (such as T2 in your case) simply by adding &quot;T(x)&quot; as a parameter to the individual command. I just ran a quick test on my own Marlin-based printer with a 2in-1out hotend, and I was not able to get it to address G1 commands to specific E motors without switching tools. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All in all I think you should be able to use the custom scripts available in S3D to accomplish what you want by switching tools in the layer change script, but aside from that, I don't know what options you have available with that specific software chain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16621" LastActivityDate="2019-10-09T14:23:59.587" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11144" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15313" CreationDate="2019-10-09T18:21:33.707" Score="2" ViewCount="3002" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to make Polyurethane molds for &lt;strong&gt;concrete&lt;/strong&gt; using 3D printed PLA or ABS master object. like this video:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/UhkrEm5XtRU?start=0&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt; (this video is not about concrete of course!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure if it will stick to PLA or ABS master or not! if it does stick, whick wax material can solve this problem... Do I need to print my masters with another filament?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JGMR5.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JGMR5.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13700" LastActivityDate="2021-01-14T13:14:48.087" Title="Making Polyurethane molds with PLA (or ABS) 3D printed master" Tags="|pla|abs|molds|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11145" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-10-09T19:25:38.403" Score="2" ViewCount="957" Body="&lt;p&gt;My Alfawise EX8 (Anet A8 Clone) had an issue, so I flashed the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.dropbox.com/s/e1ab6p2s8j61w6q/Marlin.rar?dl=0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;firmware&lt;/a&gt; provided on the GearBest page. After the flash the LCD is no longer doing anything and I can't really identify the LCD to confirm whether the correct one is selected in configuration.h &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Currently the firmware had 'Mini VIKI' selected, but I'm not confident it works.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I cannot see anything on the screen, but I can still turn the dial and click things to make it do stuff.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YMky7m.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YMky7m.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aAhbkm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aAhbkm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I really hope somebody can help!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18783" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-10-12T21:00:16.893" LastActivityDate="2022-03-08T23:18:58.833" Title="Anet A8 Clone LCD not working after flash" Tags="|marlin|firmware|lcd-screen|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11146" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11144" CreationDate="2019-10-10T11:23:15.287" Score="4" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Temperature&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As polyurethane cures (or hardens), it undergoes a chemical bonding reaction, linking the mono- and oligomer strings in the components into long polyurethane chains. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.essentialchemicalindustry.org/polymers/polyurethane.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;The chemical reaction is exothermic&lt;/a&gt;, it creates heat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, we have a process that heats up the polyurethane mixture as it hardens, but how much? Well, it's hard to find numbers for it, but I suspect it can easily reach 30 to 40 °C, depending on the mixture (fast curing) it could easily go higher. To combat the effects of heat softening of the PLA/ABS model inside the mold, I strongly suggest printing with extra shells and extra infill. While most items can get away with 10 %, in this case, I suggest 20-30 %. ABS would be the superior choice above PLA as it starts to deform at a higher temperature. PLA can start to deform at around 60 °C, ABS only at about 80 °C.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The temperature of the PU curing depends on the speed of the curing process - it is safer for the masters to choose a slower curing mix as the heat is generated over a longer time and the maximum temperature is thus lower as a result (as excess heat is lost to the room)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Surface&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To reduce the sticking to the surface from the material creeping into the gaps of the model, it has to be as smooth as possible and best also sealed. If you choose ABS, a quick acetone vapor bath would do the trick in this case. PLA should be lacquer sealed as it doesn't like to stick to most waxes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Adding a mold release agent isn't necessarily needed, but could help in removing the masters from the mold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Conclusion&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;ABS might be the better choice in this application. It is advisable to use extra-thick walls (3+), a lot of infill (20-30 %) and a vapor smoothed surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:29:41.667" LastActivityDate="2019-10-10T18:41:32.373" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11147" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11257" CreationDate="2019-10-10T15:00:44.160" Score="3" ViewCount="266" Body="&lt;p&gt;I made two &quot;OBJ&quot; 3D models of myself using &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.3dsystems.com/3d-scanners/sense-scanner&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Sense 2 scanner&lt;/a&gt; and using photogrammetry with &lt;a href=&quot;https://alicevision.org/#meshroom&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Meshroom&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would like to extract some information about myself to be able to scale the model properly and to be able to compare the accuracy. For example, distance between shoulders or circumference of the neck/chest. Another option would be to hold a reference parallelepiped and then scale the model based on the known distance between faces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I do that? I can calculate the distance between points I can click using Meshmixer, but circumference or the distance between parallel faces is more difficult. The tools Meshmixer offers for the purpose don't seem to work well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are my options?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2338" LastActivityDate="2019-10-28T22:52:28.027" Title="How to extract 3D information from a 3D model for calibration?" Tags="|3d-models|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11148" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11151" CreationDate="2019-10-11T05:23:08.063" Score="1" ViewCount="180" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am new to 3D printing but have been in CNC Machining for a few years. I have a part I am trying to print that is a cylinder 1.000 in. in diameter and has a .200 in overhang starting at 1.300 in. In other words I am printing a 1.300 in. cylinder that is 1.500 in. tall that at 1.300 in. its diameter increases by .200 in. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I first printed the part the overhang had sunk or fallen out. Not by much and is still usable but made a crappy finish. What would I need to do in order to have the overhang not drop as the base layer extended outward .200 in. at 1.300 in.?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried slowing the feed rate but that was worse. I also lowered the temp to 195&amp;nbsp;°C.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am using a Monoprice Select Mini running at 200&amp;nbsp;°C and a 1.0 Speed (Not really sure what that feed rate is in terms of mm/s). Based on what I've seen so far I would increase the speed and keep the temp at 200&amp;nbsp;°C.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hif1O.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hif1O.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any suggestions, I hope I have explained my problem well enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18796" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-10-11T22:36:02.237" LastActivityDate="2019-10-11T22:36:02.237" Title="3D printing overhangs that are over .200 in" Tags="|print-quality|extrusion|support-structures|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11149" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11145" CreationDate="2019-10-11T07:51:23.730" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.dropbox.com/s/e1ab6p2s8j61w6q/Marlin.rar?dl=0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;link to the fork of Marlin&lt;/a&gt; you need to be sure that a bootloader is present before flashing, see &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.dropbox.com/s/e1ab6p2s8j61w6q/Marlin.rar?dl=0&amp;amp;file_subpath=%2FMarlin%2Fpins_MELZI_WYH.h&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;pins_MELZI_WYH.h&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;/**&#xA; * Melzi (WYH) pin assignments&#xA; *&#xA; * The WYH-128 board needs a bootloader installed before Marlin can be uploaded.&#xA; * If you don't have a chip programmer you can use a spare Arduino plus a few&#xA; * electronic components to write the bootloader.&#xA; *&#xA; * See http://www.instructables.com/id/Burn-Arduino-Bootloader-with-Arduino-MEGA/&#xA; */&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From this same pins layout file you can find hints to the usage of the &lt;code&gt;REPRAP_DISCOUNT_FULL_GRAPHIC_SMART_CONTROLLER&lt;/code&gt; display:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;// For the stock M18 use the REPRAP_DISCOUNT_FULL_GRAPHIC_SMART_CONTROLLER&#xA;//   option for the display in Configuration.h&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maybe you can use that one instead of the &quot;Mini VIKI&quot;. Though, an internet search, does hint to the &quot;Mini VIKI&quot; being the correct display for this printer, but it does look different from other Mini VIKI displays.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that in the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.dropbox.com/s/e1ab6p2s8j61w6q/Marlin.rar?dl=0&amp;amp;file_subpath=%2FMarlin%2FConfiguration.h&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Configuration.h&lt;/a&gt;, by default this display is not enabled as can be seen:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;// RepRapDiscount FULL GRAPHIC Smart Controller&#xA;// http://reprap.org/wiki/RepRapDiscount_Full_Graphic_Smart_Controller&#xA;//&#xA;//#define REPRAP_DISCOUNT_FULL_GRAPHIC_SMART_CONTROLLER&#xA;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-10-13T23:06:39.007" LastActivityDate="2019-10-13T23:06:39.007" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11150" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-10-11T09:19:07.563" Score="1" ViewCount="178" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hi guys I am quite new to 3D printing. I am having this problem with the printhead rising too high during printing when it gets near to the beds' borders. It isn't a problem with smaller prints but it gets very frustrating with bigger ones. I am thinking I am doing something wrong with the calibration but don't know exactly what. I am not calibrating by hand rather using auto calibrate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XkVQ6.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am using Cura 15.04.03 as slicer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18798" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-10-11T11:25:08.713" LastActivityDate="2019-12-06T19:33:01.197" Title="Anycubic Kossel Plus raises the Printhead around the corners of the bed too High if the print is too close to the corners" Tags="|print-quality|nozzle|kossel|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11151" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11148" CreationDate="2019-10-11T16:01:18.917" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The world of 3D Printers usually uses the metric system, especially in nozzle sizes. 0.2 inches are therefore better referred to as 5 mm, which is a considerable amount: that's 11 to 13 perimeters from a 0.4 mm nozzle, depending on extrusion width (0.46 and 0.4 mm respectively). Furthermore, the bore of the item isn't supported either, it is bridging.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To print overhangs and bridging without sagging, one should activate the generation of support material in the slicer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Generally speaking, PLA (judging from the print temperature) doesn't need to be printed with a raft and would be better served with a &lt;code&gt;brim&lt;/code&gt; for bed adhesion, unless you have a perforated bed. If you have to print in the shown orientation, then you should activate support generation in your slicer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For this part, however, there is a better solution: it is of very simple geometry and it doesn't have to be printed as shown but equally could be printed &quot;upside-down&quot; by being rotated around the X-Axis by 180° in the slicer. This has two benefits: it removes all unsupported overhangs an avoids support structure, making the wasted material pretty much nonexistent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I strongly recommend taking a look at my &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6726/what-special-considerations-must-be-taken-when-designing-parts-for-3d-printing/6830#6830&quot;&gt;3D Design Primer&lt;/a&gt; and the excellent question on &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10636/how-to-decide-print-orientation&quot;&gt;How to decide print orientation?&lt;/a&gt; and then delve into further reading: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/250/how-to-print-an-overhanging-arc&quot;&gt;How to print an overhanging arc&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/686/how-can-i-improve-the-overhang-angles-my-printer-can-successfully-print&quot;&gt;How can I improve the overhang angles my printer can successfully print?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/5529/is-there-any-setting-that-could-allow-me-to-print-this-overhang-without-support&quot;&gt;Is there any setting that could allow me to print this overhang without support?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2019-10-11T16:15:34.433" LastActivityDate="2019-10-11T16:15:34.433" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11152" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11148" CreationDate="2019-10-11T16:36:46.053" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It appears that your part could be printable upside down. If possible, I'd highly recommend this, as it mostly avoids supports all together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18800" LastActivityDate="2019-10-11T16:36:46.053" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11153" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-10-11T20:40:57.663" Score="7" ViewCount="206" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is it possible with the accuracy of current 3D printers to print a sound trace? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On a vinyl record the grooves in the record are an encoded sound. Is something like this doable with 3D printers? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If Vinyl-like isn't possible, could a sound be printed at desktop scale? I mean printing the waves out that if you ran your finger along it it would reproduce the encoded sound? Examples would be &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rumble_strip&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Rumble Strips&lt;/a&gt;, the &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Musical_road&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Musical Roads&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;https://english.stackexchange.com/questions/44069/what-are-the-treads-on-the-side-of-the-highway-called&quot;&gt;highway rumble strips&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18803" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2019-10-12T00:57:00.290" LastActivityDate="2019-10-15T19:20:57.417" Title="Is it possible with current 3D printers to print a sound trace?" Tags="|quality|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11154" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11153" CreationDate="2019-10-11T22:49:30.790" Score="7" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Sound Encoding basics&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sound is a compression wave, and any depiction of it has to be an encoding of it. You can encode it so you can recreate the sound using a contraption that oscillates in the right way to compress air again in the right pattern, but you can't just &amp;quot;print it out&amp;quot; like you can scale up a lightwave from the nanometer scale to a visible one as a representation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's take a simple example: a 440 Hz tune is generally considered to be the A&lt;sub&gt;4&lt;/sub&gt;, aka &lt;em&gt;concert pitch a&lt;/em&gt; or A440.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It could be encoded in a various ways. The probably oldest is to encode it as a note in violin notation, which then could be reproduced by anyone using a properly tuned instrument. The actual result depends on the instrument used as much as on the skill of the player. Each instrument thus might decode this encoded note differently, based on the physical setup of the instrument. Each instrument &lt;em&gt;automatically&lt;/em&gt; creates the appropriate overtones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ms9Vl.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ms9Vl.png&quot; alt=&quot;A440 encoded as a note&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In Midi, it is encoded as &lt;code&gt;Note 69&lt;/code&gt; and any machine that can decode a midi file could use this instruction, paired with an instrument to use, to create the A&lt;sub&gt;4&lt;/sub&gt; that is set for it. In Midi, the mere instruction of Note 69 does cut out skill, but how it sounds and feels comes from the instrument setup - which contains information about what overtones are to be created when playing this note.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a physicist, the pure sound is encoded as just the notion of &lt;code&gt;440 Hz&lt;/code&gt; and some amplitude to balance how loud it is. With those instructions, he'd be able to set up a device that has these creates a 440 Hz tune. To generate the sound and feel of an instrument, the encoding for a physicist would need to contain all the overtones that are to swing with this one sound.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cozUQ.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cozUQ.png&quot; alt=&quot;880 Hz overtone at 0.2 Amplitude and 440 Hz tone at 0.8 Amplitude&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;History of sound recording&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's look at the very first way of recording sound: The Phonautograph of 1857 used a piece of paper or a sheet of glass blackened and then a membrane move a needle. When the plate would be moved, the needle left a written path. The encoding was done via 2 factors: the setup of the stylus (mainly how long is the arm) and the speed of the movement of the plate. Changing either changed the encoding. A longer arm would record a larger amplitude (making fainter sounds recordable) while faster movement would alter the timescale recorded, allowing to look at short instances and better compare them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These vibration-pattern records could be used to measure and compare sounds but not be used to recreate the sound, as lines on paper nor scratches in soot are a good way to keep a reading needle in boundaries. it took till 2000 and the use of scanners as well as digital processing to recreate these recorded sounds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The solution to recreate sounds was found by the Edison Laps in 1877 with the phonograph, which used a piece of thick tinfoil to record the motion pattern of the membrane. Again, then encoding was done via the arm setup and the speed at which the tinfoil clad cylinder moved (or rather rotated). It would till the 1880s develop to a wax cylinder, which was easier to inscribe and reproduce from. One such machine was used by Carl Orff.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first Gramophone came in 1889, mainly altering the shape of the recording medium from cylinders to the well-known shape of vinyl records but made from hard plastics and shellac. Around 1901, a 12-inch gramophone disk held only a 4 minutes track, speaking volumes about the problems of encoding the complex patterns of sound onto a disk. At the same time, an Edison Amberol Cylinder held 4 minutes 30 seconds but would spin at 160 rpm. Soon after, celluloid would become the recording medium of its time, and the disk the de-facto &amp;quot;standard&amp;quot; as it was much better storable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In 1925 finally, a real standard was developed to record at around &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$78^{+0.26}_{-0.08}$&lt;/span&gt; rpm, which lead to only a 0.34 rpm difference between areas of 60 or 50 Hz mains voltage (though they needed different encoder rings), making records interchangeable between both machine types. All these recordings were encoded naturally: the vibrations of the membrane in the recording tool would be 1:1 transmitted to the vibrating stylus that would then do the encoding in such a way that a machine would reproduce what the recording one &amp;quot;heard&amp;quot; quite accurately.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When Vinyl came to the playing field as a recording medium at the end of world war II, so came a swap in the reading needle type: instead of a needle that would agitate a membrane directily, sapphire needles that would agitate an electrical pickup which in turn would activate a speaker. But while the recording technology advanced, the track length of a 12-inch disk was still limited to about 4 minutes at 78 rpm. It would only reach more than this in the last years of its use by applying LP technologies to pack the track tighter in the 1950s, achieving 17 minutes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1948 came the LP, what we know as a classic vinyl record. At its introduction it could cram 23 minutes onto one side, making this possible by only using 33.5 rpm as the recording speed and thinner, much tighter coiled groves, increasing the information density by a factor of 5.75 for a 12-inch disk. 7-inch 45 rpm &amp;quot;singles&amp;quot; came out 4 years later. Within 10 years, the 33.5 and 45 rpm encoded variants had almost completely replaced the 78 rpm market.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Vinyl&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As the history of analogous recordings shows, encoding a sound signal is rather easy in theory, hard in practice. A typical 12-inch &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.gzvinyl.com/About-vinyl.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;LP Vinyl record&lt;/a&gt; of 20 minutes is a grove that is  427 meters long and coiled up 667 times. That means a single groove is between 0.04 and 0.08 mm wide - with an equally thin wall between. That means, that to achieve a printed phonograph record, you'd have to print accurately down to 40 microns to get an &lt;em&gt;empty&lt;/em&gt; track. However, we also need to add the signal atop. And here comes the real problem:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An empty track has some 22 µm deviations, which the needle will usually not pick up at all. Dust, which creates the crackling at times, is in the same area (1-100 µm). The actual sound signal is encoded to have features as small as 75 nanometers. That is 3 magnitudes lower than the mere geometry of the grove, and equally much lower than any printer - including SLS - can achieve today, as 50 µm is often considered a lower limit in 2019.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To show how much tiny defects would ruin the sound quality, look at &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QDwN41Px_sY&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this rapid cast&lt;/a&gt; of a vinyl record. The resolution of the negative and the subsequently cast record is good enough to recognize the music, but the resin cast did contain so many gas bubbles that the noise level of the copy is very high.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bonus: Unlike on cylinders the encoding of the signal on disks changes from the start to the end! The vinyl spins at a constant rate, but the radius from the center changes, leading in the speed on any part of the grove to be different as &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$|v|=|\omega \vec r \sin(\theta)|$&lt;/span&gt;, where omega is the speed in rad per second, theta is the angle of the reeding, so in this case, the sinus term becomes 1 and vanishes. This factor has to be taken into account for encoding so the pitch of the record doesn't change if the record is not created naturally by inscribing the signal onto a spinning disk.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Other encoding&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Rumble Strips&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, it is quite easy to create a structure that creates sounds based on interaction with another body. Highway Sound Strips create sounds as the car tire bumps up and down, turning the car and tires into resonance bodies while the street &amp;quot;beats&amp;quot; upon it. In the case of a large percussion instrument like a car, we are talking centimeter scale.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Peg-Cylinder&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A very simple method would be to go back to encoding and check out the note notation but limiting the length of notes to one unit. Encoding music this way results in pegs or ridges on a cylinder, which then can be used to actuate a mechanism to decode the music and create sounds like in a music box. In a music box of this kind, the demand for accuracy is about 3 to 5 magnitudes lower than in vinyl records: we speak about a tenth of a millimeter to centimeter scale.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Such a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1094636&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Musical box&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/search?sort=relevant&amp;amp;q=noisemaker&amp;amp;type=things&amp;amp;dwh=955da117c1ada44&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;noisemaker&lt;/a&gt; can be easily printed and is pretty much a rumble strip coiled around a cylinder. The length of the sample is determined by the resolution, playback speed and diameter of the cylinder while the complexity is determined by the rows of pegs of it: a noisemaker is pretty much a 1-note, high speed, music box. Typically, one rotation stores about 25 to 30 seconds. Typical examples would be the first part of &lt;em&gt;Für Elise&lt;/em&gt;,  or the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IvUU8joBb1Q&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Marble Machine&lt;/a&gt; (Between second 30 and 35 the encoding wheel rotates 1 fifth). Some barrel organs also use the peg method, like one can &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4oRm1Dx5rDI&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;see here&lt;/a&gt;. With some trickery, one cylinder could be used to encode multiple parts that play one after another once a rotation is done by and silencing some parts of the machine depending on an extra encoder, like &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=suj-0GP7xzg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this 3-part &lt;em&gt;Für Elise&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/a&gt; music box.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mGLCG.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mGLCG.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Musical Box Core&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Hole-Plate(-strip)&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A different method would be to encode the music as holes in a continuous strip and use air as a decoding method. If the air then gets directed into pipes, we have a street organ. Typically, one would use a paper strip as the encoded message, but it could be printed just as well, especially if one uses a setup that uses plates hinged to one another instead of a rolled-up paper as in &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Tp5FpGrYWC0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this example&lt;/a&gt;. With such a way to stash away the extra length, the upper limit for music length rises from a couple of seconds to several minutes easily even with such a &amp;quot;bad&amp;quot; encoding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:29:41.667" LastActivityDate="2019-10-15T19:20:57.417" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11155" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-10-12T00:23:40.397" Score="3" ViewCount="102" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a XYZPrinting Da Vinci Mini W+ that I got for last Christmas. I am looking at the filaments available for it, since the included PLA is running 'low' (according to it) at 21 metres remaining. The one filament type that interested me the most is the Premium Metallic PLA. My question, that the website doesn't seem to answer, is how conductive is this material? Does it have any conductivity that would make it realistic to use to carry a current from something like an Arduino or Raspberry Pi, or is it too insulated, meant to only look metal, to act as a conductor?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Why I ask (Background - Not as Important)&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;I ask this, because of an idea I had. Printing a pretty low quality PCB type circuit. Instead of being forced to keep my circuits on breadboards with wires jumping from here and there, I would take a conductive layer and sandwich is between to insulating layers. If I wanted two trace layers, I'd do the following pattern (with I being insulating and C conductive) &quot;ICICI&quot;. Since I only can print in one filament type at a time, I'd print each layer in the thinnest thickness (1 micron, I believe), and have to fuse them together. I could do this in a few ways, using glue of some sort, or a hand-help filament pen to fuse the layers from the outside (the conductive layers would be slightly smaller, of course).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18805" LastActivityDate="2019-10-12T12:29:49.290" Title="XYZPrinting Premium Metallic PLA Conductivity" Tags="|filament|print-material|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11156" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11155" CreationDate="2019-10-12T00:31:21.203" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most PLAs are non-conductive: they contain little to no metal in comparison to plastic and can't make a conductive path. Even metallic PLA does not contain enough metal to be conductive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are some rare filaments that are conductive, they are sold as conductive PLA. I have yet to encounter a non-black conductive PLA.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One filament I suspect to be possibly conductive but have no hard evidence is made by The Vitual Foundry and contains about 80% metal. It is intended to be treated in the oven to burn out the plastic part, leaving behind a somewhat pure metal structure, but might be conductive without this process already. I have no experience with this and all my exposure to it was &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6528/3d-metal-printing/6623#6623&quot;&gt;this answer&lt;/a&gt;. It should be highly abrasive though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2019-10-12T12:29:49.290" LastActivityDate="2019-10-12T12:29:49.290" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11157" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="331" CreationDate="2019-10-12T17:57:25.783" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Another option, that I found was the simplest one that worked for me: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Level your bed using just the first nozzle (temporarily lock the 2nd nozzle higher than the 1st one).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Move the printhead at the center of the bed&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Loosen the grub screws on both nozzles (IMPORTANT, don't skip this step)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you're not using a glass bed, temporarily clip a sheet of glass on your bed.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Home the Z-Axis&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Move the the head sideways, front and back a few times just to be sure (X, Y)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Move the printhead back at the center&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lock the grub screws on both nozzles. Lock them slowly alternating between the top and bottom screws. Also make sure the wirings don't pull on the head (it's actually better if they push the nozzles down).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Relevel the bed, this time checking with the 2 nozzles&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The sheet of glass ensures a completely flat and solid surface, on top of your properly leveled bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Try the above in case nothing else works for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18812" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2019-10-13T11:08:01.643" LastActivityDate="2019-10-13T11:08:01.643" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11160" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11165" CreationDate="2019-10-13T14:54:44.200" Score="4" ViewCount="14940" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a collection of STL files, each containing a separate moving part of an object I want to print. (Imagine a set of gears, or similar, that prints as a single object with multiple moving parts.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My plan was to import them all into Cura, then hit print, then take my fully assembled object off the build plate. However, Cura ignores the coordinate system in the STL files and automatically separates the components from each other on the build plate. This is usually helpful, but it isn't what I want in this case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I'm looking for a quick and simple way to combine my multiple STL files into a single STL file. I know that the objects don't overlap, so I don't need to do a CSG union operation - it's enough just to concatenate the objects.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried OpenSCAD, which works, but it takes a really long time, because the meshes are fairly complex and it does the full Boolean operation. Is there another quick and simple way to perform this task?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd prefer a command line utility, but I'd also be happy if there's a quick and simple way to do it in some free graphical software. (However, I don't want to spend time manually positioning the objects - they're already in the right places in the STL files, so I just want to import them and go.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit&lt;/strong&gt; I've accepted Trish's answer (use Blender), but I'd still appreciate a command-line option if anyone knows one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="612" LastEditorUserId="612" LastEditDate="2019-12-20T11:39:53.800" LastActivityDate="2020-01-14T14:40:55.823" Title="Combining multiple STL files" Tags="|3d-models|software|stl|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11161" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11153" CreationDate="2019-10-13T15:20:13.993" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think this is just about doable. In this answer, I will assume you want to produce a &quot;rumble strip&quot; style of object that will reproduce a recording of human speech. I'll assume you don't care about sound quality, you just want the words to be intelligible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main things to consider are the printer's resolution, the size of the object to be printed, and the sample rate. Together, these factors determine the length of the sound, and the rate at which you need to move along it to reproduce the sound.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's start with sample rate. A CD has a sample rate of 44100 samples per second (Hz), but that might be a bit ambitious. Telephones use a lower sample rate of 8000, and it says &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.hitl.washington.edu/projects/knowledge_base/virtual-worlds/EVE/I.B.3.a.SoundSampling.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; that speech is still intelligible at a sample rate of 2500 Hz. Let's go with this rate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now let's consider the resolution of the printer. A typical nozzle size is 0.2mm, which probably limits the resolution to around that size, though you can probably do better with some care, and I imagine people in this community will be able to help with that. I am guessing that you would want to print the object horizontally, so you're dealing with xy resolution instead of z resolution. (Note that resin 3d printers have much better resolutions, so they might be ideal for this task, despite their smaller print volumes.) Let's start by assuming 0.2mm is our resolution, since this should be easy to achieve with any printer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This means that every sample in the sound file takes up about 0.2mm. Let's say we have one second of speech - that's long enough to say &quot;Hello!&quot;, for example - at 2500 Hz. That means we have 2500 samples. 2500 * 0.2mm = 500mm, so your rumble strip will be about 1/2 meter long. That's unlikely to fit on your print bed, but you can print it in sections and stick them together - you can probably print them all at the same time. You could even curl it round into a spiral, making it even more like a vinyl record.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then all you have to do is take a rigid object like a guitar pick and slide it along the strip at the right speed, so that it takes about 1 second. Then you should hear the sound played back. Attaching a resonator to the pick or the strip should increase the volume.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Increasing the resolution will decrease the length of the strip, or allow you to play a longer sound for the same length of strip, or increase the sample rate. E.g. if you can get a resolution of 0.1mm then you could play a 2 second sound instead, using the same 0.5m length of rumble strip.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In principle, creating the object is not hard, but I don't know any software that can do it out of the box. You just need to make the surface height correspond to the waveform. If I was doing this I would probably write a Python script to turn the wave file into a list of numbers, then paste those into in OpenSCAD's polygon function, which I would then extrude to make the object. But others might know an easier way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="612" LastEditorUserId="612" LastEditDate="2019-10-13T18:55:43.680" LastActivityDate="2019-10-13T18:55:43.680" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11162" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-10-13T16:46:04.653" Score="4" ViewCount="167" Body="&lt;p&gt;Really need some help. Let me run you through as much as possible.&#xA;I have a Replicator 2x. I've owned this for around 2 weeks now (used). after some teething issues I've been printing really well all week.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I left a print for the first time to run on its own and when I returned it had stopped after approx 10 % was still on and on the main menu screen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I removed the partial print and, since then, when I go to print or preheat it will reset near the maximum temperatures (230 °C extruder and 110 °C platform). Individually setting these, all achieve desired temperatures, and filament change still works.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I swapped the left-hand-side (LHS) extruder parts for the right-hand-side (RHS) and tried a reprint, same result.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I swapped the wiring at the board to use the LHS extruder wiring for the RHS. same.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Disconnected the stepper motors and same issue.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Reinstalled firmware; same result...&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It was running the MM2X (dual extrusion) upgrade, and I was supplied with the original extruder and thermocouples, spent afternoon swapping and this has the same issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By reset, the whole unit goes dark (LCD and LED), beeps and back to main menu.&#xA;It works with the bed unplugged, or the extruder heater unplugged, but not with both plugged in. Heard this being called brown out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm guessing its the Mightyboard or the power pack. All lights are green on the board during running. I have a multimeter and can test the board if known values or a guide location is available.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any help would be great, pulling my hair out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18817" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-07-16T17:33:42.050" LastActivityDate="2021-04-12T19:07:45.767" Title="Makerbot Replicator 2X - restarts after heating" Tags="|troubleshooting|calibration|makerbot|heat-management|makerbot-replicator2|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11165" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11160" CreationDate="2019-10-13T19:13:34.290" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;What you try to do is called &quot;Print in Place&quot;. However, it is not done by importing several STLs one after another as cura does remove the origin and recenters each imported object upon importing. However, an STL file can contain more than one body.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To generate a PiP model, you need to export your whole project as &lt;strong&gt;one&lt;/strong&gt; STL file containing all the parts and then Cura not only doesn't rip the model apart, it &lt;em&gt;can't&lt;/em&gt; do so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Workaround&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can't export the whole project in one piece from your design software, you could use a workaround by importing it into a software that can export as one item. Among these is blender, so importing all the parts into blender and then exporting the whole project as one STL is a simple fix. Other options would be TinkerCAD or Fusion360.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Step by step guide for blender is simple and the general idea of this workflow is the same for other options:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Open blender&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;New project&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;delete the cube via &lt;code&gt;entf&lt;/code&gt; + &lt;code&gt;enter&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Get the files into the workspace via either:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Drag &amp;amp; Drop&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;code&gt;File &amp;gt; Import &amp;gt; Stl (.stl)&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;select the file + &lt;code&gt;enter&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Possibly reposition the object, till it is in the right position&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Repeat 4. to 6. till all parts are imported&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;code&gt;File &amp;gt; Export &amp;gt; Stl (.stl)&lt;/code&gt; + &lt;code&gt;enter&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2019-12-20T11:43:10.490" LastActivityDate="2019-12-20T11:43:10.490" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11166" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-10-14T00:00:36.013" Score="5" ViewCount="536" Body="&lt;p&gt;Recently, after printing fine for several weeks, I've gone to load in white PLA filament into the right extruder on my FlashForge Creator Pro and the extruder is not pulling the white PLA filament through. The gears grab the filament and pull it down but it never makes it out the other end. I have successfully used this filament through this same extruder as recently as yesterday. The steps I have taken are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;• Remove the extruder motor and cleaned the gears. There was no noticeable issues or clogs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;• Turned the heat on and used the skinny metal unclogging tool that came with the printer to drive any excess filament out of the nozzle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;• Removed the nozzle and cleaned as best as I could. To be clear, this does not appear to be a nozzle clog because I have removed the nozzle, leaving the plastic tube that's under it in the extruder and I can run the unclogging tool all the way through the tube and out the top of extruder when the nozzle is not on. The line appears to be clear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;• I then tried to load the filament without the nozzle on (but with the plastic tube still in the extruder; which I confirmed in the last step does not have a clog in it). Same problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;• I unloading the black PLA filament from the left extruder and then took the white PLA filament (which wouldn't load into the right extruder) and tried to load it into the left one. Same problem. I then took the black PLA filament and went to load it back into the left extruder and it worked fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The white filament seems to be the problem but I cannot figure out what the problem would be. It's the same size as the black filament and the black filament works fine through the extruders that the white one does not. As mentioned, this filament worked fine yesterday.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I took the fan off and watched the filament get gripped by the motor gears and pulled down until it is entered into the hole below the motor. That is the point at which is gets stuck. It appears the filament simply is not being softened/melted enough to start feeding through the smaller hole.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I researched this and saw that this could be the result of a faulty reading by the machine due to thermocouple problems (?) but it seems doubtful now that I've tested successfully with black filament.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My settings are as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;FlashForge Creator Pro&lt;br&gt;&#xA;PLA Filament&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Extruder - 210C (I started a 200C but then increased)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any thoughts or pointers would be great. Thank you!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18731" LastEditorUserId="18731" LastEditDate="2019-10-14T00:24:16.827" LastActivityDate="2019-10-14T00:47:19.413" Title="PLA Filament Not Softening During Load w/ FlashForge Creator Pro" Tags="|pla|flashforge-creator|flashforge|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11167" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11166" CreationDate="2019-10-14T00:47:19.413" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;After all of this trial and error it was a simple solution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did not snip off the end of the filament after unloading. The filament had been tapered after unloading because of the way it was extruded previously. I don't know exactly why (please feel free to add to this answer) but when I made a clean cut on the end of the filament and then fed it through, it extruded with no problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18731" LastActivityDate="2019-10-14T00:47:19.413" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11169" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11160" CreationDate="2019-10-14T01:21:32.227" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The operation you want is &lt;em&gt;almost&lt;/em&gt; just cat'ing the files together. However you need to remove the 80 byte header from all but the first, and add up the 32-bit triangle count from each file immediately after that. Output should be:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Copy of first 80 bytes of file 1&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sum of int32 from offset 80 of each file.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bytes 84-end from each file.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/STL_(file_format)&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/STL_(file_format)&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2019-10-14T01:21:32.227" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11171" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11160" CreationDate="2019-10-14T06:20:07.857" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Similarly to @R..'s answer, you can easily concatenate the contents of each file if you have ASCII .stls.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Make sure the .stls are in ASCII format: Open them in any text editor (like Notepad++). If it's readable, you're fine, proceed to (3)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If not readable, convert them to ASCII .stl format using a converter tool (&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.meshconvert.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;like this&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Open each ASCII .stl file&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Copy together the contents of the files, except for the &quot;solid&quot; and &quot;endsolid&quot; statements where the files meet&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13171" LastActivityDate="2019-10-14T06:20:07.857" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11172" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6281" CreationDate="2019-10-14T09:03:06.240" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had this issue for a long time and finally I tried a super-simple hack. Attach a testlead from bed to PSU (which is grounded). Problem solved!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In other words: The Marlin firmware may be more &quot;sensitive&quot; than the original stock firmware, but it is not really a firmware issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/e3klX.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/e3klX.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18827" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2019-10-14T11:17:45.093" LastActivityDate="2019-10-14T11:17:45.093" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11173" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10785" CreationDate="2019-10-14T14:34:31.263" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;decrease retraction speed to 25-30mm/sec&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18832" LastActivityDate="2019-10-14T14:34:31.263" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11174" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-10-14T21:44:10.047" Score="3" ViewCount="1055" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found this question, &lt;a href=&quot;/q/10248&quot;&gt;CR-10 randomly pauses for a few seconds&lt;/a&gt;, that someone asked earlier. I am experiencing the &lt;em&gt;exact&lt;/em&gt; same thing, only on a CR-10S Pro. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;None of the suggestions on that post helped. For what it's worth, I am using  Ultimaker Cura 4.3. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any help would be wonderful! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I made this video for someone I know from Creality. The pausing seems to happen at each new layer. But, as the layers pass like 4 layers then the pausing stops. This also happens on every print big or small. I changed nothing and it just started happening. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/mTmnz4DuCoM?start=0&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Quoting my comment from the previous question:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I am seemingly having the same issue only on Cura 4.3. There is no&#xA;  &quot;Maximum Z Speed&quot; anywhere on 4.3 so how can I fix this? As talked&#xA;  about above I just checked my &quot;minimum layer time&quot; and it is set to&#xA;  10. I have also used another slicer and this same issue keeps happening it just messes up differently. I've also tried printing from&#xA;  SD card and OctoPrint. Same issue... How could this be my slicer if&#xA;  this same thing is happening on a different slicer than Cura?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18814" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2019-11-19T00:31:34.423" LastActivityDate="2019-11-19T00:31:34.423" Title="CR-10S Pro pausing and starting again" Tags="|z-axis|creality-cr-10|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11175" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11174" CreationDate="2019-10-15T10:25:35.017" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;From your comment on the linked question you state:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;As talked about above I just checked my &quot;minimum layer time&quot; and it is set to 10&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sub&gt;Note that Cura's default value is 5 seconds.&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This means that the print speed is lowered down to the minimum print speed to have layers that print for at least 10 seconds. When it cannot print slower (there is a minimum print speed) and the minimum layer time has not been reached yet, the print head halts until the time value is reached, then it continues. This behaviour is expected when the print area becomes small so that the time per layer drops under the 10 seconds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2019-10-15T10:25:35.017" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11176" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11177" CreationDate="2019-10-15T11:26:28.527" Score="6" ViewCount="10351" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I print with PLA, I get a perfect first layer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, when I print with PETG, the first layer looks like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pceRa.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pceRa.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've read all the info that suggests reducing the temp, speed, and increasing retraction... I've done all that which has improved things a lot, but I still get this... I can't seem to work out what's causing it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do I get a perfect first layer with PETG?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The latest settings that I've tried, and produced what you see in the picture are, using Cura 4.3 standard Dynamic Quality 0.16&amp;nbsp;mm profile with these tweaks:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Temp: 220&amp;nbsp;°C&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bed: 65&amp;nbsp;°C&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Retraction Distance: 10&amp;nbsp;mm (not that this would have any bearing on this flat first layer)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Print Speed: 40&amp;nbsp;mm/s&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One thought I had, does PETG need a different clearance between the nozzle and the bed than PLA?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15159" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-10-15T11:58:36.617" LastActivityDate="2021-06-18T04:00:37.977" Title="Bumpy first layer with PETG" Tags="|petg|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11177" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11176" CreationDate="2019-10-15T12:10:33.390" Score="5" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;One thought I had, does PETG need a different clearance between the nozzle and the bed than PLA?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Short answer: &quot;Yes, for some it does&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The results from your image are typically seen when the initial layer height for PETG is too small. PETG likes an additional gap on top of the usual that is used to print e.g. PLA.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For me personally I don't experience this general consensus (I've printed kilometers of PETG filament at 0.2 mm initial layer height at a glass bed with 3DLAC spray without any problems), but it is well known that if you print PETG (and if you experience problems) you need to increase the gap between the nozzle and the bed. From &lt;a href=&quot;https://rigid.ink/blogs/news/175700615-petg-filament-heres-what-you-need-to-know&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&quot;PETG Filament - Overview, Step-by-Step Settings &amp;amp; Problems Resolved&quot;&lt;/a&gt; posted on rigid.ink, you see that they (usually) advise an additional 0.02&amp;nbsp;-&amp;nbsp;0.05&amp;nbsp;mm gap:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3kvcx.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Additional 0.02&amp;nbsp;-&amp;nbsp;0.05&amp;nbsp;mm PETG gap&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3kvcx.png&quot; alt=&quot;Additional PETG gap&quot; title=&quot;Additional 0.02&amp;nbsp;-&amp;nbsp;0.05&amp;nbsp;mm PETG gap&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bottom line, if the normal gap doesn't work for you, increase the gap to see if that works better. Note that in some slicers you can add an offset in the slicer so that you do not have to do the releveling with a thicker paper (or if you are using auto-levelling). E.g. in Ultimaker Cura you can download a plugin (for recent Cura versions from the marketplace) from user &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/fieldOfView/Cura-ZOffsetPlugin&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;fieldOfView&lt;/a&gt; called &quot;Z Offset Setting&quot; to get the &lt;code&gt;Z Offset&lt;/code&gt; setting in the &lt;code&gt;Build Plate Adhesion&lt;/code&gt; section. You can also do a little trick in the G-code by redefining the height so that you can put this in a PETG start G-code or something.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-10-15T21:22:20.963" LastActivityDate="2019-10-15T21:22:20.963" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11178" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11181" CreationDate="2019-10-15T15:50:15.577" Score="5" ViewCount="4308" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is about practicality. I'm hearing that people are using their BLTouch not to adjust the Z offset, but as the limit switch for the machine! Why is this so? What are the pros and cons of using a BLTouch (or any touch sensor for that matter) in lieu of a physical limit switch?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(NB: I'm looking for objective reasons, where no other solution will do as opposed to personal preference reasons where people just like to use it).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12857" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-02-02T22:18:47.670" LastActivityDate="2021-06-21T13:33:24.023" Title="What are the pros and cons of using a BLTouch in place of a limit switch?" Tags="|z-axis|bltouch|homing|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11179" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11178" CreationDate="2019-10-15T17:37:00.800" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's cost.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Or it might be fragility -- there is a little overshoot, i.e. the time between when the Z-stop sensor(whatever type) indicates zero is reached and when the stepper motor actually shuts down. The standard lever-switch has plenty of flexibility and &quot;give&quot; but the BL Touch may not, and may be damaged if the gantry tries to move a couple hundred microns past &quot;true&quot; zero before stopping.  I would be cautious, depending on your budget, about trying it out. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2191" LastActivityDate="2019-10-15T17:37:00.800" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11180" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11153" CreationDate="2019-10-15T17:47:38.827" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here's an alternative which takes advantage of the relatively (!!)  high-precision layer capability of the 3D printer:  Make a lithopane strip and use an optical sensor to reproduce the sound.    &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is (was) done to encode the soundtrack for movies alongside the image frames in the film strip (reel).  Basically the thickness of the print at a given location modulates the optical throughput and thus the signal strength out of the photodetector.    &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that, as with movie reels, you will need a lot of real estate to record a decent amount of audio. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2191" LastActivityDate="2019-10-15T17:47:38.827" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11181" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11178" CreationDate="2019-10-15T21:51:37.840" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Touch sensors (or inductive or capacitive sensors) are generally used to probe the bed to determine the bed shape. For metallic beds that are not perfectly straight this works excellent. But, if your bed is straight and level (e.g. when you are using a straight slate of glass), you do not need to probe the surface as it is level. Instead you can use the probe to determine the Z level.&#xA;&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Pros&lt;/strong&gt; for a limit lever switch are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;simple and cheap mechanical switch&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;no firmware changes necessary&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;no or few soldering&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;already present on most bought printers&#xA;&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Cons&lt;/strong&gt; for a limit lever switch are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;needs fine adjustments counter part to work optimally&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;something can get in between the lever and counter part&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;it doesn't look cool&#xA;&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Pros&lt;/strong&gt; for a more sophisticated sensor:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;it can help with adhesion if the bed surface is deformed or dented&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;it looks cool&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;everybody is using it so it must be good&#xA;&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Cons&lt;/strong&gt; for a more sophisticated sensor:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;expensive and complicated sensor&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;requires firmware changes (e.g. sensor offset value)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;requires soldering, or connecting more cables&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;inductive and capacitive sensor work usually better at a higher voltage&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;higher chance of malfunctioning (more parts and electronics)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-06-21T13:16:05.377" LastActivityDate="2021-06-21T13:16:05.377" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11182" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11183" CreationDate="2019-10-16T05:39:49.663" Score="16" ViewCount="6191" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since I have a 3D printer, I worked primarily with printing ABS. I tried multiple methods for adhesion (various soluble glues, ABS juice) but always had the most success with hairspray on clean borosilicate glass, as long as I print with a bed temperature above 75&amp;nbsp;°C and inside an enclosure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I wonder, if it is known, why and based on which chemicals the hairspray method works so well? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18841" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2019-10-16T08:38:50.043" LastActivityDate="2023-03-23T01:11:52.787" Title="Why does hairspray work as an adhesive for ABS?" Tags="|fdm|adhesion|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11183" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11182" CreationDate="2019-10-16T06:53:19.517" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;First of all, not all hairsprays work. The chemicals in hairspray that causes the bonding is &amp;quot;VA/Crotonates Copolymer&amp;quot;, it is also called &amp;quot;vinyl acetate/crotonic acid copolymer&amp;quot;. Most commonly known as &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Polyvinyl_acetate&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;PVA&lt;/a&gt;, which is also a filament used as water soluble support material. This is a synthetic polymer created from monomers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When heated to a certain temperature this ingredient becomes sticky, this makes the filament stick to the plate. It is the double bonded Oxygen molecule that makes this happen. This is not only present in chemicals you put onto the bed, but also the chemistry of certain bed materials. Quoting our own &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/298/ryan-carlyle&quot;&gt;Ryan Carlyle&lt;/a&gt; from this thread, &lt;a href=&quot;https://groups.google.com/forum/#!msg/3dprintertipstricksreviews/jdk7W0gORo4/BI3CITWhIJ8J&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;A replacement for Aquanet Hair Spray?? Wolfbite by Airwolf&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most of the popular build surfaces have very similar underlying chemistry. That's because they all rely on diffusion welding for adhesion. The molecular chains at the interface slightly dissolve into each other.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Gluestick active ingredient - &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Polyvinylpyrrolidone&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Polyvinylpyrrolidone&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/771R5.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/771R5.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Aquanet and liquid PVA glue active ingredient - &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Polyvinyl_acetate&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Polyvinyl_acetate&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Pl1ub.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Pl1ub.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're familiar with organic chemistry, what you see here is an identical polyvinyl backbone chain, and functional groups that both have a ketone/ester double-bonded oxygen adjacent to a space-filling component. (The space-filling component probably decreases adhesion so the print can be released.) And guess what? Permanent build plate surfaces rely on the same underlying chemistry:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lexan also has exposed double-bonded oxygen on a polymer backbone: &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Polycarbonate&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Polycarbonate&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nZHlZ.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nZHlZ.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Kapton also has exposed double-bonded oxygen on a polymer backbone: &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kapton&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kapton&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ItRiH.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ItRiH.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Acrylic also has exposed double-bonded oxygen on a polymer backbone: &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Poly(methyl_methacrylate)&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Poly(methyl_methacrylate)&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JIKbk.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JIKbk.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PET also has exposed double-bonded oxygen on a polymer backbone: &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Polyethylene_terephthalate&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Polyethylene_terephthalate&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Id5Jv.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Id5Jv.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, if you look at some common solvents for filaments, what do you often see? Double-bonded oxygen on small molecules. Here's ethyl acetate (dissolves PLA) and acetone (dissolves ABS):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EKBOF.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EKBOF.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Sttnk.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Sttnk.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These molecules are still diffusing into the filament polymer, but they're so small and mobile that they are able to completely liquefy and dissolve the plastic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Isn't chemistry great?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:29:41.667" LastActivityDate="2019-10-16T07:14:32.640" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11184" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1109" CreationDate="2019-10-16T12:45:23.013" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://twitter.com/toms3dp?lang=en&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Thomas Sanladerer&lt;/a&gt; performed exactly the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=il9bNWn66BY&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;comparison you ask&lt;/a&gt;. Check the whole video.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The result is that inductive sensors are the most accurate, but they are highly dependent on the bed material chosen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mechanical switches (bare, no metallic arm) are about as accurate and keep the same accuracy with every bed material (however you need a mechanism to retract them, which may or may not decrease the accuracy).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other sensors are less accurate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In any case, most of them are already far better than required, since anything below 50 microns is fine and basically all of them reach that accuracy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Choose based on other factors such as weight, installation, price. Inductive, after a calibration based on your specific bed, may be the easiest since they need no retraction, but they are bulky. BLtouch is probably the second choice, mechanical microswitches the third one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2338" LastActivityDate="2019-10-16T12:45:23.013" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11185" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8705" CreationDate="2019-10-16T23:00:41.470" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Definitely the corner of your bed where print was worse is slightly unleveled (a little too low), because if you look the hole, it has artifacts too, probably because the nozzle was depositing the melted filament from a higher distance than on the &quot;good&quot; part.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can see later in that hole, that the layers finally catch up with the rest, so:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You need to correct the bed leveling on that corner (too low)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, the better part doesn't look right either. You can see the ring around the good hole doesn't close because the filament din't stick at the beginning of the circular movement. Plus, your first layer should be smoother than that, not wormy-like.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To experiment how to get a better first layer you need to tweak in very small amounts:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The first layer height (I may need to be lower for you)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The temperature (I don't think you need more temp for your first layer, probably the fans start blowing after the second layer anyways)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The % of extruded material (you may increase it in very small amounts only for the first layer [and only after a lower layer height didn't worked])&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The speed of the first layer (it may need to be lower. imagine your nozzle is trying to print with chewing gum and what would happen if speeds are too high, PLA has a rubbery consistency when melted)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Be sure the surface is clean&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Dust and oils from manipulation on certain spots can cause the filament not to stick, even when you think is clean. I use alcohol when printing on a bare surface, change the masking tape, or use just a paper towel (when I'm using PEI sheet)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If that doesn't give you a a better first layer, but it is at least even, you will need to adjust your z-axis offset or level the entire bed up a little.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18852" LastActivityDate="2019-10-16T23:00:41.470" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11186" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-10-17T00:04:54.390" Score="6" ViewCount="286" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was trying to print parts for a small CD-ROM drive based plotter based on this thing &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3521286&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3521286&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But as tolerances are very small and need to match the existing parts, I realized that my printed parts are actually a little bigger, I made a test with a part like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;   _                          _&#xA; /   \                      /   \&#xA; \  .------------------------. ___&#xA;    | [O]________________[O] |  ^&#xA;    | |                    | |  |&#xA;    | |                    | |  |&#xA;    | |                    | |  |&#xA;    | |  |&amp;lt;--- 62mm ----&amp;gt;| | |  |&#xA;    | |                    | | 70mm&#xA;    | |                    | |  |&#xA;    | |                    | |  |&#xA;    | |                    | |  |&#xA;    | |                    | |  |&#xA;   _| [O]________________[O] | _v_&#xA; /  '------------------------'  \&#xA; \ _ /                      \ _ /&#xA;&#xA;Side View:&#xA;&#xA;      [X]                [X]&#xA; ___[XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX]____&#xA;&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A squared and mouse-eared frame with two protruding 4mm cubes on each corner with inner distances of 62mm and outer of 70mm between each adjacent cubes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I discovered that, after measuring many times and averaging distances, my model printed 0.227..% larger.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've heard of shrinkage factor for ABS or Nylon, and people compensate scaling their models while slicing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But what about PLA?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Im using:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Anet A8&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Stock marlin firmware (not the Anet one)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Flashforge natural PLA 1.75mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;0.4mm Nozzle&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;0.2mm layer height&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;0.4mm line width&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;210ºC extrusion temp&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;60ºC Bed temp&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;40mm/s print speed&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fusion 360, Cura 2.7 or 4.3 and Octoprint.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The printed model is pretty flat, has no curvatures or artifacts either.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Would this be an error of constants on my printer a known artifact from PLA?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18852" LastEditorUserId="18852" LastEditDate="2019-10-17T23:11:11.417" LastActivityDate="2019-10-21T08:50:00.950" Title="PLA printings always ~0.22% larger" Tags="|pla|slicing|anet-a8|scaling|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="14" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11187" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11200" CreationDate="2019-10-17T16:28:29.920" Score="-1" ViewCount="1456" Body="&lt;p&gt;We are attempting to print some single-use prototypes using an SLS printer. The parts must be somewhat water-resistant for short-term usage, but do not have to been waterproof entirely. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to this page, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.3dhubs.com/knowledge-base/post-processing-sls-printed-parts/#water&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Post processing for SLS printed parts - Water tightness&lt;/a&gt;, any silicone type or vinyl-acrylate sealant should work well, but I was hoping that the Stack users here might have some specific suggestions. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anybody have specific recommendations for sealing SLS prints?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18860" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2019-10-17T18:30:00.053" LastActivityDate="2023-12-27T21:07:00.843" Title="Sealant to increase Water-Resistance of SLS print" Tags="|post-processing|sls|water-resistance|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="12" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11191" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-10-18T08:16:14.143" Score="5" ViewCount="333" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am printing using an Ender3 Pro with eSUN PLA+ 215/45 and I am getting this issue on two corners, the other two corners look fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any idea on what can be causing this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bad corners&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kr4VD.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Bad corners&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kr4VD.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Bad corners&quot; title=&quot;Bad corners&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The good corners&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ras6V.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Good corners&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ras6V.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Good corners&quot; title=&quot;Good corners&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18865" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2019-10-18T08:38:00.157" LastActivityDate="2023-08-04T09:09:03.747" Title="Issue on 2 corners but not the other 2" Tags="|creality-ender-3|pla+|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11192" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11186" CreationDate="2019-10-18T09:09:48.137" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6968/slicer-line-width-vs-extrusion-multiplier-for-layer-adhesion&quot;&gt;You are not taking into account die swell&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When printing with a 3D printer hot plastic is forced through a nozzle, which leads to the expansion of the material. The result is, that with 0.4 mm nozzle and 0.4 mm intended line width, the material will actually deposit some fraction of a millimeter wider. In your test case, that is 0.22%. If you'd print a double-sized test piece, I expect 0.11%, and in case of a half-sized 0.44% - in other words, it is a static offset.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because of this, it is usually better to demand wider lines than the nozzle is, forcing the die swell effect to become negligible in the wider line. I managed this with about 110% of the nozzle width on my machines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Further Reading: &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6965/why-is-it-conventional-to-set-line-width-nozzle-diameter&quot;&gt;Why is it conventional to set line width &amp;gt; nozzle diameter?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastActivityDate="2019-10-18T09:09:48.137" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11193" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11230" CreationDate="2019-10-18T09:17:53.320" Score="4" ViewCount="7360" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Creality Ender 3, I've had it for just under 2 years and during a print one morning it suddenly stopped and powered itself off. After checking the fuse and other electronic components it still didn't power on. I purchased a new switch as I thought the problem was there but after replacing it is still did not turn on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The printer has been working fine and there were no visible or audible anomalies. I urgently need this to be fixed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QLW3W.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QLW3W.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GFy80.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GFy80.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CeXFq.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CeXFq.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18867" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2019-10-18T19:38:14.533" LastActivityDate="2019-10-23T21:01:09.943" Title="Ender 3 Power Problem: Not starting up" Tags="|creality-ender-3|power-supply|repair|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11194" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-10-18T14:26:29.653" Score="5" ViewCount="57" Body="&lt;p&gt;As you can see from the picture, the part is good except some missing layers near the bottom. I have tried to search for this problem but nothing similar appeared. So, what might be the cause and what is the name for this problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gf7ka.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Photo showing print issue&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gf7ka.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Photo showing print issue&quot; title=&quot;Photo showing print issue&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Printer: Ender3, new.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Slicer: Cura&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Nozzle: 0.4&amp;nbsp;mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Temperature: &#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;200&amp;nbsp;°C nozzle&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;50&amp;nbsp;°C bed&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Material: PLA&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Print speed: 50&amp;nbsp;mm/s&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18871" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2019-10-18T19:37:01.547" LastActivityDate="2019-10-18T19:37:01.547" Title="The part printed correctly except few layers" Tags="|print-quality|creality-ender-3|print-failure|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11196" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11194" CreationDate="2019-10-18T19:36:12.177" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This looks like either the nozzle had been clogged for some layers and it resolved itself or the g-code contained incorrect instructions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suggest altering your print settings slightly and reslicing, then just printing it again. To get more accuracy on the prints, I suggest a line width of 0.45 mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastActivityDate="2019-10-18T19:36:12.177" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11197" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11198" CreationDate="2019-10-19T07:59:20.990" Score="20" ViewCount="4640" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm using Cura to slice my prints. I've noticed that when printing the bottom layer (and also the top layer, if it's flat), it first prints three walls, then fills in the middle by moving back and forth in straight lines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've noticed that for my parts, the walls look much nicer than the zig-zag pattern in the middle, and it also seems that the zig-zag part detaches from the bed quite easily, whereas the walls don't.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My parts would look much better, and possibly also stick better to the bed, if I set the number of walls to 100 or so, so that the parts would be entirely filled in with walls. But then the parts would be completely solid, which isn't what I want. So what I want to achieve is that the bottom layer (and if possible also the top layer) are printed as if the part was composed entirely of walls, but the other layers are printed with three walls as normal. Is this possible in Cura?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="612" LastActivityDate="2019-10-20T20:31:48.953" Title="In Cura, can I make my top and bottom layer be all perimiters?" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11198" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11197" CreationDate="2019-10-19T08:07:13.893" Score="18" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found the answer myself just after posting - I'm posting it because it might be helpful to other Cura novices.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a setting for this, it's just that it's not shown by default. In print settings, you have to click on the three lines next to the search box, and select &quot;Show All Settings&quot;. Then you can find a setting called &quot;Top/Bottom Pattern&quot;. Setting this to &quot;concentric&quot; does what I described. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Actually this setting affects not just the top and bottom layers, but all layers that are part of the top and bottom shell. This seems like a good thing, but if you really want to affect &lt;em&gt;just&lt;/em&gt; the bottom layer, there's a setting &quot;Bottom Pattern Initial Layer&quot; that does this. There is also a setting under &quot;Experimental&quot; called &quot;Top Surface Skin Pattern&quot; that I think does the same for just the top layer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition to &quot;Concentric&quot; there is also a &quot;Zig Zag&quot; option that's quite similar to the default &quot;Lines&quot; mode.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also change the visibility of settings in the preferences menu, to make these settings show up by default.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="612" LastEditorUserId="612" LastEditDate="2019-10-19T08:12:22.927" LastActivityDate="2019-10-19T08:12:22.927" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11199" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11262" CreationDate="2019-10-19T10:21:52.463" Score="3" ViewCount="209" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have made some prints with the Ultimaker 2+ and Ultimaker 2 Extended+. The prints are in PLA. For slicing, I use Cura and I check the support checkbox (haven't gone to advanced settings to adjust support yet). I can clearly see that there is a little space between the support and the print. The supports often look like long pillars and such. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question then is: &quot;What is the best technique for removing the support?&quot;. Is it to use a knife, pliers or perhaps PLA-water? Is it possible to use PLA-water to remove support when printed with Ulitmaker 2+ or is that just the Ultimaker 3? What type of technique would give a good looking print?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ultimaker 3 has &lt;a href=&quot;https://ultimaker.com/materials/pva&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;support filament that's water-soluble&lt;/a&gt;. Is there something similar for Ultimaker 2+? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18856" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-10-29T22:32:05.140" LastActivityDate="2019-11-02T12:17:59.170" Title="Technique for removing support from Ultimaker 2+?" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|pla|support-structures|ultimaker-2|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11200" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11187" CreationDate="2019-10-19T11:03:14.790" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;SLS prints from nylon are somewhat porous. This means, that they will let a stabilizer soak into the outer surface to some degree.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What kind of stabilizer is needed is depending somewhat on the properties you want, but generally I believe these might be useable depending on the viscosity:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2-component resins could be used, but they are usually very viscous. Their viscosity, however, is dependent on the exact type and mixture and could be altered by temperature.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1-component (&lt;em&gt;air-hardening&lt;/em&gt;) resins or resin lacquers can be thinned to achieve a solution into which the item is then dunked and dripped off. How much thinner is adviseable depends on the exact material&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Nitrocellulose lacquer, like it is used in guitar building, is extremely fluid and could be used for treatment via dunking.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;PU lacquer could be used too.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2019-12-18T13:28:48.507" LastActivityDate="2019-12-18T13:28:48.507" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11201" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11208" CreationDate="2019-10-19T11:44:15.940" Score="3" ViewCount="101" Body="&lt;p&gt;When printing a big base on the bed, I got no warping, but once I print small part (3 or less inches wide), there is a bit of warping on my piece as I remove it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gHdZH.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Example print&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gHdZH.png&quot; alt=&quot;Example print&quot; title=&quot;Example print&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is 2 inches wide by 1&amp;nbsp;mm thick by the base. It seems to be well sticked to the bed while printing, but once removed, it bends a bit. I tried multiple times and it bends at a different place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was wondering if it may be thicker if it won't bend at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can you guys help me with it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here my Slic3r settings:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;# generated by PrusaSlicer 2.1.0+win64 on 2019-10-19 at 11:38:38 UTC&#xA;avoid_crossing_perimeters = 0&#xA;bed_temperature = 60&#xA;bottom_fill_pattern = rectilinear&#xA;bottom_solid_layers = 7&#xA;brim_width = 5&#xA;cooling = 1&#xA;end_filament_gcode = &quot;; Filament-specific end gcode \n;END gcode for filament\n&quot;&#xA;end_gcode = M104 S0 ; turn off temperature\nG28 X0 Y0 ; home X and Y axis\nG1 Z210 F5000 ; Send Z to top\nM84     ; disable motors\n&#xA;ensure_vertical_shell_thickness = 1&#xA;external_perimeter_extrusion_width = 0.45&#xA;external_perimeter_speed = 50%&#xA;extrusion_multiplier = 1&#xA;extrusion_width = 0.45&#xA;fan_always_on = 1&#xA;filament_diameter = 1.75&#xA;filament_settings_id = &quot;FlyingBear Ghost 4&quot;&#xA;filament_type = PLA&#xA;fill_angle = 45&#xA;fill_density = 20%&#xA;fill_pattern = stars&#xA;first_layer_bed_temperature = 65&#xA;first_layer_extrusion_width = 0.42&#xA;first_layer_height = 0.2&#xA;first_layer_speed = 30&#xA;first_layer_temperature = 200&#xA;infill_extrusion_width = 0.45&#xA;infill_overlap = 25%&#xA;infill_speed = 80&#xA;layer_height = 0.1&#xA;nozzle_diameter = 0.4&#xA;perimeter_extruder = 1&#xA;perimeter_extrusion_width = 0.45&#xA;perimeter_speed = 45&#xA;print_settings_id = FlyingBear Ghost 4&#xA;printer_settings_id = FlyingBear Ghost 4&#xA;printer_technology = FFF&#xA;retract_before_travel = 1&#xA;retract_before_wipe = 0%&#xA;retract_layer_change = 1&#xA;retract_length = 0.8&#xA;retract_length_toolchange = 10&#xA;retract_lift = 0&#xA;retract_lift_above = 0&#xA;retract_lift_below = 209&#xA;retract_restart_extra = 0&#xA;retract_restart_extra_toolchange = 0&#xA;retract_speed = 40&#xA;seam_position = aligned&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As I said, I got no problem adhering to the bed, it's when I remove it from the bed it becomes deformed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18678" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2019-10-21T13:44:42.500" LastActivityDate="2019-10-21T13:44:42.500" Title="How to get rid of deforming small prints?" Tags="|slic3r|warping|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11202" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11203" CreationDate="2019-10-19T11:54:53.300" Score="3" ViewCount="402" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've made low-poly objects using Reduce function in Meshmixer. My objects are symmetric and I want to keep the symmetry in the low-poly because it's more beautiful, But the software doesn't necessary keep the symmetry.&#xA;using mirror function results in losing flat faces and many problems...&#xA;Is there any specific way to make a symmetric low-poly?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13700" LastActivityDate="2019-10-19T14:09:58.767" Title="How to make symmetric Low-Poly objects in meshmixer?" Tags="|3d-models|stl|meshmixer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11203" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11202" CreationDate="2019-10-19T14:09:58.767" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The best way would be to follow a four-step workflow:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Reduce complexity.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cut the object along the symmetry plane.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Discard one half of the object.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mirror the cut object along the cut symmetry plane.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastActivityDate="2019-10-19T14:09:58.767" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11204" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11186" CreationDate="2019-10-20T02:37:24.430" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are several ways to try and adjust for this effect of squashing the material, which is ultimately about having enough space for the material you lay down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As mentioned:&#xA;You can try to pre-scale models (not very effective as a general solution because it is a function of the model and how many adjacent layers your material is forcing)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can up the line width.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your software allows, you can input a slightly larger filament diameter to lay a bit less material. (Wanted to stress this one as it's been pretty useful for me)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are intentionally undershooting the volume by some percentage via the filament diameter, it may help to play with the layer height to control the end result of the line's cross section.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've had good results with a combination of the latter three (basically comes down to calibrating the printer to get settings for your desired material spool, and level of detail -&gt; sizes of line and layer for the print)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18883" LastEditorUserId="18883" LastEditDate="2019-10-20T12:59:11.647" LastActivityDate="2019-10-20T12:59:11.647" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11205" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-10-20T02:47:24.167" Score="2" ViewCount="38" Body="&lt;p&gt;On my TAZ Pro, after modifying and reinstalling my build surface, I have the following verbose output from running self-calibration:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;&amp;gt; [21:30:51] G29 V4&#xA;&amp;lt; [21:30:53] G29 Auto Bed Leveling&#xA;&amp;lt; [21:31:01] Bed X: -10.000 Y: -9.000 Z: -0.010&#xA;&amp;lt; [21:31:11] Bed X: 288.000 Y: -9.000 Z: -1.347&#xA;&amp;lt; [21:31:21] Bed X: 288.000 Y: 291.000 Z: -0.937&#xA;&amp;lt; [21:31:31] Bed X: -10.000 Y: 291.000 Z: -0.061&#xA;&amp;lt; [21:31:31] 4th probe point, distance from plane: 0.46&#xA;&amp;lt; [21:31:31] Eqn coefficients: a: -0.00371342 b: 0.00059800 d: -0.15685220&#xA;&amp;lt; [21:31:31] Mean of sampled points: -0.58869988&#xA;&amp;lt; [21:31:31] &#xA;&amp;lt; [21:31:31] Bed Height Topography:&#xA;&amp;lt; [21:31:31]   +--- BACK --+&#xA;&amp;lt; [21:31:31]   |           |&#xA;&amp;lt; [21:31:31] L |    (+)    | R&#xA;&amp;lt; [21:31:31] E |           | I&#xA;&amp;lt; [21:31:31] F | (-) N (+) | G&#xA;&amp;lt; [21:31:31] T |           | H&#xA;&amp;lt; [21:31:31]   |    (-)    | T&#xA;&amp;lt; [21:31:31]   |           |&#xA;&amp;lt; [21:31:31]   O-- FRONT --+&#xA;&amp;lt; [21:31:31] (0,0)&#xA;&amp;lt; [21:31:31] +0.52750 -0.34810&#xA;&amp;lt; [21:31:31] +0.57910 -0.75850&#xA;&amp;lt; [21:31:31] &#xA;&amp;lt; [21:31:31] &#xA;&amp;lt; [21:31:31] Corrected Bed Height vs. Bed Topology:&#xA;&amp;lt; [21:31:31] +0.00001 +0.23100&#xA;&amp;lt; [21:31:31] +0.23101 +0.00000&#xA;&amp;lt; [21:31:31] &#xA;&amp;lt; [21:31:31] &#xA;&amp;lt; [21:31:31] &#xA;&amp;lt; [21:31:31] Bed Level Correction Matrix:&#xA;&amp;lt; [21:31:31] +0.999993 +0.000000 -0.003713 &#xA;&amp;lt; [21:31:31] +0.000002 +1.000000 +0.000598 &#xA;&amp;lt; [21:31:31] +0.003713 -0.000598 +0.999993 &#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I evaluate whether this is a reasonable result, or if it means something is broken and needs to be fixed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(I'm definitely seeing very significant variances in actual distance between the head and the build surface with the same &quot;Z height&quot; according to the LCD controller; I'm trying to determine whether this could be a bed-leveling issue).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16371" LastActivityDate="2019-10-20T02:47:24.167" Title="How far off-plane of a 4th-corner probe should be cause for concern during bed leveling?" Tags="|marlin|calibration|lulzbot|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11206" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11191" CreationDate="2019-10-20T02:56:04.560" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Looks like it treated those corners a bit differently in the slice routine.  Normally something like this different treatment would be too slight to matter, but (probably due to the slight overhang?) it appears to have caused some layers to not adhere to the bottom ones and get pulled along to a different shape (red line in image).  (Be sure to check some general layer adhesion/overhang topics too.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd try increasing the infill there (and using honeycomb style infill) or even using a cad software to hollow the interior to essentially a desired infill before slicing if the current infill is important elsewhere.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Moving slower, Increasing the temperature a bit, and/or extruding more material per line and layer if the layer adhesion is due to the slight overhang (although it looks pretty small).&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WjGW7.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18883" LastEditorUserId="18883" LastEditDate="2019-10-20T03:07:10.297" LastActivityDate="2019-10-20T03:07:10.297" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11208" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11201" CreationDate="2019-10-20T10:14:42.203" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Pla is flexible and can be shaped at temperatures as low as 50 deg C. To prevent deforming your prints in removing them, you should wait for the bed to reach room temperature. This takes about 5 minutes after a print ended.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastActivityDate="2019-10-20T10:14:42.203" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11209" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11162" CreationDate="2019-10-20T13:28:57.623" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&quot;Im guessing its the mightyboard or the power pack.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Right track there.&#xA;Usually this symptom suggests your heaters are overtaxing your power supplies.&#xA;Since you swapped extruders already, the heating elements and sensors in those are not likely to be an issue.  That leaves the bed heating element and power supply.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A resistance measurement can help rule out the bed heater but since it works without the extruder, its probably not a severe issue there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I had to guess, I'd say power supply.  If you can, rig up a meter to measure its output and cause the issue.  If the voltage drops drastically in tune with your screen going dark, try to replace with a beefier (higher amperage) one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18883" LastActivityDate="2019-10-20T13:28:57.623" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11210" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-10-20T18:43:55.220" Score="4" ViewCount="148" Body="&lt;p&gt;Recycling a Robin Nano board to build a 3D printer using an old computer PSU (300 W), it only boots on when I have no endstops pugged in at all or if I trigger all the ones I have plugged. At the moment I release them the screen goes off (but the fan of the PSU is still on). Does anyone have any clue about what's going on ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14785" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2019-11-22T23:19:09.717" LastActivityDate="2019-11-22T23:19:09.717" Title="My DIY printer only boots when all my endstops are triggered. Why is that?" Tags="|diy-3d-printer|endstop|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11211" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11197" CreationDate="2019-10-20T20:31:48.953" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The latest Cura that I have (4.2.1) includes &quot;Ironing&quot; in its options.  When I enabled this, it prints the top layer twice.  The first time with extrusion and the second time with just a little bit of extrusion (default is 10%) at 90 degrees to the first one.  This effectively &quot;irons out&quot; the zig-zag pattern giving you a nice smooth top to your parts.&#xA;I was very impressed at how well this works (YMMV of course :-) ).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18892" LastActivityDate="2019-10-20T20:31:48.953" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11212" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11216" CreationDate="2019-10-21T03:18:12.477" Score="6" ViewCount="2610" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an Epax X1, I have just purchased the 2nd and 3rd bottle of resin, but I don't know what are the best settings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the best way to find the best settings for a new resin?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it possible to print a calibration object that starts with some settings and changes as it goes? For example starts with 12 seconds and decreases half second every 5 mm?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The 2 resins I am dealing with right now are &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B0794RQPJ5&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Nova3D&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B07FCMM2S7&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Elegoo&lt;/a&gt;. Any help with those two resins would help right now, but I would love to have a more generic answer that would allow me to explore and troubleshoot any resin without asking every time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18857" LastEditorUserId="18857" LastEditDate="2019-10-22T02:25:30.113" LastActivityDate="2019-10-25T18:38:55.293" Title="How do I find the best settings for a resin?" Tags="|resin|dlp|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11213" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11186" CreationDate="2019-10-21T08:50:00.950" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cura has a fixed offset called &quot;horizontal expansion&quot;, which can be set negatively. This way you can hardcode a -0.1mm offset for example. It worked for me where holes got too small and pegs got too thick. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4708" LastActivityDate="2019-10-21T08:50:00.950" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11214" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11215" CreationDate="2019-10-21T12:48:55.383" Score="1" ViewCount="251" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is GRBL-related. I have a laser-engraver type machine, Chinese, ~550 mm X axis, aluminium extrusions, 2mm-pitch T belt, Nema 17H3430 motors, one mechanical homing switch for X, Arduino-based.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The X-axis accuracy is not up to par. When I make a mark on the X axis and jog to that mark (after homing), depending on the day, the position varies within ~4 mm or so. Sometimes I have to use G00 X-418, others G00 X-422.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I checked the belt tension, it seems OK, not too tight, not too loose. Is there something else I should check?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another idea I have: put a homing switch on the other end of the X-axis, then home both ends of the X-axis, measuring the difference in machine position, then modify the steps/mm value for each session to force the command that puts me on the mark to be constant (e.g. G00 X-420). Any other ideas? Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14316" LastEditorUserId="14316" LastEditDate="2019-10-21T14:12:35.537" LastActivityDate="2019-10-22T04:52:20.767" Title="GRBL: inaccurate on X axis by ~4 mm on 400 mm" Tags="|laser|arduino|linear-motion|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11215" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11214" CreationDate="2019-10-21T13:56:28.597" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This seems to be either a case of either belt slop or missed steps or it is a case of the accuracy of the limit switch. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the limit switch moves even a little into either direction, you have to account twice that as the maximum error. So the 4 mm error could come from 2 mm into either direction from the 0-position.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, there is a silver lining: Laser engraving, just like CNC, usually first dials in the 0 regarding the workpiece instead of the 0 of the machine. As long as the machine's movement is ok, you should be fine even without tightening the mounting of the X-endstop. I suggest to run the following test to find out what kind of error actually hounds you though:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mount a waste piece&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Go to a position on the workpiece&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Run the laser for a split second&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;code&gt;X10&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Run the laser for a split second&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Repeat 4&amp;amp;5 till you have 10 points&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Measure the real distances between the dots engraved&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the distances are always the same but short, you have the wrong steps/mm set and need to adjust them accordingly. If the distances are inconsistent, you have either lost steps or a sloppy belt. To fight lost steps, carefully up the signal to the motor a little. If the results don't change from that, tighten the belt a little - it should sing like a guitar string.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastActivityDate="2019-10-21T13:56:28.597" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11216" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11212" CreationDate="2019-10-21T15:33:56.990" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since every printer is slightly different (light intensity, for example), you probably want to run one of those 12-spot test patterns where each &quot;spot&quot; gets a different exposure time, then see what time works best.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found a more general test pattern at &lt;a href=&quot;https://ameralabs.com/blog/town-calibration-part/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Amerilabs Calibration File&lt;/a&gt; which may be useful. Not to mention &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.yeggi.com/q/dlp+calibration/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;a zillion other test patterns &lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2191" LastActivityDate="2019-10-21T15:33:56.990" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11218" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11219" CreationDate="2019-10-21T16:41:55.947" Score="6" ViewCount="6158" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an Ender 3 Pro with upgraded Bowden capricorn tube. The tube will move approximately 1-2&amp;nbsp;mm during normal operation, though it will not come out of the coupler at all. I have read that the movement if unchanging (constant movement of 1-2&amp;nbsp;mm) can be compensated for with settings adjustment to avoid retraction issues such that it will extrude or retract &quot;that much less&quot;... I do not understand how this is possible...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Im confused by comments that a slipping Bowden tube on the extruder side &lt;em&gt;only&lt;/em&gt;, say by up to 2&amp;nbsp;mm, is &quot;lost retraction&quot;... I have this problem too with the Bowden tube &lt;em&gt;only&lt;/em&gt; at the extruder end, not the hotend, and wonder if it is really an issue at all. Here's why...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The filament is in direct contact with the gear and wheel of the extruder. &lt;em&gt;If&lt;/em&gt; the Bowden tube is &lt;em&gt;only&lt;/em&gt; moving in/out of the extruder end of the coupler, there are no &quot;gaps&quot; being created to cause leakage of the filament, etc on the hot end...As the extruder is either pushing or retracting, the filament &lt;em&gt;inside&lt;/em&gt; the tube is still moving as much as intended regardless of the amount of play of the Bowden tube... no? therefore, retracting will not be affected at all, nor would the extruding process. Am I wrong and if so, can someone explain to me how this would be?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note, I can see that this movement may cause under-extrusion on the feeding side process, as the machine is expecting say, 0.5&amp;nbsp;mm extrusion, but then has to compensate (unknowingly) for the slipping &lt;em&gt;out&lt;/em&gt; tube during the &quot;push&quot;, so not enough gets &quot;out&quot;, but should not affect the retraction amount as the filament is still being &lt;em&gt;pulled&lt;/em&gt; directly from the gears/roller. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Am I wrong and if so, can someone explain to me how this would affect the &lt;em&gt;retraction&lt;/em&gt; along with the under-extrusion?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18900" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2019-10-21T17:30:36.960" LastActivityDate="2020-11-14T12:14:51.490" Title="How does slipping Bowden tube affect retraction or does it at all?" Tags="|extruder|creality-ender-3|bowden|retraction|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11219" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11218" CreationDate="2019-10-22T00:18:21.450" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The slipping does result in lost retraction distance. It does not result in underextrusion, lost material (except possibly via having insufficient retraction after the reduction), or anything like that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your retraction is set to 6 mm, but the bowden pulls 2 mm into the coupler when you retract, those first 2 mm of filament motion do not pull the filament out of the hotend at all. The position of the filament relative to the tube (and thus relative to the nozzle) remains constant. After the tube can be pulled back no further into the coupler, the remaining retraction pulls the filament back through the bowden tube, for 4 mm of retraction at the hotend/nozzle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When unretracting, the reverse happens. The first 2 mm of extruder motion push the bowden tube out of the coupler, and don't move the filament relative to the tube (or the hotend). After that the next 4 mm push the filament through the tube and back to the nozzle orifice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The result is the filament ending up back exactly where it started, but having backed out only 4 mm from the nozzle, not the requested 6 mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These numbers are just examples but probably about right. If you put the plastic clip on the pneumatic coupler, the slipping should stop, but you can also just increase retraction if the amount after the loss to slipping is not sufficient.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2019-10-22T00:18:21.450" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11220" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11212" CreationDate="2019-10-22T02:04:43.467" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This test is not just a verification solid, is a program that tries different exposures and shows them all side by side: &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/altLab/photon-resin-calibration&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://github.com/altLab/photon-resin-calibration&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The test doesn't move slower and slower, but it does something equivalent: keeps the plate in the same position while changing the bitmap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried the test, and I'm not happy about it. I tested the same black resin with the 0.02 and 0.05 layer thicknesses, and according to the tests I should use 8 seconds with the 0.02 and 6 seconds with the 0.05. This result goes against anything I heard about relation between layer thickness and exposure time. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also read in an issue in the repository that the test is not reliable with clear resins. My 2 tests are so thin that my black resin is transparent. I don't know if this is a factor, it just doesn't feel right. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I will keep searching for a better test and update this post if I find one. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18857" LastEditorUserId="18857" LastEditDate="2019-10-25T18:38:55.293" LastActivityDate="2019-10-25T18:38:55.293" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11221" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-10-22T02:25:47.980" Score="1" ViewCount="410" Body="&lt;p&gt;This repository contains a calibration test for DLP printers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As its file &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/altLab/photon-resin-calibration/blob/master/resin-xp-finder/Instructions.txt&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;code&gt;Instructions.txt&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/a&gt; says, it is an &lt;code&gt;ANYCUBIC RESIN EXPOSURE FINDER by X3msnake&lt;/code&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are all the files, both &lt;code&gt;.photon&lt;/code&gt; and &lt;code&gt;.gcode&lt;/code&gt;, compatible with the Epax X1 printer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18857" LastEditorUserId="18857" LastEditDate="2019-10-23T03:09:15.603" LastActivityDate="2019-10-23T03:09:15.603" Title="Is it safe to use photon-resin-calibration for Epax printer?" Tags="|resin|dlp|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11224" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7676" CreationDate="2019-10-22T15:16:24.030" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There might be a better solution. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Marlin supports custom user menus, in &lt;code&gt;configuration_adv.h&lt;/code&gt;, you probably should try to keep your changes limited to the &lt;code&gt;configuration*.h&lt;/code&gt; files.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The menu code is kind of ugly and you can easily break things.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18911" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2019-10-22T16:57:25.470" LastActivityDate="2019-10-22T16:57:25.470" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11225" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11221" CreationDate="2019-10-23T03:08:11.863" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, it seems to be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried the test and it worked well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18857" LastActivityDate="2019-10-23T03:08:11.863" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11226" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11199" CreationDate="2019-10-23T08:29:01.620" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;PLA and ABS are hard plastics. They are not water-soluble. If you print with these materials, just snap printed support materials off and clean the interface layer with a knife and sanding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To remove the support, it is best to use strong tweezers or a pair of pliers to grip and then apply some force. Generally, I use needle pliers, but occasionally I also use snippets to cut up the support towers into more manageable chunks and keep the printed part safer. It can help to remove it in pieces and score the breaking lines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As PLA is brittle, I prefer to break away from the object and not pull.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2019-11-02T12:17:59.170" LastActivityDate="2019-11-02T12:17:59.170" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11227" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-10-23T11:19:31.237" Score="3" ViewCount="5378" Body="&lt;p&gt;I seem to have got Cura into a state where changing the material has no effect on the settings. I am a beginner with Cura, and I would like to understand what I've done wrong, and how I can undo it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More details:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My part is meant to be printed in PETG, but I first did some test prints in PLA to get all the non-material related settings right (e.g. infill, top/bottom pattern, etc.). When I changed the material from &quot;PLA&quot; to &quot;PETG&quot;, it gave me a popup saying that I had changed these settings and asking me if I wanted to keep or discard the changes - I selected keep. I'm pretty sure that temperature, fan speed etc. weren't on that list of changes, otherwise I would have pressed discard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, the temperature, fan speed etc. also didn't change, they all stayed at their appropriate values for PLA. This effect seems to be permanent - they stay at their PLA values even if I select 'Settings -&gt; Profile -&gt; Discard current changes' from the menu, or if I select the 'Draft' or 'High' profiles, which I haven't yet used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I noticed also that if I go to 'Manage Profiles', I find that all three profiles include settings for the material, including a 200 degree printing temperature and a 60 degree bed temperature. I guess that these are overriding the settings associated with the material. I guess that these settings are not supposed to be in the profiles, so I want to understand how they got there and whether/how I should remove them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's possible that I did manually change those temperature settings for some previous print - but I wouldn't have expected that to have such a permanent effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="612" LastActivityDate="2019-10-24T13:50:36.993" Title="Temperature settings not changing in Cura" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11228" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11259" CreationDate="2019-10-23T18:52:53.020" Score="6" ViewCount="4857" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm working with an older MakerBot Replicator clone, actually a Flashforge Creator 1, with original Creator firmware.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I'm able to design objects, using Solidworks, and exporting the file as xxx.stl (ascii)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Then I use Slic3r to generate tool paths with output as xxx.gcode&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;finally, I use &lt;a href=&quot;https://markwal.github.io/GpxUi/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;GPX UI&lt;/a&gt; to generate a xxx.x3g file.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't understand where on the build plate the print starts.  Is that controlled by the 3d printer's firmware values, or something else in the chain from .stl --&amp;gt; .gcode --&amp;gt; x3g ??     Right now my prints start in the corner nearest 0,0.0, instead of in the middle of the build plate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do I control where to place the 3d print on the build plate?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;edit: Apologies for the delay.  As a result of the answers posted here, I did a whole bunch more testing.  The initial response from @mick, seems to indicate that what you see in the Slicer preview is what you'll see on the print bed. That makes sense, but &lt;strong&gt;that is definitely not what I'm seeing&lt;/strong&gt;.  I definitely don't see anywhere anything that remotely looks like a check the box [] center.  Here's what I do see:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I drop the object into Slic3r, it goes to middle of build plate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kNiWQ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kNiWQ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Slicer Preview&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JFgvU.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JFgvU.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Slic3r Settings&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LLqrd.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LLqrd.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;GPX UI&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately here's what gets printed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Attempt #1, off in space&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IkzsV.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IkzsV.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;print fail #1&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Attempt #2, Right Hand Margin&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mJATD.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mJATD.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;print fail #2&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Attempt #3, Near the front.&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/v3aLM.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/v3aLM.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;print #3&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried moving the print head to center of build plate, thinking that might be a logical start point. No go.  Print start moves head to home (rear right corner of print bed) then after elements heat up to temp, it seems to select a random spot on the build plate to start.  I never touched the .x3g file between these attempts.  So I'm right back to where I started, per the title of this posting &amp;quot;What determines print start location on the build plate?&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5014" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:29:41.667" LastActivityDate="2019-11-08T17:56:59.713" Title="What determines print start location on the build plate?" Tags="|slic3r|flashforge-creator|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11229" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11228" CreationDate="2019-10-23T19:19:20.127" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds like you have &quot;Origin at center&quot; checked in your slicer's printer definition. That is generally only used with delta printers. Most Cartesian printers have the origin at the front-left corner of the build plate. Uncheck &quot;Origin at center&quot; and re-slice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Providing that you have set up your slicer with the build plate dimensions and origin correctly defined, your models will be printed where the slicer shows them in the preview. You can rearrange the models before you slice, of course.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3953" LastEditorUserId="3953" LastEditDate="2019-10-23T20:43:57.260" LastActivityDate="2019-10-23T20:43:57.260" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11230" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11193" CreationDate="2019-10-23T21:01:09.943" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;@trish Thankyou for your help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did purchased the new power supply and everything works fine now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18867" LastActivityDate="2019-10-23T21:01:09.943" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11231" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11178" CreationDate="2019-10-24T01:51:38.863" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I &lt;em&gt;would&lt;/em&gt; use both if I had a choice, but my stock &quot;Melzi&quot; board doesn't have enough inputs as near as I can tell. Most of the (scarce) instructions show to disconnect the Z switch and connect the BL Touch to the digital inputs in place of the switch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't see any other connectors to wire up the EZ Touch to. Maybe the ICSP programmer, but I haven't messed around to see if that would be usable (nothing in the stock CR10 box is connected to it anyway).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I think it's more of a practical issue that you use one in place of instead of adding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, less pedantically, &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;why is a BL Touch better than a limit switch&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Two words: &lt;strong&gt;Auto Leveling&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you get everything setup right, auto-leveling should be great. I say &quot;Should be&quot; as I still don't quite have the board setup right. It keeps trying to push my nozzle into the PEI sheet, so I really DO wish I had both limit switches and the BL Touch. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Leveling on a hobbyist level 3D printer isn't that hard, but it's time consuming and requires some care. Having to do it every time becomes a colossal pain. So the idea that you could clean off the build plate, hit a button, and have the printer figure out what level was and just start printing is great. Not having prints peel off the plate because you had the gap set wrong, or didn't get the back corner leveled off, or the PEI sheet getting damaged because the nozzle ran into the sheet ... &lt;em&gt;priceless&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But hey, if you're using a 3D printer where you'd even think about a BL Touch, you're on the DIY/Maker side, not the &quot;stick in an SD card and hit print&quot; side, so you should be used to figuring out how to wire one in. It's part of the adventure, right?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18920" LastEditorUserId="18920" LastEditDate="2019-10-25T01:58:04.103" LastActivityDate="2019-10-25T01:58:04.103" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11233" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11228" CreationDate="2019-10-24T08:55:01.173" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;STL files contain an origin. However, this is totally ignored when generating G-code, the slicer chooses the origin based on settings. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;G-code itself is a string of commands. One of these &lt;code&gt;G28&lt;/code&gt; calls for the origin of the machine to be found by moving mechanically to this position. Usually, it is all formatted to take this or the power-up position as 0 and then moves relative to that. It always moves in reference to the last position, or this 0 (absolute mode).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;.x3d is an XML type of file that describes a 3D model. It reformats G-code to be read by different types of machines. It too only moves with reference to the last position, taking the position on powerup as 0 to move against unless homed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Convention&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The convention for CNC is, that the front-top-left corner of the workpiece is to be &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$\{0;0;0\}$&lt;/span&gt; as the origin for the &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Right-hand_rule&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;right-hand-rule&lt;/a&gt;. CNC then usually operates in a purely positive XY area and only works in negative Z, which is fitting for cutting. It doesn't preclude negative areas as to achieve cuts, going into the negative room is sometimes mandatory.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Taking this convention to 3D printing puts the front-left(-bottom) corner of the build plate (volume) to be the origin, because of the right-hand rule: The coordinate room is then strictly positive in XYZ (right as X, back for Y, up for Z), all absolute, strictly positive coordinates within the positive build volume can be moved to. However, instead of allowing negative coordinates, 3D printing does not allow any coordinates outside of the build volume that is ranged from 0 to the maxima set in the firmware.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This convention fails for Delta printers, which pretty much extrapolate the heights of the individual steppers via trigonometric calculations from cylinder coordinates &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$\{ r ; \phi ; z\}$&lt;/span&gt; - radius, an angle of 0° to 360° and the Z-coordinate. In this coordinate room, math gets much easier putting 0 into the center of the build plate, which is circular; The transformation to cartesian coordinates is &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$\{ r \cos(\phi) ; r\sin(\phi) ; z\}$&lt;/span&gt;; the inverse transformation from cartesian to cylinder coordinates is somewhat more complex and &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Polar_coordinate_system#Converting_between_polar_and_Cartesian_coordinates&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;uses case differentiation.&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Error&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's say the build plate has dimensions &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$a$&lt;/span&gt; and &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$b$&lt;/span&gt; and the corner with the green clip is &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$\{0;0;0\}$&lt;/span&gt;. The item is sliced to the position &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$\{a/2 ; b/2\}$&lt;/span&gt; of the bed. It appears at &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$\{a ; b/2\}$&lt;/span&gt; and &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$\{a/2 ; b\}$&lt;/span&gt; respectively. This hints that the center of the bed is somehow taken as one of the coordinates.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the corner without the clip is assumed as &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$\{0;0;0\}$&lt;/span&gt;, then X should be to the right, Y to the front following the right-hand-rule. To see if the coordinates might be skewed, the following command snippet would be useful. Please execute them one by one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;G28 ; home&#xA;G1 Z5 ; lift off the bed 5 mm to prevent accidental collisions&#xA;G1 X50 F500 ; move 50 mm to positive X - in case of back-right corner home this is to the LEFT&#xA;G1 Y50 F500 ; move to what ends up 50 50 5 - in case of back-right corner home this is to the FRONT&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Fixing&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem is &lt;em&gt;probably not&lt;/em&gt; the slicer but most likely the firmware defining either the movement axis or the home wrong (either the wrong corner is chosen or the movement axis are defined incorrectly) on the printer. It seems to be totally messed up and should be reflashed with a fresh copy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It would be a good chance to learn by taking a Blanco variant of marlin and adjusting it to the own printer by chucking in the dimensions into &lt;code&gt;configuration.h&lt;/code&gt; and starting from there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2019-10-26T16:49:44.717" LastActivityDate="2019-10-26T16:49:44.717" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11235" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11227" CreationDate="2019-10-24T13:50:36.993" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;You're right in that the profile overrides the material. Cura's overriding precedence is as follows, where higher numbers override the lower numbers:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cura's base defaults.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Printer specific settings.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Adjustments to the printer made in the Machine Settings dialogue.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Nozzle profiles.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Material profiles.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Quality levels (aka built-in profiles).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Custom profiles.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Settings not yet saved to a profile.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the Cura GUI, once a setting has been saved to a profile, there is no way to really get it out again. You can only create a new profile and copy over all of your overrides.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However for the temperature you can still click on the little fx button next to the setting. This will restore the link from the setting to inherit again from different settings. In the case of printing temperature, the material profile actually adjusts the &quot;Default Printing Temperature&quot; setting. Clicking the fx button makes it go back to &quot;use the Default Printing Temperature&quot; so that your material's temperature is used again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The same does not go for fan speed, sadly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Cura developers are planning to remove the fx button and replace it with a button to remove a setting override from a custom profile. That would fix your problem. It's not implemented yet though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Source: Am Cura developer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9717" LastActivityDate="2019-10-24T13:50:36.993" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11236" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-10-24T17:48:52.240" Score="4" ViewCount="770" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cura (version 4.3.0) has the ability to insert a post processing script to your print. I tried this for printing a key cover around my door key (similar to &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10587/how-to-pause-a-print-to-insert-something-in-a-cavity-using-ultimaker-cura&quot;&gt;this question&lt;/a&gt;). I designed the STL file with Fusion 360 (version 2.0.6516) and verified that the height of the beginning of the top layers is exactly at 3.1&amp;nbsp;mm. The top layer itself has a height of 0.5&amp;nbsp;mm. In Cura I inserted a pause at height 3.1&amp;nbsp;mm. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried different post processing scripts:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pause at height&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pause at height (BG printers)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pause at height for Repetier&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MnbZO.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MnbZO.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After inserting the script I did the &quot;slice&quot; and saved the G-code to an SD card. When printing on my RF100 (firmware version 2.2) no script created a pause at all. All scripts printed the full key cover in one step.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The part of the G-Code that does the pause looks like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;[...]&#xA;G1 X57.522 Y62.32 E134.15939&#xA;G1 X57.475 Y62.045 E134.1614&#xA;G0 F3000 X57.47 Y62.02&#xA;G0 X57.469 Y61.845&#xA;G1 F2400 E132.1614&#xA;G1 F600 Z4&#xA;;MESH:NONMESH&#xA;G0 F3000 X54.16 Y67.189 Z4&#xA;;TIME_ELAPSED:247.492714&#xA;;TYPE:CUSTOM&#xA;;added code by post processing&#xA;;script: PauseAtHeight.py&#xA;;current z: 4.15&#xA;;current height: 3.1500000000000004&#xA;M83 ; switch to relative E values for any needed retraction&#xA;G1 F300 Z5.15 ; move up a millimeter to get out of the way&#xA;G1 F9000 X190 Y190&#xA;G1 F300 Z15 ; too close to bed--move to at least 15mm&#xA;M104 S0 ; standby temperature&#xA;M0 ; Do the actual pause&#xA;M109 S210 ; resume temperature&#xA;G1 F300 Z5.15&#xA;G1 F9000 X63.338 Y61.621&#xA;G1 F300 Z4.15 ; move back down to resume height&#xA;G1 F9000&#xA;M82 ; switch back to absolute E values&#xA;G92 E132.1614&#xA;;LAYER:19&#xA;;MESH:0d0e86f0-0b59-4e06-9e77-78fe8e77be5b.stl&#xA;G0 X54.16 Y67.189 Z4.15&#xA;;TYPE:WALL-OUTER&#xA;G1 F600 Z3.15&#xA;G1 F2400 E134.1614&#xA;G1 F2040 X54.171 Y67.193 E134.16172&#xA;G1 X54.689 Y67.418 E134.17722&#xA;G1 X55.228 Y67.625 E134.19306&#xA;G1 X55.776 Y67.811 E134.20894&#xA;[...]&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cura out of the box has no machine setting for the RF100 v2, so I used the settings for the RF100 v1 and adjusted the dimensions of the width, depth and height to 120 mm. As G-code flavor I stayed with &quot;Marlin&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What can I do? This question is not specific to a key cover. I could design this so I could insert the key at the end. But I really would like to know how to do a predefined pause during my print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18928" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-11-25T10:12:16.953" LastActivityDate="2019-11-25T15:53:37.210" Title="Cura 4.3.0 does not pause on Renkforce RF100 V2.2" Tags="|marlin|ultimaker-cura|g-code|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11238" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-10-25T08:30:31.317" Score="1" ViewCount="377" Body="&lt;p&gt;When trying to print wide curves (~4inch radius), later layers of the brim seem to print too close (or over extrude, or otherwise collide) with previous layers, causing the previous layers to detach from the bed. Examples:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2cT4E.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2cT4E.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/l3mNh.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/l3mNh.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(I realise that in these pictures my z-offset looks too small, but I have tried this at a range of z-offsets until the print fails to adhere to the bed at all. The issue persists throughout the whole range of z-offset)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My setup:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ender 3&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;v1.1.4 mainboard with non-silent steppers&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;genuine bltouch v3, with official creality pin27 kit*&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;marlin 1.1.9 bugfix firmware* &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;single probe&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;stock build surface (religiously alcoholed thoroughly before every print)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;cura slicer 4.2.0&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Start gcode heats bed, homes (G28), performs ABL* (G29), then heats nozzle (don't have the actual gcode on my now as I'm away from my slicing computer)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*issues existed before installing the bltouch, while running completely stock printer and firmware. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Why are these curved brims failing?  How can I make these models print properly?&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(I don't think it's related, hence posting it as a &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11239/ender-3-bltouch-fails-in-assorted-ways&quot;&gt;different question&lt;/a&gt; but just incase it is: my bl touch doesn't always behave properly. &#xA;The issues listed in that question however usually mean that the print does not even get to this stage.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12718" LastEditorUserId="12718" LastEditDate="2019-10-25T08:35:52.177" LastActivityDate="2019-10-25T08:35:52.177" Title="Ender 3 failing on brim for wide curves" Tags="|creality-ender-3|print-failure|brims|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11239" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-10-25T08:38:37.347" Score="2" ViewCount="7443" Body="&lt;p&gt;My recently installed BLTouch probe regularly fails to perform ABL properly.  There seem to be 3-4 failure modes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Probe manages some points but fails partway through, with a &quot;probing failed&quot; message on the LCD screen, rendering it necessary to power-cycle the printer&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Probe deploys on some point, then stows itself immediately, and treats that point as being a centimeter or two about where it actually is. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Probe completes all 9 points, then heats the nozzle in the back corner and never moves. The progress bar on the LCD counts up and eventually it claims to have finished the print, but the steppers (including the extruder) never move.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Probe flashes red throughout the cycle, which I believe means it failed a self-test probably because the mainboard started trying to speak to it before it was initialized, but occasionally when this occurs, it still works as expected.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For avoidance of doubt - sometimes it actually does work, and I get beautiful prints that adhere well during printing but are easily removed afterwards.  And I have never had any issues with the Z homing using the probe, only the auto mesh levelling.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My setup:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Creality Ender 3&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;v1.1.4 mainboard with non-silent steppers&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;genuine BLTouch v3, with official Creality pin27 kit&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Marlin 1.1.9 bugfix firmware, downloaded as hex file &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;single iteration of probing&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;9 point levelling mesh&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ultimaker Cura slicer 4.2.0&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Start G-code heats bed, homes &lt;code&gt;G28&lt;/code&gt;, performs ABL &lt;code&gt;G29&lt;/code&gt;, then heats nozzle (I don't have the actual G-code on my now as I'm away from my slicing computer)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[Related question: &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10345/bl-touch-probing-fails-intermittently&quot;&gt;BL Touch Probing Fails Intermittently&lt;/a&gt; but answers do not apply as I am already using bugfix firmware and have checked all the cabling and connections]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12718" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2020-01-21T11:16:09.150" LastActivityDate="2020-01-27T16:19:17.070" Title="Ender 3 BLTouch fails in assorted ways" Tags="|creality-ender-3|troubleshooting|bltouch|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11240" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11253" CreationDate="2019-10-25T15:44:26.073" Score="4" ViewCount="4214" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a custom designed and built CoreXY printer. I have noticed that when I order the X to move from one side to the other (right to left) that the Y axis moves back about 0.6&amp;nbsp;mm as well. When I move the X back (from left to right) the Y also moves forward approximately the same amount. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What property of the CoreXY system could be causing this? Note, I am using 608 bearings instead of toothed idler pulleys; which I hope to rectify soon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Steps per mm from the Marlin configuration.h:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT   { 475.79, 482.87, 468.66, 188.1 }&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note, they are not the same for X and Y. This is because I am trying to run a calibration cube test on the machine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12857" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-10-28T15:06:55.023" LastActivityDate="2019-10-29T15:39:03.433" Title="CoreXY Carriage moves on the Y when moving the X" Tags="|diy-3d-printer|corexy|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11241" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8139" CreationDate="2019-10-25T18:54:01.410" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The same thing happened to me several years ago. My print was a fairly tall part for my delta printer, about 220 mm. In many previous prints, the print head would always go up after finishing, but what I didn't know was that the Slic3r finish print routine specified an absolute Z height of about 200 mm. When the tall part finished, the still-hot print head moved down and ruined the top of the print. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After figuring out that the routine had an absolute reference, I replaced it with a relative movement 20 mm up. It's worked fine since then. An easy fix.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6646" LastActivityDate="2019-10-25T18:54:01.410" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11242" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11236" CreationDate="2019-10-25T20:27:42.047" Score="2" Body="&lt;h2&gt;G-code &lt;code&gt;M0&lt;/code&gt; is not supported!&lt;sup&gt;1)&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.renkforce-rf100.ch/firmware/firmware-rf100/index.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;original firmware of the RF100&lt;/a&gt;, the firmware is based on Marlin Firmware. From the original sources you can find that in order for &lt;code&gt;M0&lt;/code&gt; (or &lt;code&gt;M1&lt;/code&gt; which is a deprecated alias for &lt;code&gt;M0&lt;/code&gt;) to work, you need an &lt;code&gt;ULTRA_LCD&lt;/code&gt; supported  LCD panel:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&#xA; * &quot;M&quot; Codes&#xA; *&#xA; * M0   - Unconditional stop - Wait for user to press a button on the LCD (Only if ULTRA_LCD is enabled)&#xA;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, your printer does not support such an LCD panel, from the configuration.h can be read that the constant is disabled (&lt;code&gt;//&lt;/code&gt; means that the line is treated as a comment and as such ignored by the compiler):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;//#define ULTRA_LCD  //general LCD support, also 16x2&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Therefore, these scripts will not work for your printer!&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;&lt;br&gt;&lt;em&gt;(Not your printer is running a very old version of Marlin; version 1.0.3)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Solution:&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is possible to manually change the G-code for a (in this case) Marlin based firmware&lt;sup&gt;2)&lt;/sup&gt; (so no adding of a pause by Cura) by inserting a few lines to:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;First set relative movement (&lt;code&gt;G91&lt;/code&gt;), then retract a certain amount of filament (&lt;code&gt;G1 E-2 F500&lt;/code&gt;) or alternatively use &lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#G10:_Retract&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;code&gt;G10&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/a&gt; using predefined retraction definitions in &lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#M207:_Set_retract_length&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;code&gt;M207&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/a&gt;;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Insert a dwell period by inserting the G-code &lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#G4:_Dwell&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;code&gt;G4&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/a&gt; (plus a time to wait), e.g. &lt;code&gt;G4 P2000&lt;/code&gt; to dwell for 2000 milliseconds (alternatively, &lt;code&gt;G4 S2&lt;/code&gt; will also pause for 2 seconds), please adjust the value to an adequate one in which you can insert the object;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;First, unretract filament (&lt;code&gt;G1 E2 F500&lt;/code&gt;) and then put the printer back in absolute movement (&lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#G90:_Set_to_Absolute_Positioning&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;code&gt;G90&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/a&gt; or alternatively use &lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#G11:_Unretract&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;code&gt;G11&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/a&gt; using predefined retraction definitions in &lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#M207:_Set_retract_length&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;code&gt;M207&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1)&lt;/sup&gt; &lt;sub&gt;&lt;em&gt;By your firmware version/implementation&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2)&lt;/sup&gt; &lt;sub&gt;&lt;em&gt;Note that certain G-codes only work for certain firmwares! Fortunately, the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.renkforce-rf100.ch/firmware/firmware-rf100/index.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;original firmware of the RF100&lt;/a&gt; is based on Marlin Firmware (unless it has been changed form the factory default.)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:29:41.667" LastActivityDate="2019-11-25T15:53:37.210" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11243" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11228" CreationDate="2019-10-26T10:16:19.733" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;First of all, the firmware determines where your origin of the printer is. This implies that you need to properly set bed dimensions and offset values from the end stop switches in the firmware (usually not necessary out-of-the-box, but important when a newer or different firmware version is uploaded). These offsets determine where the origin of the bed plate is located. For Marlin firmware it is very common to have the origin specified at the front left corner (when facing the printer). From the &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/blob/1.1.x/Marlin/Configuration.h#L765&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;configuration of Marlin&lt;/a&gt; we find that by definition the origin is in the front-left corner (note that this can be rotated 180 degrees in certain printers, so the aft-right):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&#xA; *      +-- BACK ---+&#xA; *      |           |&#xA; *    L |    (+) P  | R&#xA; *    E |           | I&#xA; *    F | (-) N (+) | G&#xA; *    T |           | H&#xA; *      |    (-)    | T&#xA; *      |           |&#xA; *      O-- FRONT --+&#xA; *    (0,0)&#xA;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;How do I find the physical origin of the printer?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;This can be tested by instructing the head/nozzle to go to e.g. (0, 0, 15) using a &lt;a href=&quot;/q/10573&quot;&gt;terminal/console&lt;/a&gt; or a simple G-code file with a move to that coordinate that you print from SD card (e.g. &lt;code&gt;G1 X0 Y0 Z15 F500&lt;/code&gt;); &lt;em&gt;note a Z of 15 is chosen for safety!&lt;/em&gt;. When this is performed, the nozzle should be at the (elevated, so X, Y) origin as defined by your firmware. Usually this is at the left front corner of your build plate (there may be clips there, so therefore the elevated value), but this may be different depending on the firmware settings or firmware brand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next step is to configure the slicer as such that this coincides with the actual origin. Incorrect slicer settings can cause the slicer to assume the origin is at a different position than your actual position. In Ultimaker Cura, the &quot;Origin at center&quot; is notoriously known for this when the physical origin is not in the center, but in a corner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-10-29T12:35:08.187" LastActivityDate="2019-10-29T12:35:08.187" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11247" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9883" CreationDate="2019-10-26T18:34:42.207" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I own a Sparkmaker &lt;strong&gt;FHD&lt;/strong&gt; whose X/Y resolution is 57µm. Z resolution (layer height) is up to the user, 25, 50 or 100µm being typical values. I have limited experience with it but the level of detail seems to be coherent with the specification.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The more popular (but less powerful in therm of UV light, so slower) Anycubic printers have a 2k screen and reach a X/Y resolution of 47µm. I think some printers with a 4k screen can reach down to 37µm X/Y resolution, even if the practical resolution is probably larger, due to some horizontal light diffusion in the screen upper layers and in the FEP film.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17173" LastActivityDate="2019-10-26T18:34:42.207" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11248" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="513" CreationDate="2019-10-26T20:46:47.723" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I designed this self-printable filter enclosure.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rather than vent any air outside the printer enclosure, this will recirculate the air within, constantly running the air through the filter while at the same time conserving the heat needed for ABS prints. It's simple, and you can employ more than one of these or, using my design files, extend the size of the cabinet to stack more layers of carbon filtration material.  It only employs one inexpensive PC fan to move air. I've found it effective for my purposes, never having to smell ABS prints or suffer eye irritation from them again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2209222&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2209222&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8537" LastActivityDate="2019-10-26T20:46:47.723" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11250" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-10-27T04:21:49.287" Score="3" ViewCount="77" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to create a drinking cup that is entirely safe to consume liquids from. I’ve done some research, but I can not seem to find a cheap or easily accessibly food-safe filament. I have also had no luck researching ways to make objects food-safe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18962" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2019-11-01T14:47:18.410" LastActivityDate="2019-11-01T14:47:18.410" Title="Good food-safe print filament or method?" Tags="|safety|filament-choice|food|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2019-10-27T13:33:26.983" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11251" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8023" CreationDate="2019-10-27T10:45:50.530" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This intermittent underextrusion can be caused by a broken part in the extruder on the CR-10 / Ender 3. Check if the plastic mount that holds the idler wheel in place is torn. Depending on the height and the resulting varying tension from the filament the idler wheel gets in and out of alignment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18964" LastActivityDate="2019-10-27T10:45:50.530" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11252" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-10-28T05:07:22.337" Score="1" ViewCount="76" Body="&lt;p&gt;I’m a 3D printing newbie. I’ve tried adjusting various settings but nothing seems to help.  Most of the brim looks great and I’m pretty sure my bed is level, but as soon as it starts printing the actual model parts of it don’t stick and ends up in clumps. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8UWe1.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Close up of print&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8UWe1.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Close up of print&quot; title=&quot;Close up of print&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9OwsH.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Resulting print&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9OwsH.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Resulting print&quot; title=&quot;Resulting print&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18972" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2019-10-28T13:32:08.870" LastActivityDate="2019-10-28T13:32:08.870" Title="Does anyone know what would cause this?" Tags="|troubleshooting|adhesion|geeetech|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2019-10-30T06:09:30.937" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11253" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11240" CreationDate="2019-10-28T13:15:49.113" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;For a CoreXY printer to move an axis (X or Y) it requires both stepper motors to turn. If both turn the same direction (at the same speed with the same pulleys), the X-axis will move, if they rotate both in a different direction (at the same speed with the same pulleys) the Y axis will move (see image of CoreXY kinematics below). Rotation of a single stepper would cause a 45&amp;deg; printing pattern.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hTsr9.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;CoreXY kinematics&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hTsr9.png&quot; alt=&quot;CoreXY kinematics&quot; title=&quot;CoreXY kinematics&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;All four corner points (two top pulleys and two bottom steppers) are fixed to the CoreXY frame&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is therefore highly illogical that you need to use different values for your steps per mm (&lt;code&gt;X = 475.79&lt;/code&gt; steps/mm, &lt;code&gt;Y = 482.87&lt;/code&gt; steps/mm). If you need to use such values, this implies that your mechanical layout/mechanics is/are incorrect (skew frame, different pulley diameters, slip on pulley, incorrect tension of belts, etc.). It is advised to make them equal and check the mechanical layout and inspect all parts (pulley diameters) and make the tension equal (e.g. using a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2589577&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Belt Tension Gauge&lt;/a&gt;). If the head still moves in the perpendicular direction as commanded, you could try to calibrate from there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-10-29T15:39:03.433" LastActivityDate="2019-10-29T15:39:03.433" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11254" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10288" CreationDate="2019-10-28T13:47:38.320" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The real problem was that I damaged the nozzle (most likely while cleaning it) in a way that increased the size of the hole. So, too little filament was coming out of too big of a hole, which caused such poor models. Replacing the nozzle fixed the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do not remember the settings of the top of my head. Generally advised settings for PETG (whatever they were) worked fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16769" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-10-28T15:03:29.293" LastActivityDate="2019-10-28T15:03:29.293" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11257" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11147" CreationDate="2019-10-28T22:52:28.027" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Extracting various measurements from 3D models is easily done using the following free online tool:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://0x00019913.github.io/meshy/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://0x00019913.github.io/meshy/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I scanned a person using the Sense 2 scanner and I compared the values from meshy for the hip and waist with those measured in real life one day after the scan: the difference was about 1 cm, which can easily be explained by the uncertainties in the choice of the measurement point and moment of the day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This shows that both the 3D scanner and meshy are quite accurate. The tool is also very easy to use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2338" LastActivityDate="2019-10-28T22:52:28.027" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11259" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11228" CreationDate="2019-10-29T08:50:48.793" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;So it turns out there are elements from each of the previous answers that make sense here, but its not a clear picture.  I've spent a whole lot of time trying to make sense of this. I also upgraded my firmware to &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:32084&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Sailfish.&lt;/a&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the MakerBot Replicator (or FastForge Creator) family of 3d printers, the origin of the build plate is NOT at any of the corners, its right in the center of the build plate. Reference &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.sailfishfirmware.com/doc/parameters-home-offsets.html#x20-630004.1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here.&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;4.1 Home Offsets:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  By convention, &lt;strong&gt;the center of the build platform&lt;/strong&gt; is assumed to be the point (0,0,0) in XYZ space. The X, Y, and Z &lt;strong&gt;home offsets&lt;/strong&gt; tell the printer the location of the X, Y, and Z &lt;strong&gt;endstops&lt;/strong&gt; in relation to the build platform’s center.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looks like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/c2YlJ.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/c2YlJ.png&quot; alt=&quot;Center of build plate is origin&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And it would appear that most other 3D printers are not using this convention. Sigh.   From my testing, the main control of print location is within the G-Code generated by the slicer.  The tool I was using, Slic3r does give one a chance to correct that&#xA;adjustment.  You have to go to top menu &lt;code&gt;Settings --&amp;gt; Printer Settings --&amp;gt; Size and Coordinates (Bed Shape) --&amp;gt; Set&lt;/code&gt; to get a nice popup visual tool.  See below.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately the default setting is accurate for the overall bed size, but is a fail for the origin location on the bed.  The default origin is set at 0,0, in the corner.  Ouch. Big ouch.  The origin needs to be located right in the center of the build plate (to be consistent with the firmware controlling the print for this family of printers).  It &lt;strong&gt;should&lt;/strong&gt; look like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iXV61.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iXV61.png&quot; alt=&quot;print bed origin setup&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note, when you tell the printer to go to 'home' it doesn't go to origin (0,0,0) it goes to the endstops.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt; G68 X0 Y0 F500 ; Perform Homing Routine&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So as long as you understand the quirks of these printers things will work out.  You have to ensure offsets are set accurately in firmware config files. (Replicator / Sailfish) And you have to indicate the correct center location to the slicer program.  I will say the advice given here was of some help in understanding this. Many thanks.  I'm posting here in case others using the Replicator or FastForge Creator series of printers is having troubles centering their prints on the build plate.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additional info for anybody using a MakerBot Replicator or Flashforge Creator series printer with Slic3r. I wanted to add my custom G-code stuff. The default Slic3r stuff definitely did not work.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Printer Settings --&gt; Custom G-Code --&gt; Start G-Code&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;M103 ; Turn all extruders off, Extruder Retraction&#xA;G21 ; set units to mm&#xA;G90 ; Use absolute coordinates&#xA;(**** begin homing ****)&#xA;G162 X Y F2500 ; home XY axes to maximum stops&#xA;G161 Z F1100 ; home Z axis to minimum stop&#xA;G92 Z-5 ; Set Position Z =-5mm&#xA;G1 Z0.0 ; move Z to &quot;0&quot;&#xA;G161 Z F100 ; home Z axis to minimum stop slowly&#xA;M132 X Y Z A B ; Recall stored home offsets for XYZAB axis&#xA;               ; Loads the axis offset of the current home position from the EEPROM and waits for the buffer to empty.&#xA;G90 ; Use absolute coordinates&#xA;G1 X0 Y0 Z50 F3300.0 ; move to waiting position near center of build plate&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Printer Settings --&gt; Custom G-Code --&gt; End G-Code&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;M109 S0 T0 ; Cool down the build platform&#xA;M104 S0 T0 ; Cool down the Right Extruder&#xA;M104 S0 T1 ; Cool down the Left Extruder&#xA;M73 P100 ; End  build progress&#xA;G0 Z150 ; Send Z axis to bottom of machine&#xA;M18 ; Disable steppers&#xA;G162 X Y F2500 ; Home XY endstops&#xA;M18 ; Disable stepper motors&#xA;M70 P30 ; We &amp;lt;3 Making Things! Yipee, you made it...&#xA;; display message above for 30 seconds&#xA;M72 P1 ; Play Ta-Da song&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One other thing I do with Slic3r.  I print a single loop of print on the periphery of a phantom skirt.  I do this as a printer head clean extrude exercise.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Print Settings --&gt; Skirt and Brim --&gt; Skirt --&gt; Loops (minimum): 1, Distance from object: 6mm, Skirt height: 1   This works well.  I do this in lieu of the G-code startup used in ReplicatorG software (which went to the lower left hand corner, and did this odd 4mm extrude exercise, with odd timing...)  The skirt thing works just fine.    &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5014" LastEditorUserId="5014" LastEditDate="2019-11-08T17:56:59.713" LastActivityDate="2019-11-08T17:56:59.713" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11260" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10288" CreationDate="2019-10-29T15:13:44.483" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;55&amp;nbsp;mm per second is the highest I would go with PETG.&#xA;Cleaning the nozzle more often helps.&#xA;Also check your PID for the nozzle temp, it could be inconsistent and PETG can be very finicky with temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7912" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-10-29T15:30:38.733" LastActivityDate="2019-10-29T15:30:38.733" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11261" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11774" CreationDate="2019-10-29T20:55:07.047" Score="5" ViewCount="3743" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have built a 3D printer with Marlin bugfix-2.0.x forked from github.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am attempting to set the default value for junction deviation so that I don't have to change it through the printer's screen/interface every time I power cycle the printer, but what I thought would set it properly isn't doing the trick.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My thought was that uncommenting this in Configuration_adv.h would work:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#define JUNCTION_DEVIATION_MM 0.02&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have tried setting this define inside of and outside of the default &lt;code&gt;if&lt;/code&gt; block in which it appears, just to make sure the issue wasn't because I didn't have something else set, and I get the same behavior when this &lt;code&gt;define&lt;/code&gt; statement is either protected or unprotected by an &lt;code&gt;if&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, the default &lt;code&gt;if&lt;/code&gt; block is this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#if ENABLED( JUNCTION_DEVIATION )&#xA;    #define JUNCTION_DEVIATION_MM 0.02&#xA;#endif&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Uncommenting &lt;code&gt;#define JUNCTION_DEVIATION&lt;/code&gt; leaves me with a compiler error telling me that I don't need to do that, so I'm not seeing anything that I am supposed to enable to get it to use the JUNCTION_DEVIATION_MM setting. In other words, I can't actually enable &quot;JUNCTION_DEVIATION&quot; any more, so I HAVE to break the JUNCTION_DEVIATION_MM setting out of the &lt;code&gt;if&lt;/code&gt; but it still has no effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After setting this parameter, when I power cycle the printer, the junction deviation is set to 0 (although one touch of the adjustment knob makes it jump to 0.010, so I think that what is displayed as &quot;0&quot; may actually mean &quot;unset&quot;), which is causing a significant stop/start jerk on every angle change until I manually set the junction deviation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My current &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/appideasDOTcom/Marlin/blob/printerx/Marlin/Configuration.h&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Configuration.h&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/appideasDOTcom/Marlin/blob/printerx/Marlin/Configuration_adv.h&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Configuration_adv.h&lt;/a&gt; are taken from &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/appideasDOTcom/Marlin/tree/printerx/Marlin&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this Marlin fork&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In case it matters, I'm running this on an SKR V1.3 with TMC2208 drivers at 24V.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas what I'm missing? I'm sure it's something simple, I just haven't found it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;UPDATE:&lt;/strong&gt; Still no solution after 10 days. Here is additional information from another forum where I posted this request:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Did you run &lt;code&gt;M502&lt;/code&gt; and &lt;code&gt;M500&lt;/code&gt; after updating your firmware?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I dug into this a little more, and I am either running into a bug, or I'm simply not understanding what I'm supposed to be seeing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I send this command:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;code&gt;M205 J0.020&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then verify that junction deviation is set correctly (it is)&#xA;Then this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;code&gt;M500&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And that responds with:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;code&gt;Settings Stored (616 bytes; crc 51371)&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then I send this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;code&gt;M503&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And the report for M205 is missing the setting I just confirmed to have changed and been working:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;code&gt;...&#xA;M205 B20000.00 S0.00 T0.00&#xA;...&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And power cycling or resetting the controller leads to the same result: Junction Deviation is reset to 0.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Shouldn't I see &quot;J0.020&quot; in the M205 line immediately after changing the setting, and verifying that it works?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18989" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-11-24T23:25:11.140" LastActivityDate="2020-11-14T12:26:46.343" Title="Setting Junction Deviation in firmware has no effect" Tags="|marlin|diy-3d-printer|skr-v1.3|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11262" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11199" CreationDate="2019-10-29T23:10:16.193" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Ultimaker 2+ is a single extruder 3D printer. Without changing the PLA spool and PVA spool continuously during the print you practically cannot make water soluble supports on the Ultimaker 2+ which can be done on the Ultimaker 3. Note that PVA (from experience) is strange material to print, the filament is very hygroscopic and will form bubbles during printing when moist. Also, PVA is prone to clog the nozzle (it cooks easily) it therefore has its own printer core (nozzle assembly) on the Ultimaker 3 (still it clogs easily). Furthermore, it takes a while to dissolve in water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have a single extruder and nozzle, your best option is to use the same material for support, but modify the support settings as such that it can be easily removed. E.g. on thin layer heights (0.1&amp;nbsp;mm) I usually increase the gap between support and product over the default value, see &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/7991&quot;&gt;this answer&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On dual extruder printers, e.g. on the Ultimaker 3 and S5, my colleagues have better experience using &lt;a href=&quot;https://ultimaker.com/en/products/materials/breakaway&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Ultimaker Breakaway&lt;/a&gt; filament rather than using PVA. As with the PLA supports, you need to &quot;break them away&quot; from the actual product; I use a Leatherman Charge or FREE P4 as these tools have fine pointed pliers. Note that there are removal tools available that are best described as soldering irons that can aid in the removal of support structures:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/81q27.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Modifi3d support removal tool&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/81q27.png&quot; alt=&quot;Modifi3d support removal tool&quot; title=&quot;Modifi3d support removal tool&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that I have mixed feelings about this product; it is hard to neatly remove supports using these small soldering irons, but it sometimes works.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-10-30T05:53:55.587" LastActivityDate="2019-10-30T05:53:55.587" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11263" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11264" CreationDate="2019-10-30T00:10:07.520" Score="1" ViewCount="6295" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been running this Ender 3 Pro for quite some time with no problem up until recently. The issue was the printer refused to extrude filament (the extruder stepper seems to be rocking back and forth) so I went through a few things to try and fix the problem:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I leveled the bed properly&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I printed at higher temperatures (215 °C for PLA which is the only filament I run in this printer)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I cleaned the nozzle and I actually replaced the nozzle with a new 0.4 mm nozzle&#xA;(same size as before)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I replaced my Bowden tube with a newer one (unbranded) and even replaced the tube fittings for the extruder assembly and the heat sink.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I saw somewhere that maybe the wiring to the extruder gear is frayed but I inspected the extruder side of the connector and everything looks fine. I would open up the box and everything but I want to see if anyone has a solution before opening up the circuit  box.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17480" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-10-12T04:34:22.993" LastActivityDate="2020-10-12T04:34:22.993" Title="Ender 3 Pro extruder drive rocking back and forth" Tags="|creality-ender-3|extrusion|wiring|extruder-driver|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11264" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11263" CreationDate="2019-10-30T04:09:40.167" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sounds like one end or the other in your stepper cable is not seated correctly or has shaken loose there are 4 wires if even one doesn't make proper contact you will get a shaking back and forth almost like a hard vibration. I always take a cable from one of the other steppers plug into this one move the motor with good stepper wire 10-20&amp;nbsp;mm see what motor does if it is okay then you know it is a cable issue if not, it could be a bad board or stepper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18992" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-10-30T05:59:12.483" LastActivityDate="2019-10-30T05:59:12.483" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11265" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11405" CreationDate="2019-10-30T14:44:22.523" Score="4" ViewCount="265" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Printrboard rev. D which includes Allegro A4982 drivers. I would like to replace them, but it appears that newer TMC drivers all require several pins for proper operation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZnRf5.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZnRf5.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I upgrade the drivers in the Printrboard rev. D?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2338" LastActivityDate="2019-11-20T16:25:56.010" Title="How can I upgrade the drivers in the Printrboard rev. D?" Tags="|stepper-driver|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11266" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-10-30T18:03:36.297" Score="5" ViewCount="373" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Colido 2.0 printer that I cannot seem to get a print centered on the plate. I am using Slic3r and OctoPrint. If I use Repetier Host directly connected, I can get it to print correctly. I'm guessing Slic3r is the culprit but I can't find where. Any suggestions?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can't post a picture of the actual print. It is printing partially off what would be the left side of the bed according to Slic3r.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nuahm.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nuahm.png&quot; alt=&quot;slic3r centered&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VhGoC.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;screenshot of the bed shape graphical user interface&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VhGoC.png&quot; alt=&quot;screenshot of the bed shape graphical user interface&quot; title=&quot;screenshot of the bed shape graphical user interface&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18996" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-11-01T15:41:12.663" LastActivityDate="2019-11-02T23:45:06.483" Title="Print not centered" Tags="|slic3r|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11267" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7989" CreationDate="2019-10-30T21:14:34.533" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It’s possible to use a heat gun to smooth it off after removing the majority of the supports. It creates a glossy effect as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18867" LastActivityDate="2019-10-30T21:14:34.533" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11268" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-10-31T02:56:02.650" Score="5" ViewCount="3937" Body="&lt;p&gt;So, I like to take off my glass build plate from my printer bed because I don't like to put any force on the bed bearings but this presents an issue. I have an inductive bed leveling probe and each time I remove the plate the Z offset seems to be off on the next print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Instead of re-leveling my bed and setting the Z offset by hand, I thought of adding starting G-code to do that for me but I've hit a snag. I have an Ender 3 and use Slic3r.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The sequence of events I would like is as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;code&gt;G28&lt;/code&gt; - home axis&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;code&gt;G0 X150 Y130 Z5&lt;/code&gt; - Moves to X150 Y130 Z5&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;code&gt;G30 S1&lt;/code&gt; - Performs a bed leveling probe at the current point. This raises the head 10&amp;nbsp;mm and stops when the probe is triggered. The current Z height this stops at is what I want for the next command. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;code&gt;M851 Z&lt;/code&gt;[insert Z height from prev command here]&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know Slic3r has these placeholder values for some commands like &lt;code&gt;M109 S&lt;/code&gt;[temperature_0] in the square brackets. Is there one for the current Z height?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18999" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-10-31T09:52:19.900" LastActivityDate="2019-10-31T11:06:58.647" Title="Starting G-code for auto Z probe offset" Tags="|marlin|creality-ender-3|slic3r|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11269" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4263" CreationDate="2019-10-31T07:38:21.203" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;In additional to Sergey's answer &lt;code&gt;M420 S1&lt;/code&gt; should be put into custom start G-code. By default Marlin disables autobed after &lt;code&gt;G28&lt;/code&gt; unless specifically configured otherwise&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;/**&#xA;* Normally G28 leaves leveling disabled on completion. Enable&#xA;* this option to have G28 restore the prior leveling state.&#xA;*/&#xA;#define RESTORE_LEVELING_AFTER_G28&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19003" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2023-07-10T00:00:03.137" LastActivityDate="2023-07-10T00:00:03.137" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11270" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-10-31T08:38:27.627" Score="4" ViewCount="339" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am printing ABS in an enclosure and most of the prints have worked out well with minor tweaking. However, the top layer always seems to split or skip a step (not sure which).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZtGE7.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Split top layer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZtGE7.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Split top layer&quot; title=&quot;Split top layer&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aXANy.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Layer was peeled of on previous prints&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aXANy.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Layer was peeled of on previous prints&quot; title=&quot;Layer was peeled of on previous prints&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The cube is sliced in Ultimaker Cura 4.3.0 with 0.2 mm layer height, 0.4 mm nozzle, 80 °C bed on lexan and a 235 °C hotend.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The G-code to the calibration cube/chep's calibration cube is attached: &lt;a href=&quot;https://drive.google.com/file/d/1GekxfKeUgv337_r0DeJ6_2JTWV_fT1_R/view?usp=sharing&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;code&gt;PI3XL_CHEPCalibrationCube.gcode&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While I'm on the subject of slicing and calibration my calibration angle is coming out as before in Simplify3D, this time the layers look great but the onion skinning within the print itself so I could actually separate the calibration angle like an onion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19004" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2021-05-01T06:14:44.250" LastActivityDate="2024-01-22T11:02:40.350" Title="ABS prints consistently splitting in the same place" Tags="|print-quality|filament|ultimaker-cura|octoprint|layer-height|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11271" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11268" CreationDate="2019-10-31T10:48:34.497" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The inductive sensors trigger to the metal plate under the glass bed. This implies that if you remove the slate of glass, the distance between the trigger point and the print bed is increased by the thickness of the glass slate. But, the trigger point is still exactly the same as if there were a slate of glass (as it triggers on the metal bed underneath). This extra distance need to be compensated for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The method you are using is incorrect in determining the distance between the nozzle and bed with respect to the sensor trigger point. &lt;a href=&quot;/a/5858/&quot;&gt;This answer&lt;/a&gt; on question: &lt;a href=&quot;/q/5857&quot;&gt;&quot;Z Offset on autoleveling sensor setup&quot;&lt;/a&gt; describes how you need to determine the distance between nozzle and bed from the trigger point. It includes a manual step to lower the nozzle a paper thickness above the build plate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you insist on using G-code (e.g. in your start G-code script), you can redefine the Z=0 level by adding a G-code &lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#G92:_Set_Position&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;code&gt;G92&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/a&gt;. In case of a 3&amp;nbsp;mm glass plate, you should add after the homing (&lt;code&gt;G28&lt;/code&gt;) and probing of the bed (&lt;code&gt;G29&lt;/code&gt;) the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;G1 Z0  ; This will move the nozzle to Z=0 as if there was a slate of glass, &#xA;         but in fact it is still 3 mm offset&#xA;G92 Z3 ; This redefines the old Z=0 (with glass) to be Z=3 mm&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-10-31T11:06:58.647" LastActivityDate="2019-10-31T11:06:58.647" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11272" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11274" CreationDate="2019-11-01T02:43:45.477" Score="7" ViewCount="1888" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know this will be a really obvious question to some people, but I have bricked about 3 boards doing this so I want to be certain before I brick a fourth. I don't have a lot of experience working with AC voltage, especially crimping / hacking it like what's going on here. Trust me it was my last resort to ask this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically, as a chamber heater I'm using some 120V heat lamps (here in the U.S.). The problem seems to be that when I connect my laptop to the board (if the laptop is plugged in, which it has to be for long-term serial control), sometimes I:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hear an electric shock sound -- the board is fried&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Don't hear an electric shock sound -- the board is fried, though&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I interpret from this is that I'm stupidly wiring the 120V heat lamps incorrectly relative to my 3D printer board, such that when I connect it to my charging laptop via USB, the AC voltages are out of phase, causing my board to be fried. Alternatively, it's the 12V/24V power supply that's wired wrong relative to everything else, which also needs to be wired to the same polarity.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hPD8v.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hPD8v.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was on the understanding that when crimping a three-wire male electrical cord:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;White = Neutral&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Black = Hot (or Load)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Green = Ground&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;... reinforced on the left side of the below image as well: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HgeRE.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HgeRE.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, I know that much already. &lt;strong&gt;The question is&lt;/strong&gt;, when I connect this AC outlet to a &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B00LW15D1M&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;relay&lt;/a&gt; like this, I got &lt;code&gt;NO&lt;/code&gt;, &lt;code&gt;COM&lt;/code&gt;, &lt;code&gt;NC&lt;/code&gt; on one side and &lt;code&gt;IN&lt;/code&gt;, &lt;code&gt;DC+&lt;/code&gt;, &lt;code&gt;DC-&lt;/code&gt; on the other. Which wire goes to &lt;code&gt;COM&lt;/code&gt;, and which goes to &lt;code&gt;D-&lt;/code&gt;? The board uses &lt;code&gt;COM&lt;/code&gt; to denote the voltage that is switched 'on' by the relay, and &lt;code&gt;D-&lt;/code&gt; to denote whatever the shared ground is among, the 3D printer, heat lamp, printer board, etc... (For more info, see link to relay)&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nuc81.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nuc81.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This 5V relay says it supports AC loads being managed by an arduino / 3D printer, so I was under the impression that I could connect the white wire to its &lt;code&gt;D-&lt;/code&gt; pin (which also should receive the &quot;GND&quot; for my 3D printer board) and the black wire to its &lt;code&gt;COM&lt;/code&gt; pin. However, what do I do about the green wire? Nothing? Also, was it wrong for me to assume it would support this function when the Arduino is connected to a charging laptop via USB?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically, I just need to be sure that my laptop (3-prong), power supply (3-prong), heat lamps (2 or 3 prong) and relay (only 2-prong) all have matching polarities and don't cause an electric shock or fry my board. But I am getting really conflicting results and frying a lot of boards, probably by overthinking this. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10369" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2019-11-01T08:30:00.893" LastActivityDate="2019-11-01T17:42:44.557" Title="How to wire for AC mains voltage relay, when printer board is connected to AC-charging laptop computer?" Tags="|wiring|chamber|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11273" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11272" CreationDate="2019-11-01T08:55:28.263" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;You need to take a step back and think about what you are doing. From what I read there you are connecting the neutral to the low voltage. You should definitely not mix connections between your high and low voltage side. I think you are lucky to not have broken more things than the logic board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I quickly drafted this to show the idea.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0UIZT.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0UIZT.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The relay provides isolation so you do not want any connections crossing over that electrically connects the sides. So you keep the 120V mains stuff on one side and the other side you connect to your logic board and printer supply.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The grounds you can join to a common point or printer frame. I would never join L or N from different cables because at least here in Northern Europe our outlets are not keyed and can be rotated 180-degrees swapping L &amp;amp; N which would create a dead short.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14957" LastEditorUserId="14957" LastEditDate="2019-11-01T09:07:34.723" LastActivityDate="2019-11-01T09:07:34.723" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11274" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11272" CreationDate="2019-11-01T09:11:37.037" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;In effect, the ground (from mains) does not need to be connected to the relay, the relay interrupts the &quot;hot&quot; or &quot;neutral&quot; (preferably the &quot;hot&quot;, but that is not possible for all plugs, e.g. some European plugs can be inserted 180&amp;deg; turned into the sockets). You connect one of the interrupted wires to the &lt;code&gt;COM&lt;/code&gt;, the other interrupted wire (that goes to the lamps) to the &lt;code&gt;NO&lt;/code&gt; (or the &lt;code&gt;NC&lt;/code&gt;, depending on safety, the logic and/or preference). The ground wire from the mains power socket is not necessary at all (some lamp amratures require this to be connected though). See a schematic below, it uses an Arduino Uno, but you can think of it being the printer board. Note to never connect the ground from mains to the printer board directly!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oKLoi.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Connecting lamp to relay&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oKLoi.png&quot; alt=&quot;Connecting lamp to relay&quot; title=&quot;Connecting lamp to relay&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sub&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://osoyoo.com/2017/08/28/arduino-lesson-1-channel-relay-module&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Image based on source: osoyoo.com&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The logic (low voltage side of the relay) needs to be wired as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;code&gt;DC+&lt;/code&gt; is the voltage power supply of the relay module, this is frequently +5&amp;nbsp;V, but some modules use +3.3&amp;nbsp;V (sometimes there is a jumper cap to select the voltage)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;code&gt;DC-&lt;/code&gt; is the ground from the printer board&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;code&gt;IN&lt;/code&gt; is the trigger that needs to be connected to the port on the printer board that electronically switches the relay&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-11-01T15:35:48.977" LastActivityDate="2019-11-01T15:35:48.977" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11275" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11272" CreationDate="2019-11-01T14:02:48.343" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Let's look at the notes on the relay first, as these tell us what to connect the terminals to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Powered side&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;code&gt;NO&lt;/code&gt;/&lt;code&gt;NC&lt;/code&gt; - Normally Open/Normally Closed lead. Which you use determines the switching behavior: open line on signal (NC) or closed line on signal (NO). Connect this to the powered component.&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;For heater components &lt;strong&gt;it is best to use NO&lt;/strong&gt;, as a failure of a signal automatically stops heating, making this a safety means! If any of the supply wires are ripped or pulled from the terminals or the board is fried, the power of the heater doesn't come through.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;code&gt;COM&lt;/code&gt; - Common. This is the other lead of the switch part of the component, the line that transports the power to the switch. Connect this to the power supply.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Low Voltage signal side&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;code&gt;IN&lt;/code&gt; - Input. Here the switch signal goes in&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;This is a 5 V Signal&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;code&gt;DC+&lt;/code&gt;/&lt;code&gt;DC-&lt;/code&gt; - This is the power supply for the switch and should be the same as the power supply for the Board. Check your Rating! &#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Red &quot;High&quot; on DC+ &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Black &quot;Low&quot; on DC-&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lzuv9.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lzuv9.png&quot; alt=&quot;Wiring Diagram&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note I used European colors to differentiate the 5 V side from the mains-power side better. You have your Neutral in white, Phase in black, Ground in green on your Power Supply picture. This &lt;a href=&quot;https://paladintech.files.wordpress.com/2014/10/2014-10-11-18.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;color conversion&lt;/a&gt; can be handy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the heater lamp has a connection for the ground wire, use it! This should be the same ground wire the power supply is connected to, to ensure safety.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2019-11-01T16:16:58.723" LastActivityDate="2019-11-01T16:16:58.723" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11276" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11272" CreationDate="2019-11-01T16:01:35.113" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Mains electric specialist here.  When working in mains power, mechanical execution of work is &lt;em&gt;everything&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first rule is do not casually mess around with mains power -- it will kill you! If you've done a lot of low-voltage tinkering with jury-rigged wires splayed all over the place -- &lt;strong&gt;do not do that with mains wiring. Ever&lt;/strong&gt;.  Break that habit with mains! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The second rule is hard separation.  It is absolutely forbidden, for instance, to have low voltage wires intermingled with mains in a jumble, even inside a metal box.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;A &quot;Chinese wall&quot; between mains and low-voltage&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By which I &lt;em&gt;don't&lt;/em&gt; mean low quality.  Generally all wires associated with mains should be inside a grounded metal enclosure, and all low-voltage wires should be outside that enclosure, or separated by a physical divider. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is an ideal setup that will pass muster.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A standard square drawn steel junction box, with knockout holes, \$1&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a #10-32 ground screw for that hole on the bump&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A cover plate, \$1, made to take ....&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;... two common receptacles, but get the higher quality &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.handymanhowto.com/electrical-outlets-side-wire-versus-back-wire/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;screw-and-clamp type&lt;/a&gt; - $2.50 each so we can use stranded wire.  I'm assuming you have more than 2 lights.  If not, you can wire this thing so half the sockets are always-on.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a couple feet of #12 stranded THHN wire, each red, black and white  (20 cents/foot)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B00D5YLY2G&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;relay-transformer&lt;/a&gt; that mounts to a knockout hole.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hf7tS.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hf7tS.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bDm9j.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bDm9j.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BNSTY.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BNSTY.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For now just imagine 3 mains wires coming in: black hot, white neutral and green earth. Earth goes to that #10-32 screw hole on the bump, and the metal case grounds everything else. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.jlconline.com/how-to/electrical/q-a-to-pigtail-or-not-to-pigtail_o&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;pigtail&lt;/a&gt; wires on receptacles because it's easier, but it's also clearer for a novice (than using a receptacle as a splice block). On the receptacles, pigtail neutral with &lt;strong&gt;white&lt;/strong&gt;.  Hot gets a &lt;strong&gt;red&lt;/strong&gt; pigtail if switched, and &lt;strong&gt;black&lt;/strong&gt; if always-on. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fit the relay into a knockout hole, mains wires inward.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now you have a bunch of black, red, and white wires.  Join them by color! Easy peasy!  This is why I made such a fuss about getting 3 colors of THHN wire. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Button it all up, and the mains work is done.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Getting power into our box&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I glossed over bringing mains supply into this box.  Let's review that further. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That junction box is made to mount on a wall.  It's a code violation to use it as a portable box (but lots of people do). However you must use &lt;strong&gt;cordage&lt;/strong&gt; (SJOW, SJOOW etc.) not in-wall wiring (NM, THHN, UF).  I just buy a 14 AWG extension cord and lop the socket off. Visit the electrical supply house (Greybar, not Mouser) and get a strain relief that'll fit that cord and a knockout hole. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to mount it on the wall over another box, they make special 4&quot; square boxes for that. If the existing box is a similar box, they make &quot;extension boxes&quot; with open backs.  They also make ones designed to go over top of a 1-gang box that is metal or plastic.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UDuin.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UDuin.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you need the existing outlet space on the wall, you can use surface conduit systems like Legrand Wiremold (not to be confused with cable organizers intended for low-voltage cables only). You extend off an existing outlet, leaving that with its original function, then run surface conduit to another box, where you mount these items.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Make the system talk to it&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That was a lot of heavy lifting, but the rest is downhill. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the above relay, you simply attach 2 wires to W and R.  (in fact, common thermostat cable is &quot;W&quot;hite and &quot;R&quot;ed, coincidence: not). If you short those wires to each other, the relay operates and the lights turn on. Use an appropriate relay if needed.  There is low voltage AC on these wires (24VAC between them, 34V peak, isolated from earth and mains) which means you can route these wires without mains-level protection. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They make other relay-transformers, but I really like how this one puts the low-voltage on opposite sides of the knockout from the mains.   They also make cheaper relays that accept 24VDC or even 12VDC, but then you have to supply that. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19011" LastEditorUserId="19011" LastEditDate="2019-11-01T17:42:44.557" LastActivityDate="2019-11-01T17:42:44.557" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11277" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11266" CreationDate="2019-11-01T16:07:40.423" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;From your screenshots of the bed shape can be seen that the bed size is defined as 228&amp;nbsp;x&amp;nbsp;150&amp;nbsp;mm with a definition of the origin at (0, 0).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From an &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B012UC7T1I&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;internet search&lt;/a&gt; the bed size of the Colido 2.0 is found to be  225&amp;nbsp;x&amp;nbsp;145&amp;nbsp;x&amp;nbsp;150&amp;nbsp;mm. This implies that the current setup is slightly incorrect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that this needs to coincide with the way the firmware has been configured. The &lt;a href=&quot;/a/11259/&quot;&gt;accepted answer&lt;/a&gt; on question: &lt;a href=&quot;/q/11228&quot;&gt;&quot;What determines print start location on the build plate?&quot;&lt;/a&gt; shows that the origin not necessarily need to be at the corner of the build plate, it can also be at the center; this depends on the firmware brand. &lt;a href=&quot;/a/11243&quot;&gt;This answer&lt;/a&gt; explains that you can find out where the origin is located. Basically, you need to prepare a G-code file containing at least homing (&lt;code&gt;G28&lt;/code&gt;), optionally bed levelling if your printer has auto bed levelling (&lt;code&gt;G29&lt;/code&gt;) and a move to the origin (&lt;code&gt;G1 X0 Y0 Z15 F500&lt;/code&gt;); &lt;em&gt;note a Z of 15 is chosen for safety!&lt;/em&gt;. You can edit an existing G-code file for this or create a new text file from scratch saving the file with a &lt;code&gt;.g&lt;/code&gt; extension. When this is &quot;printed&quot;/executed, the nozzle should be at the (elevated, so X, Y) origin as defined by your firmware. Usually this is at the left front corner of your build plate (there may be clips there, so therefore the elevated value), but can also be the center of the plate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the nozzle centers in the middle of the build plate, the bed shape configuration should be altered to put the origin in the center of the build plate, so 225/2=112.5 for X and 145/2=72.5 for Y.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-11-02T23:45:06.483" LastActivityDate="2019-11-02T23:45:06.483" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11278" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-11-01T19:06:38.113" Score="3" ViewCount="1939" Body="&lt;p&gt;I got a Wanhao Duplicator 6 printer branded as a Monoprice Ultimate about a year an and a half ago, 6 months after I got it I decided I hated the buildplate (I had to use a gluestick on every print to get it to stay down) so I removed the original fake buildtak, and got a piece of borosilicate glass and a sheet of PEI that I attached to it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Yl5Ns.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Glass buildplate on top of aluminum bed, covered with PEI&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Yl5Ns.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Glass buildplate on top of aluminum bed, covered with PEI&quot; title=&quot;Glass buildplate on top of aluminum bed, covered with PEI&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After about 8 months I started noticing issues with my bed being weird and never really being level no matter how much time I spent leveling it. (I level my buildplate by printing giant concentric circles, comparing the thickness based on the color in different portions, and turning knobs based on that.)  Today after an hour of trying to level my bed I decided to just print the model I was going to print anyways (a pyramid model) and discovered why it never seemed level. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Q5hTb.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;A single printed layer of gold silk PLA from tty3d&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Q5hTb.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;A single printed layer of gold silk PLA from tty3d&quot; title=&quot;A single printed layer of gold silk PLA from tty3d&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems that different portions of my buildplate are at significantly different heights. Is there something I did wrong to cause this to happen, does it just happen over time, and is there anything I can do to fix it? My current plan is just to buy another sheet of the PEI and stick it directly to the aluminum buildplate installed on the printer. It would result in MUCH better thermal transfer between the heater and the PEI anyways, which is important because the whole point of PEI is that it sticks to PLA extremely well at high temperatures, and not very well at low temps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If nobody knows what might cause this I'm just going to go ahead and get an new sheet of PEI and omit the glass (it was a bad idea anyways). Thanks for reading.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19013" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-12-10T17:20:57.857" LastActivityDate="2020-01-19T01:23:27.067" Title="Build plate (PEI on glass) isn't flat after several months of use?" Tags="|build-plate|wanhao|monoprice-maker-ultimate|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11282" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5395" CreationDate="2019-11-02T20:37:23.960" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;This may be too late to help, but I wanted to describe my own experience with the Lulzbot Taz Dual Extruder v3.  It was...&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.amazon.com/gp/customer-reviews/R259P3UB6DJYQ3?ref=pf_ov_at_pdctrvw_srp&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;not good&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In terms of your question, I spent a fair amount of time trying to do exactly this.  It is possible, but there are some major caveats:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If you are not printing with both extruders, you need to leave the one not in use unloaded.  The reason for this is that, at least with PLA, the extruder not in use will get hot enough to drip.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The Cura-Lulzbot software, at least when I used it last year, doesn't deal well with this.  It tends to default to printing with both extruders, and it made slicing much more complicated than it was with a single extruder.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As such, I personally gave up and swapped my old single extruder back in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This isn't meant to contradict the other answer.  In theory it should be workable.  But in practice, with the device you mention, it's not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12629" LastActivityDate="2019-11-02T20:37:23.960" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11283" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-11-03T00:12:11.557" Score="7" ViewCount="13318" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought a BigTreeTech SKR v1.3 main board and a P.I.N.D.A v2 for my P3Steel MGN. Does anyone know to wire them together and which part in Marlin 2 do I need to change? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19031" LastEditorUserId="4922" LastEditDate="2021-04-21T13:22:38.553" LastActivityDate="2021-04-21T13:22:38.553" Title="How to wire P.I.N.D.A. v2 to an SKR V1.3 board?" Tags="|firmware|wiring|skr-v1.3|inductive-sensor|bigtreetech|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11284" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-11-03T00:25:46.770" Score="2" ViewCount="616" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am using the Octoprint Bed Visualizer on my Ender 3/BLTouch setup.  When it moves to the front left corner, the BLTouch sensor nearly misses the bed touching the very edge.  Likewise, it is shifted fairly far forward in the back.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it possible to shift the Y axis only for the visualizer?  I see there is an &lt;a href=&quot;http://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M206.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;M206 gcode&lt;/a&gt; that apparently does this, but putting the code into the Visualizer settings doesn't seem to make a difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;UPDATE&lt;/strong&gt;: I checked the firmware settings and they are set as follows, which seem correct,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;X_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER -41&#xA;Y_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER -5&#xA;X_BED_SIZE 235&#xA;Y_BED_SIZE 235&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19032" LastEditorUserId="19032" LastEditDate="2019-11-03T02:31:23.707" LastActivityDate="2019-11-03T02:31:23.707" Title="Adjust Y axis only for Octoprint Bed Visualizer" Tags="|octoprint|y-axis|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11285" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11286" CreationDate="2019-11-03T15:41:37.627" Score="11" ViewCount="11343" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a basic Creality Ender-3 with a black rough bed cover. I'm printing with PLA.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After assembly, I printed 3 or 4 small toys sliced by Cura with basic settings. All were printed very well!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, after that, extruded filament would not stick to the bed. I tried the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bed calibration with A4 paper (each corner with a tight nozzle to paper and repeated calibration again)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Once raised up the bed temperature from stock 50 to 60&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Washed the bed with a soap and water (and dried)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sprayed with a hair spray&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Changed the filament&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Nothing helped so far.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What else can I try?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19035" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-11-04T10:27:15.157" LastActivityDate="2021-02-22T21:54:09.430" Title="Why doesn't PLA stick to heated bed?" Tags="|pla|heated-bed|creality-ender-3|adhesion|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11286" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11285" CreationDate="2019-11-03T16:44:51.337" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think you may have used the wrong substance to clean your bed. Try using Isopropyl Alcohol (IPA). You may have left some residue behind from the soap, which is now interfering with adhesion. When that is done, ensure you've gone through the steps for bed leveling again. It's amazing how much of a difference proper bed leveling makes in adhesion. If it still doesn't work, post some pictures up of your results, which will help tremendously in getting you a better answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11242" LastActivityDate="2019-11-03T16:44:51.337" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11287" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11283" CreationDate="2019-11-04T07:39:15.927" Score="7" Body="&lt;h1&gt;TL;DR&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To answer your question how &lt;em&gt;(by assuming you have a 4 pins PINDA v2 sensor)&lt;/em&gt; to connect the sensor to your board, you have 2 options:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do not connect the white wire and treat the sensor as you would use a normal endstop switch (blue is ground, brown is +5 V, black is signal),&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Connect the 4 wires (use a splitter cable to split out into a 3 and 1 pin connector, see image below), use the additional pin to read the thermistor value through a free analogue pin, this requires you to do a lot of code changes if you are using a different firmware than the original Prusa firmware.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/e2cbM.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;PINDA v2 splitter cable&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/e2cbM.png&quot; alt=&quot;PINDA v2 splitter cable&quot; title=&quot;PINDA v2 splitter cable&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The PINDA v2 auto bed leveling sensor has an additional wire, usually these bed leveling sensors only have 3 wires (power, ground and signal). The PINDA v2 probe has an additional wire that is connected to a thermistor. This thermistor reading is used by Prusa to compensate the trigger distance with temperature variation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wetio.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;PINDA v2&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wetio.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;PINDA v2&quot; title=&quot;PINDA v2&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wiring the fourth pin would require to reverse engineer the logic behind the temperature compensation if you aren't using the firmware of Prusa (e.g. when you are using Marlin firmware; this is not very simple!). Do note this is something engineered by Prusa printing engineers and implemented in &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/prusa3d/Prusa-Firmware&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;their custom fork&lt;/a&gt; of &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Marlin firmware&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;E.g. the compensation is calculated in &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/prusa3d/Prusa-Firmware/blob/MK3/Firmware/Marlin_main.cpp&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Marlin_main.cpp&lt;/a&gt; by function &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/prusa3d/Prusa-Firmware/blob/MK3/Firmware/Marlin_main.cpp#L9485&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;code&gt;temp_compensation_pinda_thermistor_offset&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/a&gt;. This function is called to return the offset based on the read temperature (actual calculation is done in &lt;code&gt;temp_comp_interpolation(temperature_pinda)&lt;/code&gt;):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&#xA;#ifdef PINDA_THERMISTOR&#xA;            offset_z = temp_compensation_pinda_thermistor_offset(current_temperature_pinda);&#xA;#endif //PINDA_THERMISTOR&#xA;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is perfectly fine to not connect the white wire, this is the signal needed to read out the thermistor value used for the temperature compensation. This will disable the compensation feature and will revert the sensor to a normal inductive sensor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:29:41.667" LastActivityDate="2019-11-04T15:47:05.373" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11288" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-11-04T14:32:13.430" Score="4" ViewCount="698" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have one 3D printer with Makerbot mk10 extruder and I would like to print my custom cup for tea or coffee from PC.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other than that, I came across idea that FDM printer will always leave small holes on a surface, so they will be a perfect place for bacteria and make them hard to clean for dishwasher.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as I know, we have several techniques of polishing, like acetone vapor bath for ABS, however, I haven’t heard about something like that for PC and not sure if it's food-safe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8008" LastEditorUserId="8008" LastEditDate="2019-11-04T20:28:23.817" LastActivityDate="2019-11-04T20:28:23.817" Title="Would PC be considered food-safe in this setup?" Tags="|extruder|post-processing|safety|filament-choice|food|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11290" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11297" CreationDate="2019-11-04T14:46:33.100" Score="11" ViewCount="2640" Body="&lt;p&gt;So while doing some research I stumbled upon a &lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/wiki/Glass_Nozzles#Step_1_Assemble_Parts_and_Tools&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;wiki page on reprap&lt;/a&gt; from a few years back where the user was creating a glass nozzle to replace the brass and PTFE assembly.&lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/wiki/Glass_Nozzles#Step_1_Assemble_Parts_and_Tools&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;1&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know the theory behind this? Glass is a great insulator so I could see how that would be beneficial for the heat break part but I can't see how it is appropriate for the nozzle as this is normally brass which is a good conductor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Surely the glass takes much more energy to heat up?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On a side note I've seen similar projects using ceramic instead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19038" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2019-11-05T06:57:10.993" LastActivityDate="2019-11-08T17:57:58.207" Title="What is the purpose behind a glass nozzle?" Tags="|nozzle|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11291" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11290" CreationDate="2019-11-04T15:24:44.560" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ceramic I can understand - very strong, great thermal range capability.  Glass not so much - you'd need some seriously careful annealing at least.&lt;br&gt;&#xA; In either case the material is much harder than brass, or even steel, so you could presumably use tougher tools to unclog, etc. as needed.  If you're using materials loaded with wood or metallic particles, the glass/ceramic tip will be less likely to degrade than brass. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;BTW, glass being a thermal insulator means it may take &lt;em&gt;longer&lt;/em&gt; to heat up, but the &lt;em&gt;energy&lt;/em&gt; required is probably less . The specific heat of glass is on the order of .84 J/gm-K . Compare with brass at  0.38 , but keep in mind the rate at which brass will shed heat into the air vs. glass.  In either case the energy is tiny compared with the thermal mass of the hotend assembly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2191" LastActivityDate="2019-11-04T15:24:44.560" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11292" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11265" CreationDate="2019-11-04T15:55:33.137" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can't. In fact, pretty much all boards with directly soldered drivers are not upgradable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd recommend to buy a proper, contemporary, customizable board like the SKR 1.3 for TMCs.&#xA;The Fysetc F6 would also work, but uses &quot;custom&quot; connectors and is still AVR based.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13171" LastActivityDate="2019-11-04T15:55:33.137" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11293" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11288" CreationDate="2019-11-04T19:01:34.263" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I also print coffee mugs.  I have used ABS for a long time, and, given the statements here and elsewhere about bacterial growth sites, have been attaching my life to a thread.  That's fine for me, but I don't make mugs for anyone else.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are three areas of concern I've found so far:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The plastic may be toxic,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The machine itself, especially the nozzle, my deposit bits of lead (Pb) into the object, and&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The small gaps may harbor pathogenic bacteria.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The toxicity of the plastic can be addressed by researching the FDA website.  ABS is generally safe, although additives could be questionable.  Also, for some reason the FDA lists ABS as safe, but not for use with alcohol -- so much for beer steins.  Since the actual MSDS for hobbyist filaments can be hard to get, I'm considering using a less controversial plastic.  PETG isn't good enough -- it softens at the temperature of boiling water (I know, I've tried).  My next attempt at non-ABS will be Poly Carbonate.  I have a spool queued up, but it is as yet untried.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The nozzle can be replaced with a stainless steel nozzle, which does not contain lead.  Perhaps because they aren't heated, no one seems concerned about brass feed gears in the extruder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The layer gaps might be addressable by acetone smoothing.  I haven't had great results smoothing mugs.  The first problem is that after smoothing a lot of acetone remains in the ABS.  Even after a couple of weeks, when hot water is poured into the mug the acetone in the plastic vaporizes and creates bubbles in the surface, which completely defeats the purpose.  I've also seen more long-term age-related cracking in vapor-treated ABS.  This could also be due to gradually losing acetone and the surface shrinking.  If one were to use acetone smoothing, I would suggest post-conditioning the mug in a heated, partial vacuum chamber to encourage the acetone to escape.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The method I intend to try to seal the inside of the cup is to use a food-grade two-part epoxy.  I haven't done it yet, so I don't know how it will work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2082" LastActivityDate="2019-11-04T19:01:34.263" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11294" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11290" CreationDate="2019-11-05T00:32:00.827" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The glass nozzle might be beneficial with abrasive filaments with metal particles that would wear down the brass. As glass can be reasonably easily shaped into a nozzle with standard DIY-tools it might be an interesting project. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A commercial nozzle for filaments with extreme abrasive properties is the Olsson Ruby nozzle. These are designed to hold an actual ruby in it, though ruby is probably not feasible for a DIY-nozzle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19054" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2019-11-08T17:57:58.207" LastActivityDate="2019-11-08T17:57:58.207" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11295" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-11-05T02:15:59.070" Score="3" ViewCount="953" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a RAMPS 1.4 tester code for Arduino MEGA, only need stepper motors and drivers connected. The code in a working setup moves steppers in both directions but in my setup does something wrong:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Extruder 0 , Axis X/Y only moves in 1 direction all time.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Extruder 1 , Axis Z works fine in both direction&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I changed stepper drivers but always Extruder 0, Axis X/Y were moving in same direction all time.Tried 2 differents RAMPS 1.4 shields with same results in tester code, Sprinter or Marlin. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have the code if someone wants, it works fine in other setups.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What could be the problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19055" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-11-05T05:26:28.910" LastActivityDate="2019-11-06T14:23:10.873" Title="Some steppers only rotate one way on RAMPS 1.4" Tags="|marlin|arduino|ramps|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11296" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11290" CreationDate="2019-11-05T13:26:38.330" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The glass nozzle was an attempt to be able to see the plastic filament melting and to see what is happening during retraction. I also though to use a glass nozzle to heat the plastic to just under melting point then use a LED laser (10 Watts thereabout) to heat just the tip of the plastic through the nozzle to bring it to the final temp where it would melt. Turns out it is unneeded, and lasers waste a lot of energy as heat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12857" LastActivityDate="2019-11-05T13:26:38.330" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11297" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11290" CreationDate="2019-11-05T13:31:10.577" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;First off, this is not a glass nozzle, it is a whole hotend design. A super simplistic one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Glass is, like ceramics, not a good thermal conductor but has a quite good thermal resistance - it only melts at about 1600 °C, which means you will never have to fight melting or warping of the filament path itself at all - the heater copper wire will melt at about 1084 °C, so way before the glass, and most plastics that are printable start to decompose at less than 400°C.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Construction-wise, this design has some benefits:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Due to the design and material properties, this hotend doesn't need cooling fins and a &quot;coldend&quot; is not needed at all.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The whole hotend being one solid piece makes it pretty much a &quot;plug and play&quot; item and prevents leaks.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Glass is extremely abrasive resistant. This means a glass nozzle could be used for stuff like carbon fiber filament very long.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Glass can be molten, repaired and modified with fairly simple equipment, e.g. a burner and some skill.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Glass could be easily cleaned up to medical and food-grade machine ratings. The simplicity of the hotend assembly could make it autoclavable as a whole piece.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It has some downsides though:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Glass is brittle and does not take lateral forces and sharp impacts kindly. In other words: Handle with extreme care.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Due to the glass being an insulator, the inside of the hotend will have a lower temperature than the outside. &#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A fairly thin-walled meltzone could mitigate this problem to some degree at the downside of making it even more prone to breaking&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The insulating behavior means, that the meltzone has to directly feed into the nozzle with as little unheated area as possible to prevent the molten plastic from solidifying inside the nozzle again.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The skill needed to create a properly sized nozzle from glass is tremendous.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2019-11-05T23:04:32.523" LastActivityDate="2019-11-05T23:04:32.523" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11298" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11290" CreationDate="2019-11-05T15:39:54.500" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;One shortcoming would be that when it comes back to lay down a new line next to an existing line, I would think that it would need to be able to melt the previously printed plastic, especially any bumps and strings.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;High thermal conductivity for good heat flow seems important.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19058" LastActivityDate="2019-11-05T15:39:54.500" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11299" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11285" CreationDate="2019-11-05T15:47:32.823" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Set the bed temperature to the glass transition temperature, around 80 °C for PLA:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Filament is slippery and non-adhesive at room temperature&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Filament becomes sticky when near its melting temperature&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Printed items can pop off of the bed by themselves when cool.  This shows that they become less sticky when cool&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was told about this and have been successfully printing PLA without rafts, brims, skirts, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Try a tiny print such as a small temperature tower to start.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note:  I've only been using PETG recently and continue using 80 °C; perhaps a bit of 'elephant foot' occurs.  However I'm primarily doing structural prints (tools, cord hangers, etc.) and strength and print reliability (tall prints not coming loose during printing) are my highest priorities.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I appreciate the suggestion of dropping to 75 °C for later layers and will try that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19058" LastEditorUserId="19058" LastEditDate="2021-02-22T21:36:16.703" LastActivityDate="2021-02-22T21:36:16.703" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11300" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-11-05T23:13:15.840" Score="6" ViewCount="9602" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently got a Creality Ender-3, and tried printing a few things for some tests. I’ve printed a cube and just printed a cylindrical tube today, and I notice each time, it adds this random line on the left and a sort of outline around the actual print. Neither of these were there in my Cura file, but they’re always printed and I’m not sure why?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SyhGh.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SyhGh.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19062" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2019-11-06T13:44:27.173" LastActivityDate="2020-01-03T21:55:14.563" Title="Random lines are being printed?" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|creality-ender-3|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11301" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8242" CreationDate="2019-11-06T00:32:30.853" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Double check the physical connection to the heating element and the thermistor that go in the hot end. Those wires and crimps aren't great. I had one fail on me out of the box with my A8. Re-crimping did the trick.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19063" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-11-06T05:36:09.167" LastActivityDate="2019-11-06T05:36:09.167" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11303" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11300" CreationDate="2019-11-06T05:47:49.967" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The outline around the actual print is called &lt;strong&gt;Skirts&lt;/strong&gt;. and the random line on the left is called &lt;strong&gt;intro line&lt;/strong&gt; it's not necessary you need both Skirt and intro line. The intro line can disable from custom starting gcode settings&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A skirt is an outline that surrounds your part but does not touch the part.&#xA;The skirt is extruded on the print bed before starting to print your model. Skirts serve a useful purpose because they help &lt;strong&gt;prime your extruder and establish a smooth flow of filament&lt;/strong&gt;.  Observing the skirt also allows you to &lt;strong&gt;detect and adjust any leveling or adhesion issues&lt;/strong&gt; before the actual model begins printing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can easily edit/disable(not recommended) those settings in Cura (or in any slicing software)&#xA;In you Cura navigate to &lt;strong&gt;Build Plate Adhesion&lt;/strong&gt; settings&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4pBQd.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4pBQd.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Skirt line count:&lt;/strong&gt; The number of skirt lines printed around the model.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Skirt distance:&lt;/strong&gt; The distance between the model and the skirt.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Skirt minimum length:&lt;/strong&gt; The total length of the skirt. This will&#xA;override the skirt line count when the minimum length is not reached&#xA;yet.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/P8ews.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/P8ews.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17500" LastActivityDate="2019-11-06T05:47:49.967" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11304" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11300" CreationDate="2019-11-06T06:00:24.170" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the printer is printing, it is instructed to do so by the &lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/wiki/G-code&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;G-code&lt;/a&gt; file unless you are printing through an external software program that has extra G-code to print before your print starts. E.g. in OctoPrint print server it is possible to execute G-code before the print starts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Left line = Priming&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;strong&gt;straight line on the left&lt;/strong&gt; is typically &lt;strong&gt;used to prime the printer nozzle to get the filament flow starting&lt;/strong&gt;, this is typically seen in &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/prusa3d/PrusaSlicer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;PrusaSlicer&lt;/a&gt; (Prusa's fork of Open Source toolpath generator for 3D printers &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/slic3r&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Slic3r&lt;/a&gt;). &lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;This straight line is called priming line, purge line or intro line&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt;, and is typically (but not necessarily) printed outside or at the edge of the bed area. Furthermore, a prime line print routine will catch errant nozzle ooze, test extrusion (it is the first indication if the nozzle to bed distance is correct; if not you can abort with minimal material loss) and perform a final wipe action to avoid stringing between the prime line and start of the print. Note that this straight prime line is not a standard option in a &lt;em&gt;custom&lt;/em&gt; profile of Cura, so this was part of the Ender-3 Preset you imported or possibly you have copied a starting G-code that includes this prime line.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A typical set of G-code lines to create a prime/purge/intro line is found in your start G-code and could look similar to:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&#xA;G1 Y-3.0 F1000.0 ; go outside print area&#xA;G92 E0.0&#xA;G1 X60.0 E9.0 F1000.0 ; intro line&#xA;G1 X100.0 E12.5 F1000.0 ; intro line&#xA;G92 E0.0&#xA;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After slicing your object, you will find such lines in the generated G-code file, but they are not displayed in the preview. Further information can be found in &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6355/writing-g-code-swiping-at-start-of-print&quot;&gt;Writing G-code : swiping at start of print&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Equidistant line = Skirt&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;strong&gt;lines at distance from the print&lt;/strong&gt; object &lt;strong&gt;is called the &amp;quot;skirt&amp;quot;&lt;/strong&gt;, the skirt is an option found under the &amp;quot;Build Plate Adhesion&amp;quot; options in your slicer. The function of the skirt is similar as described for the straight prime line, but it has additional effects that can be wanted. It also shows fairly fast if the bed is unleveled as a whole or if the bed is greasy. Please look into: &lt;a href=&quot;/q/20&quot;&gt;&amp;quot;What are main differences between rafts, skirts and brims?&#xA;&amp;quot;&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that it is usually superfluous to use both the prime/purge/intro line and the skirt, both have a similar function. The benefit of the skirt is that you can configure it within the slicer (e.g. length of the printed skirt, height to use as a shield for draft or ooze and distance to product). The downside is, that a skirt limits the useable build area by the distance and width of the skirt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:29:41.667" LastActivityDate="2019-11-06T13:48:48.757" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11306" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11295" CreationDate="2019-11-06T12:20:56.827" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As towe said, it could be a dir pin ( can be checked by metering the dir connection), but in my experience this behavior has usually been a limit switch issue (as 0scar pointed out).  Try seeing if you have a limit switch setting somewhere that expects normally closed (assuming no limit switches are connected).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is also another possibility that has to do with microstepping on some drivers, but i'm guessing you are going for a rudimentary no microstepping test right now (and have configured jumpers appropriately).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18883" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2019-11-06T14:23:10.873" LastActivityDate="2019-11-06T14:23:10.873" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11307" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2019-11-06T14:07:28.303" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Glass or mirror beds are common to be used as print surface and offer the benefit of a very smooth surface, easy cleanability, and removability. After cool down, removing a print from them can be as easy as putting them in a fridge for a couple of minutes. Their downsides are that they are rather brittle and need a higher temperature because of the insulating properties of glass.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2019-11-06T14:07:28.303" LastActivityDate="2019-11-06T14:07:28.303" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11308" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2019-11-06T14:07:28.303" Score="0" Body="Use this tag for questions related to glass slates used as build plate platform." OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2019-11-06T14:07:28.303" LastActivityDate="2019-11-06T14:07:28.303" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11309" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-11-06T14:16:15.583" Score="8" ViewCount="1144" Body="&lt;p&gt;Removeable beds are starting to get more common in low-price consumer-grade printers. There are pretty much 3 types: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Unheated beds&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Heated beds from steel held by magnets or clips&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Heated glass beds held by clips&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unheated beds are the lowest class, and not an issue here. &lt;strong&gt;What are the pros and cons for a steel/springsteel bed versus a glass bed?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2020-01-13T13:36:25.083" LastActivityDate="2020-01-13T18:07:46.533" Title="Removeable Glass Bed vs. Removeable Springsteel Beds" Tags="|heated-bed|build-plate|glass-bed|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11311" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6572" CreationDate="2019-11-06T17:47:24.217" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, glass will warp. Think about it this way: the edges cannot be as hot as the centre if you use uniform heating, because they lose heat more quickly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the edges are colder, they are also shorter than the hotter centre, which expands more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the centre is longer than the edges, it will bend to accommodate the extra length.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can solve it by placing extra heating along the edges. Once you heat the edges more than the centre, the edges will pull apart the centre, which will result in a flat centre. However, the edges will deform as well, you need just a bit of stretch of the centre, but not so much that it pulls the edges back.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2338" LastEditorUserId="2338" LastEditDate="2019-11-06T22:18:46.720" LastActivityDate="2019-11-06T22:18:46.720" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11312" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5535" CreationDate="2019-11-07T13:38:12.190" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to the &lt;a href=&quot;http://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M109.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;code&gt;M109&lt;/code&gt; G-code the documentation&lt;/a&gt;, the printer will wait to reach temperature given with &lt;code&gt;S&lt;/code&gt; only when heating. With &lt;code&gt;R&lt;/code&gt;, the printer will wait also when cooling down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So if the &lt;a href=&quot;/a/5536&quot;&gt;answer of mac&lt;/a&gt; fails to work, try:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;M109 R60 ; wait for nozzle temp to drop to 60 °C&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19084" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-11-07T14:05:28.997" LastActivityDate="2019-11-07T14:05:28.997" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11313" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-11-07T14:48:30.823" Score="3" ViewCount="6048" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to install the USB drivers for the BIGTREETECH SKR Mini E3 v1.2 from the &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/bigtreetech/BIGTREETECH-SKR-mini-E3/tree/master/firmware?spm=a2g0s.imconversation.0.0.1f8f3e5fTFicN0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;GitHub&lt;/a&gt; page but I don't know how to proceed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any help will be greatly appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13327" LastEditorUserId="4922" LastEditDate="2021-04-21T13:22:15.053" LastActivityDate="2021-04-21T13:22:15.053" Title="How do I install the USB drivers for Bigtreetech's SKR Mini E3 v1.2?" Tags="|creality-ender-3|skr-mini-e3|bigtreetech|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11314" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-11-07T23:35:28.320" Score="2" ViewCount="795" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to the instructions I have read, you use the same output on the printers mainboard to control a 110&amp;nbsp;V heated bed with a solid state relay, as you do to power the 12/24&amp;nbsp;V heated bed that comes with the printer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The relay's datasheet states that its max input current is 25&amp;nbsp;mA, obviously a 12/24&amp;nbsp;V heated bed would draw a lot more than that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How does Marlin know that the heated bed pins are controlling a relay now instead of a bed directly, and therefore should limit their current output?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In other words: I am worried that if I just drop in the relay, it will burn up since the board still thinks it needs to supply high current to the bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13829" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-11-08T12:23:07.777" LastActivityDate="2019-11-08T16:30:46.853" Title="How to switch firmware from 12 V heated bed to 110 V SSR heated bed?" Tags="|heated-bed|wiring|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11315" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11314" CreationDate="2019-11-08T00:44:26.170" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are two current parameters which you are looking at in your instructions for the solid state relay. The first one (the 25mA) is for the &lt;em&gt;control&lt;/em&gt; circuit. This is how much amperage the device itself will draw when in operation. The second is for the &lt;em&gt;load&lt;/em&gt; circuit. This is the max amperage which can pass through the device.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your &lt;a href=&quot;https://pickercomponents.com/pdf/Relays/PCS15.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;instruction sheet&lt;/a&gt; shows the device having the ability to work at 10A, 15A, 20A, 25A, or 40A. These are different ratings for the same style of device. When you purchase the device, you'd need to specify which amperage rating you'd want your device to be at. They use the same spec sheet for all five flavors, because they are basically the same thing with the one exception, which is the amp rating.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11242" LastEditorUserId="11242" LastEditDate="2019-11-08T16:30:46.853" LastActivityDate="2019-11-08T16:30:46.853" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11316" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11318" CreationDate="2019-11-08T04:47:34.770" Score="1" ViewCount="2354" Body="&lt;p&gt;During long prints, my heat block becomes covered in whatever material I am printing. The plastic leaks from the junction between the heat break and the heat block, and runs down towards the nozzle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I frequently have problems with grinding of filament by the Bowden extruder. However, on the E3D Kraken with a Volcano block, if I use water cooling and a fan positioned just above the heat block, there is no grinding, and everything comes out fine. But the heat block grows a beard of plastic regardless if there is a fan over the heat break or not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I check my prints once every 2 hours and can wipe the heat block beard, but for overnight prints this isn't possible, so sometimes my prints will have random blobs from when the plastic leaks onto the print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have tried multiple nozzles and filaments! I print at only 60&amp;nbsp;mm/s. &lt;em&gt;Does the volcano block need faster print speeds to prevent this from happening?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I cant really figure out the root of the issue. If the rest of the print comes out fine, then why is there an issue?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10369" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2019-11-08T23:22:56.807" LastActivityDate="2019-11-08T23:22:56.807" Title="What causes leaking between the heat break and the heat block?" Tags="|hotend|e3d-kraken|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11317" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11314" CreationDate="2019-11-08T06:47:10.113" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;How does Marlin know that the heated bed pins are controlling a relay now instead of a bed directly, and therefore should limit their current output?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Marlin does not (need to) know this. Simply put, all Marlin does is switch on/off the &lt;em&gt;voltage&lt;/em&gt; at the heated bed output. The amount of current that will flow is a function of the voltage and the device connected. If you connect a heated bed to a 12&amp;nbsp;V voltage, a high current will flow. If you connect your relay to 12&amp;nbsp;V, only a small current will flow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;In other words- I am worried that if I just drop in the relay, it will burn up since the board still thinks it needs to supply high current to the bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You do not need to worry about this. Your question is essentially equivalent to this: &quot;&lt;em&gt;if I replace my 100W incandescent lightbulb with a 1W LED one, do I need to replace the light switch in the wall?&lt;/em&gt;&quot; The switch (i.e., your printer board/Marlin) does not care what load is connected to it, so long as it does not exceed the &lt;em&gt;maximum&lt;/em&gt; rated current.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastEditorUserId="26" LastEditDate="2019-11-08T08:54:51.157" LastActivityDate="2019-11-08T08:54:51.157" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11318" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11316" CreationDate="2019-11-08T10:49:52.710" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;A video I recently viewed (&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OzRAVkXjw3I&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;YouTube link&lt;/a&gt;) regarding installing a hot end assembly references the proper sequence of parts placement. Starting with the nozzle, thread it into the heater block until it is proud of the surface by a half of a millimeter, perhaps slightly more. The heat break is then threaded into the heater block until it contacts the nozzle. If not already in place, attach the heat sink.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The next step is to bring the assembly up to maximum temperature and re-tighten the nozzle assembly, obviously using great care due to the high temp.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The video specified that performing this sequence incorrectly would result in leakage from the assembly, which describes your troubles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastActivityDate="2019-11-08T10:49:52.710" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11319" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-11-08T13:08:06.350" Score="4" ViewCount="163" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know of any academic research behind 3D printer hot end/liquefier design?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All I’ve found is papers on liquefier dynamics where they model polymer flow and go so far as to compare the influence of nozzle geometry variables on the melt behaviour of the material. Also, I have found some papers on FEA of the heat sink.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other than that, no development or analysis seems to have been conducted on the hot end. Different nozzle materials and geometries? Different heater block geometries? Different heat break design? Different overall design? The effect of an angled hot end on the shear of polymer flow? Effects of melt zone length?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I understand the principles behind the current design, but it surprises me that no further work has been conducted. Everything seems to always point back to the RepRap design which appears to have only been produced through trial and error to reach a “it’s good enough” phase. Now that design seems to be followed as gospel by everyone else.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Apologies if this question is somewhat broad.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19038" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-11-08T13:21:38.157" LastActivityDate="2021-06-25T21:48:21.077" Title="Academic research behind hot end design?" Tags="|hotend|nozzle|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11321" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11330" CreationDate="2019-11-08T17:24:25.857" Score="3" ViewCount="16726" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am trying to increase the flow rate on my Ender 3 from 100 to 108 % but every time I start a new print it reverts back to the old 100 % flow rate. I have clicked through the settings and pressed the &quot;store settings&quot; button but it still reverts back at the start of every print. I don't want to do this in my slicer settings as I run 18 Ender 3's so I want to be able to use the same G-code for each.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17480" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-11-09T21:26:07.547" LastActivityDate="2021-05-05T09:31:10.513" Title="How do I set the flow rate on my Ender 3 Pro and have it stay at that percentage?" Tags="|creality-ender-3|firmware|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11322" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-11-08T18:07:52.600" Score="3" ViewCount="1651" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's common to use hairspray, especially AquaNet, as a bed adhesive. My understanding is this works because the spray includes a chemical called polyvinylpyrrolidone, or PVA.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What other brands of hairspray are known to contain this chemical in sufficient concentrations to work as an effective adhesive in 3D printing applications?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12562" LastActivityDate="2019-11-11T15:28:47.777" Title="What hairspray brands are known to contain PVA / PolyVinylpyrrolidone" Tags="|adhesion|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11323" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-11-09T09:46:46.843" Score="5" ViewCount="1342" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am getting thermal runaway even after PID autotunning many times. I tried 10, 15, 20, 25 and 30 cycles and after reuploading FW onto the printer but I still get the error... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've built a copy of Prusa's i3 mk2 by following &lt;a href=&quot;https://toms3d.org/2017/02/23/building-cheapest-possible-prusa-i3-mk2/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Building the cheapest possible Prusa i3 MK2&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have tried autotune with the cooling fan off, 50&amp;nbsp;%, and 100&amp;nbsp;%, but nothing changes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The printer is in a closed cabinet room.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was just watching it printing + temperature graph, and after ~20-30 minutes it starts jumping from 199.3-5 to 200.6-9... And that causes, after a few minutes, thermal runaway. The fan was on for 15 minutes or more. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any help?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19100" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2019-11-09T11:59:57.857" LastActivityDate="2019-11-10T11:27:56.527" Title="Thermal runaway on extruder hotend" Tags="|prusa-i3|diy-3d-printer|troubleshooting|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11325" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11323" CreationDate="2019-11-09T12:17:13.060" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;If a temperature of (rounded) 201 °C is triggering TRP, then one of three things is the culprit:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The TRP Hysteresis is awfully trigger happy. See &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/8466/what-is-thermal-runaway-protection&quot;&gt;What is Thermal Runaway Protection?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your Heater cartridge is not properly mounted and has a bad connection to the heater block and upon heating and &lt;em&gt;expecting&lt;/em&gt; a much higher temperature but not measuring the associated increase it triggers TRP as it thinks &quot;DANG! My thermosensor or heater cartridge must have fallen out of the heater block!&quot;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your Thermosensor has occasionally erroneous readings that are interpreted as temperatures way over or under 200 °C and trigger TRP.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To rule out the problems, do the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check the mounting of the thermosensor and heater cartridge. Tighten if needed. The thermosensor should have no cracks (glass) or deformation (metal cylinder)!.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check resistance and wiring of the heater cartridge (it should have some depending on the type) and thermosensor (If you use a thermocouple sensor, you might need to flip wiring).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use a terminal with a graphic interface and look at the temperature output line as you heat up and print. If it has spikes or sudden valleys, you get occasionally erroneous readings and should go back to recheck your wiring or replace the thermosensor.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Only after making sure the physical side is ok, look at the TRP code and Thermal Settings in &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/blob/1.1.x/Marlin/Configuration_adv.h&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;configuration_adv.h&lt;/a&gt;. Only alter these if you know what you are doing, as you do so &lt;strong&gt;at your own risk&lt;/strong&gt; - the settings in the distribution are well proven to be safe, while alterations might turn TRP effectively off and turn your machine into a fire hazard. Which factors to increase carefully is detailed in &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/8467/8884&quot;&gt;this answer&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2019-11-10T11:27:56.527" LastActivityDate="2019-11-10T11:27:56.527" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11326" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14205" CreationDate="2019-11-09T16:46:13.840" Score="1" ViewCount="136" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've seen articles about the Hermes (now rebranded to Hemera) hotend coming soon from E3D, and was wondering if anyone knows if it's possible to replace the stock Aerostruder on Lulzbot Mini 2 with it. The Aero has been giving me some issues and the printer is currently unusable... I've been printing for a few years but am still pretty new to mods so I don't really know what I'm doing there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19103" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2022-01-25T08:11:46.927" LastActivityDate="2022-01-25T08:11:46.927" Title="Can I replace hotend on Lulzbot Mini 2 with upcoming E3D Hermes?" Tags="|hotend|lulzbot|e3d-hemera|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11327" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10533" CreationDate="2019-11-10T00:59:02.293" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a partial answer that I might make into a full answer if I follow it up later. (I'm posting in case someone else has the same question, in which case this might be helpful despite being incomplete.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems that the 3mf format has a &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/3MFConsortium/spec_slice/blob/master/3MF%20Slice%20Extension.md&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;slice extension&lt;/a&gt; that does pretty much what I want - it allows the model to be specified as a series of polygons representing the slices, instead of a 3D mesh. So in principle I could simply output a 3mf file containing slice data, and load it into any slicer that supports this extension.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately, this would mean learning what seems to be a rather complicated XML based file format, and I'm unsure which slicers currently support the slice extension. This seems to be quite a recent thing, and it might be a case of waiting until better support is available, in terms of Python libraries to write 3mf files as well as slicer support. (There are Python bindings for lib3mf, but their documentation currently consists of a single word, &quot;TODO&quot;.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is also a requirement in the spec that any 3mf file containing slice data must also contain a mesh representation of the object. This is annoying because the whole point of this idea is to avoid generating a mesh. I suppose I could just output a bounding box or something instead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="612" LastEditorUserId="612" LastEditDate="2019-11-10T01:04:03.017" LastActivityDate="2019-11-10T01:04:03.017" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11328" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11329" CreationDate="2019-11-10T02:18:01.753" Score="4" ViewCount="731" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an STL made out of triangular faces that intersect themselves to create very complicated patterns. It also has a very messy internal structure. I'd like to remove the parts of the faces that are invisible from outside, whilst still maintaining the precise geometry of the model.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any free software I can use is fine by me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried using the Hollow Tool in Meshmixer, but that just deleted half of everything, for some reason. I also tried doing a Uniform Mesh Resampling in Meshlab, but that just created a wrinkly, disconnected mess. Disabling infill in Cura seems to do nothing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For reference, the model looks like this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Geg3o.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Geg3o.png&quot; alt=&quot;Small retrosnub icosicosidodecahedron&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19108" LastEditorUserId="19108" LastEditDate="2019-11-10T02:44:39.947" LastActivityDate="2019-11-10T09:03:04.500" Title="Delete only invisible parts of faces" Tags="|3d-models|stl|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11329" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11328" CreationDate="2019-11-10T08:53:56.913" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;As long as the STL creates a closed, manifold, watertight body, a good slicer will just slice it. Ultimaker Cura has the option to &lt;code&gt;Union intersecting shells&lt;/code&gt;, which lets it take non-manifold parts of a shell and union them to the body in such a way that it creates a closed body. More simplification and fixing the problem in a slicer usually is not needed. If there is still some area where internal geometry is created, it can help to create an overlapping internal structure deliberately, as &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6230/easy-way-to-refine-a-3d-model-for-3d-printing-by-removing-internal-geometry&quot;&gt;Easy way to refine a 3D-model for 3D printing by removing internal geometry&lt;/a&gt; explains.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's look at some example: The STL game export of a pauldron is made from the base body (one shell) and the rivets (which are another shell inside the STL). If Union Intersecting Shells is active, the rivets are sliced and printed as part of the pauldron. If Union Intersecting Shells is not active, the rivets are found to be non-sliceable and ignored.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Infill is meant to support the upper structures in print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it is mandatory to join the item into one shell, the STL format isn't the best to go through. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the pattern is produced by a program, that is able to generate and export STEP files, these could be used by CAD software such as Fusion360 which then would interpret the generated body in such a way that it can be unioned easily, getting rid of internal geometry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the program generating the pattern is working with a vertex cloud such as blender, it should be possible to cut the long outer lines into several pieces and placing the vertices on the intersection of lines. These vertices could then be merged and any internal edges (and faces) removed. This can be a tedious process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2019-11-10T09:03:04.500" LastActivityDate="2019-11-10T09:03:04.500" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11330" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11321" CreationDate="2019-11-10T11:11:00.057" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Changing the &lt;strong&gt;flow rate&lt;/strong&gt; during a print can &lt;strong&gt;not&lt;/strong&gt; be saved. There simply is no way. It is usually meant to be a fix with filament inconsistencies or to look for the right extrusion factor for a new filament batch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Slicer&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only way to consistently increase the flow rate would be  to alter the &lt;code&gt;flow rate&lt;/code&gt; in your slicer to what you have found to work best for each machine, probably using separate profiles. This will up the rate for every subsequently sliced print. Note though that this 108 % increased extrusion is converted extrusion factors that are simply numerical and 1.08 times the normal in the g-code. These numerical values will be taken as 100 % by the printer - and since it requires extra work to slice the gode for different profiles it is not the optimal solution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you elaborated though, this is not a doable thing, so let's look further.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Source hunt &amp;amp; Workaround&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since only one printer is showing underextrusion while the others do not, it is time to check the hard- and firmware:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;underextrusion can be caused by a defective extruder assembly or a damaged or blocked nozzle.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;if a machine has consistent underextrusion, its steps/mm in the firmware might be off. This could be altered and stored in the EEPROM. Since this could be a machine unique setting, here would be your point of attack to increase the extrusion of just one machine while using the identical G-code to all other machines.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that the standard firmware of the Ender-3 in 2019 did not contain Thermal Runaway Protection (&lt;a href=&quot;/q/8466/&quot;&gt;What is Thermal Runaway Protection?&lt;/a&gt;) and should be upgraded because of this anyway. You have to flash a bootloader too, so in the process of doing the upgradeability and safety-upgrade to all the machines, you could store the altered steps/mm to each machine individually so they get consistent output.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2021-05-05T09:31:10.513" LastActivityDate="2021-05-05T09:31:10.513" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11331" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-11-10T15:10:10.933" Score="2" ViewCount="761" Body="&lt;p&gt;I understand the principle of why a heater block is used. Helping to reduce temperature variation as the filament is extruded using the heat capacity of the block.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I’m wondering why it takes the form it does? I imagine it is cuboid in shape just for convenience as it’s easy to machine?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From a surface area to volume ratio a cuboid appears to be one of the worst shapes to use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note:&#xA;I am currently doing a project which requires me to increase the tool clearance of the nozzle of a 3D printer. Hence why I am exploring alternative print head configurations and heater block design trying to minimise the profile of the print head as much as possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19038" LastActivityDate="2019-11-11T12:42:13.280" Title="Reason behind geometry of heater blocks?" Tags="|hotend|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11332" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11333" CreationDate="2019-11-10T16:01:22.870" Score="2" ViewCount="793" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd like to have the 12V PID output of an old Printrboard hotend control a relay that attaches to a 120V crockpot for something I'm making. I have everything working fine using a relay, but because the hotend heater is using PID control, the relay clicks about 3 times per second each time it needs to heat up the crockpot. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not only is this sound annoying, but it will likely reduce the life of the relay significantly. I need the crockpot temperature controlled, so the programmatic thermistor control on an old 3D printer board is a huge help, and probably cheaper than the alternatives. Especially since this board has an SD slot built in and can run any code on power-up. In &quot;bang-bang&quot; control, there would be less clicking as the crockpot heats up, and the relay wouldn't be damaged.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can't update the firmware on my board to use a different pin because it is a really old Printrbot board. All the required software is almost 5 years old and is really difficult to find. Fortunately the Printrboard does support &lt;code&gt;M301&lt;/code&gt;. So, I should be able to use this command to switch from PID control to bang-bang.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In &lt;a href=&quot;http://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M301.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Marlin's documentation&lt;/a&gt;, it describes a command called M301, along with a lot of variables for using this command. The problem is, I don't know what any of these variables mean. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;M301 [C&amp;lt;value&amp;gt;] [D&amp;lt;value&amp;gt;] [E&amp;lt;index&amp;gt;] [I&amp;lt;value&amp;gt;] [L&amp;lt;value&amp;gt;] [P&amp;lt;value&amp;gt;] &#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;&#xA;[C&amp;lt;value&amp;gt;]  &#xA;&#xA;C term (requires PID_EXTRUSION_SCALING)&#xA;&#xA;[D&amp;lt;value&amp;gt;]  &#xA;&#xA;Derivative value&#xA;&#xA;[E&amp;lt;index&amp;gt;]  &#xA;&#xA;Extruder index to set. Default 0.&#xA;&#xA;[I&amp;lt;value&amp;gt;]  &#xA;&#xA;Integral value&#xA;&#xA;[L&amp;lt;value&amp;gt;]  &#xA;&#xA;Extrusion scaling queue length (requires PID_EXTRUSION_SCALING)&#xA;&#xA;[P&amp;lt;value&amp;gt;]  &#xA;&#xA;Proportional value&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;About the only thing I know for sure is that the extruder index is 0. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What command would I enter to make this a bang-bang PID controller, so that I don't damage my relay long-term?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10369" LastEditorUserId="10369" LastEditDate="2019-11-10T16:06:55.407" LastActivityDate="2019-11-10T19:47:21.510" Title="What are the variables for PID control? How to use M301? How to use this command to switch from PID to bang-bang?" Tags="|marlin|heat-management|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11333" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11332" CreationDate="2019-11-10T16:47:50.920" Score="4" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;What command would I enter to make this a bang-bang PID controller&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's no such thing as a &quot;bang-bang PID controller&quot;. &quot;bang bang&quot; is mutually exclusive of PID. The M301 command is only good for fine-tuning the parameters of the PID controller, but it won't let you switch to bang bang. Unfortunately, you must update the firmware if you wish to use bang bang.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could try setting all values to 0, except P, which you set to an as high value as possible. This will cause the output to be fully on when the temperature is lower than the setpoint, and fully off when higher than the setpoint. However, this can still cause rapid clicking of the relay when the temperature is hovering around the setpoint. Bang bang has some hysteresis built-in (i.e., there is a margin around the setpoint in which the relay will never be toggled); there's no way to emulate this with PID.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastEditorUserId="26" LastEditDate="2019-11-10T19:47:21.510" LastActivityDate="2019-11-10T19:47:21.510" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11334" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11331" CreationDate="2019-11-10T18:33:02.817" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;A heater block has its shape designed simply by the necessity of the needs and the ease to manufacture them. Functionally, a heater block serves as:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a structural component holding the following components in a well-known position to one another:&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;heatbreak&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;nozzle&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;heater cartridge&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;thermosensor&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a transmission medium of heat energy from the heater cartridge to the thermosensor and filament path.&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;this dictates the use of high thermal conductive metals  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a thermal energy storage to equalize the heating pattern of the heater cartridge.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While this dictates the &lt;em&gt;internal&lt;/em&gt; geometry of the block, it does not say anything about the &lt;em&gt;external&lt;/em&gt; geometry. This is chosen entirely because of manufacturing, which strongly prefers square items in a vise with stop positions to allow repeatable machining.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While other heater designs are existant, for example wrapping a heater wire around the meltzone, the use of a machined structural element that houses bought components saves a lot of time in assembly Quality Control and subsequent repairs, as each component (heater, thermosensor, block) can be rejected or replaced on its own. This makes the machine all in all more serviceable. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastActivityDate="2019-11-10T18:33:02.817" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11335" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-11-10T18:40:01.640" Score="2" ViewCount="367" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been working with the &lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/wiki/MiniRambo&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;MiniRambo Controller&lt;/a&gt; to try to drive 3 stepper motors using the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.airspayce.com/mikem/arduino/AccelStepper/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;AccelStepper library&lt;/a&gt;. The stepper motors are &lt;a href=&quot;https://openbuildspartstore.com/nema-17-stepper-motor/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;NEMA 17&lt;/a&gt;s with the following specifications:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/P2GO7.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/P2GO7.png&quot; alt=&quot;NEMA 17 Stepper Motor Specifications&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am trying to avoid using Marlin Firmware because I want to first make a 2D printer (i.e. a &quot;drawbot&quot;) using my own code before upgrading my build to be a 3D printer. Thus far, I have the following for code, where the pin mappings were taken from the Marline firmware and checked against the schematic on the wiki linked above.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#include &quot;AccelStepper.h&quot;&#xA;#include &quot;Wire.h&quot;&#xA;&#xA;#define X_STEP_PIN             37&#xA;#define X_DIR_PIN              48&#xA;#define X_MIN_PIN              12&#xA;#define X_MAX_PIN              -1&#xA;#define X_ENABLE_PIN           29&#xA;#define X_MS1_PIN              40&#xA;#define X_MS2_PIN              41&#xA;&#xA;#define Y_STEP_PIN             36&#xA;#define Y_DIR_PIN              49&#xA;#define Y_MIN_PIN              11&#xA;#define Y_MAX_PIN              -1&#xA;#define Y_ENABLE_PIN           28&#xA;#define Y_MS1_PIN              69&#xA;#define Y_MS2_PIN              39&#xA;&#xA;#define Z_STEP_PIN             35&#xA;#define Z_DIR_PIN              47&#xA;#define Z_MIN_PIN              10&#xA;#define Z_MAX_PIN              23&#xA;#define Z_ENABLE_PIN           27&#xA;#define Z_MS1_PIN              68&#xA;#define Z_MS2_PIN              67&#xA;&#xA;#define E0_STEP_PIN            34&#xA;#define E0_DIR_PIN             43&#xA;#define E0_ENABLE_PIN          26&#xA;#define E0_MS1_PIN             65&#xA;#define E0_MS2_PIN             66&#xA;&#xA;#define MOTOR_CURRENT_PWM_XY_PIN 46&#xA;#define MOTOR_CURRENT_PWM_Z_PIN  45&#xA;#define MOTOR_CURRENT_PWM_E_PIN  44&#xA;#define LED_PIN             13&#xA;&#xA;#define ELECTRONICS &quot;RAMBo13a&quot;&#xA;&#xA;AccelStepper stepper(1, Y_STEP_PIN, Y_DIR_PIN); // 1 = Driver&#xA;&#xA;void setup() {  &#xA;&#xA;  analogWrite(46,166);&#xA;&#xA;  stepper.setMaxSpeed(200);&#xA;  stepper.setSpeed(50);&#xA;  stepper.setAcceleration(10);&#xA;&#xA;  stepper.setEnablePin(Y_ENABLE_PIN);&#xA;  stepper.setPinsInverted(false, false, true); //invert logic of enable pin&#xA;  stepper.enableOutputs();&#xA;}&#xA;&#xA;void loop() {&#xA;  stepper.runToNewPosition(0);&#xA;&#xA;  stepper.moveTo(500);&#xA;  while (stepper.currentPosition() != 300)&#xA;    stepper.run();&#xA;}&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Currently, my motors will move on very rare, seemingly unpredictable occasions. When they do move, they tick once and then stop moving. Since I still see some of this behavior from time-to-time I don't think I have burnt out my drivers - but who knows. The MiniRambo uses four A4982 stepper motor drivers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I calculated the value to &lt;code&gt;analogWrite&lt;/code&gt; to my PWM pin by referencing the Marlin firmware which states the following for the MiniRambo:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#define MOTOR_CURRENT_PWM_XY_PIN 46&#xA;#define MOTOR_CURRENT_PWM_Z_PIN  45&#xA;#define MOTOR_CURRENT_PWM_E_PIN  44&#xA;// Motor current PWM conversion, PWM value = MotorCurrentSetting * 255 / range&#xA;#ifndef MOTOR_CURRENT_PWM_RANGE&#xA;  #define MOTOR_CURRENT_PWM_RANGE 2000&#xA;#endif&#xA;#define DEFAULT_PWM_MOTOR_CURRENT  {1300, 1300, 1250}&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another semi-important piece of information is that I am powering the MiniRambo with a &lt;a href=&quot;https://openbuildspartstore.com/24v-meanwell-power-supply-bundle/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;24V/14.6A power supply&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any help getting my motors to spin would be greatly appreciated! Further, if you know of a way to test my motor driver to see if it burnt out, I would like to hear about it! When explaining, please keep in mind that I am totally new to the space and not very familiar with much of the electronics (more of a software person). Thank you in advance for your help :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19114" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2019-11-11T14:26:49.413" LastActivityDate="2019-11-11T14:26:49.413" Title="Driving a Stepper Motor with a Mini-Rambo Controller" Tags="|stepper-driver|stepper|motor|plotter|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="13" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11337" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10533" CreationDate="2019-11-11T08:44:35.777" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is my second self-answer. I'm posting it separately because it's a different technique. This one should work today, without any modification to the slicer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I got a helpful hint from Cura developer BagelOrb in the &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/Ultimaker/CuraEngine/issues/310&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Cura issue tracker&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Note that generating the mesh doesn't need to be as difficult as you might think.&#xA;  You don't need to connect the layers together, you only need to give your slices a height, so that Cura will slice each layer exactly where you want.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Just generate the 2D polygons and then extrude each line segment into two perfectly vertical triangles with the same height as your intended layer height - and BAM! you got what you want.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is similar to a suggestion @towe made in the comments on this question, but the cool thing is you don't need to bother rendering the and bottom surface of each slice, because the slicer will just ignore them anyway. This is because, in BagelOrb's words,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The first thing CuraEngine does is slice the 3D model into polygons and the rest of the processing only uses these polygons. The 3D model is only used to calculate the areas of each layer and all other operations are operations on polygons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Your mesh doesn't need to be manifold; only each slice needs to be a closed polygon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The slicing stage within CuraEngine is a 2 step process:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;for each triangle generate the line segments for each layer with which it intersects&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;for each layer stich all line segments together into polygons&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Your model can look like this:&#xA;  &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qtAk2.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qtAk2.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is great because the top and bottom surfaces are very tricky to do correctly. It can be done in OpenSCAD using &lt;code&gt;linear_extrude&lt;/code&gt;, but it turns out to be extremely time-consuming to &lt;code&gt;union&lt;/code&gt; all the layers together. This way my code can just throw all the triangles into an STL file and it will slice correctly without any issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other useful information in that thread is that Cura will slice the model in the middle of each layer. So that's where I should slice my own implicit surface model for maximum accuracy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did a quick proof of concept and it seems to work so far. I manually created an ASCII STL file containing the sides of a 1cm cube with no top or bottom surface. In &quot;prepare&quot; mode, Cura sees it as the hollow model that it is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/v7duH.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/v7duH.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But when slicing it ignores the missing faces and adds top and bottom layers and infill, as expected:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sV1jQ.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sV1jQ.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'll probably edit this answer again once I have the whole thing up and running.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="612" LastEditorUserId="612" LastEditDate="2019-11-12T01:08:53.890" LastActivityDate="2019-11-12T01:08:53.890" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11338" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-11-11T09:22:33.147" Score="4" ViewCount="4577" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just order myself an Ender 3 Pro which will come by the end of the week.&#xA;Before it arrives I want to be ready to flash a bootloader onto it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was wondering what other options there are to flashing except using an Arduino?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a bunch of ESP8266/ESP32 and a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.banggood.com/FT232RL-FTDI-USB-To-TTL-Serial-Converter-Adapter-Module-For-Arduino-p-917226.html?rmmds=myorder&amp;amp;cur_warehouse=CN&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;USB to TTL&lt;/a&gt;. Would it be possible to use these somehow instead of an Arduino to flash a bootloader to the Ender 3?&#xA;Or should I just go buy an Arduino?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19122" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2019-11-11T10:07:07.300" LastActivityDate="2019-11-11T18:06:14.590" Title="Flashing a bootloader on Ender 3 without Arduino" Tags="|creality-ender-3|firmware|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11339" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11338" CreationDate="2019-11-11T09:49:51.863" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;What you need to is called a ICSP or ISP: &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/In-system_programming&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;in-circuit serial programmer or in-system programmer&lt;/a&gt;, which excludes the USB to TTL device you own.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've never used an ESP8266 as ICSP but it seems there are &lt;a href=&quot;https://arduino.stackexchange.com/questions/44702/esp8266-as-isp-program-for-atmega16&quot;&gt;some resources out there&lt;/a&gt; reporting it is possible.&#xA;If you want to go the easiest way probably you want to buy an Arduino and follow the tons of tutorials out there, if you are looking to save some money then you might get around buying an ICSP like the very well known USBASP (just Google for that).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13989" LastActivityDate="2019-11-11T09:49:51.863" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11340" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11331" CreationDate="2019-11-11T11:41:13.953" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;No the heater block does not need to be cuboid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3nFMa.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3nFMa.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Maxiwatt hotend&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;(from &lt;a href=&quot;http://hot-end.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://hot-end.com/&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This heater block from Maxiwatt is mostly cylindrical. My self and another college use them on our machines and I can say from experience that they heat up faster. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the early days of 3D printing people were even making their own &quot;heat blocks&quot; &#xA;&lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/QvIzQvoDkcc?start=0&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&#xA;In the video link, the person is describing how to wrap nichrome wire around a brass wood insert to create a heat block.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason for it being square: It's easy to hold and thus cheap to make.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12857" LastEditorUserId="12857" LastEditDate="2019-11-11T12:42:13.280" LastActivityDate="2019-11-11T12:42:13.280" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11341" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11348" CreationDate="2019-11-11T07:14:42.987" Score="5" ViewCount="2486" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I just got the Ender 3 and have been trying to print out a part. However, I noticed the printer is trying to print the part, which should be centered in the bed, on the left side. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I performed the auto home, leveling procedures, prior to execution, but it still wants to print it on the left side. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I checked the values it thinks it has for X, but they are about 60 mm to high (i.e. from the control/move axis menu, I move it towards the zero position and when it touches the switch, it still thinks its around 65-70 mm in the positive direction).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have tried the good old power cycle, but each time it seems to get worse printing closer and closer to the edge. I am sure that I must have fudged something up. Anyone know how to fix the mismatched position? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for any advice!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19120" OwnerDisplayName="chewbapoclypse" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-11-12T05:54:26.093" LastActivityDate="2019-11-12T05:54:26.093" Title="Ender 3 X-axis values are not correct" Tags="|creality-ender-3|troubleshooting|x-axis|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11343" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2019-11-11T14:31:33.443" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Plotters are similar to 3D printers in that some use the XY-movement system as a Core-XY and many 3D Printers can be converted into a plotter by mounting a pen and using the Z-Axis to engage or disengage the pen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2019-11-11T14:31:33.443" LastActivityDate="2019-11-11T14:31:33.443" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11344" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2019-11-11T14:31:33.443" Score="0" Body="Plotters are akin to laser engravers but use a pen." OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2019-11-11T14:31:33.443" LastActivityDate="2019-11-11T14:31:33.443" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11345" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11322" CreationDate="2019-11-11T15:28:47.777" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;From an MSDS for AquaNet hairspray:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Water (Aqua), Dimethyl Ether, SD Alcohol 40-B (Alcohol Denat.),&#xA;  &lt;strong&gt;VA/Crotonates/Vinyl Neodecanoate Copolymer&lt;/strong&gt;, Acrylates Copolymer,&#xA;  Aminomethyl Propanol, Sodium Benzoate, Cyclohexylamine, Triethyl&#xA;  Citrate, Cyclopentasiloxane, Sodium PCA, Masking Fragrance (Parfum)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The MSDS doesn't mention polyvinylpyrrolidone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suspect that the &quot;PVA&quot; here is the VA/Crotonates/Vinyl Neodecanoate Copolymer.  A little googling indicates that this is a common ingredient of hair sprays, and works by forming a thin coating over hair to prevent it from adsorbing moisture.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I stumbled upon three types of Loreal(R) hairspray that have these ingredients.  It seems likely that there are more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Disclosure:  I use AquaNet on an aluminum bed as a PLA bonding agent, and on my Prusa PEI covered bed as a PET-G release agent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2082" LastActivityDate="2019-11-11T15:28:47.777" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11347" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11338" CreationDate="2019-11-11T18:06:14.590" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can do AVR programming using USB-TTL adapters. This relies on bit-banging, i.e. emulating the programming protocol by using the serial control lines as general purpose IO.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But this has a few caveats:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;USB-TTL adapters limit the speed of control line changes. So the programming will be very slow, taking several minutes.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You need to have the RTS, DTR and CTS lines available on the USB-TTL adapter. Many of the cheap adapters do not have these signals available on pins, though you could solder to the chip directly.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If those two are in order, go ahead and install &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.nongnu.org/avrdude/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;avrdude&lt;/a&gt;, take one of the serial port bitbang (&lt;code&gt;serbb&lt;/code&gt; driver) example files and configure it with information on which serial adapter pins you've connected to the AVR chip. Then give &lt;code&gt;-i 1000&lt;/code&gt; or similar delay value to &lt;code&gt;avrdude&lt;/code&gt; to slow it down enough to work over the USB interface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is &lt;a href=&quot;http://nerdralph.blogspot.com/2014/05/pl-2303hx-bit-bang-avr-programmer.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;a blog post about doing it with PL2303 based adapter&lt;/a&gt;, but the technique should work on other USB-TTL adapters also.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16776" LastActivityDate="2019-11-11T18:06:14.590" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11348" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11341" CreationDate="2019-11-11T23:02:54.167" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;So the issues with the digital display values, was caused by the X-axis binding up and not advancing. I had to move the axis via the control panel in the positive direction and noticed once it got about half-way out, it wouldn't advance for like two or more steps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the control panel, it said I was 235 mm out from the home position, but in reality I was more around the midway point. When I would move it back to the home position the read-out still displayed that I was offset from the home position in the positive direction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To fix it I tore it down and reconstructed it (made sure everything was plumb and level), I also flipped the belt in the opposite direction (teeth down, so that the stepper pulley grips the belt teeth).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19120" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-11-12T05:54:04.340" LastActivityDate="2019-11-12T05:54:04.340" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11349" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11350" CreationDate="2019-11-11T23:07:36.620" Score="4" ViewCount="1380" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is the correct orientation for the X-axis belt? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I first thought to place the smooth side down to match the tensioner bearing, but then changed it to match the motor pulley.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19120" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-11-12T05:52:40.723" LastActivityDate="2019-11-12T05:59:06.073" Title="Ender 3 X-axis belt orientation" Tags="|creality-ender-3|x-axis|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11350" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11349" CreationDate="2019-11-12T01:02:52.783" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sadly, the Ender-3 assembly instructions were not clear on step 7, what the right direction is (teeth on inner side of the loop):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iVLM3.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iVLM3.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Belt has teeth that need to engage the teeth of the hobbed gear on the motor, just like in the preassembled Y-axis. The teeth have to go aim to the &quot;inside&quot; of the loop. This way, the belt will not slip on the motor side and the movements will be repeatable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-11-12T05:59:06.073" LastActivityDate="2019-11-12T05:59:06.073" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11351" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11353" CreationDate="2019-11-12T11:31:53.373" Score="4" ViewCount="6737" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know that &lt;code&gt;M73 P19&lt;/code&gt; means &quot;Set completion progress to 19%&quot;, and I suspect that &lt;code&gt;M73 R42&lt;/code&gt; means &quot;Set remaining time to 42 minutes&quot;, but what is &lt;code&gt;M73 Q17 S43&lt;/code&gt;? I can't find description of such syntax.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The command is seen in &lt;code&gt;.gcode&lt;/code&gt; files produced by PrusaSlicer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14259" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-12-17T06:19:32.273" LastActivityDate="2019-12-17T06:19:32.273" Title="What is M73 Q17 S43 G-code command?" Tags="|marlin|g-code|slic3r|prusa-research|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11352" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11351" CreationDate="2019-11-12T12:28:17.540" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The tooltip for &quot;Supports remaining times&quot; under &lt;code&gt;Printer Settings -&amp;gt; General -&amp;gt; Firmware&lt;/code&gt;in PrusaSlicer quotes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Emit M73 P[percent printed] R[remaining time in minutes] at 1 minute intervals&#xA;into the G-code to let the firmware show accurate remaining time.&#xA;As of now only the Prusa i3 MK3 firmware recognizes M73.&#xA;Also the i3 MK3 firmware supports M73 Qxx Sxx for the silent mode.&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Therefore:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;P = Percentage printed, normal mode&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;R = Remaining time, normal mode&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Q = Percentage printed, silent mode&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;S = Remaining time, silent mode&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13171" LastActivityDate="2019-11-12T12:28:17.540" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11353" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11351" CreationDate="2019-11-12T12:33:27.870" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#M73:_Set.2FGet_build_percentage&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;code&gt;M73&lt;/code&gt; Set/Get build percentage G-code&lt;/a&gt; is only defined for a selected few printer firmwares.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you suspected, next to &lt;code&gt;M73 P19&lt;/code&gt; (tell the firmware at what completage percentage the print is) the &lt;code&gt;M73 R42&lt;/code&gt; tells the firmware the left time to completion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you look at the description of the &lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#M73:_Set.2FGet_build_percentage&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;code&gt;M73&lt;/code&gt; G-code&lt;/a&gt;, the following parameters may be used:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;code&gt;P&lt;/code&gt;: Percent in normal mode&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;code&gt;R&lt;/code&gt;: Time remaining in normal mode&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;code&gt;Q&lt;/code&gt;: Percent in silent mode&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;code&gt;S&lt;/code&gt;: Time remaining in silent mode&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, running the &lt;code&gt;Q&lt;/code&gt; and &lt;code&gt;S&lt;/code&gt; parameters, is similar to the &lt;code&gt;P&lt;/code&gt; and &lt;code&gt;R&lt;/code&gt; parameters with the exception for referring to the printer percentage/time when in stealth (quiet) mode.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These modes, normal and stealth, &lt;a href=&quot;https://help.prusa3d.com/article/8LLgVlD01q-loud-printer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;refer to power modes of Prusa printers&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Normal vs. Stealth mode&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  MK3 printers offer two print modes. Normal mode is required for the detection of lost steps (shifted layers), while still being quieter than the silent mode on MK2/S. There is also the Stealth mode, which utilizes Trinamic StealthChop technology, making the printer almost inaudible with the print cooling fan being the noisiest part of the printer. However, Stealth mode does not provide lost step detection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Stealth mode times can be a bit higher than normal mode estimation times. Estimation is done by the slicer. As Prusa maintains this feature, their times are accurate for their printers, but that does not have to be the case for custom printers. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To get the current progress, the &lt;code&gt;M73&lt;/code&gt; command is called without parameters:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Use &quot;M73&quot; by itself to get a report of the current print progress.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2019-11-12T13:11:05.757" LastActivityDate="2019-11-12T13:11:05.757" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11356" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-11-13T01:27:05.270" Score="2" ViewCount="121" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there a classification of method of control most (FDM) 3D printers fall under?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From a 1986robotics textbook&lt;sup&gt;ref&lt;/sup&gt; I was reading they defined three classes of control:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) Pick and place&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) Point to point&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3) Continuous path&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, both point to point and continuous path control are stated as requiring servo motors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know that the majority of 3D printers are actuated with stepper motors as opposed to servo. Does the continuous path classification still apply? Or is there another classification?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;ref - &lt;em&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.springer.com/gp/book/9789401167703&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Todd, D.J.(Ed.):Fundamentals of Robot Technology: An Introduction to Industrial Robots, Teleoperators and Robot Vehicles - Kogan Page 1986&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19038" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2019-11-13T17:00:37.847" LastActivityDate="2019-11-13T21:27:22.133" Title="Classifying method of control of 3D printers?" Tags="|stepper|motor|linear-motion|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11357" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11356" CreationDate="2019-11-13T10:08:56.897" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The question is if robots classification terminology the textbook sketches applies to 3D printing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Servos (closed loop) are used in robots to guarantee position (you don't want to accumulate an error after repetitive movement), most 3D printers use open loop steppers that are instructed on a point to point basis through G-code instructions, implying that the use of servos is not a &quot;requirement&quot; for point to point control.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It &lt;strong&gt;is&lt;/strong&gt; a requirement if you want to be absolutely sure that the position is reached. In 3D printing where the loads are generally low, this requirement is frequently dropped. But, there are printers that use servo control. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that many CNC machines (operating at much higher loads than a 3D printer) even don't use servo's but (open loop) steppers, these are generally larger and more powerful (more torque).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2019-11-13T10:08:56.897" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11358" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11356" CreationDate="2019-11-13T10:17:04.840" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;3D Printers fall under additive manufacturing and then can be classified by the material first. Usually, the material dictates entirely what the design looks like and it would be foolish to not differentiate what you look at by this first. For some materials, there are a couple of subtypes that tell us about which method for fusing the material is used, but usually, there is just one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;light curing resin&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;projected light&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Laser&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Paste, gel or air curing resin&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;direct deposit from syringe&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Foil&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Laser1&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Powder&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Laser&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Filament (FFF/FDM)&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;direct deposit&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of all these printers, only the FDM/FFF Group has a large diversity in how they are designed on the outer side, with the main 4 designs (and one example) being&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cantilever (TronXY X1)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Core-XY (Hypercube)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Portal (Prusa)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Delta (Kossel)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now comes the kicker: Most FDM/FFF Printers do use only stepper motors and use G-Code that is derived from CNC - just like the whole idea of FDM was invented as &lt;em&gt;reverse CNC&lt;/em&gt;. Only very few use an encoder at all. Marlin, the main firmware used in 3D printers, executes usually &lt;em&gt;point-to-point&lt;/em&gt; instructions (&lt;a href=&quot;http://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/G000-G001.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;code&gt;G0 X10 Y10 Z0 E5&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/a&gt;), but some implementations are able to perform arcs (&lt;a href=&quot;http://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/G002-G003.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;code&gt;G2 E7.85 R5 X-5 Y5&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/a&gt;). Usually, printers run in &lt;em&gt;relative coordinates&lt;/em&gt; (to the last position of the nozzle/tool), but for some operations &lt;em&gt;absolute coordinates&lt;/em&gt; (mainly start or end codes) are used. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Among the printers that use servos instead of steppers are, to my knowledge, mostly laser-based systems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2019-11-13T21:27:22.133" LastActivityDate="2019-11-13T21:27:22.133" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11359" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11356" CreationDate="2019-11-13T16:42:53.670" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Upon further research these defined classes of control (from a robotics perspective) only apply to servo motors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the highest level the methods of control being categorised as:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Servo&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Non-Servo&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The three categories I listed in my question are all subsets of the Servo category and rely upon feedback from the servo.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19038" LastActivityDate="2019-11-13T16:42:53.670" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11360" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11409" CreationDate="2019-11-13T19:43:55.203" Score="4" ViewCount="5588" Body="&lt;p&gt;The extruder on my Prusa i3 MK3S keeps clogging while printing. Loading is fine, and each time it clogs, unloading and loading the filament seems to work.&#xA;The filament extruded just after resolving a clog looks like it has small bubbled on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem only seems to happen when printing certain models. Printing the Batman symbol at 0.15&amp;nbsp;mm works every time. But the model I'm trying to print always fails at most a few minutes in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've tried cleaning the nozzle. Cold pull twice, and taken it out and heated it with my airgun and trying to work on it with the acupuncture needle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The print that fails is &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3211975&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this &quot;Small Pill Container&quot;&lt;/a&gt; with 0.1&amp;nbsp;mm layer height and 100&amp;nbsp;% infill, but printing a simple cylinder shape (25&amp;nbsp;mm outer diameter, 2.5&amp;nbsp;mm walls) creates the same problem. Trying to print them both at the same slicer settings with 0.15 mm layer height still fails.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The model was sliced using the newest version of PrusaSlicer 2.1.0 and printed with Prusament PLA at the factory recommended 215±10&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C, and tried 220&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas what could be happening? Anybody experienced a similar issue?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Printing the bundled TreeFrog 50&amp;nbsp;&amp;mu;m sliced by Prusa for the Prusa I3 MK3S cased the same problem. Jam happened about 30 min in. I guess this rules out slicer problems as the root cause.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;After a lot of research, it seems a lot of people have problems with the MK3 clogging, especially with PLA, and especially with prints with a lot of retractions. The issue seems to be the design of the heat-break, which has a throat between 2.2&amp;nbsp;mm and 2&amp;nbsp;mm, where the PLA can get stuck. I've ordered a new heatbreak. Please read &lt;a href=&quot;/a/11409&quot;&gt;this answer of my findings&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19133" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-12-17T06:18:52.110" LastActivityDate="2020-05-11T10:59:06.013" Title="Prusa i3 MK3S keeps clogging during print. Ugly streaks sometimes, and complete clog when printing with lower layer lines" Tags="|prusa-i3|extrusion|nozzle|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11361" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11363" CreationDate="2019-11-13T21:19:10.280" Score="3" ViewCount="1000" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the E3D Kraken cooler block, there is a big, 10&amp;nbsp;mm grub screw, along the side of the cooler block.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I watched the entire Kraken assembly video:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/wEw4UDUUbIE?start=0&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There was no mention of this very thick grub screw. The &lt;a href=&quot;https://wiki.e3d-online.com/Kraken_Assembly&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;E3D Kraken assembly wiki page&lt;/a&gt; may refer to this part as the &quot;stainless plug&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does the depth of the screw inside the Kraken heatbreak affect the effectiveness of the water cooling?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why was it included in the design at all?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm asking because water frequently leaks out of this pore for me, ever since I had to repair some damaged tubing. Additionally I often have to use an extra fan when printing at high temperatures. I'm wondering, before I epoxy this grub screw into place, whether the amount it is tightened into the Kraken has some advantages or disadvantages.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The video shows the part already assembled on the Kraken. This is what the part looks like - it is much larger than the screws used to secure heat throats. &lt;img src=&quot;https://static.e3d-online.com/media/catalog/product/cache/b3b166914d87ce343d4dc5ec5117b502/p/l/plugs_10.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10369" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-11-13T21:47:50.290" LastActivityDate="2019-11-15T10:46:33.940" Title="What does the stainless steel plug do in the E3D Kraken cooler block?" Tags="|e3d-kraken|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11362" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11361" CreationDate="2019-11-13T21:43:10.717" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The connecting channel between the two brass barbed hose fittings needs to be drilled out.  To open that channel, a hole is drilled into the side to connect the two top holes (which have the brass fittings screwed into them).  The hole doesn't need to penetrate both sides, but it must get through one side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The grub screw seals the hole.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Instead of using epoxy to seal in the screw, you could use the PTFE (Teflon) white plumbing tape.  It is specifically designed to seal threads.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I remember, you can thread it in as tightly as you like.  It won't interfere with the water channel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a Kraken, and I looked at how to make another one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2082" LastEditorUserId="2082" LastEditDate="2019-11-14T21:09:03.657" LastActivityDate="2019-11-14T21:09:03.657" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11363" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11361" CreationDate="2019-11-13T21:46:28.917" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;This stainless steel plug is necessary because of the fabrication of the cooler block. As this is a water cooled block, cold fluid flows in the inlet brass barb, and hot fluid out of the exit brass barb. The manufactured channel between the two is done through the hole that is later plugged by the stainless steel plug. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the &lt;a href=&quot;https://e3d-online.com/kraken-plugs&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;manufacturers website of the stainless steel plugs&lt;/a&gt; you can read that a tapered hole and sealant are required to make a tight seal:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;They have a wide range of applications in sealing and require a tapered hole.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Replacing these plugs on the Kraken should only be completed if you are confident in your ability to achieve an adequate seal. We use Threadlock and a measured torque setting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Be sure the hole has a taper, if you over-tightened if once it may have worn. Epoxy based glue would be able to be used at the cooler block, temperatures are not expected to be too high, but from the comments below it becomes clear that there are specific sealing products available for sealing the plug other than epoxy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The depth of the grub screw is not likely to affect the cooling properties (it isn't expected to block one of the brass barbs).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-11-15T10:46:33.940" LastActivityDate="2019-11-15T10:46:33.940" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11365" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11360" CreationDate="2019-11-13T22:57:48.347" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The problem with low layer heights is that the filament flow is low, this means that the filament is at prolonged times at temperature, filament cooking can cause clogging. Try increasing the layer height to 0.2&amp;nbsp;mm to observe if the same clogging problems still occur, furthermore, try lowering the extrusion temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, heat creep is a known issue (insufficient cooling of the cold end) to cause clogging. Note that this is unlikely on the Prusa MK3S, but you could check whether the fan rotates freely and that there are no additional obstructions in the flow path. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It could be that a combination of too much hotend temperature and a low filament flow is causing this issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-11-14T09:18:04.303" LastActivityDate="2019-11-14T09:18:04.303" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11366" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-11-13T22:58:28.357" Score="3" ViewCount="1079" Body="&lt;p&gt;We are using the branch bugfix 2.0 and the first screen of Marlin is showing some horizontal lines, appearing to be broken.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/L0YW6.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/L0YW6.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After 3 seconds, the boot screen appears and everything works normally.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jcYKG.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jcYKG.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We have tried to disable the custom bootscreen:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;//#define SHOW_CUSTOM_BOOTSCREEN&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We have tried to disable the Marlin bootscreen:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;//#define SHOW_BOOTSCREEN&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We have checked the power supply.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We have wrapped the &quot;flat cable&quot; in aluminum foil and ground everything correctly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We have deleted the &quot;firmware.bin&quot; and it did not solve the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first time the firmware is loading the &quot;firmware.bin&quot;, those horizontal lines do not appear, but when it is loading the &quot;FIRMWARE.CUR&quot; it does appear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;What exactly is happening? How do I fix those horizontal lines on boot?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14383" LastEditorUserId="14383" LastEditDate="2019-11-15T12:49:22.550" LastActivityDate="2019-11-15T12:49:22.550" Title="The first screen of Marlin 2.0 is showing some horizontal lines, appearing to be broken" Tags="|firmware|lcd-screen|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11367" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11366" CreationDate="2019-11-14T03:01:13.020" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Something is causing your screen to get signals to display that before your board properly takes it over after 3 seconds.  It is an oddly repetitive pattern.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it is software, you should not see it on a stable stock marlin release with minimal customizations to enable the LCD.  Usually nothing else shares pins with the LCD, but please do double check pin assignments.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Beyond software lies a realm of hardware issues:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Issue could be due to bad wiring or wires running in areas where they are picking up noise as the system boots up; LCD ribbons are not particularly noise resistant.  I say wiring but it could be anywhere along the circuit, including circuit boards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is also some (smaller) chance that your power supply is providing the noise at the initial boot up in which case you may be able to resolve it by adding capacitors to stabilize the DC voltage.  Not sure what check you already did of the power supply, but a DC (RMS) reading may not show anything strange on a regular multimeter even if there is a strange AC signal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19138" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-11-14T05:52:01.853" LastActivityDate="2019-11-14T05:52:01.853" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11368" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10859" CreationDate="2019-11-14T12:46:34.873" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Z-Hops &lt;em&gt;only occur when the slicer is retracting Filament automatically&lt;/em&gt; (i.e. when Cura detects a move between parts/around outer walls where stringing would be a problem).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In your end G-Code, you &lt;em&gt;do retract&lt;/em&gt; your filament, but manually. This means that Cura does not add the Z-Hop code.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Solution:&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;Add this before your &lt;code&gt;G28 X0 Y0&lt;/code&gt; command:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;G91   ;Change Positioning to relative&#xA;G1 Z5 ;Move head up by 5mm (or bed down, depending on your machine)&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;code&gt;G91&lt;/code&gt; command is needed because otherwise you wold need to provide an absolute Z position which is guaranteed to be above your last layer (so you would either need to set the height to the top of your build volume (takes ages to move the head there) or to adjust the height for each printed part (annoying)).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Documentation for the &lt;code&gt;G91&lt;/code&gt; command: &lt;a href=&quot;http://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/G091.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/G091.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Manual for Z-Hop and other travel moves in Cura: &lt;a href=&quot;https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/52507-travel&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/52507-travel&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that this is only a good idea if &lt;code&gt;MAX_SOFTWARE_ENDSTOPS&lt;/code&gt; are enabled in your Marlin &lt;code&gt;configuration.h&lt;/code&gt;. Otherwise, the head could move ABOVE the maximum Z height (&lt;code&gt;zMax&lt;/code&gt;) if the print height &lt;code&gt;h &amp;gt;= zMax -5mm&lt;/code&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks to @0scar for mentioning this!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9057" LastEditorUserId="9057" LastEditDate="2019-11-19T16:23:34.847" LastActivityDate="2019-11-19T16:23:34.847" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11369" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11375" CreationDate="2019-11-14T17:57:47.840" Score="3" ViewCount="533" Body="&lt;p&gt;For a model that has raised text on it, how do go about painting the very top layer of text, to make it stand out from the background? Lets say I printed the whole model the same color, what type of paint would work well, and not get on the background too?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's an example of a model that has raised text: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3025280&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3025280&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18961" LastActivityDate="2019-11-19T12:55:03.927" Title="Painting Text on Model" Tags="|post-processing|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11370" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11369" CreationDate="2019-11-14T19:14:41.280" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The technique you look for is &lt;em&gt;drybrushing&lt;/em&gt; and not dependant on a specific type of color, as long as it can be applied with a brush.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An alternative technique might be carefully applying glue and leaf metal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastActivityDate="2019-11-14T19:14:41.280" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11371" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-11-15T07:48:36.400" Score="2" ViewCount="343" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to find a comparable Nema17 (42BYGHW609) for my new Titan extruder state side with non-month-long shipping from China.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would this work (and about the same size and weight as the recommended 42BYGHW609)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;45&amp;nbsp;N•cm (63.7 oz•in) holding torque&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;NEMA 17 bipolar 1.65&quot;x1.65&quot;x1.57&quot; 4-wire&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1.8° step angle (200 steps/rev)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rated current 2&amp;nbsp;A &amp;amp; resistance 1.1&amp;nbsp;&amp;Omega;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Candidates:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.oyostepper.com/goods-45-Nema-Size-17-Stepper-Motor-Bipolar-45Ncm-64ozin-2A-42x40mm-4-Wires-w-1m-Cable-Connector.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Nema Size 17 Stepper Motor Bipolar 45Ncm (64oz.in) 2A 42x40mm 4 Wires w/ 1m Cable &amp;amp; Connector for DIY 3D Printer CNC Rob&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.oyostepper.com/goods-493-Nema-17-Stepper-Motor-15A-12V-6374ozin-4-Lead-39mm-Body-W-1m-Cable-and-Connector-for-DIY-CNC-3D-PrinterExtruder-.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Nema 17 Stepper Motor 1.5A 12V 63.74oz.in 4-Lead 39mm Body W/ 1m Cable and Connector for DIY CNC/ 3D Printer/Extruder&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="35438" OwnerDisplayName="gujimeili3" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-11-18T16:14:49.763" LastActivityDate="2019-11-18T16:14:49.763" Title="Which NEMA 17 Stepper Motor for Titan?" Tags="|stepper|motor|e3d-titan|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ClosedDate="2019-11-17T10:01:48.333" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11372" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-11-15T13:30:05.800" Score="4" ViewCount="415" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can't find an official datasheet for either board. Does anyone know where to find this information? Something that has max voltages, pinouts, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, what's the difference between the V2.1 and the V2.2?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13829" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2021-01-25T13:02:10.657" LastActivityDate="2021-01-25T13:02:10.657" Title="Difference between Creality V2.1/V2.2 boards? Where to find datasheets?" Tags="|electronics|creality|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11374" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11371" CreationDate="2019-11-15T17:18:54.060" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The safest thing to do is to wait a month (it probably won't take that long anyway), and order the correct stepper motor from China, or pay more and locally source the 42BYGHW609.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The 42BYGHW609 is a commonly used stepper and it is best to keep &lt;em&gt;all&lt;/em&gt; of the steppers matched - just for ease of calibration, matched performance/behaviour, and future maintainability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Otherwise you need to match (at least) the torque, the inductance, the rated current and resistance of the coils, if not the physical size and the stepping angle. Which is not an impossible task, but a bit of a pain, TBH.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The time that you spend verifying the various steppers and then re-checking and worrying would be better spent ordering the correct one in the first place and waiting for it to arrive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;BTW, take a look at the &lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/wiki/NEMA_17_Stepper_motor&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;RepRapWiki - Nema 17&lt;/a&gt; page which lists suitable stepper motors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As an aside, if this is your first purchase from China and are worried about reliability of service, then don't. I order everything from China, and haven't had a problem. In addition, if you order via eBay/PayPal you are financially protected if your order doesn't arrive (which does sometimes happen), or, alternatively, order from AliExpress, where I have never had something not arrive (if that makes sense)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have just realised that you need an extruder replacement (and not a X/Y/Z stepper)... in which case, as &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11371/which-nema-17-stepper-motor-for-titan#comment20737_11371&quot;&gt;towe states&lt;/a&gt;, either of your candidates is probably fine, although maybe over-torqued (slightly).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I, personally, would still replace the stepper with the same model that the 3D printer originally came with, but that is just my personal preference - unless you had found the 42BYGHW609 to be not strong enough, and you actually &lt;em&gt;want to up the torque&lt;/em&gt;..?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4762" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2019-11-16T08:52:36.813" LastActivityDate="2019-11-16T08:52:36.813" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11375" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11369" CreationDate="2019-11-15T17:57:21.677" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You don't provide any dimensions or sizes, but...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming that the text is sufficiently elevated from the rest of the model, you could use a firm solid (as opposed to soft and spongey) roller, of an appropriate width.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This should enable you to paint just the text without getting paint on the rest of the model.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If the text is small and in a &quot;valley&quot; or groove, then a narrow roller would be required, in order to avoid the surface either side of the text.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If the text is not on a flat, or smooth surface, then a small diameter roller might be required.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If you can't find a tiny paint roller, you could &lt;em&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jury_rigging&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;jerry-rig&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/em&gt; one using a paper clip and a roller wheel from an old cassette tape&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4762" LastActivityDate="2019-11-15T17:57:21.677" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11376" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11377" CreationDate="2019-11-15T18:34:29.183" Score="5" ViewCount="1522" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking for a Printrboard  board image with the pin numbers labeled. Specifically for Rev. F. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Specifically, I'd like to know what each pin on the &lt;code&gt;EXP1&lt;/code&gt; and &lt;code&gt;EXP2&lt;/code&gt; correspond to numberwise within Marlin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;code&gt;pins.h&lt;/code&gt; file for the Printrboard Rev. F doesn't include any other files and doesn't indicate what pin number corresponds to which part on the board...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is this &lt;a href=&quot;http://slamdanz.com/at90usb1286_Marlin_PinMapping.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;google sheets file&lt;/a&gt; which provides some of the information. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GFSaN.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GFSaN.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This image has the categories of each pin labeled. But I'm looking for where the pin numbers on the board correspond to the numbers in Marlin, similar to this image for the MKS Gen L:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GNz2q.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GNz2q.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10369" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-11-16T07:03:45.050" LastActivityDate="2019-11-16T07:03:45.050" Title="How to find Printrboard pin numbers in Marlin" Tags="|marlin|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11377" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11376" CreationDate="2019-11-16T00:12:51.703" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;As FarO suggested, from github:&lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/Printrbot&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Printrbot&lt;/a&gt;/&lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/Printrbot/printrboard&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;printrboard&lt;/a&gt;/&lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/Printrbot/printrboard/releases/tag/revF2&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;revF2&lt;/a&gt; (via &lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/wiki/Printrboard&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;RepRapWiki - Printrboard&lt;/a&gt; - &lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/wiki/Printrboard#Revision_History&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Revision History&lt;/a&gt;), the EagleCAD board layout and schematics are contained in the &lt;code&gt;printrboard-revF2.zip&lt;/code&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;code&gt;Printrboard.sch&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;code&gt;Printrboard.brd&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the EagleCAD schematic: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XiRmB.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Printrboard-revF2 schematic&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XiRmB.png&quot; alt=&quot;Printrboard-revF2 schematic&quot; title=&quot;Printrboard-revF2 schematic&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EagleCAD board layout&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7Dg88.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Printrboard-revF2 board layout&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7Dg88.png&quot; alt=&quot;Printrboard-revF2 board layout&quot; title=&quot;Printrboard-revF2 board layout&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not quite the &lt;em&gt;annotated&lt;/em&gt; diagram that you were after, unfortunately, but it might help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a couple of configuration files on &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/KevinOConnor&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;KevinOConnor&lt;/a&gt;/&lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/KevinOConnor/klipper&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;klipper&lt;/a&gt;, but unfortunately only for revisions &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/KevinOConnor/klipper/blob/master/config/generic-printrboard.cfg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;B to D&lt;/a&gt; (at90usb1286) and &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/KevinOConnor/klipper/blob/master/config/generic-printrboard-g2.cfg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;G&lt;/a&gt; (SAM3x8c)... E and F are not available.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4762" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2019-11-16T01:05:54.963" LastActivityDate="2019-11-16T01:05:54.963" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11380" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5486" CreationDate="2019-11-17T16:11:35.437" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The bed stopped working yesterday. I used the multimeter on the bed plug. The bed heater reads 1.7-1.8&amp;nbsp;Ohm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There was no 12&amp;nbsp;V supplied from the mainboard and I read its terminals. There were 12&amp;nbsp;V there. I tightened the screws and the plug received 12&amp;nbsp;V.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bed heated for one print. Today I repeated the troubleshooting and found that the bed plug still had 12&amp;nbsp;V. When I pulled it, the Red terminal was burnt and melted into the plug. After cleaning it by inserting and removing it several times, the bed started working again. The Red and Black wires are hot to touch though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the troubleshooting procedure one should follow. What remains to be confirmed is whether the resistance of the bed heater is correct; 1.8&amp;nbsp;Ohm at 12&amp;nbsp;V is about 80&amp;nbsp;W. Sounds about right, so the wires should not overheat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suspected a possibility of the shorting to the aluminum bed, but then the bed would be heated only in some areas, but mine is heated evenly across the entire surface area.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: For now I ended up cutting the Red wire's terminal from the plug and soldering the wire directly to the bed. I might order the new bed harness from Anet, or not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19161" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-11-17T22:19:49.753" LastActivityDate="2019-11-17T22:19:49.753" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11381" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11907" CreationDate="2019-11-18T02:13:25.380" Score="5" ViewCount="1892" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been printing with my Ender 3 for a while now and it's been great. I've had very few problems - depending on my settings, these are my typical first layers:&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GGhr1.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GGhr1.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/26XCJ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/26XCJ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However with no settings or temperature changes and attempting to print the same files, I am now getting this issue with every print - The lines lay down and adhere fine, but if I watch carefully it looks as if the nozzle is causing the previous line to lift and warp. I have checked belt tensions, calibrated all axes.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IfIUS.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IfIUS.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The prints come out fine in terms of dimensions - all within 0.1&amp;nbsp;mm overall size on large prints - but the quality is now terrible. I'm using the same roll. Prints were back-to-back and humidity is at 20&amp;nbsp;% in the room I store and print in. I've checked the nozzle, checked the belts, tightened everything, rest the printer settings and put them back, regenerated the G-code with multiple slicers... I'm at a loss now. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas, thoughts, comments, etc would be greatly appreciated. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19164" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-01-30T07:55:04.253" LastActivityDate="2021-05-04T19:07:31.987" Title="Great prints then suddenly terrible quality" Tags="|print-quality|creality-ender-3|troubleshooting|warping|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11383" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-11-18T09:10:59.487" Score="3" ViewCount="951" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to connect a 128x64 OLED display with the SH1106 driver for the BIGTREETECH SKR mini E3 printer controller board which uses the 32 bit STM32f103RC MCU. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that it works fine with my RAMPS 1.4 board but when I compile it on PlatformIO for the 32 bit controller, it doesn't work. Probing the pins on the board, the data and clock pins are floating. Any help would be greatly appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19170" LastEditorUserId="4922" LastEditDate="2021-04-21T13:22:01.390" LastActivityDate="2021-04-21T13:22:01.390" Title="Connecting 128x64 OLED to BIGTREETECH SKR mini E3" Tags="|marlin|firmware|skr-mini-e3|bigtreetech|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11384" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2019-11-18T11:48:42.473" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2019-11-18T11:48:42.473" LastActivityDate="2019-11-18T11:48:42.473" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11385" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2019-11-18T11:48:42.473" Score="0" Body="For questions about the Creality Ender-5" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2019-11-18T11:48:42.473" LastActivityDate="2019-11-18T11:48:42.473" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11386" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10796" CreationDate="2019-11-18T18:58:45.290" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Maybe, the thermistor is not fully seated and does not measure temperature effectively. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Try inserting the thermistor into the hole by filling the gaps with metal wire or conductive paste.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19175" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2019-11-18T20:49:31.037" LastActivityDate="2019-11-18T20:49:31.037" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11387" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-11-18T22:53:08.683" Score="2" ViewCount="1139" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just bought a Creality CR10 Max (this is my 9th printer, 3 of my others are creality and they all have a BLTouch installed). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have only made probably 5 prints on this machine since I bought it but started having probing failures after the 3rd. So i decided to replace the BLTouch to get a consistent experience. After replacing the probe with another Genuine BLTouch when homing, the printer would perform X and Y without any problems then go to bed center to home Z. The probe would deploy and immediately retract then the printer would would move up on z a small way then deploy the probe, immediately retract then move up on z again before declaring a probe failure and stopping. Thinking I was having an issue with the new probe I replaced it with a clone BLTouch that performed the same way then again with a second clone that had identical behavior. That's 4 probes all with the same behavior. I could use a BLTouch guru to let me know what that failure type means and how I should troubleshoot from here. I just spend $1000 on a printer and it's a paperweight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for any help you can give.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19178" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-12-11T05:42:48.357" LastActivityDate="2019-12-11T05:42:48.357" Title="BLTouch Deploying then immediately retracting while homing" Tags="|troubleshooting|creality-cr-10|bltouch|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11388" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11389" CreationDate="2019-11-19T03:50:07.807" Score="10" ViewCount="8045" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's fairly common for E3D to sell silicone socks for their hot ends. There are also other companies that sell these silicone socks for their hot end cartridges.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to a brief internet search, it seems the ignition temperature of silicone is surprisingly low - around 450&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C. This surprised me because I was under the impression silicone would just burn  / evaporate if it were heated up to a much higher temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If my thermistor/&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thissmarthouse.net/dont-burn-your-house-down-3d-printing-a-cautionary-tale/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;heatrod&lt;/a&gt; slips off, my heatrod will glow into an orange temperature during thermal runway. This only happens briefly, but its color indicates it is reaching a temperature around 790&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, are silicone socks safe? Couldn't they ignite fairly easily?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XAH7r.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Incandescence chart for iron&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XAH7r.png&quot; alt=&quot;Incandescence chart for iron&quot; title=&quot;Incandescence chart for iron&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10369" LastEditorUserId="4808" LastEditDate="2020-05-31T22:08:32.560" LastActivityDate="2023-12-27T20:45:14.597" Title="Are silicone socks safe?" Tags="|safety|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11389" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11388" CreationDate="2019-11-19T04:05:27.430" Score="19" Body="&lt;p&gt;Neither your thermistor nor your heater cartridge should ever be capable of becoming loose from your hotend, let alone the fact it's capable of reaching 800&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C before your printer even notices (This is a massive issue in itself!!!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Silicone socks are safe, unless you're printing materials with extremely high melting points, which is &lt;em&gt;usually&lt;/em&gt; never.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're concerned it's going to autoignite mid-print, you have much bigger issues surrounding your hotend than a silicone sock.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6996" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-11-19T07:52:46.977" LastActivityDate="2019-11-19T07:52:46.977" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11390" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-11-19T05:39:34.177" Score="7" ViewCount="190" Body="&lt;p&gt;Flashed Marlin 2.0 on my Folgertech 2020 Prusa i3 variant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Calibrating seems to have gone smoothly until I tried to set up UBL.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Saved the mesh into EEPROM with the &lt;code&gt;M500&lt;/code&gt; command after a &lt;code&gt;G29 P1&lt;/code&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When trying to do a test print with &lt;code&gt;G26 P10&lt;/code&gt;, the temperatures for bed and hotend seem to jump (see &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yh3u6.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;this video&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Not sure if this helps but I was following &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ONpKxkil16Q&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;this tutorial&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not sure what's going on here or how I can fix this. When I power cycle everything, this issue persists.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I noticed my Z probe arm's servo was buzzing. I unplugged it and the numbers stabilized. Not sure what's going on but seems like I need to stop  the power going to the servo when it's back to the 0 degree position.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19165" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-11-19T07:01:43.460" LastActivityDate="2019-11-19T07:01:43.460" Title="Marlin 2.0 Firmware temperature jumping on LCD when trying to configure UBL" Tags="|marlin|prusa-i3|troubleshooting|calibration|bed-leveling|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11391" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11404" CreationDate="2019-11-19T07:19:34.300" Score="4" ViewCount="14100" Body="&lt;p&gt;My rig:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ender 3&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;BLTouch&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Octopi&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Klipper&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Solid bed mounts&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've updated my start G-code from Cura to include a &lt;code&gt;G29&lt;/code&gt; right after &lt;code&gt;G28&lt;/code&gt; and my Klipper config has the following override for &lt;code&gt;G29&lt;/code&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;[gcode_macro G29]&#xA;gcode:&#xA;    BED_MESH_CLEAR&#xA;    BED_MESH_CALIBRATE&#xA;    BED_MESH_PROFILE LOAD=default&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Every print now goes through &lt;code&gt;BED_MESH_CALIBRATE&lt;/code&gt; sequence and the Bed Visualizer plugin yields this result:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4fw8h.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Bed Visualizer plugin output screenshot&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4fw8h.png&quot; alt=&quot;Bed Visualizer plugin output screenshot&quot; title=&quot;Bed Visualizer plugin output screenshot&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Based on the info here, &lt;a href=&quot;https://mmone.github.io/klipper/G-Codes.html#mesh-bed-leveling&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Klipper: G-code commands - Mesh Bed Leveling&lt;/a&gt; I would expect Klipper to adjust for the differences seen in the visualization above, but the initial layers of my prints are very squished on the right and rear of bed (right and rear of image) and not squished on the left and front of the bed (left and front of image) which make it seem like &lt;code&gt;BED_MESH_CALIBRATE&lt;/code&gt; measured the differences in the bed level, but didn't actually do anything about it.  Isn't the point of &lt;code&gt;BED_MESH_CALIBRATE&lt;/code&gt; to adjust for these differences?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can see in the first pic below that the final move on the initial layer from the outside edge of the print (right front corner) to the inside has the nozzle so low that it melted a line in the first layer as it skidded across.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the second pic below you can see that the left front edge of the print didn't squish properly so it has detached from the bed.  What am I missing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/taeBS.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Melted line in the first layer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/taeBS.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Melted line in the first layer&quot; title=&quot;Melted line in the first layer&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3o9hu.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Left front edge of the print detached&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3o9hu.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Left front edge of the print detached&quot; title=&quot;Left front edge of the print detached&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19181" LastEditorUserId="19181" LastEditDate="2019-11-20T06:15:57.053" LastActivityDate="2021-06-26T12:15:43.163" Title="Klipper doesn't seem to adjust Z after BED_MESH_CALIBRATE" Tags="|creality-ender-3|bed-leveling|octoprint|bltouch|klipper|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11392" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11388" CreationDate="2019-11-19T07:20:37.453" Score="19" Body="&lt;p&gt;Silicone socks are &lt;strong&gt;safe to use&lt;/strong&gt;, provided your &lt;strong&gt;printer is safely operating&lt;/strong&gt; and you are &lt;strong&gt;using the silicone  socks in their operating temperature range&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Your current setup is NOT SAFE!&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the heater element falls out of the heater block (that should not happen in the first place, please secure it correctly) and heats up to about 800 °C this means that the printer has no active &lt;a href=&quot;/q/8466&quot;&gt;Thermal Runaway Protection (TRP)&lt;/a&gt; enabled. Basically, when the thermistor doesn't measure a temperature rise while the voltage to the heater element is being scheduled, the firmware should shut down the voltage to the heater element. When this fails, the heater element can reach dangerously high temperatures to start burning anything that can catch a flame on touch. In deliberate tests, heaters have been able to melt the aluminium of the hotend:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/qVjWg2vuWzk?start=129&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You &lt;strong&gt;should be worried at this point&lt;/strong&gt; as you see &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thissmarthouse.net/dont-burn-your-house-down-3d-printing-a-cautionary-tale/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;from the link you provided&lt;/a&gt; what happens if the heater is not shut off when the heater element is disconnected from the heater block:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eJput.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Burnt Anet A8 as a result of inactive TRP and heater cartridge falling out of the heater block&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eJput.png&quot; alt=&quot;Burnt Anet A8 as a result of inactive TRP and heater cartridge falling out of the heater block&quot; title=&quot;Burnt Anet A8 as a result of inactive TRP and heater cartridge falling out of the heater block&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please &lt;strong&gt;fix your printer ASAP&lt;/strong&gt; by uploading a proper firmware with enabled TRP protection before proceeding to print anything or at least don't let it print without supervision and proper smoke/fire detection devices.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:29:41.667" LastActivityDate="2019-11-22T08:10:54.373" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11393" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-11-19T10:11:08.900" Score="3" ViewCount="74" Body="&lt;p&gt;Today marked my first time using a 3D printer - have to admit I was originally skeptical but am now incredibly impressed and am having to hold myself back from purchasing one for myself! Was a great experience. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway, I build rockets, and decided to 3D print a bespoke nose cone (&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:345464&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Link 1&lt;/a&gt;) to fit my rocket. However the sliced layers probably won't do great for aerodynamics, so I've looked into ways to smooth the cone out. I was wondering, using an acetone vapour bath as seen in &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6xFUNFG-UKE&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Link 2&lt;/a&gt;, is it possible to smooth the surface of my print &lt;strong&gt;without loosing shape&lt;/strong&gt;? It's only small (12x4x4 cm), and I'm worried that the acetone that smooths the surface could misshape the cone (which I would rather keep perfectly symmetrical!) or cause ABS to melt and pool around the base. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will the acetone disfigure the print, or is it possible to give it a vapour bath without it pooling and melting? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Link 1: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:345464&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Thingiverse - Ogive Nose Cone&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Link 2: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6xFUNFG-UKE&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Simple way to make ultra-smooth 3D prints at home&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19183" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2019-11-19T12:04:46.983" LastActivityDate="2019-11-19T12:04:46.983" Title="Acetone Smoothing an ABS Cone - (New to 3D printing)" Tags="|abs|acetone|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11394" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11393" CreationDate="2019-11-19T10:50:14.627" Score="3" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;is it possible to smooth the surface of my print without loosing shape?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That is by definition impossible. Smoothing the surface implies that the geometry is changed. Rather, the question is: &lt;em&gt;how much&lt;/em&gt; does acetone smoothing change the shape, and is that change within the tolerances of your application?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Acetone smoothing is a fickle process, and how (much) the geometry is changed depends on a lot of factors, such as the concentration of the acetone vapor, the amount of time the print is exposed to it, the exact composition of the plastic, geometry of the print, etc... It is definitely possible to overdo it and melt your print into a puddle, but it is also possible to smooth it out without affecting the geometry significantly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would recommend experimenting with the process and seeing whether you can tune the process (time/concentration) so that you get a smooth enough part without affecting the geometry too much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastActivityDate="2019-11-19T10:50:14.627" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11395" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2019-11-19T12:53:24.740" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2019-11-19T12:53:24.740" LastActivityDate="2019-11-19T12:53:24.740" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11396" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2019-11-19T12:53:24.740" Score="0" Body="For questions about Klipper Firmware" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2019-11-19T12:53:24.740" LastActivityDate="2019-11-19T12:53:24.740" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11397" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11369" CreationDate="2019-11-19T12:55:03.927" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recommend to print stencil for the text. Basically flat thin plate with text holes in it. Just cover your model with it and only text will be painted through the hole. In this way you could do it rough, fast or like Mr Bean did.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11199" LastActivityDate="2019-11-19T12:55:03.927" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11400" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-11-19T21:48:14.293" Score="4" ViewCount="371" Body="&lt;p&gt;How can I correctly clean the lacquer from bed printer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have used some ethylic alcohol (ethanol) to help cleaning&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But what is the best way to do it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/56zTH.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16424" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-11-24T22:03:30.440" LastActivityDate="2019-11-24T22:03:30.440" Title="How to correctly clean the Lacquer from bed?" Tags="|heated-bed|creality-ender-3|bed|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11401" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11400" CreationDate="2019-11-19T22:12:26.887" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Ender 3 does not come with a lacquered surface at all.The bed should have a rough build surface that is a clone of the BuildTak build surface. It is &lt;em&gt;intended&lt;/em&gt; to be rough and satin-gloss in its native state. I do not remember if there was a thin protective plastic foil on my Ender-3 bed on delivery, but if there was, it should have been removed during assembly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A BuildTak surface can be easily cleaned with isopropyl or ethyl alcohol of grease and fingerprints. The odd discoloration at the edges seems to be a layer of grease and dust, which can be easily cleaned away by soaking it in Isopropyl alcohol and then wiped with a microfiber cloth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the bed surface is destroyed by chipping holes into it, sanding it or otherwise ruining it (like melting plastic rap into it), you will need to replace it. Replacement surfaces come about 5 bucks on Amazon. Doing this, you might find &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/7960/how-to-clean-up-my-buildpate-for-a-new-build-surface&quot;&gt;How to clean up my buildpate for a new build surface?&lt;/a&gt; helpful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastActivityDate="2019-11-19T22:12:26.887" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11402" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-11-20T01:12:37.963" Score="3" ViewCount="1856" Body="&lt;p&gt;I used to use the Marlin 1.x software that would level the bed by probing the 4 corners of my print bed (a long time ago, it's been at least 2 years since I used my printer, wasn't able to set it up after I moved).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My slicer had G-code that would kick off a level at the beginning of every print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've upgraded to Marlin 2.x and now I'm setting up UBL. It takes quite a bit of time to probe the bed with UBL, like 10 minutes. The steps tell me to save to EEPROM and my firmware is set up to restore after every G28 (Home).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How often should I do a G29 (Bed Leveling)? Should I do it every print? Every 10 prints? 100 Prints? Or when I see that the print isn't sticking to the bed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: I went from a Grid-style ABL to UBL because UBL merges the benefits of a few different leveling techniques so theoretically it should be better. I understand I could just go back to grid-style bed leveling but even when it was working, for some reason the z-offset would shift ever so slightly every few prints and I would have to change configure it in my slicer. I'd like to try UBL and see if I can leave my printer for a while without having to fidget with the Z-offset.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19165" LastEditorUserId="19165" LastEditDate="2019-11-20T06:59:35.433" LastActivityDate="2019-11-20T16:11:58.157" Title="Setting up UBL for the first time on Marlin 2.x on a Prusa i3, how often should I level the bed using G29?" Tags="|marlin|prusa-i3|heated-bed|bed-leveling|glass-bed|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11403" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11400" CreationDate="2019-11-20T06:16:10.800" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &quot;lacquer&quot; you are referring to is assumed to be the discoloured parts of the heat bed, not the original surface layer of the heat bed. The discoloured parts of the heatbed are most probably caused by residue build-up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this residue build-up is caused by depositing a print adhesive containing PolyVinylPyrrolidone (glue stick ingredient) or PolyVinylAcetate (hairspray or 3D print spray ingredient), you can simply wash is of with water using a wet hand-warm towel or a sponge. Both constituents are dissolvable in water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do this frequently on non-removable aluminium heat beds (using moist kitchen towel) or removable glass bed (rinse off in the sink).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-11-20T06:41:57.333" LastActivityDate="2019-11-20T06:41:57.333" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11404" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11391" CreationDate="2019-11-20T07:11:32.937" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have identified the problem as lead screw backlash! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bed calibration and Z-axis offset compensation appear to be working as intended, but there is enough backlash in the Ender 3 stock lead screw that the corrections in Z-axis movement commanded by Klipper result in almost no actual nozzle movement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm measuring about 0.35&amp;nbsp;mm of backlash in my lead screw.  With differences between the lowest and highest points of my bed being only 0.6&amp;nbsp;mm the best case scenario (which would only happen if I was using my entire bed) is that the actual nozzle movement would only be about 42&amp;nbsp;% of what Klipper commanded.  The fix for this is to change out the lead screw for a ball screw. The problem could also be mitigated in Klipper if Klipper implemented backlash compensation, but &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/KevinOConnor/klipper/issues/2040&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;from what I've read on GitHub&lt;/a&gt; it doesn't seem like that is a feature the developer of Klipper wants to implement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Update:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I installed &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.th3dstudio.com/product/upgraded-leadscrew-nut-for-creality-printers-anti-backlash-nut/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; anti-backlash nut and it greatly reduced the backlash, but didn't eliminate it. I've uninstalled my solid bed mounts and reinstalled springs until I upgrade to a ball-screw for the Z axis. The auto bed leveling compensation still does something, but the adjustment allowed by having springs is what is really doing most of the leveling work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19181" LastEditorUserId="19181" LastEditDate="2019-11-28T16:52:56.800" LastActivityDate="2019-11-28T16:52:56.800" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11405" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11265" CreationDate="2019-11-20T14:12:24.223" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The developers from the Klipper firmware confirmed that Klipper doesn't care about the native functions of each pin, therefore it is indeed possible to use the expansion pins for controlling (including UART) TMC stepper drivers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At this point I cannot confirm, but maybe Marlin allows the same by updating the pin assignments in the source code.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2338" LastEditorUserId="2338" LastEditDate="2019-11-20T16:25:56.010" LastActivityDate="2019-11-20T16:25:56.010" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11406" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11402" CreationDate="2019-11-20T16:11:58.157" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is more of a personal preference type question rather than something with a hard and fast rule. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should not need to relevel your bed very often unless you have some external force that regularly changes the bed level.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I regularly print objects that take 24+ hours to print, so a 10 minute process prior is not much so it might be worth it to set it up every time if your prints run very long. If you mostly print smaller or quicker to print objects, 10 minutes might matter to you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have noticed that my prints fail pretty quickly if I have a leveling issue, and it's not hard to stop the print, clean the plate and relevel at that time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What should you do?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If 10 minutes doesn't matter that much, go ahead and relevel with every print. If it matters, wait until you start to have issues. See how long it takes for your bed to become unleveled and use that as a guide. E.g. if you can print 10 times before having issues, then try setting it for every 6 or 7 prints.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12630" LastActivityDate="2019-11-20T16:11:58.157" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11407" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11408" CreationDate="2019-11-20T18:05:00.620" Score="8" ViewCount="1589" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to calculate the maximum safe acceleration for my printer using the following parameters as input:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;printhead weight&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;torque at the desired speed&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;steps/mm and steps/revolution&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;microsteps&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Elasticity of frame and belts are ignored.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Excel file to obtain the torque at the desired speed is available &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/rcarlyle/StepperSim/blob/master/Torque%20Curve%20Predictor.xlsx&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other parameters are known in advance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The formula I used for the maximum acceleration is the usual &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$a=F/m$&lt;/span&gt;, where &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$F=torque*radius$&lt;/span&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$acceleration = torque\ *\ (steps/rev\ /\ steps/mm\ *\ microsteps\ /\ pi\ /\ 2) / mass$&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using 450 g, 0.15 N/m (as predicted for my stepper at 200 mm/s with 24 V), 200 steps/rev, 80 steps/mm, 16 microsteps I obtain about 2100 mm/s&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; which seems reasonable and pretty close to standard values.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, from what I understood the Excel file provides the prediction of a full-step torque, but torque is known to &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.machinedesign.com/archive/microstepping-myths&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;decrease significantly with increasing microsteps&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How to introduce the effect of reduced (incremental) torque for microsteps to calculate a safe maximum acceleration value for a printer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;For information&lt;/em&gt;: my stepper and my printer were sold back then with about that acceleration value preset and with that torque at nominal speed (half voltage, half speed than I assumed here).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The print quality was fine, which seems counterintuitive considering the much reduced torque expected at 16X microsteps, about 1/10 of the value I used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would expect many lost microsteps with the predefined settings. Or maybe it happens: if all the microsteps are lost, the positioning error would be 16 (micro)steps / 80 steps/mm = 0.2 mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Important edit!!!&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As maybe someone noticed, the formula I used&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$F=torque*radius$&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;is wrong. The correct one is&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$F=torque/radius$&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Taking this change into account, the final formula is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$acceleration = torque\ /\ (steps/rev\ /\ steps/mm\ *\ microsteps\ /\ pi\ /\ 2) / mass$&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;which results, with the given input values, in 52 mm/s&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is much less than what is normally set in printers. I doubt that belt stretching and frame flexibility can affect the setting so much, therefore in addition to the microstep aspect, this one should be answered too, since the question is about &quot;theoretically calculate the maximum acceleration&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2338" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-11-21T11:18:06.017" LastActivityDate="2019-11-21T11:18:06.017" Title="How to theoretically calculate the maximum acceleration?" Tags="|acceleration|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11408" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11407" CreationDate="2019-11-20T21:23:20.690" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You do not appear to have a correct understanding of how microstepping affects torque.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is calculated in the article you refer to is &lt;em&gt;incremental&lt;/em&gt; torque. The word &quot;incremental&quot; is very important.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A stepper motor consists of a permanent magnet rotor and an electromagnet stator. The electromagnets generate a magnetic field, to which the stator wants to align itself. Imagine the stepper motor being at rest. As we apply a torque to it, the rotor will start to deflect from its resting state in which it is aligned with the magnetic field. As you apply more torque, the stator will deflect more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Eventually, if we keep increasing the torque, the motor will no longer be able to hold its position and snap over to the next step. The torque at which this is happens is the holding torque. Essentially, you can think of the holding torque as the torque required to cause a full step deflection of the rotor's position (compared to where it would be aligned with the magnetic field). The deflection in response to a given torque load is called the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sapiensman.com/step_motor/index.htm#load_angle&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;static load angle&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The article calculates &lt;em&gt;incremental&lt;/em&gt; torque for microstepping. The &lt;em&gt;incremental&lt;/em&gt; microstepping torque is the torque required to cause a &lt;em&gt;microstep&lt;/em&gt; deflection. So, if we are using half stepping, the incremental torque is the torque required to cause a half step deflection. Naturally the torque required to cause a half step deflection is (much) lower than the torque required to cause a full step deflection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is actually irrespective of what level of microstepping the motor is configured for. Causing a half step deflection requires the same amount of torque, regardless of whether the motor is using full or half stepping. All lower &lt;em&gt;incremental&lt;/em&gt; torque means is that we're specifying the torque for a smaller deflection. It does not mean torque is reduced overall.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I would expect many lost microsteps with the predefined settings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You cannot &quot;lose&quot; a microstep. The rotor of a stepper motor has physical increments, and losing a step is when it snaps to the next increment. The only thing you can lose is a full step.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The stator of a stepper motor creates a rotating magnetic field. The rotor tries to follow this magnetic field, but (if under load) always lags behind it a little because the coupling between the two magnets behaves like a spring. In full-step mode, the rotating magnetic field moves in discrete steps. All enabling microstepping does is make the field rotate more &quot;smoothly&quot;. However, it doesn't change the magnitude of the field.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you were to look at the graph of the acceleration of the rotor on a very small time scale, you would get a sawtooth wave. Each time the motor made a full step (i.e., the magnetic field jumps), the acceleration would be high (as the misalignment between the fields would be large) and then gradually drop as the rotor aligned itself again with the magnetic field.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you would use 16x microstepping, you would again see a sawtooth wave, but with a 16x higher frequency and with a lower peak-to-peak amplitude. However, the average value would be the same as for full step mode. The reduction in peak-to-peak amplitude corresponds to the reduction in incremental torque (and, for smooth acceleration, this reduction is actually good).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main reason to be interested in incremental torque is to determine the positioning error. If you imagine the printhead being at rest, a single microstep may not cause any motion because the incremental torque is too low to overcome static friction. So, using 16x microstepping will not allow 16x as precise positioning. However, maximum acceleration is not affected.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The second part of your question, where you get the unrealistically low value of 52mm/s&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;, is based on a simple calculation error. The correct value is 52m/s&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; or 52000mm/s&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastEditorUserId="26" LastEditDate="2019-11-21T10:27:25.497" LastActivityDate="2019-11-21T10:27:25.497" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11409" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11360" CreationDate="2019-11-20T23:19:10.153" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;My problem was 2 things. The &lt;strong&gt;heatbreak&lt;/strong&gt;, which was switched out for the MK2 version(Explantation below). And the &lt;strong&gt;Teflon Tube&lt;/strong&gt; that runs down the heatsink.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Heatbreak&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Change the heat-break to a generic E3D one. You can order the heatbreak for the &lt;strong&gt;MK2&lt;/strong&gt; from prusa, or any generic heat break for the E3D hot-end assembly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the Prusa i3 MK3(s), this component has been given a 45° taper in the middle, between 2.2 and 2&amp;nbsp;mm. This is done to ease filament retraction for the MMU, and will be nothing but problematic if you are not using the multi-material upgrade. Especially with higher nozzle pressures(eq. with lower layer lines), the filament may be squeezed into this taper, clogging the hot-end.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may not experience full clogs, but partial ones that will show themselves as streaks in certain layers on the print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Heatsink Teflon Tube&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a teflon tube that runs down the heatsink. It's crucial that this is mounted correctly and it is not entirely intuative how.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, press the teflon tube into the heatsink all the way to the bottom. Then, try to pull it out slightly. You'll notice that the small plastic ring at the top of the heatsink will pull out slightly along with it. Now, hold this black plastic part at it's current position with your fingernail, and push the teflon tube in the extra amount. When done, there should be no play in the tube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19133" LastEditorUserId="19133" LastEditDate="2020-05-11T10:59:06.013" LastActivityDate="2020-05-11T10:59:06.013" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11410" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11411" CreationDate="2019-11-22T00:43:44.027" Score="3" ViewCount="793" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is anyone using hysteresis with their chamber in Marlin?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have read bang-bang with hysteresis is possible when using a bed heater. I would like to do that for chamber heating. I have some lamps that can't keep flicking on and off so rapidly around a setpoint - this causes the bulb to die out faster and the noise is annoying.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Steps to Reproduce:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Start with fresh Marlin Firmware bugfix 2.0&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Enable chamber temperature in Configuration.h (&lt;code&gt;TEMP_CHAMBER_PIN 1&lt;/code&gt;)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Set chamber hysteresis value to 2 in Confgiuration_adv.h (&lt;code&gt;#define TEMP_CHAMBER_HYSTERESIS     2&lt;/code&gt;). Enable &lt;code&gt;#define CHAMBER_LIMIT_SWITCHING&lt;/code&gt; in Configuration_adv.h. Decide on pin to use for your heater, if necessary&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Expected behavior: I would like, when I set my chamber to 30&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C, the chamber lamps to come on until 32&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C, and to stay off until 28&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Actual behavior: chamber heater lamps flick on and off at 30&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C (29.9 - on, 30.1 - off).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10369" LastEditorUserId="10369" LastEditDate="2019-11-22T17:44:26.463" LastActivityDate="2019-11-22T22:24:48.160" Title="Chamber heating using hysteresis in Marlin" Tags="|marlin|heat-management|chamber|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11411" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11410" CreationDate="2019-11-22T01:55:04.513" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It does work, but you need to reset EEPROM memory once updating the firmware, if you had it enabled, so the values are transferred into the EEPROM and subsequently used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To reset  EEPROM, send the following command in your 3d printer terminal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;code&gt;M502&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then, save the firmware default settings&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;code&gt;M500&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10369" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2019-11-22T22:24:48.160" LastActivityDate="2019-11-22T22:24:48.160" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11412" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-11-22T05:52:49.123" Score="2" ViewCount="490" Body="&lt;p&gt;Theoretically what is better- a warped bed with a dip in the middle, or a bulge in the middle?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(I would instinctively think that a dip would be better, since in a perfect world the glass build surface would still span the dip, and then the flatness of the surface relies on the structural integrity of the glass, whereas a bulge would not do the same, instead causing the glass to teeter atop the bulge)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thoughts?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13829" LastActivityDate="2019-11-22T06:58:23.157" Title="Warped bed - bulge vs dip?" Tags="|heated-bed|warping|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11413" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11412" CreationDate="2019-11-22T06:58:23.157" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;That depends on the use. If you have a slate of glass a dip might be better (but the heat transfer at the dip would not be ideal), a bulge would stress and tilt the glass.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you print directly onto the metal build surface it would not matter if you use a(n automatic) bed levelling system because you can compensate for the bulge or the dip using a mesh of the bed. Without a scan of the build platform you would have issues in getting the filament to stick.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically, there is not a better solution, best solution is to get a flat bed if the bulge or dip are making printing difficult.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2019-11-22T06:58:23.157" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11414" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11210" CreationDate="2019-11-22T10:13:14.297" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It ended up I had like super cheap endstops that were actually shorting VCC to GND, as suspected by r_ahlskog. Just bought other ones and now it's working fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14785" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-11-22T14:42:22.597" LastActivityDate="2019-11-22T14:42:22.597" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11415" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11420" CreationDate="2019-11-22T10:17:00.017" Score="1" ViewCount="80" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just scavenged stepper motors from an old laser printer. These have integrated controllers. I'd like to use them without dismantling the controllers. I currently have 4, 6 and 9 wires stepper motors. Any help would be reatly appreciated :) Thanks !&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14785" LastActivityDate="2019-11-22T22:25:50.177" Title="Using stepper motors with integrated controllers" Tags="|diy-3d-printer|stepper-driver|stepper|motor|arduino|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11416" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11417" CreationDate="2019-11-22T13:00:47.630" Score="5" ViewCount="2817" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been experimenting with PETG on my CR-10 upgraded with an E3D all-metal hot end and Marlin firmware on the controller. I am printing with 0.8&amp;nbsp;mm nozzle at 250&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C and an 85&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I print in vase mode, the prints come out beautifully (and quickly with the 0.8&amp;nbsp;mm nozzle). However, with solid-body prints, I routinely get a thermal runaway fault at about the third layer (the fault references E1). Can anyone suggest how to solve this and why the thermal runaway protection only trips with solid-body prints?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For context, when I tried to print the same solid-body print in PLA (205&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C hot end and 50&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C bed) I did not get the thermal runaway fault.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19219" LastEditorUserId="19219" LastEditDate="2019-11-22T13:03:08.047" LastActivityDate="2019-11-23T17:59:19.563" Title="Thermal runaway with specific prints" Tags="|marlin|creality-cr-10|petg|thermistor|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11417" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11416" CreationDate="2019-11-22T13:23:40.383" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Thermal runaway protection (see &lt;a href=&quot;/q/8466&quot;&gt;What is Thermal Runaway Protection?&lt;/a&gt;) is triggered when the scheduled voltage to the heater element does not result in a specified increase in temperature within a specified timeframe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The exit of hot filament from the nozzle and the loss of heat of the heater block and the conduction heat loss through the heat break to the cold end need to be supplied by the heater element. When the filament melting temperature is high, heat losses are relatively high as well, this means that the software needs to compensate by scheduling the heater element more quickly/activated sooner (there is some heat capacity in the heater block) and longer. If it is unable to provide enough heat than is being used, the temperature cannot be maintained and the printer notices that scheduling power doesn't result in a temperature rise. This will trigger the thermal runaway protection in the firmware.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This can imply that too much heat leaves the nozzle in the form of hot filament, and as such, your printing speed may be too high (or the printing temperature too high). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that you are using a 0.8&amp;nbsp;mm nozzle diameter, this means a flow increase of &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$ \frac{0.8^2}{0.4^2}=4 $&lt;/span&gt; with respect to a &quot;standard&quot; 0.4&amp;nbsp;mm nozzle! A slower print speed is therefore advised anyways.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To solve this, you can either:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Insulate the heater block, e.g. with a silicone sock&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Install a different type of heat block, e.g. a E3D Volcano which has a larger heat input zone&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Print slower&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Print at a lower temperature&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Change the firmware settings of your TRP (should be done with care!)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To explain the latter option, from the &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/blob/1.1.x/Marlin/Configuration.h&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Configuration.h&lt;/a&gt; you can read that if you encounter these problems, you can tune this in the &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/blob/1.1.x/Marlin/Configuration_adv.h&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Configuration_adv.h&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Excerpt from Configuration.h:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&#xA; * If you get &quot;Thermal Runaway&quot; or &quot;Heating failed&quot; errors the&#xA; * details can be tuned in Configuration_adv.h&#xA;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Excerpt from Configuration_adv.h:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&#xA; * If you get false positives for &quot;Thermal Runaway&quot;, increase&#xA; * THERMAL_PROTECTION_HYSTERESIS and/or THERMAL_PROTECTION_PERIOD&#xA;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So you need to change these constants:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#define THERMAL_PROTECTION_PERIOD 40        // Seconds&#xA;#define THERMAL_PROTECTION_HYSTERESIS 4     // Degrees Celsius&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The most effective solution for your problem will be limiting print speed and experiment with printing at slightly lower temperatures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-11-23T17:59:19.563" LastActivityDate="2019-11-23T17:59:19.563" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11418" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11421" CreationDate="2019-11-22T13:26:02.340" Score="4" ViewCount="5283" Body="&lt;p&gt;While I was calibrating my flow rate/extrusion multiplier, I noticed that one layer is shifted slightly. I wanted to re-print the cube in-case it was a fluke, but after two more prints, I saw that the same layer was being shifted in the same way. Also, that is the only layer that is shifted, every other layer is perfect/almost perfect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm using Cura 4.3.0, on an Ender 3 which I purchased about a month ago. The extruder is upgraded to a Trianglelabs Bondtech BMG clone. The E, X, Y, and Z steps have all been calibrated. The bed is level (I'm using a Creality ultrabase glass bed). I have upgraded the stock PTFE tubing to Capricorn, upgraded the PTFE coupler fittings (they have plastic tab inserts to keep the tube in place). The X gantry is level. I've also re-lubed the z-rod with super lube, made sure the lead screw nut is loose and printed out a z-spacer for the z stepper motor. That's about it, I'm still using the stock board but my SKR mini is in transit right now. Finally, the filament I'm using is the filament that Creality bundled in with the printer when I purchased it off their official website so I don't know how quality their filament is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Below is a picture of what I'm talking about, I've highlighted in the area with a sharpie. Sorry for the bad image quality my phone is on its last legs at the moment haha:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VGxw5.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VGxw5.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://e3d-online.dozuki.com/Guide/Flow+rate+(Extrusion+multiplier)+calibration+guide./89&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;This is the guide I was using to calibrate the flow rate and also where I got the STL&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19218" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-11-22T13:36:34.473" LastActivityDate="2019-11-22T21:35:38.153" Title="Why am I getting Z banding/shifted layer on a single layer?" Tags="|print-quality|ultimaker-cura|creality-ender-3|calibration|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11419" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11210" CreationDate="2019-11-22T14:13:19.070" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;From your fault description of printer logic board losing power when endstops are released it sounds to me like those endstops are shorting VCC to GND when not pressed. That the fault also goes away when the endstops are unplugged reinforces this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I guess the logic board has its own protected regulator because otherwise you would be shorting out the power supply and that would also turn itself off after likely causing a lot of damage to the logic board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14957" LastActivityDate="2019-11-22T14:13:19.070" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11420" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11415" CreationDate="2019-11-22T14:53:04.327" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Many of the motors that look like stepper motors in laser printers are actually three-phase brush-less DC motors.  These look like stepper motors, but are intended to be used differently, controlled differently, and serve a different function.  Like stepper motors, they have a permanent magnet rotor surrounded by coils of wire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They typically are used in applications that require a definite rotation speed, rather than a definite position -- velocity rather than location. They create feedback to their controlling board via an encoder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Differences include having a smaller number of poles, and possibly having three coils rather than two.  I suspect that the magnetic field profiles of the poles may also be different, since the primary design purpose is not to sharply define the restoring torque curve for a small deviation of the rotor from a rotational position.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If these are the type of motors you have in hand, you won't find them very useful for a 3D printer motion control system.  They are great for any form of continuous movement where position isn't critical -- maybe wheel motors for robots or for peristaltic pumps on your automated drink mixer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may ask on what experience I speak.  I have done tear-down analysis of several laser printers by different manufacturers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2082" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2019-11-22T22:25:50.177" LastActivityDate="2019-11-22T22:25:50.177" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11421" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11418" CreationDate="2019-11-22T21:35:38.153" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I started this as a comment but it couldn't fit.  If it isn't a true answer and should be removed, I understand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You suggest in your question that perhaps the defect could be caused by a problem in the Z-axis lead screw.  Indeed, that is possible.  If so, it would probably introduce a defect at that position across the entire print bed.  If you print a test object and the defect is on all faces at the same height, check your Z-axis.  With the power removed, try slowly moving the bed up and down through the region where the defect occurs, feeling for any hangup, hesitation, looseness, or any other non-uniformity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the defect is along a particular line, check the complementary axis.  If the glitch is a X-axis line, check the Y-axis.  If a Y-axis line, check the X-axis.  Slid the axis back a forth slowly, feeling for any non-uniformity in the motion.  It could be a scratch on the linear bearing, or a ding from dropping something.  Any discontinuity  can cause a linear Z-axis defect, up or down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It could even be cause by the printer not being firmly sitting on the table at an angle, so that after a particular point the balance point changes and the printer rocks, introducing a glitch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3D printers, and many other motion control systems, relay on flat, smooth, uniform bearing surfaces connected to smooth, continuous drive systems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you attach photos of all four surfaces, we might have a better idea of how to look for the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It wouldn't hurt at this point to wipe and clean all sliding surfaces, and then re-lubricate them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2082" LastActivityDate="2019-11-22T21:35:38.153" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11422" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-11-23T07:13:20.813" Score="7" ViewCount="8537" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is the difference between:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tune -&gt; Bed Z &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tune -&gt; Babystep Z&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Control -&gt; Motion -&gt; Z Offset&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And when are you supposed to use &quot;Bed Z&quot;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13829" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-11-24T11:51:16.907" LastActivityDate="2019-11-25T10:50:23.540" Title="Marlin &quot;Tune-&gt;Bed Z&quot; vs &quot;Tune-&gt;Babystep Z&quot; vs Z Offset?" Tags="|z-axis|print-axis-offset|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11423" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4530" CreationDate="2019-11-23T18:05:54.003" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;First of all, don't specify the extrusion width, the slicing software does the calculation for the optimal value by itself: if you watch &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/9YaJ0wSKKHA&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this video&lt;/a&gt; about extrusion width and you cross the data with &lt;a href=&quot;https://twitter.com/profsen/status/1187390019088113675?s=19&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this tweet&lt;/a&gt; you will see that the standard value is already optimal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second, if you put the printer in a box for insulation you should redo the temperature calibration tower to find out which temperature produces the best results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you do both you'll find the problem will disappear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2338" LastActivityDate="2019-11-23T18:05:54.003" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11424" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-11-23T22:42:01.473" Score="3" ViewCount="1384" Body="&lt;p&gt;After approx. a year of more or less problem-free printing (40 days print time) with Prusa i3 mk3 kit, we started to suffer the random layer shifting on Y axis.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;We inspected all the motor connectors are properly inserted in the mainboard and the wires are intact.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;We ensured all the pulleys' screws on the x/y motor shafts are very tight and secure to be sure the pulleys don't slip.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;We inspected the belts and pulleys, there is no mechanical problem like dust blobs, filament residues, etc.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;We tightened the belts to be hard enough to show the expected &lt;code&gt;support|belt status&lt;/code&gt; value (under 280) after &lt;code&gt;self test&lt;/code&gt; is performed.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;We switched off the &lt;code&gt;crash detection&lt;/code&gt; feature.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;We fully cleaned/re-lubricated the Y axis linear bearings and the rods to be sure there is no dirt causing any friction.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;We tightened the nuts on the U holders fixing the bearings to the bed (hard enough not to squeeze the bearings so they can freely move on the rods).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;We bought Japan &lt;code&gt;PNY LM8UU&lt;/code&gt; bearings and replaced the original ones on Y axis (suspecting they are worn out).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Nothing of these helped fully:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Some steps improved the quality (like only one random skip in print).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Some steps degraded the quality (like additional step skips in previously flawless X axis).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since the issues started, we had 4 hour reference design to be printed again and again using the same setup/filament etc. It became reference because its print started to exhibit the skips. We refused to slow down the print or perform any other workarounds, because we wanted to &lt;code&gt;make the printer great again&lt;/code&gt; ;-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What else should have been done to revert back to flawless prints without random X/Y step skipping and thus layer shifting?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19228" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-12-16T17:53:27.033" LastActivityDate="2019-12-16T17:53:27.033" Title="Prusa i3 mk3 step skipping and layer shifting" Tags="|prusa-i3|layer-shifting|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11425" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11424" CreationDate="2019-11-23T22:42:01.473" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Long story short: &lt;strong&gt;Try to replace the stock power supply.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;We connected UPS between the printer supply and the wall outlet and the skips reduced to one/two per print.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;We replaced the supply with random old used &lt;code&gt;Mean Well SP-320&lt;/code&gt; (zero care about the power panic feature, just plain 24V connected) and voilà: reference design passed.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Also few more complex designs after supply switch are still flawless, so we hope that was the problem and it's fixed now.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;This Q&amp;amp;A post is to help others to skip the major frustration and save some time.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19228" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2019-11-24T08:06:09.650" LastActivityDate="2019-11-24T08:06:09.650" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11426" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8474" CreationDate="2019-11-24T16:58:09.213" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This I hope will help: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You must see which is the type of ABS you use, in terms of temperature. If you have an ABS material which melts at 220 - 250&amp;nbsp;°C it is difficult cu work with it using an Adventurer 3. For example I use Verbatim (220 - 240 deg Celsius) and that works well.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Bed temperature must be set between 90 - 100 degree Celsius.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;For beginning, it is good to work with Raft activated.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Do not use &quot;Cooling Fan Controls: Automatic&quot;, because the fan will work all the time. This is not good, it will peal your raft all the time because of the temperature difference between bed and fan blow. It is good to set the cooling fan &quot;ON(when to pre-set height)&quot; usually I use 1 mm to 1.5 mm max. This will start the cooling fan at the height you indicate.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Always use the cooling fan as mentioned before because your print will be much better with it, you'll see.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19235" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2019-11-24T17:50:57.497" LastActivityDate="2019-11-24T17:50:57.497" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11428" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11422" CreationDate="2019-11-25T10:50:23.540" Score="7" Body="&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tune -&gt; Bed Z&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://marlinfw.org/docs/features/lcd_menu.html#tune&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://marlinfw.org/docs/features/lcd_menu.html#tune&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Per description in this table, this refers to the Mesh Bed Leveling process. It allows to modify all saved mesh z-offsets by the given amount.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tune -&gt; Babystep Z&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M290.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M290.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This just instructs the motor to move the given amount, once, without changing any parameters. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Control -&gt; Motion -&gt; Z Offset&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M851.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M851.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here we are talking about the offset of a z probe (e.g. BL-Touch) from the nozzle. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17202" LastActivityDate="2019-11-25T10:50:23.540" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11429" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10587" CreationDate="2019-11-25T12:13:43.573" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;/a/10588/&quot;&gt;This answer&lt;/a&gt; already explains how you insert the G-codes to enable a pause into your model. But, &lt;strong&gt;this will only work if the printer supports the G-codes that are inserted by Cura&lt;/strong&gt;. E.g. &lt;a href=&quot;/q/11236&quot;&gt;this question&lt;/a&gt; shows that this does not always work!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To pause the printer you would need to resort into other methods, e.g. a manually inserted &lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#G4:_Dwell&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;code&gt;G4&lt;/code&gt; (Dwell)&lt;/a&gt; would be a viable solution as shown in  &lt;a href=&quot;/a/11242&quot;&gt;this answer&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2019-11-26T13:05:52.693" LastActivityDate="2019-11-26T13:05:52.693" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11430" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7676" CreationDate="2019-11-25T13:15:13.563" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;As Mark said, Marlin supports a number of menu items in it's advanced configuration. These items are meant to run custom G-code, which in this case (adding a preheat action with custom target extruder and bed temp) is enough to fill your needs. So, let's see that advanced configuration file: Configuration_adv.h. The section we are looking for is almost at the end of the file, you can ctrl+f for &quot;CUSTOM_USER_MENUS&quot; to find it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#define CUSTOM_USER_MENUS&#xA;#if ENABLED(CUSTOM_USER_MENUS)&#xA;  #define USER_SCRIPT_DONE &quot;M117 User Script Done&quot;&#xA;  #define USER_SCRIPT_AUDIBLE_FEEDBACK&#xA;  //#define USER_SCRIPT_RETURN  // Return to status screen after a script&#xA;&#xA;  #define USER_DESC_1 &quot;Do the trick&quot;&#xA;  #define USER_GCODE_1 &quot;G91\nG0 z5\nG0 y10&quot;&#xA;&#xA;  #define USER_DESC_2 &quot;Park&quot;&#xA;  #define USER_GCODE_2 &quot;G27 P2&quot;&#xA;&#xA;  //#define USER_DESC_2 &quot;Preheat for PLA&quot;&#xA;  //#define USER_GCODE_2 &quot;M140 S&quot; STRINGIFY(PREHEAT_1_TEMP_BED) &quot;\nM104 S&quot; STRINGIFY(PREHEAT_1_TEMP_HOTEND)&#xA;&#xA;  //#define USER_DESC_3 &quot;Preheat for ABS&quot;&#xA;  //#define USER_GCODE_3 &quot;M140 S&quot; STRINGIFY(PREHEAT_2_TEMP_BED) &quot;\nM104 S&quot; STRINGIFY(PREHEAT_2_TEMP_HOTEND)&#xA;&#xA;  //#define USER_DESC_4 &quot;Heat Bed/Home/Level&quot;&#xA;  //#define USER_GCODE_4 &quot;M140 S&quot; STRINGIFY(PREHEAT_2_TEMP_BED) &quot;\nG28\nG29&quot;&#xA;&#xA;  //#define USER_DESC_5 &quot;Home &amp;amp; Info&quot;&#xA;  //#define USER_GCODE_5 &quot;G28\nM503&quot;&#xA;#endif&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The source code downloaded from the official repo actually comes with some examples (the ones commented) and I added two more just for fun. &#xA;To get your custom preheat menu item working you'll make use of the following Gcodes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;M140: set target bed temperature (visit&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M140.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M140.html&lt;/a&gt; for some more data)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;M104: set hot end target temperature (visit&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M104.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M104.html&lt;/a&gt; for some more data)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19239" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-11-27T08:41:16.547" LastActivityDate="2019-11-27T08:41:16.547" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11431" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-11-25T20:13:24.397" Score="4" ViewCount="6742" Body="&lt;p&gt;How would I go about editing the LCD menus for the touchscreen?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Oddly the Ender 5+ is supposed to be an upgrade but the Ender 5 (regular) has so much more stuff you can control from the LCD screen. Flow control, PID tuning, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With my Ender 3 is was pretty easy- you simply edit the &lt;code&gt;ultralcd.cpp&lt;/code&gt;, you can then add your own menus and commands.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the Ender 5+ and the CR-10S pro I'm guessing the touchscreen has its own set of firmware files- I am guessing this because I found a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3484675&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;set of files&lt;/a&gt; for the touchscreen- different color screens and such, but they do not include any uncompiled files nor does the marlin firmware for the CR-10 have any mention of those image files in them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So where do I go next? Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kuH1O.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kuH1O.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JVjy5.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JVjy5.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;The Ender 5+ and CR-10s both got rid of the traditional LCD with the wheel in favor of the touchscreen; unfortunately it has a lot less functionality. I don't know where to find the specs, I got this printer from Creality &amp;quot;official&amp;quot; website but they will not release specs on the boards in this printer, I already emailed them. Here is a pic of the board itself.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/O3U4b.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/O3U4b.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13829" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-07-02T06:36:32.970" LastActivityDate="2021-07-02T07:53:13.283" Title="CR-10S / Ender5+ LCD Touchscreen Firmware Editing" Tags="|marlin|firmware|creality-cr-10|creality-ender-5|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11433" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11434" CreationDate="2019-11-26T14:54:17.227" Score="1" ViewCount="4386" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Fusion360, how do I align components according to their a midplane?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have 2 complex objects. They have no midpoint defined (is that even possible). How do I align them according to their mid points?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12857" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2019-11-26T17:12:19.683" LastActivityDate="2019-11-26T17:40:47.730" Title="In Fusion360, how do I align components according to their a midplane?" Tags="|3d-design|fusion360|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11434" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11433" CreationDate="2019-11-26T17:40:47.730" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are several ways to lock items together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Designed in position&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you design the parts from the base up, you should lock the very first sketch to the origin in some way or another. Fusion shows this by making any &quot;well defined&quot; line as black in contrast to blue, like shown here:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/smOOh.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/smOOh.png&quot; alt=&quot;Left line: well defined&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Using Components&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you have bodies, you can pretty much move them around in the timeflow. You then can start to define them as components. Let's assume we have these parts, a bolt, and a part into which it hinges. Of course, these two are modeled &quot;in place&quot; but that hasn't to be:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KOHkd.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KOHkd.png&quot; alt=&quot;Bolt and bar with hole&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, we want to lock them together... well, first, let's start and put them into components! Highlight &lt;strong&gt;one&lt;/strong&gt;, then choose the &quot;new component&quot; command, and make sure it stays highlighted, from bodies is chosen then hit enter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0g1Zk.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0g1Zk.png&quot; alt=&quot;New Component button&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Repeat for the other part, so your tree should show 2 components now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PJQmB.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PJQmB.png&quot; alt=&quot;Components in the tree&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Combine Components as modeled&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now we want to combine them &lt;em&gt;as modeled&lt;/em&gt;, right? Ok, let's do that, it's easy! get out the dropdown from the combine menu and press &lt;em&gt;combine as modeled (Ctrl + J)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8QtCi.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8QtCi.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, click both components and at first it will start to shake the screen, having chosen &quot;Stiff&quot; combination. This means the parts don't shift one against the other. If you had them in the right position in the first place, they will stay that way. But there are other ways, which are in the menu that popped up:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HqGnh.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HqGnh.png&quot; alt=&quot;All possible combinations&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If for example, I choose &quot;rotation&quot;, I can choose a rotation center by placing a node as seen here:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FgrHg.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FgrHg.png&quot; alt=&quot;Rotational constraint&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Creating Joints between Components&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, what if the components are not in position like the bolt is in the wrong position entirely? Well, start with components, as shown above, then we'll see:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cg0Dv.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cg0Dv.png&quot; alt=&quot;Position&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, we should use the joint function:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yNpXL.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yNpXL.png&quot; alt=&quot;Joints&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Choose the first Component, then seek the point which face-position (or for cylinders: position on centerline) shall be the first component's joint-point shall be. For our part, let's take the big part's hole. Click the face, then choose one of the available points. For cylinders that's the ends and the center, for faces, it's the corners, center points of the edges and the center. If you hit the possible alignment points in the first place, it skips the second click to choose it. Once that is done, the body turns transparent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gVDvK.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gVDvK.png&quot; alt=&quot;Select Face&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XrtHL.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XrtHL.png&quot; alt=&quot;Select alignment point&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Repeat the same process for part 2 and the magic starts: Both parts suddenly move till the alignment points are in the same position, the screen shakes and BAM! We are at stiff joint again! The menu changes and we can start to define offsets!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jiGEV.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jiGEV.png&quot; alt=&quot;New options&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastActivityDate="2019-11-26T17:40:47.730" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11435" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11449" CreationDate="2019-11-27T06:00:50.600" Score="1" ViewCount="567" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an Anet A8 with the Anet 1.7 board, Skynet3d v2.3.2, and the stock sensor. I originally had this configuration with the stock extruder, but recently purchased an E3D v6 clone with a Bowden extruder. After installing a new bracket I had printed (&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2099577&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;TNS E3D v6 Bracket&lt;/a&gt;) with the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2283440&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;adjustable stock sensor mount&lt;/a&gt;. I installed the extruder and sensor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I knew I had to adjust sensor position. I went through the &lt;a href=&quot;/q/8153/&quot;&gt;3DStackExchange post on Z probe boundary limits&lt;/a&gt; as well, and added all of the end positions and probe to nozzle offsets (I will list below) to my &lt;code&gt;Configuration.h&lt;/code&gt; file, saved, checked the changes were there in the &lt;code&gt;Configuration.h&lt;/code&gt; tab in the Arduino IDE and uploaded the firmware. After this I went to hit auto leveling in the prepare menu, and the positions were different from the stock extruder and mount, but when it got to the third position, the sensor was off the bed, and the nozzle dug into the bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The configuration I was editing was from the Anet A8 5 button stock sensor &lt;code&gt;Configuration.h&lt;/code&gt; file.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My probe is (When looking from the front of the Anet A8) forward and right of the nozzle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;My Y-axis offset is -3 (the sensor is 3 mm in front of the nozzle when looking from the front)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;My X-axis offset is +37 (the sensor is 37 mm to the right of the nozzle when looking from the front)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The stock &lt;code&gt;min_probe_edge&lt;/code&gt; is 10 mm, so with my math my Left Probe Bed Position is 47, Right is 210, Back is 207, and front is 10.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to get my probe settings properly set up so I get my bed leveling back and I do not want to ruin my bed while leveling. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19250" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-11-29T19:06:45.443" LastActivityDate="2019-12-01T13:56:10.303" Title="Anet A8 Z-Probe Bed Positioning going outside of bounds" Tags="|anet-a8|bed-leveling|z-probe|skynet3d|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11436" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-11-27T06:42:42.957" Score="5" ViewCount="367" Body="&lt;p&gt;I switched my Anet A8 over to a Bowden and it's printing great. Moving that weight off has enabled me to almost double the speed and resonance problems have vanished. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is regarding after the print is done should I add a retraction code and back the filament out of the v6 or is it okay to leave it in there?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My concern is that if I leave it in there, will it cause a clog or anything when I warm up the printer tomorrow to print something else? If that's not a something I should be concerned about let me know.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19251" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2019-11-27T11:24:42.790" LastActivityDate="2019-11-29T07:11:36.070" Title="Switched to a Bowden setup. Should I retract the filament out at the end of a print?" Tags="|anet-a8|bowden|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11437" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11431" CreationDate="2019-11-27T09:00:36.767" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been digging into the sources and from what I understand, it is not very easy to change the menus, you should possess some programming skills to change it. It appears that the screen is operating on its own firmware and the board is running a special fork from Marlin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The screen is identified in code by constant &lt;code&gt;CREALITY_DWIN&lt;/code&gt;. It appears that the screen receives/uses precreated images (from &lt;a href=&quot;https://drive.google.com/open?id=1SfwseoqTlIGuDYYDXvPwLLFd_D93qS0_&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this download&lt;/a&gt; you find these screen captures). The code references the bitmaps by a number and a base number (&lt;code&gt;ExchangePageBase&lt;/code&gt;). E.g. codeline:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;RTS_SndData(ExchangePageBase + 78, ExchangepageAddr);&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;sends this image:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HG6X7.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;78_E_no_filement1.bmp&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HG6X7.png&quot; alt=&quot;English screen shot 78_E_no_filement1.bmp&quot; title=&quot;78_E_no_filement1.bmp&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The specific code is found in &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/InsanityAutomation/Marlin/tree/bugfix-2.0.x/Marlin/src/lcd&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this specific fork of Marlin&lt;/a&gt; in files &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/InsanityAutomation/Marlin/blob/bugfix-2.0.x/Marlin/src/lcd/dwin/dwin_lcd.cpp&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Creality_DWIN.cpp&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/InsanityAutomation/Marlin/blob/bugfix-2.0.x/Marlin/src/lcd/dwin/dwin_lcd.h&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Creality_DWIN.h&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In order to make your own menu item, you need to add code to send new bitmaps and retrieve the touched position.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-07-02T07:53:13.283" LastActivityDate="2021-07-02T07:53:13.283" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11438" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11439" CreationDate="2019-11-27T10:20:23.010" Score="3" ViewCount="10367" Body="&lt;p&gt;From the &lt;a href=&quot;http://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M502.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;code&gt;M502&lt;/code&gt; documentation page&lt;/a&gt; can be read that &lt;code&gt;M502&lt;/code&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Reset all configurable settings to their factory defaults.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sub&gt;&lt;em&gt;Please note that this phrasing from the manual has been used in the question title!&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;To also reset settings in EEPROM, follow with M500.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;This command can be used even if EEPROM_SETTINGS is disabled.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The question is what is the definition of &lt;em&gt;&quot;all configurable settings&quot;&lt;/em&gt;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are these the settings that are displayed with &lt;a href=&quot;http://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M503.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;code&gt;M503&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/a&gt;, or are there hidden settings?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-11-26T06:48:17.923" LastActivityDate="2021-11-26T06:48:17.923" Title="M502 will reset all configurable settings to their &quot;factory defaults&quot;, which settings are those?" Tags="|marlin|g-code|knowledgebase|reset|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11439" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11438" CreationDate="2019-11-27T10:36:56.577" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;What Marlin does when &lt;code&gt;M502&lt;/code&gt; is called is defined in the &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/blob/bugfix-2.0.x/Marlin/src/module/configuration_store.cpp&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;code&gt;configuration_store.cpp&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/a&gt; file.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It resets:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Max acceleration&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Steps per mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Max feedrate / speed&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Min segment time&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Acceleration (Normal, Retract, Travel)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Min feedrate&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Min travel feedrate&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Jerk settings&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Junction deviation&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Home and SCARA offsets&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hot end offsets&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Filament runout sensor distance&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tool change parameters (Swap length, extra prime, prime speed, retract speed, Park &#xA;positions, Z raise)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Backlash correction distances and smoothing parameters&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Extensible UI&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Magnetic parking extruder settings&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;ABL (fade height, stored points, nozzle offset, servo angles&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Delta calibration data (Height, Endstop offset, radius, rod length, segments per &#xA;second, calibration radius, trim angle)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Dual / triple endstop adjustments&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Preheat parameters&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;PID parameters&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;self-defined thermistors&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;LCD contrast&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Power loss recovery&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Firmware retraction&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Filament diameter (for volumetric extrusion)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Endstops (if disabled)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Stepper drivers&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Linear advance parameters&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Motor currents (digipot)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;CNC coordinate system (if selected)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Skew correction parameters&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Advance pause filament change lengths&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13171" LastActivityDate="2019-11-27T10:36:56.577" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11440" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11438" CreationDate="2019-11-27T13:51:47.973" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Technically, the description as &quot;factory settings&quot; is misguiding, as the settings called up are much better described as &quot;firmware defined settings&quot;. But since Firmware upgrades usually are rare and far between, these settings can be considered &quot;factory&quot; for the usual user, even as we always urge users to test if their firmware &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/8466/what-is-thermal-runaway-protection&quot;&gt;has TRP enabled&lt;/a&gt; and upgrade if not so. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on the firmware, this usually means the settings described in &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/11439/8884&quot;&gt;this answer&lt;/a&gt;, but it could also be more narrow or extend to different and custom settings inside the firmware. Marlin, when it uses &lt;a href=&quot;https://sebastian.expert/enable-disable-eeprom-commands-marlin/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;EEPROM_SETTINGS&lt;/a&gt;, uses &lt;code&gt;Configurations.h&lt;/code&gt; and the additional &lt;code&gt;Configurations_adv.h&lt;/code&gt; to define what the factory settings are.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example in &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/q/11410/8884&quot;&gt;this question&lt;/a&gt; the firmware defined the additional settings in &lt;code&gt;Configuration_adv.h&lt;/code&gt;. Installing firmware does not by itself alter the EEPROM, so these settings needed to be &lt;em&gt;seeded into SRAM&lt;/em&gt; via &lt;a href=&quot;http://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M500.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;code&gt;M502&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/a&gt; and then &lt;em&gt;saved into EEPROM&lt;/em&gt; via &lt;a href=&quot;http://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M500.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;code&gt;M500&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The remaining commands in the &lt;code&gt;M50X&lt;/code&gt; series are obviously &lt;a href=&quot;http://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M500.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;code&gt;M501&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M500.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;code&gt;M503&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;code&gt;M501&lt;/code&gt; overwrites the SRAM settings with those from the EEPROM, useful if you toy with the SRAM settings to troubleshoot or play with offsets in a somewhat safe manner. &lt;code&gt;M503&lt;/code&gt; in turn reports all settings currently in the SRAM, which can be changed during running. Most of these settings can be stored into the EEPROM, if EEPROM_SETTINGS is enabled, but they don't necessarily have to come from the EEPROM at the moment, as they can be altered due to a lot of reasons. Your G-code to print could call for example &lt;code&gt;G20&lt;/code&gt; and &lt;code&gt;M149 K&lt;/code&gt; just to mess with you by swapping to Inches and Kelvin, but that would be easily fixable by recalling &lt;code&gt;M501&lt;/code&gt;. This following &lt;code&gt;M503&lt;/code&gt; output was given as an example by &lt;a href=&quot;https://sebastian.expert/marlin-g-codes-m500-m501-m502-m503/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Sebastian.expert&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;G21    ; Units in mm&#xA;M149 C ; Units in Celsius&#xA;Filament settings: Disabled&#xA;M200 D1.75&#xA;M200 D0&#xA;Steps per unit:&#xA;M92 X100.00 Y100.00 Z398.70 E100.00&#xA;Maximum feedrates (units/s):&#xA;M203 X400.00 Y400.00 Z8.00 E50.00&#xA;Maximum Acceleration (units/s2):&#xA;M201 X1000 Y1000 Z100 E10000&#xA;Acceleration (units/s2): P R T&#xA;M204 P400.00 R1000.00 T1000.00&#xA;Advanced: S T B X Z E&#xA;M205 S0.00 T0.00 B20000 X10.00 Y10.00 Z0.30 E5.00&#xA;Home offset:&#xA;M206 X0.00 Y0.00 Z0.00&#xA;Auto Bed Leveling:&#xA;M420 S1 Z0.00&#xA;Material heatup parameters:&#xA;M145 S0 H195 B55 F0&#xA;M145 S1 H205 B60 F0&#xA;PID settings:&#xA;M301 P52.25 I5.60 D122.00&#xA;Z-Probe Offset (mm):&#xA;M851 Z-2.41&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that with a &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10573/what-is-a-printer-console-terminal&quot;&gt;console or terminal&lt;/a&gt;, you could sometimes alter EEPROM settings directly via a UI. Among the terminals I know to have this ability is Repetier Host.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-11-27T14:12:56.547" LastActivityDate="2019-11-27T14:12:56.547" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11442" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-11-28T09:45:17.703" Score="0" ViewCount="90" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've switched to industrial 3D printing. &#xA;I use 3DSystems Flex 100 printer. &#xA;As I print high detailed parts soon I've found out that I have to use quality control.&#xA;Software is not a question. I use Geomagic Design X and Geomagic Control X. Sometimes I also Use Solidworks as I started my engineering way with Solidworks :-) &#xA;The thing is that I have to choose a 3D scanner. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It has to work with small (3-7 cm in general) high detailed parts. I also would like to use the scanner as a helping tool with reverse engineering. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Actually, I have one scanner in my mind: 3D Systems recommended me the Artec Micro. I've researched &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.artec3d.com/portable-3d-scanners/artec-micro&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;all the data Artec provides&lt;/a&gt;... It sounds good, resolution, works with Geomagic software, bla bla bla... &#xA;But when I've tried to search web for any user experience, I've found pretty nothing. I'm quite a noob with 3D scanning so I'm afraid to buy such a device without being able to see if it really suits my needs. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The question is: &quot;Does anyone have experience with this or any other 3D scanner, used for similar purpose as mine an can recommend it, or tell me not to buy it?&quot;. Or any tips how to find out if the scanner suits my needs before actually buying it. &#xA;I know how to choose the right printer, but scanners are confusing:-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19261" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-11-28T10:42:33.100" LastActivityDate="2020-05-06T04:05:40.567" Title="3D scanner for both replicate and quality control 3D prints" Tags="|cad|scanning|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11443" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6664" CreationDate="2019-11-28T11:13:32.553" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had a real problem with what I was poor bed adhesion and layer separation on my 6month old Ender 3 pro. this problem started all at once, I checked the bed height several times and layer height, temperatures etc still the problem was there.&#xA;Then I noticed the filament guide pinch roller was at a slight angle and on further inspection the plastic arm on removal was fractured so instead of holding the filament against the toothed drive it was metal to metal causing a slip on the nozzle feed.&#xA;I ordered a replacement aluminium feed roller kit at £6.99 the machine is working as it did when I first got it.&#xA;So it’s worth removing the pinch arm and inspecting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19262" LastActivityDate="2019-11-28T11:13:32.553" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11444" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11436" CreationDate="2019-11-28T13:07:48.720" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's okay to leave the filament in the hot end, as long as you let it cool down with the hot end cooling fan running.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;From comment:&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;That's not an issue, you can simply leave it in the hot end. The only &quot;end of print&quot; clogs usually occur when leaving the hot end hot for a while - allowing the filament to drip out - and then retract the filament without feeding it against the nozzle once more. That creates a plug that's larger than the filament diameter that might get stuck in the bowden tube&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13171" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-11-29T07:11:36.070" LastActivityDate="2019-11-29T07:11:36.070" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11445" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11436" CreationDate="2019-11-28T16:55:27.133" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I agree with towe's answer. I would leave it, retracting at most a mm or two just to avoid a mess. If you retract much at end of print, initial state for the second or later print is different from after just loading new filament, and this leads to different priming/skirt outcomes for the two cases, which can be problematic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2019-11-28T16:55:27.133" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11446" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11436" CreationDate="2019-11-29T01:03:04.297" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;After the completion of a print, remove the filament from the Bowden tube as it may break while not printing and can sometimes be difficult to remove. Basically if you aren’t going to do another print soon, remove the filament.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18867" LastActivityDate="2019-11-29T01:03:04.297" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11449" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11435" CreationDate="2019-11-30T13:40:10.500" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have done major revisions to the printhead by changing to another carriage, it could be that the nozzle in the carriage is not at the exact position as in the previous carriage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, have you made sure that the new carriage has the appropriate values so that the nozzle is at (0, 0) when commanded to that position? Alternatively, in different wordings, this translates to: &quot;Is the printer printing in the center?/Are the prints centered on the build plate?&quot;. See e.g. &lt;a href=&quot;/6375&quot;&gt;&quot;How to center my prints on the build platform? (Re-calibrate homing offset)&quot;&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the Thingiverse link van be read that this carriage requires an offset. The carriage design mentions a shift of the X axis: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#define X_MIN_POS -10&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is that working for you? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;General remarks regarding the firmware update:&#xA;Have you also loaded all values from firmware using &lt;code&gt;M502&lt;/code&gt; and then &lt;code&gt;M500&lt;/code&gt;? (if &lt;code&gt;M500&lt;/code&gt; commands are enabled). Also, &lt;a href=&quot;/a/6200&quot;&gt;Skynet3D is obsolete!&lt;/a&gt;, use Marlin instead!&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-12-01T07:57:24.523" LastActivityDate="2019-12-01T07:57:24.523" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11450" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-11-30T16:54:34.203" Score="5" ViewCount="2813" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Update below&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Printed 650 of these tokens, no problem. Then all of a sudden I can't get them to stick and the first layer looks wavy and weird.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BYuDc.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Closeup&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BYuDc.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Closeup&quot; title=&quot;Closeup&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After a few tokens it knocks one loose and the whole print fails.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Did try to recalibrate the z-height. Should it be even closer? The test pattern for first layer height looks good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Removed the nozzle to inspect if it's damaged but it looks fine to me...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jf49h.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Whole bed&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jf49h.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Whole bed&quot; title=&quot;Whole bed&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any help is much appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Update - Dec 29th 2019&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With the new nozzle and recalibration I managed to get one more print to stick as in my answer below. Then back to not sticking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did order a textured plate from Prusa. Recalibrated the XYZ. That did not help.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;I have played around with the first layer calibration.&#xA;In the video below the setting of -0.900 is fixed the whole time.&#xA;The lines look good and healthy but then lifts on the right side of the bed.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9xsC4sDvSuY&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Video of first layer calibration&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I then moved the nozzle even closer and REALLY smash it into the bed @ -1.050&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;It still lifts on the right side and a little bit in the corners. The first purge plastic that is output to the bottom left usually does not stick at all.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=acMJT58IKgY&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Untouched with nozzle closer&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Things I have done:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Recalibrated the XY &amp;amp; Z axis from scratch.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Did two cold pulls of the filament (&lt;a href=&quot;https://help.prusa3d.com/article/WWVRzOY1dX-clogged-nozzle&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;link&lt;/a&gt;) to make sure the extruder is not clogged. The pulled filament looked nice and clean.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Switched to new textured bed sheet&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Switched to a new 0.4mm nozzle (E3D V6)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tried different filaments (only PLA though)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lubricated moving parts&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Checked heat bed to make sure screws are tight and the bed sits snuggly&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Two ideas now:&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Can it be the mesh leveling that is acting up? How do I check that?&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;The heat bed feels differently warm in different places. Is the heat bed constructed with different zones where one can fail and the rest keep working? Do not have access to a heat camera to check.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any suggestions would be much appreciated!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;EDIT:&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks @Paulster2! It's good to find this community!&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;I've been using several different PLA filaments since this started happening. Before, they all stuck to the printing bed like champions, now none of them do. Pictured is som generic white, but getting the same result with Prusament PLA. Nozzle 215°C, Bed 60°C. As I wrote above, I did check the nozzle and it &lt;em&gt;LOOKS&lt;/em&gt; fine. It's very small though and I have ordered new nozzles. If no one has any other suggestions I will post more when I have tried the new nozzle.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Also thanks to @Greenonline for correcting spelling and layout. Cheers!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19284" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:29:41.667" LastActivityDate="2020-04-14T05:53:16.553" Title="First layer looks weird and print fails" Tags="|prusa-i3|adhesion|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11451" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11450" CreationDate="2019-12-01T04:59:38.157" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;A problem I encountered a similar problem with adhesion because the nozzle was pressing straight into the bed. This made the filament squeeze out the side resulting in near zero adhesion. Check that the print bed is levelled and the nozzle isn’t obstructed by anything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18867" LastActivityDate="2019-12-01T04:59:38.157" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11453" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11435" CreationDate="2019-12-01T13:56:10.303" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Do you have eeprom enabled? Because if you do, you can change configuration.h all you want but it's always gonna use the values from eeprom. I advise you to install repetier and change the eeprom values with that. Or maybe you can use the display if you have one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19290" LastActivityDate="2019-12-01T13:56:10.303" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11455" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-12-01T19:50:11.337" Score="5" ViewCount="149" Body="&lt;p&gt;To date I have used &lt;a href=&quot;http://replicat.org/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;RepG&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.repetier.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Repetier with CuraEngine&lt;/a&gt; to do my slicing.  In various instances when printing a layer of a cylinder it will start in the middle and head out toward either side.  Then it moves the nozzle back to the center and prints toward the other side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Knowledge of &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Travelling_salesman_problem&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;TSP&lt;/a&gt; suggests the print would go a lot quicker if the travel operation back to the middle were omitted.  Here is an &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hjGYc03HGU8&amp;amp;feature=youtu.be&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;example&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By that I mean that to fill the layer of a cylinder from one edge, across the middle to the edge on the right.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is why is this done?   &lt;strong&gt;What advantage does printing it in two passes have over printing it in one pass?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1397" LastEditorUserId="12562" LastEditDate="2019-12-05T19:47:00.847" LastActivityDate="2019-12-05T19:47:00.847" Title="Does CuraEngine get some advantage slicing cylinders to move the head back to the center twice on each layer?" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|slicing|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11456" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11043" CreationDate="2019-12-01T19:59:00.387" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Trimet3d has a Nano diamond PLA with a claimed thermal conductivity 3-5 times that of PLA. The diamonds are sub-microscopic and smooth. See &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.tiamet3d.com/product-page/ultra-diamond-pla-1kg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.tiamet3d.com/product-page/ultra-diamond-pla-1kg&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;Primarily they seem to be doing it to gain strength.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would prefer larger diamonds for higher thermal conductivity. It would be ferociously abrasive even for a diamond nozzle.  It would also limit the thermal expansion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19293" LastActivityDate="2019-12-01T19:59:00.387" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11457" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11455" CreationDate="2019-12-02T07:15:19.883" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It doesn’t really have much of effect in the actual print. I’m pretty sure the setting can be modified either in the GUI or through gcode. Usually it’s just the standard process when filling in a flat surface. There could be some minor benefits that are quality related. But my main assumption would be for ironing if you have that setting enabled. It would allow it to smooth it better starting from the middle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18867" LastActivityDate="2019-12-02T07:15:19.883" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11458" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11461" CreationDate="2019-12-02T11:14:10.940" Score="3" ViewCount="107" Body="&lt;p&gt;I regularly have 3D models that consist of a Boolean union of balls and cylinders (molecule models, star maps, mathematical designs), that I then want to convert to a STL model for printing at Shapeways. But I don't know how to easily do that! I already have the model as a series of floating point numbers (four for each ball, and seven for each cylinder), so I don't want to have to go into a graphical interface to click/drag points. Instead I want to convert my lists of floating point numbers to STL from the command line.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I thought this would be a trivial thing, but I cannot find what is the best tool for this. All I need, I think, is a pointer to what tools are most appropriate (although more detailed help will be appreciated :-)) I thought that &quot;gmsh&quot; might be good for this, but it is not immediately clear to me how to use it for that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would like the software for this to be &quot;free&quot;, in the sense that it does not cost money. Also, I am not a Windows user, so I would like to be able to run this under Linux or macOS.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19299" LastActivityDate="2019-12-02T20:05:36.880" Title="Convert ball-stick model to STL from the command line" Tags="|3d-models|3d-design|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11459" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-12-02T14:11:26.753" Score="3" ViewCount="6840" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been experimenting with FDM 3D printers and PLA for about a year now.&#xA;I'm at the point where I'd like to produce something considerably stronger than PLA, and was wondering if there is a &lt;em&gt;faux-pas&lt;/em&gt; list, or general instructions on how to coat PLA with epoxy resin, or even fibreglass/carbon fibre and resin to add strength and a surface to sand and paint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would have assumed that I'd need to coat the PLA object using a brush and epoxy resin, but I've also seen blogs where the epoxy mix has been heated enough to become liquid and then the PLA object was submerged in it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously the fibre coating would most likely have to take place manually by adding sheets, unless I decide to go for shredded fibres (which probably won't provide the strength I'm interested in).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has anyone tried it, or have a guide on how to do this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12688" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2019-12-02T17:22:08.883" LastActivityDate="2019-12-09T14:35:33.117" Title="overlaying epoxy resin on PLA" Tags="|pla|post-processing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11460" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-12-02T19:09:00.177" Score="3" ViewCount="3192" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Bigtreetech SKR v1.3, and I'm trying to connect a Raspberry Pi to the board using the RPi's GPIO pins as opposed to using a USB connection because space is limited within the case of CR10S Pro.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I watched &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Du0-Ka2srIg&amp;amp;lc&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; youtube video where he explains using the Z min and Z max endstops to connect to a RPi via the GPIO pins on a Raspberry Pi, and I've watched the video several times, but havent been able to get OctoPrint to connect to the SKR v1.3 board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a dedicated UART serial port on the board other than the USB port but I'm using that for the Bigtreetech tft35 v2 display so that is &lt;strong&gt;not&lt;/strong&gt; an option for connecting OctoPrint to the board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are 5 inputs on the board for stepper drives and the TMC2208 stepper drivers that I have installed operate over UART so I'm not opposed to using the extra stepper driver port on the board to communicate with the Pi if that is an option, but figuring out how to use the Z min plus the Z max pins to connect the Pi would be ideal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;board graphic pins&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/A19eE.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;SKR v1.3 pin-out&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/A19eE.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;skr-v13-pin-out&quot; title=&quot;SKR v1.3 pin-out&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17080" LastEditorUserId="4922" LastEditDate="2021-04-21T13:22:55.650" LastActivityDate="2021-04-21T13:22:55.650" Title="What UART port to use for RPi GPIO pins on an SKR v1.3 board" Tags="|marlin|raspberry-pi|skr-v1.3|bigtreetech|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11461" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11458" CreationDate="2019-12-02T20:05:36.880" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would suggest using OpenSCAD for this. OpenSCAD does not natively support reading data files that aren't 3D/2D models or images, but you can write a simple program to generate OpenSCAD code.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would suggest first writing an OpenSCAD file that implements your chosen type of &quot;ball&quot; and &quot;stick&quot;, perhaps like:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;module ball(x, y, z) {&#xA;    translate([x, y, z]) &#xA;        sphere(d=10, &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$fn=60);&#xA;}&#xA;module stick(x, y, z, length, rx, ry, rz) {&#xA;    translate([x, y, z]) &#xA;    rotate([rx, ry, rz]) &#xA;        cylinder(d=5, length=length, $&lt;/span&gt;fn=60, center=true);&#xA;}&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then, take your data file — let's suppose it's a CSV —&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;ball,0,0,0&#xA;ball,100,0,0&#xA;stick,50,0,0,100,0,90,0&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and convert it into OpenSCAD by adding the appropriate syntax (this could even be done using a basic find-and-replace tool):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;import &amp;lt;ball-and-stick-definitions.scad&amp;gt;&#xA;ball(0,0,0);&#xA;ball(100,0,0);&#xA;stick(50,0,0,100,0,90,0);&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then, producing the STL is just a matter of running the &lt;code&gt;openscad&lt;/code&gt; command on your generated OpenSCAD source code.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your stick parameters are not Euler angles but &quot;start point&quot; and &quot;end point&quot; you'll have to add the &quot;rotate to point at…&quot; math yourself, but that is within OpenSCAD's capabilities as it has vector math operations and &lt;code&gt;multmatrix&lt;/code&gt;, or trigonometry if you prefer to generate Euler angles; you don't need to do that math at the file-conversion stage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10321" LastActivityDate="2019-12-02T20:05:36.880" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11462" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11463" CreationDate="2019-12-02T21:44:23.470" Score="4" ViewCount="1438" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am using a Prusa printer to print parts for prototyping. The project I am currently working on needs parts to be able to slide against each other and they need to be printed together. A bit like these &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/01/gear.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;gears&lt;/a&gt;, where the whole construction needs to be printed in one go and the gears need to be free to move afterwards. What clearance should one use between such moving/sliding parts to make it snug but not unmovable?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16488" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2019-12-04T17:38:57.417" LastActivityDate="2019-12-04T17:38:57.417" Title="Clearance between moving parts" Tags="|print-quality|prusa-i3|linear-motion|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11463" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11462" CreationDate="2019-12-02T22:26:50.160" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Each printer will have different &quot;print in place&quot; tolerances, but you can find such a model with which to determine the numbers you seek.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One such item is on &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2375342&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Thingiverse&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FFNBq.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FFNBq.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;tolerance test model&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastActivityDate="2019-12-02T22:26:50.160" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11464" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11466" CreationDate="2019-12-03T01:01:40.070" Score="4" ViewCount="590" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm new to 3D printing. I've made some projects before just fine, but this project is giving me problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I 3D printed a trumpet mouthpiece, and the printer made supports inside the mouthpiece funnel. I can easily remove the exterior supports, but I don't know how to get to the supports inside. Does anyone know how I would do that?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/U6ys5.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/U6ys5.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Here&amp;#39;s one image.&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DJ9KP.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DJ9KP.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Here&amp;#39;s another.&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1539908&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Here is the link to the model&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8R11d.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8R11d.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19302" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-12-04T13:57:46.180" LastActivityDate="2019-12-05T13:18:32.997" Title="Removing Supports Inside Cone" Tags="|print-quality|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11465" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11464" CreationDate="2019-12-03T01:39:09.613" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Based on the photo provided, there's a strong possibility that you can print that model without internal supports. The angle of the walls falls within the limits of just about any FDM/FFF printer. An exception to this would be if you had a structure internal to the cone of the mouth piece which needed support. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;ERROR: I neglected to note that your print is created &quot;laying down&quot; rather than vertically. This certainly complicates the printing/support problem. I typically print cylinders without internal support, although it does result in a small amount of droopies within the cylinder. Those are easily cleared away as required and much more easily than a full support forest.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it impractical for you to consider to cut the model in half, print both segments, remove the supports more easily, then glue them together?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-12-03T17:28:49.573" LastActivityDate="2019-12-03T17:28:49.573" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11466" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11464" CreationDate="2019-12-03T01:51:17.860" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;That model didn’t need supports. Most of the time you can break the connections with the supports to the model by inserting a knife or flat object into the cavity. In this case you could use a probe to loosen the joins then wedge it out. If that doesn’t work you can use needle nose pliers to remove prices. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your best and cleanest option would be to reprint the mouthpiece without supports at all. Print it so that the wide section(the section touching your mouth) is on the buildplate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18867" LastActivityDate="2019-12-03T01:51:17.860" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11469" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11455" CreationDate="2019-12-03T19:59:54.877" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have seen this behavior a lot in CuraEngine slices. Mostly older versions of the slicer. Not sure if they actually improved it.&#xA;You could see this a lot in long and complicated forms. I also don't like this. Not only for unnecessary moves, but also for imperfections due the start in the middle. Sometimes you can tell where the filling started and which segments were printed separately.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think it comes down to several issues here:&#xA;1.) Starting from the middle saves a move at the beginning of the fill. It probably starts the fill where is stopped printing the perimeter. If the change you want would be implemented, a move after the fill printing would become necessary to start at the right position. So therefore the benefit of faster printing might be gone already.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2.) For the sclicer implementation it is hard to do. The algorithm that computes the print moves for the fill just knows the start point (end position of last perimeter line) and the points that define the area. It does not know if the area is round or square or shaped like a &quot;C&quot; or like a &quot;Y&quot;. Usually the slicers have a preferred direction that changes with every layer. This way the fill lines of different layers cross each other and that probably increases stability.&#xA;I have seen slices where the fill started several times in &quot;C&quot; shaped prints.&#xA;Also if you think about the &quot;Y&quot; shape. If you start at the bottom then you can print horizontal lines and fill the form until you reach the split. Now you have to decide which arm to print fist. And then you have to do the other arm separately.&#xA;As you can see a perfect way to fill all possible shapes in one go is impossible.&#xA;And defining an algorithm that can fill any shape with only knowing the outline is already hard. I assume the solution has to do with splitting a form into segments and to then fill each segment after the other. Even your example form has probably more sections than only the two obvious ones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What could be done would be to &quot;optimize&quot; the sequence used to fill the segments. Basically adding a computing step that checks if by introducing a move to the best starting point the fill of the segments could be done in one move.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Again that is probably rather hard to do, but CuraEngine and other slicers are open source, so if you or somebody else would like to invest some time to get this feature that would be great!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="204" LastActivityDate="2019-12-03T19:59:54.877" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11470" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-12-04T00:12:13.813" Score="4" ViewCount="23125" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've had issues with my hot end and decided to replace the whole assembly with &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.amazon.ca/Ewigkeit-Extruder-Printer-Assembled-Aluminum/dp/B07Q493RYW/ref=sr_1_4_sspa?keywords=hot%20end&amp;amp;qid=1574768751&amp;amp;sr=8-4-spons&amp;amp;psc=1&amp;amp;spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUFYVDRSMjVZRDU3QkMmZW5jcnlwdGVkSWQ9QTAwODExMTRZSzAwSjdZQzJJTzkmZW5jcnlwdGVkQWRJZD1BMDMxMzczNDNZWjNVUTRNNUU0MSZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2F0ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt;.  After the replacement, my printer started reading about 135/185&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C for the hot end and bed are both at room temperature. It also gives the &quot;Heating Failed&quot; error message. Printer halted when I tried to heat it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Things I've tried:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Checked the wiring, the thermistors are reading about 110k and 10k at end of the wires.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tried updating the firmware with a few different thermistor settings. Only the static (dummy) ones worked (reading a static value of 25/100&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tried with old thermistor and reading stayed at 135/185&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm suspecting something wrong with the motherboard but was hoping I could figure out what's wrong before going ahead and buying a new board. Would appreciate any thoughts/suggestions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In troubleshooting the issue, I tried disconnecting one/both of the thermistors at a time and the reading stayed unchanged. Now thinking I might've somehow broken the board when I was disassembling it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Upon receiving a new motherboard, that fixed the bed temperature reading. The hot end is now reading -14&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C with the thermistor plugged/unplugged. Took the resistances on the old and new hot end thermistors and couldn't get reading from either. So turned out both the stock motherboard and my hot end thermistors were not working. Ordered new thermistors and that should fix the problem. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19255" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2020-01-20T13:13:59.313" LastActivityDate="2022-09-02T02:28:54.423" Title="Ender 3 displaying wrong temperatures for hotend and bed" Tags="|creality-ender-3|heated-bed|troubleshooting|thermistor|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11472" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-12-04T14:54:20.437" Score="1" ViewCount="1377" Body="&lt;p&gt;The heated bed output on my printer recently stopped working. I have an output for a second hotend. How can I reprogram this output as a heated bed output? The board is a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.geeetech.com/wiki/index.php/GT2560&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Geeetech GT2560 rev A+&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19321" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-12-04T22:28:27.033" LastActivityDate="2019-12-05T15:29:37.860" Title="How to use second hotend for bed heating?" Tags="|heated-bed|reprap|geeetech|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11473" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11450" CreationDate="2019-12-04T15:32:12.133" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;A new day, a new nozzle, an old result!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nGdyx.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nGdyx.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Success&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;EDIT&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The success was a one off. The problem remains!&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Heat on the heated bed seems to differ a lot in different areas. Just using my hands to feel it since I have no IR-camera.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19284" LastEditorUserId="19284" LastEditDate="2020-01-04T16:29:02.990" LastActivityDate="2020-01-04T16:29:02.990" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11474" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11472" CreationDate="2019-12-04T15:35:58.313" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you want to use Extruder heater and thermistor 2 as a hotbed driver, then you will need to get an external mosfet, since I doubt that the extruder heater mosfet will be able to handle the required current. Then in your slicer, just remap the bed from BED to E2&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12857" LastActivityDate="2019-12-04T15:35:58.313" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11475" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-12-05T01:25:09.703" Score="3" ViewCount="7670" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know of an easy and free way to convert my STL models to a PDF drawing for CAD and metal CNC machining?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've created some great designs that are all STL files and want to somehow send them to a CNC/milling machine to make my designs in metal parts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19324" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-12-05T06:03:10.027" LastActivityDate="2019-12-09T08:19:23.503" Title="How can I convert STL files into PDF drawings?" Tags="|3d-design|stl|cad|file-formats|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11476" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11475" CreationDate="2019-12-05T01:44:15.700" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've had good results with using the free web-based program known as &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.onshape.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Onshape&lt;/a&gt; which allows you to import/create 3D models. One of the features built into Onshape is a drawing tab. You can select the views desired or use a standard layout, as well as add dimensions to the individual drawing views.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EnQlH.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Onshape image example&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EnQlH.png&quot; alt=&quot;Onshape image example&quot; title=&quot;Onshape image example&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This image above was of a model created in and exported from Tinkercad. No dimensions have been added in this example, but it's available as part of the software. Being browser based, the program will work for any platform.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In order to make this answer more accurate, I attempted to duplicate the results shown in the drawing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've discovered that I used Fusion 360 to import the STL. The next step involved turning off history feature, then converting the STL to BREP. Once in BREP form, the no-longer-STL file can be exported as .step, which is accepted by Onshape.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fusion 360 is a free-to-hobbyists program, but does not run in a browser. There may be other programs which will convert STL to .step and there may even be a browser converter-specific site to accomplish this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I recognize that this is a convoluted solution, but it's not particularly burdensome, overall.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2019-12-09T08:19:23.503" LastActivityDate="2019-12-09T08:19:23.503" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11481" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11472" CreationDate="2019-12-05T12:43:49.263" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Although it appears to be a RAMPS compatible board as described in &lt;a href=&quot;/a/11477&quot;&gt;this &lt;strong&gt;now deleted&lt;/strong&gt; answer&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;strong&gt;it is not using a RAMPS pin configuration&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/em&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To fix this in the firmware, this requires an upload of newly configured firmware to the board. See e.g. question: &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;/q/5848&quot;&gt;How to upload firmware to reprap printer?&lt;/a&gt;&quot;. For Marlin firmware (which is also loaded at the factory) You need to assign the correct board number or constant name (amongst several other things) in the &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/blob/2.0.x/Marlin/Configuration.h&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Configuration.h&lt;/a&gt; file. Note that this is &quot;clearly&quot; described by the manufacturer &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.geeetech.com/wiki/index.php/GT2560A/GT2560A%2B&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From factory, a version of 1.1.X is loaded note that version 1.1.9 is the last of the 1.x branch, the default is now version 2.x.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.geeetech.com/wiki/index.php/GT2560&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;manufacturer of your board&lt;/a&gt; you find that:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#define MOTHERBOARD 7&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;needs to be set. Note that using number is old, nowadays you would use a constant. For board number &lt;code&gt;7&lt;/code&gt; this is the constant defined as &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/blob/2.0.x/Marlin/src/core/boards.h#L73&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;code&gt;BOARD_ULTIMAKER&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/a&gt;. Note that in version 2.x this number is now 1117, so the preferred usage is the constant name &lt;code&gt;BOARD_ULTIMAKER&lt;/code&gt;!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Specifically for your board, the Configuration.h file should contain:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&#xA;#ifndef MOTHERBOARD&#xA;  #define MOTHERBOARD BOARD_ULTIMAKER&#xA;#endif&#xA;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The pin arrangement used by this board is found in &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/blob/2.0.x/Marlin/src/pins/ramps/pins_ULTIMAKER.h&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;code&gt;pins_ULTIMAKER.h&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this pin file you need to swap the pin numbers that identify the bed and the second extruder (&lt;code&gt;E1&lt;/code&gt;) thermistor pin. In this file change:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&#xA;//&#xA;// Heaters / Fans&#xA;//&#xA;#define HEATER_0_PIN        2&#xA;#define HEATER_1_PIN        3&#xA;#define HEATER_BED_PIN      4&#xA;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;to: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&#xA;//&#xA;// Heaters / Fans&#xA;//&#xA;#define HEATER_0_PIN        2&#xA;#define HEATER_1_PIN        4 // or -1&#xA;#define HEATER_BED_PIN      3&#xA;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that it could be that the &lt;code&gt;E1&lt;/code&gt; heater output may not be designed to take the high current load the bed requires (depends on the traces on the board and the used MOSFET; with respect to the MOSFET, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.geeetech.com/wiki/index.php/GT2560A/GT2560A%2B&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;the manufacturer states&lt;/a&gt; that:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;3 55Amp MOSFET (with LED indicator, the actual output is restricted by the PCB board and the connector), all 3 MOSFET are equipped with heat sink to ensure sufficient heat dissipation and stable operation&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;, implying that the MOSFETs are identical). It is therefore advised to use an external MOSFET module. This will keep the high currents away from your printer board. Such a module looks like:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aMcjA.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aMcjA.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;MOSFET module&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You need to wire the second extruder heater leads to the white cable, the power and the bed leads use screw terminals and are clearly labeled.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-12-05T15:29:37.860" LastActivityDate="2019-12-05T15:29:37.860" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11482" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11464" CreationDate="2019-12-05T13:18:32.997" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&amp;quot;Don't use supports&amp;quot;&amp;lt;-- that is the best  answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Warning&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sadly, if you print vertically, you end up with an extremely fragile piece -it'll snap between layers.  The OP properly printed horizontally for strength, and possibly by using a very &amp;quot;thin&amp;quot; layer height he can get by without supports.  That's the only way to succeed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I guess I should state that this answer assumes you want to use the print in a trumpet.  If it's purely for decoration, then definitely print vertically.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2191" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:29:41.667" LastActivityDate="2019-12-05T13:18:32.997" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11483" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-12-05T23:43:39.557" Score="3" ViewCount="587" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an Anet A6, where I uploaded Marlin 1.1.9, because the manual filament change on the stock firmware was really bad (90&amp;nbsp;% of the times it clogged the hotend). I've tweaked it a bit, and I'd say it works fine, but I have a problem with my filaments.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm printing in ABS. I want to make a 3&amp;nbsp;mm black plate, with an orange text/image on top of it. I've been playing with a test print and I can't seem to fix one thing. I swap the filaments and purge the nozzle, but no matter how much I purge, the orange filament keeps getting dark form some remnants of the black one. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a sample of the original orange filament and different attempts with filament swap during print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9K3Q2.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9K3Q2.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;print sample&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The orange has a recommended print temp. of 240-255&amp;nbsp;°C while for the black one its 230-250&amp;nbsp;°C. I've tried purging the hotend at different temperatures (240&amp;nbsp;°C, 250&amp;nbsp;°C) and I've been purging ridiculous amounts (like 1 meter). At the point where the filament looked clean I've resumed the print and it still came out dark. The continuous purging didn't clean everything and the extrusions and retractions during printing probably scooped out more of the black filament.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Have you ever encountered such a problem? Any tips of effective purging?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the record: Other mods to the printer include frames to make the body more rigid, tensioners, and similar - nothing of importance. I did however change the hotend to an E3D V6 look-alike with a silicon shroud and nozzles to match, but this was waaaay back. I've never had problems with either of these filaments when printing single-colored things.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19335" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-12-06T15:29:17.320" LastActivityDate="2019-12-06T15:29:17.320" Title="Filament change (M600) causes color mixing despite excessive purge" Tags="|marlin|abs|anet-a6|multi-material|change-filament|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11484" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-12-06T08:37:35.970" Score="1" ViewCount="185" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am trying to make a 3D printer (Prusa i3 model). I was testing all steppers and all steppers are working, however the Mk8 extruder (direct drive) is not working and I don’t know why. Can someone help me?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19339" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-12-06T11:08:15.403" LastActivityDate="2023-12-15T22:04:25.557" Title="Question about the MK8 Extruder" Tags="|extruder|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11485" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11484" CreationDate="2019-12-06T11:01:19.867" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It’s either because you haven’t connected it properly or you have not  mounted it the correct way. This could lead to the damaging of the part and failure to work again. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check your connections with the stepper motors and hotend power wires. Make sure the connectors are in fine condition and cords are not frayed. Ensure all power is completely off and mains cable is unplugged.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18867" LastActivityDate="2019-12-06T11:01:19.867" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11486" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-12-06T14:32:10.510" Score="1" ViewCount="74" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got a class with access to a few Replicator+s. Makerbot's official site gives a build volume of 11.6 x 7.6 x 6.5 &quot;. (LxWxH)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Out of curiosity (I'm not intending to print it), I created a 11.6 x 7.6 x 6.5 inch rectangular prism and placed it in the build plate in the Makerbot software. It didn't like that, so I scaled it back to 11.5 x 7.5 x 6.4 inches to fit inside the build volume. &#xA;It accepted that, and I could click the generate preview button, but then it got stuck 50% of the way through generating the preview and toolpath. I'm guessing that the extruder can't &lt;em&gt;actually&lt;/em&gt; reach all of the build volume and so it can't generate a toolpath to create this monstrosity. Does anyone know the actual volume that it can reach and actually utilize?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19340" LastActivityDate="2019-12-06T14:46:41.407" Title="Usable build volume of a Makerbot Replicator Plus?" Tags="|makerbot|replicator+|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11487" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11486" CreationDate="2019-12-06T14:46:41.407" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Exactly what software are you using to slice?  From your description, it appears the gcode was successfully generated, but the software choked when trying to draw teh preview image. That could be due to lack of local RAM or problems with memory leaks in the software.  This happens when the number of layers and the complexity of the layers gets large. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Try just creating a plain rectangular solid and set a large layer height.  Let us know what happens with that. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2191" LastActivityDate="2019-12-06T14:46:41.407" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11488" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-12-06T16:44:25.270" Score="1" ViewCount="130" Body="&lt;p&gt;Long story, but I inherited a friend's old experimental Replicator project (version 1, balsa frame), which included a bunch of Makerbot EC3 extruder controllers.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After scrounging around the net for old documentation, I found a few threads suggesting these things can be reprogrammed. I'm on a budget, and the ability to control high-current applications straight from an Arduino interface would be pretty neat. Once firmware exists, there's a procedure to flash it, but I'm interested in something a little more straightforward. Someone in the forums said that these can be programmed from the Arduino IDE (as the boards are Arduino derivatives), but I haven't found any official documentation on the subject. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(1) Does anyone know if it's possible to reprogram these straight from the Arduino IDE? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(2) Is there a known conversion between board pins and extruder controller pins? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Links I found: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[1] &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/makerbot/G3Firmware&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://github.com/makerbot/G3Firmware&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[2] &lt;a href=&quot;http://makerbot.wikidot.com/ec36-firmware-installation&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://makerbot.wikidot.com/ec36-firmware-installation&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[3] &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.reprap.me/makerbot-extruder.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.reprap.me/makerbot-extruder.html&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[4] &lt;a href=&quot;http://web.archive.org/web/20110905083750/http://wiki.makerbot.com/thingomatic-doc:extruder-controller-3-6&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://web.archive.org/web/20110905083750/http://wiki.makerbot.com/thingomatic-doc:extruder-controller-3-6&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[5] &lt;a href=&quot;http://makerbot.wikidot.com/forum/t-367035/flashing-extruder-controller-3-6&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://makerbot.wikidot.com/forum/t-367035/flashing-extruder-controller-3-6&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19342" LastActivityDate="2019-12-06T16:44:25.270" Title="Reprogramming Makerbot Extruder Controller 3.6 with Arduino toolchain?" Tags="|extruder|makerbot|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11489" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-12-06T17:31:59.570" Score="1" ViewCount="1299" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've bought a new type of filament (GreenTEC Pro Natural) for my Anycubic Mega i3 to print some food-safe cookie cutters. Now I have changed the print settings to an extruder temperature of 210&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C and a heated bed temperture of 60&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C and everything works well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But when I look at the print, I see that too little filament is extruded at the beginning of an extrusion and at the end. So every time the nozzle is lifted to move without extruding, it takes too long for the filament to correctly start extruding again (see picture). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HUztR.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HUztR.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What can I do? Is there a setting to print slower at these points (I'm currently using Cura)? Maybe change retraction distance? Different extrusion temp? Before I used PLA from Anycubic and everything worked fine...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19344" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-12-07T05:24:22.327" LastActivityDate="2022-09-24T03:02:00.207" Title="Printer extrudes too little filament at beginning and end of extrusion" Tags="|print-quality|filament|quality|underextrusion|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11490" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11150" CreationDate="2019-12-06T19:33:01.197" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is a common  problem with &quot;delta&quot;-style circular parallel kinematics machines.  It is called Bowling.  It can lead to the presumed Z=0 plane having a bowl-like shape.  The actual error shape can be more complex.  The job of &quot;bed-leveling&quot; is to make the realized z=0 plane to be identical with the bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can, use a multi-point (like 40+ points) interpolation.  It builds an error map, and adjusts every point based on that map.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2082" LastActivityDate="2019-12-06T19:33:01.197" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11492" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-12-07T23:23:23.073" Score="4" ViewCount="4500" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm designing a mount for a cylindrical speaker to attach to my bicycle. It will mount on the bottle cages. I've printed a few iterations with various infill settings (using PLA) and the weak point is always the bolts holding the entire mount to the bike. They can't handle the compression needed to secure it properly. I had thought about using an imbedded metal part to distribute the load, but it's not easily replicable and I want to make the design public and fairly accessible to others with the same speaker. I currently have PETG and ABS, would one of those perform better or should I order a specialty high strength polymer? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19354" LastActivityDate="2022-05-11T02:22:10.740" Title="Best material for compression?" Tags="|material|print-strength|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11493" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11492" CreationDate="2019-12-08T02:19:32.103" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Try heating op your PLA while mounting it. The PLA wil temporarily weaken and will become a bit moldable. PETG is a bit more brittle than PLA is my experience so I'd say stick to PLA. Otherwise you might try Arnitel ECO. I can try to find an amazon purchase link for you if you want. Anyway, it is more rubber like and stays flexible, it will never crack but depending on your design it might become a bit more wobbly. If you share a picture of your design or an STL i might be able to help you a bit better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19290" LastActivityDate="2019-12-08T02:19:32.103" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11494" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11442" CreationDate="2019-12-08T03:55:09.683" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Thus question is very close to being out of the scope of the questions encouraged on the 3D Printing SE site,  but you have worked closely with Trish and Oscar to make it into less of a &quot;recommend&quot; question and more of a &quot;how might I choose&quot; question &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What to look for in a 3D scanner?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You mentioned using the scanner for quality control.  Lets start with that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The best way I know to do optical quality control is to image each layer after deposition rather than viewing the completed object.   Especially for printing engineered objects,  like rocket fuel pumps and jet turbine blades,  it is important to be able to see inside the object and detect voids, bad adhesion, and points of unexpected stress.  That is hard to do with the full object,  and easier to do layer by layer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But this may not be the QA requirement  you are trying to meet.  Maybe the gross object appearance is what you are controlling for. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If so,  you need to define what is good enough and what is a failure.  With those criteria,  you can see which scanners give you that discernment. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suspect that won't be far off the requirements for the &quot;reverse engineering&quot; you also intend. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Another criteria is the software&lt;/strong&gt;.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's the workflow simple,  or can it be made simple?  20 clicks through detailed menus which must be done correctly and in sequence is not easy to get right twice a week when you need out. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Consider the color of the illumination&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Be sure it will not interact badly with your objects.   A red laser does not scan well a red object. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;More is more, not necessarily better&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Higher resolution is great if you have three I/O channels to support it,  the disk space to store it, the RAM to hold it,  and the processing power to absorbable it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2082" LastActivityDate="2019-12-08T03:55:09.683" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11495" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-12-08T10:02:16.170" Score="4" ViewCount="2505" Body="&lt;p&gt;Currently I have a model of a fingertip finished in my project, however, I would like to create some sort of &quot;cap&quot; that if printed would fit on top of that finger. Is there a good way to achieve this in meshmixer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19356" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2019-12-08T11:33:59.973" LastActivityDate="2019-12-08T11:33:59.973" Title="Efficient way to create a &quot;mold&quot; of a solid object in Meshmixer?" Tags="|3d-models|3d-design|stl|molds|meshmixer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11496" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11495" CreationDate="2019-12-08T11:33:22.700" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Surely! First of all, a mold is, simply put, the negative of the item. So we need to make such a negative and give it some thickness. I have this funnel model...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zcLbd.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zcLbd.png&quot; alt=&quot;A simple Funnel&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We start Meshmixer, import our funnel and then go into &lt;code&gt;Meshmix&lt;/code&gt; and pull a cylinder into the frame. We size and align it to hide the funnel but for a tiny part at the top (or however much you need to have covered in the mold)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NxbZ0.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NxbZ0.png&quot; alt=&quot;Funnel (light) in the Cylinder (dark)&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We click the cylinder, press &lt;code&gt;SHIFT&lt;/code&gt; and the funnel top. In the top corner a menu pops up:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/w45Wo.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/w45Wo.png&quot; alt=&quot;Combine Menu&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We choose &quot;Boolean Difference&quot;, the menu changes to show this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ppJRn.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ppJRn.png&quot; alt=&quot;just after pressing the button...&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next we alter the &lt;code&gt;Target Edge Scale&lt;/code&gt; till we see the top corner (0.6 seems to work) then accept. The result is this mold: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CJ0B7.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CJ0B7.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/36MTa.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/36MTa.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But that's a REALLY snug fit at this moment. 0.0 mm space. We can use that to cast our funnel... but we might want to make this a box for our funnel or we know that our casting material shrinks some 4 to 5 % when curing. So we need some space in the mold or box. So we need to shift the faces some. What happens to holes if we scale the whole thing up by... say 5 %? They become 5 % larger of course! So let's just do that! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;code&gt;Edit&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;code&gt;Transform&lt;/code&gt; &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;hook &lt;code&gt;Uniform Scaling&lt;/code&gt; &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;pull X, Y and Z out by 1 mm (which happens to be 4 % in case of a 25 mm item.)&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use those square boxes marked with green dots to pull&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Til4w.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Til4w.png&quot; alt=&quot;Transformation window&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Accept and... DONE! Last to do: export as STL and here you go! a Mold that is 4% larger and could be a cap for the funnel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastActivityDate="2019-12-08T11:33:22.700" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11497" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11636" CreationDate="2019-12-08T11:33:57.167" Score="3" ViewCount="119" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just starting with octoprint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Bought a pi3A+,&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Etched a 4Go micro sd card with the latest octopi distro (0.17.0)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Using a 5V bench power supply that delivers up to 10A.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Following &lt;a href=&quot;https://octoprint.org/download/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;official octopi instructions&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I managed to connect once my pi to the wifi, configured it, but as soon as I reboot my pi, it won't connect to the wifi again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any hints?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Nothing helped me in the &lt;a href=&quot;https://community.octoprint.org/t/wifi-setup-and-troubleshooting/184&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;wifi troobleshooting FAQ&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I thought that I changed a particular config but :&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;without configuration change, I:&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;started the pi once&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;waited until the pi connects to the wifi&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;successfully pinged the pi via my PC&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;rebooted the pi&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a new ping wouldn't work &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I compared the files on the boot partition and only this changed:&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;freshly etched sd card:&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;cmdline.txt:&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;code&gt;console=serial0,115200 console=tty1 root=PARTUUID=6c586e13-02 rootfstype=ext4 elevator=deadline fsck.repair=yes rootwait quiet init=/usr/lib/raspi-config/init_resize.sh&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;card from rebooted device:&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;cmdline.txt:&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;code&gt;console=serial0,115200 console=tty1 root=PARTUUID=6c586e13-02 rootfstype=ext4 elevator=deadline fsck.repair=yes rootwait&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;there is no more differences.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19359" LastEditorUserId="19359" LastEditDate="2019-12-09T14:06:16.107" LastActivityDate="2019-12-29T16:59:39.130" Title="Octopi connecting just once to wifi" Tags="|octoprint|wi-fi|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11498" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11489" CreationDate="2019-12-08T17:50:45.047" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think there's a retraction issue(had the same issue). You need to change retraction and check whether there are any improvements. Some times different filament types need slight filament setting calibration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16256" LastActivityDate="2019-12-08T17:50:45.047" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11499" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10038" CreationDate="2019-12-08T18:03:09.487" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think You need to re-calibrate Z steps. Sometimes Marlin default z-steps/mm won't fit for 3D printer, because it depends on the hardware(z-axis threaded rod) that used to build the 3D printer. Check whether the Z-axis moves the distance that you command it to move. (ex: command to move x distance and check whether it moves the commanded distance)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16256" LastActivityDate="2019-12-08T18:03:09.487" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11500" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4166" CreationDate="2019-12-08T18:16:47.410" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It seems your printing temperature is too high. If there's a tiny space between the nozzle and the Teflon tube, high printing temperature will lead to a partial clog. And this will lead to under extrusion. Try lowering printing temperatures and printing speed. And also check whether there's a gap between the Teflon tube and the nozzle. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16256" LastActivityDate="2019-12-08T18:16:47.410" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11501" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-12-09T04:54:51.503" Score="4" ViewCount="1249" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to make a project involving many small dots indents and I would like to know how I can calculate the smallest dot hole the Prusa i3 MK3S can extrude around on a layer using PLA. In other words, if I printer a mesh with circle shaped holes, how would I know the minimum diameter of the holes. Is it simply the same as the layer resolution (0.35&amp;nbsp;mm), filament size (1.75&amp;nbsp;mm), or is it something else?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18877" LastEditorUserId="18877" LastEditDate="2019-12-09T21:29:30.043" LastActivityDate="2019-12-11T18:25:08.997" Title="Smallest dot/dot indent for Prusa MK3S using PLA" Tags="|prusa-i3|pla|resolution|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11502" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11501" CreationDate="2019-12-09T05:39:56.317" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;That depends on the ability how fast you get filament to stick to the build plate and whether the filament is loaded in the extruder. It also matters which size of nozzle you are using. The filament diameter has no influence other than smaller filament width (e.g. 1.75&amp;nbsp;mm) requires more length to extrude with respect to thicker filament (e.g 2.85 or 3.0&amp;nbsp;mm), and is therefore more precise to lay down (on the other side is the deviation on the filament diameter, i.e. manufacturing tolerance, larger than for thicker filament...).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it does not stick you need more length, also, if the filament is not preloaded enough, the nozzle chamber needs to be filled first. Note that the printing of several small circles is a challenge, see e.g. &lt;a href=&quot;/q/8709&quot;&gt;&quot;How do I get circles on small interior holes to adhere to the bed?&quot;&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-12-09T12:45:56.490" LastActivityDate="2019-12-09T12:45:56.490" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11503" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-12-09T13:05:32.623" Score="2" ViewCount="582" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a TEVO Tarantula printer, recently I have upgraded it's firmware from the stock firmware to marlin 2.0 using &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/JimBrown/MarlinTarantula&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; configuration repo.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since upgrading my prints take 2x the time they used to (and the time Cura says they should take). I have tried to increase the printer's acceleration and jerk maximum configuration, but it did not help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition, another symptom that is new is that whenever a straight line is printed (for example an infill line) instead of the motors moving in one swift motion, I can see (and better yet, hear) them moving in a different speed. Specifically, it looks like the motors slow down midway and start again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I address those issues?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13286" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-12-09T14:46:52.463" LastActivityDate="2019-12-09T14:57:41.730" Title="Printing 2x slower after upgrading to &quot;MarlinTarantula&quot; firmware" Tags="|marlin|tevo-tarantula|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11504" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11503" CreationDate="2019-12-09T14:01:47.453" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;First, Ultimaker Cura estimated printing times are not necessarily accurate for non Ultimaker printers. For Ultimaker printers this is perfectly tuned, Cura estimates the printing times from experience for the UM3E correctly. Please look into question &lt;a href=&quot;/q/5778&quot;&gt;&quot;How to determine real printing speed (tarantula/cura)?&quot;&lt;/a&gt; which is relevant to this question and has an interesting &lt;a href=&quot;/a/5780/5&quot;&gt;accepted answer&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second, changing the MAX accelerations will not work, you should increase the default acceleration:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the TEVO Tarantula Marlin fork you read from the &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/JimBrown/MarlinTarantula/blob/EasyConfig-2.0.x/Marlin/Configuration.h#L1083&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Configuration.h&lt;/a&gt; file:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&#xA;/**&#xA; * Default Acceleration (change/s) change = mm/s&#xA; * Override with M204&#xA; *&#xA; *   M204 P    Acceleration&#xA; *   M204 R    Retract Acceleration&#xA; *   M204 T    Travel Acceleration&#xA; */&#xA;#define DEFAULT_ACCELERATION          1000    // X, Y, Z and E acceleration for printing moves&#xA;#define DEFAULT_RETRACT_ACCELERATION  2000    // E acceleration for retracts&#xA;#define DEFAULT_TRAVEL_ACCELERATION   3000    // X, Y, Z acceleration for travel (non printing) moves&#xA;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/blob/1.1.x/Marlin/Configuration.h#L636&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;main Marlin source&lt;/a&gt; you will find:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&#xA;/**&#xA; * Default Acceleration (change/s) change = mm/s&#xA; * Override with M204&#xA; *&#xA; *   M204 P    Acceleration&#xA; *   M204 R    Retract Acceleration&#xA; *   M204 T    Travel Acceleration&#xA; */&#xA;#define DEFAULT_ACCELERATION          3000    // X, Y, Z and E acceleration for printing moves&#xA;#define DEFAULT_RETRACT_ACCELERATION  3000    // E acceleration for retracts&#xA;#define DEFAULT_TRAVEL_ACCELERATION   3000    // X, Y, Z acceleration for travel (non printing) moves&#xA;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The TEVO Tarantula sources have lower default acceleration values, you could try to increase those.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-12-09T14:57:41.730" LastActivityDate="2019-12-09T14:57:41.730" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11505" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11501" CreationDate="2019-12-09T14:08:17.077" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Let's look at how small we can print, shall we? Well, we have this filament, it gets pressed into the chamber, melts and then moves out a small orifice. So the first thing that limits print minimum is &lt;strong&gt;nozzle diameter&lt;/strong&gt;, which correlates with the &lt;strong&gt;extrusion width&lt;/strong&gt; - usually, I use a factor of 1.1 nozzles for the extrusion width.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next factor is the bed or &lt;strong&gt;surface&lt;/strong&gt; you're printing on which correlates with the &lt;strong&gt;Print material&lt;/strong&gt;: some surfaces literally love to take your filament and allow your printer to extrude just a dot, then lift up like PLA onto a well-prepared surface. Others REALLY don't want to stick, demanding you to extrude more, which means you need to draw a circle (POM). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A lesser factor is the &lt;strong&gt;print temperature&lt;/strong&gt;, which changes how vicious the filament is and how well you have dialed in your retraction, which determines how much of a &quot;dead&quot; move you have to have on the extruder to get the filament to extrude between dots.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastActivityDate="2019-12-09T14:08:17.077" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11506" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11459" CreationDate="2019-12-09T14:35:33.117" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have used Styrol based Polyester resins on prints and they created the usual stench as well as a surefire bond and it is easily useable with unstructured fiberglass, as that fiberglass has usually a binder that will react with the styrol and bond the mat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Epoxy resins also bond nicely to PLA and don't have the styrol smell, but they are not bonding that nicely to normal fiberglass, you want to use them with fiberglass weave.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Either resin is a quite viscous fluid. When you cast a flat surface, it will try to smooth out to a good degree under gravity. When coating a curved surface, you should make sure to align it in way that the lowest point is either the top of the dome or the lower edge, so it settles equally. You can aid in this process by providing heat as this will lower viscosity. An airstream will also aid as it presses onto the surface helping to smooth out unevenness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastActivityDate="2019-12-09T14:35:33.117" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11507" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11501" CreationDate="2019-12-09T14:39:03.960" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is no direct limit on the size of a hole in XY-plane (that means: oriented so that the hole is visible from above).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The movement accuracy of MK3S (and most other modern 3D printers) is about 0.01 mm. So theoretically you could move around a circle that has diameter of the (default) 0.4 mm extrusion width + 0.01 mm, and get a 0.01 mm hole in the middle of the circle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In practice, the hole size will be limited by the repeatability of the extrusion width. If in the above example the extrusion width happens to be 0.41 mm instead, there would be no hole remaining.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On a well calibrated printer, 1/4th of the nozzle size should be manageable, i.e. for MK3S you should be able to get 0.1 mm holes quite reliably.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16776" LastEditorUserId="16776" LastEditDate="2019-12-09T16:22:00.920" LastActivityDate="2019-12-09T16:22:00.920" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11508" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11278" CreationDate="2019-12-10T05:46:10.627" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;From experience, my PEI sheet did not stay flat after multiple use, this may be causing the problems you are facing. It could be the adhesive is failing on different locations. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you mention, a new sheet of PEI may work for you; indeed the glass will not be necessary then, glueing it directly onto the aluminium bed would be enough provided that the metal bed is straight. Note that glass is straight as a result of the production process to make glass, so this can always be used. To remove the PEI sheet, a sticky glue residue is left behind on the build plate, please read &lt;a href=&quot;/q/7960&quot;&gt;&quot;How to clean up my build plate for a new build surface?&quot;&lt;/a&gt; for more information. It is probably easier to remove glue residue from the glass than from the heated bed as that is usually bolted and wired to the printer, but a wet cloth works fine. Personally, I print on glass or directly on the heated bed using an adhesion spray. You do not require the use of a PEI sheet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Note that printing PETG filament is not recommended without glue stick or any other bonding agent like hairspray. This is not to get it to stick, but to get the print loose from the build plate, PETG fuses to PEI...&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-01-09T19:29:57.983" LastActivityDate="2020-01-09T19:29:57.983" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11509" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2019-12-10T06:43:42.180" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=13860&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Monoprice Maker Select&lt;/a&gt; 3D Printer is a starter solution. Unlike kit-based printers, which require a certain level of knowledge, experience, and time to assemble, this 3D Printer is assembled using only 6 screws and includes everything you need to begin printing right out of the box. It has the ability to print many types of 3D filament.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-12-10T08:25:52.207" LastActivityDate="2019-12-10T08:25:52.207" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11510" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2019-12-10T06:43:42.180" Score="0" Body="Questions using this tag should involve a 3D printer that is manufactured by Monoprice and branded by the name Maker Select 3D Printer v1/v2." OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-12-10T08:31:46.663" LastActivityDate="2019-12-10T08:31:46.663" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11511" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2019-12-10T08:34:34.427" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=15365&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;This cantilever, low price, printer design&lt;/a&gt; not only comes fully assembled, it has already been calibrated at the factory. All you have to do is perform a quick check to verify that the print bed is still leveled,  then load a model from the included micro SD card, load some filament, and start printing the loaded model.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-12-10T08:34:34.427" LastActivityDate="2019-12-10T08:34:34.427" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11512" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2019-12-10T08:34:34.427" Score="0" Body="Questions using this tag should involve a 3D printer that is manufactured by Monoprice and branded by the name MP Select Mini 3D Printer v1/v2/pro." OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-12-10T08:34:34.427" LastActivityDate="2019-12-10T08:34:34.427" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11513" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2019-12-10T08:40:57.873" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=15710&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Maker Ultimate 3D Printer&lt;/a&gt; is a rigid all-metal (box) frame design which results in a stable print platform. This allows for print speeds up to 150 mm/sec. The printer has a heated build plate and can therefore print PLA, ABS, PVA, HIPS, and other popular filament types. It can print G-code files from a computer (multiple platforms are supported) using a USB connection or from an SD card. The printer has a low operating noise footprint of less than 49&amp;nbsp;dBA.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-12-10T08:40:57.873" LastActivityDate="2019-12-10T08:40:57.873" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11514" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2019-12-10T08:40:57.873" Score="0" Body="Questions using this tag should involve a 3D printer that is manufactured by Monoprice and branded by the name Maker Ultimate 3D Printer." OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-12-10T08:40:57.873" LastActivityDate="2019-12-10T08:40:57.873" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11515" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2019-12-10T08:42:52.207" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Built upon the design of the Maker Select 3D Printer, the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=15711&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Maker Select Plus 3D Printer&lt;/a&gt; now features a unified design with an integrated control box and a smaller footprint. Like the previous models, the Maker Select 3D Printer features a large 7.9&quot; x 7.9&quot; x 7.1&quot; build area, but with a 50&amp;nbsp;% faster print speed. The LCD menu system has been upgraded to a large 3.25&quot; touch screen system, with a simpler and easier to use design with on-the-fly print tuning options. The improved Anti-Jam MK10 extruder features a 0.4&amp;nbsp;mm nozzle diameter and 100 micron layer resolution, allowing you to create smooth, high quality prints.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-12-10T08:42:52.207" LastActivityDate="2019-12-10T08:42:52.207" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11516" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2019-12-10T08:42:52.207" Score="0" Body="Questions using this tag should involve a 3D printer that is manufactured by Monoprice and branded by the name Maker Select Plus 3D Printer." OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-12-10T08:42:52.207" LastActivityDate="2019-12-10T08:42:52.207" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11517" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2019-12-10T08:46:51.880" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=21666&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;MP Mini Delta 3D Printer&lt;/a&gt; is a delta 3D Printer on the lowest-price end. It has a steel frame wrapped in black anodized aluminum shell. The delta design style continuously self-calibrates, so you will never have to struggle with bed leveling. The print bed and extrusion nozzle heat to a wide range of temperatures, allowing you to print with different materials.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-08-25T08:37:07.940" LastActivityDate="2021-08-25T08:37:07.940" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11518" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2019-12-10T08:46:51.880" Score="0" Body="Questions using this tag should involve a 3D printer that is manufactured by Monoprice and branded by the name MP Mini Delta 3D Printer." OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-12-10T08:46:51.880" LastActivityDate="2019-12-10T08:46:51.880" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11519" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2019-12-10T08:51:36.160" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.cnet.com/reviews/monoprice-dual-extrusion-3d-printer-review/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Monoprice Dual Extrusion 3D Printer&lt;/a&gt; is a 90&amp;nbsp;% assembled printer that has dual extruders/nozzles. It's among the most affordable of dual-extruder 3D printers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-12-10T08:51:36.160" LastActivityDate="2019-12-10T08:51:36.160" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11520" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2019-12-10T08:51:36.160" Score="0" Body="Questions using this tag should involve a 3D printer that is manufactured by Monoprice and branded by the name Dual Extrusion 3D Printer." OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-12-10T08:51:36.160" LastActivityDate="2019-12-10T08:51:36.160" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11521" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2019-12-10T08:56:26.390" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;This printer features a single extruder and unheated glass build platform. Because the platform is unheated, it is particularly suited for printing using PLA filament, though it can print other materials, as well (e.g. PETG). You can print from an external computer using a USB connection or can print from 3D model files placed/stored on an SD card without the need for a PC connection of any kind. This printer is easy to set up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-12-10T08:56:26.390" LastActivityDate="2019-12-10T08:56:26.390" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11522" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2019-12-10T08:56:26.390" Score="0" Body="Questions using this tag should involve a 3D printer that is manufactured by Monoprice and branded by the name Maker Architect 3D Printer." OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-12-10T08:56:26.390" LastActivityDate="2019-12-10T08:56:26.390" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11523" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7852" CreationDate="2019-12-10T09:05:44.723" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If your printer's heated bed still works, but the sticker has been ripped in some places:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You can try and remove the rest of the sticker, clean the metal plate under the sticker (perhaps with isopropyl alcohol) and then apply a new sticker once there is no adhesive remaining on the heated bed.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You can remove the sticker with the method above, but instead of replacing it with a new sticker, you can buy a PEI sheet and cut it to size if required (read more about PEI &lt;a href=&quot;https://all3dp.com/2/pei-sheet-as-a-3d-printer-print-bed-sheet-a-guide/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;) and then stick it to the metal plate.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally, I would recommend the latter option, since PEI is low maintenance and the prints automatically pop off the sheet once it cools down, however just make sure not to print PETG on it, since it sticks too much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other hand, if your entire heated bed is broken, the best-case scenario is to look for a heated bed that was designed specifically for your printer. Especially since your printer's heated bed has 3 mounting screws instead of 4. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you somehow have a solution for mounting a heated bed with 4 mounting screws on a printer that uses 3, the things you need to watch out for are the heated bed's operating voltage (it should be 24v) and the dimensions must be the same. If the wires are not provided with the heated bed, make sure to get wires that have high enough gauge so that it is able to handle the high currents that the heated bed will need. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6938" LastActivityDate="2019-12-10T09:05:44.723" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11524" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11525" CreationDate="2019-12-10T09:07:43.887" Score="1" ViewCount="250" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm new to 3D printing and I'm learning how to build my own 3D printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I bought polymer LM8UU bearings and I'm trying to fit onto a rod of dimension: D8&amp;nbsp;mm * L300&amp;nbsp;mm. Sadly it doesn't fit, I was wondering if I would need to buy new rod? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If so, what size of diameter should be used?  General guidelines I need to look out for are also appreciated?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19378" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-12-10T09:28:42.607" LastActivityDate="2019-12-11T05:36:45.587" Title="Building 3D printer: LM8UU bearing can't fit into" Tags="|diy-3d-printer|bearing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11525" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11524" CreationDate="2019-12-10T09:49:20.513" Score="1" Body="&lt;h3&gt;Bearing on a shaft&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An 8 mm (ID, Internal Diameter) bearing should always fit on an 8 mm (OD, Outer Diameter) shaft. If it does not fit, one of the 2 is of a different size. Please use a caliper to determine the size of both.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Bearing in a housing&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it is the outer size of the bearing, i.e. fitting in a printed carriage or a bearing housing (e.g. SCxxUU), you should be aware of the different sizes of polymer bearings. E.g. there are RJMP-01-xx and RJ4JP-01-xx types of polymer bearings (xx denotes the shaft diameter, e.g. 08 for 8 mm shafts).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For RJMP-01-xx bearings (&lt;strong&gt;not&lt;/strong&gt; compatible with LMxxUU bearings):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&#xA;// Parameters for RJMP-01-xx (shaft size xx, all dimensions in [mm])&#xA;// Designation  d1  d2  B   B1      s   dn&#xA;//-------------------------------------------&#xA;// RJMP-01-08   8   16  25  16.2    1.1  15.2&#xA;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For RJ4JP-01-xx bearings (compatible with LMxxUU bearings):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&#xA;// Parameters for RJ4JP-01-xx (shaft size xx, all dimensions in [mm])&#xA;// Designation  d1  d2  B   B1      s   dn&#xA;//-------------------------------------------&#xA;// RJ4JP-01-08  8   15  24  17.5    1.1  14.3&#xA;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;d1 is the inner diameter, d2 the outer diameter and B the length of the bearing&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The RJ4JP-01-08 bearings are drop-in replacements for the LM8UU linear bearings. Note that the RJMP-01-08 have a larger outer diameter and do not fit into the regular bearing housings. The increased thickness gives the bearings more rigidity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:29:41.667" LastActivityDate="2019-12-11T05:36:45.587" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11526" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11528" CreationDate="2019-12-10T16:43:59.517" Score="1" ViewCount="172" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to find out how &quot;normal&quot; filament (not super expensive filament) varies in diameter (or more accurately cross sectional area) over the length of the filament. I've looked around and the only thing I can find, that many filaments are sold with the tolerances, not how &quot;fast&quot; they vary along the filament. A +- 0.1 mm over 1 meter is after all qite different from the same alteration over 0.1 meter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am mainly interested in this, as I want to build a printer with very small Z-height steps, thus a small variation in the filament diameter will lead to a rather large variation in the extrusion width. While I thought over the project, I came to the idea of using some kind of capacitance measuring device to detect the cross-sectional area, however it is only possible (or rather feasible) to measure the average cross-section over a rather long section (10cm+). Hence main part of the question: &lt;strong&gt;How &quot;fast&quot; does the filament change diameter?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other part is obviously: &lt;strong&gt;Are there other (cheap) ways to measure the cross-section?&lt;/strong&gt; I could use light, but then I would only get the diameter at one point (pretty sure the filaments aren't perfectly round) and using multiple sensors would quickly become expensive. And then there's the issue of transparent filaments. Most mechanical solutions have the same issue, only measuring one point and might have issues with certain types of filaments such as very flexible filaments.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19381" LastEditorUserId="19381" LastEditDate="2019-12-10T20:46:14.023" LastActivityDate="2019-12-10T20:46:14.023" Title="Filament Variation Detection" Tags="|filament|dimensional-accuracy|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11527" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7852" CreationDate="2019-12-10T16:52:06.510" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would say put a glass bed on it and you won't have to worry about tearing it ever again. Many places which sell picture frames can cut out a piece of 3&amp;nbsp;mm glass for very little (like 1-2 dollars). I've had a normal 3&amp;nbsp;mm glass bed (no expensive &quot;heat glass&quot; or anything) that's worked fine for 2 years of printing. You can use simple metal clips to hold the glass in place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As an added bonus the prints pop off by themselves when the glass cools down. I'm usually impatient and remove the glass from my printer and cool it down under water. I wouldn't recommend doing that tho, since you risk cracking the glass due to the heat shock.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Only down side is that it might be a tiny bit tricker to get the print to stick, but I don't really have anything to compare to so I don't know for sure. I only have problems getting prints to stick when my initial layer height is wrong or when printing very small things.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19381" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-12-10T17:24:28.420" LastActivityDate="2019-12-10T17:24:28.420" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11528" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11526" CreationDate="2019-12-10T20:29:09.077" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You would want a thickness gauge with the ability to communicate via serial. Once you managed to modify Marlin to talk to it, and you engineered a system of rollers for the filament to pass through, then you could automatically compensate for the thickness of the filament.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CCCX2.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CCCX2.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Neoteck Digital Thickness Gauge&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B07Q33RSH6&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.amazon.com/Neoteck-Digital-Thickness-Electronic-Micrometer/dp/B07Q33RSH6?th=1&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12857" LastActivityDate="2019-12-10T20:29:09.077" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11530" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2019-12-11T05:55:44.010" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Ender 5 family of printers (to date the 5, 5 PRO and 5 PLUS) are a low-cost 3D printer using aluminium profiles (20 x 20 mm and 20 x 40 mm) creating a cubic printer frame. The series are equipped with a heated bed and a Bowden style extruder. The build platform is lifted by a single Z-axis stepper motor for the 5 and the 5 PRO, the 5 Plus has dual Z-axis steppers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-12-11T05:55:44.010" LastActivityDate="2019-12-11T05:55:44.010" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11531" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2019-12-11T05:55:44.010" Score="0" Body="For questions about the Creality Ender 5 family of 3D printers" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-12-11T05:55:44.010" LastActivityDate="2019-12-11T05:55:44.010" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11532" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2019-12-11T06:01:08.103" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;A low-cost 3D printer clone of the Prusa i3 using aluminium profiles (20 x 20 mm and 20 x 40 mm) with a heated bed. A Bowden style extruder is lifted on a portal style printer with a single Z-axis stepper motor. To date the series consists of the 3, the 3X and the 3 PRO.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-12-11T06:01:08.103" LastActivityDate="2019-12-11T06:01:08.103" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11533" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2019-12-11T06:01:08.103" Score="0" Body="For questions about the Creality Ender 3 family of 3D printers" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-12-11T06:01:08.103" LastActivityDate="2019-12-11T06:01:08.103" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11534" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2019-12-11T06:12:54.007" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Ender 4 is a low-cost DIY 3D H-bot printer using aluminium profiles (20 x 20 mm and 20 x 40 mm) creating a cubic printer frame. The series are equipped with a heated bed and a Bowden style extruder. The build platform is lifted by a single Z-axis stepper motor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-12-11T06:12:54.007" LastActivityDate="2019-12-11T06:12:54.007" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11535" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2019-12-11T06:12:54.007" Score="0" Body="For questions about the Creality Ender 4 3D printer" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-12-11T06:12:54.007" LastActivityDate="2019-12-11T06:12:54.007" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11536" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8296" CreationDate="2019-12-11T07:44:16.207" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It could be that you're having issues now due to the filament absorbing moisture. I had a big problem with it doing that when I had waited for a few months after opening my filament. Dehydrated it using just my heated plate and a foil lined box over the top and it fixed it right up. If that's something you haven't tried yet perhaps that is what is causing you some grief.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19394" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-12-11T07:53:02.417" LastActivityDate="2019-12-11T07:53:02.417" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11539" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-12-11T17:25:17.643" Score="0" ViewCount="138" Body="&lt;p&gt;Today I started to google the idea of multimaterial printing. I checked out prusa multimaterial upgrade and while it looks nice, it is expensive and will not probably work with my non-prusa printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I discovered there is Diamond hotend, which allows for 3 (or even more) colors at the same time. But everywhere I checked, one extruder motor was used for each color. Since my MKS Gen L motor connections are already all used, I was thinking if it would be possible to handle all of the filaments with single extruder motor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically the motor would have long shaft which will cover all filaments, and I would add some servo that would push a pulley against the selected filament.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think I would slice it as a multiple hotend setup and then postprocess the gcode in a way, that when tool is changed I would add custom command that would push the pulley against appropriate filament.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would either need a servo for each of the filemants, or maybe with some clever mechanics one servo in different positions could do all of them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am just curious if you think this would be possible to do, since I did not find anyone discussing this idea. Probably because it will require adding custom commands to the firmware.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12362" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2019-12-12T16:13:38.023" LastActivityDate="2019-12-12T16:13:38.023" Title="Diamond hotend with single extruder motor" Tags="|fdm|multi-material|diamond-hotend|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11540" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-12-11T17:33:35.497" Score="3" ViewCount="1355" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am printing minis and other very detailes stuff and I find that 0.04 mm layer height gives the best looking (smoothest) result. However it takes a long time, so I am looking for ways to speed it up. Is there any slicer which offers different layer heights for the outer perimiter? So you can print your model at 0.12 mm or so, but the outer layer gets printer first 3 times at 0.04 mm?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19381" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-12-11T23:45:42.973" LastActivityDate="2019-12-12T14:30:35.653" Title="Smaller outer layer height?" Tags="|slicing|speed|layer-height|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11541" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11501" CreationDate="2019-12-11T18:25:08.997" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The only way to know exactly what limits your model, printer, slicer, and filament operate under, is to test it. While we can provide some guidelines, actual performance varies on a complex set of inter-connected variables. Even the room temp/humidity, filament age, and even filament color, can matter at the tightest margins. You have to consider what the print direction for the holes is (z/x/y), as layering matters even more than the above. And under what print speed and layer height? There's billions of combinations just with your printer alone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bottom line: run some test prints and see what you're satisfied with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10437" LastActivityDate="2019-12-11T18:25:08.997" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11542" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11540" CreationDate="2019-12-11T23:49:49.430" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Ultimaker Cura, unless you print a single perimeter outline and add extra wall infill support you are not going to have different outer perimeter layer heights.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, Cura is able to reduce the printing time, E.g. you can have fine layers for the wall (all perimeters), and coarse layers for the infill. The option is called &lt;a href=&quot;https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/52670-infill&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&quot;Infill Layer Thickness&quot;&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;h1&gt;Infill layer thickness&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Since the layer height of the infill is not important for visual quality, you can use thicker layers on the infill to reduce the print time. When adjusting this setting, always make sure that it is a multiple of the layer height, otherwise Ultimaker Cura will round it up to a multiple of the layer height. This means that you can, for example, print with an infill thickness of 0.2 mm while the layer height is 0.1 mm. The printer will first print the walls for two layers, and then it will print one thicker infill layer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that this is not a standard option, you need to put Cura in the &quot;Custom&quot; mode and filter/search for the option using the search bar. Below you'll find the upper right corner of the Cura Graphical User Interface where I searched for the option:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wlRev.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Cura infill layer thickness&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wlRev.png&quot; alt=&quot;Cura infill layer thickness&quot; title=&quot;Cura infill layer thickness&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that there are 2 options, one for regular infill of your product and one for infill of the support structures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An other department at work is working together with a start-up university company to 3D print PEEK molds (from pellets) using 2 nozzles/extruders (to create resin injection parts), one has a large nozzle, the other has a fine nozzle. They use their own developed slicer software to use the fine nozzle for the outer contours and the coarse nozzle for infill and support. It could be that they developed this because it was not available in commercial slicers. For the 2 most common free slicers, Cura and Slic3r, there is no option to have just the outer perimeter of different height than the inner perimeters. If you think of it, it is also pretty difficult to execute, you either get:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/g3q3h.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/g3q3h.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(which does not improve the quality of the product, it will make the outside more coarse) or you'll get gaps:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nmdR8.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nmdR8.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that both upper images do not include infill, only 1 outer and 3 inner perimeters. The image below is probably what is possible with Cura, so all perimeters the same; green is infill now:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZopKY.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZopKY.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-12-12T10:56:59.540" LastActivityDate="2019-12-12T10:56:59.540" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11543" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11540" CreationDate="2019-12-12T14:30:35.653" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not what you want but may still be helpful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PrusaSlicer allows the layer height to be varied along the Z-axis so that you can have more detail in bands where it is needed, and less where it is not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since infill is not your time consumer, you may not find the &quot;combine infill every n layers&quot; helpful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2082" LastActivityDate="2019-12-12T14:30:35.653" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11544" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11539" CreationDate="2019-12-12T14:38:04.210" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You might save yourself a lot of engineering by copying the Prusa MMU2.  Here is a github project for someone doing exactly that:  &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/cskozlowski/mmu2&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://github.com/cskozlowski/mmu2&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you look on &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.prusa3d.com/prusa-i3-printable-parts/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Prusa's web site, you can find printable parts for the MMU2&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2082" LastActivityDate="2019-12-12T14:38:04.210" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11546" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-12-12T17:25:08.513" Score="3" ViewCount="602" Body="&lt;p&gt;We disassembled everything in order to unclog the filament from the tube, but now I can't seem to get the nozzle to screw back in to the hotbed with the PTFE tube in place. Is there some kind of trick? I feel like if the tube were slightly smaller in diameter it would work. I'm using the same tube, just without the filament that had clogged it. Am I just not using enough force?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/a8iq4.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/a8iq4.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19403" LastActivityDate="2019-12-17T16:41:14.840" Title="I need assistance replacing the PTFE tube in the nozzle on our Flashforge dreamer" Tags="|ptfe-tube|flashforge|flashforge-dreamer|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11547" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-12-12T18:07:04.847" Score="0" ViewCount="65" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just downloaded slic3r and setup my settings on it, but when I sliced and started the print, the head went off the bed and then tried to print. It doesn't matter what I set the origin to, it still does the same thing. Does someone more knowledgable with slic3r know how to fix this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19404" LastActivityDate="2019-12-12T18:07:04.847" Title="Ender 3 with slic3r causes the head to go off the bed" Tags="|creality-ender-3|slic3r|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11548" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11941" CreationDate="2019-12-12T21:50:28.493" Score="6" ViewCount="1086" Body="&lt;p&gt;I woke up this morning with my 20 hour long print failed around 15 hour in. I checked the octoprint console, and saw a very weird temperature graph. Later found out thermal runaway protection kicked in, and I thanked the gods for having decided to install a &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/davidramiro/Marlin-Ai3M&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;custom firmware&lt;/a&gt; to enable that protection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have an &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.anycubic.com/products/anycubic-i3-mega&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;anycubic i3 mega&lt;/a&gt;, recently upgraded with an E3D v6. To make that upgrade, I had to splice new connectors on both the thermistor and the cartridge, as the ones they came with weren't going to work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ever since upgrading I started experiencing some weird Z-wobble, but I am coming to the conclusion that it may actually be a slight consistent underextrusion. The final layers of the parts I had been printing, are all severely underextruded, going as far as delaminating. I have attached both a picture of the temperature reading, and one of the failed parts. You should also see the underextrusion I was talking about in the first layers, and the major underextrusion in the final layers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, I don't have a lot of experience with this kind of issue but I think the temperature was jumping around too quickly to actually be a good reading. Sadly I was only able to take the final part of the graph before the printer shut down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have taken some steps to try to avoid this from happening again&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I have reseated the thermistor and the cartridge&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I have reseated the connectors for the thermistor and the cartridge&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I have re-zip tied and changed the orientation of the wires and hotend to something that seemed better.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Before this all went down, I had ordered a &lt;a href=&quot;https://e3d-online.com/titan-extruder&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;titan extruder&lt;/a&gt; to try to mitigate the underextrusion, as I read online (I think it was from E3D official sources) that the internal pressure of the v6 may be higher than the standard hotend and therefore I may have needed a geared extruder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do you have any advice for me? And if you could also help me figure out if the first layers actually show underextrusion or Z-wobble, thanks for making it this far.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I should mention that this had happened to me already but without triggering the protection, the part did heavily underextrude but it was just a test part while trying to find out what was going on with the &quot;Z-wobble.&quot; It doesn't seem to consistently happen every time I start a print, but I figure that long prints would certainly make it more likely to happen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TpSvul.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TpSvul.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Temperature Graph&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SgxXhl.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SgxXhl.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Failed print&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19406" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-12-13T09:15:00.357" LastActivityDate="2021-01-30T02:01:50.780" Title="Weird temperature graph and thermal runaway protection triggered" Tags="|troubleshooting|hotend|thermistor|underextrusion|e3d-v6|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11549" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11556" CreationDate="2019-12-13T10:00:11.567" Score="13" ViewCount="18663" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Here is the context&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br/&gt;&#xA;I've got an old car for which I have a small plastic piece who is broken. As it's an old car and a very specific piece, I can't find it anymore. So I was thinking about 3D printing it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My problem is this piece is on the carburetor, so close to the engine. This means, it can heat a lot, close to 90-100&amp;nbsp;°C.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;My question&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br/&gt;&#xA;Do the pieces created with the common 3D printing techniques melt at 100&amp;nbsp;°C? If yes, what kind of other 3D printing technique can I use?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is the piece I want to recreate (sorry for the bad quality), the scale is in cm.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XBZ6Q.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XBZ6Q.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;The piece&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19412" LastEditorUserId="19412" LastEditDate="2019-12-14T16:19:30.503" LastActivityDate="2020-08-03T17:56:13.237" Title="What is the melting temperature of a 3D printed part?" Tags="|desktop-printer|" AnswerCount="10" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11550" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11549" CreationDate="2019-12-13T10:39:10.757" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Depending on the exact mechanical load and material used to print, you might get away with 100&amp;nbsp;°C.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next to the melting temperature required to print the material (which will always be substantially higher than the maximum useable temperature!), you probably also want to have a look at the glass temperature of your specific material. Around that temperature your material becomes soft (rubber like) and can deform permanently when cooling down again. Chances exist that under a considerable mechanical load, the part will deform at even lower temperatures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maybe it would help to post a picture or describe the exact component you're trying to replicate. It might help in finding an alternative solution. (E.g. carving out of say PEEK to say anything.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19305" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-12-13T11:22:46.983" LastActivityDate="2019-12-13T11:22:46.983" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11552" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11549" CreationDate="2019-12-13T12:56:14.063" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recommend this video by CNC Kitchen, as it shows an interesting, accurate and detailed, side-by-side comparison of heat deformation of custom 3D printed test samples, printed from various materials:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;PLA&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;PETG&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;ABS&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;HT-PLA&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;3dkTOP&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;He even CNCs a custom, yet simple, test rig in order to carry out the test.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Well worth a watch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/vLrISrkg46g?start=0&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The results for the various filaments can be seen in this graph, taken from the video:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ahj4d.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Graphical summary of 3D heat treatment tests&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ahj4d.png&quot; alt=&quot;Graphical summary of 3D heat treatment tests&quot; title=&quot;Graphical summary of 3D heat treatment tests&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In summary, the annealed 3dkTOP filaments perform very well, without failure, and annealing PLA helps considerably (although some shrinkage is incurred)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19406" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2020-08-01T21:28:47.257" LastActivityDate="2020-08-01T21:28:47.257" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11553" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11549" CreationDate="2019-12-13T14:26:05.010" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You might want to check out printing with nylon. It's not typical of most 3D printers but you could always have it printed with a printing service, since it's a one off part. They can withstand a good amount of heat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19415" LastActivityDate="2019-12-13T14:26:05.010" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11554" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11549" CreationDate="2019-12-13T16:55:38.140" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Nylon is probably your best bet.&#xA;It is resistant to some chemicals as well.&#xA;Figure on printing it at around 250 °C.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It might do the job.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1397" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-08-02T10:41:18.090" LastActivityDate="2020-08-02T10:41:18.090" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11555" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11549" CreationDate="2019-12-13T17:41:49.180" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I only use an ingeo 850 or 870 PLA that have different melting temp and more resistant the normal PLA. It's a lot easier to print with a normal desktop consumer printer then ABS or NYLON&#xA;Doesn't have the same characteristics as a nylon filament but it can be used inside a car, I have used to print some parts for my car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.natureworksllc.com/~/media/Files/NatureWorks/Technical-Documents/Technical-Data-Sheets/TechnicalDataSheet_3D870_monofilament_pdf.pdf?la=en&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.natureworksllc.com/~/media/Files/NatureWorks/Technical-Documents/Technical-Data-Sheets/TechnicalDataSheet_3D870_monofilament_pdf.pdf?la=en&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/uMIfU4obfo8?start=325&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&#xA;(sorry but it's in spanish but a termal test)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another option is to make a mold with the 3d printer and use a high temp resin&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19419" LastEditorUserId="19419" LastEditDate="2019-12-13T17:50:31.683" LastActivityDate="2019-12-13T17:50:31.683" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11556" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11549" CreationDate="2019-12-13T21:27:36.100" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;The number you're looking for is the &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Glass_transition&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;glass transition temperature&lt;/a&gt; (the lowest temperature at which the material can flow or warp), not the melting point.  This depends on what material you're using; approximate temperatures for common printable materials are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;PLA: 60˚C&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;PETG, high-temperature PLA: 95 ˚C&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;ABS: 105˚C&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Nylon: typically 70˚C or above (&quot;Nylon&quot; is a large family of similar polymers)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Polycarbonate: 145˚C&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any plastic under your hood is probably either nylon (for its durability, impact resistance, and chemical resistance) or ABS (for its strength and heat resistance).  These are both difficult materials to print: ABS emits toxic fumes while printing, and tends to warp if you're not using a heated enclosure, while nylon readily absorbs water from the air, causing the filament to bubble as it's printed.  Further, many printers can't handle the high temperatures needed to work with these materials.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're going to print this yourself, I recommend using PETG and inspecting the part after a few days of use to see if it's warping.  PETG is reasonably easy to print and comes close to your target heat resistance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're going to get someone else to print it, I recommend using ABS.  It's probably what the original part was made of, and anyone willing to print ABS for you will have the heated enclosure and ventilation system to deal with printing it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd avoid polycarbonate unless you know the original part was made of it.  Although PC is strong and heat resistant, it's also somewhat brittle and vulnerable to scratching.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;High-temperature PLA is also brittle, and requires a heat-treating step that will change the dimensions of the part.  It will likely take several tries to get something that comes out the right size, and even then, you risk having the part break when your car hits a bump.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="48" LastActivityDate="2019-12-13T21:27:36.100" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11557" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11549" CreationDate="2019-12-13T22:44:14.973" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Have the part commercially printed in metal.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I haven't used a commercial 3D print service so I can't recommend one, but I know there are many out there and the prices are reasonable. For example, I found that if their terms of service did not prohibit weapons, I could have had Shapeways print magazines for my FX air rifle in &lt;em&gt;gold plated, hand polished stainless steel&lt;/em&gt; for less than FX charges for one machined out of aluminum.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, print the part yourself in whatever material you have available to ensure that it fits and operates correctly. Then upload the file to a company that can print it in metal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A possible DIY alternative, depending on the shape and size of the part, would be &lt;strong&gt;lost PLA casting&lt;/strong&gt;. Hobbyists usually do this with aluminum.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18850" LastEditorUserId="18850" LastEditDate="2019-12-13T22:49:29.590" LastActivityDate="2019-12-13T22:49:29.590" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11558" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11546" CreationDate="2019-12-14T05:52:22.757" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I got the same issue before. When you tried to push out the material from the tube, one end of the tube was being pressed. The tube was so soft that the diameter at that end was slightly increased. Hence it was difficult to put the tube back. When you tried to tighten the screw, more force applied and the tube end was pinched more. I got some spare tubes from the supplier. I simply replaced the tube. The PTFE tube could be pulled off from the nozzle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19428" LastActivityDate="2019-12-14T05:52:22.757" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11559" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-12-14T06:36:37.487" Score="2" ViewCount="1221" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm brand new to 3D printing. Just got me an Ender 5 Pro. After messing around for the last couple of days with bed leveling, I'm finally able to get consistent first level all thought I have to increase filament speed to 120 otherwise there are too many gaps in the base. Now I'm trying to work out issues printing &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/make:737567&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this Calibration cube&lt;/a&gt;. &#xA;My corners are being rounded too much and therefore size of cube differs. 20.02-20.08 mm when checking middle or when including corners goes to 20.50. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I printed a full-sized model of an owl, it looks like it has stitching on the back. And random bumps all over.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/b4qCX.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/b4qCX.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PMchA.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PMchA.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HCjUU.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HCjUU.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19429" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-12-14T11:39:59.150" LastActivityDate="2022-09-23T01:04:15.387" Title="Ender 5 Printing Issues" Tags="|print-quality|troubleshooting|creality-ender-5|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11561" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11563" CreationDate="2019-12-14T17:37:28.810" Score="9" ViewCount="1102" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is different about cleaning filament to make it effective? What is it made out of? How does it work?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12562" LastActivityDate="2019-12-14T22:07:40.903" Title="What's so special about cleaning filament?" Tags="|filament|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11562" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17987" CreationDate="2019-12-14T18:22:42.047" Score="2" ViewCount="231" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm printing with a Prusa MK3, with the following settings:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;3 perimeters&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;50&amp;nbsp;% infill&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;infill overlap: 50&amp;nbsp;%&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The filament is Polyalchemy emerald green (PLA). Nozzle temperature: 210&amp;nbsp;°C.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On a simple part (it's a keychain), the shell detaches if I apply a bit of force on a zone of the part that is &quot;fragile&quot;. See picture. You might not be able to see it, but only the 2 external perimeters detach from the rest of the part. I used to print this part on another printer, and I never observed this problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any idea on how to solve this problem? It seems the 3 external perimeters didn't fuse properly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cUI0O.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cUI0O.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14188" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-12-16T17:51:18.737" LastActivityDate="2021-08-27T09:52:41.340" Title="Shell detaches from the rest of the part" Tags="|prusa-i3|pla|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11563" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11561" CreationDate="2019-12-14T22:07:40.903" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;You may discover that &quot;cleaning filament&quot; is also described as nylon filament. Nylon requires higher temperatures than most commonly used filaments. As you raise the hot end to the required temperature to melt the nylon (typically 250°C, all of the other debris has either carbonized or melted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The hot end is allowed to cool (30-50°C) at which point the nylon filament is pulled out in the reverse direction. Some 'net references suggest a hard pull, but I disagree with violent mechanical forces being applied to delicate mechanical devices. Perhaps that's why my cleaning process takes two to four attempts. Some net references also suggest to start the nozzle heating after reaching the cooling point and to begin applying force upward during the re-heating.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My Sigma 16 uses the above method and also suggests a &quot;strong pull&quot; which is a translation from &quot;sharp yank,&quot; in my opinion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This will collect the debris from the nozzle and heat break and may completely clean the filament path.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I use &quot;natural&quot; clear nylon for cleaning and perform the sequence two to three times, until the heated portion of the nylon no longer has contamination visible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even nylon filament that is not dry enough for printing works for cleaning. The moisture bubbles turn the filament into flimsy punctured nylon thread, but it causes no problem with the cleaning process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.filamentone.com/blogs/how-to/how-to-clean-your-nozzle-cold-pull-method&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;FilamentOne website&lt;/a&gt; references most of what I've posted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/j7r6E.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/j7r6E.png&quot; alt=&quot;filament cleaning image&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The above image resembles my experience, although the severely &quot;dirty&quot; image is much more excessive than my cleanings. The worst is to have PVA support material that has been &quot;cooked&quot; at ABS temperatures or higher for long periods. An almost guaranteed nozzle clog is the result of those conditions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastActivityDate="2019-12-14T22:07:40.903" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11564" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-12-16T01:03:52.490" Score="5" ViewCount="14660" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm printing a model on my Ender 3 in Mika3D Silk PLA, which (just for reference, this is not atypical) has a stated temperature of 200&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C to 235&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C. I have used this filament before and found it works best for me around 200&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C, but was not the case with this print, and I'm wondering what else I can do to fix this issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have retractions enabled, have lowered the printing temperature to 180&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C and decreased the feed rate significantly, to around 75&amp;nbsp;%. Both of these adjustments happened gradually, making sure there was no change in stringing between adjustments.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do have rafts and Z hops enabled in Cura, as previous prints of this model were knocked off the base even after leveling the bed properly, and almost every time a &quot;hop&quot; is performed, some stringing occurs. Is there something I can do in my settings, etc, to fix this issue?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is an image of the problem.&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KB59T.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Image of print with stringing&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: did some extra research and &lt;em&gt;increased&lt;/em&gt; my print speed and switched to a better testing model - same issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19390" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-12-17T06:48:50.887" LastActivityDate="2021-02-04T10:48:15.740" Title="Fixing Z-Hop Stringing" Tags="|print-quality|ultimaker-cura|pla|creality-ender-3|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11567" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2019-12-17T06:41:03.533" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Prusa Research was founded as a one-man startup in 2012 by Josef Prusa, a Czech hobbyist, maker and inventor - and now one of the most famous names in the 3D printing industry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-12-17T06:41:03.533" LastActivityDate="2019-12-17T06:41:03.533" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11568" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2019-12-17T06:41:03.533" Score="0" Body=" Questions using this tag should involve generic questions about the company Prusa Research or a common question on Prusa products" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-12-17T06:41:03.533" LastActivityDate="2019-12-17T06:41:03.533" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11569" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2019-12-17T06:46:30.353" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Multi Material Upgrade is an additional part that can be placed on top of a Prusa i3 printer to allow printing in multiple colors. Several iterations of the MMU exist (MMU1, MMU2.0 and MMU2S).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Compared to the MMU1 (first generation of the Multi Material Upgrade), the MMU2S went through a major revision, resulting in a simpler and more reliable design. The number of simultaneously supported filaments increased to the total of five, which enables the users to print even more complex and more colorful objects.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;MMU2S comes with a redesigned body, new filament sensor, filament buffer and a new filament loading mechanism. Instead of the previous Bowden system, the new unit uses a direct-drive feed and a single PTFE tube to lead the selected filament to the extruder. The motorized selector head has a F.I.N.D.A filament sensor and a built-in blade, which prevents filament jamming.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-12-17T06:46:30.353" LastActivityDate="2019-12-17T06:46:30.353" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11570" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2019-12-17T06:46:30.353" Score="0" Body="Use this tag for questions about the Multi Material Upgrade from Prusa Research" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-12-17T06:46:30.353" LastActivityDate="2019-12-17T06:46:30.353" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11572" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8694" CreationDate="2019-12-17T08:36:45.407" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A tall skirt (like 1 cm tall or more, even as tall as the part) few millimetres from the part would shield the corners and the outer parts from colder air and keep the part temperature high, reducing curling. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is in principle better than mouse ears, because these just pull the corners, which will still have a lot of internal stress when cooled, but if you keep the part warm as I suggest, the corner will stay flat(ter) by themselves, resulting in a stronger and better print with less internal stresses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2338" LastActivityDate="2019-12-17T08:36:45.407" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11573" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10881" CreationDate="2019-12-17T08:45:22.313" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cooling any single face of the motor is fine. The motor case conducts heat &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; well. Many 3d printers effectively cool the motors merely by having the output drive face of the motor bolted to a metal bracket which is bolted to the aluminum extrusion frame. That's it. That contact alone cools the motor, which is shown by how the motors overheat when people install vibration dampers, which puts rubber between the motor and the extrusion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only thing I would worry about is the surface area inside this particular style of block, and ensuring that you use an all-aluminum radiator since the block is aluminum.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is another type of cheap 40x40 aluminum block with the nipples on the face instead of on the edge. That style has fins and a lot of surface area inside. This style with the nipples on the edge has a big S channel inside and not much surface area. It may still be more than enough. I'm just saying it's a significant difference and it might make a difference. If you find you're not cooling enough, all you may need to do is switch to that other style of block, not try to install 3 blocks per motor or any other exotic nonsense.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But no way do you have to worry about coooling more than one face of the motor, nor does it matter rwhich face it is, especially not with active water cooling like this, as long as the block is actually making good thermal contact with the motor (thermal tape, or thermal epoxy, or thermal pad &amp;amp; zip ties)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19461" LastActivityDate="2019-12-17T08:45:22.313" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11574" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11546" CreationDate="2019-12-17T16:41:14.840" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was able to fix my problem so thought I'd post how I solved it for anyone else that is looking for a possible answer:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I believe the actual problem was that there was filament hardened inside the nozzle which I couldn't see, so that prevented me from being able to push the PTFE tube into the nozzle deep enough. I reassembled the extruder and heated it up, then using needle nose pliers so I wouldn't burn myself, I held the nozzle to the end to block to heat it up, (I didn't actually screw it in) and the stuck filament melted so I could scrape it out. I also learned from Tang, the Amazon flashforge tech guy, that the tube should be 23mm above the block, so that was helpful to use as a guide. As I read in other places, I then inserted the tube into the block to heat it up, which I think made it slightly more pliable and easier to insert into the nozzle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19403" LastActivityDate="2019-12-17T16:41:14.840" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11575" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11549" CreationDate="2019-12-17T20:25:23.657" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would take a different approach.  I would use brass or copper, machine it on a lathe to get the two diameters (you need to start with a thick piece so you are left with reasonable wall thicknesses), or, alternatively, use spin-forming to enlarge it to the diameter needed (works with copper, and you can use normal thin-walled pipe because you are only re-forming it, not cutting anything away), drill a hole in the side, thread it, and use a die to create a thread on the insertion pipe.  then I'd screw it it, and finally solder it into place with a high-strength (lead-free) solder.  The threading helps reduce stress on the solder joint; I can imagine it would crack a straight solder-only join without much usage at all. That right-angle joint of small diameter is going to be the weak point.   It is the most likely place to have it snap, or start delaminating.  That part was probably injection-molded as a single piece, reducing the effects of stress and eliminating any consideration of delaminating.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note also that some of these parts have been computer-designed to precise dimensions, and a slight change in the ID of the side-pipe, or even its OD, might make a drastic change in its behavior.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your only tool is a hammer, all your problems look like nails. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10900" LastActivityDate="2019-12-17T20:25:23.657" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11576" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11577" CreationDate="2019-12-17T22:07:17.777" Score="3" ViewCount="280" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am attempting to build a 3D printer using the &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/gregsaun/prusa_i3_bear_upgrade&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Bear Upgrade&lt;/a&gt; for guidance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I want to modify some of the parts. I am basing the modified parts on the original designs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would like to understand the reason behind some design details presented on the original designs so that, if necessary, introduce them into the new designs. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XTG3N.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XTG3N.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;example of design with details I don&amp;#39;t understand the reason behind&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Item 1) The holes are not round. Why???&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Item 2 ) There are some little squares inside the piece which i don't know if they are there for some structural reason &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please use &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/gregsaun/prusa_i3_bear_upgrade/blob/master/full_upgrade/for_mk3/printed_parts/step/y_idler.step&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this link&lt;/a&gt; to the piece depicted above. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a drawing of the full assembly, showing that this piece is the y axes linear rods holder:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rOAzb.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rOAzb.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19469" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-12-19T15:42:53.630" LastActivityDate="2019-12-28T18:37:33.050" Title="Help needed to design 3D printer part" Tags="|3d-design|diy-3d-printer|fusion360|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11577" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11576" CreationDate="2019-12-17T22:45:17.210" Score="4" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Item 1) The holes are not round. Why???&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Two things about this. First, the print is upside down. The holes are not round to accommodate the fact you cannot print a round hole unsupported. If you try to print the circle unsupported, when you get to the top portion, it will sag until the print catches up to it. By that time, the circle is flat at the top and you won't be able to fit whatever you were trying to fit into it (without some post processing). Printing the V-ish looking part at the top will ensure you'll be able fit things through it you meant to fit through (sorry if that's redundant). If you'd like to know more, take a look at the following Maker's Muse video:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/j6508J94VsA?start=0&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Item 2 ) There are some little squares inside the piece which i don't know if they are there for some structural reason&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To be very honest with you, I don't know why the little squares are there either, however, I believe you can answer this part for yourself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think the answer lies in the part, meaning, if you can manipulate the 3d design in whatever you're using to design it, you can look into the part and see what's going on with it. It appears there are dashed lines in the center parts, which would make me believe these are &lt;em&gt;hidden lines&lt;/em&gt;. There is a feature there which is &lt;em&gt;inside&lt;/em&gt; of the part which you cannot see otherwise. By turning it, you should be able to decipher what these features are for and therefore should be able to discern what the small squares a for as well. If, after you've looked the part over completely you cannot discern a purpose for the squares, don't design them into your part. It may just be they are an artifact of the design itself and doesn't provide anything worth repeating in your own design. Bottom line, don't get hung up on the minute details which in the end don't mean a thing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11242" LastActivityDate="2019-12-17T22:45:17.210" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11578" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-12-18T00:34:17.260" Score="1" ViewCount="146" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I do a tensile test on 17-4 PH stainless steel, the stress-strain curve is very strange, two sections of Young’s modulus appeared. What is going on? The sample is made by SLM.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5mZFx.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5mZFx.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;17-4 PH stainless steel load vs. displacement curve&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17488" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2020-02-05T23:19:25.490" LastActivityDate="2020-02-06T22:55:49.000" Title="17-4 PH Tensile Test" Tags="|metal-parts|slm|part-testing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11580" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11583" CreationDate="2019-12-18T13:53:28.950" Score="2" ViewCount="702" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an XYZ DaVinci Mini w which keeps jamming. It does not give a Jam Error. I disassembled the extruder 1 time and found a short piece of PLA stuck in it however that did not fix anything. I've also tried using the Load Filament function repeatedly to try to get the filament out but it does not work. However, after disassembling the extruder, instead of just not printing it makes a loud repeated clicking sound.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any Ideas?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19482" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-12-18T22:09:20.930" LastActivityDate="2019-12-18T22:09:20.930" Title="XYZ DaVinci 3D Printer constantly jamming" Tags="|extruder|xyz-da-vinci-mini-w|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11582" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11470" CreationDate="2019-12-18T14:50:59.657" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I got my printer fixed and am posting steps I took for people with similar problems in the future. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Initial problem:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After I replaced my entire heating unit and reconnected the wires, my printer started to read about 135/185 °C for the nozzle and bed at room temperature. It gives the &quot;Heating failed, printer halted, please reset&quot; error when I tried to heat the hot end and bed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Troubleshooting steps:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Checked the resistance of the thermistors. Both the hot end and bed were about 100k. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Reflashed Marlin with different thermistor settings. Only the static (dummy) ones worked (reading a static value of 25/100 °C). All the other settings were giving very high readings at room temperature. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Replaced the mainboard. This fixed the bed reading but hot end was still not working. Checked the hot end thermistor again at this point and couldn't get any values, which suggests the thermistor wire was broken somewhere. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Replaced the hot end thermistor and that fixed all the issues. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So what I think happened was that I messed up the board when I was reconnecting the heating unit. Then at some point after I first measured the thermistor resistance, the hot end thermistor broke. Replaced the thermistor and that solved the issue. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19255" LastActivityDate="2019-12-18T14:50:59.657" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11583" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11580" CreationDate="2019-12-18T15:02:01.613" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The clicking sound typically means the drive gears are slipping on the filament because there is a jam in the head/nozzle.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;First thing to do is clear the nozzle. You can use a small drill bit to clear the chamber, but if the extrusion hole (at the tip) is clogged, you'll need to get a set of fine wires designed for extruder clearing.  Then heat the head above melting point and slip the wire in (if possible).   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In general, I find it easier and faster to replace clogged nozzles.  They're cheap, and more often than not clearing the exit hole enlarges the diameter (bad thing). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2191" LastActivityDate="2019-12-18T15:02:01.613" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11584" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3572" CreationDate="2019-12-18T19:12:37.530" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had this problem and I had to adjust the nozzle temperature 10&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C below the minimum temperature of 190&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19484" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-12-18T20:01:26.423" LastActivityDate="2019-12-18T20:01:26.423" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11585" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10796" CreationDate="2019-12-18T21:37:34.180" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The solution was posted in a comment, as the asker hasn't posted an answer yet, it is answered in this community wiki answer:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Ended up replacing the thermistor which solved the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2019-12-18T21:37:34.180" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2019-12-18T21:37:34.180" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11586" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11588" CreationDate="2019-12-19T01:35:16.663" Score="3" ViewCount="573" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a monoprice select mini v2, and it has worked well up until now. It currently displays 999 degrees for the build plate temperature. This is a glitch, and I don't know how to fix it. Since it thinks the temperature is so high, it thinks that the build plate does not need to be heated. Because of this, many of my prints turn out warped. Is there a way to fix this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19488" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-12-19T05:57:30.873" LastActivityDate="2019-12-19T11:42:13.970" Title="Monoprice select mini V2 displaying '999' degrees for build plate temp" Tags="|heated-bed|monoprice-select-mini|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11587" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-12-19T08:04:05.663" Score="3" ViewCount="230" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Printer:&lt;/strong&gt; Monoprice Maker Select V2 3D Printer&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Problem:&lt;/strong&gt; Extruder not working&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;History:&lt;/strong&gt; My extruder was clogged and I didn't realize it at first and I opened the extruder and pulled out the stuck piece but later I realized it still was not working. When I put pressure on it the motor rotates and the filament comes out but does not work by it self.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Try 1:&lt;/strong&gt; Thought something was wrong with the gears so I reseated them, Didn't work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Try 2&lt;/strong&gt;: Thought the extruder motor broke, so I replace the NEMA 17 motor, Didn't work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Try 3:&lt;/strong&gt; Plugged the motor into the x-axis plug the motor works as shown here - &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://photos.app.goo.gl/kY4okR4oqkYSyzhN8&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://photos.app.goo.gl/kY4okR4oqkYSyzhN8&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is how the motor behaves when pluged into the [original] extruder plug-&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://photos.app.goo.gl/QPo7RNeB6AFi6KsM6&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://photos.app.goo.gl/QPo7RNeB6AFi6KsM6&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any help is appreciated, Thank you :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19489" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-12-19T19:08:53.830" LastActivityDate="2020-01-20T07:25:13.120" Title="Extruder doing the shimmy, How can I fix?" Tags="|extruder|stepper|monoprice-maker-select|extruder-driver|nema-17|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11588" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11586" CreationDate="2019-12-19T11:42:13.970" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You get this temperature reading when there is broken wire. Not owning this printer type, can't you switch out the bed thermistor for a new one? Or alternatively check if a connection is loose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2019-12-19T11:42:13.970" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11589" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-12-19T23:09:02.033" Score="2" ViewCount="1163" Body="&lt;p&gt;Im printing on a CR10S Pro and I can't find a way to pause the print at a certain height, to insert magnets into my print. Is there a way I can do this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19500" LastActivityDate="2019-12-19T23:09:02.033" Title="CR10S Pro Pausing the print at a certain layer height" Tags="|3d-models|creality-cr-10|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11591" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-12-20T00:44:49.583" Score="4" ViewCount="2654" Body="&lt;p&gt;My first magnetic bed mat for my Ender 3 Pro is cracking underneath. On the top side there is a bubble in the middle which prevents any viable print. The layers are probably separating.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am new to printing but have read many articles on hiccups to expect, fixes etc. I do understand these magnetic mats can break down. They're pretty cheap on Amazon (something like \$12 for a 2-pack). Not a huge deal. I've printed only about 1100g worth of filament over 30 prints. Despite their cheap price I don't feel I got a proper amount of mileage out of the mat. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I keep my bed at 60&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C and 215&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C for the filament. I'm pretty sure 60&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C is below the maximum temperature for this kind of bed. I am struggling to find articles on this issue. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What can I do to prolong the life of these mats? I have removed the mat (with its print) while the bed was still hot to remove items just as much as removing cold items. Am I supposed to wait until it's cold? The cracks I only assume are from flexing the mat. I'm not trying to fold it here. I do pull on the item as I'm curving the mat to break it free. I can't explain the bubble.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bed deteriorated after my first large print which took 27 hours. Prior, longest print I had was about 5 hours, most prints 1-1.5 hours. Is this a factor?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Z69pA.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Z69pA.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;gn&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19504" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-12-21T05:29:30.503" LastActivityDate="2020-02-19T21:17:41.470" Title="Ender 3 cracking magnetic bed" Tags="|creality-ender-3|build-plate|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11595" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11596" CreationDate="2019-12-20T08:20:42.203" Score="3" ViewCount="593" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have this image in STL&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TMJIT.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TMJIT.png&quot; alt=&quot;3D model&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But it seems cura skipped the lower panel entirely when slicing the STL. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CPMkb.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CPMkb.png&quot; alt=&quot;Sliced&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The base is thick, as you can see here, but it is still missing in Preview, and Cura seems to ignore the base.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/apYlc.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/apYlc.png&quot; alt=&quot;Base close&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have tried to decrease to 0.1mm for width or initial layer, but cura still ignored the base panel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also found this odd behaviour in a number of my models.. such as this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bPdo8.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bPdo8.png&quot; alt=&quot;Car&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;or this&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TcZSH.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TcZSH.png&quot; alt=&quot;Car 2&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Notice those missing parts? It is like some parts are floating in the air.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can someone help me out here? What kind of setting I have to modify?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19092" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2019-12-20T11:30:35.333" LastActivityDate="2019-12-20T11:30:35.333" Title="Cura 4.4 missing object parts" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|3d-models|stl|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11596" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11595" CreationDate="2019-12-20T10:51:24.177" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Using the preview feature as you have is a good method to determine that the original model is flawed. It's not unusual to discover detailed models have reversed normals or non-contiguous surfaces, which will not print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In a simple example, consider a cube for which five of the six faces are properly described by the design software. This would result in all eight vertices being present, allowing the software to present the &quot;missing&quot; face, but the slicer is unable to create this aspect. The cube is no longer solid and is presented as seven zero-thickness panels, which can't be printed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is necessary to repair the broken models, by closing gaps and reverting/recalculating normals, but that requires skill in other software.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some slicers will attempt to repair damaged models, but some are so severe, the results you've experienced are the result.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want a confirmation of a failed model, load it into free Meshmixer, run Analysis/Inspector and expect a &quot;pincushion&quot; of highlighted failures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2019-12-20T11:29:39.177" LastActivityDate="2019-12-20T11:29:39.177" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11597" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11598" CreationDate="2019-12-21T04:12:04.200" Score="5" ViewCount="14918" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an Ender 3 Pro with a BL Touch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my G-code should I add an &lt;code&gt;M500&lt;/code&gt; after the &lt;code&gt;G29&lt;/code&gt;, to save the results to the EEPROM? I know storage size is an issue, so does storing these results cause an issue?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I believe the saved results can be activated before the next print using: &lt;code&gt;M420 S1&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I do, does that mean I just auto home (&lt;code&gt;G28&lt;/code&gt;) but don’t need to run a &lt;code&gt;G29&lt;/code&gt; until I think the bed has lost its level?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was trying to clarify this after reading:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10345/bl-touch-probing-fails-intermittently&quot;&gt;BL Touch Probing Fails Intermittently&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19503" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-12-21T05:41:36.520" LastActivityDate="2019-12-21T05:48:54.400" Title="Saving BL Touch settings" Tags="|creality-ender-3|g-code|bltouch|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11598" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11597" CreationDate="2019-12-21T05:48:54.400" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;From &lt;a href=&quot;http://marlinfw.org/docs/features/auto_bed_leveling.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this source&lt;/a&gt; you can read:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;After a G29 the leveling data is only stored in RAM. You have to use M500 to save the bed leveling data to EEPROM, otherwise the data will be lost when you restart (or reconnect) the printer. Use M502 to reset the bed leveling data (and other settings to defaults). Use M501 to reload your last-saved bed leveling from EEPROM. This is done automatically on reboot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The source also answers the use of &lt;code&gt;M420 S1&lt;/code&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;After a G29 bed leveling is automatically enabled, but in all other situations you must use M420 S1 to enable bed leveling. It is essential to include the command M420 S1 in the “Start G-code” in your slicer settings. If you have no bed leveling, or if there is no leveling data, then this command is simply ignored.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, if you're not using a &lt;code&gt;G29&lt;/code&gt; in your start code you must use the G-code  &lt;code&gt;M420 S1&lt;/code&gt; to enable the stored mesh from memory.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2019-12-21T05:48:54.400" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11599" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-12-21T10:17:42.453" Score="9" ViewCount="2847" Body="&lt;p&gt;I’ve just brought my printer back out after a month and it’s first print created a solid block of resin about 1.5&amp;nbsp;cm deep and the full width and length of the print bed. What could cause this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My only thought so far is that the FEP film / vat bed is looking a little cloudy even after cleaning. I wondered if this could have caused the light to diffuse across the whole bed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gucsU.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gucsU.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19518" LastEditorUserId="19518" LastEditDate="2019-12-21T13:50:18.813" LastActivityDate="2020-07-07T06:15:16.860" Title="What would cause a SLA printer to print a solid block of resin?" Tags="|sla|print-failure|sparkmaker|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11601" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11591" CreationDate="2019-12-21T13:36:22.020" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;My personal technique for removing prints (particularly larger prints) is not to flex the mat at all. Instead, I wait until it's cool and then work the spatula under an edge and move it under the model to basically peel it from the mat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Smaller prints usually pop right off if I start with this technique from one end. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Surface area on the bed (for a single part) is most important to how much work is involved. For example, a raft or brim will greatly increase the surface area.  The spatula is long enough that usually I can reach everywhere under the model so eventually it will pop free. I might have to work around the model a bit before it reaches this point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13594" LastActivityDate="2019-12-21T13:36:22.020" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11602" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11604" CreationDate="2019-12-21T19:02:18.363" Score="1" ViewCount="317" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently purchased &lt;a href=&quot;http://vi.raptor.ebaydesc.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemDescV4&amp;amp;item=301638076307&amp;amp;category=9723&amp;amp;pm=1&amp;amp;ds=0&amp;amp;t=1576805521000&amp;amp;ver=0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;a small stepper motor&lt;/a&gt;  with a hollow shaft, without realizing it ran at 3.8V.  I'm looking for the easiest way to integrate it with the ecosystem around the 12V steppers used in 3d printing, including control by Marlin firmware, and also compatibility with mainstream printer boards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rated specs are as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;&#xA;    2 phase 4 wires&#xA;    1.8 step angle&#xA;    Rated Voltage: 3.8V&#xA;    Rated Current: 0.8A&#xA;    Body Length: 30mm&#xA;    Shaft Diameter: 5mm&#xA;&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have only A4988 drivers, and I was under the impression that those drivers could only work at 12V. I have two &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B07P4LCV8K&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;spare DC-DC buck converters&lt;/a&gt; that could drop a 12V output from something to 3.8V. But I'm not sure what wires to do that for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know that motors have &quot;A&quot; and &quot;B&quot; coils for movement. Do I just use two DC-DC bucks off an A4988 driver to power this thing? So, after the output from the A4988 driver, I would connect 1A and 1B to IN+ and IN- on the DC-DC buck, and 2A 2B on IN+ IN- on the second DC-DC buck. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a better way to integrate this motor into an existing 3D printer board based on RAMPS? I'm using MKS Gen and MKS Sgen boards&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using the pins &lt;em&gt;before&lt;/em&gt; the driver might not be such a good idea if 800 mA is needed to run the printer. I don't know whether those pins connect to 12V or to the microcontroller output. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10369" LastActivityDate="2019-12-21T20:50:50.247" Title="How to use a 3.8V stepper with Marlin / RAMPS?" Tags="|motor|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11604" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11602" CreationDate="2019-12-21T20:50:50.247" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The 3.8&amp;nbsp;V rating does not mean what you think it does. &quot;Rated voltage&quot; has a very specific technical meaning. For a 3D stepper motor to work properly, the rated voltage of the stepper motors actually needs to be significantly lower than the supply voltage of the stepper drivers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These steppers are perfectly compatible with a standard 12V RAMPS setup with A4988 system. You do not need to and should not mess around with buck converters. All you need to do is adjust the potentiometer on your stepper drivers to limit the current to at most 0.8&amp;nbsp;A.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rated voltage in some sense refers to the &lt;em&gt;average&lt;/em&gt; voltage the stepper motor should see, but to actually run them at reasonable speeds you need to supply short bursts of higher voltage. A stepper driver and motor actually form a sort of buck converter themselves, and in some sense do the conversion from 12V to the rated voltage for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastActivityDate="2019-12-21T20:50:50.247" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11605" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-12-22T01:49:00.243" Score="1" ViewCount="262" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been thinking about alternatives to support materials for FDM printers, such as multi axis printers, dual head with soluble support material or printing in a gel/liquid which traps the material in place. Then it occurred to me that it might be possible to use the surface tension of a liquid to act as support material, same way small objects an insect can float on water even though they are heavier than water. This would also work great for cooling the extruded material. NOTE, we are still using a base plate like any other FDM printer, the only difference is that we have a water surface on the build plate which act as support material for large overhangs/steep angles. Everything is still attached to the build plate itself. We are not just printing stand alone parts on the surface of the water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After some highly scientific testing (Dropping an extruded string of PLA and placing a thin printed PLA part on the top of water) I've concluded that it is very feasible to float PLA on the surface tension of water. See picture for refence: &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hikJO.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hikJO.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;PLA floating on surface tension&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you can see the floating structure is not at all trivial, it has both smooth round shapes and many sharp corners and holes in it, it was still extremely simple to get floating (I could drop it in from a height of 5 cm and it would still not break the surface tension).&#xA;I also tried my best to investigate the effects of having structures underneath which might mess up the surface tension by placing larger PLA parts under the floating ring and trying to sink the ring by touching the underside and corners without any success at sinking the floating part. The only way I could get this part to sink was to push it down under water. Even if the surface tension was only broken half way along the ring the ring would still float. If you are thinking that the ring acted as a boat, that is not the case. I made sure to fill the small indents with water so that there were no pockets of air keeping it afloat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An even more encouraging result was another ring which was much thicker than it was wide. It still managed to float from the surface tension on the top side of the structure while the rest of it was submerged, accurately mimicking how the structure would actually be in the water during printing. See picture:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CPQSH.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CPQSH.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Floating PLA ring thick &quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While this ring much easier to sink it was very resistant to being moved around. Again, basically the only way to sink it was to push it down under water, though as soon as the surface tension was broken on one side the whole ring quickly sank.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All this leads me to my question: Does anyone know of a 3D printer which uses the surface tension of water as support material?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've searched around some on the web and I have not really found anything at all on the matter. I can foresee many potential problems (such as the extruder moving unsupported lines to the side when changing direction, layer adhesion, enclosed areas not filling with water etc) but the potential to print without support and only have to worry about keeping the newly extruded material in place could open up a lot of potential.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;UPDATE: I also tried 60 degree Celsius water (In case you need hot water to help with layer adhesion) and the surface tension still was able to float the thicker ring piece, though it felt like the surface tension was weaker.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19381" LastEditorUserId="19381" LastEditDate="2019-12-22T20:52:57.197" LastActivityDate="2020-09-10T09:27:11.223" Title="Surface Tension Support for FDM Printers" Tags="|diy-3d-printer|support-structures|support-material|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11607" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6331" CreationDate="2019-12-22T11:30:42.233" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;it is probably too late for the party but i thought about grid heated bed recently. about controlling which zone to turn on and off, i think we can treat the grid as Led matrix, the matrix led signal can be used to drive mosfets to power the heat pads.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19529" LastActivityDate="2019-12-22T11:30:42.233" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11608" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11610" CreationDate="2019-12-22T15:39:15.720" Score="5" ViewCount="31567" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought an Ender 3 two days ago and assembled it today. I think I did it properly, tested the movement of all axes which works for all axes. Then I performed the calibration as described in the manual. I used a piece of paper and adjusted the bed until it barely fits underneath the nozzle for all four corners. Afterwards, I wanted to print my first model so I selected the cat from the usb stick which came with printer. And now comes my problem. I let the printer run for 15 minutes. It moved and moved and moved but there was no filament on the bed. The nozzle and bed were heated properly. The one thing which I noticed was that the stepper which feeds the filament turns for like 30° and then flips back: to me it looks like the filament can not be fed in. After canceling the print the extruder moves back to the home position which is like 5 mm off the bed and then suddenly the filament flows out of the nozzle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What part of the configuration I'm missing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19531" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-09-18T07:10:20.310" LastActivityDate="2020-09-18T07:10:20.310" Title="Brand new Ender 3 does not extrude any filament during printing" Tags="|filament|creality-ender-3|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11609" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11608" CreationDate="2019-12-22T20:32:27.897" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use Cura on my Anycubic Chiron which I encountered a similar problem with and I was able to resolve the issue by preheating the nozzle to a higher temp. I would test the nozzle and make sure it is feeding properly. What I mean by that is load the filament manually and make sure it comes out. Reason I say this is because the other issue you may be running into is either the nozzle is clogged or it may be too close to the bed for it to come out of the nozzle. This is all speculation but hopefully it helps. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19532" LastActivityDate="2019-12-22T20:32:27.897" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11610" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11608" CreationDate="2019-12-23T04:53:06.943" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am a fairly new user of an Ender 3 and had similar issues on a couple of occasions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main reason was as @0scar suggested - the nozzle was too close to the build plate preventing the filament from exiting - and the back-pressure was causing the filament to jump back, giving the extruder a &quot;shudder&quot; as it slips on the filament. Lower your build plate as suggested by @0scar. The paper should only just drag.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The fact that filament oozes after the hot end/print heads moves to home suggests you don't have a blockage... but you will if you don't adjust this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is better to have the nozzle slightly too high, so the first level does not stick and gradually raise the bed up while you are running the test patterns. Only turn the adjustment knob about 1/8 of a turn before checking - you are dealing in tenths of a millimeter here. Also remember that changing the front setting is going to change the back settings too because the plate will tilt. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19503" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-12-23T08:45:38.037" LastActivityDate="2019-12-23T08:45:38.037" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11611" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11300" CreationDate="2019-12-23T06:18:50.693" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I also have the Ender 3 (pro) and have been getting annoyed by the intro line / priming line on the left of the print area, since I find it difficult to clean off the print bed.  I've now found a way to disable it.  In general I have found that the skirt is enough to prime the extruder, so the intro line doesn't really appear to be necessary (from what I've seen so far).  Although for very small prints the skirt might not be big enough to fully prime the extruder (but this hasn't been the case for anything I've printed so far).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The intro/priming line is part of the &quot;Start G-Code&quot; in the Ender 3 profile in Cura (I'm using version 4.4).  Here's how you can disable it:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;From the Settings menu, select &quot;Printer&quot; and then &quot;Manage Printers&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Click the &quot;Machine Settings&quot; button. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Expand the window under &quot;Start G-code&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Find the following 3 lines of G-code:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;G1 X10.1 Y200.0 Z0.28 F1500.0 E15 ;Draw the first line&#xA;G1 X10.4 Y200.0 Z0.28 F5000.0 ;Move to side a little&#xA;G1 X10.4 Y20 Z0.28 F1500.0 E30 ;Draw the second line&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Add a &lt;code&gt;//&lt;/code&gt; to the start of each line to comment it out (so the printer will ignore it)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19534" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-12-23T06:26:44.883" LastActivityDate="2019-12-23T06:26:44.883" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11612" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-12-23T13:39:19.337" Score="2" ViewCount="2751" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've had my Creality Ender 3 Pro since October 2019. It was running like a dream until about a month ago. The Z-axis started knocking prints off the plate during printing. I've changed mats and worked on adhesion issues. I've switched to a glass plate and triple checked that it is level. I checked to see if it was binding but honestly I couldn't tell. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm at a loss of what to do to troubleshoot and fix the issue. Any suggestions?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It homes fine and manual controls work fine with no issues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19536" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-12-23T16:27:00.430" LastActivityDate="2021-01-09T10:18:12.877" Title="Z-Axis raising and dropping substantially during print knocking print off" Tags="|creality-ender-3|troubleshooting|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11614" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11608" CreationDate="2019-12-23T20:24:14.103" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The stepper motor turning back is retraction. It is a normals process for 3D printers. I suggest you check that the filament is able to extrude at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Using the control panel, go to prep then move axis and move the nozzle up(I forget which axis)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Heat the nozzel up to 200 degrees.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Push filament through the nozzel by hand and see if it extrudes.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If not, check that the nozzel is unblocked.   To unblock the nozzel get a thin needle and clear the hole while still hot. Unless u have a nozzel cleaning tool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it is not blocked the filament may need changing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18867" LastActivityDate="2019-12-23T20:24:14.103" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11616" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11160" CreationDate="2019-12-24T01:54:14.103" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Import them to Tinkercad and then output your combined file from there. You can go into Tinkercad and on the top right side you will see &quot;import&quot;, click that to import your file (you can repeat the process as desired) and it will put the files on the workspace .. on the screen. When you have your workspace all set the way you want select them all the click &quot;export&quot; and it will export all of them to one file for your use. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19543" LastEditorUserId="19543" LastEditDate="2020-01-14T14:40:55.823" LastActivityDate="2020-01-14T14:40:55.823" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11619" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11612" CreationDate="2019-12-24T07:15:50.440" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can you send a link to a short video of the problem occuring? It might be because of multiple factors but we will be able to identify if there's a video of it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Possible reasons:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Z axis nut might be too tight. This would cause the nut to bind with the leadscrew and so the motor will not be able to lift the z-axis further while printing.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Not enough retraction. This would cause filament to ooze from the nozzle during travel moves and this filament would collide with the printed object, causing it to be knocked off. A possible solution for this would be to enable Z-hop in the slider, have the hop distance set to at least 1.5x the layer height you are currently printing with.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Too small of a contact area. This usually happens more often for tall prints. A solution would be to increase brim in the slicer settings (at least 10~15 lines) to increase the adhesion of the print and the bed.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Dirty nozzle. Old prints filament may be stuck on the outer face of the nozzle and might be catching onto the printed part while printing.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11031" LastActivityDate="2019-12-24T07:15:50.440" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11621" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13408" CreationDate="2019-12-24T08:15:56.250" Score="8" ViewCount="26726" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been reading through the Marlin website about ABL (Auto Bed Leveling)  and I see what appears to be conflicting information.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At &lt;a href=&quot;https://marlinfw.org/docs/features/auto_bed_leveling.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://marlinfw.org/docs/features/auto_bed_leveling.html&lt;/a&gt; it states that running &lt;code&gt;G28&lt;/code&gt; (Auto Home) will turn off ABL and that to reactivate it you need to insert the code &lt;code&gt;M420 S1&lt;/code&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However at &lt;a href=&quot;https://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/G029-mbl.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/G029-mbl.html&lt;/a&gt; it states:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;code&gt;G28&lt;/code&gt; disables bed leveling. Follow with &lt;code&gt;M420 S&lt;/code&gt; to turn leveling on, or&#xA;  use &lt;code&gt;RESTORE_LEVELING_AFTER_G28&lt;/code&gt; to automatically keep leveling on after&#xA;  &lt;code&gt;G28&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The latter is referring mostly to manual bed leveling, but in this section is referring to ABL.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So what is the difference between the &lt;code&gt;S&lt;/code&gt; and the &lt;code&gt;S1&lt;/code&gt; options?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19503" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-04-13T21:17:45.770" LastActivityDate="2020-04-14T11:04:35.640" Title="What is the difference between M420 S and M420 S1?" Tags="|marlin|g-code|bed-leveling|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11622" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-12-24T08:22:38.567" Score="4" ViewCount="592" Body="&lt;p&gt;I keep getting a jam where the PTFE tube meets the top of the v6 hot end. I have the PTFE tube all the away in but for some reason it gets a bulge at that spot and will stop printing. It happens with or without retraction. Any ideas?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19251" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-12-24T13:51:33.647" LastActivityDate="2020-01-23T22:00:39.527" Title="Bowden setup keeps jamming between PTFE tube and heatsink" Tags="|bowden|e3d-v6|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11623" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-12-24T08:33:08.883" Score="1" ViewCount="1262" Body="&lt;p&gt;My Anycubic I3 Mega shifts every layer by a little distance making straight model lean to it's side by an angle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, this white round blob should've been a straight up cylindrical shape, but it leans to the right for some reason.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/he94r.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/he94r.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;white blob instead of correct cylinder&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't look at dirty table, it was clean at the start of printing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I was printing this model, I prepared it with Cura 3.2.1 slicer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What could be causing this problem? How it could be fixed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update 1:&lt;/strong&gt; I've tried lowering print speed from 50 to 25 mm/s in Ultimaker Cura 4.4.1. It didn't help. After another test print it seems like it's an X axis problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LKRTR.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LKRTR.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;test print&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tWQIH.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tWQIH.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;closer look&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update 2:&lt;/strong&gt; Result after setting &lt;code&gt;print speed&lt;/code&gt; to &lt;code&gt;10 mm/s&lt;/code&gt; and &lt;code&gt;travel speed&lt;/code&gt; to &lt;code&gt;50 mm/s&lt;/code&gt; (same model, same ABS):&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/311oS.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/311oS.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Low speed =&amp;gt; no shifting&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;Even such slight change to &lt;code&gt;print speed&lt;/code&gt; as &lt;code&gt;15 mm/s&lt;/code&gt; still produces layer shifting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19446" LastEditorUserId="19446" LastEditDate="2020-02-01T20:44:54.387" LastActivityDate="2020-02-01T20:44:54.387" Title="Anycubic i3 Mega layer shifting" Tags="|troubleshooting|calibration|anycubic-i3-mega|x-axis|layer-shifting|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11624" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-12-24T14:26:02.473" Score="1" ViewCount="660" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was using &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3695183&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this model&lt;/a&gt; at 100% infill to test extrusion:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Vz7eq.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Vz7eq.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The printer is an old Printrbot which I converted to Klipper, so I'm doing some tests to ensure correct parameters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;ABS filament 3 mm (not 2.85 mm, measured in multiple points), 230°C hot end (optimised with temperature tower), 100°C glass bed. The extruder was calibrated by extruding a known length of filament. The extrusion was checked by printing a single walled cube and was within tolerance of the caliper I used. I used no cooling fan (except, manually, for the first two layers on top of the support to ensure optimal bridges).I skip cooling with ABS to avoid warping, since the air around is colder (no enclosure).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The top surface comes out perfectly indicating a perfect extrusion multiplier, but the outermost perimeter doesn't bond with the second one, see photo:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lSyiR.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lSyiR.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Something I've never seen before is that the whole print is somehow thicker in a corner where the nozzle stops before raising, and the walls tend to expand with height, so in fact I may have an excessive extrusion, see photos:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EUYsd.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EUYsd.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/p3a7P.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/p3a7P.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TvxRr.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TvxRr.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After removal of support:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HR2qC.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HR2qC.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The settings for slicing are (from the gcode, abridged):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;; generated by PrusaSlicer 2.2.0-alpha2+win64 on 2019-12-23 at 18:44:54 UTC&#xA;; external perimeters extrusion width = 0.45mm&#xA;; perimeters extrusion width = 0.45mm&#xA;; infill extrusion width = 0.45mm&#xA;; solid infill extrusion width = 0.45mm&#xA;; top infill extrusion width = 0.40mm&#xA;; support material extrusion width = 0.40mm&#xA;; first layer extrusion width = 0.30mm&#xA;...&#xA;; avoid_crossing_perimeters = 0&#xA;; bottom_solid_layers = 3&#xA;; external_perimeter_extrusion_width = 0&#xA;; external_perimeter_speed = 50%&#xA;; external_perimeters_first = 0&#xA;; extra_loading_move = -2&#xA;; extra_perimeters = 1&#xA;; extruder_clearance_height = 20&#xA;; extruder_clearance_radius = 20&#xA;; extrusion_multiplier = 1&#xA;; extrusion_width = 0&#xA;; fill_density = 100%&#xA;; fill_pattern = rectilinear&#xA;; first_layer_extrusion_width = 150%&#xA;; first_layer_height = 100%&#xA;; first_layer_speed = 30&#xA;; gap_fill_speed = 20&#xA;; infill_every_layers = 1&#xA;; infill_extrusion_width = 0&#xA;; infill_first = 0&#xA;; infill_only_where_needed = 0&#xA;; infill_overlap = 25%&#xA;; infill_speed = 80&#xA;; interface_shells = 0&#xA;; nozzle_diameter = 0.4&#xA;; only_retract_when_crossing_perimeters = 1&#xA;; ooze_prevention = 0&#xA;; perimeter_acceleration = 0&#xA;; perimeter_extruder = 1&#xA;; perimeter_extrusion_width = 0&#xA;; perimeter_speed = 60&#xA;; perimeters = 2&#xA;; retract_before_travel = 2&#xA;; retract_length = 0.5&#xA;; seam_position = aligned&#xA;; skirt_distance = 2&#xA;; skirt_height = 500&#xA;; skirts = 1&#xA;; small_perimeter_speed = 15&#xA;; top_fill_pattern = rectilinear&#xA;; top_infill_extrusion_width = 0&#xA;; top_solid_infill_speed = 15&#xA;; top_solid_layers = 3&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I solve the problems of the perimeters and of the irregular shape?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2338" LastEditorUserId="2338" LastEditDate="2019-12-24T22:37:45.140" LastActivityDate="2019-12-24T22:37:45.140" Title="How to solve this extrusion problem?" Tags="|troubleshooting|extrusion|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11626" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11622" CreationDate="2019-12-24T21:03:42.370" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Filament sometimes get stuck on the rim of the PTFE tubes inside the heat sink. Josef Prusa from Prusa Research has published a document on how you should chamfer the PTFE tubes for his printers:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DEOmA.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DEOmA.png&quot; alt=&quot;Josef Prusa PTFE tube chamfering&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maybe chamfering your tubes works for you too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2019-12-24T21:03:42.370" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11627" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-12-24T21:34:26.397" Score="1" ViewCount="92" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to custom design and print a medal (sign of chivalry order). I know that I can make 3D design and 3D print it in metal, but are there 3D printing processes that put some layers of enamel in different colors? Possibly with gradual moves among the colors, something like roses in the Brazil Imperial Order of Roses &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Order_of_the_Rose#/media/File:Order_of_the_Rose.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Order_of_the_Rose#/media/File:Order_of_the_Rose.jpg&lt;/a&gt; ? Is it possible to 3D print structure like that?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As I am googling for such process, I have found that there is 3D ceramic printing process and that is very close to the enamel. There is also transparent color 3D printing attempts, so - feel that this may be possible. But I am new to this field and I would like to get some prima facie estimation of the possibility to print such order-like structure in (any) metal plus enamel/ceramic material. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19560" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-12-26T11:26:08.130" LastActivityDate="2019-12-26T11:26:08.130" Title="Is there some 3D printing process that puts enamel layers on the 3D printed metal?" Tags="|color|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11628" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-12-25T06:16:56.770" Score="3" ViewCount="151" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to make a 3D printed copy of a real object. I have access to a Nintendo 3DS which is capable of making 3D .mpo files. Is there a straight-forward method to convert these into a 3D printable model?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19564" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-12-26T07:29:49.743" LastActivityDate="2019-12-26T07:29:49.743" Title="Print copy of real life object, starting with .mpo file or files" Tags="|3d-models|3d-design|scanning|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11632" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-12-28T11:42:45.790" Score="2" ViewCount="5510" Body="&lt;p&gt;I realized that with current Marlin I cannot use Junction Deviation with Linear Advance, see &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/issues/15473&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;code&gt;[BUG] Rapid changes of acceleration break linear advance when using Junction Deviation #15473&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yet, it is very much beneficial to not stop at the corners with high acceleration but rather do a small curve. Is it possible on a G-code level? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a feature or plugin in Cura which replaces sharp corners with arcs to remove need for Junction Deviation in firmware? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18565" LastEditorUserId="18565" LastEditDate="2019-12-30T21:43:16.260" LastActivityDate="2020-02-05T22:15:41.373" Title="Cura's solution to replace corners-&gt;arcs to increase corner speed?" Tags="|marlin|g-code|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="15" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11633" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11576" CreationDate="2019-12-28T18:37:33.050" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Teardrop shape&#xA;ere is a feature there which is inside of the part which you cannot see otherwise. By turning it, you should be able to decipher what these features are for and therefore should be able to&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19597" LastActivityDate="2019-12-28T18:37:33.050" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11634" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11635" CreationDate="2019-12-28T21:09:47.683" Score="5" ViewCount="13858" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to increase adhesion of the first layer (as well as to fill gaps for a more even surface) by squeezing more material against the bed. The obvious way of doing that in Cura is by increasing the &quot;Initial Layer Flow&quot;, i.e. to make the printer push out slightly more material than it normally would.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But then there is also a setting called &quot;Initial Layer Width&quot; and according to the the Cura Settings Guide (see image below), increasing line width will make the nozzle &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;extrude more material and that material has to flow wider outward. This causes the nozzle to press the material harder on the build plate (...) Not only will the lines be wider ... but they will also be farther apart ... by the same factor, so it would not produce overextrusion&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This seems to imply that increasing the initial layer width will automatically &lt;em&gt;also&lt;/em&gt; increase initial layer flow. If this is so, the question is: which setting is applied first? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In any case, it seems that the two settings should not be applied together, if they manipulate the same variable (but I have not seen this recommendation anywhere). Which leads me to my may question: &lt;strong&gt;what is the difference between the two settings?&lt;/strong&gt; More specifically (based on my above reasoning): &lt;strong&gt;what else does &quot;Initial Layer Width&quot; manipulate, apart from the flow rate in the first layer?&lt;/strong&gt; Just the distance between the lines so that increasing the setting will lead to fewer lines?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yzyn4.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yzyn4.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19592" LastActivityDate="2022-04-20T13:03:44.640" Title="What's the difference between &quot;Initial Layer Width&quot; and &quot;Initial Layer Flow&quot; in Cura?" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|adhesion|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11635" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11634" CreationDate="2019-12-28T21:31:05.617" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cura option &lt;code&gt;Initial Layer Width&lt;/code&gt; will cause lines to be further apart or closer together, based on the value you set with respect to the default. The required filament flow to produce these lines is calculated based on the width of the line and the overlap between lines (and layer height).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Cura option &lt;code&gt;Initial Layer Flow&lt;/code&gt; adjusts flow for the current line width with a multiplier, this means that the distance between lines stays the same. I.e. with this parameter you can overextrude to push more material to the build plate. Note that for a well calibrated machine this is not necessary. My printers use the paper method to determine the initial &lt;code&gt;Z=0&lt;/code&gt; for levelling and never use a wider initial line width or overextrusion of the first layer to get perfect filled mirror finish first layers on glass. However, if (paper) tape is used, the bed may be less flat and overextrusion might be beneficial for better adhesion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The options can be used together, the multiplier will act upon the calculated flow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2019-12-28T21:31:05.617" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11636" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11497" CreationDate="2019-12-29T01:40:21.413" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;What worked for me:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;changed SD card from 2&amp;nbsp;GB to 16&amp;nbsp;GB (do not need so much)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;power the pi with 5.4&amp;nbsp;V instead of 5 - 5.1&amp;nbsp;V&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19359" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-12-29T16:59:39.130" LastActivityDate="2019-12-29T16:59:39.130" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11637" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3904" CreationDate="2019-12-29T14:28:47.493" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Though this approach is logical on paper, in the real world it doesnt work as well. Even if you do choose a magic number for the layer height, you cant gurentee that your print head, once homed at the beginning of a print, is using a full step of the motor. Its more common to be on a half step than a full step with a motor&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19604" LastActivityDate="2019-12-29T14:28:47.493" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11638" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11639" CreationDate="2019-12-29T16:55:22.417" Score="7" ViewCount="34615" Body="&lt;p&gt;I printed a model and now I can't remove it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have been chiselling away with a putty knife and made little or no progress.  I even heated the bed up to 70&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C.  That really didn't seem to help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Last time, I put it in vice, and tried to free it that way, but instead I broke the glass.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Suggestion?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16395" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-12-29T21:52:11.870" LastActivityDate="2020-01-10T07:04:19.050" Title="How do I remove a 3D print stuck to the glass build plate" Tags="|post-processing|glass-bed|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11639" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11638" CreationDate="2019-12-29T17:19:07.100" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's useful to know what material you used for the print. Also, you've referenced the glass that broke in the vise, which implies a glass bed, but did you use any adhesive spray or other application?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Allowing for all of this unknown information, there may be a solution for your release. Our library makerspace has a small bottle of 50-50 water/denatured alcohol, although isopropyl alcohol should also work if your glass is not coated with a special film such as PEI. Heat up the surface of the glass to your usual temperature (50-60°C) and apply a few drops of the mixture to the edge of the print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It will evaporate pretty quickly, but some of it will work under the glass/model interface. Apply a bit more while the glass is still warm. Continue to apply until the the evaporation is no longer accelerated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Considering the difficulty you are experiencing, it may be necessary to repeat the heating sequence multiple times in order to get enough wicking of the liquid to effect a release.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastActivityDate="2019-12-29T17:19:07.100" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11640" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-12-29T18:34:06.610" Score="4" ViewCount="513" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to design a &quot;Lifting Table&quot; in OpenSCAD which will consist of 2 concentric cylinders. On the inner cylinder I plan to mount 3 un-powered bevel gears vertically plus a 4th powered  one each at the proper location/angle to interface with external cylinder's spiral bevel gear and keep the external cylinder level. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;OpenSCAD's involute_gears library makes a bevel gear pair that is close to what I need, but the bigger gear is flat instead of a spiral.  How can I get the bigger gear to be a spiral and more than one rotation (level) 720 degrees for example? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19608" LastActivityDate="2020-09-10T01:12:55.210" Title="Spiral bevel gears in OpenSCAD" Tags="|openscad|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11644" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11599" CreationDate="2019-12-30T21:44:45.810" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is the laser (or whatever light source it uses) visible? The cloudy film sounds like a good candidate for light diffusion and thus solidifying the entire resin, but if there are visible components to the light source it may help narrow it down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it uses a projector (&quot;LCD&quot;) solutions, it may also be that the display that filters the light to certain regions of the resin to selectively solidify the print may be at fault, but that's rather unlikely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first thing that, in my &lt;em&gt;opinion&lt;/em&gt;, you should do is to check that the object you are printing does not have a corrupt model file. Assuming that you have spare, fresh resin (if your resin is old, that's actually the most likely issue...) and it wasn't too hard to pry out that block, you could try printing something else that worked in the past.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While it's doing that, you may be able to see where/how it is printing. If the beam diffuses or lights up the whole area, you can tell if it's a printer issue (the film sounds like a good first thing to try replacing in that case). On the other hand, if the resin is old, it's probably just getting oversensitive and your printer is fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The resin is very touchy with these things, and has a shelf life of a few weeks to a few months, and less if it's ever opened.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user14313" LastActivityDate="2019-12-30T21:44:45.810" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11646" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-12-31T15:05:32.257" Score="1" ViewCount="466" Body="&lt;p&gt;The 0.4&amp;nbsp;mm brass nozzle in my Prusa i3 MK3 is worn out - the extrusion hole is visibly larger than the replacement nozzles I have to fit. So I’m trying to replace the nozzle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately the nozzle seems to be stuck in the heater block. So far I’ve tried:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Heating the hotend up to 285&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C, rotating the heater block slightly and trying to unscrew the nozzle with a wrench. (I exactly followed the Prusa YouTube video on changing nozzles).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Leaving the hotend at 285&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C for 15 minutes and trying again - I found some other reports online this had helped. However it made no difference in my case.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In an effort to try and remove the nozzle from the heaterblock, I’ve now accidentally bent the heatbreak, so I’m going to have to replace some or all of hotend. But I need to get the nozzle out, so I know which parts to order - if the nozzle breaks off in the heater block I’m definitely going to need a new heater block as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What else can I try to free a seized nozzle?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the original factory-fitted brass nozzle, and the hot-end was pre-assembled in the kit I received.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7405" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2019-12-31T15:15:58.223" LastActivityDate="2021-02-22T11:14:38.520" Title="E3D V6 nozzle seized into heater block" Tags="|prusa-i3|nozzle|maintenance|e3d-v6|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11647" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-12-31T16:13:17.980" Score="3" ViewCount="310" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have seen several postings in forums about the power connector on some ender 3's being bad and causing issues or just burning out, potentially causing a fire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I tell if I have the bad power connector?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19333" LastActivityDate="2020-09-13T07:49:21.487" Title="How to know if I should replace my power connector?" Tags="|creality-ender-3|hardware|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11648" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11646" CreationDate="2019-12-31T18:15:49.997" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Try to,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, remove the heat block from the extruder/heat sink. Heat the hot end to ~ 230 'C. Then try to unscrew the nozzle while holding the heat block with a wrench or plier. &lt;strong&gt;Be extra careful&lt;/strong&gt; with the heat block and with the plier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16256" LastEditorUserId="16256" LastEditDate="2021-02-22T11:14:38.520" LastActivityDate="2021-02-22T11:14:38.520" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11649" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11647" CreationDate="2019-12-31T21:03:18.957" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you can measure the voltage at the main board where the bed power line is attached, or at the last point in the wiring prior to the connector, then measure the voltage at the bed, you can compare the difference to determine if there is loss related to a failing connector.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One certain indication of a failing connector is to separate the components of the connector and see corrosion, discoloration or any sign of burning. The Robo3d R1+ used 10 ampere connectors and the bed draws 14 amperes, according to the research I've done. When I discovered that information and separated the connector, it was an easy answer, as one side was scorched and the pins on the other were corroded and discolored.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another method, not for everyone, is to use an IR camera and examine the leads carrying the power to the bed. The failing portion will be absorbing some of the power and heating itself, which will show up as a bright portion in the power path.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastActivityDate="2019-12-31T21:03:18.957" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11650" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11688" CreationDate="2019-12-31T21:11:24.947" Score="3" ViewCount="96" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just added inductive sensor to my printer (&lt;code&gt;MKS Gen L Board&lt;/code&gt;) using &lt;code&gt;Marlin 1.1.9&lt;/code&gt;&#xA;After some tweaking it works great!&#xA;The problem is when it starts print the sensor detects the bed and stops the print because it gets triggered.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I tell Marlin to ignore the Z-min readings while printing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17069" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-01-01T15:12:36.230" LastActivityDate="2020-01-06T09:11:54.260" Title="Inductive Sensor Causes Print To Stop" Tags="|marlin|inductive-sensor|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11652" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-01-01T15:34:37.890" Score="2" ViewCount="5638" Body="&lt;p&gt;Why does my 3&amp;nbsp;mm PLA filament always snap near the spool some time (usually a few hours) after a print has finished?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have had it snap mid print but this is quite rare.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have 3 rolls of 3&amp;nbsp;mm PLA filament from Velleman and 3DPrima. They all exhibit this behavior. They are between 2 and 3 years old. Each roll is stored in a foil bag with some desiccant, although this was not the case in the first year. The temperature in the room ranges between 14&amp;nbsp;°C and 18&amp;nbsp;°C in winter and rarely up to 30&amp;nbsp;°C in summer. Current relative humidity is 49&amp;nbsp;%. In summer I think I have seen it as high as 70&amp;nbsp;%. I baked one spool in the oven at about 50&amp;nbsp;°C for a few hours but this does not seam to have helped. When I remove the loose end of filament from the extruder after it has broken, some length of it seams to snap easily and some of it will just bend.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The printer has a direct extruder so there is no bowden tube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19621" LastEditorUserId="8353" LastEditDate="2020-01-03T22:24:22.087" LastActivityDate="2020-07-19T14:46:22.427" Title="Why does my PLA filament keep snapping?" Tags="|pla|filament-quality|print-strength|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11653" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11652" CreationDate="2020-01-01T16:40:49.827" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;PLA seems to become brittle with age. Micro-fractures develop on the surface, and they will grow if filament is taken off the spool and held straight. This behaviour does not seem to be linked to moisture content. The best course of action is probably to use PLA quickly. Don't give it time to age.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3953" LastActivityDate="2020-01-01T16:40:49.827" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11654" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11652" CreationDate="2020-01-01T17:29:07.247" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;When water gets absorbed into the filament, it causes some of the long chain polymers to break. This is a permanent reaction that cannot be fixed by baking the filament, which typically results in the embrittlement of the material. This is true for both the filament and the printed part.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12857" LastActivityDate="2020-01-01T17:29:07.247" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11655" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-01-02T04:37:11.977" Score="1" ViewCount="3248" Body="&lt;p&gt;After a string of one problem after another with both classic jerk and junction deviation in Marlin, and coming to understand that the whole mathematical model for both of them is rather bogus (as I understand it, there's nothing to keep jerk from junctions of multiple tiny segments from accumulating to unbounded near-instantaneous chage in velocity), I kinda want to just disable jerk entirely (set it to zero). But of course this would give really slow printing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I'm wondering, though, is if it makes sense (and if so, how) to try to compute and use an acceleration value sufficiently high to achieve what jerk was trying to achieve, without it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mechanically, if a printer can handle a given jerk without skipping steps or harmful vibration, it should be able to handle acceleration high enough to achieve exactly the same stepping at corners/junctions. However, perhaps acceleration limits also involve current to the motors, heat dissipation at the motors/stepper drivers, or other factors that make &quot;instantaneous&quot; extreme acceleration okay but sustained extreme acceleration bad. (Of course, without extreme max speeds, extreme acceleration should only take place momentarily, in some sense proportional to as much a jerk takes effect.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Am I crazy for thinking about doing this? If not, what would be a good model for determining the appropriate acceleration to try?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2020-05-31T07:04:25.507" Title="Replacing jerk with ridiculously high acceleration?" Tags="|marlin|speed|acceleration|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11656" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11655" CreationDate="2020-01-02T06:55:54.577" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In order to evaluate whether this is possible, it's necessary to realize that following a curved path with &lt;strong&gt;zero&lt;/strong&gt; jerk (in the classic jerk sense) requires stopping and restarting at each junction point in the piecewise-linear approximation of the curve that occurs in the gcode. This is because there's no way to accelerate/decelerate the individual axes continuously through a non-smooth corner. So paradoxically, as the number of segments approximating a curve goes to infinity, speed goes to zero. If the length of any one segment is bounded below by a constant, then acceleration can be chosen high enough to ensure that arbitrarily close to 100% of the segment is at full nominal speed. For example, for a minimum length of 0.1 mm, speed of 60 mm/s, reaching speed in 10% of the nominal segment time (1.6 ms) would take an acceleration of 360000 mm/s². So, not happening.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other hand, with very low but nonzero (classic) jerk, just to handle the matter of smooth curves approximated by small segments, this might be practical. Just looking at 90 degree cornering between segments long enough to run at nominal speed, to match the time spent cornering with 60 mm/s speed, 20 mm/s jerk, and 3000 mm/s² acceleration, it should only take 4500 mm/s² acceleration (original, scaled by 60/(60-20) to account for having to decelerate/accelerate to/from 0 instead of 20). This is completely reasonable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How small can jerk be without breaking motion for approximations of smooth curves? As the number of segments approaches infinity, the lower bound should go to zero. For a circle approximated with 15° steps, one component of the change in velocity looks like it can be around 25%, so &quot;25% of nominal speed&quot; seems to be what you get. Oops. For 60 mm/s, that's 15 mm/s. Not very low at all. I may have gotten this math wrong; I'll review it later. But it doesn't look good for declaring this practical.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2020-01-02T06:55:54.577" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11657" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11779" CreationDate="2020-01-02T16:07:03.003" Score="6" ViewCount="5314" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to build a standing shelf where the supports which hold each successive plank are 3D printed (to obtain special shapes).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I read that &lt;a href=&quot;https://toms3d.org/2018/02/02/things-know-pla/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;PLA flows under constant stress/pressure&lt;/a&gt;. Still, this doesn't stop the author of the article from using PLA for a hanging shelf, which obviously is subjected to constant negative pressure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which material suffers the least from plasticity/non elastic deformation under stress?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Answers with data for multiple materials are welcome.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found that the phenomenon is called &quot;creep&quot; and is related to ISO 899, but I couldn't find any data for the common filament plastics and I don't know the theory behind it, so I'm not sure whether it's unavoidable or it appears after a threshold stress is reached.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Information&lt;/strong&gt;: it's a living room shelf which will hold books and other stuff and is supposed to last a decade. I will of course add a safety factor and I could even fix the planks to the wall (in hidden places), but ideally the 3D printed material should have NO creep.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2338" LastEditorUserId="2338" LastEditDate="2020-01-03T10:29:46.437" LastActivityDate="2020-01-15T17:54:51.240" Title="Which material &quot;creeps&quot; (plastic deformation) the least (or nothing at all) under pressure after being printed?" Tags="|material|print-strength|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11658" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11666" CreationDate="2020-01-02T17:08:24.880" Score="2" ViewCount="1081" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was experimenting with building an enclosure using fusion 360.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was wondering if a part with rounded corners of a larger radius would warp less than smaller ones?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, any recommendation on reading material would be appreciated!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4408" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2020-01-02T21:06:17.710" LastActivityDate="2020-01-03T19:10:59.227" Title="Does having more curvier corners help warping more then smaller curves" Tags="|3d-models|fusion360|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11659" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-01-02T18:36:29.700" Score="7" ViewCount="4617" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm new to 3D printing, but have been having relative success with the Ender 5 Pro and Cura.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm making some coasters and using the ironing feature to smooth out the top layer. This is mostly working great, but there are lines left on the surface, consistent between identical prints. They appear to be seams between different ironed areas. They form when one continuously ironed area finishes, the nozzle leaves that area, then an adjacent area is ironed later, forming a seam between them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm using the default ironing settings, on only the top layer. I have no clue what settings might be causing this, or if this is an avoidable issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas from more experienced printers?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Y4yzF.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Y4yzF.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19640" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2020-01-02T21:05:38.903" LastActivityDate="2020-08-03T21:23:16.517" Title="Lines appearing during ironing" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|creality-ender-5|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11660" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-01-02T21:03:46.260" Score="0" ViewCount="625" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cura consistently under-estimates my print times. I know I'm not alone here, but I've also noticed it seems most of the difference comes from travel and retraction times... that is, if I re-slice an object to minimize those operations the accuracy of the estimate improves. Also, the estimates seem more accurate for objects which require less travel and retraction than those which require more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a way in Cura to adjust how it counts time for those operations, and thereby improve the accuracy of my time estimates?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12562" LastEditorUserId="12562" LastEditDate="2020-01-02T22:45:05.357" LastActivityDate="2020-01-02T22:45:05.357" Title="Tuning time estimates in Cura" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|slicing|estimation|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11661" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7831" CreationDate="2020-01-02T21:59:45.243" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have had moderate success with a product called &lt;a href=&quot;https://googone.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Goo Gone&lt;/a&gt; (don't laugh). It quite remarkably lifts off any number of &quot;sticky&quot; items from various surfaces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I work with PLA filament that is very hard and stubborn to remove from any surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I own a FlashForge Adventurer 3 that appears to have a carbon fiber build plate. Nothing, except a #11 XActo blade, can harm that. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19642" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-01-02T22:41:28.007" LastActivityDate="2020-01-02T22:41:28.007" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11662" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-01-02T23:20:43.460" Score="2" ViewCount="1885" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've just built my first 3D printer. It uses a Bowden setup. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I try to print the extruder starts fine, but after a few seconds the extruder motor start skipping and the nozzle is jammed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried a cold pull, but it didn't help. I removed the PTFE tube and tried to push the filament with my hand, it works but at the start I need the push harder but after it flows fine. But if I reinstall the Bowden setup, it works fine for a few minutes, but after a few seconds it starts again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note I am using silver PLA at 200-205&amp;nbsp;°C. I tried to raise the temperature to 215&amp;nbsp;°C, but it also jammed, and the filament what after I pushed out was black (it is a new hotend and I never used black filament before), like it was burned (if it is possible).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19643" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-01-03T21:24:26.633" LastActivityDate="2020-01-07T22:47:34.197" Title="My 3D printer hotend always jams" Tags="|diy-3d-printer|reprap|desktop-printer|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11663" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11659" CreationDate="2020-01-02T23:47:30.537" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's a couple of Cura settings that can help, that I know of:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;In the 'Travel' section, change &quot;Combing Mode&quot; to &quot;not in skin&quot;. Combing means it tries to move the head over areas that have already been printed. This is a good thing most of the time, but if it does it while it's ironing, it will make an annoying line. (I am not sure why this isn't automatically turned off for the ironing pass, but it seems it isn't.)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;After enabling ironing, an option &quot;Ironing Pattern&quot; appears. Try changing this to &quot;concentric.&quot; This produces a different pattern, which you may or may not like, but it seems less susceptible to those kinds of lines appearing.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are some other settings that might help. I'm suggesting these on the assumption that some of the lines are caused by the print head travelling over the ironed surface, which is what it looks like to me from your photo. I got them from &lt;a href=&quot;https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/52507-travel&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this Cura documentation page&lt;/a&gt;, but it doesn't mention ironing, so I can't be completely sure whether they will affect the ironing step.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&quot;Avoid printed parts when travelling&quot; - this might help a bit more than just turning off combing, since it will try to go around the printed areas instead of just cutting across them. Apparently you have to &lt;em&gt;enable&lt;/em&gt; combing for this to work.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&quot;Z hop when retracted&quot; and &quot;Z hop only over printed parts.&quot; This should make it lift the print head up when it can't avoid crossing the printed part. It may be that you have to enable retraction, combing, and/or &quot;Avoid printed parts when travelling&quot; for these to appear.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="612" LastEditorUserId="612" LastEditDate="2020-01-03T10:41:33.770" LastActivityDate="2020-01-03T10:41:33.770" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11664" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11662" CreationDate="2020-01-02T23:51:16.107" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is useful to diagnose your problem if you provide more information, specifically what material you are using and what temperature you are using on your hot end.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even without the above information, it is likely that the hot end temperature is too low. At a low setting, the filament in the nozzle will soften, perhaps even melt as deeply as needed to be extruded, but as new filament is provided by the extruder motor, it also cools the heater block.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By increasing the temperature, you're ensuring there is sufficient thermal energy to handle the incoming cold material.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It would be useful to increase your nozzle temperature by 5°C for each test. Despite matching your controller's temperature to the manufacturer's specification, you can not be certain that the temperature at the nozzle and heat block are what you have programmed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastActivityDate="2020-01-02T23:51:16.107" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11665" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11662" CreationDate="2020-01-03T17:54:55.830" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Extruder clogging is, at its root, a matter of too much backpressure at the hotend. There are a number of more specific causes, but it very simply comes down to the fact that the printer cannot feed the filament through the hotend as fast as the extruder is pushing it in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Things to check, pretty much in the order they should be checked/performed for a brand-new printer:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Extruder stepper calibration.&lt;/strong&gt; With new printers based on RepRap firmware (Enders, Prusas, pretty much any printer in the \$200-\$400 range these days), one of the first things you have to do after assembly is to calibrate your E-stepper (the motor that drives filament through the extruder). The printer is given commands based on millimeters of movement, including the feeding of filament, and it has to translate those into finite steps of the motors. If those steps don't actually move the extruder or the filament as much as expected, the printer will behave poorly, including clogging. E-stepper calibration is pretty easy, especially on Bowden extruders; you basically disconnect the Bowden tube at either end, load filament through the stepper, cut it off flush with the end of the tube or the coupling, then tell the printer to extrude 100&amp;nbsp;mm of filament. Cut it off flush again and measure, and if it's not 100&amp;nbsp;mm, look for a command beginning with &lt;code&gt;M92&lt;/code&gt; in your printer configuration (it can be in the settings of your actual printer or a configuration script in your slicer software that gets tacked on to the front of the G-code files generated for use with that printer), and adjust the value you see after the &lt;code&gt;E&lt;/code&gt; in that command by multiplying it by 100, then dividing by the millimeters of filament actually extruded in the test. Rinse and repeat until the printer is feeding the amount of fil you tell it to.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Bed height/leveling.&lt;/strong&gt; This may not sound like it has anything to do with extruder clogs, but in truth, if your extruder is too close to the print bed at any point during the first layer, it can very easily clog the extruder by not allowing enough material to flow out the nozzle to keep up with what's being fed in. Bed leveling is a key step in print prep, and every printer behaves best with subtle changes to the bed leveling procedure. My guess is that you need to re-level for a slightly higher &quot;zero-Z&quot; above the build plate. If you're using the sheet-of-paper method, either use a thicker piece of paper, or go for less friction as you pass the paper between the nozzle and build plate. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Nozzle diameter settings.&lt;/strong&gt; The standard nozzle tip diameter is 0.4&amp;nbsp;mm, however there are others. Your slicer probably expects the standard diameter as a default, so if you're running a 0.3, 0.2 or 0.1&amp;nbsp;mm nozzle for finer detail, the slicer has to be told that so it can adjust the filament feed rate. Otherwise it'll be jamming up to 16 times as much filament into that hotend as it should be. This isn't likely to be your problem but it's something to check; most extruder nozzles these days have the tip diameter engraved or pressed into the side of the nozzle, and if yours is unlabeled, try heading to the local music store and buying a single 0.013&quot; guitar string (typically sold as a high E for acoustics). If that wire end easily fits through the extruder nozzle, you have a 0.4&amp;nbsp;mm, if it does not, it's something smaller.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Extruder clog/obstruction.&lt;/strong&gt; That guitar string I mentioned makes a really good extruder cleaner. Just feed it through the extruder tip and gently push it up through the hotend till it pops out the top of the extruder, then feed it back and forth a bit to &quot;floss&quot; the extruder tip, cleaning out any minor carbon buildup. If you can't feed the wire completely through the extruder body from either direction, that's probably your problem, and fixes range anywhere from a little more pressure with the wire, to a narrow drill bit carving out the obstruction, up to removing the entire heat block from the printer, putting it on or in something that won't burn, and blasting it with a soldering torch to burn out the obstruction, followed (after letting it cool) by a bath in some acetone to dissolve any remaining gunk.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Gunked-up extruder hobb.&lt;/strong&gt; The toothed wheel attached to the extruder stepper is called the &quot;hobb&quot; (you may hear it called a gear, but it's really not one as it doesn't mesh with another gear). As the printer feeds filament, especially if you've had jamming problems, the hobb's teeth will fill with shavings from the filament it feeds through. This can cause the hobb to slip against the filament, which not only reduces the pressure of the filament being pushed through the extruder, it accelerates the accumulation of gunk on the hobb. A short blast of canned air is usually all you need to clean the hobb; if it still looks pretty caked up, a toothbrush will sort it out. While you're at it, check the idler to be sure it's still spinning freely.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Filament type/brand/age.&lt;/strong&gt; You mentioned it's &quot;silver PLA&quot;; the silver stuff I have is actually a &quot;silk PLA&quot; product, that sheathes the PLA in a jacket of another plastic (often PET) for that high-gloss appearance. These kinds of filaments can be very temperamental, as can filaments with glitter or fiber aggregate in them (also common in metallic fil colors). You have to have the printer settings dialed in just right, and some of these products just don't work well at all in some printers. Try getting some very basic, brand-name PLA filament like Hatchbox, ColorFabb, MatterHackers, MakerBot, etc, in a good primary color (avoid black or white; the color saturation affects how easily the stuff extrudes at a given temp), no silk finish or other modification. If that prints well, the suspect becomes the silver fil.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Extruder temperature.&lt;/strong&gt; You're printing at 200-205&amp;nbsp;°C, which is usually good, but if you're getting problems, the first thing to do with PLA is to try printing &lt;em&gt;cooler&lt;/em&gt;, not hotter. Case in point, getting PLA too hot can cause it to fully melt and drizzle out (vacating the extruder and causing it to overheat the fil further up, jamming the melt tube), it can gum up (directly clogging the extruder nozzle), and it can carbonize (as you see it doing at 215). If you're already flirting with burning your PLA at 10 degrees hotter, you are probably running too hot. Try backing off to 195 or 190 and see if that helps any.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19313" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-01-03T21:18:19.463" LastActivityDate="2020-01-03T21:18:19.463" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11666" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11658" CreationDate="2020-01-03T19:10:59.227" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;In short, yes, it helps a little. Curves provide less surface area per unit volume (a sphere has the least possible surface area relative to the volume of the solid), and that reduces the rate at which the material in that corner will cool relative to elsewhere in the print, and also changes how the material can deform if and when it does cool unevenly. Uneven cooling of fine features, including sharp corners, is what causes warpage, as these areas typically cool faster than others. The curve also helps with bed adhesion, as the more rounded corner is more easily kept down on the bed by the various forces within the object and in the bed adhesion. Sharper corners depend more on the surface area under the corner itself to keep the piece properly stuck to the bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, it's not a panacea. It's not always possible, for one; it's usually an option when CADing a &quot;green field&quot; design for a household item or other standalone product, but if you're making a replacement part for an existing device, or printing a figurine or other detailed model, you usually have to take the curves (and edges) that design gives you. Also, if you radius an outer edge of a hollow shape, but don't radius the inner corner to keep the material thickness constant, you'll end up with similar cooling problems as the apex of that edge cools fastest.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Strategies for avoiding warping are along a couple common lines, but exactly how you implement that strategy depends on the material and on the printer. One overarching strategy is to increase print surface adhesion; the stronger the part sticks to the bed everywhere on its first layer, the harder it will be for corners to lift. Exact techniques depend on the print material, but many of them, like blue painter's tape, Elmer's glue and hairspray, work well for several filament types. Adjusting the printed shape, to print a brim around the shape's base or even a raft under the entire object, are also common anti-warping strategies. The tradeoff is that the stronger the bed adhesion, the harder the part will be to remove from the build surface when complete, which depending on your print bed construction can cause more problems than the warping. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Blue tape is nice because it's cheap to buy and easy to apply to the bed surface, both of which mean you don't have to worry too much about damaging the tape as you remove the part, just strip the tape and put down another layer. But, it doesn't work for all filament materials; the only thing I've found that really works well for ABS, for instance, is kapton tape, which is significantly more expensive and takes a lot of effort to lay down a wrinkle-free, bubble-free layer over the entire print bed for a large part (especially on my MakerBot, which doesn't have a removable build surface on it, so I'm laying this tape down in cramped quarters within the printer enclosure). A glass surface painted with ABS slurry is an option I've not yet had opportunity to try for ABS printing, but plenty of people swear by it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cooling, especially uneven cooling rates, are another major contributor, but again, exactly how you deal with cooling depends on the material. Most plastics, especially PLA, tend to work best when you keep things as cool as possible; the coolest extruder temp that reliably feeds fil, the coolest bed temp that reliably sticks, part cooling fan turned up, and even a standing or box fan blowing through the entire work area to put as much air over the part as possible. What this does is to get the PLA down onto the print surface as a hot &quot;putty&quot;, then immediately &quot;freeze&quot; that bead of plastic as a solid as the heat's removed, so the bead can't shrink as it cools more gradually. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, with ABS, this cooling strategy doesn't work, and in fact it's the &lt;em&gt;worst&lt;/em&gt; thing you can do to an ABS print. The material is much more elastic than PLA, which is quite brittle, and has no true melting temperature, with a very hot glass transition temp. So, as it's laid down, the extruded beads quickly put the part under elastic tension as it cools. Shrinkage is a fact of life with ABS; the only thing you can do is to control the shrinkage by controlling the part cooling, so the part cools and shrinks evenly. ABS calls for a hot print bed for good adhesion, which will keep the first few layers warmer longer, but higher layers of the print will be further from that heat source, so if there's air moving over or within the work volume, these higher layers will cool more rapidly, at which point it really doesn't matter how good your surface adhesion is (I've seen prints split halfway up the model to relieve the tension by warping). So for ABS, a heat enclosure is pretty much a must. My MakerBot is built that way (in fact it's designed for ABS printing and works better with ABS than with PLA, which is supposed to be the more user-friendly material of the two), but most of your open-gantry RepRap-type designs will need something built around it, usually with a separate heating element to heat the work volume more than the bed is capable of doing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19313" LastActivityDate="2020-01-03T19:10:59.227" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11667" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11674" CreationDate="2020-01-03T21:08:53.273" Score="4" ViewCount="1115" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm using a Prusa i3 MK3S printer. After ~8 months of printing PLA, PET-G, ABS I decided to buy some HIPS and print something with it. I cannot print &gt;1 filaments at once, so I'm not using it as a support for ABS, &lt;strong&gt;I want to create some high durability working models, like gears, robot parts etc.&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While the quality of my models is perfect, unfortunately their &lt;strong&gt;strength is disappointingly low. They easily undergo plastic deformation or break.&lt;/strong&gt; I've tried lots of settings, some yielding better or worse results, but the problem is present regardless.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My settings:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Printer: Prusa i3 MK3S&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Nozzle: Default 0.4&amp;nbsp;mm nozzle for Prusa&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Layer Height: 0.2-0.3&amp;nbsp;mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Temperature: 230-240&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C nozzle, 100-110&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C bed&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Slicer: PrusaSlicer 2.0.0&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've read lots of tutorials regarding HIPS printing and they did not give me the answer to my question...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Am I doing something wrong or is it normal for High Impact PolyStyrene? At this point, the &lt;em&gt;High Impact&lt;/em&gt; Polystyrene seems less &lt;em&gt;High Impact&lt;/em&gt; than generic PLA.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16798" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-01-07T12:10:29.177" LastActivityDate="2021-11-08T13:58:26.940" Title="Very low strength of HIPS prints - Why?" Tags="|filament|3d-models|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11668" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11300" CreationDate="2020-01-03T21:49:56.803" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;These are features, not bugs. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The line off to the left is the &quot;priming line&quot;; the printer is extruding a bead of material to ensure that any oozing is cleaned off of the filament tip, and that the filament is properly pressed into the hotend and flowing consistently from the nozzle, before beginning your print. Notice how plastic didn't start extruding on the &quot;backstroke&quot; until the extruder had almost reached the back of the plate? If you didn't have that priming line, that material would have been missing from your print's first layer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The ring around your print is the &quot;skirt&quot;. The skirt also helps to prime the extruder, and allows you a quick look at your first layer printing behavior before the printer begins printing your actual part. Is your build plate level? Is the nozzle clearance correct? Is the filament adhering well to your bed prep? Are your build plate size and offsets set up properly in the slicer (or are you about to try to print off the edge of your plate)? A skirt can help you determine all these things very quickly, like before the printer starts working over the actual print area, giving you a chance to correct them on-the-fly or at least quickly cancel the print, and it uses a minimum of material to do so compared to a more substantial plate adhesion aid like a brim or raft.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can disable or alter the behavior of both of these in your slicer software; exactly how depends on the slicer software. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In Ultimaker's Cura, which comes fairly highly recommended for use with Creality printers like the Ender 3, the priming line is part of the pre-print configuration script in the printer settings, and you'll need to have a working knowledge of GCode to mess with that. GCode isn't terribly difficult, but it was designed for computers to generate more than for humans to comprehend, and incorrect GCode commands in this section can cause printer firmware errors, failed prints and can even damage your printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The skirt settings are part of the slicer settings for your specific print, under the &quot;Platform Adhesion&quot; section. You can typically choose to print a skirt, a brim (similar concept but it extends all the way in to the outline of the part's first layer, and helps hold the part on the plate while it prints), a raft (a more complex adhesion aid where the printer will lay down several layers of material as a foundation for the actual print), or nothing at all. You can also customize the settings of each of these to create a larger or smaller skirt or brim.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally, I keep both of these print features enabled for almost all prints on my Ender 3 Pro; the only time I disable the skirt is either when I want a brim (small parts like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.3dbenchy.com/download/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;3DBenchies&lt;/a&gt; print more reliably with a brim) or when the skirt just won't fit on the build plate (which usually means the part has a large enough footprint not to go anywhere during the print), and the only time I mess with the priming line is when I need that area of the build plate for the actual print. These features cost you maybe a penny or two in filament and can save you far more than that in frustration and wasted plastic on failed or imperfect prints.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19313" LastEditorUserId="19313" LastEditDate="2020-01-03T21:55:14.563" LastActivityDate="2020-01-03T21:55:14.563" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11669" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-01-03T22:29:59.847" Score="2" ViewCount="147" Body="&lt;p&gt;I stopped using my Monoprice Maker Ultimate (re-branded Wanahao Duplicator 6) for a couple of weeks and am getting a seemingly random drift with all my prints now when re-attempting printing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also noticed a weird stutter when the extruder moves. It is particularly bad in one specific direction on the X-axis but is noticeable for all movement in the XY plane. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have read online that this could be caused by voltage issues. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have also read that it could be caused by over-tightened XY bearings but, given that it is happening in all directions, I am leaning more towards voltage issues. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not sure if the drift and stuttering are related (I'd imagine they must be, but have no way of confirming). Would anyone be able to help provide troubleshooting steps for this as I am still very new to 3d printing? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have provided a photo of what the drift looks like for &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2253091&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this test model&lt;/a&gt;. I can provide more information if necessary. Thank you&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wTKYc.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wTKYc.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Drift image&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19649" LastActivityDate="2020-01-04T19:42:19.660" Title="Drift and stuttering on prints" Tags="|desktop-printer|y-axis|axis|monoprice-maker-ultimate|x-axis|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11670" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11667" CreationDate="2020-01-03T22:36:03.097" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The primary use of HIPS in 3D printing is to create sacrificial supports, which you're aware of. The material dissolves in lemon oil, making it popular for printing dense supports within complex shapes that can then be easily removed just by spraying the part down with Orange Clean.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would not expect HIPS material sold for 3D printing use to have much if any strength, especially for moving parts. Outside 3D printing, most uses of the material are in expanded foam products like bike helmets, flotation products etc, and these applications require pressure-molding, which creates a higher-density object and hardens the foam's outer layer to make it tough enough for everyday use. Just extruding the stuff out into the open air gives you the same density (and strength) as a packing peanut.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want a styrene-type material that's strong, tough and relatively light, I'd stick with ABS. If you're looking for a challenge in a similar material, try nylon; it creates a lower-friction surface, is very tough but pliable, and its hygroscopy requires very careful handling of the filament (in some more humid climates, you have to feed it from a dry box through PTFE tubing straight into the printer; even the time out in the air between the box and the extruder is enough to get hydrolysis-related issues). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you really want to print HIPS foam gears, the only thing I can suggest you try is an epoxy coating to give the object a harder shell while retaining the light weight. My wife does custom-applique vacuum tumblers (but who doesn't nowadays; my wife's making more money selling other people the supplies and equipment to do it), and her favorite stuff to use is &lt;a href=&quot;https://artresinfauxrizzle.com/faux-rizzle-art-resin/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Faux Rizzle&lt;/a&gt;; very durable, odorless, easy to mix and apply, and relatively inexpensive (many other art resins sell for about double what you can get FR for). Good luck to you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19313" LastEditorUserId="19313" LastEditDate="2020-01-09T14:46:19.527" LastActivityDate="2020-01-09T14:46:19.527" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11671" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11450" CreationDate="2020-01-04T00:28:27.233" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Wait, you have your Z-height at a negative 1&amp;nbsp;mm+ offset for the first layer? &lt;em&gt;After&lt;/em&gt; a build plate leveling? I'm surprised your extruder isn't gouging long trenches in your plate surface. Then again, this is a Prusa, they are actually capable of negative offsets from their &quot;zero&quot; unlike many other printers where &quot;zero&quot; is when the microswitch engages at the bottom of the lead screw travel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the description of your problem, and what you're printing, my diagnosis is improper bed prep, possibly coupled with some alignment issues. Prusas, unfortunately, fall out of adjustment almost constantly; in addition to usual bed alignment requirements, the dual lead rods have to be kept in perfect alignment at all times, which among other things means you have to be really careful manhandling the printer to get things off the build plate. Your first video shows a pretty decent extrusion line at first, with problems occurring as you get close to the front right corner, which tells me that corner is a bit low, and &lt;em&gt;maybe&lt;/em&gt; the gantry or the entire right side of the plate is backed off too far.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your second video has the extruder &lt;em&gt;way&lt;/em&gt; too close. Even if you're printing a 0.15&amp;nbsp;mm or 0.1&amp;nbsp;mm layer height, that is far too thin a layer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bed prep, however, is likely the bigger issue. You're compensating for the layer not sticking by moving the extruder closer. That's a possible solution, but you've exhausted that as an option; your extruder's right down on the plate in that first print picture and it's still not sticking. That means the plate is dirty, which if you just spent several minutes prying tokens off the build surface, is only to be expected. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Plate surface preparation is something you need to at least look at between &lt;em&gt;every single print&lt;/em&gt;. Some prep methods are more durable than others; I've printed dozens of prints on a single layer of kapton tape (which is good, because getting a wrinkle-free, bubble-free layer of kapton down on a non-removable print bed in an enclosed printer design like the MakerBot 2X is a real chore), meanwhile hairspray or blue painter's tape, while easy to apply, might have to be reapplied after every print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Exactly what you do depends on the build surface and the material you're printing, but the absolute minimum you should be doing, if you print directly on your build surface with zero bed adhesive, is to clean and degrease the bed every time. A little isopropyl alcohol (rubbing alcohol) or denatured alcohol (&quot;methylated spirits&quot; for those speaking the King's English) is usually the thing to use, with a paper towel or microfiber cloth and a little elbow grease to really cut any grease layer on that surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It may well be that with this Prusa, you will have to give the plate a wipedown with denatured alcohol and then re-check the bed's calibration between every single print. Such is the nature of these RepRap-style printers, developed specifically to make 3D printing more affordable at which they succeed admirably; the tradeoff is the \$300 printers take a bit more futzing with, while the \$3000 printers are designed specifically to minimize hands-on work. But even on a \$6000 industrial printer, you have to prep the bed for each print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19313" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-01-04T06:18:51.230" LastActivityDate="2020-01-04T06:18:51.230" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11673" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15527" CreationDate="2020-01-04T12:28:15.630" Score="3" ViewCount="5739" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm having a problem getting a clean first layer on an Ender 3 with BLTouch auto bed leveling. Thickness seems to fluctuate all over the bed, but in a consistent (repeatable) way. Here's my attempt to print a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2187071&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;single layer 5 square bed calibration test&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bKYFc.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bKYFc.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Full bed&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;I stopped the print midway through filling the first square, but you get the idea. Lines go from too low so no filament comes out to too high.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I printed this several (many) times with slight settings tweaks and it looks pretty much the same every time; the ups and downs aren't random. For example, the center square always is always too low on the left and too high on the right:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2wI8h.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2wI8h.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Center square&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The printer is a SainSmart Ender 3 Pro with a BLTouch V3.1 and Creality glass bed, otherwise stock. I flashed a bootloader and Marlin 2.0 using the &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/3d-printing-canada/Ender-3-BL-Touch-Installation&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;instructions and pre-compiled firmware&lt;/a&gt; from 3D Printing Canada. I'm using the glass bed upside-down on the plain glass side (no coating).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I pre-heated and leveled the four corners manually using the paper method. I auto-homed and then lowered the hot end until it would just catch a piece of paper and used that height to set the Z offset using M851 and saved it with M500. It's currently set at -2.80.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I added &lt;code&gt;G29&lt;/code&gt; to GCode start in Cura, and it does a 3x3 probe before the print starts. Here's the output when I run &lt;code&gt;M420 V&lt;/code&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Bilinear Leveling Grid:&#xA;      0      1      2&#xA; 0 -0.207 +0.172 +0.162&#xA; 1 -0.100 -0.160 +0.220&#xA; 2 -0.118 +0.215 +0.295&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's what it looks like in the Bed Visualizer plug-in in Octoprint:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Vy4YI.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Vy4YI.png&quot; alt=&quot;Bed visualization&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I understand this right (dubious) it's showing that the glass is lower toward the front and left, highest at back-right. But it's only 0.4mm from the lowest to highest points. And the whole point of mesh leveling is to compensate for this anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At Paulster's suggestion I turned off mesh leveling using &lt;code&gt;M420 S0&lt;/code&gt;, leveled manually, and printed again. The result is pretty similar (note that this time I let it run all the way through):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hwWJ1.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hwWJ1.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Second print without mesh leveling&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Where should I start looking to diagnose this problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I noticed my X-axis belt was a bit loose, so I tightened it up. It seems to have helped with the odd Z slanting. My test print is still not great though, so this may not be the whole problem. Also I've never seen this effect listed as one caused by loose belts, so it's dubious as the cause. Here's the current test print after tightening the belt:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RWlJd.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RWlJd.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Updated test print&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1deao.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1deao.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Closeup test print&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's flatter, but I'm still getting (I think) under-extrusion and some odd wobbles at the corners.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16902" LastEditorUserId="16902" LastEditDate="2020-01-08T09:31:37.170" LastActivityDate="2021-02-01T18:42:35.387" Title="Ender 3 with BLTouch prints slanted lines" Tags="|creality-ender-3|bed-leveling|bltouch|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11674" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11667" CreationDate="2020-01-04T13:53:57.983" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It might. If HIPS is a single material with consistent properties, it might have a narrower temperature range.  Online references suggest up to 240&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C. Try that, then 245 and 250&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C. Maybe higher. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2082" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-01-07T12:11:38.040" LastActivityDate="2020-01-07T12:11:38.040" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11675" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11669" CreationDate="2020-01-04T19:42:19.660" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I shook off my laziness and disassembled the mounts holding the stepper motors and tightened the belts. After doing so the drift was resolved. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19649" LastActivityDate="2020-01-04T19:42:19.660" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11676" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3134" CreationDate="2020-01-04T20:09:52.320" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;in my case there were random shifting and I found the motor is getting very warm .. so when I lowered the driver voltage it didn't get as warm and the skipping and shifting just stopped. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19655" LastActivityDate="2020-01-04T20:09:52.320" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11677" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-01-04T21:15:45.583" Score="3" ViewCount="8718" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is driving me up the wall, hope somebody can give me some advice...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have an Anet A8 (metal frame, so 'AM8').  Bed is the original 220x220&amp;nbsp;mm.  When the nozzle is at the X/Y end stops it is positioned 16&amp;nbsp;mm 'west' away from the bed (in free space) in the x-axis, and 5&amp;nbsp;mm 'north'.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem I'm having is with the &lt;code&gt;X_BED_SIZE&lt;/code&gt; (surely 220) and &lt;code&gt;X_MIN_POS&lt;/code&gt; settings. I keep falling into either the nozzle home a long way from the center (should be 110,110), or getting a message about end stops being too narrow for the bed.  Given my sizings above, what should the following be?:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;// @section machine&#xA;&#xA;// The size of the print bed&#xA;#define X_BED_SIZE 220&#xA;#define Y_BED_SIZE 220&#xA;&#xA;// Travel limits (mm) after homing, corresponding to endstop positions.&#xA;#define X_MIN_POS 0&#xA;#define Y_MIN_POS 0&#xA;#define Z_MIN_POS 0&#xA;#define X_MAX_POS X_BED_SIZE&#xA;#define Y_MAX_POS Y_BED_SIZE&#xA;#define Z_MAX_POS 240&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19656" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2020-01-13T15:29:56.540" LastActivityDate="2020-09-20T18:38:39.657" Title="Bed size and nozzle homing offset in Marlin 1.1.9 firmware" Tags="|marlin|anet-a8|firmware|homing|bed|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11678" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11677" CreationDate="2020-01-04T22:26:57.120" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The original Anet A8 has:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&#xA;// The size of the print bed&#xA;#define X_BED_SIZE 220&#xA;#define Y_BED_SIZE 220&#xA;&#xA;// Travel limits (mm) after homing, corresponding to endstop positions.&#xA;#define X_MIN_POS -33&#xA;#define Y_MIN_POS -10&#xA;#define Z_MIN_POS 0&#xA;#define X_MAX_POS X_BED_SIZE&#xA;#define Y_MAX_POS Y_BED_SIZE&#xA;#define Z_MAX_POS 240&#xA;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So in your case it would be:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&#xA;// The size of the print bed&#xA;#define X_BED_SIZE 220&#xA;#define Y_BED_SIZE 220&#xA;&#xA;// Travel limits (mm) after homing, corresponding to endstop positions.&#xA;#define X_MIN_POS -16&#xA;#define Y_MIN_POS -5&#xA;#define Z_MIN_POS 0&#xA;#define X_MAX_POS X_BED_SIZE&#xA;#define Y_MAX_POS Y_BED_SIZE&#xA;#define Z_MAX_POS 240&#xA;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tuning the bed to print exactly in the middle so that large prints fit on the build plate is described in question: &lt;a href=&quot;/q/6375/&quot;&gt;&quot;How to center my prints on the build platform? (Re-calibrate homing offset)&quot;&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2020-01-04T22:26:57.120" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11679" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11683" CreationDate="2020-01-05T03:28:35.993" Score="3" ViewCount="6517" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm getting wavy lines on the first layer only in both the x and y direction identically.  The first layer is 0.4 mm with a 0.4 mm tip. The other layers are 0.2 mm.  I've tried changing the Z offset all the way from -1.2 to 0.5 mm.  I've tried changing the hot end leveling the heated bed.  None of these changes affected the wavy lines.  The waves have about a 1 mm period.  The printer is a German RipRap.  The material is ABS.  The heated bed is 110&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C.  I've tried the hot end at 220&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C and 240&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C.  So far, nothing has changed the waves.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/e74SF.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/e74SF.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15075" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2020-01-05T14:56:39.683" LastActivityDate="2020-01-05T14:56:39.683" Title="Wavy lines on 1st layer only" Tags="|troubleshooting|extrusion|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11682" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11679" CreationDate="2020-01-05T12:14:30.437" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The general recommendation for layer height is to go no thicker than 75% of the nozzle diameter. Your post states 0.4 mm layer height with a 0.4 nozzle, exceeding the recommendation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your first layer is dropped to 0.3 mm, you'll fall into the recommendation, but the thickness is a reference for ALL layers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastActivityDate="2020-01-05T12:14:30.437" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11683" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11679" CreationDate="2020-01-05T14:55:49.030" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;You have a too thick layer: to get straight lines, the plastic has to be squished together to some degree as it is pushed out of the nozzle. The result is a shape similar to a circle with the top and bottom cut. This works well until your layer thickness is more than 3 quarters of the nozzle diameter - above the &quot;squishing&quot; is practically nonexistent, and if you go above the nozzle diameter, there is almost no way to get the desired thickness out of the nozzle at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To aid in depositing the layers, it is &lt;em&gt;also&lt;/em&gt; advised to demand a line width that is about 10 % larger than the nozzle diameter. As illustration, this is roughly what 0.4 mm extrusion width with 0.4 mm layer height (blue) and 0.45 mm extrusion width with 0.3 mm extrusion height (yellow) look like:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BzIa5.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BzIa5.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yZqG8.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yZqG8.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ElU6V.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ElU6V.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GPRyP.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GPRyP.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastActivityDate="2020-01-05T14:55:49.030" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11684" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-01-05T16:07:19.403" Score="4" ViewCount="25995" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have just upgraded my board to TH3D's &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.th3dstudio.com/product/ezboard-lite/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;EZBoard Lite&lt;/a&gt; with their &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.th3dstudio.com/knowledgebase/ezboard-installation-guide/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Unified Firmware (U2.R1.15)&lt;/a&gt; and whilst dialling in all the setting I have found that using the BlTouch each time to be frustrating because of the time it takes to complete the Auto Bed Leveling, however, I cannot find the settings to increase the speed as shown in &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/BV11-VOQjMc?t=134&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Teaching Tech's video&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#define DEFAULT_MAX_FEEDRATE          { 500, 500, 5, 25 }&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;is changed to&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#define DEFAULT_MAX_FEEDRATE          { 500, 500, 20, 25 }&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#define BLTOUCH_DELAY 375   // (ms) Enable and increase if needed&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;is changed to&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#define BLTOUCH_DELAY 100   // (ms) Enable and increase if needed&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;// X and Y axis travel speed (mm/m) between probes&#xA;#define XY_PROBE_SPEED 8000&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;is changed to&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;// X and Y axis travel speed (mm/m) between probes&#xA;#define XY_PROBE_SPEED 10000&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am not quite sure which parts to change as the two builds are organised and worded differently.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the online firmware configurator, it does list an option to speed up the probing of their own EZABL but says not to do so for the BLTouch in the &lt;a href=&quot;https://ezfirmware.th3dstudio.com/editor/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;manual configuration editor&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;// Super fast probing - VERY EXPERIMENTAL AND ONLY TESTED WITH EZABL PRO SENSORS&#xA;// Do NOT use with EZABL_FASTPROBE (comment out above) or BL Touch Sensors&#xA;//#define EZABL_SUPERFASTPROBE&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would enabling this be the same as making the changes listed in Teaching Tech's video?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any help you can offer will be greatly appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13327" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-07-02T09:57:47.887" LastActivityDate="2023-02-11T22:51:38.630" Title="How Do I Speed up The BLTouch Auto Bed Leveling In TH3D's Unified Firmware?" Tags="|bed-leveling|bltouch|th3d|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11685" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8242" CreationDate="2020-01-05T22:21:07.453" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Be sure that you are using the version of Cura (14.07) that comes on the SD card provided with the printer.  I ran into this same thing after updating Cura, largely because it prompts you to when it starts.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19667" LastActivityDate="2020-01-05T22:21:07.453" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11686" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8242" CreationDate="2020-01-06T04:35:46.407" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You don't mention printing via a connected computer over USB, so I assume you're printing from an SD card. I think the most likely cause of your problem is a corrupted filesystem on the SD card, or bad SD card. I've had many occasions where my printer (Ender 3 with Marlin, stock and upgraded to 2.0) fails to see files or correctly read files despite them being readable when the SD card is put in a PC; I suspect the microcontroller library implementations of FAT filesystem reading are less tolerant of errors than real filesystem drivers on Windows, Linux, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Try backing up all the files you care about on the SD card, reformatting it, and repopulting it with known-good files and see if the problem goes away.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2020-01-06T04:35:46.407" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11688" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11650" CreationDate="2020-01-06T09:03:09.403" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Solved the problem, I was missing this line:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#define ENDSTOPPULLUP_ZMIN_PROBE&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Apparently the sensor required a pull-up to better define the signal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17069" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-01-06T09:11:54.260" LastActivityDate="2020-01-06T09:11:54.260" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11689" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11647" CreationDate="2020-01-06T09:25:23.600" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Unless the connector has already started failing - by getting warm, creating a voltage drop, eventually melting away -, you will have to remove the shrink tubing near it.&#xA;Earlier batches had the connection crimped by the supplier of the cables, which is &lt;strong&gt;wrong&lt;/strong&gt;. XT60 connectors should always be soldered to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13171" LastActivityDate="2020-01-06T09:25:23.600" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11690" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11693" CreationDate="2020-01-06T09:33:33.947" Score="2" ViewCount="232" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am designing a part with a material which can bear up to a certain stress. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To keep the stress within the design limits, I need to ensure a certain surface of solid material per layer, in other words a minimum amount of extruded filament per layer and a smoothly changing infill ratio so that the infill can transmit the load efficiently to the neighbouring layers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The part has an irregular shape and I cannot simply increase the infill ratio for the whole object because the part is big and it would cost more time and filament. I also cannot build straight pillars of solid material inside the part because there are no regions which are suitable for a continuous pillar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I calculate and apply a smoothly changing infill ratio or in general how to ensure that each layer is made of at least a certain amount of material?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I use Prusa Slicer for slicing and Fusion 360 for the design.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Related questions about variable infill, which however don't answer my question because I need to specify the amount of material and because I need a smoothly changing infill ratio:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6522/different-infill-in-the-same-part&quot;&gt;Different infill in the same part&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/7025/slic3r-can-i-vary-the-infill-percentage-for-different-heights-of-my-model&quot;&gt;slic3r: Can I vary the infill percentage for different heights of my model?&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2338" LastEditorUserId="2338" LastEditDate="2020-01-06T10:41:34.550" LastActivityDate="2020-01-06T14:48:07.333" Title="How to slice a model to ensure at least a certain amount of filament per layer?" Tags="|slicing|infill|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11691" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11695" CreationDate="2020-01-06T11:46:21.757" Score="2" ViewCount="161" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to scan a few ceramic items that are shiny and have multiple colors and found that using an artec 3d Spider that doesn't really work due to the shininess and thus want to use a matting spray or sth to be able to get proper results. Ideally sth without color that can be used on the ceramic items and allows to obtain proper texture results for the 3d model too. Any ideas?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4296" LastActivityDate="2020-01-06T14:48:35.583" Title="3d scan matting spray" Tags="|3d-models|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11692" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11696" CreationDate="2020-01-06T13:42:57.847" Score="2" ViewCount="10780" Body="&lt;p&gt;I keep having this issue on prints where the first layer has stringy lines that don't stick together. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;I've tried the following things&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Replaced nozzle and throat&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Used new filament (to rule out filament that may have absorbed moisture)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Printed at 180, 200 (my usual temp), 220&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Aligned z stop sensor&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tried line width of 0.8 (usual 0.4)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Slowed initial speed to 30mm/s&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Increased flow&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Different Top/Bottom patterns&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;My print settings as shown in this pic are the following&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Layer height: 0.2&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Line width: 0.4&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wall thickness: 0.8&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Print temp: 200&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bed temp: 60&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Retraction dist: 5.5&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Retraction speed: 40mm/s&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Initial layer speed: 30mm/s&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cooling at 20% after 0.2mm, 0% until then&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Printer&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Prusa I3 (hictop)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cura to slice&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Printing with PLA&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Have had years of successful prints, issue started happening after a couple months of not using printer&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Running marlin&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Runs auto leveling routine before each print &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let me know if you think there's other relevant settings to this issue. Any help is greatly appreciated, I've been trying to fix this for days. I've tried different models, large and small, but have the same issue no matter the size&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pgRYE.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pgRYE.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8792" LastEditorUserId="8792" LastEditDate="2020-01-06T15:42:04.337" LastActivityDate="2020-01-06T19:17:22.207" Title="Filament spreading apart and stringy on first layer" Tags="|print-quality|marlin|ultimaker-cura|prusa-i3|pla|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11693" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11690" CreationDate="2020-01-06T13:46:36.750" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Very interesting idea!&#xA;There may be a way to do this semi-automatically, but I believe it's not yet a part of any slicer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My suggestion would be:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Export file as .stl (Fusion 360)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use a DLP slicer to create images of the layers (CHITUBox)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Calculate the area of each of the images (Matlab - I think?)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Calculate the required infill percentages for having the same mass on each layer (Excel)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Open the model in PrusaSlicer, create a single &quot;height range modifier&quot; (PrusaSlicer)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Save the project as .3mf (PrusaSlicer)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Extract the .3mf file (7 Zip)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Create the neccessary &quot;layer config ranges&quot; texts for PrusaSlicer (Excel)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Inject that text into an extrated .3mf file (Notepad++)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pack the .3mf file again (7 Zip)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Slice the resulting file (PrusaSlicer)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13171" LastActivityDate="2020-01-06T13:46:36.750" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11694" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11690" CreationDate="2020-01-06T14:48:07.333" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think you have a major XY problem. The amount of material per layer is not what determines the part strength. Unless additional material is placed in a manner that reinforces against the stress you're designing for, it's just wasted. Moreover, infill in particular is not terribly useful this way, as infill has to rest upon the support of existing infill below it. If you suddenly increase infill density at a particular layer, it will not provide any significant additional strength because the added lines will be unsupported and will not bond strongly to anything. Even the next layer above them, and the next after that for quite a few layers, will not bond well because the unsupported lines can just bend downward when the nozzle goes over them, rather than providing a surface for the newly deposited material to press firmly against and bond to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Generally, infill is not your main source of part strength anyway. I would start out (especially if you can test; if this is a one-off thing, the material cost is not going to be an issue anyway and just go with overkill) by increasing the number of wall lines (wall thickness). Walls generally provide the most strength, and the amount of material used will be proportional to cross-sectional perimeter rather than area, which typically will vary &quot;linearly&quot; rather than &quot;quadratically&quot; (I use these terms loosely since I don't know right off how to make it rigorous - what the independent variable should be thought of as being). My usual default (and I believe Cura's) is 2 walls; I would expect 4-5 to be very strong, and as long as you keep at least 15-20% infill, probably stronger than what you'd get by any increase in infill percent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2020-01-06T14:48:07.333" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11695" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11691" CreationDate="2020-01-06T14:48:35.583" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are many variations of a product generically known as chalk spray. Some of them should be considered permanent or semi-permanent, while the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.montana-cans.com/en/spray-cans/montana-spray-paint/chalk-400ml-marking-spray/montana-chalk-400ml&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Montana brand product&lt;/a&gt; explicitly states &quot;temporary&quot; in the description. There is a caveat in that it has to be a non-porous surface to be considered temporary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The product is primarily directed at outside/sidewalk art which can be washed away or will wear away under normal traffic. As such, it is suited for matting shiny surfaces for scanning purposes. White is the best color for scanning as it will accept light and shadows better than the other choices.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a can of white and can attest that it will wash off. Some of the product will wipe off dry but the small crevices require washing, which should be considered when spraying your item.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2IAI3.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2IAI3.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;montana chalk spray&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The product is available at many online outlets and may be found at local art supply retailers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastActivityDate="2020-01-06T14:48:35.583" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11696" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11692" CreationDate="2020-01-06T15:22:45.450" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would try two things you didn't mention; a bed leveling (this looks a little close) and an e-stepper calibration. The layer looks thin and under-extruded, and two common culprits are the bed height being too close (&quot;oversquishing&quot; the first layer which reduces flow rate and adhesion), and the e-stepper not feeding as much filament as the slicer's asking for (giving you thinner lines than the slicer expected, so they don't adhere to each other or the substrate).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also see problems with that kapton layer. Totally understandable, the stuff is a major pain to lay down bubble-free, however it's also absolutely necessary to do so to avoid first layer issues. That's not your only problem here but it'll keep being a pain after you have filament feeding sorted out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lastly, I'm seeing slicer error; the floor fill is being laid down over the top of the shell layers on the right side of your image. Remember that the wealth of slicer variables in Cura regarding print speeds, flow rate, filament diameter etc ultimately boil down to a single G1 command per line: &quot;move from here to here at this speed extruding this length of filament&quot;. So, if the slicer is forgetting where it drew the outline by the time it scripts the floor fill, it's possible it lost the plot on extrusion calculations as well. Alternately, the printer could be the one that lost the plot, either losing track of the steppers or incorrectly interpreting the G-code. Usually you just need to power-cycle the printer, close and reopen Cura and re-slice. Also, if you're printing with a USB cable, try switching to an SD card; there's less to go wrong in the communication between slicer and printer if the slicer tells the printer &lt;em&gt;everything&lt;/em&gt; it should do up front.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd look into each of these, then try to print a calibration shape, like a 20mm XYZ cube, before going back to the print you had on the plate before.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19313" LastEditorUserId="19313" LastEditDate="2020-01-06T19:17:22.207" LastActivityDate="2020-01-06T19:17:22.207" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11697" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11578" CreationDate="2020-01-06T15:27:13.087" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to our materials experts, you should always be careful interpreting the start of the force-displacement diagram. It is possible that the test needs to &quot;set&quot; itself, important issues are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the clamping of the test articles in the test bench vices&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;alignment of the test article in the test bench&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;size of the test articles (the load suggests small test articles/small diameter)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;how is displacement measured (displacement/elongation sensors &quot;slip&quot; easily depending on the expertise of the operator)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;artifacts in the test article?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Instead of proceeding the test till rupture (prior to the in-elastic/plastic region), it would have been beneficial if the test had been stopped at about 8&amp;nbsp;kN and relaxed to 0&amp;nbsp;kN to commence a new test.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;From my own experience with creep test articles we see similar issues and apply a displacement offset so that the &quot;second section&quot; (using your words) is extrapolated to zero load. Usually this is just a few hundredths or tenths of a mm. In this case you could shift the whole diagram 0.3&amp;nbsp;mm to the right by applying a similar offset of about -0.3&amp;nbsp;mm.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sZLRB.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sZLRB.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-02-06T22:55:49.000" LastActivityDate="2020-02-06T22:55:49.000" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11698" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-01-06T16:06:41.470" Score="1" ViewCount="83" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a problem with large lines in the first layer of my prints which have curvatures. The last layer has no problems. You can see the problem in the horizontal line of the &quot;A&quot;, the rest of the &quot;A&quot; seems fine. Here are example pictures:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gBqhD.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gBqhD.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;close up:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8hqw8.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8hqw8.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What can that be?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;This is printed with an Anet A8. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Slicer: Ultimaker Cura&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Layer Height: 0.15 mm &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wall Line Count: 2 &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Print Speed: 60 mm/s &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Printing Temperature: 190° Celsius&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Build Plate Temperature: 60° Celsius&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19676" LastActivityDate="2020-01-06T16:28:38.097" Title="How to avoid line curvature in first layer of a 3D print" Tags="|print-quality|ultimaker-cura|anet-a8|filament-quality|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11700" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11652" CreationDate="2020-01-06T17:16:10.147" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;PLA snapping is pretty universal.  The best countermeasure is to always remove the filament from the printer after a print and place it in a low-humidity chamber.  Other answers speak of moisture-induced micro-cracks, for which I have no evidence for or against.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This has occurred for me when I've been lazy about putting filament away after a print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've seen it with several brands of PLA, perhaps more often with filament with a glassy surface finish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My filament is 1.75&amp;nbsp;mm.  3&amp;nbsp;mm filament may be more susceptible because of higher stresses on the surface for the same radius bend, or straightening from the same radius spool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2082" LastActivityDate="2020-01-06T17:16:10.147" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11701" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11647" CreationDate="2020-01-06T17:35:58.830" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the connector or the wires are hot, you have a severe problem.  The heat of a high-resistance connection encourages additional oxidation and corrosion, which escalates the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the wires do not get warmer as they approach the connector, you don't have a problem, at least not yet.  If the wires get warmer as you approach the connector, you probably have a budding problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Soldered connectors are not generally used, with crimped connections preferred.  The copper-to-copper connection is lower resistance than copper-tin-copper.  Also if something happens to the connector pins which cause them to heat (such as corroded surfaces), solder can melt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another answer suggests that the XT60 connector should be soldered.  A quick look at some spec sheets show solder-cup connections which should be soldered and aren't suitable for crimping.  I have not seen that there are &lt;strong&gt;no&lt;/strong&gt; XT60 style connectors with crimp connections, so I can not rule out the appropriateness of a crimp connection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2082" LastEditorUserId="23570" LastEditDate="2020-09-13T07:49:21.487" LastActivityDate="2020-09-13T07:49:21.487" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11702" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11632" CreationDate="2020-01-06T19:42:54.467" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cura's solution can be found in the &quot;Jerk Control&quot; settings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Short analogy; when driving, and a corner is coming up, you basically have two options to take the corner smoothly; you can take the corner with a wide turning radius, or you can slow down. Taking a neighborhood street corner at highway speeds just doesn't work even if there's nobody else on the road; you'll very likely overshoot the corner, if you're in a RWD car you'll likely lose the back end and fishtail (or worse), and the occupants of the car, yourself included, are going to be thrown around violently, to no-one's real advantage other than to say you took that turn at 70.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Back in 3D printing land, something similar applies; as the extruder approaches a sharp corner, it will be disadvantageous all around for the extruder to try to maintain 70mm/s around what's basically an instantaneous turn. Your jerk (stopping the moving axis) and acceleration (starting the non-moving axis) settings are going to exceed the physical capabilities of your steppers and drive belts, making the corner less accurate (and in the extreme, losing steps causing layer shifts), and if your belts are not &lt;em&gt;perfectly&lt;/em&gt; tensioned, and really even if they are, you'll get &quot;ringing&quot; (the 3D equivalent of fishtailing as you straighten out after the apex of a turn while driving).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first option, cutting the corner, is your corner-to-arc replacement; rather than try for an instantaneous turn, just soften that corner by enough that you're within what's possible for the stepper motors in terms of acceleration. This keeps the speed and surface quality high, but necessarily reduces the accuracy of the print to the model.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So instead, Cura encourages the second option; slow down before the turn. Enabling Jerk Control and tweaking the associated settings lets the Cura slicer reduce head speed gradually as the extruder approaches a sharp corner, thus reducing the torque required to stop motion in one axis and start it in another, to something the steppers can actually accomplish at a rate you'd call &quot;instantaneous&quot;. This keeps the corners sharp and avoids ringing along straight lines after a corner, at the cost of a slower overall print speed (though not as much as reducing overall print speed to the speed at which the extruder will take corners).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, I realize that this is the &lt;em&gt;opposite&lt;/em&gt; of &quot;increasing corner speed&quot;; jerk control exists to slow the extruder near corners. However, increasing corner speed is rarely what you actually want, for the reasons stated above. If you really want nicely-rounded corners, fillet them in CAD, and then the slicer will generate a sequence of arbitrarily short linear movements (true G2/G3/G5 curve interpolation from the purely polygonal STL geometry has been experimented with, but currently more trouble than it's worth) which limit the change of velocity of the extruder as it rounds the corner, instead of making the rounding an &quot;artifact&quot; of printer limitations. At fine enough detail levels of conversion to an STL, the results are indistinguishable from a true curve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19313" LastEditorUserId="19313" LastEditDate="2020-02-05T22:15:41.373" LastActivityDate="2020-02-05T22:15:41.373" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11703" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11705" CreationDate="2020-01-06T20:36:25.940" Score="2" ViewCount="1400" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to replace my hotend with the E3D Hemera direct kit. I got to the final step of hot-tightening the hot side and managed to snap my heatbreak. The part that screws into the heat-sink is stuck, though I was able to remove it from the heater block section.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Below is a picture of the heatbreak. The red square shows what it in the heat-sink. It's mostly thread (with thermal compound) but a bit of the unthreaded metal is sticking out (above the disk shown). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've tried removing it with a jeweler's drill (which is how I removed the heater block portion, but I cannot get a good grip on the long threaded piece. I've also tried pliers and rounded needle-nose pliers. Neither worked. I couldn't find my regular needle-nose and will go to the store to try that. Are there other options to break this free or am I stuck with buying a replacement heat-sink? I already ordered a replacement, but it'd be nice to have a backup in case something else goes awry (as has been the case with this modification; this is snafu number 4).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xgpZN.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xgpZN.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Heatbreak with stuck portion highlighted&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13883" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-01-06T22:30:54.773" LastActivityDate="2020-01-06T22:30:54.773" Title="Remove broken heatbreak" Tags="|hotend|repair|e3d-hemera|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11705" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11703" CreationDate="2020-01-06T20:46:24.283" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Broken screws or screws with damaged screw heads are typically removed with screw extractors. Since there is already a hole you could &quot;drill&quot; (unscrew) it out with a screw extractor, as it is counter clockwise, it is about creating enough friction to unscrew it from the threads. Beware that it is not drilling and spalling material, turn slowly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ek64u.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ek64u.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively, a grip vice pliers may work if there is enough &quot;meat&quot; to clamp on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pVTIq.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pVTIq.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-01-06T21:05:51.437" LastActivityDate="2020-01-06T21:05:51.437" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11707" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11708" CreationDate="2020-01-07T01:27:02.153" Score="3" ViewCount="2029" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have printed two objects with my new 3D printer (Anycubic Mega S) and everytime, my prints are stuck to my bed (sort of glued to it). I cannot remove them by hand. I have tried waiting until it cools off, but the only thing that works is scraping really hard the bed with the spatula.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm scared that if I have to do that for my next prints, I will break the bed (maybe peel off the element that keeps the plastic and the bed glued together while printing). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the safest way to remove a print from the bed ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19675" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-01-07T12:04:28.463" LastActivityDate="2020-01-11T20:52:59.910" Title="How can I remove my print from the bed safely" Tags="|heated-bed|print-material|anycubic-i3-mega|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11708" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11707" CreationDate="2020-01-07T02:16:38.257" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;One method that works at our makerspace and also has worked for a user on another 3d printing forum is to use a 50:50 mix of water and denatured alcohol. While the print bed is warm, apply some to the perimeter of the print at the bed surface. Allow it to cool, try to remove the print. If it does not work, reheat the bed and repeat until you are able to release it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastActivityDate="2020-01-07T02:16:38.257" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11709" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11667" CreationDate="2020-01-07T03:49:38.820" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You might try upgrading your PrusaSlicer to 2.1.1. I don't know if the &quot;Prusa HIPS&quot; setting got updated since your 2.0.0 but it's worth checking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For comparison, PrusaSlicer 2.1.1 uses these settings for HIPS:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Filament:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;First layer temp: 220&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Other layer temp: 220&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bed temp, first layer: 100&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bed temp, other layers: 110&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cooling:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fan speed: min 20%, max 20%&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bridges fan speed: 50%&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Disable fan for first 3 layers&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Enable fan if layer print time is below 10 sec&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Other cooling settings same as for PLA&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Advanced:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Max volumetric speed: 11&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's also custom G-code for HIPS setting M900 K10.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I, too, want to print actual parts with HIPS. For me, it's because HIPS the lowest density of all the commonly-available stiff-plastic filaments, which is great for printing lightweight model aircraft parts where every gram matters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19683" LastEditorUserId="19683" LastEditDate="2020-01-08T22:58:16.533" LastActivityDate="2020-01-08T22:58:16.533" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11710" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-01-07T04:26:17.657" Score="3" ViewCount="4015" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am using Cura for slicing, and OctoPrint for the actual printing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On small pieces with roughly one square cm of surface area prints over about 6&amp;nbsp;mm have a risk of coming off at 60&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In fact, I have had to use 71&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C so it stick properly.  However, I don't want the print bed that hot all the time.  I would like to try a different number of layers at different bed temperatures till I get it right.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Gradually, over the course of 1-3&amp;nbsp;mm, for the bed temperature to decrease back to 60&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C to save on electricity.  Possibly even 50&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C as the layers get higher.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cura only support the initial layer having a different temperature and that isn't enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Apparently you can have custom user events with &lt;a href=&quot;https://docs.octoprint.org/en/latest/events/index.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;OctoPrint&lt;/a&gt;, one of them being &lt;strong&gt;ZChange&lt;/strong&gt; which is great.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;{__currentZ}: the current Z position of the head if known, -1 if not available&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I need on the ZChange event to check the &lt;code&gt;__currentZ&lt;/code&gt; and execute an&lt;code&gt;M140&lt;/code&gt; with a temperature varying with layer height.  Normally I would use a simple &lt;code&gt;if&lt;/code&gt; command or etc., but how do I implement this here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, its seems you can execute a command or a G-code.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can't seem to find any examples where I can test the Z height in layers or mm and execute a different temperature for different layers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An additional problem is the increased temps cause the model to melt so that the opening is smaller nearest to the glass than most of the rest of the model.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am height of the raft, which helps, but I am hoping for a compromise.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The print bed shouldn't need to be 70&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C for the whole vertical height of the model.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any suggestions?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16395" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-01-07T06:59:58.467" LastActivityDate="2020-01-09T17:53:50.910" Title="Altering the print bed temperature at different layers" Tags="|heated-bed|glass-bed|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11711" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11710" CreationDate="2020-01-07T07:45:45.603" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The actual problem you are facing is bed adhesion&lt;/strong&gt;, the proposed solution (in your question) shouldn't be the preferred solution to get your parts to stick to the plate/glass as plastic shrinks as it cools down. Note that a 5&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C temperature drop after the first layer usually isn't a problem, but larger temperature differences or shutting off the heat completely will cause your parts to come off the glass.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that PLA requires a temperature of about 60&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C (for adhesion as this is close to the glass temperature where the plastic is soft; however, note that PLA can be printed on cold bed surfaces on suitable bed surfaces). The slate of glass is an insulator, so it is perfectly possible that you need to set the bed at a higher temperature to get 60&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C at the surface of the glass plate. When the lower layer deforms the bed temperature is too high.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you are using Cura, there is a plugin available called TweakAtZ, nowadays this is a default plugin. How to use this is described in &lt;a href=&quot;/a/7346/&quot;&gt;this anser&lt;/a&gt; (on question &lt;a href=&quot;/q/7345&quot;&gt;&quot;How does one use a heat tower?&quot;&lt;/a&gt;); instead of changing the hotend temperature you will need to modify the bed temperature instead (using &lt;code&gt;M140&lt;/code&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;To solve the actual problem&lt;/strong&gt;, you need to prepare the glass by cleaning it properly, use a level bed with a correct initial nozzle to bed distance for &lt;code&gt;Z=0&lt;/code&gt; (usually thickness of a plain paper sheet A4/Letter) and an adhesive like hairspray, glue stick or a dedicated adhesion spray like 3DLAC or Dimafix. I'm using 3DLAC for several years (for PLA and PETG; Dimafix is supposed to be more sticky at higher temperatures, so for ABS for instance) and never had any problems with adhesion on properly levelled beds. See &lt;a href=&quot;/a/4045&quot;&gt;this answer&lt;/a&gt; for another user's experience.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An OctoPrint solution using event as you suggest is not recommended. This is the config.yaml, e.i. the configuration of the print server, not a print instance option file. Furthermore, there are yet no plugins that can handle additional code when the head reaches a certain (layer)height. This is pretty tricky if you use Z position detection when the head also can hop, such code should be inserted by the slicer instead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Related to your question are the answers on question: &lt;a href=&quot;/q/10683&quot;&gt;&quot;Why keep the bed heated after initial layer(s) with PLA (or PETG)?&quot;&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-01-08T12:22:51.780" LastActivityDate="2020-01-08T12:22:51.780" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11712" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-01-07T14:09:21.560" Score="0" ViewCount="713" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've never made solid prints since I purchased a TEVO Tarantula in December 2019, but since I'm totally new to this sport, I didn't realize I had an issue until after many failures.  I kept upping extruder temperature and nothing seemed to change, parts printed but fell apart.  Using a hand held temperature gauge to check bed and extruder (on the sensor screw), bed temperature was perfect, extruder only warm, stepping 10 degrees Celsius at a time (200, 210, 220, 230, 240, 250&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C) always resulted in 18.3&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C/65&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;F&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I looked for broken wires on extruder heat and sensor, but they were okay. TEVO support thinks it's a sensor problem, but it won't arrive for 1 month or more. I purchased a spare extruder from AliExpress when I bought the machine and replaced the complete unit but now I get an error &lt;code&gt;E1 Heating Fail, Printer Halted&lt;/code&gt;.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19688" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-01-07T14:16:33.623" LastActivityDate="2021-03-12T19:42:12.953" Title="Extruder temperature failure" Tags="|extruder|tevo-tarantula|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11713" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2020-01-07T14:26:22.350" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Tevo Tarantula is a 3D printer based on the popular Prusa i3 design and is manufactured by TEVO 3D Electronic Technology Co.,Ltd. This is a low-cost printer that uses a sliding bed for the Y direction and a portal for X-Z movement of the hotend. The printer frame is made from aluminium profiles. It is equipped with a heated build platform (heat bed) with a printer volume of 200 x 200 x 200 mm (or an optional 200 x 280 x 200 mm) and uses a Bowden type extruder. More details &lt;a href=&quot;https://tevo3dprinterstore.com/products/2016-newest-tevo-tarantula-i3-aluminium-extrusion-3d-printer-kit-printer-3d-printing-2-rolls-filament-8gb-sd-card-lcd-as-gift&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-01-07T14:26:22.350" LastActivityDate="2020-01-07T14:26:22.350" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11714" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2020-01-07T14:26:22.350" Score="0" Body="This tag should be used for specific questions about specific issues involving the TEVO Tarantula 3D printer." OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-01-07T14:26:22.350" LastActivityDate="2020-01-07T14:26:22.350" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11715" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11712" CreationDate="2020-01-07T16:20:15.097" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The first extruder unit appears to have an error the firmware can't detect, which is why TEVO thinks the issue with that extruder is the heat sensor. If the sensor's reading hot relative to actual temp, the block will be too cool to reliably extrude, while the printer won't think anything's wrong and won't try to heat the block more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I'm surprised the extruder can push any amount of any type of fil through the nozzle at room temp, which makes me think there's also some user error here. Non-contact temp gauges like IR guns can be bad at accurately checking very localized temperature; I'd recheck the extruder at what the printer thinks is working temp, but use a contact thermometer like a multimeter with a thermocouple (the &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B0012VWR20&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Extech MN35&lt;/a&gt; is inexpensive and works well for most hobbyist uses).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The second extruder has a detectable error. Either the sensor is again faulty, but this time reading 0&amp;nbsp;V (which usually equates to 0&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C), or the heating element is faulty and can't warm the block. Either way, the printer can command as much extruder heat as it wants, the sensor never gets above room temp much less to operating temp, so the printer eventually gives up and tells you there's an extruder heating problem. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This printer-detected heating error is a little easier to troubleshoot because the printer can help you. If the hotend gets to working temp as measured externally, but the sensor reads well below it, the sensor is the problem. If the hotend does not heat, or heats very poorly (like only getting into the 150-ish range when trying to heat to 200), it's the heating element. Both the heater and sensor could be faulty, but the combination of two failures is less likely by simple probability, and it's easier to diagnose the sensor issue with a working heater, so if the heater's not heating, fix that first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's possible, even probable, that a combination of parts from the two extruders will give you a working hotend, however you have to know which parts are working, and those parts have to be separable (as in you can remove the needed part from one assembly and put it in the other without destroying the part or either assembly), which at this pricepoint is honestly not a guarantee. The info provided in the question isn't quite enough to say which pieces of each assembly should be combined to give you a working extruder head, but the above tests will tell you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19313" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-01-07T21:27:18.293" LastActivityDate="2020-01-07T21:27:18.293" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11716" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-01-07T20:57:56.473" Score="2" ViewCount="1066" Body="&lt;p&gt;For some reason the only the top layers keep failing or underextruding on my prints, for no clear reason. Here are my settings:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Slicer: Simplify3D&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Filament: 1.75 mm Black PLA from Filamentive&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Resolution: 0.1 mm on a 0.4 mm nozzle&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Temperature: 200 °C nozzle and 50 °C bed&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Speed: 45 mm/s and 50% outline speed&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Infill: 15%&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The prints were going perfectly fine on a 0.2 mm resolution and only seemed to fail when I changed to 0.1 mm; which is strange considering the rest of the print goes fine, apart from the top layers (which I have 3 of).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My only thought is that it could be a bridging issue and is somehow underextruding, and getting caught on the infill as that it where it is centred around. I wouldn't know how to fix this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If anyone could give me any information or tips I would be very appreciative, thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The pictures are taken after some light sanding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wnhbn.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wnhbn.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PyVoc.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PyVoc.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17392" LastActivityDate="2020-01-08T19:35:32.670" Title="Top layers failing/underextruding on Creality CR-10" Tags="|pla|underextrusion|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11717" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11716" CreationDate="2020-01-07T21:36:31.683" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you decrease layer thickness, you should increase bottom and top layer amount, or set it to a fixed shell thickness. The thinner the layers the more difficult to span over the infill (there is much less filament extruded). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could try extra part cooling, higher percentage infill, reduced hotend temperature and slower top layer printing. But, best results are reached with more top layers and higher infill percentage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See e.g. &lt;a href=&quot;https://groups.google.com/forum/m/#!topic/wanhao-printer-3d/tulE2ATbClA&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this answer&lt;/a&gt; by user &quot;dnewman&quot;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;That said, with very low layer heights (e.g., 0.1&amp;nbsp;mm), there's a tendency to use very sparse infill to speed up printing time.  However, very low layer heights bridge over voids very, very poorly.  So poorly that you can have the print nearly finished only to find that the top won't close up.  Thus, don't make the infill too sparse when doing low layer heights.  MOREVER, you definitely need more top layers to get the final finished top to look acceptable.  The thin layer heights will take many more layers (many more in physical height, not just layer count) to give a nice top.  At issue (again) is how poorly low layer heights will bridge voids.  With 0.2&amp;nbsp;mm on up, you generally get a nice, thin strand extruded which can stretch across voids. But at 0.1&amp;nbsp;mm layer heights the printer is just doing tiny, discrete squirts of plastic which it spreads like cake icing across the lower layer.  There's not a single, fine strand extruded and instead tiny little beads.  When there's a solid layer below, these squirts have something to be spread against by the extruder nozzle.  But when there's a void, the squirts just build up on the nozzle and then come off in a big blob when the nozzle next brushes over a non-void space.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-01-07T22:24:22.317" LastActivityDate="2020-01-07T22:24:22.317" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11718" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11662" CreationDate="2020-01-07T22:47:34.197" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had a very similar problem with my printer, and it turned out that the bowden tube was not fully inserted into the hotend. The hotend is bored out to a very close fit to the tube. I had inserted it about a half inch, until it stopped, but it had only gone in to the top of the hotend. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After I inserted the bowden tube fully, my clogging issue stopped.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can insert a toothpick or something and measure the depth, then mark the tube at the same measurement to ensure it gets fully inserted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19695" LastActivityDate="2020-01-07T22:47:34.197" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11719" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11673" CreationDate="2020-01-08T05:20:30.317" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Two things:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Did you bring the bed up to operating temperature to do the levelling (manual or automatic). The metal &amp;amp; glass will expand/warp at different levels depending on temp.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check your G-code to make sure it is not doing a &lt;code&gt;G28&lt;/code&gt; (auto home). That turns off auto-levelling. If it is there you can add:&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&#xA;G28 ;Home&#xA;M420 S1 ; turn levelling on&#xA;M501 ; reload your last-saved bed levelling from EEPROM&#xA;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This assumes you saved the results from your auto-levelling with &lt;code&gt;M500&lt;/code&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;G29 ; Automatic Bed Levelling&#xA;M500 ; save the bed levelling data to EEPROM&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19503" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-01-08T07:43:11.953" LastActivityDate="2020-01-08T07:43:11.953" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11720" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-01-08T09:16:24.197" Score="2" ViewCount="3426" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am new on 3D printing, but I cannot understand how support structures (in Ultimaker Cura 4.4.1) can stand if they do not lay on anything, but air. Throwing everything away after 9 hours of printing is not a good experience, did I do anything wrong? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the attached screenshots images of the sliced model and Cura settings for support structures are shown. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/g0IHj.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/g0IHj.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gtWst.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gtWst.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NPwfI.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NPwfI.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Demonstration of the issue&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here some pics of the real printing results at 50&amp;nbsp;%-60&amp;nbsp;% of the work done. One of the two critical supports was barely done while other one, the same encircled in the slicer model, was not. I saved the printing attaching with some glue an &quot;L&quot; shaped piece of cardboard. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Z40SA.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Z40SA.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;two critical support structures one barely done, the other one not&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PoLq2.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PoLq2.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;detail of the not done support structure&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;UPDATE 11/01/2020&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The tree support option greatly failed, but if anybody could suggest different settings I will be happy to try and report here an update. These are some screenshots:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4hPI3.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4hPI3.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Fsx6p.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Fsx6p.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1KSW0.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1KSW0.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've highlighted with red pencil the horizontal pieces of structure supported by nothing. I have to say anyway that the resulting model is worth to Moebius, could be an alien spaceship it-self!!! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have partially fixed the problem setting the support horizontal expansion to 3 instead 0 mm as suggested by a more skilled friend. Anyway, this is clearly a workaround of an intrinsic bug that appears just with Anycubic printer setting and not with other printers configuration. The drawback of using 3mm instead 0mm is that the supports become too strong and some of them completely envelop model parts. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/i7CJr.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/i7CJr.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19678" LastEditorUserId="19678" LastEditDate="2020-01-11T19:51:06.803" LastActivityDate="2020-01-11T19:51:06.803" Title="Cura is printing support on nothing?" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|support-structures|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11721" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11720" CreationDate="2020-01-08T11:05:14.640" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The image of the sliced print part is not very clear but printing support on air is a feature of Ultimaker Cura. This is done when support is laid on top of your print part if you enabled &lt;code&gt;Support Placement&lt;/code&gt; to &lt;code&gt;Everywhere&lt;/code&gt;, which you did. The default Cura setting for &lt;code&gt;Support Bottom Distance&lt;/code&gt; (which is a sub-setting of &lt;code&gt;Support Z Distance&lt;/code&gt;) is the layer thickness specified in &lt;code&gt;Layer Height&lt;/code&gt;. If you have a layer height of 0.2&amp;nbsp;mm, the &lt;code&gt;Support Bottom Distance&lt;/code&gt; is also 0.2&amp;nbsp;mm. For the top, option &lt;code&gt;Support Top Distance&lt;/code&gt; this is two layer heights, so 0.4&amp;nbsp;mm in this example. These options are visible in the expert mode, you can search for them in the search box, see image below.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Why should you want air in between your part and the support?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll soon find out when you want to &lt;strong&gt;remove supports&lt;/strong&gt;, if no gap is used, the support will fuse to the print part. This is only interesting (no gap between print part and support structure) when you use a different filament for support like PVA or break-away filament; e.g. PVA dissolves in water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vnlrY.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vnlrY.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note on the updated printed part images, you seem to have a &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/search?q=stringing&quot;&gt;stringing issue&lt;/a&gt; that needs to be resolved first. Note that it tries to print support on top of inner side of the toroid. Maybe fusing the support will help you to slice better supports, or alternatively set option &lt;code&gt;Support Placement&lt;/code&gt; to &lt;code&gt;Touching Buildplate&lt;/code&gt; and use an experimental option called &lt;code&gt;Tree Support&lt;/code&gt;. You can also try to change the print orientation by rotating the print. Last resort is to design the supports yourself in a 3D model software program.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-01-08T12:37:42.603" LastActivityDate="2020-01-08T12:37:42.603" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11722" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11723" CreationDate="2020-01-08T14:06:19.880" Score="5" ViewCount="525" Body="&lt;p&gt;I understand that this is probably more of an electronics question, but was hoping that someone with experience of using an Anet A6 in the UK (or a country outside of the US/China) may be able to help... or alternatively, someone knowledgeable in electronics!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I recently bought and assembled an Anet A6. I am based in the UK. On the power supply transformer of the Anet A6, there is a switch that allows you to select the input voltage from the mains. There are two options, 100&amp;nbsp;V or 220&amp;nbsp;V.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I turn my Anet A6 printer on, nothing happens... I have triple checked all connections and there doesn't seem to be anything wrongly connected or loose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am wondering if the reason it is not working is because in the UK we use a different mains voltage 230&amp;nbsp;V (I think) and a different frequency 50&amp;nbsp;Hz (I think) to the US and China (which I assume the printer was built to accommodate)?... I am not 100&amp;nbsp;% sure on this, just a guess, I am far from an electronics expert.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't have a multimeter to test if there is voltage flowing (not that I would even know how to test it lol).&#xA;Is it likely that this difference between voltage/freq is the reason that it is not working? If so, is there anyway to fix this? I would prefer to buy something (some sort of converter) than tinker with the electronics, as I have no experience in electronics and live in a rented flat, which I really don't want to burn down (not that I would if i owned it).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any help is massively appreciated, thanks in advance!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have done what @Oscar suggested and also bought a multimeter to test the circuitry. I plugged my Anet A6 into the mains power supply and turned it on, but still nothing happens... the LED doesn't light up, not does the LCD screen turn on. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tested the voltage of the power supply whilst it was turned on across connections 6 and 8 in the video below (taken from the assembly instructions video, 12 mins 46 seconds):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/mQzOHL_89nc?t=766&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Assembly Instructions Video, 12:46&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The 6 and 8 connections correspond to the output from the transformer (ie the connections that would be connected to the mainboard). There was no voltage reading at all when I measured it here with the multimeter. Does this indicate that there is a problem with the transformer/power supply, or is this expected?  Or am I testing in the wrong place and there is a better place to test when the printer is on to determine what the problem might be?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19704" LastEditorUserId="19704" LastEditDate="2020-01-09T21:36:29.153" LastActivityDate="2020-01-12T15:06:12.800" Title="Using an Anet A6 3D printer in the UK... (mains voltage issue!)" Tags="|anet-a8|printer-building|anet-a6|power-supply|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11723" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11722" CreationDate="2020-01-08T14:35:50.923" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The UK uses 230&amp;nbsp;V mains voltage. The 220&amp;nbsp;V designation is from the past, Europe is now using 230&amp;nbsp;V. You do not have to worry about the frequency.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should place the switch to 220&amp;nbsp;V and plug the cord into the socket. The printer should start immediately booting (cycling) the printer firmware, the LCD should light up and the cold end cooling fan will spin (annoyingly).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If nothing happens, you need to check the Power Supply Unit (PSU) and all cables for proper connection (does the fan of the PSU spin if it has one, you should at least see a led light up). A multimeter is not expensive and generally very valuable to test if it outputs 12&amp;nbsp;V. That way you know the PSU is working or not, if it works the problem is at the main printer board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As these PSU's are pretty cheap and faulty, you could well have received a broken one. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;How to measure the voltage?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;If you look at the connection terminals you will find labels above them. Measuring position 6 and 8 might be the incorrect ones, this depends on your PSU. If you have exactly the same PSU as from the linked video, measuring between 6 and 8 would be correct:&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Z39Wq.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Z39Wq.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;From the image above the connections from left to right (for other PSU units, the order may be different, I have units where the connection to the mains is on the right):&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;code&gt;L&lt;/code&gt;, &lt;code&gt;N&lt;/code&gt; and &lt;code&gt;ground&lt;/code&gt; are used for connection to the mains,&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;code&gt;COM&lt;/code&gt; (stands for common or 0&amp;nbsp;V) or sometimes denoted as &lt;code&gt;-V&lt;/code&gt; is the output ground (negative, connection for the black wires) and&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;code&gt;+V&lt;/code&gt; is positive, connection for the red wires.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;You need to measure the voltage difference over &lt;code&gt;COM&lt;/code&gt; and &lt;code&gt;+V&lt;/code&gt;, this should be the voltage of the power supply. Ideally you measure the voltage when the power supply is delivering a load (e.g. directly connected to a strip of LEDs or directly connected to the heated bed; some faulty PSU crash in under load, this can be seen by a lower voltage than the rated voltage).&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;If the PSU is correctly wired, your fuse is not broken, does not have a LED lighted and the voltage is zero the unit is defective.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-01-10T09:41:53.670" LastActivityDate="2020-01-10T09:41:53.670" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11725" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11730" CreationDate="2020-01-08T18:07:39.557" Score="3" ViewCount="1880" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have made a temperature ⨉ fan speed tower which needed 3x9-1 ChangeAtZ post processing scripts and it took me quite much time to configure them all (and check it twice). Is there a way to save this, so that I wouldn't need to make them all again if something went wrong and I needed to start over or if I wanted to do something similar again ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19706" LastActivityDate="2020-01-12T16:46:58.173" Title="How to save the post processing scripts configuration with Cura?" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11726" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-01-08T18:37:19.107" Score="1" ViewCount="2093" Body="&lt;p&gt;Long story short, my wife and I are now the proud owners of an AnyCubic D, also known as the Predator. This is not our first 3D printer, but it is our first &quot;delta&quot; design, with the circular build plate and the extruder suspended by stepper-controlled tie rods (as opposed to the IMO more intuitive Cartesian designs like the MakerBot R2X and Ender 3 Pro we already have). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Got it all put together last night and ran all the basic setups including an auto bed leveling. This feature is both a blessing and a curse. It's a blessing because the actual leveling is a matter of fitting the probe, hitting a button and walking away as it maps the build plate, and the results in terms of a consistent extrusion thickness around the plate are excellent each and every time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's a curse because the printer &lt;em&gt;depends&lt;/em&gt; on auto-leveling due to the build plate being bolted directly to the base; with no manual adjustment possible, probing is the only form of leveling you can do, and that leveling is dependent on an accurate &quot;zeroing&quot; of the extruder above the center of the plate, which has to be done using the steppers to bring the extruder down from &quot;home&quot; to the typical paper-thin clearance over the plate surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thus the problem; the zeroing procedure has a minimum adjustment of 0.1mm. Getting the clearance &lt;em&gt;just right&lt;/em&gt; for a solid first layer requires at least another order of magnitude finer adjustment. For now, I have it &quot;good enough&quot; to stick the first layer onto the plate, but the resulting prints show pretty classic plate clearance issues:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iOVKz.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iOVKz.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can see the lines of the bottom layer aren't connecting horizontally, and the extrusions are thin and tubular, which are the textbook symptoms of excessive build plate clearance (not enough &quot;squish&quot; of the filament between extruder and plate). It's close, but this is a game of just tens of microns, and the printer simply does not give me that level of control; one more step down at 0.1mm and I hit the plate. The manual says you can babystep the Z offset at 0.04mm while actually running a print, but I have run several (including the leveling test GCode included on the printer's SD card) and have never seen that option enabled in the leveling menu.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was wondering if there were any AnyCubic D/Predator owners with insight into how they really dial in the proper zero height on these printers. I do have Cura's features to work with; theoretically I could send a relative-positioned &lt;code&gt;G0 Z-0.04 F100&lt;/code&gt; command from its remote control panel as the last step down in zero height adjustment (assuming the printer is listening to USB input while running the leveling procedure), or I could put a similar command in the start Gcode followed by a &lt;code&gt;G92 Z0&lt;/code&gt; which will re-zero the extruder height at the new level (assuming the printer accepts a relative move below its known zero; Marlin 1.1.0 actively prevents that, but indications are the AnyCubic firmware is proprietary, so who knows). I could also leave the extruder height as-is and bump Cura's first layer flow rate setting in the material profile, to push more filament into the taller space on the first layer and so get more squish. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, none of these strike me as something I should &lt;em&gt;have&lt;/em&gt; to do to dial in a printer, given that extruder clearance is a problem trivially solved on either of the other printers, and these fairly kludgy fixes would have to be repeated every time the bed was re-leveled (such as after any disassembly for maintenance or any move to a new location, including one beyond USB cable distance of the slicing computer).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19313" LastActivityDate="2020-06-17T22:54:34.053" Title="AnyCubic D (aka Predator) - Z-zeroing and first layer issues" Tags="|z-axis|bed-leveling|delta|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11727" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11716" CreationDate="2020-01-08T19:35:32.670" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The holes in your part tops are the result of a combination of poor bridging and too few top layers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What's happening is that when the printer tries to lay down the first layer of the top/roof, it has to &quot;bridge&quot; over the top layer of the infill. If you are trying to lay down that layer too quickly, with too hot a filament temperature, over too sparse an infill, the lines won't go down properly, and then the next layer over that has to try to bridge this same gap with very little support (and very often with up-curled broken strands of filament in the way).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The printer can &lt;em&gt;eventually&lt;/em&gt; lay down a smooth layer, if you give it enough tries to smooth over the rougher, broken layers underneath. How many you need depends on how badly the first one failed to bridge the infill gaps. If you're only printing 2 layers, try 4. If you're printing 4, try 6.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, look at your infill percentage and pattern. The top lines have to be drawn over the top of whatever the layer of infill looks like as of when the slicer calculates that the first layer of top needs to go down. Virtually all slicers provide a &quot;preview&quot; of the sliced layers, with some like Cura allowing you to trace through the extruder's &quot;tool path&quot; over each layer. This can be a very useful tool to diagnose potential issues with what the slicer will expect the printer to do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for how to change it, it really depends on what you need out of the part in terms of material strength (different patterns have advantages and disadvantages in how much force can be applied in what directions), weight (more infill means heavier), and print time (higher percentages and more complex infill patterns increase print time). Cubic infill has the best overall strength-for-weight, and it slices and prints pretty fast as each layer is just straight lines. However, it's among the worst in terms of the grid it provides under the top layer. Isolinear/Triangle fill provides one of the better support structures, and is near the top in Z-axis compressive strength, but compressive strength other than in the Z-axis tends to be low. Gyroid infill has among the best combinations of strength, weight and required bridging distances, but slicing and printing the complex curved structure takes more time, and some slicers don't offer it (I'm still kicking around with an old MakerBot that's only fully supported by MakerBot Desktop, which doesn't offer any &quot;fully 3D&quot; fills like cubic or gyroid at all).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lastly, if you absolutely need the model at a light weight or fast print time that precludes increasing the infill or slowing print head speed, try printing a bridging test, especially something like a &quot;temperature tower&quot; that allows you to see the effects of varying extrusion temperature all in one model, and make sure you're printing at the exact temperature giving you the best results for the other configuration settings you're using. Your model may not require externally-visible bridging or overhangs, but the ability to draw a long line of filament literally into thin air without sagging or snapping is a useful trick even in &quot;solid&quot; object prints, because as you've found out, these solid shapes are up to 90% air inside.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19313" LastActivityDate="2020-01-08T19:35:32.670" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11728" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11725" CreationDate="2020-01-08T20:20:55.710" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm a Simplify3D user which allows one to save &quot;factory&quot; files. It appears that Cura supports &lt;a href=&quot;https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/52032-manage-profiles&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;printer profile configuration and saving&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the above link, one is directed to enter the profile manager. You can duplicate an existing profile and rename it to separate it from the protected (standard/stock?) profiles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Without using Cura to confirm this, I suspect that you'll discover this may be the solution you seek.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ia28N.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ia28N.png&quot; alt=&quot;profile manager&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastActivityDate="2020-01-08T20:20:55.710" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11729" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11726" CreationDate="2020-01-08T20:30:49.287" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently corrected a similar problem on a Robo3D R1+ printer. It is described as the z-offset setting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An entry in the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/groups/anycubic-predator/forums/bigtreetech-skr-v13-tmc2280-swap/topic:41518&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Thingiverse forum&lt;/a&gt; appears to reference this problem as well. The sensor provides reference information to the board, but the compensation is not always as it should be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the Robo, the command sequence was M565 Z0.7 in this specific instance, followed by M500 to store the value.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not certain this is the answer for the Predator as the above is specific to the Robo3d.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/7264/how-to-set-the-z-home-offset&quot;&gt;answer in this SE&lt;/a&gt; suggests that one can use M206 Zxx followed by the M500 storage command.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Further research regarding the z-offset for your particular board is warranted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastEditorUserId="854" LastEditDate="2020-01-09T17:36:45.653" LastActivityDate="2020-01-09T17:36:45.653" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11730" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11725" CreationDate="2020-01-08T20:51:22.160" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Thanks to fred_dot_u, I found the solution : &#xA;the post processing scripts configuration is saved... in the printer profile. So, you cannot directly duplicate it, but re-installing a second occurrence of the same printer will clear the post processing scripts list, you can get them back by selecting the modified one...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19706" LastEditorUserId="19706" LastEditDate="2020-01-12T16:46:58.173" LastActivityDate="2020-01-12T16:46:58.173" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11731" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-01-08T22:02:14.887" Score="2" ViewCount="89" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been, unsuccessfully, in contact with AirWolf and have concluded that there is no formal documentation available for their Apex slicer software that would explain what all the various parameters do and what the ramifications are.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since the Apex slicer is supposedly based on the Cura slicer, I am now wondering what would be the appropriate version of Cura to research.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8092" LastActivityDate="2020-01-08T22:02:14.887" Title="Seeking documentation for Apex slicer on AirWolf 3D printer" Tags="|slicing|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11733" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11710" CreationDate="2020-01-09T17:53:50.910" Score="0" Body="&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You can manually edit the file. Look for the line that has the Z height of your choice, and insert the temp change g-code right above it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Upgrade to a real slicer like Simplify3D with has an options to set a heater temp at different layers.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Preheat the bed before you print, then print with a bed temp set lower than the temp you preheated at. This will give the illusion of a temp change.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;(I for one turn off my bed after the first layer, when I'm printing PLA. I also don't have proper cooling (at this time), my environment is humid (59.9%) and the ambient air temp is 31C.) - just for context&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12857" LastActivityDate="2020-01-09T17:53:50.910" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11734" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11278" CreationDate="2020-01-09T21:39:54.743" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Looking at the picture, the first thing that came to mind was, &quot;are you sure it's the bed?&quot;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The height variance looks very regular, and while I'm unfamiliar with this printer's specific mechanics, my thought process trended to the Ender 3 and other v-wheel extruder mounts. If the extruder and gantry carriages are mounted to the gantry spars on V-wheels instead of sleeve bushings or other linear guides, and you've spent a lot of time printing small objects where those wheels are going back and forth over a relatively small travel distance for the entire print, you have been unevenly wearing the wheels so they've become eccentric around their rotational center, and this will cause the extruder to vary its height over the glass in a very regular pattern tied to the circumference of these carriage wheels. This happens especially quickly if you over-tighten the bearings against the gantry spars in an attempt to make the printer more precise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the printer uses sleeve bushings, the worn sleeve won't rotate, and any wear on the spar will be very localized to the areas in which you print, but if the printer has spent most of its life printing a grid of small objects (tokens, sets of small figurines), you can still get this regular wear pattern as the printer will spend more time over those areas of the bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The fix is to replace the wheels or linear bearings if the printer uses them. If it uses sleeve bushings and the gantry spars themselves are worn in this pattern, you might be able to rotate the spars to put an unworn (or less worn) band of metal on the top of the spar, depending on how the spars are mounted into the endcaps of the frame and y-axis carriages.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19313" LastActivityDate="2020-01-09T21:39:54.743" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11735" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11638" CreationDate="2020-01-10T04:14:24.527" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't have a glass bed, but I've had a lot of luck with using dental floss to get stuck prints loose. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can get the floss under the edge of the print, then you just pull it through to the other side. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This technique takes some practice but works really well once you get the hang of it.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10422" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-01-10T07:04:19.050" LastActivityDate="2020-01-10T07:04:19.050" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11738" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11740" CreationDate="2020-01-11T03:21:19.340" Score="4" ViewCount="1023" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've recently added a second hotend and extruder assembly to my 3D printer and I've made all the necessary changes in the firmware. I've defined the temp sensor for hotend 2, all the pins for heat and temp as well as defined extruders as 2 instead of 1. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem is that the printer display in the motion menu is showing &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Extruder&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Extruder E1&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Extruder E2&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;Extruder&quot; and &quot;Extruder E1&quot; both control the primary extruder and &quot;Extruder 2&quot; controls the second extruder. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any tips, ideas, suggestions?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19164" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-01-11T08:28:57.400" LastActivityDate="2020-01-11T08:33:41.313" Title="Marlin firmware question for dual extruder" Tags="|marlin|extruder|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11739" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-01-11T07:08:50.370" Score="2" ViewCount="82" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm just getting into 3D printing, and I got a FabPro 1000 (to make miniatures, mainly). I've tested it by trying to print a few things, but it's been a disaster every time: &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/G7zth.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/G7zth.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;my 3D printing attempts&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It just prints out these flat little discs that have fallen into the resin-filled tray, not stuck to the top surface as they should. I don't have an agitator, but I shake the material really well before use and fill the tray a decent amount. &lt;a href=&quot;https://mega.nz/#!1ZcWnSJT!WHHhKz3LgXE4piKEYA1wgYr9UMWMjloZD6SIX88pWhE&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Here&lt;/a&gt;'s my latest config file, if anyone wants to see. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is my printer broken or am I doing something wrong? How can I figure out what's causing this to happen? Is there any other information I should provide? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19741" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-01-11T13:44:58.730" LastActivityDate="2020-06-09T08:32:30.247" Title="FabPro 1000 making flat little discs?" Tags="|troubleshooting|resin|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11740" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11738" CreationDate="2020-01-11T08:28:09.793" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is nothing to worry about, this is a &lt;a href=&quot;http://marlinfw.org/docs/features/lcd_menu.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;feature not a bug&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;code&gt;Extruder&lt;/code&gt; refers to the active extruder, the &lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#T:_Select_Tool&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;loaded/active tool&lt;/a&gt;. Based on the active extruder the &lt;code&gt;Extruder&lt;/code&gt; controls either your &lt;code&gt;Extruder E1&lt;/code&gt; (this is known in the firmware as &lt;code&gt;Extruder E0&lt;/code&gt;!) or your &lt;code&gt;Extruder E2&lt;/code&gt; (the &lt;code&gt;Extruder E1&lt;/code&gt; from the firmware).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-01-11T08:33:41.313" LastActivityDate="2020-01-11T08:33:41.313" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11741" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-01-11T13:50:08.627" Score="2" ViewCount="61" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was considering the possibility to 3D print some capacitors with various forms and shapes in order to test them. I need to be able to print both the non-conductive and the conductive materials at the same time so I have the following questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I suppose that since I need to do multi-material printing, i will have to stick with FDM. Is that correct?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I have seen that there are some PLA materials that are mixed with dust of metals and become conductive themselves. Do they become also capacitive? Are there any better options for a conductive material in a multi-material scenario?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19746" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-01-11T14:14:08.757" LastActivityDate="2020-01-20T02:29:16.193" Title="Conductive materials quality" Tags="|print-material|material|multi-material|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11742" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-01-11T14:31:32.183" Score="1" ViewCount="67" Body="&lt;p&gt;does anyone know something about Autodesk Ember print issues? &#xA;Currently I am working on my master thesis and I would like to print with the Ember 3D printer a holder (see attachment) using the Luxaprint 3D mould from Detax. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JGJRi.png&quot; alt=&quot;This is the holder I would like to print with a size of 9 mm x 9 mm[1]&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Opfea.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Opfea.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My problem is as you can see it, the resolution &#xA;of print quality is very bad. Does anyone has an idea how to solve this problem? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks a lot!! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19747" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2020-01-12T22:16:44.393" LastActivityDate="2020-01-12T22:16:44.393" Title="3D print Ember Autodesk issues affect print quality" Tags="|print-quality|dlp|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11743" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-01-11T20:16:00.397" Score="2" ViewCount="283" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have just purchased the above 3D printer and the mount for the spool does not fit the new spool. The external spigots are too large and there is no axle shaft that would have helped.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a photo of the spool:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/udHcr.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Spool&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/udHcr.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Spool&quot; title=&quot;Spool&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has anyone else had this problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;I am looking for something that fitted in original hole/area.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19752" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2021-07-12T17:03:25.317" LastActivityDate="2021-07-12T17:03:25.317" Title="Flashforge Adventurer 3 Spool mounting" Tags="|flashforge-adventurer-3|flashforge|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11744" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11766" CreationDate="2020-01-11T20:48:08.260" Score="3" ViewCount="1931" Body="&lt;p&gt;My printer came with a knock off BuildTak like build surface. What can I use to clean it? I don't want to damage it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10422" LastActivityDate="2020-01-13T16:52:54.750" Title="What should I use to clean buildtak(knock off)?" Tags="|build-plate|maintenance|cleaning|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11745" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11707" CreationDate="2020-01-11T20:52:59.910" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have had good luck using dental floss. If you can get it under the edge of the print, then you can pull it all the way through and prints come off easily. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10422" LastActivityDate="2020-01-11T20:52:59.910" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11746" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11744" CreationDate="2020-01-12T01:28:50.690" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Isopropyl alcohol (IPA) is the general recommendation I've heard and it works well for me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2020-01-12T01:28:50.690" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11747" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11748" CreationDate="2020-01-12T05:09:11.163" Score="2" ViewCount="199" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to create two piece labels for storage containers. The main piece would be the “badge” which would have text cut out of it (e.g. “Paint”, “Electrical” etc.). The second piece would be a positive of the text which is would be in a different colour, and would fit inside the cut out on the badge. Because of the tolerance of 3D printers, I need to make the insert slightly smaller than the cut out. Initially, I thought I could just scale the insert but that would affect the letter spacing. Then I thought it would work if I could somehow taper the letters so they are slightly smaller at the top than the bottom. So my question is, how I do that. I did the original in OpenScad but I would try Fusion360 if that’s a better solution. Any and all suggestions are welcome. Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19756" LastActivityDate="2020-01-13T18:59:51.853" Title="Creating a two part label for storage boxes" Tags="|openscad|fusion360|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11748" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11747" CreationDate="2020-01-12T05:36:01.700" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In OpenSCAD, apply the &lt;code&gt;offset&lt;/code&gt; transformation to inset the letter outlines before extruding them. However you may find it works better to fill the sunken letter shapes with nail polish then remove the overflow with acetone; see my question &amp;amp; answer &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/10872/11157&quot;&gt;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/10872/11157&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2020-01-12T05:36:01.700" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11750" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11751" CreationDate="2020-01-12T13:51:21.467" Score="6" ViewCount="10387" Body="&lt;p&gt;I currently only have access to an old, 32 bit OS and need to slice a couple things. While there are a lot of slicers around, most popular ones, for example Ultimaker Cura 4, need to run on a 64 bit operation system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What somewhat recent (late 2018, 2019) options offering common abilities are there that run on older computers?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="13883" LastEditDate="2020-01-15T15:03:40.400" LastActivityDate="2022-12-30T10:14:19.360" Title="Slicer for 32 Bit Operating systems?" Tags="|slicing|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11751" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11750" CreationDate="2020-01-12T13:51:21.467" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The last version of Ultimaker Cura that supported 32-bit Operation Systems was &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/Ultimaker/Cura/releases/tag/2.3.1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Cura 2.3.1&lt;/a&gt; of 2016, which of course has a lot of items not yet in it and doesn't fit the demand of offering some update at worst from 2018.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;32-bit support is starting to fade from the support of projects, as 64-bit makes a lot of things much easier and faster and 32 Bit Windows likewise is pretty much a dead-end branch with Windows 7 Support being discontinued on January 14th, 2020. For example, the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.slicer.org/wiki/Documentation/4.10/SlicerApplication/HardwareConfiguration#32_bit_versus_64_bit&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Slicer&lt;/a&gt; project says on their documentation of the May 2019 4.10 version: &amp;quot;We do not make 32 bit builds available.&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Yet there is rescue with the Slic3r-Family!&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://slic3r.org&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Slic3r&lt;/a&gt; 1.3.0 is open source, available as 32 and 64-bit versions, and was released in November 2018, making it somewhat up to date. You need to customize a lot of settings in it, but it is after all quite a powerful slicer - for which you have to &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6355/writing-g-code-swiping-at-start-of-print&quot;&gt;write your own Start Code&lt;/a&gt;, define your filament settings and machine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.repetier.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Repetier Host 2.1.6&lt;/a&gt; is likewise a 32-bit application. It's technically a console with slicing features and uses one of several engines to slice - including the Slic3r and Slic3r Prusa Edition engines, which run on 32-bit. In comparison to Slic3r, I find its UI for placing items a little more user-friendly. It does pull the settings from Slic3r, if you have that installed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.prusa3d.com/prusaslicer/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Slic3r Prusa Edition/PrusaSlicer&lt;/a&gt; is a derivate of the Slic3r project. 2.2.9 was released in December 2019. It too runs on 32 bit systems. Even &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/prusa3d/PrusaSlicer/releases/download/version_2.4.2/PrusaSlicer-2.4.2+win32-202204251123.zip&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;2.4.2&lt;/a&gt; of the end of 2022 has 32 bit support. It is, UI-wise, even more comfortable than Repetier Host and is somewhat similar to Ultimaker Cura 4.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2022-12-30T08:45:14.467" LastActivityDate="2022-12-30T08:45:14.467" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11752" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11744" CreationDate="2020-01-12T14:00:24.907" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Besides IPA (80 %), which is one of the best cleaners for general pourpose, 99 % ethanol (&quot;Spiritus&quot;) can work as a good substitute.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Acetone too can be used on BuildTak and its clones in a pitch without damaging it, as long as it is kept away from the edges, where it could weaken the bond to the aluminium. Using it repeatedly could however smooth the surface over some.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mineral Spirits might be useful to prepare the aluminium for a new bed, but sould &lt;strong&gt;not&lt;/strong&gt; be used on the BuildTak or its clones, as it could harm the surface and leave residue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2020-01-13T16:51:31.617" LastActivityDate="2020-01-13T16:51:31.617" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11753" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11747" CreationDate="2020-01-12T14:08:18.453" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Fusion 360 can be easily used to &lt;strong&gt;alter the design&lt;/strong&gt;. It has a button under &lt;code&gt;Construction &amp;gt; Edit &amp;gt; Push/Pull&lt;/code&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/51SAC.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/51SAC.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;. Using this tool allows to select one or more surfaces and shift them all outside or inside as needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An alternative would be to include the &lt;strong&gt;size difference in design&lt;/strong&gt;. By selecting a line or loop and then pressing &lt;code&gt;O&lt;/code&gt; opens a menu that easily creates an outline shifted by a specified ammount.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Tapering&lt;/strong&gt; the extrusion is also easy: When extruding, one can choose to extrude with a -1°, resulting in a smaller size on the far side from the extrusion. positive angles make the far side larger.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:29:41.667" LastActivityDate="2020-01-12T14:08:18.453" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11754" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-01-12T14:27:48.803" Score="2" ViewCount="289" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've tried to apply a sharp blade (the one that came witht he printer) to scrape the model off like I usually do but this model seems overly robust. What method can I do to take this off safely? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See image &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/c9nIu.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/c9nIu.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;at&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19758" LastActivityDate="2020-01-18T20:31:06.033" Title="Model stuck on the heating bed" Tags="|pla|bed|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11755" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11722" CreationDate="2020-01-12T15:06:12.800" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;@Oscar was correct, so long as the switch is set at 220 V, the printer will turn on. I am adding this answer to help anyone else who has a similar problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I strongly recommend that you buy a multimeter if you have any power supply issues, as this helped me to figure out what was wrong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There were three issues that needed to be rectified before my printer would turn on. The first was that I had bought a fairly cheap EU to UK plug converter from my local supermarket. This was mistake number one, as the quality was low and there was no ground pin for the power supply (which is dangerous). I plugged the EU plug into my converter, and then the converter into the UK mains socket, and it would not turn on. By using my multimeter I was able to figure out that the converter was a piece of rubbish. With the plug still plugged into the converter, but the converter removed from the mains, I touched my multimeter cable, whilst in continuity mode, on one of the three pins on the UK side of the converter (the bit that goes into the wall), and the other cable onto one of the terminals that I had connected the power cable to the power supply with. I touched each terminal in sequence to see if it was electrically connected to the pin on the converter. I repeated this in sequence and identified that the live pin on the converter was not connected, and so no current could flow when plugged into mains. I immediately defenestrated the converter. Here is the replacement that I bought:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00QGYY5DC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;psc=1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;EU to UK converter&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The next issue was that the power supply cable was wired up incorrectly (or at least unintuitively). In continuity mode again, I touched one multimeter cable to one pin on the EU plug of my power supply, and the other to one of the terminals (which were connected to the wiring of my power cable.) I discovered that the live and neutral wires of the power cable were wired the wrong way round on the plug (in order for it to be used in a UK converter, not sure what the wiring convention is on mainland EU). In the UK, the right hole in the mains socket is live, the left is neutral, and the top one is ground. On the EU plug I had been provided with, the left pin was live and the right pin was neutral. If I were to plug this in to the new converter in the normal orientation (cable coming out the bottom side), the live and neutral would have been connected incorrectly (plug-live -&gt; converter-neutral, plug-neutral -&gt; converter-live). Hence, in order for the pins to be situated correctly in the converter, and subsequently in the mains socket, the EU plug had to be plugged into the converter upside down (plug-live -&gt; converter-live, plug-neutral -&gt; converter-neutral). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Finally, the official instructions for the wiring of the Anet A6 are wrong.&lt;/strong&gt; If you follow the youtube video that they provide, you will see that the positive terminal is closest to the bottom of the diagram (on the thermistor/endstop side of the board). &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/mQzOHL_89nc?t=1530&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Mainboard wiring instructions&lt;/a&gt;. THIS IS INCORRECT. Check your board, as the polarity will be printed onto the board. If you wire up the mainboard according to the instructions, your V+ wire will go to the negative terminal of the mainboard and, your positive terminal will go to the COM wire of the power supply. This is wrong, as the positive terminal should be connected to the V+ wire, and the negative to COM.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hopefully this helps save someone some frustration and time!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19704" LastActivityDate="2020-01-12T15:06:12.800" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11756" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11767" CreationDate="2020-01-13T00:32:15.113" Score="3" ViewCount="1863" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have recently bought an Anycubic i3 Mega S 3D printer. I'm using the stock nozzle (.4&amp;nbsp;mm) and I print with the plastic it came with (ABS). I'm using &lt;code&gt;Ultimaker 4.4.1&lt;/code&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I print minis, I'm always having issues removing the support the slicer software adds to print the object. Most of the time, I end up breaking parts of my minis. I'm using the tools given with the box.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do I make this process easier ? I'm mostly interested in the settings linked with the support generation, but if there are other ways, I would like to know. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that the minis are for DnD characters, thus printed objects are often not flat and contain multiple curves, which then creates support that are harder to remove, for example, in between the holder of the mini (the cylinder that holds the piece in a stand up position) and the legs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I usually print models found online for free, but from time to time I buy some models which contain a lot of details than the free counter parts. I don't mind loosing some of those details, as long as the mini is well printed (in short, I don't mind if the sheath of the sword falls off, but I do care if the arm falls off)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19675" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-01-13T16:44:45.250" LastActivityDate="2020-01-14T14:31:57.610" Title="How to ease the process of removing support for miniatures" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|support-structures|anycubic-i3-mega|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11757" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-01-13T05:00:17.237" Score="1" ViewCount="634" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know the the thread pitch or number of steps for the Wanhao Duplicator 6 / Monoprice Maker Ultimate?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19764" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-01-13T06:20:22.080" LastActivityDate="2020-01-13T06:20:22.080" Title="Wanhao Duplicator 6 / Monoprice Maker Ultimate thread pitch or number of steps?" Tags="|firmware|monoprice-maker-ultimate|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11758" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11757" CreationDate="2020-01-13T06:19:56.257" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you navigate to e.g. the Marlin printer firmware configuration file for the &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/blob/2.0.x/config/examples/Wanhao/Duplicator%206/Configuration.h&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Wanhao Duplicator 6&lt;/a&gt; you will find that the steps per mm are defined as:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;/**&#xA; * Default Axis Steps Per Unit (steps/mm)&#xA; * Override with M92&#xA; *                                      X, Y, Z, E0 [, E1[, E2...]]&#xA; */&#xA;#define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT   { 80.0395, 80.0395, 400.48, 99.1 }&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sidenote, somebody who posted this has diligently tried to tune their machine, this should read:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT   { 80., 80., 400., 100. }&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From these values you can tune your own if needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now we do the math with the following assumptions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;400 steps per mm, &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;standard 200 steps per revolution stepper motor (1.8&amp;deg;) and &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;assuming that your board uses 1/16 &amp;micro;-steps&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Dividing the physical stepper steps per revolution by the firmware steps per millimeter we can calculate how much the nut advanced in a single revolution, i.e. 200/(400/16) = 200/25 = 8 millimeter. The nut therefor advanced 8&amp;nbsp;mm per complete revolution of the stepper. This means you will most probably have &lt;a href=&quot;/q/5641&quot;&gt;Tr8x8(P2)&lt;/a&gt; lead screws.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do note that there are online calculators that can help you out doing the math for you, e.g. this &lt;a href=&quot;https://blog.prusaprinters.org/calculator/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;RepRap calculator page&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2020-01-13T06:19:56.257" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11759" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2020-01-13T06:47:09.400" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Anycubic i3 Mega (and S) is a solid, metal-framed 3D printer that comes mostly assembled. Assembly is easy and takes only a few minutes. It is capable of producing high quality prints. Stable construction and fine layer resolution down to 0.05&amp;nbsp;mm. It supports multiple filament materials, including PLA, ABS, High Impact Polystyrene (HIPS) and wood. The S model has an upgraded extruder (Titan extruder) and a filament mount attached to the frame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-01-13T06:47:09.400" LastActivityDate="2020-01-13T06:47:09.400" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11760" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2020-01-13T06:47:09.400" Score="0" Body="For any question about the Anycubic Mega series 3D printers" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-01-13T06:47:09.400" LastActivityDate="2020-01-13T06:47:09.400" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11761" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-01-13T12:13:05.590" Score="1" ViewCount="101" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are there any statistics regarding how many units each manufacturer has sold, e.g. in 2019?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinterchat.com/top-selling-3d-printers/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;An article&lt;/a&gt; from 2016 claims Monoprice to have led the market back then - but all of the printers in that article have become obsolete since then.&#xA;Some manufacturers also claim theirs to be &quot;one of the most popular&quot; - but that likely doesn't translate to sales, at least for the more overpriced ones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13171" LastActivityDate="2020-01-17T16:49:33.127" Title="3D printer manufacturers - sales statistics" Tags="|desktop-printer|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11763" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11761" CreationDate="2020-01-13T14:47:39.943" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Getting this data is not easy.  Many companies that make 3D printers are either private companies that do not report results or are larger companies where 3D printers are one of many products they manufacture.  Some companies study this information through mining public sources and surveying users for their opinions and experience.  The result of some of these studies are available for a fee.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Occasionally, a trade publication will survey data sources and produce an article.  In other cases, a trade pub will publish an article generously offered by a commercial contributor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is always difficult to know what is true when abstracting information from obscured, noisy, and biased information sources.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your question itself includes a bias.  You use a words that include a value judgement: &quot;but that likely doesn't translate to sales, at least for the more overpriced ones.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The article you reference is not a deeply researched investigative piece.  It is simply some product details for the five printers in 2016 which sold the most on Amazon.com.  It doesn't include printers which were not sold on Amazon, so it leaves out any printers which use a different distribution channel.  Also, the article include an link, probably which generate revenue back to the magazine, to each of the five printers sold through Amazon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To summarize, it is very difficult to aggregate this kind of information.  Those who try to do so like to be compensated.  A list of the top five devices on Amazon is a biased list.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2082" LastEditorUserId="2082" LastEditDate="2020-01-13T14:53:31.260" LastActivityDate="2020-01-13T14:53:31.260" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11764" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="740" CreationDate="2020-01-13T14:52:38.547" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would add OnShape.com to the list.  The only downside of a free account is that your designs are publicly viewable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would also add support for OpenSCAD.  It is my go-to program for difficult problems, especially where being able to script something is far more efficient that dozens of clicks and careful GUI actions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2082" LastActivityDate="2020-01-13T14:52:38.547" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11765" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11309" CreationDate="2020-01-13T15:37:00.877" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In favor of glass:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Smoother surface gives you a nicer bottom layer (though Kapton-layered steel is no slouch)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;More even, regular surface makes bed easier to level&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Easy to prep and clean&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;More scratch-resistant makes getting under a part with a metal scraper a little less harrowing&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Corrosion-resistant (glass doesn't rust; silicon dioxide is in fact already about as oxidized as it can possibly be)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In favor of steel:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Flexes for easier release&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Safer (steel plates don't shatter, at least not at temperatures you're likely to use them)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Conducts heat better for faster and more even heating&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Slightly less expensive on average&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19313" LastEditorUserId="19313" LastEditDate="2020-01-13T18:07:46.533" LastActivityDate="2020-01-13T18:07:46.533" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11766" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11744" CreationDate="2020-01-13T16:52:54.750" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;For BuildTak, my first recommendation is isopropyl alcohol (aka rubbing alcohol or isopropanol). Readily available just about anywhere basic medical supplies are sold, it cuts though light oils and greases, and dissolves most common build surface adhesives like hairspray or Elmer's glue stick. In fact I often give my Ender's bed a light spray of isopropyl after an initial layer of hairspray, as the alcohol thins the hairspray a bit so I can take a plastic scraper and spread it around a little more evenly, before it sets to a very tacky initial surface that holds well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on where you live, denatured alcohol aka methyated spirits might be easier to get, and this stuff also works well as a cleaner and degreaser. The methanol does a little better job at actually removing old build adhesive instead of just &quot;reactivating&quot; it, and it also seems to do a little better than isopropyl at releasing and capturing old print residues that didn't make it off the surface with the rest of the print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Be aware that both the liquid and the vapors of both of these are toxic, denatured alcohol a little more so than isopropanol. You should have plenty of ventilation through your workspace while using either one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a deep clean, especially with a removable build surface, it's hard to beat a mild dish detergent and water, and a scrub with a Teflon-safe Scotch-Brite sponge (they're usually blue). A clean rinse, pat dry with a towel, then give it a spray of isopropanol to finish drying it and it's ready to go. This is more of a hassle and I don't recommend it as a quick between-prints cleaning, but it can bring a well-used bed surface right back to life when more volatile cleaning agents won't do it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whether it's worth the frustration getting the plate properly rinsed (soap, being slippery, is not going to aid adhesion), versus just scraping the surface back off and putting a new one on, depends on how easy it is to bring the bed surface to the sink. My Ender's magnetic surface makes this much easier than a simple adhesive-backed surface right on the aluminum. By the same token it also makes the surface easier to replace, and they're not that expensive (so I highly recommend them if you like BuildTak), but \$12 is \$12, compared to 5 minutes in the sink with some Palmolive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19313" LastActivityDate="2020-01-13T16:52:54.750" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11767" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11756" CreationDate="2020-01-13T17:09:14.420" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Let's look at the factors that can help us get support parts printed and removed:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;access&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;dimensions/size&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;bonding&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;debonding&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;access&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Support structure has to be accessed to be removed. Tree support could help in this. An alternative would be soluable support, which is still accessible if buried deep in a part - as the solvent would be all that needs to access the part.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;dimensions/size&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Support structure needs to have some crossection to be printed at all. if it gets too small, it will fail to print and fail in supporting. You might alter the support angle to support even 40° or 30° surfaces to the vertical to forcefully increase the supported area and thus dimension of the support structure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;bonding (to bed)&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To make sure the part and its supports don't shift from one another, it is best to print with a brim that makes sure all support trees and the base of the model all share a combined first layer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;debonding&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Debonding means, we need to remove the support structure from the printed part. Ultimaker Cura allows to define a gap from support structure to the part, usually 2 layers. With these settings removing supports can be as easy as removing the brim and careful cleanup.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Other things&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;No support?!&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some miniatures have lots of unsupported areas. For example &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1711097&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this knight&lt;/a&gt; needs support at the hilt of the sword, the arm and the helmet overhang. &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3006182&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;This dwarf&lt;/a&gt; might need support at his dagger in the back and on the left arm (and was resin printed).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, with the proper design, there is sometimes no support needed. For example &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:144775&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this pirate&lt;/a&gt; has no areas that need support for overhangs or free hanging areas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Printing speed&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Printing miniatures and intricate parts is hard. I have set up an older, small TronXY with a 0.2 mm nozzle just to print small and detailed items, usually engineering models. I print them &lt;em&gt;slower&lt;/em&gt; than normal (ca 40 mm/s, 20 mm for the outer shell).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:29:41.667" LastActivityDate="2020-01-14T14:31:57.610" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11768" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11754" CreationDate="2020-01-13T17:30:09.127" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately, you may have to destroy this part, or the build surface, just to get it off the plate. It looks really on there, and if you can't get under it even with a razor that further supports my gut instinct. It's happened to me before, just part of learning how to print with a particular material on a particular printer and build surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One thing to try before just hacking away at the part or replacing the build surface (which you may have to do anyway) would be to heat the plate back up to maybe 60-70*C, then hit the part with some freeze spray (or the poor man's version, turning a can of air duster upside-down). The rapid expansion-contraction may pop the part free. How effective this is depends on the plastic you used. PLA doesn't stretch and shrink much, but by the same token it's also very inflexible, so the stretching and shrinking it does do can stil pop the part off. This method's &lt;em&gt;really&lt;/em&gt; effective for plastics like ABS that stretch/shrink a lot with heat. Remember to ventilate well; the principal component of these sprays is difluoroethane, which isn't great stuff to breathe in any significant concentration, and when spraying the liquid the resulting &quot;steam&quot; state of boiling liquid is much more flammable (so after the bed comes up to proper heat, I'd turn off the printer just in case).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: Per the comment to this answer, an alternate method would be to heat the plate even further, to about 80-90*C, which would heat the PLA beyond its glass transition temperature, softening it and reducing its adhesion. You would destroy the part, but parts can be reprinted, that's the beauty of owning a general-purpose computer-controlled additive plastic forming machine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your first layer including the brim looks a little close to the plate, which is part of the problem; you &lt;em&gt;really&lt;/em&gt; squished that first layer down onto the bed. I would relevel the bed a bit further away, or (if you're happy with how actually level the bed is) set a Z-offset to increase first layer width. There's a very fine balance to be struck here; once you find it, printing (and removing said prints) becomes a lot easier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In future, a build adhesive like Elmer's glue stick or hairspray (or a dedicated adhesive like 3DLAC or Bed Weld) also doubles as a release agent; the adhesive grabs the extruded plastic to keep it on the plate, but also prevents direct contact between two plastics and thus avoids any chemical bonding between the part and plate. Also consider upgrading to a flexible removable surface, like a magnetic BuildTak surface. Being able to take the bed off the printer and then flex the surface to help  pull a corner free (at which point you can slip a scraper in to lift the rest of it off) is a real boon to these types of situations. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19313" LastEditorUserId="19313" LastEditDate="2020-01-17T19:06:56.280" LastActivityDate="2020-01-17T19:06:56.280" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11769" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11747" CreationDate="2020-01-13T18:59:51.853" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You will need to run test prints to see how your printer behaves with your choice of filaments.  Then you'll know how much narrower the letter-lines (not the letter dimensions)  need to be to fit.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem with that is one of making letters with narrow solid parts but without &quot;shrinking&quot; the open parts so that they fit into the badge receptacle regions.  You can't just reduce the dimensions of the letters themselves.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other than what Trish's answer suggests, I'd recommend either using a very small nozzle diameter and setting a narrow linewidth to reduce the &quot;over-dimensioning&quot; effects.  Even better would be to identify the letters separately from the badge but keep them as a single STL and use a two-color printer (twin extruders, etc) to make the badge in one run. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2191" LastActivityDate="2020-01-13T18:59:51.853" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11770" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8322" CreationDate="2020-01-14T08:03:00.157" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have the same kind of issues I'm also using Sunlu white filament 210&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C and bed at 60&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C on a CR-10S also original BLtouch v3.1&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On some parts of the bed it's okay but in the middle and some corners it's too high and doesn't stick (really annoying). I bought the BLtouch to avoid this kind of issues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have printed many things with no issues and with this filament It's making some trouble.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ok I have solved the issue, the problem is Sunlu pla+ filament.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems that their filament is really hard to adhere to bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found on another forum that you need to increase bed temperature up to 70° and head to 220 °c at least for the few first layers and don't go under 215°.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;also moving the head a bit lower to skish the filament on bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried and got much better adhesion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope it will help other people&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16818" LastEditorUserId="16818" LastEditDate="2020-01-17T13:48:38.620" LastActivityDate="2020-01-17T13:48:38.620" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11771" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11772" CreationDate="2020-01-14T13:02:07.870" Score="1" ViewCount="344" Body="&lt;p&gt;I currently have a single extruder (direct drive) Tronxy X8.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am thinking about adding a second extruder, that I would use only occasionally. I really like the characteristics of the direct drive extruder, so I would not want to switch over to dual Bowden. Also adding the weight of a full second direct drive extruder for only occasional use does not seem useful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it possible to use a direct drive extruder as main extruder and a (possibly detachable) bowden extruder as secondary extruder?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there anything in particular that I need to watch out for when mixing extruder types?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13550" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-01-14T14:15:45.420" LastActivityDate="2020-02-13T17:01:50.253" Title="Adding a Bowden extruder to a direct drive setup" Tags="|extruder|bowden|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11772" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11771" CreationDate="2020-01-14T16:47:17.910" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm an amateur and I used dual extruder printers but never built any.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's probably a good idea, take care about the purge, retractions distances that may vary. On the filament feed side there shouldn't be interference from the different flexibility. Still it maybe good to place one reel on one side and the other on the opposite. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now the most complex thing is to make both nozzle not interfere. A technique is to rotate by few (like 5°) the dual setup to give few millimeter more to one of the two nozzles. If both heads are at the same height, you'll need to keep them hot, and avoid the passive one to leak. It would be good also (but not mandatory) to have a purge routine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19781" LastActivityDate="2020-01-14T16:47:17.910" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11773" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="740" CreationDate="2020-01-14T17:14:47.980" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've had good luck using &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.microsoft.com/en-us/p/3d-builder/9wzdncrfj3t6&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;MS 3D Builder&lt;/a&gt;. Most of &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/jcoehoorn/designs&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;my thingiverse models&lt;/a&gt; were designed with 3D Builder. Depending on your Windows and Office installations, &lt;em&gt;this program may already be on your computer&lt;/em&gt;, but otherwise you install it via the Windows Store. This program may also make good use of your math skills; I've done more trigonometry getting dimensions right for my models than all other areas of my life combined.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.meshmixer.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;MeshMixer&lt;/a&gt; is another good free option. It's significantly more powerful than 3D Builder and many other free options, but I've found it much harder to get comfortable using. The visualization, especially, just hasn't been as clean, often making sharp edges appear to be rounded on the screen. Still, and I know and desire the power it offers, and I'll occasionally open it up for specific things. If nothing else, it's good for measuring/verifying the thickness of a section, and sometimes I can use it to repair models botched by other programs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, I'll bring up &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.openscad.org/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;OpenSCAD&lt;/a&gt; again. OpenSCAD effectively lets you write a program to generate your models. As such, it's especially good when creating things you will want to do more than once, where you'll tweak or customize the initial part for later uses. One way you can achieve re-use like this is creating a library of partial-designs or raw shapes which you can then resize/stretch/etc and add or mix into other parts using the other programs. The other area where OpenSCAD really shines is in prototyping. When you discover just this one section of a part shoud have been a couple millimeters longer after the initial print, it's much easier to adjust this with OpenSCAD than with many of the other options.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12562" LastEditorUserId="12562" LastEditDate="2020-01-15T06:05:42.013" LastActivityDate="2020-01-15T06:05:42.013" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11774" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11261" CreationDate="2020-01-14T20:00:26.787" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've bought an SKR Pro V1.1 which is suffering from the same problem. It has actually to do with a shortcoming or design flaw (of the &quot;HAL&quot; or &quot;Hardware Abstraction Layer&quot; addressing of SPI devices) of Marlin and access to the SD card; I &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/pull/16260&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;quote&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The problem: On board SD-Card on SKR-PRO 1.1 can't be used. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After the SD card has been inserted, the firmware binary is loaded into memory, and all access to the SD card is gone. The initial connection is by hardware design of the SKR boards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically, there is a bug in the Marlin code/SKR boards preventing storing (to the SD card) any alterations after the firmware is loaded. There is a &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/pull/16260&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;PR on Marlin&lt;/a&gt; that fixes it, but it has not been merged into Marlin yet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are 2 options, &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Every change to the firmware has to be compiled and uploaded to the board by placing a hex (firmware.bin) on the SD card;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Compile a firmware version from the sources from the fore mentioned PR.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2020-01-14T20:00:26.787" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11775" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11776" CreationDate="2020-01-15T06:05:27.030" Score="2" ViewCount="437" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am wondering if it is possible to print with a 3D printer from an SD card and connect to a serial host at the same time. I want to use the Marlin &lt;code&gt;M118&lt;/code&gt; serial print command to trigger custom functions running on a Raspberry Pi. The RPi would be connected to the printer over serial but would not be sending G-code. Is this possible?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My printer is the Monoprice Mini Delta. It runs a Marlin based firmware and I can install standard Marlin on it if necessary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6003" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-01-15T08:20:07.643" LastActivityDate="2020-01-15T13:40:43.360" Title="Print from SD and connect to serial host at the same time" Tags="|marlin|electronics|repetier|serial-connection|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11776" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11775" CreationDate="2020-01-15T13:30:01.897" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;This can be done, but you need to have the right order of operations. &lt;a href=&quot;https://octoprint.org/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Octoprint&lt;/a&gt; relies on such a setup. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Set up the serial connection &lt;strong&gt;first&lt;/strong&gt;, as sending the connect signal from your terminal or Raspberry to Marlin triggers the printer to reboot.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;After having the connection established, start the printjob either via the control buttons or the remote console (for example: Octoprint or Repetier Server, running on your Raspberry)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that you have to make sure not to dis- and reconnect the raspberry during print, as that might trigger a reboot of the printer!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2020-01-15T13:40:43.360" LastActivityDate="2020-01-15T13:40:43.360" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11777" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-01-15T14:55:34.200" Score="1" ViewCount="1332" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Background&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After installing a direct drive extruder (E3D Hemera) to my CR-10S, I calibrated the E-steps so that adequate extrusion would happen; going from ~95&amp;nbsp;steps/mm to ~390&amp;nbsp;steps/mm. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had a couple of days of &lt;em&gt;mostly&lt;/em&gt; successful prints. Some under extrusion (or no extrusion) happened here and there, solved by calibrating Vref for my extruder (from 455&amp;nbsp;mA to ~800&amp;nbsp;mA). I was then able to print a thing or two.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then, after a couple of days, I had major under extrusion problems. (To the point that it looked like only the infill was being mostly printed despite using the same slice settings on past successful prints.) I looked up under extrusion causes (temp, bed level, speeds, idler tension, etc) and nothing seemed to apply, except for idler tension, which I cranked up. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Despite being certain that I didn't do anything to reset my step settings (namely resetting EEPROM) I decided that I might as well check to see what my steps are set to. Lo and behold, my steps were back down to 95. No wonder I was under extruding, I was only pushing a quarter of plastic out! Sending an &lt;code&gt;M92&lt;/code&gt; I was able to get the E-steps back to where they belong. Benchy came out with some droopy layers, so I was over extruding. I tweaked the idler tension (since I cranked it tight earlier) and for the most part that seemed to help. I came to have other issues (like a potential clogged nozzle) so I'm not sure how much calibration is needed as plastic isn't feeding, but I digress...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What could have happened to cause my e-steps to reset? The obvious being resetting the EEPROM, which I am most sure I didn't do. Is there anything else that could have happened?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;My setup&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Printer:&lt;/strong&gt; Creality CR-10S&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Firmware:&lt;/strong&gt; TH3D Unified Firmware U1.R2.22 (or one/two versions before it maybe) (firmware is Marlin based)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Extra:&lt;/strong&gt; OctoPi (Unsure of version, possibly most recent stable release) Other than starting prints, only used to set E steps and &lt;code&gt;G0&lt;/code&gt; commands before problem showed up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for future prevention of resetting to 95&amp;nbsp;steps/mm, I realize I just need to re-flash the firmware setting the E-steps to 390 or something.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13883" LastEditorUserId="13883" LastEditDate="2020-01-15T19:10:05.010" LastActivityDate="2020-01-15T19:10:05.010" Title="E-steps somehow reset, how could it have happened" Tags="|troubleshooting|firmware|creality-cr-10|th3d|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11778" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11780" CreationDate="2020-01-15T16:59:27.450" Score="2" ViewCount="387" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was just informed via a comment that the TH3D Unified firmware a version of Marlin that's no longer updated and considered obsolete (1.9.X in this case) and that, since I'm flashing my firmware to fix my default e-step settings, I might as well flash a non-obsolete firmware.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, something in the back of my mind is telling me that I can't use Marlin 2.0 because of some hardware limitation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm using the Creality CR-10S printer (with the Creality 2.0 board, I believe) which is an 8-bit CPU. What should I look out for before upgrading to Marlin 2.0?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://marlinfw.org/docs/basics/install.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Marlin's Install website&lt;/a&gt; suggests that 8-bit AVR printers can use it (flashing via Arduino IDE). SO I guess I'm double checking before I do something that could potentially brick my printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13883" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2020-01-15T17:06:55.910" LastActivityDate="2020-01-15T19:06:12.820" Title="What precautions to take when flashing Marlin 2.0?" Tags="|marlin|creality-cr-10|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11779" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11657" CreationDate="2020-01-15T17:44:11.820" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your question can not be answered theoretically -- only empirically.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You need to print some trial brackets with materials of interest and measure them.  The question is: under what conditions should you test them?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem is that creep involves both compression and tension, and the behavior may be different.  It is also impossible to fully translate material specifications into component behavior without a really good model that includes the details of the infill, adhesion to peripheries, and all the microscopic detail of a real 3D-printed part.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem with typical PLA may be the low temperature.  Raising the temperature of a normal PLA printed object to 160°F (70°C) softens it to the point of nearly being limp.  I have used this for force-fitting PLA parts by warming a pot of water and placing parts in it for a few moments.  That temperature is hotter than your room, but a hot summer day in the sunshine could soften the part to the point of failure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For anything load bearing, I would want a material with a higher plastic temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are PLA formulations which are annealed after printing.  This is claimed to allow the PLA to slowly recrystalize and become both stronger and usable at higher temperatures.  I don't have experience with this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on your printer, you can also consider using a higher temperature filament, such as ABS or PC (polycarbonate).  PET-G is a little better than PLA, but it softens at a lower temperature than ABS.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As important as the material itself is the anisotrophy of the printer parts.  Be sure to print the parts so that the major stresses are along the strongest axes, typically X and Y, and not along the weaker Z asis.  Choose your infill to contribute to the strength, and use plenty of it, or design the part so that the infill is not intended to contribute to the strength.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2082" LastEditorUserId="2082" LastEditDate="2020-01-15T17:54:51.240" LastActivityDate="2020-01-15T17:54:51.240" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11780" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11778" CreationDate="2020-01-15T18:47:58.090" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It wasn't advised to use the version 2.x because it was in development for 32-bit micro processors. Now that it has been released as the official version, you can use it for 8-bit micro processors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But, it totally depends on the amount of options in Marlin you activate (bed leveling, advanced menu, &lt;code&gt;M5xx&lt;/code&gt;, etc.). Luckily you can see how large the installation is after you have built it e.g. in PlatformIO. Also, in the configuration files frequently is mentioned how much extra storage activating an option costs (search for &lt;code&gt;PROGMEM&lt;/code&gt; in the &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Marlin sources&lt;/a&gt;). Unless you want all options active, you'll be fine. I'm running it on an AVR (MEGA2560) for a CoreXY with bed leveling and some more options; it runs fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-01-15T19:06:12.820" LastActivityDate="2020-01-15T19:06:12.820" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11781" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10508" CreationDate="2020-01-15T22:23:51.420" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had a devil of a time getting this &quot;greasy&quot; tpe85a to print from filaments.ca. Buried in the comments there:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;85A TPE Warping issue:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mesa K wrote on Filaments.ca to try the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&quot;Adhesion: this stuff does not stick to Prusa's smooth PEI sheets at all, it also did not stick to masking tape either. The solution I found was to tape a piece of printer paper to the bed (I used packing tape for this, but I would recommend masking tape or something else easier to remove).  I didn't have a glue stick or kapton tape to try, but those may work too.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's right, printing on a sheet of printer paper creates amazing adhesion for this stuff. I suspect it to be a bit of a &quot;greasy&quot;, oily filament at temp. When you drop a piece of popcorn on a sheet of paper, it leaves a grease slick. It is a permanent stain. So if this filament is a bit greasy (but much higher viscosity than melted butter ;-] ), literally, at temp, the paper would actually act as an absorbent material, and even as a degreaser on the point of contact with the filament.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am printing a phone case. I assume you have used a sheet of paper on top of this sheet of paper and leveled the bed perfectly using the paper as feeler gauge method, or all the rest of this advice is useless. Because of the close tolerances I use on the first layer, this is critical.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tips: Print a huge 1&amp;nbsp;cm brim in case you have to do last ditch intervention on the print. The brim is to prevent warping from the contact surface, but also as a place to tape the print down from the topside in case it decides to warp no matter what you try.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Extrusion: I am using a creality CR10V2 I converted to direct drive with a 0.2&amp;nbsp;mm nozzle. I replaced the stock stiff spring with a pair of ballpoint pen springs I hotglued together. ( I am kind of a barbarian.....) They put just enough tension on the tensioner wheel to reliably push the filament without it sticking to the drive gear. (Single drive gear extruder)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Set Cura to extrude at 112&amp;nbsp;% or in that range. It will not blob at that rate, but will have a nice fat line laid down. It created blobs for me at 115&amp;nbsp;% extrusion, so avoid going to 145&amp;nbsp;% like I tried at one point. Nice to know my ballpoint pen printer can do that....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The initial layer height will be set to 0.12&amp;nbsp;mm, with following layers set to 0.19&amp;nbsp;mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The wall width will be 0.2&amp;nbsp;mm and that &quot;excess&quot; in the above calc fills gaps and binds two side by side lines together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This stuff also contracts if the adhesion sucks, so extrude extra and it will not contract lengthwise so badly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Heat:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Extruder: 220&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C. My filament seems to get more plastic-y at higher temps. Lower temps made a softer, more flexible material. Also, printing at a lower temp reduces contraction related warping.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Heat Bed: 85&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C. Keep it there the whole print. This stuff likes the warm and contracts less if kept warm the whole print. I tried starting at 85&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C and letting it cool after the first layer to 40&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C, and all 4 sides came loose from the painters tape surface. Keep it hot!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Increasing your fan speed seems to help it contract as soon as it is laid down, laying a bead that has already contracted somewhat by the time it is embedded in the layer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other tips: Printing infill at 25&amp;nbsp;mm/s was too fast. I have it making nice prints at 18&amp;nbsp;mm/s throughout the print. TPE prints slow. Fails print slowly too. Lots of beautiful failures on the path to success... Knowledge gained from watching the machine print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The above guidelines will help you get prints without glue, sometimes with a bit of tape around the brim if it is really cranky.  Good luck, very tricky material to work with on large surface area prints.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19793" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-01-16T07:38:41.590" LastActivityDate="2020-01-16T07:38:41.590" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11782" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11783" CreationDate="2020-01-16T05:55:41.613" Score="2" ViewCount="2616" Body="&lt;p&gt;Say I wanted to print a plastic credit card like shape (like &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B07193KG7G&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;these&lt;/a&gt;), but with a QR code engraved. How could I do that for cheap? You can buy an &quot;ID card printer&quot; for $1,000-1,500 on Amazon, but that's way too much for printing one or two cards. Maybe down the road this would be a good option, but I kind of like the option of 3D printing the card from scratch, so the QR code bleeds halfway or all the way through the card, rather than just being printed on the surface. Is this possible for cheap? Maybe like &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.library.ucsf.edu/news/3d-print-the-ultimate-business-card/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; but not as fancy. Mainly (I'm new to all this) I am wondering what machine would accomplish this for low price yet good quality, and what other equipment I would need.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically, what printer is best for this type of task?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19796" LastEditorUserId="19796" LastEditDate="2020-01-16T06:01:26.993" LastActivityDate="2024-03-20T15:15:27.617" Title="How to 3D print an ID card" Tags="|diy-3d-printer|2d|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11783" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11782" CreationDate="2020-01-16T07:31:45.220" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;FDM printer?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;If you want to print one, maybe you should outsource it (let it print the tag on both sides), even the most affordable printers are in the \$100 - \$150 price range. If you want a printer and use it also to create ID tags, you could go for an FDM printer. Considering your request of having the tag inside (and through) the ID-card you need a dual filament option (one or two nozzle arrangement). If the tag can sit on top you can print it with a filament change with a single filament single nozzle printer. But, don't expect to get crystal clear prints (see experience printing signs below)!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Alternatives&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;As an alternative, you could print a blank PLA ID-card and laser mark the tag onto both sides, see e.g. &lt;a href=&quot;https://cdn.colorfabb.com/media/wysiwyg/colorfabb_video/moving%20banner%20lasermarking_1.webm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this video&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it is a small batch you can also consider printing/lasering stickers and stick these onto blank ID cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;From experience&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I've done some signs with black letters on a white background for &quot;on-lay&quot;, inlay and through arrangements using a more expensive (for home use) dual extruder 3D printer (Ultimaker 3 Extended about \$5000,-) with PETG, but the results were not very satisfying. Usually the black smears out on or in the white no matter tweaking the options. Considering the size of an ID-card, the amount of tag squares, this is even more likely to happen when you print at that small size (the signs I printed were sized similar to the &quot;A5&quot; paper standard). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From my experience I would say that a 3D printer may not be the best solution for your task.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2020-01-16T07:31:45.220" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11785" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11782" CreationDate="2020-01-16T09:28:57.550" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;One option to create the tag you require can be accomplished with a single extruder and a bit of manual intervention.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've performed the sequence of steps from a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1973570&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Thingiverse creation&lt;/a&gt; that resulted in a box lid for a gift card box. It's a single layer of multiple colors placed on the print bed, then consolidated with a backing layer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For your card objective, the single layer provides the contrast and you can determine easily how thick you wish the remaining portion to print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XhBlN.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XhBlN.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;snowman box lid&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The detail level is reasonably good, limited to the printer nozzle and specifications. A glass bed or similarly smooth surface bed will provide optimum results. As 0scar suggests, a 3D printer in the US$100-150 will likely suffice, but check reviews and forums for troublesome products of such a low price.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastActivityDate="2020-01-16T09:28:57.550" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11786" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-01-16T13:28:14.133" Score="1" ViewCount="2967" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently installed a &quot;Direct Extruder System&quot; on my Ender 3 using a 3D printed mount. For the first few minutes it worked fine, but after I looked at it once again, I saw that there's nothing anymore coming out of the nozzle so I directly stopped the print. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've seen that the filament has broken at the point where it gets into the extruder and the motor just extruded it into the air besides the inlet. Today I've taken apart the extruder, and I saw, that there's quite some filament stuck inside the inlet. So I heated the extruder up, tried to remove the PLA, but even on 230&amp;nbsp;°C it was hard. I don't know what to do now, and I don't really have the option to buy a new extruder now. Does anyone know what to do?&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/szMOx.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/szMOx.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/inRux.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/inRux.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19802" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-01-16T21:49:02.433" LastActivityDate="2020-01-16T21:49:02.433" Title="How to get stuck filament out of this direct drive extruder?" Tags="|extruder|creality-ender-3|hotend|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11787" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11826" CreationDate="2020-01-17T02:32:45.040" Score="1" ViewCount="6235" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been trying to print anything for the past few days. Every time I go to print something the printer stops pushing plastic out and usually the motor makes a knocking sound.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My original thought was that my E-steps were off (because they were) but I solved that and I still have a problem. Then I noticed that I was struggling with getting the PLA filament to feed into the nozzle. I assumed it was a clogged nozzle and possibly heat creep (because I was a dummy and used my old, bowden retraction settings on my new, direct extruder). I cleared out the clog and I'm able to feed plastic through after disengaging the idler arm. Though, I do struggle getting the filament into the nozzle. Maybe it's due to the Hemera's tight tolerances or due to a misalignment in the hot end, I'm not sure yet. Once I do get the plastic in, it quickly and easily pushes through and spits out of the nozzle so I think that my nozzle isn't clogged. I did do a cold pull the other day. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I've noticed that my extruder is making a knocking sound, as if someone was gently rapping on my chamber door. I also see that the gears move one step back and forth. It looks to me that the motor is stuck or frozen. I'm pretty sure that it's not skipping steps. The sound happens at varying heights and not just the first layer. The first time I noticed it, it was printing the cabin of Benchy. Z &gt; 1 mm when I finally decided to ask this question. The sound is kind of loud, but that's most likely the resonance in the machine than a symptom, stating it nonetheless. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;My setup:&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Printer:&lt;/strong&gt; Creality CR-10S &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Extruder:&lt;/strong&gt; E3D Hemera &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Nozzle temp:&lt;/strong&gt; 205-220&amp;nbsp;°C&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Retraction:&lt;/strong&gt; Initially 5&amp;nbsp;mm at 40&amp;nbsp;mm/s, then 0.3&amp;nbsp;mm, then most recently none &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Motor Vref:&lt;/strong&gt; just north of 800&amp;nbsp;mA. (I've read somewhere that the Hemera motor wants 800&amp;nbsp;to 1000&amp;nbsp;mA) &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm just not sure what could be wrong here. I feel like I checked all the steps and I'm just missing something. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13883" LastEditorUserId="13883" LastEditDate="2020-01-17T14:06:19.407" LastActivityDate="2021-03-11T23:05:31.680" Title="Extruder motor making a knocking sound, nozzle is not clogged" Tags="|troubleshooting|creality-cr-10|e3d-hemera|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11788" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11787" CreationDate="2020-01-17T08:55:15.203" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;A knocking or clicking sound does not imply you &lt;strong&gt;have a problem&lt;/strong&gt;, it implies that you &lt;strong&gt;could have a problem&lt;/strong&gt;; it can be the characteristic of the extruder. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;My own designed 2.85&amp;nbsp;mm filament, 1:4 speed reducing &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2897762&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;belt driven extruders&lt;/a&gt; make clicking sounds while extruding (independent of the layer height), I have verified that no steps are lost and the printer extrudes exactly the requested amount of filament (2.85&amp;nbsp;mm filament requires a lot more pressure for the same nozzle size, the noise is coming from inside of the metal Bulldog housing, not the stepper adjacent, it is not stepper nor filament skipping noise).&lt;/em&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A clicking sound in combination with gears losing position as you describe (or filament skipping back) does mean that the pressure in the nozzle is too big for the extruder to push it through. If the gears loose position, this means that the stepper is not powerful enough to push it through, this means that more current or a more powerful stepper is required (the latter option is due to the design of the extruder not possible). If the filament skips back while the gears are in place the tension/grip to the filament needs to be increased. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In troubleshooting this problem it is best to increase the current to the stepper close to the upper side of the specifications of the stepper and see if the knocking sounds disappear. This should not be a problem for such a priced and tested extruder system, i.e. considering the reputation and quality of E3D this extruder must work out of the box unless you have received damaged components.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-01-17T09:10:26.573" LastActivityDate="2020-01-17T09:10:26.573" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11789" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-01-17T10:31:37.793" Score="1" ViewCount="487" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just received a new SLA printer from AliExpress. There are scratches of different shapes on the bed, as seen on the photo. I am particularly worried about a set of scratches of about 0.2&amp;nbsp;mm depth seen at the top right, but there is also a lot of shallower scratches at the bottom right.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LfrQ6.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LfrQ6.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;SLA printer, scratched bed&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The seller says that it is not a problem and it results from &quot;testing&quot;. I am not sure. I have never used SLA printers but I have used an UV resin as a glue and I frequently scratched the glued objects to make the glue adhere much more strongly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do these scratches decrease the usability of the bed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19813" LastEditorUserId="19813" LastEditDate="2020-01-17T12:03:21.457" LastActivityDate="2020-01-17T12:03:21.457" Title="New 3D resin printer with a scratched bed - will it work well anyway?" Tags="|build-plate|sla|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11790" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8748" CreationDate="2020-01-17T15:13:41.180" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;One other possibility is that the printer is &quot;gap-filling&quot;. When there is a space between walls that isn't enough for infill or a roof layer, the slicer can be told to fill the gap, and depending on gap size it often does this with a zig-zaggy motion of the extruder. This is normal; if you wish, you can turn it off, however be aware this can cause those gaps to be visible in top surfaces of your prints.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19313" LastActivityDate="2020-01-17T15:13:41.180" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11791" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11761" CreationDate="2020-01-17T16:30:02.993" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;For sales figures of the smaller companies; it is very difficult because they don't publish (esp the Chinese brands). For the larger organizations there is &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Wholler's Report &lt;a href=&quot;https://wohlersassociates.com/2019report.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://wohlersassociates.com/2019report.htm&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An article on &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.forbes.com/sites/tjmccue/2018/06/04/wohlers-report-2018-3d-printer-industry-rises-21-percent-to-over-7-billion/#af651352d1a4&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Forbes&lt;/a&gt; gave a quote about the 2018 Wholers Report:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The 2018 report has the estimated number of desktop systems sold at nearly double the 2015 data (reported in the 2016 report). In just over two years, an astonishing &lt;strong&gt;528,952&lt;/strong&gt; desktop 3D printers (or systems) are believed to have been sold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For 24 Years (basically the start) they have been tracking the 3D printing industry, providing the most reliable source of market share and growth. It costs a bit to purchase and you can't share the contents with anyone else, but if you're really interested then; grab a copy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Further, there are the statistics of 3DHubs.com. They used to be a distributed 3d printing service (I guess they still are). They keep track of the most popular printers of all types:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.3dhubs.com/get/trends/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.3dhubs.com/get/trends/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12857" LastEditorUserId="12857" LastEditDate="2020-01-17T16:49:33.127" LastActivityDate="2020-01-17T16:49:33.127" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11792" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11754" CreationDate="2020-01-17T19:52:56.863" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some comments assume that this is a PLA print.  IS it PLA, or something more exotic?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If PLA, then try softening the object by heating the print with a heat gun or hair drier. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I assume that the bed is not easily removed and that you can not flex the bed.  If you can remove the bed by unscrewing it, it might flex enough to break away the print. It doesn't take a lot of flex to remove a part.  The smallest opening concentrates force on the edge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have had some success using a wood chisel &quot;upside down&quot;.  Don't try to get the edge under the part, but instead embed the pointy edge into the object and then use the angle behind the edge as a fulcrum to focus upward force on the object.  That might work better while the object is hot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2082" LastActivityDate="2020-01-17T19:52:56.863" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11793" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11794" CreationDate="2020-01-17T20:02:42.850" Score="3" ViewCount="680" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to print a part with thin walls. I've designed it with wall 1.2&amp;nbsp;mm thick, so that I should get three 0.4&amp;nbsp;mm lines. This works just fine for the straight lines, but for the radiused corners, Cura 4.3 insists on trying to print infill. This infill is only added where they are going at a tangent to the curve, so it alternates corners on alternate layers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/y5ztw.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/y5ztw.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Worse, it prints the segments entirely out of order, which adds lots of travel and hence print time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've tried setting the infill to 100&amp;nbsp;%, setting the wall thickness directly to 3 rather than the default 2. I've tried reducing the wall thickness by 0.2-0.3&amp;nbsp;mm. I've tried a few other things too - all to no avail.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some layers it gets right:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ylxFs.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ylxFs.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;So why can't it get them all right??&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I presume that this is probably caused by the fact that the curves are actually a series of straight segments, and so the centre gap between outer 0.4&amp;nbsp;mm walls will not be exactly 0.4&amp;nbsp;mm all the way round, but is there any way to just force Cura to print three lines all the way round? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, I know that this will print OK, but the corners will obviously look messier than they need to, and this is not the first time I've come across this problem. I'd like to get this fixed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have found a &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/8416/ultimaker-cura-3-6-choosing-to-fill-in-narrow-walls-with-diagonal-striping&quot;&gt;similar question&lt;/a&gt;, but it's for an older version of Cura, and the recommended solution of 100&amp;nbsp;% infill doesn't help. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16795" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-01-17T20:33:39.910" LastActivityDate="2020-01-17T20:40:23.170" Title="How to slice thin curved wall" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|slicing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11794" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11793" CreationDate="2020-01-17T20:40:23.170" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Even though each path, in theory, is concentric around the center point of the arc, the pathing does not always work out that way - especially around corners and radii. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While your 1.2mm walls &lt;em&gt;should&lt;/em&gt; always allow for three 0.4mm paths, if the slicer rounds down the overall thickness to 1.19mm, it will not detect enough room for three 0.4mm paths - but three 0.39mm paths should still fit, even if the slicer determines the thinnest part to be 1.17 mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4922" LastActivityDate="2020-01-17T20:40:23.170" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11796" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-01-18T03:36:37.910" Score="1" ViewCount="138" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SIF7O.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SIF7O.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Extruder_Knob&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;I'm fairly new to the amazing world of 3D printing, with an Ender3X.&#xA;Default model (the dog) worked very fine, but I'm experiencing some issues with some of the printer improvement parts I decided to print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems to narrow the print on the X axis; a printed circle for instance will always have the correct shape, except on both extremities on X, where it will be flattened, no matter the size.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I experienced it with the extruder knob: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3176144&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3176144&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;for which all dents were fine but the ones on the X axis sides. &#xA;Also experienced it on the filament's guide torus: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2917932/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2917932/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm having a hard time figuring out where I messed up; could it be related to a software mistake I would have made in Cura, a failed bed leveling or any other hardware issue like an over/under tightened X axis?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19823" LastEditorUserId="19823" LastEditDate="2020-01-18T14:48:39.433" LastActivityDate="2020-01-19T20:37:30.943" Title="Ender3 printing flattened on X axis" Tags="|print-quality|creality-ender-3|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11797" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-01-18T11:16:44.550" Score="2" ViewCount="612" Body="&lt;p&gt;I understand the purpose of printing with a skirt (or at least, I think I do): it gets the filament warmed up and flowing properly, in order to avoid extrusion problems while starting to print the first layer. (Perhaps it has other benefits as well? If so, I'd be interested to know what they are.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, what's not clear to me is why skirts are set up in exactly the way they are. In particular:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Why is the skirt drawn around the whole of the outside of the print, at a roughly constant distance from it, instead of (for example) just going round in a small circle in one corner of the print bed?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Why does a print with a larger first layer need a skirt that uses more material?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I ask partly out of curiosity, but also partly because I'm printing several small but awkwardly shaped parts, and using a skirt reduces the usable area of the build plate. If the skirt could just be put in one corner instead of going all the way around the edge I would be able to fit more parts on the build plate. This leads me to my final question:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In Cura, can I change the layout of the skirt, so that it gets drawn in a convenient part of the build platform, instead of going all the way around the edge of the print?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="612" LastActivityDate="2020-01-18T15:08:40.270" Title="Why are skirts designed the way they are?" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|slicing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11799" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11797" CreationDate="2020-01-18T15:08:40.270" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Skirt and Brim are &lt;em&gt;not only&lt;/em&gt; nozzle prime operations. While Brim is intended to help in adhesion by increasing the area, Skirt is a method to test some things about the bed and positioning:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If the bed is unlevel, you can see this in the skirt before the print starts. This demands to go around &lt;em&gt;all&lt;/em&gt; of the print.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If the bed is greasy, you'll see also before the actual print starts, as the extrusion does not stick well.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It provides a visual check if the slicing is positioned well on the printer. If you for example run printers of different dimensions, the skirt shows instantly, if you loaded G-code that is too large for the bed.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The effect to reduce airdraft to the first layer is sometimes brought up, but I don't think it is relevant. However, if one would pause between skirt and print, one could use the outline to put down glue or ABS-slurry for materials that need extra adhesion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The use of the material in a skirt is directly proportial to the width (1 or 2 lines) and the area included (as circumference is proportional to area).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;In Cura, can I change the layout of the skirt, so that it gets drawn in a convenient part of the build platform, instead of going all the way around the edge of the print?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No. Skirt is, by definition always around the whole set of parts. Just turn off Skirt and use an alternate priming, if you don't think you'll need it or find it cumbersome. Instructions for example priming operations can be found in &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6355/writing-g-code-swiping-at-start-of-print&quot;&gt;Writing G-code : swiping at start of print&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastActivityDate="2020-01-18T15:08:40.270" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11800" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11810" CreationDate="2020-01-18T15:59:48.430" Score="2" ViewCount="713" Body="&lt;p&gt;My Kossel Mini printer was working well. Recently I made some changes including replacing the nozzle and throat, adding a silicone heater cover. Now it has the problem of first layer adhesion. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CYVTs.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CYVTs.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8QZhA.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8QZhA.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The perimeter sticks well but the infill line swells upward in the middle, while start and end has no problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my experience the adhesion problem only occurs at corner but never in the middle. So I don't know what configuration needs to be changed to fix it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Delta calibration has been done before the print. PVP glue was used on the bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="162" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2020-01-19T18:23:41.697" LastActivityDate="2020-01-24T08:00:50.113" Title="FDM printer first layer infill swell upward" Tags="|adhesion|glass-bed|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11803" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11754" CreationDate="2020-01-18T20:31:06.033" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Try something simple first: spread 97+ isopropyl around the edges, and see if that will help loosen the bond.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19832" LastActivityDate="2020-01-18T20:31:06.033" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11804" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6443" CreationDate="2020-01-18T21:01:10.640" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;One thing or another limits (controls) the flow form the nozzle.  in ideal operating conditions, the molten/softened plastic is kept in a small pool in the nozzle, without high pressure, and responsive to pressure by flowing from the nozzle.  The plastic must be viscous and self-adhering enough that gravity and residual pressure on the melt will not be sufficient to draw the plastic out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the plastic is too stiff, such as through not being at a high enough temperature, as the filament is fed by the extruder the pressure will increase until the pressure is high enough to force plastic from the nozzzle.  The plastic that is being fed by the extruder elastically compresses to generate the pressure.  Hooke's law in action.  This causes a delay at the beginning of extrusion, and a continuation of extrusion at the end.  The elastic &quot;wind up&quot; of the filament gives us the delay.  A printer in this mode will appear to work pretty well.  It may require higher &quot;retraction&quot; lengths to unload the pressure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this is the operating mode, the filament outflow rate may be less than the rate at which filament is passing through the extruder.  Pressure continuallly increases until the extruder motor has insufficient torque, at which point it skips.  The pressure is not reduced very much by the skip, and plastic continues to flow, lowering the pressure until the extruder can again advance the filament.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It might be worth increasing the temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2082" LastActivityDate="2020-01-18T21:01:10.640" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11806" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11278" CreationDate="2020-01-19T01:23:27.067" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just placed a PEI 1 mm sheet directly on the aluminum build plate with the supplied 3M double sided tape and all is well so far. I paid a lot of attention to detail on preventing, or minimizing bubbles during the process which could impact even heating. I love the surface and ease of removal with the prints. I did not place anything between the aluminum plate and PEI material to minimize great transfer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19836" LastActivityDate="2020-01-19T01:23:27.067" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11808" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-01-19T15:38:51.323" Score="0" ViewCount="4087" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's been about a month since I've started using my Anycubic i3 Mega and everything has been going great. But today, I left it alone to print a 3DBenchy and it suddenly stopped mid-print. I didn't see it stop but once I came to the printer, the motors and the bed were at ambient temperature suggesting that it has stopped for quite a while. I was surprised that the Bed Temperature registered at over 200&amp;nbsp;ºC (although it wasn't at all hot) and tried to stop the print. However. I wasn't able to stop the print (It said stop failed) and I couldn't change the temperature, so I just switched the PSU off. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After leaving it for a few minutes, I turned the printer back on and the Bed Temperature still registered at absurd temperatures although it wasn't hot at all as seen on the Image Below.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EncSu.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EncSu.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Image 1&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I then tested the Hot End as the temperature seemed normal and it does seem to work and I was able to get some filament to be extruded out normally.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lpFEm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lpFEm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Image 2&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas on what happened here? It was working fine for an entire month and was working fine for the day, but mid-print it just suddenly broke. I've also &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZpE7Q.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;uploaded a GIF to Imgur&lt;/a&gt; to show how the bed temp fluctuates a lot. Any help would be appreciated :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19845" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2020-01-20T13:13:34.820" LastActivityDate="2020-01-20T13:13:34.820" Title="Anycubic i3 Mega incorrect Heated Bed temperature Reading" Tags="|heated-bed|troubleshooting|anycubic-i3-mega|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11809" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11811" CreationDate="2020-01-19T15:51:16.413" Score="1" ViewCount="5738" Body="&lt;p&gt;I got an Anycubic Predator last month, and after resolving a few mechanical problems, I was able to get it printing decently well. The only significant modification I've made so far is a set of 8-diode TL Smoothers, and I'm now mostly operating it via Octoprint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, during the last few prints, I've noticed the temperature dropping midway through the print. It warms up and cools down fine, but for some reason it's not able to sustain the temperature throughout the print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HoRn1.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HoRn1.png&quot; alt=&quot;temp graph&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;In this case, the print started out at the correct temperature (200&amp;nbsp;°C), held that temp for around 2 hours, then it dropped to a lower temp (174&amp;nbsp;°C). It eventually went back up to the target temp, then dropped again 5 minutes later. I tried manually adjusting it to see if that could fix it, but no luck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After this print completed, I restarted it to show how it is easily able to reach the target temp and hold it at the &lt;em&gt;start&lt;/em&gt; of the print:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cmQlC.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cmQlC.png&quot; alt=&quot;temp graph 2&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any tips on diagnosing and resolving this issue?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19846" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2020-02-01T11:54:17.360" LastActivityDate="2023-12-22T14:45:27.073" Title="Hotend doesn't maintain temperature" Tags="|troubleshooting|hotend|thermistor|anycubic-predator|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="12" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11810" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11800" CreationDate="2020-01-19T17:43:51.870" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Had tried below and didn't work:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Clean the bed&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use a brand new glue stick&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Verify delta configuration and make sure z-plane is flat and parallel to bed &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Adjust z height to minimize the distance between nozzle and bed when z=0&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Increase first layer extrude width&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Printed again and watched carefully, then found that it was pull up because the printed PLA slice shrank. I realized that the problem was related to my change on the fan duct. Before, the fan blowed directly to the tip of nozzle; after changed it blows around.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tried to turn off the fan on first layer, the problem was solved. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suspect that the fan duct change made the extruded material not cooling down immediately. It shrank when the air blew on it. I need further test to verify it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jLyeW.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jLyeW.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="162" LastEditorUserId="162" LastEditDate="2020-01-24T08:00:50.113" LastActivityDate="2020-01-24T08:00:50.113" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11811" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11809" CreationDate="2020-01-19T22:23:34.953" Score="5" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Safety First&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's look at the graphs. First: you should swap firmware for one that has &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/8466/what-is-thermal-runaway-protection&quot;&gt;Thermal Runaway&lt;/a&gt;, as, as it is, running about 15 minutes with 28 K less than the printer is ordered to work at is a clear indication that there is no Thermal runaway protection in place - it should have tripped over that long ago! But there is more!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Problem&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But this graph and the lack of Thermal Runaway Protection also are typical for printers that have a design flaw: If the airflow from the part cooling fans or the coldend-cooling fan (that's the fan that always runs) brushes over the heater block, it cools it. This limits the achievable temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Luckily, such is easily remedied in one of several ways:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Changing the airducts for ones that does not hit the heater block&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Adding a silicone sock around the heater block&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Kapton-tape and ceramic wool can be used to make a heater-sock too&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Adding an air-shield in the shape of a bit of tinfoil can redirect the airflow away from the heater block, but make positively sure it is mounted Fire-Safe and can't be lost into the print!&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:29:41.667" LastActivityDate="2020-01-20T06:24:41.923" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11812" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11599" CreationDate="2020-01-19T23:49:02.490" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had an issue with mine. I had a tiny hole that dripped some resin on the LCD screen. I scrapped it off as best I could but there were some serious printing problems on that side. I got a new LCD screen and replaced that and now print jobs that use to work are not printing solid blocks. &#xA;I have no luck trying to repair it, so I sent support a question on how to fix it and what is causing it.&#xA;I will update when I know more&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Update:  LCD screen was replaced upside down making the ribbon cable go in backwards. I swapped/flipped it over and it works fine now. So if you are having a solid block issue. Replace the lcd but also be cautious of what side goes up. They don’t show you in the videos. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19853" LastEditorUserId="19853" LastEditDate="2020-01-21T16:22:46.887" LastActivityDate="2020-01-21T16:22:46.887" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11813" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11808" CreationDate="2020-01-20T00:24:41.673" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The first value, which is in your pictures 179 and 184&amp;nbsp;°C, is the measured value. The 0&amp;nbsp;°C value is the set value. It looks like the temperature reading from the hotbed is not working correctly. So there are two possible issues:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The cable on the backside leading to the hotplate might be damaged. This seems to be a common issue with this printer. You could check if the cables show any obvious damage.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The hotbed thermistor is broken. On the leads on the backside you can measure with a multimeter the resistance between the green an blue cables. Typical readings are in the range of 100&amp;nbsp;k&amp;ohm;. If you touch the thermistor, usually it is placed in the mid area of the heatbed, the resistance should change.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19852" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-01-20T05:49:24.047" LastActivityDate="2020-01-20T05:49:24.047" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11814" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11741" CreationDate="2020-01-20T02:29:16.193" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Someone has already studied this: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&amp;amp;source=web&amp;amp;rct=j&amp;amp;url=http://radio.feld.cvut.cz/conf/poster/proceedings/Poster_2018/Section_PE/PE_043_Vesely.pdf&amp;amp;ved=2ahUKEwiInPybkJHnAhWQiOAKHUhHDk0QFjABegQIDxAK&amp;amp;usg=AOvVaw29WgLT3hfP1cPnHeiKtL7y&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;study of electrical properties of 3D printed materials&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;ABS: dielectric constant about 3.&#xA;PLA: 2.7-2.9.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2082" LastActivityDate="2020-01-20T02:29:16.193" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11815" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7745" CreationDate="2020-01-20T02:51:50.657" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The best solution would be to heat the bed, but not the nozzle at startup.   If you level with a cold bed, your ABL mesh is going to be off, since the aluminum heated bed plate expands considerably once the heat is applied. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could also issue a retract command before leveling, and then add a counteracting filament feed command after ABL is complete. I have no idea how that code would look though.   Just my 2 cents.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19856" LastActivityDate="2020-01-20T02:51:50.657" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11816" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11587" CreationDate="2020-01-20T07:25:13.120" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It was the stepper driver, Replacing the motherboard fixed the issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19489" LastActivityDate="2020-01-20T07:25:13.120" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11817" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-01-20T12:28:35.880" Score="0" ViewCount="211" Body="&lt;p&gt;Stepper motors are not working when connected to RAMPS board in the X,Y,Z pins.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I used A4988 drivers and the Arduino board is an original version. I checked the input voltage to the RAMPS board, it's 12&amp;nbsp;V. The bed and the stepper motors are working fine. I tried replacing the driver, checking with another RAMPS board, replacing the SMPS nothing has worked. I checked the input voltage of the arduino both the 5&amp;nbsp;V and 3.3&amp;nbsp;V pins are working fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18907" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-01-20T13:36:48.150" LastActivityDate="2020-10-27T07:01:55.317" Title="Stepper motors not working when connected to RAMPS 1.4" Tags="|diy-3d-printer|ramps-1.4|arduino-mega-2650|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11818" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2020-01-20T14:54:44.150" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;A low-cost 3D printer clone of the Prusa i3 using aluminium profiles (20 x 20 mm and 20 x 40 mm) with a heated bed. A Bowden style extruder is lifted on a portal style printer with dual Z-axis stepper motors. To date the series consists of the -10 (V2), the -10 MAX, the -10S, the -10S PRO (V2), the -10 S4, the -10 S5 and the -10 MINI.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-01-20T14:54:44.150" LastActivityDate="2020-01-20T14:54:44.150" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11819" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2020-01-20T14:54:44.150" Score="0" Body="For questions about the Creality CR-10 family of 3D printers" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-01-20T14:54:44.150" LastActivityDate="2020-01-20T14:54:44.150" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11824" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5579" CreationDate="2020-01-21T11:24:47.160" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Instead of replacing the bed, you could invest in a silicone heating element and top it off with a piece of (Borosilicate) glass.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3Vpnr.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3Vpnr.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the printer board has exposed headers to attach a heated bed, which is possible, but not certain, you could use an SSR (solid state relay) to power the bed using the signal from the board to set the temperature. Alternatively use a thermostat for an incubator to create the signal for the SSR. Note that all these parts can be sourced from those typical online websites.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In case the wires of the silicone heater stick out, use a layer of cork where you cut out space for the cables and thermistor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-01-21T12:09:05.280" LastActivityDate="2020-01-21T12:09:05.280" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11826" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11787" CreationDate="2020-01-21T15:17:30.003" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm still not sure what happened but here's what I did.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I ended up buying a replacement since I thought the motor was seized up somehow. (I had some other issues too that required a replacement anyway.) Removing the heat sink and gear assembly from the old motor was extremely difficult so I assume that the gears somehow didn't link up. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After switching out motors, I was able to print a cube mostly successful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13883" LastActivityDate="2020-01-21T15:17:30.003" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11827" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11836" CreationDate="2020-01-21T15:38:33.657" Score="1" ViewCount="3701" Body="&lt;p&gt;I tried printing a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2939079&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&quot;improved&quot; calibration cube&lt;/a&gt; and noticed that the printer was laying down dots instead of a solid line. This was right after switching out my extruder motor and tweaking retraction settings. I believe my first setting was 0.3&amp;nbsp;mm, then I tried 0.1&amp;nbsp;mm. I didn't get a picture of the first setting, but shown below is when retraction was set to 0.1&amp;nbsp;mm. I think the print was at layer 3 roughly. The difference is 0.1&amp;nbsp;mm had a higher frequency of dotting, ie more dots that were closer together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This was only present in the first couple of layers. The dots weren't occurring in the same spot so the picture shows dots overlapping each other making a sort of &quot;twisted&quot; or braided look. This also happened on both the x-axis movements and the right side of the y-axis movements. The rest of the cube came out relatively well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Settings&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Printer:&lt;/strong&gt; Creality CR-10S&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Temp:&lt;/strong&gt; 205&amp;nbsp;°C at nozzle; 60&amp;nbsp;°C on bed&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Retraction:&lt;/strong&gt; 0.3&amp;nbsp;mm initially, 0.1&amp;nbsp;mm (pictured)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Bed Distance:&lt;/strong&gt; ~0.1&amp;nbsp;mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Nozzle Diameter:&lt;/strong&gt; 0.4&amp;nbsp;mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Layer Height:&lt;/strong&gt; 0.2&amp;nbsp;mm. I usually do 0.4, but I was lazy with slicer presets (AstroPrint)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Hotend:&lt;/strong&gt; e3D Hemera direct, e3D v6 heater and nozzle&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Filament:&lt;/strong&gt; Hatchbox PLA white&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I never saw this issue before on my printer nor have I seen it mentioned in various articles/videos online.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/usdSs.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/usdSs.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Dotting when laying down initial layers&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13883" LastEditorUserId="13883" LastEditDate="2020-01-22T15:48:19.927" LastActivityDate="2020-01-23T10:01:20.157" Title="Odd dotting when printing a line" Tags="|troubleshooting|creality-cr-10|e3d-v6|e3d-hemera|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11828" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11835" CreationDate="2020-01-21T15:42:18.760" Score="3" ViewCount="640" Body="&lt;p&gt;I discovered &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.reprap.me/diamond-fullcolor-nozzle.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&quot;diamond&quot;&lt;/a&gt; nozzles (name of the design, not the use of diamond material), which have multiple filament inputs (designs for 3 or 5) and a single output nozzle, see figure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LZIXQ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LZIXQ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Diamond nozzle, 3-in 1-out&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They look like a very good and compact solution to avoid or significantly reduce purge towers, where filament is wasted until the channel is primed, and to avoid a second hot end, which takes space and which could be oozing when unused, but I could find them only made of brass.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there hardened diamond nozzles, or equivalent systems which are lightweight and can avoid a second hot end, to print composite or abrasive materials?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2338" LastEditorUserId="2338" LastEditDate="2020-01-23T15:28:26.407" LastActivityDate="2020-01-23T15:28:26.407" Title="Are there multi-filament hardened nozzles or equivalent systems?" Tags="|hotend|nozzle|multi-material|diamond-hotend|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11829" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11831" CreationDate="2020-01-21T17:27:01.070" Score="1" ViewCount="1377" Body="&lt;p&gt;Which type of filament material(s) is safe to use as an in-wall box for regular, 120v wiring? For instance, an electrical outlet box.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In case it matters, location is the state of Washington, USA.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="98" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2022-02-18T09:50:41.807" LastActivityDate="2022-02-23T20:46:30.330" Title="What filament material is safe to use as in-wall housing (US)?" Tags="|print-material|safety|legal|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11830" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11829" CreationDate="2020-01-21T20:34:56.053" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I haven't tested the commercial &quot;blue boxes&quot; used to hold 120/240&amp;nbsp;V electrical outlets, switches, and splices to see how they behave when heated.  As such, this argument is based on intuition, which is intrinsically flawed as a logic device.  Never-the-less, I think the no extruded molten plastic (FFF) 3D printing filament will work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The purpose of the junction box is to contain an overheating connection or switch and prevent it from causing a fire in the wall.  Any FFF filament will have a melting point below the ignition point of wood, and would therefore flow away from the overheating point.  It seems that any thermoplastic with a &quot;normal&quot; melting point would have this problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might look at UV polymerized printing resins, such as are used in the Stratasys Objet, Form Labs, and Prusa SL1.  These printing processes aren't constrained to use plastics that can be melted or heat softened.  Because the polymerization can involve more aggressive crosslinking (polymerization) that FFF materials, they have the potential to be good for a higher temperature.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As an example of a high-temperature, non-melting plastic which could perhaps have an analogue in SLS resin, polyester &quot;casting compound&quot; is cross linked by a methyl-ethyl-ketone-peroxide catalyst to form clear solid.  24 hours after the polymerization starts, the solid does not melt under the influence of a hot air gun.  I tried to melt it and it would not melt.  It slightly softened, but the plastic cup I had cast it in was dripping away -- but the polyester was not melting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I looked through the Stratasys materials and Form Labs materials and did not see a much higher temperature material.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2082" LastActivityDate="2020-01-21T20:34:56.053" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11831" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11829" CreationDate="2020-01-21T20:36:14.920" Score="4" Body="&lt;h1&gt;Safety is not the same as legality&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Something might be perfectly safe, but it doesn't make it legal to do or allowed to use. Parking your car over double-yellow lines is one example that is perfectly safe but violates the traffic codes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any 3D printed box would violate for example &lt;a href=&quot;https://app.leg.wa.gov/wac/default.aspx?cite=296-46B-300&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;WAC 296-46B-300&lt;/a&gt;, as it isn't in compliance with NEC Class 3 Standard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(1) Cables and raceways for power limited, NEC Class 2 and Class 3 conductors must be installed in compliance with Chapter 3 NEC unless other methods are specifically required elsewhere in the NEC, chapter 19.28 RCW, or this chapter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The NEC is also known as NFPA 70, and availeable at the Website of the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.nfpa.org/codes-and-standards/all-codes-and-standards/list-of-codes-and-standards?mode=code&amp;amp;code=70&amp;amp;tab=editions&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;National Fire Protection Agency&lt;/a&gt;. You will need to look in Article 725.3 for the exact, current specifications that a cable box would need to follow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;725.3 Other Articles.&lt;/strong&gt; Circuits and equipment shall comply with the articles or sections listed in 725.3(A) through (N). Only those sections of Article 300 referenced in this article shall apply to Class 1, Class 2, and Class 3 circuits.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Also&lt;/em&gt; note, that mains wire work is usually regulated in how it has to be done and you might (in some areas) not even be allowed to do it yourself! Even if you may do it, it might be inadvisable to do so due to insurance reasons: non-professional wiring or non-standard parts can be usually excluded from coverage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2022-02-23T20:46:30.330" LastActivityDate="2022-02-23T20:46:30.330" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11832" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-01-21T21:52:45.223" Score="1" ViewCount="671" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have some trouble with my small I2S OLED SSD1306. When enabled in Marlin 2.0.1 it shows up great &lt;em&gt;buuuut&lt;/em&gt; with a bottom line saying TMC CONNECTION ERROR. &lt;code&gt;M122&lt;/code&gt;  in pronterface shows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Driver registers:&#xA;        X   0xC0:0C:00:00&#xA;        Y   0xC0:0C:00:00&#xA;        Z   0xC0:0C:00:00&#xA;        E   0x00:00:00:00    Bad response!&#xA;Testing X connection... OK&#xA;Testing Y connection... OK&#xA;Testing Z connection... OK&#xA;Testing E connection... Error: All LOW&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Disabling ssd1306 in &lt;strong&gt;configuration.h&lt;/strong&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;//#define U8GLIB_SSD1306&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and everything works fine.&#xA;I'm using TMC2209 for all 4 stepper on a RAMPS 1.6PLUS with a Re-Arm clone on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19883" LastActivityDate="2020-01-21T21:52:45.223" Title="TMC connection error; SSD1306" Tags="|marlin|ramps-1.6|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11835" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11828" CreationDate="2020-01-22T08:38:48.427" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, but there is no hardened version of the &quot;Diamond&quot; nozzle design. Basically when you want to use a hardened nozzle, or a Ruby nozzle in combination with color mixing (I specifically refer to mixing solutions as the melting chamber is smaller than filament changing solutions and your request for none or minimal purging towers) you need to order a design that accommodates the replacement of the nozzle. In such a case you can remove the standard nozzle to replace it for a hardened version.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a few 2 and 3 filament input designs that are offered on typical auction and Chinese selling sites. Below is an example for the Zonestar M3 mixing color hotend with a replaceable nozzle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eZTMg.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eZTMg.png&quot; alt=&quot;Zonestar M3 mixing color hotend side view&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bQ83E.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bQ83E.png&quot; alt=&quot;Zonestar M3 mixing color hotend front view&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-01-22T08:45:42.053" LastActivityDate="2020-01-22T08:45:42.053" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11836" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11827" CreationDate="2020-01-22T14:57:05.737" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have seen this a lot of times on my tronXY-X1 with an e3d-v6 via Bowden tube. It is &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; related to retraction but a different settin: Your first layer is set too thin or not leveled to the right height. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having the first layer too thin, means that with a tiny error, the calculated correct extrusion becomes either a massive overextrusion or a barely sticking underextrusion. For example, the repeatability of the probing is the biggest error source. A well calibrated probing might varry about 0.05 mm between extremes, so would be written as (layer thickness)+-0.025 mm. On a 0.1 mm layer, that is a 25 % over- or underextrusion; overextrusion of that degree is well known to create such ripples.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Setting it to 0.2 mm for the first layer in Cura, Slic3r and PrusaSlic3r (look in your advanced settings!) did eliminate such rippling for me. My understanding is, that the extra distance gives the filament better ability to flow and stick on this first layer. Also, remember to set your line width to ca. 10 % wider than the nozzle - 0.45 mm is my typical setting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2020-01-23T10:01:20.157" LastActivityDate="2020-01-23T10:01:20.157" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11837" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11827" CreationDate="2020-01-22T16:33:16.293" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's not about printing settings but only about the bed: the bed is too close to the nozzle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maybe you adjusted it when it was cold, instead of doing it when it's already heated to the desired temperature and the nozzle is heated at about 180°C to get close to operating temperature without oozing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or maybe you used a too thin paper sheet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2338" LastActivityDate="2020-01-22T16:33:16.293" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11838" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11239" CreationDate="2020-01-22T16:40:15.363" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You had a faulty BLTouch. Mine experienced the &lt;strong&gt;EXACT&lt;/strong&gt; same behavior and replacing it with a new BLTouch fixed the issue entirely (everything else I kept exactly the same, firmware etc), I simply swapped over the probe + cable with the new one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When connecting the new BLTouch, make sure you wire the servos connector correctly. In my case with an SKR Mini E3 v1.2 I needed to switch the red wire with the blue wire. If you start the printer with the wires the wrong way around, it may cause damage. I suspect that is what happened to my original one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19871" LastActivityDate="2020-01-22T16:40:15.363" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11839" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-01-22T18:59:11.707" Score="1" ViewCount="3328" Body="&lt;p&gt;I got a new CR-10S 3D printer (I received it at Christmas). It has been printing just fine until yesterday, I was doing a print and it randomly paused, it did not restart on its own, I had to restart the print, then the item finished just fine.  I am printing today, a very small item, the printer now stopped 3 times.  How can I fix this, or do I need to return it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19899" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-01-22T21:02:19.057" LastActivityDate="2020-01-31T09:29:12.700" Title="print pausing during printing" Tags="|troubleshooting|creality-cr-10|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11840" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5697" CreationDate="2020-01-23T01:47:26.997" Score="2" Body="&lt;h2&gt;A Scriptable Process for Generating Multi-Material STL Files:&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am now using interactive CAD software to define the more complex features of the object I am printing (in the current case, clock faces), and then using OpenSCAD to do the boolean volume operations.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To print the composite object, I need three STL files, one for each material I am using.  The three parts are the clock body, the translucent optics to conduct the LED lights, and the clock numbers.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I need:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;one STL for the body minus the LED optics and minus the numbers.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;one STL for the numbers minus the LED optics, and&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;one STL for the LED optics.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The CAD package supports the operations, but every time I change anything, I have to jump through several hoops to combine the three parts, manually and recreate the three objects.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had used OpenSCAD to make the optics and the numbers, and they were never in the same coordinate system as the clock body from the interactive CAD package.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, I scripted it and used OpenSCAD to read the clock body STL and being it into OpenScad.  I transformed it into the common coordinate system.  I then did, one by one, based on a command-line parameter, the boolean operations, rendered the result, and exported the resulting STL file.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I read the three files into PrusaSlicer, the lined up perfectly and everything worked simply, without and precision hand-eye coordination, and with no drama.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Scripts and command lines work for repeatability far better than squint, drag, and guess.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2082" LastActivityDate="2020-01-23T01:47:26.997" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11841" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-01-23T04:35:56.387" Score="2" ViewCount="1254" Body="&lt;p&gt;edit:&#xA;custom printer with 2 hitends (generic ptfe lined and genuine e3d v6 all metal). verified same temperature. e3d v6 oozes to the point that its unusable, generic works well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;steps taken &#xA;verified temps are identical with external probe&#xA;changed nozzles&#xA;rebuilt by to ensure no gaps &#xA;checked v6 hearsink cooling&#xA;changed retractions. settings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;original:&#xA;I've got a custom dual extruder machine - I've calibrated the temperatures of both hotends so I know the temperatures are very accurate. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One is a regular hotend similar to an Ender 3 setup and the other is a genuine E3D v6 - and I've checked the assembly many times. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At 190&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C, my external mp probe reads 190&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C on both. with PLA at 190&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C in the Ender 3 style hotend, pushing filament through by hand is smooth but requires some push and the oozing stops very soon after. on the E3D hotend, no effort is required and it will continue to ooze filament for quite a while. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've checked and double checked the temperature, changed nozzles, checked and double checked assembly and Bowden tube seating position and I'm at a loss as to how to get this E3D v6 to stop oozing because it seems to just drip  even at low temperatures, retractions do nothing and the prints with that extruder are messy. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any advice on how to get this thing to stop oozing would be greatly appreciated!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19164" LastEditorUserId="19164" LastEditDate="2020-01-24T16:12:21.320" LastActivityDate="2020-01-24T16:12:21.320" Title="E3D v6 oozing / dripping" Tags="|extruder|e3d-v6|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11842" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-01-23T05:46:46.593" Score="2" ViewCount="226" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a project that has lots of parts to print. I want to pack as many as possible onto the build plate. Does anyone know of software that can do intelligent packing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10422" LastActivityDate="2020-01-23T05:46:46.593" Title="How to efficiently pack a build plate?" Tags="|software|efficiency|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11843" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11852" CreationDate="2020-01-23T19:37:23.463" Score="5" ViewCount="37052" Body="&lt;p&gt;I could have sworn I read somewhere that when printing with TPU to make sure the part cooling fan is blowing. But I just did a quick Googling and couldn't find anything stating such on Matter Hackers or All3dp.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I currently don't have a part cooling fan attached (waiting for square nuts to come in). I've been able to get by printing PLA without the fan. I'm curious if this is going to be a major obstacle with TPU.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13883" LastActivityDate="2020-01-29T09:35:14.923" Title="Part cooling fan on when printing TPU?" Tags="|cooling|flexible|tpu|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11844" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14729" CreationDate="2020-01-24T10:20:39.367" Score="2" ViewCount="402" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an Anet A6, an SN04 sensor for the Z-axis, and Marlin 1.1.x software that has automatic bed leveling enabled.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is (looking at the image below): &amp;quot;It seems my bed leveling is not working correctly. What can I do to improve it?&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/84jTC.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/84jTC.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can see several things below:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I tried to use glue to make the first layer adhere better.. works only for small prints;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the middle part of the print is being done quite okay;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the outer part are either too low or too high.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I used the following procedure to get my leveling &amp;quot;right&amp;quot;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First I set the z-offset with the &lt;code&gt;M851&lt;/code&gt; command, followed by &lt;code&gt;M500&lt;/code&gt;. Then I performed the bed leveling with &lt;code&gt;G29 T&lt;/code&gt;, followed by &lt;code&gt;M500&lt;/code&gt;. Then I started my print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maybe I need more grid points for my bed leveling, even though I have this interpolation method on. Or do I need to check the implementation of the bed leveling, maybe something is just plain wrong in the software.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is your recommendation?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Current bed level status (&lt;code&gt;M420 V&lt;/code&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&#xA;Send: M420 V  &#xA;Recv: Bilinear Leveling Grid:  &#xA;Recv: &amp;emsp;&amp;emsp;&amp;emsp;  0  &amp;emsp; &amp;emsp; 1 &amp;emsp; &amp;emsp;  2 &amp;emsp; &amp;emsp;  3 &amp;emsp;  &amp;emsp; 4 &amp;emsp; &amp;emsp;  5  &#xA;Recv:  0 +0.709 +0.609 +0.519 +0.456 +0.448 +0.404  &#xA;Recv:  1 +0.525 +0.440 +0.370 +0.325 +0.304 +0.298  &#xA;Recv:  2 +0.368 +0.282 +0.222 +0.177 +0.189 +0.182  &#xA;Recv:  3 +0.221 +0.152 +0.100 +0.055 +0.069 +0.082  &#xA;Recv:  4 +0.086 +0.020 -0.028 -0.060 -0.050 -0.020  &#xA;Recv:  5 -0.027 -0.093 -0.138 -0.187 -0.163 -0.146  &#xA;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14805" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-11-04T17:22:19.323" LastActivityDate="2020-12-28T21:34:19.717" Title="Anet A6, Marlin 1.1.x, bed leveling with sensor probe" Tags="|marlin|bed-leveling|anet-a6|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11845" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-01-24T12:16:43.663" Score="2" ViewCount="7460" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just bought new eSUN PETg filament. When I started to extrude it, I heard popping sound same as moisture boiling out of it. I don't expect new eSUN vaccum sealed filament having moisture content. Is there any problem with my e3d v6? Is it possible that due to old filament, moisture is residing inside my extruder assembly and new filament is carrying it while extruding? &#xA;My settings : &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;print temperature: 250&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C, &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;bed temperature: 80&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C, &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;retraction length: 6.5&amp;nbsp;mm, &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;retraction speed: 25&amp;nbsp;mm/s, &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;print speed: 10&amp;nbsp;mm/s, &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;layer height: 25 micron&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What do I do in this case? Should I clean the extruder assembly? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19906" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-01-24T12:33:46.230" LastActivityDate="2021-06-25T03:32:55.740" Title="New PETG spool from eSUN is making popping sound while extruding" Tags="|extrusion|petg|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11846" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-01-24T14:14:47.640" Score="1" ViewCount="2987" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an AnyCubic Chiron, and sometimes the bed doesn't move correctly.  This causes the prints to shift and ruins the print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've spent a lot of time watching it, and noticed that when this happens, the belt stops moving for a short period of time, and then a &quot;thunk&quot; and it continues printing, with the slight from when the bed wasn't moving.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've captured a video that demonstrates this.  You can see it get stuck about 22 seconds into the video.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/RRbWzEEcsCU?start=0&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's a new machine, and printed fine for the first 5 or so prints, and then this problem started happening.  Now almost every print fails.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Things I've checked:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Belt tension seems fine.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Belt is not slipping.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The bed moves smoothly back and forth, no binding, nothing in the way.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When it's failing, it doesn't seem to be because the head is stuck on the print.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The screws attaching the pulley to the shaft are tight.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The same G-code file that used to print successfully now fails, and not in the same spot every time. Doesn't seem to be related to what I'm printing.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure where to go from here.  Is this a bad stepper?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lqE89.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lqE89.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Typical failed print&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19907" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-01-24T14:42:35.193" LastActivityDate="2020-02-03T22:11:21.130" Title="AnyCubic Chiron shifting in Y axis" Tags="|troubleshooting|anycubic-chiron|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11847" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-01-24T19:32:05.103" Score="1" ViewCount="166" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a XYZ Da Vinci duo and I want to run water soluble PLA with ABS How can I do that?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19910" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-01-24T22:53:12.423" LastActivityDate="2020-02-23T23:02:00.283" Title="Why can't I use PLA with ABS in a dual extruding 3D printer?" Tags="|pla|abs|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11848" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11847" CreationDate="2020-01-24T19:45:12.167" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;First of all: PLA is not water soluable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second: You want the melting points of the plastics to be as close as possible. PLA is printed between 180 and 200 °C. ABS is printed at 220 to 240 °C.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PVA on the other hand is water soluable and is printed in the same temperature range as ABS.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The setup is dependant on your slicer: you need to select one extruder as being the support structure one, the other as the main body one. Then you assign the filaments to them. Without knowing your slicer, I can't asnwer this better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastActivityDate="2020-01-24T19:45:12.167" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11849" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7683" CreationDate="2020-01-24T20:45:17.390" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had a lot of thumps lately after I moved my printer location.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Turns out my printer wasn't level and the extruder was pushing harder (further down) on different places, causing thumps.&#xA;This really shows because the calibration is only in 1 spot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I used some printer paper and a bubble level then recalibrated.&#xA;Not a single thump since.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19911" LastActivityDate="2020-01-24T20:45:17.390" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11850" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12092" CreationDate="2020-01-24T21:16:54.593" Score="2" ViewCount="149" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am an absolute beginner having issues with my Monoprice Maker select v2 printer. &#xA;The left half of my prints look fine but the right half always gets messed up. When I watch it print the right half of an object it seems that the PLA isn't sticking even though I level the bed thoroughly beforehand. I don't think the problem is that the right half of my board is not sticky enough, because when I move the print so that the whole thing prints on the left half of the bed the problem persists.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have attatched a photo to show what I am talking about. Any help is appreciated&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: I'm using inland pla. The extruder is at 220° and the bed temp is 60°&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PpBtK.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PpBtK.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19912" LastEditorUserId="19912" LastEditDate="2020-01-25T23:06:35.337" LastActivityDate="2020-02-27T16:54:18.597" Title="My printer is making mistakes on the right half of the print, but not the left" Tags="|troubleshooting|monoprice-maker-select|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11851" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11862" CreationDate="2020-01-24T22:20:01.610" Score="2" ViewCount="1340" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Configuration&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Printrun/Pronterface &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Slic3r 1.3.0&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Windows 10&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Arduino Mega + RAMPS 1.4 &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Marlin 1.1.9&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Prusa i3 -- Hephestos BQ with following modifications:&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;450W PSU (230V to 12V)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;heatbed&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;3D touch&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;led stripe&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;ps_on with relay on the PSU&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Issue conditions&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was printing fine until something happened, do not know what.&#xA;What I can tell is I can reach any bed temperature with Pronterface, and for any duration. (my little 450&amp;nbsp;W PSU provides enough power for my needs, like 60, 70 or 80 °C, a bit hard for 85 °C though)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But as soon as start the print (when the temperature is already ready extruder and bed -- and as I always did), the motors move the extruder in the bed center and then I get the following error :&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Error:Heating failed, system stopped! Heater_ID: 0&#xA;[ERROR] Error:Heating failed, system stopped! Heater_ID: 0&#xA;&#xA;Error:Printer halted. kill() called!&#xA;[ERROR] Error:Printer halted. kill() called!&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I check the temperature with &lt;code&gt;M105 ; temp report&lt;/code&gt;, the printer gives me:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;before I press the &quot;start print&quot; button &gt;&gt; &lt;code&gt;T:245/245 , B:80/80&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;after I press the &quot;start print&quot; button &gt;&gt; &lt;code&gt;T:245/245, B:80/0&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;so bed temp command is fine.....until I start the print&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Temp command set to 0&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What causes the printer to be halted is a huge temp difference between command and sensor.&#xA;In the provided &lt;a href=&quot;https://raw.githubusercontent.com/guidugast/Share/3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11851/low_temp_test.gcode&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;G-code&lt;/a&gt;, the bed temp was lowered to 30 °C, which helps :&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;running the test faster&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;this shows that the problem is still going on (bed temp command to 0 °C)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I can &quot;print&quot; (move the nozzle without error but the PETG won't stick to the bed) and I don't get temp error.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See the full log &lt;a href=&quot;https://raw.githubusercontent.com/guidugast/Share/3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11851/low_temp_test.log&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;So, what does cause the bed temp command to get to 0?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Not from G-CODE&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I checked in the G-code, and there is no &lt;code&gt;M140 *0&lt;/code&gt; nor &lt;code&gt;M190 *0&lt;/code&gt; until the end of the G-code, and I'm sure the problem is not comming from the slice/G-code because I ran some previously successfully run G-code/config and they fail the same.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Not COM related&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I ran the same gcode on sd card (to see if the USB was involved), but the behavior is the same: as soon as the bed temp is reached and print started, the bed temp command is set to 0 (I can see command on LCD screen).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Hardware related?&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did not change the firmware, and print were going fine, before the printer was doing this, so I guess the root cause is Hardware.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Firmware involved&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because of the &quot;0 °C command&quot;, the firmware react to something but I could not understand what is happening here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;when checking the firmware code, the only reasons why bed temp is set to 0 when print is running without asking for it would be &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;code&gt;gcode_M140()&lt;/code&gt;/&lt;code&gt;gcode_M190()&lt;/code&gt;: it could be bad interpretation of ascii command.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;code&gt;_lcd_preheat()&lt;/code&gt; ?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;code&gt;PID_autotune()&lt;/code&gt; : PID algo error?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;code&gt;ABORT_ON_ENDSTOP_HIT_FEATURE_ENABLED&lt;/code&gt; : maybe but it would also put the extruder temp command to 0&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;nothing that would really explain this...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any hints?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19359" LastEditorUserId="19359" LastEditDate="2020-01-26T20:26:10.280" LastActivityDate="2020-01-26T21:44:26.463" Title="Bed temperature command going to 0 °C with no obvious reason when print is started" Tags="|marlin|heated-bed|troubleshooting|firmware|hardware|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11852" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11843" CreationDate="2020-01-25T05:08:21.747" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You'll probably be fine printing TPU with no fan. I just started printing with TPU, and did a lot of test prints to find out what settings work. Fan made little difference. With hotend at 230 °C, which I started out with, 0-20% fan was fine. I eventually increased temperature to 250 °C, which made extrusion more consistent and allowed me to reduce linear advance K-factor somewhat, and at that temperature having a bit more fan (I'm using 40% now) seems to help the material hold its shape, but it mainly made a difference at higher print speeds (over 35 mm/s) where the motion of the nozzle was &quot;pulling on&quot; the still-very-soft material just extruded. At 30 mm/s and below, fan still doesn't seem very important.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All of this is likely to vary somewhat with the properties of your machine. However I think it's safe to say you should be able to find a combination of print speed and temperature that make it possible to get by with no fan.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Follow-up:&lt;/strong&gt; Upon further experimentation with TPU, I would say you really &lt;strong&gt;don't want any fan at all&lt;/strong&gt;, except possibly for bridges. I've found significant distortion to shape just from air pressure from the fan, and at higher speeds the fan makes the print brittle just like what happens with PETG. Layers of TPU really seem to want time to melt together to bond, and without a fan blowing on them they don't seem to lose their shape during that time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastEditorUserId="11157" LastEditDate="2020-01-28T22:54:44.400" LastActivityDate="2020-01-28T22:54:44.400" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11853" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-01-25T21:29:43.127" Score="4" ViewCount="1810" Body="&lt;p&gt;My school started a robotics club this year and one of the teachers gave us an Ender 3 printer to use, they assembled it the year before but never actually used it so it was sitting in their garage, I attempted to print several different objects but all of the larger ones seem to suffer from layer shifting on what seems like the Y axis. I've looked at other threads and tried stuff such as changing the binder clips (add adding more), leveling the bed (again), tightening the belts, moving the print position to a corner, using a different slicer, and reslicing the models which all fail, when I print smaller objects, it prints fine. What could the problem be and what can I do to resolve this? I'm using Cura 4.4 currently.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Failed print:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HzMij.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HzMij.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;failed print&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What it should look like:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9Ijpv.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9Ijpv.png&quot; alt=&quot;cad image&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Successful print (smaller object):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/praIM.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/praIM.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;successful print&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: I'm also using OctoPrint on a Raspberry Pi for remote control but the issue still occurs when printing from an SD card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19920" LastEditorUserId="19920" LastEditDate="2020-01-26T01:08:11.847" LastActivityDate="2020-07-07T12:08:32.670" Title="Ender 3 Y Layer Shifting" Tags="|creality-ender-3|troubleshooting|layer-shifting|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11854" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-01-26T01:13:43.257" Score="1" ViewCount="8135" Body="&lt;p&gt;Looking for something to smooth out a PLA print. Would Mod Podge be a good solution? Will it stick? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10422" LastActivityDate="2020-01-26T16:58:48.970" Title="Will Mod Podge work with PLA prints?" Tags="|post-processing|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11855" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11854" CreationDate="2020-01-26T02:04:42.970" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;From what I've read about Mod Podge, it is an adhesive with a vinyl acetate base. As such it is similar to both PVA (used for wash-away support) and ordinary white glue. One of the more common references to the product refers to it not being water proof, although the outdoor version of the product presents as being water-resistant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As part of the research for this answer, I found references to overly-thick coats becoming milky. This follows a reference to applying thin multiple coats and allowing proper cure time between coats. That proper cure time is listed as 28 days. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another set of posts suggest to cure the MP more rapidly than 28 days, one can heat the item in an oven to 175°F (80°C) which should not cause the PLA to melt, but may allow for sagging of unsupported parts. Testing is recommended.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;MP is an adhesive, is known to stick to non-porous surfaces and would be no more harmful than glue stick for a PLA (or ABS) model.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Durability is uncertain. If you intend to paint the item after sealing/smoothing, you'll gain durability and water resistance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastActivityDate="2020-01-26T02:04:42.970" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11856" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11854" CreationDate="2020-01-26T16:52:28.387" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have used Ponal Express, a woodglue, as a smoothing layer inbetween a somewhat sanded PLA and an acrylic paint. It had a good result to get it almost perfectly smooth. It stuck quite well, no problem with it getting off under painting. DO note though, that sanding the glue layer can tear of larger pieces of the film, so do only apply the glue as the last layer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, ModPodge is pretty much made from PVA or wood glue. The same thing I used, pretty much. So yes, it will work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2020-01-26T16:58:48.970" LastActivityDate="2020-01-26T16:58:48.970" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11857" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11880" CreationDate="2020-01-26T18:51:09.153" Score="1" ViewCount="2927" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm printing flat objects (like rectangular) with PLA on a glass bed and 70 celcius degrees (also tried 75 celcius too, 65 celcius and lower ends with adhesion problem in general). Also I use brims too. Most of the time, after a while it shrinks and warps (when print continues).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Room temperature is steady, there is no airflow to cool down things..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried to slow down to 20mm/sec. I tried to increase heat for first layer... Nothing helps. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am suspicious about moisture of the filaments. Can it be related?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16714" LastEditorUserId="16714" LastEditDate="2020-01-26T18:59:49.607" LastActivityDate="2020-01-28T00:48:16.157" Title="Does moisture cause warping?" Tags="|pla|creality-ender-3|warping|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11858" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-01-26T19:17:06.030" Score="1" ViewCount="299" Body="&lt;p&gt;While trying to figure out if I should start 3D printing with FDM (Creality Ender 3) or with SLA (Elegoo Mars), I got hooked on the bonus feature of attaching a laser upgrade on the 3d printer to make paper cutouts and cards. I read that its quite easy for the Ender 3 and dozens of other FDM printer, but I could not find anything about adding a laser to resin printers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Question: Is it possible at all to attach a laser engraving module to a SLA 3D Printer like it can be done to FDM?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additional information about pro/cons regarding this topic would be nice and are truly welcome.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19928" LastActivityDate="2020-02-10T15:38:53.723" Title="Is it possible to attach a laser engraver to a SLA / resin 3D printer?" Tags="|sla|laser|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11859" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11867" CreationDate="2020-01-26T19:17:13.773" Score="1" ViewCount="1315" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is my first time asking for some help on here and I have Googled, but only found a few reference to this issue. I know I am doing something dumb but I have no clue what it is. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I get an unknown motherboard error every time I try to setup my MKS GEN L. At first I found that in the &lt;code&gt;boards.h&lt;/code&gt; file there was no reference to this board and the &lt;code&gt;pins.h&lt;/code&gt; file was not there either. I have added both of these in and still nothing. I have checked the &lt;code&gt;configuration.h&lt;/code&gt; and as far as I can tell I cannot find the error. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have tried this in 1.1.9 and 2.x of marlin and get the same error.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The message is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&#xA;    Arduino: 1.8.9 (Windows 10), Board: &quot;Arduino Mega or Mega 2560, ATmega2560 (Mega 2560)&quot;&#xA;&#xA;In file included from sketch\MarlinConfig.h:33:0,&#xA;&#xA;                 from C:\Users\name\OneDrive\Desktop\Ender 5 1.1.61 version (1)\Ender 5 1.1.61 version\Marlin\Marlin.ino:31:&#xA;&#xA;pins.h:235:4: error: #error &quot;Unknown MOTHERBOARD value set in Configuration.h&quot;&#xA;&#xA;   #error &quot;Unknown MOTHERBOARD value set in Configuration.h&quot;&#xA;&#xA;    ^~~~~&#xA;&#xA;In file included from sketch\MarlinConfig.h:39:0,&#xA;&#xA;                 from C:\Users\jcgra\OneDrive\Desktop\Ender 5 1.1.61 version (1)\Ender 5 1.1.61 version\Marlin\Marlin.ino:31:&#xA;&#xA;SanityCheck.h:311:6: error: #error &quot;BABYSTEP_ZPROBE_OFFSET requires a probe.&quot;&#xA;&#xA;     #error &quot;BABYSTEP_ZPROBE_OFFSET requires a probe.&quot;&#xA;&#xA;      ^~~~~&#xA;&#xA;SanityCheck.h:624:8: error: #error &quot;Z_MIN_PROBE_USES_Z_MIN_ENDSTOP_PIN requires the Z_MIN_PIN to be defined.&quot;&#xA;&#xA;       #error &quot;Z_MIN_PROBE_USES_Z_MIN_ENDSTOP_PIN requires the Z_MIN_PIN to be defined.&quot;&#xA;&#xA;        ^~~~~&#xA;&#xA;SanityCheck.h:909:4: error: #error &quot;HEATER_0_PIN not defined for this board.&quot;&#xA;&#xA;   #error &quot;HEATER_0_PIN not defined for this board.&quot;&#xA;&#xA;    ^~~~~&#xA;&#xA;exit status 1&#xA;#error &quot;Unknown MOTHERBOARD value set in Configuration.h&quot;&#xA;&#xA;This report would have more information with&#xA;&quot;Show verbose output during compilation&quot;&#xA;option enabled in File -&gt; Preferences.&#xA;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My config file is as follows &lt;a href=&quot;https://gist.github.com/cripto101/9e9e36f509352ab19033beb189e166d7&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Config.h&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please let me know if there is anything else you might need to help with this matter and thank you for your time and attention.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19927" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-01-27T07:20:46.160" LastActivityDate="2020-01-27T09:55:33.950" Title="MKS GEN L unknown motherboard error" Tags="|marlin|creality-ender-5|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11860" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11857" CreationDate="2020-01-26T19:23:57.740" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;PLA doesn't usually have water absorption issues. It usually prints just fine ... Maker's Muse did a video using 7yo PLA filament (IIRC) which had been stored in the open. Printed without issues. Not saying all PLA's are going to work as well, but I don't think it's a place I'd be looking first for an issue. Moisture in the filaments usually exhibits itself as popping and spitting as the filament is extruded leaving blank spaces in your print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11242" LastActivityDate="2020-01-26T19:23:57.740" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11862" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11851" CreationDate="2020-01-26T20:33:53.807" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I tried, by &lt;strong&gt;instrumenting code&lt;/strong&gt;, to know &lt;strong&gt;where/when&lt;/strong&gt; the temp bed is modified.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found that it is called in the &lt;strong&gt;gcode M81&lt;/strong&gt; when starting the print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wait M81? isn't it M80 to switch on the PSU?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I did in fact was both &lt;strong&gt;wiring this up side down and mixing M80 with M81&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But what I didn't know is that M80 and M81 &lt;strong&gt;are not&lt;/strong&gt; strictly opposite functions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Indeed, M81 puts the &lt;code&gt;PS_ON&lt;/code&gt; signal to &lt;code&gt;PS_ASLEEP != PS_AWAKE&lt;/code&gt; but also &lt;strong&gt;disable all heaters&lt;/strong&gt;.&#xA;I couldn't see it without serial trace because the extruder temp is set back after the M81, but not the bed temp.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Problem solved.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this can help people in the future to spend less time than me on that simple mistake.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Note:&lt;/strong&gt; What remains a mystery, though, is: why was it working before on previous prints and then, suddenly, broke?!!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19359" LastEditorUserId="19359" LastEditDate="2020-01-26T21:44:26.463" LastActivityDate="2020-01-26T21:44:26.463" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11863" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-01-26T20:44:33.713" Score="0" ViewCount="48" Body="&lt;p&gt;Whenever I print something on my BIQU Magician 3D printer, there is often edge warping. What should I do to resolve this problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19930" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2020-01-27T12:26:20.047" LastActivityDate="2020-01-27T12:26:20.047" Title="Edge warping on BIQU Magician" Tags="|print-quality|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11864" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-01-27T04:27:47.247" Score="0" ViewCount="273" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the year that I have had my Flashforge Adventurer 3 I have just had a second extruder head break.  The replacement cost (in AUD) is 135.00. &#xA;But, I'll also need a new nozzle and a replacement ribbon cable for the extruder head.  That will add another $40.00.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Apart from filament costs, that brings the cost of &quot;consumables&quot; for my printer in the last year close to $350.00&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm beginning to think this makes the running costs for my 3D printing very high, but I have nothing to compare this with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone care to share what it costs them to keep a 3D printer operational per year?  Do my costs seem high? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13852" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2020-01-27T12:06:56.880" LastActivityDate="2021-02-21T00:06:10.583" Title="Running costs of 3D printing" Tags="|cost|flashforge-adventurer-3|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11865" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-01-27T07:59:17.187" Score="1" ViewCount="253" Body="&lt;p&gt;Recently I got a PETG filament from Filatech to print with my HyperCube printer with E3Dv6 clone Hotend. First 3 layers for every print are pretty fine but 4&lt;sup&gt;th&lt;/sup&gt; layer doesn't stick and my prints fail like the picture below:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fOmix.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fOmix.jpg&quot; alt=&quot; fail&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I use the following settings:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Slicer: Cura with Generic PETG profile &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hotend Temperature: 240&amp;nbsp;°C &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bed Temperature: 70&amp;nbsp;°C&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fan Speed: 100&amp;nbsp;% at the second layer&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Print Speed: 50&amp;nbsp;mm/s (first 3 layers @ 30 &amp;nbsp;mm/s)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also tested 225&amp;nbsp;°C and 250&amp;nbsp;°C hotend temperatures. Both failing at the 4&lt;sup&gt;th&lt;/sup&gt; or 5&lt;sup&gt;th&lt;/sup&gt; layer. What is the issue here?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;BTW I successfully printed with ABS and PLA with this printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10642" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2020-01-27T12:27:40.220" LastActivityDate="2020-01-27T12:37:00.993" Title="Printing Filatech PETG with HyperCube E3Dv6 Clone fails after 3 smooth layers" Tags="|troubleshooting|petg|print-failure|e3d-v6|hypercube|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11866" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11859" CreationDate="2020-01-27T09:12:20.423" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The MKS GEN L board was added in Marlin release 1.1.7 .&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to the configuration file you've linked and &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/releases&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;previous Marlin releases&lt;/a&gt;, your copy of Marlin is release 1.1.6. While all Marlin releases before 1.1.7 had &quot;010100&quot; as &quot;CONFIGURATION_H_VERSION&quot;, earlier versions had less features than listed in your configuration file.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In Marlin 2.0.x, the MKS GEN L is &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/blob/2.0.1/Marlin/src/core/boards.h#L66&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;also&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/blob/2.0.1/Marlin/src/pins/ramps/pins_MKS_GEN_L.h&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;available&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since you said it was also unavailable in 2.0.x, please provide a copy of your entire 2.0.x setup.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13171" LastActivityDate="2020-01-27T09:12:20.423" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11867" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11859" CreationDate="2020-01-27T09:55:33.950" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;As explained in the &lt;a href=&quot;/a/11866/&quot;&gt;answer by @towe&lt;/a&gt;, you are using an older version of the configuration file, it appears that you aren't using the latest sources from the 1.1.x and the 2.0.x trees.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition to the answer, the MKS GEN L is basically a RAMPS board with RAMPS pin layout except for a few pins. The board is defined in both &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/blob/1.1.x/Marlin/pins_MKS_GEN_L.h&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;1.1.9&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/blob/2.0.x/Marlin/src/pins/ramps/pins_MKS_GEN_L.h&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;2.0.x&lt;/a&gt; (if you scroll down you see that it includes the pin definition for a RAMPS layout: #include &quot;pins_RAMPS.h&quot;). This being said, you could get it to work in pre 1.1.7 release of Marlin if you must. Choosing a RAMPS board for &lt;code&gt;MOTHERBOARD&lt;/code&gt; constant and overriding/defining &lt;code&gt;MOSFET_D_PIN&lt;/code&gt; to 7, &lt;code&gt;X_CS_PIN&lt;/code&gt; to 59 and &lt;code&gt;X_CS_PIN&lt;/code&gt; to 63 will make the firmware work. But, it is advised to get the latest version, even Marlin 2.0.x will run fine on Arduino Mega 2560 based boards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2020-01-27T09:55:33.950" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11868" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-01-27T12:02:51.333" Score="1" ViewCount="2309" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was using Ender-3 Pro's CMagnet bed but I switched to glass bed (because original bed is warped) and left the magnet base (not the bed itself but the glued bed which CMagned sticks) on heated bed. So now it's 3 layered (heated bed - magnet bed's base - glass bed) bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I remove this magnet bed's base and put glass on the metal heated bed directly. Or it's not that important?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16714" LastActivityDate="2020-02-26T13:02:00.223" Title="Should I remove Cmagnet base for installing glass bed?" Tags="|creality-ender-3|heated-bed|glass-bed|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11869" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2020-01-27T12:28:35.393" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1752766&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;HyperCube&lt;/a&gt; is a popular CoreXY 3D printer (with a popular enhanced version called the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2254103&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;HyperCube Evolution&lt;/a&gt;) for those who like to step up the 3D printing quality with respect to e.g. Cartesian Prusa i3 type 3D printers (moving Y platform). The design consists of an aluminium cubicle frame that contains a raising/lowering (Z-axis) platform and a parallel manipulator system (stationary stepper motors for X and Y movement) to move the nozzle assembly. The lower inertia of a parallel manipulator system, when using the same motors and the same forces, typically gives more rapid acceleration than serial stackup arrangements. Frequently, the carriage uses a Bowden style hotend to maintain a low inertia value. The principles of movement are described &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.corexy.com/theory.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-01-27T19:04:05.633" LastActivityDate="2020-01-27T19:04:05.633" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11870" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2020-01-27T12:28:35.393" Score="0" Body="The HyperCube is an open source CoreXY 3D printer." OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2020-01-27T12:28:35.393" LastActivityDate="2020-01-27T12:28:35.393" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11871" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11865" CreationDate="2020-01-27T12:37:00.993" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As this is material dependant, you are facing not a printer, but a settings issue: your slicer needs the right settigns to print PETG.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first layers look good, but then we get signs of stringy printing. Stringy printing usually happens if the filament comes out of the nozzle too cold (I had tried to print PLA at 170 °C and it would look somewhat similar) or if it gets cooled or stretched too much (forced a print failure by speeding up a 60 mm/s print, somewhat similar around 250-300%; though the filament was not hot enough then too). This, in conjunction with the information, that you print PETG suggests the following things to fix:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Reduce or deactivate cooling. PETG often doesn't need cooling at all.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Reduce print speed. As 0scar said, 50 mm/s is a good upper limit on a well honed in machine. As your other layers with 30 mm/s were fine, you could possibly go down to 40 mm/s, if less cooling alone doesn't help.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastActivityDate="2020-01-27T12:37:00.993" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11872" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11868" CreationDate="2020-01-27T12:55:37.080" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The more layers, the higher the temperature you need to set the heated bed to reach the same print surface temperature as before (air is an insulator, so when entrapping air between your layer you insulate the heated bed). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do not know the weight of the magnet base, but, keeping adding weight is not a very good idea unless your bed goes up and down (movement in Z direction is generally much more slower than in Y direction), but the Enders 3 bed goes back and forth. The more mass the axis needs to displace the less accurate the print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2020-01-27T12:55:37.080" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11873" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11850" CreationDate="2020-01-27T15:32:08.150" Score="0" Body="&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Try cleaning bed with isopropyl alcohol to remove grease from the bed. (increases stickyness)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Try increasing bed temp to 70°C (increases stickyness)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If this is not enough, do a fresh bed leveling.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19938" LastActivityDate="2020-01-27T15:32:08.150" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11874" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11239" CreationDate="2020-01-27T16:02:53.530" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Connecting&lt;/strong&gt; the bltouch or 3dtouch clone &lt;strong&gt;to the normal Z-endstop&lt;/strong&gt; connector of a creality board (ender 3 / 3 pro / cr10) &lt;strong&gt;is the problem&lt;/strong&gt;!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Creality added a capacitor&lt;/strong&gt; to the Z-endstop connector to improve the signal of the normal endswitch. This capacitor impacts the data signal processing of the probe. (filters out signals)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other boards / manufacturers often do not have this capacitor. So there is no problem when using the probe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Known solutions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;connect the probe to the ISP header &lt;em&gt;(data to MOSI, Ground to GND)&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Others desolder the capacitor next to the Z-endstop-connector.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/KevinOConnor/klipper/issues/955#issuecomment-576971593&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Here is described my &quot;ISP header solution&quot; with details...&lt;/a&gt; (for Klipper, but could be adopted for Marlin)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Further information on &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/KevinOConnor/klipper/blob/master/docs/BLTouch.md&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;BLTouch Klipper docs&lt;/a&gt; (search for &quot;Troubleshooting&quot;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;After fixing&lt;/strong&gt;, Z should stop instantly when probe pin pops up. My probe speed is 50&amp;nbsp;mm/s (for Z). The &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/KevinOConnor/klipper/blob/master/docs/Probe_Calibrate.md&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Readability Check&lt;/a&gt; gives me 0.007-0.250&amp;nbsp;mm ranges between measurements (mine is a cheap Chinese clone).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19938" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-01-27T16:19:17.070" LastActivityDate="2020-01-27T16:19:17.070" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11875" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11886" CreationDate="2020-01-27T18:00:24.510" Score="3" ViewCount="14991" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is the thread pitch of the Ender 3's bed leveling screws? The diameter measures about 4mm. Are they M4 0.7 (coarse) pitch or 0.5 (fine) pitch? I'd like to develop rigorous formulas for the amount to turn the knobs by after measuring (or visually inspecting, since I can see an accurate 0.2 mm first layer decently well) leveling-test patterns in the corners rather than using a closed-loop tune-and-retry approach.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2021-02-26T19:46:12.633" Title="Thread pitch of Ender 3 bed leveling screws" Tags="|creality-ender-3|bed-leveling|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11876" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11875" CreationDate="2020-01-27T18:44:43.167" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't know what the value is, but there are a few ways to find out. It is very hard to measure this with a caliper, but it can be done, mark the upper and bottom of e.g. 10 windings and measure this with a caliper. Alternatively measure how much the screw drops after 10 full turns. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are special tools that give you the answer directly, they cost a few Euros/bucks but can be very handy; a thread gauge, just place the 0.5&amp;nbsp;mm and the 0.7&amp;nbsp;mm beside the screw and you will instantly see which is the correct one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UYqFm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UYqFm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;I bought mine at a typical Chinese vendor site.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-01-27T22:22:54.393" LastActivityDate="2020-01-27T22:22:54.393" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11877" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11875" CreationDate="2020-01-27T18:45:12.823" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Possibly tongue in cheek here, but if you can detect a 0.2 mm change, you may be able to determine visually the thread pitch, although it means de-tuning your bed for the experiment. Keeping close count is part of the experiment and you can reverse the count easily enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Make contact with the nozzle at the location of one screw. Count the turns in order to set the screw back to original location (or don't worry, re-tune later).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the pitch is 0.5 mm, two complete turns would give you a millimeter, while the 0.7 mm pitch will give you 1.4 mm. Make it four turns and the difference is more apparent. That would present a 2.0 mm compared to 2.8 mm for the two types of threads.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastActivityDate="2020-01-27T18:45:12.823" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11878" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11864" CreationDate="2020-01-27T21:51:15.910" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Prusa I3M3+MMU2, which I have had for a year.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;During the first year, the display failed under warranty and replaced for free.  The power supply also failed, and although Prusa replaced it, I was in a hurry and bought another supply to use as a backup for about \$60.00.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have used two rolls of paper towels, a bottle of acetone, and a quart of isopropanol, for maybe \$5.00.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have bought a spare thermister for about \$10.00, but haven't installed it yet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I bought a couple of new nozzles for specialized materials for \$35.00, but the nozzle I got with the machine isn't worn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I bought the textured build plate (when it was finally available) for about $30.00.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, my running cost, exclusive of electricity, is about \$140.00, including buying accessories which haven't been consumed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have also bought way too much filament, which you aren't counting.  Filament cost has dwarfed my other expenses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2082" LastActivityDate="2020-01-27T21:51:15.910" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11879" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11853" CreationDate="2020-01-27T22:39:49.537" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Fixed it finally, seems that the X axis was not level. Thank you to everyone who commented.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19920" LastEditorUserId="19920" LastEditDate="2020-07-07T12:08:32.670" LastActivityDate="2020-07-07T12:08:32.670" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11880" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11857" CreationDate="2020-01-28T00:48:16.157" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Warping is caused by the plastic shrinking as it cools and inadequate bed adhesion is usually the what lets it warp. Either cleaning your print surface very thoroughly with rubbing alcohol or using something like a glue stick on your print bed will mitigate that warping enough that you won't suffer problems with your print. Printing too hot can also be a problem because the plastic will need to even cool more after it is extruded and could possibly lead to more stresses buildup in the plastic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The dimensional stability of PLA really depends on the quality of the plastic. Storage conditions come into play as well, but it is mostly the quality of the material you need to worry about; I have some cheaper PLA that has gotten brittle due to having absorbed moisture despite being in a (albeit somewhat loosely closed) package with desiccants, and I also have a different brand of PLA that is of much higher quality that I just leave out in the open; this PLA doesn't exibit signs of moisture damage. Higher quality filaments are designed to resist moisture better and be more stable in terms of dimensions. With the cheaper brand of PLA, I have also experienced warping, but that is not due to moisture in the filament; that was actually from a new roll.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When a filament absorbs too much moisture, it can become brittle but still print. Excessive moisture will cause any water in the filament to vaporize when passing through the hotend and form bubbles that will ruin the finish quality of a print. You'll know if filament is excessively wet because you will hear quiet and sharp snapping sounds as the result of the bubbles that are formed in the plastic popping. You will also be able to see steam if you examine your hotend with a bright light as it is extruding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd suggest trying a different brand of filament if possible, cleaning the print surface / adding glue, or at the very least, a new roll of filament.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;(When using a glue stick to increase first layer adhesion, it could be worth noting something unusual I found; adding glue to the build plate of a Prusa i3 MK3S actually reduces bed adhesion in my experience. It might be worth playing around to see if super clean works for you, or if super sticky does. The build plate is coated in a very finely textured PEI if that is some information that could help your case.)&lt;/em&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19933" LastActivityDate="2020-01-28T00:48:16.157" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11881" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-01-28T11:34:25.863" Score="0" ViewCount="37" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to generate G-code for handle in Cura.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately Cura generates wrong supports - first layer of support has now background in starts in the air (see attached files)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So how to fix it? Is there any way (configuration etc.) to prevent such kind of supports?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DcinJ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DcinJ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7pYCg.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7pYCg.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Gm86n.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Gm86n.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.dropbox.com/s/6v0fryn33c3ap4v/cura_settings.curaprofile?dl=1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Cura profile&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gCP2Q.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gCP2Q.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YdsMe.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YdsMe.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fUqel.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fUqel.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19941" LastEditorUserId="19941" LastEditDate="2020-01-28T12:21:04.827" LastActivityDate="2020-01-28T12:21:04.827" Title="Cura how to fix &quot;on air support&quot;" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|support-structures|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="8" ClosedDate="2020-01-29T12:32:07.483" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11882" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-01-28T12:03:47.103" Score="1" ViewCount="149" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought a used Makerbot Replicator 2X, and I have some problems printing with it. The first problem I run into is the first layer adhesion to the print bed, it seems like the temperature of the bed starts to drop directly after first heating it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, calibration seems to be a problem, because when using the Home Axes function, the extruder is moved to its home - but there seems to be like a missing endstop sensor, because the stepper motors starts making a whole lot of noise. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, when moving the extruder manually using the Jog function, there is a lot of noise and also it's possible to move it out of its range (same type of noise as with the Home Axes function).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I understand that the bot I bought is not to be expected to function as new, but I need to understand what the problem is and how I can fix it. Is there parts missing even?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Trying the Home Axes and Jog functions resulting in a lot of noise: &lt;a href=&quot;https://photos.app.goo.gl/j3HX9qHvZCEBnPru7&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://photos.app.goo.gl/j3HX9qHvZCEBnPru7&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Printing with no adhesion and a falling Platform temperature: &lt;a href=&quot;https://photos.app.goo.gl/PHVtheWCRRmhz7bu7&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://photos.app.goo.gl/PHVtheWCRRmhz7bu7&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19942" LastActivityDate="2024-02-06T19:03:10.337" Title="Problems with noise, heat bed temperature and no X / Y endstop sensor on Makerbot Replicator 2X" Tags="|makerbot|replicator-dual|makerbot-replicator2|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11883" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11882" CreationDate="2020-01-28T12:14:01.673" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;First, your Y-belt is way too loose! (seen at the beginning of the first video). It is so loose the idlers barely grip onto it!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second, the X-endstop metal pin is loose, seen at 1:22 of the first video. Could be that the endstop is not working. Maybe you can hook up your printer to USB, you can then &lt;a href=&quot;/q/10573&quot;&gt;send direct commands to the printer&lt;/a&gt;, e.g. &lt;code&gt;M119&lt;/code&gt; will report the status of the endstops. Sending this code multiple times will alternatively pressing the endstops manually you can find out if they work. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the second video can be seen that the nozzle to bed distance it too large, and if fixed and still not adhering you need to apply an adhesive (hairspray/glue stick/or 3D print adhesion spray).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This printer is in need of some serious maintenance! Depending on your technical skills this may be a challenge!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-01-28T12:18:27.557" LastActivityDate="2020-01-28T12:18:27.557" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11884" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11845" CreationDate="2020-01-28T17:47:18.137" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The extruder can't hold much water and transport it to the melt zone.  Filament can.  The printer behaves like the filament is wet, so try drying it.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Try putting the filament in your electric oven at the lowest temperature (often 170&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;F to 180&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;F) for an hour and see if the behavior improves. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keep the filament at a distance from (or shield it from) the heating elements. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2082" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-02-01T06:54:13.643" LastActivityDate="2020-02-01T06:54:13.643" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11885" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-01-28T18:55:54.153" Score="1" ViewCount="1835" Body="&lt;p&gt;How do you call the mechanism that allows linear motion along the Z-axis in a Cartesian 3D Printer? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jJetV.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jJetV.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know what the individual parts are; it is a lead screw, a smooth rod ... but how do you call the mechanism that allows this linear motion?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mechanism is defined as: an assembly of moving parts performing a complete functional motion, often being part of a large machine&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I guess, it has to have a name, doesn't? .. but I am unable to find it&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1814" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-06-05T14:02:30.970" LastActivityDate="2020-11-02T15:02:00.207" Title="How do you call the Z-axis mechanism in a Cartesian 3D Printer?" Tags="|prusa-i3|z-axis|printer-building|linear-motion|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11886" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11875" CreationDate="2020-01-28T19:06:26.167" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I measured mine with a thread gauge and it says the pitch is &lt;strong&gt;0.7 mm&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, as the stock adjustment wheels have 14 bumps around their circumference, turning by one of those is an adjustment of exactly 0.05 mm (assuming no backlash).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can't speak for anyone else's, but due to the availability of replacement height adjustment wheels which don't specify alternative thread pitches, I &lt;em&gt;guess&lt;/em&gt; that's the only one in use. I encourage you to verify my finding before relying on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11255" LastEditorUserId="11255" LastEditDate="2021-02-26T19:46:12.633" LastActivityDate="2021-02-26T19:46:12.633" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11887" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11875" CreationDate="2020-01-28T19:30:51.550" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just as Andrew, I did run a quick test to measure it: on my corner closest to &amp;lt;0,0,0&gt;, a little stud is poking out. &lt;em&gt;Just&lt;/em&gt; enough to screw on a threadcutter I know without any cutting happening:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/W4fWc.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/W4fWc.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7jWyf.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7jWyf.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Indeed, it is &lt;strong&gt;M4x0.7&lt;/strong&gt;, aka coarse thread.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2020-01-28T19:37:00.767" LastActivityDate="2020-01-28T19:37:00.767" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11888" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11858" CreationDate="2020-01-28T20:11:50.410" Score="4" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Not with consumer equipment.&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;FDM printers are functionally three-axis motion control machines: &amp;quot;extrude quantity &lt;strong&gt;W&lt;/strong&gt; material at position &lt;strong&gt;X Y Z&lt;/strong&gt;, continue to next &lt;strong&gt;W&lt;/strong&gt;, &lt;strong&gt;X&lt;/strong&gt;, &lt;strong&gt;Y&lt;/strong&gt;, and &lt;strong&gt;Z&lt;/strong&gt;.&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Adapting it to control a laser position is a relatively simple task, because most of the logic is the same. &amp;quot;fire laser for &lt;strong&gt;W&lt;/strong&gt; duration&amp;quot; instead of &amp;quot;extrude quantity &lt;strong&gt;W&lt;/strong&gt; material&amp;quot;. Moving the laser around is functionally similar to moving the print head around.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Consumer SLA (aka &amp;quot;DLP&amp;quot; or &amp;quot;mSLA&amp;quot;) is an entirely different logic, a different process. It is effectively layer-by-layer snapshots, rather than multi-axis motion control. They do a whole layer at a time, then lift the whole object up for the next layer: &amp;quot;flash layer &lt;strong&gt;1&lt;/strong&gt; for &lt;strong&gt;W&lt;/strong&gt; duration, lift bed &lt;strong&gt;Z&lt;/strong&gt;, proceed to layer &lt;strong&gt;2&lt;/strong&gt;.&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Professional/industrial SLA printers that use lasers exist (like SLS), but they're tuned to precisely cure photopolymer resins, not cut things.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14061" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:29:41.667" LastActivityDate="2020-02-10T15:38:53.723" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11889" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11892" CreationDate="2020-01-28T20:12:15.427" Score="2" ViewCount="231" Body="&lt;p&gt;We have a Lulzbot Mini at my office (i.e. it's not my personal printer). It's connected to an OctoPi and I've been able to get just one file to print on it (which I had to cancel due to leveling issues). Others have used it successfully in the past.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, right now, every time I try to connect to it through OctoPrint, I just get gibberish back:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Connecting to: /dev/ttyACM0&#xA;Changing monitoring state from &quot;Offline&quot; to &quot;Opening serial port&quot;&#xA;Connected to: Serial&amp;lt;id=0x6f830510, open=True&amp;gt;(port='/dev/ttyACM0', baudrate=115200, bytesize=8, parity='N', stopbits=1, timeout=10.0, xonxoff=False, rtscts=False, dsrdtr=False), starting monitor&#xA;Changing monitoring state from &quot;Opening serial port&quot; to &quot;Connecting&quot;&#xA;Send: N0 M110 N0*125&#xA;Send: N0 M110 N0*125&#xA;Recv: �Np|\x04n6H\x15\x06'&#xA;Recv: \x10ONv�HO&#xA;Recv: J%�i�h�ON,=\x0c\x14\x07�|i�Mx86B~1~\x04g\x1a\x1e�HO&#xA;Recv: J%P|H~\x03�^�-\x08n6�M�w��K�'&#xA;Recv: \x08�^�;V7JO\x1e\x0b�\x08\�H^�Kqp|\x08\x13\x08H\x08\x04P|&quot;]+X{\x16�\x08nl�P&amp;lt;\x08\x14\x08]�x�&#xA;Recv: �J�X�\x1a�H3H6F�J�J%�J/H\x08^�I\x08ZY\x08\x07:&amp;amp;h\x0f^\x17�}�$p|\x08\x14&#xA;Recv: ^HJ�J�\x08�J\x1b�*':f\x18�k\x1e&amp;gt;H]�Zf�J�Z�J�%\x08^\x08W�X�\x1a�\x0b\x1e\x1eH]�Z�Kq?N!KP�.N!Kka�.a\x0b'&#xA;Recv: �J�J�JH�I�JHJP|@_a\x13�\x16�/m\x7f\x1fy�\x16=�6\x1b�VO6�=�6\x1b�f&amp;gt;�K7f\x7f�K{f&amp;gt;�K\x1bf��+'J�z�J\x08@�\x08�J%�\x18%�(�J\x17�&#xA;Recv: \x07&#xA;Recv: �M!&#xA;Recv: gJ�j�I�j\x08N�x�\x1a\x7fB&#xA;�\x0b]F�J�J�x�&#xA;Recv: V&#xA;Recv: o\x16�F�J�Z�j\x0c.�\x08%�\x05\x07J�j�5�\x18HJ�J�X�*�\F]{L$P&amp;lt;\x08�\x08~5Ip|\x04}&amp;amp;@\x1faF�J�J�If�\x1a33l\x7f�N\x0bYp|\x088&#xA;No answer from the printer within the connection timeout, trying another hello&#xA;Send: N0 M110 N0*125&#xA;There was a timeout while trying to connect to the printer&#xA;Changing monitoring state from &quot;Connecting&quot; to &quot;Offline&quot;&#xA;Connection closed, closing down monitor&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only thing I can think of right now is refreshing the firmware, but before I do that, I figured I'd ask here. Does any one know what this gibberish is and how I can restore this printer to regular operation?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19846" LastActivityDate="2020-01-28T21:49:10.143" Title="OctoPrint Unable to Connect to Lulzbot Mini" Tags="|octoprint|lulzbot|serial-connection|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11890" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-01-28T21:24:02.953" Score="1" ViewCount="2284" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an Ender 3 with a removeable build surface. The build surface backing has become warped - the center is at least 0.3 mm higher than the corners. I'm not sure what the material of this plate is - it's the part behind the BuildTak-clone surface that sits on the aluminum heat bed and is clipped to it. This makes it impossible to level the entire bed, and annoyingly tedious to level it enough just to use the center, since the paper method doesn't work at the corners. Can this be fixed, or do I need to source a replacement for it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2020-01-29T13:54:02.547" LastActivityDate="2020-01-29T17:08:01.573" Title="Can you fix a warped, removeable build surface backing?" Tags="|creality-ender-3|bed-leveling|build-plate|repair|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11891" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11890" CreationDate="2020-01-28T21:27:34.313" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes. I rigged up the following setup with blue tape and clips and a pen for tensioning, used the nozzle (unheated) to hold the center down against the bed, and set the bed to 100 °C for about an hour. Afterwards the curvature was in the opposite direction and easily compensated by clips.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mA2By.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;photo of the setup described above&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2020-01-28T21:27:34.313" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11892" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11889" CreationDate="2020-01-28T21:49:10.143" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the printer returns gibberish, the Baud rate of the connection is incorrect. You are using 115200 in the example above. For older Mini firmwares, it should indeed be 115200. For the newer 1.1.5.xx builds, it should be 250000.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2020-01-28T21:49:10.143" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11893" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-01-28T22:00:17.627" Score="4" ViewCount="3041" Body="&lt;p&gt;Marlin has a &lt;a href=&quot;http://marlinfw.org/tools/lin_advance/k-factor.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Linear Advance calibration pattern generator&lt;/a&gt;, but I find it's hard to use because:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It only prints the initial layer on the bed, where bed irregularities interfere with accurate reading of it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It doesn't do proper retraction and priming, so a mess of strings and underextruded initial segments/non-adhesion mess up the results.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It's hard to visually evaluate.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Getting a very wide range of K values involves multiple runs.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It's hard to clean up.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a better procedure for calibration of K value for linear advance?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2020-01-29T17:10:33.783" Title="Linear advance calibration technique" Tags="|marlin|calibration|print-material|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11894" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11885" CreationDate="2020-01-28T22:07:15.517" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Linear actuator would be the proper name for the mechanism driving the movement along a single axis. There are 2 linear actuators driving the X-axis platform (for a Prusa i3 Cartesian printer, or the build platform for a raising bed Cartesian printer like a CoreXY, H-bot, etc.), the collection of parts could be named the Z-axis assembly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2020-01-28T22:07:15.517" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11895" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11893" CreationDate="2020-01-28T22:08:09.423" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The same effect as Marlin's test pattern, with alternation between fast and slow segments, can be achieved with a skewed tower and Cura's overhang settings, providing the opportunity to interactively adjust K value during the print, or insert changes at particular layers in the gcode for automated test towers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm using the following OpenSCAD to make a skewed cylinder:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;multmatrix(&#xA;   [[1,0,1/8,0],&#xA;    [0,1,0,0],&#xA;    [0,0,1,0],&#xA;    [0,0,0,1]])&#xA;cylinder(d=40,h=40);&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;with Cura set to:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;no top/bottom layers or infill&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;single walls&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;treat walls with 1° overhang as overhangs&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;print overhangs at 25% speed&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These values can of course be tuned, but the extreme low overhang angle and 8/1 slope is to prevent actual physical overhang-printing considerations from messing up the test.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Vase mode might work even better for this if it supports overhang settings, since it would avoid the layer seam.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2020-01-28T22:08:09.423" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11896" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6659" CreationDate="2020-01-28T22:50:16.663" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Layer height in my cura settings means that head of extruder will be going up at 0.3mmm, and how i know that? Because i measure few different settings with height of bed.&#xA;When I set bed to -0.2mm, ike everybody is proposing on internet, and i started printing first layer, I did stop it and measure with precise caliper thickness, it was 4.2mm, (human precision with leveling bed :P ) that was for me  to much, because extruded material almost was not sticking to the bed,, and walls was not connected each other.&#xA;I did test also with home position of nozzle and setting bed to touch nozzle, to 0 height. ( YEAH) And again I measure thickness of first layer. It was precise 0.3mm. Exactly as I want.&#xA;That means that or I have better software witch can take nozzle up with initial layer in cura settings?, or magical printer, but my printer is cheap and is buy'ed almost by everybody. &#xA; That means that peoples who are teaching others how to set bed in a printer are totally wrong. Maybe no one measure thickens of first layer? &#xA; Even seller from who I buy printer propose me use paper with thickens of 0.25mm to set level of the bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Previously I have problems with first layer, because that was too high from bed, now when I set 0 position of nozzle exactly with bed, I don't have problems with thickens of layer, and printed element looks allot better from bottom.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19949" LastActivityDate="2020-01-28T22:50:16.663" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11897" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11843" CreationDate="2020-01-29T09:35:14.923" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sharing fan percentages like in &lt;a href=&quot;/a/11852/&quot;&gt;this answer&lt;/a&gt; is only helpful if you use the same printer model, cooling fan and cooling duct. As there are many 3D printers and many cooling fans, ducts and solutions, this cannot be readily adopted to every 3D printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, in such a case I would rely on the manufacturers of the filament e.g. the flexible filament I use has settings for different printers listed &lt;a href=&quot;http://ngen-flex.colorfabb.com/how/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;. TPU is not very prone to warping. The general rule for cooling of TPU is found to not use it for the first 2 layers and after that proceed with a moderate cooling flow. What that value is for your printer is left as an experiment. Several test/calibration print designs exist (e.g. for bridging) to test this out. It is said that a little cooling aids in better aesthetic prints (finer details) while less cooling results in stronger layer adhesion and thus stronger prints.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2020-01-29T09:35:14.923" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11898" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11899" CreationDate="2020-01-29T12:54:17.590" Score="1" ViewCount="51" Body="&lt;p&gt;I created an stl file of bathymetry using Matlab and the results can be seen in the two pictures below in Blender. The problem I have is that it is very thin with overhangs. I would like to add some kind of support. For example put a solid block underneath it like in the third picture.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/p0gUZ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/p0gUZ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Wjh7G.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Wjh7G.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gZWJX.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gZWJX.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can't seem to figure out how to do this in Blender and if I try to fix the stl file in Blender it puts a surface through my original surface. I also tried to use Microsoft 3D printing repair but it takes hours to queue.&#xA;How to I change my stl file so it has enough support to be printed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19953" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2020-07-13T10:36:33.510" LastActivityDate="2020-07-13T10:36:33.510" Title="creating support for a surface" Tags="|3d-design|support-structures|stl|blender|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11899" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11898" CreationDate="2020-01-29T13:01:16.833" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You generated a simple surface. You do however need a closed body to print. You might get away with using that surface as a cutter for a block and removing the top half, but there is an easier way using blender:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Select the whole ara with &lt;code&gt;A&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Extrude with &lt;code&gt;E&lt;/code&gt; then &lt;code&gt;Z&lt;/code&gt; to constrain direction&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;pull until you have an item that is fully thick everywhere&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Scale the currently selected, extruded vertices with &lt;code&gt;S&lt;/code&gt; then &lt;code&gt;Z&lt;/code&gt; then &lt;code&gt;0&lt;/code&gt; to force them all into the same plane&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;possibly move the vertices down till they all are below the bottom surface&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now you have a positive thickness, solid body! Run a simple &quot;remove double vertices&quot; on this bottom if you want to reduce file size, but there you go! Export as STL and print!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2020-01-29T14:04:48.123" LastActivityDate="2020-01-29T14:04:48.123" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11900" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10686" CreationDate="2020-01-29T14:42:44.127" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a guess but it may be a problem with the sliced file. Take a look though the layers of the sliced file to see if your software is adding a layer there. sometimes it looks fine in the 3d model but it can add a layer while slicing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19914" LastActivityDate="2020-01-29T14:42:44.127" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11901" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11890" CreationDate="2020-01-29T16:20:47.833" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the backing of the build surface softens under heat, one might strap it into a contraption to heat, or just put it into an oven on a flat surface, baking it with some weight to flatten it fully.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An alternate to fixing the removeable build plate itself, one might considder to buy a (spring)steel plate and glue a new build surface onto it. Such a plate is really sturdy and would be mountable with the same clips. It might be also faster in heating behavior as steel is usually a better conductor than plastics. It might be thinner than the original sttack though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now such a steel plate also is magnetic and could be alternatively mounted by adding a set of high temperature resistant magnets set into the heat bed. Such a rework does however have a higher work needed than a pure fix.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2020-01-29T17:08:01.573" LastActivityDate="2020-01-29T17:08:01.573" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11902" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11893" CreationDate="2020-01-29T17:10:33.783" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can use Klipper tuning tower and change the K value at each layer using Gcodes.&#xA;You can find the model here: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3957406&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3957406&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I find easier to see the best results this way, also you can test way more settings in a single run, while the Marlin pattern generator lets you test only few values at time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remember to print without infill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iqW3X.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iqW3X.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2338" LastActivityDate="2020-01-29T17:10:33.783" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11903" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11381" CreationDate="2020-01-29T17:33:20.923" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had a similar problem with my 3 week old Ender 3 Pro.&#xA;I changed the nozzle to no avail then double checked the bed gaps. Some people seem to have the paper drag quite a lot others no drag. After 3 tries to print the first couple of layers of the Harry Potter pen holder resulting in not sticking to the bed I re-sliced but used a skirt to get a better bedding, I also raised the bed temp to 65 for the first few layers and the nozzle to 205 this seems to have worked. I also wipe the bed with rubbing alcohol before most prints if they play &#xA;up. Hope it’s helps, it it doesn’t then no harm done. PLA was used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19954" LastActivityDate="2020-01-29T17:33:20.923" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11904" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11381" CreationDate="2020-01-29T18:02:29.210" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;When my printer suddenly started to underextrude, it was the fault of the extruder lever being broken and not pushing out enough material. Replacing the extruder for a metal version did fix it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another common issues that can result in bad adhesion is a greasy or destroyed build surface. Such is fixed with cleaning or replacing the part.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2020-01-29T20:16:21.833" LastActivityDate="2020-01-29T20:16:21.833" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11906" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-01-30T00:03:13.480" Score="0" ViewCount="181" Body="&lt;p&gt;After I installed the BLTouch sensor, the manual adjustment of the Z offset is unreliable. I found that for it to work, the software endstops must be disabled. If they are enabled, the nozzle won't move either up not down.&#xA;But if they are disabled, it sometimes works and some others does not, I can't find a pattern to it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas of what I'm doing wrong?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19958" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-01-30T07:08:24.237" LastActivityDate="2020-01-30T23:00:23.577" Title="Z level babystepping works inconsistently after BLTouch was installed" Tags="|bed-leveling|bltouch|print-axis-offset|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11907" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11381" CreationDate="2020-01-30T02:22:39.810" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;After watching it countless times, I found out that it was the magnetic mat on the bed that has worn out. It no longer adheres to the bed completely flat and some of the texture was worn down more than in other areas. It wasn't visually detectable - I found it by checking the nozzle height with various feeler gauges in multiple random locations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19164" LastActivityDate="2020-01-30T02:22:39.810" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11908" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-01-30T02:25:40.950" Score="0" ViewCount="797" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there a way to have the Bigtreetech TFT35 v3.0 show a G-code preview while printing - similar to the MKS TFT35?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19164" LastEditorUserId="4922" LastEditDate="2021-04-21T13:22:19.880" LastActivityDate="2021-04-21T13:22:19.880" Title="TFT35 and G-code preview" Tags="|g-code|bigtreetech|display|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11909" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-01-30T02:41:20.750" Score="0" ViewCount="211" Body="&lt;p&gt;I faced some problem with my 3D printer device. It seems the bed warms up without any problem, however, the hotend does not warm up! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could you please help me identify what the problem is? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19959" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-01-30T11:41:28.120" LastActivityDate="2020-01-31T04:07:58.107" Title="3D printing extruder not warming up" Tags="|diy-3d-printer|troubleshooting|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11910" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11909" CreationDate="2020-01-30T10:45:34.123" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I really hope the extruder doesn't warm up as this would be a problem with your stepper motor :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm sure you mean the hotend doesn't heat up. This could be a number of things but i would start to double check the pinout in your code vs the pins on your mainboard and measure if it gives 12v/24v (depending on your PSU) output.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's a lot more info required to properly help you.&#xA;What board are you using?&#xA;What OS are you using? Marlin or something else?&#xA;Share the relevant code of the OS for the hotend config/pinout&#xA;potentially share pictures of your wiring&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19961" LastActivityDate="2020-01-30T10:45:34.123" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11911" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-01-30T15:51:44.347" Score="0" ViewCount="92" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am attempting to build a 3D printer using the &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/gregsaun/prusa_i3_b&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Bear Upgrade&lt;/a&gt; for guidance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this moment, I am implementing the X-Axis. The X_end_idler consist in two parts, the idler and the belt tensioner, as you can see on the following pictures:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/T9cVR.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/T9cVR.png&quot; alt=&quot;X end idler and tensioner&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xUirW.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xUirW.png&quot; alt=&quot;X end idler&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/skBUV.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/skBUV.png&quot; alt=&quot;Belt tensioner&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The belt tensioner is inserted inside the idler. It is attached to the idler with two screws on the back part of the idler.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0hlRX.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0hlRX.png&quot; alt=&quot;Back part of the idler&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The tensioner holds a 2GT Idler Pulley as per the image:&#xA; &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/J2wJ7.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/J2wJ7.png&quot; alt=&quot;X Idler with tensioner, pulley and belt &quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, here comes my question to anybody that has attempted to implement the Bear Upgrade:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How is the pulley attached to the tensioner? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The tensioner has a hole that crosses from side to side, but there is no space on the design where to fit a screw head nor a nut. I am a bit lost here and would like to know if there is a trick I can follow, before attempting to modify the design.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here I attach the link to the pieces: &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/gregsaun/bear_extruder_and_x_axis&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Bear_extruder_and_x_axis&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bear_upgrade&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19469" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-01-30T21:42:48.650" LastActivityDate="2020-01-30T21:42:48.650" Title="Help needed implementing Bear Upgrade" Tags="|prusa-i3|diy-3d-printer|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11912" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-01-30T17:30:55.370" Score="0" ViewCount="61" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a problem with some models like this (trim_tabs version) : &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3401852&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3401852&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I import the model on simplify, the tabs are sticky to the model (see pic3.png) but when I slice it, on the preview, tabs are not sticky to the model (see pic1.png).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried to do it on Cura and it works ; tabs stay stiky to the model (see pics2.png).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What's wrong ?&#xA;I attach my Simplify and Cura profile to help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To get pics and profiles :&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://drive.google.com/open?id=1NkMBosI-xalRGjTSua1xDejZ2MKWZcV9&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://drive.google.com/open?id=1NkMBosI-xalRGjTSua1xDejZ2MKWZcV9&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19965" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2020-01-30T19:19:59.710" LastActivityDate="2020-01-31T13:46:04.443" Title="Simplify3D, connection disapear after slice" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|slicing|simplify3d|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2023-12-13T21:41:52.443" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11913" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-01-30T18:11:34.583" Score="1" ViewCount="1185" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have two printers, one is an Anet A8 and the other one is a CreatBot DX plus. On both of them I installed a BLTouch, firstly on the DX and today on the A8. I have never had a problem with the probe, but today I am experiencing some problems. I just set the offset, by doing the procedure, and I found to that the Z0 is -0.8 mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Problem is, when I start to print (I use Cura as a Slicer and OctoPrint), I run &lt;code&gt;G28&lt;/code&gt; and &lt;code&gt;G29&lt;/code&gt;, everything is fine and the bed gets mapped. When the print starts, something weird occurs: the nozzle goes down for the regions where the bed is higher! So, the layer that is put down, is very thin and the nozzle actually dives into the bed! It is like a &lt;code&gt;Z0&lt;/code&gt; too low, so the nozzle crashes into the bed, but it is not because in &lt;code&gt;X100&lt;/code&gt; &lt;code&gt;Y100&lt;/code&gt; it is perfectly fine! Could you have any idea why this occurs?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;What have I tried?&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Changing bed springs&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Because I was curious, and impatient I changed the springs with the Ender ones I bought online. The problem is still here! I can see the bed closer to the nozzle during bed leveling, compared to the left side. So I screwed the right side, to see any difference. However, the nozzle seems to be always closer on the right side! I checked the X rods, they are leveled.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Searched online&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I checked almost everywhere online and I found out that it could be a problem related to the bilinear bed leveling. So I changed to linear, and apparently now I can print! I believe it is something related to the mesh the firmware creates after the leveling, which is avoided for the linear. &amp;lt;I will let you know tomorrow, after I change the frame whether the bilinear will work or not! I can still see that the left-side part of the print is closer to the bed, but now I can print at least. Will let you know! Bye!&amp;gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19966" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2022-01-07T15:30:39.403" LastActivityDate="2024-01-27T21:03:40.473" Title="Nozzle goes down after bed leveling BLTouch" Tags="|anet-a8|bltouch|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11915" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11381" CreationDate="2020-01-30T21:32:05.210" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A few tips:&#xA;Re-tighten your belts.&#xA;Wash your printbed with soap and water and don't touch it with human skin once clean.&#xA;Ensure your filament doesn't contain moisture. Always store your filament dry as it's hydrophilic and goes bad over time.&#xA;Make sure your printbed is always as level as possible before printing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19961" LastActivityDate="2020-01-30T21:32:05.210" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11916" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11912" CreationDate="2020-01-30T21:38:52.590" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's not uncommon that different slicers have different effects on different models.&#xA;The techniques used to slice the models differs. If the model you slice works fine in one and not in the other it's sometimes a setting but sometimes just the slicer.&#xA;Just use the slicer that works :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19961" LastActivityDate="2020-01-30T21:38:52.590" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11917" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11913" CreationDate="2020-01-30T21:44:09.267" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Check and potentially replace your bed springs as this is a common cause with cheap bed springs.&#xA;An immediate workaround is redoing your Z-offset but most likely after a while you have to repeat it until you replace the bed springs with stronger ones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After replacing springs you have to redo Z-offset again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19961" LastActivityDate="2020-01-30T21:44:09.267" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11920" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11845" CreationDate="2020-01-31T02:33:29.773" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It really isn't reasonable to expect moisture to be inside of the extruder assembly; it would be the filament. Assuming there was moisture somewhere, the filament would not have time to absorb it in the short time it is inside of the extruder. Once it got to the hot block, any moisture would steam away and shouldn't give you that snapping sound; the moisture needs to be inside of the filament for that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because the filament is inside of a vacuum packed bag with a desiccant doesn't really mean anything if you think about it. The desiccants are typically inside of the spool hole and the plastic bag seals that chamber where the desiccant resides. The filament is on the other side of the spool and the desiccant can't really do anything beyond dry out that pocket of air that it is inside; the filament itself isn't really exposed to the desiccant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can also imagine a balloon, do you know how the air/helium slowly leaks out of it after a few days until you're left with a sad pocket of air loosely contained in a bag of wrinkly rubber? You can imagine your bag that the filament came in as a balloon too, but instead of leaking air out, it is leaching moisture in. This of course takes a really long time and depends on the quality of plastic the bag is made of, its thickness, and the quality and properties of the material the filament is composed of. Because the desiccant isn't between the bag and the filament, as soon as moisture gets in the bag, it's likely it'll be immediately exposed to the filament.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I first started 3D printing, I opened up a fresh spool of black ABS from ColorCubed. It was nicely vacuum packed and with a silica-gel packet, but after immediately opening it and putting it in my new printer and then printing with it, you could tell it was so saturated with moisture that you'd swear you could wring it out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is possible you got a shoddy spool, it is possible that you got a really old spool. I'd advise looking into some techniques to dry out the filament and going from there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Welcome to the community, by the way!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19933" LastActivityDate="2020-01-31T02:33:29.773" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11922" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8271" CreationDate="2020-01-31T03:47:53.387" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;First, make sure to check if stow, deploy and the trigger are working correctly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second, check the pins files to make sure you put it in the correct pins. Black and White probe pin might need to go to Z-min or probe pin depending on. Make sure to check that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Third, add &quot;BLTOUCH delay&quot;. It might be triggering too slow or too fast for the next one to react. So after the first trigger, there should be a time for it to &quot;re-setup&quot; for the second. But if there is no time to do that then it won't trigger. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To add examples: If you have SKR 1.4 Turbo, then use BLTouch probe pins (black and white) on the board. IT will NOT recognize. You have to use Z-min endstop pins. Reason for this?:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#define Z_MIN_PROBE_USES_Z_MIN_ENDSTOP_PIN&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this has been used, Z-min probe will use Z-min endstop pin instead of Z-min probe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19973" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-01-31T07:30:51.807" LastActivityDate="2020-01-31T07:30:51.807" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11923" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11913" CreationDate="2020-01-31T04:01:39.740" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my opinion, you should check if you get consistent value every time you &lt;code&gt;G29&lt;/code&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you didn't do anything and the value keeps changing that means your bed is not durable which could be due to bad bed springs. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now if you do get the same value, again and again, that means your bed is okay. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This means you need to see your Cura. You may have something set in the Start G-code that might be causing it to move further down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19973" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-03-03T09:10:51.783" LastActivityDate="2020-03-03T09:10:51.783" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11924" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11909" CreationDate="2020-01-31T04:07:58.107" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;First, I want to make sure if your hotend is really not heating up. If you are saying the numbers are not showing (like when it is heating, the number on display or octoprint says 0/180) this could be a Thermistor problem. Check to make sure if your hot end is heating up by putting a paper or filament under it. DO NOT touch with your hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second, If your hotend is truly not heating up, then several things can be happening.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your hotend is wired wrong. Make sure your board is correctly wired. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your hotend is dead. Change to different hotend and see if it works.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your hotend is not getting enough power. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19973" LastActivityDate="2020-01-31T04:07:58.107" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11925" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11839" CreationDate="2020-01-31T04:14:37.850" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It would be great if you can write what the printer says when it stops. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suggest you try printing other small objects. If that also stops then the printer itself has a problem. But if the printer prints other objects without stopping, then the one you want to print has bad gcode files. You also need to make sure to keep it up-to-date Cura. It would also be great if you can update your printer firmware. But other than that, problems could be heat problem, power problem, and other stuff; it would be great again if you can write the problem that says on the printer as it stops... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19973" LastActivityDate="2020-01-31T04:14:37.850" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11927" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11839" CreationDate="2020-01-31T06:45:28.977" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just an off chance: you might somehow have pause instructions being set into the G-code without your being aware.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19975" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-01-31T07:31:17.283" LastActivityDate="2020-01-31T07:31:17.283" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11928" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11839" CreationDate="2020-01-31T09:29:12.700" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The cr10s has a filament run-out sensor. If the microswitch doesn't function properly, or you have issues with the wiring, the print pauses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19961" LastActivityDate="2020-01-31T09:29:12.700" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11929" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-01-31T12:17:52.683" Score="0" ViewCount="475" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to use my secondary Win 10 PC for OctoPrint (Direct connection to the Printer via USB) but Windows detects the Printer as&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unknown USB Device (Device Descriptor Request Failed)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm 99.9 % sure the cable is not the problem cause it works perfectly fine on any other device. I've tried installing multiple driver versions (including the one that came with the printer) but no luck yet. I also tried different cables/USB ports, no luck either.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cx2YC.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Device Manager&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cx2YC.png&quot; alt=&quot;Device Manager&quot; title=&quot;Device Manager&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/a7AAL.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Properties&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/a7AAL.png&quot; alt=&quot;Properties&quot; title=&quot;Properties&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From Properties-&amp;gt;Events-&amp;gt;Information I get this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Device USB\VID_0000&amp;amp;PID_0002\6&amp;amp;23938f4b&amp;amp;0&amp;amp;4 was configured.&#xA; &#xA;Driver Name: usb.inf&#xA;Class Guid: {36fc9e60-c465-11cf-8056-444553540000}&#xA;Driver Date: 06/21/2006&#xA;Driver Version: 10.0.18362.1&#xA;Driver Provider: Microsoft&#xA;Driver Section: BADDEVICE.Dev.NT&#xA;Driver Rank: 0xFF0000&#xA;Matching Device Id: USB\DEVICE_DESCRIPTOR_FAILURE&#xA;Outranked Drivers: usb.inf:USB\DEVICE_DESCRIPTOR_FAILURE:00FF2000&#xA;Device Updated: false&#xA;Parent Device: USB\VID_8087&amp;amp;PID_0024\5&amp;amp;2564d19a&amp;amp;0&amp;amp;1&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19976" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2024-03-12T00:34:04.733" LastActivityDate="2024-03-12T00:34:04.733" Title="CR 10 mini not detected as serial interface (Win 10)" Tags="|creality-cr-10|octoprint|usb|serial-connection|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11930" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11912" CreationDate="2020-01-31T13:46:04.443" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've tried that item as well.  In fact, other than the heart, I built a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3825323&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;remix&lt;/a&gt;  which works better but is still difficult to free up after printing.  Those tabs you're concerned about will print better at a very low (thin) layer setting. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am pretty sure that the original design is faulty.  All the &quot;leaves&quot; have gears which cause them to rotate when the threaded ring is turned.  But the designer made all leaves identical!  Each one needs its gear's  null-position set differently so that it properly meshes with the thread positions of the outer ring at that leaf's placement.  Some day I may remix to adjust those gear positions....  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2191" LastActivityDate="2020-01-31T13:46:04.443" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11931" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11845" CreationDate="2020-01-31T15:13:44.913" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;250&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C is a bit hot for PETG - It's in the range, but on the hot side. Popping is usually due to moisture. I've had many new, vacuum sealed spools of filament have moisture in them. Try drying it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd recommend a dehydrator rather than an oven; with PETG I wouldn't go over 150&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;F.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem with an oven is the extreme radiant heat from the elements can (not always) melt or deform the spool or even fuse parts of the filament in the spool together. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19164" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-02-01T06:51:29.063" LastActivityDate="2020-02-01T06:51:29.063" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11932" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-02-01T01:27:43.480" Score="0" ViewCount="472" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to troubleshoot an issue with my 3D printer (Robo 3D R1+). It cannot print vertical walls well any more. Here is a picture of what it looks like:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4Y4PE.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4Y4PE.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The walls are very inconsistent. To correct this issue, I've tried:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Changing the nozzle&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tightening the hotend (to remove wobble)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Dehydrating the filament&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Using brand new (good quality) filament&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Printing faster &amp;amp; slower&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Printing hotter &amp;amp; cooler&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Trying different slicers (Ultimaker Cura &amp;amp; Simplify3D)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Putting on a belt tightener&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The 5 motor drivers are all new as well, but this was already happening before I changed them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5579" LastEditorUserId="3864" LastEditDate="2020-02-07T23:45:12.753" LastActivityDate="2020-02-07T23:45:12.753" Title="Inconsistent vertical walls on a Robo 3D R1+" Tags="|print-quality|troubleshooting|robo-r1+|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11934" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11932" CreationDate="2020-02-01T05:29:31.293" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Mmm... you've tried lots of obvious things. I don't have a printer the same as yours, so my help is generic. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How about a thorough check of extruder and filament path, since it may be just inconsistent filament feed? I've seen something similar happen when the filament reel was not rolling freely. Less likely, but also check that the frame is still solid and nothing has come loose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user19977" LastActivityDate="2020-02-01T05:29:31.293" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11935" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11929" CreationDate="2020-02-01T05:47:43.180" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use Linux, so I am not familiar with Win10 stuff. But, it seems that the device driver has asked the USB device for its identifying codes (PID and VID) and got no recognisable response. Could be a bad cable, but you seem to have checked that. Could be a fried USB interface chip, so check whether you have any luck trying to connect to any other computer. If you can find someone with a Linux machine (or you have something you can run Linux on), the logs will tell you a lot more about what has been tried and what failed (or not).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that the parent USB device is VID=8087 (being Intel Corp.) and PID=0024 (being the &lt;a href=&quot;https://devicehunt.com/search/type/usb/vendor/8087/device/0024&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Integrated Rate Matching Hub&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user19977" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2023-10-13T14:28:25.540" LastActivityDate="2023-10-13T14:28:25.540" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11936" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11809" CreationDate="2020-02-01T07:08:55.693" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The rise times are quicker than the fall times, which is not what I expected. Maybe a fan is turning on and off, but I'd expect to see the heater struggling to heat up. On both graphs, the rise times look like good heating and not much interference. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems to me that power to the hotend is the problem, but what can cause a drop in power but not to zero (as in the first graph)? Assuming that the file and the software are OK, then it's hardware: the MOSFET and the subsequent tracks and connections become the most likely suspects. So, I'd check all the connections between hotend and control board, even undoing and reconnecting. If you have a logging voltmeter, you could try that to see if the heater voltage changes when it shouldn't. If you have an oscilloscope, see the input pulses into the MOSFET to see if changes happen at the same time you see something weird with temperatures. MOSFETs can fail in peculiar ways, so consider replacement - it's not the cost of the MOSFET that's the issue; it's all the fiddling around to actually do it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user19977" LastActivityDate="2020-02-01T07:08:55.693" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11937" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-02-01T19:19:55.517" Score="2" ViewCount="3459" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have finally sorted the problems out with the frozen screen, but inevitably there's always more to take there place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have installed the latest version of the 'Tiny Machines' Firmware but on trying to do a 'Level' on the bed the nozzle/BLTouch sensor moves to the front left corner and tries to take a 'level' reading whilst the BLTouch sensor is 20&amp;nbsp;mm off the build surface, so the nozzles hits the build surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can anyone point me in the right direction to where the settings are to correct this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have an E3D v6 HotEnd and to the left of that is the BLTouch Sensor (60&amp;nbsp;mm to the left and 6&amp;nbsp;mm forward).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19993" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-02-02T07:44:08.730" LastActivityDate="2021-07-27T01:04:45.377" Title="BLTouch missing build plate on levelling" Tags="|creality-cr-10|bltouch|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11938" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11937" CreationDate="2020-02-02T08:01:16.183" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Tiny Machines firmware is based on Marlin firmware. Note that I personally am more comfortable using the original sources than a fork or copy from another derivative source. Using a derivative means that you will have to wait a second development commitment to post new features and bug fixes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A similar reasoning is applicable using premade hex files opposed to compiling the sources yourself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are 2 things (related to the bed X, Y positioning) you need to be aware of when using a Z probe. When using the probe you must ensure that the probe deploys on the bed during probing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, define in your firmware that the probe can only deploy in the center of the build plate. In e.g. Marlin firmware this is described in the configuration.h; you need to enable &lt;code&gt;Z_SAFE_HOMING&lt;/code&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&#xA;// Use &quot;Z Safe Homing&quot; to avoid homing with a Z probe outside the bed area.&#xA;//&#xA;#define Z_SAFE_HOMING&#xA;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second, you need to define a confined bed area for the sensor to deploy, this is described in question: &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;/q/8153&quot;&gt;How to set Z-probe boundary limits in firmware when using automatic bed leveling?&lt;/a&gt;&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that flashing an existing firmware does not guarantee anything, the used firmware from Tiny Machines (or e.g. from TH3D) try to simplify the firmware configuration for you by adding additional specific settings/constants (&lt;code&gt;#defines&lt;/code&gt;), underneath the waterline all sorts of things are then handled for you. Personally I'd like to be in control and do the modifications myself. If the probe position you use is different from the probe position used in the pre-build firmware you will not be able to use this firmware safely. We can check this: e.g. in the Tiny Machines firmware there are 3 predefined positions for the sensor, in the sources itself none is active (see below), so it is not known which option is used for compiling the hex files they made available:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&#xA;//#define CREALITY_ABL_MOUNT //Using creality ABL mount&#xA;//#define E3D_DUALFAN_MOUNT // Using HD Modular mount as above with 2 5015 blowers and sensor on the right&#xA;//#define E3D_PROBEMOUNT_LEFT // Default is probe mounted to the right for E3D. Set this to invert.&#xA;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you define one of these options above, the probe position can be read from:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&#xA;   #if (ANY(ABL_BLTOUCH, ABL_EZABL,ABL_NCSW) &amp;&amp; ANY(HotendE3D, HotendMosquito))&#xA;    #if ENABLED(E3D_DUALFAN_MOUNT)&#xA;      #if ENABLED(E3D_PROBEMOUNT_LEFT)&#xA;        #define NOZZLE_TO_PROBE_OFFSET { -63, 5, 0 }&#xA;      #else&#xA;        #define NOZZLE_TO_PROBE_OFFSET { 63, 5, 0 }&#xA;      #endif&#xA;    #else&#xA;      #define NOZZLE_TO_PROBE_OFFSET { 32, 5, 0 }&#xA;    #endif&#xA;   #endif&#xA;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will see that the &lt;code&gt;E3D_PROBEMOUNT_LEFT&lt;/code&gt; and &lt;code&gt;E3D_DUALFAN_MOUNT&lt;/code&gt; need to be active (you see that &lt;code&gt;E3D_PROBEMOUNT_LEFT&lt;/code&gt; is embedded in the &lt;code&gt;E3D_DUALFAN_MOUNT&lt;/code&gt; option, this cannot be correct...) to get a probe offset of (-63, +5) which is close to your probe (60 mm to the left and 6 mm forward translates to (-60, +6)). This is exactly why I use the Marlin firmware from the main source code, not a simplified derivative (which in this case is not accurate and unknown what options are used in the pre-build hex files).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please note that the original Marlin sources also maintain configuration files for many printer types, e.g. the CR-10S is also listed in &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Configurations/tree/master/config/examples/Creality&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this overview&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-03-03T21:51:07.777" LastActivityDate="2020-03-03T21:51:07.777" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11939" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4699" CreationDate="2020-02-02T10:30:20.197" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know this might be a bit late, but I have been facing very similar issues with my printer (Anycubic Kossel Linear Plus).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my case, I have managed to solve this problem by reducing retraction speed and retraction and extrusion max accelerations (if you are using Marlin, go to &lt;code&gt;Control&lt;/code&gt; -&gt; &lt;code&gt;Motion&lt;/code&gt; and scroll down to &lt;code&gt;A-max extruder&lt;/code&gt; and &lt;code&gt;A-max rectract&lt;/code&gt;). I went down from 1800 to 1200 for extrusion and from 1400 to 1000 for retraction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, I have played a bit with the stepstick, allowing a bit more of current for the extruder motor (normal XYZ are have a Vref~0.7 and the extruder it's set to 0.9). My understanding of the issue, is that the stepper motor cannot cope with the torque it is asked to deliver at sudden changes (high accelerations) and simply gets blocked until the acceleration is reduced. This can be due as well by too much friction (low printing temperature, clogged nozzle,... but it was not my case). &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.pololu.com/product/1182&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Here&lt;/a&gt; there is a lot of information about the drivers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19997" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-02-02T12:22:18.130" LastActivityDate="2020-02-02T12:22:18.130" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11940" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11191" CreationDate="2020-02-02T19:49:10.693" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This has nothing to do with speed, temperature, adhesion, and whatever you do, &lt;strong&gt;DO NOT&lt;/strong&gt; extrude more material per line (increase flow rate), as this will make the problem that much worse.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a fairly simple problem with an even simpler fix: you're over extruding.  Reduce your flow rate by 5%, and see if that fixes the issue.  It will definitely improve it, but you might need to lower your flow rate a little bit more.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What can often happen when your flow rate is set too high is the extra plastic will concentrate at areas of relatively high acceleration (corners and the start/stop spot for a perimeter of a given layer), but depending on the size of the thing being printed and the degree of overextrusion, it won't concentrate at every spot like this on a perimeter. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Usually, I see this happen where the perimeter moves start and stop each time, which (again, depends on the slicer and settings) tend to be the same spot for certain models, often a corner.  I couldn't say for certain the exact mechanism, except that it seems like the plastic, given the right conditions, prefers to lay down evenly while the excess over extruded plastic builds up (probably carried by the nozzle, since it is hot and the plastic will want to stick to it) until too much has built up for the nozzle adhesion to keep it from sticking to the print, or the nozzle begins to decelerate (late at a corner or the end of a print move), causing the extra plastic to 'scrunch' up, like something that shoved in a distance too short for it.  Knowing this, if you examine the corners, it should be quite obvious that this is what is happening.  The perimeter is being extruded with more plastic than it should be, and the extra has a tendency to collect all in one spot each time.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sometimes it is one corner, sometimes it is every corner, sometimes it is corners that are maximally distant from each other (since it takes some time for enough excess plastic to build up to over power whatever effects are preventing it from adhering immediately.  So in this case, the two good corners were just where not enough excess plastic had built up yet at the nozzle to cause problems).  Another possible explanation is that those two corners are simply where the perimeters were started and stopped, but some layers it was one corner, and other layers the other corner.  But you can see over extrusion artifacts lower down on the feet (or whatever they are), and your first layer as well.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Do not increase flow rate.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Do not increase infill.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Do not lower your speed.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Do not increase your temperature.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;None of those will help, and increasing flow rate further could cause the nozzle to catch on the print, potentially damaging your hotend.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just reduce your flow rate by 5%.  You should see an immediate improvement, or even elimination of the issue.  If it is still there, then reduce your flow rate a percent or two until it does go away.  And remember this number, because you'll probably want to use that flow rate in general for your printer.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10295" LastActivityDate="2020-02-02T19:49:10.693" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11941" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11548" CreationDate="2020-02-02T20:21:11.527" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Periodic temperature irregularities, such as cycling between a higher temperature and lower temperature slowly enough that it spends at least a layer or two at a different temperature than other layers has a tendency to be mistaken for z wobble.  You can actually intentionally modulate print temperature (at least of PLA) every few layers to great a sort of banding or 'wood grain' effect.  Higher temperature, for whatever reason, results in thicker perimeters and cooler temperatures thinner ones.  This is when always staying above the normal PLA print temperature though.  The temperatures in the graph would certainly cause serious under extrusion during the times it was under temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Understand though, it is likely that temperature has been behind the underextrusion, rather than it being a problem in of itself.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It isn't possible for the temperature to jump around too quickly to get a good reading.  The temperature changes relatively slowly, simply due to the thermal mass of the heat block.  It takes a little bit for the extruder to come up to temperature, right?  When warming up from room temperature, watch how fast the temperature changes. That's the fastest the temperature can change, because that is when the heater cartridge is on at full blast.  And even then, it isn't particularly quick.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It also does not appear to be a problem with the thermistor.  If there was a poor or failing connection (like a wire that was almost broken), this would cause added resistance to the thermistor reading, and thermistors usually lose resistance as they heat up.  So extra resistance throwing off the reading would make the printer believe that the hotend was cooler than it actually was, and you would wind up printing at a too high of a temperature.  This would cause a number of problems, but your interlayer adhesion would be &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;excellent&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;.  Delimitation would not be one of the issues, nor would underextrusion.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thermal runaway protection is kind of a misnomer, because it is really 'something about the temperature of something isn't behaving like it should' protection.  Basically all it is is a hard coded temperature and time window.  If it has turned on the heater, there is a hard coded number of degrees that the thermistor must increase by within a certain time window, usually 30 seconds to a couple of minutes.  If it doesn't, something is wrong.  Or, if it drops out of the intended temperature by another hard coded number of degrees for a certain amount of time, then again the thermal runaway protection will be triggered.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In cases where the connection to the thermistor is failing, this will prevent the hotend from being heated without any limit (poor thermistor connection means the temperature the printer reads is always much much lower than what it really is, so the printer keeps trying to heat the hotend up hotter).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But thermal runaway protection will also get triggered for much more benign problems, like a failing connection to the heater cartridge.  If the thermistor is working fine, but the cartridge is not working correctly and either only heats intermittently, or has a poor connection and can't get enough current through it, this will also result in the temperature not going up as expected, thus triggering the thermal runaway protection.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Based on your symptoms, the thermistor reading looks to be quite accurate.  What you describe is exactly what I'd expect would happen for a print where the temperature of the hotend really did vary exactly as shown in your graph.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What can often happen is one of the leads (especially close to the cartridge but really, it could happen anywhere along the length of the two leads) will have broken from repeated wire strain (if you have disassembled your hot end at all or otherwise disturbed the heater wires in anyway, this is more than enough to cause a lot of metal fatigue), but the insulation around the broken wire will hold it together such that wire will still be making contact with itself.  But it will be a more resistive connection, and will cycle between an acceptable and poor connection as the print head position moves.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Long story short, you get a temperature graph that looks just like that, because the heater cartridge is periodically either developing a poor connection, or losing its connection entirely, only to regain it again as things move just the right way again.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would double check all your connections to the cartridge, checking the actual resistance and not just using a continuity tester.  If those seem ok, then you will probably just need to buy a replacement cartridge.  I like to keep a few of them on hand since they have a tendency for their wires to break just from a little bit of normal manhandling.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10295" LastActivityDate="2020-02-02T20:21:11.527" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11942" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11492" CreationDate="2020-02-02T20:42:06.260" Score="1" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Infill has minimal effect on the strength of printed parts, so I would expect the part to break in the same spot regardless of what infill percentage you used.  &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;PLA is especially poor in this exact application, and it undergoes significant creep/cold flow under mechanical compression over time, so even if achieved the necessary strength by changing settings (which you can), it would require that you periodically tighten the bolts more and more, as the PLA would slowly deform under the mounting pressure.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Perimeter width and number of perimeters are what primarily influence the strength of a printed object, infill has very little impact on strength in comparison, and unless you're using an exotic pattern like gyroid, what impact it does have is not even close to isotropic (will add strength in some directions while doing nothing in others).  But even then, infill only really has an effect when we are talking about forces that are spread evenly over the entire object, not concentrated strength of a specific spot of the part.  And that effect is always much weaker than what perimeter count or width will have.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just &lt;strong&gt;bump up your perimeters to 4&lt;/strong&gt; or even more and that should make a huge difference.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And also, don't use PLA.  &lt;strong&gt;I think PETG is a much better choice in this situation.&lt;/strong&gt;  It is more ductile only slightly less rigid than PLA, making it much more durable overall than PLA, and less prone to cracking under compressive forces.  PLA theoretically has higher tensile strength, but that often doesn't mean much.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would not recommend ABS, it tends to have similar issues with brittleness and is one of the weaker materials one can 3D print.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It terms of ordering a special high strength polymer.... unless printer and hotend is rated for in excess of 400°C, no such 'high strength polymer' exists, at least not that you can print.  PLA and PETG are close to the best you can get, with Polycarbonate inching out ahead but not by a huge amount (~20%).  Despite what filament companies would like you to believe, carbon fiber &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;reduces&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; the strength of PLA, ABS, PETG, PC, and probably nylon, and instead simply makes those polymers more rigid and increases dimensional stability.  The only filaments that would actually be made stronger with added fibers short enough for filament manufacturing processes are ones with glass fiber.  But you don't want to print those filaments, trust me.  They will dull the teeth on your hobbed gear(s), even if made from steel, and will just ruin all but ruby nozzles very very quickly.  And they &lt;strong&gt;still wear out ruby nozzles&lt;/strong&gt; even then.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are exotic polymers, but none of them print at less than ~350°C, and are generally exceedingly expensive.  All the polymers that can be used at normal printing temperatures are all fairly similar to each other in terms of tensile strength at least.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10295" LastActivityDate="2020-02-02T20:42:06.260" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11944" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11492" CreationDate="2020-02-03T03:27:41.180" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;For your particular application, you should be able to get something acceptably strong with PLA as long as you design it right - both the model itself, and the way you slice it (orientation, number of walls, etc.). metacollin's answer covers this pretty thoroughly. Using PETG could be an improvement, if you're willing to spend time learning how to print it right (if done wrong it's super-brittle).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, as towe suggested in a comment, I'd give TPU a try. When printed with many walls or with high infill rate, TPU can be fairly rigid, and there's no way you're going to damage it with a bolt unless you just keep going after it's already tight. It's a relatively easy material to work with, and pretty much any printer that can print PLA can print TPU (although you may have to slow it down quite a bit) so it meets your requirement of being accessible to others with the same speaker.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Note to self and others: it'd be a neat experiment to take a torque wrench to a bolt with metal washers through a solid brick of TPU and see how much it can take before it fails, and how it fails when it does.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2020-02-03T03:27:41.180" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11945" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11932" CreationDate="2020-02-03T08:28:01.333" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Despite the picture being a bit small and blurry, it is quite obvious that something is off. A better picture might help closing in on the problem with more precision.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From what I can see it could be wrong extrusion settings. I'm making a wild guess based on personal experience that the printer is over extruding way too much. I had similar looking parts a few years back after a firmware update. I simply forgot to update the steps/mm for the extruder. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any recent firmware or hardware updates? &#xA;From your explanation I understand you changed the drivers. Maybe an issue based on microstepping? (The corner looks like the nozzle was realy in the material while printing.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19305" LastActivityDate="2020-02-03T08:28:01.333" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11946" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11948" CreationDate="2020-02-03T11:28:02.260" Score="5" ViewCount="1650" Body="&lt;p&gt;Lately I noticed that there is a new type of nozzles (called airbrush nozzles?!?) available; typically found on those online overseas vendor sites. The nozzles are advertised for usage in E3D hardware, but are not found amongst the &lt;a href=&quot;https://e3d-online.com/nozzles-for-3d-printer&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;E3D genuine nozzles&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These nozzles look like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OH4O2.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OH4O2.png&quot; alt=&quot;Airbrush nozzle&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are the basic physics principles or what is the engineering relevance for application of airbrush nozzles? (Gimmick or actual product improvement?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2020-02-04T16:23:44.097" Title="Is there an engineering/physics foundation for application of airbrush nozzles?" Tags="|nozzle|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11947" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11946" CreationDate="2020-02-03T13:05:45.843" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;They are used for nonplaner 3d printing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/gmePlcU0TRw?start=0&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://all3dp.com/4/nonplanar-3d-printing-gives-the-smoothest-top-layers/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://all3dp.com/4/nonplanar-3d-printing-gives-the-smoothest-top-layers/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The gist of it is, that You can achieve smoother, curvy top layers that are more true to form, buy using a nozzle like the one you mentioned. Also, they can be used to print multiple objects at the same time, where is faster to print 10 to 20 layers of one object then switch to the next object on the build plate, rather than having to print each layer of each object sequentially. This reduces build time, stringing, voids and the potential knocking off the part by the nozzle (as it moves to print the next object, since that object may have shrunk/expanded since the nozzle last visited it).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12857" LastActivityDate="2020-02-03T13:05:45.843" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11948" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11946" CreationDate="2020-02-03T17:21:36.377" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;An obvious drawback is the lack of a flat surface around the opening, resulting in a severe limitation of the extrusion width to exactly the nozzle width (plus some percent). This nozzle cannot efficiently push the filament against the nearby perimeters because it cannot constrain its height and it cannot flatten the top of the already extruded one. So layer adhesion may not be a big problem, but perimeter-to-perimeter likely is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, the thinner wall and extended length will reduce the filament temperature, however I don't know whether a simple compensation would do, since cooling will depend on filament speed and travel speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regarding the cooling, you can check also the original designer's &lt;a href=&quot;https://well-engineered.net/index.php/en/46-small-smaller-airbrush-nozzle&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;goal&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A big problem with small. hot and slow prints is the heat radiation of&#xA;  the hotend and nozzle itself. To get as little as possible heat into&#xA;  the print, the nozzle needs to be as long and pointy as possible. The&#xA;  longer the nozzle, the bigger the distance between heater block and the&#xA;  print. And the more pointy it is, the less heat radiation can affect&#xA;  the print. A nice side benefit: the cooling fan can blow better onto&#xA;  the print and &quot;around&quot; the nozzle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2338" LastEditorUserId="2338" LastEditDate="2020-02-04T16:23:44.097" LastActivityDate="2020-02-04T16:23:44.097" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11949" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11846" CreationDate="2020-02-03T22:11:21.130" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;AnyCubic Support suggested I swap two of the motor drivers (X and Y) and after I did that, the problem disappeared.  I've had a half dozen good prints in a row now, no problems at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The drivers are inside the computer module - had to flip over the printer, take off the cover and pry out the top two modules and put them back in swapped.  Not difficult, but probably worth getting advice from AnyCubic before going ahead and doing it yourself unless you're comfortable with this sort of thing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19907" LastActivityDate="2020-02-03T22:11:21.130" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11950" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6447" CreationDate="2020-02-03T22:23:58.710" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found Dave G's answer to be helpful, however I could only use additive features (e.g. Pad) on the created object, and could not make subtractive features &lt;em&gt;into&lt;/em&gt; the object (e.g. Pocket).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's what worked for me using FreeCAD 0.19 (Instructions from &lt;a href=&quot;http://pinter.org/archives/4255&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this site&lt;/a&gt;):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Create new document&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Import STL (File --&gt; Import)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Part workbench --&gt; Create shape from mesh&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Part workbench --&gt; Shape builder...&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Create shape, select &quot;Solid from shell&quot;. Make sure &quot;Refine shape&quot; box is checked. Press &quot;Create&quot; button. (You may need to switch to the &quot;Model&quot; tab in the Combo View and select your shape object.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Change to the PartDesign workbench. Select the newly-created &quot;Solid&quot; in the Combo/Tree View, then select PartDesign --&gt; &quot;Create body&quot;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A new Body will be created with your Solid as a BaseFeature that can work with Pad &lt;em&gt;and&lt;/em&gt; Pocket features.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20007" LastEditorUserId="20007" LastEditDate="2020-02-03T22:57:30.617" LastActivityDate="2020-02-03T22:57:30.617" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11951" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11959" CreationDate="2020-02-05T03:33:12.253" Score="1" ViewCount="62" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just started 3D printing a few weeks ago, so I'm still trying to get a handle on the tricks. I printed something with a flat surface and a few raised pieces (shown below). I'm pretty happy with the surface quality overall; however, in the locations where the print head came back for it's second pass the quality is worse. Is there any way to fix this? I'm assuming it's a slicer issue...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using Ultimaker Cura 4.4 &amp;amp; Ender 3 Pro&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Mx5Kq.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Mx5Kq.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19739" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-02-05T13:04:07.050" LastActivityDate="2020-02-05T18:19:36.530" Title="Poor surface quality when sweep interrupted" Tags="|print-quality|ultimaker-cura|creality-ender-3|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11953" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11955" CreationDate="2020-02-05T11:40:25.890" Score="5" ViewCount="3665" Body="&lt;p&gt;In analogy to: &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/q/6723/4762&quot;&gt;What glues for bonding printed PLA to injection-molded plastic?&lt;/a&gt;, what are the best glues to use for PETG?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I mostly print in PETG and have occasional failed prints which I usually reprint. But what if I'd like to repair a print e.g. a split between layers or a part broken off?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Knowing that PETG is more &amp;quot;greasy&amp;quot; than PLA, what typical glues can you use to create a good bond; this question excludes using heat to (re-)bond.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2021-11-14T16:22:25.093" LastActivityDate="2021-11-14T16:22:25.093" Title="What glues to use for PETG?" Tags="|post-processing|petg|glue|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11954" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-02-05T14:37:21.753" Score="0" ViewCount="187" Body="&lt;p&gt;my task is to create a watertight surface out of a point-cloud (It's the model of a dam).&#xA;For this I'm using MeshLab.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First thing I did was importing the .ply-file into Meshlab and normalize it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This looked like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/o0lSF.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/o0lSF.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So far so good. For Remeshing and creating the surface I wanted to use Poisson Surface Reconstruction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried different parameters but this is my best result:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jfDb9.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jfDb9.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you can see it creates some weird bubbles in the lower right part of the model.&#xA;And I can't figure out why this happens when the rest of my model gets modeled in the way I want it to be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for your help!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20026" LastActivityDate="2020-03-08T14:03:35.543" Title="Meshlab creates weird bubbles when using poisson surface reconstruction" Tags="|3d-models|surface|meshmixer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11955" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11953" CreationDate="2020-02-05T16:15:49.880" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;From  &lt;a href=&quot;https://forum.simplify3d.com/viewtopic.php?t=9281&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;forum&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Bison plastic - works great for me, only it's not &quot;quick dry&quot; but it's very strong, not brittle, holds PETG and PLA very strongly. &#xA;  Buy paint stripper that is/contains methylene chloride (dichloromethane). It will solvent weld both PLA and PETG.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or see  &lt;a href=&quot;https://all3dp.com/2/best-glue-for-plastic-pla-abs-petg-nylon/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;other forum&lt;/a&gt;  which recommends Eastman-910 (original brand of cyanoacrylate) or any equivalent, polyurethane glue, or even epoxy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2191" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-02-05T16:29:14.717" LastActivityDate="2020-02-05T16:29:14.717" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11956" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11962" CreationDate="2020-02-05T16:37:30.527" Score="4" ViewCount="372" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am developing an &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/Stypox/image-to-gcode&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;image to gcode program&lt;/a&gt;, that would recognize edges and generate corresponding G-code to be sent to a plotter. I was able to detect edges using the &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sobel_operator&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Sobel operator&lt;/a&gt;; then the edges are converted to an &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Graph&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;undirected graph&lt;/a&gt; using a search heuristic of my creation. Converting a graph to functional gcode is not difficult: &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Depth-first_search&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;depth first search&lt;/a&gt; does the job. The issue is that using this method the generated paths for the plotter are far from optimal, since they contain many movements that could be removed or shortened just by printing paths in a different order. This can be seen clearly in the images below.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there an &lt;strong&gt;algorithm that can convert an undirected graph to optimal G-code paths&lt;/strong&gt;? Otherwise, if there are none or the problem is NP complete, what heuristics can be used to generate almost-optimal gcode (e.g. the ones used in programs such as Inkscape)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The graph on the left is converted to the gcode on the right using depth first search on the connected component of the graph. The white and red lines represent, respectively, the visible writes and the invisible movements of the plotter. The G-code can be found &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/Stypox/image-to-gcode/blob/master/graph.nc&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iWVqxm.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iWVqxm.png&quot; alt=&quot;An example undirected graph, rendered by graphviz&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qLFq3m.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qLFq3m.png&quot; alt=&quot;The corresponding gcode, rendered by https://nraynaud.github.io/webgcode/&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20028" LastEditorUserId="20028" LastEditDate="2020-02-05T19:06:16.080" LastActivityDate="2020-02-06T07:11:45.803" Title="Converting an undirected graph to optimal G-code paths" Tags="|g-code|file-formats|algorithm|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11957" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-02-05T17:10:59.017" Score="4" ViewCount="5116" Body="&lt;p&gt;My RAMPS 1.4 board has failed. I bought a RAMPS 1.6 to replace it but :&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The old board had 4 power wires that went to 5&amp;nbsp;A and 11&amp;nbsp;A respectively. The RAMPS 1.6 has only 1 pair of power inputs. Which pair from the PSU do I connect to the board? Or do I combine them and connect them to their polarity respectively?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I have a cooling fan (12&amp;nbsp;V) for part cooling. In RAMPS 1.4, I had it connected to the pins between the power inputs and the X stepper driver on the board. The RAMPS 1.6 doesn't have such a pair of pins. Is it possible to connect it somewhere else on the 1.6 board?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20029" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-02-05T22:35:55.883" LastActivityDate="2020-11-02T09:04:45.510" Title="How to connect power and fan to RAMPS 1.6?" Tags="|ramps-1.6|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11958" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11956" CreationDate="2020-02-05T17:13:17.423" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you can save your plot as a dxf, you can use Repetrel to generate gcode with our &quot;find nearest neighbor&quot; optimizing. You can download it from &lt;a href=&quot;http://hyrel3d.net&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://hyrel3d.net&lt;/a&gt; - the full install instructions start at &lt;a href=&quot;http://hyrel3d.net/wiki/index.php/Installation_Overview&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://hyrel3d.net/wiki/index.php/Installation_Overview&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See the process in this video: &lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/YRsyEGHyt3k?start=0&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Disclaimer: I work for Hyrel 3D. Licensing only required on the actual printer, not the software install.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: This will generate gcode paths, but every printing move will have an E value of 1, so it's fine for lasering or ink-jetting, or running with the Hyrel native E calculations, but probably not useful for other 3d printers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4922" LastEditorUserId="4922" LastEditDate="2020-02-05T21:46:54.533" LastActivityDate="2020-02-05T21:46:54.533" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11959" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11951" CreationDate="2020-02-05T17:26:10.123" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It looks to me like you have underextrusion in these regions probably due to loss (oozing) of material during travel moves prior to printing them. Aside from small gaps in the surface sweep at the part you're talking about, I see a long slightly-diagonal light-gray line between the middle of the right and the middle of the bottom of your image, which appears to be material that oozed during combing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Make sure you have retraction enabled, have sufficient retraction (at least 6 mm for bowden; somewhat less for direct-drive) and either disable combining or set max combing distance very small (like 1.5x nozzle width) and see if this helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastEditorUserId="11157" LastEditDate="2020-02-05T18:19:36.530" LastActivityDate="2020-02-05T18:19:36.530" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11960" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11953" CreationDate="2020-02-05T17:50:36.560" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If Carl's answer that cyanoacrylate glue works is accurate, I would suggest Loctite 420 or equivalent. It's diluted with solvents sufficiently to behave as a liquid rather than a gel, and in my experience on PLA it not only bonds the joint, but wicks between the extrusions and bonds walls/layers together much more strongly and waterproofs the part. As long as it bonds to PETG it should do the same for PETG.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2020-02-05T17:50:36.560" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11961" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11957" CreationDate="2020-02-05T22:25:31.277" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You only need to connect one pair (one red, one black) of sufficient wire gauge to the single power connector's plus (red) and minus (black). There is no need to bundle multiple pairs from the PSU. Some pinout graphs are not clear in this respect! I've always connected the heated bed through an external MOSFET to keep large currents away from the board, but according to the design, it is capable of handling the current.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;E.g. this is the &lt;strong&gt;correct pinout&lt;/strong&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8eASc.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8eASc.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And this an &lt;strong&gt;incorrect pinout&lt;/strong&gt; graph (look at the lower left where the power needs to be connected to the board, this hints to bundling the 11&amp;nbsp;A and 5&amp;nbsp;A wiring):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hvqfF.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hvqfF.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The part cooling fan should preferably not be connected to a (non-schedulable) 12&amp;nbsp;V header. Instead you should use the &lt;code&gt;D9&lt;/code&gt; output connector to schedule the airflow of the fan for part cooling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note there is no spare 12&amp;nbsp;V header available on the board. You could use the spare PSU pair to power the coldend (radiator) fan.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-02-06T07:28:30.940" LastActivityDate="2020-02-06T07:28:30.940" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11962" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11956" CreationDate="2020-02-06T02:06:01.380" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Quote of comment of &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11956/converting-an-undirected-graph-to-optimal-g-code-paths#comment21885_11956&quot;&gt;R.. GitHub STOP HELPING ICE&lt;/a&gt; on question reads: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Pretty sure it is NP-complete (equivalent to travelling salesman problem), no? –  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is correct; this is route optimization at its purest, and is by no means a new problem. You want to travel the shortest total distance between all vertices of what's essentially a totally-interconnected graph; there are no inherent limitations on going from anywhere, to anywhere. The TSP is the general-case statement of this problem, which your problem specializes only slightly by predefining certain movements along edges as being required in the final path (but those edges can be traversed in either direction and in any order.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What makes this complex on its face is the sheer number of possibilities that an exhaustive solution to the TSP like Held-Karp has to evaluate. You have no real constraints regarding which points to travel between; you can go from anywhere, to anywhere. Only a relatively small number of edges (your extrusion lines) are known requisites, and those can theoretically be traced in any order.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I'm reading your graph right, you start near the top center, then go to the top left, then to the s-curve, then you jump to the main shape and start traversing it from the &quot;right arm&quot;, turning downward through the &quot;body&quot; and &quot;left foot&quot; of the central shape, then up to the &quot;right hip&quot;, through that leg to the foot, then back up to the &quot;left shoulder&quot;, through that &quot;arm&quot;, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I have that right, then you definitely have &quot;endpoint detection&quot;, where you are identifying points in the graph that are part of only one line segment (and therefore will require a travel move to get to or from them), and are planning travel moves to and from those points. Very smart. I would be interested in knowing exactly how you choose the next one to travel to. Obviously the closest endpoint of an undrawn line is a natural choice, but your algorithm doesn't seem to be doing that. Right from the off it chooses a relatively further point to extrude and then comes back to the rest of the shape. That actually seems to be the most efficient move in the overall graph, because if you don't get it early you will very likely make a big move to get back to it later, but making that decision in a non-exhaustive way doesn't seem intuitive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway, your algorithm was doing pretty well at path choice, up until it finished drawing the &quot;right leg&quot;. The most efficient move from there would be to go to the bottom of the &quot;Y&quot; looking shape to the right of the main figure and trace through that. When that's done, the closest undrawn line segment will be back at the left shoulder of the main figure, which will lead you to the small dots, and you'll end in this region with relatively small travel moves. Overall, I think that a &quot;closest remaining endpoint&quot; strategy would be near-optimal at every turn; when you reach the end of a drawn line, look for the endpoint that is closest to your current location. It would make most of the decisions your existing algorithm does, and a few better ones. It's not &lt;em&gt;always&lt;/em&gt; the best choice (case in point, the dot at the upper left, which is never closest to the end of any other move and so will be ignored until it's the last one left) but more often than not it is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My programmer savvy says you also have some recursive intersection tracing (&quot;tree-walking&quot;); the algorithm sees that there are multiple paths to draw from a single point, remembers that point and then picks a path. When it reaches an end of a chain of extruded lines, it goes back to the most recently-encountered intersection, re-evaluates available paths, and picks the next one until all paths from that intersection are drawn. Then you skip back to the previous intersection, and so on in a recursive LIFO fashion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While that's also generally a smart way to approach it, it makes a couple obviously inefficient moves, such as from the &quot;right foot&quot; of the main figure back to the &quot;shoulder&quot; (which is the most recent intersection visited but not fully drawn by that point). The more efficient move is simply the closest remaining endpoint, the bottom of the wonky-looking Y to the right of the main figure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How you choose intersection paths to prioritize is also key. In general, taking the route that will lead you to the closest intersection or endpoint will reduce the possible backtracking you have to do. However your algorithm seems to prefer the longest path from a fork (or the one with the most forks along it) and that turns out not to be a terrible way to do it in this particular graph.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, having drawn the &quot;left arm&quot; of the main figure, it is totally beyond me why your algorithm chose to cross the graph to draw the wonky Y, then cross back over to the left side. That is by far the least efficient move it makes and the one you're probably pointing to yourself. The most efficient path from the end of the left arm of the main figure given what's left to draw is straight-up closest-endpoint, filling in dots and lines on the left side, then making one move across the graph to the wonky Y. Closest-endpoint would actually have already filled in that Y as covered earlier, and you'd end your graph traversal in the left region of dots and small lines. You may have one or maybe two relatively inefficient moves between corners of this region on the left of the graph depending on the closest point calculation, but those are minor compared to the moves made across the graph. If your algorithm is producing deterministic results for this graph, I'd debug it and step through to that point, and figure out why on Earth it thought that sequence was preferable. Optimizing that decision may very well be the key to a near-optimal overall graph-walking strategy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19313" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-02-06T07:11:45.803" LastActivityDate="2020-02-06T07:11:45.803" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11963" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-02-06T07:07:32.430" Score="6" ViewCount="18774" Body="&lt;p&gt;All of a sudden I seem to be having a lot of issues with under extruding on my Ender 3. The bottom layer (of height 0.1&amp;nbsp;mm) prints perfectly fine. This is done at 15&amp;nbsp;mm/s speed. However, The moment the print moves to layer 2 and above (at the default speed of 60&amp;nbsp;mm/s), I start hearing a lot of clicking noise on the extruder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So far I have tried the following&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Replace nozzle to eliminate clogs&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cleaned the inside of the hot end assembly&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Calibrated extruder steps/mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Reduced the layer height from 0.3&amp;nbsp;mm to 0.2&amp;nbsp;mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Reduced feed rate to as low at 50&amp;nbsp;%&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cleaned the filament feeder assembly and verified that it is able to push the filament properly (Extruding when the print is not happening works just fine with no clicking)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even with all the above, the issue is still persisting. I am not what else could be causing this. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am printing with PLA at 200 C&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14924" LastEditorUserId="14924" LastEditDate="2020-02-07T14:10:18.967" LastActivityDate="2021-05-12T09:34:38.223" Title="Ender 3 Extruder First Layer Perfect But Then Starts Clicking Afterwards" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|extruder|creality-ender-3|extrusion|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11964" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-02-06T14:44:38.407" Score="2" ViewCount="256" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2-pin 40 mm axial fan as part cooling fan. I don't post a link because I would like a general answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It runs on 12 V and when I start it at less than 40% it doesn't start. Even if I start at 100% and then I reduce the speed, at about 30% it stops.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I read reviews online, I see people use fan speeds down to 10%, which no fan I have ever used can achieve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I pick and connect a correct fan for part cooling, so that I can freely set the speed down to 10%?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2338" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2020-02-08T01:43:14.487" LastActivityDate="2020-02-08T01:43:14.487" Title="How to find correct part cooling fans?" Tags="|cooling|replacement-parts|print-fan|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11965" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11964" CreationDate="2020-02-06T16:12:42.573" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the fan you are using is not defective and if you test another fan that behaves in a similar manner, it's possible your firmware or hardware are the root cause of the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The controller directs the driver to vary the power provided to the fan. It's a method called pulse wave modulation, aka PWM. Full voltage is applied to the fan one hundred percent of the time, for full speed operation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For fifty percent performance, half of the time full voltage is sent, while half of the time no voltage is sent. The time period is rather short, but I didn't determine that aspect of this answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One can find a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.ekwb.com/blog/what-is-pwm-and-how-does-it-work/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;clear explanation of PWM online&lt;/a&gt; but one word is worth one one-thousandth of a picture:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gF1Fk.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gF1Fk.png&quot; alt=&quot;pwm graph&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your fans are not performing properly, either the program embedded into the controller is buggy, or the driver module for that unit is bugging out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastActivityDate="2020-02-06T16:12:42.573" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11966" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11932" CreationDate="2020-02-06T19:18:49.863" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It looks to me like you might be over-extruding.  Have you calibrated the extruder?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How-To:  &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X3A9Ir2SreI&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;MatterHackers Extruder Calibration Video&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More Info:  &lt;a href=&quot;https://all3dp.com/2/over-extrusion-3d-printing-tips-and-tricks-to-solve-it/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;all3Dp Over-Extrusion Page&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14482" LastActivityDate="2020-02-06T19:18:49.863" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11967" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12005" CreationDate="2020-02-06T19:45:33.203" Score="4" ViewCount="1308" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm printing with opaque grey PETG on glass. The intention is to produce a house number plate, so a shiny, production quality finish on the bottom. For this reason, extruding at 245&amp;nbsp;°C with a bed at 95&amp;nbsp;°C, to give a perfect glass finish with no filament lines showing. Smaller test versions have been very promising; this seems to be the maximum temperatures before warping or a severe elephant's foot arises.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However when printing the full-scale version, areas of the first layer of filament seem to go completely &quot;transparent&quot;; there seems to be filament there - you can feel the filament &quot;comb&quot; when you run your finger over it, and it feels a similar thickness to its neighbours.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the attached photo you might think that those gaps are simply not printed yet, however you can see on the top right corner that it's actually started on the next layer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JYOVA.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JYOVA.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;print&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What could be causing this? Is it a blockage which is interrupting flow, and maybe insufficient filament is being &quot;stretched out&quot;? Or maybe it could be something to do with temperature? Could it be insufficient layer height (I'm using 0.2&amp;nbsp;mm, but 0.24&amp;nbsp;mm on first layer, increasing further reveals filament lines, but tested higher and lower on smaller scale with success).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've tested a range of extrude and temperatures and chosen the temps with the best results; but when I &quot;go large&quot; this always seems to happen. I've also calibrated the bed height using the 3 point adjustment screws on this printer (Qidi X-Plus). (The transparent areas are actually occuring in the center where the smaller test prints where working perfectly, so don't know how it could be to do with this). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19946" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-02-07T07:24:30.343" LastActivityDate="2020-02-17T15:07:09.737" Title="Why could my opaque PETG be printing &quot;transparent&quot; in certain places?" Tags="|print-quality|petg|glass-bed|qidi-tech-x-plus|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11968" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11970" CreationDate="2020-02-07T00:05:10.707" Score="5" ViewCount="5848" Body="&lt;p&gt;The e3D volcano features an extended heater block of length 20&amp;nbsp;mm with the cartridge heater running parallel to the filament.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The purpose of this is to increase the speeds at which filament can be printed (of course the extruder and other factors may still be limiting factors).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is how capable would this heat block be of printing at slow speeds with a 0.4&amp;nbsp;mm nozzle?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is printing still possible at lower speeds or is the filament heated too much that jams occur? Is the retraction performance okay?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19038" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-02-07T07:07:52.297" LastActivityDate="2020-03-01T21:56:27.500" Title="Can you print at low speeds with e3D Volcano hot end?" Tags="|hotend|speed|e3d-volcano|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11969" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11954" CreationDate="2020-02-07T13:27:24.723" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Solution:&lt;/strong&gt; After trying a lot of different filters with different tools, I came up with simplifying the point-cloud. After that, using the poisson surface reconstruction filter worked just fine without creating any weird bubbles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20026" LastActivityDate="2020-02-07T13:27:24.723" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11970" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11968" CreationDate="2020-02-07T14:35:02.310" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Speaking from first hand experience running a Volcano hotend, mostly using a 0.6&amp;nbsp;mm nozzle, but I have used 0.4&amp;nbsp;mm as well. I can't really complain about any lower printing speed limit (low speeds are usually a solution to high speeds problems for me).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just for completeness: I am using a DaVinci 1.1 Plus with custom firmware (modified Marlin) and an E3D Volcano hotend. No problems with the nozzle, clean prints! Note: I am using the Titan Aero as extruder but not using the included pancake motor! Went with the original motor of the DaVinci.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And as always: the parameters are key! Given a bit of tuning you can get amazing results! For PLA and ABS I can work without stringing. Although ABS seems to be prone to pitting (slight underextrusion at start of path). TPU and other flex are sometimes a bit of a challenge, but that's mainly due to my own lack of experience there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The one important caveat here would be to also reduce the nozzle temperature. A possible theory here might be that the filament has more time and surface to heat up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;(Sometimes I go as much as 15&amp;nbsp;°C lower as compared to normal/high speeds! Usually lower speeds means small pieces for me and in term means a limit to the layer cooling time.)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19305" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-02-28T11:27:40.733" LastActivityDate="2020-02-28T11:27:40.733" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11971" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-02-07T21:08:28.057" Score="1" ViewCount="1547" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an Ender 5 printer, which is a frame-based printer with no enclosure. However, I want to print ABS. Some experiments with a massive cardboard box have shown me I need an enclosure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because the printer has a box frame, fitting some perspex sheets will be easy. The bit that won't be easy is the top - the filament tube projects fairly high.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will I need to cover the top for ABS though? I read somewhere that drafts are a killer for ABS, which perspex around the sides should prevent. I guess most of the heat from the heat bed will be lost out of the top, so will this be a problem for layer adhesion?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3864" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-02-07T23:46:48.373" LastActivityDate="2020-03-11T12:10:16.667" Title="Does an enclosure need a roof to print ABS?" Tags="|enclosure|creality-ender-5|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11972" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11971" CreationDate="2020-02-07T22:04:26.543" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sides without a top will help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sides with a top will help more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do you need either? That depends. How warm, how dry, how drafty is your printing room?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4922" LastActivityDate="2020-02-07T22:04:26.543" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11973" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11971" CreationDate="2020-02-07T23:53:45.433" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;From experience I can tell you that boxing it up completely is not always a good thing to do. I have covered the front and top of an Ultimaker 3E printer to find out after some printing time that the cold ends weren't getting enough cooling, so I ended up clogging the nozzle assembly, preventing finishing the print. If you need to box it up to create a higher enclosure temperature, you better be sure the electronics, steppers and nozzles (that are in the enclosure) are cooled properly or do not get too hot, or alternatively you need to regulate the enclosure temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2020-02-07T23:53:45.433" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11974" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-02-08T01:23:44.070" Score="5" ViewCount="13799" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm new to 3D printing and have bought a resin printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cleaning with &lt;strong&gt;Isopropol Alcohol&lt;/strong&gt; seems to be the rage, however I think this is unaware of cost savings.  It appears &lt;strong&gt;methylated spirits&lt;/strong&gt; is ok and is 25% the cost of Isopropol Alcohol.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm now down to wondering if I should buy methylated spirits or &lt;strong&gt;turpentine&lt;/strong&gt; (I ruled out &lt;strong&gt;kerosene&lt;/strong&gt; as too flammable)?&#xA;I'm leaning towards methylated spirits, however would like input.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Factors&lt;/strong&gt; I'm curious about:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cost: same for methylated spirits and turpentine.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Evaporation/solvency: ?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Flammability: ?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Poisonous levels: ?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Resin object cleaning effect: ?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Skin effects: ?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Smell: ?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I checked a few &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.sydneysolvents.com.au/mineral-turpentine&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;sources&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20051" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2020-02-08T12:09:28.980" LastActivityDate="2021-09-06T04:22:24.467" Title="Methylated spirits or turpentine to clean resin printer?" Tags="|post-processing|sla|resin|dlp|cleaning|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11975" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-02-08T11:22:04.067" Score="0" ViewCount="127" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Prusa i3 and I have a problem concerning my Z axis. It stops at 15 mm even the object to print is more than this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can you, please, help me to solve this problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20054" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-02-13T07:33:05.850" LastActivityDate="2020-02-13T07:34:55.717" Title="My Z-axis is limited to 15 mm at height" Tags="|prusa-i3|troubleshooting|z-axis|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2020-02-13T07:34:09.283" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11976" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-02-08T23:16:27.137" Score="4" ViewCount="4333" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Creality Ender 3 Pro printer, and just installed the Micro-Swiss All-Metal Hotend for CR-10 S Pro. After installing following the video instructions by Micro Swiss and Teaching Tech, I set it to print a good old Benchy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Was working fine, until about half way through it blocked up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The stuck filament appears to be trapped, even when heated to 230 °C, which makes me think it may have melted into a gap somewhere and cooled creating a block. I am using Filamentive PLA.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My questions are a) how should I remove the filament fully without damaging the thermistor and heating element and b) what do I need to do to avoid jamming?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any suggestions? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20059" LastEditorUserId="11242" LastEditDate="2020-02-08T23:48:00.313" LastActivityDate="2021-04-26T05:02:43.043" Title="All-metal hot-end Creality Ender 3 Pro jamming issues" Tags="|creality-ender-3|troubleshooting|hotend|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11977" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11963" CreationDate="2020-02-09T02:28:16.797" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not allowed to comment, so have to answer:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The temperature sensor is a thermally sensitive resistor. Unfortunately, the temperature is near the high limit of that sensor, and the manufacturing tolerances are very significant. That is why a temperature tower is important for each printer, as well as each filament. (I have 4 printers and each requires a different temperature for the same filament. My worst-case is out by 25 degrees! - it's the one I bought second-hand because the original purchaser couldn't get it to work. I could replace the NTC, but it is easier just to have settings to suit that printer.)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Filament does change over time. Lots of theories about why, but the practical response is to tune settings to suit the filament. The alternative is to modify the filament (eg drying, adding oil to surface, etc.), but even with really old filament, I've found adjusting settings (in the slicer, like Cura) to be the most generally workable solution.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bottom line is to test, adjust settings and repeat until the system achieves the result you need. Treat most recommendations as serving suggestions, so use them as clues (but not rules) for the puzzles presented as 3D printing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user19977" LastEditorUserId="3864" LastEditDate="2020-02-17T18:28:03.873" LastActivityDate="2020-02-17T18:28:03.873" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11979" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11976" CreationDate="2020-02-09T10:11:29.520" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The so-called all-metal hotends are sold as upgrades to the lined hotend versions. Actually, they are &lt;strong&gt;not&lt;/strong&gt;. These are &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/2621/what-are-the-advantages-and-disadvantages-of-an-all-metal-hot-end-compared-to-on?rq=1&quot;&gt;different&lt;/a&gt; type of hotends that can be used printing at higher temperatures. However, PLA printing at high temperatures is not advised. You rather choose to print at slightly lower temperatures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What do I need to do to avoid jamming?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This requires that you change the way you operate the hotend/extrusion process. Why? Because the hotend is not lined, the heat from the heating block can more easily creep up the hotend into the coldend. This requires that you have a good performing cooling fan cooling the radiator fins of the coldend. Furthermore, because of the higher temperature (as the liner is not shielding the heat to the filament), the melted and the softened length of the filament in the hotend assembly is substantially longer. This means that excessive retraction lengths can cause soft material to be be pulled back too far. Knowing that the filament diameter is smaller than the tubes or the diameter of the heatbreak, this soft and molten filament can get stuck in the increased diameter section of the heatbreak.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But if it gets jammed,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How should I remove the filament fully without damaging the thermistor and heating element?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You need to ensure that enough heat gets into the hot and coldend to soften all the material. Currently PLA is stuck in the assembly. To soften all the material I would diasble the cooling fan of the coldend and heat up the heater to a temperature of 210-220 °C and keep this warming up for several minutes to allow heat to creep up. You can now try to push the filament through. If this fails wait longer or increase the temperature by 5 °C increments at a time. Too high temperature can cause filament to cook and carbonize. making it effectively harder too clean. If this fails, disassemble the hotend while hot (be careful!) and clean the individual part mechanically or use heat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-04-26T05:02:43.043" LastActivityDate="2021-04-26T05:02:43.043" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11980" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11986" CreationDate="2020-02-09T10:38:52.470" Score="2" ViewCount="609" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd like to prefix this question with the fact that I know virtually nothing about 3D printers, aside from the general principles of how they work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've recently seen that SLS printers have become more affordable, to the point where in a few years they might be a compelling investment. I'm mainly interested in 3D printing miniatures for painting, and as such this one:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tQUMO.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tQUMO.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Warhammer 40k Kustom Boosta-Blasta&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For scale, the miniature is about 150&amp;nbsp;mm long. I'm mainly worried about smaller details, such as the faces of the Gunner or Driver. Will a consumer-grade SLS printer be able to print to such level of detail?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20061" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2020-02-10T09:44:43.127" LastActivityDate="2020-02-10T16:13:20.510" Title="What level of detail can be expected from a consumer-grade SLS printer?" Tags="|print-quality|sls|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11981" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11980" CreationDate="2020-02-09T16:29:54.587" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's difficult to tell from your photo the level of detail required. A scale reference in the form of a metric ruler would be valuable. If, for example, the metallic eye on the gunner is 2 mm diameter, that would be 40 layers of 50 micron grains, allowing for substantial detail.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Consumer level SLS printers, such as the Sinterit Kit, use fifty micron nylon powder and is subject to some shrinking. This implies one can expect slightly smaller than fifty micron detail to appear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of our makerspace members purchased an SLS model from Shapeways. The surface is layer-free and one can see the individual granules under magnification. If you required a level of certainty of this detail, consider that you can create a model containing various levels of detail, then commission Shapeways to create it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's certain that they use a production level system, but one can inquire of Shapeways of the size of the powder that is used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastEditorUserId="854" LastEditDate="2020-02-09T16:58:37.383" LastActivityDate="2020-02-09T16:58:37.383" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11982" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11983" CreationDate="2020-02-09T17:03:28.673" Score="2" ViewCount="425" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to print this model of a boat:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jSWyL.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jSWyL.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It has 2 keels joined by 5 bridges, but the top of each keel is curved, so while the middle part is mostly flat, the bridge on the back has a bit of a slope (as you can see with the &quot;stair&quot; effect).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem I have is that I can't get Cura to properly bridge that specific part: It creates a bridge for the first layer, but on the next layer (where there's a part that needs bridging), it just starts drawing a surface:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NlN4K.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NlN4K.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this picture you can see layer 86 it has drawn a bridge between both keels, but on layer 87 it tries to print a surface larger than posible. That results in this happening:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/s8Adi.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/s8Adi.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and this causes big gaps in the top surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've been trying to play a bit with the settings in Cura, but I can't find anything that would fix this... Is there anything that can help me? (maybe even the model has a design problem)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20063" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-02-10T05:06:52.747" LastActivityDate="2020-02-10T05:06:52.747" Title="Sloped bridges in Cura" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|bridging|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11983" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11982" CreationDate="2020-02-09T17:21:06.773" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cura has some options in this area that might or might not help. I've had mixed results. You should make sure Enable Bridge Settings is on, and try adjusting Bridge Skin Support Threshold. By default bridge settings are only used if 50% or more &lt;em&gt;of the area&lt;/em&gt; is unsupported. Area is an utterly ridiculous/meaningless metric for whether bridging is needed, so you probably need to set this to just a really high value like 90% or 95%. You may also want to check that Bridge Has Multiple Layers is on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With that said, for your model I would just use supports with a support interface (roof) below the bridges. You could reduce the material cost of them with Support Tree mode. But there are of course places where you can't use supports in similar models (bridge is over another part of the model and there's no access to remove the support material), so having working bridge settings is still desirable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2020-02-09T17:21:06.773" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11984" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-02-09T18:21:25.230" Score="5" ViewCount="20690" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm using firmware Marlin 2.0.3 on an Anet A8 printer. I'm using a Roko SN04-N NPN bed leveller. I've managed to set up 3 points bed levelling but I wanted to try the bilinear levelling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Issue is, the sensor goes out of the aluminum bed ever so slightly during levelling, resulting in the printing head crashing on the bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Where can I set the grid for the bilinear levelling in the config file? I didn't find the option in the file and Google wasn't of any help this time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20065" LastActivityDate="2022-11-15T20:23:24.823" Title="Where to define grid for bilinear levelling in Marlin" Tags="|marlin|bed-leveling|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11985" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11984" CreationDate="2020-02-10T08:13:11.290" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have managed to setup 3-point levelling, you should be able to enable bi-linear levelling in the firmware.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Configurations/blob/master/config/default/Configuration.h&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;configuration.h&lt;/a&gt; file for Marlin firmware you can find the following options:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&#xA;/**&#xA; * Choose one of the options below to enable G29 Bed Leveling. The parameters&#xA; * and behavior of G29 will change depending on your selection.&#xA; *&#xA; *  If using a Probe for Z Homing, enable Z_SAFE_HOMING also!&#xA; *&#xA; * - AUTO_BED_LEVELING_3POINT&#xA; *   Probe 3 arbitrary points on the bed (that aren't collinear)&#xA; *   You specify the XY coordinates of all 3 points.&#xA; *   The result is a single tilted plane. Best for a flat bed.&#xA; *&#xA; * - AUTO_BED_LEVELING_LINEAR&#xA; *   Probe several points in a grid.&#xA; *   You specify the rectangle and the density of sample points.&#xA; *   The result is a single tilted plane. Best for a flat bed.&#xA; *&#xA; * - AUTO_BED_LEVELING_BILINEAR&#xA; *   Probe several points in a grid.&#xA; *   You specify the rectangle and the density of sample points.&#xA; *   The result is a mesh, best for large or uneven beds.&#xA; *&#xA; * - AUTO_BED_LEVELING_UBL (Unified Bed Leveling)&#xA; *   A comprehensive bed leveling system combining the features and benefits&#xA; *   of other systems. UBL also includes integrated Mesh Generation, Mesh&#xA; *   Validation and Mesh Editing systems.&#xA; *&#xA; * - MESH_BED_LEVELING&#xA; *   Probe a grid manually&#xA; *   The result is a mesh, suitable for large or uneven beds. (See BILINEAR.)&#xA; *   For machines without a probe, Mesh Bed Leveling provides a method to perform&#xA; *   leveling in steps so you can manually adjust the Z height at each grid-point.&#xA; *   With an LCD controller the process is guided step-by-step.&#xA; */&#xA;//#define AUTO_BED_LEVELING_3POINT&#xA;//#define AUTO_BED_LEVELING_LINEAR&#xA;//#define AUTO_BED_LEVELING_BILINEAR&#xA;//#define AUTO_BED_LEVELING_UBL&#xA;//#define MESH_BED_LEVELING&#xA;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are using 3-point levelling you enabled constant &lt;code&gt;AUTO_BED_LEVELING_3POINT&lt;/code&gt; by removing the comment characters (&lt;code&gt;//&lt;/code&gt;):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#define AUTO_BED_LEVELING_3POINT&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;to enable bi-linear levelling, you should remove the comment characters before constant &lt;code&gt;#define AUTO_BED_LEVELING_BILINEAR&lt;/code&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#define AUTO_BED_LEVELING_BILINEAR&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Definition of the grid is done by specifying how many point you want to have using constants &lt;code&gt;GRID_MAX_POINTS_X&lt;/code&gt; and &lt;code&gt;GRID_MAX_POINTS_Y&lt;/code&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&#xA;#if EITHER(AUTO_BED_LEVELING_LINEAR, AUTO_BED_LEVELING_BILINEAR)&#xA;&#xA;  // Set the number of grid points per dimension.&#xA;  #define GRID_MAX_POINTS_X 3&#xA;  #define GRID_MAX_POINTS_Y GRID_MAX_POINTS_X&#xA;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The code above shows the default definition of a 9 point (3 x 3) grid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that this will only work well if the area for the sensor to reach safely is correctly defined. If the sensor is missing the build plate, you have not correctly defined the limits for the sensor. Question &lt;a href=&quot;/q/8153&quot;&gt;&quot;How to set Z-probe boundary limits in firmware when using automatic bed leveling?&quot;&lt;/a&gt; has an &lt;a href=&quot;/a/8154&quot;&gt;accepted answer&lt;/a&gt; that describes how to define an area on the plate that the sensor may reach (the answer on this question also discusses Marlin 2.x).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;In the specific case of the OP (after posting the config files)&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the posted configuration files your probe position can be obtained:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#define NOZZLE_TO_PROBE_OFFSET { 25, 55, 0 }&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So your probe is at the right-back when facing the printer. Also your bed area attempt (commented) and the current active bed area can be obtained:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&#xA;#if PROBE_SELECTED &amp;&amp; !IS_KINEMATIC&#xA;  //#define MIN_PROBE_EDGE_LEFT 5&#xA;  //#define MIN_PROBE_EDGE_RIGHT 200&#xA;  //#define MIN_PROBE_EDGE_FRONT 55&#xA;  //#define MIN_PROBE_EDGE_BACK 200&#xA;  #define MIN_PROBE_EDGE_LEFT MIN_PROBE_EDGE&#xA;  #define MIN_PROBE_EDGE_RIGHT MIN_PROBE_EDGE&#xA;  #define MIN_PROBE_EDGE_FRONT MIN_PROBE_EDGE&#xA;  #define MIN_PROBE_EDGE_BACK MIN_PROBE_EDGE&#xA;#endif&#xA;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From these excerpts it is clear that the bed limits are incorrectly defined. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Following the theory from &lt;a href=&quot;/a/8154/&quot;&gt;this answer&lt;/a&gt; the probe is only allowed to visit the following (dark red) area:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gpeCz.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gpeCz.png&quot; alt=&quot;Probe area for back-right probe Marlin 2.0.x&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This area is defined as:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&#xA;  #define MIN_PROBE_EDGE_LEFT (PROBE_OFFSET_X_FROM_EXTRUDER + MIN_PROBE_EDGE)&#xA;  #define MIN_PROBE_EDGE_RIGHT (MIN_PROBE_EDGE)&#xA;  #define MIN_PROBE_EDGE_FRONT (PROBE_OFFSET_Y_FROM_EXTRUDER + MIN_PROBE_EDGE)&#xA;  #define MIN_PROBE_EDGE_BACK (MIN_PROBE_EDGE)&#xA;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;which translates to:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&#xA;  #define MIN_PROBE_EDGE_LEFT (25 + MIN_PROBE_EDGE)&#xA;  #define MIN_PROBE_EDGE_RIGHT (MIN_PROBE_EDGE)&#xA;  #define MIN_PROBE_EDGE_FRONT (55 + MIN_PROBE_EDGE)&#xA;  #define MIN_PROBE_EDGE_BACK (MIN_PROBE_EDGE)&#xA;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As seen in the commented &lt;code&gt;//#define MIN_PROBE_EDGE_LEFT 5&lt;/code&gt; and uncommented &lt;code&gt;#define MIN_PROBE_EDGE_LEFT MIN_PROBE_EDGE&lt;/code&gt; (equals 10) left probe limits, you are at least respectively 20&amp;nbsp; or 15&amp;nbsp;mm short, hence the sensor is not on the plate on the left.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-02-19T19:41:04.063" LastActivityDate="2020-02-19T19:41:04.063" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11986" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11980" CreationDate="2020-02-10T15:08:33.067" Score="4" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Consumer Market?&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While there are no &amp;quot;consumer level&amp;quot; SLS printers on the market currently, the question in itself is very interesting on a scientific level. The pricing edges for the consumer market for 3D printers can be somewhat estimated from the consumer electronics segment. This puts a maximum price tag of about 2000-2500 \$ onto it, comparable to a high-end PC.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Currently&lt;sup&gt;Feb. 2020&lt;/sup&gt;, most SLS machines come with 'inquire for price' or with prices of &lt;a href=&quot;https://sintratec.com/product/sintratec-kit/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;5000 \$&lt;/a&gt; or larger price tags, which indicates they are intended for professional or industrial use. Most SLS printers in consumer hands seem to be phased out older systems from second hand. So while there are for sure tries to get SLS more affordable, it is not there yet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Resolution of SLS&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;SLS printers have resolutions based on two factors&lt;sup&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://cdn.intechopen.com/pdfs/60707.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;1&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;grain size&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;laser diameter&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Generally speaking, the finer the grain and more focussed the laser, the better the resolution. Current industrial machines - even cheap ones - work with particle sizes between 20 and 80 µm, with the bulk being around 40 to 60 µm&lt;sup&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://aip.scitation.org/doi/pdf/10.1063/1.4918516&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;2&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The laser focus point ranges generally in the &amp;quot;tens of µm&amp;quot;&lt;sup&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://cdn.intechopen.com/pdfs/60707.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;1&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;, and is listed with values between 50 and 300 µm for most ceramic powders in that paper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Conclusion&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a rule of thumb, 50 µm seems to be the average nylon spot size, which is very much comparable with resin printers using SLA/mSLA/DLP technology. Details on miniatures are usually in the area of 100-200 µm, so are well achieveable with either.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Comparison SLS to SLA/mSLA/DLP&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Resin technology has the benefit of being easier accessible with some entry level printes between 200 and 500 \$. Nylon SLS prints do demand a sealant but prints without any supports, Resin does at times need support.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Printing times for DLP/mSLA is not dependant on the ammount of space used, making packing the build surface with as many models as possible benefitial, while SLS, like FDM, works with a moving spot, so the ammount of models increases print time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both Technologies work with hazardous material - resin and very fine powders respecively - and demand proper PPE to handle them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:29:41.667" LastActivityDate="2020-02-10T16:13:20.510" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11987" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11007" CreationDate="2020-02-10T19:19:49.060" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This answer is intended to be a generic answer for Z-offset determination. The question is not clear on how the Z-offset has been determined. It appears as if this distance is measured, while in reality this cannot be measured.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A touch (or a inductive or capacitive) probe uses a trigger point to determine the distance of the probe trigger point to the bed print surface. Correct installation is trivial, as is the determination of the nozzle to trigger point definition. For a touch sensor, the probing element is either stowed, fully deployed, or pushed in during leveling up to the point that the trigger point is reached and the probe stowes the rest of the pin, see figure:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wdto7.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wdto7.png&quot; alt=&quot;BLTouch or 3DTouch sensor Z-offset definition&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;code&gt;M851 Zxx.xx&lt;/code&gt; offset is determined by lowering the nozzle beyond the  trigger point until the nozzle hits a paper sheet. If the stowed position to nozzle distance is used, the distance is too large and the nozzle will dive into the bed on printing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-03-13T12:14:34.727" LastActivityDate="2020-03-13T12:14:34.727" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11988" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-02-10T21:03:09.093" Score="0" ViewCount="1154" Body="&lt;p&gt;I purchased a (very) low tier printer a while back, and now I am looking to start upgrading. First on my list is to upgrade the controller&lt;sup&gt;1)&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My initial plan was to upgrade to an Arduino Mega with a RAMPS 1.4 running Marlin, but as I started to try to find a RAMPS 1.4 board I started questioning my plan. Almost every source I could find for the board was either out of stock or very sketchy. Then I discovered that RAMPS 1.6 exists, but I can find even fewer places with it in stock.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is the Mega + RAMPS combo still what people are using? I made a printer 4 years ago and that was what I used, but due to the scarcity of RAMPS boards for sale I am now unsure if it is still being used by the community.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If RAMPS still is the recommendation, what brands are reputable? (I'm trying to figure out if using RAMPS 1.4 with a Mega is an outdated solution and if there are better solutions these days.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1)&lt;/sup&gt; Upgrading is necessary for:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Temperature/humidity sensors for monitoring/feedback; enclosure heaters (plan on having enclosed build space, work in a relative cold space); larger display with plenty of tactile switches; light sensor so the LEDs illuminating the enclosure can be modulated to provide more constant light levels for a webcam; possibly some joy sticks to manually maneuver the extruder and bed; etc. Basically I want something that can feasibly handle any unnecessary sensor/input I may eventually want to add. I'm familiar with Arduino and know it has those capabilities, but have no clue about other controllers.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19371" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-02-17T12:10:45.537" LastActivityDate="2020-02-17T12:10:45.537" Title="Upgrading printer controller" Tags="|printer-building|ramps|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11989" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-02-11T04:57:31.660" Score="6" ViewCount="6105" Body="&lt;p&gt;For practicality sake, I need to print a design such that there will be weight hanging parellel to the layer lines. Is there an infill pattern that would be better than others at handling this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I realize that all kinds of infill will still have the same layer boundaries. Just wondering if choosing any given infill might provide better results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10422" LastActivityDate="2020-02-14T10:07:27.697" Title="What is the best infill pattern for shearing strength?" Tags="|fdm|infill|print-strength|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11990" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="182" CreationDate="2020-02-11T06:23:05.263" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Had similar problems with blender &amp;lt;-&gt; Slic3r, modified a stl in blender then slic3r started acting up, showing strange faces where it shouldn't.&#xA;The solution was (as suggested by @tbm0115) to solidify the exported object.&#xA;Just add a Solidify modifier to the object(no need to apply), and when exporting to stl make sure to check the &quot;Apply modifiers&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20082" LastActivityDate="2020-02-11T06:23:05.263" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11991" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-02-11T16:32:33.147" Score="0" ViewCount="411" Body="&lt;p&gt;Stepper motors in 3D printers are used to move and position the extruder. But why don't the printers use servo motors or any other type of motors instead. Why only stepper motors are commonly used?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20073" LastEditorUserId="20073" LastEditDate="2020-02-11T16:38:45.323" LastActivityDate="2020-02-11T16:53:55.750" Title="Why are stepper motors used in 3D printers?" Tags="|stepper|motor|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2020-02-11T22:10:47.250" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11992" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11991" CreationDate="2020-02-11T16:53:55.750" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;FDM 3D printers need to do repeatable moves. Servos might give better and more repeatable torque, but they don't give very precise movement without the need of an encoder system. This makes Steppers cheaper and easier adaptable in most cases, even though there are some printers that use different motor systems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that different printers like SLS printer do use several simple motors, especially for the system putting down powder, and the tilting system in the new mSLA Prusa uses - afaik - a simple motor doing one rotation per tilting motion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastActivityDate="2020-02-11T16:53:55.750" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11993" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6522" CreationDate="2020-02-11T17:55:43.093" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;While you definitely can do this with custom slicing settings, if the &quot;infill&quot; is a design constraint necessary for the part to properly function, I prefer making it a part of the design rather than leaving it as something you can mess up at slicing time. This is particularly important if you will be sharing the design for use by others or using a 3D printing service that might not give you sufficient control over the slicing parameters. Moreover, when you say you want &quot;higher infill&quot; in particular parts, this is often an imprecise way of conveying what you really need, which is &lt;em&gt;particular infill structure&lt;/em&gt; - usually additional walls - not just a denser version of the infill pattern.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To use your example of points that need to accept screws (either drilled/tapped after printing, or with printed threads), just having denser infill in that part of the print won't help unless it's 100%; drilling into infill pattern will not give you something solid that a screw can thread securely into.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I do for things like this is create internal gaps in the model, narrower than the minimum clearance needed to avoid walls bonding to each other. For example, cutting out concentric cylindrical surfaces can make a great solid region to thread a screw into. As noted by Trish in a comment, 0.05 mm seems to be a good choice of gap width that's below the clearance needed for FDM printers to avoid bonding, but large enough not to get removed by slicing tools.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to ensure the model is still logically one connected component, leave some gaps in the cut, something like:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kek84.png&quot; alt=&quot;reinforced hole model in openscad&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's a lot of room for experimentation with exactly what kind of gaps work best. As Trish suggested, varying the location of bridges between layers may help. Adjusting spacing based on expected extrusion line widths may also be a good idea. One approach i've used in strengthening bolts, that might also work for threaded holes, is repeating the inner and outer thread profiles as a gap in the model. Here's an example cut to show the gap:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lxJbm.png&quot; alt=&quot;bolt with 60 degree part cut away to show reinforcement in head&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This particular reinforcement is mitigating the fact that roofing above infill is only supported by the infill, and thereby is able to sag slightly, preventing the layers from bonding as strongly and preventing the threaded walls from bonding strongly to the head.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastEditorUserId="11157" LastEditDate="2020-02-11T20:49:54.297" LastActivityDate="2020-02-11T20:49:54.297" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11994" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11971" CreationDate="2020-02-11T19:23:22.830" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If ambient temp gets under 70°F, layer adhesion becomes a real problem. I have found that enclosing the space and adding heat makes the printing more reliable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This answer is based on a few years of solely printing ABS. I've got my printer on a tool cart and the spool holder is above on a post. The first time winter ruined a print, I threw a pallet covering plastic bag over all of it and put a small, low powered, forced air heater more or less pointing at the printing area. It wasn't air tight, but I made effort to close it up pretty well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The current location of the 3D printer is on the bottom tier of the cart with a temperature controlled heater pointing at it. I opened up a large amazon box and set it against the cart, forming walls on 3 sides. There is poor sealing but the print quality stayed good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Oh and obviously it is very dangerous and have burned down my workplace and home several times, so don't do it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20086" LastEditorUserId="20086" LastEditDate="2020-02-17T21:38:35.417" LastActivityDate="2020-02-17T21:38:35.417" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11995" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11989" CreationDate="2020-02-11T20:24:44.293" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, some infill patterns are better than others for preventing separation of layers. Basically (modulo some assumptions about uniformity of distribution of force), the shearing strength of the part in the Z direction at a particular layer is going to be proportional to the &lt;em&gt;surface area&lt;/em&gt; of bonding between successive layers. So infill patterns that stack identical infill extrusions on top of each other at each layer should be expected to be much stronger than patterns where successive layers make only partial contact. In other words, &quot;2D infill patterns&quot; - grid, lines, triangles, tri-hexagon - should be a lot stronger than &quot;3D infill patterns&quot; - cubic, octet, gyroid, ... This matches my experience printing bolts oriented along the Z-axis - ones printed with gyroid snap easily unless other measures are taken to strengthen them, while ones printed with triangles are fairly strong (though nowhere near as strong as ones printed oriented in the XY plane.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have other reason to prefer a &quot;3D infill pattern&quot;, its weakness can be mitigated mostly by increasing the infill line width, so that the lines of successive layers which don't entirely overlap still touch on more surface area. (Just increasing the infill line width also works to make &quot;2D infill patterns&quot; even stronger.) However, be aware that with high print speed typically used for infill, increasing infill line width can easily exceed the capability of your hotend, resulting in underextrusion, extruder skipping, and stringing all over the place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastEditorUserId="11157" LastEditDate="2020-02-11T20:35:28.490" LastActivityDate="2020-02-11T20:35:28.490" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11996" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-02-12T00:19:24.037" Score="1" ViewCount="5414" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been fighting on and off with issues with my build plate seemingly not being perfectly flat. I've ordered a machined straight-edge and some new feeler gauges to diagnose the problem (and test any potential replacement) better, but I'd like to get an idea of what options are available for obtaining a flatter build surface. I'm not really interested in approaches like BLTouch since I want accurate flat bottoms on my prints, not just consistent adhesion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My printer is an Ender 3 and I believe my problem is a mix of wear to the Buildtak clone surface and warping in its backing plate. Mine is the newer model with removable buildplate and clips, and the backing is &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/comments/9quifs/having_trouble_finding_ender_3_replacement/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;reportedly&lt;/a&gt; a &quot;glass fiber&quot; (FR-4) material that's hard to find genuine replacements for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Glass seems like an obvious option - I might even put a buildtak clone on one side of it and use that most of the time - but I'm somewhat concerned about weight and whether having glass moved by the Y axis is going to limit acceleration. I've had (seemingly unrelated) problems on and off with layer shifts, which seem to be mostly Marlin's fault not mechanical, but I'm scared to introduce another factor that might encourage them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there other non-glass options I should consider that would provide a rigid, flat backing? I'm very happy with the buildtak clones and their adhesion properties, so my leaning it to look for something that makes a good backing for them rather than a material that's intended to be built directly upon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Measurement results:&lt;/strong&gt; Using a machined straightedge and feeler gauges, the surface seems to be at least 0.10 mm but less than 0.15 mm lower within a couple inches of the bed center. This is plausibly just wear on the buildtak-clone surface, so I think I'll try to see if I can get by with just replacing that for now. But I'm still interested in the general topic of the question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastEditorUserId="11157" LastEditDate="2020-02-13T19:32:37.737" LastActivityDate="2020-02-17T16:50:38.863" Title="Options for getting a really flat build surface" Tags="|creality-ender-3|bed-leveling|build-plate|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11997" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11989" CreationDate="2020-02-12T06:49:59.083" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The shearing strength characteristics, or better known as interlaminar shear strength (ILSS) characteristics, describe the shear strength between the layers. This is also known as flexural or bending strength characteristics. These are best obtained by performing a 3- or 4-point bending test; these tests are standardized by the American Society for Testing and Materials, ASTM International (e.g. ASTM D 7264).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bending test will cause internal compression (concave side during testing) and internal tension stresses (convex side during testing). The figure below shows the general setup of a 3-point bending test and below that  magnification of the stresses inside the test specimen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GFMB5.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GFMB5.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The tests concern the interlaminar shearing of layers, so, the much more material a layer consists of (e.g. infill percentage) the higher the resistance against shearing off. Also, how the infill is internally supported by its form helps, if it buckles easily on the compression side, the buckling occurs before shear off. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not only the type and percentage of infill is important for the flexural strength, but also the layer height, nozzle diameter print temperature as found in &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.researchgate.net/publication/323878149_Strength_of_PLA_Components_Fabricated_with_Fused_Deposition_Technology_using_a_Desktop_3D_Printer_as_a_Function_of_Geometrical_Parameters_of_the_Process/link/5b9becf0299bf13e60316784/download&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this research paper&lt;/a&gt;. Another paper, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.researchgate.net/publication/328848028_Effect_of_infill_on_tensile_and_flexural_strength_of_3D_printed_PLA_parts&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&quot;Effect of infill on tensile and flexural strength of 3D printed PLA parts&quot;&lt;/a&gt; directly answers your question, quoting the figure from the paper:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/euoYn.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/euoYn.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should choose an infill that has the most support. Since year and day, in creating composite sandwich panels (often used in aerospace applications where high stiffness and low weight are essential) &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Honeycomb_structure&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;honeycomb core structures&lt;/a&gt; are used as these honeycomb structures allow minimization of the amount of weight and used material. From the figure above you see that rectangular infill is best suited for FFF products. Honeycomb is the second best, but significantly lower. Note that orientation is key! E.g. &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.cartesiancreations.com.au/gyroid-infill-tests/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this test conducted by Martin&lt;/a&gt; shows that Gyroid and honeycomb infill performs better than rectilinear:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OVdMG.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OVdMG.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To answer your question, not only infill pattern, but also infill density, nozzle diameter, layer height and orientation play an important role in the shearing strength. This is why ASTM has defined a standard so that we can compare results amongst different materials or different lay- or set-ups. These tests are typically performed dynamically (alternating load), statically with increasing load (increasing load with time) or statically fixed load (constant load to determine the creep properties, these test typically take a long time when the load is low).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-02-12T07:21:21.000" LastActivityDate="2020-02-12T07:21:21.000" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11998" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3112" CreationDate="2020-02-12T13:39:07.767" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;That's work solution:&#xA;&lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/1kcvIRhXkCo?start=0&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&#xA;you need 2 terminal, one for in and another for out flows &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20090" LastActivityDate="2020-02-12T13:39:07.767" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11999" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11975" CreationDate="2020-02-12T16:18:58.770" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;@Trish is right, it would help greatly to have more details, such as the model of printer, photos of the printer at the upper height limit, and a video with sound of moving the head against the 15&amp;nbsp;mm stop.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Without those details you might answer your question for yourself (and for SE) by trying these tests and considering the results.  If you have already done these things, it would help us help you if you included your results, and other experimental results, in the question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem could be in the mechanism or in the slicing program.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using the UI, can you raise the head above 15&amp;nbsp;mm?  On the Prusa3D branded i3m3 the UI will allow you to move the Z axis hard against the top stops.  If the UI can raise it, the problem is more likely to be in the slicing program.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the UI can not raise the head above 15&amp;nbsp;mm, move has high as you can and listen carefully.  Does it simply fail to move with no noise?  Is there a clicking or banging sound as you try to move higher?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If there is a clicking or banging sound, something hard is interfering.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it simply stops moving, does the machine reset or just stop with no glitching on the UI?  It is reset, look for a cable problem, such as a short circuit or wires pulling on the controller PCB.  If it is just a silent refusal to move, it could be the Z-axis plug is loose and being tugged by the cable bundle to the head.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the problem seems to be in the slicing software, check that the Z-height is set properly there.  If good slicing software thinks you have only a 15&amp;nbsp;mm height, it won't try to print higher than that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2082" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-02-13T07:34:55.717" LastActivityDate="2020-02-13T07:34:55.717" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12000" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11996" CreationDate="2020-02-12T16:22:11.763" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You are almost certainly attempting to optimize a component rather than optimize the &lt;strong&gt;system.&lt;/strong&gt;   The quality of the final produced prints depends on the combination of error sources.  In brief, this means there's no point in getting a bed whose flatness is, say less than 50% of the variation in Z-axis positioning,  in extrusion flow rate, and so on.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is true that it's nice to have a material which won't warp over time so recalibration isn't necessary.  Variation with temperature is unlikely to matter unless you anticipate making prints with a large difference in the temperature setpoint (maybe for radically different materials), and even then you should be able to calibrate for a couple different setpoints. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2191" LastActivityDate="2020-02-12T16:22:11.763" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12001" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11996" CreationDate="2020-02-12T17:09:54.943" Score="4" Body="&lt;h2&gt;It all depends on what you mean by &quot;flat&quot;.&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is the problem that the build plate isn't flat (perfectly planar), or is the problem that the distance to the build plate varies based on X and Y coordinates?  They are very different problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;Bed Leveling&quot; is the process of allowing the firmware to know the Z position of the build plate for every (X,Y) location.  Some printers support measuring a mesh of points and interpolating the mesh.  This compensates quite well both for warped build plate, and for bad positioning mechanisms which add some position dependent Z-axis offset.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you really need a flat, planar, build surface, perhaps because you are printing mirrors or precision parts, glass should work well.  It is still, and will not brook any inelastic bending.  It will shatter before it takes on a curve.  If possible, you could consider a Pyrex® bed, since it has a lower coefficient of thermal expansion and won't warp as much with a temperature gradient through the glass. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried to find a spec on how flat your glass might be.  I'm assuming it is &quot;float glass&quot;, which is made by floating molten glass on a pool of molten tin.  I didn't find a spec, but I found this answer to a similar question:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I doubt you will find such a spec- float glass isn't manufactured for&#xA;  that purpose and it isn't really in the manufacturer's interests to&#xA;  maintain such a spec. that said, the stuff is surprisingly flat, just&#xA;  as a side effect of how it's made. you don't say what your needs are&#xA;  other than &lt;em&gt;near optical tolerances&lt;/em&gt; . might just be good enough for&#xA;  you. consider though that granite surface plates of certified flatness&#xA;  can be had fairly inexpensively these days.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, it is clearly flat.  I can't tell you how flat.  And the flatness depends on not applying stress to the glass that causes it to bed.  Thicker is stiffer (probably at the third power of the thickness ratio).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2082" LastActivityDate="2020-02-12T17:09:54.943" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12002" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11989" CreationDate="2020-02-12T19:57:50.497" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;0scar's answer is the &quot;solution&quot; or true answer to the question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Watching youtube the last few days, cubic needs to be considered. I was surprised at what I saw. More to consider is adding design elements:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The concept of flutes along the perimeter.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Adding through holes increases strength incredibly.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20086" LastActivityDate="2020-02-12T19:57:50.497" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12003" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11967" CreationDate="2020-02-12T20:06:04.143" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;PETG becomes transparent when the layers completely fuse. Translucency is from incomplete adhesion or voids left. Try small increases to flow or print width to get slightly better fill - or slow the speed (but speed might not affect how much material is output).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, I see the top surface has a pattern on it. My FDM printer always does a similar thing and it will take tuning to get it smooth. If you see the pattern repeating consistently, it is possible the extruder stepper (or its driver) is starting to fail. I've had that too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20086" LastActivityDate="2020-02-12T20:06:04.143" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12004" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11963" CreationDate="2020-02-13T05:20:13.943" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;A temperature of 200&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C is fine. You probably have heat creep from a Bowden style extruder. The filament starts getting softer due to heat creeping up from the hot nozzle. Filament expands and clogs the tube causing gear clicking. Usually there is a heat sink at the  the Bowden tube connection. You need to cool that immediately. Which is, to set your fan to 100&amp;nbsp;% speed at layer height = 0. That should do the trick!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20095" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-02-13T07:31:49.473" LastActivityDate="2020-02-13T07:31:49.473" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12005" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11967" CreationDate="2020-02-13T07:42:42.307" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are you using Z-hop? Is there any play in the Z-axis direction? It appears that parts of the first layer are printed much thinner than other parts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What can happen if there is a little play in the Z-axis direction that the nozzle doesn't return to the same level after a Z-hop movement (e.g. backlash in the leadscrew nuts).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &quot;transparent&quot; printed part appears thinner, this must indicate that the Z positioning is not up to par.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2020-02-13T07:42:42.307" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12008" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-02-14T13:50:54.060" Score="2" ViewCount="155" Body="&lt;p&gt;Prusa, I3 Mk2.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Marlin 2.0.3  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The test model printed fine prior to installing Marlin 2.0.3. It's not the slicer or GCode. I tried several models, and all of them worked perfectly prior to the update. The video below shows what's happening. The Z axis homes, then when the heating is over the head centers, and rises to 15&amp;nbsp;mm (as shown on the display). The print starts, the head doesn't move down but the display shows 0.1&amp;nbsp;mm. I know I missed something in the Configuration.h but I can't figure out what.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/9jY7rp8AmIg?start=0&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20110" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-02-14T17:06:53.110" LastActivityDate="2020-02-14T17:06:53.110" Title="Z Axis homes, then bounces up 15 mm and stays there when printing" Tags="|marlin|z-axis|reprap|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12009" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-02-14T19:37:22.153" Score="2" ViewCount="4704" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is it possible to convert an image image to STL file format? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Y6SYj.png&quot; alt=&quot;png image&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;E.g. I don't need the coloring, I need the lines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19339" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-02-17T10:03:13.737" LastActivityDate="2020-11-06T12:49:45.647" Title="How to convert png to stl?" Tags="|stl|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12011" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12009" CreationDate="2020-02-14T23:06:25.567" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;PNGs are 2-dimensional picture data files. STL however is a 3-dimensinal surface data files. The two are not inherently transformable into one another, as there simply is no 3rd dimension encoded in the PNG.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, there are ways to generate a 3rd dimension from a color picture:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lithophane&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Lithophanes&lt;/a&gt; take color information and use that as a degree of deviation from a base plane.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Using 3D design software that supports importing image data, one can trace the areas in 2D and &lt;em&gt;extrude&lt;/em&gt; them to different heights or &lt;em&gt;emboss&lt;/em&gt; the patterns into a block, even with different depths for each color.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2020-11-06T12:49:45.647" LastActivityDate="2020-11-06T12:49:45.647" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12012" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12009" CreationDate="2020-02-15T00:20:10.453" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I suggest your objective can best be accomplished by converting the image to a single color vector file. You can do this with Inkscape (free, Linux, Windows, Mac) by combining the built-in bitmap tracing feature with some manual editing. I attempted to do so, but the coarseness of the image would result in excessive manual edit time. It may even be faster to reduce the opacity of the image and create a manual tracing on a second layer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you have a vector file, you can use any number of 3D modeling programs to convert the file to a 3D STL. Fusion 360, Tinkercad and OpenSCAD allow import of SVG files to be extruded to user-specified thickness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastActivityDate="2020-02-15T00:20:10.453" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12014" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12015" CreationDate="2020-02-15T04:04:00.173" Score="1" ViewCount="2203" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Robo R1+ which uses the nozzle contacting the glass print bed to level the printer. When the print head strikes the bed the Z-min endstops open signaling that the bed is touched.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I recently upgraded from an Arduino to an SKR 1.3 running Marlin 2.0 and have been trying to make the printer auto level. However all the examples I can find involve a probe. I'm not even sure what this kind of autoleveling is called.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a way to configure Marlin 2.0 to perform this kind of autoleveling. And if so what lines should I comment and un-comment?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14773" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-02-15T05:35:00.780" LastActivityDate="2020-07-20T09:11:13.167" Title="Switch nozzle contact probe auto leveling with Marlin 2.0" Tags="|marlin|bed-leveling|skr-v1.3|robo-r1+|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12015" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12014" CreationDate="2020-02-15T06:37:17.480" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Basically, you are also using a probe, the nozzle is the probe. So this is very similar to an auto levelling setup using a capacitive or inductive sensor, the difference is that your &lt;code&gt;M851&lt;/code&gt; nozzle to probe distance is zero, and may receive a positive value to slightly raise it to get a sheet of paper in between the nozzle and printing surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Please note that below only changes for levelling are addressed, not other specifics in Marlin 2.x for the Robo R1+!&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First you define the nozzle offset in &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/blob/2.0.x/Marlin/Configuration.h&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Configuration.h&lt;/a&gt;, which is exactly at the nozzle, so X and Y (and Z) are zero.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#define NOZZLE_TO_PROBE_OFFSET { 0, 0, 0 }&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also set:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;define NOZZLE_AS_PROBE&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Furthermore, you need to define a levelling method in the same configuration file:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&#xA;//#define AUTO_BED_LEVELING_3POINT&#xA;//#define AUTO_BED_LEVELING_LINEAR&#xA;#define AUTO_BED_LEVELING_BILINEAR&#xA;//#define AUTO_BED_LEVELING_UBL&#xA;//#define MESH_BED_LEVELING&#xA;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For safety, we usually home Z at the center of the printing surface:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#define Z_SAFE_HOMING&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also be sure the following statement is active:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#define Z_MIN_PROBE_USES_Z_MIN_ENDSTOP_PIN&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next, you need to define the boundaries of the &amp;quot;probe&amp;quot;, which is exactly where the nozzle may come (apart from a small safety offset at all edges called &lt;code&gt;MIN_PROBE_EDGE&lt;/code&gt;); how you do that is described in question &amp;quot;&lt;a href=&quot;/q/8153&quot;&gt;How to set Z-probe boundary limits in firmware when using automatic bed leveling?&lt;/a&gt;&amp;quot;, in Marlin 2.x this needs to be set in &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/blob/2.0.x/Marlin/Configuration_adv.h&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Configuration_adv.h&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&#xA;#if PROBE_SELECTED &amp;&amp; !IS_KINEMATIC&#xA;  #define MIN_PROBE_EDGE_LEFT MIN_PROBE_EDGE&#xA;  #define MIN_PROBE_EDGE_RIGHT MIN_PROBE_EDGE&#xA;  #define MIN_PROBE_EDGE_FRONT MIN_PROBE_EDGE&#xA;  #define MIN_PROBE_EDGE_BACK MIN_PROBE_EDGE&#xA;#endif&#xA;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-07-20T09:11:13.167" LastActivityDate="2020-07-20T09:11:13.167" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12016" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11988" CreationDate="2020-02-15T23:33:35.020" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;As per &lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/wiki/RAMPS_1.6&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://reprap.org/wiki/RAMPS_1.6&lt;/a&gt;,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The RAMPS 1.6 is the second RAMPS iteration released by BIQU/BIGTREETECH. It replaces the original green power connector with a pair of screw terminals, adds a larger heatsink over the MOSFETS, and has a larger bed MOSFET. It maintains the surface-mounted fuses and flush MOSFETS of the RAMPS 1.5.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, the positions of the D1 and D2 diodes have been swapped from the positions in RAMPS 1.4, the D1 diode is now the diode closest to fuse F2. The same is true for RAMPS 1.5, also manufactured by BIQU/BIGTREETECH.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In other words, RAMPS 1.6 is pretty much the same as the 1.4 board. It just has some minor changes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for availability, I have found numerous listings for RAMPS 1.4 and RAMPS 1.6 on Amazon (US) and Ebay (US) for under $10.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="691" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:29:41.667" LastActivityDate="2020-02-15T23:33:35.020" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12017" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-02-16T00:22:46.807" Score="1" ViewCount="594" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an Up mini printer and the raft and supports are often really hard/seemingly impossible to remove from the model. I read that this could be because the Up prints at high temperatures, however, I adjusted according to the recommended value for my filament (ABS). I have tried the highs and lows of the recommended settings and still haven’t had much luck. I have also tried adjusting the distance between the nozzle and print bed. I would appreciate some help, especially from people with Up Minis. Thank you!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20127" LastActivityDate="2020-02-16T00:22:46.807" Title="Supports and raft hard to remove Up Mini Printer" Tags="|support-structures|rafts|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12018" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11988" CreationDate="2020-02-16T09:01:57.620" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you own a Raspberry Pi , you may first want to try Klipper firmware. This firmware does the heavy lifting on the RPi itself and sends commands to the printer board via USB. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My Ender 3 pro works much better with this firmware. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20056" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-02-17T09:58:12.797" LastActivityDate="2020-02-17T09:58:12.797" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12019" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11988" CreationDate="2020-02-17T07:29:02.840" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;RAMPS boards aren't really &quot;state-of-the-art&quot; anymore.&#xA;The newest version, the Ramps 1.6 Plus, at least supports drivers with UART / SPI communication though, which is required for most &quot;silent&quot; TMC drivers. &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/bigtreetech?utf8=%E2%9C%93&amp;amp;tab=repositories&amp;amp;q=ramps&amp;amp;type=&amp;amp;language=&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;BigTreeTech's GitHub&lt;/a&gt; still seems to miss schematics for it though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Marlin supports both modern 32-bit boards (SKR 1.3, SKR Pro, MKS SGEN L, Fysetc S6 etc.) as well as the older Arduino / AVR based boards (RAMPS, Fysetc F6, MKS GEN L etc.).&#xA;Out of those, I'd currently recommend the Fysetc S6 with TMC2209 or TMC5160 drivers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may also want to take a look at the Klipper firmware (&lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/12018/13171&quot;&gt;as mentioned in Puneit Thukral's answer&lt;/a&gt;).&#xA;It supports lots of such small features (&lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11988/upgrading-printer-controller?noredirect=1#comment21981_11988&quot;&gt;as mentioned in your comment&lt;/a&gt;), and you could also use multiple boards working together as one system, all controlled with a single Raspberry Pi.&#xA;It's based on Python modules, so it should be relatively easy to add features to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13171" LastActivityDate="2020-02-17T07:29:02.840" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12020" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12009" CreationDate="2020-02-17T14:45:33.740" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;First you need a single color png image, you can do this by opening the file in any image editor (even Paint included with Windows) and painting white over all the colored pixels (more advanced image editors maybe able to do this automatically). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then you can use OpenSCAD (free download from openscad.org), enter the following code: (obviously, replace the file path with your own)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;surface(&quot;C:\\Users\\Nir\\Documents\\test.png&quot;,center=true); &#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now press F5 (at this point you'll see a low quality preview), then F6 (to do a full render and view an high quality preview), then F7 to save the STL&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The resulting model will be higher then you want but you can scale the result STL in your slicer (or use the OpenSCAD scale command if you prefer code)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="170" LastActivityDate="2020-02-17T14:45:33.740" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12021" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11967" CreationDate="2020-02-17T15:07:09.737" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;there are a lot of variable at play here, when are there not in the 3D printing world. Given that I don’t know the answer to your question although very interested to learn how you solve it eventually I will mention the things you can do ,maybe you have to eliminate or identify what parameter is the fault cause.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Things I would eliminate - &#xA;1 bed temperature discrepancies - move the origin cycle of the print or rotate it to see that the problems are physical rather  than software. If the faults occur at the same place on a reoriented print then I would say you can eliminate nozzle and bed temps as well as material inconsistency.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;May also be worth trying the print from a different complier I often find a piece prints differently and there fore better from this or that printer app.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2 could cooling be the issue? What if you hold a heat gun on the extruded parts to slow down cooling I have done this on tricky parts to get better binding, could be similar issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3 print a raft or test piece and see what happens to transparency with heat - if the material properties change as a result of temperature you could investigate why the temp is changing at the points in the print that are relevant -&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not sure that these ideas are that original but the fewer variable you need to consider the faster you will work out what to do about the rouge one &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regards&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12416" LastActivityDate="2020-02-17T15:07:09.737" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12022" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11996" CreationDate="2020-02-17T16:13:16.303" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;For evaluating the extent of a surface flatness problem and success of a solution, a real machined straightedge and decent feeler gauges are a huge help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using them to measure where the problem was, I found that a not-perfectly-flat but non-rigid build surface like the one I have can be corrected with shims, at least as long as the underlying bed is not warped. I measured the error in the center of the build surface as very close to 0.1 mm, and placed a 24x24 mm square of 0.1 mm thickness blue tape on the aluminum bed under the removable build plate, then clipped it back on. Measuring again with the straightedge showed no significant inconsistencies.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a bonus, the feeler gauges are wonderful for height adjustment. After confirming flatness, I needed to re-level the build, and got it perfect on the first try with no trial-and-error feedback loop by homing the nozzle, then moving it to Z=0.1, and then at each adjustment point, adjusting until:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the 0.1 mm feeler gauge could slip under the nozzle with some pressure, but without compressing the spring, and&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the 0.15 mm feeler gauge could not slip under the nozzle without visibly lowering the bed and compressing the spring&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm still interested in other options that might be lower-maintenance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2020-02-17T16:13:16.303" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12023" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11996" CreationDate="2020-02-17T16:50:38.863" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Even with glass, some warping may still remain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One option is to use this procedure: &lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/0j9fa86jiv0?start=0&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically you first measure the flatness, then you add material below the bed to compensate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2338" LastActivityDate="2020-02-17T16:50:38.863" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12024" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-02-17T17:01:15.183" Score="1" ViewCount="1061" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am trying to make a pen plotter from scratch. I hooked up two scanners to form X and Y axis, and using a CD drive to lift the pen. I connected everything to Arduino Mega 2560 and RAMPS 1.4 shield with DRV8825 drivers. I tested everything using simple Arduino sketches that sent step signals. So far, so good, however, today I uploaded GRBL and downloaded Pronterface, to actually use G-code, but after successfully connecting on Pronterface to the port at the 115200 Baud rate, I am only getting &lt;code&gt;error: 20&lt;/code&gt; non stop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20137" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-02-17T18:29:46.917" LastActivityDate="2021-04-14T13:52:21.487" Title="Error: 20, non stop, while connected to Pronterface: no G-code uploaded yet" Tags="|g-code|pronterface|arduino|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12025" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12026" CreationDate="2020-02-17T20:35:35.440" Score="1" ViewCount="6397" Body="&lt;p&gt;I need to smooth some prints with silk PLA filament. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The silk PLA has a nice translucent effect but unfortunately if sanded results in an horrible matte finish regardless the sandpaper grade (I have tried with many grades). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since I don't have specific solvents or special equipment, and I don't want to paint it as well, I'm wondering if there are alternative ways to smooth the surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Also a my friend speculated about some heat treatment with hair dryer... never heard of something similar and I'm not sure if this could make sense, and in case how should I try).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20123" LastActivityDate="2020-02-17T21:26:23.770" Title="How to smooth PLA Prints without using sandpaper, solvents or paint" Tags="|pla|post-processing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12026" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12025" CreationDate="2020-02-17T21:26:23.770" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately, there is no way to smooth PLA without sandpaper, solvent or paint - but you can fix the finish after sanding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you heat the plastic after sanding to just the point the outer shell starts melting the horrible matte finish goes away and the original color of the plastic returns.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You have to heat the plastic and then remove the heat source just as it's start melting (right before the original color returns, so when you see it working it's too late) because otherwise the object will deform.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I use a heat gun set to 180C and work quickly in short bursts, an hair dryer is probably nowhere as hot, so it will take longer to heat the surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You have to do this after sanding, applying enough heat to smooth the layer lines will just cause the object to melt and deform.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Try on a few failed prints first, you will need to get the feel for when to stop heating and you will still probably ruin prints every once in a while. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another option is to coat the object in an epoxy that will hide the layer lines the best known brand for this is XTC-3D.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do decide to paint, you get extra thick primer that's supposed to fill the gaps between the layer lines so you don't need to sand as much (sorry, can't remember the brand name)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="170" LastActivityDate="2020-02-17T21:26:23.770" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12027" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13464" CreationDate="2020-02-17T22:00:07.827" Score="1" ViewCount="931" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm facing weird &quot;pillars&quot; of underextrusion on outer walls of my XYZ test cube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the pictures below I`ve printed PLA test cubes with a 0.4&amp;nbsp;mm nozzle, 0.2&amp;nbsp;mm height and 210/50&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C hotends/bed temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Gaps are appearing in walls parallel to both X and Y sides. The pictured side is parallel to Y face.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm slicing with Cura, my printer is a homebuilt around Anycubic Kossel with Marlin 2.0 onboard.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What have I tried already:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;1. Temperature from 190 to 210&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C&lt;br&gt;&#xA;2. Retraction from none to 6&amp;nbsp;mm 60&amp;nbsp;mm/sec&lt;br&gt;&#xA;3. Tuning down Jerk in Marlin from [10,10,0.3] to [5,5,0.3]&lt;br&gt;&#xA;4. Tuning down acceleration from 3000 to 1000&lt;br&gt;&#xA;5. Tuning print speed from 60 to 30&amp;nbsp;mm/sec&#xA;6. Checking belts, nozzle and extruder.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now I just ran out of ideas. Delta is calibrated by &lt;code&gt;G33&lt;/code&gt; autotune. Mechanics looks just fine. What am I missing?&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EUYpL.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EUYpL.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hJxp4.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hJxp4.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;UPD1&lt;/strong&gt;: tried removing combing - it did not help. But I noticed that my printer accelerates strangely at this parts&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;UPD2&lt;/strong&gt;: could it be stuttering? I have 320 segments per second with block buffer size of 8 bytes(?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;UPD3&lt;/strong&gt;: lowering segments count to 120 and raising block size to 32&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20141" LastEditorUserId="20141" LastEditDate="2020-02-19T21:25:02.893" LastActivityDate="2020-04-19T21:18:18.333" Title="Partial underextrusion in walls" Tags="|delta|kossel|underextrusion|skr-v1.3|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12028" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12027" CreationDate="2020-02-18T04:41:23.257" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Localized underextrusion usually means you're oozing material somewhere it wasn't supposed to go. Since you have Marlin 2.0, linear advance might help solve that, and in general right retraction amount is important and turning off combing may be needed (combing over infill allows material to ooze).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also there are reported bugs in Marlin 2.0 such as  &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/issues/15473&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/issues/15473&lt;/a&gt; that might be related, though I would think you'd not be using junction deviation since it's supposedly incompatible with deltas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2020-02-18T04:41:23.257" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12029" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8439" CreationDate="2020-02-18T16:59:29.713" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The following saved me from under extrusion on Ender 3 Pro.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Check the diameter of the material referenced and the nozzle parameter in your slicer (Cura, ...). Then re-slice.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If not sufficient, it may be a printer parameter issue. The extruder parameter is missconfigured: the stepper to filameter distance ratio is not correct and as a result, it does not feed the  requested length of filament.&#xA;To fix the printer parameter, send the following gcode sequence (use a G-code console like &quot;GCode Sender - Pronterface&quot;). &#xA;We will follow this procedure:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;ask to feed 100&amp;nbsp;mm of filament &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;mesure the actual length feeded&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;read the parameter inside the printer&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;write correct value.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;G-code: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;M83 ; set to extruder relative mode&#xA;; Be ready to mesure how much filament will really be consumed&#xA;G1 E100 F100 ; request 100 mm of filament&#xA;; Let &quot;L&quot; be the length in mm you mesured&#xA;; Now read the extruder related value in the printer&#xA;M503 ; and let &quot;V&quot; be the last number at line &quot;echo: M92&quot;&#xA;; Then set the correct value &#xA;M92 E{V*100/L}; Eg &quot;M92 E222&quot;&#xA;M500 ; write to memory&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20147" LastEditorUserId="20147" LastEditDate="2020-03-27T16:03:24.293" LastActivityDate="2020-03-27T16:03:24.293" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12031" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-02-18T18:35:27.023" Score="2" ViewCount="5746" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm using an Ender 3 Pro with stock heated bed &amp;amp; glass build surface on it (without any base of stock magnetic plate). My heated bed looks completely flat too despite of many uneven Ender 3 heated beds around.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But when bed temperature set to 70&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C and I check the temperature of bed with infrared laser thermometer gun, the front of the bed is around 72&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C and the back is around 64-68&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C. So the temperature is different at all sides and this looks like leading to warps too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any way to make it more even for all bed surface?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16714" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-02-18T21:18:38.603" LastActivityDate="2020-02-18T21:18:38.603" Title="Is there any way to correct uneven bed temperature?" Tags="|creality-ender-3|heated-bed|thermistor|glass-bed|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12032" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12031" CreationDate="2020-02-18T20:52:57.080" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had this exact issue with my Qidi X-Plus. After checking with a thermometer there was a spread of 9°C - enough to burn in (always the same) certain areas when printing at higher extremes of temperatures, or causing poor adhesion in other certain areas at lower temps. Very similar scenario too, I noticed this primarily when switching over to glass from the stock magnetic plate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My solution was quite straightforward - I set the bed temperature on the printer's control panel and preheated it before sending it a print. As long as I left it there for a solid 10 minutes after getting up to temperature it balanced within around 1°C. I observed far more consistent results from print to print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now I don't know your exact machine myself, so I don't know if this is possible on the control panel on an Ender 3. However if it's not, as an alternative possibly consider looking up how to stick a pause in the initial gcode in Cura to see if you can achieve the same effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19946" LastActivityDate="2020-02-18T20:52:57.080" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12033" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14032" CreationDate="2020-02-19T18:26:15.833" Score="4" ViewCount="8017" Body="&lt;p&gt;I run a 3D printer farm and I have to replace my Bowden tubes on the printers after about a month or two of use(roughly 1000 hours of use). The Bowden tubes continually melt on the side of the tube very near to where it pushes against the nozzle. I am running Ender 3 Pros and I run at about 205&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C with PLA. The Bowden tubes I have are some I found on Amazon and they are not Capricorn tubes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xnhmZ.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xnhmZ.png&quot; alt=&quot;Note how the hole is very near the base of the tube closest to the nozzle&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT1: I have added more pictures below of a new failure. This time you can see the marks of the teeth of the coupler a good inch below the failure point.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QPk6E.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QPk6E.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;New photo of tube 1&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/A3xXQ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/A3xXQ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;New photo of tube 2&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/P9l5a.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/P9l5a.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;New photo of tube 3&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PB7Ox.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PB7Ox.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;New potho of tube 4&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17480" LastEditorUserId="17480" LastEditDate="2020-03-06T20:03:21.213" LastActivityDate="2023-03-09T19:47:55.740" Title="What causes my Bowden tube to melt on the side?" Tags="|creality-ender-3|bowden|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12035" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12041" CreationDate="2020-02-19T20:27:11.243" Score="2" ViewCount="613" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there a software package that when I have my printer connected directly to my PC via USB could record and export hot end temperature data overtime?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ideally this data would be recorded in a way that I could export it and manipulate it in the likes of Excel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;E.g. I see Pronterface has a temperature graph but it doesn't seem possible to export this. I know Simplify3D has a temperature plot in the machine control panel, anyone know if you can export from this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19038" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-02-24T22:38:35.820" LastActivityDate="2020-02-24T22:38:35.820" Title="Software to record hot end temperature?" Tags="|software|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12036" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12033" CreationDate="2020-02-19T20:59:09.877" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the tube is PTFE, the tube is not likely to be melting unless your hotend temperature is out of control.  You would probably notice the PLA cooking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, perhaps they aren't PTFE, or perhaps it is wear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it wasn't PTFE, you should be able to tell by the texture, slipperiness, and bending force.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The four thinned faces look like they would correspond to four of the barbs in the connector.  The thinned ring below the four thinned faces look like a wear line where the tube is pressing against the exit of the connector.  It looks to me as if the tube is moving or flexing in the connector.  The barbs act as little chisels cutting into the tube, which is how they restrain such a slippery material as PTFE.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It might work better if the tube were a little longer.  This might reduce the forces at the limits of movement which may be placing strain on the tubes.  If you can, you might also fashion a strain relief for the tube so that it doesn't bend right as it exist from the connector. If you can cut down on the movement, you will help with the external wear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is also possible that the tubes are being strained by a high filament pressure.  All the drive to push filament into the hot end is matched by an equivalent reverse pressure from the tube onto the connector.  If you can stand a higher print temperature, the life of the tube may be increased.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;@towe added a comment:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I don't think those are marks from the teeth of the pneumatic coupler. The questions states &quot;where it pushes against the nozzle&quot;, and the Ender 3 Pro seems to have a hot-end where the Bowden tube reaches all the way through the cold end and heat break to the nozzle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A mechanical drawing of what may be a MK-10 hot-end as used on the Ender 3 Pro also suggests that the Ender 3 Pro has a PTFE lined hot end.  Lets accept that drawing as confirming that @towe is right.  Never-the-less, the marks you show in the photo look like the types of cuts I have seen from a pneumatic coupler.  How can we reconcile this contradiction?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The most direct answer would be that the tube is not reaching through to the nozzle.  In the photo you don't show enough of the blue tube to show the coupler scars which should be a little further up the tube.  Suppose that, in fact, the tube is not pressing against the nozzle.  This might not be the case if any of these are true:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There is a separate piece of PTFE that is permanently in hot end. &#xA;The Creality Ender 3 Pro looks as if&#xA;it is not configured for a Bowden feed.  A PTFE lined hot-end for a&#xA;direct extruder would have a piece of PTFE cut to length in the&#xA;hot-end.  A simple mod to make that a Bowden would leave that&#xA;sculpted PTFE tube in place.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The pneumatic couplers have been replaced.  Many couplers do not&#xA;permit the tube to pass through them, although the hole in the end&#xA;can be drilled to 4mm diameter.  In fact, preventing the tube from&#xA;passing through a pneumatic coupler is a feature in the intended&#xA;application of coupling to air tubes in moderate pressure&#xA;applications.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There is a bump in the path that is catching the  tube and&#xA;preventing it from extending through to the cold end and onward.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2082" LastEditorUserId="2082" LastEditDate="2020-02-20T14:44:41.790" LastActivityDate="2020-02-20T14:44:41.790" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12037" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11591" CreationDate="2020-02-19T21:17:41.470" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had quite a few Ender 3's with magnetic beds and I did start to notice the cracks on the underside with use. To stop the cracks from appearing so soon you should avoid excessive bending of the mat. Any time where you are bending the mat near 90&amp;deg;s or so is when you will start to cause those stress forces that cause the crackling you see. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I would like to point out that the bed is still quite usable and should not need to be replaced until it no longer adheres to the build plate firmly. I would also point out that most Ender 3's that I've dealt with needed to be upgraded to glass beds for superior flatness and consistent bed adhesion. I recommend upgrading if you do decide to spend money on ned beds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17480" LastActivityDate="2020-02-19T21:17:41.470" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12038" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10214" CreationDate="2020-02-19T23:41:06.467" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Armadillo by Ninjatek is perfect with 100&amp;nbsp;% infill and 6 layers 6 walls and 6 the other thing? As a foot pharmacist I can say the cost is associated with the education as pedorthic modalities are different to each person.  Ideally it would be easy to 3D print arch supports,  but it would also be easy to &quot;hurt&quot; the person wearing them.  buy a book on pedorthics before u wear them!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20161" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-02-20T07:14:57.307" LastActivityDate="2020-02-20T07:14:57.307" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12039" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-02-20T02:12:28.100" Score="0" ViewCount="65" Body="&lt;p&gt;Today I noticed some weird holes/deformities on the surface of this simple usb holder I printed. Since I'm fairly new to 3d printing I have no idea what may be the cause of this problem&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My printer is a Ender 3 (Marlin 2.0.3) and I'm using Cura for slicing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pics:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3E9el.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3E9el.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Picture 01&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1WcJT.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1WcJT.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It would be a great help if someone could give me some pointers on how to fix this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20162" LastEditorUserId="20162" LastEditDate="2020-02-20T02:20:21.117" LastActivityDate="2020-02-20T02:20:21.117" Title="Weird deformities on surfaces with ender 3" Tags="|print-quality|creality-ender-3|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="4" ClosedDate="2020-02-22T17:09:52.930" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12040" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12052" CreationDate="2020-02-20T06:40:11.417" Score="3" ViewCount="258" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to do a multifilament print on my single extruder machine. So I separated out the models based on filament, and imported the parts into Cura. I ensured that &quot;Automatically drop models to build plate&quot; was disabled and in the &quot;Prepare&quot; phase that seems to work. However, when I slice the model it gets pushed back down to the build plate as can be seen in the picture below. Any recommendations? Do I just need to write a script to go in and shift the z location?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DptKY.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DptKY.png&quot; alt=&quot;Preview&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19739" LastEditorUserId="19739" LastEditDate="2020-02-20T13:42:17.260" LastActivityDate="2020-02-22T06:03:52.960" Title="Cura projecting floating print onto build plate during slicing" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|multi-material|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12041" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12035" CreationDate="2020-02-20T07:30:51.613" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't know if using OctoPrint is an option. If so, there is a &lt;a href=&quot;https://plugins.octoprint.org/plugins/tempsgraph/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;plugin&lt;/a&gt; that claims to do exactly this. And you could probably find a few more if you looked for them. Note that I have no first hand experience with this plugin, but I can vouch for OctoPrint being convenient and by default it shows a temperature graph.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It might even be relatively easy to write your &lt;a href=&quot;https://docs.octoprint.org/en/master/plugins/gettingstarted.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;own plugin&lt;/a&gt; to accomplish this. This will mostly depend on your comfort with coding in Python/JavaScript.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a sidenote: if your printer is connected directly to your computer via USB, chances are pretty high it is a simple serial connection. Having multiple programs use this connection at once is not possible as far as I know. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This implies that you will not be able to have your current software send it G-code lines while having another one recording the temperature values sent back from the printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19305" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-02-20T13:06:13.307" LastActivityDate="2020-02-20T13:06:13.307" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12042" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7597" CreationDate="2020-02-20T14:58:37.580" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you converted a printer from direct to Bowden feed, it is possible that the cold side of the hot end is too hot, and you are suffering from heat creap.  Simple, less expensive printers often use the extruder stepper and the extruder stepper mount as part of the cooling system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If there is any sort of a heat-sink on the cold side of the hot-end, try to rig a fan to blow through the heat sink.  If there isn't a heat sink, find one and add it.  Heat sinks made for round transistor cases can sometime be fitted to the cold side.  A little heat sink great, a couple of transistor heat sinks, and a fan may completely solve your problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2082" LastActivityDate="2020-02-20T14:58:37.580" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12043" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-02-20T15:19:08.533" Score="1" ViewCount="72" Body="&lt;p&gt;After an a object is formed through direct laser sintering, as a post-processing procedure the object is sent for hot-isostatic pressing, In hot isostatic pressing the sintered object is placed in a mold and then pressure and heat are applied.&#xA;I was wondering what would go wrong if the bare object without the mold was made to undergo pressing? Remember the sintered object already has a shape acquired during sintering so it may need a mold to get a specific shape during pressing. My assumption- In hot isostatic pressing the object might get softened and hence deformed due to heat and thus the requirement of a mold to keep the object firm. Is this assumption true??&#xA;And apart from deformation are there any other undesirable effects caused to the un-molded object during hot isostatic pressing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20073" LastActivityDate="2020-02-20T15:19:08.533" Title="Why is a mold required in isostatic pressing after performing Sintering" Tags="|post-processing|laser|metal-printing|metal-parts|printing-powder|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12044" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-02-20T20:33:45.023" Score="0" ViewCount="242" Body="&lt;p&gt;I’ve been having all kinds of trouble with really every part of the print procedure on my Lulzbot Mini 2 that comes before the actual extrusion starts. I think I can get around 90&amp;nbsp;% of my issues if I just ran a level X axis at the start then input a manual Z calibration level.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried stripping out the nozzle wipe and autolevel commands from the beginning of the G-code but then the printer started the job about a centimeter above the bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know how I can safely correct my Z-offset?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm currently using Lulzbot Cura but am planning to switch to Ultimaker Cura once I've got test prints going again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a z-offset that can be set using the physical printer UI but I suspect this isn't the setting I should be trying to alter as theoretically it should be pretty close to right since my vanilla Lulzbot Cura gcodes used to work and I haven't changed that value. Am I wrong on this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13342" LastEditorUserId="13342" LastEditDate="2020-02-20T21:39:39.297" LastActivityDate="2020-02-20T21:39:39.297" Title="Trying to remove autolevel from G-code - offset from bed not correct" Tags="|marlin|g-code|firmware|lulzbot|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12045" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12047" CreationDate="2020-02-21T00:47:55.110" Score="0" ViewCount="75" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am looking for a cheap 3d printer that can print this: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1307100&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1307100&lt;/a&gt; and is hopefully under US $200, such as the Creality Ender 3, Monoprice Select Mini Pro and V2, the Wanhao Duplicator i3 mini, the Anet A8, or the tronxy p802ma.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20169" LastActivityDate="2020-02-21T05:23:14.403" Title="3d printer recommendations that can print fidgets?" Tags="|creality-ender-3|anet-a8|wanhao|monoprice-select-mini|tronxy-p802|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2020-02-21T22:30:16.487" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12046" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-02-21T02:07:04.657" Score="2" ViewCount="974" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am Attempting to print this, from Blender&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kKdun.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kKdun.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;But Cura decides to fill in the middle part of the model. &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1fj3T.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1fj3T.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;I exported and imported the model from an STL file.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If anyone can answer this, that would be greatly appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20170" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2020-07-13T10:31:50.557" LastActivityDate="2021-02-18T04:52:17.950" Title="Cura Filling holes from a model from Blender" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|anycubic-i3-mega|blender|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12047" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12045" CreationDate="2020-02-21T03:55:51.237" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Pretty much any recent commercially available 3D printer should be able to print that model. Only really old stuff, or poorly built DIY machines, might have trouble. It may take some tuning of slicing settings to avoid problems with the rings bonding together during printing, but a more expensive printer is unlikely to make the tuning any easier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The printers you listed in the question are probably all decent choices. I have an Ender 3 and like it but it's a little over \$200. There are some printers well under \$200, like the Monoprice Mini Delta, but I don't have any experience with them and product recommendations are off-topic here anyway. Also keep in mind that you'll have to spend a little bit on consumables, at least one spool of filament that's typically around \$20 (slightly cheaper for no-name brands, much higher for fancy color/shine/etc. or special materials, but simple PLA should be fine for what you want).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastEditorUserId="11157" LastEditDate="2020-02-21T05:23:14.403" LastActivityDate="2020-02-21T05:23:14.403" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12048" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12049" CreationDate="2020-02-21T08:17:02.820" Score="1" ViewCount="963" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've created a model in Sketchup and exported the file as a .stl&#xA;Since the model is 80cm x 24 cm i need to cut it in meshmixer. But when i open it in meshmixer it appears tiny. Why doesn't it open as the real size?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20171" LastActivityDate="2020-02-21T08:50:12.967" Title="Meshmixer size of model" Tags="|meshmixer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12049" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12048" CreationDate="2020-02-21T08:40:11.080" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You mention your dimensions in cm. Any chance that the STL export is also in cm where Meshmixer might expect mm?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Assuming your Sketchup template was set to cm:&lt;/em&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;To validate this guess you could measure/eyeball a known dimension and if that comes out to be 10 times too small you could scale your model by 10 times.&#xA;Alternatively you could adjust the template in Sketchup.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additional information on STL files:&#xA;By it's very nature, the STL file format is just a bunch of unitless numbers in a well defined structure. This structure represents a set of points (vertices), lines (edges) and and triangular surfaces (facet). A few simple rules apply to exactly how all this should be defined. (&lt;a href=&quot;https://all3dp.com/what-is-stl-file-format-extension-3d-printing/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;See here&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But the key thing here is that an STL file is &lt;strong&gt;not aware of units&lt;/strong&gt;, the program used to generate the STL file (e.g. CAD software) needs to be told what units to use, and accordingly the reading program (e.g. slicer) needs to use the same settings. Generally in mechanics applications we default to mm, at least in metric land. All this is explained a bit more verbose &lt;a href=&quot;https://wps3dprinter.wordpress.com/designing/stl-units/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19305" LastEditorUserId="19305" LastEditDate="2020-02-21T08:50:12.967" LastActivityDate="2020-02-21T08:50:12.967" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12050" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-02-22T02:14:08.137" Score="3" ViewCount="299" Body="&lt;p&gt;One frustration I have with Cura is that it has no way to set print speed in terms of a volumetric extrusion rate, when extrusion rate is the main physical limiting factor for how fast you can print. It's a pain having to have different speed profiles for different layer heights (and doesn't work with adaptive layers!), different line widths, different materials, etc. I'd like to just set a feedrate limit on the extruder axis, which would achieve this and make it easy to switch already-sliced models between different materials. However, having a low extruder feedrate limit would make retraction and recovery from retraction incredibly slow, to the point of being unusable - since I've found quality so much better without combing, I now have &lt;em&gt;a lot&lt;/em&gt; of retractions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm thinking about building Marlin with support for firmware retraction in hopes that the firmware-retract command can ignore the configured extruder feedrate limit to still do rapid retract/restore, but I don't want to waste a lot of time on it if that doesn't work. Can anyone with experience with this feature confirm whether it ignores the normal extruder feedrate limit? Or, if you have experience with a similar configuration, can you share results on how well it worked?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2022-03-13T21:04:35.427" Title="Extusion rate limiting and firmware retract" Tags="|marlin|speed|retraction|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12051" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12059" CreationDate="2020-02-22T02:34:52.363" Score="3" ViewCount="19398" Body="&lt;p&gt;Recently I've been having trouble printing properly on my Creality Ender-3 printer. I ran a pretty long print (approx. 15 hours) that turned out really well. I then started printing an attachment for the original print and saw that it was printing layers that were extremely thin.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I first scraped off the excess filament left on the extruder nozzle. Then, I heated up the bed and rubbed off the layer with alcohol. I tried printing it again but it still didn't print right.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thin layer&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/z4wh5.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/z4wh5.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Thin layer&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Weird thing&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jUTgb.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jUTgb.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Weird thing&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the images above, you can tell it's noticeably hard to see the layer, which shows just how thin it is.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I sliced the model in Ultimaker Cura. I set the layer height to 0.15&amp;nbsp;mm. I've printed models before with this height but the layer wasn't transparent.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What should I do to fix this issue?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20177" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-02-23T07:20:46.847" LastActivityDate="2020-02-23T19:50:02.783" Title="Issue with 3D printer making super thin layers" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|creality-ender-3|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12052" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12040" CreationDate="2020-02-22T06:03:52.960" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been playing with this and came up with a solution, so I thought I would share in case anyone else had this issue in the future. In Ultimaker Cura I enabled supports and z-hopping before I sliced the part, then I ran this Python function to remove the supports and get the extruder setup.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;import re&#xA;&#xA;def float_part(file):&#xA;    printString = ';LAYER:'&#xA;    partString = ';(.*?).stl'&#xA;&#xA;    with open( file , 'r') as content_file:&#xA;        content = content_file.read()&#xA;&#xA;    printArea = re.search( printString , content ).span(0)[0]&#xA;    partArea = re.search( partString , content ).span(0)[0]&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;    uncommentedLine = partArea - re.search( '\n.*?(?&amp;lt;!;)\n' , content[ partArea:printArea:-1 ] ).span(0)[0]&#xA;&#xA;    lastExtrusion = uncommentedLine - re.search( 'E' , content[ uncommentedLine:printArea:-1 ] ).span(0)[0]&#xA;    secondLastExtrusion = lastExtrusion - re.search( 'E' , content[ lastExtrusion-1:printArea:-1 ] ).span(0)[0]&#xA;&#xA;    lastExtrusionAmount = float(re.search( '\d+(\.\d+)?', content[lastExtrusion:] ).group(0))&#xA;    secondLastExtrusionAmount = float(re.search( '\d+(\.\d+)?', content[secondLastExtrusion:] ).group(0))&#xA;&#xA;    ResetCommand = '\nG92 E' + str(lastExtrusionAmount) + '\n'&#xA;&#xA;    with open( file , 'w') as content_file:&#xA;        content_file.write( content[0:printArea] + ResetCommand + content[uncommentedLine:] )&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Hs8Ld.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Hs8Ld.png&quot; alt=&quot;Elevated part&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19739" LastActivityDate="2020-02-22T06:03:52.960" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12053" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-02-22T17:53:48.970" Score="0" ViewCount="118" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a new Ender 3 Pro.  I set it up and everything seems to work. I configured as such that the nozzle is only a sheet of paper apart from the bed. When I go to print, the extruder raises 2-3&amp;nbsp;mm and starts printing, which doesn't stick to the bed and all I get is a mess. Bed is set to 60&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C and hotend to 210&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20183" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-02-23T07:35:52.287" LastActivityDate="2020-02-23T07:35:52.287" Title="Ender 3Pro Calibration problem" Tags="|creality-ender-3|calibration|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12054" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12050" CreationDate="2020-02-22T18:45:11.043" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sadly this does not work at present. Setting an &lt;code&gt;M203 E3&lt;/code&gt; resulted in 6 mm retractions via &lt;code&gt;G10&lt;/code&gt; taking 2 seconds each vs the fraction of a second they're supposed to take.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since it seems desirable for this to work, I've filed &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/issues/16927&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;a Marlin issue&lt;/a&gt; to see if it's intentional or something that can be fixed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In principle, &lt;code&gt;G10&lt;/code&gt; firmware retractions still make it easier to script a soluton (replacing each &lt;code&gt;G10&lt;/code&gt; or &lt;code&gt;G11&lt;/code&gt; by a sequence of &lt;code&gt;M203&lt;/code&gt;, &lt;code&gt;G10&lt;/code&gt;/&lt;code&gt;G11&lt;/code&gt;, &lt;code&gt;M203&lt;/code&gt; to set E-axis speed then reset it around the operation) but this is less friendly to direct usage of same sliced files with different extrusion speed limits.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2020-02-22T18:45:11.043" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12055" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12051" CreationDate="2020-02-23T07:30:03.620" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If your first layer is more thin than you expect it to be, the bed is too close to the nozzle. Note that you need to check the level an bed-to-nozzle distance once every few prints. Also, the first layer shouldn't be a too thin layer, the Cura default for a 0.4&amp;nbsp;mm nozzle is about 0.28&amp;nbsp;mm. Personally, I always use 0.2&amp;nbsp;mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The best solution is to re-slice the model with a thicker first layer. Next, re-level the bed to the proper distance of an A4/US Letter printing paper. You should feel some drag when you pull it between nozzle and bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other solutions that also work include the redefinition of the Z=0 level, but this is not advised. Please fix the hardware.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-02-23T12:26:54.793" LastActivityDate="2020-02-23T12:26:54.793" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12056" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-02-23T11:40:15.093" Score="4" ViewCount="7519" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been trying to find a solution to a problem I've been having recently whereby the bottom layers of my print (1.2&amp;nbsp;mm; 12 layers) are either being compressed. over extruded or both. The problem results in the nozzle being dragged through previously extruded filament leaving deep groove marks and the bottom layers being risen/wavy, thus causing (I believe) the print layers to expand horizontally outwards &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Settings are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Anycubic Chiron &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;0.1&amp;nbsp;mm layer height&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;200&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C hotends temperature&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;55&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C bed temperature&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;40&amp;nbsp;mm/s print speed&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;eSun black 1.75&amp;nbsp;mm PLA&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cura 4.4.1&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's less noticeable on less intrinsic prints but for my &lt;a href=&quot;https://forums.eagle.ru/showthread.php?t=260512&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;latest project&lt;/a&gt;, its becoming a real issue. The problem is that for the square holes for the buttons (of which there are a lot), the bottom layers are extruding (essentially elephants foot-ing) which is impacting the tolerances of the build (holes should be 13&amp;nbsp;mm to accept 12.5&amp;nbsp;mm square buttons but are coming out at ~12.7&amp;nbsp;mm only on the bottom layer, I've measured the walls of the square holes and they're coming out perfectly).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've tried almost everything I can think of/find on Google: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Levelling the bed (multiple times)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tried print temps from 190&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C to 210&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C (even printed a temp tower which confirmed printing at ~200&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C is correct for my filament (eSun black PLA)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Calibrated the extruder&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Calibrated the Z-axis &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Set different horizontal expansion settings in Cura&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Reduced entire print flow rates (have tried 90&amp;nbsp;%, 85&amp;nbsp;% and 80&amp;nbsp;%); this somewhat worked but produced problems elsewhere in the print due to lack of material (skin overlap etc.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Used the 'modify settings for overlap' mesh setting to reduce infill flow &amp;amp; inner wall flow to 45&amp;nbsp;% and 55&amp;nbsp;% respectively for the bottom layers (up to 1.2&amp;nbsp;mm). &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The last point in that list is where I've had the most success but it does leave a slight indentation around the outer wall until the full flow rate kicks in (i.e. &gt;1.2&amp;nbsp;mm) and I'm thinking there may be other things at play that are causing the issue and I shouldn't have to do this reduce bottom layer flow so much if at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has anyone seen this before?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20189" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-02-24T05:45:41.463" LastActivityDate="2021-08-21T12:37:25.753" Title="Bottom Layer Compression (over extrusion) - Can't get rid of it" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|anycubic-chiron|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12057" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-02-23T13:12:25.933" Score="1" ViewCount="1914" Body="&lt;p&gt;I usually unload filament using the extruder motor, with the nozzle around 30&amp;nbsp;°C below the filament's print temperature. Despite this, often a significant amount of filament is left in the nozzle, and the filament comes out with a long stringy tip.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Does this suggest that the procedure might be leaving deposits of melted filament outside of the melt zone (potentially leading to blockages)? and if so,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What sequence of temperature/movement controls would be most likely to remove or mitigate the risk of deposits?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am familiar with the “cold pull” technique, but I am looking for the best strategy for a solution using the printer's controls.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I usually extrude a quantity of cleaning filament when changing filaments, though I'm not sure whether this would also clean any deposits outside the melt zone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have seen a procedure called &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/prusa3d/PrusaSlicer/blob/4ba7cb7ede85b4504d5fc6eac269e26e21c2a000/src/libslic3r/GCode/WipeTower.cpp#L958&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;“cooling moves” in the Prusa Slicer code&lt;/a&gt;. I understand this is intended to produce a cleaner filament tip upon unloading in a multi-material scenario, and I wonder whether a similar strategy should be employed for regular unloading, although I am unable to tell from the code what exactly is happening.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am using a genuine E3D V6 hotend and a Bondtech BMG Extruder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8264" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-02-24T08:17:03.950" LastActivityDate="2020-02-26T07:50:20.377" Title="How to unload filament as cleanly as possible using the extruder motor?" Tags="|extruder|fdm|retraction|change-filament|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12059" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12051" CreationDate="2020-02-23T19:50:02.783" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;You need to level you bed.  Thin prints happen when the extruder is too low and is printing too close to the bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ybFIO.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ybFIO.png&quot; alt=&quot;Example of printing levels&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Download the following test codes from this address:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.chepclub.com/bed-level.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.chepclub.com/bed-level.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) The first code is the most important you will want to run moves the extruder to five points on your board - Front Left and Right, Back Left and Right, and Center.  Using a folded piece of paper - I use a business card - drag the paper under extruder of each of the four corners.  You want to make sure you get a bit of drag when pulling out the paper/card.  If you feel have enough of a gap that you can run put the paper/card under the extruder and that you feel a bit of tug when pulling it out.  It runs the middle last - if you are having issue with the drag, adjust all four corners slowly until it is right.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) The second runs the extruder in a square pattern on your board.  You simply want to run your finger of the print - if it sticks to the bed, you are good - if it doesn't, adjust your corners up and keep testing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20192" LastActivityDate="2020-02-23T19:50:02.783" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12060" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-02-24T01:47:47.720" Score="1" ViewCount="64" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking for a way to have different bed adhesion for different models in the same print. My question is similar to &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/7907/setting-up-a-brim-raft-for-only-a-portion-of-the-overall-print&quot;&gt;this question&lt;/a&gt;, but I'm using Simplify3D.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have an STL file that contains many different parts, and most of it prints fine except for a few small pieces which end up not sticking to the bed. I'd like to add bed adhesion for just the small parts while leaving the rest of the parts alone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I started by splitting the STL file into smaller pieces with &quot;Separate Connected Surfaces&quot; then proceeded to make two separate print profiles, the first one for the majority of the parts with &quot;Use Skirt/Brim&quot; set to defaults (Skirt Layers 2, Skirt Offset from Part 4.00&amp;nbsp;mm, Skirt Outlines 2) and the second one for just the small parts with &quot;Use Skirt/Brim&quot; set to create adhesion (Skirt Layers 2, Skirt Offset from Part 0.00&amp;nbsp;mm, and Skirt Outlines 10).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've then set the two processes to use their respective parts. When I go to print just the small parts alone I'm able to see the bed adhesion:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GzjDi.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GzjDi.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But if I attempt to print with all of the parts in the same print, the bed adhesion seems to drop down from 10 outlines to just 2 outlines but is still hugging the smaller parts. So it's like it took part of the settings (&quot;Skirt Outlines&quot;) from one process and another part of the settings (&quot;Skirt Offset from Part&quot;) from the other process to generate the final print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zcLMj.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zcLMj.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I'm looking for is how to have separate build adhesion for separate parts in the same print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20193" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-02-24T05:43:31.020" LastActivityDate="2020-02-24T05:43:31.020" Title="Per-Model Bed Adhesion in Simplify3D" Tags="|creality-ender-3|adhesion|simplify3d|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12061" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12057" CreationDate="2020-02-24T07:42:50.583" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's a bit of a compromise here:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Filament cohesion in the nozzle isn't strong enough to remove all residue at higher temperature&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Extruder motors can't get sufficient grip / don't have sufficient torque for filament extraction at lower temperatures&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That means you'll always have to purge some of the old filament when changing to a new filament.&#xA;To easily remove the old filament, you'd want to fill the nozzle, so that there's no large plug of filament that might get stuck in the Bowden tube (as suggested in &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/12057/how-to-unload-filament-as-cleanly-as-possible-using-the-extruder-motor#comment22143_12057&quot;&gt;a comment by Rosalie W&lt;/a&gt;), then pull the old filament out; and then purge the nozzle after inserting the new filament.&#xA;How much you'll need to purge depends a bit on the filament and its color, but I'd guess 50&amp;nbsp;mm should be sufficient in most cases.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As G-code, this might look something like that:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;;Unloading&#xA;G91 ;relative movement&#xA;G1 E5 F300 ;fill nozzle&#xA;G1 E-300 F3000 ;unload filament, 300 = Bowden length + hotend length&#xA;G90 ;absolute movement&#xA;&#xA;;Loading&#xA;G91 ;relative movement&#xA;G1 E295 F3000 ;load filament&#xA;G1 E55 F200 ; purge filament&#xA;G90 ;absolute movement&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13171" LastEditorUserId="13171" LastEditDate="2020-02-26T07:50:20.377" LastActivityDate="2020-02-26T07:50:20.377" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12062" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-02-24T11:57:48.897" Score="2" ViewCount="128" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an old air conditioner and most of the vent flaps/louvres are missing. I've modelled it in Solidworks, but can it be printed? Are the tips too small for 3D printers? It's about 14&amp;nbsp;cm long end-to-end.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QrhaN.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QrhaN.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's the drawing sheet (dimensions are in mm):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EkpBE.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EkpBE.png&quot; alt=&quot;Air conditioner Louvre door&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20196" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-02-24T17:37:51.767" LastActivityDate="2020-02-27T05:28:08.887" Title="Can this part be 3D printed?" Tags="|print-quality|3d-models|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12063" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12062" CreationDate="2020-02-24T12:49:28.373" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Dimension-wise it's probably ok.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to print it as a single piece it would be quite challenging because of the cylinders, overhangs and bridges present in multiple directions: overhangs and bridges result in lower quality and precision, while cylinders can be printed nicely only when their axis is vertical.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However I see that you could easily split the component into multiple parts, each one of which could be printed optimally.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can glue the different parts together and you are done, see &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6723/what-glues-for-pla&quot;&gt;What glues for PLA?&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11953/what-glues-to-use-for-petg&quot;&gt;What glues to use for PETG?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2338" LastActivityDate="2020-02-24T12:49:28.373" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12064" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-02-24T20:17:37.117" Score="1" ViewCount="1019" Body="&lt;p&gt;Maybe this is a stupid question, but is 1&amp;nbsp;kg of plastic pellets equivalent to 1&amp;nbsp;kg of filament? I want to extrude my own filament using recycled plastic pellets. I want to know the cost of my material in general, so I was wondering if 1&amp;nbsp;kg of plastic pellets result in 1&amp;nbsp;kg of filament (regular spool)? How much plastic pellets are needed get 1&amp;nbsp;kg of filament?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20207" LastEditorUserId="5683" LastEditDate="2020-02-25T14:27:30.907" LastActivityDate="2020-02-25T14:27:30.907" Title="How much plastic pellets does it take to make 1 kg of filament? (making my own 3D filaments)" Tags="|filament|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12065" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12069" CreationDate="2020-02-24T20:46:31.447" Score="1" ViewCount="611" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've setup OctoPrint with the goal to log temperature data of my hot end. So, I've enable serial logging and examined the serial log file.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The Output for an example line is as follows:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Send: M105&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Recv: ok T:20.7 /50.0 B:20.0 /0.0 T0:20.7 /0.0 @:0 B@:0&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;So, from what I understand:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;T = Thermistor temp of hot end °C&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;In the example, current temp is 20.7 and target temp is 50.0&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;B = temp of bed °C&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;In the example, current temp is 20.0 and target temp is 0.0&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But what is T0?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or the @ and B@?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19038" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:29:41.667" LastActivityDate="2020-02-25T08:08:51.790" Title="In OctoPrint when receiving temperature data (M105) what is T0?" Tags="|octoprint|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12066" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12064" CreationDate="2020-02-24T20:51:04.593" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you ignore losses due to production machinery, your one kilogram of pellets will provide you with nearly one kilogram of filament. There may be some small loss of material stuck in the auger and drips from the nozzle and any place you discover plastic that is not on the spool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How many plastic pellets does it take to make one kilogram of filament? One kilogram plus a bit more. If you are asking about the numerical quantity of pellets, how much does one pellet weigh? Are they large pellets or small pellets?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastActivityDate="2020-02-24T20:51:04.593" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12067" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-02-24T21:47:23.430" Score="2" ViewCount="522" Body="&lt;p&gt;My problem is that I have used a 3D printing machine from the University and found out that the cover for the car was not smooth even after using sanding paper and painting it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What material would work best to print  the cover of the Cyber truck. I want it to be light and smooth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have to print it from any online companies that have this service here in Germany.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20208" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2020-02-25T07:51:02.290" LastActivityDate="2020-02-25T17:49:51.787" Title="Finding the right material to print RC CAR cover" Tags="|filament-choice|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12068" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12067" CreationDate="2020-02-24T22:22:54.883" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have 3D printed models which were then sanded using progressively finer grades of sandpaper, terminating with wet sanding using micromesh to 12000 grit. The result was smooth and shining without any coating applied.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your original results were not acceptable, the process may have been flawed and should be re-considered for technique.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For your purposes, as a body for a radio controlled vehicle, you'll want to consider something that can manage an impact reasonably well. ABS is going to be less expensive and provide some energy absorption but will have layer lines that require sanding and finishing. Layer thickness plays a substantial part in providing for good results and a smooth finish. I used 0.100 mm layers to get optimum smoothness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could request your model to be created in nylon using the SLS method, but the surface will be granular and would also require sanding to accomplish a smooth finish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;SLA or MSLA resin printed models will provide a very smooth surface, but the material is brittle and may crack during &quot;on-road&quot; use. You may find a printing service which offers to create using a more flexible resin, but you'd have to request that or confirm the selection when placing the order.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastActivityDate="2020-02-24T22:22:54.883" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12069" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12065" CreationDate="2020-02-24T22:52:57.697" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;code&gt;T&lt;/code&gt; is the selected tool, &lt;code&gt;T0&lt;/code&gt; is the first hotend tool. If you only have one hotend, &lt;code&gt;T&lt;/code&gt; and &lt;code&gt;T0&lt;/code&gt; are exactly the same. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do note that G-codes are described on the &lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/wiki/G-code&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;G-code wiki page&lt;/a&gt;, for &lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#M105:_Get_Extruder_Temperature&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;code&gt;M105&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/a&gt; you can find:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The parameters mean the following:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;   - T, T0, ..., Tn - extruder temperature. In a single extruder setup, only T will be reported. Some firmware variants will report no T0 in multi extruder setups - in that case T is to be considered the temperature of the first tool. Otherwise, T should be considered the temperature of the currently selected tool (which will be repeated in one of the Tn entries)&lt;br&gt;&#xA;   - B - bed temperature&lt;br&gt;&#xA;   - C - chamber temperature&lt;br&gt;&#xA;   - @ - Hotend power (Prusa only)&#xA;   - B@ - Bed power (Prusa only)&lt;br&gt;&#xA;   - P - PINDAv2 actual (Prusa MK2.5/s MK3/s only)&lt;br&gt;&#xA;   - A - Ambient actual (Prusa MK3/s only)&lt;br&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2020-02-24T22:52:57.697" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12070" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-02-25T10:05:10.763" Score="1" ViewCount="741" Body="&lt;p&gt;A while a go I thought that I could try printing in Nylon on my Wanhao Duplicator i3 with full metal hotend. Boy, was I wrong: The filament was not dry and popped like foam. The platform (Buildtak) was not sticking at all (at any temperature), I had the cooling fan at 100&amp;nbsp;%, so the bits that stuck to the platform warped like the Enterprise. &#xA;I learned that a filament dryer, an enclosure, Gaolite and PVA glue will be my friends, but I am determined to not spend a lot of money to printing something that I don't need often. (PLA works fine for me)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am now at the point that I dry my filament by leaving a roll of nylon on the heated buildplatform at 90&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C. It stopped popping and hissing, so I guess that works. I learned that nylon sticks to cellulose, so without needing to recalibrate I can tape a piece of printer paper to the build platform and it sticks like crazy! Extra bonus is that if it warps, the paper curls up slightly and keeps the print from falling off. I have only printed a single test piece until now, so I can't really say if it's to be recommended. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has anybody used these methods (drying nylon on heated build surface and printing nylon on paper) too and have you found any downsides? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To make this a worthy stackoverflow question: &lt;strong&gt;&quot;Can I dry nylon on my heated build platform and print nylon on paper?&quot;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4708" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-02-25T22:15:14.977" LastActivityDate="2020-05-30T15:00:08.427" Title="Any experience with nylon drying on heated build platform and printing on paper?" Tags="|heated-bed|nylon|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12071" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-02-25T13:59:37.933" Score="0" ViewCount="245" Body="&lt;p&gt;I designed a part on Fusion 360 that looks like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OUPqN.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OUPqN.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The part is very small, about 20&amp;nbsp;mm for 10&amp;nbsp;mm. I'm then importing it to Cura and I notice they are huge cracks on the part when simulating/previewing the print, I'm using a Monoprice mini printer, 100&amp;nbsp;% infill, and 0.0437&amp;nbsp;mm.: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XC2Lg.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XC2Lg.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is my first-time 3D printing something, so maybe (most probably) I did something wrong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20211" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-02-25T20:58:42.383" LastActivityDate="2020-02-25T20:58:42.383" Title="Big cracks on the Layer view in the Preview mode of Cura" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|slicing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12072" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-02-25T14:26:25.047" Score="4" ViewCount="192" Body="&lt;p&gt;My model is a keycap for mechanical keyboards. There is the cap itself, and a stem with a hole in the form of a cross, which fits the switches themselves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/r0Xxb.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/r0Xxb.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Print at bottom, the other caps are reference&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DkBxu.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DkBxu.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Bottom view&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I print in the same position as it is intended to be used, top up. This means that the stem and the cap are not connected until quite a few print layers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To prevent the stem from falling off during the print (it has a small footprint), I created connectors in the first layers, to hold it in place.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MXDEn.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MXDEn.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The issue: it seems like all my prints have a rotation of the stem, compared to the cap. It probably rather is the cross-shaped hole, or its walls, that are not completely symmetrical. I do not think it is only the edges against the printing bed that are the cause, since I have trimmed them with a scalpel. The rotation is always in the same direction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The twist is detectable when watching the keycap with the switch, and more so with keycaps on switches on a keyboard plate (you can see that the edges of the caps do not align. They do in my CAD program):&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0aJ5S.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0aJ5S.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Bottom view with switch&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nvUvU.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nvUvU.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I use Cura as my slicer, layer height 0.06 mm, and ABS. I attempted a slow print (30 mm/s), which didn't help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first work-around that comes to mind is to measure the twist and compensate for that in my model. But I believe that since the problem is in the printing process, the problem would best be solved in the slicer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What could possibly be the issue? Is there an option is Cura to compensate for this? Short of the work-around mentioned above, what are other steps I should look into?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20212" LastActivityDate="2020-02-25T15:27:24.787" Title="Print of fine hole seems to twist" Tags="|print-quality|ultimaker-cura|dimensional-accuracy|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12073" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12072" CreationDate="2020-02-25T14:54:49.323" Score="1" Body="&lt;h2&gt;This looks like a shift rather than a twist.&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looking closely at the &quot;+&quot; opening, it doesn't look as much twisted as it looks as if the top and bottom halves are sheared, with the top half shifted slightly right and the bottom shifted slightly left.  The horizontal part of the plus seems aligned on the left and right halves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you press-fit the keycaps, you will &quot;average&quot; the displacement forces and the keycap will twist.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am suspicious of a backlash problem in the X axis (left to right).  Perhaps the belt isn't tight enough, or some part shifts differently.  It could be in the rails, the belt, a loose drive pulley, the hot end being slightly loose on the carriage, or any uncontrolled movement.  It could be a high-friction x-axis which causes spring wind-up in the drive system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I recommend carefully examining the printer for any excess friction or movement, and taking action to fix that first before tweaking the model to compensate for what can not be fixed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;If it is a twist, use more cooling.&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the photos have misled me, and the vertical &quot;+&quot; shaft if actually twisting, you may need to use higher cooling.  The drag of the filament as the head traces the perimeter can create a torque on the shaft, and if the plastic is not sufficiently cooled it could be dragged around.  I consider this more of a theoretical problem than a real one, and have not yet seen it in practice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;This is a beautiful design&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a wonderful application of 3D printing.  With a multi-material printer it would be tempting to label the keys similar to old-style multi-shot keycaps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2082" LastActivityDate="2020-02-25T14:54:49.323" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12074" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12072" CreationDate="2020-02-25T15:27:24.787" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Another possibility is that those connectors you put in are pulling the cross-pattern off-center.   Is there enough height that you could specify supports in that area instead?  If so I'd recommend a brim &quot;everywhere&quot; to help stabilize the supports under the centerpost.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If there is sufficient clearance in the mechanism itself, consider expanding the diameter of the post (not the cross itself) to increase stability as the print is in progress. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2191" LastActivityDate="2020-02-25T15:27:24.787" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12075" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10346" CreationDate="2020-02-25T15:58:50.120" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The missing/inaccurate microsteps seem to be a bug/feature of Marlin:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;// Moves (or segments) with fewer steps than this will be joined with the next move  &#xA;#define MIN_STEPS_PER_SEGMENT 6&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure what the logic for this was in the stock firmware, which I originally performed the tests with, but with Marlin 2.0 I was completely missing the first 5 steps on the right (positive X) side. Changing the value to 1 mostly fixed the problem, but there was also a corresponding bug/feature in Cura:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;            &quot;meshfix_maximum_deviation&quot;:&#xA;            {&#xA;                &quot;label&quot;: &quot;Maximum Deviation&quot;,&#xA;                &quot;description&quot;: &quot;The maximum deviation allowed when reducing the resolution for the Maximum Resolution setting. If you increase this, the print will be less accurate, but the g-code will be smaller. Maximum Deviation is a limit for Maximum Resolution, so if the two conflict the Maximum Deviation will always be held true.&quot;,&#xA;                &quot;type&quot;: &quot;float&quot;,&#xA;                &quot;unit&quot;: &quot;mm&quot;,&#xA;                &quot;default_value&quot;: 0.05,&#xA;                &quot;minimum_value&quot;: &quot;0.001&quot;,&#xA;                &quot;minimum_value_warning&quot;: &quot;0.01&quot;,&#xA;                &quot;maximum_value_warning&quot;: &quot;0.3&quot;,&#xA;                &quot;settable_per_mesh&quot;: true&#xA;            }&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The deviation should be set less than a single microstep, so 0.0125 mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With both of these fixed, I've got a perfect print:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EWggG.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;successful print with each microstep visible&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sliced printing direction was counter-clockwise for all layers. The steps on the left side are where the slicer decided to put the layer seams (perhaps I should retry forcing it to put the seam somewhere else, or even using vase mode) so they have a little extra bulging from slight ooze during the Z move that you can clearly see from the lighting, but the steps on the right side are dimensionally near perfect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think I can safely say any past problems were the fault of firmware and slicing software, not anything physical/electrical/electronic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastEditorUserId="11157" LastEditDate="2020-02-26T15:39:11.960" LastActivityDate="2020-02-26T15:39:11.960" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12076" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12067" CreationDate="2020-02-25T16:41:11.450" Score="1" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Choice of Material&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PLA is an obvious choice, but it has drawbacks compared with ABS.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;PLA is more brittle than ABS.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;PLA softens at a lower temperature than ABS. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;PLA is not treatable with acetone for vapor smoothing.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;PLA can not be glued&#xA;    with (most) solvent-based adhesives.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would consider ABS or ASA to be good choices for an RC-car body.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Getting Smooth Surfaces&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To get a really smooth surface, after printing with thin layers and good print settings to minimize strings and blobs, you will want to treat the surface.  The two most common techniques are sanding and vapor smoothing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Wet Sanding is Great.  Dry Sanding is Not.&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sanding is a great smoothing technique for PLA and even for ABS, but one must be careful.  In addition to some of the sand paper grains being aligned as proper cutters to remove material, many grains are uselessly aligned and simply contribute to friction.  The plastics used in FFF printing are, by definition, thermoplastics and will melt.  One can easily soften and even melt plastic with dry sanding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the plastic softens, it can form little balls which dig into the surface, or stick to the surface.  These hurt the surface finish like snowmen mar a field of freshly fallen snow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any sanding should be done wet, with wet-rated paper.  Work up through the grits.  Lower grit abrasive removes more material so that the surface can be &quot;even&quot;.  Lower grit lets you sand out the layer lines quickly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Use a Sequence of Grits&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Higher grit papers remove the scratch marks of the previous grit.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Generally, I go up by about 50% of grit number at each change.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I am removing a lot of plastic and want to end with a glossy surface, I go through this sequence:  36-&gt;80-&gt;120-&gt;180-&gt;220-&gt;330-&gt;400-&gt;500-&gt;1000-&gt;1500-&gt;2500-&gt;3600-&gt;5000.  Yes, I know that there are some big jumps there, but I haven't happened to stock papers at intermediate points, and it works for me.  Depending on how smooth the surface already is, or how much material I must remove, I start further up the progressing.  For 3D printed objects, I start at 220.  The last three are critical.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Consider Adding Vapor Finishing to you Toolbox&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Vapor finishing of ABS can give some very fine and glossy results.  It is worth trying, although be aware that acetone mist is very flammable.  If you are heating the acetone, treat it as life-threatening and possibly explosive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you use vapor finishing, consider that the acetone goes into the ABS.  A warm soak or vacuum degassing could help remove it.  You don't want the hood of your RC car to start bubbling in the sun as the acetone is motivated to escape.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2082" LastEditorUserId="2082" LastEditDate="2020-02-25T16:52:42.823" LastActivityDate="2020-02-25T16:52:42.823" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12077" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12067" CreationDate="2020-02-25T17:49:51.787" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You may consider PETG too. It's not as strong as ASA or ABS but it's much easier to print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can polish it by first sanding and then flame-smoothing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ycGDR752fT0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this video&lt;/a&gt; from CNC kitchen about comparing the different materials (ABS is not considered because similar to ASA in properties but more difficult to print) and see &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3jTLmQVsk_s&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this video&lt;/a&gt; about flame-smoothing PETG.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2338" LastActivityDate="2020-02-25T17:49:51.787" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12078" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12071" CreationDate="2020-02-25T20:05:14.757" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You have coasting turned on. Cura shows the coasting locations (where extrusion is switched off) as gaps. The actual print may be fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3953" LastActivityDate="2020-02-25T20:05:14.757" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12080" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12056" CreationDate="2020-02-26T14:30:22.443" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The first thing that comes to mind is that, even though you have levelled the bed, the print nozzle may be too close causing too much &quot;squish&quot; on the first layer. Squish isn't bad as it promotes adhesion, but in your case, as you are looking for finer tolerances on the holes, it may be a problem. I use a feeler gauge and aim for 0.15&amp;nbsp;mm gap when printing at 0.2&amp;nbsp;mm layer height.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next thing to consider is ensuring you have calibrated your flow rate/extrusion multiplier. &lt;a href=&quot;https://e3d-online.dozuki.com/Guide/Flow+rate+(Extrusion+multiplier)+calibration+guide./89&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;See here for detailed procedure&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming flow rate is calibrated I can think of some settings in Cura that could affect your print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Initial Layer Flow&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Flow Rate Compensation Factor&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Combing Mode / Avoid Printed Parts&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Initial Layer Flow&lt;/em&gt; enable the use of a higher/lower flow rate in you first layer. Typically I set this to a value larger that my flow rate, 120&amp;nbsp;%, as I want good adhesion and am less worried about the elephant's foot effect. However, you could reduce it to less than your flow rate although that may compromise adhesion unless you use a brim.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Flow Rate Compensation Factor&lt;/em&gt; For most circumstances this should be 100&amp;nbsp;% which indicates that your flow rate should be used as set and not compensated for. I would check that this value has not been altered cause over-extrusion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lastly, there are two travel settings. &lt;em&gt;Combing Mode&lt;/em&gt; and &lt;em&gt;Avoid Printed Parts&lt;/em&gt; work in combination to reducing the impact of travels in the finished print. I would ensure you have combing turned on (e.g. Not in Skin) and that you have enabled Avoid Printed Parts. More details on these settings can be found &lt;a href=&quot;https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/52838-travel&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20218" LastEditorUserId="20218" LastEditDate="2020-02-26T14:35:16.837" LastActivityDate="2020-02-26T14:35:16.837" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12081" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-02-26T16:33:46.557" Score="3" ViewCount="675" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've only been 3D printing for a few weeks and most of my prints seem to come out fine, but when I try to print models which require a small clearance between sections of the model, e.g. various tolerance/clearance tests and some others, I can't get them to separate when they should because the bottom layer is a solid plate with no gaps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For most models, this seems a good feature as they stick well and the final surface is completely flat, but for some, I want parts to be separable, so there should be some clearance on the first layer..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From some research, I suspect it may be either that the nozzle is too close to the bed or that the bed (or nozzle?) temperature is too high.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have an Ender-3 and use PLA with a 200&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C nozzle temp and 60&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C bed temp. When leveling, I've been using a post-it note to set the nozzle clearance. I've tried dropping the bed temp to 45&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C and even 30&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C, but this didn't change the first layer printing of the Maker's Muse tolerance test, which still came out with a completely solid first layer and hence was basically a brick! I also tried using a raft, but the result was that the raft couldn't be removed from the model so this changed nothing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What should I try to improve this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some details:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm using CURA 4.4.1 with as far as I can tell mostly default settings. I've tried the profiles Standard Quailty 0.2&amp;nbsp;mm and Super Quality 0.12&amp;nbsp;mm but this doesn't change things. FYI, as you might guess, I haven't changed the default nozzle so it's 0.4&amp;nbsp;mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main reason for the question is that I don't know where to start with adjusting the settings, so had hoped someone would ask for the value of specific settings rather, than a full lisy, since most of the seem to do with the structural integrity of the body and shell of the model rather than the base, but here goes... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Shell:&#xA;    Wall Thickness: 1.2 mm&#xA;    Wall Line Count: 3&#xA;    Top/Bottom Thickness: 0.8 mm&#xA;        Top Thickness: 0.8 mm&#xA;        Top Layers: 4&#xA;        Bottom Thickness: 0.8 mm&#xA;        Bottom Layers: 4&#xA;    Horizontal Expansion: 0 mm&#xA;&#xA;Infill:&#xA;    Infill Density: 20 %&#xA;    Infill Pattern: Cubic&#xA;&#xA;Material:&#xA;    Printing Temperature: 200 °C&#xA;    Build Plate Temperature: 60 °C&#xA;    Flow: 100 %&#xA;        Wall Flow: 100 %&#xA;        Outer Wall Flow: 100 %&#xA;        Inner Wall Flow: 100 %&#xA;        Top/Bottom Flow: 100 %&#xA;        Infill Flow: 100 %&#xA;        Skirt/Brim Flow: 100 %&#xA;        Prime Tower Flow: 100 %&#xA;        Initial Layer Flow: 100%&#xA;    Enable Retraction: [Yes]&#xA;&#xA;Speed:&#xA;    Print Speed: 50 mm/s&#xA;    Travel Speed: 150 mm/s&#xA;    Initial Layer Speed: 20 mm/s&#xA;    Initial Layer Print Speed: 20 mm/s&#xA;    Initial Layer Travel Speed: 100 mm/s&#xA;&#xA;Travel:&#xA;    Avoid Printed Parts When Traveling: [Yes]&#xA;    Avoid Supports When Traveling: [On]&#xA;    Travel Avoid Distance: 0.625 mm&#xA;    Z Hop When Retracted: [No]&#xA;&#xA;Cooling:&#xA;    Enable Print Cooling: [Yes]&#xA;    Fan Speed: 100%&#xA;&#xA;Support:&#xA;    Generate Support: [No]&#xA;&#xA;Build Plate Adhesion:&#xA;    Build Plate Adhesion Type: Skirt&#xA;&#xA;Dual Extrusion:&#xA;(No settings - single nozzle)&#xA;&#xA;Experimental:&#xA;    Tree Support: [No]&#xA;&#xA;Printer Settings:&#xA;    X(Width): 235 mm&#xA;    Y(Depth): 235 mm&#xA;    Z(Height): 250 mm&#xA;    Build Plate shape: Rectangular&#xA;    Origin at Center: [No]&#xA;    Heated Bed: [Yes]&#xA;    Heated Build Volume: [No]&#xA;    G-Code flavor: Marlin&#xA;&#xA;Printhead Settings:&#xA;    X min: -25 mm&#xA;    Y min: -32 mm&#xA;    X max: 32 mm&#xA;    Y max: 34 mm&#xA;    Gantry Height: 25 mm&#xA;    Number of Extruders: 1&#xA;&#xA;Start G-code:&#xA;&#xA;    M201 X500.00 Y500.00 Z100.00 E5000.00 ;Setup machine max acceleration&#xA;    M203 X500.00 Y500.00 Z10.00 E50.00 ;Setup machine max feedrate&#xA;    M204 P500.00 R1000.00 T500.00 ;Setup Print/Retract/Travel acceleration&#xA;    M205 X8.00 Y8.00 Z0.40 E5.00 ;Setup Jerk&#xA;    M220 S100 ;Reset Feedrate&#xA;    M221 S100 ;Reset Flowrate&#xA;&#xA;End G-code:&#xA;&#xA;    G1 E-2 F2700 ;Retract a bit&#xA;    G1 E-2 Z0.2 F2400 ;Retract and raise Z&#xA;    G1 X5 Y5 F3000 ;Wipe out&#xA;    G1 Z10 ;Raise Z more&#xA;    G90 ;Absolute positionning&#xA;&#xA;Material is Generic PLA:&#xA;    Default Printing Temperature: 200 °C&#xA;    Default Build Plate Temperature: 60 °C&#xA;    Retraction Distance: 6.5 mm&#xA;    Retraction Speed: 25 mm/s&#xA;    Standby Temperature: 175 °C&#xA;    Fan Speed: 100 %&#xA;&#xA;Standard Quality Settings:&#xA;    Quality:&#xA;        Layer Height: 0.2 mm&#xA;        Initial Layer Height: 0.2 mm&#xA;    Shell:&#xA;        Wall Thickness: Calculated&#xA;        Top/Bottom Thickness: Calculated&#xA;    Support:&#xA;        Support interface Thickness: Calculated&#xA;&#xA;Super Quality Settings:&#xA;    Quality:&#xA;        Layer Height: 0.12 mm&#xA;        Initial Layer Height: 0.2 mm&#xA;    Shell:&#xA;        Wall Thickness: Calculated&#xA;        Top/Bottom Thickness: Calculated&#xA;    Support:&#xA;        Support interface Thickness: Calculated&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you may already know, there are lots of other settings which, by default, are not visible. If you need the value of one of these, I'll turn it on and see what it is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've also got a few of the failed pieces out of my junk box and added a couple of photos/ As you can see, the underside is beautifully flat and solid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jfJH3.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jfJH3.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Makers&amp;#39; Muse tests underside&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0dBla.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0dBla.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;top&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also tried this test, but the only reason I got one of the pegs out was it broke off the base layer!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RCU4t.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RCU4t.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;FDM test V4&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VIYon.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VIYon.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;underside&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Update2:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Results of trying to increase spacing when levelling.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/z0tIj.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/z0tIj.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Spaghetti&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Update3:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not an answer to the original issue, but I found a workaround in that there is an option in CURA to turn off the &quot;drop model to build plate&quot; option, so the whole model can be made on supports. This then doesn't have a 'solid' first layer and I get a test piece which shows I can print down to a separation of 0.2mm and have the parts remain free; 0.15 doesn't free up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ybwTm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ybwTm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Old, new and support&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Original attempt, new version and the support.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20131" LastEditorUserId="20131" LastEditDate="2020-03-10T11:17:33.050" LastActivityDate="2020-03-10T11:17:33.050" Title="My first layer becomes solid when sections are supposed to have small separations" Tags="|pla|creality-ender-3|heated-bed|fdm|layer-height|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12082" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5988" CreationDate="2020-02-26T17:12:23.647" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most likely your issue is related to the PDN_UART pin on TCM2208 Driver board, on some manufacturers boards the jumper is not set to UART mode by default, so most likely u need to solder jumper to right configuration. Look at datasheet of your driver board.&#xA; for example &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/bigtreetech/BIGTREETECH-TMC2208-V3.0/blob/master/TMC2208-V3.0%20manual.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://github.com/bigtreetech/BIGTREETECH-TMC2208-V3.0/blob/master/TMC2208-V3.0%20manual.pdf&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20220" LastActivityDate="2020-02-26T17:12:23.647" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12083" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10035" CreationDate="2020-02-26T23:18:40.560" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;While 0scar was right that cooling fan hurts layer adhesion, I've continued to have problems with PETG even with no fan, regardless of temperature. I went looking for advice on the topic, and found &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qif070PErNU&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;a video by CNC Kitchen&lt;/a&gt; emphasizing the importance of tuning extrusion rate because of the compressibility of the material in the extruder gear. I'd already found this was a huge issue with TPU and other flexible filaments, so it seemed compelling, and sure enough I just measured that a nominal extrusion of 180 mm only moved the filament by 173.5 mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;OK. Having extrusion rate off by about 3.5% is plenty to make prints brittle with PLA - I've experimented with this before just to see what would happen. A longer more precise extruder calibration showed more like 4% error. After correcting this, things were better, but I was still getting severe brittleness in some parts of the print but not others.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a long time, I was able to mitigate most of the remaining problem with reduced speed. I had already reduced travel speeds down from 120 mm/s to 60 mm/s (my normal print speed) because PETG is sticky fast travel over it with the nozzle in contact will tear up the already-printed surface and inhibit adhesion of the next layer. (This &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/13808/11157&quot;&gt;seems to be&lt;/a&gt; soft PETG acting as a non-Newtonian fluid. Disabling combing, which I'd done for other reasons already with all materials, probably helped with this too.) After also reducing print speed to 40 mm/s, things seemed mostly ok. But I found recently I was still getting serious localized underextrusion in the form of entire lines nearly missing, especially after complex retractions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I traced this problem down to some extreme extruder speed and jerk, which I'd allowed to mitigate the cost of lots of retractions and linear advance extruder moves. PLA and especially flex materials (where this matters most) can handle ridiculously high extruder speed (150 mm/s) and jerk (25 mm/s &amp;quot;instantaneous&amp;quot; velocity change), but PETG quickly starts slipping in the extruder gear when you do that, and making it easy to &amp;quot;lose&amp;quot; several mm of filament when unretracting. With this fixed (reverted to default 25 mm/s speed and 5 mm/s jerk; 10 mm/s seems to work ok too and performs a lot better), I finally have really strong PETG parts, comparable to PLA.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the process I also tuned linear advance K factor for PETG, which could impact adhesion. I started with 2.0 which was too high, and dropped to 1.2 which was slightly too low; around 1.4 seems to be ideal. Having this too low could reduce layer adhesion right after acceleration due to localized underextrusion; having it too high could reintroduce extruder gear slippage by putting the filament under more pressure than the gear can reliably hold it to. (If a higher value is needed to get consistent extrusion, this would mean a limit on the speed would also be needed, and going at higher speeds would require an extruder upgrade. For reference, at 0.4 mm line width and 0.2 mm layer height, a K value of 1.2 requires the extruder to be able to compress the filament by about 2.4 mm to print at 60 mm/s.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;TL;DR: &lt;strong&gt;Fan completely off&lt;/strong&gt;, &lt;strong&gt;tune extrusion rate&lt;/strong&gt; to account for compression of PETG in the extruder gear, &lt;strong&gt;avoid travel over already-printed material&lt;/strong&gt; especially at high speeds (&lt;strong&gt;limit travel speed to print speed&lt;/strong&gt;), and keep extruder speed/acceleration/jerk profile conservative.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update:&lt;/strong&gt; Almost all of the issues described in this answer seem to stem from the Ender 3's abysmally bad extruder. Some are probably slipping due to really poor grip from the gear; others might be common to all bowden extruders. With the extruder I'm now using (Flex3drive G5) on the otherwise-same printer, I can print PETG at same speed or faster than PLA, with no under- or inconsistent extrusion issues. Cooling does seem to affect layer adhesion, but mostly on very thin (single-wall) parts; otherwise even with fan on at 100% I get better adhesion than I could reliably get with the original extruder. So I think the biggest issue was underextrusion, not over-cooling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastEditorUserId="11157" LastEditDate="2021-04-23T00:04:11.927" LastActivityDate="2021-04-23T00:04:11.927" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12084" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12081" CreationDate="2020-02-27T02:09:50.187" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The overall flow rate seems ok -- I see a nice gap in the 0.2 mm peg case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The most likely problem is the first layer is too thin, or to much material is being over extruded. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know Cura as a slicer. It may have an option to over-extrude the first layer. Unless I found such a parameter, I would look at how z=0 is set.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just add an experiment, try using 3 Post-It notes. How, if at all, does the result change? Do you still have adequate bed adhesion?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can make the first layer thicker, it might be relatively closer to the actual thickness. Can you program a 0.35 mm first layer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can't make the first layer thicker, maybe try setting all the layers to be thick. It might not handle the overhang as well, but today's question is about the first layer expansion &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2082" LastEditorUserId="11242" LastEditDate="2020-02-27T02:31:13.697" LastActivityDate="2020-02-27T02:31:13.697" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12087" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12088" CreationDate="2020-02-27T08:57:23.307" Score="3" ViewCount="2981" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am thinking to use closed-loop stepper motors to prevent step loss and make the machine more accurate. What options (preferably low cost) are there for:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;code&gt;stepper motor + driver + encoder + microcontoller&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is building it from scratch worth it? E.g. Arduino Mega 2560 + RAMPS 1.4/1.5/1.6 + stepper motors (e.g. NEMA17) + drivers (e.g. A4988, DRV8825) + encoders (e.g. AS5047P, AS5047D, AS5048A, TLE5012B) + microcontrollers (e.g. STM32).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20227" LastActivityDate="2022-03-07T06:29:59.297" Title="Closed-loop stepper motors" Tags="|stepper|stepper-driver|motor|arduino|ramps|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12088" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12087" CreationDate="2020-02-27T10:36:58.847" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;A number of options exist, but keep in mind that cost will be a limiting factor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;(Small sidenote: cost depends on persective, financial cost does not equal mental cost. The tradeoff between buy or make depends also on your willingness to persist when things don't work right away.)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Before you start:&lt;/strong&gt; make sure that your printer has enough space to accomodate bigger motors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;So, what options are there?&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Change your current configuration. If you are losing steps, it could very well be that it can be fixed in firmware.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pro: No budget and nothing to lose.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Con: No shiny closed loop system. (Is that bad though?) Possibly need to configure and compile your own firmware.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;MacGyver / DIY solution based on low lever components&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pro: Probably as cheap as you'll get depending on how you choose your components. Might be an interesting learning experience, not to mention the satisfaction afterwards. This could be the smallest build size you'll see in all the options.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Con: You'll need a decent amount of engineering and debugging. Might be tricky to mount the encoders. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Same as 1, but now consider using of the shelf stepper motors &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.omc-stepperonline.com/stepper-motor-w-encoder?mfp=161-motor-nema-size[Nema%2017]&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;with integrated encoders&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pro: Most robust option on a budget in my opinion due to the single mechanical piece (motor + encoder).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Con: Integrated encoders have a considerable cost and are large compared to their vanila versions.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Go for &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.omc-stepperonline.com/closed-loop-stepper-kit&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;off the shelf motor+encoder and drivers&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pro: No need to worry about driver configurations too much. Just plug in the numbers or set the dip switches. Very conveinient solution. Pretty much plug and play.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Con: This will already be challenging on a budget. Making a wrong mix and match might lead to unpredictable results such as drives going in overcurrent. (Which, believe me, is very frustrating for your application!)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If we are allowed to consider servo motors: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.teknic.com/products/clearpath-brushless-dc-servo-motors/clearpath-sd-stepper-replacement/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;ClearPath-SD series&lt;/a&gt; (Or any alternative for that matter!) &lt;em&gt;I'm just including this for completeness.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pro: Performance wise a clear winner on pretty much any relevant level.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Con: You'll need a big budget!&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Bottomline&lt;/strong&gt;: You'll probably want to give the first option a go before spending money. Next stop, you might want to take the second option (you already did research on different specific low level components), and if you have time to spare I'd go with that as well. If you are also on a budget timewise, I'd definively suggest to take the third option with existing driver boards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other options are more cost heavy and become real options in produciton environments, where downtime is also costsing money.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As to the microcontroller, take whatever you have available. Just know that more computational power will allow you to output steps faster and will allow for smoother movements. Lot's to talk about there as well!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19305" LastActivityDate="2020-02-27T10:36:58.847" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12089" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-02-27T15:15:27.077" Score="0" ViewCount="86" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to put a spiral lid on top of a container. When the lid opens, then the spiral mechanism will rotate into the container. Is there a name for this mechanism? If not, would something like this be possible?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20230" LastActivityDate="2020-02-27T15:57:15.137" Title="Is there a spiral lid mechanism" Tags="|3d-models|3d-design|mechanics|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12090" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12089" CreationDate="2020-02-27T15:23:02.963" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;No spiral lids that I know of. I'm not sure how they would work, anyway. There are plenty of designs with hemispherical lids -- so-called &quot;Venus&quot; boxes. Check Yeggi:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.yeggi.com/q/venus+box/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Yeggi : Venus box&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3953" LastActivityDate="2020-02-27T15:23:02.963" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12091" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12089" CreationDate="2020-02-27T15:57:15.137" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds like you're talking about an &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Diaphragm_(optics)&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;iris diaphragm&lt;/a&gt;. This has many parts that slide against each other, and would best be printed as separate parts, then assembled.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4922" LastActivityDate="2020-02-27T15:57:15.137" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12092" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11850" CreationDate="2020-02-27T16:54:18.597" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found the problem. This model of printer Monoprice Select v2 has bed warping issues so when the bed heated up it would warp severely. I bought a glass bed and all my problems were solved. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19912" LastActivityDate="2020-02-27T16:54:18.597" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12094" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-02-28T01:49:50.093" Score="2" ViewCount="2591" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently bought an &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.elegoo.com/product/elegoo-mars-uv-photocuring-lcd-3d-printer/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Elegoo Mars 3D printer&lt;/a&gt;.  Generally speaking, I'm quite happy with it. But, I don't care for the slicing software, Chitubox.  Does the Elegoo Mars support other 3D file formats?  I have tried *.stl files, but they don't seem to work with the factory firmware.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20238" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2020-02-28T17:38:55.133" LastActivityDate="2020-12-17T22:27:18.200" Title="Does the Elegoo Mars printer support additional file formats?" Tags="|file-formats|elegoo-mars|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12095" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-02-28T12:30:19.013" Score="2" ViewCount="978" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hello guys I have a little problem with printing. Whenever I print something there are always these lines my printer does, it's not a very big deal, but it looks rather ugly and I'd really appreciate it if anyone could help me if you know what the problem is. I post also a picture to show you the problem clearer. From what I see (observing how my printer prints), I noticed that it starts printing at one point and then when it arrives again after a circle to the starting point to print the layer above, it stops just a millisecond (instead of keep moving smoothly) and I think that's how the problem is created. I'm pretty sure its not the printer's problem, but probably the G-code or the filament... I don't know for sure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here some details:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Printer: Creality Ender 3 Pro&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Slicer: Cura&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Filament: PM filament, PLA, 1&amp;nbsp;kg, 1.75&amp;nbsp;mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Sf1y2.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;seam in print object&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Sf1y2.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;seam in print object&quot; title=&quot;seam in print object&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20243" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-02-28T14:14:15.687" LastActivityDate="2020-02-28T14:27:04.077" Title="How can I solve the problem of line distortions on my prints?" Tags="|print-quality|pla|creality-ender-3|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12096" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12095" CreationDate="2020-02-28T14:27:04.077" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As towe noted in a comment, that's Z seam. The mechanism by which it happens is mostly the same as bulging corners. The print head is moving considerably slower just before and just after the layer change, decelerating to a stop then accelerating back up to speed in order to perform the slow Z-axis move, but the rate of extrusion, which is dependent on pressure built up (in the compression of the filament, and possibly expansion of the bowden tube) between the extruder gear and the nozzle, not directly on the motion of the extruder gear, remains the same.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my opinion, the best fix for this is upgrading to firmware that compensates for it. In Marlin firmware (the stock Ender 3 firmware is based on Marlin 1.0), this feature is called Linear Advance. You tune a spring constant for your material's compression, and after setting it, extrusion is roughly proportional (linear) with respect to logical E-axis moves, regardless of the speed the print head is moving. However, upgrading firmware is nontrivial to do, and has a lot you might have to tune/tweak to get it working the way you want.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Short of that, there are a lot of ways of mitigating the problem:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Select &quot;Outer Before Inner Walls&quot; option (in Cura, or equivalent in other slicers) and &quot;Infill Before Walls&quot; when slicing. This will ensure the layer change happens inside the model (on an inner wall) not on the outside surface, because outer surface is neither the first nor last thing printed on the layer.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Increase X/Y acceleration and/or jerk limits so that motion can start/stop a lot quicker, so there's a shorter period for the disproportionate extrusion to happen in. But if you do this too much, you'll get layer shifts (failed prints) or at least bad vibrations that show up in print surface. My Ender 3 can handle accelerations up to at least 3000 mm/s² in X and Y and 10 mm/s &quot;jerk&quot; (a misnomer, thus the weird unit) and you can likely go higher if you experiment.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Tell slicer to retract at layer change. This will prevent extrusion from continuing during the Z move, but won't help with the extrusion during the time you're decelerating/accelerating in the XY plane.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Increase Z acceleration/jerk. This will reduce the time spent during the Z move, and might even allow the head to keep moving without coming to a full stop during layer change (but that can't happen if you turned on retract at layer change).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Print at lower speed. If the max speed is lower, it takes less time to decelerate/accelerate from/to it, and nozzle pressure will be lower (so extrusion is naturally closer to linear).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Enable coasting in your slicer. &lt;em&gt;This is a hack&lt;/em&gt; that really poorly approximates what Linear Advance would do, but it can lead to underextruded walls and brittle prints. I always had bad luck with it and don't recommend it, but it's an option.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would recommend starting with items 1 and 2. #1 is good for a lot of other things too, and the only tradeoff is that overhangs &lt;em&gt;might&lt;/em&gt; print worse (in my experience that's not really the case and they sometimes print better even). And #2 will get you faster prints (sometimes &lt;em&gt;at lot&lt;/em&gt; faster) which is nice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2020-02-28T14:27:04.077" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12097" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12103" CreationDate="2020-02-28T16:12:25.070" Score="3" ViewCount="6105" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I set my prints on the window sill (indoors) will the sunlight still be able to cure the resin? The problem with setting them outside is the wind knocking them over.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5579" LastActivityDate="2022-05-25T18:59:30.457" Title="Can you cure resin with sunlight through a window?" Tags="|sla|resin|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12098" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-02-28T19:32:16.187" Score="2" ViewCount="4231" Body="&lt;p&gt;I made a custom printer with RAMPS. I used Y-MIN endstop at beginning. After few prints I discovered that Y-axis was inverted (mirrored).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I fixed Marlin firmware and now I have:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#define Y_MAX_ENDSTOP_INVERTING true&#xA;#define INVERT_Y_DIR false&#xA;#define Y_HOME_DIR 1&#xA;#define USE_YMAX_PLUG&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also connected the Y-endstop to Y-max pin on RAMPS.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now the printer homing in the same direction than before (in front) and the y-endstop works as expected.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I try to start printing or if I try to press the &quot;center&quot; button in Pronterface, the Y-axis moves in the wrong direction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can someone help me?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20151" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2020-02-29T16:56:40.877" LastActivityDate="2020-05-26T06:55:06.040" Title="Printer inverted Y-axis" Tags="|marlin|diy-3d-printer|pronterface|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12099" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14152" CreationDate="2020-02-28T23:02:34.030" Score="4" ViewCount="1712" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been noticing in some of my linear advance test towers that the (very minor/fine) ripple pattern in walls varies with the K factor, which made me think that it isn't coming from any vibration in the print head motion, but rather from quantization of the extruder into discrete steps (i.e. wall gets slightly thicker right after a step, thins out afterwards until the next step, repeats).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By my math, with 1.75 mm filament and 93 steps per mm on my printer (Ender 3), each step is 0.02585 mm³ of material. At 0.4 mm line width and 0.2 mm layer height, there's 0.08 mm³ of material per linear mm, so that should give roughly 3 extruder steps per linear mm. That seems comparable to the ripple rate I see, although not exact; I suppose it varies somewhat because of linear advance and perhaps other reasons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway, to get to the question, am I missing something or is this the limiting factor in print resolution on my printer? It seems like isolated small details (smaller than 1/3 mm) won't be extrudable at all except as ooze, or over-extruded if they happen to cross a step threshold, and like things would be far worse if I tried to use a smaller nozzle and thinner layers. It seems that, ideally, you'd want the E-axis steps per mm to be sufficiently high that quantization is a non-issue (i.e. +-1 step is small relative error) for extrusions corresponding to a single X- or Y-axis microstep.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastEditorUserId="11157" LastEditDate="2020-02-29T20:16:43.530" LastActivityDate="2020-07-29T17:01:38.030" Title="Is E-axis steps/mm resolution limiting factor in print quality?" Tags="|print-quality|extruder|creality-ender-3|resolution|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12100" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12113" CreationDate="2020-02-29T09:49:35.657" Score="0" ViewCount="118" Body="&lt;p&gt;I began build LCD printer and I want make some modifications.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What if I will place LCD below VAT&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Tznt5.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Tznt5.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;? Will the display break when printing? what are the risks?&#xA;I seen a lot of printers and all of them use PP material for VAT bottom and attach with a lot of screws. I want make more simple VAT-LCD constructions and I think this construction transmis UV light better&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20248" LastActivityDate="2020-03-02T07:23:12.690" Title="Attach LCD to VAT" Tags="|diy-3d-printer|sla|lcd-screen|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12101" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12100" CreationDate="2020-02-29T14:13:43.263" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;SLA printers have basically 2 expendable parts: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The UV light source is only good for so long before it degrades and breaks.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The LCD will become blind over time.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The vat's lower surface - the build area - will get eaten by the resin over time.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because of this, all commercial SLA printers come with a special film at the vat's bottom surface, a sacrificial surface and, as part of the boundary of the vat, also acts to protects the LCD from the resin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastActivityDate="2020-02-29T14:13:43.263" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12102" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12099" CreationDate="2020-02-29T15:47:30.767" Score="1" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Short answer&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Usually&lt;/em&gt; no.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Long answer&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are several big factors that limit how small things you can print. The bigger ones are pretty much:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Positional accuracy and settings (limited by steps/mm in X, Y, Z)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Nozzle diameter&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, why don't you need to care about steps/mm on the extruder that muchin the grand scale compared to the positional accuracy? Well, we have 1.8° per step, from which, with the diameter of the gear, 11mm, we get 0,1778 mm of filament extrusion or 0.428 mm³ of extruded plastic per full 1.8° step - which clearly is unsuitable to printing at all. But with the 16 micro-steps the shorter movements are possible and a single micro-step extrusion is in the area you calculated - I got to 0,0267 mm³, possibly the result of different rounding between us. With an assumed effective gear diameter of 11mm (usually the effective gear diameter is a little smaller, thus the 93 steps) we come to about 89.9 steps per mm of filament, which corresponds to about 2.4 mm³ of extruded plastic, or about 30 mm of line (with your given parameters), bringing us to about 3 microsteps per millimeter of line on the tray. So far, your math checks out. But that usually shouldn't be too much a limiting factor. We know from your given settings, that the &lt;em&gt;Configuration.h&lt;/em&gt; will look like this, putting the microsteps into the steps/mm:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;/**&#xA;* Default Axis Steps Per Unit (steps/mm)&#xA;* Override with M92&#xA;*                                      X, Y, Z, E0 [, E1[, E2[, E3[, E4]]]]&#xA;*/&#xA;#define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT   { 80, 80, 400, 93 } &#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you don't have a micro-stepping driver, this part in &lt;em&gt;Configuration_adv.h&lt;/em&gt; is non-functional:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;// Microstep setting (Only functional when stepper driver microstep pins are connected to MCU.&#xA;#define MICROSTEP_MODES {16,16,16,16,16} // [1,2,4,8,16]&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With the proposed 0.4 mm/0.2 mm line, we are still somewhat on the good side, allowing us about 1/3rd of a millimeter as the shortest line printable as a single step extrusion. That's a consistent with printing a simple, circular dot being printable with these settings - 0.4 &amp;gt; 1/3.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But once you get to smaller nozzle diameters, the limitation gets more noticeable: at a 0.2 mm nozzle and 0.22 mm line at 0.1 mm height, that's a 0.022 mm² crosssection, so the 1-step extrusion is equivalent to a full millimeter of line! That's much more bothersome in theory.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I haven't been able to witness the inability of showing that limit of lacking extrusion yet on my TronXY-X1 with a 0.2 mm nozzle - the steps/mm in it are also about 90-100 last I set them. The TronXY uses a very similar (virtually identical) extruder setup as the Ender 3, and it achieved printed lines of about 0.3 mm length at 0.1 mm layer height somewhat reliable, but the retraction made huge issues, which might also mask the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I believe that it needs these smaller nozzles to amplify the problems to make them noticeable. It also should become more noticeable if you'd use 2.85 mm or 3 mm filament.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Ways to improve resolution&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, if printing with smaller nozzles, it might be a good idea to think about how one could improve the accuracy of the extruder system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The most-easy way would be to alter the extruder and swap the gear to one of a &lt;em&gt;smaller&lt;/em&gt; effective diameter - That way a single step accounts to &lt;em&gt;less&lt;/em&gt; extrusion, which means, in turn, a higher number of steps/mm, and thus allowing for shorter extrusions that can be still achieved.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next one might think about getting a different motor/driver setup that might have either more microsteps or generally a smaller step size.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Quadrupling the effective (micros)steps/mm would allow us to print about a 0.25 mm line on the 0.22 mm nozzle I proposed, being pretty much a spot - if it wouldn't be partially masked in other issues as I experience.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2020-07-29T17:01:38.030" LastActivityDate="2020-07-29T17:01:38.030" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12103" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12097" CreationDate="2020-02-29T16:18:15.153" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The glass will block most of the uv light; but not all. It will depend on the type of light that the resin is sensitive to; in order to determine if it will continue to cure behind a glass window in direct sunlight. Some resins also sensitive to blue light. You will need to look at the material data sheet for the resin to be able to know for sure. Be advised though, that the resin does not stop curing, and will continue to cure slowly over time, just sitting on the desk.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thoughtco.com/does-glass-block-uv-light-608316&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.thoughtco.com/does-glass-block-uv-light-608316&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;From the link:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Glass that is transparent to visible light absorbs nearly all UVB. This is the wavelength range that can cause a sunburn, so it's true you can't get a sunburn through glass. However, UVA is much closer to the visible spectrum than UVB. About 75% of UVA passes through ordinary glass. UVA leads to skin damage and genetic mutations that can lead to cancer. Glass does not protect you from skin damage from the sun. It affects indoor plants too. Have you ever taken an indoor plant outside and burned its leaves? This happens because the plant was unaccustomed to the higher levels of UVA found outside, compared with inside a sunny window.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12857" LastActivityDate="2020-02-29T16:18:15.153" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12105" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12098" CreationDate="2020-02-29T23:48:41.907" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Usually I just flip the connector around on the board. This causes the stepper to reverse without fiddling around with firmware.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14773" LastActivityDate="2020-02-29T23:48:41.907" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12108" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12109" CreationDate="2020-03-01T14:30:33.690" Score="1" ViewCount="226" Body="&lt;p&gt;My custom printer is affected by a strange problem. After 30/40 min printing without any problem, PLA starts blobbing from the top of the hotend.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RvZ3V.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RvZ3V.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What does it means? Where to start checking?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is possible that there is a little space between nozzle screw and transition screw inside the hotend?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20151" LastActivityDate="2020-03-01T15:31:34.503" Title="PLA from the top of the hotend" Tags="|hotend|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12109" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12108" CreationDate="2020-03-01T15:31:34.503" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a typical sign, that your hotend wasn't tightened properly. Carefully heat it up and remove all the plastic you can while removing the heatbreak - that's what you call transition screw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After cleaning, screw in the heatbreak and the nozzle. The nozzle should butt agains the heatbreak, but have at least 2 threads to the heating block. Reassamble the full hotend now by adding the coolend.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally heat the hotend on the full assembly to about 240 °C and tighten the nozzle against the heatbreak again. This is called hot-tightening. You can add the PTFE liner after the hot tightening.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastActivityDate="2020-03-01T15:31:34.503" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12110" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-03-01T16:54:55.027" Score="1" ViewCount="1043" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Monoprice Maker Select V2 (Wanhao Duplicator i3) on which I've installed a recent version of Marlin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The home position is at the front-left of the build plate. At the end of the print, the print head returns to this position by moving the build plate &lt;em&gt;back&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I modify this to return the print head to the back-left corner, so that the print ends with the part more easily accessible?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is the default G-code for this printer in Ultimaker Cura:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt; M104 S0 ;extruder heater off &#xA; G91 ;relative positioning&#xA; G1 E-1 F300  ;retract the filament a bit before lifting the nozzle, to release some of the pressure&#xA; G1 Z+0.5 E-5 X-20 Y-20 F{speed_travel} ;move Z up a bit and retract filament even more&#xA; G28 X0 Y0 ;move X/Y to min endstops, so the head is out of the way&#xA; M84 ;steppers off&#xA; G90 ;absolute positioning&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16270" LastActivityDate="2020-03-01T18:15:34.827" Title="Changing final build plate position" Tags="|g-code|build-plate|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2020-03-02T05:36:41.163" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12111" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12110" CreationDate="2020-03-01T16:54:55.027" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I believe I would want to do:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt; M104 S0 ;extruder heater off &#xA; G91 ;relative positioning&#xA; G1 E-1 F300  ;retract the filament a bit before lifting the nozzle, to release some of the pressure&#xA; G1 Z+0.5 E-5 X-20 Y-20 F{speed_travel} ;move Z up a bit and retract filament even more&#xA; G90 ;absolute positioning&#xA; G0 X0 Y200 ; move to back-left corner&#xA; M84 ;steppers off&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here, &lt;code&gt;Y200&lt;/code&gt; is the depth of my build plate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This works, but the movement is very slow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16270" LastEditorUserId="16270" LastEditDate="2020-03-01T18:15:34.827" LastActivityDate="2020-03-01T18:15:34.827" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12112" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11968" CreationDate="2020-03-01T20:43:54.873" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The worry must be about oozing and stringing. In general, no worries! Nothing a bit of tuning would not fix.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have experience printing with Volcano with 0.4, 0.6, 0.8, and 1.0&amp;nbsp;mm diameter. &#xA;PLA, PETG, Nylon, TPE, and TPU. (Volcano nozzles have been my default style for several years now. I don't even own a 10&amp;nbsp;mm heat block anymore (ok, maybe one)).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And yes, speaking of the classic 0.4&amp;nbsp;mm nozzle, you get higher stringing and oozing compared to 10&amp;nbsp;mm meltzone. You'll need to tune your retraction - it will be significatnly higher than 10&amp;nbsp;mm meltzone (I'm not giving numbers because it depends on printer style, material, nozzle diameter, temperature, and even slicer and slicer settings...).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do like to print quite hot though with lots of cooling (PLA 220&amp;nbsp;°C for example) to increase layer adhesion and strength - so I experience this more. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For oozing, you may need to experiment with XY travel speeds, wiping settings, coasting settings, and similar (this also will help with stringing). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, keep in mind that the bigger the nozzle diameter, the more cooling you'll need (coupled with slower print) just to solidify that massive extrusion flow/mass. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3796" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-03-01T21:56:27.500" LastActivityDate="2020-03-01T21:56:27.500" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12113" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12100" CreationDate="2020-03-02T07:17:12.340" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The way you're thinking about using the LCD directly on the bottom of resin vat and cure the resin is a good idea, but there are several problems that I will focus on the main. as mentioned by @Trish some issues might occur to the LCD and u need to replace it. Except that you need to clean the vat some times after print and with LCD attach to it, you know...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But the main reason is that when the resin is cured in the bottom layer can stick to the bottom of the vat so the printers have a solution to raise the bed and again lower it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The FEP (Fluorinated Ethylene Propylene) membrane is an &lt;em&gt;elastic&lt;/em&gt; material, so when the bed raises the FEP film get raise a little sticking to the part and detaching. so we cant have this situation with the lcd because the lcd is a solid film that bends just a little.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm also working on an LCD resin base printer so please post questions if you have any other questions. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20266" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-03-02T07:23:12.690" LastActivityDate="2020-03-02T07:23:12.690" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12114" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12115" CreationDate="2020-03-02T08:01:38.897" Score="2" ViewCount="732" Body="&lt;p&gt;A question to those who have a 3D printer. Have you ever needed a spare throat or a heater block? Do they ever break? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I just bought some spare parts: heaters, thermistors, nozzles... However, I am not sure if buying throats and heater blocks make any sense.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20267" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-03-02T10:06:44.327" LastActivityDate="2020-03-02T10:24:40.727" Title="Do spare throats or a heater blocks ever break?" Tags="|diy-3d-printer|hotend|replacement-parts|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12115" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12114" CreationDate="2020-03-02T10:01:07.643" Score="2" Body="&lt;h1&gt;Short answer&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Long answer&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Heater bocks&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A heater block is destroyed if one of the following happens&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Threads stripped&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bent or otherwise deformed&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;stripped grub screw&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All of these can happen by handling the block with too much force when securing nozzles, thermosensors or heater cartridges.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Throats&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Throats can be destroyed, especially e3D v6 throats with their neck down on the center can be simply turned and broken in two. Lined throats can be heated too much and the liner destroyed, which not always can be replaced, mandating a spare part. And you can strip the threads.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another chance to damage the throat is by using very hard material nozzles - stainless steel comes to mind. Such a nozzle would not deform itself like brass when tightened against the throat and might lead to damage to the end of the throat if exchanged several times.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Conclusion&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you run several printers or change nozzles regularly for whatever reason, it is a very good idea to have at least a complete set of spare parts on hand to fix problems that might occur during work on the printer. I have a fully assembled spare hotend waiting for its day to shine in case my current one breaks...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:29:41.667" LastActivityDate="2020-03-02T10:24:40.727" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12116" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12114" CreationDate="2020-03-02T10:22:40.397" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Parts don't have to break or bent, they may become unusable by other issues as well!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition to &lt;a href=&quot;/a/12115&quot;&gt;the answer of @Trish&lt;/a&gt;, if you clog your hotend, or the hotend/heater block/nozzle gets buried deep into solidified filament (see image below), it might be much easier just to replace the parts rather than salvaging the parts (or you can salvage the parts later, in the meantime you'll be up and running).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;E.g. recover from &lt;a href=&quot;/q/8252&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HYYcU.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HYYcU.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2020-03-02T10:22:40.397" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12118" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-03-02T13:47:59.273" Score="1" ViewCount="171" Body="&lt;p&gt;The object is supposed to be symmetrical, but it printed with a flat edge. Cura 4.5 even generated support material to make it round, but then it came out like this: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IzCvQ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IzCvQ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;3d object&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7ZHDd.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7ZHDd.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried printing it in the pegs straight down orientation, which was fine except it adds a crazy amount of support material.  So much it becomes hard to remove.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I prevent Cura from flatting the edge?  Or at least doing it much less than that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/W5el2.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/W5el2.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I seen a overhang setting at 51 is that related?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The flat edge on the bottom was against the glass.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16395" LastEditorUserId="4922" LastEditDate="2020-07-10T17:13:38.130" LastActivityDate="2020-07-10T17:13:38.130" Title="Object is supposed to be symmetrical, but the bottom edge is flattened, why?" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|troubleshooting|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12119" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-03-02T22:02:49.110" Score="0" ViewCount="424" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4195002&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;A part&lt;/a&gt; I've printed (on a Monoprice Maker Select V2, sliced with Cura) has a small peg on it, which is an unsupported overhanging section of the model.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first few layers of the peg end up a mess of PLA spaghetti. Here I've rotated the part to get a better shot, normally it would be printed on its side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lawtn.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lawtn.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've done test prints that contain L-shaped overhangs and they worked ok, so I'm not sure what's broken about this one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One guess I have is that because the peg is relatively low to the heated build plate, the material isn't cooling as quickly, and it needs to be more rigid in order for subsequent layers to print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also tried with supports but I found it too hard to remove.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16270" LastActivityDate="2020-07-18T20:24:27.893" Title="Overhanging section of part turns into spaghetti" Tags="|print-quality|support-structures|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12121" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-03-03T13:16:33.677" Score="2" ViewCount="1465" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a previously working Anet A8 that I just flashed to Marlin 1.1.9 (bugfix) and installed a real BLtouch sensor. I followed setup instructions and believe my wiring is correct. When I try to do a &lt;code&gt;G28&lt;/code&gt;, the extruder moves to the front left corner properly, then moved to center the BLtouch over the bed. Then, it moves up instead of down, the BLtouch drops the probe, the extruder moves up again, the BLtouch drops the probe again and the extruder moves up again until the carriage is near the top. Using Pronterface I can move the carriage back down, but have to use &lt;code&gt;M211 S0&lt;/code&gt; to let me get it close to the table. X, Y and Z move properly in Pronterface. I have changed the relevant settings in Marlin and recompiled with no success. The BLtouch does it's self test correctly and I can control the probe with commands. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20278" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-03-03T13:22:28.570" LastActivityDate="2020-03-07T21:03:07.830" Title="Anet A8 Marlin BLtouch moves up instead of down during homing" Tags="|marlin|anet-a8|bltouch|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12122" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-03-04T03:40:01.700" Score="2" ViewCount="1424" Body="&lt;p&gt;Printer: SecKit Go w/ BMG/v6 and SKR v1.3/TMC2130 Drivers&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Slicer: Simplify3d or Cura (problem is much worse in Cura?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Long story short - after getting this printer running, I have noticed that it will underextrude ONLY on corners on an internal perimeter specifically once we're above bottom layers - and nowhere else. See below:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/J9Y3r.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/J9Y3r.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;E-Steps have been calibrated, extrusion multiplier has been calibrated (single perimeters are 0.48&amp;nbsp;mm), linear advance has been calibrated, but here it gets weird. Anything resembling a 'standard' value (suggested between 1-2) results in MASSIVE underextrusion after the speed change. I was able to get a good looking line using the linear advance test with a value of 0.15 (which seems very low).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VvSl7.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VvSl7.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Retraction (1&amp;nbsp;mm @ 30&amp;nbsp;mm/s), junction deviation (0.02) and all other settings are off the factory Simplify3d profile. Turning linear advance off makes the problem slightly better but doesn't fix it, going to a value of around 1 results in huge underextrusion after any change in direction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am absolutely lost as to what to try next.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20282" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-03-09T22:43:43.407" LastActivityDate="2020-03-09T22:43:43.407" Title="Bizarre Underextrusion Issue" Tags="|underextrusion|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12123" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12122" CreationDate="2020-03-04T04:51:25.123" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;From what I can find, the SecKit Go has a direct drive extruder, so 0.15 is a very reasonable linear advance K value. For comparison, I have 0.6 for PLA with a bowden. Values in the range 1-2 are way too high for direct drive except &lt;em&gt;possibly&lt;/em&gt; for really soft TPU.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Geometrically localized underextrusion almost always means you have either&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;loss of material due to oozing elsewhere, or&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;filament slippage&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;usually due to whatever's being printed just before the part with the underextrusion. If it's oozing you may need to increase retraction or disable or limit combing in your slicer (to prevent unretracted moves; these can ooze a lot of material when crossing infill areas). If it's slippage it could be from trying to print too fast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2020-03-04T04:51:25.123" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12125" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12126" CreationDate="2020-03-04T07:45:29.270" Score="2" ViewCount="1288" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm using Cura 4.5.0 and an Ultimaker S5&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The walls in my model are coming out not solid. I don't have a clue why.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TNETT.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TNETT.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rAcCs.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rAcCs.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I open the STL in Sketchup it has all these weird lines. I don't know how they got there and I don't know how to get rid of them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1feCe.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1feCe.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20171" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-03-05T15:09:10.590" LastActivityDate="2020-03-05T15:09:10.590" Title="Uneven walls, not solid" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12126" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12125" CreationDate="2020-03-04T08:54:10.057" Score="2" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Triangles?!&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First of all, the triangles on the STL are not a problem - they are just how STL is defined: a mesh of triangles. you can't save anything but triangles in STL, so let's not bother with that item but the actual elephant in the room: the print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Underextrusion&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Step 1: proper settings&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It shows signs of underextrusion. And I can exactly tell you where part of it comes from: You have set the line width to &lt;em&gt;below&lt;/em&gt; the nozzle width. However, the line width should be best 10% &lt;em&gt;larger&lt;/em&gt; than the nozzle. &lt;strong&gt;All&lt;/strong&gt; of these lines should read between 0.4 to (as I have set it) 0.45 mm:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MLa2e.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MLa2e.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With a 10% wider line planned into, it is not necessary to have an extra initial layer line width of more than 100 %, but it can help in adhesion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Step 2: Other issues?!&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There might be other issues at work, though they will show up after setting the width much better. The following two strike me as most likely if the problem persists with the now considerable increased flow:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The retraction and/or retraction speed might be set too high.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;mechanical issues of the extruder system, for example, worn gears or uneven pressure against the gear due to damaged parts.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:29:41.667" LastActivityDate="2020-03-05T11:25:24.803" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12129" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13314" CreationDate="2020-03-05T08:43:49.570" Score="2" ViewCount="7108" Body="&lt;p&gt;Using the following code to autotune the PID:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;M303 E0 S200 C10&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which is setting my tuning temperature to 200&amp;nbsp;°C using 10 cycles (though this is irrelevant in this scenario).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The temperature overshoots to 250&amp;nbsp;°C then decreases until room temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The following error is returned:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;PID Autotune failed! Temperature too high&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3yoIo.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3yoIo.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;PID Autotune graph&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a test I reset all PID values to zero.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;M301 P00.00 I00.00 D00.00&#xA;&#xA;M500&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then set the printer to reach 200&amp;nbsp;°C&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;M104 S200&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This produced the following graph, where oscillations can be seen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YkBP6.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YkBP6.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;PID All values set to zero&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I could attempt to manual tune the PID from here but I'd rather use the autotune command if possible. Any ideas how to fix this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19038" LastEditorUserId="19038" LastEditDate="2020-03-22T18:54:38.330" LastActivityDate="2020-11-03T17:40:11.210" Title="PID Autotuning not working – large initial overshoot, no oscillations" Tags="|pid|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12130" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20424" CreationDate="2020-03-05T16:00:04.440" Score="4" ViewCount="498" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Phrozen Sonic Mini printer, and of course I'm eventually going to need to replace the FEP film on the resin vat. Is there anything I need to take in to consideration when buying some replacement film? Will any legitimate FEP film I find on Amazon work?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5579" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-03-05T22:51:26.303" LastActivityDate="2023-02-05T06:08:41.057" Title="Does it matter what kind of FEP film I use for my SLA printer?" Tags="|sla|maintenance|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12131" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-03-05T16:43:07.337" Score="2" ViewCount="144" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am currently writing (software) and building (printing) a little control panel for my printer. I have some 2D joysticks that I want to use for X/Y and Z/E movement. The idea is that when I move the joystick in X direction the printer starts moving to the right/left and when released it should stop. For now it should just be constant speed, so the amount of tilting the joystick should not matter. I have been looking through the GCode reference (Marlin) but I all the movement related GCodes seem to be moving to specific position, but not simply starting to move until further notice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When using positioning I can think of two possible issues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Moving too much per iteration -&gt; it will continue to move after releasing the joystick&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Moving too little per iteration -&gt; it will jerk around (stop, start, stop, start, ...) which is probably not too good for the motors&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a way to have the printer head just start and stop moving without having to give a target coordinate? If it makes any difference: I am only talking about having this for a Creality CR-20.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20301" LastActivityDate="2020-03-05T16:43:07.337" Title="Command to have printer head move constantly" Tags="|marlin|g-code|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12132" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12133" CreationDate="2020-03-05T20:50:49.593" Score="1" ViewCount="366" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am wondering if it is possible and safe to add a second extruder to my Anet A8 without changing the main board. I was thinking splitting my Z motor wires to free up the Z2 axis motor connector on the main board, using this connector for the second extruder motor. &#xA;Is this possible? If so, how would i configure Marlin to use those extruder pins&#xA;Can I overload the board by using two motor on the same connector?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20303" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-03-05T22:41:27.487" LastActivityDate="2020-03-06T07:59:39.180" Title="Anet A8 Installing second extruder without changing board" Tags="|anet-a8|stepper|multi-material|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12133" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12132" CreationDate="2020-03-05T22:47:21.420" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;That is not possible without changing to a different printer main board. The Anet A8 board has 4 integrated (A4988) stepper drivers, one for X, one for Y, one for Z and one for E (extruder 0). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Uwsgt.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Uwsgt.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;Both Z steppers are controlled by a single stepper driver (they are wired in parallel to the single Z stepper driver), there is nothing to free up nor is there to configure in Marlin without replacing the main board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-03-06T07:59:39.180" LastActivityDate="2020-03-06T07:59:39.180" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12134" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12136" CreationDate="2020-03-07T04:42:16.830" Score="1" ViewCount="178" Body="&lt;p&gt;About a year ago, a bad print encased my hotend in PLA and I broke the wires due to my impatience trying to get the glob of PLA off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't remember the details of the disaster print, but generally the printer was working fine except I now know I was heating the bed too high and causing warped prints that I was trying to avoid by raising the bed temp.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to salvage the printer now, I bought a new hotend and build plate sticker. I don't want to name the supplier because I'm pretty sure these parts are irrelevant and I don't want this to seem like an advertisement. Anyways, install was pretty easy, I didn't disconnect any of the axis or feeder steppers control wires - just the hotend heater and thermistor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't think it should have anything to do with the bad print or the replacement parts, but now when I print I'm having major calibration issues. My entire print seems to be 2x scaled up. This is causing skipped stepper steps, grinding, etc for completely bad prints.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I ran at least part of a factory reset program before any trial prints because it was recommended online somewhere (which displayed weird 50&amp;nbsp;% complete message and that's all).  I most suspect the factory reset as my problem.  After the reset, I needed to flip the Y axis with an additional G-code instruction before it would home to the correct corner instead of grinding to the top-back-left.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;M502 ;     Restores default settings&#xA;M562 Y ;     Reverse Y  -- I had to add this to even get it to work as well as it does.&#xA;M500 ;     Saves the settings to EEPROM&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have read that I can adjust the axis scaling by an arbitrary factor with additional G-codes, but since I didn't mess with the printer other than the program above, I don't expect my scaling factor to be off by a random value, but more a common value that ALL mini select v2s need that I erased. But I am not finding info about this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am using Cura 4.5 and Cura knows I'm using a Mini Select v2 and the model I've loaded is known to Cura to be the right dimensions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the picture, you can see that Cura shows it is centered on the bed, but it actually prints off center. Also, the finished print is about 2x scaled in all three axes and lacks the material density of a correct print - it's printing only enough plastic for the correct size print, but spreading it over the scaled-up volume. The steppers are also skipping steps (I guess) so there are a few layer shifts in this print. What a mess! (It's supposed to say it's dimension on the top - &quot;23&amp;nbsp;mm&quot; but it actually measures about 46&amp;nbsp;mm but hard to say exactly due to the other print issues)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VHvx4.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VHvx4.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20318" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-03-07T07:17:58.583" LastActivityDate="2020-03-07T17:46:54.333" Title="2x scaling of Monoprice Mini Select v2 Firmware v30.50b after factory reset?" Tags="|calibration|monoprice-select-mini|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12135" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12139" CreationDate="2020-03-07T11:04:27.693" Score="0" ViewCount="1257" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Y-axis motor is really loud. The pitch of the sound varies depending the angle of the motor (in some angles the motor is silent, in others it's louder than a fan). I am looking for a solution because this is by far the loudest component of my printer. Is there any settings that could help making this motor quieter? If not, should I replace the motor or the board?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a short clip of the sound of the motor:&#xA;&lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/C_fRKteE-Ec?start=0&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20303" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-03-07T20:57:57.690" LastActivityDate="2020-03-07T20:57:57.690" Title="Y Axis motor is really loud" Tags="|anet-a8|motor|nema-17|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12136" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12134" CreationDate="2020-03-07T14:42:24.203" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Thanks for the comments!  They led me to find this solution using PuTTY on Windows as my serial (COM) terminal.  I guess one of my resets put the settings to 1/16th stepping whereas my hardware has 1/8th stepping.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;&amp;gt; M115&#xA;NAME: Malyan    VER: 3.0        MODEL: M200     HW: HA04&#xA;ok N0 P15 B15&#xA;&#xA;&amp;gt; M503&#xA;echo:Steps per unit:&#xA;echo:  M92 X93.00 Y93.00 Z1097.50 E97.00&#xA;echo:Maximum feedrates (mm/s):&#xA;echo:  M203 X150.00 Y150.00 Z1.50 E50.00&#xA;echo:Maximum Acceleration (mm/s2):&#xA;echo:  M201 X800 Y800 Z20 E10000&#xA;echo:Accelerations: P=printing, R=retract and T=travel&#xA;echo:  M204 P1500.00 R3000.00 T1500.00&#xA;echo:Advanced variables:&#xA;S=Min feedrate (mm/s),&#xA;T=Min travel feedrate (mm/s),&#xA;B=minimum segment time (ms),&#xA;X=maximum XY jerk (mm/s),&#xA;Z=maximum Z jerk (mm/s),&#xA;E=maximum E jerk (mm/s)&#xA;echo:  M205 S0.00 T0.00 B20000 X20.00 Z0.40 E5.00&#xA;echo:Home offset (mm):&#xA;echo:  M206 X0.00 Y0.00 Z0.00&#xA;echo:Invert axis: M562 XYZE&#xA;XYZABCD++-+-+-&#xA;echo:PID settings:&#xA;echo:  M301 P20.00 I0.02 D250.00 C100.00 L20&#xA;echo:  M304 P10.00 I0.02 D305.40&#xA;echo:Filament settings: Disabled&#xA;echo:  M200 D1.75&#xA;echo:  M200 D0&#xA;ok N0 P15 B15&#xA;&#xA;&amp;gt; M92 X46.50 Y46.50 Z548.75 E48.50 ; from https://www.mpselectmini.com/howto/steps_per_unit_mm&#xA;&amp;gt; M562 Y ; Invert Y because it was Homing to the wrong corner&#xA;&amp;gt; M206 X0.00 Y-2.00 Z0.00 ; Inverting the values from M114 once good Home manually found.&#xA;&amp;gt; G0 X0 Y0 ; testing the range of motion&#xA;&amp;gt; G0 X0 Y120 ; testing the range of motion&#xA;&amp;gt; G0 X120 Y120 ; testing the range of motion&#xA;&amp;gt; G0 X120 Y0 ; testing the range of motion&#xA;&amp;gt; M500 ; this saves the new values to EEPROM&#xA;&lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;```&lt;/span&gt;&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20318" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-03-07T17:46:54.333" LastActivityDate="2020-03-07T17:46:54.333" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12137" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-03-07T14:46:47.857" Score="2" ViewCount="528" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am using the SKR PRO board on a dual extruder 3D printer. I have tried Curaengine and Slic3r in Repetier-host. The printer firmware is handling the offset fine (it prints in the right spot for extruder 2 when it switches extruders) but it won't extrude any filament. When I type in T1 and manually extrude with the buttons in reetier-host it extrudes just fine. I have let it go for several layers without seeing any extrusion from the 2nd extruder. The main extruder works fine and doesn't extrude while the 2nd one is selected. Here is some of the g-code from curaengine slicing the dual extruder calibration cube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;;Generated with Cura_SteamEngine 15.01&#xA;; Default start code&#xA;G28 ; Home extruder&#xA;G1 Z15 F100&#xA;M107 ; Turn off fan&#xA;G90 ; Absolute positioning&#xA;M82 ; Extruder in absolute mode&#xA;M190 S50&#xA;; Activate all used extruder&#xA;M104 T0 S200&#xA;M104 T1 S200&#xA;G92 E0 ; Reset extruder position&#xA;; Wait for all used extruders to reach temperature&#xA;M109 T0 S200&#xA;M109 T1 S200&#xA;;Layer count: 100&#xA;;LAYER:0&#xA;M107&#xA;G0 F6000 X-10.960 Y3.540 Z0.200&#xA;;TYPE:SKIRT&#xA;G1 F1800 X-10.960 Y12.456 E0.26689&#xA;G1 X-23.956 Y12.456 E0.65592&#xA;G1 X-23.956 Y-0.540 E1.04494&#xA;G1 X-15.040 Y-0.540 E1.31183&#xA;G1 X-15.040 Y-23.540 E2.00032&#xA;G1 X12.040 Y-23.540 E2.81093&#xA;G1 X12.040 Y3.540 E3.62155&#xA;G1 X-10.960 Y3.540 E4.31003&#xA;G0 F6000 X-11.320 Y3.180&#xA;G1 F1800 X-11.320 Y12.096 E4.57693&#xA;G1 X-23.596 Y12.096 E4.94440&#xA;G1 X-23.596 Y-0.180 E5.31187&#xA;G1 X-14.680 Y-0.180 E5.57876&#xA;G1 X-14.680 Y-23.180 E6.26725&#xA;G1 X11.680 Y-23.180 E7.05631&#xA;G1 X11.680 Y3.180 E7.84537&#xA;G1 X-11.320 Y3.180 E8.53386&#xA;G1 F2400 E3.53386&#xA;G0 F6000 X-10.960 Y-10.540&#xA;;TYPE:WALL-INNER&#xA;G1 F2400 E8.53386&#xA;G1 F1800 X-10.960 Y-19.460 E8.80087&#xA;G1 X-2.040 Y-19.460 E9.06788&#xA;G1 X-2.040 Y-10.540 E9.33490&#xA;G1 X-10.960 Y-10.540 E9.60191&#xA;G0 F6000 X-11.320 Y-10.180&#xA;;TYPE:WALL-OUTER&#xA;G1 F1800 X-11.320 Y-19.820 E9.89047&#xA;G1 X-1.680 Y-19.820 E10.17904&#xA;G1 X-1.680 Y-10.180 E10.46760&#xA;G1 X-11.320 Y-10.180 E10.75617&#xA;G0 F6000 X-10.411 Y-10.665&#xA;;TYPE:SKIN&#xA;G1 F1800 X-10.833 Y-11.088 E10.77405&#xA;G0 F6000 X-10.833 Y-11.597&#xA;G1 F1800 X-9.902 Y-10.665 E10.81349&#xA;G0 F6000 X-9.393 Y-10.665&#xA;G1 F1800 X-10.833 Y-12.106 E10.87447&#xA;G0 F6000 X-10.833 Y-12.615&#xA;G1 F1800 X-8.884 Y-10.665 E10.95700&#xA;G0 F6000 X-8.374 Y-10.665&#xA;G1 F1800 X-10.833 Y-13.124 E11.06109&#xA;G0 F6000 X-10.833 Y-13.633&#xA;G1 F1800 X-7.865 Y-10.665 E11.18674&#xA;G0 F6000 X-7.356 Y-10.665&#xA;G1 F1800 X-10.833 Y-14.142 E11.33393&#xA;G0 F6000 X-10.833 Y-14.651&#xA;G1 F1800 X-6.847 Y-10.665 E11.50267&#xA;G0 F6000 X-6.338 Y-10.665&#xA;G1 F1800 X-10.833 Y-15.161 E11.69298&#xA;G0 F6000 X-10.833 Y-15.670&#xA;G1 F1800 X-5.829 Y-10.665 E11.90484&#xA;G0 F6000 X-5.320 Y-10.665&#xA;G1 F1800 X-10.833 Y-16.179 E12.13824&#xA;G0 F6000 X-10.833 Y-16.688&#xA;G1 F1800 X-4.811 Y-10.665 E12.39319&#xA;G0 F6000 X-4.302 Y-10.665&#xA;G1 F1800 X-10.833 Y-17.197 E12.66969&#xA;G0 F6000 X-10.833 Y-17.706&#xA;G1 F1800 X-3.792 Y-10.665 E12.96776&#xA;G0 F6000 X-3.283 Y-10.665&#xA;G1 F1800 X-10.833 Y-18.215 E13.28738&#xA;G0 F6000 X-10.833 Y-18.724&#xA;G1 F1800 X-2.774 Y-10.665 E13.62854&#xA;G0 F6000 X-2.265 Y-10.665&#xA;G1 F1800 X-10.833 Y-19.234 E13.99127&#xA;G0 F6000 X-10.423 Y-19.333&#xA;G1 F1800 X-2.165 Y-11.075 E14.34086&#xA;G0 F6000 X-2.165 Y-11.584&#xA;G1 F1800 X-9.914 Y-19.333 E14.66890&#xA;G0 F6000 X-9.405 Y-19.333&#xA;G1 F1800 X-2.165 Y-12.093 E14.97540&#xA;G0 F6000 X-2.165 Y-12.602&#xA;G1 F1800 X-8.896 Y-19.333 E15.26034&#xA;G0 F6000 X-8.386 Y-19.333&#xA;G1 F1800 X-2.165 Y-13.111 E15.52372&#xA;G0 F6000 X-2.165 Y-13.620&#xA;G1 F1800 X-7.877 Y-19.333 E15.76555&#xA;G0 F6000 X-7.368 Y-19.333&#xA;G1 F1800 X-2.165 Y-14.130 E15.98580&#xA;G0 F6000 X-2.165 Y-14.639&#xA;G1 F1800 X-6.859 Y-19.333 E16.18452&#xA;G0 F6000 X-6.350 Y-19.333&#xA;G1 F1800 X-2.165 Y-15.148 E16.36168&#xA;G0 F6000 X-2.165 Y-15.657&#xA;G1 F1800 X-5.841 Y-19.333 E16.51730&#xA;G0 F6000 X-5.332 Y-19.333&#xA;G1 F1800 X-2.165 Y-16.166 E16.65137&#xA;G0 F6000 X-2.165 Y-16.675&#xA;G1 F1800 X-4.823 Y-19.333 E16.76389&#xA;G0 F6000 X-4.314 Y-19.333&#xA;G1 F1800 X-2.165 Y-17.184 E16.85486&#xA;G0 F6000 X-2.165 Y-17.693&#xA;G1 F1800 X-3.804 Y-19.333 E16.92427&#xA;G0 F6000 X-3.295 Y-19.333&#xA;G1 F1800 X-2.165 Y-18.203 E16.97211&#xA;G0 F6000 X-2.165 Y-18.712&#xA;G1 F1800 X-2.786 Y-19.333 E16.99839&#xA;G0 F6000 X-2.277 Y-19.333&#xA;G1 F1800 X-2.165 Y-19.221 E17.00314&#xA;G92 E0&#xA;G1 F2400 E-5.00000&#xA;&#xA;T1&#xA;&#xA;G0 F6000 X-14.500 Y3.000&#xA;;TYPE:SUPPORT&#xA;G1 F2400 E0.00000&#xA;G1 F1800 X-14.500 Y8.916 E0.17709&#xA;G1 X-20.416 Y8.916 E0.35418&#xA;G1 X-20.416 Y3.000 E0.53127&#xA;G1 X-14.500 Y3.000 E0.70836&#xA;G0 F6000 X-14.878 Y2.940&#xA;G1 F1800 X-14.439 Y3.379 E0.72695&#xA;G0 F6000 X-14.439 Y3.945&#xA;'''&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20322" LastEditorUserId="20322" LastEditDate="2020-03-07T17:37:04.803" LastActivityDate="2020-03-07T23:13:49.197" Title="Marlin 2.0.x bugfix 2nd extruder not working" Tags="|marlin|ultimaker-cura|diy-3d-printer|repetier|repetier-host|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12138" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12121" CreationDate="2020-03-07T19:53:14.190" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;SOLVED -- The problem turned out to be that the BLtouch was set up for 3.3&amp;nbsp;V and my Anet board is 5&amp;nbsp;V. The docs were not clear on what the BL defaulted to and I mistakenly thought 5&amp;nbsp;V. After I did a &lt;code&gt;M280 P0 S140&lt;/code&gt; command, the carriage would home properly with &lt;code&gt;G28&lt;/code&gt;. Why it was going up instead of down was a Red Herring. I changed the settings in &lt;code&gt;configuration_adv.h&lt;/code&gt; to force 5&amp;nbsp;V and did the EEPROM one time write. Now the A8 works correctly. Thank you for your help Oscar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20278" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-03-07T21:03:07.830" LastActivityDate="2020-03-07T21:03:07.830" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12139" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12135" CreationDate="2020-03-07T20:46:02.537" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The sounds are mainly caused by the bed resonating with the stepper motor, and this will vary with the speed of the stepper motor. The best solution is to use &quot;silent&quot; stepper motor drivers (e.g. Trinamic), but you may be able to reduce the noise by:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Reducing the belt tension as much as possible.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Changing your print and/or move speeds.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fitting a stepper motor damper.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fitting TL smoothers (if you have A4988 drivers), although their efficacy is controversial.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have done all of the above with good results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3953" LastEditorUserId="3953" LastEditDate="2020-03-07T20:55:27.697" LastActivityDate="2020-03-07T20:55:27.697" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12140" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12137" CreationDate="2020-03-07T23:13:49.197" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Turns out that the Left and Right extruders turn the opposite direction so once I inverted E1 in marlin it is working fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20322" LastActivityDate="2020-03-07T23:13:49.197" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12142" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12147" CreationDate="2020-03-08T10:42:17.520" Score="2" ViewCount="1843" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am trying to print a box shaped object with an ELEGOO Mars SLA printer. I positioned the piece rotating it on X and Y axis 35 and 30 degrees. &#xA;However, the print fails because the piece does not stick to the supporting structure (see picture). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do you think that it could be a problem of the piece sticking to the display due to overexposure or deteriorated film? Or is it something else? &#xA;I tried two prints, lowering the exposure time from 8 to 6 seconds, the second print still failed but at least the piece is not totally stuck to the display. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any other idea?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First failed print with 8 seconds exposure: the film was completely jammed and all the resin was stuck there (this is why there is no piece on top of the supporting material)&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xnSMg.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xnSMg.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;First failed print&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second failed print with 6 seconds exposure: the film was perfectly clean, but the object did not stick to the supporting materials therefore collapsing. &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eOJOs.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eOJOs.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Second failed print pic1&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Yhxke.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Yhxke.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Second failed print pic2&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the 3D drawing&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/R9DZD.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/R9DZD.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;3D drawing&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20172" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-03-09T13:55:12.693" LastActivityDate="2020-03-09T13:55:12.693" Title="SLA printing: piece does not stick to supporting structures" Tags="|support-structures|sla|print-failure|support-material|elegoo-mars|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12143" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-03-08T18:02:00.230" Score="-1" ViewCount="2573" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I just recently bought the ELEGOO Mars SLA Printer... the first model I made turned out okay. It was a small helmet. Only 3 out of the 9 small helmets made it; so I thought it was my bed... I re-leveled my bed and went for it again. Stuck to the FEP film. I did research and sanded the bed for better adhesion, nothing, changed my FEP film something printed but it was considered failed as there were some cracks. I changed settings on my printer software, ChiTu Box Slicing Software, I even did the recommended settings and custom settings I found on YouTube, and still nothing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only variables I have not changed are the FEP film again, as it could be too tight. And different resin. I'm currently using the Grey ELegoo resin... Or replacing my LCD Screen.. If y'all can help it would mean a ton!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20330" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-03-09T08:14:21.370" LastActivityDate="2020-08-07T10:02:00.227" Title="ELEGOO Mars failed prints every time" Tags="|print-failure|elegoo-mars|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12144" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12149" CreationDate="2020-03-08T18:38:27.507" Score="0" ViewCount="1092" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've just added a Z-Probe sensor to my custom printer (&lt;code&gt;Arduino&lt;/code&gt; - &lt;code&gt;RAMPS 1.4&lt;/code&gt; - &lt;code&gt;Marlin 2&lt;/code&gt; default disabled EEPROM) but now I'm confused. Printer seems to work but I cannot configure the right nozzle height.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I use &lt;code&gt;Pronterface&lt;/code&gt; and before start printing I send &lt;code&gt;G29&lt;/code&gt; code. Printer succesfully ends bed calibration. At this point I start printing but the printer seems to ignore the calibration (no bed compensation). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do I need to run other commands to tell printer to use the previous calibration?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20151" LastActivityDate="2020-04-03T15:31:27.427" Title="Marlin bed autoleveling confusion" Tags="|marlin|bed-leveling|z-probe|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12147" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12142" CreationDate="2020-03-09T13:11:03.300" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have tried to print the piece upside-down with the cave part facing down and it worked.&#xA;Since the printer prints upside down, positioning the cave part facing up creates a suction-cup effect on the printer display that makes the whole structure stick to the lcd and detach from the supporting structure, thus making the print fail. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20172" LastActivityDate="2020-03-09T13:11:03.300" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12149" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12144" CreationDate="2020-03-09T21:44:46.093" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;When the printer ignores the scanned topology (grid) of the bed this means that the levelling is not active. &lt;code&gt;G29&lt;/code&gt; activates the &lt;code&gt;M420&lt;/code&gt; to enable the grid. A &lt;code&gt;G28&lt;/code&gt; after scanning the bed will reset this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You need to make sure that the start G-code (this is an optional script that is pasted before the sliced object) contains both the &lt;code&gt;G28&lt;/code&gt; and the &lt;code&gt;G29&lt;/code&gt;, where the &lt;code&gt;G28&lt;/code&gt; is placed above the &lt;code&gt;G29&lt;/code&gt; on separate lines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For each slicer this is defined in different places, bit if you use Pronterface for slicing, a good chance is that it uses the Slic3r engine. If I open an STL for slicing in Pronterface, it starts loading Slic3r.exe; this brings up the GUI for Slic3r which has options to define/modify the start G-code.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2020-03-09T21:44:46.093" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12150" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12122" CreationDate="2020-03-09T22:33:13.703" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I switched over to PrusaSlic3r and 99% of the issue went away even with copying settings straight over.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maybe Cura/S3D handle internal walls differently?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20282" LastActivityDate="2020-03-09T22:33:13.703" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12151" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-03-10T07:05:07.330" Score="0" ViewCount="2443" Body="&lt;p&gt;So for the past few months I have been printing in my Ender 3 and everything ran smoothly. But suddenly a few days ago I tried to print and the hot end temperature just keeps on rising past the set temperature of 230. I tried PID tuning, changing the nozzle, hot rod, and the thermistor  nothing seems to work.... I even took out the main board and check whether the solder joints are loose, none so far. Any ideas on how to fix the problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20341" LastActivityDate="2020-03-10T07:05:07.330" Title="Ender 3 overshot the set temperature and hitting MAX TEMP error" Tags="|creality-ender-3|hotend|nozzle|thermistor|pid|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12152" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12143" CreationDate="2020-03-10T08:02:08.747" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;let's go step by step - and rule out the unlikely sources. Since you get at least &lt;em&gt;some&lt;/em&gt; results, UV source and screen seem unlikely. Then you might want to make sure that the resin is ok. Let's try to put a droplet onto a sheet of paper/foil, which you tape down outside in the sun or under a UV light source - if it cures, the resin is ok.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first real step is to check your bed leveling. Go exactly by the handbook - you might be a tad far from the bed, which leads to sticking to the film. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then make sure your film is intact. You might need to swap resin vats to do that. in case the film is damaged, you have to swap it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastActivityDate="2020-03-10T08:02:08.747" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12153" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12154" CreationDate="2020-03-10T09:20:02.260" Score="1" ViewCount="27005" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Note&lt;/strong&gt;: This question is meant as a wiki to include all steps that are needed to update your printer with a self configured Marlin firmware version. The answer is a wiki that is currently in development and can be seen (and edited) by all users.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a printer and need to update my Marlin firmware to get some stuff done to my liking, especially to make sure I have &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/8466/what-is-thermal-runaway-protection&quot;&gt;TRP&lt;/a&gt;, have &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10571/how-to-activate-power-loss-recovery-in-marlin&quot;&gt;power loss recovery&lt;/a&gt; and then do a PID-tune. I am also not sure if a bootloader is flashed. So what I need is a step-by-step guide to:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;prepare my printer for flashing&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;configure my Marlin firmware&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;get my new Marlin firmware onto my printer&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-03-17T12:02:09.103" LastActivityDate="2020-03-17T12:56:16.847" Title="Updating Marlin Firmware - Step by Step Guide" Tags="|marlin|firmware|knowledgebase|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2020-03-10T10:46:25.543" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12154" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12153" CreationDate="2020-03-10T09:20:02.260" Score="6" Body="&lt;h1&gt;Step 0: extracting old settings &amp;amp; setting up&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first step is to get yourself a printing software that has a &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10573/what-is-a-printer-console-terminal&quot;&gt;Console or Terminal&lt;/a&gt; like present in &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.repetier.com/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Repetier Host&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.pronterface.com/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Pronterface&lt;/a&gt; (as part of the Printrun software suite), &lt;a href=&quot;https://octoprint.org/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;OctoPrint&lt;/a&gt; or any other tool (e.g. serial connection with PuTTY also works) that allows to communicate with the printer to extract the settings we already have. Once we have the software installed and the printer connected, send &lt;a href=&quot;http://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M503.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;code&gt;M503&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/a&gt; and copy the old settings into a file for later use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next, we need our development surroundings. Usually, you want to use &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6399/recalibrating-home-position/6660#6660&quot;&gt;Arduino IDE&lt;/a&gt; (but the &lt;a href=&quot;https://platformio.org/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;PlatformIO&lt;/a&gt; plugin as part of Visual Studio Code can be used for both Arduino based microprocessors as 32-bit processors), but you need to know what kind of board the control board of your printer is derived from because some boards have native IDEs that work better for them. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Step 1: Choice of Firmware&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By some metrics of early 2020, about 80&amp;nbsp;% of all shipped machines run Marlin in some fashion&lt;sup&gt;need citation&lt;/sup&gt;. The most prolific versions of Marlin at that point are often cited to be 1.1.9 and 2.x. Since anything before 1.1.9 is very much obsolete and needs an update anyway, we will look into 1.1.9 and 2.x only. Version 2.x was developed to include 32-bit microprocessors, but is compatible with 8-bit microprocessor printer boards. As the version jump indicates though, 2.x is pretty much an entire rewrite, so do your choice and jump to the correct next step.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Marlin 1.1.x&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Typically, you start by grabbing &lt;a href=&quot;https://marlinfw.org/meta/download/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;a blank Marlin 1.1.9&lt;/a&gt;. The next step is to alter the static settings of the printer to match yours in &lt;code&gt;Configuration.h&lt;/code&gt; - best use the settings from what we pulled earlier via &lt;code&gt;M503&lt;/code&gt; as a start. Alternatively, you can search for a configuration of your printer between known &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/tree/1.1.x/Marlin/example_configurations&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;configuration files&lt;/a&gt;. You should at least need to adjust these:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For communications and filament diameter:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#define BAUDRATE 250000&#xA;&#xA;// Generally expected filament diameter (1.75, 2.85, 3.0, ...). Used for Volumetric, Filament Width Sensor, etc.&#xA;#define DEFAULT_NOMINAL_FILAMENT_DIA 3.0&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Choose your correct temperature tables, and make sure to turn on the one for the bed if you have one!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#define TEMP_SENSOR_0 1&#xA;[...]&#xA;#define TEMP_SENSOR_BED 0&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next come two blocks that set the 'this is ok' temperature area, for the hotends and bed respectively (only hotend shown here).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;// Extruder temperature must be close to target for this long before M109 returns success&#xA;#define TEMP_RESIDENCY_TIME 10  // (seconds)&#xA;#define TEMP_HYSTERESIS 3       // (degC) range of +/- temperatures considered &quot;close&quot; to the target one&#xA;#define TEMP_WINDOW     1       // (degC) Window around target to start the residency timer x degC early.&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The next slot is an important safety feature: Mintemp and Maxtemp. Unless you seriously, positively know your hotend can do more than 275 °C (which means you have an all-metal hotend), &lt;strong&gt;DON'T&lt;/strong&gt; touch the Maxtemp, but you might set Mintemp to 0 °C if you like.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next come PID-Tuning settings, you only need to work with those if you know what you are doing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The next step is important also: make positively sure that these two lines are exactly as follows, no stray &lt;code&gt;//&lt;/code&gt; in front to comment them out. This is &lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/8466/what-is-thermal-runaway-protection&quot;&gt;TRP&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#define THERMAL_PROTECTION_HOTENDS // Enable thermal protection for all extruders&#xA;#define THERMAL_PROTECTION_BED     // Enable thermal protection for the heated bed&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your printer is a CoreXY or similarily uses 2 belts for moving along 2 axis, you look at the Mechanical Settings tab and alter it there, otherwise we skip further to the Endstop Settings. Enable (remove the leading &lt;code&gt;//&lt;/code&gt;) the max-endstops if you have them, the rest is usually not necessary on most consumer-grade machines, then go further to the Movement Settings. From our &lt;code&gt;M503&lt;/code&gt; we grab the settings to fill out the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT   { 80, 80, 4000, 500 }&#xA;#define DEFAULT_MAX_FEEDRATE          { 300, 300, 5, 25 }&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have a probe, you look into Z-Probe Options and follow &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/8153/how-to-set-z-probe-boundary-limits-in-firmware-when-using-automatic-bed-leveling/8154#8154&quot;&gt;0scar's guide here&lt;/a&gt;, skip it otherwise until you find the next snippet. Fix that one up to fit your bed and movement area. You might need to set values for the endstop to bed origin distance. These offsets, &lt;code&gt;X_MIN_POS&lt;/code&gt; and &lt;code&gt;Y_MIN_POS&lt;/code&gt;, need to contain the correct values to center the bed; see &lt;a href=&quot;/q/6375/&quot;&gt;&quot;How to center my prints on the build platform? (Re-calibrate homing offset)&#xA;&quot;&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;// The size of the print bed&#xA;#define X_BED_SIZE 200&#xA;#define Y_BED_SIZE 200&#xA;&#xA;// Travel limits (mm) after homing, corresponding to endstop positions.&#xA;#define X_MIN_POS 0 // Value of zero means that the origin of the bed is at the endstop&#xA;#define Y_MIN_POS 0 // Value of zero means that the origin of the bed is at the endstop&#xA;#define Z_MIN_POS 0 &#xA;#define X_MAX_POS X_BED_SIZE&#xA;#define Y_MAX_POS Y_BED_SIZE&#xA;#define Z_MAX_POS 200&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next, uncomment (remove the leading &lt;code&gt;//&lt;/code&gt;) the following line:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;//#define EEPROM_SETTINGS // Enable for M500 and M501 commands&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to have a special pause position, uncomment and define it in &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;//#define NOZZLE_PARK_FEATURE&#xA;#if ENABLED(NOZZLE_PARK_FEATURE)&#xA;  // Specify a park position as { X, Y, Z }&#xA;  #define NOZZLE_PARK_POINT { (X_MIN_POS + 10), (Y_MAX_POS - 10), 20 }&#xA;  #define NOZZLE_PARK_XY_FEEDRATE 100   // X and Y axes feedrate in mm/s (also used for delta printers Z axis)&#xA;  #define NOZZLE_PARK_Z_FEEDRATE 5      // Z axis feedrate in mm/s (not used for delta printers)&#xA;#endif&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We are on the finishing stretch, just a few things in this file remaining! Select your language with the line: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#define LCD_LANGUAGE en&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Turn on the SD-Card slot by uncommenting &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;//#define SDSUPPORT&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The last step we need to alter in the &lt;code&gt;Configuration.h&lt;/code&gt; is choosing the correct LCD controller. Uncomment the line corresponding to your printer - you might need to use a generic option.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Marlin 2.x&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Again, grab the 2.x marlin, either the &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Configurations/tree/release-2.0.4&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;blank base&lt;/a&gt; or a preconfigured version. For some printer styles (like Delta), you have to take a specialized set. Then we look at our &lt;code&gt;M503&lt;/code&gt;output and set our communications Baudrate and our motherboard (or the board it is derived from), then the number of extruders and the filament diameter:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#define BAUDRATE 250000&#xA;&#xA;#ifndef MOTHERBOARD&#xA;  #define MOTHERBOARD BOARD_RAMPS_14_EFB&#xA;#endif&#xA;&#xA;#define EXTRUDERS 1&#xA;&#xA;#define DEFAULT_NOMINAL_FILAMENT_DIA 3.0&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next we go to thermal settings! We need the correct temperature sensor table for hotend and bed, possibly we could lower MINTEMP to 0. &lt;strong&gt;Don't&lt;/strong&gt; touch MAXTEMP unless you know what you're doing and have a full-metal setup and you know your machine can take more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#define TEMP_SENSOR_0 1&#xA;[...]&#xA;#define TEMP_SENSOR_BED 0&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Our next step is &lt;strong&gt;making positively sure that TRP is on&lt;/strong&gt;. Make sure these lines have no leading &lt;code&gt;//&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#define THERMAL_PROTECTION_HOTENDS // Enable thermal protection for all extruders&#xA;#define THERMAL_PROTECTION_BED     // Enable thermal protection for the heated bed&#xA;#define THERMAL_PROTECTION_CHAMBER // Enable thermal protection for the heated chamber&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the printer is a CoreXY or similar, enable the style in the mechanical settings area.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Enable (remove the leading //) the max-endstops if you have them, the rest is usually not necessary on most consumer-grade machines, then go further to the Movement Settings. From our M503 we grab the settings to fill out the following: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT   { 80, 80, 4000, 500 }&#xA;#define DEFAULT_MAX_FEEDRATE          { 300, 300, 5, 25 }&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have a probe, you need to set it up - &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/8153/how-to-set-z-probe-boundary-limits-in-firmware-when-using-automatic-bed-leveling/8154#8154&quot;&gt;0scar has a partial guide&lt;/a&gt; - and it is all in the Z Probe Options area! Otherwise, go on. We need to go down, and in the middle of the Probe setup, we find the bed settings. Set them up to fit your printer and possibly the offset from the home-switches to the build volume corner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;// The size of the print bed&#xA;#define X_BED_SIZE 200&#xA;#define Y_BED_SIZE 200&#xA;&#xA;// Travel limits (mm) after homing, corresponding to endstop positions.&#xA;#define X_MIN_POS 0&#xA;#define Y_MIN_POS 0&#xA;#define Z_MIN_POS 0&#xA;#define X_MAX_POS X_BED_SIZE&#xA;#define Y_MAX_POS Y_BED_SIZE&#xA;#define Z_MAX_POS 200&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Down to Additional Features we go! Let's turn on the EEPROM by uncommenting (removing the &lt;code&gt;//&lt;/code&gt;)...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;//#define EEPROM_SETTINGS     // Persistent storage with M500 and M501&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;...and think about how you want to set up your preheats or where to have your special park position. But then comes the last part, which we really need to do: Set up the interface. Start by changing the language and turn on the SD-Slot by uncommenting the lower of these lines:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#define LCD_LANGUAGE en&#xA;&#xA;//#define SDSUPPORT&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Our last stop on setting up the basics is LCD / Controller Selection. We need to uncomment the right one here. If you don't find yours, use a generic one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Step 2: Preparing the Board&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are 2 variants here: either you use a bootloader, or you prepare a .hex file for overwriting the whole firmware. In either case, we need to know what board we have, so we can compile with the correct encoding and setup. You might need to install a proper extension!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;2.1 - Bootloader&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A lot of boards come with a pre-flashed bootloader, which makes installing and revising software very fast. But not all boards have one flashed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Flashing a bootloader needs you to have an Arduino and some cables or a different ISP or AVR programming tool. Complete instructions can be found &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6685/how-to-install-new-atmega-firmware-via-the-isp-pins/6686#6686&quot;&gt;here by Greenonline&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11338/flashing-a-bootloader-on-ender-3-without-arduino&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; by &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/11339/8884&quot;&gt;Robert Lo Giacco&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/11347/8884&quot;&gt;jpa&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or you take your control board to your local maker space and ask someone there to help you flash the bootloader - most maker spaces have at least someone that has an Arduino and can help you!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;2.2 - .hex file&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this case, we don't need to do anything in &lt;em&gt;this&lt;/em&gt; step. We'll have a different installation process though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Step 3: Compiling &amp;amp; Installing Firmware&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on your choice in the previous Step, you have to follow the corresponding branch here:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;3.1 - Bootloader&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have set your bootloader, now installing firmware is as simple as connecting your computer with the printer using a direct connection and doing a compile &amp;amp; Upload command. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;3.2 - .hex file&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After preparing your .hex file, you can upload it with one of the variants shown &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6654/how-to-install-a-hex-firmware&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; by &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/6656/8884&quot;&gt;Greenonline&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/6655/8884&quot;&gt;Trish&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/7559/8884&quot;&gt;Thomas Weller&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Step 4: Finishing touches&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Seeding&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Directly after installing up our new firmware on the printer, we &lt;strong&gt;need&lt;/strong&gt; to seed our settings. Connect to the printer via any Console or Terminal (see Step 0) and use these commands&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;M502&#xA;M500&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://3daddict.com/pid-tune-3d-printer/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;PID Tune&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then we run a PID-Tune. For the first extruder we send:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;M303 E0 S200 C3&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It will run the machine some and return values named Kp, Ki &amp;amp; Kd. These directly correspond with P I &amp;amp; D. Store them into the EEPROM and save with the following: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;M301 P##.## I#.## D##.##&#xA;M500&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2020-03-17T12:56:16.847" LastActivityDate="2020-03-17T12:56:16.847" CommentCount="2" CommunityOwnedDate="2020-03-10T09:20:02.260" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12155" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-03-10T10:43:56.213" Score="0" ViewCount="982" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm running the autotune PID because I had to replace the hotend. The command that I launch is &lt;code&gt;M303 E0 S200 C9&lt;/code&gt;. But from the temperature chart I see that he has only made two cycles, after which the autotune control seems to have gone mad and has remained stable on 213° C and is no longer doing autotune cycles. After a while I get &lt;code&gt;Recv: PID Autotune failed! timeout&lt;/code&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am using Marlin Firmware version 2.0.3 (GitHub) installed on a MKS Gen v1.4 (Arduino MEGA 2560) board. The MKS Gen board replaces the original one of a Geeetech Prusa i3 Pro B. Hotend is 12V.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do you have any suggestions? Has anyone experienced something like this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8mamw.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8mamw.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;UPDATE:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I redo the PID Autotune and now I get a sawtooth:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/usnTG.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/usnTG.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13287" LastEditorUserId="13287" LastEditDate="2020-03-10T16:19:48.673" LastActivityDate="2020-03-10T16:19:48.673" Title="PID Autotune not working properly" Tags="|calibration|hotend|pid|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12156" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-03-10T14:18:31.390" Score="1" ViewCount="480" Body="&lt;p&gt;How do I remove the residue left by TPU plastic ? I used to print with ABS plastic and while it left a little bit of residue, I could remove it with Isopropyl alcohol and then scrap it with my spatula.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I just did my first print with TPU and it left a ring in my bed. No matter how hard I scrap or rub with the alcohol it won't go off :(&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any tips ?&#xA;Edit here are my images: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qBAN0.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qBAN0.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Plastic&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Gg8uc.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Gg8uc.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Bed&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19675" LastEditorUserId="19675" LastEditDate="2020-03-10T21:32:27.137" LastActivityDate="2020-03-10T21:32:27.137" Title="TPU Plastic leaving residue in my bed" Tags="|heated-bed|cleaning|plastic|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12158" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12161" CreationDate="2020-03-10T17:54:59.613" Score="1" ViewCount="1825" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a LultzBot TAZ 6 3D printer and the software I use for my prints is &quot;Cura LulzBot Edition - 3.6.3&quot;. Recently, I have begun to play around with the parameters in Cura relating to initial layer adhesion. One such parameter is the &lt;code&gt;Initial Layer Flow Rate&lt;/code&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, after manipulating this parameter several times and evaluating the pieces that have been printed subsequently, it seems quite apparent to me that a manipulation in this parameter is affecting all subsequent layers that are printed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, if I &lt;strong&gt;increase&lt;/strong&gt; the &lt;code&gt;Initial Layer Flow Rate&lt;/code&gt; from the default setting of 100&amp;nbsp;% to 130&amp;nbsp;%, layer 2, layer 3,...layer n all appear to be printed at at a flow rate of 130&amp;nbsp;% resulting in prints that are clearly &quot;overextruded&quot; (e.g. the finished surfaces are incredibly uneven, bumpy, etc).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Similarly, if I &lt;strong&gt;decrease&lt;/strong&gt; the &lt;code&gt;Initial Layer Flow Rate&lt;/code&gt; from the default setting 100&amp;nbsp;% to 70&amp;nbsp;%...all subsequent layers are clearly underextruded (e.g. walls are not connected at all and floor/ceiling have visible gaps).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why is this happening? Directly above the Initial Layer Flow Rate parameter is a parent setting that is simply named &quot;Flow&quot;. (refer to below picture)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YTG5R.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YTG5R.png&quot; alt=&quot;Cura Parameters&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do I need to manipulate flow in order to avoid this from happening?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All I want to do is change &lt;strong&gt;exclusively&lt;/strong&gt; the initial layer's flow rate (for better adhesion on larger pieces)...but my current method is not accomplishing this. Any suggestions?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$\color{red}{\text{EDIT}}$&lt;/span&gt; - After reading the comments, I just wanted to clarify that I have let my parts &quot;be printed to completion&quot;. The obersvations that I am making about underextrusion or overextrusion are in reference to the &lt;em&gt;total structure&lt;/em&gt; (not just the first several layers). These are large structures (~12 hour prints).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20345" LastEditorUserId="20345" LastEditDate="2020-03-10T22:21:09.710" LastActivityDate="2020-03-11T02:24:55.590" Title="Cura Parameter Confusion: Initial Layer Flow Rate" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|lulzbot-taz-6|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12159" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-03-11T00:34:49.747" Score="1" ViewCount="1741" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have some issue with my BLTouch (I'm new to bed levelling) :&#xA;I compiled Marlin 2.x (for my SKR 1.3) for a Antclabs BLTouch, and everytime I power on the printer, it shows this error message: &lt;code&gt;Failed to enable Bed Leveling, echo Bed Levelling off, echo : Fade Height 0, FF, ok&lt;/code&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YYwAD.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YYwAD.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;BLTouch error message on LCD display&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The LED of the BLTouch is on, I can still deploy and stow the pin, and do &quot;levelling ABL&quot; but Homing Z (for example) is not working.&#xA;I linked the config.h and config_adv.h in case needed below:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachments/493040686564638735/687094545774936064/Configuration.h&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Configuration.h&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachments/493040686564638735/687094551256760341/Configuration_adv.h&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Configuration_adv.h&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20178" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-03-11T09:38:11.623" LastActivityDate="2021-04-29T02:37:15.580" Title="BLTouch error Marlin 2.x (on SKR 1.3)" Tags="|marlin|firmware|bed-leveling|bltouch|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12161" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12158" CreationDate="2020-03-11T02:24:55.590" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're over- or under-extruding by a 30% margin, there is going to be so much excess or deficiency of material in the first layer that it will take a few layers to &quot;catch up&quot;. Normally you would only adjust the flow by 5% or at most 10% unless you're using it to correct for compression of the filament in the extruder gear (for flexible filaments), but adjusting first layer flow only is &lt;em&gt;always a hack&lt;/em&gt; to work around incorrect bed height or adhesion problems. You'd do much better to figure out the right solution to whatever problem you're trying to solve with flow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2020-03-11T02:24:55.590" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12164" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10712" CreationDate="2020-03-11T13:21:36.783" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Then you need to add water cooling system for them.&#xA;Something like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XwxyD.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;trianglelab Stepper motor liquld cooling  motor water cooling upgrade kit for Nema17 motor ETC&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XwxyD.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;trianglelab Stepper motor liquld cooling  motor water cooling upgrade kit for Nema17 motor ETC&quot; title=&quot;trianglelab Stepper motor liquld cooling  motor water cooling upgrade kit for Nema17 motor ETC&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, water cooled hotend would be a go ahead I guess.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9733" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-03-11T18:19:58.920" LastActivityDate="2020-03-11T18:19:58.920" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12165" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12166" CreationDate="2020-03-11T13:30:26.667" Score="1" ViewCount="916" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm getting a pet bird soon, and I know that off-gassing from heating PTFE above 300&amp;nbsp;°C creates noxious fumes, which are bird-killer&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;. To try to prevent even the chance of that I'm replacing my hotend with an all-metal one. I have an E3D v6 1.75&amp;nbsp;mm, which I noticed still uses a PTFE tube at the cold side (the 3&amp;nbsp;mm version apparently doesn't, but 1.75&amp;nbsp;mm filament is what my printer uses, so there we are).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I'm reading the instructions correctly, it sounds like the heatsink shouldn't even get warm to the touch, and if that's the case I'm not worried as long as things go well. What I'm still worried about is what happens if the heatsink cooling fan fails. I plan to plug the fan into the always-on 12&amp;nbsp;V port on my board (SKR 1.3): if I do, then is it possible to set my firmware (currently Marlin 2.0.4.4) to stop a print if the fan fails?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I can't get the firmware to stop on fan failure, then is there a 1.75&amp;nbsp;mm all-metal hotend out there that doesn't require the use of PTFE on the cold side?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1- &lt;a href=&quot;http://healthline.com/nutrition/nonstick-cookware-safety&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Here:&lt;/a&gt; &quot;at temperatures above 570°F (300°C), Teflon [PTFE] coatings on nonstick cookware start to break down, releasing toxic chemicals into the air &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC3276392/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;(14)&lt;/a&gt;&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16353" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-03-11T18:00:51.933" LastActivityDate="2020-03-19T23:37:59.837" Title="All-metal hotend, cooling fan failures, and cold-side PTFE" Tags="|firmware|hotend|safety|cooling|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12166" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12165" CreationDate="2020-03-11T15:25:13.527" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;First of all, we need to discuss the failure mode and what can be done. LEt's do a&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Failure mode 1: coolend-fan stops working.&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's assume the coolend-fan for whatever reason (cut cable, defect fan, burnt board...) stops working. As a result, the coolend starts to rise in temperature, as it doesn't drain as much heat into the room air as before. This directly leads to an increase of the hotend temperature, which results in a case differentiation:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The hotend does not cope well with the loss of the heatsink and it triggers Thermal Runaway protection as for a given voltage bump the heating gets too high - the print gets aborted before the hotend reaches a temperature above 275 °C.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The hotend does not trigger Thermal Runaway Protection but the controller alters its heating behavior and works the heater on a lower duty cycle. As long as the hotend temperature is ordered to stay low enough, we will get a lot of extrusion problems from heat-creep, but the PTFE seated into the heatbreak stays below the heater break's temperature, as the thermal mass of the coolend alone draws away thermal energy into the room, even without the fan that keeps it at room temperature. As long as you don't print at above 300 °C and the thermosensor is intact, the failure mode does not release any fumes that could result in Polytetrafluoroethylene Toxicosis.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Failure Mode 2: coolend fan stops Working, no TRP, Thermosensor OK&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But what if TRP is off? Let's look at this Double Failure: The hotend does not trigger Thermal Runaway Protection (or it was turned off to begin with) and the temperature increases due to the lack of cooling from the coolend.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As the hotend reaches 275 °C (few printers print that hot, and they use specialized setups), it should trigger the next safety line: a MaxTemp error and cut power. Heating stops before the coolend gets to the dangerous zone of 300 °C, as the coolend always is less hot than the heater block.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Failure Mode 3: no TRP, Thermosensor broken&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We are getting desperate and turn off TRP, &lt;em&gt;then&lt;/em&gt; break or disconnect the thermosensor to get a static low temperature. NOW we are getting serious, as only with such a failure we can trick our controller to continuously heat the heater cartridge and not trigger any of the error conditions. Only now there is the mere possibility to heat the coolend over 300 °C.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Marlin Firmware is designed to carefully work with checks and balances to keep the heater block in the wanted margin, and it would need a &lt;strong&gt;deliberate manipulation&lt;/strong&gt; of the software to &lt;strong&gt;disable&lt;/strong&gt; all safety features &lt;strong&gt;in conjunction&lt;/strong&gt; with the failure of the thermosensor for the printer to go into Thermal runaway in such a degree that the coolend goes over 300 °C. And then you have different problems: your printer surely is turning into a molten pile in that failure mode. The presence or absence of the coolend fan would just delay the inevitable, should you run such a fire hazard-machine&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Conclusion&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/12153/updating-marlin-firmware-step-by-step-guide&quot;&gt;Configure and install a recent firmware distribution&lt;/a&gt; (Marlin 1.1.9 and Marlin 2.x come with TRP enabled by default) and be sure to have MaxTemp enabled at 275 °C and Thermal Runaway Protection on, and you have a 3-layer safety against PTFE-fumes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Adding more layers surely is possible, but the cost-effect calculation gets worse starting there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:29:41.667" LastActivityDate="2020-03-11T15:32:45.330" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12168" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-03-12T01:16:56.140" Score="1" ViewCount="978" Body="&lt;p&gt;We are using the Board SKR 1.3 with the following pins:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;/**&#xA; * Trinamic Stallguard pins&#xA; */&#xA;#define X_DIAG_PIN           P1_29   // X-&#xA;#define Y_DIAG_PIN           P1_27   // Y-&#xA;#define Z_DIAG_PIN           P1_25   // Z-&#xA;#define E0_DIAG_PIN          P1_28   // X+&#xA;#define E1_DIAG_PIN          P1_26   // Y+&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We need a double Z motor, so We have defined the number of stepper drivers to 2 and it works like a charm:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#define NUM_Z_STEPPER_DRIVERS 2&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is the problem, We need to have a single extruder with &lt;strong&gt;two heating zones&lt;/strong&gt;, not a real second extruder. We have defined the number of extruders to 2:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#define EXTRUDERS 2&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We want to reinforce that the second extruder does not exist, we only need the &lt;strong&gt;second heating zone&lt;/strong&gt;. It's a big hotend with two different heating cartridges, that is, two different temperatures. So we do not need the stepper driver, only the temperature.&#xA;Then we get the following error messages:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5jNEg.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5jNEg.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We have thought of enabling the chamber and use it's pin, but we got stuck with all the structure for it:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#define TEMP_SENSOR_CHAMBER 5&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#define CHAMBER_MAXTEMP  250  // Extruder first temperature zone&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#define HEATER_CHAMBER_PIN 24&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14383" LastEditorUserId="14383" LastEditDate="2020-03-16T23:27:21.890" LastActivityDate="2020-10-14T05:04:16.300" Title="How to have double extruder and double Z motor on a 5-driver board?" Tags="|skr-v1.3|extruder-driver|chamber|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12169" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12168" CreationDate="2020-03-12T20:37:13.270" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I second the previous answer if running second Z motor in parallel, just split wires or buy adapter consisting of two females to one male, Z motor on most printers don't draw huge current (or at least in smaller less frequent intervals to give things time to cool). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Erm I extruder with two temperature zones, hmmm buy a larger heating element, like a E3D Volcano or I believe they have an extreme version now, mine is rated for 40&amp;nbsp;W+.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or you could use external MOSFET with separate Arduino PID.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20362" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-03-12T21:03:22.803" LastActivityDate="2020-03-12T21:03:22.803" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12170" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10767" CreationDate="2020-03-12T20:55:44.490" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hmm I seen videos off people pealing filters off of lcd screens to let uv pass through.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I believe the sharp unit maybe popular because not all lcds have square pixels and have poor pixel alignment towards the edges, (the focus of the eye can only take in so much information why waste materials producing inperceptable rises in quality, much like having a 8k small screen unless the picture is static your hard pushed to notice difference).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is also diffraction to think about, crystal size in the resin, oxygen membrane or delamination layer to stop cured resin sticking to lcd, I think there are projects of floating resin on another liquid (fluorinated oils work).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even with better resolution(4k,) the voxel size does not increase in a linear manner, unless the uv light source is focused an colimated like in a lazer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know much its just info I've gleaned whilst browsing, I'm sure someone will correct any inaccuracies. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20362" LastActivityDate="2020-03-12T20:55:44.490" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12171" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-03-13T10:12:10.530" Score="1" ViewCount="12296" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my custom printer I have probe and nozzle at same height and configured Marlin this way:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#define NOZZLE_TO_PROBE_OFFSET { 43, -20, 0 }&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the bed I've a 2&amp;nbsp;mm glass. How I need to change the configuration? Do I need to act adding a positive Z offset? like this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#define NOZZLE_TO_PROBE_OFFSET { 43, -20, 2 }&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20151" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-03-13T12:00:20.460" LastActivityDate="2020-03-13T13:22:02.673" Title="Marlin NOZZLE_TO_PROBE_OFFSET with glass" Tags="|marlin|nozzle|z-probe|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12172" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12171" CreationDate="2020-03-13T11:30:51.743" Score="1" Body="&lt;h1&gt;No.&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You define the Z-Value of the Nozzle to Probe offset mainly to get avoidance of collisions, but it is checked nowhere in the firmware code at all. Usually, the probe is mounted a millimeter or so above the nozzle anyway: you mount it in such a fashion that it triggers when the nozzle has the correct distance to the bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you alter the bed by altering the distance between the nozzle and the metal part of the bed, you might need to alter the physical position of the probe to get the printer to trigger at the correct height, but you don't necessarily need to add a Z-offset.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might, however, want to include it in the slicer for the case you want to print items in a sequence, which forces most slicers to try to do an error-avoidance pattern.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:29:41.667" LastActivityDate="2020-03-13T12:02:05.240" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12173" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12171" CreationDate="2020-03-13T12:15:37.833" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can define the probe offset (or better the trigger point to bed level distance) in the array definition of &lt;code&gt;NOZZLE_TO_PROBE_OFFSET&lt;/code&gt;, but it is not the usual and logical place to do that. Instead you position the probe higher than the nozzle and define the offset later when calibrating the bed level. A positive value is a positive offset, Z+.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This answer is intended to be a more generic answer for Z-offset determination. The question is not clear on what kind of Z-probe is used. In case of a touch (or an inductive or a capacitive) probe, a probe trigger point defines how far the probe needs to be from the bed level (the sensor is always placed higher than the nozzle). This trigger point is a measure for the offset and used to determine the distance of the nozzle to the bed print surface (using the offset). Correct installation is trivial, as is the determination of the nozzle to trigger point definition. For a touch sensor, the probing element is either stowed, fully deployed, or pushed in during leveling up to the point that the trigger point is reached and the probe stowes the rest of the pin, see figure:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wdto7.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wdto7.png&quot; alt=&quot;BLTouch or 3DTouch sensor Z-offset definition&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;code&gt;M851 Zxx.xx&lt;/code&gt; offset is determined by lowering the nozzle beyond the trigger point until the nozzle hits a sheet of paper. If the stowed position to nozzle distance is used, the distance is too large and the nozzle will dive into the bed on printing. A similar sketch for inductive/capacitive proximity probes can be drawn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2sGwU.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2sGwU.png&quot; alt=&quot;Inductive/capacitive proximity sensor Z-offset definition&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-03-13T13:22:02.673" LastActivityDate="2020-03-13T13:22:02.673" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12174" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-03-13T17:37:16.377" Score="2" ViewCount="301" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm running a large delta 3D printer with Repetier firmware.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem that is irritating me is that the speed of the carriages are too slow, like an old lady that is walking in a football field. When I command &lt;code&gt;G1 Z10&lt;/code&gt;, for example, the carriages move with a super low speed. I checked everything but I couldn't find the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are the specifics and the current settting of the printer:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;electronics : Arduino Due + RADDS 3 42cmo6 6 kg&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2.5 A stepper motors for x,y and z axes &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;3 TOSHIBA ''TB67S109'' stepper drivers (0.1 resistance, 1/16 mic stepping) &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Vref of drivers: 0.7 V (when I    increase this to 1 volt a weird&#xA;sound comes from steppers and the carriages won't move)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;number of pulley teeth: 20 &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;belt pitch: 2&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;steps per rev: 200&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;micro stepping: 1/16&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;steps per mm: 80&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Max. travel speed: 300 for X,Y,Z&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Homing speed: 100 for X,Y,Z&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Travel acceleration: 3000 for X,Y,Z&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Print acceleration: 1000 for X,Y,Z&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PS: I'm currently calibrating the printer and haven't printed anything yet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20369" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-03-15T18:15:26.597" LastActivityDate="2021-04-09T23:01:55.257" Title="Slow speed of the delta 3D printer" Tags="|troubleshooting|delta|repetier|speed|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12175" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-03-13T17:52:51.177" Score="0" ViewCount="841" Body="&lt;p&gt;I own an Ender 3 that I bought in December 2018. I have now a problem with under extrusion that I don't know how to solve. I tried everything: I changed the nozzle, changed the PTFE, changed the filament, dismantled the hotend and controlled that nothing was blocking the flow. The problem is that it isn't a normal under extrusion: in fact, the printing starts quite well, then for some reason the filament doesn't flow anymore. If I try to push the filament I feel like there is a gap that, if I continue pushing, it's &quot;filled&quot; and then the plastic continues to flow normally for some time. And when it has to do very little parts of the printing, this problem occurs, and the final result is a disaster. I hope someone can help me because I don't know what to do. The photos show the condition of the printing, and I have also a brief video that explains the situation better. I added also an image of the original CAD file, so you can see how it should have been, and another project where you can see missing layers when things get &quot;difficult&quot; to print (but, in the past, the printer worked perfectly with such projects!) and a simple parallelepiped, that the printer printed perfectly (I assume it's because it never stops sending filament, I don't know). Thank you for your time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;DropBox link for the photos: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.dropbox.com/sh/xav38c8tw8mgs8h/AAA7VGypWIrIR0RwB4Ih3O7ma?dl=0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.dropbox.com/sh/xav38c8tw8mgs8h/AAA7VGypWIrIR0RwB4Ih3O7ma?dl=0&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;YouTube link for the video (I recorded the printer printing and made a video with the most important moments such as when there is under extrusion; the video lasts 4 minutes and it can help you find the problem): &lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/tYBQed5ubqk?start=0&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20368" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2020-03-13T19:58:19.500" LastActivityDate="2020-03-13T19:58:19.500" Title="Casual under-extruding on Ender 3 (don't know what to do anymore!)" Tags="|creality-ender-3|troubleshooting|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12176" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12175" CreationDate="2020-03-13T18:35:48.030" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You may have a problem with the nozzle heat setting being too low for the flow rate, which is directly related to the travel speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a background, when you're printing fast, the stepper motor driving the extruder has to move filament more quickly. That's obvious, but what is overlooked often is that the heater may not be able to move heat quickly enough to keep up with the filament.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Consider increasing your hot end temperature by five degree steps until you observe that the under-extrusion is resolved. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some colors and brands of filament require adjustment in hot end temperatures. I'm currently printing with silk-like PLA. The filament I usually use prints at 210°C while it was necessary to turn up the temperature to 225°C to prevent nozzle clog.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not yet viewed in my inbox is a YouTube subscription notice regarding &quot;calibrating your hot end:&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0xRtypDjNvI&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;YouTube hot end calibration&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suspect it may be of value to you in your current situation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastActivityDate="2020-03-13T18:35:48.030" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12177" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-03-13T20:25:13.257" Score="0" ViewCount="69" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to FDM 3D-print an object, and be able to effectively clean the surface with standard kitchen cleaning solutions. While the 3D-printed object would not come in direct contact with food, it would come in contact with utensils used with food (e.g. forks, measuring cups, etc.). One of my main concerns is with being able to adequately clean the object when layer lines and general material porosity create areas that dirt/germs may accumulate. I believe my general requirements are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;No high temperatures are anticipated&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Common FDM materials (PLA, ABS, PETG)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Coatings or post-processing is fine&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do I make a 3D-printed surface easily cleanable and relatively food-safe?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11222" LastActivityDate="2020-03-13T21:00:31.770" Title="Making a 3D printed surface easily cleanable" Tags="|post-processing|food|cleaning|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12178" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12177" CreationDate="2020-03-13T20:50:29.873" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;There is a huge difference between &quot;Certified food -safe&quot; and &quot;is actually perfectly safe for you to use at home&quot; . – Carl Witthoft Sep 18 '18 at 14:54&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regarding &lt;strong&gt;certified food safe&lt;/strong&gt; I point to &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6937/ender-3-is-capable-of-food-safe-printing&quot;&gt;Ender 3 is capable of food safe printing?&lt;/a&gt; - you probably can't get the certification with a 3D printer, but, as Carl said, you might manage a &lt;em&gt;pretty safe at home&lt;/em&gt;. So let's assume you go for that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To make a surface easily cleanable, it is best to make sure that the imperfections of the print are filled up and that there are no undercuts that are not easily cleanable. If you need it smoothed, do it mechanically (e.g. sanding)! Heat or chemicals as a smoothing method are to be avoided, as they can damage the print and accumulate the chemicals used in smoothing in the plastic from where they are released over time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To make the material both smooth and more safe at the same time, a generous coating with a food-safe lacquer or similar coating would be possible. This also might alleviate the problems with possibly having contaminants in the printing material - we don't know always what is in the printed plastic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2020-03-13T21:00:31.770" LastActivityDate="2020-03-13T21:00:31.770" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12183" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-03-15T01:58:27.723" Score="1" ViewCount="404" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a LultzBot TAZ 6 3D printer and the software I use for my prints is &quot;Cura LulzBot Edition - 3.6.3&quot;. All of my printing settings/parameters are at their defaults (i.e. no personal customization is employed). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Below, two pictures are included that highlight an issue I have observed in many of my prints; these prints are carried out using the &quot;&lt;strong&gt;default&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;strong&gt;settings&lt;/strong&gt;&quot; provided by Cura for &lt;strong&gt;PLA&lt;/strong&gt;. The two pictures are different orientations of the same printed out object; the volume of interest is outlined in &lt;strong&gt;red&lt;/strong&gt;. Additionally, this volume represents the first several layers that are laid down by the extruder. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am not familiar enough with 3D printing jargon to know if this has a particular name, but as you can see, there is clearly a &lt;em&gt;lack of homogeneity&lt;/em&gt; in the laying down of several consecutive layers. Depending on the object being printed, this is not necessarily an issue. However, some of my objects have features that occur near the first several layers and are therefore affected by this issue. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally, some of the these objects are &lt;em&gt;inserted&lt;/em&gt; into other pieces, which are designed to be very tight-fitting. If you look carefully, you will see that this lack of homogeneity in the layer deposition leads to &lt;em&gt;bulging&lt;/em&gt; of the PLA, which can increase the thickness of the part by ~0.5 - 1.00 mm for several layers. This increased thickness prevents these insertion pieces from fitting into their appropriate locations. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any suggestions for fixing this issue? Is it an issue of over-extrusion for the first layer that then propagates for a few additional layers? Remember, all settings are at their software defaults for PLA.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nogAT.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nogAT.png&quot; alt=&quot;First Angle&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tbcq9.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tbcq9.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20345" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-03-15T07:53:27.317" LastActivityDate="2020-03-17T21:44:21.737" Title="Lack of smoothness / homogeneity in several first layers of print" Tags="|print-quality|ultimaker-cura|lulzbot-taz-6|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12184" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12174" CreationDate="2020-03-15T08:07:37.950" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;When you command a move such as &lt;code&gt;G1 Z10&lt;/code&gt;, you are omitting the speed at which the tool head travels. Without specifying the speed, the speed from the last command or speed setting is used. Frequently, after levelling the bed, the tool head is raised in Z direction with a low speed (movement in Z direction is always much slower than in X or Y direction), if you command a movement after raising the tool head it uses this speed. For faster movement you must include the feedrate, e.g. &lt;code&gt;G1 Z10 F600&lt;/code&gt;, now it will accelerate from the initial feedrate (e.g. 300) to 600 during the move. If you want instant speed you set the feedrate first and then move the tool head:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;G1 F600&#xA;G1 Z10&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2020-03-15T08:07:37.950" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12186" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-03-15T15:24:42.390" Score="0" ViewCount="36" Body="&lt;p&gt;I really don't know what I am doing wrong. Since changing my bed level sensor from left of the extruder to back mount, it doesn't work proper anymore and I have some fundamental thing I don´t understand. &#xA;My settings:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#define LEFT_PROBE_BED_POSITION -89&#xA;#define RIGHT_PROBE_BED_POSITION 90&#xA;#define BACK_PROBE_BED_POSITION 145&#xA;#define FRONT_PROBE_BED_POSITION 10&#xA;&#xA;#define X_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER 6&#xA;#define Y_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER 60&#xA;#define Z_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER -1.4&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now the first thing I don´t get is how especially &lt;code&gt;LEFT_PROBE_BED_POSITION&lt;/code&gt; works. Cause when I set it to &lt;code&gt;11&lt;/code&gt; here (I want it to measure 5 steps from the home) it measures almost in the middle not at the left edge. It seems that I need to subtract from where the printer homes (X99 Y45) which is why I choose X-89 but then it seems that the printer assumes a totally wrong size of the bed and ties to print off the bed...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here where it measures:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;16:02:44.774 : Bed x: -89.00 y: 10.00 z: 1.28&#xA;16:02:59.326 : Bed x: 90.00 y: 10.00 z: 1.23&#xA;16:03:13.466 : Bed x: 90.00 y: 145.00 z: 1.28&#xA;16:03:27.959 : Bed x: -89.00 y: 145.00 z: 1.30&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Measures exactly where I want it to but the values make no sense. The first probe is actually about X10 Y10 but the display shows X-95 Y-50 while the above values are from the slicer log. That makes absolutely no sense to me!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope anyone can enlighten me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20382" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-03-16T11:49:50.297" LastActivityDate="2020-03-16T11:49:50.297" Title="Printer places prints off the bed after change in bed Z-probe area settings" Tags="|marlin|prusa-i3|bed-leveling|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="6" ClosedDate="2020-03-16T22:01:19.953" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12187" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-03-15T16:16:19.310" Score="0" ViewCount="32" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can someone help me troubleshoot? Seems like it's sticking to the bed, but not well, as lines are somewhat wavy or lifting. Is it related to adhesion? Or maybe I need to clean my extruder? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think I'm levelling the bed too close to the extruder.  Maybe it's rubbing or the heat from the extruding is warping it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OC9wo.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OC9wo.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20383" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-03-16T11:55:07.700" LastActivityDate="2020-03-16T11:55:07.700" Title="Help troubleshooting: wavy/lifting lines" Tags="|print-quality|troubleshooting|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2020-03-16T17:33:23.780" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12188" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12193" CreationDate="2020-03-15T18:50:56.100" Score="11" ViewCount="27342" Body="&lt;p&gt;I notice that if I print from Cura without preheating the printer, it will first raise the bed temperature and then raise the extruder temperature. The G-code it generates is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;M140 S55     ; set bed temperature to 55 C&#xA;M105         ; report temperatures&#xA;M190 S55     ; wait for bed temperature to reach 55 C&#xA;M104 S210    ; set hot end temperature to 210 C&#xA;M105         ; report temperatures&#xA;M109 S210    ; wait for hot end temperature to reach 210 C&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &quot;Preheat&quot; feature of Cura presumably send the &quot;set temperature&quot; commands without the corresponding &quot;wait&quot; command.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wouldn't it be more efficient to do something like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;M104 S210    ; set hot end temperature to 210 C&#xA;M140 S55     ; set bed temperature to 55 C&#xA;M105         ; report temperatures&#xA;M109 S210    ; wait for hot end temperature to reach 210 C&#xA;M105         ; report temperatures&#xA;M190 S55     ; wait for bed temperature to reach 55 C&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then the bed and extruder heat up simultaneously, and we wait for the higher temperature one &lt;em&gt;first&lt;/em&gt; assuming that the other will reach its target temperature in the meanwhile.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this is sound, is there a way to set this in Cura, or would I need to submit a patch?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16270" LastActivityDate="2023-04-30T03:50:44.647" Title="Simultaneous heating of extruder and bed at start of print" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|g-code|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12189" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-03-15T19:14:22.707" Score="1" ViewCount="279" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have successfully printed a few models on my Maker Select V2 (Wanhao Duplicator i3) including 3D Benchy, but I'm seeing a consistent problem with a model that I've sliced with Cura.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The extruder starts by doing a little filament wipe at the origin, then moves to the center of the build plate where the part should be printed. During this move, it extrudes a big burst of filament (PLA), several centimeters worth, which completely ruins the print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I debugged the initial G-code that Cura uses, and am able to reproduce the problem with this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;M104 S200 ; heat to 200 C&#xA;M109 S200 ; wait to reach temperature&#xA;&#xA;G21 ; metric values&#xA;G90 ; absolute positioning&#xA;M82 ; set extruder to absolute mode&#xA;&#xA;; move to home&#xA;G28 X0 Y0&#xA;G28 Z0&#xA;&#xA;G1 Z15.0 F120 ; move up 15 mm&#xA;G92 E0 ; zero the extruded length&#xA;&#xA;; problematic!&#xA;G1 F200 E6 ; extrude 6 mm of filament&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What this is doing is moving to the origin position and pushing some filament through the extruder. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16270" LastEditorUserId="16270" LastEditDate="2020-03-20T22:26:51.453" LastActivityDate="2020-04-21T13:02:20.220" Title="Gobs of filament during initial movement of extruder" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|g-code|extrusion|monoprice-maker-select|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12190" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12188" CreationDate="2020-03-15T21:44:31.143" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/Ultimaker/CuraEngine/issues/1010&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;open bug report/feature request&lt;/a&gt; for this. Apparently Cura doesn't do it because some of Ultimaker's printers have underpowered power supplies that will shut off if you try to do both at the same time. I've been carrying a patch (note this is against CuraEngine not the Cura GUI) that fixes this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;diff --git a/src/FffGcodeWriter.cpp b/src/FffGcodeWriter.cpp&#xA;index de3c771c..ced22017 100644&#xA;--- a/src/FffGcodeWriter.cpp&#xA;+++ b/src/FffGcodeWriter.cpp&#xA;@@ -500,7 +500,7 @@ void FffGcodeWriter::processInitialLayerTemperature(const SliceDataStorage&amp;amp; stor&#xA;                 const Temperature bed_temp = scene.current_mesh_group-&amp;gt;settings.get&amp;lt;Temperature&amp;gt;(&quot;material_bed_temperature_layer_0&quot;);&#xA;                 if (bed_temp != 0)&#xA;                 {&#xA;-                    gcode.writeBedTemperatureCommand(bed_temp, scene.current_mesh_group-&amp;gt;settings.get&amp;lt;bool&amp;gt;(&quot;material_bed_temp_wait&quot;));&#xA;+                    gcode.writeBedTemperatureCommand(bed_temp, false);&#xA;                 }&#xA;             }&#xA;         }&#xA;@@ -547,6 +547,18 @@ void FffGcodeWriter::processInitialLayerTemperature(const SliceDataStorage&amp;amp; stor&#xA;                 }&#xA;             }&#xA;         }&#xA;+&#xA;+        if (scene.current_mesh_group-&amp;gt;settings.get&amp;lt;bool&amp;gt;(&quot;material_bed_temp_prepend&quot;))&#xA;+        {&#xA;+            if (scene.current_mesh_group-&amp;gt;settings.get&amp;lt;bool&amp;gt;(&quot;machine_heated_bed&quot;))&#xA;+            {&#xA;+                const Temperature bed_temp = scene.current_mesh_group-&amp;gt;settings.get&amp;lt;Temperature&amp;gt;(&quot;material_bed_temperature_layer_0&quot;);&#xA;+                if (bed_temp != 0)&#xA;+                {&#xA;+                    gcode.writeBedTemperatureCommand(bed_temp, scene.current_mesh_group-&amp;gt;settings.get&amp;lt;bool&amp;gt;(&quot;material_bed_temp_wait&quot;));&#xA;+                }&#xA;+            }&#xA;+        }&#xA;     }&#xA; }&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2020-03-15T21:44:31.143" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12191" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12192" CreationDate="2020-03-16T03:19:53.250" Score="1" ViewCount="1271" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm using a 200x200&amp;nbsp;mm PCB Mk2B which connects to the MOSFET of the D8 pin on a RAMPS 1.4 shield. I used 12&amp;nbsp;V power source for heat bed so I connected positive to pin 1 and negative to both pin 2 &amp;amp; 3 of the bed. Heat bed worked properly. But the wires that connects power source to power supply pin on RAMPS were being heated badly. I think the problem is come from heat bed because when I unplugged heat bed, wires were cool down instantly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can someone helps me with this problem. I'm just a newbie in this area.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20389" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-03-16T07:31:52.230" LastActivityDate="2020-03-16T15:19:17.840" Title="Heat bed wires get hot (12 V connected to RAMPS 1.4 shield)" Tags="|heated-bed|heat-management|power-supply|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12192" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12191" CreationDate="2020-03-16T07:28:07.737" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/wiki/PCB_Heatbed#MK2b_Dual_Power_Technical_Details&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;PCB heatbed Mk2B&lt;/a&gt; has a reported resistance between 1.0-1.2&amp;nbsp;&amp;ohm;. The current that is drawn from the power supply equals about 12/(1.0 or 1.2) = 10-12&amp;nbsp;A. Note that this amount of current requires cables that can carry that load, too thin cables heat up. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that you have wired the bed correctly for 12&amp;nbsp;V (see image below), the wires might have a too-small cross-section, try thicker wires. Personally I use AWG 12-14 silicone wires depending on the bed resistance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QJT2em.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QJT2em.png&quot; alt=&quot;Mk2B heatbed connections&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;AWG 12-14 size silicone, multiple threads (these are the best for the bed because they are more flexible), should be able to handle the load fine. Note that cables also have resistance; if there are heat spots in the cable or the connection, this indicates that the cable may be broken or the connection has too much resistance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-03-16T15:19:17.840" LastActivityDate="2020-03-16T15:19:17.840" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12193" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12188" CreationDate="2020-03-16T09:09:18.557" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;This can be achieved with start G-code adaptations, this requires no software changes. Cura, and most slicers, have the ability to use placeholders (basically variables or maybe better: constants). These placeholders are substituted with the correct value upon slicing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To sequentially heat the bed and hotend you would need to add the following into your start G-code:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&#xA;M117 Heating bed 1st...&#xA;M190 S{material_bed_temperature_layer_0}&#xA;M117 Heating core 2nd...&#xA;M109 S{material_print_temperature_layer_0}&#xA;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For simultaneous heating you need to add:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&#xA;M140 S{material_bed_temperature_layer_0}     ; set bed temperature to e.g. 55 °C and continue&#xA;M104 S{material_print_temperature_layer_0}   ; set hot end temperature to e.g. 210 °C and continue&#xA;M190 S{material_bed_temperature_layer_0}     ; wait for bed temperature to reach e.g. 55 °C&#xA;M109 S{material_print_temperature_layer_0}   ; wait for hot end temperature to reach e.g. 210 °C&#xA;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that Cura is very limited in using placeholders. E.g. Slic3r allows for arithmetic using the placeholders. The following example shows heating the bed first to the bed first layer temperature minus 10 degrees Celsius; then the hotend starts heating and heatbed starts further heating up to the final temperature. For my machine this results in the bed and hotend being at final temperature at the same time; so no time is wasted and printing can start.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&#xA;M117 Heating bed...&#xA;M190 S{[first_layer_bed_temperature]-10}&#xA;M140 S[first_layer_bed_temperature]&#xA;M117 Heating core...&#xA;M109 S[first_layer_temperature_0]&#xA;M190 S[first_layer_bed_temperature]&#xA;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2022-06-25T21:32:03.290" LastActivityDate="2022-06-25T21:32:03.290" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12194" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12191" CreationDate="2020-03-16T13:29:04.767" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Check the diameter of the cable. The smaller the diameter the higher the resistance, thus the heat. AWG14 seem a bit small.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9297" LastActivityDate="2020-03-16T13:29:04.767" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12196" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-03-17T17:22:48.367" Score="1" ViewCount="30" Body="&lt;p&gt;In a material jetting 3D printer (polyjet printer) there are multiple holes arranged in series and multiple such serieses are arranged in rows. (See image below).  These holes jet the material onto the build platform.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;What I want to know is what is the typical distance between two consecutive holes in a series.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gEO4N.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gEO4N.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20073" LastActivityDate="2020-03-17T17:22:48.367" Title="What is the distance between two consecutive material jetting holes in a series in a polyjet printer?" Tags="|polyjet-printer|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12197" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10681" CreationDate="2020-03-17T19:37:42.087" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://knowledge.autodesk.com/support/revit-products/learn-explore/caas/CloudHelp/cloudhelp/2019/ENU/Revit-AddIns/files/GUID-93AE8701-3958-43E9-8D95-0C1650B88061-htm.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;In Revit&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Use STL Exporter 2019 to customize and export your Revit model to an STL file.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Click Add-in tab -&gt; STL Exporter panel -&gt; STL Exporter.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;On the General tab, specify your STL file options.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;On the Categories tab, specify which element categories will export to the STL file.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Click Save to create the STL file.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a4zgLqG68E0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;In Fusion 360&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol start=&quot;5&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Click on a valid project then click the Upload button. Then, click the Select files button and navigate to the STL you wish to import.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JO4WT.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JO4WT.png&quot; alt=&quot;upload button&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;After selecting the STL file you want to convert, click the Upload button, this time the one in the lower-right corner of the file upload window. Then, the STL file you selected will be imported into Fusion 360. The process can take a few minutes.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VTBXk.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VTBXk.png&quot; alt=&quot;browse and open&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17272" LastActivityDate="2020-03-17T19:37:42.087" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12198" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12183" CreationDate="2020-03-17T20:38:58.117" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are several solution you should check in this order : &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;1&quot;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The part is printed too close to bed: measure the first layer with a digital caliper to mach your first layer thikness, usualy 0.35&amp;nbsp;mm like so:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JTtGz.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JTtGz.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;2&quot;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Verify that there is no bevel on the first layer if the part looks like this : &lt;strong&gt;U&lt;/strong&gt; make it look like this  &lt;strong&gt;■&lt;/strong&gt; and see if it changes something.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/T37a5.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/T37a5.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;3&quot;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maybe it is a cooling / temperature problem. the bed should be at max 70&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C for PLA and check the cooling of the noozle. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8eSb1.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8eSb1.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;4&quot;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check for an over extrusion problem! When you ask for 100&amp;nbsp;mm of filament, does it push 500&amp;nbsp;mm through? If so change this soon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UthrH.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UthrH.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3791" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-03-17T21:44:21.737" LastActivityDate="2020-03-17T21:44:21.737" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12199" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12240" CreationDate="2020-03-18T04:48:46.787" Score="3" ViewCount="1168" Body="&lt;p&gt;Recently I changed the FEP bottom of my Anycubic Photon S and I'm having problems with prints now. The bottom layer sticks super well, but none of the supports or the prints do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've tried tensioning the vat, releveling, and changed supports of the structure. Nothing works and I don't know how to proceed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also tried tightening all of the screws on the build plate, but still errors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm using Anycubic black resin, 8 bottom layers at 90 seconds, 7 second exposure with 2 seconds off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The image shows a failed print example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MRkI9.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MRkI9.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20410" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-03-18T06:41:24.543" LastActivityDate="2020-03-24T22:03:04.947" Title="Photon S DLP first layers adhere but support will not" Tags="|sla|dlp|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12200" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8671" CreationDate="2020-03-18T16:02:49.537" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had absolutely the same issue. And after some research I finally found that this is because of wrong pressure advance setting (In case of Marlin - linear advance) in the firmware.&#xA;Without pressure advance (linear advance) will be more plastic at the end of the travel rather than at the start. As result the fast full infill will have uneven distribution of the plastic with more plastic close to the perimeters that usually produce rounded corners. The pressure advance makes it better and redistribute plastic flow more even with the speed however if you make this setting too big for your 3d printer and filament then this will result in what you can see on the picture with less plastic at the end of the travel. Basically too big pressure advance parameter will result in less plastic near the perimeters and especially near corners where change in speed happening.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11199" LastActivityDate="2020-03-18T16:02:49.537" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12201" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-03-18T17:53:53.530" Score="2" ViewCount="5074" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an Ender 3 and I have a problem with auto home. I use auto home and then level the bed with the wheels beneath the bed. I then start a print and the first layer is well above the bed. Perhaps about a millimeter. If I stop the print at this point and level the bed so that the first layer prints the normal paper width above the bed, everything works fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The stops for the 3 axes seem to be in the right places and there is nothing noticeable obstructing them. When I use auto home it does touch the stops at all 3 axes. My belts seem to be tight and there is no movement of the bed if I try to jiggle it with my hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a way to adjust the Z axis so that the auto home elevation and the elevation of first layer of the print will be the same? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is an example of the first lines of G-code:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;;FLAVOR:Marlin &#xA;;TIME:4724 &#xA;;Filament used: 1.70716m &#xA;;Layer height: 0.16 &#xA;;MINX:96.551 &#xA;;MINY:96.545 &#xA;;MINZ:0.2 &#xA;;MAXX:138.448 &#xA;;MAXY:138.455 &#xA;;MAXZ:100.4 &#xA;;Generated with Cura_SteamEngine 4.5.0 &#xA;M140 S50 &#xA;M105 &#xA;M190 S50 &#xA;M104 S200 &#xA;M105 &#xA;M109 S200 &#xA;M82 ;absolute extrusion mode &#xA;; Ender 3 Custom Start G-code &#xA;G92 E0 ; Reset Extruder &#xA;G28 ; Home all axes &#xA;G1 Z2.0 F3000 ; Move Z Axis up little to prevent scratching of Heat Bed &#xA;G1 X0.1 Y20 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move to start position &#xA;G1 X0.1 Y200.0 Z0.3 F1500.0 E15 ; Draw the first line &#xA;G1 X0.4 Y200.0 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move to side a little&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20418" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-01-13T08:22:46.100" LastActivityDate="2021-11-11T11:22:52.820" Title="Ender 3 home location" Tags="|creality-ender-3|calibration|z-axis|homing|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12202" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-03-18T19:11:49.333" Score="3" ViewCount="344" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to enable a lot of features on my custom build of Marlin, and I'm having trouble fitting into a reasonable space limit. I'm compiling through the standard Arduino IDE with Sanguino board set, and I'm barely not fitting -- when I click compile, I get an error informing me my code won't fit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My understanding is, the IDE is set to assume I'll be uploading through a bootloader, and therefore reserves some space for it. If I'm not planning to use the bootloader, how can I inform the IDE that my program can use more space? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20420" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-03-18T22:04:52.807" LastActivityDate="2020-10-05T18:23:39.527" Title="How to compile Marlin for Melzi board without bootloader?" Tags="|marlin|firmware|melzi|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12203" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12201" CreationDate="2020-03-19T00:39:41.833" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Z stop can be loosened and moved up but it seems weird that it would need to be moved and I don't think that would fix your issue. The Z height should be the same for the auto home and printing. I auto home then disable steppers and slowly move to all 4 corners. I have caught myself resting my arm on the X axis and moving it down. If that happens I manually move the Z until it just barely presses the Z stop in when I hear the button click. I have heard some say that they got a warped bed. I wonder if that's the issue. A glass plate would be a good way to be sure or maybe using a straight edge to check.You could also double check the tightness on the wheels is just right. Tomb of 3D Printed Horrors has a really good setup video called &quot;Creality Ender 3 assembly and pro build tips&quot; that has a few other tips that really helped me get set up well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20423" LastActivityDate="2020-03-19T00:39:41.833" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12204" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12214" CreationDate="2020-03-19T11:16:06.490" Score="2" ViewCount="2857" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got a peculiar issue today, and was looking for some help with it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of the six Ender 3s I manage at my college, one of them seems to be &lt;strong&gt;stretching the Y axis&lt;/strong&gt; of all the prints I make with it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some points about the issue:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It's variable, but is much more pronounced in larger prints:&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A raspberry pi frame-mounted case I printed came out too long along the Y-Axis by over 2&amp;nbsp;mm.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;To troubleshoot, I printed a calibration cube but the Y-axis was only 0.5&amp;nbsp;mm longer.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It seems to affect only part of some prints; a bit over half of the pi case was stretched, but a section at the top appeared normal (screw holes were perfect circles, but towards the other end they were ellipse-shaped).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I tried tensioning the Y-belt, and while I noticed it was loose before tightening it, this didn't make a noticeable improvement.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It doesn't occur in any of the other five Ender 3s, all of which are equal in modifications.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A re-flash of the Marlin firmware didn't fix the issue. It's a preconfigured Marlin version that I pulled off github based on a recommendation. I flashed this version to try and solve the problem, the previous version was installed by the printers' previous caretaker but the new version didn't help (makes me think we might have both grabbed the same version). &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It means that I can no longer print any components that require high tolerances, as they simply won't fit together.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The most recent print was a 40&amp;nbsp;mm fan shroud for a &quot;hero me&quot; setup (which I'm working on installing on all six printers).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I ran two of them, one on the printer with the issue and one on a perfectly functional printer.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;They were run this morning, in identical conditions and started at the same time.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There are no other structural defects aside from the stretching, it simply looks like a normal, print but as if someone used the photoshop transform tool and pulled it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a side by side of the two finished prints, comparing them along both the X and Y axes. As you can see, the X axis is perfect on the problem print, but the Y is consistently stretched (visible in the shape of the round cone and the screwholes).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/75J8V.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/75J8V.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This issue has been consistent and I'm honestly stumped, any help is appreciated! If anyone needs me to obtain more documentation or test something, I'll be back in with the printers in the morning (roughly when this post is 10 hours old) and I'm happy to get any documentation needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20427" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-03-20T08:30:26.740" LastActivityDate="2020-03-20T08:34:32.547" Title="Ender 3 Y-Axis Stretched (I don't believe it's layer shifting)" Tags="|creality-ender-3|troubleshooting|y-axis|dimensional-accuracy|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12206" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-03-19T14:20:28.220" Score="1" ViewCount="113" Body="&lt;p&gt;Have people been using 3D printing to genuinely create a number of needed objects in their homes, and if so, what? Or is 3D printing better for special niche interests like art projects, home engineering projects, etc?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20429" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-03-20T06:06:46.797" LastActivityDate="2020-03-20T16:32:25.093" Title="Is 3D printing useful for making everyday objects or is it more for special hobbies?" Tags="|3d-design|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12207" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12206" CreationDate="2020-03-19T14:47:04.867" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Both.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3D printing is especially useful for creating replacement parts for things for which it would otherwise be difficult, expensive, or impossible to obtain a conventionally manufactured one. You may have seen in the news recently the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.bbc.com/news/technology-51911070&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;story about 3D printing being used to replace hospital ventilator valves&lt;/a&gt; that were not available in time to save patients who needed them, and that normally cost \$11000 from the manufacturer. But the same kind of thing applies to regular household items too. For example, I've replaced broken wheels on my child's toy cars, a broken windshield washer fluid coupling in my car, and various similar things. I'm also planning to replace broken plastic wheel bearings in my vacuum cleaner (the manufacturer's design was atrociously bad and I'll probably adapt it to use real bearings with a 3D printed adapter), a window switch in my car, and lots of other things I can't remember at the moment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course you can do craft and hobby things too. I don't think this really calls for examples/evidence.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastEditorUserId="11157" LastEditDate="2020-03-19T14:54:54.877" LastActivityDate="2020-03-19T14:54:54.877" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12208" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12206" CreationDate="2020-03-19T15:20:53.647" Score="4" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Have people been using 3D printing to genuinely create a number of needed objects in their homes, and if so, what?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, but in a very limited sense. If there is widespread demand for an item, then it will always be available from stores. This is basics economics: if there is enough demand for something, somebody will step in and provide the supply. The store-bought alternative will almost always be of better quality and relatively cheap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3D printing can be useful to create a niche part that is needed but not readily available, such as replacement parts for appliances long out of production. This unfortunately takes a lot of time since you need to make a 3D model of the part yourself, which also requires considerable skill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some examples of items that I made for my home:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Custom brackets to hang blinds when the store-provided ones did not fit my window.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;A special mounting bracket to more easily hang a ceiling light panel.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Replacement wheel for a vacuum cleaner.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Cover plate for a deprecated telecom socket.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Fix for a broken clothes drying rack.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3D printing can also be used to create &quot;trinkets&quot; such as custom vases or similar objects.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would say 3D printing is a bit like woodworking as a hobby: it is a skill that can be used to make genuinely useful items, but going to IKEA is a perfectly viable alternative.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Or is 3D printing better for special niche interests like art projects, home engineering projects, etc?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is ideal for this. I do not know of anybody who has a 3D printer specifically for home use. However, there are many hobbyists that use 3D printing for another primary purpose that occasionally find their 3D printers useful around the house.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-03-20T06:08:14.740" LastActivityDate="2020-03-20T06:08:14.740" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12209" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12206" CreationDate="2020-03-19T17:09:00.527" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;3D printing is a &lt;strong&gt;tool&lt;/strong&gt;. A really versatile one. I have myself used it in various applications:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Spare parts.&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have broken a couple of appliances in the past and then made spare parts with my printers, skipping on delivery and full replacements. The hanger in the wardrobe got a replacement disk, the vacuum with the broken hinge got the break briged and a couple of other items have gotten simple but effective custom spare parts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Education&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Be it taking the Colosseum into the class or a miniature of a Roman Castra, a Danish longhouse, it is different to have a picture of something or allowing to turn the item around and look at different angles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And there are ways to teach physics or geography with it too! For example, a simple sextant can be printed and then used to determine the longitude of your school, or you print the fixings of a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2804504&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Blackburn Pendulum&lt;/a&gt; or a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3991322&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;harmonograph&lt;/a&gt; and ask your students what influences the patterns of the complex shapes that appear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In languages, the use larger (~30 mm) dice with the forms (for example in Latin: ego, tu, is/ea/id, nos, vos, ei/eae/ea) or tenses generates questions for the students in training and self-study.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And then there is the use to make custom boxes to transport all the learning aids.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Cosplay &amp;amp; LARP&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have printed decoration and art pieces for Cosplayers and LARPers that would take a lot of handiwork to make otherwise. Be it helmets, masks or shoulder armor, 3D printing allows manufacturing complex items for such.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Engineering &amp;amp; Tools&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have not used it &lt;em&gt;myself&lt;/em&gt; a lot, but on the 2016 SMM, I had talked with a fluid dynamics laboratory that used (miniature) FDM prints of static propellers to test an evaluate designs in water basins.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Similarily, on the 2018 didacta, I had seen projects by several universities to combine engineering with education and getting basic training in engineering into schools as extracurricular activities.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are numerous tools for &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0olWXL7yMCE&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;spacing&lt;/a&gt; and such that you can easily make or adjust to your needs. A friend of mine works in wood professionally, and they printed themselves drill-jigs for parts they repeatedly use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Art &amp;amp; Decoration&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here 3D printing can shine, and I have made pure decorative objects too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:29:41.667" LastActivityDate="2020-03-20T16:32:25.093" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12210" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7388" CreationDate="2020-03-19T18:29:37.833" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;This was killing me on mine. My problem wasn't the z-axis, it was the x-axis arm. On the right side, opposite the extruder gear, it had a lot of give (wobble). I could level my bed four times before starting a print and would still have problems, especially with the nozzle making deep grooves in the magnetic bed. The way it messed up was inconsistent as well, making it hard to troubleshoot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I changed out the bedsprings, got a glass bed instead, changed out the extruder gear and Bowden tube; I was ready to give up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How to fix the wobble, if that's your problem, if there's a lot of give / vertical movement on the right side of the arm:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You have to take the whole arm off. First, take the top bar off, remove the four screws. Second, disable steppers so you can take the x-axis off completely. I removed the cables once I had taken it off. Third, there's a plate with two holes to get to two screws - make sure these are tight! This is where the wobble was coming from. Four, reassemble and double-check. For me, the give was reduced drastically.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A video tutorial for help. There are English subtitles.&#xA;&lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/ncUHPScBcI4?start=0&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20430" LastActivityDate="2020-03-19T18:29:37.833" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12211" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12165" CreationDate="2020-03-19T23:37:59.837" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is doubtful that small PTFE inside hotend could produce that kind of dangerous gas leak.&#xA;But another thing should be considered: the PTFE tube inside hotend WILL degrade over time and will need replacement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For last several years I had numerous experiments with all kind of solutions including my own designs made. And recently I found the best and all metal solution: Volcano 20mm heater + M6 stainless throat + normal SHORT E3D nozzle (not the Volcano nozzle but the normal one). Basically this solution put the problematic gap (merge of nozzle with throat) deep into hotter zone, you just need longer throat. So far I have best quality and speed with this approach.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The most important thing for the all metal hotend is to have fast retracts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the FAN I recommend to use double deck, that is to put one fan on top of another and connect them in parallel.&#xA;I found this solution in some server power supplies.&#xA;And indeed two fans produce really good flow to cool heatsink at higher temperatures (before I was considering water cooling but two fans much cheaper and do the job very good). Also the probability that two fans will fail is very low.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11199" LastActivityDate="2020-03-19T23:37:59.837" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12212" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12204" CreationDate="2020-03-20T00:04:34.583" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is likely you have PU belt and it is likely it stretched in some area. I had all my PU belts finally stretched with big tension and high speed printing.&#xA;Now I am using reinforced rubber belts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11199" LastActivityDate="2020-03-20T00:04:34.583" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12213" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12215" CreationDate="2020-03-20T00:42:32.287" Score="2" ViewCount="152" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have had my Ender 3 for a few months now and have loved it! I recently noticed that the build plate, the black removable part of the print bed, is sticking up in the middle. If I poke it, it goes back into place, but will not stay there. It shows especially when I print my leveling squares and find the the corners are near-perfect, but the center is crazy thin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am using a stock Ender 3 with Cura 4.5.0.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For those who may find this to be helpful, I am looking to find a good replacement build plate. In the meantime, I managed to get mine (without the sticky back) to lay flat by increasing the temperature of the bed from 50 Celsius to 60.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20433" LastEditorUserId="20433" LastEditDate="2020-03-20T21:19:50.843" LastActivityDate="2020-03-20T21:19:50.843" Title="Ender 3 build surface is sticking up in the middle" Tags="|creality-ender-3|build-surface|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12214" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12204" CreationDate="2020-03-20T07:45:54.867" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If an axis doesn't print the sizes you command it there are basically 2 options causing this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The printer is incorrectly configured,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The printer has an hardware issue.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To find out which of the 2 is applicable, you need to look into your setup and into the firmware settings. E.g. from the printers display you can read the amount of steps the stepper needs to make to move the axis 1&amp;nbsp;mm. Alternatively, send &lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#M92:_Set_axis_steps_per_unit&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;code&gt;M92&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/a&gt; through a &lt;a href=&quot;/q/10573&quot;&gt;terminal&lt;/a&gt; and look at the steps per mm. If X and Y are the same, the firmware is correctly configured and you are facing a hardware issue. Note that for the stock Ender 3 the value for X and Y needs to be 80&amp;nbsp;steps/mm. &lt;strong&gt;Do not alter these values!!!&lt;/strong&gt; These values are based on the mechanical layout and the micro-stepping used by the stepper drivers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since you have flashed a stock hex firmware file it is highly improbable that the firmware contains the incorrect steps per mm value for the Y axis (unless you accidentally changed this through the interface/display). This leaves you with a hardware issue. Common reasons that could identify the source of the problem are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Loose grub screw of the pulley on the stepper,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Missing steps, e.g. due to too much friction (if dimensions are smaller, in your case this is not the problem, it is added for completeness),&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Loose, under tensioned belts,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Stretched belts as a result of over tensioning the belts.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Considering the stretched Y dimensions, the most logical explanation would be that your belts are stretched, you cannot fix this by changing the steps/mm value, it requires mechanical attention; i.e. replacing for new belts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-03-20T08:34:32.547" LastActivityDate="2020-03-20T08:34:32.547" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12215" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12213" CreationDate="2020-03-20T13:51:32.467" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;So your (clone) BuildTak bed surface is not sticking to the bed anymore, time to &lt;a href=&quot;/q/7960&quot;&gt;remove the surface and clean the heatbed&lt;/a&gt; and apply a new one. These build surfaces (usually) have a sticky 3M sticker to stick it to the bed (or the surface bottom is covered with a sticky surface). When this sticking layer fails of subsequent heating cycles you need to replace the build surface. The higher the temperature the more the build surface expands the higher the surface gets when it doesn't stick in certain places. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that the build surface is a consumable, it needs to be replaced once in a while.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2020-03-20T13:51:32.467" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12217" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12189" CreationDate="2020-03-20T23:14:36.893" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The G-code you posted indeed extrudes a blob of filament at the origin (6&amp;nbsp;mm). During this extrusion pressure is build up in the nozzle/heatbreak, if you command a move after this prime blob, the nozzle will leak filament releasing the leftover back pressure, it is normal to include a retraction before moving to the start of the print, e.g.:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;; problematic!&#xA;G1 F200 E6 ; extrude 6 mm of filament    &#xA;G92 E0&#xA;G1 F1500 E-1&#xA;... ; End of start G-code, move to skirt/brim etc.&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An example Cura start G-code could look like:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&#xA;G21 ;metric values&#xA;G90 ;absolute positioning&#xA;M82 ;set extruder to absolute mode&#xA;&#xA;G28 ; Auto Home All AXIS&#xA;&#xA;M117 Heating bed 1st...&#xA;M190 S{material_bed_temperature_layer_0}&#xA;M117 Heating core 1st...&#xA;M109 S{material_print_temperature_layer_0}&#xA;&#xA;M117 Priming...&#xA;G1 X0 Y0 F2500&#xA;G1 Z2&#xA;G92 E0&#xA;G1 E15 F250&#xA;G1 Z4.0 F500&#xA;G92 E0&#xA;M117 Wiping...&#xA;G1 Y5 Z4.0 F500&#xA;G1 Y10 Z0.2&#xA;G1 Y15 Z0.2 F500&#xA;G92 E0&#xA;G1 F200&#xA;G1 E-3&#xA;&#xA;M117 Printing...&#xA;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-03-22T12:15:55.043" LastActivityDate="2020-03-22T12:15:55.043" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12219" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-03-21T14:22:44.200" Score="0" ViewCount="938" Body="&lt;p&gt;About 1.5 months ago I changed the springs of my printing bed and since then I have had the same problem again and again. Strangely enough, it only happens sometimes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have already realigned the printing bed several times, cleaned it etc. Maybe one of you can tell me what my problem is based on these pictures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have also already tried out various underlays.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://dev.jonas-heinze.de/stackoverflowender1.JPG&quot; alt=&quot;Image 1&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://dev.jonas-heinze.de/stackoverflowender2.JPG&quot; alt=&quot;Image 2&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://dev.jonas-heinze.de/stackoverflowender3.JPG&quot; alt=&quot;Image 3&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I print with an Ender 3 , PLA, quality: 0.2&amp;nbsp;mm, speed: 25&amp;nbsp;mm/s, initial fan speed: 0&amp;nbsp;%.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure if it helps but on the pictures I tried to print: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3495390&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3495390&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20441" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-03-21T14:42:46.447" LastActivityDate="2020-03-21T15:02:24.750" Title="Bad print quality on Creality Ender 3" Tags="|print-quality|bed-leveling|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12220" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12219" CreationDate="2020-03-21T15:02:24.750" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;From the images you can see that the filament is not squished to the bed, e.g. the extruded skirt looks as if a round rod lies on the bed. The bottom picture shows that the skirt is even dragged (top left); this indicates that the initial bed to nozzle distance is too large. Please decrease the distance or look into your slicer if there is a height offset active.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2020-03-21T15:02:24.750" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12223" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-03-22T04:37:27.913" Score="0" ViewCount="186" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm having an odd effect in my prints. There is some sort of surface problem that seems to be evenly spaced in z. I tried to tighten my belts, the print speed is 75 mm/s using a 32 bit board, on an Ender 3 Pro.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any recommendations?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xXC2K.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xXC2K.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19739" LastActivityDate="2020-03-22T14:01:20.903" Title="Equally spaced surface flaws" Tags="|creality-ender-3|surface|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12224" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-03-22T06:35:34.153" Score="0" ViewCount="1412" Body="&lt;p&gt;My 3D printer is only printing half of the object I want to print. I have a WANHAO i3 Mini and i use Cura, I've added some images below that shows the problem:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aouTw.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aouTw.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;I entered this values as Settings:&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/df8xy.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/df8xy.png&quot; alt=&quot;I entered this values as Settings&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Final Object:&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Q3T4a.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Q3T4a.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Final Object&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8778" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-03-22T07:48:56.697" LastActivityDate="2020-03-22T07:48:56.697" Title="3D Printer only printing half of an object" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12225" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12223" CreationDate="2020-03-22T08:09:32.303" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The surface defects you describe is caused by Z-wobble. Basically this leads back in a defect in the Z axis gantry where X and/or Y movements are transferred into the print head. This can be cause by:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a damaged nut, &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;lead screw not straight, &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;stick-slip, &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;binding, &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;lead screw out of alignment with the coupler, &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;lead screw touching the stepper shaft in the coupler, &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the Z guide (at the other side of the X-axis arm; the one without the extruder mounted on it) has too much friction of the wheels on the profile,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;play on the carriage, &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;lead screw should be the same distance from the extrusion profile from top to bottom, &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;etc.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-03-22T14:01:20.903" LastActivityDate="2020-03-22T14:01:20.903" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12226" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13808" CreationDate="2020-03-22T12:51:32.983" Score="4" ViewCount="708" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WwWuN.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WwWuN.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;3D printing problem stringing&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So these past few days I have been 3D printing again with my Ender 3 with PETG and 0.4&amp;nbsp;mm nozzle and while I have been using the same setting as usual I am seeing an unusual amount of stringing between the prints. Does anyone know why? If you're wondering regarding the settings here they are, I'm using Cura for slicing, see options:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ialqzm.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ialqzm.png&quot; alt=&quot;Quality&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Tc2Blm.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Tc2Blm.png&quot; alt=&quot;Shell&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt; &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3SpNZm.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3SpNZm.png&quot; alt=&quot;Temperature&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6H1M6m.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6H1M6m.png&quot; alt=&quot;Retraction&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0KMAQm.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0KMAQm.png&quot; alt=&quot;Speed&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xWib6m.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xWib6m.png&quot; alt=&quot;Cooling&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20341" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-03-22T14:04:11.847" LastActivityDate="2020-06-04T15:29:29.147" Title="Prints coming out very stringy" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|creality-ender-3|nozzle|heat-management|retraction|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12228" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11726" CreationDate="2020-03-23T00:02:03.953" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The owners manual tells how to micro adjust the z while it is printing the 1st layer.  See page 23.  I did this and it works perfectly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14656" LastActivityDate="2020-03-23T00:02:03.953" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12229" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-03-23T03:59:02.357" Score="1" ViewCount="161" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am working on a project that requires an enclosure that I am thinking to prototype using a 3D printer (which is pretty easy and overall awesome).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is simply whether this same model can be used later on for mass production (i.e. mold injection)? What adjustment (if any) need to be done to model between prototype and mass.prod. stages? What areas in design to look out for that can make model viable for 3D printing non-viable for mass production?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20265" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-03-23T08:05:14.283" LastActivityDate="2020-03-26T05:56:40.143" Title="Can model used for 3D printing be later used for mold mass production?" Tags="|3d-models|3d-design|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12230" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12229" CreationDate="2020-03-23T12:20:52.550" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;That's a hard No.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Models used in industrial injection molding are very specific to the process sometimes even the machine. When they build those molds they have to include constructs like spurs and runners; things to get the molten plastic to where it needs to go. Further the wall thickness of an injection molded part can only be so thick, because the plastic will contract when cooled, which will distort the final part if it is too thick.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12857" LastActivityDate="2020-03-23T12:20:52.550" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12231" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5170" CreationDate="2020-03-23T18:31:00.213" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Had a similar issue with one of the stepper motors on a Flashforge Creator Pro.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just finished a print as the head was returning to the home position and sounded like it was jammed up, inspected in jog mode and it would move left but not right then neither direction, disconnected, check for free movement and all was good found this thread and was thinking it might be a bad motor but turned out to be just a bad wire going to the motor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20465" LastEditorUserId="20465" LastEditDate="2020-03-23T18:41:18.253" LastActivityDate="2020-03-23T18:41:18.253" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12232" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-03-23T21:27:24.137" Score="1" ViewCount="32" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have read quite a few articles discussing various issues with 3D printed metal parts, a few are listed below. (Ref 1 thru 4)  However, I was not able to find any sources of information quantitatively comparing 3D printed metal parts to similar parts created by investment casting.  I'm interested in any quantitative comparison to metal parts made by powder bed fusion, direct energy deposition, or binder jet printing.  I'm specifically interested in strength, stiffness, and porosity for 3D printing versus casting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ref 1 -&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.llnl.gov/news/llnl-finds-reason-behind-defects-3d-printing&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.llnl.gov/news/llnl-finds-reason-behind-defects-3d-printing&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ref 2 -&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://amfg.ai/2018/05/01/5-problems-faced-when-3d-printing-metals-and-how-to-fix-them/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://amfg.ai/2018/05/01/5-problems-faced-when-3d-printing-metals-and-how-to-fix-them/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ref 3 -&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://all3dp.com/4/researchers-detect-defects-metal-3d-printed-parts-using-neural-networks/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://all3dp.com/4/researchers-detect-defects-metal-3d-printed-parts-using-neural-networks/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ref 4 - &lt;a href=&quot;https://insights.globalspec.com/article/7458/how-strong-are-3d-printed-metal-parts-metallurgical-integrity-in-metal-additive-manufacturing&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://insights.globalspec.com/article/7458/how-strong-are-3d-printed-metal-parts-metallurgical-integrity-in-metal-additive-manufacturing&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7166" LastActivityDate="2020-03-23T21:27:24.137" Title="How do the Mechanical Properties of 3D Printed Metal Parts Compare to Parts Made by Investment Casting?" Tags="|print-quality|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12233" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-03-23T22:09:25.777" Score="2" ViewCount="2351" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am very new to 3D printing and I am trying to adjust my firmware. I use the Arduino IDE 1.8.12.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I downloaded the firmware from GitHub that suits my printer, but every time that I try to open the &lt;code&gt;marlin.ino&lt;/code&gt; file within, it opens in the Arduino with only the blue &quot;marlin&quot; tab. It doesn't load the other tabs such as &lt;code&gt;Configuration.h&lt;/code&gt; and &lt;code&gt;Configuration_adv.h&lt;/code&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have watched a few YouTube videos, and in all of them, these tabs seem to open automatically.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you very much for any help, I've been struggling to figure this out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20467" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2020-03-24T15:42:50.173" LastActivityDate="2020-03-24T15:42:50.173" Title="How do I access Configuration.h?" Tags="|marlin|arduino-mega-2650|tevo-tarantula|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12234" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-03-23T22:32:53.097" Score="2" ViewCount="143" Body="&lt;p&gt;Recently I opened up my printer (PowerSpec Duplicator i3 Mini V2)to clean the nozzle (it comes with the little tool to get tiny bits of filament out of the nozzle). Well, I was using that and when I pulled it out I discovered the tool broke inside the nozzle. Filament is still coming out but obviously not properly. Can someone please help me fix this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20468" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-03-23T23:06:10.717" LastActivityDate="2020-03-24T16:11:26.563" Title="Nozzle cleaning tool broken inside nozzle" Tags="|nozzle|cleaning|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12235" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12252" CreationDate="2020-03-24T10:55:20.307" Score="1" ViewCount="1644" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to make an order with this configuration&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Arduino MEGA 2650 R3&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ramps 1.6 Plus&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2 TMC2130 &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2 Stepper motors 17hs3401&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 Fan&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Nl0sE.png&quot; alt=&quot;stepper_motor&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I am not sure what voltage and current would be enough to make it work. The Ramps 1.6+ board has an input of 12V as you can see in the picture, but I have read that &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/9911/tmc2130-external-vm-ramps1-4&quot;&gt;other people&lt;/a&gt; had to increase the voltage with a DC-DC converter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RtBEr.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;ramps_voltage&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, would be 12V and 15A enough to make work that configuration?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20470" LastActivityDate="2020-04-23T08:35:46.957" Title="Is 12V and 15A enough to make work a Ramps 1.6 Plus and two stepper motors?" Tags="|stepper|arduino-mega-2650|power-supply|ramps-1.6|tmc2130|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12236" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13359" CreationDate="2020-03-24T11:36:54.923" Score="2" ViewCount="1198" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to buy the board &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.hta3d.com/en/ramps-1-6-plus-compatible-with-spi-compatible-with-tmc2130&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Ramps 1.6 Plus&lt;/a&gt;. The description in the link says that is compatible with the driver TMC2130, but I found that there are two versions soldered in SPI mode. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.hta3d.com/en/tmc2130-welded-for-spi-stepper-motor-controller-silent-driver&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;BIGTREETECH TMC2130 V3.0&lt;/a&gt;. Where the diagnosis pins are soldered as well&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.hta3d.com/en/tmc2130-sb-spi-version-stepper-motor-driver-carrier-low-noise-driver&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;TMC2130 V?&lt;/a&gt;. In this other product those pins are not soldered and I believe it will fit in the board&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Rbd6a.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;comparison&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you can see in the image other boards like the SKR 1.3 have some socket to plug in the diagnosis pins. But I don't see something similar in the Ramps 1.6, which has male pins instead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Should I remove those pins in order to plug the driver? Or is there a better way to proceed?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I don't really know what the diagnosis pins do, are they really necessary? Should I buy the second option without those pins soldered to avoid problems?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20470" LastEditorUserId="4922" LastEditDate="2021-04-21T13:23:58.137" LastActivityDate="2021-04-21T13:23:58.137" Title="Will the TMC2130 V3.0 stepper driver work with the Ramps 1.6 Plus board?" Tags="|stepper-driver|skr-v1.3|bigtreetech|ramps-1.6|tmc2130|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12237" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11564" CreationDate="2020-03-24T12:23:49.523" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's because the nozzle has nowhere to wipe itself, like when you don't use Z hop the nozzle wipes itself off in the inside of the print. When you have Z hop enabled the nozzle has nowhere to wipe the string off, which leaves a string when it goes over to the next print. This happens to me all the time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20472" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-02-04T02:09:29.607" LastActivityDate="2021-02-04T02:09:29.607" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12238" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12234" CreationDate="2020-03-24T16:11:26.563" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your best fix is to get a replacement nozzle. Nozzles are relatively cheap. Having and replacing them on a regular basis is a good thing. Replacement can help you maintain proper printing. You can probably get the cleaning tool out of the old nozzle, but most likely you'll damage it further, making it nearly useless. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11242" LastActivityDate="2020-03-24T16:11:26.563" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12239" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-03-24T21:46:41.407" Score="0" ViewCount="63" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have just installed a Duet3D Wifi 2 on an Ender 3 Pro. I sliced my first print using Cura and uploaded it via the web interface. It prints fine, except that it pauses for 10 seconds several times per layer. This occurs at the same points on each layer. Here is a video I recorded to show the idea: &lt;a href=&quot;https://vimeo.com/400385336&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://vimeo.com/400385336&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have used the Ender 3 profile in Cura 4.4.0, only changing the G-code flavor to RepRap. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have not been able to identify what is going on, any ideas?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20059" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2020-03-27T08:52:12.047" LastActivityDate="2020-03-27T08:52:12.047" Title="How to fix a Duet3D board on an Ender 3 frame pausing mid-print" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|diy-3d-printer|reprap|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12240" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12199" CreationDate="2020-03-24T22:03:04.947" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I finally reached out to anycubic and their tech support answered and was awesome!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They had me update the firmware, tighten the fep film more ( instead of using the small lever I used the big lever this time), then level the bed again. I printed their test print and it worked!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After that I looked at their parameters and I saw that mine were very different. The main differences was in the lift distance, speed and retract speed. I only had 1 mm lift distance and much slower.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are the correct ones in the end&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vwnby.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vwnby.png&quot; alt=&quot;true parameters&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20410" LastActivityDate="2020-03-24T22:03:04.947" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12241" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-03-25T02:45:11.480" Score="1" ViewCount="911" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just took delivery of a massive Anycubic Chiron to my house and have been trying to get it printing successfully for supplies for fellow clinic staff. For some reason, it is only printing a portion of the test shape that Cura is putting out. I am using 1.75&amp;nbsp;mm ABS Filament, with an enclosure and proper adhesion. Attached is the preview image from Cura. The next pic shows what the printer is actually laying down, some sort of rectangular crop of the test cube and skirt. I just stop the print when I see it repeat the issue. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aJLnm.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aJLnm.png&quot; alt=&quot;Cura Preview&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/W4876.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/W4876.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Printer Output&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8P1iC.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8P1iC.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Printer&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Print settings:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Layer Height 0.2&amp;nbsp;mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Initial Layer LW 110&amp;nbsp;%&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Infill 20&amp;nbsp;% Gyroid&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Print Temp 240&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Build Plate Temp 106&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Flow 92&amp;nbsp;% (thought there was an overextrusion issue)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Speed&amp;nbsp;50 mm/s&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Travel 80&amp;nbsp;mm/s&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Initial Layer 15&amp;nbsp;mm/s&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Z Hop 12&amp;nbsp;mm/s&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Z Hop Height 0.15&amp;nbsp;mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Retraction Dist 2&amp;nbsp;mm/s&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Retraction Speed 15&amp;nbsp;mm/s&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cooling Off&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Min Layer Time 10&amp;nbsp;s&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Skirt, 3 lines, 10&amp;nbsp;mm distance, minimum length 250&amp;nbsp;mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Retraction Minimum 1.5&amp;nbsp;mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20480" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-03-25T08:07:46.740" LastActivityDate="2020-03-25T14:41:48.830" Title="3D Printer does not print whole object" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|abs|anycubic-chiron|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12242" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8193" CreationDate="2020-03-25T04:35:29.617" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is a different, much simpler possible answer, that I see posted nowhere, and after changing many many things on my setup I have finally figured out....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Clean the built-up dust off your heatsink and fan.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Undo the 2 screws and clean the dust off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20481" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-03-25T08:48:52.643" LastActivityDate="2020-03-25T08:48:52.643" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12243" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12241" CreationDate="2020-03-25T14:41:48.830" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It looks like either the mechanical travel is constrained or, possibly you have the origin of the X-Y plane in the wrong place in Cura.  Usually Cura won't even slice if it thinks the object extends past the printable area, so check the display in Cura &quot;Layer View.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If that's OK, then try using the control panel on your printer to manually drive the print head all the way in both X and Y axes.  If it doesn't then the commenters are correct thatyou have a mechanical interference somewhere.   If it does, then somewhere between Cura and your printer the &quot;soft limit&quot; of maximum excursion is set wrong. I'm not familiar with your printer model, but there should be a control panel command to &quot;zero all axes,&quot; and typically the origin is the front left corner of the build plate (facing the printer, so &quot;Stage Right&quot; in theatre coordinates)  . &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2191" LastActivityDate="2020-03-25T14:41:48.830" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12244" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-03-25T20:24:26.787" Score="1" ViewCount="141" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a problem with my prints having a small separation gap between layers when I have a corner and the Z layer ends or starts for a partial distance. The gap reminds me of a gap between a print and its raft. Usually 1 layer just seems to be missing in places. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've been printing about a year now and I've tried different temps, line width, layer thicknesses. The problem has even been a problem after installing new firmware. I use Cura V4.5.0 and an Ender 3 printer. The problem is rather difficult to describe so I've attached an image demonstrating the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BMqiW.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BMqiW.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20418" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-03-26T06:26:54.050" LastActivityDate="2020-08-23T07:04:45.550" Title="Layer Separation Where A Previous Layer Ends" Tags="|print-quality|ultimaker-cura|creality-ender-3|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12247" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12244" CreationDate="2020-03-26T00:27:59.297" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Almost certainly the material that was supposed to be deposited there was lost (oozed out) somewhere else during travel moves due to no retraction, insufficient retraction, or retraction being skipped due to combing. Make sure retraction is on, at least 6 mm, and try disabling combing or setting the max combing distance very low, around 2 mm or less.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your new firmware is Marlin 2.0, you can try enabling linear advance too. If tuned correctly, it will largely correct for this along with improving lots of other things.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2020-03-26T00:27:59.297" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12248" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10897" CreationDate="2020-03-26T01:20:01.470" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have written compilers and optimizers, as well as optimizers which work on raster operations.  I so want to offer you a beautiful solution, but I don't know of one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I really wanted to solve this, I would start with this approach:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, identify each token and expression in the OpenSCAD code.  Assign each a unique identifier, and reserve one bit of storage, initially zeroed, that will be used later.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the geometric database level, tag each geometric element with the identifier in the source code that generates it.  Intersections become labeled with both operands and the intersection operator.  Same with unions and other operations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then render the OpenSCAD form into some representation, perhaps voxels, perhaps STL.  Voxels have a resolution limit but are intrinsically the simplest form.  STLs might require an optimization pass to find redundant edges -- although that may already be part of STL generation process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, go through the tagged representation voxel by voxel or triangle by triangle.  Set the bit reserved with every token and expression to &quot;one&quot; for every identifier associated with that voxel or trianble.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, check the bits on each of the source tokens and expressions.  If the bit is zero, that particular element contributed nothing to the result.  If the bit is one, that is needed in the result.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is oversimplified because one source element can be used several times.  Some may contribute to the output, and some may not.  A fully expanded version of the source should be used, and we have to invent notation for reporting that instance 1 and 3 is used but 2 is not.  I'm sure there are other over-simplifications which someone reading this will immediately realize.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think, though, that this would be a path forward to the OpenSCAD optimizer you want.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the meantime, OpenSCAD provides some prefix characters.  One of the, maybe &quot;*&quot;, removes a sub-tree from the generated geometry without messing up the parsing.  I frequently use that mark to find out if code is used and to what it contributes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2082" LastActivityDate="2020-03-26T01:20:01.470" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12249" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13267" CreationDate="2020-03-26T01:26:05.873" Score="4" ViewCount="6820" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have the original Prusa i3m3 printer.  Prusa recommends cleaning the bed before each print with isopropanol (isopropyl alcohol), with only occasional cleaning with acetone.  The textured bed prohibits using acetone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given the SARS-COV-2 situation and COVID-19, isopropanol is impossible to find, and will not be in stock on shelves in the US for months.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What would you suggest as an alternative that might still be found on store shelves?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2082" LastActivityDate="2020-04-01T07:01:13.170" Title="PRUSA likes the bed to be cleaned with isopropyl alcohol. What else should I use?" Tags="|prusa-i3|acetone|cleaning|bed|pei|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12250" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12229" CreationDate="2020-03-26T05:27:38.170" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I respectfully disagree with the hard no answer.  There are many casting methods, some of which are not compatible with 3D printed parts and at least one that definitely is.  See investment casting, aka lost wax casting.  (Ref 1)  Also search YouTube for &quot;investment casting using 3D printing&quot;.  Formlabs, the company that makes the Form 2 and Form 3 3D printers, sells a 3d printable resin specifically for investment casting. (Ref 2).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a whole world of casting, so I will describe, as an example, a very simple process that will make a replica of your 3D printed part.  I will briefly address the steps necessary for making multiple copies at the end of my answer.  First you need to add a cylindrical extension to the shape that will create a sprue.  See the two models shown in the image below.  Next make a foil cup a little larger than your 3D printed part and place your part in the cup, suspended by the sprue.  Pour liquid plaster of Paris (POP) into the cup, covering the 3D printed part, with just the top of the sprue sticking out.  Once the POP has hardened, you can remove the 3D printed part by dissolving it in an organic solvent (acetone for acrylic) or by heating the part to several hundred degrees C so it will burn out (convert to gasses).  You will now have a block of POP with a void shaped like your 3D printed part plus a cylindrical hole to the outside that acts as a sprue.  Once you have heated the POP to drive out any remaining water, you're ready to cast.  Fill the void (via the sprue hole) with, for example, copper powder and heat it to well above its melting point.  Once everything has cooled, lightly tap the POP with a small hammer or equivalent, to remove it, leaving your final part plus the sprue.   You can remove any remaining POP with some warm baking soda and patience.  The final step is to cut or saw off the sprue shape. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please understand that the process described above is just to give you a basic idea of the process.  There are many alternate or additional steps that may produce a better final product.  Also, the process described should work of the rook model shown on the left of the image below, but not the model on the right, which has a small hole through the middle.  There are ways to solve that issue, but as I said before, there is a whole world of this stuff.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Casting is a way to create parts out of materials that you otherwise could not 3D print directly (on a home budget).  For mass production, you would need to start with an inverse of the final shape.  For example, a cylindrical slug with a rook-shaped void.  Then you would use the investment casting process to create a mold out of a rigid material that you could use to, for example, create rubber copies of the original part that could, in turn, be used as the &quot;wax&quot; for copies in the final material.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I urge you to experiment, maybe following one of the tutorials on YouTube.  Good luck.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xii6A.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xii6A.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ref 1 - Investment Casting&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Investment_casting&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Investment_casting&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ref 2 - FormLabs 3D printable casting resin&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://support.formlabs.com/s/article/Using-Castable-Resin?language=en_US&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://support.formlabs.com/s/article/Using-Castable-Resin?language=en_US&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7166" LastEditorUserId="7166" LastEditDate="2020-03-26T05:56:40.143" LastActivityDate="2020-03-26T05:56:40.143" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12252" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12235" CreationDate="2020-03-26T17:05:34.817" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The easiest way to know how powerful the PSU should be is to download from &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/rcarlyle/StepperSim&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://github.com/rcarlyle/StepperSim&lt;/a&gt; the Excel workbook which simulates the power absorbed by the stepper motor. Input the motor specifications, check in the graph the max speed at which you plan to run it, check the absorbed power, add 20% for the various losses. Once you know the absorbed power, you can multiply by the number of stepper motors and obtain the current required, add 20% not to stress the PSU too much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In you case, this is the result&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yoKsG.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yoKsG.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your motor will never absorb more than 7 W, 14 W for the two motors, around 20 W considering losses in the motors and overcapacity of the PSU. This means that around 2 A PSU will be perfect for your setup.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Previous answer, which may not be completely correct but still provides a useful background knowledge:&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The TMC drivers limit the current to the value you set, which is most of the time lower than the datasheet. In no case you will need more than 1.3 A * sqrt(2) * 2 motors = 3.6 A. In fact, you won't need this much either.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When there is no field in a coil, the driver applies full voltage, but the current is low (initially zero) so you don't hit the 1.3 A per coil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The current increases (the higher the maximum voltage available to the driver, the faster it increases) and the driver (probably) keeps the full voltage until the preset current is reached. Just a moment before that, the current is almost there, but you still have full voltage from the power supply. This is the theoretical worst case, but it applies only for a very short amount of time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As soon as the current reaches the preset, the driver &quot;cuts the voltage&quot; to keep  2.4 ohm * 1.3 A = 3.2 V (because V = R * I). This means that the power supply sees 3.2 A/12 V*1.3 A = 0.35 A.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When running, the motors almost never start from zero to max current: both coils are powered and when one increases, the other one decreases.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In fact, the microstepping makes the steppers act more or less like AC motors with two phases. This means that overall the current is the max current per phase multipled by sqrt(2). Also, when using microstepping one phase (coil) is not completely shut off, but two of them work at the same time (with different current levels). This means that in total one compensates the other, and the power supply only provides, more or less, 0.35 * 1.4 = 0.5 A per stepper. You have two, so it's 1 A total, therefore 2 A PSU considering the inefficiencies.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A very easy and complete explanation is provided &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.njr.com/semicon/PDF/application_notes/Drive_circuit_basics_APP_E.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;By controlling the duty cycle of the chopper, an average voltage and&#xA;  an average current equal to the nominal motor voltage and current are&#xA;  created. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;As the current increases, a voltage develops across the&#xA;  sensing resistor, which is fed back to the comparator. At the&#xA;  predetermined level, defined by the voltage at the reference input,&#xA;  the comparator resets the flipflop, which turns off the output&#xA;  transistor. The current decreases until the clock oscillator triggers&#xA;  the flip-flops, which turns on the output transistor again, and the&#xA;  cycle is repeated&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So you never have coming out of the PSU more than the preset current.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Supply current is not the same as the motor current in a copper drive&lt;/strong&gt;. It is the motor current multiplied by the dutycycle, at&#xA;  standstill typically Isupply = IM · ( VM ⁄ Vsupply ) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Depending on&#xA;  how the H-bridge is switched during the turn-off period, the current&#xA;  will either recirculate through one transistor and one diode (path 2),&#xA;  giving the slow current decay, or recirculate back through the power&#xA;  supply (path 3). The advantage of &lt;strong&gt;feeding the power back to the&#xA;  power supply&lt;/strong&gt; is the fast current decay and the ability to quickly&#xA;  reduce to a lower current level.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2338" LastEditorUserId="2338" LastEditDate="2020-04-23T08:35:46.957" LastActivityDate="2020-04-23T08:35:46.957" CommentCount="15" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12253" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12235" CreationDate="2020-03-26T18:12:45.477" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, A power supply that can deliver 12 volts and up to 15 Amps will work. Since that board says 12 V, that means it is designed to work at 12V. The components on the board might not survive 24V. The TMC stepper motor drivers specified can tolerate a max of 2.5 amps. That current draw is dependent on the per phase winding impedance of the motors that are used. @2.4 ohms phase resistance, that 12 volts could generate a max of 5 amps (more than the Trinamic can tolerate). Therefore, if you configure the stepper drivers to operate at more than 50% power, they will overheat and shutdown.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12857" LastActivityDate="2020-03-26T18:12:45.477" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12255" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-03-27T01:09:43.523" Score="0" ViewCount="399" Body="&lt;p&gt;I built a 3D printer from scratch originally using a RAMPS 1.4 shield with Arduino Mega as a controller. About a week into the printer being finished and working well I installed a heated bed. It worked well at first, but after about a week one of the MOSFETs got really hot and started to smoke while the bed was heating up. After that I decided to get a new RAMPS 1.4 shield, and the same thing happened. After doing some research online, I found out that the MOSFETS on the RAMPS 1.4 typically under perform, and there are upgrades that handle the power much better. I decided to buy a RAMPS 1.6, as I had found it was rated to handle the extra current. The 1.6 worked really well for about a week, until earlier today while the bed was heating up for another print, the power connector began to smoke and caught fire very quickly. (Luckily I was aware of problems like that and watching it and was quickly able to unplug it). Note that this was a problem with the power connector and not the MOSFETs like the 1.4 board. To try and troubleshoot the problem, I plugged to power in and only the power (no USB connection) and immediately the power connection began to smoke again. So at this point I don't know how to approach this problem. I don't know what is causing it. Should I buy a new board? (I don't want to go with RAMPS again) or is there  a way to fix the power connection? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20505" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-03-27T17:20:47.927" LastActivityDate="2020-03-27T17:20:47.927" Title="RAMPS 1.6 power connector caught on fire while heating bed" Tags="|ramps-1.6|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12256" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-03-27T01:58:55.810" Score="1" ViewCount="205" Body="&lt;p&gt;I occasionally have a problem with warping and peeling. Mostly this is fine; it only happens rarely. Recently it happened again on a larger item, and it gave me an idea. I went back and looked, and I noticed it's much more likely to happen when I have very large layers near the base of the print, where the time between layers is too long. The print cools down too much before the next layer can cover it, causing the warping.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To help avoid this issue, I'd like to have Cura alert me somehow if I'm gonna have times for individuals layers greater than, say, 4 minutes (I'll improve on that number over time).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this possible?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In posting this, I noticed an &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/3465/cooling-for-big-layers&quot;&gt;even better option for slic3r&lt;/a&gt; to automatically disable the cooling. If Cura can do that, I'd also like to know how. But I still want to know about alerting for those layers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12562" LastEditorUserId="12562" LastEditDate="2020-10-01T01:02:28.693" LastActivityDate="2021-02-28T01:06:35.670" Title="Can Cura alert me (give a warning) if it estimates times for layers are too long?" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|slicing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12258" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12262" CreationDate="2020-03-27T13:35:13.377" Score="0" ViewCount="3910" Body="&lt;p&gt;I work with Fusion360 for designing lots of things. Recently I learned how to work with parameters that I can easily modify all at once, allowing to pretty much make easily customizable pieces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, Thingiverse wants customizer pieces in the shape of &lt;code&gt;.SCAD&lt;/code&gt; files, and some people just can't work with Fusion360 (&lt;code&gt;.F3D&lt;/code&gt;) or proper &lt;code&gt;.STEP&lt;/code&gt; files that can be imported by most CAD programs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have no experience with OpenSCAD. Can I import my &lt;code&gt;.STEP&lt;/code&gt; into openSCAD, retain my parameters and export it as a &lt;code&gt;.SCAD&lt;/code&gt;, and if yes, how?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2020-06-25T21:10:00.503" LastActivityDate="2024-01-03T15:06:20.267" Title=".STEP/.F3D to .SCAD file?" Tags="|file-formats|openscad|fusion360|.step|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12260" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12256" CreationDate="2020-03-27T15:54:41.947" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Look at Cura's cooling settings. It doesn't have a warning like you asked for, but it does have options to control the fan to avoid over-cooling. I think you need to set &quot;Regular/Maximum Fan Speed Threshold&quot; to the number of seconds you want to consider a &quot;long time&quot; for a layer to take, then set &quot;Regular Fan Speed&quot; (for layers that take a long time) to 0 or something low, and &quot;Maximum Fan Speed&quot; to 100 or whatever you normally want to be using.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2020-03-27T15:54:41.947" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12261" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-03-27T17:48:27.617" Score="0" ViewCount="3733" Body="&lt;p&gt;Me: Experienced coder, Entry level 3D print person.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Setup&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ender 5 Plus&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Creality V2.2 Board&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;BLTouch&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Marlin&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Titan Aero&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Notes: Using a custom mount for the head and probe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Front Left Top is 0,0,0&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;X/Y End Stops are at TOP REAR RIGHT&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am unable to find a configuration that sets the head to the center of the bed X Y after home&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have tried &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Max Min Offset&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;probe to nozzle offset&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;hotend offset&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;moving the endstops&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;changing the bedsize&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Setting G92 position 0 0 at the true 0 0 &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;setting center to 0 0&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;setting front left edge to 0 0&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;setting right rear to 360 360&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;setting true center at 180 180&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;ender 3 screen (to use menu to align)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;BTT-TFT35 Screen (to use menu to align)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Marlin latest&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;InsanityAutomation/Marlin Darwin&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Th3d Marlin latest&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cura 4.4.1&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cura Latast&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Octopi&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Console (setting params and values manually, EEPROM)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;None of the above trials, either alone or combined in appropriate ways are centering the head to the bed after home.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only way I can even move where the hotend ends up after home, is by changing &lt;code&gt;X_BED_SIZE&lt;/code&gt; and &lt;code&gt;X_BED_SIZE&lt;/code&gt; (still unable to use the specified area of the bed and center the head).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20506" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-03-27T22:45:48.727" LastActivityDate="2020-03-27T22:45:48.727" Title="Ender 5 Plus offset issue" Tags="|homing|creality-ender-5|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12262" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12258" CreationDate="2020-03-27T18:13:35.550" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Even though OpenSCAD can import a variety of formats, the file structure will not be accepted by Thingiverse in the manner presented by the OP.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;OpenSCAD is a text-based description language. One creates parameters assigned to specific aspects of a model and implements those parameters to create the desired shapes/components by typing in a text editor. The native editor for OpenSCAD provides for some management, but notepad or equivalent would work just as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The file format of OpenSCAD is text. None of the CAD type modeling programs will provide equivalent text output.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For your objective, you'd have to learn the basics of OpenSCAD (not particularly difficult) and reference the parameters in the STEP files, then assign them to the appropriate labels in OpenSCAD.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have particularly complex designs, it can be a handful. It can also be rewarding when you change a parameter as a test and the complete model follows as expected.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastActivityDate="2020-03-27T18:13:35.550" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12263" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12264" CreationDate="2020-03-27T21:18:32.310" Score="1" ViewCount="708" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm having an issue with my Prusa i3 MK2 MMU.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It starts printing just fine, and everything gets up to operating temp quite quickly. However, after printing the first few layers, it seems as if the heated bed can't keep up with the demand, and its temperature starts to drop, first it can barely hold 80&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C and then it slowly drops down to 77-76&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C before the printer shuts off due to &lt;code&gt;BED THERMAL RUNAWAY&lt;/code&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The LED is continuously on for the bed, so it seems to be supplying power when this happens. Setting the printer down from high power to &quot;silent&quot; helps a bit, so could this be that it is not getting enough power?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ambient temp is around 17&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9516" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-03-28T05:47:21.083" LastActivityDate="2020-03-28T05:48:45.927" Title="Prusa i3 MK2 Heated Bed Thermal Runaway Problems" Tags="|prusa-i3|heated-bed|heat-management|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12264" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12263" CreationDate="2020-03-27T21:57:54.160" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The local library makerspace (prior to COVID-19 shutdown) has a Prusa i3 MK2 (no MMU) that had a similar problem. The model being printed was relatively small, compared to the bed and was being printed nearly atop the temperature sensor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The part cooling fan was cooling the bed sensor while the rest of the bed was not being used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Moving the model away from the sensor resolved the problem. If you're printing in the center of the bed, consider to re-slice in a position offset from the center.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are using the PEI sheet as the library machine is/was, consider to shuttle your prints around the bed over time. The library's printer wore away the PEI from always-centered prints. It had to be replaced after about a year. The replacement is going on two years with little complications.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-03-28T05:48:45.927" LastActivityDate="2020-03-28T05:48:45.927" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12265" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13266" CreationDate="2020-03-28T11:25:38.903" Score="0" ViewCount="308" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to add an &lt;strong&gt;external SD card adapter&lt;/strong&gt; on my &lt;strong&gt;RepRapDiscount Full Graphics LCD&lt;/strong&gt;. My 3D printer is based on (Arduino Mega + RAMPS v1.4 + RepRapDiscount Full Graphics LCD). &#xA;I buy an SD Card Adapter from Aliexpress  (&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32873382195.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.4f544c4d5UzB1L&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32873382195.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.4f544c4d5UzB1L&lt;/a&gt;) and now I want to add this adapter on my RAMPS 1.4 while not disturbing the working of RepRapDiscount Full Graphics LCD. &#xA;Please guide me how can I add this to my RAMPS? Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;My 3D Printer Details:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Model: A Standard DIY Prusa 3D Printer (Cartesian)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Firmware: Repetier Firmware&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MrNnS.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MrNnS.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Wg9g4.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Wg9g4.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20515" LastActivityDate="2020-03-28T21:31:36.867" Title="Makerbase MKS Slot2 V1.0 + RepRapDiscount Full Graphics LCD + RAMPS 1.4" Tags="|diy-3d-printer|ramps-1.4|reprap|full-graphic-smart-controller|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12266" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-03-28T12:09:04.307" Score="0" ViewCount="610" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an Arduino Mega clone and RAMPS 1.4 together with A4988 drivers and NEMA 17 motors which won't move. Motors can be turned easily by hand both when the RAMPS &lt;em&gt;is&lt;/em&gt; powered and is not powered. There is ~12&amp;nbsp;V between VMOT and GND on the driver. I don't have multimeter capable of detecting pulses. I have all pins under the driver connected to enable 1/16 steps. I didn't touch the pot on driver.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I have tried:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Using Marlin 1.x, 2.x and RAMPS 1.4 test program &lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/wiki/File:RAMPS14_test.zip&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://reprap.org/wiki/File:RAMPS14_test.zip&lt;/a&gt; which lighted up the diodes but didn't move motors.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Different wiring (pin numbering looking on the connector on motor from the shaft side left to right)&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;2B -- pin 1             2B -- pin 4&#xA;2A -- pin 3             2A -- pin 1&#xA;1A -- pin 4             1A -- pin 3&#xA;1B -- pin 6             1B -- pin 6&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tried to wire driver separately with ATX power supply following this instructable: &lt;a href=&quot;https://howtomechatronics.com/tutorials/arduino/how-to-control-stepper-motor-with-a4988-driver-and-arduino/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://howtomechatronics.com/tutorials/arduino/how-to-control-stepper-motor-with-a4988-driver-and-arduino/&lt;/a&gt; and motors still din't run. This means I either wired it all wrong, fried all my motors or all my drivers. Is that even possible?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can you please help me to find out what's wrong?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8343" LastEditorUserId="8343" LastEditDate="2020-03-28T15:04:19.483" LastActivityDate="2020-03-28T15:04:19.483" Title="Stepper motors won't move on RAMPS 1.4" Tags="|marlin|ramps-1.4|motor|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13265" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-03-28T21:16:33.183" Score="1" ViewCount="40" Body="&lt;p&gt;On my delta printer I have linear rails and one of them (rail+block) started squeeking while printing. I have thought about these causes: 1) the rails are not lubricated well enough, they were always lubricated from the outside (grease put on rail) since the instalation about 4 years ago 2) they are wearing out and need replacing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have couple questions about both possible causes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The everlasting question: which lubricant do I use? I have seen many to use grease and many others discouraging from that. If not grease, what else? I have Konkor 101 (might not be available in English) or WD40 as lubricant oils.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I remove the block from the rail, clear both and apply new lubricant from the inside (i.e. on the inside of the block, to the steel balls)? Or is from the outside enough? (I supect it is not.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the rail and block is failing, which one of them? I mean, most parts are designed that some fail sooner than others because they are easier to replace. Is the block wearing out (because it is more delicate) while the rail is still holding (because it is essentially just a block of metal)? Therefore replacing block could solve the problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16997" LastActivityDate="2020-03-28T21:16:33.183" Title="Linear rails maintenace" Tags="|maintenance|linear-motion|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="5" ClosedDate="2020-03-29T22:22:10.297" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13266" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12265" CreationDate="2020-03-28T21:21:43.023" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;A RepRapDiscount Full Graphics LCD already has an SD card slot reader at the back of the board:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IPVXr.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;RepRapDiscount Full Graphics LCD backside&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IPVXr.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;RepRapDiscount Full Graphics LCD backside&quot; title=&quot;RepRapDiscount Full Graphics LCD backside&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically one of the 10 pin headers is used for the display and rotary encoder and reset, the other header is used by the SD card reader.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The module referenced in the question is a breakout SD card slot reader for the TFT (touchscreen) display controllers. Whether these are compatible with the EXP2 header of the RepRapDiscount Full Graphics LCD should be compared with the schematics. The schematics of the RepRapDiscount Full Graphics LCD are available, but for the SD slot breakout cannot be found. It is therefore unsure if the EXP2 is fully compatible for the SD slot board. To use the EXP2 on a RAMPS shield, you need the L-shaped connector.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The description of the Slot2 explicitly says that it is meant to be connected to either a TFT35 or a TFT70 MKS touchscreen display. In order to use it directly to your RAMPS shield requires finding out which pin goes where.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-03-28T21:31:36.867" LastActivityDate="2020-03-28T21:31:36.867" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13267" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12249" CreationDate="2020-03-28T23:06:21.273" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Ethanol&lt;/strong&gt; (Ethyl Alcohol) should work just fine as long as it's around 80% or more. It's very similar to isopropanol as a cleaning solvent. What you're basically doing is removing any stray grease from the bed with a solvent that evaporates quickly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Methanol&lt;/strong&gt; would also probably work. It's very poisonous though, and shouldn't come into contact with your skin, so it requires a bit more careful handling. Methanol also has the benefit that it can't be used for hand sanitizer (since it's absorbed through the skin), so supplies shouldn't run out. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Look for alternative sources, for example, methanol is often sold as de-icing agent for pneumatic brakes on trucks. Just make sure it's pure alcohol without anything funky added. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9516" LastEditorUserId="9516" LastEditDate="2020-03-29T09:12:02.203" LastActivityDate="2020-03-29T09:12:02.203" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13268" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-03-28T23:56:20.797" Score="2" ViewCount="724" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Wanhao Duplicator i3 from which  I have blown the Z axis stepper motor. I would like to be able to have all three axes of motion available for another project. I am trying to see if there's an easy way so that instead of using the Z (blown out) motor driver, it uses the extrude motor driver to control the Z axis. Like when it gets the command to move the Z, it outputs that command through the extruder motor. I'm using Marlin firmware (i3 plus plus) if that helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20526" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-03-29T04:54:56.203" LastActivityDate="2020-03-29T04:54:56.203" Title="Is there any way I can remap pins so the Z axis outputs through the extruder driver?" Tags="|marlin|motor|wanhao|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13269" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16647" CreationDate="2020-03-29T09:55:18.983" Score="2" ViewCount="3469" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm new to 3D printing and have bought an Ender 3. I have printed a few good prints but I'm noticing a worsening issue: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I select &quot;autohome&quot; the axes head towards their limit switches, but the y axis in particular seems to slam into the limit switch, bending it away, meaning that the platform bounces off and doesn't activate the limit switch a second time&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This causes the machine to slam against the back over and over until the limit switch is triggered or power is removed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've replaced the limit switch twice&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've tried supergluing the limit switch to its PCB but even with a needle and patience this caused the limit switch to be ruined&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What can I do?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: Here are some photos of the switch (2nd replacement). The OEM switch also did the same thing, but I don't have photos of that. The screws are loose in these photos, but this is just because my Allen key is lost - the previous two switches had the screws reasonably tightened with the correct Allen key, provided in the box&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/myOyr.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/myOyr.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LJ7vM.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LJ7vM.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/C3JHa.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/C3JHa.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20528" LastEditorUserId="20528" LastEditDate="2020-03-29T12:43:27.770" LastActivityDate="2021-06-28T12:47:11.770" Title="Homing damages limit switches Ender 3" Tags="|creality-ender-3|troubleshooting|homing|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13270" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-03-29T10:39:08.167" Score="1" ViewCount="3448" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use an Ender 3, with cheap Amazon &quot;Eryone PLA&quot;, which states a range from 190-220&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C, 1.75&amp;nbsp;mm dia. I have had this for about a year.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I use the rough build plate, not the glass. I have tried my best to level the bed but I am an amateur&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was originally getting poor adhesion so I cleaned the bed, levelled it, increased filament temp to 196&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C and heated the bed to 40&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C, with no fans in a house around 20&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C with not much airflow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This helped adhesion, but my layers are very messy - the first perimeter may adhere correctly, but subsequent layers curl off, meaning the inner passes lift off the build plate. Attempting to persevere, pulling out these regions causes the blobby, ridged mess shown below. This is still the first layer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have noticed the extruder makes a knocking noise every so often, and the edges of prints can be so thin they are translucent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've browsed the web for common 3D printing errors but nothing I've found or tried has helped.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tOT5H.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tOT5H.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;print&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20528" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-03-29T10:49:54.913" LastActivityDate="2020-12-27T21:51:38.363" Title="Why are my layers messy and curling off the print bed?" Tags="|print-quality|creality-ender-3|troubleshooting|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13271" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-03-29T14:17:12.647" Score="0" ViewCount="566" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am trying to import an STL file, I created in FreeCAD. It has a hole in the hull of the object and behind that hole there are two pins inside the object (see attached FreeCAD screenshot).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I import the STL in Cura, there are no walls around the whole object where there is the hole in the hull (see attached Cura screenshots). However the wall and the hole are visible in light grey, Cura just doesn't print it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Update:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt; I understand the problem. It's not a watertight solid. I found a way to import it somewhat fine using meshmixer to create a hollow with an offset which makes the outer Hull actually have a thickness to it. Now the problem is, that's not really what I want. The result in cura now can't be printed with infill since the actual inside of the model is only within the walls. Also cura sees both sides of the wall as outer Perimeter. I understand the problem but actually am looking for a way to just prevent printing part of the regular model's wall.. In other words: I would basically like to set the whall line count to zero in that particular area. I just tried to use the support blocker and &quot;Modify settings for overlap&quot; but that doesn't do anything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;CURA:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hrCAY.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hrCAY.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA; &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7ETuW.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7ETuW.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;FreeCAD:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Lddxh.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Lddxh.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18536" LastEditorUserId="18536" LastEditDate="2020-03-30T08:33:59.640" LastActivityDate="2020-08-28T07:45:10.037" Title="Cura imports FreeCAD stl wrong" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|slicing|freecad|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13272" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13270" CreationDate="2020-03-29T15:55:59.267" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is clearly overextrusion relative to the volume the material is being deposited into, but that doesn't necessarily mean your extrusion rate is wrong. It could be:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Nozzle smashed down into the bed (bed way too high) but somehow still extruding&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Problem in Z axis movement preventing the head from moving up the right amount for each layer (possibly not moving up at all?)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Extrusion (flow) increased significantly above 100% in slicer&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wrong extruder steps/mm setting (usually controlled on printer not slicer, though you can send a setting in the start gcode)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Misconfigued filament diameter (unlikely since there's no common setting smaller than 1.75 mm; larger setting would under-extrude)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2020-03-29T15:55:59.267" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13273" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-03-29T18:12:08.197" Score="1" ViewCount="368" Body="&lt;p&gt;I fired up my printer again last night to print something (Printrbot LC that I have customized), and happened to notice the Octopi instance still had a file that I printed ~5 years ago. Also, I noticed i had files from ~2013 when I got started. My printer is from that time, so keep that in mind.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've noticed that sometimes I will see a Y axis shift, and then the print will correct itself. It did it again last night.  Since this had happened before, I thought maybe the wires for the heated beds were getting snagged on something, so I made sure they were out of the way, and made sure they had proper strain relief before printing &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3086428/files&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this thing&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, about 1 cm up the Z axis, my print had a 1-2 mm shift of the Y axis for ~2-3 mm, and then corrected* itself somehow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The Question&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is this kind of problem called?  What should I look for to try to troubleshoot it?  Let's make sure to include the possibility that one of my upgrades has gone awry to leave no stone unturned.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Stay on Target&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My printer probably also has other problems, and that's fine to point them out after addressing my primary concern.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*Almost completely corrected itself.  Maybe .5-1 mm off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;This is the print.&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It'll be serviceable after some filing.  It's from this thing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hNd6N.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hNd6N.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JY1sE.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JY1sE.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7N2kh.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7N2kh.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;This is my printer&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VGxe3.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VGxe3.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Upgrades&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Printrbot LC, I want to say I bought in 2010.  It was a kit and I assembled it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;This pic is from 2014 and it's about the same.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I've extended the physical Z height, but supposedly the firmware needs to be updated to make use of it. I would still need to adjust the wiring too.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I've extended the Y axis (front to back).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;As part of extending the Y axis, I added a 2nd heated bed. It's not plugged in, and I only use the one which is the one closest to the camera. There is room for a 3rd bed, but that was an accidental bit of engineering.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There was a lot of bow in the bed, even with the added support.  I manually adapted &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:55053&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this thing&lt;/a&gt; to add in a bearing to support the bed near where the hotend was.  Manually with a dremel, super glue, etc.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I have noticed a clicking where the support bearing touches a screw holding the aluminum rail to the wood, but that would only impact prints for the second bed.  The print I am asking about was in the middle of the primary bed, and far away from this.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I updated the belt and pulley to the G2(?) belts.  Those are standard now, but this was an upgrade for this bot.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I added an additional support bearing for the hotends, which reduced the X axis slightly.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Added fans for the part and the incoming filament.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Misc&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bed is manually leveled by adjusting screws and nuts&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Glass is held to the bed by small aligator clips&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I print on bare glass with purple glue&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I am using PLA+, hotend at 220 °C, and bed at 60 °C&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I have an old version of OctoPi on a Raspberry Pi 1 controlling the printer&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I sliced last night with Cura 4.1.0&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I use 3 mm filament&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Printer has a .4 or .5 mm hotend, whatever was stock (I don't recall, and I don't see the setting in Cura)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Printing at .2 mm height&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I have noticed some wear on the 3D printed gears for the extruder, but they still seem to be working.  I've been meaning to print some spares, and have printed a spare bigger one in case they fail.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The printer has wooden 1x4 supports in one corner, so none of the PVC cage moves at all now.  It didn't move much before unless I was pushing on it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I printed and screwed in some stops that go around the feet of the printer to prevent it from moving around.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The printer is very rigid with the above feet stops, the wooden supports, and the ~20lb roll of filament on top of the Z axis.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The y axis has some friction and some spots are tighter than others, so I will keep looking at the mechanics of the bed to see what I can do.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Things I have tried so far&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tried multiple things at a time, because screw science lol.  Close to order of operations below, but not perfect.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Upgraded Cura to 4.5.0&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Printed multiple times.  Still have the problem.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rotated print by 180 degrees.  Same problem in same direction, at same height. Towards the Y axis zero.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Adjusted flow to 97%, so now I'm not overextruding.  The screw holes come out as screw holes, and the top surface looks mostly normal.  Once I'm done with this print, I might try 95%.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cut a zip tie that may have been catching on bed clips.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Added more clips to hold the glass to the bed.  Removed old clips that were worn out and may have been impacting the gantry.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Adjusted the tension on the screw that holds the bed and the guide rods, to reduce friction of the guide rods and their bearings.  This reduced friction, but did not have an effect on the print.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rotated print by 90 degrees.  Same problem in same direction, at same height.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Watched the printer as it was printing the strange part.  There were no mechanical collisions, and things seemed normal.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;More thoughts&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I will look into spinning up a new Octoprint server on a newer Raspberry Pi to see if that helps.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I am having a hard time finding examples of layer shift that didn't 100% kill the print.  The fact that this corrects itself makes me think it's not the usual mechanical problems associated with layer shift.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I have added the other thing to the print (from the same designer and thing page), and we'll see if they both have the problem, or what else might happen.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Updated pics&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OJzOR.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OJzOR.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9tVqp.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9tVqp.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Yd97B.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Yd97B.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QPShI.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QPShI.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5576" LastEditorUserId="13937" LastEditDate="2021-08-07T10:19:20.653" LastActivityDate="2021-08-07T20:44:05.970" Title="What kind of problem is this? How does it correct itself?" Tags="|print-quality|diy-3d-printer|troubleshooting|y-axis|pla+|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13274" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13271" CreationDate="2020-03-29T18:53:03.767" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I suspect that your method to create the hole for the pins may not be consistent with the modeling practice that FreeCad and other programs of this nature require.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Consider the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Import your base shape.&#xA;Create a second shape that matches the hole you wish to create. It must be a solid object, not a plane or other single surface item.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Consult one of the &lt;a href=&quot;https://wiki.freecadweb.org/Basic_modeling_tutorial&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;many FreeCad tutorials&lt;/a&gt; that present the method to use next, that is to place the shape to be subtracted in the desired location, then perform a Boolean operation involving both objects. In the linked tutorial, it's referred to as a cut, which is an accurate description.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Performing this action will create a surface where the two objects intersect, removing the smaller one, leaving a solid, rather than a zero thickness surface. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You would then create and place the cylinders in a manner consistent with the original model.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastActivityDate="2020-03-29T18:53:03.767" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13275" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13277" CreationDate="2020-03-29T23:00:04.660" Score="1" ViewCount="1221" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm new to 3D Printing and recently purchased an Ender 3D PRO I'm having an issue with the filament guide tube getting pushed out of the nozzle on the feeding mechanism.  The assembly instructions don't include a whole lot of detail about installing this guide tube but there are blue clips that were included along with the spare nozzle.  There are no instructions on where to use these blue clips and I have a hunch this might be the problem. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20535" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-03-30T07:01:31.380" LastActivityDate="2020-03-30T11:23:39.643" Title="Filament feed tube" Tags="|extruder|creality-ender-3|bowden|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13277" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13275" CreationDate="2020-03-30T02:31:51.653" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The blue clips stick in the connector on the extruder end of the feed tube. They are to keep it from opening as the printer extrudes and retracts filament.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To install them, push them in between the white part of the fitting on the feed tube (not the hot end). You should only need one or two, and they are all of varying thicknesses. If you're not familiar with these fittings, I found a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6BummHzgf5c&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;YouTube video&lt;/a&gt; on how to use them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JsuQ4.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JsuQ4.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Fitting clips on a Creality Ender-3 feed tube&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20433" LastEditorUserId="20433" LastEditDate="2020-03-30T11:23:39.643" LastActivityDate="2020-03-30T11:23:39.643" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13279" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13275" CreationDate="2020-03-30T07:31:35.760" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The clips or collet clips as they are called are to secure the Bowden tube more solidly to improve printer extrusion; more specifically: extruder retraction performance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;E3D has explained this very nicely on their site under &lt;a href=&quot;https://e3d-online.com/blog/2017/10/27/bowden-tube-physics/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Bowden tube physics&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;For the bowden couplings (which can have some wiggle room in them) we are introducing collet clips, which slide under the toothed collet part of the coupling that physically holds the tube and locks it into place with a little pre-tension to boot. This reduces coupling lash to near zero as the collet and tube it is holding are locked into place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YobdM.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YobdM.png&quot; alt=&quot;Bowden collet clips principle&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.imgur.com/RTWnzB5.gif&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;animated gif from the E3D website&lt;/a&gt; (animated gifs are not allowed on SE) it can be seen that without clips, the tube can move in the tube coupling:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YfzfWm.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YfzfWm.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2OpuTm.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2OpuTm.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2020-03-30T07:31:35.760" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13280" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13273" CreationDate="2020-03-30T10:36:18.323" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;All those prints are terrible compared to what my Printrbot LC v2 can do, I think you should do a full calibration of the printer cooling, temperature, extrusion factor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway, the issue of layer shift corrects itself because ... it happens again. Nothing else.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Printrbot LC v2 had quite an aggressive acceleration already, and you increased the weight of the Y axis (frame, heated bed, rods) significantly. Have you reduced with &lt;a href=&quot;https://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M201.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;M201&lt;/a&gt; the Y acceleration? I wouldn't use anything above 1000, in your case. Maybe even less. Then the layer shift will disappear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That PVC structure seems non-rigid and could be wobbling laterally. You could put some kind of stiffener in or upgrade the frame with stiffer materials.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2338" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-08-07T20:44:05.970" LastActivityDate="2021-08-07T20:44:05.970" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13281" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12249" CreationDate="2020-03-30T10:37:26.860" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Dish soap will remove grease very well. Once you rinse it with a moist sponge and dry with a clean cloth most residues will be gone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2338" LastActivityDate="2020-03-30T10:37:26.860" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13282" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13289" CreationDate="2020-03-31T01:07:29.873" Score="1" ViewCount="133" Body="&lt;p&gt;Recently my RAMPS power connector caught fire while heating the heated bed. I suspect this was a defect caused by the connector, and de-soldered/removed it as best I could. I'm  not an electrical engineer, so I'm looking for advice on whether It is possible to re-solder the power connectors directly onto the board, or I'm just risking another fire. Here are pictures of the top and bottom.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BFnKQ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Top side of PCB and underside of power screw terminals, showing burning&quot; title=&quot;Top side of PCB and underside of power screw terminals, showing burning&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oWCMH.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Underside of PCB&quot; title=&quot;Underside of PCB&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20505" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2022-04-28T06:14:32.717" LastActivityDate="2022-04-28T06:14:32.717" Title="Can I resolder a power connections with a partially burnt board" Tags="|ramps-1.6|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13283" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13273" CreationDate="2020-03-31T04:40:48.207" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The photos show that the problem is occurring at around the same height. It seems that at a certain Z height something is deflecting the other axis (not sure if it's X or Y) which resolves itself. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suspect that the rod on which the Z axis rides is either bent or has a dimple, where the rollers pass over it. Either that or perhaps a roller has a dimple.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12857" LastEditorUserId="12857" LastEditDate="2020-03-31T21:06:45.520" LastActivityDate="2020-03-31T21:06:45.520" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13284" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8136" CreationDate="2020-03-31T04:45:57.493" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Blue Painters tape on the left side starting at the center and leaving a band on the far left side and the rear Perfetto side. I checked the before and after and the thickness of the tape shimmed out the deflection on the plate. It sounds like whatever the use to stamp the steel out is creating the bend we are only talking several thousands of an inch but when I put a flat edge on the plate and shined a light from the rear I could see daylight. The blue tape was from Nearys video on creality cr-10 bed leveling. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20548" LastActivityDate="2020-03-31T04:45:57.493" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13285" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-03-31T08:32:34.897" Score="0" ViewCount="128" Body="&lt;p&gt;As of current technological advancements, there exists Metal 3D printers that make use of Digital Light Processing (DLP) projector to 3D print metal objects. These printers use a mixture of metal powder and binder. The mixture is placed on the build platform and a laser light beam (or UV light beam, I'm not sure) projection of the layer to be printed is projected on top of the mixture. The light causes the binder to bind the metal powders to each other creating the desired layer. Similar process is repeated for subsequent layers until the object is fully printed. Once fully printed the object is de-binded and sintered in an oven to form the final object.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Now, my question is, like in SLS 3D printing, why cant we directly shoot high-power laser beams with the help of DLP projector onto the powder (without the binder) and cause the metal powder to sinter there itself?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20073" LastActivityDate="2020-03-31T14:39:25.480" Title="Metal sintering layer-by-layer with DLP" Tags="|post-processing|dlp|metal-printing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13286" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13282" CreationDate="2020-03-31T09:46:50.023" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Possible? Yes. Advisable? Perhaps not. Since it is the power connection, I would be tempted to solder the cables directly to the board. If the board is found to work, I would then install an external MOSFET for the heated bed, to reduce the amount of current that the controller has to handle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3953" LastActivityDate="2020-03-31T09:46:50.023" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13287" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13285" CreationDate="2020-03-31T12:30:52.757" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;SLS uses a high powered laser to smelt the binder of a ceramic or the metal itself. We are talking about at least a &lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/wiki/OpenSLS#Laser_Cutter&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;40 W&lt;/a&gt; laser which focuses its power on a circle of about 50 µm. How much power are we talking about with that lowest viable laser for plastic SLS?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$\frac{40\ \text{W}}{\pi \ 62.5\times 10^-9\ \text{m}^2}=640\times 10^6 \frac{\text{W}}{\text{m}²}$&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A typical SLA/DLP machine like the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.sparkmaker3d.com/sparkmaker-original&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Sparkmaker&lt;/a&gt; runs on 48 W in total. Assuming that's 40 W for their &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$55\text{ mm}\times98\text{ mm}=0,00539\text{ m}^2$&lt;/span&gt;, so the total projector power of the Sparkmaker is&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$\frac{40\ \text{W}}{\pi \ 0,00539\ \text{m}^2}=7.421\times 10^3 \frac{\text{W}}{\text{m}²}$&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's about &lt;strong&gt;5&lt;/strong&gt; orders of magnitude too little to smelt a layer in the same time. To get a DLP-like projector doing SLS work, you'd need a light source that runs at about a similar power per square meter - wich would just melt the moment it turns on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastActivityDate="2020-03-31T12:30:52.757" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13289" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13282" CreationDate="2020-03-31T15:19:31.793" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;As MIck wrote, we hope your board isn't damaged - with any luck there aren't any trace shorts in the melted region.    &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My approach would be slightly different.  Use some short bits of wire soldered into the board at one end and soldered to a new connector socket at the other end.  This way you can put a new plug connector on the power leads and be able to disconnect the board as desired. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2191" LastActivityDate="2020-03-31T15:19:31.793" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13290" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13295" CreationDate="2020-03-31T15:51:25.697" Score="1" ViewCount="4219" Body="&lt;p&gt;I followed this &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3TTuisjmbmY&amp;amp;t=624s&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;tutorial&lt;/a&gt; on how to set up &lt;strong&gt;BLTOUCH v3.0 with my Ender 3 Pro&lt;/strong&gt;. (v1.1.4 motherboard)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I even &lt;strong&gt;removed C7 capacitor&lt;/strong&gt; on Z axes. And &lt;strong&gt;no luck&lt;/strong&gt;. My BLTouch probe is working, it turns on with the Ender and testing is fine. But it doesn't stop the printer on Z axis while auto homing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Firmware is from firmware.th3dstudio.com&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas? Any advice is highly appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My configuration.h file: &lt;a href=&quot;https://paste.ofcode.org/Z4kKiGwYXC6yQ698t9uaeY&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://paste.ofcode.org/Z4kKiGwYXC6yQ698t9uaeY&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My configuration_backend.h file: &lt;a href=&quot;https://paste.ofcode.org/34tuX4mG3Ph57jSnT8YByi3&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://paste.ofcode.org/34tuX4mG3Ph57jSnT8YByi3&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20557" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-04-01T08:37:43.330" LastActivityDate="2020-04-01T08:51:17.013" Title="Problem with Creality v1.1.4 (Ender 3 Pro) and BLTOUCH v3.0 (removed C7 capacitor)" Tags="|creality-ender-3|bltouch|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13291" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12249" CreationDate="2020-03-31T19:31:55.853" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;https://cdn.prusa3d.com/downloads/manual/prusa3d_manual_mk3s_en_3_12.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Prusa manual&lt;/a&gt; also states that you can use Windex for PET-G:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;use Windex instead as it degreases less thoroughly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also works with PLA, I've tested it, but for assured adherence, I also use a little swipe of the glue stick included with the printer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12721" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-04-01T07:01:13.170" LastActivityDate="2020-04-01T07:01:13.170" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13292" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13270" CreationDate="2020-03-31T20:10:19.990" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd add to &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/13272&quot;&gt;R..'s answer&lt;/a&gt;: It could be:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;temperature is too high - which would cause the melted filament to flow a bit freely&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12721" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-07-16T14:01:18.527" LastActivityDate="2020-07-16T14:01:18.527" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13293" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7907" CreationDate="2020-04-01T05:49:58.567" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the newest version of Cura (4.5.0), in the per model settings, the only thing you can change for options set &lt;code&gt;Build Plate Adhesion&lt;/code&gt; is &lt;code&gt;Brim Distance&lt;/code&gt;. What this allows you to do however is create a brim for everything with the distance of a millimeter or two, and then for the part that needs the brim, you just set the distance to zero in the individual part settings. It's a little janky, but you essentially create a skirt for the parts that don't need a brim.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20569" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-04-01T06:56:36.347" LastActivityDate="2020-04-01T06:56:36.347" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13294" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-04-01T07:27:38.043" Score="4" ViewCount="1302" Body="&lt;p&gt;I usually use &lt;code&gt;Slic3r 1.3&lt;/code&gt; but now I'm trying the new &lt;code&gt;PrusaSlicer 2.2&lt;/code&gt; that offers new features.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I see that PrusaSlicer creates a lot of support material when compared to &lt;code&gt;Slic3r&lt;/code&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rQxar.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;screenshot comparison of Slic3r and PrusaSlicer sliced 3D model&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rQxar.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;screenshot comparison of Slic3r and PrusaSlicer sliced 3D model&quot; title=&quot;screenshot comparison of Slic3r and PrusaSlicer sliced 3D model&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;this involves two problems:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A lot of material is wasted&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The structure is very difficult to separate from the model&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is my configuration panel in Prusa:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lRm2K.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Screenshot of PrusaSlicer configuration panel&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lRm2K.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Screenshot of PrusaSlicer configuration panel&quot; title=&quot;Screenshot of PrusaSlicer configuration panel&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it just a settings problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20151" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-07-22T11:18:23.500" LastActivityDate="2023-07-05T13:05:54.287" Title="Prusa slicer and support material" Tags="|slicing|slic3r|support-structures|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13295" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13290" CreationDate="2020-04-01T08:45:33.890" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the probe works, but not on auto homing, it could be that the Z endstop/probe wires are incorrectly wired.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From &lt;a href=&quot;https://cdn.thingiverse.com/assets/67/42/7a/bf/ad/v3_Fixed_Creality_BLTOUCH_Guide.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&quot;The complete BLTouch/3DTouch guide for Creality printers (CR-10/s,Ender 2,Ender 3) for Auto Bed Leveling UPDATED&quot;&lt;/a&gt; can be read:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If you connect your bltouch and when auto homing the sensor doesn’t register&#xA;  &amp;amp; the z axis keeps dropping pressing into your bed, turn your printer off,&#xA;  disconnect the power and invert the black and white connectors in the z limit&#xA;  switch header (put black where white was, put white where black was).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This can also be found in &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/issues/12948&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this Marlin issue tracker&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The Problem was the polarity of the sensor wires was reversed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.reddit.com/r/ender3/comments/eee23n/ender_3_bltouch_v3_probe_not_stopping_for_z_axis/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;reversing the polarity does not work&lt;/a&gt;, move to the original Marlin firmware. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-04-01T08:51:17.013" LastActivityDate="2020-04-01T08:51:17.013" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13296" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13297" CreationDate="2020-04-01T18:13:20.377" Score="1" ViewCount="196" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have read that the cable colours depend on multiple factors:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Used voltage&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Kind of cable&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Type of voltage (DC or AC)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My cable looks like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ghH1zm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ghH1zm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;main_cable&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I live in Spain, in Europe. The colour codes of the International Electrotechnical Commission for AC circuits are &lt;a href=&quot;http://electronink.blogspot.com/2015/09/electronics-circuits.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;these ones&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FApMR.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FApMR.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My PSU has these possible connections&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/v4WwO.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/v4WwO.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;front_psu&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I guess these are the connections:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;L (AC). Brown colour. Single Phase line or Three Phase Line (L1)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;N (AC). Blue colour. Neutral&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;GND. Green and yellow colours. Protective earth or ground (PE)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;COM, COM ¿?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;V, V ¿?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;V(ADJ). This is a potentiometer, in order to modify the current voltage. Should I touch this?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I am not sure about what are the COM and the V ports. I assume they are for the DC connections, which is the positive and which the negative? The PSU does not have any manual and I am little lost&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I turn the potentiometer to change the voltage to adapt it to the Ramps 1.6 Plus board?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RtBErm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RtBErm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;ramps&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please correct me if I made some mistake in my question as well&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20470" LastActivityDate="2020-04-01T19:05:17.760" Title="Which connectors should I use to connect my Power Supply Unit to the Ramps?" Tags="|power-supply|color|wire-type|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13297" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13296" CreationDate="2020-04-01T19:05:17.760" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You're quite right :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;L (AC): Brown colour. Single Phase line or Three Phase Line (L1) &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;N (AC): Blue colour. Neutral &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;GND: Green and yellow colours. Protective earth or ground (PE) &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;COM: DC Negative (-) - Also referred to as &quot;Common&quot;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;V+: DC Positive (+)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;V(ADJ). This is for a potentiometer, in order to modify the output voltage. You won't need this unless your power supply is far off. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The way to go about these things is to connect the AC side and to connect a multimeter to the output terminals (V+ and COM, there are two of them in case you need to wire up more than one connection). I like to lightly tighten down the probes under the terminals, that way you don't have to mess with the connections with the mains terminals exposed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now you can plug in the power supply (PSU) and make sure it doesn't start smoking or sparking. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Verify that the PSU is outputting DC 12V (that seems to be the voltage required by your Ramps board according to the picture). After that, you can connect it to the Ramps board (remember to disconnect the PSU before rewiring). If the voltage is anything but around 12 V (+/- 0.5VDC should be safe), you need to verify that the PSU is the correct type for your application. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9516" LastActivityDate="2020-04-01T19:05:17.760" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13300" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13302" CreationDate="2020-04-02T02:20:31.650" Score="2" ViewCount="488" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently build a 3D printer from scratch and was using an Arduino Mega + RAMPS 1.4 to control it. A few weeks in I installed a heated bed to help my prints stick to the surface. The bed I bought was an Anet bed found on Amazon, I'm told they are prone to causing fires. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;About a week after I installed the bed, my the MOSFET on my RAMPS overheated and began to smoke. I could no longer perform without heating up too hot and smoking, so I bought another RAMPS 1.4 to replace it. The same thing happened and I returned it... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After doing some research and finding out the connectors and MOSFETs on the RAMPS 1.4 are typically undersized, I decided to upgrade to avoid the problem and go with a RAMPS 1.6 instead, which was supposed to better handle the current flow. After about a week of using the RAMPS 1.6, the power connection began to smoke and caught fire(Not the MOSFETs like the RAMPS 1.4, the incoming power connector). I attempted to remove the connector and resolder the wires, I couldn't get it to work. At this point I'm looking for advice on which controller to go with. I don't want to buy another RAMPS out of fear of the same thing happening, but I am also wondering if buying a different heated bed would fix the problem. So any recommendations on where to go from here? I've look at a few boards but one thing is some of them can only control 1 Z stepper driver, while my setup has Z.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20505" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-04-02T05:57:46.223" LastActivityDate="2020-04-02T14:17:07.943" Title="Which 3D printer controller should I use?" Tags="|heated-bed|ramps-1.4|ramps-1.6|mosfet|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13302" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13300" CreationDate="2020-04-02T06:37:53.607" Score="2" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Controller boards&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please note (this is not to bash) that RAMPS shields are not the top of the line printer controller boards, investing in a more modern printer board platform (preferably not a clone of a known board), e.g. a 32-bit board might be a better solution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any board with at least four stepper drivers should be sufficient (you can use the two Z steppers in parallel or in series), some boards even offer two Z stepper output connectors controlled by a single stepper, e.g.:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XV4Jf.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Two Z stepper ports on SKR PRO&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XV4Jf.png&quot; alt=&quot;Two Z stepper ports on SKR PRO&quot; title=&quot;Two Z stepper ports on SKR PRO&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No worries if the board doesn't have two Z stepper connectors, you can buy dual stepper breakout boards, e.g. a parallel solution:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XkxXjm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Dual Z stepper connector breakout board&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XkxXjm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Dual Z stepper connector breakout board&quot; title=&quot;Dual Z stepper connector breakout board&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively, an extra stepper driver can drive the extra Z stepper; this requires a board with at least 5 stepper drivers then, the Z2 stepper would then be connected to the E1 extruder driver. The firmware needs to be aware of using 2 stepper drivers, so in Marlin (depending on the version) set &lt;code&gt;Z_DUAL_STEPPER_DRIVERS&lt;/code&gt; or assign a value to &lt;code&gt;NUM_Z_STEPPER_DRIVERS &lt;/code&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Anet heatbed&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Anet heatbed is notoriously known for fire accidents/burning caused by the underrated connectors (the connector itself is not rated for 10 A!), also the connector should require proper strain relief. The best solution is to solder the heat bed wires directly to the backside of the connector (which is what I did on my old Anet A8 printer, I used multiple pins soldered together, both the outer 2 pins on either side), an example from the web (downside is that they only used a single pin) shows this principle (with solution for cable/soldering stress relief using a tie-wrap):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KRZLm.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Anet heatbed soldered to the back of the connector&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KRZLm.png&quot; alt=&quot;Anet heatbed soldered to the back of the connector&quot; title=&quot;Anet heatbed soldered to the back of the connector&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A final notice for connecting heatbeds is to use proper cables; silicone cables of proper gauge (silicone wires are very flexible, e.g. AWG 14) should be used. Also, never solder the ends and put them under screw connectors on the printer board, instead, use ferrules or proper sized fork terminal connectors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;MOSFET Band Aid&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In case the MOSFETs on your boards are underrated, you can use external MOSFET boards to relieve the shield/printer board from the high currents. Note that the bed requires the most current (about 10 A), for the hotend this will not be required, the current draw is much lower, the onboard MOSFETs are rated for those loads.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EVwaZ.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;MOSFET External module&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EVwaZ.png&quot; alt=&quot;MOSFET External module&quot; title=&quot;MOSFET External module&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:29:41.667" LastActivityDate="2020-04-02T14:17:07.943" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13303" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13306" CreationDate="2020-04-02T06:45:25.030" Score="1" ViewCount="2239" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've just updated my Anet A8 with the blue bed level sensor to Marlin 2.0 .&#xA;Both pressing the Level Bed button on the display or using &lt;code&gt;G29&lt;/code&gt; after &lt;code&gt;G28&lt;/code&gt; in the G-code don't do anything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;code&gt;G28&lt;/code&gt; Homing works fine, but doesn't put the nozzle at the center like it did on Marlin 1.1.x, instead it puts the sensor at the center of the build plate.&#xA;&lt;code&gt;G29&lt;/code&gt; worked fine in my previous Marlin 1.1 config.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These are my config files: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://pastebin.com/kbRgPzM8&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Configuration.h&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://pastebin.com/HQiLLArE&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Configuration_adv.h&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20587" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-04-02T09:02:40.333" LastActivityDate="2020-04-02T14:53:02.450" Title="G29 Bed Level not doing anything on Marlin 2.0" Tags="|marlin|firmware|anet-a8|bed-leveling|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13304" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-04-02T11:54:15.890" Score="1" ViewCount="4603" Body="&lt;p&gt;I need to know if something will burn up beforehand I plug all the circuits:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ramps 1.6+&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Arduino Mega 2560&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;PSU 12&amp;nbsp;V, 15&amp;nbsp;A&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2 &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/bigtreetech/BIGTREETECH-TMC2130-V3.0/blob/master/TMC2130-V3.0RM.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;TMC2130 V3.0&lt;/a&gt; Stepper motor driver&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2 Stepper motors 17hs3401&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Driver Potentiometer&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The driver has a potentiometer to change the voltage that is giving to the motors. Range of Vref values:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Default: 1&amp;nbsp;V (±0.2)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;MAX: 2.4&amp;nbsp;V&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;MIN: 0&amp;nbsp;V&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As one person answered me in &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/12235/is-12v-and-15a-enough-to-make-work-a-ramps-1-6-plus-and-two-stepper-motors&quot;&gt;another question&lt;/a&gt;, I would need 3.2&amp;nbsp;V to make the motor work well (2.&amp;nbsp;&amp;ohm; * 1.3&amp;nbsp;A = 3.2&amp;nbsp;V). As the driver just can offer 2&amp;nbsp;A I assume that the speed will be lower and the driver will be warmer because the motor will drain more current.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Nl0sE.png&quot; alt=&quot;stepper_motor&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Marlin Current Configuration&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a file in the &lt;a href=&quot;https://marlinfw.org/docs/configuration/configuration.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Marlin firmware (&lt;code&gt;Configuration_adv.h&lt;/code&gt;)&lt;/a&gt; where I can set the current that the driver is going to give to the motors. I do this to calculate the current in the motor XCURRENT = 1300&amp;nbsp;mA x sqrt(2) = 1838.5&amp;nbsp;mA and set the value in the file&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;    #if AXIS_IS_TMC(X)&#xA;        #define X_CURRENT       1838.5      // (mA) RMS current. Multiply by 1.414 for peak current. Default 800&#xA;        #define X_CURRENT_HOME  X_CURRENT   // (mA) RMS current for sensorless homing&#xA;        #define X_MICROSTEPS    16          // 0..256&#xA;        #define X_RSENSE        0.11&#xA;        #define X_CHAIN_POS     -1          // &amp;lt;=0 : Not chained. 1 : MCU MOSI connected. 2 : Next in chain, ...&#xA;    #endif&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Possible problems&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I am going to do is to set the drivers potentiometer to the maximum and check what happens. And I will also set the current in the Marlin to 1838.5mA&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As the drivers have less voltage to give to the motors, are my drivers going to burn because they will have to give more current for a long period of time? Or will the stepper motors burn because they won't get enough current or voltage?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also found some other possible problems in &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/11126/20470&quot;&gt;this other answer&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If the current is too high, you lose the linearity of micro-stepping. If the highest current exceeds the maximum, then the highest current micro-stepping positions will collapse on each other.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If you are within the specs of the motors, there are no motor-related problems caused by higher currents.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;But other problems can be caused by increasing the current. The current must be within the capacity of the motor drivers and their heat sink. If the drivers overheat, many will simply shut off, causing the motors to not move when they should, which will appear as misalignment on X, Y, or Y.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/12253/20470&quot;&gt;This other person&lt;/a&gt; also told me&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;you set the power level for the TCM2130 to more than 50&amp;nbsp;% then it will overheat. However, it may only do so when running at low speed. I doubt it will overheat if running at a high speed&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The TMC2130 drivers can tolerate a motor operating current 1.2&amp;nbsp;A (peak 2&amp;nbsp;A). I am setting the maximum to 1838.5&amp;nbsp;mA (that's Okay) and the motor RMS is 1.3&amp;nbsp;A (more than 1.2&amp;nbsp;A). Will these settings overheat the driver?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Question&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will I have any of these problems with the configuration I have set above? Will the TMC2130 overheat?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Update 22 April&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My chip is the &lt;code&gt;TMC2130-LA&lt;/code&gt;. Then, to calculate the &lt;code&gt;X_CURRENT&lt;/code&gt; value:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Imax = 1.2 A            # max current available in the controller                      &#xA;Irms = Imax / 1.41 = 0.851&#xA;X_CURRENT = 90% Irms = 0.851 * 0.9 = 0.766 = 766 mA   # 90% for safety&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20470" LastEditorUserId="20470" LastEditDate="2020-04-22T15:53:06.093" LastActivityDate="2020-04-22T19:30:51.693" Title="I can set the voltage and current of the TMC2130 driver manually. But, in which cases some of the components could burn up?" Tags="|marlin|stepper|stepper-driver|motor|ramps-1.6|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13305" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-04-02T14:34:53.207" Score="1" ViewCount="349" Body="&lt;p&gt;Would it be posible to design something that is as flexible and that can be printed with PLA that would work as a cloth? I did some research and found that there was a company named Electroloom but that didn't make it. I'm not looking for anything fine, just something that would work for wiping&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20591" LastActivityDate="2022-05-24T15:01:20.120" Title="3D Print something as flexible as a cloth with PLA?" Tags="|pla|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13306" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13303" CreationDate="2020-04-02T14:53:02.450" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;From the linked &lt;code&gt;Configuration.h&lt;/code&gt; file the probe X, Y, Z probe offset is set by constant array:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#define NOZZLE_TO_PROBE_OFFSET { 75, -35 , 0 }&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, the sensor is mounted at the right-front (X+, Y- according to the Marlin configuration definition) when facing the printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This implies that the sensor is limited on the right and at the front.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The probing area used to be defined in Marlin 1.1.x in the &lt;code&gt;Configuration.h&lt;/code&gt; file. However, Marlin 2.x requires edge offsets rather than absolute bed size constraints. From the &lt;code&gt;Configuration_adv.h&lt;/code&gt; of linked file, the following probing limits are set:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#if PROBE_SELECTED &amp;amp;&amp;amp; !IS_KINEMATIC&#xA;  #define MIN_PROBE_EDGE_LEFT (75 + MIN_PROBE_EDGE)&#xA;  #define MIN_PROBE_EDGE_RIGHT (X_BED_SIZE  - MIN_PROBE_EDGE)&#xA;  #define MIN_PROBE_EDGE_FRONT (MIN_PROBE_EDGE)&#xA;  #define MIN_PROBE_EDGE_BACK (Y_BED_SIZE -35 - MIN_PROBE_EDGE)&#xA;#endif&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is incorrect, this is what you would do in Marlin 1.1.x. Note that &lt;a href=&quot;/a/8154&quot;&gt;this answer&lt;/a&gt; describes in detail how to set the bed probing limits. You need to specify the offset from the edge on each side, in schematics the probing area is defined as:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PLhmn.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Front-right probe position&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PLhmn.png&quot; alt=&quot;Front-right probe position&quot; title=&quot;Front-right probe position&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From your printer configuration, the probing limits should be set to:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#if PROBE_SELECTED &amp;amp;&amp;amp; !IS_KINEMATIC&#xA;  #define MIN_PROBE_EDGE_LEFT (75 + MIN_PROBE_EDGE)&#xA;  #define MIN_PROBE_EDGE_RIGHT (MIN_PROBE_EDGE)&#xA;  #define MIN_PROBE_EDGE_FRONT (MIN_PROBE_EDGE)&#xA;  #define MIN_PROBE_EDGE_BACK (35 + MIN_PROBE_EDGE) ; Note that 35 is absolute(-35)!&#xA;#endif&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2020-04-02T14:53:02.450" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13307" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-04-02T15:48:24.837" Score="2" ViewCount="196" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am a newbie and I started having printing problems with my Flashforge Hunter.&#xA;I found out that with every calibration the building plate Z offset is getting larger by approx 0.1&amp;nbsp;mm to 0.2&amp;nbsp;mm, currently it is at 1.15&amp;nbsp;mm, first calibration it was 0.1&amp;nbsp;mm than it increased every few prints.&#xA;Really hope this is not a hardware problem. I was searching online for hours and couldn't find anything related to Z offset problem in resin printers.&#xA;Please help, I think the printing problem is because of this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20593" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-04-02T22:05:32.753" LastActivityDate="2020-04-02T22:05:32.753" Title="Z Offset Keeps Changing Flashforge Hunter" Tags="|z-axis|build-plate|flashforge|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13308" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-04-02T16:18:55.030" Score="1" ViewCount="310" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm completely new to 3D-printing. Because of Covid-19, my dad got a Dagoma Magis 3D printer and we are printing protective visors for hospital workers here in France.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We have been given a 3D model that we can simply load on the printer and it works pretty much alone. The 3D-printed part is quite small and very flat so we thought about piling six or seven of them up so we can let the printer work during the night. Then in the morning we would simply have to detach each piece from the pile using pliers. I thought about doing this using Blender (I know nothing about 3D but I've heard Blender is a good tool for that). In fact, I started by posting this question to the Blender stackexchange, which redirected me here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the piece (or two pieces, actually) that I want to pile up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YBMWW.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YBMWW.png&quot; alt=&quot;The provided 3D model for a protective visor for hospital worker.&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My strategy would be to extrude small cylinders to the shape from different points and copy and paste the model several times. The end result would look like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nJz1V.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nJz1V.png&quot; alt=&quot;The end result I want: visors piled up and separated with cylinders&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The yellow bits are the cylinders I want to insert to separate the different parts. So when it is printed, I can simply cut them to separate each visor. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To do this, I think the best way to proceed is the following steps:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Load up the model as I did (imported an STL file)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Add some tiny cylinders (or another shape) on the top of it by extruding them&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Copy and paste the shape and move it along the Z axis to pile them up&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fuse everything together and merge it as a single item&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Export as STL&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Put into 3D printer.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is that a good strategy? How should I proceed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I looked up everywhere at how to extrude a cylinder, or copy-paste a shape and attach it together, but in vain. I'm too clueless about Blender to figure how to do this. I could only manage to make a circle spawn at the origin of the plot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know stackexchange is mostly for professionals and this is a beginner question, but this is a quite peculiar situation. I really want to do it fast, as the quicker we print the visors, the faster the medical staff can have them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, if you recommend using anything else than Blender, I'm up to anything. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20594" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2020-07-13T11:18:53.023" LastActivityDate="2020-07-13T11:18:53.023" Title="Pile up objects and attach them for mass 3D printing" Tags="|3d-models|blender|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13309" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13308" CreationDate="2020-04-02T17:17:55.103" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Don't modify the STL to separate the visors with cylinders. The rest of the part is unsupported, so this will give you lots of support structures or, if omitted, a gigant spaghetti print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Josef Prusa is already printing stacked visors on his print farm overnight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would stack the models of a set of visors in my slicer and for each visor added after the first disable &amp;quot;dropping print to the build plate&amp;quot; and position each consecutive visor one layer height (e.g. 0.2 mm) higher than the last layer of the previous, this way you use the previous visor as a raft for the next.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Below, a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.prusaprinters.org/prints/26595-10x-stack-protective-face-shield-improvement-of-pr&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;reference&lt;/a&gt; of someone who prints 8 parts stacked (4 high) overnight:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wanted to be able to print more than just 2 at a time. Specially over the night when everyone is sleeping. I came up with the idea to stack them on top of each other. Instead of 2 you could print 8 during night. If your printer has smaller build plate and you can only print one its also big help for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After printing jsut simply peel them away and they will break loose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Gap between parts is 0.3 mm .&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:29:41.667" LastActivityDate="2020-04-02T21:59:59.317" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13310" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13313" CreationDate="2020-04-02T18:06:33.543" Score="1" ViewCount="964" Body="&lt;p&gt;So, I have created my own heater block for my 3D printer and mistakenly was using a 12&amp;nbsp;V, 40&amp;nbsp;W heater cartridge thinking that was the standard for my Ender 3, when in fact it is supplied with a 24&amp;nbsp;V, 40&amp;nbsp;W.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may have seen my earlier post about when using autotune the temperature would overshoot by a large margin and returned the following error.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;PID Autotune failed! Temperature too high&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Graph of Overshoot:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NmPFA.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NmPFA.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;PID Autotune fail graph&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was unable to remove this overshoot even through manual tuning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now I have switched from the 12&amp;nbsp;V cartridge to the 24&amp;nbsp;V this problem is resolved, and I can now run the autotune. It follows a much more gradual curve when heating up so doesn't trigger the same error.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I am unsure why this is the case? Can anyone explain why the 12&amp;nbsp;V heater cartridge results in too high of a temperature increase?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems counterintuitive to me as I would have thought the higher voltage cartridge would heat up faster as opposed to vice versa?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19038" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-04-02T22:10:07.320" LastActivityDate="2020-04-03T10:07:28.093" Title="PID autotune fails 'Temp too high' with 12 V heater cartridge but works with 24 V?" Tags="|creality-ender-3|hotend|pid|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13311" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13305" CreationDate="2020-04-02T20:49:54.500" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Maybe you would be better off with TPU or some other type of flexible material...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have been able to print PLA and have it flex quite a bit, but that was an ~0.2mm single layer print, I guess maybe up to 0.3-0.4mm should still be a little bit flexible, but not much. Also since you want it to wipe things, maybe you should look if TPU even has all the properties required for that as Carl mentioned in the comments.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20599" LastEditorUserId="20599" LastEditDate="2020-04-03T19:11:41.450" LastActivityDate="2020-04-03T19:11:41.450" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13312" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13305" CreationDate="2020-04-02T21:06:02.363" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can not 3D print that because there is no nozzle or method for producing filaments of the required size. A few microns at least. You might be able to spin molten pla like cotton candy and it might absorb; but I doubt it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://phys.org/news/2010-05-cotton-candy-machine-tiny-nanofibers.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://phys.org/news/2010-05-cotton-candy-machine-tiny-nanofibers.html&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VFHQd.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VFHQd.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Rotary Jet-Spinning&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12857" LastActivityDate="2020-04-02T21:06:02.363" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13313" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13310" CreationDate="2020-04-02T22:27:33.937" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is all about resistance. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This requires some formulae:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$U = Voltage$&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$I = Current$&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$R = Resistance$&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$P = Power$&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$U = I \times R$&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$P = U \times R$&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$ R = \dfrac{P}{I^2} = \dfrac{U^2}{P} $&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The 12&amp;nbsp;V, 40&amp;nbsp;W cartridge has a resistance of about 3.6&amp;nbsp;&amp;ohm;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you use this cartridge at 24&amp;nbsp;V, this caculates to a power of 160&amp;nbsp;W!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This means that there is an enormous influx of heat that is hard to control, hence the overshoot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-04-03T10:07:28.093" LastActivityDate="2020-04-03T10:07:28.093" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13314" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12129" CreationDate="2020-04-02T22:33:28.303" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently experienced exactly the same problem. For me it was related to an incorrect heater cartridge. I accidentally used a 12&amp;nbsp;V cartridge in a 24&amp;nbsp;V powered system. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The heater element got accidentally mixed up between the higher voltage parts container and I forgot to check the resistance. Inserting the correct voltage heater immediately fixed the problem, but it did require a retune of the hotend.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2020-04-02T22:33:28.303" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13315" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-04-02T22:51:45.437" Score="0" ViewCount="567" Body="&lt;p&gt;When printing a model I pause the print at around 80 % complete to insert a new spool of filament since I'm at the end of my last spool of Polymaker PETG. I used Slic3r Prusa edition to slice the model but I didn't put in for the print to change filament. Then when I did my pause to fix the new filament into the gear on the extruder so it continues to print and feed into the hot end. After fixing the new spool into the extruder and resuming the print it starts too far above the actual part not allowing it to actually continuing the print. Is there anything that I have to change in the G-code that will then resolve this or is this just a slicer error or a print error with the G-code that comes stock with the Ender 3. Or do I have to plug the printer into my computer to then fix the error in the G-code?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20581" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-04-03T06:24:22.900" LastActivityDate="2020-04-03T06:24:22.900" Title="Why on the Ender 3 does the hot end move too far on the Y axis after resuming print due to filament change?" Tags="|creality-ender-3|slic3r|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13317" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-04-03T02:03:28.547" Score="1" ViewCount="194" Body="&lt;p&gt;I set a home offset on my Ender 3 running Marlin firmware so that it starts printing from the corner of a custom build surface which doesn't cover the entire bed:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;M206 X-10 Y-10&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, when I run this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;G1 X0 Y0 Z1&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;the head moved to 1&amp;nbsp;mm above the bottom left most edge of the sticker (good!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I notice when I do relative moves like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;G91&#xA;G1 X-1 Y-1&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The head actually moves in the opposite direction than you would expect, because it's subtracting the offset from the relative coordinates, which I didn't expect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Put another way, the following G-code:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;M206 X-10 Y-10&#xA;G91&#xA;G1 X0 Y0&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Moves the head to x=20 y=20 measured against the original coordinate system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this expected? It seems rather undesirable behaviour to me. Bug?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20603" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-04-03T06:25:57.493" LastActivityDate="2020-04-03T12:51:23.197" Title="Relative move affected by home offset" Tags="|marlin|creality-ender-3|g-code|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13318" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13320" CreationDate="2020-04-03T03:14:04.910" Score="0" ViewCount="16751" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought an Ender 3 recently. Auto-home is on the right front moving away from the end stop. I did reverse the wiring of the X axis motor, it did not work. I had Marlin 2.x uploaded, it didn't work too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Marlin 2.x:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://pastebin.com/gfKKgHin&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Configuration.h&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://pastebin.com/amyfeTQ1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Configuration_adv.h&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The print starts off with a boundary line in the middle and goes off the bed on the right corner to print. Y and Z axes are fine. X axis seems to be bumping into the right front, every time while homing. I had tweaked little bit of Marlin, but I'm a beginner and I don't understand it completely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm using Cura, printer settings, max X=235, max Y=235, max Z=250, origin at the center: unchecked.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This might help...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;// The size of the print bed&#xA;#define X_BED_SIZE 235&#xA;#define Y_BED_SIZE 235&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;#define X_MIN_POS 0&#xA;#define Y_MIN_POS 0&#xA;#define Z_MIN_POS 0&#xA;#define X_MAX_POS X_BED_SIZE&#xA;#define Y_MAX_POS Y_BED_SIZE&#xA;#define Z_MAX_POS 250&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;#define MANUAL_X_HOME_POS 0&#xA;#define MANUAL_Y_HOME_POS 0&#xA;#define MANUAL_Z_HOME_POS 0&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(left this after so many trails)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In Pronterface the mid point X117.5 is at the middle right corner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm thinking the printer is behaving like the origin(0,0) is on the right front, for X at least and it has nothing to do with the slicer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's about centering the prints, but it doesn't print on the bed mostly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Start G-code:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;; Ender 3 Custom Start G-code &#xA;G92 E0 ; Reset Extruder &#xA;G28 ; Home all axes &#xA;G1 Z2.0 F3000 ; Move Z Axis up little to prevent scratching of Heat Bed &#xA;G1 X0.1 Y20 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move to start position &#xA;G1 X0.1 Y200.0 Z0.3 F1500.0 E15 ; Draw the first line &#xA;G1 X0.4 Y200.0 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move to side a little &#xA;G1 X0.4 Y20 Z0.3 F1500.0 E30 ; Draw the second line &#xA;G92 E0 ; Reset Extruder &#xA;G1 Z2.0 F3000 ; Move Z Axis up little to prevent scratching of Heat Bed &#xA;G1 X5 Y20 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move over to prevent blob squish&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;End G-code:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;G91 ;Relative positioning &#xA;G1 E-2 F2700 ;Retract a bit &#xA;G1 E-2 Z0.2 F2400 ;Retract and raise Z &#xA;G1 X5 Y5 F3000 ;Wipe out &#xA;G1 Z10 ;Raise Z more &#xA;G90 ;Absolute positionning &#xA;G1 X0 Y{machine_depth} ;Present print &#xA;M106 S0 ;Turn-off fan &#xA;M104 S0 ;Turn-off hotend &#xA;M140 S0 ;Turn-off bed &#xA;M84 X Y E ;Disable all steppers but Z&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20604" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2024-02-03T16:07:34.747" LastActivityDate="2024-02-03T16:14:17.923" Title="Creality Ender 3 X axis homing issue" Tags="|homing|x-axis|print-axis-offset|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13319" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13317" CreationDate="2020-04-03T07:13:07.257" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes this is expected, with &lt;code&gt;M206&lt;/code&gt; you set a relative offset!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The values specified are added to the endstop position when the axes are referenced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;reference: &lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#M206:_Offset_axes&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;G-code wiki &lt;code&gt;M206&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So when you issue the command &lt;code&gt;M206 X-10 Y-10&lt;/code&gt; twice (or already have an offset set), the offset is 20, 20 (X, Y) and when instructed to move &quot;nothing&quot; (&lt;code&gt;G1 X0 Y0&lt;/code&gt;) the printer moves &quot;nothing&quot; &lt;strong&gt;from&lt;/strong&gt; (&lt;em&gt;thus&lt;/em&gt; &lt;strong&gt;to&lt;/strong&gt;!) the newly defined origin at (20, 20). Basically it is relative movement from the set coordinate system, not the position of the carriage. In effect you have changed the reference frame, the printer just responds to that action.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-04-03T12:51:23.197" LastActivityDate="2020-04-03T12:51:23.197" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13320" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13318" CreationDate="2020-04-03T09:04:47.110" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The issues you are facing can be caused typically by a defective X-axis endstop, an inverted logic of the X-axis endstop or a defective printer controller board. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the X-axis endstop is reporting being triggered, it will not move. After &quot;homing&quot; it will only go to the right of the &quot;home position&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There a couple of things to troubleshoot the X-axis endstop working:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Command an &lt;code&gt;M119&lt;/code&gt; command over a printer console or connect your printer over USB to a printer software application like PronterFace, OctoPrint, Repetier-Host, etc. and look at the reported endstop triggers; these should be triggered when the endstops are pressed. Issue the &lt;code&gt;M119&lt;/code&gt; when you press the X endstop manually, if it reports &quot;open&quot; for X you need to invert the logic. If still triggered, the endstop is broken.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Swap the X-endstop for a any other endstop (Y or Z); then you can also check if the printer board is broken!&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it is the case to invert the polarity of the endstop, in the Marlin firmware Configuration.h, look up:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;// Mechanical endstop with COM to ground and NC to Signal uses &quot;false&quot; here (most common setup).&#xA;#define X_MIN_ENDSTOP_INVERTING false // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Change the boolean value of the endstop you'd like to invert.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-04-03T09:35:57.657" LastActivityDate="2020-04-03T09:35:57.657" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13321" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-04-03T09:06:05.493" Score="0" ViewCount="338" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a problem with all versions of FlashPrint on Linux (Linux Debian 5.4.0-4-amd64 #1 SMP Debian 5.4.19-1 (2020-02-13) x86_64 GNU/Linux).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried to install versions from 3.28 to the latest 4.2, and it's always the same problem, when I try to preview the print, I see a purple glitch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think it's more a dependency problem, but if someone car help me figuring this out, it will be great.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PjSIz.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PjSIz.png&quot; alt=&quot;Before&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/g27Ov.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/g27Ov.png&quot; alt=&quot;After&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have no error when I launch in a console, and here is the dependency :&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;ldd FlashPrint &#xA;linux-vdso.so.1 (0x00007fff1d3ea000)&#xA;libGLU.so.1 =&amp;gt; /usr/lib/x86_64-linux-gnu/libGLU.so.1 (0x00007f57cb19f000)&#xA;librt.so.1 =&amp;gt; /lib/x86_64-linux-gnu/librt.so.1 (0x00007f57cb194000)&#xA;libudev.so.1 =&amp;gt; /lib/x86_64-linux-gnu/libudev.so.1 (0x00007f57cb169000)&#xA;libQt5OpenGL.so.5 =&amp;gt; /usr/lib/x86_64-linux-gnu/libQt5OpenGL.so.5 (0x00007f57cb10f000)&#xA;libQt5Widgets.so.5 =&amp;gt; /usr/lib/x86_64-linux-gnu/libQt5Widgets.so.5 (0x00007f57caa8a000)&#xA;libQt5Gui.so.5 =&amp;gt; /usr/lib/x86_64-linux-gnu/libQt5Gui.so.5 (0x00007f57ca4ae000)&#xA;libQt5Network.so.5 =&amp;gt; /usr/lib/x86_64-linux-gnu/libQt5Network.so.5 (0x00007f57ca2f1000)&#xA;libQt5Xml.so.5 =&amp;gt; /usr/lib/x86_64-linux-gnu/libQt5Xml.so.5 (0x00007f57ca2b0000)&#xA;libQt5Core.so.5 =&amp;gt; /usr/lib/x86_64-linux-gnu/libQt5Core.so.5 (0x00007f57c9d76000)&#xA;libGL.so.1 =&amp;gt; /usr/lib/x86_64-linux-gnu/libGL.so.1 (0x00007f57c9cef000)&#xA;libpthread.so.0 =&amp;gt; /lib/x86_64-linux-gnu/libpthread.so.0 (0x00007f57c9cce000)&#xA;libm.so.6 =&amp;gt; /lib/x86_64-linux-gnu/libm.so.6 (0x00007f57c9b89000)&#xA;libgcc_s.so.1 =&amp;gt; /lib/x86_64-linux-gnu/libgcc_s.so.1 (0x00007f57c9b6d000)&#xA;libc.so.6 =&amp;gt; /lib/x86_64-linux-gnu/libc.so.6 (0x00007f57c99aa000)&#xA;/lib64/ld-linux-x86-64.so.2 (0x00007f57cb25c000)&#xA;libstdc++.so.6 =&amp;gt; /usr/lib/x86_64-linux-gnu/libstdc++.so.6 (0x00007f57c97dd000)&#xA;libpng16.so.16 =&amp;gt; /usr/lib/x86_64-linux-gnu/libpng16.so.16 (0x00007f57c97a4000)&#xA;libz.so.1 =&amp;gt; /lib/x86_64-linux-gnu/libz.so.1 (0x00007f57c9787000)&#xA;libharfbuzz.so.0 =&amp;gt; /usr/lib/x86_64-linux-gnu/libharfbuzz.so.0 (0x00007f57c9682000)&#xA;libdl.so.2 =&amp;gt; /lib/x86_64-linux-gnu/libdl.so.2 (0x00007f57c967b000)&#xA;libicui18n.so.63 =&amp;gt; /usr/lib/x86_64-linux-gnu/libicui18n.so.63 (0x00007f57c93a4000)&#xA;libicuuc.so.63 =&amp;gt; /usr/lib/x86_64-linux-gnu/libicuuc.so.63 (0x00007f57c91d3000)&#xA;libpcre2-16.so.0 =&amp;gt; /usr/lib/x86_64-linux-gnu/libpcre2-16.so.0 (0x00007f57c9150000)&#xA;libdouble-conversion.so.3 =&amp;gt; /usr/lib/x86_64-linux-gnu/libdouble-conversion.so.3 (0x00007f57c9139000)&#xA;libglib-2.0.so.0 =&amp;gt; /usr/lib/x86_64-linux-gnu/libglib-2.0.so.0 (0x00007f57c9010000)&#xA;libGLdispatch.so.0 =&amp;gt; /usr/lib/x86_64-linux-gnu/libGLdispatch.so.0 (0x00007f57c8f58000)&#xA;libGLX.so.0 =&amp;gt; /usr/lib/x86_64-linux-gnu/libGLX.so.0 (0x00007f57c8f24000)&#xA;libfreetype.so.6 =&amp;gt; /usr/lib/x86_64-linux-gnu/libfreetype.so.6 (0x00007f57c8e65000)&#xA;libgraphite2.so.3 =&amp;gt; /usr/lib/x86_64-linux-gnu/libgraphite2.so.3 (0x00007f57c8e39000)&#xA;libicudata.so.63 =&amp;gt; /usr/lib/x86_64-linux-gnu/libicudata.so.63 (0x00007f57c7448000)&#xA;libpcre.so.3 =&amp;gt; /lib/x86_64-linux-gnu/libpcre.so.3 (0x00007f57c73d2000)&#xA;libX11.so.6 =&amp;gt; /usr/lib/x86_64-linux-gnu/libX11.so.6 (0x00007f57c7290000)&#xA;libxcb.so.1 =&amp;gt; /usr/lib/x86_64-linux-gnu/libxcb.so.1 (0x00007f57c7266000)&#xA;libXau.so.6 =&amp;gt; /usr/lib/x86_64-linux-gnu/libXau.so.6 (0x00007f57c7062000)&#xA;libXdmcp.so.6 =&amp;gt; /usr/lib/x86_64-linux-gnu/libXdmcp.so.6 (0x00007f57c6e5c000)&#xA;libbsd.so.0 =&amp;gt; /usr/lib/x86_64-linux-gnu/libbsd.so.0 (0x00007f57c6e40000)&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20609" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-05-11T05:51:42.037" LastActivityDate="2024-02-20T20:09:36.160" Title="FlashPrint visual glitch on Linux (Debian testing)" Tags="|linux|flashprint|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13322" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-04-03T10:07:32.847" Score="1" ViewCount="44" Body="&lt;p&gt;since some prints my printer (Geeetech i3) prints less and less filament over time:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nkIMS.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nkIMS.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;less plastic&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Notice, that the beginning is printed well:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eQehw.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eQehw.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;My settings for this print (Slic3r):&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;; avoid_crossing_perimeters = 0&#xA;; bed_shape = 0x0,200x0,200x200,0x200&#xA;; bed_temperature = 60&#xA;; before_layer_gcode = &#xA;; between_objects_gcode = &#xA;; bridge_acceleration = 0&#xA;; bridge_fan_speed = 100&#xA;; brim_connections_width = 0&#xA;; brim_width = 0&#xA;; complete_objects = 0&#xA;; cooling = 1&#xA;; default_acceleration = 0&#xA;; disable_fan_first_layers = 3&#xA;; duplicate_distance = 6&#xA;; end_filament_gcode = &amp;quot;; Filament-specific end gcode \n;END gcode for filament\n&amp;quot;&#xA;; end_gcode = M104 S0 ; turn off temperature\nG28 X0  ; home X axis\nM84     ; disable motors\n&#xA;; extruder_clearance_height = 20&#xA;; extruder_clearance_radius = 20&#xA;; extruder_offset = 0x0&#xA;; extrusion_axis = E&#xA;; extrusion_multiplier = 1&#xA;; fan_always_on = 0&#xA;; fan_below_layer_time = 60&#xA;; filament_colour = #FFFFFF&#xA;; filament_cost = 19.99&#xA;; filament_density = 0.945&#xA;; filament_diameter = 1.75&#xA;; filament_max_volumetric_speed = 0&#xA;; filament_notes = &amp;quot;&amp;quot;&#xA;; first_layer_acceleration = 0&#xA;; first_layer_bed_temperature = 60&#xA;; first_layer_extrusion_width = 0.4&#xA;; first_layer_speed = 30&#xA;; first_layer_temperature = 220&#xA;; gcode_arcs = 0&#xA;; gcode_comments = 0&#xA;; gcode_flavor = reprap&#xA;; has_heatbed = 1&#xA;; infill_acceleration = 0&#xA;; infill_first = 0&#xA;; interior_brim_width = 0&#xA;; layer_gcode = &#xA;; max_fan_speed = 100&#xA;; max_layer_height = 0.4&#xA;; max_print_speed = 80&#xA;; max_volumetric_speed = 0&#xA;; min_fan_speed = 35&#xA;; min_layer_height = 0.15&#xA;; min_print_speed = 10&#xA;; min_skirt_length = 0&#xA;; notes = &#xA;; nozzle_diameter = 0.4&#xA;; only_retract_when_crossing_perimeters = 1&#xA;; ooze_prevention = 0&#xA;; output_filename_format = [input_filename_base].gcode&#xA;; perimeter_acceleration = 0&#xA;; post_process = &#xA;; pressure_advance = 0&#xA;; printer_notes = &#xA;; resolution = 0&#xA;; retract_before_travel = 2&#xA;; retract_layer_change = 0&#xA;; retract_length = 2&#xA;; retract_length_toolchange = 10&#xA;; retract_lift = 0&#xA;; retract_lift_above = 0&#xA;; retract_lift_below = 0&#xA;; retract_restart_extra = 0&#xA;; retract_restart_extra_toolchange = 0&#xA;; retract_speed = 40&#xA;; skirt_distance = 5&#xA;; skirt_height = 1&#xA;; skirts = 2&#xA;; slowdown_below_layer_time = 5&#xA;; spiral_vase = 0&#xA;; standby_temperature_delta = -5&#xA;; start_filament_gcode = &amp;quot;; Filament gcode\n&amp;quot;&#xA;; start_gcode = G28 ; home all axes\nG1 Z5 F5000 ; lift nozzle\n&#xA;; temperature = 220&#xA;; threads = 4&#xA;; toolchange_gcode = &#xA;; travel_speed = 120&#xA;; use_firmware_retraction = 0&#xA;; use_relative_e_distances = 0&#xA;; use_set_and_wait_bed = 0&#xA;; use_set_and_wait_extruder = 0&#xA;; use_volumetric_e = 0&#xA;; vibration_limit = 0&#xA;; wipe = 0&#xA;; z_offset = 0&#xA;; z_steps_per_mm = 0&#xA;; adaptive_slicing = 0&#xA;; adaptive_slicing_quality = 75%&#xA;; dont_support_bridges = 0&#xA;; extrusion_width = 0.4&#xA;; first_layer_height = 0.2&#xA;; infill_only_where_needed = 0&#xA;; interface_shells = 0&#xA;; layer_height = 0.15&#xA;; match_horizontal_surfaces = 0&#xA;; raft_layers = 0&#xA;; regions_overlap = 0&#xA;; seam_position = aligned&#xA;; sequential_print_priority = 0&#xA;; support_material = 0&#xA;; support_material_angle = 0&#xA;; support_material_buildplate_only = 0&#xA;; support_material_contact_distance = 0.2&#xA;; support_material_enforce_layers = 0&#xA;; support_material_extruder = 1&#xA;; support_material_extrusion_width = 0.4&#xA;; support_material_interface_extruder = 1&#xA;; support_material_interface_extrusion_width = 0.4&#xA;; support_material_interface_layers = 3&#xA;; support_material_interface_spacing = 0&#xA;; support_material_interface_speed = 100%&#xA;; support_material_max_layers = 0&#xA;; support_material_pattern = pillars&#xA;; support_material_spacing = 2.5&#xA;; support_material_speed = 60&#xA;; support_material_threshold = 60%&#xA;; xy_size_compensation = 0&#xA;; bottom_infill_pattern = rectilinear&#xA;; bottom_solid_layers = 3&#xA;; bridge_flow_ratio = 1&#xA;; bridge_speed = 60&#xA;; external_perimeter_extrusion_width = 0.6&#xA;; external_perimeter_speed = 50%&#xA;; external_perimeters_first = 0&#xA;; extra_perimeters = 1&#xA;; fill_angle = 45&#xA;; fill_density = 25%&#xA;; fill_gaps = 1&#xA;; fill_pattern = honeycomb&#xA;; gap_fill_speed = 20&#xA;; infill_every_layers = 1&#xA;; infill_extruder = 1&#xA;; infill_extrusion_width = 0.4&#xA;; infill_overlap = 55%&#xA;; infill_speed = 80&#xA;; overhangs = 1&#xA;; perimeter_extruder = 1&#xA;; perimeter_extrusion_width = 0.4&#xA;; perimeter_speed = 60&#xA;; perimeters = 1&#xA;; small_perimeter_speed = 15&#xA;; solid_infill_below_area = 5&#xA;; solid_infill_every_layers = 0&#xA;; solid_infill_extruder = 1&#xA;; solid_infill_extrusion_width = 0.4&#xA;; solid_infill_speed = 30&#xA;; thin_walls = 1&#xA;; top_infill_extrusion_width = 0.4&#xA;; top_infill_pattern = rectilinear&#xA;; top_solid_infill_speed = 15&#xA;; top_solid_layers = 3&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've tried other filaments (PLA) and higher temperatures (190-240). I also cleaned the nozzle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is this problem called and how to fix it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20595" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:29:41.667" LastActivityDate="2020-04-03T12:34:01.257" Title="Less filament from the half to the end" Tags="|print-quality|filament|slic3r|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13323" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13322" CreationDate="2020-04-03T12:34:01.257" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your filament diameter in the slicer is okay, so big chance this is caused by something different:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;heat creep, or &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a mechanical issue of the extruder; e.g. grub screw is loose, too less tension on the extruder roller, etc. or&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;lots of friction on the spool can also cause this, or&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;your nozzle is partly clogged and requires a thorough cleaning of the nozzle assembly. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The search term you're looking for is &quot;under extrusion&quot;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2020-04-03T12:34:01.257" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13324" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-04-03T13:05:30.193" Score="1" ViewCount="169" Body="&lt;p&gt;The default displayed and logged resolution of the tool temperature is to 1 decimal place. However, I noticed during autotuning the temperature is recorded to 2 decimal places.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it possible to display/log the temperature to 2 decimal places at all times? And if so, how?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm using an Ender 3 with Marlin firmware controlled through Octoprint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19038" LastActivityDate="2020-04-03T13:05:30.193" Title="Display/log tool temperature to higher resolution?" Tags="|marlin|octoprint|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13328" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-04-03T16:15:14.253" Score="3" ViewCount="909" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Delta printer with Bowden extruder and all-metal hotend. When I start printing, the hotend gets often jammed. It seems to be independent of the print I am currently doing. Retraction does not affect it either (it happened even with 0&amp;nbsp;mm retraction).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, despite occurring mostly at the start of the print, it also occasionally happens mid-print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can resolve the issue by pulling the filament out and after few seconds putting it back in only for it to happen a couple lines afterwards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At this point it seems to me that heat creep is most likely, in spite of having a 40x40&amp;nbsp;mm fan blowing across the fins of the heatsink.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this heat creep? If not, what could be the cause?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16997" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-04-03T16:26:16.067" LastActivityDate="2020-04-03T16:26:16.067" Title="How is heat creep characterized?" Tags="|hotend|heat-management|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13329" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13328" CreationDate="2020-04-03T16:25:17.550" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Constant jamming sounds like heat creep. It could be that:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The fan might not be powerful enough. Get a better fan&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You're printing too slowly. Try increasing the print speed.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The temp might be too hot on the hot end. Lower printing temp.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The heater might be too close to the radiator. Adjust the hot end so that there is a max amount of space between them.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The firmware could be letting the hot end get too hot. With the cooling fan on, do a PID tune.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The filament might be getting stuck in the throat. Try lube, especially if you are using an all metal hot end.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Heat from the bed might be affecting the cooling fan's ability to cool the hot end. Try lowing the heated bed's temp.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12857" LastActivityDate="2020-04-03T16:25:17.550" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13330" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13334" CreationDate="2020-04-03T16:52:31.170" Score="1" ViewCount="1542" Body="&lt;p&gt;My printer is calibrated for a certain clearance from the heated bed, which is chosen based on PLA.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would like to try to increase it for the first layer for PETG, so that adhesion is reduced. The printer has M5 screws with 4000 steps/mm, so the resolution clearly allows that. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't want to modify the printer, I would like a G-Code or another option that I can apply in Prusa slicer in association with the specific filament when desired. I don't want to change the flow rate of the first layer, only the &quot;zero&quot; distance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I do that?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2338" LastEditorUserId="2338" LastEditDate="2020-06-08T19:31:12.077" LastActivityDate="2020-06-09T15:22:10.723" Title="How can I add an offset to the first layer to increase clearance?" Tags="|g-code|adhesion|petg|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13331" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13348" CreationDate="2020-04-03T21:17:40.410" Score="3" ViewCount="1914" Body="&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Printer: Prusa i3 clone / Anet A8&#xA;Arduino IDE: Ver 1.8.12&#xA;Firmware: Marlin-2.0.2&#xA;anet-board-master: 1.5.6 (from hardware/anet/avr/platform.txt 2018-03-02)&#xA;Configurations-relese: 2.0.5 (Configuration.h, -adv.h)&#xA;OS: Windows 10&#xA;Board selection: Anet V1.0&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I successfully upgraded the stock firmware to a version with bootloader, calibrated and had it running. I started to add features one at a time, recompile and upload. I managed to break it while trying to improve the LCD button debounce which I increased to 25 ms:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#if HAS_ADC_BUTTONS&#xA;  #define ADC_BUTTON_DEBOUNCE_DELAY 16  // (ms) Increase if buttons bounce or repeat too fast&#xA;#endif&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The compile worked, transferred, showed the splash screen and went blank. This repeated on power-cycle. I reversed the change but was unable to restore operation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have tried reinstalling Arduino IDE, copying the folders in again and compiling with the default configurations. I'm getting lots of errors and the compiler exits with:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;C:\Users\username\AppData\Local\Temp\arduino_build_938465\sketch\src\MarlinCore.cpp:470:11: note: in expansion of macro 'disable_Z'&#xA;       disable_Z();&#xA;       ^~~~~~~~~&#xA;exit status 1&#xA;Error compiling for board Anet V1.0.&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can anyone give me some guidance on how to get going again?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20598" LastActivityDate="2020-04-05T12:59:59.573" Title="Unable to compile Marlin for Anet A8" Tags="|marlin|anet-a8|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13332" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8615" CreationDate="2020-04-04T01:48:25.067" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ok... So I found a much simpler answer to this. In my device manager I just right clicked the device (Com port 4, the one that wasn't working for me) and allowed windows to update the drivers from the web.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This fixed my issue. Just wanted to put it out there in case anyone else was struggling&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20616" LastActivityDate="2020-04-04T01:48:25.067" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13334" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13330" CreationDate="2020-04-04T06:57:45.230" Score="1" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Placeholders&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know if you are familiar with the &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/prusa3d/PrusaSlicer/wiki/Slic3r-placeholders-(a-copy-of-the-mauk.cc-page)&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;concept of placeholders&lt;/a&gt;? PrusSlicer is a derivative of Slic3r which uses this concept to insert &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/prusa3d/PrusaSlicer/wiki/Slic3r-Prusa-Edition-Macro-Language&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;placeholders&lt;/a&gt; (sort of constants, with the possibility to do arithmetic) into your G-code (e.g. start or end codes) which are evaluated just before the slicer generates the final G-code upon slicing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately, although there is a constant for the filament type (&lt;code&gt;filament_type&lt;/code&gt;), you cannot use a conditional expression as this does not work on string comparison (which should work with regular expressions...), but with some imagination you can fabricate a way to get past this problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;E.g.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;{if printer_notes=~/.*PRINTER_VENDOR_PRUSA3D.*/};Printer is Prusa{endif}&#xA;M117 [filament_type]&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;evaluates fine, but&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;code&gt;{if filament_type=~/.*PLA.*/};Filament type is PLA{endif}&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;does not evaluate fine...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GtBKe.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GtBKe.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Solving this using placeholders, the printing temperatures for PLA and PETG are different, so in a conditional statement of the &lt;code&gt;first_layer_temperature&lt;/code&gt; you could add an additional offset to the code at the end of the start G-code.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Start G-code&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A place to do this is the filament dependent start G-code section:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JLhUL.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JLhUL.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can always edit this start G-code to include a manually set offset by moving the printer to a certainly height:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;code&gt;G1 Z0.15&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and then redefining the zero level&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;code&gt;G92 Z0&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Printer Z-offset&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that a &lt;code&gt;z_offset&lt;/code&gt; constant exists, so it is configurable in the graphical interface, if so, than I assume this fixes your problem instantly as the offset is directly applied in the final G-code. The &lt;code&gt;z-offset&lt;/code&gt; option is part of the &amp;quot;printer settings&amp;quot; interface. This extra offset is added to the initial layer height movement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/romz3.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/romz3.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:29:41.667" LastActivityDate="2020-04-07T13:27:30.880" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13337" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13338" CreationDate="2020-04-04T11:25:14.633" Score="1" ViewCount="90" Body="&lt;p&gt;While I was having fun with my ender I burn out &lt;strong&gt;UP1 Chip&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know &lt;strong&gt;which chip is that&lt;/strong&gt; (I can't see because of burnt) and &lt;strong&gt;where can I order it&lt;/strong&gt;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Image: &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zVuxP.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Damaged chip&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20557" LastActivityDate="2020-04-04T15:07:30.077" Title="Creality v1.1.5 board replacement UP1 Chip" Tags="|creality-ender-3|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13338" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13337" CreationDate="2020-04-04T15:07:30.077" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's an &lt;strong&gt;MP1584&lt;/strong&gt; chip. &#xA;Guys on Reddit helped me out. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.aliexpress.com/i/32958513528.html?spm=2114.search0301.3.14.220749f5Wpx4xL&amp;amp;ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_0,searchweb201603_0,ppcSwitch_0&amp;amp;algo_pvid=a486b56c-998e-48c6-bcf3-3800d4adfaee&amp;amp;algo_expid=a486b56c-998e-48c6-bcf3-3800d4adfaee-2&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;link&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20557" LastActivityDate="2020-04-04T15:07:30.077" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13339" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-04-04T15:18:31.433" Score="3" ViewCount="5520" Body="&lt;p&gt;I got my 3D printer from Creality 1 day ago. My dog off the SD card came perfectly, Benchy was also printed almost flawlessly. I used standard Benchy settings on all my prints.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now I tried making a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4225667&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;mask&lt;/a&gt; and it failed mid-print. When I saw it failing I stopped the print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What do you guys think is the cause of this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I printed with the following settings:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I use PLA 50 °C bed and 200 °C hot end&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Resolution: 0.20 mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Infill: 20 %&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;3 walls with a line width of 0.4 mm each&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;50 mm/s first time i printed it and 40 mm/s second time.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Combing OFF&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Retraction enabled&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Retraction distance:6 mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;25 mm/s all retraction speeds&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;retraction extra prime amount 0&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;retraction minimum travel 1.5&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;maximum retraction count 100&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rDFmd.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rDFmd.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;print&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BnBGl.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BnBGl.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;benchy&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I printed the mask again. this time I changed Z Seam alignment in Cura from user specified to random. It improved it a bit but it was not a successful print.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/x994N.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/x994N.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;second mask&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20619" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-09-09T06:29:31.180" LastActivityDate="2021-09-09T06:29:31.180" Title="Ender 5 Pro print quality issue" Tags="|print-quality|extrusion|underextrusion|creality-ender-5|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13340" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-04-04T16:27:38.423" Score="2" ViewCount="140" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm using Prusa i3 MK3S and every time I want to create a durable, impact resistant part, I use ABS/Nylon. The problem is, however, that when I print something small (of less than 1&amp;nbsp;cm width for ABS, less than 2.5&amp;nbsp;cm for Nylon), the print deforms, shrinks, loses shape as shown on the image (the top). Also, the quality is far below my expectations (I am using a kit, but still I get better print quality on my Ender 3). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gvnSS.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gvnSS.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My settings:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Nozzle 250&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bed 115&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fan turned off and 50&amp;nbsp;% for bridges&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Layer Height 0.15&amp;nbsp;mm-0.3&amp;nbsp;mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The settings are the same for Nylon and ABS. I am using a textured sheet. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know that enabling cooling/decreasing the temperature would partially fix this problem, but that would drastically decrease the strength of my parts. I am not using normal ABS, the name of my filament is ABS-702, designed for printers without an enclosure. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20621" LastEditorUserId="20621" LastEditDate="2020-04-04T22:31:51.813" LastActivityDate="2020-04-04T22:31:51.813" Title="Prusa MK3S Nylon&amp;ABS print failures" Tags="|print-quality|prusa-i3|3d-models|abs|nylon|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13341" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11963" CreationDate="2020-04-04T20:41:08.460" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I too had this problem recently. I followed all the many hundreds of steps people suggested and nothing helped. I unistalled Cura 4.4 restarted my computer, installed Cura 4.1 problem fixed. Cura was the problem in my case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20630" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-04-04T21:34:11.857" LastActivityDate="2020-04-04T21:34:11.857" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13344" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-04-05T10:04:44.620" Score="1" ViewCount="59" Body="&lt;p&gt;Polyjet uses UV light to cure UV curable plastic material. &#xA;I was wondering as to why laser light can't be used to soften/melt just any plastic material instead of using UV light to cure only UV curable plastic materials? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20073" LastActivityDate="2020-05-05T12:04:05.400" Title="Why laser is not used to melt/soften material in polyjet?" Tags="|print-material|material|polyjet-printer|plastic|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13345" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13344" CreationDate="2020-04-05T11:28:34.783" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The question in the title references a specific printer technology, while the question in the body of the post is more generic and is the one being answered here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are 3D printers which use lasers to cure liquid resin in a manner similar to MSLA 3D printers. The vat of resin sits atop a transparent panel, under which a laser assembly resides. The computer directs the laser over the surface of the panel in a manner associated with each layer of the print. Once the layer is completed, the bed is lifted, peeling the print from the base of the vat and then lowered again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are some printers which apply the laser to the surface of the liquid but the results are the same. The resin is photosensitive and cures when the laser is applied.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally, there are SLS 3D printers. Selective Laser Sintering uses a laser applied to the surface of a nylon powder (one example) which sinters the nylon causing it to bond to adjacent particles. When a layer is completed, the bed of powder is lowered and another layer of powder is applied. The laser again &quot;draws&quot; the layer in the powder and the process continues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This method requires compensation for shrinking, as the nylon powder changes dimensions as it is melted. The bed is also pre-heated prior to printing in order to reduce the amount of energy required by the laser to sinter the design.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastActivityDate="2020-04-05T11:28:34.783" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13346" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2020-04-05T12:50:46.967" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Polyjet printing is a method whereby very fine layers of liquid polymer is deposited, and cured with ultraviolet light. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is similar to resin-based printing since both use UV-sensitive liquid, but differs in that the liquid is applied only to parts in the final model.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3864" LastEditorUserId="3864" LastEditDate="2020-04-05T20:41:01.700" LastActivityDate="2020-04-05T20:41:01.700" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13347" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2020-04-05T12:50:46.967" Score="0" Body="Use this tag for questions regarding polyjet printing technology and polyjet printers." OwnerUserId="3864" LastEditorUserId="3864" LastEditDate="2020-04-05T20:40:39.570" LastActivityDate="2020-04-05T20:40:39.570" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13348" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13331" CreationDate="2020-04-05T12:54:27.330" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm almost back in business.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I reinstalled the bootloader.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I switched from Arduino IDE to Visual Studio Code to compile using Crosslink's &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=38PkynA1uGI&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Anet A8 (Plus) Marlin 2.0 Installation Upgrade&lt;/a&gt; YouTube tutorial.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;1. Bootloader&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm using a Chinese USBasp and there are some confusing tutorials on the web which require upgrading the USBasp firmware using another USBasp or Arduino. I avoided this as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I used the Arduino IDE to open the Example | Blink.ino.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tools | Board: &quot;Anet V1.0 (Optiboot)&quot;. (Opti in optiboot means &quot;optimised&quot; so the bootloader will take up less space allowing you to use more options in your Marlin configuration.h.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tools | Programmer: &quot;USBasp&quot;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tools | Burn Booloader. (This will generate the hex file to be transferred to the Anet board. Save it somewhere you will find it.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Download and install AVRDUDESS if you haven't got it. I used Ver. 2.11. Connect the USBasp to the Anet board and your computer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Start AVRDUDESS.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Port: usb.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Baud rate: 250000.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hit the Detect button and it should identify your Anet board.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hit the Flash [...] button and select the &lt;strong&gt;Blink.ino.with_bootloader.sanguino.hex&lt;/strong&gt; file.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hit the &lt;strong&gt;Program&lt;/strong&gt; button. It should all work.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You now have an Anet board with the OptiBootLoader installed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now follow Crosslink's video tutorial above using the normal USB connection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20598" LastEditorUserId="20598" LastEditDate="2020-04-05T12:59:59.573" LastActivityDate="2020-04-05T12:59:59.573" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13349" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-04-06T00:09:49.673" Score="2" ViewCount="547" Body="&lt;p&gt;Specifically using stainless steel nozzles, but I guess it's worth knowing about brass too. Is there any reason to be concerned about dimensional accuracy of the nozzle or anything like that as a result of repeated heating with a butane torch? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12706" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-04-06T05:40:16.543" LastActivityDate="2020-04-09T10:14:29.123" Title="Is there any reason not to clean nozzles with fire?" Tags="|nozzle|cleaning|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13351" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13349" CreationDate="2020-04-06T04:00:39.960" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you carbonize the filament or other particles that are clogging the nozzle, then you will never get them clean. In my experience, it's not worth cleaning the nozzle with anything other than cleaning filament. If that doesn't work then change the nozzle. Heating the metal nozzle with a torch will change the temper of the material. I used to try cleaning with a soldering iron; which was to no avail.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Purchase a dozen brass nozzles and save your self the headache. Either that or a good quality set of stainless steel ones. They are easier to clean with the cleaning filament and aren't ablated by the filament as quickly, allowing for better dimensional accuracy over multiple prints.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2OhXB.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.amazon.com/eSUN-CLEANING-Filament-Printers-Cleaning/dp/B00MVIYNFW/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2OhXB.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2OhXB.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;eSun Cleaning Filament&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12857" LastEditorUserId="12857" LastEditDate="2020-04-08T01:30:48.973" LastActivityDate="2020-04-08T01:30:48.973" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13352" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-04-06T05:31:11.467" Score="0" ViewCount="285" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I export my SketchUp STL model to Cura it looks good in solid mode but in the layers mode some holes are filled up.&#xA;To find the reason why, I broke down the original model by deleting the parts that come out ok, and ended up with a block 50x100 mm with a hole 30x20 mm in it. &#xA;This simple stucture looks manifold, no double lines etc, and does not have red parts in Cura xray.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cura shows the model as expected, but in layers mode the hole is filled up. I spent many hours to find out, but so far my only solution is to start over again drawing a complete new model and even then this happens again. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm using SketchUp 2019, Cura 4, Meshlab 2020&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What goes wrong here? How can I repair this with Meshlab? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;STL file available on request.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UH5yx.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UH5yx.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20646" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-04-06T21:04:11.520" LastActivityDate="2020-04-06T21:04:11.520" Title="Sketchup designed &quot;Block with hole&quot; printed solid in Cura" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|3d-models|stl|sketchup|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13353" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13356" CreationDate="2020-04-06T05:40:58.337" Score="1" ViewCount="1848" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've noticed an interesting behavior on my Ender 3 with SKR Mini E3 mainboard and Marlin 2.0.x bugfix firmware. (&lt;em&gt;otherwise, all other hardware is entirely stock&lt;/em&gt;) After the hotend/bed are commanded to cool down, e.g. after a print completes, I have to wait until after they both cool down to ambient before commanding another temperature setpoint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I don't do this, the printer most often triggers thermal runaway protection. (&lt;em&gt;usually citing the extruder, but also sometimes the bed&lt;/em&gt;) I think this might be due to the thermal inertia in the material between the heater and thermistors, causing a 5-10 second delay in sensed temperature rise. I don't see any reason why thermal runaway should trigger; the Octoprint temperature graph looks completely normal, with no perceptible anomalies.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there some way to tune parameters for thermal runaway protection to alleviate this false-positive situation?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12377" LastActivityDate="2020-04-06T21:13:49.873" Title="Thermal runaway triggers when raising temperature amid cooldown" Tags="|marlin|creality-ender-3|troubleshooting|skr-mini-e3|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13355" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13352" CreationDate="2020-04-06T17:50:23.223" Score="2" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Problem Statement&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;SketchUp does not always create STLs in ways that are closed, watertight manifolds - a block with a bore is, if created as a block first and then bored out, actually 2 surfaces if made with SketchUp:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a cylinder with its normals facing inside and no top and bottom&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a block that has 2 holes in opposite surfaces&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The two surfaces are not connected. As a result, Cura sees two non-manifolds and tries to fix each of them - the cylinder with the normals facing inside is considered an artifact that can't be fixed, the holes in the block are stitched and thus turned into a solid block.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Fixing&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To repair the issue, you could load the item into for example &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.meshmixer.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;MeshMixer&lt;/a&gt;, which allows to separate and show the different surfaces (shells) and run a rather good auto-fix.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another program that, with a little handiwork could help is &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.blender.org/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;blender&lt;/a&gt;. In blender you can first import the STL, then merge the vertices at the edge of the bore and cut cube and thus turn the two shells into one neatly, then re-export it as an STL. I strongly suggest to just add it to your &lt;a href=&quot;https://store.steampowered.com/app/365670/Blender/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Steam library&lt;/a&gt; if you want to keep it up to date.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:29:41.667" LastActivityDate="2020-04-06T20:11:41.933" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13356" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13353" CreationDate="2020-04-06T21:13:49.873" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes there are ways to tune false positives. For Marlin firmware you can find these option in the &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/blob/2.0.x/Marlin/Configuration_adv.h&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Configuration_adv.h&lt;/a&gt; file.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the file itself you can read what you need to do:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt; * If you get false positives for &quot;Thermal Runaway&quot;, increase&#xA; * THERMAL_PROTECTION_HYSTERESIS and/or THERMAL_PROTECTION_PERIOD&#xA; */&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2020-04-06T21:13:49.873" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13358" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13369" CreationDate="2020-04-07T09:19:21.100" Score="3" ViewCount="3013" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to print a lithophane with my Ender 3, but the nozzle gets closer and closer to the previous layer,  layer after layer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I thought that what was causing the problem was perhaps a gear lock due to the fact that the Z rod wasn't parallel to the vertical axis, but after fixing it the problem remains.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bed is super planar and perfectly levelled and, in fact, the first layer comes out perfectly.&#xA;Extrusion is also okay. The printer seems fine in all aspects.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems like the seriousness of the problem is proportional to the number of layers, just like the printer is losing a fixed height by each layer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've ruled out the possibility of wrong calibration of Z steps because after measuring a cube of 12&amp;nbsp;cm of height and telling the printer to raise 12&amp;nbsp;cm the cube fits perfectly under the nozzle with the levelling gap (so perfect calibration).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What do you think may be the problem?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14228" LastEditorUserId="2191" LastEditDate="2020-04-08T16:00:12.200" LastActivityDate="2020-04-08T18:04:19.673" Title="Ender 3 nozzle gets closer and closer to the previous layer as the print progresses" Tags="|creality-ender-3|z-axis|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="12" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13359" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12236" CreationDate="2020-04-07T12:05:33.190" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well I found that I can use a DuPont cable to connect the diag1 pin to the right endstop&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tWE10.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tWE10.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is also a beta functionality in the Marlin firmware I haven't tried: Just uncommenting &lt;code&gt;SPI_ENDSTOPS&lt;/code&gt; definition&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;    * SPI_ENDSTOPS  *** Beta feature! *** TMC2130 Only ***&#xA;    * Poll the driver through SPI to determine load when homing.&#xA;    * Removes the need for a wire from DIAG1 to an endstop pin.&#xA;    *&#xA;    * IMPROVE_HOMING_RELIABILITY tunes acceleration and jerk when&#xA;    * homing and adds a guard period for endstop triggering.&#xA;*/&#xA;#define SENSORLESS_HOMING // StallGuard capable drivers only&#xA;&#xA;#if EITHER(SENSORLESS_HOMING, SENSORLESS_PROBING)&#xA;    // TMC2209: 0...255. TMC2130: -64...63&#xA;    #define X_STALL_SENSITIVITY  8&#xA;    #define X2_STALL_SENSITIVITY X_STALL_SENSITIVITY&#xA;    #define Y_STALL_SENSITIVITY  8&#xA;    //#define Z_STALL_SENSITIVITY  8&#xA;    //#define SPI_ENDSTOPS              // TMC2130 only&#xA;    //#define IMPROVE_HOMING_RELIABILITY&#xA;#endif&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20470" LastActivityDate="2020-04-07T12:05:33.190" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13360" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-04-07T12:23:06.453" Score="1" ViewCount="5235" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have written &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/13304/i-can-set-the-voltage-and-current-of-the-tmc2130-driver-manually-but-in-which&quot;&gt;a question about this&lt;/a&gt; but I found new information in &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OUadiW5QLBE&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this video&lt;/a&gt; and I want to go more to the point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My motor &quot;rated current&quot; is 1.4V. I assume that this is the maximum current&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Nl0sE.png&quot; alt=&quot;motor_current&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The guy explains in the video how to calculate the Vref and the X_CURRENT value of Marlin&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;RMS current = Max current / 1.41 = 1.3 / 1.41 = 0.92&#xA;Vref = (RMS Current x 2.5) / 1.77 = 1.3 V&#xA;90% Vref = 1.17 V       // to avoid maximum power in the motor&#xA;X_CURRENT = 1170 mA     // magic, I don't know why the guy of Teaching Tech does this convertion&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Actually, I have read just now that one person says in a comment of the video:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;[...] the numbers are wrong. When populating the current values in Marlin, it's asking for the RMS value in mA, not VREF. If we take the given values and take 90% of what's calculated, we'd end up with [...]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the new calculation would be:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;X_CURRENT = 90% RMS current = 0.92 * 0.90 = 0.828 A = 828 mA&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have also read in the TMC2130 datasheet:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Integrated power MOSFETs handle motor currents up to 1.2A RMS (QFN package) / 1.4A RMS (TQFP) or 2.5A short time peak current per coil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Questions&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is he right? Why is he converting &lt;code&gt;1.17 V =&amp;gt; 1170 mA&lt;/code&gt; directly?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The rated current shown in the motor datasheet is the same as the maximum current?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;As &lt;code&gt;1.170 A &amp;lt; 1.2 A RMS&lt;/code&gt; or &lt;code&gt;0.828 A &amp;lt; 1.2 A RMS&lt;/code&gt;, the driver will not shut off, right?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Are my calculations right?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20470" LastEditorUserId="20470" LastEditDate="2020-04-07T12:33:19.807" LastActivityDate="2020-04-07T12:33:19.807" Title="How to calculate the Vref and X_CURRENT for a TMC2130 stepper driver, knowing the rated current of the stepper motor?" Tags="|marlin|stepper|stepper-driver|tmc2130|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13362" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8022" CreationDate="2020-04-07T16:56:49.583" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had similar problem with my Tevo Tarantula. Tried all the options mentioned above as well. It seemed to be Z-axis height related. Changed my Z-axis flexible coupling to a solid coupling which solved it for me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20681" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-11-02T07:31:31.827" LastActivityDate="2020-11-02T07:31:31.827" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13363" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-04-07T21:34:39.123" Score="2" ViewCount="114" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am very frustrated with some weird solid infill issue, mostly due to sloped wall such as chamfer for fillet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is an example. I have a 20x20x20&amp;nbsp;mm cube with 2&amp;nbsp;mm rounded chamfer at the bottom shown in the figure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eIUZz.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eIUZz.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I slice it using default 0.20&amp;nbsp;mm profile, at layer 5 I can see some wiggle solid infill near the wall, shown in figure:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/i8tYW.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/i8tYW.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I thought that is to help create the chamfer. BUT, if I increase the bottom solid layer number to 50, at layer 51 (which is way above the chamfer region already), I start to see that same wiggle solid infill again! This can't be correct... Shown in the figure:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/v5W43.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/v5W43.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am using the most recent PrusaSlicer 2.2.0&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason I want to get rid of those wiggles is because they create crazy vibrations which then create layer shift for me...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any help will be appreciated!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20685" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2020-04-08T21:21:08.773" LastActivityDate="2020-04-08T21:21:08.773" Title="Weird solid infill for chamfer" Tags="|slicing|infill|prusaslicer|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13366" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13367" CreationDate="2020-04-08T08:28:42.607" Score="1" ViewCount="1793" Body="&lt;p&gt;For some time I've been struggling to print models with holes going all the way through from top to bottom. Models without those holes print out just fine. I've spend quite some time on levelling the bed, so I think the levelling is fine. I'm using Cura 4.5 with the default settings (normal profile) for the Anycubic I3 mega.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At first I had the problem of the initial circles not sticking to the bed. This is what it looked like:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TCTyO.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TCTyO.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;lower right circle not sticking&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then (after doing a lot of searching on the internet) I changed the following settings in Cura:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Initial layer height: &lt;strong&gt;0.1&lt;/strong&gt; -&gt; &lt;strong&gt;0.3&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Optimize wall printing order: &lt;strong&gt;false&lt;/strong&gt; -&gt; &lt;strong&gt;true&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After that the circles seemed to stick better, but still the bottom layer looks quite messy. This is a picture of the bottom of the object printed with these settings:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TPQ2O.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TPQ2O.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;bottom layer with altered settings&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And this is what it looks like from the top:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GQWyl.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GQWyl.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you can see, it still gets quite messy around the circles, and they seem to be detached from the rest of the model.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After this (and doing a lot more browsing) I decided to make the following change in Cura:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Retraction extra prime amount &lt;strong&gt;0&lt;/strong&gt; -&gt; &lt;strong&gt;0.07&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But to be honest, I have not clue what this really does. This is what the initial layer (of another model) looked liked after changing that setting:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DY3r0.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DY3r0.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And after a couple of layers it looked like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yT7Wf.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yT7Wf.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now (finally) my question, does anyone have an idea on how to make my prints (especially the connection of the circles with the rest of the model) better?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20697" LastEditorUserId="2338" LastEditDate="2020-06-08T19:31:54.627" LastActivityDate="2020-06-08T19:31:54.627" Title="Problem printing circles/holes on Anycubic I3 mega" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|pla|adhesion|anycubic-i3-mega|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13367" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13366" CreationDate="2020-04-08T09:00:18.963" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;From your images can be seen that:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your nozzle is too far from the bed (the lines are not touching), so you either need to level with a less thick paper or allow for more friction between the paper and the nozzle. There is also a plugin for Cura to set a Z-offset.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You need to enable &lt;code&gt;Combing mode&lt;/code&gt; = &lt;code&gt;Not in Skin&lt;/code&gt; and possibly fine tune your retraction settings.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You could benefit from some more adhesion using an adhesion spray.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-04-08T09:07:43.707" LastActivityDate="2020-04-08T09:07:43.707" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13369" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13358" CreationDate="2020-04-08T17:55:05.270" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Finally I've found the damn problem: &lt;strong&gt;Adjustable rollers of all axes were flat on one point&lt;/strong&gt; making layers to shift in all directions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The effect was less visible on the X and Y axes but it was more notable in the Z axis as the flat part was right from the start of the print. I think that flat part was making difficult for the Z axis to move upward, and making my prints fail when printing at higher resolutions (I guess the finer the displacement the weaker the torque).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seemed to me that the nozzle was getting closer to the previous layer but instead it was resting (or barely moving) on the flat part of the Z right adjustable roller first and then on the other adjustable roller of the same axis.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;To diagnose the problem disable the steppers and moved the axes manually and feel if there are notches&lt;/strong&gt;, so to speak, in various spots on every axis.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The solution is to replace the rollers&lt;/strong&gt; with new ones and to not close them too tight otherwise they'll deform over time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14228" LastEditorUserId="14228" LastEditDate="2020-04-08T18:04:19.673" LastActivityDate="2020-04-08T18:04:19.673" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13371" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13372" CreationDate="2020-04-08T21:36:05.040" Score="2" ViewCount="219" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am trying to write a program that edits a 3mf file by defines different slicing parameters for different stls that I have previously merged into my 3mf file, but I am a little bit confused about the configuration of the 3mf file, and where I would look to make changes in the slicing parameters. Can anyone lead me in the right direction as to where I could look? I'm assuming that I wouldn't be making any changes to the .model file because it seems like it only holds information about the meshes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks and let me know if it would be helpful for me to clarify anything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20706" LastActivityDate="2020-04-09T14:30:03.440" Title="How can I include seperate Slicing Parameters in my 3mf file" Tags="|3d-models|stl|prusaslicer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13372" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13371" CreationDate="2020-04-08T21:49:15.463" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Huh. On a hunch I just changed a copy of a .3mf model to have a &lt;code&gt;.zip&lt;/code&gt; file extension, and what do you know, it works! 3mf is just a set of compressed xml. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The zip folder structure I saw included a &lt;code&gt;MetaData&lt;/code&gt; folder. I bet you could put just about anything you wanted in there, as long as it doesn't conflict with things other 3mf parsers are expecting to find.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tested this. I dumped an unrelated pdf file into the folder and re-zipped it. Both MS 3D Builder and Cura were able to open the updated file just fine. However, saving the file again in 3D Builder did not preserve the PDF.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suppose there's a lesson here, too: we may need to be wary of models we download off the internet. They could include literally &lt;strong&gt;anything&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This also raises an interesting possibility: password protected 3mf files. If 3mf is just a zip container, and zip files can have passwords, it follows logically that 3mf files can have passwords.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12562" LastEditorUserId="12562" LastEditDate="2020-04-09T14:30:03.440" LastActivityDate="2020-04-09T14:30:03.440" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13373" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-04-09T00:18:29.430" Score="0" ViewCount="96" Body="&lt;p&gt;I hope someone can help me figure out what's going on with my printer. I have been printing a couple of pieces and it's been printing perfectly. But for some reason every now and then, the printer moves down into the piece just before it finishes printing (after the final top layer) and completely wrecks the piece. I have no idea why this is doing it, and nothing I haven't changed the G-code since. to prove this, I printed an old model that I had on my computer, and it still managed to do it. Please help I have no idea why it's doing this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20712" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-04-09T11:03:16.243" LastActivityDate="2020-04-09T11:03:16.243" Title="Anet A8 moves down into piece, destroying it, just before the printer is set to finish" Tags="|troubleshooting|anet-a8|z-axis|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13374" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13349" CreationDate="2020-04-09T10:14:29.123" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you can get the torch hot enough and you carbonise/burn the filament properly, it may work. You still need to do a cold pull to remove as many residues as you can, but if you heated it enough, the residuals maybe won't stick too much to the nozzle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You already have the butane, try and tell us.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2338" LastActivityDate="2020-04-09T10:14:29.123" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13375" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-04-09T12:50:36.637" Score="1" ViewCount="426" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is the first time I've run into this problem and it seems very confusing. I wanted to print a simple functional part out of PLA and although the first few layers were fine, the 6th/7th layer started to have some weird 'blobs'/deformations on it. I don't know how to fix it and the problem didn't go away after changing the filament. I suppose the problem is related either to my settings or the printer. It is very weird, I fully calibrated the printer right after the first fail. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Settings:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;nozzle 215&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;bed 60&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;speed 100, 50&amp;nbsp;mm/s for bridges&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;cooling 100&amp;nbsp;%, but no autocooling in order to print faster&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;using PrusaSlicer&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Photo:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KLMmZ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KLMmZ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20621" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-04-09T13:39:00.743" LastActivityDate="2020-04-12T18:00:42.643" Title="Prusa MK3S weird 'Blobs' on PLA print surface" Tags="|print-quality|prusa-i3|pla|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13376" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15056" CreationDate="2020-04-10T04:04:38.050" Score="1" ViewCount="371" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm having some issues with my Prusa i3 prints. I'm trying to print the default beer opener print that came with the Prusa's memory card but the infill will break causing clogging and now allowing the print to finish. I've attached a picture of one of the failed prints.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JNPn4.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JNPn4.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've checked Prusa's website and tried tightening the extruder gears and made sure the gears are clean. I'm using the PLA sent with the printer (1.75&amp;nbsp;mm) and with a default G-code file so I'm fairly sure it is a hardware issue, but I'm not sure what the issue could be. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://blog.prusaprinters.org/7-problems-affecting-quality-of-3d-prints/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Here is the link&lt;/a&gt; that I've used to help me troubleshoot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20727" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-04-10T05:00:30.293" LastActivityDate="2020-12-17T20:36:25.200" Title="Issues with print Prusa i3 infill breaking and causing clogs" Tags="|print-quality|prusa-i3|troubleshooting|infill|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13378" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-04-10T13:46:55.513" Score="3" ViewCount="2172" Body="&lt;p&gt;So in light of the in going pandemic, I have begun printing masks for my family and a few friends. As I was printing them the thought occurred to me, &quot;Is PLA safe to be breathing off of?&quot; So that is my question. Is PLA safe to breathe off of or does it need to be coated with, for example, a food grade epoxy? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am using Matterhackers standard black PLA and a stock ender-3 printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you for your time and stay safe!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20736" LastActivityDate="2020-04-11T07:32:58.847" Title="Is PLA safe for masks?" Tags="|pla|safety|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13379" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13378" CreationDate="2020-04-10T15:02:03.260" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;PLA itself should be safe, at least chemically, but there's no guarantee that additives in a particular filament manufacturer's material are safe. From this standpoint it would be best to use an uncolored &quot;natural&quot; (comes out translucent but cloudy when printed) PLA from a manufacturer who documents that it has no added ingredients. It's also plausible (not saying this is necessarily the case) that there's fine particulate matter produced by heating or in the extruder gear that ends up on the surfaces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, in the bigger picture/XY-question, it's unlikely that printed masks provide safety against viral transmission. Especially with a rigid material like PLA, they're not going to make an air-tight fit with your face, and they're likely not air-tight themselves even if they do (due to imperfect extrusion, slight gaps between layers at least intermittently). This could perhaps be mitigated by using a separate edge material to make a tight fit with face, and sealing the print like you suggested. However, once you make it air-tight, it's unsafe for another reason: &lt;strong&gt;it's a suffocation hazard&lt;/strong&gt;! Just because you insert a filter to breathe through doesn't mean that you're actually going to be able to breathe through it properly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Naomi_Wu&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Naomi Wu a.k.a. Sexy Cyborg&lt;/a&gt; (well known for working with Creality, open source/OSHW compliance in China, and popularizing the Ender 3) has done a number of twitter threads on what the dangers are and why it's unsafe and irresponsible to be creating air-tight 3D-printed masks if you're not qualified for designing this type of device. &lt;a href=&quot;https://twitter.com/RealSexyCyborg/status/1242285063095664640&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Here is one&lt;/a&gt;. A highlight:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;This results in CO2 buildup. After about 30 minutes your plastic mask, if actually airtight and strapped securely to your face will, before you can take it off, kill you- very peacefully. You'll just slump over and go to sleep, but you'll still be dead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2020-04-11T07:32:58.847" LastActivityDate="2020-04-11T07:32:58.847" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13380" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-04-10T17:31:22.187" Score="0" ViewCount="1691" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking to print this item:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4274950&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4274950&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to lay it flat on the bed, 90° to how it's shown on Thingiverse. The problem is there's the one little corner on the end of the piece. When placed flat, this corner makes one side of arch. During the print, this section will build up to have much more material up in the air over a relatively small contact point, until the archway is connected. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm worried the section will shake loose from the bed. Is it possible to tell Cura to put a brim around just this section, and not the whole piece?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I have to, I can edit the model the include 0.13 mm thick section there as part of the file. But I'd prefer to slice for this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12562" LastEditorUserId="12562" LastEditDate="2020-04-10T17:40:08.247" LastActivityDate="2020-04-15T17:15:24.067" Title="Brim around just one section" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|slicing|adhesion|brims|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13381" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13383" CreationDate="2020-04-10T17:46:50.973" Score="3" ViewCount="493" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is is possible to have alternating numbers of lines for the outer wall between each layer? So, say, one layer will have 3 lines for the wall, the next layer, 2, then the next layer 3, then 2 again, and so on? Even better, if I could group them in twos: two layers with 3 lines, two layers with 2 lines, repeat until done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I use Cura, but if other slicers can do this I'd like to hear about it, too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12562" LastActivityDate="2020-04-10T22:32:07.747" Title="Alternating number of lines for the shell between layers" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|slicing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13382" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13442" CreationDate="2020-04-10T17:59:57.533" Score="5" ViewCount="31551" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've already asked this question somewhere else but unfortunately I had little luck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So... my Ender 3 Pro extruder just started skipping steps, as in the gears (and the gear pinion) will rotate but the filament won't flow. It all started when I changed PLA filament to a new roll; I thought it might have been the roll faulty so I've tried a spool that had been working fine until 2 hours before it all started. Nope, skipping with that one as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's what I've tried doing so far:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Replaced the stock PTFE tubing with Capricorn tubing.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Checked that the tubing is tight and does not have play.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Replaced the whole extruder system (except for the extruder motor) with a metal Creality system.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Performed various cold pulls.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Replaced the nozzle.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Upped the extruding temperature from 195&amp;nbsp;°C to 205&amp;nbsp;°C.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Checked that there's the correct distance between the bed and the nozzle.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Yelled at the printer.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Asked for advice to my cats.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;None of the above worked, and my cats looked funny at me. Print settings as below:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Filament diameter in the slicer 1.75mm (yes I've checked).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Temperature: 195&amp;nbsp;°C, upped to 205&amp;nbsp;°C.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Print speed: from 20&amp;nbsp;mm/s for the first layers to 50&amp;nbsp;mm/s for the infill.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've also reverted back to the old PTFE tubing as I noticed that the Capricorn was giving too much resistance to the filament. Nope, still skipping.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've noticed that the extruder gear grips quite firmly onto the filament, so much so that when it starts slipping it actually eats away the filament until it breaks. It's almost like there's a clog somewhere but the tubing is clear, the hot end is clear (I've cleared it and checked multiple times), and the nozzle is brand new.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What else can I try? Have I missed something? Apart from the changes listed above (carried out after the extruder started skipping), the printer is absolutely stock, firmware and everything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;UPDATE:&lt;/strong&gt; I've changed the factory hot end bloc with a brand new one, changed PTFE tubing one again, making sure it's as close as possible to the nozzle (unscrew nozzle 1/2 turn, fit PTFE, screw nozzle in) but it didn't change anything at all. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The extruder still skips steps as it can't push the filament out of the nozzle. Pushing it manually feels nice and smooth until it hits the nozzle, where I can feel too much resistance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;UPDATE 2:&lt;/strong&gt; I've modifed the following parameters on the EEPROM to limit the filament flow:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;M203 Z5.00 E25.00&#xA;M201 E1000&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've also crancked the temperature up to 220°C but it made no difference whatsoever. What I've noticed is that, after cleaning hot end and tubing, it starts skipping after 1 hour of printing, every single time without fail.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;UPDATE 3:&lt;/strong&gt; I've checked the input voltage from the PSU and it's 24V; the Vref for the extruder is 0.744V, so everything looks as expected.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;UPDATE 4:&lt;/strong&gt; The extruder idler pulley has a compression washer to hold it in place without impeding idle spinning; it is usually mounted in the order idler pulley, compression washer and bolt. I've noticed that the pulley wasn't spinning freely this way, so I inverted the order to compression washer, idler pulley and bolt. The bolt head is small enough not to stop the pulley from spinning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've also increased the pressure the spring arm excise on the idler pulley, so that the toothed pulley grips more firmly on the filament.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This way I've managed to improve things although not solve them. It's been printing for the last 3 and a half hour without skipping but it's not a solution, as the toothed gear is chewing too aggressively on the filament. In just one hour a good deposit of PLA shavings has formed on the extruder, and I had to blow it away, and this never happened before this all started.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20065" LastEditorUserId="20065" LastEditDate="2020-04-12T15:34:08.883" LastActivityDate="2022-05-13T22:40:44.543" Title="Ender 3 pro extruder skipping steps, tried multiple things" Tags="|creality-ender-3|troubleshooting|hotend|" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13383" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13381" CreationDate="2020-04-10T22:32:07.747" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is possible to get an alternate extra wall in Ultimaker Cura, the option is called &lt;code&gt;Alternate extra wall&lt;/code&gt;. It can be used to catch the infill more firmly, strengthening the print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From &lt;a href=&quot;https://support.ultimaker.com/hc/en-us/articles/360012512340&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Ultimaker support&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;h2&gt;Alternate extra wall&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;This setting adds an extra wall every other layer. This way the infill gets caught between the walls, resulting in stronger prints. For example, if you set the wall line count to two walls and enable alternate extra wall, it will print two walls on even numbered layers and three walls on odd numbered layers.&#xA;  &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Baudr.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;cross section schematics of a print&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Baudr.png&quot; alt=&quot;cross section schematics of a print&quot; title=&quot;cross section schematics of a print&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've used this option frequently, but I'm not aware of any option that you can change the amount of layers alternating. You can do that probably with the option to set different options for different sections of the model, see e.g. &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;/a/6523&quot;&gt;Different infill in the same part&lt;/a&gt;&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2020-04-10T22:32:07.747" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13384" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13380" CreationDate="2020-04-10T23:12:25.520" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't know a way to do that with Cura without breaking it up into multiple parts with different settings for each, but what about just enabling supports? You'd only get a very small amount of support material and it would act similarly to a brim to keep the small part from detaching.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2020-04-10T23:12:25.520" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13385" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13665" CreationDate="2020-04-11T00:18:51.070" Score="0" ViewCount="308" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm printing stacked Prusa COVID-19 face shields on a modded Ender 3. It works fairly well until the second layer of masks, where we get this weird effect that's kind of like stringing. It looks like the curve is becoming &quot;low poly.&quot; I'm sorry that I can't be more specific, but I really don't know how to describe it more than this. Please look at the pictures to get more info. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of the strangest things is that it worked earlier with the same slicer and the same profile. I am using PrusaSlicer, but I tried it with Cura and it still didn't work. There are a few more problems with the prints: some under-extrusion on the supports, and some spots had little gaps between the layers. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone have any fixes for any of these problems? I would mainly like to know about the strange kind of stringing because that actually prevents me from stacking prints. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am printing Overture PETG at 240 on the nozzle and 80 on the bed. This is at a speed of 50 mm per second. I have the Basaraba Innovations direct drive mod, the Creality silent board with TH3D Unified Firmware based on Marlin 1.1.9, and the EZABL Pro.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please look at the pictures to see what is happening.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VBYu2.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VBYu2.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/koHSS.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/koHSS.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TveJc.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TveJc.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/urpmX.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/urpmX.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iOLcQ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iOLcQ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/T21Ng.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/T21Ng.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vMDNI.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vMDNI.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9PnvN.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9PnvN.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20745" LastEditorUserId="12562" LastEditDate="2020-05-15T20:56:42.450" LastActivityDate="2020-05-15T20:56:42.450" Title="Strange stringing-like activity when printing face shields" Tags="|creality-ender-3|underextrusion|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13386" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-04-11T00:19:57.243" Score="1" ViewCount="917" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have 2 STL files that I want to chop, rotate, and glue together.  If I printed them and literally chopped and glued them together, I would be done.  Very simple operations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I imported them both into OpenSCAD, but I can't find docs or figure out a way to do anything to the STL files once they are imported.  They imported fine.  I don't know how to assign a variable name to the imported object, which I presume is the next step before I can rotate and move the objects around.  I might be going in the wrong direction though, I don't know.  usually during an import of a module you can assign a variable name, or instantiate it.  Since the import also instantiates it, I'm at a loss for what to do next.  I've programmed in a smattering of languages, but haven't touched OpenSCAD in ~3+ years.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When searching, I find a cornucopia of slightly related information like how to import a file from 2011, but nothing about how to work with it once it's been imported.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5576" LastActivityDate="2020-04-11T01:58:37.463" Title="How to I assign an imported STl file to a variable, polygon, or otherwise manipulate it?" Tags="|openscad|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13387" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13321" CreationDate="2020-04-11T01:52:47.863" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;In addition to the open-source niceties of OpenGL, you need to will often need to install and update the drivers for your GPU.  If you do not wish to or cannot utilize your GPU (it'll cost you in performance), look for options to turn off hardware acceleration or use a purely &amp;quot;software renderer&amp;quot; typesetting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know if FlashPrint has such settings, but I do know that OpenGL can do some screwy stuff if you lack correct Nvidia drivers (and have an Nvidia GPU).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20750" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2021-06-05T16:28:57.830" LastActivityDate="2021-06-05T16:28:57.830" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13388" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13386" CreationDate="2020-04-11T01:58:37.463" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;One can create a module to import the respective STL files.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;module bring_it_on_1() {&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;import(&quot;c:/user/models/egg_on_face.stl&quot;);&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;}&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;translate([-10, 20, 0]) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;bring_it_on_1();&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other modifiers can be used and will act on the STL file appropriately.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastActivityDate="2020-04-11T01:58:37.463" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13390" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13385" CreationDate="2020-04-11T05:00:12.753" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This isn't stringing. It's failure to adhere to the previous layer, so tension in the newly extruded material just makes it form a straight line until it bonds to something again. Are you used to printing PETG? You didn't mention fan settings, but having any cooling fan at all will cause failure of layers to bond. Your print speed is borderline for PETG, especially if you're using thick layers like 0.3 mm which you also didn't mention but looks like might be the case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2020-04-11T05:00:12.753" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13391" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13392" CreationDate="2020-04-11T12:07:51.927" Score="1" ViewCount="6054" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just got an Ender 3 Pro at the beginning of the week and have been printing a lot. I creased the magnetic plate cover, not realizing how it would hold up to being bent. This led to uneven printing and nozzle issues, so I stopped using it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any problem with printing directly onto the platform itself, without a cover?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20748" LastActivityDate="2020-04-11T13:42:56.760" Title="Can I print directly onto the bed plate? (Ender 3 Pro)" Tags="|creality-ender-3|bed|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13392" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13391" CreationDate="2020-04-11T13:42:56.760" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've printed for several years direct onto the 3&amp;nbsp;mm heated bed of the Anet A8 I used; worked perfectly! I did use a specific 3D print spray for adhesion, see e.g. &lt;a href=&quot;/a/6861&quot;&gt;this answer&lt;/a&gt; on &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;/q/3710/&quot;&gt;Should you use hairspray on a metal bed 3D printer?&lt;/a&gt;&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2020-04-11T13:42:56.760" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13393" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14875" CreationDate="2020-04-11T16:53:48.833" Score="2" ViewCount="187" Body="&lt;p&gt;A couple years back I received a Kossel XL kit from builda3dprinter.eu as a gift, but I stopped building it because multiple parts were missing, including printed parts. Now that I'm building a Prusa MK3S, I'm considering buying some of the parts and finding the stl files to print the printed parts. However I'm having a bit of trouble finding the files for the exact model, and finding the printed parts for the XL, rather than the mini. Any help would be greatly appreciated, and advice from people who built the same printer would be incredible. Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20756" LastActivityDate="2020-11-27T23:08:21.960" Title="Looking for files for printed parts for my Kossel XL kit from Builda3Dprinter.eu" Tags="|printer-building|delta|kossel|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13394" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13382" CreationDate="2020-04-12T02:20:43.687" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since you've said you can feel a problem at the nozzle pushing it through manually, and since you say it goes away for a while after cleaning, you probably have somewhere that molten filament is getting into that it's not supposed to, then solidifying and jamming. Check that the cooling fan for the heatsink on the coldend is working, and that the PTFE tube is properly installed all the way through the heat break and butted up against the nozzle with no gaps or irregularities, and that the pressure fitting is holding it firmly and not allowing it to back out. If you can't find anything wrong, it's possible that something is just defective/damaged inside the hotend assembly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2020-04-12T02:20:43.687" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13397" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-04-12T10:40:33.820" Score="1" ViewCount="289" Body="&lt;p&gt;When creating a sketch in Fusion 360, when drawing lines at an angle, it shows the length of the line:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/q6kb4.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/q6kb4.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20765" LastEditorUserId="2191" LastEditDate="2020-04-14T15:41:20.463" LastActivityDate="2020-09-11T16:04:30.467" Title="Measuring the legs of the triangle instead of the hypotenuse in Fusion 360 sketch" Tags="|fusion360|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13398" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13397" CreationDate="2020-04-12T14:05:42.323" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;For this, use a construction line:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;draw the approximate line&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;press &lt;code&gt;x&lt;/code&gt; to go into the construction-line mode&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;pres &lt;code&gt;l&lt;/code&gt; for the line tool&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Draw a line from the end to the base&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;constrict it orthogonal to the base, turning it into the height&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;press &lt;code&gt;d&lt;/code&gt; to go into defining distance mode&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;click on the dotted line&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;type in the height&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;press &lt;code&gt;x&lt;/code&gt; again to get back to normal lines.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;complete the triangle&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lL1sb.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lL1sb.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastActivityDate="2020-04-12T14:05:42.323" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13399" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13375" CreationDate="2020-04-12T14:44:10.217" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;After hours of trying to fix the problem by trial and error I found that getting the nozzle slightly higher by approximately 0.1&amp;nbsp;mm was the solution. I cleaned the rods from dust, tightened most of the screws again and calibrated the printer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't encounter this problem anymore even while printing at 150&amp;nbsp;mm/s speeds.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20621" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-04-12T18:00:42.643" LastActivityDate="2020-04-12T18:00:42.643" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13401" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13404" CreationDate="2020-04-12T19:58:24.887" Score="1" ViewCount="4669" Body="&lt;p&gt;Recently I decided to upgrade my Geeetech A10 (GT2560 v3.0 board) with E3D Chimera, Marlin 2.0.3 and more powerful 50&amp;nbsp;W heater cartridge. I wired everything up and tried to PID tune the hot end, but I got a problem. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the tuning ends and I use the values with &lt;code&gt;M301&lt;/code&gt;, the values are too agressive and the hot end initially overshoots more than 15&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C. After that the temperature is rock steady.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KKZgl.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Overshooting the temperature&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KKZgl.png&quot; alt=&quot;Overshooting the temperature&quot; title=&quot;Overshooting the temperature&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The tuned values are &lt;code&gt;P=9.4 I=0.47&lt;/code&gt; and &lt;code&gt;D=46.4&lt;/code&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried to change the values according the &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ziegler%E2%80%93Nichols_method&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;wikipedia table&lt;/a&gt; to no overshoot (&lt;code&gt;P=3,13 I=0.47&lt;/code&gt; and &lt;code&gt;D=123.7&lt;/code&gt;), but it just made the temperature unstable. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also tried to tune the values manually but with no succes. I even tried to use zeros for all three gains but it just oscilated &amp;plusmn;10&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C and still overshot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My guess is that the cartridge is too powerful for the Marlin PID tuning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a setting in the firmware where I can set the PWM value for the PID tuning? To slow the heating down? I tried to use &lt;code&gt;M301 E1 P0.25 S200 C10&lt;/code&gt; but it seems that it didnt use the &lt;code&gt;P&lt;/code&gt; parameter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or is there a way to manually tune the values without the printer? I've got an Arduin Uno and RPi Zero availible. Or do I have to buy another less powerful cartridge?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20767" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-05-19T06:24:34.873" LastActivityDate="2020-05-19T06:24:34.873" Title="PID tuning 50 W cartridge in Marlin" Tags="|marlin|hotend|heat-management|pid|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13402" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-04-12T23:32:57.817" Score="1" ViewCount="821" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently bought a second hand Turnigy Fabrikator Mini V2, which, as far as I can tell, is a rebrand of the Malyan M100. After my first few prints I noticed that my prints were very stringy and the filament really didn't want to stick to the bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I asked a guy who has quite a bit of experience with 3D printing what could be the problem. He took a look at my benchy print and said it was way too light for a benchy and recommended I'd look at my feedrate (I think the setting is called). &#xA;So, in repetier host, I told the printer to extrude 50 (I am assuming this is mm, this interface is a little wierd), I am also assuming that this number is the amount of fillament going into the printer, not the amount that comes out of the nozzle. So, I measured that, and it did seem that the amount of fillament going into the printer in was definately a lot less than 50&amp;nbsp;mm. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as I understand this is a setting in the EEPROM. So, I connected to it using minicom (generic USB commandline interface) and sent the command &lt;code&gt;M503&lt;/code&gt;, and after doing that, I got a bunch of settings in my terminal (formatting was a mess though and I am not sure if it was complete). After sending this command a second time, nothing happened and after a lot of disconnecting and connecting of the USB cable I figured out that this works only sometimes. I can't figure out how to get it to work consistently (&lt;code&gt;G28&lt;/code&gt; to home the printer always just works though). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also tried connecting to the printer with other applications like for example Pronterface, but I haven't had any success with anything except for Repetier-host on Windows (I usually use Linux). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So then because I'd like to be able to change EEPROM settings and because I'd like to interface with the printer on Linux I decided that it might be a good idea to update the firmware. So, as a first step, I want to know what firware it is currently running. I couldn't find much information on the Malyan website, (I found a firmware download button that returned a 404) and I also couldn't find much on HobbyKing (the website that used to sell this printer). So, then I tried to send it the &lt;code&gt;M115&lt;/code&gt; command, and yet again, I got nothing back from the printer (I don't know if I never get a response or if I'd get something back after a hundred attempts).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, now my questions are: what do I do from here? Do I just assume my printer uses some version of Marlin? I remember hearing that a lot of manifacturers just grab off the shelf open source firmware. Is there any way I could get a clue about what it is running? I know there is an stm32 on the pcb so that may be a hint. &#xA;Could I put something like Marlin on it even if it wasn't running that initially? is that even a good idea? I am assuming I'd at least have to tell it the pin mapping.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are images of 2 of the benchy's I printed. I stopped one of them half way through. The other one was my first print and the print speed was way too fast. I also did another print with slower settings but I can't find that one right now (that one was kinda stringy).&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/47rrd.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/47rrd.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;A failed benchy I printed&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xImyT.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xImyT.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;My first benchy (the print speed was a little too fast)&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a clarification of my question. As far as I know I have an under extrusion problem, and this is a problem that should (as far as I know) be fixed by changing the extrusion rate in firmware. My problem is that I don't know how to change this setting as I don't even know what firmware it is running. On top of this, when I try sending commands like &lt;code&gt;M503&lt;/code&gt; I get really inconsistent responses. I came to the conclusion of putting new firmware on it because I can think of no other way to fix this problem. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The right question here is probably: how do I change the extrusion rate in the firmware of this specific printer. (Any other solutions are welcome too of course. I have thought about just telling the slicer to compensate in the other direction but as far as I've read it is generally not a good solution to just say in your G-code to compensate for the under extrusion)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, today I did a lot of testing. And I concluded that when I just insert some fillament into the printer and it hasn't reached the nozzle yet, it extrudes the right amount, but when it reaches the nozzle it just extrudes a lot less. So it seems to be a mechanical problem. I can change the extrusion command to actual extrusion ratio by extruding slower or by increasing the heat of the nozzle. But I have to go quite slow &lt;code&gt;G1 F50 E50&lt;/code&gt; to get anywhere near the right amount of extrusion (still a little more than half a cm short in this case). I did some test prints and it definately seems to make a difference to print slower. These cubes were printed with the one on the right being printed at a little less than half the speed as the one on the right. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/y1AmY.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/y1AmY.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I guess it has come to troubleshooting the actual physical extruder (or is this stuff normal and am I just supposed to print at slow speeds on this printer).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The printer is using one of those extruders where the fillament is fed into a tube leading to the nozzle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BlccI.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BlccI.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The round thingey seems to be turning but it doesn't seem to grip the fillament well enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20752" LastEditorUserId="20752" LastEditDate="2020-04-14T23:28:45.640" LastActivityDate="2020-04-14T23:28:45.640" Title="Getting the Turnigy Fabrikator Mini V2 to a usable state" Tags="|print-quality|troubleshooting|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13403" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13483" CreationDate="2020-04-13T04:35:47.093" Score="1" ViewCount="5601" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a relatively new Ender 3 Pro, stock except for adding a tempered glass bed. I've fed about 3&amp;nbsp;kg of PLA filament so far, all Solutech brand. Near the end of the last reel, I started hearing a chunk noise. It varies in rate, between several/minute to going 10-15 between chunks. This has continued into a brand new, just unsealed reel so I don't think it's associated with the filament.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was able to finally discover that the sound is coming from the extruder stepper area and was able to see that when this happens, the filament drive wheel snaps back maybe 30-40 degrees. (This happens in the middle of printing a line, not when the filament retracts between lines.) I'm assuming that the stepper motor is slipping. There is no sign of gaps in the printed model nor is the filament on the reel binding that I can see.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm guessing maybe that the filament is being fed faster than the hot end can accept it, causing back pressure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm using Cura 4.4.0 as my slicer the whole time and while I have changed some settings, everything associated with speed, feed rate, hot end temperature and such are all stock. I did not notice this happening until recently.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has anyone seen this happen before? Anyone have any idea what could be causing this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20164" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-04-21T04:37:36.233" LastActivityDate="2021-05-12T03:17:15.493" Title="Ender 3 Pro Extruder Stepper Skipping with a Chunk sound" Tags="|extruder|creality-ender-3|stepper|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13404" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13401" CreationDate="2020-04-13T09:10:10.693" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Besides the &lt;code&gt;P&lt;/code&gt;, &lt;code&gt;I&lt;/code&gt; and &lt;code&gt;D&lt;/code&gt; values, you may also have to tune &lt;code&gt;PID_FUNCTIONAL_RANGE&lt;/code&gt; and &lt;code&gt;PID_INTEGRAL_DRIVE_MAX&lt;/code&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically, the functional range disables PID control when more than the set number of degrees away from the target temperature and just puts the heater to zero/maximum power. The integral drive max parameter limits the value of the integral term of the PID controller.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/wiki/PID_Tuning&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;The RepRap wiki&lt;/a&gt; notes: &lt;em&gt;(note this wiki is dated! some options might not be available)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;In Marlin, the parameters that control and limit the PID controller can have more significant effects than the popular PID parameters. For example, PID_MAX and PID_FUNCTIONAL_RANGE, and PID_INTEGRAL_DRIVE_MAX can each have dramatic, unexpected effects on PID behavior. For instance, a too-large PID_MAX on a high-power heater can make autotuning impossible; a too-small PID_FUNCTIONAL_RANGE can cause odd reset behavior; a too large PID_FUNCTIONAL_RANGE can guarantee overshoot; and a too-small PID_INTEGRAL_DRIVE_MAX can cause droop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My hunch is that the functional range may be too small; the PID doesn't kick in until close to the desired temperature at which point you will already have overshot the target (due to the high power heater and delay in the measurements). Once you've overshot the target temperature the integral term starts growing (negative) which causes the massive undershoot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-05-18T07:18:54.040" LastActivityDate="2020-05-18T07:18:54.040" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13406" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13570" CreationDate="2020-04-13T19:47:17.077" Score="4" ViewCount="1654" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;TL;DR;&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My initial answer fixed the problem for a while, but it still persists occurring... (see update 2 below)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Original question body:&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Print fails at random resulting in a hairy mess although I:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;cleaned bed,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;added glue,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;leveled bed,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;tweaked temperatures and cooling,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;cleaned nozzle,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;tightened wheels, checked the axes,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;tried to print temperature tower.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What else to do ? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First off, the equipment I use:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Printer: Artillery Sidewinder X1&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Slicer: Cura&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Filament: PLA&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At first the prints came out as expected. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1hCbM.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1hCbM.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;first&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is some bending at the bottom, that was later resolved by adding a brim. The object above and the ones later were printed with roughly the same settings:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Layer height: 0.28&amp;nbsp;mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wall line Count 3&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Top/Bottom Layers 3&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Infill 40% cubic&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Printing temp. 205&amp;nbsp;°C&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bed temp. 60&amp;nbsp;°C&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Print Speed 40&amp;nbsp;mm/s&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Retraction on&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;100&amp;nbsp;% Fan speed&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;added Brim (after the first)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yesterday that same part failed after 4 hours. I had to stop the print because the printer was making &quot;a hairy mess&quot; around the object. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YhXi5.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YhXi5.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Second try&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you can see there was some under extrusion earlier in the print which I didn't notice at first.&#xA;I thought the part came loose since it had little to none adhesion to the bed and after cleaning the bed properly and using some glue I started the print again. The result was the same, this time the print failed a bit earlier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IfKWX.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IfKWX.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Second and third&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(The small part was printed on top of the loose mess before it failed completly)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This time the bottom was quite loose again. After that I decided to print some smaller parts and do some troubleshooting first. I noticed some weird looking &quot;curly&quot; lines right away and stopped the print. It looked like &quot;under extrusion&quot; and a &quot;not properly leveled bed&quot;. (Notice that didn't happen in the prints before). So, after leveling the bed and printing the small part again the part got printed well until the top 3 layers which looked under extruded again and I could see the infill pattern through them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I added 5&amp;nbsp;°C to the printing temperature and (the smaller parts had 30&amp;nbsp;% infill) upped the infill to 40&amp;nbsp;%. That didnt resolve the issue completly but the print looked well enough and I had another go at a slightly bigger print. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This time not quite as tall at the ones before and it failed again. The first hour or so everything looked fine, but the printer was getting quite noisy, every retraction was a very loud clicking sound the printer itself was shaking quite a bit during movement and the print failed again. This time the object was very firmly on the bed and I had to use some force to get it off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4paHF.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4paHF.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;fourth&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The noise and shaking made me check the axis and tightened the wheels a little bit and after that I cleaned the nozzle with a &quot;cold pull&quot;. The last thing I did was printing a temperature tower which failed in the same way and looks quite bad overall.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hVoTP.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hVoTP.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Temp&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So my question is: Where do I go from here?  I'm quite new to 3D printing, there still seems to be some under extrusion going on, what are my next steps ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please note that it seems that the filament curls up at the tip of the nozzle randomly, resulting in a few lines not getting placed properly on the already printed parts. Eventuelly the print then fails. When I push filament throught it curls up and the stream is relatively thin. Not always though, most of the time it looks fine maybe a bit thin.&#xA;Can that be a clogged nozzle if X layers get printed ok, then for 5 seconds it messes up and then prints okay again?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;[Update]&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After changing the nozzle the filament stopped curling up and the lines look much, much better. But the problem persists. I started 2 prints, both failed a couple of minutes in. The second one on the first layer. It seems that the nozzle picked the just printed lines up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wdsBP.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wdsBP.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;line 1&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/u6Thk.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/u6Thk.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;line 2&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;[UPDATE 2]&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Back to square 1. It seems that I fixed a problem that I created while trying to fix the original problem. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After 4 successful prints and ~20 hours of printing the last print failed in the exact same way as shown in the pictures above. The filament is curling up at the nozzle again. The heatblock is &lt;strong&gt;not&lt;/strong&gt; leaking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;new heatblock&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;new heatbreak&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;new nozzle&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;new tubing between nozzle and idler&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;old filament&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;old print profile, settings&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I guess the nozzle is clogged ?! Can that be after such short printing times ? I dont want to clean everything for 2 hours after every print. Or worse change everything out after 15 hours or so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20788" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-05-06T12:00:40.513" LastActivityDate="2020-07-13T14:34:14.083" Title="Print failing at random, resulting in a &quot;hairy&quot; mess" Tags="|underextrusion|print-failure|artillery-sidewinder-x1|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13407" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13402" CreationDate="2020-04-13T21:32:27.900" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As there are multiple questions, I'm focusing on the actual problem that causes the Benchy print results (getting it to stick or firmware will not be answered).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that a Benchy is a nice, well known print, it actually isn't a good example to calibrate the printer; it is preferred to print calibration cubes, preferably the ones with embossed X, Y and Z.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Under extrusion is usually a result of incorrect hardware/firmware setup or a slicer error. It can also be blockage, but then the extruder needs to skip filament once in a while.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The prints show severe under extrusion. Note that 50 (in the slicer, extrusion rate) means 50&amp;nbsp;%, this should be 100&amp;nbsp;%. Basically, you tell the printer that it may only use half the amount of filament it needs to print the object. Furthermore, when you command 100&amp;nbsp;mm to be extruded, the actual displacement of filament also need to be 100&amp;nbsp;mm. See &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6483/how-do-i-calibrate-the-extruder-of-my-printer&quot;&gt;How do I calibrate the extruder of my printer?&lt;/a&gt;&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you really commanded an extrusion of 50&amp;nbsp;mm (e.g. &lt;code&gt;G1 F250 E50&lt;/code&gt;, first reset the length with &lt;code&gt;G92 E0&lt;/code&gt;), the amount of filament that is extruded should be exactly 50&amp;nbsp;mm. If the extruded length is incorrect, the steps/mm in your firmware is incorrect. You can look them up (or change them) with G-code &lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#M92:_Set_axis_steps_per_unit&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;code&gt;M92&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please measure your filament diameter at several positions and if it is consistently different from 1.75&amp;nbsp;mm update the value in your slicer with the mean value. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;A very common mistake for people using Cura for the first time is that the Cura default filament diameter is 2.85&amp;nbsp;mm, not 1.75&amp;nbsp;mm. But, if you commanded the extrusion yourself with a G-code, it should exactly extrude that amount. If that works, but your print still are under extruded, look into your slicer options.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-04-14T06:43:48.697" LastActivityDate="2020-04-14T06:43:48.697" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13408" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11621" CreationDate="2020-04-13T21:59:51.813" Score="9" Body="&lt;h2&gt;TL;DR&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Short answer&lt;/strong&gt;: &amp;quot;There is no difference!&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Long answer&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;G-code is parsed line by line. The parser in the firmware reads the command and the options (also called parameters) following it, comments are discarded.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Therefore, option &lt;code&gt;S&lt;/code&gt; should be followed by a Boolean value &lt;code&gt;0&lt;/code&gt; for False or &lt;code&gt;1&lt;/code&gt; for True. Without a value it is undefined and should be reported as incorrect or treated as false (in my opinion). But, the developers have chosen differently. If a Boolean value is expected and the value is not given, the parameter is parsed as &lt;code&gt;true&lt;/code&gt;. This has analogy with other software options or switches like e.g. used by Linux commands.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This means that for Marlin  the G-code &lt;code&gt;M420 S&lt;/code&gt; is exactly the same as &lt;code&gt;M420 S1&lt;/code&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;I've checked this with another command (this is not depending on the G-code command as there is a single parser processiong the G-codes and the following parameters); &lt;code&gt;M211&lt;/code&gt; where &lt;code&gt;M211 S&lt;/code&gt; is exactly the same as &lt;code&gt;M211 S1&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:29:41.667" LastActivityDate="2020-04-14T11:04:35.640" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13409" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-04-14T03:06:43.343" Score="1" ViewCount="1085" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hello 3D printing experts...I am stuck on my 1st print not coming out right.  After two prints, I finally got the X axis belt tight enough to print the test pig and it came out quite well.  I tried to print a filter holder for a PPE mask (makethemasks dot com) - the prints keep leaning and I can't seem to get this filter holder printed.  I have adjusted the eSteps in various increments, still leaning.  I have made belt adjustments too.  I have emailed Creality as well since I have heard that their support might assist as well.  I was so excited when the pig finally printed properly and now I am struggling to get even once mask filter holder printed after hours of tinkering and reprinting.  I have also tried to print the ear saver (show as a long mass in the lower left corner of the photo), the base stuck to the item and I could not get it loose, it just fused together.  sigh.  I know 3D printing is supposed to be a fun hobby, but I am sure getting off to a rocky start.  I want to print PPE masks and be helpful to my community by donating to hospitals.  I hope one of the settings recommendations help.  I tried to research adjusting the jerk and acceleration settings.  Not sure what to set those to with the Ender 3 Pro. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UZmFc.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UZmFc.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20794" LastActivityDate="2020-05-23T22:01:30.130" Title="Ender 3 Pro prints leaning" Tags="|creality-ender-3|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13410" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11450" CreationDate="2020-04-14T04:02:13.163" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Okay so I am not an expert but I think I can help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;First off, your &lt;strong&gt;nozzle is too close to your bed&lt;/strong&gt;. Take it up, I guess, to like between -0.75 to -0.6&amp;nbsp;mm. Play around there.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;For not sticking part, see whether it sticks with &lt;strong&gt;higher bed and nozzle temperature&lt;/strong&gt;. Higher temperature like for Nozzle: 220-250&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C and for Bed: 65-80&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C. &lt;em&gt;(Yes its too extreme for PLA filaments but we are observing what happens)&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;And I couldn't make out from the video, is your &lt;strong&gt;print fan&lt;/strong&gt; on? If so, switch it off.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I would advice to test print with a cube of dimension 200x200x0.2&amp;nbsp;mm. In your PrusaSlicer, set the &lt;em&gt;Bottom Fill Pattern&lt;/em&gt; to be &quot;Concentric&quot; and your &lt;em&gt;First layer height&lt;/em&gt; to be 0.2&amp;nbsp;mm. (I got this idea from a forum but I cannot recall its name)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;And as mentioned by @KeithS, keeping your &lt;strong&gt;bed clean&lt;/strong&gt; is important. With &lt;strong&gt;isopropyl alcohol and cotton balls&lt;/strong&gt; wipe the surface. (Though don't this too many times. I have heard that the bed looses its adhesion if done so. After a couple of prints wipe with isopropyl alcohol and before every print wipe just with a kitchen towel).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If your bed is clean, then use &lt;strong&gt;glue sticks&lt;/strong&gt; (note note all glue sticks work) on the print surface right before a print. Don't worry you can take it off after the print.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20795" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-04-14T05:53:16.553" LastActivityDate="2020-04-14T05:53:16.553" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13412" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16162" CreationDate="2020-04-14T13:13:00.820" Score="6" ViewCount="5764" Body="&lt;p&gt;PLA has a heat capacity of &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.sd3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/06/MaterialTDS-PLA_01.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;1.8-2.1 J/g-K&lt;/a&gt;, while &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.matweb.com/search/datasheet_print.aspx?matguid=4de1c85bb946406a86c52b688e3810d0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;PETG 1.1-1.3 J/g-K&lt;/a&gt;. This means that each gram of PLA needs more energy to heat up. I assume no &amp;quot;melting latent energy&amp;quot;, since we talk about plastics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The density is about the same.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Still, printing speed for PETG is said to be kept at max at 60 mm/s, while PLA can easily go up to 100 mm/s.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why is PETG supposed to be printed slower than PLA?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: a link to a more recent question may be of interest: &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10173/power-consumption-of-filament-extrusion/10175?noredirect=1#comment30444_10175&quot;&gt;Power consumption of filament extrusion&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2338" LastEditorUserId="2338" LastEditDate="2021-04-23T07:39:43.210" LastActivityDate="2021-08-06T05:46:02.137" Title="Why does PETG require slower speed?" Tags="|pla|print-material|petg|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13413" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-04-14T18:50:19.973" Score="1" ViewCount="1664" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am currently printing a simple cup out of PLA (I will later anneal it). My nozzle is 0.8&amp;nbsp;mm and I'm using a 0.4&amp;nbsp;mm layer height. Unfortunately, the layers keep separating. They don't detach completely, but there are 1 layer-tall, 3-7&amp;nbsp;mm wide gaps. I increased the temperature, since my speed is 100&amp;nbsp;mm/s. I also tried decreasing cooling and increasing the flow. This only helped a little bit. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Moreover, small increases in the temperature like 230/240&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C didn't work and now I have to use 270 and even 280&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C, which is crazy, considering my layer height is 0.4&amp;nbsp;mm. Is there any easy solution that will increase the quality?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Settings:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Material: PLA&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Layer height: 0.4&amp;nbsp;mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Nozzle: 235&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C first layer, 270&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C for the rest.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bed: 60&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cooling: 62&amp;nbsp;%&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Speed: 100&amp;nbsp;mm/s&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have noticed that 280&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C is better for large prints (large area, not height) and small prints look better when I change the temperature to 240/250&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C.&#xA;This is how my prints look by now. The extrusion is very inconsistent, with overextrusion in the middle of the layers and gaps in the corners:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TvySD.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TvySD.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/STuRM.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/STuRM.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suspect that the layer lines are not parallel to the heatbed and are over extruded, because of the high temp. I lowered it to 230&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C and there was no drooping/over extrusion, but there were more 'holes'.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16798" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-04-16T08:10:03.070" LastActivityDate="2020-04-16T11:17:30.313" Title="Prusa MK3S 0.8 mm nozzle layers separating" Tags="|pla|3d-models|nozzle|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13414" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-04-14T21:48:39.350" Score="1" ViewCount="36" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have add my Tevo Tarantula for a couple years now and made a lot of modifications. The last in date is a direct extruder from Trianglelab with an updated X-carriage and a NEMA 17 motor for the extruder. Without counting the number of times I clogged the extruder I managed to get some prints, some of them can be considered to be of &quot;okay quality&quot;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But each and every time I got the same problem, very irregular print sides (see photo attached). I could not find anyone with the same irregularities on their prints.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Indeed, instead of making thin line layers, the plastic is extruded in forms of droplets. Hence the side of my prints have these uneven sides. I could not find a pattern so far (only on one side, or in one particular orientation) and I am having a hard time figuring out what is the cause. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a possible candidate I am considering a X-Y stepper calibration problems (which I would not know how to address) as when the printer is active instead of going smoothly during long travels some motors are going by noticeable steps (unsmooth steps). I am a bit puzzled since I installed Trianglelab smoothers a while back and my prints quality really improved at that time...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If anyone has an idea I am very keen to have some heads-up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3Ax0e.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3Ax0e.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;First layers in PLA&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ehq0b.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ehq0b.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;we can see long travels&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have just finished my new print and please find the photos of my issues below. As you can see, there is a irregular side along the y-y axis. I usually saw problems from other people along the z-axis.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have just launched a print with 110&amp;nbsp;% flow rate to see if I notice any difference. Now it’s on layer 2 and I still those little teeth on the side....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sO3vd.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;along the x-y acis the side has a small indentation&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/W5mQp.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20805" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-04-16T07:01:30.740" LastActivityDate="2020-04-16T07:01:30.740" Title="Tarantula droplets on the side" Tags="|print-quality|tevo-tarantula|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13415" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-04-14T23:23:00.863" Score="1" ViewCount="55" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm using Repetier host 1.0.6, and ever since adding default retraction settings, the &quot;ETA&quot; showing during a print job is negative:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mLxCJ.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mLxCJ.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It stays this way throughout the print job, which is no fun, since having a real ETA is super convenient.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are my retraction settings in Slic3r, for which I only changed &lt;code&gt;length&lt;/code&gt; from zero to 5, and changed &lt;code&gt;lift Z&lt;/code&gt; from zero to 2:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xa89J.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xa89J.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why do I have a negative ETA value?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20694" LastActivityDate="2020-04-14T23:23:00.863" Title="ETA for print job showing negative in Repetier host" Tags="|prusa-i3|slic3r|repetier|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13417" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4353" CreationDate="2020-04-15T13:14:20.213" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had the same exact problems. Nothing would stick to the platform. One day I realized, that all of the failed prints would always start to fall off to one side, and all of the successful prints were all misformed and kinda diagonal. The platform was not level. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another problem that I more recently had was that I left resin on the plate for a couple of months and it hardened which doesn't allow printing at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20812" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2020-04-15T13:21:59.520" LastActivityDate="2020-04-15T13:21:59.520" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13418" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13380" CreationDate="2020-04-15T17:15:24.067" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would enable supports using &quot;Touching Build Plate&quot;, and then place a support blocker over the portion that you don't want supports added to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20813" LastActivityDate="2020-04-15T17:15:24.067" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13419" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13412" CreationDate="2020-04-15T17:21:47.283" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The density of PLA is around 1.25 g/cm³ and the density of PETG is around 1.38 g/cm³. When you're talking about the amount of energy needed to melt a particular &lt;em&gt;volume&lt;/em&gt; (which is what your extrusion units are) rather than mass, you need to scale the heat capacities (with units of &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$\frac{\mathrm J}{\mathrm g\cdot \mathrm K}$&lt;/span&gt;) by the density to get &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$\frac{\mathrm J}{\mathrm{cm}^3\cdot \mathrm K}$&lt;/span&gt;. This brings their volumetric heat capacities somewhat closer: 2.25-2.63 vs 1.52-1.79 (about 47 % higher for PLA rather than your figure of about 62 %), but with PLA still higher.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You also have to account for heat loss to the environment. PLA is typically printed around 200 °C or 210 °C at most; PETG in my experience requires 250 °C to reach low enough viscosity to be printable at any speed. Assuming an ambient 20 °C, the rate of heat loss should be something like 25 % higher for PETG. So the hotend has that much additional energy needed to begin with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Beside that, PLA is printed at temperatures where it's still extrudable and able to bond even if the temperature drops significantly below the nominal nozzle temperature (down to 180 °C, maybe even slightly lower), whereas PETG has trouble with increased viscosity and poor bonding right away if temperature drops.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Going broader still, PETG seems to need to keep its heat longer after being extruded in order for layers to bond well. (As evidenced by the need to lower fan or turn it off completely.) A slow-moving nozzle both provides heat (from the proximity of the nozzle itself) to slow the cooling, and reduces air flow across the part (by not causing as much air flow itself just by moving).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-08-06T05:46:02.137" LastActivityDate="2021-08-06T05:46:02.137" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13420" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13376" CreationDate="2020-04-15T17:23:04.733" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Try calibrating your Z again. It is hard to tell based on the picture, but it could be too close to the build plate, and thus is dragging while crossing the infill section, or it could be too far away and thus is not getting good layer adhesion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20813" LastActivityDate="2020-04-15T17:23:04.733" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13421" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-04-15T20:22:30.260" Score="0" ViewCount="463" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I recently watched a YouTube video on using Cura to modify a G-code to pause at a certain height in order to change filament (using an Ender 3 Pro) first time I did it, it worked fine but now when I replace the filament with the second colour and resume the print the nozzle digs into the print and tears it up its like it forgets it has done the first 5 layers and goes down to the bed again, the bed hasn't been moved neither has the Z-axis. can anyone help? It's beginning to do my head in I'm just wasting material.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20816" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-04-15T22:13:58.923" LastActivityDate="2020-04-15T22:13:58.923" Title="Nozzle digging into print after filament change" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|creality-ender-3|troubleshooting|change-filament|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13423" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-04-15T21:05:03.660" Score="0" ViewCount="395" Body="&lt;p&gt;On my Monoprice Mini Select v2 there is poor adhesion when the print head goes to put down a new layer on the bed as seen in the photo. Does anyone have a fix for this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NVbXE.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NVbXE.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20817" LastEditorUserId="2338" LastEditDate="2020-06-08T19:32:14.173" LastActivityDate="2020-06-13T01:29:41.693" Title="Poor adhesion on new layer - Monoprice mini select" Tags="|troubleshooting|adhesion|monoprice-select-mini|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13424" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13423" CreationDate="2020-04-15T21:19:51.223" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could try a higher bed temp, but also check to make sure bed is levelled all round as this can sometimes cause this to happen &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20816" LastActivityDate="2020-04-15T21:19:51.223" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13426" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-04-15T22:04:58.850" Score="1" ViewCount="493" Body="&lt;p&gt;The filament sensor of my i3 MK3 stopped working. In the support menu, it just says &lt;code&gt;IR: N/A&lt;/code&gt;. This is the same output as if I disconnect the filament sensor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My PCB says &lt;code&gt;rev 0.2e&lt;/code&gt; and this is what I see:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EMtVd.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EMtVd.png&quot; alt=&quot;Image&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the Prusa Shop, I found &lt;a href=&quot;https://shop.prusa3d.com/de/mk3mk3s/212-filament-sensor.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;a laser sensor&lt;/a&gt;, which has 4 pins, so that's probably what I have.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bpMhS.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bpMhS.png&quot; alt=&quot;Prusa Laser Sensor&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have already checked the voltage coming from the Einsy cable. It's 5.02 V, which is probably ok. The remaining two pins seem to be SCL and SDA, so it's likely a I²C bus.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have Arduinos, ESP8266 and ESP32 around. Is there a test routine that I could run on the filament sensor, other than Prusa's &lt;code&gt;N/A&lt;/code&gt; display?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1570" LastActivityDate="2020-04-20T21:35:35.540" Title="How to check if filament sensor is ok?" Tags="|prusa-i3|filament|part-testing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13427" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11963" CreationDate="2020-04-15T22:37:32.783" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought an Ender 3 and I had the same problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was changing few things and finally got success when I changed the nozzle to the second one (I had two in the set).&#xA;At the end changing the nozzle was the primary step, but in my opinion more important was reduce speed printing, from 100&amp;nbsp;% to 80&amp;nbsp;%.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since this simple modification (till now) all prints are fine now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20819" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-04-16T11:14:45.087" LastActivityDate="2020-04-16T11:14:45.087" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13430" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13413" CreationDate="2020-04-16T10:12:15.650" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;After printing ~30 calibration test cubes I finally figured out the perfect settings. &#xA;&lt;li&gt;&#xA;Apparently, the extrusion width in my slicer was set to a certain number, instead of &#xA;percentage. I was printing at 0.45&amp;nbsp;mm extrusion width, which was ~105&amp;nbsp;% of the 0.4&amp;nbsp;mm nozzle diameter, but less than 50&amp;nbsp;% of the 0.8&amp;nbsp;mm one. Changing the value to 130-140&amp;nbsp;% &#xA;solved the majority of my printing problems.&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&#xA;As I predicted, the 230-280&amp;nbsp;℃ nozzle temp. was ridiculously high, even with the &#xA;0.8&amp;nbsp;mm nozzle.  I gradually lowered it to 210&amp;nbsp;℃ (ironically, the value I chose at the very beginning). &#xA;&lt;li&gt; There was some warping, so I cleaned the heatbed from the glue, put the glue again and decreased bed temp. to 50&amp;nbsp;℃&#xA;&lt;li&gt; Finally, I decreased the flow from 1.3 to 1.05 and everything seems perfect now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16798" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-04-16T11:17:30.313" LastActivityDate="2020-04-16T11:17:30.313" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13432" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13434" CreationDate="2020-04-16T19:42:00.073" Score="1" ViewCount="1235" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have two options - to buy either the Ender 3 or the Mega Zero. I'm heading towards Ender 3 because the Mega Zero doesn't have a heated bed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is, how is a printer without a heated bed (the Mega Zero) a better option than one with a heated bed (the Ender 3)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why would I even consider buying a printer without a heated bed when the Ender 3 can do the same things &lt;strong&gt;and&lt;/strong&gt; has a heated bed? I want be able to print not only PLA but other materials as well. Doesn't the Mega Zero limit you to using only PLA?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17368" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-04-17T07:05:32.293" LastActivityDate="2020-04-17T09:36:57.933" Title="Is a heated bed an essential component for printing (difference between Creality Ender 3 or Anycubic Mega Zero)?" Tags="|creality-ender-3|heated-bed|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13433" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-04-16T21:15:58.057" Score="1" ViewCount="79" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2YAHF.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2YAHF.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;So I have an issue, every time I try to print anything it basically looks like a comb. All around the model there are just holes and holes everywhere. I dont know what to do about it. I don't have any infill, but honestly, this is just all stacked ontop of itself, so it shouldnt need to be filled in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please help me figure out how to make sure that the layers are actually layers, not just sticks standing up into the air.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8UYUm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8UYUm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Print&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20827" LastEditorUserId="20827" LastEditDate="2020-04-16T21:34:48.517" LastActivityDate="2020-05-17T14:02:10.140" Title="I have bad print quality, what should i do?" Tags="|print-quality|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13434" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13432" CreationDate="2020-04-17T02:00:22.273" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Lack of a heated bed does not necessarily limit you to using PLA. I would say (among those I've used) the material that's least sensitive to whether you have a heated bed is probably TPU. Depending on your model, it can even be hard to print PLA without a heated bed, unless perhaps you're willing to use a brim or raft. Printing ABS or ASA without a heated bed is almost certainly out of the question, and PETG &lt;em&gt;might&lt;/em&gt; be possible, but I'd expect it to be difficult.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mechanically, the Anycubic Mega Zero looks very similar to the Ender 3. The claimed bed size on the Mega Zero is slightly smaller (220 mm vs 235 mm) but they might just be counting the usable part.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only possible objective advantage to the Mega Zero I could find is the double gear extruder, which may help with printing faster or flexible filaments.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Presumably you could add a heating element to the bed if you want.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2020-04-17T02:00:22.273" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13436" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-04-17T04:35:05.003" Score="1" ViewCount="680" Body="&lt;p&gt;The heater cartridge on my CR10 V2 broke so I ordered a new one(12V). After replacing it the new one heats of very quickly past the target temperature and the slowly decreases to the target. Once it hits the target temp it goes up and down by 10&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C or so during prints. During the prints there is under extrusion. I read that if the filament gets hot too high up the hotted it could cause clogs. I replaced the nozzle as well and cleaned out everything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some things that I think may have an effect:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Could the new heater cartridge not be compatible?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;does a poor solder job with heater cartridge wires have an effect&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It's possible I messed up the thermistor when replacing heater cartridge, could that explain whats happening?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is there anything else in the hot end assembly such as fans that would cause this?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20831" LastEditorUserId="20831" LastEditDate="2020-04-18T22:30:57.463" LastActivityDate="2021-05-20T09:13:04.097" Title="CR10 V2 under extruding and heating up too quickly" Tags="|extrusion|creality-cr-10|heat-management|underextrusion|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13437" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13438" CreationDate="2020-04-17T06:43:18.310" Score="2" ViewCount="1065" Body="&lt;p&gt;I watched with great interest &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3YnB9RsMN1o&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this video: Temp Tower - Slic3r Gcode Placeholders - How To - Chris's Basement -- Jan 23, 2019    Chris Riley&lt;/a&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found a model I'm happy with: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2729076&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Smart compact temperature calibration tower by gaaZolee, December 24, 2017&lt;/a&gt; Uses Layer 0.20&amp;nbsp;mm  infill: 15&amp;nbsp;%  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm testing a stubborn new spool of PLA.  Temp range of test 225&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C to 180&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C.  That model above came with recommended &lt;code&gt;if&lt;/code&gt;statements.  I verified that with 100&amp;nbsp;% thickness on first layer, I'm exactly hitting all the Z targets at exactly the correct place for each temperature story on the tower.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm using the Slic3r &quot;Printer Settings&quot; tab - to place my &lt;code&gt;if&lt;/code&gt; statements in place at &quot;Before Layer Change G-Code&quot;.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's not clear to me on the format required for a G-Code &lt;code&gt;{if}&lt;/code&gt; statement.  I've tried... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;{if layer_z == 7.8}M104 S225{endif};   // fail, this converts to: M104 S225 {endif}    &#xA;{if layer_z==1.6}M104 S225             // fail, this converts to: M104 S225    &#xA;{if [layer_z]==1.6} M104 S225          // fails, this converts to: (null)    &#xA;{if [layer_num]==8} M104 S225          // fails, this converts to: (null)    &#xA;{if layer_num==8} M104 S225          // fails, this converts to: M104 S225 &#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In detail what I'm seeing is the if statements from all ten towers prints as &lt;em&gt;change temp to 225, 220, 215, 210... down to 180 (last entry)&lt;/em&gt; and 180&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C is where ALL my prints get printed at.  Total Fail. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm just not seeing anything in the Gcode output from Slic3r that remotely looks like an &lt;code&gt;if&lt;/code&gt; statement.  Any ideas here?  I've seen &lt;a href=&quot;https://manual.slic3r.org/advanced/conditional-gcode&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this reference, on advanced conditional G-Code&lt;/a&gt; but I'm just not understanding what to do here.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do see from &lt;a href=&quot;https://manual.slic3r.org/advanced/placeholder-parser&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Slic3r Custom G-Code Placeholder Reference&lt;/a&gt;, that I'm using the correct terms.   &lt;em&gt;[layer_z] - Z height of the active layer&lt;/em&gt;, and &lt;em&gt;[layer_num] - Integer number of the active layer&lt;/em&gt;. It's not clear if their use in &quot;Before Layer Change G-Code&quot; require the square brackets or not.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any clues on how to get an if statement into G-Code via Slic3r for a temperature tower print?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5014" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-04-17T09:16:47.367" LastActivityDate="2020-04-17T09:50:20.750" Title="Temp Tower Setup Troubles -- Slic3r (How do you format G-Code {if} statements?)" Tags="|g-code|calibration|slic3r|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13438" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13437" CreationDate="2020-04-17T07:45:25.700" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I think I figured this one out.  I was looking at it a bit wrong.  And here's my code:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;; Note to self:  layer_z = [layer_z]&#xA;; T tower floor 1&#xA;{if [layer_z]==1.6} M104 S225 T0&#xA;; T tower floor 2&#xA;{if [layer_z]==11.6} M104 S220 T0&#xA;; T tower floor 3&#xA;{if [layer_z]==21.6} M104 S215 T0&#xA;; T tower floor 4&#xA;{if [layer_z]==31.6} M104 S210 T0&#xA;; T tower floor 5&#xA;{if [layer_z]==41.6} M104 S205 T0&#xA;; T tower floor 6&#xA;{if [layer_z]==51.6} M104 S200 T0&#xA;; T tower floor 7&#xA;{if [layer_z]==61.6} M104 S195 T0&#xA;; T tower floor 8&#xA;{if [layer_z]==71.6} M104 S190 T0&#xA;; T tower floor 9&#xA;{if [layer_z]==81.6} M104 S185 T0&#xA;; T tower floor 10&#xA;{if [layer_z]==91.6} M104 S180 T0&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The key to understanding what is going on is the &lt;code&gt;; Note to self:  layer_z = [layer_z]&lt;/code&gt; line.  The whole block of code above gets repeated for every layer of the print in the G-code, but it gets evaluated.  And when I search for &amp;quot;layer z =&amp;quot; and scan thru the code.. I eventually see this...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;; Note to self:  layer_z = 1.6&#xA;; T tower floor 1&#xA; M104 S225 T0                  &amp;lt;---- Yowza. Nice. &#xA;; T tower floor 2&#xA;; T tower floor 3&#xA;; T tower floor 4&#xA;; T tower floor 5&#xA;; T tower floor 6&#xA;; T tower floor 7&#xA;; T tower floor 8&#xA;; T tower floor 9&#xA;; T tower floor 10&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and then again:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;; Note to self:  layer_z = 11.6&#xA;; T tower floor 1&#xA;; T tower floor 2&#xA; M104 S220 T0           &amp;lt;---- Yes!&#xA;; T tower floor 3&#xA;...&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All good. You have to have {} and [] within the code statements...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Addendum:  So it turns out things are not quite perfect.  I'm noticing at the upper floors, where things should be cooler, the temperature isn't changing.  Its locked at 215C.  I see this in the code:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;; Note to self:  layer_z = 31.5999999999999      &amp;lt;--- not sure how that happened.  &#xA;; T tower floor 1&#xA;; T tower floor 2&#xA;; T tower floor 3&#xA;; T tower floor 4&#xA;; T tower floor 5&#xA;; T tower floor 6&#xA;; T tower floor 7&#xA;; T tower floor 8&#xA;; T tower floor 9&#xA;; T tower floor 10&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;code&gt;31.6&lt;/code&gt; would have triggered a temperature change.  &lt;code&gt;31.5999999999999&lt;/code&gt; won't do it. I need to modify the &lt;code&gt;{if... == }&lt;/code&gt; to a complex test between two values...   Just wanted to share that observation here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do see from &lt;a href=&quot;https://manual.slic3r.org/advanced/conditional-gcode&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this reference&lt;/a&gt; that&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Expressions may be chained for an implicit AND:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;code&gt;{if [layer_num] == 10}{if [temperature_1] != 210}M104 S210&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And this seems to fix it:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;; Note to self:  layer_z = [layer_z]&#xA;; T tower floor 1&#xA;{if [layer_z]&amp;lt;=1.65}{if [layer_z]&amp;gt;1.55} M104 S225 T0&#xA;; T tower floor 2&#xA;{if [layer_z]&amp;lt;=11.65}{if [layer_z]&amp;gt;11.55} M104 S220 T0&#xA;; T tower floor 3&#xA;{if [layer_z]&amp;lt;=21.65}{if [layer_z]&amp;gt;21.55} M104 S215 T0&#xA;; T tower floor 4&#xA;{if [layer_z]&amp;lt;=31.65}{if [layer_z]&amp;gt;31.55} M104 S210 T0&#xA;; T tower floor 5&#xA;{if [layer_z]&amp;lt;=41.65}{if [layer_z]&amp;gt;41.55} M104 S205 T0&#xA;; T tower floor 6&#xA;{if [layer_z]&amp;lt;=51.65}{if [layer_z]&amp;gt;51.55} M104 S200 T0&#xA;; T tower floor 7&#xA;{if [layer_z]&amp;lt;=61.65}{if [layer_z]&amp;gt;61.55} M104 S195 T0&#xA;; T tower floor 8&#xA;{if [layer_z]&amp;lt;=71.65}{if [layer_z]&amp;gt;71.55} M104 S190 T0&#xA;; T tower floor 9&#xA;{if [layer_z]&amp;lt;=81.65}{if [layer_z]&amp;gt;81.55} M104 S185 T0&#xA;; T tower floor 10&#xA;{if [layer_z]&amp;lt;=91.65}{if [layer_z]&amp;gt;91.55} M104 S180 T0&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5014" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:29:41.667" LastActivityDate="2020-04-17T09:50:20.750" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13439" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13432" CreationDate="2020-04-17T09:36:57.933" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I used to print PLA with my heated bed turned off, since it was deforming when heated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It works perfectly fine, only detaching the print was terribly difficult.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would not buy a printer without it, because even a weak bed reaching only 50°C gives you many more possibilities.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I mean, you could use it to keep your coffee warm while you work at the computer, or to warm up chemical solutions to make them react faster. You can also use the bed to shake the solution!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Go for a heated bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2338" LastActivityDate="2020-04-17T09:36:57.933" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13441" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13433" CreationDate="2020-04-17T13:34:17.680" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The images that you show are typical for heavy under extruded prints. The &quot;comb like structure&quot; is caused by extrusion of too little filament which balls up to a certain point in time that it sticks to something previously printed, then balls up again, etc...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Under extrusion can be caused by many things, but this much is usually caused by an incorrect filament diameter set in your slicer. But, it can also be caused by a mechanical (or electronic) defect like a slipping extruder caused by a loose gear or missing steps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm operating 2.85&amp;nbsp;mm and 1.75&amp;nbsp;mm 3D printing machines (both have pros an cons) and occasionally I've experienced exactly the same results (you call it a &quot;comb&quot; like print). E.g. the slicer Cura (Ultimaker software product) is known/used to be known to reset the filament diameter to the default of 2.85&amp;nbsp;mm after an upgrade of the software, which is the filament diameter used by Ultimaker printers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;If you add more details to your question, we can tailor the answer to your specific issue, but it certainly is under extrusion.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2020-04-17T13:34:17.680" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13442" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13382" CreationDate="2020-04-17T13:52:27.390" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;So, after some day of yelling and disassembling, I figured out what was the issue. As many were suggesting, I indeed had an issue with the tubing lifting from the nozzle. it was lifting, so PLA was slowly infiltrating where it wasn't supposed to be to the point it created a blockage, resulting in skipping.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, no amount of cleaning and reseating the tubing got rid of it. i've also changed, again, nozzle, tubing and pneumatic fittings to higher quality ones to no avail.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I got absolutely fed up and bought a direct drive conversion kit. One of the cheap ones, reusing most of the stock hardware, including stock extruder and gears. The idea, for me, behind it was that the mass of the extruder, and the much shorter length of tubing, meant that the tubing had no space to move around and let the PLA out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It looks like it's working so far, I'm 6 hours in on a 10 hours print with no skipping at all. I also managed to ease the pressure that the extruder arm excise on the filament, so it's not being chewed anymore and I'm not seeing any PLA shavings so far.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20065" LastActivityDate="2020-04-17T13:52:27.390" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13443" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3234" CreationDate="2020-04-17T14:29:00.260" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I had this issue for months, was about to either give up and call my printer a paper weight, but I figured it out. And it doesn't cost anything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I literally reprinted the same hose adapter 6 times (every time the filament slipped about 20 times and it was unusable). I changed 4 settings and since then I've printed the same print twice in a row without a single filament slip.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In &quot;Device Settings&quot; in Makerbot application:&#xA;Extruder Temp: 220&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C&#xA;Travel Speed (I think this is what is actually causing the slip): 115&amp;nbsp;mm/s&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then in the &quot;Infill&quot; section:&#xA;Infill Density: 30&amp;nbsp;%&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lastly in &quot;Model Properties&quot;:&#xA;Shell Starting Point: 220&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please let me know if this works for you as well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(I should point out I just have the regular smart extruder, and I was planning on dumping the $350 for the top of the line model)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20838" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-04-17T16:04:58.207" LastActivityDate="2020-04-17T16:04:58.207" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13446" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13382" CreationDate="2020-04-17T19:22:57.120" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I my case helps reducing printing speed, from 100% to 80%.&#xA;Looks like the filament is cooling noozle to fast.&#xA;In some large prints at the begining (on first layers) I'm reducing speed to 60%.&#xA;This looks like the background temperature is not the same in the center and at the borders.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20819" LastActivityDate="2020-04-17T19:22:57.120" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13447" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-04-17T23:49:37.177" Score="1" ViewCount="371" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can someone please review the picture and tell me things to try to fix, the threads are full of little gaps. The layers that are solid, below the threads have a tiny bit of space between them. Is it underextrusion, or a clog? The bottom layer seems good. Also I have taken a picture of grooves on the filament after the extruder. Is the the groove from the extruder normal?&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CwUd3.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SQew7.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20817" LastEditorUserId="20817" LastEditDate="2020-04-17T23:54:37.617" LastActivityDate="2020-04-18T00:40:17.053" Title="Monoprice select mini underextrusion?" Tags="|extrusion|fdm|underextrusion|monoprice-select-mini|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13448" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13447" CreationDate="2020-04-18T00:40:17.053" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The grooves (notches, more accurately) are acceptable and indicate that your hobbed gear has a good grip on the filament.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many factors will cause your probably-correct diagnosis of under-extrusion. If you are confident that your extrusion settings are correct, you could have this problem from under-temperature on the nozzle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One method to assess this is to increase the nozzle temperature by five degrees C and examine a test print. If the gaps are reduced but do not disappear, consider an additional step or two of five degrees.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are so inclined, locate one of the many temperature tower models and modify them accordingly for your printer. This will give you a good range of temperatures for best results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also note that different filaments will have different temperatures and the temperatures will vary between colors from the same manufacturer and between different manufacturers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastActivityDate="2020-04-18T00:40:17.053" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13449" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12201" CreationDate="2020-04-18T05:54:58.003" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;From the added G-code instructions you can see that the printer is instructed to go down to a height of 0.3 mm (&lt;code&gt;G1 X0.1 Y20 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move to start position&lt;/code&gt;). If the printer nozzle is not at 0.3 mm height, there must be a Z-offset present in the firmware or incorrect placement of the endstop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-01-13T08:25:14.547" LastActivityDate="2021-01-13T08:25:14.547" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13450" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-04-18T19:42:46.970" Score="0" ViewCount="380" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a part I designed, a kind of a frame:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Z6OnB.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Z6OnB.png&quot; alt=&quot;part&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;Into the frame I want to be able to place a flat object of variable (but uniform) thickness - like paper, glass, sheet metal, etc. The inserted object should then be covered by some kind of a lid and secured. The lid should keep the inserted object pressed against the &quot;ledge&quot; you see in the frame. The object in the frame will be repeatedly replaced, so the lid will be repeatedly taken off and placed again. When placed, the lid needs to hold, not fall off randomly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What would be the best/easiest/simplest way to secure the lid? Considering ease of printing, so ideally no supports, as little additional separate parts as possible (but adding a few is not a big problem), etc. The side of the frame you see in the picture can be modified, stuff can be added.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Considered: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;threaded inserts in the corners of the frame, screws through the lid. Screws are a little impractical. Threaded inserts for screws big enough to be practical when handled repeatedly take up a lot of space both in area and depth&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;rubber bands stretched from one side across the lid to the other side. Rubber bands seem a little weak to hold the lid securely, but I guess it could be done.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What methods would you choose?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20856" LastActivityDate="2020-04-19T02:17:00.577" Title="Best/Simplest/Easiest way to secure a lid" Tags="|3d-design|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13451" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-04-19T00:19:47.527" Score="4" ViewCount="763" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am a beginner in 3D printing and recently bought an Ender 3. With the filament included in the package, my first print ever was flawless. However, after the first print, I tried printing with ABS, which did not work out, so changed to PLA, and ever since then, all my prints were under extruded. I have tried everything. I bought a new nozzle to make sure it wasn't clogged, I cut the last 20&amp;nbsp;mm of the PTFE tube, I performed cold pulls, I leveled my bed before every print, made the line width in the profile 0.48&amp;nbsp;mm instead of 0.4&amp;nbsp;mm, increased the flow, tried printing with every temperature between 185-210&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C, looked at different Ender 3 suggested profiles on the internet, and more. I also made sure there was nothing wrong with the extruder. Attached are pictures of my most recent prints. Anyone who can tell me what I am doing wrong???&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PXKIy.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PXKIy.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fF7kh.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fF7kh.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20858" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-04-19T21:25:14.410" LastActivityDate="2021-01-21T01:04:32.393" Title="Ender 3 underextrusion" Tags="|creality-ender-3|underextrusion|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13453" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10881" CreationDate="2020-04-19T01:31:19.677" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just did this lol and checked online to see if anyone else did it too. It works really nice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I used thermal paste and zipties to secure each block to the stepper motor. Dont use thermal tape its not as effective as paste. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had to do this operations since my motors were overheating due to the enclosure design.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MZWVy.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MZWVy.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20859" LastEditorUserId="20859" LastEditDate="2020-04-19T01:40:27.277" LastActivityDate="2020-04-19T01:40:27.277" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13454" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13450" CreationDate="2020-04-19T02:11:00.780" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Don't know how big your parts are, but if repeated use is a concern and you need pressure that screws can deliver, consider screwing on some toggle clamps if you have the real estate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could also make a 3d printed version of one that's sized to your needs.  There are some models available.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20860" LastEditorUserId="20860" LastEditDate="2020-04-19T02:17:00.577" LastActivityDate="2020-04-19T02:17:00.577" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13455" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13436" CreationDate="2020-04-19T05:33:21.333" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This sounds as if you have bought an incorrect heater element, e.g. one for 12&amp;nbsp;V instead of 24&amp;nbsp;V. The CR-10 uses 24&amp;nbsp;V. The 12&amp;nbsp;V cartridge has a lower resistance, so when powered by 24&amp;nbsp;V, the current is much higher and therefore also the heating power (&lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$ {(\frac{24}{12})}^2 = 4 $&lt;/span&gt; times higher). For details on the calculation, the &lt;a href=&quot;/a/13313&quot;&gt;this answer&lt;/a&gt; on question: &lt;a href=&quot;/q/13310&quot;&gt;&quot;PID autotune fails 'Temp too high' with 12 V heater cartridge but works with 24 V?&quot;&lt;/a&gt;. This makes the hotend heat up very fast resulting in a large overshoot. You need to replace the cartridge for one for 24&amp;nbsp;V.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Note that I recently experienced exactly the same problem by mixing up the cartridges see &lt;a href=&quot;/a/13314&quot;&gt;this answer&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2020-04-19T05:33:21.333" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13456" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-04-19T08:58:02.367" Score="0" ViewCount="317" Body="&lt;p&gt;A strange problem occured while 3D printing. I've been printing for a long time now, and I consider myself fairly expeienced. normally, with every problem I've encountered with my printers (Anet, Ender, Prusa), there's always an answer online. However, the strangest thing just happened and I cannot find an answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I upgraded my ender 3 to a 32 bit BigTreeTech SKR v1.3 motherboard with A4988 stepper drivers. I've printed several objects successfully. However, on one simple print, it suddenly stopped working. the LCD was pale blue and flickering slightly. even after turning the printer off, moving the Y axis by hand felt stiff and erractic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Turning the printer on resulted in the same flickering pale blue screen. Doing a power cycle did nothing. at this point, I noticed my MCU and ONE stepper driver was scorching hot (~100&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C) only a few seconds after start-up. I unplugged the Y axis stepper driver from the motherboard and suddenly the printer could turn on again (bootup sequence executed). All the controls on my menu still work (even moving of axes, as tested with working drivers). However, the reading on my thermocouples are all way off now, reading 55&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg; Cat 30&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C room temperature. Note that the MCU was still scorching hot even when doing nothing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some additional info to note, the stepper motors themselves were warm while printing, but not unbearably hot. The Vrefs (current sense resistor 0.1&amp;nbsp;&amp;ohm;) were tuned to supply 0.75&amp;nbsp;A to the axes and 0.9&amp;nbsp;A to the extruder. I also attached small heatsinks to the drivers and have a small fan blowing on them. I'm running marlin-bugfix-2.0.x. also, on the 4th last layer before the print failed, there was a very slight layer shift on the &lt;strong&gt;X&lt;/strong&gt; axis. I've also reflashed the same firmware onto the board, but it's still hot enough to fry an egg. the board also can't connect to Pronterface anymore.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can always swap back with the stock Ender 3 motherboard, but I want to know what's the reason for this tragedy so i can prevent the same mistake.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20862" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-04-19T21:38:39.063" LastActivityDate="2020-04-19T21:38:39.063" Title="Printer froze mid print, stepper motor driver and MCU extremely hot afterwards. MCU seems dead now (?)" Tags="|marlin|creality-ender-3|stepper-driver|heat-management|skr-v1.3|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13457" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-04-19T09:57:07.323" Score="4" ViewCount="2958" Body="&lt;p&gt;I´ve tried tunning printer settings with different Nozzle(190-210&amp;nbsp;ºC)/ Bed(0-60&amp;nbsp;ºC) Temperatures, Fan Speeds (0-100&amp;nbsp;%), Cura and Slicer adjustemens but nothing worked. I still get the same bubbles in the first 3&amp;nbsp;mm of every print. &#xA;I also tried a glass bed and the magnetic bed that comes with Ender 3 pro and the result is still the same.&#xA;The last thing I tried was moving the 0 position of the Z axis 10&amp;nbsp;mm up, but it didn´work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What else could I try? Any idea of which could be the issue. Thanks in advance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xpCwy.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xpCwy.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Q32Pv.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Q32Pv.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20863" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-04-19T21:30:17.277" LastActivityDate="2020-06-19T15:08:25.713" Title="PLA Issue printing first 3 mm with Ender 3 Pro" Tags="|print-quality|ultimaker-cura|creality-ender-3|troubleshooting|diy-3d-printer|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13458" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13457" CreationDate="2020-04-19T12:29:33.027" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It seems like your bed might be too close to the nozzle, hence the large elephants foot (bulge on the first layer). You can try using babystep Z to increase the distance between the nozzle and the bed and see how that works out. I think you might need to reduce the flow multiplier (extrusion multiplier) a little too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20862" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-04-20T11:39:03.890" LastActivityDate="2020-04-20T11:39:03.890" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13462" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6922" CreationDate="2020-04-19T18:12:52.353" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I haven't tried this, but it's possible to melt filament inside a PTFE bowden tube; some have even used this for splicing filaments. The examples I saw were over a flame but controlled heating would probably be better. If you do this, weld the clog to another piece of filament then push or pull once it's started to cool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2020-04-19T18:12:52.353" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13463" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-04-19T18:42:48.883" Score="2" ViewCount="5796" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an Ender 3 for two weeks now, my first 3D printer. I think I have a problem with top layers. See the left 3 stones on the first picture. It looks like lines and it feels like raised lines. The outer lines (walls) are perfectly flat, but the surface in between has heavily raised lines. I started with the standard Cura profile for the Ender 3 and tried .2 and .12&amp;nbsp;mm layer height, 2-5 top layers, 1 to 2 top surface skin layers and 5-20&amp;nbsp;% infill, all gave similar results. The only setting that solved it is the ironing feature (the fourth stone). While this solved it, it feels like I'm hiding an error in my printing with this feature and I would like it to print decently without ironing. The cat shows that my printer prints fine if no top surface is present. I have an Ender 3, upgraded with some fan guards and bowden clips and use Cura 4.5. SKR mini E3 and upgraded bowden tubes are on the way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is this normal?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What could be wrong?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is ironing a commonly used solution?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Any idea what might fix it (apart from ironing)?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zu0Xy.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zu0Xy.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;stones&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ti5RH.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ti5RH.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;cat&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20868" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-04-19T21:28:32.010" LastActivityDate="2020-04-24T22:19:01.827" Title="Raised lines on top layer surface Ender 3" Tags="|print-quality|creality-ender-3|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13464" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12027" CreationDate="2020-04-19T20:22:31.303" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well, I could not track the problem and it lasted till two major updates:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I have changed rods for ones with proper lenght&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I have reset all Cura settings to default&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20141" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-04-19T21:18:18.333" LastActivityDate="2020-04-19T21:18:18.333" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13465" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-04-20T02:13:09.450" Score="2" ViewCount="69" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just got a Dremel 3D20. I unpacked the machine, and raised the bills platform as documented to setup the spool. Then I tried to level the surface and was able to adjust the left and right knobs but not the rear -- the knob came off completely, but the platform was not lowered. It was firmly pushing against the extruder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried to print an object anyway and the rest part of the object was not forming properly as expected.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I cancelled the job. A few hours later, I tried leveling again. This time around the front knobs also started having the same problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I went to the jog mode in the settings screen, and lowered the platform, but it returns to where it was if I try leveling again or print another object.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Printing another object this time around is even worse because the platform completely fails to lower.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's not enough documentation on Dremel's website.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know what's going on?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20875" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-04-20T11:36:07.333" LastActivityDate="2020-04-20T11:36:46.123" Title="Levelling issues" Tags="|extruder|heated-bed|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13466" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13476" CreationDate="2020-04-20T04:34:04.407" Score="4" ViewCount="1000" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does a filament exist that can resist ozone (like certain silicone tubing's can). Most glass bottles come with tin or plastic screw hard tops and I would like to replace the screw caps with something that is more resistant to ozone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason for this is I make my own homemade ozonated oil in glass bottles and I would like to print out different hard screw top caps for some of the bottles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20878" LastEditorUserId="20878" LastEditDate="2020-04-20T07:50:05.697" LastActivityDate="2021-09-13T02:00:02.467" Title="Filament that is resistant to ozone" Tags="|filament|fdm|filament-choice|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13467" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13465" CreationDate="2020-04-20T04:40:16.070" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Something similar happened to me during the firsts weeks of 3D printing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would recommend you to look for real case scenario leveling steps. Leveling is not that simple and sometimes user manuals don't even mention the many issues you may encounter. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Youtube is a great source of other user's experiences:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/JGj1eP3YKi8?start=0&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just keep trying until you make it. Some people give up. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20739" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-04-20T11:36:46.123" LastActivityDate="2020-04-20T11:36:46.123" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13468" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13423" CreationDate="2020-04-20T04:46:24.400" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Things you need to check or do: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use adhesion layers &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Set lower speeds at first layer.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Increase bed temperature (try 5 degrees steps)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Clean the bed&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check if the bed is completely leveled up. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Increase the thickness of the first layer. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20739" LastActivityDate="2020-04-20T04:46:24.400" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13469" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-04-20T04:56:51.180" Score="4" ViewCount="695" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've found many Youtube videos of makers upgrading to BLTouch sensor. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a Creality CR-10S Pro, so far bed leveling hasn't been an issue (after some days of trial and error). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is what are the problems/issues users need to face in order to need (or justify) an upgrade?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20739" LastActivityDate="2022-02-03T22:25:06.703" Title="When do I need to get a BLTouch upgrade?" Tags="|creality-cr-10|bltouch|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13470" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13469" CreationDate="2020-04-20T09:36:20.147" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't know your printer but I don't have BLtouch, and I have to set the height every time because the bed expands with heat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you print at variable bed temperature (PLA, ABS, PETg, nylon require different values) then that sensor helps a lot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;BL touch can also speed up bed calibration: you scan the bed, see the values to be corrected, adjust the bed without having to guess (given the thread pitch and required correction).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, if you print only in the center it's easy but if you print fully using the size of the bed, I doubt you can get very flat bed. The BLtouch helps for that too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, there are clones like 3D touch which were tested and work equally well. Depending on your budget, they may be an interesting alternative.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2338" LastActivityDate="2020-04-20T09:36:20.147" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13471" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13469" CreationDate="2020-04-20T11:19:15.010" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;A touch or an inductive/capacitive sensor is useful when you cannot get prints to stick to the build surface because of a  skew bed platform/heated plate or if the plate has a bend, large concave or convex area.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even with such a sensor, you need to provide a bed that is as level (trammed) as you can get. Automatic Bed Levelling (ABL) is not magic, it is just a tool that can help out if you have a problematic bed surface. But, recent versions of Marlin have &amp;quot;manual bed levelling&amp;quot;; i.e. you can map the surface using your printer without a sensor and store that geometry in memory.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2022-02-03T22:25:06.703" LastActivityDate="2022-02-03T22:25:06.703" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13472" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13474" CreationDate="2020-04-20T11:32:15.947" Score="10" ViewCount="8994" Body="&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I am curious, what is the purpose of printing a single-height outline around the objects to be printed?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Also, how would it affect the outline if the object to be printed extends to (very near) the very edge of the print area?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vEr8Z.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vEr8Z.png&quot; alt=&quot;finished print on print bed, with outlines annotated&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Update, I received a hint that an existing question has the answer; that link was not really to my satisfaction -- but it did link to another one that did: &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/20/what-are-main-differences-between-rafts-skirts-and-brims&quot;&gt;What are main differences between rafts, skirts and brims?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20883" LastEditorUserId="20883" LastEditDate="2020-04-20T12:41:24.910" LastActivityDate="2020-04-24T21:42:54.443" Title="What's the purpose of the &quot;outlines&quot; around prints?" Tags="|bed|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13473" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13472" CreationDate="2020-04-20T11:39:47.207" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;My understand is that's is basically a purging extrusion, so that you get flow through the extruder before you start printing the object, as filament that's been inside the hotend during warm-up might have been &quot;overcooked&quot; by spending too much time in the hotend at temperature. It also helps stabilise the PID loop controlling the extruder temperature by allowing the PID loop to stabilise the temperature of the hotend as it's got filament flowing through it compared to it being idle. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It also shows the user where it intends to start printing, which is a useful check if something went wrong with Gcode generation. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9516" LastActivityDate="2020-04-20T11:39:47.207" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13474" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13472" CreationDate="2020-04-20T12:30:31.093" Score="15" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I am curious, what is the purpose of printing a single-height outline around the objects to be printed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The (equidistant) lines at distance from the print object is called the &quot;skirt&quot;, the skirt is an option found under the &quot;Build Plate Adhesion&quot; options in your slicer. The primary function of the skirt is to get the flow going, but there are more benefits you can get from the skirt:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You can find out whether the bed is correctly levelled, or if the bed has concave or convex areas (the skirt should be a line, I prefer at least 2 lines, of consistent thickness, if not, this may hint to incorrect levelling;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You can find out if there is enough or a sufficient amount of adhesive (e.g. glue stick, hair spray, specific print adhesion sprays like 3DLAC or DimaFix, etc), if not the bed might be greasy or lacking the adhesion product;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You can configure the skirt height to use the skirt as a shield for draft or ooze and distance to product);&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Also, how would it affect the outline if the object to be printed extends to (very near) the very edge of the print area?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do note that a skirt limits the useable build area by the distance and width of the skirt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Basically this has been answered (see &lt;a href=&quot;/a/11303&quot;&gt;this answer&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;/a/11304&quot;&gt;this answer&lt;/a&gt;) in a different question (&lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11300/random-lines-are-being-printed&quot;&gt;&quot;Random lines are being printed?&quot;&lt;/a&gt;), but it might be beneficial to answer this question rather than closing this for a dupe.  This question is focussed on the skirt, the equidistant lines around the print object, while the other question focuses on the priming line.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="8353" LastEditDate="2020-04-24T21:42:54.443" LastActivityDate="2020-04-24T21:42:54.443" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13475" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-04-20T15:42:31.863" Score="1" ViewCount="45" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are there any defacto standards for interfacing between common 3D printers and custom extruders or other tooling? I was thinking how it would be good to have switchable nozzle widths mounted on the same heat block and switched between using a solenoid so you could have say a 0.25&amp;nbsp;mm for surface layer and details, then swap to 0.6&amp;nbsp;mm for the infill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What would be the path of least resistance so it could be accessed in generic firmware? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The design I was thinking would be similar to a generic aluminium heat block with two nozzles screwed in side by side with there inputs meeting in an inverted Y junction with its center drilled out and replaced by a rod with appropriate channeling to divert the already molten plastic between nozzles. Turning the rod would be done from a solenoid mounted somewhere behind the heat-break.with a clamping mechanism.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20889" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2020-04-21T13:13:37.450" LastActivityDate="2020-04-21T13:19:39.877" Title="Any defacto standards for controlling new tooling options on generic 3D printers (firmware control and signaling)?" Tags="|firmware|electronics|hardware|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13476" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13466" CreationDate="2020-04-20T17:55:17.743" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If making your own caps ends up being the best solution, TPU (thermoplastic polyurethane) is probably your best bet. I don't have specific information on printed TPU filament and ozone, but TPU is widely regarded as one of the most chemical-resistant materials you can easily print with, and &lt;a href=&quot;https://ozonesolutions.com/blog/ozone-compatible-materials/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this page by Ozone Solutions&lt;/a&gt; rates polyurethane (no mention of specific types) A/Excellent described as:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ozone has &lt;strong&gt;no effect&lt;/strong&gt; on these materials. They will last indefinitely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Being at least slightly flexible, TPU will also yield a good seal without any additional gasket. You should probably choose an unpigmented &amp;quot;natural/clear&amp;quot; TPU filament in case the pigments do react.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It might (probably would) also work to coat an existing cap with polyurethane. I'm not sure how you'd best get it to adhere, but lightly sanding the plastic then using a spray in multiple coats is what I'd try first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastEditorUserId="11157" LastEditDate="2021-09-12T15:21:32.590" LastActivityDate="2021-09-12T15:21:32.590" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13477" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13482" CreationDate="2020-04-20T18:46:19.953" Score="1" ViewCount="1098" Body="&lt;p&gt;As I want to print with multiple colors I plan to upgrade my Ender 3 with the &lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/wiki/Diamond_Hotend#Electronics_setup&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;diamond hotend&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So far I found all information I need, except what power supply I need for my &lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/wiki/RUMBA&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;RUMBA board&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I use the default Ender 3 power supply or do I need an additional power supply or wires?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Parts I am going to order:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1x Lite6 Heatsink&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;3x Diamond Universal mount&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1x 12&amp;nbsp;V 40&amp;nbsp;W 6&amp;nbsp;mm x 20&amp;nbsp;mm Cartridge Heater Reprap For 3D Printer&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1x Thermistor 100K 1&amp;nbsp;% NTC Temperature Sensor Line for 3D Printer&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1x Fan 50x50x15&amp;nbsp;mm 12&amp;nbsp;V 125&amp;nbsp;mA&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1x Diamond Hotend Insulator&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1x Nema17 stepper motor 48&amp;nbsp;mm 1.8&amp;deg; 42BYGHW804 1.2&amp;nbsp;A 5.5&amp;nbsp;kg•cm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;3x MK8/9 Dual Extruder Feed Device Part For 3D Printer 1.75&amp;nbsp;mm Filament&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;3x Bowden tube 1&amp;nbsp;m with fitting 4/2&amp;nbsp;mm (for 1.75&amp;nbsp;mm filament)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1x RUMBA 3D printer controller board&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;6x StepStick DRV8825 Stepper Motor Driver&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user20891" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-04-20T21:42:50.063" LastActivityDate="2020-04-20T21:50:25.210" Title="Upgrade Ender 3 with Diamond Hotend" Tags="|creality-ender-3|power-supply|diamond-hotend|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13478" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-04-20T18:53:15.350" Score="2" ViewCount="1972" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have changed stock Anet A8 board (Anet v1.5) to new SKR 1.4 with TMC2209. Then I found out these lines on the walls, I don't know how to determine it. Previously this wasn't so visible, but now it bothers pretty much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uyP5h.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Benchy with layer lines prominently shown&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uyP5h.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Benchy with layer lines prominently shown&quot; title=&quot;Benchy with layer lines prominently shown&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6oRAT.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Calibration Cube with layer lines prominently shown&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6oRAT.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Calibration Cube with layer lines prominently shown&quot; title=&quot;Calibration Cube with layer lines prominently shown&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20892" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2021-11-20T06:47:47.757" LastActivityDate="2021-11-20T06:47:47.757" Title="What can these horizontal lines be caused by?" Tags="|print-quality|anet-a8|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13479" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13478" CreationDate="2020-04-20T19:49:39.213" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Looks like an over/under extrusion. This can be fixed by:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;decreasing/increasing your extrusion multiplier (flow)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fiwKr.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fiwKr.png&quot; alt=&quot;Flow parameter in Cura&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;lowering your print temperature&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JAN9d.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JAN9d.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;checking the diameter of your filament. Do you use the correct diameter?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fkRjJ.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fkRjJ.png&quot; alt=&quot;Diameter option of material in Cura&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user20891" LastActivityDate="2020-04-20T19:49:39.213" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13480" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13451" CreationDate="2020-04-20T20:32:09.250" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The helical exterior is an indicator of a filament diameter mismatch or volumetric mode enabled for linear commands&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.reddit.com/r/ender3/comments/f0ik8k/volumetric_extrusion_psa&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;ref&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Then you probably enabled volumetric extrusion by accident.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;On LCD go to&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Control&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Filament&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Disable&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Save EEPROM&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Revert estep cal if applicable.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;What is it? &lt;a href=&quot;https://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M200.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;M200&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Its a feature of Marlin firmware which interprets E moves as mm&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt; instead of linear mm. It is poorly described in the menu, and tends to be enabled by accident.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20893" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-04-21T04:48:31.133" LastActivityDate="2020-04-21T04:48:31.133" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13481" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13426" CreationDate="2020-04-20T21:35:35.540" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could try out &lt;a href=&quot;https://create.arduino.cc/projecthub/abdularbi17/how-to-scan-i2c-address-in-arduino-eaadda&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this Arduino sketch&lt;/a&gt; and see if the Arduino can find the sensor on the bus, but I'm fairly certain that the chip has developed a fault and stopped responding to I²C commands, hence the error, or it's giving a value that's outside the limits set in the firmware. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd also recommend getting in touch with Prusa Research, they have very good support and can tell you what part you need for your machine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9516" LastActivityDate="2020-04-20T21:35:35.540" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13482" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13477" CreationDate="2020-04-20T21:50:25.210" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The RUMBA boards run up to 36&amp;nbsp;V, so reusing the (24&amp;nbsp;V) power supply from your printer should be fine. As the 2 extra steppers do not take much extra power (note you are ordering only 1!), your supply should be sufficient. Note that a 12&amp;nbsp;V heater cartridge is not going to work on a 24&amp;nbsp;V board (you'll get a massive overshoot and probably over-temperature warnings and printer shutdowns).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2020-04-20T21:50:25.210" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13483" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13403" CreationDate="2020-04-21T04:18:41.287" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;UPDATE 3-May-2020: I have now confirmed that the problem was the extruder. Specifically, the input port which was causing the filament to bind. The front of the input port is a metal ring but the back is just plastic and and has worn from the PLA filament, as seen in this photo:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Xv8wp.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Xv8wp.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Close up of back of extruder port&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;After some delay (see my other question &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/13557/need-sanity-check-debugging-non-functional-extruder&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;) I have installed the new, all-metal extruder (original stepper), the clacking is gone as well as the significant under-extrusion. (I also replaced the Bowden tube and print bed springs but I don't believe these were the problem).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having seen what a few km of PLA did, I highly recommend upgrading the extruder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Side point: immediately after the replacement, I started getting corners lifting off the bed which I hadn't seen before. I realized that the new drive gear was slightly smaller than the old so I checked the extruder calibration and it was about 10% low. I adjusted the extruder steps/mm from 93 to 99 to correct for this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Original:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It appears the problem was the filament binding in the entry to the extruder assembly. I did start seeing signs of under extrudement such as the outer layer of a rectangular object separating of the rest of the body. Later, the problem became worse, with a lot of clanking, to the point that prints became quite fragile.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have ordered a all-metal extruder assembly and will update as I get new results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By the way, I'm really not sure why it's binding but running a strip of filament through the entrance hole, it sure seem to be binding. But in trying to disassemble the extruder and starting by removing the filament, I managed to get molten filament in the bowden tube. Without thinking about it, I pulled the blob all the way into the fitting for the extruder, plugging it so much that I cannot get the fitting off nor push it back into the tube. Anyway, I'm taking the opportunity to upgrade the extruder, tube and springs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20164" LastEditorUserId="20164" LastEditDate="2020-05-03T18:46:24.327" LastActivityDate="2020-05-03T18:46:24.327" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13484" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13475" CreationDate="2020-04-21T11:29:58.353" Score="1" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Generally: nozzles are not changed, the whole tool head is&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While &amp;quot;tool change&amp;quot; is easy to implement in a G-code and could be easily adapted in the firmware, there are several practical issues to hot-swapping nozzles without swapping the whole hotend assembly:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The hotend is a fluid-dynamic system that needs to be sealed to operate under pressure and temperature.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The seal of the nozzle-heatbreak system is in most systems a metal-on-metal pressure seal&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rubber seals are not an option in a system that runs over 180°C&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Moving metal seals are very hard to make and run smoothly.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Your idea: especially &lt;strong&gt;No&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is literally no way to design a turning Y-switch that fits the following bills:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;sealed&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;filament path ~2 mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;screw-in diameter for heatbreak and nozzles M6&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;creates enough free space between the lower outlets to mount 2 M6 nozzles with enough space to hold a wrench (=15mm diameter of centers)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;fit into the form factor of a conventional heater block&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your idea would need to be considerably larger, need a stronger heater element and creates an impossibly to clean area around the turning junction peg. Atop that, you would trade 1 area of possible leak (between heatbreak and nozzle) for 3 areas of possible leaks (nozzle-block and heatbreak block) and one area of guaranteed leak (the turning peg).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;How is it done then?!&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Currently, there are the following ways to swap between different of nozzles mid-print that have been proven to work somewhat reliably:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;fixed independent print heads with independent carriages.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;fixed independent nozzles and heaters on one carriage.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;swapping print heads on one carriage.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first design is used for example in the Leapfrog Bolt, combined heads are for example the &lt;a href=&quot;https://e3d-online.com/hotends/multi-extrusion&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;e3D Chimera, Cyclops and Kraken&lt;/a&gt;. e3D also designed on a reliable printhead - or rather tool  - swapping system starting about 2018 and did release it to the public in &lt;a href=&quot;https://e3d-online.com/blog/2019/04/18/toolchanger-the-update-youve-all-been-waiting-for/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;late 2019&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Type 1 needs you to level the printheads well and to the same height in the easy case, but with the right setup of firmware, a Z-offset of the two tools can be included and compensated for - possibly even automatically. Type 3 does usually demands you to include very accurate offsets of the used tools or includes a way to measure the offset during operation, though I lack insight into how e3D solves it. Both setups can mitigate oozing of the unused nozzles out of the printing volume.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Type 2 not only demands hyper exact leveling, but it &lt;em&gt;also&lt;/em&gt; is very prone to create some sort of oozing of the unused nozzle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:29:41.667" LastActivityDate="2020-04-21T11:56:02.367" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13485" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13475" CreationDate="2020-04-21T13:19:39.877" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Tool change is M06 (then some value specifying what change to occur). You will need to implement the necessary changes in the firmware to support whatever electronics is required to perform the tool change (eg stepper driver | hobby servo, mosfets to run the solenoid).&#xA;Once done, your slicer now has to do the work of knowing that there is a different nozzle size for different parts of the model. I know of no, slicer that can do that for different sizes on the same layer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for your idea: manual &quot;tool changes&quot; might be a better way to go, otherwise you would have to put the entire hot end on a carousel.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.polync.com/2019/08/hotend-ejection-mechanism/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Proposed hot end ejection mechanism&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;The link (authored by me) describes a fast removal system for manually changing the hot end nozzles before prints. The electronics would need to be connected via pogo pins so that the installer doesn't need to connect any wires. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Further in this video (&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=11&amp;amp;v=RMoyh84kEiw&amp;amp;feature=emb_logo&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Printhead swapping&lt;/a&gt;), the author shows a magnetically attached and registered quick swap hot end, which can even swap the extruder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12857" LastActivityDate="2020-04-21T13:19:39.877" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13486" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8318" CreationDate="2020-04-21T16:52:55.977" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Thank you folks.  The issue was bad/old resin and left in the tank too long.  Replacing all my stocks with fresh and following rigorous stirring and decanting I now have resin curing well during the print.&#xA;Sorry to have taken so long to get back to it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14605" LastActivityDate="2020-04-21T16:52:55.977" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13488" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-04-21T21:57:05.927" Score="1" ViewCount="136" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an Ender 5 that I meticulously calibrated with good success and was regularly getting great print quality with PLA. I stopped using it for a couple of months and when I resumed (without having changed anything), anything I print with support material is a real problem. The supports are really fused to where they touch the part and even tend to melt into the part. It ruins the print and isn't remotely removable without damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've tried the other advice I've found here and from other sources: printing at cooler temps, increasing print cooling, checking bed leveling, etc. I was setting support in Cura, but switched to MeshMixer, which didn't improve the problem. Also, I had been using zig-zag pattern support, and lowered the density in settings, switched to tree supports...but nothing helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Before I resort to getting into granular settings to tweak how the supports are generated, am I missing something bigger, more general or more obvious? I find it strange that an idle printer started having such a specific problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17218" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-04-22T05:56:07.487" LastActivityDate="2020-04-23T06:13:38.723" Title="PLA support material suddenly a problem on Ender 5" Tags="|extrusion|support-structures|support-material|creality-ender-5|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13490" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13466" CreationDate="2020-04-21T23:02:56.323" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.calpaclab.com/polyetherether-ketone-peek-chemical-compatibility-chart/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.calpaclab.com/polyetherether-ketone-peek-chemical-compatibility-chart/&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.polyfluor.nl/en/chemical-resistance/peek/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.polyfluor.nl/en/chemical-resistance/peek/&lt;/a&gt; PEEK is very resistant to ozone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PEEK does cost about as much per gram as silver.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4922" LastActivityDate="2020-04-21T23:02:56.323" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13491" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-04-22T04:19:16.583" Score="1" ViewCount="2252" Body="&lt;p&gt;Before it stopped working, the stepper motor worked very well and didn't show any problem. I experienced this after I fixed a filament problem. The filament got stuck soI retracted to pull the filament out of the heat nozzle. But when I finished this, the extruder didn't work anymore...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I restarted the system but it didn't work. All the motors work fine, even the extruder motor. The A4988 driver has the right voltage at 1.0&amp;nbsp;-&amp;nbsp;1.2&amp;nbsp;V. I have already replaced my RAMPS shield and AtMega board, but it still does not work! I changed the extruder motor to another axis port and it worked good. The voltage input is stable at 11.2&amp;nbsp;V&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can't figure out why the extruder motor is not working for the extruder port?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20389" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-04-23T13:54:01.953" LastActivityDate="2020-04-23T13:54:01.953" Title="Why did my extruder motor stopped working?" Tags="|extruder|motor|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13492" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13304" CreationDate="2020-04-22T12:07:05.190" Score="3" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The driver has a potentiometer to change the voltage that is giving to the motors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[...]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As one person answered me in another question, I would need 3.2 V to make the motor work well (2. Ω * 1.3 A = 3.2 V).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You are misunderstanding that answer and what the potentiometer does. The potentiometer does not control the voltage going to the motors. It makes no sense to compare this voltage to the rated voltage of the motor. The potentiometer controls the &lt;em&gt;current&lt;/em&gt; going to the motor, with a potentiometer voltage of 0V corresponding to 0% of the driver's current, and a potentiometer voltage of 2.5V corresponding to 100%. The documentation of your driver is a bit unclear but it looks like the maximum peak current is 1A per phase or 0.7A RMS (per phase).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a file in the Marlin firmware (Configuration_adv.h) where I can set the current that the driver is going to give to the motors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This only works if the driver is set to SPI mode, otherwise the setting is ignored. To enable SPI mode you need to remove the jumper resistor labeled &amp;quot;SPI&amp;quot; mode and make connections to the long pins sticking out the top of the driver. This configuration option &lt;em&gt;overrides&lt;/em&gt; the current setting set by the potentiometer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I am going to do is to set the drivers potentiometer to the maximum and check what happens. And I will also set the current in the Marlin to 1838.5mA&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's not such a good idea. It would be wiser to set the potentiometer relatively low, and increase it just enough so that the motors do not skip steps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As the drivers have less voltage to give to the motors, are my drivers going to burn because they will have to give more current for a long period of time?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No, because the drivers do not have &amp;quot;less voltage to give to the motors&amp;quot;. They don't work that way. They are constant current drivers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or will the stepper motors burn because they won't get enough current or voltage?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No. The only thing that could cause the motors to burn is (far) too much current or voltage. This will never happen because your drivers will burn up before the motors ever would.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keep in mind that in the question you linked to, one answer is more detailed than you can reasonably understand with your level of electronics knowledge, and the other answer is completely wrong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Summary&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The current setting in configuration_adv.h is irrelevant unless you have enabled SPI (but I doubt that you have)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Do not start out with the potentiometer set to maximum&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Everything will be fine. The motor can handle more current than the driver can ever deliver. The driver you have is configured so that it can never exceed its rated current.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Regarding your update&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, if you are using SPI current control then the potentiometer is ignored.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The TMC2130 can handle 1.2A RMS per coil, though the datasheet notes that more than 1A RMS per coil requires special attention to heat dissipation (the small breakout PCB probably does not have great thermal properties).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your calculation is overly conservative because it treats the 1.2A figure as peak current when RMS current is meant. You do not need to divide by &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$\sqrt{2}$&lt;/span&gt; to convert to RMS because the figure already is RMS.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:29:41.667" LastActivityDate="2020-04-22T19:30:51.693" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13493" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13491" CreationDate="2020-04-22T14:10:25.863" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;When you pulled the filament out of the extruder you most likely induced a voltage back into the stepper driver which fried it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12857" LastActivityDate="2020-04-22T14:10:25.863" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13495" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15663" CreationDate="2020-04-23T03:33:33.140" Score="1" ViewCount="1803" Body="&lt;p&gt;When my Ender 3 prints a top or bottom layer, it leaves a line on the layer. &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ij6ei.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ij6ei.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SErLK.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SErLK.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Slicer Cura&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Linear Advance: 0.57&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Retraction: 3&amp;nbsp;mm @ 35&amp;nbsp;mm/s&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Max Speed: 100&amp;nbsp;mm/s&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ironing enabled&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Minimum wall flow: 20&amp;nbsp;%&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Temperatures: 205&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C hotend and 65&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C bed&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My belts are tight enough as I push them they spring back up. I bought a support block for my Z lead screw to help with z banding (I also removed it to see if it will fix the issue but it didn't). I tried 50&amp;nbsp;mm/s, No Infill, swapped out to brand new 0.6&amp;nbsp;mm nozzle (the picture has 0.4&amp;nbsp;mm), Minimum wall-flow to 0&amp;nbsp;% but no improvement. It has to lead me to think its a mechanical issue but I am not sure where to start. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20928" LastEditorUserId="20928" LastEditDate="2020-04-24T17:59:39.633" LastActivityDate="2021-02-22T17:19:11.020" Title="Surface artifacts when formation of object changes (Layer inconsistency)" Tags="|print-quality|creality-ender-3|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13496" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13488" CreationDate="2020-04-23T04:08:10.583" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As the commenter suggested (thanks, 0scar!), the culprit appears to have been a Cura update and a change to the support material settings. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my case, the defaults for Z distance and even the X/Y distance for support material, in addition to the density, was creating very effective supports, but very tricky to remove. I should add that the model was a character sculpture, which I've since learned creates much more complex support scenarios versus the more uniform models I've been accustomed to printing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17218" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-04-23T06:13:38.723" LastActivityDate="2020-04-23T06:13:38.723" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13497" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13512" CreationDate="2020-04-23T06:24:33.977" Score="2" ViewCount="23226" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm new to 3D printing, I bought an Ender 5 Pro just recently. Trying to print with 1.75&amp;nbsp;mm PLA, but the results are very bad, unfortunately. When I got after bed leveling I got a decent result from the demo dog and started to print small things, where the quality was acceptable. Then I tried to switch to bigger items, but the printing failed half-way due to not enough adhesion. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There were other quality problems too with this print, and you can already see that in the walls there are holes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/utBc7.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/utBc7.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did another round of bed leveling and Z alignment to make sure the adhesion is good and a test print came out quite fine in all corners and the center. The one layer rectangles and not perfect, in some places the lines separate, but they are mostly fine. But now I have a different problem: all the prints are very messy, less clear, they are not as strong as before and also there are big holes now in the walls. &#xA;The same statue base (as I had to stop after getting messy earlier) looks like this now:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KNJx5.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KNJx5.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another try failed after a few hours (like printing stopped and was printing nothing in the air), but also there is the holes/gaps problem even more visible:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8ekTR.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8ekTR.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally as a test I printed an object with the same G-code as previously used and the result is much different. The object on the left is the new one. It is weak, you can feel by pressing that the walls are not solid, they bend. The rectangle &quot;eyes&quot; are also not clear:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5ZJAu.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5ZJAu.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a difference though, I changed the extruder's nozzle between, the new one was also in the Ender package, it is also 0.4&amp;nbsp;mm as the original should have been, I changed to try with a new one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because of the last test with the same gcode, different result, I think the problem might be in hardware adjustment as well, not only software. Anyone has an idea what I'm doing wrong?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT 1&lt;/strong&gt;: after calibrating the extraction amount and reducing the print temperature from 200 C to 190 C, now I get the below result. The values used:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bed temperature: 65 C initial, 60 C for the rest&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Print temperature: 200 C initial, 190 later&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Print speed: 80 mm/s&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wall speed: 40 mm/s&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Retraction: 10 mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Retraction speed: 80 mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wall thickness: 0.8mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Layer height: 0.2 mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Initial layer: 0.2 mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Line width: 0.4 mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3bS73.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3bS73.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT 2&lt;/strong&gt;: Based on the comments, some changes were made and here are the results.&#xA;XYZ cube, &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;print speed reduced to 60 mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;layer height 0.12 mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Z Seam Alignment is Sharpest Corner&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Infill density 30 %&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Retraction distance 8 mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Retraction speed 40 mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It looks good, the layers are visible though, some ghosting right to X and Y.&#xA;The sizes are not correct though: X = 20.07 mm, Y = 20.03 mm, Z = 19.84 mm&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/maCpd.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/maCpd.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are X/Y acceptable? What should I do with Z, increase steps/mm ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally here is the 3D benchy too, although looks mostly fine, there are some bumps in the walls and small strings in open areas. This was printed earlier and with different settings though:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Layer Width 0.2 mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Print speed 80 mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Retraction 10 mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Retraction speed 80 mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Z Seam Alignment is set to Random&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Csmzr.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Csmzr.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT 3&lt;/strong&gt; I tried now to print the PolyPearl, that has thin curving lines. The first try failed after 2 hours, a knob developed on the nozzle that ruined the print. This was printing with 190 C. I gave a new try and printed with 200 C, and amazingly it completed the job. See below the pictures, here are my settings for it (changes for Cura 4.6.0's default Super Quality):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Layer height: 0.08 mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Initial layer height: 0.12 mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wall thickness: 1.2 mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Z Seam Alignment: Sharpest Corner&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Print speed: 60 mm/s&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Infill acceleration: 1000 &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$mm/s^2$&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Print acceleration: 300 &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$mm/s^2$&lt;/span&gt; (default is 500)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Print jerk: 8 mm/s (default is 10)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Retraction distance: 8 mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Retraction speed: 40 mm/s&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The model sticks well to the glass plate even without glue or hair spray, maybe a little too well. I see some problems though, not sure how normal they are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;outside area of first layer is not nice&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;there is some oozing, thing lines on the surface and between the columns&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the top end of the tower is somewhat messy and there is a horizontal line attached to it (sure, can be removed easily)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the bottom is very smooth, I can see the glass' texture (the Creality glass top is textured) and the texture of the very first failed print, when I didn't take into account the extra height of the glass after leveling, and the print head hit it hard and the nozzle got completely damaged. Beginner's fault.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are the images: &lt;a href=&quot;https://photos.app.goo.gl/ZfuMFFedL171eLeM7&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://photos.app.goo.gl/ZfuMFFedL171eLeM7&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are this problems normal/acceptable?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20931" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2020-04-24T12:24:26.367" LastActivityDate="2023-02-25T23:59:37.000" Title="Gaps/Holes in the 3D Print walls" Tags="|print-quality|troubleshooting|creality-ender-5|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="17" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13498" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13491" CreationDate="2020-04-23T11:46:44.427" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have found an answer. So dumb‍♂️‍♂️. It need to heat up nozzle before use extrude or retract command&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20389" LastActivityDate="2020-04-23T11:46:44.427" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13499" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13502" CreationDate="2020-04-23T13:50:10.240" Score="4" ViewCount="1673" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just got into 3D printing with an Ender-3 Pro. The test dog printed great, some custom small/thin objects printed good, and now I tried my first big object.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Designed in Tinkercad (&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.tinkercad.com/things/1JZRKfOQHxr&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;link to my (updated) design&lt;/a&gt;), exported to .stl, sliced and printed using Cura 4.5.0 with the default 0.2 mm profile (3 layers wall thickness) and 100% infill (for strength), with the extruder at 200 °C and bed at 50 °C. Ambient temperature had been 25-ish °C.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The filament is a brand-new Spectrum Premium PLA (Arctic White). On its box it says it prints at 185-215 °C.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I got this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Z76pt.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Z76pt.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;On the magnetic bed (front)&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7oAAI.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7oAAI.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;On the magnetic bed (back)&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xjdhi.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xjdhi.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;One leg - lower layer view&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LY4Li.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LY4Li.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;One leg - side view&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3lLI8.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3lLI8.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Other leg - side view&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The top (thinner) sections look OK-ish (there are some visible lines, but meh), but the transition from the bottom sections (thick) to the top has terrible layer separation and warping problems. One side of the base is actually barely holding together when I'm holding it. There is also a smaller problem mid-way at that side of the base, but it's not catastrophic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Why did that happen? What did I do wrong? How can I print it again and get it nice and strong?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;s&gt;2) I have a handheld &amp;quot;3D print pen&amp;quot;. If I use it to fill the gaps manually, how strong will the part be? The part is meant to &amp;quot;hug&amp;quot; the iPad charging port, so that you can hold the iPad in the bed while charging, without pressing the cable on your body and damaging it.&lt;/s&gt; nvm that&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using wall thickness of 4, layer height 0.16 mm, 30% infill and 205 °C extruder, this is my (successful) result.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/518RF.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/518RF.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Successful result on the magnetic bed&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/b3BDb.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/b3BDb.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Successful result in action&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also repaired that broken part. Did it for the aesthetics, but it feels quite strong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6t2Zb.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6t2Zb.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Repaired with 3D pen&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20934" LastEditorUserId="20934" LastEditDate="2021-07-09T21:18:48.750" LastActivityDate="2021-07-09T21:18:48.750" Title="Ender-3 Pro - PLA mid-layer warping (layer separation) - salvageable?" Tags="|creality-ender-3|adhesion|infill|warping|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13500" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13499" CreationDate="2020-04-23T14:53:43.980" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The reason for this sort of error might be either &#xA;1) a clogged nozzel, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bg4sOaSvimY&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;try doing this &lt;/a&gt;&#xA;2) disturbed bed level,&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lL3Gmy4hh3Y&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;resolve this issue &lt;/a&gt;&#xA;3) poor filament quality,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20715" LastActivityDate="2020-04-23T14:53:43.980" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13501" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-04-23T14:56:56.760" Score="1" ViewCount="142" Body="&lt;p&gt;I own a Creality Ender 3 printer, and have been printing on it for about a year.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I thought it might be fun and instructive to build a Neutron printer (&lt;a href=&quot;https://cobyhuang.com/ATOM-Neutron&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://cobyhuang.com/ATOM-Neutron&lt;/a&gt;) using my Ender 3 to print the parts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Neutron printer can use either an E3D hotend, or an ATOM 2.5 MK3 hotend.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think that the E3D hotend is more common, so I think that is the one I'll go with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It occurs to me that the heater block for an E3D hotend uses an M6 thread for the heat break and the nozzle. Likewise, my Ender 3's heater block also uses M6 threads.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is my question, it is possible to replace the heater block and nozzle on an E3D hotend with a heater block and nozzle from an Ender 3? Not that I'd disassemble my Ender 3 mind you, but it would be nice to have one set of interchangeable parts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20935" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2020-08-23T10:04:00.047" LastActivityDate="2020-09-22T11:02:05.217" Title="Hotend on a Neutron printer: E3D vs MK8" Tags="|e3d-v6|makerbot-mk8|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13502" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13499" CreationDate="2020-04-23T15:28:45.770" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;One hundred percent infill is not necessarily stronger than lower values. By having such a high infill figure, the forces on the model as it cools are magnified and not in a particularly good manner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Consider that you could use twenty to thirty percent infill to get the strength you require for this application, saving filament and time for the print. You've not noted how many wall layers used, but for increased strength, four to five would make for a very strong model.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastActivityDate="2020-04-23T15:28:45.770" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13503" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13510" CreationDate="2020-04-23T16:14:40.817" Score="1" ViewCount="300" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got a Renkforce RF1000 which should be a good 3D printer. I got it second-hand for my birthday one year ago. I've got no way of contacting the old owner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I spend a good amount of hours fine-tuning the slicer settings last year but at best got mediocre prints. Between September and a week ago I lived somewhere else and didn't touch my printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now here's what I don't know:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I don't know what parts are replaced&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I don't know what my nozzle size is&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I don't know if the limit switches are calibrated correctly&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Though I think they are. This doesn't seem to be a problem. I did re-calibrate the Z-axis&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are some important details:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I use 3 mm Renkforce PLA filament which I print at 190 °C on a bed heated at 60 °C. The PLA is over one year old now.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There's a fan on the motor on top that isn't connected to anything.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are some of the problems I've got:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I've had multiple prints failing due to the extruder not working properly. The motor keeps on spinning but the &amp;quot;feed knurl&amp;quot; remains stationary&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I can't seem to get the right extraction settings&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I can't seem to get my prints to consistently stick. It tends to work when I heat the bed to 60 °C and use glue and get lucky.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Feel free to give any thoughts you've got. These are the most important questions I've got:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Should I replace the nozzle with &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.conrad.com/p/renkforce-nozzle-v2-03-mm-suitable-for-3d-printer-renkforce-rf1000-renkforce-rf2000-1296238?searchTerm=renkforce%20nozzle&amp;amp;searchType=suggest&amp;amp;searchSuggest=product&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this one&lt;/a&gt; so that I know what nozzle I've got and so I'm sure this isn't a problem?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Should I replace the filament with new 1.75 mm PLA? If so, why?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How do I fix the extruder?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I tried getting the &amp;quot;feed knurl&amp;quot; off but can't seem to do this easily. I've got some super glue I could try to put in there but something's telling me this might be a very bad idea...&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol start=&quot;4&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is the unconnected fan important and if so: what do I do with it? There's no remaining wire to connect it to.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How tight should the 4 screws that hold the filament between the extruder and the rolling disk be?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For now, these are all hardware problems. I can post my Slic3r settings too but I believe the hardware should be fixed before going into slicer settings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are some pictures showing the problems:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ynZ9v.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ynZ9v.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Top image one&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the extruder. The feeding mechanism can be seen in front. It shows the &amp;quot;feed knurl&amp;quot; of which the inside spins while the outside remains stationary (question 3). Next to it are 4 screws which determine how tight the filament is held against the extruder (question 5). On the back it shows a black fan, this got placed by the previous owner but isn't connected (question 4).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Cu0UM.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Cu0UM.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Image unconnected fan with unscrewed extruder&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This image shows the unconnected fan (question 4) to the right. Behind it is the motor that's connected to the extruder. The motor works but the extruder doesn't spin with it. The extruder has a little black hole on top.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WyWj2.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WyWj2.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Front view extruder&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This shows the extruder from the front. The inner layer spins, the outer layer doesn't (question 3)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yZd1o.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yZd1o.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Failed print example&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These are some of the prints when the extruder was still working.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zdToY.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zdToY.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Nozzle and print bed&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Nozzle and print bed (question 1)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14693" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-07-25T21:54:39.260" LastActivityDate="2020-07-25T21:54:39.260" Title="Can you help me improve my Renkforce RF1000 print quality?" Tags="|extruder|troubleshooting|renkforce-rf1000|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13504" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-04-23T20:51:28.257" Score="3" ViewCount="1770" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an Ender 3 with a lot of mods.  Of note, a cheap direct drive kit, linear rails for the Y axis, an upgraded &quot;silent&quot; mainboard and TH3D's firmware. But this issue goes back a long ways, yet I've not seen any really good examples of this particular issue in various faqs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All of my vertical edges, especially when they are 90°, have raised lips in a very precise, repeated fashion. It's small, maybe a quarter millimeter in diameter, so it rarely is a problem, but occasionally it messes with the dimensionality of a print with tight tolerances.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had suspected the problem might have been related to using acceleration/jerk settings, but I disabled them for the print below and got a perfect example case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CKAvc.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CKAvc.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other things I've tried: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;calibrating E-steps (I've done this many, many times, only to find the E-step number changes with speed and temperature anyway).  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Deliberately underextruding.  This actually doesn't help.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Slowing prints way, way down.  Also doesn't seem to have an impact, at least down to 20mm/s.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;changing slicers. This problem happens with Cura, Simplify3d and PrusaSlicer.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;replacing my nozzle with a fresh one, which should have cleared up any existing clogs or leakages from a worn nozzle.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After a lot of searching on the subject, I found &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/issues/9494&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this bug report&lt;/a&gt; for Marlin, the first case of over-extruded corners I've found that look at all like mine. What I find especially interesting is that changes to Marlin around version 1.1.8 have introduced the issue for some people who previously didn't have the problem.  This seems to suggest it's not necessarily a hardware issue, but a bug in software.  I'm considering testing out a downgrade to a 3-year-old version just to see if that alone makes a difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12489" LastEditorUserId="12489" LastEditDate="2020-05-28T19:49:07.263" LastActivityDate="2020-05-28T19:49:07.263" Title="Raised lips on sharp vertical corners" Tags="|creality-ender-3|dimensional-accuracy|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13505" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13577" CreationDate="2020-04-23T21:23:04.590" Score="1" ViewCount="435" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to diagnose a print issue that &lt;em&gt;looks&lt;/em&gt; like a missed layer (sorry, first-time printer here)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/O4bIZ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/O4bIZ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;side-view&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;and&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QOlZL.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QOlZL.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;top-view&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Specs:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Printer: QIDI Tech X-Plus (direct drive).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Material: PLA.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Extruder temp: 200&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bed temp: 60&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C (70&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C first layer).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Print speed: 60&amp;nbsp;mm/s (actually 48&amp;nbsp;mm/s on non-infill because of &lt;code&gt;min_layer_time&lt;/code&gt;).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Retraction distance: 2&amp;nbsp;mm.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Started from a new printer: I was getting imperfect prints (lesser version of this, functional part) and contacted QIDI support. They eventually replied that my bed was too low but I had since lowered the bed on a misdiagnosis. They supplied a slightly modified G-code but that also failed in a similar way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since then, I've been raising the bed bit by bit to try to fix this issue. I don't care about the little whiskers much, but the solid &quot;connecting lines&quot; are a problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is this actually a bed-leveling/height issue?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What is this defect called (whatever the cause)? I've been googling but can't find something that looks like this.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is there a better way of fixing bed height issues than just printing-&gt;tweaking bed height-&gt;printing?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd appreciate any help diagnosing this issue - even if it's just the name of this problem. I have no experience disassembling/looking at hardware but I could always give it a shot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Update&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As per comments I took a look at &lt;code&gt;coasting&lt;/code&gt; and ran some tests. I first re-leveled the bed manually (I'll call that height=0). I don't want to add tons of pictures so I'll show the baseline, and &quot;bad&quot; refers to similar failure as above.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;+--------+--------------+------------+-----------------------+-----------------+--------------+-------------+&#xA;|        | Combing      | Coasting   | Retraction distance   | Extruder temp   | Bed height   | Results     |&#xA;|--------+--------------+------------+-----------------------+-----------------+--------------+-------------|&#xA;| Test_1 | infill only. | off.       | 2.0 mm.               | 200 C.          | 0.           | Baseline.   |&#xA;| Test_2 | infill only. | off.       | 2.0 mm.               | 200 C.          | +0.05 mm.    | ~ Baseline. |&#xA;| Test_3 | off.         | off.       | 2.0 mm.               | 200 C.          | 0.           | Bad.        |&#xA;| Test_4 | infill only. | off.       | 1.5 mm.               | 200 C.          | 0.           | Bad.        |&#xA;| Test_5 | infill only. | off.       | 2.0 mm.               | 190 C.          | 0.           | TBD         |&#xA;+--------+--------------+------------+-----------------------+-----------------+--------------+-------------+&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(+/- 0.05 mm height achieved with clicks of &quot;fast leveling&quot;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Test 1 external view:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Mi53A.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Mi53A.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;test_1_out&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Test 1 internal view:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/amP77.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/amP77.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;test_1_in&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Update&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think I've confirmed an &lt;strong&gt;under-extrusion&lt;/strong&gt; problem. Here is a top layer printing I stopped partway through.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YCgJH.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YCgJH.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;test_5_top_layer&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This looks exactly like &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/gaps-in-top-layers/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Simplify3D's Guide&lt;/a&gt;. So I manually pushed through, removed, and re-inserted the filament - and cleaned the nozzle with a brush.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I then ran a new print and noticed a clicking sound in the extruder (I don't know if it's new or if I simply noticed because I was focused on under-extrusion problems) - the print failed in the same &quot;dragging&quot; way as above, but the top layers were slightly better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm now going through the list of possible causes of clicking extruder + under-extrusion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20939" LastEditorUserId="20939" LastEditDate="2020-04-26T00:21:14.920" LastActivityDate="2020-05-03T06:28:09.127" Title="Partially missed / dragged layers" Tags="|print-quality|extrusion|layer-height|qidi-tech-x-plus|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13506" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13409" CreationDate="2020-04-23T21:36:43.197" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This looks a lot like layer shifting, both gradual and sudden.  This is frequently caused by excessive friction on one axis, the one along which the print is leaning.  You mentioned tightening the X-axis; if these are leaning along the X axis, chances are good the belt is too tight and causing something (either the belt or the toothed gear it is attached to) to rub against something else (the frame, the v-slot extrusion, the motor itself in the case of the belt gear).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both the X and Y axes should be fairly easy to move by hand with the power off.  Feel for any points where that isn't true.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12489" LastActivityDate="2020-04-23T21:36:43.197" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13508" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13504" CreationDate="2020-04-24T01:44:10.693" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the amount of time spent by the head near the corner is significantly longer than what's spent per unit time elsewhere, you will get more extrusion at the corners and thus this effect. High print speed combined with low acceleration/jerk limits give you this effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using a lower print speed should make it go away because it takes very little time to accelerate up to (or decelerate down from) a low nominal print speed from (to) the max cornering speed allowed by acceleration/jerk settings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using (much!) higher acceleration/jerk limits can also make it go away, but can cause other print quality problems and even layer shifts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Right Fix for this problem is upgrading your firmware to a version of Marlin with the &lt;a href=&quot;https://marlinfw.org/docs/features/lin_advance.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Linear Advance&lt;/a&gt; feature and calibrating it. Then the printer automatically compensates for this issue by varying the pressure at the nozzle to get consistent extrusion rate regardless of changes in speed. I've had very good luck with this on my Ender 3, with a calibration constant K=0.6 for PLA and significantly larger ones for flexible filaments (the constant is essentially the spring constant of the filament for the length of filament path between the extruder gear and the nozzle).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't want to replace the firmware, though, increasing acceleration and jerk limits and lowering speed should work ok. Your machine should be able to handle 3000 mm²/s acceleration on X and Y axis, with 10 mm/s &quot;jerk&quot; (the units of jerk are weird because it's not actually jerk; see &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10369/why-does-jerk-have-units-of-mm-s-rather-than-mm-s%c2%b3&quot;&gt;my question on the topic&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2020-04-24T01:44:10.693" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13509" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13503" CreationDate="2020-04-24T07:45:25.960" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;ol&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Should I replace the nozzle with this one so that I know what nozzle I've got and so I'm sure this isn't a problem?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That is not really necessary. The exact nozzle size does not really matter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Should I replace the filament with new 1.75 mm PLA? If so, why?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No, there's no reason to do that. Going from 3&amp;nbsp;mm to 1.75&amp;nbsp;mm filament usually requires replacing the entire extruder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;How do I fix the extruder?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tighten the grub screw (the &quot;black hole&quot;) with a hex key.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Is the unconnected fan important and if so: what do I do with it? There's no remaining wire to connect it to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The fan appears to be cooling the stepper motor. This shouldn't really be necessary, the stepper should be fine without any additional cooling. People tend to &quot;upgrade&quot; their printers by adding unnecessary bells and whistles so it is possible the original owner added this fan just because they wanted to, and not because it is necessary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;How tight should the 4 screws that hold the filament between the extruder and the rolling disk be?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tight enough that the extruder grips the filament and is able to extrude it consistently. If it is too tight it might deform the filament too much which could cause printing problems but it should be obvious if this is the case. There is a wide margin here so don't worry about this too much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-04-24T07:54:52.743" LastActivityDate="2020-04-24T07:54:52.743" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13510" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13503" CreationDate="2020-04-24T07:50:12.887" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Should I replace the nozzle with this one so that I know what nozzle I've got and so I'm sure this isn't a problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It appears the default nozzle size is 0.3&amp;nbsp;mm. The linked nozzle is a direct replacement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;How do I fix the extruder?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &quot;feed knurl&quot;, usually called the extruder gear is attached to the stepper shaft using a fine grub screw (&quot;threaded pin&quot; is a bad choice of words...). The black hole you mention is the hole of the screw (it should be in there, usually an allen key or flat screwdriver should be used). Position it so that the screw is tightened against the flat spot on the stepper shaft.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Should I replace the filament with new 1.75 mm PLA? If so, why?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the PLA has been open for a year and not stored properly it could have taken up moisture, I would buy a new spool (3.0&amp;nbsp;mm) of filament, not 1.75&amp;nbsp;mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Is the unconnected fan important and if so: what do I do with it? There's no remaining wire to connect it to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The fan doesn't look as if this is a default fan, this fan is mounted onto cooling fins probably put there by the previous owner to cool the extruder stepper. Maybe the printer has been enclosed and used to print ABS at elevated temperatures. For Printing PLA cooling the extruder stepper would not be necessary as it doesn't require an elevated print temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;How tight should the 4 screws that hold the filament between the extruder and the rolling disk be?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The 4 screws need to be tight enough for the extruder gear to leave indentations on the filament, but not too deep.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-04-24T10:26:48.843" LastActivityDate="2020-04-24T10:26:48.843" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13511" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-04-24T11:12:43.387" Score="1" ViewCount="113" Body="&lt;p&gt;My supports 'grid' prints with empty spaces (after stoping extraction over perpendicular lines) &#xA;(BTW. I have checked the direction when it appears and it has nothing to do with coastig)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4JVuS.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4JVuS.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(the end result is: extra filament sticks to nozzle forming 'big bomb' and end up with screwed printout due to layers shift)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Printer: Qidi X-Plus&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Slicer: Qidi Print 5.3 based on CuraEngine 2019/09/24 &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Retraction: 3&amp;nbsp;mm, 30&amp;nbsp;mm/s &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Filament: PET-G Spectrum&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Temperature: 220&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bed temperature: 80&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Speed: 60&amp;nbsp;mm/s&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What could be the reason? This is particularly evident on PETG.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20946" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-04-27T06:25:53.123" LastActivityDate="2020-05-27T19:05:25.530" Title="PET-G grid print problem" Tags="|support-structures|petg|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13512" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13497" CreationDate="2020-04-24T11:58:59.837" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Let's see what kind of errors I see (accumulated from what I commented):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Underextrusion&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The legs seem rather underextruded. This could be a clogged nozzle as much as too fast printing or too low a temperature as well as too little pressure (e.g. miscalibrated extruder). Try a cleaning or a fresh nozzle, other playing with the parameter can wait after you fixed the next big issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To fix the under extrusion if it persists after fixing Ringing, experiment with the following settings:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check the mechanical system. Make sure that the extruder &#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;has no defect. I had seen a lot of under extrusion when my extruder lever broke. The gear turned but did no longer push the filament.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;does press the filament well with the idler bearing into the hobbled gear.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;is properly calibrated according to the physical parameters. Use the Extrusion multiplier to account for different materials.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Temperature. If extrusion comes bad, increasing it in 5 °C steps can help.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Ringing/Ghosting&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The cube with the indentations shows it best: There is a massive ringing happening. This is an effect that happens when the printer changes directions fast - the printhead can't accelerate and decelerate with infinity, as it has momentum, and as a result oscillates around the new path a little, like a sinus ring. This creates a &quot;ghost&quot; of the preceding path changes on a flat face, which is why I asked to print a cube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To fix Ghosting and Ringing, there are 2 software fixes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;reduce print speed. &#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;this comes at the cost of longer print times&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;work out better maximum acceleration and jerk&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Reducing the maximum acceleration some (down to between 500 mm/s² to 1000 mm/s²) can massively better the quality at little to no effect on total print time, and keep your print speed up.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Jerk is the derivate of acceleration; finding out the two values that might be best for your printer setup can be a lot of experimentation.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is also a hardware design way to reduce it in many designs by shaving off weight from moving parts or stiffening up the construction:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Get a lighter printhead&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;remove unnecessary &lt;em&gt;addons&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;swap for a lighter printhead design&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;changing to a Bowden design&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;in CoreXY: use lighter rails&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Stiffen the construction&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Adjust the mounting of the carriage in such a way that it is better constricted&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;change out bearings and bushings for ones with tighter tolerances&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;bracings can massively stiffen a portal and cube design&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Height inaccuracy&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This could stem from any of several sources. In descending order of likeness:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the first layer is not a multiple of the actual layers (e.g. 0.12 instead of 0.2 mm) leading to a partial layer at the top being cut. in the example this would result in a &lt;strong&gt;fixed negative error&lt;/strong&gt; about 0.08 mm.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a miscalibrated first layer. Depending on your leveling skills, this can account for a &lt;strong&gt;fixed error&lt;/strong&gt; of up to 0.1 mm for a bad calibration to 0.025 mm for a really good calibration. This error can appear both positive and negative.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Z-Axis inconsistencies from a misaligned leadscrew, a sticky leadscrew, or insufficient Z-stepper voltage. Both would usually create a systematic error - as in printing a given &lt;strong&gt;percentage&lt;/strong&gt; loss of height. Such inconsistencies can be fixed by solving the mentioned issue: check orthogonality first, then gently oil the screw with light machine oil (not WD40!), finally increase motor voltage slightly. Only if your results are massively out of whack, you should check if your steps/mm are set correctly. But I don't see the need in this case.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2020-04-24T13:53:40.730" LastActivityDate="2020-04-24T13:53:40.730" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13513" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-04-24T17:31:55.343" Score="2" ViewCount="567" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got a second-hand Renkforce RF1000 &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/13503/hardware-issues-id-appreciate-your-thoughts-on/&quot;&gt;which I've gone into more detail about in this question&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The extruder works however, I get some inconsistent results. First I printed a calibration cube and noticed huge gaps in the bottom layer. Because of this, I increased the extrusion multiplier to 1.05. I noticed there still were some gaps but also other issues, I then printed one with the extrusion multiplier reset to 1.0 and a negative Z-offset. The results are shown below. In every image, the left cube has multiplier 1.0 and the right cube has multiplier 1.05.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ck0aI.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ck0aI.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Calibration cube results&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then, for a better idea about the consistency, I printed a hollow pyramid. This shows some heavy stringing. However, when printing a retraction test I barely get any stringing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6k7P7.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6k7P7.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Pyramid front&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xVr9R.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xVr9R.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Pyramid bottom&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PKOB1.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PKOB1.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Stringing test&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know what could cause these inconsistent results? I assume some hardware tweaks might be needed, not just slicer settings. Any help is appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I use Slic3r&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I use 3&amp;nbsp;mm PLA printed at 190&amp;nbsp;°C on a 60&amp;nbsp;°C bed with some glue (doesn't stick without). The first layer is 200&amp;nbsp;°C with a 65&amp;nbsp;°C bed.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;After three layers the fans are enabled. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I have a negative Z-offset, it probably isn't calibrated 100&amp;nbsp;% correctly&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I don't know the nozzle size (a new one is being shipped) but use a size of 0.5&amp;nbsp;mm in the slicer&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;retraction length 2&amp;nbsp;mm &amp;amp; 60&amp;nbsp;mm/s&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;minimum travel after retraction 1&amp;nbsp;mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Print settings:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BDarM.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BDarM.png&quot; alt=&quot;Settings&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT:&#xA;After the recommendations I've changed the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;All belts have been recalibrated&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The e-steps have been recalibrated through &lt;a href=&quot;https://all3dp.com/2/extruder-calibration-6-easy-steps-2/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; method. Couldn't do a wall measurement due to a lack of precise tools. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Changed first layer temperature to 210&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C and other layers to 205&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Added two top layers&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I printed two new cubes. One without glue and with a Z-offset of 0.05&amp;nbsp;mm and one with glue and with a Z-offset of 0.15&amp;nbsp;mm. The results are quite comparable to the original ones although slightly better. Any recommendations? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm aware of some cooling issues on my prints. Once a new nozzle arrives I plan on printing the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2239814&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;current cooling system&lt;/a&gt; again. It's not really blowing air right effectively now. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3nAbj.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3nAbj.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Cubes from below. Offset written on the bottom&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DDwb8.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DDwb8.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HM3FS.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HM3FS.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14693" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-04-27T22:16:34.353" LastActivityDate="2020-04-27T22:16:34.353" Title="Inconsistent printing results using same settings but different calibration models" Tags="|pla|slic3r|renkforce-rf1000|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13514" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13524" CreationDate="2020-04-24T18:35:26.360" Score="1" ViewCount="58" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm building a device that requires five 12&amp;nbsp;V valves to be programmatically controlled as a switch. So far, I have been able to get outputs from the heated bed, extruder, and fan to be controllable through Marlin, by defining &quot;SENSITIVE_PINS&quot; to be an empty array. I can now use &lt;code&gt;M42&lt;/code&gt; to switch these pins on and off, allowing for programmatic control of 3 of the 5 valves. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the other two valves, I'd like to control these directly from the 3D printer board somehow. I noticed the A4988 driver will rapidly flick a 12&amp;nbsp;V output on and off according to the microstep setting (&lt;a href=&quot;https://lastminuteengineers.com/a4988-stepper-motor-driver-arduino-tutorial/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://lastminuteengineers.com/a4988-stepper-motor-driver-arduino-tutorial/&lt;/a&gt;). But this type of flicking is not really good for controlling a valve, because I want the valve to remain open until I say  &quot;stop&quot;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I would like is to be able to use the &lt;code&gt;M42&lt;/code&gt; to command to administer a 12&amp;nbsp;V output on or off from the motor section of the usual boards. The A4988 driver takes in inputs like &lt;code&gt;Enable&lt;/code&gt;, &lt;code&gt;Step&lt;/code&gt;, and &lt;code&gt;Dir&lt;/code&gt; from Arduino pins. Is there any way I can &quot;hack&quot; the A4988 driver to provide a constant voltage, similar to a relay switch? Alternatively, can I remove the driver and do something with the female pins that are normally used to connect to the A4988 driver?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In researching this I have noticed that when removing the driver, you expose some more 12&amp;nbsp;V female and GND pins on your board, which can provide an easy connection to a third-party relay or h-bridge. But ideally, I would be able to do this without adding any new hardware to the board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This question is on-topic because it has to do with 3D printer boards that are currently on the market and because it is ultimately a device that is used to 3D print something. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10369" LastEditorUserId="10369" LastEditDate="2020-04-25T22:50:58.967" LastActivityDate="2020-04-25T22:50:58.967" Title="Getting a programatically-controlled, constant 12 V from one of the motor outputs" Tags="|marlin|stepper-driver|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13515" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13513" CreationDate="2020-04-24T20:23:36.500" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;First of all, I would try printing a little bit hotter, let's say arround 210&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C. Secondly, due to how the X and Y letters are being printed in the sides of the cube I would suggest to tigthen both the X and Y belts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regarding the gaps, I would first try a flow rate test. You could use a cube like &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2490893&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this one&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;extrusion multiplier = 1&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;layer height: 0.2&amp;nbsp;mm; &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;layer width= 0.4&amp;nbsp;mm ; &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;wall count= 2. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then measure the walls with a caliper and you should have 0.8&amp;nbsp;mm walls. Do a couple of measurements, get the average and divide  0.8 by it  and multiply by a 100 (100*0.8/average). That's your new flow rate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would also try to add 1 or 2 top layers to the print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the first layer, I would definitely get a glass bed and use hairspray. The bottom of the pyramid doesn't seem to be sticking well. Apart from this, I'm not really fan of using Z-offset. Just try leveling a couple of times manually with a paper to get it right.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20704" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-04-25T21:11:39.850" LastActivityDate="2020-04-25T21:11:39.850" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13516" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13525" CreationDate="2020-04-24T22:12:46.453" Score="2" ViewCount="1576" Body="&lt;p&gt;I’m building my new 3D printer and I have a doubt. I’m using limit switches on the 3 axes, but only the MIN switches. I also have another three switches which I want to use as MAX switches. How can I do that? I mean, if I insert a specific measure of the plate in Marlin and than the extruded stops before of the limit of the plate due to the MAX endstop what will happen? What should I do, upgrade to MIN and MAX endstops or only keep the MIN ones?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20955" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-04-25T21:13:48.920" LastActivityDate="2020-05-25T22:05:10.610" Title="How do the MAX endstops work?" Tags="|marlin|endstop|axis|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13517" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13463" CreationDate="2020-04-24T22:19:01.827" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would firstly do a flow rate calibration:&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2490893&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2490893&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;print this using: 0.2 mm layer resolution;0.4 mm layer width; wall count= 2; infill=100%&#xA;print it at the same temperature you printed the cat.&#xA;measure the walls width a couple of times in different places, get the average and then do : 100*0.8/average. the result is your new flow rate or extrusion multiplier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would then do a E-step calibration, use this: &lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/lWBkPIXTOlo?start=0&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you have this two parameters, re-print the block. I would suggest to print not faster than 50 mm/s and raise it by 5 mm/s if you see the thing is going right. Try a typical grid-20 % infill with 3 top layers and 1 superficial layer (usually you shouldn't need more than one). For these trials try scaling the blocks by 50% so you don't waste that much material. Try not to use the ironing function yet, you should get a uniform surface without it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The weird thing is the holes pattern you get in all the pieces. Just in case, tighten your x and y belts, re-level your bed and try moving the extruder with your hand (gently) to see it doesn't wobbles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20704" LastActivityDate="2020-04-24T22:19:01.827" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13518" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-04-25T00:34:57.003" Score="0" ViewCount="432" Body="&lt;p&gt;So, I've been building a very sturdy 3d printer (also in the future hopefully a cnc router), strongly based on this: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.instructables.com/Arduino-Controlled-CNC-3D-Printer/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Arduino Controlled CNC / 3D Printer Hybrid&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm using a RAMPS (1.4, will upgrade to 1.6 in a few days), M542T drivers and NEMA 23 motors, I got everything to work pretty well already, but so far, I haven't connected the motor enable pins from the RAMPS to the drivers. But, I don't actually get what they are good for, I think I know what they do, when a signal is sent to them (sort of lock or unlock the movement of the motor), but the printer looks to be working fine. Still, I wanted to connect them just to have everything made properly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found a problem, when I tried to connect enable pins, I'm not using stepper drivers which plug into the RAMPS, so I have to run cables between them. When the X/Y/Z_ENABLE_ON in marlin are on 0 (active low) are set, everything works, well as it should I guess (or inverted I'm not sure if the M542Ts need high for enabling the motors or low), I connected the pins and when I try to move any axis, it doesn't, when I disconnect the cable the given axis moves, so I was thinking that they need high signal to work. Went to marlin, se enable_on to 1 (active high), went back, had everything connected, everything moved. But, I tried to disconnect the individual wires to see if it works as it should (when disconnected the motors shouldn't turn when given a signal I thought). The X axis moved when enable was connected or disconnected, Z also, Y one motor was moving regardless of enable connection, 1 behaved even weirder, moved in only one direction. I have pul+, dir+ and enable+ connected to 5V, pul-, dir-, enable- to the RAMPS as in this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://3dtoday.ru/upload/main/b03/%...%B0%D1%802.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://3dtoday.ru/upload/main/b03/%...%B0%D1%802.jpg&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tho I have also seen it the other way somewhere, like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-qvM7BrO1wE...mps_TB6560.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-qvM7BrO1wE...mps_TB6560.png&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(the M542Ts have 5V in parenthesis next to the pul+, dir+ and ena+ inputs, so I thing the way I have it right now I have it correctly, but I don't even know what could be wrong to be honest)&#xA;How would I get these to work correctly?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can you better explain to me what they actually do? Also, could you perhaps help me a bit with the connections and Marlin settings to get them to work for the bigger drivers?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20956" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2023-11-28T21:21:11.167" LastActivityDate="2023-11-28T21:21:11.167" Title="Enable pins with RAMPS and M542T stepper drivers" Tags="|marlin|ramps|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13519" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13520" CreationDate="2020-04-25T02:07:41.443" Score="1" ViewCount="1477" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently purchased a BIGTREETECH SKR mini E3 V1.2 and need to adjust some of the settings in configuration h to accommodate for my custom built 3d printer. In the past I've used the RAMPS 1.4 board and adjusted the firmware in the arduino IDE. What is the best way/recommended way to do this for the mini E3 V1.2.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20505" LastEditorUserId="4922" LastEditDate="2021-04-21T13:21:06.347" LastActivityDate="2021-04-21T13:21:06.347" Title="How to access BIGTREETECH firmware" Tags="|marlin|firmware|bigtreetech|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13520" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13519" CreationDate="2020-04-25T07:10:47.400" Score="1" Body="&lt;h1&gt;Basics&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Firmware can be distributed in 2 ways:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;As a compiled file (for example as .hex).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;As an uncompiled repository (as in a preconfigured marlin distribution) that needs to be compiled at the users' side.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;compiled file&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Compiled files &lt;strong&gt;can't&lt;/strong&gt; be altered easily. The only way to change settings after installation is to send the correct commands via a &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10573/what-is-a-printer-console-terminal&quot;&gt;console&lt;/a&gt; to alter the settings in the SRAM then save the new settings into the EEPROM via &lt;a href=&quot;https://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M500.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;code&gt;M500&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/a&gt; from the &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11438/m502-will-reset-all-configurable-settings-to-their-factory-defaults-which-set/11440#11440&quot;&gt;M50X family of commands&lt;/a&gt; - and hoping that EEPROM was activated in the firmware to begin with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;uncompiled distribution&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To alter an uncompiled Repository, you can follow the basic path in &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/12153/updating-marlin-firmware-step-by-step-guide&quot;&gt;Updating Marlin Firmware - Step by Step Guide&#xA;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:29:41.667" LastActivityDate="2020-04-25T07:10:47.400" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13521" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-04-25T12:00:19.583" Score="1" ViewCount="154" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Mars-like 3D printer, which so far worked very well with typical resins. Then I decided to print a mechanical part with Siraya Blu. I followed their recomendations of a &quot;heavy&quot; support, which means columns of a diameter of 1.2&amp;nbsp;mm minimum. The setting are 14&amp;nbsp;s (60&amp;nbsp;s) exposure, 60&amp;nbsp;mm/min (40&amp;nbsp;mm/min) lift/retract speeds, in parentheses the bottom layers.  Temperature 25&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C, the printer is leveled.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The object would have an even, well-defined resolution everywhere if there weren't some large &quot;empty patches&quot; directly below the support platform and of the height of about 1&amp;nbsp;mm, that damage the support structure, which in turn warps the printed object. The photo shows the problem. Everything prints very well apart of the inside of the blue patch, where the flat part of the platform is perfectly empty, no columns, no platform fringe, the flat part itself prints as it should (and sticks well to the build plate). The stray fragment of a column is a left-over after cutting off the platform with a knife.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KXnIl.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KXnIl.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The patch has crisp borders - outside, the columns are well printed and precisely round, inside the patch there is just the flat support part, followed by the object warped because of the momentary lack of support (the support shows again a millimeter or so later as round islands, the black arrow points to one). The object's layers gradually self-correct and print with the same high quality everywhere, inside the blue patch or not. So I assume the FEP film is okay, as the empty patch has only about 1&amp;nbsp;mm height and above/below it the precision is very good, as seen within the cyan ellipse. Also, other resins (all much more fluid, Blu is very viscous for the extra toughness) print with no problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are 2 or three similar empty patches in this print elsewhere, but this is the largest one. Any idea what can it be? Trapped air bubbles? I did several tests with different settings, the problem persists. I increased the exposure time to 18&amp;nbsp;s and cannot increase it even more as this resin has a tendency of a &quot;remote polymerisation&quot; of overhangs. Changing lift/retract speeds does not help or help minimally, but I didn't go below 40&amp;nbsp;mm/min. Siraya Tech's recommendations are verbose but say nothing about the retract speed anyway. If these are bubbles, why the flat part of the support platform prints everywhere? To see if it has something to do with the bottom layers I tried different numbers of them, but the problem always starts exactly below the flat part, and not few layers sooner or later.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19813" LastEditorUserId="19813" LastEditDate="2020-06-01T07:07:20.033" LastActivityDate="2020-06-01T07:07:20.033" Title="Empty patches with a very viscous resin" Tags="|print-quality|sla|resin|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13522" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13519" CreationDate="2020-04-25T13:23:53.483" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The previous answer is good, but here's one specific for Bigtreetech. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Install platform.io. I use the command-line interface (CLI)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Modify your marlin files. You can clone existiing firmware for your board from the BigtreeTech Github for your board. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Remove microUSB card from your Bigtree tech board&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Plug microUSB card into microUSB reader, and the microusb reader into the computer. You should be able to read your microUSB card&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Enter the command in the root directory of your Marlin files: &lt;code&gt;platformio run -e STM32F103RC_bigtree_USB&lt;/code&gt;. At least, this is the one for my board. You should have to run this in one folder before the &lt;code&gt;Marlin&lt;/code&gt; folder. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It creates a file called &lt;code&gt;firmware.bin&lt;/code&gt; in the directory &lt;code&gt;.pio/build/STM32F103RC_bigtree_USB/firmware.bin&lt;/code&gt;. Copy it to your microUSB card, replacing and deleting any existing &lt;code&gt;.bin&lt;/code&gt;. You can use the name &lt;code&gt;firmware.bin&lt;/code&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Remove microSD card from computer and plug into board.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In your Marlin &lt;code&gt;Configuration.h&lt;/code&gt; file, there should be a variable called something like &lt;code&gt;MACHINE_NAME&lt;/code&gt;. If you make that name custom, then it will appear in the Octoprint terminal when connecting to your board, letting you know that you have updated the firmware. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10369" LastEditorUserId="10369" LastEditDate="2020-04-25T16:22:57.647" LastActivityDate="2020-04-25T16:22:57.647" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13523" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19105" CreationDate="2020-04-25T18:30:09.507" Score="3" ViewCount="2033" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm new to printing resin miniatures for Dungeons &amp;amp; Dragons and most of my prints are successful, i.e. one or more miniatures print as expected.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However when I have multiple minis on the build plate the one in the middle works okay but the ones on the edges don't adhere to the build plate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I limit myself to one or two minis in the center of the build plate? Or should it work and I just need to get my settings correct?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note I'm using a Beam 3D Prism printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20947" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-04-25T21:20:01.310" LastActivityDate="2022-06-21T13:05:50.917" Title="Multiple objects on build plate" Tags="|resin|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13524" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13514" CreationDate="2020-04-25T20:32:32.807" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is easy. Leave the driver in. Connect to the first two wires usually used by the motor output. I.e. this is usually where the nema 17 motor goes. The first two wires are your output to the valve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Use M42 to control the ENABLE pin. Bringing the pin high creates a 0V output. Bringing the pin low creates a 12V output.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10369" LastActivityDate="2020-04-25T20:32:32.807" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13525" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13516" CreationDate="2020-04-25T21:44:04.787" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should see MAX endstops similarly as MIN endstops, or as an additional option to protect the printer:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Similarly seen as MIN endstops, you would define in the firmware that you are using them to set a reference point at maximum values, your offsets and bed dimensions would be calculated from the MAX positions;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You can configure the MIN endstops and have additional MAX endstops set beyond the bed size dimensions. If the printer would encounter a layer shift causing the nozzle to go beyond the printer (MAX) boundaries, the printer shuts down when the MAX endstop is triggered.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2020-04-25T21:44:04.787" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13526" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13528" CreationDate="2020-04-26T05:58:11.507" Score="1" ViewCount="833" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was just about to start using my 3D printers heated bed to warm a chemical reaction in a container and was thinking it would be great to be able to get the bed stepping back and forth to stir the pot.&#xA;Can anyone already up to speed in programming G-code walk me through a quick and dirty way to get the X-axis on my old Printrbot metal doing a couple of micro-steps either way in an endless loop? Or suggest some software out there that could achieve the same effect? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20889" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-04-26T08:10:04.277" LastActivityDate="2020-04-27T07:49:02.850" Title="How to make a printer bed vibrate using g-code (heated chemical stirrer)?" Tags="|g-code|desktop-printer|scripts|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13527" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13526" CreationDate="2020-04-26T06:30:39.250" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Never mind, figured the quickest dirtiest way myself - created a tall thin cylinder shape model in Blender and positioned it in Repetier so the printer head will be clear of the table as it moves. Then just broke off the filament that was currently in the printer so it will stop feeding once the current piece gets to the end of the feeder wheel. - not an endless loop but should give me a good 10 or 20 minutes of agitation before I need to restart the print if necessary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20889" LastActivityDate="2020-04-26T06:30:39.250" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13528" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13526" CreationDate="2020-04-26T08:25:19.653" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Basically you need to write a G-code file yourself. This is a plain text file with a &lt;code&gt;.g&lt;/code&gt; extension.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You need to home the printer with &lt;code&gt;G28&lt;/code&gt;, then move the Y axis all the way forward (for a Prusa style printer) with &lt;code&gt;G1 F1500 Y{ymax}&lt;/code&gt; (where &lt;code&gt;{ymax}&lt;/code&gt; is the length of the bed). Now raise the head with a similar command &lt;code&gt;G1 F500 Z{zmax}&lt;/code&gt; (where &lt;code&gt;{zmax}&lt;/code&gt; is the height of the printer volume).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Heating the bed is done with &lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#M190:_Wait_for_bed_temperature_to_reach_target_temp&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;code&gt;M190 S60&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/a&gt; (set and wait to reach 60&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can now rock the Y axis by moving it fast, e.g. with &lt;code&gt;G1 F5000 Y{ymax-5}&lt;/code&gt;, &lt;code&gt;G1 Y{ymax-1}&lt;/code&gt;, &lt;code&gt;Y{ymax-5}&lt;/code&gt;, &lt;code&gt;Y{ymax-1}&lt;/code&gt;, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2020-04-26T08:25:19.653" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13530" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13531" CreationDate="2020-04-26T09:34:19.323" Score="1" ViewCount="398" Body="&lt;p&gt;I previously set up my Ender 3 with a precompiled binary of Marlin that already had the correct X and Y offsets for the attached BLTouch. Now I'm compiling my own, and rather than measure for myself I'd like to just use the same numbers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I send &lt;code&gt;M851&lt;/code&gt; through the terminal, it gives me the current value for the probe's Z offset from the extruder. I know I can also use &lt;code&gt;M851&lt;/code&gt; to &lt;em&gt;set&lt;/em&gt; the X and Y offset, but there doesn't seem to be a way to &lt;em&gt;read&lt;/em&gt; the current values.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any way to query the printer for the current values of &lt;code&gt;X_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER&lt;/code&gt; and &lt;code&gt;Y_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER&lt;/code&gt;? Or, ideally, for any other arbitrary variable?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16902" LastActivityDate="2020-04-26T10:47:01.307" Title="How can I determine the current value of a #defined variable?" Tags="|marlin|g-code|bltouch|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13531" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13530" CreationDate="2020-04-26T10:47:01.307" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&quot;#define&quot; is a feature of the compiler preprocessor and isn't a feature of Marlin. So there is no general way to recover the value of a &quot;#define variable&quot; (which isn't actually a variable at all) unless Marlin explicitly provides the option.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the current version of Marlin M851 will report the X and Y offsets. It appears you have an older version which does not do this. In older versions there appears to be no option to recover the value.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastActivityDate="2020-04-26T10:47:01.307" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13532" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-04-26T12:01:17.620" Score="1" ViewCount="2563" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am experiencing some retraction noises with my Titan Extruder. At first the noise was more of a clicking noise, and the gear was skipping. I didn't feel any backlash with my finger but I still followed the official troubleshooting guide on backlash and the noise has changed to some sort of buzzing, with print quality noticeably improving.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I should mention I recently upgraded my stepper drivers to TMC2208, extruder set to 1.31V. May be too much but I know the extruder motor needs a whole lot of torque, either way it doesn't run too hot so I'm keeping that for now. (If anyone knows how warm should a motor feel during normal operation let me know.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have two videos of the noise before and the noise after. I can't tell where this noise is coming from, I have never heard weird motor noises before so I can't tell if it's still the extruder or if it's the motor. I can't tell if it's normal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried feeding filament in and out with GCode to find out the feedrate at which the noise goes away, and I found that anything above F2200 makes it do this noise, otherwise it's a pretty normal noise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Before: &lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/ehFJtVuKZeM?start=0&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After: &lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/rmdWcJdKziI?start=0&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19406" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-01-14T14:14:09.453" LastActivityDate="2021-01-18T11:12:52.917" Title="Titan extruder retraction noise" Tags="|extruder|stepper-driver|motor|retraction|e3d-titan|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13533" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-04-26T12:45:40.010" Score="2" ViewCount="1447" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Marlin one can enable &lt;a href=&quot;https://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M122.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;continuous debug reporting of Trinamic drivers&lt;/a&gt; with the command&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;code&gt;M122 S1&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This sends lines similar to the following over the serial connection:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;X:93/28/0||    Y:35/14/-|IF|   Z:54/28/0||    E:176/25/0||&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Each driver appears to report three integer values and some flags. I understand the &lt;code&gt;F&lt;/code&gt; flag indicates an error state, for example the overtemperature pre-warn condition (OTPW).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What do the other values mean? How can this information be interpreted to debug printing problems or improve performance?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8264" LastActivityDate="2020-05-27T11:02:05.213" Title="How to interpret Trinamic driver continuous debug reporting?" Tags="|marlin|stepper-driver|tmc2130|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13534" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-04-26T17:53:10.423" Score="1" ViewCount="22" Body="&lt;p&gt;Out of the blue I’ve noticed my m200 has been skipping through menu options as if someone is pushing and scrolling the control knob randomly. Then getting a print off today I got several small electric shocks off the print bed through the spatula. Does anyone have experience of this or to I have a £1500 paperweight?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11110" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2020-04-26T18:08:40.107" LastActivityDate="2020-09-23T19:05:30.643" Title="Zortrax m200 skipping through menu options on it own and live print bed" Tags="|troubleshooting|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13535" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13534" CreationDate="2020-04-26T18:12:16.453" Score="1" Body="&lt;h1&gt;This sounds really concerning.&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Instantly&lt;/strong&gt; remove the machine from the power and check &lt;strong&gt;EVERY&lt;/strong&gt; wire if it might be broken!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check if your power supply is properly grounded!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check if the connectors of the bed are undamaged!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:29:41.667" LastActivityDate="2020-04-26T18:12:16.453" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13536" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9872" CreationDate="2020-04-26T19:13:35.863" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here's how I got it to work. I set the heat bed to 110°C and disabled the underlayer of the raft layer. I set the BVOH and the ASA to 235°C after the 4th layer I set the heatbed to 90°C  and after the 6th layer I set the bed down to 60°C so that the BVOH hardened and adhered to the bed making sure that nothing curled or moved. After the print finished it took 24 hours for my BVOH to fully dissolve but thats probably because I set my support to 100% infill. Either way I got a perfect ASA extruder mount&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9861" LastActivityDate="2020-04-26T19:13:35.863" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13538" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="642" CreationDate="2020-04-27T00:38:48.187" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Note that on lighter colours these light scratches can be hard to see. On white PLA they're almost invisible unless you hold it against the light at an angle and look at the specular reflection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've had some luck on a flat surface (the face of a game tile I printed) by going through various grades of sand paper. 240, 600, 1000, 2000. Finally, finishing with a regular metal polisher like Brasso brings up a shine that doesn't seem to wash off, unlike vaseline/vegetable oil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's quite a lot of work though, and even more work on curved surfaces. If heat treatment works for you, it may be preferable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17429" LastActivityDate="2020-04-27T00:38:48.187" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13539" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13511" CreationDate="2020-04-27T06:41:28.517" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You mentioned coasting. Absolutely make sure that's off. Coasting inherently extrudes less material than what's needed to print the model correctly, and this underextrusion will accumulate. PETG is really sensitive to underextrusion because it doesn't self-adhere well without a lot of effort to get things right (temperature, speed, etc.) and unless/until the amount extruded is enough to adhere well, it'll just get dragged by the nozzle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also 220°C is way too low for PETG, and low temperatures will exacerbate this kind of problem. I'd consider 230°C the absolute minimum for PETG, and 240-250 preferable. Ignore what the filament manufacturer or vendor advertises about lower temperatures being okay; this is normally a marketing ploy to ensure they can sell to users with printers that don't recommend high temperatures or have hard limits in firmware and users who are worried about PTFE off-gassing when operating at higher temperatures (not a real issue at or below 250°C, and probably not even up to 260-275, but still common FUD). Even if they don't want to be deceptive they're competing with other vendors who do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Further, make sure fan is off, or at least set to very low speed. Rapid cooling will completely mess up PETG adhesion. PETG is still very viscous at printing temperatures (unlike PLA) so there's no need to start cooling it right away to ensure it keeps its form.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, PETG is just a real pain to print with. At first I thought it was a nice material, because it holds shape well and can stand up to fairly high temperatures (which are still true), but there are lots of gotchas and it's really hard to tune your settings to get good adhesion and strong parts. Be prepared to do a lot of experimentation beyond the things I've written in this answer to get good results if you want to keep using it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastEditorUserId="11157" LastEditDate="2020-04-27T19:01:28.193" LastActivityDate="2020-04-27T19:01:28.193" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13540" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13526" CreationDate="2020-04-27T07:49:02.850" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Stefan from CNC kitchen already did it: &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/CNCKitchen/3D-Printer-Vibration&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://github.com/CNCKitchen/3D-Printer-Vibration&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2338" LastActivityDate="2020-04-27T07:49:02.850" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13541" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13533" CreationDate="2020-04-27T10:35:27.697" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the Marlin source code I found the function responsible for the report logs: &lt;code&gt;report_polled_driver_data&lt;/code&gt; in &lt;code&gt;Marlin/src/feature/tmc_util.cpp&lt;/code&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The values indicated appear to be:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;&amp;lt;Axis&amp;gt;:&amp;lt;PWM scale&amp;gt;/&amp;lt;Current scale&amp;gt;/&amp;lt;StallGuard&amp;gt;|&amp;lt;Flags&amp;gt;|&amp;lt;OTPW count&amp;gt;&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Where possible flags are as follows (where “debug” indicates that they only appear if &lt;code&gt;TMC_DEBUG&lt;/code&gt; is enabled):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;E: &lt;strong&gt;E&lt;/strong&gt;rror&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;O: &lt;strong&gt;O&lt;/strong&gt;ver-temperature&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;W: over-temperature pre-&lt;strong&gt;W&lt;/strong&gt;arning&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;G: stall&lt;strong&gt;G&lt;/strong&gt;uard (debug)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;T: stealth&lt;strong&gt;C&lt;/strong&gt;hop (debug)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I: standst&lt;strong&gt;I&lt;/strong&gt;ll (debug)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;F: otpw &lt;strong&gt;F&lt;/strong&gt;lag&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8264" LastActivityDate="2020-04-27T10:35:27.697" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13542" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-04-27T15:36:07.983" Score="4" ViewCount="1202" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just got a Creality Ender 3 yesterday. Set it up and ran the dog test print. Photo below.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I used the sample filament that came with the machine. I'm not 100&amp;nbsp;% what kind it is, but assuming it is 1.75&amp;nbsp;mm PLA.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No matter what temperature I set the end and bed, when I launched the print, it would change to 200&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C hotend, 45&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C bed. Is that because the two temperatures are set within the gcode file? Do I need to set a higher nozzle temperature? And to do so, will I have to alter the G-code file?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does the head need cleaned? I did try some blue ABS I bought, and didn't work, so I switched it to the sample filament. There was still some blue ABS in it, but seemed to be gone after a few seconds after the extrusion turned pure white. But might there still be some ABS clogging or slowing the filament?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: When I ran the test file with ABS, the material didn't adhere to the bed or itself, just created a jumbled bird's nest of spirals. Then I found something online that I needed to use the temperatures on the ABS spool. I set the temperature to 245C nozzle, 100C bed. But as soon as I ran the print, the nozzle went to 200 and the bed 45.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is the motor that moves the filament moving too slow?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is the head moving too fast?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I use a glass bed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UwPFv.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UwPFv.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20979" LastEditorUserId="20979" LastEditDate="2020-04-27T23:09:14.390" LastActivityDate="2020-04-28T11:01:25.260" Title="First 3D print made up of diagonal strands" Tags="|print-quality|creality-ender-3|troubleshooting|underextrusion|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13545" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13542" CreationDate="2020-04-28T03:26:41.953" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Based on &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/13542/first-3d-print-made-up-of-diagonal-strands#comment24210_13542&quot;&gt;your comment&lt;/a&gt; to the &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/13542/first-3d-print-made-up-of-diagonal-strands#comment24209_13542&quot;&gt;comment of 0scar&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;When I go to Fillament, I get: E in mm3: On; Fil. Dia. 1.750&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's almost surely the problem. Unless the model was sliced for &quot;E in mm3&quot;, this setting needs to be &lt;strong&gt;off&lt;/strong&gt;. What it does is change how the printer interprets extruder moves in the G-code: rather than in linear mm of filament to move, as volumetric mm³ to extrude.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At 1.75&amp;nbsp;mm diameter, that's a factor of 2.4&amp;nbsp;mm³/mm, so you'll only be extruding 1/2.4 = ~41.5&amp;nbsp;% of the material needed. That extreme underextrusion will give &lt;strong&gt;exactly&lt;/strong&gt; the effect you're seeing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-04-28T11:01:25.260" LastActivityDate="2020-04-28T11:01:25.260" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13546" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13547" CreationDate="2020-04-28T05:34:59.320" Score="2" ViewCount="509" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have and Ender 3 Pro, which I'm enjoying except for an intractable problem. No matter how carefully I level the nozzle and tighten the X belt, using this &lt;a href=&quot;https://all3dp.com/2/ender-3-bed-leveling-all-you-need-to-know/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;great guide&lt;/a&gt;, the prints seem to be tilting to the right, particularly if they're tall. I realize this is a common problem, but I'm at a loss for what it's called and where the problem is most likely to be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first sign of trouble in paradise is that, after two layers of a simple rectangular base for a &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bean_machine&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Galton Board&lt;/a&gt; I'm trying to build that uses sand, the right side is clearly thinner than the left:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/P6iorm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/P6iorm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is with a translucent Overture PETG filament, 1.75&amp;nbsp;mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the board itself, which is about 15&amp;nbsp;cm tall and looks MUCH better if printed vertically, I notice after about 3-4&amp;nbsp;cm that the bottom of the left side is becoming detached from the bed:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sKCyD.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sKCyD.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This gets progressively worse as the print goes on:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mZKMsm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mZKMsm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The entire Galton Box takes six hours to print using the default PETG settings in Cura for a default level of detail, so I'd really prefer to find a way to diagnose the problem sooner. I know this is not a new problem, but I'd be grateful for any guidance on what it's called or links to how to fix it -- and how to determine if it's a hardware problem or not. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, out of curiosity: If the machine isn't PERFECTLY level on the table -- my work desk appears to slant by about 2&amp;deg; -- could that be implicated?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20992" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-04-28T14:37:11.727" LastActivityDate="2020-04-28T14:44:52.667" Title="Diagnosing why the left side of a print detaches from the board" Tags="|creality-ender-3|heated-bed|bed-leveling|adhesion|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13547" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13546" CreationDate="2020-04-28T13:55:53.563" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The uneven level is explained by the unfortunate choice of the printer manufacturer to &lt;strong&gt;not have&lt;/strong&gt; a second Z lead screw. It is pretty difficult to level these printers, it is all a combination of the correct X belt tension and roller tension. The uneven level in the first picture is what is causing your print to detach, As can be seen you've got a lot of &quot;squish&quot; on the right side, but less adhesion (seen by the less transparent color) on the left, therefore it would fail on the left. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You need to:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;level better, &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;fix the skew XZ gantry or &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;use an &lt;a href=&quot;/a/11183&quot;&gt;adhesive&lt;/a&gt; (and/or a &lt;code&gt;brim&lt;/code&gt;).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please note that the &lt;a href=&quot;/a/7892&quot;&gt;level of the table top&lt;/a&gt; has &lt;strong&gt;nothing&lt;/strong&gt; to do with the leveling of the printer, nor with the leaning of your prints. You're just having adhesion problems as a result of an uneven bed/gantry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-04-28T14:44:52.667" LastActivityDate="2020-04-28T14:44:52.667" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13548" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13552" CreationDate="2020-04-28T19:37:49.080" Score="2" ViewCount="5917" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently purchased a BigTreeTech mini e3 V1.2 controller for my custom built 3D printer (as opposed to an pre-purchased ender 3). In doing so, I ran into the problem that the endstops I have been using have three wires: Power, Ground, and signal. The mini e3 V1.2 that I purchased uses endstop connections that only have two pins. This can be seen in the schematic below on the bottom right of the controller. I don't know where to buy endstops that only have two pins and have not been able to find anything online. If anybody knows where these can be bought or how the 3 pinned endstops are supposed to be wired up it would be much appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/p2RXe.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/p2RXe.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20505" LastEditorUserId="4922" LastEditDate="2021-04-21T13:21:54.940" LastActivityDate="2021-04-21T13:21:54.940" Title="BigTreeTech mini e3 V1.2 endstop installation" Tags="|wiring|endstop|skr-mini-e3|bigtreetech|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13549" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-04-28T20:48:34.397" Score="4" ViewCount="5518" Body="&lt;p&gt;TL;DR:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On my particular printer design, it definitely appears the company switched from flex couplings to solid couplings on purpose to improve the printer, and to prevent well-meaning users from adjusting the previous flex couplings. Whether or not this is a good design overall, is left for the reader to decide. It's certainly simple and cheap to use the motor itself as one of the leadscrew thrust bearings, but in the future I might add a micro-adjustable bearing block in place of the motor, and then couple the motor to the leadscrew with a flex coupling. That would be more typical of the way it's done on CNC machines, where the stepper bearings are isolated from any machine loads.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Original post: I bought a Artillery X1, supposedly the latest V4 version. It's my first printer, but I have experience with CNC machines. Although the pictures and YouTube videos all show the Z axis steppers connected to the leadscrews with flexible (spiral type) couplings, the printer I got has solid couplings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I thought flex couplings were important to prevent binding, so I was going to buy some flex couplings. But as I look at the printer, it appears the leadscrews actually are supported by the stepper motor itself at the bottom...there are no thrust bearings, so the weight of the printhead is supported by the stepper motor directly through the coupling. Since the spiral flex couplings can compress slightly, is the use of solid couplings deliberate in order to make a more precise machine? If I install flex couplings, will it make my printer worse by introducing &quot;spring&quot; into the system? Is this a typical design, or do other printers have thrust bearings or &quot;hang&quot; the leadscrews from the top?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a lot of reviews and videos about this printer where people noticed the leadscrews were internally touching the end of the motor shaft inside the coupling, and people thought that was wrong, so they spaced them back apart. Now, I wonder if the shafts touching was a deliberate design decision, and maybe the company even switched to solid couplers to prevent people from adjusting the couplers back. Please help me solve this mystery of the solid motor couplings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: I found a related application where the axial rigidity of the stepper couplings matter. In the following YouTube video the author deliberately jams together the lead screw and stepper shaft in order to eliminate spring from the flex coupling. This tends to solidify my theory that this printer uses solid couplings deliberately, and other printers with similar Z axes could potentially benefit as well. The X1 uses floating support bearings for the X stage to prevent binding, which probably helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/il9bNWn66BY?start=0&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, in this YouTube video the author describes how he deliberately decided to use rigid couplings on this printer to improve his Z axis and references other sources which come to the same conclusion. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/ZOZ1qATk8ns?start=0&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20999" LastEditorUserId="20999" LastEditDate="2020-05-03T20:42:41.727" LastActivityDate="2020-05-03T20:42:41.727" Title="Are stepper flex couplings important? How important?" Tags="|stepper|lead-screw|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13550" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-04-28T21:04:43.233" Score="1" ViewCount="278" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking to replace the troublesome ribbon cable of my Duplicator 6 with a 2xCAT6 arrangement for all things extruder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Are 4 26AWG wires (2 sets of 2 twisted pairs) enough copper for 50W heater at 24 volts?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Are 2 26AWG wires (1 set of 2 twisted pair) enough copper for the ground connection of the heater?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Can I consolidate ground connections of the low power fans/sensors to free up more wires?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Is it okay if I have some pins be 24 volt like for the heater and others be 12 volt for the fans?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Should I get a lower gauge CAT6 cable like 24 AWG? 23 AWG seems to exist too.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/22vqz.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/22vqz.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21000" LastEditorUserId="21000" LastEditDate="2020-04-28T23:50:27.747" LastActivityDate="2020-04-28T23:50:27.747" Title="Using 2x CAT6 cable for 24 V hotend" Tags="|hotend|electronics|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13551" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13550" CreationDate="2020-04-28T21:46:54.587" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Do not consolidate ground wires, use as many as the positive ones. In fact, use one wire of each twist for ground and one for the related positive, so that they balance each other.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mixing voltages is fine, the CAT 6 cable will hold 24 V fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Concerning the number of wires, you should check the allowed current per wire and calculate the required number of wires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Each pair can carry 0.36 A. 50 W is 2 A, you need 6 pairs for the heater.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You get two spare pairs, which can carry in total 0.7 A at the voltage you prefer. You could use two for the thermocouple and two for the fan, or two different fans.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2338" LastActivityDate="2020-04-28T21:46:54.587" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13552" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13548" CreationDate="2020-04-28T23:40:26.287" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You do not need to connect the red (+) wire of the endstops. The controller board uses a technique to ensure the signal is 3.3&amp;nbsp;V or ground, see the top left schematics of &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/bigtreetech/BIGTREETECH-SKR-mini-E3/blob/master/hardware/BTT%20SKR%20MINI%20E3%20V1.2/BTT%20SKR%20mini%20E3%20V1.2sch.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this link&lt;/a&gt; (will insert an image later!). Specifics about this technology is found &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pull-up_resistor&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; and is explained as using a pull up resistor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What happens is that the signal is always reported as triggered, unless the endstop connects the signal wire to ground.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/bigtreetech/BIGTREETECH-SKR-mini-E3/blob/master/hardware/BTT%20SKR%20MINI%20E3%20V1.2/BTT%20SKR%20MINI%20E3%20V1.2PIN.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;This link&lt;/a&gt; shows that only ground and signal are required (will insert an image later!).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2020-04-28T23:40:26.287" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13553" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7943" CreationDate="2020-04-29T07:22:32.673" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The CNC system, and simplifying intentionally, is divided into several steps:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Acquisition of the g-code&lt;/strong&gt;: This depends on the platform, whether is a file from an USB flash-memory, network or direct input from the operator. G-code operations needs to be buffered in a quantity enough to allow some &quot;look-ahead&quot; in the program.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Parsing of the g-code&lt;/strong&gt;: Parsing of any formal language is based on &quot;formal grammars&quot; theory &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Formal_grammar&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Formal_grammar&lt;/a&gt;. Fortunately, g-code is one of the simplest grammar of the Chomsky hierarchy. Language parsing is a full topic in itself, and it follows lexical, syntactical and semantical analysis.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Driving&lt;/strong&gt;: It exists several different strategies:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Open-loop vs closed loop&lt;/strong&gt;: In closed-loop CNC, sensors provide a feedback from the movement, allowing the driver to fix deviations (e.g. no step lots). Those systems are more expensive and usually not available in cheap 3D printers. In open-loop CNC, the driver send signals and &quot;hope&quot; the machine will follow, this is the case of most cheap 3D-printers, where if you block the head, it will lose steps.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Synchronous vs asynchronous&lt;/strong&gt; (not sure about this naming): In synchronous systems, the driver send a single step for each axis each loop (one step forward, no step, or one step backward for each of the x, y, z, a... axis). In each iteration, the driver establish which steps need to be activated and send it; the speed of the movement depends on how fast this loop is performed. In Asynchronous driving, the loop run at a specific speed and apply steps as needed to correct the distance between the previous/detected position and the expected position.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Acquisition and parsing of g-code can be performed in soft real-time, however the driving needs hard real-time, which precision determine the maximum speed that your CNC can manage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The servos/steppers usually cannot manage infinite acceleration, this is why the system needs to read g-code instructions ahead to anticipate closed angles or changes in direction. It should then reduce the indicated speed down to something which allows the next instruction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope this give a quick introduction to the topic, obviously, each aspect needs further reading.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12615" LastActivityDate="2020-04-29T07:22:32.673" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13554" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5618" CreationDate="2020-04-29T10:31:43.517" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;In response to the answer from mac above. The Sunon Maglev Fan is actually an exceptional fan that is superior in all aspects: static pressure, CFM, Decibels et cetera. Far superior to that of a radial fan like a Noctua.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://web.archive.org/web/20191124233417/http://www.sunon.com/index2/uFiles/file/03_products/08-catalog%20download/Sunon%20DC%20Brushless%20Fan%20&amp;amp;%20Blower_(240-A).pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Sunon - DC Brushless Fan &amp;amp; Blower&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The noise probably comes from the way it's been attached to the printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21004" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2023-11-29T06:28:33.540" LastActivityDate="2023-11-29T06:28:33.540" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13557" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13560" CreationDate="2020-04-29T22:19:08.280" Score="0" ViewCount="148" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is the same machine involved in this question: &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/13403/ender-3-pro-extruder-stepper-skipping-with-a-chunk-sound&quot;&gt;ender-3-pro-extruder-stepper-skipping-with-a-chunk-sound&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After reassembling the extruder, I discovered that the extruder stepper did not move, using prepare-&gt;move-axis. All three axis steppers did move normally.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first thing is did to test was to exchange the wires to the extruder and X-axis steppers. After this the extruder stepper moved when I moved the X-axis but the X-axis did not move when I moved the extruder. Therefore, I concluded that the stepper is working.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I then opened up the main board chassis and exchanged the X-axis and extruder cables there (so the cables are exchanged on both ends). This restored operation to the X-axes (operated as such) and the extruder did not function again (operated as such).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From this, I concluded that the cables are also fine and I had somehow blown the extruder driver on the board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I went on Amazon and ordered a &quot;silent&quot; Ender 3 Pro motherboard, rev 1.1.5 to replace my current rev 1.1.4 board. I just received the new board and, as far as I can tell, it looks like an authentic Creality product. The only visible differences between the old and new boards are the silkscreened version and the color of the PCB itself. Both are labelled &quot;Ender 3 Pro&quot; on the back.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I carefully removed the old board, marking where all cables connect and swapped in the new board. Much to my distress, everything acted exactly the same. The extruder stepper did not turn. Swapping the cables at the steppers restored functionality to the extruder (controlled as X-axis) and the X-axis did not move (controlled as extruder). Also swapping the cables at the motherboard restored the X-axis stepper (controlled as such) but the extruder stepper would not move (controlled as extruder).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I should add for Completeness that my printer was sold by Sain Smart (Creality OEM, I believe) and was labelled as such, both on the metal and on the LCD start screen. However, the motherboard was a Creality3D board, labelled as &quot;Ender 3 Pro&quot; and I believe the only actual difference is the text inside the firmware. With the new board in, the LCD identifies itself as &quot;Creality Ender 3 Pro&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At this point, the only conclusion I can come to is that the new board has failed in the same way, which doesn't make any sense.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;I need a sanity check. Does anyone see any flaw in my logic?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I should add that there is an oddity on the new board. The fan on front of the hot end seem to run at full speed and the hot end side fan and chassis fan run briefly at power up an then stop. Using control-&gt;temperature-&gt;fan-speed seems to have no effect on any of the fans. I never observed the chassis fan with the old board so I cannot say this is different but I did previously have control of the hot end fan.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20164" LastEditorUserId="20164" LastEditDate="2020-04-30T03:13:34.783" LastActivityDate="2020-04-30T08:38:09.427" Title="Need sanity check debugging non-functional extruder" Tags="|creality-ender-3|stepper-driver|stepper|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2020-04-30T22:19:49.600" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13558" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-04-29T22:48:23.900" Score="1" ViewCount="592" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have 3 printers, all Anet A8 with RAMPS 1.4 boards running identical firmware. One printer, however, has a Bowden extruder setup and RepRap 3 pin limit switches. Otherwise identical to the other 2 printers. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm mass-printing face shields, and I sliced the STL with 2 brackets at 180&amp;deg; angles and offset like so:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/J4kAg.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/J4kAg.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to print this same G-code on all 3 printers. Same dimensions, same filament, etc. All 3 printers are on OctoPrint (separate Raspberry Pi devices)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, on my 3rd printer, it's doing weird things. It will print the first layer of the frame facing the back. But when it goes to print the 2nd one (that's facing the front) it prints it right on top of the first one instead of offsetting it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I noticed that the printer was starting off about 20&amp;nbsp;mm to the right. My initial thought was the X-axis was going past it's limit to the right, skipping the belt causing the 2nd piece to offset to the left. I corrected that by adjusting the &lt;code&gt;#define X_MIN_POS&lt;/code&gt; to compensate (the only change in firmware between the 3 printers). Now it is printing centered as it should, but still trying to print both pieces on top of one another. I watched the printer until it hit this failure and can say for absolutely certain it's not going past its limit. It didn't even try to move over and print the 2nd piece properly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also tried printing another file and it would randomly offset toward the front on the Y-axis. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have also checked to ensure my belts are snug and not skipping. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It sounds wrong to me, but it's almost like the machine is receiving the proper G-code but not processing it properly. Either that or something in OctoPrint is out of whack. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've also attached the output from the terminal window in OctoPrint. I understand the commands, but darned if I can find where the error is occurring. I stopped the print right after it started to print the 2nd piece on top of the 1st.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit:&#xA;I forgot to include in my initial post the terminal output: pastebin.com/iEA8bNH9&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit 2:&#xA;Adding image of behavior&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4ekhv.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4ekhv.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21014" LastEditorUserId="21014" LastEditDate="2020-05-06T21:08:54.190" LastActivityDate="2020-05-06T21:08:54.190" Title="Printer not processing G-code properly?" Tags="|marlin|ramps|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13559" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13569" CreationDate="2020-04-30T06:37:04.533" Score="0" ViewCount="3641" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been working hard the last year on the model below. I am new to everything 3D that is modeling and especially 3D printing. I have however successfully concluded quite a good number of 3D prints which I created in blender with my Creality Ender 3 Pro so I have a bit of experience.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All this new experience for me started with the desire to do this project I have been working on for all this year. A complex 3D model of a knight's tomb which I would like to print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NZ5Lx.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NZ5Lx.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you can see Cura is clearly indicating that there is a need for supports in these red areas. The model will be printed in a 15&amp;nbsp;cm size. I have also managed to resize the model from a 22 million face mesh full of holes to a 900k manifold model.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, when I slice it I get this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fx5o8.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fx5o8.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you can see supports are only generated for the outer column part. None are generated for the arches which are totally absent when the model is sliced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have tried to alter the model's orientation but with no result. I will try to separate this mesh in parts but it would mean restarting all from scratch since I found no good software to slice it precisely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am quite sure that the main problem lies in the fact the Ender 3 pro is an FDM printer an that the vertical lines of the arches are too thin.   Since I tried to upload my model on 3D printing services to see if it could be printed in other materials and could be printed in finely detailed resin.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would like at least to know if I am right in my problem spotting or if there could be any solution to the present problem so that not to go wrong if I will redesign this part.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21017" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-05-01T12:15:55.823" LastActivityDate="2020-07-13T11:50:47.220" Title="My 3D model is printing with missing parts when sliced in Ultimaker Cura" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|3d-models|3d-design|fdm|support-structures|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13560" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13557" CreationDate="2020-04-30T08:38:09.427" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The extruder motor will not turn unless the hotend is at a certain minimum temperature. This is a safety feature to prevent the extruder from grinding through the filament with a cold hotend. You can use the &lt;a href=&quot;https://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M302.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;M302 command&lt;/a&gt; to control this behavior.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastActivityDate="2020-04-30T08:38:09.427" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13563" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12070" CreationDate="2020-04-30T14:12:01.370" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Heating spools on the bed can be an option, but it seems inefficient to me: you lose a lot of heat and an oven would save quite some energy. Also, I wonder whether the open air will reduce the effectiveness even more, since the outer parts and the top of the spool will be colder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2338" LastActivityDate="2020-04-30T14:12:01.370" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13565" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13549" CreationDate="2020-04-30T15:43:39.353" Score="2" Body="&lt;h1&gt;Yes and No&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's start with the obvious: Flex couplings or rigid couplings are a deliberate choice in designing the printer. Each has its benefits and drawbacks. So let's look into the 4 types of drive-train setups that I know to be possible:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Spiral couplings make it possible to operate the machine with a slightly misaligned motor to the shaft (&amp;lt;1°) but can add a measurable slop, which can be seen as a systemic error.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rigid couplings have minimal slop but need to be much better aligned by the user in setup.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;No coupling at all - direct drive to the shaft - has no slop at all, but is both more expensive and needs the most diligent work on setup.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Geared. You could couple the motor with the Z-Axis via gears, allowing to trade speed for detail and vice versa. It also can allow mounting the motor 90° to the printer, but it also adds some backlash and slop. Because good gears are expensive, this is really rare.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Using spiral couplers right&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A spiral coupler can actually be used in two ways:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Keeping the leadscrew tensioned into a position.&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This butts both parts together, it reduces the slop induced by the coupler to the minimum, but you need to forcefully make sure that the parts push together. You lose some of the misalignment-correction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Decouple vibrations from one shaft to another.&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This keeps a little gap between the two. The slop can be larger, but you get the benefit of the shafts on both sides not transmitting all the vibrations 1:1 to the other shaft and you get more self-realignment if the motor and shaft are not perfectly coaxial.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;What is better?&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Well, it depends. If you want the perfect drive, you'd go direct drive. If you want the finest motor control (by virtue of getting the steps to a much smaller rotation), you might use gears. But the spring-coupler allows you to do the setup easier for a consumer that might not be the most reliable in setting it up himself. Making the spring-coupler butted can increase repeatability and reduce slop to almost the same as a stiff coupler but not lose the ability to have a slightly crooked setup that still works.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:29:41.667" LastActivityDate="2020-05-01T11:20:05.533" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13566" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13567" CreationDate="2020-05-01T11:08:31.700" Score="1" ViewCount="8205" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just changed the motherboard of my CR-10 mini printer to an SKR 1.4 and installed Marlin 2.0.x on it. Everything seems to work except for the automatic bed leveling. I’m using an EZABL probe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The probe is mounted to the left and slightly in front of the nozzle. Therefore I have set the probe-nozzle offset in Marlin as:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#define NOZZLE_TO_PROBE_OFFSET { -45, -12, 0 }&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I run automatic bed leveling with G29 the nozzle moves to a position where the sensor is outside of the bed (but the nozzle is inside the bed). And then it crashes down into the bed with the nozzle because the Z endstop is never triggered.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To debug I used the DEBUG_LEVELING_FEATURE in Marlin and ran G29 from Pronterface. This is what I got:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;SENDING:G29&#xA;  current_position= X140.00 Y90.00 Z5.00 : &amp;gt;&amp;gt;&amp;gt; G29&#xA;Machine Type: Cartesian&#xA;Probe: FIX_MOUNTED_PROBE&#xA;Probe Offset X10.00 Y10.00 Z0.00 (Right-Back &amp;amp; Same Z as Nozzle)&#xA;Auto Bed Leveling: BILINEAR (disabled)&#xA;  current_position= X140.00 Y90.00 Z5.00 : Probe::set_deployed&#xA;deploy: 1&#xA;Probe::move_z(5.00)&#xA;&amp;gt;&amp;gt;&amp;gt; do_blocking_move_to X140.00 Y90.00 Z5.00&#xA;&amp;lt;&amp;lt;&amp;lt; do_blocking_move_to&#xA;reset_bed_level&#xA;&amp;gt;&amp;gt;&amp;gt; Probe::probe_at_point(30.00, 30.00, raise, 0, probe_relative)&#xA;  current_position= X140.00 Y90.00 Z5.00 :&#xA;&amp;gt;&amp;gt;&amp;gt; do_blocking_move_to X20.00 Y20.00 Z5.00&#xA;&amp;lt;&amp;lt;&amp;lt; do_blocking_move_to&#xA;  current_position= X20.00 Y20.00 Z5.00 : Probe::set_deployed&#xA;deploy: 1&#xA;  current_position= X20.00 Y20.00 Z5.00 : &amp;gt;&amp;gt;&amp;gt; Probe::run_z_probe&#xA;  current_position= X20.00 Y20.00 Z5.00 : &amp;gt;&amp;gt;&amp;gt; Probe::probe_down_to_z&#xA;&amp;gt;&amp;gt;&amp;gt; do_blocking_move_to X20.00 Y20.00 Z-3.00&#xA;&amp;lt;&amp;lt;&amp;lt; do_blocking_move_to&#xA;echo:busy: processing&#xA;  current_position= X20.00 Y20.00 Z-3.00 : sync_plan_position&#xA;  current_position= X20.00 Y20.00 Z-3.00 : &amp;lt;&amp;lt;&amp;lt; Probe::probe_down_to_z&#xA;FAST Probe fail!&#xA;  current_position= X20.00 Y20.00 Z-3.00 : &amp;lt;&amp;lt;&amp;lt; run_z_probe&#xA;  current_position= X20.00 Y20.00 Z-3.00 : Probe::set_deployed&#xA;deploy: 0&#xA;&amp;gt;&amp;gt;&amp;gt; do_blocking_move_to X20.00 Y20.00 Z-3.00&#xA;&amp;lt;&amp;lt;&amp;lt; do_blocking_move_to&#xA;Error:Probing Failed&#xA;[ERROR] Error:Probing Failed&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I don’t understand is why it says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Probe Offset X10.00 Y10.00 Z0.00 (Right-Back &amp;amp; Same Z as Nozzle)&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because that is not at all the NOZZLE_TO_PROBE_OFFSET I have defined. Is there another setting related to the nozzle/probe offset besides NOZZLE_TO_PROBE_OFFSET that I have missed? Or why does Marlin get the idea that my probe is to the right and back of the probe when in reality its to the front and left?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21030" LastActivityDate="2020-05-01T12:11:52.170" Title="Automatic bed leveling probes outside of bed despite NOZZLE_TO_PROBE_OFFSET" Tags="|marlin|ezabl|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2020-05-01T12:58:11.880" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13567" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13566" CreationDate="2020-05-01T12:01:33.333" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The problem is that, although you have set the offsets correctly, the boundary limits for the probe to &quot;probe the area&quot; have not been adjusted. It is my belief that this is a flaw in ABL of Marlin 2.0.x. If the user has set the probe offsets, the firmware already knows that the probe area is limited!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;/a/8154&quot;&gt;This answer&lt;/a&gt; on question &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;/q/8153&quot;&gt;How to set Z-probe boundary limits in firmware when using automatic bed leveling?&lt;/a&gt;&quot; describes in detail what the boundaries of the probe are for Marlin firmware 1.1.x &lt;strong&gt;and&lt;/strong&gt; 2.0.x.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically, you need to set the boundaries of the probe using some extra definitions in your Configuration_adv.h file:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&#xA;  constexpr int nozzle_to_probe_offset[] = NOZZLE_TO_PROBE_OFFSET;&#xA;  #define PROBE_X_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER nozzle_to_probe_offset[0]&#xA;  #define PROBE_Y_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER nozzle_to_probe_offset[1]&#xA;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When including the &lt;code&gt;MIN_PROBE_EDGE&lt;/code&gt; this means that the area is defined as:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&#xA;  #define MIN_PROBE_EDGE_LEFT (MIN_PROBE_EDGE)&#xA;  #define MIN_PROBE_EDGE_RIGHT (MIN_PROBE_EDGE - PROBE_X_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER)&#xA;  #define MIN_PROBE_EDGE_FRONT (MIN_PROBE_EDGE)&#xA;  #define MIN_PROBE_EDGE_BACK (MIN_PROBE_EDGE - PROBE_Y_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER)&#xA;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;(Since the offsets are negative in your probe setup, we need to subtract the values in order to add up the absolute value to the edge...)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-05-01T12:11:52.170" LastActivityDate="2020-05-01T12:11:52.170" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13569" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13559" CreationDate="2020-05-01T13:53:22.857" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's a setting in Cura to Print Thin Walls. It's turned off by default, and IIRC correctly there's a good reason it's off by default. But for this item, you should turn it on. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Yj9HF.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Yj9HF.png&quot; alt=&quot;Cura Screen Capture&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looking again, I see this is vertical, so I'm not sure how well this setting will help. Even if it does create the gcode to include the walls, this would be a tough print. If possible, you may want to rotate this 90° for printing, though I also see the gap on the right that would become a long bridge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12562" LastActivityDate="2020-05-01T13:53:22.857" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13570" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13406" CreationDate="2020-05-01T18:29:06.233" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;After I finally had the time to disassemble the extruder and I found a possible culprit - which did solve the issue for some time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6oAiA.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6oAiA.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/833Cb.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/833Cb.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you can see on the pictures the heater block leaked and this lead to some filament dripping off of the side and onto the print. The nozzle then eventually caught these drips and this caused the mess.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are some tipps for beginners like me:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Cwp_jRUyUoA&amp;amp;t=64s&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;How to disassemble the extruder on the Sidewinder X1&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Be carefull when trying to screw the nozzle out. You will most likely need some heat to soften up / melt the filament. I was not carefull and broke the thread. I then had to replace the whole heatblock.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Examine the tubing that leads the filament through the heatbreak and to the thread of the nozzle mine was a little bit deformed and didn't seem to be cut off straight to begin with.It has to be as flat as possible against the nozzle thread!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This was most likely the problem, Over time and after several melting ,hardening and melting procedures some filament creeped between the threads and the heatblock started to leak .. first slowly then worse and worse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope that helps anyone. My prints come out great again. Plus I now know a lot more about my printer .&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;the original problem reappeared, see my update 2 of my question&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;[UPDATE]&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just to close this off: I can only guess what the original problem was but since I had this issue some times now I am quite certain, that it has to be bad filament (I am using really cheap one) and a relatively dusty environment, mixed with overreacting when trying to solve this issue. I got some needles with which I - fairly regularly - unclog / clean the nozzle especially after longer times without use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20788" LastEditorUserId="20788" LastEditDate="2020-07-13T14:34:14.083" LastActivityDate="2020-07-13T14:34:14.083" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13572" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-05-02T16:37:33.353" Score="1" ViewCount="187" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm working on a project with will be buried in soil. It's an enclosure for a sensor that will be potted inside the 3D printed part. What filament will give me the longest life in soil? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;ETA: burial will be permanent, and I'd like it to last at least five years.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;ETA: The printed part will provide mechanical support for the sensor, so it needs to retain most of its mechanical properties.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21041" LastEditorUserId="21041" LastEditDate="2020-05-07T04:39:04.683" LastActivityDate="2020-06-13T00:58:46.513" Title="Filament suitable for direct burial" Tags="|filament-choice|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13573" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-05-02T17:58:11.343" Score="1" ViewCount="1590" Body="&lt;p&gt;Running Marlin 1.1.2, printing from Octoprint on Linux PC. So, the PC freezes up and I have to pause the print and reboot. It's a 36 hour print with 11 hours left to go and I'd rather not start over.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have the X, Y, and Z coords of where I need to begin again, and I've deleted all the GCode to that point. In the several tutorials I read on how to resume a print, they all assume that the printer - which in my case had a restart of its own - knows where Z is. I can safely rehome X and Y, but when I try to rehome Z the print head moves to the center of the plate, which of course would cause a collision with the model.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On my printer the Z-axis switch is over to the side of the frame holding the print bed, so I can home Z with the print head anywhere. Is there a way I can home Z without the head moving to center? Or, barring that, some offset I can enter for Z so I can resume at the same height I started? I can't wrap my mind around what I need to do here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14530" LastActivityDate="2021-02-02T00:42:21.507" Title="Re-homing Z: trouble resuming a print, what if I can't re-home?" Tags="|marlin|z-axis|flsun-3d-cube|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13574" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13573" CreationDate="2020-05-02T19:45:14.257" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Was able to make it happen, though I fear that I may have misjudged exactly where zero was, but we'll see in a few hours.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway, for those who may come along later, here's what I figured out:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I already knew what my X, Y, and Z positions should be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I kept the heat on for the bed so the print wouldn't shrink and break loose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With the plate lowered and the print well out of harm's way, I homed X and Y. Then moved X10 Y0, a convenient place to work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I set relative positioning on, G91, and moved Z up toward the print head until a business card was &lt;em&gt;firmly&lt;/em&gt; clamped between the head and the plate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I then set Z at zero, G92 Z0. Apparently Marlin (or Octoprint? idk) will let you print without homing Z as long as it knows where zero is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I moved to print head to my desired X, Y, and Z positions and checked it against the model, which seemed to be right. I fear that I may have not zero'd down enough, so there will be a noticeable gap/weak spot, but I won't know that until I get more layers on than there are at this moment. I suppose if that's true, then I could just shave off the new layers and reset zero a couple of layers tighter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rest of the steps for resuming a print (editing the G-Code and what-not) are readily available in a dozen or more tutorials, so I won't cover that here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Follow-up&lt;/strong&gt;: yep, left too much room. I shaved off the new layers (having a kiridashi really helped there) and re-zero'd, but this time, after doing so I entered my initial Z value so that the nozzle touched the model and adjusted from there. Note that aesthetics aren't an issue: these are mechanical parts to all they need is to not snap in the middle. Having a seam there isn't a problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14530" LastEditorUserId="14530" LastEditDate="2020-05-02T20:19:44.740" LastActivityDate="2020-05-02T20:19:44.740" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13576" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-05-03T04:29:29.347" Score="3" ViewCount="2454" Body="&lt;p&gt;I’m new to 3D printing and have the Creality Ender 3 Pro. I work a lot with clay for earrings and wanted to design my own cutters with a sharp edge to create clean shapes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I use PLA and have been using the speed and nozzle (0.4 mm) that was already set when I bought it. It’s been creating fine edges but I’d like to make it a lot sharper. Using the instructions from videos I saw online, I created the following &amp;quot;U&amp;quot; shape (extrusion of .5 mm Is the “cutting edge”. I started getting some weird bubbles too and am not sure what has created that either (see pic).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I use Fusion 360 to make the cookie/clay cutter and then send it to Ultimaker Cura to slice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any help with how to make it sharper and more clean cuts would be great!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0uMjD.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Cookie/clay cutter form&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0uMjD.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Cookie/clay cutter form&quot; title=&quot;Cookie/clay cutter form&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21048" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2021-07-20T10:45:50.563" LastActivityDate="2021-07-21T16:48:45.617" Title="How to sharpen cookie/clay cutter edge" Tags="|creality-ender-3|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13577" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13505" CreationDate="2020-05-03T06:28:09.127" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I managed to confirm the dragged layers were mostly due to &lt;strong&gt;under-extrusion&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had a &lt;code&gt;faulty extruder&lt;/code&gt; (clicking sound) and once I swapped it out it was greatly improved.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's worth noting I also had a slight &lt;code&gt;z-wobble&lt;/code&gt; issue so that could have played a role.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hopefully this can help somebody out as I hadn't seen this kind of symptom in any of the print quality guides.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20939" LastActivityDate="2020-05-03T06:28:09.127" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13578" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13576" CreationDate="2020-05-03T06:29:30.353" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;An extrusion width of 0.5&amp;nbsp;mm is too wide for making a sharp outline, I do use this sometimes for extrusion width for the infill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that you can sand plastic (e.g. PLA or ABS) to sharpen the edge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2020-05-03T06:29:30.353" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13579" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-05-03T06:40:47.693" Score="0" ViewCount="381" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a zonestar P802QR2 model. This problem has been appearing since I first started using it and I'd really appreciate some help here!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The prints always come out wavy and I'm guessing the y-axis is the main problem since the wavy lines come out stronger when moving in certain directions. The worst is when its moving towards the +ve y-direction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kNK0A.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kNK0A.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;single layer print&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I printed an octagon outline here to show the difference for different directions. The problem appears regardless of the speed setting. (ignore the poor taping, it doesn't affect the current problem)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21049" LastActivityDate="2020-05-03T06:40:47.693" Title="Wavy lines throughout print" Tags="|y-axis|hardware|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13583" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-05-03T20:37:56.297" Score="1" ViewCount="3545" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking to increase the printing speed, through increasing the volumetric flow rate, which is currently at 5&amp;nbsp;mm³/s. Larger amounts cause the feeding mechanism to skip steps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm running at 190&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C, which helps with easier bridging less stringing and personally see no reason to increase the temperature to the popular 205&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, my thought process is the following: since I run at lesser temperature, there is still potential for the heating block to provide more heat and I need a longer nozzle to accumulate more heat and provide more surface area for transfer to the fillament (PLA), to speed up the melting of the plastic inside the nozzle (&lt;em&gt;which seems to be the bottleneck&lt;/em&gt;). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;That's similar to using larger tips for soldring iron, when faced with heating up large surfaces in order to desolder something large, since we need to stay at precise temperature, and need to increase the heat supply as well.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The suggested solution is to switch to the E3D's Volcano &quot;everything included&quot; kit. Which is nice and cool, but I don't think it's that necessary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is it possible to just switch to a volcano nozzle? (Manufacturer#: VOLCANO-NOZZLE-175-0400)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Would it actually noticeably help to increase the extrusion speed?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Current setup:&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;Ender 3 Pro, no mods&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;Classic 0.4&amp;nbsp;mm nozzle&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21061" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-05-03T21:25:50.523" LastActivityDate="2021-07-17T16:50:11.487" Title="Increase volumetric flow rate using a longer nozzle" Tags="|creality-ender-3|extrusion|nozzle|speed|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13584" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13583" CreationDate="2020-05-03T21:32:30.373" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, the Volcano or the Super Volcano allow for larger flow rate (typically when using larger nozzles), that is where they were designed for. Just the nozzle will not help you, you need this larger nozzle shaft to be inside a Volcano heater block, else you cannot transfer the heat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to measurements from Metaform, the volumetric flow of a Volcano hotend is larger than the regular E3D V6 hotend.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5p6Le.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5p6Le.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-10-13T21:45:18.360" LastActivityDate="2020-10-13T21:45:18.360" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13585" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13586" CreationDate="2020-05-04T04:39:21.517" Score="1" ViewCount="1186" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an Ender 3, I got a new glass bed, the bed comes with glue on the back.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I stick the glass bed to the aluminium base? or just use it with the clips?&#xA;I saw other people just use the clips, but my glass seems to have a sticky back...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iq7WD.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iq7WD.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20849" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-05-04T12:08:33.627" LastActivityDate="2020-05-04T21:17:03.577" Title="New glass bed, should I glue it?" Tags="|creality-ender-3|glass-bed|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13586" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13585" CreationDate="2020-05-04T07:09:47.557" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are pro and cons for leaving the sticky protection baking paper on the slate of glass:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;pros (for not glueing it):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Can be removed more easily in the future (the &lt;a href=&quot;/a/7964&quot;&gt;collant is not easy to remove&lt;/a&gt;, requires a solvent and elbow grease)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Can remove the slate of glass to put it in the refrigerator to loosen stuck prints&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;cons:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Need for binder clips that may cause nozzle collision and decreases bed size (unless you use kapton tape to fix the bed)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Backing paper adds another layer of insulation (unless you remove it and all the goo)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-05-04T21:17:03.577" LastActivityDate="2020-05-04T21:17:03.577" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13587" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-05-04T07:45:59.897" Score="0" ViewCount="556" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been pulling my hair out for the last couple of weeks with trying to get a decent print out of my Ender 3.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I recently bought &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2-Pin-Z-End-ABL-Auto-Bed-Levelling-KIT-for-Anet-A2-A6-A8-E10-E12-Creality-Ender/223436573996?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&amp;amp;_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; auto bed levelling kit and these &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B083GLHGQ2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;psc=1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;solid bed mounts&lt;/a&gt; for my Ender 3. I followed this &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jARw5_w0uGM&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Teaching Tech&lt;/a&gt; video as a guide to install the EZABL. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I used a spirit level and noticed the X-Gantry was a bit off. That's now been remedied with the trusty allen key. Everything else to my eye, and the spirit level, appears to be ok.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another thing I noticed was that when the Z-Offset was adjusted to say the highest part of the bed, it wouldn't print in the lower part. This was also true of the reverse. Does this mean that the bed is too distorted?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the latest bed level visualisation:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/P8Bze.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/P8Bze.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since the &lt;code&gt;upgrade&lt;/code&gt; the prints have been all over the place. Parts of the bed is still too close to print at all and other parts are much so far away that the prints are weak and malleable. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is also a lot of 'stringing' type behaviour going on. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See photo below and &lt;a href=&quot;https://photos.app.goo.gl/o4riHZJof1mcuKNt8&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this video&lt;/a&gt; for an example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/s5NWh.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/s5NWh.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As I say, a lot of hair pulling has been going on so any help would be immensely appreciated. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14146" LastActivityDate="2020-05-04T07:45:59.897" Title="Creality Ender 3 EZABL bed levelling not working" Tags="|creality-ender-3|bed-leveling|ezabl|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13588" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13585" CreationDate="2020-05-04T12:14:40.593" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Use Clips on either the left or the right. The aluminum might not be flat. Using clips or the adhesive will cause the glass to warp, defeating the point of using the glass.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12857" LastActivityDate="2020-05-04T12:14:40.593" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13589" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-05-04T13:26:50.130" Score="1" ViewCount="4172" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am a new to 3D printing, somehow, the infill of my print compiled by Cura 4.5 is weak. I print with generic PLA (FD plast) on 200 °C. See image below:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mH9N3.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mH9N3.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;PLA printed part with failed infill&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Print details: I have a Zonestar Z6FB which I use together with Cura 4.5. I print in PLA at 200 °C (Cura default for PLA). The print bed is set to 60 °C. I use a print cooling fan at 100 %. The layer height I set to 0.1 mm, the line width (wall thikness 0.8 mm?) from the 0.4 mm nozzle. The Printing Speed is set to 60 mm/s for everything. My retraction is unknown.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21067" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-10-02T05:12:28.713" LastActivityDate="2021-03-01T06:05:35.650" Title="Infill not printing well. What I am doing wrong?" Tags="|infill|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13591" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-05-04T16:35:55.197" Score="1" ViewCount="2575" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am new to 3D printing which we all are/were at some point. I have &lt;strong&gt;no&lt;/strong&gt; clue how to address the issue which likely is reason why I haven't found the solution yet. So if you see that this question has been posted elsewhere, please link it! Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have had this issue for a while, however right now, one minute ago, it worked kind of. The text below is a description of the problem that very often occurs!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the issue is basically the extruder. I have a Flashforge Adventurer 3. In it's software you have a &lt;em&gt;&amp;quot;Load&amp;quot;&lt;/em&gt; and &lt;em&gt;&amp;quot;Change&amp;quot;&lt;/em&gt; option which you change and load filament with. When I load filament it goes through the tube but it never exits the extruder. The common answer is that the nozzle is clogged. I have honestly checked this, it isn't the problem. I have cleaned it as Flashforge says and I have also been using really small metallic pins to push out &lt;strong&gt;all&lt;/strong&gt; the filament. So that isn't the issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sometimes the filament also gets stuck inside the tube. Or the Bowden tube I think it is called.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did a test 10 minutes ago, it went through the tube smoothly. No filament came out at the other end however. I then changed the filament, which means I pulled it back. I then saw that a part of the filament had gotten stuck at the end of the tube. It didn't pull all the filament back, a very small bit of the filament had somehow gotten stuck?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As it doesn't extrude filament when I load the filament it has nothing with the calibration to do what I know. So my own conclusion would be that something between the tube and extruder is going crazy. And I know, that isn't a good conclusion. However I don't know how to address it as I said before.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know that it's hard to troubleshoot a text, so I will upload a video for you guys reading this. I really just want my 3D printer working again as the company said it probably isn't anything wrong with the machine..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the machine starts working again it prints, but not good. Here is a video of how hit prints a big &amp;quot;F&amp;quot;. &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/kis_jNTRgI0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Link&lt;/a&gt;. Sometimes it stops extruding filament for a while then it starts to extrude again..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is also an image of the print below![&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UeGmj.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Image&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The machine is printing at 195 °C! I appreciate all the help I can get, I just want my machine fully working again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a video of the Bowden tube: &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/lFGUK6hUmkA&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Link&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a video of the extruder issue: &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/Y6u2Pi2xINk&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Link&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are two videos regarding the cold pull, I &amp;quot;try&amp;quot; to speak English so you get more information this time! &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/ZfnNGwdTufI&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Link&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/IQmYHiYgoEo&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Link 2&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21072" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-06-07T12:24:16.153" LastActivityDate="2021-07-07T14:02:45.233" Title="Adventurer 3 3D Printer doesn't extrude correctly" Tags="|extruder|bowden|flashforge|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13592" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13591" CreationDate="2020-05-04T17:23:11.840" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a number of different ways to narrow down the problem. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your printing temperature is likely too low. Raise it up about ten degrees, but don't try a print just yet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ensure that the Bowden tube is firmly pressed into the hot end assembly. A gap below the tube is asking for future problems. If the tube is clear, remove it and examine for a squarely cut end and re-insert firmly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not familiar with the specifics of your model, but you should be able to disengage the Bowden tube from the extruder motor and manually push filament through the hot end and out the nozzle. For obvious reasons, raise the carriage above the bed before doing this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Start with the 205&amp;nbsp;°C temperature and heat the nozzle. When it reaches stable temperature, push filament through. If it moves smoothly and extrudes cleanly, you're more than half-way home. If not, raise the temperature by another five degrees. At some point, you'll have a good idea of the temperature to use for that brand and color of filament.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you've checked those two items, you may have it solved, or you can edit your question to address any new developments.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you have the temperature determined, note that it may have to be increased to match a higher print speed. It is easy enough to push filament manually at the equivalent of a slow print, which allows the hot end to transfer the heat at a sufficient rate. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When printing normal speeds, if it can't move the heat fast enough, you have to raise the temperature or lower the speed. The former is preferable, of course. Who wants a print that takes two or three times longer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: more info added&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may have more than one problem. I think your next step is to focus on the hot end/nozzle area. With the Bowden tube removed, insert a length of filament and raise the temperature to around 200&amp;nbsp;°C and push the filament downward.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You probably won't have filament passing through the nozzle, based on the limited information in the video. Once you've confirmed that, reduce the temperature in the nozzle to about 125&amp;nbsp;°C, let it hold there for a bit. You should note that the additional filament has now fused with that in the heat sink/heat break area. Increase the temperature again to 200&amp;nbsp;°C and apply gentle upwards pressure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is not a typical cold-pull process, but close to it. If you had nylon filament available, I'd recommend to use the nylon cleaning method.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suspect that your hot end is clogged at the point where the bowden tube should have been flush into the bore.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did not see both ends free on your Bowden tube. Your second problem may be related to that aspect. Consider to manually feed filament through the tube (after first clearing it) and if that doesn't work, the bowden tube is internally damaged.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The additional videos are helpful. Two items come to mind. The temperature may be too low at 200°C. You can't hurt things by going a bit too high, even as high as 225°C or 230°C but don't make big jumps to get there. Bring the temperature up to 210°C and see if you can force filament smoothly through the nozzle by hand. Keep on this practice until you find a good temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the second item, it's possible that your e-steps need to be checked. Feed filament through the bowden tube with the tube removed from the nozzle assembly. Feed a few centimeters beyond the end and make a mark where the filament is at the edge of the tube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using a terminal program or your printer control software, command a 100 millimeter filament feed. When it is completed, mark the filament and determine if you have extruded the correct amount.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The second part of the second video certainly presents well the frustration you are experiencing. Many of the people in the 3D printing community have had similar frustrations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the lock-up portion, check the manufacturer's web site for firmware upgrades, as sometimes there will be a correction to a problem such as yours.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastEditorUserId="854" LastEditDate="2020-05-05T17:35:38.993" LastActivityDate="2020-05-05T17:35:38.993" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13593" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-05-04T19:24:03.677" Score="0" ViewCount="1321" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been looking at the Ender series and decided to take the plunge. But I'm unsure on electrical matters. The 110 or 220 volt switch, I assume goes to 220&amp;nbsp;V as I live in the UK but my main question is, from what I've read they come with an EU plug and a uk adapter, is it safer to switch to a 'kettle lead' for it to have it's own fuse and be grounded or is the adapter it comes with fine? &lt;em&gt;(I've never been a fan of adapter and I've read in different places that they're fine or that they are horrible.)&lt;/em&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please help as if I need to buy a cable I'll do it the same time I buy the printer. Thank you all in advance for any help I get, hope to join this community properly as soon as the printers come back in stock anywhere.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21075" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-05-05T22:36:46.407" LastActivityDate="2020-05-07T09:42:29.810" Title="Advice on power supply wiring for the UK" Tags="|creality-ender-3|electronics|safety|creality-ender-5|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13594" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-05-04T19:25:11.723" Score="0" ViewCount="186" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm currently setting up my custom built 3D printer with a BTT SKR mini E3 v1.2, and so far I have all the endstops and x and y motors working. The problem is that when trying to home my z motors, they just vibrate and make a lot of noise, which tells me they're not getting enough current(which makes sense cause there's two of them as opposed to the other axis). The weird part is that when I manually control them on pronterface, that is just clicking up and down on the arrow wheel, they work perfectly fine. It's only when homing that they vibrate and make a lot of noise. I've tried using the M906 command to raise the current on the motors - they started at 560, and I slowly worked my way up to 4000 - and witnessed no difference. I'm not sure what to adjust from here. Thanks for the help in advance!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20505" LastActivityDate="2020-05-06T01:52:30.047" Title="Z motors only working manual, do not home correctly" Tags="|z-axis|motor|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13595" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-05-04T21:05:09.853" Score="2" ViewCount="3075" Body="&lt;p&gt;It seems to me that the size of hole in the nozzle shouldn't matter in and of itself. If you program in the layer height and line width, then the same amount of plastic has to be extruded, no matter what size the hole is in the nozzle. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course I understand that, mechanically, the best results are got with the line width slightly larger than the nozzle size. We couldn't print a 0.3&amp;nbsp;mm line with a 0.6&amp;nbsp;mm nozzle, and trying to print a 1&amp;nbsp;mm line with a 0.4&amp;nbsp;mm nozzle probably wouldn't work well either. But in terms of what the actual G-code needs to do, the nozzle size doesn't seem to matter. After all, printers feed filament based on length/volume, so the size of the nozzle shouldn't impact the amount of plastic extruded. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What prompted this question: I want to switch from a 0.4&amp;nbsp;mm nozzle to a 0.8&amp;nbsp;mm nozzle, but I cannot find out how to change the nozzle size in Cura. There are many bug reports about the nozzle size setting disappearing or not displaying in Cura, and I think that's my problem. However, in the troubleshooting threads, many people claim that you can just change the line width and ignore the nozzle size completely and the result will be the same. In other words, if I want to switch from 0.4 nozzle and 0.48 line width, to 0.8 nozzle and 1&amp;nbsp;mm line width, I can just keep my slicer set to 0.4 nozzle size, but increase the line width to 1&amp;nbsp;mm, and if I physically install a 0.8&amp;nbsp;mm nozzle, it will do exactly the same thing. There are even Cura developers saying the nozzle size setting will be removed in a future version completely. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This may depend on the way individual slicers work. Has anyone tried switching between say 0.4 and 0.6 nozzle settings, while leaving the line width the same (say 0.8&amp;nbsp;mm line width for both), and see any differences in the G-code? I can't test this myself, because I can't change the nozzle size right now...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20999" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-05-04T21:52:14.843" LastActivityDate="2020-05-05T22:22:10.077" Title="Why do slicers have nozzle size settings?" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|extruder|nozzle|layer-height|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2020-05-06T06:18:12.680" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13596" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13595" CreationDate="2020-05-04T22:22:09.950" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;CNC kitchen tested various extrusion widths with various nozzles and in fact there's no difference, only the line width matters.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.cnckitchen.com/blog/big-nozzles-how-do-they-make-your-3d-prints-stronger&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.cnckitchen.com/blog/big-nozzles-how-do-they-make-your-3d-prints-stronger&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course it's up to you to avoid too thick layers with small nozzles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2338" LastActivityDate="2020-05-04T22:22:09.950" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13597" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13595" CreationDate="2020-05-04T22:40:47.410" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I never thought about that! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do know from experience that Cura uses nozzle sizes to sanity check your settings, warning you if you do something unreasonable. That is reason enough to include the feature for me. However, I did wonder what, if any, differenced this actually makes, so I tested it and here's my results: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I went through and tested it on the &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprint.nih.gov/discover/3DPX-013306&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;3DVerkstan Face Mask&lt;/a&gt;. I compiled the same model in the same place in &lt;strong&gt;Cura&lt;/strong&gt;, the only differences between the two being that I changed the nozzle size from 0.4&amp;nbsp;mm to 0.8&amp;nbsp;mm. I then ran the VS Code Diff Checker on the files as well as loaded the exported gcode back into Cura to compare and got some interesting results. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The estimated times and filament usages are very slightly different: 2689 seconds for 0.8 and 2698 seconds for 0.4, 6.18899&amp;nbsp;m for 0.8 and 6.18883&amp;nbsp;m for 0.4. This means something different is happening somewhere, but it's very similar to within a rounding error. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The brim is exactly the same for both. No differences whatsoever in the G-code.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When the model starts printing, everything in the gcode becomes different. This seems to be down to a few reasons: (note these photos were taken by exporting gcode then re-opening that gcode into Cura)&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Differing layer start positions&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hCtAv.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hCtAv.png&quot; alt=&quot;0.8 mm File&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rWdnG.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rWdnG.png&quot; alt=&quot;0.4 mm File&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Possibly a difference in line overlaps? On the 0.8&amp;nbsp;mm file, cura shows a larger gap between the brim and the part, and more overlap between the outer wall and inner walls when compared to the 0.4&amp;nbsp;mm file. &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WDzWQ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WDzWQ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Line Overlaps Compared&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's all the differences I can observe in this model. Every layer is different in the gocde, but it seems to be down to the two differences noted above. IMO, that's all inconsequential and you should be fine to change all the settings to how they should be for a larger nozzle and be just fine. Other than the warnings, nozzle sizes may be a holdover from a past version when they were more useful, or simply may have just seemed like a reasonable feature to put in at the time and no one really thought about it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as changing nozzle size goes, I go to &lt;code&gt;Preferences&lt;/code&gt; &gt; &lt;code&gt;Configure Cura&lt;/code&gt; &gt; &lt;code&gt;Printers&lt;/code&gt; &gt; &lt;code&gt;Machine Settings&lt;/code&gt; &gt; &lt;code&gt;Extruder 1&lt;/code&gt; &gt; &lt;code&gt;Nozzle Size&lt;/code&gt;. If that option is not there, consider creating a new machine of a different type that's similar to what you have. I have an Anet-A8 but use the Prusa i3 printer type in Cura since that's most similar to what I have.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21076" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-05-05T22:22:10.077" LastActivityDate="2020-05-05T22:22:10.077" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13598" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13595" CreationDate="2020-05-05T00:55:04.977" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I’m using sli3r. It use nozzle size for some auto value like auto extrusion width which calculate by 105% of nozzle diameter and prevent some error like setting layer height greater than nozzle diameter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21079" LastActivityDate="2020-05-05T00:55:04.977" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13599" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13589" CreationDate="2020-05-05T01:01:29.420" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You problem clearly under extrude which mean the plastic not flow as much as it should be.&#xA;I face this problem recently here my step to solve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tune e step (do this first)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Add more temp. to nozzle (so plastic will melt and flow faster)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Slow down print speed.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Change nozzle and clean whole hotend.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21079" LastActivityDate="2020-05-05T01:01:29.420" CommentCount="12" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13600" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13595" CreationDate="2020-05-05T06:46:02.947" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Technically, you don't need the nozzle diameter. All you need is line width, layer height and filament diameter. After all, all the settings are just used to create a displacement of the filament feedstock (volumetric displacement).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But slicers do use the diameter to set initial values for some parameters, e.g. the wall width.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-05-05T07:09:12.113" LastActivityDate="2020-05-05T07:09:12.113" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13602" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12226" CreationDate="2020-05-05T09:55:52.793" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Petg it stringy material, all I can do is keep it dry to prevent blob. but I live in hot country with high moisture so I decide to keep filament in heat dryer box while print. It help a lot. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21079" LastActivityDate="2020-05-05T09:55:52.793" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13603" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13605" CreationDate="2020-05-05T10:00:47.137" Score="1" ViewCount="5181" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got a secondhand Renkforce RF1000 which I can't seem to get working properly. Initially, &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/13503/hardware-issues-id-appreciate-your-thoughts-on&quot;&gt;I asked about hardware issues that required fixing&lt;/a&gt;. After fixing those I still &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/13513/inconsistent-printing-results-using-same-settings-but-different-calibration-mode&quot;&gt;got some inconsistent printing results&lt;/a&gt;. These problems got worse with a new nozzle and new filament.  I've now narrowed it down to one problem: bad feeding&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To summary:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I've got a secondhand Renkforce RF1000&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I print using 2.85&amp;nbsp;mm PLA &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I've got a new 0.3&amp;nbsp;mm nozzle&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I've got new springs for holding the filament against the extruder&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ynZ9v.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;feeding mechanism&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;em&gt;The feeding mechanism&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem seems to be that the pressure for extruding filament through the nozzle is too high. This causes the grub screw to keep spinning without extruding filament. So in the picture, the left screw will spin and the right one will remain stationary. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This isn't consistent, it might work for a few millimetres and then stop working for a bit. It can cause the screw to grind into the filament creating a hole that cuts the filament in two. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's what I've done to try and fix it:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cleaned the nozzle with new 0.25&amp;nbsp;mm needles&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cleaned the nozzle with acetone against ABS that was stuck&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Did a few cold pulls to confirm there's no filament stuck in the heater. &#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;This wasn't the case and when removing the nozzle I could easily push or pull filament through.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tightened and loosened the screws holding the filament against the grub screw&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Too tight causes clicking or more grinding. Too loose causes the filament to just not get caught at all&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm out of ideas of how to fix this. Any help you can give is greatly appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: here are some video's extruding 50&amp;nbsp;mm of filament at 2&amp;nbsp;mm/s and 10&amp;nbsp;mm/s&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0Knx5.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0Knx5.png&quot; alt=&quot;Controls&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;Controls&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.imgur.com/9sBjkZ7.mp4&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;10 mm/s&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.imgur.com/9sBjkZ7.mp4&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;2 mm/s&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;(both links to imgur, didn't manage to get the video inline)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT 2: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I replaced the driving gear and replaced the new nozzle with an old one. I'm not sure about the size of the old one but I assume it is 0.5 mm. I calibrated the extrusion and tested at 1 mm filament per second, I now get the exact results. However, when printing two 20mm calibration cubes I get quite bad results. The first cube (left) is printed at a 1.0 extrusion multiplier and the second one (right) is printed with a 0.95 extrusion multiplier. Any idea what these quality problems are caused by? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/v0lMb.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Progress of first cube&quot;&gt;&#xA;[&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cH22X.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;New calibration cubes&quot;&gt;&#xA;[&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Cqksz.png&quot; alt=&quot;Speed settings&quot;&gt;&#xA;[&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mIHR5.png&quot; alt=&quot;Print settings&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14693" LastEditorUserId="14693" LastEditDate="2020-05-08T10:46:29.147" LastActivityDate="2020-05-08T10:46:29.147" Title="How to fix bad extrusion that's likely caused by high pressure in the nozzle" Tags="|extruder|renkforce-rf1000|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="11" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13604" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13593" CreationDate="2020-05-05T15:18:31.707" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The fuse &lt;em&gt;may&lt;/em&gt; be academic, because there might be an integrated fuseholder in the PSU itself. That said, adding another fuse in the form of a proper UK plug certainly won't hurt. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd certainly do this, too. Fuseless plugs have no place in my home/workplace&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the rest - yes, the 220V position for the switch is good. Grounding, again, certainly can't hurt, but the PSU is probably double-insulated, which doesn't require it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16795" LastActivityDate="2020-05-05T15:18:31.707" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13605" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13603" CreationDate="2020-05-05T22:38:22.357" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think you are pushing filament too fast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's go back to the basics: my hotend (old Ubis, ceramic) and extruder can push PLA at 230°C at max 80 mm/s * 0.5 mm line width * 0.2 mm layer height = 8 mm&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt;/s.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At this speed it doesn't extrude very well, there is too much back pressure (see also &lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/0xRtypDjNvI?start=6&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;). That extrusion speed means (I have 3 mm filament) 1.13 mm/s of filament speed (8 mm&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt; / 1.5&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; / pi).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You have 0.3 mm nozzle and you print colder, both of which cause more resistance to the flow. If 8 mm&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt;/s is my absolute max, yours should be about 8 * 9/16 (ratio of the nozzle surfaces) = 4.5 mm&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt;/s (really the max).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Considering the different print temperature, I would start limit to 3.5 mm&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt;/s, which is 0.55 mm/s extrusion speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you print 0.15 mm layers with line width of 0.35 mm, your absolute max printing speed should be 3.5 mm&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt; / 0.15 /0.35 = 65 mm/s (which is better not to reach, 60 is fine).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Try doing the following tests: after cleaning the driving gear, extrude 50 mm filament at 0.3 mm/s and measure how much filament has been extruded. Then repeat 50 mm with 0.5 mm/s, and measure how much filament has been extruded. Try again at 0.75 mm/s. Obviously don't touch E steps and extrusion multiplier. I'm quite sure that at 0.75 mm/s you will notice a measurably shorter length of filament extruded. At 1 mm/s you will see grinding (but not as much as now).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want, try at regular intervals 0.2, 0.3 0.4, 0.5, 0.6, 0.7 mm/s and plot a graph of the actually extruded filament length. It will look like the one in the video (where he extruded a lot more and weighed the filament, which is time consuming and more expensive).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And then switch to 0.4 mm nozzle if it's too slow for your needs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Additional information&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You use 2.85 mm filament with a direct drive, no gears. Judging from your video the radius if the driving gear (teeth) is about 4 mm, meaning 4*2*pi=25.1 mm circumference. The circumference is controlled with 200 steps * 16 microsteps, as result each microstep controls 4*2*pi/200/16 mm filament length, which is 0.05 mm&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt; and what you extrude along a 0.95 mm length (at 0.15 mm layer height and 0.35 mm line width). Basically your extruder has no control for moves shorter than 0.95 mm, but in fact it's even 4x worse, since you never get a single microstep precision (4 microsteps of tolerance is more reasonable).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should probably use a much bigger nozzle, or 1.75 mm filament, or a geared extruder, or prints will never be accurate and you will have problems all the time, which you cannot physically solve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2338" LastEditorUserId="2338" LastEditDate="2020-05-06T10:14:17.610" LastActivityDate="2020-05-06T10:14:17.610" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13607" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13594" CreationDate="2020-05-06T01:52:30.047" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Jogging the Z axis may be a sequence of very short moves, happening relatively slowly.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Homing may be a longer, faster move.  The homing move would depend more heavily on the maximum velocity, maximum acceleration, and jerk parameters.  If there are too high the z axis won't operate properly since the motors will attempt to move faster than is supported by the torque, and the rotating magnetic field will lose control of the permanent magnet rotor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To fix this, find how the motion limit parameters are controlled for your software, and reduce them all by a factor of 50. It should work, although perhaps too slowly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would also reduce the current setting.  Microstepping motors doesn't work when the magnetic field is driven to saturation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2082" LastActivityDate="2020-05-06T01:52:30.047" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13608" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6794" CreationDate="2020-05-06T14:46:27.307" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Had a similar problem with my Ender 5, just a 'static like' shock, not continous.&#xA;Put a multimeter between printer frame &amp;amp; earth with printer switched ON &amp;amp; it read 20+ volts ac continously! With printer OFF there was about 0.5V ac.&#xA;I connected an additional earth wire from the psu earth terminal to the printer frame &amp;amp; now no more shocks.&#xA;I can only assume there not a good earth connection between the psu &amp;amp; printer frame but this doesn't explain where the ac voltage is coming from.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;ps&#xA;I also measured current flow between printer frame &amp;amp; earth when the voltage was 20+ V ac &amp;amp; MM showed zero micro amps?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21096" LastActivityDate="2020-05-06T14:46:27.307" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13610" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-05-06T20:01:03.137" Score="0" ViewCount="3612" Body="&lt;p&gt;My prints start out good, but seem to warp or pull away from the build platform at a later time. Should I divide up my support bases so they're not one big base? Should I sand/roughen the build platform for better adhesion? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Printer: Elegoo Mars&#xA;Resin: Standard Grey (Elegoo)&#xA;Exposure base layers: 70 sec&#xA;Exposure elsewhere: 11 sec&#xA;Layer height: 0.05&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iJJdL.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iJJdL.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Resint print pulling away&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21101" LastActivityDate="2020-10-04T01:02:05.373" Title="Resin prints pulling away from build platform" Tags="|adhesion|resin|elegoo-mars|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13611" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11489" CreationDate="2020-05-06T20:25:52.530" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Check your retraction settings.. It's either too far or one of your priming/wipe settings is off, some slicers call it priming or extra restart distance. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your linear advance &quot;k&quot; might be set wrong if you're using linear advance.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I see a bit of under-extrusion on the between walls and center, your overlap % might a little short. Or you're printing too fast for the filament to melt and deposit. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21102" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-05-06T21:30:26.527" LastActivityDate="2020-05-06T21:30:26.527" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13612" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-05-06T21:46:20.793" Score="0" ViewCount="751" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Monoprice MP10 Mini, a cut-down Creality CR-10 with lobotomized firmware. Heated bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to do PLA prints, but have been unable to find a usable temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I set the temperatures (either nozzle or bed) too low, the initial raft layers don't stick, the print shrivels up, and the result is a tangle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I set the temperatures high enough to allow initial sticking, the raft prints okay, but after that the filament leaks out of the nozzle during long moves producing strings (only a little unsightly when outside the print area, but causing bumps when moves over the build and eventually the nozzle knocks into them) and all solid flat areas (ceilings/floors) warp.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I start with a high temp but reduce it during the print, the layers stop sticking to each other, solid areas still warp, and the printer eventually fails to extrude anything (presumably the filament congeals inside the extruder or tube, that's very unpleasant to recover from, fortunately I have some cleaning filament).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tried with multiple types of filament and multiple models (from thingiverse, converted into gcode using cura 3.6)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What should I be trying?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21090" LastActivityDate="2020-06-05T20:37:38.447" Title="Can't find a usable temperature for PLA" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|filament|creality-cr-10|print-failure|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13613" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13612" CreationDate="2020-05-06T21:51:27.637" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Try bed at 50°C and hotend at 215°C, these are safe values.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Enable retraction in the slicer, to avoid/reduce oozing during long moves, but with Bowden setups finding a good value is trickier. Try with 6 mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Set the first layer height properly, but do it AFTER the bed has been heated for 5-10 minutes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2338" LastEditorUserId="2338" LastEditDate="2020-05-07T05:50:27.710" LastActivityDate="2020-05-07T05:50:27.710" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13614" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-05-06T22:04:37.353" Score="0" ViewCount="3903" Body="&lt;p&gt;My printer is ignoring the &amp;quot;Z offset&amp;quot; setting in Cura and the &amp;quot;Bed Z&amp;quot; stored in the printer LCD settings? It has been working before but after a firmware update of my printer, it doesn't work. Even after flashing the previous firmware back &amp;quot;Bed Z&amp;quot; changes no longer affect anything. No matter if I change &amp;quot;Bed Z&amp;quot; during prints or if I use the &amp;quot;Z offset&amp;quot; option in Cura, the nozzle still prints at the same height.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21104" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-11-21T06:48:47.260" LastActivityDate="2022-09-13T12:00:50.087" Title="Z offset in Marlin is not working recently" Tags="|marlin|ultimaker-cura|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13615" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-05-06T22:53:49.887" Score="2" ViewCount="825" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a very frustrating problem, my extruder clogs up pretty much immediately after cleaning it from the previous clog and I cannot figure out what the hell is going wrong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I use a genuine E3D V6 in direct drive configuration (dual drive) and I print only PLA.&#xA;I have tried many nozzle offsets from the bed but because I have to test so frequently I am just printing in the air for now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is what I tried:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;To print using the following temperatures: 200, 205, 210 and 220&amp;nbsp;°C&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Using different brands of PLA&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lubricating filament&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Installing a filament dust cleaner&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Using both Bowden and direct configurations (my retraction setting for my direct drive setup is 0.8&amp;nbsp;mm, I am not sure what I used for the bowden but because the tube was fairly short it was probably around 3&amp;nbsp;mm. However I am not even printing I am simply running and stopping the extruder stepper, I am not using any retraction at all right now)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Buying a brand new E3D V6&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Trying both 12&amp;nbsp;V and 24&amp;nbsp;V heat cartridges (with the respective power supplies of course)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Checking the temperature with other sensors (yes the temperature is displayed correctly)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Using acetone baths to clean all parts.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Using stronger and weaker heat sink fans and fan options&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Push the filament manually&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Performing PID tunes&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even after all that the extruder clogs up usually mere seconds after it has been fully cleaned and inspected before being re-assembled. I make sure there is no bit of plastic or dust/dirt present before I re-assemble the extruder. I also hot tighten the nozzle but I also tried to run it without doing it but it made no difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would love some help with this problem because I am pulling my hair out figuring out why this keeps happening.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14509" LastEditorUserId="14509" LastEditDate="2020-05-07T11:05:14.563" LastActivityDate="2020-05-15T22:05:47.160" Title="Extruder always clogs up almost immediately after cleaning" Tags="|nozzle|e3d-v6|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13616" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13610" CreationDate="2020-05-07T00:38:28.470" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's difficult to tell from the image, but one aspect of resin printing that you want to consider when placing a model is the cross-sectional area for each layer. You'll see prints that could be printed flat on an FFF printer being placed at an angle on a resin printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This orientation presents a smaller cross-section and thereby a smaller amount of force applied when the bed lifts and peels the model from the bottom of the vat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have the ability within your slicer to scrub through the layers, observe the general area created by the slicer for each layer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you tilt the model even a few degrees from level, you'll reduce the forces involved.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It appears that you've used a &quot;priming&quot; layer on your bed, the initial layers of resin ostensibly provided to reduce the problem you're experiencing. That's a good start, but the rest of the model is generating enough peeling force to ruin the print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastActivityDate="2020-05-07T00:38:28.470" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13617" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13612" CreationDate="2020-05-07T02:37:20.650" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here is the important information from your question:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If I set the temperatures high enough to allow initial sticking, the raft prints okay, but after that the filament leaks out of the nozzle during long moves producing strings (only a little unsightly when outside the print area, but causing bumps when moves over the build and eventually the nozzle knocks into them) and all solid flat areas (ceilings/floors) warp.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have material leaking from the nozzle during moves, this means your retraction settings are wrong - either off entirely, or insufficient distance. As I understand it your printer has a bowden extruder, so retraction distance needs to be at least 5 mm and probably 6 to 6.5 mm. Note that &quot;Retract at layer change&quot; is a separate and independent option from &quot;Enable retraction&quot;, and is not really important; &quot;Enable retraction&quot; is the one that must be on. &quot;Retraction Minimum Travel&quot; should also be set very low (the Cura default of twice the line width, or slightly lower than that, is probably good).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2020-05-07T02:37:20.650" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13618" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13612" CreationDate="2020-05-07T05:47:15.620" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you get one of those lazer pointer thermometer things from the hardware store for checking the temperature of hot water pipes and stuff you can usually heat your hot end up and look at the actual temperature of your nozzle.  If it's  hotter or colder than the temperature that your filment is rated for them there should be a line of code in your firmware that will allow you to offset the temperature making it perfectly calibrated spot on.  Then you should never have to change it ever again&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21108" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-05-07T07:02:22.993" LastActivityDate="2020-05-07T07:02:22.993" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13619" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13593" CreationDate="2020-05-07T09:16:44.387" Score="1" Body="&lt;h1&gt;Safety First!&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To guarantee proper grouning and avoid putting the machine on a static charge level against the ground of the house you need to properly connect the ground wires to the ground wire of the house. This is done by using a grounded power cord with a &lt;strong&gt;C13-plug on the machine end&lt;/strong&gt; and a proper, grounded plug fitting your sockets on the other end.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Proper plugs&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In most of the continental EU (safe France), you usually can use a Shuko (Schutzkontakt) TypeF/CEE 7/3 while the Type E+F/CEE 7/7 plug adds France on the house end, as these are proper grounded 3-wire plugs. But in the UK you need a &lt;strong&gt;Type G/BS 1363 plug&lt;/strong&gt;, with or without a fuse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Fuses&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because the machine operates on mains voltage in the PSU, it usually already has a fuse mounted inside the PSU, so a fused plug is not strictly needed, however it is not a bad idea to include an extra fuse - technically you'd end with 3 in total if you are properly grounded because the circuits breaker-box fuse is there too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Wire Extensions&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What would be a bad idea though is to use any extension cord in the wiring that is not grounded because it might use a plastic ground pin or lack the metal contact surface needed to ground the cord.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Improper plugs&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A 2-wire &amp;quot;Europlug&amp;quot;. Europlug CEE 7/16 is only rated for 250V/2.5A and &lt;strong&gt;not grounded&lt;/strong&gt;, thus it is &lt;strong&gt;not&lt;/strong&gt; suitable for operating a 3D printer , and I strongly advise &lt;strong&gt;not&lt;/strong&gt; to use a gritish folding plug either as it is not grounded!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Safety Mantra!&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let me reiterate this: &lt;strong&gt;Only use grounded connections from machine to socket or you risk creating a charge on the machine!&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check your socket's ground if you are not sure it is properly installed. For further information, I strongly suggest watch &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v1OuYg7AJjw&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Angus (Makers Muse)&lt;/a&gt; with how he discovered a problem with his extension cords leading to a potential dangerous charge on his machine and &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3jYZDLOV4Jc&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;DIY3D Tech&lt;/a&gt; explaining the basics of the problem and how to solve it to you again!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:29:41.667" LastActivityDate="2020-05-07T09:42:29.810" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13620" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-05-07T14:39:59.630" Score="2" ViewCount="3950" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a printer with the following dimensions: L300 x W300 x H400. After flashing Marlin software, the extruder keeps homing at X77 Y50 instead of X150 Y150 that is the center of the printing area for me. Where can I find the appropriate line in config file in order to edit it with preferred coordinates. Unfortunately I can only find info on how to change offset of origin point. In my case origin point is correcty set.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21112" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-05-07T21:40:09.677" LastActivityDate="2021-07-04T00:08:25.810" Title="Define coordinates for Z homing" Tags="|homing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13621" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13620" CreationDate="2020-05-07T15:49:50.227" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you enabled &lt;code&gt;Z_SAFE_HOMING&lt;/code&gt;, then automatically the printer homes Z at the middle of the build plate, if the bed size dimensions are correctly defined (in your case &lt;code&gt;X_BED_SIZE&lt;/code&gt; and &lt;code&gt;X_BED_SIZE&lt;/code&gt; should be defined as 300).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In &lt;code&gt;Configuration.h&lt;/code&gt; you can find:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#define Z_SAFE_HOMING&#xA;&#xA;#if ENABLED(Z_SAFE_HOMING)&#xA;  #define Z_SAFE_HOMING_X_POINT ((X_BED_SIZE) / 2)    // X point for Z homing when homing all axes (G28).&#xA;  #define Z_SAFE_HOMING_Y_POINT ((Y_BED_SIZE) / 2)    // Y point for Z homing when homing all axes (G28).&#xA;#endif&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If &lt;code&gt;Z_SAFE_HOMING&lt;/code&gt; was enabled, and the bed properly dimensioned, it could be that the steps/mm are incorrectly defined.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that if a probe is used, the offset of the probe to the nozzle center is taken into account, this implies that the probe is moved to the center, not the nozzle. The code responsible for this is found in &lt;code&gt;G28.cpp&lt;/code&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;/**&#xA; * Move the Z probe (or just the nozzle) to the safe homing point&#xA; * (Z is already at the right height)&#xA; */&#xA;destination.set(safe_homing_xy, current_position.z);&#xA;&#xA;TERN_(HOMING_Z_WITH_PROBE, destination -= probe.offset_xy);&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;I.e. the ternary operation (&lt;code&gt;TERN_&lt;/code&gt;) determines the addition of the probe offset.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-10-06T21:48:12.783" LastActivityDate="2020-10-06T21:48:12.783" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13622" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13615" CreationDate="2020-05-08T01:23:31.687" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have had one roll of filament that did this.  I'd get a jam, clean it out, and immediately jam again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I got the filament from a friend who had reported problems using it, but I thought, &quot;I have a Prusa3D i3m3-mmu2, I can print with anything.&quot;  Unfortunately, I could not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I threw away the filament (first I've ever jetisoned so callously), replaced the nozzle, and was back in business.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, some filament just doesn't work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But, there is another possible problem to check -- you might have a problem with stepper driver.  Even with low current from a blown driver or badly adjusted driver, the extruder motor may spin.  It may even be able to extrude filament into the air through the hot nozzle.  But, the torque may not be sufficient to force the molten plastic as it pushes against the build plate.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pushing the molten plastic against the build plate so that it &quot;smooshes&quot; well requires pressure, which comes from the push on the filament from the extruder gear, which comes from the torque of the motor, which comes from the current from the driver, which may be either blown or seriously mal-adjusted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2082" LastEditorUserId="2082" LastEditDate="2020-05-15T21:56:22.757" LastActivityDate="2020-05-15T21:56:22.757" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13623" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7683" CreationDate="2020-05-08T03:04:20.417" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;After a couple of hundred hours of successful (mostly) prints, I heard weird thumping of the feeder and though it fed filament it would not extract it completely for a color change. Tried a number of tricks to fix that without success. Then I read here about just using compressed air to clean the wheels and the feed channel. Voila! Success. Maybe that won't solve it the next time but it cleared this problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21119" LastActivityDate="2020-05-08T03:04:20.417" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13624" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-05-08T06:08:12.467" Score="1" ViewCount="228" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hello everyone I'm developing a system to remotely manage several printers at the same time, using the OctoPrint API. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would like to know if there is any way to emulate printers to do the tests, because I only have one printer and I would need several, even if they were virtual.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/buserror/simreprap&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;simrerap&lt;/a&gt; but it seems to be too old, and didn't work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13361" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2020-05-11T20:39:18.553" LastActivityDate="2020-05-11T20:39:18.553" Title="3D printer emulator" Tags="|software|octoprint|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13625" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-05-08T06:55:21.510" Score="2" ViewCount="335" Body="&lt;p&gt;I own an older Anet A6. Flashed the Marlin Firmware on it (and think I configured it properly). Also updated to the latest 2.0.5.3 some days ago). The nozzle is a 0.4&amp;nbsp;mm one, direct drive extruder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When printing calibration cubes I used &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT   { 99.7,  96.4, 400, 91.6 }&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;settings to correct for what I measured earlier. So the printed cube 20x20x20&amp;nbsp;mm came out almost &quot;perfect&quot;.&#xA;Yet I faced another problem: scaling. So printing stuff 100&amp;nbsp;mm wide resulted in 97.2&amp;nbsp;mm prints. As if an error multiplied with the distance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I created a test object consisting of multiple &quot;rectangles&quot; (overlayed) in X and Y direction. Some of the dimensions were less than required and others bigger.&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/roeIJ.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/roeIJ.png&quot; alt=&quot;test cross to calibrate&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the holes (&quot;drills&quot;) were 0.4&amp;nbsp;mm too small (so half a nozzle diameter). In &quot;Cura&quot; I could fix that with the newly added inner hole correction or negative horizontal expansion values. Yet this would also &quot;cut&quot; the thin parts (top and right rectangle on the image - with a width of 1.2&amp;nbsp;mm - so 3 lanes of print material on my 0.4&amp;nbsp;mm nozzle).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Without and with adjustment the inner width of the rectangles is also off by more than 0.2&amp;nbsp;mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I printed with my normal speeds (80&amp;nbsp;mm/s for fill and even slower for other stuff) which creates fine output except the accuracy. I also printed at 20&amp;nbsp;% of this speed (so &amp;lt;10&amp;nbsp;mm/s for the first layer!) without any change. So it should not be the &quot;acceleration/jerk&quot; creating the issues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I then restarted calibrating everything:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;calibrated extruder (10&amp;nbsp;cm filament ... and measuring how much was really moved), was not off by more than 1&amp;nbsp;mm&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;calibrated axis by moving nozzle to a specific point and measuring X/Y/Z movement ... I needed to go back to 99.9 for X, 99.9 for Y and 101 for Z). So almost back to vendor settings.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I moved the hotend over and over - replicated the exact movement in all directions 20 times each. It did not &quot;slide&quot;, so stuff started and ended exactly at the same spot each time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now I printed my test cross (and other stuff) and while the X-Axis was only a bit off &quot;outside&quot; (inside still a bit more off), the Y-Axis was only 97&amp;nbsp;% and height as it should.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I printed via:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;RepetierHost 2.1.6&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cura 4.6.1&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;RepetierHost 2.1.6 + Cura exported gcode file and adjusted &quot;speed&quot; (25&amp;nbsp;% of Cura-settings)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sum up:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;calibrated extruder (10&amp;nbsp;cm filament measurement), calibrated axis (measured movement distance)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;printed at very slow speed to avoid &quot;acceleration/jerk&quot;-inaccuracy (did it do that?)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;prints are inaccurate yet precise (multiple prints result in same incorrect output)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;calibrating &quot;steps per unit&quot; via calibration cube results in perfect calibration cubes but still &quot;too small inner holes&quot; and inaccurate prints of bigger dimensions&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So: how to properly fix that issue? How to calibrate the dimension accuracy properly - is there something more than &quot;steps per unit&quot; to adjust?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tried to find an answer here and elsewhere on the internet but seems I lack the right term to search for to find an answer. Hope you could help me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21122" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-05-08T07:53:16.767" LastActivityDate="2020-05-08T09:35:14.047" Title="Low Accuracy while perfect travel movement" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|calibration|anet-a6|repetier-host|dimensional-accuracy|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13626" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13625" CreationDate="2020-05-08T09:19:00.483" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You &lt;em&gt;shouldn't&lt;/em&gt; calibrate the steps/mm for the X, Y, and Z axes. Just use the default settings which are based on the theoretical values for the given belts/leadscrews/threaded rods.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The mistake is in assuming that the error in the dimensions of the 20x20x20 calibration cube are purely due to the steps/mm setting. Due to a variety of reasons (inconsistent extrusion, measurement error, slop in the printer, backlash) no printed part will have its dimensions be perfectly accurate (no FDM 3D printer is capable of better than a few tenths of a millimeter accuracy in part dimensions). When you calibrate the steps/mm so that a 20x20x20 cube comes out &quot;perfect&quot;, you are hiding all of these &lt;em&gt;non-linear&lt;/em&gt; inaccuracies in a &lt;em&gt;linear&lt;/em&gt; compensation of the steps/mm. When you then print a larger part, these inaccuracies (which are incorrectly compensated for in the steps/mm) get blown up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Suppose your calipers had a constant error of +0.1&amp;nbsp;mm, i.e. every measurement reads 0.1&amp;nbsp;mm higher than it should. If you calibrate your steps/mm so that a 20x20x20 calibration cube comes out &quot;perfect&quot;; the actual size of the calibration cube would be 19.9&amp;nbsp;mm (which your calipers would read as 20&amp;nbsp;mm). If you then were to print a 100&amp;nbsp;mm part, it would come out as 99.5&amp;nbsp;mm which your calipers would read as 99.6&amp;nbsp;mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;If&lt;/strong&gt; you insist on calibrating the steps/mm you should do so by &lt;em&gt;printing a part as large as possible&lt;/em&gt;. This ensures that the constant error is divided over a large part size, giving a better estimation of the actual steps/mm. However, usually the theoretical value is more accurate than what you can measure yourself, even with a part taking up the entire print bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;10 cm filament ... and measuring how much was really moved&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;10 cm is a very short length; you would get a much more accurate calibration with a 100 cm length. However, calibrating the e-steps very precisely is kind of pointless. It is hard to do so precisely because extruding into free air (and at possibly a different speed than when actually printing) will result in a different amount of resistance and thus a different length of extrusion than during an actual print. You will need to calibrate for the diameter and flow characteristics of the actual filament anyways, during which calibration you can much more effectively compensate for small inaccuracies of the extruder steps/mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Perhaps it would be a good idea to look into the rigidity of the entire printer and how securely the parts are mounted. If there is a lot of play in the bed or hotend this could also explain why parts are turning out oversized.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-05-08T09:35:14.047" LastActivityDate="2020-05-08T09:35:14.047" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13627" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-05-09T02:38:22.017" Score="1" ViewCount="132" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is my first time posting on this forum, so bear with me:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is my first attempt at a RepRap project, and my go-to board has been the RepRapDiscount MKS Rumba+ since I wanted to have functionality with the Makerbase TFT28 Touch-Screen Display. The printer that I have been converting is a 3D Systems Cube 3rd generation. I have successfully modified the printer to accommodate my board and electronics, but have had many issues finding a power supply up to the task of driving the steppers and the heaters (my most recent attempt was using the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.ebay.com/itm/Makerbase-MKS-PWC-Power-Monitoring-Auto-Power-Off-Module-Auto-Off-After-Printing/202971843008?hash=item2f421089c0:g:ws8AAOSwfOlenz-R&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Makerbase PWC 2.0 auto-off module&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I followed all of the connections to the letter, looking at numerous forums to verify everything was correct, connections were very tight, modifying the original supply cord. My printer powered up and everything functioned properly, except there was no way to turn it off after initially turning it on (&lt;code&gt;M80&lt;/code&gt; and &lt;code&gt;M81&lt;/code&gt; had no effect). I read on the above link that I had to change my value on &lt;code&gt;PS_SUPPLY&lt;/code&gt; to 2 and add a &lt;code&gt;PS_ON_PIN&lt;/code&gt; in Marlin (not sure to which one on a Rumba+), which I was to perform. However, when I tried to upload my revised firmware through USB, for whatever reason my USB port was not responding at all when I plugged it into my computer (it doesn't show up in device manager anymore either, which is strange since I was able to upload an updated firmware sketch less than a week ago), although everything that was previously on my board was still there, and hence I &lt;em&gt;had&lt;/em&gt; a functional printer board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately, I convinced myself that in order to make the changes I needed to get my PWC module to work as intended, I needed to get the updated firmware onto the board somehow. So I looked up forums regarding the original Rumba (I couldn't find nearly any regarding Rumba+) on how to program it through using a USBasp programmer, which involved converting a ten-pin ribbon cable to a six-wire ISCP connection on the Rumba+. I paid extra-close attention when wiring these, following a diagram outlining where to connect each of the six wires detailed in the following YouTube video at 4:25.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/jgHIFWPUe_M?start=0&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I then selected &amp;quot;USBasp&amp;quot; as my programmer, and attempted to upload this way. I could see my Rumba+ responding, which gave me hope, but then the upload failed. Unfortunately, as I was to later learn, uploading via ISP also undoes the bootloader pre-configured into the board; and thus, I also managed to brick my board amidst all of this trouble.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have been searching every forum possible, reading about ten Instructables on how to undo a bricked printer board (none for Rumba+, but for other ATmega2560-based boards, so I tried to work off of them). (I have since removed my power supply). I have used both my USBasp and my Arduino Uno as ISP, and tried using the guidance provided by Nick Gammon at &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.gammon.com.au/bootloader&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.gammon.com.au/bootloader&lt;/a&gt;, which seemed to re-download the bootloader according to the sketch, but all of my attempts to re-upload the Marlin firmware have still failed. My most recent error has been:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;avrdude: stk500v2_ReceiveMessage(): timeout&#xA;avrdude: stk500v2_ReceiveMessage(): timeout&#xA;avrdude: stk500v2_ReceiveMessage(): timeout&#xA;avrdude: stk500v2_ReceiveMessage(): timeout&#xA;avrdude: stk500v2_ReceiveMessage(): timeout&#xA;avrdude: stk500v2_ReceiveMessage(): timeout&#xA;avrdude: stk500v2_getsync(): timeout communicating with programmer&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my experience, this error has been very vague in what it entails, and I'm inclined to believe that my USB-to-serial ATMega16U2 was damaged when I powered on using the Mks PWC (I suspect this because I don't recall any issues prior-to using the MKS pwc), though I read that the Rumba board does occasionally have this issue at random. My question is that &lt;strong&gt;am I on the right track&lt;/strong&gt; in trying to restore my board through ISP via my Uno and/or UsbAsp, or &lt;strong&gt;is my board damaged beyond repair and unuseable?&lt;/strong&gt; I can live with not having a serial connection to my board via USB (since I have a wifi module for my TFT28 display), I just need to find a way to get Marlin back onto my Rumba+ (I will resolve the power supply issues later).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21134" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-07-17T00:45:31.527" LastActivityDate="2021-07-17T00:45:31.527" Title="Bricked Mks Rumba+ Board after Power Supply Trouble" Tags="|marlin|troubleshooting|firmware|arduino|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13629" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-05-09T12:33:43.223" Score="1" ViewCount="4810" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an extrusion problem with my creality CR 10 3D printer while printing.&#xA;I am using a standard 0.4&amp;nbsp;mm nozzle with a 1.75&amp;nbsp;mm diameter PLA and I use Cura as my slicer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This printer worked perfectly fine and I stopped using it a few months ago right after the problem started.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I try printing a &lt;code&gt;.gcode&lt;/code&gt; file, the first layer is very thin but visible (it seems like the glass bed is engraved). However, after the first layer is complete, the extruder stops working properly. It moves forward then jumps backwards so it looks like the filament isn’t moving (I can also see the extruder’s marks on the filament). Also, the axis seem to move fine in all directions as I’m able to see a clear first layer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, when I go into the “prepare” menu of my printer and move the extruder, it works great as the filament flow is very smooth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hence, the problem is only visible while printing. I don’t think there’s a problem with the &lt;code&gt;.gcode&lt;/code&gt; files as I printed them perfectly fine beforehand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21137" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-05-09T22:24:47.027" LastActivityDate="2021-10-04T08:15:54.730" Title="Creality CR-10 problems with extrusion while printing" Tags="|filament|extruder|extrusion|creality-cr-10|underextrusion|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13631" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13572" CreationDate="2020-05-09T16:13:23.260" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If TPU ends up not being rigid enough for you:&#xA;I've had good enough luck with ABS coated in automotive RTV.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thing with ABS though is that it's a special (not so)&quot;solid&quot; that gets softer as it gets hotter.  My use had water in it when warm so wasn't too much of an issue, and it never experienced freezing temperatures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also it hasn't been 5 years yet.  ~2 years and counting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21141" LastEditorUserId="21141" LastEditDate="2020-05-09T16:18:32.343" LastActivityDate="2020-05-09T16:18:32.343" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13632" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13642" CreationDate="2020-05-09T20:18:29.180" Score="3" ViewCount="359" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've had the Ender 5 Pro, as is, for 3 months.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After I tried a cheap PLA filament (maybe too cheap), it clogged the nozzle. I cleaned it, but any other filament I have would have similar problems from then on. After some days doing test prints, it clogged again. This time, I heated it up to 240&amp;nbsp;ºC, I unscrew the nozzle, cleaned it up, chopped the Capricorn tube (it had clear symptoms of a previous tube not reaching the bottom of the hotend and leaking material around it), perfectly aligned, cleaned the heating block with a brass brush, started screwing the nozzle… and it never reaches the end. It even jiggles a little bit (by &quot;jiggles&quot;, I mean that when the hotend is hot, you can push the nozzle back and forth, and it does move... like it was a joint, and not a threaded bolt), like it was too small for the block. I try screwing a new nozzle. Same happens.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To me it looks like the heating block thread broke, but I can't be sure. I tried a thicker nozzle (0.8&amp;nbsp;mm, but same thread in the end) and it worked. I could feed filament and it wouldn't look like clogged (at least for 15&amp;nbsp;cm of feeding filament, when in previous cases it was almost instantaneous).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Time to get a new heating block? Any recommendation?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would another kind of heating block be better?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: Here's a picture of the bottom of the heating block. Now it's clear there's a metal chip glued with material, and almost (if any) no thread at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gt8Cb.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gt8Cb.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;broken heating material&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another question. Could it have been that cheap material that caused the clogging, or was it just a lack of proper maintenance?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21144" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-05-11T10:56:10.937" LastActivityDate="2020-05-11T10:56:10.937" Title="Nozzle jiggles when screwing into heating block" Tags="|nozzle|creality-ender-5|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13634" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-05-10T08:13:58.563" Score="2" ViewCount="56" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have this CTC i3 printer; when I print square test prints, as it moves along the Y-axis back to zero (front). It extrudes lines but very thin or none at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But opposite direction along the Y axis is 100&amp;nbsp;% &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BChHj.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PvPDT.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21150" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-05-10T13:04:15.000" LastActivityDate="2021-10-03T21:59:29.193" Title="CTC i3 Y-axis thin / no filament deposition" Tags="|prusa-i3|pla|y-axis|underextrusion|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13635" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-05-10T10:36:46.750" Score="4" ViewCount="57" Body="&lt;p&gt;When importing &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.file-upload.net/download-14067778/Bmw_Sensor_Halter.stl.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this .stl file&lt;/a&gt; in Creality Slicer another face appears in the middle when viewed in layered view. This face is not visible in my 3d modeling software Blender. I tried cleaning up the model a bit and to triangulate the faces myself, neither helped and the problem is still there. Also I didn't find anything online.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wIWCw.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wIWCw.png&quot; alt=&quot;Normal View&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kjnfb.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kjnfb.png&quot; alt=&quot;Layered View&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21152" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2020-07-13T11:24:23.703" LastActivityDate="2020-07-13T11:24:23.703" Title="Face where there should be no face" Tags="|3d-models|stl|blender|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13636" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13635" CreationDate="2020-05-10T11:28:43.717" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;At the intersection of the top and bottom planes of the cross-piece and the cylinder, there are non-manifold edges. Meshmixer is able to identify this problem but cannot repair it. My slicer, Simplify3D also identifies the faults and prints a solid cylinder between the planes. Prusa Slicer 2 also creates a solid at that location.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you've indicated that you are the creator, consider to use the &lt;a href=&quot;https://daler.github.io/blender-for-3d-printing/printing/3d-print-toolbox.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;3D printing features&lt;/a&gt; within Blender to assist you with repairing the problem locations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;File ‣ User Preferences (or &lt;kbd&gt;Ctrl&lt;/kbd&gt;-&lt;kbd&gt;Alt&lt;/kbd&gt;-&lt;kbd&gt;U&lt;/kbd&gt;)&#xA;  to open the User Preferences menu.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;In the Add-ons tab, start typing 3d print into the search bar. Once&#xA;  the “Mesh: 3D Print Toolbox” shows up, click the checkbox on the far&#xA;  right to enable this add-on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Close the User Preferences window.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;In the Tool Shelf, there should be a new 3D Printing tab.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/h24LJ.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/h24LJ.png&quot; alt=&quot;3d printing tab&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastEditorUserId="8353" LastEditDate="2020-05-15T22:14:33.573" LastActivityDate="2020-05-15T22:14:33.573" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13637" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13672" CreationDate="2020-05-10T12:08:36.423" Score="0" ViewCount="147" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I try to print something that is not the test model already on the SD, which means when I try to slice something in Cura 4 and than I start the print, the nozzle stops at Z=15&amp;nbsp;mm and only the extruder motor goes foward and backward. I tried to modify the G-code but I didn't solve the problem. I need help because it's my first delta 3D printer and I don't know what to do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20955" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-05-10T19:56:37.157" LastActivityDate="2020-06-15T07:04:05.393" Title="FLSUN QQ doesn't print and stops at Z=15 mm" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|delta|flsun-qq|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13638" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13734" CreationDate="2020-05-10T20:19:32.777" Score="1" ViewCount="743" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I load a figure in Cura 4.6.1 I get weird dots all over my figure in &lt;code&gt;Prepare&lt;/code&gt;-mode.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kmuhK.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kmuhK.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How come, and can I turn it off?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's on every model I load :( I am fairly sure the normals are facing the correct way as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21154" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-05-23T12:59:57.593" LastActivityDate="2020-05-23T12:59:57.593" Title="Dots in Cura on Prepare-mode" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13639" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13632" CreationDate="2020-05-10T20:23:22.240" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the threads are damaged badly enough not to hold a nozzle rigidly, you should replace the heating block, but there might be hacks you could do to keep using it for a while until you're ready to replace. I've had luck replacing threads in completely unrelated applications with epoxy, and if you can get one that handles and transmits the heat well enough (maybe JB Weld? not sure) it might work here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't think there's any indication you need to change to a different kind of heating block. That would only be indicated if there were lots of other people reporting the same problem you're having with your printer model or similar ones. It seems more likely that, if they're damaged, you just did it by over-tightening or over-vigorous cleaning with the brush.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-05-11T09:23:46.767" LastActivityDate="2020-05-11T09:23:46.767" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13640" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13641" CreationDate="2020-05-10T22:10:37.333" Score="1" ViewCount="1006" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've recently configured my Bigtreetech mini e3 v1.2, and I have every aspect of the printer running well except for the initialized homing sequence (the problem is sometimes small enough to where I can still get a good print). Originally what I was running into was that because I used two Z stepper motors, any movement that wasn't manual input on Pronterface would cause the motors to vibrate and make noise (not enough current). Now the only time the Z motors make noise/vibrate is right after the homing is complete and they briefly move up when the nozzle begins to heat, as well as right after the heating is done and the nozzle dips down to begin the print. I suspect it's because of a fast increase in Z speed that I don't necessary need. I've tried changing a multitude of settings in &lt;code&gt;Configuration.h&lt;/code&gt; but haven't had any luck. Does anybody know the command that dictates the Z motors to very quickly move upward just after homing and before heating?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20505" LastEditorUserId="4922" LastEditDate="2021-04-21T13:24:12.660" LastActivityDate="2021-04-21T13:24:12.660" Title="Prevent raising Z-axis after homing" Tags="|g-code|z-axis|homing|bigtreetech|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13641" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13640" CreationDate="2020-05-11T02:54:24.967" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just solved my own problem. Instead of looking in Marlin for the command, I found out the reason it was lifting up quickly was because of a custom command embedded in the G-code by the slicer. I got rid of the command and the problem was solved. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20505" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-05-11T04:41:22.707" LastActivityDate="2020-05-11T04:41:22.707" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13642" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13632" CreationDate="2020-05-11T07:57:49.397" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You need to order a new heating block (just a few bucks/euros, so order 2, and spare nozzles, you don't want to install the old nozzles), you completely worn out the threads, this is beyond repair. It looks as if you used too much force to secure the nozzle into place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is how it is supposed to look:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FoSyd.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FoSyd.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can find these cheaply at those typical Chinese vending platforms or online marketplaces. Just search for and Ender / CR-10 heater block.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Typical dimensions are found below:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/r6Ny0.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/r6Ny0.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-05-11T08:08:26.250" LastActivityDate="2020-05-11T08:08:26.250" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13643" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13629" CreationDate="2020-05-11T15:58:53.247" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Clearly you're having an extrusion problem. Extrusion problems usually come either from a clogged nozzle (as @Adam S. said) or from the extruder it self. To determine where the problem is located I would first do a flow rate test using &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lWBkPIXTOlo&amp;amp;feature=emb_logo&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt;. When doing this test you can determine if the extruder is grinding the filament or if it's not grabbing it too much. After the calibration of the flowrate you can be certain that the printer is (by .gcode) pushing the correct amount of filament. If the problem persist I would first do an unclogging (since it's cheaper than the following option) using something like &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XR7tUVLku14&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If both previous options do not solve the problem, I would highly recommend you to by a mk-8 like metal extruder. After a while, the plastic one that comes with the printer loses force and you'll lose steps. Personally, I had a similar problem where the first layer was printed in a droplet pattern and was solved by changing the extruder to a metal one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Try these options and if the problem persist you could upload some pictures of the first layer or a video. Other possibilities I think of are that the filament is having trouble passing through the Bowden tube or maybe you'll have to reasemble the hotend.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20704" LastActivityDate="2020-05-11T15:58:53.247" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13644" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13634" CreationDate="2020-05-11T16:21:13.193" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can see a couple of problems in your images:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your bed is clearly and awfully unleveled. Check on Youtube some manual leveling using a paper.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Though I think your problems will be solved by correct leveling, if not, check &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/13463/raised-lines-on-top-layer-surface-ender-3/13517#13517&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; thread where I explain a little bit about E-step and flow rate calibration. Having these parameters right is crucial for a good first layer.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I don't know what you are using for layer adhesion but if after doing steps 1 and 2 the problem persists I would heat up a little bit the bed and change the adhesion material (glue, hairspray).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20704" LastActivityDate="2020-05-11T16:21:13.193" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13648" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13685" CreationDate="2020-05-12T20:38:33.183" Score="0" ViewCount="1061" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to compress different 3D files, but find it difficult to find the right software to compress the file.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are the most suitable 3D file compressors to compress 3D files like STL, OBJ and STEP?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have tried Draco, and mac zip compressor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21172" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-05-13T14:39:41.070" LastActivityDate="2021-09-25T04:22:01.857" Title="How do I compress 3D files" Tags="|3d-models|software|file-formats|open-source|obj|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13649" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8022" CreationDate="2020-05-12T21:44:46.910" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had trouble with the first few layers looking like over extruding (they were just compressed). Turns out the X axis was loose.  On zeroing for a new print the arm would be sloped like this |/| as the Z axis lifted it would slowly end up |\| over the duration of the print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21173" LastActivityDate="2020-05-12T21:44:46.910" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13650" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13572" CreationDate="2020-05-13T03:09:16.040" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Instead of TPU or ABS, you might also want to try ASA. It has a better resistance against weather, so it might help you here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a little article about ASA filament: &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprintingindustry.com/news/testing-asa-3d-printing-filament-weather-resistant-alternative-abs-62785/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Article&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And &lt;a href=&quot;https://all3dp.com/2/asa-filament-explained-and-compared/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this article&lt;/a&gt; lists its pros as having a strong UV resistance, high wear and impact resistance, and high glass transition temperature. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Overall, you might want to give this a try. Hope it helps!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16308" LastActivityDate="2020-05-13T03:09:16.040" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13651" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-05-13T12:36:23.163" Score="0" ViewCount="956" Body="&lt;p&gt;How can I include homing X and Y  of a Marlin firmware operating printer after I press the stop printing in the display?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In which folder I need include the command?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21186" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-05-14T08:46:51.193" LastActivityDate="2020-05-14T08:46:51.193" Title="Homing X and Y after stopping print through display" Tags="|marlin|firmware|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13652" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13612" CreationDate="2020-05-13T15:51:01.267" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;First, you shouldn't need a raft for most PLA prints. That will help you get better bed adhesion at lower temperatures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second, you can reduce the stringing by increasing travel speeds (120&amp;nbsp;mm/s is not too fast) and a small amount of retraction: around 1.5&amp;nbsp;mm for direct drive and 5-6&amp;nbsp;mm for bowden.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With those settings, you should be able to print most PLA with a bed at anywhere from 50-60&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C and an extruder at anywhere from 190 to 215&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12562" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-05-16T21:52:24.683" LastActivityDate="2020-05-16T21:52:24.683" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13653" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-05-13T20:27:11.113" Score="1" ViewCount="3015" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I have overhangs in my model, Cura colors them red. However, I noticed if I make layer thickness thinner, the red area is reduced or disappears. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This could mean that thinner layer thickness is better for overhang, but it could also mean that a larger ratio of line width to layer thickness is better. It makes sense that if line width is 4X the layer thickness (such as 0.15 layers with 0.6 line width), overhang performance should be better than if line width is only 2X (such as 0.3 layers with the same 0.6 line width.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a model that explains the optimum ratio of line thickness to layer height? Is only the ratio important, or is layer height also important by itself?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20999" LastActivityDate="2020-08-12T19:05:10.547" Title="Optimum ratio of line width to layer thickness for overhang performance?" Tags="|extrusion|bridging|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13656" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-05-14T02:12:24.510" Score="1" ViewCount="821" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got an Anycubic Predator (aka Anycubic D). I followed the official instructions and leveled my printer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first annoying problem I ran into is that after the auto-leveling, the level test printing shows that the printer wasn't leveled at all. I tried about 4-5 times, and finally leveled the printer (I thought I just got lucky).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The second problem that isn't solved is that the prints I get are of poor quality. Shown in &lt;em&gt;figure 1&lt;/em&gt; and &lt;em&gt;figure 2&lt;/em&gt;. The cube should be 20x20x20&amp;nbsp;mm, but what I got here is 19.6(x) x 20.4(y) x 20.5(z)&amp;nbsp;mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xeclv.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xeclv.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;fig1&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;em&gt;Figure 1 - X-Y (side) view of calibration square&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4YkU0.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4YkU0.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;fig2&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;em&gt;Figure 2 - Z (top) view of calibration square&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone have any idea about how to improve the printer's printing quality? Thanks in advance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17222" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-05-14T11:42:54.917" LastActivityDate="2020-05-20T13:56:27.787" Title="Still got poor printing quality after calibrating my Anycubic Predator" Tags="|print-quality|calibration|delta|anycubic-predator|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13657" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13653" CreationDate="2020-05-14T02:15:45.793" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;In terms of Cura's model for showing overhangs, I'm nearly sure it's just the ratio - rise over run, or rather run over rise. And indeed that's what makes sense mathematically:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At least some portion of the wall extrusion in layer N+1 needs to sit on top of the corresponding wall extrusion in layer N. For a given 3D surface slope, the &quot;run&quot; - the distance the cross-section moves from one layer to the next, which needs to be bounded by some fraction of the line width - varies proportionally to the &quot;rise&quot; - the layer height.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2020-05-14T02:15:45.793" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13658" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13651" CreationDate="2020-05-14T06:53:19.807" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's &lt;code&gt;EVENT_GCODE_SD_STOP&lt;/code&gt; in the &lt;code&gt;configuration_adv.h&lt;/code&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/blob/2.0.x/Marlin/Configuration_adv.h#L1050&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;file&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It appears to have been &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/pull/13547/commits/2dc6b58c230a8fb5a307a82f83e2080de84d0f49&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;added to Marlin 2.0.x on 2019-04-03&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13171" LastActivityDate="2020-05-14T06:53:19.807" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13659" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13653" CreationDate="2020-05-14T07:27:55.817" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A wide line works if there is something below it to squeeze the filament against, but if you don't have a full layer below it, it will stay thinner and it will droop. I would not use extreme ratios on overhangs. Still, do a parametric test: a overhang tower (a compact one) at different line widths and layer heights. If you test 3 layer heights and 3 line widths, it's only 9 short prints.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, as you can see in filament reviews, different materials behave differently. I think there is no &lt;em&gt;a priori&lt;/em&gt; optimal value.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2338" LastEditorUserId="2338" LastEditDate="2020-07-13T18:45:47.293" LastActivityDate="2020-07-13T18:45:47.293" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13660" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13663" CreationDate="2020-05-14T08:29:45.800" Score="2" ViewCount="2279" Body="&lt;p&gt;From what I understand, UV curing of resin prints works by starting a chemical reaction that hardens the resin permanently.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, a curing step after print is needed to speed up the print and also to reduce the curing during print, which would cure resin beyond the current layer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, what is the transmissivity of UV light in partially cured prints? If I print a more massive object, or if I use an opaque resin, how deep will the object harden properly? Absorption is always exponential, meaning that it decreases quickly with depth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on the resin, how thick prints can be effectively cured? This information is not provided with the resin, which I actually would expect from reputable manufacturers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2338" LastEditorUserId="11242" LastEditDate="2020-05-14T11:00:33.153" LastActivityDate="2020-05-14T14:29:26.630" Title="Can UV cure inside opaque or more massive printed object?" Tags="|resin|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13661" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13656" CreationDate="2020-05-14T11:50:29.820" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A few tenths of a millimeter are pretty common for 3D printed parts; these are related to the printer hardware. These inaccuracies can be exaggerated by over- or under-extrusion; e.g. if too much filament is extruded, it increases the outer dimensions (and decreases the inner dimensions of holes).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The images show some signs of over-extrusion, maybe a little too hot also.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2020-05-14T11:50:29.820" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13662" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13660" CreationDate="2020-05-14T12:51:21.430" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;From what I know about the various resins, once they are printed they are cured enough. Some of the transparent ones require additional curing, however the manufactures of the machines only test based on the max size that their machines can print. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The resin never stops curing apparently, going into diminishing returns; curing slower and slower as time goes on. Only way you will know for sure is by experimentation. You should get a poly-carbonate tube, place black tape along one side then spray paint the rest black. This will leave a window that you can use for future observation. Seal the bottom, and pour in uncured resin. Leave it under a UV source for 2 weeks then peal the tape off to see how much of it has cured. Then come back here and ask Trish to do the math on what the co-efficients of absorption are for the material :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12857" LastActivityDate="2020-05-14T12:51:21.430" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13663" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13660" CreationDate="2020-05-14T14:29:26.630" Score="1" Body="&lt;h2&gt;My background&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am not a polymer chemist.  I know some, and I've talked about UV curing resins with them.  These are my conclusions based on that informal education.  Your expertise may well be better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Minimizing curing on the printer is good&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the maximum print rate and best layer adhesion, the resin should cure during the printing exposure the minimum amount that is consistent with the object supporting itself during the print, being removable from the bed, being rinsed in isopropyl alcohol, and stand on its own during curing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are curing too completely during exposure, you won't get optimal mixing of polymer chains between layers.  The layers will be attached by the glue-like action of the new layer on the old, rather than having their polymer chains cross-linked and extending between layers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are curing too little, the object won't be strong enough to support itself and survive post-processing.  Soft, gummy bits may dissolve, or be swept away by currents in the cleaning solution.  Small details may not be robust enough.  Supporting structures (as added supports or parts of the model) may not be strong enough to resist gravity and handling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are curing too completely, your print will take longer than it could take.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Curing is not binary&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Curing will take place spontaneously over a long time.  If it didn't, a bottle of resin might last a very long time.  But, curing is not a self-catalyzing process that runs quickly to completion.  If it were, then the first stray UV that came through an open bottle top would turn the contents solid.  If exothermic (which it seems like it must be), the bottle would get hot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;UV curing may fail&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;UV curing the inside of a large, opaque object probably doesn't happen.  Before I get all excited, though, I would need to place some bounds on &quot;large&quot; and &quot;opaque&quot;.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Absorption of UV light depends on the pigment or dye used in the resin.  This absorption is never absolute.  It is not 100% gone after the first, thinnest penetration.  The light is attenuated by an amount per distance it penetrates.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Transmission is the complement of absorption, and the numbers are easier to work with, so lets work with transmission factors of T rather than absorbtion factors of A.  &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$T=1-A$&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If a factor of T is passed for millimeter, then one centimeter into the object the light intensity is &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$T^{10}$&lt;/span&gt; of what it is on the surface, which is a small, but non-zero, number.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keep in mind that opaqueness depends on wavelength.  For example, Window glass is transparent (very little absorption) to visible light, but highly attenuating to UV light.  Were I to design a black resin, I would look for a black pigment that was relatively transmissive to UV.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Will it cure?&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A low UV dose delivered to a 0.2mm layer of resin will partially cure the resin.  1 mm into an object, the dose is lower, but it still exists.  1 meter into the object, the absorption is probably too high pass a useful level of UV.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the transmission factor is 0.8 for a 0.2 mm layer, it is &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$0.8^5$&lt;/span&gt; for a 1 mm layer (0.33).  It would take only three times as much UV exposure to cure a 1 mm thickness as a 0.2 mm thickness.  If the object were 1 meter thick, the transmission to the inner bit would be &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$0.8^{5000}$&lt;/span&gt;, which is a very tiny number, roughly &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$2.82×10^{-485}$&lt;/span&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, consider if the object is or must be truly be solid.  UV curable resin is relatively expensive.  Many UV printable objects include drainage paths for uncured resin to flow out of the object during printing.  Perhaps your object could similarly be hollowed out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2082" LastActivityDate="2020-05-14T14:29:26.630" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13665" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13385" CreationDate="2020-05-14T21:54:43.570" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It turns out that the brand of PETG that I was using was not good for stacking prints. I tried another brand of PETG and it worked perfectly. Thank you for all of the suggestions of what could be the problem. If you are stacking face shields (or any other print), do not use Overture PETG.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20745" LastActivityDate="2020-05-14T21:54:43.570" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13667" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-05-15T06:14:30.823" Score="1" ViewCount="467" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hoping to get some help with something I'm trying to accomplish. Unfortunately, due to my being a noob with 3D modeling in general, I'm coming here for hopefully more direct help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Env. Details: OS: Windows 10&#xA;Word size of OS: 64-bit&#xA;Word size of FreeCAD: 64-bit&#xA;Version: 0.17.13541 (Git)&#xA;Build type: Release&#xA;Branch: releases/FreeCAD-0-17&#xA;Hash: 9948ee4f1570df9216862a79705afb367b2c6ffb&#xA;Python version: 2.7.14&#xA;Qt version: 4.8.7&#xA;Coin version: 4.0.0a&#xA;OCC version: 7.2.0&#xA;Locale: English/UnitedStates (en_US)&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Essentially, I have a need to design some housing for a small electornics board. Due to the nature of 3D printing being less than ideal for bending/snapping locks, I've decided to use small screws to hold multiple layers of housing together.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CBSLA.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CBSLA.png&quot; alt=&quot;Placements to bore threaded holes&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;SketchUp Free proved to be a super intuitive, easy to understand 3D modeling software, tho is limited in functionality due to paid tiers.&#xA;Unfortunately, FreeCAD felt like a confusing cross between early 2000s Microsoft Paint and Eclipse (Java). However as the open source alternative, I understand it's incredibly powerful and can/should be able to do what most 3D modeling software is capable of, if you know how to use it properly - and that's where my lack of understanding shines through. Research into my use case revealed a plugin (Fasteners Workbench) which seemed purpose built for dealing with screws/threads, and I greatly prefer this approach due to being able to select standardized sizes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On to the problem:&#xA;I decided to sketch out the main design for the housing in Sketchup, and am happy with it, though I am missing the holes in the four corners. To add this, I decided to export the file from Sketchup as STL and import it to FreeCAD. Once in FreeCAD, I switched to the fasteners workbench and created a screwtap of arbitrary length. Now, from most tutorials I've watched, removing one piece from another is a boolean operation, often a cut or an intersection. However, when I highlight both the part object and the screwtap and select the CUT boolean operation, what I expect to happen (the screwtap was &quot;cut&quot; or carved out of the part object) did not.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fWykE.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fWykE.png&quot; alt=&quot;Intersecting components selected, deciding on boolean operation&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BqkC7.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BqkC7.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm wondering if:&#xA;- My understanding of the boolean operation is wrong. There is a different function that is used for &quot;boring&quot; threaded holes?&#xA;- My process is wrong. Does exporting an STL from sketchup free not work for certain operations when importing to FreeCAD?&#xA;- My models are off. I have an understanding that &quot;grouping&quot; parts of models is big when putting a model together from parts, so as to simplify life. I'm wondering if it's also required in these cases? Attempting to do the boolean operation in sketchup failed but did require having grouped components. I'm not sure this is the case in FreeCAD, or if I'm already doing this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would appreciate any help with this. Attaching the FreeCAD file &lt;a href=&quot;https://drive.google.com/file/d/17_NEe8SXjl54cQzKhfzkMZsMBHSc9e5X/view?usp=sharing&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21212" LastActivityDate="2020-06-17T21:12:31.237" Title="Sketchup Free STL import in FreeCAD not working with Fasteners Workbench" Tags="|stl|freecad|sketchup|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13668" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13615" CreationDate="2020-05-15T11:13:45.743" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It turned out that the stepper driver on my duet 2 wifi board is defective which resulted in the extruder motor being poorly controlled which in turn caused the clogs, using a different stepper driver fixed the issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am a bit bummed out that one of my drivers turned out to be defective since the board has barely been used but at least I got my printer to work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14509" LastEditorUserId="14509" LastEditDate="2020-05-15T22:05:47.160" LastActivityDate="2020-05-15T22:05:47.160" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13669" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13656" CreationDate="2020-05-15T14:10:30.130" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I assume you just assembled it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check the grub-screws in your pulleys at the top (remove blue covers). They are often too loose or even lost, causing a slipping belt. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;After that, check your belt-tension, not too loose not too tight and the same for the three towers.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Also check that the wheels are not tightened too much.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is actually best to break down the three towers and reassemble them carefully.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21214" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-05-15T15:22:39.713" LastActivityDate="2020-05-15T15:22:39.713" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13671" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13667" CreationDate="2020-05-15T19:40:01.317" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Stls may not properly import as solids.  This is likely what is happening in your case.  Stl format is ultimately just a bunch of triangles without a proper definition of a solid.  The boolean Difference found faces to attach to the circle so it used them.  The trouble is, there were even more faces at the same location (not uncommon).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could manually delete and repatch the triangles in Mesh Design or if the shape is simple enough (I think your box fits the bill), redraw it.  I don't know how far sketchup has come with file formats, but a different format may convey your solid better between software.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, in your shoes, I'd be making cylindrical and hexagonal cutouts and gluing a nut into my part.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21141" LastActivityDate="2020-05-15T19:40:01.317" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13672" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13637" CreationDate="2020-05-15T19:52:03.250" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A distance of 15&amp;nbsp;mm is about the height of the probe or Z-offset. That can be a clue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Compare the G-code from the testprint with the G-code you sliced. It can give you other clues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21219" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-05-16T06:32:17.903" LastActivityDate="2020-05-16T06:32:17.903" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13673" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13656" CreationDate="2020-05-15T20:49:41.240" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It might be a good idea to verify that there is a minimum amount of backlash in your system.  With the hotend cold, home the printer, and then using your fingers try to move the effector in all six directions (up, left, right, forward, back) and note if there is any play.  There should be as close to zero as possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If there is any play, then figure out where it is coming from.  Check that the pulleys are firmly screwed to the motor shafts.  Check that the carriages cannot wobble, and adjust the eccentric nuts if necessary.  Check that the belts are reasonably tight and all have the same tension.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Usually the universal joints in the arms are OK on a new printer, but they tend to wear and become loose after a while.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: I build and sell replacement arms for the Anycubic Predator, which use zero-backlash, magnetic ball joints.  I had this problem on my first printer, and magnetic ball joints solved it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21223" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-05-18T04:31:06.313" LastActivityDate="2020-05-18T04:31:06.313" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13675" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13667" CreationDate="2020-05-16T06:51:25.743" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a number of steps to importing an STL file into FreeCAD and being able to use it.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://pinter.org/archives/4255&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;This page&lt;/a&gt; discusses this in detail, but to summarize:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Import the STL&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In the Part workbench, use &lt;strong&gt;Create shape from mesh&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use the Advanced utility and select &lt;strong&gt;Solid from shell&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now I will tell you from personal experience, you still may not be able to what you want to do. FreeCAD really isn't designed to work on STL files and really isn't the right choice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20164" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:29:41.667" LastActivityDate="2020-05-16T06:51:25.743" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13676" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-05-16T06:53:56.443" Score="1" ViewCount="1582" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm new to 3D printing and I noticed some problems with my print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've printed it 3 times and releveled the bed. Now, I found that the right lower corner always has holes,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZK0WA.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Printed model on bed shows incomplete coverage during initial layers&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZK0WA.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Printed model on bed shows incomplete coverage during initial layers&quot; title=&quot;Printed model on bed shows incomplete coverage during initial layers&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and some stringing problems&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FpjYF.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Printed model on bed shows stringing&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FpjYF.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Printed model on bed shows stringing&quot; title=&quot;Printed model on bed shows stringing&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lastly, the place where there should be a full line suddenly becomes string-like, and it always happens at the same place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1Fr55.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Printed model has individual lines are thin and string-like&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1Fr55.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Printed model has individual lines are thin and string-like&quot; title=&quot;Printed model has individual lines are thin and string-like&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HZz3J.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Another printed model has individual lines are thin and string-like&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HZz3J.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Another printed model has individual lines are thin and string-like&quot; title=&quot;Another printed model has individual lines are thin and string-like&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's like my extruder pulls out the filament or fails to create filament in the area that should be filled with filament. Is it normal or did I set my printer wrong? I'm afraid it might cause holes in my new print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's also some stringing problem that causes the layer to be uneven.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Slicer: Cura 4.6&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Settings:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jQYf9.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Cura Speed settings&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jQYf9.png&quot; alt=&quot;Cura Speed settings&quot; title=&quot;Cura Speed settings&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/84ZNv.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Cura Travel settings&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/84ZNv.png&quot; alt=&quot;Cura Travel settings&quot; title=&quot;Cura Travel settings&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cbboi.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Cura Material settings&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cbboi.png&quot; alt=&quot;Cura Material settings&quot; title=&quot;Cura Material settings&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cdrDd.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Cura Cooling settings&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cdrDd.png&quot; alt=&quot;Cura Cooling settings&quot; title=&quot;Cura Cooling settings&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My printer is Anycubic 4Max Pro&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21228" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-11-02T21:05:37.490" LastActivityDate="2022-05-13T01:42:53.643" Title="First layer rippling and no filament in certain areas" Tags="|extruder|bed-leveling|adhesion|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13678" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13683" CreationDate="2020-05-16T19:45:36.947" Score="-1" ViewCount="82" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think that heated bed have some disadvantages - they arent always reliable, they consume additional electrical power. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can imagine one way how HB can be replaced - in some flat surface - glass or iron sheet we can drill some specific holes (probable a bit conic). Then, before detail printing start, printer could fill it with material and continue print detail connecting to these fixations. That can fixate detail in X,Y and probably even Z axis. After printing we can just take detail or cut fixations (if there were Z fixations)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I almost sure someone in industry already thought about this bud didnt release and I dont understand why. Defineteley there is pitfails,  but I dont see them. Why this method cant be used to replace heated beds?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20959" LastActivityDate="2020-05-17T09:24:25.697" Title="Use fixation holes instead heated bed" Tags="|heated-bed|adhesion|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13679" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-05-16T22:11:50.677" Score="1" ViewCount="114" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm have an issue where Cura 4.6.1 is effecting the width of certain characters if the part is orented to print them on the the bottom. The initial layer seems to be the only layer that is effected. It is also only effects certain characters, in this case characters 4,6,8 and 9. Picture 1 shows the part oriented to print text on the bottom. Picture 2 shows the same part oriented where the text is on the top, which results in the text looking correct.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/42jNv.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/42jNv.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Picture 1&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HYtNX.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HYtNX.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Picture 2&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have looked for the setting that causes this but, so far, have been unable to locate it. Any help would be greatly appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21232" LastActivityDate="2021-06-11T01:03:05.283" Title="Issues With Cura 4.6.1 Effecting Text Width On The Initial Layer" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|slicing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13680" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13679" CreationDate="2020-05-16T23:52:54.567" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Brim setting was causing the issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21232" LastActivityDate="2020-05-16T23:52:54.567" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13683" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13678" CreationDate="2020-05-17T09:24:25.697" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've used a 3D printer that had a perforated (and heated) bed for adhesion. It was some incarnation of the Up printer -- and this was several years ago (2014 or 2015) when 3D printing was very hyped but hadn't reached its present level of technological maturity. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(this was also before things like BuildTak and PEI sheet.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bed was made of a perforated fiberglass material similar to PCB boards (without soldermask or copper), black in color, and it was &lt;em&gt;terrible&lt;/em&gt;. Prints were printed with a raft, which remained stuck to the bed holes and resisted all efforts to remove them short of a chisel or something similar, and before long all the bed plates (there were several) were marked and gouged from people trying to scrape plastic off of them. (they also warped). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do not think that this is something we want to imitate, especially as it seems like Buildtak-like plastic coatings or glass work so well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As to the use of holes &lt;em&gt;alone&lt;/em&gt; to fix parts: They are going to be under stress, possibly too much shear stress for them to hold, you won't get the other benefits of heating, and you'll have trouble as you build upwards. For an extreme example, look at the difficulties of printing the insanely high temperature plastic PEEK, which basically requires not merely a heated bed but a heated chamber. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21237" LastActivityDate="2020-05-17T09:24:25.697" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13684" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13648" CreationDate="2020-05-17T09:30:32.793" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If a general-purpose compression tool using a good compression algorithm, such as 7zip or gzip (for linux and command line enthusiasts) is not providing good compression it is not likely that your files &lt;em&gt;can&lt;/em&gt; be compressed very much. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This applies to a wide variety of binary files beyond just 3D print files. There is always  a fundamental limit on compression (since it works by finding patterns and removing redundancy in files), and well-designed binary file formats generally can't be compressed very far. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may however have some luck with changing the settings on your CAD tool to output less detailed files (though you this is obviously a tradeoff.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21237" LastActivityDate="2020-05-17T09:30:32.793" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13685" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13648" CreationDate="2020-05-17T10:44:42.010" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;3D files differ greatly in size and what they contain:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;STL&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;STL Stereolithography files were invented by 3D Systems to store surfaces. Originally it used ASCII text to store information by naming triplets of vertex positions for each triangle (facet). Since that got too large, newer STL are Binary, which is quite smaller.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many programs can export them, their size is dependant on the number of surfaces. You can reduce the size of an STL by lowering the number of surfaces at the cost of detail.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;OBJ&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;OBJ was invented by Wavefront as a means of storing 3D information. It stores the data as plain text by storing vertices, to which they connect and what texture is on surfaces spun up by the vertices.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In comparison to STL, they can be bigger if they include surface information. Programs that can't do STL usually support OBJ. Slicers take either. You can reduce the size of the file by reducing complexity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;STEP&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;STEP files don't save 3D items per se, they store instructions for CAD programs to generate a 3D item. This makes them extremely information-dense and can create highly complex items with a somewhat minimum of file size. They also allow us to easily modify the file.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, STEP files can't be sliced directly and need to be opened by a CAD program.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Comparison&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iGcpT.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Simple hollow cube from two C-clamps&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iGcpT.png&quot; alt=&quot;&amp;quot;simple&amp;quot; hollow cube from 2 C-clamps&quot; title=&quot;Simple hollow cube from two C-clamps&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a simple object generated by a mere extrusion, rounding corners, extruding again and a sweep, then copying the item and moving it into position.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EDOM6.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Tools sequence&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EDOM6.png&quot; alt=&quot;Tools sequence&quot; title=&quot;Tools sequence&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But how does that compare as STL and OBJ? Well, the results of this item are rather small in either case, but you get a rough gist of their general comparability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The STL is 74.3 kB, STEP is 90 kB, OBJ is 95.4 kB.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tJLsx.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;STL&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tJLsx.png&quot; alt=&quot;STL&quot; title=&quot;STL&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LvJyp.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;STEP&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LvJyp.png&quot; alt=&quot;STEP&quot; title=&quot;STEP&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DncAn.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;OBJ&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DncAn.png&quot; alt=&quot;OBJ&quot; title=&quot;OBJ&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, in a maximum compressed &lt;code&gt;.zip&lt;/code&gt; archive, things change a lot:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;STEP shrinks by 86 % to 13 kB&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;OBJ by 84 % to 16 kB&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;STL by a mere 73 % to 21 kB.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BWSUk.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Compressed&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BWSUk.png&quot; alt=&quot;Compressed&quot; title=&quot;Compressed&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Conclusion&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;STEP is the best to give out in a zip archive if you want others to edit it. OBJ is a tad smaller in a zip archive than STL, but also can contain additional data.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2021-09-25T04:22:01.857" LastActivityDate="2021-09-25T04:22:01.857" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13686" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13687" CreationDate="2020-05-17T11:26:30.227" Score="0" ViewCount="186" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to print the painter's tripod from &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=36uU1Z7OiJg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this tutorial&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sa8EE.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sa8EE.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can't get it to finish the print. It always fails towards the top when it's closing the circles. I've tried brims and even glue for adhesion, and different settings for inlays, perimeters, etc... my bed levelling is correct and my first layer is perfect. The prints come out beautiful, but they always fail there. I have a theory but since I don't have a camera set up I can't confirm, but I feel like the nozzle gets stuck against the previous layer, as if when it's coming from the other side of the &quot;bridge&quot; completing the upper layers of the circle, it get's to the other side of the gap and it finds that the filament has hardened just a bit higher than when it's going to print, and therefore knocks the piece to the side (despite using glue!!), and from that point on, obviously, total mess and I have to cancel. Just a theory though. Any ideas of what else could this be or what to do about it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Printer is a Prusa i3 Mark3S&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21239" LastActivityDate="2020-05-17T19:00:17.917" Title="Can't print the top part of a circle" Tags="|prusa-i3|print-failure|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13687" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13686" CreationDate="2020-05-17T12:11:51.593" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You are trying to print an unsupported edge up there - the top edge has nothing to rest on and thus sags down. As a result, the print failed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To remedy this, activate printing with support. With a support angle of 80° or tree support, you could minimize the needed material.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2020-05-17T19:00:17.917" LastActivityDate="2020-05-17T19:00:17.917" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13688" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-05-17T14:03:52.053" Score="0" ViewCount="717" Body="&lt;p&gt;A few months ago I got an Ender 5 printer. After a few successful prints with only PLA, I started getting a lot of issues. The last time I came back after an hour and there was just a bird's nest around the nozzle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I cleaned up all the PLA I could visibly see around the nozzle and the inside as much as I can tell. I decided to replace the nozzle, but when I tried to remove it, it was stuck.  All the wrenches I have couldn't hold it, and now it's stripped pretty smooth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What options are left? Was there PLA stuck inside the hot bed that's holding the nozzle?  I heated it to printing levels to soften it but no luck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21243" LastActivityDate="2020-05-17T14:03:52.053" Title="How to remove a stripped nozzle" Tags="|nozzle|creality-ender-5|repair|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13690" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5251" CreationDate="2020-05-18T00:06:08.190" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had a similar problem with PLA after upgrading to all metal hotend. My printer was in a cabinet and after some time in print had the same problem (heat creep). In the end, it was resolved by turning bed off after first 3 layers and turning on a fan to keep the cabinet cool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21248" LastActivityDate="2020-05-18T00:06:08.190" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13691" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13733" CreationDate="2020-05-18T00:57:59.173" Score="2" ViewCount="4314" Body="&lt;p&gt;Working on upgrading my Ender 3 to a dual extruder setup using the &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B075CK4JRN&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Winsinn dual hot end&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B076S2SDQ9&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;MKS Base V1.6&lt;/a&gt; motherboard using Marlin FW 2.0.5 and am unable to get the PID autotune to work. When I start the autotune, the temperature spikes pretty quickly and quickly fails, either heating to 60&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C or 200&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C (&lt;code&gt;M303 C5 E0 S60&lt;/code&gt;) for either hot end (E0 or E1). After looking through other online messages, I used &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B078SQ4BPR&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;24&amp;nbsp;V heater cartridges&lt;/a&gt; rather than the 12&amp;nbsp;V ones that came with the hot end. Aditionally, I have the thermisistor settings to use config 6 (rather than 1) after reading through user recommendations on the hot end. After failing to get the hotend to heat properly, I have the following questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Should I try reducing the current to the cartridge? Currently set to default of 255?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Are there any other PID changes I should make to allow the autotune to figure out the right parameters to use?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Are there any other tests recommended to figure out why the hot end heats without being stopped by Marlin?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a chart showing the temperatures of the hotends and bed while running autotune on T0 and T1. Weird gap in second attempt was verifying that the right sensor was plugged into the right mainboard pin (no power going to hot end at this time). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Kbe1x.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Kbe1x.png&quot; alt=&quot;PID autotune temperature&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thermistor settings:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#define TEMP_SENSOR_0 6&#xA;#define TEMP_SENSOR_1 6&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21249" LastEditorUserId="21249" LastEditDate="2020-05-22T17:51:13.493" LastActivityDate="2022-04-19T16:27:09.617" Title="PID autotune fails with a temp too high" Tags="|marlin|creality-ender-3|hotend|pid|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13692" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-05-18T10:19:50.320" Score="2" ViewCount="1692" Body="&lt;p&gt;Using the PrusaSlicer I discovered that we are able to &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zSdqP.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;insert a pause&lt;/a&gt; in mid print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wanted to use such feature to insert a lens in my print so I don't have to glue 2 parts to make my magnifying glass.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But unfortunately the print didn't stop at the specified layer.&#xA;Trying to manually pause the printer from the LCD didn't worked either.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only way to stop my print is to print from the SD card instead of using OctoPrint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a pre-requisite to be able to trigger a pause from the G-code using OctoPrint?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Apparently PrusaSlicer insert an &lt;code&gt;M601&lt;/code&gt; command, maybe this had to be somewhat changed to another G-code command?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My 3D printer is an Ender 3 with an alternative 32-bit board : &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/bigtreetech/BIGTREETECH-SKR-mini-E3/blob/master/firmware/V1.2/Marlin-2.0.x-SKR-Mini-E3-V1.2/Marlin/Configuration_adv.h&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;BIGTREETECH-SKR-mini-E3 V1.2&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm using the stock firmware : &lt;code&gt;firmware-bltouch-for-z-homing.bin&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried to look into the &lt;code&gt;Configuration.h&lt;/code&gt; to see if there was a pause feature to enable but I didn't see it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've tried to pause, it didn't even trigger automatically when printing from the SD card... Maybe I need to tell the slicer to issue another G-code that is not &lt;code&gt;M601&lt;/code&gt;...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21255" LastEditorUserId="4922" LastEditDate="2021-04-21T13:24:21.057" LastActivityDate="2021-09-19T16:06:15.650" Title="OctoPrint won't stop my print with a pause" Tags="|g-code|octoprint|bigtreetech|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13694" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13667" CreationDate="2020-05-18T20:20:26.997" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been down that road with FreeCAD and STL files and never ever succeeded. I actually use Prusa Slic3r whenever I need to edit STL files such as resize, cut or split and object.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, FreeCAD is extremely powerful when you learn how to use it. It took me several months to get a good workflow with part design and the ability to write scripts/tools with Python opens up a lot of possibilities to automate various tasks, especially when interacting with 3D printing software.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would recommend starting with some tutorials in using part design and the sketcher. Your design is very easy to redo in FreeCAD and if you are making many different enclosures, all dimensions can be put in a spread sheet inside the FreeCAD project and referenced wherever a numerical constraint/constant is used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That makes it very easy to parameterize a design so it can be reused in various projects. I have for example a parameterized thread that I use to print parts that can be screwed together with printed threads or using standard M-thread screws directly in holes with printed threads.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21262" LastActivityDate="2020-05-18T20:20:26.997" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13695" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13696" CreationDate="2020-05-18T23:31:20.633" Score="1" ViewCount="125" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Creality Ender 3 that needs a build surface (both the build-tak sticker and the removable stiff backer). My dad has been pestering me to try using paper as a disposable surface. I am hesitant to do so for concerns regarding fires and degrading the bottom of the print. Has anyone here tried this and what were the results?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20433" LastEditorUserId="8353" LastEditDate="2020-05-22T22:10:28.827" LastActivityDate="2020-05-22T22:10:28.827" Title="Paper as build surface - how will that work?" Tags="|material|safety|build-surface|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13696" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13695" CreationDate="2020-05-18T23:51:17.967" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Blue masking tape is a common bed surface, especially for unheated beds. It is effectively an adhesive applied to a paper, although I suspect the paper is treated in some manner to serve as a barrier to paint, as the blue tape is sold as paint masking tape.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A sheet of ordinary paper isn't likely to catch fire, as the bed temperature will not reach combustion temperature for paper (more than 230&amp;nbsp;°C), but you still have to have the means of providing adhesion of the paper to the bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A thick enough weight of paper may provide sufficient rigidity to provide for a stable print surface, if the perimeter is well secured and uniformly (smoothly) attached.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll have to experiment with various types of paper surfaces as well, as some may be treated (calendared) during manufacturing, which could affect the results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Blue tape is your best bet if you want disposable. Also if you use care in removal, it is not a single use bed covering.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-05-19T06:23:09.640" LastActivityDate="2020-05-19T06:23:09.640" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13697" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13614" CreationDate="2020-05-19T01:09:01.687" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have the same problem. You need to check your G-code to detect where's the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Try comparing the G-code file with different values of the Z offset.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my case it looks like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No offset&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;;LAYER_COUNT:107&#xA;;LAYER:0&#xA;M106 S255&#xA;G1 F300 Z0.84&#xA;G0 F6000 X124.645 Y78.208 Z0.84&#xA;;TYPE:SKIRT&#xA;G1 F300 Z0.44&#xA;G1 F1500 E0&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With offset (comments made by Cura)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;;LAYER_COUNT:107&#xA;;LAYER:0&#xA;M106 S255&#xA;G1 F300 Z2.06 ;adjusted by z offset&#xA;G92 Z0.84 ;consider this the original z before offset&#xA;G0 F6000 X119.093 Y42.498 Z0.84&#xA;;TYPE:SKIRT&#xA;G1 F300 Z0.44&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope this helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20739" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-06-24T05:59:35.947" LastActivityDate="2020-06-24T05:59:35.947" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13698" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-05-19T07:11:15.517" Score="1" ViewCount="11412" Body="&lt;p&gt;Currently, I'm using a Creality printer to print PLA (that's what I have on hand) but I'm definitely interested in working with other materials that require higher temperatures (both much higher, and just enough higher that the stock hotend is very marginal) in the future. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I understand that all-metal hotends are less forgiving and that they particularly are not the best for printing PLA, and shouldn't be assumed to be an upgrade when only printing PLA. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I don't understand is, &lt;em&gt;how bad are they?&lt;/em&gt; Are they so bad that I should plan on changing back to a PTFE hotend whenever I print PLA or ABS? Or are they suitable for use on a printer that is sometimes used for printing PLA and ABS and sometimes printing high-temp filaments?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21237" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2020-05-19T15:15:05.070" LastActivityDate="2020-05-20T15:51:46.313" Title="All-metal hotends are less forgiving / not as good for PLA -- but how bad?" Tags="|hotend|all-metal-hotend|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13699" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-05-19T08:03:00.753" Score="1" ViewCount="803" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know that the E3D V6 hotend exists in both the all-metal V6 version, and the PTFE-lined Lite6 version with the same mount and form factor.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What other hotend designs are available like this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21237" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2020-05-19T15:15:46.253" LastActivityDate="2022-07-15T08:49:06.643" Title="What hotend designs exist as paired all-metal and PTFE-lined versions?" Tags="|hotend|printer-building|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13701" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13699" CreationDate="2020-05-19T11:05:50.170" Score="3" Body="&lt;h1&gt;Hotend Designes in General&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Lined&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Makerbot Mk8 &amp;amp; e3D Lite6&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Makerbot Mk8 seen on many Chinese machines and the E3D Lite6 are both lined hotends, which means the PTFE liner goes down into the heartbreak and butts against the nozzle. This style is very easy to print PLA with, but can't print hotter than about 240 °C.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Makerbot MK10&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A variant of the lined hotend is the Makerbot MK10, where the PTFE goes a bit into the nozzle. These nozzles have a larger diameter, the melt zone is very short.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;All Metal&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are mainly two designs of consumer all-metal hotend out there at the moment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;E3D v6&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Stereotypical by now, the All Metal hotend typically means E3D v6. The liner ends at the end of the heartbreak, the heartbreak of the original is necked down to reduce heat creep. The design is flawed in that heat creep can't be mitigated completely. While this design can print much higher temperatures than lined hotends, the heat creep can create trouble with PLA.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;E3D Hemera&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The dreamchild of the v6 is the Hemera (formerly Hermes), which fights the problem of heat creep by drastically altering the coolend design: The heartbreak is even slimmer than the v6 and has very little area outside of the cooling block. This cooling block is fitted with a somewhat stronger fan. In theory this leads to much better cooling in the upper filament path and getting heat creep under control. However, due to the manufacturing stop induced by COVID-19, there are not too many Hemera out in the wild. Some early to mid development information could be gained from &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q2ZAFQhTBdE&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Joel&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pQ_FTlTxPm8&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Thomas Sanladerer&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Among the still few reviews I have found is &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XOqOd10e7RE&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Thomas Sanladerer&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Slice Engineering &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.sliceengineering.com/products/the-mosquito-hotend%E2%84%A2&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Mosquito Hotend&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Slice engineering went a different way to fight heatcreep in an unined all metal hotend: The heatsink is mode away from the filament path and serves as its own structure. As a downsize, each and every part is pretty much precision machined, making it comparably expensive: without heater, thermosensor, and extruder the bare item clocks in 145$. Claimed benefits are, that the thinner filament path (as it doesn't need to be structural) from a low heat-conducting material reduces heat creep and because we have an unlined filament path it can print at 450 °C, making it one o the highest-rated hotends.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Slice Engineering Copperhead&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Currently, the same company is working on the Copperhead, in which they introduce a dual metal construction on necked heatbreak. The name Bi-Metal for this however would be a misnomer: &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bimetal&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Bimetal&lt;/a&gt; is a standing technical term for a strip of metals that, when heated, starts to tilt into one direction because of dissimilar heat expansion. The correct term, which they properly use on their website is &lt;strong&gt;Bimetallic&lt;/strong&gt;, not Bimetal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because of the dissimilar thermal behavior, such a setup needs to be designed and machined very carefully, but could, help to dissipate the heat from the filament path and massively reduce heatcreep. The Copperhead as shown currently is offered for preorder with two mounting options, one of them the e3D style groove., which might allow drop-in replacement of a full hotend.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The heartbreak however alone could suffice to get some of the effects, and as the website shows, it would be available as a drop-in replacement part. &lt;strong&gt;However, pricing and effectivity remain still to be seen.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Paired?!&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the time of this writing in May 2020, the combination of e3D v6 and Lite6 using the same outer form factor is pretty much unique to them and their clones. The Trianglelab Dragon hotend (a review of it &lt;a href=&quot;https://forum.prusaprinters.org/forum/english-forum-general-discussion-announcements-and-releases/review-dragon-hotend/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;) uses the e3D v6 Style connector on a Slice Enginering &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.sliceengineering.com/products/the-mosquito-hotend%E2%84%A2&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Mosquito Hotend&lt;/a&gt; design, making it pretty much paired to the two.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;However&lt;/em&gt; the main functioning parts of the distinction is the heartbreak being either part of the cooling body and lined or a separate piece. The e3D v6 does use the same M6 threading that is also used in a Makerbot Mk8 and many Chinese clones on many machines [Some are M7, so beware!], and thus one can easily make a Frankenstein Hotend by combining the pre-mounted cooling body with a proper e3D v6 heartbreak and turn the lined into an All Metal hotend.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="13171" LastEditDate="2022-07-15T08:49:06.643" LastActivityDate="2022-07-15T08:49:06.643" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13702" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13703" CreationDate="2020-05-19T11:14:17.087" Score="5" ViewCount="790" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was printing a lid for a box in my Ender 3 pro printer. But I don't know why it stopped printing and moved aside when it does in finished printings. This happened at midnight and I didn't see it until I woke up. In the hope for a resume I didn't remove the finished part from the printer bed. So now how can I resume this printing from where it left. The total width of the lid was 3 mm and it printed 2.4 mm now only 0.6 mm part left to print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SrcE3.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SrcE3.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;photo 1 of unfinished print&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lmiOT.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lmiOT.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;photo 2 of unfinished print&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XYcLZ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XYcLZ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;photo 3 of unfinished print&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21270" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2023-11-09T08:04:36.053" LastActivityDate="2023-11-09T08:04:36.053" Title="How to resume an unfinished project?" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|creality-ender-3|troubleshooting|g-code|slicing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13703" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13702" CreationDate="2020-05-19T12:47:54.193" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Provided that the print hasn't come loose from the bed and you know the layer height or layer number (you could count the amount of layers or measure the height of the print using a caliper), you can edit the original G-code file to print the remainder of the print. The following hints should be taken into account:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Don't use &lt;code&gt;G28&lt;/code&gt; or &lt;code&gt;G29&lt;/code&gt; instead use &lt;code&gt;G28 X Y&lt;/code&gt; (please note that using &lt;code&gt;G28&lt;/code&gt; or &lt;code&gt;G28 Z&lt;/code&gt; to home Z as well, may not work if the print is blocking the homing of Z, e.g. when homing in the center of the build plate)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Manually position the printhead at the correct Z height (place the cold nozzle on top of your failed print when the steppers are not powered, you could leave a paper thickness of a gap in between the nozzle and the print) and instruct the printer to use that height for reference: e.g. when the print stopped at layer 12 with a 0.2 mm layer height (2.4 mm height or use the measured height with a caliper) define &lt;code&gt;G92 Z2.4&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Make sure the hotend is primed before resuming printing&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cut all the G-code present in the file prior to the layer you want to start printing (e.g. search for &lt;code&gt;G1 Z2.2&lt;/code&gt;), but do add bed and hotend heating, e.g. respectively &lt;code&gt;M190 S60&lt;/code&gt; and &lt;code&gt;M109 S200&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What you can also do is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Reprint the whole print&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Re-slice the print where you have sunk the print 2.4 mm into the bed in the slicer just printing the top face which you glue on later (this works only if the print is exactly at the same position as the initial slice, preferable the project was saved in the slicer or the default position after inserting the print object is used, note that this is difficult to reproduce when multiple objects were place on the bed, it would be better to edit the existing G-code instead!).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Note that you will always see a difference in appearance compared to an object printed in one session, you will see an interface line between the first and the second part.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2023-11-08T11:42:36.317" LastActivityDate="2023-11-08T11:42:36.317" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13704" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-05-19T16:38:04.020" Score="1" ViewCount="227" Body="&lt;p&gt;After having replaced the Creality factory firmware by a recompiled one to manage a BLTouch sensor I have the following behavior on my CR-X (mainboard Creality V2.2, firmware Marlin 1.1.6 + additions by Creality for touch screen and maybe merged bugfixes):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the homing and auto-leveling job is done normally (on 9 points for auto-level)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the bed and nozzle are warming &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the print starts normally with an adherence skirt (Slicer Cura 4.6.1 / Linux / offline via SD)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;on one part (bottom of the picture), the first layer is done normally then on the second layer during filling the advance becomes incredibly slow, maybe 5 seconds/mm, I can count each motor step&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;on another part (top of the picture), the filling of the first layer does not even finish&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0INXP.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0INXP.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;prints that get slow&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have placed the first part turned by 90° horizontally, and the problem occurs at the same position relative to the part.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have also noticed that once the advance is slow, even if I cancel the print, manual advance keeps slow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have seen that slow printing of circles is a known problem, but the circles are printing at correct speed, the slow down occurs in 45° fillings. An the Knob part is full of curves.&#xA;BTW the support for bezier curves is not enabled in advanced config settings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could it be a bug in the firmware? The source code published by Creality seems to be a customized 1.1.6 Marlin dating from 2017 with some more recent files (possibly applied fixes) that is supposed to match the built-in one when I got the printer but I never had the problem with stock firmware. Could it be worth to apply the Creality settings to the last 1.1.9?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21259" LastEditorUserId="21259" LastEditDate="2020-05-20T09:32:30.253" LastActivityDate="2020-05-20T09:32:30.253" Title="Printer starts normally then becomes insanely slow" Tags="|marlin|creality-cr-10|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13705" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13719" CreationDate="2020-05-19T17:25:33.937" Score="2" ViewCount="2794" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/3586/adding-custom-m-codes-to-marlin&quot;&gt;Adding custom M Codes to Marlin&lt;/a&gt; doesn't work for Marlin 2.0&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How would one go about adding custom G codes or M Codes to Marlin 2.0? The Marlin_main.cpp file does not exist. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In general for Marlin 2.0, things are organized better, but split into more files. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10369" LastEditorUserId="10369" LastEditDate="2020-05-19T20:34:07.803" LastActivityDate="2020-11-26T23:23:23.953" Title="Adding custom M or G codes to Marlin 2.0" Tags="|marlin|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13706" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13705" CreationDate="2020-05-19T18:42:46.460" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The code in 2.0.x is similar to the old branch 1.1.x, G-code is parsed in &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/blob/2.0.x/Marlin/src/gcode/gcode.cpp&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;code&gt;gcode.cpp&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/a&gt;, specifically in &lt;code&gt;process_parsed_command&lt;/code&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;void GcodeSuite::process_parsed_command(const bool no_ok/*=false*/)&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the case statement the codes read from the G-code files are parsed (interpreted) and the appropriate method is called (e.g. &lt;code&gt;G28()&lt;/code&gt; calls &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/blob/2.0.x/Marlin/src/gcode/calibrate/G28.cpp&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;code&gt;void GcodeSuite::G28()&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to create your own codes, it could be an idea to start there. Also think of using a different letter and/or codes in the 10,000 range so that it will not collide with new implemented G-codes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2020-05-19T18:42:46.460" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13708" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13698" CreationDate="2020-05-19T23:33:58.820" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Are they so bad I should plan on changing back to a PTFE hot end?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No, all metal hot end are not that bad, and may even be beneficial when printing at higher temperatures. You mentioned that you want to print ABS and other such materials. At temperatures this high, my understanding is that the PTFE tube in the hot end may melt, or at least become so damaged that the hot end is blocked, leading to needing to replace the tube. My first 3D printer used a PTFE ho tend, which due to the printing temperatures I was using, and lack of knowledge of the many types of hot end, the tube got damaged after about 2/5 hours, leading to me needing to replace the tube. I eventually sent the printer back, got my money back and got a printer with an all metal hot end. That has never failed me in hundreds of hours of printing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Are not the best for printing PLA&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have never had a problem printing PLA with an all metal hot end, however if you are printing just PLA, a PTFE hot end would be just fine, although not as versatile if you wanted to try different materials in the future.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;In Summary:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Provided you print fast enough (I regularly print at 60 mm/s) to ensure that no filament cools down in the hot end you should be fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21277" LastEditorUserId="21277" LastEditDate="2020-05-20T15:51:46.313" LastActivityDate="2020-05-20T15:51:46.313" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13710" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-05-20T03:04:33.517" Score="0" ViewCount="140" Body="&lt;p&gt;My printer is the Longer LK4 Pro, and I just got it 2 days ago. When I started to print some objects, on a certain layer, the printer would stop and move to the far right corner of my bed. What can I do to fix this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21281" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2021-11-13T09:40:23.820" LastActivityDate="2021-11-13T09:40:23.820" Title="Longer LK4 Pro moving to corner mid print" Tags="|extruder|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13711" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13698" CreationDate="2020-05-20T07:00:51.770" Score="3" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;All-metal hotends are less forgiving &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;not as good for PLA&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;but how bad?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That is very subjective and totally depending on the skill of the 3D printer operator! So, that part of the question cannot be answered.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fact is that all-metal hotends are sold as being upgrades to lined versions, this is simply not true. It is a different design that can handle higher temperatures. To operate such hotends you require a little more experience as these hotends are a little less forgiving if you do not have the right slicer settings. Key parameters are hotend temperature, cold end cooling and retraction speed and length and amount of retractions in the model.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another fact is that e.g. the Ultimaker cores concept (we opened a 0.4&amp;nbsp;mm core to see that for ourselves) doesn't use a PTFE lining, nor do other brands. They can perfectly print PLA (even with a high retraction length). The only time if failed printing PETG (higher temp than PLA) was the result of a heat creep induced clog which was caused by a cooling fan failure (the cooling fan ingested something and seized up), so just one print of a few meters of the several kilometers 2.85&amp;nbsp;mm that got printed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2020-05-20T07:00:51.770" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13712" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13820" CreationDate="2020-05-20T07:22:02.427" Score="3" ViewCount="2778" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most people complain about the filament not sticking on build plate but mine is vice versa. At first it used to be very good. When I removed the magnetic bed the project would come off easily but for a few days it is like I glue it to the bed with epoxy. It is impossible to remove and when I remove the black projects from the bed I see white color at the bottom of the object printed. Maybe because of too much force but I don't know why this happens.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21270" LastActivityDate="2020-06-06T12:59:33.427" Title="The filament is almost impossible to remove" Tags="|marlin|pla|creality-ender-3|troubleshooting|heated-bed|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13713" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13457" CreationDate="2020-05-20T13:32:29.080" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;/a/13458&quot;&gt;This answer&lt;/a&gt; hints to the correct diagnosis but doesn't explain how to fix this in Cura or any other solution other than babysteps. You don't want to adjust babysteps at every print...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically, your nozzle is too close to the bed (from comment 0.1&amp;nbsp;mm to be exact). To increase the distance between the nozzle and the bed you can:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;level with a little thicker paper,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;move the bed down on all corners,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;move the Z endstop up,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;redefine the Z=0 in your start code,&#xA;&lt;br&gt;&lt;code&gt;G1 Z0.1 ; Move to 0.1 mm height&lt;/code&gt;&#xA;&lt;br&gt;&lt;code&gt;G92 Z0  ; Redefine zero height&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;install Cura plugin &quot;Z Offset Setting&quot; from fieldOfView (through the Cura Marketplace) and define a &lt;code&gt;Z Offset&lt;/code&gt; of 0.1&amp;nbsp;mm, and/or&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;increase the first layer height a little.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-05-20T14:16:52.663" LastActivityDate="2020-05-20T14:16:52.663" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13719" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13705" CreationDate="2020-05-20T17:09:33.417" Score="0" Body="&lt;ol start=&quot;0&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Choose a code in the &amp;gt;10,000 in case new codes are added. But in this example I will choose 13&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Navigate to 'src' folder of Marlin&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Edit the file &lt;code&gt;gcode.cpp&lt;/code&gt; around line 223 to have a new unused number. For example, this will create a  new G code function for the label &lt;code&gt;G13&lt;/code&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;  ...&#xA;  // Handle a known G, M, or T&#xA;  switch (parser.command_letter) {&#xA;    case 'G': switch (parser.codenum) {&#xA;      case 13: G13(); break;&#xA;      case 0: case 1: G0_G1(  &#xA;  ...&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol start=&quot;3&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;On line 375 of &lt;code&gt;gcode.h&lt;/code&gt; add:  &lt;code&gt; static void G13();&lt;/code&gt; to declare it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;In my case i was reading values from an analog system. So I went to &lt;code&gt;src/temperatures&lt;/code&gt; and copied &lt;code&gt;M105.cpp&lt;/code&gt; to be &lt;code&gt;G13.cpp&lt;/code&gt;. Then inside the file I replaced &lt;code&gt;GcodeSuite::M105&lt;/code&gt; to be &lt;code&gt;GcodeSuite::G13&lt;/code&gt;. I am using this to take in the weight of something using a [scale][1] but for now I just want to test functionality so here is my test function:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;&#xA;void GcodeSuite::G13() {&#xA;&#xA;  SERIAL_ECHOPGM(MSG_OK);&#xA;  SERIAL_ECHOLNPGM(&amp;quot;here is where weights are broadcast&amp;quot;);&#xA;&#xA;}&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And again this is the only part I changed in my new copy of M105.cpp (a new file named G13.cpp). There is still more stuff in the file than just these few lines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol start=&quot;5&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Upload to board&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;When going to octoprint and typing in &lt;code&gt;G13&lt;/code&gt; I get:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;&#xA;Send: G13&#xA;Recv: okhere is where weights are broadcast&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A bit more work can be done to make it look nice, but this was the hard part.&#xA;[1]: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.instructables.com/id/Arduino-Bathroom-Scale-With-50-Kg-Load-Cells-and-H/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.instructables.com/id/Arduino-Bathroom-Scale-With-50-Kg-Load-Cells-and-H/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10369" LastEditorUserId="10369" LastEditDate="2020-11-26T23:23:23.953" LastActivityDate="2020-11-26T23:23:23.953" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13720" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12046" CreationDate="2020-05-20T17:25:17.767" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would recommend using an actual CAD/CAM program, such as Autodesk Fusion 360, instead of using a 3d model program. Not only will this be able to directly export you finished model to Cura, and the models are made in a way that works with a 3d printing slicer, there will be more help around 3D printing for it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although it is slightly difficult to use to start with, as you become more proficient, it is a very powerful tool to have. . Fusion 360 is free for hobbyists or students. See this link for help activating: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.autodesk.com/campaigns/fusion-360-for-hobbyists&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.autodesk.com/campaigns/fusion-360-for-hobbyists&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another option would be SolidWorks, although you do have to pay for this option, but it is much simpler to work with in my opinion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21277" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-05-20T17:51:37.740" LastActivityDate="2020-05-20T17:51:37.740" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13721" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13712" CreationDate="2020-05-20T17:46:16.627" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;This usually happens when your nozzle is too close to bed during the first layer.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  Quick fix is &lt;strong&gt;redo bed levelling&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  Clean your build surface.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Watch you first layer&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PAC4o.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PAC4o.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17500" LastActivityDate="2020-05-20T17:46:16.627" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13722" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13724" CreationDate="2020-05-21T13:51:39.333" Score="0" ViewCount="249" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sometimes my Extruder will start spinning pointlessly fast and long.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/HWjxV_dS1Kg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Youtube Video showing the problem&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This Issue only happens:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When printer has finished a Layer and moved up to the next (right after the Z axis has moved) &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Not on all, but only on some layers of a print.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Typically it will be more towards the middle of a print, and it will happen on several (maybe 10, 20, or a lot more) consecutive layers&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My regular Setup/Stack:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;PrusaSlicer-2.0.0+win64-201905201652&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Octoprint (Version 1.4.0)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tevo Tornado (with Mamorubot print-platform)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have tried to test whether the source of the problem could be Octoprint or the slicer/gcode.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Octoprint:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;The problem persists, when i print directly from SD&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;slicer/gcode:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Here is some gcode, one of a layer change where the problem did occur and one where it was fine:&#xA;Problem occured here:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;G1 X167.854 Y170.305 E209.95401&#xA;G1 X167.851 Y132.289 E210.24063&#xA;;BEFORE_LAYER_CHANGE&#xA;G92 E0.0&#xA;;3.95&#xA;&#xA;G1 Z3.950 F7800.000&#xA;;AFTER_LAYER_CHANGE&#xA;;3.95&#xA;G1 X168.141 Y131.859&#xA;G1 F3600&#xA;G1 X129.532 Y131.858 E211.24663&#xA;G1 X128.945 Y131.592 E211.26340&#xA;G1 X128.419 Y131.004 E211.28396&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No Problem occured here:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;G1 X168.288 Y170.558 E474.06508&#xA;G1 X168.224 Y170.259 E474.06950&#xA;G1 X168.213 Y131.857 E474.62495&#xA;;BEFORE_LAYER_CHANGE&#xA;G92 E0.0&#xA;;9.8&#xA;&#xA;G1 Z9.800 F7800.000&#xA;;AFTER_LAYER_CHANGE&#xA;;9.8&#xA;G1 X168.559 Y131.441&#xA;G1 F3600&#xA;G1 X129.622 Y131.440 E475.63947&#xA;G1 X129.198 Y131.248 E475.65161&#xA;G1 X128.776 Y130.777 E475.66807&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I cannot see any problem with the gcode.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now I am at my wits' end - what could be the source of the problem, and how to I proceed to debug it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12341" LastActivityDate="2020-05-23T09:11:58.610" Title="Extruder spins for a few seconds after layer changes" Tags="|extruder|g-code|tevo-tornado|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13723" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13725" CreationDate="2020-05-21T18:00:03.323" Score="1" ViewCount="215" Body="&lt;p&gt;Typically in Arduinos, most of the 5&amp;nbsp;V outputs that have a limited amount of current (40&amp;nbsp;mA). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any 3D printer boards, or is there even a more usual spot, where you can get a 5&amp;nbsp;V output that isn't capped by the microcontroller?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know that USB 2.0 is (typically) limited to 500&amp;nbsp;mA especally when connected to a laptop. Just wondering if there was a way to for e.g. get a 200&amp;nbsp;mA output from one of the 5&amp;nbsp;V pins, or more if there is a stronger power supply connected to the USB port. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10369" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-05-21T22:45:01.967" LastActivityDate="2020-05-22T13:36:03.090" Title="Access uncapped 5 V output on 3D printer controller board" Tags="|diy-3d-printer|electronics|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13724" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13722" CreationDate="2020-05-22T00:55:59.013" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Doing some googling, it looks like the &lt;code&gt;BEFORE_LAYER_CHANGE&lt;/code&gt; comment in the G-code and stuff that follow come from the &lt;code&gt;before_layer_gcode&lt;/code&gt; setting in your PrusaSlicer profile. Somehow, &lt;code&gt;G92 E0.0&lt;/code&gt; got in there. Remove it and the problem should go away.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-05-23T09:11:58.610" LastActivityDate="2020-05-23T09:11:58.610" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13725" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13723" CreationDate="2020-05-22T07:54:55.030" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Any pin that is labeled as &quot;5&amp;nbsp;V&quot; can supply the full amount of current. Looking at, for example, the &lt;a href=&quot;http://domoticx.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/05/Arduino-MEGA-pinout.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Arduino MEGA pinout&lt;/a&gt;, we can see several pins labeled in red with &quot;5&amp;nbsp;V&quot;. These are the pins you can use. Most 3D printer boards will expose the 5&amp;nbsp;V pins at several points. For example, the endstop connectors often have a 5&amp;nbsp;V pin that can be used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The pins that are limited to 40&amp;nbsp;mA that you are thinking of are the digital pins, i.e. the pins that can be switched on/off by the microcontroller. These are actually more limited than this, and while in some cases drawing 40&amp;nbsp;mA from them may be possible, it is not a good idea.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-05-22T13:35:00.220" LastActivityDate="2020-05-22T13:35:00.220" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13726" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13723" CreationDate="2020-05-22T13:34:56.920" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Any 5&amp;nbsp;V &quot;output&quot; on those main boards would be used to power a USB host. This is because the electronics actually runs on 3.3 volts. It would be better to splice the input power (the 12 to 24&amp;nbsp;V) and use a buck converter to get down to your required 5&amp;nbsp;V. Select the right one, and you can have all the current you need. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12857" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-05-22T13:36:03.090" LastActivityDate="2020-05-22T13:36:03.090" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13727" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-05-22T15:21:48.693" Score="0" ViewCount="105" Body="&lt;p&gt;For the last 3 months I have been working on a CNC drawing machine but to this day I can't get the algorithm for line detection so I came here. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can't understand only one part and it is CAM the (image to G-code) so I'd be grateful if someone could help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(I want to create my own software not use any modules)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21305" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-05-22T22:51:25.010" LastActivityDate="2020-06-21T23:04:30.447" Title="Can't create image to G-code software for CNC to process" Tags="|cnc|python|2d|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13728" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9991" CreationDate="2020-05-22T15:45:17.190" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You need to order the part printed by an SLA machine in PA, preferably with 10&amp;nbsp;% mineral or glass content. The heat deflection temperature is suitably high for any autoclaving you'll do, and the material will resist most every that your lab and throw at it. I also went down this road with a part for my own lab and found no reasonable solution from a consumer level FDM printer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21307" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-05-22T22:12:30.757" LastActivityDate="2020-05-22T22:12:30.757" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13729" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-05-22T16:38:48.500" Score="1" ViewCount="240" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am trying to do a project using stepsticks to drive stepper motors. I am currently testing the wiring of stepsticks on a breadboard using a stepper from CD driver and an old laptop charger. I connected it to my old A4988 driver according to this wiring diagram and everything is working how it should.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vlPr1.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vlPr1.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;A4988 connection&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, when I tried to swap the driver for the new TMC5160, and use it in STEP/DIR mode, the driver didn't work and one driving MOSFET started to overheat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is what am I doing wrong and is there anything I need to wire up differently? Or is the driver fried?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Before anyone asks I disconnected the power supply and arduino and I double checked the orientation of the driver not to connect it upside down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20767" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:29:41.667" LastActivityDate="2020-05-23T05:28:40.460" Title="TMC5160 Overheating" Tags="|stepper-driver|arduino|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13730" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13727" CreationDate="2020-05-22T22:32:50.987" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Generally, movement in a CNC, FDM-Printer, laser cutter, and Plotter has the XY plane decoupled from the Z-axis in most operations. As a result, the path in the XY plane is in 2D. But how to get to a path? Well, we have 2 variants:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Pixel&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most pictures store information as Pixels: each pixel on a grid has a color assigned to it. Scaling the picture does alter the grid size. These pictures are very hard to plot, unless you have your machine interpret each pixel of a given color as a specific movement operation. For example, each pixel of black color in a monochrome picture could be translated as a square-movement of a certain size, using the &lt;strong&gt;top-left&lt;/strong&gt; corner of the square for the operation's reference. In G-code, drawing a line around the Pixel X=10 Y=10 with a grid size of 1 mm looks like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;G90 ; absolute mode!&#xA;G1 X10 Y10&#xA;G1 X1 E1&#xA;G1 Y1 E1&#xA;G1 X-1 E1&#xA;G1 Y-1 E1&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Vector&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;proper 2D-Pathes are stored only in Vector graphics. If you can, Vector graphics can contain the exact path you want your machine to follow. A typical format is &lt;code&gt;.svg&lt;/code&gt;. It contains already the start position of path and how to follow it. Going from Vector Graphic to G-code just needs you to add G1 before each part of the path instruction and E commands at the end to operate whatever tool you due - be it spinning the drill in a CNC, extruding filament in a printer, turning on a laser or pushing down the printhead in a plotter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastActivityDate="2020-05-22T22:32:50.987" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13731" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-05-23T00:48:05.393" Score="1" ViewCount="453" Body="&lt;p&gt;About two months ago, I added a heated bed to my custom 3D printer in order to print larger ABS parts for my research project. The heated bed (the PCB kind) was not new, but taken from an old printer I had built, but took apart. The bed worked well for a few weeks, but after one print finished, the glass bed above the heater PCB had shattered into several pieces (represented by bed 1 in the image below) and the nozzle was below the level of the bed (I believed it had lowered into the glass causing the breakage. I haven't determined what caused this motion, but it hasn't happened since). Notably, this print was using the heated bed at 90 °C. I chalked this up to a freak accident, and since it did not happen again, just replaced the glass and kept printing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, as soon as the heated bed was activated after the replacement, a small crack appeared on the glass and continued to lengthen as time progressed. I took off the glass as soon as possible and prevented it from fully breaking (see bed 2 in the image below. This bed was smaller as I didn't have access to a large enough piece of glass at the time).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At this point, I figured something more than an impact caused the glass to shatter. Since both cracks occurred when the bed was heating or cooling, I figured that thermal shock could potentially be the source of the cracking, and a quick google reinforced this idea. Due to the nature of both cracks (not being straight shards but meandering around the build plate and propagating slowly), they both appeared to have been caused, or at least propagated, by thermal effects.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To try to avoid future cracking, I took care in assembling the third bed. The heater PCB was attached tightly to the glass with Kapton tape and a thin layer of thermal paste was added as an interface layer to try to get an even contact and heat distribution throughout the glass plate. I made sure that the cardboard shims (which press the glass into the clips) were not too compressed, thinking that pressure in the middle of the glass plate from the shims may have accentuated the cracking by putting the top of the glass under tension.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But after a few cycles with this new bed, the same problem appeared (bed 3 below). This time, the cracking was as severe as the first case, but no impact occurred and I was not touching the bed. The bed was heating up to temperature (90 °C) when the cracking occurred. The strangest part is, the file set to print was one I had already printed successfully on the newest bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At this point I am at a loss and don't know what to do next. I don't want to make another bed just to have it crack in a few prints, but I need the bed in the near future. Any suggestions to mitigate this problem would be greatly appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QRWws.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QRWws.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;The three shattered build plates&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update (currently fixed)&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have replaced the bed with a borosilicate glass sheet, switched the heater to a stick-on 120V silicone heater (the same size as the bed), and added a PEI sheet on top. After about 2 months, it is working great and no cracks have formed. My best guess is that it was a combination of poor glass, possibly with small fractures on the edges already since I cut it myself, and the heater which was too small for the bed. Thanks for the suggestions!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21310" LastEditorUserId="21310" LastEditDate="2020-08-21T18:42:37.293" LastActivityDate="2020-08-21T18:42:37.293" Title="Thermal Stress Cracking During Heat-Up on Glass Heated Bed" Tags="|heated-bed|glass-bed|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13732" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13269" CreationDate="2020-05-23T01:05:45.270" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Personally, I have found that if you bend the arm of the limit switch out, it gets triggered earlier and solves this issue for good, (broke a switch clean off at the bend on the pins, soldered old switch back onto the pins in the board) bent the arm to a greater angle, so the striker triggers 3-5&amp;nbsp;mm earlier, problem averted!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21265" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-05-23T05:18:47.260" LastActivityDate="2020-05-23T05:18:47.260" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13733" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13691" CreationDate="2020-05-23T05:59:53.200" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;As the heating curve is very steep, it could be that the wrong cartridges are inserted, or you have been supplied the incorrect cartridges. &lt;em&gt;(Not long ago I've had a similar experience with a 12 V cartridge in between my 24 V spares...)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To find out for which voltage the cartridge has to be used you can measure the resistance with a multitester/multimeter. You can calculate the resistance roughly by using the formulas:&#xA;&lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$$ U = I \times R$$&lt;/span&gt;&#xA;&lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$$ P = {U}\times{I} $$&lt;/span&gt;&#xA;Combing these formulas gives:&#xA;&lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$$ R = \frac{U^2}{P}$$&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(P is power in Watt [W], I is current [A], U is voltage [V] and R is the resistance in Ohm [Ω])&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your multimeter readings should be close to the calculated values. About 4 Ohms for a 12 V/40 W cartridge and about 14 Ohms for a 24 V/40 W cartridge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since the Ender 3 is running on 24 V, you need the higher resistance cartridges.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are using a 4 Ω (12 V/40 W) cartridge on 24 V, the power would become:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$$ P = \frac{U^2}{R}= \frac{24^2}{4}=144\ {W} $$&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This amount of power will quickly raise the temperature of the nozzle! It then becomes very difficult for the PID control schedule to harness that power (e.g. overshoot control).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the question is read that:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I used 24 V heater cartridges rather than the 12 V ones that came with the hot end&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the cartridges are truly 24 V this rapid heat-up is not expected, it could be that you accidentally received incorrect cartridges, you should measure the resistance to be sure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-10-20T08:57:58.163" LastActivityDate="2020-10-20T08:57:58.163" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13734" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13638" CreationDate="2020-05-23T11:22:45.087" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Solution found!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If &lt;code&gt;Display model errors&lt;/code&gt; is disabled, the dots appears.&#xA;Check the setting, hit &lt;code&gt;OK&lt;/code&gt;, click on the box and they disappear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BhlE0.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BhlE0.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21154" LastActivityDate="2020-05-23T11:22:45.087" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13735" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13731" CreationDate="2020-05-23T15:41:51.867" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The problem is in the design of your bed. Let's start from the basic setup of a glass bed:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The heater element is usually mounted to a metal carrier, which is both spreading the thermal energy over the bed, but also is the structural element that is leveled against the carriage. Atop that comes the glass print surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, once the heater element is turned on, the aluminium starts to expand and evens the distribution to the glass. As the glass has a much lower thermal expansion coefficient, it doesn't expand as fast. Because of this, the glass surface should &lt;strong&gt;never&lt;/strong&gt; be glued to the bed or heater but held in position to the metal bed with a clip. This way the thermal and mechanical stress on the glass sheet is mitigated: The metal bed evens the heat transfer and the clip can move its position on the glass.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastActivityDate="2020-05-23T15:41:51.867" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13736" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-05-23T21:00:59.777" Score="3" ViewCount="3957" Body="&lt;p&gt;As stated above, I am trying to solve a problem I've had for a long time. Unfortunately, this has recently intensified to the point where it causes layer splitting/detaching from each other. I have tried various ways to fix this and, while decreasing the temperature and extrusion multiplier improved the situation, the problem is still present. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My settings:&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Nozzle 235&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C Bed 100&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cooling 25&amp;nbsp;%&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Extrusion multiplier 0.89&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Speed 150&amp;nbsp;mm/s for everything, 50&amp;nbsp;mm/s for small perimiters&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Acceleration 1000&amp;nbsp;mm/s&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;, (default) &#xA;&lt;li&gt;Layer height 0.15-0.3mm&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Line width - 0.6mm for everything, but 0.45 for first layer and 0.42 for top solid infill&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a different solution than lowering print speed or buying an E3D silicon sock? I have lost my spare ones and the current one wore down. Obviously, I can simply pause the print when I see plastic bulding up on the nozzle, but I am sure that there is a more efficient solution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;UPDATE: I found that the hotend was very dirty and full of burnt/molten plastic. I am almost sure that the hotend is leaking somewhere between the heat block and the heat break. This didn't happen before I replaced the nozzle. How can I fix this? Do I have to replace the heat break or some other part?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20621" LastEditorUserId="20621" LastEditDate="2020-06-02T07:07:56.543" LastActivityDate="2020-06-02T07:07:56.543" Title="How to solve burnt blobs on Prusa MK3S (PETG)?" Tags="|print-quality|prusa-i3|petg|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13737" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-05-24T09:36:23.200" Score="4" ViewCount="3842" Body="&lt;p&gt;First of all, I'm still new to this 3D printing and I've bought myself a second hand Ender 3 with some mods done to it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've successfully printed with PLA in different colors but after a good first layer the print seems like it is skipping lines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've already tried to:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Change the nozzle&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Set the bed level (like a million times)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Download calibration files (e.g calibration squares)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have used Cura with the Ender 3 Pro profile:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I print in PLA at 200 °C&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A print bed temperature of 60°C&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cooling fan at 100%&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Layer height of 0.2 mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Line width is 0.4 mm from a 0.4 mm nozzle&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Printing Speed is set to 50 mm/s for walls and 25mm/s for infill&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Retraction is 6.5 mm/off at 25mm/s&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I really don't know how to fix it the bad quality.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SJMBw.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SJMBw.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21321" LastEditorUserId="14562" LastEditDate="2020-06-23T20:08:22.493" LastActivityDate="2023-07-06T15:31:36.410" Title="Print gets worse with every layer - Ender 3" Tags="|print-quality|pla|creality-ender-3|troubleshooting|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13738" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13737" CreationDate="2020-05-24T14:59:11.550" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Many questions on 3D Printing SE are answered, at least by me, not with a &amp;quot;this is the problem&amp;quot;, but instead, this is how I would analyze it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looking at the picture you supplied, there is something strangely periodic about the under-extrusion in the top visible flat layer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't think it is an X or Y axis problem.  It is too low-frequency to be an extruder drive problem, such as a slippery drive hobbed gear.  It seems too high frequency to be a filament feed problem, unless you are very close to the end of a spool with a small inner diameter.  This is less likely because you have printed many things, and I would infer that you have seen this with full spools and empty ones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Ender 3 looks like a Bowden-fed printer.  You are printing PLA, which should work well with Bowden.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Temperature variation could also cause this problem.  If the nozzle were cooling and heating in an unstable control cycle, where the nozzle is cooler you would find under extrusion and even non-extrusion.  This looks compatible with the results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What could cause thermal problems?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Not delivering energy to the heater, perhaps because of a bad&#xA;connection, or perhaps because of an intermittent heater cartridge&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Not sensing the temperature correctly, perhaps because of a shorting thermister&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Thermal control look is out of tune, which I consider unlikely since you haven't messed with it, and in my experience that is pretty forgiving&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Not conducting heat from the heater to the nozzle, which is unlikely&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have an infrared thermometer, put a piece of masking tape on the heater (to get a consistent IR emissivity) and monitor the temperature.  Is it cooler when under extruding?  It might only be a few degrees different, but that could be enough if you are right on the transition temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the temperature is stable, you might try printing 10 degrees hotter, just to see.  Some variation is normal, and you might be on the edge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is possible you have a filament that widely varies in diameter, but for that strong an effect, you would have noticed that the filament was thinner in some places than others.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My best suggestion is to look at temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Further Reflection&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is also possible that you have something dragging on the filament spool.  I don't like it as a solution, but it is consistent with printing a lot (at the beginning of spools) and then encountering this problem.  A problem feeding, although I discounted it in my earlier answer, could produce a periodic under-extrusion if the drag on the spool changes.  If the problem was one-time, then it may have been bad winding in the spool so that once per revolution it requires some extra tug to unwind the filament.  That tug would reduce the torque available to push the filament through the working side of the printer.  There might be extruder jumps (pops, clicks, etc.) coming from the extruder as it skipped steps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2082" LastEditorUserId="39012" LastEditDate="2023-07-06T15:31:36.410" LastActivityDate="2023-07-06T15:31:36.410" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13739" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14699" CreationDate="2020-05-24T16:17:20.553" Score="3" ViewCount="277" Body="&lt;p&gt;About a year a go I bought a Tevo Little Monster second hand. It was a little dirty but (as far as I could see) unmodified. I put away that noisy &quot;MKS SBASE&quot;-board with smoothieware and installed a nice Duet 2 Ethernet board. I tried for weeks to get it going but without success, then decided to try it again later.&#xA;Now I am on it again and already put a lot more effort in it than last time. Anyway, the problem persists and it is really driving me nuts!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Out there on the internet are several people who succeeded with a duet board on the same printer, so it must be possible. For Example &lt;a href=&quot;https://forum.duet3d.com/topic/1612/tevo-little-monster-duet-ethernet-conversion&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this one&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;My Background&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am doing 3D printing for a while now. Besides the Little Monster I own a Makerbot Replicator 2X (running latest Sailfish), a Anycubic Delta Linear Plus (running self-compiled Marlin 1.1.9) and – for two weeks now – a Two Trees Sapphire Pro (running self-compiled Marlin 2.0.x). All these printers are running absolutely fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Problem&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as I can tell, my problem boils down to inaccurate z positioning of the nozzle.&#xA;This makes the nozzle (heavily) scratch on printed parts of the same layer. Small parts are often ripped of the bed by the nozzle before the print is finished. Practically I cannot use the printer in its current state.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/cQqF4Cd4BHg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Here is a video of the Problem.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Test setup&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My usual test scenario is a 100 x 100 x 20 mm box with two walls, two top/bottom-layers and 50% Infill. Maximum Speed 90 mm/s. The speed should be fine, as the printer is advertised with 300 mm/s.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;What I changed from stock:&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Install genuine BL Touch&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Changed controller board from stock &quot;MKS SBASE&quot; to Duet 2 Ethernet&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Removed sticker from printbed and placed a UltraBase (310 x 310 mm) on top of the stock glas plate&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Replaced stock titan-ish extruder by cloned BMG dual drive Extruder (same extruder as on all of my other printers)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Replaced full-metal hotend by a hotend with PTFE liner&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;What I already tried to solve the problem:&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Hypothesis: Bad config of duet board&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Actions: see separate section&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Hypothesis: Narrow nosed nozzle does not smooth the printed line enough&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Actions: replaced narrow-nosed nozzle (0.6mm) by broad-nosed nozzle (0.4mm) and adjusted cura accordingly&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Result: No difference&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Hytothesis: There is something wrong with the firmware&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Action: Upgraded duet board from RepRap 2.0 to 3.0&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Result: No difference&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Hyptothesis: Geometrical inaccurate build&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Actions: Measured arm space on effector and carriages (by caliper), &quot;measured&quot; rod lengths by eye (b/c my caliper can only measure about 150mm), checked towers by eye for bending.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Result: Arm spacing on effector and carriage is the same down to 0.19mm. Rod lengths have no noticeable difference, towers seem to be straight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Hypothesis: Joints on delta Rods have play&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Actions: Tried to shake/move/wiggle the effector by hand&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Result: No noticeable play&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Hypothesis: Overextrusion&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Action: Intentionally underextruded (80% flow) for testing&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Result: Printed lines became noticable more narrow (not even touch each other), but scratching persists.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Hypothesis: Rubber wheels of the carriages running too rough and are worn out&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Action: Replaced rubber wheels by linear Rails. (&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4391975&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Thingiverse&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Result: Carriages run much smoother, but this change does not help with my problem&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Hypothesis: Belt tension is bad&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Action: Tensioned the belts thoroughly&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Result: No noticable difference&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Hypothesis: Tooth belts are worn out&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Action: Replaced tooth-belt with new GT-2 Belt&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Result: Belts look more regular when moving, does not help with my problem&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Hypothesis: Pulleys and Idlers are worn out or not sufficiently round&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Action: Replaced Pulleys and Idlers&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Result: No noticable difference&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Hypothesis: One or more of the stepper motors are not working properly&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Action: Replaced all tower motors (incl. wiring) with new ones&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Result: No noticable difference&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Hypothesis: One of the stepper drivers is not working correctly&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Action1: Investigation of signals on the motor-wires by oscilloscope&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Result1: They all looked about the same (short square pulses), in principal no difference between all motor wires. (I do not know how these signals &lt;em&gt;should&lt;/em&gt; look like. I just tried to spot differences.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Action2: Changed the drivers for the tower motors one by one with the unused E1-driver&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Result2: No noticable difference&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Hypothesis: Leveling is bad due bad probing&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Action1: Checked leveling manually (with feeler gauge) and checked BL-Touch repeatability. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Result1: Found deviation of 0.2mm on some points between automated and manual leveling. Repeatability is good (accurate to 0.02mm)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Action2: Leveling is now done by a DF9-40 weight-resistor (and a voltage divider). This sensor is mounted (manually every time) directly under the nozzle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Result2: The first layer is next to perfect. To my understanding that means a correct calibration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Hypothesis: Flying extruder is too heavy and impacts the accuracy of the carriage movement&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Action: changed extruder from flying to remote, mounted on one of the towers&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Result: Problem seems to hit maybe a little less. I am not entirely sure about this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Hypothesis: My problem is no problem, a little scratching is nothing unusual&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Action: Tried the same print on my smaller Delta printer&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Result: No scratching on the other printer. Hence it seems not to be usual.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Hypothesis: Scratching is related partial overextrusion due to &quot;extrusion delay&quot; caused by bowden system&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Action: Tested linear advance between 0 to 1.2&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Result: linear advance seems to work as intended (watching the extruder), but does not change anything on my problem&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Configuration&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried to transfer the settings from the original smoothieware config-files as good as possible. Original smoothieware files can be found &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/Homers3D/Tevo-Little-Monster/blob/master/Control%20Board/config&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here on github&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To have a consistent config, I used the &lt;a href=&quot;https://configtool.reprapfirmware.org/Start&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;RRF Browser Config Tool&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Motor Current:&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;There is no advice printed on the original motors concerning the current. Smoothieware config file says 1.5 Amp. Thats what I configured. (The Replacement-Motors came with a data sheet, they can take 2 Amp. So they got 2 Amp)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Steps per mm:&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;On all tower motors there are 20-tooth-GT2-pulleys. RRF Config tool suggests 80 steps/mm (with 16x microstepping). I tried it with and without interpolation from 16x to 256x and with &quot;native&quot; 256x microstepping (1280 steps/mm). Also tried native 32x microstepping with 159.53 steps/mm (like in the smoothieware config) and 160 steps/mm. Does not change anything on the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Delta Parameters:&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/Homers3D/Tevo-Little-Monster/blob/master/Control%20Board/config&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Original Smoothieware&lt;/a&gt; config suggests:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;arm_length      397.1900            # This is the length of an arm from hinge to hinge&#xA;arm_radius      157.0741            # This is the horizontal distance from hinge to hinge when the effector is centered&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That seems to be (roughly) consistent with what I measure by folding ruler. So that is what I put in my config right away.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Auto Calibration:&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;Tried 4,6,7,8 and 9 factors (using the force-sensor, not BL Touch) and put the results into splunk. Each data point is averaged over 3 calibration runs with exactly the same settings, every time starting from the smoothieware stock-values. (First run was with 159.53 steps/mm, second with 160 steps/mm)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZcZuJ.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZcZuJ.png&quot; alt=&quot;Splunk Dashboard showing calibration behaviour&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Surprisingly the auto calibration finds reliably the same parameters, which differ from the stock-config ones. I have no Idea why, but similar things happen on my smaller delta printer. Hence I do not consider this a problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Speed and acceleration:&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;Lowering acceleration (down to 300 mm/s) does not change anything. Lowering speed makes scratching less loud, but still hearable/feelable rumble from the nozzle on the print. Prints are still ripped of the print bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;; Configuration file for Duet WiFi (firmware version 3)&#xA;; executed by the firmware on start-up&#xA;;&#xA;; generated by RepRapFirmware Configuration Tool v2.1.8 on Fri Apr 24 2020 17:00:42 GMT+0200 (CEST)&#xA;&#xA;; General preferences&#xA;G90                                            ; send absolute coordinates...&#xA;M83                                            ; ...but relative extruder moves&#xA;M550 P&quot;jKossel19&quot;                              ; set printer name&#xA;;M665 R157.0741 L397.19 B155 H522               ; &#xA;M665 R170 L397.19 B155 H525            ; from forum.duet3d.com with modified hight 520 ==&amp;gt; 525&#xA;M666 X0 Y0 Z0                                  ; put your endstop adjustments here, or let auto calibration find them&#xA;&#xA;; Network&#xA;M552 S1                                        ; enable network&#xA;M586 P0 S1                                     ; enable HTTP&#xA;M586 P1 S0                                     ; disable FTP&#xA;M586 P2 S0                                     ; disable Telnet&#xA;&#xA;; Drives&#xA;M569 P0 S0                                     ; physical drive 0 goes backwards&#xA;M569 P1 S0                                     ; physical drive 1 goes backwards&#xA;M569 P2 S0                                     ; physical drive 2 goes backwards&#xA;M569 P3 S0                                     ; physical drive 3 goes backwards&#xA;M584 X0 Y1 Z2 E3                               ; set drive mapping&#xA;M350 X16 Y16 Z16 E16 I1                        ; configure microstepping with interpolation&#xA;M92 X80 Y80 Z80 E418.00                        ; set steps per mm&#xA;M566 X480.00 Y480.00 Z480.00 E1200.00          ; set maximum instantaneous speed changes (mm/min)&#xA;M203 X240000.00 Y240000.00 Z240000.00 E1800.00 ; set maximum speeds (mm/min)&#xA;M201 X1000.00 Y1000.00 Z1000.00 E1000.00       ; set accelerations (mm/s^2)&#xA;M906 X2000 Y2000 Z2000 E800 I30                ; set motor currents (mA) and motor idle factor in per cent&#xA;M84 S30                                        ; Set idle timeout&#xA;&#xA;; Axis Limits&#xA;M208 Z0 S1                                     ; set minimum Z&#xA;&#xA;; Endstops&#xA;M574 X2 S1 P&quot;xstop&quot;                            ; configure active-high endstop for high end on X via pin xstop&#xA;M574 Y2 S1 P&quot;ystop&quot;                            ; configure active-high endstop for high end on Y via pin ystop&#xA;M574 Z2 S1 P&quot;zstop&quot;                            ; configure active-high endstop for high end on Z via pin zstop&#xA;&#xA;; Z-Probe BLTouch&#xA;;M950 S0 C&quot;exp.heater3&quot;                         ; create servo pin 0 for BLTouch&#xA;;M558 P9 C&quot;zprobe.in+zprobe.mod&quot; H5 F120 T6000  ; set Z probe type to bltouch and the dive height + speeds&#xA;;G31 P500 X0 Y20 Z0.45                          ; set Z probe trigger value, offset and trigger height&#xA;;M557 R140 S45                                  ; define mesh grid&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;; Z-Probe MANUAL&#xA;;M558 P0 H5 F120 T6000                          ; disable Z probe but set dive height, probe speed and travel speed&#xA;&#xA;; Z-Probe weight resistor&#xA;M558 P1 C&quot;zprobe.in&quot; H5 F60 T6000              ; set Z probe type to unmodulated and the dive height + speeds&#xA;G31 P500 X0 Y0 Z0.05                           ; set Z probe trigger value, offset and trigger height&#xA;&#xA;; Heaters&#xA;M308 S0 P&quot;bedtemp&quot; Y&quot;thermistor&quot; T100000 B4092 ; configure sensor 0 as thermistor on pin bedtemp&#xA;M950 H0 C&quot;bedheat&quot; T0 Q10                      ; create bed heater output on bedheat and map it to sensor 0&#xA;M143 H0 S120                                   ; set temperature limit for heater 0 to 120C&#xA;M307 H0 B0 S1.00                               ; disable bang-bang mode for the bed heater and set PWM limit&#xA;M140 H0                                        ; map heated bed to heater 0&#xA;M308 S1 P&quot;e0temp&quot; Y&quot;thermistor&quot; T100000 B4092  ; configure sensor 1 as thermistor on pin e0temp&#xA;M950 H1 C&quot;e0heat&quot; T1                           ; create nozzle heater output on e0heat and map it to sensor 1&#xA;M143 H1 S280                                   ; set temperature limit for heater 1 to 280C&#xA;M307 H1 B0 S1.00                               ; disable bang-bang mode for heater  and set PWM limit&#xA;&#xA;; Fans&#xA;M950 F0 C&quot;fan0&quot; Q500                           ; create fan 0 on pin fan0 and set its frequency&#xA;M106 P0 S1 H1 T50                              ; set fan 0 value. Thermostatic control is turned on&#xA;M950 F1 C&quot;fan1&quot; Q500                           ; create fan 1 on pin fan1 and set its frequency&#xA;M106 P1 S0 H-1                                 ; set fan 1 value. Thermostatic control is turned off&#xA;&#xA;; Tools&#xA;M563 P0 S&quot;Vulcan&quot; D0 H1 F0:2:1                 ; define tool 0&#xA;G10 P0 X0 Y0 Z0                                ; set tool 0 axis offsets&#xA;G10 P0 R0 S0                                   ; set initial tool 0 active and standby temperatures to 0C&#xA;&#xA;; Custom settings&#xA;; set heater parameters&#xA;M307 H0 A213.8 C593.5 D3.3 S1.00 V24.6 B0&#xA;M307 H1 A513.6 C184.3 D8.4 S1.00 V24.4 B0&#xA;M572 D0 S0.5 ; pressure advance&#xA;&#xA;; Miscellaneous&#xA;M501                                           ; load saved parameters from non-volatile memory&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Workarounds:&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Yes Z-hop helps, but only with travel moves. That is no solution, only a partly working workaround. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;No infill with crossing lines: Yes possible, but no: i want a sturdy infill.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;What I still do not understand:&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Measurements are subject to statistical errors. Marlin (on my anycubic delta-printer) fights this by probing the same point multiple times and taking the average for calibration. As far as I could find out, RepRap firmware does not support this. Is that correct? Is there any good reason? I am quite sure, calibration accuracy would get a little better with this.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Does a perfect first layer really mean accurate calibration of the delta-parameters? Is there any other way i can be sure?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I really would like to know more about the effector tilt. But a bubble level does not offer enough accuracy. Is there any good way to measure this?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I am absolutely not sure about this, but I remember very faintly not to have this problem when printing with the original smoothie board on a completely unmodified printer. But I only made one or two test prints with it. Sadly I cannot test it anymore, because I do not have the smoothie board anymore.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;In the very first place I made a mistake with wiring of the motors to the duet board and shorted at least one motor output. (Duet board told me so, I corrected my mistake. Afterwards everything seemed fine.) Might I have damaged my duet board in a way that might cause my problem?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;There are parameters in the smoothie config that I cannot find in the duet config. Neither could I find why the duet config does not need these parameters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;mm_max_arc_error&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;mm_per_arc_segment&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Auto calibration finds (repeatable) delta parameters that do not match the smoothieware config, mainly rod length and delta radius. Is there any difference in definition? The numbers from the original smoothieware definition seem to be more consistent with my (quite unprecise) measurements (down to 1-2 mm). I actually know this behavior of &quot;too long&quot; calibrated push rods from my Anycubic Delta. But it does not seem to cause any problems there.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Recently tried:&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;changed duet board for a new one (yes I bought a brand new one)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;used different slicer (Slic3r instead of cura)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;started from scratch with a new config&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Result:&lt;/em&gt;&#xA;problem persists and has not changed noticeably.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14901" LastEditorUserId="14901" LastEditDate="2020-06-06T14:18:31.717" LastActivityDate="2020-10-30T16:09:56.003" Title="Deltaprinter scratches print" Tags="|delta|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13740" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-05-24T19:33:09.037" Score="1" ViewCount="435" Body="&lt;p&gt;Setup:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Prusa MINI with 0.6&amp;nbsp;mm Nozzle. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Firmware 4.0.5&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bootloader version 1.0.0&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Buddy board 1.0.2&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Prusa Slicer 2.2.0 &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Using the OctoPrint 1.4.0 on OctoPi 0.17.0 with serial&#xA;connection.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Find the G-code &lt;a href=&quot;https://gist.github.com/powtac/5ea2c492e65cbc48a9f6e5c4a7fc6f3e&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The amf is found &lt;a href=&quot;https://gist.github.com/powtac/a3754240e18cd15b9df994e435e2cd74&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After I switched to the 0.6&amp;nbsp;mm Nozzle I have massive problems to get good results, as you can see in the picture below. The two parts in the front starting to have from the height of about 5&amp;nbsp;mm very bad lines. I realized it 5&amp;nbsp;mm later and I set manually the temperature from 215 to 220&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C which seemed to solved the problem a little bit, but still not perfect results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you can see in the second picture, I removed the 0.6&amp;nbsp;mm nozzle to make sure it fitted. I did, there is no filament on the thread.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Test: I did use some noname filament with the 0.6&amp;nbsp;mm nozzle first and had bad results as well. The problem mainly was, that the temperature (215&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C) was too low. So I raised it for the noname filament to 240&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg; which seemed to solve the problem but quality was not perfect, so I switched to the Prusa Polymers filament to make sure the issue is not related to the filament.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So what could be the issue here?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ptdil.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ptdil.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yusL4.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yusL4.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/59HVa.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/59HVa.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4139" LastEditorUserId="4139" LastEditDate="2020-05-25T15:28:15.063" LastActivityDate="2020-05-25T15:28:15.063" Title="Prusa MINI 0.6 mm nozzle print fail" Tags="|print-quality|prusaslicer|prusa-mini|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13741" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13676" CreationDate="2020-05-24T21:06:51.947" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;From the wispy horizontal lines within the perimeters in your second image, it appears that the nozzle is still oozing material during the travel moves. This is likely causing the hole in the corner and the wispy perimeters too. When the extruder reinserts the filament into the hotend after a travel move, it expects the same amount of material to be in the nozzle as when it extracted the filament, but some material has oozed out during the travel move so that is not the case. I had a similar issue with my printer, and was able to mitigate the problem by increasing the &lt;em&gt;retraction extra prime amount&lt;/em&gt; in the material section of Cura. This should compensate for the material loss during the travel move by reinserting the filament slightly farther when starting the extrusion. This solution is not perfect as different lengths of travel allow different volumes of filament to ooze from the nozzle. If you want perfect prints, you may have to tune this to the model you are printing: larger models usually require larger travel moves which would allow more time for plastic to ooze from the nozzle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you try this, make sure to look for blobs at the start of extrude moves. If the prime amount is set to high, it can create blobs on the side of the model (or inside depending on which perimeter is extruded first) which could cause tolerance issues on more complex parts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally, I have also added a small coast distance to the end of each extrusion (located in Cura's experimental section). This allows the nozzle to ooze into the perimeter of the part which should decrease the stringing on travel moves, and thus loss of material on travel moves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21310" LastActivityDate="2020-05-24T21:06:51.947" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13742" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-05-25T06:31:56.883" Score="1" ViewCount="250" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Problem:&lt;/strong&gt; After about 1.5 hours of printing on my modified Anet A8 the (converted to Bowden) extruder begins to make a &lt;strong&gt;clicking noise&lt;/strong&gt;. The filament is not being pushed through the hotend (E3D V6, it is an all metal hotend, and the cooling is out of the box, the heat break is inserted with thermal paste) any more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Done so far:&lt;/strong&gt; I experienced, that if I were to &lt;strong&gt;retract the PLA 10&amp;nbsp;mm&lt;/strong&gt; and then restart the print, it would run a print fine, but the it starts all over again. I &lt;strong&gt;already disassembled&lt;/strong&gt; the complete head and clear out the nozzle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Thoughts:&lt;/strong&gt; I think it must have something to do with the &lt;strong&gt;slicing settings&lt;/strong&gt;, because if I change the flow, I can cause the problem to occur earlier. The filament is also pretty cheap and has been exposed to air a year or so...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;My Settings:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Layer Height: 0.2&amp;nbsp;mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Infill: 40&amp;nbsp;%&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hotend Temperature: 190&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Build Plate Temperature: 45&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Diameter: 1.75&amp;nbsp;mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Flow: 70&amp;nbsp;%&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Retraction: true&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Retract Speed: 100&amp;nbsp;mm/s&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Retract Lenght: 3&amp;nbsp;mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Print Speed: 60&amp;nbsp;mm/s&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Travel Speed: 120&amp;nbsp;mm/s&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21325" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-05-26T08:51:49.980" LastActivityDate="2020-05-26T08:51:49.980" Title="Filament getting stuck after 1.5 hours of printing" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|anet-a8|e3d-v6|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13743" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13736" CreationDate="2020-05-25T12:24:56.790" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I saw PETG printed at 100 mm/s, but 150! That's a lot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One solution to avoid blobs may be to limit the maximum speed to a value you can actually achieve with reliable results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Simple test to find your machine limits (each combination filament brand + nozzle + temperature has a different value): extrude filament in the air at increasing speeds, see how the flow changes, and when you see more than 5% decrease, that's it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;M83&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;mark the filament as if you were calibrating the E steps&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;calculate filament speed: speed = volum/s / filament surface * 60 = mm^3/s * 25 (this factor is valid for 1.75 mm filament)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;set extrusion speed for 2 mm^3/s: G1 F50&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;extrude 50 mm: G1 E50&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;measure actual length extruded&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;repeat 2.-6. but increase the speed by 2 mm^3/s each time: 2, 4, 6, 8, 10, 12, ...&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;at a certain speed you will see that the actual filament length starts to decrease. When you see that the underextrusion reaches 5-10% (depending how much underextrusion you accept), write down that volumetric speed (mm^3/s) somewhere, it's your limit for THAT filament + THAT nozzle + THAT temperature&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Either a) calculate the max print speed = volumetric speed / layer height / line width or b) set the maximum volumetric flow rate in the slicing software so that the speed will be automatically capped taking into account layer height and line width. &lt;a href=&quot;https://help.prusa3d.com/en/article/max-volumetric-speed_127176/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Prusaslicer&lt;/a&gt; allows to set that in the &quot;Print&quot; or in &quot;Filament&quot; settings, I recommend it for &quot;Filament&quot; settings, since it's a filament-dependent parameter.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Example data from &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.cnckitchen.com/blog/flow-rate-benchmarking-of-a-hotend&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;CNC Kitchen&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xXRYV.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xXRYV.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can increase the max print speed, at the price of a little loss of quality around edges, if you calibrate the E steps at a speed corresponding to 2-3% underextrusion (alternative: to the speed of outer perimeters).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This way you know that when you print slower than that (uncommon... typically only sharp corners and small perimeters) you'll get up to 2-3% overextrusion, and you extend by 2-3% the maximum print speed, since your max speed is the one where you get 5-10% underextrusion compared to your E steps calibration speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2338" LastEditorUserId="2338" LastEditDate="2020-05-25T13:31:22.910" LastActivityDate="2020-05-25T13:31:22.910" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13744" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13731" CreationDate="2020-05-25T12:36:44.203" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would be careful before trying another glass just hoping it will go better, since you haven't found the issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a PCB heated bed in direct contact (PCB copper traces on top) a 2 mm glass (plain float glass, not hardened and not borosilicate). It never broke and I've been using it intensely for the last few months. My heated bed is very flat (even if it bends with the heat) and also clean: no residues which can push against the glass. Clean yours properly!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, how powerful is your heated bed? mine is about 120 W for 12x12 cm. If yours is too powerful, maybe you could slow down the heating by reducing the maximum duty cycle (you need maybe to recompile Marlin) or by increasing the temperature 10 °C at time. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also see that you use mirrors, maybe recovered from other applications. I bought the glass new, which is very cheap but it is also guaranteed defect free. Maybe yours had issues already.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2338" LastActivityDate="2020-05-25T12:36:44.203" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13745" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-05-25T13:15:45.713" Score="2" ViewCount="313" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am a total beginner to Fusion 360. I need to add a fillet. Look at the picture to get better idea.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YTnZ4.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YTnZ4.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21326" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-05-25T13:55:08.460" LastActivityDate="2020-05-25T17:37:43.673" Title="How to add a proper fillet to corner of a cuboid in Fusion 360?" Tags="|fusion360|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13746" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13745" CreationDate="2020-05-25T17:37:43.673" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are probably many ways to do this, this method describes how I do this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First you need to &lt;code&gt;fillet&lt;/code&gt; the top, then you &lt;code&gt;chamfer&lt;/code&gt; the edges.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Create a lid:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gUgm5.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gUgm5.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fillet the corner edges:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MlAPA.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MlAPA.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Chamfer the lid edges:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rQFaC.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rQFaC.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2020-05-25T17:37:43.673" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13747" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12098" CreationDate="2020-05-25T18:44:12.243" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;This &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.everybitelectronics.co.uk/blog/3d-printer-error-prints-reversed/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;blog post&lt;/a&gt; shows 3 main solutions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Flipping the motor cables (As suggested in the other answer)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Switching the x and y-axis:&#xA;This may switch the direction of your y-axis depending on the way your printer is setup)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Change the direction of the axis in firmware which you can see below how to do:&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&quot;When the solution opens up, you will see many different files open. You need to navigate to the Configuration.h file. Within this file scroll down to the following lines of code:&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;// Invert the stepper direction. Change (or reverse the motor connector) if an axis goes the wrong way. &#xA;define INVERT_X_DIR true &#xA;&#xA;define INVERT_Y_DIR true &#xA;&#xA;define INVERT_Z_DIR true&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&quot;This is where you need to switch the values around. If they are currently true, change them to false and if they are false, change them to true. Due to the fact I was having issues with my x-Axis, I have changed the above to the following:&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;// Invert the stepper direction. Change (or reverse the motor connector) if an axis goes the wrong way.&#xA;&#xA;define INVERT_X_DIR false&#xA;&#xA;define INVERT_Y_DIR true &#xA;&#xA;define INVERT_Z_DIR true&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21333" LastEditorUserId="21333" LastEditDate="2020-05-26T06:55:06.040" LastActivityDate="2020-05-26T06:55:06.040" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13748" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13749" CreationDate="2020-05-25T19:17:55.043" Score="1" ViewCount="364" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm using an Ender 3 with a new upgraded board SKR 1.3 Marlin bugfix 2.0 auto bed leveling I use EZABL.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;for the EZABL I followed their &lt;a href=&quot;https://th3dstudio.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/articles/360043293552?seq_no=2&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;tutorial&lt;/a&gt; for Marlin 2.0 since I don't use the unified firmware.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Offset info :&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;code&gt;#define NOZZLE_TO_PROBE_OFFSET { 50, -2, 0 }&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;code&gt;#define MIN_PROBE_EDGE 20&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did try to follow this helpful &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/8153/how-to-set-z-probe-boundary-limits-in-firmware-when-using-automatic-bed-leveling&quot;&gt;guide&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know much about programming so when he said:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&quot;As this is the part that defines the array values, you first need to make an array (note that this is a simple solution that many people should be able to understand with limited programming skills, more elegant solutions use the XYZ struct to access the X, Y or Z properties):&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;code&gt;constexpr int nozzle_to_probe_offset[] = NOZZLE_TO_PROBE_OFFSET;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;code&gt;#define PROBE_X_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER nozzle_to_probe_offset[0]&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;code&gt;#define PROBE_Y_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER nozzle_to_probe_offset[1]&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't understand where to put the lines above and what value to put.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;update:&#xA;error message on compiling&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Qqj7F.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Qqj7F.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;Config.h : &lt;a href=&quot;https://pastebin.com/w7CC5eaC&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://pastebin.com/w7CC5eaC&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;Config_adv.h : &lt;a href=&quot;https://pastebin.com/qep34T1h&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://pastebin.com/qep34T1h&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21331" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-05-26T21:51:08.723" LastActivityDate="2020-05-28T22:20:23.170" Title="Auto bed leveling offset issue" Tags="|marlin|skr-v1.3|ezabl|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13749" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13748" CreationDate="2020-05-25T21:37:43.163" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You do not need to adjust the area yourself for Marlin 2.0, please look into &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/blob/2.0.x/Marlin/src/module/probe.h&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;probe.h&lt;/a&gt; and into &lt;a href=&quot;/a/8154&quot;&gt;this answer&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You only need to enable the offsets:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#if PROBE_SELECTED &amp;amp;&amp;amp; !IS_KINEMATIC&#xA;  #define MIN_PROBE_EDGE_LEFT MIN_PROBE_EDGE&#xA;  #define MIN_PROBE_EDGE_RIGHT MIN_PROBE_EDGE&#xA;  #define MIN_PROBE_EDGE_FRONT MIN_PROBE_EDGE&#xA;  #define MIN_PROBE_EDGE_BACK MIN_PROBE_EDGE&#xA;#endif&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-05-28T13:58:04.303" LastActivityDate="2020-05-28T13:58:04.303" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13750" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13751" CreationDate="2020-05-26T01:12:58.340" Score="0" ViewCount="237" Body="&lt;p&gt;The thermistor of the hotend of my printer broke, at the moment I have no way to replace it, due to the global situation with the virus.&#xA;In my hands I have one of these &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.mpja.com/download/rex-c100.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;industrial PIDs&lt;/a&gt; which is Temperature controller+K-type couple+SSR.&#xA;Is there a way to disable the PID in Marlin and start printing manually when the PID reaches the desired temperature? I just need it for PLA right now.&#xA;This way I can use the printer at least until I can replace the thermistor&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13361" LastActivityDate="2020-05-26T03:59:59.303" Title="Disable Marlin PID, and start print manual" Tags="|marlin|thermistor|pid|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13751" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13750" CreationDate="2020-05-26T03:59:59.303" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can edit the temperature control commands out of your gcode, or just tell your slicer to omit them, typically by setting temperature to 0. Then, as you suggested, start the print manually once your industrial PID tells you it's at-temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2020-05-26T03:59:59.303" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13752" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13753" CreationDate="2020-05-26T04:01:31.273" Score="3" ViewCount="8729" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to be able to control my FLSUN QQ over Wi-Fi and don't have OctoPrint or a Raspberry Pi to run it on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10422" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-11-21T00:56:40.300" LastActivityDate="2022-05-09T16:56:52.773" Title="How can I print to my FLSUN QQ over Wi-Fi?" Tags="|wi-fi|flsun-qq|mks|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13753" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13752" CreationDate="2020-05-26T04:01:31.273" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Assuming you use Ultimaker Cura to slice, there is a MKS plugin that allows connecting to the MKS WiFi module that comes with the QQ. Just follow these steps:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Install the MKS WiFi Plugin&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Open Cura&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Click &quot;Marketplace&quot; in top right&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Select &quot;Plugins&quot;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Scroll down to find the &quot;MKS WiFi Plugin&quot;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Click on the plugin.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Click &quot;Install&quot;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Restart Cura (quit and reopen)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Configure WiFi&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Turn on your QQ&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tap Settings&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tap WiFi&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Enable WiFi&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Note the IP address and network name&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Connect your computer to the printers network&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Open your browser&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;type the IP address of your printer into the address bar&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;hit enter&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Scroll down to &quot;WIFI Configuration&quot;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Select STA&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Enter your home network SSID into the field labeled &quot;WIFI&quot;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Enter the password into the field labeled &quot;KEY&quot;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Click configure and reboot&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Setup your printer in Cura&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Open Cura&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Open settings &gt; Printer &gt; Manage Printers...&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Click &quot;MKS Wifi&quot;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Click &quot;Add&quot;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Enter the new IP address of your printer (can be found by opening WiFi settings on the printer)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Click Ok&#xA;7, Click connect.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now you should be connected to your printer. After slicing you should have the option to &quot;Print over FLSUN...&quot; In the Monitor interface you should have some other options such as sending commands to the printer, and printing any files already on the SD card, as well as uploading gcode files to the SD card. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Happy Printing&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10422" LastEditorUserId="10422" LastEditDate="2020-05-26T04:36:21.560" LastActivityDate="2020-05-26T04:36:21.560" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13757" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-05-26T14:24:18.883" Score="0" ViewCount="232" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update: if i press the button &quot;Home&quot; it will correctly posizionate the nozzle above the printing bed, with a gap wide enough to insert a sheet of paper between the nozzle and the surface.&#xA;But, and here's the strange thing, if i move the printing bed the z axis motor will rotate causing the nozzle to get too close to the surface, scratching it.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I recently bought my first 3D printer, a Monoprice MP10 Mini. Unfortunately not a nice choice so far.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I calibrated the printer 3 times and after every print the Z axis seems to be completely off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a consequence, it scratched the printing bed many times. &#xA;On top of that it seems I can't get a decent print anymore, I don't know how I can describe this problem, so just look at the pictures:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zZR0o.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zZR0o.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/e454Z.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/e454Z.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21344" LastEditorUserId="2338" LastEditDate="2020-06-08T19:32:43.977" LastActivityDate="2020-06-08T19:32:43.977" Title="Monoprice MP10 Mini, can't get a decent print" Tags="|z-axis|bed-leveling|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13758" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10288" CreationDate="2020-05-26T16:29:35.913" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just made an account to point out that you will scorch your PTFE tube if you listen to anyone here telling you to print at 250+ C. I have done this, it is a bad idea without an all metal hotend. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not a lot of dumb things on here will actually give you cancer, but cooking your PTFE-liner will.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21345" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2020-05-26T18:36:57.460" LastActivityDate="2020-05-26T18:36:57.460" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13761" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-05-27T08:10:45.413" Score="1" ViewCount="325" Body="&lt;p&gt;Recently I had an issue with my heating cartridge, and I decided to change it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For my Anet A8, I needed a &lt;strong&gt;12&amp;nbsp;V 40&amp;nbsp;W&lt;/strong&gt; one. I ordered it but I received a &lt;strong&gt;15&amp;nbsp;mm length&lt;/strong&gt; instead of &lt;strong&gt;20&amp;nbsp;mm length&lt;/strong&gt; heater element, but as the characteristics where the same I thought that it should not be an issue!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I finally tried it, it was not able to reach the commanded temperature. It's like &lt;strong&gt;175&amp;nbsp;°C&lt;/strong&gt; instead of &lt;strong&gt;195&amp;nbsp;°C&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't understand why it's harder for the newer heating cartridge to reach the commanded temperature, is the length important even if it's the same power (12&amp;nbsp;V and 40&amp;nbsp;W) ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21350" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-05-27T11:35:40.087" LastActivityDate="2020-06-26T15:03:20.333" Title="Issue with the new heating cartridge of my 3D printer" Tags="|hotend|anet-a8|heat-management|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13762" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13761" CreationDate="2020-05-27T14:46:05.567" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If it is 40&amp;nbsp;W then it shouldn't matter what length it is. Note that the heater cartridge just contains a Nickel-Chrome wire-resistor (see image below for the construction), this resistor gives its heat to the metallic shell, the length of that shell shouldn't matter, it usually contains heat free/colder zones at the tip and root. Even if it is a 30&amp;nbsp;W heater cartridge it should be able to get to temperature, it would just take longer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it is a 24&amp;nbsp;V, 40&amp;nbsp;W cartridge, operating at 12&amp;nbsp;V, then the effective power would be &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$40[V] \times \frac{12[V]^2}{24[V]^2}=10 [W]$&lt;/span&gt;. This might be too low to reach the temperature. It is best to check the resistance of the heater element with a multitester; it should be about 4 &amp;ohm; for a 12&amp;nbsp;V heater cartridge and about 14 &amp;ohm; for a 24&amp;nbsp;V heater cartridge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZQ3Ak.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZQ3Ak.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2020-05-27T14:46:05.567" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13767" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13768" CreationDate="2020-05-28T10:58:44.477" Score="0" ViewCount="603" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there any DRM or license management solution for 3D printing? I'm looking for something, that would help me limit the number of prints someone can make from my projects. Basically, I would like to sell the &quot;right to make no more than X copies&quot; of my design. I don't expect it to be bullet-proof (like Widevine L1 for video), but it should at least help me with license management.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21368" LastActivityDate="2020-05-28T14:04:49.030" Title="DRM or license management solution for 3D printing" Tags="|file-formats|legal|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13768" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13767" CreationDate="2020-05-28T13:20:36.013" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Good luck with that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Issues you will face:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;using a G-code editor (or built-in printer software) to create multiple copies of the object in a single print session&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;user writing the printer file to an SD card, then block-copying the SD card&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;defining a &quot;print&quot;. Specifically:&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;is #2 another functional copy of the object, or did #1 fail? Failed prints happen a lot.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;is #3 another functional copy of the object, or was #2 damaged in post-processing? Like removing supports or left it in the acetone 5 seconds too long and it's now a blob.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;is #4 another functional copy of the object, or was #3 tossed because the guy running the printer grabbed the wrong spool and made a perfectly good print in the perfectly wrong material/colour.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;is #5 another functional copy of the object, or was #4 damaged in shipping?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The whole process is one-way. There just isn't a path for anything other than the end user to know what they pulled off the print bed. Unless you make the entire process from design software to printer you won't change that. And good luck selling it, 'cause the user base is rather strongly opposed to that kind of thing. For example, ANY kind of DRM in the product, from printer software to filament, is an immediate no-buy for me. I don't care if you are paying me to take it, I will find an alternative without that particular annoyance. And no, I don't use Microsoft or Adobe products either. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21372" LastActivityDate="2020-05-28T13:20:36.013" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13769" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13767" CreationDate="2020-05-28T14:04:49.030" Score="0" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Generally: No&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's face the obvious problems of the files exchanged and the files used for printing, and then look into why it is a bad idea in the first place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;G-code&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;G-code is in its design a .txt file that contains specific orders for a machine. There is a g-code command that forces the printer to delete the file (&lt;a href=&quot;https://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M030.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;code&gt;M30&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/a&gt;) but that needs the exact file path - and just does nothing if the path is incorrect. One could make a slicer profile, that after printing, deletes the file from the SD-card, but doing so as a user is only useful for one-off jobs and it can be prevented by the user by simply shutting down the printer before the line is triggered.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because .gcode is essentially a .txt without any special features but a custom ending, it can't provide DRM beyond containing a self-delete-after-completion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;STL &amp;amp; OBJ&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;STL and OBJ are the most relevant exchange files. They are open source and not intended to contain any DRM.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Other formats?&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even with a different format, you would need both a &lt;strong&gt;proprietary 3D format&lt;/strong&gt; that can only be read by your DRM-enabled slicer as well as a &lt;strong&gt;proprietary printer file type&lt;/strong&gt; that both contain DRM. However, using a proprietary printer command type means you lock down your file to be only available to your printer family, which in turn makes this printer family &lt;strong&gt;less&lt;/strong&gt; desirable, as it can't work with the standard g-code format.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:29:41.667" LastActivityDate="2020-05-28T14:04:49.030" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13770" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-05-28T18:54:33.687" Score="1" ViewCount="190" Body="&lt;p&gt;What I really want to do is to upgrade hardware components to support 'print recovery' after a power outage. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20739" LastActivityDate="2020-05-29T00:18:58.483" Title="Is it possible to upgrade the CR10-S Pro to CR10-S Pro v2?" Tags="|creality-cr-10|hardware|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13772" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13770" CreationDate="2020-05-29T00:18:58.483" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Print recovery can be achieved by changing the firmware. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is some information on how to do that: &lt;a href=&quot;https://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M413.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Marlin documentation&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, this another stackoverflow post about that: &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10571/how-to-activate-power-loss-recovery-in-marlin&quot;&gt;Stackoverflow Post&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16308" LastActivityDate="2020-05-29T00:18:58.483" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13774" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13775" CreationDate="2020-05-29T04:20:19.543" Score="1" ViewCount="1288" Body="&lt;p&gt;My print area is ~ 17x16 inches (431.8 mm x 406.4 mm = 175,158.4 mm/2). To that end I need four (4) 200mm square heaters, and associated mosfets to run it. Each heater has it's own thermistor and can potentially reach the target temp independently (theoretically they could, since there will be deviations in manufacturing).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My mainboard (the SKR Pro) has support for 4 thermistors; however my solution in this configuration has 5.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I double the size of the printer later this year, I expect that I will need 8 heaters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a solution to control that many heaters such that non of them over shoot their temps, or am I going to have to design and build a dedicated thermal management board to control beds of this nature?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12857" LastActivityDate="2020-05-29T13:54:27.240" Title="How to control 4 thermistors in a heated bed?" Tags="|thermistor|mosfet|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13775" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13774" CreationDate="2020-05-29T08:37:52.263" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can use the Klipper firmware which accepts an &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/KevinOConnor/klipper/blob/da68da7a63322c300acf574f0068bb09b8073916/config/example-extras.cfg#L1267&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;arbitrary number of heaters&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then you can write a Klipper macro which takes one input and applies it to each heated bed (or not, as you prefer).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With Klipper you can also add another Arduino and connect it to klipper as well, in case you don't have enough pins on your board: klipper is &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/KevinOConnor/klipper/blob/da68da7a63322c300acf574f0068bb09b8073916/config/example-multi-mcu.cfg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;not limited&lt;/a&gt; to controlling one single board per printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check the docs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2338" LastEditorUserId="2338" LastEditDate="2020-05-29T13:54:27.240" LastActivityDate="2020-05-29T13:54:27.240" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13776" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14950" CreationDate="2020-05-29T09:20:40.480" Score="2" ViewCount="8236" Body="&lt;p&gt;Recently I have started using a fairly large LCD resin printer. (Yidimu Falcon Pro)&#xA;It has a fairly large 260x160mm perforated and coated steel build plate and a decent dual rail Z axis with a ballscrew. It has a 10&quot; LCD. It prints ChiTuBox files from a USB stick.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have been having a mostly successful print, at good quality, but the bed adhesion keeps haunting me. The best print on this machine had parts curling up from the build plate, however most of the print succeeded.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Two times I have had a very well adhering raft, however delamination occured directly after the raft.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Usually the left side lifts from the bed while the model stays on the build plate.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have tried:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Changing resin (tried Druckwerk Pro D Black and Anycubic Black)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Decreasing lift speed&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Increasing lift distance&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Increasing bottom layer exposure time (from 60 to 180, as suggested by Druckwerck supplier)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Increasing bottom layer count to 9&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Using a large raft&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Using a very large raft&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Using a very small raft&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Leveling build plate without vat in place, using paper&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Leveling build plate while keeping vat in place&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What would be a good next troubleshooting step?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VpZWt.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VpZWt.png&quot; alt=&quot;first layer with small raft&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rRWtS.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rRWtS.png&quot; alt=&quot;first layer with large raft&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CtYl8.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CtYl8.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;model peeling off of print bed&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21385" LastEditorUserId="21385" LastEditDate="2020-05-29T19:01:23.530" LastActivityDate="2022-02-21T23:29:48.613" Title="How to prevent model from peeling off of resin printer buildplate during print?" Tags="|sla|resin|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13777" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-05-29T11:08:02.833" Score="0" ViewCount="1295" Body="&lt;p&gt;I noticed a problem with the combing feature. When I print the first layer with combing set to “not in skin” the extruder does not retract on the first layer. That leads to ugly oozing strings in the visible parts of the prints and also to other problems. E.g. if I want to print a model with tiny circles in the first layer (like for screw holes) the circles get easily pulled away because the extruder is not retracting. At first I thought I’m having sticking problems with the first layer, but I improved that a lot and my prints are perfectly fine now, when I turn off combing completely. In that case the extruder is retracting as desired and the circles stay in place. But turning combing off isn’t always a good option. Sometimes large prints take so much longer and may even have little marks in the visible surfaces where the retractions happened. So I don’t want to turn combing off completely just to be sure the first layer is okay. I saw this behavior with a lot of different models now, so I’m sure, Cura doesn’t always handle the first layer as skin. Setting combing to “not in skin” does definitely not help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are two pictures of the first layer of a print. The first one with combing turned off. You can see the light blue travel lines which mean, the extruder is retracted.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UhNxP.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UhNxP.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;And the second one with combing set to “not in skin” where you can see the dark blue lines. The extruder is not retracted there which produces the described problems.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bWDk7.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bWDk7.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Updated question to answer:&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks a lot for explaining that to me. But I’m afraid the problem still persists. The value of “retraction minimum travel” was at 0.8 mm, which should be fine I assume. Now I’ve set it to zero, just to be sure. The extruder does still not retract as you can see in the picture below. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2cthZ.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2cthZ.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But when I turn combing off completely, the retraction is happening. So I think it is a problem with the definition of “skin” for the combing mode “not in skin”. The bottom layer doesn’t seem to be treated as skin. By the way, I’m running the latest version of Cura of course (4.6.1).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21358" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-06-09T06:27:29.857" LastActivityDate="2020-06-09T06:27:29.857" Title="Deactivate combing in first layer" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|slicing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13778" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13777" CreationDate="2020-05-29T12:10:31.393" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you set it to &lt;code&gt;Not in Skin&lt;/code&gt; it will not comb and as such it will retract. Retraction travel moves are shown as &lt;a href=&quot;https://community.ultimaker.com/topic/27200-print-preview-needs-gcode-preview/?do=findComment&amp;amp;comment=235566&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;light blue lines&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Light blue are retraction moves.  Dark blue are non-retracting moves.  Both types are non-extruding moves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In that respect you would expect that if you set &lt;code&gt;Combing&lt;/code&gt; to &lt;code&gt;Not in Skin&lt;/code&gt;, it will retract and move to the other position:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iPWGQ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Cura combing not in skin&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iPWGQ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Cura combing not in skin&quot; title=&quot;Cura combing not in skin&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you wouldn't comb at all, you would see the same:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3KBrc.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Cura not combing at all&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3KBrc.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Cura not combing at all&quot; title=&quot;Cura not combing at all&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you would comb all layers, so no retractions, we would expect dark blue lines:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UerAG.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Cura combing all layers, so no retractions&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UerAG.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Cura combing all layers, so no retractions&quot; title=&quot;Cura combing all layers, so no retractions&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically, Cura does exactly what it needs to do as seen in the screenshots, I cannot place/reproduce the screenshots in the question. To explain this (as commented below by @R..) another setting or settings may have caused preventing retraction like the &lt;code&gt;Retraction Minimum Travel&lt;/code&gt; (&lt;code&gt;retract_min_travel&lt;/code&gt;) in Cura.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-05-29T21:59:19.557" LastActivityDate="2020-05-29T21:59:19.557" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13782" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4353" CreationDate="2020-05-30T13:55:05.380" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a plain smooth aluminium build plate and it seemed that nearly all problems with adhesion which I had were caused by the &lt;strong&gt;plate not being cleaned well enough with IPA and a paper towel&lt;/strong&gt;, after removing (allegedly) the rests of the previous model with a metal scraper. The new model was peeling off only in places where the old model was previously attached. Now I clean the plate thoroughly, tightly pressing the towel, and there are no more peel-off problems with any typical resin. I have even reduced the typical exposure times of bottom layers because otherwise the model might be attached too strongly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then, there are &lt;strong&gt;special resins&lt;/strong&gt; which can be more difficult to work with. I have one resin for ultra-resistant prints which seems very sensitive to the plate alignment or other inaccuracies at lower temperatures. If I use that resin, I &lt;strong&gt;warm the build plate up to about 35 °C (95 °F)&lt;/strong&gt; with a hairdryer and unless there is not a large alignment problem, the printouts stick very well. The built plate is, however, trapezoidal and rather massive, so that it keeps the temperature for a necessary period of time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The sensitivity to plate alignment leads to another subject: &lt;strong&gt;check the plate angles&lt;/strong&gt; if you didn't do so. The angles should be well adjusted by allowing the plate to rest slightly pressed to the calibration pad with the plate's screw loose before tightening it again and adjusting the height.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19813" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-05-22T19:32:13.333" LastActivityDate="2021-05-22T19:32:13.333" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13788" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13789" CreationDate="2020-05-31T19:55:13.720" Score="0" ViewCount="2846" Body="&lt;p&gt;My calibration at my printer is okay. When I try to move 10&amp;nbsp;mm, it's exactly 10&amp;nbsp;mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I want to know what is my precision for Z-axis.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(&lt;em&gt;not posting the link of the product maybe it's not okay for the platform&lt;/em&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Spec for leadscrew:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lead screw diameter: 8&amp;nbsp;mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Screw pitch: 2&amp;nbsp;mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lead of thread: 8&amp;nbsp;mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jwenH.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jwenH.png&quot; alt=&quot;calculator page&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question; is my gear ratio 4:1 or 1:4? It's giving different results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2727" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-05-31T22:13:39.083" LastActivityDate="2020-05-31T22:36:45.717" Title="Calculating gear ratio for leadscrew" Tags="|calibration|lead-screw|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13789" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13788" CreationDate="2020-05-31T22:36:45.717" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your lead screw nut advances 8&amp;nbsp;mm every complete rotation of 200 full steps, so a single full step would change the height by 8/200 = 0.04&amp;nbsp;mm. This implies you need to set the layer height a multiple of 0.04&amp;nbsp;mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The gear ratio of 4:1 (a reduction) is required to get to your desired 0.01&amp;nbsp;mm layer height, but that is a very uncommon and a too small layer height to use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2020-05-31T22:36:45.717" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13790" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-05-31T23:24:01.353" Score="1" ViewCount="341" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm designing a dual hotend carriage for a HEVO printer that will run in an enclosed heated chamber and I'm evaluating which bed leveling sensor I should use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/79r5D9nCQfM&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;read&lt;/a&gt; that BLTouch and similar sensors stop working in a hot environment, and likewise, capacitive and inductive sensors are affected &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/il9bNWn66BY&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;significantly&lt;/a&gt;. Piezo and strain gauges (force-sensitive resistors) are my choices.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are the differences in practice? Both related to the heated chamber (70+ °C) and in general at room temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2338" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-02-24T22:41:03.440" LastActivityDate="2021-02-24T22:41:03.440" Title="What are pros and cons of piezo Vs strain gauges bed leveling sensors?" Tags="|bed-leveling|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13791" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13736" CreationDate="2020-06-01T03:38:54.543" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Even not extruding anything but just performing travel moves over PETG at 100 mm/s or higher will &lt;em&gt;tear it up and drag material all over the place&lt;/em&gt;. The result is blobs stuck to the nozzle, possibly even stringing, and choppy lines that the next layer will not properly adhere to. PETG simply cannot be printed at these kind of speeds regardless of how fast your hotend can melt it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Turn &lt;strong&gt;all&lt;/strong&gt; speeds, print and travel, down to 40-50 mm/s, then experiment to see if you can increase them at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that if your acceleration is only 1000 mm/s², you're basically never going to reach the desired 150 mm/s anyway, so this probably won't be as much of a slowdown as you expect. Jack the acceleration up as high as your machine can handle and it might still print as fast or faster, but without the blobs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2020-06-01T03:38:54.543" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13792" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-06-01T10:46:01.747" Score="1" ViewCount="1154" Body="&lt;p&gt;What could be the causes of a consistent over-extrusion? I know about these:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;steps/mm of extruder motor set too high&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;larger filament diameter&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;slicer setting: filament diameter - setting it lower makes the printer extrude more filament&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;slicer setting: extrusion multiplier - setting it higher makes the printer extrude more filament&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;unlikely but possible bug in slicer or in printer firmware&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;other: low/high tempereture, too much/little tension on the extruder gears, wrong nozzle fitted,...&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now to my problem. I had to replace the entire hotend assembly on my Prusa i3 MK2,5. Before that, there was no issue. After the replacement and after noticing the issue, I followed the list above. I recalibrated the extruder and in fact I had to increase the steps/mm to match the extruded length.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have printed with different filaments and the issue is still present. Also I checked the diameter of all the filaments which are quite consistent (1,75 +-0,3 measured, 1,75 +- 0,5 given by the manufacturer). All of them were the same brand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also checked slicer settings and the default values that I used before were still there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Slicer and firmware versions are the same as before the issue started occuring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I use the same print settings as before and have checked the extruder gears tensioner multiple times over. The nozzle came with the hotend and according to the E3D dots it is in fact the default 0,4 mm nozzle. However, I cannot check the real diameter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know I can solve this issue by altering the steps/mm or extrusion multiplier because the over-extrusion is consistent. I want to know if there is something I am missing that could cause this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you for your valuable time and suggestions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/s6nXL.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/s6nXL.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Image 1&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2QACd.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2QACd.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Image 2&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16997" LastEditorUserId="16997" LastEditDate="2020-06-06T18:53:19.217" LastActivityDate="2020-07-06T19:06:45.713" Title="Causes of over-extrusion?" Tags="|troubleshooting|extrusion|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13793" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13822" CreationDate="2020-06-01T16:21:41.207" Score="1" ViewCount="2518" Body="&lt;p&gt;After trying to solve this for the whole weekend I've run out of ideas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've fitted an BLTouch to my Ender-3 with an SKR mini e3 V2.0 board, firmware is Marlin 2.0. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My issue is the following: &#xA;when I do autohome (&lt;code&gt;G28&lt;/code&gt;) it uses the Z-Probe (BLTouch) to home (this is expected). &#xA;I then set Z Probe offset to 0 (using &lt;code&gt;M851 Z0&lt;/code&gt;) and move Z down until it the nozzle touches a piece of paper.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I then set the Probe Z offset to whatever value Z is at (&lt;code&gt;M851 Z-4.10&lt;/code&gt;), save the settings to EEPROM and restart the machine. When doing another &lt;code&gt;G28&lt;/code&gt; and moving Z to 0 afterwards the distance is perfectly the same. This is repeatable.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;However when I do &lt;code&gt;G29&lt;/code&gt; it measures the bed to be sitting around -1.9&amp;nbsp;mm, therefore moving Z to 0 will crash the nozzle to the bed. I can change my Probe Z offset have this fitting (&lt;code&gt;M851 Z-2.20&lt;/code&gt;), however then the nozzle sits ~2&amp;nbsp;mm above the bed when doing another &lt;code&gt;G28&lt;/code&gt; with &quot;Bed Leveling&quot; disabled. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All of this is perfectly repeatable, so I think my I've got something off in my Marlin configuration, but can't find anything wrong. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I've tried so far:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Setting the Z offset as default in config -&gt; this yields the same result as saving it to EEPROM  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Reflashing the firmware and resetting the EEPROM -&gt; this didn't change anything  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Connecting the probe as Z-Endstop and as Z-Probe -&gt; after matching the configuration (setting/unsetting Z_MIN_PROBE_USES_Z_MIN_ENDSTOP_PIN) it just gave the same result. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Did anyone encounter this issue before or can give me any idea how to fix this? Any help would be appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: I've just flashed the precompiled stock firmware from the BTT Github and it works. So im quite sure i've got something wrong in my config. But since I can't find the configuration.h for that .bin file, I can't realy compare both&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21422" LastEditorUserId="21422" LastEditDate="2020-06-03T14:35:51.903" LastActivityDate="2020-06-06T16:54:16.190" Title="Different Probe Z offset for G28 and G29" Tags="|marlin|bed-leveling|bltouch|skr-mini-e3|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13794" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13792" CreationDate="2020-06-01T17:05:35.143" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is almost surely the source of your problem:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I had to replace the entire hotend assembly on my Prusa i3 MK2,5. Before that, there was no issue. After the replacement and after noticing the issue, I followed the list above. I recalibrated the extruder and in fact I had to increase the steps/mm to match the extruded length.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is no plausible physical reason for extruder steps/mm to change due to replacement of the hotend. Steps/mm is purely a function of stepper motor steps per rotation and extruder gear radius. Set it back to its original value.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the extruded length is not matching what it should, you have a problem with blockage/flow rate in the hotend restricting advance of the filament and causing the extruder gear to grind without moving it, or the motor to skip steps. Adjusting steps/mm to &quot;compensate&quot; will not fix this; it will just grind/skip more. Instead go back to the beginning, with steps/mm set correctly to the original value, and start looking for the cause of your hotend problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2020-06-01T17:05:35.143" CommentCount="12" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13795" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-06-01T20:41:26.770" Score="1" ViewCount="589" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm printing a object with a pretty sizable overhang.  And the results, after support removal, are pretty ugly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is the print before support removal.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VOWiG.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VOWiG.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;3d print with support&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And here is the final product, sigh.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/z19Oe.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/z19Oe.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally here are my slic3r settings:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Generate Support Material: [✔]&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Overhang threshold: 60°&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Max Layer Count for Supports: 0 layers&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Enforce Support for the First: 0 layers&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Raft layers: 0 layers&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Options for support material and raft&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Contact Z distance: 0.2 mm (detachable)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pattern: pillars&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pattern spacing:  2.5 mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pattern angle: 0°&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Interface Layers: 3 layers&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Interface pattern spacing: 2 mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Support on Build Plate Only: [✔]&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Don't support bridges: [ ]&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The material I'm using is ABS, 230 °C temperature setting.  Layers, Adaptive Slicing, Adaptive quality: 75 %, Match horizontal surfaces.  Vertical shells, 3 perimeters minimum. Horizontal shells, solid layers: top: 3, bottom 3.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a way to improve this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: for anybody interested... these are small disposable spatulas used to place bondo mix onto a flat surface at the bottom of a restricted space, to fill small holes in wood. Its too tight in there to use a normal putty knife.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Some more print settings&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Included here are the speed settings from Slic3r:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5NXO1.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5NXO1.png&quot; alt=&quot;slic3r speed settings&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;G-code analysis&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pDYAz.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pDYAz.png&quot; alt=&quot;gcode analysis&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm wondering why there is such a large gap between the gold colored E shaped interface to the blue spatula handle?  And that makes me wonder, what support material and raft settings should I be using?  Why is that gap so big?  (And I have to go back into SolidWorks and check, but I'm nearly certain that handle is 2 mm wide. That gap to the support is really big.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5014" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-06-28T09:59:27.953" LastActivityDate="2021-07-28T13:01:00.133" Title="Pretty ugly surface remains after using support ramp. Are my slicer settings correct?" Tags="|slic3r|support-structures|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13796" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13795" CreationDate="2020-06-02T02:42:47.427" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not terribly familiar with slic3r, but it looks like you have a setting (possibly a default one) to slow down on printing overhangs. This was a popular &quot;feature&quot; in slicing software (Cura has it I know) but it's &lt;strong&gt;exactly the opposite&lt;/strong&gt; of what you should be doing. When slowing down to print an overhang, the pressure in the nozzle forces the material to keep coming out at the same rate it was coming out until it subsides, and you end up with a big hanging glob of ooze like in your photo.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your printer firmware has linear-advance/pressure-advance functionality, this can mostly be eliminated. But if not (most stock firmware), you need to maintain full speed on overhangs, and might even need to turn up your acceleration limits so that you don't get a significant slowdown just by decelerating to go around the corner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2020-06-02T02:42:47.427" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13797" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13731" CreationDate="2020-06-02T03:31:02.220" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;As manufactuer and 3D printing's fans, I think it's better to use custom tempered glass. It will be nice and flat and stiff. It's also easy to clean and holds up well. You can print on the bare glass with many materials or use various preparations like PVA (glue stick or white glue diluted with water are popular), hairspray, or others.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21424" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-06-02T21:44:48.833" LastActivityDate="2020-06-02T21:44:48.833" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13798" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-06-02T14:55:49.507" Score="0" ViewCount="316" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just made a remix of that &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3905499&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;mod to have a more rigid chassis&lt;/a&gt; for Z axis.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While the parts are a little too heavy to my taste, I did import the STL to FreeCAD and made some adjustments before printing. I noticed weird defects on the layers in the range of a hole. It seems that all the layers belonging to a hole have a small offset, and sometimes the part is literally sliced, like for the layer tangent to the bigger hole (8&amp;nbsp;mm diameter) or the small hole (3&amp;nbsp;mm) on the left of the picture where I can see through the part (!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PzD7F.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PzD7F.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That part was printed without any support on my CR-X and I noticed that the mirrored part printed in a different position has the same defects on the same layers, so I doubt if can be an issue with the hardware. The slicer is Cura 4.6.1. It takes 6 hours, so I did not watched it and cannot tell if the print is making a pause at some points (I suspected the minimal time for a layer setting for the smallest part, but it is probably not the case for the biggest hole).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do you know where these weaks could come from?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is some additional info to help for the diagnosis:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;one proposed explanation is clogging, but i think it is not the case for the following reasons:&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I replaced the stock spool holders by ball bearing mounted holders from &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4208201&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this design&lt;/a&gt; (no issue to print it) and the general setup (after the chassis mod - so is was less rigid to build the part of my question) is now this one, the parts mentioned in my initial post being the ones used to mount the threaded rods so the resistance to extruder steppers is minimal &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/B4kb0.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/B4kb0.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;CR-X&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;as told, I printed for the chassis mod 2 x 2 parts from 2 initial designs, and the mirrored part for left/right sides, the defects are quite identical (same Z layer) in each pair of parts, while the mirrored part was turned is a different rotated position around Z axis, but in different layers between each pair (not the same distance from bed). Here is an example of the top mounts for threaded rods (and I remark there is a slice in the middle of a hole, not tangent to it) &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ct4sE.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ct4sE.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I managed to print additional pieces without issue and with satisfactory aspect and no defect at all e.g a improved part for my coffee machine (right of picture) 110 mm diameter / 12.5 mm height &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/z2HFi.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/z2HFi.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The black parts were printed using basic PLA, 0.15 mm per layer, 190 (or 200 ?) °C for nozzle / 60 °C for bed, 60 mm/s with 8 mm long &amp;amp; 70 mm/s for retraction (and possible Z hop while retracted and during layer change). I am unsure because I did not keep this Cura project but these are my usual settings for now. I have only the machine for a few weeks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also: I have checked the belts but they seem neither too loose nor too tighten, while it is difficult to get an accurate idea of the tension. I would rather suspect a Z axis problem (for the slices), but it is driven by dual square threaded rods.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21259" LastEditorUserId="21259" LastEditDate="2020-06-05T11:59:15.553" LastActivityDate="2020-06-05T11:59:15.553" Title="weird part slices with horizontally printed holes" Tags="|print-quality|ultimaker-cura|slicing|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13799" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13800" CreationDate="2020-06-02T16:53:35.440" Score="1" ViewCount="10064" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently started swapping out my nozzle for different sizes. After a few times using a 0.4&amp;nbsp;mm, then 0.8&amp;nbsp;mm, then back to 0.4&amp;nbsp;mm, I now have this &quot;clumping&quot; going on when printing. The photos are of PLA but this happens with PETG also. Before I started changing nozzles, my prints were perfect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The blue filament is Overture PLA, printing at 45&amp;nbsp;mm/s 210&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C (I lowered the temp to 200&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C and it's still happening).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/C3Jkw.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/C3Jkw.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Z3zFM.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Z3zFM.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Some things I've noticed (which did not exist when my prints were good):&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Melted filament on the rubber piece that covers the underside of the&#xA;extruder. Could something be backing up, melting, and then falling in&#xA;a clump on top of my print?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The bottom metal piece on the extruder is slightly loose. It's the flat piece attached to the main extruder body with two screws. I don't know what it's called, so I couldn't even search for how to tighten it.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;The questions:&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Does this &quot;clumping' have an actual name?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What did I potentially do when swapping nozzles that could have caused this (if that's in fact how it started)?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;How can I fix it?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Update:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The print stopped and I removed the shroud. My train of thought was spot on as I saw a pool of blue PLA inside the housing and on the nozzle. But I still don't know how this happened.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JMlkS.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JMlkS.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3P18b.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3P18b.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20748" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-06-02T21:58:29.953" LastActivityDate="2022-09-20T01:00:56.533" Title="Material &quot;clumping&quot; when printing" Tags="|filament|pla|creality-ender-3|nozzle|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13800" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13799" CreationDate="2020-06-02T19:12:32.803" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;From your initial photos, it looks like the bed level was too high, and there was thereby more material extruded than fit in the space. Even with an &quot;identical&quot; nozzle, the distances involved here are on an order of magnitude (less than 0.1 mm) that you're not going to get identical distance to the bed from one nozzle to another.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Further, as you found out following up, not having the nozzle tightened all the way will affect its height, and allow molten material to exit around the gap. It's always a problem not having your nozzle tightened all the way to make a good seal (I actually had nearly the same problem the first time I ever changed a nozzle), but having the bed too close probably made even more material ooze out at the gap due to backpressure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hopefully fixing these two things gets you back to printing right. It might be some work to clean out any material left in the hotend, especially if it worked its way around into the threads where the nozzle screws in. Be gentle if you have to clean that out further, since it's easy to strip the threads if you use abrasive tools, and then you'll be looking at replacing the heater block.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2020-06-02T19:12:32.803" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13801" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13802" CreationDate="2020-06-03T10:25:43.747" Score="1" ViewCount="460" Body="&lt;p&gt;opposed to what the title of this question might impose, I'm not new to 3d printing itself and have operated more than one printer for years, however, I feel dumb with installing the Thermistor on this new Heated Bed I got from RepRap.me: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.reprap.me/aluminum-heatbed-mk3-400x300.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Aluminum Heatbed MK3 400x300&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The old Mk2b 214x214 Mendel/Prusa heated bed that I have been using for quite a while now has a through-hole in the center, where the thermistor-leads could be fed to from below.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On this new heated bed however, there is a lowering in the very center of the Heated Bed to place the Thermistor in, yet the pads to connect the thermistor leads to right beside it are level with the rest of the Heated bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried using just a tiny amount of SMD solderpaste and just soldering the thermistor leads as flat as possible to the pads, nevertheless, the glass plate on top is not laying flat and stable on the heated bed with the thermistor installed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any suggestions are greatly appreciated on how improve the thermistor-installation onto this heated bed!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21435" LastActivityDate="2020-06-03T13:35:29.027" Title="How is a Thermistor supposed to be installed between Heated Bed and the Glass?" Tags="|heated-bed|thermistor|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13802" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13801" CreationDate="2020-06-03T12:12:59.623" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Try to use a silicone heat conductive pad between heater and glass, where you can make a hole for the sensor. It also helps to improve the contact between aluminium heater and glass, which otherwise may be inhomogeneous (as expected between two quite rigid materials).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They sell them in rolls and you can choose a 1 mm thick one or even 0.5 mm. They are &quot;sticky&quot; but they don't have glue, so you will be able to separate the glass from the pad, even if not so easily as it would be with a clip.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2338" LastEditorUserId="2338" LastEditDate="2020-06-03T13:35:29.027" LastActivityDate="2020-06-03T13:35:29.027" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13805" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-06-03T14:53:38.260" Score="3" ViewCount="1154" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am having issues with my Creality CR-10 S5 running Cura 4.6.1. If I use the Ender-3 G-code, it prints perfect. If I do the exact same print with S5 printer selected, I get garbage prints with lots of burps.&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BsyNn.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BsyNn.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Ender-3 on left / CR-10 S5 on right&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21440" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-01-31T09:23:38.023" LastActivityDate="2021-01-31T09:23:38.023" Title="Over-extrusion on curved surfaces?" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|creality-cr-10|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13807" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13817" CreationDate="2020-06-04T05:55:56.823" Score="-1" ViewCount="280" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an Ender 3 3D printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am having an issue with leveling it, everything I do does not make any change.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The right side of the bed is higher than the left side, that will make me loosening the right side springs completely.&#xA;I’ve worked with this printer before and I know it’s should not be like this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The printer is sitting on a leveled surface.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I have 90&amp;deg; in each of every connection of the stands.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;X-Axis is corresponding to the upper stand.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I’ve replaced the regular bed cover for 4&amp;nbsp;mm ״milky” glass.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I’ve replaced the springs to the stronger ones.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I’ve modify the location of the Z-switch to the lowest corner of the bed.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21447" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-06-05T22:05:42.013" LastActivityDate="2020-06-06T10:00:18.853" Title="Ender 3, unable to level the heating bed" Tags="|creality-ender-3|bed-leveling|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13808" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12226" CreationDate="2020-06-04T15:29:29.147" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The travel speed of 160 mm/s is a big red flag. PETG is not tolerant of a hot nozzle moving over it at high speeds, especially unretracted (combing). The nozzle will drag material in a stuttering pattern, every so often, marring the surface and pulling what it dug up into strings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lower the travel speed to the same as the print speed, and then experiment with whether you can increase it without problems. I would not try going over 80 mm/s and probably not even over 60.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For what it's worth, this &lt;em&gt;sounds like&lt;/em&gt; softened/molten PETG is a non-newtonian fluid, where at low stress (slow moving nozzle pushing/pulling) it deforms gracefully, but at high stress (fast moving nozzle) it strongly resists deformation and has a discontinuous breaking point. A quick Googling turned up this article, &lt;a href=&quot;https://link.springer.com/article/10.1007/s10924-019-01544-6&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Thermal, Rheological and Mechanical Properties of PETG/rPETG Blends&lt;/a&gt;, which might explain what's happening.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2020-06-04T15:29:29.147" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13809" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13819" CreationDate="2020-06-04T20:41:47.253" Score="1" ViewCount="84" Body="&lt;p&gt;Could concentrated sunlight be used to build a metal 3D printer, sintering or melting metal powder?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Related question on physics stack exchange &lt;a href=&quot;https://physics.stackexchange.com/questions/143049/what-temperature-is-achieved-in-focus-point-by-5000-flat-1x1cm-mirrors-onto-a-sa&quot;&gt;https://physics.stackexchange.com/questions/143049/what-temperature-is-achieved-in-focus-point-by-5000-flat-1x1cm-mirrors-onto-a-sa&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21456" LastActivityDate="2020-06-07T10:42:18.360" Title="Sunlight powered metal 3D printer" Tags="|metal-printing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13812" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6938" CreationDate="2020-06-05T15:01:46.110" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here have a posible solution -&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6990/how-to-remove-unwanted-filament-trails-from-sharp-corners&quot;&gt;How to remove unwanted filament trails from sharp corners&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think, that can be a combination of z-hopping and combing-mode in the slicer that you use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21452" LastActivityDate="2020-06-05T15:01:46.110" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13814" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13612" CreationDate="2020-06-05T20:37:38.447" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As @Fernando Balthazar had suggested, the z-offset was wrong. I needed to bring the nozzle and the bed closer together. The printer's default is -0.50 mm, I had to change to -0.78 mm or so to get it to stick. But then I need to reduce set it back to -0.50 or -0.40 during the print to avoid the nozzle banging into the model.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I used 205C for nozzle and 35C for bed and it works great, virtually no warping.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21090" LastActivityDate="2020-06-05T20:37:38.447" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13816" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-06-06T09:32:48.787" Score="2" ViewCount="157" Body="&lt;p&gt;Rep-Rap project &lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/wiki/G-code&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;wiki&lt;/a&gt; contains information about different G-Code dialects for FFF/FDM 3D printers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I googled but couldn't find if there were any attempts in DIY community to standardize existing dialects more or less?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, &lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#M115:_Get_Firmware_Version_and_Capabilities&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;M115&lt;/a&gt; command should return meta-information about firmware version and capabilities. But almost each popular firmware doing it in a slightly different way: sometimes they are just using different separators, sometimes constants are structurally different as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The result (as I see it) is some standard subset of G-Code commands that can be extended with dialects from different firmware providers. Probably something similar (but better) to what's is SQL world.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any major cons for doing this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13310" LastActivityDate="2020-06-08T13:26:19.917" Title="Are there attempts to standardize G-code for FFF/FDM printers?" Tags="|g-code|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13817" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13807" CreationDate="2020-06-06T10:00:18.853" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;When you do the homing and then do the leveling how much thread you have left that passes the tuning wheel? Verify this on all the four wheels. If you have no thread left then you may consider to lower the Z end-stop.&#xA;Check also the Y gantry to see if it is parallel to the base, and make adjustments if needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21469" LastActivityDate="2020-06-06T10:00:18.853" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13818" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13816" CreationDate="2020-06-06T10:49:23.317" Score="7" Body="&lt;h2&gt;G-Code Is RS-274/NGC&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is no need to attempt to standardize G-Code, the G-code itself &lt;strong&gt;already is&lt;/strong&gt; standardized: it is the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.nist.gov/publications/nist-rs274ngc-interpreter-version-3?pub_id=823374&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;NIST RS274/NGC&lt;/a&gt;, or often short AIN RS-274 and was not designed for just FDM printers but any moving tool. Power lathes, CNC and laser cutters all can run on RS-274! G0 and G1 always move, G28 is always the homing procedure and so on. To show how the RS-274 standard evolved over time, check out an older variant of the document, the &lt;a href=&quot;https://nvlpubs.nist.gov/nistpubs/Legacy/IR/nistir5970.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;NISTIR 597 Canonical Machining Commands&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Implementation is not standardized!&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, due to the design of a given machine, the exact procedure for these commands has to be different for different designs. For example in a carthesian, prusa style printer Homing is usually moving negatively in X, Y and Z, in that order, one after another. But in a Delta Printer, that would most likely get your printhead to an illegal position: the printhead would first be moved out of the print volume and then never hit any endstop as those are mounted at the top of the printer. Instead, all axis on a delta are moving up simultaneous on homing, stopping each axis as they hit their endstop at the top, then the whole setup moves down to the printbed in unison. On a mill, lathe or router, the G28 operation usually starts by backing the tool away from the work volume, then moving to the 0 and only then moving the tool back into the work area to avoid fixtures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;G &amp;amp; M-command gaps&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another caveat is, that the standardization via the NIST document only encompasses codes G0 to G99 and M0 to M49 - with gaps. Which brings us to the code block M - Miscellaneous. It is not fully defined in the document. &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/G-code#List_of_M-codes_commonly_found_on_FANUC_and_similarly_designed_controls_for_milling_and_turning&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;FANUC&lt;/a&gt; setup uses a few more common M-commands but might contain more. The &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.cnccookbook.com/g-code-m-code-reference-list-cnc-mills/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;CNCcookbook&lt;/a&gt; has only 16 common M-commands, none of them a reporting one. &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.autodesk.com/products/fusion-360/blog/cnc-programming-fundamentals-g-code/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Autodesk&lt;/a&gt; declares even only 11 M-block commands most common: M0 to M9 and M30. Of these the coolant related ones are usually irrelevant for FDM.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;M115&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;M115 and M503 are &lt;em&gt;reporting&lt;/em&gt; functions outside of the areas that were pretty much defined by the norming agency and thus have cropped up as development needed them until they formed undefined de-facto industry standards. This means that the standard itself does not contain them, but everybody and bob know that these commands are meant to report firmware and report settings respectively because some popular machines started with it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These two commands are to inform a programmer what is the brains of the machine and settings, and as such, they are also subject to the style guide of the programming institution - the norm document does &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; contain a style guide, leaving it free for any implementation to chose style. A working example is &lt;a href=&quot;https://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M115.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Marlin's M115&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, there are reasons why a programmer might disable M115 but keep M503: Industrial machines, especially such with maintenance contracts, usually don't allow users to access the firmware in some ways to on one hand keep them out from messing with the machine too much and on the other make sure that only a licensed technician can access some reporting functions by using proprietary commands. M503 on the other hand reports on the current status of settings that might be changed by the user or their service technician to account for different print requirements.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:29:41.667" LastActivityDate="2020-06-08T13:26:19.917" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13819" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13809" CreationDate="2020-06-06T11:51:53.397" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Let's start with the obvious: this printer would need to be really big. Not because of a large print volume, but because it needs to collect a lot of sunlight or needs a really big focussing array. The linked question states that the array there, about 0.6 m² large, has roundabout 600 W of power to focus on that one point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Power draw needs&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;What powers are we dealing with?&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A typical laser cutter uses a laser tube that at least 20 W for thin material and up to 300 W for thicker material. But we need to weld steel, so we need to be roughly equivalent to a cutting laser for the same material. We are not talking mere hundreds of watts, we are talking an &lt;a href=&quot;https://pentalaser.com/en/view/88.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;industrial 2000 to 20000 W&lt;/a&gt; in a laser of less than a millimeter in diameter. Why do I say the later? Well, power need scales with the area, which scales with the square of the radius.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's use a ballpark, a nice round 10000 W Laser with a somewhat large 1 mm² crossection. We're talking about the ballpark of 100 Gigawatt per square meter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$L=P/A=\frac{10000\ \text W}{0,001\times 0.001\ \text m^2}=10^{10}\frac{\text W}{\text m^2}$&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Solar power harvester size&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Luckily, we don't need to illuminate a whole square meter, so we only need some 10 Kilowatts of sunlight for our application. But we need this number to calculate how much sunlight we need to &lt;em&gt;harvest&lt;/em&gt; in our smelting machine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the stratosphere, Earth gets about 1400 W/m², and on a sunny day, about 1 kW/m² makes it to the surface, we call this the solar constant &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$S$&lt;/span&gt;. Now, if we compare the ballparks, we get to quickly see the ballpark size of our machine:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$P/S=A=\frac{10 \text{ kW}}{1 \frac {\text{kW}} {\text m^2}} = 10\ \text m^2$&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;10 square meters of harvesting area gets us the same power. Incidentally, this scales linearly with the item discussed in the linked question, as that one already uses square meters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Sizing down&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But 10 square meters of mirrors into a focal point and then lenses to a focal point is huge, can we make it smaller? And to that I must say &lt;em&gt;somewhat&lt;/em&gt;. First of all, we could get our focal point smaller: We need to get 10 Gigawatt per square meter for our &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$L$&lt;/span&gt;, but we can turn two screws here: what if we get from 1 mm² to only 0.1 mm²?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$P=L*A=10^{10}*(0.0001\times 0.0001)\ \text W=100 W$&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;100 Watts focussed on 0.1 mm² is a sixth of the power that array can deliver, so totally feasible in terms of power, as long as you can achieve such a small focal point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Conclusion&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, with a focussing array good enough or a mirror array large enough you could achieve the powers needed to melt metals on a spot focus. Note though, that you need to have a really good focus setup that creates pretty much a solar-powered laser, which means that such a machine will be extremely expensive due to the high precision machinery needed for that - and that this focusing aperture will be most likely the largest part of your machine. We're talking building-size scale. I'd be cheaper and easier to just put lots of solar panels onto the roof of the building you run a conventional metal 3D printer in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:29:41.667" LastActivityDate="2020-06-07T10:42:18.360" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13820" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13712" CreationDate="2020-06-06T12:59:33.427" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Had this problem on my second print.  The nozzle was too close to the bed. The only way I got it all off was to heat the bed. Then the PLA became a bit softer and came off pretty fast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21470" LastActivityDate="2020-06-06T12:59:33.427" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13821" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14569" CreationDate="2020-06-06T13:17:22.703" Score="2" ViewCount="579" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have had issues with printing on my i3 MK3, especially when it came to the first layer. In March 2020, I have installed the Prusa Mesh Leveling plugin for Octoprint. With that plugin and a Nylock nut modification, I was able to reduce the bed variance from 0.6 mm down to 0.014 mm and prints were great. That took about 25 rounds of calibration and I didn't have any issues with the graphics not updating.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Fo7Ag.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Fo7Ag.png&quot; alt=&quot;Mesh bed levelling on March 2020&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Shortly after that, my filament sensor stopped working and I ordered a replacement, which I installed yesterday. But today, my prints are bad again, especially the first layer. So I thought I would simply run through the calibration and mesh bed leveling again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, I turned the screws in the wrong direction, so the result became worse and I needed several attempts until the results went into the correct direction. I'm currently at ~1.0 mm bed variance, which is very bad and I need to continue leveling the bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lR588.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lR588.png&quot; alt=&quot;Bed variance currently&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, the graphics does not update any longer. It always shows the same picture.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also noticed some different behavior of the mesh bed levelling procedure. Usually, after running the mesh bed levelling, the printer needs some time (~5 secs) before it will react to other commands like a move on the Z axis. I used the following technique to find out when to reload the graphics:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;run mesh bed levelling&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;tell the printer to move up 10 mm on the Z axis&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;as soon as the print head moves up, it was possible to reload the graphics&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, the print head moves up immediately after the mesh bed levelling, without the ~5 secs delay and the graphics does not update.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have already tried:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;click the &amp;quot;reload heat map&amp;quot; button&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;run mesh bed leveling again&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;restarting Octoprint&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;resetting the printer using the X button&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;looking for disk space via SSH&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;pi@octopi:~ $ df -h&#xA;Filesystem      Size  Used Avail Use% Mounted on&#xA;/dev/root       7.3G  1.9G  5.1G  27% /&#xA;devtmpfs        182M     0  182M   0% /dev&#xA;tmpfs           186M     0  186M   0% /dev/shm&#xA;tmpfs           186M  2.7M  183M   2% /run&#xA;tmpfs           5.0M  4.0K  5.0M   1% /run/lock&#xA;tmpfs           186M     0  186M   0% /sys/fs/cgroup&#xA;/dev/mmcblk0p1   42M   21M   21M  51% /boot&#xA;tmpfs            38M     0   38M   0% /run/user/1000&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the log file (&lt;code&gt;octoprint.log&lt;/code&gt;) with output level set to &lt;code&gt;DEBUG&lt;/code&gt;, I could see an entry:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;2020-06-06 12:19:52,261 - octoprint.plugins.PrusaMeshMap - INFO - Generating heatmap&#xA;2020-06-06 12:19:52,288 - py.warnings - WARNING - &#xA;    /home/pi/oprint/local/lib/python2.7/site-packages/matplotlib/pyplot.py:522:&#xA;    RuntimeWarning: More than 20 figures have been opened. &#xA;    Figures created through the pyplot interface (`matplotlib.pyplot.figure`) are&#xA;    retained until explicitly closed and may consume too much memory. &#xA;    (To control this warning, see the rcParam `figure.max_open_warning`).&#xA;    max_open_warning, RuntimeWarning)&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you can see, this was at 12:19. The last graphics I saw is from 12:37.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The logs also contain a message on 12:40:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;2020-06-06 12:40:39,262 - octoprint.util.comm - ERROR - Error while processing hook PrusaMeshMap:&#xA;Traceback (most recent call last):&#xA;&#xA;  File &amp;quot;/home/pi/oprint/local/lib/python2.7/site-packages/octoprint/util/comm.py&amp;quot;, line 2849, in _readline&#xA;    ret = hook(self, ret)&#xA;  File &amp;quot;/home/pi/oprint/local/lib/python2.7/site-packages/octoprint_PrusaMeshMap/__init__.py&amp;quot;, line 90, in mesh_level_check&#xA;    self.mesh_level_generate()&#xA;  File &amp;quot;/home/pi/oprint/local/lib/python2.7/site-packages/octoprint_PrusaMeshMap/__init__.py&amp;quot;, line 236, in mesh_level_generate&#xA;    fig.savefig(self.get_asset_folder() + '/img/heatmap.png', bbox_inches=&amp;quot;tight&amp;quot;)&#xA;[...]&#xA;  File &amp;quot;/home/pi/oprint/local/lib/python2.7/site-packages/matplotlib/image.py&amp;quot;, line 512, in _make_image&#xA;    output = self.to_rgba(output, bytes=True, norm=False)&#xA;  File &amp;quot;/home/pi/oprint/local/lib/python2.7/site-packages/matplotlib/cm.py&amp;quot;, line 259, in to_rgba&#xA;    xx = (xx * 255).astype(np.uint8)&#xA;MemoryError&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On 12:46 I rebooted the system&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;2020-06-06 12:46:08,761 - octoprint.server.api.system - INFO - Performing command for core:reboot: sudo shutdown -r now&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;but of course that graphics is still missing and the last available graphics is the one from 12:37. So, after the reboot one needs to run the mesh bed leveling again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Still, no luck...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;OctoPrint version is 1.4.0, OctoPi version 0.15.0PE, Prusameshmap Plugin: 0.3.0. As far as I can tell, that's the latest version available.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What can I do to make mesh bed leveling work again?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1570" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-10-12T06:15:06.220" LastActivityDate="2020-10-12T11:10:41.377" Title="Mesh bed levelling does not update any more after MemoryError" Tags="|prusa-i3|bed-leveling|octoprint|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13822" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13793" CreationDate="2020-06-06T15:02:01.260" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm answering my own question here. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Issue was that I set &lt;code&gt;Z_MIN_POS&lt;/code&gt; to -2.0 I guess these 2&amp;nbsp;mm were subtracted from &lt;code&gt;G28&lt;/code&gt; but not from &lt;code&gt;G29&lt;/code&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know wether this is expected behaviour but changing &lt;code&gt;Z_MIN_POS&lt;/code&gt; back to 0 fixed the issue for me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21422" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-06-06T16:54:16.190" LastActivityDate="2020-06-06T16:54:16.190" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13825" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13833" CreationDate="2020-06-07T21:32:37.180" Score="3" ViewCount="552" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently heard that the 3D printing lab at my college can do fused-deposition with ABS and PLA, but I would like to use TPU, for greater flexibility.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it possible to feed a TPU filament into the same machine built for ABS/PLA? Or is there no difference? Assume the diameters of the filaments are the same.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16299" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2020-06-08T16:24:48.460" LastActivityDate="2020-06-08T18:20:06.723" Title="Can any filament be used in with any 3D printer?" Tags="|print-material|tpu|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13826" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13825" CreationDate="2020-06-07T21:52:11.433" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most printers can print most filaments. However, some more exotic filaments are not suitable for all printers:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;To print a flexible filament such as TPU, the filament path from the extruder needs to be well-constrained. A bowden extruder is generally less good at handling flexible filaments than a direct extruder. Some direct extruders without a well-constrained filament path may also be unsuitable.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;A printer without a heated bed won't be able to print filaments that tend to warp such as ABS.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;A printer without a (heated) enclosure won't be able to print filaments that tend to warp &lt;em&gt;a lot&lt;/em&gt; such as polycarbonate&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;A printer with a PTFE-lined hotend won't be able to print filaments that require higher temperatures. PETG is at the upper end of what can be (safely) printed with a PTFE-lined hotend, while filaments such as polycarbonate require temperatures well outside the usable range.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;A printer with a standard brass nozzle won't be able to print (not long, anyways) abrasive filaments such as glow-in-the-dark.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is likely the printer at your lab will be able to handle TPU just fine. If it is a bowden printer then you might have some difficulty printing but it might still work depending on exactly how soft the filament is and how well-constrained the filament path.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastEditorUserId="26" LastEditDate="2020-06-08T06:53:43.640" LastActivityDate="2020-06-08T06:53:43.640" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13827" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13825" CreationDate="2020-06-08T04:38:31.350" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Regarding your particular question about TPU, any machine that can print PLA should be able to print TPU. Bed temperature is even less of an issue, and the needed nozzle temperature is roughly the same. The only potential difficulty is that, if the entire path from the extruder gear to the hotend isn't tightly confined, the soft filament can kink rather than advancing properly. However, this isn't a show-stopper - it can almost always be solved with printable upgrades to constrain the path.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your printer has a bowden extruder, you have to go pretty slow with TPU because there's so much room for the filament to compress between the extruder gear and the nozzle, making the response to extruder advancement and retraction lagged. But this can largely be solved by upgrading the printer's firmware to one with &quot;linear advance&quot; or &quot;pressure advance&quot; feature that compensates. I can print TPU very well at 30 mm/s on my Ender 3 with firmware upgraded to Marlin 2.0, with a whopping 5.0 as the linear advance spring constant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2020-06-08T04:38:31.350" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13828" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-06-08T05:19:49.640" Score="0" ViewCount="272" Body="&lt;p&gt;My printer prints stuff okay but its all squished and much shorter than the model, My z Axis Esteps is fine I checked for loose wires and overheating but I can't figure it out. My Temp is 195, .15 Layer Height, PLA, Marlin Firmware&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21491" LastActivityDate="2020-06-08T06:40:09.980" Title="Prints are Squished" Tags="|marlin|pla|tronxy-x1|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13829" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13831" CreationDate="2020-06-08T08:32:49.793" Score="2" ViewCount="807" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am building an HEVO printer with a 300x300 build plate and the project includes two T8 lead screws, lead 8 mm (&quot;Tr8x8(p2)&quot;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I read that such long lead may worsen backlash issues, so anti-backlash bolts are often used. They however increase the torque required to drive the build platform (quite important, since 8 mm lead involves using microstepping for fine adjustments) and they also reduce the usable vertical travel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since the build plate has already a significant weight (2020 frame, 2x 2 mm aluminium plates, 4 mm borosilicate bed, 8 linear bearings, heater), I wonder what is an approximate weight threshold to decide for using the anti-backlash or to skip it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2338" LastEditorUserId="2338" LastEditDate="2020-06-08T08:46:20.257" LastActivityDate="2020-06-08T16:55:10.723" Title="When to use an anti-backlash bolt for a Z drive gear?" Tags="|diy-3d-printer|build-plate|lead-screw|drive-gear|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13830" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10314" CreationDate="2020-06-08T08:44:03.807" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I expect a T8 with 8 mm pitch to be cheaper (in large quantities) than a T8 with 2 mm pitch (which also exists). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think that if you have T8x8 you can use 4 milling heads (the screw has 4 starts) and therefore cut away the material faster. With a T8x2 mm you can use only a milling head at time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is speculation, since my local supplier prices them the same.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, microstepping is always used, especially if bed leveling is active, therefore you get at least 4x the resolution you think: 10 um per microstep. More than 4x microstepping may not be reliable, given the reduced additional torque provided by the motor and the higher torque required by a T8x8 mm lead screw (higher angle of attack, or what is that called).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Summary: it may be cheaper, and surely provides enough accuracy for the printers which use them. It's 4x faster than a T8x2 mm lead screw and 8x faster than a M8 threaded rod. This affects print times too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2338" LastActivityDate="2020-06-08T08:44:03.807" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13831" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13829" CreationDate="2020-06-08T13:14:39.503" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;First of all, let's look at the geometry: We have a static XY and changing Z on our build plate. This mitigates several problems we might have faced in a different setup, mainly that our lead screw has loads changing from one face to the other: all loads always go into &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$-Z$&lt;/span&gt;, so the lower surface of the Trapezoidal threads in the brass nut of the bed carrier and the upper surface of the screw will always rub against each other.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, let's talk about your lead. Tr8x8(p2) is not a Metric ISO-Trapezoidal pattern that is &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.engineersedge.com/hardware/iso-metric-trapezoidal-threads1.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;commonly recognized&lt;/a&gt; - the only 8 mm diameter one in that standard is Tr8x1.5, very flat and very well suited for putting high loads onto it because there are several engagement surfaces in the nut and a low pitch angle - the thread only has about a 5° (+-1°)to the horizontal. Assuming a 15 mm nut, that's 10 times the projected engagement surface for a total area of about 214 mm².&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A Tr8x8 is a very common oddball as in, it's not in the metric tables but available everywhere. It is &lt;em&gt;considerably&lt;/em&gt; steeper, and with a 16 mm nut (for easier calculation) would result in 2 times the projected surfaceof a single engagement per thread. But that's only a projected area of 42.8 mm² per thread - about 1/5th of the Tr8x1.5, which correlates directly into that much less friction, because the friction is linear with the surface, which is linear to the length of the nut.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Taking an &quot;intermediary&quot; TR8x4 gets us about 1/2.5th of the Tr8.1.5's holding power per thread at the cost of half of the speed. From a physical standpoint, I'd  take this one, also increasing the precision of the Z-movement by a factor of 2 in comparison to the Tr8x8.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Tradeoffs&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Generally speaking, we have a tradeoff here:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pitch is proportional to the movement speed&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;double the pitch and you move twice as fast&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pitch is anti-proportional to holding power/torque and Z-position accuracy&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;half the pitch gives twice the torque and the Z-position error is in average reduced by half&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;holding power is proportional to the diameter of the rod and the number of threads engaging with the nut&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Z-position accuracy is anti-proportional to the effective step-size of the motor &#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Z-position accuracy can be increased by using a reduction gearset: a 2:1 reduction gear halves the step-size and doubles the torque at the price of halving the movement speed. However, it can and will introduce slop and backlash.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Due to the geometry, the slop in the nut should not be an issue, as the relevant engagement surfaces never change. Further, the heavier the bed, the fewer problems you'll have with fast movements, as gravity will prevent the bed from going &quot;airborne&quot; at the end of travel towards the printhead. Travel away from the printhead, as it will do during printing, should never experience such.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-06-08T16:55:10.723" LastActivityDate="2020-06-08T16:55:10.723" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13833" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13825" CreationDate="2020-06-08T16:24:06.150" Score="3" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it possible to feed a TPU filament into the same machine built for ABS/PLA? Or is there no difference? Assume the diameters of the filaments are the same.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The question is not what the machine is &lt;em&gt;built for&lt;/em&gt; but &lt;em&gt;how&lt;/em&gt; it is built. Let's break stuff down some into why some filaments work better than others and the challenges with them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Temperature range&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first obstacle is the temperature range of the printer. For example, if your printer's Extruder can't get over 220 °C, you can't print ABS. You need to make sure your printer can match your intended filament's temperature range.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;TPU usually prints around between the same temperatures for PLA and ABS, so it should work from that range.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Heated Bed&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most Filaments work better with a heated bed, but some are almost impossible to be printed without. For TPU, a heated bed should be used but is not absolutely mandatory.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Heated Chamber&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some filaments can't be printed without a heated chamber, others like ABS highly benefit from it. TPU is ambivalent on this as far as I know.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Extruder Setup&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's basically 3 extruder setups. Pellet extruders are super rare, so we don't concern about them. The other two are Direct Drive and Bowden. In a Direct Drive, the extruder motor is right over the hotend, and pushes the filament directly into it. In a Bowden setup, the hotend and the extruder motor are connected via a Bowden tube. Both have benefits and drawbacks:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A Bowden makes for a lighter carriage, leading to faster printing speeds. A Direct Drive has much less trouble with elastic filaments and can do much better with retraction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;TPU is one of the filaments that works much better with Direct Drive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Other considerations&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some Print services do print in machines set up for one filament type and that only, because it prevents cross-contamination of the nozzles, especially when a high-temperature print material remains in it when a low-temperature print comes next. Having for example a little bit of ABS left in a printer that runs PLA next can lead to very very extreme clogging.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:29:41.667" LastActivityDate="2020-06-08T18:20:06.723" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13834" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10314" CreationDate="2020-06-08T17:09:11.497" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Direct-drive, 8mm-pitch Z-axis screws is a very common configuration. Although it results in low z-axis resolution, apparently it works well enough for most FFF applications.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Like you, I noticed this curious design as soon as I got into 3D printing. Based on normal design principles, the resolution of the Z-axis of most printers is technically inadequate or barely adequate, at least based on normal principles from CNC machines and other motion applications (my background is semiconductor industry robots). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Printers cut a lot of corners for cost reasons. That's why they cost hundreds of dollars instead of many thousands of dollars like CNC machines. My printer, like many others, has 8mm-pitch screws and no gear reduction. Sticking an 8mm-pitch lead-screw directly onto a stepper is simply a cheap and easy design. You could get better resolution with a shallower-pitch leadscrew, or with stepper gearboxes, or with belt-and-pulley reduction. But it would add cost and complexity, and modern stepper drivers help to band-aid the low mechanical resolution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The divisibility of the layer heights into stepper motor revolutions is not that big of a problem in the context. Z-axis resolution is just plain low, and evenly-dividable layers may or may not make an actual improvement. I think if you are concerned about Z-axis resolution then increasing the mechanical resolution should be a far higher priority than worrying about even divisibility. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It still sort of bothers me that the Z-axis resolution is so low. But we see that printers like mine tend to work fine with the 8mm leadscrews, even in vase mode, and even with auto-bed-leveling. And I never pay attention to &quot;magic&quot; z-axis numbers, either. I'm sure the Trinamic stepper drivers are a big part of the reason it works so well. Sure, I could buy 2mm-pitch lead-screws and nuts to increase my Z-axis resolution by 4X. Or, I could install planetary reducers to increase it 10X. But the problem I would be solving is apparently pretty minor in practice.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also: most of these 8mm-pitch screws are 4-start threads. The reason the pitch is 8mm is partly to do with the lead-angle of the threads, and partly to do with the fact that it's a 4-start thread. The more starts a thread has, the higher the effective pitch; other things being equal, a 2-start thread will have twice the pitch, and a 4-start thread will have 4 times the pitch. So why use multi-start threads, if it reduces resolution? Technically, multi-start threads are better for lead-screw applications because they reduce binding forces. Single-start threads, like the normal UNC threads, are unbalanced, and they &quot;push&quot; from only one part of the diameter, so the nut tends to tilt and bind when loaded axially. This is normally fine for bolts which need to wedge in order to stay tight, but it adds friction and play when operating as a lead-screw. Using 2-start threads, the nut is &quot;pushed&quot; from opposite sides of the diameter, so the nut doesn't have the default tendency to tilt and bind. 3-start threads are even better because the nut is stabilized at 3 points, resisting binding forces from any direction. 4-start threads are better still but maybe a bit overkill. All this is to say that the downsides of the high effective thread pitch are somewhat compensated for by the benefits of using mult-start threads. Switching to a single-start 1mm thread would increase the resolution by 4X but would introduce some other downsides of using single-start threads, which technically could cause some other inefficiencies. It's not practical to make 4-start, 1mm thread or if it were, it wouldn't be a common part and thus probably even more expensive than just using gear reduction. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20999" LastEditorUserId="20999" LastEditDate="2020-06-08T17:28:44.620" LastActivityDate="2020-06-08T17:28:44.620" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13836" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13845" CreationDate="2020-06-09T04:49:32.070" Score="8" ViewCount="6950" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been having a problem lately with some minor layer shifting with my Ender 3. It just started recently and I've made no changes to the printer since it was working fine. The layer shifting is always on the X-axis and it's not a large amount. Just enough to render my prints useless. The shift can happen in either direction on the X-axis. See attached photo.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Things I've tried:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Retensioning the belts&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Printing at slower speeds&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Checking all bed connections to make sure the bed is solid&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Reducing the jerk setting&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Activating Z-hop&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Reducing acceleration&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Increased retraction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem occurs on multiple STL files that used to work fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any help would be appreciated&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/246qT.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Photo of a 3D printed model with random layer shifts along the X axis&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/246qT.png&quot; alt=&quot;Photo of a 3D printed model with random layer shifts along the X axis&quot; title=&quot;Photo of a 3D printed model with random layer shifts along the X axis&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20418" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2023-02-16T14:26:58.137" LastActivityDate="2023-02-16T14:26:58.137" Title="Ender 3 X-axis layer shifting" Tags="|creality-ender-3|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13840" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5341" CreationDate="2020-06-09T15:15:18.943" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sorry for the late answer, but with Repetrel v3 and later, we have the option for you to configure a secondary COM port, and relay G- or M-Code commands from your other source through the Repetrel software to the printer. Please contact us for assistance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: I work for Hyrel 3D.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4922" LastActivityDate="2020-06-09T15:15:18.943" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13841" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13330" CreationDate="2020-06-09T15:22:10.723" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If your environment supports it, you can also use a G54 to add a constant offset to any positioning. So, you could use:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;G53 ; clear offsets  &#xA;G54 Z0.15 ; add 0.15mm to every Z position&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just remember to clear the offsets at the end of your gcode:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;G53 ; clear offsets&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4922" LastActivityDate="2020-06-09T15:22:10.723" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13843" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-06-09T21:04:27.450" Score="1" ViewCount="665" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm struggling to get my printer to the temps required for modified PETG (the filament I have is Fillamentum CPE and recommends 255-275 °C), I currently can only reach 245/250 °C even if my target temperature is above that. The hot-end is fully ceramic wrapped and metal (no PTFE liner to worry about) and the printer is in a DIY heat shielded enclosure (non-heated). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The printer is an old (but gold) Wanhao Duplicator 4 (Rep 1 clone) with a MK8/9 extruder running a custom build of Sailfish. I know there is a firmware cap at 280 °C but that's fine, I don't intend to go above that. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bar totally swapping out the extruder assembly what can I do to up the hot-end temperature, upgrade the power supply, heater cartridge? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user20705" LastEditorDisplayName="user20705" LastEditDate="2020-06-10T11:20:51.957" LastActivityDate="2020-06-10T11:20:51.957" Title="Upgrade hot-end to achieve higher temps (e.g. for PETG)" Tags="|hotend|petg|wanhao|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13844" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13843" CreationDate="2020-06-10T00:16:59.407" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most PETG reacts vey badly to temperatures above 255. The typical optimal PETG temperature ranges from 225 to 245. Above that it gets sticky...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If PETG is your goal, you might want to find a filament that is more friendly to your printer. They are pretty cheap, and now you have transitioned to an all-metal hot end, you should be good to go!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21453" LastActivityDate="2020-06-10T00:16:59.407" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13845" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13836" CreationDate="2020-06-10T00:43:08.243" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;OK I found the answer. I removed the extruder cover and found that the 2 screws attaching the extruder assembly were loose. A very simple fix to a very irritating problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20418" LastActivityDate="2020-06-10T00:43:08.243" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13847" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-06-10T15:17:08.723" Score="3" ViewCount="517" Body="&lt;p&gt;Recently prints aren't sticking to centre of bed - e.g if I print a grid of 25 identical models, the ones in centre will not attach to build plate.  Models near edges stick to build plate fine, on all 4 sides, plate is levelled fine.  No visible damage to screen, models on sides print fine and the models in centre stick to the FEP.  Previously printer worked fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Things tried:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cleaning build plate with IPA and also with acetone to ensure&#xA;degreased.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cleaning FEP with alcohol &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Replaced FEP &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tried adding PTFE&#xA;spray (v small amount) to film to encourage less sticking, issue&#xA;persists.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21522" LastActivityDate="2020-06-10T15:17:08.723" Title="Prints not sticking to centre of build plate, Phenom Peopoly" Tags="|resin|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13848" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-06-10T22:22:48.883" Score="2" ViewCount="2187" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hi I recently upgraded my CR-10S motherboard to the SKR 1.3 with TMC2208 drivers, in addition, I added a 2 in 1 out extruder system, but I am unsure of how to set it up in Marlin. If anyone could provide me a list of the lines of code I need to comment / uncomment / change, or any other advice it would be greatly appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21527" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-03-08T11:15:41.287" LastActivityDate="2022-02-07T18:21:51.883" Title="How do I set up a 2 in 1 out extruder system in Marlin" Tags="|marlin|creality-cr-10|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13849" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15171" CreationDate="2020-06-11T03:37:59.430" Score="2" ViewCount="667" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I have an issue with my FLSUN printer how can I contact customer support?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10422" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2021-01-01T15:08:15.003" LastActivityDate="2021-01-01T15:08:15.003" Title="How can I contact FLSUN support?" Tags="|flsun|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13850" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13849" CreationDate="2020-06-11T03:37:59.430" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have had good luck contacting them via AliExpress &lt;a href=&quot;https://flsun.aliexpress.com/store/2383013&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://flsun.aliexpress.com/store/2383013&lt;/a&gt; even though I bought my printer on Amazon. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10422" LastActivityDate="2020-06-11T03:37:59.430" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13851" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13848" CreationDate="2020-06-11T07:05:48.327" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You need to change the amount of extruders in the &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/blob/2.0.x/Marlin/Configuration.h&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;code&gt;Configuration.h&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Set 2 extruders by defining:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;// @section extruder&#xA;&#xA;// This defines the number of extruders&#xA;// :[0, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8]&#xA;#define EXTRUDERS 2&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Define that you have a single nozzle:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;// For Cyclops or any &amp;quot;multi-extruder&amp;quot; that shares a single nozzle.&#xA;#define SINGLENOZZLE&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to switch filament during a print, you need to write tool loading and unloading (tool changing) scripts for the slicer you use, also do print a filament prime/wipe tower that is large enough to purge the filament to prevent color mixing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In case color mixing, you do not set the amount of extruders, instead you need to define that mixing is being used:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#define MIXING_EXTRUDER&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;furthermore, the amount of mixing stepper need to be defined:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#define MIXING_STEPPERS 2&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-03-08T11:17:35.517" LastActivityDate="2021-03-08T11:17:35.517" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13852" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-06-11T09:17:25.497" Score="1" ViewCount="1551" Body="&lt;p&gt;I broke one of the blades of the fan and that's making the x-box vibrate. Other than that it works fine and I can still print at a very low flow rate and a lot of noise. Will replacing the blades, not the whole fan work?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Found this and how to replace on thingyverse:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:186979&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:186979&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21532" LastActivityDate="2020-06-13T06:34:15.720" Title="Can I replace the cooling fan blade for the hot end on creality ender 3?" Tags="|creality-ender-3|hotend|cooling|replacement-parts|print-fan|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13853" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13852" CreationDate="2020-06-11T13:06:18.710" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It will work, but likely with reduced performances: designing blades is not an easy task and the ones you can print will not be as good as the ones designed for that specific fan.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Overall, do it for fun before you replace the fan anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;IF your fan has symmetrical blades (unlikely), another option is to break the opposite blade to balance the fan.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2338" LastEditorUserId="2338" LastEditDate="2020-06-12T10:12:01.420" LastActivityDate="2020-06-12T10:12:01.420" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13854" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-06-11T14:22:45.507" Score="1" ViewCount="7670" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've just installed a BLTouch on my Ender 5 Pro and updated the firmware to 2.0.5.3 and enabled BL touch. I can send a &lt;code&gt;G29&lt;/code&gt; which probes all the points correctly, I also get a readout of the results in OctoPrint terminal but when it puts a first layer down the filament does not adhere to the bed. I also end up with a large clump on filament stuck to my nozzle afterwards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've set the Z probe offset while the nozzle was in the center of the bed, and had a good grip on the piece of paper under it while setting it. I stored settings afterwards. I can't actually tell if the BL touch is even doing anything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do I need to manually level the bed before using the printer with a BLTouch? It currently has not been leveled since I assembled the printer. I guessed the BLTouch would handle this for me and I wouldn't need to level the bed ever?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These were the results from my &lt;code&gt;G29&lt;/code&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;-0.218, -0.148, -0.116, -0.088, -0.084&#xA;-0.194, -0.136, -0.115, -0.061, -0.020&#xA;-0.138, -0.035, +0.030, +0.091, +0.107&#xA;-0.008, +0.062, +0.129, +0.191, +0.261&#xA;+0.160, +0.261, +0.339, +0.411, +0.469&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21535" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-06-11T17:25:21.097" LastActivityDate="2020-06-11T18:44:48.780" Title="Do you need to manually level the bed with a BLTouch? Adhesion issues with Ender 5 and BLTouch 1.3" Tags="|bed-leveling|adhesion|bltouch|creality-ender-5|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13855" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-06-11T14:44:19.380" Score="1" ViewCount="555" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am a newbie with a 3 months old Ender 3 Pro, my first one.  I purchased, installed and loaded a new SKR Mini E3 V1.2 mobo.  The LCD panel lit up as usual without problems.  I selected 'print from card' which showed the micro SD card had 2 files, FIRMWARE and test, as I recall.  Then I put the SD card into a micro-SD to SD card adapter, which I hoped to use, and plugged it into the card slot but it didn't work.  I fiddled with it a little, then removed the adapter and discarded it. I then removed the card and copied it onto my PC for safekeeping.  I also added 2 short, simple .gcode files to check out the printer.  I put it back into the printer and turned it on.  The panel came on listing several entries but Prepare, Control and Print from Card were missing. I opened and scrolled each item, even clicking on 'Initiate EEPROM' but without success.  I plugged and re-plugged the SD card, restarted the printer several times with no luck.  Put the SD card back into the PC and both original files plus the 2 .gcode files I added were still there. This exhausts my meager knowledge of things to do and I surely hope someone can help me out!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20310" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-06-11T17:26:54.820" LastActivityDate="2020-06-11T17:26:54.820" Title="Print from card not showing on new SKR mini e3 v1.2 card" Tags="|troubleshooting|skr-mini-e3|microsd|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13856" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13944" CreationDate="2020-06-11T15:06:22.703" Score="3" ViewCount="367" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm newbie at this stackexchange and I have a &quot;FlashForge Finder&quot;; lately there are many problems with the horizontal surfaces quality (Bottom and Top at the same time).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As some issue guides suggests, I changed: number of solid layers, % of filling and extrusion multiplier; I use &quot;Flashprint&quot;, so some concepts must be translated from Cura in the options menu.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;P.S: All filaments are PLA.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Without any change:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kN9K4.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kN9K4.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XWw31.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XWw31.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After all changes (the &quot;best&quot;)&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nbE13.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nbE13.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My settings for last black disk:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/G2nkp.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/G2nkp.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2GzNN.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2GzNN.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Qw0yc.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Qw0yc.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/psACU.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/psACU.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/F7UOy.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/F7UOy.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PcdnR.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PcdnR.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XbN1e.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XbN1e.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9pSYX.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9pSYX.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EyYqp.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EyYqp.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21537" LastEditorUserId="21537" LastEditDate="2020-06-11T18:10:29.403" LastActivityDate="2020-06-24T18:10:58.173" Title="Bad quality at horizontal faces" Tags="|pla|quality|surface|flashforge-finder|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13857" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11974" CreationDate="2020-06-11T15:25:44.630" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would personally stick to isopropanol. Be aware that 3D printing is a very expensive hobby, but health wise this is a better option. Methylated spirits can quickly become dangerous, and often can burn with a close to invisible flame, meaning that you may not even see if it is burning. Also, the fumes can quickly become dangerous, whereas after years of dealing with isopropanol I have noticed no ill effects. Cost should not be your primary concern, health of you and your printer should be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21277" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-01-01T08:29:33.103" LastActivityDate="2021-01-01T08:29:33.103" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13858" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13854" CreationDate="2020-06-11T18:44:48.780" Score="1" Body="&lt;h2&gt;yes&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even with auto mesh bed leveling, you ought and should level the bed to a good degree to make the leveling not only more efficient: the mesh bed level is to work out small dimples and hills in the bed, bot to work with a crooked or heavily misaligned bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:29:41.667" LastActivityDate="2020-06-11T18:44:48.780" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13859" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13852" CreationDate="2020-06-11T18:51:50.793" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's a standard part. You can find fitting replacement fans easily by searching for the dimensions and the voltage. It's better to use a molded part as it is smoother and lighter than any FDM printed one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2020-06-13T06:34:15.720" LastActivityDate="2020-06-13T06:34:15.720" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13860" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8180" CreationDate="2020-06-11T19:24:03.713" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The configuration files were on a flash drive that came with the printer.  That being said, here is the file that was located on my flash drive for Slic3r (denoted as deprecated on March 1, 2017).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is for a Creatorbot Pro II.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://pastebin.com/j1dkSt8f&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://pastebin.com/j1dkSt8f&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Save it as Slic3r_config.ini and import it in to Slic3r.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21542" LastActivityDate="2020-06-11T19:24:03.713" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13861" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13856" CreationDate="2020-06-11T19:30:14.317" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This could be caused by under extrusion, often caused by the bed being too close to the hot end / extruder nozzle. You could try to relevel the bed, or change the screws so that the bed moves down slightly. Often when levelling, you want to feel slight resistance when sliding a piece of paper between the bed an the nozzle. You should do this for all 4 corners. Be careful though, you dont want the bed too far away from the nozzle, or problems maybe arise with the print not sticking to the bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps, Luke.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21277" LastActivityDate="2020-06-11T19:30:14.317" CommentCount="15" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13862" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12087" CreationDate="2020-06-12T10:43:48.030" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;So, I am one of those who has implemented this on my big scale heavily modified cr-10 S5. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Well with bigger prints, the risk of crashing into itself because of a small blob is very real. Possibly ruining a 100$ worth of filament and missing deadlines. (We are using this professionally.) Blobs will happen, especially if you run low cost filaments and PETG, which is the only sane option for functional bigger prints from a cost perspective. We are using the BTT system S42B on all axis and it works well. A blob is now just a small distraction which can be polished away but the remaining print is still dimensionally correct.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, it is not a trivial task to actually implement. To make this work one needs a printer main board allowing for external stepper drivers, like SKR E3 DIP,SKR V1.4,SKR V1.4 Turbo and so on. Also there one needs to tune the PID:s for the system in use which is not super simple.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are truly an expert and do big prints, I really think this is a must have upgrade. On the other hand if one are only printing smaller parts on a hobby scale this will not be a worth while upgrade. I am not talking about the money involved, the pcbs are just 14$/pcs but the work needed with new cabling pid-tuning marlin-digging and so on. For us it is just amazing to not have 30% failures any more, du to the inevitable blobs sometimes appearing in bigger prints.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21552" LastActivityDate="2020-06-12T10:43:48.030" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13864" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13872" CreationDate="2020-06-12T19:33:21.343" Score="1" ViewCount="1371" Body="&lt;p&gt;I installed TH3D to my stock mainboard via &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3TTuisjmbmY&amp;amp;list=WL&amp;amp;index=47&amp;amp;t=0s&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this guide&lt;/a&gt;, but BLTouch does not work properly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It does not check all 9 points before point it just go middle then check z then start printing. BLTouch normally needs to check all 9 points before printing or with autobedleveling but somehow mine do not work like this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21555" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-06-12T22:30:13.160" LastActivityDate="2021-06-21T14:00:31.280" Title="BLTouch with TH3D Ender 3 pro" Tags="|creality-ender-3|bltouch|th3d|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13865" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13873" CreationDate="2020-06-12T22:30:18.707" Score="1" ViewCount="1269" Body="&lt;p&gt;I find that white filaments are quite translucent and printing 5 layers of white filament onto 2 layers of black filament (at 0.2 mm layers, the white layers being 100% infilled and the underlying black layer covering about 85% of the whole area) produces a slightly grey color on the top.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is that a limitation of the white colour (or the actual material used)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there materials, that address this issue to some extent?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Adjusting layer thickness while keeping the overall height won't change things, right?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21536" LastActivityDate="2020-06-13T07:46:31.360" Title="Are there white filaments, that are not so translucent?" Tags="|print-material|filament-choice|color|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13866" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13865" CreationDate="2020-06-13T00:43:37.617" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most of the plastics used for filament are inherently transparent and largely colorless. Color is achieved by adding pigment. Translucent and transparent colors are easy, but opaque colors require large amounts of opaque pigments, and even then, their opacity has its limits - even with black filament!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can probably find very opaque white filament, but beware - too much pigment will affect the raw properties of the filament itself, either in terms of print temperature or things like layer adhesion or stringing/clogging etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21453" LastActivityDate="2020-06-13T00:43:37.617" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13867" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13852" CreationDate="2020-06-13T00:52:31.110" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you want to &lt;strong&gt;play&lt;/strong&gt; then print new blades; if you want to &lt;strong&gt;print&lt;/strong&gt; then swap the fan - but pay attention to: Voltage, current draw, rpm, fan thickness, etc. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: most fans are built to be disposable/replaceable. They are never built to be repaired, and as yet, nobody has succeeded in replicating the efficiency/balance/effectiveness of commercially available blades via 3D printing - and many in the Drone world have tried and died!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you decide to replace, ideally you want EXACTLY the same fan as a replacement - even if it costs more than something similar. When you get seasoned, you can upgrade and improve, but until then, similar is not good enough...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21453" LastActivityDate="2020-06-13T00:52:31.110" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13868" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13572" CreationDate="2020-06-13T00:58:46.513" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would recommend PETG - only because it is structurally similar to the plastic used in the bottles that last forever, and most PETG is food grade - implying that its chemical stability should be reasonably good...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21453" LastActivityDate="2020-06-13T00:58:46.513" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13869" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5492" CreationDate="2020-06-13T01:09:34.760" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Fresh&lt;/strong&gt; 3M blue painter’s tape coated in a watered down solution of Elmer’s white glue works wonders - even when cold - for PLA.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The tape needs to be re-applied and coated for each print for it to &lt;strong&gt;really&lt;/strong&gt; stick, but it beats every other print surface I have tested for PLA other than PEI @ 70&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C. I’m guessing it has something to do with microscopic surface fibers on the tape...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(I like to print PETG as well, and that sticks too well to PEI, so I use blue 3M tape for both.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21453" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-06-13T05:32:08.867" LastActivityDate="2020-06-13T05:32:08.867" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13870" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13423" CreationDate="2020-06-13T01:29:41.693" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have already used alcohol to eliminate grease and fingerprints, sometimes scrubbing the print surface with a regular green scotchbrite pad can restore adhesion. It micro-scratches the surface and seriously increases the surface area of contact.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This all assumes you have properly calibrated the bed, reduced first layer print speed by at least 50%, increased first layer print thickness By &gt;= 50%...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21453" LastActivityDate="2020-06-13T01:29:41.693" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13871" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10314" CreationDate="2020-06-13T01:54:53.540" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You are delving into the darker recesses of 3D printing here!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;ACME threads, anti-backlash nuts, ball-screws, etc. will ALL follow...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The simple answer is that the Z-axis screw on all the cheaper 3D printers are pure crap! They use 8mm With triangular threads because it they are cheap and most software works with it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first major upgrade most folks make to a printer (after the print bed surface) is to replace the Z-axis screw and nut. Many are poorly mounted and/or warped, resulting in Z-axis wobble.  Most suffer major backlash - offset only by the fact that most printing only ever goes upwards...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The ideal upgrade would be to replace the rod and nut with a good quality ball-screw assembly that is properly mounted. But, if you do change the pitch, make sure you can alter the software to account for it...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, if your prints are good, enjoy, and don’t sweat the details!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21453" LastActivityDate="2020-06-13T01:54:53.540" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13872" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13864" CreationDate="2020-06-13T05:24:40.610" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;After setting up the BLTouch in firmware, you need to activate the leveling function for every print by inserting the leveling G-code &lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#G29:_Detailed_Z-Probe&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;'G29'&lt;/a&gt; in the start G-code script of your slicer. The code should be placed directly after command &lt;code&gt;G28&lt;/code&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that you can test the working of the sensor from the printer display: sensor can be deployed, stowed, reset and tested.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An alternative is to use the &lt;code&gt;G29&lt;/code&gt; and &lt;code&gt;M500&lt;/code&gt; command once in a while (for beds that don't change, don't get handled by excessive force and/or are operated at the same temperature) or store the shape of the bed through the display interface and put the command &lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#M420:_Leveling_On.2FOff.2FFade_.28Marlin.29&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;code&gt;M420 S1&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/a&gt; in your start G-code instead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-06-21T14:00:31.280" LastActivityDate="2021-06-21T14:00:31.280" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13873" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13865" CreationDate="2020-06-13T07:46:31.360" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;PLA filaments are pretty transparent in their pure state. Other filaments, especially fiber-filled ones, are opaque in nature. But in the end, the color is determined a lot by the colorful pigments added and the amount of pigments directly correlates to the opacity. The more pigment is added, the more opaque it becomes. There are several screws for the color though: Ammount and type of pigments. For transparent filaments.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not all pigments are the same. For example, white greatly differs between different brands. For example, my second-favorite brand's white is a little more in the &quot;cream&quot; color range, the filament sample that came with my TronXY X1 was very satin gloss and the first spool I ordered was a very white-opaque white. This all is because of the type of pigment used and the amount. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can you tell the amount? From the print properties and the looks of a printed filament: a filament that is very laden with pigments tends to print hotter than one that has few to none, but it also blocks light much better. I have experienced up to 20 °C between a transparent and the very heavily pigment laden white filament for the sweetspot. The same white filament was completely opaque after 1.6 mm in walls but most prints are!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remember: walls are generally thicker than roofs. If you really need to make the white covering fully, you'll need to make more white thickness, but thinner layers can help a slight bit as the included air in each layer helps a little.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastActivityDate="2020-06-13T07:46:31.360" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13874" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13879" CreationDate="2020-06-13T16:09:58.300" Score="1" ViewCount="1021" Body="&lt;p&gt;I installed the TH3D firmware to my Ender 3 Pro yesterday and today I am trying to configure the extruder rate because I am not using the stock extruder on my printer but have swapped in a BMG extruder. I edited these values and upload it to my board &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#define CUSTOM_ESTEPS&#xA;//#define REVERSE_E_MOTOR_DIRECTION&#xA;#define CUSTOM_ESTEPS_VALUE 415&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But these values do not change when I start to print something and because of that I need to edit it manually by going in to tune menu and editing flow to 415. How can I fix this issue?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21555" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-06-14T10:55:35.233" LastActivityDate="2020-06-14T14:07:27.987" Title="Cannot configure default E step for extruder on TH3D" Tags="|marlin|creality-ender-3|firmware|th3d|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13875" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13653" CreationDate="2020-06-13T17:43:32.553" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cura high-lights overhangs in red if the printer would end up printing completely into thin air. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your overhang is angled instead of being a purely vertical-to-horizontal transition, a much thinner layer height can increase the chances that enough of the prior layer exists to support the next layer being printed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically, the thinner the layer (within reason), the greater the allowable angle of overhang that is safe to print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21453" LastActivityDate="2020-06-13T17:43:32.553" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13876" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-06-14T03:02:13.643" Score="1" ViewCount="1421" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm in the middle of building a D-Bot printer, and have run into a bit of an issue when it comes to the heat bed wires.  The heated bed is an aluminum plate with a silicon heater attached to it, and the heater wires are not long enough to make it through the drag chain when the Z-axis is fully extended.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The silicon pad is 120&amp;nbsp;V AC / 750&amp;nbsp;W and will be turned on/off by a Fotek SSR.  The heater wires are cloth-covered and are probably 22-24 AWG. (Gauge is not labelled)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suspect I'll need to extend the wires by putting in some sort of coupler at the top of the drag chain, but I'm not certain if there are specific requirements for the wires for an AC powered heat bed.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To this end, I was wondering:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is there a specific wire gauge that I should use for the heater wires, and should it have a specific cladding?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What type of connector would be best for connecting the wires together securely in this case?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks in advance!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21566" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-06-14T04:48:04.457" LastActivityDate="2021-08-12T18:48:07.633" Title="How can I extend silicon hotbed wires safely?" Tags="|heated-bed|wiring|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13877" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-06-14T08:00:20.580" Score="1" ViewCount="483" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a FLSUN i3 220x220x240 with:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;an 2004 LCD (RepRap Discount Smart Controller)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;an MKS-gen-L-v1.0 printer board running Marlin firmware 2.0.5.x&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;3D touch sensor,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a filament runout sensor.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Everything works fine but for the mechanical Y-min switch: it stays triggered.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(&lt;code&gt;M119&lt;/code&gt;) YMIN worked under Marlin 1.1.2; everything is connected correctly and is physically working.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know what to do... Does maybe someone have an idea of what I can do?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These are my config files:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://pastebin.com/raw/JP7yUwFQ&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;configuration.h&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://pastebin.com/raw/c9K11PA3&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;configuration_adv.h&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://pastebin.com/raw/QCEED64z&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;pins_RAMPS.h&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RMMLC.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21568" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-06-15T05:06:45.407" LastActivityDate="2020-06-15T19:28:16.223" Title="Y-min stay triggered" Tags="|marlin|troubleshooting|endstop|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13878" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13876" CreationDate="2020-06-14T08:10:19.210" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;750 W at 120 V is 6.3 A. 22-24 AWG is on the thin side for this. I would recommend 18 AWG or thicker. You don't need a specific style of insulation for this (other than something that is rated for the voltage and temperature the wire will need to withstand, but most commonly found wire should be good).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A good way of connecting the wires would be to solder them. If you do not want to solder, there are many products on the market for connecting wires. A butt connector that you crimp could be a good option, or you could use a WAGO clamp. Whatever option you end up using, be sure to provide adequate strain relief as the connection point (be it soldered or with a connector) is more likely to fail from fatigue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastActivityDate="2020-06-14T08:10:19.210" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13879" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13874" CreationDate="2020-06-14T09:57:13.757" Score="1" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Initializing&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After changing your firmware, you always need to overwrite the old values in the SRAM and EEPROM with those from the Firmware. Which you do with &lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/11440/8884&quot;&gt;&lt;code&gt;M502 &amp;amp; M500&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Installing firmware does not by itself alter the EEPROM, so these settings needed to be &lt;em&gt;seeded into&lt;/em&gt; SRAM via &lt;a href=&quot;http://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M502.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;code&gt;M502&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/a&gt; and then &lt;em&gt;saved&lt;/em&gt; into EEPROM via &lt;a href=&quot;http://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M500.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;code&gt;M500&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could also run a G-code that has only these two lines:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;M502&#xA;M500&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Altering the EEPROM&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Via command&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively, you could access the printer via a &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/q/10573/8884&quot;&gt;terminal&lt;/a&gt; and send the command &lt;a href=&quot;https://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M092.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;code&gt;M92 E415&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/a&gt; to overwrite the SRAM directly, then &lt;code&gt;M500&lt;/code&gt; to save the new setting to EEPROM. The associated G-code that only alters the E-steps/mm would read&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;M92 E415&#xA;M500&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Via Software&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or you use a terminal that supports direct alteration of the EEPROM, like Repetier Host.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2020-06-14T14:07:27.987" LastActivityDate="2020-06-14T14:07:27.987" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13880" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13882" CreationDate="2020-06-14T15:26:02.713" Score="1" ViewCount="10712" Body="&lt;p&gt;I installed a BLTouch bed leveling probe on my printer which uses Marlin 2.0.5.3.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now the printer seems to be of two minds when it comes to finding the origin. Homing XY moves to the lower left as it always has, but homing Z moves not only to Z=0, but also to the center of the build plate. The printer knows this is (100,100,0) and is not mistakenly thinking it is (0,0,0).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This causes some issues such as now the nozzle wipe at the beginning of a print happens right in the center of where the print is supposed to be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this expected behavior?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16270" LastActivityDate="2021-01-03T16:47:28.483" Title="Installed bed leveling probe, now Z homing moves to center" Tags="|marlin|bed-leveling|homing|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13881" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12119" CreationDate="2020-06-14T16:59:56.833" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Unsupported parts need to be printed with support. If your supports are too hard to remove, try the Tree Support setting and make sure that your support structure is set up with a gap to the actual print. As we don't know which slier you use, I can't go into more details here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastActivityDate="2020-06-14T16:59:56.833" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13882" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13880" CreationDate="2020-06-14T18:07:30.437" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a consequence of enabling &lt;code&gt;Z_SAFE_HOMING&lt;/code&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Z Safe Homing prevents Z from homing when the probe (or nozzle) is outside bed area by moving to a defined XY point (by default, the middle of the bed) before Z Homing when homing all axes with &lt;code&gt;G28&lt;/code&gt;. As a side-effect, X and Y homing are required before Z homing. If stepper drivers time out, X and Y homing will be required again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Enable this option if a probe (not an endstop) is being used for Z homing. Z Safe Homing isn’t needed if a Z endstop is used for homing, but it may also be enabled just to have XY always move to some custom position after homing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My default Cura start G-code contained this sequence:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;G28 X0 Y0 ;move X/Y to min endstops&#xA;G28 Z0 ;move Z to min endstops&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I changed this to&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;G28 ;safe homing&#xA;G90 ;absolute positioning&#xA;G0 X0 Y0 ; move to bottom-left corner for nozzle wipe&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However any oozing will still happen at the center of the build plate, which is a problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16270" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:29:41.667" LastActivityDate="2020-06-14T19:53:15.737" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13883" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-06-14T19:43:41.457" Score="0" ViewCount="195" Body="&lt;p&gt;I installed a BLTouch on my printer (Wanhao Duplicator i3) with Marlin 2.0.5.3 and enabled &lt;code&gt;AUTO_BED_LEVELING_BILINEAR&lt;/code&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, the results are disastrous when I print. The first few layers do not adhere to the build plate at all. It is much worse with the probe than when I was leveling by hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my Marlin configuration,  I left the probe's Z offset from the nozzle at 0. Then I went through &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.webcarpenter.com/blog/162-3D-Print---How-to-calibrate-Z-offset-with-a-BLTouch-bed-leveling-probe-sensor&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;the Z offset calibration process&lt;/a&gt; to set Z=0 to barely touching the build plate. Then I ran the bed leveling process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I diagnose what's going wrong?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I run &lt;code&gt;G30 X100 Y100&lt;/code&gt; to probe the center of the bed, I get a measurement of Z=1.18. I'm assuming that represents the true Z offset between the probe and the nozzle tip?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's another thing I tried. I probed with &lt;code&gt;G30 X100 Y100&lt;/code&gt; which output a measurement like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Recv: Bed X: 100.00 Y: 100.00 Z: 0.06&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tweaked the Z offset with &lt;code&gt;M851 Z...&lt;/code&gt; repeatedly until a probe yielded &lt;code&gt;Z: 0.00&lt;/code&gt; (the offset was -1.07). Then I ran &lt;code&gt;G29&lt;/code&gt; to run bed leveling, which gave me this grid:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Bilinear Leveling Grid:&#xA;      0      1      2      3      4      5      6      7      8&#xA; 0 -0.403 -0.313 -0.258 -0.210 -0.178 -0.138 -0.128 -0.085 -0.058&#xA; 1 -0.285 -0.223 -0.178 -0.145 -0.103 -0.060 -0.050 -0.023 -0.045&#xA; 2 -0.178 -0.128 -0.080 -0.083 -0.078 -0.053 -0.045 -0.048 -0.038&#xA; 3 -0.103 -0.058 -0.028 -0.030 -0.018 -0.015 -0.018 -0.000 -0.030&#xA; 4 -0.020 +0.015 +0.015 +0.002 -0.000 -0.013 -0.035 -0.060 -0.088&#xA; 5 +0.030 +0.055 +0.037 +0.020 +0.035 -0.015 -0.023 -0.073 -0.140&#xA; 6 +0.060 +0.082 +0.087 +0.020 -0.000 -0.055 -0.103 -0.160 -0.210&#xA; 7 +0.097 +0.102 +0.082 +0.055 +0.002 -0.035 -0.105 -0.138 -0.265&#xA; 8 +0.145 +0.130 +0.102 +0.077 -0.045 -0.108 -0.183 -0.193 -0.263&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can see at (4,4), the center of the bed is 0.0.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then I saved the mesh and Z-offset with &lt;code&gt;M500&lt;/code&gt;. I confirmed repeatedly that &lt;code&gt;G28&lt;/code&gt; puts the nozzle just touching the build plate and not pushing on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This strategy seems to be work alright. I'm not sure if it's the correct way to do it. I'd welcome any feedback. If anything, I think I should probably raise the nozzle a fraction of a millimeter higher off the bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16270" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-06-15T06:09:08.877" LastActivityDate="2020-06-15T09:54:41.067" Title="Severe regression in print quality after adding Z probe" Tags="|marlin|bed-leveling|bltouch|z-probe|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13884" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13883" CreationDate="2020-06-15T07:45:54.710" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Even with Auto Mesh Bed Leveling, you need to level the bed as good as you can. Your leveling grid show it varies between -0.403 and +0.145, that is about 0.55 mm or about 2-3 layers of filament (0.2 or 0.3 mm per layer). That &lt;strong&gt;can't&lt;/strong&gt; be compensated for reasonably.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Re-level your bed so that the corners only have an absolute error of at max 0.1 mm around their average 0 - that's half what I consider the &lt;em&gt;standard&lt;/em&gt; layer 1 height of 0.2 mm, regardless of other settings.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Make sure the 0 of the extended probe is a sliver under the nozzle, just to prevent piercing your bed on probing&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;code&gt;G28&lt;/code&gt; should bring the nozzle a hair sliver above the bed - if you move the head in X or Y direction (by hand after disabling the steppers, or move the carriage using the LCD) it should not make contact.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2020-06-15T09:54:41.067" LastActivityDate="2020-06-15T09:54:41.067" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13885" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13877" CreationDate="2020-06-15T11:47:10.463" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This MKS-GEN-L board is in essence a plain RAMPS board, and as such it uses the same pinout apart from some specific pins. Do note the include of the RAMPS &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/blob/2.0.x/Marlin/src/pins/ramps/pins_MKS_GEN_L_V2.h&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;pinout in the MKS-GEN-L at the end of the file&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From your comment you have changed the pins 14 and 15, in doing so, you need to plug the Y-min endstop in the Y-max socket after uploading the modified firmware. With the unmodified firmware (no pin switch), if the Y-endstop works in the Y-max socket, this means that you have a hardware issue. The pin labeled 14 is connected to the Y-max instead of the Y-min. If you did the pinout switch and left the endstop in the Y-min socket, then you can conclude that the 15 pin is not connected to the Y-min socket. Basically you don't have a 15 pin that is exposed. Could be that there is an issue on the board with the traces or the soldering.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2020-06-15T11:47:10.463" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13886" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13894" CreationDate="2020-06-15T13:58:45.843" Score="2" ViewCount="170" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the right filament material is available, it seems practical for dentist to 3D print temporary crowns. Multiple images of the tooth to crown could be used for a 3D scan. Custom software or settings would probably make the software finish in less time. A 3D-printed temporary crown would probably take less work to get it to fit properly. Anyone know of development to do this? This probably would take a series of clinical trials to get FDA approval.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15075" LastEditorUserId="15075" LastEditDate="2020-06-15T16:35:00.110" LastActivityDate="2021-04-17T17:15:57.597" Title="Printing dental temporary crowns" Tags="|health|medical|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13887" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-06-15T15:48:22.700" Score="0" ViewCount="298" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm using &lt;code&gt;Marlin bugfix 2.0.x&lt;/code&gt; with my custom printer. Sliced a test cube with &lt;code&gt;PrusaSlicer 2.2.0&lt;/code&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My printer starts printing process but randomly stops for one second and then continues. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Where I can start to find what's wrong?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20151" LastActivityDate="2020-06-15T15:48:22.700" Title="Printer keeps pausing and restart during print process" Tags="|marlin|prusaslicer|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13888" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="380" CreationDate="2020-06-15T16:04:26.253" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I realize this is an old post .. but playing around with drilling PLA myself .. &#xA;100 % infill .. and use dish soap for a lubricant .. it seemed to work really well .. &#xA;I am a hobby machinist .. had a lathe and mill years back and used all the proper oils etc .. but in this case didnt want to expose the pla to oils and I did that once on a part I was trying to wet sand .. and it appeared as though the pla absorbed some of the oil .. &#xA;Well that just gave me all kinds of thoughts and ideas as far as oil absorption goes .. lol &#xA;Maybe need to experiment with how much a piece of PLA will absorb if its even measureable ..&#xA;Anyways .. agree with all above .. and could give the dish soup a try in hopes that it will help lessen the amount of heat generated .. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21576" LastActivityDate="2020-06-15T16:04:26.253" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13890" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13710" CreationDate="2020-06-15T20:43:02.027" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's possible that the slicer is using a minimum cooling time per layer and the corner is set as its home coordinates.  In the settings of your printer you can set the home coordinates and in the slicer you can reduce/remove the time between layers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20168" LastActivityDate="2020-06-15T20:43:02.027" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13891" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10583" CreationDate="2020-06-15T22:08:11.943" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;While I tried a lot of things to solve this, including tuning temperature, fan, speed, etc., ultimately the single biggest factor that causes or prevents it is the state of Cura's &lt;em&gt;Outer Before Inner Walls&lt;/em&gt; (&lt;code&gt;outer_inset_first&lt;/code&gt;) option. With outer walls first, I don't have the problem at all. With the default (inner walls first), I have it to varying degrees depending on geometry and a lot of other factors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't have a good explanation for why this happens so I'm asking a new question about it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2020-06-15T22:08:11.943" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13892" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-06-15T22:22:38.637" Score="1" ViewCount="400" Body="&lt;p&gt;In &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/q/10583/11157&quot;&gt;an old question&lt;/a&gt; I just &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/13891/11157&quot;&gt;self-answered&lt;/a&gt;, I had ongoing problems with corner curling that went away due to my switching to using Cura's &lt;em&gt;Outer Before Inner Walls&lt;/em&gt; (&lt;code&gt;outer_inset_first&lt;/code&gt;) setting. Now, since there are sometimes reasons to prefer not to use that setting, I'm trying to figure out how it makes the difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My initial hypothesis was that the inner walls are pressed outward slightly beyond their nominal position, due to skin and infill overlap settings, and that when there's not sufficient room for the outer wall material, the path of least tension at a corner is for it to curl upward (whereas along straight edges it's just remaining in a straight line). However, disabling infill and skin overlap did not significantly improve things. Could it just be slight remaining bulge at the corner of the inner walls? I'm using Marlin with Linear Advance calibrated to avoid that, and visually there doesn't seem to be such a bulge, but it at least seems vaguely plausible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are some other plausible explanations to invesigate?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2020-06-15T22:22:38.637" Title="Why does printing outer walls last cause corner curling?" Tags="|print-quality|ultimaker-cura|pla|warping|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13893" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-06-16T04:30:11.007" Score="1" ViewCount="104" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am using a Creality Ender 5 with a tempered glass bed. I could say that I am a seasoned 3D printing hobbyist but I am really out of ideas in this case. Currently I am using a grey colored PLA that was working rather fine (not as good as my Hatchbox, but that ran out). I set my bed temperature to 60&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C as always, even used a raft to improve adhesion. Since the print I am trying to accomplish is not very tall, and I detest even the slightest warping, I disabled the cooling fan for most of my print, and crank it to half way up in the middle. I am using a custom printed nozzle shroud, but it doesn’t matter in this case because the print warped before halfway to a point that I have never encountered even back in the day when I would use cooling fan on every layer. It is truly terrifying and I need some advice. Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some stats:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bed: 60&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Nozzle: 200&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C for 1st layer, 185&amp;nbsp;&amp;deg;C for the rest&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fan: 50&amp;nbsp;% at layer 50, 0&amp;nbsp;% all before&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Raft: yes&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Resolution: 0.2&amp;nbsp;mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21586" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-06-16T06:44:42.227" LastActivityDate="2020-06-16T06:44:42.227" Title="PLA Warps despite every effort to prevent it" Tags="|pla|warping|creality-ender-5|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13894" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13886" CreationDate="2020-06-16T18:38:11.993" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You ask about &amp;quot;filament&amp;quot;, so I assume you expect fused-filament technologies. These are however not accurate enough, besides being prone to gaps and crevices which are problematic in crowns. The smallest viable nozzle, 0.2 mm, is still too rough for that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Dental 3D printers need to be very accurate, so the most common technologies used are stereolithography (SLA) and digital light processing (DLP).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Crowns can be made using resin printing. It is possible to use also CNC machining of porcelain, but it's not part of 3D printing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More info can be found on &lt;a href=&quot;https://all3dp.com/2/dental-3d-printing-guide/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://all3dp.com/2/dental-3d-printing-guide/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2338" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2021-04-17T17:15:57.597" LastActivityDate="2021-04-17T17:15:57.597" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13896" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-06-16T23:38:37.370" Score="0" ViewCount="1403" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an Ender-3 that I've been using daily for almost 2 years.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yesterday, I updated the firmware to Marlin 1.1.9.1, using the configuration files provided for the Ender-3.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I printed out a few small pieces, everything went well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And today, after 2 small printings of less than 15&amp;nbsp;mn, during the first layer of a printing, the printer head met one of the clamps of the bed, and the printing quickly stopped with an E1 error.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I turned off the printer, did various things (dinner, watching tv), and when I turned it back on, bed and nozzle cold, it refuses to tell me anything else than 156&amp;nbsp;°C for the nozzle, and 209&amp;nbsp;°C for the bed (the two temp_sensors of the nozzle and the bed &lt;code&gt;TEMP_SENSOR_0&lt;/code&gt; / &lt;code&gt;TEMP_SENSOR_BED&lt;/code&gt; are at 1).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did a reset of the EEPROM via the menus, turned the printer off and on, unplugged it from the mains, reuploaded the same Marlin: nothing to do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I doubt both sensors died at the same time. Or that the card was fried, in which case it would have been rather worrying because it would have been very directly related to the Marlin upgrade, made without frills or crazy customization (I just adjusted the display fonts, enabled thermal runaway protection, disabled power failure recovery, and lowered the maximum shutdown temperatures for the bed and nozzle by 5-10&amp;nbsp;°C).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would you be able to help me with that?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;P.S.:&lt;/strong&gt; I have reloaded my original firmware that I had saved, and when the printer has finished booting, I have the temperatures 157&amp;nbsp;°C (for the nozzle) and 211&amp;nbsp;°C for the bed displayed and the message &lt;code&gt;Err: max temp bed&quot;&lt;/code&gt; at the bottom of the screen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's very annoying.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I ask myself: what's wrong? And above all: why did it come to this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21595" LastEditorUserId="21595" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T10:26:51.700" LastActivityDate="2020-06-17T10:26:51.700" Title="Problem with temperature readings after Marlin upgrade" Tags="|marlin|creality-ender-3|thermistor|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13897" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14077" CreationDate="2020-06-17T03:13:22.580" Score="2" ViewCount="5409" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to 3D print a small thin tub/mold for an epoxy resin. I have tubings inserted into holes, and I need to fix these tubings securely with epoxy (see picture below). The space is very limited, and the whole assembly must have a smallest possible footprint, so I have to confine the epoxy from spreading to the sides - that's why I need a tub. The tub itself must have as thin walls as possibly for the same reason.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2M2OH.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2M2OH.png&quot; alt=&quot;CAD model&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The wall thickness is constant, so theoretically the nozzle could just make one single loop to print a layer, and then move to the next one. Kinda a spiral motion&lt;/strong&gt;. It seems to be so simple! How do I get the slicer (I use Ultimaker 2 with 0.4&amp;nbsp;mm nozzle, CoPA material, and slice in Cura 4.6.1) to produce single outline walls?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried so many things, but I couldn't get this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With the default settings for 0.2&amp;nbsp;mm layer a 0.4&amp;nbsp;mm wall (or thinner) will not be printed at all (left - 0.35&amp;nbsp;mm wall, middle - 0.4&amp;nbsp;mm, right - 0.45&amp;nbsp;mm):&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/accPb.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/accPb.png&quot; alt=&quot;Default settings&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Occasionally even the 0.45&amp;nbsp;mm-thick wall gets excluded from the print, which is really bizarre:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/adSYJ.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/adSYJ.png&quot; alt=&quot;absent walls&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I make the wall thicker, then the slicer tries to pack two discontinued lines next to each other, which is even worse. Cura has an option 'print thin walls', but this results in jerky, discontinued tracks.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DbDBJ.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DbDBJ.png&quot; alt=&quot;discontinued tracks&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the moment I print 0.45&amp;nbsp;mm walls with the 'print thin walls' option turned on, this is the closest to what I need that I could find so far. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hodsm.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hodsm.png&quot; alt=&quot;additional nozzle movements&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This may look fine in Cura, but the result is pretty ugly due to the additional nozzle movements... I really don't understand why the printer has to do them. It prints the outline, then jumps to the 'corner' and deposits a blob there. I can carefully remove these blobs with a scalpel, but come on, this is a disposable part and I need a ton of these!!!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hSbBG.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hSbBG.png&quot; alt=&quot;printing results with blobs&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If that helps, here is a &lt;a href=&quot;https://trello-attachments.s3.amazonaws.com/5b6b2534b398ed67842b5cf7/5edeb664103bb57c7dd030fc/b6a7558c09ae986bb5e5e4842f01ab07/short_450um.stl&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;link to a sample STL file with 450 &amp;mu;m walls&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21597" LastEditorUserId="21597" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T16:08:52.233" LastActivityDate="2021-09-20T07:58:53.120" Title="How to get a quality print of a thin single-walled shell?" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|slicing|ultimaker-2|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13898" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13897" CreationDate="2020-06-17T03:32:37.287" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cura is exceptionally bad at printing details comparable in size to the configured line width. Lower your wall line width to something like half the wall thickness (i.e. 0.225 mm) and see if that works. With a standard 0.4 mm nozzle I've had success printing tiny details with 0.2 mm line width or smaller. For example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JmR8h.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;tiny printed icosahedron bead with thread hole on penny&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And here's your model printed at 0.225 mm line width:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EJH4u.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;print of OP&amp;#39;s model&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also had to slow down the print speed considerably to get first layer adhesion with such thin lines. I did 40% via the printer UI, relative to 30 mm/s base rate, so effectively 12 mm/s. After first layer increasing speed was no problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Important:&lt;/strong&gt; You also need to set the &quot;Outer Wall Inset&quot; (&lt;code&gt;wall_0_inset&lt;/code&gt;) setting to 0. This is a broken Cura feature that's supposed to compensate for wall line widths less than the nozzle width, but the math is incorrect and not actually needed, and if it's left at the default it will reproduce exactly the same &quot;missing wall&quot; issue you got with full wall line width.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastEditorUserId="11157" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T17:17:03.300" LastActivityDate="2020-06-17T17:17:03.300" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13901" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8662" CreationDate="2020-06-17T22:45:49.597" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The paper &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.researchgate.net/publication/326697946_Chemical_Compatibility_of_Fused_Filament_Fabrication-based_3-D_Printed_Components_with_Solutions_Commonly_Used_in_Semiconductor_Wet_Processing&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Chemical Compatibility of Fused Filament Fabrication-based 3-D Printed Components with Solutions Commonly Used in Semiconductor Wet Processing&lt;/a&gt;, found by user R Kiselev in the comments on &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/13897/how-to-get-a-quality-print-of-a-thin-single-walled-shell&quot;&gt;another question&lt;/a&gt;, has results for this, and finds (this is summarized; details in paper) that PLA has fairly good resistance to HCl at 37%. It did not fare as well against other acids or solvents except IPA.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2020-06-17T22:45:49.597" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13902" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11726" CreationDate="2020-06-17T22:54:34.053" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;May I suggest as far as pushing the Z below 0 on a printer that won't allow it, just reset the Z a second time? In other words to set it 0.1mm lower when it's already at Z=0:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;G92 Z5&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;G0 Z4.9&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;G92 Z0&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21607" LastActivityDate="2020-06-17T22:54:34.053" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13903" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-06-18T08:54:37.597" Score="1" ViewCount="628" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://hyperphysics.phy-astr.gsu.edu/hbase/Tables/thrcn.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Glass is really bad at transferring heat&lt;/a&gt;. Therefore using it with heated bed seems to be a strange solution since it will not be transferring heat from bed to the print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However every article I see says it is actually good solution for printing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason I am concerned is that I have pretty large bed (500x500 mm) which is pretty hard to keep flat. And in this case glass would be a good top surface that will keep bed rather flat. But same time I am concerned that it will kill the benefit of heated bed (PCB style) and will require higher bed temperature to get glass surface to equal temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20265" LastEditorUserId="8971" LastEditDate="2020-06-19T07:08:06.017" LastActivityDate="2020-06-19T23:36:51.787" Title="Why is glass a widely recommended option for the print bed?" Tags="|heated-bed|glass-bed|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13904" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13903" CreationDate="2020-06-18T09:40:02.687" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I suggest to look at &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11309/removeable-glass-bed-vs-removeable-springsteel-beds&quot;&gt;a similar question&lt;/a&gt;, but just the glass question here:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Glass is a very smooth surface&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Glass shrinks when cooling to a degree it pops the print free on itself&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Glass is virtually impossible to scratch with metal scrapers&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Glass stays fairly flat under heating&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Refurbishing of the bed isn't needed but for applying your adhesion solution (Woodglue, Gluestick, Hairspray, 3DLac, ABS-Slurry... pretty much ANY glue can work&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Glass is one of the few surfaces upon which almost all materials can be printed without risking ruining your print surface on removal&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;PETG is one of the few that demands some sort of extra adhesion material with glass, most others don't need anything.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;POM and some other materials love to rip PEI apart&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I had a huge PLA-print stick so well to a BuildTak that I had to cut the sheet off the bed to get it off&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problems are fairly evident on the other hand:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Glass is brittle and shatters on impact or thermal stress.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Good glass can become rather expensive if you want a super flat sheet in non-standard sizing and a specific type.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Large glass sheets need a very even heater to prevent thermal stress.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Borosilicate?&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Borosilicate glass (&amp;quot;labware&amp;quot; glass) is more resistant to thermal stress but also does not pop free from the print the same way as normal glass does. It is also more sturdy but MUCH more expensive. It also comes with its own problems:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some people have experienced spalling in combination with PETG, as it created a perfect airtight seal, making an adhesive as a separation layer mandatory. This behavior was also reported for normal glass, which is why an adhesive material is strongly suggested for this material.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2020-06-19T23:36:51.787" LastActivityDate="2020-06-19T23:36:51.787" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13905" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-06-18T15:31:39.737" Score="4" ViewCount="7813" Body="&lt;p&gt;First of all, I'm quite new to 3D printing. After printing some temperature towers, stringing and bridging tests, I wanted to print the Bechys to see everything working together. I'm getting some strange &amp;quot;bumps&amp;quot; in the outer walls. It looks like for 2-3 layers, the filament gets lifted up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/l0w83.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/l0w83.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;infill before walls set&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VNmNB.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VNmNB.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;infill before walls unset&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I first thought, the infill is printed too far in the outer shell, so I unchecked &amp;quot;Infill Before Walls&amp;quot; in Cura. Surprisingly the outcome did not change and the &amp;quot;bumps&amp;quot; where in the exact same spots as before.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am aware of a part cooling problem, but my stock cooler already sits at 100 %. I don't think, the extruder temperature is too hot, with it being only 200 °C. As you can see, the printer only has a one sided cooling solution with a very small fan conduct.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bOANt.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bOANt.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;fan conduct&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Print settings:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Printer: Anycubic I3 Mega S&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Slicer: Cura&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Material: PLA&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Extruder Temp: 200 °C&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bed Temp: 60 °C&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Print speed: 45 mm/s&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Travel speed: 100mm/s&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Layer height: 0.2 mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Layer width: 0.4 mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Nozzle: 0.4 mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Infill: 10 %&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Retraction distance: 4.5 mm&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Retraction speed: 40 mm/s&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I am suspecting it must have something to do with the way, it is sliced. Does anyone have an idea?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Update:&#xA;I started the print again with aligned seams. Now you can clearly see the artifact. At the point of the seam the print is warped inwards and upwards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TK9IT.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TK9IT.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;aligned seams&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did some more prints and tried to increase retraction distance up to 10 mm and retraction speed up to 60 mm/s, but I also did not manage to improve the print. I also tried to enable the &amp;quot;retract at layer change&amp;quot; option and to disable &amp;quot;Z Hop When Retracted&amp;quot; but without success.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I set the travel speed down to 45 mm/s with no change in print quality.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21611" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-09-03T05:28:47.063" LastActivityDate="2020-10-14T17:22:01.473" Title="Bumps in outer wall" Tags="|print-quality|pla|troubleshooting|anycubic-i3-mega|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13906" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-06-18T23:53:28.500" Score="1" ViewCount="7270" Body="&lt;p&gt;My Ender 3 LCD display was working ok, I went to turn it on recently but is not showing any signal of life anymore...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have tried unplugging and plugging again, is there a way to test if the screen still works?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the issue? Or should I just buy and install a new LCD?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20849" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-06-19T07:09:21.617" LastActivityDate="2020-06-23T06:12:25.530" Title="Ender 3 display stopped working, how to test if need to replace" Tags="|creality-ender-3|full-graphic-smart-controller|lcd-screen|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13907" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-06-19T06:21:08.290" Score="1" ViewCount="71" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had a simple model imported into FreeCAD and I'd like to know the dimension of the bounding box for the model, how do I do that?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/l8jXV.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Screenshot of a model in FreeCAD&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/l8jXV.png&quot; alt=&quot;Screenshot of a model in FreeCAD&quot; title=&quot;Screenshot of a model in FreeCAD&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21617" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-06-19T07:55:48.200" LastActivityDate="2020-06-19T07:55:48.200" Title="Showing dimension of a model in FreeCAD" Tags="|freecad|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2020-06-23T10:24:40.827" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13908" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13906" CreationDate="2020-06-19T07:47:26.757" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is hard to answer, it depends on your skills if you can can repair it or not. As you haven't changed the firmware, it is unlikely that this is a software issue. If the display doesn't light up, the power to the module may be broken.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have an Arduino Uno or similar you can try to upload a sketch and connect the display to see if it works, there are plenty of sites explaining how you should do that (software sketch and hardware connections) based on the pins exposed on the EXP port. Note that you can forget the EXP port that controls the SD card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally, I would just buy a new controller, they are cheap (found on those typical Chinese vendor or auction sites).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What you can do is check whether the printer board still works, if you connect a USB cable directly to the board and connect it to a PC, you could see if the printer responds using a printer application such as Pronterface (part of the PrintRun suite).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2020-06-19T07:47:26.757" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13909" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13912" CreationDate="2020-06-19T13:26:03.193" Score="5" ViewCount="514" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there a slicer that can set the print speed for each layer as a function of the layer area? Larger areas give the layer a longer time to cool off before the next print layer.  When the layer areas start to get small (usually at toward the end of a print if so) the layer may need a slower speed to cool off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15075" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2020-08-15T20:33:32.410" LastActivityDate="2020-08-15T20:33:32.410" Title="Is there a slicer that can set the print speed for each layer as a function of the layer area?" Tags="|slicing|speed|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13912" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13909" CreationDate="2020-06-20T15:12:40.167" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most slicers have a feature in their cooling settings to &amp;quot;slow down if layer print time is below xxx&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Setting this to a higher value should ensure that small / short layers aren't printed too fast, so that cooling is still reliable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Shorter layers are slowed down linearly to reach the specified minimum time - unless a &amp;quot;minimum print speed&amp;quot; is also set.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13171" LastActivityDate="2020-06-20T15:12:40.167" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13913" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-06-20T17:07:24.340" Score="1" ViewCount="523" Body="&lt;p&gt;Prompted by discussion in comments of a recent question whether PLA is suitable for parts that need to be in contact with acetone, I did some casual experiments and found that my clear/&amp;quot;natural&amp;quot; 3D Solutech PLA is mostly but not entirely resistant to acetone, while my blue Hatchbox PLA is quickly softened and deformed by it. This got me wondering: how do you go about finding PLA that's &lt;strong&gt;actually PLA&lt;/strong&gt; (and nothing else)? Just &amp;quot;clear/natural&amp;quot; in product description does not seem to suffice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know this is close to a shopping question, so please make suggestions on how it could be improved if it's too close. It'd be great if there were keywords that worked, but an answer is probably going to be more along the lines of how to go about inquiring with manufacturers or where to find places where manufacturers might advertise that their products as pure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2020-06-22T19:08:58.680" Title="How to find pure PLA filament?" Tags="|filament|pla|print-material|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13914" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13913" CreationDate="2020-06-20T19:37:36.513" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's only two ways to make sure it is pure PLA without color and additives:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Make it yourself. Order PLA-pellets for manufacturing and put them into a filament extrusion machine&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Contact your manufacturer and ask them to do the above for you.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note though that the pure PLA might have undesirable attributes for pritability that are fought with fillers and additives.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastActivityDate="2020-06-20T19:37:36.513" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13915" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13919" CreationDate="2020-06-21T09:35:34.383" Score="3" ViewCount="4789" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a model of an eye that I custom made in &lt;strong&gt;Blender 2.83&lt;/strong&gt; that when printed only creates &lt;strong&gt;roughness&lt;/strong&gt; on the printed object near where I had the supports.  &lt;strong&gt;The supports are not the cause of the roughness&lt;/strong&gt; (at least not completely) since the supports don't even touch the parts of the print where the majority of the roughness and bumps are (&lt;strong&gt;refer to my photos&lt;/strong&gt; of the print)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The roughness is only near the bottom part of the sphere as it prints upwards (refer to photos)&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I'm looking for is a technique or any suggestions for printing this without the roughness so it's smooth like in the rest of the print.  I'm also curious &lt;em&gt;what&lt;/em&gt; is causing the roughness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Eye Model in Blender&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FNlOr.gif&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FNlOr.gif&quot; alt=&quot;Eye model in blender&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Blender Scale Ratio:&lt;/strong&gt; 0.001&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Blender Units:&lt;/strong&gt; mm&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Eye Model in Prusa Slicer&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Layer Gif&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4pluI.gif&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4pluI.gif&quot; alt=&quot;Eye Model in Prusa Slicer&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Prusa Slicer Main Settings (Higher Res)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0gEV0.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0gEV0.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Prusa Slicer Main Settings (Higher Res)&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Variable Layer Heights For Smoothness&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ggRpk.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ggRpk.png&quot; alt=&quot;Variable Layer Heights For Smoothness&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Eye Model Prints Photos&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Eye Model Small Version 3D Print (Notice it's &lt;strong&gt;smooth&lt;/strong&gt; on top of print)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BA6tY.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BA6tY.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Eye Model Small Version 3D Print&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Eye Model Small Version 3D Print &lt;strong&gt;Trouble Area&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/e8pa6.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/e8pa6.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Eye Model Small Version 3D Print Trouble Area&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Eye Model Small &amp;amp; Large Version With Support (Notice &lt;strong&gt;roughness&lt;/strong&gt; on the sphere)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4lXuB.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4lXuB.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Eye Model Small &amp;amp; Large Version With Support&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Example of Support Used On Small Print&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OHuyp.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OHuyp.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Example of Support Used On Small Print&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Smooth on inside of print&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fKor2.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fKor2.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Smooth on Inside&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;--------- Print Details ---------&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Printer:&lt;/strong&gt; Prusa i3 MK3s&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Filament:&lt;/strong&gt; PLA Galaxy Silver (Prusa Reserach)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Slicer Software:&lt;/strong&gt; Prusa Slicer&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Print Temperature First Layer&lt;/strong&gt;: 205 degrees&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Print Temperature Other Layers&lt;/strong&gt;: 190 degrees&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Notes:&lt;/strong&gt; The suggested temperature for the filament is 205-215, I've adjusted after careful calibration given my environment to a lower temperature to reduce stringing.  I created a tower at different temperatures and discovered 190 was the perfect setting to reduce stringing in my case with this material.  Refer to my screenshot below.  &lt;strong&gt;I do not think temperature has anything to do with this since the print is smooth inside and near the top without any issues&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Temperature Tower Test For Filament Photo&lt;/strong&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Note stringing in the cone test areas at 225 to 205)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4i87u.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4i87u.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Temperature Tower&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;--------- &lt;strong&gt;Prusa Slicer Settings Photos&lt;/strong&gt; ---------&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Filament settings&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QH8q3.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QH8q3.png&quot; alt=&quot;filament settings&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Extruder Settings&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/90NXg.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/90NXg.png&quot; alt=&quot;extruder settings&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Support Settings&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UaBv4.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UaBv4.png&quot; alt=&quot;Support Settings&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21645" LastActivityDate="2022-04-11T15:45:57.303" Title="3D Printed Sphere, How to Remove Roughness" Tags="|prusa-i3|troubleshooting|prusaslicer|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13917" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-06-21T13:23:04.923" Score="0" ViewCount="162" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am very new to 3D printing and after finding the bed on my Ender 3 Pro to be very uneven I decided to install a bl-touch module and new firmware from &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.th3dstudio.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;TH3D&lt;/a&gt;. I use Cura and it works fine but it only probes the the center as U put in the &lt;code&gt;G28 G29&lt;/code&gt; commands. Instead if I enter only the &lt;code&gt;G28; HOME ALL AXES&lt;/code&gt; command, it performs the 12 point test.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the very end of it however, it does a HARDSTOP against the x axis bracket and if i leave in the &lt;code&gt;G29&lt;/code&gt; command it will keep running until I think it may damage the belt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did find an old post from 2015 with the same problem and he found a fix in the marlin firmware but the firmware has been updated several times and I am unable to find anything similar. Additionally, I am not sure what firmware I have since the TH3D site just says &amp;quot;latest firmware &amp;quot; as of 21/06/2020.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any help will be very much appreciated.&#xA;Thanks, Paul.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Reference videos below:&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/sUlqrSq6LeY?start=0&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/3TTuisjmbmY?start=0&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21649" LastEditorUserId="4922" LastEditDate="2020-06-22T21:16:28.360" LastActivityDate="2020-06-22T21:16:28.360" Title="BLTouch ender 3 pro doing a very hard end stop" Tags="|marlin|ultimaker-cura|creality-ender-3|bltouch|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13918" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13915" CreationDate="2020-06-21T13:43:18.153" Score="4" Body="&lt;h2&gt;You can't print them smooth&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The short answer is: with FDM you can't make curves that go into the Z-direction. The better question is: Why?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's look at why it is rough: the roughness is from the layer height and the thickness of the perimeters (walls). At some point, perimeters of the given thickness have to be placed in a way that does not cover up fully anymore. Let's look at this example of stacking. At first, how looks a sphere close to the equator? well, the stacking is rather easy there. Think of each printed wall as a rectangular crossection and you get this pattern:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WbsFP.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WbsFP.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As we move further up along the print, the overlap between each subsequent layer gets less and less. Somewhere in the middle we are at this situation:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iy609.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iy609.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Till at the top of the dome this happens: The steps appear coarser and coarser and in the end create a very visible and feelable stepping pattern. Also, the top layer might get skipped because it is not a full layer height, depending on the slicer settings..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nS9vT.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nS9vT.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Mitigating?&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But there are ways to mitigate the sphere problem to some degree.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;reduce layer height a lot on the areas that are curved such heavily, though this has a direct effect on print time and can impact the quality.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Don't use an FDM printer but an SLS printer with layer heights that are fractions of the layer heights possible with FDM&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cut up your sphere. An example cut up is &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/7749/how-could-i-print-a-large-sphere-like-object/7750#7750&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;, but there are other options. If your print orientation is not mandatory, you can even cut your sphere up and reorient it to achieve this, mitigating both the layer problem as well as making support use 0:&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ehNso.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ehNso.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Post-Processing&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only true way to get rid of the layer lines is post processing. In this case I strongly suggest to use a filler and then sand off the excess material.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2022-04-11T15:45:57.303" LastActivityDate="2022-04-11T15:45:57.303" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13919" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13915" CreationDate="2020-06-21T15:54:09.340" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;While Trish is completely right that the roughness can't be completely eliminated (you can't print a perfect spherical surface with discrete layers), the situation can be improved dramatically. The most telling photo in your question is the one of the removed support structure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The part of your sphere that's seriously rough is all severe overhang. In this region, the outer wall of layer N+1 barely overlaps the outer wall of layer N, if at all, and without support would be printed mostly or entirely over thin air, failing to attach to anything and sagging/curling down randomly according to tensions in the extruded material, air currents, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, with support material that's not entirely the case. Every so often (looks like a 2 mm grid) there are support lines under the overhanging outer wall. These will anchor it every so often and keep it from curling or sagging too much, but they don't actually constrain it to the place the slicer wanted the wall to go, and they don't provide a surface for the extruded material to press against to get the desired (e.g. 0.4 mm wide by 0.1 mm thick) extrusion cross section; instead the cross section will tend to be circular as a result of tensions within the molten material.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In order to get a decent surface over support material, you need what slicers call &amp;quot;Support Interface&amp;quot; or &amp;quot;Support Roof&amp;quot; (these are the names Cura uses; I suspect it's similar in Prusa Slicer). This feature builds a top surface as part of the support material itself for the supported part of the model to rest upon and press against. Of course that can make support harder (potentially a lot harder) to remove, and depends on tuning the Z distance between the model and the support as a tradeoff between quality and difficulty of removal, but it should get you much better results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2020-06-21T15:54:09.340" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13921" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-06-21T19:43:49.413" Score="3" ViewCount="7290" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tcLgq.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tcLgq.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;damage&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Hyr7P.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Hyr7P.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;damage&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just got an Ender 3 a week ago. This is my first 3D printer. On the 5th print the object ended up tearing away the surface of the print bed such that it's no longer usable. Trying to work out if this is something that I did wrong or if this is faulty material or a combination of the two?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To set the print head I watched a few tutorials and carefully followed the instructions checking the height with a piece of paper at each corner and in the center and repeated this until it was set.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I watched a couple more tutorials on how to remove the pieces from the bed. I have been removing the top sheet from the print bed by detaching the paper clips. Using the supplied putty knife I've worked around the edges tapping gently with a rubber mallet to get the putty knife under the piece and loosen it before it pops off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Afterwards I've used the putty knife to scrape off any other residue to make sure that the surface is smooth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first 2 prints were with PLA and then the next 3 with PETG. The damage happened when removing a piece printed with PETG.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My specific questions: Is my approach to removing a print incorrect? If so, what would the correct approach be? Did this cause the damage?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21653" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2020-06-21T20:43:23.127" LastActivityDate="2022-06-21T21:34:44.117" Title="Ender 3 print bed damage" Tags="|creality-ender-3|maintenance|replacement-parts|bed|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13922" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13921" CreationDate="2020-06-21T20:51:49.200" Score="9" Body="&lt;h1&gt;Your print surface is destroyed&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, you managed to rip off your print surface in the center. Happened to me too. the corners of my scraper were too sharp, cutting the surface. Another time I did pierce the surface with my nozzle. Damage happens. Replacement surfaces for the Ender3 start at about 5 bucks a piece. So get yourself some spares. &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/7960/how-to-clean-up-my-build-plate-for-a-new-build-surface&quot;&gt;Clean your bed before applying the new one.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Removal process&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To properly remove a print from the bed, grab your scraper blade and do the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sharpen the edge only on &lt;strong&gt;one&lt;/strong&gt; side.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Soften the corners, they should be slightly rouned.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Make sure the scraper is kept sharp.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When removing prints, be slow! Push the scraper against the bed with the bevel upwards. Apply careful pressure till the tip moves just a little. Move to a different spot till the blade slips under a little, then work the scraper left and right. You'll hear a sucking sound, that's the print coming free. It gets much easier if you let the bed cool down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For very tall prints with a relatively small area, you might not need the scraper at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PETG has a tendency to stick too much with glass and fuse with PEI. We don't know if the Build-Tak clone Creality uses contains PEI. I suggest to grab gluestick to add a safety layer for printing PETG.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2022-06-21T21:34:44.117" LastActivityDate="2022-06-21T21:34:44.117" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13923" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-06-22T16:10:13.667" Score="1" ViewCount="54" Body="&lt;p&gt;I disassembled my printer a couple of years ago for a move and now I'm getting back to it and can't find the manual detailing the assembly anywhere and the google drive link is gone. Does anyone have a copy of the PDF somewhere?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21662" LastActivityDate="2021-02-25T04:19:47.830" Title="Creatorbot-3D Kickstarter assembly instructions" Tags="|diy-3d-printer|3d-printerworks|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13924" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13913" CreationDate="2020-06-22T19:08:58.680" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If acetone resistance is what you are after, try PETG:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&amp;quot;While the chemical resistance of PETG is one of its most desirable characteristics, it is also one of the reasons why smoothing PETG prints is challenging. Since dissolving PETG with a solvent, smoothing via solvent application (like acetone smoothing for ABS) is not a very good option.&amp;quot;&#xA;See 2. Chemical Resistance in &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dinsider.com/how-to-smooth-petg-prints/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://3dinsider.com/how-to-smooth-petg-prints/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15075" LastActivityDate="2020-06-22T19:08:58.680" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13925" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6051" CreationDate="2020-06-22T19:50:56.663" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hello I have had the same issue, fluctuating thermistor temperature, all of them. Discarding the board, and accessories setup (loose the heater, thermistor and so on) the problem was on the PSU. When I have opened the PSU and touched gently all the parts  then closed again and connected it to the printer: temperature readings were stable egain, however just for a time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fluctuations of temperature due to heating have in general low frequencies due to the heat transport phenomena in material such as plastic and metals especially if the amount of metal material is of the order of 100 grams.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Changes over the time with supplied power of about 500 watt over 100 grams of metal and plastic flow of a fewer grams per minute, seldom, cant cause temporal fluctuations  in frequencies of the order of electrical fluctuations. It's possible but not in 3D printing case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21664" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-06-23T10:33:25.117" LastActivityDate="2020-06-23T10:33:25.117" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13926" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13906" CreationDate="2020-06-22T20:03:13.980" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can you tell if the fans are turning on for your Ender 3? If not then the problem may be with your power supply or main board. If you can hear your power supply is on (listen for the fan near where you plug in the 120/230 V power plug), then the issue may be with either your main board or LCD screen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/comments/9n85rv/creality_3d_universal_lcd_12864_cr10ender3_pcb/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;post on reddit is&lt;/a&gt; accurate, the Ender 3 uses a standard Reprap 12864 LCD module. If you have a breadboard and a 5 volt power source, you can try connecting &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.engineersgarage.com/knowledge_share/128x64-graphical-lcd/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;pin 1 to the power supply and pin 2 to the ground&lt;/a&gt;. If the LCD turns on then the issue is most likely with the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.creality3d.shop/products/creality3d-1-1-4-mainboard-for-ender-3-ender-3-pro-ender-5&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;main board&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively, @0scar♦ suggestion is good too, a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32883863491.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;cheap LCD screen&lt;/a&gt; can potentially save a bunch of diagnostic time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://wiki.fysetc.com/Mini12864_Panel/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Pin Diagram for 12864 LCD Panel&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/em&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://wiki.fysetc.com/images/Mini12864-EXP1.svg&quot; alt=&quot;Pin diagram for 12864 LCD Screen:&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14562" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-06-23T06:12:25.530" LastActivityDate="2020-06-23T06:12:25.530" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13928" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8616" CreationDate="2020-06-22T23:42:35.197" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Other answers include good estimates, and show that for one printer the electricity costs are not very significant. If you are using many printers and want a concrete answer, then it would be wise to purchase a power monitor (for continuous monitoring) or multimeter with clamp.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With a clamp-on multimeter, you can clamp the meter on to the 3D printer's plug and read the Amps being drawn. Assuming a 120 VAC single phase supply (typical for North America), the power consumption is 120 VAC multiplied by the Amps drawn by the 3D printer (P=VI), which you can read from the multimeter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The amps drawn by the 3D printer will vary throughout your print, but for a longer print, you should be able to get a good average amps read during a middle print layer. Total energy cost of printing per day would then be:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt; C = (V*I/1000)*t*E*n&#xA;&#xA;     C, Total printer energy costs per day (&lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$/day) &#xA;     V, AC Voltage (V)&#xA;     I, Average current draw during print (Amps)&#xA;     t, time printers are running per day (Hours/day)&#xA;     E, Energy cost from utility ($&lt;/span&gt;/kWh)&#xA;     n, number of printers&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21668" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-06-23T10:41:35.227" LastActivityDate="2020-06-23T10:41:35.227" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13929" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-06-23T08:59:07.580" Score="0" ViewCount="352" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a botObject printer that was discontinued that I want to run using a RAMPS 1.4 board. The bed leveling was done by the print nozzle being pushed down on the spring loaded bed and then the stepper will turn the cam to lock it, this will be repeated at 3 positions on the bed. I want to use one of my extruder outputs to drive the stepper but still need a limit switch to home the cam. I am not a programmer so need assistance with the setup in Marlin  &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/G60Mu.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/G60Mu.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;lock can system&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21671" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-06-23T11:47:18.690" LastActivityDate="2020-06-23T11:47:18.690" Title="Auto bed leveling with stepper motor lock" Tags="|bed-leveling|ramps-1.4|extruder-driver|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13930" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7713" CreationDate="2020-06-23T09:44:42.140" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's already Arduino inside the printer (to be precise: the printer board with spare pins). Im sure its possible to hook up a switch then change firmware to send G-codes; 1 pin per series of commands?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21672" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-06-23T10:39:12.380" LastActivityDate="2020-06-23T10:39:12.380" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13931" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14133" CreationDate="2020-06-23T13:38:58.787" Score="3" ViewCount="3704" Body="&lt;p&gt;Printing supports, either complete, or partially from PVA have not always resulted in successful prints according to my experience with the filament (used in a dual extruder Ultimaker 3 extended). But, when it works well, the surface finish is perfect as there is no gap between the PVA and PLA.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From my experience with PVA, I conclude it is prone to clog, the filament is very hygroscopic, resulting in popping sounds when printing if too moist which most probably also impacts on clogging. The clogs lead to failed support structures as the extruder grinds through the filament and as such failed prints.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was wondering if PETG can be used for supports or for the interface layer of supports for printing supports for PLA prints? For example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1ysAhm.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Non scaffolding support structure&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1ysAhm.png&quot; alt=&quot;Non scaffolding support structure&quot; title=&quot;Non scaffolding support structure&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Zk35Cm.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Non scaffolding support structure in material color&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Zk35Cm.png&quot; alt=&quot;Non scaffolding support structure in material color&quot; title=&quot;Non scaffolding support structure in material color&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a sliced view of a print in line color (left or top on small screens) and material color (right or bottom on small screens); black PLA and cream colored PETG. This print contains a larger gap that needs support. Can you make the support from PETG, either the support as a whole or just the top interface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How does PLA-PETG or PETG-PLA bond or stick considering the 2 different print temperatures?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What are the concerns using a single nozzle?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-07-25T11:32:32.227" LastActivityDate="2020-08-15T11:15:29.253" Title="Can PETG be used as support material for PLA?" Tags="|pla|support-structures|petg|support-material|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13932" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-06-23T14:32:59.210" Score="1" ViewCount="43" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am planning to install a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4138933&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;filament diameter sensor&lt;/a&gt; to my printer, but that sensor measures only one diameter. If the filament is not round, an additional error will be introduced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How round are common filaments? How bad can I expect a filament to be? I mean what are bad values actually measured?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2338" LastActivityDate="2020-06-23T14:32:59.210" Title="How round are filaments?" Tags="|filament-quality|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13933" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13934" CreationDate="2020-06-23T17:10:58.707" Score="1" ViewCount="526" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a recently purchased Ender 3 Pro, and it may well already have a bootloader on it. I don't have the various adapters to flash one yet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it destructive to try flashing over USB without the bootloader? Does it fail in a non destructive way?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have watch some tutorials which claim that it's fine to just try it, but I'd like to be more sure about that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="112" LastActivityDate="2021-10-31T08:56:25.027" Title="Will I brick my Ender 3 if I try flashing without a bootloader?" Tags="|creality-ender-3|firmware|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13934" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13933" CreationDate="2020-06-23T19:11:17.523" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;My understanding is that if there is no bootloader, you can't flash over USB; you need an ISP programmer attached to the board. So if you're able to flash over USB, that means there is a bootloader, and updating via the bootloader should leave the bootloader in place and just overwrite the rest of the firmware. I'm not sure how strongly this is enforced, though, so you may want to wait for supporting comments/answers from others.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course it's always possible to damage your printer in ways that require replacement of the board or at least some parts on it if you flash &lt;em&gt;bad firmware&lt;/em&gt;, so you need to be cautious anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2020-06-23T19:11:17.523" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13935" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4826" CreationDate="2020-06-23T20:00:06.277" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;To supplement the accepted answer, and answer a question in the answer's comments (which should not be there), consider the E value as another axis - the axis of the filament.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you executed:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;G92 E0     ; Reset the extruder's origin&#xA;G1 F200 E3 ; Extrude 3 millimetres of filament at a rate of 200 units per second&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and then went on to printing, the first filament move would have to take you from E3 to whatever E value the next move specified.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the next move assumed starting at E0, you'd already be 3 mm further along, and the first move would probably be a retract, so for example, if the next printing move was:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;G1 Xnnn Ynnn E0.5 ; Extrude 0.5 millimetres of filament&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;then &lt;strong&gt;instead of extruding 0.5 mm, you would actually retract 2.5 mm&lt;/strong&gt;, to get from 3.0 to 0.5. Just like moving in a negative direction on any other axis.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4922" LastEditorUserId="4922" LastEditDate="2020-08-10T17:27:32.547" LastActivityDate="2020-08-10T17:27:32.547" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13936" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3661" CreationDate="2020-06-23T20:56:18.037" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Actually the answer is yes and no. So I had to print 12 of the same small objects for a science experiment. Just some rocks I made from domes with some displaced faces, anyway my printers minimum wall width is 0.5 mm. The objects were 2 cm³. The first print failed because of them being disconnected but then I connected the 12 items by 1×1×5 mm solidified cylinders in blender and ran it through my cutter and it printed no problem. Afterwards I jusy clipped off the cylinder and was good to go. Just make sure you're object is connected at every point facing another.  Based on your picture it should be connected something like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mEYHE.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21679" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-06-24T05:34:25.577" LastActivityDate="2020-06-24T05:34:25.577" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13937" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13938" CreationDate="2020-06-24T01:37:39.060" Score="0" ViewCount="67" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've seen there are several different types of source material for 3D printing. My question is: Which of those would hold up under regular Loctite superglue or plastic model glue?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm asking because I want to try 3D printing, and I have a project in mind. But I don't want to spend too much, so I'm looking to get a small 3D printer. I want to make a clock, and I can design the step down gears to make in a small printer, but I'd need a large base for so many smaller gears. I want to print pieces of the base, and superglue them together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21682" LastEditorUserId="21682" LastEditDate="2020-06-26T03:46:49.247" LastActivityDate="2020-06-26T03:46:49.247" Title="3D printing source material and superglue" Tags="|3d-design|print-material|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13938" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13937" CreationDate="2020-06-24T04:36:25.147" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;CA glue works on PLA, especially if you're gluing parts that fit together rather than small surfaces that just touch, but I'd encourage you to consider alternatives just because there are so many more ways to attach things when you have freedom to design the parts, and non-glue approaches admit disassembly, repair, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some possibilities include:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;snap fits&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;parts sliding into grooves&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;threaded holes and bolts&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;threaded interfaces.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2020-06-24T04:36:25.147" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13940" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13966" CreationDate="2020-06-24T10:22:15.940" Score="10" ViewCount="4221" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm having an issue where prints with narrow tolerance come out fused. This makes it pretty much impossible to print anything with narrow parts. It seems to be mostly (maybe only) an issue in the bottom skin layers. Once it gets through those, the rest of the print goes smoothly and tight tolerances are not a problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's an example where I've tried to print some hinges:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NrtaB.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NrtaB.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;First three layers&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's a test print where each hinge has a different tolerance, so the left and right are expected to look different. Below each real image is a preview layer from Cura showing how it's supposed to look.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first layer appears OK. The second layer looks a little messy, and the gap between inner and outer circles has shrunk. By the third layer the hinge on the right is completely fused.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The printer is an Ender 3 Pro with a glass bed (flat glass, no special surface), BLTouch, and Marlin 1.1.9. The slicer is Cura 4.6.1, and for this test print I used the default for &amp;quot;Super Quality - 0.12 mm&amp;quot; at 200 °C and 60 °C bed with no changes. The filament is Mika3D PLA.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some things I've tried to fix this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Calibrated e-steps (currently set at 95.88) - no noticeable difference&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Calibrated flow rate (got 97.859 % but returned to 100 % for this test) - no noticeable difference&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Varying temperatures from 190 to 230 °C by 5 °C increments - no improvement from 200 °C&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Set &amp;quot;Initial Layer Horizontal Expansion&amp;quot; to -0.1 mm, -0.4 mm, and -1.0 mm in Cura. - no improvement.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Set &amp;quot;Initial Layer Flow&amp;quot; to 90 %. - no improvement.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Obsessively leveled and re-leveled the bed. - no improvement.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Moved the Z-offset up and down to get more or less squish on the first layer - no improvement.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tried various brands and colors of PLA - problem is consistent.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Reduced build plate temperature to 45 °C after initial layer - no improvement.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What else is there to check?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit 2020-06-26:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At &lt;code&gt;R.. GitHub STOP HELPING ICE&lt;/code&gt;'s suggestion I returned the e-steps to default (93), re-leveled the bed, and adjusted the z-offset tighter. I made 10 attempts with varying z-offsets, and here's the best one:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bRrSW.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bRrSW.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;First three layers with e-steps at 93&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first layer looks better! But the second and third layers are just as bad as before, in fact maybe worse. The circle on the right completely fused on only the second layer. And the top surface is just as ripple-ey and messed up as before.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a closeup of the fourth layer to show how bad it is:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Z7MvW.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Z7MvW.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Fourth layer&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So although the re-calibrated e-steps may have been &lt;em&gt;a&lt;/em&gt; problem, that clearly wasn't the only problem. What else should I be looking at here?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit 2020-06-27:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At &lt;code&gt;Davo&lt;/code&gt;'s suggestion I double-checked all my slicer settings. Flow is set to 100% everywhere, wall thickness is 0.8 mm for two walls (so 0.4 mm each), and nozzle diameter is correct at 0.4 mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At &lt;code&gt;R.. GitHub STOP HELPING ICE&lt;/code&gt;s suggestion I double-checked my filament diameter. It is set to 1.75 mm. On the actual filament, my digital caliper measures 1.74 to 1.76, within the expected tolerance. So that doesn't appear to be the issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At &lt;code&gt;0scar♦&lt;/code&gt;s suggestion I tried a print with 0.2 mm layer height. Here's the first layer:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sFOUo.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sFOUo.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;0.2 mm layer height, first layer&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;Looks like the same over-extrusion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then I tried reducing the flow multiplier to 90% (for both &amp;quot;flow&amp;quot; and &amp;quot;initial layer flow&amp;quot;) and printing at 0.2 mm layer height:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8oloh.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8oloh.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;90% flow with 0.2 mm layer height&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;Better, but it &lt;em&gt;still&lt;/em&gt; looks over-extruded!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know what else to try.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16902" LastEditorUserId="16902" LastEditDate="2020-06-27T11:28:13.840" LastActivityDate="2022-01-17T22:48:47.337" Title="Expansion in bottom skin after first layer" Tags="|pla|creality-ender-3|calibration|glass-bed|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13941" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3661" CreationDate="2020-06-24T13:36:10.077" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It generally takes &lt;strong&gt;longer&lt;/strong&gt; to complete the actual prints because of extra travel moves, but it &lt;strong&gt;does save you time&lt;/strong&gt; in one important way: if you trust your printer, you can start a large batch and then just &lt;em&gt;walk away&lt;/em&gt;. Instead of resetting every hour or so, you can come back after several hours, or over night.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this way, printing in batches can allow you to put more items through your printer in the same amount of time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12562" LastEditorUserId="12562" LastEditDate="2020-06-27T15:11:06.597" LastActivityDate="2020-06-27T15:11:06.597" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13942" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3661" CreationDate="2020-06-24T15:27:16.197" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It will save you and the machine time if done properly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Simplify 3D has a setting that lets you do multiple layers at once; as most slicers do. Therefore if the part is 10cm tall, then you can set it to move to the next one after 10 cm. The machine would then build each one in turn on the build plate in sequence. You won't have to remove the parts very often, and the machine won't have to take the time to heat up after each print. If done incorrectly, as in moving from one part to another for each layer, then yes it will require a large number of slow retraction and Z-axis moves, costing you more overall time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12857" LastActivityDate="2020-06-24T15:27:16.197" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13943" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13940" CreationDate="2020-06-24T17:46:00.553" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;OK, let's start with your pictures. Putting aside the expansion in the XY plane, layer 1 looks seriously underextruded (gaps between the lines, even) while layers 2 and 3 look severely overextruded. It would be possible to achieve this with a reduced first-layer flow setting, but you haven't indicated that, and moreover, in addition to looking underextruded, the first layer's lines don't look very flat - they look a lot thicker than 0.12 mm. I suspect if you can take a caliper with resolution greater than 0.1 mm and measure the thickness of the first layer, you'll find it's at least 0.2 mm thick, maybe more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, what's happening? You're overextruding by &lt;strong&gt;a lot&lt;/strong&gt;, but have lowered your bed enough to (more than) compensate, giving the excess material in the first layer a whole 0.2 mm or more of vertical space to expand into, preventing it from being pressed against the bed and taking up the horizontal space it should. Now, as soon as you start the next layer, the big problems start. Since the nozzle has only moved up by 0.12 mm, you only have 0.12 mm of vertical space, and the overextruded material gets squeezed out horizontally. Some of it goes down into the gaps between the lines of the first layer. But by the time you get to layer 3, there are no gaps and things go really bad.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What's the source of the overextrusion? Your &amp;quot;esteps calibration&amp;quot;. This is not a number you need to calibrate. It's a function of the extruder gear, and for the Ender 3's (including the Pro's) factory gear it's 93.0 (*).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After you fix the overextrusion by putting esteps back to the right value, you're going to need to re-level your bed. If you use the paper method, make sure there is significant tension on the paper and it does not slide freely under the nozzle at Z=0. If prefer using real metal feeler gauges and moving the nozzle to Z=0.1 to level. (You mentioned that you have BLtouch, which I'm not familiar with, but as I understand it you still need to calibrate it due to possible difference in sensor height and nozzle tip height.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(*) Note that for compressible filaments like TPU and to a lesser extent PETG, compression of the filament in the gear will alter the effective steps per mm of (uncompressed) filament moved. However, rather than modifying your firmware esteps setting for this, it makes a lot more sense to model that as either a flow adjustment percentage or a narrower filament diameter (since essentially that's what it is -- the filament becomes narrower at the point of measurement), since slicing software supports adjustment of these per-material. So, don't touch esteps unless you replaced extruder hardware.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2020-06-24T17:46:00.553" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13944" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13856" CreationDate="2020-06-24T18:10:58.173" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Finally, I solved all faillures today.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;-When the bed is too close from the hotend:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I cheat the machine with a cutter patterns board over the bed at the first extruder calibration; the distance increases several times and then You can do it shorter.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YiAKm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YiAKm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;-The another half part of bad quality [low maintenance of the hotend]:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a good newbie, I didn't know the periods of maintenance and the hotend had much plastic waste the PTFE tube welded and burned at internal, so the only option was to replace it for another same or to upgrade to &amp;quot;All Metal&amp;quot;; I chosen to upgrade with the replacement and I'll more maintenance to this zone.&#xA;&lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/G04dj9DcJUI?start=0&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JWcPn.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JWcPn.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First attempt of trial piece:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WbPfY.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WbPfY.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;...PANIC!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But then and FINALLY!&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/g8ri1.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/g8ri1.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;Almost all correct, I can continue with my printings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;THANKS SO MUCH TO ALL, for your apportations and patience.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21537" LastActivityDate="2020-06-24T18:10:58.173" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13945" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13947" CreationDate="2020-06-24T18:12:01.233" Score="3" ViewCount="5254" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a model that's placed on the bed exactly like on this picture:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hDTcF.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hDTcF.png&quot; alt=&quot;sample model placement&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have constant quality degradation as the bed moves down to print in the upper left corner &lt;strong&gt;(1)&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Everything is fine on the X &lt;strong&gt;(2)-(3)&lt;/strong&gt; side. It does not have any visible artifacts. All hell goes along the &lt;strong&gt;(1)-(3)&lt;/strong&gt; curve:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.imgur.com/EvgyKFi.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.imgur.com/EvgyKFi.png&quot; alt=&quot;hell lines&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Top left corner &lt;strong&gt;(1)&lt;/strong&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oPGTi.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oPGTi.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;top left corner&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the way from &lt;strong&gt;(1)&lt;/strong&gt; to &lt;strong&gt;(2)&lt;/strong&gt; lines seem to disappear almost completely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I used Cura slicer and these printing settings:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;stock ender firmware&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;0.2 mm layer height&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;supports&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2 bottom &amp;amp; top layers&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;PETG 235 °C nozzle&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;80 °C bed&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;walls x2&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;10 % infill gyroid&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;ironing&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;seam smart hiding&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;50 mm/s print speed&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;500 / 50 mm/s^2 acceleration / jerks&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It looks like a mechanical issue, so I tried tightening/untightening bed bolts. It didn't help. They are a little bit tight, but not too much. The bed does not seem to be wobbling. Also, I tried the bed for wobbling in its top/bottom position. It looks fine along all the way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What should I try next?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Extruder steps/mm are tweaked for this filament. Extruder produces exactly 97 mm of 100 mm of filament.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;UPD&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I decided to change my software/hardware settings step by step. This time I changed only my software settings to these:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Speed: 30 mm/s&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Acceleration: 3000 mm/s^2&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Retract: 4 mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Combing: Not in Skin (previous print had the same value)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Overhanging wall speed 100% (same as the previous print)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Corners have become much sharper and there is a lot less of bulging on the arc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cpPQU.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cpPQU.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;arc&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, by X-axis &lt;strong&gt;(2) - (3)&lt;/strong&gt; I see more artifacts:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zh7MP.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zh7MP.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;x-axis bottom&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Y-axis has become better:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vMuZ5.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vMuZ5.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;y-axis bottom&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Currently, I don't have any visible or sensible bed / X play. I tuned rollers to have enough tension not to slip if rotate them separately. So, if I rotate the roller, it moves the whole bed or X carriage. I'll try increasing the tension a little bit and then I'll share the result.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;UPD2&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've made belts a little bit tighter and decided to print a new model. The layer height is 0.3 mm. Also, I tried increasing temperature up to &lt;strong&gt;240 °C&lt;/strong&gt; and changed the stock vent with a circular vent. The wall count is 50 to make the model solid. Coasting is off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3UgZQ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3UgZQ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;x-axis&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OZnsB.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OZnsB.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;x-axis curve&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now all artifacts are along the X-axis. There are many fewer of them at (1) than at (2). The model is a doorstep. On the build plate it's placed like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lYrF9.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lYrF9.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;doorstep build plate placement&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now I think the problem has nothing to do with X/Y play and these two factors can be eliminated. I'll revert belt tensions back to their previous values and decrease the printing temperature down to 225-230 °C.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PS. USBASP is still in customs, so I'm doing all this on the stock firmware.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;UPD3&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have finally figured out what was wrong. It was insufficient Z-belt tension on both sides. A close look at a DSLR camera shot gave me a clue: there was almost always a straight segment followed by a visible additional step down between layers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are still some artifacts but everything looks relatively tolerable now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ynYBN.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ynYBN.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;after z-axis has been fixed&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks to all of you guys!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21691" LastEditorUserId="21691" LastEditDate="2020-06-27T18:19:22.240" LastActivityDate="2020-06-27T18:19:22.240" Title="Visible lines along Y-axis on Ender 3 Pro" Tags="|print-quality|creality-ender-3|petg|y-axis|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13946" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13945" CreationDate="2020-06-24T20:20:55.597" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I see some possible issues at work here:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Retraction issues on the arc. You might need to decrease your retraction length a little.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your bed might have a little play. tighten the eccentric nuts a tiny bit.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;As you are at it, check your X-belt, because accuracy on the Y move is affected by the accuracy of the X-head's position.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastActivityDate="2020-06-24T20:20:55.597" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13947" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13945" CreationDate="2020-06-24T21:04:12.710" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a lot of different print quality problems going on here, but the biggest I see is the bulging and sagging at the corners of each layer. This is a result of extrusion not being a zero-delay linear function of extruder motor motion, but subject to compression/pressure. This causes excess extrusion when printing slows down (approaching and rounding a corner) and underextrusion just after speeding back up. There are several possible fixes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Upgrade to firmware with &lt;a href=&quot;https://marlinfw.org/docs/features/lin_advance.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Linear Advance&lt;/a&gt; and calibrate it for your material. I find PETG needs about K=1.4 on an Ender 3.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Increase your acceleration limits (up to 3000 mm/s² should be ok for Ender 3) so that far less time is spent moving slow. You need to adjust the per-axis limits in config menu, not just the single acceleration setting in your slicer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Decrease your print speed so that there's less difference in cornering speed and nominal speed (50 mm/s is too high for PETG anyway in my experience; you'll get underextrusion and bad layer bonding).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also make sure you don't have your slicer set to slowdown on overhangs, as it makes this phenomenon &lt;strong&gt;far&lt;/strong&gt; worse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other surface artifacts I'm less sure about, and you should probably look for other answers about resolving them. Trish is right that the lines look like a retraction problem - material intended to be there got lost somewhere else. It's probably due to combing (skipping retraction inside the model and letting material ooze out there). I would set combing to &amp;quot;not in skin&amp;quot; and set the max combing distance to something very small (around or slightly less than 1 mm) and see if that fixes the problem. Combing is especially bad with PETG in my experience.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2020-06-24T21:04:12.710" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13948" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-06-25T01:02:51.430" Score="2" ViewCount="3283" Body="&lt;p&gt;Whenever the print reaches a layer with top/solid infill, it bulges out. It is not on the same layer for every print, which rules out Z-binding. Here are things I have tried:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Different slicers&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Updated firmware&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Smaller K value for linear advance&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lower temperature&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Slower walls and top layers&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;More perimeters&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tightened belts&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Different filaments&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Different jerk and acceleration values&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My problem is similar to what these people are experiencing: &lt;a href=&quot;https://forum.prusaprinters.org/forum/original-prusa-i3-mk3s-mk3-how-do-i-print-this-printing-help/buldge-when-print-reaches-solid-layers/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://forum.prusaprinters.org/forum/original-prusa-i3-mk3s-mk3-how-do-i-print-this-printing-help/buldge-when-print-reaches-solid-layers/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These pictures show my problem. The lip in the second picture is supposed to be parallel with the body of the model, not stick out to the right like in the picture.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/75WI2.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/75WI2.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Pic of bulge from an angle&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Uukoy.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Uukoy.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Another angle&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21696" LastActivityDate="2021-03-13T08:32:42.440" Title="Top Layer/Solid Infill Bulge" Tags="|print-quality|troubleshooting|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13949" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13948" CreationDate="2020-06-25T01:27:39.610" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure about other slicers, but Cura has an option called Skin Overlap that defaults to 5% and causes excess material to be extruded beyond what actually fits in the skin (top/bottom &amp;quot;solid infill&amp;quot; surface) area. If you only have a few top layers it probably won't push the outer walls out and will just build up a rough top surface, but with more than a couple it's likely to start making the walls bulge out because there's nowhere else for the excess material to go. I've gotten dramatically better print quality since turning this setting off (0) and doing the same for Infill Overlap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2020-06-25T01:27:39.610" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13950" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-06-25T01:58:12.597" Score="0" ViewCount="166" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Cartesian printers, the extruder is moving along the X axis, Y axis and/or Z axis. Every axes has its own resolution, this is the minimum length that is possible to achieve in that axis and is related with the number of steps that the stepper motors can do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aaLgTm.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aaLgTm.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FMiW9m.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FMiW9m.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, if we trace the solid figure with the minimum volume that the printer can achieve based on its axis resolutions we obtained some sort of a cuboid&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The length of the cuboid in X is the resolution of the printer in the X axis, the same logic applies for Y axis and Z axis.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the figure it is possible to see 27 (3x3x3) cuboids genarated:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1LihU.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1LihU.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;if the resolution of the printer in X axis is 0.1 mm, in the Y axis: 0.1 mm and in the Z axis: 0.1 mm, the volume of these cuboids is going to be 0.1 mm x 0.1 mm x 0.1 mm&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, consider a Delta printer:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RDxOom.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RDxOom.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the solid figure with the minimun volume that can be traced with it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1814" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-07-25T07:43:25.533" LastActivityDate="2020-07-25T07:45:15.253" Title="Minimum Solid Figure traced by a Delta 3D Printer" Tags="|delta|resolution|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13951" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13950" CreationDate="2020-06-25T03:23:14.760" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think you misunderstand. It's the nozzle width and extruder step size, not the axis step sizes, that limit detail. Positioning resolution on a typical printer is on the order of 0.01 mm, but nozzle size is at least 0.1 mm and typically 0.4 mm. Also, lack of perfect rigidity in the mechanical parts will produce gradually increasing error as you try to go smaller and smaller in detail. So, it really makes no difference to the achievable detail whether the printer is a Cartesian or a Delta.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-07-25T07:45:15.253" LastActivityDate="2020-07-25T07:45:15.253" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13957" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-06-26T16:10:14.930" Score="0" ViewCount="37" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm wondering if anyone can confirm this improves the success rate of the first layer by doing this before starting print.  My case is using ABS with a Reprap.  In may work on other 3D printers and materials.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Heat up the bed and extruder to the starting temperature long enough to stabilize, so that the printer sets a more accurate z-height at the start.  While your printer may wait until temperatures are reached, it will usually start immediately without waiting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;After the extruder reaches starting temperature, wait until the filament material stops extruding from the extruder. Remove extruded material.  This reduces failures due to material extruding before the print, but after the start, ending up in the wrong place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15075" LastEditorUserId="15075" LastEditDate="2020-06-26T16:24:32.953" LastActivityDate="2020-06-26T22:50:33.770" Title="Some procedures to improve 1st layer" Tags="|print-preparation|stability|start|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13958" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-06-26T18:00:20.187" Score="0" ViewCount="192" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/X2P4b.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/X2P4b.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Lean in the +Y&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;I can print single, large, complex parts with multiple towers with long travels between them and nothing leans. So pretty sure it is not belt tension, lash, or slop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I add a second part to the build plate, there will be leaning. It starts leaning with the very first layers.&#xA;When I print the same parts one at a time and they do not lean.&#xA;(notable exception) If I add 2 parts to the plate, and then delete the first, and print just the second, it leans.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any suggestions on how to move forward from here? I am stumped.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21712" LastEditorUserId="21712" LastEditDate="2020-06-27T21:53:51.653" LastActivityDate="2020-06-27T21:53:51.653" Title="Ender 5 pro , prints lean, but only when multiple parts are printed (almost)" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|creality-ender-5|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13959" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13957" CreationDate="2020-06-26T22:50:33.770" Score="1" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You don't get a more accurate Z height when you heat the printer and let it settle. You get a different value that will work perfectly. E.g. I've got printers that do bed leveling cold but print with the correct initial Z height to get a perfect first layer. This is also valid for manually trammed beds. The only settling you might need if for thick glass beds so that the heat can be spread evenly, but operating thick glass beds I've never had to settle the bed, just heat up and start. But since ABS is prone to shrink, heating the bed first and then the hotend might prove valuable, at the time the hotend reaches it's temperature, the bed had time to evenly distribute the heat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Oozing isn't good, maybe retracting filament at the end of a print might stop oozing for the next print. Most higher end printers therefore have a purge/prime, wipe and retract procedure prior to printing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2020-06-26T22:50:33.770" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13960" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8022" CreationDate="2020-06-27T12:25:21.883" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I too have a TEVO Tarantula Pro, two infact, the both did this out of the box (so to say).&#xA;I think I just solved it for me.&#xA;The comment above from Robet made me remember there was a small O-ring washer placed inside the flexi coupler when I built the printers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The O-ring is the exact height of my first layer issues.&#xA;I removed it and made sure that the motor shaft and the lead screw made hard contact. (Yes, I know thats not how they are meant to be, but all my previous printers are like that and they are fine). Even stretching the flexi coupler a few mm before clamping it to the lead screw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And now my issue is completely fixed!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pwRQI.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pwRQI.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XVtCc.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XVtCc.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21717" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-04-07T20:57:43.703" LastActivityDate="2021-04-07T20:57:43.703" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13961" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14146" CreationDate="2020-06-27T15:53:20.677" Score="0" ViewCount="649" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is regarding the circuit of my 3D printer Tronxy X5SA's stepper motor for X axis.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;I had an observation:&lt;/strong&gt; It has a cooling fan (40X10 24V) which is having issues lately - it stops working sometimes, and when pushed to rotate, spins back.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Problem:&lt;/strong&gt; Now one of the stepper motors (NEMA 17 ~3.5kgfcm) in my core XY has been malfunctioning, where it misses rotation sometimes out of the blue, which shifts the whole print. I thought this is due to the driver limiting the current to the motor, so I rotated the screw terminal clockwise a bit more to allow more current for the motor. This works fine for a while, but the problem comes back.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, I also noticed a few times that this issue occurred when the cooling fan for the drivers stopped working.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can the stopping of the cooling fan cause the stepper motor to falter?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another observation is that the stepper motor which is faltering is placed close to another stepper motor. Although I know stepper motors can work in extreme conditions, can this cause the issue?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you require any more info to investigate the issue, please do let me know&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5816" LastActivityDate="2021-12-24T14:23:04.683" Title="X axis stops working sometimes on my Tronxy X5SA" Tags="|stepper-driver|stepper|x-axis|fans|tronxy-x5|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13962" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-06-27T21:01:24.703" Score="2" ViewCount="272" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was attempting to use Slic3r 1.3.0 to print to my Da Vinci Nano, using MiniMover (a replacement for xyzprint) to load the G-code.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The print seemed to be a couple of millimeters off of the bed, but adding neither 2 or -2 offset in Slic3r worked.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Neither did adding the following to the g-code.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;G92 Z2&#xA;G0 Z0&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyone have a solution?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The start of my G-code is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;; generated by Slic3r 1.3.0-dev on 2020-06-28 at 10:37:50&#xA;&#xA;; external perimeters extrusion width = 0.55mm (3.04mm^3/s)&#xA;; perimeters extrusion width = 0.70mm (7.88mm^3/s)&#xA;; infill extrusion width = 0.62mm (9.31mm^3/s)&#xA;; solid infill extrusion width = 0.70mm (2.63mm^3/s)&#xA;; top infill extrusion width = 0.70mm (1.97mm^3/s)&#xA;&#xA;M107 ; disable fan&#xA;M104 S220 ; set temperature&#xA;G28 ; home all axes&#xA;G1 Z5 F5000 ; lift nozzle&#xA;&#xA;; Filament gcode&#xA;&#xA;M109 S220 ; set temperature and wait for it to be reached&#xA;G21 ; set units to millimeters&#xA;G90 ; use absolute coordinates&#xA;M82 ; use absolute distances for extrusion&#xA;G92 E0 ; reset extrusion distance&#xA;G1 Z0.300 F7800.000 ; move to next layer (0)&#xA;G1 E-2.00000 F2400.00000 ; retract extruder 0&#xA;G92 E0 ; reset extrusion distance&#xA;G1 X40.004 Y40.786 Z0.300 F7800.000 ; move to first skirt point&#xA;G1 E2.00000 F2400.00000 ; unretract extruder 0&#xA;G1 F1800&#xA;G1 X41.753 Y39.328 Z0.300 E2.46602 ; skirt&#xA;G1 X45.000 Y38.464 Z0.300 E3.15334 ; skirt&#xA;G1 X75.000 Y38.464 Z0.300 E9.29109 ; skirt&#xA;G1 X77.243 Y38.861 Z0.300 E9.75711 ; skirt&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21721" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-11-25T13:25:36.153" LastActivityDate="2023-04-14T18:03:25.400" Title="Z-offset issues with Slic3r and Da Vinci Nano" Tags="|z-axis|slic3r|print-axis-offset|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13963" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8022" CreationDate="2020-06-27T21:50:17.353" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had this problem as well, the problem is not &lt;em&gt;too much&lt;/em&gt; give on the Z axis, it's that there is not &lt;em&gt;enough&lt;/em&gt; give, so loosen the Z-axis wheels on both sides till you can freely move one of the wheels with your hands.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This solved it for me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21722" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2020-10-31T17:06:18.843" LastActivityDate="2020-10-31T17:06:18.843" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13964" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13961" CreationDate="2020-06-28T04:57:41.210" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It might be cross-talk with back-EMF from the fan confusing the stepper-motor driver. Do the cables run together, and have you tried separating them?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3953" LastActivityDate="2020-06-28T04:57:41.210" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13965" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13962" CreationDate="2020-06-28T10:23:33.237" Score="1" Body="&lt;h1&gt;Behavioral analysis&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To find out what is actually wrong, let's do a simple series of test commands first: a G-code that homes the printhead, moves it up 100 mm (10 cm), then zeroes there, moves up 20 more and back to the new 0 at 100 mm above the bed. Make sure not a single offset is active anywhere when sending/loading the G-code as this is to test for the actual movement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;G28 &#xA;G1 Z100 &#xA;G92 Z0 &#xA;G90 &#xA;G1 Z20 &#xA;G1 Z0&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Measuring the distance to the bed should give us something hopefully close to 100 mm. If it is longer or shorter, we have a problem with the bed position to the endstop, even if the bed itself is level to the machine. A releveling is advised unless there is a reason to home to a position widely outside of the printing height or if leveling proves to be impossible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Why is the error experienced?!&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The culprit seems to be that the Z-offset parameter in slic3r is not updated properly when altering it. I just tested this with a ludicrous offset and it took several saving and slicing attempts to register that Z0 was supposed to be 200 mm over the endstop via the offset setting. Compare these two blocks:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;G90 ; use absolute coordinates&#xA;M82 ; use absolute distances for extrusion&#xA;G92 E0&#xA;G1 Z0.350 F7800.000&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And this one:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;G90 ; use absolute coordinates&#xA;M82 ; use absolute distances for extrusion&#xA;G92 E0&#xA;G1 Z-199.650 F7800.000&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The offset only appears factored in starting with the actual print's G1 commands. But how did I eventually manage to make it update?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Forcing the update&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To force an update of all the settings, I did create a secondary printer profile (just saved the same one and in the new one set the offset back to 0) and then swapped between the two back and forth twice and then the correct offset one. This seems to be a very reliable way to force an update of this setting, as it did register every swap after the first one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Workarounds&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;manual Offsetting via Filament parameter&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But there is a way around that is always taken into account: we can add a custom Filament Start Code, which contains the needed offset under &lt;code&gt;Filament Settings&lt;/code&gt; tab &amp;gt; &lt;code&gt;Custom G-Code&lt;/code&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;G1 Z&amp;lt;offset we need to be exactly at layer 0 height&amp;gt;&#xA;G92 Z0.3&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But this is a rather clumsy way and should only be made if nothing else helps and &lt;strong&gt;not in conjunction with any offset in the machine setting&lt;/strong&gt;!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Tackle the problem by the root&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem isn't usually the offset but a bed leveled to the wrong height. To level the bed the printer should be brought to Z0 via &lt;code&gt;G28&lt;/code&gt; and then leveled again. If this proves futile, setting the offset and forcing an update in slic3r is needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2020-06-28T10:57:05.883" LastActivityDate="2020-06-28T10:57:05.883" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13966" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13940" CreationDate="2020-06-28T13:23:20.983" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think this is resolved. After looking at every conceivable source of over-extrusion and coming up negative, &lt;code&gt;R.. GitHub STOP HELPING ICE&lt;/code&gt; suggested that it might be a mechanical problem in Z axis movement, like in &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/8022/first-3-mm-prints-poorly-then-fine-after-that&quot;&gt;this question&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I checked by leveling the bed and zeroing the Z axis at 0.05 mm above the bed, using a feeler gauge. I gave it the instruction to move the Z axis up by 0.2 mm (to simulate a single layer), then checked it with a 0.25 mm feeler gauge. It did not fit. I raised it .01 mm at a time, and I was not able to insert the gauge until it hit 0.5 mm!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I printed a 20 mm test cube and measured the Z height:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4Lvq2.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4Lvq2.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Initial 20 mm test cube&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At 19.58 mm, it was short. Only a little bit though, which is consistent with Z problems only occurring in the first few layers for some reason.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Based on the advice in the other question, I fiddled with the eccentric nuts on the left and right side of X axis gantry, adjusting them to be tight enough that turning the wheels moves the gantry up and down, but loose enough that I can still turn the wheels if I hold the gantry in place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I checked again with the feeler gauge, and this time the 0.25 mm gauge fit just fine at 0.2 mm. Cool! I printed another test cube and measured:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Yq2zW.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Yq2zW.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Revised 20 mm test cube&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;OK, at 20.06 mm it's not perfect, but it's a lot better. I printed the hinges again:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Q4MYZ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Q4MYZ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Hinges&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Again not perfect, but so much better. And the specific problem of uncontrollable expansion in the 2nd and 3rd layers is totally gone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16902" LastActivityDate="2020-06-28T13:23:20.983" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13968" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-06-28T16:40:47.150" Score="3" ViewCount="1049" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a repair part that I need to print with ABS and I know that I have warping problems with ABS.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm now trying to mitigate this by printing a circle around my object and use more brim. You can consider this as a manually designed skirt, but I want the brim to be on both sides of the skirt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, when slicing the repair part with the ring, I get brim only outside the &amp;quot;skirt&amp;quot;, not inside of it.&#xA;How would I get brim also in the area marked here?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TQiOx.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TQiOx.png&quot; alt=&quot;Add brim here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1570" LastActivityDate="2021-03-25T22:05:35.607" Title="Add brim everywhere, not just around the outermost line" Tags="|slic3r|brims|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13969" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13968" CreationDate="2020-06-28T16:51:03.533" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;When there's a cut in the outer ring (the manual skirt), Slic3r will fill the area as expected:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Lb2np.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Lb2np.png&quot; alt=&quot;Brim in the gap&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1570" LastActivityDate="2020-06-28T16:51:03.533" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13970" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13968" CreationDate="2020-06-28T20:02:29.353" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/t2WwV.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/t2WwV.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Prusa Slicer 2.2.0 in print settings&#xA;skirt and brim, set distance from object to zero&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other slicers should have same capability. As long as you have two parts on the bed that are not distinctly separated, you'll get only one brim.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastEditorUserId="854" LastEditDate="2020-06-28T20:08:05.363" LastActivityDate="2020-06-28T20:08:05.363" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13971" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-06-28T21:45:17.747" Score="2" ViewCount="2759" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've created a case for my Raspberry Pi in Tinkercad and would like to 3d print it. However, I don't know how to create supports! I tried looking it up, but I got a model that I don't know how to import, and some best practices for supports. So how should I create them using Tinkercad?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21730" LastActivityDate="2020-06-29T01:41:21.073" Title="How to create a support structure in tinkercad?" Tags="|3d-models|support-structures|raspberry-pi|tinkercad|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13972" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13978" CreationDate="2020-06-29T00:28:41.437" Score="0" ViewCount="132" Body="&lt;p&gt;When a hole is created for a bolt, it might be &amp;quot;tight&amp;quot;; the intent is for the hole to be tapped. Or it might be &amp;quot;loose&amp;quot;, and the intent is for the bolt to slide into the hole and attached to a nut on the other side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the terminology for these two kinds of holes?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6851" LastActivityDate="2020-06-29T05:16:39.103" Title="Bolt hole terminology for &quot;tight&quot; and &quot;loose&quot; bolt holes" Tags="|terminology|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13973" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13971" CreationDate="2020-06-29T01:41:21.073" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're using the term &amp;quot;supports&amp;quot; to mean the extra material that the 3D printer needs to allow material to be deposited in &amp;quot;mid-air,&amp;quot; your slicer will have a setting that permits this. Knowing which slicer is going to be used would enable someone to advise you directly of the location of the settings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are going to be using a 3D printing service, you need not address those types of supports. The printing service will have qualified operators who will select the correct settings for your specific model.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastActivityDate="2020-06-29T01:41:21.073" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13974" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="513" CreationDate="2020-06-29T01:52:22.217" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Anybody consider using a Grow Box Fan and filter inside an enclosure.  They come cheap with 180 cfm fan and / carbon filters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/16XP7.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/16XP7.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;https://www.amazon.com/iPower-Inline-Variable-Controller-Ventilation/dp/B07D8TZ2KV/ref=sr_1_17?dchild=1&amp;amp;keywords=low+noise+grow+box+fan+kit&amp;amp;qid=1593395416&amp;amp;sr=8-17&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Seems like it would work well, just wondering if they are really noisy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21732" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-06-29T13:51:51.167" LastActivityDate="2020-06-29T13:51:51.167" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13975" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13977" CreationDate="2020-06-29T02:30:05.760" Score="0" ViewCount="168" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm printing with anycubic i3 mega on an ultrabase bed. When I first got the printer the prints were easy to remove from the bed after it cools down, I didn't need to put any extra effort. However after I used 70% isopropyl to clean it it seems I removed some kind of extra coating as all next prints were sticking to the bed firmly even after the bed cools down. So I tried to heat the bed up to 100 degrees and then cool it down and wait until it gets to something like 35, at that point print comes off quite easily (really helped me with some big parts with huge initial layer) so I wonder if I should just add that extra heating cycle to the end of each print job.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any possible problems with that?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PS my understanding is that PLA should be okay with short temperature spike since it is being melted with twice as high heat. However long exposure to that temperature might cause some deformation (eg if I throw the printed part into dishwasher).&#xA;Another possible concern is that extra heating cycle could potentially shorten life of the ultrabase, but not sure if it is the case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;UPDATE&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;so after some experiments I printed at least a dozen calibration cubes adjusting several parameters along the way as it seems each of them contributed to the issue&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I decided to reset initial layer thickness which I noticed was set to &lt;code&gt;0.25&lt;/code&gt; when normal layer was &lt;code&gt;0.2&lt;/code&gt;. Since it was thicker for better adhesion I thought I don't need it since I don't have problem with sticking to the bed :)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;second thing was the flow adjustment and enabling some layer filling settings in cura (filtering small holes etc). Ended up at &lt;code&gt;91%&lt;/code&gt; flow rate which gave me much cleaner top layers as well as the bottom ones.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;and finally I played with &lt;code&gt;Z offset&lt;/code&gt;, I did bed leveling recently so it was flat (did single layer tests to check that) but it might have been a little bit too high, so adding an offset seems like a good way to compensate for it. The thing I was looking after as a feedback here is the squeezing bottom layers issue, so I stopped once I got initial layers a bit smaller than the ones on top, went back a few values and ended up with &lt;code&gt;0.125 mm&lt;/code&gt; which sounds quite big to me but it allowed to get initial layer very clean and consistent with next layer so I think I got it right.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can say it is easier to remove the cube from the bed now (used to be very difficult and I was using a mallet almost every time in the beginning) but it still doesn't come off on its own. I also noticed that now all three dimensions are almost identical (Z was about &lt;code&gt;0.5&lt;/code&gt; less). And all X/Y/Z are ~19mm after cube cools down (the model is 20mm) so I wonder if I need to fix that one now&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21733" LastEditorUserId="21733" LastEditDate="2020-06-29T23:02:57.067" LastActivityDate="2020-06-30T13:04:04.763" Title="Any possible issues with adding heat/cool down cycle in the end of print (PLA)" Tags="|adhesion|anycubic-i3-mega|anycubic-ultrabase|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13977" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13975" CreationDate="2020-06-29T03:09:03.453" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Heating PLA even to 60°C will make it pliable and may affect dimensional accuracy; 100°C is likely to make that severe. Being stuck to the bed and thus constrained by it might help some, but I think it's a bad idea.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your PLA is hard to remove, you probably have bed leveling issues. PLA should remove easily after cooling from reasonable print-time bed temperatures of 40-60°C to room temperature as long as it has not been extruded against the bed with excessive force (from being too close and having nowhere else to go).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2020-06-29T03:09:03.453" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13978" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13972" CreationDate="2020-06-29T05:16:39.103" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A hole designed for a screw/bolt to slide freely through is called a clearance hole. A hole that is designed to be tapped could be called a pilot hole.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastActivityDate="2020-06-29T05:16:39.103" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13979" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-06-29T05:20:39.587" Score="0" ViewCount="1254" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been testing my brain for the last few weeks trying to solve this problem:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Td2AO.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Td2AO.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Under extrusion&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;Some info:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Printers: Sidewinder X1 | Prusa MK3S&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Extruder: Stock(Titan clone with volcano clone hotend) | Stock&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Nozzle: 0.4 mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Filaments: eSun PLA+ | 3DFillies PLA+&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Slicer: Cura 4.6&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Firmware:Marlin 2.0.5.3 (Manual Mesh Bed Leveling,S Curve&#xA;Acceleration,Linear Advance,Junction Deviation)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Firmware Settings:&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;Recv: echo: M92 X80.12 Y80.12 Z399.78 E425.50&#xA;Recv: echo:; Maximum feedrates (units/s):&#xA;Recv: echo:  M203 X500.00 Y500.00 Z12.00 E120.00&#xA;Recv: echo:; Maximum Acceleration (units/s2):&#xA;Recv: echo:  M201 X1000.00 Y1000.00 Z500.00 E10000.00&#xA;Recv: echo:; Acceleration (units/s2): P&amp;lt;print_accel&amp;gt; R&amp;lt;retract_accel&amp;gt; T&amp;lt;travel_accel&amp;gt;&#xA;Recv: echo:  M204 P500.00 R500.00 T500.00&#xA;Recv: echo:; Advanced: B&amp;lt;min_segment_time_us&amp;gt; S&amp;lt;min_feedrate&amp;gt; T&amp;lt;min_travel_feedrate&amp;gt; J&amp;lt;junc_dev&amp;gt;&#xA;Recv: echo:  M205 B20000.00 S0.00 T0.00 J0.06&#xA;Recv: echo:; Home offset:&#xA;Recv: echo:  M206 X0.00 Y0.00 Z0.00&#xA;Recv: echo:; PID settings:&#xA;Recv: echo:  M301 P14.11 I1.16 D42.77&#xA;Recv: echo:  M304 P244.21 I45.87 D325.08&#xA;Recv: echo:; Linear Advance:&#xA;Recv: echo:  M900 K0.15&#xA;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Printed from USB Stick.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;E-Steps calibrated&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Flow calibrated&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bed warped(low in the center) but with manual mesh bed leveling calibrated until my BLTouch arrives.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At first I assumed it was related to linear advance, however, decreasing it did help it reintroduced bulging corners. Then I noticed the geared extruder clicking(only sounded like vibrations caused by fast print speeds) during the Linear Advance retractions/deretractions. I then tried significantly lowering the max extruder feedrate/acceleration/jerk (jerk wasn't actually listed in the &lt;code&gt;M503&lt;/code&gt; but I still tried sending the G-code to change it) in firmware, which did stop the clicking (skipped steps?) but not the under extrusion. Also im curious what the &amp;quot;Jerk Contol&amp;quot; settings in Cura actually do since I'm using junction deviation and if I should be using the lower values(0.02-0.1) that junction deviation calls for over the higher(5-30) ones that classic jerk does.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Things I have tried:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Filament path clear&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Filament idler tension increased/decreased&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Temp: 180-205 °C&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Speed: 45 mm/s(25 mm/s Outer Walls)-125mm/s(75mm/s Outer Walls)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Flow: Increasing slightly helped but lost dimensional accuracy which I need a high as I can get&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Retraction:0.05 mm-1.5 mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Retraction Speed: 20 mm/s-80 mm/s&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Combing, Wiping and Coasting: on/off&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Changing filament colour&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Changing filament brand&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cold pulls&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lowering Linear Advance(helped but reintroduced bulging corners)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Junction Deviation: 0.02 - 0.08&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Seam: Expose seam(seemed to have the largest effect overall (but only&#xA;on the calibration cubes,the reciever seen above also has the expose&#xA;seem option enabled see:https://imgur.com/gallery/dRjptkp)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Using PrusaSlicer(Couldnt establish any worthwile comparisons as&#xA;something unrelated was causing major issues and my MK3 is currently out of order,&#xA;see:https://imgur.com/gallery/WxJs2Qk)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Im fairly certain it is a Cura specific setting causing this and not any physical failure,however I have tried so many troubleshooting solutions with little to no progress so at this time I am welcoming any suggestions(even if already listed above).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cura settings with more examples:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KIShE.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KIShE.jpg&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My apologies if this seems like a raw data dump, I have mental troubles with explaining things.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21735" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-06-29T14:06:43.213" LastActivityDate="2020-06-29T14:06:43.213" Title="Under extrusion caused by sharp turns(?)" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|artillery-sidewinder-x1|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13981" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13982" CreationDate="2020-06-29T20:33:34.190" Score="4" ViewCount="1003" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know of a (manufacturer independent) software that supports different types of SLA printers?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since there are many different SLA type printers around, I was wondering if there are any unified or open source methods for slicing in case the manufacturer drops support for the printer software (or my OS upgrades on me overnight and breaks compatability).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14562" LastActivityDate="2020-06-29T20:33:34.190" Title="Do SLA printers have open source slicers available to use?" Tags="|slicing|sla|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13982" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13981" CreationDate="2020-06-29T20:33:34.190" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;From what I have researched, each brand of printer has their own method of slicing objects for their printer to parse. For example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://docs.google.com/document/d/17nKJrZDkb8WA0aMEBN1xEAxEslRPMuqWTw_dSSEVjws/edit&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Peopoly Uses a profile for Cura&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.chitubox.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Creality, Elegoo and Phrozen use CHITUBOX&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.anycubic.com/blogs/videos/photon-workshop&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Anycubic uses their Photon Workshop&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There doesn't appear to be any golden ticket type of method (like G-Code) for slicing and providing instructions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14562" LastActivityDate="2020-06-29T20:33:34.190" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13987" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13975" CreationDate="2020-06-30T13:04:04.763" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You did exactly the right thing:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;look,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;see,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;think,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;evaluate and adapt&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;test&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Back to 1. or continue to 7.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Solution found and applied!&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Congrats!&#xA;Johan&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ps: I use the tape in paper, used to mask before paint jobs, I was not that keen as you! It always comes off, and I restart every time with a clean glass, no hairspray, glue or others. They cost nothing, and if you are handy, you can use 100mm wide stripes. (or just the amount needed for your part.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21747" LastActivityDate="2020-06-30T13:04:04.763" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13988" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13991" CreationDate="2020-06-30T17:18:47.347" Score="4" ViewCount="2878" Body="&lt;p&gt;Why is cupping bad? (I don't mean hollow parts)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Example:&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lets say that I want to print a simple cup without a handle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are two obvious orientations:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In one orientation it won't require any support, which I quite like, but it will then form a 'cup' which my 3D program tells me is bad.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In the opposite orientation it needs to be filled with support, but the resin can freely run out.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't want to add a drainage hole to my cup for obvious reasons :) Also, I am using a formlabs form 3, if it makes a difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A cup:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pBWra.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pBWra.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21748" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2020-08-15T20:34:06.023" LastActivityDate="2021-02-09T15:30:16.143" Title="Why is cupping bad in SLA prints?" Tags="|sla|resin|print-orientation|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13989" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-06-30T21:45:26.280" Score="0" ViewCount="771" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I'm using TH3D firmware on my CoreXY printer and when I move it from the LCD it moves correctly, but when I try to home X or Y it goes in the wrong direction. It's set to home to min in firmware. When I set the endstop logic so its always triggered, it homes in the right direction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are my motion settings:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#define MKS_PRINTER&#xA;&#xA;// Build Area Size Settings&#xA;#define MKS_X_SIZE 300&#xA;#define MKS_Y_SIZE 300&#xA;#define MKS_Z_SIZE 300&#xA;&#xA;// Endstop Logic Settings&#xA;#define MKS_X_ENDSTOP 0&#xA;#define MKS_Y_ENDSTOP 0&#xA;#define MKS_Z_ENDSTOP 0&#xA;&#xA;// Homing Settings&#xA;#define X_HOME_LOCATION 0&#xA;#define Y_HOME_LOCATION 0&#xA;&#xA;// Steps per MM Settings&#xA;#define MKS_X_STEPS 80&#xA;#define MKS_Y_STEPS 80&#xA;#define MKS_Z_STEPS 400&#xA;#define MKS_E0_STEPS 95&#xA;#define MKS_E1_STEPS 95&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;// Motor Direction Settings&#xA;#define MKS_X_DIRECTION 1&#xA;#define MKS_Y_DIRECTION 0&#xA;#define MKS_Z_DIRECTION 0&#xA;#define MKS_E0_DIRECTION 0&#xA;#define MKS_E1_DIRECTION 0&#xA;&#xA;// Stepper Driver Settings&#xA;#define MKS_X_DRIVER A4988&#xA;#define MKS_Y_DRIVER A4988&#xA;#define MKS_Z_DRIVER A4988&#xA;#define MKS_E0_DRIVER A4988&#xA;#define MKS_E1_DRIVER A4988&#xA;&lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;```&lt;/span&gt;&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19404" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-06-30T22:27:11.527" LastActivityDate="2020-06-30T22:27:11.527" Title="CoreXY printer homes in the wrong direction, but moves correctly when moved manually" Tags="|homing|corexy|th3d|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13991" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13988" CreationDate="2020-07-01T09:18:08.177" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The printer prints, then moves up, then down again. The print surface stays inside the resin vat at all times. As a result, we have this experiment:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xOGuJ.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xOGuJ.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &amp;quot;bottle&amp;quot; is resting in a vat of liquid. As we raise it more and more, it does not drain until the lower lid is free of the liquid surface or some point of the shell delaminates. The release of the resin can happen in a rather violent way - which in turn could deform the print in the making. Delamination rips through the part till air can enter the enclosed space, destroying the print in the process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even if printing the mouth against the plate you'll have cupping if you have a solid plate to print against. This can be mitigated with a little angle but trap liquid in the print at the end or including a couple of small gaps close to the surface to allow air to get into the print - yet unless the resin can flow out at the bottom some will be trapped in any case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To prevent cupping, I would turn the cup to print sideways, that way resin and air can be exchanged.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2021-02-09T15:30:16.143" LastActivityDate="2021-02-09T15:30:16.143" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13992" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-07-01T17:55:55.550" Score="3" ViewCount="2124" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently bought some SUNLU PLA black filament and was attempting a small print with it and it started to come out in strings and lumps and was incredibly inconsistent. Before this I'd been using some Eryone PLA and those prints were superb, been printing back to back successfully but after using the SUNLU all of my prints since have been having layer separation issues. I've cleaned the extruder, taken off the fan and cleared out the hotend of some wisps of filament, then flushed it through with some more reliable filament which looked better and replaced my magnetic bed sticker with a new one as the adhesion on the initial layer was poor even though the bed looked level. Once I replaced the sticker, the adhesion on the first layer is excellent. I thought I'd fixed the problems so tried an XYZ cube and still getting serious layering issues and the infill is thin.  Any ideas what else I could do to fix this problem? I've put slicer settings below:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hot end temp: 210 °C&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bed temp: 60 °C&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fan speed: 100 %&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Print speed: 50 mm/s&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No custom modifications to the standard Cura profile for the Ender 3.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My filament diameter setting in Cura is 1.75 mm and so is my filament.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ja49h.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ja49h.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;xyz cube&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/so9S3.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/so9S3.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;inside xyz cube&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20814" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-09-21T11:07:52.833" LastActivityDate="2020-09-21T11:07:52.833" Title="Delamination issue Ender 3 Pro PLA" Tags="|infill|layer-height|delamination|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13993" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13995" CreationDate="2020-07-01T17:59:40.483" Score="5" ViewCount="6431" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm using FreeCAD, and I would like to duplicate a 2D sketch on another plane, but I can't seem to find an obvious way to do this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="112" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-07-01T21:55:39.973" LastActivityDate="2021-12-31T15:39:29.147" Title="In FreeCAD, how do you copy a sketch from one plane to another?" Tags="|cad|freecad|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13995" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13993" CreationDate="2020-07-01T19:50:28.963" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;I’m assuming you are working in the Part Design workbench. Select the sketch and click &lt;strong&gt;Edit&lt;/strong&gt; &amp;gt; &lt;strong&gt;Duplicate selected object&lt;/strong&gt;. Make sure that only the sketch is copied (depending on the version, either deselect the plane or click don’t include dependent objects). This will produce a duplicate sketch in the active body (if you want the duplicate in a different body, make sure it’s active first by double-clicking it if necessary). You can then click &lt;strong&gt;Sketch&lt;/strong&gt; &amp;gt; &lt;strong&gt;Reorient Sketch&lt;/strong&gt; to move it to a different plane.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By the way, FreeCAD has a very active and helpful forum at &lt;a href=&quot;https://freecadweb.org&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://freecadweb.org&lt;/a&gt;. I highly recommend asking FreeCAD questions there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20164" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-12-30T20:41:10.303" LastActivityDate="2021-12-30T20:41:10.303" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13996" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13992" CreationDate="2020-07-01T22:09:03.497" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is under extrusion, not delamination. Delamination is the result of the under extrusion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It typically happens when the wrong filament diameter has been set in the slicer (a larger diameter than used, e.g 2.85 mm instead of 1.75 mm). Another option is that you accidentally put the printer in volumetric printing mode which is accessible through the display of the printer:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;code&gt;Control -&amp;gt; Filament -&amp;gt; E in mm³ -&amp;gt; Disable&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other solutions may be found in the extrusion process, e.g. the extruder may be skipping.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2020-07-01T22:09:03.497" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13997" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-07-01T22:47:53.903" Score="1" ViewCount="408" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got this second hand printer today, but, when I want to start printing, the temperature sets to cooling mode and the print never starts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hb3jH.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hb3jH.png&quot; alt=&quot;CR 10 S Pro display says: Cool...&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is what I've done so far...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Upgraded firmware for the board and screen to Tiny Machines latest version.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check temperature manual for bed and nozzle and works fine&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Level the bed&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I used Cura with several profiles, even with an Ender 3 profile from my other machine to see if the slicer is the one giving issues&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On other G-codes that i tried, the message changes to in the pause and completing percentage is set to 218 %...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21757" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-07-02T07:00:08.487" LastActivityDate="2021-01-12T19:53:39.450" Title="Temperature sets to cooling when print starts CR10s Pro v1" Tags="|creality-cr-10|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13998" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11684" CreationDate="2020-07-01T23:48:38.400" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I dont know if you managed to solve this but if not I was facing the same issue and managed to do it just by searching all sketches for those parameters in Arduino IDE. They are not all in configuration.h like shown in the Teaching Tech video. Most of them are in configuration_backend.h and some in conditionals_LCD.h I used the values suggested in TT's video and it has speeded up levelling vastly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;p.s. I am using the most recent version of the TH3D unified firmware on a Creality CR-10 mini&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21759" LastActivityDate="2020-07-01T23:48:38.400" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13999" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11684" CreationDate="2020-07-02T06:40:37.063" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are multiple ways to achieve this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;In G-code&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You don't necessarily need to do that in firmware, TH3D is based on Marlin firmware and is just a monolithic implementation for most popular printers and boards that helps novice users to easily configure their printer, but in the meantime it hides other options from plain sight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Being a derivative fro Marlin firmware, the bed leveling speed in between probes can also be easily set in G-code. G-code &lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#G29:_Detailed_Z-Probe&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;code&gt;G29&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/a&gt; has a speed parameter:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;code&gt;S&lt;/code&gt; : &lt;em&gt;Set the XY travel speed between probe points (in units/min)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From below (TH3D firmware) can be seen that a value of 12000 mm/min will speed up and is generally safe to use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;In Marlin firmware&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In Marlin firmware, the speed setting in between probes is found in &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/blob/2.0.x/Marlin/Configuration.h&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Configuration.h&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;// X and Y axis travel speed (mm/min) between probes&#xA;#define XY_PROBE_SPEED 8000&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;In TH3D firmware&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In TH3D firmware this speed is buried in the &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/houseofbugs/TH3D-Unified-U1.R2/blob/master/TH3DUF_R2/Configuration_backend.h&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Configuration_backend.h&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;  #if ENABLED(PROBING_MOTORS_OFF)&#xA;    #define XY_PROBE_SPEED 8000&#xA;  #else&#xA;    #if ENABLED(SLOWER_PROBE_MOVES) || ENABLED(TH3D_EZ300) || ENABLED(TIM_AM8)&#xA;      #define XY_PROBE_SPEED 8000&#xA;    #else&#xA;      #if ENABLED(EZABL_SUPERFASTPROBE)&#xA;        #define XY_PROBE_SPEED 16000&#xA;      #else&#xA;        #define XY_PROBE_SPEED 12000&#xA;      #endif&#xA;    #endif&#xA;  #endif&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The speed is depending on setting of the &lt;code&gt;PROBING_MOTORS_OFF&lt;/code&gt; in &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/houseofbugs/TH3D-Unified-U1.R2/blob/master/TH3DUF_R2/Configuration.h&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Configuration.h&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;// This will disable the XYE motors during probing. Can be useful if you have stepper motors causing interference issues with the EZABL sensor.&#xA;#define PROBING_MOTORS_OFF&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;or depending on the speed settings for specific setting/sensors &lt;code&gt;(ENABLED(SLOWER_PROBE_MOVES) || ENABLED(TH3D_EZ300) || ENABLED(TIM_AM8)&lt;/code&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;// If you have issues with your machine running the faster probe setting disable the #define EZABL_FASTPROBE below.&#xA;// DO NOTE: Most machines will work with the fast probe enabled. Use M48 to verify accuracy.&#xA;#define EZABL_FASTPROBE&#xA;&#xA;// Superfast probing - Only works with the EZABL Pro Sensors&#xA;// DO NOTE: Not all machines will work with the fast probe enabled. Use M48 to verify accuracy and make sure the Z isn't binding with the high speeds.&#xA;//#define EZABL_SUPERFASTPROBE&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically, if you have not defined one of the following: &lt;code&gt;PROBING_MOTORS_OFF&lt;/code&gt;, &lt;code&gt;SLOWER_PROBE_MOVES&lt;/code&gt;, &lt;code&gt;TH3D_EZ300&lt;/code&gt; or &lt;code&gt;TIM_AM8&lt;/code&gt;, the &lt;code&gt;XY_PROBE_SPEED &lt;/code&gt; will default to a value of 4000 (depending of the definition of &lt;code&gt;HOMING_FEEDRATE_XY&lt;/code&gt;) since the constant is not defined, see &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/houseofbugs/TH3D-Unified-U1.R2/blob/master/TH3DUF_R2/Conditionals_post.h&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Conditionals_post.h)&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;  #ifndef XY_PROBE_SPEED&#xA;    #ifdef HOMING_FEEDRATE_XY&#xA;      #define XY_PROBE_SPEED HOMING_FEEDRATE_XY&#xA;    #else&#xA;      #define XY_PROBE_SPEED 4000&#xA;    #endif&#xA;  #endif&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In Marlin you would simply change the value of the travel between probing speed whilst in TH3D you need to sort out if one of all those conditions are met. For advanced users with a slightly different printer setup, the TH3D software might be less optimal. Do note that forks of the Marlin firmware that are heavily modified always (like TH3D) lack behind the original sources; you are dependent on the implementation schedule of the fork maintainer. But, for people that have not modified their printer, have a limited knowledge of software (C/C++ development) and firmware flashing, or their modification falls in the supported options of TH3D, the monolithic TH3D might be very helpful!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most probably, your setting is overruled later.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-07-02T09:58:58.837" LastActivityDate="2020-07-02T09:58:58.837" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14000" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14001" CreationDate="2020-07-02T10:59:45.537" Score="3" ViewCount="10346" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am completely new to 3D Printing. I got my first printer, a Creality Ender 5 Pro, yesterday.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;My problem&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I shutdown the printer without the axis being in home position (&lt;strong&gt;X: 0, Y: 0, Z: 320&lt;/strong&gt; instead of &lt;strong&gt;X: 0, Y: 0, Z: 0&lt;/strong&gt;). I thought this should be no problem but after turning the printer on again the info screen showed the axis position as 0, 0, 0 again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, I can't move the Z axis up now because the printer thinks it's already at 0.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;NOTE: On the Ender 5 the bed lowers for increasing values of the Z. So 320 is the lowest and 0 the highest. I know that the motor works because it tries to go down further if I increase the Z position, but I am scared of damaging the motor because it can't move further but it tries to (judging by that weird sound).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;My question&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this a normal behavior that the printer axis cant remember its position? Because I think when I built the printer the axes were also not at the 0, 0, 0 position and on the first start they moved back without any problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone have any ideas on how to solve this? Or is this a broken printer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PS: I could replicate this behavior on X and Y as well (moving them with prepare-&amp;gt;move axis and then shutting down the printer). But in this case, I can easily disable the motors and move them manually back to 0, 0. This isn't the case for the Z Axis.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope I explained that understandably.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21764" LastEditorUserId="34923" LastEditDate="2023-07-10T19:03:39.680" LastActivityDate="2023-07-10T19:03:39.680" Title="Why can't my Ender 5 Pro remember its axis position or move back to home anymore?" Tags="|creality-ender-5|homing|axis|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14001" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14000" CreationDate="2020-07-02T11:55:21.700" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Once you pull the plug or disable power to the stepper motors, the printer forgets its location. That is perfectly normal and exactly how it is supposed to work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The printer knows where the printer volume is once you have &amp;quot;homed&amp;quot; the printer. Homing is done prior to printing with G-code &lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#G28:_Move_to_Origin_.28Home.29&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;code&gt;G28&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/a&gt; which should be present in your start G-code script of your slicer. Once homed, the offsets from the endstops determine where the origin of the printer is and the maximum dimensions determine the build volume.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After you switched on the printer, the printer doesn't know where the origin is and movement is limited. E.g. when the following constant is defined: &lt;code&gt;#define NO_MOTION_BEFORE_HOMING&lt;/code&gt; no movement at all is possible before the printer is homed, this can help prevent destroying the printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-07-03T07:26:02.230" LastActivityDate="2020-07-03T07:26:02.230" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14002" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14037" CreationDate="2020-07-02T19:28:53.050" Score="2" ViewCount="2137" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm going to use &lt;a href=&quot;https://learn.watterott.com/silentstepstick/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;TMC2208 stepstick&lt;/a&gt; in a printer and the firmware can control via UART the current during printing and during holding (static, no movement): the firmware has an explicit setting for running current and for holding current.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this case, should I care about the physical trimmer which controls the Vref?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried to understand the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.trinamic.com/fileadmin/assets/Products/ICs_Documents/TMC220x_TMC2224_datasheet_Rev1.09.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;TMC2208 datasheet&lt;/a&gt; (page 50) when it's talking about current control but I don't understand whether the Vref becomes superfluous or it still acts as a maximum value which the UART must obey.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2338" LastEditorUserId="2338" LastEditDate="2020-07-03T14:07:44.077" LastActivityDate="2021-06-08T09:31:38.490" Title="Is the Vref trimmer relevant on TMC2208 in UART mode?" Tags="|stepper-driver|tmc2208|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14003" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-07-02T22:20:06.913" Score="1" ViewCount="711" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am new to 3D printing and am trying to get started with a FlashForge Finder. Unfortunately, the printer keeps shutting off mid print, and I am unable to find a cause. Here's what I have tried thus far: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;System Settings&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Factory Reset&lt;/strong&gt; - When I attempt a factory reset, nothing happens (the menu closes, but usage stats &amp;amp; wifi do not get reset) &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Firmware Update&lt;/strong&gt; - Updating the firmware from the touchscreen immediately fails every time&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Printing&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I can start a new print, but the machine turns off after about ~10-15 minutes at temperature&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The transformer on the power cable remains lit green even after the machine fails and turns off&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I have tried printing multiple files from Thingiverse with no edits (an elephant and an owl)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Temperature is set to 220 °C&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Observations&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;One of the times that the print failed, I noticed that the temperature had dropped to ~204 °C prior to failing. I don't know if that's normal behavior or not&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21766" LastEditorUserId="14562" LastEditDate="2020-07-04T14:22:08.377" LastActivityDate="2021-07-09T09:07:20.697" Title="FlashForge Finder turns off mid print and is unable to reset or update firmware" Tags="|print-failure|flashforge-finder|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14004" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16178" CreationDate="2020-07-03T10:06:06.487" Score="3" ViewCount="6014" Body="&lt;p&gt;All my prints come out about 1 mm too short in the Z dimension. So for example a 20 mm cube comes out 19 mm high. A 10 mm cube comes out 9 mm high. The X and Y dimensions are fine. There's a little bit of visible elephant's foot at the bottom, so I assume whatever is happening is in the first couple of layers. The problem is fairly consistently around 1 mm even for larger prints.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Pjuev.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Pjuev.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;10 mm test cube&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RSPfi.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RSPfi.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;20 mm test cube&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The printer is an Ender 3 Pro with a glass bed and BLTouch for automatic leveling, but otherwise stock.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had a &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/13940/expansion-in-bottom-skin-after-first-layer&quot;&gt;similar issue with another Ender 3 Pro&lt;/a&gt; that was resolved thanks to a link to &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/8022/first-3-mm-prints-poorly-then-fine-after-that&quot;&gt;this question about problems in the first 3 mm&lt;/a&gt;. The solution was turning the eccentric nuts on the left and right to loosen the rollers that connect the X-axis gantry to the vertical posts. There the Z issue was not as pronounced, and I was getting really messy prints in the first few Z layers. Here that is not an issue; the first few layers look fine while they're printing. Loosening the rollers did not resolve it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Things I've tried:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tightening and loosening the gantry rollers using the eccentric nuts. They're currently just tight enough that turning them moves the gantry, but loose enough that I can turn them without moving the gantry if I hold it still.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tightening and loosening the two little screws that attach the extruder mount to the Z-axis lead screw. Currently I made them just tight, then backed off 1/4 turn.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Adding a shim between the vertical post and the Z-axis lead screw. The lead screw is now pretty much parallel to the post.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Slowly turning the lead screw by hand to raise and lower the gantry. There's no noticeable catching or increased resistance anywhere.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Varying the brand and type of PLA filament.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Varying the temperature from 190 °C to 210 °C.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Obsessively leveling and re-leveling the bed. Manually leveling, auto leveling with the BLTouch, and adjusting the z-offset.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm using the stock Ender 3 Pro profile in Cura, and printing at 0.2 mm layer height. I've kind of run out of things to check. What else can cause Z height loss in the first few layers like this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16902" LastEditorUserId="16902" LastEditDate="2021-08-10T03:19:43.430" LastActivityDate="2022-01-20T17:04:35.367" Title="What can cause Z height loss in the first few layers?" Tags="|creality-ender-3|pla|calibration|z-axis|glass-bed|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="14" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14007" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14013" CreationDate="2020-07-03T19:43:47.467" Score="1" ViewCount="878" Body="&lt;p&gt;I’m thinking of building a diy H-bot printer but I have some questions...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;How can I tell the firmware that the printer is an H-bot one? I just need to uncomment the CoreXY option? Is it the same?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Does the print bed need to be square (for example 300x300) or it can be also a rectangle?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Are the steps/mm the same of the ones on a Cartesian 3D printer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;How can I recognize which motor goes on which connector on the motherboard? (The X and Y connectors I mean).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20955" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-07-04T23:15:12.980" LastActivityDate="2020-07-05T04:58:58.030" Title="How does an H-bot printer work?" Tags="|diy-3d-printer|corexy|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14008" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-07-03T22:52:46.573" Score="1" ViewCount="153" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a few 3D printers and now want to start building a custom 3D printer.&#xA;I want to build a 3D printer with multiple nozzles, and I want to make the hotend thin so the nozzles can be closer together.&#xA;What is the thinnest nozzle avalible to buy?&#xA;Are there any guides or details on how I could make a custom nozzle or modify a nozzle if I can't buy a thin nozzle?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1476" LastActivityDate="2020-07-07T19:23:42.037" Title="What is the thinnest hotend?" Tags="|hotend|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14010" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14011" CreationDate="2020-07-04T11:50:06.563" Score="1" ViewCount="903" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just printed my first cube from my newly arrived Artillery Sidewinder X1. I am totally new to 3D printing but I managed to correctly unbox, assemble and prepare it for printing.&#xA;I used PLA filament and the cube ended up great. I removed it using a cutter gently pulling it up from the first layer and it popped right off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A little layer of material was still stuck on the bed and, I don't know why, my dumb brain decided to use ethyl alchool 90 % to scrub it off on that little surface. I immediately used some water to wipe the alchool off but it was too late.&#xA;Now on that portion of the bad all I see is a matte area that I can't fix.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Did I irremediably ruin my bed? I am so bummed I can't even describe it. All went great but I decided to do this on my own and I failed. I do know that the bed is replaceable but I just hope is not very expensive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a couple of pictures to give you a look of the damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8YAaQ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8YAaQ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bHCVE.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bHCVE.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21784" LastEditorUserId="14562" LastEditDate="2020-07-19T13:00:57.947" LastActivityDate="2020-07-19T13:00:57.947" Title="I mistakenly used 90% ethyl alchool to scrape some PLA off my bed; did I ruin it?" Tags="|adhesion|glass-bed|artillery-sidewinder-x1|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14011" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14010" CreationDate="2020-07-04T12:21:05.940" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;First of all, let's look at what kind of bed you have. According to &lt;a href=&quot;https://all3dp.com/1/artillery-sidewinder-x1-review-3d-printer-specs/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;a review&lt;/a&gt;, it is a &amp;quot;porous ceramic coated glass surface.&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Your bed is fine...&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Glass and almost all ceramics are virtually impervious to most liquids, be them alcohol or even most acids unless that acid is hydrofluoric acid. So on a chemical standpoint, your bed is most likely ok, just the alcohol managed to leech some of the coloration or deposit dust in the surface - which is no problem usually. The matte might even just be PLA stuck in the surface, so if this happens if you print in a different area, you know that is not &lt;em&gt;damage&lt;/em&gt; per see it's a normal sign of &lt;em&gt;use&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So from that standpoint, I see no problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;...but there are safety issues with the bed design&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Where I see a problem though is the construction of the bed itself: it runs on mains voltage and is heated directly, which can cause all kind of problems, especially breaking off the cable as there is no proper strain relief on the cable! Atop that, the review points out that the bed heats uneven, which can very quickly lead to stress and breaking of the bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because of this construction, &lt;strong&gt;I strongly advise to refit a strain relief and use utmost care no to touch the bed during operation&lt;/strong&gt;. Make sure not to hammer onto it and don't overheat it to prevent thermal cracking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2020-07-04T12:27:35.337" LastActivityDate="2020-07-04T12:27:35.337" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14013" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14007" CreationDate="2020-07-04T23:14:01.800" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The CoreXY kinematics can be seen as an evolution of the H-bot kinematics. In Marlin, you both need to configure the printer as a CoreXY machine. Note that your steps are determined by the pulleys in the steppers and need to be the same for the steppers. With testing you will find out if you have the correct value.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are many popular designs out there; e.g. the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/search?q=Hypercube&amp;amp;type=things&amp;amp;sort=relevant&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Hypercube&lt;/a&gt; and the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2254103&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Hypercube Evolution&lt;/a&gt; (I have built the latter myself).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would not recommend building an H-bot, these have an inherent design flaw in that the load is asymmetrical causing the carriage to be stressed by a torque causing racking. To minimize this racking, you would require more expensive tight tolerance hardware like proper linear rails (usually not the kind that you find on typical auction or Asian vending sites, but actual pricy Japanese or German hardware). The CoreXY kinematics stress the carriage symmetrically. Note that the difference between an H-bot and a CoreXY printer is only the length of the belts, nowadays good quality belts can be bought for any length you need.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that a square or rectangular bed is a non-issue, just specify the dimensions in the configuration. The only thing you need to find out is how to wire the steppers. I connect one stepper to one driver and the other stepper to the other driver. I then did some tests and found out I had to flip one stepper motors connector to get the correct movement. I could have reversed this in firmware as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-07-05T04:58:58.030" LastActivityDate="2020-07-05T04:58:58.030" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14014" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14016" CreationDate="2020-07-05T05:46:46.427" Score="0" ViewCount="158" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought a month ago the Artillery Genius. Everything was pretty good until today, I was printing a test cube and it stopped pulling out filament, when I looked the temperature it was -15 °C, a few seconds after the thermistor sensor broke and got stuck on the extruder creating a little bit of smoke. I had bought a thermistor sensor and a heater cartridge original replacement. I changed both and turn the printer back on. As soon I turn it on the extruder start to increase the temperature, almost 300 °C and then change to -15 °C. I checked the connections multiple times, I even change the sensor with another one, but nothing works. I checked the boards, cables but everything looks great. Don't know what else can be. I already contacted customer support but just want to look for another opinion while waiting for there answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21789" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2020-07-05T10:13:03.347" LastActivityDate="2020-07-05T10:13:03.347" Title="Extruder increase temperature" Tags="|safety|thermistor|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14016" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14014" CreationDate="2020-07-05T10:12:53.667" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your printer does seem to have a firmware problem and lack important safety features - it should have stopped the moment it went 300°C measurement, beeped like hell, and shut down with an error message about Thermal Runaway Protection. &lt;strong&gt;Immediately stop using the printer!&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Before you try to print again, you need to make a proper firmware for your printer, one that has both &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/8466/what-is-thermal-runaway-protection?r=SearchResults&amp;amp;s=1%7C21.9164&quot;&gt;Mintemp, Maxtemp as well as Thermal Runaway Protection actiive&lt;/a&gt; and flash that. While setting up your firmware, make sure you use the right temperature table for your thermosensor. How to do that is detailed &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/12153/updating-marlin-firmware-step-by-step-guide9&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastActivityDate="2020-07-05T10:12:53.667" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14018" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-07-05T23:36:02.903" Score="1" ViewCount="1782" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am building a medium-sized printer which needs to produce super-precise parts at a moderately fast print time. I frankly don't want to deal with belts or their tension issues but on the other hand, having ball screws on each axis will increase inertia...right?. I'm using Rexroth rails and will use (depending on what I decide) name brand belts or name brand ball screws.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21785" LastActivityDate="2020-09-04T17:05:30.563" Title="Should I Opt For Linear Rails With Belts OR Linear Rails With Ball Screws For A Cartesian Style Printer?" Tags="|diy-3d-printer|linear-motion|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14020" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11684" CreationDate="2020-07-06T08:40:17.470" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was successfull in getting my ender 5 pro bltouch to work faster. I still have some tweaking to do, and I'm a noob. I did the following in configuration_backend.h:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;I changed #define HOMING_FEEDRATE_Z 4 times 60 to 20 times 60:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#if ENABLED(EZABL_SUPERFASTPROBE) &amp;amp;&amp;amp; DISABLED(BLTOUCH)&#xA;  #define HOMING_FEEDRATE_Z  (15*60)&#xA;#elif ENABLED(EZABL_FASTPROBE) &amp;amp;&amp;amp; DISABLED(BLTOUCH)&#xA;  #define HOMING_FEEDRATE_Z  (8*60)&#xA;#else&#xA;  #define HOMING_FEEDRATE_Z  (20*60)&#xA;#endif&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;XY probe speed looks good, didn't have to change:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#if ENABLED(PROBING_MOTORS_OFF)&#xA;    #define XY_PROBE_SPEED 8000&#xA;  #else&#xA;    #if ENABLED(SLOWER_PROBE_MOVES) || ENABLED(TH3D_EZ300) || ENABLED(TIM_AM8)&#xA;      #define XY_PROBE_SPEED 8000&#xA;    #else&#xA;      #if ENABLED(EZABL_SUPERFASTPROBE)&#xA;        #define XY_PROBE_SPEED 16000&#xA;      #else&#xA;        #define XY_PROBE_SPEED 12000&#xA;      #endif&#xA;    #endif&#xA;  #endif&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;I commented (deactivated) this, so it probes only one time:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt; //#define MULTIPLE_PROBING 2&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;I changed the folowing from 15, 10, 10&lt;/strong&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#if ENABLED(BLTOUCH)&#xA;    #define Z_CLEARANCE_DEPLOY_PROBE   10&#xA;    #define Z_CLEARANCE_BETWEEN_PROBES 5&#xA;    #define Z_CLEARANCE_MULTI_PROBE    5&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps. Work in progress.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Andy&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21800" LastEditorUserId="21800" LastEditDate="2020-07-06T09:51:30.367" LastActivityDate="2020-07-06T09:51:30.367" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14021" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-07-06T11:48:37.067" Score="1" ViewCount="4026" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an Ender 3 and Prusa MK3S using MK8 and E3D V6 nozzles respectively.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've read some difference between these two nozzles in question &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/7844/e3d-v6-nozzle-vs-mk8-nozzle-first-layer-adhesion&quot;&gt;&amp;quot;E3D V6 nozzle vs MK8 nozzle, first layer adhesion&amp;quot;&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I use an MK8 nozzle in the v6 heater block and vice versa? I know both have same M6 thread but what tolerance do they follow?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21802" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-07-08T07:04:27.770" LastActivityDate="2020-07-08T07:04:27.770" Title="MK8 versus E3d V6 nozzle" Tags="|nozzle|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2020-07-06T19:41:55.687" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14022" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14021" CreationDate="2020-07-06T12:48:50.997" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;To be successful you would need to ensure that the geometry of the two nozzles are compatible. It is not just the external thread. It includes thread length, internal diameter of the nozzle, whether the hot-end is configured for a PTFE liner, or is an all-metal hot-end, how the back end of the nozzle couples back to the heat-break, how the internal geometry of the nozzle sits in relation to the heater block etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The original designs that spawned many of the clones were usually highly researched and sophisticated holistic balances of thermal and mechanical properties designed to prevent clogging with the widest range of filaments within the design spec of the hot end.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Randomly swapping parts could alter that balance and cause all sorts of printing problems - including leaks, burned filament within the nozzle, clogging, oozing, poor retraction control, poor thermal control etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But, if the geometries of the two nozzles are close enough, you might be ok...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21453" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-07-06T14:26:27.960" LastActivityDate="2020-07-06T14:26:27.960" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14023" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14018" CreationDate="2020-07-06T13:11:05.247" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In many years of building printers I only used ball screws for the Z-axis, and even then only for larger Makerbot and Ultimaker style designs that had a heavy platform.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even for the Z-axis, a good thick trapezoid screw with the right anti-backlash configuration is often enough because most printers are light and most slicers only print upwards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Modern belts are also very accurate, and if they are not load-bearing, and you stick to good closed-loop ones, they can be incredibly stable over time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tended to base my X-Y configuration around the available sizes of good quality closed-loop belts, and sized everything else to be compatible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21453" LastActivityDate="2020-07-06T13:11:05.247" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14024" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-07-06T16:25:13.690" Score="3" ViewCount="2279" Body="&lt;p&gt;e3d uses this scheme to mark the size of their nozzle:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/H6x4U.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/H6x4U.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do I read this scheme? Do we read the second row of dots after completing the first row of dots or we read 1 dot from row 1 and second dot from row 2 the again 3rd dot from row 1 and 4th dot from row 2?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It can be seen here in the nozzle:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0BPGr.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0BPGr.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other nozzles usually have size engraved on the hex flat face:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ISNtZ.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ISNtZ.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which one of these is a better scheme to designate a nozzle? is one cheaper to machine than other?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21802" LastActivityDate="2020-07-06T17:40:36.633" Title="What are the pros and cons of writing nozzle size vs using e3d style dots on nozzle?" Tags="|nozzle|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14025" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14024" CreationDate="2020-07-06T17:40:36.633" Score="2" Body="&lt;h2&gt;dots&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First of all, reading the dot pattern: for all but the 0.15, the &lt;em&gt;total&lt;/em&gt; number of dots is read, and there is only 1 dot per side. So a .5 nozzle has dimples on &lt;em&gt;all&lt;/em&gt; sides. The only outlier where the dots are not all one next to another is 0.15, which has 2 dots but they are interspaced by one blank side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol start=&quot;0&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;0.25&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;0.3&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;0.35&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;0.4&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;0.6&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;0.8&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;0.5 (which was added after the .6 and .8 had already been established)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2 interspaced ones - 0.15, also added after the 0 to 5-dot group had been established.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;dots vs. inscription&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The inscription is, compared to the dot pattern, much more shallow and can vanish under scratches. Also, the dots are easier to recover from being caked in plastic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the flipside, the dot pattern isn't easy to read intuitively, it doesn't follow an easy pattern (the 6 and 2-interspaced-dots are later additions into the setup).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastActivityDate="2020-07-06T17:40:36.633" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14026" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14008" CreationDate="2020-07-06T19:10:21.857" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The size of the nozzle usually isn't the main factor for how close you can put nozzles together.  To keep the filament drive gear system from being the limiting factor, you would need Bowden extruders. &amp;quot;Then, the heat sinks and fans would be your limiting factor.  Have you considered a single nozzle with three extruders?  Otherwise, you need custom angled heat sinks similar to the three heat sinks on a single nozzle, and still a way to orient the nozzles at the same Z-height.  That would be difficult if all the nozzles are on the same heater block.  It still seems that nozzle size is the least of the issues of putting nozzles close together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you search for smaller nozzle sizes, you will get nozzles with smaller openings, not smaller overall size.  The threads on the nozzles are a standard size.  Thus, the smaller opening size can't be put closer together than the larger opening size.  Otherwise, you have only small variations between different types of nozzles and need room to screw them in to the heater block if you put all of them into one block.  You can get a nozzle using a 6 mm hex wrench that is smaller than one using a 7 mm hex (E3D).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15075" LastEditorUserId="15075" LastEditDate="2020-07-07T19:23:42.037" LastActivityDate="2020-07-07T19:23:42.037" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14027" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14008" CreationDate="2020-07-06T19:50:00.283" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;One of the thinnest hotends I've seen are those from a Chinese factory Mellow Store, the heatsink is smaller than the top flange to mount the hotend. I don't know the quality of these hotends, the image below shows the basic layouts of available options:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MsvUL.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MsvUL.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Mellow Store custom hotend&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ultimaker uses high quality hotends which are pretty small 2.85  mm hotends they call &amp;quot;cores&amp;quot;, they house 2 next to each other and use a lifting mechanism:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pl0mt.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pl0mt.png&quot; alt=&quot;Ultimaker 0.8 mm core&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-07-07T07:20:35.680" LastActivityDate="2020-07-07T07:20:35.680" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14028" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-07-07T02:53:56.223" Score="1" ViewCount="1084" Body="&lt;p&gt;Both nozzles use M6 threads, which ISO thread specification do these nozzles use?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And what should be the tolerance and surface finish (internal/external) of the nozzle bore?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found the drawings but nothing about the tolerances.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've found the V6 nozzle drawing &lt;a href=&quot;https://files.e3d-online.com/v6/Drawings/V6-NOZZLE-175.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; and the Mk8 nozzle dimensions as depicted below:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/makNc.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/makNc.png&quot; alt=&quot;Mk8 nozzle dimensions&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21802" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-07-08T07:01:16.907" LastActivityDate="2020-07-08T07:01:16.907" Title="For making V6 or Mk8 nozzle what tolerance specification we've to follow?" Tags="|nozzle|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14029" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14028" CreationDate="2020-07-07T03:45:26.957" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The short answer is it really doesn't matter. None of these surfaces are interfacing with other rigid parts. They're conducting filament that's being melted. The specifications are likely optimized for favorable flow properties, and following them as closely as your tooling allows is probably a good idea, but there's no hard tolerance cutoff.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;CNC Kitchen has a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zi5gA_tDE4Y&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;video producing a working nozzle with a mini lathe&lt;/a&gt; and had good luck without any rigorous process for tolerances.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It should be noted that the exactness of the nozzle orifice size and other dimensions are for the most part &lt;em&gt;not relevant&lt;/em&gt; to the accuracy of extrusion; that's pretty much all on the filament diameter and extruder motor motion, which determine the volume of material extruded. In practice you can produce 0.4 mm extrusions pretty much equally well with an 0.3 mm orifice or an 0.5 mm orifice; at most you'll have some minor differences in behavior on overhangs. And presumably your error is not going to be anywhere near 25%.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As Trish noted, the threads do have to interface with another rigid part. However they're governed by ISO standards for metric threads not this particular design. I use this tolerance calculator site: &lt;a href=&quot;https://amesweb.info/Screws/metric-thread-dimensions-calculator.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://amesweb.info/Screws/metric-thread-dimensions-calculator.aspx&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastEditorUserId="11157" LastEditDate="2020-07-07T14:18:27.847" LastActivityDate="2020-07-07T14:18:27.847" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14031" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-07-07T09:59:21.213" Score="1" ViewCount="1084" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am new here and also new for the 3D printers world.  I have built a 3D printer myself. Everything seems okay, but, when I install Marlin firmware I can't use the printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While my printer is connected to my power supply (12 V; 30 A) and when I push the button on the screen for selecting the menu items, Marlin is restarting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But, when I connect my computer with USB and power supply together, Its working fine&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am using RobotDyn Arduino Mega 2560, RobotDyn Graphic LCD controller, RobotDyn DRV8825&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any help will be highly appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21814" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-07-07T12:57:42.383" LastActivityDate="2023-01-07T10:30:51.167" Title="Marlin keeps restarting when I push the LCD controller button" Tags="|marlin|diy-3d-printer|reprap|arduino-mega-2650|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14032" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12033" CreationDate="2020-07-07T16:16:34.930" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;After a lot of hard work and months of replacing and inspecting this issue I realized what's going on. The bowden tube gets soft as it gets hotter and hotter which allows the filament which is being extruded and retracted at a high speed to wear down the side of the tube. After some time the tube gets stretched out and it will eventually tear and that is seens as the hole in the pictures I provided. The solution to this problem is to upgrade to an all metal hotend, instate less aggressive retraction settings (which is what I did), or closely monitor your prints and replace your bowden tubing when it does eventually get  damaged (which I also do).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17480" LastActivityDate="2020-07-07T16:16:34.930" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14033" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7603" CreationDate="2020-07-07T16:31:52.160" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been having the same issue with PETG when printing but I have found that if I slow the printer down to 50% speed that left me with a perfect top layer. I have a 20% infill with 4 top layers and at 50% speed I am printing at roughly 32mm/m. I am sure that will help give you better top layers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17480" LastActivityDate="2020-07-07T16:31:52.160" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14034" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13931" CreationDate="2020-07-07T16:33:02.017" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;While it is most certainly possible to use PETG as a support material, you might run into some trouble when the first layer of PETG goes down on top of the PLA. Since PETG prints so much hotter than PLA, the PETG may bond too aggressively to the PLA causing it to become very difficult to remove after the print has finished. I would say the hassle involved in using PETG to print supports outweighs any perceivable benefits as opposed to using PLA.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17480" LastActivityDate="2020-07-07T16:33:02.017" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14036" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7603" CreationDate="2020-07-07T17:02:40.707" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're using Slic3r, check what line widths it's using. By default it extrudes with dynamic widths up to considerably wider than the nozzle size. PETG is only borderline-printable at 40 mm/s with 0.4 mm line width and 0.2 mm layer height. If Slic3r increased some of the line widths to 0.55 mm or so like it typically does, you're likely getting underextrusion, and need to either go slower, constraint the line width narrower, use thinner layers, or find some way to increase the amount of material you can push through the nozzle per unit time (maybe going hotter or using a higher-power hotend).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2020-07-07T17:02:40.707" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14037" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14002" CreationDate="2020-07-07T17:44:43.660" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The potmeter does not work in UART operation, see e.g. &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.instructables.com/id/UART-This-Serial-Control-of-Stepper-Motors-With-th/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this quote&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You don't have to fiddle with jumpers to set your micro-steps, just&#xA;change it in the firmware, and you can dynamically change the amount&#xA;of current going to each stepper motor (no more adjusting that small&#xA;potentiometer on the driver board) just by sending a GCode command&#xA;(M906).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, you cannot change the Vref of a UART operated stepper driver, setting the current directly is the way to go on UART operated stepper drivers; in fact that is actually what you are doing on non-UART operated stepper drivers, you change the Vref to change the current through the stepper motor, the higher the voltage the higher the current through the stepper the more torque the stepper has.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-06-08T09:31:38.490" LastActivityDate="2021-06-08T09:31:38.490" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14040" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14045" CreationDate="2020-07-07T19:45:48.143" Score="1" ViewCount="461" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0046/3781/8929/files/CR-10-Max-_2.gif&quot; alt=&quot;Sensor&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9fDW1.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9fDW1.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;I'm just finishing the set-up of a CR-10 Max. It is a new printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't manage to feed the filament through the material shortage sensor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can hear the micro switch click; the LED turns blue, then a few millimeters after that (33 mm total from the entry point), there is something that prevents the filament from going forward. I don't see any switch on the outside of the sensor, and I applied a reasonable amount of force on the filament.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can you tell me how to troubleshoot this ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18571" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-07-07T20:10:29.143" LastActivityDate="2021-11-08T22:30:04.970" Title="How to feed the filament through the material shortage sensor?" Tags="|extruder|creality-cr-10|filament-sensor|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14041" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14043" CreationDate="2020-07-07T20:04:17.993" Score="1" ViewCount="231" Body="&lt;p&gt;So basically, I have 3 different types of steppers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A NEMA 23 stepper for the Z-axis,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a good quality NEMA 17 for Y-axis and&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;another lower quality NEMA 17 for X-axis.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This setup should work right?. I'm using TMC2209's stepper drivers and all are well within the drivers rated phase current limit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21785" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-07-08T07:12:08.570" LastActivityDate="2020-07-08T07:12:08.570" Title="Can I use different sized steppers for different axes?" Tags="|diy-3d-printer|stepper|nema-17|tmc2209|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14042" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14046" CreationDate="2020-07-08T01:32:45.770" Score="2" ViewCount="407" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a TEVO Tornado (bought quite recently) and I want to know what is the best type of smoothers MKS smoothers or TL smoothers? Are they the same thing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21823" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-07-08T07:44:32.133" LastActivityDate="2020-08-12T21:37:19.483" Title="Smoothers for TEVO Tornado printer" Tags="|stepper-driver|smoothing|tevo-tornado|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14043" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14041" CreationDate="2020-07-08T02:23:05.447" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Each axis is fine using a different stepper size and/or quality. You will still need to tune their operating current and steps/mm for each of course. Make sure your motor mounts fit too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Where it might become challenging is if you wanted two different steppers on the SAME axis. As in, a NEMA17 + NEMA23 for a dual Z axis. I don't think this is what you intend though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10458" LastActivityDate="2020-07-08T02:23:05.447" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14044" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-07-08T02:44:09.500" Score="1" ViewCount="80" Body="&lt;p&gt;As we know E3D nozzles use M6 threads. These are metric threads, so they've different tolerance classes but which tolerance class are they using?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21802" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-07-08T06:55:08.797" LastActivityDate="2020-07-08T06:55:08.797" Title="What tolerance class does E3D uses for their metric thread nozzles?" Tags="|nozzle|e3d-v6|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14045" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14040" CreationDate="2020-07-08T05:39:20.177" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've designed similar sensor casings, sometimes the filament catches a ridge/ledge or part of the cavity, even when it is chamfered or rounded. The arm of the limit switch pushes the filament up, away from the filament straight path.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Have you tried cutting the filament under a very sharp angle, that may work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2020-07-08T05:39:20.177" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14046" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14042" CreationDate="2020-07-08T07:43:42.363" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The use of smoothers totally depends on the stepper drivers you are using! Note that the TL and MKS smoothers do exactly the same thing. Both use an arrangement of 4 or 8 diodes. Details of the problems with drivers and the working of the smoothers is explained in &lt;a href=&quot;http://cabristor.blogspot.com/2015/02/drv8825-missing-steps.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this blog post&lt;/a&gt;. The problem is that some stepper drivers are not able to produce low currents as of the present dead-zone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;if we had a way to modify the motor so that with a voltage of 1.4 V there would be no current flowing, then the driver would be able to generate all the currents because it would always be spitting out more than the minimum voltage&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The diodes prevent current to flow at the cost of a voltage drop; a 1.4 V voltage drop (2 diodes) would prevent current to flow, as such you see diodes in series on the smoother boards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These MKS/TL smoothers help with smoothing out the signal going through stepper motors; e.g. the notoriously noisy DRV8825 motor drivers are known for a stepped sine curve rather than a smooth output.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More modern chipsets such as the TMC21xx, TMC22xx, and TMC51xx do a much better job at providing smooth signals, and surprisingly, so do the cheaper drivers like the A4988s!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So if you are using stepper drivers that do not produce a smooth sine wave, like the DRV8825 stepper drivers, you could potentially benefit from installing smoothers. This could help with salmon/zebra skin/moire and ringing print artifacts/defects.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To quote the popular All3DP 3D printing site from &lt;a href=&quot;https://all3dp.com/2/tl-smoother-should-i-add-one-to-my-3d-printer/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&amp;quot;TL Smoother: Should I Add One to My 3D Printer?&amp;quot;&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It’s a &lt;strong&gt;yes&lt;/strong&gt; if you’re running DRV8825 stepper drivers. This was&#xA;what TL smoothers were designed to do: fix a design flaw in the&#xA;DRV8825. Your mileage may vary based on your printer’s power supply,&#xA;but you’ll likely see noticeable improvements in print quality.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It’s a &lt;strong&gt;no&lt;/strong&gt; if you’re running newer Trinamic stepper drivers.&#xA;Trinamic drivers have many “smart” features built in that don’t suffer&#xA;from the same issues as the DRV8825 and already counter electrical&#xA;noise. As a post from Trinamic notes, adding TL smoothers doesn’t&#xA;provide any significant benefit; it only increases power consumption&#xA;and heat generation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It’s a &lt;strong&gt;maybe&lt;/strong&gt; if you’re running other drivers. Other stepper&#xA;drivers might not have the DRV8825’s design flaws, but they may&#xA;benefit from the slight electrical dampening created by the TL&#xA;smoother’s circuit. Considering the smoothers’ low cost (~\$8-15 for&#xA;packs of 3 or 4), it doesn’t hurt to try it out and let the results&#xA;speak for themselves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-08-12T21:37:19.483" LastActivityDate="2020-08-12T21:37:19.483" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14047" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14050" CreationDate="2020-07-08T10:08:43.587" Score="1" ViewCount="271" Body="&lt;p&gt;My Creality CR-10 Max is equipped with a BL Touch sensor for bed leveling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bed size is 450 mm x 450 mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is the 16 measurement points taken from a 4x4 grid:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;float  v[] = {-1.15625, -0.7625, 0.1525, 1.13,    &#xA;-1.1150, -0.5150, 0.2125, 1.650,    &#xA;-0.8525, -0.215,  0.510, 1.4425,    &#xA;-0.4125, 0.2649, 1.0350, 1.9050};&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which looks like this:&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rLIkc.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rLIkc.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bed doesn't look flat or level.  To what extent should I try to make the bed flat and level?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's now a day later, and the bed looks like this (image below) after turning the four knobs using AUX leveling (a helper to locate the nozzle above the knobs), so that the nozzle barely scratches a sheet of paper:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;float  v[] = {0.0849, 0.0599, 0.1549, 0.2874,&#xA;0.2674, 0.0624, -0.0425, 0.0699,&#xA;0.3374, 0.1199,  -0.0150, 0.0199,&#xA;0.5399, 0.3349, 0.1899, 0.2074};&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4OPQ5.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4OPQ5.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also notice that the bed is slightly concave in its center: using a straight edge (a steel ruler on its side), there is enough room in middle ninth (center square) under the ruler for one sheet of paper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18571" LastEditorUserId="14562" LastEditDate="2020-07-08T20:37:28.377" LastActivityDate="2020-07-09T04:46:33.610" Title="What is the next step after measuring the bed levels?" Tags="|bed-leveling|creality-cr-10|bltouch|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14048" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14051" CreationDate="2020-07-08T17:54:14.560" Score="2" ViewCount="1534" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Felix Tec 4 (Single Extruder) and at the moment I print for a relatively long time compared to my other prints. Recently I noticed that after a few hours of continuous printing the displayed temperature jumped by up to 10 °C, which is almost certainly not true. Since it is the temperature that jumps, it will probably be the thermistor that is broken, but what is broken that this only happens after several hours and not immediately?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think it does not have to do something with the G-code, because the temperature makes jumps of up to 10 °C in one second and back again. I had 2 pretty big prints to do. It happend on both of them, but I forgot to take screenshots on the first print which was much worse that the second one. Here is how it looked in OctoPrint on second print:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/o5yKN.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/o5yKN.png&quot; alt=&quot;Octoprint Temperature Display during second print&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For comparison I have entered the temparatures manually in OctoPrint and made a screenshot of the temparature&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aD7S7.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aD7S7.png&quot; alt=&quot;Octoprint Temparature at the beginging of a Print&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I searched the GCode for &lt;code&gt;M104&lt;/code&gt;, &lt;code&gt;M109&lt;/code&gt;, &lt;code&gt;M140&lt;/code&gt; and &lt;code&gt;M190&lt;/code&gt;, but only found &lt;code&gt;M190&lt;/code&gt; one time at the beginning, which I think is normal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21828" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-07-13T22:37:11.267" LastActivityDate="2020-07-13T22:37:11.267" Title="Displayed temperature jumping while printing for a long time" Tags="|hotend|heat-management|thermistor|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14050" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14047" CreationDate="2020-07-09T04:46:33.610" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Now that you have leveled the bed you are ready to start printing. To enable leveling for printing, you need to add G-code &lt;code&gt;G29&lt;/code&gt; directly after &lt;code&gt;G28&lt;/code&gt; in your start G-code of your slicer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The array values you reported are just for information or visualisation of the level of the bed. Although you have ABL you always need to provide a bed that is as level as best as you can, the ABL will take care of the final dents or skewness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2020-07-09T04:46:33.610" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14051" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14048" CreationDate="2020-07-09T12:02:33.937" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your temperature is not just bumping up 10 °C. Your hotend is fluctuating in temperature, it drops under and increases over the &amp;quot;set&amp;quot; temperature. The hotend temperature is a result of the amount heat you put into it and how much heat you pull from it (e.g. filament heats up and draws energy from the heater block), apart from a too large printing speed for the heater to follow the energy off-take, this can be the result of one of the following (or combined) issues:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your print cooling fan position is too high/not low enough, it cools the heater block/nozzle&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your PID settings are not correct&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many hotend designs come with silicone &amp;quot;socks&amp;quot; insulating the heater block and to shield airflow from cooling the heater block.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-07-10T12:08:56.387" LastActivityDate="2020-07-10T12:08:56.387" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14052" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14055" CreationDate="2020-07-09T18:07:38.317" Score="1" ViewCount="80" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was looking at some end high 3D printers (drooling just a little bit) when I found this.&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/e9kls.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/e9kls.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, this was a 3500 \$ printer when new back in 2016. I'm relatively to the 3D printing (well... kind of) and have not seen this type of design before. What is it? Cartesian? CoreXY? This style, from my limited knowledge, looks like a best of both worlds kind of scenario because if you look at it - it has that traditional simple Cartesian design, but with a light head of a CoreXY type printer (Exclude the circuitry behind the stepper, that is something else). This was designed to be used in a mechanical application, so it has to be precise. Is this a good configuration and does Marlin support it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21785" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-07-19T22:04:00.570" LastActivityDate="2020-07-19T22:04:00.570" Title="What type of kinamatics is 3D Gence One using?" Tags="|diy-3d-printer|linear-motion|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14053" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-07-09T18:07:44.560" Score="1" ViewCount="397" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have two TMC2208 stepper drivers, both with the exact same problem. They both only allow the motor to rotate in one direction. They are currently used inside a CoreXY style 3D printer. In my case, both the Z motors have this problem. (For example, if I lower the build plate, the build plate lowers, but when I want to raise the build plate, the motors still make the build plate go down).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have isolated this is a hardware problem by switching the defective motor drivers with my X and Y motor drivers, and after I did, the Z motors were able to raise and lower the build plate properly. However, the defective motor drivers seem to be able to turn the motors, so I don't understand where the problem originates from.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Possibly relevant details:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I have been using Pronterface to control my 3D printer manually.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Vrefs on my stepper drivers are set at X,Y,Z,Z2 on 0.9v, and E0 is on 1.1v&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;My stepper motors are &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.omc-stepperonline.com/nema-17-bipolar-59ncm-84oz-in-2a-42x48mm-4-wires-w-1m-cable-and-connector.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;these&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The TMC2208 are configured in StealthChop2 mode.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If there are any details I missed, please notify me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6938" LastEditorUserId="14562" LastEditDate="2020-07-10T00:30:32.380" LastActivityDate="2020-07-10T00:30:32.380" Title="Why does my TMC2208 only rotate my stepper motor in one direction?" Tags="|diy-3d-printer|stepper-driver|tmc2208|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14054" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-07-09T19:39:17.947" Score="3" ViewCount="9168" Body="&lt;p&gt;So bed scratching seems to be a real thing, and not a single post I've come across (I've looked at more than 30 by now) actually answers the question on exactly how to stop this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, I have an Ender 3 and this is becoming enough of a headache that I want to just give it away. I thought that the old bed was just wrecked so spend £30 on a new glass bed .. Guess what .. Wrecked that too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please don't suggest I level the bed - it is levelled, not gravitationally, but mechanically.&#xA;I have tightened everything up.&#xA;I have tried altering the XYZ axis on the actual printer.&#xA;I have tried adding some numbers to the Z axis in Cura, but it just snaps back down to zero.&#xA;I have played with base layer thickness, with no difference.&#xA;I have run &lt;strong&gt;nine&lt;/strong&gt; different test prints, with every single one coming out perfectly.&#xA;I have ABS at 250 °C and bed at 90 °C. Sticking to the bed is not a problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why .. Why, why why, is it scratching the bed when I then go to print something? Nothing has changed!! I even zero'd the test prints in Cura the same way I did my parts prints.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would seriously appreciate some help before I just toss this thing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21838" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-07-18T07:14:06.893" LastActivityDate="2020-08-18T09:04:10.443" Title="How to address bed scratching on a Creality Ender 3" Tags="|creality-ender-3|bed-leveling|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14055" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14052" CreationDate="2020-07-09T19:47:25.500" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm can't say for sure, since this is my first time seeing this type of 3D printer configuration too, but I think this is a cartesian style printer. If you think about it, it is similar to a Prusa-style printer, but instead of an x-gantry being raised and lowered by a leadscrew, the heated bed is being lowered and raised with two leadscrews. Software-wise, the printer you mentioned should be configured exactly like a Prusa-style printer, but with a reversed Z-axis, since to make the heated bed move closer to the hotend, it must be raised instead of lowered.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I personally do not think this printer is a CoreXY configuration since a CoreXY printer relies on two motors that work simultaneously to move the X and Y axis, while the printer you showed has the X and Y-axis moving independently of each other (as can be seen by the belt under the heated bed and the belt that moves the hotend left and right). At least, in my opinion, the way the X and Y-axis operate on a CoreXY is what makes the CoreXY unique, instead of the raising and lowering of the heated bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can read about the variations of Cartesian 3D printers &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.com/3dprinters/building-a-3d-printer-from-scratch-tips-tricks/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;. If you are interested in other styles of 3D printers, you can check the Delta and Polar style printer section of &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinterpower.com/four-fff-3d-printer-styles/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this article&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope I piqued your interest in 3D printing :D&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Feel free to comment on this if you have more things to ask, and I'll get back to you as soon as I can :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6938" LastEditorUserId="6938" LastEditDate="2020-07-09T19:59:44.230" LastActivityDate="2020-07-09T19:59:44.230" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14057" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-07-10T16:28:43.117" Score="0" ViewCount="584" Body="&lt;p&gt;I need help with a blender file not slicing properly, the results seem very strange to me.    I'm pretty new to 3D printing, I have an ender 3 pro, using Cura for slicing.    I have been using blender for a few years, but only sporadically so i'm still somewhat of a novice.     I am trying to build a chain guard for an electric motorcycle, fairly simple cylinder with a cutout for the chain, a couple holes for bolts and my logo on the top.    I'm not having very good luck with the solidify modifier so i've traied duplicating the mesh and closing the faces to make it solid, still not working.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I find strange about the slicing is that Cura builds all the supports correctly but doesnt print the cylinder, it also prints the logo fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My blend file is a mess, please help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CZAms.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CZAms.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MLiBG.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MLiBG.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BvmXD.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BvmXD.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21844" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2020-07-13T10:31:27.193" LastActivityDate="2020-07-13T10:31:27.193" Title="Blender file not slicing properly in Cura" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|troubleshooting|blender|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14059" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14129" CreationDate="2020-07-11T08:37:06.757" Score="2" ViewCount="4328" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently got an Ender 3 V2 and when I go to Info -&amp;gt; Version it says V1.0.0. &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.creality.com/download/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;However online, there is V1.0.1 available.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I update the Ender 3 V2. It is different as it isn't a ATMEL chip like the ATMEGA 2560 but rather an ARM processor. I own many arduino boards but apparently the chip has the bootloader already on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So how can I update the board, through some uploader, specific software or what exactly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21851" LastEditorUserId="4922" LastEditDate="2020-07-14T21:27:47.873" LastActivityDate="2020-07-23T02:12:22.163" Title="Updating an Ender 3 V2" Tags="|creality-ender-3|firmware|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14060" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14059" CreationDate="2020-07-11T08:43:18.820" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;After looking around for a bit in Cura. You can update it via Cura.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Start by going to your printer -&amp;gt; Manage printer&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then there is the option to update firmware. You must plug the printer in first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21851" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-07-11T11:17:24.470" LastActivityDate="2020-07-11T11:17:24.470" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14064" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-07-12T16:30:32.700" Score="2" ViewCount="523" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had a thought the other day that it's 100 % waste to have either a solid or hollow 3D-printed model in relation to utilizing the space inside of it for different modules, e.g. secret compartments, modules like salt/pepper shakers, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I thought the best way of achieving this in a streamlined semi-automated manner is creating a simple script in OpenSCAD / FreeCAD and I would love some professional input on how to achieve this exact process:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Split any given model at X height with Y angle Z times (eg. slicing a model in half &amp;amp; keeping both parts separate)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Make a hollow compartment inside the model with working 3D-printable threads sticking out from one part fitting into the other with definable shape, tolerance &amp;amp; size in relation to the parts size (eg. a cylindrical hidden compartment or a space where specific user-made modules fits into)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm thinking a few simple yet potent lines of OpenSCAD code or a FreeCAD script should do the trick but my knowledge is limited in this field at the moment so any input is highly appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21863" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-07-13T06:27:33.023" LastActivityDate="2020-07-13T06:27:33.023" Title="OpenSCAD / FreeCAD splitting, hollowing and threading model" Tags="|3d-design|openscad|freecad|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14065" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14064" CreationDate="2020-07-12T19:09:14.933" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;OpenSCAD lacks any facilities to perform computations on the resulting geometry (derived from CSG or directly imported). It has a decent functional language for expressing geometry in terms of parameters and functions/modules, but the road is one way; geometry is an output only and doesn't loop back into input. So automation of this entirely in OpenSCAD is really not an option.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other hand, doing it manually is rather easy. You can use CSG operations (intersection or difference) to cut the model, cut a compartment out of it, cut threads in it, etc. as well as (union) attaching external threads. You just have to decide how to size and position them for your model yourself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that there's no canonical module for doing threads in OpenSCAD. You can either derive the cross section for your thread profile (can be done with OpenSCAD code) then &lt;code&gt;linear_extrude&lt;/code&gt; it with twist (needs really fine division to be accurate though) or skin a &lt;code&gt;polyhedron&lt;/code&gt; for the thread. There are a few published modules for the latter and I have an unpublished one I prefer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2020-07-12T19:09:14.933" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14066" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-07-12T19:19:43.267" Score="-1" ViewCount="42" Body="&lt;p&gt;Looking to get into 3D printing without spending too much up front for now. Found an assembled seemecnc Rostock V2 for sale at a very good price considering its MSRP is 1k for the kit pre-assembly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is, will this 4 year old printer be significantly lacking in any way compared to a new lower-end printer from 2020? I know the technology moves so fast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks so much in advance,&#xA;Alex&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21867" LastActivityDate="2020-07-14T14:17:02.060" Title="SeemeCNC Rostock V2 in 2020" Tags="|print-quality|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14068" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7385" CreationDate="2020-07-13T11:29:38.463" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Red is the color Cura uses to mark overhang areas. For the bottom that is normal, it can be fixed by using support.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the top, the presence of red &lt;strong&gt;atop&lt;/strong&gt; the seeds is a common tell of inverted normals in the seeds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To fix, open your .blend file again, choose the seeds and &lt;code&gt;flip normals&lt;/code&gt;. To make the whole thing even better, choose both the fruit and the seeds and then apply the &lt;code&gt;union&lt;/code&gt; modifier on both.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastActivityDate="2020-07-13T11:29:38.463" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14069" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13559" CreationDate="2020-07-13T11:50:47.220" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Why there is no support on the top is, that the top of the model, over the gothic arch, has not enough thickness to have any layer laid down there. Because it is too thin, it gets omitted. However, since the area that needs support is only very very small, this area technically doesn't need support and could be printed with bridging alone. Yet, you need to add at least 1 layer thickness to the height of the model by extruding the top surface in blender to make this area printable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another way is to knock down the layer height.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastActivityDate="2020-07-13T11:50:47.220" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14070" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2020-07-13T11:58:57.800" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2020-07-13T11:58:57.800" LastActivityDate="2020-07-13T11:58:57.800" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14071" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2020-07-13T11:58:57.800" Score="0" Body="For questions about the free 3D design software blender in its use for 3D Printing." OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2020-07-13T11:58:57.800" LastActivityDate="2020-07-13T11:58:57.800" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14072" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-07-13T12:43:14.417" Score="0" ViewCount="35" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm having trouble with my customized Ender 3 Pro. It's running an SKR v1.3 board with Marlin and OctoPrint on a Raspberry Pi 4. My problem is that sometimes when the printer goes to print, instead of drawing the first line to prime the nozzle, it goes to max X and Y and extrudes what appears to be the full amount of plastic that would be extruded in a layer. It then proceeds to execute its Z-moves like it would in a print, without changing X and Y. The result is a lot of plastic being extruded very quickly in one location. There's also a BLTouch sensor on the machine. I've also come across the error while it's in the middle of a print. It'll just stop what it's doing on a layer, go to max X and Y and start extruding and raising the Z-axis.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I've tried to solve it:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Turned it off and on again. This sometimes works. After leaving the printer off for a while, I start the print again with the same exact G-code, and the print works perfectly. Sometimes this works, sometimes it doesn't.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Looked around in the Marlin firmware for errors. The Ender is running a version of Marlin I customized from the stock version to fit my hardware.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-07-13T22:29:57.477" LastActivityDate="2020-07-13T22:29:57.477" Title="Ender 3 Pro goes to one location on the bed and extrudes" Tags="|marlin|creality-ender-3|troubleshooting|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14073" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14074" CreationDate="2020-07-13T17:14:53.380" Score="0" ViewCount="869" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a &lt;strong&gt;Core XY Custom DIY Printer&lt;/strong&gt;, but actually I have a problem with the measure in Axis X and Y. When a print a test cube with the measure 20 mm x 20 mm 20 mm, the object printed result with these dimensions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Z = 20 mm&#xA;X = 15 mm&#xA;Y = 15 mm&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Well, I know how solved this problem, because of long time ago have the same problem, do a question, and that was answered, and this moment solved my problem. &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/10319/12715&quot;&gt;answer old question&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now I use the same process&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Connect the printer to my pc&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Use &lt;strong&gt;Simplify 3D&lt;/strong&gt; for send gcode to the machine&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;code&gt;M503&lt;/code&gt; for get the set values&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;code&gt;M92&lt;/code&gt; for change the values X and Y&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;code&gt;M500&lt;/code&gt; for store the new values for default in the memory of the printer&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;code&gt;M503&lt;/code&gt; for check the actual values, and these are the correct&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, I print the test cube, the measure are right, but with two problems&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Every time I.m will go to print, if turn off the machine, the process to be need repeat, in other words, the gcode &lt;code&gt;M500&lt;/code&gt; doesn't work.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the nozzle doesn't start the extrusion in the middle when the parameters were changed.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Send &lt;code&gt;M503&lt;/code&gt; for known the parameters. These parameters are the set by default At this moment in the printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;G21    ; (mm)&#xA;M149 C ; Units in Celsius&#xA;Filament settings: Disabled&#xA;M200 D1.75&#xA;M200 D0&#xA;Steps per unit:&#xA;M92 X80.00 Y80.00 Z400.00 E100.00&#xA;Maximum feedrates (units/s):&#xA;M203 X100.00 Y100.00 Z2.00 E10.00&#xA;Maximum Acceleration (units/s2):&#xA;M201 X2000 Y2000 Z50 E5000&#xA;Acceleration (units/s2): P&amp;lt;print_accel&amp;gt; R&amp;lt;retract_accel&amp;gt; T&amp;lt;travel_accel&amp;gt;&#xA;M204 P2000.00 R2000.00 T2000.00&#xA;Advanced: Q&amp;lt;min_segment_time_us&amp;gt; S&amp;lt;min_feedrate&amp;gt; T&amp;lt;min_travel_feedrate&amp;gt; X&amp;lt;max_x_jerk&amp;gt; Y&amp;lt;max_y_jerk&amp;gt; Z&amp;lt;max_z_jerk&amp;gt; E&amp;lt;max_e_jerk&amp;gt;&#xA;M205 Q20000 S0.00 T0.00 X5.00 Y5.00 Z0.40 E5.00&#xA;Home offset:&#xA;M206 X0.00 Y0.00 Z0.00&#xA;Material heatup parameters:&#xA;M145 S0 H180 B70 F0&#xA;M145 S1 H240 B110 F0&#xA;PID settings:&#xA;M301 P13.70 I0.71 D65.64&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After sending code &lt;code&gt;M92 X106.64 Y106.64&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;G21    ; (mm)&#xA;M149 C ; Units in Celsius&#xA;Filament settings: Disabled&#xA;M200 D1.75&#xA;M200 D0&#xA;Steps per unit:&#xA;M92 X106.64 Y106.64 Z400.00 E100.00&#xA;Maximum feedrates (units/s):&#xA;M203 X100.00 Y100.00 Z2.00 E10.00&#xA;Maximum Acceleration (units/s2):&#xA;M201 X2000 Y2000 Z50 E5000&#xA;Acceleration (units/s2): P&amp;lt;print_accel&amp;gt; R&amp;lt;retract_accel&amp;gt; T&amp;lt;travel_accel&amp;gt;&#xA;M204 P2000.00 R2000.00 T2000.00&#xA;Advanced: Q&amp;lt;min_segment_time_us&amp;gt; S&amp;lt;min_feedrate&amp;gt; T&amp;lt;min_travel_feedrate&amp;gt; X&amp;lt;max_x_jerk&amp;gt; Y&amp;lt;max_y_jerk&amp;gt; Z&amp;lt;max_z_jerk&amp;gt; E&amp;lt;max_e_jerk&amp;gt;&#xA;M205 Q20000 S0.00 T0.00 X5.00 Y5.00 Z0.40 E5.00&#xA;Home offset:&#xA;M206 X0.00 Y0.00 Z0.00&#xA;Material heatup parameters:&#xA;M145 S0 H180 B70 F0&#xA;M145 S1 H240 B110 F0&#xA;PID settings:&#xA;M301 P13.70 I0.71 D65.64&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dPw3h.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dPw3h.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;surface&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Red circle, the middle of the plate or surface printer, in this position, start to print with actual parameters by default, and respect the limits(black square), but, with the measure in axis X and Y wrong after printed the model.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Green circle, the nozzle start in this position when changing the parameter in axis X  and Y, printed with the measure correct, but by taking a position that is not the right one, it assumes other limits and spends almost half of the print surface area.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12715" LastEditorUserId="14562" LastEditDate="2020-07-13T19:28:21.670" LastActivityDate="2020-07-13T20:26:20.693" Title="How to start a print in the center position after a change in parameters using M92 and M500 G-code" Tags="|diy-3d-printer|g-code|surface|corexy|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14074" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14073" CreationDate="2020-07-13T17:56:00.347" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Every time I.m will go to print, if turn off the machine, the process to be need repeat, in other words, the gcode M500 doesn't work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This tells me that your firmware has the EEPROM support needed for the &lt;code&gt;M500&lt;/code&gt; command disabled.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Fixing the firmware&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You need to &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/12153/updating-marlin-firmware-step-by-step-guide&quot;&gt;update your firmware&lt;/a&gt; to enable storing the information in the EEPROM: the line should read as follows without any leading &lt;code&gt;//&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#define EEPROM_SETTINGS // Enable for M500 and M501 commands&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you are already updating your firmware, you should also fix your firmware to have the correct steps/mm, as those are off in your build. An example for the line you look for is&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT   { 106.64, 106.64, 4000, 500 }&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Workaround&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;automatic setting of the Steps/mm fix&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's a way to fix it on the user side though: When slicing, your Start-G-code needs to include &lt;code&gt;M92 X106.64 Y106.64&lt;/code&gt;, best before homing. That way you make sure that your printer sets the correct Steps/mm whenever you load a printjob.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Home position&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;via offset&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the home offset is wrong, you can fix it as the next line &lt;strong&gt;before&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;code&gt;G28&lt;/code&gt; - if the home position is for example 10 mm of the trigger in both X and Y, you'd add &lt;code&gt;M206 X100.00 Y100.00 Z0.00&lt;/code&gt; - If your printer has &amp;quot;home&amp;quot; properly defined in the center of the build plate and your slicer is set up to respect that, this should do it. You need to&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;via move and 0-ing&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another way to get the printhead to the center is to use &lt;strong&gt;first&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;code&gt;G28&lt;/code&gt;, then insert a movement to the center of the bed (&lt;code&gt;G0 X100 Y100&lt;/code&gt; for a bed 200 mm across) and then order &lt;code&gt;G92 X0 Y0&lt;/code&gt;, defining that point as the origin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;necessary next line!&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In either case, the setup of Marlin also prevents you to move to the &amp;quot;negative&amp;quot; area due to the software endstops by default. So you need to add &lt;code&gt;M121&lt;/code&gt; after it to be allowed to go into the negative space.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Start G-code in bulk&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;M92 X106.64 Y106.64&#xA;G28&#xA;G0 X100 Y100 ; move to center&#xA;G92 X0 Y0&#xA;M121&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2020-07-13T20:26:20.693" LastActivityDate="2020-07-13T20:26:20.693" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14075" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6051" CreationDate="2020-07-13T19:29:25.987" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;My problem was like yours and after several test I found bad PID tunning in heated bed disturb hotend temperature process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Before heated bed PID tunning:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XH6RC.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XH6RC.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I fixed PID values for heated bed everything works like a charm :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21880" LastActivityDate="2020-07-13T19:29:25.987" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14076" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14090" CreationDate="2020-07-14T03:03:48.837" Score="0" ViewCount="1185" Body="&lt;p&gt;I need to set the &lt;code&gt;HOME_POS&lt;/code&gt; manually since it isn't printing in the center of the bed. But whenever I try to upload it to the Melzi 2.0 board I get an &lt;code&gt;out of sync&lt;/code&gt; error.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am using Arduino IDE on Manjaro Linux, I was able to upload Marlin to the board on Windows 10 but I have since removed that OS.&#xA;I have the correct settings for the board: Sanguino Atmega 1280 or 1280P (16mhz)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is what I have tried to get me this far:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Running Arduino IDE as root (administrator) which fixed the&#xA;&lt;code&gt;permission denied&lt;/code&gt; error&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Changing the Board and the processor settings&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Uploading a fresh Marlin firmware with no changes&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Uploading a simple program to my Arduino UNO which worked&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Changing USB Ports (USB 3.0, USB 2.0)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Changing the Baud Rate from 115200 to 57600&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is the (verbose) error message&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Arduino: 1.8.12 (Linux), Board: &amp;quot;Sanguino, ATmega1284 or ATmega1284P (16 MHz)&amp;quot;&#xA;&#xA;Sketch uses 107854 bytes (82%) of program storage space. Maximum is 130048 bytes.&#xA;Global variables use 4054 bytes (24%) of dynamic memory, leaving 12330 bytes for local variables. Maximum is 16384 bytes.&#xA;/root/.arduino15/packages/arduino/tools/avrdude/6.3.0-arduino17/bin/avrdude -C/root/.arduino15/packages/arduino/tools/avrdude/6.3.0-arduino17/etc/avrdude.conf -v -patmega1284p -carduino -P/dev/ttyUSB0 -b115200 -D -Uflash:w:/tmp/arduino_build_963029/Marlin.ino.hex:i &#xA;&#xA;avrdude: Version 6.3-20190619&#xA;         Copyright (c) 2000-2005 Brian Dean, http://www.bdmicro.com/&#xA;         Copyright (c) 2007-2014 Joerg Wunsch&#xA;&#xA;         System wide configuration file is &amp;quot;/root/.arduino15/packages/arduino/tools/avrdude/6.3.0-arduino17/etc/avrdude.conf&amp;quot;&#xA;         User configuration file is &amp;quot;/root/.avrduderc&amp;quot;&#xA;         User configuration file does not exist or is not a regular file, skipping&#xA;&#xA;         Using Port                    : /dev/ttyUSB0&#xA;         Using Programmer              : arduino&#xA;         Overriding Baud Rate          : 115200&#xA;avrdude: stk500_getsync() attempt 1 of 10: not in sync: resp=0x73&#xA;avrdude: stk500_getsync() attempt 2 of 10: not in sync: resp=0x74&#xA;avrdude: stk500_getsync() attempt 3 of 10: not in sync: resp=0x61&#xA;avrdude: stk500_getsync() attempt 4 of 10: not in sync: resp=0x72&#xA;avrdude: stk500_getsync() attempt 5 of 10: not in sync: resp=0x74&#xA;avrdude: stk500_getsync() attempt 6 of 10: not in sync: resp=0x0a&#xA;avrdude: stk500_getsync() attempt 7 of 10: not in sync: resp=0x65&#xA;avrdude: stk500_getsync() attempt 8 of 10: not in sync: resp=0x63&#xA;avrdude: stk500_getsync() attempt 9 of 10: not in sync: resp=0x68&#xA;avrdude: stk500_getsync() attempt 10 of 10: not in sync: resp=0x6f&#xA;&#xA;avrdude done.  Thank you.&#xA;&#xA;An error occurred while uploading the sketch&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21491" LastEditorUserId="21491" LastEditDate="2020-07-16T00:59:54.480" LastActivityDate="2020-07-16T02:33:16.190" Title="Unable to upload Marlin 2.0 to Melzi 2.0 board" Tags="|marlin|firmware|arduino|linux|melzi|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14077" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13897" CreationDate="2020-07-14T04:40:32.507" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;After a lot of experimenting and trying several different things I finally discovered the &lt;strong&gt;'vase mode'&lt;/strong&gt;. In this mode the 3D printer makes a hollow object with a single-layer outer shell.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The corresponding setting is called &lt;strong&gt;'spiralize outer contour'&lt;/strong&gt; in Cura 4.6.1. In this mode the printer does not make distinct layers and prints the whole shell in one continuous motion (&lt;a href=&quot;https://photos.app.goo.gl/oxoW32fq4dEGyx7Y7&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;video&lt;/a&gt;), exactly as I need it. The print is done faster, and the quality is dramatically better!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Aihpq.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Aihpq.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;improved print&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The downside is that only one model can be built in this mode. If you place several models on the build plate, they will get connected by a wall. However, there is a workaround in Cura: under 'Special modes' set 'Print sequence' to 'One at a time'. Ultimaker will print several model one after another provided they are not tall and you leave enough space between them (dark area in the picture below). I could print up to 12 models at once, which is enough for me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sY731.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sY731.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21597" LastActivityDate="2020-07-14T04:40:32.507" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14078" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-07-14T06:32:52.903" Score="1" ViewCount="579" Body="&lt;p&gt;At my work, we have 3x Ultimaker 2+, 1x Ultimaker 3 and 1x PRUSA i3 mk3s. The Ultimakers have been used quite a lot for the past three years, but the belts and bearings seem ok.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I got heavy ringing with all Ultimakers, but the print on the PRUSA is neat even at a higher speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a Ultimaker 2+ which I use together with CURA. I print in PLA at 210°C. The print bed is set to 60 °C. I use a print cooling fan at 60 %. The layer height I set to 0.2 mm, the line width 0.8 from the 0.4 mm nozzle. The Printing Speed is set to 30 mm/s for walls and 50 mm/s for infill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this a known issue with Ultimakers?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I fix it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VLPVj.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VLPVj.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The comparison with what I get with the PRUSA is uncanny:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AUeJt.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AUeJt.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have tighten the screws on the extruding head and cleaned the machine, but I still notice a mechanical play. Therefore, the result is not satisfying...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/wSmeTBzTbk4?start=0&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uQkL6.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uQkL6.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mvez6.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mvez6.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18785" LastEditorUserId="18785" LastEditDate="2020-07-15T14:27:15.593" LastActivityDate="2020-07-15T14:27:15.593" Title="Ringing with Ultimakers, what is the cause?" Tags="|print-quality|prusa-i3|ultimaker|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14079" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14066" CreationDate="2020-07-14T14:17:02.060" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I definitely wouldn't start with a Delta printer.&#xA;Cartesian printers have become &amp;quot;the norm&amp;quot; for a good reason - they're very easy to use and tune, so I'd recommend getting an Ender 3 or Biqu B1.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It'll still print just fine, but that MSRP is in no way realistic in 2020. If it's offered under maybe 100$, it might be interesting as a secondary machine, but I wouldn't pay more than that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13171" LastActivityDate="2020-07-14T14:17:02.060" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14081" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14078" CreationDate="2020-07-14T20:27:13.977" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;have been used quite a lot for the past three years&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem, even if belts and such seem ok, might be that other parts start to wear out. The part that contributes te most to ringing is the motion system. Grooves in rails or worn out bearings are a classic way that introduces some freedom in the system that can result in rattle and ringing. A photo of the rails and bearings might help to identify wear. Remember that most bearings need some sort of lubricant to work properly and reduce the wear in them, which should be part of the maintenance cycle!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another source for the errors could be found in the extrusion system. For example, there might be an increased play in the gearing as springs under constant pressure can lose some tension, resulting in too little pressure on the filament, which typically would show up as under extrusion if the pressure is lost completely. On the other side, the hobbled gear that pushes the filament might be worn, resulting in a lack of responsiveness of the filament movement, again resulting in under extrusion after some point. Once more, photos of this area could help to indicate wear and tear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another source might be the mounting of the printer - it has been shown beneficial to put printers on a slab of concrete that itself is dampened on a medium density foam, resulting in even dampening that is usually better than the rubber feet of many printers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2020-07-14T22:30:42.527" LastActivityDate="2020-07-14T22:30:42.527" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14082" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14083" CreationDate="2020-07-15T03:00:07.590" Score="1" ViewCount="477" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm using latest stable Marlin 1.1.9.1 with BLTouch. The BLTouch seems a bit damaged so I want to increase its accuracy with multiple measurements.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've increased &lt;code&gt;#define MULTIPLE_PROBING&lt;/code&gt; to 3 but it seems it applies only to mesh ABL and doesn't work with single center homing.&#xA;I want to get something like fastprobe + average for two or three slow probes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Am I missing something? Or it is not possible?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21902" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-07-15T22:07:33.963" LastActivityDate="2020-07-15T22:07:33.963" Title="Increase Z-homing probe number" Tags="|marlin|bltouch|z-probe|homing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14083" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14082" CreationDate="2020-07-15T06:48:01.050" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Homing and mesh probing are 2 separate actions, by setting &lt;code&gt;#define MULTIPLE_PROBING&lt;/code&gt; to 3, you inherently create 3 slow probing points for the mesh probing (not the homing probing), with 2 you get a fast/slow probing action.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Everything is possible, but, that means that you need to dig into the sources; not changing the configuration constants. That is not for the faint hearted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've seen the responses of fast and slow probing in action, usually the difference is not existent or very very small, like one or two hundredths of a millimeter, I seriously wonder if it makes sense to use more than 2 probing points.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please note that a damaged bed may benefit more from increasing the probing array amount (from 3 x 3 to 4 x 4 / 5 x 5). The number of probing points discussed earlier only dictates the amount of probing actions in a single point; if the sensor hits the bed the probe measurement is done, if it hits again, the value should more or less be the same (give or take the accuracy of the sensor), I do not see what damage to a bed would imply more probing measurements in a single spot. The only rationale would be if the sensor itself has a large inaccuracy with an error that is not systematic, but random. My BLTouch (original) is pretty accurate and repeatable, I've had more issues with all those cheap knock-offs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-07-15T22:00:22.163" LastActivityDate="2020-07-15T22:00:22.163" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14084" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-07-15T14:15:06.823" Score="0" ViewCount="53" Body="&lt;p&gt;One of the biggest challenges with 3D-drawings is internal surfaces unintentionally formed that cause slicing not to work properly. This is using SketchUp Pro, slicing with Slic3r, and printing with a Reprap X400. Eliminating lines unnecessary to form the outside surfaces helps, but this may not eliminate all the internal surfaces which can be hard to see even with an x-ray view. It often takes deleting an external surface, looking for internal surfaces to select and delete, then adding the external surface back, being careful not to use a line that also adds the internal surface back.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This can be a huge issue when importing an STL file into SketchUP. The import seems to prefer using all triangles and thus the maximum number of lines with no attempt to see which are unnecessary, leaving it up to the user to eliminate lines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What techniques do you have for eliminating or avoiding unwanted internal surfaces in drawings?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15075" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2020-08-15T20:32:06.503" LastActivityDate="2020-08-15T20:32:06.503" Title="Eliminating unwanted internal surfaces" Tags="|3d-models|3d-design|slic3r|sketchup|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14085" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-07-15T15:56:10.620" Score="0" ViewCount="805" Body="&lt;p&gt;The part at the front has only one layer, and has what appears to be uneven patches. The part at the back has had two layers, so it clears itself up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The build plate is flat, and level (I levelled it before the print) and by the way the patches are all together I think I can rule out flow issues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is going on, and is it a problem? See the image below, for an example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YctkK.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YctkK.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;first layer&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Setup and configuration:&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sheet glass bed&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;White PLA (Geeetech from Amazon) - opened the same day&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;190 °C nozzle, 55 °C bed&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ender 5 printer, with Cura 4.6 slicer&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have changed the filament (still PLA), re-levelled the bed, and here is the bottom of a large flat surface:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JMFjV.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JMFjV.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;black pla underside&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also the top surface has 'ringing' artefacts (I think that is what they are called?):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YqVhc.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YqVhc.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;top side, with ringing&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3864" LastEditorUserId="3864" LastEditDate="2020-07-30T08:14:29.500" LastActivityDate="2020-07-30T08:14:29.500" Title="Patchy first layer on glass bed" Tags="|pla|creality-ender-5|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14086" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14084" CreationDate="2020-07-15T17:12:22.700" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am sorry to tell you that SketchUp is not a good software for printable 3D designs due to its exporting feature not properly reducing complexity. It creates unnecessary faces and vertices inside of items on a regular basis, which in the slicer creates artifacts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To make a SketchUp created file well printable, a huge amount of careful re-engineering in a graphics program like Blender is needed, manually removing the excess vertices surfaces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastActivityDate="2020-07-15T17:12:22.700" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14087" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14088" CreationDate="2020-07-15T18:48:28.697" Score="1" ViewCount="194" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was wondering how WiFi based 3D Printing works since I want to start an open source project and need some information on this. I have done some research, I have now an understanding on how the printer interprets the G-code and how it acts upon the instructions. But what I couldn't find information on is how WiFi based 3D printing works&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;What is the communication between the slicer (such as Cura) and the board?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;How are the commands sent to the printer from the slicer, line by line or the entire G-code?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;How do I establish a connection between the slicer and the board?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am well aware of the already existent Raspberry Pi idea compatible with Octoprint but I am making a much cheaper one&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for any help&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21851" LastEditorUserId="4922" LastEditDate="2020-07-15T19:31:08.130" LastActivityDate="2020-08-03T12:17:41.350" Title="How does wireless 3D printing work?" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|g-code|wi-fi|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14088" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14087" CreationDate="2020-07-15T19:26:52.717" Score="6" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Slicers don't talk to the printer. Slicers analyze an STL file and generate a GCODE file, based on your parameters. A print manager sends the commands from the GCODE file to the printer board, which executes them sequentially.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;They are not. Commands are sent to the printer from a print manager of some sort. This varies among printers; some printers can be managed by more than one manager, and some managers can handle many models of printer. Some printer-manager pairs are proprietary and exclusive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You do not. See above.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note, some programs &lt;em&gt;do&lt;/em&gt; have an integrated slicer and print manager. - Thanks, Trish&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4922" LastEditorUserId="4922" LastEditDate="2020-08-03T12:17:41.350" LastActivityDate="2020-08-03T12:17:41.350" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14090" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14076" CreationDate="2020-07-16T02:33:16.190" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Okay thanks to @towe for helping me I figured it out.  my Baud Rate was set to 115200 but my board is using the old bootloader so it needed to be 57600.  I Changed my boards.txt file to that but the verbose console printed:&#xA;&lt;code&gt;Overriding Baud Rate          : 115200&lt;/code&gt; turns out you need to change it in the serial monitor as well (the little magnifying glass in the top corner of the IDE)&#xA;after that everything worked great thanks for all the help!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21491" LastActivityDate="2020-07-16T02:33:16.190" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14091" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14092" CreationDate="2020-07-16T10:36:53.157" Score="2" ViewCount="914" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have seen some videos like &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V9SrWvJJtaI&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this one&lt;/a&gt;, that uses 3D printing to make a piece that will be used to make a silicone mold that will then be used to make the final object made of some resin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Isn't possible to make the mold directly from the 3D printing process?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to make an object (that's actually another mold to make tofu) using a flexible mold. Can I use 3D SLA printing with a flexible material such as &lt;a href=&quot;https://formlabs.com/materials/flexible-elastic/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this one&lt;/a&gt; and then use it to make my final mold made of some liquid resin? Also, do you have any suggestions about food grand liquid resin or similar?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21913" LastEditorUserId="14562" LastEditDate="2020-07-16T14:01:14.113" LastActivityDate="2021-01-09T10:59:02.270" Title="Use SLA 3D printing to make a flexible mold" Tags="|sla|resin|molds|flexible|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14092" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14091" CreationDate="2020-07-16T11:33:22.030" Score="3" Body="&lt;h1&gt;Background&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;SLA relies on the properties of UV-curing Resin. Most currently available UV Curing Resins harden to a solid, hard polymer, but that doesn't mean there are no other UV curing resins that are elastic. Most however will not be suitable for SLA or DLP systems!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Polyurethanes, which can be flexible if cured in the right way, have not come onto the market as suitable SLA/DLP printing material and up to now, I have only found one UV hardening resin on the market - the one offered by FormLabs and identified by OP&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Patent History&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Indeed, elastic resins are actually quite new. The first patent I could find for an elastic resin was &lt;a href=&quot;https://patents.google.com/patent/EP1602689B1/en&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;2003 for an elastic epoxy resin&lt;/a&gt;, while subsequent elastic resins were brought to Patent are different like the &lt;a href=&quot;https://patents.google.com/patent/US20100298473&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;2007 elastic olefin resin&lt;/a&gt;. In fact, there is a &lt;a href=&quot;https://patents.google.com/patent/US8980971&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;2013 US patent on SLA Resin&lt;/a&gt;, which is still in effect. As a result of such patents being still in effect or just out of protection times, the market is still very much limited because most manufacturers simply lack the knowledge of how to do it or the licenses to be allowed to do it. In fact, &lt;a href=&quot;https://patents.google.com/?assignee=formLabs&amp;amp;oq=formLabs&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Formlabs&lt;/a&gt; is named on 43 patents for 3D printers and accessories, of which only 1 is expired as of July 2020. I could not identify the patent that might be in use for their flexible resin, but the &lt;a href=&quot;https://formlabs-media.formlabs.com/datasheets/2001418-TDS-ENUS-0.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;marketing material&lt;/a&gt; is of May 2020, so it is relatively new on the market and might not have been updated into either the patent database or FormLabs did buy an exclusive license for the material from someone else, meaning they will not show up as Assignee in it. Or it is kept a trade secret.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Material implications&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The printed mold will probably be of a different stiffness than a cast mold as you work with a totally different material and your new molds might degrade at a different speed than urethane or latex cast molds. To get a feel for this this, you will need to run some experiments. As FormLabs hands out test specimens of their print materials, you might order the two flexible ones and then test their stiffness and suitability for your uses by having them interact with your casting resin and seeing if they break down and if you can remove them easily.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Food grade&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Generally&lt;/strong&gt; don't consider anything that comes directly from a 3D printer &lt;em&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/6941/8884&quot;&gt;certifiable food safe&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/em&gt;, as you need to have &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/151/8884&quot;&gt;both a process and a material&lt;/a&gt; that is food rated. There are ways to use the resulting parts to manufacture food safe objects, but that's elaborated for example in some of the questions I suggest to &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/tagged/food+safety&quot;&gt;look into&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastActivityDate="2020-07-16T11:33:22.030" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14093" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13270" CreationDate="2020-07-16T13:21:54.080" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Bad filament is my answer. I bought PRLine and both print terrible like your picture. Suspect 2 factors, one is that the line is less than 1.75, so they underextrude and so you see those lines and in some cases gaps, second is the material itself is slippery suggesting to me that it has florinated additives.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21916" LastActivityDate="2020-07-16T13:21:54.080" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14094" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7740" CreationDate="2020-07-17T06:44:56.443" Score="0" Body="&lt;h2&gt;I'm having the same problem but worse.&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some parts of the print are squished and towards the middle I will have bad or no bed adhesion. I always have to print with a raft or else the first layer will fail.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Borosilicate glass&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From what I've read online the best solution it to replace the build plate or add a pad on top of your build surface. The most recommended one is borosilicate glass. It has good heat conductivity and is very stiff.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21923" LastActivityDate="2020-07-17T06:44:56.443" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14095" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-07-17T10:12:54.680" Score="4" ViewCount="9260" Body="&lt;p&gt;On a Creality CR-10 Max, there is a bag of unidentified spares, which include three unmarked nozzles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a needle that is exactly 0.4 mm in diameter, which needle fits exactly inside one of nozzles. It also fits loosely in the largest nozzle, which diameter looks like it's really close to 0.8 mm on my digital caliper. The smallest one has only room for the tip of the needle, and the digital caliper reads 0.34 mm on the tip of the needle when pushed from the inside of the nozzle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I assume the sizes are: 0.8 mm, 0.4 mm and 0.3 mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can you tell me how to measure the diameter with better accuracy?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18571" LastEditorUserId="14562" LastEditDate="2020-07-17T12:50:53.790" LastActivityDate="2020-07-17T14:01:19.577" Title="How to measure the nozzle diameter?" Tags="|nozzle|creality-cr-10|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14096" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14095" CreationDate="2020-07-17T11:34:04.057" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have found that normal measuring devices are not particularly helpful with accurately measuring nozzle diameters. But you're already off to a great start.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is helpful is to take them somewhere that has a wide assortment of drill bits, and find which two adjacent sizes will and will not fit in the (clean) nozzle; then convert the diameters to mm (if needed), and your nozzle is larger than the small bit, but smaller than the large bit. From that, you should be able to narrow it down to a standard dimension.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4922" LastActivityDate="2020-07-17T11:34:04.057" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14097" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7533" CreationDate="2020-07-17T12:58:37.280" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Basically you have 2 issues, first, an adhesion in combination with layer thickness problem, second, an infill problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Starting with the infill issue, when you lower the layer height, without increasing the amount of layers for the &amp;quot;Top/Bottom Thickness&amp;quot;, you get a very thin shell (unless the top bottom thickness is expressed in mm). A lower layer height should, because of the lesser amount of filament being extruded over the infill, should be accompanied with a higher infill value, but that is necessary for the top layers, your issue is with the bottom layer and adhesion. As said, a lower layer height also implies lower filament flow, for the first layer this lower flow causes an inconsistent flow to adhere the filament to the bed (probably caused by the gap between the nozzle and bed from leveling with a piece of paper). Most slicers will add some extra features to increase the change to get the filament to stick to the bed; one of those is an increased first layer height (e.g. in Ultimaker Cura, the first default layer height for Ultimaker 3 printers is laarger than the rest of the layers), others include modifying the flow by e.g. over-extruding for the first layer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could try to increase your first layer height to the value you create successful prints with, specify the thickness of the bottom and top (or increase the amount of layers for printing these) and increase the infill percentage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-12-17T12:55:04.083" LastActivityDate="2020-12-17T12:55:04.083" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14098" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14095" CreationDate="2020-07-17T14:01:19.577" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;em&gt;correct&lt;/em&gt; tool for measuring a hole usually is a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EN_PHXlPJ0w&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Bore Gauge&lt;/a&gt;, but that doesn't work for super small holes like nozzles and generally needs holes at least 5 mm in diameter. For those small holes, there's a different tool:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JnGF2.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JnGF2.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These are Thread Measuring Wires of known diameter. While generally used to find out the &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/L3rINJWcmbA?t=780&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;depth of thread&lt;/a&gt; you are dealing with in a threaded (or if your thread is correct depth), they are also useful for measuring small bores. In this capacity, You'll use them as follows: The diameter of a hole can accompany any &lt;em&gt;smaller&lt;/em&gt; diameter, but never a &lt;em&gt;larger&lt;/em&gt; diameter wire, so a clean nozzle of 0.4 mm should accompany a 0.3 and o.35 easy but not a 0.45. A 0.4 might or might not fit, depending on how accurate the hole is. You'll need a very fine set of thread gauges though, and wires, pins, and needles of known diameter are a suitable replacement for this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastActivityDate="2020-07-17T14:01:19.577" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14100" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14121" CreationDate="2020-07-18T11:45:41.173" Score="0" ViewCount="428" Body="&lt;p&gt;I get the error &amp;quot;&lt;code&gt;Thermal runaway on E1. Reset printer.&lt;/code&gt;&amp;quot; today on my Tevo Tarantula when powering on the printer. The display shows the error and the speaker beeps loudly everytime I power on the printer or reset it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I use the firmware&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/JimBrown/MarlinTarantula&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://github.com/JimBrown/MarlinTarantula&lt;/a&gt;, because I can switch E0 heat nozzle to E1 wires, without soldering; PID's for nozzle were configured, and works fine before I replaced the power supply.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Recently my power supply was broken, and today I installed new power supply, clean nozzle, several times start bed leveling, and on fourth time of homing error appeared.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Power supply voltage tested with a multimeter and the voltage of power supply is 12.06V.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: several times printer started bed leveling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21932" LastEditorUserId="14562" LastEditDate="2020-07-19T15:12:38.763" LastActivityDate="2020-08-08T13:34:00.963" Title="Thermal runaway when power on" Tags="|hotend|tevo-tarantula|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14101" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12119" CreationDate="2020-07-18T14:10:51.570" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could try printing slower and/or increase cooling ( possibly even a cooler bed temp) if you absolutely want to avoid supports, or just use supports with a support interface and tweak support distance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21934" LastEditorUserId="21934" LastEditDate="2020-07-18T20:24:27.893" LastActivityDate="2020-07-18T20:24:27.893" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14104" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14054" CreationDate="2020-07-19T08:37:49.040" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most likely your print surface is uneven. You can try rebuilding your firmware with mesh bed levelling that allows you to manually probe and store n*n grid bed mesh setting the height offsets at each point manually (however, on stock setup you might need to disable certain features for the compiled firmware to fit). Other option would be to use some kind of ABL as mentioned above. You can also try installing Z offset plugin on Cura and raise it up a bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The last thing to check would be comparing the test gcode to your slicer generated ones (via any text editor) looking for differences in G0/G1 Z movement in the beginning of the gcode. If there are ant differences, that would give you a hint where to progress further.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21934" LastActivityDate="2020-07-19T08:37:49.040" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14105" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14106" CreationDate="2020-07-19T12:26:27.243" Score="2" ViewCount="1006" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was wondering how slicers work, how their code runs to generate a G-Code file. How is an STL file interpreted through a slicer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How does the math work for generating supports, build plate adhesion?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I couldn't find any information, so can anyone help with this technical question&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ryan&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21851" LastEditorUserId="14562" LastEditDate="2020-07-19T21:58:46.830" LastActivityDate="2020-07-19T21:58:46.830" Title="How do slicers convert an STL file to G-Code?" Tags="|slicing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14106" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14105" CreationDate="2020-07-19T12:51:08.743" Score="6" Body="&lt;h1&gt;Slicing in General&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An STL is a set of triangle surfaces. A Watertight STL - for slicing purposes - has surfaces that always create closed outlines if cut parallel to the XY plane.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A Slicer does exactly that: it creates plane-cuts at the indicated Z-heights, takes the plane-cut's outline(s), and decides a direction and order in which to follow the generated path. Then it uses this outline to generate the infill pattern, for example, as explained &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6832/how-are-infill-paths-connect-to-form-an-efficient-path-that-respect-the-objects/6836#6836&quot;&gt;here.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The more paths there are and the smaller the triangles that are cut up, the more complex the solution process becomes and the longer it takes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Support calculation&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A slicer usually identifies areas that need support by calculating at which angle an STL Surface cuts a given plane cut. Under standard settings, this would be about less than 60° to the XY-plane with the normal of the surface having a negative Z-component - which means that a needle poking out of that surface points towards the bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The most simple form of support generation simply generates a grid pattern between such areas and the bed or next surface below. Tree support on the other tries to generate a support structure that bends around the object without intersecting and only relying on the support of itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Build Plate adhesion&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A skirt and brim are just taking the outline of the build-plate intersection and surround that with outlines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A Raft is generated like the simple support case, but taking the whole base of the object, adding a little edge around it and then generating the support grid there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2020-07-19T19:06:35.053" LastActivityDate="2020-07-19T19:06:35.053" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14108" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-07-19T23:55:45.230" Score="0" ViewCount="65" Body="&lt;p&gt;I built a custom 3D printer using a BTT SKR Mini e3 v1.2 and use Pronterface to run my prints.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem I've been experiencing with it is from time to time the printer will attempt to print with a scale much bigger than what I wanted (roughly twice as big). I test with the same slicer file, and on different attempts it will print with different scales. It seems that the stepper motors run twice as fast and that is what is causing the change in scale. Has anyone had this happened?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20505" LastEditorUserId="14562" LastEditDate="2020-07-20T21:00:58.927" LastActivityDate="2020-07-20T21:00:58.927" Title="Printer scaling is randomly off" Tags="|scaling|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14110" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10683" CreationDate="2020-07-20T21:13:40.430" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A way to save energy would be use a pretty tight enclosure around the printer, I think a pretty thin layer of insulation would be enough to reduce power usage by a large factor. I've not build one myself yet but there seems to be so many benefits.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21964" LastActivityDate="2020-07-20T21:13:40.430" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14111" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14137" CreationDate="2020-07-21T06:32:01.590" Score="1" ViewCount="1622" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;TL;DR: Upper layers of a stringing pyramid test are missing retractions in the G-code.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit 1: added printer info and additional settings.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Edit 2: Clearing up confusing wording.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;I wrote a program to parse the G-code and count the retraction-extension pairs between layers. The first 17 layers (base) and 18-95 (pyramid start) have the appropriate number of extruder calls. I expect an extension at the start of the layer, retraction before moving to the second tower, extension to print the second tower, and a retraction before moving back to the first tower.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;After layer 95 of 391 the number of retraction pairs starts to decrease from missing a pair every other layer to eventually almost no retraction pairs. The last 70-ish layers have a retraction pair every dozen or so layers.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Perhaps this is related somehow to the shrinking width of the pyramid since the missing retraction-extension pairs increase as the pyramid comes to a point&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Disabling Z-Hop shows no difference in this behavior&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Original question:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;After switching to a 0.2 mm nozzle I starting printing some calibration tests to find my stringing pyramids end up looking like a pair of trees. I suspect I've always had this issue, but it's much more evident now with a smaller nozzle that likes to ooze.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is on an Ender 3, so using a Bowden tube, with a MicroSwiss all metal hot end and the extruder mechanism is aluminum with a pair of toothed drive gears. I'm seeing the problem in 1.75mm PLA of multiple well regarded manufacturers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Relevant Settings (let me know of other settings I should list):&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;enabled retraction&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;combing mode 'off'&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;enabled z-hop when retracted&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;retraction distance 3.5mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;retraction speed 50mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;retraction minimum travel 1.5mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Infil 100%&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looking at the G-code, sometimes I see a retraction paired with the Z-hop, but sometimes it's missing. It seems pretty random for when it's missing, but the first quarter or so of the layers do not show the problem. Originally I thought it had something to do with extruder drift over time, or something crazy, until I looked at the G-code and saw it was missing commands.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Snippit of retracting for Z-hop:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;G1 F1200 X204.632 Y161.781 E77.9224&#xA;G1 F3000 E74.4224&#xA;G1 F300 Z7.08&#xA;;MESH:NONMESH&#xA;G0 F9000 X190.179 Y161.901 Z7.08&#xA;;TIME_ELAPSED:2354.891407&#xA;;LAYER:171&#xA;;MESH:string_test_fast_pyramid.stl&#xA;G0 X190.179 Y161.901 Z7.12&#xA;;TYPE:WALL-INNER&#xA;G1 F300 Z6.92&#xA;G1 F3000 E77.9224&#xA;G1 F600 X190.179 Y161.555 E77.92356&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Snippit of not retracting for z-hop:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;G1 F1200 X204.473 Y161.666 E78.0239&#xA;G1 F300 Z7.12&#xA;;MESH:NONMESH&#xA;G0 F9000 X190.182 Y161.898 Z7.12&#xA;;TIME_ELAPSED:2359.620803&#xA;;LAYER:172&#xA;;MESH:string_test_fast_pyramid.stl&#xA;G0 X190.182 Y161.898 Z7.16&#xA;;TYPE:WALL-INNER&#xA;G1 F300 Z6.96&#xA;G1 F600 X190.182 Y161.558 E78.02503&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Test on the left is done with 'Equalize filament rate' enabled, on the right side is  done with the option disabled.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hjoHu.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hjoHu.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any advice you can give as to what settings I am missing or misconfigured would be much appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21966" LastEditorUserId="21966" LastEditDate="2020-07-25T03:15:32.537" LastActivityDate="2020-07-25T05:34:41.170" Title="Ultimaker Cura is not always retracting in exported G-Code" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|slicing|retraction|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14112" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10238" CreationDate="2020-07-21T17:25:22.143" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not a native Linux application so I dunno if it matches your use case, but the driver and control software &amp;quot;Laser engraving machine K4 V2.2&amp;quot; that was bundled with the printer on a USB stick works fine with Wine!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm running Debian Bullseye/Sid and I'm using version 5.0 of Wine. I started with installing the driver simply by running &lt;code&gt;wine driver.EXE&lt;/code&gt; in the correct folder on the USB stick. The control software, however, seems to need .NET to run which it says by prompting you to install &amp;quot;wine-mono&amp;quot;. After a bit of googling I found out that installing .NET using the command &lt;code&gt;winetricks dotnet45&lt;/code&gt; worked fine. After this you can simply run the software using &lt;code&gt;wine Laser\ Framework4.exe&lt;/code&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm sure this is also doable using the GUI, but this is the way I did it. Also, maybe it works just as well with actually installing &amp;quot;wine-mono&amp;quot; instead of dotnet45 from winetricks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: I can't find a license for the software on the USB stick, and I also can't find it online so I refrain from uploading it. OTOH, the USB stick is chock-full of logos of different brands so I doubt the authors are even aware of international copyright laws. Maybe I could send the software to you personally but I wouldn't host it since it could even contain malware&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21978" LastActivityDate="2020-07-21T17:25:22.143" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14113" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14114" CreationDate="2020-07-21T17:32:00.113" Score="0" ViewCount="59" Body="&lt;p&gt;I hope this kind of questions are tolerated here. Otherwise, please tell me in the comment and I will delete the question - no needs to downvote.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a new job I need to create a lot of objects like this one:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DuGPX.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DuGPX.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To have an idea of the dimensions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;height: 60 mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;cylinder diameter: 12 mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;inner hole: 3 mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;lateral slots width (2 at 90 degress): 3 mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm able to make such an item with either a 3D printer or even a standard 4-axis CNC.&#xA;But because I need to make 100+ of these items I wonder if there are something similar out there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I have no idea of how it might be called. I tried with &amp;quot;spacer with slots&amp;quot; without any useful results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21979" LastActivityDate="2020-07-21T18:46:44.313" Title="Ready to use objects instead of 3D-printing them" Tags="|3d-design|cnc|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2020-07-21T21:49:48.717" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14114" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14113" CreationDate="2020-07-21T18:46:44.313" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If your printer is reliable enough I would suggest printing multiple parts in one go. Since the cylinders are only 12 mm in diameter you can easily fit over a hundred of them on a standard 20 x 20 cm built plate with a couple of millimeters spacing in between.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10659" LastActivityDate="2020-07-21T18:46:44.313" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14115" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-07-21T18:56:56.087" Score="1" ViewCount="586" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had filament on my 3D45 coming out of threads on the nozzle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To fix this I removed the nozzle to find the PTFE Liner in really bad shape. It looked crushed and deformed. Now the tough part, how do I replace the PTFE Liner. You can't seem to buy the liner and getting a replacement nozzle assembly from Dremel takes weeks. Can anybody help me figure this out please, I really would like to get back to printing!!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21981" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-09-20T07:37:05.777" LastActivityDate="2020-09-20T19:45:05.537" Title="Replacement teflon (PTFE) liner For Dremel 3D45" Tags="|bowden|replacement-parts|ptfe-tube|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14116" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14115" CreationDate="2020-07-21T21:46:55.110" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The initial problem you had with filament coming out of the threads at the nozzle is caused by improper seating of the heat break to the nozzle. In a &amp;quot;from the ground up&amp;quot; installation, you'd have an empty heat block, containing your heater core and your thermistor. Threaded into the &amp;quot;bottom&amp;quot; of the block is the nozzle, just a turn shy of being flush with the heat block. The heat break is the thin threaded segment extending from the heavily finned heat sink.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The heat sink/heat break combination is threaded into the heat block until it contacts the nozzle, at which time, the nozzle is snugged into place securely. This keeps continuous the filament path from the heat break to the nozzle. Somewhere in time, a gap opened between the two.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you have assembled everything (including the PTFE liner), you'll want to heat the extruder assembly to about 250 °C and re-snug the nozzle to the heat block and heat break. Hold securely the heater block, as you do not want to apply force that will snap or otherwise damage the fragile heat break. Use a wrench that fits the heater block without contacting the wiring. Use a wrench that will keep your fingers safe, as the heat block will be hot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Stepping back in time a bit, when you remove the assembly, you should be able to determine the necessary length for the PTFE tube. I checked the manual for your printer and it is lacking in detail for this information. The diameters you've specified are standard and you should be able to locate a suitable substitute from many online sources. Amazon, Matterhackers, eBay, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Examine the heat break tubing. The diameter should not be so small as to allow you to push the PTFE tubing in from the heater block side, unless you have an unusually manufactured product. Dremel may have decided to create a new bit of engineering, but I'd expect not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll purchase more PTFE than required and examination of the upper portion of the heat sink should give you a clue how much to use. When the cover of the extruder assembly is removed, is there a guide for the filament to make it easier to push through the PTFE tubing? If so, the length of the PTFE is from the bottom of the guide to the bottom of the bore of the heat sink/heat break assembly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Photos of the upper entry to the heat sink/heat break, with the cover removed, would be useful, but you may have sufficient resources in hand to resolve your problem, once you replace the nozzle and purchase PTFE tubing of the correct size.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-08-21T05:14:25.797" LastActivityDate="2020-08-21T05:14:25.797" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14117" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-07-21T21:53:24.333" Score="2" ViewCount="2756" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd appreciate any advice on this problem. I have and Ender 3 Pro with a glass bed. I have been using Marlin 2 with mesh bed levelling and it has been working really well. I have now installed a BLTouch version 3.1. I have used the TH3D Marlin V2.0.5.3 set to probe a 3 by 3 grid (same size I used with mesh bed levelling. My glass bed has a dip in the centre. When using mesh bed levelling this was found to be around 0.05 mm lower than the rest of the bed. However, the mesh bed levelling worked well and I got great first layers. Now with the BLTouch, I've set up my probe Z-offset, done with the bed and nozzle at full printing temperature. I've got a test print of 9 small squares and have sliced it in Cura at 0.12 mm. It's just one layer. No matter how much I fiddle/tune the Z-probe offset, I am getting poor results. The square at the front left of the bed is a complete load of spaghetti. The others are better but not perfect. It's as if the bed levelling process is not working properly. But it all looks like it's doing the right thing. Is there any way I can verify the measurements the probe has made? Is there anything else I should check? I'm really at a loss. I've also manually levelled the bed to make sure the four corners are level with each other. I'm completely stumped!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21985" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-07-22T06:30:11.093" LastActivityDate="2020-07-24T13:21:43.437" Title="BLTouch doing poor job of levelling" Tags="|creality-ender-3|bltouch|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14118" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-07-21T23:48:50.900" Score="3" ViewCount="4743" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I am almost finished upgrading my CR10s with Hemera and BLTouch hardware, however I can't get past this one problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the picture, you can see that the probe is to the left of the nozzle, and when homed it is not above the bed. The gantry will fall and eventually have the nozzle crash into the bed because the BLTouch will never hit the bed. I tried solving this by setting &lt;code&gt;NOZZLE_TO_PROBE_OFFSET { -40, 0, 0 }&lt;/code&gt; (I'm using Marlin 2.0, and those were the offsets I measured (except for the z)). This changed nothing, and the same thing happened again. I could not find a setting that tells Marlin where the nozzle is after it has been homed. Any ideas?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fp0qO.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fp0qO.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21986" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-07-22T19:01:13.170" LastActivityDate="2021-08-16T20:06:30.643" Title="Why is BLTouch Still Probing Off the Bed Even When `NOZZLE_TO_PROBE_OFFSET` is Set?" Tags="|marlin|creality-cr-10|bltouch|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14119" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14124" CreationDate="2020-07-22T00:34:25.727" Score="1" ViewCount="1401" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've had this MP Select Mini III for years and years. Lately it's consistently jamming/clogging somewhere between the hot end and the PTFE tubing - but not right away, often when it starts getting to the infill layers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I don't catch it in time, the filament twists and twists until even the Bowden tube is clogged (and then it's a whole lot of trouble to clean out).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My temperature has been wobbly of late, so I bumped the temps higher than usual (200-210 °C for PLA) thinking perhaps it was dipping low for a spell and allowing it to cool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this the end of the road for this cheap little guy that has been a solid workhorse or are there some known fixes that I should consider?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13816" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-07-22T07:53:54.600" LastActivityDate="2020-07-22T17:19:04.903" Title="Filament consistently jamming / clogging in Bowden tube on MP mini 3" Tags="|extrusion|bowden|monoprice-select-mini|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14120" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-07-22T03:14:23.883" Score="1" ViewCount="104" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'll try to give as much detail as I know here but let me know if there is anything missing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a Prusa i3 MK3 that I got in about 2018 and it was working perfectly fine. Print quality was pretty good. Then sometime in the last 6 months I updated slicer and the printer would give me an error about the file being for a different printer type. I ignored it because I was pretty sure I had it set right and the prints were still coming out fine. Then recently I updated to the latest firmware version (3.9.0) from the website for MK3. When I did the update it told me this was firmware for a different printer type but I ignored it because I had checked again that it was the right version. Now when I print I do not get a message about the printer being the wrong type but the prints fail every single time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are some examples:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/k86NZ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/k86NZ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YEGJq.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YEGJq.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have tried messing with the settings a bit but they used to work perfect on default. What should I do here? Revert to an older firmware version?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13243" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-07-22T07:10:47.940" LastActivityDate="2020-07-22T07:10:47.940" Title="Print quality ruined after firmware update i3 mk3" Tags="|prusa-i3|prusaslicer|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14121" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14100" CreationDate="2020-07-22T07:27:00.750" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Issue is solved!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Root cause was a broken thermistor circuit at board and broken thermistor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I disconnected all wires and power, measured board and thermistors resistance: E0 = ~120 Ω, (E1 and Bed) = ~700 Ω. I swapped pins for &lt;code&gt;TEMP_0_PIN&lt;/code&gt; and &lt;code&gt;TEMP_1_PIN&lt;/code&gt; within Marlin for Tevo firmware at &lt;code&gt;pins_RAMPS.h&lt;/code&gt; as described in answer on question &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10208/change-hotend-thermistor-input-in-marlin&quot;&gt;Change hotend thermistor input in Marlin&lt;/a&gt;, changed thermistor and everything prints fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21932" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-07-22T07:46:22.113" LastActivityDate="2020-07-22T07:46:22.113" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14124" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14119" CreationDate="2020-07-22T17:19:04.903" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have it for years, have you ever replaced the Bowden tubes and hotend liner? This printer might be in need of some dire maintenance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also check if the Bowden tube is securely fixed, if infill starts, it might be retraction that is giving problems by lifting the tube alongside the rectracted filament.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2020-07-22T17:19:04.903" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14126" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14118" CreationDate="2020-07-22T19:01:35.067" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Did you load the values from firmware after the re-flash? Use &lt;code&gt;M502&lt;/code&gt; to load the values you changed, otherwise it will keep using those from memory. Also set &lt;code&gt;#define Z_SAFE_HOMING&lt;/code&gt;, then it will home in the middle of the bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, with a new carriage for the Hemera, your nozzle is not/might not be in exactly the same position as before as I learned from other adopters, you then should also need to redefine the offsets, see &lt;a href=&quot;/q/6375&quot;&gt;How to center my prints on the build platform? (Re-calibrate homing offset)&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2020-07-22T19:01:35.067" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14127" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-07-22T21:43:26.637" Score="0" ViewCount="440" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been adding a Hemera and BLTouch to my CR10s, and finally finished everything, flashed the firmware, and everything worked fine. However, I forgot about one thing (&lt;code&gt;Probe_to_Nozzle_Offset&lt;/code&gt;), so I went back in made the changes, compiled it and that completed successfully. I uploaded it via Cura, and it gave me the &lt;code&gt;upload finished&lt;/code&gt; message, so I closed Cura and went back to working. However, when I turned the printer off and back on, it wouldn't boot up. It would only show the Marlin screen, see e.g. &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YXUHx.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this video&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It stays like that for as long as I have looked at it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now I am also having troubles uploading new firmware. Cura will not detect the printer is connected, Arduino will not either, and Platformio gives me some &lt;code&gt;timeout&lt;/code&gt; error, which I looked up and it means that the uploader couldn't connect to the bootloader. I don't know any other way to upload the new firmware, and for now my project is stuck because of it. I have 2 ideas of what happened:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The upload was not completed and was therefore corrupted when I closed Cura.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The build was broken, but because it compiled fine I don't know how this could be.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know what could have happened, or how to fix it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;VS code/platform.io recognized the usb port, and tried sending over the &lt;code&gt;firmware.hex&lt;/code&gt;file, but all I got was this warning over and over:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;avrdude: stk500v2_ReceiveMessage(): timeout&#xA;avrdude: stk500v2_ReceiveMessage(): timeout&#xA;avrdude: stk500v2_ReceiveMessage(): timeout&#xA;avrdude: stk500v2_ReceiveMessage(): timeout&#xA;avrdude: stk500v2_ReceiveMessage(): timeout&#xA;avrdude: stk500v2_ReceiveMessage(): timeout&#xA;avrdude: stk500v2_ReceiveMessage(): timeout&#xA;avrdude: stk500v2_getsync(): timeout communicating with programmer&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And then later:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;avrdude: stk500v2_command(): failed miserably to execute command 0x10&#xA;avrdude: initialization failed, rc=-1&#xA;         Double check connections and try again, or use -F to override&#xA;         this check.&#xA;&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Everything was plugged in, and the lights on the board were being powered by the computer, so there was still a connection, but for some reason this warning happened, and then went right back to the &lt;code&gt;avrdude: stk500v2_ReceiveMessage(): timeout&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, I looked in the device manager when my USB to ISP was connected, and it wouldn't show, which explains why Arduino IDE won't upload the bootloader, but in that case is my only option to buy an Ardunio?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21986" LastEditorUserId="21986" LastEditDate="2020-07-23T16:51:14.110" LastActivityDate="2021-01-30T13:15:05.303" Title="Marlin won't start up on modified CR10s" Tags="|marlin|creality-cr-10|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14129" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14059" CreationDate="2020-07-23T02:12:22.163" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just copy the firmware to a blank microsd card.&#xA;Turn off the printer and turn it on.&#xA;Board will flash it automatically and wait the screen to up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Make sure the name of the firmware file always unique or different from the last one, otherwise you will get the blank screen.&#xA;If you do, just re-flash by using a rename (different) file of firmware.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22003" LastActivityDate="2020-07-23T02:12:22.163" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14130" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14132" CreationDate="2020-07-23T12:23:04.443" Score="12" ViewCount="2500" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm printing 6 separate parts in one go, after 4 hours of printing one part failed, but the other 5 are printing nicely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a way to prevent the print from printing the failed part and continue printing the other 5 parts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm using Cura and an Ender 3 printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13717" LastEditorUserId="14562" LastEditDate="2020-07-24T12:27:09.897" LastActivityDate="2023-12-13T14:59:12.903" Title="Is there a way to save a multi part print if one fails?" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|creality-ender-3|pla|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14131" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14130" CreationDate="2020-07-23T13:37:09.070" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Considering your setup, you don't have reported using an external print server like OctoPrint, so the other answers hinting to OctoPrint are a solution if you are upgrading to a print server.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm using Cura and an Ender 3 printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your prints are coming from an SD card from a pre-sliced file (note that the OtoPrint solutions require you to pre-process the file after slicing before printing, also if you have a single mesh file with multiple parts you need to pre-process the file prior to printing).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, &lt;strong&gt;no&lt;/strong&gt;, once you sliced the 6 parts on the build plate in your slicer, the G-code is fixed and the printer will print as the sliced instructions from the SD-card. During printing it cannot skip the code of a part that failed along the way; there is no way to interfere with the printing other than stopping the print during printing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For that reason, many people don't pack the build plate too full, the more parts, the higher the chance it fails. You could print the part one after each other. Packing the plate with multiple parts is usually not faster than printing one at a time (if it fails you have nothing, otherwise a single failed print).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on the size of the parts you can also tell the printer to print each part on the plate one after another in a single job; note that the printhead dimensions limit this. If one fails you stop the job, but the already printed parts are saved. You can then commence a new print of cut the G-code and reprint the shortened file.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2023-12-13T14:59:12.903" LastActivityDate="2023-12-13T14:59:12.903" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14132" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14130" CreationDate="2020-07-23T14:50:30.933" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you use the &lt;a href=&quot;https://octoprint.org/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;OctoPrint&lt;/a&gt; print manager, you can exclude regions to be printed using the &lt;a href=&quot;https://plugins.octoprint.org/plugins/excluderegion/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Exclude Region&lt;/a&gt; plugin. The description states that it can be used to rescue partially-failed prints:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The intent of this plugin is to provide a means to salvage multi-part prints where one (or more) of the parts has broken loose from the build plate or has otherwise become a worthless piece of failure. Instead of cancelling an entire job when only a portion is messed up, use this plugin to instruct OctoPrint to ignore any gcode commands executed within the area around the failure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other print managers may provide similar facilities.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure if it will enable you to rescue your current print job.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3953" LastEditorUserId="3953" LastEditDate="2020-07-24T07:10:45.850" LastActivityDate="2020-07-24T07:10:45.850" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14133" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13931" CreationDate="2020-07-23T15:59:17.843" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;PETG works as support material for PLA, see video&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/3lZlyzYJd-I?start=12&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In theory, PLA printed on top of PETG will be fine because PETG softens and gets sticky at higher temperatures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Printing PETG support on top of PLA may cause remelting of PLA, but if PETG is kept quite cold (220 °C) the issue will likely be minor. As shown in the video, it works.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PLA/PETG may still be better than using PLA/PLA because of this difference in extrusion temperatures that, for example in bridges where PLA is printed on top of PETG support, should result in very easily removable supports.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The type of supports used should be tested: tree supports could minimize the contact surface between the two and thus minimize marring by the hotter PETG being deposited onto the PLA at the expense of more PETG and normal supports could be used on a limited surface, so they can be removed easily. If the two materials really don't adhere much to each other, you may even be able to fake dissolvable supports, which increase the contact surface but provide a far better finish for bridges and bottom surfaces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using a single nozzle may require experimentation. In my experience, I print PLA at 230 °C so it wouldn't be an issue, and 220 °C would also work, but if PLA is printed cold, below 215 °C, you may need to heat/cool the nozzle. In any case, switching filament (especially PETG -&amp;gt; PLA) requires quite some filament to be discarded, so there is time for the heating. It is however to be kept in mind that cleaning of the nozzle between PLA and PETG (or in fact after any material swap) is difficult: some residue can remain in small gaps or low flow areas of the hotend and will be blended into the stream for quite some time after the swap, resulting in hybrid materials of unknown properties.&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As I said, experimentation is needed for this kind of task: my experience, with a 2012-era hot end, may not even be representative of the behaviour of modern hot ends.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; - this effect is easily noticeable even with similar materials if switching from dark to light color filament, especially if not doing a cold pull to remove most of the material from the melt zone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2338" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2020-08-15T11:15:29.253" LastActivityDate="2020-08-15T11:15:29.253" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14135" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14117" CreationDate="2020-07-24T13:21:43.437" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Found the cause of the gaps. it was one or both of the following:: he x-carraige belt was rather loose; I think I'd overtightened the x-carriage assembly with the print head on it and the motion had a couple of places where it was a tad tight. Adjusted both these things and all the problems went away. What's especially interesting is that I'm now getting better quality prints than I've ever had. It looks like it is worth checking the tightness of everything on a new Ender 3 Pro to ensure it is all as it should be!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21985" LastActivityDate="2020-07-24T13:21:43.437" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14136" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14130" CreationDate="2020-07-24T17:17:26.953" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Mick is right that you can do this with OctoPrint and maybe other print managers, and 0scar is right that there's no way to get the printer to stop printing the no-longer-wanted part when printing without a print manager (since it doesn't know about objects). However there is a way to recover and keep the non-failed parts if you're willing to waste material printing the rest of the failed part. It involved having a recovery tool built in advance, though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically, you need an adjustable-height platform you can temporarily glue to the bed where the failed part would have been, small enough not to interfere with other parts but large enough to cover at least most of the area the failed part should have been in. The surface of the platform needs to be something your material will adhere to, ideally the same material you're printing with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With the print paused and the head parked to the side, glue the platform to the bed and adjust its height using the depth-measurement function of a caliper to match the current layer height. Alternatively, you could use a straight-edge resting on two adjacent printed parts to match the layer height, but that risks dislodging them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After it's attached and adjusted properly, resume printing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have not tested this with tall parts, but I have successfully made such &amp;quot;platforms&amp;quot; with layers of blue tape for small parts, and see no reason the concept should not scale to arbitrary height as long as you can get sufficient adhesion and match the layer height sufficiently well. Designing a sufficiently adjustable and reusable one (with adjustment mechanism that doesn't interfere above the desired height) would be an interesting project.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2020-07-24T17:17:26.953" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14137" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14111" CreationDate="2020-07-25T05:34:41.170" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's likely that you're hitting Cura's Maximum Retraction Count (&lt;code&gt;retraction_count_max&lt;/code&gt;) within the Minimum Extrusion Distance Window (&lt;code&gt;retraction_extrusion_window&lt;/code&gt;). This is a misfeature supposedly designed to avoid grinding/flattening the filament, but of course acting on it will ruin your print in exactly the same way you're seeing. I think setting the window to 0 or the maximum count to some ridiculously high number like 1000000 will fix the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that it's exacerbated by the thin nozzle making the number of retractions needed take place over a much smaller extruder-axis move distance than what you'd have with a normal 0.4 mm nozzle. This is probably why nobody has noticed and complained about the badness of Cura's defaults here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2020-07-25T05:34:41.170" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14138" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-07-25T15:02:09.540" Score="2" ViewCount="8064" Body="&lt;p&gt;Got my Ender 3 v2 and stack with the bed leveling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Used default settings, Creality slicer 4.2, test PLA from the kit and print model &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3013319&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3013319&lt;/a&gt; (4 squares in each corner and 1 in the middle), nozzle 200 °C, bed 60 °C.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After some adjustments, I have good solid pieces on the bed corners  but the center one has small gaps. Is it possible to fix this problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Corner pice:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BGeA2.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BGeA2.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Center piece:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gfSas.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gfSas.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22027" LastEditorUserId="14562" LastEditDate="2020-07-25T21:54:53.473" LastActivityDate="2021-01-02T17:52:55.977" Title="How can I make bed leveling improvements in the middle of my Ender 3 V2 bed?" Tags="|creality-ender-3|pla|bed-leveling|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14139" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14138" CreationDate="2020-07-25T19:05:29.143" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The gaps are, because the nozzle is to far from the bed at this point. It may sound like a big deal, but actually this is not leveling alone, but it looks like the bed is not a perfect plane/perfectly flat. This is normal, my ikea mirror and my stock bed show the same thing. Now here's one solution:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Print calibration stickers, like you already did on various places around the bed to get a feel, where it is too low. Let it cool and put painters tape (the very very thin tape, that should not burn) on areas, where the bed is too low. Print more calibration rectangles and check if you have enough. Repeat until you cannot see a difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It took me about 2h to level everything absolutely perfectly. This was 2 years ago and I didn't have to touch the tape below my bed ever since. It just works.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternative solutions involve mesh bed leveling and buying a new bed surface or even the surface below the bed. However, I found that to neither of them work reliably, whereas the simple tuning does what it's supposed to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22030" LastActivityDate="2020-07-25T19:05:29.143" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14140" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-07-26T08:21:24.513" Score="0" ViewCount="492" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Prusa i3 3D printer and am using Slic3r for slicing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've noticed that my extruder is underextruding. I've correctly set the nozzle diameter and the filament diameter and I've already tried to increment the extrusion multiplier (which is currently set to 1.1). As Slic3r suggests this is a maximum value, I'm wondering if there is something else wrong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anybody a have suggestions on which settings I can look at?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mYACg.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mYACg.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22034" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-09-03T21:18:10.653" LastActivityDate="2020-09-03T21:19:19.613" Title="Under extrusion" Tags="|prusa-i3|slic3r|underextrusion|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14141" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14143" CreationDate="2020-07-26T08:51:43.810" Score="1" ViewCount="1711" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Cura, if you plug your favourite 3D Printer you will most likely get an option to Print via USB. If you have never heard of what I'm talking about, please see this video: &lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/4UKH9jCkJXA?start=0&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wanted to know some information on how this works:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is the communication through UART or through Serial?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How can I establish a connection to the 3D Printer?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is there a list of commands I am able to send?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What is the default baudrate for 3D printers?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How is the G-Code of the print sent to the 3D Printer?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21851" LastEditorUserId="12377" LastEditDate="2020-07-27T13:04:50.240" LastActivityDate="2020-07-27T13:04:50.240" Title="How does 3D printing over USB work?" Tags="|g-code|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14143" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14141" CreationDate="2020-07-26T18:38:21.867" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;This is just a stub answer. I will try to expand on it later.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The 8-bit microcontrollers used on many 3D printers do not have a USB interface, and so a USB to serial interface chip is used to allow a computer to communicate with the serial port (UART) on the microcontroller. In order for the computer to communicate with the printer, a device driver is needed to allow the operating system to communicate with the &lt;strong&gt;interface chip&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The appropriate device drivers should be supplied with your printer, and you should install these drivers before you try to do anything else. The drivers will make the printer look as if it has a serial interface, and the highest speed that most 8-bit microcontrollers can manage is 112800bps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the software that you are using has a terminal interface, you can send any G-code commands to the printer. For a list of G-code commands, see &lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/wiki/G-code&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;here&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt;. Note that this list includes commands for CNC machines as well as 3D printers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For normal printing, G-code commands are sent to the printer using a print manager, such as Repetier-Host. Some slicers may have built-in print managers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3953" LastActivityDate="2020-07-26T18:38:21.867" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14144" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4459" CreationDate="2020-07-27T08:09:17.630" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you hear it from a floor to the other the only thing to change is the base of the printer. Nothing else matters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;CNC Kitchen performed measurements especially to avoid noise being transferred to other rooms, the result is that placing the printer not on elastic feet, but on a single slab of concrete which is placed on top of foam is the best solution and reduces the noise significantly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/y08v6PY_7ak?start=0&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2338" LastActivityDate="2020-07-27T08:09:17.630" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14145" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-07-28T04:56:29.060" Score="2" ViewCount="2762" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am having a tough time to understand scaling out and in STD files loaded into the &lt;strong&gt;Creality Slicer 1.2.3&lt;/strong&gt;.&#xA;For instance an STL like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt; facet normal -nan -nan -nan&#xA;  outer loop&#xA;  vertex -0.0515186 0.0260341 0.0015&#xA;  vertex -0.0514094 0.0260341 0.0015&#xA;  vertex -0.0516411 0.0260341 0.00172995&#xA;  endloop&#xA; endfacet&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This STL is super small, considering that the default unit for STL is a millimetre, but when I open it in the Creality Slicer it shows me that the model is much larger.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I assume there is some scaling mechanism in the slicer (also for large STL). Do you know how it works? It seems to me that there are some rules. For example, if the max length of the facet is &amp;lt; 0.05, the slicer changes the unit to meters(?).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22052" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2020-07-29T04:41:43.217" LastActivityDate="2020-07-29T04:41:43.217" Title="Scaling mechanism in Creality Slicer 1.2.3 for super small/large STL" Tags="|creality-ender-3|slicing|creality-cr-10|stl|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14146" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13961" CreationDate="2020-07-28T12:34:54.157" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, if the stepper motor drivers overheat, they shut down or skip steps, that is very possibly related to the failing stepper driver cooling fans.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2020-07-28T12:34:54.157" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14147" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-07-28T20:09:21.557" Score="0" ViewCount="521" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can anyone confirm that on the SKR 1.4 Turbo you don’t need any of the jumper wires to enable SPI mode? Like you would do on the 1.3 variant?&#xA;As I have searched and cannot seem to find any reference to using linking wires.&#xA;Also, do you have to manually adjust the output of each driver by the potentiometer? As adjusting the in the screen doesn’t seem to do anything?&#xA;Any help in this regard would be most appreciated.&#xA;Paul&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19993" LastActivityDate="2020-07-28T20:09:21.557" Title="BTT SKR 1.4 Turbo SPI setup" Tags="|creality-ender-5|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14148" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-07-28T20:51:52.180" Score="2" ViewCount="114" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking for basic models of crystal chemical structures. The most basic example would be a cube, it gets harder though as I next need polyhedrons with one of three angles &amp;lt; 90°, then two, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a database of these out there somewhere? Or is the fastest way to make them myself?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22062" LastEditorUserId="14562" LastEditDate="2020-07-29T22:12:04.047" LastActivityDate="2020-07-29T22:12:04.047" Title="Looking for CAD files of basic crystal structures" Tags="|3d-models|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14149" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-07-28T21:57:25.810" Score="0" ViewCount="687" Body="&lt;p&gt;I sometimes have a problem with rough surfaces. This problem can show up any time on vertical surfaces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the linked picture of the problem, the area further from the camera has ridges that are sharp and clean. It is usually  in one area on the outer surface of curving shapes. Could anyone tell me what the name of this effect is and how to avoid it? I'm using an Ender 3 and Cura.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZZj2E.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZZj2E.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20418" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-08-29T19:05:49.383" LastActivityDate="2020-08-29T19:05:49.383" Title="Rough vertical ridges" Tags="|print-quality|ultimaker-cura|creality-ender-3|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14150" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14148" CreationDate="2020-07-28T22:13:17.273" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;You may find that &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/benjamin-edward-morgan/openscad-polyhedra&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;OpenSCAD regular polyhedron library&lt;/a&gt; may serve your requirements.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/seBkc.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/seBkc.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;regular polyhedra library image&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the linked site:&#xA;All polyhedra are centered at the origin and have an edge length of 1.&#xA;From the linked site:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Included polyhedra:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;tetrahedron&#xA;octahedron&#xA;hexahedron&#xA;icosahedron&#xA;dodecahedron&#xA;cubeoctahedron&#xA;truncated_tetrahedron&#xA;snub_cube&#xA;rhombicuboctahedron&#xA;truncated_hexahedron&#xA;truncated_octahedron&#xA;icosidodecahedron&#xA;snub_dodecahedron&#xA;rhombicosidodecahedron&#xA;truncated_cuboctahedron&#xA;truncated_icosahedron&#xA;truncated_dodecahedron&#xA;truncated_icosidodecahedron&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;OpenSCAD is a reasonably easy &amp;quot;description coding&amp;quot; program at the base level. I suspect that for something such as this, it might not qualify for the easy reference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My search also linked up a few Thingiverse entries, but they weren't as sophisticated as the above and may be a subset of the library link.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastActivityDate="2020-07-28T22:13:17.273" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14151" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14140" CreationDate="2020-07-28T23:57:06.510" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It looks like the nozzle is too far from the bed, try leveling the bed again - that should solve the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22064" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2020-07-29T04:42:27.540" LastActivityDate="2020-07-29T04:42:27.540" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14152" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12099" CreationDate="2020-07-29T13:04:36.457" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your calculations about the theoretical extruder resolution are spot on. I did a similar calculation to evaluate which extruder to use with different hot ends, I paste the results. The dark cells are the input cells, the rest is calculated. You can see that for some lines I entered directly the mm/microstep value, since I wanted not a theoretical but practical result for my printer (3 mm filament) or for known extruders (BMG).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3mQeA.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3mQeA.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Concerning the question, the resolution of the extruder matters, but it's a bit complicated to estimate exactly how much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In general, this are the factors I can think about.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A poor resolution may not impact straight lines much, since the rotation of the extruder is continuous and the extruder is unlikely to snap exactly to the desired microstep position as soon as you ask for it: it's likely a bit behind all the time, that's how torque is obtained (more or less).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The issue may become smaller with drivers which interpolate microsteps up to 256x.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, whenever there is a change of flow rate, poor resolution implies that you cannot control the exact location/moment where/when the flow changes. This matters mostly at the end and at the beginning or retractions/re-retractions. Maybe you get more ooze?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, the extruder resolution is not, in practice, as good as you calculated. In fact, as we know, microsteps reduce the incremental torque to very low values. The extruder is a motor which requires quite a lot of torque, since pushing the filament is quite hard, and it is unlikely that you can achieve all the time the 16x microstep accuracy you assumed. For example, due to friction in Bowden, hot end, ... the filament (= the motor shaft) may at a certain point stay &amp;quot;back&amp;quot; more than average. This would cause an increase of effective torque, pushing the filament a bit faster, which would it bring to in sync or so with the desired position, but at that point it would slow down, and so on. Depending on the average speed, this oscillation may be dampened (and then no rippling is visible) or may oscillate constantly, and you see ripples also along straight lines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is why I placed the usteps column in my calculations: it is meant to calculate a more realistic resolution assuming that no accurate microstepping is achieved. I assumed higher achievable microsteps the lower the load on the motor is (this means gears, or thinner filament).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having a high resolution to begin with clearly helps to reduce this issue. You can try to increase the current to the max your drivers and motor and cooling allow, and see if the ripples change. I think it will be reduced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may also try to build the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4223085&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Orbiter extruder&lt;/a&gt; (linked also in the table) and see how it goes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2338" LastActivityDate="2020-07-29T13:04:36.457" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14153" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14140" CreationDate="2020-07-29T20:53:08.827" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It may also be, that your hotend temperature is too low and the extruder 'spins through', so that too little filament is extruded. In that case you would hear some clicking noise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22077" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-09-03T21:19:19.613" LastActivityDate="2020-09-03T21:19:19.613" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14154" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14031" CreationDate="2020-07-30T02:30:38.390" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the trouble was just a short between 5 V and ground, the board probably would restart whenever you pushed the button, with all kind of power sources.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The fact that the Arduino restarts only when powered from RAMPS makes me wonder another cause for this problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's well known that most of Arduino clones don't have a good voltage regulator onboard. This causes trouble when you power Arduino from RAMPS, because RAMPS sends 12 V to Arduino through Arduino's Vin pin, and this 12 V goes to Arduino's voltage regulator, which should reduce it to the 5 V used by ATMega MCU.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The question is, probably the Arduino's onboard voltage is running almost at its capacity and, when you press the button, the extra processing load or the redrawing of the display makes Arduino reset.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The solution would be disconnect diode D1 in RAMPS, and power Arduino from USB, or feeding 5V directly to Arduino's 5 V pin (not Vin).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A third option (more complex) would be feed about 7 V to Arduino barrel power-connector. This lower voltage would reduce the task of Arduino's onboard regulator. My 3D-printer uses an Arduino clone, but, as I discovered about this problem before building it, I've never powered it from RAMPS. I dessoldered D1 on RAMPS and, since the first day, Arduino was powered from USB, or from a DC-DC buck converter that reduces 12 V to 7.2 V.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21622" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-08-29T04:44:47.240" LastActivityDate="2020-08-29T04:44:47.240" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14155" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14149" CreationDate="2020-07-30T15:57:58.587" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Looks like under extrusion, here's a extreme example.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QsYZt.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QsYZt.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would check your feed rate by marking out 100 mm on the filament then manually extruding 100 mm. You can use this to verify if you are under extruding due to your feeder. If you find that the printer only fed say 90 mm when you asked for 100 mm, you will need to change your feed rate in Cura to 110 %.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you confirm that the printer is pulling 100 mm through when you manually ask for that much, then it could be a combination of speed, cooling &amp;amp; jitter. I would slow down the print speed and see if it improves the print quality. I've experienced issues where the nozzle is moving fast around small bends and wobbling slightly, the filament is struggling to land on the previous layer and the resulting effect looked a bit like your photo.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can't think of anything else that might be causing this issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22085" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-07-30T17:28:50.730" LastActivityDate="2020-07-30T17:28:50.730" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14156" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-07-31T08:46:04.350" Score="3" ViewCount="250" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found this in Handbook of Compliant Mechanisms (2013), page 162, or at the start of &amp;quot;Chapter 11, Elements of Mechanisms,&amp;quot; subsection 11.1.2 Revolute&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't understand how it's supposed to go from 1 to 2 when b rotates around c.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The description reads:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This element is a rotational flexural pivot constructed by three&#xA;curved beams to achieve a large range of motion. Theoretically, this&#xA;element will rotate without axial-drift motion, because of the&#xA;symmetric arrangement about the axis.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(1) Rigid body a is fixed. Rigid body b rotates about c-axis.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;(2) Deformed configuration&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;(3) Photo of the device.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's unclear which part of the beam is attached to what. I can understand how one curved beam could switch its curvature (in general, like they do in  bi-stable latches), but I don't see how they could both at the end of of the rotation end up curved in a way that's opposite to how they started.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How could c2/c3 go from the configuration in 1 to the configuration in 2 ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or could they be two different iterations of the same idea ? I can see how (1) or (2) would resist rotation of c around b, and snap it back to its original position.  The text claims (2) is the deformed configuration though. I can also see how (1) with just c1, c3, c5 would deform to (1) with c0, c2, c4 if (b) was turning anti clockwise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, what would be an ideal material to print this kind of compliant mechanism ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/f9Vka.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/f9Vka.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18571" LastEditorUserId="14562" LastEditDate="2020-07-31T15:43:27.683" LastActivityDate="2022-02-05T22:07:00.663" Title="How does this multiple-curve-beam flexural pivot work?" Tags="|3d-design|material|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14157" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14156" CreationDate="2020-08-01T05:15:09.240" Score="-3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would try and print it in PLA because it is quite flexible.&#xA;ABS is harder in my experience and breaks more easily.&#xA;If you are able to print PET, you should also try that for the same reasons.&#xA;There might also be better materials I've never heard of, also please leave a comment if I'm wrong with anything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22077" LastActivityDate="2020-08-01T05:15:09.240" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14158" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-08-01T07:03:22.037" Score="1" ViewCount="229" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some background to the problem:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Several months ago I started getting poor print quality in one section of my prints (back left corner of bed) - I diagnosed that the plastic X axis carriage and the right Y axis carriage had distorted from heat over a period of 4 years running my Wanhao D4S, and the linear bearings no longer aligned properly.  I found a long gouge in the right Y axis rod and have replaced this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have since replaced all plastic carriages with aluminium to eliminate any potential distortion in the future.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally, the 5 mm rods running in the X direction in both front and back of the printer also had slight bends in them, and I have replaced both these with 8 mm rods to enhance rigidity and prevent further bending problems.  With the bent rods there was a very noticeable vibration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The issue I am now facing is the front right corner of test cubes I have been printing (see attached photo) are not sharp - they are okay at about the top and bottom quarter, but in the middle it is as if the X and Y axes are not travelling far enough to the front right corner, and the corner is cut off diagonally and tapers inwards slightly like an hourglass.  But as mentioned really only in this one corner.  The issue is most apparent where indicated by the arrows - although the others also exhibit to a small degree the same issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/i0QkK.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Photo showing 6 cubes with the defective X-Y edge&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/i0QkK.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Photo showing 6 cubes with the defective X-Y edge&quot; title=&quot;Photo showing 6 cubes with the defective X-Y edge&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have aligned all belts and pulleys, and made sure the belts are tight enough to &amp;quot;twang&amp;quot; but this does not seem to help.  All pulleys have also been re-tightened.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The printer also does seem to still have a vibration when moving along the Y axis, and is much louder than the X axis movement (which is barely noticeable).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the belts are disconnected both X and Y axes move by hand smoothly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has anyone seen this issue before, or can offer a solution?  My next step was to check stepper driver current, although I don't believe this to be the problem as the issue is very consistent in its placement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think also overall, print quality in general is not as good as it once was before the initial troubles with the carriages started.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To help install the rear 8 mm rod, I unscrewed the two Z axis rods, but to the best of my knowledge they are in their original position.  They also move smoothly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23098" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2020-08-01T16:43:49.363" LastActivityDate="2020-08-17T20:17:41.197" Title="Strange behaviour x and y axis - corner of print" Tags="|print-quality|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14159" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14160" CreationDate="2020-07-31T22:08:51.527" Score="1" ViewCount="482" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am new to 3D printing and have a &lt;em&gt;Monoprice MP Select Mini 3D Printer V2&lt;/em&gt;. I wanted to be able to 3D-print &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4203631&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this VR Adapter&lt;/a&gt; from Thingiverse. Before downloading the Cura software, I tried opening the model in Print 3D, and as you can see in this picture, it appears that the model is just under 100 mm, which is well under the 120 mm limit of the MP Select Mini’s 120 mm×120 mm build plate:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GBAmX.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GBAmX.png&quot; alt=&quot;Print3D Scale&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, when I downloaded Cura and input the specs for the printer (120 mm for &lt;em&gt;x, y,&lt;/em&gt; and &lt;em&gt;z&lt;/em&gt; dimensions), the model appears to be much larger than the 120×120×120 area. The program tells me that the model is 132.5 mm × 180.6 mm × 36.6 mm:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RLfJV.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RLfJV.png&quot; alt=&quot;Cura Scale&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I need the model to fit the controller for the Oculus Quest, so I can’t just scale it down. Can anyone tell me why I am seeing this discrepancy and how I can still print this model?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23102" OwnerDisplayName="dguis" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2020-08-15T20:31:52.323" LastActivityDate="2020-08-15T20:31:52.323" Title="Unable to Determine Proper Print Scale of STL model" Tags="|3d-models|slicing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14160" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14159" CreationDate="2020-08-01T11:29:20.913" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The STL format does not define unit information. So there is no way of knowing, from a STL file alone, what size it should be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However there are only a handful of units people design with. So the unit is most likely one of inches, cm or mm. So if you inverse convert between those combinations you'll likely find the real size.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your image is somewhat inconclusive. But it seems to indicate your object is in fact larger than your bed. As it it is 18-19 pips of height and i would interpret each as 10 mm from the image. Which would indicate your model is correct.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Split and glue? Print corner to corner you should have 207 mm length that way (but not necessarily width).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23100" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2020-08-01T16:45:41.843" LastActivityDate="2020-08-01T16:45:41.843" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14161" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14165" CreationDate="2020-08-01T14:55:59.670" Score="0" ViewCount="85" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had noisy DRV8825 drivers for my extruder E0 and X, Y, Z axes. I upgraded all to LV8729 drivers but they were still noisy, so I bought two TMC2100 drivers for the X and Y axes and two LV8729 for the Z axis and extruder E0. I updated Marlin (reversing endstops logic and choosing driver types) and I removed the jumpers under the driver pins. But my X and Y axis don't move; eventually the printer halts.&#xA;What could be wrong?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RAqe1.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;TMC2100 driver&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RAqe1.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;TMC2100 driver&quot; title=&quot;TMC2100 driver&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13700" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2020-08-01T20:43:14.447" LastActivityDate="2020-08-02T14:46:07.117" Title="X and Y axes don't move after upgrading to TMC2100 drivers" Tags="|stepper-driver|y-axis|x-axis|tmc2100|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14162" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14166" CreationDate="2020-08-02T01:11:22.560" Score="2" ViewCount="823" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm new to this game, and recently upgraded the hotend on my Ender 3 Pro to a &lt;em&gt;clone&lt;/em&gt; of an E3D V6, as I'm keen to do nylon prints at some point. I noticed however that this one I got has a teflon liner which seems to negate the advantage of a metal hotend entirely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm wondering what temperature it's safe to run this hot end up to?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6Uth3.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Teflon insert#2&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6Uth3.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Teflon insert#1&quot; title=&quot;Teflon insert#2&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QazJ2.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Teflon insert#1&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QazJ2.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Teflon insert#2&quot; title=&quot;Teflon insert#1&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="112" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2020-08-02T12:22:26.200" LastActivityDate="2020-08-03T08:45:54.093" Title="Does a teflon insert in an E3D V6 clone limit it's useable temperature so it can't print nylon?" Tags="|creality-ender-3|hotend|e3d-v6|nylon|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14163" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14162" CreationDate="2020-08-02T09:42:08.487" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It depends how &lt;em&gt;deep&lt;/em&gt; it goes. If the teflon goes into the hotend then yes, it will limit the temperature end.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But: the teflon may just be something that ends &lt;em&gt;somewhere&lt;/em&gt; in the cold side and sticks out so there is something to put into the extruder or higher up into the connector.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I cam currently setting up a Slice Mosquito for a Bondtech DDX. The Mosquito is full metal, but there is a (actually printed nylon) adapter for the DDS. In this adapter you put a teflon/capricorn tube, that ALSO sticks out only around 5 mm. Here is the point though: it never goes into the even cold side and is only there so the connection to the extruder on top has a width limitation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, it really depends how &lt;em&gt;long&lt;/em&gt; this tube is (and no-one here will know because a v6 &lt;em&gt;clone&lt;/em&gt; may be different internally from the original). I would suggest pulling it out (it should move out easily) and then seeing how deep it goes. As long as it stays on the cold side before the heatbreak, it never gets in touch with anything that is hot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21959" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2020-08-02T12:24:40.377" LastActivityDate="2020-08-02T12:24:40.377" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14164" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11549" CreationDate="2020-08-02T10:01:51.537" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do the pieces created with the common 3D printing techniques melt at 100 °C?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem here is the &amp;quot;common 3d printing techniques&amp;quot;. If you mean END USER DESKTOP - yes. PLA, ABS etc. have all glass temperatures (where they get soft) around this number. Melting is not something you care about - because it will deform WAY earlier. Melting is when it gets liquid, you care when it looses stability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you talk NOT about desktop, then no - common 3d printing techniques THEN include laser syntering nylon as well as FDM printing materials like PEEK which have melting temperatures WAY higher. KEEP gets soft around 143 and melts around 343 degree, though some have sueful operating temperaratures up to 250 celsius. &amp;quot;Common&amp;quot; is a very vague definition in the higher end area because there are quite a number of main market different techniques that you basically never see in the consumer market due to price.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem is that those are expensive, so desktop users do not use them. They also require high temperature chambers AND special 3d printers. Nothing you can not do - Slice Engineering sells a hotend that can go up to 450 degree or so - but they are NOT common on the desktop side as they are (also) quite expensive. Heck, the are just now putting that into the Marlin firmware (you also need to measure this, and the thermistor table for their sensor was just added as #67 to marlin). I am reworking a printer with this technique (just for fun) and - the extruder / hotend combo costs around the same as the whole printer originally did.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If yes, what kind of other 3D printing technique can I use?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically any that works with the temperature band, which does include FDM printing. That said:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I think you really are wrong with the temperatures. Close to the engine may be higher than 100 degree, me thinks. If I am wrong (and that really depends on how close to the engine block it is), this may be ABS. ABS or PLA variants are available with glass transition temperatures above 130 degree, so this COULD work, depending on the exact material you use.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I would basically print it in anything common (pla) to see that it fits (NOT use it), then have a 3d printing service make it out of some engineering material. They will also be able to choose the best material for you. This is for higher temperature and possibly not FRM process. They will know what to use.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another problem is - we do not kknow anything about this part. is it under pressure? I ask for a number of reasons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;3d printing may be less stable in certain directions than in others. Generally LESS stable than parts that are injection molded, unless you use some special techniques not common in consumer laser printers (i.e. plasma fusing the layers, which Essentium does, or laser syntering where there are not real layers to see). You MAY be able to work around it, by making the part larger / heavier (the walls), but this is something to consider. You can get more information on Essentium's work i.e. here: &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.com/news/essentiums-fusebox-plasma-3d-printing/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://3dprinting.com/news/essentiums-fusebox-plasma-3d-printing/&lt;/a&gt; - they bascially can reheat the plastic to fuse way better. They also print with speeds up to 1m/second, extremely impressive to see.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Standard 3d printing may be leaking, particularly under pressure. This is a problem as above (the layers not being perfectly bonded). Again, more layering may solve this, as would a larger nozzle.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21959" LastActivityDate="2020-08-02T10:01:51.537" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14165" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14161" CreationDate="2020-08-02T14:46:07.117" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Steps/unit also must be modified. In my case these values made the printer run silent and smooth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT   { 100, 200, 6160, 884 }&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I set Max feed rate and Max acceleration as below:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#define DEFAULT_MAX_FEEDRATE          { 300, 300, 5, 25 }&#xA;#define DEFAULT_MAX_ACCELERATION      { 300, 300, 100, 10000 }&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13700" LastActivityDate="2020-08-02T14:46:07.117" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14166" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14162" CreationDate="2020-08-02T15:10:16.823" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are many types of &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10998/e3d-v6-original-vs-clone/11012#11012&quot;&gt;heatbreak clones&lt;/a&gt;. In cour case, your clone effectively turns your hotend into an e3d Lite6, not an all-metal e3d v6. To function properly, the PTFE liner needs to butt against the nozzle or you will quickly develop leak and clog issues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This means, handle it like a Lite6, which has a max of 245 °C listed, but under usual operation should not exceed 230 °C.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2020-08-03T07:34:03.920" LastActivityDate="2020-08-03T07:34:03.920" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14167" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-08-02T15:20:15.467" Score="2" ViewCount="19892" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ender3 v2, SIENOC PETG which advises temperature of 230-250 °C on the box. I'm printing on top of cleaned blue tape, using a temperature of 230 °C for the nozzle and 80 °C for the bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've had all sorts of trouble getting first layer to stick but finally managed it. However the thin end of this hook has now warped and the other end is too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QznJK.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Photo showing warped hook (left hand side)&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QznJK.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Photo showing warped hook (left hand side)&quot; title=&quot;Photo showing warped hook (left hand side)&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looking at the image above, you can see it's much thinner at that end. Should I try a lower nozzle temperature? Or bed? Or both?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The fans are at 50 % (set in Cura), should I have left them on 100 %?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have to mention that the tape has been cleaned with isopropyl alcohol. I can print PLA no problem direct to the bed but am having so much trouble with PETG - rather than warping this could actually be adhesion problems.&#xA;I've tried a higher initial layer (0.3 mm vs 0.2 mm), 0.1 mm Z offset, gapped to 1 sheet of paper as per PLA, then 2 sheets - I've done that 50 mm in on each corner and then checked it in the middle of the bed too. Initial layer is at 10 mm/s and then to 40 mm/s&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you can see in the picture the brim looks rather flattened, but if I give more gap (e.g. 3 sheets) it doesn't even stick at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have managed to print a benchy after maybe 6 attempts, but this was luck and had really poor adhesion, a gentle tap with my finger dislodged it. The actual print was fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tempted to try another PETG but wanted to make sure I'm not missing anything obvious - at the moment I can't even print the brim again because it won't stick.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm really confused because a lot of I read suggests PETG sticks really well but I've having the exact opposite experience.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23108" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-08-03T06:24:51.063" LastActivityDate="2021-06-15T09:21:03.333" Title="PETG warping - adhesion or temperature too high?" Tags="|adhesion|petg|warping|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14168" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-08-03T00:01:29.970" Score="2" ViewCount="2361" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am converting an old Makerbot Replicator 2 to Marlin Firmware and everything works. The printer heats up, auto bed levels, and starts the print. However, after a couple minutes (usually after the 1&lt;sup&gt;st&lt;/sup&gt; or 2&lt;sup&gt;nd&lt;/sup&gt; layer), the printer crashes and stops. It does not continue printing and I have to restart it again. It crashed for every single print, I have not had any successful prints yet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a video showing the issue:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/MzcrX3wcA-Q?start=0&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The camera was started right when the print started. After about 1.5 minutes, the printer crashes, and the LCD screen freezes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are photos of a couple of prints that crashed:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VHzNi.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Photos of sample prints&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VHzNi.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Photos of sample prints&quot; title=&quot;Photos of sample prints&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have all of my code here: &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/RosalieWessels&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;RosalieWessels&lt;/a&gt; / &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/RosalieWessels/Marlin_MakerbotReplicator2&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Marlin_MakerbotReplicator2&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My models are sliced with Cura and printed in PLA.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried hotend temperatures of 200, 210, and 220 degrees C. My print speed is around 50 or 60 mm/s.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a sample sliced file that was used:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://filebin.net/df33a3jjwgemz0m8&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://filebin.net/df33a3jjwgemz0m8&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16308" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2023-03-16T10:36:13.737" LastActivityDate="2023-03-16T20:36:55.197" Title="Printer crashes at the beginning of a print" Tags="|marlin|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14169" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14167" CreationDate="2020-08-03T00:54:46.100" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;PETG is a pain to print with, but adhesion/warping usually isn't the issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To begin with, fan should be completely off for PETG unless you hit problems that necessitate a fan, and then only minimal. Certainly not 50% or 100%. Fan will seriously impact adhesion between layers and give you brittle prints. It also might be responsible for the warping you're seeing, but the biggest issue here is that you have an adhesion problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure if blue tape is generally recommended for PETG. The Buildtak clone that came with my (original, not v2) Ender 3 adheres extremely well (if anything, too well) with PETG so I've never worried about adhesion with it. But if it's not adhering to your blue tape or v2 coated-glass bed (or if you're concerned about ruining that bed from PETG adhering too well) you need to find something it will adhere to. I'd suggest getting a Buildtak-clone Ender 3 v1 bed surface (you can find these cheap) and clipping it to your bed (since you presumably don't want to glue it over the v2's much nicer bed).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I guess I should mention that distance to build surface could also be the issue. Make sure the bed is leveled correctly. I don't like the paper method because it's too imprecise; the best way I've found is to move the Z axis to 0.1 mm and adjust until 0.1 mm feeler gauges fit under it with some friction and 0.15 mm ones don't fit at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2020-08-03T00:54:46.100" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14170" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14162" CreationDate="2020-08-03T08:45:54.093" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Long story short, you can print Nylon with a Teflon tube. I've done it. P.S. The nylon absorbs water like nothing you've ever seen. Even after the part is printed, it absorbs water, and expands!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12857" LastActivityDate="2020-08-03T08:45:54.093" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14171" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-08-03T10:21:58.633" Score="2" ViewCount="8614" Body="&lt;p&gt;The cube is a 2 cm x 2 cm with infill at 30 % and layer height 0.2 mm, more details can be seen below.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm printing with PETG using an Ender 3 printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There seems to be a gap between the perimeter walls, I have already referred to other forums and specifically: &amp;quot; &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10276/how-to-fix-wall-separation-in-3d-prints-gaps-in-between-wall-perimeters&quot;&gt;How to fix wall separation in 3D prints (gaps in between wall perimeters)?&lt;/a&gt; &amp;quot;, but I still can't find a solution for it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most would suggest to tighten up the pulleys, I've tried that, but that didn't work. Others also suggested tweaking to a higher temperature, again I've tried from a range of 230-250 °C, but this also failed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Infill and initial/top layers seems to be strong and all lines are bonded except for the perimeter walls.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More details regarding the problem:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WjFY6m.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WjFY6m.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1wJjGm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1wJjGm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Z2tJGm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Z2tJGm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are my print settings:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IOZBWm.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IOZBWm.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SNKEbm.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SNKEbm.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/srVksm.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/srVksm.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1Q6zNm.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1Q6zNm.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/i9nPsm.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/i9nPsm.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GgFkvm.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GgFkvm.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3e3zVm.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3e3zVm.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GNGD5m.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GNGD5m.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20341" LastEditorUserId="14562" LastEditDate="2020-08-03T21:26:15.963" LastActivityDate="2023-02-25T20:42:58.750" Title="Gaps between perimeter walls; potential under extrusion?" Tags="|print-quality|ultimaker-cura|extrusion|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14172" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14171" CreationDate="2020-08-03T12:50:12.167" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;PETG filament is not entirely rigid and compresses slightly in the Ender 3's extruder gear and Bowden extruder setup. Tightening it will only make this effect greater. Being compressed at the point where mm of extruder advance is applied means less than the desired advance of at-nominal-diameter filament will take place. I find I need a flow of 104% to compensate for this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When adjusting flow in Cura, make sure you get the main flow setting not the first-layer one (which is an additional factor on top of the main one and can be left at 100%), &lt;em&gt;and&lt;/em&gt; that all the derived flow settings for each type of extrustion (walls, top/bottom, infill, etc.) all come out matching the value you set. When I first tried fixing this with flow, they didn't propagate right and I ended up testing changes that weren't actually doing anything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With that said, you may have something else going on too. The underextrusion looks pretty severe, &lt;em&gt;including&lt;/em&gt; in the top layers which you said looked okay. You should not see deep grooves between the lines like that. I suspect they're only bonded to the layer below, not to their neighbors. This could be a result of tightening the extruder pulley, or some other problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2020-08-03T17:13:09.517" LastActivityDate="2020-08-03T17:13:09.517" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14173" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14171" CreationDate="2020-08-03T13:42:47.103" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I agree with @R.. GitHub STOP HELPING ICE, looks like under extrusion you could try a flow rate test print like this &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3397997&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;link&lt;/a&gt; to try and dial in the value.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But probably worth just trying a flow of 105% and see if it solves the problem. Another thing worth verifying is that your printer is feeding accurately. You can mark out 100mm from the feed hole, then manually command the printer to extrude 100mm, then measure the distance from the 100mm mark. This will tell you if you have a feed problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22085" LastActivityDate="2020-08-03T13:42:47.103" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14174" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14168" CreationDate="2020-08-03T13:51:47.613" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Few things to try,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Check G-Code&lt;/strong&gt; - Verify that the slicer is not the problem, slice using some other program / make a new default profile and re-slice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;3D File&lt;/strong&gt; - Also In parallel with the above point, I would get a standard test cube STL to start with. This will be a simple quick print to get a solid reference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Voltages&lt;/strong&gt; - Get a Multi-meter on the Regulated Voltage rails, 5V Rail, 12V rail / 24V rail. See if at the moment of crash a voltage rail collapse, the most likely one would be the microcontroller rail, but you may be able to see the problem somewhere else.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Current&lt;/strong&gt; - If possible, measure the current draw of the printer either from the mains or after the AC/DC regulator. Its possible something is going horribly wrong and current limiting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Serial Port&lt;/strong&gt; - Possibly connect the printer to a PC via its serial port and open a com port. See if the printer spits out an error code at the time of crash?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;End Stops&lt;/strong&gt; - Double check that none of the End Stops are accidently being triggered (Although this should not crash the system, it might be part of the problem)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Verify Sensor Readings&lt;/strong&gt; - Check all end stops, check the bed temperature readings, check the nozzle temperature reading. Maybe a sensor has failed and is causing the controller to crash out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22085" LastActivityDate="2020-08-03T13:51:47.613" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14175" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14168" CreationDate="2020-08-03T17:05:02.800" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I see a couple likely culprits for a hardcrash like this&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;problems with the power supply. If the power supply does not provide enough voltage an/or current to the board, this can lead to a lockup of the board.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;temperature issues of the board. If the board overheats, it could fail to execute properly, leading to abort. make sure that the board is not overheating.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;faulty firmware. recompile your firmware and reflash it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;faulty board.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastActivityDate="2020-08-03T17:05:02.800" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14177" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11549" CreationDate="2020-08-03T17:56:13.237" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Although metal casting has been briefly mentioned, another approach to your problem would be to create a silicone mold from your print and cast the part using epoxy or polyurethane, both of which have the desired strength and heat properties.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is an example of this technique&#xA;&lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/gFJqBJleiVY?start=0&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23127" LastActivityDate="2020-08-03T17:56:13.237" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14181" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-08-04T14:06:28.320" Score="1" ViewCount="6641" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am building an enclosure for an Ender 3 Pro printer, and am planning on the power supply and LCD unit being outside the enclosure.  How important is it to move the printer controller (where the SD card is inserted) outside the enclosure?&#xA;Would leaving it in place affect its longevity?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Answers to the first round of comments/questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I expect to be primarily printing in the 200C-270C range.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I'm not worried about losing heat from opening the doors - I'll be putting the SD card in prior to initiating printing.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I'm thinking the stepper motors are somewhat of a moot point, there's no way I could move them outside of the enclosure.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;My printer is all stock.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21944" LastEditorUserId="21944" LastEditDate="2020-08-04T23:47:24.490" LastActivityDate="2020-10-30T19:20:32.760" Title="How important is it to move the printer's controller board outside of an enclosure?" Tags="|creality-ender-3|electronics|enclosure|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14182" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14185" CreationDate="2020-08-04T17:00:34.413" Score="0" ViewCount="331" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm pretty new to 3D printing. I am using Repetier Host 2.6 with Slic3r (printer Geeetech i3 Pro B).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I slice detailed models I get issues like this as the slice result:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Bo8kq.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Badly sliced model&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Bo8kq.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Badly sliced model&quot; title=&quot;Badly sliced model&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the model in the example, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2427014&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Army Men flames of war single version&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can slice simple objects fine, walls, cubes 2D logos etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why is this doing this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I used Cura the slice is fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22087" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2020-08-05T07:09:30.263" LastActivityDate="2020-08-05T09:55:24.800" Title="Sliced object losing all detail in Cura" Tags="|slic3r|repetier|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14183" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14140" CreationDate="2020-08-04T17:16:55.810" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Prusa i3 pro b, and was having a similar issues. Turns out the spring for the plastic extruder feeder can be too slack. I printed &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1936289&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;these&lt;/a&gt; at 2 mm and put it under the spring and it solved my issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22087" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-08-04T17:27:45.033" LastActivityDate="2020-08-04T17:27:45.033" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14184" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14188" CreationDate="2020-08-05T04:06:47.540" Score="2" ViewCount="6015" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an Ender 3 3d printer. It has a bed that wobbles because it came with only 1 bed support beam.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KJKL6.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Ender 3 bed plate support&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KJKL6.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Ender 3 bed plate support&quot; title=&quot;Ender 3 bed plate support&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Every model I print, I must print vertically, because the closer it gets to the edges of the build plate, the less adhesion it has.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there anything I can to to fix this problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23125" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2020-08-18T06:35:34.267" LastActivityDate="2020-08-18T06:35:34.267" Title="Bed wobbling on Ender 3" Tags="|creality-ender-3|bed-leveling|bed|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14185" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14182" CreationDate="2020-08-05T09:55:24.800" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is not &amp;quot;loosing details&amp;quot;. What is is is this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can not print on air. So, certain things (like the backpack) require SUPPORTS that are removed after printing. Another example is the gun.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your support setting force the slicer to set up quite a lot of supports and that is what you see - start removing them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There ALSO is a problem with possibly you using too large a nozzle. Depending on that one you may loose details, but there is not even the basic form visible on your picuture because all I see are supports.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://all3dp.com/1/3d-printing-support-structures/#:%7E:text=3D%20printing%20support%20structures%20are,added%20cost%20to%20the%20model&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://all3dp.com/1/3d-printing-support-structures/#:~:text=3D%20printing%20support%20structures%20are,added%20cost%20to%20the%20model&lt;/a&gt;. exokauns supports.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21959" LastActivityDate="2020-08-05T09:55:24.800" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14186" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14196" CreationDate="2020-08-05T10:35:49.190" Score="1" ViewCount="2669" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am going to design and build a 3D printer. I want the highest quality and accuracy so nothing except that is important for me. Which cartesian design has the highest quality and accuracy? CoreXY, Prusa, or Gantry (Ultimaker)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, is it better to have a nozzle that moves in just direction &amp;quot;X&amp;quot;, directions &amp;quot;X and Y&amp;quot;, or &amp;quot;X, Y and Z&amp;quot;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23146" LastEditorUserId="23146" LastEditDate="2020-08-06T06:09:21.340" LastActivityDate="2020-08-06T06:09:21.340" Title="Which kinematic system has the highest quality?" Tags="|printer-building|corexy|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14187" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14186" CreationDate="2020-08-05T11:00:08.357" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The tradeoffs in these systems are all about quality achievable at particular speed and acceleration profiles. If you really don't care about speed at all and want maximum accuracy, you probably want some type of Cartesian setup with no belts, only rigid lead screws which you can take to as fine a pitch as you like, and you can make all the parts as rigid as you like because mass doesn't matter (since acceleration doesn't).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note however that extrusion accuracy is the limiting factor to quality and dimensional accuracy in even a half-decent printer. Rather than trying to design something with &amp;quot;perfect&amp;quot; spatial kinematics for quality from the outset, I think you should look at existing printers, figure out what about them isn't meeting your quality needs, and start from there to improve. You should also figure out what your speed constraints will be, even if they're only minimal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-08-05T22:08:58.867" LastActivityDate="2020-08-05T22:08:58.867" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14188" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14184" CreationDate="2020-08-05T11:09:19.017" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the V roller wheels aren't tight on the Y axis beam, it means the eccentric nuts are not adjusted correctly. Two of the rollers are mounted centered on the holes in the carriage frame, but the other two are on eccentric nuts which displace them from center slightly depending on the orientation the nut is turned to, to allow tightening and loosening of the grip on the beam. Since the Y axis ones are hard to see under the bed, look at the X or Z ones to get an idea what to expect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that the bolt through the whole roller assembly can loosen when adjusting the eccentric nut. You can probably avoid this by figuring out the right direction to turn it and only going that direction (continuing around just under 360 degrees if you go too far). If you do loosen the bolt then the eccentric nut will move on its own under vibration, so you need to re-tighten it. For the Y axis this might require taking off the bed or taking the carriage off the beam (by removing the belt and tensioner).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2020-08-05T11:09:19.017" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14189" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-08-05T12:17:46.280" Score="1" ViewCount="779" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know that CoreXY kinematics is very complex and hard to calculate for the firmware making it better to use a 32-bit board. For some reason, I can't use any 32-bit board. What problems will occur if I use an 8-bit board like Arduino Mega with a CoreXY 3D printer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Everything that I wrote in this question about hard kinematic calculations was referenced from this video, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ySqj3gPqfrs&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;HyperCube 3D Printer 8-Bit Speed Wall&lt;/a&gt;, by Tech2c (the designer and builder of hypercube). After watching the video I doubted using an 8-bit board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23146" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2020-08-06T14:41:52.287" LastActivityDate="2020-08-07T05:38:05.627" Title="CoreXY with 8 bit board problems" Tags="|firmware|ramps-1.4|arduino-mega-2650|corexy|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14190" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14189" CreationDate="2020-08-05T13:04:13.600" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can use an 8-bit controller board for a CoreXY kinematics 3D printer. The calculations are not so complicated opposed to those for a Delta.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;My Hypercube Evolution uses a RUMBA controller board that hasn't failed me past years.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-08-07T05:38:05.627" LastActivityDate="2020-08-07T05:38:05.627" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14191" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-08-05T14:15:36.813" Score="0" ViewCount="1069" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use the Prusa Slicer on a Tronxy XY-2 pro which I believe uses RepRap firmware. I believe it uses RepRap firmware because I had to input it into the Prusa Slicer initialization questions, but I'm not certain that it is correct.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried three ways, none of them work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;code&gt;M117 L0 E0&lt;/code&gt; from &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wOpZTGfFv1I&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Embedding a Nut into your 3D Print&lt;/a&gt; and nothing happens, it chains the G1 movement steps flawlessly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;code&gt;M600&lt;/code&gt; nothing happens either. From &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oF1SdIR-Kow&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Embedded Magnets Thanks to Flipping Normals!&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Using this code&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt; G1 X10.000 Y200.000 E0&#xA; M1&#xA; M105&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and the nozzle does a micro stab into the plastic, get stuck, struggles for a few seconds, then continue the printing.  Also from &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oF1SdIR-Kow&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Embedded Magnets Thanks to Flipping Normals!&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They produce no feedback at all on the printer GUI asking me somehow to resume the print. It keeps displaying real time temperature and estimated time remaining as if there was no pause in the process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is the G-code of the file I trying to print &lt;a href=&quot;https://gofile.io/d/OiM8dz&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;test_inserting_nuts_on_the_fly.gcode&lt;/a&gt;. You guys can visualize it at least with the slicer Simplify3D but it's not useful to this problem I guess. The pause has to happen before drawing the 50&lt;sup&gt;th&lt;/sup&gt; layer, which corresponds to Z height of 10.15 mm on my piece.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What G-code instructions should I insert? Does this type of method work with your machines? It's a tiny test piece about 15x15x15 mm&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23148" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2020-08-05T16:25:39.053" LastActivityDate="2020-08-05T16:25:39.053" Title="Can't manage to force my print to standby while I insert a nut - Prusa Slicer and Tronxy XY2 pro" Tags="|prusa-i3|g-code|slicing|slic3r|reprap|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14192" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14189" CreationDate="2020-08-05T15:26:27.470" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;CoreXY should not require calculations which can slow down a board. Also, a normal Marlin becomes CPU limited often before 100 mm/s on 8 bit boards due to arc interpolation and other processing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, if you use Klipper which runs on a Raspberry Pi, 8 bit boards are rarely a limiting factor. I could print at 100 mm/s on mine with only 30% CPU utilisation and without slowdowns of any kind.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/tu-mPFxc2lg?start=0&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/okj_d2HZD4M?start=0&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2338" LastEditorUserId="2338" LastEditDate="2020-08-05T15:31:06.953" LastActivityDate="2020-08-05T15:31:06.953" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14193" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14018" CreationDate="2020-08-05T16:25:27.483" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;At the limit, precision is limited by the achievable positioning accuracy of the motors and the mechanical reflection of that precision into a linear position.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With a belt drive, the mechanical precision for a stepper-motor system is the circumference of the drive pulley divided by the number of distinct step positions.  A 1.5 degree stepper with 10::1 microstepping (assuming everything works perfectly) with a 1 cm pulley gives a maximum precision of 0.013 mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The same stepper motor with a 5 turns/in ball screw has a maximum precision of 0.0021 mm.  The precision is better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other advantages may include:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;A stiffer drive system with a higher resonant frequency&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Ability to transmit more force to the mechanism&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;More precise slow-motion controls&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are several disadvantages.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The rotating mass is increased.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Rotating ball screws have a maximum rotation rate depending on how the ends are supported.  This limits the maximum movement speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The most economical ball screw size (at McMaster-Carr) is the 5/8&amp;quot;-5 ball screw with appropriate ball nuts.  This is fairly high mass.  It also stiffer than thinner ball screws, and will have a higher maximum spin rate for a given support system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;For a particular linear speed, the motors must spin faster.  Unless a more complicated, variable micro-stepping drive method is used, the I/O load on the drive firmware will be higher -- about 5 times higher in this example.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other advantages of ball screws are less relevant in a 3D printer application.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Ball screws can generate and support higher forces&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Ball screws are not subject to the belt stretching and skipping a tooth&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Ball screws work well with human-controlled knobs and hand-wheels&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this is a larger bed size then a typical printer, you will probably be printing larger objects.  To keep the printing time reasonable, you may want to print faster, which means higher acceleration and higher extrusion rates.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For your particular application, you need to evaluate the tradeoffs.  Either could be your answer.  If the analysis is too complex, you could default to belt drive.  You could put the money you would have spent on ball screws, ball nuts, and extra bearings into wider belts, higher torque motors with smaller step angles, and better (higher voltage, faster switching) motor drives.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2082" LastActivityDate="2020-08-05T16:25:27.483" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14194" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14181" CreationDate="2020-08-05T16:53:08.513" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It depends on what kinds of prints you make, and especially what kind of materials you want to use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Certain materials (ABS especially, but also PETG to some degree) will print &lt;em&gt;much better&lt;/em&gt; if the entire build area, which usually includes the printer chassis and controls, is enclosed to protect from drafts and allow a much higher ambient temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you print often with these materials, and the control board is included in that enclosed area, you &lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;will&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt; significantly reduce the life of the electronic components, &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Capacitor_plague&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;especially the capacitors on the board&lt;/a&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other hand, if you print mainly with PLA, which is not as susceptible to issues requiring an enclosure, and prints better with an ambient temperature closer to room temperature, you can put the electronic controls wherever you want.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sub&gt;1 See especially this excerpt from the section on &amp;quot;Premature Failure&amp;quot;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Electrolytic capacitors that operate at a lower temperature can have a considerably longer lifespan.&#xA;&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12562" LastEditorUserId="12562" LastEditDate="2020-08-06T13:47:47.323" LastActivityDate="2020-08-06T13:47:47.323" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14195" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-08-05T18:36:17.163" Score="5" ViewCount="372" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have no prior experience with stereolithography 3D printers.&#xA;For a research application I am considering the SLA approach but I have a more basic question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would like to use SLA in order to print porous structures from ice cores. Using X ray tomography I have raw data of very high resolution 3D images of the cores. The idea is to use this information in order to print representations of these cores to perform a diffusion study.&#xA;Some of these cores come from depths below 50 m thus the snow has compacted in such way that volumes of air are occluded.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is if it is possible for SLA printers to print in such enclosed volumes. Imagine for example a solid cube with a gas bubble in the middle. Is that possible for an SLA printer and if yes will the bubble contain air or the liquid resin of the printer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23151" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2020-08-06T14:38:41.880" LastActivityDate="2023-08-22T00:07:45.923" Title="Enclosed volumes with stereolithography 3D printers" Tags="|sla|resin|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14196" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14186" CreationDate="2020-08-05T20:15:25.523" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just to clarify: Examples of kinematic systems would be Cartesian (which includes CoreXY), Delta, Scara, and Six-Axis. The quality of the system has less to do with the system and more to do with the implementation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Furthermore, there are 2 main types of desktop/benchtop 3d printers that are commonly available: Fused Deposition Modelling (or fused filament fabrication depending on who you ask) and stereolithography; of which the latter, stereolithography, has better accuracy and quality.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In terms of FDM however, it can be easily argued that CoreXY cartesian printers offer the best quality and accuracy (both of which are subjective btw) than either delta or gantry designs (e.g. gantry would be the Prusa i3). The reason is that in order to get the CoreXY to work at all, the overall engineering and frame rigidity must be at a certain minimum. Once this minimum has been achieved, the quality of the prints typically meets or exceeds the quality/accuracy of even a well-tuned gantry printer; and you are going to see it in the cost of a CoreXY printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12857" LastEditorUserId="12857" LastEditDate="2020-08-05T20:24:14.790" LastActivityDate="2020-08-05T20:24:14.790" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14197" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7610" CreationDate="2020-08-06T05:54:04.163" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Check the wires going into the board for the heater core. That was the problem with mine. They didn't remove enough of the insulation for the wires to get current.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23158" LastActivityDate="2020-08-06T05:54:04.163" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14198" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3788" CreationDate="2020-08-06T11:49:51.267" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Break even points have always been dependent on the part.&#xA;If the goal is to make a rod or filament-like piece of your extrusion nozzle diameter, your extruder may be pretty competitive. Additive manufacture has come a long way already so the break even points may have shifted.  Interestingly a great use for additive is to produce tooling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could for example use the 3D printed part (with non-stick coating) to make a 600 deg F silicone mold from high temp RTV.  Presuming you have the heating equipment, that mold can then be used to produce tens of the part at slightly lower quality.  As silicone is flexible, it isnt good for high speed/pressure of injection molding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are willing to accept lower quality (3d printing with filament is pretty low so that's likely a yes) and your injection molder is willing to go for DMLS molds with minor smoothing/drilling post-operations, your tooling costs may be significantly lower than your original estimate.  Chances are this isn't happening unless the injection molder is also an additive enthusiast, and often will have to be one and the same as the person who designed at least some of the 3d printed part.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23162" LastActivityDate="2020-08-06T11:49:51.267" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14199" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14207" CreationDate="2020-08-06T13:21:59.963" Score="4" ViewCount="1404" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am printing small mechanical pieces in ABS:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;100 ºC bed temperature&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;70 ºC Room temperature&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;250 ºC nozzle temperature&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;0.4 mm nozzle, at 0.15 mm per layer.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;100.8 % scale to compensate ABS dimensional innacuracy.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first layer is printed correctly, but later, corners warp and first 10 mm get deformed (See images).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5QsSPm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5QsSPm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Nsummm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Nsummm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do I solve this? Unfortunately, I cannot increase room temperature over 70 ºC&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a picture while printing, we can see that the edges get warped even far over the first layer. (Sorry, the picture quality is not so good):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dWjCG.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dWjCG.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12615" LastEditorUserId="12615" LastEditDate="2020-08-09T07:31:54.267" LastActivityDate="2020-09-13T09:55:51.880" Title="How to solve ABS deformation at the bottom?" Tags="|abs|warping|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14200" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14203" CreationDate="2020-08-06T15:06:06.747" Score="1" ViewCount="96" Body="&lt;p&gt;I need to make chocolate busts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it better to make silicon reverse of the bust and cast the bust or directly print it using chocolate printer (I prefer cost and process speed over quality)? I don't have chocolate printer so if this method will be better I will need to use some 3D printing service.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I need to make quite a large amount of the busts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21113" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2020-08-07T09:04:30.883" LastActivityDate="2020-08-07T16:19:12.927" Title="Chocolate printing vs casting?" Tags="|chocolate|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14201" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14200" CreationDate="2020-08-06T16:59:45.060" Score="0" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I prefer ... process speed&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Printing is unlikely to win that battle. You might print a plastic mold once you can use for casts, but if you do make sure you use a liner of some kind. 3d-printed plastics are not considered food-safe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12562" LastActivityDate="2020-08-06T16:59:45.060" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14202" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14200" CreationDate="2020-08-06T17:10:59.423" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my experience, direct printing of chocolate is tedious because:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It has to be around 88 C to melt; and&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It doesn't solidify very quickly at normal room temperature.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unless you can print in a chilled environment (freezer is better than refrigerator), you will likely wind up printing a chocolate puddle. Even then, you have to heat not only the reservoir but also the entire nozzle (or it may solidify in the nozzle).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, some chocolates have issues if they freeze or become overheated, so it's a very tight tolerance with the temperatures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4922" LastEditorUserId="4922" LastEditDate="2020-08-07T16:19:12.927" LastActivityDate="2020-08-07T16:19:12.927" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14203" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14200" CreationDate="2020-08-06T19:10:29.980" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;For your application, you should 3d print a positive model, then make a silicone mould negative of that model. Then use the silicone mould to make the final chocolate. Clean the silicone thoroughly before initial use. Fill gaps in the 3d printed model with a light epoxy resin. Use mould release and ensure you wash and sterilize that silicon mould before using it with chocolate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An actual chocolate printer is not easy to come by, as a normal 3d printer converted to use chocolate is not able to be sterilized for food use.&#xA;The video in the link illustrates one person's attempt at this process.&#xA;&lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/oRBxuDvS2gs?start=0&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12857" LastActivityDate="2020-08-06T19:10:29.980" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14204" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14195" CreationDate="2020-08-06T20:10:27.100" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The bubble will contain air, but this will vary by printer. Most resin printers lift the printed part out of the bath slightly after each layer. Some printers, however, don't lift the piece completely out of the bath. This will cause the resin to become entrapped. Once those entrapped pockets of resin are exposed to light, they will also undergo photopolymerization. It may be possible however to program those printers to lift the part completely out of the resin for each layer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12857" LastActivityDate="2020-08-06T20:10:27.100" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14205" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11326" CreationDate="2020-08-07T01:13:03.520" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, E3D has a guide &lt;a href=&quot;https://e3d-online.dozuki.com/Guide/LulzBot+Taz6+Hemera+Upgrade/123&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&amp;quot;LulzBot Taz6 Hemera Upgrade&amp;quot;&lt;/a&gt; if you'd like to make your own.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The upgrade requires you to print parts beforehand which are found &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4008893&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;; note that:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We recommend printing the Hemera Mount in PETG, and the Fan Duct in ABS/ ASA or another high-temperature material.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Use an infill percentage of 25 % or higher.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Hemera (the new name for the Hermes) toolheads are also available for purchase, e.g. &lt;a href=&quot;https://itworks3d.com/product/it-works-3d-e3d-hemera-toolhead-for-lulzbot-printers/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20689" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-08-07T05:58:03.453" LastActivityDate="2020-08-07T05:58:03.453" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14206" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14208" CreationDate="2020-08-07T08:15:38.650" Score="0" ViewCount="1538" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to model the threads of a &amp;quot;Poland Spring&amp;quot; 500 ml bottle so I can 3D print an adapter for it. But I can't find information about it. I emailed them but they said they didn't have the information.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I find this information out?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bottle seems to use non standard threads. It uses 3 threads 120 degrees apart that does not go all the way around.   Any information on how to get this information?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nEnwV.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nEnwV.png&quot; alt=&quot;bottle&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20878" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-08-07T21:44:02.047" LastActivityDate="2020-08-07T21:44:02.047" Title="Converting / measuring bottle threads for creating an adapter to it" Tags="|3d-design|mechanics|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14207" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14199" CreationDate="2020-08-07T09:14:44.933" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The up-curling of overhangs is frequently seen when printing PLA or PETG when the just deposited layer hasn't been cooled enough. The residual heat will allow the curling as the plastic has not been fully set (above the so called glass temperature) because of insufficient part cooling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Knowing that ABS doesn't need much cooling (to improve the inter-layer bonding), you most probably will not require full power of the fan (depending on the cooling power of the fan). You do need a little cooling though, but not for the first (few) layer(s), so keep the fan off at the first layer. Be sure it is up to speed at the layer you require the cooling as the first few percentage of the fan is generally not enough to rotate the fan. E.g. my fans start spinning at about 20-25 %.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2020-08-07T09:14:44.933" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14208" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14206" CreationDate="2020-08-07T09:41:36.930" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can use a program known as &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.openscad.org/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;OpenSCAD&lt;/a&gt; with the &lt;a href=&quot;https://dkprojects.net/openscad-threads/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;threads library&lt;/a&gt; to assist your objective.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The important aspects of a thread are the major diameter (outside diameter at the thread surface), the length of the bolt/nut and for your project, the start count. The noted library has a parameter called n-starts, which covers your triple start requirement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It may require some trial and error processing, but you have a good foundation with OpenSCAD library.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even if the bottle is manufactured with Imperial reference (unlikely), you'd probably have an easier time with metric threads. I just checked a Dasani water bottle, which measured at 27.27 mm major diameter, 10 mm length, thread pitch 2 mm. The thread pitch in metric is the distance between peaks (or valleys) from one to the next. This particular bottle has an interrupted thread, but that should not be a factor for creating an adapter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This Dasani bottle does not have a multi-start thread. It's not a complete thread, but it is single start. Considering that a water bottle top has minimal length, you may also have an interrupted rather than a multi-start thread.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The code for the measured thread in OpenSCAD is relatively simple.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;use &amp;lt;threads.scad&amp;gt;;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;thread_dia = 27.27;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;thread_pitch = 2;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;thread_length = 10;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;metric_thread(thread_dia, thread_pitch, thread_length, n_starts = 3);&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The above code would generate a 3-start thread in the form of a bolt. Using a difference() code would provide for the inverse required for your proposed adapter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bvliP.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bvliP.png&quot; alt=&quot;single start 27 mm threads&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/i4vsS.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/i4vsS.png&quot; alt=&quot;triple start threads&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;top image is single start, bottom is triple start.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Top view comparison:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0oGnP.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0oGnP.png&quot; alt=&quot;comparison top view&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastActivityDate="2020-08-07T09:41:36.930" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14210" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14206" CreationDate="2020-08-07T17:53:11.793" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's really unlikely that a bottle is using nonstandard threads; the engineering and tooling cost for doing so would not make sense. Most plastic drink bottles use PCO 1881 or PCO 1810 threads. If not, it should be one of a number of other less widely used standards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The industry term for drink bottle thread is &amp;quot;neck finish&amp;quot;. Searching on that, or on one of the standard names like PCO 1881, will find you a lot of information. You can then try to find a match for your threads. Note that the breaks 120 degrees apart do not affect the thread design, and may or may not be part of the neck finish standard, so you can ignore them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are existing OpenSCAD libraries for some of these, including&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/adrianschlatter/threadlib#list-of-supported-threads&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;threadlib&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/MisterHW/IoP-satellite&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;IoP-satellite&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And some related articles on Hackaday about their development and use:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://hackaday.com/2020/07/12/learn-the-secrets-of-matching-bottle-cap-threads-to-one-another/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Learn The Secrets Of Matching Bottle Cap Threads To One Another&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://hackaday.io/page/5252-generating-nice-threads-in-openscad&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Generating Nice Threads in OpenSCAD&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2020-08-07T17:53:11.793" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14211" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11605" CreationDate="2020-08-07T22:03:12.143" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just had the same idea and googled it. My idea was to submerge the whole print platform in the water and lower it down so that the water level and the current layer line are always at the same height. Maybe a pump would be required to counteract the plastic displacing water. Completely floating parts of the print could have a tower with three contact points underneath to keep them in place without having to lift the whole structure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23174" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2020-08-08T05:21:36.270" LastActivityDate="2020-08-08T05:21:36.270" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14213" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-08-08T17:13:00.190" Score="2" ViewCount="493" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there a way of reducing the amount and strength of Model support when slicing in Cura?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cleaning a model with large amounts of support can consume large amounts of time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21577" LastEditorUserId="14562" LastEditDate="2020-08-09T11:52:30.373" LastActivityDate="2020-09-08T12:00:00.163" Title="Is there a more efficient methods of removing support in a model?" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|3d-models|support-structures|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14214" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14213" CreationDate="2020-08-08T18:33:47.350" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could reduce the &lt;code&gt;Support Density&lt;/code&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A higher value results in better overhangs, but the supports are harder to remove.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Furthermore read &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/7991/&quot;&gt;this answer&lt;/a&gt; on question: &amp;quot;&lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/7989/difficult-to-remove-support-material/&quot;&gt;Difficult to remove support material&lt;/a&gt;&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2020-08-08T18:33:47.350" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14216" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14213" CreationDate="2020-08-08T18:53:15.580" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's a lot that can be done to improve the removability of supports, and much of this is not widely known/published.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One big wrong default in Cura that contributes to problems with support is &lt;em&gt;Limit Support Retractions&lt;/em&gt;, which defaults to on. This causes heavy stringing between components of the support structure that should be separate, and poor layer adhesion between layers of the support &lt;em&gt;and between layers of whatever is printed right after the support&lt;/em&gt; (!!), making support more brittle and difficult to remove in clean chunks. This setting should be turned off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I find &lt;em&gt;Enable Support Brim&lt;/em&gt; is also useful. Its nominal purpose is to make supports adhere to the bed better, but it also gives them more of a solid bottom so that the structure is rigid and admits snapping off as a chunk.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A nonzero &lt;em&gt;Support Wall Line Count&lt;/em&gt; (it's zero by default for zigzag and most support patterns, but one by default for support tree and others) can make chunks of support easier to remove by making them more rigid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Connect Support Lines&lt;/em&gt; (also called &lt;code&gt;zig_zaggify_infill&lt;/code&gt;) helps with rigidity too, and with reducing time wasted on retractions once you turn off &lt;em&gt;Limit Support Retractions&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Aside from these less-well-known tunables, the obvious ones are &lt;em&gt;Support Z Distance&lt;/em&gt; and &lt;em&gt;Support X/Y Distance&lt;/em&gt;, especially Z. You can increase this slightly from the default to make supports easier to remove, but it will hurt the quality of the surface just above the support (making it less flat, more stringy like a bridge). And the biggest one of all is &lt;em&gt;Support Angle&lt;/em&gt;. Generally increase it as high as you can go, after doing some test prints to determine the maximum overhang angle you can print without support. This will save material and make it easier to remove what supports remain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, aside from support options, you want to make sure you don't have underlying print problems causing oozing, bulging, or other dimensional-accuracy/extrusion-accuracy issues. This is because any material that is printed or expands into the wrong place will, if it's adjacent to support material, bond to the support material and make it hard to remove.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2020-08-08T18:53:15.580" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14218" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14199" CreationDate="2020-08-09T07:31:22.937" Score="1" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Results of the suggestions in comments and answers&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Following are the results, coming from the great answers received on this page. I post them here in case it can helps further readers in achieving good results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: when two numbers are indicated, the first is for the first layer, and the second for the rest of the piece. (e.g. 250 ºC / 230 ºC)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to see the result, go now directly to the bottom of the answer :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note2: Pictures are taken from the &lt;strong&gt;worse&lt;/strong&gt; side. In some cases, other sides are much better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First try:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Nozzle temperature: 250 ºC / 240 ºC&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Platform temperature: 100 ºC&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Chamber temperature: 70 ºC&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Speed: 60 mm/s&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fan: 0% / 50%&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kT6wtm.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kT6wtm.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second try:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Nozzle temperature: 250 ºC / 240 ºC&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Platform temperature: 100 ºC&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Chamber temperature: 70 ºC&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Speed: 20s / layer&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fan: 0% / 50%&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CHxA5m.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CHxA5m.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Third try:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Nozzle temperature: 250 ºC / 240 ºC&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Platform temperature: 100 ºC&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Chamber temperature: 70 ºC&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Speed: 20s / layer&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fan: 0% / &lt;strong&gt;100%&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;95% flow&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oiixVm.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oiixVm.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Forth try:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Nozzle temperature: &lt;strong&gt;245 ºC / 230 ºC&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Platform temperature: 100 ºC&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Chamber temperature: &lt;strong&gt;50 ºC&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Speed: 20s / layer&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fan: 0% / 100%&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;95% flow&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jaTlXm.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jaTlXm.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fifth try (succeed):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Nozzle temperature: &lt;strong&gt;245 ºC / 225 ºC&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Platform temperature: 100 ºC&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Chamber temperature: &lt;strong&gt;40 ºC&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Speed: 20s / layer&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Fan: 0% / 200%&lt;/strong&gt; (I added an additional fan)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;95% flow&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tIQffm.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tIQffm.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;My current settings:&lt;/strong&gt; (in case it helps)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the end, I opted for the following setup, which seems to adapt better to all kind of shapes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Nozzle temperature: 250 ºC / 250 ºC &lt;em&gt;(slighty higher temperature help adhesion between layers and give better piece resistance)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Platform temperature: 100 ºC / 80 ºC &lt;em&gt;(80 ºC I had some piece deformation over 85 ºC, especially big pieces)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Chamber temperature: 50 ºC&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Speed: 40 mm/s, or even 30 mm/s &lt;em&gt;(Help adhesion and good precision)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fan: 0% / 200% &lt;em&gt;(I added an additional fan, helps avoid deformation in corners, as described in the question)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Scale the piece 100.5% &lt;em&gt;(ABS shrink)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Minimum layer time: 20s &lt;em&gt;(For small pieces, this allows each layer to cool enough)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Build Plate Adhesion: Brim&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;100% flow&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Conclusions:&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The solution is to cool each layer as much as possible and as soon as possible, BUT avoiding warping.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Use a very strong adhesion to avoid the warping, allowing a better cooling of each layer.&lt;/strong&gt; In my case I started to use a cheap and strong hairspray (which works surprisingly well).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Using chamber temperature over 50 ºC make it more difficult to cool each layer quickly, thus, it is not recommended.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Using ventilation is a must.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Different configuration for first layer and consecutive layers helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12615" LastEditorUserId="12615" LastEditDate="2020-09-13T09:55:51.880" LastActivityDate="2020-09-13T09:55:51.880" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14220" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3238" CreationDate="2020-08-09T13:51:43.740" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had my printer Anycubic-Chiron converted from 1.75 mm filament to 3.00 mm, as it is big enough to handle bigger filament and the printer itself came with two sizes of the heatsink - the other fit to 3.00 mm filament.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition, I changed my extruder to a &amp;quot;Bulldog&amp;quot; extruder kit for 1.75 and 3 mm filament plus the PTFE tube and had to change the metal tube (heat break) between the heatsink and the hotend.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, the conversion failed, the filament gets stuck on multiple points. I found many blogs describing this similar issue. The only possible solution is to increase the heat up to 270 °C at which my printer also fails. As the thickness of 3.00 mm filament prevents the heat to reach the middle of it. That's why it spools on the beginning only of printing then stop. There is no way to continue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, the problem is with the hotend, being mostly designed to suit 1.75 mm filament, not the printer itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23185" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2020-08-10T16:38:47.960" LastActivityDate="2020-08-10T16:38:47.960" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14221" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14236" CreationDate="2020-08-09T21:17:50.250" Score="2" ViewCount="241" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know of a hot end that is sealed? What I meaning is that the hot end has a rubber seal where the filament enters to keep the top airtight (in order to eliminate oozing).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am looking to build a dual extruder printer but, I do not want any oozing from the hot end which is not in use. I could build a system to retract and 'close' the nozzle but it would be much more elegant if it would work to just seal the top of the hot end. Thus achieving the same effect as when you pull up water with a straw by covering the top with your finger.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19381" LastEditorUserId="14562" LastEditDate="2020-08-10T22:10:07.030" LastActivityDate="2020-08-11T22:47:26.720" Title="Is there such thing as a sealed dual extruder hot end?" Tags="|extruder|hotend|dual-nozzle|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14222" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3238" CreationDate="2020-08-09T22:06:26.917" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It can be quite straightforward to convert from 1.75 mm to 2.85 or 3.0 mm, but it requires to buy hardware specifically for larger diameter filament. Nowadays, in 2020, Ultimaker is still using 2.85 mm filament which is not more expensive than the smaller diameter (at least not for the premium brands I'm using). I converted to the larger diameter filament years ago to be able to exchange filament with an Ultimaker 3E I maintain and manage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To convert to a larger diameter, you need to be aware of&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/q/264&quot;&gt;pros and cons&lt;/a&gt; of the various diameters&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;increasing the stepper motor torque to be able to extrude the filament; larger diameter filament &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/7998&quot;&gt;requires much more pressure&lt;/a&gt; than smaller diameter filament; the easiest way to do that is reducing the speed (and as such increasing the torque) of the extruder using a belt drive or gear reduction&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;buying specific parts for your hotend, e.g. heat sink, heat break, etc.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;modify the steps per mm for the extruder&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thingiverse has always been a great starting point for me for larger diameter filament extruders; my own custom extruders are based on such designs. It is perfectly possible to convert to a different filament diameter, but, it requires some money, time, elbow grease and engineering from your side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2020-08-09T22:06:26.917" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14223" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14221" CreationDate="2020-08-10T00:02:07.003" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It doesn't work that way, or perhaps in some sense it already does.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &amp;quot;straw effect&amp;quot; you're describing depends on the water not being under any pressure that exceeds the outside atmosphereic pressure. If you squeeze the straw or otherwise apply pressure, it will immediately spill out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're printing at more than a ridiculously slow print speed (slow enough that it would fail for other reasons, like the nozzle melting the already-printed part just by proximity to it), the filament is under very high pressure from the extruder gear. The primary function of retraction is not to move the filament back out of the nozzle orifice, but simply to relieve that pressure. (A little bit more is needed to prevent oozing, however.) When retraction happens, it's exactly like the &amp;quot;straw effect&amp;quot; you're describing. The material pulled back out of the hotend into the heatbreak hardens enough that it makes a nearly air-tight seal, preventing the molten material below from flowing out of the nozzle due to gravity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your hotend does not have design problems and if you're using retraction correctly (that means using it &lt;strong&gt;everywhere&lt;/strong&gt; that you're making a move that's not an extrusion one, not skipping it with &amp;quot;Limit Support Retractions&amp;quot; or &amp;quot;Combing&amp;quot;), you should not see oozing, ever. The system already works the way you want it to. But you can't magically get rid of the need for retraction. It's part of how the system you want works.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2020-08-10T00:02:07.003" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14224" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11605" CreationDate="2020-08-10T16:54:32.450" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is exactly how the $100 &lt;a href=&quot;https://hackaday.com/2016/05/11/peachy-printer-collapses-investor-built-a-house-instead-of-a-printer/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Peachy Printer&lt;/a&gt; was supposed to work. Unfortunately, fraud sunk the Kickstarter campaign and no-one got their printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="983" LastActivityDate="2020-08-10T16:54:32.450" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14225" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-08-10T18:33:35.463" Score="2" ViewCount="237" Body="&lt;p&gt;I installed a knockoff BLTouch called the 3DTouch on my Sidewinder X1. The sensor triggers correctly, however, the printer responds to the signal way too late.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, I was testing it and decided to trigger it with my finger to see if it was responding at all. After the trigger the printer continued downwards for another 3-4 inches, this would put the head below the bed if I let the bed trigger it. The printer just seems to get the message way too late.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has anyone encountered an issue like this before, part of me thinks it's a calibration issue but honestly it is so far off that I am not sure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think it is firmware but I followed this tutorial, &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtube.com/watch?v=V3zEJGOcz7s&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Touch Mi vs BLtouch on the Artillery3D X1 + MKS TFT babystepping&lt;/a&gt;, specifically for the sidewinder X1 to a T so I don't know what I am missing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/V3zEJGOcz7s?start=0&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The head is stopping once triggered, it's just stopping too late. If I trigger it while it is up high when it goes down a couple of inches and then starts the rest of the self-level procedure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12914" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2020-08-11T03:18:43.327" LastActivityDate="2020-08-11T03:18:43.327" Title="3DTouch activating but responding too late" Tags="|bed-leveling|3dtouch|artillery-sidewinder-x1|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14226" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-08-11T04:29:11.153" Score="1" ViewCount="204" Body="&lt;p&gt;Had a print stop about 20 % through and read through some old questions (3+ years) so I'm posting again.  Apologies if it's in here some where...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Found the layer to restart, deleted everything from layer 0 to layer 77 (in my case)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The set the E value to the value in layer 76, but still no extrusion.  Using Ultimaker Cura.  I can dump this but really want to know for future issues with larger prints...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;EDITED AFTER ANOTHER ATTEMPT:  (Same effect)&#xA;Sorry, I'm at a loss&lt;/em&gt;&#xA;also made change to G92 code subtracting 5&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is the start sequence:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;;FLAVOR:Marlin&#xA;;TIME:41644&#xA;;Filament used: 21.0489m&#xA;;Layer height: 0.2&#xA;;MINX:29.678&#xA;;MINY:92.227&#xA;;MINZ:0.2&#xA;;MAXX:198.806&#xA;;MAXY:194.503&#xA;;MAXZ:65.6&#xA;;Generated with Cura_SteamEngine 4.6.1&#xA;M140 S50&#xA;M105&#xA;M190 S50&#xA;M104 S200&#xA;M105&#xA;M109 S200&#xA;M82 ;absolute extrusion mode&#xA;; Ender 3 Custom Start G-code&#xA;G92 E0 ; Reset Extruder&#xA;G28 ; Home all axes&#xA;G1 Z2.0 F3000 ; Move Z Axis up little to prevent scratching of Heat Bed&#xA;G1 X0.1 Y20 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move to start position&#xA;G1 X0.1 Y200.0 Z0.3 F1500.0 E15 ; Draw the first line&#xA;G1 X0.4 Y200.0 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move to side a little&#xA;G1 X0.4 Y20 Z0.3 F1500.0 E30 ; Draw the second line&#xA;G92 E0 ; Reset Extruder&#xA;G1 Z2.0 F3000 ; Move Z Axis up little to prevent scratching of Heat Bed&#xA;G1 X5 Y20 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move over to prevent blob squish&#xA;G92 E0&#xA;G92 E0&#xA;G1 F2700 E-5&#xA;;LAYER_COUNT:328&#xA;G0 Z15.6&#xA;&#xA;G92 E1744.14148&#xA;;was G92E1749.14148&#xA;&#xA;;TIME_ELAPSED:19808.769206&#xA;;LAYER:77&#xA;;TYPE:SUPPORT&#xA;G1 F2700 E1754.14148&#xA;G1 F1500 X73.481 Y110.942 E1754.14217&#xA;G1 X74.078 Y110.968 E1754.16204&#xA;G1 X74.527 Y110.792 E1754.17808&#xA;G1 X75.311 Y110.007 E1754.21498&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23206" LastEditorUserId="23206" LastEditDate="2020-08-11T14:43:46.967" LastActivityDate="2020-09-10T15:03:10.290" Title="Resume print but no extrusion" Tags="|extrusion|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14228" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13382" CreationDate="2020-08-11T09:32:47.470" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Lot's of factors can cause this behaviour. Firstly check there are no knots in the reel - that can lead to the reel locking up. Second check the PLA temperature and if dual wall (a lot of material being put out) check that the print head is not knocking (running over the top of) excess material due to oozing. I found that after swapping out the print head HE and extruder for new, that the root cause was that I had oozing and was not using the nozzle fan. This led to the head bumping over lumps in longitudinal runs (you could hear a thud), which led to the head getting gradually backed up and the reservoir in the head back-filling with hot PLA. This then created back-pressure into the Bowden tube and then up to the extruder, which is trying to push material into an already full reservoir (head + Bowden). And.. that leads to the cog wheel in the extruder fighting against the pent up flow in the HE. The solution was to put the fan on and that stopped the ooze blobs. Because I had elected to print a fairly heavy object, the wall count was causing an excess build up and my extra-prime setting, although good for thin wall printing, together with the 6mm retract, wasn't right for thick-wall printing. So I could have turned down the extra-prime a bit, but the nozzle fan was the best and easiest option. You have to think about the whole material flow process and how the system is wired: flow-wise. It's a fancy glue gun when you think about it. So you have to be mindful of all of the parameters that can affect material flow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having replaced the HE was actually a good idea, as I can now easily prime the head just by pushing material through by hand and feeling the flow. If you are having to push really hard, that means there is a blockage: either the head, or in the tubing or reservoir. Every two months you should maintain the printer and make sure that the head is running clear. The Bowden can also start to restrict in the head where the cleat locks onto the tubing. Heat, plus continual flexing leads to the tube starting to kink. If you are getting flakes at the extruder gear mechanism, then you have a Bowden tube or HE issue. Pushing the PLA by hand will tell you that. After a new HE is put in, you can feel the difference. A Creality 3D Pro head assembly is a few quid. I would suggest keeping a spare set of parts for maintenance work on-hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Flakes at the extruder could also be a sure sign of water ingress in the PLA. Look for small warts or bubbles in the print. If so, put the reel in an oven at at 60 °C for about 10-15 minutes. Then let cool off. Ideally you need a dry room to store reels, or a proper bucket with a drying agent inside. In the summer as heat and humidity rises, you'll notice that there's more absorption of water. If your printer is in the same room as a washing machine/dryer, you're asking for trouble. Ideally you need a dry cool space. Or just print a huge batch off and get through the reel quickly...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23209" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2020-08-11T10:39:25.283" LastActivityDate="2020-08-11T10:39:25.283" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14229" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14226" CreationDate="2020-08-11T11:51:21.177" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The line you added:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;G1 E1749.14148&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;asks the printer to extrude 1.7 &lt;strong&gt;meters&lt;/strong&gt; of filament. The firmware likely has a feature to ignore such excessive requests as bogus. Then, subsequent extrusion amounts are also huge (1.7m+) relative  to the current extruder position (0) and also get ignored. What you meant to do was:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;G92 E1749.14148&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;which means &amp;quot;set the logical extruder position for its current physical position to 1749.14148 mm&amp;quot; so that subsequent extruder positioning commands are interpreted relative to that initial position.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2020-08-11T11:51:21.177" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14230" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7989" CreationDate="2020-08-11T14:34:45.640" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is recommended that you try &amp;quot;tree support&amp;quot; in the &amp;quot;experimental&amp;quot; module of settings.Also,before removing the support, blowing with a hot air gun to soften the support material connected to the model may achieve good results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23210" LastEditorUserId="23210" LastEditDate="2020-08-11T16:03:39.400" LastActivityDate="2020-08-11T16:03:39.400" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14232" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14199" CreationDate="2020-08-11T16:14:55.667" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;We usually stick the masking tape on the printer's bottom plate, so that the model is formed on the side of the masking tape which without glue, which looks good.&#xA;When there is no masking tape, we sometimes manually adjust the height of the bottom plate to make the nozzle appress to the bottom plate when printing the first layer. At this time, the melted material can hardly flow out. The strong pressure will adhere the material tightly to the bottom plate, which can effectively solve this problem. However, this may damage the extruder motor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23210" LastActivityDate="2020-08-11T16:14:55.667" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14236" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14221" CreationDate="2020-08-11T22:47:26.720" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In a true dual-extruder / dual hot-end printer, having a seal isn't necessary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On my dual-extruder printer, the non-active extruder does an aggressive retraction and then drops the hot-end temp down to a &lt;em&gt;stand by&lt;/em&gt; temperature which is lower than the melting point of the filament.  Because it had an aggressive retraction ... and it's cooling ... the filament doesn't seem to ever make it out before it has cooled to the point where the filament drops below the melting point.  While there is no 'seal' ... it doesn't ooze.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The slicer software (I use Cura) estimates the time remaining before the extruder needs to become active and will start to pre-heat the hot-end so that there wont be much (if any) delay.  Once the extruder becomes active, it will re-prime and will usually move to a prime tower to get the filament flowing again ... while the other nozzle (the one that just became inactive) does a retraction and starts cooling down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With this technique of retracting and lowering the inactive hot-end to a standby temperature, I have never personally experienced an issue with oozing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23219" LastActivityDate="2020-08-11T22:47:26.720" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14237" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-08-11T23:05:36.710" Score="0" ViewCount="333" Body="&lt;p&gt;How do I 3D print to Ultimaker Cura from Fusion 360?&#xA;(from: File &amp;gt; 3D Print)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I added Cura to the 3D print list, but whenever I click OK, the application does not open.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23125" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2020-08-15T20:33:40.583" LastActivityDate="2020-08-17T02:27:34.250" Title="Sending a 3D model from Fusion 360 to Ultimaker Cura for printing fails" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|fusion360|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14238" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14241" CreationDate="2020-08-11T23:45:21.013" Score="1" ViewCount="105" Body="&lt;p&gt;The insulation of the heater block got pulled off...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was trying to print ABS on my TEVO Tornado, overnight. But I not-so-smartly left the window open overnight, thinking it was alright (as to remove the fumes) but then it warped so much that it pulled off the insulation of the hotend.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is no longer heating up to over 200 degrees Celcius. It starts showing a message saying &lt;code&gt;PRINTER HALTED: PLEASE RESET&lt;/code&gt; Should I just re-insulate it? if I should, what do I use for insulation?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21823" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-08-12T05:08:29.517" LastActivityDate="2020-08-12T08:04:10.197" Title="Is nozzle no longer heating up correctly related to hotend insulation being pulled off?" Tags="|hotend|abs|tevo-tornado|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14239" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14240" CreationDate="2020-08-12T01:11:45.453" Score="2" ViewCount="8455" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am thinking about getting into the 3D printing craze and currently looking at purchasing a Creality Ender 3 V2 as an entry-level unit. I would like to print using the normal PLA, PETG, ABS, etc. but I'm also thinking of metal-infused PLA or similar for printing jewelry. The suggested modification that I have found in researching is the &lt;a href=&quot;https://store.micro-swiss.com/collections/creality-cr-10/products/all-metal-hotend-kit-for-cr-10&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Micro Swiss All Metal Hotend&lt;/a&gt; in order to reach the higher temps for printing metals.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Am I correct with this additional mod? Are there other Hotends that would better? Any additional mods for working with metals?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23193" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2022-01-12T07:46:20.270" LastActivityDate="2022-01-12T07:46:20.270" Title="Additional mods for printing metal filled filament with Ender 3 V2?" Tags="|creality-ender-3|metal-printing|filled-pla|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14240" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14239" CreationDate="2020-08-12T03:55:49.640" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is a lot of misinformation in the 3D printing world about &amp;quot;all-metal hotends&amp;quot; being an upgrade. Some of them, especially clones, are not even all-metal but just poor lookalikes that create all sorts of problems. But even if you get a real one, it's a &lt;em&gt;trade-off&lt;/em&gt;, not an upgrade. It lets you print materials that need a hotend temperature over 250 °C (over which the PTFE liner will begin to degrade and possibly release small amounts of harmful gasses) up to the temperature your heating element can achieve, at the cost of losing the extremely-low-friction PTFE pathway all the way to the nozzle, which aids with smooth extrusion and retraction and avoids jams. Depending on your particular all-metal hotend, it may be harder to get retraction working correctly than with a normal PTFE-lined one. Some users report very good results, others lots of problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are very few materials that need temperatures over 250 °C to print that don't also need a much more expensive machine (or at least a heavily-modified one) for other reasons, such as requirement of a high-temperature enclosure. The main materials that can be printed on an Ender 3 with an all-metal hotend but not the standard PTFE-lined hotend are polycarbonate (needing 255-300 °C) and some forms of nylon (which may need up to 250-270 °C). All the other non-exotic materials, including PLA, ABS, PETG, and TPU, and even some exotic ones like POM (aka delrin or acetal) and many nylons, can be printed just fine with a stock Ender 3 (possibly with a minimal enclosure built around it).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In particular, for the purpose you want - printing metal-infused PLA - there is no point whatsoever in an all-metal hotend. Metal-infused PLA is printed within the temperature range of PLA, which is typically 230 °C at the absolute highest (and preferably much lower) and the printer you're looking at should print it just fine out-of-the-box (or rather, once you assemble it).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're concerned about abrasive wear from the filament, this affects the nozzle not the hotend. Technically the nozzle is &amp;quot;part of&amp;quot; the hotend assembly, but it's easily removable and generally considered a consumable item that you replace periodically. You can get hardened steel nozzles and all sorts of other exotic replacements designed not to wear out from abrasive materials, but the standard brass has the best thermal (heat conduction) properties and is so cheap you're generally better off sticking with it and buying a pack of 20 or so to have on hand when they eventually need replacement. In any case, there's no need to replace the hotend with an all-metal one to deal with nozzle wear; you can get either type of replacement to fit the original one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastEditorUserId="11157" LastEditDate="2020-08-12T18:50:49.957" LastActivityDate="2020-08-12T18:50:49.957" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14241" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14238" CreationDate="2020-08-12T05:20:21.913" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes I had this same problem myself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will need to re-insulate it using a silicone block and next time don't leave the window open while printing. Just keep the fan or AC on to circulate the air.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23221" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2020-08-12T08:04:10.197" LastActivityDate="2020-08-12T08:04:10.197" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14242" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-08-12T06:06:16.787" Score="0" ViewCount="521" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a DIY 3D printer. Everything works fine except the heated bed. When I plug my heated bed to the D8 terminal smoke comes out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is my third RAMPS board that I have had this problem with. After it burns the RAMPS still works but the heated bed doesn't stop to heat. I am using a 12 V 30 A power supply.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it something about my power supply?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hxdjb.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Annotated RAMPS board showing hot areas&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hxdjb.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Annotated RAMPS board showing hot areas&quot; title=&quot;Annotated RAMPS board showing hot areas&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21814" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2020-08-12T14:09:33.633" LastActivityDate="2020-08-12T16:01:47.420" Title="Three RAMPS boards wasted by plugging in a heated bed" Tags="|diy-3d-printer|heated-bed|ramps-1.4|repetier|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14244" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14246" CreationDate="2020-08-12T15:55:59.250" Score="3" ViewCount="458" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an MP Select Mini V2 and when I turn on the printer and select the &amp;quot;print&amp;quot; menu it hangs while saying &amp;quot;please wait&amp;quot; instead of listing the &lt;code&gt;.gcode&lt;/code&gt; files stored on the SD card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have been using that printer with that SD card for hundreds of prints without error. It started when I took it out and added a new &lt;code&gt;.gcode&lt;/code&gt; file (sliced in Cura with the same settings as I always use) and placed it back into the printer to print it. When I connect the SD card into my computer (Windows 10) everything seems normal with the card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What could be causing this issue?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23230" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-08-13T12:13:38.363" LastActivityDate="2020-08-13T13:41:59.570" Title="&quot;print&quot; menu not loading on Monoprice MP Select Mini V2" Tags="|monoprice-select-mini|microsd|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14245" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14242" CreationDate="2020-08-12T16:01:47.420" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It could be a couple of issues:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;the heated bed tries to use more power than the ramps board is capable of because the traces on the board aren't big enough to get rid of the heat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;the thermistor is broken / not properly connected or configured, and it keeps on heating the bed forever.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;a short somewhere in the wiring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My advice:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check the wiring. If there is no short, check your thermistor. Is it reporting the right temperature? If it reports the right temperature, try using a external mosfet module for the heated bed. These are fairly cheap, and easy to connect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23232" LastActivityDate="2020-08-12T16:01:47.420" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14246" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14244" CreationDate="2020-08-12T16:44:16.210" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Too many files on SD card&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I removed some files and now it works, it seems like the menu would not load if the SD card contained more files than the printer could display on the print menu (they didn't take up a lot of space in memory, though).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23230" LastEditorUserId="23230" LastEditDate="2020-08-13T13:41:59.570" LastActivityDate="2020-08-13T13:41:59.570" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14248" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14256" CreationDate="2020-08-13T02:50:15.843" Score="1" ViewCount="186" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to develop a device to burn a glass slide surface with a special pattern of UV light (between 300 nm and 360 nm) in a 5 cm square surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've read several threads asking questions about LCD printers and their way of functioning but I am not entirely sure how they work. So far I have found two methods that explain LCD printers:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The LCD screen emits light in UV spectrum that causes the resin to cure. &lt;em&gt;I don't believe there are any LCD screens that can emit at 360 nm.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Initially there's a UV light bulb 'behind' the LCD screen which is translucent when off. The pattern is drawn in the LCD screen interfering with UV light's path drawing the image in the plate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If option two is the right one, do you know any devices (uv light and lcd screen) to develop what I want within the 360 nm wavelength?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively, can a DLP projector to emit UV light (by adding a UV light bulb)? Would it still need to be cured?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20704" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2020-08-13T14:16:35.863" LastActivityDate="2020-08-15T12:40:35.873" Title="LCD/DLP resin curing system" Tags="|diy-3d-printer|sla|resin|dlp|lcd-screen|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14250" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14254" CreationDate="2020-08-14T12:41:14.197" Score="2" ViewCount="2680" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have stuck resin print that won't detach from the bed of my Creality LD-002R LCD Printer. I guess I could break the print off piece by piece, but it won't budge with pressure, pulling with all my strength, or even hitting it pretty hard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2493" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2020-08-15T10:12:38.697" LastActivityDate="2020-11-21T10:31:41.630" Title="How do I remove a stuck resin print" Tags="|resin|creality-ld-002r|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14251" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14253" CreationDate="2020-08-14T21:07:15.707" Score="3" ViewCount="772" Body="&lt;p&gt;With resin LCD printers (not filament!), what are the considerations to choose between PLA and &amp;quot;water soluble&amp;quot;? Microcenter carries resins from esun in these two types, and their spec sheets indicate that tyhe water-soluble type has higher tensile strength and other mechanical properties. Which leads me to wonder, under what circumstances one selects PLA then?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2493" LastEditorUserId="2493" LastEditDate="2020-08-15T17:06:00.113" LastActivityDate="2020-08-15T18:20:05.730" Title="Resin types: Water Soluble vs PLA" Tags="|resin|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14252" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-08-14T21:56:15.140" Score="2" ViewCount="168" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have never used ABS filament before, so my question is, how do I prepare my &lt;strong&gt;glass&lt;/strong&gt; build plate for printing ABS filament?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My second question, is, after you have prepared it, and have finished printing, can you 3d print with other plastics, such as PLA after?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23125" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2020-08-15T20:26:29.873" LastActivityDate="2020-08-15T20:26:29.873" Title="How to prepare bed for printing ABS filament?" Tags="|pla|abs|adhesion|glass-bed|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14253" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14251" CreationDate="2020-08-15T10:08:45.343" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;First of all, let's look at what the filaments are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;PLA &amp;amp; PVA Filaments&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Normal &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.esun3d.net/UploadFiles/Download/MSDS_eSUN_PLA%20filament.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;PLA&lt;/a&gt; and Water-soluble &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.esun3d.net/UploadFiles/Download/MSDS_eSUN_PVA%20filament.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;PVA&lt;/a&gt; contain for the most part the material on the tin, its precursors, and possibly some modifiers. These are only suitable for thermoplastic processes like injection molding or  FDM/FFF (Filament deposition modeling/Fused Filament Fabrication) printers - the finished polymer can't be made back into a UV-curable resin easily. Both materials are chemically rather well bonded and are not very reactive at all. They are biodegradable and not a lot of toxic waste. PLA needs &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/7866/8884&quot;&gt;very strong chemicals such as dichlormethane&lt;/a&gt; to go into solution, but PVA is water-soluble.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Resin&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Almost no cured resin (as in post-polymerized) is water-soluble, your webshop might have a misnomer as it meant to write the proper name: water-washable, which is meant to reflect the ability to put the unpolymerized &lt;em&gt;monomers&lt;/em&gt; into solution in water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;eResin&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;eSun offers an eResin-PLA-Bio-Photopolymer, which is &lt;em&gt;similar&lt;/em&gt; to PLA, but it is &lt;strong&gt;not the same material&lt;/strong&gt; you get for an FDM printer. You see this most easily by checking the density &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.esun3d.net/UploadFiles/Download/MSDS_eSUN_LCD%20eResin-PLA.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;and the MSDS&lt;/a&gt;: Real PLA has a density of 1.21–1.43 g/cm³, eResin (as the bottles are labeled) has a density of merely 1.07-1.13 g/cm³. This is a totally different material in the bottle! It is most likely a resin mix that is based on lactic acid monomers and a UV-active acid that can bond the monomers, creating a structure that does contain lactic acid groups and the binder - but most certainly it is not chemically identical to PLA. It contains, according to the MSDS, &lt;a href=&quot;https://chem.nlm.nih.gov/chemidplus/rn/25035-69-2&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Polyurethane acrylate&lt;/a&gt; as the 'binder', &lt;a href=&quot;https://chem.nlm.nih.gov/chemidplus/rn/13048-33-4&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;1,6-Hexanediol diacrylate Monomers&lt;/a&gt;, and about 10 % photo inhibitors and pigments. The main selling point seems to be, that comparable to PLA, it would be made from a renewable source to a larger part. The chemical reaction that leads to the completed resin is a question I have pitched on &lt;a href=&quot;https://chemistry.stackexchange.com/questions/138945/polymerisation-of-a-uv-curing-resin&quot;&gt;Chemistry.SE&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It needs to be cleaned with IPA (isopropyl alcohol) or another organic solvent like any standard resin and you are not allowed to rinse the material into the sewer: it is classed as a &lt;code&gt;LONG-TERM AQUATIC HAZARD - Category 4&lt;/code&gt; and its MSDS contains:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Solubility：Soluble in ethanol, ethyl acetate, benzene and other organic solvents, insoluble in water&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;water-washable eSun Resin&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;eSun offers no water-soluble resin at all, they offer a &lt;strong&gt;water washable&lt;/strong&gt; resin, which means that it is supposed to be less toxic than standard resin and safe to rinse effectively without IPA, creating less toxic waste in the process. The MSDS for this is not (yet)) available so I can't evaluate this. However, I have requested the MSDS for the evaluation of safety procedures needed and hope to hear back from them soon. This resin is most certainly not PVA, but it seems to be chemically somewhat similar to their other resins.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2020-08-15T18:20:05.730" LastActivityDate="2020-08-15T18:20:05.730" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14254" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14250" CreationDate="2020-08-15T10:20:21.233" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are generally 3 ways, in order of least to most desirable, and at times you need to combine them in an escalation:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Toss the vat. This is the most expensive and generally should only be the last resort, for example, if you damage your film.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Careful Brute Force. This can damage the film, but carefully getting a wedge between the film and the print might be the only option to remove the last bits sticking to the film. If you have to resort to this, &lt;strong&gt;take your time&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Using thermal expansion. We all know that materials expand when you heat them. The reverse is also true: materials shrink if you cool them. Different materials shrink differently. So by cooling the vat with as little liquid resin and the print inside can lead to the print 'popping' free, just like in an FDM printer. Note however that this might not work on its own in case you made a suction cup (then you need to resort to brute force or drill a hole into the top), and you should take &lt;strong&gt;extreme caution not to contaminate any food with resin&lt;/strong&gt;, as the stuff is not safe for consumption at all. With the right setup, you might be able to heat the build plate carefully while the print itself is kept cool.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2020-11-21T10:31:41.630" LastActivityDate="2020-11-21T10:31:41.630" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14255" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14252" CreationDate="2020-08-15T11:28:34.803" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;ABS can be a problem to print, but there are generally a couple well established methods to prepare your glass bed, which might be combined for best results:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Heated bed. A heated bed is almost a must for ABS and would be set to about 75 to 90 °C for most printers. Often this can suffice on its own, but keep the bed running for the whole print!&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;ABS-Slurry. One of the best functioning adhesive helpers is ABS-Slurry, which is made by mixing a little acetone with as much ABS filament as it will solve, then applying a thin layer of this compound to the glass bed right before the print. It will stink a lot, but it most certainly will offer one of the best adhesions you can get and might even prevent Warping due to the stronger bond to the bed.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rafts. You might want to add a raft of at least 2 layers under the print. The Raft can be removed in the end, but it increases the surface area and can often help to reduce the chance of warping.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now comes the good part: you just need to remove all the ABS residue and the bed is ready for the next preparation for any other material. This can be done with a scraper blade quite easily, maybe some Acetone and then alcohol if there are some really nasty bits.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastActivityDate="2020-08-15T11:28:34.803" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14256" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14248" CreationDate="2020-08-15T12:31:36.740" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's almost always what you call system 2:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The LCD screen is acting as a &amp;quot;mask&amp;quot; for the UV backlight, which is a strong bulb under it. This also is the reason that the screen degrades over time and that the machines need replacement bulbs: the heat from the UV source burns out the screen and itself over time. Both parts are consumable, just like the screen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could technically swap out the light source for any one that fits the machine. However, a 360 nm light source won't help you for printing resins at all: most resins you can buy cure between &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.esun3d.net/UploadFiles/images/2019/11/14/80d8588c5aee444394470641dd5d5c09.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;395 and 410 nm&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, even by curing with an UV light source, you need to post-cure the print. The reason for that is to get rid of any uncured, not washed away resin that still sticks to the surface and that a 3D print right of the platform actually isn't cured fully - especially the inter-layer-bonds are not formed fully and curing in the lightbox increases the stability to the print a lot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2020-08-15T12:40:35.873" LastActivityDate="2020-08-15T12:40:35.873" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14257" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14258" CreationDate="2020-08-15T14:36:13.300" Score="1" ViewCount="4415" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an anycubic photon, and occasionally have trouble removing prints from the build plate. While trying to removing prints I've put some scratches into the surface, as I guess I've come in at the wrong angle trying to get under and leverage the print.&#xA;Typical examples I've seen of people removing prints, they appear to come at it hard with a blunt edge. I've come across scrapers that are blunt and some with a sharper edges.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've put a bit more a ding into my plate today, using a scraper with more of a blade edge for a difficult to remove print. I had used the same scrapper before with great success, as it slide right under and I could leverage the print, but struggled with it today and scratched up my plate.&#xA;I haven't come across much discussion on this so thought I'd ask about scratches to the build plates.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are scratches to the build plate something to be concerned about, is it something that it expected when removing prints?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23273" LastActivityDate="2020-08-15T15:05:45.973" Title="Resin printer build plate scratches/ damage" Tags="|build-plate|resin|build-surface|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14258" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14257" CreationDate="2020-08-15T15:05:45.973" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://forum.formlabs.com/t/scrapes-on-build-platform/17203/12&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;One of the resources&lt;/a&gt; I've found is a forum with a discussion of the impact of scratches.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The general consensus is that scratches are not a problem, as long as there are no burrs above the surface of the plate that would damage the bottom of the vat. One posting party has used 36 grit on a palm sander followed by scotchbrite pad to resurface his plate, but one takes the risk of creating an out-of-plane surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A better method to sand a plate would be to place the sandpaper on a glass surface or something equally flat and planar and pass the build plate repeatedly over that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another aspect of the discussion was that scratches are good, as the rough surface provides a better bond to the resin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You're likely to note that your build plate is not a polished smooth surface for the same reason.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastActivityDate="2020-08-15T15:05:45.973" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14259" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14260" CreationDate="2020-08-15T18:28:53.073" Score="1" ViewCount="112" Body="&lt;p&gt;first time here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I recently bought an Anycubic Mega S and I'm venturing in the 3D world. Lots to learn for sure. I have printed a few items so far and all went pretty well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is about something that caught my attention while browsing on Thingiverse. I was looking for an organizer for a board game that I have and every option I found there shows the piece in a vertical position rather than horizontal which seems like the natural position of the piece.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would like to know why most of this types of pieces are set to be printed in a vertical position rather than horizontal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is the original piece &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2949421&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Betrayal at Baldur's Gate Organizer&lt;/a&gt; by &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/playfutbol2/designs&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Jason Patch&lt;/a&gt;. As you can see in the image below the piece is naturally horizontal but the actual files to print (blue ones) are all vertical.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Vik4M.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Vik4M.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PS.: I didn't really know which tags to use so I just added 3D, feel free to suggest any other I will happily edit it. :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="52" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2020-08-15T20:29:27.207" LastActivityDate="2020-08-17T02:25:34.060" Title="Vertical vs Horizontal shapes printing" Tags="|3d-models|3d-design|print-orientation|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14260" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14259" CreationDate="2020-08-15T20:31:30.280" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Thingieverse does respect the orientation an item was designed in, just like most slicers will. Designers will often choose any one of the three planes (XY, YZ, ZX) as their first by preference, then work out the other parts in relation to the first. This does often not take into account the actual print orientation it should be printed in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the case of this box, you'd have to turn all items around the Y-axis (the front-left to back-right one) by 90°, first to the &lt;em&gt;front&lt;/em&gt;, then the &lt;em&gt;back&lt;/em&gt; then to the &lt;em&gt;front&lt;/em&gt; again, getting almost 0 overhangs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2020-08-15T20:38:28.007" LastActivityDate="2020-08-15T20:38:28.007" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14261" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14259" CreationDate="2020-08-17T02:25:34.060" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I design parts in CAD software I pick a starting plane and go from there. And that starting plane doesn't correspond to how the part is designed to be printed. That usually comes later.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20024" LastActivityDate="2020-08-17T02:25:34.060" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14263" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-08-17T03:39:07.797" Score="4" ViewCount="1121" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been wrestling with a filament grinding problem for a few weeks now and I'm stuck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem manifests itself as starting a print alright then extrusion stops while the printer keeps moving. When I pull the filament out I see indents from the gear then a depression where it ground down the filament.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Filament used is 1.75 mm Spool3D PETG on a Hictop printer, which is a clone of a Prusa i3. I don't know the exact part number though. The extruder is direct drive, and the 28 mm heatbreak is connected to a heatsink block rather than something with fins. Nozzle is standard 0.4 mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My print settings are quite conservative. Speed is 20 mm/s, retraction is 20 mm/s (though it never grinds on retraction), temperature is 255 °C, which is 10 °C higher than what works in my other printers. No print cooling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At first I thought there was a clog, but I can push the filament though by hand quite well. I also use cleaning filament frequently and it never pulls out any debris. Heatbreak and nozzle have been changed to fresh items.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anybody have any other ideas of things I can try, or should I just get a new extruder?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20024" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-08-17T05:54:24.593" LastActivityDate="2020-08-17T12:30:54.783" Title="PETG grinding with direct drive extruder" Tags="|prusa-i3|hotend|petg|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14264" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-08-17T04:18:32.450" Score="3" ViewCount="1796" Body="&lt;p&gt;Lately I've been having problems with overhangs not adhering when curvature is outward (stringing across instead) that look like what you'd see at insufficient temperature, and that go away with temperature jacked up a bit (PLA at 220 °C, which is a bit extreme) or fan disabled. Is it possible that the hotend thermistor has drifted and is no longer accurate, making the actual temperature lower than nominal? Or do these things fail hard when they fail?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-06-08T22:21:57.107" LastActivityDate="2021-06-09T09:11:45.637" Title="Do thermistors degrade in accuracy without hard failure?" Tags="|hotend|thermistor|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14265" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14263" CreationDate="2020-08-17T05:58:40.323" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;This does sound a lot like you are experiencing the effects of heat creep (&lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/13328/how-is-heat-creep-characterized&quot;&gt;How is heat creep characterized?&lt;/a&gt;). You should lower the temperature of the hotend and increase the printing speed and retraction speed and possibly lower the retraction length.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;If this is heat creep, a new extruder will not help you until you solve the heat creep first. A new hotend that can be cooled better might be a better solution.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-08-17T12:30:54.783" LastActivityDate="2020-08-17T12:30:54.783" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14266" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14263" CreationDate="2020-08-17T08:17:57.853" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Additionally to the &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/14265&quot;&gt;answer of @0scar&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If the problem happens in the first layer, it can be that the z-offset is not properly setup: if the first layer is too thin, the printer cannot extrude (enough) plastic, and the filament will warm until the gear cannot extrude it any more. The solution is to have the perfect first layer thickness (so it stick well, but extrude the correct plastic amount).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Release a bit the gear pressure on the filament: If the gear is too tight, with the temperature, it start to penetrate/deform the filament, and then is not able to move it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12615" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-08-17T11:02:46.040" LastActivityDate="2020-08-17T11:02:46.040" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14267" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14264" CreationDate="2020-08-17T08:31:40.053" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is indeed possible that the thermistor is broken (yet not sure). I am aware of two types of issues with thermistors:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The contact (soldering) is broken, usually due to the temperature extreme variations. The thermistor will indicate the maximum temperature in case of PTC or minimum temperature in case of NTC. In some cases, due to vibrations or other factor, the contact will eventually touch, showing improbable jumps of temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The thermistor is broken internally. In that case it will just indicate a wrong temperature. I can't say if constant temperature or constant delta.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For how to troubleshot the component, however, EE.SE seems more convenient.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12615" LastActivityDate="2020-08-17T08:31:40.053" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14269" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-08-17T14:47:41.727" Score="1" ViewCount="475" Body="&lt;p&gt;Because I needed to insert nuts in my prints and therefore G-code instructions in their file, I upgraded my printer firmware to Marlin as in here : &lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/_B95y2u0lcw?start=0&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the beginning I did used to get the 6 beeps when booting, and was able to boot back to the initial firmware when hiding the &lt;code&gt;upgrade.cbd&lt;/code&gt; file in a folder, instead of the root level of the SD card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I did by mistake load/save some settings to the EEPROM I guess, and I cannot get back to the initial firmware - at boot time there isn't any beep anymore and it boots directly on the marlin boot wallpaper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How to prevent Marlin forcing the 3D printer to boot on it please?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23291" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-08-17T17:21:08.683" LastActivityDate="2020-08-17T17:21:08.683" Title="Roll back from Marlin 2.0 to manufacturer closed-source firmware" Tags="|marlin|diy-3d-printer|firmware|software|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14270" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14158" CreationDate="2020-08-17T20:17:41.197" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;After one further check (stepper driver current/VREF), which I didn't think could be the problem due to not adjusting to cause the problem; it turns out this actually was the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All stepper drivers have been reset back to correct VREF for their respective motors minus 10% as a safety margin and everything is printing well again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have no idea how VREF could have changed by itself, however thermal expansion on the boards due to constant use may be an explanation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For anyone else experiencing similar issues and who have discounted the stepper drivers as the problem, I suggest resetting VREF to see if that helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23098" LastActivityDate="2020-08-17T20:17:41.197" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14272" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14264" CreationDate="2020-08-18T04:50:55.427" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't think it is the thermistor degrading. To answer your question directly, all my thermistors have failed because the tiny wire has broken off, and generally the fail is “hard” not soft.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is more likely you’re experiencing absorbed humidity in the filament from it being out on the spool too long. this makes you have to increase the temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I’m sure if you dehydrated the spool in the oven for a bit you’d get better prints and a slightly lower print temp.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally, keep in mind that a lot of PLA on the market nowadays runs at higher temps because it’s laced with something (“PLA+”?).  Check the item description for indicators of a new or improved formula.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could try ordering a thermistor of the same make and testing the temperature of it. You can get a half dozen for about \$10. The Marlin firmware your printer probably uses should have a section for thermistors and what kind you’re using. It’s probably type “1” which is the cheap kind.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can try using one of those distant head thermometers to measure the temperature wirelessly at the hot end.  These are probably over \$100 right now because of COVID. I think that is how a well-resourced person would handle this (i'm not one personally).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maybe start with the oven and while it’s cooking, research the thermistors and what goes in to replacing one. It’s a good learning experience because one day your hotend may be irreparably clogged and you’ll want to know some of the steps to disassemble it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10369" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-06-08T22:28:25.703" LastActivityDate="2021-06-08T22:28:25.703" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14273" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14264" CreationDate="2020-08-18T14:09:58.417" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most thermosensors are functionally nothing different but a temperature dependant resistor. As such, our boards usually use &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$U=RI$&lt;/span&gt; to get to the resistance, and then compare that to a temperature table. In effect, they put in a regulated potential difference, and measure how much current flows. Plugging this into &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$U/I=R$&lt;/span&gt; gives the Resistance, which then gives the temperature from the table. In fact, since U is assumed fixed in most firmware, the lookup can also be done directly via the current.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In theory, a resistor's resistance follows &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$R=R_0(1+\alpha \Delta T)$&lt;/span&gt;. Now, Alpha is the proportionality factor of our resistor, delta-T the difference to the tested temperature, at which point the resistor gives R&lt;sub&gt;0&lt;/sub&gt;. Note that Alpha might be also temperature dependant, which is why the firmware looks up the table, not calculates it fresh. So far so good, right? Well... one more thing. Under the standard conditions, we can also use &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$R_0=\rho \frac l A$&lt;/span&gt; to learn about the resistor, the resistance is the specific resistance times length divided by crossection area.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, from just the many factors that play into the thing, we have several points where we might gain error over time:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The Thermosensor's resistor itself might break down, for example by operating it too hot. In this case, the factor &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$\rho$&lt;/span&gt; as well as the effective crossection area get altered. Such a resistor will show a resistance under no heating outside of the known good value. To do this, you'd need to operate your thermosensor above its rating, usually that's in the area of 250 to 290 °C. As an example, the standard e3D Thermosensors are good till &lt;a href=&quot;https://e3d-online.com/collections/printer-parts-electrical/products/thermistor-cartridge&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;about 285 °C&lt;/a&gt;, but they also have ones good for &lt;a href=&quot;https://e3d-online.com/collections/printer-parts-electrical/products/v6-pt100-upgrade-kit&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;up to 500 °C&lt;/a&gt;, while the welded thermocouples are only safe for &lt;a href=&quot;https://e3d-online.com/collections/printer-parts-electrical/products/type-k-thermocouple-welded-tip&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;-50 to 250 °C&lt;/a&gt; due to it's PTFE sleeve. Removing said sleeve allows to use it for a larger temperature area, but that is not listed.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The wiring might be damaged. If the wires to the Thermosensor are kinked and effectively thinner, they might add extra resistance. This would be detectable by measuring the leads to the resistor - they should in best case have close to &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$0\ \Omega$&lt;/span&gt; resistance. As the wiring is the most stressed part usually, and the wire bundles are often packed well enough to not show up too much even if some strands are broken, such should show up only in the very last stages before a total failure.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The board might not measure correctly, for two reasons: either it might look at the wrong reference table as you might have swapped to a different type of thermosensor in a repair, or it might use the wrong (too little/too much) potential difference U to obtain it's measurement I and thus look in the wrong row of the table. For this, there is a fix available in the firmware by &lt;a href=&quot;https://e3d-online.dozuki.com/Guide/V6+Marlin+Configuration&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;swapping to the correct temperature&lt;/a&gt; table or &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:103668&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;calibrating your own&lt;/a&gt; one for your off-standard voltage. The latter is a highly involved process and needs you to measure against a known temperature repeatedly.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sub&gt;I am not affiliated with e3D; they are merely one of the best-documented stores for replacement parts I know about, which is why I consulted their catalog.&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2020-08-19T18:12:16.553" LastActivityDate="2020-08-19T18:12:16.553" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14274" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14264" CreationDate="2020-08-18T14:47:20.837" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Adding my 2 cents...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In practice thermistors hard fail. They do not &amp;quot;drift&amp;quot; fast enough for an application to notice. What's most likely happening (assuming that the problem is the temp) is that the reference voltage that is being used to determine the resistance of the thermistor could be faulty. As a simple test, you should get a basic thermometer to measure the temperature of the room. Then check it against the printer when it is sitting idle. If the 2 temps differ by more than 1 degree, then something is wrong. Check if the bed and nozzle thermistors are reading the same value (again to within 1 degree). If they are not, then swap the leads and see if if you get the same problem (with the printer idle of course).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have access to a multimeter, then measure the resistance of the thermistor, and then look up what the resistance should be at a certain temp (there are tables for this on the internet).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12857" LastActivityDate="2020-08-18T14:47:20.837" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14275" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14276" CreationDate="2020-08-18T15:07:28.153" Score="1" ViewCount="147" Body="&lt;p&gt;After a resin print completes, what is the expected process to finish the print? Is some cleaning expected? I also some manufacturers sell UV chambers to cure the print surface, is this required?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I purchased a low-cost printer from China that is quite high-quality hardware, but sadly short on documentation. Insight on the proper post-print process is appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2493" LastActivityDate="2020-08-18T17:45:49.660" Title="Curing a resin print" Tags="|resin|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14276" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14275" CreationDate="2020-08-18T15:17:32.703" Score="1" Body="&lt;h1&gt;Yes&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You need to do a two-step post-processing:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Washing&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is basically as easy as taking the print and dropping it into a vat of Isopropyl alcohol and vigorously shaking it to get all the liquid resin off. Careful, the resulting contaminated IPA is to be treated as &lt;strong&gt;toxic waste&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason why you wash the print is to make sure no resin stays on it and cures, distorting the print or altering the measurements.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Post-Print-curing&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The next step is just having the item sit in UV light to cure thoroughly, which means either having it sit outside in sunlight or under a UV lamp. Under sunlight, it might take a few hours, under a UV lamp, it depends on how thick the object is and you might need to turn and rotate the printed part. Note that some resins, especially transparent ones, can change their coloration when exposed to sunlight, both during or after curing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Curing is done to ensure all the resin is fully cured and get the full stiffness out of the print - sometimes prints are still somewhat malleable before giving them time to cure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2020-08-18T15:58:35.367" LastActivityDate="2020-08-18T15:58:35.367" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14277" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-08-18T16:26:28.867" Score="0" ViewCount="1946" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am trying to fix the very last error on my printer (custom built).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Error:Printer halted. kill() called!&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This error occures about 5-10 minutes into a print (XYZ Cube) and usually after finishing the second layer.&#xA;All temperatures are working as far as I can tell: heats up fine (if a little slow) and all sensors are working; 50 °C bed, 190 °C hotend, all axis are moving, homing and stepping fine and I haven't noticed any overheating issues on the steppers themselves. I have the SD card plugged into the screen rather than the mainboard as it had difficulty reading from the mainboard when I first tested it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After this happens I can no longer move any axis from the interface and have to run a power cycle to get control back.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Parts:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;BTT SKR 1.3 (Marlin 2.0, TMC2209 drivers UART)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;TFT35 3.0 (Latest firmware)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;NC X/Y endstop switches&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Inductive Z Probe (generic blue square one)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Dual Z steppers&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;J-Head v6 hotend&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Notes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I dont have much knowlage of Marlin firmware, so please be descriptive if I am missing something in the firmware (e.g. &amp;quot;edit &lt;code&gt;//#define DUAL_Z_STEPPERS&lt;/code&gt; in &lt;code&gt;Marlin/Configuration_adv.h&lt;/code&gt;&amp;quot; to define the use of dual Z steppers by altering the line to &lt;code&gt;#define DUAL_Z_STEPPERS&lt;/code&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's not possible to plug my printer into a computer, it's over 5 m away, my laptop is broken and I haven't set up my Raspberry Pi yet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do not know how to set up SD card logging if that is even a posibility.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23303" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-08-18T17:44:34.767" LastActivityDate="2020-08-18T17:44:34.767" Title="Error:Printer halted. kill() called! SKR 1.3 TFT35 3.0" Tags="|marlin|troubleshooting|skr-v1.3|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14278" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14275" CreationDate="2020-08-18T16:59:06.050" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You don't really need a UV curing chamber but wash it with 99 % isopropyl alcohol&#xA;and put it in bright sun, this should do the trick!!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23221" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-08-18T17:45:49.660" LastActivityDate="2020-08-18T17:45:49.660" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14279" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-08-19T07:10:50.667" Score="1" ViewCount="554" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm fairly new to 3D printing and I have a Monoprice Ultimate 2. The Monoprice website says it can reach 250 °C with a 100 °C bed temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to print some projects using Matterhacks Nylonx, its recommended printing temperature is 250 °C to 265 °C.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Could I print it on the stock max setting of 250 °C or will it not adhere correctly?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Can I increase the print temperature by replacing the hotend with an E3D hotend?&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If so how hot could I get the hotend and how would I go about doing that?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is not many resources about Monoprice products.  Any help is greatly appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23308" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-08-19T11:50:23.310" LastActivityDate="2020-09-18T19:04:10.437" Title="Increase hotend temperature on Monoprice Ultimate 2" Tags="|hotend|replacement-parts|monoprice-maker-ultimate|nylon|carbon|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14280" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14282" CreationDate="2020-08-19T09:15:30.170" Score="2" ViewCount="1425" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm pretty new in the 3D printing world, and there are some doubts that have come my way and I've not been able to find anywhere.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Usually, I'm going to try to print pieces bigger than the bed of my Elegoo Mars Pro (which is 115 x 65 x 150 mm, so it's pretty small). Everywhere I try to look at this they are talking about Fused Filament Fabrication (FFF) printers, and I guess that material will make the answer to these questions to be different, that's why I'm asking here. &lt;strong&gt;All of these questions are focused on SLA printers.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Is there any kind of technique / slicer software to be able to print those pieces by parts?&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've read about slicers, but there seem to be a bunch of them, and some of them work best with some printers than others, and have different features but I haven't seen any that helps in this matter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, I've seen the typical plane cut, but this doesn't make it easy later on to &amp;quot;fit&amp;quot; pieces. I would need some kind of female - male joint. Is there any (free) slicer that helps in that, and makes those joints to be accurate and solid?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I removed the &amp;quot;shrink size&amp;quot; part in the question and published it &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/14283/curated-resin-size-shrink-and-methods-to-reduce-it&quot;&gt;as a separate question&lt;/a&gt;. Also moved &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/14284/sla-resin-post-processing-gluing-parts-together&quot;&gt;to a different question&lt;/a&gt; &amp;quot;gluing separate pieces&amp;quot; part.*&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23311" LastEditorUserId="23311" LastEditDate="2020-08-19T12:08:28.920" LastActivityDate="2021-06-26T14:15:38.160" Title="Printing and slicing big pieces with Elegoo Mars (Pro)" Tags="|3d-models|slicing|sla|elegoo-mars|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14281" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14279" CreationDate="2020-08-19T09:26:32.903" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ok, first of all you need to understand why the limit is given at 250 °C: that's when the hotend design chosen by the Monoprice starts to destroy its PETG liner. To print hotter, you'd need an unlined hotend, which means you'd need a proper all metal hotend.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A proper all metal hodend is &lt;strong&gt;a tradeoff&lt;/strong&gt;, not an upgrade: you sacrifice some ease of printing and risk some clogs in the lower temperature band for being able to print higher temperatures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you want to buy an e3D hotend, you should go for a genuine one, as many clones are actually not all metal. Also note, that there are other all-metal hotends around.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you get an e3D v6, you should make sure to buy the right variant for your machine! Monoprice tells us, that this is a &lt;strong&gt;24 V&lt;/strong&gt; Machine, so you'll need to get the 24 V Variant! As you also will swap the temperature sensor, you might need to update your firmware according to the &lt;a href=&quot;https://e3d-online.dozuki.com/Guide/V6+Assembly/6?lang=en&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;e3D installation manual&lt;/a&gt;. Since a genuine hotend comes with all the cabling and a new thermosensor, you'll need to rewire the whole machine - and you might need to make new fittings before installing. The &lt;a href=&quot;https://e3d-online.com/collections/printer-parts-electrical/products/thermistor-cartridge&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;em&gt;standard&lt;/em&gt; e3D Thermistor&lt;/a&gt; that comes with the hotend is good up to 285 °C, which will be your new ceiling temperature. Take careful note of these two parts that appear in the before assembly notes section of the manual:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The standard V6 is capable of printing up to 285°C, &lt;strong&gt;do not exceed these temperatures unless you have replaced the Thermistor cartridge with a PT100&lt;/strong&gt;, the Aluminium heater block with a Plated copper heater block, and the Brass nozzle for a Plated copper, Hardened steel or Nozzle X.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://e3d-online.dozuki.com/Guide/V6+Assembly/6?lang=en#s86&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Firmware modification&lt;/a&gt; is not optional it is a mandatory step.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2020-08-19T18:14:47.213" LastActivityDate="2020-08-19T18:14:47.213" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14282" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14280" CreationDate="2020-08-19T09:55:17.567" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;With so many questions, I'll provide a suggestion for your first one, the alignment option. There's a 12 minute &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ega__dzGXqM&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;YouTube video&lt;/a&gt; showing how to use Meshmixer (free, multi-platform) to create alignment pins and holes while segmenting a model for printing large items.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8gcwi.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8gcwi.png&quot; alt=&quot;Meshmixer screen capture&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The process involves making the cut, keeping both sections. A pin is created and sized, then placed in one of the faces, while the other segment visibility is turned off. The pin is then triplicated, with one pin moved away for printing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of the two remaining pins (overlapped) is selected and is used for a Boolean subtract operation, creating a hole that is matching in size and location.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first segment visibility is turned off, the second segment is turned on and the pin is selected again. The sequence is duplicated, creating a second, matching hole.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I didn't watch the entire video, but if it is not suggested, one should reduce the third pin size, at least the diameter, sufficiently to allow it to fit the holes created by the above process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that the video has some inconsistencies from my experience. Some terms are changed from the video to the program, but should not cause problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastActivityDate="2020-08-19T09:55:17.567" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14283" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-08-19T11:25:11.097" Score="2" ViewCount="2079" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've recently purchased an Elegoo Mars Pro 3D printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've read about that percentage of resin shapes going smaller and I understand that. But are slicers (or software which help with the joints) already taking that into consideration? Resines vary, and with them that percentage varies too, so is the software applying that error margin or am I the one responsible on this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, is that shrink percentage constant? Like everytime I print 5 mm it will shrink to 4.7 mm, or it depends on how is curated and other random values so it could be one 4.6 mm and the next printed shape to be 4.8 mm?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It depends on the curation process, or the printing process? If I print 2 separated parts alltogether in one single print session, both will have the same shrinkage, or it will depend on the curation process of each of them individually?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;If it's not constant...&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I ensure that all parts printed separately will fit together when joined later on and it won't create a sort of Frankenstein figure where nothing fits? Is there any process to reduce that shrinking to a minimum, even if it takes longer for each shape to cure?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not referring to &amp;quot;clipping parts&amp;quot;, but edges and so. If I join two separate parts together, and one of them is smaller than the other because of the shrink of the resin, then the edges won't fit and won't be a clean join.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23311" LastEditorUserId="23311" LastEditDate="2020-08-20T06:50:57.387" LastActivityDate="2020-08-20T06:50:57.387" Title="Curated resin size shrink (and methods to reduce it)" Tags="|post-processing|sla|resin|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14284" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14290" CreationDate="2020-08-19T12:06:53.827" Score="3" ViewCount="15881" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've recently purchased an Elegoo Mars Pro 3d printer, and I was wondering when printing large pieces that need to be printed in different steps: is there some kind of post-processing to make it more suitable for gluing them?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know of joints and so on, but sometimes pieces are big but not thick enough to be able to put a joint somewhere, so I guess the only solution would be to glue them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I use some kind of specific glue to get better results with resins? Is there any process (post-processing, reducing layer height when printing, leave the resin being curated more time...) to improve the sticking of the different parts? Or can we go with any kind of &amp;quot;strong multisurface glue&amp;quot; without any further post-processing steps, and the results should be the same in matters of quality?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23311" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2020-08-19T18:33:25.433" LastActivityDate="2020-11-23T14:39:11.927" Title="SLA resin post-processing: gluing parts together" Tags="|post-processing|sla|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14285" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-08-19T15:18:52.323" Score="2" ViewCount="1656" Body="&lt;p&gt;It has been a long journey failing and printing over and over to be able to print at faster speeds. All I did mostly was trial and error. I am currently trying to wrap my head around a problem that has been asked by user:1998 (&lt;a href=&quot;http://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/1998/mhelvens&quot;&gt;mhelvens&lt;/a&gt;): &lt;em&gt;Can we manage to make a uniform formula for printing very fast with high temperatures?&lt;/em&gt; (&lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/q/3350/4762&quot;&gt;Increasing hotend temperature to compensate for increased filament throughput&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using Ender 3, Hero Me Gen5 with E3D V6 volcano, mdd kit 1.2, Klipper firmware&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I start printing at 215 °C (recommended temperature for my filament) everything is alright, because of initial layer speed...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I come to 100 mm/s the print clearly fails, the plastic doesn't stick, it even swirls up and is just too solid and then it damages the nozzle when it bumps in to it...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I start at high temperature, the print is failing at the start and then doing ok, which is equally as bad&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I have high temperature and high speed the print wont stick at the beginning...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The solution in my opinion is to gradually increase speed with temperature, adding that as a function of the firmware. Also probably involving filament flow % and pressure_advance...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a formula for what I'm asking?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can we implement it in the software or does this have to be done through trial and error all the goddamn time?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23315" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2020-08-19T15:41:32.260" LastActivityDate="2020-08-19T16:03:39.700" Title="How to improve printing over 100 mm/s with 0.8 mm nozzle?" Tags="|print-quality|creality-ender-3|firmware|speed|e3d-volcano|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14286" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14285" CreationDate="2020-08-19T16:03:39.700" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are no ready solutions. Check on Klipper Github to see if someone requested that, but I doubt it has been implemented.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;100 mm/s with 0.8 line width and something like 0.3 mm layer height results in 24 mm^3/s. It's quite high already, since the Volcano is rated at about 20 mm^3/s.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What you could try to do is to take the GCODE you have, calculate the layer time and the total path length for each layer to get the average extrusion rate, and introduce at the beginning of each layer a M104 command with a temperature dependent on said rate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, you could add 1 °C for each mm^3/s of extrusion rate starting at 15 mm^3/s.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want, you could also calculate the average extrusion rate not every layer but every 50 mm of extrusion. In this case, better anticipate the temperature command by one stretch, since it takes time to adapt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Otherwise you need a Supervolcano, or a slight overvoltage of the hotend (remember that power goes with the square of voltage, so do not go above 10% overvoltage).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2338" LastActivityDate="2020-08-19T16:03:39.700" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14288" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14283" CreationDate="2020-08-19T17:21:13.650" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Generally, this behavior isn't well reearched as of this moment, and it would be dependant on your specific resin. While I can't tell you if your resin is affected by shrink or even uneven shrink, I can give you the method of how to investigate:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Download or design a cube with a well-known dimension. I'd suggest a cube of 20 mm side length. It's best to indent the orientation onto the surfaces. One such model would be &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3090144&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;thing 3090144&lt;/a&gt;, which has a version that is hollow and has a hole to let out resin, but there are others.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Align the X, Y and Z with the letter into the positive side of the axis in your slicer.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Print.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;After Printing, clean and cure&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Only after curing, measure the X and Y and Z dimensions with calipers.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Calculate shrinkage: Measurement divided by 20 gets you the shrinkage or expansion, multiply by 100 for percent.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastActivityDate="2020-08-19T17:21:13.650" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14289" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14284" CreationDate="2020-08-19T17:30:03.767" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can definitely use glue - however you can also brush some of the liquid resin along the edges of the two pieces, push them together and cure them, this will fuse them together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You don't need much, and you need to watch for drip out while curing (don't your fingers in it)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23300" LastActivityDate="2020-08-19T17:30:03.767" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14290" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14284" CreationDate="2020-08-19T17:30:53.600" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;As I learned after &lt;a href=&quot;https://chemistry.stackexchange.com/questions/138945/polymerisation-of-a-uv-curing-resin&quot;&gt;asking about the chemistry of a 3D printing Resin&lt;/a&gt;, the material uses radical polymerisation to get a well connected, branched copolymer. It is comparable to resin cast material but more brittle. So let's look, &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6723/what-glues-for-pla&quot;&gt;akin to the PLA-gluing question&lt;/a&gt;, what we can do!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Step 0: Safety First!&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some of these methods are working with chemicals that can irritate the skin (resins, cyanoacrylate) or have irritating or flamagle fumes (heated cyanoacrylate).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Use proper protection&lt;/strong&gt; when working with these! Eye protection and respiratory protection, as well as gloves, are to be used when necessary. Read the manual of the products you are working with!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Preparations&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For most glues, it is advisable to prepare the surface: very lightly sand it to increase the surface area, don't touch the prints with bare hands to prevent fingerprints etc. Follow the manual!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Glues&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a result of the chemistry I would suggest the following glues:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The resin itself! Carefully applying a thin layer of the printing resin onto the cured parts and then pressing the parts together before letting it cure again will get you a good bond that might not even be visible as you have exactly the same material. Note though, that you might be able to assemble the part between washing and curing for absolute minimal visibility of the gluing surface and maximum bonding. Also note, that for a non-transparent resin (fully opaque to 400 nm light) you'd better look for a different gluing system, as the bond will be much weaker if it can harden only at the edge.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cyanoacrylate, aka Superglue. This glue is pretty much a one-serves-all, though it might cloud your surface. Also, not all superglues are the same, and some might work better than others or store differently.&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Together with talcum powder, CA glue can fill gaps easily.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;CA is not stable under heating and when heated too much, if breaks apart into a rather noxious fume!&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2-phase epoxy or &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.adhesives.org/adhesives-sealants/adhesives-sealants-overview/adhesive-technologies/chemically-curing/two-component-(2-c)/urethane-adhesives&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;polyurethane&lt;/a&gt;. Another &lt;em&gt;glues everything&lt;/em&gt; category, that should work rather well. The epoxy bonds are harder, the polyurethane ones are a little more flexible, but both bond very well with cured resin. As resin prints don't really deform under heat, you might take even faster-curing types.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2-phase Putty - in a similar vein come 2-phase putties like &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.games-workshop.com/en-FI/Green-Stuff&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Green Stuff&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.milliput.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Miliputt&lt;/a&gt;, which harden after mixing. Their heat generation isn't too big and they allow to fill gaps easily. My favorite stuff though is not the expensive modeling putty but the stuff from the home depot: stuff like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.pattex.de/do-it-yourself-mit-pattex-klebstoffe-produkte-new/pattex-klebstoffe/reparaturkleber/repair-express.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Pattex Repair&lt;/a&gt;&lt;sup&gt;sorry, no English site for this&lt;/sup&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.uhu.com/en/products/epoxy-adhesives-2-component/detail/uhu-repair-all-powerkitt-1.html?cHash=e0f929a3ec974e591e89c5e1987a30ab&amp;amp;step=70&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;UHU Repair All Powerkitt&lt;/a&gt; harden within an hour, are surprisingly cheap and get a smooth surface.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Other methods?&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unlike PLA, we can &lt;strong&gt;not&lt;/strong&gt; use thermic methods to add inserts, friction-weld or weld/solder two parts together as &lt;strong&gt;Resin prints are generally not thermoplastic.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2020-08-19T20:51:17.127" LastActivityDate="2020-08-19T20:51:17.127" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14291" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14292" CreationDate="2020-08-19T21:00:18.697" Score="1" ViewCount="366" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've purchased an Elegoo Mars Pro recently, and I've been watching hundreds of video of all kind of processes, and everyone tells the same: resin is toxic, so you should cure it before throwing it to the trash, otherwise it must be treated as toxic waste.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I've not been able to find anything with &amp;quot;things that are contaminated with it&amp;quot;. For example, if I touch with some paper the resin, I guess that I should let it cure in the sun (like putting it in a plastic box and let it cure, maybe?).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But how about the IPA? &lt;strong&gt;How do I treat the rests of IPA contaminated with uncured resin?&lt;/strong&gt; I don't think leaving something flammable into the sunlight during some hours is the best I can do (maybe I'm wrong and it's totally safe?).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, are resins water-washable (&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.amazon.es/ELEGOO-Impresora-Fotopol%C3%ADmero-Est%C3%A1ndar-Impresi%C3%B3n/dp/B07XPM32JR/ref=pd_lpo_328_t_1/259-8458092-2588217?_encoding=UTF8&amp;amp;pd_rd_i=B07XPM32JR&amp;amp;pd_rd_r=bbbafdaf-a07e-488f-92f1-31526c498665&amp;amp;pd_rd_w=FJMai&amp;amp;pd_rd_wg=JqCiC&amp;amp;pf_rd_p=4221015a-01c7-4a3d-a84d-985d938e9995&amp;amp;pf_rd_r=J73FX4T2KBPWQAP6MPFX&amp;amp;refRID=J73FX4T2KBPWQAP6MPFX&amp;amp;th=1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;like this one from Elegoo&lt;/a&gt;) as toxic as the rest? &lt;strong&gt;Can I wash them in the faucet&lt;/strong&gt;, or should I use a plastic recipient with just water and wash them there? What do I do with it once I finish? May I throw it into the bath, or let it cure into the sunlight, or...?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps me and some others to treat resin disposals as they should be! Thank you!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23311" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2020-08-19T22:47:10.090" LastActivityDate="2020-08-20T10:03:51.173" Title="SLA printers: safety with resin contaminated disposals" Tags="|post-processing|resin|safety|cleaning|disposal|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14292" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14291" CreationDate="2020-08-19T23:07:45.967" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The IPA with the resin in it is a chemical waste and toxic to nature. As such, it needs to be given to a chemical waste handler. But those handlers do charge by volume, so you need to find a way to handle volumes reasonably. On the one hand, this means to not use huge volumes for washing the prints but reasonably small batches, and on the other hand to try to saturate them as much as possible before giving them to disposal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is not safe to leave the IPA in the sun or close to a source of flame, and it would certainly be not a good idea to try to torch the IPA to try to reduce the volume, but you might manage to try to concentrate the toxic waste if you might have access to a vacuum distillation apparatus - the IPA would be able to be distilled over to be reused while the original material would end concentrated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the moment I am waiting for an MSDS of eSun's Water-Washable resin, but the &lt;a href=&quot;https://elegoo.com/tutorial/ELEGOO%20Water%20Washable%20Resin%20MSDS%20Report%20by%20SGS.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Eleegoo one&lt;/a&gt; is available, and it reads that it is classed as &amp;quot;Aquatic Chronic Class 2&amp;quot; - that's better than the Class 4 which IPA-washing resins have, but it is still not Sewer-safe: &lt;code&gt;Do not allow product to reach sewage system or any water source&lt;/code&gt;. However, water is much less of a dangerous base for the waste than IPA, making it easier to handle. This mixture too needs to go to a chemical waste handler or be made inert but the waste also can be concentrated with less danger than IPA using a similar apparatus (cold distilling out water) or even a dedicated waste cookpot/evaporation vat that is exposed to heat - though you clearly should do this in a chemical-grade air filtration unit to mitigate the chance of resin fumes escaping into the atmosphere or your work environment if you heat it more than some. The dissolved resin might not be able to cure anymore as the photoinitiator might be used up during it evaporating.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2020-08-20T10:03:51.173" LastActivityDate="2020-08-20T10:03:51.173" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14294" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14300" CreationDate="2020-08-20T06:47:28.257" Score="4" ViewCount="12723" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've actually read that resin printed parts are not food-safe in &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/comments/7h834s/how_safe_is_cured_sla_resin_for_indirect_food/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Reddit&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;https://formlabs.com/blog/guide-to-food-safe-3d-printing/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Formlabs guide&lt;/a&gt;. However, it also says that &lt;strong&gt;food-safe can be achieved applying some kind of food-safe coat&lt;/strong&gt; to the printed parts, or even &lt;strong&gt;printing with ceramic resin&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As an owner of a Elegoo Mars Pro, I've searched for the second - &lt;strong&gt;ceramic resin - and I've found nothing&lt;/strong&gt;, so I guess it's only suited for more expensive and professional printers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But regarding the food-safe coatings, is there any recommendation on &lt;strong&gt;which and how to apply them&lt;/strong&gt; for resin printed objects? Is there any other way to achieve food-safe resin printed parts? Maybe are there food-safe resins, even though they may be more expensive (I haven't been able to find any)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The scenarios I think that have to be considered are four:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Prints to be used for &lt;strong&gt;liquids&lt;/strong&gt;: like mugs and coffee cups, or recipients to hold drinks in the fridge, for example.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Prints to be used for &lt;strong&gt;solids&lt;/strong&gt;: just recipients to put dried fruits, nuts, olives...&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Prints to be used while eating, which some &lt;strong&gt;tools&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;strong&gt;may interact&lt;/strong&gt; with: plates, bowls, which will be in contact with knifes, forks, and some other material that could scratch it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Prints to be &lt;strong&gt;in contact with the mouth&lt;/strong&gt;: this would be maybe a mix of the other, but would include forks, spoons, mugs...&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I guess that the cleaning and maintenance will depend on the process to make them food-safe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've been searching for the net, and I've found these kind of epoxy resins. I see people use them and say it's food-safe, but I cannot see it stated anywhere. Maybe are those what I'm looking for? Maybe not because some of them are for wood (maybe they can be used in other suraces, too?)? Some samples:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.amazon.es/disponibles-Fantasy-TRANSPARENTE-perfecto-bicomponente/dp/B07L78WZ9Z/ref=sr_1_3?__mk_es_ES=%C3%85M%C3%85%C5%BD%C3%95%C3%91&amp;amp;dchild=1&amp;amp;keywords=resina%20epoxi%20comida&amp;amp;qid=1598011018&amp;amp;s=tools&amp;amp;sr=1-3&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Fantasy craft&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.artresin.com/pages/artresin-europe&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Art Resin&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.amazon.es/componentes-Cristal-Transparente-laminar-adhesivo/dp/B07S2WDMNB/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?__mk_es_ES=%C3%85M%C3%85%C5%BD%C3%95%C3%91&amp;amp;dchild=1&amp;amp;keywords=resina%20epoxi%20comida&amp;amp;qid=1598011018&amp;amp;s=tools&amp;amp;sr=1-1-spons&amp;amp;psc=1&amp;amp;spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUExUUc0WFpFUVlRQlE1JmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwMDMyNTUwMjRHUDJGTEE3NUFXWCZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwNzc1MzEyMk82TUpWU00yS1JRWiZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2F0ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Dipoxy resin&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope to find a little bit of knowledge to increase safety when printing some parts and being careful about the different applications that our prints may have.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23311" LastEditorUserId="23311" LastEditDate="2020-08-21T12:04:22.120" LastActivityDate="2020-08-21T18:33:36.510" Title="SLA printers: food-safe resin parts" Tags="|sla|safety|resin|food|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14295" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14411" CreationDate="2020-08-20T15:21:07.623" Score="2" ViewCount="335" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've recently noticed that the pulley driving the X-axis belt on my Anet A8 is wobbling quite a lot. I took out my calipers and sure enough the hole wasn't centred. I ordered a new pulley (from a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.banggood.com/Anet-GT2-Pulley-16-Teeth-Bore-5MM-Timing-Gear-Alumium-For-GT2-Belt-Width-6MM-3D-Printer-Accessories-p-1036136.html?rmmds=myorder&amp;amp;cur_warehouse=CN&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;different manufacturer&lt;/a&gt;) which arrived today but it was also wobbling, though much less than my old one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The X-axis motor does not appear to wobble at all, I've tried placing a straight object up against the shaft and ran the motor and could not perceive and wobble at all in the motor, so I know it's not the motor. Before I start ordering more of the same part I wanted to see if anyone else has had this problem or if I'm doing something else wrong (for example if the uncentered pulley is a feature and there's some magical way to mount the belt pulley onto the motor to make sure it does not wobble). My guess is that I've just ordered cheap scrap parts and need to order something more expensive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a link to a video of the wobble: &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hkyxN.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hkyxN.jpg&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19381" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2020-09-10T13:46:54.097" LastActivityDate="2020-09-10T15:08:58.413" Title="Anet A8 X axis drive-gear wobble" Tags="|troubleshooting|anet-a8|x-axis|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="12" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14296" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-08-20T15:47:13.933" Score="3" ViewCount="2485" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was recommended to buy a &lt;strong&gt;pancake stepper motor&lt;/strong&gt; for a &lt;strong&gt;direct drive BMG extruder&lt;/strong&gt;, however I would like to ask if the decrease in torque would still be enough to &lt;strong&gt;work with V6 Volcano or SuperVolcano&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If so, should I buy this pancake stepper motor and how should I configure my current setting when switching them?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23315" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-09-15T17:23:45.953" LastActivityDate="2022-10-10T20:02:30.443" Title="What's the best stepper motor for BMG with very high extrusion rates?" Tags="|extruder|stepper-driver|e3d-v6|e3d-volcano|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14298" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10238" CreationDate="2020-08-21T05:44:13.287" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a similar machine and you won't find a Linux software to control it. You won't find a Windows software either, except the one shipped with the machine. I sniffed the traffic on the USB port and the control is proprietary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The good news is the included software runs on Wine, but I did not get to serve the COM-port to the program. Under Windows, the driver fixes the port to &lt;code&gt;COM4:&lt;/code&gt; but I did not find out what the exact name is (capitals or : or other parts) that the program expects to symbolicly link the port to &lt;code&gt;/dev/ttyUSB0&lt;/code&gt;. You might have better luck. When sym-linking the port doesn't forget the permissions, that's another trap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23330" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-08-21T06:38:40.680" LastActivityDate="2020-08-21T06:38:40.680" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14299" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14296" CreationDate="2020-08-21T08:20:30.840" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A BMG extruder can be used in conjunction with the E3Dv6 hotend, the Volcano and the Super Volcano are upgrade parts for the E3Dv6 (see e3d-online), they are just differently sized heater blocks you can use to replace the normal heater block to increase the volumetric flow. In fact, it is just a v6 with a different heater block (and heater cartridge, longer nozzle threading, and often and a larger nozzle diameter). The increased heater blocks will allow for an enlarged melting zone. Although this increased melting zone, the extra length of walls will not significantly increase the resistance, most resistance comes from compressing the filament diameter to the nozzle diameter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that the BMG is a similar direct extruder type as the Titan, which is produced and sold by E3D; this extruder is capable of using the Volcano upgrades using their standard pancake stepper motor (according to E3D website). You can buy these stepper motors at their website. The reason a pancake stepper is recommended is because of weight reduction (direct drive extruders carry the extruder stepper on the X-axis carriage), these extruder types gear down the speed and thus increasing the torque, a normal stepper would be too heavy and too powerful. Note that this may be a different case for 2.85 mm filament; this requires more torque anyways.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2020-08-21T10:54:21.530" LastActivityDate="2020-08-21T10:54:21.530" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14300" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14294" CreationDate="2020-08-21T13:00:28.077" Score="3" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Resin basics&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Resins are tricky, but probably &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/6941/8884&quot;&gt;less tricky than FDM&lt;/a&gt; as the manufacturing process is much less likely to include contaminants in the shape of contaminated air, particles, or adding lead into the print. This is all due to the whole process of creating the polymer happening under the protection of the resin, which in its monomeric liquid state is so toxic that it is unlikely any bacteria can survive in it. But before going out on a spending spree, you need to be aware that there are basically 3 kinds of resins on the market, only one of them is for SLA. To know exactly what you get you'd need to read the MSDS, which is usually available by the manufacturer of the resin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Two-component resins as you found in the lower half of the question. You might know them as Epoxy or Polyurethane resins. They have a base material and a hardener, sometimes called Component A and B. If mixed &lt;em&gt;perfectly&lt;/em&gt;, they cure fully, neither hardener nor resin remains. This means it is chemically inert.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Air-curing resins. These two come as Polyurethanes and also Acrylates and you might know them better under the terms paint, lacquer or coating.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Light-cured resins, as you find them in SLA resins and all coatings that are not air-curing. These are for SLA a strange chemical mixture of a photoinitiator and then some monomers that create a copolymer while coatings can be as easy as having some initiators and the rest is a single type of monomer.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Food safety?&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are some resins is on &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.accessdata.fda.gov/scripts/cdrh/cfdocs/cfcfr/CFRSearch.cfm?CFRPart=177&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;the list of FDA approved plastics&lt;/a&gt; for food contact. The list is exclusive: if your plastic doesn't fit one of the listed ones, you can not use it. One example would be &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.accessdata.fda.gov/scripts/cdrh/cfdocs/cfcfr/CFRSearch.cfm?fr=177.1555&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;polyacrylate&lt;/a&gt;, which is defined as being &amp;quot;formed by melt polycondensation of bisphenol-A with diphenylisophthalate and diphenylterephthalate&amp;quot; - which excludes any other method of getting a polyacrylate and it prescribes exactly what basic materials are allowed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a result, many two-component resins and light-cured resins that don't match the exact chemistry and method to create an approved plastic/coating will not match the FDA approval list and won't get approval &lt;em&gt;on their own&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Coating&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But there is often a way out by applying a proper coating, for example with a sufficiently thick food-grade &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.accessdata.fda.gov/scripts/cdrh/cfdocs/cfcfr/CFRSearch.cfm?fr=177.1680&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Polyurethane coating&lt;/a&gt; for dry foods. This would render the item &lt;em&gt;food safe&lt;/em&gt; under FDA standards for the approved appication. You'd need to adhere to the proper method to apply this coating (manufacturers add those to the labeling usually), which can at times be somewhat complicated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Insert&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another way might be to add an insert that does follow FDA standards, for example, a steel cup for liquids.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2020-08-21T18:33:36.510" LastActivityDate="2020-08-21T18:33:36.510" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14301" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14308" CreationDate="2020-08-21T17:11:25.637" Score="0" ViewCount="1057" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am a newbie to 3D printing and I am making a 3D printer from scratch (Cartesian). I've got a RAMPS 1.4 shield and an Arduino Mega 2560 board. I have a few questions and it would be very nice if I can get answers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The onboard MOSFET (STP55NFO6L) for the heatbed is dead and I think that the reason is because of the high resistance of my heat bed (1.8 Ω).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have searched a lot and I am fully confused about what to do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I am thinking of buying an external MOSFET and wire it up with the RAMPS fan MOSFET (STP55NF06L) and use the same heat bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Buy an external MOSFET and replace the onboard MOSFET (dead one) with the fan MOSFET (because of the underlying 11 A circuit) and use same heatbed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Same as 2., but buying a new heatbed also.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Buying a RAMPS 1.6 and use old heatbed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am totally confused because of lot of searching. Please anybody help me. What should I do?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20327" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-08-22T10:38:13.420" LastActivityDate="2020-08-23T09:44:09.313" Title="MOSFET burned and high heated bed resistance" Tags="|diy-3d-printer|heated-bed|ramps-1.4|arduino-mega-2650|mosfet|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14304" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-08-22T14:08:07.860" Score="1" ViewCount="100" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was surprised to learn that, AFAICT, neither Protolabs, Xometry, or Shapeways* can supply 3D printed parts from acrylic.  Is anyone aware of a commercial source of 3D printed parts made from acrylic [polymethylmethacrylate (PMMA)]?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*Shapeways does 3D print their &amp;quot;Fine Detail Plastic&amp;quot; which is an acrylic.  However, during the printing process, the material is UV cured so, AFAIK, it is no longer a thermoplastic (as PMMA is).  I need the thermoplastic property for my application.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7166" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2020-08-22T18:23:51.370" LastActivityDate="2021-05-24T00:08:28.307" Title="Is there any commercial supplier of 3D printed parts made from acrylic (PMMA)?" Tags="|print-material|services|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14305" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-08-23T08:06:32.423" Score="1" ViewCount="491" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an on-going project to build a large lampshade in the shape of a geodesic dome. It's made of 3D printed frames that will be covered with rice paper. I printed the parts in PLA over a month or so, but then had to ship them from Europe to Japan due to moving house.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately, when they arrived a lot of them had warped quite badly. In retrospect they weren't packed very well, and they probably got quite hot while travelling through the tropics in a shipping container.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm wondering if there is any reasonable way to un-warp parts that have warped in this way. Specifically, if I heat them up again, will they go back to their original shape, or will that just make it worse?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a photo to show what the parts look like. The problem was a lot more obvious before I assembled it, but I didn't think to take a photo - here you can see that some of the edges aren't dead straight, but when they're not clipped to the other parts they're a lot worse. The edge of each triangle is a bit less than 20cm in length.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xMmGY.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xMmGY.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd really appreciate any tips. It'd be a shame if this project ended up not looking perfect after so much printing time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="612" LastEditorUserId="612" LastEditDate="2020-08-23T08:17:47.547" LastActivityDate="2020-08-23T08:18:04.573" Title="Can parts that have warped (after being printed) be un-warped?" Tags="|pla|post-processing|warping|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14306" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14305" CreationDate="2020-08-23T08:18:04.573" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;PLA stays a thermoplastic in printed shape. And as you saw when unpacking your things, tropical heat and force are enough to get a lasting deformation. Other people had PLA prints ruined from having them sit in the car, I had seen deformation on a purple print I had let sit in the sun on an edge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This also means that the reverse is true: under load to shape the part and some heat you can try to unbend parts. A hairdryer air of about 60-80 °C, which is more than enough to make PLA formable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastActivityDate="2020-08-23T08:18:04.573" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14308" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14301" CreationDate="2020-08-23T09:44:09.313" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The resistance of the heated bed being &lt;em&gt;too high&lt;/em&gt; can not have caused the MOSFET to burn out. Only a &lt;em&gt;too low&lt;/em&gt; resistance could cause that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keep in mind that measuring relatively low resistances (such as the one of your heated bed) is difficult, and if you just used a regular multimeter it might indicate a wrong value (e.g. due to the resistance of the test leads or a poor connection between the probe and heated bed). Therefore, the actual resistance might be (slightly) lower.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A 1.8 Ω heated bed at 12 V will draw around 7 A of current. This is well within the capabilities of the MOSFET on board of the RAMPS. So either the resistance of the heated bed is lower than you measured (if the resistance was 1.2 Ω or lower this could cause the MOSFET to burn out), or you simply got unlucky with the quality of your RAMPS board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The (supposedly) high resistance definitely doesn't make the heated bed compatible with 24 V. Using a 1.8 Ω bed with 24 V would cause a 13 A current draw and 320 W of power. This is a lot more than is sensible for a 214 mm x 214 mm bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All of the alternatives 1 and 4 you have listed are reasonable options. There is no reason (option 3) to replace the heated bed as there is no indication it is faulty. I see no reason to take option 2 since it involves desoldering and resoldering the fan MOSFET for no reason (if you are using an external MOSFET the fuse is no longer a limitation). There is a chance you'll damage the MOSFET doing this and option 1 only requires a trivial firmware change.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Option 4 (upgrading to RAMPS 1.6) is purely a matter of personal preference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastActivityDate="2020-08-23T09:44:09.313" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14309" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11013" CreationDate="2020-08-23T09:58:31.707" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;SketchUp has a problem with generating the normals of an STL in the right way. As you see in the slicer, the model claims, that the &amp;quot;tops&amp;quot; are overhangs, which means that the whole model is &amp;quot;inside out&amp;quot; with the normals.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To fix that, you'd need to open the file in a program that can fix that by &lt;a href=&quot;https://all3dp.com/2/blender-recalculate-normals-simply-explained/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;recalculating the normals&lt;/a&gt;. I suggest blender:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Open Blender&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Delete the cube by clicking on it and pressing the &lt;code&gt;delete&lt;/code&gt; button&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Import the STL via Drag &amp;amp; Drop or the menu&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Change to edit mode in the top left corner&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;code&gt;A&lt;/code&gt; to select everything&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;code&gt;ALT&lt;/code&gt; + &lt;code&gt;N&lt;/code&gt; to recalculate normals&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;code&gt;N&lt;/code&gt; then under &lt;code&gt;Mesh Display &amp;gt; Normals&lt;/code&gt; hook &lt;code&gt;Faces&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, your model should look like a hedgehog, each face having a blue line poking out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It &lt;em&gt;also&lt;/em&gt; should show if there are any faces remaining, which can be selected and deleted manually by clicking it, so that only it is highlighted, and then pressing &lt;code&gt;delete&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2023-11-23T10:58:34.690" LastActivityDate="2023-11-23T10:58:34.690" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14310" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14312" CreationDate="2020-08-23T10:10:05.100" Score="3" ViewCount="700" Body="&lt;p&gt;The closest thing I can find is this &lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/wiki/A4988_vs_DRV8825_Chinese_Stepper_Driver_Boards#Mixing_A4988_and_DRV8825_stepper_drivers&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;wiki page&lt;/a&gt; that state DRV8825 and A4988 can be mixed. However, the TMCs seem different, requiring more connections and offer more features, so I wonder if they can be used on the same RAMPS board with A4988, particularly for X and Y axis.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23353" LastActivityDate="2020-08-26T06:16:04.847" Title="Can I mix TMC drivers with A4988 on the same RAMPS board?" Tags="|stepper-driver|ramps|tmc2130|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14311" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13501" CreationDate="2020-08-23T10:19:51.490" Score="1" Body="&lt;h1&gt;Yes, but...&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Technically, you can reuse your old heater block and nozzles and just buy a new heartbreak and cooling body or the other way around. However, you might run into problems under working conditions, especially if you install the heater block together with its native heating cartridge and thermosensor. Installing a thermosensor to which the printer is not adjusted to can lead to all kinds of problems - Firmware update is a must!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another source of trouble could stem from not taking care in the change itself. The Makerbot MK8 seals the hotend by pressing the liner against the nozzle, which itself is seated against the heartbreak, just like the e3D lite6 seals itself. On the other hand an all-metal e3D v6 seals itself by seating the heartbreak against the nozzle on a larger area. If the seal is imperfect, the Makerbot Mk8 style tends to leak out through the top. Such a leak can leave plastic in the threading which has to be removed carefully before reusing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastActivityDate="2020-08-23T10:19:51.490" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14312" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14310" CreationDate="2020-08-23T10:30:15.033" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes you can mix different drivers, including the TMC drivers (e.g. using for X and Y only).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How you do that is described in &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.instructables.com/id/Upgrading-RAMPS-14-With-TMC2130-Stepper-Drivers/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this instructable&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Please do note that, from observations, the 8-bit based Arduino boards and shields such as the RAMPS are becoming more or less obsolete; the 32-bit based controller boards are becoming mainstream. Such boards have a lot more potential in execution speed, memory and more available options for peripherals.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-08-26T06:16:04.847" LastActivityDate="2020-08-26T06:16:04.847" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14313" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-08-23T13:07:19.653" Score="0" ViewCount="116" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking for a filament that is strong, doesn't crack and doesn't break easily and is impact resistant. I'm currently using PLA and it's strong, but, I'm looking for something that doesn't snap or break when dropped.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23354" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2020-08-24T09:16:06.870" LastActivityDate="2020-08-24T09:16:06.870" Title="What is the strongest filament type?" Tags="|filament|filament-choice|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2020-08-27T09:55:33.737" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14315" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14313" CreationDate="2020-08-23T15:33:17.723" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;PEEK may well be the strongest filament out there (and it has other interesting properties to recommend it), but it is very difficult to print and requires a printer designed to operate at high temperatures. If you are still using PLA, your next port of call should be PETG. It is a lot stronger than PLA (although it will shatter if hit hard enough) and it is almost as easy to print. It also gives off hardly any fumes and it can be printed without an enclosure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3953" LastActivityDate="2020-08-23T15:33:17.723" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14316" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14313" CreationDate="2020-08-23T15:40:12.983" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;ABS is less brittle compared to PLA.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Strength and impact resistance are not the same.  For the same Volume and Shape, I get more tensile strength (can apply a larger force without breaking) from steel than rubber.  I can however pound the rubber with a hammer many more times than the steel before I break it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When it comes to impact (finite energy but potentially extremely large forces), general rule is: that which does not bend shall break.  Materials and shapes that can bend to help dissipate that energy will help against impact.  Outright strength, on the other hand, often is fairly rigid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I need both, I'll depend on a strength bearing part and a soft coating for impact.  Works for bony animals; works for parts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23357" LastActivityDate="2020-08-23T15:40:12.983" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14319" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14304" CreationDate="2020-08-24T14:30:53.510" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;While I don't know of PMMA as a standard offering, I do know that a lot of the smaller entities will gladly accommodate custom requirements for the right price and an understanding that results may be inferior to their tried and true.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My recommendation is to google &amp;quot;3D Printing Service&amp;quot; and find what's local.  Local will hopefully mean you don't have to wait for a shipment to review the quality.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23357" LastActivityDate="2020-08-24T14:30:53.510" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14320" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-08-24T20:24:32.377" Score="4" ViewCount="347" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there a G-code command for calling up the material preset?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know PLA is set with &lt;code&gt;M145 S0 H190 B40 F255&lt;/code&gt;: how do I activate &lt;code&gt;S0&lt;/code&gt;, but not from the LCD menu?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23373" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-08-24T20:50:14.513" LastActivityDate="2020-08-24T21:05:41.800" Title="G-code for activating material preset in Marlin" Tags="|marlin|g-code|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14321" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14320" CreationDate="2020-08-24T21:05:41.800" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;code&gt;M145&lt;/code&gt; G-code command sets the values for the materials for use by the LCD menu solely to preheat the bed and/or hotend and part fan cooling percentage. There is no code to lookup the values and execute to heat up material 1 (&lt;code&gt;S0&lt;/code&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2020-08-24T21:05:41.800" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14322" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14323" CreationDate="2020-08-24T21:43:23.013" Score="2" ViewCount="1122" Body="&lt;p&gt;When trying to print (using 215 °C for the hotend and 65 °C for the bed) there seems to be a clicking and filament stops extruding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After much work I have cleaned the nozzle and made sure there are no clogs in the machine. However the filament seems to not extrude. When I get the filament out, there are small cuts/marks on the filament. Please see the attached picture for a better view.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure if the marks are causing the issue or if there could be something else going on. Any suggestions on how to fix the extruder to push out filament? Everything was working normally until yesterday after I leveled the print bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VJT6c.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Filament with marks&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VJT6c.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Filament with marks&quot; title=&quot;Filament with marks&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23374" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-08-25T09:38:37.913" LastActivityDate="2020-08-27T15:30:44.863" Title="Clicking noise from the extruder and no filament coming out" Tags="|filament|extruder|monoprice-maker-select|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14323" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14322" CreationDate="2020-08-24T22:08:37.827" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a number of points missing, but I can offer a few suggestions. The re-leveling of the bed could have resulted in the bed now being in a position to block the nozzle. I have done exactly that in the past. A clean glass bed makes for a perfect clog.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The marks on the filament fit the description of a hobbed gear (extruder drive bolt) chewing into the filament, which would move only slightly from being blocked at the nozzle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally, filament temperature may be a factor, although it's difficult to determine with the information provided.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a test, consider to use the controls available to you to raise the nozzle/lower the bed. Bring the nozzle up to your normal filament temperature. Execute an extrusion of sufficient length to ensure that the filament will reach and exit the nozzle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this does not provide extrusion, raise the temperature five degrees C and make another attempt. It may be necessary to raise the temperature in steps more than one time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Use undamaged filament in these tests to ensure that the damage does not factor into the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastActivityDate="2020-08-24T22:08:37.827" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14324" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10238" CreationDate="2020-08-24T23:09:41.597" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just found &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/aquamorta/kkengraver&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://github.com/aquamorta/kkengraver&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This software is intended to be used with a KKMoon laser engraver (3000mW). It comes with ABSOLUTELY NO WARRANTY. It may or may not work with an other kind of laser engraver.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some good internet guy/girl reverse engineered the communications and dropped it into a nice Python script - web server included.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19602" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2020-08-25T02:35:11.053" LastActivityDate="2020-08-25T02:35:11.053" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14326" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-08-25T18:06:18.027" Score="2" ViewCount="305" Body="&lt;p&gt;In all the bigger prints I print on my Ender 5 with PETG I have problems with warping and raft detachment during printing. I have a glass bed and I'm using Ultimaker Cura 4.6.1 standard printing settings for PETG (Recently I had some success using 245 °C nozzle temperature and 80 °C build plate).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas how to reduce those problems?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23382" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-08-25T20:34:29.543" LastActivityDate="2022-08-13T15:07:00.673" Title="Problem printing bigger models in the Ender 5" Tags="|adhesion|heat-management|petg|warping|creality-ender-5|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14327" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14328" CreationDate="2020-08-27T07:11:30.620" Score="1" ViewCount="2366" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have purchased a Creality LD-002R resin printer. It is solid hardware, with a good experience and great value for the price, but it comes with very little documentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am looking at calibration procedure of the print surface. I have read in reference to other printers that it is customary to interpose a sheet of paper when leveling the print surface against the pane of glass. Is this applicable? Are there any other setup recommendations?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2493" LastActivityDate="2020-08-27T14:37:19.127" Title="Calibrating a resin printer" Tags="|resin|creality-ld-002r|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14328" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14327" CreationDate="2020-08-27T14:22:53.797" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;First of all a caveat:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Leveling an FDM printer&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;...is done differently than an SLA/DLP printer&#xA;When calibrating an &lt;strong&gt;FDM&lt;/strong&gt; printer, you align the bed with the X and Y axis, using a paper, metal shim or another tool (such as a feeler gauge) to make sure the plane that the nozzle moves in is &lt;em&gt;parallel&lt;/em&gt; to the bed as much as possible. The paper, shim and gauge all serve in making sure that the nozzle does not push &lt;em&gt;into&lt;/em&gt; the bed on the move and to be an easily measurable system. You need to do several measurements and repeat the process till the bed is level. This can take quite some time with paper or shims, which is why I use a feeler gauge in the micrometer area.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Leveling an SLA/DLP printer&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;when leveling an SLA/DLP (aka Resin) printer, you also want to align the bed, but you want to align it parallel to the &lt;strong&gt;screen&lt;/strong&gt;. The process is rather simple: mount the bed and loosen the retention mechanism, have the printer move down and press the bed against the screen surface. Some printers need to have the (preferably empty and clean) vat installed, others need you to remove it. Tighten the retention mechanism. Move the bed up, you are leveled. Only now comes the resin (and vat!) back. Some printers have their leveling mechanism separated from the mounting screw - that allows removing the bed for taking off the part and keep the leveling intact.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the case of the Creality ld-002r there's &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/JIY7_i1zvt8?t=44&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;a video Tutorial&lt;/a&gt;, the alignment screws are on the &lt;strong&gt;side&lt;/strong&gt; of the carriage. Remove your resin vat before leveling. Loosen only those side screw, keep the &lt;strong&gt;top&lt;/strong&gt; one fast!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason why I suggest to level against an empty vat is to make sure that on the one hand the resin doesn't go bad (it should be exposed to as little light as possible), you are exposed to the least resin fumes as possible and to make sure that no pieces are inside the vat when your printer firmly presses the bed against the screen - it could damage the screen or surface would there be chunks of former prints left in the vat! Also, you don't want to contaminate your tools with resin, which means you want to work on the fasteners with no resin in the vat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2020-08-27T14:37:19.127" LastActivityDate="2020-08-27T14:37:19.127" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14330" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13271" CreationDate="2020-08-28T07:45:10.037" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Only proper solution that's worked for me on the .stl level like this is manually deleting and patching the triangles in FreeCAD's Mesh Design.  It's usually time consuming, but there are 3d scans and the like that just cannot be modified correctly without fixing the mesh (either before or after the mod).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23407" LastActivityDate="2020-08-28T07:45:10.037" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14331" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14333" CreationDate="2020-08-28T11:36:16.800" Score="4" ViewCount="3012" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am currently trying to print a gear with the possibility to connect it to the shaft of a DC motor. The following picture best describes what the shaft of the motor looks like by showing the hole printed in the gear:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UNHn5.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UNHn5.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So far this works well for a short amount of time, however since the gear is connected to another gear that is from time to time exerting quite some resistance already after a few revolutions the shaft starts to wear out the material that is holding it and it turns without powering the gear, i.e. the printed part is not strong enough to withstand the torque of the motor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am wondering what the best way forward would be here. I see multiple options:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Design a different connection to the shaft, however I don't know of any&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Switch to a different material, I am currently using PLA, but I could also go for ABS or PETG if any of them would provide advantages. For PLA vs ABS I found some conflicting information which one is &amp;quot;harder&amp;quot;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Play with the parameters of the print. At the moment I am only using 3 wall layers, I wonder if increasing the number of wall layers would improve rigidity.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there other ideas? What could you recommend me to improve this connection?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20301" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2020-08-28T21:18:50.947" LastActivityDate="2020-08-28T21:18:50.947" Title="Design connection to motor shaft for printed gear" Tags="|3d-design|print-material|filament-choice|stability|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14332" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14331" CreationDate="2020-08-28T12:23:47.680" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;A good option would be to use a (set-)screw to press against the flat of the motor shaft, similar to how pulleys are mounted on stepper motors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastActivityDate="2020-08-28T12:23:47.680" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14333" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14331" CreationDate="2020-08-28T12:52:29.693" Score="7" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Design a different connection to the shaft, however I don't know of any&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Use a shaft/flange coupler to be fastened to your shaft and to your printed part.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Without knowing the length of the shaft, you could connect a flange/coupler to design this into your gear. This is a good solution if you have to transmit larger torques. See e.g. &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3296969&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;this pulley&lt;/a&gt; that incorporates that concept.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Shaft flange couplers can be connected to your printed part and to the flat part of the shaft.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Metal flange couplers are available in many sizes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TPne9.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TPne9.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A recess in the printed part houses the flange:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pka5O.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pka5O.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When assembled you can mount the pulley/gear onto the shaft, provided you have enough length on the shaft.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PNt6V.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PNt6V.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-08-28T13:25:03.693" LastActivityDate="2020-08-28T13:25:03.693" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14335" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14331" CreationDate="2020-08-28T20:26:28.120" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're thinking of changing materials, you're looking at the wrong parameters.  PLA has a higher hardness than either PETG or ABS, but hardness isn't what you want.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem you're experiencing is &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Creep_(deformation)&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;creep&lt;/a&gt;, where a material flows in response to pressure.  Of the common printing plastics, PLA is by far the most susceptible to creep.  Either ABS or PETG will be better in this regard, though unless you need ABS's strength, I'd recommend using PETG because it's easier to get dimensionally-correct prints.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, the contact area shown in your drawing is rather small.  You'd be much better off using a metal flange to spread the contact out over a larger area.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="48" LastActivityDate="2020-08-28T20:26:28.120" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14336" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14337" CreationDate="2020-08-28T22:52:07.143" Score="0" ViewCount="272" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does anybody know an exact difference between E3D High Precision Heater vs a standard one? I mean technical characteristics not only about its naming.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or maybe somebody has both of them and did some comparison?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23416" LastActivityDate="2020-08-29T09:18:59.620" Title="E3D High Precision Heater difference" Tags="|heat-management|e3d|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14337" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14336" CreationDate="2020-08-29T08:34:42.643" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;E3D themselves specify this on &lt;a href=&quot;https://e3d-online.com/products/high-precision-heater-cartridges&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;the product page&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Our high precision heater cartridges feature a rounder cartridge with more consistent diameter and surface quality, ensuring greater surface area contact with the heater block for more reliable heat transfer. With the quick change principle in mind, the high precision heater cartridge uses a Molex Microfit 3.0 connector enabling quick HotEnd changes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;E3D also provide a &lt;a href=&quot;https://e3d-online.dozuki.com/Document/yZ3fNYgAKskGwe3Z/E-HEATER-HP-PUBLIC-%28Edition-3..pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;datasheet on the precision heater cartridge&lt;/a&gt; which can be compared to that of the &lt;a href=&quot;https://e3d-online.dozuki.com/Document/wJPXxAQHBNCVwTem/E-HEATER-ALL.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;regular heater cartridges&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From an electrical perspective, the are identical. They will put out the exact same amount of heat. The main difference is in the dimensional specifications, which for the precision cartridge is guaranteed to be a diameter of 6.0 mm +/- 0.2 mm and a length of 20.0 mm +/- 0.5 mm, while for the regular cartridge no tolerances are specified though they have the same nominal dimensions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Apart from this, as we can discern from the product description, the precision cartridge comes with a connector to enable swapping and a better surface finish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-08-29T09:18:59.620" LastActivityDate="2020-08-29T09:18:59.620" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14338" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-08-29T16:36:05.243" Score="1" ViewCount="195" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is it possible to use a standard color inkjet cartridge to color filament for full color 3D printing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems like a natural next step to me, but I haven't seen much of anything on this. (Just a few ancient experiments on reprap wiki.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've learned that some inkjet printers have the heads built into the cartridge whereas others it's part of the printer.  I think the former would be more appropriate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately I haven't seen anything on actually how to drive the cartridges.  I'm guessing the mfgr's treat this as a trade secret (?)  Still, there's got to be some overseas reverse-engineer... something... on this, right?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anybody have resources/notes they'd like to share?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19291" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-08-29T18:55:58.997" LastActivityDate="2020-09-02T22:08:01.467" Title="Use inkjet cartridge to color filiment?" Tags="|color|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14339" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-08-29T16:50:55.253" Score="1" ViewCount="1514" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am still very much a novice and learning so here is the situation:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Filament was not extruding from nozzle. Checked the filament feeder (worked fine, filament was being squeezed through) and tried to push filament through hot nozzle to see if anything came out. Nothing did.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Did a cold pull, got a little bit of gunk out. Second cold pull didn't work out like the first one, and the glob of PLA that I fed into the nozzle remained stuck there.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I heated and removed the nozzle properly. I am going to soak it in acetone to get rid of the gunk inside. However, when I tried to install my other nozzle, it would take in the threads, and I see now that a little bit of the plastic from the last cold pull melted and trickled down.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What can I do to clean this out and install the nozzle? It is on an Ender 3 Pro.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23423" LastActivityDate="2020-09-29T17:05:45.573" Title="Removed Nozzle, Plastic Still Backed Up after Cold Pull on Ender 3" Tags="|creality-ender-3|pla|extruder|nozzle|cleaning|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14340" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14338" CreationDate="2020-08-29T17:32:44.973" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't think it makes a lot of sense - you don't need that kind of resolution, and getting a sufficient amount of ink that way to coat the filament would be hard. If you're going to be switching colors rapidly, you'd need a long purge between colors anyway. I also doubt the type of ink is suitable for sticking to filament materials.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you really want an automated filament coloring system, I would do it with Sharpies and actuators to move individual ones on/off of the filament as it passes through. Coloring PLA with Sharpies prior to printing is a known-working technique, and there are even models available on Thingiverse for holders to keep them in place while the filament runs through. Designing the actuators to switch individual ones on/off, and the firmware controls for them, would be the natural next step.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are some examples I did with manual coloring of natural translucent PLA (from left to right: uncolored, silver Sharpie, and red Sharpie):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4BE8K.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;3 printed nuts, colored as described in text&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I didn't color a long enough segment of filament or properly purge for any of them, which is why the coloring is inconsistent/incomplete. But the technique definitely works.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastEditorUserId="11157" LastEditDate="2020-08-29T17:46:42.437" LastActivityDate="2020-08-29T17:46:42.437" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14341" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14339" CreationDate="2020-08-30T00:40:59.680" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I fixed this by using a q-tip to wipe out the threads!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23423" LastActivityDate="2020-08-30T00:40:59.680" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14342" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14344" CreationDate="2020-08-30T04:05:12.090" Score="0" ViewCount="96" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is more about using polycarbonate with silicon heated pad as the bed itself, and not as a material that goes onto an existing aluminium bed; i.e. I am not intending to use it as a flexible build surface (although that could be an option as well).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12857" LastActivityDate="2020-08-30T10:33:50.783" Title="Can Polycarbonate be used as heated bed" Tags="|heated-bed|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14343" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-08-30T05:28:31.793" Score="1" ViewCount="278" Body="&lt;p&gt;In some of my G-code files the job X and Y start from 0, 0. I move the nozzle to where I want the print to start and then send &lt;code&gt;G92 X0 Y0 Z0&lt;/code&gt; to the printer and only then start the job. This has worked really well for me so far.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to try and use the bilinear bed leveling feature in Marlin but on a specific area of the bed. Something like that:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;G29 L47 R112 F14 B64&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is - if after the &lt;code&gt;G29&lt;/code&gt; command is finished and the probing is done, I then position the nozzle at &lt;code&gt;X47&lt;/code&gt; and &lt;code&gt;Y14&lt;/code&gt;, and then send the command &lt;code&gt;G92 X0 Y0&lt;/code&gt; (without Z), would that interfere with the bed leveling or would it work ok?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23428" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2020-08-30T15:13:22.873" LastActivityDate="2020-08-30T15:13:22.873" Title="Marlin - G92 after bed levelling?" Tags="|marlin|bed-leveling|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14344" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14342" CreationDate="2020-08-30T10:33:50.783" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since Polycarbonate (PC) has glass transition point of 147°C (according to wikipedia) where it starts to melt, you could in theory use it as a heated bed for PLA or even PETG. BUT, there are other characteristics:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PC is quite good heat insulator, which would result in uneven heat distribution in the heated bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also it expands quite a lot with rising temperature, which could result in warped bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And as per usual with thermoplastic polymers such as PC, heating them and cooling them repeatedly can cause material degradation. That would result in the material becoming brittle, deforming, or changes of other properties....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next problem would be that it is not stiff enough. Depending on the size of the heated bed you would have to support it on multiple points (I would say at least 5x5 grid for 300x300mm bed) and even then it would be unpredictable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To sum it up: yes, you probably could use PC as heated bed, but it is much better to stick to traditional materials like aluminium or glass fibre sheets (PCB material), because PC would be very inconsistent and therefore hard to level.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope this helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: I am basing this on my theoretical knowledge, I have not tested it and thus do not know if my assumptions are correct or not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16997" LastActivityDate="2020-08-30T10:33:50.783" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14345" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-08-30T14:09:45.120" Score="0" ViewCount="1945" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am planning to build a 3D printer with dual extrusion. I want to use PVA with one of the extruders and the main material with the other one so color printing isn't important for me and I just want to use dual-material (mostly PLA and PVA). I want to know which of the types below should I use and also the pros and cons of each one, especially &lt;strong&gt;oozing&lt;/strong&gt; and &lt;strong&gt;final print quality&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Dual extruder and dual nozzle (eg. E3D Chimera+)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Dual extruder and one mixing nozzle (eg. E3D Cyclops)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Dual extruder with 2 independent nozzles (2 stepper motors on the X-axis each one moving 1 E3D v6 individually)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Dual extruder and dual nozzle using a tool changer and a CoreXY setup (using a servo motor to lock the tool to carriage similar to the &lt;a href=&quot;https://e3d-online.com/pages/toolchanger&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;E3D tool changer&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23146" LastEditorUserId="23146" LastEditDate="2020-09-05T03:47:19.900" LastActivityDate="2020-09-05T03:47:19.900" Title="Mixing nozzle vs dual nozzle vs IDEX vs tool changer for pva and pla" Tags="|extruder|ramps-1.4|dual-nozzle|multi-material|pva|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14346" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14339" CreationDate="2020-08-30T16:12:38.653" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have encountered this many times. This is how I solved it:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sadly you have to disassemble the entire hotend. Remove the nozzle, remove the heatbreak and heatsink leaving the heater block in place, it does not need to be cleaned (unless I am mistaken). If there are any plastic pieces in those parts, remove them as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now for the cleaning. Use hot air gun to heat the nozzle/heatbreak/heatsink hot enough so the filament starts to melt. Then you can use a thin screwdriver (or metal wire) to push the stuck filament out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively, you can use blow torch (or gas soldering iron with the soldering tip removed) to melt and burn away the stuck plastic. However, when the plastic burns it transforms into a solid dirt which you have to manually remove. But it does not stick as well as the original filament.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I advise against using q-tips because they are made out of plastic which can stick to the surface as well. Instead, use a piece of old cotton cloth (old sock or t-shirt will do) to wipe the surface or threads after heating the part.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When doing so, use needle nose pliers to hold the part in one hand, with the other hand use hot air gun or blow torch to head it up. Then remove the source of heat and with the same hand use screw driver or piece of cloth to clean the part to your liking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is ugly and messy and you will most likely burn yourself several times. But it solves the problem quite reliably, unlike cold-pulls and other methods (at least in my experience).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bathing the parts in acetone will most likely do nothing (unless the stuck filament is ABS) because most filaments in use are resistant against dissolving in acetone. If you need to remove filament from anywhere, use heat not chemicals. It is easier and works almost 100% time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: The solution above for heatbreaks and heatsinks concerns only full metal hotends. Hotends with PTFE lining (such as on Ender 3 Pro - I do not own one, cannot confirm) need to wory about filament being stuck in the nozzle and/or in the PTFE tube, not in the heatbreak and/or heatsink.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16997" LastActivityDate="2020-08-30T16:12:38.653" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14347" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14345" CreationDate="2020-08-30T16:48:59.467" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would advise against mixing nozzle - you would have many jams and clogs and you would have to use purge tower which in my opinion is not worth it. Thats scratching point 2.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Point 1. and 3. are similar to some extent. With both types you have to align the nozzles in all three axes. Crude aligning should be done by hardware and fine tuning done in software (too much difference in Z alignment could cause one nozzle hitting the printed part). Anyway, the aligning is pain and you will have to do many test prints to achieve sufficient results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my opinion, point 3. (also called Idex - independent dual extrusion, I believe) will give you best results, because while one nozzle is printing, the other one is parked on the side where it can ooze as along as you manage to wipe it when it is getting ready to print. You can use purge buckets. Also you have to home the extruders indepentently as well (one to right and one to left).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Point 1. will introduce a lot off oozing issues. You would have to use ooze shield, or other methods of wiping the other hotend, if you are comfortable with that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for connecting another axis to Ramps 1.4, the board has 5 stepper motor outputs (X, Y, Z, E0 and E1). Therefore there is no output for another X axis, since both E0 and E1 will be used. You have two options I can think of:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Creating your own stepper output and connecting it to auxiliary pins on the board (if you are using legacy stepper drivers, you need 2-3 pins - direction, step, (and motor enable)). That requires some basic knowledge of electrical devices and firmware. However, it is doable. Not easy for someone without sufficient knowledge, but not impossible either.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or the other option is to buy an existing boar with 6 stepper motor outputs such as Bigtreetech SKR PRO. You still have to configure the firmware but it is much easier this time (it has been made/pre-made several times with tutorials).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would suggest using Marlin firmware as it supports many configuration types and has very strong community - someone has likely solved your solution or can help you solve yours.&#xA;I would also suggest not using Ramps board with Arduino Mega2560. That board configuration is so old. 3D printers have moved on, whereas that board has stayed the same for 5 or so years. It is OK, perhaps good for tinkering, but there are far better options (such as the mentioned BTT SKR series boards).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck with your design.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: I do not own a dual extrusion printer of any of the mentioned types. This is just my understanding of the theory and how I would do it, if I were to build a dual extrusion 3D printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16997" LastActivityDate="2020-08-30T16:48:59.467" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14348" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14351" CreationDate="2020-08-31T00:56:59.493" Score="1" ViewCount="3361" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a brand new Creality CR-10 S5. I'm new to printing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to level the print bed, but after using the Auto-Home function the nozzle is left touching the glass. I understand that to do the leveling, I must move the head manually to the four positions for adjusting. But I really don't want to do that because I don't want to damage the glass, nozzle, or both. From the explanations of leveling I've found, I think I should expect the nozzle to be too high if anything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Am I conceptually wrong, or have I made some rookie mistake?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23435" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-08-31T07:21:45.770" LastActivityDate="2020-09-30T08:05:35.577" Title="Can't level CR10 as nozzle is touching the glass" Tags="|bed-leveling|creality-cr-10|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14349" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-08-31T03:28:16.337" Score="3" ViewCount="422" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are there any good resources on understanding how G-code/slicing for belt bed printers works? I'm told the upcoming Creality 3DPrintMill is being used with Blackbelt Cura, which seems to be a fork of a really old Cura modified in some way for belt bed printers, but I didn't find much information on how it actually works.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In particular, do these printers use normal gcode? What is the coordinate system like? Conceptually the axes are not orthogonal but skew (e.g. 45°) to the belt axis, and part of my question is whether the coordinate system is in this skew basis, or somehow transformed in firmware to an orthogonal basis.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In asking this, I'm partly aiming to determine how hard it would be to use existing/unmodified software (e.g. upstream Cura) to slice for such a machine, possibly with postprocessing of the gcode.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-08-31T07:15:07.423" LastActivityDate="2021-03-13T15:03:30.400" Title="How does G-code for belt bed printers work?" Tags="|g-code|slicing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14351" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14348" CreationDate="2020-08-31T07:25:38.153" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the nozzle is touching the bed, you need to further screw down the bed. If the springs under the screws are already fully compressed, you cannot lower the bed further and you will need to move the Z-endstop up. Note that there are handy fine tuning aids you can print to help you with this, see e.g. &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2780362&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; fine tune part for your printer. Note that this issue is not uncommon, I've read that more people encountered this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2020-08-31T07:25:38.153" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14352" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14338" CreationDate="2020-08-31T20:35:38.383" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;AS an FYI, this is becoming available commercially:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.xyzprinting.com/en-US/product-level/PROFESSIONAL/color-series&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.xyzprinting.com/en-US/product-level/PROFESSIONAL/color-series&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23446" LastActivityDate="2020-08-31T20:35:38.383" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14353" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-09-01T05:41:23.930" Score="2" ViewCount="2261" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am planning to build a CoreXY machine with a tool changing system. I am using Marlin firmware and &lt;code&gt;BigTreeTech SKR PRO&lt;/code&gt; as the controller board. There are 3 options in Marlin for tool changing systems:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Switching tool head&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Magnetic switching tool head&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Electromagnetic switching tool head&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to use the switching tool head in my project using a servo/stepper motor. So I have 2 questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Should I use a servo or stepper motor? Which one does the board and firmware support?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Where should I connect the servo/stepper on the SKR PRO and what should the value of &lt;code&gt;SWITCHING_TOOLHEAD_SERVO_NR&lt;/code&gt; be?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: I am also using a BLTouch leveling sensor So I can't connect the servo to the BLTouch servo port.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit: After so much research, finally, I found the way to do this.&lt;/strong&gt; For the first question, Servo is the best choice.&#xA;First, we need to configure tool change x and y position and servo rotation angle in &lt;code&gt;configuration.h&lt;/code&gt; file and leave &lt;code&gt;SWITCHING_TOOLHEAD_SERVO_NR&lt;/code&gt; as it is. Also, uncomment &lt;code&gt;#define NUM_SERVOS&lt;/code&gt; and set it to 2.Then we need to open &lt;code&gt;Marlin\src\pins\stm32f4\pins_BTT_SKR_PRO_common.h&lt;/code&gt; file and in the &lt;code&gt;Servos&lt;/code&gt; section, add the following line:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#define SERVO1_PIN                          PC9&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the end, connect the servo signal pin to the &lt;code&gt;PC9&lt;/code&gt; pin on extension 1 and the &lt;code&gt;VCC&lt;/code&gt; and &lt;code&gt;GND&lt;/code&gt; pin to the pins next to the PC9 pin that are &lt;code&gt;GND&lt;/code&gt; and &lt;code&gt;5V&lt;/code&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Note:&lt;/strong&gt; I haven't tested this because I don't have this board. If this way doesn't work, please tell me in comments.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23146" LastEditorUserId="4922" LastEditDate="2021-04-21T13:46:52.687" LastActivityDate="2021-04-21T13:46:52.687" Title="Configure Marlin for tool changing system" Tags="|marlin|bigtreetech|corexy|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14354" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14353" CreationDate="2020-09-01T07:36:42.913" Score="2" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use a servo. This way you can use the digital pins to control it; or in your specific case &lt;code&gt;PWM_PC9&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Connect it to the expansion port and configure one of the digital pins in the marlin configuration file. A servo will go to the minimum position when the pin goes low, and the max position when the pin goes high. I take it you don't need any stops in between since you're doing a tool changer.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;If you figure out how to modify the code to support tool changing, I'd be interested to know as well.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12857" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-09-01T19:03:32.007" LastActivityDate="2020-09-01T19:03:32.007" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14356" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14264" CreationDate="2020-09-01T17:07:19.543" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, thermistors can drift in value as well as outright failing (usually open).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my experience this is not uncommon in thermistors operated above 100 degrees C. The drift is typically downward in resistance so the controlled temperature will be less than the desired setpoint, which is exactly what you are observing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3992" LastActivityDate="2020-09-01T17:07:19.543" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14358" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14374" CreationDate="2020-09-01T19:32:05.367" Score="1" ViewCount="3805" Body="&lt;p&gt;MY new BLTouch doesn't seem to be actually sensing anything, and I'm not sure how to test it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Quick background: I have a bit under a decade of experience with printing generally, but essentially none with firmware or any of the specific hardware. I recently got a new Ender 3 Pro, and successfully printed with it for a month.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I recently decided to upgrade my Ender 3 pro motherboard and add a BLTouch. I installed an SKR Mini E3 v2.0, tested briefly (long enough to satisfy myself that it worked as expected, but nothing extensive). I bolted on a BLTouch (not sure if 3.0 or 3.1), built and installed a cable to the dedicated &amp;quot;Z-Probe&amp;quot; port (same pinout as the BLTouch: brown, red, yellow, black, white), and updated the firmware with the &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/bigtreetech/BIGTREETECH-SKR-mini-E3/blob/master/firmware/V2.0/firmware-bltouch.bin&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;binary firmware file from the controller board manufacturer&lt;/a&gt;. I have no other mods to electronics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Right now, I have the following behavior:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;During startup: BLTouch extends and retracts several times&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In the LCD menu for BLTouch; select &lt;code&gt;CMD:Self Test&lt;/code&gt;: BLTouch turns red, extends and retracts several times.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In the LCD menu for BLTouch; select &lt;code&gt;CMD:Extend&lt;/code&gt;: BLTouch extends.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In the LCD menu for BLTouch; select &lt;code&gt;CMD:Retract&lt;/code&gt;: BLTouch retracts.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In the LCD menu, select &lt;code&gt;Auto Home&lt;/code&gt;: behaves as expected (moves the axes until they hit endstops).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So far so good, but then this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In the LCD menu, select &lt;code&gt;Bed Level&lt;/code&gt;: performs Auto Home procedure (as above), moves the BLTouch over the corner of the bed, extends the probe, lowers the Z axis until it hits the endstop. BLTouch probe moves back in. On the way down it turns solid red, then flashing red, then eventually retracts, then the carriage hits the endstop. Process ends.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, What next? I'd like to check that the BLTouch is actually sending a signal to the board, but I'm not sure how. I've reviewed a bunch of online tutorials and the documentation for the mainboard and the BLTouch, without finding an answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Available tools: I have a multimeter and a very cheap oscilloscope. I haven't gotten the maple console installed, but do have a (probably?) functional alternative through the Pango slicer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6479" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-09-04T08:43:06.337" LastActivityDate="2020-09-04T08:43:06.337" Title="How can I tell if BLTouch is triggering?" Tags="|creality-ender-3|bltouch|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14359" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1266" CreationDate="2020-09-01T22:34:46.873" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have a few friends you could pitch in and use a recycling service like &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.terracycle.com/en-US/zero_waste_boxes/3d-printing-materials&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Terracycle&lt;/a&gt; where you can send your failed prints, rafts and scraps. No affiliation with Terracycle, it's just a service that I found and am considering.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12721" LastEditorUserId="12721" LastEditDate="2020-09-02T21:41:52.570" LastActivityDate="2020-09-02T21:41:52.570" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14360" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14364" CreationDate="2020-09-02T03:10:08.280" Score="6" ViewCount="25553" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am very new to 3D printing. I am looking to purchase the Ender 3 V2 but before I do I would appreciate some advice on what I should purchase as the upgrades/addons for it. I'm not sure as to what I would need for the V2 since most websites are for the original Ender 3 so I don't know if the V2 already has that upgrade/addons or not when compared to the original. I would rather get all the upgrades/addons and the Ender 3 V2 at the same to save on shipping and all. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pretty much the only upgrade/addons I have constantly seen is the auto bed level. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So if anyone can help out a first time 3D printer noob then that would be great!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23457" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-02-02T22:11:26.160" LastActivityDate="2021-02-09T19:15:07.793" Title="Ender 3 V2 upgrades and addons" Tags="|creality-ender-3|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14361" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18871" CreationDate="2020-09-02T05:13:19.757" Score="1" ViewCount="507" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just bought a new RAMPS 1.6 shield to replace my old RAMPS 1.4 shield. The problem is that it's just not working, the motors don't move, heatbed/nozzle don't get heated. It was all working with the RAMPS 1.4 shield.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I checked the RAMPS 1.6 and there's no bridging in the solder joints.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The DRV8255 is drawing current also but the motor doesn't move.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am using Repetier Firmware. I tried Marlin (default) and even it's not working.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20327" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-09-02T06:59:26.413" LastActivityDate="2022-02-05T16:58:36.377" Title="New RAMPS 1.6 not working" Tags="|diy-3d-printer|arduino-mega-2650|ramps-1.6|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14362" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14360" CreationDate="2020-09-02T06:09:59.007" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;IMHO, it's probably better to get the printer as-is first. This way you can get familiar with the printer and 3D printing in general before you get overwhelmed with all the extra introduced variables from your upgrades.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The new model already has loads of features that were considered upgrades on the older model and you can already get very nice results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Upgrading your printer is a part of the 3D printing hobby, and you'll probably never be done with it :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16860" LastEditorUserId="16860" LastEditDate="2020-09-02T06:23:01.587" LastActivityDate="2020-09-02T06:23:01.587" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14363" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14365" CreationDate="2020-09-02T12:54:46.087" Score="5" ViewCount="464" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not really sure what the type of plug on the heater cable is. Is it a Molex KK or maybe a JST PH?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The printer is a &lt;em&gt;Prusa I3&lt;/em&gt; Hephestos (aka BQ Hephestos). It came with this &amp;quot;BQ HOT-END HEATCORE CLASSIC&amp;quot; hotend from the &amp;quot;BQ Witbox 1&amp;quot; extruder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Msnjw.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Msnjw.png&quot; alt=&quot;Hotend in question&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18651" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2020-09-03T18:00:49.790" LastActivityDate="2020-10-01T16:30:29.573" Title="What type of plug is this?" Tags="|prusa-i3|hotend|electronics|replacement-parts|bq-hephestos|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14364" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14360" CreationDate="2020-09-02T13:54:12.123" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have also been looking at getting into 3D printing and purchasing the Ender-3 V2.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my research, the biggest differences between the original and V2 are the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tempered carborundum glass bed&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;HD color screen instead of the old LCD character display&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Upgraded, 32-bit, self-developed, “silent” motherboard&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Capability to resume a print after a power outage&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;XY-axis tensioner&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Manual filament feeding&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Toolbox embedded in the base of the printer&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For more info, you can see more at all3dp and Creality's sites.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Next, there are several YouTube vids on upgrades/add-ons that you can do:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XxfJelrckjM&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Firmware upgrade&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r5gbFe7tjZQ&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Dual Gear Extruder&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w8Ku8vZD9_g&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Bed Springs&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Hov9lfBqXIw&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Another Bed Glass upgrade&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6OP2c-GQFu4&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Octoprint&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are several add-ons you can print yourself once you get your printer (some are not specific to the Ender 3 V2). Of course, you will have to decide which of these you are looking to add. Here are just a few:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kG_YKeJDaX8&amp;amp;t=447s&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;First 24 Upgrades on my Ender 3 Pro&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oy1wiP6dPjg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Ender 3 Pro Upgrades&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IrLvz7OGAe4&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Ender 3 Upgrades&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would suggest, as others have, get the printer first and take it for a &amp;quot;test drive&amp;quot; first. Once you have seen its capabilities and if, again IF, anything needs to be fixed/upgraded/updated, then do what your budget allows. And by all means, do extensive research, ask questions on forums and here, and most of all have fun!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Sorry, I don't have enough reputation to create more links.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23193" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2020-09-02T17:01:34.723" LastActivityDate="2020-09-02T17:01:34.723" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14365" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14363" CreationDate="2020-09-02T15:24:25.397" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;As 0scar noted, this looks suspiciously &lt;em&gt;like&lt;/em&gt; a JST connector, but the left one is not a JST RCY connector and it is neither one of the common &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.jst-mfg.com/product/detail_e.php?series=199&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;JST PH&lt;/a&gt; nor &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.jst-mfg.com/product/detail_e.php?series=277&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;JST XH&lt;/a&gt;, JST manufacturer pages show. In fact, it's not a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.jst-mfg.com/product/search_e.php?type=1&amp;amp;id=11&amp;amp;page=1&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;wire-to-wire JST&lt;/a&gt; connector. The &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.bqstore.nl/de/bq/77-BQ-Heizpatrone-40W-mit-JST-Stecker-8436545516805.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;BQ-store claims&lt;/a&gt; it is a 2.5 mm JST connector, but JST has some 10 dozen different types of connectors, some three dozen of them with a 2.5 mm pitch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;&amp;quot;JST Quick&amp;quot; / JST RCY&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.jst-mfg.com/product/detail_e.php?series=521&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2TWZM.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This one is rated 3A, and looks like the connector on the right, the thermistor one. So if you need to fix that, you know what to get for that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;So what it is?&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The connector however looks at &lt;em&gt;first glance suspiciously&lt;/em&gt; like this one:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HKAwN.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HKAwN.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found this product on several warehouses, listed as &lt;code&gt;2-PIN CONNECTOR W/HEADER, .10&amp;quot;&lt;/code&gt;, and even found a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.allelectronics.com/mas_assets/media/allelectronics2018/spec/CON-242.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;specsheet&lt;/a&gt;. Those products appear, in design, to be based on the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.molex.com/molex/products/part-detail/crimp_houaings/0022013027&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Molex KK 254&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt; from the 2659 series. A genuine Molex 2659-series connector is rated for up to &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.molex.com/pdm_docs/ps/PS-10-07-001.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;2.5 Ampere&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt;, and looks &lt;em&gt;somewhat&lt;/em&gt; similar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, the shop did claim it is a JST 2.5 mm pin, and they give a side view:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5UEE8.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5UEE8.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That is &lt;strong&gt;not&lt;/strong&gt; a Molex KK. It appears more similar to a JST NV, which however has a 5 mm distance between the peg centers (= pitch) and it's rated for 10 A (or 120 W at 12V!). While matching in &lt;em&gt;style&lt;/em&gt; it does not match in measurements - as OP confirmed, there's a very close to a 4 mm pitch (+- measurement tollerance) on the connector. So it's not an NV, but something os similar style.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.jst-mfg.com/product/detail_e.php?series=186&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TNbT1.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But then it has to be the VH! The VH series has a 3.98 mm pitch, it has that latch and it is rated 10 A, for 120 W at 12 V. In fact, the pins on the Hotend seem to be B2P-VH, matching VHR-2N or VHR-2M &amp;quot;female&amp;quot; adapters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.jst-mfg.com/product/detail_e.php?series=262&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RIxNS.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Safety?&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would &lt;strong&gt;not&lt;/strong&gt; trust a Molex KK 2659-series connector with a heater cartridge on a 12 V Machine! With a 12 V, 30 W Heater cartridge draws &lt;strong&gt;exactly&lt;/strong&gt; 2.5 Ampere, so you'd have a safety margin of 0! That's bad design. A 40 W heater cartridge would draw 3.3 A - that's 132 % of the rating! That'd be a fire waiting to happen!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Only a 24 V machine could be built with a Molek KK 2659 connector and stay within the 2.5 A rating (40 W &amp;amp; 24 V -&amp;gt; 1.67 A, 30 W &amp;amp; 24 W -&amp;gt; 1.25 A) with a safety factor of about 1.5 to 2 to the rating (depending on heater cartridge).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, this is a JST VH with a rating of 10 A. That means, at 12 V, it's safe for 120 W load, so plenty safe: That's a safety facor of 3, and on a 24 V machine it'd be 6. That's Perfectly safe and sane! After all we look for at least a 5 A rated connector in conjunction with a 12 V/40 W heater.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The more tedious variant to connect safely is to use either an even higher rated connector (requiring replacement) or a continuous wire to the board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2020-09-02T22:13:41.920" LastActivityDate="2020-09-02T22:13:41.920" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14366" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2020-09-02T18:04:40.050" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2020-09-02T18:04:40.050" LastActivityDate="2020-09-02T18:04:40.050" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14367" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2020-09-02T18:04:40.050" Score="0" Body="The BQ Hephestos series, also known as Prusa-i3 Hephestos, is a Prusa-i3 design printer by BQ from Spain." OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2020-09-02T18:04:40.050" LastActivityDate="2020-09-02T18:04:40.050" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14368" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2020-09-02T18:26:42.793" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2020-09-02T18:26:42.793" LastActivityDate="2020-09-02T18:26:42.793" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14369" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2020-09-02T18:26:42.793" Score="0" Body="The BQ Hephestos series, also known as Prusa-i3 Hephestos, is a Prusa-i3 design printer by BQ from Spain." OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2020-09-02T18:26:42.793" LastActivityDate="2020-09-02T18:26:42.793" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14370" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14338" CreationDate="2020-09-02T22:08:01.467" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a thing since I think 2-3 years. There's such a printer from XYZ printing. It's not cheap but worth it. &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.xyzprinting.com/en-US/product/da-vinci-color&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.xyzprinting.com/en-US/product/da-vinci-color&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other thing thats available right now is a new print technology named Multy Jet Fusion, where drops of resin being colored and droped to a 3D Print: &lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/VXntl3ff5tc?start=0&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18651" LastActivityDate="2020-09-02T22:08:01.467" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14372" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-09-03T00:27:23.127" Score="1" ViewCount="449" Body="&lt;p&gt;Marlin has a feature that can &lt;a href=&quot;https://marlinfw.org/docs/features/autostart.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;execute a G-code file from an SD card when printer is turned on&lt;/a&gt;; this is called Autostart.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;code&gt;Autostart&lt;/code&gt; is available on printers with an SD card reader. If &lt;code&gt;auto0.g&lt;/code&gt; exists on the card, the printer will recognize and execute it on bootup. Thereafter, if there are files with incrementing numbers, e.g. &lt;code&gt;auto1.g&lt;/code&gt;, they will be done in incrementing order.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Name your file &lt;code&gt;auto0.g&lt;/code&gt; and it runs when the printer is powered up.  &lt;code&gt;auto0.g&lt;/code&gt; should execute first then &lt;code&gt;auto1.g&lt;/code&gt; then &lt;code&gt;auto2.g&lt;/code&gt; etc.  Mine will only execute &lt;code&gt;auto1.g&lt;/code&gt; and not the others. Any thoughts what happens here?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23470" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-09-03T05:59:38.203" LastActivityDate="2020-09-03T05:59:38.203" Title="Marlin Firmware - Autostart only runs `auto1.g` but not `auto0.g`" Tags="|marlin|firmware|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14374" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14358" CreationDate="2020-09-03T14:55:35.533" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Problem is solved, though I still don't know how to test the BLTouch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had reversed the power connection (black and white wires) at the connection to the extension cable. Swapping that connector back around restored expected behavior.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6479" LastActivityDate="2020-09-03T14:55:35.533" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14375" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-09-03T15:45:16.557" Score="4" ViewCount="9161" Body="&lt;p&gt;I installed a BLTouch V3.1 on my Ender 3 which is using Marlin (bugfix 2.0.x) off a Skr mini e3 v2.0. I updated the firmware using a teaching tech video.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm having trouble when using bed leveling. It homes everything correctly, and then moves outside the bed before the probe repeatedly deploys and retracts, without the head moving at all. I attached a link to a video here: &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/liTlh8uBiPA&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Bed Leveling Problem&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a feeling it  must be something in my config files from looking at other answers here but I really don't know. I attached my config files as well. &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/Nghtmare/my-Ender-3-Settings/blob/master/Configuration.h&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Configuration.h&lt;/a&gt; , &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/Nghtmare/my-Ender-3-Settings/blob/master/Configuration_adv.h&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Configuration_adv.h&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have the BLTouch plugged into the z-stop for the black and white cords. I didn't need to cut any wires or anything since mine came with the endstop connector piece attached, and the other wires in the Zprobe section (Blue, Red, Yellow) to (&lt;code&gt;GND&lt;/code&gt;, &lt;code&gt;+5V&lt;/code&gt;, &lt;code&gt;PA1&lt;/code&gt;) respectively. As for the firmware, I got it directly off the Marlin site: &lt;a href=&quot;https://marlinfw.org/meta/download/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;marlinfw.org/meta/download&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any assistance would be greatly appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additional information:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have connected my printer to PronterFace and recieve the following error when sending a G29&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;    Reset.&#xA;&amp;gt;&amp;gt;&amp;gt; G28&#xA;SENDING:G28&#xA;&amp;gt;&amp;gt;&amp;gt; G29&#xA;SENDING:G29&#xA;Error:!! STOP called because of BLTouch error - restart with M999&#xA;[ERROR] Error:!! STOP called because of BLTouch error - restart with M999&#xA;&#xA;Error:Probing Failed&#xA;[ERROR] Error:Probing Failed&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23479" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-09-05T22:07:22.400" LastActivityDate="2020-12-23T00:29:09.710" Title="BLTouch not leveling" Tags="|creality-ender-3|troubleshooting|bed-leveling|bltouch|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14376" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14375" CreationDate="2020-09-03T16:46:11.793" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You are mixing and matching a few older techniques. That's understandable, because &amp;quot;older&amp;quot; means &amp;quot;as of three months ago.&amp;quot; But there is a better way now: as of version 2.0, the SKR mini has a full, working port for the BLTouch. You do &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; need to plug it into the z-stop, and you can and should retain your existing z-stop switch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Power down your printer and get access to your board.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Roll back your hardware changes by unplugging the BLTouch and reattaching the z-stop switch.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Plug the bltouch into the port labelled &amp;quot;z-probe&amp;quot;, which is next to the display port. Starting from the pin nearest to the stop switches, the pin order should be Brown, Red, Yellow, Black White.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Optional: instead of the step above, cut the DuPont connectors off the BLTouch cables and crimp a single XH-5Y connector in their place, then plug that into the board.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Download the official BLTouch firmware from SKR mini: &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/bigtreetech/BIGTREETECH-SKR-mini-E3/blob/master/firmware/V2.0/firmware-bltouch.bin&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://github.com/bigtreetech/BIGTREETECH-SKR-mini-E3/blob/master/firmware/V2.0/firmware-bltouch.bin&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Install that firmware: Rename the file to &amp;quot;firmware.bin&amp;quot;, unplug any USB cables from your printer, copy the file to a MicroSD, insert the MicroSD into your printer and power it on.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;...and then it should work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6479" LastActivityDate="2020-09-03T16:46:11.793" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14377" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-09-04T05:38:05.253" Score="1" ViewCount="2368" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I need to 3D print a hollow box that can not have any light permeating into the box, what would be the best course of action? Should I 3D print the hollow box as a whole or print out the 6 sides individually and put them together at the end? And if I do the second option, what would be the best way to put the pieces together (design/connect grooves or use glue)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am very new to 3D printing so any feedback would be very much appreciated!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23483" LastActivityDate="2020-09-04T06:19:01.803" Title="When 3D printing a hollow box, what is the best course of action?" Tags="|3d-models|3d-design|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14378" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14377" CreationDate="2020-09-04T05:50:29.683" Score="0" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Print it as a whole object&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use 20% infill.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Profit!&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12857" LastActivityDate="2020-09-04T05:50:29.683" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14379" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14377" CreationDate="2020-09-04T06:19:01.803" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;That depends very much on what your goal is with the box. If it needs to be hollow and you don't need any access to the inside (and also prefer it to be printed in one piece) than the answer provided by user77232 would probably be the best.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively, if you need access to the inside of the box you would probably be best off printing the box in two pieces. A box and a lid. This way you can print the box without support and also save on material that would otherwise be used as infill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The amount of light coming into your box also depends on the translucency of your material and brightness of the light source. To find the required wall thickness would be a matter of testing with the desired material.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16860" LastActivityDate="2020-09-04T06:19:01.803" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14381" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-09-04T09:56:58.157" Score="1" ViewCount="12249" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently upgraded my Ender 3 Pro with a &lt;a href=&quot;https://printermods.com/products/direct-drive-mod-for-creality-ender-3-cr-10&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;direct drive kit&lt;/a&gt;, primarily so I can print soft materials like TPU. I bought a spool of &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B07VBKDM74&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Overture TPU&lt;/a&gt; to try it out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm getting really bad stringing on every print, to the point where it's pretty much unusable. This is my first time printing with TPU, so I'm at a loss for what to do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Direct Drive mod&lt;/strong&gt; -&#xA;After modding the printer I did a few prints with PLA, and it works great with very little stringing. So I assume I assembled the mod correctly and that's not the issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Material&lt;/strong&gt; -&#xA;Reviews of the Overture TPU on Amazon mostly say it has low stringing and are generally positive, so I'm assuming it's not just bad filament.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Temperature&lt;/strong&gt; - The consensus in the Amazon reviews seems to be that 230°C is the sweet spot. I did a temperature tower from 205 °C to 230 °C by 5 °C, and the print quality and stringing was pretty much uniform throughout.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Retraction&lt;/strong&gt; - I tried with retraction off, then with 1 mm, 2 mm, and 6.5 mm, in various combinations with temperature and speed. Results varied in details, but all were pretty bad.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Speed&lt;/strong&gt; - I tried slowing down to 15 mm/s (from Cura's default of 50). Results got even worse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Following are photos of a stringing test with various combinations of settings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GF47t.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GF47t.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;PLA - 205 °C - Layer thickness 0.2 mm - Retraction 1 mm&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;PLA for reference - 205 °C - Layer thickness 0.2 mm - Retraction 1 mm&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qBOOk.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qBOOk.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;TPU - 205 °C - Layer thickness 0.2 mm - Retraction 2 mm - Print speed 15 mm/s&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;TPU - 205 °C - Layer thickness 0.2 mm - Retraction 2 mm - Print speed 15 mm/s&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vgTIt.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vgTIt.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;TPU - 230 °C - Layer thickness 0.2 mm - Retraction 1 mm - Print speed 15 mm/s&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;TPU - 230 °C - Layer thickness 0.2 mm - Retraction 1 mm - Print speed 15 mm/s&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SygEx.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SygEx.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;TPU - 230°C - Layer thickness 0.2 mm - Retraction 1 mm&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;TPU - 230 °C - Layer thickness 0.2 mm - Retraction 1 mm&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JLrgw.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JLrgw.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;TPU - 230 °C - Layer thickness 0.2 mm - Retraction 2 mm&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;TPU - 230 °C - Layer thickness 0.2 mm - Retraction 2 mm&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LVlGv.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LVlGv.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;TPU - 230 °C - Layer thickness 0.2 mm - Retraction 6.5 mm&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;TPU - 230 °C - Layer thickness 0.2 mm - Retraction 6.5 mm&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uwuMV.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uwuMV.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;TPU - 230 °C - Layer thickness 0.12 mm - No retraction&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;TPU - 230 °C - Layer thickness 0.12 mm - No retraction&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lUOSK.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lUOSK.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;TPU - 240 °C - Layer thickness 0.2 mm - No retraction&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;TPU - 240 °C - Layer thickness 0.2 mm - No retraction&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there something else I should try to reduce stringing? Is it possible that I just got a bad spool of TPU? Or is it more likely something's wrong with my printer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16902" LastEditorUserId="16902" LastEditDate="2020-09-04T20:42:42.730" LastActivityDate="2021-11-09T17:00:58.563" Title="Ender 3 with direct drive has severe stringing printing TPU" Tags="|creality-ender-3|tpu|stringing|direct-drive|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14382" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14381" CreationDate="2020-09-04T15:07:06.000" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Due to the flexible characteristics of TPU, stringing is a known &amp;quot;complication&amp;quot; with this material.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/ldRuwjkSpL4?start=0&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt; is a video from Matterhackers:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;no retraction - stringing is expected&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;dry filament - ensure the filament hasn't been exposed to the air for extended periods - use an oven or dehydrator if needed&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are many other tutorials and videos covering the process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KBbsDQWfrwA&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Tom Sanladerer&lt;/a&gt; has also a video covering the use of flexible filament.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;ensure correct alignment of hobbed bolt and feed hole&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;consider to use a piece of PTFE tubing downstream of drive mechanism&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;use 3 mm (usually 2.85 mm nowadays) filament for better results (if possible)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;bed temp - 40 °C with glue stick on bed&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;print slower&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;adjust extrusion multiplier by testing various settings&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously some of the above references don't apply or are being observed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-09-04T22:20:13.487" LastActivityDate="2020-09-04T22:20:13.487" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14383" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-09-04T21:02:22.710" Score="1" ViewCount="59" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am using a Qidi Tech 1 (Flashforge Creator Pro). There is no auto bed leveling and I have done my best to tweak it by hand using the screws underneath the heated bed plate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is causing this characteristic pattern? This while printing the first layer of some test pattern. I don't know what the end result is supposed to look like.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IWQXu.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IWQXu.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23492" LastActivityDate="2020-09-04T22:27:35.090" Title="What causes this characteristic pattern and what is it called?" Tags="|extrusion|flashforge-creator|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14384" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14383" CreationDate="2020-09-04T22:27:35.090" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;These &amp;quot;stretch marks&amp;quot; are typically the result of a nozzle that is a little too close to the build surface. Next time levelling be sure to use a thicker piece of paper or allow for less drag when moving the the paper between nozzle and bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2020-09-04T22:27:35.090" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14385" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14381" CreationDate="2020-09-05T03:22:51.553" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your printer is capable of printing TPU out of the box, and very well if you upgrade the firmware to Marlin 2.0. That you're having problems like this suggests that you messed something up with the direct drive kit. TPU, being so flexible, is very sensitive to having any excess play in the path between the extruder gear and the hotend. I'm not familar with this particular direct drive kit, but knowing how the Ender 3's bowden tube works, with the PTFE extending all the way to where the nozzle seats, it seems likely that it was removed and replaced as part of the conversion, and if this was not done right, there are all sorts of ways the TPU could kink between the extruder gear and the nozzle, messing up the relationship of extruder moves to actual extrusion, and in particular messing up retraction completely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Speaking of retraction, it &lt;strong&gt;must be on, and properly configured&lt;/strong&gt; to print anything accurately. When you don't retract, or don't retract sufficiently, there is still high pressure at the nozzle even when you're not trying to extrude anything (during travel moves), and material will exit the nozzle, then &lt;strong&gt;will be unavailable to extrude in sufficient quantity where it belongs later&lt;/strong&gt;. Advice to turn retraction off is just wrong, always.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you use Marlin 2.0 with Linear Advance and calibrate the spring constant right for TPU, you can use the same retraction distance that works for PLA. If you're stuck with the original firmware that doesn't have it, you need to add to the retraction the length that the TPU will compress when printing at the speed you want to print at (and you will get inaccuracies when speed varies from that). I had to use 12 mm retraction with flexible filaments when using the original Ender 3 firmware and printing around 30 mm/s. This was with the bowden, so the distance needed may vary with your modified setup. (And again, check that nothing is wrong with it! Installation errors or product design flaws seem like the most likely cause here.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, see &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/8643/11157&quot;&gt;this self-answer&lt;/a&gt; from when I first started printing with flexible filaments on an Ender 3. The biggest problem was the severe over-priming in Cura's default start gcode for the printer, which left so much excess pressure (filament compression) after priming that no amount of retraction would stop the stringing. Fixing that was the single biggest ingredient in getting rid of my stringing problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastEditorUserId="11157" LastEditDate="2020-09-05T03:48:04.027" LastActivityDate="2020-09-05T03:48:04.027" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14387" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3112" CreationDate="2020-09-05T11:36:02.957" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I spent a number of hours trying to work out why my Creality Ender Pro was ignoring me when I sent it serial data over USB from a Python app. Google searches trying to find a solution that were not talking about &lt;code&gt;encode()&lt;/code&gt; and &lt;code&gt;decode()&lt;/code&gt; all seemed to lead me to this thread.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I installed Minicom as per the video link, and all worked as it should, but I still failed to receive a reply in my Python implementation, I could connect and read the serial sent from the printer but nothing append when sending back to it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After a few hours scratching my head I realised that the printer reacted to input as it received each new line &lt;code&gt;\n&lt;/code&gt; character that I was failing to add to the end of each command sent so the printer was just sitting waiting for me to finish transmitting my line end that never came.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;self.serialPort = serial.Serial('/dev/ttyUSB0', 115200, exclusive = True)&#xA;lines = self.serialPort.read(self.serialPort.in_waiting).decode().splitlines(False)&#xA;line = line + &amp;quot;\n&amp;quot;&#xA;self.serialPort.write(line.encode())&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hopefully no one else is as stupid but to save anyone else like me time, I would like to point this out here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23499" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-09-05T13:27:53.250" LastActivityDate="2020-09-05T13:27:53.250" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14388" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14391" CreationDate="2020-09-06T17:45:07.533" Score="0" ViewCount="64" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am using two resin printers based on the ChiTu software (Creality LD-002R and SainSmart Kumitsu KL9), and the former uses ChiTu 1.6.2, while the latter came with 1.6.1. I believe both will work just fine with the latest version, but it occurs to me that having separate copies of the software may be a good idea to keep configurations separate as well: Creality's version of the software came pre-configured (and the settings are undocumented!), while the SainSmart manual documents the software settings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't want to go back-and forth between two sets of settings manually — the secret recipe approach has poor UX and time's a wastin'. I am wondering if there is any concern with installing multiple copies of ChiTu. And if anyone has a smarter way to accomplish the same (printer profiles? INI files?), I am all ears.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2493" LastActivityDate="2020-09-07T00:37:57.267" Title="Installing multiple versions of ChiTu side by side" Tags="|resin|creality-ld-002r|chitu|sainsmart-kumitsu-kl9|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14389" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-09-06T17:46:24.127" Score="2" ViewCount="1386" Body="&lt;p&gt;I already tried a lot settings in Cura and try to search for a solution but without success. Maybe someone got this issue and solved it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to prevent Cura from printing such gaps at the wings to make it in one run. With ironing one run would (hopefully) bring better results. See the animation for what I mean.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4C91H.gif&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4C91H.gif&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why want to do this? I hope to prevent thes ironing issues shown in the following pic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Tq5vX.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Tq5vX.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16932" LastEditorUserId="16932" LastEditDate="2020-09-07T17:03:50.693" LastActivityDate="2020-10-09T07:19:20.830" Title="How to force Cura to walk through a layer in one run?" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14390" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8059" CreationDate="2020-09-06T21:19:20.340" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;On my Ender 3 Pro's I have found the following works well (also remember settings can be effected by different brand/quality of filament):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bed to nozzle 0.2-0.3 mm,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Multiplier 100 %,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Nozzle ~230 °C/bed 70 °C,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Speed 50 mm/s.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cooling off first few layers but from there cooling and retraction is part specific.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you use retraction, it may help to slow it down to 25 mm/s and adjust retract distance if your using Bowden tube or direct drive. Last, a must have, a can of hair spray, works great and less expensive than the glues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23514" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-09-06T22:51:35.087" LastActivityDate="2020-09-06T22:51:35.087" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14391" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14388" CreationDate="2020-09-07T00:37:57.267" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Running multiple versions of the same software did not sit well with the software person in me, so I dug a little deeper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;ChiTu has a &amp;quot;settings&amp;quot; button to the right side, and under that section it is possible to configure different, separate printer profiles. That may take care of the differences if properly configured, unfortunately only some printer profiles are pre-loaded. ChiTu 1.6.4 includes the Creality LD-002R profile, while the very recent Kumitsu KL9 is not predefined (yet), but the manual comes with a screenshot of the parameters just as they need to be entered.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2493" LastActivityDate="2020-09-07T00:37:57.267" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14392" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14395" CreationDate="2020-09-07T00:41:52.533" Score="2" ViewCount="383" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can different resin colors be mixed to generate new colors? I use eSun water washable resins, but I am happy to switch if this is a different vendor's capability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2493" LastEditorUserId="2493" LastEditDate="2020-09-08T19:49:53.530" LastActivityDate="2020-09-08T19:49:53.530" Title="Can photopolymer resin colors be mixed?" Tags="|resin|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14394" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14389" CreationDate="2020-09-07T17:13:20.490" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am not aware of a general solution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For your specific issue, try rotating the object 90 degrees around the z-axis.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6479" LastActivityDate="2020-09-07T17:13:20.490" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14395" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14392" CreationDate="2020-09-07T17:51:30.890" Score="2" Body="&lt;h1&gt;Yes and No at the same time&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First of all, yes, you can mix resins. However, you should only mix resins that are of the same makeup, as in one brand and type. Why? because different types of resin have different compositions and different polymerization types. Mixing different types can result in unpredictable behavior, and not working at all!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To test, use a tiny amount of your brand and type matched resins and apply to the vat, then print something really tiny, like just 2 or 3 layers of a 20x20x20 mm cube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastActivityDate="2020-09-07T17:51:30.890" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14396" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14361" CreationDate="2020-09-07T20:01:53.880" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Pins are sometimes different between the two shields.  I ran into one a while back... Go over the pin specs for the 1.6 one at a time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Correction: pins are SUPPOSED to be the same.  I've however experienced them not being the same.  I don't know if my 1.3s were the oddballs or if the 1.6 was.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23523" LastEditorUserId="23523" LastEditDate="2020-09-07T22:05:44.113" LastActivityDate="2020-09-07T22:05:44.113" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14397" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-09-07T20:59:01.030" Score="3" ViewCount="541" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got a direct drive extruder printer, that I have equipped with a Bowden-tube to give it a nice and defined filament path from my spool and to protect it from moisture when it exits my drybox. I've noticed that this 1 m Bowden tube adds quite a bit of friction to the system. I am keenly aware of it as feeding filament form the drybox into the tube by hand is quite a chore already, especially with high friction materials like PETG. Also I notice that I can sustain only lower volumetric flow without skipping or underextrusion after adding the tube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I figured, why not have a motor on both sides of the bowden tube? A big and heavy one at the entrance, providing a baseline pressure on the filament. And a comparatively light one on the other end, adding that fine control you want for your retraction, rather than trying to implement that via a 1 m wet noodle full of static friction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Seems like it would give you the best of both worlds. Not quite as light as a full Bowden system, but you could have all the control of a direct drive system, with much less of the weight/flow rate tradeoff.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyone aware of this being done before? Or any good arguments as to why it is a stupid idea? Seems like a fairly straightforward mod; in the simplest implementation, just add an additional extruder of the same spec on the other side of your Bowden tube, and split the control signal to be the same amongst both motors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18698" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-09-08T08:11:16.633" LastActivityDate="2020-09-08T08:44:11.197" Title="Bowden-direct hybrid" Tags="|bowden|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14398" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-09-07T21:33:33.913" Score="2" ViewCount="1022" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am looking for a tool to configure various runtime settings of Marlin firmware (e.g. bed leveling) that would be accessible from a computer rather than from the LCD menu on the printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In a slightly similar vein I found &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/akaJes/marlin-config&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this marlin-config tool from github user akaJes&lt;/a&gt;. However, this tool configures build-time settings of the firmware (e.g. which menus to include in the first place into the build) whereas I'm looking for something that controls the settings and printer when the firmware has already been uploaded.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main goal in my search is discoverability - I know I can find the appropriate G-codes for whatever I want to change, but I don't necessarily always know in advance that a given setting exists in the first place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23524" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-09-08T08:49:01.557" LastActivityDate="2020-09-08T08:49:01.557" Title="Is there a convenient GUI tool for configuring Marlin settings?" Tags="|marlin|g-code|software|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14399" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14397" CreationDate="2020-09-07T21:56:43.447" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;A Bowden tube is by design fairly small diameter to match the filament within, constraining the forces applied by the remote extruder mechanism. As you've noted, friction is a consideration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For your application, you would not have to have such a tightly constrained diameter. You could use a Bowden tube for 2.85 mm filament, if your direct drive extruder is made for 1.75 mm filament.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'd have the environmental control of the smaller tube, the path control and all of the other benefits, but none (or little) of the friction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally, you would not have the complexity of managing retraction or synchronizing feed that a dual motor system presents.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-09-08T08:12:20.593" LastActivityDate="2020-09-08T08:12:20.593" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14400" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14397" CreationDate="2020-09-08T08:20:20.083" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a similar setup with one of my printers (that is using 1.75 mm filament), this answer is therefore my own experience with guiding tubes from spool to extruder (my previous was a direct drive extruder, the latter uses a Bowden setup, but both with a tube leading up to the extruder).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Initially I used smaller diameter tubing (inner diameter of 2 and 3 mm, that is commonly used for Bowden setups for respectively for 1.75 mm and 2.85 mm filament), but when I changed to 4 mm inner diameter (and 6 mm outer diameter) all friction was gone. The benefit of using 4 mm inner diameter is that it fits over the 2/4 mm ID/OD tubes, and as such I slide the larger inner diameter tube over a piece of 4 mm outer diameter, forme, this also simplifies feeding the filament to the extruder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-09-08T08:44:11.197" LastActivityDate="2020-09-08T08:44:11.197" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14401" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-09-08T10:40:38.677" Score="0" ViewCount="423" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am planning to print some large structural components, and I intend to form them by glueing together a number of printed parts, and skinning those with composites. In other words this plastic needs to bond well to epoxy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the optimal material here? My logic makes me arrive at fiber-reinforced PC as the only good choice. But please point out to me if my logic goes wrong somewhere.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PETG/PP/PA/ABS/ASA are all out of the window. I want this to bond well using run off the mill laminating epoxy. And by 'bond well' I dont mean 'cant pull it off with the first try with my fingers', but I mean I want the glue bond to be about as strong as the underlying material, and that just isnt going to happen with any of the above. I know that for every plastic there is some $100 a tube toxic goop you can get to stick with a few dozen steps of surface prep; but im not going to use that as a laminating resin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Moreover, I want a fiber reinforced material. Not for the strength per se, but for minimum warp. When printing multiple 30x30cm pieces, I want them to slide together without gaps (or the gaps I designed into it); and if the piece as designed was intended to be straight after assembly, i want to to be straight after assembly. Its frustratingly hard to find quantitative information on warping properties. But polycarbonate without fiber reinforcement does not fit the bill, thats for sure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Plain PLA might be another decent option. I cant find much quantitative information about bonding it to epoxy, but at least its not a known no-go. There is some worry about the heat of curing the composites deforming the PLA though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PVB might be another good bet. Easy to print with, and great at bonding. Might be sensitive to solvents in your laminating resin though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course all other criteria for a nice filament apply as well; consistent extrusion, layer adhesion, all that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is CF-PC the way to go? I see very little in the way of reviews about CF-PC; it does not seem to be that popular a combination, which is a bad sign, but I cannot discern much reason for it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18698" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2020-09-08T14:34:38.610" LastActivityDate="2020-09-08T14:34:38.610" Title="Best filament for epoxy bonded structural parts" Tags="|filament-choice|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14402" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14405" CreationDate="2020-09-09T09:47:39.040" Score="2" ViewCount="4490" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are tons of fancy filaments around. And a lot are super nice to look at or have super cool properties, like carbon-filled nylon being comparatively far stronger than other material, wood fill is aesthetically pleasing and even just Glow in the dark! But a maker space nearby just banned any of those as &lt;em&gt;abrasive&lt;/em&gt; filament. But, how can I know if my filament is abrasive?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2020-11-06T11:20:53.887" LastActivityDate="2020-11-06T11:20:53.887" Title="How do I know if a filament is abrasive?" Tags="|filament-choice|knowledgebase|filled-pla|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14403" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-09-09T12:06:58.863" Score="0" ViewCount="109" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hello I am building a clone of Prusa MK2. So I connected all the connections to the RAMPS 1.4 shield. I used Pronterface successfully to set the temperature of bed, but it did not heat up... So I tested the RAMPS D8 D9 connectors which showed 2 volts and D10 measures 12 volts. I replaced the MOSFETs and now it shows 4 volts. I also tested my heated bed. The + and - terminals measure 2.2-2.3 Ohms, and the multimeter beeps when I test for continuity and measures 0.5 Ohm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can someone help me what the issues are?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OIiTm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OIiTm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fzJaO.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fzJaO.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23541" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-09-09T13:45:54.633" LastActivityDate="2020-09-09T13:45:54.633" Title="Heated bed is not heating up" Tags="|heated-bed|ramps-1.4|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14405" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14402" CreationDate="2020-09-09T13:47:30.100" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;A filament made of pure plastic won't be abrasive. The abrasion comes from the added particles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Filaments with added particles of any kind (there are not so many after all: glass/carbon fibres, metals, glow in the dark, wood, stone) will usually be always be advertised as such because they always carry a higher price tag compared to the plain plastic, therefore you know that it contains potentially abrasive particles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you know that particles are added, most of the time they will be abrasive: as far as I know, only cork is not, any other kind of particles I listed (including wood particles) may easily scratch brass.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it were your printer, we could discuss how much each kind of particles will abrade, but in your case the ban seems to be complete, therefore only plain plastics (including &amp;quot;plus/+/Pro&amp;quot; blends, like for PLA and ABS) are allowed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2338" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2020-11-06T09:49:59.337" LastActivityDate="2020-11-06T09:49:59.337" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14406" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3866" CreationDate="2020-09-09T13:52:31.143" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Polyoxymethylene (POM) filament (known as Delrin or acetal) is &lt;a href=&quot;https://all3dp.com/2/delrin-3d-printing-filament/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;suited&lt;/a&gt; to applications involving chemicals: it is chemically resistant to solvents, hydrocarbons, and neutral chemicals.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2338" LastActivityDate="2020-09-09T13:52:31.143" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14407" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11605" CreationDate="2020-09-09T18:48:38.990" Score="1" Body="&lt;h1&gt;It's not feasible as described with normal FDM technology.&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;FDM bases on depositing material in a single path. This needs the deposited material to stay at the same XY coordinates for subsequent paths. And exactly here is where a floating piece fails: a free-floating piece is by its very definition unrestricted in XY, and would move to follow the nozzle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are is also a whole plethora of factors that make this idea not feasible with the standard technology, meaning you'll have to develop the whole process, not just recombine two ideas. This means, you need to solve the following issues:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Heatsink Water&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The extruded plastic needs to stay close to the melting point for some time, so it can fuse and bond with the lines next to them. However, water is known to be a very good method to get the heat away from items, as each liter of water can take about 4.1 MJ and only heat by one Kelvin. PLA on the other hand only stores about &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.makeitfrom.com/material-properties/Polylactic-Acid-PLA-Polylactide&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;1.8 MJ per Kilogram and Kelvin&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a back of the envelope calculation, the temperature differential between room temperature and printing temperature PLA is about 180 Kelvin. Each gram of PLA is equivalent to 319.8 mm of filament (assuming a density of 1.3 g/cm³) or an extruded line of 9.6 kilometer length of 0.4 mm width and 0.2 mm height! That one gram contains about 324 Joules of energy that will be dispersed to the room temperature as it cools down. The water vat would not even get measurably warmer from sucking those few joules from a whole print!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While this could be, in the right setup, be used to rapidly cool the print and &lt;em&gt;solidify&lt;/em&gt; it in shape, the result of the rapid healing will most likely also impact print quality negatively, as cross-layer bonding is reduced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Separator water&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is a well-known trick in creating polymer fibers to extrude underwater, as the water not only cools (see above) but also acts as a separator between the fibers, for the very short timeframe they are still malleable. This would also strike when printing into the water - there'll be a water layer in between the deposited filament, which would need to either get pressed out or cooked out before any cross-extrusion bonding can occur. As a result, just extruding into the water should result in a print that has almost no sturdiness, and might fall apart on touch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Floating&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Water has a density of 1 g/cm³. PLA has a density of 1.3 g/cm³. So a solid chunk of PLA sinks. But we don't print solid, we include air. Not just a few percent but infill is usually below 20 %. I have just printed a cube. After smoothing the surface by sanding, the cube is 29,7x29.9x29.9 mm. It has 3 parameters, 20% infill, 5 top and bottom layers with 0.2 mm layer height and comes to 11 grams. 11 g/26.55 cm³=0.41 g/cm³. Or in other words: the cube would float, about 40 % under the water surface, 60 % above the surface. The print would be, as a result, quickly break the water surface and get no support from the water at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Submerging the bed?&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main issue of a free-floating object (position) might be mitigated if there was a bed that would be submerged, but one would open a new can of worms, that might be even worse: the volume of the print and the accuracy of pumps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As the print goes on - quality be dammed - the print grows in volume. However, it doesn't grow entirely linear, depending on two factors:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is the print happening on/below the water surface? Then we will include water in the print. The volumetric growth of the print is in this case just the deposited filament. You'll need an overflow to compensate for the print growing and keep the water level in position.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is the print happening &lt;em&gt;just above&lt;/em&gt; the surface of the water? then the displaced volume grows according to the depth of the print in the water. This would mitigate most of the problems from water preventing cross-bonding and causing floating, and even use the heatsink properties more beneficial, as any filament starting to sag will be stopped. It also would prevent water from being encased in the print. However, it does not use surface tension. Also, you'll need an overflow system to keep the water level steady.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2020-09-10T09:27:11.223" LastActivityDate="2020-09-10T09:27:11.223" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14409" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11640" CreationDate="2020-09-10T01:12:55.210" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I read this question a few months ago, and thought I knew what you wanted.  Re-reading it now confuses me a little.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But, I think you may be asking for a large, flat surface with a spiral in it, like the tightening mechanism in a 3-jaw chuck.  In effect, are you using the large cylinder as a worm gear to drive four gears which ride on it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I thought you wanted more general bevel gears, and today I found a package in OpenSCAD that looks quite good.  it is found at: &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/dpellegr/PolyGear&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://github.com/dpellegr/PolyGear&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this is the answer you were looking for, great.  If not, please comment here and I will delete this answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2082" LastActivityDate="2020-09-10T01:12:55.210" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14410" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10712" CreationDate="2020-09-10T12:38:23.540" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is possible to buy cheap high temperature steppers. E.g., you can buy &lt;a href=&quot;https://hightemp3d.com/collections/high-temperature-3d-printer-parts&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;LDO 180 °C winding steppers&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They can be used up to 135 °C without additional cooling and with reduced lifetime probably even higher.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23562" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-09-10T13:02:29.543" LastActivityDate="2020-09-10T13:02:29.543" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14411" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14295" CreationDate="2020-09-10T13:29:18.040" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are several possible causes for this. From least to worst:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The part itself is good, but the faceing cover plate is misaligned. No action needed.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The part is mounted in a way that makes it wobble, re-mounting helps.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The part is bad and needs to be replaced.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, let's see the anatomy of a Timing Belt pulley. They exist in basically 3 general types in the McMaster Carr catalog: One flange, two flanges, no flanges. I am not affiliated with them, but they are pretty much one of the parts vendors in the industry that has almost everything, making them the &lt;em&gt;convenience&lt;/em&gt; option. In the mantra, they are the &amp;quot;fast-good&amp;quot; option with the &amp;quot;everything&amp;quot; bonus and that the catalog of parts with 3D is integrated into fusion360. A similar supplier would be RS.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1llaS.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1llaS.png&quot; alt=&quot;MXL pulleys, McMaster Carr Catalog&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.mcmaster.com/timing-belt-pulleys/for-maximum-belt-width%7E6-mm/for-shaft-diameter%7E5mm/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wdTk6.png&quot; alt=&quot;The fitting part, one-flanged variant.&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The part OP ordered is the &amp;quot;With One Flange&amp;quot; design, it is 6mm wide, 5mm axle and 16 teeth. The McMaster Carr catalog has two very close matches to OP's part: 3684N11 &amp;amp; 3684N12, about 6$ for a part machined from a solid piece. Why is that relevant?! well, the part OP ordered is not made from a solid piece but at least two parts: the body and one flange plate, as you can see on the product picture - the plate separation I marked with yellow here:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IX5Sd.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IX5Sd.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is where the first error appears: if the flange isn't mounted centered (in poor quality it is rarely) then it appears to wobble but actually doesn't. But the video shows that the axis seems to be straight, while both the front &lt;em&gt;and&lt;/em&gt; backside of the pulley wobble in the XY position. This means it is not just the flange that is mis-mounted on the part.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, error number 2 is misaligned mounting. In case the bore is good, you can often fix a misalignment by removing the part and mounting it again, more carefully, possibly using some thin shim metal around the axis. In some cases there is a pair of screws already to do this, if not it can help to modify the part with one or two extra alignment screws, allowing to sift the gear's center a slight bit by tensioning the additional screws.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the case of &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.banggood.com/Anet-GT2-Pulley-16-Teeth-Bore-5MM-Timing-Gear-Alumium-For-GT2-Belt-Width-6MM-3D-Printer-Accessories-p-1036136.html?rmmds=myorder&amp;amp;cur_warehouse=CN&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;OP's linked part&lt;/a&gt;, the screw that is not radial but protrudes next to the axis is designed to come over the flat of the axis and the other one is to tighten it down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the bore for the axis however is really skewed, and even after repeated re-mounting or shimming nothing can be done, a new part is needed. With the measurements of the part, you can order at a lot of online catalogs, the price and quality differ greatly. However, the engineering mantra strikes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.pyragraph.com/2013/05/good-fast-cheap-you-can-only-pick-two/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Cheap&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.business.com/articles/fast-good-cheap-pick-three/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Fast&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.hexacta.com/software-development-good-fast-cheap/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Good. Choose two.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QJ9Az.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QJ9Az.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2020-09-10T15:08:58.413" LastActivityDate="2020-09-10T15:08:58.413" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14413" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-09-10T23:05:14.730" Score="0" ViewCount="93" Body="&lt;p&gt;My printer currently has issues printing supports of multiple objects. The support gets smushed around the printbed after a while. I’ve attached a picture of the failed support.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I’ve tried lowering and raising the first layer height but it doesn’t seem to have effect. Also I’ve tried raising the heated bed to 70 degree.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How could it happen that it’s pushing the supports around?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I’m using a 0.25 mm nozzle, bed heated at 70 or 60 °C, nozzle at 210 or 215 °C, layer height lowered 0.050 and raised 0.050. I use 7x7 mesh bed leveling. Reran calibration wizard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rVMzg.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Printer fail support&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rVMzg.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Printer fail support&quot; title=&quot;Printer fail support&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23566" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2020-09-11T08:36:43.690" LastActivityDate="2020-09-11T08:36:43.690" Title="Prusa i3 MK3S supports fail to print on bed" Tags="|support-structures|print-failure|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14414" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-09-11T19:06:27.057" Score="1" ViewCount="253" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently got an ender 3.&#xA;It was working well for 2 prints. I managed to print two small items which were upgrades for the printer (filament guide and cable clip).&#xA;Following this, I tried to print some larger designs and I noticed it began shifting the layers on the x-axis...&#xA;How do I fix it? &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OsjOm.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OsjOm.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23575" LastActivityDate="2020-09-11T19:06:27.057" Title="Ender 3 Layer Shifting" Tags="|print-quality|creality-ender-3|diy-3d-printer|layer-shifting|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14415" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-09-12T02:39:02.417" Score="0" ViewCount="455" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently bought 5 spools of white 1.75 mm PLA off Amazon.  However, I experienced some very strange behavior when I started to print with it.  First, the filament wouldn't stick to the print bed.  I'd had no such trouble with the past several batches of filament (all from different makers, I think - my usual supplier is closed for COVID), but this filament refused to stick - or rather, it failed partway through three consecutive prints.  I squished the first layer into the bed, but it didn't help.  Not sure what else to do, I applied glue stick to my print bed (despite having a special print surface that has worked quite well on its own for over a year).  Well, it worked - too well.  The next print adhered firmly to the print bed, and applying pliers and a vise succeeded only in explosively shattering the parts, leaving most of the bottom few mm still stuck fast to the print surface.  I finally managed to remove the remains by letting it cool, then heating the bed quickly to ~75 °C and applying steady moderate torque with pliers for 5-15 seconds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That was not a desirable outcome, so I cleaned the print surface with water and then alcohol.  Unfortunately, the next print I did had the same problem, and snapped during attempted removal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This leads into the second, somewhat more fundamental problem with this filament - I don't have numbers, but it seems way more brittle, and a little weaker, than the average filament.  The parts I printed were ones I've printed before, and they generally hold up to more abuse than the ones I've printed with this new filament.  If I had to put a number on it - the new filament has maybe 50 %-75 % of the strength of most filament I've used, and/or is 150 % as brittle?  Yeah - I just tried to shave off an edge with a deburring tool, and rather than form nice little plastic curls, it crackled and shot tiny chips of plastic.  (Except for one corner, which was well behaved &lt;em&gt;some&lt;/em&gt; of the time?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can anyone diagnose my filament from these symptoms?  Is there something I can do to fix it (e.g. bake it for 8 hours or whatever), or should I just return it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10790" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-09-12T06:17:14.873" LastActivityDate="2020-09-12T06:17:14.873" Title="New filament makes brittle prints" Tags="|troubleshooting|filament-quality|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14417" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-09-12T18:47:13.290" Score="1" ViewCount="216" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have installed Cura on my RPI 4 by using the &amp;quot;sudo apt-get install cura&amp;quot; terminal command.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whenever I try to run the application, however, I get this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nrMVy.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nrMVy.png&quot; alt=&quot;Cura running on RPI crashes&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there something wrong with the configuration files? I have tried clicking the &amp;quot;Backup and reset configuration&amp;quot;, and even deleting the configuration files folder. But it doesn't help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23125" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-09-15T06:05:02.070" LastActivityDate="2020-09-15T06:05:02.070" Title="&quot;configuration files&quot; issue when trying to run Ultimaker Cura on RPI 4" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|raspberry-pi|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14418" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14453" CreationDate="2020-09-13T05:44:54.303" Score="1" ViewCount="4540" Body="&lt;p&gt;The printer I am working on is an Artillery Sidewinder X1.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have fitted it with a 3DTouch (BLTouch clone) bed leveling probe purchased from Bangood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have printed a mount for it and plugged it into the main board. Once that was done, I edited the firmware and enabled all settings for the 3DTouch roughly following the directions from Teaching Tech's video &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sUlqrSq6LeY&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here.&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;After flashing the firmware, an error message appears on every boot saying:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Failed to enable Bed Leveling&#xA;echo: Bed Leveling off echo:&#xA;Fade Height Off ok&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After pressing confirm, ABL routine does not work. It homes the X-axis, then the Y-axis, deploys and stows the 3DTouch probe once. It also will show an error message for a split second (so I am unable to know what it says) the comes up with an EEPROM message.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Auto homing does the same thing as ABL routine but with a different error:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;STOP called because of BLTouch&#xA;error - restart with M999&#xA;Error:Printer stopped due to errors.&#xA;Fix the error and use&#xA;M999 to restart. (Temperature&#xA;is reset. Set it after res[e]t&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have also zipped up my Marlin firmware configuration I am currently using. They can be found here: &lt;a href=&quot;https://drive.google.com/file/d/1yyqZGCIfUeY0QV9oFfd2kbMpiZjwPLaY/view?usp=sharing&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My servo pin is connected to D11 and my two wire pin is connected to the ZMAX endstop. Here is a diagram:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sYWla.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sYWla.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;3DTouch Wiring&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23583" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-09-16T08:42:15.830" LastActivityDate="2021-02-21T03:39:04.960" Title="Artillery Sidewinder X1 3DTouch not working" Tags="|marlin|firmware|bed-leveling|3dtouch|artillery-sidewinder-x1|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14419" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-09-13T14:09:28.113" Score="1" ViewCount="350" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Monoprice MP10 with magnetic flexible paper coated build plate and I have just tried printing bed level test which is, of necessity, very thin on the build plate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Watching the item print, I saw that the bed level was obviously way way off at the back left corner and down the left side. I was printing with PLA. There was no point in letting the print continue so I stopped it, let the build plate cool down and tried to remove the print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bottom line and right hand side came off cleanly but the top left corner and all down the left side stuck firmly. As it was so thin a layer there is no chance of getting something underneath an edge without damaging the paper surface. I tried acetone but this had no effect other than turning the surface white and thin cracks appearing in the paper surface. Wiped down with alcohol which toned down the white but was no help in getting the thin layer of PLA off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried reheating surface, no joy. Does anyone have a foolproof way of getting this off as soap and water don't work either?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23585" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2020-09-13T17:35:47.930" LastActivityDate="2021-11-13T11:02:01.630" Title="Removing test print from magnetic flexible paper coated build plate" Tags="|adhesion|monoprice-mp-10|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14420" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14156" CreationDate="2020-09-13T19:21:19.697" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The picture looks as if there is a printed back surface to which the central part is attached.  This can not be the case, since otherwise the curved members would not be able to flex.  Everything inside the outer ring must be detached from the back shell.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Like all couplers, especially flexible couplers, there is a limit to the amount of torque the coupler can transmit.  Within the elastic limits of the material this looks like a good design, and a good match for 3D printing.  The forces are along the layers, not across the layers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This looks like a good design for a rotary coupler.  I'm resisting calling it a &amp;quot;shaft&amp;quot; coupler since neither side is equipped with any connection to a shaft.  One could modify the design to have a larger central hub with a shaft hole (and set screw(s)).  As it is, there is an implied method to hold the outer ring, and a fairly explicit three-pin adapter to drop into the open slots in the arms which connect to the center.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would use ABS rather than PLA, although it depends on the stiffness you require and ability to sustein abuse.  PLA is stiller than ABS, while ABS, within the elastic limits, is more compliant.  I am not confident that either of these plastics would stand up to thousands of millions of flexures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would prefer to print this of TPU or Nylon.  Both of these are tougher than ABS and PLA.  They withstand greater flex with fewer problems with micro cracks and degradation.  I have printed another shaft coupler of TPU, and it was both compliant and still.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It isn't possible to really nail down a material without knowing the application.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As to your question about one example being a transform of the other, I don't thing they are.  The A and B drawings are similar in function, but are not stressed and unstressed versions of the same part.  Either will work as a coupler.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2082" LastActivityDate="2020-09-13T19:21:19.697" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14421" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-09-13T19:46:38.543" Score="2" ViewCount="1566" Body="&lt;p&gt;Im using Prusa Slicer 2.1 for my FlyingBear Ghost 4.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I just changed my 0.4 mm nozzle for a 0.2 mm but it seems to jam in the heater probably due to too much filament trying to get out by the nozzle. Where is the setting to reduce the filement speed and how much I should reduce it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are my settings:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://drive.google.com/file/d/1j_RsFQI1EtfSzptggYjGehpdlJlX7rsK/view?usp=sharing&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Config.txt&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18678" LastEditorUserId="18678" LastEditDate="2020-09-14T17:16:06.257" LastActivityDate="2020-09-15T19:32:07.197" Title="Passing from nozzle diameter 0.4 mm to 0.2 mm causing filament jamming in heater" Tags="|filament|nozzle|flyingbear-ghost-4|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14422" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14421" CreationDate="2020-09-13T21:23:12.693" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;0.2 mm and 0.4 mm are half the diameter, but the maximum flow is not just half: Flow scales with the area. The 0.4 mm nozzle has an area 4 times as the 0.2 mm one:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$\frac{A_1} {A_2}=\frac {0.2^2}{0.1^2}=4$&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You need to reduce &lt;code&gt;print speed&lt;/code&gt; or the &lt;code&gt;volumetric flow&lt;/code&gt; by this factor or make sure your printer can handle the increased flow by reducing the viscosity of the melt - for example by increasing the print temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also note, that a 0.2 mm nozzle can't be operated with layer heights above 0.15 mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2020-09-14T18:44:42.383" LastActivityDate="2020-09-14T18:44:42.383" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14423" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-09-13T22:01:54.347" Score="2" ViewCount="4326" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was watching a friend's Prusa run the bed-probe routine and I realized how pathetically slow mine is and takes forever. I want to speed it up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What parameters in Marlin's &lt;code&gt;Configuration.h&lt;/code&gt; do I modify? Also, it seems to retract for the second &amp;quot;accurate&amp;quot; probe by like 10 mm which could be reduced by 8 mm or so. Where is that one? I looked through but can't be sure. Also, could I just change the feedrate in the pre-script?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#define DEFAULT_MAX_FEEDRATE { 300, 300, 8, 50 }    // was { 400, 400, 8, 50 }&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23588" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-09-14T06:04:28.653" LastActivityDate="2023-07-02T15:03:45.440" Title="Bed probing feed rates" Tags="|marlin|bed-leveling|z-probe|speed|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14425" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14423" CreationDate="2020-09-14T06:22:27.150" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;To speed up the probing for a touch sensor, a &amp;quot;High Speed&amp;quot; option is available in &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/blob/2.0.x/Marlin/Configuration_adv.h&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Configuration_adv.h&lt;/a&gt; which is by default disabled (&lt;code&gt;//#define BLTOUCH_HS_MODE&lt;/code&gt;) as not all printers/sensors are able to use this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also increase the homing speeds in your &lt;code&gt;Configuration.h&lt;/code&gt; file.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;// Homing speeds (mm/min)&#xA;#define HOMING_FEEDRATE_XY (50*60)&#xA;#define HOMING_FEEDRATE_Z  (4*60)&#xA;&#xA;.&#xA;..&#xA;...&#xA;..&#xA;.&#xA;// Feedrate (mm/min) for the first approach when double-probing (MULTIPLE_PROBING == 2)&#xA;#define Z_PROBE_SPEED_FAST HOMING_FEEDRATE_Z&#xA;&#xA;// Feedrate (mm/min) for the &amp;quot;accurate&amp;quot; probe of each point&#xA;#define Z_PROBE_SPEED_SLOW (Z_PROBE_SPEED_FAST / 2)&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, you can simply speed up the movement between probe locations by setting the movement speed directly through G-code. The &lt;code&gt;G29&lt;/code&gt; code, used for automatic probing of the bed surface is described in &lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#G29_Auto_Bed_Leveling_.28Marlin_-_MK4duo.29&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&amp;quot;G29 Auto Bed Leveling (Marlin - MK4duo)&amp;quot;&lt;/a&gt;. The &lt;code&gt;S&lt;/code&gt; parameter in &lt;code&gt;G29&lt;/code&gt; can be used to set the movement speed between probes, where the units are specified in &amp;quot;units/min&amp;quot;, e.g. mm/min.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that you potentially can change the Z-height for deployment:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;/**&#xA; * Z probes require clearance when deploying, stowing, and moving between&#xA; * probe points to avoid hitting the bed and other hardware.&#xA; * Servo-mounted probes require extra space for the arm to rotate.&#xA; * Inductive probes need space to keep from triggering early.&#xA; *&#xA; * Use these settings to specify the distance (mm) to raise the probe (or&#xA; * lower the bed). The values set here apply over and above any (negative)&#xA; * probe Z Offset set with NOZZLE_TO_PROBE_OFFSET, M851, or the LCD.&#xA; * Only integer values &amp;gt;= 1 are valid here.&#xA; *&#xA; * Example: `M851 Z-5` with a CLEARANCE of 4  =&amp;gt;  9mm from bed to nozzle.&#xA; *     But: `M851 Z+1` with a CLEARANCE of 2  =&amp;gt;  2mm from bed to nozzle.&#xA; */&#xA;#define Z_CLEARANCE_DEPLOY_PROBE   10 // Z Clearance for Deploy/Stow&#xA;#define Z_CLEARANCE_BETWEEN_PROBES  5 // Z Clearance between probe points&#xA;#define Z_CLEARANCE_MULTI_PROBE     5 // Z Clearance between multiple probes&#xA;//#define Z_AFTER_PROBING           5 // Z position after probing is done&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-02-12T09:04:07.940" LastActivityDate="2021-02-12T09:04:07.940" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14426" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-09-14T09:36:25.420" Score="3" ViewCount="349" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm having issues with retraction. My printer prints very well normally, but has an intermittent problem with retraction: the retraction itself always happens, but sometimes the subsequent recovery just doesn't take place, which obviously results in gaps in the extrusion. I'm running out of diagnostics to try - can anyone suggest what might be causing this? I have:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Removed the stepper from the extruder so it's free running&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Changed the driver board (to a newer design, although both are based on the TMC2130)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Reseated all the connectors&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Switched off the driver's &amp;quot;StealthChop&amp;quot; function in favour of the fallback &amp;quot;SpreadCycle&amp;quot;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tried G-code produced in Prusa Slicer and known good code from Cura (taken from a retraction test &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2563909&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;put up on Thingiverse&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Updated Marlin from 2.0.4.4 to 2.0.6.1&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The machine is a Creality Ender 3, although the previous owner (who has reported no problems when he was using it; he's a friend, not an anonymous eBay seller) replaced the board with an MKS Gen L and the drivers with Big Tree Tech TMC2130s in SPI mode. The extruder stepper is the stock Creality model.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other relevant settings:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;VRef on extruder driver is 0.875 V. As far as I can make out, the maximum suggested for these motors is 1.0 V&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Extruder current is firmware set to 900 mA&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Maximum feed rate for &lt;code&gt;E&lt;/code&gt; is set in firmware to 25 mm/s, which I think is fairly low&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;code&gt;DEFAULT_MAX_ACCELERATION&lt;/code&gt; is set to 5000 mm/s&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;, but &lt;code&gt;DEFAULT_RETRACT_ACCELERATION&lt;/code&gt; is set to 500 mm/s&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; and (with no &lt;code&gt;M204&lt;/code&gt; instructions in the G-code) I would presume this takes precedence&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm tearing my hair out here! Most of the changes I listed above had no effect, but I would say that the change to SpreadCycle for the driver reduced the occurrence and it seems to be more prevalent when the retraction distance is increased (4 mm is worse than 2 mm). The thing that's really confusing is the lack of symmetry - retractions &lt;em&gt;always&lt;/em&gt; work, feeding forwards during printing &lt;em&gt;always&lt;/em&gt; works, but feeding forwards during recovery &lt;em&gt;sometimes&lt;/em&gt; doesn't - the stepper just doesn't turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can increase the VRef or current, reduce the retraction speed and acceleration further and perhaps one of these will be the answer, but I'd like, ideally, to understand what's going wrong so I can target my fix. Does anyone have any ideas?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After comment discussion on overheating drivers, I measured a steady temperature of 77 °C with a thermistor pushed to the bottom of the stepper driver's heatsink fins. Is this expected or could it represent an overheating problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit 2&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It turns out that the terminal is periodically printing a message indicating there may be a problem with the driver temperature (e.g. &lt;code&gt;2020-09-14 23:22:15,877 - Recv: 00:00: E driver overtemperature warning! (900mA)&lt;/code&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If there is a continuing problem, the stepper current should be throttled automatically, which is not happening. Nor is the actual overtemperature error condition being reached, because if this happened, the driver should completely shut down until it cools 25 °C and I believe Marlin should abandon the print at this point. Neither of these things seems to be happening, but perhaps the raised temperature is causing my stepper issues, nonetheless.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23592" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2022-07-03T14:59:05.413" LastActivityDate="2022-07-03T14:59:05.413" Title="Retraction fine but recovery occasionally just doesn't happen" Tags="|marlin|creality-ender-3|retraction|tmc2130|mks|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="15" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14427" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-09-14T10:28:16.200" Score="0" ViewCount="315" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a problem with the grid infill on my &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.bcn3d.com/dual-paste-extruder-last-of-the-upgrades-for-the-bcn3d/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;BCN3D+ Dual Paste extruder&lt;/a&gt;: when I print a structure the lines of the infill are not evenly printed, every two lines the gap between the lines is higher (see the photo) while in the Simplify printing preview (preview image) the space between the infill lines is the same all the time. Do someone know if it can be a problem of the printer or a Simplify command?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1CD1D.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1CD1D.png&quot; alt=&quot;Simplify preview&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vXlfl.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vXlfl.png&quot; alt=&quot;printing&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23564" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2020-09-23T18:42:31.790" LastActivityDate="2024-02-06T02:08:35.913" Title="Problem with grid infill (line positioning)" Tags="|print-quality|infill|paste-extruder|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14428" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14421" CreationDate="2020-09-14T17:49:47.303" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here's where you change the speed in Prusa:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FYF4a.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FYF4a.png&quot; alt=&quot;Changing Speed in Prusa&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As Trish said, you're likely trying to push too much material through too fast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Steps you can take:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Increase print temp&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Decrease print speed&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Slice for thinner layers&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Don't forget to adjust your nozzle diameter and/or extrusion width(s) as well.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd personally start with increasing my print temp 10 degrees and cutting my print speed in half, as well as making sure I had 0.2 mm nozzle and extrusion widths.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4922" LastEditorUserId="4922" LastEditDate="2020-09-14T19:50:03.260" LastActivityDate="2020-09-14T19:50:03.260" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14429" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-09-14T19:16:01.870" Score="1" ViewCount="1516" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have recently set up my Ender 3 with an SKR MINI E3 V1.2 and a BLTouch which I have been using for a while. After many troubles with compiling the firmware, I managed to compile and upload the firmware; enabling BLTouch and changing the settings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've seen it somewhere (I can't remember where) and I think it's correct, but if you go:&#xA;&lt;code&gt;Motion -&amp;gt; Bed Levelling -&amp;gt; Level Bed&lt;/code&gt;, it should run an auto bed leveling sequence. The same should happen if you use &lt;code&gt;G29&lt;/code&gt;.&#xA;If I use the control knob and LCD, my Ender 3 will level the bed manually. It does this by moving to one corner, you manually adjust the height using the knob and then move to another corner and repeat multiple times.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you look in the Marlin source code:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;/**&#xA; * The &amp;quot;Manual Probe&amp;quot; provides a means to do &amp;quot;Auto&amp;quot; Bed Leveling without a probe.&#xA; * Use G29 repeatedly, adjusting the Z height at each point with movement commands&#xA; * or (with LCD_BED_LEVELING) the LCD controller.&#xA; */&#xA;//#define PROBE_MANUALLY&#xA;//#define MANUAL_PROBE_START_Z 0.2&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That is &lt;em&gt;exactly&lt;/em&gt; what happens yet as you can see, it is commented out. If I run &lt;code&gt;G29&lt;/code&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;&amp;gt;&amp;gt;&amp;gt; G29&#xA;SENDING:G29&#xA;Mesh Bed Leveling has no data.&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It confirms the fact that it wants me to do it manually because it is clearly trying to get previous mesh data rather than level the bed, which means I would have to do it manually.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I cannot find any other settings that would affect this, only what is already commented out, yet it still happens. Could anyone help out here?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23598" LastEditorUserId="14562" LastEditDate="2020-09-19T22:08:27.230" LastActivityDate="2020-09-19T22:08:27.230" Title="Printer is using BLTouch to home but it is not using it to auto level" Tags="|marlin|creality-ender-3|bltouch|skr-mini-e3|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14430" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14421" CreationDate="2020-09-14T21:00:55.817" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The discussion about slowing the print speed is important, but in my experience it is not at the root of the problem, and slowing down printing may make it worse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If ny &amp;quot;heater&amp;quot; you mean the complete hot-end, then I suspect you are jamming in the cooler part of the hot-end.  This cooler part is separated from the heater itself by the heat break, which is often a thin-walled metal tube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The hot side of the heat break is heated by the heater.  The cooler-end, the cool side of the heat break, is cooled by two things:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;cold filament being moved through it and&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;airflow from the fan over the heat sink fins.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is heated by:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Thermal conduction through the thin metal tube&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Convection airflow from the hot-end vertically and over the cooler-end&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hot filament being pulled through the heat break during retraction.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you are printing with a smaller cross-section of extruded filament, the slicer program should adjust the flow rate and speeds based on the lesser volume of plastic extruded for a given pressure.  Unfortunately, this is less plastic, so the filament cools the cooler end of the heat break less than it would if the feed rate were higher.  As a result, the temperature of the cooler end goes up.  If there is insufficient airflow to keep the cooler side below the softening point of filament, the filament softens and jams inside the cooler end.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, if your jam actually is in the hot end, this discussion is not relevant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But, I have found with my Prusa i3m3 that I have had problems with jamming in the cooler end, especially when I printed filament with a higher melting temperature, ABS in this case.  I reduced the area of the airflow so that no air could pass through other than by passing over the heat sink fins, and the ABS printed correctly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All of 3D printing is a balance of one factor against another.  It is hard to lose, though, by increasing the cooler-end temperature.  All will seem well until you print something with a lower flow, or a higher retraction rate, or you try using a higher temperature for the same filament.  Then the jam can unexpectedly occur, or, perhaps worse, it can be an intermittent jam, or there can be a lot to sticktion, and printing becomes prone to gaps, or occasional under extrusion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2082" LastEditorUserId="2082" LastEditDate="2020-09-15T19:32:07.197" LastActivityDate="2020-09-15T19:32:07.197" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14431" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14417" CreationDate="2020-09-15T03:55:48.410" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The regular version of Cura has system requirements that the Raspberry Pi cannot meet, including the GPU required to run it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, it looks like you can try an experimental version of Cura &lt;a href=&quot;https://community.ultimaker.com/topic/28746-experimental-cura-build-for-raspberry-pi-4-now-available/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;here&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23472" LastActivityDate="2020-09-15T03:55:48.410" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14432" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-09-15T09:06:13.393" Score="2" ViewCount="981" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Wanhao Duplicator i3 Plus Mk2. Its auto-leveling never worked properly since I bought it a year or two ago. I decided to upgrade the firmware to try and solve this problem. Unfortunately, I did not know I had a Mk2 when I started this process (I'm a photographer, it is only a Mk2 when it says so on the Camera housing which is seemingly not the case here, you needed to be fortunate to know it is a Mk2 if it has a Z probe). As such, I uploaded the wrong motherboard and LCD firmware (for i3 Plus not i3 Plus Mk2). When I switched on and tried to level, it started driving the nozzle into the bed which in retrospect is to be expected as the firmware is looking for a switch, not a probe. Once I realised what the problem was, I uploaded the Mk2 firmware but it seems uploading the non-Mk2 firmware has confused something somewhere so I can't get it to even be a printer anymore. The LCD is all mixed up with menus over one another and the printer does not react to anything. I tried to format the LCD with the image and procedure on Wanhao's site but this merely seems to exacerbate the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can anyone please guide me on how to start fresh and get the printer and LCD firmware restored so at least I have something resembling a printer again. The Wanhao customer support has been all but helpful and I've abandoned that channel as they simply email me the same firmware I already downloaded and used to get into this mess.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23604" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-09-15T11:00:50.350" LastActivityDate="2020-09-16T11:31:58.333" Title="Wanhao Duplicator i3 Mk2 Firmware Update" Tags="|firmware|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14433" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4982" CreationDate="2020-09-15T12:39:46.840" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some of these questions could be answered by asking manufacturers for MSDS (Material Safety Data Sheets), aka. SDS (Safety Data Sheets).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Under EU laws in place since 2008 any substance shipped into the EEA (European Economic Area) in quantities of more than 1 tonne/year, whose composition contains more than 0.1% by weight of a compound identified in the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.ema.europa.eu/en/human-regulatory/post-authorisation/data-medicines-iso-idmp-standards/public-data-article-57-database&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Article 57 database&lt;/a&gt;, must provide an MSDS on request that includes a breakdown of its content.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you look at the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.esun3d.net/UploadFiles/Download/MSDS_Esun_PLA_PLUS_filament.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;SDS for eSUN's PLA+&lt;/a&gt;, for example you see:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;╔═══════════════════╦═══════════╦═══════════╦═════════════╗&#xA;║ Ingredient Name   ║   CAS No. ║    EC No. ║ Content (%) ║&#xA;╠═══════════════════╬═══════════╬═══════════╬═════════════╣&#xA;║ Polylactide resin ║ 9051-89-2 ║ 618-575-7 ║          98 ║&#xA;║ Calcium carbonate ║  471-34-1 ║ 207-439-9 ║           2 ║&#xA;╚═══════════════════╩═══════════╩═══════════╩═════════════╝&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23607" LastActivityDate="2020-09-15T12:39:46.840" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14434" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4982" CreationDate="2020-09-15T14:57:30.563" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know this is an old question, but CNC Kitchen just recently &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/uAoZCpXoPWo&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;did a review of PLA+&lt;/a&gt; and the mechanical properties of one brand, and found it far weaker than plain PLA, but with failure modes that might be mord graceful/preferable for some applications. In short, it stretched and tore rather than snapping.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2020-09-15T14:57:30.563" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14435" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14436" CreationDate="2020-09-15T18:22:11.730" Score="1" ViewCount="2668" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am using &amp;quot;Pretty PETG&amp;quot; along with PrusaSlicer's consecutive print mode.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I am noticing is that upon finishing the first print, the printer hits &lt;code&gt;MINTEMP BED Fixed&lt;/code&gt;. I'm not sure if it's immediate because I let the prints run overnight but I assume the bed cools down and then the error is hit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm just starting to learn G-code and my initial thought was there's an errant bed temperature instruction but the only &lt;code&gt;M140 S0&lt;/code&gt; instructions I see are in the &lt;code&gt;end_gcode&lt;/code&gt; and near the bottom of the file. Maybe there a &lt;code&gt;goto&lt;/code&gt; in G-code which may be running after &lt;code&gt;M140 S0&lt;/code&gt; which then causes the &lt;code&gt;MINTEMP BED&lt;/code&gt; issue? Perhaps there's something else going on?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23609" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-09-15T20:36:49.773" LastActivityDate="2020-09-18T18:01:02.897" Title="MINTEMP BED Fixed error when running consecutive print" Tags="|prusa-i3|g-code|petg|prusaslicer|prusa-research|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14436" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14435" CreationDate="2020-09-16T11:08:42.950" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The bed minimum temperature is defined in your configuration file, e.g.:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#define BED_MINTEMP        5&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the error is displayed, it means that the measured temperature drops below this level.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I am noticing is that upon finishing the first print&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This could hint to a faulty heatbed connector where the connection is lost because the bed moves to the end positions (hard to say without seeing the end G-code).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically, you could have a connection to bed thermistor that is intermittently failing, or a bad bed thermistor. If connection is lost the temperature defaults to 0 °C or a lower setting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2020-09-16T11:08:42.950" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14437" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14432" CreationDate="2020-09-16T11:21:58.677" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;My problem was resolved with the help of comments above.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A quick Google search shows that there are multiple issues with updating to &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.wanhao3dprinter.com/FAQ/ShowArticle.asp?ArticleID=79&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;new firmware&lt;/a&gt; for printer and LCD (these are separate firmwares!). Useful links are &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinterwiki.info/wanhao-i3-plus-documentation-factory-files/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this one&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/andrivet/Duplicator-i3-Plus-firmware-collection&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this one&lt;/a&gt; which have support for the MkII.&lt;br&gt;...&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Try to disconnect the display if you go down the Arduino route and see if you get it running while connected to serial (USB) and Pronterface for instance. When pursuing the Arduino route, be sure to send &lt;code&gt;M502&lt;/code&gt; and &lt;code&gt;M500&lt;/code&gt; after the flash to the printer to get the values from the firmware and overwrite the current stuff in the EEPROM.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I downloaded the Mk2 firmware from &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/andrivet/Duplicator-i3-Plus-firmware-collection/blob/master/Wanhao-i3-Plus-Mark-II-Firmware-v1.02.zip&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; and then used the normal Wanhao procedure to update both the motherboard and LCD and this left me with a working printer afterwards. Why the firmware downloaded from Wanhao's own site does not work is a mystery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23604" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-09-16T11:31:58.333" LastActivityDate="2020-09-16T11:31:58.333" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14438" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14441" CreationDate="2020-09-16T23:51:57.613" Score="1" ViewCount="867" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a base Creality CR-10 that I have had for 10 months. Since then I have added Z-axis braces and a Z-axis dual lead screw. I have a Filament runout sensor that I want to add and I want to add a BLTouch bed leveling. I know I can probably squeeze those last two upgrades in using the V1.0 board that came with the CR10, but I really want to upgrade boards to the V2.0 that use the TMC2208 drivers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My questions are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Any issues compatibility wise or firmware wise that I might run into while upgrading&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Also I know that the V2.5 board uses Marlin firmware, is that the same firmware that the V1.0 uses&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Is it worth it to upgrade to BLTouch. I have viewed several youtube videos and read several websites/posts on using it but I am not that clear on whether you would have to ever use the manual bed leveling adjustments or does BLTouch take care of that forever?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any insights, comments or links to useful posts/websites very much appreciated!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18796" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-09-17T06:25:40.920" LastActivityDate="2020-09-17T07:12:57.700" Title="Creality CR-10 board upgrade from V1.0 to V2.0 questions" Tags="|marlin|creality-cr-10|bltouch|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14439" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14467" CreationDate="2020-09-17T01:06:18.653" Score="4" ViewCount="335" Body="&lt;p&gt;On 16 September 2020, Autodesk announced changes in the way that Fusion 360 can be used for non-commercial use with their Personal license. As a hobbyist, most of these changes will not affect me very much, since I do not use Fusion 360's advanced features. The most irksome will be only being allowed to have up to ten &amp;quot;documents&amp;quot; active at any one time, the rest having to be archived.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, Autodesk are also restricting the number of file formats that you can export to. For example, the STEP file format will no longer be available with the Personal license. Will this mean that I will not be able to move my models to another CAD package, such as FreeCAD, once the changes come into effect (without first buying a commercial license)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://knowledge.autodesk.com/support/fusion-360/learn-explore/caas/sfdcarticles/sfdcarticles/Fusion-360-Free-License-Changes.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Autodesk: Changes to Fusion 360 for personal use&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit: Good news. Autodesk have announced, on 25 September 2020,  that the facility to export models to STEP files will be retained for the free-to-use, personal license.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3953" LastEditorUserId="3953" LastEditDate="2020-09-25T17:50:19.220" LastActivityDate="2020-09-28T17:40:09.143" Title="Will I still be able to export my Fusion 360 models to other CAD packages after Autodesk's recent license changes come into effect?" Tags="|fusion360|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14440" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-09-17T03:12:56.963" Score="2" ViewCount="1094" Body="&lt;p&gt;I took the plunge and bought a resin printer. I was wondering if I could use full strength home-brew vodka at 90 % instead of using isopropyl alcohol before anything is added to clean prints with?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I cannot seem to find anywhere or anyone that has tried this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23621" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-09-17T05:59:16.557" LastActivityDate="2021-07-29T15:06:40.020" Title="Home-brew alcohol to clean resin prints" Tags="|resin|cleaning|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14441" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14438" CreationDate="2020-09-17T06:44:16.683" Score="0" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any issues compatibility wise or firmware wise that I might run into while upgrading&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These boards are 8-bit boards with limited storage capacity for your firmware, if you would need an update, as an alternative solution, a 32-bit board may be a much better solution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also I know that the V2.5 board uses Marlin firmware, is that the same firmware that the V1.0 uses&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do not own this board so I can't say for sure, a generic remark would be that the Marlin 2.x branch works fine on 8-bit boards (from experience with some of my own boards), but you frequently see (does not have be the case for this board!) that these OEMs use the latest from the 1.1.9 branch. The only drawback is that you sometimes need to be creative to fit the firmware on the board, the more options, the more memory is used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it worth it to upgrade to BLTouch&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That depends on the state of your heated bed/build platform. If the build platform is not flat, but is somewhat curved, you may see improvements in bed adhesion when you correctly add a sensor that maps the surface and adjusts for it during printing. If it is flat, manual leveling works fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am not that clear on whether you would have to ever use the manual bed leveling adjustments or does BLTouch take care of that forever?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even when using a sensor that maps the surface of the build platform, you should always try to deliver a bed that is as level as possible. In videos you often see the bed tilted (very much exaggerated); you need to remember that the printer will &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/7892&quot;&gt;print in a plain level&lt;/a&gt; after about 10 mm (or to a different height, determined in your firmware or set by G-code), a skew platform will give you a skew print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-09-17T07:12:57.700" LastActivityDate="2020-09-17T07:12:57.700" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14443" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-09-18T08:11:19.887" Score="1" ViewCount="354" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had my 3D printer powered by dual 24 V PSUs wired in parallel and my heatbed was wired into the main using a SSR to help power it. I replaced the two PSUs with a single Corsair 750 W ATX. My printer runs smoother and there's much less wiring clutter to deal with but now no matter what the heatbed will not heat up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main connection of the ATX I purchased is an 8 pin connection so I tried using all 4 wires to power my printer and it didn't make a difference, I tried using the SSR again using 2 connections from the ATX leaving the other 2 to run the motherboard but that didn't work either. I even tried MOSFET and that also failed. I don't see why the Heatbed no longer heats up yet the thermistor is more accurate and working properly since my switch to the ATX, do I need to go up to a 1000 W ATX instead? I can't imagine what more I could do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hJMYN.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Schematic of PSU, bed, control board and SSR&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9861" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-09-18T15:48:05.050" LastActivityDate="2020-09-19T05:54:08.080" Title="Wiring heatbed into Main using ATX" Tags="|diy-3d-printer|heated-bed|electronics|switching-power-supply|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14445" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14440" CreationDate="2020-09-18T10:50:51.537" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Isopropyl-Alcohol - Propan-2-ol - and Ethyl alcohol - Ethan-1-ol - are different chemically. As a secondary alcohol, Propan-2-ol has quite different solubility of different materials than ethyl-alcohol.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, let's look at home made alcoholic destillate. That stuff is, if done in one refraction and without tossing the first low temperature part, some percentages Metanol, Ethyl alcohol and maybe some water. That has not the same solvent properties as Propan-2-ol.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While it &lt;em&gt;might&lt;/em&gt; work, nobody will sign a guarantee that it doesn't negatively impact your print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastActivityDate="2020-09-18T10:50:51.537" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14446" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14419" CreationDate="2020-09-18T13:35:13.757" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could try freezing your bed with cooling spray around the print and then wait some seconds and try peel it off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had the problem once on my PEI sheet and it did help. I used this spray: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.distrelec.ch/de/kuehlmittel-spray-prefix-prefix-200-suffix-suffix-ml-kontakt-chemie-freeze-75-200-ml-ml/p/30025851?channel=b2c&amp;amp;price_gs=17.51202&amp;amp;source=googleps&amp;amp;ext_cid=shgooaqchde-na&amp;amp;gclid=EAIaIQobChMIyuGr5Ojy6wIVkuntCh2nawCXEAQYASABEgKQ5vD_BwE&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Spray&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But make sure you don't break any electric parts on your printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18651" LastActivityDate="2020-09-18T13:35:13.757" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14447" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14435" CreationDate="2020-09-18T18:01:02.897" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is most likely a hardware problem, namely the &lt;a href=&quot;https://help.prusa3d.com/en/guide/4-heatbed-assembly_51736#52400&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;heat bed thermistor cable&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To confirm this as the root cause, here's what you can try&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Reboot the printer&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Move the y axis around to make sure there is freedom of movement at both ends&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Jigger the thermistor cable around in multiple directions at multiple points on the cable&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you hit &lt;code&gt;BED MINTEMP&lt;/code&gt; or &lt;code&gt;BED_MINTEMP fixed&lt;/code&gt; then you have found a cable angle/position that causes the issue. You may need to replace the cable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The issue could also happen at the connection with Einsey. If the wrapped cable going into Einsey is moved, the connection may be faulty.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ground yourself&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Open Einsy&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ground yourself&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Reboot the printer&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Jigger the connection to Einsey&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you hit &lt;code&gt;BED MINTEMP&lt;/code&gt; or &lt;code&gt;BED_MINTEMP fixed&lt;/code&gt; then the connection is bad. Try unplugging and replugging the cable. Look at the connectors on both sides to try to determine if the source is the cable or Einsey. You may need to replace the cable or repair the Einsey connector.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23609" LastActivityDate="2020-09-18T18:01:02.897" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14449" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-09-18T20:24:21.120" Score="2" ViewCount="524" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a bit of a headache with my Anycubic i3 Mega which originally had a Trigorila 32-bit board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I decided to swap it because of loud A4988 drivers and got myself an MKS Robin Nano 1.2.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This printer is heavily modded. All the hot-end is swapped to &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3726476&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;MT2&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, MT2 mod was done with Trigorilla, so no problems back then. Also, I know that Anycubic locks their max fan speed at ~80 %, so with that in mind done tests with 100/80/50/30 % cooling fan and the result is the same; temperature drops, and I get &amp;quot;Thermal Runaway&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, the strangest part is:&#xA;If I set manually 200 °C, wait for it to climb, and then blast 255 °C on the cooling fan, it drops to 199 °C and then back to 200 °C.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have added a picture below, it has been like this already for about 15-20 min, no probs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PID autotune was performed numerous times, with values saved, PID repeated, new values stored, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Anycubic i3 Mega&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;MKS Robin Nano 1.2&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;E3D V6 original.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Marlin 2.0.5.3&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And snippets from Marlin cfg:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#define TEMP_SENSOR_0 5&#xA;&#xA;// Comment the following line to disable PID and enable bang-bang.&#xA;#define PIDTEMP&#xA;#define BANG_MAX 255     // Limits current to nozzle while in bang-bang mode; 255=full current&#xA;#define PID_MAX BANG_MAX // Limits current to nozzle while PID is active (see PID_FUNCTIONAL_RANGE below); 255=full current&#xA;#define PID_K1 0.95      // Smoothing factor within any PID loop&#xA;&#xA;// Ai3 mega&#xA;  #define DEFAULT_Kp 27.69&#xA;  #define DEFAULT_Ki 2.02&#xA;  #define DEFAULT_Kd 94.89&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Additional information (1):&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have XYZ cube and fan on from layer 3 G-code. It always seems to fail on layer 3, so turned manually fan from layer one, was printing fine till layer 3 and then thermal runaway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Done a test, sent G-code to see if &lt;code&gt;M106&lt;/code&gt; is an issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;M104 S210 T0&#xA;M109 S210 T0&#xA;M106 S204&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But no, printer kept temperature steady... Makes me crazy, please help&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Additional information (2):&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I updated all the images:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gIYAG.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gIYAG.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nic4G.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nic4G.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9733" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-09-20T10:43:45.880" LastActivityDate="2020-09-20T23:12:39.063" Title="Thermal runaway" Tags="|troubleshooting|hotend|mks|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14450" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14443" CreationDate="2020-09-19T01:23:49.367" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You indicated that you were using 24 volts, implying you have a 24 volt bed. ATX power supplies do not have 24 volt outputs. The highest is 12 volts which would heat up the bed, but not fast or probably to full temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20164" LastActivityDate="2020-09-19T01:23:49.367" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14452" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14443" CreationDate="2020-09-19T03:01:04.930" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;voltage = current x resistance&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An ATX PSU is designed to only allow approximately 16 amps per pair of YELLOW and BLACK wires. The yellow is 12 V and the black is GND. If your bed were rated at 24 V then its resistance would be higher than that of the 12 V bed. The best solution for you would be to get a 12 V heated bed, as opposed to using a boost converter. Reason being is that you would need to get a boost converter that can tolerate over 200 W of power! It's just cheaper to replace the bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, you need to consider the heat bed, the extruders and the steper motor's power needs before you purchase a PSU. If you had a multimeter with a current measurement, then you could accurately determine how much power each one uses and then purchase to size.&#xA;Based on your bed size (600 mm) I think that 500 W should be enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12857" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-09-19T05:54:08.080" LastActivityDate="2020-09-19T05:54:08.080" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14453" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14418" CreationDate="2020-09-19T03:38:46.810" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ok so I did a bit of testing with the wiring and it turns out I just had the 3DTouch in the Z- socket instead of Z+ :-) .&#xA;Another idiot mistake from me!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23583" LastEditorUserId="23583" LastEditDate="2021-02-21T03:39:04.960" LastActivityDate="2021-02-21T03:39:04.960" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14454" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-09-19T09:28:57.993" Score="1" ViewCount="127" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just flashed my Ender 5 Plus with the TH3D firmware so I could add an 12864... started a print and then a few minutes later I notice this on the LCD!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How would I fix this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gI0Ib.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gI0Ib.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;fubar lcd&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23643" LastActivityDate="2020-09-21T14:12:38.133" Title="12864 LCD image not centered?" Tags="|lcd-screen|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14456" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-09-19T19:51:13.253" Score="2" ViewCount="1772" Body="&lt;p&gt;The title pretty much sums up the issue. It was happening before moving to an SKR Mini E3 V1.2 and is still happening with the new board.&#xA;If I run A &lt;code&gt;G28&lt;/code&gt;, then a &lt;code&gt;G29&lt;/code&gt; - while &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; heated - I will get some mesh data (poor mesh data because I haven't levelled the bed but that's not the main issue).&#xA;If I then repeatedly run &lt;code&gt;G29&lt;/code&gt; (lets say 5 times) there will be variation between the measurement but only and expected amount and nothing more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Bilinear Leveling Grid:&#xA;      0      1      2&#xA; 0 +0.592 +0.270 +0.010&#xA; 1 +0.082 +0.010 -0.062&#xA; 2 +0.215 +0.078 -0.065&#xA;Bilinear Leveling Grid:&#xA;      0      1      2&#xA; 0 +0.597 +0.267 +0.002&#xA; 1 +0.085 +0.007 -0.065&#xA; 2 +0.215 +0.078 -0.065&#xA;Bilinear Leveling Grid:&#xA;      0      1      2&#xA; 0 +0.607 +0.267 -0.002&#xA; 1 +0.085 +0.010 -0.065&#xA; 2 +0.212 +0.075 -0.060&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although it does continue to climb a bit, it's a BLTouch they're not &lt;em&gt;the&lt;/em&gt; most accurate things so I'm not worrying about it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, if I heat the nozzle (200 °C) and bed (60 °C):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Bilinear Leveling Grid:&#xA;      0      1      2&#xA; 0 +0.537 +0.252 +0.022&#xA; 1 +0.057 -0.002 -0.050&#xA; 2 +0.200 +0.075 -0.087&#xA;Bilinear Leveling Grid:&#xA;      0      1      2&#xA; 0 +0.495 +0.203 -0.030&#xA; 1 +0.020 -0.027 -0.097&#xA; 2 +0.150 +0.027 -0.127&#xA;Bilinear Leveling Grid:&#xA;      0      1      2&#xA; 0 +0.462 +0.180 -0.067&#xA; 1 -0.002 -0.072 -0.150&#xA; 2 +0.122 -0.010 -0.170&#xA;Bilinear Leveling Grid:&#xA;      0      1      2&#xA; 0 +0.422 +0.132 -0.105&#xA; 1 -0.057 -0.140 -0.192&#xA; 2 +0.075 -0.043 -0.215&#xA;Bilinear Leveling Grid:&#xA;      0      1      2&#xA; 0 +0.367 +0.082 -0.165&#xA; 1 -0.110 -0.155 -0.233&#xA; 2 +0.030 -0.102 -0.255&#xA;Bilinear Leveling Grid:&#xA;      0      1      2&#xA; 0 +0.347 +0.045 -0.190&#xA; 1 -0.135 -0.180 -0.250&#xA; 2 +0.002 -0.127 -0.280&#xA;Bilinear Leveling Grid:&#xA;      0      1      2&#xA; 0 +0.322 +0.032 -0.215&#xA; 1 -0.155 -0.230 -0.280&#xA; 2 -0.020 -0.142 -0.315&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you can see the variations in the measurements are &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; high.&#xA;This must be a known issue because Marlin does have a &lt;code&gt;PROBING_HEATERS_OFF&lt;/code&gt; option but this would take even more time and I'm just curious if there is a reason for this or another fix to it.&#xA;I don't believe it would be a current issue since the power supply used can deliver many amps so it's probably something like electrical noise. I think it's fine to leave it because you only home and probe once during a print so the measurements would be 'accurate' but it would be reassuring to find out a reason and a possible fix.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I measured the rail with my oscilloscope and it actually isn't very noisy, whether I was heating or not. However, Vmax was 4.6 and Vmin was 4.4 and I'm wondering if that is too low. These voltages didn't change while heating so I think they are always that low.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For completeness, here an image of the printer:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2VPM3.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2VPM3.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and here graphs about the BLtouch data over time:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MivOq.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MivOq.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23598" LastEditorUserId="2338" LastEditDate="2020-09-30T19:05:20.223" LastActivityDate="2023-02-03T20:25:18.387" Title="While heating, BLTouch mesh data gets worse and worse the more times you probe" Tags="|bed-leveling|bltouch|skr-mini-e3|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14457" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-09-20T05:25:54.403" Score="2" ViewCount="4110" Body="&lt;p&gt;How would one go about squaring the gantry relative to the frame?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Referring to the image below, distance A and distance B are not equal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also would this account for the reason why when I attempt to print a circle it is not perfectly circular, and when I try to print a square, it is tilted?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/utLCW.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/utLCW.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23643" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-09-20T07:40:49.200" LastActivityDate="2023-12-07T21:59:57.367" Title="Ender 5 (Plus) - Gantry not square to frame, how to fix?" Tags="|creality-ender-5|mechanics|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14458" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14457" CreationDate="2020-09-20T08:01:50.453" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How would one go about squaring the gantry relative to the frame?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You first need to make sure that the cube/box frame is square. Once this is done, you need to check whether the gantry is still not perpendicular/parallel to the top frame. If not, you need to loosen the couplers at the front that control the Y movement of the printer. See if you can reposition the gantry to be square to the frame. If that doesn't work, you need to fiddle with the bolts that hold the wheels of the X-Y carriages so that the gantry will become aligned with the top of the frame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also would this account for the reason why when I attempt to print a circle it is not perfectly circular, and when I try to print a square, it is tilted?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, a skew gantry causes skew prints, i.e. squares become parallelograms, and circles become oval. There is another solution to fix this in firmware, but, the preferred method is to mechanically fix the issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-09-20T10:11:24.060" LastActivityDate="2020-09-20T10:11:24.060" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14459" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14449" CreationDate="2020-09-20T10:12:58.653" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Thank you for updating the pictures (twice) and giving us the info to work with!&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the moment I see two things:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;First, the printhead doesn't reach the 210 °C set into it in the last timeframe. After some time of printing, this forces TRP (Thermal runaway protection) as the board thinks: &lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&amp;quot;HEY! my thermistor might be loose, I try to HEAT here!&amp;quot;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Second, your graph shows that in the first area, your printhead actually is able to reach the temperature. But something does change which prevents it from holding the temperature.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then, there's the Anecdotal note:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;running same print without cooling fan and its going steady&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Those three together tell us exactly what is going on: The airstream from the part cooling fan must somehow brush over the hotend, cooling the heater block and throwing off the measurements.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Fixing in&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are basically 2 things how you can deal with that:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;isolate the printhead from the airstream. There are a lot of solutions for that:&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Silicone sock to keep away the airstream&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Kepton Tape/Tinfoil to try to imitate a silicone sock&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;different position or geometry of the fan duct to not hit the heater block&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;turn off/tune down the fan&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2020-09-20T23:12:39.063" LastActivityDate="2020-09-20T23:12:39.063" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14461" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14115" CreationDate="2020-09-20T19:45:05.537" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Capricorn sells 3x2mm ptfe heat break tube. Havnt used it long enough to know if it will hold up to its claims of withstanding temps up to 275c and beyond for any length of time; but I do know the generic ptfe I had in it before lived up to its reputation of going funny at 240c even though they sell it as rated for 250c. But capricorn has a good reputation in general it seems; and I can already testify that the reduction in friction in my bowden tube certainly did live up to the hype, so id recommend giving them a try.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18698" LastActivityDate="2020-09-20T19:45:05.537" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14462" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-09-21T01:17:54.223" Score="2" ViewCount="178" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have used my printer (Flying Bear Ghost 4) for the last year and a few days ago I noticed that the center of the heat bed does not stick like it used to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think it can be caused by the fact that I always print at the center of the bed (glass) and the center is now too much used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a way to fix it or will I need another bed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18678" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-09-21T11:13:50.977" LastActivityDate="2020-09-22T09:13:36.440" Title="PLA does not stick to center of the bed anymore" Tags="|heated-bed|bed-leveling|flyingbear-ghost-4|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14463" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14456" CreationDate="2020-09-21T08:30:41.853" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It looks like the changes are always going in the same direction for a given probe point (each point increases steadily or decreases steadily, there is no oscillation).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This means that the bed is not warm yet and you should wait longer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In theory the heating of the BLtouch itself may affect the readings, and the air surely gets progressively warmer around it, but since some values increase and other ones decrease, that's not the cause.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The values change because the bed is still adapting to the temperature increase.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a more systematic and scientific approach, do the following.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With the bed cold, heating off, probe a single point 10 times without any delay, then put the data in a spreadsheet and calculate the standard deviation, to know how accurate the sensor is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After that probe the whole bed every 5 minutes during heating for half an hour and then plot the values on a graph (each point separately). At a certain point you will see that the values will oscillate about as much as they did when the bed was cold. That is the time you need to wait for proper bee heating. Different parts of the bed may reach the temperature in different times, that's why each probed point has to be graphed separately over time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you use an enclosure, as you do, the continuous change of BLtouch output can also be dependent on the overall heating of the printer frame and structure: instead of heating only the bed, in an environment which stays the same, you are heating the whole environment through the bed. It becomes more complex. The BLtouch may be fine, but you may need to keep heating it until the readings stabilise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2338" LastEditorUserId="2338" LastEditDate="2020-09-30T19:03:03.847" LastActivityDate="2020-09-30T19:03:03.847" CommentCount="13" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14464" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13992" CreationDate="2020-09-21T08:54:35.253" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just to update on this, it wasn't directly a configuration setting, it was actually a blockage in the hotend (I suspect because the PTFE tube had become unseated from some black filament that was stated as 1.75 mm but I think it had a larger diameter). After clearing through my hotend with some PTFE tube, I found a disk of the black filament I initially started having this problem with. The issue was resolved once I cleared through the hotend and I now check all my filament with my digital callipers to be sure it's the correct diameter before running it through to save me heaps of pain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20814" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-09-21T11:03:54.227" LastActivityDate="2020-09-21T11:03:54.227" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14465" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14454" CreationDate="2020-09-21T11:37:11.267" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There seems to be an issue with these cheap controllers with the timing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With reference to the next reported issues:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/issues/5703&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/issues/5703&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/issues/5720&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/issues/5720&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Add these 3 lines after the &lt;code&gt;#define ENDER5_PLUS&lt;/code&gt; in the firmware files:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#define ST7920_DELAY_1 DELAY_NS(250)&#xA;#define ST7920_DELAY_2 DELAY_NS(250)&#xA;#define ST7920_DELAY_3 DELAY_NS(250)&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13829" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-09-21T14:12:38.133" LastActivityDate="2020-09-21T14:12:38.133" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14466" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14462" CreationDate="2020-09-21T23:37:07.863" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Actually I washed my heat-bed with some dishes soap and dried it very well, releveled it and now all is fine. I guess it was greasy even if i cleaned it as usual.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18678" LastEditorUserId="18678" LastEditDate="2020-09-22T09:13:36.440" LastActivityDate="2020-09-22T09:13:36.440" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14467" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14439" CreationDate="2020-09-22T00:30:08.657" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most of my answer is based off of what Autodesk has said and &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SlnEThQ4HR8&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this video&lt;/a&gt; from Maker's Muse, which explains this topic in much more detail.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In summary, Autodesk is planning on restricting your ability to export any parametric file formats like .STEP or .IGES, leaving no useful CAD-specific files available for users with personal licenses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would recommend exporting everything you want to keep as .STEP right now just in case you do decide to switch programs later on, because you won't be able to switch after the changes go into effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope that helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: As Oscar has pointed out, .STEP exporting is now also part of the general consumer's license, and you can export to other CAD packages at any time. As far as I can tell, other parametric formats, notably .IGES, is still not available for consumers. This shouldn't pose too much of a problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm going to leave my original post intact for now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23179" LastEditorUserId="23179" LastEditDate="2020-09-28T15:59:33.080" LastActivityDate="2020-09-28T15:59:33.080" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14468" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14439" CreationDate="2020-09-22T08:01:17.057" Score="1" Body="&lt;h1&gt;If you use the private license: there was supposed to be a cutoff date.&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As long as you use the &amp;quot;private&amp;quot; license, you will get some restrictions. Originally, including the lock off of &lt;code&gt;.step&lt;/code&gt; and similar files as well as limiting you to 10 active projects. This means, that you will need to deactivate some to make room for new ones, but unless you have many interlocking parts, 10 can be quite a lot for a hobbyist.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They also lock off features that are pretty much only useful for small companies - and if you are in the shoes missing those features, you are on the wrong free license anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In late (&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.autodesk.com/products/fusion-360/blog/changes-to-fusion-360-for-personal-use/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;25&lt;sup&gt;th&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/a&gt;.) September 2020, the lock of &lt;code&gt;.step&lt;/code&gt; was reversed, but other formats will still no longer be available.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;This does not apply to all free licenses&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that this does not apply to the free education license for teachers and students or the free business license for sub 100,000 \$ companies. You might want to consider swapping to either of these two plans if you qualify.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Last words&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I agree with &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t4CqWWQXaPE&amp;amp;t=0s&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Thomas Sanladerer:&lt;/a&gt; Autodesk is under no obligation to offer a free version at all and even a somewhat restricted, locked into the Autodesk-world version is much better than nothing. I will keep using it, but I am also in the education space and thus not directly affected.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-09-28T17:40:09.143" LastActivityDate="2020-09-28T17:40:09.143" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14469" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8242" CreationDate="2020-09-22T14:08:23.227" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I got the same problem today and after a lot of troubleshooting (following the answers here) I found out that the &lt;strong&gt;issue was the connection to the hotbed&lt;/strong&gt;. After I clean out the connection to the hotbed the printer started working as usual. The debugging logic was that &lt;strong&gt;the printer heats up the hotbed &lt;em&gt;before&lt;/em&gt; setting the extruder temperature&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looking to your LCD the issue seems to be the same, since 33 degrees is a normal ambient temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23678" LastActivityDate="2020-09-22T14:08:23.227" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14470" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-09-22T17:04:48.637" Score="2" ViewCount="695" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to connect my PC to my Anet A8 through &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.pronterface.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Pronterface&lt;/a&gt; on Ubuntu.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But when I'm clicking on the &amp;quot;connect&amp;quot; button in Pronterface, all I see is &amp;quot;&lt;em&gt;Connecting ...&lt;/em&gt;&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I did so far&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;added my user to the &lt;code&gt;dialout&lt;/code&gt; group&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;tried to run it as &lt;code&gt;root&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;tried different baudrates&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;switch to different USB cables&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;tried to install and run it on a different machine and different OS (Windows) with nearly the same result (additionally I see repeated lines with &lt;code&gt;M105&lt;/code&gt;, but no response)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The printer itself works - I want to connect to it, to &amp;quot;PID tune&amp;quot; it, because I added a different fan duct.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;How can I make sure the board isn't somewhat damaged, and its just my setup?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23680" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2020-09-22T22:15:53.497" LastActivityDate="2020-09-23T07:48:53.227" Title="Anet A8 board USB broken?" Tags="|anet-a8|pronterface|linux|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14471" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14470" CreationDate="2020-09-22T23:08:45.773" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You may need to install a device driver for the USB interface chip that your printer uses. I'm guessing that the Anet A8 uses a clone of the FTDI FT232RL chip (which was and may still be common with cheap Chinese printers).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this is the case, you will need to install the appropriate driver from this site: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.ftdichip.com/Drivers/VCP.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;FTDI Chip Virtual COM Port Drivers&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: I can confirm that Pronterface will not work with my Tronxy X1 (which uses an FT232RL clone) on the latest version of Ubuntu.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3953" LastEditorUserId="3953" LastEditDate="2020-09-23T00:01:50.373" LastActivityDate="2020-09-23T00:01:50.373" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14472" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13905" CreationDate="2020-09-23T05:29:44.877" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The fact that the bumps were in the same spots on multiple occasions points to z-axis problems. Turn your printer off and manually turn the z-axis all the way from bottom to top. If there are any tight spots, there is some &lt;em&gt;z-axis binding&lt;/em&gt;. If there are no tight spots, skip to the last paragraph.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Try taking off the z-axis by removing the set screws (pictured below). Remember which side was pointing up for a later step.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GnC4r.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GnC4r.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you do that, clean the screw thoroughly with a brush, cloth, solution, or a combination of those. Put the screw back in the opposite way this time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you get no bumps, then it was indeed the z-axis&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the bumps are still there, try lowering your temperature some more(200 is still a little high compared to what I do for PLA), and &lt;a href=&quot;https://all3dp.com/2/extruder-calibration-6-easy-steps-2/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;calibrate your e-steps&lt;/a&gt; if you haven't already.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23179" LastActivityDate="2020-09-23T05:29:44.877" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14473" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14470" CreationDate="2020-09-23T06:57:58.667" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have this printer and used this board many times over USB.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The genuine Arduino boards use the FTDI FT232RL to convert USB signals to UART signals.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem with these Arduino based clone boards is that they do not use the FTDI chips as these are too expensive. These boards use a CH340G chip which is a Chinese clone which requires a specific driver to be installed before you can communicate with the board:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/C5712.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;CH304G chipset on Anet A8 board&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/C5712.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;CH304G chipset on Anet A8 board&quot; title=&quot;CH304G chipset on Anet A8 board&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;em&gt;Image shows a close-up of the CH340G chipset on the Anet A8 controller board.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you bought the printer, the SD-card contained the driver that you need to install on your OS. I remember that this driver was for the Windows OS. However, you can download the driver for many platforms (Windows, Mac and Linux) directly from the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wch.cn/download/CH341SER_EXE.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;manufacturer&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-09-23T07:48:53.227" LastActivityDate="2020-09-23T07:48:53.227" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14474" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14475" CreationDate="2020-09-23T12:06:31.297" Score="3" ViewCount="467" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been happily printing on my CR-10 for a couple of months but now there is an issue. As soon as I turn it on the hot-end begins heating. I have replaced the heater and the thermistor but the problem remains. The panel on the control box shows 0 for the commanded temperature,  but the actual temp just keeps rising.&#xA;Anyone know what could be wrong?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23683" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-09-23T12:41:05.170" LastActivityDate="2020-09-23T12:41:05.170" Title="CR-10 heating problem" Tags="|hotend|electronics|creality-cr-10|heat-management|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14475" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14474" CreationDate="2020-09-23T12:35:43.837" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you power the printer and it starts heating up the hotend, it most probably is caused by a faulty controller board. More specific, the MOSFET (as in an electronic switch component) controlling the current to the heater element is causing this. MOSFET devices usually fail short-circuit implying that when the MOSFET has failed, the current can freely run to the heater element without being controlled by the board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are handy with electronics, you can replace the MOSFET, but it might be better to upgrade to a newer controller board as there may be other damage as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2020-09-23T12:35:43.837" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14476" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6723" CreationDate="2020-09-23T14:53:31.553" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I used to work at a small thermoforming plastics enclosure company and we used “weld-on” for basically ANYTHING. Delrin and medical grade plastics not included but, PC, PE, acrylic, PETG, etc. use &amp;quot;weld-on number 3&amp;quot; for more easy bond plastic, &amp;quot;number 4&amp;quot; for more crystalline/harder to bond plastics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23685" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-09-23T16:45:17.883" LastActivityDate="2020-09-23T16:45:17.883" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14477" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14427" CreationDate="2020-09-23T18:16:49.383" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It looks like a case of one axis affecting the other.  This is a subset of cases where things are not rigid enough.  Basically the movement direction in X is causing an offset in the Y, or whatever you want to call the axes.  It is present in small amounts in all screw-driven setups where the screw essentially acts as a wedge, and can be in others for various other reasons.  The solution is to tighten up your linear bearings/slides so that there is less transverse play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is also a chance that you are trying to print beyond the resolution of your printer, in which case it is &amp;quot;rounding&amp;quot; to the nearest within its capabilities, but that seems less likely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23523" LastActivityDate="2020-09-23T18:16:49.383" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14478" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-09-23T19:24:17.353" Score="1" ViewCount="356" Body="&lt;p&gt;My 3D printer was working perfectly, but one day I put it inside an acrylic box and put it to work, that was not a good idea, because the Z axis grabbed the box, after that, the Z axis started to rotate strange, I even tried to change the wires between the motors and the drivers, but it didn't work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/usucY.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/usucY.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a suspicion that the drive must have a safety criterion, so when something strange happens it stops sending the necessary current for the stepper to run, if it is possible. Does someone have any tips on how to make it work correctly again? Remembering that the motor that is working in a strange way is the motor on the right side of the Z axis, the motor on the left side looks normal. Below I will leave a video showing how the printer is working, like, if it moves just a little bit with the Z axis, it looks like it works normally, but if I move it a little more, then it starts to get weird.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On this printer, I used a AtMega Arduino, with RAMPS 1.4 shield, with A4988 drivers, &amp;quot;NEMA 17&amp;quot; steppers and  and I'm using the Repetier-host program to control the printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Video: &lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/8aRTXnqgyLU?start=0&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23688" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-09-23T21:37:34.447" LastActivityDate="2021-10-19T00:03:55.373" Title="Problems with the right Z axis" Tags="|diy-3d-printer|z-axis|ramps-1.4|nema-17|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14480" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14478" CreationDate="2020-09-23T21:50:26.700" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've had this happen before on various Prusa i3 style printers, especially with my homemade tight self printed POM linear bearings for the Z linear shaft. The problem is that the right side Z axis has some sort of friction caused by a skew frame, probably caused by the incident you had earlier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You need to check whether the X axis carriage goes up and down smoothly. Unscrew the lead screw couplers or the trapezoid nuts and check the movement. If it catches friction, try solve where it comes from. The friction is causing the stepper to skip steps and causes the unsynchronized up/down movement. Please check if the frame or the rods have not bent, the distance between the linear guide rails needs to be the same over the complete height.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2020-09-23T21:50:26.700" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14481" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-09-24T00:01:41.050" Score="4" ViewCount="1521" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I have some old filament that I originally got for a 3D pen. The problem is it's unlabeled and I haven't been able to find anything that might help me distinguish whether it's PLA or ABS. The bag it all came in says that wherever this filament came from only makes PLA and ABS so it's got to be on of those two.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a roll of PLA in my 3D printer right now, but I can't tell if it's the same as the filament I have for the 3D pen. It's been a while since I've used the 3D pen, but I do remember whenever you used it, it would produce a very very bad smell. I've also noticed that the filament seems to be more flexible that the PLA in my machine. This makes me think it could be ABS, because the PLA smells far better than what I remember the 3D pen smelling like, and it's more flexible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also don't really want to do any heat tests or anything on the filament, so if the smell and flexibility is enough to determine which filament it is, could anyone tell me?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23693" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-09-24T06:39:05.180" LastActivityDate="2020-09-24T12:03:09.467" Title="How to identify what type of filament an unlabeled spool is" Tags="|filament|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14482" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14481" CreationDate="2020-09-24T00:34:39.400" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Mick's suggestion is a good one. PLA may shed some color in acetone, but ABS will dissolve completely in a suitable amount of time. If you have dark filament, you can test by flexing the filament until it breaks. ABS will sometimes/often/usually fatigue with a white break line, while PLA does not exhibit this tendency as much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PLA has a somewhat sweet smell, which may be the corn sugars burning off, while ABS has a much more chemical-like odor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not doing heat testing does limit your options.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastActivityDate="2020-09-24T00:34:39.400" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14483" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-09-24T04:35:10.413" Score="0" ViewCount="109" Body="&lt;p&gt;So during one of my initial experiments I accidentally blew up one of my capacitors. Everything else works on the board except the motor control with the blown capacitor so I'm going to replace it. Now I know it's an SMD and its capacitance is 47 µF, I'm going to assume that the &amp;quot;H&amp;quot; marks it as a 50 VDC on its voltage rating and it has a diameter of 6.3 mm as measured with my caliper. I can't find anything that read the exact same as what is on the capacitor shown, does that matter or does only the capacitance and voltage rating matter? [assuming my idea of the voltage rating being 50 VDC is correct]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dnx8I.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dnx8I.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9861" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-09-24T06:33:56.137" LastActivityDate="2020-09-24T06:33:56.137" Title="Identifying and Replacing Capacitor" Tags="|diy-3d-printer|electronics|repair|flashforge-creator|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14484" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14481" CreationDate="2020-09-24T12:03:09.467" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just burn it and check flame color.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know you mentioned that you would like to avoid heat test, but this method is much faster and easier then other techniques.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bNKno20GMMQ&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;3D printing filament burn test&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a7l0Aaysy_8&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Do 3D Prints Catch Fire? ABS / PLA / PETG Burn Test - Episode 1&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="75" LastActivityDate="2020-09-24T12:03:09.467" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14485" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6723" CreationDate="2020-09-24T12:11:44.110" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.3dgloop.com/shop/pla-gloop&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;PLA Gloop&lt;/a&gt; is dedicated glue for PLA. It contains chloroform, so be careful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gTtW_NXFMCY&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;3D Gloop! // 3D Printing Adhesive Spotlight&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vQc5TBPF8uw&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;PLA Smoothing 3D Prints with 3D Gloop!&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally a PrusaPrinters guide: &lt;a href=&quot;https://blog.prusaprinters.org/the-great-guide-to-gluing-and-assembling-3d-prints_44908/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;The Great Guide to Gluing and Assembling 3D Prints&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="75" LastEditorUserId="75" LastEditDate="2021-04-27T13:20:19.613" LastActivityDate="2021-04-27T13:20:19.613" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14487" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13921" CreationDate="2020-09-24T13:50:04.583" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;PETG sticks to the bed much easier than PLA or ABS.  I've found it harder to release from the bed.  Note this reference indicates PETG can cause bed damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.matterhackers.com/news/how-to-succeed-when-printing-with-petg-filament#:%7E:text=Other%20Print%20Bed%20Surfaces&amp;amp;text=It%27s%20not%20uncommon%20for%20PETG,permanently%20bonds%20to%20the%20surface&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.matterhackers.com/news/how-to-succeed-when-printing-with-petg-filament#:~:text=Other%20Print%20Bed%20Surfaces&amp;amp;text=It's%20not%20uncommon%20for%20PETG,permanently%20bonds%20to%20the%20surface&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you aren't printing directly on glass, you can use a lower bed temperature to see how it affects the adhesion.  Note this reference indicates you don't need a heated bed for PETG on an adhesive surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://all3dp.com/2/petg-print-bed-temperature-all-you-need-to-know/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://all3dp.com/2/petg-print-bed-temperature-all-you-need-to-know/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With a PEI sheet on a glass bed at 50C, I'm getting good adhesion without it being too much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15075" LastEditorUserId="15075" LastEditDate="2020-09-30T13:11:41.140" LastActivityDate="2020-09-30T13:11:41.140" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14488" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-09-24T14:01:22.040" Score="2" ViewCount="14591" Body="&lt;p&gt;What materials work well for lubricating moving PLA, ABS, or PETG parts? I'm talking items like the&#xA;the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:53451&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Gear Bearings&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4575774&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Print in Place Engine&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've played with a few lubricants on my own, including hand lotion, trumpet valve oil, and carmex/vaseline. Of these, the vaseline has worked best for me so far, but I'd like to hear what has worked well for others, or especially if there's anyone here who understands the chemistry involved and could explain what to look for in different situations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12562" LastActivityDate="2022-03-14T14:45:34.517" Title="Good lubricants for moving parts?" Tags="|post-processing|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14490" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14496" CreationDate="2020-09-24T15:24:28.030" Score="0" ViewCount="435" Body="&lt;p&gt;My Ender 3D with BlTouch And Marlin 2.0.1 firmware was working flawless for 3 months.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yesterday, without any hardware or software change, it started acting weird: on Auto-Home command it first makes expected moves (home X and Y), then moves to the center of the bed and then instead of going down to bed, it rises all the way up and then writes a message about End Stop. This of course happens also on &amp;quot;start print&amp;quot;, &amp;quot;level bed&amp;quot;, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Before the Auto Home command, I can operate the Z axis normally, after it, the printer does not allow movement down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do you have any ideas, what might have gone wrong?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23704" LastActivityDate="2020-10-08T05:08:41.523" Title="Hotend moves up on HOME command" Tags="|creality-ender-3|z-axis|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14491" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14488" CreationDate="2020-09-24T22:02:24.547" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;When dealing with lubrication of plastics, any solvent or reactive substance is to be avoided. Petroleum is risky and Vaseline™ is a brand name for petroleum jelly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've had quite good results using inert lubrication such as PTFE and silicone based lubes. PTFE is the generic term for &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.chm.bris.ac.uk/motm/teflon/teflonv.htm&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Teflon­™&lt;/a&gt; and is quite a good lubricant. There are both silicone and PTFE greases for higher viscosity applications.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the Teflon™ link:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Teflon's amazing properties are down to its structure. Like most&#xA;polymers, Teflon has a carbon-based chain. However, instead of&#xA;reactive C-H bonds which occur in most polymers, Teflon has all its&#xA;hydrogens replaced by fluorines. These strong C-F bonds are extremely&#xA;resistant to attack by any other reagents, making Teflon very inert.&#xA;This means that no other molecules will react with or stick to Teflon.&#xA;The exception is Teflon itself, which will stick to itself quite&#xA;readily, forming thick layers or solid blocks. With a friction&#xA;coefficient of &amp;lt;0.1, Teflon has the second lowest friction coefficient&#xA;(surpassed only by diamond-like carbon), which makes it perfect for&#xA;non-stick items e.g. pans. DuPont invented the non-stick pan coated&#xA;with Teflon in 1956 and have manufactured it ever since. Teflon&#xA;coatings are so slippery that they are the only material that a gecko&#xA;cannot stick to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Who knew that gecko testing was a thing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Silicone_grease&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Wikipedia&lt;/a&gt; for silicone grease:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although silicones are normally assumed to be chemically inert,&#xA;several historically significant compounds have resulted from&#xA;unintended reactions with silicones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Powdered graphite is also a good lubricant if one can tolerate loose powder in some constructions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've read of others using lithium grease, but not for plastic lubrication.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastActivityDate="2020-09-24T22:02:24.547" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14493" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-09-25T13:25:38.857" Score="2" ViewCount="867" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've had an Ender 3 for about a year and a half now and have been using it without issues.&#xA;Last week it turned off a few minutes into a print and wouldn't turn back on on power from the PSU. Connecting a laptop to the usb port does turn on the screen, which makes me think that the board should be fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some investigation revealed that the glass fuse in the PSU power connection was blown.&#xA;I've replaced that and also ordered a replacement PSU, but the printer still won't turn on.&#xA;The PSU is outputting 24 V, I've tested that with a multimeter and attached a picture.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XxCw4.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XxCw4.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Multimeter reading&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd be very grateful for any further hints as far as debugging this issue goes. I feel like the next step might be buying a new mainboard and testing with that, but I want to make sure I'm not missing anything obvious.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23718" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-09-25T13:47:53.580" LastActivityDate="2020-09-25T13:47:53.580" Title="Ender 3 won't power up" Tags="|creality-ender-3|power-supply|repair|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14494" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-09-25T14:34:50.803" Score="1" ViewCount="1346" Body="&lt;p&gt;Around about 2 weeks ago I upgraded my Ender 3 Pro with a micro Swiss direct drive and all metal hotend. I had some tuning with the PID and e-steps to do, but once that was done, it's been mostly good.&#xA;However over the past week I've been having problems where my prints appear to have waves in them and after I've levelled the bed and the print gets about ~5 layers in it sounds like the nozzle is grinding against the print and I drop the bed down which I've noticed is something I keep having to listen for and intermittently drop the bed down mid-print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I thought maybe my bed level was a little high so I went through the bed levelling with my DTI and ran chep's bed level print and watched the print and the filament was being laid down perfectly, adhesion was good and not flat. However I've been trying to print a kitchen roll holder and this is the state of the first few layers:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2eiJ4.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2eiJ4.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Kitchen Roll holder base&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The layering below is where I've had to manually drop the bed mid print. I was wondering if there's a problem with my Z axis but when I manually move up and down it's fine and I even did a similar check where I measure 100 mm from the top of the bearing and set it move 100 mm on the controller and it was spot on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fjIUC.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fjIUC.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Layering&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My print settings/configuration as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ender 3 Pro with magnetic build plate and Micro Swiss direct drive&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bed temp: 60 °C&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hotend temp: 210 °C&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Slicer: Cura 4.7.1 ( recently upgraded from 4.5.1 - wondering if that's the problem? )&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Filament type: PLA&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;No cooling fan&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm honestly, very stuck at the moment at what to do for the best! I have a BLTouch to install but I don't want to install it until I understand what the cause/fix for this issue is. I prefer to know pre-upgrade everything's fine so if there are issues from upgrades I can rollback to a working configuration.&#xA;Any help / advise on diagnosing this issue would be appreciated! If there's any info I've missed, happy to update with it. I have only had my printer for about 6 months so still a bit of newbie.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm currently running a series of tests to check the temperature combinations and to see what gives me the best results. I'm starting at 210 °C and running through all bed temps 40-70 °C to check for waves with 0.5 mm height square, then running the best results through a height test with the XYZcube to see if the height issue goes away. Does anyone know if there's a way for me to batch these tests using Cura post processing similar to a temperature tower? I want to change the bed temperature per model.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20814" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-03-25T14:15:03.490" LastActivityDate="2021-03-25T14:15:03.490" Title="Waves in my prints" Tags="|creality-ender-3|bed-leveling|z-axis|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14495" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6794" CreationDate="2020-09-25T20:47:05.650" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sorry for leaving this so late, I completely forgot about my account until I went through some old emails. In terms of the PSU shock issue, it was fixed through a replacement 13 A cable from an old monitor (so @Green Online and @Sean Houlihane's response worked best I think).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12820" LastActivityDate="2020-09-25T20:47:05.650" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14496" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14490" CreationDate="2020-09-25T21:05:22.053" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The mystery is solved. The BlTouch probe was slightly blocked and reported (supposedly) being in touch with the plate. Just touching it released the probe from the stuck position and all works well now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Due to direct sunlight, I overlooked the warning blinking red colour of the BlTouch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23704" LastEditorUserId="23704" LastEditDate="2020-10-08T05:08:41.523" LastActivityDate="2020-10-08T05:08:41.523" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14497" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14500" CreationDate="2020-09-25T21:06:43.617" Score="1" ViewCount="367" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not storing left-over photopolymer resin back with pristine resin in its original shipping can seems to be a common recommendation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the best practice here? Store in a separate bottle and pour this &amp;quot;once around the block&amp;quot; resin first for the next print?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2493" LastActivityDate="2020-11-25T08:47:58.937" Title="left-over photopolymer resins" Tags="|resin|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14498" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14494" CreationDate="2020-09-25T21:23:33.060" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since you changed the hot end, I'd start at the material diameter setting, followed by the extruder, followed by then check the movements on the z axis.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What you described - a periodic stack up of layers causing distance to the nozzle to decrease can be caused by:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Outputting too much material - this is an extruder issue&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;most likely happens when  too much material is fed into the nozzle either because the motor steps per inch is off or material diameter in slicer is smaller than real material&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;can also happen due to over temperature when material just drips out the nozzle among other issues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol start=&quot;2&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Expanding the gap too little per layer - this is a z motor issue.  Diagnosis can be simple - tell the motor to move and measure how far off the commanded and actual distances are.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;likely happens when axis does not move smoothly - misalignment, junk jammed in places, current too low&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;can also happen when steps per inch are set wrong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23523" LastActivityDate="2020-09-25T21:23:33.060" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14499" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14497" CreationDate="2020-09-26T00:33:36.700" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Considerations for storing resin include using a light-tight bottle, preventing stray ultraviolet radiation from prematurely curing the resin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll also note that users will filter the resin through a fine mesh filter. I've seen some videos in which the user pours through coffee filters to remove as many particulates as possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Left-over resin that has been carefully filtered is effectively the same as fresh-from-the-bottle material, from a purely technical view, but you can pick up contaminants that bypass the filter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastActivityDate="2020-09-26T00:33:36.700" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14500" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14497" CreationDate="2020-09-26T19:13:16.787" Score="2" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Safety first&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suggest the following handling of resins, some basic stuff first:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;ALWAYS&lt;/strong&gt; wear disposable, one-use gloves when handling resin.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Respirators are highly advised to be worn.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Work in a well-ventilated area.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tools dedicated to resin handling are for resin only to prevent contamination of other tools.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Try to minimize the amount added to the vat, so you have as little rests as possible.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Re-cycling&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, what to do to get the used resin back to the cycle? Any resin that has been exosed to air and light, such as having been in the vat is best considered to be B-Quality. You can use it to cast greeblies or bits (aka disposal by curing), as one would do with leftover casting (2-component) resin, but that is a waste.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Step 1: Re-botteling&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, let's look at some better ways: first of all re-botteling the resin. We need to take in mind, that the quality of our resin will further degrade the longer it stays exposed to light (and to a lesser degree: air), so we need to handle the resin in a way that allows us to eliminate exposition to either. For this, it would be best to keep an empty resin bottle at hand and label it as the leftover bottle. To fill this bottle, you should use a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/search?q=resin%20vat&amp;amp;type=things&amp;amp;sort=relevant&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Jig&lt;/a&gt; to keep the vat in a position that it pours into the bottle. You might want to use a funnel in some cases!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Step 2: Re-conditioning&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, we know how to get the stuff back into the (B-quality) bottle. But how to make sure it has the best quality we can? As you notice, many of the jigs involve a funnel. This funnel is used in conjunction with a filter to remove larger particles. The finer the filter, the better. &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Coffee_filter#Paper_filter&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Coffee filters&lt;/a&gt; manage to snatch particles down to about 10 to 15 micrometers. It is equivalent to about Grade 4 laboratory filter paper. However, laboratory filter paper of &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Filter_paper#Qualitative_filter_paper&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;grades 1,2,3 or 602h&lt;/a&gt; would allow to catch particles of even lower size, as the mesh gets even smaller, but might clog faster. Tea filters on the other hand have worse filtration ability and should be avoided.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To get the best out of it, use a filtration stack, that starts with a metal mesh filter before going through a rough and a fine filter to get out any chunks and large particles that would clog the fine filter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It would be best to have this process run in the dark, so mounting the dripping and filtration stack in a box might first sound like overkill, but if you go through a large amount of resin (for example by running several printers) it might be an investment that can save a considerable amount of resin in the long run. However, if you run so many printers, you also might run them continually with the same resin colors and just refill them as needed and only filter if there had been a print failure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Step 3: Storage&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Store your bottles in a closed cupboard. It would be best if this cupboard is ventilated through a filtration unit and then outside. It should also keep a steady temperature above about 10 °C to prevent clumping. Just follow the storage manual for the normal resin actually.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Step 4: Re-use&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now comes the tricky part: re-using the resin. While technically the filtered and re-bottled resin should be almost as good as new, it would be best to make sure that we mix it with some virgin resin to make sure we have enough photoinitiator in the resin. For this, I would suggest mixing the recycled resin with between a sixth and half of the fresh stuff. Mix the two well to make sure you get the best possible. Make sure it's the same type and color of the used resin, best even from the same original batch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Use up the re-cycled resin first, as you should consider it's best before date much shorter than on the virgin bottle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2020-11-25T08:47:58.937" LastActivityDate="2020-11-25T08:47:58.937" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14501" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14502" CreationDate="2020-09-27T05:53:43.027" Score="3" ViewCount="4658" Body="&lt;p&gt;My only functional computer at the moment is a raspberry pi, and I was wondering if there was any software that supported it. My printer is a Newmatter mod-t, but I might be able to modify other software to support it&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23738" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2020-09-27T09:01:41.753" LastActivityDate="2020-10-08T22:26:58.227" Title="Is there any 3D-printing software that supports Raspberry Pi?" Tags="|software|raspberry-pi|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14502" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14501" CreationDate="2020-09-27T08:05:05.660" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The answer is &amp;quot;yes&amp;quot;, but it depends on what hardware you have, what operating system you are using, and what software you want (or need) to use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a Raspberry Pi 4 with 4GB of memory, and I am running a 32-bit version of Raspberry Pi OS. I have been able to install the following software from the Raspberry Pi OS repositories, but not everything is working &amp;quot;out of the box&amp;quot;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Blender 2.79 (starts, but not tested)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cura 3.3.1 (crashes on startup)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;FreeCAD 0.18 (crashes when opening a new document)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;PrintRun (PronterFace) 1.6.0 (working)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;PrusaSlicer (Slic3r PE) 1.39.2 (working)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Repetier-Host 0.85 (crashes on startup)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Slic3r 1.3.0 (working)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have been able to download the 3DBenchy from Thingiverse, slice it using Slic3r, and PrintRun (PronterFace) is currently printing it on my Tronxy X1.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I will update this answer if I can get the other stuff working, since I would quite like to use a Raspberry Pi for 3D design and printing. If I can get FreeCAD working, I shall be happy, and OpenSCAD would be a welcome bonus, but I don't think that it has been ported.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3953" LastEditorUserId="3953" LastEditDate="2020-09-27T09:42:20.523" LastActivityDate="2020-09-27T09:42:20.523" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14505" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14506" CreationDate="2020-09-27T12:18:08.727" Score="3" ViewCount="2405" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to print a part from Thingiverse. In the description, the creater writes that he used SBS to print it. I did some research because I never heard of SBS.&#xA;I found a description on Filaments.directory that describes it as:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Poly(styrene-butadiene-styrene) is a hard, durable rubber that is commonly used for shoe soles, tires and other products that experience high wear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But if I search for SBS filaments to buy, there only shows ABS up. Did I misunderstood something and SBS  is the same as ABS.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18651" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-05-26T11:43:36.470" LastActivityDate="2021-10-16T13:39:57.123" Title="What is SBS plastic" Tags="|filament|plastic|sbs|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14506" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14505" CreationDate="2020-09-27T13:07:23.277" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;As you found and according to this site, SBS is a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.pslc.ws/macrog/sbs.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Styryne-Butadiene&lt;/a&gt; polymer that only contains Styrene and Butadiene chains interlinked. This is similar to ABS, but not identical.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some people have access to filament manufacturing machines or use pellet extruders, however, googling for &lt;a href=&quot;https://lmgtfy.app/?q=%22SBS%22%20filament&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&amp;quot;SBS&amp;quot; filament&lt;/a&gt; I was able to source at the moment two sites with information:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.craftbot.nl/2016/04/26/sbs-filament-english/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Craftbot.nl&lt;/a&gt; is a reseller who also explain why this stuff is such expensive with 40€ for 750 grams&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.filaments.directory/en/plastics/sbs&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;very site you had (apparently defunct, no waybackmachine grab)&lt;/a&gt;, which tells us there is exactly one brand: &lt;a href=&quot;https://filamentarno.ru/default.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Filamentarno&lt;/a&gt; from Russia, but the link to the amazon marketplace from there shows no availability of this product at all.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2021-10-16T13:39:57.123" LastActivityDate="2021-10-16T13:39:57.123" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14507" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2020-09-27T13:08:53.083" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2020-09-27T13:08:53.083" LastActivityDate="2020-09-27T13:08:53.083" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14508" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2020-09-27T13:08:53.083" Score="0" Body="Poly(styrene-butadiene-styrene) is a hard, durable rubber. It prints at about 210 to 230 °C. " OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2020-09-27T13:08:53.083" LastActivityDate="2020-09-27T13:08:53.083" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14509" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14511" CreationDate="2020-09-27T14:33:49.120" Score="2" ViewCount="3165" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Cartesian printer in a cubic format (the bed moves vertically) with Marlin 2.x&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am not finding a way to make it move to Z-max (23 cm) when finishing the printing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The idea is to lower the bed all the way to the max, to make easy removal of the printed piece.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23744" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-09-27T21:23:23.593" LastActivityDate="2020-09-28T00:16:50.567" Title="How to move Z-axis to a specificic position (Z-max) after printing?" Tags="|marlin|z-axis|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14511" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14509" CreationDate="2020-09-27T21:29:52.840" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;To move the bed down, you simply instruct the bed to do so after the print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The best way to do that is add a G-code line to your &amp;quot;end G-code&amp;quot; script you find in your slicer you use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just add the line:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;G1 Z230 F500&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With this command you instruct the bed to lower to your maximum Z height at speed (feed rate) 500 mm per minute.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="12562" LastEditDate="2020-09-28T00:16:50.567" LastActivityDate="2020-09-28T00:16:50.567" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14512" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14515" CreationDate="2020-09-28T02:02:51.437" Score="2" ViewCount="242" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an FLSun 3D Cube, running off an MKS GEN V.1.4 main board. With Marlin 1.0, the Z-axis works great (and has been for three years). When I try to upgrade to Marlin 2.0, moving the Z-axis 10 mm results in extreme motion -50 mm at least, left motor then the right motor, three or four times, very fast. It's loud, it's jarring, and it's at the very least incorrect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What setting am I missing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14530" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-09-28T06:12:53.310" LastActivityDate="2020-09-28T17:44:48.367" Title="Marlin 1.0 works: Marlin 2.0 destroys Z-axis motion" Tags="|marlin|flsun-3d-cube|mks|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14513" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-09-28T08:58:28.090" Score="1" ViewCount="1133" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am trying to get rid of the FlashPrint slicer that comes with the Adventurer 3 due to its limited capabilities - to no success.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cura works to some extent, Simplify3D lacks some bottom layer patterns that I would like to use. With my old cheap Monoprice Select Mini V2 PrusaSlicer or Slic3r were no problem. But for the replacement of the FlashPrint slicer for the Adventurer 3 I could not come to a solution. The Adventurer  3 starts heating up, and when the temperature has reached its value the print head directly marches to the home position - without any printing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anybody have any clue?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My start and end g-codes in PrusaSlicer for the Adventurer 3 are&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;;Adventurer 3 start g-code&#xA;M118 X70.00 Y70.00 Z15.00 T0 ;echo message/serial print&#xA;M140 S[first_layer_bed_temperature] T0 ;bed temperature setting&#xA;M104 S[first_layer_temperature] T0 ;nozzle temperature setting&#xA;M104 S0 T1 ;no second nozzle&#xA;M107 ;disable cooling fan&#xA;G90 ;absolute positioning&#xA;G28 ;home&#xA;M132 X Y Z A B ;load current home position&#xA;G1 Z50.000 F420 ;linear move&#xA;;G161 X Y F3300 ;home axes to minimum&#xA;M7 T0 ;wait for bed&#xA;M6 T0 ;wait for nozzle&#xA;M651 ;chassis fan on&#xA;M907 X100 Y100 Z40 A100 B20&#xA;M108 T0 ;tool change&#xA;...&#xA;;Adventurer 3 end g-code&#xA;M107                   ;disable cooling fan&#xA;M104 S0 T0         ;nozzle temperature setting&#xA;M140 S0 T0 ;bed temperature setting&#xA;G162 Z F1800 ;home axes to maximum&#xA;G28 X Y ;home&#xA;M132 X Y A B ;load current home position&#xA;M652 ;chassis fan off&#xA;G91 ;relative positioning&#xA;M18 ;motor current stop&#xA;;end Adventurer 3&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These start and end g-codes work (with minor modifications) also with Cura and are derived from analyzing the .g-files generated by FlashPrint slicer.&#xA;How can I add .g-code files of FlashPrint and PrusaSlicer here?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23122" LastEditorUserId="23122" LastEditDate="2020-09-29T16:48:59.777" LastActivityDate="2020-09-29T16:48:59.777" Title="Has anybody successfully used Prusa Slicer with the FlashForge Adventurer 3?" Tags="|prusaslicer|flashforge-adventurer-3|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14514" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14326" CreationDate="2020-09-28T12:04:00.523" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;This sounds like a bed leveling issue.  As reported by others, I get much less warping with PETG than with ABS or even PLA, and deal with too much adhesion with PETG rather than too little.  With a Reprap x400, I printed a faceplate for the extruder to hold a electronic drop indicator.  This gives me much higher precision leveling. Of course, I remove the drop indicator after leveling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If leveling isn't the issue, then you may be printing too fast.  The recommendations I've seen are to print PETG at 50 mm/s or less.  I print a a lower speed than that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15075" LastActivityDate="2020-09-28T12:04:00.523" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14515" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14512" CreationDate="2020-09-28T12:51:23.513" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I believe (&lt;a href=&quot;https://gist.github.com/ellisgl/3b92a7fbca4962297bec4c906420a916&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;from reference&lt;/a&gt;) the default steps per mm for the FLSUN 3D Cube are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;                                          X,   Y,    Z, E0 &#xA;#define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT   { 100, 100,  400, 150 }&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Default marlin 2.0.x are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;                                          X,   Y,    Z, E0 &#xA;#define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT   {  80,  80, 4000, 500 }&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Such a setting would explain the excessive speeds; while the printer only needs 400 steps for advancing a single millimeter, the stepper receives 4000, this implies a tenfold, hence larger displacement and higher speeds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-09-28T17:44:48.367" LastActivityDate="2020-09-28T17:44:48.367" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14516" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14679" CreationDate="2020-09-28T16:00:06.823" Score="2" ViewCount="138" Body="&lt;p&gt;Of course I'm referring to side by side and not stacking or overlapping.  200 x 200 mm PEI and Kapton sheets are more readily available than 400 x 400 sheets.  I'm wondering if anyone has tried this and if the edges of the sheets cause a problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15075" LastActivityDate="2021-06-15T16:35:26.627" Title="Has anyone applied four 200 x 200 mm PEI sheets to a 400 x 400 mm bed?" Tags="|heated-bed|adhesion|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14518" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14516" CreationDate="2020-09-28T18:07:50.910" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I haven't tried such a thing, but a speculative answer covering the constraints and expected failure modes may suffice here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unless the sheets have squared (rather than rounded) corners, the corners will almost certainly be a problem. In particular you'd end up with a hole right at the middle of the bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the sides aren't entirely square (perpendicular) with each other then you'll have large gaps at one end or another.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As Trish noted in a comment, it's also possible that you may hit problems due to mismatch in thickness between the different sheets, although I'd expect these are fairly well-controlled in the manufacturing process; otherwise I'd expect bed leveling issues even with just a single sheet. If you do hit this kind of issue, it may be possible to avoid it with shimming of some sort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming you can avoid all of the above potential problems, I would expect what you've proposed to work reasonably well, especially if you're ok with very minor surface defects at the seams.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2020-09-28T18:07:50.910" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14519" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14527" CreationDate="2020-09-29T06:24:13.407" Score="2" ViewCount="3132" Body="&lt;h3&gt;Background&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I bought an Ender 3 v2 printer, everything has been working fine, been experimenting with harder and higher temperature filaments like different variations of PLA and PETG.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Original extruder would bite the filament too hard sometimes and snap it, if it's loose it would grind it, filling its teeth with material that needs to be cleaned out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I bought a BMG clone (TriangleLab) extruder and set it up according to BondTech instructions but without having to invert the stepper motor rotation and set E-Steps to 419, which seems to be printing fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's still using the stock hotend but with 0.6 mm hardened steel nozzle. I do have BLTouch add-on and I'm using firmware compiled from tip of &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/tree/bugfix-2.0.x&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;bugfix-2.0.x&lt;/a&gt; branch of Marlin with stock Creality v4.2.2 board. Firmware Configuration modifications were done to accommodate BLTouch alone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Problem&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have to manually heat the nozzle and manually extrude about 200-250 mm from LCD menu, otherwise once print starts, no material will come out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I checked the bowden tube with a torchlight since it's translucent using a black filament to print and noticed that after machine is stopped (from menu or after print ends), extruder will pull the filament almost all the way out while pulling up Z axis to clear some height, requiring me to manually extrude before next print so tube won't be empty. Previously with stock extruder I didn't have to do anything, the initial print on left hand side of bed or skirt print would take care of putting it back in location.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've been googling and looking at Cura and Firmware (&lt;code&gt;configuration.h&lt;/code&gt;) for a while now but I couldn't figure out why this is happening.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is my End code in Cura. I do suspect 3rd line has something to do with it but I don't understand what that means.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;G91 ;Relative positioning&#xA;G1 E-2 F2700 ;Retract a bit&#xA;G1 E-2 Z0.2 F2400 ;Retract and raise Z&#xA;G1 X5 Y5 F3000 ;Wipe out&#xA;G1 Z10 ;Raise Z more&#xA;G90 ;Absolute positioning&#xA;&#xA;G1 X0 Y{machine_depth} ;Present print&#xA;M106 S0 ;Turn-off fan&#xA;M104 S0 ;Turn-off hotend&#xA;M140 S0 ;Turn-off bed&#xA;&#xA;M84 X Y E ;Disable all steppers but Z&#xA;&#xA;M300 S440 P200&#xA;M300 S660 P250&#xA;M300 S880 P300&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Retraction settings are stock settings in Cura, haven't touched them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;code&gt;Configuration.h&lt;/code&gt; file is found &lt;a href=&quot;https://pastebin.com/rrXyp8MY&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;, the &lt;code&gt;Configuration_adv.h&lt;/code&gt; file is found &lt;a href=&quot;https://pastebin.com/gP4WqrQg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Update: This happened again with Benchy print but about 4 cm unlike previously, half of the skirt print failed but actual print was OK. Below is last part of print Gcode. End code isn't different from Cura settings printer end code.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;G1 X105.151 Y113.199 E313.92164&#xA;G0 F7200 X105.155 Y112.539&#xA;;TIME_ELAPSED:3369.503317&#xA;G1 F3000 E307.42164&#xA;M140 S0&#xA;M107&#xA;G91 ;Relative positioning&#xA;G1 E-2 F2700 ;Retract a bit&#xA;G1 E-2 Z0.2 F2400 ;Retract and raise Z&#xA;G1 X5 Y5 F3000 ;Wipe out&#xA;G1 Z10 ;Raise Z more&#xA;G90 ;Absolute positionning&#xA;&#xA;G1 X0 Y220 ;Present print&#xA;M106 S0 ;Turn-off fan&#xA;M104 S0 ;Turn-off hotend&#xA;M140 S0 ;Turn-off bed&#xA;&#xA;M84 X Y E ;Disable all steppers but Z&#xA;&#xA;M300 S440 P200&#xA;M300 S660 P250&#xA;M300 S880 P300&#xA;M82 ;absolute extrusion mode&#xA;M104 S0&#xA;;End of Gcode&#xA;;SETTING_3 {&amp;quot;extruder_quality&amp;quot;: [&amp;quot;[general]\\nversion = 4\\nname = Ideagen Nozzl&#xA;;SETTING_3 e-0.6 #3\\ndefinition = creality_ender3pro\\n\\n[metadata]\\ntype = q&#xA;;SETTING_3 uality_changes\\nquality_type = standard\\nposition = 0\\nsetting_ver&#xA;;SETTING_3 sion = 15\\nintent_category = default\\n\\n[values]\\nfill_outline_ga&#xA;;SETTING_3 ps = True\\ninfill_overlap = 10\\ninfill_sparse_density = 40\\ninitia&#xA;;SETTING_3 l_layer_line_width_factor = 120\\nironing_only_highest_layer = True\\&#xA;;SETTING_3 nmaterial_flow = 92.5\\nmaterial_print_temperature = 210\\nretraction&#xA;;SETTING_3 _count_max = 10\\nretraction_retract_speed = 50\\nspeed_print = 60\\n&#xA;;SETTING_3 speed_travel = 120.0\\nsupport_infill_rate = 5\\ntop_bottom_thickness&#xA;;SETTING_3  = 1.05\\ntop_thickness = 1.05\\nwall_thickness = 1.2\\nzig_zaggify_i&#xA;;SETTING_3 nfill = True\\n\\n&amp;quot;], &amp;quot;global_quality&amp;quot;: &amp;quot;[general]\\nversion = 4\\nna&#xA;;SETTING_3 me = Ideagen Nozzle-0.6 #3\\ndefinition = creality_ender3pro\\n\\n[me&#xA;;SETTING_3 tadata]\\ntype = quality_changes\\nquality_type = standard\\nsetting_&#xA;;SETTING_3 version = 15\\n\\n[values]\\nlayer_height = 0.35\\nlayer_height_0 = 0&#xA;;SETTING_3 .4\\nretraction_combing = infill\\n\\n&amp;quot;}&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user23764" LastEditorDisplayName="user23764" LastEditDate="2020-09-30T07:03:57.423" LastActivityDate="2021-12-10T15:27:25.193" Title="Why would my extruder remove the filament all the way out after prints? [Ender 3 v2]" Tags="|creality-ender-3|extruder|bowden|retraction|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14520" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14522" CreationDate="2020-09-29T09:25:19.687" Score="2" ViewCount="328" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to create a sketch that is constrained by surface area.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my model I have a relatively irregular, flat area that I would like to constrain by area so that it never exceeds a certain number.&#xA;There are a lot of other constraints for angles, lengths, points, lines and the area of a surface is also always available in the properties. As a rather new person to Fusion 360, it feels logical a constraint by surface area should be possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Am I missing something or is there a good reason why this constraint doesn't exist?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23765" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-09-29T09:30:07.723" LastActivityDate="2020-09-29T18:27:07.500" Title="Constrain by surface area in Fusion 360" Tags="|fusion360|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14521" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14525" CreationDate="2020-09-29T13:02:47.180" Score="0" ViewCount="1769" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am using an AnyCubic Photon Resin Printer. I have used the (&lt;a href=&quot;https://wowmodelviewer.net&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;WoW model viewer&lt;/a&gt; to export a miniture that I am hoping to 3D print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, when I look at the model in photon workshop, certain parts appear in a different colour, and those parts are printing incorrectly on the final version. For example, if you look at the model below the headpiece feathers printed as a solid block all the way to the base of the model.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OnmjT.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OnmjT.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UiLiX.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UiLiX.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looking at the slicing file, this is what photon workshop exported. I believe the issue may be that, because these are models deisigned for games and not 3d printing, they have only one surface and what I am looking at in Blue is what the photon workshop considers to be the inside of the model. Would ye be able to recommend any steps that I could do to adjust the models to allow them be 3D printed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://mega.nz/file/p6I00JZK#qhQplzOTh6w7yZxbGw2vtRRKc-iVDp_QHOvaWfPtULs&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://mega.nz/file/p6I00JZK#qhQplzOTh6w7yZxbGw2vtRRKc-iVDp_QHOvaWfPtULs&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The above link is the object as exported from WoW Model viewer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23769" LastEditorUserId="23769" LastEditDate="2020-09-29T21:01:33.753" LastActivityDate="2020-09-30T14:53:25.870" Title="How to fix WoW models in photon workshop" Tags="|3d-models|software|resin|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14522" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14520" CreationDate="2020-09-29T18:27:07.500" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;After some testing, Fusion does have a category to put in an Area parameter [edit -&amp;gt; Parameters -&amp;gt;] for Area that takes measurements in acres and &lt;em&gt;circular mil&lt;/em&gt; but no useful measurements such as square centimeters or square inch. One &lt;em&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Circular_mil&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;circular mil&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/em&gt; is defined as a circle with a radius of 1/1000 inch, or 0.0254 mm, for an area of &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$5.067×10^{−4}\text{ mm}^2$&lt;/span&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, defining the area of an item isn't (currently) straightforwardly possible: areas are not defineable, and with the obvious lack of possible parameters (square metrics and anything but super tiny or super huge) it doesn't seem to be planned. The best you can do is for bodies that you know the formula for the area in the following fashion:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DQ2tt.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DQ2tt.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here, the left measurement (d2) is 1 mm. The parameter area is 10000 circular mil. Since we know A=d1*d2, we can go A/d2=d1 for a rectangle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastActivityDate="2020-09-29T18:27:07.500" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14524" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14521" CreationDate="2020-09-30T09:34:04.097" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I believe you've identified the primary problem with this model. The single surface features are going to interfere with printing this object.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/w3l7o.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/w3l7o.png&quot; alt=&quot;reversed normals image&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The image above is the result of loading the model into Autodesk Netfabb. The red segments are reversed normals, but also single surface components. There are others, visible when rotating the model.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One portion is uncertain, above the flap on the back. It could be a component of the flap or a reversed normal of the body's back.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To resolve this problem, it would be necessary to add thickness to those features.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I loaded the model into Meshmixer and identified one feature, the rear flap. It's loaded with reversed normals when viewed from the &amp;quot;outside&amp;quot; or rear of the model.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using the select tool, it was easy enough to highlight those triangles and proceed to Edit, flip normals. That was followed by Edit, Extrude, to a thickness of -0.02 mm which presented this result:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/riAVL.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/riAVL.png&quot; alt=&quot;thickness flap&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a few &amp;quot;floating&amp;quot; features in the model. One which pops out is over the protective garb over the shoulder. Those would have to be anchored by adding features or moving that specific feature to properly intersect the body.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a few others, zero thickness portions that resemble solar panels. I suspect they are artifacts rather than intentional model features. Those can be removed in Meshmixer using a similar method, Select, Edit, Delete&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The hanging hook is a collection of intersecting faces and present a challenge. It's not my model, but I'd be inclined to completely remove that feature, or remove most of it and add a simple cylinder to attach it to the model.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are programs other than Meshmixer which will allow one to perform such manual repairs/modifications, but my skill set does not include presenting the answer for those packages.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastActivityDate="2020-09-30T09:34:04.097" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14525" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14521" CreationDate="2020-09-30T14:53:25.870" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;First of all, Fred's answer is very well but some more items to note, and a different way to fix them using blender.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After opening blender, deleting the box with &lt;code&gt;entf&lt;/code&gt; and importing the &lt;code&gt;Wavefront .obj&lt;/code&gt;, I changed to edit mode and started inspecting the colored areas for artifacts and what they were.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Layered surface only areas&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The top feathers are made up from 3 layers of surfaces:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/anUKv.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/anUKv.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This could be easily fixed by removing the middle layer, then connecting the front and back with new faces. In investigating this I also noted, that many of the faces actually are unconnected, so we fix that first, running a Merge intersecting vertices: &lt;code&gt;rightclick&lt;/code&gt; -&amp;gt; &lt;code&gt;Merge Vertices&lt;/code&gt; -&amp;gt; &lt;code&gt;By Distance&lt;/code&gt;. Then, all the lines are blue - this means, that the lines are determined as &amp;quot;sharp edges&amp;quot; so we change to edge select, &lt;code&gt;A&lt;/code&gt;, then &lt;code&gt;rightclick&lt;/code&gt; -&amp;gt; &lt;code&gt;clear sharp&lt;/code&gt;. Much better. Now, select the vertices in between the front and back, and delete them via &lt;code&gt;entf&lt;/code&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After that work-over, the area looks like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/S8Fcy.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/S8Fcy.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, next is re-skinning those edges. Select the remaining edges on the outside in pairs, then &lt;code&gt;F&lt;/code&gt; to create a face between them, rinse, and repeat. But that does not yet solve the facing issue, because the faces are an odd gradient, not pure color, and as is evident, all the normals (&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.katsbits.com/codex/show-normals/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;activate them via a menu&lt;/a&gt;):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DGL9R.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DGL9R.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All normals are messed up! so we need to recalculate them. Recalculating them is &lt;code&gt;A&lt;/code&gt; till everything is selected, then &lt;code&gt;Ctrl&lt;/code&gt;+&lt;code&gt;Shift&lt;/code&gt;+&lt;code&gt;N&lt;/code&gt;, and voila, that area is reworked to a good part:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mlbLO.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mlbLO.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, we are going to export the file as &lt;code&gt;.stl&lt;/code&gt;: even though Cura can take &lt;code&gt;.obj&lt;/code&gt;, it has trouble to analyze those for facing properly at times. So let's look if we fixed that area alright... and in Cura now looks like this (OBJ left, STL right):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tcEBN.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tcEBN.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, as I will show later, this is the work-intensive way, so don't really bother with those areas, we'll fix them all at once later.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Single surface only areas&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next, the shoulder details. Those are also one surface only, so we need to give them some heft. I am talking these (grey) ones:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TY6pG.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TY6pG.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hid the bulk of the model (the selected, orange parts) first using &lt;code&gt;H&lt;/code&gt; so it is more visible. Then I selected the upper 'wing', then pressed &lt;code&gt;E&lt;/code&gt; for extrude. Type in &lt;code&gt;.01&lt;/code&gt; to define that thickness as how much it should extrude it out. Repeat for the other part. &lt;code&gt;ALT&lt;/code&gt;+&lt;code&gt;H&lt;/code&gt; to unhide the parts we had hidden before and Voila:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YwWKC.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YwWKC.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, the newly thickened parts did not intersect the body properly yet, so we need to fix that a little, as seen here:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eC3tV.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eC3tV.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, select the area we need to fix and &lt;code&gt;E&lt;/code&gt; for Extrude. Slowly pull till the two parts intersect neatly:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3sMa1.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3sMa1.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;floating details&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next step: the floating gem in front of the head!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gr44G.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gr44G.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here fixing gets tricky. We might either just delete the crystal and print it separately and fix it with a little piece of wire later, or we need to create a strut. So, let's do the latter! We select the edges on the backside of the crystal like so...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WAfdL.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WAfdL.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;code&gt;rightclick&lt;/code&gt; -&amp;gt; &lt;code&gt;Subdivide&lt;/code&gt; and then in the lower left corner set it to 2:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/htA77.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/htA77.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Select the center and &lt;code&gt;E&lt;/code&gt;xtrude&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BEzGG.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BEzGG.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keep the area selected and &lt;code&gt;G&lt;/code&gt; for moving it down into the head, till we are happy with the look:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QRRWQ.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QRRWQ.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;superfluous surfaces&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then there are some areas that contain &amp;quot;extra&amp;quot; surfaces, those can be deleted, such as this rectangular one and this feather inside the arm:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cCi5t.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cCi5t.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GWk6F.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GWk6F.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Fixng most surface only areas&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another problematic area is the facemask, which is only a single layer, but wrapped around the face it is a little more tricky to extrude:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vfeBh.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vfeBh.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This area can be fixed by running a solidify operation, which also makes fixing the feathers individually obsolete! So, how to run solidify?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/k7xzZ.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/k7xzZ.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;On the right bar, click the wrench, in the dropdown choose solidify, set the thickness to 0.01 and... voila! Mostly fixed... well, we need to fix a few normals, as you'll see here:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XQW0R.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XQW0R.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;so, let's select everything with &lt;code&gt;A&lt;/code&gt;, then recalculate normals with &lt;code&gt;CTRL&lt;/code&gt;+&lt;code&gt;SHIFT&lt;/code&gt;+&lt;code&gt;N&lt;/code&gt;, make sure that inside is not checked in the lower right corner, so the modeled surface is on the outside shell... and we are DONE! Export as STL or OBJ and go to test it!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lbQBH.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lbQBH.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Check in Cura&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, to check if we still have reversed surfaces, I imported into Acura and... all the red areas (overhangs) are where they belong: on the underside! So... yep, we are done. Make sure to have the unify intersecting shells option on. You also might want to add some more struts for floating shoulder armor and such... It's a labor intensive work, but in the end you'll have a printable object.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3AjEK.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3AjEK.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastActivityDate="2020-09-30T14:53:25.870" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14526" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="470" CreationDate="2020-09-30T16:17:52.507" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I printed a faceplate for a Reprap X400 to use an electronic drop gage to level the bed:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6mICh.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6mICh.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;faceplate&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1ZWfE.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1ZWfE.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;extruders&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/E70mW.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/E70mW.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;back of gauge&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MjUXw.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MjUXw.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;front of gauge&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15075" LastEditorUserId="15075" LastEditDate="2020-09-30T17:24:30.283" LastActivityDate="2020-09-30T17:24:30.283" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14527" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14519" CreationDate="2020-10-01T12:33:56.767" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;As mentioned in the comments, extrusion stopped working altogether at some point halfway through a Benchy print. Once I had opened compressing lever of BMG clone extruder, I observed that gears were loose, after disassembling the extruder noticed that both extruder side and stepper motor side gears were also loosened at hex head screw keys which were keeping them in place. I ordered a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.henkel-adhesives.com/us/en/product/threadlockers/loctite_243.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;thread locker&lt;/a&gt; to address that at another time, seems like vibrations due to constant retractions loosened them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After tightening and reassembling, issue is not bad to the point prints would fail to start, however filament is not primed enough, so some of the skirt print will be blank.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also added &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3425505&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; with 608Z bearings for supporting the smooth movement of spool. Turns out 608 bearings are widely available almost everywhere, roller skates and skateboards use them, so there is a good chance your local sports shop will have it, too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I installed Octoprint on my laptop to work around this issue as below:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;G92 E0 ; Set Extruder position to 0&#xA;G1 E100 F200 ; Extrude 100 mm slowly. This is to make sure hotend is not empty and material flow is consistent, i.e. adjust temperature if necessary.&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Only then I start my prints.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I learnt that using &lt;code&gt;E&amp;lt;integer&amp;gt;&lt;/code&gt; to extrude and &lt;code&gt;E-&amp;lt;integer&amp;gt;&lt;/code&gt; retract, I can replace filament too, by using big enough numbers like 350 mm, so I don't have to fiddle with compression lever or its adjustments anymore.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update:&lt;/strong&gt; I found more mechanical problems. This issue is not software related. Please see useful advice in comments regarding retraction/priming as an improvement if not solution to this problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user23764" LastEditorDisplayName="user23764" LastEditDate="2020-10-03T12:10:45.953" LastActivityDate="2020-10-03T12:10:45.953" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14528" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14501" CreationDate="2020-10-01T14:24:00.167" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a case of &lt;a href=&quot;https://blog.codinghorror.com/the-principle-of-least-power/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Atwood's Law&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remember that &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.tinkercad.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;TinkerCAD&lt;/a&gt; runs entirely in your web browser. If your Raspberri Pi can browse the web, you can do basic 3D modeling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Similarly, there is an online slicer available at &lt;a href=&quot;https://cnc-apps.com/en/app/stl2gcode&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;cnc-apps.com&lt;/a&gt; — probably others, too. If you can browse the web, you can slice an STL to create gcode suitable for most printers. It's free to use (with limits) for guests. However, I haven't used it personally so I can't speak to the quality at this time. (If anyone wants to try this out, I'd love to hear your results).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The final step is getting the printer to run the generated g-code, and here we have our old friend &lt;a href=&quot;https://octoprint.org/download/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;OctoPrint&lt;/a&gt;. I'm currently running this on a Raspberry Pi of my own. However, I'd be hesitant to give the Pi over to running the printer if it's your only computer. In most cases I would instead copy the gcode file to an sd card, but as the particular printer here it seems to support wifi it's likely you can upload the gcode directly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12562" LastEditorUserId="12562" LastEditDate="2020-10-08T22:26:58.227" LastActivityDate="2020-10-08T22:26:58.227" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14531" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14532" CreationDate="2020-10-01T21:49:18.667" Score="2" ViewCount="337" Body="&lt;p&gt;My goal is to have a speaker inside a PLA casing to produce a nice hearable sound from a submersible item.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I intended to produce that sound from a Piezo buzzer stuck on a membrane held tight in hollow place between two pieces, but the result is unsatisfactory as the sound gets muffled to inaudible levels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any known 3D printable methods to permit for a sound to be heard from PLA?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TLaB3.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TLaB3.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23750" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-10-02T07:12:02.937" LastActivityDate="2023-11-29T06:25:31.737" Title="Can PLA carry sound coming from a loud speaker?" Tags="|print-material|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14532" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14531" CreationDate="2020-10-01T22:21:06.737" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;In space, no one can hear you scream. That's because there's no air to be vibrated, which is part of the definition of sound.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the case of your model, the described diaphragm will generate sound because it is surrounded by air. The vibrations in the air will transfer (and reflect) from the PLA shell you've created.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In order to hear as much sound as possible, you have to have as thin a shell as possible and only one of them. It would be more effective if you could incorporate the membrane into the shell, which eliminates the sound damping effect of the plastic sphere.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Barring that option, one layer (vase mode, but probably not) would present the created sound with a much less massive amount of plastic to vibrate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally, PLA is not known for being water tight. One can apply epoxy or other sealants to make it so, but that will add mass to the overall equation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastActivityDate="2020-10-01T22:21:06.737" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14533" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14531" CreationDate="2020-10-02T13:48:25.007" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You are asking about acoustics (see &lt;a href=&quot;https://web.archive.org/web/20181024161442/http://www.cs.tut.fi/%7Esgn14006/PDF/L02-acoustics.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Sound, Acoustics&lt;/a&gt;). The main parameters you are dealing with can be seen in the simple harmonic model: flexibility (spring) and mass. Thinner walls give you more spring and less mass. Different filament materials will also change these parameters. One thing to consider is PLA becomes more brittle as it absorbs moisture.  Someone who designs acoustical musical instruments could probably help you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, note that the ideal acoustics is different for a person speaking versus music, such as orchestra or band. Thus, application is essential. For example, if you are building earphones, you want to dampen external sound.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15075" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2023-11-29T06:25:31.737" LastActivityDate="2023-11-29T06:25:31.737" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14534" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-10-02T18:53:36.137" Score="1" ViewCount="2263" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have this issue with my 3D prints on my Ender 3 printer bed. The first 5-8 layers are wider than the rest (exaggerated illustration shown in the 3D rendering below), I think this is because the 3D nozzle is so close to the bed during the first few layers of the print, thus creating a rim/bulge out at the bottom. However, I can't lower the bed any further, else the model will not stick to the bed like it is supposed to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do I fix this issue and still allow the nozzle to stay close enough to the bed to make the model stick properly?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/H0RCA.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/H0RCA.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;3D model rim issue&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additional information:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I am using a glass bed&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;printing with PLA,&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;that I print at around 185-200 °C&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;and for the bed, I heat it at about 50C °C.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;I Tried:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I have tried lowering the bed. Outcome: the print doesn't stick to the bed as it should and just falls off.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lowering the heat of the bed. Outcome: The same thing.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Increasing the initial layer height. Outcome: The same plus the additional layers on top all go out of wack.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23125" LastEditorUserId="23125" LastEditDate="2020-10-03T22:21:35.003" LastActivityDate="2020-11-03T20:02:20.223" Title="Issue with rim of first 5-8 layers of my Prints" Tags="|creality-ender-3|adhesion|bed|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ClosedDate="2020-11-04T19:32:23.687" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14536" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14538" CreationDate="2020-10-03T15:43:04.700" Score="1" ViewCount="837" Body="&lt;p&gt;After some months of good quality prints, since yesterday my heatbed does not heat anymore.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've a BQ Prusa i3 Hephestos with &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.reprap.org/wiki/File:RRD-Mk2b-dual-power_blk.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; heatbed, controlled by &lt;a href=&quot;https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/71M29xMMLZL._AC_SY355_.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; mechanical relay and powered by &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.amazon.it/Lixada-Trasformatore-Tensione-Interruttore-Alimentazione/dp/B00ECW6K74&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; power source. I know that a mechanical relay is not the best choice for a 3D printer, but I only had one of those when I've built the bed and setting &lt;em&gt;bang bang control&lt;/em&gt; for the plate gave me some satisfactory prints.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since if I connect directly the heatbed to the power source, the latter stops working (I think because of its shortage protection), I'm almost sure that in some way I've managed to fry my heatbed.&#xA;Before buying a new one, though, I'd like to understand how I've broken the current heatbed without doing anything but printing, to avoid similar situations in the future.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm afraid I've forgotten some component whose functionality is to protect the heatbed (maybe a diode or something similar, I'm sorry but I have never studied electronics).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've attached a very simple wiring diagram showing the current configuration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8bHA7.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8bHA7.png&quot; alt=&quot;Wiring diagram&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user23804" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-10-04T09:17:28.320" LastActivityDate="2020-10-05T17:09:08.760" Title="Short-circuited heatbed" Tags="|heated-bed|electronics|bq-hephestos|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14537" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14536" CreationDate="2020-10-03T23:37:57.253" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Assuming you are using the correct voltage hot bed, what you have set up should be just fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other hand, if it’s a 12 volt bed with a 24 volt power supply, you could have easily burned it out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the voltages were matched properly, you may have just gotten unlucky.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20164" LastActivityDate="2020-10-03T23:37:57.253" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14538" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14536" CreationDate="2020-10-04T09:27:04.140" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I see four points of error:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The heatbed could be faulty.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The lines could be faulty.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The trigger signal could be faulty.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The power supply could be faulty.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, how to check what it might be? We need to measure, but we need to measure in a setup of 12/24 V circuits while they are live. While not necessarily considered &amp;quot;dangerous&amp;quot;, take extra precautions! Remove the parts you will need to access from the machine, ground the power supply, and use your utmost care! Make sure the heatbed is not connected to the Power supply, so we can measure it in the safest way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Ruling out the Heatbed&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first step can be done without power: the resistance of the heatbed should be non-0, non-open line. It's best to measure directly at the input pins to the bed. If it shows close to 0 (some milli-Ohms), open line (OL), or no continuity (NC), it has a short or is burned out and needs to be replaced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Ruling out the Power Supply&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once we have reached a safe setup, take a voltmeter and measure the voltage (potential difference) on the pins you reserve for the heatbed. If it is 12 V with some tolerance, it's good, otherwise you might need to get a new power supply or have a professional fix yours.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Ruling out the trigger signal&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next, move your measuring to the output of the board. Now order your board to heat up the bed. Make no illusions, we &lt;strong&gt;will&lt;/strong&gt; trigger TRP, as the bed is disconnected. This will need us to reset the board between tests. You should see a 5 V trigger signal. If not, your board or firmware might be faulty and require different investigations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Ruing out the lines and switch&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next step is to swap to Resistance mode on the multimeter and measure the resistance of the switch, best with the whole power line. Under &amp;quot;heating&amp;quot;, the setup should show a close to 0 Ohm resistance, if not it should show an infinite or open line.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;What now?!&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it is neither of the 4, reassemble on the test stand, reconnect the bed to the power supply and investigate all connections between the elements we just checked. Now order a heating procedure - as all components should be ok, it has to be one of the interfaces between the parts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2020-10-05T17:09:08.760" LastActivityDate="2020-10-05T17:09:08.760" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14540" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14534" CreationDate="2020-10-04T19:44:26.520" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The bed and filament temperatures you are using are the usual ones for PLA, so it probably is not the case that the filament is flowing too much and oozing out of place (*).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So most likely the problem is with the slicer. Things to look for:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Most slicers print the first layer in a slightly different way than all other layers (to improve adherence to the bed) and some parameters may be off:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Easiest check: repeat the print with a different slicer; if it goes better it was a slicer setting that needs finetuning.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;More involved check:&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;For Cura make sure &amp;quot;initial layer height&amp;quot;, &amp;quot;initial layer line width&amp;quot;, &amp;quot;initial layer horizontal expansion&amp;quot; and &amp;quot;initial layer flow&amp;quot; have the default values.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;For Prusa Slicer reset &amp;quot;first layer height&amp;quot;, &amp;quot;first layer extrusion width&amp;quot; and &amp;quot;elephant foot compensation&amp;quot; to their default values.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Additionally, most slicers will disable the fan for the first few layers. Change the setting so that the fan is only disabled for the first layer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(*) That is of course unless you got a bad batch of filament. Less probable than the slicer settings being off, but check with a completely different PLA filament to verify.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23812" LastActivityDate="2020-10-04T19:44:26.520" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14544" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-10-06T02:46:57.940" Score="2" ViewCount="478" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have designed and built a top-down SLA 3D printer that uses a 405 nm 500 mW laser along with some galvanometers. I filled the vat with glycerin and then topped it off with about 2.5 cm of resin. I designed a wiper system for creating an even layer of resin quickly even on layers with large surface area. In my tests I have been dunking the build plate into the resin and then raising it to wipe the excess off to get a quick even layer (I raise it slightly above the level of the resin to be safe).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem I am having is that after the wiper wipes and the laser cures the layer, after a couple of layers the wiper will begin physically hitting the top of the part. The part continues to get higher and higher than the wiper level, which doesn't make sense because the wiper wipes all the excess off, and I am printing above the level of the resin so no extra resin is flowing onto the layer from the sides. This eventually stalls the wiper motor and the print fails.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a theory that the resin's surface tension might be pulling the layer of resin to the edges of the layer, causing the layer of resin to &amp;quot;bulge&amp;quot; up a little which would explain why the layer is curing higher than the wiper level. If this is the case does anyone know of any remedies to this? Do I have to heat the resin to lower its surface tension maybe?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Have any of you guys ever had this issue? Does anyone have any other theories? I am really stumped here and can't wait to start printing some cool models but I cannot continue experimentation until this is solved.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks so much in advance for any help!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(I should mention I am using Anycubic Plant-Based Eco UV Resin in translucent green)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23825" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-10-06T05:28:25.240" LastActivityDate="2022-10-31T06:16:42.177" Title="Top-Down SLA Printer Bulging Issue" Tags="|diy-3d-printer|resin|sla|dlp|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14545" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14544" CreationDate="2020-10-06T17:23:23.730" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Let's look at the problem mathematically:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The bed has a 0 that puts the surface some distance &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$d_0$&lt;/span&gt; above the surface of the resin, the wiper does put the first layer on that height.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;after curing, the printer moves down distance &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$d_d$&lt;/span&gt; to coat the top surface.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;afterwards, the bed lowers back up to &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$d_0+d_l$&lt;/span&gt; - a thickness of 1 layer lower, or in other terms, it moves &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$-(d_d-d_l)$&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, how is it implemented in your G-code? check that!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastActivityDate="2020-10-06T17:23:23.730" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14546" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14531" CreationDate="2020-10-06T17:50:32.527" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I did a lot of experimentation in this a couple years ago.  The limitation on the sound is the amount of energy you can apply to the plastic, and the ability of the plastic to respond (move to) that energy.  I ended up using epoxy to fasten a transducer directly to the plastic wall, and while the sound quality was not great (I could not have used it for speech or music) it was adequate to make the alarm sound, 50% PWM @ 3.3V and I controlled the frequency using the Arduino 'tone' library to control the frequency. I printed that side solid (no infill) and a bit thinner than the other sides (2mm instead of 4mm), printed it separately and then used epoxy to glue in (and its attached transducer) to the cube I was using for the rest of the circuitry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10900" LastActivityDate="2020-10-06T17:50:32.527" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14549" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3070" CreationDate="2020-10-07T09:32:48.673" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is the Free online tool to convert STL to OFF within second: &lt;a href=&quot;https://cadcook.com/stl-off/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://cadcook.com/stl-off/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I used it for stl conversations..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23844" LastActivityDate="2020-10-07T09:32:48.673" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14550" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14389" CreationDate="2020-10-07T21:54:17.510" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/14394&quot;&gt;This answer&lt;/a&gt; hints to changing the print orientation to prevent the slicer to create &amp;quot;pockets&amp;quot; that are filled later. But, since we cannot see the rest of the design, or for more complex designs, it is possible that you cannot change the orientation. Maybe concentric pattern will help you, but that doesn't always works or looks fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, there is a way to solve this (but it requires a different slicer then Cura) using the upcoming release of PrusaSlicer as discussed during &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/NAW2JR-D_QU?t=35m35s&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Prusa Live #3, live stream @ June, 17 2020&lt;/a&gt; under &amp;quot;Ironing &amp;amp; Monotone infill&amp;quot;. The monotone infill will fill in the &amp;quot;pockets&amp;quot; in the same direction to prevent defects caused by build-up of filament at the wrong side. This feature may be very useful for better filling in layers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-10-09T07:19:20.830" LastActivityDate="2020-10-09T07:19:20.830" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14551" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-10-07T23:30:03.523" Score="0" ViewCount="558" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am trying to look for my options for generating a custom infill pattern which complies to a geometry that I want to repeat. I can get the geometrical coordinates too in order to make the final shape. Has anyone done so previously?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23849" LastActivityDate="2020-11-07T00:02:00.333" Title="Custom Infill Pattern Based on Self-Generated Geometry" Tags="|infill|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14552" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14551" CreationDate="2020-10-07T23:37:28.323" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;From my experience, this is hard, particularly because slicers are not made to handle it well. They generally do their infill generation efficiently in terms of 2D geometry, built as a function of the layer height and the outline(s) in the layer. Of course you can actually make the infill pattern part of your model geometry, or use a separate model intersected with the interior of your model as the infill, but having the infill structure be 3D geometry means that the slicer will be quantizing it to layers, and will have a hard time generating exactly-one-line-thickness extrusions that print will for the infill cross sections.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do want to do this anyway, OpenSCAD provides the tools to do the necessary intersection of your generated geometry pattern with the model interior.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2020-10-07T23:37:28.323" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14553" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-10-08T18:26:49.143" Score="0" ViewCount="9049" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am trying to add an Octopi to my Ender 3 V2 but the Pi cannot detect the printer at all. So I try to connect to Windows and same result. The display turns on and is functional, but when checking device manager there is nothing to be found. I am using the 2.0.7 Marlin firmware on the machine and have tried about 6 different USB cables/other ports.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23863" LastActivityDate="2020-10-11T00:49:22.310" Title="Ender 3 V2 USB connection powers screen, but isn't detected by PC or Pi" Tags="|creality-ender-3|troubleshooting|octoprint|usb|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14557" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-10-09T14:46:41.623" Score="1" ViewCount="451" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am a raw beginner at FreeCAD and 3D draughting. Watched some tutorials and designed 2-3 simple items. Aiming to use it for 3D printing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question relates to 2D sketching. As I understand the workflow, one draws 2D items that one can then extrude, cut etc. So one picks the drawing axes (eg X and Y), and the sketch is then at Z axis zero. After extruding, one can place another sketch on a face for further extruding etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But the sketch is always at relative Z/3&lt;sup&gt;rd&lt;/sup&gt; axis zero.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Consider a fairly large block extruded 10 mm thick. Say I want (example only, never mind  why) to cut a 20 mm disk from the interior, 3 mm deep, 5 mm from the bottom surface therefore 2 mm from the top.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I place a sketch on the top surface, make a 20 mm circle and use that to cut a hole, the cut will always start at the top surface - but I want it to start 2 mm down. I.e. it seems to me I need to be able to offset the sketch from local Z/3&lt;sup&gt;rd&lt;/sup&gt; axis zero, in this case to -2 mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can one do that, or have I missed the point somewhere?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23876" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-10-09T19:14:30.557" LastActivityDate="2020-10-09T21:09:36.807" Title="Beginner FreeCAD question on axes when sketching" Tags="|freecad|sketchup|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14558" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-10-09T20:49:52.050" Score="2" ViewCount="285" Body="&lt;p&gt;My Anycubic Predator prints really well except for everything being backwards. Text and anything that is right or left handed comes out mirrored. The same files print correctly on other printers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this a software issue or hardware?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23879" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-10-09T22:09:06.720" LastActivityDate="2020-10-13T07:01:40.147" Title="Why does my Anycubic Predator print backwards?" Tags="|delta|anycubic-predator|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14560" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14557" CreationDate="2020-10-09T21:09:36.807" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This answer assumes you're working in the Part Design workbench.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So you want to adjust the starting height of a pad or pocket. There are two ways I can think of to do this easily.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Adjust the Z attachment value of the sketch to lower the sketch below the surface.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use the &amp;quot;two dimensions&amp;quot; option in the pad/pocket operation and set the second value negative.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By the way, it is highly suggested not to attach a sketch to a surface. The current development version (0.19) and previous versions have an issue (&lt;a href=&quot;https://wiki.freecadweb.org/Topological_naming_problem&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&amp;quot;topographical naming&amp;quot;&lt;/a&gt;) where editing a previous feature can change the internal name of a face causing the attachment to break. There is a solution under development but it doesn't loom like it will get in earlier than 0.20. You should instead simply adjust the Z attachment value to match the face you want.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, there is a very active (and very helpful) forum &lt;a href=&quot;https://forum.freecadweb.org/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;. I'd suggest asking further FreeCAD questions there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20164" LastActivityDate="2020-10-09T21:09:36.807" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14562" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14577" CreationDate="2020-10-10T18:33:50.613" Score="0" ViewCount="194" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am trying to 3D print an object from Shapeways. Confidentiality prevents me from sharing the actual STL files publicly, but what I can say is that it's a shape about 2 cm tall x 4 cm wide x 4 cm deep, and where the design specifies a vertical hole 5 mm in diameter, the hole comes out fine, but where the design specifies multiple holes 3 mm in diameter, passing diagonally through the shape (at a 45° angle with the ground), the holes seem to collapse (i.e. I can't see through them, and if I push a straightened paper clip through the hole, it's blocked). This has happened repeatedly (e.g. Shapeways offered to re-print some shapes for free when they came out defective, but this happened the second time too).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am new to 3D printing and trying to figure out:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Is the hole more likely to &amp;quot;collapse&amp;quot; if it's diagonal rather than straight up and down? Is this because when the shape is being 3D printed, it's oriented exactly as shown in the design, and so before the 3D printing materials have fully solidified, the holes are more likely to be collapsed by gravity? Or does it have more to do with the diameter of the holes, and if I made the shape with 5 mm diagonal holes, they might not collapse?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The material I'm picking from Shapeways's options is &amp;quot;Black Natural Versatile Plastic&amp;quot;. Are there other materials that are less likely to have this problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23886" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-10-10T21:34:19.310" LastActivityDate="2020-10-12T22:40:04.293" Title="Vertical 5 mm diameter hole comes out fine, but diagonal 3 mm holes keep collapsing" Tags="|troubleshooting|3d-design|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14563" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14572" CreationDate="2020-10-10T19:46:37.463" Score="1" ViewCount="600" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have designed this model:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZAoeP.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZAoeP.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My goal is to make it static, no vulnarable to shakes.&#xA;The pitch is 40 mm with 4 revolutions. The dimensions of the 'wire' are 5x5 mm.&#xA;Which settings for printing should I use to archieve hardness? I plan to make the wire 5x10 mm height, 4 walls, 0.28 layer height, 0.5 nozzle size. PLA. I don't know if this is overkill or it will be useless.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope you can give me suggestions about printing settings and model dimensions.&#xA;I know that's spring design, which is made to be springy but I need it for other use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second design. Less springy, but not by much. My last hope is to print it horizontaly.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Q8pxZ.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Q8pxZ.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23838" LastEditorUserId="23838" LastEditDate="2020-10-11T02:44:01.860" LastActivityDate="2020-10-12T15:01:39.870" Title="How to print spiral(spring) static?" Tags="|3d-models|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14564" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14553" CreationDate="2020-10-11T00:49:22.310" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;After trying about 10 USB cables I finally found one that would work with the Ender and Pi. Specifically, it was my Logitech MX Ergo USB cable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23863" LastActivityDate="2020-10-11T00:49:22.310" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14567" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13821" CreationDate="2020-10-12T06:22:53.607" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You have found a bug in the OctoPrint plugin. As you noticed, not more than 20 graphs can be created/open at a time. This implies that the developer has not implemented pyplot correctly, this is a common mistake that I have ran into myself once or twice. You should notify the developer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem is that the old graph is not destroyed or not properly updated (I think it is intended to update the graph). The code passes the create plot multiple times and after 20 graphs it will drop the error message.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you reset the Pi or reload the Octoprint server you are probably good to go for another 20 graphs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2020-10-12T06:22:53.607" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14568" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-10-12T07:19:19.633" Score="0" ViewCount="351" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know this issue has been asked countless times before, but I haven't been able to fix my specific Ender 3 printer. I have been looking virtually everywhere via Reddit and here for answers, but I really don't have a clue what's going on and how to fix it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;i got my printer a couple months ago but just started recently using it often. i managed to get it to print several things successfully, but after one specific print, my Ender 3 printer decided to &amp;quot;home&amp;quot; itself to the top left corner of the printer. normally my Ender 3 printer auto-homes to the bottom left corner. ever since that weird &amp;quot;homing&amp;quot; incident, my printer has been never printing things out correctly. here's what has been happening:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;my prints are never in the center of the print bed anymore.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;my printer would move its y-axis to move the test bed away from the front of the printer even though it already is. this causes the motor to stutter and the entire bed to not move.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;my printer would start extruding material on the very edge of the bed.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;i believe what's happening is that the printer believes that the bed is somewhere where it actually isn't. my printer for the most part knew that it was always &amp;quot;centered&amp;quot; at the bottom left of the print bed, but now it seems as though it thinks that it is now centered at the top left corner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;i hope this all makes sense; i've been looking into several solutions but really am worried that those solutions won't work out for me. i appreciate all help and advice. i am a complete noob to 3d printing and am really stuck. thanks in advance!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23901" LastActivityDate="2020-10-12T07:19:19.633" Title="Ender 3 Printer not printing @ center for reasons unknown" Tags="|creality-ender-3|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14569" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13821" CreationDate="2020-10-12T10:58:42.283" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have formatted the SD card and installed Octoprint from scratch. That's nasty, because I lost all the models I uploaded.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems to be a bug in &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/PrusaOwners/OctoPrint-PrusaMeshMap/blob/master/octoprint_PrusaMeshMap/__init__.py&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;__init__.py&lt;/a&gt; of OctoPrint-PrusaMeshMap (archived Github repository).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That code saves the heatmap in this line:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;fig.savefig(self.get_asset_folder() + '/img/heatmap.png', bbox_inches=&amp;quot;tight&amp;quot;)&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It uses Pyplot&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;import matplotlib.pyplot as plt&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and thus the code should probably use (untested!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;plt.close(fig) &#xA;del fig&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;to free the resources.&#xA;Unfortunately it's not possible to file this as an issue because the Github repository is in archived mode and thus readonly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1570" LastEditorUserId="1570" LastEditDate="2020-10-12T11:10:41.377" LastActivityDate="2020-10-12T11:10:41.377" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14570" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14579" CreationDate="2020-10-12T11:27:14.187" Score="1" ViewCount="916" Body="&lt;p&gt;I love PrusaSlicer but I am having a problem.&#xA;As you can see in the picture the head makes movements that seem useless&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1CLrS.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1CLrS.png&quot; alt=&quot;Previsualisation&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(blue lines that come out of the print in the corners and go back instantly in the object) and these make damages to the object during the print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UOA3y.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UOA3y.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;During the print&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How to configure PrusaSlicer so that doesn't happen again ?&#xA;Thank you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit : Thank you for your answers but I think we have a misunderstanding. I already have z-hop activated, the real problem is that the slicer makes the head move outside the print (that's what you can see on the first screenshot, every blue line crossing the print shouldn't exist).&#xA;I actually don't have this problem with curaengine on repetierhost as you can see in the following screenshot :&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/c0b73.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/c0b73.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23902" LastEditorUserId="23902" LastEditDate="2020-10-13T14:23:12.443" LastActivityDate="2020-10-13T15:59:21.780" Title="Useless head movements in PrusaSlicer" Tags="|slic3r|prusaslicer|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14571" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14570" CreationDate="2020-10-12T12:05:43.003" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Enable Z-Hop. I don't know what the actual parameter is called but it should say something like &amp;quot;Z-Hop&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12857" LastActivityDate="2020-10-12T12:05:43.003" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14572" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14563" CreationDate="2020-10-12T15:01:39.870" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you want an helicoidal object which acts relatively rigid, you should pick a plastic which is very rigid to begin with. In the case of 3D printing, probably PLA is the best choice. Make it as thick as you can in all the directions where you have no constraints.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Still, it's an object which will be hardly printable without dissolving support material. You need a two material 3D printer if you want to get good results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2338" LastActivityDate="2020-10-12T15:01:39.870" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14573" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14570" CreationDate="2020-10-12T15:59:22.967" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;In PrusaSlicer 2.0, use the Filament Settings Tab, Filament Overrides entry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lxXYU.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lxXYU.png&quot; alt=&quot;Slicer settings&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Look for Lift Z, click the box, enter a suitable figure. 0.2 is a good place to start. You can raise it if needed, lower it to decrease (minimally) the overall print time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastActivityDate="2020-10-12T15:59:22.967" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14575" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14558" CreationDate="2020-10-12T20:12:40.210" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The right-hand coordinate system is the most used system on printers. So, when facing the front of the printer, the most common arrangement using a  is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;X+ will move the print head to the right&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Y+ will move the print head away from you (towards the back of the printer)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a Delta printer, when facing the printer, the Z pillar/tower should be at the back, the X tower on the left and the Y tower on the right. Do note that these tower are not corresponding to the axes movement, but are simply named as such so that you can use the designated stepper axes as indicated on your controller board. If you position the printer this way you have access between the X and Y pillars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the prints are mirrored in X direction, you need to swap X and Y steppers. X is the left column, Y the right.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-10-13T07:01:40.147" LastActivityDate="2020-10-13T07:01:40.147" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14576" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14704" CreationDate="2020-10-12T21:23:57.327" Score="1" ViewCount="747" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am currently building a Hypercube Evolution from a kit that was passed on to me. It uses a BIQU KFB2.0 control board and a 24 volt power supply. I have no prior experience in 3D printing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was getting to the end of the build. Everything was working. I was testing every component as I added it using Pronterface. I have not covered the aluminium heated bed with anything as I did not want to cause problems for the induction sensor (used as Z Min endstop). The induction sensor has a 4 mm range for ferrous metal and less for aluminium. I was intending to print on blue tape.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One website I visited suggested using feeler gauges as a better choice when levelling the bed. So I did. What I did not know is that both the hotend and the bed have power running to the outer surface. I found out when a feeler gauge touched the bed and the hotend at the same time. Since then, my LCD display gives the message &amp;quot;Thermal Runaway E1 press reset&amp;quot;. I have pressed reset on the control board to no avail. Short press, long (5 and 10 seconds) and double press. None of which work. I have disconnected the hotend and it's thermistor from the control board. I have tried using another thermistor, but to no avail. Pronterface, when trying to connect, gives the following two lines:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&amp;quot;Error: Thermal Runaway, system stopped! Heater_ID: 0&#xA;Error: Printer halted, kill() called!&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have disconnected all wires from the control board other than those leading to the LCD screen. The only power coming from the PSU. Still have the Thermal Runaway E1 error.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have also re-compiled Marlin 2.0.6.1 using Auto Build Marlin and uploaded to the board, still the error persists. Anybody any idea how to fix this problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23909" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-10-12T21:44:00.387" LastActivityDate="2020-11-01T10:32:26.250" Title="Thermal Runaway E1" Tags="|troubleshooting|printer-building|hypercube|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14577" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14562" CreationDate="2020-10-12T22:40:04.293" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A member of the public on Stack Exchange's forum gave me the answer:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&amp;quot;The problem is not the hole 'collapsing' in and of itself. The problem is the material.&#xA;Versatile Plastic is a layered powder fused together with a laser in multiple layers, so the unused power has to come out from the various holes in the model once printing is completed. However, these layers are also very thin and compact. Therefore, if you make a small enough hole, the powder simply won't flow through it and it becomes stuck. Due to the small dimensions you listed (of said hole) it's gonna be difficult to free it due to the sheer compressing forces involved. When working with such fine details Versatile Plastic is not the most indicated material.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only correction you can make to rectify the problem is changing material. Fine Detail Plastic would be a good choice for a new test, although it is not cheap compared to Versatile, is certainly cheaper than metals.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fine Detail Plastic should provide you with a good result if you feel like trying it out.&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;ShapeWays technical support told me basically the same thing, and added that ordering the shape in black might also exacerbate the problem:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;He said that when a model has holes in it, a human actually pokes the holes to get residual material out if possible.  Then he adds: &amp;quot;The last issue would be that Black indeed causes additional issues. If the production team isn't able to clean the model properly, or didn't do their work right, this could become and issue when we dye your model. All Versatile Plastic is printed in White, when selecting a colored finish such as black, we dye the model using a bath of regular RIT DYE. If the hole still has trapped powder, the bath will make the loose powder wet and make it become sticky, in combination with the dye this causes it to become chunky on the inside.&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;TL;DR: I can try to fix it by using Fine Detail Plastic, or I could try ordering in white and then painting it black myself to avoid gunking up the holes (the insides of the holes don't need to be painted black).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23886" LastActivityDate="2020-10-12T22:40:04.293" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14578" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-10-13T01:19:44.160" Score="1" ViewCount="274" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an Ender 3 Pro with a Bigtree SKR board. I just replaced the entire hot end (thermistor, heating element, Micro Swiss hotend).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now when I try to print a Benchy everything seems fine until maybe the 3rd or 4th layer. Then the PLA stops flowing so I stop the print and the temperature flies back up from 220 to 260 °C on its own (I do not want to print at 260 °C, I want to print at 220 °C). This makes me assume the PLA is stopping because the temperature is too hot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What would cause this? Did I wreck the thermistor when I was putting it in? Is it a firmware issue? Why isn't runaway protection turning it off?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="24911" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2020-10-13T02:57:54.033" LastActivityDate="2020-10-13T02:57:54.033" Title="Why does Marlin report the wrong temperature until print is stopped?" Tags="|troubleshooting|hotend|thermistor|all-metal-hotend|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14579" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14570" CreationDate="2020-10-13T15:59:21.780" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found the solution :&#xA;It was the option &amp;quot;avoid crossing perimeters&amp;quot; that seems to do exactly the contrary of what it means.&#xA;Thank you all for your answers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23902" LastActivityDate="2020-10-13T15:59:21.780" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14580" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14581" CreationDate="2020-10-13T19:10:24.833" Score="0" ViewCount="218" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've started learning G-code for 3D printing and I'm quite confused.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm using an Ultimaker S5 printer and the firmware is : 5.5.12 - 20200226-UltiBot&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is there a difference between &lt;code&gt;G1 F1200 X188 Y92 E0.01&lt;/code&gt; and &lt;code&gt;G1 X188 Y92 F1200 E0.01&lt;/code&gt;?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Most of my code looks like: &lt;code&gt;G1 X[coordinate] Y[coordinate] E[num]&lt;/code&gt; without Z!&#xA;How is this possible?! My model is a 3D-model so how come the letter Z appears about 5 times in tens of papers?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any help would be greatly appreciated!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="24916" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-10-14T21:33:45.033" LastActivityDate="2020-10-15T12:51:00.490" Title="Order in a line command in G-code" Tags="|g-code|3d-printerworks|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14581" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14580" CreationDate="2020-10-13T20:05:33.200" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I haven't used every flavor of gcode or firmware, but I've never seen the parameter order be important, provided that:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;strong&gt;G&lt;/strong&gt; or &lt;strong&gt;M&lt;/strong&gt; code was the initial entry; and&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Each parameter was clearly listed with one or more spaces between parameters; and&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;No spaces were in between the parameter letter and the value.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We use a custom version of Repetier firmware to run 3D printers and Fadal CNC machines, and in every use &lt;code&gt; G1 F1200 X188 Y92 E0.01&lt;/code&gt; would be evaluated and executed completely identically to &lt;code&gt;G1 X188 Y92 F1200 E0.01&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Nearly all gocde variable values are persistent, so if Z remains unchanged because it is only specified once per layer, or if Z remains unchanged because it is explicitly specified (with the same value) on every line, there should be no difference in the behavior of the printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4922" LastEditorUserId="4922" LastEditDate="2020-10-13T20:33:34.680" LastActivityDate="2020-10-13T20:33:34.680" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14583" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-10-13T21:04:45.580" Score="0" ViewCount="77" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am not an expert and I may use slightly wrong terminology here.  Please assume I have used the incorrect term if something I say does not quite add up. I have a Monoprice MP Select printer which had some PLA go brittle and really jam up the feed in the hot-end.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While trying to clear the hotend - including removing stuff from inside the hotend heatsink a small, dark grey/black, round washer with outer diameter of about 5 mm fell out the bottom of the machine.  I'm scratching my head as to where, if anywhere this belongs on the machine.  It is entirely likely that this is not from the hot-end but fell off a pocket tool I was using without me noticing.  &lt;em&gt;Does anyone know if there are any small washers associated with the hotend?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I ask if anyone knows if this is part of the printer because subsequent to my clearing the head, the printer is not printing properly - everything still works - kind-of - just prints are messier.   I initially had problems with getting the print to stick to the bed at all until I readjusted the bed - something I have not had to do before, and I'm unsure why I would suddenly need to.   I'm posit it could simply relate to pressure  I may have inadvertently applied while clearing the hotend and the fairly fine tolerances, but I don't know enough to know if it is actually due to a missing part!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally, I've been unable to find an explosion/tear-down/parts visualisation for this printer or hot end - if anyone knows of any that would be very useful, although that's not my question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6331" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-10-14T06:22:18.107" LastActivityDate="2020-10-14T06:22:18.107" Title="Design of hotend of Monoprice MP Select printer" Tags="|monoprice-select-mini|part-identification|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14585" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12168" CreationDate="2020-10-13T23:00:39.823" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately, I faced the same problem. The heated chamber will not be accurate enough due to lack of PID tuning. As a result, the temp will differ up to 10 degrees celsius when the heater is on. Is a big difference that will either not dry your filament enough or in the worst scenario will melt it. You will need to enable other features in order to bypass the issue. Find below how I enabled the 2nd heater element with the exact same setup as yours. You need to define the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#define EXTRUDERS 2&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the following part you must change the &lt;code&gt;SERVO_NR&lt;/code&gt; to &lt;code&gt;-1&lt;/code&gt; otherwise you will face issues in case you are using a BLTouch, for example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;// A dual extruder that uses a single stepper motor&#xA;#define SWITCHING_EXTRUDER&#xA;#if ENABLED(SWITCHING_EXTRUDER)&#xA;  #define SWITCHING_EXTRUDER_SERVO_NR -1 &#xA;  #define SWITCHING_EXTRUDER_SERVO_ANGLES { 0, 90 } // Angles for E0, E1[, E2, E3]&#xA;  #if EXTRUDERS &amp;gt; 3&#xA;    #define SWITCHING_EXTRUDER_E23_SERVO_NR 1&#xA;  #endif&#xA;#endif&#xA;&#xA;// A dual-nozzle that uses a servomotor to raise/lower one (or both) of the nozzles&#xA;#define SWITCHING_NOZZLE&#xA;#if ENABLED(SWITCHING_NOZZLE)&#xA;  #define SWITCHING_NOZZLE_SERVO_NR -1&#xA;  //#define SWITCHING_NOZZLE_E1_SERVO_NR 1          // If two servos are used, the index of the second&#xA;  #define SWITCHING_NOZZLE_SERVO_ANGLES { 0, 90 }   // Angles for E0, E1 (single servo) or lowered/raised (dual servo)&#xA;#endif&#xA;&#xA;-----------------------------&#xA;&#xA;#define TEMP_SENSOR_1 1&#xA;&#xA;-----------------------------&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And finally, you must &lt;code&gt;#define PID_PARAMS_PER_HOTEND&lt;/code&gt; in order to be able to PID tuning the 2nd heater which will be used for your inline filament dryer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="24920" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2020-10-14T05:04:16.300" LastActivityDate="2020-10-14T05:04:16.300" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14586" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14349" CreationDate="2020-10-14T14:19:26.880" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Belt printers use existing 3d printer hardware, including controllers and steppers. The Z axis is tilted at 45 degrees (usually). So to answer the first part of your question: yes, you can use G-Code to control the printer, just as you would with an upright printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know a good resource that describes everything, but I will try my best here: it's not enough to just skew everything. Basically, you need to rotate all you models at 45 degrees along the x axis, using an imaginary 45 degree plane as the &amp;quot;build plate&amp;quot;. Then, the model needs to be skewed, so that everything that would otherwise be on the build plate is now at y=0. Z needs to be scaled by sqrt(2) to make up for the diagonal belt. The result should be a working G-Code.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But if that's not enough, the issues are in the details. Supports will not work as expected at all. Supports in positive y need to start at 0 degrees, whereas in negative y, you need no support at all. Rafts need to be placed quite counterintuitively on zero y instead of zero x. And giving the build plate/belt a different extrusion temperature is also difficult, because &lt;em&gt;every&lt;/em&gt; build plane touches the belt at some point unless it is a bridge. Oh, yeah, and bridges work perpendicular to the build plate instead of parallel to it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, yeah, it's not easy at all to generate good G-Code for a belt printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="24926" LastActivityDate="2020-10-14T14:19:26.880" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14587" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-10-14T14:30:35.850" Score="1" ViewCount="73" Body="&lt;p&gt;A single object slices OK in Slic3r.  However, when I copy the objects and paste onto a guide point on the y axis to put five objects in the drawing, the slicing leaves out parts.  The worst object is below the y-axis by 0.01 mm, but SketchUp is not allowing me to move the object to the y-axis alignment.  I've tried decreasing the snapping length to 0.000001 mm, and even unchecking &lt;em&gt;Enable length snapping&lt;/em&gt;. I'm looking for the best way to align the bottoms of all objects to the x-y origin plane.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15075" LastActivityDate="2020-10-16T15:44:24.710" Title="What is the best way in SketchUp to align the bottoms of all objects to the x-y origin plane?" Tags="|sketchup|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14588" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13905" CreationDate="2020-10-14T17:22:01.473" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a few issues that could cause this. Roughness in your z-axis lead screw as pointed out by @TheLamestUsername is a leading contender I would say. I'd also extended that answer to include checking the belts for your X and Y axes as well as making sure that the rods the gantry slide on are smooth since the fault appears to be in about the same X-Y location as well in the one image.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, there are a few alternatives as well. Check/confirm that the material that you're using doesn't have a lot of absorbed moisture in it. This can cause little bits of steam to 'pop' when they're extruded causing some bubbles&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because of how the material is folding at the location in the &amp;quot;updated&amp;quot; image this looks to be an issue with the starting and stopping. All of the layer's problems appear to be happening when the gantry moves up to the next layer. Essentially more material is coming out of the nozzle there (I think) than is what should be. Confirming material diameter with some calipers can help if there's just an offset (not too unlikely I don't think).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the diameters are dead on I'd suggest reducing the nozzle temperature by a few degrees. The sensors used to measure the temperature aren't usually all that accurate, though their precision is often pretty good. While you may have it set at 200C that might not be the actual temperature. Calibration of the thermal sensors can drift over time, so while it might have been good on the last roll it may have drifted slightly. Or the material might be of slightly different composition. Try lowering the nozzle temp by 2-5 degrees and see if that has any effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may also have a retraction setting that can be modified. Pulling the material back ever so slightly when it finishes the one layer as it moves to the next could alos reduce some of the extra material that's coming out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5518" LastActivityDate="2020-10-14T17:22:01.473" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14590" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3302" CreationDate="2020-10-15T00:56:19.917" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're running Windows, MS 3D Builder has a measuring tool and may already be installed on your machine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12562" LastActivityDate="2020-10-15T00:56:19.917" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14592" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3302" CreationDate="2020-10-15T08:12:10.583" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.meshmixer.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Meshmixer&lt;/a&gt; has various measuring tools for STLs as well&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2338" LastActivityDate="2020-10-15T08:12:10.583" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14596" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14971" CreationDate="2020-10-15T13:41:46.213" Score="0" ViewCount="129" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've a problem with my BQ i3 Hephestos.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've noticed that in the last few prints that I've experienced some temperature drops every now and then. Yesterday, after 3 of a 4 hours long print, the hotend completely cooled down (I have Octoprint and from the temperature graph it was visible the exponential decrease to 25 °C). Apart from realizing that, evidently, I have not any cold extrusion prevention set up on my Marlin firmware (I'll surely fix that asap), yesterday I've shut everything down with the idea to try again today.&#xA;This morning, though, I could not start my print because the heater didn't even warm up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After disassembling the hotend I've tried the following things:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I've tested the thermocouple putting it near the heated bed and it measures the correct value&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;with a tester I've measured the voltage that goes into the resistance (&lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$\approx 12\ V$&lt;/span&gt;)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I've measured the resistance with the tester (&lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$\approx 3\ \Omega$&lt;/span&gt;)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've also noticed that while &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$12\ V$&lt;/span&gt; is the voltage that the printer sends to the resistance, measured when the resistance is not attached to it, if I repeat the measurement with the resistance attached to the printer I get a few &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$mV$&lt;/span&gt;. I really don't know whether it is the expected behavior or not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Further inspection...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Trying to inspect the cables better I've noticed a black spot on the connector of my Ramps 1.4 board (as you can see in the attached image).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/W5aM6.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/W5aM6.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At this point I think I may have damaged something with too much current/too much heat. Too much current it seems strange to me because I have never changed anything in that sense, It is exactly the same as when I have bought the printer. It may be something related to the heat as the problem firstly occurred only on long prints (some hours).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know if this clarify something to you, but to me it says almost nothing...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;UPDATE&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've tried to attach the heater again to its original place and now it seems to work (in the sense that it gets hot). I've initially set the temperature to 60 °C, and it had no problem reaching and keeping it. Then I've tried to raise it to 180 °C but I had to shut down the heater after a few seconds because the cables became very hot and &lt;em&gt;tender&lt;/em&gt; and it smelled of burnt&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user23804" LastEditorDisplayName="user23804" LastEditDate="2020-10-16T17:29:29.483" LastActivityDate="2020-12-08T06:31:47.570" Title="Hotend not heating" Tags="|extruder|electronics|bq-hephestos|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="13" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14597" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14587" CreationDate="2020-10-15T16:31:12.400" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like a better answer involving automatic alignment, but this was my solution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Make the object a single component.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Make sure the guide points are accurately located.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cut and copy the first component to the origin.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Copy the component to the guide points.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What also worked better was to break the grouping of components into building blocks that could be put together to make the whole.  Once the building block sliced correctly, it could be made into a component.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: the more complex the first layer, the more this accuracy seems to be an issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15075" LastEditorUserId="15075" LastEditDate="2020-10-16T15:44:24.710" LastActivityDate="2020-10-16T15:44:24.710" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14598" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-10-15T23:50:04.690" Score="1" ViewCount="300" Body="&lt;p&gt;My printer randomly freezes partway into the print whenever I use the combination of Marlin 2.0, TMC2208 stealthchop, a 3:1 geared extruder and an E3D 0.9° stepper in a Bowden configuration on the E axis.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this a reasonable combination that other people have got working or is it too high of a step count (830 steps/mm) for this particular driver? If I change one of these factors it prints normally but not when they are all used together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="24957" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-10-16T05:59:49.047" LastActivityDate="2020-10-16T05:59:49.047" Title="TMC2208,BMG and 0.9 degree stepper motor, is this a bad combination?" Tags="|marlin|tmc2208|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14599" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14605" CreationDate="2020-10-16T09:08:05.743" Score="3" ViewCount="1304" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to print a small box with 1 mm thick walls.&#xA;The box has rounded corners.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cura slices the rounded corners with straight internal lines instead of rounded lines:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5Kw87.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5Kw87.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Rounded Corners with infill&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason for these straight lines is that Cura is using infill to fill the walls, because it determines that there's not enough space in a 1 mm wall for three 0.4 mm passes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dDQAc.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dDQAc.png&quot; alt=&quot;Rounded Corners without infill&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This causes the walls to have small imperfections in the final print.&#xA;I was able to solve this by increasing the model wall thickness to 1.2 mm (to allow for 3 0.4 mm lines), but even then it wasn't doing it as a single continuous line, but instead breaking it into short lines at the corner:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zqSAN.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zqSAN.png&quot; alt=&quot;Rounded corners for 1.2 mm thick walls&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a way to avoid this issue without increasing the wall thickness, and have 3 continuous lines?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="24962" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-10-16T11:43:27.900" LastActivityDate="2020-10-19T06:07:16.083" Title="How to slice rounded corners in thin walls with Cura" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|slicing|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14601" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14602" CreationDate="2020-10-17T06:32:00.370" Score="1" ViewCount="2217" Body="&lt;p&gt;Although it seems this question has been answered before &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6030/connecting-anet-a8-2004-display-to-mks-gen-l&quot;&gt;Connecting (Anet A8) 2004 display to MKS GEN L&lt;/a&gt; this one differs because the v2.0 board has no obvious AUX-2 connector.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the question is, how can I connect the Anet A8 LCD Panel (with buttons) to the MKS Gen L V2.0 board? Or where can I find the schematics?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="24968" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-10-17T11:19:44.167" LastActivityDate="2021-01-10T22:35:54.570" Title="Connecting (Anet A8) 2004 display to MKS GEN L V2.0" Tags="|lcd-screen|mks|display|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14602" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14601" CreationDate="2020-10-17T13:09:14.747" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It probably can be done, but, it requires some splicing of your LCD cables (or using some Dupont male-female cables) and altering of the firmware pins header files.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The MKS GEN L v2.0 lacks the AUX-2 port that is present on the v1.0 controller boards. The reason for this is that they implemented support for more modern stepper drivers like the trinamic drivers that are capable of using UART to set stepper options.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The old v1.0 pin layout is displayed below:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Tw1Mz.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;MKS GEN L v1.0 pin layout&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Tw1Mz.png&quot; alt=&quot;MKS GEN L v1.0 pin layout&quot; title=&quot;MKS GEN L v1.0 pin layout&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The new v2.0 pin layout is dislayed below:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lH6xa.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;MKS GEN L v2.0 pin layout&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lH6xa.png&quot; alt=&quot;MKS GEN L v2.0 pin layout&quot; title=&quot;MKS GEN L v2.0 pin layout&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Anet A8 2004 graphical display (so-called ZONESTAR_LCD) uses (at least one as the buttons are suited with different resistors) analog pin that is used to detect which buttons are pushed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#elif ENABLED(ZONESTAR_LCD)&#xA;  #define ADC_KEYPAD_PIN 12&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pins &lt;code&gt;A5&lt;/code&gt; and &lt;code&gt;A9-12&lt;/code&gt;, &lt;code&gt;D40&lt;/code&gt;, &lt;code&gt;D42&lt;/code&gt; and &lt;code&gt;D44&lt;/code&gt; are used according to the pin layout.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the &lt;code&gt;pins_RAMPS.h&lt;/code&gt; header file the display usage is coded as:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#elif ENABLED(ZONESTAR_LCD)&#xA;&#xA;  #define LCD_PINS_RS                     64&#xA;  #define LCD_PINS_ENABLE                 44&#xA;  #define LCD_PINS_D4                     63&#xA;  #define LCD_PINS_D5                     40&#xA;  #define LCD_PINS_D6                     42&#xA;  #define LCD_PINS_D7                     65&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In order for this to work on the MKS GEN L v2.0, you need to source for free pins that can mimic these pins and alter the header file and create a spliced LCD cable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It might be much easier to buy a new reprap discount display controller for about 10 bucks/euros and connect it to the dedicated EXP1/2 headers. Stay away from the Anet A6 graphical display.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-10-22T06:50:38.537" LastActivityDate="2020-10-22T06:50:38.537" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14603" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-10-17T18:08:15.010" Score="0" ViewCount="186" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just assembled an FLSUN QQ-S pro printer and successfully printed two models from the supplied SD card. Everything works fine. However, I tried slicing my own model using PrusaSlicer and although the print head moves, the extruder motor does nothing. What could be the issue? Do I need to modify the G-code commands?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="24984" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-10-17T20:37:35.317" LastActivityDate="2020-10-17T20:37:35.317" Title="Extruder motor not running when using G-code from PrusaSlicer with non Prusa printer" Tags="|g-code|slicing|prusaslicer|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14604" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-10-17T18:52:42.433" Score="0" ViewCount="345" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought an Anet A8 Plus in January. Everything worked pretty well until one week ago. When I tried to print something, I got a &amp;quot;Heating Failed&amp;quot; error, as the hotend didn't get hot. I've made some search on the web, and I tried to use the bed connector on my motherboard, and the cartridge started to head. So I connected the hotend heater again to the hotend connectors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I conclude the hotend connector may be broken, but this morning, it succeeded to heat my hotend (and then didn't work again). Can someone help me to understand what's wrong with it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;I also noticed that a LED power off when the cartridge's wires are connected (the D8 LED)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="24985" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-10-18T10:28:32.933" LastActivityDate="2020-10-18T10:28:32.933" Title="Got &quot;Heating failed&quot; error while heat catridge is working" Tags="|hotend|anet-a8|heat-management|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14605" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14599" CreationDate="2020-10-18T11:28:50.820" Score="2" Body="&lt;h1&gt;Fixing the model&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My solution to this problem is, to increase the thickness in such corners by 0.05 mm by pushing the inner wall's radius towards its center. This allows some &lt;em&gt;extra&lt;/em&gt; space as a round corner is not actually saved &lt;em&gt;round&lt;/em&gt; but as a pattern of straight wall facets, and those can get squished together just enough to make the slicer believe the wall is too thin for a proper wall. As you see, the new corner rounding starts a little bit before the outer one - in this exaggerated model I use 1 millimeter &lt;em&gt;extra&lt;/em&gt; - violet are the &lt;em&gt;normal&lt;/em&gt; corners 10 mm apart, black is the &lt;em&gt;new&lt;/em&gt; inner corner, the light blue area between them is the &lt;em&gt;extra&lt;/em&gt; bulk that will massively reduce the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9AHxO.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9AHxO.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;origin of the error&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As an example, let's put the number of facets to 1 and 2 when we form them from the rounded corner. The more facets there are, the closer the distance between the walls will get to the full wall thickness, but it will always stay a fraction below.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZdgNM.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZdgNM.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;How does the model fix work?&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Well, we shifted the inner corner away, and with 2 facets we get a fidelity to the intended wall thickness of 96.21 % instead of 92.39 % for the non-modified wall - and with even more facets the fidelity gets better more quickly. However, there is a point where your gaps will start to diverge in the corner, so just using a tiny alteration is advisable - in our model case, 9 facets (a 10°) is the point where the inner wall will start to become more distant to the outer wall. That's why I only need such a tiny bit of extra space if I export the model with the most fidelity in the &lt;code&gt;.stl&lt;/code&gt; generation my CAD has available.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2UJKa.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2UJKa.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;&lt;em&gt;making it work&lt;/em&gt; in the slicer&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another thing I do when I can't alter the model is, knowing that I usually slice width a line width of 0.45 mm. In case such a corner appears, I can then alter my line width in the slicer down to 0.44[5] mm (or more) and get pretty much the same result at the cost of possibly needing to account for errors in other areas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2020-10-18T12:01:42.930" LastActivityDate="2020-10-18T12:01:42.930" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14607" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14667" CreationDate="2020-10-18T18:20:00.700" Score="0" ViewCount="1956" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;[SOLVED]&lt;/strong&gt; on [EDIT 3]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I just finished changing my i3 Mega's PTFE tube and brass nozzle, reassembled it, always taking care not to damage the heating element and thermistor wires.&#xA;Then I check the temperature and it was cooling down, despite the set temperature being higher (210 ºC). I turned it off, let it cool down and turned it back on. I set it again to 210 ºC and it only reaches about 135 ºC-140 ºC, not going over it.&#xA;So I change the heating element and thermistor for fresh new ones (original ones, that came with the printer) and the same behavior takes place: not heating up beyond 140 ºC.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas on why this is happening or how to fix it? I checked the connectors and they all seem to be fine. Cooling fans run normally as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Printer: Anycubic i3 MEGA. All stock parts, except the new nozzle (standard brass nozzle) and the PTFE tube (a blue one with 1.9 mm internal diameter). I'm setting the temperatures through the printer's interface, as I have always done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;[EDIT]&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did check some stuff with the multimeter and what I got is that:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The cables leading to the print head are fine;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The heating element's voltage is correct and the MOSFET seems to be&#xA;working fine both by checking the voltage and from the LED that&#xA;lights up when it is sending current to the HE;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The resistance of the HE is correct as well;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Form that, I am guessing the problem is the current fed to the HE. Later today I will try to heat both the nozzle and the bed to the (safe) max temperatures and see if the bed heating is problematic too. If so, the problem should be related to current.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If anyone has any other ideas, they are appreciated! :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;[EDIT2]&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Heating up the print bed and the hotend at the same time didn't affect the bed at all. It heated up at the same pace as usual. Since the cables are fine, it shouldn't be a problem related to the power supply.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I'm gessing the problem is the motherboard (Trigorilla 1.1). It didn't seem to have any burned components at a glance but I'm gonna check with a multimeter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;[EDIT3]&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Turns out I messed up the heatbreaker, so the heatsink was cooling the hotend way too much... This is one way of learning I need to be careful with the heatbreaker, I guess. I'll leave a solution here for the newbies like me that end up in a similar situation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="24994" LastEditorUserId="24994" LastEditDate="2020-10-26T20:47:14.593" LastActivityDate="2020-10-26T20:51:26.643" Title="Anycubic i3 MEGA not heating past 140 ºC" Tags="|hotend|anycubic-i3-mega|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14608" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14599" CreationDate="2020-10-19T05:45:03.197" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Contrary to the other answer, this is not (exclusively) a model / geometry issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Frame challenge: There's no good / easy solution to this when using Cura, at least that I know of. Better slicers can easily handle this situation though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I replicated all the tests in SuperSlicer, which is a PrusaSlicer branch.&#xA;All tests were done with models with relatively high resolution:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gkzvI.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gkzvI.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As well as a model which I created to replicate a &lt;em&gt;horrible&lt;/em&gt; quality .stl:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/e305x.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/e305x.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I checked the continuity of the added internal line with Simplify3D's g-code preview.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a 0.4 mm extrusion width and a 1 mm wall thickness, PrusaSlicer simply adds a 0.2 mm line in the middle. This line is completely uninterrupted:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tB9Tl.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tB9Tl.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The same happens with the very rough .stl:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pAedT.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pAedT.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The same thing happens when using a 1.2 mm wall thickness:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BPhFY.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BPhFY.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/b5mz9.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/b5mz9.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Conclusion: You should not be adding esoteric &amp;quot;fixes&amp;quot; to your models to prop up terrible slicer performance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13171" LastEditorUserId="13171" LastEditDate="2020-10-19T06:07:16.083" LastActivityDate="2020-10-19T06:07:16.083" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14609" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14607" CreationDate="2020-10-19T08:08:38.160" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently had similar problem with my Prusa i3 MK2.5. It was not able to maintain the set tempereature. I measured the heater catridge (which was new) and its resistance was correct (about 4 ohms). So I changed the hotend MOSFET on the stock board with no result. So I changed the heater catridge for the older one and the issue was gone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since you have changed the heater, it is unlikely that you have multiple bad ones. Thus the only thing that remains is the MOSFET and the power supply. Make sure your power supply is stable under load and can deliver enough current.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More likely it is the MOSFET. It behaves like a resistor in the path for the current. If it is swithced off, it is like a large resistor (units or tens of megaohms) in series therefore no or very little current can flow. If it is switched on (units or tens of milliohms) the resistance is very small allowing the current to flow through the heater. If a MOSFET is bad, when it is switched on it can have higher resistance (units of ohms) and thus limiting the current and creating a voltage divider. Which you can measure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You have to get to the bare wires that lead to the heater. Turn on the heater. Place your voltmeter lead on one wire and the other lead on the otehr wire. The voltemeter should show voltage close to your power supply voltage. If it is showing less, the MOSFET is bad and needs replacing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For that you will need soldering tools and skills. You probably have an SMD MOSFET soldered directly to the board. I suggest removing it and replacing it with a THT MOSFET that you would place separately from the board with its own heatsink. When on the board, the board acts as a heatsink.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you cannot do that yourself, ask someone to do it for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Before replacing the MOSFET, find whether it is a n-channel or p-channel MOSFET. It will most likely be an n-channel MOSFET but make sure it is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you replace it with THT MOSFET I would suggest these two: IRFZ44N (n-channel) or IRF4905 (p-channel). They are general purpose MOSFETs and should work well enough for drop-in replacement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it is not the MOSFET, power supply or the heater, then I have no idea.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should be able to trace one of these loops:&#xA;power supply -&amp;gt; (fuse -&amp;gt;) heater -&amp;gt; n-channel MOSFET -&amp;gt; power supply&#xA;power supply -&amp;gt; (fuse -&amp;gt;) p-channel MOSFET -&amp;gt; heater -&amp;gt; power supply&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most likely will be the first loop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;NOTE: Checking the heater resistance might help but does not have to. At room temperature the resistance might be within limits (as with mine example) and when heated up the resistance increases with temperature and thus limiting the current. You would have to measure the resistance when heated up and disconnected from all circuits. (Heat up -&amp;gt; disconnect heater -&amp;gt; measure -&amp;gt; cooldown).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope that helps and good luck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16997" LastActivityDate="2020-10-19T08:08:38.160" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14614" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14615" CreationDate="2020-10-19T18:01:44.177" Score="3" ViewCount="37" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to place the TMC drivers (the stepsticks modules, in fact) on the side of my controller board for easier cooling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the maximum length of the data wires? Specifically, Step and UART, the other ones should not pose any problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my case I would extend them by about 10 cm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2338" LastEditorUserId="2338" LastEditDate="2020-10-19T19:05:24.880" LastActivityDate="2020-10-19T21:10:25.890" Title="What is the maximum length of the TMC drivers signal wires?" Tags="|wiring|tmc2208|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14615" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14614" CreationDate="2020-10-19T18:59:49.647" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;10 cm would be fine. That's the short answer, the real answer is that it depends on the UART speed and the exact conditions that you will be extending them. If you expect noise feedback from the motor coils inducing voltages into the UART lines, then perhaps they should be shorter. Keep the high current wires and the signal (UART) in separate places if possible. Also if you can use a shielded cable (e.g. and old shielded USB cable) then you could get away with a meter thereabout.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12857" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-10-19T21:10:25.890" LastActivityDate="2020-10-19T21:10:25.890" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14616" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14617" CreationDate="2020-10-19T20:12:14.943" Score="10" ViewCount="5573" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 3D print where there are 5 holes with a diameter of 4 mm in a cup, and I would like liquid to flow through all 5 holes at once while slowly draining the cup (by slowly I mean: just take a few seconds and not drain instantly). Therefore the holes can not be very large.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I fill water in the cup it drains fine until there is a small amount of water left, and then it just stops with a small layer of water flowing over the holes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm guessing it is due to surface tension and not enough pressure from water above to push the water through...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a hole design that fixes this problem? I don't know what to Google or if this is the right place to ask the question. It just takes too long to guess my way through and print every attempt at the right size or shape of hole (which I have done so far and still got nothing).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25005" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-10-19T21:13:06.080" LastActivityDate="2020-10-20T14:25:39.353" Title="Water does not flow through 4 mm hole when there is a small amount, how to let water flow through small hole even when there is low pressure?" Tags="|3d-design|post-processing|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14617" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14616" CreationDate="2020-10-19T20:46:56.073" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;What you encounter there is a combination of Adhesion, Cohesion, and Capillary Force.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cohesion is what holds the water together. Adhesion is the force to retain water against a wall or hanging from a pen's end, it is proportional to the surface wetted. Capillary Force is the resulting effect where water moves up through a thin tube, it is anti-proportional to the diameter and in the opposite direction of the weight (force). Their relation can be shown in this picture, where a droplet hangs on the end of a glass rod, which has a capillary in it:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Q9iYq.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Q9iYq.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How to reduce the water sticking in the cup then?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Make the straight part of the bore as short as possible. This can be done by having a thin cup. The shorter the hole, the less surface there is the water can adhere to vertically, and you might overcome capillary force.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Smooth the hole. Maybe print it 3.5 mm and drill it up to your 4 mm diameter. This reduces adhesion.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Smooth the inside surface. Reducing the adhesion to the inside by having less steps.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Chamfer the inside of the holes. This alters the whole geometry and flow setup in the very low water level case, especially when the surface separates into several areas, above each hole. Then the larger volume belonging to each hole on the inner side means there is a little more pressure and you can get out some more water - and it also shortens the distance the hole has to bridge.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;make sure there is some slope everywhere inside so that the water will collect in one of the holes.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An example for a (non measured) design which relies heavily on chamfering to guide the water to the already chamfered holes and then keeps the straight section as short as possible could look like this: the central hole has a very wide chamfer, the whole plate directs water to the center and each of the other holes has a chamfer to guide out water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wMaIe.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wMaIe.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, there is a lower limit to where just tweaking the design will workd, which is based on cohesion. Cohesion is what results in surface tension and viscosity. You can only shift those limiting factors by altering the properties of the liquid, for example by adding an agent that lowers the surface tension and viscosity (soap).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2020-10-20T13:44:59.410" LastActivityDate="2020-10-20T13:44:59.410" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14618" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2020-10-19T21:15:28.790" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2020-10-19T21:15:28.790" LastActivityDate="2020-10-19T21:15:28.790" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14619" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2020-10-19T21:15:28.790" Score="0" Body="For questions about how to make prints resistant in wet areas or how to seal them for use under water." OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2020-10-19T21:15:28.790" LastActivityDate="2020-10-19T21:15:28.790" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14620" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14621" CreationDate="2020-10-20T12:15:07.433" Score="1" ViewCount="1136" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm using Cura for my 3D printing (an ultimaker S5 printer) and in order to understand 3D printing I'm trying to learn G-code.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've noticed that even when the model is full of circles, the G-code is full with the &lt;code&gt;G1&lt;/code&gt; command. I haven't seen the &lt;code&gt;G2&lt;/code&gt; or &lt;code&gt;G3&lt;/code&gt; command at all!&#xA;How could this be?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="24916" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-10-20T12:37:46.163" LastActivityDate="2020-10-20T13:22:49.130" Title="G2 / G3 command in Cura" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|diy-3d-printer|g-code|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14621" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14620" CreationDate="2020-10-20T12:46:55.650" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;code&gt;.stl&lt;/code&gt; files most commonly used for printing do not have any circles in them at all!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;code&gt;.stl&lt;/code&gt; files describe the surface of the things they represent with lots and lots of triangles:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Gws40.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;STL file of corner object showing the polygons&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Gws40.png&quot; alt=&quot;STL file of corner object showing the polygons&quot; title=&quot;STL file of corner object showing the polygons&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That also means that your slicer doesn't really know which parts of the model are supposed to be round (where &lt;code&gt;G2&lt;/code&gt; and &lt;code&gt;G3&lt;/code&gt; might be applicable).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And, another consideration, though historical: Most 3D printers were (and are) based on relatively weak 8-bit microcontrollers. It's much easier for those microcontrollers to calculate the movements needed for the print if it's just straight lines, rather than elaborate curves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One issue that can arise with this is when your model is of high quality, and your slicers uses all of that quality - a simple circle can then become hundreds or thousands of tiny segments, which all need to be transmitted, parsed and executed - which may lead to stuttering.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13171" LastEditorUserId="13171" LastEditDate="2020-10-20T13:22:49.130" LastActivityDate="2020-10-20T13:22:49.130" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14622" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-10-20T14:24:56.203" Score="1" ViewCount="1226" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have just fitted a BLTouch to a Sovol SV01, and flashed Marlin 2.0.5.3 firmware. Bed leveling etc and building the bed mesh all went OK. Slicer is Cura 4.7.1.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, it won't print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Gcode created by Cura after macro expansion etc is as follow&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;;FLAVOR:Marlin&#xA;;TIME:246&#xA;;Filament used: 0.14214m&#xA;&#xA;;MINY:115.791&#xA;;MINZ:0.3&#xA;;MAXX:159.709&#xA;;MAXY:144.209&#xA;;MAXZ:1.5&#xA;;Generated with Cura_SteamEngine 4.7.1&#xA;M82 ;absolute extrusion mode&#xA;M501;Load settings from EEPROM (necessary for Z offset)&#xA;&#xA;; Following settings from Sovol&#xA;M201 X500.00 Y500.00 Z100.00 E5000.00 ;Setup machine max acceleration&#xA;M203 X500.00 Y500.00 Z10.00 E50.00 ;Setup machine max feedrate&#xA;M204 P500.00 R1000.00 T500.00 ;Setup Print/Retract/Travel acceleration&#xA;M205 X8.00 Y8.00 Z0.40 E5.00 ;Setup Jerk&#xA;M220 S100 ;Reset Feedrate&#xA;M221 S100 ;Reset Flowrate&#xA;&#xA;M190 S60 ;Heat bed - wait&#xA;M104 S200 ;Heat extruder - no wait&#xA;&#xA;G28 ;Home&#xA;M420 S ; Turn leveling back on after G28 (why is this needed?)&#xA;G29 L0 ;Load mesh&#xA;G29 J ;Three point level&#xA;&#xA;M109 S200 ;Heat extruder - wait&#xA;&#xA;G92 E0 ;Reset Extruder&#xA;G1 Z2.0 F3000 ;Move Z Axis up&#xA;G1 X10.1 Y20 Z0.28 F5000.0 ;Move to start position&#xA;G1 X10.1 Y200.0 Z0.28 F1500.0 E15 ;Draw the first line&#xA;G1 X10.4 Y200.0 Z0.28 F5000.0 ;Move to side a little&#xA;G1 X10.4 Y20 Z0.28 F1500.0 E30 ;Draw the second line&#xA;G92 E0 ;Reset Extruder&#xA;G1 Z2.0 F3000 ;Move Z Axis up&#xA;&#xA;G92 E0&#xA;G92 E0&#xA;G1 F3000 E-3&#xA;;LAYER_COUNT:7&#xA;;LAYER:0&#xA;.... and so on&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It heats up the bed OK, and it starts heating the nozzle. It then does the three point level OK, then waits for the nozzle to get up to temperature (200) - the M109 S200.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But that is as far as it gets. The nozzle comes up to 200 and generally moves between about 197 and 203 degrees. The bed sits at around 60/61. I can hear a fan keep speeding up and slowing down, and the info display just says 'E heating ...'. That's it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It cannot seem to get past waiting for the nozzle to heat - but it has, and M109 S200 should wait for it to reach temp, and continue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can anyone advise what has gone wrong here?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23876" LastActivityDate="2020-10-20T18:33:28.757" Title="Problem with Marlin 2.0.5.3 / BLTouch upgrade with Sovol SV01" Tags="|marlin|ultimaker-cura|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14623" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14616" CreationDate="2020-10-20T14:25:39.353" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If it is possible to add a downward pointing thin needle (hair, AWG-40 wire etc.) to the edge of (each) hole, do it. The droplets will smoothly glide along it to its end, where the needle circumference becomes so tiny that surface tension cannot hold the droplet anymore. Surface tension won't have a chance!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With a very thin needle and funnel-like hydrophobic surface of the vessel, you may get rid of virtually any (microliter) amount of water. It can be hard to make it by 3D-printing, though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25012" LastActivityDate="2020-10-20T14:25:39.353" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14624" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14622" CreationDate="2020-10-20T15:52:48.510" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think I might have found it - PID problem (heater has a PID loop). Standard values are 32/3/85 (P/I/D). Just watching the temperature, I noticed there was a lot of overshoot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It appears that to continue after a temp wait, it must stay within some limit for a period - don't know either number. But, presumably, it wasn't.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is an autotune PID gcode - &lt;code&gt;M303 E0 S200 C8&lt;/code&gt; says 'autotune extruder 0, at 200 °V, looping 8 times. Ran that and I could see it getting better on each iteration. Unfortunately, didn't manage to find a way of seeing what it came up with, and could not get the result written back to E2P either (&lt;code&gt;M500&lt;/code&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, resorted to tried and trusted techniques - fiddled with it. In the end reduced P to 20.0 and I to 2.0 - and it started printing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23876" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-10-20T18:33:28.757" LastActivityDate="2020-10-20T18:33:28.757" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14625" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-10-20T19:26:31.933" Score="1" ViewCount="766" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to the Formlabs site, the XY resolution (with the appropriate resin) is 25 microns.  However the laser spot diameter is listed as 85 microns.  Assuming the 85 microns is FWHM (full width half max), unless the sensitivity of the resin is quite non-linear, I don't see how it is possible to achieve a 25 micron resolution.  Does anyone have any hard data on the measured resolution of the Form 3 printer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7166" LastActivityDate="2020-10-20T19:26:31.933" Title="XY Resolution of Form 3 Printer versus Laser Spot Size" Tags="|sla|resolution|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14626" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14627" CreationDate="2020-10-20T21:52:53.203" Score="1" ViewCount="51" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to make a printer that will have a second extruder as backup for when the primary one clogs or runs out of filament. It is an ongoing project I'm doing to make a 3D printer as reliable as possible. How could you implement this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21785" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-10-21T12:27:23.243" LastActivityDate="2020-10-21T12:27:23.243" Title="Printer with two extruders but one as a backup" Tags="|diy-3d-printer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14627" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14626" CreationDate="2020-10-20T22:32:42.500" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could use a &amp;quot;filament runout sensor&amp;quot; and combine it with a &amp;quot;filament running sensor&amp;quot;. If either fails the controller needs to be notified by a signal. If you configure the Configuration.h filament runout setup such that it doesn't call &lt;code&gt;M600&lt;/code&gt; but instead a series of codes to park tool 0, activate tool 1, home tool 1, prime tool 1, and commence printing, you are near a solution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2020-10-20T22:32:42.500" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14628" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-10-21T00:31:23.770" Score="3" ViewCount="3787" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is filament residue on my glass bed that is so thin that it wont come off. I have had residue buildup for over a year now and none of it has come off. This residue appears with both the PETG and the PLA filament I have. Is there anyway to remove this residue?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DmG4e.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DmG4e.png&quot; alt=&quot;Filament residue on bed&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23125" LastActivityDate="2022-12-18T20:20:06.160" Title="Filament residue sticks to bed and wont come off" Tags="|filament|glass-bed|bed|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14629" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-10-21T01:02:53.453" Score="2" ViewCount="94" Body="&lt;p&gt;Long story short, Y and Z axis on my printer are swapped because it is a belt printer. Currently, the BLTouch sensor only works on Z axis, so I need to figure out how to do it for the Y axis otherwise I would need to design a limit switch sensor for the Y axis which in a conventional printer, would be height and would not be accurate. A software solution would be nice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[Edited] Due to nature of slicer, its not possible to swap Y and Z motors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any help would be nice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25019" LastEditorUserId="25019" LastEditDate="2020-10-24T22:57:23.903" LastActivityDate="2020-10-24T22:57:23.903" Title="Using BLTouch on Y Axis instead of Z" Tags="|g-code|bltouch|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14630" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14628" CreationDate="2020-10-21T03:00:20.143" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would try a single edge razor blade at a low angle used as a scraper.  If you can't feel the blade catching in the residue,  it probably isn't an issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you must get rid of it you don't have good choices of solvents.  Maybe you can burn it off by placing the class in an oven through a clean cycle.  With luck the hearing and cooling won't break the glass.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can't scrape it off with a sharp razor blade,  I would just let it be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2082" LastActivityDate="2020-10-21T03:00:20.143" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14631" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14628" CreationDate="2020-10-21T04:39:54.293" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Maybe you could put your bed at the max temperature and print a large square of 1 mm onto it using a higher than normal temperature for that filament, maybe this bonds the residue to the new print. Let it cool down and pry the print off or remove while hot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2020-10-21T04:39:54.293" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14632" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14628" CreationDate="2020-10-21T08:36:28.573" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Heat the bed to around 90 °C and then scrape everything off with a metallic scraper, like the ones used to fill gaps in walls. No need of a super sharp one, since the plastic will be very soft a that temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have a razor blade and a &lt;strong&gt;proper handle to avoid cutting yourself&lt;/strong&gt;, you won't need to heat the bed to more than 40 °C, since you dont want the plastic to be too soft.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2338" LastActivityDate="2020-10-21T08:36:28.573" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14633" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-10-21T11:47:45.510" Score="1" ViewCount="287" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm getting issues with any print in the specific corner throughout different and unrelated prints. The specific corner comes out compressed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have tried to take pictures to illustrate the issue:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Tqye4.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Tqye4.png&quot; alt=&quot;back view&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4driM.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4driM.png&quot; alt=&quot;side view&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5pRtg.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5pRtg.png&quot; alt=&quot;angeled view&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas on what to look at?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Printer: Creality CR-10&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25021" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-10-21T12:13:49.100" LastActivityDate="2020-10-22T11:03:40.943" Title="Compressed corner in my prints" Tags="|print-quality|troubleshooting|calibration|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14634" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14628" CreationDate="2020-10-21T11:53:13.150" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's probably not practical, but what would be ideal is to put the glass from the bed in an oxygen plasma asher used in the semiconductor industry.  It would probably be difficult to get a used one large enough, since your bed size probably matches state of the art wafer sizes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What would be even more practical is for someone to develop an oxygen plasma cleaning torch that wouldn't overheat the glass (&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.semanticscholar.org/paper/FINAL-REPORT-U-.-S-.-Department-of-Energy-Plasma-of-Hicks/fc32a874806de71f1d10f2d979d3a74e2bb7c0d0?p2df&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.semanticscholar.org/paper/FINAL-REPORT-U-.-S-.-Department-of-Energy-Plasma-of-Hicks/fc32a874806de71f1d10f2d979d3a74e2bb7c0d0?p2df&lt;/a&gt;).  Plasma cutting torches already exist.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15075" LastActivityDate="2020-10-21T11:53:13.150" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14635" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14633" CreationDate="2020-10-21T12:19:00.313" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a very well known issue that is caused by insufficient adhesion. The corners curl up during printing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should increase the adhesion by:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;cleaning the bed (I use water and soap, others use isopropyl alcohol)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;better leveling,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;correct nozzle to build plate distance (dragging paper method),&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;using a brim or so-called mouse ears in your design,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;increased the heated bed temperature, or&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;use of an adhesive like hair spray or glue stick (&lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/11183/5740&quot;&gt;not any type will work&lt;/a&gt;) or specific sprays that are created for this purpose (e.g. 3DLAC, Dimafix, etc.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Some people used tape on the build plate for adhesion, but I'm &lt;strong&gt;not a fan of tape&lt;/strong&gt;. &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/9981/why-does-the-painters-tape-have-to-be-blue&quot;&gt;Not all tapes work&lt;/a&gt;. Tape needs to be applied correctly, prepared (sanded), etc. This is much more cumbersome than applying a little spray over the build plate. It can be successfully used on PEI, Buildtak (clones), glass and on the &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/3710/should-you-use-hairspray-on-a-metal-bed-3d-printer/6861#6861&quot;&gt;bare aluminium bed&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-10-22T11:03:40.943" LastActivityDate="2020-10-22T11:03:40.943" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14638" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14643" CreationDate="2020-10-21T19:45:02.617" Score="2" ViewCount="179" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been printing the same model once with Verbatim PLA and once with an ABS material from Switzerland. For both I was using two brand new 1 kg spools of filament. I was printing both at the same speed, same additions, same infill percentage, solid layers, solid wall count, etc. Literally everything the same except temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Simplify3D indicated 300 g for each print, however I already realized that all of Simplify3Ds estimates for time and material are - unlike Cura - very poor. However I was still kinda surprised when I checked the two spools after printing. Originally they had the same diameter of material and same depth. After the print the ABS spool looked almost the same as before the print, in terms of diameter it shrank less than 5 mm, however the PLA roll was definitely at least 1/3 empty. The difference was also confirmed by a scale. ABS only consumed like 220 g, while PLA was using a bit over 300 g. ABS surely did not look like more than 20 %, but maybe its inner diameter is larger than the PLA spool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since I can order ABS considerably cheaper than PLA I was wondering if this is a common phenomenon. Googling for that leads to a million of pages outlining the differences between ABS and PLA where 999'999 of times it says that ABS is more prone to warping than PLA and the other one is about dimensional accuracy, but I could not find anything about material usage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20301" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-10-22T13:37:11.183" LastActivityDate="2020-10-22T13:45:10.170" Title="Are there differences in filament consumption between ABS and PLA" Tags="|pla|print-material|abs|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14639" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14644" CreationDate="2020-10-21T21:06:31.103" Score="0" ViewCount="25143" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am using an Ender 3 and I have just upgraded to the Hero Me Gen 5 fan duct adapter. This has shifted the nozzle position. I also flashed some new Marlin 2 firmware and in the Hero Me manual it says to uncomment and change &lt;code&gt;#define MANUAL_Y_HOME_POS -9&lt;/code&gt; to suit this change in nozzle position.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This has, however, not given me the right results. It did not center my prints but actually let the Y-axis grind upon going to &lt;code&gt;Y235&lt;/code&gt;. Additionally, I noticed, that my printer must have been off-center from the beginning, because the X position of the nozzle has not changed due to the installation, but the printer homes to a point 5 mm inside the bed perimeters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;So, if my printers endstops dictate an original home position of 3 mm &lt;em&gt;inside&lt;/em&gt; the bed area for X and 15 mm outside the bed area for Y, how do I set this up correctly in Marlin 2?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think the relevant parts are&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;// The size of the print bed&#xA;#define X_BED_SIZE 235&#xA;#define Y_BED_SIZE 235&#xA;&#xA;// Travel limits (mm) after homing, corresponding to endstop positions.&#xA;#define X_MIN_POS 5&#xA;#define Y_MIN_POS -15&#xA;#define Z_MIN_POS 0&#xA;#define X_MAX_POS 250&#xA;#define Y_MAX_POS 240&#xA;#define Z_MAX_POS 230&#xA;...&#xA;// Manually set the home position. Leave these undefined for automatic settings.&#xA;// For DELTA this is the top-center of the Cartesian print volume.&#xA;//#define MANUAL_X_HOME_POS 0&#xA;//#define MANUAL_Y_HOME_POS -9&#xA;//#define MANUAL_Z_HOME_POS 0&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is my idea, I would let the manual home pos be commented out as I do not know what it does. However, I also want the software endstops to correcly work as to not let the printer destroy it &lt;em&gt;aaaaand&lt;/em&gt; my BLTouch to probe the bed and not the air or my bed clips using UBL when doing 3-point probing. Would this be correct? Where do I have to look to let the printer consider my bed clips(only 10 mm on both ends of the y-axis side of the bed)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25031" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-10-22T13:51:37.193" LastActivityDate="2020-10-22T13:51:37.193" Title="How to set Home Offsets and Manual Home definitions in Marlin correctly?" Tags="|marlin|firmware|homing|endstop|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2020-10-22T13:53:57.310" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14642" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-10-22T08:26:32.430" Score="0" ViewCount="350" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm having some severe under extrusion and I cannot figure out what's going on I replaced the extruder with the all metal one I've also replaced all the Bowen fittings and the tube with Capricorn tubing replaced the nozzle made sure everything was butted up tight can't figure out what's going on at all can someone please help I've only had the printer for 4 months and I've never had a problem like this before&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25039" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-11-04T17:23:36.187" LastActivityDate="2020-11-04T17:23:36.187" Title="Extreme under extrusion Ender 3 Pro" Tags="|creality-ender-3|underextrusion|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14643" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14638" CreationDate="2020-10-22T08:52:51.647" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I’ve never actually printed anything other than PLA, but...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Searching the web for filament density, I found &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.simplify3d.com/support/materials-guide/properties-table/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this article &lt;/a&gt;, among others, that indicate that PLA is nearly 20 % denser than ABS, on average (1.24 vs 1.04 g/cm&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt;). This indicates that a 1 kg reel of ABS will have 20 % more volume (therefore length) than a 1 kg reel of PLA.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This does not quite explain the difference you see as 300 g vs 220 g is 36 % but maybe your measurement is off or the particular PLA mix you’re using is slightly denser.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20164" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-10-22T13:45:10.170" LastActivityDate="2020-10-22T13:45:10.170" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14644" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14639" CreationDate="2020-10-22T09:59:39.203" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Normally you wouldn't use the &lt;code&gt;MANUAL_xyz_HOME_POS&lt;/code&gt; at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Home your machine.&#xA;Use a caliper or ruler to measure the distance between the nozzle and the edges of the print bed in both the X and Y direction.&#xA;If the nozzle was &lt;em&gt;off&lt;/em&gt; the bed in both directions, input these measurements as &lt;em&gt;negative&lt;/em&gt; &lt;code&gt;X_MIN_POS&lt;/code&gt; and &lt;code&gt;Y_MIN_POS&lt;/code&gt; values.&#xA;If it was &lt;em&gt;over&lt;/em&gt; the bed in either of those directions, you'll need to input them as &lt;em&gt;positive&lt;/em&gt; positions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That should result in your nozzle to be exactly on the edge of the bed after a&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;G28 X Y&#xA;G1 X0 Y0&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;movement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13171" LastActivityDate="2020-10-22T09:59:39.203" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14645" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-10-22T14:29:24.790" Score="2" ViewCount="137" Body="&lt;p&gt;After SLS printing any internal spaces retain the un-fused but packed powder that was in the bed. I am hoping to add channels as wire raceways internal to the part.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any experiences with this - is it worth the trouble?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More specifically, any recommendations for &amp;quot;flexible-auger&amp;quot; type tools to clean out around the bends?  The residual powder is of a consistency where I expect an appropriately shaped wire could dislodge it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Concept, this is polypropylene. Scale: raceways are currently 1.5mm - 2mm in diameter.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9FJqq.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9FJqq.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25044" LastEditorUserId="25044" LastEditDate="2020-10-25T19:54:32.977" LastActivityDate="2023-03-22T09:43:15.303" Title="How can I clean out internal channels in an SLS polypropylene print?" Tags="|sls|cleaning|wire-type|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14646" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-10-22T14:57:19.637" Score="0" ViewCount="396" Body="&lt;p&gt;My Ender 2 LCD is suddenly not lighting up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it possible to replace it with an Ender 3 LCD?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12878" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2021-04-26T10:27:32.457" LastActivityDate="2021-04-26T10:27:32.457" Title="Ender 2 LCD replacement" Tags="|creality-ender-3|lcd-screen|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14649" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14650" CreationDate="2020-10-23T21:40:56.030" Score="1" ViewCount="1515" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have &lt;a href=&quot;https://m.de.aliexpress.com/item/32719957788.html?trace=wwwdetail2mobilesitedetail&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; optocoupler.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/koQuA.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/koQuA.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;optocoupler:&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.aliexpress.com/i/32809655707.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; sensor.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4p8IT.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4p8IT.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;sensor:&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to wire them together and use them for auto bed leveling. Note, stock Ender 3 board (Creality v1) has 2 pins for its endstop, not 3, so this:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3jbKw.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3jbKw.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;dosent work:&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;won't work&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I found this diagram:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EP9Vr.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EP9Vr.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;possibly might work&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My optocoupler is rated for 12 V so I definitely wont attach 24 V to it. However, everything else seems good. So I could only replace the 24 V to 12 V and it would work?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25062" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-10-24T06:40:33.830" LastActivityDate="2020-11-17T09:33:17.563" Title="How to wire an LJ18A3-8-Z/BX sensor with an optocoupler to a stock Ender 3?" Tags="|creality-ender-3|bed-leveling|electronics|wiring|inductive-sensor|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14650" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14649" CreationDate="2020-10-24T06:32:08.170" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Both diagrams are exactly the same, the difference is the +5 V that is not connected on the bottom diagram (displayed in white, labelled &amp;quot;not used&amp;quot;), but since your endstops do not have a +5 V pin in the socket (only ground, GND, and signal, SIG or S) you don't need to attach it. You should source the +5 V from elsewhere from your board. As the left and right side of the module are separated circuits, you need to power the board with +5 V.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Read &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/10812/&quot;&gt;this answer&lt;/a&gt; for applying 24 V.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-11-17T09:33:17.563" LastActivityDate="2020-11-17T09:33:17.563" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14652" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-10-24T18:00:02.597" Score="1" ViewCount="1345" Body="&lt;p&gt;Optocoupler used in conjuction with an inductive sensor on a stock Ender 3, wired like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Wdlks.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Wdlks.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;diagram&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Except I also wired a switch to the Z endstop signal and ground.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know the switch pin layout so I had to guess.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wa85w.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wa85w.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;switch pins?&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I guess &lt;code&gt;S&lt;/code&gt; stands for signal, but I don't know why the other pin isn't &lt;code&gt;G&lt;/code&gt;, but rather &lt;code&gt;V&lt;/code&gt;. So we have signal and voltage? that doesn't make sense so I guess its the reason for the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I do auto home all axes, it completely ignores signal from the optocoupler. It only stops when hitting the switch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The optocoupler is connected to an inductive sensor. When the sensor detects metal, it sends a signal to the optocoupler, the optocoupler to Z limit pins on the mainboard (or so it should).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Video of whats happening is found &lt;a href=&quot;https://streamable.com/ibx21n&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I connect optocoupler VCC to switch V (keep switch S to optocoupler OUT)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;U (not V) is +5V, so should I connect the optocoupler VCC to it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25062" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-11-17T07:42:33.917" LastActivityDate="2021-01-26T12:28:09.747" Title="Ender 3 ignores signal from optocoupler" Tags="|creality-ender-3|bed-leveling|electronics|wiring|inductive-sensor|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14654" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14646" CreationDate="2020-10-24T21:24:09.540" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not easily.  Some folks have been messing with both 2 and 3 LCDs and based on their posts, the &lt;a href=&quot;https://amp.reddit.com/r/ender2/comments/cwxqra/pinout_for_ender2_lcd/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;pinout is different between the two&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ender 2 display pinout from when one &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/bigtreetech/BIGTREETECH-SKR-mini-E3/issues/77&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;GuzLightyear figured it out&lt;/a&gt; for Marlin (MKS MINI 12864 LCD):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&#xA;          -----&#xA;     5V  | · · |  GND&#xA;   MOSI  | · · |  LCD_RS&#xA; LCD_A0  | · · || BTN_EN2&#xA;  RESET  | · · |  BTN_EN1&#xA;BTN_ENC  | · · |  SCK&#xA;          -----&#xA;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From a user called arnd13, the &lt;a href=&quot;https://forum.duet3d.com/topic/7609/configuring-12864-lcd-on-maestro/7&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Ender 3 equivalent&lt;/a&gt; would be:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&#xA;         -----&#xA;5V      | · · |  GND&#xA;MOSI    | · · |  LCD_A0&#xA;SCK     | · · || BTN_EN2&#xA;CS      | · · |  BTN_EN1&#xA;BTN_ENC | · · |  Buzzer&#xA;         -----&#xA;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maybe you have some luck in debugging your screen (sometimes with these LCD screens, a contrast adjustment resolves the issue).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23523" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-10-26T07:51:15.970" LastActivityDate="2020-10-26T07:51:15.970" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14655" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-10-24T21:56:01.723" Score="0" ViewCount="789" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I made a 3D printer from scratch. It is a RepStrap based on a Prusa i3 running Marlin 2.0.x.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It prints fine and accurate, but, The trouble is that the XY plane is mirrored and I don't know how to solve this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm using Marlin 2.0.x on an SKR 1.4 controller board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any pointers would be greatly appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25070" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-10-25T22:24:51.563" LastActivityDate="2020-10-26T07:19:25.940" Title="How to correct XY mirroring?" Tags="|marlin|skr-v1.4|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14656" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14659" CreationDate="2020-10-25T01:06:43.827" Score="1" ViewCount="112" Body="&lt;p&gt;While shopping for TMC2209 stepper drivers I found advertisements &amp;quot;SD2209&amp;quot;. Is this the same thing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23492" LastActivityDate="2020-10-26T11:59:00.627" Title="Is SD2209 the same as TMC2209 stepper drivers?" Tags="|stepper-driver|tmc2209|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14657" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14655" CreationDate="2020-10-25T02:05:29.323" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;First of all, make sure that you have correctly identified the X and Y axes, and that the stepper motors (and end-stop switches) are connected to the correct ports. The hot end moves on the X-axis, and the bed moves on the Y-axis. If you connect the X and Y motors the wrong way round, you will get reversed text.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the X and Y motors are connected to the correct ports, you may need to invert the motor directions in firmware. There are &lt;code&gt;#define&lt;/code&gt; statements to allow you to do this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3953" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-10-26T07:19:25.940" LastActivityDate="2020-10-26T07:19:25.940" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14659" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14656" CreationDate="2020-10-25T05:51:50.173" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;From what I can tell, the SD2209 is not a clone of or another name for the TMC2209, but is a board with a TMC2209 on it setup to be used as a drop-in replacement for other stepper drivers. See e.g. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.panucatt.com/mobile/product.aspx?ProductCode=sd2209&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this SD2209 a drop-in replacement for Pololu style drivers&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0c8oP.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0c8oP.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-10-26T11:59:00.627" LastActivityDate="2020-10-26T11:59:00.627" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14660" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14661" CreationDate="2020-10-25T20:46:17.717" Score="2" ViewCount="330" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to create a case or a box which has two holes for incoming and exiting water. I want the box to be opened and closed. Therefore it is good to be something like a treasure box.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a way to design the lid of the box to prevent water from leaking around the areas where the box and the lid are meeting without using glue?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HYo0p.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HYo0p.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25029" LastEditorUserId="8353" LastEditDate="2020-10-31T06:53:13.790" LastActivityDate="2020-10-31T06:53:13.790" Title="Is it possible to create a completely sealed box?" Tags="|water-resistance|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14661" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14660" CreationDate="2020-10-25T21:45:31.537" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&amp;quot;Completely&amp;quot; is always relative, but for water at the pressures involved it's probably achievable. Normally you need some sort of &lt;em&gt;gasket&lt;/em&gt; (material that can bend/compress to slight imperfections in the mating surfaces), and a means of holding the two surfaces tight against the gasket, to get such a seal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With 3D printing, it's plausible that the print itself could be sufficiently non-rigid to achieve this, if you have a way of keeping the lid and box pressed tightly against each other - bolts through the lid, clips around the edges, etc. But it's unlikely to work well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would either print I suitable gasket in TPU, or cut one from some suitable material if you don't have the capability to print with TPU. Either way you still need to design your box and lid so that they're pressed tightly against the gasket.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One possible frame challenge would be doing a round box instead, with a circular threaded lid. It's likely that you could achieve a decent seal for your purposes without any gasket just by tightening the threads, and if not, you still have a really good setup for use with an added gasket.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2020-10-25T21:45:31.537" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14662" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18091" CreationDate="2020-10-26T13:07:35.723" Score="1" ViewCount="329" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an SKR PRO control board with a dead (shorted, it's burning hot) main processor. I ordered a new board, it was my mistake.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The voltage regulators work, so I ordered a replacement STM32F407 processor from STM (a free sample actually) and I'll repair the board in my free time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I test all pins of the new board, so that I can ensure the board is working when I'll sell it/when I'll use it for my next project?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think that programmatically turning on and off each pin would be enough, then I would use an oscilloscope or a LED to verify the result. The pins which have special functions (heater, fan, MOSFET in general) would be tested accordingly, but I still need the pulsating input.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2338" LastActivityDate="2023-06-27T21:43:00.480" Title="How to test all pins of a STM32 board?" Tags="|part-testing|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14665" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-10-26T19:27:30.010" Score="0" ViewCount="200" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can someone show me how to add Lines to Marlin 1.1.8 ?&#xA;I want to change the M400 command.&#xA;In a kind like that:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;M400 () { move Z + 5 if not Z MAX; Home X; printbed on MAX LENGHT}.&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This coud be ported to pause and abort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25083" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-10-30T08:29:37.203" LastActivityDate="2020-10-30T08:29:37.203" Title="Marlin inline void gcode_M400()" Tags="|marlin|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14666" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-10-26T20:27:10.047" Score="1" ViewCount="948" Body="&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately and regrettably.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whilst trying to install and fit an SKR Turbo 1.4 Turbo Motherboard into 3D printer body, I managed to break the SKR 1.4 Turbo Motherboard SD-card reader. The card reader is not flush and protrudes from the board. It peeled the reader from the PCB.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I attempted to fix it without success. I have since removed it from the controller board (the original SD-Card Reader PCB pads are not intact so connecting a new SD-Card Reader in place is not possible)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Have I bricked my brand new controller board?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please can anyone suggest (If possible):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Is there a way that this could be rectified in respect to uploading/flashing the Marlin 2 firmware to the SKR 1.4 Turbo&#xA;without the original SD-Card Reader Module?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;em&gt;I am under the impression I may be able to use a programmer of some description to upload the firmware?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Installation of a new SD-Card Reader that could be used instead of the built in default SD-Card Reader?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;em&gt;I think I would be required to first modify Marlin and then flash the motherboard firmware? Then perhaps be able to connect another SD-Card reader to the motherboard via SPI or alternative e.g wires to the respective pins on the reverse of the board?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could somebody kindly point me in the right direction?&#xA;I would appreciate some guidance if this indeed possible?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25081" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-11-02T13:26:26.840" LastActivityDate="2020-11-02T13:26:26.840" Title="SKR 1.4 Turbo - Withhout SD-card reader, bricked?" Tags="|marlin|sd|skr-v1.4|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14667" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14607" CreationDate="2020-10-26T20:51:26.643" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is a part of the extrusion ensemble called heatbreaker, responsible for sepparating the hot- and cold-ends. The problem is that I screwed the heatbreak up into the cold-end heatsinks and the heated block was now touching it. This made it cool off way too hard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The solution was switching to a new, undamaged cold+hotend.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="24994" LastActivityDate="2020-10-26T20:51:26.643" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14668" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-10-26T20:55:36.993" Score="1" ViewCount="1913" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to programatically generate G-code for a (Marlin-based) Ultimaker 2+ printer, and I have been looking at the &lt;a href=&quot;https://marlinfw.org/meta/gcode/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Marlin documentation&lt;/a&gt; and working G-code examples generated by Cura.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This has left me confused about exactly how Marlin interprets the feedrate (F) parameter in G-code commands.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I move on a single axis (e.g. &lt;code&gt;G1 F7000 X10&lt;/code&gt; or &lt;code&gt;G1 F200 E50&lt;/code&gt;), then I assume F simply says how fast that axis should move (ignoring acceleration).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On CNC milling machines I've worked with, the same is true when moving on multiple axes – for instance, &lt;code&gt;G1 F1000 X10 Y10 Z10&lt;/code&gt; would mean the &lt;em&gt;tool&lt;/em&gt; moves at 1000mm/min, and therefore the &lt;em&gt;individual&lt;/em&gt; axes are each moving at 693mm/min.  Which is good, because it means the feedrate doesn't depend on the direction of movement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But a 3D printer has four axes (E, X, Y, Z), and Marlin only uses a single feedrate parameter.  So do I need to calculate that in four-dimensional space?  In other words,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$F = \sqrt[4]{F_E^4 + F_X^4 + F_Y^4 + F_Z^4} ?$&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If that is not correct, how &lt;strong&gt;is&lt;/strong&gt; the feedrate related to the feedrates for the individual axes?.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25084" LastActivityDate="2020-10-26T21:32:27.200" Title="Details of Marlin's feedrate calculation" Tags="|marlin|g-code|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14669" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14668" CreationDate="2020-10-26T21:20:20.287" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Feedrates are not 4-dimensional, and yes this makes them a bit inconsistent. But physically the 4-dimensional speed would not make any sense - for example, slowing down the E axis while speeding up the X axis would not maintain the same &amp;quot;overall speed&amp;quot; in any meaningful sense.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, feedrates work differently for:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Moves with a nonzero X, Y, or Z component: the feedrate is an ideal, desired speed in 3 dimensions, possibly limited by the max feedrates of each axis (including E) individually, as well as their acceleration profiles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Extruder-only moves where X, Y, and Z components are all zero: the feedrate is an ideal, desired speed in one dimension: the E axis, and may be limited by the max feedrate and acceleration profile for the E axis.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastEditorUserId="11157" LastEditDate="2020-10-26T21:32:27.200" LastActivityDate="2020-10-26T21:32:27.200" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14672" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14660" CreationDate="2020-10-26T22:30:56.023" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know this sounds obvious, but given the box has holes in the top – does it only need to be watertight when it's the right way up?  If not, you could just do something like:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JXft9.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JXft9.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming that won't work, I think a really good seal would be hard with just something like PLA, because the printing texture alone means there will always be tiny gaps between the mating surfaces.  In some cases, those grooves will actually act as capillaries (if you've ever tried to use a sharpie marker on a print, you can imagine what I mean).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the lid fits snugly, then just lining it with something like plumber's thread tape would probably do a good job.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it needs to work straight out of the printer, then I would try something like this (obviously I've exaggerated the detail):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/P5Fuc.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/P5Fuc.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The idea being something like the plastic seal you see on some types of refrigerator door, which has a thin wall with a free edge that allows it to flex.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;NB in all these cases, sharp corners will cause problems – it will be easier to get a seal if you put a radius (say, 5mm) on the vertical edges of the box.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25084" LastActivityDate="2020-10-26T22:30:56.023" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14673" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3160" CreationDate="2020-10-26T23:27:14.127" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just did.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I printed a 4 screws at .2mm and 20% infill. surprisingly, all screws worked with a plastic m4 nut I had from china (not 3d printed). The project itself &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YarUK.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;1&lt;/a&gt; tells to print at 100% and 0.1.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I started screwing the 4th one, I pushed the tool badly, and the screw head popped off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After reading this thread, and experiencing what I just said above about the screw's head, I'm printing one more, this time at the maximum resolution and maximum infill. I'm also printing a nut to compare to this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even the ones with plastic flying around them worked well (see picture).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YarUK.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;1&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2591857&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2591857&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ps: apparently the person can't make hexagons. I will redo the heads in proper hexagons, as well as the little wrench when I have time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YarUK.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YarUK.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25090" LastActivityDate="2020-10-26T23:27:14.127" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14675" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-10-26T23:54:48.337" Score="1" ViewCount="42" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been reading and seeing a lot of texts on the internet and videos on YouTube claiming that enclosures are both beneficial and not so beneficial. My main concern though is the possible toxic fumes emission. I suffer from respiratory problems, and the last thing I need is a new poison in the air.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is ABS the only filament product I have to be careful with, or are there others I should worry about?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25088" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-10-27T07:22:42.077" LastActivityDate="2020-10-27T07:22:42.077" Title="Enclosures (w.r.t. emissions) useful for not only printing ABS?" Tags="|abs|enclosure|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14676" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3160" CreationDate="2020-10-27T00:32:53.277" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes. This question and most of the answers are old, and 3D printing has come a long way in the past 4 years or so. Alexandre Strube's bumping with one up-to-date answer inspired me to take another try at it, and my first attempt was an overwhelming success.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bolt printed in horizontal orientation (with support), nut vertical.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wall line width reduced from 0.4 mm to 0.3 mm (still 0.4 mm nozzle) - most important for the bolt or the thread profile is not achievable.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Layer height 0.12 for bolt, 0.08 for nut (to give nearly 10 layer per revolution)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Both offset 0.045 mm from ideal thread profile (at M6-M8 this is about the maximum allowable by ISO standard; at M4 it's surely excess but extrusion roundness of FDM probably compensates entirely anyway).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;100% infill, achieved with high wall line count rather than zigzag fill&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The nut and bolt fit tightly but can be turned by hand (if your fingers are small enough) with some force.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0ofe4.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;bolt on bed with support&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/29uYN.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;nut and bolt threaded together&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These were printed in cheap PLA on an Ender 3 with entirely stock hardware, but upgraded controller board (SKR mini E3 V2.0) and firmware (presently using &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.klipper3d.org/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Klipper&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for whether they're usable, My Tech Fun has &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZiQek0wei1g&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;a video&lt;/a&gt; testing the strength of 3D-printed bolts in different orientations. His tests were of M10, but the horizontally-printed one was able to hold over 140 kg in a pulling test, making it (especially with multiple bolts) suitable for serious applications.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since the question mentioned M3, I went back later and figured I'd go even smaller and give M2.5 a try... and it worked! This is pretty surprising considering the pitch is just over the nozzle size, but with 0.2 mm extrusion widths and 0.08 mm layers it came out usable:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gGuHW.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;M2.5 nut and bolt with micro sd card for scale&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastEditorUserId="11157" LastEditDate="2020-10-28T04:32:38.503" LastActivityDate="2020-10-28T04:32:38.503" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14677" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-10-27T08:23:05.757" Score="0" ViewCount="626" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an issue with my Flashforge Adventurer 3. When printing with ABS, the bed temperature is not going over 89 °C. Additionally, when I connect to the printer with Flashprint, it displays a negative bed temperature (when I connect to the printer, the bed temperature is displayed as -11 °C).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it somehow possible to calibrate the temperature? Or is there any other solution for this issue?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25097" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-10-27T12:10:53.297" LastActivityDate="2020-11-30T18:20:49.093" Title="Flashforge Adventurer 3 - bed temperature not going over 89 °C" Tags="|heated-bed|thermistor|flashforge-adventurer-3|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14678" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14680" CreationDate="2020-10-27T12:38:11.140" Score="1" ViewCount="1914" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm working on a project for my masters where I'm trying to detect print errors using object detection and I want to be able to pause the printer when a potential fault is detected. However I can't seem to figure out the correct way to send G-code to my printer from a Python script. Does anyone happen to know how this works?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25102" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-10-27T14:31:14.800" LastActivityDate="2021-04-07T11:57:47.740" Title="How do you send G-code from a USB port with Python?" Tags="|g-code|usb|python|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14679" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14516" CreationDate="2020-10-27T12:56:39.490" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Aligning build surfaces isn't the main issue with 1 mm thick surfaces when aligning four 200 x 200 mm surfaces to make one 400 x 400 surface.  The main issue is slight bucking at the seams from thermal mismatch.  Using this with PETG tends to tear up the build surface at the seams.  The image shows aligned surfaces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/14q3L.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/14q3L.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The above was a poor design because prints tended to always print on the seams, which are more susceptible to damage when removing the print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More reliable was to put one 200 x 200 mm surface in the center of the bed, cut the other three in half, and tile them along the sides.  Glue stice helps fill the seams.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mC4ea.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mC4ea.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The center of the surface tends to wear out first.  In that case only the center surface would need changing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15075" LastEditorUserId="15075" LastEditDate="2021-06-15T16:35:26.627" LastActivityDate="2021-06-15T16:35:26.627" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14680" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14678" CreationDate="2020-10-27T14:58:37.273" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The process is pretty straightforward, you open a serial connection and send the instructions over the serial connection. The printer reports &amp;quot;&lt;code&gt;OK&lt;/code&gt;&amp;quot; when &lt;strong&gt;received&lt;/strong&gt; (&lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; when the command has been executed).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can use pySerial to connect to a USB port with the correct speed, then send the command you want to execute (include the newline char).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You need to be aware that commands are &lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#Buffering&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;buffered&lt;/a&gt;, if the buffer is full, the printer sends &amp;quot;OK&amp;quot; when there is a spot free in the buffer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See &lt;a href=&quot;https://stackoverflow.com/questions/59957089/how-to-send-one-gcode-command-over-usb&quot;&gt;this question on a sister SE&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-04-07T11:57:47.740" LastActivityDate="2021-04-07T11:57:47.740" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14682" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14685" CreationDate="2020-10-27T22:38:13.310" Score="2" ViewCount="517" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a FlashForge Creator Pro, couple of years old.  I'm looking to replace one or both of the heating blocks, as they're getting old and pretty gunked up.  Instead of buying two blocks at \$30 each, I thought I could take some aluminum and make two on my CNC mill.  The only thing - are there any manufacturer provided dimensions?  I could probably get by measuring with calipers, but I'd prefer the exact specifications.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25105" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-10-28T06:37:01.717" LastActivityDate="2020-10-28T08:59:57.147" Title="What are the dimensions of the FlashForge Creator Pro heating block?" Tags="|flashforge-creator|flashforge|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14683" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3738" CreationDate="2020-10-28T06:37:32.060" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well I think it's a good question, but like what was already stated this question is extremely broad. I am however curious as well. If I take what has already been said literally and apply it to a 3D model of a palm tree, for example. From what y'all are saying, everyone that has ever made a 3D model after the first person in history made one is now in violation of copyright infringement... Not sure how that makes sense but I am going by what was said in the answers. Because if something is copyrighted and you make something that is similar in nature then I take it all foliage made in a 3D modelling program must be in violation of copyright infringement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unless y'all are referring to unique cases where someone was to make a unique piece of art and then someone else was to come along and reproduce it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tom said above that these would be copyright violations:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;make adaptations and arrangements of the work&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;make reproductions in any manner or form&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Well, reproducing a palm tree someone else has made or a blade of grass would then technically be a copyright violation, since someone has claimed a copyright on it and sold it in landscape packages for example.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25109" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2020-10-29T15:43:26.097" LastActivityDate="2020-10-29T15:43:26.097" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14685" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14682" CreationDate="2020-10-28T08:59:57.147" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The FlashForge Creator Pro uses a &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/5437/5740&quot;&gt;MK10 hotend&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Mk7dL.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Mk7dL.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Micro Swiss MK10 All Metal Hotend Kit for instance is reported to be a drop-in replacement for the FlashForge Creator Pro, it uses M7 threads.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The heater block for an MK10 has a threaded hole for the thermistor (M4), but some use a machined hole for PT100/3 mm thermistor cartridges. The block measures around 20 x 20 13 mm. The images below should give you enough information to create your custom blocks. However, there appear to be 3&lt;sup&gt;rd&lt;/sup&gt; supplier after-market blocks available on on-line webshops and market places&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kY26D.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kY26D.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3x8qP.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3x8qP.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MSlOg.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MSlOg.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Flashforge original spare part heater blocks show that they are slightly different (the top image shows symmetrical heater blocks while the spare parts are not symmetrical), so above drawings and caliper measurements should give you enough information to reproduce the heater block.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rTVuj.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rTVuj.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;It would be a great addition if you added your own answer once you measured your blocks and created some drawings!&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2020-10-28T08:59:57.147" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14686" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14690" CreationDate="2020-10-28T14:44:58.450" Score="2" ViewCount="740" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Question background:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am building an extruder / hotend combination to be used with 2.85 mm filaments.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The extruder I chose is QR Extruder from Bondtech which comes with a stepper motor, with an integrated planetary gear system and a reduction of 5.18 to 1.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The motor's specification states that it has a backlash of less than 1 degree.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have contacted the manufacturer but I could not get a more specific number.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Here is what I'd like to know (i.e., my question clarified) :&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How does this &amp;lt; 1 degree backlash translate to pushing filament through the hot end?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Once the extruder steps are calibrated, can it cause artifacts on the prints?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Can linear advance (Marlin) or pressure advance (Klipper/Duet) make up for this &amp;lt; 1 degree backlash of the planetary gear system?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23636" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2020-10-28T21:27:39.190" LastActivityDate="2020-10-29T09:47:53.690" Title="What are the effects of backlash from a geared stepper motor used to drive a filament extruder?" Tags="|extruder|stepper|motor|extruder-driver|drive-gear|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14687" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-10-28T19:22:02.847" Score="0" ViewCount="460" Body="&lt;p&gt;Main board: MKS GEN L V1.4&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The SD card reader on the original controller LCD (from four years ago, or so) went out, so I replaced it with a touch screen. I found, however, that I don't like the touchscreen interface as much as the LCD home screen, so I ordered what I thought was an identical LCD controller. They certainly look the same.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The original controller is plugged in now and working. It should just be a matter of the EXP1 and EXP2 cables between new and old, but when I plug it in and fire up the printer, the beeper starts a constant, weak beeping, the screen sort of flashes on/off, on/off... Is there something I'm missing? Some fundamental difference between the old LCDs and the new? Is there firmware I'm missing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/8091/lcd-full-graphic-smart-controller-no-character-display-and-screen-blinking&quot;&gt;I saw this post that talks about turning the slots&lt;/a&gt;, but they don't move and I'm afraid of applying too much pressure. How hard should it be? Can I accomplish the same thing by reversing the connector on one end of the ribbon cable?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14530" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-10-31T07:01:44.720" LastActivityDate="2020-10-31T07:01:44.720" Title="New RepRap Discount Smart Controller blinks and beeps, but doesn't display" Tags="|reprap|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2020-10-31T07:00:49.693" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14688" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14687" CreationDate="2020-10-28T19:48:08.937" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;So, the answer in the other referenced post was correct, the slots were turned opposite how they should have been. AND YES: you can create a &amp;quot;crossover&amp;quot; ribbon cable and everything works great, so physically turning the slots is not necessary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14530" LastActivityDate="2020-10-28T19:48:08.937" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14689" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3160" CreationDate="2020-10-28T21:20:01.770" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Vertically printed threaded bolts generally work better than you might expect, because (1) the layers are nearly parallel to the direction in which they have to slide, so the bolt can turn smoothly, and (2) when a typical bolt is sliced, the resulting layers are just circles, which are about the least problematic shape you could print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also note that, especially if you're printing a bolt to use with a metal nut (or vice versa), then as long as the thread is close enough, it will end up being crushed / sheared into the right profile; it's a bit like how you can drive a screw into timber without having to tap a thread.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In principle, the pitch of a printed bolt could be very fine; as long as the layer height is less than half the pitch (i.e. the Nyquist limit), and the spacing is correct, then the threads will engage.  So if you can print 0.1mm layers, you have enough detail for M1 or smaller.  Of course you're not going to print a bolt that small, but the point is, the limit is not resolution, it's the strength of the print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The horizontally-printed bolt in &lt;code&gt;@R.. GitHub STOP HELPING ICE&lt;/code&gt;'s answer is impressive – if you can print that, then that's the answer.  But even if you can't, you could definitely print a horizontal 3mm diameter cylinder, and then use a die to cut the thread on the finished part.  It's not a &amp;quot;pure&amp;quot; printed solution, but you can get a cheap tap-and-die set from any auto parts store for less than the cost of a spool of filament.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25084" LastActivityDate="2020-10-28T21:20:01.770" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14690" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14686" CreationDate="2020-10-29T06:52:43.263" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;During normal extrusion backlash has no effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;During retraction you can perfectly compensate by increasing retraction length slightly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Backlash cannot be taken into account for pressure advance, but unless it's a lot, it should not cause issues: pressure compensation is a second order effect and does not need to be tuned super accurately to produce results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One degree does not seem to be enough to cause problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2338" LastEditorUserId="2338" LastEditDate="2020-10-29T09:47:53.690" LastActivityDate="2020-10-29T09:47:53.690" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14691" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-10-29T07:16:15.560" Score="7" ViewCount="6364" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to build a DIY 3D printer for myself. I've been exploring many different styles of printers and found this type of printer that has a fixed bed that stays fixed in one place and the whole gantry moves which includes all axes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Why is this so rare?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Are there flaws in this design?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Will print quality be affected by using this approach?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check out this video for reference and skip to 10:50: &lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/XeX7QthGKpA?start=1&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21785" LastEditorUserId="21785" LastEditDate="2020-10-29T15:27:03.030" LastActivityDate="2023-04-08T07:40:12.180" Title="Why aren't fixed build platform 3D printers popular?" Tags="|diy-3d-printer|z-axis|carriage|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14693" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14691" CreationDate="2020-10-29T10:49:53.903" Score="10" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why is this so rare?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Such kind of printers usually harder to assembles, calibrate, and maintain because 3 axes machine is a bit more complex than 2 axes. For instance, it's can be tricky to move an entire extruder among all 3 axis and some of such printer's designs may require even dedicated exruder's design like Bowden Extruders.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there flaws in this design?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The key disadvantage of such kind designs is complexity with moving of an extruder among all 3 axes. Moving platform by at least one axis simplifies that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will print quality be affected by using this approach?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It depends on the exact printer's design, so, potentially you can have issues with ease of assembling and maintenance due to more complicated construction and as a consequence higher risk of low printing quality due design, assembly or configuration mistakes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other hand, if you already have some device with precise enough 3 axis machine, like CNC milling machine, you can upgrade it to 3D printer by installing an extruder, however, it would also require update of software and, probably, electronics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8008" LastActivityDate="2020-10-29T10:49:53.903" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14694" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14691" CreationDate="2020-10-29T11:42:42.493" Score="4" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why is this so rare?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is rare because machine designers basically copy the designs that work, without trying to innovate too much. As a result of this, &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Adrian_Bowyer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Adrian Bowyer&lt;/a&gt;'s original &lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/wiki/RepRap&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;RepRap&lt;/a&gt; design (a travelling type) is currently the most prominent desktop 3D printer design around.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there flaws in this design?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There aren't any flaws in the concept for a static bed, after all, it is just a design concept; there are advantages and disadvantages for each type (static, floating and travelling).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will print quality be affected by using this approach?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The individual implementations will have varying levels of success. Certain designs provide more quality than most due to the rigidity of the frame that is required (e.g. CoreXY) which in turn provides better print quality. Any printer design can produce a good print quality when the machine is well designed and well maintained.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12857" LastEditorUserId="16807" LastEditDate="2020-11-01T03:13:31.480" LastActivityDate="2020-11-01T03:13:31.480" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14695" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-10-29T14:01:14.193" Score="2" ViewCount="1119" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm printing basically a large flat square pane. This goes fine for 3 layers, after which the temperature suddenly drops by about ten degrees. After a while, my printer goes into thermal runaway protection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I restarted my print, and as soon as the temperature drops, I pause the print. I wait for it to go up again, and resume. It starts dropping again, so I decide to see about continuing this part at 200 degrees (which worked quite fine, so I think I'll stick at 200 for now.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0hG7j.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0hG7j.png&quot; alt=&quot;Temperature suddenly drops to 200&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have tested running the printer at 210 and turning on the fan, thinking maybe it's simply related to that. That does not give a thermal runaway, and a drop of 2 degrees max. My assumption is that it's the PID.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do I fix this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My printer is a heavily modified Anet a8, running Marlin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9237" LastActivityDate="2022-03-23T19:08:10.710" Title="Drop in temperature after couple layers" Tags="|temperature|thermal-runaway|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14696" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14695" CreationDate="2020-10-29T14:44:43.010" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had a similar problem with an Anet A8 once. The problem was, that the thermistor wasn't mounted right &lt;strong&gt;in&lt;/strong&gt; the heat block, so the air flow cooled it while the print head was moving. You can check, whether this is a problem at your printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25126" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-10-29T15:02:19.193" LastActivityDate="2020-10-29T15:02:19.193" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14697" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14691" CreationDate="2020-10-29T17:52:34.463" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;As a frame challenge, they kind of are. It's just that the optimal, and in some sense only reasonable, design for a fixed build platform that doesn't move on any axis is the &lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/wiki/Delta&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;delta robot geometry&lt;/a&gt;. This design is not the most popular, but it's far from obscure - there are lots of cheap entry-level delta printers available as well as higher-end ones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What makes delta optimal? Keeping a single gantry (like the Ender 3 has) square with a fixed bed height is hard enough; it requires a very rigid frame and perfect rails/rods. If you want to have a multi-axis motion system over a completely fixed bed, you have a whole extra dimension in which it can be non-square. Mechanically (at least for a plain cartesian configuration) it's like having a gantry that moves between two other gantries, each of which already has concerns about remaining square, and the resulting system might not even end up being planar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The delta configuration avoids this by not having a 2-axis motion system that's constrained to a particular movable Z height relative to the bed, but instead calibrating the transformation between a constrained motion system with free degrees of freedom and normal cartesian coordinates. Any error can just get calibrated out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On top of that, delta has an extremely low toolhead mass, allowing extreme speeds and accelerations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2020-10-29T17:52:34.463" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14698" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14691" CreationDate="2020-10-29T19:51:17.773" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Within the realm of Cartesian machines (eg having orthogonal X, Y, Z axis) consider the sort of design you do see: the Ultimaker-like X-Y stage over a build platform which can drop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The question is then, why drop the build rather than raise the mechanism?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Likely the reason is mechanical simplicity.  The X-Y gantry is the part that moves around quickly and may vibrate.  It's also the part that is rather complex and has lots of electrical cables.  Making that fixed in the housing is generally a simplicity.   In contrast, the built object in a typical consumer printer has lower mass, and the build platform only moves slowly so variation in dynamics from its increasing mass isn't really an issue (increasing build mass typically isn't even really taken into account in designs where the build rides on a rapidly moving Y axis either).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might ask, what would a machine like this look like if instead of dropping the build you raised the mechanism?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It turns out such a thing does exist, in the form of a clever hack where you run a linear rail up the wall of your hackerspace, mount your entire Ultimaker-style printer on it (less build platform and bottom panel), and tap out the Z control signals such that the printer climbs itself up the wall leaving some towering sort of build on a fixed platform below.   Conceivably if you wanted to start there you could also saw off all but the top third or so of the cabinet to leave the X-Y gantry with some rigid frame.   But it's a bigger, more expensive product that doesn't work simply by lifting it out out of the shipping box.  Apart from very unusual or &amp;quot;proof of concept&amp;quot; builds, it doesn't make a whole lot of sense.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The thing about the 3d printer realm is that you're free to try anything you like.  Some ideas work.  Some ideas don't.  Some that go a little bit against orthodox mechanical design as taught in Mech E. departments turn out to work a bit better than they should fairly be expected to, and make it into products.   But generally what is on the market is what has proven to present a good balance between cost and utility.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1378" LastEditorUserId="1378" LastEditDate="2020-10-29T19:56:32.617" LastActivityDate="2020-10-29T19:56:32.617" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14699" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13739" CreationDate="2020-10-30T16:09:56.003" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Finally I found an solution. But I still don't know what exactly the problem was.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my case the problem vanished after the following steps:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;replace stock effector with &lt;a href=&quot;https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Smart_effector_and_carriage_adapters_for_delta_printer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Duet Smart Effector&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;replaced stock push rods with &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.magballarms.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Magballarms&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;used &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4458056&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;custom carriages on the towers&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14901" LastActivityDate="2020-10-30T16:09:56.003" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14700" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14181" CreationDate="2020-10-30T19:20:32.760" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;This guy placed the whole Ender in a 100C environment but he emphasises how important it is to leave the electronics cool:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/79r5D9nCQfM?start=1216&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2338" LastActivityDate="2020-10-30T19:20:32.760" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14702" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14711" CreationDate="2020-10-31T15:18:29.957" Score="1" ViewCount="780" Body="&lt;p&gt;My prints have recently started to come out with a serious skew along the Y axis.  This occurs regardless of printing parameters such as speed/acceleration. I don't know the exact cause yet, can someone help me resolve this? What could have caused this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XiodQ.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XiodQ.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please don't mind the stringing/blobs, I'm currently running out of filament and I was forced to use an old PET-G spool damaged by moisture.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16798" LastEditorUserId="16798" LastEditDate="2020-10-31T21:30:38.250" LastActivityDate="2020-11-01T18:30:30.270" Title="Prusa MK3S Y-skewed prints" Tags="|print-quality|prusa-i3|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14703" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14707" CreationDate="2020-11-01T04:34:50.413" Score="0" ViewCount="2524" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am attempting to make my Ender 3 Pro print significantly faster than it is intended it I fear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hear a clicking noise coming from the extruder above 130 mm/s in Cura when it is going in long straight lines (I think my acceleration settings prevent it on shorter lines).  I have seen this before when the bed is too close to the nozzle but I have auto bed leveling now and it is happening on all layers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a standard extruder + Bowden tube setup.  What can I do to make things go faster?  I am less concerned about the quality of the print and more concerned about the speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sof1U.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Front View&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sof1U.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Front View&quot; title=&quot;Front View&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zta0M.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Top View&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zta0M.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Top View&quot; title=&quot;Top View&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23252" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2020-11-01T12:20:41.407" LastActivityDate="2020-11-02T09:56:38.433" Title="Ender 3 Extruder Speed / Upgrade" Tags="|creality-ender-3|extruder|speed|bowden|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14704" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14576" CreationDate="2020-11-01T05:31:37.053" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found the solution. Controller board was broken, I had to order a new one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23909" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-11-01T10:32:26.250" LastActivityDate="2020-11-01T10:32:26.250" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14705" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-11-01T06:05:29.457" Score="1" ViewCount="733" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm currently working on a CoreXY printer, my build platform will be 220 x 220 mm I've chosen to go with linear rails on X and Y axes. I have some nice straight machined 12 mm diameter lead screws on hand which I'm thinking of using in the Z-axis, both of them will be supported on each end with pillow blocks, is it necessary to support them with rails? Or will it be overkill?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21785" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-11-02T09:01:07.240" LastActivityDate="2020-11-02T09:01:07.240" Title="Do I need linear rails on a corexy printer's z-axis while already having quality lead screws at hand?" Tags="|diy-3d-printer|corexy|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14706" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14718" CreationDate="2020-11-01T06:25:00.680" Score="0" ViewCount="180" Body="&lt;p&gt;My build with the Hypercube Evolution continues with a replacement BIQI KFB2.0 board. I am not at the printing stage yet. This is due to my latest problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The kit contains a “no-name” hotend, complete with round finned heatsink and nozzle. Looks a bit like a V5 J Head Hot End.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Everything is wired up. A 24 V power supply is being used. The printer is connected to Pronterface via USB. Using Pronterface, I set the hotend temperature to 70 °C. The KFB2.0 board lights a bright red LED when power is being sent to the hotend (and/or the heated bed). On initial heating, the red LED is on until the hotend temperature reaches around 65 °C and then turns off. The temperature continues to climb to around 120 to 125 °C, then starts falling. At 69/70 °C the red LED comes on again for about two seconds, the temperature continues to climb after the red LED is off to around 86 °C. It then cycles around the 69/70 to 86 °C position.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have removed the thermistor to check its resistance. Reads greater than 100 kΩ. When in situ in the hotend, it was reading around 85 k&amp;amp;ohm, but a bit of Kapton tape sorted that. I was now reading 100 k&amp;amp;ohm with the thermistor in place. I then used Pronterface to set the temperature again. This time with a multimeter hooked up to the hotend terminals on the board. It confirmed that the bright red LED was sending 24 V and nothing when not on, so the hotend is recording a temperature increase from around 65 to 125 °C with no power. But, I now got something different when the temperature fell back to 69/70 °C. The red LED flickered for about two seconds and the multimeter showed readings fluctuating between 0.1 and 4.2 V. From this point the hotend kept the correct temperature, even after I had removed the multimeter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has anybody any idea why the temperature is going so high and what can I do to fix it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23909" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-11-03T15:26:05.493" LastActivityDate="2020-11-03T15:26:05.493" Title="New Build. Hotend Overheating. Not Printing Yet" Tags="|hotend|temperature|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2020-11-03T15:29:46.560" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14707" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14703" CreationDate="2020-11-01T07:12:41.533" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am still somewhat of a noob, but I have heard that your problem may be because the extruder is not getting the filament out fast enough. You are trying to extrude filament before it is sufficiently fluid. Try increasing your hotend temperature by 5 degrees.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23909" LastActivityDate="2020-11-01T07:12:41.533" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14708" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-11-01T10:30:21.040" Score="1" ViewCount="569" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently bought what I am told is an Ender 3 clone. It is a CTC model and has v1-5 written in the bottom corner and comes with a Marlin v1 firmware. But I have no idea what board it is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I send command &lt;code&gt;M115&lt;/code&gt;, I get&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;FIRMWARE_NAME:Marlin V1; Sprinter/grbl mashup for gen6 &#xA;FIRMWARE_URL:http://www.mendel-parts.com &#xA;PROTOCOL_VERSION:1.0 &#xA;MACHINE_TYPE:CTC 3D &#xA;EXTRUDER_COUNT:1 &#xA;UUID:00000000-0000-0000-0000-000000000000&amp;quot;&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can anybody help me identify this board so I can upgrade the firmware to Marlin 2 in the hopes of getting it to work with Octoprint, and all the safety features that come with the new firmware (such as thermal runaway protection).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vOemn.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Controller board&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vOemn.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Controller board&quot; title=&quot;Controller board&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25155" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2020-11-01T12:23:42.277" LastActivityDate="2020-11-01T15:46:08.707" Title="Identifying this ATmega1284P board" Tags="|marlin|creality-ender-3|firmware|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14709" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14708" CreationDate="2020-11-01T10:39:13.903" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This printer controller board looks exactly like an Anet controller board. These also have a v1.5 version:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2Df11.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2Df11.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your board misses the &amp;quot;Anet&amp;quot; branding, but includes the 1.5 version designation. Your board is probably customized with a different silkscreen (ink layer that identifies components and other information) on PCBs (printed circuit boars). Rebranding is pretty common in electronics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-11-01T15:46:08.707" LastActivityDate="2020-11-01T15:46:08.707" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14710" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14705" CreationDate="2020-11-01T16:37:11.140" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Using rails for Z is overkill. They are stiffer than smooth rods, but for Z axis that's not needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using only the leadscrew may be enough, especially in designs with three of them, but if you have only two you may be able to still twist the bed around the Z axis.&#xA;Also, the bed would be supported only in the center by the &amp;quot;nut&amp;quot; on the leadscrew. This means that the bed could wiggle around the X axis (the axis along the line between the two nuts).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some additional support for the bed, or using two &amp;quot;nuts&amp;quot; per leadscrew, properly spaced apart, is usually needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This in general. Since you mention now that the bed is 220x220 mm, maybe you can get away with the two leadscrews alone, especially if you can find &amp;quot;long&amp;quot; leadscrew nuts, so that the wiggling is not excessive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2338" LastEditorUserId="2338" LastEditDate="2020-11-02T08:53:38.670" LastActivityDate="2020-11-02T08:53:38.670" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14711" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14702" CreationDate="2020-11-01T18:30:30.270" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Apparently, the possible cause mentioned by @R.. GitHub STOP HELPING ICE turned out to be true. The frame was noticeably skewed in the Y-axis, which is why the prints were leaning in that direction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I replaced the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.prusa3d.com/prusa-i3-printable-parts/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Z-axis top parts&lt;/a&gt; with a 3D printed modified version of them (what came with the printer is orange, what I printed is yellow.) The modified version is slightly longer so as to move the steel rods (ones that hold the X-axis) slightly towards the front of the printer (in the opposite direction to the skew)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This turned out to work perfectly, the skew is still slightly present, but it has been substantially mitigated and I can fix it completely by adjusting the length of the printed parts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/r6Aii.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/r6Aii.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/c7Fev.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/c7Fev.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16798" LastActivityDate="2020-11-01T18:30:30.270" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14712" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8022" CreationDate="2020-11-02T04:39:58.343" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I solved the problem by adding a second Z-axis leadscrew. The problem was that I could have either too tight Z-axis rollers or a sagging gantry. Both of this lead to the nozzle rubbing over the print. In case of sagging, rubbing on the right hand side of the print and a too large distance on the left. In case of too tight rollers, rubbing on the whole print or on whichever side had the tight rollers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't want to invest in a dual leadscrew setup, turn the excentric nuts that fix the rollers of the gantry to the Z-axis; making sure that they are tight enough but not overtight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25161" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-11-02T06:04:40.760" LastActivityDate="2020-11-02T06:04:40.760" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14713" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14703" CreationDate="2020-11-02T09:56:38.433" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You're likely hitting the thermal limit of your hot end.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The standard Creality hotend used in your printers maxes out at around 8-12 mm³/s.&#xA;To calculate your current volumetric speed, you can simply calculate&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;code&gt;speed * layer height * extrusion width&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With an 0.45 mm extrusion width and 0.2 mm layer heights, printing at 130 mm/s would put you at around 11,7 mm³/s - very high for the standard hot end.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Increasing temperatures as suggested in the other answer will help, but might reduce print quality on other layers / intricate structures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &amp;quot;proper&amp;quot; solution would be a Volcano or SuperVolcano hot end, or any of the other &amp;quot;high flow&amp;quot; alternatives.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13171" LastActivityDate="2020-11-02T09:56:38.433" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14714" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14666" CreationDate="2020-11-02T10:07:56.467" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You may get lucky flashing firmware with the STM Cube Programmer, though I haven't tried that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/bigtreetech/BIGTREETECH-SKR-V1.3/blob/master/BTT%20SKR%20V1.4/Hardware/BTT%20SKR%20V1.4-SCH.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;schematic for the SKR 1.4 Turbo&lt;/a&gt; shows that the relevant pins for the SD card are also accessible via the 2x3 SPI header - except for the P0.27 pin used for &amp;quot;SD DETECT&amp;quot;, which you may have to circumvent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I believe you should be able to use an &amp;quot;SDRamps&amp;quot; module and connect that to the SPI header via jumper cables.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13171" LastActivityDate="2020-11-02T10:07:56.467" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14715" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-11-02T10:25:32.893" Score="0" ViewCount="84" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since I have some problems with printing I wanted to try to adjust my extruder esteps. While changing the esteps I noticed that the value has almost no impact. My default setting was 93 and the calculation went from iteration to iteration up to 375. Then I just tried my luck with 450 and then 75 the results were all crap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then I notices that the filament didn't move as fast as the stepper motor. So I guess there is the problem. What can I do to fix this issue?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13891" LastActivityDate="2020-11-02T10:25:32.893" Title="Adjusting extruder" Tags="|prusa-i3|extruder|calibration|geeetech|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14716" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14666" CreationDate="2020-11-02T12:44:23.920" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are skilled with soldering, you can connect the pins of the SD card reader directly to the pins of the CPU with thin wires. They are small, but it's doable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then hot glue all in place to avoid stress on the wires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whatever you decide to do, be sure that it will be less convenient than getting a new board, assuming you value your time at least around 10 Euro/dollars per hour...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2338" LastEditorUserId="2338" LastEditDate="2020-11-02T12:53:42.163" LastActivityDate="2020-11-02T12:53:42.163" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14717" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-11-02T17:26:10.333" Score="0" ViewCount="672" Body="&lt;p&gt;I own two Ender3 printers, a stock one and one upgraded with SKR mini E3 v1.2 and BMG clone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I calibrated the E-steps using the filament measurement method ~415 looks correct.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The machine severely over extrudes, reducing the flow rate to ~50 % looks right. I would say it pushes out about twice as much material then it should.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am testing this using a simple one walled cube, sliced with Cura 4.7.1.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Printing this will have the wall thickens about double and several blobbing on the side the layers are restarted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Printing the same G-code on the stock printer works without problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Printing from the card or using Repetier Server does not make any difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13406" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-11-03T15:34:58.697" LastActivityDate="2020-11-03T15:34:58.697" Title="Over extrusion on Ender 3 with SKR mini E3 v1.2 and BMG clone (Bowden)" Tags="|creality-ender-3|skr-mini-e3|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14718" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14706" CreationDate="2020-11-03T09:38:40.243" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;3.9 ohms is a 12V heater.  It won't work on 24V.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15075" LastActivityDate="2020-11-03T09:38:40.243" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14719" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14724" CreationDate="2020-11-03T13:56:33.820" Score="0" ViewCount="189" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm building a weather-proof enclosure for some electronics. It's expected to stay exposed outside all the time so I'm worried about its resistance:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What would recommend me for 3D filament? I was thinking about &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.formfutura.com/shop/product/apollox-2779?category=453&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;ApolloX ASA&lt;/a&gt; but I don't have an enclosure.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What post-processing should I go with without being overkill? I was thinking about:&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Resin coating &lt;em&gt;(was thinking about &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B00PFXK4JY&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;XTC-3D&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Filler/Primer spray&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;UV-resistant spray paint&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Water-proofing spray&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The enclosure have some moving parts exposed, how do I make the junction between them water-tight?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21787" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2020-11-03T22:36:28.257" LastActivityDate="2020-11-04T08:53:49.643" Title="Post-processing and filaments for weather-proof electronic enclosure" Tags="|post-processing|filament-choice|water-resistance|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14720" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8271" CreationDate="2020-11-03T14:09:39.257" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In case someone still has this problem I have a solution for what happened in my case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am using a 3DTouch and I also encountered the same problem and it was solved by commenting &lt;code&gt;//#define BLTOUCH_HS_MODE&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25175" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-11-03T15:20:57.710" LastActivityDate="2020-11-03T15:20:57.710" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14723" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-11-04T03:15:37.453" Score="1" ViewCount="535" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm building a new 3D printer (P3 steel type, 24 V setup) and I've been struggling with the wire gauge to connect the PSU (24 V, 15 A) to the SKR 1.4.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From my calculations, 1.5 mm&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; should be fine, but I'm thinking about using 2.5 mm&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; just to be safe. What are your opinions on this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25180" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2020-11-04T05:07:36.187" LastActivityDate="2020-11-04T05:07:36.187" Title="Which wire size to connect 24 V PSU to board?" Tags="|power-supply|wire-type|p3steel|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14724" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14719" CreationDate="2020-11-04T08:53:49.643" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are already some questions about the choice of filaments for outdoor use:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/3853/which-is-more-durable-to-sunlight-weather-pla-abs-or-petg&quot;&gt;Which is more durable to sunlight/weather - PLA, ABS or PETG&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10/3d-printing-for-outdoor-use-what-types-of-filament-are-most-weather-resistant&quot;&gt;3d printing for outdoor use: what types of filament are most weather resistant?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/2952/pla-use-outdoors&quot;&gt;PLA use outdoors?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It may very well be that if you print in PETG you won't need any postprocessing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you still want to, you could try to paint or spray the outside with some bitumen spray for car underbody.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think that the only part which actually needs postprocessing is the spot with exposed moving parts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's difficult or impossible to find a solution without having an idea of what we are talking about when you say &amp;quot;some moving parts exposed&amp;quot;, but in general this is solved first of all by adapting the design so that water wont' be an issue: rain should flow away without getting inside, and spatwater should be reduced so that it will evaporate when rain stops.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you only have an exposed pin for rotating parts which are inside, you could also pour some wax: it will seal it while allowing movement. The same bitumen spray may help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2338" LastActivityDate="2020-11-04T08:53:49.643" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14725" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14727" CreationDate="2020-11-04T09:12:15.110" Score="1" ViewCount="3072" Body="&lt;p&gt;I couldn't find a reliable source listing the improvements of BLtouch 3.1 vs 3.0.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can see that BLtouch 3.0 is sold (original) for about 20 Euro, while 3.1 costs about 30 Euro. The difference is significant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are the improvements?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2338" LastActivityDate="2020-11-04T10:05:34.717" Title="What are the changes between BLtouch 3.0 and 3.1?" Tags="|bltouch|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14726" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14728" CreationDate="2020-11-04T09:13:31.417" Score="1" ViewCount="624" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have looked at many tutorials already but I am not sure about how I should wire this properly. I bought a BLTouch V3.1 together with an extension cable&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CKj0T.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CKj0T.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, the thing is, with that extension cable you get one set of wires for the servo in a Dupont connection (brown, red, yellow) and one for the Z-min in a JST connection (black, white).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The JST connection actually has room for three cables, and when holding it the way you can plug it into the Anet A6 you have the following order: Empty, Black, White. However, IIRC the input Z-min input on the Anet wants the following order: GND, VCC, Z-min.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So if I would use the cable like this. then I would connect the black wire of the BLTouch to the VCC. Will this cause any trouble with my BLtouch?&#xA;Because I think it does, but then again, why would you sell such a wire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14805" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-11-04T10:25:03.280" LastActivityDate="2020-11-04T12:25:06.960" Title="Wiring BLTouch V3.1 on Anet A6 and the JST connector polarity" Tags="|bltouch|anet-a6|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14727" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14725" CreationDate="2020-11-04T10:05:34.717" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Best reference would be the original equipment manufacturer (Antclabs). It appears their sensor has had many &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.antclabs.com/version&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;versions&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0HwKu.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0HwKu.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, from 3.0 to 3.1 is a software upgrade. Reported highlights are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;★ Smart V3.0 (Mar. 2019 ~ ) : S10, S60, S90, S120, S140, S150, S160,&#xA;PWM Wiring defect indication(Blue LED), QR, Molex 1.25, Plastic&#xA;Push-pin(PC), Power Wiring defect indication(Red LED)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;★ Smart V3.1 (Mar. 2019 ~ ) : S10, S60, S90, S120, S130, S140, S150,&#xA;S160, PWM Wiring defect indication(Blue LED), QR, Molex 1.25, Plastic&#xA;Push-pin(PC), Power Wiring defect indication(Red LED)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you look at the manuals you will see the differences:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;V3.0&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pJsjD.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pJsjD.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;V3.1&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ykPvN.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ykPvN.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As can be seen, timings are different and more PWM position G-code options are available in the V3.1.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2020-11-04T10:05:34.717" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14728" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14726" CreationDate="2020-11-04T12:25:06.960" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Black is GND and should not be connected to VCC.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that you can simply pop out the metal parts (use a pin to press a small clip) from the connector and rearrange how you want them to be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that most printer controller boards have the GND of all the endstops connected, so technically you don't need the black wire at all. I make my own extension cables (from 4 wire cable) where the brown and black are connected at the sensor side and a single white wire is used for the Z-min endstop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2020-11-04T12:25:06.960" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14729" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11844" CreationDate="2020-11-04T13:28:39.647" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Eventually it was a mixture of things that sort of solved this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Setting the Z-offset a bit more tight helped some&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Probing with more gridpoints helped&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Instead of using glue, I used painterstape. Way easier to refresh and easier to take prints off. I wanted to try kapton tape, but painterstape was good enough for now.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Manually leveling the bed to a better position also helped.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;(After edit) recalibrating my two z-axis motors.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the end, I think my bed has become a bit curved over time. So a final solution would be to print on a glass bed, but that was not really an option when using the SN04 sensor.&#xA;I am moving now to a BLTouch sensor + glass bed to make everything perfect again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: important note, I also put off bed heating. Since I am working with PLA, it was not really necessary. Doing this allowed me to use painterstape, otherwise it would 'fall off' eventually.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT2: I think I have thought of a better explanation. I am using an Anet A6 and it might be because the x-axis was not parallel to the plate. Meaning that my two z-axis stepper motors were not calibrated properly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14805" LastEditorUserId="14805" LastEditDate="2020-12-28T21:34:19.717" LastActivityDate="2020-12-28T21:34:19.717" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14730" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14731" CreationDate="2020-11-04T14:59:36.520" Score="1" ViewCount="587" Body="&lt;p&gt;Painters tape is a common quick fix to adhesion problems, and we know &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/9987/8884&quot;&gt;it doesn't need to be blue&lt;/a&gt;, but it is often recommended not to do. Why? When is painters tape best used or skipped upon?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastActivityDate="2020-11-05T19:49:51.103" Title="What are the pros and cons of Painters tape?" Tags="|adhesion|knowledgebase|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" CommunityOwnedDate="2020-11-06T06:54:27.673" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14731" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14730" CreationDate="2020-11-04T14:59:36.520" Score="2" Body="&lt;h1&gt;Read First&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Painters Tape does lift the print surface upwards by its thickness. This has to be accounted for in leveling the bed. Different Brands do have different thicknesses and thus need different leveling!&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Easy-peel tapes need to be &lt;strong&gt;avoided&lt;/strong&gt; as they don't stick to the surface!&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Pro&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Painters tape is cheap and easily available.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Laying down a painters tape without overlap is easy.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It is one of the best print surfaces for &lt;strong&gt;unheated&lt;/strong&gt; printers.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Cons&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Painter Tape needs to be refreshed regularly.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Weak glue on a painters tape might come off the bed.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rough-textured tape might stick to the print too good to be easily removed.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Some tapes do leave coloration on the prints.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cheap painter tapes can be hit-and-miss.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Heating painters tape degrades the glue on it, leading to adhesion failure and staining the actual print surface with residue. It is &lt;strong&gt;not advised&lt;/strong&gt; to use it &lt;strong&gt;with heated beds&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2020-11-05T19:49:51.103" LastActivityDate="2020-11-05T19:49:51.103" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2020-11-05T16:48:37.730" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14732" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14642" CreationDate="2020-11-04T16:05:13.077" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had a similar problem to you with my Ender-3 but now it is fine.&#xA;There are so many causes of under-extrusion that I doubt I can tell you what is specifically wrong in your case but perhaps I can give you some pointers.&#xA;In addition to what you have done, check if you can manually extrude the filament by releasing the grip on the filament (depress the lever on the feeder mechanism) and push the filament through with your hand (while the nozzle is heated to the correct temperature for your filament).&#xA;If that works well without too much force then it suggests one of two things:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;an issue with the feeder mechanism (e.g. worn or clogged up teeth on cogs, spring too tight or too weak) or&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;extrusion settings on your slicer need modification (e.g. your slicer made G-code with too frequent retractions and this causes the filament to wear down thin preventing the extruder feeder cogs from gripping it. A solution is to reduce the maximum number of retractions possible by altering your slicer settings - this was an important factor for getting my machine to work again).&#xA;I found the following YouTube video helpful in giving me pointer of where to start - perhaps it will help you too:&#xA;&lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/V7fxY62gTkw?start=0&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25188" LastActivityDate="2020-11-04T16:05:13.077" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14733" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-11-05T16:43:57.317" Score="4" ViewCount="19704" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am running an Ender 3 pro with an Octoprint connected. I accidentally set the print speed too slow in Cura and the print will take very long. Is there a Marlin command I can issue to the printer to speed it up without stopping the print?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="24911" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2020-11-06T15:26:59.227" LastActivityDate="2020-11-06T15:26:59.227" Title="Can I adjust print speed on the fly?" Tags="|marlin|creality-ender-3|octoprint|speed|skr-v1.4|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14734" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14733" CreationDate="2020-11-05T21:42:32.840" Score="3" Body="&lt;h1&gt;yes&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Print speed is a setting that can be altered by just turning the click-wheel of the Ender 3. You don't need to push it to gain access to menus. A turn to the right does increase the speed, left lowers it. It is applied only some moments after&#xA;stopping the turning - then the firmware does inject a &lt;code&gt;M220&lt;/code&gt; command as the next line. This means the current running movement is ended with the last set speed, the new speed is set and the following command will be done with the new speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As towe correctly states, one can also send a &lt;code&gt;M220&lt;/code&gt; command to the printer via a terminal, but then you need to have one set up &lt;em&gt;before&lt;/em&gt; the print starts, as plugging in a terminal will &lt;strong&gt;reset&lt;/strong&gt; your printer and abort the print!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2020-11-06T10:06:46.937" LastActivityDate="2020-11-06T10:06:46.937" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14735" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12009" CreationDate="2020-11-06T07:07:16.783" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;For things like a coat of arms, you do not require a full 3D conversion, essentially all you need is a lithograph-like effect. The best program I've found for such conversions is 3D Builder which is a free Microsoft download for windows users (yes, I was surprised too). It can use either color or degrees of greyscale shading to determine the z-axis depth of each region in the picture. Makes the cleanest conversion I've found so far. Exports as a .3mf file but can be readily converted to an .stl for 3D printing (using something like &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.swiftconverter.com/convert_3d&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;SwiftConverter&lt;/a&gt; for example). Also has an option to invert the conversion which I've found quite useful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25207" LastActivityDate="2020-11-06T07:07:16.783" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14736" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14733" CreationDate="2020-11-06T08:37:35.770" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can use the &lt;a href=&quot;https://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M220.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;code&gt;M220&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/a&gt; g-code like&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;code&gt;M220 S200&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;to speed up your print speed to 200%.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can simply enter this g-code command in OctoPrints &amp;quot;Terminal&amp;quot; tab at any time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13171" LastEditorUserId="13171" LastEditDate="2020-11-06T09:22:00.883" LastActivityDate="2020-11-06T09:22:00.883" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14737" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14753" CreationDate="2020-11-06T14:43:31.293" Score="0" ViewCount="4083" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've started assembling a Sapphire Plus CoreXY printer and produced a nice calibration cube (no layer shift, although a bit of over extrusion in the corner). Then, I started printing a 3D benchy, and got this:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0xg9M.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0xg9M.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Side view&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jSRnw.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jSRnw.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Top view&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've checked belt tension and it seems correct (I've printed &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2589577&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this belt gauge&lt;/a&gt; with another printer and checked that both belts are tensionned the same), with a bass sound when pluked.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've checked both Z-axis lead screw and it's not 100% perfect (one lead screw has a 1mm deviation on one side when rolled over my desk). When the bed goes down, the effect of the lead screw is only visible when the bed is half the height or more, so it shouldn't matter here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, I had multiple filament breaking before entering the extruder in other prints, so I'm not 100% confident with the extruder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The machine is a Core XY printer with a Bowden extruder, with linear rails for all axis, and 2 lead screws for Z axis (and 2 stepper motors attached by the same belt). It's level, on a concrete base.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25212" LastEditorUserId="25212" LastEditDate="2020-11-09T09:53:06.793" LastActivityDate="2020-11-09T09:53:06.793" Title="Layer Shift with a new CoreXY printer" Tags="|print-quality|corexy|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14738" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14751" CreationDate="2020-11-06T20:23:45.707" Score="1" ViewCount="745" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Creality CR-10S Pro V2, I've been printing regularly for one month and then, suddenly, I started to notice &lt;em&gt;waves&lt;/em&gt; on the Z axis. They're already noticeable with the test cube but deviation increases with the height and objects are ruined (eSUN Gray PETG 20 mm test cube, printed at VERY low speed):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aK4YA.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aK4YA.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;PET test cube&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It was my first attempt to print with PETG then I thought that could be the problem, I cleaned the nozzle (also using eSUN cleaning filament) and switched back to PLA+. The problem is even more evident (eSUN cold white PLA+):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Cakat.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Cakat.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;PLA+ test cubes&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note how the &amp;quot;wave&amp;quot; pattern matches between the two test cubes. Even if I was printing from less than a month (and &amp;quot;just&amp;quot; 5/6 hours per day, not every day) I thought it might be time for some maintenance:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I fully cleaned the printer.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I checked all the belts.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I checked all the nuts &amp;amp; bolts. A few were loose, including those 4 that &amp;quot;attaches&amp;quot; the horizontal rail (the one that holds the extruder) to the Z axis threaded rods. Loose enough I could screw them with my bare hands (including those two at the left side which are hidden deep inside and they're a pain to reach with tools even removing a the cover).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I fully cleaned the rods and applied lubricant again.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've got this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FhJ0u.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FhJ0u.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;second PLA test cube&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I then moved the printer to the ground and tried again, it helped (possibly a lot) and printing PLA I get a cube almost like the PETG one in the first picture.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I noticed the both threaded rods have some freedom of movement in the Y direction (not the rod itself but the bearing ball they go through at the very top of the printer can move within its plastic enclosure); 0.5/1 mm for the left rod and 1.5/2 mm for the right rod. I don't know if it's an allowed tolerance or the sign that something is wrong (and what).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Searching on-line I read as many opinions as many posts I can find; I wouldn't go and buy replacement parts until I randomly solve the problem. It's frustrating enough to have to deal with it (and a huge amount of material wasted in failed prints and tests) after less than one month of activity...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update&lt;/strong&gt;: I &lt;em&gt;secured&lt;/em&gt; the two rods using two 0.2 metallic &lt;em&gt;feelers&lt;/em&gt; and nothing changed. I still have this shift within the first centimetre (it &lt;em&gt;changes&lt;/em&gt; position but it does not go away).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update 2&lt;/strong&gt;: everything seems perfectly square (I can't swear this for the rods), cleaned and tight. Everything moves smoothly, and both bed and horizontal bar are fairly leveled. Effect is slightly less noticeable but obviously present.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One concerning point: travel speed was 150 mm/s, if I slow down to 130 mm/s then I can see a slightly less sloped shift; that makes me think that something could be vibrating when moving: top and bottom seem straight and they're printed at a much lower speed (20 mm/s vs 50 mm/s for PLA+, 20 mm/s - 15 mm/s for first layer - vs 30 mm/s for the test cube in PETG; travel speed was 150 mm/s for all of them). I guess that to reduce the printing speed to 10 mm/s for the entire object might help but I wouldn't call it a solution...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25217" LastEditorUserId="25217" LastEditDate="2020-11-08T13:20:43.560" LastActivityDate="2020-11-08T20:52:31.417" Title="Wave shift pattern on the Z axis" Tags="|z-axis|creality-cr-10|layer-shifting|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14741" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-11-07T12:23:12.393" Score="0" ViewCount="8806" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am trying to port Marlin to my Qidi Tech 1 printer which previously ran Sailfish 7.8. Everything worked fine on the old board, including the temperature sensors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All cables except for power, LCD, and USB (for flashing) are disconnected. I am still very early on in testing and have yet to plug anything else in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When uploading Marlin to the board, at first startup I received the following error:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Err: MAXTEMP: E1&#xA;&#xA;PRINTER HALTED&#xA;Please Reset&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There may be a problem with my configuration. So I commented out all of the thermal runaway protection options since the bed and extruders aren't yet connected:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;//#define THERMAL_PROTECTION_HOTENDS&#xA;//#define THERMAL_PROTECTION_BED&#xA;//#define THERMAL_PROTECTION_CHAMBER&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I rebuilt, flashed, reset, and the printer is still telling me that E1 is at MAXTEMP.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why am I still getting this thermal protection message?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I cleared the EEPROM from the LCD menu in Sailfish before flashing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This board uses an ATmega2560 and I'm using the default fuses (E:FD, H:D8, L:FF, LOCK:CF).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23492" LastEditorUserId="23492" LastEditDate="2020-11-07T12:32:17.650" LastActivityDate="2020-12-13T00:53:48.457" Title="&quot;Err: MAXTEMP: E1&quot; when THERMAL_PROTECTION_HOTENDS is disabled" Tags="|marlin|firmware|thermal-runaway|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14742" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14750" CreationDate="2020-11-07T15:37:46.803" Score="0" ViewCount="58" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm porting Marlin to my Qidi Tech 1 and I'm trying to figure out what part this is. The markings on it read &amp;quot;AAJU&amp;quot;. I'm pretty sure its the digital pot to adjust the stepper drivers as there isn't a small adjustable pot on them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pj1wE.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23492" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2020-11-08T10:08:59.993" LastActivityDate="2020-11-08T10:38:52.803" Title="Which digipot is this with the markings &quot;AAJU&quot;" Tags="|marlin|firmware|stepper-driver|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14743" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3112" CreationDate="2020-11-07T16:30:44.447" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The accepted answer didn't work for me. Everything received on the serial port was repeated back to the serial port, sending the printer into a confusing loop. There is more information about that in this answer: &lt;a href=&quot;https://unix.stackexchange.com/questions/42964/unexpected-results-testing-serial-loopback-using-echo-and-cat&quot;&gt;https://unix.stackexchange.com/questions/42964/unexpected-results-testing-serial-loopback-using-echo-and-cat&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The key is to use a command like this to prevent certain line termination characters from repeating themselves: &lt;code&gt;stty 115200 -F /dev/ttyUSB0 -echo -onlcr &lt;/code&gt;, where 115200 is your baud rate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is what I did:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;# 1. plug in printer&#xA;sudo chmod +777 /dev/ttyUSB0 # 2. allow access to printer USB permissions, add user to dialout or tty is better&#xA;stty 115200 -F /dev/ttyUSB0 -echo -onlcr # 3. set serial port baud rate, might be 250000 for you&#xA;cat -v &amp;lt; /dev/ttyUSB0 # 4. get printer output &#xA;&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then in a new terminal:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;   echo &amp;quot;M119&amp;quot; &amp;gt;&amp;gt; /dev/ttyUSB0&#xA;&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This will give you a real console.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10369" LastActivityDate="2020-11-07T16:30:44.447" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14745" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15758" CreationDate="2020-11-07T23:55:52.110" Score="2" ViewCount="239" Body="&lt;p&gt;Assuming a Cartesian printer with a belt and smooth rod design in which one axis moves another (i.e. the X-axis rails 'sit' on the Y-axis rails), what are the main considerations in sizing the rods and belts?  For example, given a base design using 8 mm diameter rods and 6 mm belts (assume these are the limiting factors of the printer and that the frame, etc. can handle whatever you throw at it), what is roughly the maximum load, print speed and build size that this should be expected to support?  If you were to increase the rod diameters to 10 mm or even 12 mm on one or both axes (assume the steppers could handle the increased load), what would the increased rigidity buy you in terms of maximum speed and/or build size and would 6 mm belts still be appropriate?  Ballpark calculations or rules of thumb are fine as I understand the variables are likely not trivial and am looking more for a rough range of guidance to understand the trade-offs involved.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25234" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-02-25T07:15:54.517" LastActivityDate="2021-02-28T11:35:34.380" Title="Sizing belts and rods for a Cartesian printer" Tags="|diy-3d-printer|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14746" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5641" CreationDate="2020-11-08T00:23:59.717" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The pitch no matter the screw is the distance between the threads. The lead can be different based on a one or two start threads.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25235" LastActivityDate="2020-11-08T00:23:59.717" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14748" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-11-08T02:14:33.557" Score="2" ViewCount="175" Body="&lt;p&gt;So, I recently installed an inductive sensor to my 3D printer for auto bed levelling and now I'm stuck on Z probe offset as it doesn't seem to do much apart from changing number is given on display for the Z-axis. On tutorials that I watched, after Z homing, the print head lifted and allowed to set Z offset but my 3D printer doesn't do the same thing as in the tutorial. I'm not sure if its a problem in Marlin or a physical issue with my 3D printer. If anyone can help me I will be thankful as I'm stuck on this issue for a few days now. Also how far above the nozzle should the sensor be for it to work and not wipe off the 3D prints.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My 3D printer is a Creality Ender 3, glass bed, SKR 1.4 with Marlin 2.0.x firmware and an inductive sensor (LJ18A3-8-Z/BX-5V).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25237" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-11-08T07:25:42.937" LastActivityDate="2020-11-08T07:25:42.937" Title="X axis doesn't lift after levelling" Tags="|marlin|creality-ender-3|z-probe|inductive-sensor|skr-v1.4|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14749" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14748" CreationDate="2020-11-08T03:14:52.747" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I discovered something which could be the answer to the problem, in Marlin compiling there is:&#xA;&lt;code&gt;//#define Z_AFTER_PROBING           2 // Z position after probing is done&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You have to uncomment it and change number 2 to how many millimeters you want it to be above the 3D printer bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25237" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-11-08T07:17:07.140" LastActivityDate="2020-11-08T07:17:07.140" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14750" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14742" CreationDate="2020-11-08T10:08:45.183" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The picture shows, that the marked chip is next to the letters &lt;code&gt;U8&lt;/code&gt; to &lt;code&gt;U12&lt;/code&gt;. U is commonly used for &lt;a href=&quot;https://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/25308/what-do-the-pcb-markings-mean&quot;&gt;Ineparable Assembies&lt;/a&gt;, but there are several meanings possible according to the &lt;a href=&quot;http://standards.ieee.org/findstds/standard/315-1975.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;ANSI/IEEE Std 315 (1975)&lt;/a&gt;. So, let's assume for the moment that this is &lt;code&gt;Assembly 8&lt;/code&gt; to 12.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that the X-pot is marked to be down on the right side of each section, right under the sockets, and next to &lt;code&gt;R103&lt;/code&gt; to &lt;code&gt;R107&lt;/code&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Marking AAJU might belong, according to &lt;a href=&quot;http://chip.tomsk.ru/chip/chipdoc.nsf/vc1!readform&amp;amp;view=smd&amp;amp;cat=A&amp;amp;start=5001&amp;amp;count=500&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this reference&lt;/a&gt;, to two chips. Both are &lt;em&gt;Voltage uP Supervisory Circuit&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;AAJU  MAX6339AUT    MAX6339  SOT23-6  Quad Voltage uP Supervisory Circuit&#xA;AAJU  MAX6726KASYD3 MAX6726  SOT23-8  Triple Ultra-Low-Voltage uP Supervisory Circuit&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The pinout and look of the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.datasheetdir.com/MAX6339+Microprocessor-Supervisors&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;first chip&lt;/a&gt; is very much in line with what I see from the photo:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.datasheetdir.com/MAX6339+Microprocessor-Supervisors&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jRyFy.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KeR25.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KeR25.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sadly, neither a user manual for the board nor the pinout of it seems to be available at the time. My best guess based on these facts is, that it is the Quad Voltage supervisory chip, as the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.datasheetdir.com/MAX6726+Microprocessor-Supervisors&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;MAX6726 has 8 legs&lt;/a&gt;, as the &lt;code&gt;-8&lt;/code&gt; in the entry &lt;code&gt;SOT23-8&lt;/code&gt; indicates.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2020-11-08T10:38:52.803" LastActivityDate="2020-11-08T10:38:52.803" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14751" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14738" CreationDate="2020-11-08T20:52:31.417" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is classic Layer Shift in the Y plane. This happens in one of three cases:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Belt too loose&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Belt too tight&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bed movement hindered&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The belt should ring and resonate when tapped, giving a nice tune. I haven't really &lt;em&gt;tuned&lt;/em&gt; mines, but my ender3 (250 mm bed movement in total) has about a G major.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bed movement should be, with motors off, easy and smooth. If there are spots where it hangs, you might need to rearrange cabling or check if there is a bad spot on the linear motion system. If the movement is hard, you might need to lessen the pressure. Since the CR10 is pretty much the same as the ender3, the eccentric nuts should be turned so the bed does not wobble or move side to side but not to a degree the friction slows the movement. Carefully tweak here, use increments of about 10° till the layer shift vanishes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Be careful where you place your printer: cabling can snag on other items or things can brush onto the bed. That should not happen. On the Z-axis it can unplug the X-axis motors and extruder, or in worst case, yank at the heater cartridge and damage it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastActivityDate="2020-11-08T20:52:31.417" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14753" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14737" CreationDate="2020-11-09T09:08:10.707" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Shifts in a diagonal direction in CoreXY indicate loss of synch between the two belts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it's the belt very loose skipping, you may not hear much but such a loose belt is easy to notice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it's the belt a bit loose skipping, you would hear relatively loud noises which make very clear what's happening.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If there are no particular noises, it's the motor skipping steps. One motor move along the X+Y diagonal, one along the X-Y diagonal, so you know which one it is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have missed steps it could be because of excessive friction (maybe one motor is mounted tilted, or it is damaged), or because of excessive acceleration setting, which the motor cannot handle, or because of too low current.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you decide to increase the current be aware that it may work on simple tests, but during longer prints the stepper driver may overheat and lose steps for self protection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To check what acceleration and/or current you actually need per each motor and to compare whether motors are significantly different from each other, try this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Without printing, you set the maximum acceleration relatively high (5000 mm/s^2).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Place a paper square (relatively big) on the printing area, parallel to the axes and tape it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Align the printing head to one corner of the paper square.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Give a G0 command to move the printing head to the opposite corner of the square (G0 F600 X... Y...) and check that the alignment is correct. Also, only one motor should be moving.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bring back the head to the opposite corner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Set the feed rate to high values, like F9000 (150 mm/s) and move the head again. If it reaches the correct spot, the current of the motor is sufficient for that acceleration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Try for the other diagonal of the square you taped to test the other motor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can now reduce the current of the motors which successfully passed the test. If you have Klipper it's super easy and requires only the command &amp;quot;SET_TMC_CURRENT STEPPER=name CURRENT=amps&amp;quot;, with Marlin I don't know.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See at what current each stepper fails the test, then decide whether to reduce the acceleration (5000 mm/s^2 is anyway probably too high for your printer frame, you would get artifacts like ringing) or to dial back up the current. I would say that 20% above the current required to pass the test is enough. More than that and you are just overheating the TMC2008.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2338" LastActivityDate="2020-11-09T09:08:10.707" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14757" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-11-09T20:54:10.073" Score="1" ViewCount="243" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am having some issues where I am seeing small jagged lines on the final inner walls of G-code generated by Cura, is there anything I can do to try and reduce this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am seeing both jagged circles as well as stitching? between some perimeters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think this is caused by some interaction between trying to print the top surface of the model and the walls.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/q97B9.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/q97B9.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Below the red line roughly shows where these are occurring in my model.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/r0ycg.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/r0ycg.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have tried both Cura 4.7 &amp;amp; 4.8 does anyone have suggestions on what I can do to help get rid of these artifacts, or should I not worry about them, I am just concerned about them affecting the strength of my print as this is an engineering component.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25257" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-02-24T22:40:38.177" LastActivityDate="2021-02-24T22:40:38.177" Title="Jagged circles while slicing in Cura" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14758" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-11-09T22:32:28.233" Score="1" ViewCount="958" Body="&lt;p&gt;My 3D prints shift along the Y-axis on my Ender 3 3D printer. I don't know what to do. My Y-axis belt is tight, So I don't think that is the problem...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zVtPS.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Y-axis layer shifting&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zVtPS.png&quot; alt=&quot;Y-axis layer shifting&quot; title=&quot;Y-axis layer shifting&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23125" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-11-09T22:52:51.167" LastActivityDate="2023-01-09T16:01:50.283" Title="Y-axis layer shifting on my Ender 3" Tags="|creality-ender-3|quality|layer-shifting|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14759" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14758" CreationDate="2020-11-09T22:58:47.753" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Check for wobble in the X gantry and Y gantry also your Y-axis belt should vibrate like a snare when you pull it and let go. Same goes for your X-axis belt. If that doesn't work see if going back to Cura 4.6 helps (it did for me) and lower your acceleration in Cura (advanced settings movement).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25258" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-11-11T09:01:27.137" LastActivityDate="2020-11-11T09:01:27.137" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14761" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13382" CreationDate="2020-11-10T01:47:36.657" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;i've expirenced this a few times and just using my expirence from machining i narrowed it down to a few factors that changing fixed. #1 hot end temp, #2 axis speed, #3 filament feed rate. by playing with these settings i tend to find a happy medium with what im printing. it takes running a few set up pieces but with trial and error you can find a working point for your machine vs recommended settings. no two printers are ever the same just like no two CNC centers are ever the same. the jamming of the extruder usually is feeding too much material into the unit for its temp or it gettinng clogged at points by a bad bed level. If prints still come out ok, its pushing too much in IMO.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25260" LastActivityDate="2020-11-10T01:47:36.657" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14762" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-11-10T05:02:00.617" Score="2" ViewCount="3241" Body="&lt;p&gt;For my Ender 3 Pro I bought this touch sensor set &lt;a href=&quot;https://tr.aliexpress.com/item/4001209045993.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.68ea4c4d3CjwfW&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Chinese clone BLTouch set&lt;/a&gt; and changed the printer's firmware to the latest TH3D firmware (first I tried with Creality's original BLTouch firmware but after 4 hours, I never managed to set a correct Z offset, I believe there is a bug or this BLTouch clone isn't compatible with Creality firmware).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After installing TH3D, found the right Z offset, when I print items like &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3476490&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this one&lt;/a&gt; which stays at the center everything just perfect it sticks well, no strings, strong lines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But if I try to print something &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2973856&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;like this&lt;/a&gt; which is using almost all the printing table from corner to corner (I need to rotate the print  45° to fit onto the build platform), it's good on center or near to center but not sticking on the corners and first lines are sticking to nozzle (because at the far corners, the nozzle is too far or too close) and makes a mess.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I powered off the printer and adjusted the good old way (with a paper) and re-setted the Z offset accordingly but the result is the same.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to my research some peoples advised you need to add &lt;code&gt;G29&lt;/code&gt; after &lt;code&gt;G28&lt;/code&gt; to your G-code to get proper solution, I added the code in Cura. When I try adding &lt;code&gt;G29&lt;/code&gt;, the printer starts leveling after starting printing, but the &amp;quot;not sticking problem at the corners&amp;quot; still continues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried with both magnetic bed &amp;amp; glass bed, but nothing helped. I was using 200 °C for the nozzle and 60nbsp;°C for the bed, printing speed is 50nbsp;mm/s with Standart quality 0.2nbsp;mm, retraction enabled, mostly using 10nbsp;% infill on my models.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I thougt maybe filament causes this problem, changed filament to another roll but not helped, I also have an Ender 3 V2 (no BLTouch) and tried same model, same filament, same settings on V2 printed perfectly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is how my bed looks like according to OctoPrint bed visualizer plugin;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/u8YQH.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/u8YQH.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've watched many tutorial videos and some said you need to adjust your bed with spirit level to make sure it's flat, I even did that and it is just perfectly flat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've installed the BLTouch clone 1 week ago and I'm struggling with this problem since then, I believe I'm missing something very obvious or making a realy simple mistake because many people use touch sensors and they are all happy with auto bed leveling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25262" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-11-11T08:16:24.087" LastActivityDate="2020-11-11T08:37:31.003" Title="Ender 3 PRO BLTouch V2 perfect on center with small prints but fails on corners or big prints" Tags="|creality-ender-3|bed|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14764" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-11-10T09:43:02.427" Score="1" ViewCount="76" Body="&lt;p&gt;I watched many clips showing printing of an articulated elephant model (e.g. &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xeYPL1SUAjc&amp;amp;t=3s&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IzYmEpxOHtM&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt;). It seems that those printed elephants can move their legs straight out of the printer without any effort to force the leg to move.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I try printing the exact same elephant model using Creator Pro 2 in the default setting. After finished, the legs of the resulting elephant model stick with its trunk. I have to apply a very strong force to initially move its legs (which almost breaks the bridge between its legs).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, I wondered if my Creator Pro 2 can print perfectly and readily movable elephant. What setting should I apply to achieve this result?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25265" LastActivityDate="2020-11-10T09:43:02.427" Title="How to print &quot;readily movable&quot; articulated elephant using Creator Pro 2?" Tags="|flashforge-creator|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14765" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14762" CreationDate="2020-11-10T12:29:28.473" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would suggest you read &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.reddit.com/r/ender3/comments/jdd2nf/for_some_reason_my_bltouch_isnt_working_quite_as/g9amvfn/?context=3&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt;, even tho it's a different mainboard it may help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next to that you should level the bed the old fashion way first with a paper on the 4 outer corners, it is essential that you do this because ABL can only compensate so much when printing. After that set the Z-offset using a paper and run some bed adhesion test prints and use babysteps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Level and probe your bed with it being heated up to 60 °C for PLA and 80 °C for PETG, the thermal expansion of the bed can easily mess up the probe data you already have!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also make sure your ABL functions as Z-endstop; it solved all the issues for me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;If you ever want to upgrade your mainboard for some reason I can highly recommend the SKR mini E3 V2 it has great support for additional sensors.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25258" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-11-11T08:37:31.003" LastActivityDate="2020-11-11T08:37:31.003" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14766" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14762" CreationDate="2020-11-10T18:09:25.940" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Following &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/14765/5740&quot;&gt;Nathan's&lt;/a&gt; answer, I've solved my problem with Nathan's suggestions and the method in  &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W8ouBPnRV4s&amp;amp;ab_channel=cheule&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this video&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I did?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Flashed Creality's original BLTouch firmware to printer&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Heated up bed to 60 °C&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Leveled bed the old fashion way first, but with slight resistance (you don't have to level perfectly)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Followed the youtube method to find proper Z offset&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Opened Cura, Settings-&amp;gt;Printer-&amp;gt;Manage Printers: and added &lt;code&gt;G29; ABL&lt;/code&gt; after &lt;code&gt;G28&lt;/code&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dpOtR.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dpOtR.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Voilâ, now your printer prints perfectly! Enjoying the relieving after 1 week of struggling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25262" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-11-11T08:34:01.567" LastActivityDate="2020-11-11T08:34:01.567" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14767" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-11-10T18:14:44.253" Score="0" ViewCount="308" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking for a methodology to easily measure/evaluate Z positioning accuracy, using equipment on hand or easily obtainable such as a high-precision digital caliper. In particular I want to be able to evaluate whether steps (actual motor steps, or some other chosen unit of increment) are uniformly the nominal step height, or whether some are larger than others, and if so whether the irregularity is reproducible. Has anyone worked out a way to attach a caliper or equivalent measurement device sufficiently rigidly to both a fixed point and a moving-in-Z point (e.g. the bed and the gantry on a typical cartesian machine) that the magnitude of individual steps can be read off? Or maybe a high precision laser range finder/interferometer solution is more appropriate, but I'm not sure about cost/availability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I ask this in the context of recurring concerns about a common overconstained Z axis design (Ender 3 and nearly everything else with V rollers), but this question is intended to be about measuring not mitigations/fixes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd also be interested in opinions on the necessary measurement precision for this measurement to be meaningful. Almost surely errors as small as 5% of the layer height will lead to some visual surface inconsistency, XY dimensional accuracy problems, and weak points for part to break at, which you'd need 10 micro resolution for 0.2 mm layers to see, but I suspect the reality is much worse for lots of printers and even 20 micron resolution or worse might aid in making serious improvements.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastEditorUserId="11157" LastEditDate="2020-11-10T18:22:17.077" LastActivityDate="2020-11-11T21:50:39.267" Title="Measuring Z positioning accuracy" Tags="|z-axis|dimensional-accuracy|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14768" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14767" CreationDate="2020-11-10T18:40:35.363" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;What you ask is probably not easily doable: you want to measure distances with no more than 1 micron error!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1 micron because assuming 2 mm leadscrew pitch and full steps only, you have 100 full steps per mm (10 microns per step). With 10% error at most you need to measure 1 micron.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What you can do is avoiding measuring distances and rather measure angles to verify that angles are at least equally spaced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Place a mirror on the shaft of the stepper motor and align a laser and a paper sheet so that the laser reflects on the mirror and reaches a known position on the paper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then mark the position of the spot after each step and, with trigonometry, you can calculate the real angle movement per step.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will need to repeat the alignment every time the laser gets outside the surface of the paper, but you can also use a wall if you prefer. In any case, to cover 360° you need at least 200 measurements...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And obviously take into account measurement errors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2338" LastActivityDate="2020-11-10T18:40:35.363" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14769" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-11-10T18:44:42.233" Score="1" ViewCount="1286" Body="&lt;p&gt;A typical line of (depositing) G-code seems to set a maximum speed (&lt;code&gt;F&lt;/code&gt;), a new position to move to (&lt;code&gt;X&lt;/code&gt;, &lt;code&gt;Y&lt;/code&gt;, &lt;code&gt;Z&lt;/code&gt;) and a new extrusion distance (giving a filament distance for the move). The &lt;code&gt;F&lt;/code&gt; is common for the line of code, and I understand gives a maximum for the &lt;code&gt;XYZE&lt;/code&gt; combined speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is: &amp;quot;How is the extrusion rate synchronised to the movement distance and speed?&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The G-code doesn't seem to have enough information to deal with this, but I've tried looking at a Marlin configuration file and don't see anything obvious there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To take a really basic example: A 30 mm long single filament, layer height 0.2 mm and width 0.4 mm. A basic slicer will assume 0.2x0.4x30 mm³ total volume, but for each mm of travel you want 0.2x0.4x1 mm³ to be extruded. How is it ensured that this happens regardless of travel speed, without say more being extruded in the first half of travel than the second or vice versa?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It feels like this is dealt with somewhere in the firmware but I don't know where to look. A 'worked' example for a desktop printer or as much detail as you dare would be absolutely perfect. If it helps, I am generally using either an ANet A8 or Ultimaker 3 with the CURA slicer using Marlin-based firmware.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14514" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-12-10T21:20:35.300" LastActivityDate="2020-12-10T21:20:35.300" Title="How is the extrusion rate matched to the movement speed?" Tags="|marlin|ultimaker-cura|firmware|extrusion|fdm|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14770" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14769" CreationDate="2020-11-10T21:00:32.323" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure what you mean by &amp;quot;XYZE combined speed&amp;quot;, but I wonder if it's the same misconception as in &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/14668/details-of-marlins-feedrate-calculation&quot;&gt;Details of Marlin&amp;#39;s feedrate calculation&lt;/a&gt;. The feedrate is a regular 3-dimensional velocity in XYZ space which is the maximum rate the printer will attempt to achieve, subject to individual axis feedrate limits (including E) and acceleration profiles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In any case, the simple answer your question of how the E-axis motion is synchronized with motion in space is no different from how motion along the X-axis is synchronized with motion along the Y-axis. If X and Y motion were just allowed to take place independently up to the desired speed, with no constraint that they happen in step with one another, then the path the print head traveled would not be a straight line but (ideally) the junction of one horizontal or vertical line with one diagonal one or (with acceleration profiles applied) some approximation of that by curves. But of course the X and Y motions do take place in sync with one another. Each spatial coordinate during the move is a function of time computed by the &amp;quot;planner&amp;quot; logic in the printer firmware based (essentially) on the ratio of the magnitude of individual components of the move to the overall length of the move and speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In traditional firmware prior to &lt;a href=&quot;https://marlinfw.org/docs/features/lin_advance.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Linear Advance&lt;/a&gt;, the E axis is synchronized exactly the same, according to the ratio of the move completed to the whole and the total amount to be extruded. With Linear Advance, that's adjusted by an offset proportional to the current baseline (before applying LA) extrusion speed, to compensate for the filament being compressible and/or its travel path (e.g. a bowden tube) being elastic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2020-11-10T21:00:32.323" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14771" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-11-10T21:39:52.270" Score="0" ViewCount="1040" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bricked my Tevo Tarantula's controller board, and I've decided to just replace it rather than unbrick it because they are relatively cheap. I recently bought a new MKS GEN L v1.0 board, but I've been unable to flash new firmware onto it. Every time I go to upload the firmware, I get an error just as it begins to upload, saying:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;&amp;quot;failed to send command to serial port does not exist or is not connected&amp;quot;&#xA;&#xA;avrdude: stk500v2_ReceiveMessage(): timeout&#xA;&#xA;avrdude: ser_send(): write error: sorry no info avail&#xA;&#xA;avrdude: stk500_send(): failed to send command to serial port&#xA;&#xA;avrdude: ser_recv(): read error: The handle is invalid.&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;avrdude: stk500v2_ReceiveMessage(): timeout&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;avrdude: stk500v2_getsync(): timeout communicating with programmer&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas of what the issue could be? I've tried both the USB ports on my computer and using a USB 2.0 hub (I believe my computer ports are both USB 3.0). I've also made sure that I had the correct port selected in Marlin (1.1.8.13).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also think that its worth mentioning that my bricked board and new board seem to appear differently in the device manager&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bricked:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ex7ZK.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ex7ZK.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While my new board appears as this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TWYoP.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TWYoP.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The new board also seems to &amp;quot;cut-out&amp;quot; when I first connect it to my computer as well. In the device manager, my computer will indicate that an unknown device is connected, then it will quickly disconnect and disappear, only to reconnect and reappear as pictured above.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do you guys think there is a hardware issue with the motherboard? Thanks for your help, this is giving me quite the headache!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20467" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-11-11T10:18:11.683" LastActivityDate="2020-11-11T14:03:52.700" Title="Unable to upload firmware to a new motherboard" Tags="|diy-3d-printer|firmware|usb|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14772" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14767" CreationDate="2020-11-10T22:35:36.457" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the world of hobbyist milling machines, a DRO accessory is extremely valuable for improving work flow and accuracy of project builds. The Digital Read Out devices run the gamut from affordable to astonishingly expensive and cover one, two and three axis readouts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For single axis purposes, some hobbyists will simply find a means to attach a digital caliper, as you've suggested, to the machine with appropriately fabricated brackets. That's one option. For a few dollars more, there are off-the-shelf digital read-outs, such as this one from &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B01G4FQI64&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Amazon&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VToWb.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VToWb.png&quot; alt=&quot;single axis DRO&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Six, twelve and twenty-four inch travel options are available with the pictured six inch unit priced at US$39.95, a reasonable figure for 0.01 mm accuracy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One can purchase pricier models with higher resolution if required.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Brackets included with the device may not fit well to your application and may require modification.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some DRO devices, such as the one installed on my mini-mill, use physical contact (gears) to read the position information, which means friction and loading of your printer. Other models use micro-engraved glass scales and have minimal friction, but will likely be a bit more expensive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastEditorUserId="854" LastEditDate="2020-11-11T21:50:39.267" LastActivityDate="2020-11-11T21:50:39.267" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14773" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14771" CreationDate="2020-11-11T02:48:24.553" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your new board may have a counterfeit FT232R USB-to-serial interface chip, and the Windows update channel has installed hobbled FTDI drivers that won't work with counterfeit chips. The use of counterfeit FT232R chips is very common with budget 3D printer controllers, and FTDI are trying to discourage their use. Because of this, a lot of manufacturers have switched to using the CH340 chip, which does not suffer from this problem, and it looks like your old board used a CH340 chip. Try deleting the device and its drivers, and then installing the Windows setup executable from the following website:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.ftdichip.com/Drivers/VCP.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.ftdichip.com/Drivers/VCP.htm&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The 2.12.28 drivers will work with counterfeit chips.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3953" LastEditorUserId="3953" LastEditDate="2020-11-11T03:10:23.073" LastActivityDate="2020-11-11T03:10:23.073" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14774" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7786" CreationDate="2020-11-11T03:57:58.063" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.publicknowledge.org/files/What%27s%20the%20Deal%20with%20Copyright_%20Final%20version2.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Weinberg, 2013&lt;/a&gt;, artistic works are copyrightable:  if you're printing an action figure or such a useless pretty piece of art, it's protected by copyright.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For utilitarian things, the copyrightable portion must be severable:  if you're printing a video game controller with an artistic design drawn upon its case—not an artistic shape, but a design that could be lifted from the surface and applied as a separate artistic display—then that design is protected, and the controller that happens to be an aesthetically-pleasing shape is not (i.e. you could wipe away the design details and have the blunt shape of the thing and that would not be protected).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Purely-utilitarian things are not copyrightable.  If you're printing a lamp or a cup holder or whatnot, there are no rights to extend over that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is important:  copyright allows you to make decisions about what rights you will extend.  If you don't have the right to copyright, you can't simply slap a license on something and assert you do in fact have that right.  CC-NC licensing prevents you from making a derivative or a collection &lt;em&gt;and selling it&lt;/em&gt;, but there is no right to the printed object upon which to extend to the user the right to sell the printed object.  That means, conversely, that there is no right to the printed object to prohibit the user from selling it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That actually creates some odd situations, e.g. CC-BY doesn't apply, either.  You can't strip the author's name off the file and pass it off as your own, but you don't have to credit them for the physical object.  It is, however, potentially asinine to do that.  Even that can be a judgment call:  it's likely socially-acceptable to print e.g. an ABS gear for a particular machine that strips its ABS gears and sell a repair kit without crediting whoever posted it on Thingaverse; but if somebody made a more unique object, such as a fancy planter for house plants, it might not be copyrightable as an &lt;em&gt;object&lt;/em&gt;, but it's certainly not a copy of a gear that goes into a machine and is instead a &lt;em&gt;unique&lt;/em&gt; creation of the user who created it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25280" LastActivityDate="2020-11-11T03:57:58.063" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14776" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14771" CreationDate="2020-11-11T06:30:21.017" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your motherboard is not an MKS GEN L v1.0, it's a &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/makerbase-mks/Datasheet/blob/master/English%20datasheet/MKS%20SGen%20Datasheet.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;MKS SGEN L&lt;/a&gt; - unfortunately, a very very naming scheme.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your board is actually a &lt;strong&gt;32-bit board&lt;/strong&gt;, and must therefore be flashed with Marlin 2.0, built for the 32-bit board.&#xA;The firmware is then updated by placing it on the SD card and restarting the board, as explained in the &lt;a href=&quot;https://marlinfw.org/docs/basics/install_platformio_vscode.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;documentation for Marlin here&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13171" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2020-11-11T14:03:52.700" LastActivityDate="2020-11-11T14:03:52.700" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14778" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13876" CreationDate="2020-11-11T17:17:39.273" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;750 W at 120 V is around 6.3 A.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can use a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.calculator.net/voltage-drop-calculator.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;voltage drop calculator&lt;/a&gt;  to find out how much power is lost in the wires, and therefore their temperature increase.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did it for you. With 10 feet (2x5 feet) 20AWG wire and 6 A current, 7 W are dissipated on the wires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's 0.7 W/foot which is ok for silicone wires, also because the bed doesn't operate at 100% except for the initial heating up (and then the heat goes to the air around, which is fine anyway).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you use &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.is-rayfast.com/news/wire-cable/temperature-rise-by-current/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;another website&lt;/a&gt;, you can see that 20 AWG with 6 A current produces, in free air, around 10 degrees temperature increase. Silicone insulation will worsen that, but silicone holds well over 100 °C...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Use thicker wires if you can, or go on if you cannot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The most important thing is to very effectively join the two, so that no extra resistance is introduced. I would place them next to each other and physically solder them. Then heat shrink tube around the joint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See for info what not to use for the joining&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/unxEdyW8RP8?start=0&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2338" LastActivityDate="2020-11-11T17:17:39.273" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14780" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-11-12T04:49:48.620" Score="1" ViewCount="1051" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am running test prints on a new Sainsmart Kumitsu KL-9, a large hobby-market resin printer with a price/volume hard to beat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had two of the test prints detach from the printing plate and fall into the vat. Standard settings are in place:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BieW7.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BieW7.png&quot; alt=&quot;Chitu Slicer settings&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am using a &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B081YMD1GN&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;pitch black Elegoo resin&lt;/a&gt;. Does black resin generally require thinner slicing, or longer exposure times? The bottle recommends 60s and 8s, matching the default settings for the printer...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Suggestions appreciated!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2493" LastEditorUserId="2493" LastEditDate="2020-11-16T22:03:51.570" LastActivityDate="2020-11-16T22:03:51.570" Title="Different exposure time for black resin?" Tags="|resin|sainsmart-kumitsu-kl9|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14781" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14741" CreationDate="2020-11-12T07:54:11.197" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;#define THERMAL_PROTECTION_HOTENDS is for thermal runaway. When the temperature &amp;quot;should&amp;quot; be climbing or falling at a predicable rate, or holding steady once at running temp.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;#define HEATER_0_MAXTEMP defines the maximum temperature Marlin will allow the extruder to get to before initiating a shutdown. This is ALWAYS active for an active extruder (E0) This setting is what will throw MAXTEMP if it is exceeded.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;MAXTEMP error when there is no heat on is usually from a short in the thermistor cable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25288" LastActivityDate="2020-11-12T07:54:11.197" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14782" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14840" CreationDate="2020-11-12T12:36:01.050" Score="1" ViewCount="884" Body="&lt;p&gt;Marlin has an option to fade out the amount of backlash correction, given as &lt;code&gt;BACKLASH_CORRECTION&lt;/code&gt;. It is also available in &lt;a href=&quot;https://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M425.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;GCode as &lt;code&gt;M425 [F&amp;lt;value&amp;gt;]&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/a&gt;, where 0.0 = none and 1.0 = 100%.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming backlash correction is otherwise well tuned at 100%, when is useful to reduce its effect? Why not always keep it at 100%?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25289" LastActivityDate="2020-11-19T17:34:23.773" Title="What is the purpose of partial (&lt;100%) backlash correction?" Tags="|marlin|calibration|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14783" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14785" CreationDate="2020-11-12T17:16:41.670" Score="4" ViewCount="18851" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is the best technique to improve removing PETG from the print bed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PETG is known for sticking well to the bed; so well that it does not need a heated bed.  If it weren’t for printing other materials, I would try printing directly on the glass bed instead of a build surface. However, the build surface may help protect the glass from excessive force.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To reduce how strong the PETG sticks to the build surface I’ve reduced the bed temperature to 35 °C. It is easier to remove the skirt and brim by heating the bed up to 90 °C, so that the PETG is soft. However, if one tries to remove the printed object at 90 °C, the printed object is like to distort and ruin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did sharpen the putty knife on the top side only. This helps, but it still takes excessive time to remove the print job and clear the bed. The excessive force on the bed from the putty knife seems to increase the need to level the bed. It also seems to affect the flatness of the build surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I’m looking for techniques to make it easier and less time consuming to remove the PETG print from the bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;P.S. Additions after input from answers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Added keeping the initial Z-height high enough to keep adhesion to the bed from being too high.  This resolved the adhesion to the bed issue, but seemed to make adhesion between layers worse.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Set hot end to 230°C for first layer, then increased hot end temperature to 250°C for better adhesion between layers.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15075" LastEditorUserId="15075" LastEditDate="2020-11-16T17:24:42.860" LastActivityDate="2023-10-30T14:28:33.480" Title="What is the best technique to improve removing PETG from the print bed?" Tags="|petg|bed|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14784" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14783" CreationDate="2020-11-12T17:32:04.893" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Correctly level your bed. Seriously, that's the answer. PETG does stick well, but it only gets difficult to remove if you're smashing the first layer against the bed with a nozzle that's way too close. With the bed leveled properly - using feeler gauges or test prints and a sub-0.1-mm-precision caliper - I have no trouble taking PETG prints off a buildtak-clone bed. Glass should be easier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you already have PETG stuck to a build surface you care about and don't want to risk destroying it, try heat, or alternating heat and cold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2020-11-12T17:32:04.893" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14785" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14783" CreationDate="2020-11-12T18:28:05.393" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Playing around with the nozzle height will help: back it off until just before you have first layer adhesion issues.  Don't jam the filament into the bed as you might for ABS.  This helps with small prints.  However, my experience has been that if you have a large enough continuous contact area (i.e. more than a few square inches) with the print bed, there will be problems getting the print off.  So I still use painter's tape (in case I have to rip the print off with force) and glue sticks (so that I don't often need to) on my aluminum print bed as I've found that makes it much easier to deal with without damaging either the bed or the print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also try dialing back the heated bed temperature a bit (I think I've got mine set to 70-75 °C for PETG) but that also doesn't eliminate the issue with larger prints.  Also, if I lowered it too much I had problems with first layer adhesion on any size print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also have a glass plate that I use for ABS, which I don't use with PETG.  I've read too many accounts of it sticking too well to glass as well (to the point of the plate being destroyed) and didn't want to try using the amount of force on it that I sometimes have to when removing a PETG print.  I also considered trying BuildTak but read accounts of similar issues with it and PETG.  So I stayed with what's been working for me: tape and glue sticks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25234" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2022-12-24T19:47:53.157" LastActivityDate="2022-12-24T19:47:53.157" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14787" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-11-12T20:39:05.957" Score="0" ViewCount="416" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've had my bed continually heat up and not stop. I have replaced the SSR and replaced it with an identical-looking one and also replaced it with a MOSFET.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25294" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-11-16T23:27:31.583" LastActivityDate="2020-11-16T23:27:31.583" Title="CR-10 S Pro bed heating problems" Tags="|heated-bed|creality-cr-10|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14791" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11261" CreationDate="2020-11-13T03:02:57.870" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;For the SKR, to store the new Marlin definitions it is necessary to send the comand &lt;code&gt;M502&lt;/code&gt; to restore to the factory settings (will use the configuration on the SD card) and send the comand &lt;code&gt;M500&lt;/code&gt; to save the configurations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25299" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-11-14T12:26:46.343" LastActivityDate="2020-11-14T12:26:46.343" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14793" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14360" CreationDate="2020-11-13T03:47:19.673" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The first things I purchased for my V2 within the first week of having it were the magnetic flexible print bed as the prints were a pain in the butt to remove from the glass, and the aluminum extruder upgrade. I didn't do the dual gear drive because honestly I didn't pay attention at the time. however, the aluminum  set is more positive in feel when feeding compared to the plastic that comes stock. I just felt like I'd break the arm if I tried harder than I should whereas having the aluminum arm feels better to me. Beyond that, maybe the BLTouch leveling sensor so you can set everything right more easily than using a piece of paper, but that's really all I can suggest for now. I've been using mine quite a bit lately and have enjoyed it as is. I realize this post is over a couple months old, but I just saw it and thought I'd contribute if you haven't already made your purchase(s).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25301" LastActivityDate="2020-11-13T03:47:19.673" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14797" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14800" CreationDate="2020-11-13T15:36:17.320" Score="1" ViewCount="70" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am trying to print something that might take 15 hours. I don't want to risk my printer so if I print for 15 hours, what is the worst that can happen? So far, I haven't printed anything for more than 5 hours.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21856" LastActivityDate="2020-11-14T12:25:10.733" Title="Long Print with Lotmaxx SC-10" Tags="|creality-ender-3|safety|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14798" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14797" CreationDate="2020-11-13T17:23:39.790" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've printed jobs taking as long as 50 hours over a weekend using a German Reprap x400.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Used a large enough UPS to support the printer and the computer.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Printed the gcode file from a USB card instead of the computer, so that a computer update or reboot doesn't interfere with the print. [If you can't print from media independent of the computer, you can disconnect your computer from the network and/or internet.]&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Overnight prints still fail sometimes, probably from power issues the UPS doesn't filter out.  Often this means the filament material melts all over the hot end instead of sticking to the print on the bed and leaves a mess to clean up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other than that, I'm not sure of the risk for your particular printer model.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15075" LastEditorUserId="15075" LastEditDate="2020-11-13T18:33:57.363" LastActivityDate="2020-11-13T18:33:57.363" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14799" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14821" CreationDate="2020-11-13T18:20:19.687" Score="1" ViewCount="1170" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to check how stable the output of the bedleveling protocol &lt;code&gt;G29&lt;/code&gt; was by running it multiple times. When running it four times, I got this as subsequent output&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Recv: Bilinear Leveling Grid:&#xA;Recv:       0      1      2&#xA;Recv:  0 -0.056 -0.475 -0.605&#xA;Recv:  1 +0.124 -0.349 -0.595&#xA;Recv:  2 -0.023 -0.344 -0.673&#xA;Recv:  &#xA;&#xA;Recv:       0      1      2&#xA;Recv:  0 +0.218 -0.183 -0.325&#xA;Recv:  1 +0.399 -0.073 -0.328&#xA;Recv:  2 +0.251 -0.072 -0.399&#xA;Recv: &#xA;&#xA;Recv:       0      1      2&#xA;Recv:  0 +0.498 +0.090 -0.049&#xA;Recv:  1 +0.677 +0.211 -0.038&#xA;Recv:  2 +0.531 +0.217 -0.117&#xA;&#xA;Recv: Bilinear Leveling Grid:&#xA;Recv:       0      1      2&#xA;Recv:  0 +0.772 +0.368 +0.222&#xA;Recv:  1 +0.949 +0.482 +0.231&#xA;Recv:  2 +0.806 +0.495 +0.154&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which are quite unstable, and strange results. It seems as if there is an increment of around +0.27/0.28 for each probe point in the next iteration. How can this happen? What are the right bed level settings right now?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Printer: Anet A6&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Probe: BLTouch&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Software: Marlin 2.0&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bed level mode: Bilinear&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Amount of probe points: 3x3&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Probe surface: glass bed&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For reference, here are the &lt;a href=&quot;https://pastebin.com/tzwicptQ&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Configuration.h&lt;/a&gt; and the &lt;a href=&quot;https://pastebin.com/qpGVFD6j&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Configuration_adv.h&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14805" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-11-16T14:48:00.200" LastActivityDate="2020-11-16T14:53:30.857" Title="Output of G29 bed leveling, Marlin 2.0" Tags="|bed-leveling|bltouch|anet-a6|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14800" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14797" CreationDate="2020-11-13T18:45:40.070" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;As long as your printer is well designed as far as safety and you didn't get one without &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/8466/what-is-thermal-runaway-protection&quot;&gt;thermal runaway protection&lt;/a&gt; you should be fine. Worse case scenario: you have a big mess to clean up and a lot of wasted filament.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25312" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-11-14T12:25:10.733" LastActivityDate="2020-11-14T12:25:10.733" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14802" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11218" CreationDate="2020-11-13T23:17:39.480" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is happening to my E3 pro. When the Bowden tube slips back filament fills up the gap causing a heat creep issue. This of course causes clogged nozzle. If retracting I have had the swollen filament lodge in the tube to the point I had to remove tube and heat high enough with heat gun to soften filament for a reverse pull as there was nothing left on the hotend side to pull.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My solution  after a week of frustration was to replace the coupling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25314" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-11-14T12:14:51.490" LastActivityDate="2020-11-14T12:14:51.490" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14803" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-11-14T03:05:16.560" Score="5" ViewCount="898" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had a new Extruder tip on my Ender 3 3D printer. the tip looked like the left tip in the below image. After I have been using it for about 5 months, the tip got dull/flat, like the tip on the right in the below image.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only filament I have used is a spool of  PLA (from hatchbox) and a spool of PETG (from sain-smart)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;About the Filament&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the time that I replaced the tip, to now, i have only used my 1 spool of &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B00J0ECR5I&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;PLA filament&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't believe it has any carbon-fiber in it, the only other things I can think of, are that the filament has a tough time sticking to the bed, so I have to print pretty close to the bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;3D prints using my PLA filament&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ntcad.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ntcad.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;my PLA filament&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/O3PGS.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/O3PGS.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't 3D print a terribly large amount, Is it normal to have to be replacing the pen this often?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do I prevent my extruder tip from getting dull so soon? Is there a way to prevent the pen tip from getting dull at all?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Images:&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lP0Vu.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pboTZ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23125" LastEditorUserId="23125" LastEditDate="2024-03-28T14:59:01.560" LastActivityDate="2024-03-28T14:59:01.560" Title="preventing my printer nozzle from getting too dull, from nothing but PLA filament" Tags="|creality-ender-3|extruder|heat-management|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="12" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14804" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-11-14T03:12:02.650" Score="0" ViewCount="1174" Body="&lt;p&gt;In a print composed of three rows of parts, the center row is sticking to the bottom of the resin tray instead of the the print plate. I have tried the print five times with similar results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These pictures include the best and worst results:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AGVwY.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AGVwY.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;best case: most of print on plate&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bhU3X.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bhU3X.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;worst case: most of print on FEP sheet&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas as to cause? Should I clean the transparent sheet at the bottom of the resin tray in any special way?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found a great video providing solutions, and I am trying them one by one, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w7zwD9Z-ktc&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;UN-STUCK your 3D Prints, and keep prints from sticking. (REAL QUICK)&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am narrowing it down to the resin, or the printer/resin combination. The printer is a Sain Smart Kumitsu KL9, the resin is the &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B081N88WHS&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Elegoo 3D Rapid Resin&lt;/a&gt;, notably in Black&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2493" LastEditorUserId="2493" LastEditDate="2021-09-10T15:42:47.383" LastActivityDate="2021-09-10T15:42:47.383" Title="Parts of print sticking to FEP bottom of resin tray instead of print plate" Tags="|resin|sainsmart-kumitsu-kl9|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14805" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-11-14T04:43:10.497" Score="0" ViewCount="1470" Body="&lt;p&gt;Trying to print a bracket for pliers, however the support material on the left side always fails by under extruding. The model is left-right symetrical, so the support is the same for both sides. However, only the right side prints flawlessly, while the left side barely extrudes any material at all. So far, I have tried increasing the extrusion multiplier to 125% (from default 109% - actually resulted in less support printed on left side), increasing the density of the support material and reducing retraction distance while increasing the retraction speed. I cannot get the left side support to print properly. The actual model prints without any issue, only the support material is failing to print.&#xA;I am using a Flashforge Creator Pro and Flashprint slicer software.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I allowed one of the prints to finish, pausing numerous times to add/adjust some tape to the almost non-existent left support structure to help hold it together. Once it reached the top part of the model where it printed the overhanging portion, it printed near-perfect, with some minor under-extrusion along the way (as seen in the first image)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oTTRU.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oTTRU.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can't remember the exact settings used for each attempt, but I can recall (mostly) the settings I adjusted&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UruZm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UruZm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Default extrusion multiplier (109%)&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;^^ Default extrusion multiplier (109%)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OqzIH.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OqzIH.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;116% extrusion multiplier&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;^^ 116% extrusion multiplier (little perceivable difference to default)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rOj4w.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rOj4w.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;125% extrusion multiplier&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;^^ 125% extrusion multiplier (less extruded support material)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Li1YX.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Li1YX.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Left side support failing to print, right side perfect&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;^^ Left side support failing to print, right side perfect&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;I have noticed there is a delay between when the extruder &amp;quot;starts&amp;quot; extruding and filament actually coming out. The print head moves during this time as though expecting filament to be extruding resulting in the first few cm being under-extruded, or not extruded at all.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25185" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-11-14T12:19:44.310" LastActivityDate="2020-11-14T12:19:44.310" Title="Under extrusion on one side, but only while printing support material" Tags="|underextrusion|print-failure|support-material|flashforge|flashprint|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14807" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-11-14T14:45:07.150" Score="1" ViewCount="379" Body="&lt;p&gt;My Prusa Mini arrived with a defective X axis belt. I can order a replacement and it is covered by warranty. But I would also like to know its specifications. &lt;a href=&quot;https://shop.prusa3d.com/en/mini/1093-belt-x-axis.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;This information&lt;/a&gt; is available on the store page for the MK3 but not the Mini.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23492" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-11-14T15:25:04.657" LastActivityDate="2021-04-13T20:59:36.687" Title="Specifications of Prusa Mini X-Axis Belt" Tags="|replacement-parts|part-identification|belt|prusa-mini|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14808" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14807" CreationDate="2020-11-14T19:56:00.610" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;To be sure you could measure the width and the tooth spacing (pitch). The most probable and used belt in 3D printers is the GT2 6 mm belt. The teeth are spaced 2 mm and the width is 6 mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Mu2Pg.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Mu2Pg.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/e2Jyk.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/e2Jyk.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2020-11-14T19:56:00.610" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14809" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-11-14T21:23:40.500" Score="1" ViewCount="263" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've never used a 3D printer before. I'm trying to print the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:214260&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;calibration cube&lt;/a&gt;  found on Thingiverse. After the process finished, I noticed that the face pointing up that forms the inset at the base of the letters Y and X was not printed and I could see a hole. The same for the faces pointing down at the top of the letters. At first I thought that it was a printer issue, then I checked the relevant slices and I found out that those faces are not built at all in Cura:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LPPKk.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LPPKk.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;If I do the same in the Prusa slicer, I get the necessary base:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/I4JZa.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/I4JZa.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do I get the same in Cura?&#xA;How is this setting called?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25327" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-11-14T22:45:13.140" LastActivityDate="2020-11-15T22:04:34.550" Title="Horizontal faces not generated in Cura" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|slicing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14810" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14803" CreationDate="2020-11-15T01:22:27.930" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your extruder nozzle will wear from the inside out if you are using abrasive filaments, which include carbon fiber, wood type filaments, glow-in-the-dark and many other types.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because they are abrasive, removing material from the inside also thins the cone shape of the outside (point) of the nozzle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The solution is to not use abrasive filaments, or to use a hardened nozzle specifically manufactured for abrasive filaments, or to change the nozzle frequently.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this is a 3D printing pen as your post suggests, please clarify, as the answer is likely to change but only slightly. If this is a nozzle for a 3D printer, consider to edit your question to reflect thusly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastActivityDate="2020-11-15T01:22:27.930" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14811" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-11-15T14:37:11.300" Score="3" ViewCount="1222" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to make a G-code script for Cura to clean the nozzle every Xth layer or every one minute?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With Cura there is only start and end G-code, so there is no &amp;quot;layer change&amp;quot; G-code like another slicer (e.g. Ideamaker).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Where should I write the code?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I define the Layer number?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25332" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-11-15T18:46:03.653" LastActivityDate="2023-05-18T14:42:19.040" Title="Cleaning the nozzle every Xth layer G-code" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|g-code|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14812" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14811" CreationDate="2020-11-15T19:06:18.007" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are extensions for Cura that can do almost what you want to do for you (with respect to the layer or height).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You need to add post-processing scripts to the Cura slicer. You do that from the top menu options &lt;code&gt;Extensions -&amp;gt; Post Processing -&amp;gt; Modify G-Code&lt;/code&gt; and then add the option of choice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;E.g. for an event at every layer change you should use script &amp;quot;&lt;em&gt;Insert at layer change&lt;/em&gt;&amp;quot; and fill out the G-code you want to perform.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are options to write your own extension, but that would require some software development skills.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Optionally, you could use the &amp;quot;ChangeAtZ&amp;quot; script to add absurd temperature changes of the extruder to post process that later by a simple e.g. Python script (outside Cura) to replace those actions with the cleaning actions you want to perform. But, when you can do that, you could write a script outside Cura to detect the layers (e.g. from the comments or from the layer change command &lt;code&gt;G1 Zxx&lt;/code&gt;) and insert that right away.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For inserting this on the basis of time would be very difficult, it is difficult to estimate the time printing actions take to then inject such a script.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2020-11-15T19:06:18.007" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14813" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14803" CreationDate="2020-11-15T19:57:28.330" Score="2" Body="&lt;h1&gt;in a printer&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;abrasive filament&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You probably are using an &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/14402/how-do-i-know-if-a-filament-is-abrasive&quot;&gt;abrasive filament.&lt;/a&gt; The most loss on abrasive filament happens when the nozzle runs over the printed material as it extrudes and less from the bore itself. As a result, the nozzles get ground up from the tip. How carbon-fiber filled PLA grinds away nozzles can be seen on &lt;a href=&quot;https://olssonruby.com/design-quality/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this page&lt;/a&gt; of the Olsson Ruby webpage (no affiliation), where they printed circles till the nozzles were ground away half a millimeter: it took just 300 grams for brass, a kilo for stainless steel and 4 kg for hardened steel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YVRbU.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YVRbU.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To reduce the wear of the nozzle, one can swap to such from harder material (as seen above), for example, stainless steel or hardened steel, which then needs to get replaced less often. On the flipside, the machining of these materials is harder and thus the nozzle costs more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only way to get virtually no nozzle grind-up from printing abrasive material - especially PC filled - would be to go for a ruby nozzle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;mechanical damage&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In case you have misleveled your bed and print too close, you might also ram your nozzle into the bed to a point that the mechanical impact dulls your nozzle. Make sure your bed is leveled properly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;in a 3D-pen&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3D pens often come with really soft nozzles and mishandling - as in pushing against a surface - can grind their tips faster than a normal printer would. The other things still apply.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2020-11-15T20:46:06.953" LastActivityDate="2020-11-15T20:46:06.953" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14814" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14809" CreationDate="2020-11-15T22:04:34.550" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cura has several settings that can cause it to erroneously omit small top/bottom surface &amp;quot;skins&amp;quot;. Look for preshrink (&amp;quot;Skin Removal Width&amp;quot;), expansion (&amp;quot;Skin Expand Distance&amp;quot;), and particularly the limits on when expansion takes place (&amp;quot;Maximum Skin Angle/Minimum Skin Width for Expansion&amp;quot;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Normally Cura shrinks then expands skins by the same amount, proportional to line width, to avoid generating skin (which is slow to print and harms layer adhesion when mixed with walls) in places where the walls will already cover it. But the recently added max-angle/min-width settings cause the expansion to be skipped in certain places, leaving just the shrinking, and thereby serious gaps in the surface. This feature is just misguided and should be disabled by setting the min width to 0.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you still have problems after that, you can try lowering both the shrink and expand, possibly even all the way to 0, but this will harm print quality and shouldn't be necessary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2020-11-15T22:04:34.550" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14815" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14816" CreationDate="2020-11-16T02:43:06.180" Score="1" ViewCount="886" Body="&lt;p&gt;With a resin printer, the print will occasionally adhere to the bottom sheet of the resin tray (the FEP transparent sheet), instead of the stainless print plate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How does one remove the failed print from the FEP sheet without causing damage?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2493" LastActivityDate="2020-11-16T02:43:06.180" Title="How to remove a resin print stuck to the FEP tray bottom" Tags="|resin|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14816" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14815" CreationDate="2020-11-16T02:43:06.180" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Wash the resin tray in the normal way, with hot water and dish soap. Once the FEP sheet is warm, run a finger alongside the bottom of the sheet, opposite the side where the failed print is stuck. The slight warping of the FEP sheet will cause the print to come loose. If this does not occur the first time, try again. Proceed patiently and delicately, making sure to wait for the FEP sheet to be sufficiently warm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2493" LastActivityDate="2020-11-16T02:43:06.180" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14817" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-11-16T02:50:02.113" Score="-1" ViewCount="370" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a custom Cartesian style 3D printer. The controller board has been upgraded to a BIGTREETECH SKR V 1.4 Turbo. This is a 32 bit board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Marlin 2.0.3 seemed to build and install with less issues than others. I'm using VS code to work with Marlin. My big problem is with homing all axis. For some reason the Z axis finishes with the extruder 6 mm above the bed. The extruder goes below the bed to start printing. It's damaging the bed. What can be done in Marlin 2.0.3 to fix it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25339" LastEditorUserId="4922" LastEditDate="2021-04-21T13:23:34.560" LastActivityDate="2021-04-21T13:23:34.560" Title="3D printer homing issue, nozzle damaging the bed when printing" Tags="|marlin|homing|bigtreetech|skr-v1.4|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14818" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-11-16T03:23:26.357" Score="1" ViewCount="239" Body="&lt;p&gt;I halfway feel like I walked into a landmine, neighbor's kid saved up and bought an Ender 3 base model printer.  Just before it was given to me he installed a BL touch I bought him in exchange for him printing some parts I was modeling and so our story starts...don't think I can go into my full sob story so I'm going try and cut to the chase but I have little knowledge of how this is put together and coming in in the middle and backpaddling whether is was put together correctly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a 3D modeler I attempted to print a demo file or two in preparation to print a case for a raspberry pi camera I've been working on during COVID.  At some point during the print while I wasn't around the bed flew off, and there was an inch of plastic melted around the head.  Long story short I spent the last week finding, buying and replacing the whole hot end assembly as it was cheaper then repairing it.  So now I believe I'm back to square one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While watching something print, I noticed the PLA wasn't getting bunched off on one part of the print so I stopped it before a repeat of earlier in the month happened.  While sitting on the floor I began to notice the right side of the bar where the hot end/nozzle attaches is about 1 cm or so higher then the right.  As I have no frame of reference I'm hoping someone can confirm whether that should be the case.&#xA;Raising the Z to the top and measuring to that cross bar  I don't know that it's the bed but I don't have a small enough level to put on the bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm seeing if I print something like a calibration cube it's printing OK, but if I go for something wider like 3D Benchy or my camera case the filament only touches on one part of the bed.  This is occurring on both the original bed and the glass bed I installed and readjusted the Z for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sorry...Hope that's not TMI, there's a lot going on.  Also I'm using a spool of Hatchbox PLA if that matters and the new hot end is a Creality one from Microcenter as I didn't trust what was on Amazon to be 'authentic'.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25340" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-11-16T06:46:22.630" LastActivityDate="2020-11-16T06:46:22.630" Title="Ender 3 unknown (maybe bed leveling) issue" Tags="|creality-ender-3|bed-leveling|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14819" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14818" CreationDate="2020-11-16T04:52:42.810" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Non-square gantry is a common problem with the Ender 3. You should be able to compensate by adjusting the bed leveling screws so that the nozzle at Z=0 is touching the bed at each of the four adjustment points. This will leave some skew, which you may or may not care about. But the right thing to do is leveling the gantry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both sides' Z carriages have some play in how the gantry mounts to them - the holes are larger than the machine screws that go through them - so after loosening the screws you can make adjustments. The screws on the side with the Z motor are hidden between the carriage and Z axis extrusion it rolls on, so to adjust it you need to roll the whole assembly off the top of the printer (with the cross beam at the top removed). Since you can't tighten it in-place, you just have to do your best to get it straight before putting it back on. The unpowered side, however, has screws that are reachable with the whole assembly in place, so you can square the gantry with the Z extrusions before tightening them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keep in mind that the whole Z axis system is severely over-constrained, with 6 wheels where 3 should suffice to constrain it. People have a lot of different ideas about how you should deal with this, and I'm still not sure what's best, but I think you want to get each of the V-roller sets tight (using the eccentric nuts to adjust the inner wheels) &lt;em&gt;before&lt;/em&gt; leveling and tightening down the gantry. Otherwise the wheels may have uneven tension, causing the assembly to want to twist.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2020-11-16T04:52:42.810" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14821" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14799" CreationDate="2020-11-16T12:27:36.407" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Actually the sensor reads the bed correctly in terms of shape, not in actual reproducible distance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Plotting the grids:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HoYurm.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HoYurm.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/o4H3Hm.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/o4H3Hm.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TyZ2im.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TyZ2im.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/g2J4hm.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/g2J4hm.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Results in pretty much the same shapes, so, when correcting for the maximum displacement and plotting all results in a single graph gives:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3RTEe.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3RTEe.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the sensor does seem to produce reproducible bed geometry, but not the actual values.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Misinterpreting your initial question I assumed a default Anet sensor, this  official ROKO SN04-N sensor is reported to not be very accurate and has a maximum &lt;a href=&quot;http://pliki.aksotronik.pl/sn04.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;hysteresis&lt;/a&gt; of 10 % error of the detecting distance, which is 10 % of 5 mm (so ± 0.5 mm). The overall maximum measurement is in grid 4 with a value of 0.949 mm and in grid 1 with a value of 0.124 mm;  0.949 mm - 0.124 mm = 0.825 mm is well within the ± 0.5 mm. This seems odd as the hysteresis should be in play on all measurements as the probe goes up and down. I've used this sensor myself, but replaced it for a more reliable sensor like the LJ18A3-8-Z/BX.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now that it is clear that an accurate sensor is being used, there might be some play/backlash present in your printer. You should check the probe mount and the Z-axis.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-11-16T14:53:30.857" LastActivityDate="2020-11-16T14:53:30.857" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14822" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7194" CreationDate="2020-11-16T14:53:51.430" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is an alternative.  Use screw to expand inserts before final curing.&#xA;After washing, but before curing, place the threaded insert into the hole.  Use a screw to expand it into the hole walls.  Curing will then 'fix' the insert into the hole.&#xA;Hope this late advise is usable.&#xA;TC Carr&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.mcmaster.com/screw-to-expand-inserts/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.mcmaster.com/screw-to-expand-inserts/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25349" LastActivityDate="2020-11-16T14:53:51.430" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14824" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5989" CreationDate="2020-11-16T20:33:27.423" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;On Tinkercad, you can import your stl and add &amp;quot;subtraction&amp;quot; cubes, and merge them with the parts you don't want printed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25090" LastActivityDate="2020-11-16T20:33:27.423" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14825" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14652" CreationDate="2020-11-17T09:42:09.973" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not knowing the type of inductive sensor you are using, the most common, an NPN type sensor (like the LJ18A3-8-Z/BX) is assumed (in relation to your &lt;a href=&quot;/q/14649&quot;&gt;previous question&lt;/a&gt;). NPN type sensors imply that the signal is held high at a certain voltage (the supply voltage ranges from 6 V-36 V, but are reported to work on 5 V also) and is actively switched down to 0 V when triggered.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically the sensor always produces a high signal until triggered. Why is this the preferred option? If somehow the wires break or some issue occurs that triggers the sensor, movement is stopped to prevent damage to occur.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The signal from the sensor needs to be &amp;quot;high&amp;quot; and the switch needs to cut the power by opening the circuit. So make sure what your sensor signal is outputting in the first place. The depicted switch is a powered switch as it uses an LED, but the switching component on the circuit board itself has three pins, COM (COMmon), NO (Normally Open) and NC (Normally Closed). You need to put +5 V on the white wire to power the right side of the optocoupler and connect the switch as such that the COM and the NC are connected (most probably S and U in the depicted switch).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2020-11-17T09:42:09.973" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14830" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-11-18T15:14:59.640" Score="0" ViewCount="3385" Body="&lt;p&gt;When a resin comes without a proper data sheet (!), or more likely when the timing for first layer and default layer exposure do not match your LED resin printer, how do you go about determining ideal exposure times?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2493" LastActivityDate="2020-12-06T05:13:37.313" Title="Determining exposure time for resin" Tags="|resin|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14831" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-11-18T23:34:54.517" Score="1" ViewCount="1412" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there a setting or G-code, to prevent Ultimaker Cura from setting the nozzle and build plate temperatures to 0? I have looked and have not found anything in the printer beginning/ending G-code, print settings, etc...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Would this have something to do with it?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YImhs.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YImhs.png&quot; alt=&quot;end GCODE&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23125" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-11-19T20:24:27.770" LastActivityDate="2022-05-21T18:38:25.807" Title="Cura: How to prevent my 3D printer from auto cooling after prints" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|nozzle|cooling|bed|temperature|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14833" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14831" CreationDate="2020-11-19T01:53:43.627" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In CuraEngine's &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/Ultimaker/CuraEngine/blob/0852f3cd5e909c9ebb459befb499292460da97d4/src/FffGcodeWriter.cpp#L2943-L3011&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;code&gt;FffGcodeWriter::finalize&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/a&gt; method, G-code to zero the bed and enclosure temperature is only written if the machine profile defines a heated bed/enclosure, so you could in theory avoid the cooldown by telling Cura your machine doesn't and putting the heatup commands in your custom start gcode instead of letting Cura emit them itself. However it unconditionally zeros all of the hotend temperatures, and does this after emitting your custom end G-code, so you can't even turn the hotend back on from there. The only way to undo Cura's insistence on turning it off is with some sort of postprocessing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Update: There's actually a way to fix this purely at the configuration/profile level! Set &lt;code&gt;machine_nozzle_temp_enabled&lt;/code&gt; (&amp;quot;Enable Nozzle Temperature Control&amp;quot;) to false (off) and Cura will not emit &lt;em&gt;any&lt;/em&gt; M104/M109 temperature commands. You can then put whatever temperature commands you do or don't want in your start/end gcode.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastEditorUserId="11157" LastEditDate="2022-05-21T18:38:25.807" LastActivityDate="2022-05-21T18:38:25.807" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14834" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-11-19T03:41:17.850" Score="1" ViewCount="255" Body="&lt;p&gt;Recently I printed &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3816051&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this direct drive mod&lt;/a&gt; and installed into my Ender 3.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After installation, the stepper motor constantly bangs into the right Z frame of the printer. I have already set the bed X axis size to 190 mm within Cura slicer and my OctoPi printer profile but when homing, it will home to left and move towards right at a fairly fast speed and &amp;quot;BANG&amp;quot;, I can hear the motor skipping a few steps, not sure how to proceed from here...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25380" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-11-19T20:18:10.967" LastActivityDate="2021-04-19T07:08:11.543" Title="Limit X axis due to direct drive" Tags="|creality-ender-3|direct-drive|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14836" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14783" CreationDate="2020-11-19T10:36:05.057" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Try to lift the nozzle more than you'd do even for PLA. PETG sticks really well to the heated bed. If your bed is already well leveled you can adjust the nozzle position in Z by using Z offsets directly in your slicing software (AFAIK, Cura needs an extra plugin for it, Prusa Slicer has it built-in).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have done everything correctly, the PETG model should come out almost by itself just by letting the bed to cool down naturally to 40ºC approx. Be patient.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25384" LastActivityDate="2020-11-19T10:36:05.057" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14837" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5989" CreationDate="2020-11-19T10:41:59.080" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;What you can also try is to separate the part from the rest of the model within your CAD software. In FreeCAD for example, you can use the mesh design workbench to cut the small part away from the rest, then you slice this small piece and print it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25384" LastActivityDate="2020-11-19T10:41:59.080" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14838" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-11-19T11:37:46.623" Score="0" ViewCount="754" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an Ender 3 Pro with the BLTouch installed. Firmware is Marlin 2.0.7.2. I followed &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YsTGH5JvClM&amp;amp;t=590s&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this instruction&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I start the bed leveling it will go to the center, check it twice and then return to the home position. When I did this with the firmware from Creality it would check 9 different points. I would expect this also from this firmware.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the Configuration.h I have this setting:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#define GRID_MAX_POINTS_X 3&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;so I would expect 9 tests.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I double check everyting with the video. The only difference is that the video is based on an older version. The setting&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#define MIN_PROBE_EDGE = 10&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;is missing in firmware 2.0.7.2.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there maybe a new setting that I should enable/disable?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25385" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-11-19T15:08:39.490" LastActivityDate="2020-11-20T19:45:44.247" Title="Ender 3 Pro with BLTouch bed leveling stops after 1 test (Marlin 2.0.7.2)" Tags="|marlin|creality-ender-3|bed-leveling|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14840" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14782" CreationDate="2020-11-19T17:34:23.773" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The developers explained the use of the M425 code &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/issues/10826&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;themselves&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We devised a routine for measuring Z backlash automatically during G29&#xA;and found that software backlash compensation does wonders for the&#xA;first layer. However, this comes at the expense of artifacts on the&#xA;rest of the print. In particular, any rapid motions of the motor to&#xA;try to take up any backlash will inevitably create a small pause and&#xA;vibration, leading to a seam in the print. We devised a smoothing&#xA;algorithm that allowed backlash correction to be gradually applied&#xA;over a distance, this eliminated any harsh transitions, which again&#xA;lead to a huge improvement. Alas, we learned that the feature was very&#xA;sensitive to the variances in the printer build, working amazingly&#xA;well in some cases, but leading to a degraded quality other printers.&#xA;This perhaps is a feature that could be used by someone who wished to&#xA;hand tune the algorithm, but not something we could use in a mass&#xA;produced printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&amp;quot;M425 F&amp;quot; sets a value from 0 to 1 which is multiplied by the backlash&#xA;distance. This command is meant for use by the slicer, and allows it&#xA;to &amp;quot;fade&amp;quot; away the backlash compensation gradually over several&#xA;layers, or to turn it off completely after the first layer (with a&#xA;&amp;quot;M425 F0&amp;quot;)&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2338" LastActivityDate="2020-11-19T17:34:23.773" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14841" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14758" CreationDate="2020-11-19T18:25:30.947" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Another issue might be layer height and extrusion i ran into minor layershifting today but after tuning my Z-offset i now have perfectly straight layers, try calibrating z-steps and e-steps there are plenty off videos on that. It does look like your layer height is pretty high, and lowering the speed (and or accelaration) with which you print can drastically improve your print quality at the cost of time. Please let me know if this worked.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25258" LastActivityDate="2020-11-19T18:25:30.947" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14842" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14834" CreationDate="2020-11-19T18:30:27.150" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Try using a pancake stepper I heard those work quite well, they do have less torque but you can overcome that with gear ratio's like on the bondtech extruders. It should be thin enough so you can use the full volume again. If you dont think that's worth it you should move you X-axis endstop since the homing is where it goes wrong, as far as firmware goes I can't help you in that aspect as well as other would be able too. I hope this helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25258" LastActivityDate="2020-11-19T18:30:27.150" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14843" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-11-20T05:15:26.737" Score="1" ViewCount="1211" Body="&lt;p&gt;Using the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Printer : Ender 3 PRO - 2019 1.1.4 non-silent board&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Firmware : Official Creality Ender 3 PRO - BLTouch version&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bed : Original Creality Glass Bed&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Nozzle : Original Stock - there isn't any upgrade&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Filament : Porima PLA Red&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hotend : 210 °C&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bed : 60 °C&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;BLTouch : Official Creality V3.1 Smart&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Z Offset : -3.50 mm which keeps nozzle's distance as 0.2 mm from bed while printing first layers&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Test Model : &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2913473&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Ender 3 Damping Feets&lt;/a&gt; 100 % infill - 105 % flow rate - 60 mm/s printing speed&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This morning I realized that my nozzle is scraping to bed while it's printing left side to the table, I'm using a BLTouch and this shouldn't be happening right?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas what could cause this and how I can fix it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/E2UXA.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/E2UXA.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/C78rc.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/C78rc.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Romam.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Romam.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IOsdo.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IOsdo.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25262" LastEditorUserId="14562" LastEditDate="2020-11-20T14:11:58.800" LastActivityDate="2020-11-20T14:11:58.800" Title="BLTouch Fails &amp; Scraping at the Left Side of the Table" Tags="|creality-ender-3|bed-leveling|bltouch|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14845" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14843" CreationDate="2020-11-20T11:21:50.957" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This left bed side issue could be caused by the poor design of the Ender 3 (portal printer single side Z lead screw and counter rolling guide post) in conjunction with the way the bed is probed and the hysteresis of the gantry. The second photo issue could well a result of an imperfection of the bed, a local bump, which cannot be filtered out with insufficient probing points or the firmware bed leveling option.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2020-11-20T11:21:50.957" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14846" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15076" CreationDate="2020-11-20T11:50:47.697" Score="1" ViewCount="522" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are lot of advices on the web how to paint the 3D printed objects, but generally they are advices for manual painting and this required special skills, especially if the object is small. My guess is that maybe 3D printer can lay the color layers as well? I am especially interested in the layering of enamel paints (which can be transparent and which can required high temperature heating afterwards). Medieval art has fine examples how detailed enamel art was created on the metal. Maybe something like this can be achieved with 3D printers as well?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If 3D priner with the paint-printing capability is not available generally then what are the prospects when such printer can be available? Maybe there are some early, experimental efforts to create such printer and maybe test devices are available?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19560" LastActivityDate="2020-12-21T19:19:30.537" Title="Can 3D printer work with enamel paints (or paints generally)? Are such printers available?" Tags="|post-processing|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14847" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14846" CreationDate="2020-11-20T13:20:14.350" Score="0" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Painting Prints&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, you can paint your models with &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Enamel_paint&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;enamel paints&lt;/a&gt;. Actually, most paints will work. You might need to roughen the surface with sandpaper a tiny bit. Note that some spray paints might contain solvents that might soften or melt the prints, so read your ingredients!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;...not with vitreous enamel&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, you can't use &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vitreous_enamel&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;proper enamel&lt;/a&gt;, as that needs to be sintered after the paints have dried, and that will destroy your print unless you have used a metal-printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Printing Color&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, if you want a printer to print a paste of vitreous enamel, you are looking for a &lt;strong&gt;paste printer&lt;/strong&gt;. However, the paint for such a device needs to be very viscous, and the print quality (due to the large nozzle) will be far below what a skilled artisan can achieve. Also, you'd need one paste extruder per color.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Foils?&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One could possibly work with foils, cutting them on a plotter and then carefully transferring them to the printed object. This would allow much finer details than a paste printer currently is able to create. Such a foil can also be printed upon by special printers - possibly achieving the full spectrum in a single application step.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively, one would use a &amp;quot;puzzle&amp;quot; of smaller pieces and apply each piece separately. The result might actually be somewhat similar to the &lt;em&gt;Chromolith&lt;/em&gt; (Colored Stone) stonewares that had been created by Villeroy &amp;amp; Boch starting 1876.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2020-12-21T19:03:54.957" LastActivityDate="2020-12-21T19:03:54.957" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14849" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-11-20T19:02:23.897" Score="1" ViewCount="4117" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have observed some occasional delamination in horizontal layers of my resin prints — see two examples:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DxGPD.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DxGPD.png&quot; alt=&quot;downward&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BZEoF.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BZEoF.png&quot; alt=&quot;upward&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the cause, and how can this be minimized?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2493" LastActivityDate="2020-12-07T15:37:16.553" Title="Delamination in resin prints" Tags="|resin|delamination|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14850" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-11-20T19:04:25.383" Score="1" ViewCount="670" Body="&lt;p&gt;The slicer included with my printers (ChituBox) has no STL editing capabilities. How to edit STL models?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2493" LastEditorUserId="8353" LastEditDate="2020-11-27T22:35:01.010" LastActivityDate="2020-11-27T22:35:01.010" Title="How to edit STL model files" Tags="|3d-models|stl|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14853" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-11-21T09:57:51.507" Score="0" ViewCount="85" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am printing some resin models in transparent resin. They look quite good when they are coming out of the printer, but they later develop this white hazy look that even when removed with an IPA rinse appears to return. Here is an example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jqKdr.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jqKdr.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you can see this &amp;quot;hazy glaze&amp;quot; is almost as white as the underlying sheet of Scott paper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How does one cure a transparent resin print to finish the best look for transparency?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2493" LastActivityDate="2020-11-21T09:57:51.507" Title="Finishing transparent resin prints" Tags="|resin|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14854" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14850" CreationDate="2020-11-21T12:01:29.777" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think it depends on your use case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As Bobt already commented, Meshmixer is a common tool for editing STLs.&#xA;But also a lot of CAD-Tools should be able to import STLs.&#xA;Then there is also of course Blender.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you didn't specify what you want to use it for, I would guess you just want to do some quick fixes to the mesh.&#xA;The tool I use is Meshmixer. It's pretty powerful, but I personally never really used a lot of it's capabilities.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14330" LastActivityDate="2020-11-21T12:01:29.777" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14855" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-11-21T13:18:07.073" Score="3" ViewCount="1347" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have seen that you can clean used IPA from resin by putting it in the sun a while, making the resin dissolved in the IPA cure. Could I do the same thing just using the cure-mode in with the Elegoo Mercury wash-and-cure-station?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25402" LastEditorUserId="25402" LastEditDate="2020-11-21T15:05:44.427" LastActivityDate="2021-04-20T21:53:39.797" Title="Cleaning IPA with the help of Mercury wash-and-cure?" Tags="|resin|cleaning|recycling|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14857" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14855" CreationDate="2020-11-21T16:13:47.837" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Based on the frequencies of most UV cure resins, your suggestion has merit. Other factors come into consideration, however.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These illumination devices have a limited life span. Running the UV diodes for the purpose of curing out the resin from the IPA will &amp;quot;use up&amp;quot; the portion of time otherwise useful for curing models.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally, the UV light which would otherwise be &amp;quot;applied&amp;quot; to the surface of a printed model now has to pass through the IPA. While the IPA is perfectly transparent to the 405 nm used to cure resins, there could be attenuation and refraction by impurities in the liquid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sunlight is mostly free, broad-spectrum, and (on a sunny day) far more powerful than most affordable UV illumination systems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In a pinch, sure, use the curing feature, but the sun is your cheap friend.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2020-11-21T16:21:03.167" LastActivityDate="2020-11-21T16:21:03.167" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14860" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14861" CreationDate="2020-11-22T04:44:48.077" Score="0" ViewCount="1738" Body="&lt;p&gt;I do not have a clear understanding of what causes resin prints to become brittle. Firstly, it appears excessive cold (in the 40s or even 30s, I am in New England) may be a factor. What else can cause brittleness in resin prints? Is there a difference between resin types?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2493" LastActivityDate="2021-06-07T07:51:05.187" Title="Brittle resin prints" Tags="|resin|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14861" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14860" CreationDate="2020-11-22T14:52:04.713" Score="1" Body="&lt;h1&gt;Many printing resins are &lt;em&gt;inherently&lt;/em&gt; brittle.&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Brittle is a property of the material - so of the used printing resin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Look at &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/J7njc7HciTg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;the first seconds of this video&lt;/a&gt; - Punished Props Academy drops an SLA/DLP printed dagger on the ground from about 1 meter and it shatters, despite having been carefully post cured and washed and everything. To mitigate that trouble they did a cast of the item with a different resin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, the exact brittle behavior of the print is inherently linked to the exact formulation and thus the exact brand and type of resin used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Some are less brittle than others - and outright flexible.&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might need to test around, but there are flexible resins. &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.techstage.de/ratgeber/Flex-Resin-Mehr-Elastizitaet-bei-SLA-Druckern-4727548.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;This german essay&lt;/a&gt; contains pictures and even a video of a &lt;em&gt;super flexible&lt;/em&gt; printing resin. Just an example: One such rubbery resin is &lt;a href=&quot;https://support.formlabs.com/s/article/Using-Flexible-Resin?language=en_US&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Formlabs Flexible 80A&lt;/a&gt;, and &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.matterhackers.com/store/c/flexible-3d-printer-resins&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Matterhackers&lt;/a&gt; has a range of different flexible resins. Google does show other brands too by googling &amp;quot;&lt;a href=&quot;https://lmgtfy.app/?q=sla%20resin%20flexible&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;SLA Resin Flexible&lt;/a&gt;&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am not affiliated with Formlabs, Matterhackers, or Techstage.de&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastActivityDate="2020-11-22T14:52:04.713" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14863" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-11-23T02:12:31.570" Score="1" ViewCount="33" Body="&lt;p&gt;While disassembling my printer, I found that the X-axis rods were able to be slide back and forth within their mounting bracket. This seems like it could lead to this axis shifting from vibration alone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But, it might not matter, I think, because the extruder carriage is tensioned by a belt and it simply uses the rails as a guide to slide across. Even if the rods were to move, it wouldn't take the carriage along with it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will the X-axis rods sliding in their mounting bracket have an affect in print quality?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://drive.google.com/file/d/18MTjdL_epm241k0jUMZSBAIKeJ7JFM9R/view?usp=sharing&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Here&lt;/a&gt; is a video:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23492" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-11-23T12:12:05.113" LastActivityDate="2020-11-23T12:12:05.113" Title="Is it an issue when X-axis rods are able to slide in their mounting bracket?" Tags="|linear-motion|x-axis|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14864" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16111" CreationDate="2020-11-23T02:42:13.553" Score="3" ViewCount="1166" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just received my new Prusa Mini a few weeks ago and at first it was great. But very soon a afterwards I started having small issues creep into my prints such as shapes becoming elongated, ridges on what should be a smooth surface, and skipped steps along the X axis.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Eventually the entire head carriage started making a thunking sound as it slid across the X axis. This was from the belt, having lost some of its teeth, slipping across the motor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a photo of the damage to the belt:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/p541V.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/p541V.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Prusa service was excellent and with a photo and my order number they shipped out a replacement immediately.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Swapping in the new belt fixed everything and I thought my problems were behind me. But within a day or two of printing I started noticing problems with my prints. Upon inspection, I found that my belt was again damaged:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/b1Szn.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/b1Szn.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've tightened belts before on my other printer and have never seen anything like this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did notice that the belt provided by Prusa is thinner than the one on my other printer. But the Prusa belt seems to be of a higher quality with some kind of fiber blended into it:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oiFV9.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oiFV9.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The obvious answer is that I've overtightened the belt. But I've tightened belts before and never had this happen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Interestingly, both belts failed at the exact same location. The position where the damage would be at the X axis motor puts the extruder roughly centered on the build plate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PAfQj.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23492" LastEditorUserId="23492" LastEditDate="2020-11-23T06:18:18.053" LastActivityDate="2021-04-17T15:54:11.767" Title="How is my Prusa Mini damaging its X axis belt?" Tags="|belt|prusa-mini|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14867" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14863" CreationDate="2020-11-23T06:18:53.107" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the x-axis rods only move in the x axis then there’s no problem, but if they aren’t firmly secured in the other axes then there could be issues.  If they’re able to move then presumably they aren’t secured that well.  Given the relatively small forces involved in 3D printing though, you may well be fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25415" LastActivityDate="2020-11-23T06:18:53.107" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14869" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-11-23T16:58:40.347" Score="0" ViewCount="218" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was hoping I could find some help as I am not that familiar with Marlin. I currently have an Ender 5 and I am in the process of replacing the stock board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So here’s what I am trying to do: I have two small 12 V fans that I want to be powered on when the enclosure is above a temperature that I set using the Ender 5 interface. Basically, both fans get powered on until the temp is below (maybe a few degrees) the target temp. The temperature would be monitored by a thermistor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I prefer this over using a separate Arduino as I find the Arduino adds bulk and lots of unnecessary wires etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I really would appreciate any help on this, or anyone telling me that this idea is impossible with the selected board. If it is possible, a detailed list, or edited code -- whichever is easier would be really appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25421" LastEditorUserId="25421" LastEditDate="2020-11-24T20:26:22.610" LastActivityDate="2020-11-24T20:26:22.610" Title="SKR E3 mini Ender 5 Enclosure cooling system" Tags="|firmware|creality-ender-5|cooling|enclosure|skr-mini-e3|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14870" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14004" CreationDate="2020-11-23T19:31:52.410" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have the exact same issue on my Ender 3 V2, perfect bed level using a dial gauge,&#xA;perfect first layer test prints (printing 9 squares all 1 layer high).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can only get rid of it two ways:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Using a Raft as you have said (annoying).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Adjusting the Z-height Just exactly as the 1st layer finishes. I raise the height by 0.15-0.20 mm (in my case), and the resulting elephant foot is about 80-90 % better.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I recommend you follow Luke Hatfields guide on Ender 3 rework for The X-Gantry, as well as his other sections. Youtube channel &amp;quot;Edge Of Tech&amp;quot; does a decent job covering the rework in video form. Following most of these reworks I have made everything else in the print absolutely perfect, unfortunately EF remains.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25422" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2021-08-11T09:17:22.583" LastActivityDate="2021-08-11T09:17:22.583" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14871" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11145" CreationDate="2020-11-23T23:20:44.833" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know this is a closed and already answered question, but for anybody having an Alfawise EX8 and wanting to update the firmware, I've changed some things in the Marlin bugfix-1.1.x version, so that it now works perfectly with this printer. You can find it &lt;a href=&quot;https://drive.google.com/file/d/1QdZ8sDM-sSaSmGTotOO53IB8hTDuy6Yw/view?usp=sharing&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;. The issue with the display is in the file ultralcd_st7565_u8glib_VIKI.h. The Alfawise EX8 version contains added functions like contrast adjustments and addressing offset, which is not present in the Marlin vanilla version. Also, the original Alfawise firmware grabbed 93% of RAM for global variables, which lead to unstability and in my case to spliting screen and other issues. Now there are only 46% allocated. I suspect the SD alpha sorting of this, as you can clearly see in the advanced config, that it creates an array of more than 200 instances. 37B each. Sooo since I don't usually hoard gcode files on my SD card, I disabled the sorting completelly. Feel free to make adjustments to your own taste!&#xA;Wish you luck and many successful prints! :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: If you are still experiencing glithes with the LCD, try separating the LCD data cable from the extruder cables. I didn't. My bad. Also, don't add capacitors between power inputs. Caused more problems than it solved and yes, I know how to connect an electrolytic capacitor. The firmware is fully functional, working with a MightyCore bootloader inside. There was an issue with the SD print abort function. In the bugfix version, there is a gcode function added to abort SD print and it somehow doesn't work too well with the LCD option. So I removed the gcode from Marlin_main.cpp and brought some things from the original firmware to get it working. Also since the SD was really slow, I had to re-enable the alpha sorting using RAM, but decreased the array size to 30 instances. For the memory it means, that right now it is at 89% Flash and 39% RAM usage. Enjoy! :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;BTW: For anyone saying that you cannot print good prints on this printer, I just printed tha Maker's Muse Gauge and clearance test model, and got it moving completely! That's pretty awesome for a printer that cost me less than 150€.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25424" LastEditorUserId="25424" LastEditDate="2020-11-24T21:55:23.933" LastActivityDate="2020-11-24T21:55:23.933" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14874" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-11-24T21:16:30.007" Score="2" ViewCount="228" Body="&lt;p&gt;The plastic glide rail on which my refrigerator vegetable drawer (bin) traveled recently broke.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rail was part of a large plastic shelf, which is no longer available for purchase.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm thinking about 3D printing a new glide rail and attaching it (somehow) to the existing shelf.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can 3D printing be used for this task to make the repair any easier or more successful to complete than simply cutting a piece of plastic and (again, somehow) affixing it to the shelf?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that the glide rail needs to be somehow attached to the shelf at a 90 degree angle.  I keep using the word &amp;quot;somehow&amp;quot; because I haven't figured out how to make that magic happen yet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="360" LastEditorUserId="360" LastEditDate="2020-11-25T13:56:18.280" LastActivityDate="2021-04-28T09:32:14.740" Title="Is 3D printing suitable for repairing a refrigerator shelf glide rail?" Tags="|repair|applications|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14875" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13393" CreationDate="2020-11-25T12:48:12.760" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought 2 of these kits 4 years ago, and I have been really pleased with the quality of the kits and the results.  Sadly this supplier is no longer trading, as he could not compete with low cost imports from the far east.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have the STL files for the printer kit, so you should be able to print any parts you need.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have created a &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/jsryork/Kossel-XL-printable-parts&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Github repository with a ZIP file of the parts files&lt;/a&gt; I downloaded from the builda3dprinter.eu website.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25444" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-11-27T23:08:21.960" LastActivityDate="2020-11-27T23:08:21.960" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14877" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18346" CreationDate="2020-11-25T16:56:13.433" Score="3" ViewCount="1534" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a number of fairly large printed pieces.  The parts, when assembled, form a very large sword.  (The model is this: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4178060&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4178060&lt;/a&gt;, and is not mine.)  It is about 7' from tip to pommel, and individual pieces are fairly large.  The pieces are already printed, so advice to modify the model geometry to add reinforcements at this point is moot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have printed the pieces in PLA.  I'm not asking for glue recommendations, necessarily, but rather something that could help with adhesion in addition to the glue. I'm concerned that after gluing them together, they won't support their own weight very well. I'm not worried about swinging it, just holding it and hanging it on a wall.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I was very clever, I would have modified the files to add a through-hole that I would've put a pipe through or something, but I didn't think that far ahead.  I could drill holes in the printed pieces, but I don't have a good way to make sure they line up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, what is the best way to add some kind of support to help keep the parts from falling apart? Is there some trick I could use to figure out how to line up drill holes?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7384" LastEditorUserId="7384" LastEditDate="2020-11-25T20:02:33.857" LastActivityDate="2021-11-08T09:00:59.063" Title="What's the best way to connect pieces of a large print after printing?" Tags="|3d-models|post-processing|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14878" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14877" CreationDate="2020-11-25T19:53:55.237" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Previous answer assuming not yet printed&lt;/strong&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to drill holes, print smaller guide holes to guide the drill bit.  The best glue depends on the material.  Printing structures like dovetails makes the connection less dependent on the strength of the glue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Answer with the parts already printed&lt;/strong&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The best way to align drilled holes is probably to glue the pieces together first, then drill the holes.  Otherwise, you need a method to clamp the pieces together or do precision drilling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15075" LastEditorUserId="15075" LastEditDate="2020-11-25T20:08:09.650" LastActivityDate="2020-11-25T20:08:09.650" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14879" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="936" CreationDate="2020-11-25T19:58:28.287" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;As for me...  I used the oil I use to lubricate my Trombone slide!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13383" LastActivityDate="2020-11-25T19:58:28.287" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14880" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7987" CreationDate="2020-11-25T21:06:48.930" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have some experience in the textile industry and it is known that items, whether piece goods or yarn, which are black (for most fibers) it is likely an over-dye; colors that failed to match the color that was intended, goes into a pile for black re-dye.  It is easy for most fibers to over-dye something black.  I imagine that for filaments it is something similar.  My experience with black filaments is generally one where black breaks easier, and generally you can find PLA on sale if it is black.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25448" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-11-25T22:38:16.447" LastActivityDate="2020-11-25T22:38:16.447" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14881" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14885" CreationDate="2020-11-25T21:22:11.817" Score="1" ViewCount="2465" Body="&lt;p&gt;When trying to solve the issue described &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/14738&quot;&gt;in this post&lt;/a&gt; I followed the advice in the accepted answer and I found that the timing pulley holes for the Y axis (to &amp;quot;secure&amp;quot; the pulley to the motor shaft) were only half drilled (!!!). I suppose that everything worked fine (even without blind screws) for the first month (probably because the belt was extremely tight) but just a bit of wearing and it started to slip.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While I already replaced the pulley I also contacted the Creality technical support to obtain (at lest! funny...) a reassurance that it didn't possibly stressed the belt or the bearing balls. My experience with their technical support has been &lt;strong&gt;horrible&lt;/strong&gt; and I am still waiting (after weeks) my answer (probably it's easier for them to try to ignore their sloppy assembly and QA) but they sent me a procedure to follow to &amp;quot;debug&amp;quot; any issue with my printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of the pictures in that procedure is this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mUW46.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mUW46.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;What the CR-10S Pro V2 motherboard seems to be&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To my surprise this is the motherboard I have:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UpiGS.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UpiGS.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;What my motherboard looks like&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now I am puzzled. Which one is the correct motherboard for the Creality CR-10S Pro V2 (not the &lt;em&gt;old&lt;/em&gt; version but the &lt;em&gt;newer&lt;/em&gt; V2)?&#xA;Is this just [another] sloppy mistake from the technical support or I do have the &lt;em&gt;wrong&lt;/em&gt; motherboard? Differences with V1 are not many then I suppose it could even work with the old one...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25217" LastEditorUserId="25217" LastEditDate="2020-11-25T23:41:12.287" LastActivityDate="2020-11-26T14:48:03.500" Title="Is this the correct motherboard for my Creality CR-10S Pro V2?" Tags="|creality-cr-10|part-identification|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14885" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14881" CreationDate="2020-11-26T14:48:03.500" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The board that's installed in your machine appears to be the Creality v2.4 / v2.4.1 board, which is the correct board for your printer.&#xA;It is distinguishable by the 30-pin ribbon connector, which is used to connect to the rest of the printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The board in the tech support pictures is the v2.5.2 &amp;quot;silent board&amp;quot;, designed for printers such as the non-Pro CR-10 series. It features two 10-pin connectors for the LCD screen.&#xA;It also uses individual connectors for all functions, so, contrary to the &amp;quot;Pro&amp;quot; boards, is also easily swappable with aftermarket boards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A third type of board (e.g. v1.1.5) exists, mostly for the Ender 3 series of printers, which features only one 10-pin connector for the display.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13171" LastActivityDate="2020-11-26T14:48:03.500" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14887" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6982" CreationDate="2020-11-26T21:39:18.070" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some brands of PLA+ and colors of filament seem to have issues if left in the open air for too long a period.  These then need to be dried back out in a dry box.  The filament seems to be softer and the hobb seems to strip it out more easily causing print failures.  The colors I have had the most troubles with are transparent Blue, Dark Green, and silky Copper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25467" LastActivityDate="2020-11-26T21:39:18.070" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14890" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14874" CreationDate="2020-11-27T18:39:58.450" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is one of those tricky problems where the form of the repair and the materials that you need have to go hand in hand - you need a way to fix the new rail to the shelf and you need the repair to be strong enough to do it’s job.  Perhaps consider screwing the rail to the shelf - cyanoacrylate adhesive is good for 3D prints but doesn’t like low temperatures.  Once you know how you’re going to fix the rail, the design requirements will be clearer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25415" LastActivityDate="2020-11-27T18:39:58.450" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14892" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14895" CreationDate="2020-11-28T01:47:25.993" Score="2" ViewCount="863" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to subtract a polyhedron from a cube, but it is not working (the cube remains solid). However, I can see the cut-out poly in preview mode (but not after a full render).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Preview&lt;/strong&gt; -- poly cutout shows on the top (and bottom).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Zk1Z5.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Zk1Z5.png&quot; alt=&quot;preview&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Rendered&lt;/strong&gt; -- poly cutout not visible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cofDh.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cofDh.png&quot; alt=&quot;rendered&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Poly Exploded&lt;/strong&gt; -- pulled the poly to the right to show its shape.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VILrM.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VILrM.png&quot; alt=&quot;poly exploded&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Code&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;size = 30;&#xA;wall = 3;&#xA;wall_x2 = wall * 2;&#xA;nubGap = .125;&#xA;nubHeight = 8;&#xA;nubOffset = wall + nubGap;&#xA;xCutoutSize = size - wall_x2;&#xA;yCutoutSize = size - wall_x2;&#xA;cutoutLowerY = nubHeight + nubGap;&#xA;cutoutUpperOffset = nubOffset + wall;&#xA;    &#xA;difference() {&#xA;    cube([size, size, size]);&#xA;    &#xA;    translate([wall, wall, 0]) {&#xA;        polyhedron(&#xA;            points = [&#xA;                [0, 0, -10],&#xA;                [xCutoutSize, 0, -10],&#xA;                [xCutoutSize, yCutoutSize, -10],&#xA;                [0, yCutoutSize, -10],&#xA;        &#xA;                [0, 0, cutoutLowerY],&#xA;                [xCutoutSize, 0, cutoutLowerY],&#xA;                [xCutoutSize, yCutoutSize, cutoutLowerY],&#xA;                [0, yCutoutSize, cutoutLowerY],&#xA;        &#xA;                [cutoutUpperOffset, cutoutUpperOffset, size],&#xA;                [xCutoutSize - cutoutUpperOffset, cutoutUpperOffset, size],&#xA;                [xCutoutSize - cutoutUpperOffset, yCutoutSize - cutoutUpperOffset, size],&#xA;                [cutoutUpperOffset, yCutoutSize - cutoutUpperOffset, size]&#xA;            ],&#xA;            faces = [&#xA;                [0, 1, 2], [2, 3, 0],     // bottom&#xA;                &#xA;                [0, 1, 4], [1, 4, 5],     // side A&#xA;                [1, 2, 5], [2, 5, 6],     // side B&#xA;                [2, 3, 6], [3, 6, 7],     // side C&#xA;                [3, 0, 7], [0, 7, 4],     // side D&#xA;                &#xA;                [4, 5,  8], [5,   8,  9], // slope A&#xA;                [5, 6,  9], [6,   9, 10], // slope B&#xA;                [6, 7, 10], [7,  10, 11], // slope C&#xA;                [7, 4, 11], [4,  11,  8], // slope D&#xA;                &#xA;                [8, 9, 10], [10, 11,  8]  // top&#xA;            ]&#xA;        );&#xA;    };&#xA;};&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25482" LastActivityDate="2020-11-28T12:42:04.410" Title="OpenSCAD not rendering polyhedron" Tags="|3d-design|openscad|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14893" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14892" CreationDate="2020-11-28T04:10:56.853" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the polyhedron surface and top surface of the cube are exactly coplanar, which they seem to be, it won't work; OpenSCAD operates numerically rather than analytically and which is &amp;quot;inside&amp;quot; or &amp;quot;outside&amp;quot; the other is subject to numerical instability. Whenever using differences you need to make the object being subtracted extend by at least some small epsilon outside the surfact of the object you're subtracting from.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2020-11-28T04:10:56.853" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14894" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14938" CreationDate="2020-11-28T09:08:53.427" Score="0" ViewCount="385" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BJKvJ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BJKvJ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;Ender 5 Pro prints are very uneven on base of the model.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this example I printed an SD card dummy but it is not even flat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having a glass bed it is super strange to see this kind of behaviour.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are parameters in Cura.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;M92 X80.00 Y80.00 Z800.00 E94.5 ;Setup step mm&#xA;M201 X500.00 Y500.00 Z100.00 E5000.00 ;Setup machine max acceleration&#xA;M203 X500.00 Y500.00 Z10.00 E50.00 ;Setup machine max feedrate&#xA;M204 P500.00 R1000.00 T500.00 ;Setup Print/Retract/Travel acceleration&#xA;M205 X8.00 Y8.00 Z0.40 E5.00 ;Setup Jerk&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks in advance, I tried quite a few calibrations but nothing helped so far.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25488" LastActivityDate="2020-12-04T13:37:29.027" Title="Ender 5 Pro bent/curved print on base" Tags="|creality-ender-5|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14895" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14892" CreationDate="2020-11-28T12:13:23.680" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Usually when there's an overlap in two objects during a difference action, F6 render will resolve the problem. There's something more than that involved here, as reducing the height of the cube creates a non-manifold object from the difference. user R..'s answer has merit but is not going to solve the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Isolating the cube from the code and exporting the result as an STL allows me to determine that the faces are generated in a manner preventing a proper difference action:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QEtXM.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QEtXM.png&quot; alt=&quot;meshmixer image&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This image from meshmixer shows the faces have inverted normals. The order of the points are critical when describing a polyhedron. From the wiki page for &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikibooks.org/wiki/OpenSCAD_User_Manual/The_OpenSCAD_Language#polyhedron&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;OpenSCAD&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is arbitrary which point you start with, but all faces must have&#xA;points ordered in the same direction . OpenSCAD prefers clockwise when&#xA;looking at each face from outside inward. The back is viewed from the&#xA;back, the bottom from the bottom, etc. Another way to remember this&#xA;ordering requirement is to use the right-hand rule. Using your&#xA;right-hand, stick your thumb up and curl your fingers as if giving the&#xA;thumbs-up sign, point your thumb into the face, and order the points&#xA;in the direction your fingers curl.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: I reversed some of the points, haphazardly and luckily picked the correct ones:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;        faces = [&#xA;            [0, 1, 2], [2, 3, 0],     // bottom&#xA;            &#xA;            [4, 1, 0], [1, 4, 5],     // side A&#xA;            [5, 2, 1], [2, 5, 6],     // side B&#xA;            [6, 3, 2], [3, 6, 7],     // side C&#xA;            [7, 0, 3], [0, 7, 4],     // side D&#xA;            &#xA;            [8, 5, 4], [5,   8,  9], // slope A&#xA;            [9, 6, 5], [6,   9, 10], // slope B&#xA;            [10, 7, 6], [7,  10, 11], // slope C&#xA;            [11, 4, 7], [4,  11,  8], // slope D&#xA;            &#xA;            [10, 9, 8], [8, 11, 10]  // top&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GWBMo.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GWBMo.png&quot; alt=&quot;rendered code&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastEditorUserId="854" LastEditDate="2020-11-28T12:42:04.410" LastActivityDate="2020-11-28T12:42:04.410" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14896" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-11-29T00:55:11.990" Score="1" ViewCount="2504" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd like to print PET on an Ender 3 v2, but I see that some people recommend upgrading the hotend because it will melt the teflon filament feeder tube. I'm not sure if the hotend will even get hot enough to use PET, even though it's listed in the specs for the printer.  I didn't know Teflon could melt, if that's the case, should I get rid of my teflon cooking pans?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What is the max temp range for a stock Ender 3 V2?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What material tube should I upgrade to?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What are the benefits of an all metal hotend as far as hotter temps?  Why is that the recommended solution for PETG printing?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5576" LastActivityDate="2020-11-29T02:19:20.633" Title="What material should I upgrade the teflon tube to?" Tags="|creality-ender-3|hotend|petg|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14897" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14896" CreationDate="2020-11-29T02:19:20.633" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Ender 3 (original, pro, or v2) does not need any modifications/upgrades to print PETG. Temperatures of 230-235 °C are sufficient for PETG and well under the 250 °C that's not recommended to be exceeded on a machine with PTFE lining all the way to the hotend. PTFE doesn't melt above these temperatures, but it does start to break down and release chemicals that can be harmful. Note that teflon pans achieve temperatures comparable to or exceeding what you'd print PETG at all the time while cooking, and especially if you burn food. The smoke point of peanut oil is roughly the same as the temperature you print PETG at.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you did want to change it (I wouldn't recommend this) there is no different tube you can &amp;quot;upgrade&amp;quot; to. Instead, users who want to be able to print higher temperatures switch to an &amp;quot;all metal&amp;quot; hotend, which means the tube doesn't extend through the heatbreak to the hotend, but instead stops in the cold part, with a metal passageway for the rest of the filament's path to the hotend/nozzle. You still use the same PTFE before that, though. All-metal hotends are not necessarily an upgrade; they're a tradeoff. The PTFE tube all the way through is a highly desirable feature because it has very low friction and no ridge/boundary between materials for semi-molten filament to get caught on when retracting and unretracting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2020-11-29T02:19:20.633" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14898" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14964" CreationDate="2020-11-29T10:04:39.287" Score="3" ViewCount="356" Body="&lt;p&gt;(Ender 3 Pro with Bigtreetech Board and Touchscreen, BlTouch)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hello everybody,&#xA;I want to print something for my family but the hotend gets clogged every time in the same part of the print. I tried:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Different Nozzles&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Different Filaments&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I cleaned every Part&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The E-Steps are set right&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The retraction Setting didn't make a difference&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The Extruder Position is perfect&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I tried different speeds&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Everything else you find on Google with a clogged hot end.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The most odd thing about this is that the problem occurs at the same place every time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On Flat surfaces are some anomalies, that wasn't there when I had the normal clogged nozzle problems (from: retraction settings, dirty Printer, e-steps false). I think it has something to do with the anomalies.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another thing I don't get behind are missing layers after the layer change,&#xA;even when I don't use retraction at all.&#xA;In The Picture from the side you see the Support with the Layer change problem.&#xA;After around about Layer 40  there is one Layer missing and the next Layers are not connected anymore.&#xA;From the top you see the Surface anomaly I don't know how to describe.&#xA;It would be helpful to know what I did wrong. I am sure I did Everything against a clogged Nozzel but I can be Wrong so tips in this direction are Helpful too.&#xA;I am quite new to 3D Printing(2 Months) I had the usual clogged Nozzel Problem Solved and It Worked Perfectly. I Tried to Fix It with the same Solutions and Nothing Helped, so I think it is a different problem.&#xA;Sry for my bad English I am from Germany.&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mA9br.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mA9br.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oKgpD.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oKgpD.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have an Ender 3 Pro with Bigtreetech Board, Touchscreen and BlTouch which I use together with [insert slicer here]. I print in [PLA/ABS/PETG/Whatever Material] at [Extruder temperature] °C. The print bed is set to [Bed Temperature] °C. I use a print cooling fan at [whatever] %. The layer height I set to 0.[x] mm, the line width [line width/extrusion width] from the 0.[x] mm nozzle. The Printing Speed is set to [x] mm/s for walls and [x] mm/s for infill. My retraction is [off / [X] mm at [x] mm/s].&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25491" LastEditorUserId="4922" LastEditDate="2021-04-21T13:24:05.840" LastActivityDate="2021-04-25T12:35:39.390" Title="I can't figure out how to name this problem or solve it" Tags="|print-quality|creality-ender-3|hotend|bigtreetech|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14900" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16206" CreationDate="2020-11-29T19:48:50.620" Score="3" ViewCount="1105" Body="&lt;p&gt;Given a .SCAD file which contains some modules, how can I execute one of those modules from the command line?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;example.scad&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;module One() { ... }&#xA;module Two() { ... }&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;render.sh&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;openscad -q -o one.stl --module One example.scad&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that there is no &lt;code&gt;--module&lt;/code&gt; option, but that is what I'm attempting to do. The workaround would be to make another .SCAD file e.g. &lt;code&gt;one.scad&lt;/code&gt; which includes &lt;code&gt;example.scad&lt;/code&gt;, and simply calls &lt;code&gt;One();&lt;/code&gt; within and render that file from the shell file. But this is not ideal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25482" LastActivityDate="2022-11-12T17:54:33.583" Title="Export STL from OpenSCAD command line, calling module within script?" Tags="|openscad|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14901" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-11-29T21:54:55.390" Score="0" ViewCount="80" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently leveled my bed on my Monoprice Select Mini v2 and tried printing this object with family:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pentagonal Hexacontahedron Bracelet by mathgrrl - Thingiverse&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:288182&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:288182&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The symptoms were as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the print footings did not stick to the bed&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;during the print some of the footings looked misshapen&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Eventually everything lost cohesion and looked like a mess of silly string&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the insulating tape on the heating block started to come off&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Immediately after the insulating tape came off we aborted the print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are the steps we followed to convert, slice and print the object.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;We loaded the STL file into Ultimaker Cura 4.8.0, using a preset in the wizard for the Monoprice Select Mini v2&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;We opened the STL for the small bracelet, chose ‘Slice’, and copied the resulting .gcode to a microSD.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;We popped the SD into the printer, preheated the nozzle and extruded a small amount of PLA (we used the PLA for a demo print of a cat hours earlier and it worked great for the demo)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;We went to print and chose the .gcode for the small bracelet and let it start to operate.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The heating settings for the bracelet .gcode from Cura were a bit different different than those used for the demo cat .gcode that came with the machine. Both had the nozzle heated to 190 °C. The bed heating setting for the bracelet was 5 degrees hotter than the cat at 65 °C.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any tips are appreciated. I don’t know what happened or if it possible to print this object successfully with the Monoprice Select Mini v2.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25502" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-12-31T07:38:21.273" LastActivityDate="2020-12-31T07:38:21.273" Title="Retuning a very delicate and tricky print after print failure" Tags="|print-quality|heated-bed|heat-management|monoprice-select-mini|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14902" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-11-29T23:35:20.467" Score="0" ViewCount="183" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I got the SKR mini E3 for my Ender 5 after hearing all the positive reviews.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When it arrives I plug everything in, make sure it's secure and test the axis... they all worked correctly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I then tested auto home... everything worked.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I then tested the heating... everything worked again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, I go to do a test print-- it heats up and then homes. When it is finished heating, the hot end assembly starts moving slowly until it goes into the corner and contacts the side of the printer. Obviously, I turned it off right away.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Currently, I am uncertain whether it is a firmware issue, a board issue, or something else? If anyone could please help me solve this, that would be greatly appreciated!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25421" LastActivityDate="2023-01-19T18:03:15.373" Title="Ender 5 SKR Mini E3 -- After Heating the Hot End Assembly Runs into the side of the printer" Tags="|marlin|firmware|creality-ender-5|skr-mini-e3|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14903" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14900" CreationDate="2020-11-30T04:35:45.003" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;OpenSCAD doesn't have such an option on the command line, but the general idiom I believe you want to use is have &lt;code&gt;.scad&lt;/code&gt; source files which are modules include invocations of the module(s) at the top-level controllable by variables you can set on the command line or GUI customizer interface. Any such invocations will be ignored if the file is used (via &lt;code&gt;use&lt;/code&gt; directive) in another file so they don't hurt its status as a library and make it easier to preview/test. So for example you could have:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;wantOne = false;&#xA;if (wantOne) One();&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and then set &lt;code&gt;wantOne&lt;/code&gt; to &lt;code&gt;true&lt;/code&gt; from the command line.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2020-11-30T04:35:45.003" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14904" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14902" CreationDate="2020-11-30T05:50:29.803" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I found an answer on Reddit when I asked the same question: It actually had to do with the homing -- basically, it was starting at 220, 220 instead of 0,0, which resulted in when the print started for it to head straight into the corner. In order to counter this, I had to change some of the firmware. Everything works now. Thank you for your help!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25421" LastActivityDate="2020-11-30T05:50:29.803" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14906" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14898" CreationDate="2020-11-30T09:07:58.677" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm an Ender 3 Pro user and I've been through almost every problem this machine has.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you are on original hotend and Bowden style extruder, then first try the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3203831&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;hot end PTFE fix&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol start=&quot;2&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;What the picture may show is a temperature too low, especially on these bad layers. Raise the temperature like you have tried (200 °C is good).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;To avoid prints being knocked off the bed, try brim (it's in bed-adhesion in Cura), most people don't use raft anymore. What brim does is to add addition loops on the first layer of your prints and make it sticks as good as possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;No raft, add brim. Then disable Z-hop, enable combing in Cura.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These steps should be able to mitigate the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19888" LastEditorUserId="19888" LastEditDate="2021-04-25T12:35:39.390" LastActivityDate="2021-04-25T12:35:39.390" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14907" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1505" CreationDate="2020-11-30T11:02:40.630" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If a GCODE line is about 30 characters (which is about the norm), you can send at most 420 of them per second at 115200 bps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If each GCODE prints 0.15 mm (for example in arcs), you would be limited to 63 mm/s in arcs/circles (straight lines are not an issue).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If that's limiting for you, then you should find a way to set 250 kbps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You don't mention the firmware you use, but if you use Klipper, which compresses data over the serial line, connection speed is not an issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2338" LastEditorUserId="2338" LastEditDate="2020-11-30T20:34:00.030" LastActivityDate="2020-11-30T20:34:00.030" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14909" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-11-30T12:34:36.950" Score="1" ViewCount="1013" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a CR-10 S5. I was very happy with the way it was printing but all of a sudden it cant get past 1 hour of printing without the filament breaking in the extruder. I have caught it in the act, it will be printing fine then the extruder will begin to click. I paused the print which lifts the hot end off the build plate. I can easily pull the filament out of the hot end and the Bowden tube, it will still click in the extruder. I release the clamp on the extruder and pull a few inches of filament through, cut it off and feed it back into the Bowden tube and hotend. Resume the print and it will continue printing fine until the extruder gear starts skipping again (maybe another 10 minutes in).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I pull the filament out of the Bowden tube after it has jammed I notice the end of the filament closest to the hotend is still nice and round, but as it gets closer to the extruder there are teeth marks in the filament and it is also flat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;First few layers go down good - extruder doesn't start clicking until ~ 1 hour into print.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I have tried releasing the pressure on the extruder clamp - which leads to the gear slipping on the filament and wearing it away until it breaks.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I have tried with different filament (one brand new fresh from packet) - same result, I have tried drying the filament in a filament drier - same result.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I have replaced the nozzle&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I have pulled the PTFE fittings from the extruder and hot end and nothing is blocked.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The Bowden tube is pushed fully into the hot end and extruder.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I have checked the extruder steps/mm and is okay.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The printer is in an enclosure and my ambient temperature is usually 30-40 °C, I'm wondering if the filament is getting heated up to the point where it is soft enough for the extruder gear to damage it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Printing at 50 mm/s and 215 °C PLA , really lost where to go from here...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25516" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-11-30T12:50:15.960" LastActivityDate="2020-11-30T12:50:15.960" Title="CR-10 Extruder Clicking / Filament jammed in Extruder?" Tags="|pla|filament|extruder|creality-cr-10|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14911" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14901" CreationDate="2020-11-30T21:23:12.633" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The print is extremely challenging, as it has a lot of thin diameter items growing up, a lot of overhangs and a rather small surface to hold to the bed. So you need a Brim and support:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As OP found, a &lt;a href=&quot;https://all3dp.com/2/3d-printing-brim-when-should-you-use-it/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Brim&lt;/a&gt; is a setting that adds extra material in the first layer around the print to increase adhesion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://all3dp.com/1/3d-printing-support-structures/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Support Structures&lt;/a&gt; are to give an overhang something to rest upon. Removing them can be tricky, but they make some things printable at all. Like this bracelet. You'll have to finetune your settings, best by learning with less complex models first or mimicking the settings of others that made the bracelet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The thin vertical parts can make the print fail nevertheless - you can possibly fix some of the vertical adhesion issues by printing slower. If these parts are too thin, you might be unable to print them at all with a 0.4 mm nozzle! As a rule of thumb, it is &lt;em&gt;really&lt;/em&gt; tricky to print pillars slimmer than 2.5 nozzle diameters and almost impossible to print them nicely under 2 nozzle diameters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;My settings&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I print my PLA at 200 °C, the bed at 60 °C, but then again I don't have a glass bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2020-11-30T22:17:23.273" LastActivityDate="2020-11-30T22:17:23.273" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14912" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14932" CreationDate="2020-12-01T03:29:08.103" Score="2" ViewCount="609" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am relatively new to 3D printing, but have some background in industrial equipment and test machines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An important part of printer setup is getting the extruder mm/step rate configured correctly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was wondering if anybody has done any research into closed loop drive of the filament where the feedback to close the loop comes from a knurled idler on the filament.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This would mean factors such as drive slippage and different material stiffness could be automatically compensated for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Going one step further the feedback wheel could be placed at the hotend of Bowden extruder systems negating the need to tune in retract settings for different materials as the closed loop system can just pull back however much material is required to get 1-2 mm as measured at the hot end.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have seen there are readily available steppers with drive boards built in for closed loop control, I would imagine it would be a relatively simple task to remove the hall effect sensor from one of these boards and mount it remotely to read off a measuring wheel instead of the drive shaft.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had a bit of a search but couldn't find anything on this topic online, is this something that has already been looked into and if it hasn't are there any significant reasons why this shouldn't work to improve performance and/or reduce manual tweaking and calibration required.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25257" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-12-01T09:35:06.790" LastActivityDate="2020-12-04T20:58:19.750" Title="Can closed loop steppers be used for extruders?" Tags="|extruder|stepper-driver|stepper|closed-loop|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14915" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14898" CreationDate="2020-12-01T09:30:28.820" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use the older 2018 model of the Ender3, and so far I have had only to replace some consumables and my extruder for an aluminium one, some nozzles, and one time a fresh Bowden, and I am golden.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To me, I see 2 problems:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You might print too cold. I print PLA at 200 °C, some brands I do print a little hotter.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You measured your extrusion rate. That is wrong. You need to calculate your steps per millimeter!&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because I don't know your printer, you need to look at how to calculate your proper steps/mm. I assume you have the &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/3353/calculating-extruder-motor-steps-for-1-mm&quot;&gt;Typical NEMA17 motor with a 1.8° per step (=200 Steps per rotation) and 16 Microsteps&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$d=2\times r$&lt;/span&gt; diameter of the push-gear = 2*Radius&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$C=d\times\pi$&lt;/span&gt; Is the Circumference&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$Step = 1.8°$&lt;/span&gt; &amp;amp; &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$Ms=16$&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$S=\frac {\frac{360°}{Step}\times Ms}C =\frac {200\times Ms}C =\frac {3200}{d\times\pi}$&lt;/span&gt; Steps/mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a typical gear of about 10.5 to 11 mm diameter, that gives numbers between 97 and 92.5 steps/mm. Use your calculator to establish the minimum and maximum numbers first by using the top and bottom of the gear. Then you can test for the correct number in between these numbers. Depending on how soft the material is, the place for the effective gear diameter shifts: softer materials are closer to the high steps/mm number, harder ones more to the low steps/mm end.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2020-12-09T17:08:08.463" LastActivityDate="2020-12-09T17:08:08.463" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14916" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-12-01T15:55:36.317" Score="1" ViewCount="790" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a FLSUN printer: &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B071NZSF33&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;3D Printer DIY Kit Auto Leveling Cube Full Metal Square Large printing size 260X260X350 with heated Bed Precision&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I plan on using PrusaSlicer as slicer (found it in Ubuntu.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I now need to pick a Firmware Type in the setup screen. Which one should I select? I vaguely  remember it should be RepRap, but I'm not sure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QP85g.png&quot; alt=&quot;PrusaSlicer Configuration Wizard&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25499" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-12-01T17:40:59.897" LastActivityDate="2020-12-01T21:07:30.533" Title="What firmware type to use for FLSUN 3D printer in PrusaSlicer setup?" Tags="|firmware|prusaslicer|flsun-3d-cube|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14918" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-12-01T21:32:31.597" Score="0" ViewCount="144" Body="&lt;p&gt;Recently, my Ender 3 printer is giving these bad quality prints as shown in the image below. Something in common in all these bad prints is that they only fail in a particular section. The print looks good on the rest of the parts. I'm having trouble on how to find people with similar problems as I don't know what type of failure this is called. I would really appreciate any suggestions on how to fix this or if anyone experienced the same issue and managed to solve this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mG1r9.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mG1r9.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CrNfy.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CrNfy.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OfdVx.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OfdVx.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25537" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-12-01T23:03:46.027" LastActivityDate="2020-12-01T23:03:46.027" Title="Ender 3 Inconsistent Bad Prints" Tags="|print-quality|creality-ender-3|troubleshooting|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14919" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-12-01T21:34:17.260" Score="1" ViewCount="161" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought a set of 5 &lt;a href=&quot;https://a.aliexpress.com/_mL7Tt7b&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;stepper motors&lt;/a&gt; from Trianglelab's official Aliexpress shop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XZDW8.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XZDW8.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Only one of these motors was given any kind of protective bubble wrap for shipping. The contents of the package shifted in transit and several of the motors got banged up with two of them suffering visible damage to their wire insulation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I contacted Trianglelabs and was told to fix it myself for \$0.03 with a wire or to add some tape. This repair advice was accompanied with the weightiest assumptions of my personal expertise that I have ever received.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At this point I'm not planning to keep them if this is how the company does business; shaving pennies on shipping and telling the buyer to fix it themselves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But all of this brought up an interesting question. How can I reliably test my stepper motors for basic functionality and measured compliance with the rated specifications?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23492" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-12-05T20:17:19.173" LastActivityDate="2020-12-05T23:07:44.107" Title="How can I test that my stepper motors for functionality and compliance?" Tags="|stepper-driver|stepper|repair|part-testing|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14920" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7931" CreationDate="2020-12-02T07:15:30.090" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Could be a dirty nozzle and temperature too high. When the head changes direction on the corner, the nozzle wipes off burnt PLA. This might explain why there are no dark marks on the long runs and only the corners.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Heat nozzle up and clean with acetone and then see if the problem persists.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25540" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2020-12-02T08:19:03.567" LastActivityDate="2020-12-02T08:19:03.567" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14921" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2020-12-02T11:35:10.310" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2020-12-02T11:35:10.310" LastActivityDate="2020-12-02T11:35:10.310" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14922" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2020-12-02T11:35:10.310" Score="0" Body="Belt Printers, aka Printer Mills differ from normal printers in their geometry and functioning: The bed of such a printer mill, the Y direction, does move in one direction only during printing, while the printhead moves on a tilted plane in both X and Z. Models need a special slicer to be made for Belt Printers and design constraints are different due to the non-cartesian coordinate system." OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2020-12-02T11:35:10.310" LastActivityDate="2020-12-02T11:35:10.310" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14923" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-12-02T11:53:44.957" Score="1" ViewCount="96" Body="&lt;h1&gt;Background: What's a Belt Printer's Coordinate system?&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For &amp;quot;normal&amp;quot; Cartesian (Portal, Cube) or Cylindrical (Delta) coordinate printers, the same &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6726/what-special-considerations-must-be-taken-when-designing-parts-for-3d-printing&quot;&gt;Design Consideratons&lt;/a&gt; are to be kept in mind. But on a Belt Printer aka Printer Mill, the conversion from cartesian design space to cartesian or cylindrical printer coordinates is not applied in the same fashion, and as such some considerations based on subsequent laying down of full levels do not apply the same: While there is a common alignment of two axis, the third axis is tilted forward and the printhead does move in the angled X'Y'-Plane. While the Belt moves only in one direction, never backwards, there is a component of negative movement in that direction by lifting the printhead...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The formula for how the new coordinate system is translated to is thus as follows &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$$X'=-X$$&lt;/span&gt; &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$$Y'=\cos(\alpha)Z$$&lt;/span&gt; &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$$Z'=Y-\sin(\alpha)Z$$&lt;/span&gt; To Illustrate this: The Red-Green-Blue is the orthonormal cartesian coordinate system. and the Magenta-Yellow-Cyan is the coordinate system the printer moves in:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KuxCP.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KuxCP.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The most common angle for currently available designs is 45° as in the &lt;a href=&quot;https://blackbelt-3d.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Blackbelt&lt;/a&gt; or the coming &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.creality3dofficial.com/de/blogs/news/updates-creality-cr-30-the-3dprintmill-infinite-z-belt-3d-printer-coming-to-kickstarter-soon&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Creality Belt Printer (pre-production in December 2020)&lt;/a&gt;, making the math for the slicer somewhat easier as &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$\sin(45°)=\cos(45°)$&lt;/span&gt;. As a result of all the math, there is a Cura Derivate, the &lt;a href=&quot;https://blackbelt-3d.com/download-area/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;BB Cura 3.6.2&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Question&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What impact does this movement pattern of laying down in an angle upwards have on considerations that have to be taken &lt;strong&gt;in the design stage&lt;/strong&gt; of a model for 3D printing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2020-12-03T13:47:59.420" LastActivityDate="2021-05-02T16:18:26.807" Title="What effects does the non-carthesian coordinate system have on the Part-design process for printing with a belt printer?" Tags="|3d-design|belt-printer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14924" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14923" CreationDate="2020-12-02T13:05:54.653" Score="1" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The first and most important design consideration is the &lt;strong&gt;overhang&lt;/strong&gt;. Normally, when designing a part, you would make considerations based on the fact that gravity will act on the part from the &amp;quot;bottom&amp;quot; towards the top. As a result, when I am designing a part, I am always mindful of the fact that anything which protrudes outside of the intended printing base will be subject to &amp;quot;overhang&amp;quot; forces. Therefore, based on the layer height and nozzle diameter, there is a limit to the maximum overhang angle that can be serviced by the printer. Just as a side note, printers that co-extrude dissolvable supports, do not have overhang problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Additionally there are structural considerations with the laminations being at an angle, especially with holes that are intended to have &lt;strong&gt;heat-set inserts&lt;/strong&gt;. Normally, when applying an insert the pressure is perpendicular to the layers. However, depending on where the hole is needed and how the part was printed, the inserting process could promote delamination of the layers and early part failure. It could be even worse with holes that are being threaded subsequent to printing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Because the first few layers are going down at an angle, the &lt;strong&gt;layer adhesion&lt;/strong&gt; will be unknown.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At design time, all you would need to do is keep an eye on those overhangs. I'd start all models on a plane that was at a 45degree angle. That way I can see the effect of having it being printed on its side rather than perpendicular to the bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&amp;quot;The first 3D-printed boat, 'built' by the world's largest 3D printer&amp;quot; was also printed with the nozzle at an angle to the bed; and that seems to have worked out well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/vkTALBkjsiE?start=0&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12857" LastEditorUserId="12857" LastEditDate="2020-12-03T15:18:29.810" LastActivityDate="2020-12-03T15:18:29.810" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14925" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3904" CreationDate="2020-12-02T17:59:12.303" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is an issue with homing. It is not synced to the stepper motor so it may occur on something other than a full or half or even quarter step. That said, it always does this so moving up from there, the first little bit may be off but I would expect once the motor runs freely, the error will go away. Also keep in mind with microstepping, you can have 1/16 or 1/32 steps as well. Using the magic number ensures the new position you request is within the limits of the stepper/controller to reach. Its like rounding numbers. if you don't, as you increment, the numbers will always be consistant. If you round, the numbers will dither around.&#xA;At least thats my $45 (inflation) and stickin to it.&#xA;Good luck everyone and have fun.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25544" LastActivityDate="2020-12-02T17:59:12.303" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14926" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-12-02T18:17:18.167" Score="1" ViewCount="2971" Body="&lt;p&gt;This question is related to:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/8153/how-to-set-z-probe-boundary-limits-in-firmware-when-using-automatic-bed-leveling&quot;&gt;How to set Z-probe boundary limits in firmware when using automatic bed leveling?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am trying to figure out how to set UBL In Marlin to cover as much bed as possible.&#xA;So My bed is size of 300x255 mm&#xA;&lt;code&gt;#define NOZZLE_TO_PROBE_OFFSET { -34, -1, -2 }&lt;/code&gt;&#xA;My Probe can physically cover 255 mm (whole Y) and 272 mm (of X size)&#xA;Let's give it a bit of margin of the 0Y -&amp;gt; 3 mm and from 0X -3 mm&#xA;So idea is to cover X from 3 mm to 269 mm and Y from 3 mm -&amp;gt; 252 mm&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How should I set&#xA;&lt;code&gt;#define PROBING_MARGIN&lt;/code&gt;&#xA;and&#xA;&lt;code&gt;#define MESH_INSET&lt;/code&gt;&#xA;so it covers my bed and probes 100 points ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried different options, most of the time it stops at 57/100 and printer HALTs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Only setting I got it working with was:&#xA;&lt;code&gt;#define PROBING_MARGIN 30&lt;/code&gt;&#xA;&lt;code&gt;#define MESH_INSET 50&lt;/code&gt;&#xA;But that does not cover whole bed. I am struggling to understand how it's calculated.&#xA;Other settings I found was commented as below.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#if PROBE_SELECTED &amp;amp;&amp;amp; !IS_KINEMATIC&#xA;  // #define PROBING_MARGIN_LEFT PROBING_MARGIN&#xA;  // #define PROBING_MARGIN_RIGHT PROBING_MARGIN&#xA;  // #define PROBING_MARGIN_FRONT PROBING_MARGIN&#xA;  // #define PROBING_MARGIN_BACK PROBING_MARGIN&#xA;#endif&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any suggestions ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25545" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-12-03T23:27:30.057" LastActivityDate="2023-03-26T23:38:58.333" Title="UBL Marlin settings to cover whole bed" Tags="|marlin|bed-leveling|bltouch|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14927" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10003" CreationDate="2020-12-02T22:07:16.507" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I disassembled the hotend side of the Bowden setup to check for deterioration (and found an actual &lt;em&gt;hole&lt;/em&gt; in the tube!) for the first time since getting a decent caliper, and after making a clean cut to remove the damaged part, measured the inner diameter at 2.19-2.21 mm. I'm not sure if that's enlarged from wear or the original size it was manufactured as, but either way this suggests that upgrade to Capricorn at 1.95 mm (±0.05 mm) inner diameter should make a significant difference vs my current Bowden tube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-12-02T22:47:15.157" LastActivityDate="2020-12-02T22:47:15.157" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14928" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14967" CreationDate="2020-12-03T04:30:44.787" Score="0" ViewCount="3480" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking to put a UV-blocking clear coating on some of my resin 3D prints.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've tried &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.krylon.ca/products/uvresistant-clear-coating/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;krylon UV-Resistant Clear Coating&lt;/a&gt; but it seemed to react with my print making it softer and easy to break. I'm trying to coat a thin Lithophane so I would rather not make it any softer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any better options for a UV-blocking clear coat for resin 3D prints?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Printer used: AnyCube Photon (dlp) &lt;br&gt;&#xA;Resin used for Print: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.amazon.ca/ELEGOO-UV-Curing-Standard-Photopolymer-Printing/dp/B07JLWPRZJ?ref_=ast_sto_dp&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;ELEGOO ABS-Like 3D Printer Rapid Resin&lt;/a&gt; &lt;br&gt;&#xA;Lithophane maker: &lt;a href=&quot;https://lithophanemaker.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;lithophanemaker&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19914" LastActivityDate="2020-12-07T15:55:53.920" Title="Clear coating resin 3D prints" Tags="|post-processing|resin|uv-printer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14929" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-12-03T08:58:10.123" Score="0" ViewCount="1107" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am just trying to deeply understand relations between those parameters. I am not a noobie, but just trying to be more smart with a printer, instead of changing parameters randomly to see effects on the print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;So Let's Assume Bed is leveled perfectly and all Motor steps are calibrated correctly (X,Y,Z,E)&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do understand some of the correlations e.g.:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;When Flow is too low, on first layer you have to lower Z-Offset to get nice squish, but next layer will be under extruded, because Z-Offset does not apply on any layer except 1st.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;When your flow is too high, you have to bring Z-Offset higher, to get first layer perfect, but then next layers will be over extruded and looks squished too much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, I have calibrated flow, with method of printing shallow cube with 2 walls (perimeters). I've set all line widths to be 0.4 (like my nozzle), so on the measurements I expect wall to be 0.8 (2x0.4), some tutorials says I should aim for 0.82, but for now I left it at 0.8 which was pretty much spot on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Leaving line width's set to 0.4 for all lines and layers, and line height to 0.2 on all layers, I started printing, on the fly I adjusted Z-Offset to get that first layer right. But on every other layer, I had too much squish (over extrusion).&#xA;And that does not fit the things I though I understand. Because now if I lower flow, flow calibration will come wrong.&#xA;I also know that by default in most slicers, layer height and line width are not set to same values for all layers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of Course I could just fiddle around, keep changing those settings and probably I would finally get what I want, but I want to understand what to change and why, so rather than telling me what I am doing wrong, I would like to know how it should work, I am guessing there is How it should work in ideal world, and how it works with budget printers. But I really really want to understand that part of the printing, and maybe there is other complications I am missing in here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25545" LastActivityDate="2020-12-03T08:58:10.123" Title="Flow + Line Width = over / under extrusion, how does that work?" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|bed-leveling|layer-height|prusaslicer|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14932" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14912" CreationDate="2020-12-03T16:39:20.513" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Closed loop steppers like S42B are becoming popular for the spatial axes because compensating for skipped steps is the correct way to recover for those axes. For example, if the nozzle knocks into a warped corner of a print and skips, the right thing to do is compensate, commanding additional steps necessary to get to the commanded location.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is less valuable for extruder, since displacement is not necessarily the target we want to recover, but nozzle pressure. Extruder skip usually occurs when nozzle pressure exceeds the motors ability to drive the filament. Correcting for the skipped steps may result in overcompensating, attempting to drive nozzle pressure up over a longer period of time, since the problem won't clear itself as quickly as it does for the spatial axes. Compensating for skipped steps doesn't recover E errors like they do for X,Y, or Z, since skipped E steps tend to be driven by persistent problems, like low nozzle temp or hotend restrictions, where spatial errors tend to be transient, e.g. hitting a 'speed bump' on the print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An alternative is filament flow sensors like &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.biqu.equipment/products/btt-sfs-v1-0-smart-filament-sensor-detection-stuck-blocking-filament-module&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this BTT Smart Filament Sensor.&lt;/a&gt; It uses a similar feedback mechanism like you suggest. It uses a driven wheel and encoder to send pulses to mainboard. When mainboard stopped getting pulses during commanded moves, it pauses print. Instead of trying to correct in a closed loop fashion, its a human-in-the-loop solution&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20893" LastEditorUserId="20893" LastEditDate="2020-12-04T20:58:19.750" LastActivityDate="2020-12-04T20:58:19.750" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14933" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14934" CreationDate="2020-12-03T19:21:09.300" Score="1" ViewCount="70" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had a failed print lastnight and a glob of pla surrounded the hotend. After heating it up and removing the glob the extruder does not release any significant material. I checked with OctoPrint and the extruder stepper does push filament without the hot end on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After fully heating the hot end I was able to remove the nozzle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I then pushed the previously melted PLA out of the tube and heater. It was discolored in the heater. I then tried to put the nozzle back on and pull the old PLA out of the nozzle but no success there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should the nozzle be left in acetone for a few days  before trying again or how should this be dealt with. The nozzle appears to be blocked.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6033" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-12-04T07:44:22.117" LastActivityDate="2020-12-04T07:44:22.117" Title="After print failure cant extrude PLA" Tags="|all-metal-hotend|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2020-12-04T18:12:59.080" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14934" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14933" CreationDate="2020-12-03T23:21:19.120" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the hotend is okay, consider yourself lucky and consider the nozzle a loss. Aside from specialty items like &lt;a href=&quot;https://olssonruby.com/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;ruby tip&lt;/a&gt; ones, nozzles are a consumable anyway. Even if you can clean it out well enough to get it working again, it's unlikely to extrude as well as a new clean nozzle. Acetone is probably not going to help; PLA does not dissolve in acetone, and while the pigments/additives might be affected by it enough to weaken and deform PLA in a way that could get it to detach, what's clogging your nozzle is likely &lt;em&gt;burnt&lt;/em&gt;/carbonized PLA that's unlikely to be removable by anything that won't also destroy the brass.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't already have replacements on hand, get yourself a pack of 10-20 for $10 or so and be ready to replace when needed. You can also go for a mixed-size pack if you want to try printing fine details with a smaller (0.1-0.3 mm) nozzle or super-fast but rough with a large (0.8-1.0 mm) nozzle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2020-12-03T23:21:19.120" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14935" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14939" CreationDate="2020-12-04T00:58:05.900" Score="4" ViewCount="1005" Body="&lt;p&gt;For the purpose of cleaning, I need an aggressive solvent for cured or partially cured resin that will degrade resin down to its liquid state. I'm looking for one that would eat out specifically resin (I'm using regular Anycubic green resin) in a rapid fashion but would leave painted / metallic parts and screen of my 3D printer without damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25560" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2021-02-04T01:10:21.293" LastActivityDate="2021-04-06T09:01:41.977" Title="Aggressive resin solvent" Tags="|resin|safety|chemistry|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14936" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14935" CreationDate="2020-12-04T02:04:26.997" Score="6" Body="&lt;h1&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Wear Gloves.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Returning is impossible&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Resin does not just &lt;em&gt;harden&lt;/em&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;https://chemistry.stackexchange.com/questions/138945/polymerisation-of-a-uv-curing-resin&quot;&gt;it &lt;strong&gt;polymerizes&lt;/strong&gt; into shape from monomers in a chemical reaction.&lt;/a&gt; That means to break it down, you need to destroy the whole chemistry. There is no solvent that can simply reverse it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Wiping is easy&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As long as the rein is still liquid, you can wipe it off. Then clean the parts with Isopropylic alcohol.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Manual work&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Destroying Resin-Polymers is incredibly hard for most solvents. The most simple solution is usually oddly enough to use physical force. Resins are super brittle and chip off, but might damage the paint coat in the worst case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Thermal shock&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can, you might put your printer in a cold environment and see the resin gaining cracks, as it shrinks slower and less than the metal. Then, putting it back into the heat adds more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastActivityDate="2020-12-04T02:04:26.997" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14937" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14926" CreationDate="2020-12-04T07:57:06.023" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;code&gt;PROBING_MARGIN&lt;/code&gt; and &lt;code&gt;MESH_INSET&lt;/code&gt; make the effective probing area smaller, so if you want to have more area, you should reduce the value of these constants.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As of Marlin 2.x, the probing area isn't defined directly by the firmware configuration settings, but calculated, based on the probe offset settings. The constants you mention are reducing the probing area to keep the carriage/nozzle on the build surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have enough space on your printer to accommodate probing the whole bed, you could minimize the marging and define edges:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#if PROBE_SELECTED &amp;amp;&amp;amp; !IS_KINEMATIC&#xA;  #define PROBING_MARGIN_LEFT PROBING_MARGIN&#xA;  #define PROBING_MARGIN_RIGHT PROBING_MARGIN&#xA;  #define PROBING_MARGIN_FRONT PROBING_MARGIN&#xA;  #define PROBING_MARGIN_BACK PROBING_MARGIN&#xA;#endif&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-12-04T10:28:25.577" LastActivityDate="2020-12-04T10:28:25.577" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14938" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14894" CreationDate="2020-12-04T12:54:29.313" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a classic example of not enough adhesion. Tune bed temperature (usually hotter), use a brim or add an adhesive layer like glue stick or hair spray or a dedicated print adhesion spray.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The question &amp;quot;&lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/q/5234/&quot;&gt;Warping of bottom of print&lt;/a&gt;&amp;quot; has &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/5237&quot;&gt;an accepted answer&lt;/a&gt; that explains in detail how and why this occurs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-12-04T13:37:29.027" LastActivityDate="2020-12-04T13:37:29.027" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14939" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14935" CreationDate="2020-12-04T14:31:43.193" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Concentrated nitric acid will remove all organics, including your skin, wire insulation, etc.  It will work on a glass plate, but the fumes would eventually damage the plastics on your printer unless you remove the glass plate to clean it.  Nitric acid will destroy most build surfaces that are added to glass.  To a lesser extent concentrated sulfuric acid works, but it tends to leave carbon behind.  With these acids it takes special gloves, and I would not even depend too heavily on them always working.  The more concentrated the acids (the less water), the less they will attack metals.   Note: this will quickly strip the paint off metal parts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thus, you probably cannot find an aggressive chemical that is practical for you to use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15075" LastEditorUserId="15075" LastEditDate="2021-04-06T09:01:41.977" LastActivityDate="2021-04-06T09:01:41.977" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14940" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9956" CreationDate="2020-12-04T15:58:42.233" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know this is incredibly old at this point, but in case anyone stumbles upon this post like I did, I wanted to point out that there is no semicolon behind your G29 code, so it's not being read properly&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25568" LastActivityDate="2020-12-04T15:58:42.233" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14941" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14919" CreationDate="2020-12-04T16:12:49.893" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;For the AliExpress part, open a dispute and attach pictures to the dispute and ask for a partial, reasonable discount. It always worked for me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for how to test the motors themselves, it depends on what other hardware you have.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, you could wire the motors to your printer board, and try to issue a &lt;a href=&quot;https://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/G006.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;G6&lt;/a&gt; command to that motor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you find issues while testing the motors, that could be evidence for an even bigger discount, or even full refund if the motor doesn't work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5567" LastEditorUserId="5567" LastEditDate="2020-12-05T05:09:20.353" LastActivityDate="2020-12-05T05:09:20.353" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14942" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11564" CreationDate="2020-12-04T16:23:56.650" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;What improved the stringing issue in my case was increase the amount of retraction on top of the temperature reduction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After each change, I printed one of &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:533472&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;these parts&lt;/a&gt; (see image below), designed specifically for testing stringing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qBM4F.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qBM4F.png&quot; alt=&quot;stringing test&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5567" LastActivityDate="2020-12-04T16:23:56.650" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14943" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14944" CreationDate="2020-12-04T21:09:01.207" Score="2" ViewCount="72" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a specific model for a specific reason. It's shaped like a cylinder and has a recessed bottom. I'm using a Flashforge Adventurer 3 with Flashforge filament. I tried Sunlu silver/silk PLA+ but my Flashforge didn't like it, so I took the recommendation to use Flashforge filament. It worked just fine, but when I put water in it, it has leaks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was printing at 210 with a plate temp at 50. Like I stated, I was excited except for the fact that it's not watertight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since I'm new at this process, my first thought was there must be a food grade spray, or close to food grade, that could seal the model after I touch it up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know if there is one available? Or are there settings that I need to address?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks in advance for any comments.&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Hp1L2.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Hp1L2.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25570" LastActivityDate="2020-12-13T20:45:46.590" Title="Is there a way to make a watertight model? Is there a spray that may work?" Tags="|water-resistance|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14944" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14943" CreationDate="2020-12-04T22:47:24.240" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are several ways to ensure water tightness:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Thicker walls&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have experienced that 3 walls and 5 tops/bottoms with an outer shell of Concentric while the core is lines become watertight enough that leakage is almost none.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Lacquer&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The oldest known method to seal a piece of porous material is a lacquer, followed by glaze. Glazes require to be burned at some thousand degrees, so are out, but lacquers are simple and easy. Basic clear acrylic lacquer can be used to seep into all the cracks and crannies and then harden out. It's easy to apply and cheap from home depot. Polyurethane lacquers also work. If you look to use it for food, ask if the lacquer is food rated in home depot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2020-12-13T20:45:46.590" LastActivityDate="2020-12-13T20:45:46.590" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14946" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14919" CreationDate="2020-12-05T23:07:44.107" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would be far more worried about damage to the wire insulation (i.e. are they nicked/cut at all or just scuffed up?) as that could potentially lead to a short circuit situation against your frame etc.  Assuming no serious cable damage, motors can take a fair amount of mechanical abuse so I'd just put them through their paces with short (a few seconds) forward/backward movements at various speeds listening for any scraping/grinding/other unusual noises indicating any interior damage.  Assuming no issues found, then you could run them for a more extended period of time (5-10 minutes or so periodically changing direction/speed) and if that didn't reveal anything, I wouldn't worry about it.  If it helps, you're probably going to inadvertently abuse them electrically/thermally far more than the shipment did over their service life.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately, when shipping things overseas sometimes the packaging is insufficient (somewhat surprising for Trianglelab as that's one area I generally see people give them high marks for) and bad things can happen during shipment.  I've received all sorts of mangled packages and, aside from the irritation of knowing it was probably avoidable but for the bad packaging, I usually try to be reasonable when tallying up any damage when asking for a refund (partial or otherwise).  If you really feel like a seller fell short, then your best recourse is generally to ding them on their rating if it's really warranted.  Yes, it's irritating, but it will happen from time to time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25234" LastActivityDate="2020-12-05T23:07:44.107" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14947" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14849" CreationDate="2020-12-06T04:47:32.433" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;With the information provided my thought is that your layers are underexposed for their thickness. Each layer is just barely bonding to the layer above it. After being pulled on by layers below eventually one of the layers fails. This is especially likely to happen on a thin part of the print any may need more support if it is followed by wider layers. But I would suggest trying to increase your exposure time first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;option two: it could be your FEP if that has seen too much use it may be time to replace it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://ameralabs.com/blog/key-things-calibrating-resin-3d-printer/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;calibrating a resin 3D printer&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19914" LastActivityDate="2020-12-06T04:47:32.433" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14948" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14830" CreationDate="2020-12-06T05:13:37.313" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Short answer:&lt;/strong&gt; Use a calibration test.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Long answer:&lt;/strong&gt; There are a bunch of calibration test files out there you can run. Ameralabs has a &lt;a href=&quot;https://ameralabs.com/blog/town-calibration-part/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;guide&lt;/a&gt; on how to read one of them and they have a link to download the STL at the bottom of the website. In short, the test file will print with a bunch of features that are hard for the printer to handle (thin posts, angles, small gaps, etc). You can try printing a test file like you would any other file while just guessing at the exposure time. But some printers have a setting just for this where you can run the printer once and print 8 copies of the same object each with a different exposure time. This is the best way to go if you can. either way, you will need to look at the prints when you are done and compare it to what it was supposed to look like. Pick the print that does the best in all types of features on the test.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;here is a video showing how to do the test with multiple prints at once. &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DFKNs16fnc4&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Anycubic Photon S - Resin Exposure Test - R_E_R_F with custom timing&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;running these calibration tests can be useful even when you have a data sheet for your printer, it can account for other variables such a temperature. I don't usually bother but if you want to spend the time to get the best print you can it's a good idea.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19914" LastActivityDate="2020-12-06T05:13:37.313" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14949" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-12-06T05:18:44.027" Score="0" ViewCount="29" Body="&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Creality CR-6 SE 1.0.2&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Creality Slicer 4.2.1&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;stock PLA roll&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Slicer settings: Default (generic PLA) 0.2&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having intermittent issues where prints (usually edge) would &amp;quot;lift&amp;quot;.&#xA;I replaced the bed, and the filament, and I don't see this issue anymore, but..&#xA;I'm a new student of 3D printing, I want to understand why issues happen, and not just how to patch/workaround them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/flANF.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/flANF.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Lifting&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25591" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-12-06T11:03:37.553" LastActivityDate="2020-12-06T11:03:37.553" Title="Intermittent lifting (Creality CR-6SE + glass bed + stock PLA) issues" Tags="|pla|creality-ender-6|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2020-12-10T12:48:15.833" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14950" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13776" CreationDate="2020-12-06T05:47:04.013" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;looks like you have done a lot of work to try to get it working.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;considering you are having issues on one side of the build plate my thought is that it is a levelling issue or an issue with the plate itself. Try levelling it using the video &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K4G6ExEtk70&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&amp;quot;Getting Started: Leveling the Build Plate&amp;quot;&lt;/a&gt; it's for a different printer but pay attention to the part where he goes over making sure the left and right sides are level and how to check that. I had a problem like yours, and the issue was that as I tightened the screw to keep the build plate in the levelled position I ended up causing it to move. I made the same mistake a few times before realizing that I was messing it up the same way every time because I'm right-handed. after realizing that it was easier to fix.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the issue is the build plate it's self it may be a matter of it not being flat (unlikely), Or not providing a good bonding surface. if the latter I suggest you do some research and decide for yourself as there are a lot of dividing views on how to fix that issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It also looks like you are having issues with the print after the bottom layers. It could be caused but the separation issue but it could be that you just need to increase your exposure time for your non-bottom layers&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19914" LastActivityDate="2020-12-06T05:47:04.013" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14951" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-12-06T06:07:55.320" Score="0" ViewCount="28" Body="&lt;p&gt;Printing with &amp;quot;Amolen bronze PLA&amp;quot;, success with smaller prints.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Decided to print the &amp;quot;Fillenium M&amp;quot;, but it crashed at 50 % during the print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I assume the print fell down (due to raft failure).&#xA;Or, it might be some other issues (no idea?).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Temperatures are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Extruder 190 °C&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bed 50 °C&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In your experience, what would be most likely culprit?&#xA;Picture attached below (see the notch where the nozzle crashed into print)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Amolen Bronze PLA&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Creality CR-6 SE 1.0.2&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Creality Slicer 4.2.1&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IESSX.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IESSX.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25591" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-12-06T11:16:57.687" LastActivityDate="2020-12-06T11:16:57.687" Title="Crashed while printing (adhesion issue? Level issue?)" Tags="|pla|creality-ender-6|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14952" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14954" CreationDate="2020-12-06T13:32:58.037" Score="0" ViewCount="479" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am making a bed for my 3D printer. I have bought a silicon heater (31x31 cm) and I want to glue it to my custom aluminum bed. The tape that it had from factory was bad, so I removed it. I want to glue it to the aluminum and I don't know what type of adhesive to use, I was thinking gasket glue with silicon, but I think that it will have bad thermal conductivity. I found &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.annapol.eu/product_info.php?products_id=137997&amp;amp;language=en&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this product, a silicon based,  heat transferring paste&lt;/a&gt;, but I think that it will not stick good. What is a good adhesive for this purpose?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25597" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-12-07T07:01:02.260" LastActivityDate="2020-12-09T14:54:35.457" Title="Gluing silicon heater to aluminium" Tags="|diy-3d-printer|heated-bed|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14953" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-12-06T15:44:03.093" Score="2" ViewCount="1361" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought a modern machine, and it comes with PTFE tubes.  I need to relocate the spool, so I bought some longer PTFE tubes.  I bent the tub by hand, and my first test run actually had too much friction, so the extruder was unable to pull the filament through the tube.  I cut it a few inches and it seems to be fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are the rules of thumb that one should use when redesigning a filament path though a PTFE tube?  For example, these are some things I can think of based on how I would teach someone about running wires in a high- or low- voltage commercial application (with or without conduit):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bend radius.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Number of bends.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Length of tube.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Diameter of tube relevant to diameter of filament (&lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/5203/5576&quot;&gt;link&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Expected friction coefficient (teflon appears to be slick, but will still have some friction)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How to secure the slippery tube (clips, zip ties, glue, etc.).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How much compression is too much for the tube (ie zip ties)?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5576" LastActivityDate="2020-12-08T21:43:43.447" Title="How should you run PTFE (Teflon) Tubes?" Tags="|desktop-printer|ptfe-tube|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14954" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14952" CreationDate="2020-12-06T16:30:16.780" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Heat Transfer PAste will not work as a gluing agent. What you need is a high-temperature glue that bonds Aluminium and a silicone rubber. The benchmark temperature that the glue needs to withstand is about 100 °C or approximately 200 °F.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.mcmaster.com/glue/for-use-on%7Ealuminum/for-joining%7Erubber/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;McMaster-Carr&lt;/a&gt; allowed me to search for glue-properties and suggests among others contact adhesives, which are cans or tubes with a very viscous glue. You let that pre-cure on the items and then push the two together, resulting in very strong bonds. One of the items they suggest is &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/company-us/all-3m-products/%7E/3M-Plastic-Adhesive-2262/?N=5002385%203293193728&amp;amp;rt=rud&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;3M 2262&lt;/a&gt; for which McMaster-Carr lists 230 °F as the max temperature, so just in the &lt;em&gt;safe&lt;/em&gt; range. However, a 32 oz. can for almost 100 $ is surely overkill, the &lt;a href=&quot;https://multimedia.3m.com/mws/media/1015904O/3m-industrial-adhesives-and-tapes.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;3M manufacturer catalog&lt;/a&gt; lists only 1 qt and 5 gal as the available packaging sizes, so, unless you build printers for a living or know someone who uses this industrially, this is not an option.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The same catalog also lists the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/company-us/all-3m-products/%7E/3M-Double-Coated-Tape-9496LE/?N=5002385%203293242019&amp;amp;rt=rud&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&amp;quot;3M™ 200MP&amp;amp; 300LSE&amp;quot;&lt;/a&gt; series with temperatures of 148 °C (300 °F) to 204 °C (400 °F). That is enough to print anything on. And it's the same glue that' used on my Build-Tak replacement surfaces to stick them to the Aluminium bed, so it could be suitable for gluing the heater to the bed on the other side too. However, I wish you good luck to find a reseller that sells you a fitting amount. Industrial packaging is available, but you'll need to find a reseller that offers a somewhat fitting size for you - I have seen Amazon listings for both types in sizes that have only small waste for most common heaters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/t3S0H.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/t3S0H.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am not affiliated with 3M or McMaster-Carr, but I have very good experience with 300LSE.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastActivityDate="2020-12-06T16:30:16.780" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14955" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-12-06T18:07:16.243" Score="0" ViewCount="70" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am using a rectangle to select an area of the model I want to have 100 % infill. You can see my setting below. After several prints, I noticed the little arm was still breaking when under pressure... and sure enough my infill setting had not worked. In looking at the preview in Cura, you can clearly see it is not applying the 100 % infill as you can see set to the left... what am I missing? I have tried several infill types,(lines, hexagon...) to no avail.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AlTql.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AlTql.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25601" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-12-07T07:18:57.677" LastActivityDate="2020-12-07T15:17:56.950" Title="Cura 4.8.0 Custom Infill using Shape Overlap Modifier not working" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|slicing|infill|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2020-12-09T10:56:31.610" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14957" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14952" CreationDate="2020-12-06T22:29:01.197" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I suggest not gluing it. Starting from the top, make a sandwich this way:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Aluminium with holes for bolts - Silicone heater - Thin cork (the one from IKEA, 2 mm thick for office desks is fine) - Thin plywood with holes for bolts (or other stiff material holding at least 60°C)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This way you use the aluminium and the plywood to keep the silicone heater well in contact with the aluminium, and the cork insulates so that less heat is lost on the bottom side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, cork is fire-retardant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the heater fails replacing it is simple.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, you can and should cut away from the cork some space for a thermal non resettable fuse at 180°C to cut power if the heater overheats.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my case I should have used one more bolt, as you can see in the photo.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0nwJN.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0nwJN.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2338" LastEditorUserId="2338" LastEditDate="2020-12-09T14:54:35.457" LastActivityDate="2020-12-09T14:54:35.457" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14958" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-12-06T22:33:00.670" Score="1" ViewCount="454" Body="&lt;p&gt;Normally, I'm all fine with my printer and filament. But today I changed the filament for another brand and no matter what, it sticks to the nozzle so nothing comes to the bed and soon my nozzle is full of PLA... I use a sheet of paper for printer to level the bed at 0.1 mm. While leveling, I get the nozzle close enough to feel a bit of resistance from the paper while moving that sheet. Please help me...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18678" LastEditorUserId="854" LastEditDate="2020-12-06T22:55:50.113" LastActivityDate="2021-01-06T20:10:14.820" Title="Filament sticks to nozzle" Tags="|filament|heated-bed|bed-leveling|adhesion|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14959" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14958" CreationDate="2020-12-06T22:59:25.687" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I believe the problem is not so much that the filament is sticking to the nozzle; it's that the filament is not sticking to the bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You've confirmed that you have correct clearance for the nozzle to bed distance. The next considerations are bed temperature and nozzle temperature. New brands often require new parameters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Consider to raise the bed temperature 5 °C. If you're not using any adhesive medium, perhaps a bit of glue stick will help to have the filament stick better/properly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's unlikely that the nozzle temperature is incorrect, as too low would result in a nozzle clog, while too high would &amp;quot;drizzle out&amp;quot; and be everywhere, but don't reject too-high entirely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can get the bed adhesion correct, your nozzle should remain clear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastActivityDate="2020-12-06T22:59:25.687" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14963" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14972" CreationDate="2020-12-07T13:02:45.613" Score="1" ViewCount="5711" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is this possible? I know that the controller board of the printer is normally controlled (when using USB) by an active computer sending data, but I was wondering if it could be reversed so that the board retrieves files from a USB flash drive? My SD card keeps failing and is overall frustrating to work with, so USB would be a nice option.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25608" LastActivityDate="2020-12-07T22:06:04.323" Title="Printing files over USB drive (Ender 3 Pro)" Tags="|creality-ender-3|usb|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14964" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14898" CreationDate="2020-12-07T13:18:27.907" Score="3" Body="&lt;h1&gt;Conclusion&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I found my mistake: It was the E-Steps I did wrong it over extruded. The best E-Steps per mm are 92 for me. The mistake took place because I took my E-step number from a Video Tutorial about my dual extruder. I found the optimal number by testing out; the formula I got for the E-Steps was in the Video and I think I  used it wrong, I'll watch the Video again and look at what I did wrong and I'll write a comment about it. I will test more today to get it perfect but &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/14915/8884&quot;&gt;@Trish&lt;/a&gt; was right.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you to everybody for their Time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/S5nh7.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/S5nh7.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;How the problem was diagnosed:&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Did I have a bad Temperature?&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, I tested all temperatures in the range of 190 to 210 °C, and the best looking is 200-205 °C. After that, I tried a different height for my print head which just resulted in the model not sticking to the bed. So I could rule out bad layer height.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This was made at 200 °C, The problematic areas are at the corners and on Flat Surfaces parallel to the heat bed:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YFf5a.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;This was made with 200 °C, The problematic areas are at the corners and on Flat Surfaces parallel to the Heat bed.&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YFf5a.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;This was made with 200 °C, The problematic areas are at the corners and on Flat Surfaces parallel to the Heat bed.&quot; title=&quot;This was made with 200 °C, The problematic areas are at the corners and on Flat Surfaces parallel to the Heat bed.&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Is the Cura profile the culprit?&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I made a new printer Profile to find out if I broke it in the settings. I got the same results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I tried every Setting in Cura that could have something to do with that, the only thing that helped a little was using 50% Top Surface Flow:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MMcm0.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MMcm0.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ynXsO.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;this Picture is with 50 % Top Surface Flow&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ynXsO.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;this Picture is with 50 % Top Surface Flow&quot; title=&quot;this Picture is with 50 % Top Surface Flow&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While testing, I saw that the corners are really bad. I think it's because of the print head acceleration. So, I went back and tuned more...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;E-Step Configuration Issue Identified:&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, I revisited the video I saw originally and figured out, it might be the E-steps per mm. I went through trial and error to come to 92 and realized, I had mistakenly inserted a number for a different extruder setup.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25491" LastEditorUserId="14562" LastEditDate="2020-12-10T22:13:43.887" LastActivityDate="2020-12-10T22:13:43.887" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14965" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-12-07T14:44:50.993" Score="1" ViewCount="546" Body="&lt;p&gt;Draft shields helped me a lot to get some usable prints out of ABS on a non-enclosed printer with a small printing bed, but I noticed that the shield cracks (it is affected by the issue that would otherwise affect the print itself), resulting in cold air leaking in and ruining the print to some degree.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See image for an example of a ruined shield which results in a chimney effect and cold air getting near the print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hHF8J.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hHF8J.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I set multiple shields to enhance the protection? just a second one would be enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the print is rectangular it's easy, I just need to add an empty box around my print, but when the models are more complex I would like to have shields which follow the shape more closely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm using Prusaslicer but a preprocess step in other free software would be acceptable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2338" LastActivityDate="2020-12-08T20:49:30.450" Title="How to set multiple draft shields in Prusaslicer?" Tags="|abs|heat-management|warping|nylon|delamination|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14966" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14849" CreationDate="2020-12-07T15:37:16.553" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/14947/8884&quot;&gt;Besides the options of underexposure or bad FEP film&lt;/a&gt;, there's also the option of the print being in a bad orientation for printing. Often, the quality gets better if you tilt the model some degrees. You do have to clean up some places, but the stresses from pulling free of the FEP get distributed more evenly and are lower, resulting in generally better prints.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other factors that can impact the print quality is the resin's viscosity: the more viscous, the more likely resin can't flow in enough. Resin's viscosity is antiproportional to the room temperature - the hotter the room, the less viscous the resin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastActivityDate="2020-12-07T15:37:16.553" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14967" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14928" CreationDate="2020-12-07T15:55:53.920" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd go for the easy option of using a composite setup: Acrylic lacquers themselves are very low reactive and can serve as a foundation before the UV clear coating is applied. The &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.woodweb.com/knowledge_base/UVresistant_nonyellowing_finish.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;acrylic lacquer itself doesn't change coloration if exposed to sunlight&lt;/a&gt;, but the light can still pass and discolor the lithophane.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your Krylon clearcoat technically &lt;em&gt;is&lt;/em&gt; an acrylic paint, but to be used from a rattlecan, other chemicals are added - a whole lot as the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.krylon.com/document/SDS/en/US/724504013051&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;MSDS&lt;/a&gt; tells us. The list of chemicals &lt;em&gt;besides&lt;/em&gt; the paint in that can are &lt;em&gt;Acetone,&lt;/em&gt; n-Butyl Acetate, Propane, Butane, Xylene, Ethyl 3-Ethoxypropionate, &lt;em&gt;Cyclohexane, Ethylbenzene&lt;/em&gt;,&#xA;Bis(pentamethyl-4-piperidyl)sebacate. Three simple chemicals I put in italics - they are very good solvents that easily react with the resin print. Propane and Butane create the pressure in the rattle can, the other four chemicals make up the actual lacquer. I have observed the mix of Acetone, Cyclohexane, and Ethylbentene (with possibly others) softening PLA, so it is totally possible that they react unfavorably with your resin print. As a result, I suggest using a brush or roller to apply acrylic paint from a can (not spraycan!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastActivityDate="2020-12-07T15:55:53.920" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14968" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14953" CreationDate="2020-12-07T16:21:43.407" Score="2" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Constriction&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PTFE-Tubes usually have enough stiffness to not require additional support and constriction from anything but the two end fittings and the stiffness the filament in them provides. In fact, they make great guides for cable management to the heater block! You might want to add some constricting clamps on very long tubes. To do so, zip ties and cable guide clamps are common. Don't make them too tight as they shall not cut into the tube!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You also shouldn't constrict them too tight: A bend diameter of about 12 cm is where I would pull the line for 1.75 mm PLA: anything lower and you might get problems. For 2.85 or 3 mm filament, you should use a somewhat larger diameter - I have seen good flow with about 20 cm bends. A very simple test can be done: Fix one end, load filament, pull at the other end while holding the second fixture close to the planned position. If you have an easy way, you're good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Length&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Length is tricky: you should not be too long, as that could add too much friction, but on a direct drive or when you pull filament from a dry box, there's little to no length limit on the tube through which you pull, there's only a maximum length you can push through effectively.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Diameter&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The diameter of a tube on the &lt;strong&gt;pushing&lt;/strong&gt; end of the extruder motor should be somewhat snug: 1.9 and 2 mm inner diameter are common for 1.75 mm filament, and 2.85 mm does work well in a 3 mm tube. 3 mm filament needs about 3.25 mm inner diameter. As a rule of thumb: add 0.15 to 0.25 mm to the diameter of the filament and get the closest available diameter to that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the &lt;strong&gt;pulling&lt;/strong&gt; end of the extruder, a larger size can be used. Though don't go too large, like 10 mm ID, as at some point, as you might experience backlash and rattling in the tube, resulting in noise, and for very hygroscopic filaments (PVA or Nylon), the extra air in such a large tube could reduce the effect of printing from a dry box:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;3.25 mm works well for both 2.85 and 3 mm and might still work for 1.75 mm filament on the intake side (Thank you for the insight FarO!)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a 4 mm ID on the intake-side can still work for 1.75 mm and mitigate extrusion problems on a Bowden-extruder (thanks @0scar)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In either case, you have to keep in mind the bending radii - don't overconstrain! Also, remember that you need to have a fitting coupling on the delivering and the receiving end.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2020-12-08T21:43:43.447" LastActivityDate="2020-12-08T21:43:43.447" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14969" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-12-07T16:30:29.070" Score="3" ViewCount="797" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was looking at purchasing the Creality CR-X or another similar dual extruder (note, NOT dual nozzle) printer. I know it was designed to print two colors of the same filament, but is it able to print two different filaments?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would be printing HIPS with ABS or PVA with PLA, so the two filaments would have very similar characteristics. It's ok if the printer doesn't know there's two different filaments, I can make it work by playing with the slicing settings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25105" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2020-12-07T18:37:48.787" LastActivityDate="2022-01-03T13:07:05.500" Title="Can a dual extruder printer print with multiple filament types?" Tags="|dual-nozzle|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14970" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14969" CreationDate="2020-12-07T18:37:31.233" Score="2" Body="&lt;h1&gt;Yes and No&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Yes, if you have two full hotends,&lt;/strong&gt; you can easily print with two filament types.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Yes, if you have one hotend and both filaments melt at a very similar temperature or are the same polymer,&lt;/strong&gt; then you can use a Prusa MMU style or splicing machine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;No, if you have only one hotend and the two materials are very dissimilar in their print temperatures&lt;/strong&gt; (PLA with 200 °C and ABS with 235 °C), then you can't use a MMU/splicing style printing. This does preclude PLA and PVA from the same nozzle: PVA needs about 230 °C according to my data.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2020-12-09T10:55:20.317" LastActivityDate="2020-12-09T10:55:20.317" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14971" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14596" CreationDate="2020-12-07T21:03:37.867" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the end it turned to be that the RAMPS board was ruined.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I bought a new RAMPS board and it worked immediately.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user23804" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-12-08T06:31:47.570" LastActivityDate="2020-12-08T06:31:47.570" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14972" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14963" CreationDate="2020-12-07T22:06:04.323" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately, no.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are two types of USB devices: host, such as a PC, and device, such as a thumb drive. (Actually, there is a third type, on-the-go, which can act as either.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Ender 3 mainboard is a USB device which means that it can only connect to a USB host. You cannot directly connect two USB devices, such as the Ender 3 and a thumb drive) and have them work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One option would be to set up &lt;a href=&quot;https://octoprint.org/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;OctoPrint software&lt;/a&gt; on a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.raspberrypi.org/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Raspberry PI&lt;/a&gt; single-board computer and connect that by USB to the printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20164" LastActivityDate="2020-12-07T22:06:04.323" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14973" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6608" CreationDate="2020-12-08T00:04:20.347" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;A reliable and repeatable test can be performed by printing cylinders, tapping them to M4 thread and then testing the resulting bolts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My Tech Fun &lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/ZiQek0wei1g?start=0&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt; does something like that, but he prints the thread directly, which may be less repeatable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then you can perform pull and bend tests on the samples using simple attachments available at the hardware store.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2338" LastActivityDate="2020-12-08T00:04:20.347" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14976" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-12-08T08:12:08.440" Score="2" ViewCount="162" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I've designed a few components in Fusion 360, but I'm kinda new to CAD.  I did the tutorials AutoDesk have on YouTube, modelled an Arduino enclosure, a shampoo bottle, a lamp shade, etc. but what I'm doing now isn't as straightforward...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Before I used to create solids, but what I'm doing right now is essentially a flimsy plastic part, just a sheet of plastic with a rim, and some other &amp;quot;rib&amp;quot; features, and doing solids you have to make a sketch, and every line has to be doubled because of the thickness of the material.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Today I'm trying surfaces after being clued by the &amp;quot;Thicken&amp;quot; command, I figured maybe that was more efficient, but I'm not sure if I'm on the right track.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I work with solids, I end-up with the option to &lt;em&gt;join&lt;/em&gt; whatever new feature to the main body, but with surfaces I end-up with a bunch of bodies that are essentially supposed to be one, and I don't know how to join them together after.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I guess they could be put together in a &amp;quot;component&amp;quot;, but I think components are more like a nut is a solid, a bolt is a solid, and a component is a nut and a bolt, not a bolt head, and a threaded cylinder...  So the way the software is made right now at this point, while it clued me to use surfaces, now it's cluing me that there's something I'm missing, or nor doing right...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's no CAD Stack Exchange site, and I realize this might be a bit specific, but the part is to be 3D printed, I bought a new 3D printer not long ago for a project, but I need to get better at CAD before I can make it...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Attached is a screenshot of what I worked on, it's paths that I've extruded to create surfaces (tall edges), thickened those surfaces to create bodies, patched some surfaces to fill areas, thickened those as well (ended-up with stair-shaped corners that I fixed somehow), then I cut some bodies from the bodies below to end-up with that you see now...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think I'm on the right path with surfaces, but I don't think my workflow is right, and I was wondering if anyone could help me...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Right now, there's supposed to be two screw wells in two corners of the circle, essentially wells with a hole in the bottom for a thumbtack to go through, and there's going to be a cap to cap it off, it's kind of the same process as what I've done so far, but like I said, I don't think I'm doing it right...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BD7K6.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BD7K6.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;What I've got so far...&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;sub&gt;(source: &lt;a href=&quot;https://forum-images-and-sharing.000webhostapp.com/img/2020-12-08.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;000webhostapp.com&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23490" LastEditorUserId="4808" LastEditDate="2022-12-21T03:00:27.347" LastActivityDate="2022-12-21T03:00:27.347" Title="Fusion 360 Design Best Practices Question (Am I on the right track?)" Tags="|cad|fusion360|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14977" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-12-08T08:44:34.947" Score="1" ViewCount="169" Body="&lt;p&gt;The art in question is &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.instagram.com/p/CIfsO2ZD7Rj/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.instagram.com/p/CIfsO2ZD7Rj/&lt;/a&gt; . I Think the concept artist, Jean Giraud, is dead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25621" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-12-08T09:30:47.160" LastActivityDate="2020-12-09T03:36:14.257" Title="Can I sell a handpainted large scale 3D model of a copyrighted 2D concept art?" Tags="|3d-models|legal|2d|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14978" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14977" CreationDate="2020-12-08T09:54:42.587" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;While better fitted to our friends at &lt;a href=&quot;https://law.stackexchange.com/questions/tagged/copyright&quot;&gt;law.SE&lt;/a&gt;, the general gist is: &lt;strong&gt;No.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Art is protected by copyright, and any adaption (&lt;em&gt;derivative work&lt;/em&gt;) requires the OK from the right holders &lt;em&gt;per se&lt;/em&gt;. Only 70-75 years after the death of the author (or publication for company works), a work enters the &lt;em&gt;public domain&lt;/em&gt; and the copyright expires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are some exceptions (&lt;em&gt;fair use/fair dealing/&lt;/em&gt;...), but &lt;em&gt;media transformation&lt;/em&gt; is not one of them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Giraud died in 2012, his estate or heirs - or whoever he/they sold the commercial rights to - own the right to ok derivative Works till around 2087.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2020-12-08T17:50:17.077" LastActivityDate="2020-12-08T17:50:17.077" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14979" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-12-08T10:07:44.787" Score="1" ViewCount="857" Body="&lt;p&gt;The printer I am using is an Artillery Sidewinder X1. In the photos attached you can see that I am having a lot of inconsistency between layers.&#xA;The problem has never gone away and I always thought it was Z wobble but now I'm not so sure it is because we have tightened everything up, making sure everything is stable and tight.&#xA;Is this Z wobble or is it something else. Could it be the filament? Does it have anything to do with the slicer settings?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8dxR6.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8dxR6.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;3Dbenchy&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KOFlE.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KOFlE.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23583" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-01-07T15:11:36.610" LastActivityDate="2021-02-06T16:00:20.030" Title="Print quality: possible Z wobble" Tags="|print-quality|troubleshooting|z-axis|artillery-sidewinder-x1|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14980" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14979" CreationDate="2020-12-08T11:24:56.590" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, this is not Z-wobble, Z-wobble is usually characterized by a repetitive distortion, from the supplied images this repetitive pattern is not observed. A Z-wobble pattern is typically caused by the lead screws, or the Z drive where carriage follows the X/Y motion of the lead screw nut.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A typical image of Z-wobble on a Benchy would look like:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/94dXC.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/94dXC.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your print doesn't look that bad for a low-end 3D printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2020-12-08T11:24:56.590" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14981" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14976" CreationDate="2020-12-08T13:21:55.017" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ok, let's go down the main two ways to a part, and in practice you usually use both to design for 3D printing. Only for machining, you try to keep to the cutting method only.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cutting Method&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Building Method&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Cutting Method&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You start with a piece of &amp;quot;stock&amp;quot;. A cube or cylinder created by extruding the simple shape. Now you go and create profiles that you either extrude into the part or rotate around the axis - your profile &amp;quot;cuts&amp;quot; the &amp;quot;stock&amp;quot;. When doing this, you think of parts like a machinist: you remove the material as a mill or lathe would.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Nwo3F.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Nwo3F.png&quot; alt=&quot;a cut in progress&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Buildup Method&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You start with the profile of the piece, then extrude it, then add the next detail and so on. I work a lot with that, and you can have a lot of sketches in the end:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lkTrb.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lkTrb.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastActivityDate="2020-12-08T13:21:55.017" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14984" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14965" CreationDate="2020-12-08T20:49:30.450" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could CAD a 1 layer thick cylinder, and add it to your print and place it around your object. You can create any number of cylindrical shells that way...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25630" LastActivityDate="2020-12-08T20:49:30.450" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14985" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-12-08T21:13:31.080" Score="2" ViewCount="911" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Background&lt;/strong&gt;: Basic shapes in Tinkercad have parameters like Sides, Segments, ... (see screenshot below).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using codeblocks one can create custom shape. Within the code it is possible to define variables which can be used as a parameters based on which shape is created. This is not flexible solution because if I want to modify some variable I need to enter codeblock, change the value, export to Tinkercad and then I can use it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Question&lt;/strong&gt;: Is there a way to create custom object with parameters controlled from Tinkercad like in case of basic shapes?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/75A4f.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/75A4f.png&quot; alt=&quot;Parameters&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25631" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-01-05T09:26:31.837" LastActivityDate="2023-09-23T02:09:16.117" Title="Parameterizable customer object in Tinkercad" Tags="|tinkercad|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14986" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14987" CreationDate="2020-12-08T22:41:48.920" Score="2" ViewCount="551" Body="&lt;p&gt;Why does the Ender 3 only have 3 limit switches instead of 6?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How does it handle crashes on other sides?&#xA;Is it worth adding them with a new mainboard?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25634" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-12-08T22:46:48.900" LastActivityDate="2020-12-09T07:48:44.620" Title="Ender 3, why only 3 limit switches?" Tags="|creality-ender-3|endstop|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14987" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14986" CreationDate="2020-12-08T22:57:02.260" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You only need 3 switches to determine/fix the position of the carriage (carrying the hotend) with respect to the printer frame (for X, Y and Z i.e. 3 dimensions). Firmware setup, by defining the offset and the traveling distance on each axis, determines the minimum and maximum displacement. By default the printer carriage will not go outside the boundaries and will not damage anything. That is sufficient for most printers, but, for those printers that have weak steppers and printers that produce prints that suffer from layer shifting, the coordinate system might be messed up, and the carriage may travel outside the initial boundaries, this can damage your printer, using maximum endstops will prevent the printer from destroying itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why use only 3 switches? The reason for this could also be related to costs, you need half the amount of switches, cables and a less extended printer controller board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;I've had one printer setup with max limit switches, but they never got triggered (unless self triggered for testing), never had a layer shifting either.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-12-09T07:48:44.620" LastActivityDate="2020-12-09T07:48:44.620" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14988" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14986" CreationDate="2020-12-09T03:28:59.957" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Because it knows the side of the build volume, all it needs to know is one physical location to home from.  So knowing  {x,y,z} (0,0,0), and knowing x(max) = 230, y(max) = 230, z(max) = 250, and knowing 1 step (x) = 0.001 mm, it can know when to stop before hitting the other side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because it knows where 0 is, and because it knows the maximum value, it knows where the other limit is through math.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2-sided limit switches are used on industrial equipment that have open-loop control mechanisms, like a lathe with a DRO, the DRO won't stop the lathe, so you need to hook up a limit switch on the other side to stop the lead screw...  You could also have a maximum travel limit switch on a CNC router where if you send the spindle too far, you might break the equipment, or cause injury.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope this answered your question, and was also informative on how limit switches are used elsewhere...  It's not perfect or exact, but I think it should give you a broad idea...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23490" LastActivityDate="2020-12-09T03:28:59.957" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14989" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14977" CreationDate="2020-12-09T03:36:14.257" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is something that might have a precedent, where the line is blurry, someone might have already tried, and in that case the judge's decision in that court case is the official interpretation of the law towards that specific scenario.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There might also be definitive laws regarding &amp;quot;derived works&amp;quot;...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Like the others, I would ask the Law SE for help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23490" LastActivityDate="2020-12-09T03:36:14.257" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14990" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14969" CreationDate="2020-12-09T03:41:47.097" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;What you want is a dual extruder, dual nozzle, dual hot-end printer, a printer with two entire print heads.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That model is mostly for color, like a black and white panda, or a green and rainbow lizzard, of the same material.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your problem is going to be the mixing of both materials in the hot end.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I were you, I would invest the extra cash into a dual print head printer, so you can print with water-soluble support material, and that soft of stuff, plus if you print black and white pandas, you're going to have pure black, and pure white, with no grey, marbled parts where the two filaments were mixing in the hot end.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23490" LastActivityDate="2020-12-09T03:41:47.097" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14991" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-12-09T03:47:57.777" Score="-1" ViewCount="7082" Body="&lt;p&gt;I searched online, and found two YouTubers who shared their Ender 3 v2 printer profiles, and I've been having more or less better success with theirs than mine, possibly because I was basing mine off the Ender 3, and they were basing theirs off the Ender 3 Pro...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would anyone here have the settings for the Ender 3 v2 for Cura, that's the printer definition, with the measurements, offsets, etc. and also maybe a few print profiles, one of my biggest problems is stringing, lots of my prints have stringing, and the new profiles helped with that, but I'd like to have some more, and also a solid baseline from which to build, and learn, and try to figure out what I'm doing wrong...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23490" LastActivityDate="2020-12-11T19:21:06.873" Title="Ender 3 v2 Cura Profiles - Anyone willing to help/share?" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|creality-ender-3|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14992" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-12-09T05:08:34.673" Score="1" ViewCount="690" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Creality CR-10 S5 which is using Marlin firmware 1.1.6.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I recently got a level to level my printing bed, good high precision one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Afterwards it was printing as if my bed was not level.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I assume that the 3D printer has old bed leveling data stored from its previous calibration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How do I clear this old data?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Can I enter new data manually?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The printer doesn't have auto leveling with the current firmware.&#xA;I tried the old firmware, and the auto-leveling system didn't level the print bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have no bed leveling sensors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16395" LastEditorUserId="16395" LastEditDate="2020-12-09T13:25:55.047" LastActivityDate="2020-12-09T13:25:55.047" Title="How do I reset the bed leveling data?" Tags="|bed-leveling|creality-cr-10|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14993" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-12-09T05:44:39.543" Score="2" ViewCount="53" Body="&lt;p&gt;Our company want to implement selective laser melting(metallic powders). But our building close to the road plus we have industrial machines near us, what vibration levels are dangerous in SLM printing? What numbers is admissible? Vibration are dangerous because of lasers? Or because layer of powder can be distracted during the build?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25623" LastActivityDate="2020-12-09T16:03:36.100" Title="Selective laser melting and building near the road (vibrations)" Tags="|print-quality|slm|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14994" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14976" CreationDate="2020-12-09T08:06:34.040" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;After @Trish posted their answer, I went back to my design, and used substractive design, because I watch a lot of machining videos, and instead of the &amp;quot;thicken&amp;quot; feature that kinda did what I wanted, I used the &amp;quot;shell&amp;quot; command that did exactly what I wanted, see below.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vxzP0.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vxzP0.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Shell solids instead of thicken faces&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23490" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2020-12-09T11:15:38.903" LastActivityDate="2020-12-09T11:15:38.903" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14995" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14993" CreationDate="2020-12-09T08:50:36.430" Score="3" Body="&lt;h1&gt;That depends...&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Among the fact that can influence if vibrations could be the problem in this case, I see the following s is the most prominent:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Powder grain diameter&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Powder composition&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Powder shape&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Aimed for resolution&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The grain diameter and composition are the more influencing factors: fine powders of low-density metals will be much more affected by vibrations and almost behave like dust or fluid under resonating vibrations. On the other hand varicose powders of high-density metals will more easily settle down and have much higher thresholds for how much vibration affects them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The shape mainly influences how particles coagulate: very coarse particles, think snowflakes, will interlock and bond to one another creating flakes of several powder particles. Vibration can influence the formation and compactness of such flakes and such influence the resolution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to print very coarse with rough, large powders, vibrational mitigation might be not needed. But should you want to print pretty much in aluminium dust... you need to take it into account.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Vibration mitigation&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the Vibrations influence your prospect machine placement, you'll have to inquire about at your machine manufacturer, best with a seismometer measurement of the places where you want to build. By placing special fasteners and vibration dampeners (springs or rubber feet) in between the machine and the floor, anchoring it to a separate foundation that is not connected to the surrounding building, or even by having the machine &lt;em&gt;float&lt;/em&gt;, vibrations can be mitigated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's often much easier to install larger vibration mitigation equipment on lower floors and mounting it directly to the foundation of a building (ground floor and basement) is often preferred.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In case of special projects, the local municipality might allow banning (heavy) road traffic or even pedestrians from areas that affect the manufacturing in such a way - the Cologne Opera is partially under a public space right next to the cathedral, and during events, pedestrians may not use a chunk of it. In my city, the use of one road with trucks is banned due to vibrations they can cause in a nearby old building.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2020-12-09T16:03:36.100" LastActivityDate="2020-12-09T16:03:36.100" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14996" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14997" CreationDate="2020-12-09T09:52:29.507" Score="7" ViewCount="1538" Body="&lt;p&gt;Recently I started looking at pressure advance and how it works and I'm a bit confused about where it is usually implemented.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My idea of 3D printer was that its firmware is fairly dumb and only replays G-code, not knowing anything about the object being printed, material used, or even the printer itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But with pressure advance this whole thing changes and now the firmware needs to know the linear advance factor which combines information about the filament and filament path used. In addition, the E axis is no longer controlled directly by the G-code, but its motion is almost independently determined by the firmware.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why is this? Is there a reason that slicer (or a post-processor) can't compute all this and directly store the needed extruder axis  movements in the G-code?&#xA;Does the printer have some additional information that the slicer is missing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1286" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2023-11-24T15:29:50.677" LastActivityDate="2023-11-24T15:29:50.677" Title="Why is pressure advance usually implemented in firmware rather than in the slicer?" Tags="|firmware|fdm|pressure-advance|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14997" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14996" CreationDate="2020-12-09T17:15:00.450" Score="8" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition the E axis is no longer controlled directly by the GCode, but it's motion is almost independently determined by the firmware.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the case even without linear advance. G-code does not directly control the movement of any of the axes. G-code only specifies the path the axes should travel, but not the acceleration and deceleration associated with following that path. If you are printing a cube, then the G-code might specify that the extruder has to extrude a square. It will specify that the 4 sides of the square should be printed, but it does not specify how the transition from one side to the next should be handled.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The printer cannot instantly transition from extruding one side of the square to extruding the next side, because the direction of the extruder cannot change instantaneously. It needs to smoothly decelerate and accelerate. This is handled by the firmware, which translates the straight line commands from G-code to smooth acceleration and deceleration of the extruder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is exactly where linear advance comes in. It is coupled to the acceleration and deceleration. There is no way to &amp;quot;implement&amp;quot; linear advance in G-code, because G-code does not even have any notion of acceleration and deceleration. The G-code (and slicer) has no idea how the firmware is handling the acceleration and deceleration, so therefore it is impossible for the slicer to know what linear advance is required to match.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then you might ask: &amp;quot;why is acceleration and deceleration not implemented in G-code (rather than in firmware)?&amp;quot; This is simply a design choice. G-code is meant to be a very simple file format, and it simply allows you to specify straight line move commands. Representing smooth acceleration curves would either require breaking them down into many discrete, small steps, but this would greatly increase the file size. You could suggest a more complex G-code specification that would allow a more &amp;quot;compact&amp;quot; representation of acceleration and deceleration curves but then you're just shifting the computation back to the firmware (albeit with a more explicit specification in the G-code).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastActivityDate="2020-12-09T17:15:00.450" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14998" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14996" CreationDate="2020-12-09T17:32:25.400" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a really good question that sheds a lot of light on 3D printer software/firmware architecture, and Tom already said a lot of the things I wanted to say before getting a chance to write an answer. The basic problem is that, to do pressure advance accurately (and in a way that doesn't get it horribly wrong when inaccurate), you need to know the actual feedrate of the extruder at all times, and that's not available until applying the acceleration profile, which by convention happens in the printer firmware.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With that said, there were primitive and even somewhat advanced attempts to do pressure advance in the slicer. The first seems to have been &amp;quot;coasting&amp;quot;, which, along with extra-priming after coast, is pretty much just &amp;quot;pressure advance, assuming a constant feedrate&amp;quot;. It gets things horribly wrong if you mix different extruder feedrates (different print speeds or line widths, etc.) or if you have slow acceleration, but if your acceleration is so fast (relative to max speed) that it's approximately instantaneous, it might work okay.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Modern Cura also has Flow Rate Compensation, which is something like pressure advance. It's rate-sensitive, so in theory it can give accurate results with varying line width and print speed as long as acceleration is close enough to instantaneous. Since it appeared after Marlin added linear advance, I never bothered trying to play with it, so I can't speak to whether it actually works decently. There are still a lot of subtleties to when the advance is performed that it could get wrong, and I think you'd want to do some test cases just to read the gcode output and evaluate whether what it's doing is sufficiently close to reasonable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you wanted to do full pressure advance in the slicer, you'd need to let the slicer handle acceleration profile, breaking lines up into small segments each with nominal feedrate matching the rate they should end at, and sufficiently close to the rate they should start at, with the firmware acceleration limits set to accommodate the change. Then, knowing a very good approximation of the actual toolhead and thus extruder feedrate for each segment, you'd know the advance to apply, and could apply it as an additional subdivision at the end of the previous print move. And then in theory, it all works out. But this would make the gcode &lt;strong&gt;a lot&lt;/strong&gt; larger/bulkier, and more demanding on the serial link speed and microcontroller's ability to keep up with parsing/planning. So it's almost surely a bad idea.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Klipper firmware does this differently. It does the gcode parsing and planning (including pressure advance) in Python software (with some C for critical paths) running on a much more capable computer, and sends the precise generated stepper motor timings over the serial link to the microcontroller operating the printer hardware.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastEditorUserId="11157" LastEditDate="2020-12-10T17:05:00.707" LastActivityDate="2020-12-10T17:05:00.707" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14999" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-12-09T17:58:35.830" Score="2" ViewCount="1113" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there any research into use of thermoelectric cooler along with part cooling fan to get quicker cooling without strong air currents that apply pressure to the still-soft material? I experimented with custom fan ducts in the past trying to get better cooling and avoid warping for printing thin layers of PLA at high speeds, but found that the concentrated stream of air blowing on the part actually deformed it before it could cool. At the time I wondered if using significantly colder air, at a much lower flow, would work better. But every time I've searched for thermoelectric (peltier) coolers with 3D printing, I've found results that are about cooling motors or the heatbreak (especially inside heated enclosures), nothing about part cooling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If there is no research on this and I want to experiment myself at some point, are there constraints I should consider for how to mount it (in my case on an Ender 3, but also in general)? Perhaps on a separate intake duct before the cooling fan? Or between the cooling fan and hotend assembly to let the waste heat dump into the assembly that the hotend fan is already cooling?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2020-12-12T15:25:37.133" Title="Thermoelectric cooler for part cooling fan?" Tags="|cooling|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15000" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14898" CreationDate="2020-12-09T18:00:36.617" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I noticed that on my Ender 3, if the belts aren't tight enough, I have a similar problem, but mostly when I print anything circular.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25646" LastActivityDate="2020-12-09T18:00:36.617" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15001" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14999" CreationDate="2020-12-09T20:08:04.903" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is true that if you try to do bridges with a very hot filament the cooling air will deform or push away the hot filament if it's set at high speed, or it won't cool it enough if you run the fan slower.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I experienced it with PETG at 245 °C while performing a parametric optimisation as described in:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/4KAMFamy3zw?start=0&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Still, the TEC are inefficient and they require a bulky heatsink to cool the hot side. Not only that, you also need a heatsink with thin fins to cool the air, which cannot be too small too because the air is flowing relatively fast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Overall, it's clearly not practicable so I doubt you will find studies to confirm what is obvious.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2338" LastActivityDate="2020-12-09T20:08:04.903" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15002" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15081" CreationDate="2020-12-09T20:14:20.183" Score="2" ViewCount="330" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am using a clear resin to print parts using a Formlabs printer. At the moment, I am using the resin from Formlab which comes in a cartridge that fits in the printer. However, I would like to move to a cheaper option if available. I would like to able to refill the cartridges that I have rather than buying a new cartridge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it possible to buy some clear resin from an outer source or would that damage the printer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25029" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2020-12-10T00:33:50.550" LastActivityDate="2021-01-21T00:00:40.113" Title="Does the resin vary from a printer to another?" Tags="|resin|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15003" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14999" CreationDate="2020-12-09T20:16:28.110" Score="2" Body="&lt;h1&gt;On the printhead?&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;TECs or Peltier Elements are incredibly inefficient compared to airstream coolers. Their only benefit is perfect temperature control, from which you will have nothing because there is no firmware that cares for the temperature of cooling air or the cooling body of a Hotend. Also, a TEC creates a lot of heat on its output side - which means you heat the air just millimeters away from where you want to cool the air!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To get the heat produced by the TEC away, you either need a rather large cooling body - which is a lot of weight and space you need. As a result, you reduce the maximum print speed a lot. A water cooler isn't necessarily that much lighter, but it also gets us the trouble of having a highly conductive liquid right on the printhead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;lighter alternative: compressed air&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'd have much better efficiency by having compressed air decompress (as in: get out of a slim nozzle) slowly just a few millimeters in front of the air intake of your part cooling fan - expanding air cools down a lot, and running a compressor for a few moments takes less energy than running a Peltier element with the same temperature drop. In a pinch, a CO2 canister could provide the needed high pressure air, and a nozzle like you have it on an airbrush would work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Move it off the printhead?&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As the weight of the necessary secondary equipment is an issue, it might be better to move the Peltier element off the printhead. For example, by using a flexible hose that supplies the air to the cooling fan, and feeding that with precooled air - and now a Peltier element can shine: by having the weight be no longer a matter, we can use a rather large cooling body on the outside and cooling fins on the inside.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FPAzi.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FPAzi.png&quot; alt=&quot;Sample &amp;quot;Intake&amp;quot;&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2020-12-09T23:14:19.857" LastActivityDate="2020-12-09T23:14:19.857" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15005" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14999" CreationDate="2020-12-10T13:49:26.700" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;For cooling the printed object:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Combined with air compresser&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What seems the most practical is to use an air compressor with a tank large enough to ensure that the air in the tank has time to cool off.  This gives you the option of adding an air dryer if needed.  You could cool the compressed air just before blowing on the print though a Peltier cooler and get additional cooling as the air releases toward the print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Information link:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://labincubators.net/blogs/blog/peltier-vs-compressor-based-cooling&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://labincubators.net/blogs/blog/peltier-vs-compressor-based-cooling&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://labincubators.net/blogs/blog/peltier-vs-compressor-based-cooling&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://labincubators.net/blogs/blog/peltier-vs-compressor-based-cooling&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol start=&quot;2&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Printer Ceiling&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could put a Peltier cooler on the ceiling with a heatsink/cold-sink covering most of the inside ceiling and fans only on the external (outside the ceiling wall) heated part of the Peltier.  Convection would move the air.  Without and enclosure, positioning the Peltier to use convection would be good because the fans, especially those removing the heat would not be fighting convection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol start=&quot;3&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Printer Bed&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could use a Peltier cooler to both heat and cool the print bed.  All you need for stitching is to change the polarity of the voltage on the Peltier.  A Peltier could handle those temperatures well.  While Peltier heaters/coolers aren't energy efficient, because they can do both, they have good and quick temperature control.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you wanted to get fancy, you could have multiple Peltier devices across the bed, so that you could keep heat under the print and have all the other devices cool.  You would need to know the fastest rate you could change temperature without cracking the glass on a glass bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Cooling the heat sink on the extruder.&lt;/strong&gt; (answering a different question)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The most practical way to use a Peltier cooler is to take advantage of its temperature differential over a short distance.  One could put it between the heater block and the heat sink, requiring a hole in the cooler for the filament to feed through.  The Peltier effect has a limit of a 70°C maximum differential between the hot and cold side.  Another limit is manufactures list a maximum temperature of 200°C on the hot side.  This is usually because of solder joints.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The Peltier cooler would need to be customer made to fit between the heater block and heat sink a) hole in the middle, b) designed to withstand heater block temperatures &amp;gt;200°C.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The heat sink probably still needs a fan due to the maximum temperature differential of 70°C.   A 70°C maximum temperature differential makes it difficult to be the only source of cooling.  Rarely are Peltier coolers the only source of cooling.  Only when they are in an insulated barrier such as in the wall of a ice chest.  Other wise the heat from the hot side mixes with the cold side. Peltier coolers move heat from one surface of the material a short distance to the other side of the material.  If you don't cool the hot side of the material, when using it in an open area such as an extruder, the heat will circle back around to the cold side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Its main advantage would be a fast drop in temperature between the heater block and heat sink.  However, it is an expensive project, and one needs to evaluate of this could be better achieved by other methods.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Links using Peltier cooling with 3D printers:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thermoelectric.com/3d-printing/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.thermoelectric.com/3d-printing/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://dyzedesign.com/2020/02/water-cooling-and-peltier-cooling-in-3d-printers/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://dyzedesign.com/2020/02/water-cooling-and-peltier-cooling-in-3d-printers/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/comments/bmwepl/has_anyone_tried_peltier_cooling_for_the_part/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/comments/bmwepl/has_anyone_tried_peltier_cooling_for_the_part/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://hackaday.io/project/26369-better-cooling-for-3d-printer-extruders&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://hackaday.io/project/26369-better-cooling-for-3d-printer-extruders&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Visual example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cold plate&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AcsEl.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AcsEl.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15075" LastEditorUserId="15075" LastEditDate="2020-12-12T15:25:37.133" LastActivityDate="2020-12-12T15:25:37.133" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15007" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-12-10T21:37:38.750" Score="-1" ViewCount="1349" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just installed a BLTouch sensor on my Ender 3 Pro (using firmware version: &lt;code&gt;Ender-3 Pro1.1.6BLTouchV3.1PowerLossContinueEnglish&lt;/code&gt;), it all works great but each time I set the Z-offset I need to add it again.  I home it, it requires -2.9 mm to get a paper sheet thickness from bed so I added that to my 0.00 Z-offset.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I did a test print, the nozzle was way above bed, so I home the head, moved the Z axis and once again it is 2.9 mm to the correct location.  Added this to my Z-offset again...  been doing this now for a while and my offset is current at 11.2 mm! I did it on the screen and saved, hence up to 11.2 on the z offset now. If I power off and back on it once again is 2.9 mm from the correct location?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25668" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-12-11T15:58:22.790" LastActivityDate="2023-12-27T01:08:25.993" Title="BLTouch Z offset needs changes" Tags="|creality-ender-3|z-axis|bltouch|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15008" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2020-12-11T07:14:22.717" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The CreatBot DX and DX+ (enlarged Z height) are steel plate constructed frame printers to ensure stability when printing.They use a Cartesian style kinematics/mechanical system that is similar to the Ultimaker kinematics/mechanics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This printer series is one of their first products and is upgraded under the same product name, so newer versions may differ from older versions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-12-11T11:38:22.550" LastActivityDate="2020-12-11T11:38:22.550" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15009" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2020-12-11T07:14:22.717" Score="0" Body="For questions about the CreatBo DX family printers" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-12-11T11:38:22.550" LastActivityDate="2020-12-11T11:38:22.550" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15012" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10345" CreationDate="2020-12-11T17:23:42.057" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just leaving this note here as I have had my own BLTouch issues, maybe it will help someone else...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;V4.2.2 board on an Ender 3. BLTouch V3&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was getting inconsistent failures on both home and bed level, also would drive into the bed on occasions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would first recommend keeping your Z stop switch connected (the BLTouch uses the five pin header on the V4 boards, not the Z stop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried with extension cable and connectors, then hard wired the extension cable, also removed the pin header plastic body on the connector going into the board (as it's not the right type, and sits a bit too high) to make the cable ensure good connection to V4 board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Correctly levelled bed, Z stop, was getting awesome prints with stock Creality firmware for Ender 3 Pro and BLTouch on v4.2.2 board (without adaptor board version).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Still random crashes into the bed and random bed level fails.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm racking my brains, replaced nearly all wiring, made sure good connections, changed to Marlin 2.X.X bugfix (which you load onto SD and turn the machine on).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Still random crashes into the bed and bed level fails.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I'm now getting close to, this has to be a faulty touch surely, I've done my fair share of electronics repair being an electronics engineer by trade.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm looking at the touch, I see a solonoid, I checked how it works, the ferrite core looks flush with the top of the touch housing. I turn it a full turn into the touch. I'm getting less errors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think I finally ended up turning it about 0.5 mm to a 1 mm into the housing. All seems much better. No fails or crashes since the last tweak of the ferrite grub screw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the sensor is a little off on the Ender, and I hear they are, then maybe the position of the ferrite is more sensitive on these machines. That will affect the magnetic flux of the sensor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also found a link brief on the V3 probes and there is a section that points out a 0.3 mm gap from top of ferrite to top of probe stated, mine was flush.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have ordered another just to be on the safe side but I think this may have helped stop my random fails.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After moving house, pulling printer down and rebuilding, I had this issue again... groan....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This time I found the issue, its firmware.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After going through 2 touch probes, rewired (again), screening touch to ground and more, still doing it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I got the latest marlin 2.0.9, compiled it, boom, not a single failure......&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;lesson learnt&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25677" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-07-07T15:17:21.710" LastActivityDate="2021-07-07T15:17:21.710" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15013" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10611" CreationDate="2020-12-11T19:10:57.847" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found that at least the following two RAMPS 1.6 derived boards are 24 V capable without modifications:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bigtreetech RAMPS 1.6 Plus (see the PCB layout picture in &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.roboter-bausatz.de/3080/ramps-1.6-plus-3d-drucker-steuerung&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this offer&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;King Print RAMPS 1.6 Plus&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This information is so far only from webshop offers, so might not be the most reliable (and I did not test it myself yet). If somebody can find a confirmation from the manufacturer's spec documents, please let me know.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2463" LastActivityDate="2020-12-11T19:10:57.847" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15014" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14991" CreationDate="2020-12-11T19:21:06.873" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Use the profile for any Ender 3 model, or better yet just start from scratch and put in the important properties that actually vary per machine - bed size, temperatures needed, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cura profiles for specific printers, especially the ones Youtubers are promoting, are almost always misguided if not outright wrong. They're a mix something like 5-10% settings that are actually physical characteristics of the machine, and another 5-10% dubious settings that are tradeoffs that &lt;em&gt;might&lt;/em&gt; help avoid common problems for the machine at the expense of making other (often worse) problems, and the remaining 80-90% personal preferences of the person who made the profile. For instance, looking at Cura's base Creality profile:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Machine max accelerations are all wrong, at 500 mm/s². The machine can actually handle at least 3000 mm/s², and unless you've updated firmware to have Linear Advance, increasing acceleration is the only way to avoid inconsistent extrusion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Z speed limit and acceleration are very low. This makes seam more severe and has no benefit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Print speeds are random and differ per type (outer wall, inner wall, skin, infill, etc.) which doesn't work right on a bowden machine without Linear Advance firmware.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Z seam type is overridden. This is purely personal preference and has nothing to do with the type of printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Gaps filling settings are overridden. Same issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Retraction settings are botched, especially increase of window for max retraction count from 4.5 mm (default) to 10 mm, which will cause severe omission of retractions (thus stringing, oozing, and failed adhesion) in any print with thin layers and fine detail.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Enabling skirt. This is purely preference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Lots of support settings. What's needed here is 90% of a function of the object you're printing and 10% a function of your machine's properties and there's no indication that the settings in the profile have anything to do with properties of Creality machines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Etc. etc. etc. Most of the above dubious/wrong stuff was added fairly recently in Cura, taken from the &amp;quot;Creawsome&amp;quot; profile popular on Youtube and Reddit. Before that they had a more minimal profile that at least wasn't wrong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The actual properties you need to set in the profile for your particular machine are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bed size/print volume&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Heated bed&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Filament diameter&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Nozzle size&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Retraction length (depends on hotend and extruder type, bowden tube length if bowden)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Retraction speeds (depends on extruder capability &amp;amp; friction in path, etc.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fan speeds (depends on how powerful your fan is)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Setting max speeds and accelerations is also useful to get more accurate print time predictions, but not necessary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2020-12-11T19:21:06.873" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15015" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15007" CreationDate="2020-12-11T19:36:02.293" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can't really follow the information provided but I've read that Creality had some issues with saving settings if there was no SD-card in the printer when saving, could this be the issue?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would recommend trying another firmware (not from Creality but something like Smith3D.com (&lt;a href=&quot;https://smith3d.com/ender-3-v2-bltouch-firmware-installation-guide-by-smith3d-com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://smith3d.com/ender-3-v2-bltouch-firmware-installation-guide-by-smith3d-com/&lt;/a&gt;) which I've used before with success.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're willing to pay for precompiled firmware (and support the Marlin developers) I can also recommend &lt;a href=&quot;https://marlin.crc.id.au/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://marlin.crc.id.au/&lt;/a&gt; (which I use now)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25678" LastActivityDate="2020-12-11T19:36:02.293" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15016" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15021" CreationDate="2020-12-11T20:20:48.493" Score="1" ViewCount="1000" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to log each line of G-code to the serial port as it is processed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Steps to achieve&lt;/strong&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the printer reads a file from the SD card&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;each line it reads will be serial logged (this I can't figure out)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;those lines can then read via the serial monitor on a laptop&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So by the end of the print, on my laptop I would have the reconstructed G-code file (plus whatever other logs the printer outputs).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The printer runs the Prusa Firmware. Ideally I would like to achieve the logging from altering the firmware rather than adding an extra plugin/server (For understanding and experimenting purposes).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What I tried&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have looked in code and found &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/prusa3d/Prusa-Firmware/blob/MK3/Firmware/Marlin.h#L99&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;the print functions&lt;/a&gt; and examples of them in use in the code. This line is the &amp;quot;&lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/prusa3d/Prusa-Firmware/blob/MK3/Firmware/cmdqueue.h#L43&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;command, which is to be excecuted right now&lt;/a&gt;&amp;quot;, but I think that would be the just one command not the full line.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/prusa3d/Prusa-Firmware/blob/MK3/Firmware/cardreader.cpp&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;cardreader&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/prusa3d/Prusa-Firmware/blob/MK3/Firmware/SdBaseFile.cpp&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;SdBaseFile&lt;/a&gt; are where I would expect a G-code line to be read such that I could add a print statement after it but I did not see where.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would it be as easy as setting this &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/prusa3d/Prusa-Firmware/blob/MK3/Firmware/cardreader.cpp#L30&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;card.logging&lt;/a&gt; bool to true?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I imagine this is quite an easy thing to do and that I have just overcomplicated it by trying to understand the firmware. Any advice would be great!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25679" LastEditorUserId="25679" LastEditDate="2020-12-12T10:20:49.917" LastActivityDate="2020-12-12T17:50:04.923" Title="How to log each G-code line read from the SD card to serial on marlin firmware" Tags="|marlin|g-code|serial-connection|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15017" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15016" CreationDate="2020-12-11T21:50:06.133" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have the hardware at hand, you can use OctoPrint to collect the data you require. It's common for users to create an OctoPrint server on a Raspberry Pi, but it can be installed easily on a Windows or Linux machine as well. Once in place, logging is available for various types of information.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the &lt;a href=&quot;https://community.octoprint.org/t/where-can-i-find-octoprints-and-octopis-log-files/299&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;OctoPrint blog&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The logs are crucial instruments of analysis and debugging, so it's usually in your best interest to provide them when asking for help or reporting a bug, even if not explicitly prompted for them:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;octoprint.log: OctoPrint's main application log file. Contains a&#xA;general log of everything that happens while OctoPrint is running.&#xA;Includes version information, installed plugins and a myriad of more&#xA;data points.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This must always be included when reporting a bug 47 to allow for&#xA;further analysis and reproduction. It is also a very good idea to&#xA;provide this when asking for help :wink:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;serial.log: A log of all of the communication going on between&#xA;OctoPrint and your printer. Usually disabled for performance reasons,&#xA;enable it through Settings &amp;gt; Serial Connection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Either that or at the very least the output in OctoPrint's Terminal&#xA;tab is crucial for analysis of any kind of communication issues or&#xA;misbehaviours observed with your printer, so it's important to include&#xA;it when discussing such issues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;plugin_pluginmanager_console.log: A log of the command line activity&#xA;of the plugin manager. Very important for analysis of such questions&#xA;like &amp;quot;Why can't I install plugin $xyz?&amp;quot;, so if you have such a&#xA;problem, best include this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;plugin_softwareupdate_console.log: A log of the command line activity&#xA;of the software updater. Very important for analysis of such questions&#xA;like &amp;quot;Updating OctoPrint always fails, why?&amp;quot;, so if you have such a&#xA;problem, best include this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Third party plugins might also have special log files here. If a plugin author asks you to provide a special log created by their plugin for further analysis, this should be where you can find it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The above selection is from the linked site, which also includes embedded links for more information regarding the log files. Note that serial.log is specifically referenced to collect data between OctoPrint and your printer, although it defaults to disabled on install.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastActivityDate="2020-12-11T21:50:06.133" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15018" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-12-11T21:51:04.650" Score="1" ViewCount="244" Body="&lt;p&gt;My Anet A8 Plus worked normally, but after the weekend and changing for new bearings on the rods, it is not working anymore at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I experience random reboots, the nozzle can only heat to about 10 °C away from the target and then starts to drop, the printer gives the halted error.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Example: Target is 240 °C, the nozzle temperature goes to like 232 °C and then starts to drop pretty fast. The Bed heats good otherwise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;troubleshooting so far&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The PSU gives 24 V and the supply voltage switch is 220 V like it should. No matter if I try print it through OctoPrint or Cura, the same thing happens.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How it can break this bad just from replacing a few bearings is not clear to me. Do these reboots mean the PSU is dead and not giving constant voltage? Reboots come even idle or just bed heating etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25682" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2020-12-12T11:52:25.603" LastActivityDate="2021-09-08T14:01:15.147" Title="Printer halted! Psu dead?" Tags="|marlin|anet-a8|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15019" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14741" CreationDate="2020-12-12T11:16:53.837" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;code&gt;MAXTEMP&lt;/code&gt; and &lt;code&gt;MINTEMP&lt;/code&gt; are &lt;strong&gt;not&lt;/strong&gt; part of the &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/8466/what-is-thermal-runaway-protection&quot;&gt;Thermal Runaway Protection&lt;/a&gt;, but separate, equally needed safety nets: Mintemp is meant to make sure that the printer does not try to run cold, Maxtemp is the operational limit of your printer - if the machine tries to go hotter, the firmware denies and shuts down. Maxtemp is usually set to about 235 °C for a lined hotend.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A defective thermosensor can trigger Mintemp and Maxtemp errors by virtue of either shorting or by having no connectivity. The same behavior is exploited in a simple test if the triggers are set: disconnect the leads for unlimited resistance that the board interprets as an absurd high temperature, then short the leads, as 0 Ohm registers as an insanely low temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2020-12-13T00:53:48.457" LastActivityDate="2020-12-13T00:53:48.457" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15020" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15018" CreationDate="2020-12-12T12:05:05.207" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Reboots happen in 2 cases on a printer:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If the board power has been below a the operational threshold (~3 V) and the capacitors on the board are empty, the power dip can result in a reboot.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If a device connects to the serial-USB port, it reboots.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you power up the printer not connected to any other device, it should run continuously. If it flickers and reboots, the power-lines to the board or the PSU are bad. Check those in reverse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it only reboots again and again when connected to a serial port (PC, Octoprint etc), your problem is the cable - it might be jiggling or be defective, or otherwise de- and re-connect again and again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastActivityDate="2020-12-12T12:05:05.207" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15021" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15016" CreationDate="2020-12-12T17:50:04.923" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;In &lt;code&gt;cmdqueue.h&lt;/code&gt; the &lt;code&gt;CMDBUFFER_DEBUG&lt;/code&gt; macro is defined (&lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/prusa3d/Prusa-Firmware/blob/MK3/Firmware/cmdqueue.h#L47&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;see here&lt;/a&gt;) which will log lots of information related to the commands being processed. Probably more information than you need...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To log only the commands as they are processed (i.e. when the printer moves and extrudes etc.) you need &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/prusa3d/Prusa-Firmware/blob/MK3/Firmware/Marlin_main.cpp#L3696&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this line from marlin_main.cpp&lt;/a&gt;: &lt;code&gt;SERIAL_ECHO(cmdbuffer+bufindr+CMDHDRSIZE);&lt;/code&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can copy this outside of the &lt;code&gt;#ifdef CMDBUFFER_DEBUG&lt;/code&gt; condition and compile the firmware then when you connect to the serial port each G-code line the printer processes will be logged.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25679" LastActivityDate="2020-12-12T17:50:04.923" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15022" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-12-12T18:30:52.740" Score="5" ViewCount="2494" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I'm making my friend a Monado sword replica and I've printed the handle in 2 pieces as to fill it with electronics and then superglue the 2 halves together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I seem to have put too much on and it's leaked out and spread as shown in the picture..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know how to get the dried glue off?&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/h0LGa.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/h0LGa.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(PS. The glue is called &amp;quot;NO NONSENSE SUPERGLUE&amp;quot;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23354" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2020-12-13T00:55:40.513" LastActivityDate="2023-11-17T16:31:11.950" Title="How to get superglue off PLA filament?" Tags="|pla|post-processing|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15023" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-12-12T20:40:03.983" Score="2" ViewCount="2209" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a problem most likely similar to some reported by other users: the extruder stepper is visually skipping a step occasionally. It rapidly rotates in the direction opposite to the one it is supposed to turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I noticed the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The extruder stepper jumps randomly - nothing specific in the pattern printed, position, etc.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Stepper jumps more often on the infill, rarely on the walls.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Details about print:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;PLA (Devil Design - various colors, they don't matter)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Filament guide installed on top, but not yet before the extruder (it is printing right now; I'm waiting for the ball bearings too)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Filament mounted on the top - in the place defined by Creality&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The extruder is already replaced with the aluminium one&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The mainboard is SKR E3 mini V2 (replaced recently)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;95% flow set in Cura&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Printing on glass, leveled bed (the jumping occurs on all layers, not only first)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;215 °C hotend temperature, 60 °C bed temperature&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Stepper motor current settings (from Marlin menu): 580 for X, Y &amp;amp; Z, 650 for E1&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other observations:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What's interesting is that the extruder motor jumps even if I manually unwind some filament, so the only force it has to overcome is pushing filament into the head.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I made a quick DIY wooden spool holder to feed the filament almost horizontally. This seemed to make things worse - stepper jumped more often. I moved the spool to the top again, reducing jumping a little.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Prints are done beautifully (after changing the motherboard) - no lost lines or layers, walls connected with infill, perfect first layer, etc.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What may be the cause of stepper motor jumping? How can I solve it? Does it pose a threat to the motor or stepper? I need to print the filament guide and spool holder with ball bearings to minimize the force required by the extruder motor, but then the stepper will probably jump during the prints. I already damaged the original mainboard because of the stuck filament, and I don't want to destroy another one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is how regular extruder retraction looks:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/h0c7APCTKLM?start=0&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt; (10 seconds)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is how stepper skipping looks:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/KCmNs9ixzPQ?start=0&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt; (13 seconds)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Today I replaced the whole heat block (radiator, heater, thermistor and nozzle) to a new one (original, for now) and the motor stopped skipping - at least on the calibration cube. I will see, how will it perform on more complex prints.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, even having the prior one in hands, I couldn't find the reason, why the motor was skipping - other than the fact, that I couldn't extract the bowden tube from the radiator (so maybe some filament was dripping inside?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15102" LastEditorUserId="36802" LastEditDate="2023-12-03T18:03:14.560" LastActivityDate="2024-01-02T19:07:05.847" Title="What is causing the extruder stepper on my Ender 3 to skip steps?" Tags="|creality-ender-3|stepper|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15024" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15022" CreationDate="2020-12-12T20:51:04.917" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've used Acetone before. However that said I've not had the need to remove it from PLA. Not sure how PLA reacts to Acetone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A link that may be of use.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.art-us.com/how-to-get-super-glue-off-almost-anything/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.art-us.com/how-to-get-super-glue-off-almost-anything/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25699" LastActivityDate="2020-12-12T20:51:04.917" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15025" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15022" CreationDate="2020-12-12T21:49:25.660" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;In agreement with what Akriss said, pretty much all &amp;quot;super&amp;quot; glue is CA (cyanoacrylate) glue, which is soluble in acetone. PLA itself is does not dissolve in or react with acetone, but the pigments, additives, etc. likely do, so you should wipe with a paper towel or cloth (the latter might be better to avoid getting fibers stuck on the glue) soaked in acetone rather than pouring it over the piece or submerging it, to limit the effects. Also, test first on a scrap piece printed with the same filament to ensure the results aren't unacceptably bad.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastEditorUserId="11157" LastEditDate="2020-12-12T22:05:11.200" LastActivityDate="2020-12-12T22:05:11.200" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15030" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15023" CreationDate="2020-12-13T18:18:02.713" Score="0" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a problem most likely very similar to some reported by other users: extruder stepper is visually skipping a step from time to time. It rapidly rotates in the direction opposite to the one it is supposed to rotate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These two sentences are saying something totally different, and the latter is not what a skipped step looks like. It sounds like retraction, which is totally normal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2020-12-13T18:18:02.713" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15031" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14003" CreationDate="2020-12-13T19:39:03.003" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Try unplugging the USB lead as soon as the printer starts to print (I had similar issue and this worked for me).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25702" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-12-13T22:52:22.773" LastActivityDate="2020-12-13T22:52:22.773" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15032" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15033" CreationDate="2020-12-13T19:59:52.017" Score="1" ViewCount="52" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an MK3S 3D printer, and I use this table as a reference on how to tune my printer for a specific Filament&#xA;brand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://help.prusa3d.com/en/materials&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://help.prusa3d.com/en/materials&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am trying to find a few missing parameters for a specific brand Filament PLA in the table.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The missing parameters are listed and shown in the image below.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Heat deflection temperature&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Impact resistance Charpy&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tensile strength&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Z51nv.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Z51nv.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Where is the best place or reference to find such missing data?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25720" LastActivityDate="2020-12-13T20:50:34.810" Title="Where to find &quot;Heat deflection temperature&quot; , &quot;Impact resistance Charpy&quot; and &quot;Tensile strength&quot; for a specific brand Filament PLA?" Tags="|pla|prusa-i3|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15033" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15032" CreationDate="2020-12-13T20:50:34.810" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Unless the Manufacturer offers them, you have to extrapolate from other brands. Most PLAs are very close and hit within 10% of one another.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastActivityDate="2020-12-13T20:50:34.810" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15034" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-12-13T23:53:58.693" Score="0" ViewCount="23186" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am new to 3D printing and just purchased an Ender 3 V2 about two weeks ago. Since I've got it, I've been having trouble leveling the bed. I've tried watching videos, but they don't say how much friction on the paper is good or bad. I have even tried foil, playing cards, and a business card but still can't tell if it's good enough or not. Then when I would try printing calibration squares and adjust as it prints, but when it prints all looks good when printing the outside ring, but when it gets to the square parts there are bumps on the print from the nozzle being too close. Also when I seem to have corner perfect, when it gets to the center it's too close to the nozzle and doesn't even print. I'm using the stock glass bed so I'm not sure if that could be the issue. This is getting frustrating as I really want to start printing. And I want to save money for other parts and try avoiding purchasing a BL Touch if I don't need to. Am I doing something wrong? How can I get this resolved?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Forgot to mention, I upgraded the springs to these yellow ones on Amazon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25723" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-12-14T07:24:07.813" LastActivityDate="2020-12-15T10:20:33.910" Title="Can't get bed to level properly" Tags="|creality-ender-3|bed-leveling|glass-bed|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15035" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15034" CreationDate="2020-12-14T01:33:03.863" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Don't worry too much about it. If you print with a first layer height of 0.3mm, bed levelling only needs to be approximate. If that doesn't work, and you cannot get good bed adhesion, try printing onto blue painter's tape (ScotchBlue). This makes a very forgiving build surface. You will need to clean it well with isopropyl alcohol (or acetone), since it is coated with a wax-based release agent that may prevent the filament from sticking. Once you have got used to printing, you can then refine your bed-levelling techniques.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3953" LastActivityDate="2020-12-14T01:33:03.863" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15036" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15034" CreationDate="2020-12-14T08:00:10.483" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;First, make sure the slate of glass is straight, this can be checked with e.g. a metal ruler on its side against the glass surface. If the glass isn't straight (which should be per the production process of glass, but there have been reported bad glass beds) you never get a perfect level over the whole bed. Also make sure the glass sits on a clean heated bed plate (no debris between the heater and the glass).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second, level the bed, start with powering the printer. You need to sequentially do the following as adjusting the one corner (screw), affects the other corners (continue this until the bed is level and the one corner doesn't affect the other corners anymore):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Home the machine,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;heat up the bed and nozzle to e.g. PLA printing temperatures,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;move the nozzle close to a corner (a different one than the previous corner),&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;put a piece of plain printing paper on the bed,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;lower the nozzle to Z=0,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;adjust the screw in that corner until the piece of paper can be dragged under the nozzle with a slight resistance,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;repeat by starting with homing the printer.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After several rounds of leveling and having a level/straight bed to begin with, you should have a leveled bed that has been leveled against the printers' X-axis.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, when printing something it should be level, the only thing that might not be correct is the distance between the nozzle and the bed. E.g. some users prefer a larger distance between bed and nozzle when printing PETG &lt;a href=&quot;/a/11177/&quot;&gt;(not my personal experience, but a generally accepted truth)&lt;/a&gt;. This distance can be tuned without having to re-level your bed; you could if you want to use a thicker or thinner paper, but you can easily change the Z=0 by &lt;a href=&quot;/a/4746/&quot;&gt;redefining the Z=0 level&lt;/a&gt; at e.g. 0.10 mm height if the nozzle to close. Some slicers even allow you to add an offset (e.g. the &lt;a href=&quot;/a/5939/&quot;&gt;&amp;quot;Z Offset Setting&amp;quot; plugin in Ultimaker Cura&lt;/a&gt; from developer &amp;quot;FieldOfView&amp;quot;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you have dialed in the distance also correctly, you should get perfect prints.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do note that a common issue with these over-constraint &amp;quot;cantilever&amp;quot; printer designs is that by powering a single side, the opposite needs to follow exactly, that is a challenge with that many parts. My preference is using dual lead screws, preferably driven by a timing belt for Prusa type printers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Addressing the BLTouch part in your question; before you wander in the world of automatic bed leveling (AB) you should first master getting a level bed, or fix the X-axis rollers on Z beams. For ABL you also need to level your bed first else you get non-square prints. The roller solution is one of the major drawbacks of these printers, you need to make sure the X-axis (aluminum extrusion bar) stays level (or better trammed) in relation to the bed level, loose rollers should be properly tensioned.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-12-15T10:20:33.910" LastActivityDate="2020-12-15T10:20:33.910" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15039" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15034" CreationDate="2020-12-14T17:55:42.677" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you find the bed on an Ender 3 doesn't seem to &amp;quot;take&amp;quot; a level - in other words, if you keep trying to level it and things seem right, but then it's obviously wrong when you actually start printing, and checking the leveling doesn't seem to match what you set before - the problem is most likely in the Z axis mechanics. The Z assembly (including the X axis gantry) is highly &lt;em&gt;overconstrained&lt;/em&gt;, between the 6 wheels, the lead screw nut, and the 4 screws attaching the gantry to the Z carriages. When it's not functioning properly, whether from fighting constraints, overtightening, undertightening, etc. you can end up with really bad reproducability* of position in the Z axis, so that homing and moving to a particular Z coordinate gives different results each time you repeat, due to which components bind and which ones give.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this is your problem, I don't have a good system for solving it. I've fought with it on and off over 2 years of owning one of these machines. At least you should check that the 2 screws holding the left side of the gantry to the Z carriage are very tight (note: they're hidden and inaccessible without taking off the top bar and raising the assembly off the Z extrusions) and that the gantry is mounted level to the carriage bracket, since any play here will ruin everything. One easy thing you can try to confirm whether you have leveling reproducability problems from Z axis problems is disconnecting the right side carriage entirely and tying it off at the top so it doesn't interfere; you can do this without disassembling anything else. This lets you operate the Ender 3 &amp;quot;as an Ender 2&amp;quot;, i.e. with a cantilever setup. It's less rigid and probably not a good choice overall, but if it solves your problem then your problem is almost surely something in the overconstrained Z system and now you know where to look.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2020-12-14T17:55:42.677" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15040" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10640" CreationDate="2020-12-14T20:38:55.150" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If what Thomas Sanladerer states is correct, the Mars 2 Pro (monochrome LCD, no color filter) has a layer time approximately 1/3 as long as the Mars/Pro printers (where color LCDs are used):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/0yZ4KiK_pl0?start=0&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This would indicate that the light passing through the LCD, when the color filter is present, is 1/3. Put it in other words, only ONE subpixel is capable of transmitting UV light.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Consequently, using all of them would not improve resolution because the other subpixels are always opaque.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2338" LastActivityDate="2020-12-14T20:38:55.150" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15042" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8023" CreationDate="2020-12-14T21:59:29.820" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Using a CR-10S which printed fine for about 6 months (PLA, 200/58°C), then similar problems started: Interestingly, the height of the &amp;quot;problem zone&amp;quot; appeared to be related to the melting point of the PLA used: lower melting point = problems appear at a lower height. Suspecting heat creep, I swapped both hot-end fans... but things got only marginally better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As I could rule out extruder issues (metal extruder, new gear), the bowden tube (replaced, upgraded couplings), I looked at the hotend again. There was clearly not enough &amp;quot;melting power&amp;quot; (25mm/sec would print ok, but not 50mm/sec). I then checked the INSIDE temperature of the heater block (butting a thermocouple right behind the nozzle, with the bowden tube removed)... turns out that 200°C (set in Cura and shown on the display) are more like 180°C! In order to get near 200°C, I had to set 220°C in the slicer - and printing DID improve (underextrusions greatly reduced).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm still not happy with the situation, b/c deviations like this usually don't come out of the blue... it's not the first time that I read about CR10/CR10S hotend temperatures not being read correctly, so I suspect that this might be the reason for many &amp;quot;mysteriously&amp;quot; unter-extruding CR10s... (BTW: my temp values don't fluctuate and I have the correct capacitor on the mainboard).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25739" LastActivityDate="2020-12-14T21:59:29.820" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15044" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15034" CreationDate="2020-12-15T05:16:17.963" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Step 1: stop using paper and get some feeler gauges. The gauge should be able to just barely pass under the HEATED nozzle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Step 2: What are you using for bed adhesion? I use Elmer's white glue. After you think you've trammed (aka levelled) the bed, apply a generous layer of the glue in a coat on the bed. Let it dry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Step 3: Verify bed level with a large square print that will cause the head to move to the outermost parts of the bed. Stop the print after a few outlines. Try to remove the print. If some areas are easier to remove than others, apply another coat of Elmer's glue to those areas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: Do not hold down all four (4) corners of the glass bed. The aluminium plate is not going to be flatter than the glass. Only attach the glass to the bed on one side of the bed. I use the side that is furthest from the nozzle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12857" LastActivityDate="2020-12-15T05:16:17.963" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15048" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15050" CreationDate="2020-12-16T00:34:05.570" Score="1" ViewCount="425" Body="&lt;p&gt;I 3D modeled a cartoon car using Blender, mostly using add and subtract with boolean tools. When I export to Ultimaker Cura, I get these cuts along the model. Does anyone know why this is happening? Appreciate any feedback on the model.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/y4Tvv.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/y4Tvv.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DHH8o.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DHH8o.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The blender file: &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/dantedaiki/jQuery-File-Upload/blob/master/Cartoon%20Car.blend&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://github.com/dantedaiki/jQuery-File-Upload/blob/master/Cartoon%20Car.blend&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25761" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-12-16T06:41:27.403" LastActivityDate="2020-12-16T16:41:30.120" Title="3D model with errors when exporting to Cura" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|3d-models|blender|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15049" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15072" CreationDate="2020-12-16T05:28:20.253" Score="0" ViewCount="2242" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was five hours into a six hour print and got a 28 mm X direction layer shift. No idea what caused it. I stopped the print cleaned the bed and (via Pronterface) went to home the bed (&lt;code&gt;G28&lt;/code&gt;). The gantry homed X and Y and then I got the following message:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Error:Printer stopped due to errors. Fix the error and use &lt;code&gt;M999&lt;/code&gt; to restart. (Temperature is reset. &amp;gt;Set it after restarting)&#xA;[ERROR] Error:Printer stopped due to errors. Fix the error and use &lt;code&gt;M999&lt;/code&gt; to restart. (Temperature is &amp;gt;reset. Set it after restarting)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Error:!! STOP called because of BLTouch error - restart with M999&#xA;[ERROR] Error:!! STOP called because of BLTouch error - restart with &lt;code&gt;M999&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Entering &lt;code&gt;M999&lt;/code&gt; followed by &lt;code&gt;G28&lt;/code&gt; just reproduced the error. I powered down and then checked the BLTouch connections. The white signal wire seemed a bit loose, so I tightened that. All other wires are secure. Powering back up, the BLTouch did not do its normal probe up and down routine. The main red light flickered for about three seconds, it then flashed 7 times and then came on fully. At the end of the flashing, the blue LED on the circuit board also came on. Testing, the black and white signal wires gave a reading of 0.975 kΩ.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had homed and levelled the bed (&lt;code&gt;G28&lt;/code&gt;, &lt;code&gt;G29&lt;/code&gt;) then saved the data (&lt;code&gt;M500&lt;/code&gt;) prior to starting to the six hour print print earlier with no problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Printer: Hypercube Evolution (CoreXY) with KFB2.0 board running 24 V.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Genuine Antclab BLTouch v1.0.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anybody any idea what has happened?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23909" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-12-16T06:55:37.287" LastActivityDate="2020-12-21T12:28:42.373" Title="BLTouch Stopped Working" Tags="|troubleshooting|bltouch|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15050" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15048" CreationDate="2020-12-16T16:41:30.120" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;In blender, you can occasionally have faces with flipped normals. Those areas then are &amp;quot;inside out&amp;quot;. Such areas are just ignored in Cura. Fixing the files is as simple as recalculating the normals, but you'd best use a program like &lt;a href=&quot;https://service.netfabb.com/login.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;NetFabb&lt;/a&gt; for for that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastActivityDate="2020-12-16T16:41:30.120" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15051" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-12-16T17:20:49.563" Score="1" ViewCount="1000" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to print &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4461654&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;a gear for a robovac deal&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The issue I'm having is with gaps between the walls of the top part of the gear. It needs to have the corners filled to provide stability or else the tabs easily snap. I've tried adjusting the nozzle size, line width, filter gaps and print thin walls but seems to slice with variations on the same issue. Is this a Cura issue? Is there anyway to slice and print this to fill those gaps?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0g7zy.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0g7zy.png&quot; alt=&quot;gear with gaps between walls&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25766" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-12-16T22:15:02.077" LastActivityDate="2022-02-24T22:19:09.850" Title="How do I fill missing corners in Cura" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|slicing|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15053" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7533" CreationDate="2020-12-17T00:17:19.450" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The more infill, the more material. The more material, the more stress is inside the part while it cools down from printing temperature to ambient temperature. Parts with higher infill density tend to warp more (the edges curl up).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But 20 % should be fine, you shouldn't have any issue at that percentage (unless you're printing with ABS/ASA).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think it's a first layer issue, the 0.2 mm first layer gets more 'squished' onto the bed, thats why you get better adhesion. I'm using PrusaSlicer, every default print profile in PrusaSlicer uses a 0.2 mm first layer, maybe there is something like that in Cura too?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example the 0.1 mm PrusaSlicer profile will squish a 0.2 mm first layer onto the bed and changes to 0.1 mm layers for the rest of the print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25790" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-12-17T10:08:15.687" LastActivityDate="2020-12-17T10:08:15.687" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15054" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15065" CreationDate="2020-12-17T12:30:03.440" Score="6" ViewCount="2417" Body="&lt;p&gt;Before I start, I'll give you my setup:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ender 3 Pro&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Marlin 2.0.7.2&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Material/Nozzle: PETG 0.4 mm @ 215 °C&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bed: Glass @ 80 °C&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Default printing speed: 70 mm/s&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Standard part cooling fan&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since I've updated the Marlin FW on from factory default to 2.0.7.2, my printer stops printing and gives out an thermal runaway exception message.  Note that, after the firmware flash, I performed a PID-Tune multiple times.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem is absolutely repeatable and happens always on beginning of layer 2 (more precisely: 40 seconds after beginning layer 2). Changing PID values doesn't change anything to the moment of the error occurring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I managed to run it longer by repeatedly dropping the temperature set-point and making a photo of the temperature plot. First photo is right after the initial drop from 215 to 205 °C. Second is when the temperature started rising slowly again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/b67wW.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Right after the initial drop from 215 to 205 °C&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/b67wW.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Right after the initial drop from 215 to 205 °C&quot; title=&quot;Right after the initial drop from 215 to 205 °C&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BNF1j.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Temperature starting to rise slowly&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BNF1j.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Temperature starting to rise slowly&quot; title=&quot;Temperature starting to rise slowly&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After this temperature drop, the hotend temperature seemed to be much less stable and reached only 205 °C.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At Layer 12, the same thing happened again. But dropping the temperature far too low for PETG and having the &amp;quot;same&amp;quot; issue again, making me stop the print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This problem is pretty urgent and I haven't found any suitable solution by now. Do you have any ideas of what may cause this trouble? New heaters and thermistors are on their way right now. But I fear that this is not a hardware problem since none of the components are damaged and dysfunctional, nor the moment of failure is random.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25805" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2022-11-06T21:52:03.667" LastActivityDate="2022-11-06T21:52:03.667" Title="Thermal Runaway E1 at Layer 2" Tags="|marlin|creality-ender-3|petg|pid|thermal-runaway|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15055" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12094" CreationDate="2020-12-17T20:25:44.603" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It also works with the &lt;code&gt;.photon&lt;/code&gt; format of the Photon slicer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is only marginally better than ChituBox though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25813" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-12-17T22:27:18.200" LastActivityDate="2020-12-17T22:27:18.200" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15056" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13376" CreationDate="2020-12-17T20:36:25.200" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The issue was the filament sent with the printer was PETG and not PLA like this gcode file called for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20727" LastActivityDate="2020-12-17T20:36:25.200" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15060" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15061" CreationDate="2020-12-19T01:54:31.110" Score="1" ViewCount="185" Body="&lt;p&gt;Recently I cleaned up the bowden tube and the nozzle, after that I noticed the 3D was underextruding because the walls of the prints were weak and the first layer didnt adhere on the bed.&#xA;I watched some youtube tutorials on how to fix this and pulled the bowden tube until the nozzle, cleaned inside the tube and removed clogs.&#xA;My temporary fix is setting the flow on Cura to 200%.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I added a extruder visualizer and it seems to be working just fine.&#xA;Any ideas why it is underextruding?&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Hil0Q.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Hil0Q.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm using PLA at 200C, bed at 60C&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25761" LastActivityDate="2020-12-19T05:24:08.193" Title="Ender 5 Underextruding" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|hotend|underextrusion|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15061" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15060" CreationDate="2020-12-19T05:24:08.193" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you pulled the Bowden tube out of the hotend and then got this, you almost surely installed it wrong, leaving a gap between the tube and the nozzle for molten filament to fill and jam in. Remove it again with the hotend hot, and if there's a mess inside, look for guides on cleaning it. Then, to reassemble, loosen the fitting from the heat sink by 3/4 to one full turn, press the tube in as far as it will go, then tighten the fitting down to compress the tube against the nozzle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2020-12-19T05:24:08.193" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15062" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-12-19T14:36:19.837" Score="0" ViewCount="169" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to print lithophanes and having an issue with the nozzle moving through the previous layer and basically &amp;quot;drawing&amp;quot; through the print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've printed 3 lithophanes before with zero issues. Here are the settings for those:&#xA;0.4 mm nozzle&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;PLA&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Temperatures&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;nozzle temperature 210 °C&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;bed 70 °C&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;0.12 mm layer height&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;manual bed leveling&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;30 mm/s speed&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;stock Ender 3 mainboard&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's the settings for the prints I'm doing now with the 0.2 mm nozzle:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;PLA&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Temperatures&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;nozzle 210 °C&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;bed temp 70 ° C&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;0.12mm layer height&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;BLTouch auto bed leveling&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;20 mm/s speed&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;BigTreeTech mainboard&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's what I've done and looked at to fix it:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Calibrated extruder&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;manual bed leveling, then ABL&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;calibrated Z offset&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;checked for flat spots on rollers, there are none&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;tried including a Z hop with little success.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've referenced the following articles without solving the problem.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/4692/nozzle-rubs-on-previous-layers&quot;&gt;Nozzle rubs on previous layers&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/13358/ender-3-nozzle-gets-closer-and-closer-to-the-previous-layer-as-the-print-progres&quot;&gt;Ender 3 nozzle gets closer and closer to the previous layer as the print progresses&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Below are the two lithophanes, the first one successful and the second the failure. I have tried going back to the 0.4 mm nozzle and the old settings but I'm getting the same failures. The biggest difference is the mainboard switch and adding the BLTouch. I don't have any issues with my other prints (more traditional 3D models) only lithophanes. Any help and ideas would be appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dQUzt.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dQUzt.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;successful lithophane&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cNsJr.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cNsJr.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;failed lithophane&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25839" LastEditorUserId="4922" LastEditDate="2021-04-21T13:45:39.583" LastActivityDate="2021-04-21T13:45:39.583" Title="Ender 3 nozzle moves through previous layer on lithophane" Tags="|creality-ender-3|z-axis|nozzle|bigtreetech|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15063" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-12-19T15:20:46.340" Score="1" ViewCount="33" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm writing a research paper about the implications of additive manufacturing for space travel. As a part of this paper, I'm going to illustrate some of the drawbacks of 3D printed objects such as how the strength of an object depends on the direction of the force relative to the layer arrangement.&#xA;I was wondering if, alongside a practical demonstration, I could somehow use some high definition equipment to image the bonding of the plastic vertically and horizontally as a result of the 3D printing process?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would anyone know what kind of equipment I would need for such a thing(or if there are any studies about it)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25840" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-12-19T23:39:04.697" LastActivityDate="2020-12-19T23:39:04.697" Title="Question about viewing molecular structure of 3D printed objects" Tags="|print-material|print-strength|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15064" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="514" CreationDate="2020-12-20T08:01:07.617" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is an advantage to the one who builds the shield: They don't have to design the circuit that is on the Arduino (main board), possibly even including Wifi or USB communication. The components on board are more expensive in small volumes, so the ready made boards are even competitive in price. Developers get a proven and well known board, with perfect support in software toolchains. Depending on the solution, they might even have less trouble with certification, as the high frequency components are already known. So, they only have to design the shield, holding some motor controllers, sensors or similar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This makes it possible to produce small amounts of units very fast, which is also a benefit for the end users / end customers. It makes niche solutions possible at lower cost. Being able (if at all) to swap out a single component is likely not a real benefit, except if you enjoy taking your electronics apart.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14969" LastActivityDate="2020-12-20T08:01:07.617" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15065" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15054" CreationDate="2020-12-20T14:22:20.700" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It turned out, it was a faulty heater, that wasn't able to reach and maintain temperatures over 195 °C in a stable manner. The order came, had a new 50 W heater, thermistor and a PTFE-Bowden tube. It works just fine again, now!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25805" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-12-20T19:42:54.270" LastActivityDate="2020-12-20T19:42:54.270" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15066" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-12-20T15:36:50.810" Score="1" ViewCount="88" Body="&lt;p&gt;While printing a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3932302&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;paint rack from thingiverse&lt;/a&gt; I keep getting jams. Other prints (shorter) work fine. Can anyone give me a clue?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a &lt;a href=&quot;https://photos.app.goo.gl/PQuJwqNdYWSMTiwm6&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;video of the printer&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I thought it was heat creep so I increased the speed and decreased the hot end temperature. It generally prints for several hours then jams.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5369" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-01-17T22:55:19.717" LastActivityDate="2021-01-18T00:28:35.190" Title="Help fixing Prusa i3 MK3 print jams" Tags="|prusa-i3|extrusion|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15067" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-12-20T20:30:39.220" Score="3" ViewCount="274" Body="&lt;p&gt;This issue is completely leaving me lost, my printer extrudes too much and leaves blobs yet the gear will just suddenly start grinding as soon as it begins to fill in the outline of my print. The grinding keeps going and the filament coming out just continues to blob leaving my prints a complete disaster. What confuses me is the fact that if the gear was grinding it would no longer feed more filament. The blobs proceed to then harden leaving my end essentially stuck dragging across cooled filament and pouring out even more of it into a disaster.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25855" LastEditorUserId="25855" LastEditDate="2020-12-21T05:07:12.387" LastActivityDate="2022-01-15T08:03:25.363" Title="Over extruding and feeding gear is grinding Ender 3 pro" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|creality-ender-3|pla|extruder|troubleshooting|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15068" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8193" CreationDate="2020-12-20T22:25:12.093" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a cheap Chinese all-metal CR-10 hotend. I used to have a lot of heat creep, but after I setup my only 30x30 mm fan as a part fan to be 100 % at all times to cool the heat sink and retract 10 cm of filament after finishing the print, the heat creep went away.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can add this G-code after finishing the print to retract 10 cm of filament:&lt;code&gt;G1 E-100 F1200&lt;/code&gt;, so it prevents the filament to cool down and expand inside the heat sink.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another good way is setting up a fan to be up all the time to cool the heat sink. Since I don't have a heated bed and have a single fan, I've wired my fan to D8 pin (for RAMPS 1.6), then setup Marlin:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;code&gt;#define MOTHERBOARD BOARD_RAMPS_14_EFF&lt;/code&gt;  at &lt;code&gt;Configuration.h&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Make sure &lt;code&gt;src/pins/linux/pins_RAMPS_LINUX.h&lt;/code&gt; has:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#elif ENABLED(IS_RAMPS_EFF)                       // Hotend, Fan, Fan&#xA;  #define FAN_PIN                   RAMPS_D9_PIN&#xA;  #define FAN1_PIN                  RAMPS_D8_PIN&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At &lt;code&gt;Configuration_adv.h&lt;/code&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#define E0_AUTO_FAN_PIN FAN1_PIN&#xA;...&#xA;#define EXTRUDER_AUTO_FAN_TEMPERATURE 50&#xA;#define EXTRUDER_AUTO_FAN_SPEED 255   // 255 == full speed&#xA;#define CHAMBER_AUTO_FAN_TEMPERATURE 30&#xA;#define CHAMBER_AUTO_FAN_SPEED 255&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This means that your extruder 0 will have a fan connected at D8 pin running 100 % after it hits 50 °C all the time, thus helping with the heat creep issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25856" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-12-21T12:25:12.683" LastActivityDate="2020-12-21T12:25:12.683" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15070" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15067" CreationDate="2020-12-21T03:23:01.620" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds like a setting mismatch between your slicer settings and the physical printer configuration. Diagnostic and informational questions follow:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Can you provide more details of your machine configuration and your slicer settings?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Are you using the Creality Slicer?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Can you also provide more information about what you are attempting to print?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Are you printing a downloaded design or your own?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Have you printed successfully before? If so, the key question would be to ask what has changed.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a number of settings to check, but the first one that comes to mind is the filament diameter setting in the slicer. Secondary to that would be the flow percent. Check the diameter of your filament versus the setting in the slicer. The grinding of the gear makes me think that the physical filament diameter is larger than the slicer setting.  This could explain extruding too much material and producing &amp;quot;blobs&amp;quot; and also the grinding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25816" LastActivityDate="2020-12-21T03:23:01.620" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15071" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-12-21T03:24:56.900" Score="1" ViewCount="211" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Lulzbot Taz 6, which takes 2.85 mm filament.  A few months ago I ran into a filament (&lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B07HX9DY9F&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Spidermaker Matte PLA&lt;/a&gt;) which produced some really nice prints.  After experimenting with the white, I went looking for more and discovered that they have apparently discontinued all 2.85 filament.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I discovered &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.lulzbot.com/learn/tutorials/tips-and-tricks-printing-175mm-filament&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this page on the Lulzbot site&lt;/a&gt; which says it is possible to print using 1.75 filament, and I decided to try this out.  The settings used:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Diameter - 1.75 mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Retraction speed 3 mm/s (instead of 10)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;print speed 30 mm/s (instead of 60)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This fails, but it is tantalizingly close.  At first, I could get only a couple layers before the filament stopped extruding.  I tried increasing the temperature by 10 °C (to 215 °C), and this seemed to help, but I would still see it stop extruding after 10-20 layers.  It feels tantalizingly close to working, and I'm wondering what else I might try.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12629" LastEditorUserId="2338" LastEditDate="2020-12-21T15:25:11.323" LastActivityDate="2020-12-21T15:25:11.323" Title="What tips are there for using 1.75 filament with a machine designed for 2.85 mm?" Tags="|filament|lulzbot|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15072" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15049" CreationDate="2020-12-21T05:55:56.820" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Turned out that the BL Touch had packed it in. Replaced with a new BL Touch v3.1 and everything works.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23909" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-12-21T12:28:42.373" LastActivityDate="2020-12-21T12:28:42.373" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15073" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8193" CreationDate="2020-12-21T09:13:49.303" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If it's a printer stock, no modifications, obviously you don't need to change the hot end, Creality did not release a printer without testing it. At least, no such extreme issues can be expected.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check the fan power, wear, and settings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2338" LastActivityDate="2020-12-21T09:13:49.303" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15074" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-12-21T15:32:43.473" Score="1" ViewCount="463" Body="&lt;p&gt;Why do printers, like the Ender 5 Plus, execute the G29 routine prior to every print?  I understand the purpose of this step when MANUALLY leveling the bed since you are presented with the 16 measurements and can adjust the four corners of the bed.  However, from what I can tell, there is no way any of the printers out there (Creality, and others) to actually level the bed.  Since there are only TWO Z-axis motors... one on each SIDE of the bed... then, at most, the only thing the printer COULD do at this stage is to gradually TILT the bed from side to side to adjust the height of the left or right side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, all of that aside, I guess, in theory, it WOULD be possible for the printer to use these 16 measurements to dynamically ADJUST the height DURING THE PRINT based on where the head is SUPPOSED to be versus where the ACTUAL height of that spot actually IS.  However, I cannot find anything that claims this is what happens.  From everything I find, the G29 routine is run and is done.  This means you can only benefit from it during the manual leveling process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Am I missing something?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25863" LastActivityDate="2020-12-21T17:12:43.520" Title="Why use G29 during a print?" Tags="|g-code|bltouch|creality-ender-5|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15075" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15074" CreationDate="2020-12-21T17:12:43.520" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, all of that aside, I guess, in theory, it WOULD be possible for the printer to use these 16 measurements to dynamically ADJUST the height DURING THE PRINT based on where the head is SUPPOSED to be versus where the ACTUAL height of that spot actually IS. However, I cannot find anything that claims this is what happens&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is actually what happens. This behavior is clearly specified in the &lt;a href=&quot;https://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/G029.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;firmware documentation&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mesh leveling measures the height of the bed at several points to generate a 3D mesh representing bed imperfections. With compensation enabled, the nozzle follows the bed contours by dynamically adjusting the Z position (using bilinear interpolation between the measured points). The nozzle follows the contours of the bed more accurately with more mesh points and/or finer segmentation of moves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastActivityDate="2020-12-21T17:12:43.520" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15076" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14846" CreationDate="2020-12-21T19:09:47.327" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;So, there's not really anything like a 3D painting machine/robot like I think you're looking for, but there are printers that do fine detail with actual paint, usually oils, but not on 3D materials.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found a &lt;a href=&quot;https://studioartist.ning.com/forum/topics/paint-printers-do-they-exist&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;thread&lt;/a&gt; that talks about canvas printing about 8 years ago, along with a couple of videos that show &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vj3NKmIKErE&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;current machines&lt;/a&gt; doing &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0Ri7sa90EVk&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;just that&lt;/a&gt;, but that's still not what I think you're looking for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are also &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SK0r7PfMUwQ&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;CNC machines&lt;/a&gt; that print with enamel paints, but these are usually for 2D again, and not very precise, as they are used for lapel pins that have cavities to hole the paint while it dries. I'm sure something like this could be used without the cavities, but you'd have to do a lot of testing to make sure the paint stays put or mixes as you want it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just like the oil printers, these enamel printers are likely very large and costly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Alternatively&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What might work for you is hydrodipping. There's a variety of methods to this, but one company has done a bunch of research on this and can do extremely accurate detail printing to &amp;quot;paint&amp;quot; 3D objects. The below video shows a variety of these hydrodipping techniques, but I've skipped to the most relevant part.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/3y40JWmlU3E?start=240&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's the original video of what I think you're most interested in. It's not 3D printing in the way most of us think, but it's definitely a fantastic outcome.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/YlUhPrAqiY0?start=0&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To explain, if these videos are ever deleted: detailed prints are made of a 3D model to color it exactly the way it needs to be, sometimes using multiple steps and computer positioning to get the object colored/&amp;quot;painted&amp;quot; correctly and seamlessly. One part of the video shows how the software can accurately make straight lines on a human-contoured face mask, while another part shows how a blank, fully 3D cat model can have spots or stripes added in 3 steps with the seams being completely invisible as well as it detailed enough to be mistaken for a real housecat beyond first glance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As it turns out, you can do (some of) this yourself. After doing some research, I've found that you can actually get blank (instead of pre-printed) films and use an off the shelf printer, as long as it meets certain requirements. (I'm not recommending a site, brand, or anything else, this is just the first/only option I can find. If you do more research, I'm sure there's more options out there.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.tsautop.com/blank-hydrographic-film/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.tsautop.com/blank-hydrographic-film/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.tsautop.com/blank-hydrographic-water-transfer-printing-inkjet-printer-6-color-inks/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.tsautop.com/blank-hydrographic-water-transfer-printing-inkjet-printer-6-color-inks/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18804" LastEditorUserId="18804" LastEditDate="2020-12-21T19:19:30.537" LastActivityDate="2020-12-21T19:19:30.537" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15077" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15198" CreationDate="2020-12-21T19:26:53.303" Score="0" ViewCount="1132" Body="&lt;p&gt;Odd question for everyone, hope it has a distinct answer.   I'm often printing bone models derived from CT scans (I work in a hospital) and they often have something on the order of 5 million faces +/-.  Now, I know from experience that I can decimate them down to 10-20 % of the original faces and they still pretty much look the same, so I often do that to help my computer run faster.  I also know that &amp;quot;GrabCad&amp;quot; (the software for my j750) can handle these face counts and the limiting factor is more so the actual physical print resolution.  But it got me curious:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lets say I was using other software.  Lets say more universally available software such as PrusaSlicer or Cura.  Now obviously if I'm printing on a Prusa I probably don't need to worry about capturing all the detail from 5 million faces because I doubt I can print that intricately, but lets take the actual printing out of it (and I guess even before it gets to the G-code stage).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can Cura/PrusaSlicer handle that many faces?  Is there a limit?  Do files get &amp;quot;dumbed down&amp;quot; at all when they come in?  What I'm trying to ask exactly is outside of the G-code and actual printing step, can the software side of things handle something with 10 million faces? 20 million? Is there a limit?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15186" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-12-21T21:11:41.757" LastActivityDate="2023-03-01T14:40:21.150" Title="File size limit in 3D printing software" Tags="|slicing|prusaslicer|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15079" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-12-21T22:28:48.133" Score="5" ViewCount="21409" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently upgraded my Creality Ender 5 with an SKR Mini E3 V2.0 running Marlin 2.0.7.2.  The printer has also been modified with an all-metal hotend and a direct drive conversion kit that uses the extruder stepper motor.   In test prints of the XYZ calibration cube, I have found that the edges of the cube are rounded over.  After some research, it appears this is due to either the acceleration/jerk settings or the junction deviation settings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The issue now comes in that no matter what setting I change, the prints do not change.  Currently in the Marlin firmware, I found that the Classic Jerk is disabled in Configuration.h line ~786.  The default JUNCTION_DEVIATION_MM is 0.013. Since Classic Jerk is disabled, Junction Deviation shows up in the menu under Menu --&amp;gt; Configuration --&amp;gt; Advanced Settings. I printed 4 cubes for 4 different Junction Deviation settings:  0.013, 0.075, 0.130, 0.300.  All cubes have the same characteristic over-corrected corner with no visible changes (Picture below)&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eue3y.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eue3y.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My questions are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Why aren't the prints being affected by changing the Junction Deviation setting via the menu?  The Junction Deviation setting is stored in memory using Menu --&amp;gt; Configuration --&amp;gt; Store Settings and I have confirmed the values remain in memory after cycling the printer.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If Classic Jerk is disabled in Marlin firmware, would an M205 X[Jerk] Y[Jerk] Z[Jerk] command before a print enable Classic Jerk for that print?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What happens if an M205 command is sent that sets XYZ as well as J? (e.g. M205 X[Jerk] Y[Jerk] Z[Jerk] J[Dev]).  Would it ignore Classic Jerk values if Classic Jerk is disabled in firmware?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have read through the following posts already&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11261/setting-junction-deviation-in-firmware-has-no-effect&quot;&gt;Setting Junction Deviation in firmware has no effect&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,739819&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,739819&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://blog.kyneticcnc.com/2018/10/computing-junction-deviation-for-marlin.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://blog.kyneticcnc.com/2018/10/computing-junction-deviation-for-marlin.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/comments/dx8bd/here_is_why_you_should_disable_junction_deviation/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/comments/dx8bd/here_is_why_you_should_disable_junction_deviation/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My next steps:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Re-enable Classic Jerk in Marlin and see if the print behavior changes&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Other?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25864" LastEditorUserId="25864" LastEditDate="2020-12-24T06:25:19.190" LastActivityDate="2021-04-19T15:02:08.893" Title="What can I do to remove the rounded corners using Junction Deviation?" Tags="|marlin|creality-ender-5|skr-mini-e3|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15080" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15083" CreationDate="2020-12-21T23:44:15.693" Score="1" ViewCount="300" Body="&lt;p&gt;How do I improve/increase shell coverage so that it covers the entire inner wall?&#xA;I've experimented with shell settings, but I can't seem to get it right.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm using Creality Slicer 4.2.1 (Cura)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Picture showing the areas in question below:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6ahWw.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6ahWw.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Areas in question highlighted with blue boxes&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25591" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-12-22T07:13:44.010" LastActivityDate="2020-12-22T07:25:25.293" Title="Shell doesn't cover the entire inner wall at some areas" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15081" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15002" CreationDate="2020-12-21T23:56:02.390" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to &lt;a href=&quot;https://sourcegraphics.com/files/8315/4119/7144/MaterialsBooklet-SG.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Formlabs&lt;/a&gt; (at least their FormLabs Form 2 and 3 models), their resin is 405 nm which is a fairly standard resin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's a wide variety of resins our there that are compatible with 405 nm, and many resin makers/resellers advertise what brand, make, and model of printer they are compatible with. I have an AnyCubic Photon v1 and it uses the same 405 nm resins. You might have to do some testing to see what specific brand or style works for you, including changing your settings (if possible in the software you use). FYI, I use a version of CHITUBOX which does allow settings for exposure time, raise height, pause time, and a few others.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Knowing that it uses 405 nm UV also allows you to know what kind of UV lights to get for easy indoor curing, too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd like to say that it's not likely for these resins to damage the printer, but FormLabs seems to use a plastic tray, instead of the aluminum tray I'm used to so I don't know if there would be a chemical reaction, though I'm skeptical if there would be. I'm assuming it's using a similar FEP clear film for the bottom to the AnyCubic, but I can't confirm this, since the FormLabs film seems to be integral to the tray, rather than replaceable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can see why you are looking for other resin options. One place I saw online has a 1 L FormLabs cartridge for \$150, when 500 mL on Amazon is usually between \$20-30. I've seen special resin, such as flexible, as high as \$60 for 500 mL and ABS-like resin for $40, though. Water washable resins seem to be in the \$40-50 range. There's also &amp;quot;natural&amp;quot; or plant based resin for about the same price as regular resin, but might have a different reaction to your tank.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd assume that every brand of resin (except for the rebranded stuff) has their own chemical makeup besides the various types of resin, so you might have to some testing, although I realize that messing up a tank that's \$150 to replace is not exactly something you want to do every day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can tell you that I've used at least 6 different brands of resin and they all react differently to the UV. I mostly have tested clear, and just that produces a variety of results, from how easy/hard it is to cure to what color it turns when it over cures. (I'm still trying to find a clear that fully cures actually clear.) Where I was going with this is that with all these resins I've used, I haven't had any that caused damage to the FEP film. Some have stuck really hard and I had to be really careful pulling it off. However, I've only had 1 film need to be replaced due to clouding, and I have 4 Photons and used all resins I've tested with all my machines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18804" LastActivityDate="2020-12-21T23:56:02.390" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15082" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15079" CreationDate="2020-12-22T01:56:15.090" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Contrary to what's implied by its name, &lt;em&gt;junction deviation&lt;/em&gt; does not produce rounded corners. It merely allows violations of the acceleration profile at corners that would be allowed &lt;em&gt;if the corner were rounded&lt;/em&gt; by the deviation. So you should not expect changes to it to create or eliminate unwanted &amp;quot;rounded corners&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However I don't think what you're seeing are rounded corners. They're &lt;em&gt;bulging&lt;/em&gt; corners, likely produced as a consequence of the toolhead moving slower just before and after the corner in order to honor the acceleration profile. My guess is that your acceleration limits in Marlin 2.0 (500 mm/s² if I recall correctly) are a lot lower than on the original Creality firmware.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can and probably should increase the acceleration limits. The machine should handle 1000 mm/s² easily and up to 3000 mm/s² or even higher with some ringing; I use lower acceleration for the outer walls and let it run wild for inner walls and infill. But the real solution to your bulging corners problem is to enable and calibrate &lt;a href=&quot;https://marlinfw.org/docs/features/lin_advance.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Linear Advance&lt;/a&gt; to get a consistent extrusion rate with varing speed. For my Ender 3, the right constant is around 0.5-0.6 s (yes the units are seconds - it's mm/(mm/s)) for PLA. You can use the &lt;a href=&quot;http://marlinfw.org/tools/lin_advance/k-factor.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;calibration pattern generator&lt;/a&gt; to run the calibration yourself, but I would expect the same results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This will significantly impact your print speed, since Marlin applies E-axis speed, acceleration, and jerk limits to the advance offsets. You can get a lot of it back though by increasing those limits though; the defaults are a whole lot lower than what the machine can handle. 200 mm/s speed limit and 10000-15000 mm/s² acceleration limit (vs 25 and 5000 defaults in Marlin, respectively) are within reason.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2020-12-22T01:56:15.090" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15083" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15080" CreationDate="2020-12-22T07:25:25.293" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should increase the top layer thickness &lt;a href=&quot;https://support.ultimaker.com/hc/en-us/articles/360012512340-Shell-settings&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;according to Ultimaker Cura support&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Top/bottom thickness&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With the top/bottom thickness you can set the thickness of the solidly printed top and bottom layers of the print. A higher value ensures all gaps on the top and bottom layers are closed completely. However, this can also increase the print time and amount of filament used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is advised to always use a multiple of the layer height for the thickness of the top and bottom. This means, for example, that with a layer height of 0.15 mm, it’s better to set the top/bottom thickness to 0.6 mm rather than 0.7 mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2020-12-22T07:25:25.293" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15084" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-12-22T09:56:57.327" Score="1" ViewCount="186" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am planning to upgrade my printer with a second extruder. Since my printer is a Tronxy X8 it's frame is not exactly vibration resistant, so I'd like to keep the print head weight down. At the same time I really don't want a Bowden setup.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I came up with the idea of making a dual extruder driven only by a single stepper with a gear shift setup that switches the stepper between the two extruders.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The idea seems simple, but googleing didn't turn up anything else.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there anything I am missing that would would make such a setup unfeasible?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Did anyone else build something like that?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A clarification, because it came up in an answer:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I imagine is this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One stepper motor is connected to a gear shift system that is either connected to Extruder A or Extruder B, depending on the gear. When shifting it just connects the stepper motor to the other extruder. So it is still similar to a regular direct driven dual extruder system, except that it only uses a single stepper to drive two extruders, each connected to it's own hotend.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13550" LastEditorUserId="13550" LastEditDate="2020-12-22T23:38:23.643" LastActivityDate="2022-01-17T06:49:28.373" Title="Dual extruder with gear shifting" Tags="|extruder|dual-nozzle|multi-material|drive-gear|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15085" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15084" CreationDate="2020-12-22T13:05:53.700" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You'll need a custom firmware.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yur custom firmware will have to react to the &amp;quot;Change extruder&amp;quot; command differently than a normal firmware: instead of just swapping to a different extruder, you'll need to perform some operations to alter the gearing (possibly a solenoid?), and possibly include some kind of &amp;quot;break&amp;quot; to make sure that the filament is not slipping back without the extruder attached. However, there already is a setup that pretty much does this: the Prusa MMU2 uses something similar. The MMU does use a Bowden setup, but you could use Bowden and direct drive in combination, especially if both motors run in sync.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2020-12-23T01:48:45.240" LastActivityDate="2020-12-23T01:48:45.240" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15087" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15106" CreationDate="2020-12-22T19:24:37.510" Score="1" ViewCount="2091" Body="&lt;p&gt;Simple question, I want to move my printer head up when the print finishes instead of to the side.&#xA;Where's the option to do this in Cura?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19381" LastActivityDate="2020-12-25T01:04:07.243" Title="How to move Z up after printing in Cura?" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15088" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-12-22T20:27:24.673" Score="7" ViewCount="136" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am using PLA for 3D printing, and I know it does not degrade well in the wild. I would like to know if there is a chemical process I could use to treat it at home.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Specifically, I am looking for a cleaner alternative than throwing my 3d printing scraps in the garbage, so I wouldn't be generating toxic components when doing this, ideally. I want the plastic to degrade (in a few years, maybe?) when I put it underground while limiting the amount of toxic matter propagating in the soil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have read that hydrolyzing PLA could help to achieve this. I also found threads on dissolving it (&lt;a href=&quot;https://chemistry.stackexchange.com/questions/83476/how-to-dissolve-pla-polylactic-acid&quot;&gt;How to dissolve PLA (polylactic acid)?&lt;/a&gt;). But as I am looking for an eco-friendly process, I think I need to stay away from this as the fumes may be very toxic and polluting&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Posts like this one &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/3598/can-i-really-throw-failed-pla-prints-on-compost&quot;&gt;Can I really throw failed PLA prints on compost?&lt;/a&gt; mention a few requirements for PLA to degrade but don't talk about a way to achieve these conditions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25880" LastEditorUserId="36802" LastEditDate="2023-12-07T18:37:49.427" LastActivityDate="2023-12-07T18:37:49.427" Title="How to treat PLA (Polylactic acid) plastic to make it biodegradable?" Tags="|pla|recycling|biodegradability|composting|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15089" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-12-22T20:59:16.633" Score="1" ViewCount="6234" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I have an AnyCubic i3 Mega to which I added a BLTouch v3.1 and Marlin (1.1.9 due to older, Atmega 8-bit CPU) using instructions and such from &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/MNieddu91/Marlin-AI3M-BLTouch&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this link&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, I've got everything moving in the right direction, I got the auto-bed leveling (bilinear) going (did a 7x7 grid), saved the mesh, tuned the bed and extruder PIDs. Great! Add the G-code into Cura to load the settings and activate the mesh.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Start the printing, goes to home fine, gets up to temp, and then it moves into position to start the print and it suddenly jumps up in Z-height above the bed several millimeters. I pause the printing via OctoPrint, try and use the control tab to adjust the height, not responding. Canceled the print. Used the &lt;code&gt;M114&lt;/code&gt; command to get the position.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here it is after I hit cancel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Recv: X:180.63 Y:171.85 Z:0.00 E:9.71 Count X:14450 Y:13748 Z:2120&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here it is after I use &lt;code&gt;G28&lt;/code&gt; to home&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Recv: X:-5.00 Y:0.00 Z:0.00 E:9.71 Count X:-400 Y:0 Z:0&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is the Start G-code settings from Cura&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;G21 ;metric values&#xA;G90 ;absolute positioning&#xA;M82 ;set extruder to absolute mode&#xA;M107 ;start with the fan off&#xA;G28 X0 Y0 ;move X/Y to min endstops&#xA;G28 Z0 ;move Z to min endstops&#xA;M501 ; bltouch mesh load&#xA;M420 S1 ; bltouch mesh load&#xA;G1 Z15.0 F{speed_travel} ;move the platform down 15 mm&#xA;G92 E0 ;zero the extruded length&#xA;G1 F200 E3 ;extrude 3 mm of feed stock&#xA;G92 E0 ;zero the extruded length again&#xA;G1 F{speed_travel}&#xA;G0 Y20 F{speed_travel}&#xA;M117 Printing...&#xA;G5&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's almost like the Mesh Z-offset is wrong. I do have a probe Z-offset of -4.60, set via &lt;code&gt;M851&lt;/code&gt;. I set this, and then I did &lt;code&gt;G29&lt;/code&gt; to re-do the ABL.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With me being new to ABL and Marlin, what did I forget? Maybe I did something wrong?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25879" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-09-19T07:41:37.330" LastActivityDate="2021-09-19T07:42:31.963" Title="After installing BLTouch and Marlin, my nozzle is too high when trying to print" Tags="|marlin|bed-leveling|bltouch|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15092" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-12-23T04:34:55.870" Score="1" ViewCount="452" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am a newbie to the 3D printing world. Every night spending hours researching and troubleshooting. Recently though I am having a weird problem for which I can not figure out a solution. While printing it randomly skips a line or two (see attached photo). I have an Ender 3 Pro that is about a month old. I have installed a glass bed on it and I am using silk white pla. I am printing with the following settings:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;210 °C Nozzle temperature,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bed at 60 °C,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fan speed at 70 %,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Print speed at 45 mm/s,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;layer height 0.2 mm with stock nozzle,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;10 % cubic infill,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;and plate adhesion type is skirt.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any help/advise would be appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qzYJm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qzYJm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25886" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-12-23T07:26:25.667" LastActivityDate="2020-12-23T07:26:25.667" Title="Ender 3 Pro - Randomly skip lines" Tags="|print-quality|creality-ender-3|extrusion|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15093" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15089" CreationDate="2020-12-23T05:19:04.900" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In some ways, this reminds me of the pain I went through recently. I am also fairly new to 3D printing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After you have completed the bed levelling using &lt;code&gt;G29&lt;/code&gt; you should have a list of mesh coordinates showing in the interface with OctoPrint. (I am using Pronterface, so am not all that familiar with OctoPrint). You need to save the mesh coordinates to the control board. To do this enter &lt;code&gt;M500&lt;/code&gt; and then &lt;code&gt;M503&lt;/code&gt; to check that the data has saved. If you enter &lt;code&gt;G28&lt;/code&gt; (don't use the digit after the axis!) after using &lt;code&gt;G29&lt;/code&gt;, but without saving (&lt;code&gt;M500&lt;/code&gt;) the coordinates will be discarded.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you have set your Z-offset, you also need to save that too (&lt;code&gt;M500&lt;/code&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unless you bed is warped, a 7 x 7 grid (mesh) is overkill. If you are printing on glass or a mirror, a 3 x 3 grid should be enough. I have a 5 x 5 due to may warped bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23909" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-09-19T07:42:31.963" LastActivityDate="2021-09-19T07:42:31.963" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15094" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-12-23T13:31:01.073" Score="1" ViewCount="46" Body="&lt;p&gt;Previous questions on the topic of setting acceleration are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11407/how-to-theoretically-calculate-the-maximum-acceleration&quot;&gt;How to theoretically calculate the maximum acceleration?&lt;/a&gt; (theoretical calculation)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/212/how-do-i-determine-the-acceleration-value-for-my-printer&quot;&gt;How do I determine the acceleration value for my printer?&lt;/a&gt; (how to find the maximum value, in general)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The topic of the test model to use to stress the printer has not been touched yet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, when I want to test experimentally a printer according to the link above to have it skip steps due to excessive acceleration, what features does a model need to have for this to work?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To the extent it may matter, in my case I have a CoreXY printer with Bowden setup, so the stresses on X and Y direction are relatively comparable, the difference is only the weight of the X rods and holder (150 g max).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The firmware I use provides this model to test ringing:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tjcn1.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tjcn1.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would that be suitable to stress-test the skipping of steps or should I consider making my own, and if, what features should it have?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2338" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2020-12-23T15:33:39.383" LastActivityDate="2020-12-23T15:33:39.383" Title="What specifics do models need to have to estimate the maximum acceleration my printer can withstand?" Tags="|calibration|acceleration|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15095" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15196" CreationDate="2020-12-23T17:06:50.523" Score="1" ViewCount="752" Body="&lt;p&gt;High temperature PTFE tape is rated up to 550°F, which is 288°C.  I'm wondering if it would be useful for components on the hot end to prevent oozing.  Has anyone tried it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15075" LastEditorUserId="15075" LastEditDate="2020-12-24T02:17:15.583" LastActivityDate="2021-01-06T03:32:24.737" Title="What happens if you use high temperature PTFE tape with the heater block?" Tags="|hotend|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15096" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10161" CreationDate="2020-12-23T17:27:55.810" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;High temperature rated PTFE tape is rated for up to 288°C (550°F).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15075" LastActivityDate="2020-12-23T17:27:55.810" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15097" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15098" CreationDate="2020-12-23T21:09:16.677" Score="1" ViewCount="324" Body="&lt;p&gt;I need a Prusa MK3S smooth bed and I am not able to get it unless I wait for a few month.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I can have a &lt;code&gt;Heated Bed Cover for Ender 3/Ender 3 pro/Ender 5 3D Printer 235X235MM&lt;/code&gt; shipped to my door tomorrow moring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I use the above Creality bed on MK3S untill I get an original MK3S in a few month?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25720" LastActivityDate="2020-12-23T22:37:14.203" Title="Can I use Creality bed on Prusa MK3S?" Tags="|prusa-i3|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15098" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15097" CreationDate="2020-12-23T22:37:14.203" Score="1" Body="&lt;h1&gt;Heaters won't match.&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The ender3 is a 24 V machine. The Prusa 3 is a 12 V machine. Heater cartridges and Heatbeds are therefore not interchangeable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Build surfaces can be adapted.&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Ender3 has a build surface that is a little bigger than the Prusa3, and thus you can, in a pinch, use an ender3 sized build surface and install it, possibly cut down, to fit onto the Prusa.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastActivityDate="2020-12-23T22:37:14.203" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15099" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-12-24T01:00:37.680" Score="0" ViewCount="187" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an Ender 3 V2 and a 3DTouch Makerbase sensor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a problem with the bed leveling test.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first test points are good, after that the nozzle try to test on the X axis outside the bed as can be seen &lt;a href=&quot;https://files.fm/u/qjde6eg7z&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;in this video&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope you can help me&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25902" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-12-24T07:57:12.990" LastActivityDate="2020-12-24T07:57:12.990" Title="3DTouch Probing Off the Bed X-axis" Tags="|creality-ender-3|3dtouch|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15101" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15102" CreationDate="2020-12-24T13:18:42.023" Score="1" ViewCount="320" Body="&lt;p&gt;Thinking this over, the best place to seal the hotend is between the throat tube and nozzle.  What are the advantages/disadvantages of an integrated nozzle and throat to make this seal?  Does a throat with a Teflon tube improve this seal?   Is it reasonable to cut a gasket out of 3mm ID 5mm OD Teflon tubing to make the seal for M6 thread parts?&#xA;I intend these questions to all address the main question to prevent a leaky hot end.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WK1Ac.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WK1Ac.png&quot; alt=&quot;Throat Tube&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/c3jiO.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/c3jiO.png&quot; alt=&quot;nozzle&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kOAYX.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kOAYX.png&quot; alt=&quot;Integrated throat a nozzle&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/h3FpJ.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/h3FpJ.png&quot; alt=&quot;Throat with Teflon tube&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15075" LastEditorUserId="15075" LastEditDate="2020-12-24T13:27:35.907" LastActivityDate="2020-12-24T13:38:41.777" Title="What technics are you using to seal between the throat tube and nozzle?" Tags="|troubleshooting|hotend|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15102" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15101" CreationDate="2020-12-24T13:38:41.777" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;A seal between the heat break and nozzle should be achieved by tightening them while the hotend is hot. After assembling the (cold) hotend, heat it up to somewhat above the highest temperature you will print at and then tighten the nozzle some more. When it cools down again, you will have a very tight seal. If the nozzle still leaks after this tightening then it is defective.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using teflon is possible but will limit the maximum temperature you can use your hotend at safely and you won't be able to print some higher temperature materials.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastActivityDate="2020-12-24T13:38:41.777" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15104" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15203" CreationDate="2020-12-24T14:50:40.900" Score="2" ViewCount="838" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm getting weak prints on Ender 3 Pro with Cura after Cura upgrade.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Prints on my Ender 3 Pro have been good until I was forced to update Cura due to having to update the OS on my laptop.  Now my prints are weak even after using Infill 50 % from 20 %.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Upgraded to Cura 4.8.0.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I noticed that it seems my print settings were saved from the older non-working Cura version.  I went ahead and printed an XYZ Cube with the same settings from my older Cura version where prints were printing fine/acceptable.  It fell apart as I tried to lift it off the build plate so I printed a second XYZ Cube with 50 % infill from previous 20 % pictured below:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2hnqO.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2hnqO.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The above print is noticeably weak, with layers not bonding or maybe something else.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Below is an image of when an XYZ Cube printed with my older Cura version.  It is not perfect but it is much stronger without visible separation and actually noticeably heavier than the grey XYZ Cube printed with Cura 4.8.0 :&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Z0Mon.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Z0Mon.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The green and the grey 1.75 mm PLA I use and shown in the photos are different brands but both printed very much the same with the older Cura version.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm thinking this is an issue with the new Cura 4.8.0 that I'm using as nothing about my printing has changed besides the new Cura version assuming that my original print settings were saved which it looks to me that they were.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has anyone had a similar issue or is there a known fix for this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Posting settings pics below:&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wkGz5.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wkGz5.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lnXOD.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lnXOD.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;12/28/20 :&#xA;Went to &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.chepclub.com/cura-profiles.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.chepclub.com/cura-profiles.html&lt;/a&gt; and noted that they mention to use the Cura 4.8.0 Built-In profiles.  Below are two pics of test print while using Cura 4.8.0's Built-In Standard Profile :&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/e2Dd0.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/e2Dd0.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Cura 4.8.0 Standard Profile&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/R0i8m.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/R0i8m.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Cura 4.8.0 Standard Profile&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;12/29/20 :&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Screenshot showing Nozzle Diameter (still using the 0.4 mm stock nozzle) &amp;amp; Flow @ 100 %.  Please let me know if these are not the correct settings you asked me to look in :&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cq4yH.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cq4yH.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25913" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-12-30T07:51:52.850" LastActivityDate="2021-01-04T19:47:29.400" Title="Ender 3 Pro Weak Prints after Cura upgrade" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|creality-ender-3|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15105" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15107" CreationDate="2020-12-24T21:21:37.837" Score="1" ViewCount="1294" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an Ender 3 Pro and I have been able to get it to work quite well, I installed a 0.8 mm nozzle to try the Vase mode in Cura. I re-leveled the bed and when I tried to print, I got some very strange behavior.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When it starts the &amp;quot;purge line&amp;quot; along the side of the bed, the Z-axis is too high and instead of going down the left side and back up, it will go down the left side and then from left to right along the back edge and then stop and then just extrude filament. If I look at the beginning portion of the G-code it doesn't look any different than the G-Code for the other models I have printed except for in the initialization script it set the Layer height and Min Z to 0.32 instead of 0.2 and the code for drawing the first 2 purge lines is identical. I tried printing an older file that worked correctly and I got the same results where it went along the left side then along the back side and stopped and just extruded filament.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems like something in the printer went wonky? What would cause this and what is the fix? A reset of some sort? And how is that accomplished?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25915" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-12-24T21:55:16.450" LastActivityDate="2020-12-25T20:40:47.820" Title="Ender 3 Pro not interpreting G-code correctly?" Tags="|creality-ender-3|g-code|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15106" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15087" CreationDate="2020-12-25T01:04:07.243" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Go towards the right top corner. Click on the printer name. From the drop down, select, &amp;quot;Manage printers&amp;quot;. You will get a dialogue box in the middle of your screen. Your current printer's name will be shown in italics. On the right side of the dialogue box, click on, &amp;quot;Machine settings&amp;quot;. This will open another dialogue box. In the lower left, you will see a text box with the heading, &amp;quot;End G-Code&amp;quot; scroll down to where you see the line, &amp;quot;&lt;code&gt;G1 X0 Y0&lt;/code&gt;&amp;quot;. This is the line that moves your print head to the lower left corner. &lt;code&gt;G1&lt;/code&gt; is the command for a linear move. &lt;code&gt;X0&lt;/code&gt; and &lt;code&gt;Y0&lt;/code&gt; are move instructions to move the the 0 coordinate for the two axes. Change this line to &lt;code&gt;G1 Znn&lt;/code&gt; where &amp;quot;nn&amp;quot; is the number of the coordinate you wish to move to. Close this dialogue, close the previous dialogue and all newly sliced file will now use this code.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If like to keep track of any changes you make, you can put a semi-colon at the beginning of the line. This turns the line into a comment and will not be actioned. Then press enter and on a new line, put the line, &lt;code&gt;G1 znn&lt;/code&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23909" LastActivityDate="2020-12-25T01:04:07.243" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15107" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15105" CreationDate="2020-12-25T20:40:47.820" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It ended up being something with the printer, I powered it down, let it set a few minutes and then powered it up and it printed correctly. Is there a way to &amp;quot;reset&amp;quot; it without the power cycle, and is this something common? Thanks for the response!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25915" LastActivityDate="2020-12-25T20:40:47.820" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15108" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-12-26T03:07:38.037" Score="2" ViewCount="798" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an Ender 3 that suddenly starting having an issue. The X-axis belt randomly stops moving when extruding the first layer. It doesn't always stop at the same exact spot, but once it stops, the only movements that are made are back and forth Y-axis movements.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am able to freely push the carriage back and forth and there does not seem to be any binding. The printer has no issue performing auto home. I've checked all cables multiple times, on the external side and the internal side. The motor does not seem to be very hot if even warm at all. I've even tried swapping SD cards with a known working G-code/printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only thing I haven't tried is swapping out the motor which I can't at the moment all my printers are busy, however, all the threads I've read mention the motor failure is the least likely answer. I'm not sure what would have caused this. All I've recently done is install a new cartridge and thermistor, and everything was working totally fine until I re-leveled my bed a few hours ago, and when I started a new print after leveling this started happening, and was giving me no issues prior. I can't find any similar threads, so I feel pretty hopeless right now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25927" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-09-24T17:22:06.757" LastActivityDate="2021-09-24T19:09:25.523" Title="Ender 3 X Axis stops moving mid print at random times, only makes Y movements after" Tags="|creality-ender-3|x-axis|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15109" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-12-26T04:36:46.757" Score="0" ViewCount="2362" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently bought an Ender 3 Pro, and while I'm super happy with it, there's one issue I'm having with it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I set &amp;quot;Pause at height&amp;quot; to a specific layer in Cura, the print will pause at that height, but as soon as it pauses the nozzle heats right back up and the print continues. It's like it pauses for only 30 seconds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's the G-code for the pause command generated by Cura:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;;MESH:NONMESH  &#xA;G0 F300 X115.454 Y119.213 Z1.96  &#xA;G0 F9000 X117.5 Y120.392  &#xA;;TIME_ELAPSED:283.376298  &#xA;;TYPE:CUSTOM  &#xA;;added code by post processing  &#xA;;script: PauseAtHeight.py  &#xA;;current layer: 6  &#xA;M83 ; switch to relative E values for any needed retraction  &#xA;G1 F1500 E-10  &#xA;G1 F300 Z2.96 ; move up a millimeter to get out of the way  &#xA;G1 F9000 X190 Y190  &#xA;G1 F300 Z15 ; too close to bed--move to at least 15mm  &#xA;M104 S0 ; standby temperature  &#xA;M117 CHANGE  &#xA;M0 ; Do the actual pause  &#xA;M109 S200 ; resume temperature  &#xA;G1 F1500 E10  &#xA;G1 F1500 E-10  &#xA;G1 F300 Z2.96  &#xA;G1 F9000 X116.604 Y120.251  &#xA;G1 F300 Z1.96 ; move back down to resume height  &#xA;G1 F1500 E10  &#xA;G1 F1200 ; restore extrusion feedrate  &#xA;M82 ; switch back to absolute E values  &#xA;G92 E256.16251  &#xA;;LAYER:6  &#xA;;TYPE:WALL-INNER  &#xA;;MESH:Super Curcan.stl&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyone ever run into this issue?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25928" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-12-26T07:03:34.600" LastActivityDate="2021-08-05T17:27:59.973" Title="Ender 3 Pro - &quot;Pause at Height&quot; automatically resumes after a few seconds" Tags="|creality-ender-3|g-code|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15111" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15767" CreationDate="2020-12-26T12:34:09.387" Score="2" ViewCount="211" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are there quantitative means of measuring nozzle wear? What steps do you perform to measure this? If so?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have some digital calipers, but I don't have much confidence in the measurements taken, as it's almost impossible to ensure the nozzle aperture is entirely free of filament residue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The context here is I've recently been trying out some carbon-fiber-infused PLA filament, but I would like to keep an eye on how much it wears the nozzle and get an idea of nozzle wear rates. I can then work out if the mechanical and aesthetic qualities of the CF filament are worthwhile.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7405" LastEditorUserId="36802" LastEditDate="2023-12-25T17:51:07.593" LastActivityDate="2023-12-25T17:51:07.593" Title="Are there quantitative means of measuring nozzle wear?" Tags="|nozzle|fdm|maintenance|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15114" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10680" CreationDate="2020-12-26T22:59:38.133" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was experiencing exactly the same problem (CR-10S, Cura 4.5, all mechanical issues fixed, new nozzle, new fans, good quality PLA), I would like to add one observation that might contribute to a solution (yes, I know this thread is old but many people are still experiencing this issue (a lot actually) any everybody seems to be stuck in the &amp;quot;you need to level your bed&amp;quot; loop) but this discussion here is going beyond this and is by far the most constructive I have seen so far:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ok, here goes: when measuring my hotend with a thermocouple probe (Uni-T UT320D) right behind the nozzle (after removing the Bowden tube), I can observe a significant deviation between the displayed temp (= the same one I entered in Cura) and the temperature the filament gets to see. This is around 20 °C in difference @ 200 °C, meaning a setting of 205 °C is actually closer to 185 °C. For the bed the offset is only 1-2 °C. After swapping the glass bead NTC just for fun (Ohms were OK) ...nothing changed. Others have observed this offset in CR10 machines as well (original firmware).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Combined with the fact that we CAN produce nice prints at insanely slow speeds (10 - 20 mm/s), this somehow gives me the feeling that some bug (somewhere) has reduced the heating capacity of the hotend in the affected machines / set-ups... Now this could be a parasitic loss due to a bad connection somewhere but this would quickly lead to other problems (fire) as well (which it didn't - at least in my case).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25739" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-12-27T08:39:20.463" LastActivityDate="2020-12-27T08:39:20.463" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15115" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-12-27T00:28:03.417" Score="0" ViewCount="1195" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Ender 3 Pro V1. I installed the Bigtreetech SKR mini E3 V1.2 + TFT35 touchscreen + Antclabs BLTouch + a pre compiled bin from &lt;a href=&quot;https://marlin.crc.id.au/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; .&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;the board works&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;the screen works&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;the BLTouch is erratic&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A) it tries to exceed the X limits and makes the loud clicking sound while performing the bed leveling. it even tries to move past the X end stop switch.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;B) when printing, it moves to the far right rear corner and extrudes off of the bed.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;C) OctoPrint can no longer connect with the printer.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think this is just a problem with how the bed size is setup and it identifying the limits of the print. I just can't figure out how to configure and compile a working bin file.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25944" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-04-23T10:49:22.287" LastActivityDate="2021-04-23T10:49:22.287" Title="Ender 3 Pro + SKR mini E3 1.2 + BLtouch doesn't work with downloaded bin file" Tags="|creality-ender-3|bltouch|bigtreetech|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15116" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15135" CreationDate="2020-12-27T00:35:40.840" Score="2" ViewCount="335" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an Anycubic Kossel with Trigorilla Motherboard, Mega2560+RAMPS1.4.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm using &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3661097&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Marlin 2_0_bugfix&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My Y connector is not working anymore so I would like to use E1 connector as Y.&#xA;I found a very good solution &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/3925/how-to-switch-motor-outputs-and-use-e1-as-x-in-marlin-firmware&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; but for me for some reason it's not working.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did that modification what suggested in the pins_RAMPS.h file (for Y of course instead of X), then I compiled it with Arduino 1.8.13 and uploaded to my printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After that I flashed firmware then Y (which I plugged to E1) is not moving anywhere. I have never plugged anything to E1 before, so I think the connector port must be good and working.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I am missing, what's my mistake?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I did:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#define Y_STEP_PIN         36&#xA;#define Y_DIR_PIN          34&#xA;#define Y_ENABLE_PIN       30&#xA;#ifndef Y_CS_PIN&#xA;  #define Y_CS_PIN         44&#xA;#endif&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;#define E1_STEP_PIN        60&#xA;#define E1_DIR_PIN         61&#xA;#define E1_ENABLE_PIN      56&#xA;#ifndef E1_CS_PIN&#xA;  #define E1_CS_PIN        49&#xA;#endif&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25946" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-12-27T21:30:15.680" LastActivityDate="2020-12-28T23:14:05.700" Title="Marlin: Switch Y to E1" Tags="|marlin|stepper-driver|arduino-mega-2650|kossel|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15117" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15115" CreationDate="2020-12-27T00:38:36.573" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A) it tries to exceed the X limits and makes the loud clicking sound while performing the bed leveling. it even tries to move past the X end stop switch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This tells me that the firmware you use is faulty - it has a faulty bed-size or home.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;B)when printing, it moves to the far right rear corner and extrudes off of the bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This can be intended in the G-code, or bad homing, again, firmware home position.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;C) octoprint can no longer connect with the printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This, &lt;strong&gt;again&lt;/strong&gt; is a thing that happens if the firmware is not configured properly or flashed correctly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might have accidentally chosen the wrong firmware distribution - your config points to the &lt;a href=&quot;https://marlin.crc.id.au/firmware/Ender%203%20-%20SKR%20Mini%20E3%20v1.2%20-%20BLTouch/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Ender 3 - SKR Mini E3 v1.2 - BLTouch&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;strong&gt;not&lt;/strong&gt; the Ender 3 v1.5 or v2 (slightly different hardware), and possibly &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6399/recalibrating-home-position&quot;&gt;adjust the proper homing position.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastActivityDate="2020-12-27T00:38:36.573" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15118" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15119" CreationDate="2020-12-27T02:36:01.657" Score="1" ViewCount="116" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am interested in buying a larger printer, either a Sovol SV01 or a Sunlu S8 (or something else similar).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I am wondering is, can the control boards and LCD displays be changed to better units later on?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How much are parts interchangeable?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can the frame, steppers, extruder, base-heater and power supply be run with any control board which has enough outputs? How does this work?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm particularly interested in adding silent stepper drivers and BLTouch later on, neither of these units are very popular so not a lot of after market parts are out which list compatibility.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25950" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-12-27T08:42:12.777" LastActivityDate="2020-12-27T09:52:14.323" Title="Are control boards switchable?" Tags="|extruder|stepper-driver|hardware|full-graphic-smart-controller|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15119" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15118" CreationDate="2020-12-27T09:52:14.323" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes. Stepper motors, heaters, temperature sensors, fans, etc... are all standard parts. Pretty much any control board can be used with the hardware from pretty much every printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some more expensive printers might use more exotic parts (especially temperature sensors), but on the budget printers you're looking at I would be very surprised to find anything non-standard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastActivityDate="2020-12-27T09:52:14.323" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15120" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15121" CreationDate="2020-12-27T12:39:38.463" Score="0" ViewCount="324" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm pretty new to 3D printing, so I'm looking for some tips with following problem I have.&#xA;I'm trying to print following model &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4671256&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4671256&lt;/a&gt; on my Ender 3 v2.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But as soon as the print reaches the body and the first layer parts are attached, the print comes loose from the bed and the print will be dragged by the nozzle.&#xA;If you look at the picture you can see the bending of the front paws of the sculpture. So they don't stay sticked onto the bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have changed the model to be 80 % in size, but also upped the bed temperature from 50 to 75 °C.&#xA;Running at 50 °C was even worse...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My printed 20x20x20 mm test cube was flawless by the way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QcXD1.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QcXD1.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25942" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-12-27T14:08:09.890" LastActivityDate="2020-12-27T15:46:35.890" Title="Layer bending with first layer not sticking" Tags="|creality-ender-3|adhesion|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15121" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15120" CreationDate="2020-12-27T15:46:35.890" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Try a Brim (the model is rather tricky on FDM), which can help with bad adhesion.&#xA;Your first laser appears coarse and not &amp;quot;smooched&amp;quot; as it should. This hints that you leveled either high, or you hit the portal off-angle. If it is just high leveling, a tiny turn &amp;quot;up&amp;quot; can help a lot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The model has some rather flat overhangs, like the mouth, chin, under the tails and lower body. I suggest printing that with support turned on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For PLA Filament, I use 200°C nozzle with 60°C bed, so unless you go far beyond that, your print should work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Last words: that the model you chose was made with resin printing in mind, so you will use some details.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastActivityDate="2020-12-27T15:46:35.890" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15122" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-12-27T16:00:35.743" Score="0" ViewCount="450" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just got a Eryone Thinker SE and went through a lot of trouble to get it even working.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My first major problem was it would keep trying to ignore the Z endstop switch and go lower than it should be. I managed to fix it by doing a firmware update to it, and after a lot of trouble with getting the right temperature I started printing a test cube. I left it to print checking up on it every 30 minutes or so and near the finishing of the cube I came back to a screen saying something like &amp;quot;power failure, resume print&amp;quot;, so of course I choose resume print but what it ended up doing was moving down, piercing the block on the print bed and then dragging it with it as it decided to home itself. So I immediately hit the reset button do it didn't try to push the block into the print bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But now when I auto home the printer, it jabs the print nozzle into the print bed, and it ignores the Z-axis endstop switch causing the right side of the gantry to go lower (due to there being no stopper on the right). Auto leveling just makes the gantry go down even further on the right still ignoring the endstop switch. The other thing is when trying to manually move the Z-axis, instead of going up (even though the LCD shows a positive number) it tries to go down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Steps I attempted to do to fix it:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I attempted to do another firmware update, but to no avail this time.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I checked all the connections and re-seated them.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Scout the internet hoping someone with the same printer or board has had the same problem, to no avail again.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I should note when homing the printer, the normal action for it is to home X then Y, then Z. When homing Z however, NORMALLY, it will hit the switch move up and baby step itself to hit the switch and stop immediately when it touches it. But now, it will hit the switch, then just go down even more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://drive.google.com/file/d/1pUMDvTWgPJg7-GFnpeCSN0dL-ip6Jugt/view?usp=sharing&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Video of what is happening here (Google Drive)&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.amazon.ca/Eryone-2560-bit-Mainboard-Thinker/dp/B083R91NLN&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;The control board on the printer is a Eryone 2560&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25959" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-05-26T22:02:07.347" LastActivityDate="2021-05-26T22:02:07.347" Title="Eryone Thinker SE ignoring endstop, gantry only moves down" Tags="|bed-leveling|firmware|stepper-driver|stepper|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15123" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15122" CreationDate="2020-12-27T16:57:02.663" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You do a critical error in your order of operations: you home. Then you home again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, the firmware does &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; check if the switch is already depressed, it waits for a signal to cut out. But the signal is already not there. And as you will notice, it moves into X+ and Y+ before rehoming into 0, but does not do so in Z.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To prevent that behavior, you need to move the printer up a little till the switch no longer is engaged, then it will properly home the position.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The proper fix would be to alter the home-Z behavior to include a movement upwards by 2 mm before starting the actual homing. This does require a knowledge of Marlin though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2020-12-27T17:25:30.293" LastActivityDate="2020-12-27T17:25:30.293" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15124" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15125" CreationDate="2020-12-27T17:16:29.543" Score="0" ViewCount="37" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am currently making an ironman helmet but running into a couple problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whenever I start my print it starts off fine, but then after it builds the bottom support and starts on the build itself things get really wonky. It seems that the build gradually builds away from the support and starts to float in the air.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also see an issue where the model starts to curve and the filament isn't sticking to the support instead it makes a straight line through the curve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lastly the support column on the bottom left starts to clump up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am using an Ender 3 printer and Cura.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/88oIN.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/88oIN.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25960" LastActivityDate="2020-12-27T19:44:05.120" Title="Issues with my print" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|creality-ender-3|print-failure|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15125" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15124" CreationDate="2020-12-27T19:44:05.120" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You are experiencing layer shifting, please check the tension of the X-axis belt, driver current.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;A more elaborated answer is found &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/500&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2020-12-27T19:44:05.120" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15126" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13270" CreationDate="2020-12-27T21:51:38.363" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just recently got my first 3D printer (Ender 3 v2) and am also using the Eryone PLA filament. After the first week, I was having bed adhesion problems as well. I think part of the problem is the bedsprings become loose rather quickly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is my current solution, leveling the bed with a receipt paper (thinner than regular 20lb bond paper) and using blue painter's tape on the stock glass bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since using this setup, I have not had any major issues with my prints. I have ordered new bedsprings (&lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B07FY47BX7&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Ogrimmar Yellow Springs&lt;/a&gt;) and hope these will be a more lasting solution to the loose bedsprings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23193" LastActivityDate="2020-12-27T21:51:38.363" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15127" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15128" CreationDate="2020-12-28T02:12:16.623" Score="2" ViewCount="102" Body="&lt;p&gt;I haven't ran into the issue yet, but I am sort of expecting it to here soon towards the end of my print. Actually, I am not even sure if it should be something that I should be worried about or not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically I have some overhang on a helmet piece (it's a vent piece) and I see that there is a 90 % degree overhang. It doesn't look too big but just curious if this should be something that I should be worried about. I forgot to add support in the vent, it's my own fault and I'm definitely going to fix this in my next print for sure, but do you all think it will fail if I keep the current print going?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/r3LV5.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Screenshot showing unsupported overhanging vent&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/r3LV5.png&quot; alt=&quot;Screenshot showing unsupported overhanging vent&quot; title=&quot;Screenshot showing unsupported overhanging vent&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I use Cura, Meshmaker, and I have an Ender 3 printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm just getting started with 3D printing so I wasn't sure if I should be concerned or not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25960" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2021-09-22T07:59:28.763" LastActivityDate="2021-09-22T07:59:28.763" Title="Overhang Question" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|creality-ender-3|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15128" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15127" CreationDate="2020-12-28T08:21:50.803" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;That depends on various parameters if an overhang will work or not, material, hotend temperature, speed, cooling, size of the overhang, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2020-12-28T08:21:50.803" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15129" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12056" CreationDate="2020-12-28T08:30:57.200" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had the same problem with bottom 8-10 layers being squashed. Tried all the possible settings and nothing helped.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Eventually found that the bottom part of the Z-axis guide rails was narrower then the top and it was not rolling properly down the bottom.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Found out by taking off the Z-axis rod and moved extruder up and down and I felt it was moving a lot worse/getting almost stuck down the bottom. Also tried it by disabling steppers and rolled the Z-axis motor by finger, almost no effort at the top to roll it down, but took a lot more effort down the bottom 5 cm or so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I loosened the screws and pulled the bottom part wider and problem solved... Probably a rookie mistake as it is my first printer....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope it helps someone saving days of experimenting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25973" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2020-12-28T09:26:25.017" LastActivityDate="2020-12-28T09:26:25.017" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15130" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-12-28T12:17:52.750" Score="4" ViewCount="5954" Body="&lt;p&gt;In OpenSCAD, I am trying to make a linear_extrude on a shape imported from an svg. The svg file contains multiple path. I would like to scale each path separately. I have tried the following code, but the whole import is considered a single shape resulting in the image below.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;linear_extrude(height = 5, center = true, scale=1.2)&#xA;    import(file = &amp;quot;xxx.svg&amp;quot;, center = true, dpi = 96);&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cg1Rq.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cg1Rq.png&quot; alt=&quot;result&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I have each of the letters to have 'its own pyramid' ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know I could create one SVG per letter. But for simplicity sake I would like to have only one SVG file, as I want to create much more complex motives in the future. My final goal is to create stamps from SVG drawings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit:&#xA;Alternative tried after Mick's comment (same result):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;module pyramidChildren(height){&#xA;    for ( i= [0:1:$children-1])  &#xA;      linear_extrude(height = height, scale=1.5)&#xA;        children(i);&#xA; }&#xA; &#xA; pyramidChildren(5)&#xA;    import(file = &amp;quot;xxx.svg&amp;quot;, center = true, dpi = 96);&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have tried to use the basic svg (multiple paths) and also to group each path (with only itself) without changes in the result.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25976" LastEditorUserId="25976" LastEditDate="2020-12-29T10:36:38.057" LastActivityDate="2022-12-23T16:51:12.570" Title="OpenSCAD linear_extrude from multiple path svg import" Tags="|openscad|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15131" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-12-28T19:27:52.183" Score="3" ViewCount="26707" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am very new in the 3D printing scene.&#xA;After a lot of searching for my specific problem (and didn't find any answers, of course) I decided to reach out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I bought a Creality Ender 3 Pro in November and after a few days of lovely prints&#xA;I decided to upgrade the printer with a glass bed and  &amp;quot;Aluminum Dual Gear Pulley Dual Drive Extruder Kit&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Problem, as you might expected already, is with the installation of the dual gear extruder. I have watched a dozen of YouTube videos, and all of them have something I don't – a screw in the stock gold gear on the extruder motor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I install the Aluminum Dual Gear Pulley Dual Drive Extruder Kit if I take the gear out? Should I try remove it with force?&#xA;Please if someone has come across the same situation, that there isn’t a screw In the stock gear on the extruder motor and mange to take it out, please tell me.&#xA;I'm adding a picture so you understand what I mean.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7F5YQ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;&quot; /&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MIBeb.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25986" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-12-28T22:54:26.740" LastActivityDate="2022-03-29T15:41:40.320" Title="Problems with stock gear with no screw on Ender 3 pro" Tags="|creality-ender-3|" AnswerCount="10" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15132" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15131" CreationDate="2020-12-28T21:35:23.460" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you cant see any grub-screw on the extruder gear, it's likely that it has been permanently press-fit onto the motor shaft. It is possible to remove the gear if you have something like a Dremel to cut it off, however, do note that it would be a permanent modification, and that your warranty (if you had any) would be void. If you do go this route, be careful not to Dremel into the shaft of the motor, as this would likely cause the new gear to not fit properly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this is a new printer, I would recommend assembling it with the stock extruder assembly first, and ordering a secondary extruder motor without the gear press-fit onto its shaft. Then you could swap them out and not need to worry about damaging the existing motor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6996" LastActivityDate="2020-12-28T21:35:23.460" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15133" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15127" CreationDate="2020-12-28T22:29:36.903" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Many parameters will influence success. That overhang, as flat as it is and unsupported, will need to have support-structures enabled to become printable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastActivityDate="2020-12-28T22:29:36.903" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15134" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15131" CreationDate="2020-12-28T23:07:53.287" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This brass extruder gear is either press fitted (see &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/15132&quot;&gt;other answer&lt;/a&gt;) or hot crimped onto the shaft. Brass has about twice the thermal expansion rate as stainless steel, so you could heat the gear while cooling the shaft (e.g. stepper upside down with the shaft in water, heating the gear with a small torch lighter, a makeshift aluminium foil shield could be used to protect the stepper base) to get the gear off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Grinding it off would be easier (or even more easy is to buy a new stepper motor) as when you get the gear off, the shaft is round, so you need to grind a flat spot on the shaft anyway to make sure the dual extruder gear can be screwed on tightly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2020-12-28T23:07:53.287" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15135" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15116" CreationDate="2020-12-28T23:14:05.700" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you followed &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/3925/how-to-switch-motor-outputs-and-use-e1-as-x-in-marlin-firmware&quot;&gt;the answer to switch steppers in firmware&lt;/a&gt; to the letter, but changing X for Y, this should work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've looked into the pins files for you and concluded that your proposed changes should work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This leaves you with the following questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is the stepper driver for E1 working?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is there a stepper driver installed?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is the cable working/not damaged?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Swap drivers and cables to troubleshoot the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2020-12-28T23:14:05.700" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15136" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-12-29T03:21:49.187" Score="3" ViewCount="332" Body="&lt;p&gt;I assume SLA printing only works on Earth and upright.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But would fused-filament printer (e.g. Prusa Mk3) work in zero gravity? What about upside down or sideways? If not, could it be modified to work in other orientations? Have there been any demonstrations of it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20999" LastActivityDate="2021-06-03T16:57:05.483" Title="Will 3D printing work upside down or in zero gravity?" Tags="|print-quality|extrusion|fdm|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15137" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15136" CreationDate="2020-12-29T03:30:32.420" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3D Printing upside would only potentially have an issue with the first layer if you're using an extremely large gap on the first layer, however in normal circumstances there's enough pressure that the filament is squished into the bed, if you've got one yourself you can put it on it's side, the question when it comes to 3D Printing &lt;em&gt;isn't&lt;/em&gt; upside down, but not the correct way, as it's presuming that gravity pushing down is the important thing, while in every other orientation it also works.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In theory SLA printing would work just fine, as long as you're able to seal the build plate and vat together so no resin leaks out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25990" LastActivityDate="2020-12-29T03:30:32.420" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15138" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15131" CreationDate="2020-12-29T03:32:41.613" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is an older Ender 3 Pro, they at one point came with these press-fit gears, these are not intended to be removed which is a poor design decision. I would recommend buying a new motor than going through the hassle of removing it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25990" LastActivityDate="2020-12-29T03:32:41.613" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15139" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15104" CreationDate="2020-12-29T03:39:17.767" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are three settings you will want to check in Cura to help with this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Nozzle Diameter&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check your &amp;quot;Nozzle Diameter&amp;quot; if you've moved to a larger nozzle and haven't changed it in the new Cura version then it'll be under-extruding, or the default option may just be incorrect for you, most printers (Like the stock Ender 3 Pro) use a 0.4 mm nozzle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Flow Rate&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Flow rate usually requires a calibration test, however you should reference your old Cura profile for this, if in doubt, 100 %.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Filament Diameter&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This needs to be set to 1.75 mm on almost every printer, which yours is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can't get it figured out with these, generate G-code With two versions of Cura side-by-side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25990" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-12-30T07:52:23.680" LastActivityDate="2020-12-30T07:52:23.680" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15140" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-12-29T04:54:09.100" Score="0" ViewCount="1095" Body="&lt;p&gt;My start G-code:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;M92 E128 ; Set E steps to 124 DEFAULT 130&#xA;M500 ; Store Settings&#xA;G28 X0 Y0 Z0; home all axes&#xA;G92 X-3.0 Y-12.0 Z-1.599; set home offsets&#xA;G1 X0 Y0 Z0.2 F3000 ; get ready to prime&#xA;G92 E0 ; reset extrusion distance&#xA;G1 X160 E15 F600 ; prime nozzle&#xA;G1 X180 F5000 ; quick wipe&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is used on a Creality CR 10 S5 with upgrades:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;whambam systems print bed&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;micro swiss direct drive print head&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;BLTouch   (doesn't function correctly)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Auto home (nozzle is off the bed and too low, Z -3.99)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;(When printing Start I used G92 X-3.0 Y-12.0 Z-1.599; to correct this in Cura 4.8&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Raise the Z axis to 2.8&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Did 4 corners and adjusted the screws at each corner&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Everything is supposedly level at 2.8&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Nope its not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is not level and the 3D print isn't right.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After months of messing with the screws I decided to get a BLTouch because everyone seems to do that.&#xA;I got it almost right but clearly in parts the nozzle is too close and generates small lumps or too high and gets stringy. The instructions have a broken download link.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I finally get my BLTouch. (x2)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Attaching it wasn't a problem, but nightmares with the firmware.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I had a 1.1.6 I got from the Creality web site and uploaded.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All the cables attached correctly, including disconnecting the Z axis limit switch and attachment of the BLTouch. Calibrated the BLTouch height screw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fire it up, and try to level it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Goes to the center&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Spins the Z axis downwards and never stops&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next up, reconnected the Z axis limit switch and not connect that part of the BLTouch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;This time it seems to level it, but via limit switch and not bed level.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At least I get numbers indicating some kind of level starting at the far right 4.96 with a high of 5.15 on the left front corner.  However, the limit switch triggers at -3.99 so actually the numbers should probably be lower.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Downloaded a new firmware, trying to level, Z axis motor spins upwards out of control&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Download a different firmware, Similar to the 2nd last attempt, accept it forgot how to print correctly and only uses 250-500 on both the X and Y axis.  Also I don't think its printing what I wanted, It isn't the correct shape at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried 2 different BLTouch sensors.  Both had same results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas about getting a good firmware?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas how to get BLTouch working correctly so I can level it that way?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Until it triggers the Z axis at bed level it probably won't work correctly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I figured out later that the black and white wires needed to be reversed. So the bed leveling system is working, apart from the fact it isn't yet level.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, the BLTouch firmware is mucking this up. It only wants to print from X, Y 250 to 500. So 75 % is unusable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do I fix this.  I spent hours tweaking the screws and still don't have great results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lwdqv.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lwdqv.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16395" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-01-30T21:51:38.967" LastActivityDate="2021-01-30T21:51:38.967" Title="Bed leveling problem" Tags="|troubleshooting|bed-leveling|creality-cr-10|bltouch|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15141" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-12-29T09:15:50.370" Score="0" ViewCount="249" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking to hack an IKEA Trofast storage unit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's 3 drawers high (10 cm for each drawer), I would like to make it 6 drawers high, with thinner drawers (4 cm for each drawer). Which means :&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;design the new drawer since no 3D map exists on Thingiverse for that drawer&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;print them&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;put additional rails which I found &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3582819&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So my questions are :&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is it easy to design a thin drawer from a higher one ?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;since the high drawer is 43 x 30 x 10 cm, is it easy to scan/print a big object like that one ?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Trofast unit I'm trying to hack :&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/H9Uvz.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;IKEA Trofast storage unit&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/H9Uvz.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;IKEA Trofast storage unit&quot; title=&quot;IKEA Trofast storage unit&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT&lt;/strong&gt; : Juste to make it clearer, I don't want to make a larger storage unit. I want to print thiner drawers, to be able to put 6 of them in this particular storage unit (so with the same height).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25995" LastEditorUserId="25995" LastEditDate="2020-12-29T10:52:13.490" LastActivityDate="2020-12-29T10:52:13.490" Title="Hack IKEA Trofast drawers" Tags="|diy-3d-printer|3d-design|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15143" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15146" CreationDate="2020-12-29T13:19:13.127" Score="0" ViewCount="1629" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am trying to correct the x&amp;amp;y offsets in the Tevo Tarantula that I got from a friend in order that my printer is not printing over the end.&#xA;What I got so far is that I need to measure and then enter the offsets into my configuration.h file, build the firmware and flash it to the board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because I do not have and can not find the original firmware I found the repository from &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/JimBrown/MarlinTarantula&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Jim Brown&lt;/a&gt; for the Tarantula.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looking into the top section of the config file provided by the repo, the board configured is&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#define MOTHERBOARD BOARD_MKS_GEN_13        // Original controller board with built in stepper drivers. Works with MKS BASE 1.3, 1.4&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However since the board in my Tarantula has 1.2 on it I checked the boards.h file for MKS but could not find the v1.2 :&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#define BOARD_MKS_BASE          40    // MKS BASE v1.0&#xA;#define BOARD_MKS_BASE_15       405   // MKS v1.5 with Allegro A4982 stepper drivers&#xA;#define BOARD_MKS_BASE_HEROIC   41    // MKS BASE 1.0 with Heroic HR4982 stepper drivers&#xA;#define BOARD_MKS_GEN_13        47    // MKS GEN v1.3 or 1.4&#xA;#define BOARD_MKS_GEN_L         53    // MKS GEN L&#xA;#define BOARD_MKS_GEN_L_V2      54    // MKS GEN L V2&#xA;#define BOARD_ZRIB_V20          504   // zrib V2.0 control b&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any idea, what board configuration would be compatible for 1.2? Or is there any other way to correct the x&amp;amp;y offsets other then compiling them into the firmware?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25999" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-12-29T15:41:31.993" LastActivityDate="2020-12-30T11:10:21.730" Title="What is the correct Marlin firmware setting for Tevo Tarantula with MKS Base V1.2 board" Tags="|marlin|firmware|tevo-tarantula|print-axis-offset|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15144" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15130" CreationDate="2020-12-29T13:55:28.470" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Lame solution: creating stepped pyramid with offset. I realized that scale will not worked for motives with holes inside. Offset seems then more appropriate than scale for my application (creation of stamps)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It takes ages to render, but it could be enough for simple patterns. Any better solution are still welcome...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;module buildPyramidalExtrude(height,maxOffset,nSlices){&#xA;    heightIncrement = height/nSlices;&#xA;    offsetIncrement = maxOffset/(nSlices-1);&#xA;    for(i=[1:nSlices])&#xA;        linear_extrude(height=i*heightIncrement)&#xA;              offset(r = maxOffset-(i-1)*offsetIncrement)&#xA;                children();&#xA;}&#xA;&#xA;buildPyramidalExtrude(4,2.5,20)&#xA;   import(file = &amp;quot;Farm/cow.svg&amp;quot;, center = true);&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pGUnC.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pGUnC.png&quot; alt=&quot;result&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25976" LastActivityDate="2020-12-29T13:55:28.470" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15146" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15143" CreationDate="2020-12-29T15:51:46.150" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The MKS Base v1.2 is basically an Arduino MEGA2560 and a RAMPS1.4 on a single board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can use the RAMPS pin designation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that the endstop to origin distances is explained in question &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6375/how-to-center-my-prints-on-the-build-platform-re-calibrate-homing-offset&quot;&gt;How to center my prints on the build platform? (Re-calibrate homing offset)&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In Jims Marlin fork you can find this at:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#define X_MIN_POS 0 - XTRA_BED_LEFT&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#define Y_MIN_POS 0 - XTRA_BED_BACK&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately, &lt;code&gt;XTRA_BED_LEFT&lt;/code&gt; and &lt;code&gt;XTRA_BED_BACK&lt;/code&gt; are defined as zero; this implies that the endstops define the origin (not likely) or it is left as an excercise for you to find out. &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6375/how-to-center-my-prints-on-the-build-platform-re-calibrate-homing-offset/6376#6376&quot;&gt;This answer&lt;/a&gt; explains how you figure that out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-12-30T11:10:21.730" LastActivityDate="2020-12-30T11:10:21.730" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15147" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15130" CreationDate="2020-12-29T16:57:34.640" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;What you seem to want is not per-path scale but offset. This is an &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/openscad/openscad/pull/2079&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;open PR in OpenSCAD&lt;/a&gt; and hopefully will be upstream soon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2020-12-29T16:57:34.640" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15148" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15357" CreationDate="2020-12-29T20:53:37.697" Score="1" ViewCount="413" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm relatively new to SLA 3D printing and 3D printing in general.  I got a budget SLA resin printer that I've been messing with for a few months now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I had a few soft prints laying around that have not been exposed to any UV light.  It was sunny out and I decided to bring them outside to harden them up a little bit under the sun.  And of course I forgot about them!  By the time I remembered, my prints got over cured to the point of being super brittle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Question:&lt;/strong&gt;  Let's say I properly cure a print (however that is). I'm not looking to paint it. It looks like the print could be accidentally over cured by taking it outside or sunlight shining from an open window.  Is that true?  Should I coat it with some kind of sealant if I'm done curing it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26010" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-12-30T07:09:27.083" LastActivityDate="2021-01-18T04:18:19.863" Title="Accidentally over curing a 3D print" Tags="|post-processing|resin|uv-printer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15149" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15140" CreationDate="2020-12-29T22:17:16.190" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;To address the firmware problems, Download a fresh edition of Marlin 2.0.x and configure the Configuration.h and Configuration_adv.h yourself. Others' configurations are expecting fully stock parts, and will not be compatible with your system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your main problem seems to be in your Probe Z-Offset. To get good level, you need to calculate how far above the bed the nozzle is when the probe triggers. The BLTouch height screw is &lt;em&gt;NOT&lt;/em&gt; for Z offset adjustment, and the Z-offset needs to be set with M851 in Marlin. See &lt;a href=&quot;https://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M851.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M851.html&lt;/a&gt; for more detail on how to do this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally, the Z-MIN switch should not be connected when using the BLTouch, as it IS the new Z-MIN sensor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6996" LastActivityDate="2020-12-29T22:17:16.190" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15155" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13880" CreationDate="2020-12-30T16:11:46.620" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had the same problem, solved it by inserting&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;// Move X and Y to 0 after homing&#xA;process_subcommands_now_P(&amp;quot;G1 X0 Y0 F5000&amp;quot;);&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;at the end of &lt;code&gt;G28.cpp&lt;/code&gt;, just before &lt;code&gt;ui.refresh();&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This moves the print head to X0, Y0 and leaves Z untouched after the homing procedure. This way any oozing that might happen while the extruder heats up will be outside of the bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26029" LastEditorUserId="26029" LastEditDate="2021-01-03T16:47:28.483" LastActivityDate="2021-01-03T16:47:28.483" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15156" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13339" CreationDate="2020-12-30T18:21:05.507" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was told to not even bother using the white filament which came with the Ender 5 as it was very low quality. I used an orange filament from Hatchbox and, once I have learned to adjust my settings (I found it works better at 210-215 °C), it seems to be great.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26030" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2020-12-30T22:35:01.750" LastActivityDate="2020-12-30T22:35:01.750" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15159" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-12-30T22:31:00.270" Score="2" ViewCount="1202" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Monoprice Maker Select Plus (Wanhao Duplicator i3 clone) and I'm having issued with the top layer of my prints. The bottom surface and the sides always come out perfect but my top layer is left with gaps in it. I have tried adjusting the print temperature, flow rate, print speed and layer height all with no success. I use Cura for my slicing software. If anyone knows how to help it'd be much appreciated&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MZFpf.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Closeup of failed print&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MZFpf.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Closeup of failed print&quot; title=&quot;Closeup of failed print&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/45rzs.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Failed print&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/45rzs.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Failed print&quot; title=&quot;Failed print&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26039" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2020-12-31T04:20:14.737" LastActivityDate="2021-01-30T18:01:23.753" Title="Gaps in top layer of prints" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|monoprice-maker-select-plus|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15160" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15159" CreationDate="2020-12-30T22:40:26.710" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is probably caused by too few top layers in combination with a too low infill percentage. Increase skin layers and increase infill percentage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have multiple layers already (at least about 4 for 0.2 mm layer height, for smaller layer heights even more), you might be printing at a too high temperature and or too few part cooling percentage and a too low infill percentage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-01-30T17:35:25.427" LastActivityDate="2021-01-30T17:35:25.427" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15161" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-12-31T01:47:12.290" Score="2" ViewCount="2313" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just got a new Ender3 version two for Christmas and was very excited to use it so I put it together and used the sample filament that came with the printer and everything worked okay for a bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That was until I switched something in the settings, or in Cura, or something happened, because the nozzle is too far away from the bed when printing. I will use the auto home feature to level my bed with a piece of paper and once I get that pretty close I try and start my print, and it starts a few millimetres further away from the bed than when levelling it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas to solve this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26042" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2020-12-31T04:22:38.873" LastActivityDate="2022-12-11T09:03:45.427" Title="My nozzle on my Ender3 V2 is higher when it is printing than it is when I auto home it" Tags="|creality-ender-3|pla|nozzle|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15162" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15187" CreationDate="2020-12-31T05:12:19.470" Score="1" ViewCount="879" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've printed the dog that came on the SD card of my new Ender 3 pro, and everything worked great.  Today, I turned on the unit and plugged in a Raspberry PI Zero to the Ender's USB port.  The rPi is running the latest version of OctoPrint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, when I try to Auto home, I hear a very brief sound of a motor staring to move on an axis, and then the Ender halts.  I've power cycled it several times.  When I trying to use the panel on the Ender to move on any axis the same thing happens: it sounds like it's starting to move, and then never actually tries to move again until after I power cycle.  This is the same no mater which axis I try to move.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've reinstalled the lated firmware on the Ender.  I've opened up the machine to make sure that all of the cables are attaches to the motherboard.  I've checked the actuation of the stopper switches and unplugged the switch and motor connectors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26044" LastActivityDate="2021-01-02T22:38:15.630" Title="No movement on any axis on Ender 3 Pro" Tags="|creality-ender-3|troubleshooting|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15165" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11090" CreationDate="2020-12-31T11:00:05.540" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I did also some research on this and decided to go with this solution. This fan only measures 50x50x10mm and is easy flippable: &lt;a href=&quot;https://de.aliexpress.com/item/1005001894771961.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://de.aliexpress.com/item/1005001894771961.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WYQaY.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WYQaY.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another option was this: &lt;a href=&quot;https://de.aliexpress.com/item/4001185014078.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://de.aliexpress.com/item/4001185014078.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wHwkP.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wHwkP.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also found a Thingi, where people tried to flip the existing 5015 blower fans. It seems very difficult, since you have to print the fins in flipped direction and they tend to break.. &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3716277&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3716277&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/doFXv.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/doFXv.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9423" LastEditorUserId="9423" LastEditDate="2020-12-31T11:56:01.120" LastActivityDate="2020-12-31T11:56:01.120" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15166" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-12-31T14:01:46.243" Score="0" ViewCount="1167" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am building a toolchanger CoreXY 3D printer. I am in big trouble to find mic-6 aluminium toolplate in my country. Can you suggest me an alternative to mic-6? In my country, I can find easily 5083, 6082, 7005, etc. I don't think, that theese aluminium plates are suitable as heated bed. The design of the bed is the same as the &lt;a href=&quot;https://jubilee3d.com/index.php?title=Main_Page&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;jubilee 3D printer&lt;/a&gt;, so it will be best to have minimum warpage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25597" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2021-01-02T02:30:59.940" LastActivityDate="2021-03-19T13:33:48.383" Title="alternative to Mic-6 bed plate" Tags="|diy-3d-printer|heated-bed|build-plate|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15168" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-12-31T22:34:46.070" Score="0" ViewCount="739" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an FLSUN QQ-S Pro and I'm trying to print a part consisting only of thin walls with PLA. I'm using Cura 4.8.0, &amp;quot;FLSUS QQ-S&amp;quot; profile. Unfortunately, near the seam there are signs of underextrustion. It only happens near the seam, and after a few millimeters the wall is nice and smooth again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eS8K4.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eS8K4.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;underextrustion&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Things I've tried:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Increasing hotend temperature to 210 °C&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Setting flow rate compensation factor to 105 % (can't go much higher as the wall thickness will go up from current 0.4 mm - which is the desired result for this printer)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Disabling retraction&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Enabling ironing&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;None of that helped. Is there some way to push filament a little bit forward at the start of each layer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26056" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-01-01T00:40:13.393" LastActivityDate="2021-07-09T18:52:52.723" Title="Under-extrusion near the seam" Tags="|underextrusion|flsun-qq|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15169" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-01-01T04:04:24.237" Score="0" ViewCount="811" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have OctoPrint set up on a Raspberry Pi (OctoPi). I have loaded a number of G-code files to the SD card on the printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is: If I initiate a print from the SD card via OctoPrint, can I then turn off the RPi so I can use it for other things while the print continues?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19756" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-01-04T07:44:35.847" LastActivityDate="2021-01-04T07:46:48.517" Title="Turn off OctoPrint server after starting print from SD card" Tags="|octoprint|sd|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15171" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13849" CreationDate="2021-01-01T05:55:40.340" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;They have a webpage by now   &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.flsun3d.com&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;www.flsun3d.com&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26063" LastActivityDate="2021-01-01T05:55:40.340" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15173" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-01-01T14:06:04.993" Score="1" ViewCount="4153" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have problem with my Ender 3. Whenever I print, I have proper outer dimensions (accuracy usually better than 0.1 mm, sometimes a bit worse), but every hole, pit or any inside dimension is inaccurate (0.6 - 0.8 mm never less or more).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have tried extruder calibration. Calibrated extruder voltage and e-steps (in Ender firmware), but this does not change a lot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here you can see test dimensions I modeled:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fR5Bw.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Test dimensions&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fR5Bw.png&quot; alt=&quot;Test dimensions&quot; title=&quot;Test dimensions&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And it will come out with these dimensions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RPRtY.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Resulting dimensions&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RPRtY.png&quot; alt=&quot;Resulting dimensions&quot; title=&quot;Resulting dimensions&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Aaand the final print looks like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HjodB.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Final print&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HjodB.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Final print&quot; title=&quot;Final print&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you can see, my estimation (second picture) was almost perfect. 19.3 mm and results are weirdly consistent. Always holes are 0.6 - 0.8 mm smaller than holes in model.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do you have idea why this is happening?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Specs:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Printer - Ender 3 with original circuit board&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Printer software - Marlin 2.0.5&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Model cutting software - Cura 4.8.0&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Modelling software - Fusion 360&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26067" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-01-31T22:03:28.283" LastActivityDate="2021-03-04T12:43:21.747" Title="Incorrect inner dimensions of 3D prints with Ender 3" Tags="|creality-ender-3|calibration|extrusion|dimensional-accuracy|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15174" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15173" CreationDate="2021-01-01T15:07:24.817" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are 3 effects at work, and you misread your micrometer: the measurement is 19.35 in the picture.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;You have a little lip&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's a little lip at the top and bottom of the print. You'd need to clean that up with a sharp knife or sandpaper. That is the biggest part of the error you measure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Movement errors accumulate&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Errors also collect on the center of holes due to the order in which walls are usually placed, resulting in outer walls having the correct diameters but inner holes having a small offset.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Plastic shrinks when it cools&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A smaller part of the error is the plastic shrinking as it cools, but that can be compensated for by the slicer - if your printer allows for it: Under Materials, there is a &lt;code&gt;Shrinkage Ratio&lt;/code&gt; setting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;There's compensation for that in Cura&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The option is under Shell and called Hole Horizontal Expansion. Setting that value to 0.6 mm to 0.7 mm should solve the hole sizing error.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/l0g2l.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/l0g2l.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2021-03-03T10:15:56.627" LastActivityDate="2021-03-03T10:15:56.627" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15175" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-01-01T15:22:28.337" Score="3" ViewCount="1070" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am a complete beginner so I apologise ahead for probably an obvious question. From what I understand up to now, slicer software basically takes a 3D model and turns it into instructions that say move your print head to this and this position and extrude up to this position and so forth. If that is correct then each slicing software can result in different &amp;quot;filament paths&amp;quot; in printing of the same model ultimately having the effect on the quality of print (unless the &amp;quot;Slicing algorithm&amp;quot; is some open industry accepted one and everyone uses that). But then, it would be advantageous to use other slicer software than the one supplied with the printer. On the other hand, if a slicer gives the instructions to the printer and assuming the G-code is a universal instruction kit (standard each printer understands), it needs to know, at the least, the parameters of the printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the questions are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Can I use any slicing software with any 3D printer and are there any things that may cause a problem (e.g. &amp;quot;How do I set up the slicing software for a particular printer?&amp;quot;)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If not, am I stuck with the software provided by the printer manufacturer and thus, before buying a printer, one should also analyse the slicing software provided or is there some compatibility chart?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regarding 2. I looked at both PrusaSlicer, Slic3r, Cura. None of them provide any information on the compatibility. I have access to Creality CR-10S printer but when I saw e.g. PrusaSlicer compared to the Creality, it has more options it seems. But during the installation of the Creality slicer, it forced me to choose the printer that I will be using which suggests that printers are locked to the manufacturer slicer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26059" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-01-31T21:27:32.357" LastActivityDate="2021-02-01T21:07:40.153" Title="Slicers and printers compatibility" Tags="|g-code|slicing|software|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15176" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15175" CreationDate="2021-01-01T16:17:32.670" Score="1" Body="&lt;h1&gt;FDM Slicers are not proprietory&lt;sup&gt;exceptions apply&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most commonly uses Slicers are generally &lt;strong&gt;not&lt;/strong&gt; locked to manufacturers or models. Creality's slicer is a variant of Cura, Prusa Slicer is a (further developed) variant of Slic3r. You can slice models for almost any G-code reading 3D Printer with any of the 4.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The question at the first startup or installation is to automate setup: back when I bought my Ender 3, I had to manually make a profile that would fit my printer. Now, you can choose presets that set up the bed size, a safe start G-code and some settings from where you can work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;exceptions&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, some machines are &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; compatible with normal slicers, because they either don't run G-code but a proprietary file format or because their geometry is non-standard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An example of the former type is for example the DaVinci Color printers that use &lt;code&gt;.XYZ&lt;/code&gt; files, which contain not only movement commands for the printhead and extruder, but also color print commands for the ink-head. An example of the latter type is &amp;quot;Belt Printers&amp;quot;, which use standard G-code but are sliced not in the same way as for normal printers - you need the Cura Blackbelt variant to make the proper command file.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other slicers like Voxelizer are locked down to the printers of the software's manufacturer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-01-31T21:29:53.723" LastActivityDate="2021-01-31T21:29:53.723" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15177" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15178" CreationDate="2021-01-02T00:02:00.683" Score="1" ViewCount="129" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've searched, and surprisingly I am not able to find this design on Thingiverse:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ne732.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ne732.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Where can I find this 3d model?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25720" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2021-01-02T01:03:35.427" LastActivityDate="2021-01-02T01:03:35.427" Title="Looking for this stl design for a cellphone clamp" Tags="|stl|part-identification|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15178" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15177" CreationDate="2021-01-02T00:11:17.517" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;This file simply is not on Thingiverse. Not all files are on Thingiverse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A Google reverse-image-search for that picture in all size told me that the image stems from an &lt;a href=&quot;https://all3dp.com/2/best-3d-printer-camera-monitor-3d-printer/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;all3dp article&lt;/a&gt;, and they have a reference link to &lt;a href=&quot;https://assets.pinshape.com/uploads/image/file/155113/universal-phone-tripod-mount-3d-printing-155113.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Pinshape&lt;/a&gt; as it is presented here:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://all3dp.com/2/best-3d-printer-camera-monitor-3d-printer/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gaM8I.png&quot; alt=&quot;As seen on all3dp&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The file name of the linked picture is &lt;code&gt;universal-phone-tripod-mount-3d-printing-155113.jpg&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Taking that as a search term lead me to pinshape model &lt;a href=&quot;https://pinshape.com/items/37196-3d-printed-universal-phone-tripod-mount&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;37196: 3d printed universal phone-tripod mount&lt;/a&gt; by &lt;a href=&quot;https://pinshape.com/users/220819-jakejake&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;jakejake&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastActivityDate="2021-01-02T00:11:17.517" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15180" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15182" CreationDate="2021-01-02T00:50:37.960" Score="1" ViewCount="7923" Body="&lt;p&gt;I keep having a recurring problem with my ender 3 pro.  The bowden tube keeps popping off here (pictured)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hWvUQ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hWvUQ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've read elsewhere online where people are having a similar problem, i.e. the ptfe tube is actually popping out, but I don't know if thats the case here.  It's staying attached to the metal coupler, but that metal coupler is unscrewing during the course of the print and falling out.  Any tips to fix it?  New one? Some sort of loc-tite to get it to not unscrew?  Any ideas?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15186" LastActivityDate="2021-01-02T02:24:12.910" Title="Ender 3 Bowden tube popping off" Tags="|creality-ender-3|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15181" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15180" CreationDate="2021-01-02T01:51:58.230" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the fitting is remaining attached to the PTFE tubing, that would indicate that the threaded end of the fitting is pulling out of the drive assembly. This implies that the internal threads of the drive assembly have stripped out. This is not unusual for a plastic drive assembly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The best solution is to replace the drive assembly. I believe I paid about US$12 for the last one I purchased and it was aluminum, not plastic. A quick search for &amp;quot;Ender 3 drive mechanism&amp;quot; returned a number of choices. One of them from &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B07SY745CF&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Amazon&lt;/a&gt; (14.98) is anodized aluminum and purports to be improved over the original.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bT6mO.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bT6mO.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;ender 3 compatible drive assembly&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A less than ideal solution would involve drilling out the stripped threads and installing an insert (sometimes called a Heli-coil™) but that could be as expensive as a replacement mechanism.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastActivityDate="2021-01-02T01:51:58.230" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15182" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15180" CreationDate="2021-01-02T02:24:12.910" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The fitting can be defective and no longer hold upon the PTFE tube anymore. In that case, you need to cut off a short piece of the tube and most likely replace the fitting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the metal coupler &lt;em&gt;unscrews&lt;/em&gt; you can fix that by properly screwing it &lt;em&gt;tight&lt;/em&gt;. If it does not stay put after applying some torque upon it, then the screw thread is broken, and the whole extruder gearing-setup needs to be replaced. An aluminium swap part costs about 10 to 15 €.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastActivityDate="2021-01-02T02:24:12.910" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15183" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14138" CreationDate="2021-01-02T14:58:25.277" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had exact same issues with my Ender 3 v2. Using the stock default glass the middle would be too far out and I was never able to level it just right - no matter what I did - I could have stayed on it for hours.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In matter of fact, it wasn't just the middle, it was the middle between each of the corner points as well, meaning, imagine a plus sign going across from the dead middle of the bed vertically and horizontally, where all that area would be a little too far out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did anything I could, eventually what solved it for me was tightening all of the frame once again, making sure the x-axis gantry doesn't wobble, the hotend doesn't wobble and then realign the gantry nuts below the bed, to help with this alignment I actually tilted the whole printer 90° so gravity will help the wheels get the right alignment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The issues such as you are describing were gone after complete overhaul tightening as mentioned above.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23647" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2021-01-02T17:52:55.977" LastActivityDate="2021-01-02T17:52:55.977" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15184" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15232" CreationDate="2021-01-02T21:30:34.637" Score="1" ViewCount="1669" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a base model Ender 5 with the silent v4.2.7 board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Earlier this week during an overnight print, I came in to find it unfinished and powered off. I turned it back and it complained about an outage. When I started warming the hotend, it squealed and turned itself back off and then back on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now anytime, I try to warm up the hotend, I get the same.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I set up the printer to give data me debugging data via the console in Pronterface and in Simplify3D. I don't receive any kind of error, the printer just powers off and then back on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm hoping that the thermister is just dead and I can replace it easily enough. What I'm afraid of is that the board itself is dead. BTW, I am able to warm up the bed with no problem, just not the hot end. Any insight would be appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26089" LastActivityDate="2021-01-06T18:21:22.113" Title="Dead thermister or dead board on Ender 5?" Tags="|hotend|thermistor|creality-ender-5|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15185" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-01-02T21:56:58.800" Score="1" ViewCount="154" Body="&lt;p&gt;While printing the bed temperature is changing like this. If the print time is below 30 minutes, printers stops after print two layers. But longer then 30 minutes, finishing job. I changed bed thermistor but problem still going. There was no problem until upload the Marlin Bugfix 2.0 . I connected BL TOUCH on my printer and its working correctly. I didn't change any PID or temperature settings on Marlin Bugfix 2.0&#xA;2-hour print has just been successfully completed. But when i print something for 10 minutes the printer stops working&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Printer : My own design COREXY&#xA;Firmware : Marlin Bugfix 2.0&#xA;Motherboard : MKS Base V1.6&#xA;Slicer : Prusa Slicer&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lbIe6.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lbIe6.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ScE0t.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ScE0t.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26091" LastActivityDate="2021-01-02T21:56:58.800" Title="Bed temperature is changing randomly" Tags="|heated-bed|temperature|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15186" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15193" CreationDate="2021-01-02T22:15:20.677" Score="1" ViewCount="619" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am new to 3D printing and have a newish Eryone Thinker SE.  Its been printing fine with some Eryone Glitter Black (EGB) and I'm happy with the results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The spool has now finished and I'm trying to use some black Tinmorry and/or Sunlu - both rolls are displaying the same issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can load and purge the new filament just fine but starting a print immediately after results in no filament being extruded.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have unloaded/reloaded, purged and retried a few times to no success. I also switched back to the take end of the  EGB with success.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Extruder temperature is 205 °C. Is this just too cold for the new spools?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25917" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-01-02T23:13:52.893" LastActivityDate="2021-01-04T08:20:44.820" Title="Purge okay but not extruding during printing" Tags="|filament|temperature|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15187" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15162" CreationDate="2021-01-02T22:38:15.630" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I upgraded to the latest firmware, and now everything works again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26044" LastActivityDate="2021-01-02T22:38:15.630" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15190" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-01-03T23:18:43.670" Score="1" ViewCount="82" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an issue with a Y-shift every few lines &lt;strong&gt;only&lt;/strong&gt; when printing multiple items at once. If I print the &lt;em&gt;exact same models&lt;/em&gt; individually, they each print fine. Notice the shift only happens a few times, about every 4 lines, and then stops happening.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I’m printing PLA on an Ender 3 Pro, slicing with Cura 4.8 (Mac).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas on how to troubleshoot?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bLrf7.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Annotated image of both multiple and single prints&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bLrf7.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Annotated image of both multiple and single prints&quot; title=&quot;Annotated image of both multiple and single prints&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Uv2PZ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Failed print on bed&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Uv2PZ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Failed print on bed&quot; title=&quot;Failed print on bed&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cOq7r.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Two towers showing Y-shift&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cOq7r.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Two towers showing Y-shift&quot; title=&quot;Two towers showing Y-shift&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/odYrB.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Closeup of failed print showing layering&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/odYrB.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Closeup of failed print showing layering&quot; title=&quot;Closeup of failed print showing layering&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26111" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2021-01-04T08:35:28.200" LastActivityDate="2021-01-05T00:43:29.800" Title="Intermittent Y-shift print issue only with multiple items" Tags="|creality-ender-3|pla|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15191" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15169" CreationDate="2021-01-04T00:20:33.137" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your printer will stop printing. So no.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26113" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-01-04T07:46:09.360" LastActivityDate="2021-01-04T07:46:09.360" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15192" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15169" CreationDate="2021-01-04T00:54:31.827" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Disconnecting the USB or connecting it triggers a reboot in the printer. As a result, you can not disconnect or turn off the print server running OctoPrint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-01-04T07:46:48.517" LastActivityDate="2021-01-04T07:46:48.517" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15193" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15186" CreationDate="2021-01-04T08:20:44.820" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;So, I was able to fix this (or it fixed itself overnight as these things sometimes do) with a 5°C increase in extruder temperature to 210°C.  The Sunlu PLA filament specifies 200°C - 230°C as its print range.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I followed the advice of a IRL friend who suggested &amp;quot;What happens if you raise the z a bit so you can see the nozzle and keep raising the heat until it starts to come out on its own.  Check temp and then run a print at that temp.&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I only needed that 5°C increase before I could see it oozing.  From there I was able to successfully print a calibration cube and further model.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25917" LastActivityDate="2021-01-04T08:20:44.820" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15194" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15199" CreationDate="2021-01-04T09:58:19.717" Score="2" ViewCount="1179" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been trying to print some M14 female threads. The male threads I've printed were perfect and fit into a female metal nut, but for some reason I cannot get the female threads to &amp;quot;stick&amp;quot;. This means that they end up being hard to screw into, or the male end (both metal and my printed versions) goes in wonky.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm printing in PLA on an Ender 3 V2 at 200 °C on a 50 °C bed. I've tried various resolutions (down to 0.1 mm layer height) and they all exhibit the issue.  Print speed is 50 mm/s, cooling is just the stock cooling and fan 100 % after the first layer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The actual file can be found &lt;a href=&quot;https://easyupload.io/93i2lh&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; (note that it's slightly oversized vs a metric M14 female to allow for printer tolerances) and the follow image shows what I'm talking about:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XbNOn.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XbNOn.png&quot; alt=&quot;Example&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's as though the nozzle is pulling the filament away from the wall, but I've tried Z Hop Retraction and combing (infill only) and that gives the same result.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Answer:&lt;/strong&gt; The accepted answer and the comments against the question pointed me in the right direction. A combination of turning off combing and reducing the hot end temp to 190°C gave me perfect threads in 3 consecutive prints.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26136" LastEditorUserId="26136" LastEditDate="2021-01-05T14:06:15.000" LastActivityDate="2021-01-05T14:06:15.000" Title="Internal thread not sticking to inner wall" Tags="|creality-ender-3|adhesion|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15196" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15095" CreationDate="2021-01-04T14:03:04.273" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As Andrew stated: PTFE tape should not be needed.&#xA;Tighten the nozzle with the hotend hotter than you print at and also clean the threads with a tap if you need to.&#xA;To answer your question: it would stop leakage from the threads.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4708" LastActivityDate="2021-01-04T14:03:04.273" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15197" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15201" CreationDate="2021-01-04T14:04:54.560" Score="1" ViewCount="147" Body="&lt;p&gt;One could make such a controller with 3D printer parts and building a case for them, but is it significantly less than just buying a compatible low-cost printer.  The intent is to heat up the all-metal hot end to tighten the nozzle to the heater break.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15075" LastEditorUserId="15075" LastEditDate="2021-01-04T16:36:13.877" LastActivityDate="2021-01-04T16:36:13.877" Title="Is it practical to build a separate hotend temperature controller to assemble hotends without taking up printer time?" Tags="|hotend|all-metal-hotend|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15198" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15077" CreationDate="2021-01-04T15:05:11.040" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As a software developer and 3D printing enthusiast I can tell you that indeed, as Trish said, the limit is your memory (RAM) and loading/slicing time depends on the CPU power.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;RAM&lt;/strong&gt;: keep an eye on the memory usage in the task manager/performance/memory tab. When it reaches the top of the graph, the application will suddenly crash and disappear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;CPU&lt;/strong&gt;: The application (Cura/3D Slicer/Prusaslicer) can become &amp;quot;not responsive&amp;quot;. This does not always mean that the process hangs. It just means that the CPU is very busy and the program is not reporting the progress to windows. Most probably the application will recover from this if you just choose to wait.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Files do not get dumbed down when imported, as far as I am aware, in Cura. They are shown exactly like in the STL. Don't know about other software though, but I doubt this happens.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you noted, this has nothing to do with G-code, which is loaded serially.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4708" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2023-03-01T14:40:21.150" LastActivityDate="2023-03-01T14:40:21.150" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15199" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15194" CreationDate="2021-01-04T15:22:06.607" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I do a lot with printed threads, and find this problem creeps up mostly when the filament is wet. Higher temperature (like 220) can partly compensate but it's better to dry your filament and store it properly to keep it dry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming standard metric thread profile, though, these are also pretty severe overhangs for a concave extrusion (where motion of the head will tend to pull the way you're seeing) unless you use very thin layers. You probably need 0.16 mm or thinner to print reliably (independent of pitch, though finer pitch also needs finer layers for other reasons), and limited acceleration for outer walls (I use 500 mm/s²).  If you slice with &amp;quot;outer walls first&amp;quot; turned off, you may be able to get by with thicker layers, provided you have everything else tuned perfectly to ensure the outer wall sticks to the previously extruded inner one (i.e. flow rate perfect).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A contributor to your problem could also be underextrusion due to oozing during combing. You might try setting max comb distance very low (like 0.6 mm, around what I use) or turning off combing and see if that helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2021-01-04T15:22:06.607" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15200" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15095" CreationDate="2021-01-04T15:30:39.213" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Whether this is even potentially beneficial depends on the type of hotend you're using. With one like the Ender 3 where the PTFE tube butts all the way against the nozzle, it's not useful, and if it seems useful it means your hotend is misassembled, since filament is never supposed to make contact with the top of the threads.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For an all metal hotend with flaws in the mating surfaces, it's plausible that it might help, but it rather defeats the purpose of having all metal (high temp).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2021-01-04T15:30:39.213" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15201" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15197" CreationDate="2021-01-04T15:35:35.410" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can get a suitable board for $20 or so, print a case for a few cents, and either repurpose an old PC power supply or buy a new one just powerful enough for the hotend (not bed) heater very cheap, so I think it's a lot less costly than a cheap printer, and cobsumes less space. But I'm not clear what you need it for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2021-01-04T15:35:35.410" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15202" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-01-04T18:07:45.077" Score="0" ViewCount="311" Body="&lt;p&gt;Machine type is an Ender 3 pro with the 4.2.7 board, the latest Marlin bugfix code, latest BLTouch 3.1, latest all metal extruder feeder hardware, Capricorn Bowden PTFE Tubing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This really started after having a bad clog in the extruder, thus had to take it apart, clean the clog and put it back together.  Nothing changed in any of the axes gantries it just all of a sudden started printing the first few layers very poorly. In fact anything that is only say less than 3 mm tall won't print hardly at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First layer print for bed leveling does print well, and the bed is pretty level. PLA used as filament, temperatures are 200 °C for the nozzle and 60 °C for the bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Qimzc.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Qimzc.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;PhotoOfBadFirstFewLayers&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26145" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-01-05T15:58:45.917" LastActivityDate="2021-01-05T15:58:45.917" Title="First few layers are now printing very badly" Tags="|print-quality|creality-ender-3|troubleshooting|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15203" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15104" CreationDate="2021-01-04T19:47:29.400" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Total user error on my end.  With the new version of this app somehow I did not catch that material selected on the UI dropdown was set to some custom material and not Generic PLA.  Once I selected the proper material, all worked as expected.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25913" LastActivityDate="2021-01-04T19:47:29.400" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15204" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15190" CreationDate="2021-01-05T00:43:29.800" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I initially tightened the tensioner for the x-axis belt pulley, which seemed to help. Then I double-checked my installation, and realized the belt for the x-axis was on upside down (belt teeth go in, smooth side of belt out).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I guess it’s actually more surprising it’s been working well until now...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26111" LastActivityDate="2021-01-05T00:43:29.800" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15205" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14985" CreationDate="2021-01-05T07:20:25.867" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, there is such a way in Tinkercad. It is called a shape generator and it is very well hidden. you can find it here:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Open Tinkercad and select a model to Tinker or create a new one.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;select the &amp;quot;Basic shapes&amp;quot; pulldown on the right and choose the last option: &amp;quot;shape generators&amp;quot;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;choose &amp;quot;create shape generator&amp;quot;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;choose &amp;quot;new shape generator&amp;quot; and select a template to start from&#xA;Here you have the javascript code to create a shape with parameters like basic shapes.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4708" LastActivityDate="2021-01-05T07:20:25.867" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15206" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-01-05T09:23:26.857" Score="1" ViewCount="1914" Body="&lt;p&gt;When printing the Z-axis appears out of scale. I'm using a self-built 3D printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When printing a 10x10x10 mm cube, the Z height is 9.01 mm;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When printing a 20x20x20 mm cube, the Z height is 18.6 mm.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know a possible cause of this problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;I checked the G-code and everything is sliced correctly.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;em&gt;I have now tried connecting a computer to the printer via usb and I executed the command &lt;code&gt;M92&lt;/code&gt;. The response I got was this: &lt;code&gt;M92 X200 Y200 Z8000 E500&lt;/code&gt;.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26160" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-01-06T07:21:45.883" LastActivityDate="2021-01-07T15:55:08.963" Title="Z-axis scale wrong" Tags="|z-axis|layer-height|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15207" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15206" CreationDate="2021-01-05T09:44:49.200" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Assuming that the model is sliced correctly, not scaled (by looking into the G-code you can find out if it is sliced correctly, look up the last layer move &lt;code&gt;G1 Zxx.xx&lt;/code&gt;, &lt;code&gt;xx.xx&lt;/code&gt; should be the height of the model). If that is correct, then your Z might have a problem in that the steps per mm are set incorrectly, or your Z stepper is missing steps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As Marlin is used as printer firmware, you can check and change the configuration of the Z steps per mm. When using &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10573/what-is-a-printer-console-terminal&quot;&gt;a console&lt;/a&gt; you are able to communicate with the printer and see output return.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With G-code &lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#M92:_Set_axis_steps_per_unit&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;code&gt;M92&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/a&gt; you get a report of the current settings. These should be verified with the mechanics (e.g. gearing) and electronics used (e.g. micro stepping value).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In firmware configuration this is found in file Configuration.h (&lt;em&gt;note: this is an &lt;strong&gt;example&lt;/strong&gt; and may differ from your values!&lt;/em&gt;):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;/**&#xA; * Default Axis Steps Per Unit (steps/mm)&#xA; * Override with M92&#xA; *                                      X, Y, Z, E0 [, E1[, E2...]]&#xA; */&#xA;#define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT   { 80, 80, 4000, 500 }&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The third value is the setting for the Z axis. Your value is too low and should be increased according to the fore mentioned mechanics and electronics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By sending the command &lt;code&gt;M92 Zxxx&lt;/code&gt; (where xxx denotes the value you calculated) will update the steps per mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are &lt;a href=&quot;https://blog.prusaprinters.org/calculator_3416/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;online calculators&lt;/a&gt; that can help you calculate the correct value.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As an example, a very common lead screw is the trapezoid Tr8x8(p2). Assuming that you have normal 200 steps/rev steppers and use 16 micro steps and have the fore mentioned lead screws with a 2 mm pitch, the Z requires 1600 steps per mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should check your hardware, stepper, screw and driver. Note that 8000 is a strange value, your Z axis is only about 10 % off, if 8000 value is correct for 200 (1.8°), 1/32, 0.8 pitch, but also for 400 (0.9°), 1/16, 0.8 pitch (M5).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Considering you are losing about 10 % it can also be that the Z stepper is missing some steps. Increasing the Vref of the stepper motor drivers may help with that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-01-07T15:55:08.963" LastActivityDate="2021-01-07T15:55:08.963" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15211" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15202" CreationDate="2021-01-05T15:47:53.107" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well, I guess if I were more experienced I would have checked this earlier.  I tried everything almost tore my printer apart and rebuilt.  One more testing of a cube and the filament broke.  I became suspicious and replaced the filament with another brand and voila, no more printing issues!  Looks like it was the filament.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26145" LastActivityDate="2021-01-05T15:47:53.107" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15213" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15215" CreationDate="2021-01-05T18:04:35.657" Score="-1" ViewCount="167" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to write a couple of very simple G-code test cases in Marlin-Style to make sure my printer works properly. The idea is to test the movement system, then the end-stops, then the heating and ability to hold temperature. But Marlin already runs large, so I can't spare too many lines in the basic setup, if I want to integrate it into the firmware.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The test I have in mind is this order of operations, covering the basis of each axis and the thermal control:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The printhead shall move up 20 mm, then right and forward the same.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the printhead shall home.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the printhead shall rise again by 20 mm.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The preheating shall be done (50°C bed, 180°C head).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The printer shall do nothing for 2 minutes.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The printer shall cool down.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Beep twice to signal that the test is concluded.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the best way to set up such a test code in the least amount of lines? Did I forget a crucial test command?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2021-01-08T10:10:16.490" LastActivityDate="2022-05-12T09:58:17.823" Title="Writing G-Code: length-optimized Test code" Tags="|troubleshooting|g-code|knowledgebase|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15214" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15217" CreationDate="2021-01-05T20:56:39.513" Score="2" ViewCount="1852" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm having an issue with bed levelling since upgrading my stock &lt;em&gt;Ender 3 pro&lt;/em&gt; to &lt;em&gt;Marlin 2.0.7.2&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The upgrade process seems to have gone through fine, I get the new options and it shows the FW version when I power on. My issue however, is that after I auto home the printer, disable stoppers and then level the bed, using a piece of paper, any time I attempt to print the nozzle hits the bed which stops all flow as there's no space for the filament to come out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This process is exactly the same as I used to do before the upgrade and I never had issues, only since the upgrade.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For reference, I've manually adjusted all the wheels on the printer so there's a large gap (for testing) between the paper and the nozzle at any point on the bed (the piece of paper passes below the nozzle with zero resistance). However, when I attempt a print, it homes the printer and then the nozzle drops lower and crushes any paper I put between the nozzle and the bed (I do this while testing so it doesn't damage the bed), the paper is impossible to move by hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyone know what I'm doing wrong here? None of the guides that I've found for installing &lt;em&gt;Marlin 2.x&lt;/em&gt; on the &lt;em&gt;Ender 3 Pro&lt;/em&gt; mention anything about having to make any changes to allow the Z axis to work like before so at a bit of a loss as to why this is happening.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Something that occurred to me. I use PrusaSlicer as my slicer and I noticed that it has the following lines in the custom G-code for the template that I always use that reference &amp;quot;Z&amp;quot;, now admittedly I'm no expert with G-codes but could it be either of these that's causing the issue:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;G1 Z2 F240&#xA;G1 Z0.28 F240&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edited to add full prusaslicer template gcode below:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Start G-code&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;M83 ; extruder relative mode&#xA;M104 S[first_layer_temperature] ; set extruder temp&#xA;M140 S[first_layer_bed_temperature] ; set bed temp&#xA;M190 S[first_layer_bed_temperature] ; wait for bed temp&#xA;M109 S[first_layer_temperature] ; wait for extruder temp&#xA;G28 ; home all&#xA;G1 Z2 F240&#xA;G1 X2 Y10 F3000&#xA;G1 Z0.28 F240&#xA;G92 E0&#xA;G1 Y190 E15 F1500 ; intro line&#xA;G1 X2.3 F5000&#xA;G92 E0&#xA;G1 Y10 E15 F1200 ; intro line&#xA;G92 E0&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;End G-code&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;{if max_layer_z &amp;lt; max_print_height}G1 Z{z_offset+min(max_layer_z+2, max_print_height)} F600{endif} ; Move print head up&#xA;G1 X5 Y170 F{travel_speed*60} ; present print&#xA;{if max_layer_z &amp;lt; max_print_height-10}G1 Z{z_offset+min(max_layer_z+70, max_print_height-10)} F600{endif} ; Move print head further up&#xA;M140 S0 ; turn off heatbed&#xA;M104 S0 ; turn off temperature&#xA;M107 ; turn off fan&#xA;M84 X Y E ; disable motors&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Before layer G-code&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;;BEFORE_LAYER_CHANGE&#xA;G92 E0&#xA;;[layer_z]&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;After layer G-code&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;;AFTER_LAYER_CHANGE&#xA;;[layer_z]&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26169" LastEditorUserId="26169" LastEditDate="2021-01-06T13:22:34.870" LastActivityDate="2021-01-07T18:18:50.183" Title="Z axis issue after upgrade from stock FW to Marlin 2.0.7.2 on Ender 3 Pro" Tags="|creality-ender-3|z-axis|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15215" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15213" CreationDate="2021-01-05T21:40:54.890" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can get down to 13(14) lines using 6 commands, one of which is optional: &lt;a href=&quot;https://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/G000-G001.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;G1 movements,&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;https://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/G028.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;G28 homing,&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;https://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M140.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;M140 setting the bed temperature without pause&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;https://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M109.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;M109 to set the hotend temperature&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;https://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/G004.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;G4 dwell to pause&lt;/a&gt;, and &lt;a href=&quot;https://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M300.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;M300 to beep.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The line in [] is optional, but the nozzle isn't safe to touch right away - waiting for the cooldown ensures touch safety.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;G1 Z20 F1000 ; Movement Test Z&#xA;G1 X20       ; Movement Test X&#xA;G1 Y20       ; Movement Test Y&#xA;G28          ; Homing Test&#xA;G1 Z20       ; Movement up (safety measure)&#xA;M140 S50     ; Set Bed temperature to 50, directly goto next line&#xA;M109 R180    ; Set Nozzle temperature to 180, wait for achieving&#xA;G4 S60       ; Wait a minute (to see if nozzle temperature is held)&#xA;M140 S0      ; &amp;quot;turn off&amp;quot; bed&#xA;[ M109 R25     ; set nozzle temperature to 25C, wait for achieving ]&#xA;M109 S0      ; actually turn off nozzle!&#xA;M300 S440 P200 ; Beep&#xA;G4 P200      ; short pause&#xA;M300 S660 P200 ; Beep&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2022-05-12T09:58:17.823" LastActivityDate="2022-05-12T09:58:17.823" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15216" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7676" CreationDate="2021-01-05T22:29:52.713" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The supplement on how to proceed with custom menus in practice:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Enable (uncomment) this line in &lt;code&gt;configuration_adv.h&lt;/code&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#define CUSTOM_USER_MENUS  &#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Below there are 5 sample entries, later you can change them or remove/comment out.&#xA;You can add new, for example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;  #define  USER_DESC_6 &amp;quot;Home Z (0.2)&amp;quot;&#xA;  #define USER_GCODE_6 &amp;quot;G28 Z\nG0 Z0.2&amp;quot;&#xA;&#xA;  #define  USER_DESC_7 &amp;quot;Fan on&amp;quot;&#xA;  #define USER_GCODE_7 &amp;quot;M106 S255&amp;quot;&#xA;&#xA;  #define  USER_DESC_8 &amp;quot;Fan off&amp;quot;&#xA;  #define USER_GCODE_8 &amp;quot;M107&amp;quot;&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Marlin currently (v2.0.7.2) supports up to 25 menu items (see menu_custom.cpp). There may be gaps in these numbers, so you can comment out some unnecesary options without fixing numbering of others, which could be really convenient.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Custom commands can be executed in runtime (when already printing). I could use the above &amp;quot;home Z&amp;quot; after manually tuning Z endstop to correct first layer's height quickly, without restarting the print. So you can actually make harm to ongoing print as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26170" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2021-01-06T08:05:07.270" LastActivityDate="2021-01-06T08:05:07.270" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15217" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15214" CreationDate="2021-01-06T00:21:13.053" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;This seems like Z homing issue. Sounds pretty frustrating, so I will try to give some hints, though I do not have Ender 3. Also maybe my few questions will be helpful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Did you &amp;quot;adjusted all the wheels on the printer&amp;quot; after the Z position was zeroed? This could be crucial, especially that firmware may raise Z up after homing (e.g. to 4mm). The G-Code you have sent makes simple Z moves: rises to 2mm, then lowers to 0.28 mm above the sea level (and F is denotion of speed). And obviously this should happen AFTER homing Z axis, not earlier - could you check earlier G-Code for G28 call?&#xA;If you can manually move the bed out of heatend's range (to avoid crashing it) then I suggest to use own file containing only two commands to experiment with Z homing only, e.g.:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;G90             ; absolute positioning (just to be sure it is not incremental G91)&#xA;G28 Z           ; homing Z axis&#xA;G1 Z0.0 F100    ; firmware may have raised Z up slightly, so lower again to 0&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If homing would cause the bed accident, than I am unfortunately right - or:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Added after tracing real problem) Check if Z axis is not loose - e.g. coupler screws are tight - so Z axis cannot rotate on its own by gravity and wight of carrige. When Z steppers are enabled, you should not be possible to move carriage up and down with slight pressur of hands.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does the printer react to Z endstop? This is first thing to check, actually. You can you press it with finger during Z homing to check if it would react properly (Z homing stopped).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If not, then... did you compile Marlin on your own? For example maybe the Z endstop is or should be inverted. More insight is needed then against the Configuration.h, e.g. file for Z_MIN_ENDSTOP settings. Would be good to have its version from previous firmware, or google some valid Ender 3 file to compare with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26170" LastEditorUserId="26170" LastEditDate="2021-01-07T18:18:50.183" LastActivityDate="2021-01-07T18:18:50.183" CommentCount="12" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15218" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15225" CreationDate="2021-01-06T02:00:01.897" Score="1" ViewCount="101" Body="&lt;p&gt;The image below I indicated where the point where the tip of my extruder returns after changing the layer height, I don't know if I am right to call this point &amp;quot;Start Point&amp;quot; ...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mZmgC.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mZmgC.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem I am having is possible to see in the photo, because there is a slip of material and sometimes &amp;quot;webs&amp;quot; are created that compromise the quality of the print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried to modify the retraction parameters, such as: speed and retraction length ...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a parameter that I can modify to improve my print?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The slicer software I use is the : FlashPrint_4.5.1 (because I have a FlashForge Dreamer NX)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5681" LastActivityDate="2021-01-07T09:57:32.847" Title="Failure near the start point" Tags="|slicing|flashforge|flashforge-dreamer|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15222" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-01-06T06:50:59.633" Score="1" ViewCount="271" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am making a DIY 3D printer and I need to know which stepper motor I should use. I am planning on making an 18x18x18 or 20x20x20 max print size. I am only using a single Z-axis like the Prusa Mini. I am planning on using 1.75 mm filament.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which stepper motor should I use for my X-, Y-, and Z-axes and the extruder?  How do I calculate the power needed? Will 2.8 kg or something near it be enough?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26165" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2023-12-08T04:43:01.850" LastActivityDate="2023-12-08T04:43:01.850" Title="How to choose a stepper motor when building a DIY 3D printer?" Tags="|diy-3d-printer|stepper|prusa-mini|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15223" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15297" CreationDate="2021-01-06T08:15:42.343" Score="3" ViewCount="265" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to build my own curing station for my resin printed parts.&#xA;I know there are a lot of prebuilt machines but they do not completely satisfy my needs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I now want to know which material i can use to cover the chamber, but still be able to see inside.&#xA;The material should therefore block UV light but still be transparent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The material should be transparent to only light above the UV spectrum, but should block UV light (UV-A, UV-B if possible)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The material should be purchasable in sheets to be able to build a cover out of it (e.g. acrylic sheets)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the color is not relevant as long as you can see through it&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The questions is now, which material satisfies those points?&#xA;You can find reference on existing machines like the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.elegoo.com/products/elegoo-mercury-plus-2-in-1-washing-and-curing-machine&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Elegoo Mercury Pro&lt;/a&gt; or the &lt;a href=&quot;https://formlabs.com/de/wash-cure/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Formlabs Form Wash&lt;/a&gt;. Maybe somebody knows which material has been used by either one of them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26178" LastEditorUserId="26178" LastEditDate="2021-01-06T19:41:19.120" LastActivityDate="2021-01-12T16:08:00.400" Title="How to block UV light (transparent material)?" Tags="|diy-3d-printer|resin|sla|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15225" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15218" CreationDate="2021-01-06T12:14:44.853" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Photo interpretation: I understand that the image on the right presents the actual error: it happens on many layers, following the red &amp;quot;Starting Point&amp;quot; line (so above it on the photo). Interesting issue. Btw. which side of the print is the bottom (zero layer)? - I believe the left side, and the right side is the top of the print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem seems to apeear only in the middle of print. Top and bottom layers are usually printed slower, this could be some hint to find the reason. Also, I guess that the vertical cross section is not just a rectangle, but is wider on the top part? - then print parameters (e.g. speed) may change because of overhangs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could you share what type of filament do you print with? For example flexible materials will specifically react to the pressure and should not be forcefully retracted and pushed.&#xA;What type&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any exccessive material anywhere on the table? Like oozing or stringing? Do you see any material lost before printing the first layer? If not, the retraction is good enough or even too heavy - then try to minimize it: you may go down until you see any oozing, and then check the wall.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could you share what range of parameters you have tried- especially the speed and retraction values? Jerk and accelleration? Do you use coasting or other pressure affecting techniques?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the hotend diameter? - the specs says 0.4 mm and the direct extruder. And (in comparision) what is the wall's line width for extrusion? What is the real width of this wall? (Is it properly sliced and reflected in G-Code? I advice to use G-Code viewer and inspect the details in given area.) What is the infill %, and how many wall lines do you have configured? And the layer height?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope this is of some help for diagnosis.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26170" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-01-07T09:57:32.847" LastActivityDate="2021-01-07T09:57:32.847" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15226" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15218" CreationDate="2021-01-06T12:24:03.600" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have recently looked into &amp;quot;print outer walls first&amp;quot; in an attempt to make the seam vanish. But turning that setting on creates a webby structure on the following area for my printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Turning the setting off again (and reducing the outer wall speed to 30 mm/s) completely eliminated the ringing again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastActivityDate="2021-01-06T12:24:03.600" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15227" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15230" CreationDate="2021-01-06T13:09:21.887" Score="2" ViewCount="2761" Body="&lt;p&gt;This question doesn't necessarily have one answer.  I'm looking for a build surface that doesn't tear up when removing the PETG print, but still holds the PETG down and keeps it from warping.  I am printing PETG with the z-height almost too high.  Higher causes the PETG not to stick and warp or even release during printing.  But, I still have trouble with PETG prints tearing my build surface.  I've tried PEI and black build surfaces that don't identify the material.  The build plate on my hot bed is glass.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15075" LastEditorUserId="15075" LastEditDate="2021-01-06T13:54:39.907" LastActivityDate="2021-01-06T16:04:22.597" Title="What is the best build surface for PETG?" Tags="|petg|build-surface|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15228" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-01-06T13:30:51.637" Score="4" ViewCount="4883" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was able to connect my terminal program (Putty) to my 3D Printer (Creality Ender 3 Pro) and was able to send G-code commands to my printer and it obeys.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now suppose I sent long command like&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;G29 ; auto bed leveling&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and it is still executing. Printer writes me&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;echo:busy: processing&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How to interrupt it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried to send &lt;code&gt;M0&lt;/code&gt;, but it didn't work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20403" LastActivityDate="2021-01-07T18:12:57.243" Title="How to interrupt long command with G-code?" Tags="|creality-ender-3|g-code|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15229" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15228" CreationDate="2021-01-06T13:39:27.167" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;3D Printers are pretty basic when it comes to g-code. There is no cycle start or cycle pause function on them. There is also no g-code command to interrupt the previous command. To get it to a halt you could turn it off. Or if the printer's firmware is configured to do so, you can touch one of the limit switches to get it to stop its movements.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12857" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2021-01-06T13:44:52.840" LastActivityDate="2021-01-06T13:44:52.840" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15230" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15227" CreationDate="2021-01-06T16:04:22.597" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Removable steel spring sheet with PEI textured coatings&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have been using textured PEI string sheet for most of my prints, just love it.&#xA;Prints attach so good but not hard to remove(with proper nozzole Z-offset).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the prints are small and seems hard to remove,heating up the bed helps a lot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Almost never used the smooth side, even with proper z-offset, it still damages the surface quite fast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's the link i bought before:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32986940303.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.538d6082oJJeV2&amp;amp;algo_pvid=ccd18793-4fca-4145-9db1-f3eb08bcc758&amp;amp;algo_expid=ccd18793-4fca-4145-9db1-f3eb08bcc758-2&amp;amp;btsid=0b86d81916099484894512885e7935&amp;amp;ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_,searchweb201603_&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Removal Spring Steel Sheet Pre-Applied PEI+Magnetic Base&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is my setup on a ender3pro:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3PY2z.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3PY2z.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;three layered setup&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/K7usS.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/K7usS.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;removable steel spring sheet&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19888" LastActivityDate="2021-01-06T16:04:22.597" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15231" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14958" CreationDate="2021-01-06T17:50:47.173" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In addition to @fred_dot_u remarks:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Decrease initial layer speed&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Try to print the initial layer at lower (very low speed). Start from 20 mm/s, move down even to 5-10 mm/s (e.g. just decrease speed% from the menu). I had many such issues when printing in too high speed (even directly on kapton tape): filament could not stick to the bed so quickly and rolled just after the nozzle - and slowing down almost always helped.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may also decrease height of first layer e.g. by 25-50 %, and try to increase &amp;quot;Initial Layer Line Width&amp;quot; (e.g. 120 % in Cura). Increase temperatures by 5-10 degrees also helps sometime.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this will not improve, then try to enhance adhesion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26170" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2021-01-06T20:10:14.820" LastActivityDate="2021-01-06T20:10:14.820" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15232" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15184" CreationDate="2021-01-06T18:21:22.113" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&amp;quot;Heater core&amp;quot; wires are &lt;strong&gt;not the same&lt;/strong&gt; as thermistor wires, are they?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Check if thermistor is properly connected?&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Reading -14 C in my case always pointed a disconnection of thermistor. (I didn't had a case of broken one so far.) In case of short it would probably show som max temperature (my guess, I dont want to try), but it is always good to check if wires are do not touch each other and are properly insulated?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Measure thermistor's resistance&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are able to use multimeter, then:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;disconnect thermistor from the printer board&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;set multimeter to resistance measurement (200k Ohms)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;connect thermistor and multimeter using wires - the ones having aligator clips would be the best&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;read resistance measurent&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My spare shows 97k Ohms in room conditions. So value should be high (you may refer to specs sheet of given type when in doubt).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Check that hotend is actually powered&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If thermistor is OK, then indeed the hotend powering may be broken. Ths definitely require skills and may introduce many risks to electronics and maybe even to your health - but if you are skilled enough, you may measure with voltmeter if there is correct voltage provided to the hotend. For example the MOSFET on the board may be broken (I already replaced one in the past for my heated bed).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26170" LastActivityDate="2021-01-06T18:21:22.113" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15233" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15228" CreationDate="2021-01-06T18:35:30.293" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;G-Code is processed as a queue. The FIFO behavior would disallow to execute any commands in parallel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However I am aware of - yet I didn't have opportunity to try - the emergency commands &lt;a href=&quot;https://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M112.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;M112&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;https://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M108.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;M108&lt;/a&gt; offered by Marlin. Marlin documentation says that EMERGENCY_PARSER and HOST_KEEPALIVE_FEATURE need to be enabled to handle these. So apparently there is a mechanism which may work in parallel (like the higher priority queue?).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These commands may be designed to break execution of some specific actions, e.g. M108 was described to break wait-for-temperature loop. You may want to give it a try.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;M0 also requires EMERGENCY_PARSER setting. And it may be bit different than you expect: it is described as pause &lt;strong&gt;after&lt;/strong&gt; the last movement. By contrast, emergency codes (M112 full stop) are designed to jump the internal command queue even when printing and execute immediately, when emergency parser is enabled (command queue would be lost, printer may shut down or user may be forced to reboot the printer).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26170" LastEditorUserId="26170" LastEditDate="2021-01-07T18:12:57.243" LastActivityDate="2021-01-07T18:12:57.243" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15234" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15161" CreationDate="2021-01-06T18:49:52.083" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;From my experience Auto Home procedure rearly leaves Z position at 0. By default Marlin raises it to 4 mm above the bed as far as I remember. The same might be with Z offset.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, could you please check &amp;quot;Initial Layer Height&amp;quot; in Cura?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could you check the machine's &amp;quot;Start G-Code&amp;quot; for presence of &lt;code&gt;G91&lt;/code&gt; code (this would be bed sign) and confirm it contains line &lt;code&gt;G90&lt;/code&gt;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are valuable basic tips in &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/15214/z-axis-issue-after-upgrade-from-stock-fw-to-marlin-2-0-7-2-on-ender-3-pro&quot;&gt;this discussion about printing too low&lt;/a&gt;, so you may want to go through these hints.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26170" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2022-11-11T08:15:00.377" LastActivityDate="2022-11-11T08:15:00.377" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15235" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15257" CreationDate="2021-01-06T18:58:40.763" Score="2" ViewCount="187" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have two otherwise-identical machines (called &amp;quot;Lefty&amp;quot; and &amp;quot;Righty&amp;quot;), so I have a baseline to compare.  I am running Marlin 2.0.7.2 on both machines.  They are Creality CR-10 printers with BTT SKR e3 Mini v1.2 boards, with Marlin I compiled myself.  Both machines are (as far as I know!) running the same exact firmware binary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When running &lt;strong&gt;the same G-code&lt;/strong&gt; on both printers, Lefty prints fine.  But, Righty fires the plastic through -- I need to set the flow rate to 50 % (!) to be correct.  I have checked the esteps, both are identical at 415, and this produces 39.5 mm of 40 mm commanded when bumped through 1 mm at a time via the extrusion menu, even on Righty.  The XY movement on both machines is 100 % correct.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Volumetric extrusion is disabled in the firmware on both  machines, and disabled in the slicer.  Both machines are running TMC2209 drivers, set to Spread Spectrum at 650 mA for the extruder.  Both machines are set to 1250 accel. The steppers are rated for 1 A, and they are not skipping steps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The machines were working side-by-side perfectly until I killed Righty's stepper driver with static, and replaced the board.  No other hardware was modified.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why do both machines behave the same with identical G-code, until extrusion moves?  Why does Righty try and extrude nearly double what it should be, only during printing, when Lefty works perfectly?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="263" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2021-01-06T20:59:40.680" LastActivityDate="2021-01-09T00:08:55.460" Title="e-steps are wrong only during printing moves" Tags="|firmware|extrusion|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15236" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15235" CreationDate="2021-01-06T19:29:31.657" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;For both machines did you compare extruder's (E) steps/mm setting in Marlin and possibly stored in EPROM (so check from the LCD in Configuration&amp;gt;Advanced settings) ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also stepper motors ... I believe they are exactly of the same type? There are 1.8 degree and 0.9 degree stepper motors on the market - so exactly doubled flow could be related to rotation. Also the stepper driver board may be configured for mcrostepping (&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.creality.com/blog-detail/10-v2-vs-cr-10-tmc2208-moto-driver-silence-print&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;e.g. full steps agains half steps&lt;/a&gt;), and this may equally influence the behavior. (I do not have CR-10, so I cannot advice in more details.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26170" LastActivityDate="2021-01-06T19:29:31.657" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15238" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-01-06T21:39:21.730" Score="1" ViewCount="672" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am using an Intamsys FunMat HT, which has a &amp;quot;ceramic glass&amp;quot; bed.  I'm not sure what &amp;quot;ceramic glass&amp;quot; means, the stuff behaves like borosilicate in the way it either chips or shatters depending on how I abuse it -- so lets just go with &amp;quot;borosilicate bed&amp;quot;.  It has a glossy side and a frosted side, and as I have permanently damaged the frosted side, I am trying to save the glossy side with a bed surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am trying to attach a sheet of Ultem PEI (&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.mcmaster.com/8685K43/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;McMaster link&lt;/a&gt;), using (&lt;a href=&quot;https://multimedia.3m.com/mws/media/1581295O/3m-adhesive-transfer-tape-468mp.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;3M 468MP&lt;/a&gt;) tape for printing Ultem 1010 filament.  The 3M tape is rated to 149 C for &amp;quot;days, weeks&amp;quot; (per the datasheet), and up to 200 C for &amp;quot;minutes, hours&amp;quot;.  My print bed runs at 160 C, and I was printing an Ultem part on it.  In under an hour, the adhesive had begun to delaminate under just the curling forces of the PEI sheet itself, save nothing of the part attached to it.  The adhesive itself seemed to be peeling apart.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bed had been baked in a convection oven at 100C for 12+ hours, and was prepped with soapy water followed by Windex and a dry-scrub with paper towels.  Is there a better transfer adhesive I can use that will offer strong bonding of PEI to a glass substrate, and survive prolonged exposure to 160C temperatures?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;note: I am not sure this is a duplicate of &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/3419/bad-pei-plate-adhesion-to-heated-bed&quot;&gt;this 3dpse post&lt;/a&gt;, because I think I cleaned the bed well enough, and in this case may just be exceeding the thermal capacity of the adhesive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="263" LastActivityDate="2021-01-06T21:39:21.730" Title="How to attach PEI sheet to glass for high temperature printing?" Tags="|heated-bed|adhesion|pei|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15241" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-01-07T13:47:25.537" Score="1" ViewCount="1716" Body="&lt;p&gt;From day one, I had issues with the bed unleveling all the time even if I hadn’t touched it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After watching more videos I bought springs and I was having fantastic prints every time. There was no need for levelling between prints - it worked perfectly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The day before yesterday I got an error warning &lt;code&gt;thermal runaway printer halted please reset&lt;/code&gt; so I did as the printer said and again tried the print and 20-30 mins in the exact same issue. I watched more YouTube videos and replaced the motherboard with an SKR E3 V2.0 mini with Marlin firmware installed on to it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After installing I went ahead and tried to test print (file on provided micro SD card) and 30 mins in I got a &lt;code&gt;thermal E1&lt;/code&gt; so I went ahead and watched more YouTube videos which suggested that I connect my printer to my PC via a USB (provided) and download Pronterface. I followed the instruction of typing &lt;code&gt;M303 V5 200&lt;/code&gt; into the command prompt and sent it to the printer which again halted the printer with &lt;code&gt;E1&lt;/code&gt; error code. I went over to the printer and unplugged the USB and waited while the printer was off before plugged the USB back in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After doing this I got a &lt;code&gt;TMC CONNECTION ERROR&lt;/code&gt; message on the printer. I followed some Reddit/Github posts that said:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Send command &lt;code&gt;M122&lt;/code&gt; to the printer, this should work, which it did not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As it stands at this moment this printer has gone from working perfectly to nothing at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26187" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-01-08T12:17:55.027" LastActivityDate="2021-01-08T12:17:55.027" Title="Ender 3 Pro thermal runaway" Tags="|creality-ender-3|thermal-runaway|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15242" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-01-07T13:58:07.187" Score="1" ViewCount="365" Body="&lt;p&gt;Will glue sticks, such as &lt;strong&gt;Elmer's All Purpose, Cra-Z-Art washable or Scotch Permanent&lt;/strong&gt;, form a barrier on a build surface to prevent PETG from damaging the surface?  While forming a barrier that holds the PETG print down, does it allow the PETG to separated after the print finishes, so that the build surface isn't damaged?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found in the description of a glue stick designated for 3D-printers: &amp;quot;these 3D printer glue sticks can be applied to remove 3D models much easier .. made of quality PVP material ... have nice adhesion to hot plate or hot bed, easy to remove the printing models ...&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm now using an Elmer's washable school glue stick (PVP).  It is working consistently at bed temperatures of 30°C and 80°C. It both holds the PETG print and releases the print without destroying the build surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15075" LastEditorUserId="15075" LastEditDate="2021-01-22T18:39:41.083" LastActivityDate="2021-01-22T18:39:41.083" Title="Will glue sticks form a barrier on a build surface to prevent PETG from damaging the surface?" Tags="|heated-bed|petg|build-surface|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15243" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-01-07T15:15:09.190" Score="0" ViewCount="988" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't even know where to begin with this one. From day one I have had nothing but problems. The only reason I still have it is because the store I bought it from is refusing to accept a return. So the issue is out of the box.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I levelled it [paper test] set the BLTouch to do its job [measuring] upon completion. I used Blender to export the default cube I then used Cura to scale, multiply and position a cube in each corner and the middle and set it to print, at this point I was hopeful that the BLTouch did its job but unfortunately it did not. The first layer didn't stick. I cancelled the print, re-levelled and tried again, this time a Mandalorian helmet, thinking that maybe the issue was that I was printing small with a 0.8 nozzle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;About 1/4&amp;quot; to the print and it failed again. This time a better first layer though but to my surprise, when I removed the failed print and hit auto home, it auto homed at about 18 cm (7 inches) off the bed and would not return.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After about 3 weeks I finally received a G-code to reset Z offset and thought I was some what back in business. I levelled the bed let the BLTouch do its thing and set it to print and again the first layer did not stick. Someone suggested that I check the BLTouch pin which looked like a cork screw. I replaced and repeated the level and BLTouch steps and, again, the same issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also tried pre-heating both nozzle and bed to respectively 210 °C and 80 °C and letting the BLTouch do its job and the same issue occurred.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have learned that natural oils from our fingers can cause the prints not to stick so I bought 100 % alcohol wipes and cleaned the bed, let it dry and repeated the process to be double sure that it was clean.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I air dusted the control box and extruder to remove any dust that may have occurred. I re-levelled and turned the BLTouch off and levelled again in the hope that it would work like a manual bed levelling and had no luck. At this point I'm figuring out that this BLTouch &amp;quot;Auto Levelling&amp;quot; should be called &amp;quot;Auto Unlevelling&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26187" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-01-08T08:58:57.873" LastActivityDate="2021-01-08T08:58:57.873" Title="Ender CR-10 Max with BLTouch won’t level" Tags="|creality-cr-10|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15244" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-01-07T19:27:45.963" Score="0" ViewCount="2204" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently added a &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B082VSB9VP&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Creality BLTouch v3.1&lt;/a&gt; to my Ender 3 which has a MKS Base v 1.6 motherboard and is running Marlin 2.0, but the Z-min never triggers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have made sure that the BLTouch unit lights up, uses the provided mount for the Ender 3 to get proper placement and is connected to the Z-min pins. Additionally, I have followed multiple youtube videos for connecting/setting the right parameters for the sensor. However, I haven't found the right combo.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have tried both BLTouch and Creality BLTouch, different pin number assignments (other than the standard Z-min pin), but the status doesn't change with or without the sensor pushed in. Looking for suggestions on settings to apply, or if anyone has had this issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See pictures below:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Connection to motherboard, tried using the other pin on the z min, and switching the black/white wires to see if they we're connecting wrong.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;BLTouch depressed which lights up as expected.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;BLTouch not illuminated when open.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3QutS.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Motherboard connections&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3QutS.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Motherboard connections&quot; title=&quot;Motherboard connections&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RU6aq.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;BLTouch depressed &amp;amp; illuminated&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RU6aq.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;BLTouch depressed &amp;amp; illuminated&quot; title=&quot;BLTouch depressed &amp;amp; illuminated&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yo4el.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;BLTouch open &amp;amp; not illuminated&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yo4el.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;BLTouch open &amp;amp; not illuminated&quot; title=&quot;BLTouch open &amp;amp; not illuminated&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21249" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2021-01-28T08:12:19.753" LastActivityDate="2021-01-28T09:04:13.553" Title="Z-min always open when using BLtouch and Marlin 2.0" Tags="|marlin|creality-ender-3|bltouch|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15245" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1334" CreationDate="2021-01-07T20:59:30.050" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;By far the easiest program to use is &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.tinkercad.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Tinkercad&lt;/a&gt; and it's free.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26195" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2021-02-12T12:00:30.447" LastActivityDate="2021-02-12T12:00:30.447" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15247" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15250" CreationDate="2021-01-07T23:24:09.293" Score="3" ViewCount="6014" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Y-axis belt just broke on my Ender 3 v2. I believe that it was over tensioned from the factory. When I initially assembled the printer, I noticed that the Y-axis tensioner was tightened almost all the way. The belt itself felt very stiff. The X-axis belt, which I installed upon assembly, didn't require a lot of tightening. I have ordered replacement belt material and clips to make new belts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the proper tension for both the X- and Y-axis belts?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23193" LastActivityDate="2021-03-09T14:59:51.683" Title="Proper belt tension for Ender 3 v2" Tags="|creality-ender-3|maintenance|belt|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15250" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15247" CreationDate="2021-01-08T00:53:42.003" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Generally, a timing belt is a complicated device and many things depend on its internal construction and materials (it may be damaged when bound in wrong direction, or when cut, and when overtighten of course, etc.). There is also physics and math applicable, based on &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mersenne%27s_laws&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Mersenne's laws&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some vendors provide calculators (online or as phone apps), which can calculate tension (force in Newtons or lbs) or the frequency (Hz). Therefore often the advice is to tension the belt until some (bass) sound is present - and professionals would tune belts with a sound tuner. There are also hints that belts should be possible to connect with fingers with slight or significant pressure (so not consistent). There is also visual guideline: when you slowly move the carriage with hand, the belt should remain straight. (Slowly, because belt is elastic and may behave different when moving carriage stronger and faster against friction of pulley.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would suggest to read &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.3dprintingspot.com/post/3d-printer-belt-tension-everything-that-you-need-to-know&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this article on 3dprintingspot.com&lt;/a&gt; for many practical suggestions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26170" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-02-07T08:13:53.637" LastActivityDate="2021-02-07T08:13:53.637" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15251" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-01-08T03:11:58.780" Score="1" ViewCount="3286" Body="&lt;p&gt;I need to replace one of the belts on my Ender 3 v2. I have ordered the timing belt and crimp ends to make a new belt but I am wondering what is the best way to make a new belt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was thinking of making one end of the belt with the crimp end, slotting it in place then running it through the pulleys and pathway until it reaches the other slot. Of course, I would adjust the tensioner to able to tighten the belt. Once I have a taut length, I would cut the belt and add the second crimp end. Finally, reassemble everything and tension the belt accordingly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Am I missing anything that I should do? Is there a better way to make a belt?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(I opened up one of the &amp;quot;crimps&amp;quot; and it looks to be a 7mm diameter tube that had the belt inserted into it. The crimp was flattened onto the belt then folded in half. The metal is harder than brass or copper. It took considerable effort to open up.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These are the original belt ends.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/28STW.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/28STW.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23193" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-01-08T17:47:32.023" LastActivityDate="2021-01-08T17:47:32.023" Title="How to make a replacement belt for Ender 3 v2?" Tags="|creality-ender-3|belt|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15254" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15222" CreationDate="2021-01-08T14:41:54.410" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The size of the stepper is usually determined by the forces it must overcome on the machine (i.e. inertia). Obtaining a powerful stepper motor and then using expensive linear guide rails with high tolerances great axial rigidity is wasteful unless you are trying to achieve something specific (which it seems you are not).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Find the cheapest NEMA17 motor you can from a reputable site and start there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most of the work has been done for machines of that size, so you don't need to calculate what's required, you can just look it up online. A 250W @ 24V supply is commonly used on printers of that size. The majority of that power is going into the heated bed. If, however, your environment is so cold that the bed never gets to temp, no matter how long you wait, then it will be time to upgrade that bed to an AC mains heated one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12857" LastActivityDate="2021-01-08T14:41:54.410" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15255" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-01-08T19:18:25.000" Score="1" ViewCount="345" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a &lt;code&gt;delta&lt;/code&gt; printer that I am trying to fine tune. I have printed a 20mm calibration cube and I get the following measurements:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;X: 20.5&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Y: 20.3&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Z: 20.0&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I calibrate my printer to improve the accuracy of x and y ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10422" LastActivityDate="2021-01-08T19:18:25.000" Title="How can I improve dimensional accuracy of a delta printer?" Tags="|marlin|calibration|delta|flsun-qq|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15256" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15298" CreationDate="2021-01-08T22:44:57.527" Score="0" ViewCount="2067" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an Ender 3 Pro that I installed a BLTouch sensor on. After I auto-home, I level bed and it deploys the probe in the right spot, but doesn't go down far enough, then goes back up and stops leveling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am using the wiring for BLTouch for Z homing on &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/bigtreetech/BIGTREETECH-SKR-mini-E3/tree/master/firmware/V1.2&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;SKR mini E3 v1.2&lt;/a&gt;. I am using Marlin Bugfix-2.0 with BLTouch and a few other things enabled.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1mWt4nngrnQvXDfSZE2WamGfrVnOf-52c?usp=sharing&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Configuration Files&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/45KrR.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Video of Problem&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26218" LastEditorUserId="4922" LastEditDate="2021-04-21T13:46:16.987" LastActivityDate="2021-04-21T13:46:16.987" Title="BLTouch not touching bed while leveling" Tags="|creality-ender-3|bltouch|bigtreetech|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15257" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15235" CreationDate="2021-01-09T00:08:55.460" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Annoyingly, this went away with a replacement board.  I don't have a better fix.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="263" LastActivityDate="2021-01-09T00:08:55.460" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15258" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-01-09T07:38:17.943" Score="2" ViewCount="690" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am making a DIY 3D printer based on the Prusa mini. So, I doubt whether RAMPS can control only 4 stepper motors as it has slots for 5 stepper motor slots and one will not be used in my case. If I can, in what order should I connect the drivers and also how will Marlin figure out which slot the extruder is connected? Sorry for the lack of knowledge if it is really obvious  :|&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26165" LastEditorUserId="19223" LastEditDate="2023-08-10T00:14:22.177" LastActivityDate="2023-08-10T00:14:22.177" Title="Will RAMPS able to control 4 stepper motors" Tags="|diy-3d-printer|stepper-driver|ramps|prusa-mini|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15259" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-01-09T08:20:08.267" Score="0" ViewCount="254" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am making a DIY 3D printer based on the Prusa MINI. I want to ask what smooth rod size is great for a printer with a 20x20x20 cm print volume. I am planning on using a 8 mm rod for the z-axis and 6 mm rods for the Y and X axis. I chose this as I am using a 2.5 kg.cm stepper motor for all the axis, so the X-axis needed to be light and the z-axis needed to be stronger and I chose 6 mm for the Y-axis as it is cheaper then other widths. I am worried if 6 mm is too thin to hold the hot-end (Which is a Bowden type) on the X-axis and a 20x20 cm glass plate on the Y-axis.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26165" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-01-09T13:42:51.660" LastActivityDate="2021-01-09T13:42:51.660" Title="Considering size of smooth rod" Tags="|diy-3d-printer|linear-motion|axis|prusa-mini|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15260" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15258" CreationDate="2021-01-09T09:57:56.987" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is no problem with using 4 motors instead of 5. The 5th slot is provided to enable use of a second extruders, but many people only have a single extruder printer and leave the 5th slot unused.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;how will Marlin figure out which slot the extruder is connected&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which stepper motor is in which slot is something you can configure in the firmware. There is no way for the firmware to &amp;quot;figure it out&amp;quot; without help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is quite involved to change it in the firmware, so it is best to follow the default placement. You can easily find &lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/wiki/File:Rampswire14.svg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;wiring diagrams for RAMPS&lt;/a&gt; (showing the default assignment of motors to slots) on various resources such as the RepRap wiki.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastActivityDate="2021-01-09T09:57:56.987" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15263" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15267" CreationDate="2021-01-09T14:39:26.273" Score="2" ViewCount="992" Body="&lt;p&gt;From my understanding, the power of heater must higher than heat dissipate to ambient air so the bed can heat up. The reason why a bed heats up too slowly is due to its heat capacity compared to heater power.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As the heater is a resistive load, I think we can put higher voltage to get more heating power.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The PCB heater has two parts: copper and laminate. The reason of failure is that the copper can come off the board due to high temperatures. In this case we can control temperature with firmware. The questions are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Will this method work?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What can go wrong or what is the risk of this method?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21079" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2021-01-10T04:10:54.067" LastActivityDate="2021-01-11T14:27:14.093" Title="Can we apply more voltage to a PCB heated bed to get faster heating?" Tags="|heated-bed|electronics|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15264" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15258" CreationDate="2021-01-09T15:17:35.313" Score="4" Body="&lt;h2&gt;RAMPS capabilities&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To be more speficic: RAMPS board (versions 1.3 - 1.6) offer possibility to connect &lt;strong&gt;5 stepper motor drivers&lt;/strong&gt; (on the board marked X, Y, Z, E0, E1) and &lt;strong&gt;6 stepper motors&lt;/strong&gt;, because the Z axis motor's connector is doubled (this is classic design of reprap printer). I could also see other RAMPS versions/clones (1.6+, 1.7 prototype) which have doubled connectors for X and Y axis motors - so allowing 8 motors in total.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Firmware configuration&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Marlin firmware allows to setup in &lt;em&gt;Configuration.h&lt;/em&gt; the motherboard with RAMPS configuration (extruder, fan, bed, etc.) and number of extruders. Look for lines:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#define MOTHERBOARD BOARD_RAMPS_14_EFB&#xA;&#xA;#define EXTRUDERS 1&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Firmware behavior&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;RAMPS wiring (as in diagram at Tom van der Zanden's response) is reflected in Marlin's file &lt;em&gt;pins_RAMPS.h&lt;/em&gt;. When &lt;code&gt;EXTRUDERS&lt;/code&gt; is set to &lt;code&gt;1&lt;/code&gt;, Marlin will use &lt;code&gt;E0_..._PIN&lt;/code&gt; setings from this file to communicate with proper stepper driver board (and the driver will communicate with the motor).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Marlin will enable steppers only when required (for example it will not refer to E1 in the basic configuration). Even when they got idle, they will remain powered for some longer period, defined in &lt;em&gt;Configuration_adv.h&lt;/em&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#define DEFAULT_STEPPER_DEACTIVE_TIME 120&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Important remarks&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Be careful installing drivers and cables. Double-check the driver board's orientation in slot of RAMPS. Solder cables properly, mount them tightly, fix to the frame, etc. Use ceramic or plastic screwdrivers for motor power regulation (I bought one which doesn't fit well, and sculpted my own from 2.85mm filament). It is important to remember to never unplug powered motors and drivers. (There is LCD menu option &amp;quot;Motion &amp;gt; Disable steppers&amp;quot;, but I always power off the machine to do something. Also, I had non-intentional accidents of broken wires causing unreliable work of extruder, and fortunately the board survived.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26170" LastActivityDate="2021-01-09T15:17:35.313" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15265" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6398" CreationDate="2021-01-09T15:55:04.133" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Late to the party but still...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The noise could be caused by the lubrication of the fan ...when you turn on the fan, the lubrication is seated down. As the fan spins, the lubrication gets all over the bearing thus centering the fan reducing the vibrations aka noise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26230" LastActivityDate="2021-01-09T15:55:04.133" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15266" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15263" CreationDate="2021-01-09T19:07:55.637" Score="0" Body="&lt;h1&gt;Not necessarily&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Potential differential U&lt;/strong&gt;, aka &lt;em&gt;Voltage&lt;/em&gt; of a part, is not to be ignored: a 24 V part needs only 24 V, not 36 V. A 12 V heartbeat is only safe for 12 V. There is a little tolerance for those measurements, but rule of thumb is about 10-15% of the rated voltage, so a 12 V bed should not be operated at more than 13.8 V for an extended period.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What actually facilitates heating is the &lt;strong&gt;Current I&lt;/strong&gt; aka &lt;em&gt;Amperage&lt;/em&gt; going through an item, as the formula for the Work P&lt;sub&gt;h&lt;/sub&gt; (dissipated in the shape of heat) of the electric resistance R is &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$P_h=R I^2$&lt;/span&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As long as you stay below or at the maximum &lt;strong&gt;rated Power P&lt;sub&gt;r&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; or &lt;em&gt;Wattage&lt;/em&gt; of the heating pad &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$P_r=U I$&lt;/span&gt;, you can increase the Current up to the limit of &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$\frac {P_r} U=I$&lt;/span&gt;. On the bench, with a regulated power supply, we can use that to get a perfect, maximum output as we want it. But the printer isn't a bench with an expensive PSU, we get only something akin to 12 V out of it, so... what to do?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;DON'T route in extra Power!&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yea, in DC circuits we can just add batteries behind one another to get twice the Voltage and push a circuit. Or we can put them in parallel, to sum up the current. But that doesn't work just as straightforward in AC circuits (phase shift between parts has to be taken into account). And routing in an extra pair of wires providing 12 V into an already 12 V part would get us something in the order of 24 V and fry the part. You'd accomplish nothing more than turn your heated bed into a fire hazard or a hunk of scrap!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So straight routing in another 12 V on top of what is rated? &lt;strong&gt;NOPE!&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Unhooking from the same PSU?&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some printers unhook the bed from the board's PSU, running a (differently) regulated power source. In the best case, it's set up to a Voltage/Current pair that maximizes the bed's heating. In such a setup, the whole heating power runs through a MOSFET that acts as a switch: A signal comes from the board to the MOSFET to allow current to flow. No signal on the Gate of the MOSFET leads to no current reaching the bed and no heating.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, that is a complicated setup - yet one of the only ways how a &amp;quot;mains voltage bed heater&amp;quot; can be done with a board that runs on 5 V. You &lt;em&gt;also&lt;/em&gt; will have to route the high power through a properly rated set of wires and connectors. These thicker wires will need proper strain relief as they need larger bending radii than what is installed before. In other words: &lt;strong&gt;you need to know what you do!&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Finetuning the power supply to the bed!&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In many printers, there's also a less invasive method to finetune the power curve of a bed. usually, there is a Potentiometer that is used to tune the output of the heating wires. Altering the potentiometer's setting with a screwdriver results in the output voltage shifting. &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$U=R I$&lt;/span&gt; does not change when flipping to AC but U and I became wave functions instead of constants. However, R of a long wire (such as a bed) does depend only on the frequency of the signal and not on either the current nor the driving potential, we can assume R to be constant. So, we know we want to maximize I². So what can we do easily?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A 24 V heatbed has something in the order of 2 Ω and accompanied mainboard in my Ender3 is - according to the labeling - good for about 13 A on the bed output, while a typical 12 V bed runs in the order of 1.2 Ω while such boards typically are limited to 10-11 A. &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$U= RI$&lt;/span&gt; to the resuce and... Voila: For the 11 A/1.2 Ω case we can tune the potentiometer to get just a smidge below 13.2 V - just at the 10 % point, for the 13 A/2 Ω case is &lt;em&gt;technically&lt;/em&gt; safe at 26 V - and still well within the 10% rule of thumb. However, if you have a 1.2 Ω bed and your borard only allows to draw 10 A, then you are limited to 12 V.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2021-01-11T01:01:52.020" LastActivityDate="2021-01-11T01:01:52.020" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15267" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15263" CreationDate="2021-01-09T19:35:26.253" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, this method will work. Some (LED) power supplies have a small potentiometer that you can use to slightly adjust the voltage. On a 12 V printer, adjusting the supply from 12 V to 14 V will give a 36% increase in power.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously there is a limit to how much you can increase the voltage. The voltage itself is unlikely to be the limiting factor, but there is a limit to how much heat the bed can dissipate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The PCB heater have 2-part copper and laminate. the reason of failire is the copper go off the board due to high temperature. In this case we can control temperature with firmware.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is true, but you have to consider that firmware is not infallible. If you increase the voltage (and thus wattage) of the bed a lot, you risk creating a dangerous situation if something fails. Ideally, you should choose the wattage of the bed such that it does not create a dangerous situation even if it is left on permanently by accident. In extreme cases (e.g. 220V to a nominally 12V heated bed) damage will be almost instantaneous before the firmware can intervene.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You also have to consider that increasing the voltage also increases the current. The wires need to be thick enough to handle the additional current. You also have to pay special attention to the MOSFET that is used to switch the bed; it also needs to be able to handle the current (and voltage, though this is usually less of a problem). Usually the integrated MOSFETs on 3D printer control boards can only handle about ~10 A which is what the bed might normally draw. Also pay attention to fuses and to screw terminal connections. They might not be able to handle the increased current either.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastActivityDate="2021-01-09T19:35:26.253" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15268" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-01-10T00:33:58.363" Score="1" ViewCount="1015" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am printing out models with holes, the printer makes circular patterns for each hole(which makes sense) but then it also has a string that attaches between each hole. This is unsightly and results in a non-uniform surface finish at the top/bottom of prints.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am wondering if the string is supposed to be there? I am using CURA on the coarse setting, my machine is direct drive with a 3mm retraction setting. I tried increasing retraction to 6mm but the same thing happened.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When looking at the g-code with a layer viewer it shows the strings but I am not sure if it is only representing tool path or not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;edit:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I just tried printing a retraction tower test and I haven't had any stringing, does this mean it's an issue with CURA?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;edit v2:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I looked at the layer path on CURA and these strings are not shown. I am at a loss as to what is going on since the retraction test showed it worked fine but every print with holes has the same problem. &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yvSX6.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25950" LastEditorUserId="25950" LastEditDate="2021-01-10T01:38:56.683" LastActivityDate="2021-01-10T01:38:56.683" Title="Stringing between holes" Tags="|print-quality|ultimaker-cura|retraction|stringing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15269" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8553" CreationDate="2021-01-10T01:20:03.633" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;For reference,I done tracing this module as shown.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ols3z.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ols3z.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/r8ao6.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/r8ao6.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;So you can use isolated power supply for load.&#xA;Also you can use up to 24V without any problem.&#xA;Edit:&#xA;This module still work with higher voltage up to 24V. But according to question. Using higher voltage supply more than rated is same as my question &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/15263/can-we-apply-more-voltage-to-a-pcb-heated-bed-to-get-faster-heating&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&#xA;For summary. Adding more voltage to resistive load results to higher current flow. Recheck your wire and connectors for current rate so you will know the limit of voltage you can go with.&#xA;One more thing, mosfet can fail like short circuit. At this situation the temperature of bed cannot be controlled.&#xA;At normal voltage rate even we left the bed connected to power supply the temperature will rising to about 100C if you add more voltage it will go higher than that can the heated bed will broken or burned or start to fires&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21079" LastEditorUserId="21079" LastEditDate="2021-01-15T00:43:35.627" LastActivityDate="2021-01-15T00:43:35.627" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15270" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15268" CreationDate="2021-01-10T01:33:22.720" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Consider that the string you are seeing is the nozzle wiping across the surface, especially if you are not getting stringing via your test part. As you suggest, it's not unlikely that the layer viewer is showing movement and not extrusion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check your &lt;a href=&quot;https://support.ultimaker.com/hc/en-us/articles/360012611299-Travel-settings&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;z-hop settings&lt;/a&gt; as well as the other references in the linked page. Z-hop will drop the bed by the set amount when traveling with retraction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uuZbf.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uuZbf.png&quot; alt=&quot;z-hop graphic&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other useful reference is combing, which limits the travel of the nozzle to remain within the boundaries of the print and also removes the requirement of retraction. It may leave nozzle traces, although that reference is not in the linked page.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UhZ36.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UhZ36.png&quot; alt=&quot;combing graphic image&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All images attributed to linked page.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastActivityDate="2021-01-10T01:33:22.720" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15274" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15289" CreationDate="2021-01-10T22:31:08.937" Score="2" ViewCount="8620" Body="&lt;p&gt;I first want to say &lt;strong&gt;thank you&lt;/strong&gt; for taking the time to read this. I've been trying to print out some parts for another project of mine. These parts use up around 70% of the bed so they are fairly large, unlike the smaller trinkets and things I normally print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I have yet been able to print one of these larger parts without any layer shifting. The part I've been trying to print is a lid to the bottom of a case. It's square, with rounded corners, about 160mm x 160mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It will print the first layer without shifting most of the time. However, upon starting the second layer it will almost have at least one layer shift. I have tried a number of things to remedy this, which I will list further down this post.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The layer shifting seems to be unrelated to jerk, acceleration, bed shifting, and z offset at the very least. There is an audible clunk sound that can be heard when it does this. In the image I've linked, you can see the correct path of the print head through the green arrows. However, upon a layer shift, it follows the path of the red arrows. It never shifts during a direction change, only when it is following a straight path. It's almost as if one of the motors gives up for a second. I am aware the print is under extruded, this is one of my trials hoping it was merely the nozzle clipping against the print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ltqzA.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ltqzA.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Allow me to share with you my setup:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I have an Ender 3 V2, with the stock mainboard, stock glass bed, and stock hotend.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I've replaced the extruder assembly with an all-metal one from Creality.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I have the stiffer bed springs. As well as the better PTFE tube fittings and Capricorn tubes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I've put together a cooling pack on Thingiverse. &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4644985&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4644985&lt;/a&gt; The mainboard and hotend fans were replaced with Noctua performance fans that I'll talk more about later.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The hotend assembly is a hero me gen 5 with dual 4010 fans and a BLTouch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I'm using Smith3D's 5x5 high-speed firmware (Previously the 4x4 high speed).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now let me share my tried solutions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I firstly, disassembled the printer, checking all belt teeth and motor gears (which are pressed onto their shafts without a grub screw). Afterward, I readjusted all eccentric nuts to get the perfect amount of tension while maintaining smooth operation on both X and Y axes. I've used brake cleaner and dish soap to remove the grease on the Z-axis lead screw and replaced it with WD-40 dry lubricant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Continuing, I've releveled the bed and checked all axis operation to ensure it was smooth and without any bumps, hitches, or anything of the sort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I tightened all the frame screws, hotend screws, fan screws, grub screws. Nothing moves even a millimeter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The belts were tensioned so that they can be strummed like a guitar string when I move either the hotend or bed to its end stop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I checked my aftermarket fans to ensure they are working. The mainboard and hotend fan run nonstop at their optimal 12V. The PSU fan turns on and off as it needs to cool the PSU...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The cables are nicely managed in the mainboard compartment and I'm sure that the larger fans provide it plenty of airflow. Not to mention the printer was raised by the use of squash-ball feet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I have slowed my print speed from 75mm/s to 60mm/s with this print. This means a 30mm/s inner/outer wall along with 60mm/s infill speed and 150mm/s travel speed. Acceleration and jerk are at their defaults: 500mm/s^2 and 10mm/s.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I've adjusted my Z offset so that it slightly under extrudes to prevent the filament from bunching up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I've calibrated my e steps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I've formatted the SD card and changed my firmware from Smith 3D's 4x4 high speed to 5x5 high speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I've updated Cura to the latest version 4.8 and ensured my hero me home offset is correct.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I've tried moving the model to different corners in Cura and ensured the software's jerk and acceleration control are disabled.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I've checked the bed movement with its clips, it doesn't move easily and both clips have very good tension.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I've checked the stepper driver voltages (I did not change them). E: 1.34V Z: 1.16V Y: 0.99V X: 1.15V.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I have Z hop enabled with a 0.2mm hop, no issues or noises when it moves across the print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I've purchased a filament dry-box from SUNLU along with a new spool of SUNLU black filament. The dry box has Capricorn PTFE tubing that leads the filament straight into the extruder. There is very little friction inside the tube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I've slightly tightened the tension on the extruder although I didn't have problems with it skipping.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Again, I'd like to reiterate, nothing is loose on this printer, it doesn't skip when it rapidly changes directions, only when following either a straight or diagonal line. The printer movement is very smooth and near-silent with all of my modifications. It's frustrating to me that I can't solve this problem. I feel like the printer has a mind of its own. I have begun to suspect either the mainboard or something else hardware related is amiss. However, I have chosen not to mess with it until posting this. If you've read through this, &lt;strong&gt;I thank you for your patience and time reading it&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any advice or possible causes to this problem are welcomed. I am at a complete loss and am desperate for a solution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26246" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2021-01-11T01:06:00.143" LastActivityDate="2021-03-29T06:34:41.900" Title="Ender 3 V2 Layer Shifting, No Apparent Reason, Desperate" Tags="|print-quality|creality-ender-3|layer-shifting|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15277" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12159" CreationDate="2021-01-10T22:59:30.337" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;From &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/12159/bltouch-error-marlin-2-x-on-skr-1-3#comment22355_12159&quot;&gt;a comment&lt;/a&gt; can be read that the OP found the solution:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;it's fixed : it's because I didn't level the bed once after flashing the firmware, once it has been done the error is no more&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2021-01-10T22:59:30.337" CommentCount="2" CommunityOwnedDate="2021-01-10T22:59:30.337" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15278" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15274" CreationDate="2021-01-11T00:09:24.770" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You mentioned a noticeable 'clunk' when it shifts, are you sure it isn't a physical obstruction? You said you checked that all axis run smoothly but are you sure you checked the full extents of the printable area?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Watch carefully when the issue happens, are any of the cables getting snagged on the machine or surrounding workspace? Check under the bed in particular, I've noticed on my Ender 3 V2 the bed will sometimes bump into part of the base if the leveling screws are tightened too far.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26249" LastActivityDate="2021-01-11T00:09:24.770" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15279" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-01-11T06:25:39.120" Score="0" ViewCount="71" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am making myself a DIY 3D printer on a budget. And I don't know how to prototype it or design it. Like, I have already planned the parts. But, I don't yet have planned the structure or how parts should go together. I tried using a CAD software, but learning one to reach a skill that is needed will take a long time. I want to know how others design their printers and learn from that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26165" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2021-01-11T06:40:05.767" LastActivityDate="2021-01-11T09:06:42.997" Title="How to design a DIY printer" Tags="|diy-3d-printer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15280" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15279" CreationDate="2021-01-11T07:15:51.563" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are lots of ways from mere specifications to designs. Most follow several of the principles below, but designing a printer is &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; a light undertaking. it's HUGE.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Copy and adapt&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The most easy way is to take a known design, for example from the RepRap wiki, and copy it verbatim. But it can easily undergo some adaptions, like different hotends or bed sizes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Paper sketch &amp;amp; notes&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Writing down the specs of some parts is very important to make sure these stay consistent. Paper is also the tool of choice for initial sketches or even finished designs to guide building the actual parts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;CAD&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;CAD is an almost indispensable tool to map out the placement of parts and combine them. Or later design parts to print. A CAD design doesn't need to be detailed, it can use stand in rough outlines. Only where parts need to be custom-made, details are essential.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Prototype&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All projects go through prototyping when groups of parts are built and tested on their own and combined piece by piece. Also, this step is where you finalize the firmware.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2021-01-11T09:06:42.997" LastActivityDate="2021-01-11T09:06:42.997" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15281" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15283" CreationDate="2021-01-11T09:34:20.120" Score="1" ViewCount="4867" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm struggling with bed adhesion for nylon on a glass bed (122 °C measured) in an enclosed chamber (45 °C near the front, likely more on top of the print bed). I used a glue stick to enhance adhesion, but after around 20 minutes the print comes off the bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.123-3d.nl/123inkt-lijmstift-medium-21-grams-i1326-t7445.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;no-brand glue stick&lt;/a&gt; and a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.123-3d.nl/Pritt-stick-medium-22-gram-i1329-t7445.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Pritt glue stick&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now I wonder whether they are suitable for the purpose, because nylon should really be printable in these conditions. Maybe the glue cannot hold those 100+ °C temperatures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How to find out whether a glue stick is PVA-based and suitable for nylon (or polycarbonate, ABS) printing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2338" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-01-13T13:49:12.720" LastActivityDate="2023-10-20T17:18:20.313" Title="Are all glue sticks PVA-based? How to find out?" Tags="|adhesion|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15282" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15281" CreationDate="2021-01-11T12:30:22.530" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not all glue sticks work! The working ingredient of a glue stick is &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Polyvinylpyrrolidone&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Polyvinylpyrrolidone&lt;/a&gt;; a more elaborate answer is found &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/11183/&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; on question: &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11182/why-does-hairspray-work-as-an-adhesive-for-abs/&quot;&gt;&amp;quot;Why does hairspray work as an adhesive for ABS?&amp;quot;&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are very good alternatives to glue sticks and hair spray nowadays. Specific adhesion sprays exist for several years now (e.g. Dimafix, 3DLAC, Magigoo for PA, Plasticz, PrintaFix, Dr.Mat, etc.; my personal experience is with the first 2 mentioned, both work for nylon: Dimafix has more tack at higher temperatures &amp;gt; 80 °C, up to 80 °C 3DLAC works perfect).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;E.g. Dimafix has a higher temperature application range than e.g. 3DLAC. From the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.dima3d.com/en/home/dimafix/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;manufacturer&lt;/a&gt; can be seen that:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZBZny.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZBZny.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;em&gt;Source: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.dima3d.com/en/home/dimafix/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.dima3d.com/en/home/dimafix/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This image shows that the spray has its maximum tack/adhesion at about 120 °C and holds this adhesion level at least up to about 145 °C according to the image.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, not all glues get stronger with temperature! PVA (also called PVAc) glues soften very quickly, making them good only at low temperature. See &amp;quot;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bioresources.cnr.ncsu.edu/resources/influence-of-temperature-on-the-strength-of-bonded-joints/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Influence of temperature on the strength of bonded joints&lt;/a&gt;&amp;quot; which discloses this graph for PVAc Rhenocoll 3W, 4B Plus:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KB1lM.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KB1lM.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-01-13T13:29:46.683" LastActivityDate="2021-01-13T13:29:46.683" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15283" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15281" CreationDate="2021-01-11T13:59:26.523" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Elmer's apparently doesn't reveal its glue stick contents.  Elmer's has at least four different glue sticks without giving the difference in composition.  You can find glue sticks that specify use for 3D printers.  They contain PVP.  Many wood glues have PVA. PVA may be labeled also as PVAc, or as &amp;quot;VA/crotonates/vinyl neodecanoate copolymer&amp;quot; (for example in hairsprays).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It looks like you will need to search patents to find contents of glue sticks.  Her are examples.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to Elmer's patent 6268413, Wood Glue Sticks have PVA, but I haven't seen such a thing:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This Elmer's patent has PVA: High-strength adhesive paste and dispenser&#xA;Patent number: 6268413&#xA;Abstract: The present invention includes a high strength adhesive and includes a dispenser containing a high strength adhesive. The invention is an adhesive composition comprising: (a) water present in an amount of from about 40 percent to about 70 percent by weight; (b) polyvinyl acetate present in an amount of about 15 percent to about 35 percent by weight; (c) dextrin present in an amount from about 5 percent to about 35 percent by weight; and (d) starch present in an amount from about 0 percent to about 5 percent by weight; the adhesive having at least 30% by weight solids, having a paste-like consistency, and having a bond strength greater than about 2000 p.s.i. as measured by ASTM D-905. The adhesive of the present invention has a very workable consistency that is very much like room-temperature butter or shortening used in cooking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Elmer's patent with PVP: HIGH-STRENGTH GLUE STICK FORMULATION, Publication number: 20110301260, includes water; a defoamer; a bactericide; an oil; polyvinylpyrrolidone; a plurality of polyurethane dispersions; dipropylene glycol n-butyl ether; sodium stearate; casein; sodium hydroxide; and at least one adhesion promoter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another Elmer's patent has PVP: Adhesive applicator crayon&#xA;Patent number: 6066689&#xA;Abstract: Adhesive compositions exhibiting fast cure time in solid form, e.g. in the form of an applicator crayon or glue stick. The adhesive exhibiting polymer of the composition is based on a mixture of critical amounts of high molecular weight polyvinylpyrrolidone polymer, with a lower molecular weight polyvinylpyrrolidone polymer, with water, an organic solvent, and a salt of a long-claim fatty acid, e.g. sodium stearate. Color indicators and other optional ingredients, e.g. mildewcide, can be included.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15075" LastEditorUserId="2338" LastEditDate="2021-01-13T09:39:07.697" LastActivityDate="2021-01-13T09:39:07.697" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15284" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15263" CreationDate="2021-01-11T14:27:14.093" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can add a boost converter to the bed's power supply. Assuming that you are using an external MOSFET to control the bed (and you should). Verify what the MOSFET's max voltage rating is, then obtain a boost converter and configure it to give a voltage that is 10% less than the max. I once used this technique when driving a 24V hot end heater using a 12V power supply. Be forewarned, however, the boost converter I was using exploded during use one day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3gAB6.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3gAB6.png&quot; alt=&quot;Commerical, inexpensive boost converter on Amazon&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or you could get an additional higher voltage PSU and use that as the bed's heater. They make them up to 80V I think now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12857" LastActivityDate="2021-01-11T14:27:14.093" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15285" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15131" CreationDate="2021-01-11T16:16:11.627" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Heating it proved futile in my case (I didn't have a blowtorch either), I was able to get the gear off by using a Dremel, I also flattened a small side for the screw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, to my extreme frustration, I found out that the actual height of the shaft is not long enough to reach the dual extruder's filament hole and thus had to order another motor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26260" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2021-01-12T11:59:20.010" LastActivityDate="2021-01-12T11:59:20.010" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15286" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15288" CreationDate="2021-01-11T18:43:41.373" Score="0" ViewCount="322" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hopefully this isn't against the rules as it may fall under &amp;quot;opinion&amp;quot; more than a concrete answer, but I'll ask anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I live near Boston and it gets cold here.  My Ender 3 Pro is out in a detached garage with no heat and I'm pretty sure the garage getting down to about -12 °C (10 °F) has ruined a few prints for me. Also I'd love to print in ABS at home as well and I think I'd need an enclosure for that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, the printer technically already has an enclosure. It's in a box made out of plywood with some clear acrylic doors on the front, but I think the box itself has too much extra room and doesn't retain heat well enough (thin plywood?).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So my question is, for anyone with experience printing in cold environments, what are some cheap/easy ways to keep the enclosure warm, preferably as safe as possible since I can't always watch the print.  I have a small space heater in the garage but I turned it off last night because I wasn't sure how safe it'd be overnight and didn't want to start a fire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thoughts on stuff like &amp;quot;reflectix&amp;quot; liners for the enclosure that would help retain heat, small heaters, IR lamps, etc...?  All preferably on the cheap side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15186" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-01-11T22:57:51.350" LastActivityDate="2021-01-12T13:44:25.187" Title="Safe, cheap, heated enclosure solution for New England garage" Tags="|heat-management|enclosure|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15287" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-01-11T21:39:37.733" Score="0" ViewCount="360" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Xvico X1 printer which I had previously installed an SKR 1.3 on running Marlin, which was functioning normally.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For Christmas I got a BLTouch, a heated bed and a Raspberry Pi for it, so I also installed a new 24 volt Meanwell PSU to power it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I believe I have correctly installed and updated the firmware for the BLTouch and the heated bed. However, I am having confusing results for my hotend. I successfully ran a PID, though the values seemed suspiciously high (Kp 17.87, Ki 1.24, Kd 64.41).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So my next step was to run a test print. The temperature for the print was set for 200 °C, but after the bed heated, the hotend quickly got to 200 °C and continued to heat until it hit the thermal runaway limit and shut off. I repeated this 3 times, then decided to call it a night and unplugged the machine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The next time I tried it I had a different result, instead of heating quickly, when the print was started the temperature dropped from 22 °C (room temp) to 8 °C (error?). I have seen that similar errors are sometimes caused by incorrect heater cartridge, but I changed the 12 V cartridge I had installed to a 24 V cartridge when I changed the PSU. I don't really think it's a hardware issue, but I also feel like the firmware is correct so any help would be greatly appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have attached a picture which shows an initial drop (in response to a PLA preheat command), then a spike in temperature (hotend set to 200 °C, I had to manually stop it) then I ran a PID autotune, which completed normally, and received the values listed previously.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xKOAq.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Graph - Temperature vs. Time&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xKOAq.png&quot; alt=&quot;Graph - Temperature vs. Time&quot; title=&quot;Graph - Temperature vs. Time&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26264" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2021-01-12T11:58:35.187" LastActivityDate="2021-01-12T11:58:35.187" Title="Hotend functioning inconsistently. PID completed normally, heating to quickly or not at all on print start up" Tags="|marlin|hotend|heat-management|skr-v1.3|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15288" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15286" CreationDate="2021-01-12T00:14:55.820" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The easiest step would be to add some isolation on the outside of the box. If you have space inside, there might be a good spot to store some non-flammable insulation, for example rock or glassfiber wool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A different material might also be possible - firebrick is not only non-flammable but also a very good insulator! about 2-3 inches of firebrick can contain the heat produced by a tempering oven while the outside is cool enough to be safe to touch with gloves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, you should install an extra thermosensor for the chamber temperature - and make sure that the printer enters print halt mode once the temperature in the chamber gets above a critical temperature to try to mitigate fire risks and possibly start a chamber-cooling protocol - which might include aborting the print or activating coolers that rapidly cool down the chamber.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you pretty much are going heated chamber, you might find a spot when you might want to use a flexible hose to pull non-chamber air to supply the parts cooling fan.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, possibly relocate as much of the electronics to a compartment separate from the printer's heat chamber to ensure the electronics don't get cooked and can be supplied with cooler air.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2021-01-12T13:44:25.187" LastActivityDate="2021-01-12T13:44:25.187" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15289" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15274" CreationDate="2021-01-12T02:19:50.273" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;SOLUTION&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unscrewing the mainboard enclosure and tilting it to allow better airflow like in the picture shown below. This is the same issue as many others.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SeBgx.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SeBgx.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://forums.creality3dofficial.com/community/ender-3-v2/layer-shift-ender-3-v2/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://forums.creality3dofficial.com/community/ender-3-v2/layer-shift-ender-3-v2/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.reddit.com/r/ender3v2/comments/kn8u72/layer_shift_investigation_data_and_video/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.reddit.com/r/ender3v2/comments/kn8u72/layer_shift_investigation_data_and_video/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I appreciate the assistance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26246" LastActivityDate="2021-01-12T02:19:50.273" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15290" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8616" CreationDate="2021-01-12T05:52:41.093" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just order a &lt;a href=&quot;https://amzn.to/2LIxkxb&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Watt Electricity Usage Monitor&lt;/a&gt; or a similar model and plug it into the wall, or better, a 3-prong extension cord, then plug your 3D printer into it, and you'll get all the power consumption detail you'll need. Show your Mom, and she'll see what to charge you, if she's so inclined. To impress her, offer to pay without her asking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26267" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-01-12T09:13:10.363" LastActivityDate="2021-01-12T09:13:10.363" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15294" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-01-12T14:28:14.557" Score="1" ViewCount="62" Body="&lt;p&gt;Heated chambers, especially homebrew ones, might pose a fire risk if the printer inside has a really bad day and its TRP is defective or - oh horror - deactivated. We are dealing with a class A fire if it ever starts to smolder, so water is out. Many other firefighting measures - like an ABC extinguisher might destroy the printer. On a ferry, I saw signs that they had &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fireprotection.org.nz/information-on/what-is-halon-and-how-does-it-work&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Halon&lt;/a&gt; firefighting in the machine room. But that stuff is near unavailable, the more fancy replacements expensive and a typical, pre made deployment system costs thousands.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a way how one might set up a firefighting solution oneselves, using somewhat readily available parts?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastActivityDate="2021-01-12T20:22:16.630" Title="Setup for a firefighting solution inside a heated chamber that doesn't destroy the printer?" Tags="|safety|chamber|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15295" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15294" CreationDate="2021-01-12T14:28:14.557" Score="2" Body="&lt;h1&gt;Firefighting Agent&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One Halon alternative is the rather simple and cheap gas CO&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt;. It is neither toxic nor hard to get: &amp;quot;60 liter&amp;quot; water-carbonation bottles are readily available over the counter to create soda water and contain some 200-300 liters CO&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatives are Argon and Nitrogen, but those don't come in these small canisters and dissipate more quickly, but they also need the chamber to be gas-sealed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Because non-flammable gases act by smothering the flames, it is vital that rooms in which such a gas firefighting system is installed are not rooms in which people are usually, and in case of a workshop, it might be required to disarm the automatic trigger while the door is opened!&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Deployment System&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Such a soda water machine also would deliver the most crucial parts of a deployment system: the valve. To activate it, a solenoid can be used - once current flows through the solenoid, the valve is pushed open and the CO&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt; will shoot out into tubing or piping leading into the build chamber.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The gas canister should under no circumstances be inside the build chamber's heated compartment but somewhat close.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Release System&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now we need a way to trigger the solenoid. I propose to use at least some redundancy in construction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Manual Mechanical Override. This can be as simple as a lever that bypasses the solenoid and activates the valve manually. Also useful for functionality tests.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Manual Electric Override. Using a 9V block battery and some sort of latching switch/button. The solenoid is directly powered from the &amp;quot;reserve&amp;quot; battery now.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Automatic via a microcontroller. Using a small programmable chip, one could use a spare thermosensor inside the chamber to detect temperatures of dangerous levels. As a direct response, it triggers the solenoid to release the gas into the chamber and continue to do so for at least long enough to fully flush the chamber, even as the temperature drops with the injected firefighting agent. It might be best to &lt;em&gt;also&lt;/em&gt; trigger an alarm, for example, a repurposed doorbell. If one goes for such a solution, an output of the current chamber temperature could also be integrated, though I strongly discourage from integrating the fire suppression as a part of the printer board!&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Automatic via a thermal switch. More simple in design, a Normally Open Thermostat Switch could be used instead of a whole microcontroller. Such a switch could use the same power source as a manual electric override switch, and indeed, be mounted parallel to the same switch. The downside of a hard-wired thermostat switch is, that it sets a hardwired maximum chamber temperature. It'd be best to choose a switch with a reset-temperature that is as far from the trigger temperature as possible to ensure that the chamber contains as little O&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt; as possible. The availability of switch types here dictates the voltage of the system.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;What about the chamber heat control?&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once the firefighting system engages, the chamber should no longer get access to fresh air. This could possibly be made by having a different solenoid push a shutter in front of the air intakes and/or by de-powering any chamber cooling fans.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Door Safety&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A magnetic switch in the door should cut power to the solenoid, ensuring that only the mechanical manual override can fire the system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2021-01-12T20:22:16.630" LastActivityDate="2021-01-12T20:22:16.630" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15296" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-01-12T14:54:07.967" Score="1" ViewCount="501" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am making a DIY 3D printer on a budget. So, I came across a kit with RAMPS 1.4 with an Arduino Uno which is really a great price. But, I don't know if the RAMPS board and the stepper driver (DRV8825) which it supplies, can be used to make a 3D printer. And also will it come with average quality parts as the total amount of that kit is 2999 rupees or 40 dollars. Here is a picture if needed:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/szcgy.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/szcgy.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Kit picture&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26165" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-01-12T19:12:45.897" LastActivityDate="2021-01-13T13:45:32.150" Title="Can RAMPS 1.4 be used for a 3D printer?" Tags="|diy-3d-printer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15297" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15223" CreationDate="2021-01-12T16:08:00.400" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I contacted the manufacturers of curing stations directly and got some interesting feedback. Not all of them were keen on sharing their information, but two responded:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.elegoo.com/products/elegoo-mercury-plus-2-in-1-washing-and-curing-machine&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Elegoo&lt;/a&gt; is using &lt;strong&gt;Polypropylene&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.creality.com/goods-detail/creality-uw-01-washing-curing-machine&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Creality&lt;/a&gt; is using &lt;strong&gt;polycarbonate&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am sure they are using some additional UV blocking on the plastics with a coating, but thats all I could find out.&#xA;Thanks to @Greenonline for pointing me in the right direction!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26178" LastActivityDate="2021-01-12T16:08:00.400" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15298" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15256" CreationDate="2021-01-12T17:58:33.003" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think I fixed everything. What I did is I used this guide &amp;lt;youtu.be/y_1Kg45APko&amp;gt; which was a guide by makes'n'breaks on setting the probe z-offset using pronterface and then reverted to the original firmware that was on this page&amp;lt;github.com/bigtreetech/BIGTREETECH-SKR-mini-E3/tree/master/…&amp;gt; Which was the marlin firmware for bltouch for z homing for my mainboard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26218" LastActivityDate="2021-01-12T17:58:33.003" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15299" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15296" CreationDate="2021-01-12T19:28:57.327" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;To answer your question, yes, RAMPS 1.4 can be used for a 3D printer, but note that it is an outdated platform.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;But...&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the supplied image can be concluded that the seller doesn't have a clue what is being sold in the webshop ( e.g. incorrect naming for the shield, 3 stepper motors and 4 stepper drivers?!?).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is &lt;strong&gt;not&lt;/strong&gt; a RAMPS set (RAMPS is a shield for an Arduino Mega 2560) but a CNC shield set. An Arduino Uno isn't typically the hardware used for a 3D printer (better suited for laser cutter), but you could use it. Also RAMPS itself is already outdated, there are other options for a bit more money.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;With a limited budget and limiting the time and frustration spent on building your own first printer from scratch it might be more economical to buy a 3D printer kit; a kit has all the parts for frame and electronics to get started relatively quick. These kits are documented, have upgrades and have proven to work and can be used to build a better 3D printer (that is exactly what I did). Note that building a printer yourself is usually not more economical, large kit manufacturers have discounts on buying parts in bulk which you don't have. Unless you are building a printer from wood/MDF and have a lot of parts readily available a kit may be a more economical solution.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-01-13T13:45:32.150" LastActivityDate="2021-01-13T13:45:32.150" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15300" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13997" CreationDate="2021-01-12T19:53:39.450" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;File name is too long, I had the same issue, shortened the file name and now printing perfect&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26274" LastActivityDate="2021-01-12T19:53:39.450" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15301" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12056" CreationDate="2021-01-12T21:49:22.053" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I managed to figure it out and it turns out the vertical guide screws had a lot of grease/oil build up near the bottom which was impeding the X axis motor from properly moving the nozzle vertically when instructed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After removing both guide rods and cleaning with degreasing fluid, the troublesome problem is no more!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20189" LastActivityDate="2021-01-12T21:49:22.053" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15303" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-01-13T14:44:14.957" Score="1" ViewCount="663" Body="&lt;p&gt;From what I've seen, you can take a typical extruder heater, apply the designated supply voltage without temperature control, and as long as the heater isn't contacting something with a flashpoint below the temperature the heater reaches, the heater will not catch on fire.  Thus, unless one catches the filament on fire, it seems that thermal runaway of the extruder heater wouldn't normally start a fire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure what would happen if someone installed wrong components, such as a 12V heater to a 24V supply. What are situations that could cause a 3D print to catch fire?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15075" LastActivityDate="2021-01-13T22:39:03.057" Title="What can cause a 3D printer to catch on fire?" Tags="|safety|thermal-runaway|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15304" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15303" CreationDate="2021-01-13T15:29:38.330" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;A normal hotend will not melt or cause fires, usually, see first video. However, if the power regulating unit fails as well and higher voltage is supplied (19 V on 12 V cartridge are enough) it can happen, see second video.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fires are more likely caused by overheating wires, especially where joints are presents.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hotend runaway does not cause fires from the hotend itself, but it could cause fire related to its wiring. Also, the uncontrolled temperature may make the hot end fan fail, worsening the situation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Issues canbe caused also by a runaway on the bed and overheating MOSFETs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/rPvKBRpU0bo?start=0&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/qVjWg2vuWzk?start=0&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2338" LastActivityDate="2021-01-13T15:29:38.330" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15305" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15303" CreationDate="2021-01-13T15:31:34.413" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;In short:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The control board does not have thermal runaway installed&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The heated bed connectors are loose and begin to heat up until the wires catch fire&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The power supply or it's connectors begin to heat up until they catch fire&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The modifications that you made to your printer were not well thought out resulting in a capacitor to explode (raises hand; that's happened to me.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12857" LastActivityDate="2021-01-13T15:31:34.413" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15306" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7424" CreationDate="2021-01-13T15:43:38.233" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;That above is not entirely true. Maybe in a perfect world but we are far away from that. Just this week I tested it with an All-Metal MicroSwiss.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Calibrated with PETG at 240 °C. Result E116&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Calibrated with PLA at 180 °C. Result E96...&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A huge deviation one can't control with the flow. The more smart way to calibrate the extruder would be to remove the heating and nozzle out of the equation. Just run the filament dry out of the end of the PTFE tube with the same calculation method. Unfortunately this is still unreliable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26292" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2021-01-13T17:14:33.333" LastActivityDate="2021-01-13T17:14:33.333" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15307" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-01-13T17:03:31.280" Score="3" ViewCount="4375" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've recently updated my Ender 3 Pro to the latest Marlin 2.0 firmware and when I press autohome or try to move the axis, I hear a very quiet noise from the motors trying to move and then they just don't. I did get an error message about EEPROM when I first booted the printer after flashing but I just pressed reset and the issue hasn't come back even after trying multiple different firmware versions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26294" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-01-13T22:30:32.187" LastActivityDate="2023-09-22T20:34:51.387" Title="No stepper motor movement on Ender 3 Pro" Tags="|creality-ender-3|firmware|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15308" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11787" CreationDate="2021-01-13T18:50:53.737" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had a bad connection at my motor that was causing the problem. I soldered direct to the motor and no more problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26296" LastActivityDate="2021-01-13T18:50:53.737" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15309" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15316" CreationDate="2021-01-13T18:52:46.597" Score="1" ViewCount="73" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am working on refining my PMMA printing process and I am trying to print as close as possible to the theoretical 100 % density of the material. I am making good progress and am slowing increasing the extrusion multipliers to try and find a good set of print settings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I recently have run into an issue where the bottom ≈1/3 of the test cylinder is coming out rather distorted (see picture). The problem seems to sort itself out as the finish around the top of the cylinder looks fine. Do any of you have any experience with PMMA or have seen this problem before?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My initial thought is that it is heat driven and as more material is added it becomes less of an issue as there is more mass to dissipate the heat. For reference I am printing on an Raise3D Pro2Plus, for my prints I am running the extruder at 250 °C and the heated bed at 100 °C. I am eventually going to need to print rather large cylinders and would like an even surface finish along the length of it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Test Cylinders, right and left show distortion on the bottom and the center shows a bizarre print where half of the cylinder was fine and half came out very jagged.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ic9xH.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Test Cylinders, right and left show distortion on the bottom and the center shows a bizarre print where half of the cylinder was fine and half came out very jagged&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ic9xH.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Test Cylinders, right and left show distortion on the bottom and the center shows a bizarre print where half of the cylinder was fine and half came out very jagged&quot; title=&quot;Test Cylinders, right and left show distortion on the bottom and the center shows a bizarre print where half of the cylinder was fine and half came out very jagged&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26295" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2021-01-13T21:18:43.157" LastActivityDate="2021-01-14T10:59:08.780" Title="PMMA print distortion and inconsistencies" Tags="|print-quality|troubleshooting|print-material|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15310" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15303" CreationDate="2021-01-13T22:39:03.057" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Another source of fire comes from connections, not the heaters themselves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As the connection and connector ages, the electrical resistance of the connection increases.  Up to a point, this is not a problem.  A portion of the energy goes to heating the connection, and less energy goes to the heated element.  These are in closed loops, so energy is applied longer to compensate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The connection is using the lost energy to heat itself.  This increases the corrosion rate, and also can cause plastic in the connector to flow, which relaxes the connection pressure, which further increases the corrodion, resistance, and heating.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This situation is unstable, and ends in one of three ways:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the extrusion hot-end or the bed don't get as hot, with implication on the print quality,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the connection opens, and the heated system simply fails,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;or the worst case, where the temperature increases to the point where the connector housing, wire, heater PCB, or dust and fur on the connector catches fire.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only real mitigation of this risk is to periodically check power connections for warming.  If a connection is warm, it should be watched more carefully.  If it is hot, you already have a problem and should fix it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are concerned, focus on preventative maintenance, and on being sure that there are no flammable materials near the printer.  Don't put your printer in a simple foam case.  Consider the flammability of any enclosure components.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might also consider adding a smoke and high-temperature detector connected through a relay to disconnect main power.  If a connection starts sputtering, you might detect it before the fire can transfer to your house.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2082" LastActivityDate="2021-01-13T22:39:03.057" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15311" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7424" CreationDate="2021-01-13T22:58:11.837" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is normal to have different filaments with different hardness, therefore the teeth of the gears will bite at different depth in the filament strand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As result, the effective steps/mm will change and you should have a calibration per type of filament.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Repeating the calibration for each new spool is not needed, if you only change brand or colour, but at the end... it just takes 10 cm of filament. Is it really an issue?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2338" LastActivityDate="2021-01-13T22:58:11.837" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15312" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-01-14T00:31:05.710" Score="0" ViewCount="142" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is my first time printing 3D of any kind.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not 100% sure what happened.  The quality of some of these first printouts has ranged between 'not great' and 'unrecognizabe glop'.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm testing with a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.wiiboox.com/3d-printer-wiiboox-sweetin.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Wiiboox Sweetin&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So far the quality of the printed items, using the demo designs and the company-included sample dark an white chocolate is a little underwhelming: The details are crude (rough edges / lack of detail) and the speed is slow (about 20 minutes to print something the size of your thumb).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also tried to print a word created &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.blender.org&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Blender&lt;/a&gt; (MacOS), exported to STL, imported to &lt;a href=&quot;https://ultimaker.com/software/ultimaker-cura&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Ultimaker Cura&lt;/a&gt; where it was sized and positioned, sliced and exported to a &lt;code&gt;.gcode&lt;/code&gt; file.  That printout seemed to be a mold of the object as opposed to the object itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Attached are two images, the 1st shows what was intended to print.  The 2nd shows what actually printed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jtjij.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;What should have printed&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jtjij.png&quot; alt=&quot;What should have printed&quot; title=&quot;What should have printed&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uKdt9.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;What actually printed&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uKdt9.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;What actually printed&quot; title=&quot;What actually printed&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can see past the globs and blobs, and look closely, you might be able to make out why it looks to me like a mold instead of the intended item.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Side note I noticed that when the printer stopped printing (to move w/o printing), the extruder screw pulled back 10 - 20 mm, which seems excessive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So some first timer questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;What 3D printing controls might affect rough edges?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;What 3D printing controls would have an impact on a speed of completion.  I know there's arm speed, but perhaps detail, maybe something else?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Is there some control -- something along the lines of 'invert' -- that would explain why I seemed to have gotten a cast instead of the printed object?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Is there a setting that controls how far back the extruder arm retracts when it moves?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Is it necessary to install a printer to compatible with Wiibox Sweetin in Cura?  Wiiboox isn't an option, but perhaps there's something compatible.  The printer comes with a &lt;code&gt;CuraWindows.exe&lt;/code&gt; app (I'm on MacOS using Ultimaker Cura v4.8.0); there are two .ini files that come with that: &lt;code&gt;60ml0.6.ini&lt;/code&gt; &amp;amp; &lt;code&gt;60ml0.84.ini&lt;/code&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for any and all advice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26299" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2021-01-14T13:13:46.247" LastActivityDate="2021-02-13T15:02:15.227" Title="Accidentally printed a chocolate mold instead of the object itself" Tags="|molds|chocolate|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15313" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11144" CreationDate="2021-01-14T01:53:39.260" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my experience, polyurethane sticks to PLA like super glue, not good. But silicone and alginate doesn't stick at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I do is print the model of the mold with PLA or ABS, no matter. Then, cast a mold of the PLA model of the mold with alginate, then you have the negative of your mold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now with this alginate mold of the mold cast your actual mold with silicone. And then you can cast your part on polyurethane in the silicone mold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26305" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2021-01-14T13:14:48.087" LastActivityDate="2021-01-14T13:14:48.087" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15315" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15312" CreationDate="2021-01-14T10:17:18.877" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cura contains a few different so-called &amp;quot;&lt;a href=&quot;https://support.ultimaker.com/hc/en-us/articles/360012614279-Special-modes-settings&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;special modes&lt;/a&gt;&amp;quot; which changes what the software does with your STL. One such special mode is Mold mode which, instead of recreating the object, creates a mold for the STL. It appears you may have that setting turned on, so disabling it will cause Cura to work as intended.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To answer your other questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Most settings affect &amp;quot;rough shape&amp;quot;, properly slicing your STLs to fit your printer and printing material is an essential skill to master in 3D printing. So there is no magic setting to get it all working, you need to tune all your settings according to what you want to print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Your speed sounds fine, I can't speak for this printer in particular but print jobs taking hours or even &lt;strong&gt;days&lt;/strong&gt; is not out of the ordinary. 3D prints in general take quite some time to complete.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Yes, usually it's called Retraction Length.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Yes it is definitely necessary to set up Cura to your printer settings because Cura needs to know the build volume of your printer and what flavor of firmware is installed on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26318" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-01-14T14:44:04.203" LastActivityDate="2021-01-14T14:44:04.203" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15316" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15309" CreationDate="2021-01-14T10:59:08.780" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Commercial PMMA may soften already at 85 °C.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The higher you go away from the bed, the colder the air is, so the issues solves itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Try lowering the bed temperature, at least to exclude that as cause.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The second cylinder shows the very common issue related to uneven cooling. Probably your part cooling fan is blowing only from one side. Try using a better fan shroud or add a second part cooling fan.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2338" LastActivityDate="2021-01-14T10:59:08.780" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15317" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15319" CreationDate="2021-01-14T14:32:35.767" Score="2" ViewCount="603" Body="&lt;p&gt;Let's say, I want to print a box for putting game tokens in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is an empty cube, but the top layer is missing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do not need full walls. It could have holes in it resulting in a mesh structured wall, like a fence or a shopping cart.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What pattern should I use for the best object stability and print speed?&#xA;What programs can I use to design this? (I do not want to manually add 100 holes in my design).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26321" LastEditorUserId="26321" LastEditDate="2021-01-14T14:47:22.447" LastActivityDate="2021-01-15T03:14:29.770" Title="Improving print speed by adding holes" Tags="|3d-design|speed|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15318" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-01-14T16:57:36.083" Score="1" ViewCount="438" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hoping to determine the reason for my inability to print over ~270 °C on my Anet E10.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To date all operation has been fine.  Attempting to move to a configuration that supports above 250 °C up to ~300 °C.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The control board is the default V1.5 with no changes purchased ~Aug 2019.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I use OctoPrint to interact with the printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When attempting to print with a temperature &amp;gt; 270 °C OctoPrint shows it is stopping with a &amp;quot;maxtemp&amp;quot; error. The same &amp;quot;maxtemp&amp;quot; error occurs if I just set the settings to 270 °C and let is sit there for a couple of minutes at most.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This occurs with or without the bed being heated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can print successfully at 260 °C with or without the bed being heated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have changed the thermistor to another 100k glass bead and a 100k within a canister. There where no changes in the ~270 °C &amp;quot;maxtemp&amp;quot; stoppage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have also changed the heater from what was there (30 W I believe) to two different new 40 W (resistance of about 4.1 Ω) without a change in the ~270 °C &amp;quot;maxtemp&amp;quot; stoppage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The power supply seems not to be involved here since &amp;quot;maxtemp&amp;quot; stoppage occurs without the bed being heated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I believe this is solely the reason that the control board has a &amp;quot;maxtemp&amp;quot; set at 275 °C. (but I don't know this since I can't find a statement that the V1.5 has this setting by default).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there something I am missing in this scenario?  It seems I need to flash the board with settings that have maxtemp &amp;gt; 275 °C - say for my needs ~300 °C.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Regarding the hotend, I neglected to mention and should have, that I have upgraded it to a Micro Swiss in preparation to print over 250 °C.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26298" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-01-16T22:35:28.127" LastActivityDate="2021-01-16T22:40:10.027" Title="Anet E10 - Print above 270 °C or &quot;maxtemp&quot; error" Tags="|troubleshooting|hotend|temperature|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15319" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15317" CreationDate="2021-01-14T18:54:29.393" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Holes in vertical walls will make it take significantly &lt;em&gt;more&lt;/em&gt; time to print, not less. Rather than being able to make a continuous path around the box on each layer, keeping the print head at the desired speed the whole time, the printer will have to run around each connected component of the layer separately, slowing down, retracting, speeding up to travel, slowing down at the destination, unretracting, and speeding back up &lt;em&gt;each time&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2021-01-14T18:54:29.393" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15320" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15317" CreationDate="2021-01-14T19:36:43.773" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Definitely the speed will be worse after adding holes (or the quality otherwise, if object's skin is printed fast), though some filament savings may appear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But regarding &amp;quot;object stability&amp;quot;: because adding holes will normally cause the slower printing (because of &amp;quot;skin structures&amp;quot; around holes), then walls might get bit stronger or have better layer adhesion (comparing to line speed, the material, the printing temperature, etc.). Then stability might indeed improve, especially when walls are thin. Or may be reduced, depending on the pattern :) Also number of walls may count (n * nozzle diameter) or lack of skin overlap - then printing holes would support consistency of the structure. Thus the question of stability may be significant. Construction sience would most probably lead to &lt;a href=&quot;https://sciencemadefun.net/blog/triangles-the-strongest-shape/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;triangles&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26170" LastEditorUserId="26170" LastEditDate="2021-01-15T03:14:29.770" LastActivityDate="2021-01-15T03:14:29.770" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15321" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-01-14T21:32:47.030" Score="0" ViewCount="1556" Body="&lt;p&gt;The printer does not retract the filament for some travel moves result in scrape printing part as shown in picture.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XhwJa.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XhwJa.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is my printer setting. Not sure which part be the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LDEHB.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LDEHB.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want my printer to retract the filament as I have set it to. Where to check and what could be the problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21079" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-01-15T13:39:55.847" LastActivityDate="2021-01-15T13:39:55.847" Title="Filament doesn't retract for some travel movements using PrusaSlicer" Tags="|retraction|prusaslicer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15323" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15950" CreationDate="2021-01-14T22:32:30.443" Score="8" ViewCount="44957" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was having an issue with flat sheets raising up during initial layers. I had my bed at 80 °C and kept raising it thinking it was an issue with cold. After reducing the temperature to 50 °C the sheets sit flat now but sometimes sections come loose. I ended up using masking tape and a glue stick and everything finally seems to print flat and keep adhesion. I am using 210 °C hotend but I might try lowering it to 205 °C.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do you check if your printing temperature is too hot/cold or if your bed temperature is too hot/cold? None of the articles I read ever said that a bed too hot would cause PLA to rise but that's what happened.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25950" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-02-20T22:32:00.087" LastActivityDate="2021-03-25T21:16:18.730" Title="How to tell if PLA temp is too hot/cold" Tags="|pla|build-plate|temperature|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15325" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15318" CreationDate="2021-01-14T23:10:49.993" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your firmware has set a limit of 270 °C, normally, (default Marlin configured value) this is 275 °C. It appears that the Anet E10 developers have edited the value if you cannot exceed the 270 °C setpoint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The configuration file for Marlin firmware has the following maximum temperature limit set for the first hotend:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#define HEATER_0_MAXTEMP 275&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can change this yourself, but, you need to flash new firmware, making sure that you're using all the correct settings for this printer model.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a general remark (for others reading this), you shouldn't simply increase the temperature without changing the hotend (unless it is capable of high temperature printing), if the default hotend is lined with a PTFE tube, the PTFE can form dangerous/toxic gasses at elevated temperatures above 270 °C. But, in your case, an all-metal Micro Swiss hotend is installed that doesn't have the PTFE liner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Note that the Anet E10 configuration can be found in the &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/tree/2.0.x/config&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Marlin configurations zip file&lt;/a&gt;. For the 2.0.7.2 version, the E10 already has the hotend temperature limit increased to 305 °C.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-01-16T22:40:10.027" LastActivityDate="2021-01-16T22:40:10.027" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15326" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15307" CreationDate="2021-01-15T03:09:35.280" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a theoretical assumption, but I suppose that your steps/mm values are now wrong in the EEPROM - specifically that they are set to 0 (&lt;strong&gt;zeroed steps per mm&lt;/strong&gt;)? Could you please use the LCD and navigate to &lt;em&gt;Configuration &amp;gt; Advanced Settings &amp;gt; Steps per mm&lt;/em&gt; and check what values are set there? If there are zeros, could you set them to positive values (e.g. =80) and check homing again? Then save the changes using &lt;em&gt;Configuration &amp;gt; Store Settings&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I just made the following test proving that this may be the cause. I set steps per mm for X=0 (executed G-Code: &lt;code&gt;M92 X0&lt;/code&gt; from serial terminal) and tried to move X. The stepper motor was enabled (quiet noise or hiss), but it didn't move at all. There was no additional feedback e.g. on LCD. Pretty similar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this is not the only broken setting, then option &lt;em&gt;Configuration &amp;gt; Restore Defaults&lt;/em&gt; should reset the EEPROM to values defined in Marlin's configuration. I needed to perform &lt;em&gt;Configuration &amp;gt; Store Settings&lt;/em&gt; to make it persistent. But this will reset many other values, so I would suggest writing down all current values from LCD before doing the reset, for reference in future (in case they were valuable). And you still may not see all of the settings on the LCD, therefore I would use G-code for this operation - see below.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These operations can be also performed from a serial terminal using G-Code commands: &lt;a href=&quot;https://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M503.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;M503&lt;/a&gt; to verify and copy the current configuration, and &lt;a href=&quot;https://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M502.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;M502&lt;/a&gt; followed by &lt;a href=&quot;https://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M500.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;M500&lt;/a&gt; to perform a factory reset.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26170" LastEditorUserId="34923" LastEditDate="2023-06-06T07:13:05.007" LastActivityDate="2023-06-06T07:13:05.007" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15327" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-01-15T03:57:17.127" Score="3" ViewCount="6355" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Creality Ender 3 that printed a spool of Sunlu PLA with no issues, so I bought a second to replace it, just in a different color.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem is I can’t get it to stick. The bed is level, I’ve tried printing at different temps, even adjusted the fan, but no luck. No matter what, the print still only partially sticks to the bed before eventually being knocked loose by the nozzle, if it even sticks at all. Mostly it just extrudes in a spaghetti ball next to the nozzle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know how I can fix this issue? I have tried everything!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Update:&#xA;More info for those who have asked:&#xA;I have adjusted the temps of both the hot end and the bed to various temps within what is recommended with this filament (200-230 and 50-90 C)&#xA;The bed is level&#xA;I have attempted prints with both the plastic and glass beds (glass bed has never been printed on)&#xA;Attempted to use hairspray&#xA;While the print is somewhat sticking, it now produces a glob of pla while making its first pass down, which it then hits and completely unsticks. I think the glob is caused by the pla not sticking to the bed from the very beginning but am unsure.&#xA;Hope this helped!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26327" LastEditorUserId="26327" LastEditDate="2021-01-26T06:11:44.280" LastActivityDate="2021-02-02T11:36:28.673" Title="How to get Sunlu PLA to adhere to the printing bed?" Tags="|creality-ender-3|filament|heated-bed|print-failure|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15328" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15327" CreationDate="2021-01-15T05:04:33.950" Score="3" Body="&lt;h1&gt;Level the bed&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Make sure that the bed is level. The nozzle must be equally high over heated surface, otherwise only part of the print will have chance to be smeared and adhere properly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Clean thoroughly&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First thing I do when I notice that increasing bed temperature does not work anymore, is washing the glass with soap or detergent. Some advice to use also isopropyl alcohol. My impression is that the main mistake is to use alcohol to wipe the glass instead of &lt;strong&gt;dismounting and thoroughly cleaning the glass from any grease&lt;/strong&gt;. This is a bit more work, and for me works great.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Applying alcohol, brake cleaner or similar no-trace solvent could enhance the effect (as suggested by FarO).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Reduce the air flow&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Disable fan for the first layer (or even more layers above).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Isolate the printer from environment - e.g. buy or build enclosure. Remove any drafts. Ensure that ambient temperature is not cooling prints down too fast (for example printing in garage or shed may fail until the space is heated).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Use kapton tape&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may like the idea to put kapton tape on the surface (only glass?). Wide kapton roll would be needed to cover big area at once, to cover the whole glass with good quality and in reasonable time. Created surface should be as ideal as possible, because any bubbles will cause later trouble, it is not easy but doable. The outcome is great. Any accidents with hotend should be avoided, and prints removed with some care, to remain tape undamaged as long as possible.&#xA;(I use 50 mm tape. And I save this surface for printing ABS, and only occasionally for PLA, because it sticks so well that I had problem to remove prints saving the surface, even after cooling down.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Apply adhesive&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can use adhesives like &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11182/why-does-hairspray-work-as-an-adhesive-for-abs/11183?r=SearchResults&amp;amp;s=4%7C13.2803#11183&quot;&gt;hairspray&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/15281/are-all-glue-sticks-pva-based-how-to-find-out/15282?r=SearchResults&amp;amp;s=1%7C20.5123#15282&quot;&gt;glue stick&lt;/a&gt; or even better a &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/15282/&quot;&gt;dedicated adhesion spray&lt;/a&gt;. It is suggested especially for larger parts, which tend to wrap without this kind of adhesive aid. There is no one good solution. You may want to experiment, starting from cheap and widely accepted to commercial and wildly advertised products, with regards to your local market. Look for example links at the bottom.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Expand line settings for initial layer&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Make sure that amount of extruded material is correct. This mean proper calibration regarding settings like: steps/mm for E axis, flow rate. Small difference in amount of extruded filament will reduce the quality of the rest of the print. Bigger differences may ruin print at the initial layer, and for sure will spoil the rest.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Use slicer settings to increase line width for first layer. Values of 120-140% are standard settings for improving adhesion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Slightly increasing height of initial layer may also help to overcome bed surface&#xA;roughness or slight leveling errors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Decrease speed to 20 mm/s or less&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Reduce printing speed for initial layer &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/14958/filament-sticks-to-nozzle/15231#15231&quot;&gt;to 20 mm/s or even lower&lt;/a&gt;, and raise it carefully after trouble is really resolved. (In my opinion it is better to decrease speed to let plastic melt and stick, than to increase temperature.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Modify temperature&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The temperature of heated bed should be high enough to keep the initial layer of filament within glass transition zone. This usually means more than 60 °C for PLA (between 50 °C - 80 °C depending on contents). (I usually print at 70 °C, and raise to 80 °C when meet issues.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Increasing the temperature of nozzle also may improve the adhesion. But it may also be temporary success, because of negative effects related to temperature differences, and for example cause wrapping - ruining especially wider prints. So decreasing the nozzle temperature is also an option to check, when wrapping is observed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Experiment with more advanced techniques&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are still failing, then try experiment following many advices around (contrary, but sometimes working). If the firs layer adhere to the bed, but problems appear later, then other advanced techniques may help - like slicing model with additional structures (brim or raft).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The best advice may depend on kind of heated bed, surface or environment. This checklist may be of some use: &lt;a href=&quot;https://all3dp.com/2/3d-printer-bed-adhesion-all-you-need-to-know/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;3D Printer Bed Adhesion: All You Need To Know&lt;/a&gt;. Also there are many troubleshooting threads on the web, like this on Reddit: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.reddit.com/r/ender3/comments/di1j2t/sunlu_pla_will_not_adhere_to_build_surface/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;SUNLU PLA+ will not adhere to build surface&lt;/a&gt;, or; this on Thingiverse: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/groups/ender3/forums/general/topic:41047&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;SUNLO PLA+: does not stick.&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26170" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-02-02T11:36:28.673" LastActivityDate="2021-02-02T11:36:28.673" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15329" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15327" CreationDate="2021-01-15T09:51:53.197" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In addition to the suggestion of cleaning the glass with soap (dish soap works very well) and THEN also with any alcohol or brake cleaner or similar no-trace solvent, you can use hairspray or glue stick for larger parts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2338" LastActivityDate="2021-01-15T09:51:53.197" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15330" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15321" CreationDate="2021-01-15T12:27:05.333" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;code&gt;Minimum Travel after Retraction&lt;/code&gt; is exactly what it says on the tin: if the travel after a retraction would be less than 2 mm, it does &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; retract. You'll want that to be short, but not 0, because retraction can lead to under extrusion at the start of a new line, and every swap from one shell to the next shell right next to it is classed as travel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastActivityDate="2021-01-15T12:27:05.333" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15331" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2021-01-15T13:50:12.890" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;PrusaSlicer (formerly known as &amp;quot;Slic3r Prusa Edition&amp;quot; or &amp;quot;Slic3r PE&amp;quot;) is the in-house developed slicer software based/forked on the open-source project Slic3r. PrusaSlicer is an open-source, feature-rich, frequently updated tool that contains everything you need to export the print files for either an original Prusa 3D printer, or any other printer when configured in the settings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PrusaSlicer is available for Windows, Mac and Linux.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-01-15T13:50:12.890" LastActivityDate="2021-01-15T13:50:12.890" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15332" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2021-01-15T13:50:12.890" Score="0" Body="For questions regarding the slicer maintained by Prusa Research." OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-01-15T13:50:12.890" LastActivityDate="2021-01-15T13:50:12.890" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15333" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-01-15T14:35:03.923" Score="1" ViewCount="88" Body="&lt;p&gt;I apologize if the questions sounds stupid, I want to extrude these cubes only, I tried to select all, the freecad froze, and when I select the edges, it also say, no shapes selected for extrusion, can someone help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/N1y2M.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/N1y2M.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/A5cgt.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/A5cgt.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26138" LastActivityDate="2021-01-15T14:35:03.923" Title="How To Extrude These Cubes Array?" Tags="|freecad|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15334" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-01-15T15:23:56.550" Score="0" ViewCount="94" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an array with holes that I have to fill with different materials. My question is there is an easy way to fill them directly? I tried array, array draft and it is annoying to adjust them. In Blender, it easy to select the vertices and fill. Maybe it is a stupid question, but I am not really an expert.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7VwUW.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7VwUW.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26138" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2021-02-03T21:42:38.843" LastActivityDate="2021-07-03T22:06:25.613" Title="How to fill these squares easily" Tags="|3d-models|freecad|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15335" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15336" CreationDate="2021-01-15T16:23:02.720" Score="1" ViewCount="974" Body="&lt;p&gt;The following creates an object with two slots:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt; translate([-40,-40,0]) difference() {&#xA;     cube ([90,28,12]);&#xA;     translate([12,-.01,5]) cube([12.7,28.02,14.02]);&#xA;     translate([65,-.01,5]) cube([12.7,28.02,14.02]);&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can the first main cube be extended to be a complex object of the syntax:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;cube([60,20,10],center=true);translate([0,0,5])cube([30,20,10],center=true);&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and then use &lt;code&gt;difference&lt;/code&gt; to create holes?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26335" LastEditorUserId="12562" LastEditDate="2021-01-16T05:16:43.780" LastActivityDate="2021-01-16T05:18:13.953" Title="How to combine difference with concatinate object" Tags="|openscad|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2021-01-15T22:52:11.477" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15336" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15335" CreationDate="2021-01-15T16:27:16.317" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;code&gt;union&lt;/code&gt; syntax addresses this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;translate([-40,-40,0]) &#xA;difference() {&#xA;    union() {&#xA;        cube ([90,28,12]);&#xA;&#xA;        translate([20,0,20]) &#xA;        cube([12,12,12]);&#xA;    }&#xA;&#xA;    translate([12,-.01,5]) &#xA;    cube([12.7,28.02,14.02]);&#xA;&#xA;    translate([65,-.01,5]) &#xA;    cube([12.7,28.02,14.02]); &#xA;}&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It supports creating an object before the difference syntax is applied.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26335" LastEditorUserId="12562" LastEditDate="2021-01-16T05:18:13.953" LastActivityDate="2021-01-16T05:18:13.953" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15337" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15334" CreationDate="2021-01-15T17:12:54.423" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are asking for print then it is yes with FDM (fused deposition modeling) with multiple extrusion you can fill with different material easily. But if you are trying to change the material in your digital design then you need to work on every hole in the array, especially with FreeCAD. If you find any, please update here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26337" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-01-15T22:52:50.787" LastActivityDate="2021-01-15T22:52:50.787" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15340" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-01-16T22:27:42.480" Score="2" ViewCount="74" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am looking for a way to generate 2D horizontal templates for manually carving an object. My thought was to produce an STL of the model, generate the G-code, and then transform that into slices. Appreciate any suggestions for where to start. I'm not afraid of getting my hands dirty with python, R, matlab, whatever.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26346" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-01-16T22:43:56.760" LastActivityDate="2021-01-17T01:08:34.747" Title="Can carving templates be produced from G-code?" Tags="|g-code|slicing|slic3r|2d|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15341" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-01-16T23:24:37.463" Score="0" ViewCount="420" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've read a lot of posts in regard to these subjects but I think that the advice is just so saturated it's hard to know what to follow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've had trouble with my bed min pos and x/y probe offsets ever since I installed the two fan version of the Hero Me 5. I followed the advice in the manual and uncomment &lt;code&gt;MANUAL_Y_HOME_POS -9&lt;/code&gt; to account for the width of the mount, but ever since then I can't get prints centered on my plate, and with the suggested probe offsets for the mount I used as X -60, Y -13, the BLTouch still won't probe the plate evenly, which is causing (I believe) the front left and front right corner to print unevenly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've tried remeasuring the offsets using the x and y coordinates on the printer and subtracting out the nozzle coordinates, didn't work. I tried printing a 100x100 mm square and measuring the left and right x differences and the top to bottom y differences, subtracting, dividing by 2, and updating that new value via &lt;code&gt;M206&lt;/code&gt; and &lt;code&gt;M500&lt;/code&gt;, that didn't work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried homing the nozzle to the actual x0, y0 position in the bottom left corner and using &lt;code&gt;M428&lt;/code&gt; to try and save that, but that didn't work. The only thing I was able to get to work and print fairly evenly (it's still off by a few mm on each side) is to use the code settings I have below and sending a &lt;code&gt;M206 Y-11 M500&lt;/code&gt; command which has it almost straight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried updating that in the firmware and re-flashing but that reverted back to being uneven and my BLTouch still probes unevenly (bed visualizer is showing all green though. I also tried adjusting the Y endstop, but the bed started slamming into the end of the axis and grinding the belt a bit&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So after that long-winded explanation, my question is how do I get my x/y to 0/0 in the bottom left corner, print evenly, and probe evenly, is it best to zero out everything and start measurements from scratch? I also ran an &lt;code&gt;M48&lt;/code&gt; test to rule out the probe and the returned values came back in line. My code is below for reference. Set up is Ender 3 Pro, 4.2.7 Creality board, Marlin Bug fix 2.0, BLTouch model v3.1, glass Ped plate, Hero Me 5 duct system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also just another side question, when you load new firmware, what is erased and what is updated? If I adjust these new values below, do I always need to load settings from EEPROM and save to over write everything old?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;/ Direction of endstops when homing; 1=MAX, -1=MIN// :[-1,1]&#xA;#define X_HOME_DIR -1&#xA;#define Y_HOME_DIR -1&#xA;#define Z_HOME_DIR -1// &#xA;'@section machine// The size of the print bed&#xA;#define X_BED_SIZE 235&#xA;#define Y_BED_SIZE 235// Travel limits (mm) after homing, corresponding to endstop positions.&#xA;#define X_MIN_POS -6.5 (Previous defaults for both where 0 and 0)&#xA;#define Y_MIN_POS -11.5&#xA;#define Z_MIN_POS 0&#xA;#define X_MAX_POS X_BED_SIZE&#xA;#define Y_MAX_POS Y_BED_SIZE&#xA;#define Z_MAX_POS 250&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;#define NOZZLE_TO_PROBE_OFFSET {-61, -15, -0.60 }// Most probes should stay away from the edges of the bed, but// with NOZZLE_AS_PROBE this can be negative for a wider probing area.&#xA;#define PROBING_MARGIN 10// X and Y axis travel speed (mm/min) between probes&#xA;#define XY_PROBE_SPEED (100*60)// Feedrate (mm/min) for the first approach when double-probing (MULTIPLE_PROBING == 2)&#xA;#define Z_PROBE_SPEED_FAST (4*60)// Feedrate (mm/min) for the &amp;quot;accurate&amp;quot; probe of each point&#xA;#define Z_PROBE_SPEED_SLOW (Z_PROBE_SPEED_FAST / 2)&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;/ Manually set the home position. Leave these undefined for automatic settings.// For DELTA this is the top-center of the Cartesian print volume.//&#xA;#define MANUAL_X_HOME_POS 0&#xA;#define MANUAL_Y_HOME_POS -9//&#xA;#define MANUAL_Z_HOME_POS 0&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;G-code adjustment sent, &lt;code&gt;M206 y-11 M500&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26347" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-01-17T23:12:00.443" LastActivityDate="2021-01-17T23:12:00.443" Title="Help coding the MIN_POS and x/y probe offsets" Tags="|troubleshooting|calibration|bltouch|homing|print-axis-offset|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15342" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15340" CreationDate="2021-01-17T00:52:34.177" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would approach following way. I saw interesting example of using &lt;em&gt;Autodesk Fusion 360&lt;/em&gt; to generate moves (G-Code) for carving in vertical slices. Fusion generated moves like for CNC tool in &amp;quot;parallel mode&amp;quot;. You can see details in the video &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CkRDLPbVNo4&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;3D printer cutting styrofoam like CNC router&lt;/a&gt; (software setup is presented at 11:00-14:30). Steps/settings important for manual work would be:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;selecting parallel strategy&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;steup length and width of tool - reflecting &amp;quot;depth/width of slice&amp;quot;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;check the simulation&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;create NC program - creating the G-Code file&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think that even if really working manually, the benefit of such approach would be that you focus on one layer/slice at time, and carve in one depth from the top of &amp;quot;material block&amp;quot; to the line defined be two points (the move in G-Code). The trouble could be actual number of such &amp;quot;G-Code lines&amp;quot;: there will be probably too many of them, e.g. to measure each by hand and draw on the sufrface. But maybe this could be reduced with resolution (and quality). You could try to use any G-Code visualizer to project lines (of given single layer/slice) with beamer on the material sufrace.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The depth (real width of slice) could be controlled only manually, to avoid carving too deep.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The video uses parallel carving strategy to work in vertical slices. &amp;quot;Adaptive cleanring&amp;quot; strategy could be used to work horizontally.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26170" LastActivityDate="2021-01-17T00:52:34.177" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15343" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15340" CreationDate="2021-01-17T00:57:09.673" Score="1" Body="&lt;h1&gt;Carving decorative patterns?&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your templates needs to be used like one does a stencil, that's doable... but paper-thin is not as you can't make that with an FDM printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But if you allow 0.2 or even better, 0.5 mm thickness, it is as simple as making a vector graphic, importing it into a suitable CAD package, then extruding it to the relevant thickness, and sending it into the printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you really need it to be thinner, invest in a vinyl cutter, and use the same vector graphic to cut a foil template for one use. Upside: you could use the vinyl to &lt;em&gt;etch&lt;/em&gt; the patterns in metal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Carving figurines?&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, that's possible too, even easier! Make a 3D model of the finished object in a CAD or 3D modeling software. Either cut up the model right there and export each slice as STL for the printer, or export the whole model and use a secondary software such as MeshMixer to do plane cuts onto the model.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The slices should be at least 0.5 mm thick to allow handling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It might &lt;em&gt;also&lt;/em&gt; be a good idea to use the same model and cut it from a cube, which then is sliced up - that way you get a pattern to press against the outside of the model.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2021-01-17T01:08:34.747" LastActivityDate="2021-01-17T01:08:34.747" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15344" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-01-17T10:44:25.323" Score="2" ViewCount="444" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have designed a model with the dimensions 215x125x12 mm. According to my printer settings, the printing area of the Ultimaker 3 is 233x215x200 mm. But I can not get the model to fit. Why is that?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are some screenshots:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4z9kp.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Ultimaker image 00&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4z9kp.png&quot; alt=&quot;Ultimaker image 00&quot; title=&quot;Ultimaker image 00&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YOKOW.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Ultimaker image 01&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YOKOW.png&quot; alt=&quot;Ultimaker image 01&quot; title=&quot;Ultimaker image 01&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26355" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2021-01-17T17:05:27.947" LastActivityDate="2021-01-21T15:24:47.043" Title="Ultimaker 3 printing area?" Tags="|ultimaker-3|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15345" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15344" CreationDate="2021-01-17T11:00:14.097" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes that happens! It finds its source in various possible reasons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The print bed is not square! There are cutouts caused by the print head;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The Ultimaker 3 has 2 nozzles, when you have 2 active, the effective print bed is smaller than with 1 nozzle active;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Using a brim or a skirt also makes the effective print area smaller.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In re-creating your example, the settings in your projects are not correct (but even if done properly, you will not be able to print it flat on the bed). Take a look at the image below, as can be seen your example still has a brim/skirt reservation, be sure to disable the second extruder (as shown by a cross X before &amp;quot;Generic PLA&amp;quot; at the top).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jN7uW.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jN7uW.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only solution to print this on this machine is to print it upright:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/boeSZ.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/boeSZ.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-01-21T15:24:47.043" LastActivityDate="2021-01-21T15:24:47.043" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15348" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-01-17T16:23:14.247" Score="1" ViewCount="1124" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have 3D printed in PLA a curved viaduct for a model railway (N gauge) and affixed inkjet paper using UHU glue. The layout lives in my garage and as soon as the viaduct goes into the garage the paper bubbles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What adhesive can I use to prevent this from happening? I've had to strip all the brick paper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26356" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2021-01-17T16:58:34.517" LastActivityDate="2021-06-16T17:07:05.683" Title="Gluing paper to PLA objects" Tags="|post-processing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15349" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15348" CreationDate="2021-01-17T16:43:22.553" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The problem is probably the UHU glue having not had the time to cure through and interacting with either the PLA, the moisture in the garage, or the brick-paper's covering foil. Many of the metal-tube UHU glues - like &amp;quot;UHU Hart&amp;quot; - are resin-based and contain solvents that can interact with some polymers like the coating of the brick paper. Curing times can be up to 48 hours to cure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have had a very good experience with very basic water-resistant Wood Glue to both smooth over 3D-prints as well as attach layers of wood or paper to it. Most wood glues are made with a chemical that is the same or similar enough to those in Gluestick (usually PVA, sometimes PVP). These usually don't react with the fibers and surface of the NOCH-brand brick paper I know.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After having the glue dry thoroughly - for Express type wood glues that is about 2 hours - there is little to no chance that the two interact badly in the garage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastActivityDate="2021-01-17T16:43:22.553" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15350" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15354" CreationDate="2021-01-17T19:25:42.857" Score="1" ViewCount="3865" Body="&lt;p&gt;After watching every possible YouTube video on the subject and reading any source available, and although I'm a PhD and quite computer savvy, I still can't make my Anet A6 (no probe) behave in terms of Z offset. I upgraded to silicone bed buffers instead of the stock springs; now my bed is ~5 mm raised, and I don't know how to proceed. Some observations:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;G28&lt;/strong&gt; makes the nozzle go to the center of the bed. Display says X 111 and Y 111. Is it preferable to set the home to the bottom-left corner, or is the center just fine?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;G28&lt;/strong&gt; makes the nozzle squish the bed ~5 mm deep.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I've tried the &lt;strong&gt;G92&lt;/strong&gt; approach and the &lt;strong&gt;M428&lt;/strong&gt; approach. I can't quite understand what's the difference between them. Can anyone explain why sometimes the former is used and sometimes the latter?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I had high hopes for &lt;strong&gt;M428&lt;/strong&gt;. What could be simpler? You physically guide the nozzle to where you want it to be, send the command, and that's your new 0,0,0. But I guess not. Since my &amp;quot;home&amp;quot; is at 111,111 and apparently M428 can only be used at a maximum of 20 mm from 0, I get a &amp;quot;too far from reference&amp;quot; error message.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;At any rate, both approaches (also &lt;strong&gt;M206&lt;/strong&gt;) haven't helped. When I &lt;strong&gt;G28&lt;/strong&gt;, the nozzle still squishes the bed. The display either says Z 5 or Z -5 or whatever I've played with, but the nozzle still squishes the poor bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;In my LCD menu (Marlin 1.1.9), I don't have Control -&amp;gt; Motion -&amp;gt; Z offset. Since many videos recommend using this, this is quite sad. Can anyone tell me why this option is absent?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;On a very conceptual level, I can't quite understand why in all the video guides the bed screws are completely ignored when discussing Z offset. One guy showed how he's correcting his Z offset 0.3 mm using G-code. But he could've easily done it by adjusting his screws... They all say &amp;quot;Z offset means the distance between your nozzle and bed, and here is how to adjust it&amp;quot;. Now comes G-code, or LCD menu, etc. But why is everyone forgetting that you can adjust the distance between your bed and nozzle using the screws?! I can't seem to wrap my head around this. In my case, of course, I can't use the screws -- they've reached their limit, so I need to add extra using G-code. But nobody seems to really explain this nicely...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Summary:&lt;/strong&gt; I urgently need a walkthrough for 6-year-olds. Make that 4-year-olds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26360" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-01-17T22:52:42.067" LastActivityDate="2021-01-31T04:02:39.723" Title="How do I set my Z offset?" Tags="|marlin|g-code|bed-leveling|anet-a6|print-axis-offset|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15351" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8009" CreationDate="2021-01-17T20:16:04.543" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;From the picture, this doesn't look like an X or Y axis problem.  I wonder if it is a problem with the Z-axis positioning?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't have any specific suggestions, but I would start by, with the printer off and cold, manually turning the Z-axis motor(s) to assure that the movements are smooth and without any binding.  If the movement is smooth, then with the printer powered on, try some Z-axis movements, up and down, both listening and feeling for excessive vibration or jerkiness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What may be happening is that the Z movement is binding for several layers and causing the flexure in the Z-axis to bend upward, permitting some plastic to extrude but forcing it into a wide bulge.  When the Z axis finally snaps upward, the build layer is too far below the nozzle, so the plastic does not bulge outward and necks down until it builds a base again.  This repeats.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It could be an electrical problem with the Z-axis drive rather than a mechanical sticking or interference, but you will feel that, too, by doing slow Z-axis movements and watching carefully, listening for irregularity, and feeling for any jerk or stutter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2082" LastEditorUserId="2082" LastEditDate="2021-01-17T23:15:27.933" LastActivityDate="2021-01-17T23:15:27.933" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15352" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15066" CreationDate="2021-01-17T20:49:32.683" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I started printing ABS with my Prusa i3 MK3 MMU2+ printer, I started experiencing jams on some longer prints, which was heat creap, possibly combined with old filament.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I improved the cooling by filling the gap between the sides of the heat sink and the plastic extruder body. I think I stuffed it with some soft foam rubber, but anything that can handle the (what should be fairly cool) temperature should work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My hypothesis is that with gap allowed too much of the air to pass without engaging the heat sink, compromising the cooling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With that change, I haven't had heat-creap jams.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You aren't printing ABS, but the temperature is high, and PLA softens as a low temperature. IMO, it would still be worth making the change.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is the gap on the front and rear sides that I blocked.  The heatsink fins are fully open for air flow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some people here have changed out the Noctua fan for one that is noisier and pushes more air, which should also work. I appreciate the quiet fan, so I tried to get more work out of the fan I had.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2082" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-01-17T23:01:40.483" LastActivityDate="2021-01-17T23:01:40.483" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15353" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15350" CreationDate="2021-01-17T21:24:09.517" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Setting any offset will move the whole print (&amp;quot;effectively shifts the coordinate space&amp;quot;) - so you can set up for printing above or below bed, or shifting several cm to the right, for example - and then your print may not actually fit the printing space. For example: my frame is blocking X moves at the top, I can set the 20 mm X offset to avoid accident when printing high (so shift the print). Or when setting the new print on top of another print, thus shifting the position, etc. If you call &lt;code&gt;M428&lt;/code&gt; in any position, then current position will become the new offset. Current offset settings is reported by &lt;code&gt;M503&lt;/code&gt; (or &lt;code&gt;M206&lt;/code&gt; without parameters).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also &lt;code&gt;G92&lt;/code&gt; is used as ad-hoc operation when relative positioning is used. It makes sense for extruder movements, but is not used for moving the printing head in practice. I would say that any such calls for X,Y,Z sound like some hacking, and you should know exactly what you are doing for tricking printer's logic this way. I would avoid this at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Normally (0,0,0) for cartesian printers is nearest-bottom-left point of the bed.  If properly zero the printer is what you are trying to achieve, then you should:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;zero any X,Y,Z offsets: &lt;code&gt;M206 X0 Y0 Z0&lt;/code&gt; (unless some is justified like in the frame example)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;save this setting for future: &lt;code&gt;M500&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;home the printer - it zero the position, and then automiaticall backoff to some &amp;quot;safe distance&amp;quot; (programmed in firmware)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;use LCD to move carriage back to zero: at least for the Z axis&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;regulate bed screws to fit the zero position of printing head&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are settings in &lt;a href=&quot;https://marlinfw.org/docs/configuration/configuration.html#homing&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Marlin's file Configuration_adv.h&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Marlin 1.1:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#define X_HOME_BUMP_MM 5&#xA;#define Y_HOME_BUMP_MM 5&#xA;#define Z_HOME_BUMP_MM 2&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Marlin 2.x:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#define HOMING_BUMP_MM      { 5, 5, 2 }       // (mm) Backoff from endstops after first bump&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They do not change the zero (do not set offset), but force the carriage to move away from zero during homing operation and (Marlin 1.1) after homing, becuse usually it is convenient. Marlin 2.x offers separate parameter for final backoff:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;//#define HOMING_BACKOFF_MM { 2, 2, 2 }&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you would like to center the head after homing, I would suggest to use these settings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26170" LastEditorUserId="26170" LastEditDate="2021-01-31T04:02:39.723" LastActivityDate="2021-01-31T04:02:39.723" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15354" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15350" CreationDate="2021-01-17T22:50:11.460" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;So the new silicone buffers raised the bed by 5 mm? When this happens, you should raise the endstop also with 5 mm. Else the printer will go down to the Z endstop that is effectively 5 mm below the level of the bed. I guess the buffers cannot be compressed by 5 mm, so you need to move the endstop up to the level your buffer compression is in reach of.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No software offset will work (for your current setup: homing on the bed surface does not work as the switch need to be triggered prior to having any offset in play) other than a hardware change or compression of the buffers of 5 mm. It would only be possible to use a software offset when the nozzle homes off the bed surface (next to the bed). The only thing you would have had to do is add in your start G-code:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;G0 Z5   ; Move the head to 5 mm &#xA;G92 Z0  ; Call this Z = 0 &#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If &lt;code&gt;#define Z_SAFE_HOMING&lt;/code&gt; is enabled, you should comment the line in the configuration file to make it home Z at the homed X, Y position.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I will not go into all G-codes, details are read on the &lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/wiki/G-code&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;G-codes Wiki pages&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;https://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Marlin firmware G-codes&lt;/a&gt;, these won't be able to help you out unless you fix the homing on the bed surface. Currently, you need to do a hardware fix, your endstop is below the surface level of the bed. Alternative is to remove homing Z above the bed surface and redefine the Z offset. A hardware fix is a better solution, and if you manage to print a fancy Z endstop holder and counterpart with a screw you will be able to level the bed more easily.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;E.g. &lt;a href=&quot;https://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M428.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;code&gt;M428&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/a&gt; can set an offset, yes, but, it needs a reference; that reference is the homing reference or the current position. The current position of a printer that is just turn on is meaningless, it can be everywhere in the print volume. So you need to trigger the endstops first, that is not possible when it is not reachable (without compressing the bed).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-01-18T18:45:33.507" LastActivityDate="2021-01-18T18:45:33.507" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15355" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15066" CreationDate="2021-01-18T00:28:35.190" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The maker geeks formulation of PLA requires much hotter temperatures. The plastic was not melted enough for good flow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5369" LastActivityDate="2021-01-18T00:28:35.190" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15356" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-01-18T03:39:29.263" Score="1" ViewCount="558" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just bought an Ender 3 Max and from the start I knew something was wrong. I figured out the problem: it is with the first few millimeters of the Z axis movement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I turn on my 3D printer, go to prepare, move axis, move Z, move 1 mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then I tell the printer to move up 1 mm. But in reality it only moves up 0.3 mm.  I then tell it to move up another millimeter, except it only moves up 0.4 mm. When I tell it to move up another millimeter, and it moves up only 0.45 mm.  I then tell it to move up another millimeter and it moves up 0.6 mm. And then anytime after that when I say to move up a millimeter it actually moves up a millimeter.  Below is a little chart to help you understand what is happening.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Set height | Actual height&#xA;--------------------------&#xA;         0 | 0&#xA;         1 | 0.3&#xA;         2 | 0.7&#xA;         3 | 1.15&#xA;         4 | 1.75&#xA;         5 | 2.75&#xA;         6 | 3.75&#xA;         7 | 4.75&#xA;         8 | 5.75&#xA;         9 | 6.75&#xA;        10 | 7.75&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a result of this error on my printer, the test prints I have run so far are splayed out and uneven at the bottom, making my prints warped at the first 5 mm and several millimeters shorter than they should be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26364" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-01-18T12:54:01.143" LastActivityDate="2023-08-17T16:27:08.063" Title="Incorrect beginning Z movement" Tags="|z-axis|linear-motion|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15357" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15148" CreationDate="2021-01-18T04:18:19.863" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You are correct, you can over cure a print by leaving it out in the sun. Prints can even over cure just by the ambient light in a room from the sun (though it would take a while).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One easy option to counter this &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.krylon.ca/products/uvresistant-clear-coating/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;krylon UV-Resistant Clear Coating&lt;/a&gt; which can be found at most hardware stores. I have used it but I found that it made my print a little softer this may have been because of the materials in the spray-can, or the type of resin I printed with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should check out the answer posted to &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/14928/clear-coating-resin-3d-prints&quot;&gt;Clear coating resin 3D prints&lt;/a&gt; as it provides some other options you can try as well such as using a brush on option.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19914" LastActivityDate="2021-01-18T04:18:19.863" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15358" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11953" CreationDate="2021-01-18T06:55:04.793" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;A strong epoxy like BSI 5-15 min works great for me. I use it to bond high power rocket fin halves printed from PETG:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cMUsv.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cMUsv.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26366" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-01-18T08:06:31.207" LastActivityDate="2021-01-18T08:06:31.207" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15359" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13532" CreationDate="2021-01-18T11:12:52.917" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;After several email exchanges with the customer support, I was not able to find an answer. It was stated that it may have been my assembly and/or extruder mount, but I'm strongly against that after so many times reassembling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Gear backlash ended up becoming permanent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I ended up switching over to something else with a more self-sufficient design and less variables.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19406" LastActivityDate="2021-01-18T11:12:52.917" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15360" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15356" CreationDate="2021-01-18T12:57:23.020" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your printer probably has an issue with binding in the lower region (binding means extra friction possibly causing the Z stepper to skip steps). Disconnect the lead screw an manually move the X gantry up and down. If there is binding, you need to find why this happens, with the unfortunate design of the Ender, many people experience issues when the rollers on both posts are not correctly installed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2021-01-18T12:57:23.020" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15361" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-01-18T18:06:49.253" Score="4" ViewCount="7410" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've had an Ender 5 Plus for a few weeks now. It's printing great and I've got my tuning pretty good at the moment. I've noticed some horizontal inconsistencies matching feature/geometry changes. It seems to be associated with maybe layer time(?) I only have a picture from two models, but the problem will appear in other places on different models, always matching some change in the layers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem is consistent all around the model and changes position with different prints, so I know it's not a mechanical problem. Say I printed a 2x2 cm tower 20 cm tall, it will not have any of these imperfections because every layer is identical.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I highly suspect the layer time/temperature change, but I don't know how to fix this, I'm a bit stumped. They both were printed at 200 °C and I'm trying a new one at 210 °C (best temperature with the spool I have) and it has the same problem. All three models are from the same spool of PLA.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, I use Cura with mostly default settings for the Ender 5+.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are the pictures :&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried to highlight the idea, but every line matches with some change in the model&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EwjN7.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EwjN7.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Model 1&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the benchy it's harder to see, but the hull line match with the solid floor of the model, and the top ones match with the top window sill starting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/STS4C.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/STS4C.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Benchy&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26374" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-01-19T05:53:52.010" LastActivityDate="2023-06-10T17:46:27.460" Title="Horizontal lines on feature/geometry/density change" Tags="|pla|creality-ender-5|layer-shifting|temperature|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15362" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15364" CreationDate="2021-01-18T22:27:52.223" Score="2" ViewCount="200" Body="&lt;p&gt;Being new to 3D printing, I have started printing different files from Thingiverse to better my experience. I have noticed on some YouTube videos that certain items/models/STLs should be oriented a certain way on the build plate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What things should I take into consideration when placing items on the build plate?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Printer: Ender 3v2 (stock)&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Slicer: Cura&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23193" LastActivityDate="2021-01-19T00:19:57.583" Title="Considerations for placing STL on build plate" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|3d-models|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15363" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15361" CreationDate="2021-01-18T22:38:32.527" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is varying underextrusion due to loss of material to oozing in the interior of the model.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When printing the infill pattern, the nozzle doesn't follow a single continuous extrusion path, but moves from the end of one path to the beginning of the next, and under Cura defaults, &lt;em&gt;does this without retracting the filament&lt;/em&gt;. This causes unpredictable amounts to ooze out during travel from one to the next, thereby desynchronizing the planned/intended amount of material extruded so far and the actual amount. This means, when the next outer-wall extrusion starts, there's an unpredictable deficiency between the amount of material at the nozzle to extrude, and the amount the slicer intended to extrude. The result is what you're seeing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To fix it, you need to eliminate oozing, not just outside the model where it appears as visible stringing, but inside too. Either disable &amp;quot;Combing&amp;quot; entirely in Cura, or set &amp;quot;Max Comb Distance With No Retract&amp;quot; to something very low (0.8 mm or less). Also set &amp;quot;Minimum Extrusion Distance Window&amp;quot; to 0 to ensure Cura doesn't skip retractions for other reasons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may also want to play with extrusion length and speed. Too short or too long can be bad; 5-7 mm is the reasonable range for PLA with a bowden. Higher speed generally helps too; the printer should be able to handle 50 mm/s or faster.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2021-01-18T22:38:32.527" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15364" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15362" CreationDate="2021-01-19T00:19:57.583" Score="1" Body="&lt;h1&gt;Orienting items&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Orienting items on the build plate should consider:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;overhangs&lt;/strong&gt; - many hangning fragments will need additional support to be printed (cost of time and material, risk of failure); gravity and colling process will affect loose/hanging plastic in this or that way&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;layered structure&lt;/strong&gt; - parts will be stronger in X-Y directions, and weaker in Z direction&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;adhesion&lt;/strong&gt; - it is good to have wide foot to touch and stick to the bed, then only thin base growing big upwards, which may easily fail by any accident&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;space&lt;/strong&gt; - if the thing is big, it may have to be rotated diagonally to fit the printing surface&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So most of it comes from particular shape. Try to look at thing from different sides, spatial awareness helps a lot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Placing items&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, placing items on the build plate should consider:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;heating system&lt;/strong&gt; - heated bed surface may be warmer at center; even if the bed is heated evenly, than surface will cool down faster at sides, which may affect adhesion (e.g. ABS will wrap more often)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;cooling system&lt;/strong&gt; - sometimes printer has better cooling from one side (depending on location of fans or construction of cooling ducts), so any overhangs (fragments which have to cool down very quickly) should be properly exposed, otherwise they will wrap&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;environment (external influences) - they may affect heating / cooling as well; also mutual position of few objects may affect cooling or act as wall for wind&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;printer construction&lt;/strong&gt; - e.g. backside of &lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/wiki/Air_2&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Prusa Air 2&lt;/a&gt; frame is shrinking going up, and anything mounted behing extruder will hit the frame - so high prints should be X-centered/narrow, and rather wide along Y axis&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;multiple extrusion&lt;/strong&gt; - if you use dual extruder, then mixed fragments may not be located on edges, because one of nozzles just cannot reach it&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;surface quality&lt;/strong&gt; - e.g. I print ABS on Kapton tape; sometimes the tape gets small holes or tearing from hotend accidents or forceful part detachment - then I just avoid damaged areas&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;other issues&lt;/strong&gt; - e.g. my Y axis is louder than X, therefore I rather try to use X axis more often (especially when printing late evenings)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;view point&lt;/strong&gt; - easthetics of printing: which objects, which sides you want to observe during printing?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;acessability&lt;/strong&gt; - if you may want to influence area during print, put something inside the part during printing?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So most of it comes from the experiences with particular printer - its technical parameters and observations. Many times it is only a choice - like simple PLA prints sticking well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26170" LastActivityDate="2021-01-19T00:19:57.583" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15365" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15361" CreationDate="2021-01-19T00:42:23.103" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If this matches the horizontal planes - like &amp;quot;solid floor&amp;quot; than I would advice to check overlap settings. My suspicion is slight overextrusion, which might be the reason of many small horizontal differences. Using 3 mm filament I often suffer of similar inconsistencies, until I find proper flowrate to avoid overextrusion. Adding first to second, the solid plane will push walls more to sides.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do you print &amp;quot;Infill Before Walls&amp;quot; (Cura setting)?  You may try to disable this checkbox and observe if the result persisted. Also you may enable &amp;quot;Outer Before Inner Walls&amp;quot; - to ensure, that outer wall is printed first with least interference (though some other issues may appear after travel, layer change, etc.).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;So try print from outside to inside (outer walls &amp;gt; inner walls &amp;gt; infill).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Then try to reduce &amp;quot;Flow&amp;quot; until you see no overextrusion (or even small gaps in the surface).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Finally revert these settings (infill &amp;gt; inner &amp;gt; outer) and check again.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26170" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-01-19T14:05:50.193" LastActivityDate="2021-01-19T14:05:50.193" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15366" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15356" CreationDate="2021-01-19T02:59:00.097" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The problem turned out to be that the two extruded pieces of aluminium on the z axis were too close together - I tightened the screws too tight. This made the gap between the z axis bars smaller than desired and the z movement only lifted one side of the bar in the beginning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After I loosed those screws holding the gantry crane on, everything works now!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26364" LastActivityDate="2021-01-19T02:59:00.097" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15369" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2996" CreationDate="2021-01-19T13:37:41.010" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yesterday I has same error with board MKS Robin Nano with Marlin 2.0.6.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Try to find and uncomment this definition:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#define ENDSTOP_INTERRUPTS_FEATURE&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Failure was in disabled endstop interrupts and broken part of code, which going to home and unchecks endstop status between steps. But if you activated endstop before sending homing command - it will work as needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26385" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2021-01-19T15:17:33.430" LastActivityDate="2021-01-19T15:17:33.430" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15370" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15372" CreationDate="2021-01-19T14:33:41.733" Score="0" ViewCount="145" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've recently got an Elegoo Mars-like resin printer which is called Voxelab Polaris. So far, I have a lot of success with it, but one piece is proving really tough to print and I'm hoping for advice!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2035221&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;These Settlers Of Catan tiles&lt;/a&gt; are natively about 90x97 mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's too big to print flat on my 130x82x155 mm print bed, so I've been trying to print it at a variety of angles including vertically. When printed vertical, it tends to warp along the long axis, and when done at an angle including supports there's not enough landing area to stick it to the print bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've tried printing two together back-to-back, but in Chitubox I can't find a way to add supports between two pieces on the bed (only from each piece to the bed).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyone got any insights about how I might print this in resin?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26382" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2021-01-19T17:20:28.183" LastActivityDate="2021-01-21T13:28:25.573" Title="Resin printing on Voxelab Polaris" Tags="|resin|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15371" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="423" CreationDate="2021-01-19T16:13:05.117" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Wood PLA is too abrasive for a brass nozzle and will wear it out until it becomes a straight pipe after about 12 hours of printing with it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This answer is based on first hand experimentation. I'm attaching photographic evidence of what to expect if you do not use hardened steel at minimum for Wood PLA.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This image shows that the nozzle after a 48 hour print is a complete straight pipe. It was mostly a straight pipe after about 12 hours. I let the print complete to take stock of the entire result.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AlFK6.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AlFK6.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Nozzle Straight Pipe&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here I am measuring a piece of filament that's been extruded after running the Wood PLA through the nozzle for 48 hours.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BtkVl.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BtkVl.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Extruded filament measuring at 1.7 mm&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And here is how the layers degrade. When the issue started I thought maybe I had a clog, however my extruder was exhibiting perfect extrusion behaviour. The result looks like inconsistent flow, and it is. The extruder is moving at a rate appropriate for a 0.4 mm output, but the nozzle is now 1.7 mm wide.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zWWgY.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zWWgY.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Layer degradation as print continues&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25792" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-01-19T23:00:52.113" LastActivityDate="2021-01-19T23:00:52.113" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15372" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15370" CreationDate="2021-01-19T17:24:12.053" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you want to print flat, you could easily print all parts at 90 %: the bounding box dimensions now are 81.16 x 88 mm - and as a result, you can print some other parts flat next to it but not more than one tile at the same time. Remember to print all cities and roads at 90 % too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastActivityDate="2021-01-19T17:24:12.053" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15373" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-01-19T20:17:14.670" Score="1" ViewCount="7369" Body="&lt;p&gt;I installed a BLTouch probe on my Ender 3 V2 and am able to manually generate the probe matrix and store it in the printer memory, but I can't figure out how to get Cura to run the probe for every print. I have included &lt;code&gt;G29&lt;/code&gt; in my start code, but the printer doesn't run the probe. Here is my full start code:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;M201 X500.00 Y500.00 Z100.00 E5000.00 ;Setup machine max acceleration&#xA;M203 X500.00 Y500.00 Z10.00 E50.00 ;Setup machine max feedrate&#xA;M204 P500.00 R1000.00 T500.00 ;Setup Print/Retract/Travel acceleration&#xA;M205 X8.00 Y8.00 Z0.40 E5.00 ;Setup Jerk&#xA;M220 S100 ;Reset Feedrate&#xA;M221 S100 ;Reset Flowrate&#xA;&#xA;G28 ;Home&#xA;&#xA;G92 E0 ;Reset Extruder&#xA;&#xA;G29 ;BLTouch&#xA;&#xA;G1 Z2.0 F3000 ;Move Z Axis up&#xA;G1 X10.1 Y20 Z0.28 F5000.0 ;Move to start position&#xA;G1 X10.1 Y200.0 Z0.28 F1500.0 E15 ;Draw the first line&#xA;G1 X10.4 Y200.0 Z0.28 F5000.0 ;Move to side a little&#xA;G1 X10.4 Y20 Z0.28 F1500.0 E30 ;Draw the second line&#xA;G92 E0 ;Reset Extruder&#xA;G1 Z2.0 F3000 ;Move Z Axis up&#xA;&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I inspect the G-code directly, I can see that &lt;code&gt;G29&lt;/code&gt; is getting transpiled into&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;M501 ;load bed level data&#xA;M420 S1 ;enable bed leveling&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;is this correct? If not, how do I stop the transpilation?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26395" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-01-19T22:35:25.040" LastActivityDate="2021-02-08T14:51:59.193" Title="I can't get G29 to run BLTouch on my Ender 3 V2" Tags="|creality-ender-3|g-code|bed-leveling|bltouch|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15374" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-01-20T00:39:19.087" Score="1" ViewCount="2387" Body="&lt;p&gt;My CR-10 S5 has a feature, that stops the print, when the filament runs out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, when the printer pauses, the bed cools down and the print plops if the bed. Is there a way to tell the printer to keep the bed heated, when paused (by the runout detector)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26397" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-01-20T09:06:39.343" LastActivityDate="2021-01-26T08:49:03.743" Title="Bed heating stops when paused by filament runout sensor" Tags="|heated-bed|adhesion|fdm|creality-cr-10|filament-sensor|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15376" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15374" CreationDate="2021-01-20T10:57:57.123" Score="1" Body="&lt;h1&gt;There is no easy way to keep the bed heated during pause&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looking at the sourcecode, I am pretty sure that the current version (10/29/2019) keeps the heated bed at the right temperature.&#xA;Features are built into the firmware. You need an Arduino and some wires to write new firmware to the built-in SOC. Adjusting the code should be as simple as commenting a single line.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That is some serious shortcoming of the CR-10 S5! I can't imagine a reason why not to leave the heated bed on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The command that keeps the heated bed at temperature is in Marlin_main.cpp:5664:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/134SwAcHc2dytvZLdfni10s3DteeAkMlL&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Source code link&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4708" LastEditorUserId="4708" LastEditDate="2021-01-26T08:49:03.743" LastActivityDate="2021-01-26T08:49:03.743" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15377" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-01-20T12:59:32.443" Score="1" ViewCount="1884" Body="&lt;p&gt;After a long battle with SKR Mini v2, TFT35 and BLTouch and creating the right firmware. I thought I was through it all and ready to start printing again after finally being able to set the Z offset and auto level the bed. My printer has other thoughts. Now my bed temperature will only heat up to 10 °C below the set point temperature and after a few minutes it starts beeping and says this on the screen &amp;quot;&lt;code&gt;Heating Failed: Bed Printer Halted, Please Reset&lt;/code&gt;&amp;quot;. As an example, set it to 60 °C, it will get up to 50 °C normally and stop at 50 °C.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyone gone through this? I'm sure there is some setting in the firmware that I have missed up. I'm hoping someone can educate me on my mistake.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26408" LastEditorUserId="4922" LastEditDate="2021-07-19T17:38:36.200" LastActivityDate="2021-07-19T17:42:13.910" Title="Why does my Ender 5 Pro bed stop heating 10 °C below the set point?" Tags="|heated-bed|creality-ender-5|temperature|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15378" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15374" CreationDate="2021-01-20T13:39:20.237" Score="1" Body="&lt;h1&gt;It's in the firmware&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Filament runout sensors generally trigger &lt;code&gt;M600&lt;/code&gt;. &lt;strong&gt;Usually&lt;/strong&gt; that preserves the bed temperature, but some firmware distributions might have this set up wrong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;How is M600 working?&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The firmware dictates what is done in case of filament runout. The standard settings in &lt;a href=&quot;https://marlinfw.org/docs/configuration/configuration.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;code&gt;configuration.h&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/a&gt; can look like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;//#define FILAMENT_RUNOUT_SENSOR&#xA;#if ENABLED(FILAMENT_RUNOUT_SENSOR)&#xA;  #define NUM_RUNOUT_SENSORS   1     // Number of sensors, up to one per extruder. Define a FIL_RUNOUT#_PIN for each.&#xA;  #define FIL_RUNOUT_INVERTING false // Set to true to invert the logic of the sensor.&#xA;  #define FIL_RUNOUT_PULLUP          // Use internal pullup for filament runout pins.&#xA;  //#define FIL_RUNOUT_PULLDOWN      // Use internal pulldown for filament runout pins.&#xA;&#xA;  // Set one or more commands to execute on filament runout.&#xA;  // (After 'M412 H' Marlin will ask the host to handle the process.)&#xA;  #define FILAMENT_RUNOUT_SCRIPT &amp;quot;M600&amp;quot;&#xA;&#xA;  // After a runout is detected, continue printing this length of filament&#xA;  // before executing the runout script. Useful for a sensor at the end of&#xA;  // a feed tube. Requires 4 bytes SRAM per sensor, plus 4 bytes overhead.&#xA;  //#define FILAMENT_RUNOUT_DISTANCE_MM 25&#xA;&#xA;  #ifdef FILAMENT_RUNOUT_DISTANCE_MM&#xA;    // Enable this option to use an encoder disc that toggles the runout pin&#xA;    // as the filament moves. (Be sure to set FILAMENT_RUNOUT_DISTANCE_MM&#xA;    // large enough to avoid false positives.)&#xA;    //#define FILAMENT_MOTION_SENSOR&#xA;  #endif&#xA;#endif&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, we need to see what &lt;a href=&quot;https://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M600.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;code&gt;M600&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/a&gt; does. M600 is configured in some way:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The settings for this command can be found in Configuration_adv.h.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, you need to reconfigure how M600 behaves... &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gwHpXaj_6xE&amp;amp;feature=youtu.be&amp;amp;ab_channel=TeachingTech&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Here's how to properly do it in 1.1.8/1.1.9&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;https://crosslink.io/2020/07/17/marlin-2-0-m600-filament-change-setup-explained/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;how does it actually work in the first place in 2.0?&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, make sure the line &lt;code&gt;#define ADVANCED_PAUSE_FEATURE&lt;/code&gt; has no leading &lt;code&gt;//&lt;/code&gt; in &lt;code&gt;configuration_adv.h&lt;/code&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Make sure you have &lt;code&gt;#define FILAMENT_RUNOUT_SENSOR&lt;/code&gt; uncommented with no leading &lt;code&gt;//&lt;/code&gt; in &lt;code&gt;configuration.h&lt;/code&gt;. Typically, it just calls &lt;code&gt;M600&lt;/code&gt;. You can replace the line with any other line of commands, for example have it play music or abort the print, or just dwell for a couple minutes and beep tragically. The factory setup for M600 contains safety setup: &amp;quot;if not attended in time - shut down. This includes shutting down the heated bed.&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But where is the actual M600 defined? Oh, that's sneakily hidden in &lt;code&gt;Marlin_main.ccp&lt;/code&gt; for 1.1.9... and oddly enough it does &lt;strong&gt;not&lt;/strong&gt; call to turn off the heated bed unless it goes into &lt;em&gt;did nothing cooldown&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2021-01-21T14:30:36.347" LastActivityDate="2021-01-21T14:30:36.347" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15379" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-01-20T19:49:15.383" Score="0" ViewCount="448" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am having an issue with prints set on the right side of my printer bed. I have leveled the bed, have a BLTouch and used a bed visualizer just to try and get it manually as level as possible. You can see the problem on the right piece side of this print where the filament was not laid flat and has many &amp;quot;humps&amp;quot; unlike the left piece side of the print that printed smoothly. Any idea what could cause this on an Ender 3 Pro and how to go about fixing it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/h85sX.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/h85sX.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;3d printer problems&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26414" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-01-20T22:58:05.907" LastActivityDate="2021-01-24T05:52:36.723" Title="Printing problem on right half of printer" Tags="|print-quality|creality-ender-3|calibration|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15381" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15409" CreationDate="2021-01-21T09:23:48.733" Score="2" ViewCount="970" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm printing with Geeetech A20 printer, PLA.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've started printing the same test piece while changing the following parameters:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Temperature from 215 °C to 195 °C (lowering by 5 °C on each print)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Flow multiplier from 100 % to 120 % (increasing 5 % on each print)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Speed on two first prints was 60 mm/s and on two last 40 mm/s&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bed leveling is perfect, the hardware seems to be in tact, the nozzle is clean and still the walls on the outer curve print well all the time, but in the inner circle they seem to be under extruded (even though flow is up to 120 %)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am planning on going on with these tests until I get the perfect print, but I am hoping somebody can guide me on what to try next.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've been reading about the issues on so many articles that now my head is a mess and I just need some clear instructions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/il3g6.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/il3g6.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/l3o7q.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/l3o7q.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Zcm7v.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Zcm7v.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Tpxs1.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Tpxs1.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/525hT.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/525hT.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xW3yS.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xW3yS.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26420" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-01-21T09:43:49.597" LastActivityDate="2021-01-22T18:53:06.927" Title="Top layer and walls have gaps even with 120 % flow (Cura)" Tags="|underextrusion|geeetech|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15382" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-01-21T12:48:40.043" Score="0" ViewCount="1266" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm facing a strange issue where my printer is over-extruding only for the first 6-8 layers (layer height of 0.2 mm).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All the layers above that have no such issue, which, as far as I understand, rules out any extrusion settings misconfiguration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, I'd like to note that the hotbed is perfectly leveled, and the first layer is not too thin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What could be causing this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/J2mSY.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/J2mSY.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;3D printed part over extrusion&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;My setup:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Printer: Creality CR-10S Pro&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Filament: eSun PLA&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hotbed temp: 60 °C&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hotend temp: 210 °C&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Infill: 20 %&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Layer height: 0.2 mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Nozzle Size: 0.4 mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Speed: 60 mm/s&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="24962" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-01-21T13:25:17.720" LastActivityDate="2021-01-21T13:46:01.210" Title="Printer is over extruding for the first few layers" Tags="|extrusion|creality-cr-10|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15384" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15382" CreationDate="2021-01-21T13:46:01.210" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Depending on your slicer, there might be settings that modify the flow ratio, First layer height or extrusion width for the first few layers. If those are different from the modifiers for the rest of the print you might be able to play around with these variables.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26426" LastActivityDate="2021-01-21T13:46:01.210" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15385" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15386" CreationDate="2021-01-21T16:46:23.413" Score="1" ViewCount="141" Body="&lt;p&gt;Recently I’ve been having trouble leveling my bed on my &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Creality&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Creality&lt;/a&gt; Ender 3 Pro.  It’s not that it’s hard to level or anything, it’s that it won’t stay level for more than a day or two.  I’ve been leveling it the same way as always with a piece of paper and I’ve been sure to disable steppers.  So if anyone knows what I can do about this, please let me know.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26394" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2021-01-21T23:56:38.207" LastActivityDate="2021-01-22T00:01:00.877" Title="What’s the best way of leveling the bed?" Tags="|creality-ender-3|bed-leveling|calibration|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15386" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15385" CreationDate="2021-01-21T18:32:46.613" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Generally, there is no &lt;em&gt;best&lt;/em&gt; way, there are only the ways that work for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;I&lt;/strong&gt; use a feeler gauge, mounted on a detachable holder. I home to 0, lift the Z by 1 mm, and then level the bed to the same number on the screws and corners. Then I home back to Z=0 and perform an extrusion test, and if that is not satisfactory, use a different number for the leveling. The number on the plunger does not generally read 1 mm, as there is an offset between the 0 of the gauge and the printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I don't level from 0 or am in a hurry, I usually only alter leveling by doing about 2-5° turns on all the screws to adjust the 0-height via the nuts, using the visual of the printed line as my aide. This only works because I have the experience how a good first layer should look like.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another typical method that I stopped using once I had the feeler gauge is the paper, but I found it inconsistent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Do not do these:&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Leveling the bed with a level does &lt;strong&gt;not&lt;/strong&gt; lead to good prints - your print bed needs to be parallel to the movement of the printhead, not to the earth!&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2021-01-22T00:01:00.877" LastActivityDate="2021-01-22T00:01:00.877" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15388" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12056" CreationDate="2021-01-21T20:09:14.193" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had similar issues during the past few days. My first 3~5 layers overlapped. I ended up with figuring out it was the screws to mount Z stepper became loose and the stepper shifted itself downwards instead shifting up the nozzle for the first several layers, until the stepper had nowhere to go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26430" LastActivityDate="2021-01-21T20:09:14.193" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15391" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-01-21T20:52:06.650" Score="1" ViewCount="573" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am looking to 3D print some small molds that will allow wood glue to dry but &lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;not&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt; stick.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a recommended filament that is known to &lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;resist&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt; binding to simple wood glue?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternately, is there an inexpensive adhesive (like wood glue) I could use instead that will &lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;not&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt; stick to the 3D printed mold?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26431" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2021-01-22T06:54:32.787" LastActivityDate="2021-01-22T14:07:57.370" Title="Filament that will not stick to wood glue?" Tags="|filament-choice|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15392" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15393" CreationDate="2021-01-21T21:49:53.873" Score="1" ViewCount="2510" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been dealing with 3D printing for 1.5 years, but now own a CR-6 SE myself since the beginning of 2021. Most things are already quite clear but for 2 days I have had a problem with the adhesion of the prints.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Nearly all prints I have done so far used the filament shipped with the printer (PLA 1.75) and they came off the building plate after some cooling time by themselves. I used the default printer settings for PLA: 200 °C nozzle temperature, 60 °C printing bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then 2 days ago the prints began to not stick to the bed anymore and I thought this could be because of dust and from touching the bed. So I cleaned the bed with IPA. The microfiber towel was yellowish afterward - so I thought that this must have been printing residues. Since then every print is kind of &amp;quot;welded&amp;quot; to the bed. There is no chance of loosening it without more IPA or way too much force.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I already tried:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;cleaning the bed with clean water - unfortunately, didn't work&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;setting the Z-offset from 0.1 back to 0.2 mm - also no success&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Today I also tried a spool of brand new PETG, with the following recommended settings: 240 °C nozzle temperature, 80 °C print bed - but the problem stayed the same.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Am I doing something wrong? Did I destroy the &amp;quot;Carborundum&amp;quot; coating (silicon carbide) of the glass plate?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26432" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-03-03T22:02:22.823" LastActivityDate="2021-03-11T15:02:44.890" Title="CR-6 SE glass build plate - no lifting possible" Tags="|adhesion|build-plate|creality-cr-6|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15393" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15392" CreationDate="2021-01-21T22:29:17.843" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is likely the surface was damaged by the chemical cleaning, based on your description and &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/15392/cr-6-se-glass-build-plate-no-lifting-possible#comment28974_15392&quot;&gt;octopus8's comment&lt;/a&gt;. If you are unable to mechanically release the print, there is a chemical method that has worked for me (and at least one other SE user) in the past.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bring the bed up to about 40 °C and turn off the heat to the bed. Apply with a dropper or swab a 50/50 mixture of denatured alcohol and water. It will seep under the part as well as evaporate. Attempt the mechanical release. If it fails, apply additional mixture and repeat. Continue to do this until the mixture does not evaporate as quickly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the part has not released, it may be necessary to repeat the heating and application.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you wish to return to &amp;quot;normal&amp;quot; circumstances, a bed replacement is indicated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-01-21T22:47:01.683" LastActivityDate="2021-01-21T22:47:01.683" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15394" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15391" CreationDate="2021-01-22T00:14:50.063" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You are looking for a filament that does not bond to wood glue, or as weak as possible. You misunderstand how wood glue &amp;quot;bonds&amp;quot; to plastics:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wood glue is typically PVA. It &lt;em&gt;bonds&lt;/em&gt; to wood and paper by seeping into them before curing and hardening. The mesh of the glue entangles fibers of the wood/paper and itself, bonding with not only the exposed surface but also with material up to the depth it penetrates.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When such a glue is applied to a typical print surface, it seeps into the cracks and through print imperfections but does not penetrate the print to the same degree as it does in the open wood fiber setup. It clings to the surface and only bonds - if it does - only to the surface layers. The &lt;em&gt;same&lt;/em&gt; effect happens when you cast resin into for example a silicone mold: there is much less chemical bonding, at best at the interface, and quite some interlock.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To prevent such, two things should be made: first, you need to smooth the mold as much as possible and have all the angles right.  It might be easier and faster to coat the hard molds in a smooth lacquer, which not only removes the creep areas but also acts as an interlayer, making release easier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then, you should use a mold release agent. Mold release agents come in many shapes: I have seen Talcum Powder being used effectively for both metal as well as cold casts, if the shape of the mold was well made (no undercuts, no unpowdered areas). Easier to apply are usually mold release sprays for many applications - careful, some are PVA based and would be the same as the glue you want to cast. For a concrete casting, I had used plant fat as a decent mold release agent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What might be an alternative to wood glue depends on what you want to do with the finished product.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as materials that actively don't bond go, you could look into POM (Which is a pain to print and expensive - it's a bearing material) or nylon (also a pain to print).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2021-01-22T14:06:52.420" LastActivityDate="2021-01-22T14:06:52.420" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15395" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-01-22T03:12:31.807" Score="0" ViewCount="829" Body="&lt;p&gt;After a year of printing smaller models, I finally went to print something that would take up most of the build plate from left to right and realized that my nozzle cannot reach &amp;quot;true&amp;quot; X home.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As seen in this picture:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/h4oFv.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/h4oFv.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;the X-axis endstop does not allow a true X0, thus losing me precious mm of print space! I over-exaggerate, but truly is there any way to shift the X-axis more to the left or the Y axis/build plate more to the right to gain full bed usage?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additional photo showing that the actual hotend plate is hitting the endstop:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/b5NRV.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/b5NRV.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this an Ender 3 problem in general that I have missed in my internet searches on this or is it just a manufacturing lottery that I unfortunately lost?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26436" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-01-22T14:55:52.070" LastActivityDate="2021-06-21T16:11:06.747" Title="Ender 3 - X Axis Cannot Reach True Home" Tags="|creality-ender-3|endstop|x-axis|print-axis-offset|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15396" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15395" CreationDate="2021-01-22T06:58:18.593" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You do have hit the true home. You will have to physically move the endstop to alter that position. Your problem is, that the endstop-home is on the build area - and that is printer dependant. My Ender 3 has about 4 mm diagonal distance from the bed in its physical home, for which I accounted via a firmware swap, including a &amp;quot;virtual&amp;quot; firmware home.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastActivityDate="2021-01-22T06:58:18.593" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15400" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15391" CreationDate="2021-01-22T14:00:22.337" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Considering my experience, SOME nylons don't bond to PVA at all. I tried at 70 °C and 110 °C and my nylon print can be pulled out from it manually with almost no resistance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's however difficult to know which type of nylon, since I used a trimmer line of unknown composition (except that it should be mainly nylon).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2338" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2021-01-22T14:07:57.370" LastActivityDate="2021-01-22T14:07:57.370" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15402" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15392" CreationDate="2021-01-22T15:18:13.540" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sounds like the bed came with a coating on it.  If you can't find out what the coating is, but believe you already removed it, you could try glue sticks or hair spray.  You can also find glue sticks specified for 3D printing.  Elmer's glue sticks work.  I'm yet to try glue sticks specified for a 3D printer.  You can Search on 3D Printing for answers where people used adhesive sprays.  The link in octopus8's comment mentions a resin coating.  There are resin coatings being sold for a bed adhesive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15075" LastActivityDate="2021-01-22T15:18:13.540" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15403" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15377" CreationDate="2021-01-22T16:59:47.263" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Searching the error message &amp;quot;Heating Failed: Bed Printer Halted, Please Reset&amp;quot; seems to indicate that the bed heater is timing out from not reaching temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If you measure the voltage applied to the bed heater before the error message, does the voltage stay at Max.; i.e. 12 V for a 12 V bed heater?  Or, does the voltage stay constant?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If you raise the target bed temperature, does is still error out at stop at 50 °C?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Since you only indicate changing firmware, we would assume the bed heater is the same as when previously working.  Is this true?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Is the resistance of the bed heater a few ohms and not megaohms?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15075" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-07-19T17:42:13.910" LastActivityDate="2021-07-19T17:42:13.910" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15404" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-01-22T17:10:51.997" Score="1" ViewCount="173" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have E3D Volcano and want to upgrade my CR-10 mini.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Found instructions how to change E3D Hotend for CR-10, but can't find any with CR-10 mini. Could I use same instruction that was made for CR-10?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or better upgrade my Ender V2 with that E3D Volcano Hotend?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="24982" LastEditorUserId="24982" LastEditDate="2021-01-31T19:10:03.600" LastActivityDate="2021-01-31T19:10:03.600" Title="How to install E3D Volcano to CR-10 mini?" Tags="|creality-ender-3|hotend|creality-cr-10|e3d|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15405" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15242" CreationDate="2021-01-22T17:29:36.050" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't know about PVP but PVA sticks more at room temperature and gets weaker at higher temperatures, see &lt;a href=&quot;https://bioresources.cnr.ncsu.edu/resources/influence-of-temperature-on-the-strength-of-bonded-joints/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&amp;quot;Influence of temperature on the strength of bonded joints&amp;quot;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KB1lM.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KB1lM.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I remember using hairspray with PVA for PETG and it was really difficult to detach large parts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2338" LastActivityDate="2021-01-22T17:29:36.050" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15407" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15485" CreationDate="2021-01-22T18:16:15.303" Score="0" ViewCount="2610" Body="&lt;p&gt;Printer: Ender 3&#xA;Bed: Creality Glass&#xA;ABL: BLTouch&#xA;Everything else: Stock&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Few weeks ago I had a meltdown during a failed ABS print. My hotend was completely wrapped in plastic and trying to remove said plastic I snagged the termistor. Anyway I had to replace the nozzle, hotend and thermistor. Everything on here. I went ahead and measured the Nozzle BLTouch needle offsets and re-flashed my Ender 3 with TH3D Firmware and configured BLTouch. After which I adjusted the Z offset again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All good here. BLTouch appears to work, well at least it appears so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I started printing and I see that my bed always hangs lower on the right side and BLTouch does not compensate for this difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pY1ak.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pY1ak.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HJdYB.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HJdYB.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Manual leveling (with a heated bed, also tried without)&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Auto home&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Move Z axis from 5 to 0&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Move the head to each corner of the bed&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Adjust the corner hight using the paper method (repeat 2x for each corner)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Auto home&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Move Z axis from 5 to 0&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Go to Z offset, and move it until it tugs on the paper.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Save and Auto home&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But this did not solve the issue. When I move the head to Z0 (with the offset) in the centre it's perfect. Moving it to left gets close to the board, right goes way away from the board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Belts &amp;amp; screws&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Went and tightened all the belts and all the screws.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;X Axis alignment&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;I set the Z axis to the max 250. And measure the distance from top of the X axis to top of the frame. There is no difference in the left, right or centre of x axis to the top of the printer. Same for distance from bottom part of the frame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I cleaned the belts and the wheels with a soft brush. Not sure what else to do. I'm giving up on Creality/Ender :(&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26448" LastActivityDate="2021-01-28T16:06:33.383" Title="BLTouch does not compensate for differences in bed level" Tags="|creality-ender-3|bed-leveling|bltouch|glass-bed|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15408" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-01-22T18:38:57.363" Score="0" ViewCount="931" Body="&lt;p&gt;Even when trying to level the bed, the max I can get the bed to the nozzle is pretty large.  I cannot level any higher (please see pic).&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ryivd.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ryivd.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26449" LastActivityDate="2021-01-22T19:47:53.250" Title="Ender 3 Pro distance between nozzle and bed too large" Tags="|creality-ender-3|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15409" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15381" CreationDate="2021-01-22T18:53:06.927" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You are lowering temperature and increase the flow at the same time - which is contradictory (filament is less runny, but you pump more of it). Though 195 °C seems to be very safe for printing PLA at 40 mm/s. Just doublecheck that when you disable motors, and push filament with hand, it melts quickly and easily goes out. Otherwise you will deal with temperature-related issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Outer walls are usually printed slower, and even when underextruded, part of line may appear constant thanks to leaking filament (it has time). Next retraction will cause stop leaking, and the other wall is printed with almost no pressure. Maybe your constant issue with &amp;quot;inner circle&amp;quot; is just a consequence of such moves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My suggestions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Did you calibrate the extruder (steps per mm)? - if not yet, do it (it's a basic skill); to quickly check if this could help, try to continue increasing flow by 5% and observe what will happen then, because maybe this is simple underextrusion due to incorrect steps/mm?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Are you sure that extruder motor is not loosing steps? (e.g. too weak motor against the pressure)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Are you sure that filament is not slipping? (e.g. blunt driver's teeth, or too loose idler)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Could you unintentionally enable &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/13451/ender-3-underextrusion/13480#13480&quot;&gt;volumetric extrusion&lt;/a&gt;?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26170" LastActivityDate="2021-01-22T18:53:06.927" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15410" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15408" CreationDate="2021-01-22T19:47:53.250" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your springs are &lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;WAY&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt; too much compressed. Turn them loose into the &amp;quot;UP&amp;quot; direction till you are almost at the bed and then level your bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rjy7R.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rjy7R.png&quot; alt=&quot;THIS way&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastActivityDate="2021-01-22T19:47:53.250" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15412" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15426" CreationDate="2021-01-23T05:38:25.853" Score="2" ViewCount="172" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Lulzbot TAZ 4 and am using Lulzbot Cura for slicing, printing with HIPS.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yesterday, I tried a print, only for this to happen:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BPSOG.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Failed print 1&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BPSOG.png&quot; alt=&quot;Failed print 1&quot; title=&quot;Failed print 1&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It appears that the printer got most of the way through printing the part, and then for no apparent reason lowered the nozzle into the part (causing it to detach from the bed), raised the nozzle back up, and then to continue trying to print like nothing happened.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I thought maybe the G-code file got corrupted when transferring to the SD card (a single bit-flip could cause exactly this problem). So I generated the G-code again with exactly the same settings, and the same thing happened again but in a slightly different place and a few layers further up the model:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/o6eP0.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Failed print 2&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/o6eP0.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Failed print 2&quot; title=&quot;Failed print 2&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have previously printed exactly the same model, only mirrored, with the same settings, and did not have this problem. I've never seen anything like this. Does anyone know what is going on?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26453" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2021-01-23T06:13:12.190" LastActivityDate="2021-01-24T18:52:11.933" Title="3D printer destroys part by lowering nozzle" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|troubleshooting|lulzbot|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15413" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15463" CreationDate="2021-01-23T08:25:29.673" Score="2" ViewCount="1169" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use Slic3r to create G-codes for my Labists ET4 printer. Usually, no problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, as soon as I tried to start a print, the nozzle head went down as usual, but this time it went a bit lower than 0 and the machine made angry noises for less than a second.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It went back up again and heated the bed and the nozzle, only to go back down too strongly with angry noises again. Even left a little pokey hole on the bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I got scared and turned the machine's switch off and manually raised the Z axis with ease.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Never had this problem before and now I'm afraid to turn on my machine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've had the following setup for G-codes prior to today's incident and it had worked just fine:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;G28 ; Home extruder&#xA;G1 Z15 F[travel_speed]&#xA;M106 S[max_fan_speed]; Turn on fan&#xA;G90 ; Absolute positioning&#xA;M82 ; Extruder in absolute mode&#xA;; Activate all used extruder&#xA;M104 T0 S[first_layer_temperature]&#xA;M190 S[bed_temperature]&#xA;G92 E0 ; Reset extruder position&#xA;; Wait for all used extruders to reach temperature&#xA;M109 T0 S[first_layer_temperature]&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After this, I did try the auto levelling, however it still tried to plow into the bed, albeit not as angrily.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's other things to potentially consider:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I haven't used the machine 10 days.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It's been chilly in the room where the machine is.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So here's my questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&amp;quot;What could cause a 3D printer to have an incorrect impression of Z-axis=0 even in absolute position mode?&amp;quot;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&amp;quot;What can I do to fix it?&amp;quot;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23750" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-01-27T10:34:43.727" LastActivityDate="2021-01-27T10:34:43.727" Title="Labists ET4 printer nozzle hits bed after automatic levelling" Tags="|z-axis|labists-et4|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15415" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-01-23T23:02:47.940" Score="0" ViewCount="270" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just installed a BLTouch clone on my Ender 3 Pro with a standard 1.1.4 board. The sensor seems to work but is giving me problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I used the Teaching Tech tutorial on YouTube to install it, but after I had issues with the Marlin 1.1.9 bug fix. After that and some more reading about the issues and the clone sensors, I removed the capacitor next to the Z-stop but was still having issues (it just wouldn’t stop at the bed). Thus I went back to the original Ender 3 Pro firmware, released by Creality on January 20th.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As said, the sensor now is working, but when auto homing it doesn’t move an inch on the Z-axis. Instead, as soon as it should home on Z, it directly thinks it has hit home. See this clip I made: &lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/-YfYpT8Y6mw?start=0&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I’m hoping any of you have a clue what I’m doing wrong, or how to fix this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26463" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-01-23T23:18:18.417" LastActivityDate="2021-01-23T23:18:18.417" Title="Ender 3 Pro &amp; BLTouch clone issue" Tags="|creality-ender-3|troubleshooting|bed-leveling|bltouch|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15416" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-01-23T23:55:09.510" Score="0" ViewCount="29" Body="&lt;p&gt;I need to print so many of this model:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4160638&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4160638&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vTjgq.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vTjgq.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I print just one of them, the printer head has a focus on one area and prints it with the least amount of head movement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I print a batch of them, the printer head needs to keep moving to the area of each object. It seems that increased print time is not a linear multiple of the number of objects. It is more than that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wanted to ask everyone's experience to see if I am missing anything here. Is it true that it is quicker if I print one object at a time multiple times, as opposed to printing a batch of them?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25720" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-01-24T01:04:12.253" LastActivityDate="2021-01-24T01:04:12.253" Title="Is is true that it is quicker if I print one object at a time multiple times, as opposed to printing a batch of them?" Tags="|speed|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2021-01-24T11:39:18.603" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15417" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15422" CreationDate="2021-01-24T02:49:42.963" Score="2" ViewCount="1800" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am using PLA and I am looking for ideas on using the &lt;code&gt;Tune&lt;/code&gt; option to tune my Prusa i3 MK3 to increase the speed to 300 %.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The 300 % speed works perfectly fine for some of the models.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, for some of the flat surfaces, the printer cannot handle the speed. The issues are pointed in the image below:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Hm8p0.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Hm8p0.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems that printer is struggling to supply enough filament.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I solve the issue by using the &lt;code&gt;Tune&lt;/code&gt; menu by changing settings like temperature or flow?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Answer:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While @dandavis is informative, but this is how I did it:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;increasing z offset so nuzzle has enough space to dispense.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Increase temperature +10&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please note that this degrades the print quality, but I am just printing a few organizer boxes. Quality is not essential and not something I expect from a 300% speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25720" LastEditorUserId="25720" LastEditDate="2021-01-26T21:38:57.183" LastActivityDate="2021-01-26T21:38:57.183" Title="Ideas to tune for 300 % speed" Tags="|prusa-i3|speed|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15418" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-01-24T04:20:04.460" Score="0" ViewCount="1178" Body="&lt;p&gt;The following setup seems printable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why do I get this error?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some objects are too tall and cannot be printed without extruder&#xA;collisions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FuGea.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FuGea.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25720" LastActivityDate="2021-01-25T19:45:39.953" Title="Squential Printing: Some objects are too tall and cannot be printed without extruder collisions" Tags="|prusaslicer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15419" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15379" CreationDate="2021-01-24T05:52:36.723" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your bed level according to the sensor and reality is changing between the time of probing and the time of printing. There is not enough info to determine exactly where the problem is, but the possible causes and solutions are most likely:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Bed or X-carriage is mechanically loose: ensure all axis and parts of the printer are tight, including the hot-end mount&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Bed temperature changes have affected the bed level: ensure the bed is at operating temperature during all manual and automated leveling&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Sensor is not reading correctly across the entire bed due to the magnetic sensitivity of the bed or hot-end heating elements: either enable the &lt;code&gt;PROBING_HEATERS_OFF&lt;/code&gt; compile-time feature in Marlin or disable the bed and hot-end heaters immediately prior to the automated bed leveling procedure using the code:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt; M140 S0; set bed temperature target to zero&#xA; M104 S0; set hot-end temperature target to zero&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;then turn them both back on to your desired temperature immediately afterward probing using the same M104 and M140 command syntax to their respective desired temperatures&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5906" LastActivityDate="2021-01-24T05:52:36.723" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15420" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7907" CreationDate="2021-01-24T08:19:31.700" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This post is quite old, but I describe how I solved this for anyone has the same problem I had: areas moved by the nozzle as the base of some appendices are too thin and tall.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In Cura 4.8 (I don't know since which version this feature is available) it is possible to add some custom shapes (cubes or cylinders) to your model. You can find this tool after move, resize, etc,, in the prepare page (left side icons).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So you can add some custom supports to protect from falling/moving some areas of a single model that need to be kept in place. These added parts can be moved and resized as you would do with the any other imported model.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found this very useful to avoid that the nozzle moves parts with a small base area that are connected to the rest of the model on a higher level and the lower part is not stable enough. Especially when printing TPU or other flexible filaments.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26471" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-01-24T11:44:13.257" LastActivityDate="2021-01-24T11:44:13.257" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15421" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15427" CreationDate="2021-01-24T09:28:16.120" Score="3" ViewCount="734" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was printing an object and it started to drag so I stopped it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Went to move the Z-axis up so I could clear the bed and Z-axis would not budge.&#xA;I switched the printer off and manually turned the motors to get the Z up.&#xA;Cleared the bed, switched on and homed the printer. When it came to home the Z, BLTouch deployed and then nothing. Motors will not turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Things I tried:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Recompiled the firmware (Marlin 2.0.x)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Different motors - Motors were free from the printer, just resting on a desk so I know it's not binding or anything.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Swapped stepper driver with a known working one.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Info about the printer:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;CR10s&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;SKR1.4 Turbo board&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;TMC2208 Steppers&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;BLTouch&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Octopi to control the printer.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Output of &lt;code&gt;M122&lt;/code&gt; for the Z:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Recv:       Z  &#xA;Recv: Address  &#xA;Recv: Enabled       false  &#xA;Recv: Set current   1000  &#xA;Recv: RMS current   994  &#xA;Recv: MAX current   1402  &#xA;Recv: Run current   17/31  &#xA;Recv: Hold current  8/31  &#xA;Recv: CS actual 8/31  &#xA;Recv: PWM scale  &#xA;Recv: vsense        0=.325  &#xA;Recv: stealthChop   true  &#xA;Recv: msteps        16  &#xA;Recv: tstep     max  &#xA;Recv: PWM thresh.   0  &#xA;Recv: [mm/s]        -  &#xA;Recv: OT prewarn    false  &#xA;Recv: triggered  &#xA;Recv:  OTP      false  &#xA;Recv: pwm scale sum 10  &#xA;Recv: pwm scale auto    0  &#xA;Recv: pwm offset auto   36  &#xA;Recv: pwm grad auto 14  &#xA;Recv: off time  4  &#xA;Recv: blank time    24  &#xA;Recv: hysteresis  &#xA;Recv:  -end     2  &#xA;Recv:  -start       1  &#xA;Recv: Stallguard thrs  &#xA;Recv: uStep count   40  &#xA;Recv: DRVSTATUS Z  &#xA;Recv: sg_result  &#xA;Recv: stst  &#xA;Recv: olb  &#xA;Recv: ola  &#xA;Recv: s2gb  &#xA;Recv: s2ga  &#xA;Recv: otpw  &#xA;Recv: to  &#xA;Recv: 157C  &#xA;Recv: 150C  &#xA;Recv: 143C  &#xA;Recv: 120C  &#xA;Recv: s2vsa  &#xA;Recv: s2vsb  &#xA;Recv: Driver registers:  &#xA;Recv:       Z   0xC0:08:00:00  &#xA;Recv:   &#xA;Recv:   &#xA;Recv: Testing Z connection... OK  &#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23645" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-02-02T08:18:13.993" LastActivityDate="2021-02-02T08:18:46.940" Title="Z axis no longer working on a working printer" Tags="|marlin|bltouch|creality-cr-10|tmc2208|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15422" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15417" CreationDate="2021-01-24T11:22:08.210" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;extruder clicking means you're getting backed up, grinding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Make the hotend hotter so you can melt filament 3X faster than expected; most materials have quite a range; aim high.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Slow down the cooling fan; a lot of them can cool the hotend.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You have a silicone boot on the nozzle? that will help some.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use a larger diameter nozzle to reduce backpressure and allow thicker layers.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Try cranking the feed rate&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lastly, consider that you simply might not get acceptable results pushing speed THAT much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10437" LastActivityDate="2021-01-24T11:22:08.210" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15423" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15417" CreationDate="2021-01-24T12:49:12.660" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Changing &amp;quot;Flow&amp;quot; will affect whole print. So even if it helped for the middle part (I doubt), the next it would ruin the print on sides by overextrusion. However: &lt;strong&gt;if sides are printed ok, then why the middle couldn't?&lt;/strong&gt; Because walls are printed slower? Indeed, the under-extrusion may quickly rise along with speed because of plastic deformation between extruder gears under pressure and slight slipping, which actually increases with speed. The video &amp;quot;&lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/0xRtypDjNvI?t=301&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;How fast can your hotend print?&lt;/a&gt;&amp;quot; presents experiment on this phenomena and its outcomes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then we go into master question: &lt;strong&gt;300% of what?&lt;/strong&gt; Turning the speed knob during print will override all considerations that slicer took into account during calculations - and defintely override &lt;a href=&quot;https://help.prusa3d.com/en/article/max-volumetric-speed_127176&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Max volumetric speed&lt;/a&gt;, which is key factor to limit &lt;strong&gt;pressure in the nozzle&lt;/strong&gt; (vide clicking noise).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The real limit seems to be this middle part of print, and outer part is just cosmetics (probably calculated to print slower because of quality). So if you ensure, that printing these middle surfaces is &lt;strong&gt;planned (in G-Code) with similar speed&lt;/strong&gt; as walls, then (at least in theory) you may be able to increase overall speed, playing e.g. only with temperature. (I actually mean the speed of extrusion, so this may not be simple as just setting equal speed for perimeters and infill, but this does not change the conclusion below.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I say &lt;strong&gt;all it starts in the slicer&lt;/strong&gt; software: increase speed there and re-caclulate. This will ensure to not exceed key limitations. Then you may manipulate maximal values in slicer for further experimentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26170" LastEditorUserId="26170" LastEditDate="2021-01-25T22:35:04.140" LastActivityDate="2021-01-25T22:35:04.140" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15424" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-01-24T16:25:03.923" Score="3" ViewCount="872" Body="&lt;p&gt;So to set the backdrop of this post, I was cleaning the hotend of a printer (Powerspec i3 Mini v2, which is a Wanhao i3 Mini rebadged and heated bed added) I picked up for cheap. There was some stubborn residue so I decided to warm the end. However, while it was still plugged in and warming I saw a spark while using the brass brush on the nozzle. Not sure where it actually sparked (thermistor or heater cartridge wires) but now the board constantly reads 193 °C for the hotend whether or not it is hot (or even plugged in for that matter.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looking around this seems to indicate either a bad thermistor or a messed up mainboard.  The thermistor will read ~120k resistance at room temp and fluctuate based on temp changes (ice will cause it to go down, heat will cause it to rise), so can I take that to mean the thermistor is most likely still okay?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Doing some probing on the board, it seems the resistor that makes up the voltage divider on the thermistor circuit is out of spec (when probing it with a multimeter it reads only 470 ohms instead of 4.7k). Is this reading while in-circuit valid? Could this have been caused by a short in the thermistor? Can I build a small adapter to splice in a new 4.7k resistor? or will this just throw everything off more? If I were to build a new version of Marlin could I adjust something in there to get the temps back to something recognizable?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I figure since I got the printer for 40\$ I may as well use it as a learning experience.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, if anyone has the original firmware from this printer I would appreciate a copy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26400" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-01-24T23:32:47.600" LastActivityDate="2023-06-14T04:04:10.500" Title="Thermistor reading 190 °C constantly" Tags="|electronics|thermistor|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15425" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15424" CreationDate="2021-01-24T18:00:49.967" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, in newest Marlin (v2.0) there are configurable thermistor parameters. You need to set &lt;strong&gt;custom thermistor&lt;/strong&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#define TEMP_SENSOR_0 1000&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;for your only extruder (suffix _0) in &lt;em&gt;Configuration.h&lt;/em&gt;, and in &lt;em&gt;Configuration_adv.h&lt;/em&gt; modify related section:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;//&#xA;// Custom Thermistor 1000 parameters&#xA;//&#xA;#if TEMP_SENSOR_0 == 1000&#xA;  #define HOTEND0_PULLUP_RESISTOR_OHMS 4700    // Pullup resistor&#xA;  #define HOTEND0_RESISTANCE_25C_OHMS  100000  // Resistance at 25C&#xA;  #define HOTEND0_BETA                 3950    // Beta value&#xA;#endif&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But in Marlin 1.x I couldn't find this section, so change would need to be done somewhere in thermistor definition source files. I mention this older Marlin following the discussion on &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/issues/12425&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Wanhao Duplicator i3 Mini &amp;amp; Rebrands Support&lt;/a&gt;, which refers to some Wanhao source code, but I cannot judge about value of it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For resistors in the circuit I have similar observations: sometimes they do not give exact readings using multimeter, especially next to capacitor. Isn't heatbed temp probe's circuit the same? - can you compare? But instead...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would suggest doing following things:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;open circuit test:&lt;/strong&gt; disconnect the thermistor and check readings (I could then see -19 °C)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;closed circuit test:&lt;/strong&gt; connect the heatbed's thermistor instead (in place of hotend's) and check if these readings are reliable (I would try to heat the bed for few seconds to check if changes are noticed, but not too long because it will be uncontrolled process)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;thermistor test:&lt;/strong&gt; connecting the hotend's thermistor as heatbed's probe and check on-screen readings for heated bed; are they again 193 °C? do they react to changes? (powering hotend for few secs or warming in fingers?)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;you may consider to setup USB connection with serial terminal to &lt;strong&gt;directly&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/3662/g-code-m-code-for-get-bed-temperature&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;read measurements&lt;/strong&gt; using G-Code&lt;/a&gt;, just to exclude errors in post-processing of the temperature readings before putting it to screen &lt;em&gt;(I know, it's a bit paranoic)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The worse thing I can imagine is that you could short wires of hotend heating circuit with the temperature probe circuit, which should be &lt;strong&gt;galvanically isolated&lt;/strong&gt;. Then it could damage readings of the mainboard for this probe when received 12V/24V. I found that the mainboard is most probably &lt;a href=&quot;https://wanhao.store/products/i3mini-0ne-motherboard-main-board&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;all-in-one i3mini 0ne+ motherboard, some revision still available in Wanhao store&lt;/a&gt; for another $40. I googled for few photos, there are problably few versions of this board. If you are lucky and skilled then you may find some other pin (connected to ATMega) to reuse. Otherwise you would need to replace steering electronics with new board, which &lt;strong&gt;could be of great benefit&lt;/strong&gt; for future improvements: more ports for extra fans, probes, more memory, better stepper drivers, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26170" LastActivityDate="2021-01-24T18:00:49.967" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15426" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15412" CreationDate="2021-01-24T18:52:11.933" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is my bet, based on cooling fan failure (I assume it was nozzle fan, not a heatsink fan), though honestly my practical experience with HIPS is zero. Without this fan heated material printed at high angles will definitely curl up, and even flat may be unstable. I suppose it happend, observing layer inconsistency on middle finger close to the nail.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then, material could curl a bit and build up. Collisions with hotend could result in blob of plastic here or there, and then something bad happened (&lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/15412/3d-printer-destroys-part-by-lowering-nozzle#comment29010_15412&quot;&gt;see @Jack State comment&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also suppose that the whole print was detached from bed and rotated, because we see surprising shape across the middle finger, and unfinished index finger. Filament was extruded in random locations, causing more blobs, more curling and more mess. There are some gaps which look exactly like hotend run directly into them. I suppose that object rotated both horizontally and vertically. It could be even dragged by hotend at the end (e.g. filament was extruded inside the index finger).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26170" LastActivityDate="2021-01-24T18:52:11.933" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15427" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15421" CreationDate="2021-01-24T19:34:15.350" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It could be caused by software or configuration issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Possibility 1: just worked after re-installation of Marlin&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could have Z steps/mm set to 0 in EEPROM, and did not notice that fact.&#xA;It is possible to fix this unconsciously with Marlin software reinstallation, following the upgrade procedure which included reset of EEPROM settings - like &amp;quot;Step 4: Finishing touches&amp;quot; described in &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/12154/26170&quot;&gt;community wiki's guide for Updating Marlin Firmware&lt;/a&gt;. This is described in more details in another post &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/15307/no-stepper-motor-movement-on-ender-3-pro/15326#15326&quot;&gt;No stepper motor movement on Ender 3 Pro&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Possibility 2: Marlin configuration is not correct&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you recompiled Marlin, did you use &lt;strong&gt;already proven configuration for Marlin?&lt;/strong&gt; When saying &amp;quot;Motors will not turn&amp;quot; you mean only Z? Are your other motors are still functional now after Marlin was deployed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Among other Marlin settings, you may want to check that this line is disabled in Configuration_adv.h:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;  /**&#xA;   * Software enable&#xA;   *&#xA;   * Use for drivers that do not use a dedicated enable pin, but rather handle the same&#xA;   * function through a communication line such as SPI or UART.&#xA;   */&#xA;  //#define SOFTWARE_DRIVER_ENABLE&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;(I took this advice from &lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?160,874963,874963&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;No Motor Power With TMC2209&lt;/a&gt; on RepRap forum.)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26170" LastEditorUserId="26170" LastEditDate="2021-01-25T20:28:52.820" LastActivityDate="2021-01-25T20:28:52.820" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15429" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15418" CreationDate="2021-01-24T23:36:39.140" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The error message explains that you cannot print your objects sequentially as they are too tall for the gantry to go back to the bed level after the first object.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In other words, your clearance between bed and gantry is too small.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2021-01-24T23:36:39.140" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15432" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15435" CreationDate="2021-01-25T09:27:14.467" Score="1" ViewCount="1083" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am looking at printing a fair amount of text, ideally using some custom fonts. I quite like &lt;a href=&quot;https://pixelify.net/download/free-fonts/script-handwritten/stay-classy-font-free/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Stay Classy&lt;/a&gt; but will likely have to consider change if it causes issues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am a little stuck on where to start with using these in some tools. I have tried creating an SVG using the font and importing to Tinkercad however that always fails. I only want to print the text, nothing else.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do I properly convert my font into .svg and import that so I can make my bodies? While I have tried Tinkercad I am open to alternative tools if this can be achieved more easily.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26485" LastEditorUserId="26485" LastEditDate="2021-01-25T11:17:31.843" LastActivityDate="2021-01-25T22:32:11.127" Title="Printing 3D letters in any font?" Tags="|software|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15433" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15432" CreationDate="2021-01-25T09:49:29.797" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Fonts are not saved in a format that is .svg compatible. However, text that is written in a font and saved as a black-and-white picture can be turned into a .svg by software. This .svg can be imported by Tinkercad then.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Step 1: Text Picture&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Use any software to create a .png or .jpg or something similar. Among the multitude of programs that can do this are GIMP and Adobe Photoshop. Even Paint can do this, or any word processor and then screen capture. If you know your Inkscape, you can skip this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Step 2: making the .svg&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Either you use software like &lt;a href=&quot;https://inkscape.org/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Inkscape&lt;/a&gt; to import your picture and trace the outlines, or you use a web service. For example &lt;a href=&quot;https://convertio.co/jpg-svg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Convertino&lt;/a&gt; or the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fontsquirrel.com/tools/webfont-generator&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Fontquirrel Webfont generator&lt;/a&gt;. You only need the outlines, no filling!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In Inkscape the rundown to tracing is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;File/Import&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Path/Trace Bitmap&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Update&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;OK&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Step 3: Import&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You got your outline .svg, so import that into any software and you can start making your embossed letters. Personally, I would use Fusion360, but most CAD software support importing an SVG and treat that the same as if you had sketched in that software.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2021-01-25T14:23:49.420" LastActivityDate="2021-01-25T14:23:49.420" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15434" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-01-25T13:08:46.430" Score="3" ViewCount="2368" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am using an Ender 3 (v1.1.4) with Marlin 1.1.X bugfix installed. Also BLTouch v3.1 is used. The probe is deployed once only while mesh bed leveling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I make the probe deploy twice at every point? Where am I supposed to change the code for it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please explain in detail if possible as I am not familiar with the coding part?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26491" LastEditorUserId="36802" LastEditDate="2024-02-09T21:17:18.927" LastActivityDate="2024-02-09T21:17:18.927" Title="How to probe twice while mesh bed leveling with a BLTouch setup?" Tags="|creality-ender-3|bed-leveling|bltouch|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15435" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15432" CreationDate="2021-01-25T13:18:18.687" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think @Trish answered your question more specifically, but an alternate route (that I think its simpler assuming you don't mind the learning curve) is using Blender.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rather than creating an svg in a different software and having to go from something like photoshop to inkscape to tinkercad to your printer software...  Blender could do most of that in one step, and its free.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In Blender, add text:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8vXWf.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8vXWf.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hit tab to go into &amp;quot;Edit&amp;quot; mode and in edit mode you can simply backspace and type whatever you want.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UdUXU.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UdUXU.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the &amp;quot;Font&amp;quot; menu, you can choose from any font on your computer.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1hkC1.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1hkC1.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zMbeY.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zMbeY.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And you can make it &amp;quot;3D&amp;quot; by extruding it:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SzlG0.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SzlG0.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When it looks good and you're ready to print it, make sure to convert it to a mesh, then export as .stl for your printing software. (Cura/Slic3r/etc.)&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5V2yx.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5V2yx.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/03VPQ.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/03VPQ.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15186" LastActivityDate="2021-01-25T13:18:18.687" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15436" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15434" CreationDate="2021-01-25T13:20:09.033" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;For the 1.1.x (1.1.9) bugfix firmware version, the multiple probing is defined in the &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/blob/bugfix-1.1.x/Marlin/Configuration.h#L795&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;configuration.h file&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;// The number of probes to perform at each point.&#xA;//   Set to 2 for a fast/slow probe, using the second probe result.&#xA;//   Set to 3 or more for slow probes, averaging the results.&#xA;//#define MULTIPLE_PROBING 2&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should change the configuration to include the multiple probing by uncommenting the line:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#define MULTIPLE_PROBING 2&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Note that there is question: &amp;quot;&lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/12153/updating-marlin-firmware-step-by-step-guide&quot;&gt;Updating Marlin Firmware - Step by Step Guide&lt;/a&gt;&amp;quot; that shows how you should modify the sources.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;How to compile and upload/install the compiled binary on your printer controller board depends on the controller board version and type.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-01-25T14:01:58.260" LastActivityDate="2021-01-25T14:01:58.260" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15439" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15823" CreationDate="2021-01-25T17:07:16.080" Score="3" ViewCount="2856" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the past we had printers with poor mechanics and with primitive software algorithms, therefore we used to print inner perimeters faster than the outermost one. See for example (generic, found online):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DJeIV.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DJeIV.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However now we have pressure/linear advance which reduces extra oozing/extrusion in corners or areas with variable speed, and in Klipper we also have &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.klipper3d.org/Resonance_Compensation.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;resonance compensation&lt;/a&gt; which takes care of imperfect mechanics allowing printers to be pushed to higher acceleration without visible artifacts (in my case from 2000 to 6000 mm/s^2), see (generic) photo:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SZhB5.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SZhB5.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However printing slower has a clear disadvantage: E steps calibration is speed dependent with more filament being pushed out at lower speed, see&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/0xRtypDjNvI?start=0&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any reason left to print outer perimeters at a lower speed? Using one speed only except for specific areas (small perimeters, bridges, support) seems to make more sense to me to improve quality and reduce printing times.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2338" LastEditorUserId="2338" LastEditDate="2021-01-25T17:15:16.847" LastActivityDate="2021-03-08T14:21:48.727" Title="Is a slower outer perimeter speed still meaningful?" Tags="|slicing|calibration|speed|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15441" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-01-25T19:59:37.257" Score="0" ViewCount="118" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have had this issue with both Sunlu PETG (red) and TechnologyOutlet PETG (blue), both are translucent PETG filaments.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is printed with a bowden setup, 5 mm retraction, 85 °C bed and 245 °C nozzle. I am convinced it is a retraction issue but it does not show up on my temperature towers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dpzDf.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dpzDf.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Stalagmites form&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26499" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-01-25T22:01:32.113" LastActivityDate="2023-09-22T14:09:16.197" Title="How to stop stalagmite formation with translucent PETGs" Tags="|petg|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15442" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6619" CreationDate="2021-01-25T20:43:50.193" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am having the same issue so in the firmware instead of changing to an empty pin, I swapped pins 6 and 7 so the nozzle temp would read from the bed temp plug on the board. Now the nozzle temp is reading properly i went into configurations.h line 291 and changed the 1 to 999 and on line 295 i changed the value to 60 now the bed temp will always be 60 so as long as my print settings match it will never engage the heat bed and allow the machine to print. Now I will use an ESP8266 nodeMCU to read the temp and control the MOSFET for the heat bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26500" LastEditorUserId="26500" LastEditDate="2021-01-25T23:37:39.427" LastActivityDate="2021-01-25T23:37:39.427" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15443" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15432" CreationDate="2021-01-25T22:32:11.127" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Tinkercad and Inkscape is likely the easiest method, requiring very little to learn anew. The key in Inkscape is to use Path, Object to Path, which converts the text format to &amp;quot;ordinary&amp;quot; vectors supported by Tinkercad.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're comfortable with both programs, there's no reason to divert to a new package.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tossing a conversion from vector to bitmap and back to vector is going to &amp;quot;damage&amp;quot; the image, while the suggestion I've made will retain all detail.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastActivityDate="2021-01-25T22:32:11.127" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15444" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15451" CreationDate="2021-01-25T23:45:20.870" Score="1" ViewCount="124" Body="&lt;p&gt;I need to print a rotor for a DC motor I'm designing. In the process of testing the behaviors of the motor performances, I would need a material that will not deform at a temperature range between 100 °C to 150 °C.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since I don't have a 3D printer yet, I would like to know what would be the best choice for my need.&#xA;I was planning to buy an Ender 3, but I'm not sure this entry-level 3D printer will allow me to obtain the results I'm looking for. I'm excluding PLA material because I think it's the most &amp;quot;fragile&amp;quot; material from this point of view and for my needs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My questions are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Which material should I use in order to have a 3D printed object (rotor) that will not deform at a temperature that varies from 100 °C to 150 °C?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Can an Ender 3 (planning to use full metal hotend and also hotbed) be used to print the filament that is heat resistant? Should I buy a resin 3D printer?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26507" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-01-27T12:33:56.167" LastActivityDate="2021-01-29T12:04:57.900" Title="Which 3D printer to print heat-resistant material?" Tags="|3d-design|heat-management|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15445" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-01-25T23:56:11.990" Score="1" ViewCount="73" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just got my printer for Christmas. It's an Ender 3 Pro. I ran two test prints and they came out great.  However, after changing the filament from the one that came with the printer, my prints started looking like these (the black ones).&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;I've tried 2-3 different filaments.  I've adjusted my settings temp and speed, I've even cleaned it. All of these are the same slicer settings. The completed white one was from the filament that came with the machine. (Yes, I know they are all phallic-shaped it was an inside joke that was being worked on for gifts).&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Any settings or ideas of what can be happening.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4ZNC1.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4ZNC1.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BtmmF.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BtmmF.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26509" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-01-27T12:28:09.317" LastActivityDate="2021-01-27T12:28:09.317" Title="What's wrong with my prints?" Tags="|print-quality|creality-ender-3|troubleshooting|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15446" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-01-26T00:34:31.180" Score="1" ViewCount="399" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've had my Prusa i3MK3S+ for a couple of months now, and done 100+ prints, and other than a few issues with first layer adhesion (which are pretty much solved now), have been getting consistently good results. That is, until the day before yesterday. My last six or seven prints have either failed altogether (items that I have successfully printed previously have failed, seeming to collapse midway through printing), or completed with such poor quality as to be useless.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I haven't changed any of the slicer settings, and am using the same filament that was working three days ago (and has been stored in a low-humidity environment). Initially, the printer had not been moved, nor had anything changed in its immediate environment (temperature and humidity are the same, as best as I can measure them).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1nmHD.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1nmHD.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Failed print showing gaps between infill and outline, and distortions in perimeters&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(the above part was printed successfully about a week before, using the same filament and the same slicer settings, however here it printed with gaps between infill and outline, and circles printed as ellipses)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZGLJJ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZGLJJ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Calibration print&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(the calibration cat at &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1545913&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1545913&lt;/a&gt; -- I have never printed this before, but it does clearly show the kind of problems I'm having)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/r39Ro.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/r39Ro.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;same cat, different angle&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've performed regular maintenance tasks and recalibrated the printer, but this hasn't made a difference. I've reinstalled Prusa Slicer with default settings, which didn't help either. I did think that maybe it was an issue with tension on the y-axis belt, which does look a bit loose, however, according to the printer's diagnostics, the tension in both belts is fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any help/suggestions/ideas would be much appreciated!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: I decided to ignore the diagnostic report from the printer, and re-tension the Y-axis belt, and that has substantially improved things, although it is far from fixed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9zaL1.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9zaL1.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Layer shifting along Y-axis&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qJxjc.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qJxjc.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Looks like X-axis is OK for layer shift&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So that's resolved some of the issues. The remaining layer shift appears to be only happening parallel to the Y-axis (i.e. the layers seem to line up perfectly along the X). Have I managed to fix one problem and introduce another??&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26508" LastEditorUserId="26508" LastEditDate="2021-01-26T12:46:59.680" LastActivityDate="2021-01-26T14:59:41.720" Title="Sudden deterioration of print quality on Prusa i3MK3S+" Tags="|print-quality|prusa-i3|troubleshooting|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15447" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-01-26T10:14:19.153" Score="3" ViewCount="2326" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just installed my BLTouch clone (Marlin 1.8) on my Anycubic i3 Mega Ultrabase and finding confusing information about the &lt;code&gt;Z_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER&lt;/code&gt; or the &lt;code&gt;M851&lt;/code&gt; command.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I understand &lt;code&gt;M851&lt;/code&gt; command does the same as &lt;code&gt;Z_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER&lt;/code&gt; in the Configuration.h. (see &lt;a href=&quot;https://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M851.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;marlin docs&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So according to Marlin, this value is the distance of the nozzle to the distance of the triggering point of the sensor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I manage to measure that accurately, Marlin could probe the bed, knowing distance of probe to nozzle, add a margin for perfect distance (around paper thickness) and my bed would be forever perfectly measured with every autolevelling process and perfect distances could be calculated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Instead, I find tutorials around the &lt;code&gt;M851&lt;/code&gt; (e.g &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/5857/z-offset-on-autoleveling-sensor-setup/5858#5858?newreg=7ba284617c6d4de7834be73f67dd4e6b&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; telling to manually level the bed, then take the current Z-value of the extruder and put that into the &lt;code&gt;M851&lt;/code&gt; value. In my understanding it makes little sense, as it has no reference to when the sensor triggers, its distance to the bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sure, maybe this way it can get an understanding of slight derivations in the planarity of the bed, but it would not have automatically &amp;quot;levelled&amp;quot; my bed, just compensated for imperfections.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am confused by the amount of tutorials that suggest so. Whats the case now? Is Marlin not really able to really level to my bed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26517" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2022-01-08T19:18:30.150" LastActivityDate="2022-01-08T19:18:30.150" Title="Understanding of the auto bed leveling process (BLTouch)" Tags="|marlin|bed-leveling|bltouch|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15448" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15417" CreationDate="2021-01-26T10:30:22.527" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Provided you find a way to increase the extruder limits, as replied by @dandavis , you will still get underextrusion in the infill if the infill is printed faster than walls.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You need to enable some option in the slicer to label each part of the print, so that you get a comment in the gcode to mark walls, infill, and so on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then you need to process the generated gcode, so that when you find the label &amp;quot;infill&amp;quot; you replace it with a flow multiplier to increase flow. How much has to be tuned by try and fail.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You also need to replace every remaining label (walls, ...) with a 100% flowrate setting to bring back the setting to the standard value, obviously.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2338" LastActivityDate="2021-01-26T10:30:22.527" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15449" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-01-26T10:48:54.873" Score="1" ViewCount="240" Body="&lt;p&gt;Got a tricky problem here :&#xA;I print plate (76x70x3 mm) however there heights (Z-axis) are not correct every time...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/C8MMM.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/C8MMM.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;This is the current Z-axis, should be 3 mm&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My extruder has been re-calibrated.&#xA;My bed has been re-calibrated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So Firstly I re-calibrate X, Y, and Z-axis with this cube (&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1278865&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;thingiverse&lt;/a&gt;) :&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BcNrG.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BcNrG.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;left before calibration, right after calibration&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is detailed data :&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2EPpg.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2EPpg.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Z Axis&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cAhIp.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cAhIp.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;X Axis&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/v5Vb6.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/v5Vb6.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Y Axis&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a picture before and after calibration&#xA;You can see the cube is perfectly equal&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, my problem persists. Whatever the plate I want to print, the height is always incorrect. And not only with these pieces with all other plates I created.&#xA;All other axes than Z are correct.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's important to note that Cura always sees the correct size :&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yd5aj.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yd5aj.png&quot; alt=&quot;Screenshot from Cura&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I really don't understand why only on the plate my height is not correct but for the larger piece, it's correct.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I really want an explanation,&#xA;thank's a lot !!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26519" LastActivityDate="2021-01-26T10:48:54.873" Title="Ender 3 : problem on Z axis for the first layers ONLY" Tags="|creality-ender-3|calibration|z-axis|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15451" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15444" CreationDate="2021-01-26T14:13:55.790" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;PEEK (poly ether ether ketone) has a glass transition temperature of 145 ‎°C (293 °F).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Melting temperature&#xA;345 ‎°C (653 °F)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Nozzle temperature&#xA;370 - 410 ‎°C&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Heated bed&#xA;120 - 150 ‎°C&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Polycarbonate has a glass transition temperature of about 147 °C (297 °F)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Polypropylene has a glass transition temperature is 215 °C&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Polymaker PolyMide CoPA (specialized Nylon) Filament has a softening temperature of ~180 °C, but they don't specify the glass transition temperature.  Other materials have the glass transition temperature about 5 °C below the temperature the material softens.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, the glass transition temperature is only an indication of a physical change: while uncommon, a material may be rigid enough well above it's glass transition temperature.  &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/15490/how-to-interpret-various-thermal-related-filament-properties&quot;&gt;How to interpret various thermal-related filament properties?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A side issue to consider as far as layout is FDM prints are weakest between layers (layer separation), so you want a layout where this affects your print the least.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15075" LastEditorUserId="15075" LastEditDate="2021-01-29T12:04:57.900" LastActivityDate="2021-01-29T12:04:57.900" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15452" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15444" CreationDate="2021-01-26T14:24:47.387" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Using an Ender 3 for high temperature materials is possible but you need to enclose it to be able to heat the air up to 100 °C.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's quite involved and it would be much better, if it's something you do seldomly, to have the parts printed professionally.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many thing start warping or breaking at 100 °C.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2338" LastEditorUserId="2338" LastEditDate="2021-01-28T10:19:53.197" LastActivityDate="2021-01-28T10:19:53.197" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15453" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15244" CreationDate="2021-01-26T14:46:52.890" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In order to use a BLTouch probe (or clone probe) you need to configure the firmware to know that a servo operated Z endstop is being used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the referenced files that are used for building the firmware you are running can be found in the configuration.h that:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;/**&#xA; * The BLTouch probe uses a Hall effect sensor and emulates a servo.&#xA; */&#xA;//#define BLTOUCH&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When using a servo port operated probe (position of the servo corresponds to a certain action) such as the BLTouch, 3DTouch, etc. you need to configure using it as such:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;/**&#xA; * The BLTouch probe uses a Hall effect sensor and emulates a servo.&#xA; */&#xA;#define BLTOUCH&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Furthermore, you need to be sure to connect the cables of the touch probe according to the pin arrangement as defined for you controller board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;E.g. &lt;code&gt;#define Z_MIN_PROBE_USES_Z_MIN_ENDSTOP_PIN&lt;/code&gt; could be used to re-use the Z-min endstop connector on the board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Note that when using a touch probe (which is a sophisticated sensor with it's own onboardmicro-processor with dedicated firmware), you cannot use &lt;code&gt;M119&lt;/code&gt;, the endstop status from the touch sensor cannot be read from the output of the command. According to &lt;a href=&quot;https://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M119.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&amp;quot;Marlin documentation&amp;quot;&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;code&gt;The BLTOUCH probe only sends a brief pulse, so “TRIGGERED” indicates the probe is in error state.&lt;/code&gt;.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-01-28T09:04:13.553" LastActivityDate="2021-01-28T09:04:13.553" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15454" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3696" CreationDate="2021-01-26T14:56:26.587" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As @tbm0115 has mentioned - it differs. Your &lt;code&gt;M108 T{index of tool}&lt;/code&gt; command is perfectly fine on some FlashForge printers, a company known for its different sorts of proprietary code. It is indeed used for tool changing here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While on the common Marlin firmware (e.g. used on the popular Creality Ender printers), &lt;code&gt;M108&lt;/code&gt; does a completely different thing-namely acting as a break sequence if the G-code parser is in a closed-loop-condition (after certain commands like &lt;code&gt;M109&lt;/code&gt; that wait until a certain action takes place).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26522" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-01-26T15:25:53.923" LastActivityDate="2021-01-26T15:25:53.923" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15455" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15446" CreationDate="2021-01-26T14:59:41.720" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Figured it out. One of the grub screws that hold the motor shaft onto the belt drive pulley for the Y-axis had come loose, and the other had fallen out altogether. I've tightened the remaining one (and ordered replacements), and my prints are perfect again. Well, as good as I can expect, given that I'm using cheap filament.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Two points that might be useful to bear in mind; firstly, the printer was consistently reporting that the belt tension was fine, but clearly it was not. I'm not sure if this is an issue with these printers in general or mine in particular. Secondly, the printer was able to figure out that the pulley was slipping, but did not do so as part of its standard test/setup wizard. It's under Calibration &amp;gt; Self Test.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26508" LastActivityDate="2021-01-26T14:59:41.720" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15456" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-01-26T15:09:15.483" Score="4" ViewCount="2349" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an Ender 5 with an auto bed leveling sensor (TRU-LEV 600).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is working fine, however, as the sensor probes the bed, the nozzle and the bed cool down and are not staying heated as it is getting the points, even though they were heated up in the first place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do I stop the bed and hotend from cooling down while the bed is being probed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is my start G-code:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;M75; Start Print Timer and Engage Fil Sensor if USB Printing&#xA;G92 E0; Reset Extruder distance to 0&#xA;G1 E-2; Retracts filament to prevent blobs during probing&#xA;M84 E; Disable E Motor for probe accuracy on direct drive systems&#xA;G28; home all axes&#xA;G28 Z; home Z to get more accurate Z position&#xA;G29; TRULEV mesh generation&#xA;G4 S10; wait for heaters to recover&#xA;M117 Purge extruder&#xA;G92 E0; reset extruder&#xA;G1 X0.1 Y20 Z0.3 F5000.0; move to start-line position&#xA;G1 Z1.0 F3000; move z up little&#xA;G1 X0.1 Y100.0 Z0.3 F750.0 E15; draw 1st line&#xA;G1 X0.4 Y100.0 Z0.3 F5000.0; move to side a little&#xA;G1 X0.4 Y20 Z0.3 F750.0 E30; draw 2nd line&#xA;G92 E0; reset extruder&#xA;G1 Z1.0 F3000; move z up little&#xA;M117 Printing.....&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25241" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-01-26T17:16:11.350" LastActivityDate="2023-01-29T22:41:39.880" Title="Ender 5 hotend and bed cooling down while auto bed leveling" Tags="|g-code|bed-leveling|creality-ender-5|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15457" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-01-26T17:58:54.273" Score="3" ViewCount="570" Body="&lt;p&gt;After seeing a question about FDM printing of temperature-resistant parts, high-temperature 2-part epoxy came to mind. Are there any (experimental or production) FDM extruders for laying viscous, fast-curing epoxy, mixing it at the last moment before extrusion? Or likewise other cured/resin materials, either 2-part or UV-cured (with whole print volume flooded with UV)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2022-05-06T19:30:52.777" Title="Are there FDM epoxy/resin printers?" Tags="|extruder|extrusion|print-material|paste-extruder|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15458" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6172" CreationDate="2021-01-26T19:39:17.967" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm missing something here. How about damping the movement of table and head by placing a tuned mass damper on table and head? Something like a mass that is mounted in the top of a skyscraper...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26526" LastActivityDate="2021-01-26T19:39:17.967" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15459" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14000" CreationDate="2021-01-26T21:12:49.810" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Slightly unscrew the motor. Manually rig the Z-axis above its lowest point. Rescrew the motor back into place tightly. Then auto home it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26529" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-01-26T21:58:26.803" LastActivityDate="2021-01-26T21:58:26.803" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15460" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15456" CreationDate="2021-01-27T00:43:01.190" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;For Marlin firmware, you should &lt;strong&gt;check the setting &lt;code&gt;PROBING_HEATERS_OFF&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; in &lt;em&gt;Configuration.h&lt;/em&gt; file:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;//#define PROBING_HEATERS_OFF       // Turn heaters off when probing&#xA;#if ENABLED(PROBING_HEATERS_OFF)&#xA;  //#define WAIT_FOR_BED_HEATER     // Wait for bed to heat back up between probes (to improve accuracy)&#xA;#endif&#xA;//#define PROBING_FANS_OFF          // Turn fans off when probing&#xA;//#define PROBING_STEPPERS_OFF      // Turn steppers off (unless needed to hold position) when probing&#xA;//#define DELAY_BEFORE_PROBING 200  // (ms) To prevent vibrations from triggering piezo sensors&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is probably enabled in your case. You may want to switch this off and reinstall firmware to maintain constant heating during probing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, you may want to take into account possibility of &lt;strong&gt;electrical or magnetic intereferences during probing&lt;/strong&gt; from heaters and their circuits. Disabling them for a while may eliminate these influences and give more reliable measurements. Unless the bed ot hotend are unable to maintain stable temperature for a while and cool down too much (e.g. bed changing shape). So may want to experiment what works the best in your case, maybe including other settings listed in given section.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26170" LastActivityDate="2021-01-27T00:43:01.190" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15463" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15413" CreationDate="2021-01-27T07:40:25.987" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Dirt. It was dirt. Most likely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mtwhz.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mtwhz.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Apparently the machine establishes bed level with a sensor, and I might be wrong, but I think the ET4 monitors capacitance as a means to notice how far the nozzle is from the bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After all else failed I looked at the nozzle closely and noticed that the whole thing looked fuzzy. Looks like soot (from where though!?) had settled on the machine's sensitive components and &lt;em&gt;de facto&lt;/em&gt; blind-folded its sensor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A wipe and a levelling later, all was back to normal. Yay!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23750" LastEditorUserId="23750" LastEditDate="2021-01-27T08:54:26.150" LastActivityDate="2021-01-27T08:54:26.150" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15464" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6331" CreationDate="2021-01-27T08:51:29.927" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It makes more sense to insulate &amp;quot;unused&amp;quot; areas, since the heat conduction goes with the surface area. Heating the plate at some place (instead allover the area) makes no big difference (aluminium is a very good heat conductor, this is already mentioned). But insulation will do. I would propose a downside full insulation (5-10 mm) and some &amp;quot;windows-shaped&amp;quot; square silicone (other thin material?) mats to cover the unused areas (mostly on the outer side of the bed) on the top side. Beware of collisions and auto-leveling algorithms (starting very often at corners). Side effect: you may reach much higher temperatures at the uncovered areas (might be doubled if covering half of the surface).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26537" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-01-27T12:38:11.770" LastActivityDate="2021-01-27T12:38:11.770" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15466" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6172" CreationDate="2021-01-27T10:42:32.207" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I got good results by mounting my printer on a concrete paving slab (obviously cleaned and sealed) and placing that on a foam mat. The combination of high mass and flexible mount has substantially reduced ghosting in my prints. Not my idea; I found it on a video on YouTube (linked below). Honestly not sure if this is the best solution from an engineering perspective (I like the idea suggested above of trying to find the resonant frequency) but it's easy, fast and cheap. And as a bonus, it has substantially reduced the noise level of my setup.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/y08v6PY_7ak?start=0&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26508" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2022-05-12T22:58:25.910" LastActivityDate="2022-05-12T22:58:25.910" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15467" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-01-27T10:47:17.653" Score="0" ViewCount="1147" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an old Anycubic i3 Mega printer which started having issues keeping the hotend-temperature. The peak at the start of the diagram was when I was touching the cable on top of the hotend:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3oQhF.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3oQhF.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It also sometimes disconnects completely with a MINTEMP-Error&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So it is fair to assume it might be an issue with the cable/plug to the hotend.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My problem is that I cannot find that cable anywhere on the Anycubic spare parts site. Is this maybe a &amp;quot;standard&amp;quot; cable that I can get anywhere else?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rbNF6.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rbNF6.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26538" LastActivityDate="2021-01-28T14:22:40.170" Title="Fixing temperature Issues on I3 Mega / Where to find spare part" Tags="|hotend|hardware|repair|anycubic-i3-mega|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15469" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-01-27T11:40:34.693" Score="-2" ViewCount="3952" Body="&lt;p&gt;I got this message from my Creality Ender 6 printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now every time I want to print, or when it heats up, the printer gives me this message.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can anyone please help with this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oCLzI.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Heating failed error&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oCLzI.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Heating failed error&quot; title=&quot;Heating failed error&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26539" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2021-08-11T09:14:26.790" LastActivityDate="2021-08-11T11:23:16.317" Title="Creality Ender 6 Heating failed error" Tags="|creality-ender-6|creality|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ClosedDate="2021-08-11T14:12:43.973" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15470" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15469" CreationDate="2021-01-27T13:43:40.563" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Someone with experience using an Ender may give a more specific answer to you question.  This is a general answer, not for a specific model.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&amp;quot;Soon enough&amp;quot; is saying the printer timed out before reaching temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Do you see the temperature increasing on both the hot end and bed?  If one doesn't, that's where the failure occurs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Are you setting a temperature higher than you have ever used on this printer?  If so, check to see if you are beyond the printers capability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The hotend will reach temperature first. Does it reach the target temperature? If so, the issue is probably with your bed heater.  If not, the issue is with your hot end.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If you are pushing the extremes of your heaters, especially the bed heater, and your printer isn't in an enclose, you may need and enclosure to run that temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you determine where the issue is at, there are things to can do to determine what is failing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15075" LastEditorUserId="15075" LastEditDate="2021-01-28T13:45:00.390" LastActivityDate="2021-01-28T13:45:00.390" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15472" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15467" CreationDate="2021-01-27T14:13:23.433" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The plastic looks ok.  If you get the tools and pins to work on the connector, you could replace problem pins.  Many of us build our own cables.  If we verify the connector is Molex, you might need calipers to measure dimensions to get the correct size.  You won't need expensive ones.  I've seen digital calipers from \$10 to \$20.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Have you already verified your sensor and heater aren't an issue?  Maybe you've tried a new hot end, or a new heater block with a new heater and sensor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can visually inspect the pins on the connector to see if they have a loose connection.  See the solution at &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10695/proper-hotend-heater-for-reprap-x400-pro-v3&quot;&gt;Proper hotend heater for Reprap x400 Pro V3&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is strange from you graph, you seem to be loosing connection to both thermistors.  Do the thermistors to the bed and hot end share one common connection, so that one pin could affect both?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you haven't already tried it, one quick fix to try is unplugging the cables and plug them in again with the printer off of course.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15075" LastEditorUserId="15075" LastEditDate="2021-01-28T14:22:40.170" LastActivityDate="2021-01-28T14:22:40.170" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15473" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-01-27T15:47:21.950" Score="0" ViewCount="3495" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've updated to Marlin 2.0.7 when I set up a BLTouch (I've edited &lt;code&gt;configuration.h&lt;/code&gt; based on my board model; MKS Robin E3) and now it seems the temperature does not match the display.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Before the update, I was printing with PLA filament at 205 °C and bed at 60 °C without issue. After the update, my prints are full of stringing, so  I decided to lower the temperature until 180 °C and now it's fine (everything above 185 °C is stringing). I've tried tuning PID but it wasn't better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I assume my printer sees 205 °C but the real nozzle temp is higher.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26545" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-07-01T08:19:33.757" LastActivityDate="2024-03-17T13:08:36.073" Title="Ender 3 Marlin - Incorrect temperature" Tags="|marlin|creality-ender-3|temperature|stringing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15474" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15479" CreationDate="2021-01-27T17:00:50.830" Score="2" ViewCount="1171" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an Ender 3 Pro and I'm about to print a relatively large model on it.&#xA;I've been printing in PETG and I'd like to use up the last of the roll during this print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the roll runs out however, I don't currently have any PETG lying around but I do have two brand new rolls of PLA and ABS.  I'd love to swap to one of them (lets say ABS) when the PETG is running low, and I'm just wondering if there is anything I should be wary of besides the print temp.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am aware of general issues with ABS (warping without heated enclosure and stuff) but if I:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Have heated enclosure&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tune temperature to be higher when I swap to ABS&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Have &amp;quot;draft shield&amp;quot; printing along with the model&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any other considerations that I need to put in the gcode or anything?  How much it pushes the filament or retracts or something?  I'm just using &amp;quot;Generic PETG&amp;quot; settings on Cura.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15186" LastEditorUserId="15186" LastEditDate="2021-02-02T19:32:55.897" LastActivityDate="2021-02-02T19:32:55.897" Title="How to switch from PETG to either PLA/ABS mid print?" Tags="|creality-ender-3|abs|petg|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15475" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14000" CreationDate="2021-01-27T22:22:22.163" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;(Summed up from several entries in this thread.)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is an untrue statement that the printer &lt;em&gt;can't move back to home anymore&lt;/em&gt;, until the G-Code &lt;a href=&quot;https://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/G028.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;code&gt;G28&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/a&gt; is executed. &lt;strong&gt;The printer can home, but must be ordered to do it.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are several &lt;strong&gt;ways to home the printer&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;em&gt;(LCD hints are for Marlin firmware)&lt;/em&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Start a print, which (by the book) includes &lt;code&gt;G28&lt;/code&gt; in its initial part&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Use the LCD menu option to home all axes: &lt;code&gt;Prepare &amp;gt; Auto Home&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Use the LCD menu options to home single axes, for example: &lt;code&gt;Prepare &amp;gt; Auto Home Z&lt;/code&gt;, after they are activated by adding the following to the &lt;em&gt;Configuration.h&lt;/em&gt; file:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#define INDIVIDUAL_AXIS_HOMING_MENU&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Add your own options to the &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/7676/how-to-add-menu-options-to-the-marlin-firmware-lcd-menu/15216#15216&quot;&gt;custom menu&lt;/a&gt; in the LCD: &lt;code&gt;Custom Commands &amp;gt; Your command&lt;/code&gt; - for example to have more complex scripts at hand, like a custom sequence of axes, multiple repeats, different back-off behavior, or move to center of bed (G-Code snippets)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The current position may be updated with G-Code &lt;a href=&quot;https://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/G092.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;code&gt;G92&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/a&gt;, and this hack may be useful when a print gets stuck (e.g., power outage, thermal issue) and there is no space any more to home Z, but its actual position is known from the print file (the remaining part?) Set the known position of Z (&lt;code&gt;G92 Znnn&lt;/code&gt;) and let X and Y home the standard way (&lt;code&gt;G28 X Y&lt;/code&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26170" LastEditorUserId="34923" LastEditDate="2023-07-10T19:02:46.590" LastActivityDate="2023-07-10T19:02:46.590" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15476" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15473" CreationDate="2021-01-27T23:51:50.183" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;When you have updated to Marlin, you were supposed to configure it carefully. This is maybe laborious and sometimes difficult procedure, but very important. Basic guidelines are described in &lt;a href=&quot;https://marlinfw.org/docs/configuration/configuration.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Configuring Marlin&lt;/a&gt; official guide.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I assume that you obviously did it, at least in some part to enable BLTouch.&#xA;You should review the &lt;a href=&quot;https://marlinfw.org/docs/configuration/configuration.html#thermal-settings&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Thermal Settings&lt;/a&gt; section and update it with valid thermistors types for bed and hotend in &lt;em&gt;Configuration.h&lt;/em&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#define TEMP_SENSOR_0 1&#xA;...&#xA;#define TEMP_SENSOR_BED 1&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The list of available predefined settings (numerical identifiers) is just above these &lt;code&gt;#define&lt;/code&gt; macros. The optimistic assumption is that you know that hardware details. Popular value is &lt;code&gt;1&lt;/code&gt; for EPCOS 100k (older repraps) or NTC 3950 100k, but there are many &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.reddit.com/r/ender5/comments/f3bub6/upgraded_to_th3d_marlin_and_120v_heated_bed_100k/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;examples of troubleshooting and advices&lt;/a&gt; on Internet. For more exotic temperature sensors you should set value &lt;code&gt;1000&lt;/code&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/15425/26170&quot;&gt;specify own details in Configuration_adv.h&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If all these settings are correct, then possibly your thermistor is faulty. There is always a chance of coincidence with some damage unrelated to last upgrades. You can follow &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/15425/26170&quot;&gt;these instructions to verify it&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26170" LastEditorUserId="26170" LastEditDate="2021-02-01T07:24:48.467" LastActivityDate="2021-02-01T07:24:48.467" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15479" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15474" CreationDate="2021-01-28T10:25:33.483" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should do a complete calibration for ABS (temperature tower, E steps, flowrate %) before starting the print, then when you change filament remember to apply all the parameters I mentioned.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While I'm not in favour of using the flow rate % to correct the E steps calibration, since you are doing it mid print this may be the easiest way, instead of changing E steps AND flow rate %.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you said, you need to change temperature too, but both PETG and ABS print well at 235 °C so it may not be needed. PLA works too, but PLA bridges at 235 °C are difficult to get properly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For sure you won't be able to change other parameters, such as fan speed, printing speed and flowrate for bridges, which are all specific to each filament, but hopefully it will work out anyway, since PETG is trickier than ABS or PLA.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course you may have issues with adherence: PETG may not bond well to ABS or PLA (in fact, PETG can be used for support for PLA and viceversa because the bonding is not too strong). You may have a weak print with PLA, so go for ABS.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PETG as support for PLA: &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/13931/can-petg-be-used-as-support-material-for-pla&quot;&gt;Can PETG be used as support material for PLA?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bridge calibration:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/4KAMFamy3zw?start=0&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2338" LastActivityDate="2021-01-28T10:25:33.483" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15481" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4568" CreationDate="2021-01-28T12:09:45.340" Score="4" Body="&lt;h1&gt;Startup&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Usually, when a printer starts up, the screen shows a boot-screen. This contains usually the firmware version, but not who or what the settings are.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;LCD: About Printer&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some printers have an LCD main menu item that is &amp;quot;About Printer&amp;quot; or similar. It would one of the last items if enabled.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In Marlin it is disabled by default, and you'd need to uncomment &lt;code&gt;#define LCD_INFO_MENU&lt;/code&gt; in &lt;code&gt;Configuration_adv.h&lt;/code&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Terminal&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Connect a &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10573/what-is-a-printer-console-terminal&quot;&gt;terminal&lt;/a&gt; and send &lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#M115:_Get_Firmware_Version_and_Capabilities&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;code&gt;M115&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/a&gt;. In most cases, this will tell you the current Firmware and version, as it is annotated in the firmware. This doesn't mean that those lines always were updated by who changed the files, but it is a good indication what was the basis for the installed firmware.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2021-01-29T09:59:39.970" LastActivityDate="2021-01-29T09:59:39.970" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15482" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-01-28T14:20:03.667" Score="1" ViewCount="2496" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The Context:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to print this container with a Voronoi pattern on it. The actual object itself was created using a combination of &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.voronator.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this online tool&lt;/a&gt; and Fusion 360. This was then imported into Chitubox (V1.7.0), rotated by 20°, and auto supports were generated (default medium weight, 60 % density). This was sliced and then exported as a .cbddlp file, stuck on a micro SD (not SDHC) card, and printed from there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The Setup:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm using a 'MonoPrice MP Mini SLA' resin printer, along with Elegoo standard blue resin. The print shown in the pictures below was printed in a warm room (probably ~20 °C), the print bed had been cleaned prior to printing with isopropyl alcohol, and the vat/FEP with warm soapy water; both were left to dry fully.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bottom layer curing time: 120 s&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Other layer curing time: 10 s&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bottom Layer count: 20&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Transition layer count: 20&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Light off delay: 1 s&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The vat/FEP film was tightened down nicely, the print bed auto-levels before every print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The Question:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;'Simply', why have I got these random holes appearing?&lt;/strong&gt; I have never had a single issue with the bottom layers not adhering properly, but now I have these holes that are completely surrounded by perfectly acceptable print. Is it something obviously wrong with the model/supports (too complex/flimsy)? Is it slicer related (just not generating print data for those areas)? Settings related (over/under-exposing)? FEP related (too sticky/not tensioned correctly)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yso8I.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yso8I.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;No random gaps on this side (Except for where I broke away a support with a little too much vigour.&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No random gaps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XxMhG.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XxMhG.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Random gaps here, these extend completely through any supports in the vicinity by the way.&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Random gaps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26560" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-01-28T21:22:54.723" LastActivityDate="2021-01-28T21:22:54.723" Title="Resin LCD prints ending up with random holes in them" Tags="|resin|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15483" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15457" CreationDate="2021-01-28T15:24:54.843" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is this what you're looking for?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(&lt;a href=&quot;https://the3dprinterbee.com/how-does-a-resin-3d-printer-work-sla-dlp-lcd-explained/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://the3dprinterbee.com/how-does-a-resin-3d-printer-work-sla-dlp-lcd-explained/&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Material Beam&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Material blasting is a unique 3D resin printing technology that can be compared to an office inkjet printer. It is also considered one of the fastest and most accurate 3D printing technologies available for resin printing today.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Material Beam 3D printers are similar to inkjet 3D printers in that they also have a print head from which thousands of tiny resin droplets are applied to the building platform and then cured with UV light. Once a layer has been completed, the building platform automatically lowers to the height of a layer and the process is repeated until the object is completed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The technology of material blasting enables high dimensional accuracy, but speed is also a convincing point. The process in which the resin droplets are ejected from several print heads, which in turn move back and forth over the building platform, is known as line-by-line cutting. This ensures that multiple parts can be produced without affecting the build speed. As a user, you also have the choice between matte and shiny surfaces on your 3D printed object. However, the individual components for material beam technology are very cost-intensive. Other disadvantages are the waste of material when you choose to print matt surfaces and the low strength of the 3D printed parts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15075" LastActivityDate="2021-01-28T15:24:54.843" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15485" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15407" CreationDate="2021-01-28T16:06:33.383" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The issue was &lt;strong&gt;BLTouch&lt;/strong&gt; i'm not sure what use is this thing if it cannot compensate for differences in bed or frame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure why but the probing seems to be bad. I tried everything clean TH3D install and config, pitch perfect alignment of everything frame, bed, mounts everything. Perfectly calibrated Z offset at the centre of bed. I triple checked the belts. Checked if X axis was off or if any screw was lose, checked wheels to make sure everything was snugg.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyhow in the end the issue was with bad BLTouch probing not sure why. I gave up and went and disconneced &lt;strong&gt;BLTouch&lt;/strong&gt; did manual bed leveling with the paper method. Press print and I got a perfect print. Like literally perfect. Even extrusion everywhere.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;BLTouch seems to have probed the distance at the centre of bed, I set the offset for it. Than when it went and probed other corners before the print it seems to have read the values wrong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26448" LastActivityDate="2021-01-28T16:06:33.383" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15488" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15447" CreationDate="2021-01-28T22:01:35.193" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;What may be confusing is the use of the naming of the mechanism &amp;quot;Auto Bed Levelling&amp;quot;, or short ABL, does not make your build plate to level itself with respect to the frame of the printer&lt;sup&gt;1)&lt;/sup&gt;. Hence you are instructed to always tram (level is rather misleading as it doesn't involve bubble levelling, instead it is meant to tram the bed with respect to the X- and Y-axis) the build surface as good as you can.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The ABL process could better be described as &amp;quot;Height adjusting to scanned bed geometry&amp;quot; or something like that, as that is exactly what is being done. The &lt;code&gt;G29&lt;/code&gt; command scans the bed surface and (depending on the firmware options) it generates a mesh or a plane through the measured points. When printing, the nozzle will follow the bed height geometry and fades this out over about 10 milliliters (depends on setting). So, if you do not tram the bed correctly, you will end up with a skew bottom of the print as the fade out will cause the printer to print eventually parallel to the X- and Y-axis.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that specifying the Z-offset in the firmware is rather useless, you cannot measure this beforehand. It is far better to do this later using &lt;code&gt;M851&lt;/code&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/5858&quot;&gt;This answer&lt;/a&gt; describes in some more detail how the offset is generated and applied to the scanned surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1)&lt;/sup&gt; It is possible to actually level/tram the bed (e.g. in Marlin firmware), but that are different processes. E.g. a tramming assistant is available when using the &lt;a href=&quot;https://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/G035.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;code&gt;G35&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/a&gt; G-code. And, automatically, (for specific printers) possible on build plates that are moved up/down by several lead screws (look into &lt;code&gt;NUM_Z_STEPPER_DRIVERS&lt;/code&gt; in Marlin's Configuration_adv.h file). But still, this maintains a certain level, it does not scan the complete surface, that can be achieved by the ABL process.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-02-28T23:14:55.633" LastActivityDate="2021-02-28T23:14:55.633" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15490" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-01-29T11:20:10.233" Score="3" ViewCount="169" Body="&lt;p&gt;When picking filament for specialty, high temperature applications, multiple parameters are provided, but it is not clear to me when which to use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The most common parameters provided are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Vicat softening temperature&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;heat deflection temperature&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming I'm designing a part to be used in high temperature environments, when should I use each parameter?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, Polymaker has&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;div class=&quot;s-table-container&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;table class=&quot;s-table&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;thead&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;th&gt;Material&lt;/th&gt;&#xA;&lt;th&gt;Vicat soft. temp. (°C)&lt;/th&gt;&#xA;&lt;th&gt;HDT (1.8 Mpa) (°C)&lt;/th&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;/thead&gt;&#xA;&lt;tbody&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;PolyLite PC&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;119.5&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;106.6&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;PC-ABS&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;135&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;106.4&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;PolyLite ABS&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;103.9&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;98.2&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;PA6-CF&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;em&gt;N/A&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;173&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;CoPA&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;180&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;69&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tbody&gt;&#xA;&lt;/table&gt;&#xA;&lt;/div&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://eu.polymaker.com/Downloads/TDS/PolyLite_PC_TDS_V5.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://eu.polymaker.com/Downloads/TDS/PolyLite_PC_TDS_V5.pdf&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://polymaker.com/Downloads/TDS/Polymaker_PC_ABS_TDS_V5.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://polymaker.com/Downloads/TDS/Polymaker_PC_ABS_TDS_V5.pdf&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://polymaker.com/Downloads/TDS/PolyMide_PA6_CF_TDS_V5.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://polymaker.com/Downloads/TDS/PolyMide_PA6_CF_TDS_V5.pdf&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://eu.polymaker.com/Downloads/TDS/PolyLite_ABS_TDS_V5.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://eu.polymaker.com/Downloads/TDS/PolyLite_ABS_TDS_V5.pdf&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://eu.polymaker.com/Downloads/TDS/PolyMide_CoPA_TDS_V5.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://eu.polymaker.com/Downloads/TDS/PolyMide_CoPA_TDS_V5.pdf&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2338" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2021-01-29T11:54:04.790" LastActivityDate="2021-01-30T11:17:45.037" Title="How to interpret various thermal-related filament properties?" Tags="|material|filament-choice|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15491" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-01-29T11:31:08.893" Score="3" ViewCount="967" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can I use Cura generated G-codes in Zmorph 3D printer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Zmorph comes with its own slicing software (Voxelizer) but it only takes a 2D drawing as input and layer height is the only parameter that can be changed so that the entire 2D drawing increases in height. I wanted to print objects as shown here:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wEPpN.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Curved shapes&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wEPpN.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Curved shapes&quot; title=&quot;Curved shapes&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried to create G-code in Cura and later use in Zmorph but the nozzle was going below the print bed when print is given so that I have to abort the print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Voxelizer code example (starting)&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;; Generated with Voxelizer 2&#xA;;; { &amp;quot;info&amp;quot;: [&#xA;;;         { &amp;quot;toolhead&amp;quot;: &amp;quot;Thick Paste&amp;quot; },&#xA;;;         { &amp;quot;workflow&amp;quot;: &amp;quot;chocolate\\ceramics&amp;quot; },&#xA;;;         { &amp;quot;voxelizer_version&amp;quot;: &amp;quot;v2.0.0-macOS-1-g90eaae&amp;quot; },&#xA;;;         { &amp;quot;voxel_size&amp;quot;: 0.23999999463558197 },&#xA;;;         { &amp;quot;printing_time&amp;quot;: &amp;quot;6min 30s &amp;quot; },&#xA;;;         { &amp;quot;printer&amp;quot;: &amp;quot;ZMorph VX&amp;quot; }&#xA;;;     ] }&#xA;G92 E0.00000&#xA;G1 E-2.00000 F3000.000&#xA;G1 Z3.160 F3000.000&#xA;G1 X99.257 Y97.462 F7200.000&#xA;G1 Z1.160 F3000.000&#xA;G1 E0.00000 F3000.000&#xA;G1 X99.225 Y97.435 E0.00046 F600.000&#xA;G1 X99.193 Y97.408 E0.00092 F600.000&#xA;G1 X99.162 Y97.381 E0.00138 F600.000&#xA;G1 X99.131 Y97.354 E0.00184 F600.000&#xA;G1 X99.100 Y97.327 E0.00229 F600.000&#xA;G1 X99.069 Y97.299 E0.00275 F600.000&#xA;G1 X99.038 Y97.272 E0.00321 F600.000&#xA;G1 X99.007 Y97.244 E0.00367 F600.000&#xA;G1 X98.976 Y97.216 E0.00413 F600.000&#xA;G1 X98.946 Y97.188 E0.00459 F600.000&#xA;G1 X98.915 Y97.160 E0.00505 F600.000&#xA;G1 X98.885 Y97.132 E0.00551 F600.000&#xA;G1 X98.855 Y97.103 E0.00596 F600.000&#xA;G1 X98.825 Y97.075 E0.00642 F600.000&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Cura generated code for above figure (Starting lines)&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;G92 E0.00000&#xA;G1 E-2.00000 F3000.000&#xA;G1 Z3.160 F3000.000&#xA;G1 X99.257 Y97.462 F7200.000&#xA;G1 Z1.160 F3000.000&#xA;G1 E0.00000 F3000.000&#xA;G1 X39.300 Y64.450 E4.10919 F1200.000&#xA;G1 X39.300 Y35.550 E9.65851&#xA;G1 X60.700 Y35.550 E13.76770&#xA;G1 X60.700 Y64.450 E19.31703&#xA;G0 X60.500 Y64.450 F7200.000&#xA;G0 X60.500 Y64.350&#xA;G0 X59.610 Y63.360&#xA;G1 X40.390 Y63.360 E23.00762 F1200.000&#xA;G1 X40.390 Y36.640 E28.13834&#xA;G1 X59.610 Y36.640 E31.82893&#xA;G1 X59.610 Y63.360 E36.95966&#xA;G0 X41.085 Y62.863 F7200.000&#xA;G1 X40.884 Y62.663 E37.01410 F1200.000&#xA;G0 X40.884 Y61.107 F7200.000&#xA;G1 X42.640 Y62.863 E37.49095 F1200.000&#xA;G0 X44.196 Y62.863 F7200.000&#xA;G1 X40.884 Y59.551 E38.39034 F1200.000&#xA;G0 X40.884 Y57.996 F7200.000&#xA;G1 X45.751 Y62.863 E39.71200 F1200.000&#xA;G0 X47.307 Y62.863 F7200.000&#xA;G1 X40.884 Y56.440 E41.45619 F1200.000&#xA;G0 X40.884 Y54.884 F7200.000&#xA;G1 X48.863 Y62.863 E43.62293 F1200.000&#xA;G0 X50.418 Y62.863 F7200.000&#xA;G1 X40.884 Y53.329 E46.21193 F1200.000&#xA;G0 X40.884 Y51.773 F7200.000&#xA;G1 X51.974 Y62.863 E49.22347 F1200.000&#xA;G0 X53.530 Y62.863 F7200.000&#xA;G1 X40.884 Y50.218 E52.65742 F1200.000&#xA;G0 X40.884 Y48.662 F7200.000&#xA;G1 X55.085 Y62.863 E56.51377 F1200.000&#xA;G0 X56.641 Y62.863 F7200.000&#xA;G1 X40.884 Y47.106 E60.79265 F1200.000&#xA;G0 X40.884 Y45.551 F7200.000&#xA;G1 X58.197 Y62.863 E65.49394 F1200.000&#xA;G0 X59.114 Y62.226 F7200.000&#xA;G1 X40.884 Y43.995 E70.44452 F1200.000&#xA;G0 X40.884 Y42.439 F7200.000&#xA;G1 X59.114 Y60.670 E75.39510 F1200.000&#xA;G0 X59.114 Y59.114 F7200.000&#xA;G1 X40.884 Y40.884 E80.34554 F1200.000&#xA;G0 X40.884 Y39.328 F7200.000&#xA;G1 X59.114 Y57.559 E85.29612 F1200.000&#xA;G0 X59.114 Y56.003 F7200.000&#xA;G1 X40.884 Y37.772 E90.24670 F1200.000&#xA;G0 X41.802 Y37.135 F7200.000&#xA;G1 X59.114 Y54.447 E94.94785 F1200.000&#xA;G0 X59.114 Y52.892 F7200.000&#xA;G1 X43.357 Y37.135 E99.22674 F1200.000&#xA;G0 X44.913 Y37.135 F7200.000&#xA;G1 X59.114 Y51.336 E103.08309 F1200.000&#xA;G0 X59.114 Y49.781 F7200.000&#xA;G1 X46.468 Y37.135 E106.51717 F1200.000&#xA;G0 X48.024 Y37.135 F7200.000&#xA;G1 X59.114 Y48.225 E109.52871 F1200.000&#xA;G0 X59.114 Y46.669 F7200.000&#xA;G1 X49.580 Y37.135 E112.11771 F1200.000&#xA;G0 X51.135 Y37.135 F7200.000&#xA;G1 X59.114 Y45.114 E114.28445 F1200.000&#xA;G0 X59.114 Y43.558 F7200.000&#xA;G1 X52.691 Y37.135 E116.02864 F1200.000&#xA;G0 X54.247 Y37.135 F7200.000&#xA;G1 X59.114 Y42.002 E117.35030 F1200.000&#xA;G0 X59.114 Y40.447 F7200.000&#xA;G1 X55.802 Y37.135 E118.24969 F1200.000&#xA;G0 X57.358 Y37.135 F7200.000&#xA;G1 X59.114 Y38.891 E118.72654 F1200.000&#xA;G0 X59.114 Y37.335 F7200.000&#xA;G1 X58.914 Y37.135 E118.78085 F1200.000&#xA;G0 X58.914 Y37.135 Z2.320 F600.000&#xA;G0 X55.200 Y58.950 F7200.000&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26582" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2021-08-01T17:31:31.527" LastActivityDate="2023-12-19T23:03:20.397" Title="Which slicer (Voxelizer or Cura) for Zmorph printer?" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|g-code|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15492" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-01-29T12:26:55.930" Score="2" ViewCount="5178" Body="&lt;p&gt;Before I ask you my question I want to summarize my problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am trying to build my personal 3D Printer and I can send the controller of my Extruder (Motor) only integer values. Slicer (Cura) produces fractions. I try to interprete these values as RPM. That means for example that I can't send 282.040 RPM (as calculated value), but I can send only 282 RPM.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My problem is that I got the E parameter as integer and decimal form like below:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;G1 X534.729 Y195.96 E144.96538&#xA;G1 X664.869 Y195.95 E161.48942&#xA;G1 X666.538 Y196.042 E161.70166&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any way to get the E-parameter only in integer form?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any program or is there any opportunity to set the slicer in order to have that goal?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26583" LastEditorUserId="26170" LastEditDate="2021-02-05T07:09:44.580" LastActivityDate="2021-02-05T07:09:44.580" Title="How to change the extrusion value (E parameter) in G-code?" Tags="|g-code|extrusion|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15493" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15490" CreationDate="2021-01-29T13:00:00.303" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This depends on application.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Definitions:&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;Vicat softening point. Vicat softening temperature&lt;/strong&gt; or &lt;strong&gt;Vicat hardness&lt;/strong&gt; is the determination of the softening point for materials that have no definite melting point, such as plastics. It is taken as the temperature at which the specimen is penetrated to a depth of 1 mm by a flat-ended needle with a 1 mm² circular or square cross-section. [However, it seems force on needle should be included.]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;strong&gt;heat deflection temperature&lt;/strong&gt; (HDT) or &lt;strong&gt;heat distortion temperature&lt;/strong&gt; (HDT, HDTUL, or DTUL) is the temperature at which a polymer or plastic sample deforms under a specified load. This property of a given plastic material is applied in many aspects of product design, engineering and manufacture of products using thermoplastic components. [Again, to be meaningful, the forces need to be specified.]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically, Vicat softening temperature involves ability to be cut, while heat deflection temperature involves distortion from an evenly distributed force. Thus, use the parameters based on whether sharp uneven forces or a distributed force is most important to your application. This can also be worded Vicat is for maintaining shape, HDT is for maintaining load bearing properties. In other words, Vicat is for uneven loading on the print, which can change the shape. The most extreme is a sharp load. HDT is for the print to support an evenly distributed load.  Many applications may be in between the two.  What complicates the issue is 3D prints are ususally printed with a fill rather than being printed solid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Appendix&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Standards to determine &lt;strong&gt;Vicat softening point&lt;/strong&gt; include ASTM D 1525 and ISO 306, which are largely equivalent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;strong&gt;heat distortion temperature&lt;/strong&gt; is determined by the following test procedure outlined in ASTM D648. The test specimen is loaded in three-point bending in the edgewise direction. The outer fiber stress used for testing is either 0.455 MPa or 1.82 MPa, and the temperature is increased at 2 °C/min until the specimen deflects 0.25 mm. This is similar to the test procedure defined in the ISO 75 standard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Limitations that are associated with the determination of the HDT is that the sample is not thermally isotropic and, in thick samples in particular, will contain a temperature gradient. The HDT of a particular material can also be very sensitive to stress experienced by the component which is dependent on the component’s dimensions. The selected deflection of 0.25 mm (which is 0.2 % additional strain) is selected arbitrarily and has no particular physical significance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15075" LastEditorUserId="15075" LastEditDate="2021-01-30T11:17:45.037" LastActivityDate="2021-01-30T11:17:45.037" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15495" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15497" CreationDate="2021-01-29T14:02:54.063" Score="3" ViewCount="853" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm using Cura to slice prints from a biodegradable polyester called PCL (&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Polycaprolactone&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Polycaprolactone&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I need to print @ ~70 °C but extruder does not run until nozzle reaches 175 °C.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which setting to change so extruder will turn on when nozzle temperature has reached 70 °C?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are my settings for the material:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IIh9C.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IIh9C.png&quot; alt=&quot;strong text&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26585" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-01-29T14:31:38.210" LastActivityDate="2021-01-30T05:49:27.263" Title="How to print at low temperatures (filament melting at about 70 °C)?" Tags="|hotend|nozzle|temperature|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15496" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15491" CreationDate="2021-01-29T14:18:47.347" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Voxelizer is &lt;strong&gt;multi-purpose software&lt;/strong&gt; that uses 5 to 7 different presets for the FAB and VX respectively. It decides upon what is available in options based on settings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;strong&gt;single and dual extruder setup&lt;/strong&gt; takes a whole load of data formats, including ones not commonly found in most other slicers:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9ZsX9.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9ZsX9.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;strong&gt;paste extruder setup&lt;/strong&gt; and &lt;strong&gt;Laser setup&lt;/strong&gt; only take &lt;code&gt;.dxf&lt;/code&gt;, &lt;code&gt;.svg&lt;/code&gt; and bitmap (&lt;code&gt;.jpg&lt;/code&gt;, &lt;code&gt;.bmp&lt;/code&gt;, &lt;code&gt;.png&lt;/code&gt;) files:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2MZoA.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2MZoA.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;strong&gt;CNC setup&lt;/strong&gt; features a different set of available extensions - including 2D files:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/j033H.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/j033H.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a 3D model, use the extruder setups. It does not appear as if the software uses a special G-code format but works with derivates of the Marlin G-code library. To swap between setups, click in the top left corner, as you can see in this test-slice I ran:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/T2j45.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/T2j45.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2021-01-29T14:26:50.967" LastActivityDate="2021-01-29T14:26:50.967" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15497" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15495" CreationDate="2021-01-29T16:03:29.433" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;70 °C is a specialty filament. It is well below the &lt;code&gt;MIN_TEMP&lt;/code&gt; defined in any sane firmware. In Marlin, you &lt;strong&gt;can't&lt;/strong&gt; turn on the extruder in any way, while this is online.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You do need to define your firmware to allow such a print - either by dropping the value in the firmware or disabling Mintemp-protection and then &lt;em&gt;flashing that firmware&lt;/em&gt;. That is quite invasive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To &lt;a href=&quot;https://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M302.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;temporarily&lt;/a&gt; disable the &lt;code&gt;MIN_TEMP&lt;/code&gt;, you need to run the G-code &lt;code&gt;M302 P1&lt;/code&gt; or &lt;code&gt;M302 S0&lt;/code&gt; - &lt;code&gt;M302&lt;/code&gt; on its own does nothing. However, some firmware distributions might explicitly prevent these two commands of &lt;em&gt;turning off&lt;/em&gt; the check.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In that case, you might use &lt;code&gt;M302 S65&lt;/code&gt; or similar to drop the &lt;code&gt;MIN_TEMP&lt;/code&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2021-01-30T05:46:14.693" LastActivityDate="2021-01-30T05:46:14.693" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15498" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15507" CreationDate="2021-01-30T00:04:44.543" Score="1" ViewCount="2849" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;TL;DR&lt;/strong&gt; - Please help me rebuild my CR-6 SE so that I can move on&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a link to the latest issue that I had to make proof of in a video: &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/9vChL7Il_9Y&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;CR6-SE failed&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically, it's failing to reach/maintain temperature (set point of 240 °C, fails to heat above 230 °C), issues start to happen at temps as low as 210 °C.&#xA;Creality support is evasive/dodgy. First, they want to see a video proof for the problem reported, and after a while and emails from me asking, suggested something obvious (set temp to 200 °C).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And without any video, they don't respond. Just like last time when I ran into the defective/burned power switch and failed bed leveling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;If you have some spare time, please quickly check the video and provide some feedback.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I already fixed the burned power switch and auto-leveling (Creality ignored me, so I got the parts from Amazon).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the last issue that I need to do a &amp;quot;mercy&amp;quot; fix, so that I can either repurpose it or, just give it away (but I still have to make it working again and safe!).&#xA;I already placed an order for an i3 MK3S+, should've bought this in the first place to help me study 3D modeling, &lt;em&gt;not working my degree towards fixing Creality printer failures&lt;/em&gt; :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks in advance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My troubleshooting steps so far after a screw fell off during print:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Disassembled the hotend: found heater block loose, screws were bent and somewhat stripped&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Heater resistor has a bad crimp&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Thermistor is reading temp, but I don't know if it's accurate (don't have a multimeter+thermocouple)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ordered a hotend from AliExpress, hopefully, that's it&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25591" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-01-30T15:14:12.257" LastActivityDate="2021-02-07T08:07:39.780" Title="CR6-SE fails to heat hotend to set point" Tags="|troubleshooting|hotend|heat-management|creality-cr-6|creality|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15500" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15495" CreationDate="2021-01-30T03:52:58.753" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Cura Machine Settings, add &lt;code&gt;M302 S70&lt;/code&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Apparently, &lt;code&gt;M302 P1&lt;/code&gt; and &lt;code&gt;M302 S0&lt;/code&gt; do nothing, you need to define a non-zero minimum, and in my case, 70. Thanks to 0scar and Trish for your help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26585" LastEditorUserId="26585" LastEditDate="2021-01-30T05:49:27.263" LastActivityDate="2021-01-30T05:49:27.263" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15501" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15492" CreationDate="2021-01-30T06:21:46.667" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, it is possible to influence values of the E-parameter, even to make them integers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I see three possibilities:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;force firmware to support units smaller than mm - &lt;em&gt;suggested approach&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;force slicer to produce integer-like values - &lt;em&gt;most of below explanation&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;change meaning of E - &lt;em&gt;custom approach, including RPM interpretation&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Each of above needs post-processing of the G-Code output. There are some tools available, but required logic would need to be added (programmed). Some are simple scripts and this won't be difficult task. The rest of solution is much more difficult.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By the book, the &lt;code&gt;E&lt;/code&gt; value is new coordinate on the E (extruder) on axis, in current units. Unfortunately, the only position units reflected in standard G-Code are millimeters (see &lt;a href=&quot;https://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/G021.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;code&gt;G21&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/a&gt;) or inches (see &lt;a href=&quot;https://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/G020.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;code&gt;G20&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/a&gt;). Therefore using integer values would mean very limited resolution, at least 1 mm of filament pushed at a time. Introducing &lt;strong&gt;smaller unit into firmware&lt;/strong&gt; seems to be most reasonable approach.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Tools to post-process G-Code files&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The G-Code generated by slicer would contain &lt;code&gt;Ennn&lt;/code&gt; values as fractions in millimeters (or millimeters). Generated file may be post processed line by line to alter these values. There are many examples of scripts or tools doing similar job.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One example is simple python script &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/jhessig/metric-gcode-truncator&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;metric-gcode-truncator&lt;/a&gt; stripping numbers to 4 decimal places. Simple changes to this scirpt could be sufficient in simplest cases.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found this script listed between other &lt;a href=&quot;https://wiki.shapeoko.com/index.php/G-Code_Utilities&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;G-Code Utilities&lt;/a&gt;. Also, I found source code of &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/bkubicek/grecode&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;grecode&lt;/a&gt;, which seem to be much more comprehensive G-Code transformation tool, but with no similar functionality out of the box.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next improvement would be to use the script as slicer plugin, to streamline the everyday process. Maybe some existing Cura plugin could be a basis or example.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Support for smaller units in firmware&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First task is to &lt;strong&gt;select smaller unit&lt;/strong&gt; (like micrometre, nanometre, or even non-metric abstraction).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Source code of existing firmware must be the supplemented to properly intereprete such values. In Marlin focus should be on &lt;code&gt;parser.h&lt;/code&gt; and &lt;code&gt;parser.cpp&lt;/code&gt;, following keywords &lt;code&gt;INCH_MODE_SUPPORT&lt;/code&gt;, &lt;code&gt;LINEARUNIT_MM&lt;/code&gt; and &lt;code&gt;LINEARUNIT_INCH&lt;/code&gt;. Respective changes must be also added to configuration files.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Key inspiration in parser seems to be following part:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;static inline void set_input_linear_units(const LinearUnit units) {&#xA;  switch (units) {&#xA;    default:&#xA;    case LINEARUNIT_MM:   linear_unit_factor =  1.0f; break;&#xA;    case LINEARUNIT_INCH: linear_unit_factor = 25.4f; break;&#xA;  }&#xA;  volumetric_unit_factor = POW(linear_unit_factor, 3);&#xA;} &#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main difficuly would be to refine parser and the rest of code to ensure that new units are only used for E movements, not for other axes or G-Code commands related to speed or other settings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then, each G-Code file must be post-processed with prepared tool, which will recalculate and alter &lt;code&gt;Ennn&lt;/code&gt; values (or others), only for selected G-Code commands (this must relfect). For metric units it could be simple multiplication by 10&lt;sup&gt;n&lt;/sup&gt; (visually it is shifting a decimal point).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Summarizing, possibly &lt;strong&gt;the simplest&lt;/strong&gt; would be to just introduce new unit for all, and re-process G-Code files accodingly changing each value &lt;code&gt;X&lt;/code&gt;, &lt;code&gt;Y&lt;/code&gt;, &lt;code&gt;Z&lt;/code&gt;, &lt;code&gt;E&lt;/code&gt;. I cannot advice how such changes would affect &lt;code&gt;F&lt;/code&gt; (feedrate), speed and acceleration settings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Slicer producing integer values of &lt;code&gt;E&lt;/code&gt; parameter&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Long story short:&lt;/strong&gt; decrease steps/mm (firmware/printer), decrease filament diameter (slicer), then &lt;code&gt;Ennn&lt;/code&gt; values in G-Code will shoot up and could be rounded to integers without drastical loose of quality. Units for extrusion become then fake (scaled).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Software may not be ready to support adequately low values (configuration, rounding) or high values (calculations). So in practice the values configuration could not by as minimal as wished, which would more or less impact the quality. There are is speed setting trouble, beacuse extrusion speed is correlated with movement speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Detailed theoretical explanation and example calculations are below.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Steps/mm&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However this is still useful, because each printing firmware has configurable steps/mm setting (or some analogous constant value). Steps/mm is basic and known characteristic of extruder, representing number of (micro)steps of extruder's stepper motor to push this 1 millimeter of filament (traverse E axis). If this steps/mm constant will be set to &lt;code&gt;1&lt;/code&gt;, then extruder will make only 1 (micro)step for &lt;code&gt;G1 E1&lt;/code&gt;. This change could be done in firmware configuraton, temporarily with G-Code &lt;a href=&quot;https://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M092.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;code&gt;M92 E1&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/a&gt;, or stored to EEPROM.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Volume&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Filament is a long cylinder, and extrusion length is height of short cylinder (segment of whole): &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$l= \frac {4 V} {\pi d^2} R$&lt;/span&gt;, where:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;V - volume necessary to pring path, internally calculated by slicer software&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;d - diameter of filament configured in slicer&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;R - customized extrusion multiplier setting (R) a.k.a. flow rate. (It was introduced for fine tuning, in runtime or when chaniging filaments, to avoid workarounds like manipulating steps/mm or diameter to untrue values. This parameter is not really important for this discusion, included only for completness.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Printer configuration&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1 mm of filament translates to actual volume of material (mm&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt;). The correct steps/mm is very important, so the rotation of motor (travel along E axis) will really extrude the expected amount. If value of steps/mm configured in printer is reduced, then interpreted G-Code commands will be translated to too short distances (less steps). To ensure the needed volume, either more millimeters would have to be ordered (&lt;code&gt;G1 Ennn&lt;/code&gt;) or filament would have to be thicker. Filament is what it is, so only the first choice is possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, using 1,75 mm filament and having extruder which needs to make 760 steps to push 1 mm (a fact, determined hardware characteristics), then to extrude 1 mm&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;if printer is set for 760 steps/mm (correctly), then G-Code must contain correct &lt;code&gt;E0.415752&lt;/code&gt; mm for adequately long cylinder being pushed throught the nozzle&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;if printer is &amp;quot;misconfigured&amp;quot; for 1 step/mm, then G-Code must contain edaquately scaled value &lt;code&gt;E315.9713&lt;/code&gt; for the same cyllinder to be pushed (760x bigger number). The value is actually an exact number of (micro)steps. And it is big. Decimal part is negligible. It can be safely rounded to integer.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For practical use, the printer's speed settings and limits would need to be also multiplied for extrusion and retraction. Otherwise extruder moves would be slower by scaling factor, with negative side effects of hot filament behaving on its own.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Right place of scaling&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So how to obtain this scaling? Simplest way is to increase flow rate in the printer (e.g. to 760%). This will scale &lt;code&gt;Ennn&lt;/code&gt; values form G-Code in runtime. An original G-Code is needed for this, with tiny numbers. So this is not a solution for integers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then how to force slicer to produce G-Code with scaled numbers?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Slicer configuration&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Slicer calculates volume required to print some fragment and coverts it to millimeters of filament, basing on configured diameter. So this diameter is also very important. Everything must match. If very small diameter is set in slicer, this will drastically increase length of filament pushed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;For 1.75 mm filament, to extrude 1 mm&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt; volume, slicer will order to push &lt;code&gt;E0.415752&lt;/code&gt; mm.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;After changing configured filament diameter to 0.01 mm, slicer would order to push &lt;code&gt;E12732.4&lt;/code&gt; mm. This is big number. But not even similar to the above needed length &lt;code&gt;E315.9713&lt;/code&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Slicer usually adds speed (feedrate) information to G-Code. So any speed settings and limits for extrusion and retraction would need to be multiplied also in slicer. There are also other settings to modify, like retraction distance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Matching equation&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Change of diameter must reflect the change of steps/mm. The proportion could be derived from cylinder volume formula. Diameter to configure in slicer is &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$d= D \sqrt { \frac L l}$&lt;/span&gt;, where:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;D - real diameter of filament&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;L - standard extrusion distance: height of cylinder having some referenced volume and D diameter, if steps/mm reflect actual hardware&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;l - scaled extrusion distance: height of cylinder having the same referenced volume, if steps/mm reflect actual printer configuration&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Values for calculation need to be determined for some example volume. This was already done. Following previous examples, diameter required in slicer is: &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$d= 1.75 \sqrt { \frac {0.415752} {315.9713}} = 0.063479$&lt;/span&gt;. Then still providing 1.75 mm filament to the same extruder, slicer will produce big values like &lt;code&gt;E315.9713&lt;/code&gt;, but printer will perform olny one (micro)step for one milimeter in G-Code.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Remove fractional part&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The generated G-Code would still include fractional part in &lt;code&gt;Ennn&lt;/code&gt; values. The file should be post processed line by line to remove it. Simple script will do the job. It could be simple &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/jhessig/metric-gcode-truncator&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;metric-gcode-truncator&lt;/a&gt;, after changing pattern to &lt;code&gt;([E][0-9]*)([.][0-9]+)&lt;/code&gt; (not tested). An improvement for quality would be to use rouding instead of truncating decimal part.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Cumulative discrepancies&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is serious disadvantage of such simple post-processing approach. The total of extruded material will vary, depending a bit on rounding approach. The fractional part is lost, so there may be impact on accuracy with over- or under-extrusion here or there. Post-processing could instead collect these rounded fractions and try to equally compensate for it in following moves, to minimize the total aberration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I believe that the same could happen inside printer's firmware program, when it traverse floating-number distances, but this is only an assumption. Wihout fractional part, firmware will no have data to compensate anything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Even more accurate?&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because firmware can accepts fractions below 1 for steps/mm (Marlin would accept 0.01), then theoretically the scale could be even bigger - and so &lt;code&gt;Ennn&lt;/code&gt; values. Slicer must support adequately low diameter. (In extreme cases this could trigger unexpected overflows or errors or be blocked by software.) Printer will then multiply &lt;code&gt;E&lt;/code&gt; values by fraction (steps/mm). Extruding resolution is still limited to 1 (miro)step. But if firmware acumulate rounded fractional parts in runtime and compensate, then total amount extruded per layer would be more precise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Real-live attempt to slice&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It was possible to set 0,01 filament diameter in Cura, after tweaking the extruder profile for such very thin filament. Nozzle diameter must be set to real size, becuase it affects many parameters of slicing. The total use of filament in my sample G-Code was &amp;gt;52km. File contains entries like:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;G1 X72.976 Y63.428 E2623.66351&#xA;G1 X74.498 Y61.523 E2607.85791&#xA;G1 F1500 E-608&#xA;G0 F1800 X107.344 Y85.452&#xA;G1 F1500 E608&#xA;G1 F1200 X107.583 Y85.642 E326.54744&#xA;G1 X107.988 Y85.938 E536.51282&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Estimated print time is &amp;gt;5 days. The &lt;code&gt;F&lt;/code&gt; parameter is presumably used also by extruder, then the whole print will still slow down. To make the print really happen, possibly all speed settings in slicer would need to be tweaked (i.e. print speed for walls, top/bottom skin, infill, etc.). Then only hard speed limits in firmware would block rapid movements. Outcome quality will be most likely compromised.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Custom approaches (own G-Code flavor)&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Slicer will always calculate length (travel distance), otherwise it would be against the G-Code standard. At least I did not hear of any slicing software, which would output something else then length for extrusion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In some own custom firmware value of &lt;code&gt;E&lt;/code&gt; parameter could be defined in any own way. For example, the &lt;code&gt;E&lt;/code&gt; value could be defined exaclty as number of (micro)steps for extruder's stepper motor, angle of rotation refleced as integer, etc. Distance calculated by slicer would need to be re-calculated in G-Code post processing, to match requirements of this firmware.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Own piece software would be then needed to perform re-calculations (simple or not) and overwrite the original &lt;code&gt;E&lt;/code&gt; values. The code could be possibly inspired by some of listed above, but the calculation logic need to match specification from firmware. Possibly this could become own plugin to Cura or other slicer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;RPM approach (critique of the idea)&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An attempt to interprete &lt;code&gt;E&lt;/code&gt; value as RPM (rounds per minute) is of no use, until it is synchronized with real speed of printing head movement, i.e. other motors performing movement along owne vectors to print the effective path. It is probably possible to calculate, but sounds like creating own G-Code flavor, which would ignore many other important parameters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of them is &lt;code&gt;F&lt;/code&gt; parameter defined in several G-Code commands (including &lt;code&gt;G1&lt;/code&gt;). It determines movement speed for traversing the path. It may change from move to move, making use of acceleration settings. What is worse then, it is expected to be remembered between commands and used for consecutive printer moves. Therefore focusing on single line of G-Code won't tell the whole plan of slicer, and the sophisticated plan reflected in G-Code file would be only partially executed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;RPM approach could seem interesting, if it could ensure constant speed of extruder. This would be ideal for the pressure control. But it would also come at cost of printing speed, with no accelleration control.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26170" LastEditorUserId="26170" LastEditDate="2021-01-31T02:45:04.617" LastActivityDate="2021-01-31T02:45:04.617" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15503" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15516" CreationDate="2021-01-30T15:28:11.253" Score="2" ViewCount="2136" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've just changed the motherboard on my Ender 3 Pro with a MKS GEN_L v1.0 and flashed the latest Marlin version on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've calibrated my bed manually using the default XY and Z auto home commands on OctoPrint and a piece of paper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm happy with the calibration, however whenever I launch a print the Z axis moves up from the calibrated position by about 4 mm and starts extruding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've checked my Z endstop status with &lt;code&gt;M119&lt;/code&gt; and it's triggered at the right calibrated position.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I correct this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26601" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-01-30T17:36:58.517" LastActivityDate="2021-01-31T18:46:08.987" Title="Issue with Z homing on Ender 3 Pro with Marlin" Tags="|marlin|creality-ender-3|z-axis|homing|endstop|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15504" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15159" CreationDate="2021-01-30T16:24:47.780" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;To combat the bad top layers, I usually use usually 5 top layers for any model of layer height 0.1 to 0.3 mm. I generally don't print with less than 9 % infill for PLA, which I have found sufficient to support even complex geometry on top.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, I generally use a mixed setup of layers: the outermost layers I demand as concentric because this is the most beautiful setup, while the lower levels are Zig-Zag patterned, as this gives the best layer-to-wall connection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2021-01-30T18:01:23.753" LastActivityDate="2021-01-30T18:01:23.753" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15506" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15503" CreationDate="2021-01-30T23:47:50.757" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are already sure that homing is performed correctly and in valid position, then there are few reasons why printer may start printing in unexpected position.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do the following checks to narrow down the actual one:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;steps/mm&lt;/strong&gt;: use &lt;a href=&quot;https://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M503.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;code&gt;M503&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/a&gt; (or &lt;a href=&quot;https://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M092.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;code&gt;M92&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/a&gt; without parameters) to check if currently configured steps/mm match &lt;a href=&quot;https://blog.prusaprinters.org/calculator_3416/#steppermotors&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;your hardware setup&lt;/a&gt; for each axis&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;offsets:&lt;/strong&gt; use &lt;a href=&quot;https://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M503.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;code&gt;M503&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/a&gt; (or &lt;a href=&quot;https://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M206.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;code&gt;M206&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/a&gt; without parameters) to check that there are no offsets configured&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;backoff:&lt;/strong&gt; look in &lt;em&gt;Configuration_adv.h&lt;/em&gt; for following line:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;//#define HOMING_BACKOFF_POST_MM { 2, 2, 2 }  // (mm) Backoff from endstops after homing&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Having the backoff set is nothing wrong, actually. But be sure to also check final positioning in the generated file.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;slicer's Start G-code:&lt;/strong&gt; review slicer configuration, if there is nothing suspicious injected to the print file, which could temporarily overrid printer setup - esepecially &lt;a href=&quot;https://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M428.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;M428&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;https://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M206.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;M206&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;https://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/G092.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;G92&lt;/a&gt; &lt;em&gt;(set position is normal for E in relative extrusion mode, but suspicious for X,Y,Z)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;generated file:&lt;/strong&gt; review initial part of generated G-Code file, if there are any similar surprises, and if on initial layer section there is expected move to valid Z position before extrusion is made&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26170" LastEditorUserId="26170" LastEditDate="2021-01-31T18:46:08.987" LastActivityDate="2021-01-31T18:46:08.987" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15507" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15498" CreationDate="2021-01-31T00:30:46.100" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Perform &lt;strong&gt;PID calibration&lt;/strong&gt; procedure for hotend using G-code &lt;a href=&quot;https://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M303.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;'M303'&lt;/a&gt; with &lt;strong&gt;nozzle fans turned off&lt;/strong&gt; completely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may use detailed guidelines from &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.akeric.com/blog/?p=4276#PID_Autotune_the_hotend&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;AK Eric's blog&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/wiki/PID_Tuning&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;RepRap wiki&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.3dmakerengineering.com/blogs/3d-printing/pid-tuning-marlin-firmware&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;3DMaker Engineering&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this will improve or clearly change the situation, but you still observe some issues during or after tuning, review other posts for &lt;strong&gt;troubleshooting&lt;/strong&gt;. For example: &lt;a href=&quot;/q/12129/&quot;&gt;large initial overshoot, no oscillations&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;/q/13401/&quot;&gt;struggle to fit into functional range&lt;/a&gt; or narrowed down &lt;a href=&quot;/q/13691/&quot;&gt;hardware issues of incorrect heating cartridges&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When succeeded, you should repeat the procedure with fans enabled at the regular speed you use during printing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PID calibration can be performed from Marlin's LCD menu (&lt;em&gt;Configuration &amp;gt; Advanced Settings &amp;gt; Temperature &amp;gt; PID Autotune E1&lt;/em&gt;). It will allow to select target temperature, but not number of tuning cycles. It is only accessible when &lt;code&gt;PID_AUTOTUNE_MENU&lt;/code&gt; is enabled in firmware settings (&lt;em&gt;Configuration.h&lt;/em&gt;):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;//#define PID_EDIT_MENU         // Add PID editing to the &amp;quot;Advanced Settings&amp;quot; menu. (~700 bytes of PROGMEM)&#xA;#define PID_AUTOTUNE_MENU     // Add PID auto-tuning to the &amp;quot;Advanced Settings&amp;quot; menu. (~250 bytes of PROGMEM)&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26170" LastEditorUserId="26170" LastEditDate="2021-02-01T07:49:40.623" LastActivityDate="2021-02-01T07:49:40.623" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15508" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3595" CreationDate="2021-01-31T03:13:33.897" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Install GPX via command line. To do this, type&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;code&gt;/home/pi/oprint/bin/pip install &amp;quot;https://markwal.github.io/octoprint-download/OctoPrint-GPX.tgz&amp;quot;&lt;/code&gt;&#xA;then go ahead and restart octoprint and try connecting again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26609" LastActivityDate="2021-01-31T03:13:33.897" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15510" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14817" CreationDate="2021-01-31T04:16:00.010" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For some reason the Z axis finishes homing with the extruder 6 mm above the bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If homing Z axes seems proper - i.e. nozzle is &amp;quot;touching&amp;quot; the bed during proces, and not going below the bed level) - then homing may be correct. Otherwise &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/6376/26170&quot;&gt;do troubleshooting&lt;/a&gt;, as has been suggested in comments. Check also the &lt;a href=&quot;/a/15353/26170&quot;&gt;offset and backoff settings&lt;/a&gt;. All these should allow to explain these 6 mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The extruder goes below the bed to start printing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Follow &lt;a href=&quot;/a/15506/26170&quot;&gt;this checklist about starting point&lt;/a&gt; to find out any other reasons which could come into play when printing starts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26170" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-01-31T09:29:46.653" LastActivityDate="2021-01-31T09:29:46.653" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15511" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-01-31T05:10:20.857" Score="2" ViewCount="2066" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am going to make a filter for the enclosure of a 3D printer and want to remove both VOC's (with activated carbon) and Ultra Fine Particles (with a HEPA filter). But in what order should the filters be?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am thinking that if I put the HEPA first, one will get carbon dust into the air (and that is probably not harmful), and if I put the carbon filter first the carbon will be clogged up with UFP faster and the HEPA will be clogged up with carbon dust.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26611" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2021-01-31T12:48:08.443" LastActivityDate="2021-02-01T16:29:37.047" Title="Order of a HEPA filter and Carbon filter in a filter-stack" Tags="|safety|enclosure|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15512" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13805" CreationDate="2021-01-31T05:43:44.687" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Comparing printing results of some G-code with results of samples generated by a slicer with many unknown settings is too superficial. You need to do more insight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can learn by comparing G-code files, but I suppose it would not be sufficient to have successful prints. You can also learn from tutorials on how to properly configure slicer. Understanding &lt;a href=&quot;https://all3dp.com/1/cura-tutorial-software-slicer-cura-3d/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;slicer setting&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;https://cults3d.com/en/blog/articles/identify-correct-3D-printing-problems-defaults&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;common printing issues&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;https://toms3d.org/2018/02/02/things-know-filaments/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;physics of plascic&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;https://manual.slic3r.org/advanced/flow-math&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;printing&lt;/a&gt; is very helpful for troubleshooting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Between files there are number of parameters which could be different, including:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;slicer software, its approach (algorithms) and settings - &lt;em&gt;most probably it was Cura in both cases, but many settings could be different - if you have both profiles, then you may comare them setting by setting (thoguh it is not easy in Cura, but see next)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;notes in comments (in opening and ending sections of file) - &lt;em&gt;Cura is printing lot of profile settings at the end of the file&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;G-code initialization commands in opening section of file - *there may be key changes to printer configuration, and also information about following *&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;temperature settings - &lt;em&gt;you can read it from G-code or from LCD, when print is started&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;retraction and speed settings - &lt;em&gt;you can read it from E move commands&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;layer height - &lt;em&gt;you can read it from Z move commands&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;total use of filament per print - &lt;em&gt;use analyzer, see below&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;printhead movements (including experimental Fuzzy Skin) - &lt;em&gt;check settings, and use visualisation in Cura just after slicing&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Machine profile (&amp;quot;S5 printer selected&amp;quot;) in Cura intoduces subset of default settings. In CR-10 S5 profile created by Creality many settings may be very different than in profile for Ender 3. And still author of original G-code file could update many of these settings before slicing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can compare two G-code files for the same shape in &lt;a href=&quot;https://gcode.ws/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;GCode Analyzer&lt;/a&gt;. For easier work you may open two or more analysers in separate browser tabs. There are many useful information calculated from G-code - about &lt;em&gt;Model&lt;/em&gt; (like &amp;quot;Total filament used&amp;quot;) and and &lt;em&gt;Layer&lt;/em&gt; (like &amp;quot;Retract speeds&amp;quot;). Layers may be changed in &lt;em&gt;2D&lt;/em&gt; view with right scroolbar (clik the square scroll indicator and use Up and Down arrows on keyboard).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26170" LastEditorUserId="26170" LastEditDate="2021-01-31T05:52:23.370" LastActivityDate="2021-01-31T05:52:23.370" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15513" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15514" CreationDate="2021-01-31T11:13:46.037" Score="1" ViewCount="86" Body="&lt;p&gt;I own a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.magicbuild3dprinter.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Magic Build 3D Printer&lt;/a&gt;. I found out, that the glass is scratched like in the picture.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, I'm looking for a replacement glass plane to put in front of the projector. Is this a special glass? What are the properties? Where can I find it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DeMqO.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DeMqO.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23759" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2021-01-31T12:24:13.703" LastActivityDate="2021-03-02T13:03:05.347" Title="What type is that glass?" Tags="|replacement-parts|dlp|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15514" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15513" CreationDate="2021-01-31T12:21:44.863" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a sheet of glass you'd most likely need to acquire as a replacement part &lt;strong&gt;for your printer's manufacturer&lt;/strong&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The dimensions of the glass, especially with the rounded corners, are usually very odd and make buying a spare from a glassmaker really expensive.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Some printers like the Elegoo Mars have an LCD mounted as part of this sheet.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Printers also might have this plate coated for different properties, for example, to reduce reflectivity and refraction inside the printer.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this case, we have a DLP setup that uses a projector. You best inquire at the manufacturer itself using their &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.magicbuild3dprinter.com/iletisim/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;website&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://sales@yourcompany.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;E-Mail&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.facebook.com/magicbuild3D/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;facebook&lt;/a&gt; about a few spare pieces - that will get you the same quality as the bed you already had (save for the scratches) and they usually have such items in stock.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastActivityDate="2021-01-31T12:21:44.863" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15515" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15511" CreationDate="2021-01-31T12:41:49.250" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The easiest way is to look at a profesional dry filter stack first to learn how a filter stack is usually made. So, let me grab my Dyson vacuum cleaner. On the intake side I get the following stack:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;large particle trap&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;foam filter for medium particles&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;HEPA filter&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Incidentally, that's the same setup as my Shop-Vaccum has (though the foam filter gets replaced by a paper bag)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I googled other dry filters, I found these filter stacks as common:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;large particle wavy paper filter then combined Carbon-HEPA filter (carbon first)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2 x Nylon-Mesh, Carbon, HEPA&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The idea is to reduce the particulate grain the deeper you go into the filter. The rough filter is cleanable, the carbon filter traps chemicals and odor that might damage the HEPA filter, the HEPA filter catches any remaining particles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to know more about various filter types and applications, you might want to read an &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.globalspec.com/learnmore/manufacturing_process_equipment/filtration_separation_products/air_filters&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;article on engineering 360&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Safety pointer&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Carbon dust is not &lt;em&gt;not harmful&lt;/em&gt; - it is both flammable to explosive, as well as resulting in &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Coalworker%27s_pneumoconiosis&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Black Lung (Coalworker's pneumoconiosis)&lt;/a&gt; if it is thrown into the air like in a mine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, commercially produced carbon filters &lt;strong&gt;don't&lt;/strong&gt; usually release any coal dust: after making the activated coal, the product is shaped (as you can see in &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/UkL6zzOL3QA&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this manufacturer video&lt;/a&gt;) and sorted into various grains, like in the photo below. These granulate are then put into the carbon filter and trapped in a mesh that is small enough to keep them even after having been broken apart some. Very fine grains like the Bead Barbon are usually used in wet applications.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/X20bK.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/X20bK.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In a kitchen, you have sticks of 3-4 mm diameter, often trapped in a metal mesh. ABC-Mask filters usually use very porous carbon-grains in the half to millimeter grain size, trapped between paper sheets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2021-02-01T16:29:37.047" LastActivityDate="2021-02-01T16:29:37.047" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15516" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15503" CreationDate="2021-01-31T18:34:12.960" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've actually found what the issue was. It turns out that my Z steps were way out of whack (i.e. 4000 steps/mm instead of 400). Apparently, that's the default value in GitHub for version 2.0 of Marlin. Not sure if that's a typo or a valid value, anyhow setting it to 400 fixed it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26601" LastActivityDate="2021-01-31T18:34:12.960" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15517" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-01-31T19:39:36.950" Score="2" ViewCount="2415" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't see filament thickness in &lt;code&gt;Cura&lt;/code&gt;. How can it work without it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9c4bK.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9c4bK.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20403" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-01-31T21:11:33.743" LastActivityDate="2021-01-31T21:11:33.743" Title="Where is filament thickness setting in Cura?" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|filament|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15518" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15517" CreationDate="2021-01-31T20:44:17.580" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are two important settings related to filament thickness in Cura 4.8.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They are in Preferences window (open menu Preferences &amp;gt; Configure Cura):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Printers &amp;gt; Machine Settings &amp;gt; Extruder 1 &amp;gt; &lt;strong&gt;Compatibile material diameter&lt;/strong&gt; - this setting will influence visibility of materials available on the list in next point.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Materials &amp;gt; Information &amp;gt; &lt;strong&gt;Diameter&lt;/strong&gt; - width of filament currently selected in the list.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Important remarks:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;After selecting a filament from list you may alter its settings. But it will not become the active filament for printing until you press &amp;quot;Activate&amp;quot; button above the list.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Extruder settings (Nozzle size, Compatibile material diameter) will be always displayed with &amp;quot;.&amp;quot; (dot) for decimal point. But if your regional settings (in operation system) use &amp;quot;,&amp;quot; (comma) for decimal point, then the only way to enter new settings is use comma, otherwise they won't be saved. From my observations this defect concers only this single window.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26170" LastActivityDate="2021-01-31T20:44:17.580" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15519" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-02-01T03:05:23.823" Score="2" ViewCount="416" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've read a bunch of articles about getting better springs for my bed levelling screws so that I don't have to adjust it as often because standard springs vibrate loose as it prints.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, would it be simpler and more effective to just use Nyloc nuts tightened against the adjustment wheels so that the wheels cannot rotate? Or some other form of mechanical prevention of the wheels turning? For example, tie a piece of string between the spokes in opposite wheels, so they cannot rotate much relative to each other.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26621" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2021-02-01T04:15:34.387" LastActivityDate="2021-02-01T17:47:39.857" Title="Rather than stiffer springs, can I preserve my fine-tuned bed height using Nyloc nuts?" Tags="|bed-leveling|bed|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15520" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15519" CreationDate="2021-02-01T04:17:59.007" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's because the bed heats up. Since the bed can heat up to the point that locktite or nylon can soften, using those products to keep the screws from turning will have exactly the opposite effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12857" LastActivityDate="2021-02-01T04:17:59.007" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15521" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15525" CreationDate="2021-02-01T06:58:27.727" Score="1" ViewCount="1492" Body="&lt;p&gt;What should I take care of to replace the nozzle of the hotend assembly the right way?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What kind of data, precautions, tools, steps, and verification are important for replacing the nozzle?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The procedure seems straightforward but tutorials differ greatly and seem often incomplete. Online videos are great but long, sometimes misleading, and difficult to compare if they use another printer model.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;This &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=txt6sxV6X88&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Prusa 3D tutorial&lt;/a&gt; starts from heating the nozzle to 280 °C, which is dangerous for some hotend setups. Also, it is created around a direct drive extruder, so it does not advise to what to do with a Bowden tube.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Another &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FRzsGttNMyk&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Changing Nozzles &amp;amp; Bowden Tubes video&lt;/a&gt; seems to be a great tutorial but advises heating only to ~210 °C. So I need to make sure I know my hardware limits first? Should I take something else into account about temperature, or just act by experience, &lt;a href=&quot;/a/11648/26170&quot;&gt;starting from 230 °C&lt;/a&gt;?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is that heating mandatory, or only &lt;a href=&quot;/a/5123/26170&quot;&gt;when there is residue filament inside&lt;/a&gt;? If there is something to consider about &lt;a href=&quot;/q/8064/&quot;&gt;replacement nozzle&lt;/a&gt; before installing it, or cooling down again, like PID calibration?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I am looking for a general overview: &lt;strong&gt;what should I think of&lt;/strong&gt; to be in control? And maybe a bit of &lt;strong&gt;why&lt;/strong&gt;, but not necessarily how. (As always, each detail may be a separate study, so please don't to fall into troubleshooting, which could be done in separate questions like &lt;a href=&quot;/q/11646/&quot;&gt;E3D V6 nozzle seized into heater block&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26170" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2021-02-01T23:29:58.663" LastActivityDate="2021-02-02T21:09:52.603" Title="How to replace the nozzle in my hotend assembly?" Tags="|nozzle|fdm|safety|maintenance|knowledgebase|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15522" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-02-01T10:59:53.950" Score="2" ViewCount="145" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got a problem with the new &amp;quot;thin features&amp;quot; -solution in S3D. The model I want to print has some tapered thin walls, but also some thicker parts. I want to use this option for filling the gaps usually occurring when the wall thickness is just slightly greater than a multiple of the extrusion width.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Extrusion width: 0.48 mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wall thickness: 2 mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Printing my model with this option enabled just doesn't work properly. Now the entire print is massively under extruded, the shells can be peeled like an onion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wanted to enable this feature because the thin features must be pretty tough and I don't have a clue why it affects every feature in such an inconvenient way. I've made sure that the Nozzle isn't clogged, the temperatures and other settings are right and there are no other new options enabled.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My setup:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ender 3 Pro, direct drive&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;ExWidth auto 0.48&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Speed 60 mm/s&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;External thin feature: single extrusion&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Internal thin feature: single extrusion&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Material PETG&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;default extrusion multiplier: 1&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is Simplify3D able to distinguish thin features from thick ones or to not under extrude every feature by enabling single extrusion gap filling?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25805" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2021-07-17T00:44:05.507" LastActivityDate="2021-07-17T00:44:05.507" Title="Is there a possibility to add variable extrusion width to models with different wall features? (Simplify3d)" Tags="|creality-ender-3|simplify3d|underextrusion|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15523" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15521" CreationDate="2021-02-01T15:41:06.057" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The exact procedure depends on the design of the printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After unloading filament, remove and install the nozzle at the highest temperature you will run.  Otherwise, you will not get a good seal between the nozzle and heat break if you depending on tightening at lower than operating temperature.  A bad seal allows the filament to leak out (oozing).    Tighten and untighten the nozzle with wrenches on the heat break and nozzle.  The heat break is easily damaged if tightening too tight into the heat sink, but you need a tight connection between the nozzle and heat break.  This means the nozzle must tighten against the heat break and not tighten against the heater block; thus space between the nozzle flange and heater block when tightened against the heat break.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: If you had oozing, it will glue the nozzle and heat break to the heater block.  Heating the hot end will often allow you to remove the nozzle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note the electronics of some printer models can be damaged by shorting the nozzles to heater leads, thermistor leads, or even a metal bed.  Check for your model.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Running the hot end at 250 °C or above requires an all metal hot end (a heat break without Teflon) or the Teflon will degrade.  This also applies to Boden tubes that run all the way to your nozzle.  Look for instructions related to your Boden tube.  Go to max. temperature for operating with Boden tube, then you usually clamp the Boden tube in place so that it forms a good seal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15075" LastEditorUserId="15075" LastEditDate="2021-02-01T19:50:45.910" LastActivityDate="2021-02-01T19:50:45.910" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15525" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15521" CreationDate="2021-02-01T17:02:42.917" Score="2" Body="&lt;h1&gt;Tools&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;spanners / wrenches - &lt;em&gt;to turn both nozzles (common sizes are 6-8 metric wrenches)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;spanner / (fitting or adjustable) wrench - &lt;em&gt;to hold a heating block&lt;/em&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;or small vise  - &lt;em&gt;to hold a heating block (if you are going to unmount the hotend for operation), with non-flammable soft-jaws,&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;screwdriver(s)/Allan-keys - &lt;em&gt;when you need to remove shroud or plan to umount the hotend&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;non-flammable tray / plate (e.g. ceramic) - &lt;em&gt;to put removed, potentially hot nozzle aside&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;adequate personal protective equipment - &lt;em&gt;against getting your fingers burned, etc.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Precautions&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Beware of touching heater and thermistor wires with tools during operation. Electronics can be damaged by shorting the heater leads, thermistor leads, either with tools, the nozzle, or even a metal bed. Also, neither 12 V nor 24 V are pleasant to touch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using tools with plastic shielding can help to prevent this, but proper care is needed. Improvised rubber or tape wrappings are not advisable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Step 1: Unload&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Before swapping the nozzle, remove the filament. Follow the procedure of your manufacturer, though often this is heating the nozzle, then triggering the Swap-Filament or unload routine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many makers suggest a &lt;em&gt;cold-pull&lt;/em&gt;. This is heating up to about the print temperature, then going back to off. Letting the filament cool by about 20 °C, they then yank hard at the filament, removing most of the plastic from the nozzle and melt zone. It is not applicable to some nozzles, especially those made from several parts (e.g. Olsson Ruby).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have found it easier to put in an intermediate step of removing the whole hotend and use clamp it in a small vise to hold it on the heater block. This holds it steady and removes any stress from the heartbreak. However, this is more involved than using a fitting wrench to steady the heater block.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Step 2: Remove the nozzle&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Dismount the extruder shroud if it blocks the way to the heater block, or hasn't already been removed to get the hotend dismounted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have a lined hotend, remove the PTFE tube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you had oozing, this usually has glued the nozzle and heatbreak to the heater block. Heating the hot end to about the glass transition temperature of the filament will often make it easier (or possible) to remove the nozzle without stress to or damage to parts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now use a suitable wrench to remove the nozzle. &lt;strong&gt;Make sure to steady the heater block during this step&lt;/strong&gt;. Otherwise, you might shear off a necked heatbreak, while lined heatbreaks might get deformed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A Hot removed nozzle needs to be put aside on the safe surface or remain in the block with some windings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you work in a vise, you can remove the heatbreak too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Step 2.5: Cool down&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's best to let the hotend cool down, so you can easier handle the parts. Unless you had to fight with oozing, you can have the nozzle col down still halfway in the block and then do the last windings by hand on a cold nozzle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Step 3: Install new nozzle&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, screw in the new nozzle &lt;em&gt;hand tight&lt;/em&gt;. There should be at least half a millimeter stick-out between the nozzle flange and the heater block and it needs to butt against the heartbreak. (Nozzle must tighten against the heat break and not stress the heater block). Don't use a wrench yet, just hand tighten the nozzle against the heartbreak.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have a lined hotend, re-install the Bowden tube until it butts against the nozzle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Step 4: Hot tighten&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Heat up&lt;/strong&gt; the hotend to your limit temperature:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Generally: do it at the highest temperature you will run. Otherwise, you will not get a good seal between the nozzle and heat break if you depending on tightening at lower than operating temperature. A bad seal allows the filament to leak out (oozing). Do not exceed the limit for your hardware.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;For an all-metal hotend (a heat break without Teflon), this is dependant on your heater cartridge and thermosensor.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;For a lined hotend that is 245 °C. Teflon will degrade at 250 °C. This also applies to Bowden tubes that run all the way to your nozzle. Go to the maximum temperature for operating with your machine, then you usually clamp the Bowden tube in place so that it forms a good seal.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Now use the wrench&lt;/strong&gt; to tighten the heated nozzle carefully. Use a second wrench to steady the heater block, if you don't have the setup in a vise. &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/15541/wrench-drops-temperature-of-heater-block-when-tightening-nozzle&quot;&gt;Don't waste too much time&lt;/a&gt;, but don't over-torque!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The exchange is done. If the hotend was unmounted, remove it from the vise, reassemble it fully and install it on the printer again. Make sure that your hotend cooling fan does put the heater block in the airstream.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Step 5: Validation&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Run some filament through installed hotend. Observe if there is no ooze outside the nozzle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Step 6: Finishing&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If not already done, mount back the extruder shroud and any parts that had been removed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check homing of the Z-axis, as you will need to adjust the Z-height. If you have a sensor on the carriage, you might need to adjust its height to compensate for a slightly altered stickout of the nozzle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2021-02-02T21:09:52.603" LastActivityDate="2021-02-02T21:09:52.603" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15526" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15519" CreationDate="2021-02-01T17:38:53.540" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does your bed already have washers on the screws?  The neopreme (red) washer under the screw head (in picture).  This is the German Reprap X400 design and is worth trying.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jucy3.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jucy3.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/V3qrL.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/V3qrL.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15075" LastEditorUserId="15075" LastEditDate="2021-02-01T17:47:39.857" LastActivityDate="2021-02-01T17:47:39.857" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15527" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11673" CreationDate="2021-02-01T18:42:35.387" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This turned out to be a problem with the tightness of the rollers at the left and right sides of the X-axis gantry (that roll up and down the Z rails).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Z-axis motion is driven by a single stepper motor on the left side, so the rollers have to be just the right amount of tight to keep the right side in sync. If the right side is tighter or looser than the left then it lags behind, which gives the gantry a slight slant which changes as it goes up and down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the gantry is changing pitch throughout the print, no amount of bed leveling will help. Even auto-leveling is worthless, because the readings the BLTouch takes become immediately out of sync with the gantry as soon as it moves again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The solution is to adjust the eccentric nuts in the rollers on the left and right. The best description I could find is that they need to be just tight enough that there's some resistance if you roll the top wheel with your finger, but loose enough that you can roll it without forcing the gantry up and down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I ended up putting a magnetic digital level on top of the gantry rail so I could see exactly how much its incline changed. Send gcode to slide it up and down, then adjust the eccentric nuts a little bit, then repeat. Once I got it so the level didn't change, I re-leveled the bed and printed a beautiful first layer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That was almost a year ago and it's been working ever since. I've had to re-adjust the eccentric nuts periodically when things start to get off, probably due to thermal expansion when the weather changes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16902" LastActivityDate="2021-02-01T18:42:35.387" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15528" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15542" CreationDate="2021-02-01T19:03:35.150" Score="2" ViewCount="512" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an Ender 3 a 3DTouch, with the SKR Mini E3 1.2 board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From one day to another the probe started producing this pattern, where the right side of my bed (5x5 mesh, tried with 3x3, 7x7, all produce the same pattern) just drops by a significant amount.  The bed is the Creality glass bed. I tried switching it back to the stock Ender 3 plate (non-magnetic), but no physical sign of this drop can be seen by the eye.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Probe testing with &lt;code&gt;M048&lt;/code&gt; usually gave me Range ~0.005, and standard deviation between 0.001-0.0025 both in the problematic part, and any other part on the bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What could cause this problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QjEE3.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QjEE3.png&quot; alt=&quot;weird leveling bug&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26639" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-02-01T19:39:20.500" LastActivityDate="2021-02-02T18:36:52.553" Title="Ender 3 weird drop in bed level" Tags="|creality-ender-3|troubleshooting|bed-leveling|3dtouch|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15529" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15175" CreationDate="2021-02-01T21:00:51.193" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Traditional paper printing has the model where a &lt;strong&gt;document&lt;/strong&gt; is sent through a &lt;strong&gt;driver&lt;/strong&gt; to convert into instructions in a generic &lt;strong&gt;control language&lt;/strong&gt;, such as PCL, PostScript/PS, XPS, or UFR. The resulting commands are &lt;strong&gt;spooled&lt;/strong&gt; (queued as a group) by the computer to the &lt;strong&gt;printer&lt;/strong&gt;, which then renders it to paper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3D printing uses a similar process: a &lt;strong&gt;model&lt;/strong&gt; is sent through a &lt;strong&gt;slicer&lt;/strong&gt; to convert into instructions in the &lt;strong&gt;G-Code&lt;/strong&gt; control language&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;. The result is manually uploaded and invoked on the &lt;strong&gt;printer&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;, which then renders it in plastic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are some differences here. For example, the lack of spooling. Slicers usually produce entire G-Code files rather than sending individual instructions via USB. This is by design and preference. Paper prints take seconds; 3D prints take hours, and waste considerably more resources if they are interrupted. Much better not to have your computer involved in the actual printing process instruction-by-instruction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally, with 3D printing there are more ways to end up with the same result, and which is correct or better can vary greatly on the situation. A model may print with 5% infill, 2 walls, .24 mm layer heights, and 65 mm/s as a draft, or 95% infill, 5 walls, .1 mm layers heights, and 30 mm/s for the final product if it's structural. Or you might use anything in between as a display piece, or based on needs of the model from one to the next for things like overhangs, bridging, bed adhesion, and so forth. You might even need to print the same model in different materials, which also impacts temperatures and speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This gives the slicer a more central place in 3d printing. With traditional paper, you might never see your driver directly or only minimally, and instead invoke it from your word processor. This can happen with 3d printing, where the slicer is invoked directly from modelling software, but it's not the norm from my experience. Instead, &lt;em&gt;most models will want their own specific slicer settings&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And now we get at last to answer the question as asked.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This prominent position for the slicer has let to the rise of both commercial and open-source options that work with a wide variety of printers. For sure, there are specialty and experimental printers that require specific slicers, but that's not what a hobbyist is likely to encounter. You will almost certainly be able to select or import a pre-written profile for your printer in whichever slicer you choose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;There are exceptions, but they are rare and should be avoided by hobbyists.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;This still commonly happens by physically moving around an SD card, but wifi is becoming more common, as are options like &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/guysoft/OctoPi&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;OctoPi&lt;/a&gt;. Some systems do support &amp;quot;spooling&amp;quot; jobs directly from the slicer)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12562" LastEditorUserId="12562" LastEditDate="2021-02-01T21:07:40.153" LastActivityDate="2021-02-01T21:07:40.153" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15531" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15421" CreationDate="2021-02-02T08:03:52.173" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Issue seems to be resolved. I deleted my Marlin copy, downloaded a fresh copy and I started again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What worries me is how a working copy and a working printer can suddenly have this issue. Feel like this issue could come back as I never found the root cause.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23645" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-02-02T08:18:46.940" LastActivityDate="2021-02-02T08:18:46.940" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15532" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15327" CreationDate="2021-02-02T08:44:22.830" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just to add to octopus8 answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;BED WARM UP TIME&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ensure the bed is at the temperature. I have a new Creality glass bed and noticed that when the temperature hit 70 degrees I would touch the bed and glass would still be cold. I would give it a good 5 minutes to warm up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;NOZZLE DISTANCE&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is possible that you were on the borderline of sticking/not sticking with the last batch and this batch is mostly on the non-stick side. Move the nozzle a fraction closer using Z offset. We are talking like 0.01 increments.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23645" LastActivityDate="2021-02-02T08:44:22.830" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15534" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-02-02T11:20:39.470" Score="1" ViewCount="173" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am trying to combine CNC plotter with image processing. The goal is to detect the object and print on that object. My question is can we set the fully dynamic plotting area.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example: I want to print something on hand or finger. How do I tell the machine that this is hand and you have to print only on this hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I plan to detect the hand using a camera and set the hand as printing area in CNC firmware and the place G-code image on th finger. How to tell the CNC firmware that this is your printing area?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am using GRBL firmware with Arduino and use Pronterface as software.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26647" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2022-02-28T12:20:54.663" LastActivityDate="2022-02-28T12:20:54.663" Title="How to set the fully dynamic plotting area?" Tags="|g-code|pronterface|cnc|plotter|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15535" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-02-02T13:15:45.823" Score="3" ViewCount="842" Body="&lt;p&gt;Problem is that the probe is in the center of bed instead of the nozzle. How fix it on my Tronxy X5SA?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Those are my current settings and the nozzle is shifted from the centre (X: 35 mm, Y: 3 mm):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#define NOZZLE_TO_PROBE_OFFSET { -37, 3, 0 }&#xA;#define Z_SAFE_HOMING&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Marlin 2.0 configuration)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26650" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-02-03T08:17:27.140" LastActivityDate="2021-02-03T08:19:26.273" Title="Probe instead of nozzle centres on the bed" Tags="|marlin|troubleshooting|bed-leveling|tronxy-x5sa|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15536" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15535" CreationDate="2021-02-02T13:50:57.650" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;TL;DR&lt;/strong&gt; You don't need to fix it, it is by design.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When using a probe, defined the correct probe X (&lt;code&gt;xxx&lt;/code&gt;) and Y (&lt;code&gt;yyy&lt;/code&gt;) offsets (&lt;code&gt;#define NOZZLE_TO_PROBE_OFFSET { xxx, yyy, 0 }&lt;/code&gt;) and having enabled &lt;code&gt;#define Z_SAFE_HOMING&lt;/code&gt; will cause the probe to home in the middle. That is how it is supposed to work!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the nozzle would be in the center, then you wouldn't probe the middle of the bed, but the offset from the nozzle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-02-03T08:19:26.273" LastActivityDate="2021-02-03T08:19:26.273" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15538" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15334" CreationDate="2021-02-02T15:39:07.063" Score="1" Body="&lt;h1&gt;The problem&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;FDM printers slice models in STL or OBJ format. Neither of these formats can transmit properties like &lt;em&gt;Materials&lt;/em&gt;: they consist &lt;strong&gt;fully&lt;/strong&gt; of surface definitions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;But... Multi-Material printing is a thing, yes?&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, but Multi-material prints use a simple trick: a single STL object can contain &lt;em&gt;more&lt;/em&gt; than one surface definition, and you can slice more than one STL at once. But since slicers usually can't separate these from one another, they usually load multiple STLs and define the materials for each differently. For example, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3197896&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Adalinda&lt;/a&gt; has 4 different STLs, some containing multiple chunks of material, each STL corresponding to one printed color. And &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/MnOWX4Ujtv8?list=TLPQMDIwMjIwMjHXGYYAQZ7qbw&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;in this video Joel&lt;/a&gt; explains how printing that way works for an older version of the MMU.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, to print the &amp;quot;cubes&amp;quot; in a different material, you'd need to have two STLs: The grid as one export, and the cubes as another. Then the &lt;strong&gt;Rest&lt;/strong&gt; is slicing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Way around?&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, you might not have a Multi-Material Printer? Then you might want to design your item in parts that snap into place or have an interference fit. For example, you might print a plate with all the cubes on one side, and a grid that has a relief on the back where the plate goes. Then you print two times with different materials and push the cube part into the grate, some glue in between, and voila! It looks like one print from the surface. With a clamshell design, you might even completely hide the existence of the carrier plate - by having two grates that surround a hollow cavity for the cube-plate, and the cube plate pushes out into either of the clamshells.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastActivityDate="2021-02-02T15:39:07.063" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15540" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14360" CreationDate="2021-02-02T17:00:08.097" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an Ender 3 v2 and I haven't upgraded anything except updating the firmware. The first thing I suggest is updating the firmware and changing the hotend to an all-metal one. This will allow you to print in higher temperatures and adding a BLTouch for automatic bed leveling will make your life a bit easier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26656" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-02-02T22:05:32.467" LastActivityDate="2021-02-02T22:05:32.467" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15541" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15543" CreationDate="2021-02-02T17:31:07.470" Score="1" ViewCount="118" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've noticed when heating up the hotend to maximum operating temperature to tighten the nozzle against the heat break, after putting a wrench on the heater block, the temperature of the heater block drops by as much as 60 °C.  Do you ignore this or have a procedure to correct?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15075" LastActivityDate="2021-02-03T12:39:01.070" Title="Wrench drops temperature of heater block when tightening nozzle" Tags="|hotend|nozzle|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15542" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15528" CreationDate="2021-02-02T18:36:52.553" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Considering this is an Ender, it is probably caused by the rollers on the X axis or the un-driven right Z post.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've also seen behavior like this caused by a too constraint PTFE Bowden tube, at the far end the tube pulls on the carriage lifting it slightly upwards, hence a different/larger gap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2021-02-02T18:36:52.553" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15543" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15541" CreationDate="2021-02-02T19:00:05.577" Score="1" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Mitigating &amp;quot;heat loss&amp;quot;&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Technically, we don't lose heat, we have a &lt;em&gt;drain of thermal energy&lt;/em&gt; out of the parts, but let's stay simple.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To combat the loss into the holding/steadying wrench, I use a vise: it might lessen the heating curve by the added thermal mass if used &lt;em&gt;bare&lt;/em&gt;, but by adding two pieces of wood on either side of the heater block, I can insulate the block against the thermal drop from the steadying vise and atop that prevent scratches.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you use an adjustable wrench for the heater block, one can add wooden &amp;quot;soft jaws&amp;quot; with a little cyanoacrylate glue, otherwise, some painter's tape or Kapton might aid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It might help that my small wrenches have a super sturdy surface coating making them rather comfortable to use when left out in the cold and prevents rust. This layer also seems to prevent the flow of thermal energy into the wrench. Note that they are not &lt;em&gt;chrome-plated&lt;/em&gt; but more like an enamel-look, a glassy powder-coat or actually lacquered.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Conclusion&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I need to mount something installed on the printer, I do the tightening as quickly as possible - the temperature of the measurement point and the temperature of the nozzle getting pressed into the heartbreak do not drop in the same instance, the nozzle will still be at the aimed for temperature when the thermosensor already has dropped.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2021-02-03T12:39:01.070" LastActivityDate="2021-02-03T12:39:01.070" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15544" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11460" CreationDate="2021-02-03T00:48:39.563" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you followed the video verbatim then the pins file will be wrong, because he's changing the pins based on an MKS Gen 1.4 and not the SKR 1.3. All pins on the SKR will look similar to P2_04, which is the pin for the 2nd hotend terminal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26661" LastEditorUserId="26170" LastEditDate="2021-02-03T08:10:10.413" LastActivityDate="2021-02-03T08:10:10.413" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15545" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15534" CreationDate="2021-02-03T04:00:15.710" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the problem of &amp;quot;dynamic area&amp;quot;, or even &amp;quot;how to avoid missing the surface and boundaries&amp;quot; could be translated to &amp;quot;where to start well-defined job&amp;quot; - then it sounds to me like common task, with regards to philosophy of CNC machines. (Ok, until the surface is not moving around.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pronterface and GRBL work in Cartesain system. GRBL does not support mesh probing. So you must think about relatively flat, plane surfaces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my opinion, you need to fulfill following tasks to achieve the goal:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Define boundaries.&lt;/strong&gt; Hard and soft boundaries of device are supported by GRBL. You should setup them for overall safety.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Plan the job.&lt;/strong&gt; Recognize ranges of planned plot or print.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Secure the surface.&lt;/strong&gt; It must be appropriately stabilized. If you want to draw, the pen mount with spring will equalize variations of the surface (hand, finger, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/tag:eggbot&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;egg&lt;/a&gt;). 3D printing is sensitive to roughness and obliquity, we add raft/supports to overcome these - could be of use, until it doesn't mean missing your goal? (Don't print with hot filaments on fingers.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Establish point of reference.&lt;/strong&gt; You need to &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/8222/homing-the-3d-printer&quot;&gt;home your plotting or printing head somewhere in space&lt;/a&gt; in relation to the driving hardware. This is needed for any further actions. I envsion homing Z to the top of the frame, rather then against the target.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Detect surface.&lt;/strong&gt; Camera will help with horizontal borders (X,Y). You also need to measure the Z distance. The Z probe could be mechanical (then needs vertical movement) or some distance detector (like VL53L0X ?).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Validate fitting.&lt;/strong&gt; Ensure that the surface will accommodate ranges of planned job. This is actually the key point in my opinion. You need to know scope at the first place.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Program.&lt;/strong&gt; I see following options to pick and mix &lt;strong&gt;the final solution&lt;/strong&gt; from them:&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;G-code is generated prior to the whole procedure. You need to synchronize the starting point between the generated file and the real job range. Homing is done &amp;quot;manually&amp;quot; prior to executing the file. After surface is detected, the real starting point could be calculated and applied.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;G-code is generated after surface is detected. Job starts with homing, and first moves go from device's zero (home position) to selected starting point on the surface. All consecutive moves are planned within boundaries over the surface. So there is no risk to work outside the safe range.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;G-code is generated with relative positioning (incremental distance mode), having &lt;code&gt;G91&lt;/code&gt; in preamble. Then you just travel to the starting point and then run the commands from file.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;G-code is generated with absolute positioning (absolute distance mode). To run the job, you need to change coordinate system using commands like &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/gnea/grbl/wiki/Grbl-v1.1-Commands&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;code&gt;G10&lt;/code&gt;, &lt;code&gt;G54-G59&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;For printing, if there is a needed to match some flat shape to rought surface, then you may need to dynamically generate some supports/raft below the bottom of the printed part.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26170" LastActivityDate="2021-02-03T04:00:15.710" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15546" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-02-03T14:58:01.537" Score="1" ViewCount="217" Body="&lt;p&gt;When a part is thin and the overall layer time decreases below a certain threshold, the plastic has no time to cool down enough to solidify and properly support the next layer, resulting in low print quality. When the layer printing time is higher the issue does not exist, plastic cools down by itself due to the cooler environment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Slicers also have the option to slow down printing when the layer time decreases below a certain threshold, so that there is more time to cool the part, but this only down to a minimum printing speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming a variable fan speed is used, &lt;strong&gt;the following parameters play a role&lt;/strong&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;layer time threshold to turn on the fan at the minimum speed&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;layer time threshold to set the fan to its maximum speed and to start slowing down print speed&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;minimum printing speed to be used for layers smaller than the threshold number 2. (below this threshold 3. the layer time starts to decrease again)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously these parameter depend on the enclosure temperature, fan power, print temperature, flow rate, and so on. I'm assuming they are constant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Well, while we have very clear methods to calibrate most aspects of a printer (max extrusion rate, temperatures, E steps, ...) &lt;strong&gt;I haven't seen any procedure to calibrate all the cooling settings&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Often you see people (even experienced ones) use a temperature/fan tower to pick a fan speed, but this is not really correct: there's no point in using fan for big layers, while a single fan speed won't be enough for small layers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ideally, with optimal calibration, the part strength is not lowered by the use of a fan.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;How to systematically calibrate the above-mentioned parameters used to set variable fan speed?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: this is NOT about calibrating fan speed for bridges, which requires a different procedure, since excessive fan speed may blow away the bridge itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2338" LastEditorUserId="2338" LastEditDate="2021-02-08T21:20:35.333" LastActivityDate="2021-02-08T21:20:35.333" Title="How to systematically calibrate all the parameters of variable fan speed?" Tags="|calibration|cooling|print-fan|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15547" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11564" CreationDate="2021-02-03T22:09:36.103" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Stringing may depend on sub-optimal retraction settings: when retraction is fast and high enough, the string may be cut and disappear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may want to at least try to optimise retraction, at least to exclude that parameter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a tool designed to properly tune retraction:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://retractioncalibration.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://retractioncalibration.com/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What it does is print a tower with multiple retractions with increasing retraction distance around the perimeter. Along the Z axis the retraction speed is increased.&#xA;This tool does not include Z-hopping so stringing may be less visible, but at least you can easily visualise the optimal retraction settings. At that point if the optimal settings are much different from what you had, you may want to try your model again to see if it improved.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HVbns.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HVbns.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2338" LastEditorUserId="2338" LastEditDate="2021-02-04T10:48:15.740" LastActivityDate="2021-02-04T10:48:15.740" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15548" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-02-04T02:19:16.477" Score="2" ViewCount="939" Body="&lt;p&gt;I see that arcs are done on a two-axis plane.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;However, I am curious if it is possible to move from an &amp;lt;x,y,z&amp;gt; position to &amp;lt;x',y',z'&amp;gt;&#xA;&lt;code&gt;e.g &amp;lt;152, 559, -139&amp;gt; to &amp;lt;905, 279,-145&amp;gt;&lt;/code&gt; with an arcing z-axis.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Context:  I'm trying to move between the two coordinate points while dodging an obstacle by arcing the Z-axis movement.  I am trying to do the motion on command to be able to operate faster. Using GRBL 1.1&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fYDI7.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fYDI7.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26678" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-02-04T22:49:02.520" LastActivityDate="2021-02-04T22:49:02.520" Title="G-code for 3-axis arc? GRBL" Tags="|g-code|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15549" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6747" CreationDate="2021-02-04T04:21:58.720" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A 0.27 mm layer height is not correct for any printer, any nozzle/hotend, any file, and should never be used as a layer height variable for any FDM printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Layer height should be a factor of the diameter of your nozzle size. i.e. Your nozzle is 0.4 mm, so depending on your printer, your range of resolutions/layer heights could start as low as 0.04 mm, but is monumentally more likely to begin at 0.08 or 0.12 mm, with a maximum value being 0.28 mm, and maybe 0.32 mm if you're doing some risky/experimental spiralized vase printing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26679" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-02-04T22:52:18.403" LastActivityDate="2021-02-04T22:52:18.403" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15550" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15552" CreationDate="2021-02-04T06:56:09.140" Score="0" ViewCount="137" Body="&lt;p&gt;Apply / find / create a stainless steel coating to apply to a PETG or PLA part to make it react to a magnet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My goal is to make a small tubular and conical shapes that can be painted with a stainless steel coating and will react with a magnet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know I can buy iron filled PLA but these rust which I want to avoid.  &lt;strong&gt;I'm trying to get the magnetic properties of stainless steel (no rusting / reacts to magnets)&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have found videos on how to coat with copper / silver / carbon but I'm looking for stainless steel no rust / magnetic properties.&#xA;&lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/Nx-GwKOH5qc?start=0&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;I'm looking for a &amp;quot;low-cost&amp;quot; solution just for testing.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20878" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2021-02-05T08:45:51.027" LastActivityDate="2021-02-05T12:08:25.823" Title="Apply / find / create a stainless steel coating to apply to a PETG or PLA part to make it react to a magnet" Tags="|pla|post-processing|petg|material|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15551" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15548" CreationDate="2021-02-04T06:59:26.537" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This should be possible in GRBL 1.1, see examples below.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Disclaimer: I have never used neither GRBL nor arcs (&lt;code&gt;G2&lt;/code&gt;, &lt;code&gt;G3&lt;/code&gt;) in practice.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Support for arcs in G-code&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In general, in &lt;code&gt;IJK&lt;/code&gt; variant where the arc is described by three points (starting, end, center) anything seems possible, including the rainbow-like moves. I imagine (I,J,K) coordinates as imaginary arrow's nock for bent bow. By moving it around, you will &amp;quot;reshape&amp;quot; the bow as needed. I actually found similar &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.helmancnc.com/cnc-arc-programming-exercise/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;CNC Arc Programming Exercise&lt;/a&gt;, including:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;G01 X40 Z-25&#xA;G03 X70 Z-75 I-3.335 K-29.25&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and very interesting &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.cnccookbook.com/cnc-g-code-arc-circle-g02-g03/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Quick G-Code Arc Tutorial&lt;/a&gt; on CNC Cookbook. It presents &lt;code&gt;R&lt;/code&gt; variant example of helical moves (tread milling) with Z decreasing in steps (relative positioning):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;G03 X0.0939 Y0.0939 Z0.0179 R0.0939&#xA;G03 X-0.1179 Y0.1179 Z0.0179 R0.1179&#xA;G03 X-0.1185 Y-0.1185 Z0.0179 R0.1185&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Support for acrs in GRBL&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found similar question in Duet3d forum: &lt;a href=&quot;https://forum.duet3d.com/topic/12462/caution-stl-resolution/15&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Caution! - STL Resolution&lt;/a&gt;. There is a sentence:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On GRBL you get some planar support (pick any two axes, eg XZ, but not three). (...) Some controllers even implement a helix mode.. but no standards exist.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the support in GRBL may be limited. However this comment seems to be in condtradiction to the &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/gnea/grbl/blob/master/README.md&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;official GRBL README.md&lt;/a&gt;, saying:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;List of Supported G-Codes in Grbl v1.1:&#xA;(...)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Arc IJK Distance Modes: G91.1&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I leave a practical proof to you now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26170" LastActivityDate="2021-02-04T06:59:26.537" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15552" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15550" CreationDate="2021-02-04T13:23:25.583" Score="2" Body="&lt;h1&gt;The surface won't work&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only true-metallic surface treatments I know to be actual metal in large enough amounts to conduct electricity would be leafmetal, akin to leaf gold, and electroplating. However, you can't use the procedures for stainless steels, and even then, the thickness is in the tenth of a µm area and lower. Not only would that be far too thin to adhere a magnet to, it also would be super easy to damage with rubbing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Filling?&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PLA itself does not block magnetism - I have printed a PLA holder for a magnetic GPS device, into which I inserted a simple 0.5 mm steel plate for a magnetic surface with 0.5 mm of PLA acting as the container and seal against water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the prints can be done with one end open and no infill or have a dedicated area that a cheap piece of steel can be inserted into, this method can be used too. The only requirement is that there is a cavity on the inside that at some point is accessible. This also can be during the print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This cavity could either take a piece of shaped steel sheet or be filled with a different magnetic filler, for example, simple iron powder. The powder could be bound in a non-oxidizing polymer, for example, epoxy resin. This method has been used to &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.windstuffnow.com/main/poured_stator.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;create cast stators for electro motors&lt;/a&gt;. It's &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.fieldlines.com/index.php/topic,136931.msg902507.html?PHPSESSID=f201710e153b4520d5b59ec4d1475370#msg902507&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;not the most efficient&lt;/a&gt;, but might work in your application - if your walls are thin enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With the correct mixture, such a material can be used to coat or fill the inside with enough magnetic material to give the magnets something to stick to and not rust away - the shell and the resin together would shield the iron from any air that could rust it. Indeed, a quite stuffed Resin-Iron-mix and a strong magnet have been &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.sightunseen.com/2012/04/at-the-2012-milan-furniture-fair/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;used in 2012 to create furniture by the name of &amp;quot;Gravity Stools&amp;quot;&lt;/a&gt; or other art pieces like in &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/pxUUTIUOkW0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this video&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2021-02-05T09:47:53.783" LastActivityDate="2021-02-05T09:47:53.783" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15553" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-02-04T14:27:20.267" Score="1" ViewCount="87" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 3D printer built from generic, scrap parts.&#xA;It's controlled by a 2+ years old &lt;code&gt;MKS GEN L&lt;/code&gt; board running Marlin version &lt;code&gt;1.1.x&lt;/code&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to do a complete bed assembly replacement, including:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Heated bed&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Thermistor&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Y-carriage&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All the hardware bits, including the z-endstop are sorted and ready to be installed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;My question is:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Once I replace the assembly, what kind of software / firmware modifications do I need to do to Marlin configuration for my printer to work correctly?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I understand that I need to modify dimensions and offsets but I am unsure what else will I need to change within the codebase before flashing Marlin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23636" LastEditorUserId="23636" LastEditDate="2021-02-05T11:53:56.447" LastActivityDate="2021-02-05T11:53:56.447" Title="What modifications do I need to make to Marlin if I completely replace the heated bed assembly?" Tags="|marlin|heated-bed|firmware|software|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15554" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-02-04T15:53:19.333" Score="5" ViewCount="6683" Body="&lt;p&gt;So, I'm pretty new to 3D Printing, and to quote Spock from &lt;em&gt;Wrath of Khan&lt;/em&gt; I would say &amp;quot;He is intelligent, but not experienced&amp;quot;. Now everything I have been reading about Z-offset seems to talk about a 0.2 mm gap and using a piece of paper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wishing to be accurate, I have tried to use my 0.2 mm feeler gauges and this is too high.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, the thickness of paper depends on the GSM (grams per square metre). A Google search tells me that the average thickness of paper is ~0.1 mm but how can we be accurate with this variation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried using a 0.1 mm feeler gauge and even this seemed too high. Is this because of the lack of give in the metal? Anyway, I have now settled for a Lotto slip (UK Lottery) which has a thickness of 0.1 mm and seems to allow me to set a good offset.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I would welcome someone who can explain the science behind this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25917" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-02-04T22:54:31.647" LastActivityDate="2022-09-19T12:24:31.143" Title="Z-offset: 0.2 mm, 0.1 mm or the thickness of paper?" Tags="|bed-leveling|calibration|z-probe|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15555" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15554" CreationDate="2021-02-04T16:22:48.840" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;They are all generic guidelines. Don't count on them too much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What you need is a reproducible offset to get the same value everywhere in the bed, then you can correct the overall offset via gcode at the beginning of your print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also get an approximate Z-offset value, then print a solid 30x30x5 mm cube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If, starting from the third-fourth layer, you see some over-extrusion, you need to adjust the extrusion multiplier or the E steps calibration and reprint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once the solid cube looks good starting from the third-fourth layer up, then you can tune the Z offset by printing a cube which is only 0.2 mm high (or 0.25 mm, or whatever your first layer height is).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you see over-extrusion, the Z offset is too big. If you see visible gaps between extrusion lines, the Z offset is too small.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If unsure, better get some small remaining gaps rather than overextrusion and excess material.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The idea is that extrusion issues in the first layer can be caused either by the offset or by the multiplier, so you must adjust the multiplier first by looking at the print after about 1 mm height (the first layer issues tend to disappear after some layers). Once you know the extrusion is right, set properly the first layer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a good guide check &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/AndrewEllis93/Print-Tuning-Guide/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Andrew Ellis' guide&lt;/a&gt;: set first the &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/AndrewEllis93/Print-Tuning-Guide/blob/main/articles/extrusion_multiplier.md&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;extrusion multiplier&lt;/a&gt; and then the &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/AndrewEllis93/Print-Tuning-Guide/blob/main/articles/first_layer_squish.md&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;first layer squish&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2338" LastEditorUserId="2338" LastEditDate="2022-09-19T12:24:31.143" LastActivityDate="2022-09-19T12:24:31.143" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15556" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15553" CreationDate="2021-02-04T23:00:50.500" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Dimensions if they differ, maybe endstop offsets and possibly a different thermistor type.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2021-02-04T23:00:50.500" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15557" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15373" CreationDate="2021-02-05T01:34:02.723" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This sounds like a firmware issue to me. I copied and pasted&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;G28 ;Home&#xA;G92 E0 ;Reset Extruder&#xA;G29 ;BLTouch&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Into my start code, and it worked fine.&#xA;I have an Ender 3 V2 and a BLTouch (BL, not 3D.)&#xA;If you haven't updated your firmware, that's definitely why.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the start code I am using (in Ultimaker Cura)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;; Ender 3 Custom Start G-code&#xA;G92 E0 ; Reset Extruder&#xA;G28 ; Home all axes&#xA;G29 ; Auto bed level&#xA;G1 Z2.0 F3000 ; Move Z Axis up little to prevent scratching of Heat Bed&#xA;G1 X0.1 Y20 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move to start position&#xA;G1 X0.1 Y200.0 Z0.3 F1500.0 E15 ; Draw the first line&#xA;G1 X0.4 Y200.0 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move to side a little&#xA;G1 X0.4 Y20 Z0.3 F1500.0 E30 ; Draw the second line&#xA;G92 E0 ; Reset Extruder&#xA;G1 Z2.0 F3000 ; Move Z Axis up little to prevent scratching of Heat Bed&#xA;G1 X5 Y20 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move over to prevent blob squish&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;How are you manually initiating the bed level? G-code command? (If so, which command/commands) or on the printer itself?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;If you haven't already, I suggest you try placing the line &lt;code&gt;G92 E0 ;Reset Extruder&lt;/code&gt; before the line &lt;code&gt;G28 ;Home&lt;/code&gt;. I'm wondering if it is possible that this is somehow interrupting the process.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Are you on stock firmware? If so, I would try using firmware for the BLTouch, from &lt;a href=&quot;https://forums.creality3dofficial.com/download/ender-series/ender-3-v2/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;the manufacturer&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*You can find a guide on how to do a firmware update &lt;a href=&quot;https://all3dp.com/2/ender-3-v2-firmware-update/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here is an external link&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;You shouldn't have to change anything in the configuration if you download the pre-configured BLTouch firmware.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26687" LastEditorUserId="26687" LastEditDate="2021-02-08T14:51:59.193" LastActivityDate="2021-02-08T14:51:59.193" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15558" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15553" CreationDate="2021-02-05T03:53:03.823" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You may wish to PID Autotune the bed as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23909" LastActivityDate="2021-02-05T03:53:03.823" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15559" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-02-05T03:56:39.133" Score="1" ViewCount="620" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been printing with no problems. I have finished the spool of filament and removed the remaining filament from the Bowden tube and hotend. Before loading the new spool of filament, I decided to level the bed using the installed BLTouch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Probe grid 3 x 3. Centre point of the build plate, X:135, Y:130.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Homed the bed (&lt;code&gt;G28&lt;/code&gt;). Leveled the bed (&lt;code&gt;G29&lt;/code&gt;). The first four probe points worked as expected. When the printhead moved to the fifth probe point, the screen read that the printhead was in the expected position (X:130, Y:130). The printhead had only moved about 20 mm, meaning the true position was X:240, Y:130, I had checked this with a ruler. The sixth probe point also moved about 20 mm on the X-axis. The seventh point moved along the Y-axis correctly. The printhead tried to move correctly to the eighth point and promptly crashed into the side of the printer as it was trying to move 130 mm to the right. The screen had X:0 when in reality it was X:230.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried the ABL again. This time I aborted the ABL on the fifth probe point as the previous event had been repeated. Reported position, X:130, Y:130. The true position, X:240, Y:130. I then tried to home the bed (&lt;code&gt;G28&lt;/code&gt;). The printhead moved a short distance to the left (&amp;lt;20 mm) on the X-axis, reported on the screen X:0, and started along the Y-axis. When it had reached Y:0 (true position) it then moved diagonally to where it thought would be the center of the bed, but would have crashed into the side of the printer frame if I had not cut the power.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After re-setting the board, I could home the board either by using &lt;code&gt;G28&lt;/code&gt; or via the screen. I could move the printhead along the X-axis freely, both through Pronterface and the printer screen. If I tried to home the printhead when X&amp;gt;140, it would only move a short distance to the left, set X:0 on the screen, and head down the Y-axis.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have checked for loose connections and everything seems tight. The only difference from when I was last able to print is there is no filament loaded.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anybody any ideas what is wrong?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Printer: Hypercube Evolution (CoreXY)&#xA;Board:   KFB2.0&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23909" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-02-05T07:10:06.410" LastActivityDate="2021-07-18T05:05:00.607" Title="Problems with X axis movement" Tags="|bed-leveling|homing|corexy|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15561" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15567" CreationDate="2021-02-05T06:17:55.813" Score="6" ViewCount="134" Body="&lt;p&gt;Could anyone help me to find out what is the brand name of this 3D printer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XtKMP.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XtKMP.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;3D printer&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found this printer while playing Spider-Man on PS4 in the Lab&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/py2UP.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26689" LastEditorUserId="26689" LastEditDate="2021-02-05T23:48:49.537" LastActivityDate="2021-02-06T09:42:46.120" Title="What is the brand of this 3D printer?" Tags="|desktop-printer|part-identification|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15562" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15550" CreationDate="2021-02-05T12:08:25.823" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;No rust but has magnetic properties? You could try varnishing the iron filled PLA.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12857" LastActivityDate="2021-02-05T12:08:25.823" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15564" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15572" CreationDate="2021-02-05T19:35:38.683" Score="2" ViewCount="1624" Body="&lt;p&gt;I hope someone can poke me in the right direction, I´ve been failing to find a way around this problem and trying for about a week.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My setup is pretty custom, I am using a BTT SKR 1.4 Turbo with TMC2208 driver and a BTT TFT V3 display. At the beginning of this problem I´ve added a second Z-Axis to my printer and made the mistake to declare both axes in Marlin (as I am only using one driver, I should not have to alter Marlin for this, but I found that out too late). At this point, I updated Marlin to take my new steps/mm for the Z-axis, but no matter how often I did, the firmware didn´t seem to change anything. Later (out of pure hopelessness) I used the &lt;code&gt;M502&lt;/code&gt; Command, followed by &lt;code&gt;M500&lt;/code&gt; to save and somehow this made my axis work and set the correct steps/mm out of my firmware (at this point, I already found the mistake in Marlin mentioned above).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Relieved I started my first print... But the extruder motor (bowden setup) stopped turning and I don't know why. Now, I´ve been stuck with this strange behavior for a week:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I freshly boot the printer, the extruder motor spins (correct length and correct direction). I can do this via M-Command, TFT35 and Pronterface (PC-USB direct to the mainboard). Whenever I start a print, the extruder just stops (motor engaged, but not trying to turn, no skipping steps). No matter how long I wait, even in a 2-hour print, the motor doesn´t spin a bit. After the print and if I cancel the print the motor won´t turn again (tried all the ways mentioned before). BUT when I kill the power to the printer and let it reboot I can use the extruder in all the mentioned ways without any problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think this is a software problem, but I can´t find it. Looked through Marlin a few times, adjusted my Start G-code, looked at the existing G-code, I can not find the mistake. I´ll attach a few lines of G-code and my Start G-code (I use Cura 4.8). If someone knows a line in Marlin, I´ll look that up for you - it seems impossible to post the whole firmware somewhere.&#xA;Start G-code:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;G21 ;metric values&#xA;G91 ;relative positioning&#xA;M107 ;start with the fan off&#xA;G28 X0 Y0 ;move X/Y to min endstops&#xA;G28 Z0 ;move Z to min endstops&#xA;M900 K0.22 ; set K-primus-factor&#xA;M117 K0.22 ; display K Value on display&#xA;G92 E0 ;zero the extruded length&#xA;G90 ; absolute positioning&#xA;M82 ;set extruder to absolute mode&#xA;G1 Z1 F500 ;move up slightly&#xA;G1 Y60.0 Z0 E9.0 F500.0;intro line&#xA;G1 Y100.0 E21.5 F500.0 ;continue line&#xA;&#xA;G-Code:&#xA;G1 F600 Z0.3&#xA;G1 F1500 E0&#xA;G1 F1200 X99.215 Y92.699 E0.06147&#xA;G1 X99.708 Y92.391 E0.09734&#xA;G1 X100.377 Y92.083 E0.14279&#xA;G1 X100.743 Y91.958 E0.16666&#xA;G1 X101.484 Y91.803 E0.21337&#xA;G1 X102.187 Y91.748 E0.25689&#xA;G1 X103.552 Y91.72 E0.34114&#xA;G1 X118.764 Y91.72 E1.27986&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If there are any ideas, please tell me. I am completely lost at this point!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: a few mistakes are gone now, formatting and PS.: &amp;quot;blockage of the extruder-motor&amp;quot; after starting a print happens no matter how I start a print (SD TFT/Pronterface/SD Mainboard)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26697" LastEditorUserId="26697" LastEditDate="2021-02-05T19:54:38.560" LastActivityDate="2021-02-07T02:10:39.893" Title="Extruder motor does spin - but not while printing" Tags="|marlin|extruder|skr-v1.4|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15565" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10680" CreationDate="2021-02-05T20:16:21.910" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;try retract before outer wall off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26699" LastActivityDate="2021-02-05T20:16:21.910" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15566" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-02-05T20:38:08.480" Score="1" ViewCount="2319" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an Anycubic Kossel Delta 3D Printer.&#xA;The original Trigorilla motherboard died and I decided to buy one but I only found a Makerboard MKS Gen L 1.0 which is said to be compatible with Trigorilla.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My questions are:&#xA;I have 2 fan ports on Trigorilla and 1 in MKS. I have 2 power supply connectors in Trigorilla (5A, 11A) and I have 1 (12/24V) in MKS Gen L. My power supply (which originally comes with Kossel) has 2 power connectors. (2 + red and 2 - black) How can I use the new MKS Gen L board with Kossel?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My official Trigorilla wiring:&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8SbR7.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8SbR7.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;MKS Gen L 1.0 wiring:&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EHODf.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EHODf.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25946" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-02-05T21:37:48.607" LastActivityDate="2023-07-25T23:05:24.943" Title="Anycubic Kossel Delta switch from Trigorilla to MKS Gen L 1.0" Tags="|marlin|delta|kossel|mks|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15567" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15561" CreationDate="2021-02-05T20:40:51.267" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The printer on picture looks like LulzBot TAZ.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It could be some prototype or a self-made built or just inspired by it (as it is a digital rendition), because there is no sign of any branding on it. There are &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2056402&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;similar builds on Thingiverse&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26170" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2021-02-06T09:42:46.120" LastActivityDate="2021-02-06T09:42:46.120" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15568" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15498" CreationDate="2021-02-05T23:10:46.117" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I replaced the hotend with parts bought from AliExpress.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My printer is now able to reach/maintain temperature and complete prints successfully (no more heating failure).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;BTW:&#xA;It's harder to buy replacement parts for CR-6 (as compared to other Creality printers).&#xA;There were only 2 type of replacement hotend parts for sale on AliExpress at the time I was shopping:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;40 USD for a full assembly (with carriage)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;28 USD for a nozzle kit.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's an Amazon seller and a Canadian 3D printer store that sells individual parts, e.g.: heater block, but the prices are relatively expensive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I bought a full assembly, but a nozzle kit would have worked as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, it looks like they're fixing their production process; my new hotend assembly was built better, even with what appear to be the same parts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not pretty, but at least it's printing - Hopefully this is it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uQDSJ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uQDSJ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;test print&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25591" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-02-07T08:07:39.780" LastActivityDate="2021-02-07T08:07:39.780" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15571" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15646" CreationDate="2021-02-06T17:23:59.977" Score="1" ViewCount="190" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm setting up a replacement Melzi 2.0 board from TRONXY for my i3 clone (a Monoprice Maker Select v2 for those curious), which according to the &lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/wiki/Melzi#Melzi_Version_2.0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;RepRap wiki&lt;/a&gt; has A4982 drivers for all the steppers. I'm attempting to configure Marlin 2.0.x for this printer and this is the last big problem I'm encountering.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem: The Z-axis (or any motors connected to the Z-axis driver) won't budge no matter what I try. All my other steppers work fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I've tried: I've done everything I can to prompt the Z-axis to move, from Gcode commands to homing via the LCD and Pronterface. I've connected my X-axis motor to the Z-axis driver and it won't move either. Sometimes, when I send a command for them to move, they'll make a small noise - like they're getting power - but won't move. I probed the motor connectors at the board and received nothing but a few stray millivolts here and there, very different from the several volts on my Y-axis motor when I did the same thing. Bear in mind, that was just one test moving them from the LCD, and this time they did not make any noise or attempt to move. I have switched pin definitions in the firmware for X/Z ENABLE/STEP/DIR and the Z driver once again appeared to be the culprit, keeping the Z-axis planted even if it was being controlled as if it were the X-axis.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I think the problem could be: To me, this seems like a software problem. I'm configuring Marlin for my first time and I think I messed something up somewhere. Could it be a problem with the trim pots, motor currents, motor enabling, or something else? Outside of that, maybe the driver is just dead?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My Marlin 2.0.x config.h for reference:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;// These are all excerpts from various parts of Configuration.h&#xA;&#xA;#define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT   { 80, 80, 400, 500 }&#xA;&#xA;#define DEFAULT_MAX_FEEDRATE          { 300, 300, 4, 25 }&#xA;&#xA;#define DEFAULT_MAX_ACCELERATION      { 3000, 3000, 100, 10000 }&#xA;&#xA;#define DEFAULT_ACCELERATION          2800    // X, Y, Z and E acceleration for printing moves&#xA;#define DEFAULT_RETRACT_ACCELERATION  2800    // E acceleration for retracts&#xA;#define DEFAULT_TRAVEL_ACCELERATION   2800    // X, Y, Z acceleration for travel (non printing) moves&#xA;&#xA;//#define CLASSIC_JERK  //left at default&#xA;&#xA;// :{ 0:'Low', 1:'High' }&#xA;#define X_ENABLE_ON 0&#xA;#define Y_ENABLE_ON 0&#xA;#define Z_ENABLE_ON 0&#xA;#define E_ENABLE_ON 0 // For all extruders&#xA;&#xA;#define DISABLE_X false&#xA;#define DISABLE_Y false&#xA;#define DISABLE_Z false&#xA;&#xA;#define INVERT_X_DIR false&#xA;#define INVERT_Y_DIR false&#xA;#define INVERT_Z_DIR false&#xA;&#xA;#define X_HOME_DIR -1&#xA;#define Y_HOME_DIR -1&#xA;#define Z_HOME_DIR -1&#xA;&#xA;#define X_MIN_POS 0&#xA;#define Y_MIN_POS 0&#xA;#define Z_MIN_POS 0&#xA;#define X_MAX_POS X_BED_SIZE&#xA;#define Y_MAX_POS Y_BED_SIZE&#xA;#define Z_MAX_POS 150&#xA;&#xA;#define MIN_SOFTWARE_ENDSTOPS&#xA;#if ENABLED(MIN_SOFTWARE_ENDSTOPS)&#xA;  #define MIN_SOFTWARE_ENDSTOP_X&#xA;  #define MIN_SOFTWARE_ENDSTOP_Y&#xA;  //#define MIN_SOFTWARE_ENDSTOP_Z    //disabled until the driver works correctly&#xA;#endif&#xA;&#xA;#define MAX_SOFTWARE_ENDSTOPS&#xA;#if ENABLED(MAX_SOFTWARE_ENDSTOPS)&#xA;  #define MAX_SOFTWARE_ENDSTOP_X&#xA;  #define MAX_SOFTWARE_ENDSTOP_Y&#xA;  //#define MAX_SOFTWARE_ENDSTOP_Z&#xA;#endif&#xA;&#xA;//#define Z_SAFE_HOMING&#xA;&#xA;#if ENABLED(Z_SAFE_HOMING)&#xA;  #define Z_SAFE_HOMING_X_POINT X_CENTER  // X point for Z homing&#xA;  #define Z_SAFE_HOMING_Y_POINT Y_CENTER  // Y point for Z homing&#xA;#endif&#xA;&#xA;// Homing speeds (mm/min)&#xA;#define HOMING_FEEDRATE_XY (50*50) //changed from 3000 to 2500&#xA;#define HOMING_FEEDRATE_Z  (4*60)&#xA;&#xA;// Validate that endstops are triggered on homing moves&#xA;#define VALIDATE_HOMING_ENDSTOPS&#xA;&#xA;// Sorry if that was a bit much, I tried to include all the settings that could &#xA;// potentially have an effect on the Z motion.&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I genuinely have no idea where to even look to solve this problem, so any guidance or advice would be hugely appreciated!! Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My conclusion is that the driver chip itself is dead and replacing it ought to fix the problem. If this works, I will post an answer to this question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26670" LastEditorUserId="26670" LastEditDate="2021-02-08T22:55:32.960" LastActivityDate="2021-02-22T18:57:02.947" Title="Z-Axis on i3 clone won't move at all, Melzi A4982 driver problem" Tags="|marlin|z-axis|stepper-driver|melzi|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15572" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15564" CreationDate="2021-02-07T02:10:39.893" Score="2" Body="&lt;h1&gt;Extruder stops to spin&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem you described seem to be reported elsewhere for TMC in relation to stealthChop mode (unsure, see below) and linear advance. For details look at this comment in &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/issues/17944#issuecomment-626392036&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Extruder stops during print (Bugfix-2.0.x) #17944&lt;/a&gt;. An advice from there is to supplement the G-code with (my interpretation):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;M569 S0 E ; disable stealthChop for extruder (use spreadCycle)&#xA;M900 K0   ; disable linear advance&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is also another discussion &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/KevinOConnor/klipper/issues/1774&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;TMC2208 extruder driver shuts itself off in spreadcycle mode with pressure advance enabled #1774&lt;/a&gt; for Klipper. Above summary is just a result of my quick look through, I suggest to re-read these articles with more insight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also I propose to do following to doublecheck:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;execute &lt;code&gt;M503&lt;/code&gt; (without parameters) before and after print, compare reports (especially: &lt;code&gt;M92&lt;/code&gt;, &lt;code&gt;M203&lt;/code&gt;, &lt;code&gt;M204&lt;/code&gt;)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;verify &lt;code&gt;EXTRUDE_MINTEMP&lt;/code&gt; parameter in &lt;em&gt;Configuration.h&lt;/em&gt; (I am not sure how does it behave during the print)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I also saw the remedy: &lt;em&gt;&amp;quot;Then I changed the extruder stepper motor wires and the problem is now fixed&amp;quot;&lt;/em&gt;, but it is the edge case.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Extrusion mode&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I personally prefer to use extrusion in relative mode, because it allows to manipulate G-code or restart the print from any line. You would need to put &lt;code&gt;M83&lt;/code&gt; in starting G-code instead of current &lt;code&gt;M82&lt;/code&gt;, together with enabling Cura setting (Special Modes &amp;gt; Relative Extrusion). I am not sure what happens currently with your filament between in your file's:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;  M82 ;set extruder to absolute mode&#xA;  G1 Y60.0 Z0 E9.0 F500.0;intro line&#xA;  G1 Y100.0 E21.5 F500.0 ;continue line&#xA;  ...&#xA;  G1 F1500 E0&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For me it looks like it's retreating 21 mm of filament just at the start of print? So it cannot really print for several consecutive G-code lines, does it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Marlin settings vs EEPROM&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When updating settings in Marlin like steps/mm you should be aware, that values stored in EEPROM take precedence. Reinstalling firmware will not clear the EEPROM settings. If you want to make persistent change, save to EEPROM and alter the firmware config, to have these values secured for future as &amp;quot;defaults&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26170" LastActivityDate="2021-02-07T02:10:39.893" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15574" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15580" CreationDate="2021-02-07T08:11:23.970" Score="1" ViewCount="1527" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since I have lots of PETG, I ran tuning to 230 °C (average temp for my filaments).&#xA;What is it good for, in terms of temperature ranges?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the same printer configuration, and just different filaments, will I need to run it again and again?&#xA;Let's assume that I'll be printing between 200 °C and 240 °C.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SOVjm.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SOVjm.png&quot; alt=&quot;marlin pid via octoprint&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25591" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-02-07T19:46:51.687" LastActivityDate="2021-02-08T09:03:34.773" Title="PID tuning and different filament temperatures" Tags="|calibration|pid|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15575" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15574" CreationDate="2021-02-07T15:51:52.977" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's not a straight answer, but you don't have to run PID tuning every time you decide to print with different temperature. (Until you change something in a hardware near or related to the hotend.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can tune PID for different temperatures and grab necessary values, for example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;M303 C16 D1 E0 S190&#xA;22:14:31.872 &amp;gt; PID Autotune finished! Put the last Kp, Ki and Kd constants from below into Configuration.h&#xA;22:14:31.886 &amp;gt; #define DEFAULT_Kp 30.87&#xA;22:14:31.886 &amp;gt; #define DEFAULT_Ki 3.06&#xA;22:14:31.886 &amp;gt; #define DEFAULT_Kd 77.75&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and then store respective G-code commands (like &lt;code&gt;M301 P30.87 I3.06 D77.75&lt;/code&gt;) as few different &amp;quot;PID profiles&amp;quot; as new entries in &lt;em&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;/q/7676/&quot;&gt;custom menu for Marlin&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/em&gt; or &lt;em&gt;menu.cfg for Klipper&lt;/em&gt; for quick switching.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26170" LastActivityDate="2021-02-07T15:51:52.977" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15576" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15579" CreationDate="2021-02-07T17:30:09.737" Score="2" ViewCount="2603" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have upgraded my ER-20 with a Bondtech dual gear feeder.&#xA;It is not or hardly possible to load/unload filament manually with this feeder, so some .gcode is needed to do it.&#xA;I wanted to implement something similar to the atomic cleaning method for unloading: &lt;a href=&quot;https://ultimakernasupport.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/articles/115004187066-Atomic-Cleaning-Method&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://ultimakernasupport.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/articles/115004187066-Atomic-Cleaning-Method&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is my current &lt;code&gt;.gcode&lt;/code&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;G21 ; Metric values&#xA;G90 ; Absolute positioning&#xA;M82 ; Extruder absolute mode&#xA;G28 ; Auto home&#xA;M420 S1&#xA;G1 X100 Y100 Z100 F1000&#xA;; M92 E415 ; 415 steps/mm&#xA;M302 S105 ; Allow extrusion above 105C&#xA;M109 S218 ; Heat hotend to 218C&#xA;M400&#xA;G92 E0 ; Reset extruder positioning&#xA;M104 S160 ; Start the cool down&#xA;M117 Extrude prime blob&#xA;G1 E10 F100 ; Extrude a short before unload to avoid blob forming&#xA;M109 S160 ; Wait for 160C&#xA;M104 S110&#xA;G92 E0&#xA;G1 E0.2 F100 ; Pressurize the hotend&#xA;M117 Pressurize hotend&#xA;M109 S110 ; Heat hotend to 110C&#xA;G92 E0 ; Reset extruder positioning&#xA;M117 Pull out slow&#xA;G1 E-3 F200 ; Pull back a bit, slow&#xA;M117 Pull out fast&#xA;G1 E-430 F2000 ; Pull back 43cm with 2000mm/min&#xA;G92 E0 ; Reset extruder positioning&#xA;M400 ; Wait for command finish&#xA;M117 Remove the filament now&#xA;; M400 ; Wait for command finish&#xA;M302 S170 ; Allow extrusion above 170C&#xA;M104 S0&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It doesn't work:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the auto bed leveling is always done, I don't know how to turn it off&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;when I see that the &amp;quot;Extrude a short before unload to avoid blob forming&amp;quot; event is happening, I also see the &amp;quot;Pull out fast&amp;quot; message on the display and the &amp;quot;print&amp;quot; process ends&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could anyone take a look at this code please? Or &lt;strong&gt;is there any &lt;code&gt;.gcode&lt;/code&gt; validator for Marlin somewhere&lt;/strong&gt;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What I intend to do with this code:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;heat up the hotend to 218 °C&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;extrude some material while a cool down to 160 °C is already started&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;when temp 160 °C is reached, start a cool-down process to 110 °C and push a little material to the feeder (pressurize)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;when 110 °C is reached pull out some material from the hotend slow (maybe the feeder won't be enough strong to do it, but I have never reached this point to check)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;then pull out the filament from the Bowden and feeder fast&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26731" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-02-07T18:36:36.847" LastActivityDate="2021-02-08T18:45:34.940" Title="Marlin firmware: unload filament with G-code" Tags="|marlin|extruder|g-code|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15577" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15578" CreationDate="2021-02-07T20:16:29.460" Score="1" ViewCount="1018" Body="&lt;p&gt;I manage four 3D Printers for my college's robotics team. They are used pretty constantly throughout the school year; that is, they are used more as manufacturing printers than hobbyist printers. The environment they are in is less than ideal: The outdoor climate is typically cold and has low humidity, and the room they are in has fine dust particles that are less than 80 microns diameter and have electrostatic properties. The room's temperature also fluctuates week to week. As such, static electricity is fairly common in that room.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What effects does static electricity have on our 3D printers? I have had numerous problems recently with a motherboard with resistors that failed and another printer with an unknown issue that we suspect also has to do with the motherboard. Could the static electricity be causing these or other issues, or affecting the quality of our printed parts?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We use ZylTech filament, and print using a Creality Ender 3 Pro, CR-10S Pro, Ender 5 Plus, and a FlashForge Creator Pro. The dust particles mimic &amp;quot;regolith&amp;quot;, or lunar soil, that comes from one of our team's test facilities.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25105" LastActivityDate="2021-02-08T15:18:13.897" Title="Effects of static on 3D printers &amp; print quality" Tags="|print-quality|electronics|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15578" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15577" CreationDate="2021-02-07T21:23:20.930" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Static electricity is detrimental to nearly all electronic devices. A stray zap from touching the frame of your printer could migrate to the controller boards, terminating normal operation. If you wish to protect the printers from static electricity, connect the frame to a confirmed electrical ground. The power supply may be grounded via the electrical cord, but you'd want to ensure that the entire structure shares that ground. Additionally, provide a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.glinkster.com/how-to-use-anti-static-wrist-strap/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;grounding strap&lt;/a&gt; to which an operator would connect prior to using the machine.&#xA;Image below courtesy of linked site.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4DSQE.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4DSQE.png&quot; alt=&quot;anti-static grounding strap&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The more unfortunate aspect of your description is the issue of particulates in the air. Moving parts will be subject to excessive wear and your printer has plenty of moving parts. The stepper motors may &amp;quot;ingest&amp;quot; particles and the fans on the power supply will certainly pull in abrasive dust. The rails and bearings are going to be collecting as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you wish to ensure a longer lifespan for the printer, a filtered enclosure with an overpressure environment is going to be needed. This presumes that one desires to provide cooling air to the printer and power supply. The box around the printer would have to be fed by a fan which is protected by a filter capable of preventing the dust you describe from entering.  One could create a box around the printer without fans and another around the power supply with fans and filters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One could use the reverse concept, that is, build a box from filters and have a fan suck the air into the box, into the fan and back out into the environment. This would provide for a greater surface area of filter material, reducing the frequency of filter changes. In the first example, the box is created from a solid material and the fan forces air for cooling, into the box, as dust-free as the filters will allow. In the reverse method, the box is created from filters and the fan is used to move air from the box to the outside, pulling clean, cool air into the enclosure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It sounds like a tough place to be a 3D printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastEditorUserId="854" LastEditDate="2021-02-08T08:38:31.043" LastActivityDate="2021-02-08T08:38:31.043" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15579" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15576" CreationDate="2021-02-08T06:33:55.780" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are three things to fix and one suggestion:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Change follwing lines of &lt;a href=&quot;https://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M109.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;code&gt;M109&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/a&gt;, using parameter &lt;code&gt;R&lt;/code&gt; instead of &lt;code&gt;S&lt;/code&gt;, because the latter is not waiting to cool down:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;M109 R160 ; Wait for 160C&#xA;...&#xA;M109 R110 ; Heat hotend to 110C&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The behavior of &lt;code&gt;M420&lt;/code&gt; will depend on type of bed leveling, saved mesh, etc. It is off topic to troubleshoot this. The printer operates 10 cm above the surface for this operation. &lt;code&gt;G28&lt;/code&gt; disables bed leveling. Why do you need to re-enable it? Just remove this line:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;; M420 S1 - remove (or comment out)&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Redefine maximum extrusion length in &lt;em&gt;Configuration.h&lt;/em&gt; to allow for scripted long pull (&lt;code&gt;G1 E-430&lt;/code&gt;), for example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#define EXTRUDE_MAXLENGTH 450&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Suggestion:&lt;/em&gt; Use relative mode for extrusion (&lt;code&gt;M83&lt;/code&gt;) instead of absolute positioning (&lt;code&gt;M82&lt;/code&gt;). It will simplify your code a lot. You just want to express the distance in &lt;code&gt;E&lt;/code&gt; parameter. Then you will not have to reset position with &lt;code&gt;G92 E0&lt;/code&gt; every now and then (do it just once on the start). (&lt;em&gt;I use this &lt;a href=&quot;/a/15572/26170&quot;&gt;Extrusion mode&lt;/a&gt; also for slicing becuase it makes easier to re-start a print in case of failure&lt;/em&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26170" LastEditorUserId="26170" LastEditDate="2021-02-08T18:45:34.940" LastActivityDate="2021-02-08T18:45:34.940" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15580" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15574" CreationDate="2021-02-08T09:03:34.773" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;PID tuning can be performed multiple times and the results saved for future use, since the question is about &amp;quot;what are the usable ranges for PID tuning&amp;quot;, based on my experience&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a slightly suboptimal tuning will not make the temperature oscillate more than 2-3 degrees, which is more than enough for most traditional filaments&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;if you have a 30-40 °C temperature range you can likely keep a tuning in the middle and be done with it&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;an accurate tuning is needed if you run the hot end at its maximum rated temperature: mine was rated 250 °C and without a good PID tuning the temperature was overshooting by 2-3 degrees, which was enough to trigger a over-temperature safety shutdown. Using the printer at 245 °C would have resulted in no issues even with sub-optimal PID tuning.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, people with high temperature hot ends (up to 270-300 °C or more) will need a tuning for the usual range (200-240 °C) and one for the higher temperature range to obtain better prints.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2338" LastActivityDate="2021-02-08T09:03:34.773" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15581" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15577" CreationDate="2021-02-08T15:02:53.040" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Static electricity does not affect the printing process but it can destroy or disrupt the electronics of the system. The dry air environment is really good for the printing process because keeping moisture out of the filament is one of the most important concerns for a good quality print. Dust is the other. If you can find a solution where the filament is drawn directly from the dry box; that would be best. (I am assuming that you have a dry box ;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One problem that can occur in especially dry environments is static build-up during printing. A 3D printer can become a mini Van de Graaff generator with static being generated on the spool, being transferred to the nozzle. Normally this is a very rare problem but it sounds like your environment is very dry. You should try earthing the nozzle. Determine a spot on the cold side of the hot end assembly onto which you can connect a wire to earth, and ensure that it is connected via a very large ohmage resistor (100Mohm). This should keep static away from the stepper which should keep it away from the controller.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12857" LastActivityDate="2021-02-08T15:02:53.040" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15582" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15577" CreationDate="2021-02-08T15:18:13.897" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Regolith is one of the &lt;em&gt;worst&lt;/em&gt; stuff known to man that could accumulate on electronics and moving parts. NASA replicated Regolith and has a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.nasa.gov/sites/default/files/atoms/files/nasa_tp_2006_214605.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;manual&lt;/a&gt;. Researchers studied &lt;a href=&quot;https://link.springer.com/article/10.1007/s12217-019-9674-5&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Regolith as a 3D print material&lt;/a&gt; - and found it can be used. We even have the formula to make &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lunarcrete&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Concrete from it by adding water and refined regolith or even dry refined regolith.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, we understand &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.researchgate.net/publication/23872637_Lunar_sample_electrical_properties&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;how Regolth behaves electrically.&lt;/a&gt; It's not a good conductor in the dry state but at least a conductor. However, just a little water rapidly changes that and makes it a rather good conductor! Tiny amounts rapidly increase the conductivity, making it very dangerous to electronics in combination with dew - which happens in low temperatures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Dust on bearings gunks them up and then starts to grind away the rails.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Dust on filament gets pulled into the hotend and can create clogs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, it's rather clear that &lt;strong&gt;we don't want this regolith-dust on our printers.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Danger mitigation&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You immediately need to take measures to prevent dust from accumulating on the electronics and secondary on moving parts!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If possible, housing the electronics in a dust-sealed box would be preferential, but&#xA;housing the printers as a whole in an enclosure might mitigate most of the trouble for the start.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The most simple enclosure that would allow for such would be a simple large wood box, provided that the door contains a seal. For fire protection and to reduce the risk of one spot of the housing getting too high, the inside air should be constantly mixed, best by some sort of permanent running large fan. For further protection, the setup needs to be vented at least when the internal temperature gets too high, allowing to use of the heat of the printers to stabilize the internal temperature - and best even log it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A venting-trigger temperature should be below 100 °C air temperature, better even 80 °C. But how to reduce the temperature?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The easiest cooling solution is to intake air from the outside, but we need to get the dust out of that. An easy solution would be a HEPA-filter unit. There are permanently running types, that would keep the printer-box(es) under over pressure compared to the atmosphere, keeping the dust from creeping into the box, but that doesn't give us control to heat the chamber if it gets cold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But we could salvage an old printer board for that! Setting up the thermosensor in such a way that it measures air-temperature is easy. Using the bed and/or hotend exit of the board to some sort of heating element with grids at the filtered intake should be doable, evening out the temperature in the printer box to a minimum safe temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastActivityDate="2021-02-08T15:18:13.897" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15583" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15584" CreationDate="2021-02-08T17:07:48.427" Score="3" ViewCount="6403" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently purchased a Creality Ender 3 V2 ~1 month ago, and just yesterday installed a BLTouch. When looking at the motherboard, I noticed my board version is 4.2.2. Isn't the Ender 3 V2 supposed to come with a V 4.2.7 board? Did Creality mistakenly include the wrong board with my printer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did some googling but couldn't find a definitive answer. If anyone can, please let me know. My plan (if there was a mistake) is to email Creality customer service, but if any of you have a better suggestion, I'm all ears.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PS: I purchased this directly from Creality website, not Amazon or any other marketplace. Thanks, all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26687" LastActivityDate="2021-02-08T19:10:44.360" Title="Is Creality Ender 3 V2 Supposed To Come With Board V 4.2.2?" Tags="|creality-ender-3|firmware|stepper-driver|creality|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15584" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15583" CreationDate="2021-02-08T19:10:44.360" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, they are shipping the v2 with the 4.2.2 board.  My understanding is that the 4.2.7 board has a change in the stepper driver pinout but is otherwise the same as 4.2.2.  The change in the pinout allowed them to change the stepper driver package as the stepper driver vendor appears to be changing that spec.  I've used both boards in my V2 with no discernable difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26760" LastActivityDate="2021-02-08T19:10:44.360" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15585" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3350" CreationDate="2021-02-08T21:34:09.393" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;No there is no rule of thumb as far as I know and no, it's not obvious for someone with skills in thermodynamics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know that if you want extreme speeds you need extreme overtemperatures, for example Annex Engineering uses ABS at 290 °C (about 50-60 °C overtemperature) with a Mosquito Magnum (rated at about 40 mm^3/s) to reach 60 mm^3/s:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/tHI9v4wh4aA?start=0&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Still, you need to find the optimal value based on your hotend, your extruder, your nozzle size and target flow rate. You may do static tests as explained here:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/0xRtypDjNvI?start=0&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There cannot be a rule for such a complex behaviour.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, be aware that Annex Engineering uses 23 000 mm/s^2 (not a typo, really 23 thousand) as acceleration, therefore their printing head moves at basically constant speed. Also, they set the slicer with the same speed for inner/outer perimeters, infill, and so on. If you have more common accelerations like 1500-2000 mm/s^2 and different printing speeds for different features, somewhere the filament will be pushed super fast through the nozzle and everything is good, somewhere else it will slow down and it will overcook.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2338" LastActivityDate="2021-02-08T21:34:09.393" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15586" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14360" CreationDate="2021-02-08T22:21:28.153" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Agree with the approach of using the V2 as is. Review some of the YouTube videos on initial setup and calibration.  Identify the type of printing you'll doing and identify where it's coming up short of expectations. That will be the driver of what upgrades you'll want to start with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Upgrades I've done to date:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;BLTouch&#xA;Bed Springs (should have gone with spacers with the BLTouch)&#xA;Borosilicate glass print bed (OEM tempered glass bed was cupped in the middle)&#xA;Bowden tube (Lower friction)&#xA;X-axis belt (original shredded)&#xA;All fans for added reliability&#xA;Filament guide&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Between the calibration and the above updates, I'm consistently printing dimensionally accurate parts.  But your situation may vary as quality and tolerances in economy parts varies.  Highly recommend the V2 though as the out of the box prints were far better than draft quality.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26760" LastActivityDate="2021-02-08T22:21:28.153" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15588" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-02-09T01:57:01.227" Score="2" ViewCount="820" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been getting delaminating and other issues in the middle area of my Anycubic photon printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sometimes the print won't stick to the print bed and sometimes it delaminates like in the images below, but I'm only seeing issues in the middle of the printer. Anything along the edges of the print area prints without issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I've tested the screen, it seems to work. No dead areas.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I've tried multiple different prints (I only have issues in the middle area).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The problem usually is early in the print but the size of the print does not seem to matter.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The print bed does not appear to be warped.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;FEP tensioned using the Tuning method.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ORW7y.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Print on print bed&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ORW7y.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Print on print bed&quot; title=&quot;Print on print bed&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The prints can be seen attracted to the print bed here. The part of it that is facing each other is where there were issues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Gd1OW.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Delamation example&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Gd1OW.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Delamation example&quot; title=&quot;Delamation example&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Delamation example (both prints had the same issues)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/h5rO7.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;CAD image&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/h5rO7.png&quot; alt=&quot;CAD image&quot; title=&quot;CAD image&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Settings used:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Resin:&lt;/strong&gt; Elegoo ABS-Like Grey&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Layer thickness:&lt;/strong&gt; 50 µm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Bottom layers exposure time:&lt;/strong&gt; 100 s&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Number of bottom layers:&lt;/strong&gt; 10&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Normal layer exposure time:&lt;/strong&gt; 11 s&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19914" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2021-02-11T18:01:25.627" LastActivityDate="2021-02-11T18:01:25.627" Title="Delaminating in the middle area of photon printer" Tags="|resin|uv-printer|delamination|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15589" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-02-09T07:23:33.933" Score="1" ViewCount="58" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am trying to get rid of the bottom rough edge of my printed jobs. It is on everything I print. I have adjusted my Initial layer settings but no change. I have the Ender 3 and using the provided Creality Slicer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Picture showing the problem:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JC5Rx.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JC5Rx.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26762" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-02-09T08:38:53.317" LastActivityDate="2021-02-09T08:38:53.317" Title="Bottom rough edge" Tags="|print-quality|creality-ender-3|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15590" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-02-09T09:43:12.287" Score="3" ViewCount="46" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just got my Ender 3 V2 a few days ago. I have started designing a simple local church but the surface of the print is not what I was expecting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main issue is layers not being exactly on top of each other near openings(windows). (Red circles in the attached image). Is this setting related or do I need to change my model?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the blue circle, it is not a nice and flat surface. It happens in this location in every print of the church. You can see it in the background as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can anyone give me some tips on how to improve these issues?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zBMK5.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zBMK5.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26770" LastActivityDate="2021-02-10T18:29:38.693" Title="Layershifting near windows" Tags="|creality-ender-3|layer-shifting|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15592" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15593" CreationDate="2021-02-09T14:35:40.067" Score="2" ViewCount="235" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hello dear Community,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am trying to print my first Box and I have a problem with the skin of the bottom layers.&#xA;After finishing the slicing and while looking into the generated G-code I was wondering why Slic3r increases the E-parameter continuously when 90 % of the lines have the same length and the axis have the same speed. Logically as long as the length of the lines are equal and the speed of the axis is also fixed so the amount of extraction has to be in this case also fix but that is unfortunately not the case.  Therefore as you can see in the Result photo, that the printer prints the skin layer at the beginning in the right way with the right amount of extruded material. At the end of the skin layer, it seemed very bad because of the huge amount of extruded material.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some Infos about my Printer may be interesting for you :&#xA;Nozzle diameter = 2.7 mm&#xA;Type of Filament= granules&#xA;Diameter of filament = 2.5 mm&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please let me know your suggestions and feedbacks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vc9W8.png&quot; alt=&quot;GECODE Part1/Skin Layer&quot; /&gt; &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PMBP3.png&quot; alt=&quot;GCODE Part2/Skin Layer&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26583" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2021-02-17T17:01:13.003" LastActivityDate="2021-02-17T17:01:13.003" Title="Wrong calculation of E-parameter values" Tags="|3d-models|slic3r|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15593" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15592" CreationDate="2021-02-09T15:10:07.297" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The value you see is the &lt;strong&gt;cumulative&lt;/strong&gt; extrusion, in other words the &lt;code&gt;E&lt;/code&gt; value in consecutive G-code commands reflect a position of the filament since you started that print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is normal that it continuously increases in &amp;quot;absolute&amp;quot; mode.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should see, at the beginning of the G-code, also a &lt;code&gt;M82&lt;/code&gt; or &lt;code&gt;G90&lt;/code&gt; command, which means &amp;quot;absolute extrusion&amp;quot;. And you should avoid having &lt;code&gt;M83&lt;/code&gt; or &lt;code&gt;G91&lt;/code&gt; later in G-code, which would change an interpretation of &lt;code&gt;E&lt;/code&gt; values to &amp;quot;relative extrusion&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is more accurate than relative extrusion (which is the mode you are thinking about).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From your print it looks like the printing bed is not properly tuned, probably too far.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, it is difficult to see properly, but it looks like you get bubbles in the second part of the print, which are the reason there is an increase of extrusion: hot air pushes too much filament out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maybe your granules are not properly dry. It is difficult to tell you more, pellet extruders are more difficult to tune than filament extruders.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2338" LastEditorUserId="26170" LastEditDate="2021-02-11T10:09:08.153" LastActivityDate="2021-02-11T10:09:08.153" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15594" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15588" CreationDate="2021-02-09T15:30:19.947" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The print you do is a sealed cup in the position it sits directly on the build plate. As a result, &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/13988/why-is-cupping-bad-in-sla-prints&quot;&gt;there is a column of resin in the cup&lt;/a&gt; as you print and at some point, the weakest spot delaminates, the air gets into the column and drains.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Take the print and either angle it by a few degrees so the hole in the top becomes a vent or add a tiny extra vent-hole.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastActivityDate="2021-02-09T15:30:19.947" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15595" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14360" CreationDate="2021-02-09T15:41:33.933" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;As per my information, you don't need to upgrade your 3D printer but some of the following steps keep in mind to have your Ender 3 print better:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Level the bed.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Set the nozzle height.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Try different Build Plates for different effects.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Keep it on the sweet spot for your bed temperature.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Printer adjustment and maintenance are kept on priority.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26772" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-02-09T19:15:07.793" LastActivityDate="2021-02-09T19:15:07.793" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15596" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-02-09T16:04:55.333" Score="1" ViewCount="52" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know where I can find a list of recommended settings for different types of resin / print objects for Anycubic printers?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I realize that some of the details will need to be tweaked on a case-by-case basis, but having some general starter information (exposure times for first 6 lines + rest of the print, step settings based on type of print, etc) would certainly be better than starting &amp;quot;cold&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems like this information should be gathered somewhere, either for ALL printers, or separate ones for each type of printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26773" LastActivityDate="2021-07-09T19:02:05.153" Title="Standard Settings for AnyCubic Printers?" Tags="|software|resin|sla|hardware|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15597" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15598" CreationDate="2021-02-09T16:45:30.963" Score="4" ViewCount="5854" Body="&lt;p&gt;Repetier-host has a setting to specify the &amp;quot;print area&amp;quot;. That's roughly the size of the bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that the printer head can go out of those bounds, in my case my bed is very undersized compared to the printer frame, but this would also be an issue if you had clips or some obstacles in the bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a similar setting in Cura where I can specify the &amp;quot;print area&amp;quot;/&amp;quot;bed size&amp;quot;/&amp;quot;margins&amp;quot; to be different from the printer width/depth?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Repetier host settings:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mAOAA.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mAOAA.png&quot; alt=&quot;Repetier-host&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14498" LastActivityDate="2021-02-10T23:50:37.483" Title="Ultimaker Cura 4.8 / How to specify bed (Print) Area?" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|heated-bed|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15598" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15597" CreationDate="2021-02-09T17:02:26.507" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The print area settings would be in the Preferences &amp;gt; Printers. Select the particular printer on the left side pane, then click the &amp;quot;Machine Settings&amp;quot; button.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/86dAH.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/86dAH.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will need to set a printing offset &lt;a href=&quot;https://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M206.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;(&lt;code&gt;M206&lt;/code&gt;)&lt;/a&gt; in Marlin: via &lt;strong&gt;Start G-code&lt;/strong&gt; in Cura, or any other suitable way (LCD configuration, configuration files, etc.).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23193" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-02-10T23:50:37.483" LastActivityDate="2021-02-10T23:50:37.483" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15599" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15596" CreationDate="2021-02-09T17:36:06.363" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Times are not dependant on the &lt;em&gt;printer&lt;/em&gt; but the &lt;em&gt;resin&lt;/em&gt;. Please look at the resin's label, which should have recommended settings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastActivityDate="2021-02-09T17:36:06.363" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15600" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15590" CreationDate="2021-02-09T17:43:48.147" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;That's a &lt;strong&gt;retraction&lt;/strong&gt; issue, not layer shift.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your nozzle &lt;em&gt;starts&lt;/em&gt; printing a new line in those areas but doesn't extrude enough plastic at the first moments, resulting in a weak line.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastActivityDate="2021-02-09T17:43:48.147" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15601" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-02-09T18:12:58.257" Score="0" ViewCount="829" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am working on a &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/15576/marlin-firmware-unload-filament-with-g-code&quot;&gt;filament unload script&lt;/a&gt;.&#xA;My current problem is that the script always does an auto bed leveling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have two scripts to test this issue:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;code&gt;LevelBed.gcode&lt;/code&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;G28             ; Auto home&#xA;G29             ; Level bed&#xA;M500            ; Save to EEPROM&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;code&gt;Move.gcode&lt;/code&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;M501            ; Restore from EEPROM (try to eliminate bed leveling)&#xA;G21             ; Metric values&#xA;G90             ; Absolute positioning&#xA;G28             ; Auto home&#xA;M420 S1         ; Enable bed leveling&#xA;G1 X100 Y100 Z100 F1000 ; Move&#xA;M400            ; Finish moves&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;code&gt;Move.gcode&lt;/code&gt; does bed leveling (&lt;code&gt;LevelBed.gcode&lt;/code&gt; was executed before).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How is it possible to do a movement from G-code without doing automatic bed leveling?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My intention with &lt;code&gt;Move.gcode&lt;/code&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do an auto home&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do a move to &lt;code&gt;(100, 100, 100)&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bed leveling happens between the &lt;code&gt;Auto Home&lt;/code&gt; and the &lt;code&gt;Move&lt;/code&gt;. (It probes the bed at 9 points)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think &lt;code&gt;G28&lt;/code&gt; Auto Home is not required for filament load/unload scripts. My donor scripts for this purpose just contained them.&#xA;I made an example script to just rotate the feeder gear and it seems to be working.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;code&gt;ColdExtrude.gcode&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;G21           ; Metric values&#xA;M83           ; Extruder relative mode&#xA;M302 S5       ; Allow extrusion above 5C&#xA;G1 E-10 F200  ; Pull back filament a bit&#xA;M400&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I cannot eliminate doing an Auto Bed Leveling sequence after &lt;code&gt;G28&lt;/code&gt;, but maybe I even won't need to do it :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This question remains relevant. I'll need a good print startup code for the &lt;code&gt;Cura&lt;/code&gt; slicer.&#xA;It should do something like:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Heat the bed&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Auto Home&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Auto Bed Level&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Auto Home again&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lift up the hot-end a bit and heat it up&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Draw a prime line&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am afraid if this problem is not solved, an other Auto Bed Level sequence will be executed between the 2nd Auto Home and the hot-end lift up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have recently noticed that the my load/unload scripts based on &lt;code&gt;ColdExtrude.gcode&lt;/code&gt; are not always working. Sometimes the printer starts Auto Bed Leveling without knowing the origin position and badly hits the X/Y movement limits.&#xA;So I have to do &lt;code&gt;G28&lt;/code&gt; in my filament load/unload scripts, which involves an implicit Auto Bed Leveling sequence, which is time wasting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So my question is still active:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How to do extrusion from &lt;code&gt;.gcode&lt;/code&gt; without implicit execution of an Auto Bed Leveling sequence?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26731" LastEditorUserId="26731" LastEditDate="2021-02-11T22:04:20.530" LastActivityDate="2024-03-03T05:08:00.940" Title="Marlin firmware: move without auto bed leveling" Tags="|marlin|g-code|bed-leveling|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15603" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-02-09T19:51:06.130" Score="2" ViewCount="220" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am trying to control stepper motors for a 3D printer with a RAMPS 1.4 shield connected to an Arduino Mega 2560. I have uploaded Marlin firmware to the board and am currently using Pronterface to test the board's components.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At first, the stepper motors would not move at all when commanded. They would just slightly twitch and them hum, but not rotate. Then, I checked the wiring connections and ensured they were correct, but the problem persisted. Then, I measured the Vref of the stepper drivers, which was 0.79 Volts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Based on my stepper motors, NEMA 17, the maximum Vref I calculated was 1.36 Volts. After adjusting the potentiometer screw the maximum amount, Vref is 1.19 Volts. Now, the motors WILL rotate when given the 0.1 and 1 command in Pronterface, but return to the twitch and whine behavior when given the 10 or 100 command. What is the cause of this?&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/372nN.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/372nN.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26779" LastEditorUserId="26779" LastEditDate="2021-02-12T15:15:08.867" LastActivityDate="2022-11-08T03:07:10.920" Title="Confusing stepper motor behavior" Tags="|ramps-1.4|stepper|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15604" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14381" CreationDate="2021-02-09T21:50:45.700" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just installed a direct drive myself and noticed it was stringing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What fixed it for me was lowering the flow rate. Ultimately the E-steps most likely need to be recalibrated but just turning my flow rate down to 85 % got rid of all the stringing. Basically, I'm over extruding, since my slicer and Octoprint both have options for flow rate modifier I might not even touch the E-steps, and swap between Bowden and direct drive depending on the job.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26780" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2021-02-10T14:56:02.457" LastActivityDate="2021-02-10T14:56:02.457" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15605" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15671" CreationDate="2021-02-09T23:32:32.100" Score="4" ViewCount="2025" Body="&lt;p&gt;I currently use a BLtouch 3.1, which is known to stop operating at about 35-40 °C. In fact, when I preheat the bed at 100 °C close to the probe, I sometimes get issues with the pin not retracting correctly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would like in the future to enclose and heat the printer chamber, therefore I need a probe capable of operating at higher temperature. My target is 100 °C.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As of now, I'm aware of this solution:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://hightemp3d.com/products/remoteht-bed-level-probe-3d-printer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://hightemp3d.com/products/remoteht-bed-level-probe-3d-printer&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This high temperature probe uses a mechanical switch in combination&#xA;with a servo motor to probe the bed. The servo motor is outside the&#xA;enclosure and retracts the probe pin by pulling on a steel string&#xA;inside a spring guide tube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Microswitches are known to work at high temperatures (that's what the link above uses), but usually need a servo or other mechanism to extend/retract them when needed. Servos typically don't operate at such high temperature, not to mention that they are usually not very accurate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I saw a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4138933&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Hall filament sensor&lt;/a&gt; which uses Hall effect sensors &amp;quot;&lt;a href=&quot;https://sensing.honeywell.com/honeywell-sensing-ss39et-ss49e-ss59et-product-sheet-005850-3-en.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;ss49e&lt;/a&gt;&amp;quot; and which could be easily &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?list=PLC-4S0aWJmLgpsTpdV56nfbFBFBC1jijn&amp;amp;v=-UwGZgZvYmw&amp;amp;feature=emb_title&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;modified to be used as bed probe&lt;/a&gt;. Those Hall effect sensors are rated up to 100 °C but at that temperature they have up to 8% shift of the null value and +3/-9% change in sensitivity. The linked project uses two of them in differential mode so the temperature compensation should be much better, but it is not clear how much better. A &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dua.info/topic/21-datchik-diametra-filamenta/?page=2&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;discussion&lt;/a&gt; about it on a Russian forum does not talk about this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there other options operating at 100 °C?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2338" LastEditorUserId="2338" LastEditDate="2021-02-10T11:11:22.090" LastActivityDate="2021-02-17T20:07:50.663" Title="What are my options if I want to install a bed levelling sensor capable of operating at 100 °C?" Tags="|bed-leveling|bltouch|chamber|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15606" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15612" CreationDate="2021-02-09T23:44:54.657" Score="2" ViewCount="3506" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have PLA and PETG filament.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hear that 3D filament absorbs water and causes problems when printing but after printing they can be used with water and they are water proof.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So my question is why is it different after printing/what has changed to make it now waterproof?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Is PETG waterproof or does it absorb water?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Is there a limit on how much water PETG can absorb or will it keep going until it splits and turns to mush?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26782" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-02-10T12:37:06.043" LastActivityDate="2021-02-10T14:42:28.100" Title="How do filament properties change after printing? (In relation to water absorbtion)" Tags="|filament|print-material|water-resistance|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15607" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15606" CreationDate="2021-02-10T00:14:47.977" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Filament that absorbs water prior to printing is subject to boiling temperatures as it passes through the heater block. In extreme cases, steam will be visible and a spitting sound will be heard. The filament will expand as the water exits, causing multiple structural and printing problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once printed, dry filament may absorb water from the atmosphere, but is unlikely to be subject to boiling temperatures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Waterproofing as a general consideration usually means the ability to keep water out, which is possible if the model is sealed and some printing conditions will adhere each layer well enough to the previous one to provide floating-type waterproofing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PETG is hydroscopic, which means it will absorb moisture from the air. When printed properly (layer adhesion), the model can be waterproof.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These terms are independent and should not be used interchangeably.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastActivityDate="2021-02-10T00:14:47.977" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15608" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15597" CreationDate="2021-02-10T02:47:28.787" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am not sure this is the &amp;quot;official&amp;quot; solution for this, but I was able to define the &amp;quot;disallowed areas&amp;quot; in a custom printer definition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I created a json file under C:\Program Files\Ultimaker Cura 4.8.0\resources\definitions for the printer, and added the machine_disallowed_areas section to &amp;quot;overrides&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;    &amp;quot;machine_disallowed_areas&amp;quot;: {&#xA;    &amp;quot;default_value&amp;quot;: [ &#xA;        [ [ -97.5, 90],[97.5,90] , [97.5,80] ,[-97.5,80] ] ,            &#xA;        [ [ -97.5, -57],[97.5,-57] , [97.5,-90] ,[-97.5,-90] ] ,&#xA;        [ [ -97.5, -90], [-49.5, -90], [-49.5,90 ] ,[-97.5, 90] ],&#xA;        [ [ 64.5, 90],  [64.5, -90], [97.5, -90], [97.5,90 ] ]&#xA;        ]&#xA;        }&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14498" LastActivityDate="2021-02-10T02:47:28.787" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15611" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15606" CreationDate="2021-02-10T13:49:07.647" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Let's distinguish first three things:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hygroscopic behavior. The ability of a substance to absorb water. Salt is very Hygroscopic.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Watertight open-shell. A boat is watertight against water from below. But you can pour water into it. Putting a lid on seals such a body somewhat, but the gap allows water to seep in.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Watertight closed-shell. A sphere is water tight against water from all sides. You can not pour water into it, no lid needed.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, hygroscopic behavior of filament has can create a huge hazzle when printing: Waterlogged filament creates lots of problems, like spazzing, steam, foaming and others. This &lt;em&gt;can&lt;/em&gt; result in a watertight designed print being printed in a &lt;em&gt;gappy&lt;/em&gt; fashion or result in lack of strength or many other results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Watertightness of a shell - open or closed - is primarily a result of the design and well fused lines. In my experience, 2 shells can be watertight, 3 shells upwards is almost always watertight. The main problems are with tops, where I experienced that the minimum tops and bottom layers need to be 4, better even 5. But this is dependant on your print quality - and you might need more or less dependant on your settings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Under stress, like in an RC boat hitting into waves, the inter-layer bonds are the ones that would break first, breaking the shell likewise. To strengthen both the shell and ensure water tightness, polymer lacquers like acrylic paint, guitar lacquer or even epoxy resin (2-component epoxy resin is a very common glue) have been used successfully to create much strengthened and polished surfaces in RC projects. But you don't need to go through these steps unless you really want to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After printing, a hygroscopic filament still undergoes the same processes and might undergo strength shifts. Sintered-Nylon for example might become heavier and softer if waterlogged. Such material also can't be frozen, the contained water can destroy the print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a bath-plug, I just would print the item as a &amp;quot;solid&amp;quot; body from TPU - TPU is after all the opposite of Hygroscopic: it's Hydrophobic. The next best &amp;quot;easy&amp;quot; material is ABS (as you can seal the surface using a little acetone vapor and can withstand 80 °C water for some time without deforming), then PLA (it's barely hygroscopic, but does not like hot water), and likewise PETG will do for some time, possibly better with the heat. Unless you put it in a freezer, it will keep the water in the tub long enough to take a bath.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2021-02-10T13:59:44.560" LastActivityDate="2021-02-10T13:59:44.560" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15612" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15606" CreationDate="2021-02-10T14:42:28.100" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The properties of the maternal are not what changes after you print.  It is how you use the material.  PLA and ABS prints aren't usually subject to +100 °C after printing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When PLA absorbs moisture it becomes brittle.  PLA filament will break when trying to print.  Your PLA print may be thick enough so that brittle doesn't cause a problem.  However, this can be a problem if you intend your PLA print to be flexible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main issue with PETG absorbing moisture is the water changing to steam in the extruder.  PETG becomes soft and will distort with force applied at +100 °C; so generally moisture isn't a issue with PETG prints, due to application.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PLA and PETG absorb moisture, but do not dissolve in water.  Usually what a person means by waterproofing is water won't seep through the layers of the material and leak out of a container.  Note: most glass will absorb small amounts of moisture, but are still waterproof.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If one wants a hermetic seal this is a similar issue.  One person printing hermetic prints said thicker layers make it easier to be hermetic.  Thicker layers also tend to make the printer stronger, but can also give less detail in the print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15075" LastActivityDate="2021-02-10T14:42:28.100" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15614" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15686" CreationDate="2021-02-10T20:47:04.303" Score="0" ViewCount="468" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm using Marlin. Recently my Z-probing randomly doesn't work. Sometimes during Z-Homing &lt;strong&gt;it goes up&lt;/strong&gt; instead of going down to sense the Bed! In  Bed Leveling it goes higher and higher every time. It got frustrating so I ignored Bed-leveling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sometimes I get a fine Z-homing but it always &lt;strong&gt;starts printing in the air!!!&lt;/strong&gt; I have no Idea why it happens. All home and axis offsets and setting are fine. I had no problem last time I used my printer.&#xA;Why my printer starts printing &lt;strong&gt;5 mm&lt;/strong&gt; in the air?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13700" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-02-10T20:55:49.157" LastActivityDate="2021-02-18T17:57:13.760" Title="Marlin Z-probe Failure!" Tags="|bed-leveling|z-probe|homing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15615" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-02-10T21:08:57.933" Score="3" ViewCount="154" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am printing a battery compartment cover on my CR-X Pro. Upon removing the cover I see that some of the outer walls are warping. I have tried printing this same piece with and without bed heat, cooling fans, and both via an SD card and OctoPrint. I don't know where else to try and eliminate the problem. The corner of the extended part in the images below did have an adhesion problem but the issue occurs regardless.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Separately if you have any knowledge on why the printer leaves little burs on the print that would be appriciated, I've tried messing with both retraction and z-hopping on that front.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am currently using Cura for any recommendations of slicing settings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KIBXQ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Warped wall close up&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KIBXQ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Warped wall close up&quot; title=&quot;Warped wall close up&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AgFm9.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Warped wall close up other side&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AgFm9.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Warped wall close up other side&quot; title=&quot;Warped wall close up other side&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AFT5M.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Overall battery cover&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AFT5M.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Overall battery cover&quot; title=&quot;Overall battery cover&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26803" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2021-02-11T00:08:44.230" LastActivityDate="2021-02-11T00:08:44.230" Title="Why is this outer wall warping?" Tags="|pla|troubleshooting|creality-cr-10|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15616" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-02-11T06:23:46.643" Score="1" ViewCount="719" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm having a &amp;quot;minor&amp;quot; stringing issue, where I'm only getting stringing in helpers/support and infill area.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Background: Calibrating printer with 1 roll of PLA. Still getting minimal stringing, but mainly, stringing in helpers/support and infill areas. Tried different temps, but didn't seem to affect this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Suspect some kind of slicer optimization settings? I mean, it's logical to not care about how pretty supports &amp;amp; infill look.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would like to understand why this is happening.&#xA;Please point me to the right direction.&#xA;Thanks in advance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Example photo: Outside in: brim, shell/wall, support, brim.&#xA;From &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4512926&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Thingiverse&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hEX6f.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hEX6f.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Photo&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25591" LastActivityDate="2021-03-21T02:24:44.850" Title="Minor stringing issue, only happens in helpers &amp; infill areas" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|stringing|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15617" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-02-11T08:24:50.517" Score="1" ViewCount="6149" Body="&lt;p&gt;Last night I finished printing all the parts for my HeroMe Gen 5 hot end. I decided to just chop off the existing fans and then solder on a JST XH connector to make it easy to change the fans over in the future.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did the part cooling (adjustable) fan first and it was working great. I then did the same for the nozzle/heatsink fan, but when I plugged in the fan it just didn't work. I checked the voltages on the JST connector pins and they were reading 22.8 V. I thought that was odd, because I'm sure when I checked at the board before I installed the fan it was showing 24 V.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tested the part cooling fan again and it now no longer works. I checked it's pins on the JST connector and the board and it to is showing 22.8 V.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I checked both adjustable fan sockets on the board and both are showing 22.8 V when the fan is set to 100 %.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I check the voltage on the fans themselves they're showing 1.5 V between the ground and positive. I didn't read this value when it was working, so I'm sure if this is expected. And unless I have a batch of 6 dodgy fans, I think it must be the printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Without trying to lead the answer as to why, I have a feeling at some point during the nozzle fan install, after I tested the fan was working by putting the wires straight into the fans JST connector, i.e. before I soldered, I may have touched the 24 V ground and positive wires together when the printer was on, but I'm not certain. But wouldn't this have tripped a fuse and then be showing 0 V?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What have I broken or how can I work out what's broken?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please note, I don't understand electronics very well, but I checked the continuity of the PSU input + to the Fan + for the nozzle fan. It shows as 1, which I believe means no connection. If I connect - to -, then it reads 0 which I think means good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I guess I've burnt a connection between the Fan + and the PSU + if I understand that right?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26136" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-02-11T10:14:58.517" LastActivityDate="2021-02-11T10:14:58.517" Title="Ender 3 v2 hot end fans (nozzle and part cooling fan) not working" Tags="|creality-ender-3|electronics|fans|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15618" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15622" CreationDate="2021-02-11T12:41:52.187" Score="2" ViewCount="464" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm quite new to 3D-printing. I need to build a curved piece with a hole pattern and I was wondering whether it was possible to print such a hole pattern accurately, with such a thin (3 mm) thickness of the piece. In the past, when I tried printing thinner pieces with holes, the piece warped and holes were not printed properly. Therefore is there any changes to the model I need to make to improve the quality of the print, or add any supports?&#xA;I am using an Ender 3 Pro, with PLA.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/o2h6A.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/o2h6A.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26812" LastEditorUserId="26812" LastEditDate="2021-02-11T14:17:16.593" LastActivityDate="2021-02-17T13:14:24.147" Title="How to accurately print a thin piece with a hole pattern" Tags="|print-quality|3d-design|support-structures|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15619" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-02-11T13:23:54.200" Score="1" ViewCount="236" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've never built a 3D printer before, but I understand dynamical systems and control theory, and I imagine a lot of the distortion/inaccuracy that happens during the FDM process (especially at high speeds) is due to position inaccuracies because of inertia. For example, a heavy print head moving fast enough might overshoot its position target if the system expects it to stop instantly. Does any existing 3D printer controller software try to measure the mass of the print head/movement assembly and then use that to come up with better movement instructions?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To speculate a bit: This additional accuracy might not be useful with many normal stepper-driven printers because they lack resolution and/or control, but I think in some cases it would. I imagine with enough positional accuracy and acceleration control you could model the print head position with a dynamical system and get extremely precise movement right up to the mechanical limits of the system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Am I wrong that inertia has a large effect? Would this be theoretically impossible for some reason I'm not thinking about?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26814" LastEditorUserId="26814" LastEditDate="2021-02-11T22:03:56.793" LastActivityDate="2021-02-11T22:03:56.793" Title="Do printer controllers take inertia into account when interpreting G-code into movement instructions?" Tags="|print-quality|g-code|stepper-driver|motor|speed|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15620" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15619" CreationDate="2021-02-11T14:07:10.600" Score="0" Body="&lt;h1&gt;Inertia is not what you think it is&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Inertia is technically speaking something that in physics is not what you commonly understand under the term. There is no mysterious &amp;quot;Inertia Force&amp;quot; that slows your actions on a setup. Inertia is not what makes you overshoot a print's endpoint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Inertia is just the principle &lt;em&gt;why&lt;/em&gt; you need to &lt;em&gt;break&lt;/em&gt; (negative acceleration) before you reach the endpoint of travel and how much you need to and &lt;em&gt;how fast you can step on the break&lt;/em&gt; (jerk).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Recap on Newtonian Motion Mechanics&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Inertia is the fact that an item that is under movement and does not get acted upon just does nothing, as Newton's first law prescribes. That your applied force only takes effect on a body over time (the &lt;em&gt;common&lt;/em&gt; thing understood under inertia) follows directly from the description of the 2nd Law of Newtonian Mechanics:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mutationem motus proportionalem esse vi motrici impressae, et fieri secundum&#xA;lineam rectam qua vis illa imprimitur.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The alteration of motion is ever proportional to the motive force impressed; and is&#xA;made in the direction of the right line in which that force is impressed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$$F=\frac{d}{dt} (m\times v)$$&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;strong&gt;F&lt;/strong&gt;orce onto a body is the change over time(&lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$\frac{d}{dt}$&lt;/span&gt;) of &lt;strong&gt;m&lt;/strong&gt;ass and &lt;strong&gt;v&lt;/strong&gt;elocity. In the classics physical case with constant mass, this becomes the much more well known formulation: &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$$F=m\times \frac{d}{dt} v=m\times\dot v=m\times a$$&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, we have an item of known mass and a known initial velocity &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$v_0$&lt;/span&gt;. The speed of the item at any moment is thus &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$$v(t)=v_0-(\frac F m\times t)=v_0-(a\times t)$$&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Momentum&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another thing that is often mingled into the therm inertia is actually the momentum of an item. It follows directly from the newton text: the force is proportional to the change of momentum. &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$$F=\frac{d}{dt}p=\frac{d}{dt}(m\times v)$$&lt;/span&gt;&lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$$p=m\times v$$&lt;/span&gt; Momentum can be best understood as an amount of &amp;quot;energy&amp;quot; (it's not, energy is &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$E_\text{kin}=m\times v^2$&lt;/span&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;The &lt;em&gt;principle of inertia&lt;/em&gt; is looked at in the slicer&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most slicers set a &lt;em&gt;maximum acceleration&lt;/em&gt; for machines and &lt;em&gt;jerk&lt;/em&gt; for machines. These values are decided based on the mass of the printhead: Maximum acceleration times the mass of the printhead is the maximum force. &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jerk_(physics)&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Jerk is the derivate of acceleration over time&lt;/a&gt;, so it flows into motion mechanics back as &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$F(t)=m\times j\times t$&lt;/span&gt;. So choosing the Jerk and Max-acceleration does include information about the mass of the printhead, without expressly stating it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One &lt;em&gt;could&lt;/em&gt; write the code in reverse and decide on a maximum allowable &lt;strong&gt;Force&lt;/strong&gt; and include the mass of the printhead, resulting in automatically calculated settings for the maximum allowable 2nd and 3rd derivate of the position, acceleration and jerk.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Printer control boards just throttle&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Likewise, printer control boards just throttle acceleration and jerk to a value in their firmware. They don't need to know the mass of the printhead if they put maximum values on both, and those account for the behavior wanted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is no accuracy to be gained from doing the calculation the other way around in the firmware: Even knowing the mass and some allowable force would not get you any way closer but spend quite some code on a function that is called for a few static values.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is more influential, the acceleration and jerk settings are very heavily influenced by how your printhead is mounted, not just the mass of the printhead: Do you have a feather mounted on linear rails and moved with a screw? Or do we have a kilo chunk of lead mounted on a cross of 2 mm aluminium rod rails, pulled with a super soft rubber twist?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2021-02-11T19:17:05.827" LastActivityDate="2021-02-11T19:17:05.827" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15621" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15618" CreationDate="2021-02-11T14:15:15.617" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;That depends on the printer, the print material and your experience level (and maybe print orientation, but that depends on the load case), but, the depicted part should be printed very well at a thickness of 3 mm (that is not really &amp;quot;thin&amp;quot;). PLA will be easier than higher temp materials like ABS and PETG, but not impossible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2021-02-11T14:15:15.617" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15622" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15618" CreationDate="2021-02-11T15:50:30.973" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;People like PLA for dimensional accuracy.  It's disadvantage is it becomes brittle, which can be an issue especially with thin prints if the application tends to bend it (applying force).  Working with settings and with a 0.4 mm nozzle, typical for most printers using PLA, you can print walls as thin as 1 mm, but strength may be an issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To prevent warping, you need the PLA to stick to the build surface; something like a PEI tape surface. glue stick, or hair spray.  Slowing down the print speed decreases warping.  With a heated bed, you can print you first layer hotter (e.g. 75 °C) so that the PLA sticks well to the build surface, then use a lower temperature for subsequent layers (e.g. 60-65 °C) so that the PLA is stiffer.  A level bed is also important to prevent warping.  Using a brim also helps prevent warping.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your print orientation is good for the print accuracy of your curved ends, but not as good for keeping a perfect circular shape of your holes.  However, the smaller the holes the better the circular shape as long as they are large enough to print with your printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15075" LastActivityDate="2021-02-11T15:50:30.973" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15623" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15619" CreationDate="2021-02-11T21:41:20.303" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Stepper motors &amp;quot;want&amp;quot; to keep their position as they are told to by the firmware, therefore they do whatever it's needed (accelerate and brake) to follow the orders they received.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The question is: is the firmware telling them to move/accelerate/brake faster/harder than they can? if yes, they won't keep up (because of inertia and much more) so you'll see artefacts. If not, they will follow the orders exactly (well, mostly, but it's not important now) and no distortions will be there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whether they keep up or not is up to you: you are setting their power (the motor current) and you are telling them how fast/hard to move/accelerate/brake. If you push them too much, the motors will try... and fail to keep up. That's why you have max acceleration, speed, jerk in the firmware and in the slicer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additional info: even if the motors keep the position as they are told to, the motors have no knowledge of anything past them: belts, leadscrews, and so on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Imagine the X axis belt (which connects the motor to the printing head) is made of an elastic band: the motors will be where you order them to be, but the inertia of the printing head will stretch the elastic band and the printing head will NOT be where you expect it to be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is again up to you to reduce the max acceleration to a value below what the motors could be able to do, if needed. Motors are often not pushed to their limit also because other factors cause issues before the motors fail.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How to know how much to limit the acceleration and speed? the only way is trying.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2338" LastActivityDate="2021-02-11T21:41:20.303" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15624" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-02-12T00:05:54.710" Score="1" ViewCount="305" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was replacing a stepper driver on my Melzi 2.0 board with a A4988 Pololu module and for some reason, it won't cooperate with Marlin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For reference, I'm using a Melzi 2.0 TRONXY with a ZONESTAR-style 5-button LCD. This LCD may be related to my problem. I'm using a custom configuration of Marlin 2.0.x since I replaced the main board and it's been giving me a lot of problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When testing the printer with an Arduino sketch, the Z-axis moves flawlessly. However, when I uploaded my Marlin configuration, the printer once again refused to move. Upon probing the Step and Direction pins with my oscilloscope, I found what I think is the problem. I was giving step commands from the LCD and from Pronterface when I saw this on the Z-Step pin:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/88fD2.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/88fD2.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;A shot of my oscilloscope showing step pulses ~5 us long&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Apologies for the blurry picture. The timescale is 20 μs/square and the voltage is 1V/square. What I'm supposed to see is a series of discrete 5 V pulses that tell the stepper to move, but what I got was a handful of tiny ~5 μs blips instead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I've taken this to mean is that the pin (digital 3, for those curious) is being set to pulse by the step request, but is being reset by something else. Everything points to the firmware as far as I can tell. Again, I've confirmed that the 1284p, the A4988, and the motor itself all work when programmed correctly with an Arduino sketch. I've also tried swapping the pin definitions for Step and Direction (switched &lt;code&gt;2&lt;/code&gt; and &lt;code&gt;3&lt;/code&gt;), but I had the same problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A possible cause for this I think could be my LCD: It requires the user to define an analog pin for reading the buttons (a quirk of the LCD design). In my pins_MELZI_TRONXY.h and pins_SANGUINOLOLU_11.h files, Marlin defaults to using &lt;code&gt;#define ADC_KEYPAD_PIN  1&lt;/code&gt; (analog pin 1) with the &lt;code&gt;ZONESTAR_LCD&lt;/code&gt; selected. On the 1284p, pin 3 (the Z-Step pin) is also listed as &lt;code&gt;AIN1&lt;/code&gt;. On the &lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/mediawiki/images/6/6f/Melzi-pcb.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;PCB layout&lt;/a&gt; for the Melzi 2.0, this pin isn't connected to the 10-pin LCD header. The pin the LCD is actually using is the &lt;code&gt;A1&lt;/code&gt; header pin, which goes to &lt;code&gt;PA1&lt;/code&gt;/&lt;code&gt;ADC1&lt;/code&gt; on the 1284p.  But perhaps this definition has caused some confusion in the firmware?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To be clear, the relevant parts of my firmware look like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#define ADC_KEYPAD_PIN                     1&#xA;        //from pins_SANGUINOLOLU_11.h, which is - as far as I know - the only place this is defined.&#xA;&#xA;#define LCD_PINS_RS                           28 //RS           28&#xA;#define LCD_PINS_ENABLE                       29 //EN           29&#xA;#define LCD_PINS_D4                           10 //D4 -&amp;gt; RX1 -&amp;gt; 10      &#xA;#define LCD_PINS_D5                           11 //D5 -&amp;gt; TX1 -&amp;gt; 11     &#xA;#define LCD_PINS_D6                           16 //D6 -&amp;gt; SCL -&amp;gt; 16&#xA;#define LCD_PINS_D7                           17 //D7 -&amp;gt; SDA -&amp;gt; 17&#xA;        //the rest of the LCD pin definitions from pins_MELZI_TRONXY.h&#xA;&#xA;#define Z_STEP_PIN                             3 &#xA;#define Z_DIR_PIN                              2&#xA;        //my Z-stepper settings from pins_SANGUINOLOLU_11.h, which I'm pretty sure is normal for all Melzi boards&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If anyone can provide any insight into this, it would be hugely appreciated! I'm very new to 3D printer configuration and repair, so I'll gladly take any help you can provide!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26670" LastEditorUserId="26670" LastEditDate="2021-02-13T03:41:55.837" LastActivityDate="2021-03-16T03:08:05.853" Title="Z-step pulses too short (Marlin 2.0.x)" Tags="|marlin|z-axis|stepper-driver|lcd-screen|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15625" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-02-12T00:32:24.487" Score="1" ViewCount="575" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a custom 3D printer with RAMPS 1.4 and Arduino Mega 2560 (clone). I installed Marlin 2.0.7.2 firmware and I tested all the motion and heating parts individually and all of them work fine.&#xA;Also, I activated SDSUPPORT and the printer can read my .gcode files from the SD card. When I try to print a 20 mm calibration cube by using an SD card, starting G-code works fine (printer goes home point) at the time of reading G-code from SD card, LCD goes weird and after 2 seconds printer reboots itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For now I can't print via USB because of distance and cable issues, can you give any suggestion to handle this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26781" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-02-12T05:11:45.307" LastActivityDate="2021-04-09T22:11:42.147" Title="Marlin RAMPS 1.4 reboot problem while printing via SD card" Tags="|marlin|arduino|ramps|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15628" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-02-12T13:45:56.147" Score="2" ViewCount="643" Body="&lt;p&gt;I try to set up the focus of my Logitech C920 in OctoPi. I follow several guides, which all propose to set the command &lt;code&gt;sudo v412-ctl --set-ctrl=focus_auto=0&lt;/code&gt; by SSH'ing OctoPrint.&#xA;I always receive the answer in SSH, that &lt;code&gt;v412-ctl command not found&lt;/code&gt;.&#xA;What's wrong?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26832" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-02-12T14:41:40.970" LastActivityDate="2021-02-12T14:53:52.833" Title="OctoPi command v412-ctl not found" Tags="|octoprint|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15629" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16201" CreationDate="2021-02-12T14:40:17.830" Score="6" ViewCount="4056" Body="&lt;p&gt;Printer configuration and many settings affect heat creep.  Heat creep stopping extrusion doesn't necessarily involve melting the filament too high above the nozzle.  All it takes is making the filament too soft.  The filament may bend and wad up (the importance to avoid gaps in the hot end allowing this).  On direct drives (not Bowden tubes) the filament can get soft so that the teeth on the direct drive cuts a notch in the filament instead of pushing it through the nozzle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[moved to answer]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/97Ay2.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/97Ay2.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fig. 1: Some typical signs of heat creep on the filament of a direct drive.  1) notch in filament where gear spins in soft filament. 2) normal teeth marks in filament. 3) soft filament bending. 4) soft filament bunches in open area. With a Bowden tube, the filament widens at the end.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/V0kqr.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/V0kqr.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fig. 2.: Another example of heat creep with a direct drive extruder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Note&lt;/strong&gt;: Setting the retraction too high can cause the extruder to jam, but this is not heat creep.  Although, the symptom could be mistaken for heat creep.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Also note&lt;/strong&gt;: Printing materials like PETG too fast can clog the nozzle because the filament doesn't have time to melt.  This is the opposite cause from heat creep.  On some direct drive extruders you can tell the difference in the appearance of the jammed filament moving too fast versus heat creep because the filament is rigid when  moving too fast and tends to jam in the nozzle giving a similar appearance to heat creep in Bowden tubes extruders.  When PETG jams in a direct drive as shown in Figure 3, both raising the temperature of the extruder (more heat to melt the filament) and improving the cooling of the heat sink (drive teeth digging into stiffer filament) &lt;strong&gt;also&lt;/strong&gt; helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JetlE.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JetlE.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fig. 3.: Filament with end expanded in nozzle showing jam from filament moving too fast and not heating enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A defect in the filament can jam in the tube to the hot end, as well as the filament hanging up on the spool or in the path to the hot end.  This can also stop extrusion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course different materials change the characteristics of heat creep, but what are other things affecting heat creep?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is expanded from &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/13328/how-is-heat-creep-characterized&quot;&gt;How is heat creep characterized?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15075" LastEditorUserId="15075" LastEditDate="2022-04-15T16:10:08.330" LastActivityDate="2022-04-15T16:10:08.330" Title="What are ways to avoid heat creep?" Tags="|extrusion|heat|heat-creep|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15630" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15628" CreationDate="2021-02-12T14:53:52.833" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's an &lt;code&gt;l&lt;/code&gt; (ell) not a &lt;code&gt;1&lt;/code&gt; (one). &lt;code&gt;v4l2-ctl&lt;/code&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2021-02-12T14:53:52.833" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15631" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-02-12T16:50:53.320" Score="1" ViewCount="768" Body="&lt;p&gt;I built an i3-style printer (it started a few years ago as an Anet A8 and now I replaced basically everything). I've been printing some stuff that doesn't really need to have a good quality look or dimensional accuracy, but now I decided to print a calibration cube and the results are shown in the figure below.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone have any tips on improving the quality of this print? The height is exactly 20 mm but the width and length are affected by the uneven layers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;About the changes I made to the A8, basically I started with a steel frame but eventually all the electronics and mechanics were replaced to achieve something similar to the 3DSteel V2 from HTA3D.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Yh2d7.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Yh2d7.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25180" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-02-13T15:14:13.807" LastActivityDate="2021-02-13T15:14:13.807" Title="Calibration cube quality" Tags="|print-quality|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15632" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-02-12T19:38:26.443" Score="0" ViewCount="148" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an EcubMaker TOYDIY 4-in-1 3D Printer. When using the FDM Dual Toolhead, it runs into the platform and I have to shut it down to stop it from making saying terrible sounds. I did use the last engraver and it worked just fine, but the single FDM Toolhead did the same thing, only it was to the top of the machine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is happening during the auto home function prior to and when trying to print. The toolhead slides to the Y-axis stepper motor, bumps it, the light on the sensor comes on, then it slides to the left about halfway and begins to ascend. When it reached the top with the single FDM toolhead, it kept trying to go up until I shut the machine down. So I changed it to the dual toolhead and now it goes to the top, backs away, slides to the left some more, and the platform moves into position. The toolhead starts descending and doesn't stop when it runs into the platform, so I must turn it off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is new to me, but after changing to the dual toolhead, it went through the whole cupcake cycle just fine and printed my part fantastically, not this problem started once I tried to print another.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried resetting to defaults, changing the Z-offset to the one on the manual, but it still hits the build platform.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I updated the firmware to 1.2.9 and now it will do auto-home correctly when I set the Z-offset to 0 just to test it. But when I set the Z-offset, using the auto Z-offset, then click save and exit, and try to print, it still runs into the platform.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The end stops do work because when doing the auto-Z-offset function, it probes the platform several times. I thought maybe it could be a setting in the EcubWare slicing software, but the rest of the print does the same thing. I can't get any answers from support, because I think China closes down until the 19th, for the New Year, and I had something I need to print for Valentine's Day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Resolution: I have since returned the printer, but it was a problem with the Y-axis endstop being too far away, by several millimeters. But once I moved it, it wouldn't print more than the first layer, over and over again, until it completed the print. I imagine the problem is the Z-axis carriages might be loose, since so many parts of the printer were not completely put together, or tightened properly. This machine had too many issues for $599.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26840" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-04-07T20:42:06.270" LastActivityDate="2021-04-07T20:42:06.270" Title="EcubMaker TOYDIY 4-in-1 3D Printer Toolhead Hits Platform" Tags="|troubleshooting|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15636" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15605" CreationDate="2021-02-13T13:07:57.010" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Have you considered using or adapting Prusa’s P.I.N.D.A. V2 or SuperPINDA? Seems that within some bounds they’ve solved the temperature compensation issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The older P.I.N.D.A. V1 sensor seems to be temperature-sensitive. See more information in &lt;a href=&quot;https://help.prusa3d.com/en/article/p-i-n-d-a-superpinda-sensor-testing_2091&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;P.I.N.D.A./SuperPINDA Sensor testing&lt;/a&gt; article of Pruse Knowledge Base.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20406" LastEditorUserId="26170" LastEditDate="2021-02-13T15:28:34.940" LastActivityDate="2021-02-13T15:28:34.940" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15637" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15638" CreationDate="2021-02-13T14:04:25.790" Score="1" ViewCount="1051" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've put together a flashlight mount for a camera coldshoe in OpenSCAD.  I originally modeled it in FreeCAD and it was easy to round the edges of the clamp with a fillet and that makes it a little easier to get the light in and out of the mount.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure how to do it in OpenSCAD.  Naively, I'm sure I could calculate where on my semicircle I would need to add some cylinders in order to round the sharp corners, but it seems like there'd be something a little easier than that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Am I missing something?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's the &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/tncbbthositg/cold_shoe_light_mount/blob/795489c90f412502a2545536e906ad8971cfd691/cold_shoe_light_mount.scad&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;coldshoe light mount SCAD file&lt;/a&gt; and this is what it looks like:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/StF93.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/StF93.png&quot; alt=&quot;coldshoe light mount&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14900" LastActivityDate="2021-02-19T19:03:34.477" Title="Is there an easy way to add rounded edges to semicircle in OpenSCAD?" Tags="|openscad|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15638" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15637" CreationDate="2021-02-13T16:39:53.277" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm far from a wizard with OpenSCAD, but enjoy using the program, learning something new every time. In your case, it's likely that you can use the &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/Irev-Dev/Round-Anything&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;roundanything library&lt;/a&gt; to accomplish your objective.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The library will present various implementations in the samples, making it an exercise for the reader to determine which module calls will present the solution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The image below shows a part which has had the radii applied in a manner similar to your image:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DWbgd.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DWbgd.png&quot; alt=&quot;round anything implementation&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastActivityDate="2021-02-13T16:39:53.277" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15639" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15637" CreationDate="2021-02-13T17:04:13.830" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're modeling as a 2D object and extruding with &lt;code&gt;linear_extrude&lt;/code&gt;, you can use the &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikibooks.org/wiki/OpenSCAD_User_Manual/Transformations#offset&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;code&gt;offset&lt;/code&gt; tranformation&lt;/a&gt; with positive &lt;code&gt;r&lt;/code&gt; on the (initially undersized) 2D object to smooth corners.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2021-02-13T17:04:13.830" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15640" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-02-13T20:39:57.890" Score="2" ViewCount="523" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an Ender 3 Pro that has yet to be used, since after initial out of the box assembly it doesn't seem to get power. I plug it in, flip the switch, and nothing. No fan in the PSU, no screen flicker, no sign of life in any way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Double checked all the power cables going from PSU to motor, screen, extruder, etc. and they are all secured. The XT60 cable is firmly connected.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I checked the outlet, but it powers my desktop PSU fine. I checked the cord, but it works for other PSUs. I assumed it was the power supply, but replacing it with a new one gives me the same issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What other steps can I take to diagnose/fix this issue??&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26854" LastActivityDate="2021-02-13T20:39:57.890" Title="Ender 3 Pro build not getting power after initial setup" Tags="|creality-ender-3|power-supply|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15641" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15648" CreationDate="2021-02-13T21:09:29.593" Score="4" ViewCount="2993" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am very comfortable with using PrusaSlicer and having a hard time adapting Cura.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any downloadable well-tested PrusaSlicer profile for some of the Creality printers?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25720" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-02-13T21:45:58.907" LastActivityDate="2021-02-15T12:08:11.413" Title="Is there a well-tested Ender 3 printer profile for PrusaSlicer available for download?" Tags="|creality-ender-3|slic3r|prusaslicer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15644" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-02-14T01:27:43.870" Score="4" ViewCount="807" Body="&lt;p&gt;I replaced my CR-10 motherboard with no problems and ran fine for a few weeks, then decided to add a BLTouch. BLTouch was enabled from the &lt;code&gt;config.h&lt;/code&gt; during compile.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had heating issues at first but eventually figured out I had the thermistors plugs swapped on the motherboard. In the past, I never used start and stop G-codes because I only printed printer upgrades off of Thingiverse while learning to print. My prints weren't starting until I learned more about G-codes and added &lt;code&gt;G29&lt;/code&gt; and &lt;code&gt;G29&lt;/code&gt; to my Cura start codes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried a piece that I've printed before because I knew it worked ok. I preheated the bed and nozzle first, then started the print. The &lt;code&gt;G28&lt;/code&gt; initiates and homes, then the &lt;code&gt;G29&lt;/code&gt; does the 9 point bed leveling, then just sits there and does nothing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;BLTouch behavior during the process&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;BLTouch moves to &amp;quot;home&amp;quot; from center, with probe up and red light&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;With the light still remaining red, BLTouch goes back to the center&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The BLTouch light turns blue once at the center, and drops the probe and lowers until probe touches and the light turns red&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Then raises again and the light turns blue, lowers again until probe touches bed then the light turns red again&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The light stays red and raises Z axis a little - and stays at center, still red&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The probe stays at center and red &lt;strong&gt;until reaching preheating temps&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;After selecting file&lt;/strong&gt; the probe moves to 9/9 points, with probe raised and blue light (drops probe and lowers until touching and turns red, then raises and turns blue)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Once the &lt;strong&gt;last probe location is checked&lt;/strong&gt;, BLTouch is still red and temperature settings from project file are set and heating starts&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The setpoints of bed and nozzle are reached (&lt;strong&gt;successfully heated&lt;/strong&gt;)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;After heating, the setpoints switch to zero and temps start dropping towards the zero set point (&lt;strong&gt;cooldown&lt;/strong&gt;) and never moves after that and shows status &amp;quot;Stopped&amp;quot;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Pronterface - manual attempts&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I connected through Pronterface so I could see the exact details.&#xA;When I run a &lt;code&gt;G28&lt;/code&gt;, from Pronterface:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It goes to lower corner and is still red&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Returns to the center, probe drops and turns blue&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A few seconds later it drops until touching the bed and turns red&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Raises up again and turns blue, then drops BLTouch again until it touches the bed and turns red&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Then raises up again, but stays red this time&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I get an error in Pronterface &lt;em&gt;&amp;quot;Stop called because of BLTouch error - restart with M999&amp;quot;&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After it levels 9/9 points&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;, Pronterface shows a BLTouch error, the printer display shows print stopped, and the bed and nozzle setpoints had changed to zero. They both had already started cooling. I kept the start code simple just enough to get the print going.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have no idea what the BLTouch error is but just that it caused two temperature settings to go to zero. Any help would be great!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; The 9/9 points I'm referring to is when I run &lt;code&gt;G29&lt;/code&gt; and my config has 3x3 grid option selected so the &lt;code&gt;G29&lt;/code&gt; probes 9 points total with the BLTouch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26847" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2021-02-18T15:11:41.633" LastActivityDate="2023-01-16T14:19:50.217" Title="BLTouch error causing bed and nozzle temp setpoints to change to zero" Tags="|nozzle|bltouch|bed|temperature|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15645" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15652" CreationDate="2021-02-14T01:56:22.100" Score="1" ViewCount="565" Body="&lt;p&gt;Has anyone successfully replaced the inductive Z probe on the Monoprice MP10 (Mini or regular) with a different type, such as BLTouch or IR?&#xA;I find that the stock inductive probe isn't so accurate, and since it's inductive it only works with the aluminum build plate but not with glass or PEI, which I much prefer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18961" LastActivityDate="2021-02-15T08:35:52.823" Title="Replacement Z Probe for MP10" Tags="|z-probe|monoprice-mp-10|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15646" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15571" CreationDate="2021-02-14T02:45:04.583" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've replaced the Z-axis stepper driver with an off-board Pololu-style A4988 driver by soldering leads to pins 2 and 3 on the Melzi board, then connecting those to the driver on a separate board. The Z-axis now moves correctly. When I encountered issues with the step pin (pin 3), I connected it to pin 12 (bed heater) instead, leaving the bed to be heated manually. This has worked so far and the only problems I've encountered were minor issues with electrical noise, which I was able to fix with a shielded cable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26670" LastEditorUserId="26670" LastEditDate="2021-02-22T18:57:02.947" LastActivityDate="2021-02-22T18:57:02.947" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15647" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15624" CreationDate="2021-02-14T02:47:42.570" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;By avoiding pin 3 entirely, the Z-axis steppers have started to move correctly. My bed heater went out a while ago, so I redefined the connections in Marlin to use that pin (pin 12) as the Z-step pin, connecting it to the A4988 accordingly. This has caused no issues other than small noise problems so far. Unfortunately, I can't speak to any potential issues pin 3 may have had to cause this behavior, all I have is this one potential solution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26670" LastActivityDate="2021-02-14T02:47:42.570" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15648" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15641" CreationDate="2021-02-14T17:26:15.160" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Open PrusaSlicer, go to Configuration -&amp;gt; Configuration wizard, then go to page named &amp;quot;Other Vendors&amp;quot;, tick the checkbox next to the name &amp;quot;Creality&amp;quot;, then click &amp;quot;Next&amp;quot; at the bottom right of the window. A page with a handful of Creality printers should appear including Ender 3. Tick the checkbox under Creality Ender 3. Then click &amp;quot;Finish&amp;quot; at the bottom right. The profile should appear in the selection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It imports various print settings (from 0.3 mm to 0.08 mm I believe) as well as some basic material presets. You can import more materials by just going to the &amp;quot;Filaments&amp;quot; page in the Configuration wizard and ticking the desired options.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The profiles are tested by PrusaResearch themselves I believe and I think they are based on other profiles found online with some tweaks and adjustments to better fit to PrusaSlicer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am using PrusaSlicer 2.3.0&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is an image, what it should look like. Your colors might be different, I asume you are using Windows, wheras I am using Linux Mint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rKxY4.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rKxY4.png&quot; alt=&quot;PrusaSlicer Creality printer selection screen&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16997" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-02-15T12:08:11.413" LastActivityDate="2021-02-15T12:08:11.413" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15649" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15653" CreationDate="2021-02-14T19:56:45.323" Score="1" ViewCount="996" Body="&lt;p&gt;A print that is paused with an &lt;code&gt;M0&lt;/code&gt; can be unpaused with &lt;code&gt;M108&lt;/code&gt;.&#xA;That works with my Chiron running Marlin 2.0.7.2.&#xA;However, it also has a display that uses its' own serial protocol to communicate with Marlin. I want that display to be able to unpause my printer when it has encountered &lt;code&gt;M0&lt;/code&gt; in the G-code.&#xA;I tried &lt;code&gt;injectCommands_P(PSTR(&amp;quot;M108\n&amp;quot;));&lt;/code&gt; in the code, but it did not work. Perhaps I should not have a new-line at the end of it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the correct command to do this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;void GcodeSuite::M108() {&#xA;  TERN_(HAS_RESUME_CONTINUE, wait_for_user = false);&#xA;  wait_for_heatup = false;&#xA;}&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Above is the Marlin code for &lt;code&gt;M108&lt;/code&gt;. Would be great if someone could decipher what TERN means.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26869" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-02-14T22:42:33.490" LastActivityDate="2021-02-15T14:47:17.070" Title="How to programmatically resume a paused print in Marlin" Tags="|marlin|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15650" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-02-14T20:45:28.920" Score="0" ViewCount="92" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a DaVinci Mini W that throws a jam error after exactly 5 layers, even if the extruder isn't actually jammed. Is this real jamming, or unethical business practice?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26870" LastActivityDate="2021-02-14T22:53:22.310" Title="XYZ DaVinci Mini W &quot;jamming&quot; after exactly 5 layers" Tags="|xyz-da-vinci-mini-w|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15651" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15650" CreationDate="2021-02-14T22:53:22.310" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Mini W has both a sensor that checks if there is filament, and a second sensor wheel that checks that the filament is actually moving (so it can deduct available filament length on the NFC tag).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the moving sensor is not detecting anything for some time, the printing will stop and the LED will go red. I do not know if that will show up as a &amp;quot;jam error&amp;quot; in XYZware or if this is what you experience, but it is my best guess.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I guess the same would happen if you remove the NFC-tag mid-print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26869" LastActivityDate="2021-02-14T22:53:22.310" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15652" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15645" CreationDate="2021-02-15T08:35:52.823" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;From Thingiverse you can find a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4375246&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;BLTouch mount&lt;/a&gt; for the MP10 (and MP10 mini):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ktq4u.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;MonoPrice MP10 BLTouch mount&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ktq4u.png&quot; alt=&quot;MonoPrice MP10 BLTouch mount&quot; title=&quot;MonoPrice MP10 BLTouch mount&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that in order to use the BLTouch sensor you need a different controller board that supports connecting a BLTouch sensor as the MonoPrice controller board doesn't support connecting a BLTouch sensor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4375246&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;ref.&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A BLTouch adapter for the Monoprice MP10 &amp;amp; MP10 Mini. NOTE: you will need an open source control board to get this to work as the stock firmware on the MP10 line of products does not allow for a BLTouch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2021-02-15T08:35:52.823" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15653" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15649" CreationDate="2021-02-15T14:47:17.070" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The correct Marlin-command to unpause seems to be &lt;code&gt;setUserConfirmed()&lt;/code&gt;. I have tested that it works.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26869" LastActivityDate="2021-02-15T14:47:17.070" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15654" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-02-15T16:54:39.533" Score="1" ViewCount="2986" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a new Photon S that I was able to print twice with so far. I've only been able to print the sample file on the Anycubic web site. When I tried to print my first custom object, it wouldn't read the file. It would just popup a message saying &amp;quot;Failed to open file!&amp;quot; I thought that my file might have a problem with it so I tried to print the sample file that I already printed successfully. Same error.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I read that it only supports 16 GB drives so I tried one and it didn't work. I asked people on the FB page which drives they are using successfully and the SanDisk Cruzer was recommended. I got two 8 GB versions of those. One worked intermittently, the other didn't.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I bought a USB tester to check the voltage and found that the voltage was 4.99 coming from an empty port. When I inserted the drive that worked, it dropped to 4.92. The drive that didn't work dropped to 4.93. I asked a fellow Photon S owner what his reads and it was 5.15 empty and 5.11 with a drive in it. My PC has a voltage of 5.20. All of these voltages are within the range of the USB standard but I think my sub 5 volt value has something to do with the failure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone out there (an EE) know what's really wrong and has an actual solution or can tell me what I should look for? I know that there are a lot of guesses in the community. Stick with max of 16 GB. Try different sticks. Check internal cable (I also inserted the drive directly into the motherboard), etc. Communicating with a USB drive shouldn't be guess work as long as the drive is of good quality. The guy I asked uses a 32 GB stick which is the FAT32 limit for the standard Windows formatter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any help will be greatly appreciated. Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26878" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2021-02-15T18:41:48.490" LastActivityDate="2021-02-15T18:41:48.490" Title="Is there a known fix for when the Photon S has trouble reading from USB flash drives?" Tags="|usb|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15655" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-02-15T19:27:43.737" Score="1" ViewCount="1312" Body="&lt;p&gt;On my Ender 3, it seems that the Y-axis can only move forward 220 mm after which the carriage will hit the tensioner. This seems repeatable so I don't think it's a hardware issue (unless it's expected that the nozzle can reach all the way to the front edge).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm unclear, with this information, how I can center my nozzle properly so that it is 117.5 mm from each edge, and that the corner leveling feature works as expected (by default, configured to be 30 mm from each edge).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26881" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-02-15T19:46:12.223" LastActivityDate="2021-02-15T23:13:16.370" Title="Ender 3 + SKR 1.4 + Marlin 2.0.x bugfix - what bed size/min/max positions should I use?" Tags="|marlin|creality-ender-3|homing|y-axis|skr-v1.4|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15656" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15603" CreationDate="2021-02-15T22:51:40.323" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The described behaviour could happen if, e.g. &lt;code&gt;X_STEP_PIN&lt;/code&gt;, &lt;code&gt;X_DIR_PIN&lt;/code&gt; and &lt;code&gt;X_ENABLE_PIN&lt;/code&gt; are not correctly mapped.&#xA;I guess you will find them in &lt;code&gt;pins_RAMPS_144.h&lt;/code&gt;. Make sure the correct file is used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26869" LastActivityDate="2021-02-15T22:51:40.323" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15657" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15655" CreationDate="2021-02-15T23:13:16.370" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Ender 3 has a printable area of 220x220x250 mm according to the specifications. So, there is nothing wrong. Sometimes heated beds are slightly larger than the actual print area. E.g. 235x235 mm or 310x310 mm. For centering the nozzle to the build plate, you should look into &amp;quot;&lt;a href=&quot;/q/6375&quot;&gt;How to center my prints on the build platform? (Re-calibrate homing offset)&lt;/a&gt;&amp;quot; or &amp;quot;&lt;a href=&quot;/q/6399&quot;&gt;Recalibrating Home-position&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2021-02-15T23:13:16.370" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15658" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-02-15T23:24:48.830" Score="2" ViewCount="472" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Environment:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Printer: Anycubic Chiron,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Firmware: Marlin 2.0.7.2,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Settings: FWRETRACT is not enabled,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Slicer: Cura 4.8.0.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I print using the code below (it is longer, but I do not know where to put attachments), I can see that the extruder-gear is jerking, as if it tries to do tiny retractions between every little movement. Real retractions happens where they should and seems fine.&#xA;If I slow down the printing from &lt;code&gt;F2400&lt;/code&gt; to &lt;code&gt;F600&lt;/code&gt;, it is almost gone.&#xA;I don't say it is a problem, the printer works. I wonder if there are settings that can cause this, if it is as expected or if I can do anything to make my printer work more quietly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://photos.app.goo.gl/UEzskxuABN3UJHxC7&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Short film&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;; example G-code for noisy extruder stepper&#xA;; PLEASE DO NOT RUN ON YOUR PRINTER unless you know what it does. &#xA;M302 P1 ; disable cold extrusion checking&#xA;G0 Z5&#xA;G0 F2400 X214.8 Y177.1&#xA;G1 F600 Z5&#xA;G1 F2400 E0.20522&#xA;G1 X214.866 Y177.134 E0.20647&#xA;G1 X214.934 Y177.161 E0.20890&#xA;G1 X214.923 Y177.189 E0.20990&#xA;G1 X214.912 Y177.217 E0.21090&#xA;G1 X214.907 Y177.229 E0.21133&#xA;G1 X214.813 Y177.456 E0.21927&#xA;G1 X214.793 Y177.480 E0.22031&#xA;G1 X214.540 Y177.791 E0.23364&#xA;G1 X213.982 Y178.218 E0.25701&#xA;G1 X214.155 Y178.986 E0.28319&#xA;G1 X214.757 Y179.315 E0.30601&#xA;G1 X214.962 Y179.542 E0.31618&#xA;G1 X214.990 Y179.574 E0.31760&#xA;G1 X215.109 Y179.775 E0.32537&#xA;G1 X215.124 Y179.801 E0.32637&#xA;G1 X215.140 Y179.827 E0.32738&#xA;G1 X215.105 Y179.848 E0.32874&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26869" LastEditorUserId="26869" LastEditDate="2021-02-16T13:10:41.073" LastActivityDate="2021-02-18T13:31:42.923" Title="Marlin: Why is the extruder stepper jerking?" Tags="|marlin|anycubic-chiron|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15659" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-02-16T07:52:25.040" Score="0" ViewCount="457" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can I mix BIGTREETECH S42B closed loop stepper drivers on the MKS Gen L controller board with other drivers?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are the pins in the same position? Would mixing work?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26585" LastEditorUserId="4922" LastEditDate="2021-04-21T13:22:25.243" LastActivityDate="2024-01-06T21:07:15.853" Title="Mixing (closed loop) stepper drivers on MKS main board" Tags="|stepper-driver|mks|bigtreetech|closed-loop|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15660" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15659" CreationDate="2021-02-16T09:51:18.127" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;As far as I know, that should work. You need to define the correctly used drivers in your configuration. For the closed loop drivers, the board (via a break out board) has to provide the pulses to the motor driver (on the back of the stepper). If you use such a closed loop driver you need to disable the stepper driver type in your &lt;code&gt;Configuration.h&lt;/code&gt; file for those you plan to insert a closed loop driver. The firmware will assume the A4988 driver is being used:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/idu00.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Configuration.h&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/idu00.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; title=&quot;Configuration.h&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now you need to set high enough values for the &lt;code&gt;MAXIMUM_STEPPER_RATE&lt;/code&gt; (150000):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gfoLo.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gfoLo.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and the &lt;code&gt;MINIMUM_STEPPER_PULSE&lt;/code&gt; (3):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mkE3d.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mkE3d.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;in &lt;code&gt;Marlin/src/inc/Conditionals_adv.h&lt;/code&gt; under &lt;code&gt;HAS_DRIVER(4988)&lt;/code&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-02-16T09:57:48.213" LastActivityDate="2021-02-16T09:57:48.213" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15661" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15664" CreationDate="2021-02-16T10:57:55.650" Score="1" ViewCount="330" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm pretty much a noob to the 3D printing community. I got a Creality CR10 V2 as my first 3D printer and I know it's compatible with BLTouch but not included in the package. So I'm dying to add an ABL feature to my 3D printer but I'm on an extremely tight budget right now. However, I found some industrial IR sensors (two Omron E3Z-D82 and five Keyence PZ-M71) in my toolboxes. I know those sensors are pretty expensive and totally overkill for ABV but I want to use what I got in my hands.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the question, can I use those sensors for auto bed leveling? I should say that my printer has a glass build plate. By the way, I'm also open to different cheap alternatives&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are the links to the sensors for more information:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Omron: &lt;a href=&quot;https://industrial.omron.eu/en/products/E3Z-D82-2M&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://industrial.omron.eu/en/products/E3Z-D82-2M&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Keyence:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.keyence.eu/products/sensor/photoelectric/pz-v_m/models/pz-m71/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.keyence.eu/products/sensor/photoelectric/pz-v_m/models/pz-m71/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26890" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-02-16T18:53:41.973" LastActivityDate="2021-02-17T23:10:38.443" Title="Can I use photoelectric sensors to make auto bed leveling on a glass bed?" Tags="|bed-leveling|bltouch|creality-cr-10|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15662" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15682" CreationDate="2021-02-16T13:09:02.410" Score="2" ViewCount="475" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm currently facing a Z banding issue that frustrates me more and more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My printer is a modified Anycubic I3 Mega.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Customizations:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mainboard: Bigtreetech SKR 1.4 Turbo&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Stepper Drivers: TMC 2208 v3&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hotend: E3D Titan Aero&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hotbed: 5 mm aluminum base plate with a 200 W 12 V silicon heat mat and 3 mm hard paper as print base&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;External MOSFETs for the hotbed and hotend each&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bigtreetech 3.5 inch TFT screen as display&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;BL Touch sensor&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Marlin version 2.0.6.1&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I tried to fix this issue:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;check leadscrews for debris&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;cleaned leadscrews and applied new grease&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;checked Z couplers and hand tightened all screws&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;checked tightness of the Y/X axis belts&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;increased the driver current&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;replaced the 12 V 25 A PSU with a 12 V 30 A PSU&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Extruder steps re-calibration&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;PID auto tune for hotend and bed&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pictures of the XYZ calibration cubes I printed:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eA6jt.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eA6jt.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8z0cA.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8z0cA.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Used slicer parameters (Prusa Slicer):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;material: PETG&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;240 °C / 100 °C hotend/bed&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Infill 30 % with 60 mm/s&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;outer perimeter with 30 mm/s&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;100 mm/s travel speed&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 mm retraction with 40 mm/s retraction speed&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The number of these horizontal lines and their occurrence is different on each print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26901" LastEditorUserId="4922" LastEditDate="2021-04-21T13:23:10.273" LastActivityDate="2021-04-21T13:23:10.273" Title="Z banding issue" Tags="|troubleshooting|z-axis|petg|anycubic-i3-mega|bigtreetech|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15663" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13495" CreationDate="2021-02-16T14:35:33.267" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have found the issue. My extruder gear was deformed after 4 months of continuous use which made the extruder have a difficult time when a rapid change in extrusion happened. I swapped it out to a new stainless steel one and it has been working well so far.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These inconsistencies are mainly caused by the pressure in the nozzle not changing fast enough. So to solve this you should look at the extruder setup as that is where the pressure is being controlled. Get any gunk out of there and make sure the path is clear and make sure nothing is grinding and you have a good grip on the filament.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To reduce the change in pressure you should play with printing speed, hotend temperature, linear advance if applicable and you may tune extruder jerk and acceleration although not necessary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20928" LastEditorUserId="20928" LastEditDate="2021-02-22T17:19:11.020" LastActivityDate="2021-02-22T17:19:11.020" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15664" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15661" CreationDate="2021-02-16T19:58:32.637" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;3D printers like the German Reprap (see image) already uses a photosensor for homing the axes.  The trick will be leveling the leveling sensors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, if you use an optical sensor measuring distance, you could mount it on the hotend like we do digital indicators (drop gauge). See &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/470/bed-leveling-method/14526#14526&quot;&gt;Bed leveling method?&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;You would want a resolution of about 0.01 mm.  That method will keep you planer to the movement of the hotend.  For automatic leveling the photosensor needs to input to your software.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to permanently connect the photosensor to the hotend, probably the most practical communication method would be USB, which could supply power as well as communication to eliminate batteries.  The USB cable could run in the path of the other hotend cables.  Less weight on the hot end is if you could remote the laser and detector from the electronics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If only attached during leveling, batteries and wireless connection is better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm finding more digital drop gauges (second image below, data in cable is USB) with computer interfaces than photosensors.  Many of the photosensors would need to interface with a meter first.  Because a  drop meter makes physical contact, it's not practical to leave on the hotend during printing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6VEc3.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6VEc3.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gDK9n.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gDK9n.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15075" LastEditorUserId="15075" LastEditDate="2021-02-17T23:10:38.443" LastActivityDate="2021-02-17T23:10:38.443" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15666" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15601" CreationDate="2021-02-16T23:38:33.467" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;A second &lt;code&gt;G28&lt;/code&gt; should not be necessary as it can be replaced by a &lt;code&gt;G0&lt;/code&gt; or &lt;code&gt;G1&lt;/code&gt; command, but in the end it should work when &lt;code&gt;RESTORE_LEVELING_AFTER_G28&lt;/code&gt; has been set in firmware weren't it for a bug present in the &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/issues/20990&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Marlin 2.0.7.2 and 2.0.x bug-fix release&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2021-02-16T23:38:33.467" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15667" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15714" CreationDate="2021-02-17T07:32:48.363" Score="2" ViewCount="1571" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Creality Ender 5 Pro which has been working properly for some time. During my last print, the axis motors just suddenly stopped working while the extruder motor continued to work properly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In fact, when I connect the extruder motor wire to any of the axis motors, they respond correctly (mimicking the extruder motor) but neither works or moves when connected to its own wire(s). As a result the printer does not print anymore.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's what I've tried:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Switching the wires around to check if any motors are damaged (none are).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Restarting the Creality&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Checking the output on the power source (which is 24 V and about 14 A)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Checking to make sure all motor wires are connected correctly on the SKR MINI CONTROLLER (all seem fine) and checking that the board is powered.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;All external connections also seem fine.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm quite confused why the axis motors would not be working all of a sudden. I'll appreciate your help if you've faced this problem before.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26913" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2022-02-05T22:13:00.183" LastActivityDate="2022-02-05T22:13:00.183" Title="Why would all of the Ender 5 Pro's axis motors (X, Y and Z) stop being able to move (all at once)?" Tags="|troubleshooting|creality-ender-5|bigtreetech|skr-mini-e3|3d-printerworks|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15668" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15618" CreationDate="2021-02-17T13:14:24.147" Score="3" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use the smallest nozzle possible to get better rounded edges on holes.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Slow down the print speed to increase accuracy and prevent errors.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Print it face down against the bed if possible to reduce support requirements for overhangs and increase hole quality.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Clean the bed well, increase bed temperature, stick glue, enable brim, or add 'mouse ears' to prevent warping.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Make sure the bed is levelled properly to prevent warping and increase finish surface quality.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use a 'stringing tester' to find the best temperature to print at so that you can prevent stringing between holes.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Enable z-hop retraction to prevent stringing and errors.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You can bore through the holes with a drill to clean them flush.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26879" LastActivityDate="2021-02-17T13:14:24.147" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15669" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15616" CreationDate="2021-02-17T13:20:21.060" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It would be great if you could add an image showing the stringing that occurs on the filled and helper/support part of the print. It's quite difficult to visualise what is happening/your problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would assume that the density/fill of the print will be different for infill versus helper/support parts of the print. As a result, there are more gaps in the helper/support parts and stringing can more easily occur between them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Have you tried enabling z-hop/retraction to prevent further stringing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26879" LastActivityDate="2021-02-17T13:20:21.060" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15670" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10205" CreationDate="2021-02-17T19:25:52.137" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Try voxelfuse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;    from voxelfuse.voxel_model import VoxelModel&#xA;    from voxelfuse.mesh import Mesh&#xA;    from voxelfuse.primitives import generateMaterials&#xA;    &#xA;    if __name__=='__main__':&#xA;    sponge = [&#xA;        [&#xA;            [1, 1, 1],&#xA;            [1, 0, 1],&#xA;            [1, 1, 1]&#xA;        ],&#xA;        [&#xA;            [1, 0, 1],&#xA;            [0, 0, 0],&#xA;            [1, 0, 1]&#xA;        ],&#xA;        [&#xA;            [1, 1, 1],&#xA;            [1, 0, 1],&#xA;            [1, 1, 1]&#xA;        ]&#xA;    ]&#xA;&#xA;    model = VoxelModel(sponge, generateMaterials(4))  #4 is aluminium.&#xA;    mesh = Mesh.fromVoxelModel(model)&#xA;    mesh.export('mesh.stl')&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26919" LastActivityDate="2021-02-17T19:25:52.137" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15671" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15605" CreationDate="2021-02-17T20:07:50.663" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are various designs which can be made to work at 100 °C.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example this &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4390007&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;solenoid probe&lt;/a&gt; uses a solenoid to lift a plunger during print, letting it drop during probing. The design uses a rare earth magnet which usually loses strength at 60-80 °C, but there are high temperature versions or a ferrite magnet will do. It also uses an Attiny13, rated 80 °C, but there are higher temperature versions of the chip. It is likely that it would work out of specs at 100 °C too, but it uses an optical endstop, which is the limiting factor with 85 °C typical.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4689074&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;This other design&lt;/a&gt; uses a solenoid to push up and down a tactile switch. I see no reason why the solenoid would not work at 100 °C, maybe only the external wires may require replacement to withstand the temperature. There is no electronics limiting the operating temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3593971&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;designs&lt;/a&gt; with a servo are limited by the temperature range of the servo, which is typically 50-60 °C max. I think they would work fine up to 80 °C since they are not operated continuously and they are loaded with little force, but there is no guarantee.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2752968&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;design&lt;/a&gt; working perfectly and with an even lower total weight is based on a microswitch and... the user placing the probe in position manually. It can probably be automated by mounting it on a hinge and by using something on the side of the bed to move it in an upright position and in a tilted position, where it could be held by (ferrite) magnets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2338" LastActivityDate="2021-02-17T20:07:50.663" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15673" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-02-17T21:28:33.593" Score="2" ViewCount="1822" Body="&lt;p&gt;Klipper lets you define a skew profile that is loaded / unloaded on demand during START_PRINT / END_PRINT macros called during printing of a sliced file. This seems to be the recommended way to apply the skew in Klipper, in fact it is in the documentation this way: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.klipper3d.org/skew_correction.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.klipper3d.org/skew_correction.html&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is, should I also manually load the skew profile prior to executing the BED_SCREWS_ADJUST built-in command in Klipper?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or does BED_SCREWS_ADJUST ignore the skew entirely so it doesn't matter?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26713" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2021-02-18T12:58:36.460" LastActivityDate="2021-03-08T14:06:39.220" Title="Klipper BED_SCREWS_ADJUST and SKEW_PROFILE interaction" Tags="|calibration|klipper|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15674" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15559" CreationDate="2021-02-18T03:31:40.597" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;After many hours tinkering, pulling things apart, testing them and re-assembling them, it turned out that the problem was a broken wire for the X_Min endstop. This has now been replaced and the problem is resolved.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23909" LastActivityDate="2021-02-18T03:31:40.597" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15676" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12046" CreationDate="2021-02-18T04:24:32.667" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Try disabling the &amp;quot;Union Overlapping Volumes&amp;quot; option on Mesh Fixes section. Worked for me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26922" LastActivityDate="2021-02-18T04:24:32.667" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15678" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-02-18T06:53:51.800" Score="1" ViewCount="195" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm using a Creality Ender 5 Pro which is modified to produce Direct Ink Writing prints. So far the prints are fine, it's just that at higher layers, the nozzle begins to drag across the extruded material which affects the quality of the print. Also, I'm using a high infill percentage (80 %) as with 30 % the material collapses in the middle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How should I go about in bringing the nozzle up at the higher layers? I've tried increasing the height of the Z end stop so that the nozzle would not go too far down, but it looks like it doesn't solve the issue. Should I increase the height further?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also tried to search online regarding this issue, and found that over-extrusion is the main cause for this. However, I'm extruding at the lowest speed possible with the inks I'm using. Should I just increase the print speed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally, would adding a Z hop command in Creality slicer work?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any suggestions are welcome, I would really appreciate it!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26924" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-02-18T13:10:45.873" LastActivityDate="2021-02-18T13:10:45.873" Title="Nozzle scraping prints in modified Creality Ender 5 Pro" Tags="|creality-ender-5|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15679" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-02-18T10:30:22.437" Score="-1" ViewCount="170" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am starting a new company using 3D printers and doing an advertisement, and I want to use the word FabLab to describe the kinds of field that my company is in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I be sued by using the word FabLab in an advertisement? Is it a trademark? I mean, I can find &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.ebay.fr/sch/i.html?_from=R40&amp;amp;_trksid=m570.l1313&amp;amp;_nkw=fablab&amp;amp;_sacat=0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&amp;amp;_trksid=m570.l1313&amp;amp;_nkw=fablab&amp;amp;_sacat=0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the links it looks like they all trademarked the same non-dictionary word:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://trademarks.ipo.gov.uk/ipo-tmtext/page/Results&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://trademarks.ipo.gov.uk/ipo-tmtext/page/Results&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6803" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2022-05-31T06:53:30.940" LastActivityDate="2024-02-29T15:59:03.787" Title="Is FabLab a registered trademark?" Tags="|diy-3d-printer|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15681" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15658" CreationDate="2021-02-18T13:31:42.923" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The setting that makes these small retractions is &lt;code&gt;LIN_ADVANCE&lt;/code&gt;.&#xA;It is found in &lt;code&gt;Configuration_adv.h&lt;/code&gt; and is disabled in the vanilla configuration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I, on the other hand, is using one of the 46 example configurations that has this feature enabled. It shall be said that most of them them has the value 0 set to this, which means that it has no effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To disable the effect of this feature, send G-code &lt;code&gt;M900 K0&lt;/code&gt; to the printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://marlinfw.org/docs/features/lin_advance.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;More info at marlinfw.org&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.3dmakerengineering.com/blogs/3d-printing/linear-advance-marlin-firmware&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;More info at 3dmakerengineering.com&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M900.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;M900 - If it works, the feature is enabled&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://marlinfw.org/tools/lin_advance/k-factor.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Test pattern generator to tune LIN_ADVANCE&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26869" LastActivityDate="2021-02-18T13:31:42.923" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15682" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15662" CreationDate="2021-02-18T14:48:08.223" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;So it looks like I finally resolved that issue. I compiled a complete new firmware based on the Marlin bugfix branch. Before I was working on the sources provided in the Bigtreetech GitHub. I started from scratch and put all the settings I needed into the Configuration.h and Configuration_adv.h. Now all rings are gone. Either there was really a bug or something or I messed up something in the firmware I used before and beginning from scratch solved it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26901" LastActivityDate="2021-02-18T14:48:08.223" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15684" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15685" CreationDate="2021-02-18T15:23:18.763" Score="4" ViewCount="632" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have run the &lt;a href=&quot;https://marlinfw.org/tools/lin_advance/k-factor.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;K-factor Calibration Pattern generator&lt;/a&gt; to tune &lt;code&gt;LIN_ADVANCE&lt;/code&gt; and found that when &lt;code&gt;K=0&lt;/code&gt;, the whole middle part of the line is thinner.&#xA;I was expecting that &lt;code&gt;LIN_ADVANCE&lt;/code&gt; would only make a difference short after where the speed was increased or decreased, as described by the first picture &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.3dmakerengineering.com/blogs/3d-printing/linear-advance-marlin-firmware&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;on this page&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0I61W.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0I61W.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Running 01_.gcode&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So from this picture, it looks as the best setting is around K=0.8 and that is also what was set as default in &lt;code&gt;Configuration.h&lt;/code&gt; for Chiron. But when I tried the Printing Direction-setting set to 45 degrees the result was different. Then the best setting was around &lt;code&gt;K=0.4&lt;/code&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The picture below shows a second test, where I set &lt;code&gt;K=0&lt;/code&gt; and just changed the fast speed. The faster the thinner lines were printed. I have tested printing long lines and seen that thickness will not compensate, even after a long time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YSgFC.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YSgFC.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Running x01_.gcode&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So why is my printer printing thinner lines when going fast and not using &lt;code&gt;LIN_ADVANCE&lt;/code&gt;? Isn't the number of E-steps per mm printed line constant and not depending on the speed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.telder.com/bilder/stackexchange/LIN_ADVANCE-test_v001.zip&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;zip-file&lt;/a&gt; with the files used and pictures. (let me know if not possible to download)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;ADDED 2021-02-22:&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;To learn more about LIN_ADVANCE I made a second test today. To rule out most of the uncertainties that can affect the result, I let the bed stay heated between all four tests. Every test started at 210ºC, then 200, 190 and last 185ºC. The printer waited more than one minute between each temperature change. Bed temperature set to 60ºC. The lines are numbered in the order they are printed. Each test started by printing four lines at 20 mm/s to get &amp;quot;normal&amp;quot; nozzle pressure. Each line is 20+40+20=80mm long. Today I had acceleration set to 1200 and jerk to 8, which are higher than before (500,5). I changed because I use these values in Cura. Unfortunately, the bed is not 100% flat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;LIN_ADVANCE = &lt;strong&gt;0.0&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/E6DRs.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/E6DRs.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;LIN_ADVANCE = 0.0&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;LIN_ADVANCE = &lt;strong&gt;0.4&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HJobr.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HJobr.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;LIN_ADVANCE = 0.4&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;LIN_ADVANCE = &lt;strong&gt;0.8&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/l099y.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/l099y.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;LIN_ADVANCE = 0.8&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;LIN_ADVANCE = &lt;strong&gt;1.2&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8moP5.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8moP5.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;LIN_ADVANCE = 1.2&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I learned from these today's test:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Very little ooze when going from 190 to 185ºC. (#46 is good)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;At higher temperatures after pausing for a minute, the printer needed some 10 to 15cm of printing distance to get the pressure back. (#16, #17)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Next time I will print every second line as a reference and test fewer speed changes.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Next time I will also test higher temperatures.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The lines are printed thinner at higher speed, independent of temperature when K=0. (I thought it only happened at (too) low temperature).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;code&gt;LIN_ADVANCE&lt;/code&gt; setting shall probably be lower when printing at higher temperatures (affected by filament viscosity).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It might be different behaviour between the grey and the orange filament. Orange looks better, but the grey one sticks better to the bed.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It is fun to do testing. :)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did another test the first day, where I tested K=0 to K=0.8 and where the speed was 20+50+20 mm/s and the length was 60+180+60mm. Temp was 190ºC. It seems to show that even after 180mm of fast printing, the thickness is not recovered:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Qctnt.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Qctnt.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;180mm test&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The pictures above are uploaded at a lower resolution. Original pictures and the G-code can be downloaded from &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.telder.com/bilder/stackexchange/LIN_ADVANCE-test_v002.zip&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26869" LastEditorUserId="26869" LastEditDate="2021-02-22T23:11:03.337" LastActivityDate="2021-02-22T23:11:03.337" Title="Why are fast printed lines thinner?" Tags="|marlin|print-quality|anycubic-chiron|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15685" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15684" CreationDate="2021-02-18T15:57:35.347" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;In your case, since linear advance makes the issue disappear, the reason of the thinner lines is the same as explained in the link you provided:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6pTnB.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6pTnB.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The section (2) simply is very long because you probably have a Bowden setup which takes more than the length of the middle section to recover. However it does recover, see the first line (k=0) in the first image.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At higher (constant) speed the flowrate decreases further due to pressure in the nozzle causing a reduced supply of filament, but this effect cannot be corrected by linear advance because linear advance assumes a linear relationship between pressure in the nozzle and extrusion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2338" LastEditorUserId="2338" LastEditDate="2021-02-18T17:45:39.460" LastActivityDate="2021-02-18T17:45:39.460" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15686" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15614" CreationDate="2021-02-18T16:02:41.090" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found the problem. I'm using an aluminum structure for my gantry. My Chinese power supply was in contact with this structure. There was a current leak from my power supply that was messing with the Z-probe signal.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;I detached the power supply, everything's gotten back to normal, except it had my board and TMC2100 drivers fried a week ago.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13700" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-02-18T17:57:13.760" LastActivityDate="2021-02-18T17:57:13.760" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15687" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15161" CreationDate="2021-02-18T19:14:54.780" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think I had a similar problem once when my hand bumped the gantry rail and I was at a loss.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the time I took out the rail that the gantry runs on and tried aligning it so it was completely horizontal during the reinstallation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I leveled out the print bed by turning them all in one direction (tightening) and then counting the turns I took to unwind each one. I then manually homed the bed and then did an auto home.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, I adjusted the initial printing height to where I wanted and I've been printing fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For reference, I have the ANET ET4. This is kind of an overkill but if all else fails, nothing wrong with taking it apart and putting it together again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26857" LastActivityDate="2021-02-18T19:14:54.780" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15688" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15679" CreationDate="2021-02-18T19:46:17.167" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sorry, I needed to learn to use the site.  This site shows Fablab as a word mark, the same way it shows Apple: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.trademarkengine.com/free-trademark-search/trademark-search&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.trademarkengine.com/free-trademark-search/trademark-search&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15075" LastEditorUserId="15075" LastEditDate="2021-02-18T19:51:27.203" LastActivityDate="2021-02-18T19:51:27.203" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15689" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5474" CreationDate="2021-02-18T23:25:32.410" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The layer thickness should not be more that 75% of your nozzle diameter: &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11679/wavy-lines-on-1st-layer-only&quot;&gt;Wavy lines on 1st layer only&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15075" LastActivityDate="2021-02-18T23:25:32.410" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15690" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15698" CreationDate="2021-02-19T00:53:54.340" Score="1" ViewCount="813" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just as the title says. I feel like I have tried everything. I am compiling the firmware for Marlin on a Megatronics board from RepRap. That shouldn't be relevant, because I have validated that it is a firmware issue (and not a pin assignment/hardware issue).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I turn it on, the Y-axis is active and just constantly holding. The stepper driver on Y-axis gets pretty warm constantly holding (as does the stepper motor).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I swap the pin assignments for Y and X then the physical Y-axis moves fine when I manually change the X-axis so I know all the hardware and pin assignments are correct.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All the endstops are correctly reporting open (Z is BLTouch but that is also working).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Relevant software endstops are currently disabled, and default homing position is set to 50 to make sure it doesn't think it is at the bounds on boot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a test firmware that checks all the endstops, temperature, and servos, and all servos work fine. As a sanity check, pin assignments match what is in the pins file.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone have any idea of what in the latest Marlin firmware would cause a software condition to just hold the y axis and not move? I should note that when I try to manually move it in Repetier-Host it shows that it is moving. When I try to give the home command, no movement on the Y but Repetier changes from red to black indicating it received confirmation of homing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am completely out of ideas at this point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26907" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-02-19T02:18:11.360" LastActivityDate="2021-03-28T08:37:59.093" Title="Can't get Y-Axis to move with Marlin firmware" Tags="|marlin|firmware|y-axis|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15691" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-02-19T08:12:05.683" Score="1" ViewCount="1478" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently tried cleaning my CR-10S Pro heat bed with acetone and it made this white stain on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyone have any solutions to this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26936" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-02-19T09:06:27.800" LastActivityDate="2021-02-20T15:55:23.023" Title="Acetone making white stains on heat bed" Tags="|heated-bed|cleaning|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15692" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15691" CreationDate="2021-02-19T11:45:57.820" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you use a build surface such as PEI, acetone frosts your surface, leaving a white film appearance.  If you have no additional surface on a glass or metal bed, it is incomplete cleaning.  If incomplete cleaning, you could try isopropyl alcohol (IPA) immediately after acetone, followed immediately by a water based cleaner or DI/distilled water. (IPA dissolves acetone and water dissolves IPA. Once the film dries the next step may not work.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can't clean off a frosted surface.  The black surface of the hot bed in images of the CR-10S Pro appears to indicate that the steel bed has a build surface with a plastic material such as PEI.  Reviews of the build surface being difficult to remove prints also implies a plastic build surface on the steel.  Thus, it appears that the white film after cleaning with acetone is actually a frosted surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you use an Elmer's washable glue stick or one with PWP, it will form a barrier between your print and the build surface, that not only will protect your build surface, but will make it easier to clean your build surface with IPA or water based cleaners.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15075" LastEditorUserId="15075" LastEditDate="2021-02-20T15:55:23.023" LastActivityDate="2021-02-20T15:55:23.023" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15695" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-02-19T17:19:50.553" Score="2" ViewCount="180" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Bowden extrusion printer in my garage. (Printing PLA is smelly and is nothing I want to be exposed to for an extended period of time!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I enclosed the printer within a plastic sheet housing to reduce the energy consumption of keeping the hot bed tempered. I noticed that a strong temperature fluctuation influence how the PLA part turns out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I start printing in the morning a print that takes 2 hours to print -- in a cold garage, cold filament, cold tube, I end up with a solid first 4 layers and lacy last 4 layers. The last 4 layer are so thin that they end up to be almost see through.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;last layer&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ulVeP.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ulVeP.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;last layer&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;first layer&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EBlRs.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EBlRs.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;first layer&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am assuming that the PLA and tubing heat expansion difference is the reasoning for that undesired under extrusion phenomenon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The cold Bowden tube is perhaps expanding more then the PLA filament and the tubing is warming up more quickly being directly exposed to the heat during the heating up of the unit; obviously, the PLA filament is inside the tube and is kept colder for much longer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I solve this -- keeping the printer in the garage? And, would a direct extrusion mod remedy this under extrusion?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most likely preheating the printer would help, but that would call for an insulation upgrade from plastic sheet to Styrofoam. Insulating the Bowden tube may also be worth trying. (Happy printing.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25499" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-02-19T22:53:33.520" LastActivityDate="2021-02-19T23:53:49.497" Title="Direct vs Bowden Extrusion when printing in temperature fluctuating environment" Tags="|underextrusion|bowden|temperature|direct-drive|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15696" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15637" CreationDate="2021-02-19T19:03:34.477" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I ended up taking a third option I suppose.  I decided I was cutting the gap wrong.  I was using &lt;code&gt;difference&lt;/code&gt; to take a rectangle out of the ring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I decided I'd simplify that and take out an extruded triangle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;ringRadius = radius + thickness;&#xA;verticalOffset = tan(gapAngle / 2) * ringRadius;&#xA;&#xA;linear_extrude(height = height)&#xA;    polygon(points = [[0, 0], [ringRadius, verticalOffset], [ringRadius, -verticalOffset]]);&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That way, the thickness of the plane that needed rounding is uniformely the thickness of the ring.  Then, it was just a matter of adding cylinders, centering them in the ring, and rotating them into position.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;for(side = [-1, 1]) {&#xA;    cornerRadius = radius + thickness / 2;&#xA;      &#xA;    rotate([0, 0, gapAngle / 2 * side])&#xA;        translate([cornerRadius, 0, 0])&#xA;            color(&amp;quot;blue&amp;quot;) cylinder(r = thickness / 2, h = height);&#xA;}&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Eventually I'd like to make it a little more complex and help accommodate a light better, but for now it gets me the rounded ends I was looking for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NQll4.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NQll4.png&quot; alt=&quot;Rounded ends of ring&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm still going to accept the round everything answer because, though I decided it was more complexity than it was worth on this model, it looks like it would solve other rounding issues too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14900" LastActivityDate="2021-02-19T19:03:34.477" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15697" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-02-19T22:13:56.300" Score="1" ViewCount="171" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is printing PETG extruding at 250 °C, 1st layer bed at 80 °C then 60 °C on other layers.  Nozzle is 0.4 mm; printer is German Reprap X400.  The all metal extruder is clean with no oozing.  The print gets a blob when the wall width changes from 2 mm to 1 mm.  The extruder squishes the blob out the sides of the wall with subsequent layers.  Images below show both sides of wall.  I'm looking for the cause to come up with a fix.  I consistently get the same results in the same location when printing this file.  The reduced area of the layer does cause reduced speed to increase the print time for the layer (speed reduced when layer would print in less than 30 seconds; minimum speed 15 mm/s).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I printed two, there was only one blob on one of two.  Below shows the speed settings.  The perimeters are three vertical shells, so the walls are all perimeters.  My understanding of the setting is the 2 mm wall printed at 20 mm/s and the 1 mm wall at 15 mm/s.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Printing similarly with 2 mm walls only and the same settings, the print is nearly perfect with only a few stringers.  Printing with only 1 mm walls does not have the blob, but does have stringers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See solution at the end.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/T0WBA.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/T0WBA.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xDyNO.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xDyNO.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Solution:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Speeding up the print speeds and using thicker walls not only eliminated the blogs, but also completely eliminated stringers, and gave a near perfect print.  Apparently, the actual temperature that PETG extrudes is highly dependent on how fast it extrudes.  Printing too fast clogs the nozzle because the filament doesn't have time to melt.  Printing too slow causes the hotend to stop extruding from heat creep.  Here, the actual temperature of the extruded PETG was decreased by speeding up the extrusion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7STxh.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7STxh.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;s://i.stack.imgur.com/Uhv61.png&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15075" LastEditorUserId="15075" LastEditDate="2021-02-23T12:37:59.563" LastActivityDate="2021-02-23T12:37:59.563" Title="What is cause of blob when layer area reduces by 50%?" Tags="|troubleshooting|extrusion|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15698" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15690" CreationDate="2021-02-19T22:56:31.960" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is a problem in the Megatronics default config file. I used an other default config file and it worked!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26907" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-02-19T22:58:57.737" LastActivityDate="2021-02-19T22:58:57.737" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15699" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15791" CreationDate="2021-02-19T23:45:38.477" Score="1" ViewCount="1774" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a used Creality CR-10S and I have been using it for one day.  I seem to be having problems with my Y-axis.  Several times when I selected &amp;quot;Auto home&amp;quot;, the bed only moved part of the distance it should have for the head to get to the bottom left corner.  It is only the bed movement that has the problem; the head successfully goes to the extreme left each time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2Lth9.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2Lth9.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;This picture shows an instance when the bed only moved half as far as it should.&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It does not always happen and when it does, it seems to usually go half as far as it should, but once the bed did not move back at all.  I am having a similar problem on &amp;quot;Bed Auto Leveling&amp;quot;. Once when it was supposed to go to the back left corner, the nozzle went past the bed by about 5mm.  I tried to reposition it with &amp;quot;Move axis&amp;quot; but it thinks it is at 0.00 and it won't let me go negative.  One way I can fix it is to &amp;quot;Disable steppers&amp;quot; and then move the bed by hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have done two prints and in both cases there was no Y-axis drift during the print. After first print, &amp;quot;Auto home&amp;quot; only went half way but I was not paying attention to other details.  After the second print the machine was off and I moved the bed by hand in response to @octopus8.  Then I turned it on and selected &amp;quot;Auto home&amp;quot;. The head descended and moved all the way to the left but the Y-axis did not move at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I move the bed by hand through its entire range, either with the machine off or after choosing &amp;quot;Disable steppers&amp;quot;, it is pretty smooth. It has some resistance to movement, about the same as the X-axis resistance. I can feel very small &amp;quot;steps&amp;quot; if I move it very slowly.  These are both consistent throughout its entire range.  There are no individual spots where it behaves differently.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have made sure that the bed's belt is tight.  I check the wheels.under the bed.  I cleaned them with a rag.  When I turned them by hand, several were slipping against the rail (not causing the bed to move when I turned the wheel.)  I tightened their bolts and that tightened some of them against the rail but a couple others still slip against the rail.  Is this important? After these adjustments and turning printer on, &amp;quot;Auto home&amp;quot; worked and the steps on &amp;quot;Bed Auto Leveling&amp;quot; also did the correct things.  I will report on more post-adjust experience as I get it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ever since I tightened the Y-axis belt and wheels I have not had the problem happen again having done 10+ prints. I tried the gcode that @octopus8 suggested at various speeds and the print head always ended up back where it started.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I will keep printing and if I experience the problem again I will investigate more then.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26949" LastEditorUserId="26949" LastEditDate="2021-03-03T00:27:46.383" LastActivityDate="2021-03-04T03:15:15.743" Title="Y-axis movement error" Tags="|creality-cr-10|y-axis|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15700" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15695" CreationDate="2021-02-19T23:53:49.497" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't think your temperature based explanation makes sense. This looks to me just like a first layer smashed against the bed, possibly too much due to nozzle being too low, followed by underextrusion when there's actually the right amount of space to extrude into. If you have fewer than 3 top layers or less than 0.6 mm of top layer thickness, you will almost certainly have an underextruded top like this just from the first top layer sagging into the space between the infill lines. Since the walls look okay, this is my best guess; if the walls looked bad too I would suspect poorly tuned filament diameter/E-steps-per-mm. Also check that your infill is not too sparse; more than 4 mm or so between infill lines gives a lot of room for top layers to sag into and may increase the number of top layers you need.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I see you added in the comments that your layer height is 0.1 mm. At such thin layers, you probably need at least 5 or 6 top layers; the first 2-3 are expected to sag and not fill the space.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2021-02-19T23:53:49.497" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15701" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13897" CreationDate="2021-02-20T02:02:53.343" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently wanted to print something with small walls as well and &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.gambody.com/blog/3d-printing-gaps-cura-settings/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this site&lt;/a&gt; helped me out.&#xA;Basically just set horizontal expansion to 0.04 and Cura does a better job.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26953" LastActivityDate="2021-02-20T02:02:53.343" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15702" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-02-20T04:19:08.337" Score="1" ViewCount="80" Body="&lt;p&gt;I noticed that when printing small teeth on a pulley that the angle is not matching the design angle. I am printing without any support structure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Overview:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/h2jBR.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/h2jBR.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;overview&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Detail:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Cd0Ae.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Cd0Ae.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Detail in question&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Printed:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xosTn.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xosTn.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The printed overhang incline angle under the tooth looks good (maybe not quite steep enough;) but the top angle of the reclining section looks too flat. It is as if the tooth is too perky.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(I have observed a similar behavior when printing overhanging corners. They build upward more quickly.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is causing this, and how to prevent it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I reduced the speed for the outer layer to 30 mm/s, the infill is set to 40 mm/s. Layer (Z) is set to 0.1 mm. Material PLA 1.75 mm, nozzle 0.4 mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cura layer detail:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Bv7nj.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Bv7nj.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Cura detail&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cura Prepare&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qyaHz.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qyaHz.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Cura prepare&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cura Preview&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ICZuS.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ICZuS.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;close up&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25499" LastEditorUserId="25499" LastEditDate="2021-02-20T16:41:29.583" LastActivityDate="2021-02-21T05:00:16.320" Title="how to control fine details from overhanging part to not build upwards" Tags="|print-quality|support-structures|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15703" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15702" CreationDate="2021-02-20T13:05:20.967" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think the issue is unsupported overhangs. There is not enough material to support the first layer of each small tooth. Have a look at how your slicer slices the first couple layers at the bottom. It might be that it tries to reduce the angle to 45°, so that it can print overhangs, or the overhangs are drooping before the next layer can assist with support.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looking at your first two images, I think the printed top part of the tooth is actually quite similar to your 3D design.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can fix this by making the tooth profile from the side have a 45° slope to maximum height, and the same on the top if you want the teeth to appear symmetrical.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tIFSv.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tIFSv.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7470" LastEditorUserId="7470" LastEditDate="2021-02-21T05:00:16.320" LastActivityDate="2021-02-21T05:00:16.320" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15704" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15691" CreationDate="2021-02-20T13:14:43.430" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Acetone is quite an aggressive solvent, so white residue could be part of your heatbed print surface that is dissolved, and then when the acetone evaporates the dissolved part crystalise on the heatbed again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Acetone should only be used on PEI sparingly, not at all on powder coated surfaces. Use IPA (Isopropyl Alcohol) to clean of residue between prints. If you have problems with adhesion, you can also start by washing the build plate or surface with water and dish soap (with no other additives). The surfactant in the soap traps oils and other impurities and flush them away, instead of dissolving them temporarily and then depositing it on the build surface again when the solvent evaporates.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Like mentioned in other comments, use IPA or water/dish soap to clean off any residue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7470" LastActivityDate="2021-02-20T13:14:43.430" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15705" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-02-20T18:32:40.727" Score="3" ViewCount="2588" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am configuring my Cura G-code settings, and I'm not sure if the Printer G-code settings (printer tab of Machine Settings) should be the same as the Extruder G-code settings (extruder tab of Machine Settings). Does one set of settings override the other? Should they be different?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm using the following for Printer Start G-code:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;M140 S{material_bed_temperature_layer_0} ;Start heating bed&#xA;M104 S{material_print_temperature_layer_0} ;Start heating extruder&#xA;G28 ;home&#xA;G90 ;absolute positioning&#xA;G1 X-10 Y-10 F3000&#xA;G1 Z0 F1800&#xA;G92 E0&#xA;G1 E20 F200&#xA;G92 E0&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Printer End G-code:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;M104 S0 ;extruder heater off&#xA;M140 S0 ;heated bed heater off (if you have it)&#xA;G90 ;absolute positioning&#xA;G92 E0&#xA;G1 E-1 F300 ;retract the filament a bit before lifting the nozzle, to release some of the pressure&#xA;G28 X0 Y0&#xA;M84 ;steppers off&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26964" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-02-20T21:41:58.270" LastActivityDate="2021-06-09T05:33:37.830" Title="Cura G-code Printer G-code settings vs. Extruder G-code settings" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|g-code|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15706" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-02-20T23:04:47.373" Score="4" ViewCount="1710" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm experimenting with my new Ender 3 V2 using PETG filament on the textured side of the included glass bed without any additional adhesives.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm been having trouble with adhesion until I found out that enabling raft on my prints helps solve the problem. However, I can't help to wonder whether skirts work any different than rafts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my test prints, all settings are identical except for the raft vs. skirt setting (using Cura as my slicer). However, the outer line of a raft adheres perfectly to the glass, while the outer line of a skirt fails to stick completely and moves around when the nozzle goes &amp;quot;around the corner&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any difference between the outer border of a raft and a skirt as produced by Cura?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: I've managed to upload a video comparison of raft and skirt in the same project. &lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/_jioBxInBS4?start=0&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26966" LastEditorUserId="26966" LastEditDate="2021-02-21T10:37:32.993" LastActivityDate="2021-02-21T18:54:10.357" Title="Why does a raft adhere to the bed while skirt does not?" Tags="|creality-ender-3|ultimaker-cura|glass-bed|rafts|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15707" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-02-21T00:54:08.363" Score="1" ViewCount="163" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here's an idea of what's going on. This is a picture of the progress during the first layer:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NNg4z.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Picture of the progress during the first layer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NNg4z.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Picture of the progress during the first layer&quot; title=&quot;Picture of the progress during the first layer&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Printing a simple calibration square, and as you can see, my X-axis is not moving like it should. I turned my speeds down from 30 mm/s to 5 mm/s and this is the result.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What happens:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Printing starts after homing and proper temperatures have been reached.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Starting from lower left, printing starts, filament pushed out.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;X-axis motor is told to move, but it doesn't. Takes 0.5 seconds to think about the given order and only then moves. By now, a smudge of filament has been pushed into a blob at the start corner but the move is executed at a proper speed. Reaches &amp;quot;destination&amp;quot; and stops moving. &lt;em&gt;This has resulted in too short of a face for X-axis.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Y-axis receives the order to move and does so properly. Lower left corner is done properly due to Y axis moving instantly.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Y reaches it goal destination, X receives orders to go to left. Lags behind, filament pushed out creates a smudgy corner due to lag. Reaches &amp;quot;destination&amp;quot; (lag is the same so it creates a regular pattern)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Y receives orders to go back to start coordinates and does so.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And this can be seen on the diagonal lines. Y moves constantly, X lags behind so it creates those vertical lines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No idea what's causing this and causing a bit of a headache.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Things I've tried:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Slowing down&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Calibrations&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Adjusting belt tension&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Different COM port&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Printing from SD card&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tightening the pulley teeth onto the stepper motor&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Getting this far was already a pain and now I'm kinda stuck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26965" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2021-02-21T09:51:42.340" LastActivityDate="2021-02-21T09:51:42.340" Title="Printing issue with X-axis motor" Tags="|print-quality|stepper|motor|axis|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15709" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15697" CreationDate="2021-02-21T04:03:15.973" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Try lowering your extruder flow rate and maybe temperature as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had this problem once and I thought it was just a bit of gunk that had been hanging onto the outside of the extruder. That is usually not the case and instead it is probably build-up from over-pressure inside the nozzle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also note that 250 °C will start degrading your PTFE tube unless you have an all-metal extruder. Lowering temperature can also reduce the stringing visible in the picture, however to fully, get rid of stringing, you may have to adjust your retraction and acceleration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23583" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-02-21T14:02:35.507" LastActivityDate="2021-02-21T14:02:35.507" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15712" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-02-21T09:56:38.980" Score="2" ViewCount="54" Body="&lt;p&gt;I ran out of ideas on what could cause my problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ender 3 Pro&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Nozzle temp 200 °C&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bed temp 60 °C&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;PLA filament&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please look at the pictures. The first layers don't look nice. The top and the sides are perfect.&#xA;This happens in every print. With and without raft or brim. The strange thing is that raft and brim looks very good on the bedside. Is there some settings I am missing out on here?&#xA;Tried with Creality Slicer that came with the printer, and the Ultimaker Cura slicer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SxnPj.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SxnPj.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26972" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-02-21T12:31:29.157" LastActivityDate="2021-02-21T12:46:00.527" Title="Problem with the first layers on the print" Tags="|print-quality|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15714" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15667" CreationDate="2021-02-21T10:34:14.970" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Creality V1.1.5 board was fried. I replaced it with a BIGTREETECH SKR MINI E3 V2.0 32BIT CONTROLLER. After struggling to find a corresponding firmware for the Ender 5 pro, the axis motors worked correctly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26913" LastActivityDate="2021-02-21T10:34:14.970" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15715" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15712" CreationDate="2021-02-21T12:46:00.527" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The filament is not flattened, it looks like the nozzle deposits round filament strings while in fact they should be flattened more. This usually indicates that the nozzle to bed distance is too large. A perfect distance is obtained with plain A4 or US letter paper (usually 0.1 mm thick; or 0.004&amp;quot;) during levelling where there is a slight drag/friction force observed when the paper is pulled between bed and nozzle. Alternatively, you can use feeler gauges:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/C1rzd.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/C1rzd.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Considering that the raft is printer well, it could well be that the initial nozzle to bed distance is correct, but the distance between the raft and the first layer of the product is too large.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2021-02-21T12:46:00.527" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15716" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-02-21T18:37:54.840" Score="1" ViewCount="213" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an Ender 3 printer and can not figure out why the top and bottom layer of this print comes out the way it does every print. I have tried increasing the initial layer height to 0.3 mm and increasing the flow rate to 120 % with little to no results. I print on glass with gluestick and get good adhesion I also print at 215 °C with the bed at 60 °C. My bed is leveled with an index card. Any suggestions on what might be causing this issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RMZRf.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Bototm of part&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26982" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-02-21T20:00:32.980" LastActivityDate="2021-02-21T20:00:32.980" Title="Top and bottom of part not coming out smooth" Tags="|print-quality|extrusion|smoothing|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15717" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15706" CreationDate="2021-02-21T18:54:10.357" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The raft base (initial layer) is usually printed with &lt;strong&gt;very wide&lt;/strong&gt; lines. Cura's default is double the nozzle diameter, so 0.8 mm with standard 0.4 mm nozzle. This is ridiculously high flow, especially with the default 0.3 mm thickness, which is why the raft base lines are (and must be, unless you have a seriously overpowered hotend) printed so slowly. So, each line has significantly increased (double) surface contact, more pressure against the bed, more forgiveness if the bed clearance is too high (since it will still smash against the bed, just spreading out less than the whole 0.8 mm width), comes out slower (giving it better opportunity to adhere), and does not involve any curves (where the nozzle may &amp;quot;pull&amp;quot; just-extruded material that's not yet adhering).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may be able to get a lot of the same benefit with skirts (or brims) by increasing the &amp;quot;Skirt/Brim Line Width&amp;quot; setting and slowing down its speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2021-02-21T18:54:10.357" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15718" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-02-21T19:44:56.390" Score="0" ViewCount="226" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've had the BLTouch working fine using this kit and following the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07RZBFQK3/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;psc=1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;instructions it shipped with&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wanted to increase the number of probe points so I've attempting flashing with Marlin to achieve this. With the home-brew Marlin the probe doesn't extend for homing, with the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.creality.com/download&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;default Creality firmware&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm running an Ender 3 Pro on 4.2.2 Mainboard. The wiring diagram has used the Z endstop connector for the BLTouch, I've followed &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=neS7lB7fCww&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this video&lt;/a&gt;, but clearly the wiring mechanic is different.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've included:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;// Force the use of the probe for Z-axis homing&#xA;#define USE_PROBE_FOR_Z_HOMING&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But it has no effect. x and y work fine, but at z the probe doesn't extend.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since it boils down to some setting changes in the firmware (since that's the only thing that has changed) I'm hoping someone has the answer to this question already. Unfortunately, I can't find any Creality source code for comparison and since it is working on their firmware and not the home-brew my expectation is I've missed a setting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26984" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-02-21T19:58:34.943" LastActivityDate="2021-02-21T19:58:34.943" Title="BLTouch Creality Firmware works, Marlin doesn't" Tags="|marlin|creality-ender-3|bltouch|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15722" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15697" CreationDate="2021-02-22T15:25:30.647" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my experience, when you see mysterious blobs on PETG (especially if they don't appear with other materials and comparable slicing settings), the cause is almost always this: PETG sticks &lt;strong&gt;really well&lt;/strong&gt;, to itself and other surfaces. This means when you move the hot nozzle over already-printed PETG, &lt;em&gt;especially if it's unretracted&lt;/em&gt; so that there's still molten PETG in the nozzle orifice, it will tend to &amp;quot;dig up&amp;quot; the material that's already there as a blob and deposit it somewhere it doesn't belong. Not only is this ugly and messy to clean up in postprocessing, but since the material was moved away from the place it actually belonged, it harms layer adhesion and makes your part brittle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The best mitigations I know are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Disable combing (either entirely or effectively, e.g. by setting max combing move distance to 0.5 mm or so; the latter avoids slowing down printing of top/bottom skins). This will avoid unretracted moves over already printed material.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Disable slicer features that omit retractions when there are &amp;quot;too many&amp;quot;. In Cura this is &amp;quot;Minimum Extrusion Distance Window&amp;quot;. Set it to 0. Otherwise retractions will start getting skipped at geometry-dependent points in the print, which may very well be what you're hitting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Keep travel speed reasonable. Above 80 mm/s is probably too fast and in my experience may dig up already-deposited PETG even if you retracted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Set &amp;quot;Minimum Wall Flow&amp;quot; (or your slicer's equivalent) to something like 20%, bounded away from 0. If the slicer emits near-zero-width wall lines because they're all that fit due to overlap, the move to print them is essentially a combing move (unretracted travel) because the flow is so low, and the same problems with digging up blobs arise. Better to just omit these lines and leave a small gap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastEditorUserId="11157" LastEditDate="2021-02-22T16:49:01.803" LastActivityDate="2021-02-22T16:49:01.803" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15723" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11285" CreationDate="2021-02-22T15:47:24.530" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Soap and water are absolutely the wrong stuff for cleaning the print bed. It's a base, and bases are slippery. This helps things like dirt slip off when we clean, but will also make it harder for filament to adhere to the bed. Instead, use rubbing alcohol, which is slightly acidic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally, not all hairsprays are good for this. There is a certain ingredient you need, and some don't have it. Others do have it, but also have other things that interfere. AquaNet is known to be good for this. You can also buy made-for-purpose spray for 3d printing beds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12562" LastEditorUserId="12562" LastEditDate="2021-02-22T21:54:09.430" LastActivityDate="2021-02-22T21:54:09.430" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15724" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15644" CreationDate="2021-02-22T18:17:58.683" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was wondering if it had something to do with my Z-axis and BLTouch. When I unplugged the Z-axis on the printer, the extruder wouldn't lower, only raise; so I plugged it back in, and it moves in the right direction. The motherboard I'm using is a SKR E3 Mini V2 and the BLTouch is 3.1 On that version motherboard, the BLTouch plug has all 5 wires combined in one plug, whereas on other versions it has a three-wire plug for the BLTouch, and the wires for the Z-axis from the BLTouch have a separate two-wire plug with its own plug-in spot. But I've read about instances where users had to plug those two wires into the motherboard's default plug for the printer's Z axis which is usually unplugged. I decided to unpin the BLTouch Z-axis wires from the 5-wire plug and unpin the printer's Z-axis two wires and repin that plug with the Z-axis from the BLTouch and plug into the spot on the motherboard that is normally used by the printer's wires, and that fixed the problem. There's &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/bigtreetech/BIGTREETECH-SKR-mini-E3/tree/master/firmware/V2.0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;information&lt;/a&gt; on GitHub that the board manufacturer posted about the issue, and thankfully that was my exact problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26847" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2023-01-16T14:19:50.217" LastActivityDate="2023-01-16T14:19:50.217" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15725" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-02-22T18:29:29.243" Score="2" ViewCount="217" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have succumbed to asking the community for assistance. I've been scratching my head and lost many late nights and time trying to figure out what is going on with my 3D printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please see the image of what's going on with it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sometimes my printer doesn't even get this far, most of the time it fails at the 5th layer or so because it stops extruding is what I suspect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've replaced the hot end entirely, a new thermistor inside the hot end, replaced the PTFE tube, upgraded the extruder feeder to aluminum. Replaced the extruder gear, and for some reason, the filament just stops feeding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've tried several retraction settings from 80 mm/s and 2 mm of filament, to 20 mm/s and 6 mm of filament.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Initial Layer Height: 0.25 mm&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5Ka5b.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Failed print&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5Ka5b.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Failed print&quot; title=&quot;Failed print&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope the community can help me out here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27003" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2021-02-23T04:07:05.420" LastActivityDate="2021-03-25T17:03:35.507" Title="Mid-print issue, extruder issue?" Tags="|creality-ender-3|creality-ender-5|prusaslicer|creality|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15726" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15725" CreationDate="2021-02-22T20:25:40.147" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Do the two loose pieces go where the fill shows up on the larger piece?  If so, you may have internal surfaces there that need deleting in your drawing so that they don't mess up your slice program.  Otherwise, the slice program may leave a gap in the gcode where you have no extrusion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you retract too much, it can cause the filament to jam in the hotend, but you wouldn't be getting all the mid-air extrusion, not connecting to anything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We need more information to give you a more precise answer.  I suspect you have a settings or gcode/drawing issue rather than a hardware issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15075" LastEditorUserId="15075" LastEditDate="2021-02-23T16:38:15.570" LastActivityDate="2021-02-23T16:38:15.570" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15727" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15729" CreationDate="2021-02-23T05:24:53.203" Score="3" ViewCount="520" Body="&lt;p&gt;Using Prusa I3 MK3S&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am using PLA fillement and I need to do cold pull from time to time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I noticed many people on Internet suggestusing Nylon fillement for clod pull.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wanted to reach out to this community and ask if it is better using Nylon fillement for cold pull even if I have been using PLA?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25720" LastActivityDate="2021-02-23T10:35:05.187" Title="Is it better use Nylon fillement for cold pull even if I have been using PLA?" Tags="|print-quality|pla|prusa-i3|nozzle|nylon|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15729" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15727" CreationDate="2021-02-23T10:21:27.903" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Nylon holds better when pulled, PLA may snap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also it can grab particles around it, but it keeps low friction so the force you use to pull goes to detaching the dirt instead of rubbing against the walls.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By getting solid and by maintaining strength at higher temperatures, you can pull when it's hotter (with PLA you should pull at what? 40 °C?) and by being hotter can grab particles and remains of other filaments which are potentially softer. It's pulled at around 140-150 °C so that ABS and PLA at that temperature are very sticky and soft.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By holding easily higher temperatures (250-260 °C easily) you can also extrude it and it will melt any other filament in the nozzle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Try doing some cold pulls with a light colour PLA to be able to see what it grabs. After a couple of pulls it should be clean. Then do nylon and check how much more stuff it will remove. If it's nothing, no need of using nylon. If it's dirty, it's the proof it can clean everything better than PLA.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A sample of nylon (50 g usually) will be sufficient for a long time so no need to get a full spool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2338" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-02-23T10:35:05.187" LastActivityDate="2021-02-23T10:35:05.187" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15730" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10345" CreationDate="2021-02-23T12:34:07.903" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had the same problem. It seems it was definitely a loose connection on the BLTouch.  I put a wire tie around the neck of the BLTouch, just underneath the mounting feet, to secure the wire and ensure a good connection regardless of position. It has worked great so far.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27017" LastActivityDate="2021-02-23T12:34:07.903" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15731" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15733" CreationDate="2021-02-23T13:04:44.800" Score="1" ViewCount="269" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm going to add a Raspberry Pi to my printer, which requires a 5 V source. I want to take this opportunity to also power the Arduino with that same source, as dropping 12 V -&amp;gt; 5 V is a quite big waste. I know the electronics don't consume much power, and the regulator can handle the heat, but why not?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to know how can I safely do this. Is it sufficient to just bent the pin from the RAMPS to the Arduino's VIN?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm also using TMC2209 stepper drivers. According to this: &lt;a href=&quot;https://learn.watterott.com/silentstepstick/pinconfig/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://learn.watterott.com/silentstepstick/pinconfig/&lt;/a&gt;, these requires the 12 V line to turn on before and turn off after the 5 V.&#xA;I wonder if this is true, as I haven't seen this anywhere else.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23353" LastEditorUserId="23353" LastEditDate="2021-02-24T02:46:53.877" LastActivityDate="2021-02-24T02:46:53.877" Title="How should I connect a separated 5 V source to an Arduino connected to a RAMPS board" Tags="|electronics|arduino-mega-2650|switching-power-supply|raspberry-pi|ramps-1.6|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15732" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-02-23T19:48:21.590" Score="1" ViewCount="556" Body="&lt;p&gt;For a school project, my teacher gave me a brand new Longer 3D printer to create parts with. After one good job, the printer cannot get past the raft creation without air printing. The thickness of the printed filament tapers down until no filament is coming out. I do not believe there is a jam in the hot end because if I remove the filament and cut off about 4 inches, the printer extrudes as normal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am using 1.75 mm PLA on a Longer 3D LK4.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the problem occurs, the extruder continues as normal but prints out very little filament. The extruder drive gear also ticks backward as if it cannot supply enough force to move the filament forward.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have tried decreasing the speed, increasing the temperature, turning off retractions, but none of those options seemed to have any effect on the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If videos or pictures could be helpful let me know what to include.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My working idea of what's wrong is that heat creep is causing the filament inside of the heat sink to soften causing the filament to thicken and Jam. I could be wrong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/T7Rxz.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Failed Raft&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/T7Rxz.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Failed Raft&quot; title=&quot;Failed Raft&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Figure one highlighting how the filament thins over the course of the raft creation until no more filament is extruded.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7UhUH.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Thickened Filament&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7UhUH.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Thickened Filament&quot; title=&quot;Thickened Filament&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Figure two showing how random parts of the filament is thicker than others. The thickness is noticeable and once I cut this section off, filament flows freely through the Bowden tube without friction. With this section, the filament is difficult to remove and requires more force.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have tried:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;increasing the interface thickness to 0.4 from 0.27 mm and from 0.4 to 1.0 mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;increasing the print speed from 50 mm/s to 90 mm/s&#xA;allowing the printer to cool off.&#xA;decreasing the temperature to 190 °C&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;During the print, I have noticed that the heat sink is hot to the touch during the raft creation but cools off once the fan starts spinning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The fan does not spin at all during the creation of the raft. But spins at full speed once the actual print has begun. Longer does not have a setting inside their software to change this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have gotten a few really small prints to work with print surfaces smaller than 2 cm wide&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The prints themselves turn out great if they get past the raft stage (only for small prints). This additionally leads me to believe that heat creep is the problem and that the fan not being on is the cause.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let me know if you have any ideas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27022" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2022-11-18T10:50:47.040" LastActivityDate="2023-12-13T18:06:10.810" Title="Air printing/jamming midway through raft creation" Tags="|extruder|underextrusion|drive-gear|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15733" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15731" CreationDate="2021-02-23T22:26:22.373" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would not recommend changing Arduino powering.&#xA;You can either do as you say and power Arduino by giving it regulated 5V to Vin, but then the ATMEGA2560 still will be powered through the 5V voltage regulator. The voltage regulator (NCP1117ST50T3G) needs to be supplied with 6.5V to give out regulated 5V. So you will be powering the Arduino with some 4V, which might work, but it will be less reliable. But it is electrically safe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second option is to power Arduino through it's 5V pin. That is less safe, because the voltage regulator might have an over output-over-voltage-protection that will to load or short-circuit the 5V until it is 5.000V.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regarding TMC2209. I have not seen any documentation that has any opinion on what order it shall be powered up and down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26869" LastActivityDate="2021-02-23T22:26:22.373" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15734" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-02-24T01:02:06.980" Score="1" ViewCount="158" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm getting close with this print, but I'm seeing some rippling at the base that I can't seem to eliminate (see photo at the end of the post). The model is &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/jpstroop/printer_cam/blob/main/stl/box.stl&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; if it helps. It seems that the texture evens out above the floor of the box.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think these are the relevant settings:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Extruder temp: 240 °C&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bed temp: 110 °C&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Infill outline overlap: 20 %&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Infill: 40 %, triangles&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Layer height: 0.1 mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;First layer height and width: 200 %&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Speed: 40.0 mm/s (first layer: 40 %)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bottom solid layers: 3&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Top solid layers: 6 (I was getting a lot of &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/comments/3x94a7/what_causes_bubbling_on_the_top_layer/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;pillowing&lt;/a&gt; with any less; still&#xA;am even with 6)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Perimeter layers: 6&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Retraction: 1 mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Retraction speed: 20 mm/s&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The printer is a Flashforge Creator Pro.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vIXBs.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vIXBs.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;print with unwanted texture at base&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27025" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-02-24T01:39:37.980" LastActivityDate="2021-02-24T01:39:37.980" Title="Unwanted texture at base of ABS print" Tags="|print-quality|abs|flashforge-creator|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15735" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-02-24T02:56:46.750" Score="1" ViewCount="161" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Witbox 2 running Marlin that I got second hand and it seems like nothing is able to be calibrated on it. I have tried many times to get the nozzle calibration to save but it never seems to save my values, even with the &lt;code&gt;M500&lt;/code&gt; command.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, when I try to run PID autotune the temperature just stops reading (only reads 0 °C) and then gives me a timeout error and disconnects me from the printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am new to 3D printers and have no clue what is happening here. The printer prints almost perfectly. I just want to hone it a bit more to make it as good as possible, but it seems like it's not an option for some reason. Can someone offer an idea as to what is happening? Did I get a bad printer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27028" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-02-24T03:12:11.873" LastActivityDate="2021-02-24T03:12:11.873" Title="PID Autotune not working and M92 calibration not saving?" Tags="|marlin|pid|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15736" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4778" CreationDate="2021-02-24T03:10:55.193" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ff4r7.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&#xA;By my mistake 12v in heatbed Vout plug and then the temperature shows(ramps 1.6)&#xA;Plase help me&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27029" LastActivityDate="2021-02-24T03:10:55.193" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15738" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15732" CreationDate="2021-02-24T16:39:10.057" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your symptom sounds like heat creep might be stopping the extrusion.  See if this discussion helps you troubleshoot: &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/15629/understanding-all-the-ways-to-avoid-heat-creep&quot;&gt;Understanding all the ways to avoid heat creep&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: decreasing speed and increasing temperature makes heat creep worse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your picture of filament shows what people with Bowden extruders describe as typical of heat creep.  The Bowden tube isolates the filament drive motor from the temperature of the extruder.  On well put together Bowden tube extruder, there is no place for softened filament to bunch up. So, heat creep occurs when the melted filament goes up the region of the heat break in the heat sink.  Thus, to determine heat creep one needs to ask, &amp;quot;Is the expanded part of the filament extending into the heatsink.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15075" LastEditorUserId="15075" LastEditDate="2021-02-25T22:19:33.780" LastActivityDate="2021-02-25T22:19:33.780" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15739" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-02-24T16:55:14.277" Score="1" ViewCount="116" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is the MKS and BigTree closed loop stepper the same? I see more responses to BigTree question. I read BigTree was plug and play and seems to be getting good support from them.  I'm using the &lt;strong&gt;MKS&lt;/strong&gt; product and trying to go from a standard Nema17 to the &lt;strong&gt;MKS&lt;/strong&gt; Closed Loop. Using PlatformIO C++, Arduino Nano, DRV8825 with the expansion bd. When using the MKS42b the driver is removed and replaced with the adapter and cable to the MKS. I can run the simple code provided in GitHub but can't get beyond that.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;I'm stuck for now, I'm just trying to move the stepper to a given position (degrees) when ACS712 senses an AC current. If I can accomplish that I can move on to the array set up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Over view of project:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;AUTO GATE PROGRAM C++&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Description:   For use with vacuum system for dust collection in a woodworking shop.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Consists of one stationary round disk with holes arranged every 45°, 8 “ports” total each leading to a specific tool.  Mated to this is a secondary disk that rotates with one matching port that aligns with the stationary ports 1 at a time as rotated. This assembly can be operated manually or automatically via this program.&#xA;Using an Arduino Nano Microcontroller, ACS712 current sensors, and a Closed Loop stepper motor.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;In simple terms,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Each current sensor is connected to an analog port and detects when that tool is turned on.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Each port is assigned a specific position that the stepper is programmed to 45, 90, 135, 180 ... 360°.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The digital output from the Nano would tell the stepper to go to that position. The Closed Loop stepper remembers its current position and would remain in that position if it is already there. “Using same tool repeatedly”&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27045" LastEditorUserId="27045" LastEditDate="2021-02-28T21:08:44.327" LastActivityDate="2021-02-28T23:05:00.953" Title="MKS / Bigtree Closed Loop stepper the same?" Tags="|stepper-driver|arduino|mks|closed-loop|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15740" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15856" CreationDate="2021-02-24T16:57:35.127" Score="2" ViewCount="5648" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm printing a lot of draft parts so I don't care if they fall apart in my fingers, I just need the shape. I can scroll to the Tune menu on my Ender 3 Pro console and set the speed to 200% and it doubles the speed. But when I set the Print Speed setting to 100 instead of 50 mm/s in Cura, it doesn't save much time, even if I adjust the individual first layer speed, wall speed, top layer speed, etc. What is the difference?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ideally, I would like the first layer to print normally, and then print at 2x speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26997" LastActivityDate="2021-03-13T16:30:12.153" Title="What is the difference between tuning the speed on the Ender 3 panel, and the Cura Print Speed setting?" Tags="|creality-ender-3|ultimaker-cura|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15741" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10345" CreationDate="2021-02-24T20:01:46.450" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is it something like in this video?&#xA;Extending/retracting when NOT probing works fine, but probing fails with the pin not correctly retracting?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/AJjYDmRgy1s?start=0&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then the BLtouch is defective and it should be replaced. It is not a firmware issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2338" LastActivityDate="2021-02-24T20:01:46.450" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15742" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15744" CreationDate="2021-02-24T20:38:49.417" Score="0" ViewCount="122" Body="&lt;p&gt;I need to find a way to design and build a real shopping cart for my project. I have not idea where to start from but I'm thinking maybe I can 3D print the shopping cart which will allow me to quickly iterate on the design. How could go about with 3D printing a project like this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please I will appreciate other suggestions better than 3D printing&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27048" LastEditorUserId="27048" LastEditDate="2021-02-24T22:30:07.443" LastActivityDate="2021-02-25T20:15:38.157" Title="How to 3D print a shopping cart" Tags="|diy-3d-printer|3d-design|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15743" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13923" CreationDate="2021-02-25T04:19:47.830" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the comments for the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/920076234/the-creatorbot-3d-printer-professional-grade-large/comments&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Kickstarter&lt;/a&gt;, there is a Google Drive link that is still active &lt;a href=&quot;https://drive.google.com/file/d/1c_LtrJrt6LFdcwhY34014x-TkXsHUBMM/view&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23193" LastActivityDate="2021-02-25T04:19:47.830" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15744" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15742" CreationDate="2021-02-25T20:15:38.157" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you need a real shopping cart, please think about &lt;strong&gt;actual requirements&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Carts are sturdy devices, build on &lt;strong&gt;very consistent frame&lt;/strong&gt;, because they are meant to carry heavy loads. The built must be focused on &lt;strong&gt;good jonts&lt;/strong&gt; and &lt;strong&gt;durable wheels&lt;/strong&gt;, otherwise forces from load or streatching would quickly damage the construction. Some parts of frame are normally under strain, and a direction of load forces is not always downwards, therefore frame has to be robust.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cheap &lt;strong&gt;additive manufacturing&lt;/strong&gt; technologies of standard printers are not suitable to produce objects of this size in one piece. If to follow this idea, one chellange would be to design pieces of the print, which could be connected or glued into a ready cart. 3d prints have tendency to snap along layers of print, therefore frame would need to be carefuly built from parts designed to be printed horizontally, rather than vertically. Construction of wheels carrying the cart with assumed load could be not possible, because load forces could mangle them very quickly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Only the amount of material needed to print the whole thing could &lt;strong&gt;exceed cost of the cart&lt;/strong&gt;. And the same would be about more expensive printing techniques, like printing of metal. The shopping cart is a good example of thing which is &lt;strong&gt;not worth printing&lt;/strong&gt; (at least in 2021).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;BTW: Shopping carts have some plastic parts, and printing these could be indeed possible. I suppose they are only &lt;strong&gt;protectors&lt;/strong&gt;, not a part of cart construction frame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would advice to look to &lt;strong&gt;get a ready cart&lt;/strong&gt;. Check locally for used, worn out or reconditioned shopping cart for your project.  Maybe even try to rent it somewhere. It would be much easier and quicker then trying to 3d print the cart, even if it is possible to do it within some reduced requirements.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26170" LastActivityDate="2021-02-25T20:15:38.157" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15745" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-02-26T03:15:10.800" Score="5" ViewCount="6448" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have had my Ender 3 v2 for just over two months and have had a blast working with it. I have printed some mods to personalize it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of the things that I have done to help mitigate the vibrational noise is to place my Ender 3 on a concrete paver that sits on top of 3 inches of upholstery foam. This has made a huge difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With the vibration noise down, now I can hear the fan on the extruder like never before.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both fans are listed as &amp;quot;brushless&amp;quot; EFS-04D24L; of course, they look different in the pictures below:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3xxsc.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3xxsc.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Fans label side&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CDnem.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CDnem.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Fans back side&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What options are there to help reduce the fan noise? I wasn't sure if a baffle or enclosure would help. Or would it be easier to replace the fans with quieter ones?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23193" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-02-26T22:16:37.210" LastActivityDate="2023-05-10T17:47:41.213" Title="Options for making Ender 3 v2 fans quieter" Tags="|creality-ender-3|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15746" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15745" CreationDate="2021-02-26T04:27:46.943" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Fans driven by brushless (BLDC or BL) motors&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; are the quieter option (when compared to cheaper brushed motors).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mounting the fans using rubber anti-vibration standoffs/mounts&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;, instead of bolts, would also reduce vibration (and hence noise).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rRS7h.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Rubber anti-vibration mounts&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rRS7h.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Rubber anti-vibration mounts&quot; title=&quot;Rubber anti-vibration mounts&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or, failing that, if using bolts, at least use rubber washers/grommets, between the fan case and the frame/mount (maybe on both sides - frame side and bolt head side).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A baffle or enclosure &lt;em&gt;would&lt;/em&gt; reduce the noise, but would also reduce airflow, which may not be desirable, and even detrimental to the cooling, and longevity of the electronics (assuming your fans are cooling a RAMPS board, or whatever).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively (and I don't necessarily recommend these courses of action):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Put up with the noise. After a while, you'll get used to it, or become sufficiently deaf, so as not to hear it so much;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Try to reduce the &lt;em&gt;number&lt;/em&gt; of fans somehow. Maybe use passive cooling more - using larger heatsinks on active electronic devices maybe remove the requirement for a fan altogether.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Footnotes&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; Also known as electronically commutated (EC) motor  and synchronous DC motors. Source: &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brushless_DC_electric_motor&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Wikipedia&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; Also known as pin, rivet, nipple, peg, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4762" LastActivityDate="2021-02-26T04:27:46.943" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15748" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15755" CreationDate="2021-02-26T13:19:13.390" Score="2" ViewCount="917" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an Ender 5 pro and upgraded from the magnetic bed to the glass version. I print with Prusament PLA on 65 °C bed temp and 220 °C extruder temp. I measured that the glass surface has ~58 °C in the center and ~56 °C on the corners. That should be in the specs of the spool which has a printed recommendation of 50 +- 10 °C for bed and 215 +- 10 °C for extruder temps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now I also have a BLTouch and use the TH3D firmware so Z offsets should work correctly and are done with the Z offset wizard present (nozzle touching the bed).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem I currently have is that the first layers have &amp;quot;lifts&amp;quot; in them. Also, it seems that the layer itself is not 0.2 mm everywhere. It's close to 0.23 mm on the edges but on the inner there are variances up to 0.36 mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Currently, I slice with Cura 4.8.0 on Standard Quality 0.2 mm&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do I get rid of the lifts and irregularity in the layer? Is it a problem with the bed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ScOMF.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ScOMF.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Lifts&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wmNBR.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wmNBR.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;darker areas are 0.36mm&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27083" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-02-26T23:06:05.767" LastActivityDate="2021-02-27T20:09:13.457" Title="Irregular adhesion on Creality glass bed" Tags="|adhesion|temperature|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15749" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15748" CreationDate="2021-02-26T14:38:53.843" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I haven't seen lifts that aren't on the edge of the print, such as warping, or the entire printed surface lifts.  When I get something like in your photograph, it's because the print surface isn't flat and the first layer matches the surface topology.  If the second image shows the print surface, it looks like blobs on the surface that may be keeping it from being flat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first layer thickness greatly depends on how high the nozzle is above the print surface.  If this distance varies, the first layer thickness will vary.  Also make sure your print surface is free of any substances that the hot extruded material might cause to boil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any chance you are removing the print from the bed before it cools down.  This can distort the print if the material is still soft.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15075" LastEditorUserId="15075" LastEditDate="2021-02-26T15:07:48.380" LastActivityDate="2021-02-26T15:07:48.380" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15750" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15745" CreationDate="2021-02-26T14:59:12.077" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are companies making fans with blade design based on owl wings to make the blades quieter. Here's an example &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.moduflow.co.uk/owlet-fans/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.moduflow.co.uk/owlet-fans/&lt;/a&gt; and I've seen other designs.  I don't know which design ended up being the quietest.  First, you would need to find out who makes these fans the right size and flow rate for you, then try to find out which is quietest.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is another example: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.bequiet.com/en/casefans/718&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.bequiet.com/en/casefans/718&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15075" LastEditorUserId="15075" LastEditDate="2021-02-27T11:23:39.237" LastActivityDate="2021-02-27T11:23:39.237" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15751" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-02-26T18:15:26.220" Score="1" ViewCount="105" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know how to adjust the firmware for the BTT expansion module?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am going to be using this(&lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/bigtreetech/BTT-Expansion-module/tree/master/BTT%20EXP-MOT&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://github.com/bigtreetech/BTT-Expansion-module/tree/master/BTT%20EXP-MOT&lt;/a&gt;) to add three additional motors and I know that I have to edit the code somehow to add the three extra drivers?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not quite sure where or how but I'm guessing it has something to do with the pins.h file?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27086" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2021-02-28T12:45:02.880" LastActivityDate="2021-02-28T12:45:02.880" Title="How to code for the BTT expansion board?" Tags="|marlin|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2021-02-26T23:08:31.050" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15752" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15740" CreationDate="2021-02-26T18:16:52.073" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can look under Cura setting to set ' Initial Layer Print Speed ' and ' Initial Layer Travel speed ', you may appropriately set you print speed as you required&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27087" LastActivityDate="2021-02-26T18:16:52.073" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15753" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-02-27T02:17:54.937" Score="4" ViewCount="6768" Body="&lt;p&gt;I need to shrink an STL file below the 25 MB threshold, so I can open it in TinkerCad. I don't care about quality, I just need it shrunk.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I do this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zedoU.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Screenshot of error&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zedoU.png&quot; alt=&quot;Screenshot of error&quot; title=&quot;Screenshot of error&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27091" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2021-02-27T03:40:13.233" LastActivityDate="2023-09-28T20:50:12.977" Title="File too big to open in Tinkercad. How can I shrink it?" Tags="|3d-models|3d-design|stl|tinkercad|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15754" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15753" CreationDate="2021-02-27T05:05:05.303" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have 3D software like Blender you can import your model and use the decimate modifier to lower the number of vertices and then re-export.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a link to how you can do this: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rHWCCYWhCMA&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Simplify Geometry with the Decimate Modifier in Blender 2.9&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/rHWCCYWhCMA?start=0&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27092" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2021-02-27T08:49:50.837" LastActivityDate="2021-02-27T08:49:50.837" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15755" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15748" CreationDate="2021-02-27T16:00:08.673" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The only time I've seen lifting, away from the edges of the part like this, is when the bed is contaminated with something which will stop the print sticking, like fingerprints and such.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A thorough wipe-down with IPA on the heated bed is usually enough to stop it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16795" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2021-02-27T20:09:13.457" LastActivityDate="2021-02-27T20:09:13.457" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15756" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-02-27T16:44:33.923" Score="1" ViewCount="963" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can't get anything from my printer since I change filament (I always use PLA from SUNLU). I changed the nozzle, redo the leveling... Every time now, the nozzle seems way to close to the bed and the PLA just stick to the nozzle and not the bed. I was wandering if I need to change the hot end.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is me leveling each corner and center of the printer using a flyer from a shoe store.&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IhG6t.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IhG6t.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Leveling the printer&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and this is the result when I try to print stuff (actually square to refine the leveling):&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xEQGW.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xEQGW.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Actually printing&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27094" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2021-02-28T19:32:30.140" LastActivityDate="2021-02-28T19:32:30.140" Title="Levelling issue with Anycubic Chiron" Tags="|bed-leveling|hotend|anycubic-chiron|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="6" ClosedDate="2021-02-28T21:22:46.073" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15757" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15759" CreationDate="2021-02-28T01:07:19.693" Score="2" ViewCount="154" Body="&lt;p&gt;If someone creates a 3D model of a character for 3D printing can I import that model into Unreal engine or Unity 3D for use in a video game? Also is the inverse true? Can I get 3D model of Mario and send that to a 3D printer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Specifically, it’s more important to know if I can pull a 3D printer model into an unreal game project&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18803" LastActivityDate="2021-03-02T20:37:44.303" Title="Can 3D printer models be used in video game engines and vs versa?" Tags="|3d-models|3d-design|file-formats|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15758" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14745" CreationDate="2021-02-28T02:32:54.073" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;8 mm rods and 6 mm GT2 belts are generally accepted as a good tradeoff between price and performance, an exact calculation is possible but might not be very relevant if another part is flexing. Also, generally speaking, the smaller the part the sooner it will wear out of specification. Thus your service interval might be higher compared to an over-engineered printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In short, it depends on what your goal is, if you desire low maintenance and accurate machine, you might be better off with heavier gauge parts. Obviously, this will also affect the speed of printing.&#xA;A 6 mm GT2 belt might have a higher stretch factor compared to a 10 mm belt, but can be mitigated by adjusting the acceleration. In addition, a 10 mm belt has a larger pulley reducing the number of steps per mm, lowering precision. As such you might be better of using two 6 mm belts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Increased rod size for the print bed will not affect printing speed much but might help with accuracy since the bending modulus is lower. Play around with the calculators below to get an idea of the force your beam will have to withstand. That said, there are a lot of other factors that will flex under load, for example, the bed leveling springs. You can replace them with solid spacers, but that might warp the bed when it heats up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.engineering.com/calculators/beams.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.engineering.com/calculators/beams.htm&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.omnicalculator.com/physics/acceleration&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.omnicalculator.com/physics/acceleration&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To conclude, I would use the calculators to figure out if the 8 mm rods are within tolerance for the intended speeds and load, but don't forget to look at the overall picture. The quality of parts you choose is one such thing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14813" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-02-28T05:16:14.207" LastActivityDate="2021-02-28T05:16:14.207" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15759" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15757" CreationDate="2021-02-28T08:16:27.020" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes. You can import it into Blender, but it will need &amp;quot;bones&amp;quot; and &amp;quot;armature&amp;quot; if you want it to move at all.   In Blender, you can manually add armature and &amp;quot;Rig&amp;quot; it, if you want animations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can probably convert whatever file type the 3D model is (probably STL) to fbx with Blender&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For animating, start with a super basic 2-bone rig YouTube tutorial, then learn about vertex weights or automatic weighting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But you'll have to UV map it too. The UV map tells textures where to go on the model, STL doesn't have those.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your time is 100% better spent finding a model that's ready and moving on with your project.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.unrealengine.com/marketplace/en-US/store&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Unreal Marketplace&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also,&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.turbosquid.com/3d-model/free/low-poly/character&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.turbosquid.com/3d-model/free/low-poly/character&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.cgtrader.com/free-3d-models/character?polygons=lt_5k&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.cgtrader.com/free-3d-models/character?polygons=lt_5k&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18803" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-02-28T14:55:56.603" LastActivityDate="2021-02-28T14:55:56.603" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15760" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-02-28T09:49:24.987" Score="1" ViewCount="68" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to make it so that the E1 and E0 do exactly the same as the Y motor and I was wondering if anyone here knew how to do that?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I basically just want to make it so that when the Y motor is triggered, so is the E1 and E0.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd really appreciate any help, thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27086" LastActivityDate="2021-03-06T03:14:46.133" Title="How to make it so that multiple motors respond to" Tags="|marlin|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15761" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14745" CreationDate="2021-02-28T11:35:34.380" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The 3D printing revolution started out with the idea/community project to build self-replicating machines:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;RepRap was the first of the low-cost 3D printers, and the RepRap Project started the open-source 3D printer revolution. It has become the most widely-used 3D printer among the global members of the Maker Community.&#xA;&lt;em&gt;(From RepRap.org)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main aspects for this project was to build self-replicating machines from cheap and &amp;quot;simple&amp;quot; available materials and making them freely available for the benefit of everyone. The rod solution is a simple and affordable solution for linear motion with fair tolerances.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as the rigidity of the X carriage, rods aren't the best solution, increasing rod diameter will surely increase the stiffness, but it will be smaller than a design that uses a (quality) linear rail, these are much stiffer. Note that instead of steel, carbon rods can be used, these are stiff and light and reduce the weight of the carriage, allowing for higher acceleration and speed. The solution of using rods is mainly based on availability and being a cheap solution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do note that rods flex much more than linear rails, even when you increase the diameter, this will limit the length of the X-axis.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://m.all3dp.com/2/linear-rail-3d-printer-really-better-or-just-a-hype/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;From all3Dp&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any decent rail will have far less give. In terms of 3D printing, this leads to greatly reduced backlash and ringing artifacts, yielding cleaner print surfaces and edges.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Belts allow the rotational motion to be transferred into a linear motion. Belt width depends on the force (carriage weight) you need to move. Same as for rods, an increased height will allow for a larger load to be driven/moved, but for a fixed load, the increasing height allows for less stretch and thus less printing defects. Note the different &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/6714&quot;&gt;types of belts&lt;/a&gt; are available, all having their own stiffness and load bearing capacity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2021-02-28T11:35:34.380" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15762" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-02-28T12:47:47.667" Score="3" ViewCount="226" Body="&lt;p&gt;I mostly print mechanical parts and thus need dimensional accuracy.&#xA;When calibrating my printer I stumbled over the fact, that some people calibrate flowrate with single wall prints which would give you a good measurement for your new flowrate. Doing this will on the other hand lead to underextrusion as you print perfect circular lines that only touch in a single point/line, leading in worst case to delamination. So you'd have to crank up the flowrate at least for the internal walls to fill out the &amp;quot;square&amp;quot;-corners (Cross section image B) you want to fill up as well.&#xA;Doing this is already better, but could lead to a poorly connected outer wall to the rest of the print. Thus an idea (which isn't supported by Cura slicer):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;For a dimensional print without air gaps&lt;/strong&gt;, shouldn't the:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1st outer wall be printed to be the perfect diameter&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2nd outer wall be printed with higher flowrate, to fill what the 1st is missing and fill up square corner&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;rest of inner walls fill up the missing square corners&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qD2eC.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qD2eC.png&quot; alt=&quot;A) Optimization from equal flow to full true dimensional prints B) visualization of cross section for square corners&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Probably the best fill up will be reached by printing the second outer wall after the outer and inner walls as it wouldn't go under the 1st walls cavity on its own.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Image (Simplified cross section of a single layer and its printed geometry):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;A1&lt;/strong&gt;: Print with all the same flowrate, each line is printed with the nozzles diameter (Danger of delamination)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;A2&lt;/strong&gt;: Print with 3 different flowrates. 1st outer wall with nozzle-sized lines. 2nd outer wall with highest flow to fill cavities under 1st OW and to fill up corners (air gaps), inner walls with medium flow to fill corners&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;A3&lt;/strong&gt;: ideal flow into corners and cavities&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;A4&lt;/strong&gt;: perfect result to aim for&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Now some questions:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is this already possible with other slicers?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do you have done that and can share thoughts?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Are there any drawbacks you see doing this?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27101" LastEditorUserId="27101" LastEditDate="2021-02-28T18:05:22.887" LastActivityDate="2021-02-28T18:05:22.887" Title="Wouldn't a higher flowrate for 2nd outer wall increase the print quality?" Tags="|print-quality|ultimaker-cura|slicing|dimensional-accuracy|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15763" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-02-28T14:34:44.637" Score="3" ViewCount="175" Body="&lt;p&gt;Questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Should repeated applications of &lt;code&gt;G29&lt;/code&gt; (auto-level) result in the same matrix as long as nothing is loose or has otherwise mechanically changed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Should the center of the &lt;code&gt;G29&lt;/code&gt; matrix normally be very close to zero since the center of the auto-level probing  sequence usually occurs in the same X, Y location as the location where the &amp;quot;home&amp;quot; Z reference height was measured?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Background details:&#xA;I’m using a CoreXY type printer with Marlin 2.0.3 software installed on a Robin Nano control board and I’m trying to get a BLTouch to work correctly and consistently.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I issue successive &lt;code&gt;G28&lt;/code&gt;, &lt;code&gt;G29&lt;/code&gt; sequences, I get alternating results for the center point of the matrix:&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;1st &lt;code&gt;G28&lt;/code&gt;, &lt;code&gt;G29&lt;/code&gt; sequence, center point = 0.00 (+/- 0.01 mm),&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;2nd &lt;code&gt;G28&lt;/code&gt;, &lt;code&gt;G29&lt;/code&gt; sequence, center point = +0.21 +/- 0.01 mm,&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;3rd &lt;code&gt;G28&lt;/code&gt;, &lt;code&gt;G29&lt;/code&gt; sequence, center point = 0.00 (+/- 0.01 mm),&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;4th &lt;code&gt;G28&lt;/code&gt;, &lt;code&gt;G29&lt;/code&gt; sequence, center point = +0.21 +/- 0.01 mm,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Results will continue with this alternating pattern indefinitely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I expected the &lt;code&gt;G29&lt;/code&gt; matrix to be consistent with successive measurements as long as there was no physical change made to the bed.&#xA;I also expected the center of the &lt;code&gt;G29&lt;/code&gt; matrix to be consistently very close to zero since both the “home” and the center of the auto-level matrix are usually at the same X, Y location (I circled it with a marker on the bed to be sure).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For troubleshooting:&#xA;I have replaced the probe (I was using a clone, but I’m now using a genuine BLTouch) with no change in behavior.&#xA;I have replaced the cable with no change in behavior.&#xA;For consistency, all tests are run without heating either the bed or the nozzle so there is no influence from thermal expansion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27102" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-03-01T12:33:41.533" LastActivityDate="2021-03-01T12:33:41.533" Title="Should center point of G29 matrix always be zero?" Tags="|marlin|bed-leveling|bltouch|z-probe|print-axis-offset|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15766" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4692" CreationDate="2021-03-01T01:56:29.900" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just flashed my new Ender 5 with Marlin and I had the same issue. The 2nd and 3rd layers were digging into the previous layers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I manually lowered the bed by 10 mm via the machine knob and the bed only moved 5.207 mm (I used a dial caliper).  I went into the EEPROM and adjusted the steps/mm for the Z from 400 to 769:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;10 mm /5.207 mm is 1.921&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;400x1.921 is 768.4&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I rounded up to 769&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The next test print was a success.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This was an odd thing for me since the test print I did before flashing the firmware was just fine. It only started after I flashed Marlin. This is how I knew that it wasn't the stepper itself, but just a setting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27106" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2021-03-01T12:54:32.083" LastActivityDate="2021-03-01T12:54:32.083" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15767" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15111" CreationDate="2021-03-01T09:43:50.510" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Based on CNC Kitchen measurements,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/uvlMeTnjriQ?start=0&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;the wear can be initially estimated by judging the overall length of the nozzle. Abrasive particles wear the nozzle very little on the channel (so the diameter doesn't change, for a while) but they wear out the outer surface in contact with the printed part, resulting in a shortening.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, once the shortening gets severe, the diameter will increase because you reach the inner chamber.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2338" LastActivityDate="2021-03-01T09:43:50.510" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15768" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-03-01T14:04:21.360" Score="3" ViewCount="104" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I check the Cura preview, then there isn't support over the shell, but when the part is printed, then there is support over the shell and it makes it look ugly. It happens only for front and back but the left and right sides are without support over the shell.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you open the .gcode file in Cura then you also can't see support over the shell.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What could cause this problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kRUyU.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kRUyU.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Added view from &amp;quot;Line Type&amp;quot;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tzUfz.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tzUfz.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="24982" LastEditorUserId="24982" LastEditDate="2021-03-03T18:02:08.270" LastActivityDate="2021-03-05T16:37:29.913" Title="Why is support printed over shell if layer preview doesn't show it?" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|support-structures|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15769" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-03-01T15:42:07.717" Score="0" ViewCount="2237" Body="&lt;p&gt;I built a model and it previewed correctly.  When rendering for STL export (F6), I got an assertion error:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;ERROR: CGAL error in CGAL_Nef_polyhedron3(): CGAL ERROR: assertion&#xA;violation! Expr: e-&amp;gt;incident_sface() != SFace_const_handle() File:&#xA;/mxe/usr/x86_64-w64-mingw32.static.posix/include/CGAL/Nef_S2/SM_const_decorator.h&#xA;Line: 329&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most of the model rendered correctly, but one component disappeared.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Moving the object didn't change the problem, but isolating just the disappearing part gave me a correct render of that part.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2082" LastEditorUserId="2082" LastEditDate="2021-03-02T03:05:38.243" LastActivityDate="2021-04-01T04:06:15.610" Title="OpenSCAD render (F6) fails with &quot;ERROR: CGAL error in CGAL_Nef_polyhedron3()&quot;" Tags="|3d-models|3d-design|cad|openscad|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15770" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15769" CreationDate="2021-03-01T15:42:07.717" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Reading between the lines on other forums, I found that the GCAL renderer will render a malformed object, but it will fail when a binary operator, such as union or intersection, is applied to that object.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There was a discussion about degenerate points (two points in a polygon list that were the (nearly) the same values.  I had this situation, but fixing it did not solve the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I rederived the face lists, and found that for one face the vertices were listed in the opposite order from the others.  Rather then using right-hand-rule, I had used left-hand-rule.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Reordering the vertices for the one face fixed the problem.  There was no way to see the problem from the preview.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A more useful diagnostic message would have been helpful, or a tool for checking polyhedra for being manifolds could have saved me hours of experimenting and failing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2082" LastEditorUserId="2082" LastEditDate="2021-03-02T03:06:55.107" LastActivityDate="2021-03-02T03:06:55.107" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15771" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15774" CreationDate="2021-03-01T16:03:20.437" Score="2" ViewCount="116" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have found a video about Invisalign. I saw a 3D printer in the video but I did not understand its type. Can you help me? Do you share a brief piece of information about its type?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Below is the video on YouTube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/bKsGNrEKx9M?start=0&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23759" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2022-05-12T21:46:31.027" LastActivityDate="2022-05-12T21:46:31.027" Title="What type of 3D printer is this?" Tags="|resin|part-identification|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15772" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15794" CreationDate="2021-03-01T16:26:21.943" Score="2" ViewCount="1548" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is my first 3D printer so I'm not entirely sure what could be the cause of this issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I recently got a SUNLU S8 3D printer and have been trying to print the first test file, however, the layers end up stringy (for lack of a better word -- if anyone knows whether this is called something else, I'd appreciate the knowledge because Google searching for stringy layers does not yield similar results).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway, I tried to increase the nozzle temperature from 205 °C to 215 °C and that seems to help slightly (filament is PLA and came with the printer). I also noticed that the extruder's feeder gear is grinding on the filament so I suspect that may be part of the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Before I purchase an extruder kit, I figured I'd reach out and ask this community what they think could be the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know what might be causing this issue?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Pzyj9.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Pzyj9.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Stringy first couple layers&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I cleaned the tubing and nozzle, and then releveled the bed. The filament was still stringy and whispy, however, I decided to let it print for a while. Although the picture is a top-down view, the walls of the print are also holey.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.imgur.com/HQhQQuv.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.imgur.com/HQhQQuv.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;After Cleaning&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27121" LastEditorUserId="27121" LastEditDate="2021-03-04T13:37:12.543" LastActivityDate="2021-03-04T14:31:06.013" Title="Stringy first layer (possible extruder issue?)" Tags="|extruder|troubleshooting|underextrusion|stringing|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="14" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15773" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15771" CreationDate="2021-03-01T16:50:07.997" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you look at the video at 37 seconds, it appears to be SLA or DLP.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Further reading: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.solidprint3d.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/SLA_vs_DLP.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.solidprint3d.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/SLA_vs_DLP.pdf&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4922" LastActivityDate="2021-03-01T16:50:07.997" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15774" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15771" CreationDate="2021-03-01T16:50:24.097" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the video, there is this still from &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/bKsGNrEKx9M?t=32&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;0:32&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/bKsGNrEKx9M?t=32&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jf2F8.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The labeling is iPro 8000, which is a &lt;a href=&quot;http://infocenter.3dsystems.com/product-library/sla/ipro-8000-9000&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;3dSystems resin printer using SLA technology.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastActivityDate="2021-03-01T16:50:24.097" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15775" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15780" CreationDate="2021-03-01T20:35:48.233" Score="2" ViewCount="1200" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to get a sequential print going (first time trying this) and Cura won't slice due to build volume issues. From the graphic shown, it looks like this should be sufficiently spaced out but I'm not sure what the problem is. Any tips? I've moved the objects around all over the build volume and it never changes back to &amp;quot;allowable&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lcrXh.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lcrXh.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27124" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-03-01T22:16:59.373" LastActivityDate="2021-03-02T15:35:33.833" Title="Cura Sequential Printing" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15776" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15790" CreationDate="2021-03-01T22:01:28.157" Score="7" ViewCount="17112" Body="&lt;p&gt;I printed this &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4775702&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Curvy vase&lt;/a&gt; from Thingiverse and it came out pretty well on my Chiron.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AP0wQ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Curvy vase print&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AP0wQ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Curvy vase print&quot; title=&quot;Curvy vase print&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I am not happy with the Z-seam that is very large. When I look at other people's problems with this, they often seem to have too little filament at the seam, but I have too much. What setting should I change to make it less visible?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Printer: Anycubic Chiron with Marlin 2.0.7&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Material: PLA&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Slicer: Cura 4.8.0.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Nozzle: 0.4 mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All Cura settings are &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.telder.com/bilder/stackexchange/curvy_vase/Curvy_Vase.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; (except that I lowered printing temperature to 200 ºC while printing).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All files used and some pictures are &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.telder.com/bilder/stackexchange/curvy_vase/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2021-03-07 &lt;strong&gt;Addendum&lt;/strong&gt; after I made 19 test-prints of a small portion of the vase's neck. Below are some of my notes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol start=&quot;8&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Combing Mode=All is better than Off&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Speed=60 is worse than 40&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Retract Before Outer Wall=On is worse than Off&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Outer Wall Line Width 0.45 to 0.35 gave a Z-seam on the outside with more build-up&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Inner Wall(s) Line Width 0.45 to 0.35. Some places has less contact between layers, so less appealing and less robust. Also less material use.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Outer Wall Wipe Distance 2.0 spread ot the seam (too much), and also made a ditch before the Z-seam (on the outside of the ring).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Coasting tripled to Vol=0.588 and Wipe Distance 5.0 is more appealing. Two changes at once make it impossible to know which one helped. 5 mm is not enough to completely wipe.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;50% printing speed improved Z-seam and surface smoothness&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the future I will use slower speed for Outer Walls, test Wipe distance=2*Line Width, use Combing (turned Off because of some advice to do so when LIN_ADVANCE is used) and experiment with faster retractions and Z-movement.&#xA;Pictures and complete notes are available &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.telder.com/bilder/stackexchange/curvy_vase/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26869" LastEditorUserId="26869" LastEditDate="2021-03-07T06:54:35.900" LastActivityDate="2021-03-07T23:02:48.550" Title="How to get less Z-seam?" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|anycubic-chiron|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15777" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15776" CreationDate="2021-03-01T22:17:57.327" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;This &lt;a href=&quot;https://support.ultimaker.com/hc/en-us/articles/360012512340-Shell-settings&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Cura support page&lt;/a&gt; lists the options for Shell settings, specifically:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Seam corner preference&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Z-seam is hidden as much as possible by default. However, for some projects, specifically those that require post-processing, exposing the seam can be necessary for the post-print processing. To do so, you can adjust the following settings:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;None:&lt;/strong&gt; The seam will remain on the Z-seam alignment location.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Hide seam:&lt;/strong&gt; The seam will be hidden as much as possible.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Expose seam:&lt;/strong&gt; The seam will be exposed as much as possible.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Hide or expose:&lt;/strong&gt; The seam will be hidden when possible and exposed when there is no other option.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In your setting, you have &amp;quot;None&amp;quot;. You may need to set it to &amp;quot;Hide seam&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23193" LastActivityDate="2021-03-01T22:17:57.327" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15778" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15776" CreationDate="2021-03-02T11:31:52.617" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is a &lt;a href=&quot;https://support.ultimaker.com/hc/en-us/articles/360012512340-Shell-settings&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Cura option&lt;/a&gt; to choose a random seam alignment in the shell menu:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/I6UXi.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/I6UXi.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Z-seam alignment&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This setting allows you to choose where each new layer in the Z direction starts and affects where the seam of the model will be. This is useful for models with consecutive equal layers as the seam can be visible. By changing the Z-seam alignment you can decrease the visibility of the seam. The options available are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;User-specified:&lt;/strong&gt; Set a coordinate for the X and Y direction of the Z-seam. This coordinate is absolute by default. Example: X 100, Y 200 will move the seam to the center back of the model.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Shortest:&lt;/strong&gt; The next layer starts at the endpoint of the previous layer. This is the fastest way of printing, but also creates the most visible seam.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Random:&lt;/strong&gt; The next layer starts at a random point of the previous layer, which eliminates the chance of a seam. Print time will increase due to the necessary travel moves.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Sharpest corner:&lt;/strong&gt; This puts the seam in the sharpest inward or outward corner of the model, when available. This is the best method to completely hide the seam.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2021-03-02T13:55:25.280" LastActivityDate="2021-03-02T13:55:25.280" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15780" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15775" CreationDate="2021-03-02T15:35:33.833" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the height of the object is larger than the free space between the gantry and the top of the first printed object, you will not be able to slice the object. The maximum printing height will reduce to the maximum available distance between the gantry rods and nozzle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that the correct &lt;code&gt;Gantry Height&lt;/code&gt; needs to be set in the printer properties. For instance, the UM3 I use has 60 mm free space between the gantry and the nozzle:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UKXlJ.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UKXlJ.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have a smaller height specified, or a taller print object os depicted in the image below, you will not be able to slice the prints (note that a 100 x100 x100 mm is scaled to 20 x20 x70 mm prints, which exceed the 60 mm):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/F9Nl4.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/F9Nl4.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When properly scaled below the 60 mm, i.e. to 20 x20 x50 mm print objects, you'll see that you are able to slice the objects:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XH5ZI.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XH5ZI.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Slice preview:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ihjdb.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ihjdb.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2021-03-02T15:35:33.833" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15781" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15757" CreationDate="2021-03-02T20:37:44.303" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Regarding the second question: &amp;quot;Can I get 3D model of Mario and send that to a 3D printer?&amp;quot; meaning successful print, the answer depends on the model and the printer. Basically you can send any model to print, but each technology has its limitations of quality, size, physics. For figurines, resin printers (SLA or DLP technologies) seem best choice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Printed figurines would be non-movable and empty inside (to some extent), unless are specifically designed as mechanical toys. I think this is the key difference between mechanical movement ability and modern 3d object animations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you already noticed, the mesh files could be reused here or there. So static objects like furniture pieces could be suitable for both purposes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26170" LastActivityDate="2021-03-02T20:37:44.303" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15783" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15776" CreationDate="2021-03-03T03:41:45.053" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Use Cura's &amp;quot;Vase Mode&amp;quot; (known as &lt;code&gt;Spiralize Outer Contour&lt;/code&gt;) for seamless printing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27141" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-03-03T21:56:51.173" LastActivityDate="2021-03-03T21:56:51.173" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15785" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15788" CreationDate="2021-03-03T16:50:57.653" Score="2" ViewCount="4504" Body="&lt;p&gt;I needed to know if typical UV curing resins, such as the ones from Anycubic, can withstand solar radiation over extended periods of time with little to no degradation. It has been quite difficult to find information about the subject online, so I'm wondering whether anyone here has experience here to share.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27148" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2021-03-03T21:23:36.270" LastActivityDate="2021-03-05T13:32:28.067" Title="UV degradation of UV curable resins" Tags="|resin|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15786" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15785" CreationDate="2021-03-03T17:14:39.777" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sunlight contains the full spectrum of electromagnetic radiation, including the wavelength to photoinitiate your resin. Most UV-curable materials are kept in opaque containers for this reason. The extent to which your material is crosslinked will depend on your material and how much sunlight it receives.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4922" LastActivityDate="2021-03-03T17:14:39.777" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15787" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15785" CreationDate="2021-03-03T17:52:21.593" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;What seems to be a difficulty is the stabilizers for plastic absorb UV.  So if added to UV resin, they probably greatly increase the exposure time needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The following show characteristics of some plastics, taken from &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.coleparmer.com/tech-article/uv-properties-of-plastics&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.coleparmer.com/tech-article/uv-properties-of-plastics&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unmodified types of plastics that are regarded as having unacceptable resistance to UV are POM (Acetal), PC, ABS and PA6/6. Other plastics such as PET, PP, HDPE, PA12, PA11, PA6, PES, PPO, PBT and PPO are regarded as fair. Note that a PC/ABS alloy is also graded as fair. Good resistance to ultraviolet rays can be achieved from polymers extruded by Zeus such as PTFE, PVDF, FEP, and PEEKTM. The only plastics found with excellent resistance are the imides, Polyimide (PI) as used in the Hubble Space Telescope and Polyetherimide (PEI).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PTFE has particularly good UV resistance because of its very strong carbon- fluorine (C-F) bond [almost 30% higher than the carbon-hydrogen (C-H) bond], which is the common side bond that surrounds the carbon (C-C) backbone in a helix and protects it. Most fluoropolymers also do not have the light absorbing chromophore impurities in their structure that can act as an initiator for photo-oxidation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15075" LastEditorUserId="15075" LastEditDate="2021-03-03T19:30:30.080" LastActivityDate="2021-03-03T19:30:30.080" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15788" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15785" CreationDate="2021-03-03T18:02:17.130" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, it is actually pretty hard to find that information. First thing is that the resin never stops curing. Additional exposure to UV will continue to degrade the material over time. This is true of even plastics (and human flesh), however, in the case of UV resins we're talking about years not weeks. Each manufacturer of resin, even from different batches, will exhibit different performance characteristics with their formulation. As a general rule of thumb resin prints should not be used as an end product. They are used to either create a mould for the final object or used as a fitness test where the dimensions and tolerances are tight. The cured resin is typically not 100% safe to handle, and as such should not be used on bare skin or inside the human body or as any form of eating or cooking utensil. Colour degradation of resins (they become cloudy) will also occur for resins that were once colourless.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: (Didn't want to expand this but it seems I have to) Companies that release 3d printed with branded resins have custom formulas to match their printers. This is perhaps to ensure that the customer keeps coming back for the consumables. These custom formulations are most undoubtedly patented, however, it seems that they are keeping the formula a secret (until you reproduce it and they claim you've breached their patent). Due to the fact that the formula is unknown to the end-user no one can certify that the cured resin is 100% non-toxic and safe for contact with skin; either on the outside of the body or the inside ;) Speciality dental adhesives have different formulas (and are perhaps more expensive than) 3d printing resins.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12857" LastEditorUserId="12857" LastEditDate="2021-03-05T13:32:28.067" LastActivityDate="2021-03-05T13:32:28.067" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15789" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15768" CreationDate="2021-03-03T19:10:28.560" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The picture of the line types and the accompanying comment helps to clear this up:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;they are &amp;quot;Travel&amp;quot; lines, but why material is printed during travel?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, the dark blue is travel. But if material is deposited during them, then that is not &lt;em&gt;printing&lt;/em&gt;, that is material oozing out of the nozzle - which is called stringing most often. Usually, this is an issue with retraction: your length is possibly a little short. However, retraction also only is turned on for moves over a given length, so there might be no retraction happening. And, in Cura support structure generally is printed without retraction due to toggle &lt;code&gt;Limit Support Retractions&lt;/code&gt;. Toggling that off can help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might also turn on one of the two &lt;em&gt;Avoid&lt;/em&gt; modes in the movement (&lt;code&gt;Avoid Printed Parts when Traveling&lt;/code&gt; &amp;amp; &lt;code&gt;Avoid Supports When Traveling&lt;/code&gt;) to get the movement paths in a way so they don't go over the model and prevent any stringing/oozing onto it or knocking off delicate parts. Possibly increasing retraction a little might help, and so might &lt;code&gt;Z-hop&lt;/code&gt; to try to &amp;quot;rip&amp;quot; the strings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2021-03-05T16:37:29.913" LastActivityDate="2021-03-05T16:37:29.913" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15790" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15776" CreationDate="2021-03-04T00:02:11.550" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;A bulging seam is caused by a mix of factors, especially:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Material oozing while dwelling too long at the point of layer change (including the time spent in the Z move). This can be mitigated by ramping up the max Z speed and acceleration and/or enabling retract at layer change &lt;em&gt;with a very fast retract and unretract speed&lt;/em&gt; (without doing it very fast, the time spent retracting has the same effect as the time spent on Z move).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Excess extrusion due to pressure remaining at the nozzle when decelerating. This can be mitigated by enabling Linear Advance and tuning the K factor for your printer's bowden tube and material properties. A value around 0.5 is probably needed for PLA on your printer. Increasing your acceleration limit to reduce the time spent accelerating/decelerating can also go a long way to mitigate this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastEditorUserId="11157" LastEditDate="2021-03-07T23:02:48.550" LastActivityDate="2021-03-07T23:02:48.550" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15791" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15699" CreationDate="2021-03-04T03:15:15.743" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;octopus8 recommended doing a series of tests to determine the cause of the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I started with moving the bed by hand (remember to have machine off or choose &amp;quot;Disable steppers&amp;quot; from &amp;quot;Prepare&amp;quot; menu) and the movement was relatively smooth with some resistance, the same as when moving the X-axis.  If you move very slowly you can feel slight, small &amp;quot;steps&amp;quot;, this is normal. The movement was consistent across the range of movement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since this did not indicate a problem, I moved on to checking the drive belt and the bearing wheels.  The belt had a small amount of slack which I tightened.  Several of the wheels under the bed slipped against the rail they run along.  I tightened these.  This improved the movement of a couple of them but a couple still slipped a bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After this I did not have the problem anymore.  For 10+ prints over a week or so, there was no incorrect Y-axis movement and &amp;quot;Auto home&amp;quot; always worked. Nevertheless I continued with the next test suggestion which was to send some simple gcode to the printer via USB.  I used both Ultimaker Cura 4.8.0's Monitor mode as well as [sending the commands from the linux terminal][1].  I sent the commands&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;G28 &#xA;G0 F&amp;lt;speed&amp;gt; &#xA;G0 X200 Y0 &#xA;G0 X200 Y200 &#xA;G0 X0 Y200 &#xA;G0 X0 Y0&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;with values of 900,1800,2700,3600 and 4500 for  and everytime the print head returned to the same place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is evidence that the tightening of the belt and wheels likely fixed the problem.&#xA;[1]: &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/3112/how-to-directly-send-g-code-to-printer-from-a-linux-terminal&quot;&gt;How to directly send G-code to printer from a Linux terminal?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26949" LastActivityDate="2021-03-04T03:15:15.743" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15792" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15772" CreationDate="2021-03-04T09:21:31.013" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The first photo shows under extrusion. This could indicate either a bad filament, a massive clog or the wrong filament diameter in the slicer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have experienced, that small demo-reels of filament that come with printers come damaged from the shipping: I have experienced some of them having been exposed to moisture in their zip-lock bags and one time I had no clue what kind of filament that was supposed to be, but it was not PLA, as it didn't properly melt at 200 °C. That might not be the case with your printer, but it leads me to caution towards those 20 g demo reels, so I always test with a known good reel of filament with a known melting point. If it was the wrong material (e.g. ABS), under extrusion due to a too low temperature would be normal. Damaged or bad filament can create several problems: non-uniform thickness can result in random stops in the extruder or underextrusion, waterlogged (&amp;quot;wet&amp;quot;) filament can print stringy, hissing, or even with underextrusion, brittle filament might break and result in aborted lines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A clog in the nozzle could lead to under extrusion but should also show clicking in the extruder (the motor moving the filament). Checking the whole filament path (nozzle, heat break, liner &amp;amp; Bowden tube) for clogs should be done. However, that would be a massive clog to get your depicted prints. It might be a factor impacting it though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sometimes, setting up a printer in a slicer is not perfect: You need to make sure the filament diameter fits! 1.75 mm might be the &lt;em&gt;de facto&lt;/em&gt; standard, but most slicers are set up with 2.75 mm as filament diameter in the presets for a self-configured printer! That means you only extrude about a third of the filament you actually want! That would be super consistent with your picture but doesn't need to be the only factor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2021-03-04T10:38:54.297" LastActivityDate="2021-03-04T10:38:54.297" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15794" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15772" CreationDate="2021-03-04T13:37:32.400" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;0scar and Trish both had correct solutions to my problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;0scar suggested that I clean the nozzle, which I thought I had because the needle that came with the printer was able to slide through the hot end and out the nozzle without any issue. Turns out the hot end was clogged though. This particular hot end has a bowden tube that's separate from the actual bowden tube connected to the extruder gear, and that separate tube was clogged.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.imgur.com/AOlT9nf.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.imgur.com/AOlT9nf.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;bowden tube clogged&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Trish was correct about the slicing profile being incorrect and that the problem was under extrusion. The filament provided by Sunlu with the printer seems to be fine. I let the printer run for 25 minutes and only had a slight issue with the filament on the spool not being tight enough when printing the raft. I'm currently running another print and haven't had any issues -- only 15 minutes in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway, here's the 25 minutes print I was referring to (in the bottom left there's a glob of PLA because that's where the nozzle was when I stopped the print):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.imgur.com/PRCyb40.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.imgur.com/PRCyb40.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;successful print&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27121" LastEditorUserId="27121" LastEditDate="2021-03-04T14:31:06.013" LastActivityDate="2021-03-04T14:31:06.013" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15796" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16359" CreationDate="2021-03-04T22:52:14.840" Score="3" ViewCount="4896" Body="&lt;p&gt;I decided to finally purchase an Ender 3 v2. It arrived today and after a few hours of making sure everything is straight, I tried to power it and do a test print...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was disappointed to see that the screen stays black after more than 10 seconds from power on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did not insert any SD card in the printer or anything that could interfere with the presumably stock firmware on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because of this, I opened up the power source and the motherboard case and checked the voltages/checked LEDs. The motherboard blue led is on, the power source green led is on as well. I did a few measurements - I get 24 V to the motherboard with a small spike of 35 V when it starts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The hotend fan is always on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I checked the display connection and I am sure it is placed correctly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried to upload firmware onto the mainboard first by clearing the SD card (8 GB given by Creality) using &lt;code&gt;diskpart&lt;/code&gt;. I wrote the 4.2.2 (same as motherboard version) firmware version (stock) onto the SD attempting to upload on the mainboard. I tried renaming it, unplugging the power cable, unplugging the screen cable, etc and nothing would work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried rewriting the &lt;code&gt;DWIN_SET&lt;/code&gt; files but the screen would not turn to black/blue/orange colors. I tried &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.reddit.com/r/ender3/comments/j04s40/how_to_fix_the_ender_3_v2_firmware_upgrade_black/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;more or less everything suggested here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there anything I didn't do? What do you suggest? I already contacted the company where I bought it from, but I don't want to go through the assembly process twice - maybe I can make it work?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The correct voltage for the power supply is set at 230 V (Europe) and was set to this all the time. I tried switching it back and forth without power too. No result.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I've contacted the supplier yesterday.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27179" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-03-20T07:27:05.487" LastActivityDate="2021-05-25T18:15:08.663" Title="Screen stays black on new Ender 3 V2 after power-on" Tags="|creality-ender-3|troubleshooting|firmware|maintenance|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15797" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15804" CreationDate="2021-03-05T05:02:39.900" Score="2" ViewCount="3289" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had the BLTouch (3.1) working with stock firmware on an Ender 3 v2 but wanted to get a 5x5 mesh instead of the 3x3 so I installed the TH3D firmware. With the stock firmware my Z-offset was -2.95 mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After installing TH3D firmware, my Z-offset has to be in excess of -6 mm to reach the same nozzle-to-bed height. I've tried setting the Z-offset via LCD and through G-code, saving to EEPROM. I'm having 2 problems with this that I assume are connected:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Z-offset seems to not be applied when setting Z axis position. When I autohome and then set Z axis to 0, even the extended probe from the BLTouch does not touch the bed (it's actually 1-2 mm away from touching). And this is with the Z-offset set to -6 mm.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I tried running a print, which includes an ABL request (&lt;code&gt;G29&lt;/code&gt;), the print head crashed into the bed immediately after finishing levelling. My hunch is that when starting to print the -6 mm Z-offset starts being correctly taken into account.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could this be the result of something I did in the Configuration.h when compiling the firmware?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I made the following changes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/th3dstudio/UnifiedFirmware/blob/2.0.x/Board%20Configuration%20Files/CrealityV42X/Firmware/Marlin/Configuration.h&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;CrealityV42X/Firmware/Marlin/Configuration.h&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Line 24: uncommented &lt;code&gt;#define ENDER3_V2_V422_BOARD&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Line 43: uncommented &lt;code&gt;#define CUSTOM_PROBE&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Line 66: changed &lt;code&gt;#define EZABL_POINTS&lt;/code&gt; from 3 to 5&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Line 124: changed &lt;code&gt;#define NOZZLE_TO_PROBE_OFFSET&lt;/code&gt; from &lt;code&gt;{ 10, 10, 0}&lt;/code&gt; to &lt;code&gt;{ -44, -6, 0 }&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Line 233: uncommented &lt;code&gt;#define BLTOUCH&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Line 235: uncommented &lt;code&gt;#define SERVO0_PIN PB0&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Line 636: commented out &lt;code&gt;#define Z_MIN_PROBE_USES_Z_MIN_ENDSTOP_PIN&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Line 636: added &lt;code&gt;#define USE_PROBE_FOR_Z_HOMING&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/th3dstudio/UnifiedFirmware/blob/2.0.x/Firmware/Marlin/Configuration_backend.h&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Configuration_backend.h&lt;/a&gt; the only change I made was increasing &lt;code&gt;Z_PROBE_OFFSET_RANGE_MIN&lt;/code&gt; from -5 to -20.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27181" LastEditorUserId="27181" LastEditDate="2021-03-05T15:34:13.787" LastActivityDate="2023-05-11T10:18:18.300" Title="Z offset not working after flashing TH3D firmware" Tags="|creality-ender-3|bltouch|th3d|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15798" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15667" CreationDate="2021-03-05T08:14:09.273" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Usually, steppers not working can be found when the lines are broken. Often this is an unplugged Stepper, but OP checked that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That 3 steppers at once failed could indicate a bad firmware update, which OP didn't do. So it is sadly a case of blue smoke from the board. Most likely the stepper drivers are either shortened out or get no signal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am sorry, but replacement seems necessary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2021-04-17T16:52:10.367" LastActivityDate="2021-04-17T16:52:10.367" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15799" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15814" CreationDate="2021-03-05T19:24:51.967" Score="4" ViewCount="26683" Body="&lt;p&gt;I made two updates to my Ender 3 Pro: Silent Mainboard and BLTouch.  My printer head is way out of sync now. After I Auto Home, it moves along the X-axis to the left, hits the stop switch &amp;amp; moves back to the right. It does not move at all on the Z-axis and remains 3 - 4&amp;quot; above the bed during and after Auto Homing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's the detail :&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I installed a Creality Ender 3 Pro New Upgrade Motherboard Silent Mainboard V4.2.7 with TMC2225 Driver Marlin 2.0.1 &amp;amp; bootloader pre-installed &amp;amp; then a Creality BLTouch 3D Printer Upgraded Auto Bed Leveling Sensor Kit (the kit that comes from Creality with everything you need to install). I imagine I attempted too many upgrades without verifying the printer worked properly when I did the first upgrade which was the mainboard?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I purchased this Ender 3 Pro back in April 2020. It was working great until I decided to make the upgrades. I assume it came with an 8-bit board but not 100% sure. The new board is 32-bit and not sure what that would negatively impact besides maybe the LCD screen which does work fine after the upgrade.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a video of the printer attempting to Auto Home :  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/X9S4rvv4lyA?start=0&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Note: Disregard the unhooked cable under the printer bed in the video.  It is totally disconnected and leftover from the BLTouch install.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's how I did the upgrade :&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, I simply replaced the new mainboard, and with the mainboard cover and fan back in place, I powered the printer on. The only thing I did here was to verify that the printer would power up ok.&#xA;It powered up just fine. The nozzle head did not move I don't think when powered on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next, I followed the instructions for the BLTouch that came with the kit.  I followed the instructions for the Creality V1 Mainboard 32-bit. Here, I upgraded the firmware via an SD card as suggested. The firmware I upgraded to is the &lt;code&gt;Ender-3 Pro_4.2.7_BLTouch_Marlin2.0.1_V1.1.2_TMC2225.bin&lt;/code&gt;.&#xA;Finally, I powered on the printer with the BLTouch plugged in and new firmware installed. The BLTouch lights up and the touch sensor clicks out and in and few times.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, when I hit auto home the nozzle head moves like I described above &amp;amp; remains in a position that I can not attempt to print from. I attempted to follow step #6 Platform adjustment 32-bit, working through the screenshots in the instructions.  This did not work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If helpful, here are the positions of the nozzle head during the two upgrades :&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Position of the print head before install: 3-4 inches above the bed and maybe a little off-center on the X-axis.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Position after install mainboard upgrade: remained the same as before.  I just remember it powering on ok and then I turned it off / unplugged power to start installing the BLTouch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Position after install of BLTouch: remained the same. BLTouch lights up and the sensor tip moved in and out as if it was checking something or verifying it was working.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm a bit lost on this issue. Any help will be greatly appreciated!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm using 3D4LYF's wiring scheme as I'm using the same set up I believe he is using. The two wires (white &amp;amp; black) on the red connector go in the Z-axis endstop port on the mainboard. For the three wires on the black connector I have: blue=Ground, red=V, yellow=IN that goes in the other 5 pin port on the mainboard. I rearranged the wiring from red/blue/yellow to blue/red/yellow as suggested by 3D4LYF again because I am using the BLTouch Creality Kit. Adding photos of 5-pin port and the connectors:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cjHJv.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cjHJv.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LAtyD.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LAtyD.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25913" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-03-07T21:34:36.700" LastActivityDate="2021-12-07T01:06:59.487" Title="Ender 3 Pro will not auto home correctly after mainboard &amp; BLTouch upgrades" Tags="|creality-ender-3|bltouch|creality|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15800" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-03-05T20:29:49.770" Score="0" ViewCount="416" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;TL;DR&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I moved the printer head slightly without turning off the system and now only the Z-axis stepper motors work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I recently purchased an Ender 5 Plus. I managed to get three prints done and then one print went bad. The nozzle scraped against the glass plate (causing me to have to replace the nozzle). For some reason my home coordinates changed and caused the plate to eventually press all the way against the nozzle. During this my BLTouch also bent and needs to be replaced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The big problem now is that none of the motors are working (except for the Z-axis steppers). I had an air headed moment and moved the printer head while the machine was on (but not printing). Now the BLTouch is static red and only the Z-axis motors works. I've tried every bit of advice I could find. Any chance anyone has a possible solution?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27191" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2021-03-05T22:38:23.900" LastActivityDate="2021-03-05T22:38:23.900" Title="Not moving on X and Y axis" Tags="|stepper|creality-ender-5|creality|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15801" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-03-05T23:37:39.153" Score="0" ViewCount="178" Body="&lt;p&gt;I got this printer literally yesterday, at first it was fine but after a few test XYZ cube prints it started making a breaking noise when the Z axis moves down! Please see the video!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/B10pZ2r1ie0?start=0&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm about to return it, but thought maybe I have misconfigured something!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not 100 % sure where exactly the noise is coming from, the motor itself or the connection of the pole with the bed!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note this only happens when the z axis is moving down, the other way around it is fine!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also this might be helpful: &lt;strong&gt;it stops making the noise&lt;/strong&gt; when it is 2/3 of the way down then it becomes smooth!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27197" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-03-06T00:01:17.347" LastActivityDate="2021-03-06T00:01:17.347" Title="Ender 5 Pro - Breaking sound when z axis moves down (away from hotend)" Tags="|z-axis|bltouch|motor|creality-ender-5|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15802" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15760" CreationDate="2021-03-06T03:14:46.133" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;One way to have two E-steppers to do the same work should be to enable &lt;code&gt;MIXING_EXTRUDER&lt;/code&gt; in &lt;code&gt;Configuration.h&lt;/code&gt;. I have no experience in this myself, but it is a good starting point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A second way is to actually connect the two &lt;em&gt;identical&lt;/em&gt; steppers in parallel. That trick is sometimes used for Z-steppers. I don't expect the current consumption to be an issue. This will require soldering, unless your mainboard has two Z-stepper outputs and you only use one of them. Then move connectors and reconfigure pins.h (or similar file) to use the correct steppers for &lt;code&gt;Z&lt;/code&gt; and &lt;code&gt;E&lt;/code&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A third way is possible if your mainboard has removable stepper driver modules. Remove the &lt;code&gt;E1&lt;/code&gt; stepper driver from the socket and cut off the &lt;code&gt;EN&lt;/code&gt;, &lt;code&gt;DIR&lt;/code&gt; and &lt;code&gt;STEP&lt;/code&gt; pins. Solder thin but insulated wires between the solder-pads on this one to the &lt;code&gt;E0&lt;/code&gt; stepper. These are all inputs, so now the second stepper will follow the first perfectly. Soldering shall be done while the stepper driver modules are removed, otherwise the heat might ruin the sockets. (There are more precautions)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26869" LastActivityDate="2021-03-06T03:14:46.133" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15803" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-03-06T05:01:19.493" Score="2" ViewCount="519" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been using an Anycubic i3 Mega for about a month now and it worked fine. But when I designed a simple model in Fusion 360 and sliced it with Cura it started to have issues sticking to the bed. I thought the problem was the model so I tried to print a Benchy, but the same problem occurred. I readjusted the bed but it's still not working. I'm not sure how I can trouble shoot this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27200" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-03-06T10:43:14.667" LastActivityDate="2021-03-08T20:05:30.663" Title="Prints fail to adhere to build plate" Tags="|adhesion|anycubic-i3-mega|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15804" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15797" CreationDate="2021-03-06T05:07:48.127" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm pretty sure something is wrong with the firmware I downloaded. I flashed the 3/5/21 version of Marlin firmware from &lt;a href=&quot;https://marlin.crc.id.au/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://marlin.crc.id.au/&lt;/a&gt; and it is somehow working better with the LCD firmware (which I got from TH3D), the Z offset is working as it should, and the leveling process has more points and goes faster.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27181" LastActivityDate="2021-03-06T05:07:48.127" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15805" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15803" CreationDate="2021-03-06T10:03:06.843" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The proper answer could be not related to Fusion, as you already noticed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suppose the issue is that the Ultrabase surface (or any other glass surface you have installed) was &lt;strong&gt;not cleaned during the first month&lt;/strong&gt;? So it should be cleaned from grease and possibly dust. The general cleaning method is to use isopropyl alcohol (IPA) from time to time (btw. I am curious if it is advised in a printer's manual). If it does not fully help, I suppose using a dish soap with hot water prior to IPA is good step. Though I do not own this bed, so could not be 100 % sure of impact. (Definitely do not use any extra adhesion helpers for Ultrabed, because it has some specific microstructure which will get stuffed.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could want review other threads like this &lt;a href=&quot;/q/15327/&quot;&gt;How to get Sunlu PLA to adhere to the printing bed?&lt;/a&gt; to get other hints and supplement your checklist. One thing to check first (and regularly) is proper bed levelling at current moment - and compare to initial layer settings in Cura (thickness, width, flow percentage).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26170" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-03-06T10:50:39.450" LastActivityDate="2021-03-06T10:50:39.450" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15806" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15807" CreationDate="2021-03-06T11:28:04.237" Score="5" ViewCount="1392" Body="&lt;p&gt;Comparing trends show that 3D printing stepped over to another level around 2012~2013. Why?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9tFj9.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9tFj9.png&quot; alt=&quot;3D printing vs 3D scanning&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/N488f.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/N488f.png&quot; alt=&quot;3D printer vs 3D scanner&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11091" LastEditorUserId="4922" LastEditDate="2021-03-06T19:18:28.280" LastActivityDate="2021-03-25T06:53:32.603" Title="What happened around 2012~2013 in 3D printing field" Tags="|history|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15807" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15806" CreationDate="2021-03-06T13:00:43.043" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;A great story on the history of 3D printing is published by &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.3dsourced.com/guides/history-of-3d-printing/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;3DSOURCED&lt;/a&gt;. It shows that the patents for FDM and SLA expired a few years earlier and the &lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/wiki/RepRap&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;RepRap&lt;/a&gt; 3D printer self replicating project became very popular. Also, 3D printer manufacturers emerged and electronics, software and parts became available at a larger scale, so that it was more affordable for a hobbyist to dive in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-03-06T16:02:42.950" LastActivityDate="2021-03-06T16:02:42.950" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15808" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-03-06T21:44:42.007" Score="1" ViewCount="533" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently installed Marlin 1.1.9.1 onto my Creality CR-10S. After doing so, the temperatures for both the bed and hotend now read -14 °C. I have changed the setting in the Marlin &lt;code&gt;configurations.h&lt;/code&gt; to several different thermistors, and it either reads 0 or -14 °C.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have now installed several different versions of Marlin and with each one I experience the same problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there some tuning setting that I am missing or has installing the firmware somehow fried something on my board?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27210" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-03-06T23:18:28.123" LastActivityDate="2021-03-07T01:41:55.780" Title="Printer thermistors read completely wrong after changing firmware" Tags="|marlin|firmware|creality-cr-10|thermistor|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15810" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15808" CreationDate="2021-03-06T22:43:27.873" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Okay, to anyone who is looking at this post, I am an idiot. I have spent the last 4 or more hours sifting through youtube videos and forum posts to figure out this problem. I have reinstalled firmware modifications dozens of times. All of this, to just now discover that I never had the bed or hotend cables connected. That's right, I never even considered the fact that I had yet to plug in those cables after transporting my printer to a new location.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't be like me. Check the simplest solutions first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27210" LastActivityDate="2021-03-06T22:43:27.873" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15811" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-03-07T05:20:56.823" Score="2" ViewCount="540" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm just getting started in 3D printing by rebuilding an old machine from scratch updating firmware etc. It is all wired up and I am calibrating and completing tuning before a first print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am having a weird problem in that when I click &amp;quot;home X&amp;quot; button in Pronterface, my dual Z axes steppers move in the +Z direction and crash. If I home Z via Pronterface, the Z-axis behaves correctly (moves in -Z direction until it bumps off the limit switch). I am using an MKS GEN L V1.0 board and Marlin v1.1.9&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I move thr Z-axis via Pronterface in the +Z direction, it moves as expected. Both Y and X axes also seem to work okay and respond to commands normally via Pronterface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sending a &lt;code&gt;G28 X&lt;/code&gt; command also results in a Z-axis activation and crash.&#xA;Sending a &lt;code&gt;G28 Y&lt;/code&gt; command has the same result.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas on how to resolve this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27215" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-03-07T08:09:58.893" LastActivityDate="2021-04-06T22:05:55.570" Title="Issue crashing Z-axis when I home X or Y axes" Tags="|homing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15812" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15811" CreationDate="2021-03-07T15:18:37.723" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Found the issue with help here! My Z-axis homing height was not set - I set it to 4 mm but found that the Z movement is way off (actual Z movement is more like 15 cm!).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I will update to the latest firmware as suggested.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27215" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-03-07T22:00:26.780" LastActivityDate="2021-03-07T22:00:26.780" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15814" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15799" CreationDate="2021-03-08T00:17:17.363" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Resolved : connected the white &amp;amp; black wires to the 5 pin output on the board.  This solved the homing issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25913" LastActivityDate="2021-03-08T00:17:17.363" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15815" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-03-08T05:46:33.910" Score="5" ViewCount="1639" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to be able to run my Chiron during night-time, but my neighbours tries to sleep at that time of day. I have put a lot of effort into making the printer silent. The controller-fan and power-supply-fan now run slower and only when needed, I have put the printer on those &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3225296&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;damper feet&lt;/a&gt; found on Thingiverse, I have added rods to stabilize the gantry and I have switched to TMC2209 for X, Y and Z. I have made sure the TMCs are tuned for 24V and are using 'stealth chop' below 225 rpm (120 mm/s). The result is impressive compared to how noisy the printer was when I bought it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One problem was not solved, when Y-axis moves at between 35 and 45 mm/s, the printer starts to loudly vibrate at 220 to 280 Hz. To mitigate that, I first tried to slow down printing, but then print quality was hurt by oozing. Now I have reverted back to my desired print speed, but limited Y-axis feed-rate in Marlin to 32 mm/s using &lt;code&gt;M203 Y 32&lt;/code&gt;. It is quiet enough, but many movements are slowed down, affecting quality.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What can I do to stop or mute these vibrations?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;ADDED 2021-03-30&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;I have no proper accelerometer, so I used a MPU6050 accelerometer and some code in an ESP8266. It samples roughly 400 times per second and gives a vibration-value that can be used to &lt;em&gt;estimate&lt;/em&gt; the level of vibrations. It is not frequency-compensated, but gives a hint of what is happening. And it can be used to compare settings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also made a program based on an example in TMCStepper so I could run the stepper and see/change all settings. This program also relays the measurements from my accelerometer so I can make graphs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To do this I removed the stepper from the chassis, as I need to be somewhat quiet when doing these tests. It looks like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MSc3m.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MSc3m.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;picture of stepper motor with accelerometer tucked between motor and console&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This graph sums up my findings pretty well:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5OYRE.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5OYRE.png&quot; alt=&quot;graph comparing stealthchop, spreadcycle and the old A4988&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;X-axis shows motor-speed in full steps per second, fsps. fsps corresponds to the frequency of the noises I want to conceal. 200 fsps = 1 revolution per second = 60 rpm. On Chiron Y-axis 60 rpm = 32 mm/s = F1920.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Y-axis is shown with the scale log10(accelerometer values).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are the TMC-settings I used during the tests, which are same/or close to what Marlin use for 24V Chiron:&#xA;(TPWMTHRS was set to 0 when I tested StealthChop)&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bclvk.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bclvk.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I read from this chart (and my many measurements):&#xA;TMC2209 is much quieter below 120 fsps.&#xA;StealthChop is fantastic at low speeds.&#xA;StealthChop shall ONLY be used at really low speeds in a 3D printer. If at all, since switching mode also is noisy.&#xA;SpreadCycle use 256 usteps/fstep. A4988 use 16 usteps/fstep. I think that is the reason for TMC to be more quiet at low speeds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What I do not understand:&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;Why is TMC2209 seems to be more loud at higher speeds. It might make different vibrations that my makeshift accelerometer rates worse, of course. But can I have a defective TMC2209? Or are the BigTreeTech boards bad? Or have I got fake TMC2209 with worse performance?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26869" LastEditorUserId="4922" LastEditDate="2021-04-21T13:48:06.717" LastActivityDate="2021-04-21T13:48:06.717" Title="Noise cancelling Chiron Y-axis" Tags="|bigtreetech|anycubic-chiron|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15816" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15820" CreationDate="2021-03-08T05:49:16.207" Score="2" ViewCount="1335" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am building a 3D printer from scratch, the bed will only move on Z and the head will stay at the top of the printer and move X and Y.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do I modify the Marlin firmware to have the bed lower as it prints instead of lift like most printers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27229" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-03-08T08:44:42.733" LastActivityDate="2021-03-08T14:40:05.593" Title="How to setup Marlin to use a moving bed (up-down)?" Tags="|marlin|z-axis|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15817" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15803" CreationDate="2021-03-08T06:47:44.530" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Keeping the print bed clean as mention in other answers is key. Dish soap (without any additives) and water to wash away oils from your hands the printer itself is the first step. Isopropyl Alcohol (IPA) is also good to keep the bed clean between prints, but when you run into adhesion problems, wash with soap first. IPA in many cases just move the oils around the bed instead of removing them. Also, always wipe from the centre of your bed to the outside.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The next step is to also ensure the bed is level (unless you have auto-levelling). If the bed is level, then you need to make sure your z-offset is correct. The first layer must be printed with the nozzle low enough to press the first layer into an oval shape onto the bed so that the surface area in contact with the bed is increased. If the z-offset is too high the first layer filament is going to have a round shape which means the printer is basically printing in the air.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Be careful not to decrease the z-offset too drastically because the nozzle should never come in contact with the bed because damage to the bed, nozzle or heat-break is possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BOXXV.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BOXXV.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://cults3d.com/en/blog/articles/6-main-factors-for-perfect-first-layer-3d-printing&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Image source&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7470" LastActivityDate="2021-03-08T06:47:44.530" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15818" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15815" CreationDate="2021-03-08T09:17:20.970" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Have you tried a concrete tile for garden with foam below it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.cnckitchen.com/blog/reduce-your-3d-printing-noise-with-a-concrete-paver&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.cnckitchen.com/blog/reduce-your-3d-printing-noise-with-a-concrete-paver&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The same is on&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/y08v6PY_7ak?start=0&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Frequencies at 200+ Hz should not get to the neighbours, the walls and floor will absorb them. Lower frequencies are transmitted much more (see the video).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Try that, it's super cheap, and if not enough let us know for further help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2338" LastActivityDate="2021-03-08T09:17:20.970" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15819" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15816" CreationDate="2021-03-08T10:10:07.270" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;To understand normal commands from a basic printer slicer, all movement commands in g-code are written to be away from the base layer as positive. Note that &lt;em&gt;technically&lt;/em&gt; a &amp;quot;lower the bed&amp;quot; printer does violate Orthonormal coordinates unless you either swap X and Y while retaining 0 in the front-left corner or put 0 in the front-right corner, going left for +X (e.g. inverting that motor axis too) and back for -Y.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Hardware&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To &lt;em&gt;invert&lt;/em&gt; the movement direction of an axis without rewriting the firmware there are two main ways, from mos invasive to easiest:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mount the actuator &amp;quot;upside-down&amp;quot; as that flips the rotational normal vector.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;use a left-hand-threaded rod and nut. This does not flip rotation but how rotation affects the bed.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;alter the stepper cables by &amp;quot;crossing&amp;quot; one of the phases leads. The motor rotates reversed to its commands now.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/miZU6.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/miZU6.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Firmware&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In Marlin, you can also just flip the direction of the motor via &lt;code&gt;configuration.h&lt;/code&gt; by altering the line from &lt;code&gt;false&lt;/code&gt; to &lt;code&gt;true&lt;/code&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#define INVERT_Z_DIR true&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2021-03-08T14:40:05.593" LastActivityDate="2021-03-08T14:40:05.593" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15820" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15816" CreationDate="2021-03-08T10:30:26.477" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can control in Marlin what the direction of the stepper motor is, e.g. my Hypercube CoreXY printer (which has a similar setup like you described) has the following set (in the Marlin &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/blob/2.0.x/Marlin/Configuration.h&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;code&gt;Configuration.h&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/a&gt; file) to ensure the platform raises when it has to decrease height:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;// Invert the stepper direction. Change (or reverse the motor connector) &#xA;// if an axis goes the wrong way.&#xA;#define INVERT_Z_DIR true&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Furthermore, it matters where the Z endstop is located, e.g. using a bed probe sensor or a min Z endstop, you need to home towards a decreasing height (in the direction of your probe/endstop):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;// Direction of endstops when homing; 1=MAX, -1=MIN&#xA;#define Z_HOME_DIR -1&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't forget to set a max Z height that falls within the printer volume, e.g.:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#define Z_MAX_POS 345&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the bed is heavy, you should also prevent the steppers to lose power when not being used, so at least set Z to &lt;code&gt;false&lt;/code&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;// Disables axis stepper immediately when it's not being used.&#xA;// WARNING: When motors turn off there is a chance of losing position accuracy!&#xA;#define DISABLE_Z false&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-03-08T12:47:36.770" LastActivityDate="2021-03-08T12:47:36.770" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15821" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15673" CreationDate="2021-03-08T14:06:39.220" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The skew correction works in X/Y axis while bed screws helps you correct the ax axis. Since they don’t work in the same axis, I don’t see why they would interfere with each other.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27225" LastActivityDate="2021-03-08T14:06:39.220" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15822" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15439" CreationDate="2021-03-08T14:10:22.950" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Thanks to Input Shaper, you can print faster, sometimes to the point of reaching your speed limit on the max nozzle flow speed. At that point, if all speeds are hitting that threshold without any changes in quality, you could print every part at the same maximum speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27225" LastActivityDate="2021-03-08T14:10:22.950" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15823" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15439" CreationDate="2021-03-08T14:21:48.727" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Lowering speed on outer perimeter has always been mostly wrong, but possibly useful. Usually, it's a poor approximation for what you really want to do, which is lowering &lt;em&gt;acceleration&lt;/em&gt; on the outer perimeter, to avoid surface quality and dimensional accuracy errors due to ringing and backlash. However, on bowden printers without compensation for pressure (&amp;quot;linear advance&amp;quot; in Marlin, aka &amp;quot;pressure advance&amp;quot; in some other firmware), slow acceleration and high speeds give really bad error in extrusion consistency, so you're better off just lowering the max speed too whenever you lower acceleration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's also possible that you may want to print at extremely high speeds for inner walls and infill - speeds so high that you get a lot of extrusion consistency problems. If so, it would make sense to retain a sensible max speed on the outer wall. This won't avoid the part strength problems from printing too fast, but if your models are just decorative, it might be worth it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Generally, though, I'd recommend solving these problems right (using linear advance if your printer needs it, lowering outer perimeter acceleration to get rid of artifacts, printing at a speed your hotend can handle, etc.) and deem &amp;quot;slower outer perimeter&amp;quot; an idea whose time has passed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, note that if you're using a bowden printer &lt;em&gt;without&lt;/em&gt; linear advance, sticking to the &lt;em&gt;same speed&lt;/em&gt; for all extrusion will largely paper over the problem. This is probably the source of your observation that it &amp;quot;improves print quality&amp;quot; for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2021-03-08T14:21:48.727" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15824" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15815" CreationDate="2021-03-08T14:22:18.533" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I noticed that my TMC drivers make a loud KLANK sound when switching from stealthchop to spreadcycle. The solution is to keep the in stealthchop at all time by butting the threshold really high (I set mine to 1000 mm/s). You may also look for resonance in your frame. If you’re using Klipper, you can use input Shaper with an accelerometer to lower ringing, it will improve your print ans make your printer quieter at the same time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27225" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-03-08T15:07:40.703" LastActivityDate="2021-03-08T15:07:40.703" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15825" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15815" CreationDate="2021-03-08T14:53:19.380" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since you have already invested in reducing the noise of you printer:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Move it away from the wall shared with your neighbor, or better a different room.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Reduce sound transmitted through the floor. Set the printer on some type of isolation table.  This can be from an elaborate marble table to some type of homemade setup.  You can put cushioning under the printer.  The heavier the furniture the better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Add an acoustical barrier to the wall, from a blanket to shaped acoustical foam.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Invest in noise cancelling equipment.  Some are as low as $50.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15075" LastEditorUserId="15075" LastEditDate="2021-03-08T15:13:10.123" LastActivityDate="2021-03-08T15:13:10.123" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15827" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15839" CreationDate="2021-03-08T17:38:25.180" Score="3" ViewCount="429" Body="&lt;p&gt;This one is turning out to be a real head-scratcher. I'm running a stock Creality CR-10S and there seems to be a single line approx 45° across the print on the X-axis direction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have attached images to better explain. Any help would be greatly appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iI07T.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iI07T.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WwS7x.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WwS7x.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wUoGh.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wUoGh.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CFAyf.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CFAyf.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vtaYD.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vtaYD.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27239" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-03-08T21:41:30.667" LastActivityDate="2021-03-10T17:09:51.653" Title="Strange vertical lines on X-axis direction of parts" Tags="|print-quality|fdm|creality-cr-10|x-axis|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15828" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15803" CreationDate="2021-03-08T20:05:30.663" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A &amp;quot;hack&amp;quot; I used was to print with a raft. I decreased the width of the raft in Cura so I'm not printing with excess plastic and the raft ensures my print always sticks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another thing to look at is to look at the print speed, a slightly slower speed might help with the build plate adhesion. This is something I noticed from printing with a raft&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For reference, I print with a glass bed and the plastic failed to adhere to the bed even after washing it and using sanitizer to clean it off. IPA is the real deal though but I didn't give it a try.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26857" LastActivityDate="2021-03-08T20:05:30.663" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15829" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7683" CreationDate="2021-03-09T00:12:29.717" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had this problem and thought I'd put my solution here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The nozzle (at least my nozzle) is not actually an 0.4 mm nozzle. You can tell just by comparing it side by side to another one. Mine seems to be a 0.3 mm nozzle, despite being sold as 0.4 mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once I set the &lt;code&gt;Path Width&lt;/code&gt; in FlashPrint to 0.3 mm, my thumping noise (extruder skipping) and subsequent under-extrusion were &lt;strong&gt;completely gone&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27243" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2021-03-09T01:47:15.320" LastActivityDate="2021-03-09T01:47:15.320" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15830" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-03-09T03:27:56.833" Score="4" ViewCount="188" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I print at the end when it is done the prints are lighter than they should, and they are thin enough that I can scrape the bottom away.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My second problem is that my filament gets stuck on the support rods and stops the filament from coming through the extruder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And the final problem I have is when the bottom of my prints get stuck and won't come off and I need to learn how to clean it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(The bed can come off and my printer is an Ender 3 Pro)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27245" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2023-06-10T15:34:17.303" LastActivityDate="2023-06-10T15:34:17.303" Title="Issues with printing and removing filament residue" Tags="|creality-ender-3|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15832" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-03-09T11:21:18.720" Score="0" ViewCount="611" Body="&lt;p&gt;My TronXY X1 runs on Repetier firmware. My Ender 3 runs on Marlin firmware.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found that apparently code in Marlin style does not always create good prints on a Repetier machine, under extruding in some key areas - but that might also be setting dependant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, simple fix in the slicer by setting it to the correct style, but:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What differences are in the style of the basic commands between Marlin and Repetier?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2021-03-09T15:47:46.433" LastActivityDate="2021-03-09T15:47:46.433" Title="Marlin v. Repetier G-code flavor" Tags="|marlin|firmware|repetier|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15833" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15247" CreationDate="2021-03-09T14:51:22.253" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Mine came from the factory tight enough that it doesn't sag at all, but not so tight that it feels hard or stiff or difficult to deflect a bit with gentle pressure. With the bed pushed all the way to the back, I can push the y-axis belt to the side about 1/8&amp;quot; with gentle pressure, and it feels like that's about as far as it's going to go even if I were to push harder. Seems to work really well without a lot of unnecessary force.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1690" LastEditorUserId="1690" LastEditDate="2021-03-09T14:59:51.683" LastActivityDate="2021-03-09T14:59:51.683" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15835" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15392" CreationDate="2021-03-10T07:57:57.663" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Am I doing something wrong? Did I destroy the &amp;quot;Carborundum&amp;quot; coating (silicon carbide) of the glass plate?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I doubt it. Silicon carbide is tough stuff: it's a 9.5 on the Mohs hardness scale, just half a notch below diamond. They make router bits and end mills and the teeth of table saw blades out of it, and people clean all of those with much stronger solvents than isopropyl alcohol. I don't know what other ingredients Creality uses in their carborundum coating or whether they might be susceptible to solvents, but I'd be surprised if the alcohol you used did any real damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I cleaned the bed with IPA. The microfiber towel was yellowish afterward - so I thought that this must have been printing residues. Since then every print is kind of &amp;quot;welded&amp;quot; to the bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had a similar experience, except that I cleaned with acetone instead of alcohol. My impression, too, is that the yellow stuff is some sort of residue left by PLA. If you print the same object several times in the same spot on the bed, you can begin to see a slightly shiny footprint of the object on the bed. You'll eventually notice a loss of adhesion in that spot, and the bed will feel a bit slick there. A small amount of acetone on a paper towel removes the footprint entirely, but you end up with a yellow spot on the towel that doesn't appear if you use the same procedure in a spot where there's been no printing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've also had object stick so strongly to the bed that they seem like they won't ever come off, and I think it's just a sign that a clean carborundum bed does its job very well. The best way to get them off, at least for me, is to apply a liberal dose of patience. I usually want to remove the part right away, but I find that if I let the bed cool down even to 50 °C, it's much easier to pop the part off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update:&lt;/strong&gt; With the carborundum bed, adhesion is very sensitive to the height of the nozzle above the bed. If you have the bed set a bit too close to the nozzle, the PLA seems to really smoosh into the bed and grab on making the print hard to remove. If the bed is set lower, the PLA lines sit on top and don't smoosh in at all, and you don't get enough adhesion. There's a sweet spot in between the two, where the print sticks well enough that it takes a little effort to remove, but pops off with some coaxing. For me, using a sheet of printer paper as a gauge, it's about where I can feel the vibrations of the fan through the paper, but just barely, and the paper still slides easily between nozzle and bed. Your results may be different depending on the paper you use. Another way to tell you're on the right track is that the individual lines in the skirt should fuse together, but you want to be close to the point where they don't.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1690" LastEditorUserId="1690" LastEditDate="2021-03-11T15:02:44.890" LastActivityDate="2021-03-11T15:02:44.890" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15836" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13466" CreationDate="2021-03-10T12:58:49.373" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is highly relevant: PETG is very resistant to Ozone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.plasticsintl.com/chemical-resistance-chart&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.plasticsintl.com/chemical-resistance-chart&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27268" LastEditorUserId="360" LastEditDate="2021-09-13T02:00:02.467" LastActivityDate="2021-09-13T02:00:02.467" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15838" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15392" CreationDate="2021-03-10T16:56:07.320" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have had similar issues, and I have learned three tricks:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Some slicers (i.e. Cura) let you specify the height of your first layer, and I have found that slowly incrementing up from 0.16 mm by 0.2 mm to find the sweet spot of adhesion without warping. Every brand/type is different. But, usually, for me, fall between 0.18-0.22 mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Blue painters tape. If you don't need the glass flat finish of printing directly to glass, I always use blue tape. It makes for great adhesion, and also easy removal of super stuck prints, and you can just peel it off the build plate. With blue tape, I tend to add 2-3 °C to the bed temp.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Glue sticks (instead of hairspray). But, Elmer's glue sticks that go on purple and dry clear. When you use these, if a print is stuck, you just need to spritz some water around the print. The print and the glue will wick the water under the print, and reconstitute the glue. Once the glue is tacky again, the print will pop right off. The only downside is a slight texture to the print and not glossy glass flat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason I like the colored glue, as it reconstitutes it activates the cobalt chloride and turns purple again. This is great for knowing when it is good to start printing again. And also tends to become less of a sticky mess than hairspray.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="24954" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-03-10T17:18:13.467" LastActivityDate="2021-03-10T17:18:13.467" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15839" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15827" CreationDate="2021-03-10T17:09:51.653" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In your slicer check your z-seam overlap. Lines like that are what happens when a slicer is systematically trying to hide a seam while not adding a ton of time onto the print by adding in a bunch of additional time for travel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="24954" LastActivityDate="2021-03-10T17:09:51.653" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15840" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-03-11T05:07:13.857" Score="1" ViewCount="1373" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have the Creality CR-10S. I replaced the glass it originally came with as it was warped and I wasn't getting any material out on 2 of the sides.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I switched to a PEI sheet and got the same results after only a few prints.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I then switched to a mirror I had cut previously, and it worked for maybe 2 days. I scrapped a print off that warped, and then the leveling was off on that. My gantry is level, my beds aren't warped, I'm leveling it to allow a standard piece of paper to have friction by the head. It's either to close and no filament is extruded or it doesn't stick at all and drags filament everywhere. If I can get good extrusion on one side, it's horrible off on the other or all corners.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Note that I have checked my gantry and it is straight as well and my the bed. Not sure what issues I have left.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27276" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-03-12T09:36:40.230" LastActivityDate="2021-12-07T16:05:30.507" Title="Bed is leveled and not warped but still uneven printing?" Tags="|bed-leveling|extrusion|creality-cr-10|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15842" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-03-11T09:56:25.923" Score="1" ViewCount="735" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got a new heatbed. The current heatbed has a screw in the middle of the bed with some kind of thermal paste (feels like silicone). Somebody on reddit said that it is very unlikely silicone, because the curing process of silicone corrodes the electronics. But what is it and should I use just normal CPU thermal paste?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26618" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-03-11T23:15:07.880" LastActivityDate="2021-03-11T23:15:07.880" Title="What kind of thermal paste do I need for a heatbed thermistor?" Tags="|repair|creality|creality-cr-6|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15843" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-03-11T19:00:46.407" Score="4" ViewCount="3188" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm still fairly new to 3D printing; got my Ender 3 V2 for Christmas last year. Recently the tension arm in the stock extruder snapped, so I bought and installed an all-aluminum replacement. My first successful(ish) print since installing it lasted two to three hours before I noticed the filament wasn't feeding. It had softened and clogged the lead-in to the Bowden tube just past the tooth gear. I figure the problem comes from (and what probably broke the original plastic) heat buildup; the new aluminum frame was VERY hot to the touch. I also noticed that the extruder motor was rather hot as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So you all know where I am: all I've printed with is PLA at 195 °C. Since changing extruders, I was getting over extrusion and dropped it to 185 °C and increased the retraction from 5 mm to 6.5 mm. The new one doesn't have (easily) adjustable tension, but the tension felt as strong as I had it on my old one, so I left it alone. I currently print within an enclosure, one of Creality's foil-lined ones since my printer is located in the garage (this is more for dust, but for longer prints I felt it was good to have since at the time it was getting very cold at night in the garage).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't think it's heat creep, since that meant it went all the way up the Bowden tube. My first guess is the ambient heat inside the enclosure. I am currently trying a new print with the top and side openings folded up to allow airflow. But I welcome more experienced suggestions and input.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Additional info&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think I was getting away with the low temperature (185 °C) because my printing enclosure held heat so well. I'm attempting to print outside the enclosure today to start removing variables to my problem, if it under-extrudes, I'll bump the temperature up again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please note that I replaced &lt;em&gt;just the frame&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wouldn't know how to adjust the voltage [of the Z-stepper] if indeed the [pre-set factory calibration is incorrect and causing the stepper to heat up]. The new tension arm is a bit tighter than I had it set on my old, but I can't imagine it's making enough resistance to overwork the motor without seeing other issues first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I didn't see any signs of Heat Creep when I pulled out the filament. The only softening I saw was in the direct drive; it had been pushed into a conical shape that plugged the port into the Bowden just past the gears. I'm still leaning towards an issue with the direct drive (is that what it's called? still learning the terms). the aluminum was too hot to touch and I had to wait 10 minutes before I could safely depress the tensioner and pull the filament out. That or the motor is overheating trying to pull Filament through.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The motor driving the filament is on the opposite side of the Teflon tube, mounted to the vertical frame - it is &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; on the nozzle side of the Teflon tube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27282" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2021-05-28T03:53:03.387" LastActivityDate="2021-11-20T01:12:26.897" Title="Ender 3 V2 Extruder getting hot" Tags="|creality-ender-3|extruder|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15844" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15842" CreationDate="2021-03-11T19:16:31.510" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you need it to hold the thermistor in place, there are thermally conductive electrically insulating potting compounds, such as Appli-Thane® 7300 Urethane that have a temperature range of -100 to 160 °C.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The newest CPU thermal pastes contain silver particles and will conduct electricity. So, it needs to stay away from leads and pads that don't want to be shorted&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15075" LastActivityDate="2021-03-11T19:16:31.510" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15845" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11787" CreationDate="2021-03-11T19:44:27.890" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have had the exact same problem on my Ender 3 Pro. I fixed it by adjusting the amount of pressure on the filament by the motor. I did replace the motor too for other problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27284" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-03-11T23:05:31.680" LastActivityDate="2021-03-11T23:05:31.680" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15846" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15843" CreationDate="2021-03-11T19:52:53.317" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could still get heat creep with a Bowden tube.  It has different characteristics.  Instead of jamming up in the direct drive, the filament can melt too far upwards into the heat break where it can refreeze and jam.  The characteristic, if you can pull out the filament, is widened filament extending into the heat break.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/15732/air-printing-jamming-midway-through-raft-creation/15738#15738&quot;&gt;Air printing/jamming midway through raft creation&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/15629/understanding-all-the-ways-to-avoid-heat-creep&quot;&gt;What are ways to avoid heat creep?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Adding fans to an enclosure improves the temperature control in the enclosure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15075" LastEditorUserId="15075" LastEditDate="2021-05-28T09:43:31.253" LastActivityDate="2021-05-28T09:43:31.253" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15847" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15848" CreationDate="2021-03-11T22:43:48.540" Score="4" ViewCount="1438" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm new to the 3D printing world but I've been using some of the 3D printers at my local library, and am now interested in purchasing my own! One thing that's important for my projects is being able to use variable layer thickness (for example, the first 50 layers are 0.3 mm, the next 50 are 0.1 mm, and the last 50 layers are 0.3 mm).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know the Prusa printers can do this, but I've been trying to understand whether the Creality Ender 3 allows you to use variable layer thickness. Unfortunately, I can't seem to find this information online so I would like to ask here!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27286" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-03-11T23:07:09.980" LastActivityDate="2021-03-13T14:20:29.013" Title="Does the Creality Ender 3 allow variable layer thickness?" Tags="|creality-ender-3|slicing|layer-height|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15848" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15847" CreationDate="2021-03-11T23:13:09.403" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Variable layer height is a setting of the slicer, not an ability of the printer itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, the printer must be able to print at such layer heights. Any FDM (Fused deposition modeling&#xA;) or FFF (fused filament fabrication) printer, which is the type you describe in the question, is able to print at 0.1 to 0.3 mm with at least a 0.4 mm nozzle diameter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is also notion of optimal layer heights. Optimal hight depend on full steps of Z motor correlated with a leadscrew type. It is especially important when microstepping for Z is disabled or when printer disconnects a Z motor during long printing of single layer, otherwise positioning may get imprecise. &lt;a href=&quot;https://blog.prusaprinters.org/calculator_3416/#optimallayer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Prusa calculator&lt;/a&gt; helps to determine these values. For 8 mm/revolution lead of screw (standard T8 in Ender 3) the step for optimal heights would be 0.04 mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="26170" LastEditDate="2021-03-13T14:20:29.013" LastActivityDate="2021-03-13T14:20:29.013" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15851" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15840" CreationDate="2021-03-12T11:20:04.980" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Be sure that you have no previous bed meshes saved and automatically applied: use the commands M502, M500.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you have done that, try this technique:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/0j9fa86jiv0?start=0&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's about using a ruler to detect areas which are lower, and then use stickers below the glass to thicken those areas only, resulting in a much flatter surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't want to use the blue tape (which will worsen the heat transfer, but not so much after all) you could use 0.3 mm silicone thermal tape, which is more heat conductive but it's also quite thicker than blue tape.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This other alternative consists of flattening the plate itself, but it's inevitably performed when cold, while the tape technique above can be performed at the desired temperature (since the warping may not be constant).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/IJRdOCfPtm8?start=0&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2338" LastEditorUserId="2338" LastEditDate="2021-03-12T15:28:08.690" LastActivityDate="2021-03-12T15:28:08.690" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15855" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-03-13T15:52:34.330" Score="3" ViewCount="7343" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just received my new Ender 3 v2. When using the Auto Home feature, the Y-axis motor drives the bed as far back as possible then the motor grinds for about 10-15 seconds. The Y-axis limit switch is not being depressed and the limit stop is about .5 inches away from the switch. The control unit locks at this point and must be power cycled to regain control. If I manually depress the limit switch then it appears to act normally.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Clearly either the limit switch is way out of adjustment or the bed is not positioned properly. Can this be fixed or should I send it back as defective?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27314" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-03-13T22:30:49.307" LastActivityDate="2023-04-01T20:29:01.453" Title="Y-axis limit switch adjustment is way off on new Ender 3 V2 causing motor grinding noise and system lockup" Tags="|y-axis|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15856" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15740" CreationDate="2021-03-13T16:30:12.153" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I figured it out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Feed rate, in general, is the speed of a single print move, from point A to point B. It is specified with every &lt;a href=&quot;https://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/G000-G001.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;G1 command&lt;/a&gt; that commands a move. Setting the feed rate on the printer console will scale the feed rate of every move the printer makes. The Cura &amp;quot;Print speed&amp;quot; setting is used as a basis to set the print speed (Feed rate) of different line types. Eg. Infil is 100% of this speed, walls are 50% of this speed, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are several other settings that will make Cura will decide not to use the speed that you set.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Minimum layer time. In my case, this prevented the walls of the calibration cube from reaching the maximum speed. They were slowed down until so that each layer took at least 10 seconds.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lines that overhangs are scaled to a percentage of what they would normally print at.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bridge speed settings are found in the experimental settings, and if enabled they will override the speed for bridges.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition, the printer's acceleration setting may prevent it from reaching the maximum speed. You can see this if you issue this command during printing:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;M201 X50 Y50 ; Set max acceleration&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The print will slow down a lot until you set it back to the default. The printer will accelerate and decelerate slowly and simply never reach the maximum speed over short distances. The default in the Marlin firmware (for Ender) seems to be:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;M201 X500 Y500 ; Set max acceleration&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26997" LastActivityDate="2021-03-13T16:30:12.153" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15857" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15866" CreationDate="2021-03-13T18:16:21.717" Score="1" ViewCount="749" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I was thinking of using a closed-loop motor in my 3D printer for better accuracy and high-speed printing without losing steps. I have analyzed options available including just tweaking stepper current and firmware changes to prevent step losses but I want to find the best way to do it with encoders. The problem is I need a pretty high resolution for a 3d printer and usually, high-resolution servo motors use potentiometers that are limited and not suitable for a 3d printer. I am thinking of building my own closed-loop continuous rotation servo using stepper/DC motors and encoders but I can't find any high-resolution encoder at a reasonable price. So is there any way to somehow use low-resolution encoders (like 36 pulse every full turn) or is there any encoder type that I can use for better accuracy at a reasonable price other than optical ones? Also is there any other solution for closed-loop systems at a reasonable price?&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Note that I am aware that I may need to modify firmware or write my own code for motors and program them from scratch.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;Note:&lt;/strong&gt; You might consider this question &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/12087/closed-loop-stepper-motors&quot;&gt;Closed-loop stepper motors&lt;/a&gt; a possible duplicate but I have read that and my main problem is not being able to find any cheap high-resolution encoder for this purpose.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Also for some reason, I can't use products like BTT S42B closed-loop stepper drives, my only option is to build them myself.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;TL;DR:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Is there any type of encoder with high resolution and cheap price for use in 3D printers? (I don't mean brand, I mean technology)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23146" LastActivityDate="2021-03-15T12:03:21.427" Title="What is the best way to build a closed loop continuous rotation servo for 3D printer?" Tags="|resolution|closed-loop|servo|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15858" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15857" CreationDate="2021-03-13T22:46:14.420" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The gearbox approach is solid, but it will be 100x slower, and you said you wanted speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7916" LastActivityDate="2021-03-13T22:46:14.420" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15859" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15864" CreationDate="2021-03-14T06:32:03.637" Score="1" ViewCount="50" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I was thinking about is it possible to reach higher resolutions with encoders and DC motors? I found a cheap high-resolution magnetic encoder that can be used along with a DC motor to access higher resolutions. The encoder has 8192 PPR meaning that it can measure up to 0.04 degrees if I have correctly calculated. So if for a stepper with 0.9 step angle and no micro-stepping with 20 tooth pulley and 2mm belt, the steps/mm is 10, it means every 9 degrees with this pulley and belt setup makes 1mm and so 0.04 degree makes 0.004mm movement that is about 4 microns. Is this correct and possible? If so, why don't big companies use this method?&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Link to the encoder:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.rls.si/eng/rmb20-rotary-magnetic-module&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;RLS RMB20 rotary magnetic encoder module&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23146" LastEditorUserId="23146" LastEditDate="2021-03-14T06:37:21.330" LastActivityDate="2021-03-15T02:14:33.760" Title="Is it possible to get higher resolutions by using high resolution encoders and custom firmware?" Tags="|resolution|closed-loop|servo|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15860" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10888" CreationDate="2021-03-14T06:35:11.983" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The other answers on this thread seem kind of hand-wavy, so I'll give my input.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At its simplest, all we're dealing with here is two different formats of encoding the same data. The 3D file is identical, just described by the file data in different terms.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That being said, there is a multitude of different reasons that 3D prints can fail. Fusion 360 is notorious for having issues with slicers because of fillets, lofts, smooth-curvy type patterns, or intersecting planes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Binary is a smaller encoding. It almost always works for me. ASCII has never failed me as a backup when binary did.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27325" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-03-14T17:16:34.713" LastActivityDate="2021-03-14T17:16:34.713" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15861" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-03-14T11:22:48.400" Score="-1" ViewCount="62" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm curious what is the technology category for this 3D scanner device:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/gSPlAW44bXQ?start=0&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does the device fit into any technology category &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/3D_scanning#Technology&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;listed by Wikipedia&lt;/a&gt;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could it be &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Structured-light_3D_scanner&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;structured light&lt;/a&gt; approach?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11091" LastEditorUserId="11091" LastEditDate="2021-03-15T14:14:04.933" LastActivityDate="2021-03-15T20:38:29.347" Title="Identify 3D scan technolgoy" Tags="|scanning|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15862" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15855" CreationDate="2021-03-14T20:04:11.933" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is possible that the &lt;strong&gt;buildplate is too low&lt;/strong&gt;, and cannot travel all way down  the Y axis, but is hitting into the Y motor enclosure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have screwed the Z-stop to printer's vertical frame, shifting the endstop all the way down, there is even bigger chance for this. So one advice is to &lt;strong&gt;raise the Z-stop&lt;/strong&gt; by about a width of wrench key included to the set. Ender 3 V2 has a bit taller glass plate comparing to previous model.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That is not my idea, I just repeat that after the author of &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/JTN6jtB5mqk?t=2071&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&amp;quot;Tomb of 3D Printed Horrors&amp;quot; youtube tutorials&lt;/a&gt;. The author also presented quick method &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4JSa_r8xgX8&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Ender 3 easy bed leveling&lt;/a&gt;, including &lt;strong&gt;fine tuning&lt;/strong&gt; of the Z-stop position.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please also note, that there are wires with thermistor taped below the bed with crackling tape (probably capton). So if you raise it too few, you will regularly hear scraping and crackling sounds. Therefore before builtplate leveling, I would advice first to &lt;strong&gt;check the initial height&lt;/strong&gt; if it is already safe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26170" LastActivityDate="2021-03-14T20:04:11.933" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15863" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-03-14T20:56:29.137" Score="3" ViewCount="414" Body="&lt;p&gt;I uploaded a 3D object for &lt;a href=&quot;https://lerdagiovanni.wixsite.com/kauda/stl-files&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this project&lt;/a&gt; to Fusion 360 and printed it out straightforward:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BLeFU.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BLeFU.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yet its middle hole is too small for the stepper motor (&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.omc-stepperonline.com/nema-17-stepper-motor/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Nema 17 Stepper-M&lt;/a&gt;) I am using so I wanted to increase its tolerance before reprinting it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, I followed the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SigAE7GG9vs&amp;amp;ab_channel=TylerBeckofTech%26Espresso&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;tutorial by Tyler Beck of Tech&lt;/a&gt; who lead me to drawings:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0Z3YX.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0Z3YX.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was wondering if doing a drawing (sketch in Fusion 360) was sufficient to expect the shaft of the step motor to go through?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are the gear and the shaft before I add the drawing constraints:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/arA1s.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/arA1s.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wpxT3.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wpxT3.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27334" LastEditorUserId="7470" LastEditDate="2021-03-25T06:37:17.490" LastActivityDate="2021-03-25T10:55:32.870" Title="Are Fusion 360 drawings sufficient to design and enforce tolerance in a hole of a solid?" Tags="|fusion360|dimensional-accuracy|press-fit|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15864" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15859" CreationDate="2021-03-15T02:14:33.760" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The mistake in your reasoning is assuming no microstepping. Most 3D printers use 16 microsteps, and in my experience with both cheap A4988 drivers and nice TMC2209 drivers, microstepping is quite accurate. As part of &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/12075/11157&quot;&gt;an answer to a question I asked&lt;/a&gt;, you can see a test print showing single-microstep features. My motors have 1.8° step angle, yielding 3200 steps per rotation at 16 microsteps, or 12.5 microns of linear movement per microstep. With 0.9° step angle you could get it down to half that, and you could probably halve it again going to 32 microsteps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even if you can't get it as good as your 4 microns with stepper motors though, at 12.5 micron positioning resolution you're already to the point where extrusion error is going to play a much bigger role in dimensional accuracy than toolhead positioning error does. Going past that with FDM requires high resolution extruder axis movement, closed-loop control with a precise filament diameter sensor, direct drive with minimal distance between the extruder gear and nozzle, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2021-03-15T02:14:33.760" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15865" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5579" CreationDate="2021-03-15T07:43:17.310" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I mounted four 10 W resistors under the bed and connected them in parallel to the SKR1.4 board, I installed in the mini.&#xA;If you still have the original board, you can connect the resistors to any power source with enough power to drive the load, preferably 24 V.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27338" LastEditorUserId="27338" LastEditDate="2021-07-23T15:39:21.397" LastActivityDate="2021-07-23T15:39:21.397" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15866" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15857" CreationDate="2021-03-15T09:05:14.483" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can use a magnetic position encoder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://ams.com/as0548b&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;AS5048B High Resolution Position Sensor&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;14-bit rotary position sensor with digital angle (interface) and PWM output&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;14 bit means 16k steps/rotation. With a stepper which does 200 steps/rotation and 16x microstepping, you will need only 11 bit, so you have plenty of extra accuracy you can use to filter noise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may use &lt;a href=&quot;https://ams.com/as5600&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;AS5600 Positioning Sensor&lt;/a&gt; instead, which is 12 bits, since you don't need to track each microsteps in a closed loop, 4x is enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;AS5600 in PWM mode does up to 920 Hz, AS5048 1 kHz. I'm not sure in I2C mode but surely more. Of course you have to take into account delay between measuring the position and transmission of the position.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2338" LastEditorUserId="26170" LastEditDate="2021-03-15T12:03:21.427" LastActivityDate="2021-03-15T12:03:21.427" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15868" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-03-15T19:02:23.567" Score="3" ViewCount="1160" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm using Cura and it removes my holes and deletes sections of the print and disconnects parts. In Blender it looks as it should be, as I designed it. I know there are a few mishaps inside (not manifold) but is there a way to fill in everything on the inside. I only care about the externally facing faces. This is extremely infuriating I hope someone can tell me how to force Cura to print what is originally seen in the .stl.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vhECG.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vhECG.png&quot; alt=&quot;Blender as it should look&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/spmc4.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/spmc4.png&quot; alt=&quot;Again how I designed it.&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/R5IEQ.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/R5IEQ.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XhOsa.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XhOsa.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These are photos of how it should look.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now these next photos are how Cura previews it. Not only does it fill in the holes (no, fill holes isn't enabled) it adds huge gaps in the side and bottom of the print as can be seen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nhQv4.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nhQv4.png&quot; alt=&quot;All messed up.&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/H1eTp.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/H1eTp.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Q51Me.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Q51Me.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I force Cura to print what I see in blender in the original .stl?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am exporting in Blender to .stl and opening that in Cura.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was able to fix it partially by fixing normals in Blender but there is still this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Rjk38.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Rjk38.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lFOfR.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lFOfR.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wPoMg.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wPoMg.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Z2Uuy.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Z2Uuy.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27353" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-03-15T22:12:34.087" LastActivityDate="2021-03-16T22:37:00.590" Title="Cura messes up my print. How can I make it print what I see in Blender?" Tags="|creality-ender-3|ultimaker-cura|3d-design|slicing|stl|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15869" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15868" CreationDate="2021-03-15T19:45:35.467" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's common for modeling software to flip normals, causing what you describe. You said,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I only care about the externally facing faces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But are you sure they are truly externally facing? Turn on normals in Blender and ensure that all the arrows/pointers are external.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another problem that can generate the results you're seeing are self-intersecting surfaces, non-manifold edges, and a couple others that are explained in a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.3dhubs.com/knowledge-base/fixing-most-common-stl-file-errors/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;3dhubs article.&lt;/a&gt; Correcting those problems involve a bit more examination and trouble shooting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The slicing software prefers to have clean, well defined triangular surfaces in order to create a print file. When something is amiss, you get results you've presented.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With the STL in hand, I opened it in Meshmixer (free) and immediately was given a clue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oITba.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oITba.png&quot; alt=&quot;STL image in meshmixer&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The zebra-stripes are reversed normals.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's another error point, difficult to see clearly in flat 2D image, but panning and zooming and orbiting and all those 3D manipulating things shows there's nothing there:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FrtCK.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FrtCK.png&quot; alt=&quot;broken corner&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other end of this not-joined area shows a bit better:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IH41m.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IH41m.png&quot; alt=&quot;other broken corner&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After selecting all I could find/locate, I did the reverse normals and here's a slightly improved result:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GcpRG.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GcpRG.png&quot; alt=&quot;corrected part&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately, the other borked up portions prevented meshmixer from performing a suitable auto-repair, completely destroying the model in the process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Those joint corners and any other colored lines have to be addressed individually.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastEditorUserId="854" LastEditDate="2021-03-15T20:50:02.953" LastActivityDate="2021-03-15T20:50:02.953" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15870" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15861" CreationDate="2021-03-15T20:38:29.347" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;That's not Structured light, it is a camera. The camera makes a series of photos - one with each flash. Then, the photos are stitched to create a 3D model using a code that is similar to one I was shown in an informatics class in my uni once:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the software identifies structures that are identical.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;By tracking the difference between the pictures, distances away from the camera between the different photos are estimated. As a result, several passes in different angles give us a complete 3D scan.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Motion of the scanner probably is included in the metadata, allowing to calculate the angles more precisely.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, it's &lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Photogrammetry&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Photogrammetry&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastActivityDate="2021-03-15T20:38:29.347" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15871" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15868" CreationDate="2021-03-15T21:11:17.863" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Rhino gives the following output for &lt;code&gt;MeshRepair&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mesh has 3 degenerate faces. (a face that's actually a line or a point)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mesh has 42 non manifold edges. (a line where 3 or more faces meet, possibly caused by degenerate faces)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mesh has 6 duplicate faces. (faces that share the same coordinates)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mesh has 148 naked edges (edges that have only one face)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All of these things are indicators that it might be difficult to distinguish inside from outside.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/x89lO.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/x89lO.png&quot; alt=&quot;Naked edges&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have encountered these problems after changing a model a lot during it's lifetime (adding/removing stuff). Since there are 200 errors and it's a relatively simple model, I advice you to fix these kind of problems by starting with a new clean model, using some of the coordinates of the old model as reference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also: be sure to check out &lt;a href=&quot;https://daler.github.io/blender-for-3d-printing/printing/3d-print-toolbox.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;blender's 3d printing wiki&lt;/a&gt;, they seem to have quite some tools similar to rhino's meshrepair&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27354" LastActivityDate="2021-03-15T21:11:17.863" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15872" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-03-15T22:15:14.960" Score="0" ViewCount="28" Body="&lt;p&gt;The board is BTT SKR v1.1.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;I know the board is connected with COM3. I get the Avrdude 500 timeout.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;I am using VS Code, and am close, but need to know exactly what changes to make in config/adv.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27351" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-03-16T10:15:10.007" LastActivityDate="2021-03-16T13:32:36.833" Title="Able to compile, but not upload" Tags="|troubleshooting|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15873" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-03-16T02:28:30.623" Score="2" ViewCount="741" Body="&lt;p&gt;Prusa MK3 heatbed power cable shorted out (on the Einsy side) and it looks like I need to replace the Einsy. Should I replace the heatbed too? I don’t know electronics well and am worried I will just fry a new Einsy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Heatbed end:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1pA7t.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Heatbed end&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1pA7t.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Heatbed end&quot; title=&quot;Heatbed end&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Crispy at RAMBo end:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rWn8V.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Crispy at RAMBo end&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rWn8V.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Crispy at RAMBo end&quot; title=&quot;Crispy at RAMBo end&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Crispy at RAMBo end:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4Ot8Z.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Crispy at RAMBo end&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4Ot8Z.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Crispy at RAMBo end&quot; title=&quot;Crispy at RAMBo end&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Larger images can be found &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Qt77P.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27358" LastEditorUserId="7470" LastEditDate="2021-03-25T06:37:32.050" LastActivityDate="2021-04-24T07:52:41.823" Title="Prusa MK3 heatbed shorted: replace just Einsy or heatbed too?" Tags="|prusa-i3|heated-bed|electronics|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15874" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13915" CreationDate="2021-03-16T04:28:47.360" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I’ve noticed the best way to get it smooth without support is to make the printer print the inner parts of the model first. That way it gives the hanging layer something to hold on to. I turn my window ac unit up to high aim it at the printer so it cools the filament quickly. Next you’re going to want to mess around with the extruder heat. Try to get it as low as possible but watch out for the good gooey bad gooey range. If the first overhanging layer is close to the bed turn the bed heat off. Then tinker with the flow try to get it low but not super low I go as low as 70  &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3nCLO.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27359" LastEditorUserId="27359" LastEditDate="2021-03-16T04:35:19.653" LastActivityDate="2021-03-16T04:35:19.653" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15875" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-03-16T11:10:46.617" Score="2" ViewCount="537" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an Ender 3. I want to add an emergency stop button. Ideally it’ll plug in to the printer’s micro USB port and run the &lt;code&gt;M112&lt;/code&gt;. I use default firmware and don’t plan to change it thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27363" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-03-16T12:00:31.657" LastActivityDate="2021-03-16T13:11:42.770" Title="How do I add an emergency stop button over Micro USB?" Tags="|safety|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15876" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15875" CreationDate="2021-03-16T13:11:42.770" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The most effective way to effectuate an emergency stop is to pull the plug or turn the printer off. An alternative is a software stop using a print server program like e.g. OctoPrint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Indeed &lt;a href=&quot;https://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M112.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;code&gt;M112&lt;/code&gt; is capable of stopping the printer&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;code&gt;M112&lt;/code&gt; is the fastest way to shut down the machine using a host, but it may need to wait for a space to open up in the command queue. Enable &lt;code&gt;EMERGENCY_PARSER&lt;/code&gt; for an instantaneous &lt;code&gt;M112&lt;/code&gt; command.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In order to use emergency stop functionality, you need a firmware capable of doing an emergency stop by having this enabled in the Configuration_adv.h printer configuration file, otherwise it will have to await the queue to be emptied first. I doubt if this is standard enabled in your default firmware (the Marlin default is disabled).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/blob/2.0.x/Marlin/Configuration_adv.h&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Marlin's Configuration_adv.h&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;/**&#xA; * Emergency Command Parser&#xA; *&#xA; * Add a low-level parser to intercept certain commands as they&#xA; * enter the serial receive buffer, so they cannot be blocked.&#xA; * Currently handles M108, M112, M410, M876&#xA; * NOTE: Not yet implemented for all platforms.&#xA; */&#xA;//#define EMERGENCY_PARSER&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please note that this might not be implemented; it has not been implemented for all platforms.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An earlier question &amp;quot;&lt;a href=&quot;/q/6778&quot;&gt;Can G-code scripts be run automatically on inserting an SD card when using Marlin Firmware?&lt;/a&gt;&amp;quot; has an &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/6814/&quot;&gt;answer&lt;/a&gt; that hints to changing the sources on SD card insertion. In your case the USB needs to be monitored, and it a signal is detected the printer stopped.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, since:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I use default firmware and don’t plan to change it&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;without modification of your firmware it is not possible to do what you want. But, there are perfectly viable options mentioned and available to do what you want (executing an emergency stop). Alternatively you could even use a (n Arduino powered) relay to cut the power based on the signal you want to send.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2021-03-16T13:11:42.770" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15877" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15872" CreationDate="2021-03-16T13:32:36.833" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have both the BTT SKR PRO v1.1 and the BTT SKR mini v1.1 (it is unclear which is meant by the OP), and for both you do not upload over the USB, you compile the software into a &lt;code&gt;firmware.bin&lt;/code&gt; file which you place onto the microSD card. Once you power the board, the new firmware file will be installed onto your board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2021-03-16T13:32:36.833" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15878" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-03-16T14:52:35.783" Score="1" ViewCount="271" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've upgraded my board to SKR1.4 turbo with RepRap firmware. Heated bed and heated nozzle work, but motors do not move.&#xA;OctoPrint reports them as 'no-driver-detected'.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Send: M122&#xA;...&#xA;Recv: Driver 0: position 67347, no-driver-detected&#xA;Recv: Driver 1: position 67347, no-driver-detected&#xA;Recv: Driver 2: position 67347, no-driver-detected&#xA;Recv: Driver 3: position 0, no-driver-detected&#xA;...&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried to figure out what is wrong, but did not find good documentation for this combination of hardware.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is how I setup the drivers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I removed all &lt;em&gt;four&lt;/em&gt; jumpers from the board below each driver (MS0, MS1, MS2, RST).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Plugged each driver to the board making sure that the corresponding pins match (GND to GND etc.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Checked voltage between ground pin of the board and VREF pin of the driver. The voltage was 1.365 V (same for each driver). This is a bit higher than some guides suggest, but the drivers worked perfectly with the old board.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some guides suggest modifying driver timings if the motors do not move, but I was unable to find the right timings for my drivers. What could be wrong in my setup?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27368" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-03-16T22:16:19.127" LastActivityDate="2021-03-21T16:04:57.460" Title="TMC2100 stepper motor drivers not detected on SKR 1.4 turbo with RepRap firmware" Tags="|reprap|skr-v1.4|tmc2100|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15879" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15873" CreationDate="2021-03-16T19:02:12.917" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There should be no need to replace the heat bed.  It wasn't subjected to any unusual loads.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the bed isn't heating, there could be one of sever problems, but I would start with the fuse.  If the fuse had time to do its job, it would have blown and protected the circuitry.  In your picture, the fuse is the blue component with &amp;quot;15&amp;quot; stamped on top.  There are also two fuses with &amp;quot;5&amp;quot; stamped on top.  One of these may be blown.  If so, replace it and try again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the fuses are all good, and everything except the heat bed works, you have probably blown the FET that switches the heat bed power.  If you aren't handy with circuit board repair, you may choose to get an new Einsy controller and then try to repair your old one.  These repairs aren't usually hard because the FETs are fairly large components.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2082" LastActivityDate="2021-03-16T19:02:12.917" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15880" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15868" CreationDate="2021-03-16T19:09:04.460" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Okay, so like suggested I put it into 3D Builder (A free Windows 3D modeling program). I imported it as an stl, then exported it as an stl and imported that stl into Cura. And lo and behold all problems were gone! If you are having a similar issue give that a try! The 3D Builder program and similar ones are designed to export for the sole purpose of 3D printing so it automatically fixes these issues! If this doesn't work try editing yours in edit mode (Blender) a bit so it makes it easier for 3D Builder to fix it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27353" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-03-16T22:14:44.013" LastActivityDate="2021-03-16T22:14:44.013" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15881" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15868" CreationDate="2021-03-16T22:37:00.590" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are several problems at work here:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Internal Geometry &amp;amp; unjoined parts&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CiNMC.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CiNMC.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Missing Surfaces&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/828Da.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/828Da.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Generally inverted surfaces: every surface is inside out!&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/l6wUG.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/l6wUG.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Fixing it!&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Step 1: add missing surfaces.&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Select the vertices around the hole that has no bottom surface and then pres &lt;code&gt;F&lt;/code&gt; to create a surface. Use several steps, making roughly triangle surfaces. For example: select the red marked vertices, then &lt;code&gt;F&lt;/code&gt; and then the next set.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jqM6b.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jqM6b.png&quot; alt=&quot;![enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Step 2: Internal Geometry&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's now hunt for purely internal surfaces. Select them and delete them with &lt;code&gt;Del&lt;/code&gt;, and select &lt;code&gt;Delete Face&lt;/code&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Step 3: Superflous surface geometry&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some areas have remnants from areas where you worked. Merge those vertices to prevent new artifacts from cropping up. Select the vertices, &lt;code&gt;M&lt;/code&gt; and then &lt;code&gt;collapse&lt;/code&gt; for each circle, like the red one. Some might need to be collapsed at a specific vertex to prevent surfaces from getting ripped or intersecting badly - in the lower picture the green circled one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Cs1gV.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Cs1gV.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Step 4: Normals&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Last but not least: &lt;code&gt;Alt&lt;/code&gt;+&lt;code&gt;N&lt;/code&gt; and then &lt;code&gt;Recalculate Outside&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hnHSs.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hnHSs.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Export to look for other errors...&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Everything should look much better now: The &amp;quot;checkered&amp;quot; areas are gaps are gaps in the walls... which stem from bad geometry in the big walls I selected in the lower picture.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RwOxB.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RwOxB.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/w20Qs.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/w20Qs.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, I select one of these areas - then change to vertex mode, deselect the vertex I &lt;strong&gt;don't&lt;/strong&gt; want the face to connect to (red) but the ones that should define the edge instead (green) and then press &lt;code&gt;F&lt;/code&gt; to make a new face. Then I select the old one and delete it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DqpkG.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DqpkG.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;DONE!&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Wpwy1.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Wpwy1.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6FRZJ.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6FRZJ.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastActivityDate="2021-03-16T22:37:00.590" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15882" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-03-17T08:15:47.487" Score="0" ViewCount="778" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a bizarre issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Everything was working fine until a month ago. I upgraded to RAMPS 1.6 after my 1.4 board decided it wanted to go to the big chip in the sky. I ordered a kit to replace the 1.4 and the 2560. Everything was working fine. I notice my prints are quite a bit better. I then do a complete overhaul of the printer. New rods, bearings, belts, and a new Y-axis motor. Another test print and it honestly is the best print I have ever done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What the heck, I'll add auto bed leveling. I install the BLTouch. Plug it in and no power (in my defense, I forgot about the VCC to 5 V jumper). So I find the new location of the jumper location and per every diagram I found, it is the two pins closest to the E0 motor connection. No problem. I power down, put the jumper on and...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I released the magic smoke from the 2560.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I order another 2560. I check all the connections, connectors, pinouts, crimps, and do a full assessment. Everything looks good, everything is crimped correctly, the wires are in the right positions, so I turn it on and nothing happens. Good, I unplug it and put the jumper across VCC to 5 V and...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The magic smoke monster appears again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fine, I order another 2 boards. While I am at it, I order another RAMPS 1.6. New boards arrive and I swap out the 2560, this time I use another new 1.6 board and 2560. The only wires I connect are the power wires on the ramps board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I turn the power on without the jumper. I measure voltage on VCC as 4.95 V. I confirm the 5 V pin has 0 V. I plug a jumper on VCC to 5 V again and...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another magic smoke monster...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I am thinking that it is a manufacturing issue. The only constant through the whole thing is that the 2560 boards have been from the same manufacturer. I know that this can be done as there are posts about it. I am seeking the forums opinion however. I do have 2 different 2560 boards coming.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I should also add that I dug out a spare 1.4 board, and that is working fine with the BLTouch and a new 2560 board installed albeit very slowly though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26496" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-03-17T15:01:45.170" LastActivityDate="2023-07-02T02:27:07.350" Title="RAMPS 1.6 VCC and 5 V jumper issues" Tags="|troubleshooting|ramps|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15884" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15885" CreationDate="2021-03-17T16:41:51.110" Score="3" ViewCount="1308" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can I turn off the web interface (i.e. shutting down my computer) during a print? The Raspberry is online still.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Am I correct to say that G-code has already been uploaded via WiFi to my OctoPi, and so turning off my computer now (web interface) will not disrupt the print?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26585" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-03-17T19:27:27.903" LastActivityDate="2021-03-17T19:32:57.293" Title="Can OctoPrint web interface be turned off during a print?" Tags="|octoprint|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15885" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15884" CreationDate="2021-03-17T17:44:38.533" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Assuming the OctoPrint server is running on your Raspberry Pi, which is the usual &amp;quot;OctoPi&amp;quot; setup, then yes, once you have uploaded the G-code to OctoPrint, you no longer need to leave the web interface open.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, one could upload code from their desktop running the slicing software to OctoPrint, walk to the printer to turn it on, then use a different device (a phone, for example) to connect OctoPrint to the printer and begin the print. At no point does the device accessing the web interface matter. The Raspberry Pi is in control of the printer, not the device that started the print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7384" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-03-17T19:32:57.293" LastActivityDate="2021-03-17T19:32:57.293" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15887" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-03-17T20:41:28.857" Score="3" ViewCount="476" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have just bought my own 3D printer. However, I am now reading that there may be some safety risks to 3D printing. I will be taking some precautions, such as buying an enclosed 3D printer (the FlashForge Adventurer 3), using PLA instead of ABS, and putting my 3D printer in my garage. However, I am still concerned about the possible risks. What are some other good safety tips and best practices when 3D printing? Am I doing enough, or should I do more? What have other users of 3D printers done to mitigate potential safety issues? Please let me know.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27385" LastActivityDate="2021-05-06T21:24:54.733" Title="What are some good safety tips for a 3D printing beginner?" Tags="|safety|health|flashforge-adventurer-3|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15888" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15889" CreationDate="2021-03-17T20:46:59.507" Score="2" ViewCount="195" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a &lt;a href=&quot;https://flex3drive.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Flex3Drive&lt;/a&gt; remote-direct-drive extruder I bought for my Ender 3 (with the original extruder motor), and I'm pretty happy with it except for abysmal retraction performance due to the 40:1 reduction, which requires the motor to turn about 480° to retract just 1 mm. This is minimally workable for PLA and rigid materials where I can get by with just 1 mm of retraction, but it takes just as long to retract 1 mm as the original bowden extruder did to retract 6 mm, defeating a lot of the appeal of a direct drive. For TPU I haven't been able to make it workable at all. By the time I retract 3 mm or so, which seems necessary to avoid stringing, the hotend has already melted and/or deposited a blob on the print. Failure to print TPU also defeats much of the point of a direct drive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm running retraction at 8 mm/s, 500 mm/s² acceleration, which is already higher than the manufacturer of the extruder recommends, and about the fastest I've been able to get it to work. Based on &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.daycounter.com/Calculators/Stepper-Motor-Calculator.phtml&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this calculator&lt;/a&gt; and 8.9 mH motor inductance, that seems roughly expected. I have TMC 2209 steppers and tried playing with current but it doesn't seem to make much difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Otherwise, I love this extruder, and want to make it work. Is there a way I can salvage it by changing out the motor for something that can do higher RPMs and accelerate just as fast or faster?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2021-07-20T01:25:29.680" Title="Can I make this extruder work by changing motor?" Tags="|extruder|stepper|motor|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15889" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15888" CreationDate="2021-03-17T22:19:46.077" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In general I would use &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/rcarlyle/StepperSim&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://github.com/rcarlyle/StepperSim&lt;/a&gt; which takes into account more parameters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can play with voltage and current to see which combination gives you the best results for your motor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or you can change to a TMC driver with higher voltage (35-50 V) to keep torque at much higher speeds and push the current motor more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since the torque you require is likely not so high, you can increase the speed of your stepper motor with 3D printed herringbone gears, for example 4:1. They don't need to be super accurate, backlash is totally fine considering the ridiculous 40:1 reduction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2338" LastActivityDate="2021-03-17T22:19:46.077" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15890" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-03-18T01:46:02.293" Score="1" ViewCount="614" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am new to 3D printing and recently purchased a Ender 5 Pro. I came and the 8 bit 1.15 board was broken (couldn't run extruder). I upgraded to a 32 bit Creality 4.2.7 and also purchased a BLtouch 3.1 bed leveling probe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I downloaded the stock firmware from Creality for the Ender 5 Pro and it seemed to work fine. I was having problems leveling the bed (it is high in the center) so that is why I bought the BLTouch. The 4.2.7 has a dedicated plug for the BLTouch, but, I cannot find any firmware to make it work properly. I, after a lot of head scratching, was able to get Marlin 2.0 edited with MS Visual Studio adding code for the BLTouch. Now when I try to home, the bed moves down, the probe moves to the back right position (like regular Z-Stop homing), then goes to the center of bed, the BLTouch cycles 2 times, but, the bed never comes up! It just stays where it is/was. The LCD says, &amp;quot;STOPPED&amp;quot; and then &amp;quot;Home Z&amp;quot;. I seem to be the only one with a BLTouch 3.1 attached to a 4.2.7 board on the Ender 5 Pro. Any help appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27388" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-03-18T08:30:39.827" LastActivityDate="2021-10-25T13:53:56.410" Title="Cannot configure Marlin 2/0.X bugfix on Ender 5 pro, 4.2.7 board with BLTouch 3.1" Tags="|bed-leveling|firmware|bltouch|creality-ender-5|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15891" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15918" CreationDate="2021-03-18T02:02:33.790" Score="1" ViewCount="129" Body="&lt;p&gt;So basically I've been having a problem with my Micro+.&#xA;It will not level / calibrate itself and I can't fix it. The reason I'm here is that I've been using Cura, and somehow it destroyed my bed. (See image)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Qe8cA.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Qe8cA.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;print bed for Micro +&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would like to know how to get it off, as I tried freezing, scraping and sandpaper&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To clarify some things:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The material is PLA,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;bed is made of plastic.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My build plate surface got destroyed after trying to use Cura, which sliced wrong and engraved the print into my bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23221" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-03-20T07:03:33.190" LastActivityDate="2021-04-01T11:30:27.810" Title="Options for removing failed prints" Tags="|bed|m3d|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15892" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3968" CreationDate="2021-03-18T07:05:22.077" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Actually, Both PLA and ABS could use for structural parts. PLA has high strength and is brittleness. ABS has better thermal resistance and durable. &lt;a href=&quot;https://ecoreprap.com/pla-vs-abs/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;PLA and ABS&lt;/a&gt; are the main types of 3D printing material, each has cons and pros.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to choose which type, you need to know the detailed application.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27393" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2021-03-19T02:04:06.970" LastActivityDate="2021-03-19T02:04:06.970" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15895" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15896" CreationDate="2021-03-18T14:21:53.377" Score="5" ViewCount="434" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to make a frame for a lithograph that I plan to 3D print for my wife for Mother's Day.  I typically will have my differences be exactly the right size (rather than oversizing it for the sake of the preview) because it gives me a good feel for how accurate my math is (particularly when I'm accounting for the horizontal margin created by the compressed filament coming out of the nozzle).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this case, however, it came back to bite me.  I debugged this issue for quite a while assuming I had miscalculated something or that I had confused my order of rotations somehow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Eventually, I oversized my cutout and sure enough, the holes appeared correctly.  After poking at it, I realized I only need &lt;code&gt;0.000005 mm&lt;/code&gt; on either side of my cutout for it to render correctly!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've created a minimal reproducible example of my issue here:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;outerRadius = 100;&#xA;height = 40;&#xA;&#xA;wallWidth = 2;&#xA;&#xA;innerRadius = outerRadius - wallWidth / sin(60);&#xA;apothem = innerRadius * cos(180 / 6);&#xA;&#xA;// change this to 0 and see what happens!!&#xA;holeSizeCorrection = 0.00001;&#xA;&#xA;module holes() {&#xA;    for (face = [0:5]) {&#xA;        rotate([0, 0, face * 60 + 30])&#xA;            translate([apothem - holeSizeCorrection / 2, 0, height / 2])&#xA;                rotate([0, 90, 0])&#xA;                    cylinder(h = wallWidth + holeSizeCorrection, r = height / 4, $fn = 4);&#xA;    }    &#xA;}&#xA;&#xA;color(&amp;quot;orange&amp;quot;) difference() {&#xA;    $fn = 6;&#xA;    &#xA;    cylinder(h = height, r = outerRadius);&#xA;    &#xA;    translate([0, 0, -height/4]) // because if it's exactly right, you can't see inside&#xA;        cylinder(h = height * 2, r = innerRadius);&#xA;&#xA;    color(&amp;quot;blue&amp;quot;) holes();&#xA;}&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the holes I'm trying to cut in the polygon are exactly the width of the wall, it renders the preview correctly but the rendered output is incorrect.  To verify that the shape was correct, I moved the holes out of the difference and it looks like this:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PDbL4.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PDbL4.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The preview (aside from the strange exact cut issue that usually happens) is correct as well.  But, when I render it, it looks like this:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zyS0z.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zyS0z.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But, if I have the hole shape stick out &lt;code&gt;0.000005 mm&lt;/code&gt; on either side, it renders just fine!&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ljnVX.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ljnVX.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now that I know to look for this kind of thing, it'll probably save me debugging time in the future. :)  But, it would be nice to know if I've done something wrong as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14900" LastEditorUserId="14900" LastEditDate="2021-03-18T16:49:17.590" LastActivityDate="2021-03-18T17:12:30.153" Title="Why does OpenSCAD fail to cut holes in polygon sides that are exactly the width of the wall?" Tags="|openscad|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15896" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15895" CreationDate="2021-03-18T16:57:37.383" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;openSCAD simply allows having surface solutions that result in a wall of 0 thickness. The walls appear to &lt;em&gt;clip&lt;/em&gt; in those areas and can at times be seen from both sides, like in your example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lIvMS.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lIvMS.png&quot; alt=&quot;a 0 thickness wall clipping&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A 0 thickness wall is also exportable into an STL as a set of triangles spun up by vertices that are in each other's plane but have inverted normal vectors for the two sides - which means that the construct &lt;em&gt;exists&lt;/em&gt; for the computer - and I have used this in 3D designs for a hologram-effect, even if it does not result in a physically possible property set.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An example of that effect is this cube (made in blender), that has the back wall purple, all others are grey - and the internal wall is at the same X-value as the back wall. You see the grey wall clipping &lt;em&gt;despite&lt;/em&gt; the normal of it pointing to +X while the normal of the purple wall is into -X.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3QLzZ.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3QLzZ.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By having your &lt;em&gt;cookie-cutter&lt;/em&gt; extrude not just to but &lt;em&gt;through&lt;/em&gt; the back wall, you force a solution that disallows the 0-surface solution and thus solves the problem of creating those &lt;em&gt;artifact&lt;/em&gt; walls.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that the 0-surface wall persists in the slicer preview:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kkRNX.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kkRNX.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pBaSe.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pBaSe.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But rest assured: almost all slicers ignore walls that are too thin to be printed, and a 0 thickness wall especially is ignored:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7wdmX.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7wdmX.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2021-03-18T17:12:30.153" LastActivityDate="2021-03-18T17:12:30.153" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15897" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15166" CreationDate="2021-03-18T17:02:23.703" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure what your country is, but You can also use &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.aluminyumburada.com/precision-milled-aluminium-plate&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Aludur Plus&lt;/a&gt; which has the same properties as 'mic 6' through &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.aluminyumburada.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;www.aluminyumburada.com&lt;/a&gt; They are based in Turkey and service the general region.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will you build your own heated with the tooling plate or were you planning on using it instead?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27400" LastActivityDate="2021-03-18T17:02:23.703" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15898" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-03-18T19:23:02.220" Score="1" ViewCount="237" Body="&lt;p&gt;The stepper motors usually have a constant acceleration profile (trapezoidal profile) of an even jerk limit profile (S-curve profile). In linear motion, it seems possible to conserve proportion between x and y speed as shown&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9TKk4.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9TKk4.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;My confusion starts when the direction of motion changed so the proportion of speed must change too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That impossible to join two velocity profiles except we decrease the speed of both axis down to zero then start ramping up with a new profile which means the 3D printer will stop and move for every G-Code segment that apparently not true.&#xA;So my question is how does the firmware deal with these problems joining velocity profile?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21079" LastEditorUserId="4922" LastEditDate="2021-03-18T23:01:04.120" LastActivityDate="2021-07-28T22:24:35.553" Title="What does the velocity profile of the motors look like when they change direction?" Tags="|firmware|acceleration|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15899" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-03-18T19:51:22.010" Score="2" ViewCount="167" Body="&lt;p&gt;New to the 3D printing world. I'm in need of some advice.  Is it possible to add code to Cura for the run-out sensor? I've had no luck narrowing the commands or anything that speaks to it. I was able to get the BLTouch working correctly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27402" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-03-18T23:33:06.253" LastActivityDate="2021-03-18T23:33:06.253" Title="Cura code for run-out sensor Ender 3 V2" Tags="|creality-ender-3|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15900" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15898" CreationDate="2021-03-18T22:05:36.173" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The answer depends on the kinematics model in use. In Marlin there are at least:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Classic jerk&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &amp;quot;jerk&amp;quot;, in units of mm/s not the expected mm/s³, is actually a &amp;quot;maximum instantaneous change&amp;quot; in velocity. Without any jerk (set to 0), your analysis would be correct, and all changes in direction would require slowing down to 0 velocity. However, with jerk, it's only necessary to slow down enough to make the necessary instantaneous change in velocity components less than the jerk limit. For a very slight change in direction (e.g. going around a curve approximated by line segments) this amounts to no slowdown at all. However, in this naive model, arbitrarily many bounded instantaneous velocity changes can happen in an arbitrarily small amount of time, essentially requiring unbounded acceleration capability and leading to missed steps/layer shifts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Junction deviation&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At each junction between segments where direction changes, the acceleration profile is executed &lt;em&gt;as if&lt;/em&gt; the motion were cutting the corner in an arc, deviating from the exact corner by a distance of the configured junction deviation parameter. The actual step path still follows the sharp corner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Others&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not really familiar with S-curve acceleration, but as I understand it it's a more advanced model fitting smooth curves to the travel path so that velocity can vary continuously, with bounded acceleration, rather than having jump discontinuities.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Klipper firmware also has a model very close to junction deviation, which its documentation explains clearly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2021-03-18T22:05:36.173" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15901" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15131" CreationDate="2021-03-19T10:14:15.150" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had exactly the same problem with an Ender 3 Pro I bought a couple of weeks ago (Mar 2021) and I was able to remove the gear easily with a small gear/bearing puller... take a look at Amazon and you will find plenty of selection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The 3-arm puller works better as it's much more stable when pulling the gear (this is the one I have). Both work in the same way; the arms/jaws attache to the bottom of the gear and the tip of the top screw pushes the motor shaft down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cP87H.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cP87H.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8TD3R.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8TD3R.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27411" LastEditorUserId="27411" LastEditDate="2021-03-19T18:22:12.810" LastActivityDate="2021-03-19T18:22:12.810" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15902" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-03-19T12:29:57.563" Score="2" ViewCount="147" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have purchased a replacement bed for my 3D printer. I wish to have it mounted on a single linear rail.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Currently I am unable to drill properly into aluminum (due to problems with my drill).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Therefore, I'd like to print and use an adapter piece/plate to fasten the Y-carriage to the linear rail block. The bed has a thermal insulation foam so the area around the bottom of the Y-carriage plate/bed assembly doesn't seem to go over 60 °C.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Which material should I use for this adapter piece, and why? &lt;em&gt;(I have access to PLA, PETG and ABS.)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Should I use threaded inserts or fasten the Y-carriage with nuts?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please see the image below to have an idea as to what I mean by an adapter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/npUyi.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/npUyi.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23636" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-03-19T22:44:51.107" LastActivityDate="2021-08-19T13:07:15.860" Title="Which material should I use to print a mounting adapter for the y-carriage?" Tags="|heated-bed|y-axis|linear-motion|carriage|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15903" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15166" CreationDate="2021-03-19T13:33:48.383" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most of the aluminium alloys are fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When they say that a certain aluminium is not suitable to certain temperature range they usually mean &amp;quot;under stress&amp;quot;... your bed has no stress at all, it's just staying there with basically no weight on top of it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, you don't need the single micron accuracy either...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just pick a &amp;quot;cast&amp;quot; and milled aluminium and not a rolled one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can choose among different ones, pick the one with the highest thermal conductivity, and that's it. For example, I can easily find milled plates out of 5083 or 7021. 7021 has a better thermal conductivity, which is good to have a more uniform temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2338" LastActivityDate="2021-03-19T13:33:48.383" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15904" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-03-20T07:05:28.037" Score="1" ViewCount="887" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just got an Ender 3 a day or two ago and was really excited being that it was my first 3D printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I got to work putting it together with little issue. I go to turn it on and the power supply starts up just fine (the fan on, the internal light on) but the mainboard fan isn't running and the screen isn't turning on. I wait a few minutes thinking that it needed to boot up but nothing. I tried reconnecting the red and black power cables and still nothing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not set up for tearing the thing apart and checking every socket with a voltmeter or something. I've checked the voltage switch and have it set for 115 V for North America. I remember now that when I was moving the bed and it lurched (because the wheels were too tight) the screen might have lit up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm worried that the board might be fried. I don't feel like taking this thing apart and sending it back.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27424" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2021-03-20T15:31:34.173" LastActivityDate="2022-08-14T12:00:35.143" Title="New Ender 3 power supply turns on but the controller board does not" Tags="|creality-ender-3|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15905" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15891" CreationDate="2021-03-20T07:19:19.220" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have tried &lt;a href=&quot;/q/11707/&quot;&gt;every&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;/q/7592/&quot;&gt;trick&lt;/a&gt; to remove the print, you probably need to &lt;a href=&quot;/q/7960/&quot;&gt;replace&lt;/a&gt; the build surface. If the PLA is &amp;quot;engraved&amp;quot; into the build surface, your surface is damaged anyways, just replace the surface, or remove the top surface and buy a sheet of glass, preferably borosilicate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2021-03-20T07:19:19.220" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15906" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-03-20T09:32:38.403" Score="1" ViewCount="118" Body="&lt;p&gt;After attempting to remove my Bowden tube for maintenance I have managed to break the coupler used to secure the Bowden tube in my Slice Engineering Copperhead heat sink. I'm having significant trouble identifying the proper name of and source for a replacement coupler. I've located others which seem to be similar in design but not the same size. I'm finding conflicting name and type information and am unsure which is correct. It's a small black plastic coupler with a blue ring clip used to secure it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To prevent future issue I also would like to know the proper procedure for use... i.e. the methods for securing and removing the Bowden tube without damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27425" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-03-20T12:12:56.103" LastActivityDate="2021-08-18T06:01:30.137" Title="How to identify, use, and replace the Copperhead Bowden coupler?" Tags="|bowden|ptfe-tube|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15907" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15796" CreationDate="2021-03-20T15:00:03.840" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had the same issue.  I think I flipped my display cable around and it worked.  Maybe I got lucky and it was simply reseating the cable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27402" LastActivityDate="2021-03-20T15:00:03.840" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15908" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15928" CreationDate="2021-03-20T17:01:11.223" Score="1" ViewCount="1688" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to build a mini CNC machine and need some lead screws. I was wondering I can simply 3D print some. There are a few 3D models out there but I want to know if printing it in PLA+ has enough strength for a small CNC. Is it possible?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21856" LastActivityDate="2021-03-22T17:59:34.387" Title="3D Printed Lead Screw" Tags="|print-strength|lead-screw|cnc|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15909" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15908" CreationDate="2021-03-20T18:49:42.637" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is it possible? Yes. Is it advisable? &lt;strong&gt;No&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lead screws need to be smooth and have little to no stretch and there can be a lot of tension on them. However, 3D prints are quite rough by the way they are made and super weak on tension forces - and not have a good compression withstanding either.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;a 3D printed leadscrew is therefore &lt;strong&gt;not adviseable&lt;/strong&gt;, especially since ready-made leadscrews and fitting nuts are cheap in the shape of nuts and threaded rods for the crudest setup.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastActivityDate="2021-03-20T18:49:42.637" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15910" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-03-20T22:57:18.610" Score="1" ViewCount="1816" Body="&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Printer: Anycubic Mega S.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mods: BLTouch, Dual material with G-code-powered switch.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Firmware: Marlin 2.0&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A couple of weeks ago I had a print failure when printing PETG. Now whenever I use auto bed leveling, it doesn't compensate correctly. The nozzles will be too high on the left side of the bed, and too low toward the right. I checked my firmware configuration, and everything appears to be OK. I also suspect that the failed print may have knocked the Z endstops out of alignment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I recalibrated the Z-offset on the BLTouch and ran a probe repeatability test. Everything came out fine. My &lt;code&gt;Configuration.h&lt;/code&gt; can be found &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.dropbox.com/sh/ccp6dzft8mo2h1j/AAD7-gjMG4wRQvafq-cwiFPUa?dl=0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;. As well as a picture of the hotend setup below.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: I tried leveling the bed manually before using ABL. Still had the same problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit 2: I looked more closely at the bed leveling logs and noticed that it is reading the bed level incorrectly, contrary to my previous tests.&#xA;I do not know what this means, but I suspect it has to do with misaligned endstops. Could this be correct?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9zbK2.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9zbK2.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;My dual nozzle/material mod for the Anycubic I3 Mega/Mega S&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23807" LastEditorUserId="23807" LastEditDate="2021-04-02T16:23:22.947" LastActivityDate="2021-04-02T16:23:22.947" Title="BLTouch does not compensate for bed level correctly" Tags="|marlin|bltouch|anycubic-i3-mega|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15911" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15616" CreationDate="2021-03-21T02:24:44.850" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the problem occurs in or immediately following printing of support material, it's probably Cura's &lt;em&gt;Limit Support Retractions&lt;/em&gt; option, which defaults to on. This is probably the single worst default Cura has, and it causes all sorts of problems - surface defects, difficult-to-remove support, underextrusion, etc. - due to basically skipping all (necessary!) retractions while printing support.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the problem occurs in infill area, it's probably &lt;em&gt;Combing&lt;/em&gt;. Lowering &lt;em&gt;Max Comb Distance With No Retract&lt;/em&gt; to something very low (150-200% of the nozzle width, so like 0.8 mm) should make this problem go away, but at some nontrivial cost to print time. If you make this change, you almost surely need &lt;em&gt;Zig-zaggify Infill&lt;/em&gt; enabled if you want to avoid very high cost to print time and excessive retractions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2021-03-21T02:24:44.850" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15912" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15906" CreationDate="2021-03-21T05:26:02.457" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's an &lt;em&gt;embedded Bowden collet&lt;/em&gt;. Also called a Bowden clip which is a much more vague and overloeaded term.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;E3D (UK) and MicroSwiss (US) have their own branded versions but they're likely not made in house, they're prbably reselling what they buy in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Youtubers appear to pronounce this Bowden colle&lt;strong&gt;c&lt;/strong&gt;t which does not help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26570" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-03-21T05:31:00.743" LastActivityDate="2021-03-21T05:31:00.743" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15913" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15921" CreationDate="2021-03-21T15:23:20.693" Score="2" ViewCount="130" Body="&lt;p&gt;Being new to 3D printing, I started using Cura (which came with my Ender 3v2) to slice models I found on Thingiverse. I know that there are other slicers and have heard positive things about PrusaSlicer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know that settings will have different names, but I am asking more about the setup. What things, settings, etc. should I be aware of when using PrusaSlicer? Will I need to re-calibrate anything in PrusaSlicer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23193" LastActivityDate="2022-11-10T18:37:47.280" Title="Trying PrusaSlicer" Tags="|slicing|prusaslicer|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15914" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15878" CreationDate="2021-03-21T16:04:57.460" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As @towe mentioned, 'no-driver-detected' messages in Octoprint log are harmless if you have TMC2100 motors. After experimenting with RepRap settings I found the correct configuration that works with my hardware. Here is the relevant part of the configuration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;; Drives&#xA;M569 P0 S1                                     ; physical drive 0 goes forwards&#xA;M569 P1 S1                                     ; physical drive 1 goes forwards&#xA;M569 P2 S1                                     ; physical drive 2 goes forwards&#xA;M569 P3 S0                                     ; physical drive 3 goes backwards&#xA;M584 X0 Y1 Z2 E3                               ; set drive mapping&#xA;M350 X16 Y16 Z16 E16 I1                        ; configure microstepping with interpolation&#xA;M92 X100.00 Y100.00 Z100.00 E100.00            ; set steps per mm&#xA;M566 X1200.00 Y1200.00 Z1200.00 E300.00        ; set maximum instantaneous speed changes (mm/min)&#xA;M203 X48000.00 Y48000.00 Z48000.00 E1500.00    ; set maximum speeds (mm/min)&#xA;M201 X1500.00 Y1500.00 Z1500.00 E1000.00       ; set accelerations (mm/s^2)&#xA;M906 X1000 Y1000 Z1000 E800 I30                ; set motor currents (mA) and motor idle factor in per cent&#xA;M84 S30                                        ; Set idle timeout&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27368" LastActivityDate="2021-03-21T16:04:57.460" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15915" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-03-21T17:27:11.507" Score="1" ViewCount="388" Body="&lt;p&gt;I tried to print in ABS for my first time. I have had my printer for almost 2 years but have only just started to use it and have a total of 28 hours of print time. The job I tried to print was meant to take almost 35 hours to print but I stopped it after 4 hours as there was no material on the build plate. I tried to change the filament back to PLA to do a test print of some other item but was not able to load the PLA due to the nozzle being clogged up. The last of the ABS that was black was coming out of the nozzle a very pale gray. I have bought a new nozzle to reinstall it and try again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any suggestions as to what caused the nozzle to block and how to stop it from happening again? I was trying to print at 230 °C and a bed temp of 70 °C&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27438" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-03-21T22:41:21.970" LastActivityDate="2021-03-21T22:41:21.970" Title="Printing issues of ABS on a Flashforge Adventure 3 nozzle blocked" Tags="|abs|flashforge-adventurer-3|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15916" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-03-21T19:08:00.333" Score="2" ViewCount="188" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am trying to print a fairly simple object yet I keep getting the same issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you can see in the picture the print quality is bad with all the blobs on the vertical part of the print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have leveled the bed many times and I keep getting this issue. I have also calibrated the E-steps. I have replaced the PTFE tube as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am printing with Sunlu PLA+. I was printing at 220 °C but now that I set it at 200 °C the result is a little bit better but it has not gone away.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please advise on how to fix this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: I have 2 Ender 3 V2's and the other printer is printing the same files pretty much perfect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ku8fN.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ku8fN.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26770" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-03-21T22:41:35.763" LastActivityDate="2021-05-26T10:57:01.963" Title="Printing issue on Ender 3V2" Tags="|creality-ender-3|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15917" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15916" CreationDate="2021-03-21T20:50:18.430" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Maybe it's only about the slicer settings, it's over extruding problem. I recommend lowering the extrusion multiplier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20360" LastEditorUserId="20360" LastEditDate="2021-05-26T10:57:01.963" LastActivityDate="2021-05-26T10:57:01.963" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15918" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15891" CreationDate="2021-03-21T21:26:08.977" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Once a time, it was the same with me, I sanded the surface well and continued for a while without any problems. The only problem was the sand pattern that was always visible in the bottom of models and finally I upgraded the bed to PEI sheet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20360" LastActivityDate="2021-03-21T21:26:08.977" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15919" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15920" CreationDate="2021-03-21T22:40:06.427" Score="8" ViewCount="2879" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have just set up my new 3D printer. However, the build plate keeps slipping while printing. I tried to use binder clips to keep the plate in place, but this makes the build plate unlevel, messing up my prints. What are some other ways to prevent the build plate from slipping. I was considering using duct tape, but am not sure whether this would work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27385" LastActivityDate="2021-03-27T22:32:20.597" Title="How can you prevent the build plate from slipping?" Tags="|build-plate|bed|build-surface|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15920" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15919" CreationDate="2021-03-21T22:51:29.963" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use kapton tape to fixate the glass plates to the heated beds on two of my printers, one a Prusa i3 clone, the other a CoreXY. The tape is able to withstand higher temperatures, and is very thin, so it doesn't have the drawbacks of limiting the print area or high chance the nozzle hitting the clips.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4Mjuj.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4Mjuj.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-03-27T22:32:20.597" LastActivityDate="2021-03-27T22:32:20.597" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15921" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15913" CreationDate="2021-03-21T23:00:32.387" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Basically all slicers work very similarly, it is a matter of preference, being accustomed, or wanting to use a certain (set of) features. Their job is to prepare the object to be sliced in layers to be executed by the printer you use. For every slicer to work properly, you need to configure the printer settings correctly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically, all slicers have the following basic settings:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Printer settings,&lt;br&gt; &lt;em&gt;these contain information on the printer like build volume, origin, heated bed, nr. of extruders (and what filament diameter is used), scripts, etc.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;filament settings,&lt;br&gt;&lt;em&gt;these contain e.g. information on the print and bed temperature&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;print settings&lt;br&gt;&lt;em&gt;these contain all parameters you use in your normally used slicer, these can be hundreds of options like speeds, accelerations, layer height, nr. of walls, etc.&lt;/em&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;some of the movement profile settings (like acceleration, jerk, max-speed) might be handled as a &lt;em&gt;printer&lt;/em&gt; setting by some slicers and as a &lt;em&gt;print&lt;/em&gt; one by different slicers. In the end, some of these are dependant on the printer's construction.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Printer dimensions and layout, filament diameter, and start and end G-code scripts are the things to look for. The rest is straightforward, you need to specify material and object slice settings as you would normally do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2021-03-23T17:12:34.443" LastActivityDate="2021-03-23T17:12:34.443" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15922" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15942" CreationDate="2021-03-21T23:27:56.597" Score="7" ViewCount="10162" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I have been having an ongoing problem with my printer that I just can't solve. I don't usually ask the questions on stack exchanges until my problem gets unsolvable. Unfortunately like this one&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Printer&lt;/strong&gt;: Creality Ender 3 V2&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Current Board&lt;/strong&gt;: &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B07TFTVTXK&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Creality v4.2.7 (Silent Motor)&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Background&lt;/strong&gt;: This started when I accidentally fried the T20 chip on the v4.2.2 mainboard when I tried to install the BLTouch incorrectly (I looked at the photo upside down) and and also accidentally pulled the wire out and what I guess is why the T20 chip was fried. I thought at first the PSU was the one causing the trouble at first so I replaced it. Then found the burnt chip and decided to upgrade the board to a v4.2.7. I installed everything correctly according to a video that I found somewhere on YouTube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Current Problem(s)&lt;/strong&gt;: When I turn on the machine the light on the mainboard is on but there is continuous beeping coming from the display with small clicks like a clock every 1 sec. or so. The backlight to the display is on but nothing is shown. I just found with a multimeter that the bed and nozzle terminals give no volts back.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Firmware&lt;/strong&gt;: I have tried to update the firmware to the &lt;a href=&quot;https://forums.creality3dofficial.com/download/ender-series/ender-3-v2/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;official one off of Creality's website&lt;/a&gt; and also using the source code for &lt;a href=&quot;https://marlinfw.org/meta/download&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Marlin v2.0.7.2&lt;/a&gt; with PlatformIO. The tutorial I followed was here: &lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/y87P7K5DTMU?start=0&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update [3/24]&lt;/strong&gt;: Found that the firmware seems to not flash even after giving the .bin file a different name.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Extra Thoughts&lt;/strong&gt;: I currently have no idea what to do. I think I might replace the LCD and its cable. I have only printed a few things and just want to get back to it but I don't want to buy a whole new printer to do so. I feel like I get closer to getting back to it every time I fix something but I'm starting to lose hope that it's just a never ending problem loop. I appreciate any help given.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27441" LastEditorUserId="27441" LastEditDate="2021-03-24T16:51:16.863" LastActivityDate="2023-05-10T08:33:08.973" Title="Ender 3 V2 blank screen and LCD continuous beeping with clicks" Tags="|marlin|creality-ender-3|troubleshooting|electronics|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="12" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15923" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-03-22T03:57:06.430" Score="2" ViewCount="164" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have had an Ender 3 Pro for the last year, and put a BLTouch on it about 6 months ago. With the BLTouch installed for the last 6 months, I have successfully completed hundreds of prints with no issues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Recently I was starting another print, and the BLTouch did not complete its leveling sequence fully and the print never started. Now sometimes it will lock up on the first probing point (1/9), it moves to the (x,y) point and extends the probe tip and then the Z-axis will move up and stop and then up and stop again. Other times it will complete the first probing points normally then lock up in the same way on point 5/9.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It does this regardless of if there is an SD card in the printer or not (starting a print or just navigating the menu). It will successfully complete the &amp;quot;auto home&amp;quot; sequence but not the &amp;quot;level bed&amp;quot; sequence.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For troubleshooting, I have tried a different leveling sensor I have and the same problems happen with it, so I don't think there is a problem with the BLTouch sensor itself. I have also flashed reflashed the firmware (Marlin 1.3.1), and that also did not solve the problem. My mainboard is the 4.2.2 model, and I have checked the plugs where the sensor gets plugged into the main board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am considering replacing the mainboard with the 4.2.7 model as my next step, but Im not sure that that will solve whatever problem is happening. Any ideas or tips would be awesome.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27444" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-03-22T21:27:32.973" LastActivityDate="2021-03-22T21:27:32.973" Title="Ender 3 Pro with BLTouch, partially completes ABL sequence then locks up" Tags="|creality-ender-3|bltouch|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15924" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15904" CreationDate="2021-03-22T07:22:07.383" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I prefer to check basic power connections with multimeter. But indeed if you are not in an emergency, it would be better to send it back. The wires may come loose, I mean on the main board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20360" LastActivityDate="2021-03-22T07:22:07.383" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15925" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15919" CreationDate="2021-03-22T10:41:46.863" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure what &amp;quot;the build plate keeps slipping while printing. I tried to use binder clips to keep the plate in place&amp;quot; means, but if you have a build surface and a bottom heated bed, you can look for &amp;quot;silicone thermal pad 0.5mm&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can put it between build surface and lower bed, so that it will increase friction and there won't be any slipping, even without clips.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ppiOT.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ppiOT.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also look for &amp;quot;thermal conductive rubber silicone cloth 0.3mm&amp;quot; which is fiberglass reinforced and thinner, but with a maybe worse thermal conductivity. It is however more tear resistant, which helps when you remove the build surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JTBCY.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JTBCY.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2338" LastEditorUserId="2338" LastEditDate="2021-03-22T12:49:41.277" LastActivityDate="2021-03-22T12:49:41.277" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15926" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15902" CreationDate="2021-03-22T11:30:18.367" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Any thermoplastic is a bad choice to carry a heated bed. For an &lt;strong&gt;unheated&lt;/strong&gt; bed, monolithic (cast, not printed) acrylic plate of sufficient thickness can be used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To get the needed stiffness and temperature resistance, steel plate of about 2+mm is the best choice, followed by aluminium of a higher thickness. The latter can be sawed with woodworking equipment, if done slowly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastActivityDate="2021-03-22T11:30:18.367" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15927" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15919" CreationDate="2021-03-22T11:39:26.457" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Build Plate&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your clips aren't holding down your build plate, make sure your nozzle isn't crashing into the plate and moving it.  A build surface between the clip and surface or adhesive might help keep the clip from slipping on the top surface.  A rubbery gasket material that can withstand you heated bed temperatures, such as the silicon FarO mentions, can keep the bottom of the plate from slipping.  This is the most important surface not to slip.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Apparently, Oscar's option is to tape down the edges of the build plate.  I have used Kapton tape to cover torn build surfaces.  As Oscar mentioned, it is thin enough for the nozzle to pass over.  Kapton tape can be a challenge to adhere at high bed temperatures, such as 110 °C.  For that option it's probably worth checking the adhesive specs if they vary for different Kapton tapes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Those two options aren't mutually exclusive and could be used together.  You could even put clips over the Kapton tape at higher bed temperatures if it is an issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Build Surfaces&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PEI sheets are the most common build surfaces and already have an adhesive surface.  Kapton tape seems to be the surface most resistant to damage, but a sheet that covers the entire build surface is expensive.  Kapton seems to do a better job of releasing PETG.  Otherwise, I use Elmer's glue sticks to protect the build surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15075" LastEditorUserId="15075" LastEditDate="2021-03-22T13:13:12.993" LastActivityDate="2021-03-22T13:13:12.993" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15928" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15908" CreationDate="2021-03-22T15:53:05.367" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Expanding on some previous comments which are probably enough to warrant an answer:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What Trish said is completely right. Leadscrews are readily available parts and any dimensional errors in the leadscrews will be reflected in the output of your CNC machine unless you have some sort of compensation for them. Moreover, if the material is not highly rigid, the dimensions are subject to change over time, so any compensation would have to be ongoing manual adjustment or closed-loop rather than a one-time calibration. &amp;quot;PLA+&amp;quot; is an especially bad choice because it usually means PLA that's been modified with additives to make it less brittle, deforming under stress instead of holding its shape until it breaks catastrophically. &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uAoZCpXoPWo&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;CNC Kitchen's video on PLA+&lt;/a&gt; elaborates on this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With that said, if you don't need a high level of precision, or if you're in a situation where you're unable to obtain manufactured components, I think 3D printed leadscrews would work ok if you print them in the XY plane rather than along the Z axis. While nozzle width and discrete layers produce a sort of &amp;quot;stairstep&amp;quot; quantization of printed threads in the Z direction, that doesn't happen with the threads in the XY plane; the nozzle width limits feature resolution (oscillations per unit length) but the positioning of the threads is quantized only to the X and Y (micro)step size, which is typically on the order of 10 microns. Moreover, the strength and rigidity of the part printed in this direction can be very high, due to the offset-layered zigzag structure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Back to accuracy of the part, though, it's important to note that whatever flaws your printer might have in XY positioning accuracy will be reflected in the resulting leadscrew. This includes &lt;em&gt;non-linear effects&lt;/em&gt; such as belt paths being slightly trapezoidal instead of having perfectly colinear points of attachment to the carriage. In general, when manufacturing parts that will affect the accuracy of the resulting machine, you want to use processes that amplify the precision your tooling was manufactured with rather than processes that reproduce or amplify its flaws.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastEditorUserId="11157" LastEditDate="2021-03-22T17:59:34.387" LastActivityDate="2021-03-22T17:59:34.387" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15929" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15916" CreationDate="2021-03-23T06:19:02.850" Score="2" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Print the same file, with the same settings, on both machines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If the problem persists, try swapping the filament between the two printers. If the problem now occurs on the other printer, that suggests that the filament is the issue. Label the bad one &amp;quot;For lumpy prints&amp;quot; and put it away.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If the problem persists on the printer where it first occurred, despite swapping filament reels, the issue probably has something to do with the printer. Remove and examine the nozzle, and consider replacing it even if it looks OK. Nozzles are cheap and easy to replace, so this is an easy early step.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If a new nozzle doesn't fix it, other parts related to the extruder like the hot end thermistor, fans, heater block, etc. could be to blame. If the thermistor is just positioned a little differently than on the &amp;quot;good&amp;quot; printer, for example, it might be reading a little low and causing the nozzle to heat up more to get to the target reading. That doesn't necessarily mean that you have to replace those parts; you just need to recognize the difference and compensate for it when you use that printer. Just as a baker might think &amp;quot;the recipe says 400 °F, but I know my oven runs hot, so I'll use 375 °F instead,&amp;quot; you may need to adjust the nozzle temperature to compensate for the hardware differences when you use this printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1690" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-03-23T18:03:14.457" LastActivityDate="2021-03-23T18:03:14.457" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15930" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4469" CreationDate="2021-03-23T12:09:31.363" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I highly recommend aluminium tooling plates. They have a +/- 0.1 mm flatness tolerance on 1 meter. It's alloy 5083 offers a great stability. You can purchase such for example at aluminyumburada, which offers &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.aluminyumburada.com/aluminum-cut-to-size&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;custom cut piecees.&lt;/a&gt;. They have a minimum thickness of 5 mm, though the prices get lower the thicker the piece is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27400" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2021-03-23T15:33:54.393" LastActivityDate="2021-03-23T15:33:54.393" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15931" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-03-23T15:31:49.287" Score="1" ViewCount="579" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently bought a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.comgrow.com/a/s/products/mini-laser-engraver-diy-desktop-engraving-tool?utm_source=shopsheriff&amp;amp;utm_medium=amp&amp;amp;utm_content=product-card-grid&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Mini Desktop Laser Engraver&lt;/a&gt; by Comgrow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So far, the limited functionality of their iOS app has been fine for little trinkets for testing. Pretty good product for the cheap price. However, the technical specifications specify Windows as a compatible OS. I cannot find any documentation on how to go about making this work. I downloaded a trial version of Lightburn and connected the laser via USB. Windows 10 recognized a COM port, but Lightburn cannot recognize the laser. I'd like to do more with this than simple pre-designed clip art from my phone. Can anyone give me a brief explanation of how this COM port is supposed to communicate with my PC? Even communication with the port and laser via command line would be acceptable, but I don't know where to start looking for options because I don't have an understanding of the way the tech interfaces with my PC. Also, any recommendations to solve this issue would be appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27459" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-03-23T18:04:48.747" LastActivityDate="2021-03-23T18:04:48.747" Title="Comgrow Mini Laser Engraver - Adding laser to Windows laser control software" Tags="|troubleshooting|software|laser|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15932" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15934" CreationDate="2021-03-23T16:17:56.473" Score="2" ViewCount="145" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I recently got an M3D Micro+ and have had 2 years of experience in 3D printing. I've had some issues with the printer and the prints produced and would like to know how I can fix them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The issues include:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Thick layer lines&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bad first layers / adhesion&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;wobbly extruder head&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a screenshot of one of the prints:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VPmui.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VPmui.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The tolerances are also pretty bad. I would like to know recommended settings and such to help me get to actually printing. As of yet, I have not yet gotten a successful print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23221" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2022-02-05T22:08:31.033" LastActivityDate="2022-02-05T22:08:31.033" Title="What am I doing wrong with my M3D Micro?" Tags="|troubleshooting|layer-shifting|m3d|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15934" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15932" CreationDate="2021-03-23T22:50:58.523" Score="4" Body="&lt;h1&gt;It's not you - it's the printer!&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The M3D Micro is not a very sturdy setup. The X-axis is a single pair of thin rods, hung up on a pair of similarly thin rods in Y and mounted on 3 very thin pillars in Z. While the idea is good, the execution is not particularly well: The rods are too thin and the design is virtually unchanged since 2015 and thus &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.tomsguide.com/us/m3d-micro-3d-printer,review-3327.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this review from 2016 still applies&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/Q_6IURZ1esM&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;As does this from 2018:&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The extruder having problems to extrude reliable and steadily was not fixed since &lt;a href=&quot;https://uk.pcmag.com/3d-printers/74073/m3d-micro-3d-printer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;at least 2015.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The mounting of the motion system is not very sturdy and the system itself is under-designed. This means it is particularly vulnerable to oscillation - which your print shows.&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The extruder is mounted flexibly on the motion system, which amplifies all those errors. But that is designed for bed leveling - so there is little you can do to gett the needed stiffness&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The motors are underpowered. This leads especially to trouble with movement accuracy unless you print super slow. And that print you showed shows that you print with more normal print settings for a 2021 machine. This also shows in your print.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If a professional in 2018 can spend 2 days calibrating and get no results with the owner's proprietary slicer, then that slicer is not worth the disk space it uses. If you need to hack Cura to get the proprietary g-code derivate &lt;em&gt;and&lt;/em&gt; you need to do that to get even decent prints, it's a bad design.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All in all, you might squeak out better prints with a lot of calibration work, but the printer suffers so heavy from the design flaws that it would be a labor of love.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2021-03-23T23:20:37.323" LastActivityDate="2021-03-23T23:20:37.323" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15935" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-03-24T10:59:32.870" Score="2" ViewCount="414" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have read that if I disconnect OctoPrint when printing, the print will stop.  Since I thought the advantage of OctoPrint over, say, printing from Cura, was that it didn't tie up the computer while the print was taking place, what are the advantages of OctoPrint?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27476" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-03-24T11:58:52.547" LastActivityDate="2021-03-29T16:00:07.343" Title="Query advantages of OctoPrint" Tags="|octoprint|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15936" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15935" CreationDate="2021-03-24T12:08:59.453" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The benefit of using OctoPrint as a printserver lies in the fact that it can be used on a stable computer platform. E.g. when you install OctoPrint on a Raspberry Pi, you are ensured that the &amp;quot;computer&amp;quot; stays online. Other platforms, such as Windows are much prone to interrupt the printing process (user actions during printing, sleep mode, Windows updates, etc.). Furthermore, the power consumption of the Raspberry Pi is also much lower than a full computer or laptop running OctoPrint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An advantage of running OctoPrint on a dedicated Raspberry Pi is that you can access it from anywhere within your network through a browser interface (or even from the outside) as it is always online. Other advantages of OctoPrint over e.g. Cura is that there are numerous plugins available to tailor the printing process to your needs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-03-24T12:21:57.397" LastActivityDate="2021-03-24T12:21:57.397" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15937" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15935" CreationDate="2021-03-24T13:35:33.767" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Printer Supervisory control and data acquisition (SCADA)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/SCADA&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/SCADA&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the context of 3d printing, SCADA is useful because it is important to have a redundant method of monitoring (and control) of a system. The 3d printer's µController is typically busy with doing the important task of controlling the steppers and monitoring the heating elements. It is important to the print job that these functions occur in a way that is uninterruptible. We know all too well of the consequences of letting the hot end go into thermal runaway. As it stands most 3d printers have simple µControllers that are not powerful enough to handle TCP/IP responses AND monitor the 3d printer's machinery. To that end, being able to notify a Supervisor of the status of the machine and any failure conditions that may be occurring becomes important in the management of the machine. This is where a Supervisory system like Octoprint comes in. With its myriad of plugins and other connectivity, it extends the abilities of an inexpensive printer (e.g. like my Anet A8) with advanced capabilities for notification (e.g. the Octoprint Android/IOS apps) and control; such as automatically powering off the printer with a wifi-enabled smart plug. These are safety features that should be considered when operating a 3d printer. The temptation to leave the machine running unattended has resulted in problems in the past.&#xA;With a supervisory system, the machine's operator can give at least some attention to the print process at all times.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Further, sometimes the print fails without actually being a result of some sort of electromechanical fault. Having optical inspection equipment (e.g. a camera) attached to the supervisory system can help determine if there are problems with the process so that fine-tuning can be performed. Without such data, it is usually very difficult to diagnose those problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12857" LastEditorUserId="12857" LastEditDate="2021-03-29T15:28:31.353" LastActivityDate="2021-03-29T15:28:31.353" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15938" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11081" CreationDate="2021-03-24T22:26:15.160" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This works for OctoPI (OctoPrint on a Raspberry Pi).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Add the Samba package to your OctoPrint machine.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;open an SMB connection to that machine from your browser machine&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Save your STL to &lt;code&gt;/home/pi/.octoprint/uploads&lt;/code&gt; on the Raspberry Pi.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can save directly from your slicer the same way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27490" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-03-24T23:07:06.737" LastActivityDate="2021-03-24T23:07:06.737" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15939" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15969" CreationDate="2021-03-24T22:46:00.393" Score="2" ViewCount="255" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an SVG file of a line drawing.  When I import it into Tinkercad it generates a 3D version with the width of the lines remaining constant along the Z-axis (as expected).  I would like to generate a similar STL but with the line width narrowing for increasing values of Z.  (Similar to the Bevel option in some of the Tinkercad Text shapes).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can anyone point me at a tutorial on how to do this in Tinkercad, Blender, Meshmixer or Open SCAD?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27490" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-03-29T11:04:12.193" LastActivityDate="2021-03-29T11:04:12.193" Title="Vary line with Z-axis for imported SVG file" Tags="|openscad|blender|meshmixer|tinkercad|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15940" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15873" CreationDate="2021-03-25T03:11:31.503" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't think that the heated bed would be damaged if the connecting wire shorted out. The heatbeb is basically one large resistor. It has a couple of surface mount LEDs that lights up red when the bed is powered for heating, but there should not be other sensitive components on the board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The greater concern I have from your attached photos, is the cause of the 'short'. Unless there was fraying or other loose wires that could have bridged the terminals, your problem might have been a loose connection that created resistance at the interface layer which then caused that specific connection to heat up. The voltage is not high enough to cause sparks across the gap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The additional heat and electrical instability might have fried your Einsy. You don't mention if the printer starts when you power it up, but I assume that you are considering replacing parts because the printer is not working.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have access to a multimeter you can just measure the resistance across the wires of the heatbed. If it is broken you will see an open connection on the multimeter, but if you see Ohms in the 1-100 Ohm range (don't know the specific resistance of a disconnected heatbed), it means the board should be OK.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7470" LastActivityDate="2021-03-25T03:11:31.503" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15941" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15863" CreationDate="2021-03-25T03:24:23.970" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This seems like a tolerance press fit problem and similar to what you will find if you try the same using normal machining operations on a lathe or milling machine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I print 3 mm clearance fit holes on my Prusa MK3S, meant to fit on 3.00 mm (measured with a digital caliper) stainless steel shafts. The printed parts are from Fusion 360 models, with 3 mm holes by design, converted to STL and then sliced and printed with 0.2 mm layer height. The holes are very close to 3.0 mm and out by 0.05-0.1 mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The solution was to make adjustments in Fusion. I left the model with the hole size as 3 mm but then use the Offset Face command on the inside of the extruded hole to make it slightly larger with the required tolerance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OaMCs.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OaMCs.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my case, an offset of 0.05 provided a nice press fit, and 0.1 offset allowed the shaft to closely fit in the hole but loose enough to rotate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suggest you create a simple model with a number of holes designed to be the same size and then use different Offset Face numbers to dial in what you need. That way you get to learn what to expect from your printer and its accuracy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7470" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-03-25T03:30:26.023" LastActivityDate="2021-03-25T03:30:26.023" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15942" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15922" CreationDate="2021-03-25T04:48:38.293" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Thanks to &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/15922/ender-3-v2-blank-screen-and-lcd-continuous-beeping-with-clicks/20921#comment30127_15922&quot;&gt;the comment&lt;/a&gt; from @Rykara, they led me to the answer:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could be a bad or incorrectly formatted SD card. I think the card needs to be FAT32 format. Try reformating and/or using a different SD card?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The whole problem was kinda a firmware issue but on the SD card side. The reason why it wasn't flashing was because I didn't flash the SD card to use the FAT32 format. Unfortunately I tried every other format option except that one before hand, mostly because I am mainly on a Mac. Now there is no more problems and I am back on track to printing. :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27441" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2023-05-10T08:33:08.973" LastActivityDate="2023-05-10T08:33:08.973" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15943" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15806" CreationDate="2021-03-25T06:53:32.603" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Another opinion received:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That’s the result of MakerBot and others promoting the tech to the general public for the first time after the patents expired. They were just running up stock prices to make a lot of money&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11091" LastActivityDate="2021-03-25T06:53:32.603" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15944" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15863" CreationDate="2021-03-25T10:12:10.733" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Besides offsetting the &lt;strong&gt;clearances&lt;/strong&gt; you want into models, you can and should also calibrate your printer to &lt;strong&gt;compensate for included holes&lt;/strong&gt; - because often inner holes are solved to be smaller than actually designed out of necessity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, the option can &lt;em&gt;also&lt;/em&gt; be used to fix problems that stem from the slicing and printing itself, and thus offers to fix some problems that are endemic to your setup or where you can't easily fix the model by setting an offset to create the wanted clearances in it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In Ultimaker &lt;strong&gt;Cura&lt;/strong&gt;, the option for this fix is called &lt;code&gt;Hole horizontal expansion&lt;/code&gt; since &lt;a href=&quot;https://community.ultimaker.com/topic/32187-ultimaker-cura-46-released/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;4.6 in April 2020&lt;/a&gt;, which only affects internal perimeters as I know from testing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;SuperSlicer&lt;/strong&gt;, a PrusaSlicer branch offers &lt;code&gt;hole_XY_compensation&lt;/code&gt;, though I can't quite pinpoint the time when it was added. I guesstimate sometime before &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/supermerill/SuperSlicer/commit/151ea0a39f94d383fdf17802e4e52e787a7bae46&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;October 2020&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;PrusaSlicer&lt;/strong&gt; offers &lt;code&gt;XY size compensation&lt;/code&gt;, which does affect outer perimeters. A hole-only is requested almost since that option was available the first time. An attempt to implement a hole-only compensation again appears to be &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/prusa3d/PrusaSlicer/issues/4561&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;worked on since mid-2020.&lt;/a&gt; It seems that in the beginning of March some implementation has been tested.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first work for such a function &lt;a href=&quot;https://manual.slic3r.org/troubleshooting/dimension-errors&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;was tried by &lt;strong&gt;Slic3r&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt; before PrusaSlicer was started on, using an &lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=ArcCompensation&amp;amp;action=history&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Arc-compensation formula&lt;/a&gt; in at latest 2009, but the function proved to be overcompensating. As Prusa-Slicer is a &lt;em&gt;fork&lt;/em&gt; of Slic3r, some of this work might remain in the code.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2021-03-25T10:55:32.870" LastActivityDate="2021-03-25T10:55:32.870" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15946" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2644" CreationDate="2021-03-25T12:16:17.373" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was having these issues too on a CR-10S and I worked on it for months and the only thing that would fix it was the spread, overlap, and width of the extrusion, this may also be caused by the fact that I haven't really tried to use glue stick or anything to get my prints to stick better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27496" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-03-25T13:23:02.710" LastActivityDate="2021-03-25T13:23:02.710" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15947" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2862" CreationDate="2021-03-25T14:42:15.883" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I used this solution, it makes a lot of sense, because I store the filament back in a box and the tip endup getting knotted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/lE9LchCtKL4?start=0&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27432" LastActivityDate="2021-03-25T14:42:15.883" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15948" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15935" CreationDate="2021-03-25T15:34:24.833" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The advantage to OctoPrint is that 3D prints take a long time, and Windows needs reboots.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The moment (or 4 days into it) you start a 5-day print job, there &lt;em&gt;will&lt;/em&gt; be an urgent need to reboot your Windows computer.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then your print job will be lost, and you will have to start all over.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Applications crash, windows update needs to reboot, and a host of dozens of other reasons all surface when you start printing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Eventually, Windows will force a reboot or you will get a blue screen of death from Windows, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The OctoPi and/or OctoPrint run on a Linux-based OS that just works.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It never crashes, or at least I have never had it crash.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you have a 5-day print, reliability is &lt;em&gt;king&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, it should be noted with a Cura plugin you can send the print directly to OctoPrint. I do this &lt;em&gt;all&lt;/em&gt; the time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Plus they're a number of handy community support plug-ins for OctoPrint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition, because it's not attached to my computer directly there is one less cable to trip on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16395" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2021-03-29T05:20:16.280" LastActivityDate="2021-03-29T05:20:16.280" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15949" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15935" CreationDate="2021-03-25T17:39:41.753" Score="4" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have read that if I disconnect OctoPrint when printing, the print will stop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can disconnect your computer from the OctoPrint server while printing and the print will continue just fine. You cannot disconnect the OctoPrint server from the printer without interrupting the print, of course.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since I thought the advantage of OctoPrint over, say, printing from Cura, was that it didn't tie up the computer while the print was taking place, what are the advantages of OctoPrint?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The advantage (the one you're talking about, anyway) of printing via OctoPrint (which you can also do via Cura, btw) is that you don't have to tie up the computer that you're using for other things. You run OctoPrint on some &lt;em&gt;other&lt;/em&gt; computer that can stay connected to the printer. Typically, a Raspberry Pi is used; they're cheap (~$30), and there's an &lt;a href=&quot;https://octoprint.org/download/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;OctoPi&lt;/a&gt; distribution that's practically a turnkey solution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other advantages of OctoPrint include:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;stores your .stl files, either on the print server or on the printer's SD card&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;enables remote monitoring, including a webcam feed&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;lets you control your printer from any device with a web browser&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;provides a plugin mechanism (and a large variety of &lt;a href=&quot;https://plugins.octoprint.org&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;plugins&lt;/a&gt;) to extend its capabilities&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1690" LastActivityDate="2021-03-25T17:39:41.753" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15950" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15323" CreationDate="2021-03-25T21:16:18.730" Score="13" Body="&lt;h1&gt;Too Hot&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're printing too hot (with any filament, not just PLA) you're going to see stringing and blobs/oozing because the material is getting runny and exiting the nozzle in an uncontrolled manner. Because it's uncontrolled, you will also likely see artifacts showing up in your prints.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might also see your filament burning. Instead of coming out of the nozzle as whatever color it should be, it will look brown or discolored because it was overcooked.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your bed is too hot, you might start to see &amp;quot;elephant's feet&amp;quot; where the lowest layer(s) are being heated to the point of becoming soft and the weight of layers on top of them are pushing down, causing that layer to &amp;quot;pooch out.&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might also have problems removing the print from the print bed's surface because the plastic has seeped into the details of the print surface and hardened, essentially welding the part to the surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Too Cold&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're printing filament that is too cold, you're going to run into an issue where the material being pushed into the hot end is not getting melted sufficiently. This means that pressure will build up in the hot end that can't be released through extruding material through the nozzle. If you've ever tried to pipe frosting using a bag/tip and the frosting was too thick, you'll know what I'm talking about.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When material is being fed into the hot end but not being allowed to flow out of it, something has to give. That thing is your extruder. It has a wheel with little teeth on it to grip the filament and feed it into the hot end (or bowden tube which leads to the hot end). It can exert a certain amount of force on that filament. When the hot end's back pressure builds to the point that it becomes greater than the extruder's force, it will start skipping.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Imagine trying to push a large, heavy object. Your feet will begin to slip as your the force of your exertion overcomes the friction between your feet and the ground. That's what will happen to your extruder. It will make clicking/clunking noises as the extruder unsuccessfully tries to push the filament through and the friction between the teeth of the gear and the filament is overcome. This is called grinding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your bed is too cold, you simply just end up with problems getting the print to adhere to the surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Warping&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In your particular case, you're describing warping. Remember from physics 101 that cold things contract and warm things expand. Your print bed is warm, and so, too, are the first layers that are near it because the bed's heat is transferring up into them and keeping them warm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously, your active (topmost) layer will also be a bit warmer as it as just come out of the hot end. However, in general as you move higher up away from the printed bed, the printed layers get colder. Because they are getting colder, they are undergoing thermal contraction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This creates a thermal gradient where layers go from greater thermal expansion to greater thermal contraction. The combination means that the bottom of the print will start to curl up (away from the expansion and towards the contraction).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;This is not an issue with your printing temperature. It's a problem with your ambient temperature.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The easiest way to fix this issue is to put your printer in an enclosure. This isolates the air immediately around the printer from the rest of the air in the room. Because your heater's bed and nozzle are throwing out a lot of heat, they will heat up the print chamber quite a bit (mine typically runs over 30 degrees celsius, even in the dead of winter).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because the ambient temperature in the print chamber is so much warmer than the outside air, that temperature gradient is much, much smaller. As a result, warping will stop becoming a problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16811" LastActivityDate="2021-03-25T21:16:18.730" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15951" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-03-25T22:37:17.477" Score="2" ViewCount="659" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am using a BLTouch clone (3DTouch), and with &lt;code&gt;G28&lt;/code&gt; and &lt;code&gt;G29&lt;/code&gt; in Simplify3D it auto-detects Z home right in the center of the bed and afterward it measures 9 grid points. For most of my printings, this is great, except for a special one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This special one consists of one first print with a thin drawing and a second print on top of that drawing (obviously with the gap matching the drawing).&#xA;&lt;code&gt;G28&lt;/code&gt; and &lt;code&gt;G29&lt;/code&gt; are not an issue for the drawing print, but for the second print where the nozzle must not touch the center (since it would ruin the drawing and would measure a wrong Z home and a wrong Z probe point there).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So is there a G-code that indicates the printer to select Z home on a different position (determined by X and Y coordinates, outside the drawing) and to eliminate the central point of the grid (leaving the remaining 8 points)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously, I can't change the firmware every time that I print that special figure, so it must be through a script.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is an example of the print, the very first layer:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ik3hl.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ik3hl.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Print 1: 0,4 mm layer of blue&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Print 2: 0,4 mm layer of green&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Print 3: Much thicker and bigger print of white filament that prints around the previous prints during the first 2 layers and start covering all by the third layer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Imagine a box cover with a drawing on top. The first layers of each print must be as smooth and nice as possible as is it the visible one. I was doing this manually before installing the BLTouch with very good results, the drawing gets embedded in the final printing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27502" LastEditorUserId="27502" LastEditDate="2021-03-26T13:04:41.677" LastActivityDate="2021-03-26T13:04:41.677" Title="3DTouch: G-code to temporarily change probe points and Z home?" Tags="|g-code|bltouch|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15952" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15953" CreationDate="2021-03-26T11:08:20.213" Score="10" ViewCount="49295" Body="&lt;p&gt;Various methods to scan the top surface exist to improve the bed adhesion to prevent prints to come loose from the bed during printing: e.g. BLTouch and clones or inductive and capacitive sensors/probes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In order, for the print head, to use this so-called auto-bed leveling (ABL) you need to add the &lt;code&gt;G29&lt;/code&gt; command in your start G-code of your slicer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it necessary to call &lt;code&gt;G29&lt;/code&gt; before every print?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;The rationale behind this is that scanning the surface takes up some time, certainly on very short prints, it would be great if the surface geometry could be saved.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-03-27T22:32:59.763" LastActivityDate="2021-08-23T23:32:05.223" Title="Using auto-bed leveling, do I need to initiate G29 before every print?" Tags="|g-code|bed-leveling|z-probe|knowledgebase|inductive-sensor|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15953" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15952" CreationDate="2021-03-26T11:08:20.213" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, it is not necessary to call &lt;code&gt;G29&lt;/code&gt; before every print to &amp;quot;auto level the bed&amp;quot;&lt;sup&gt; &lt;em&gt;1)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/sup&gt; provided that:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the bed surface has not changed (e.g. large load or force has been exerted on the build platform, leveling screws are accidentally adjusted, a substantial different bed temperature is used causing different thermal stresses, etc.),&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the carriage of the hotend is stable (some printers, e.g. the cantilever type, or single side Z lead screw driven printers are more prone to an unstable or level axis), and&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the scanned surface geometry is saved in the controller board memory.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are several solutions to solve this. You could manually run the &lt;code&gt;G29&lt;/code&gt; command once in a while storing the scanned surface with an &lt;code&gt;M500&lt;/code&gt; command  to save the mesh to the EEPROM (memory) of the controller board (this can be done from the printer controller display for Marlin operated printers, an interface like a &lt;a href=&quot;/q/10573/&quot;&gt;terminal&lt;/a&gt; or a print server application, or from pre-stored &lt;code&gt;.g&lt;/code&gt;/G-code files on an SD card). If you use the SD-card, note that it is possible to &lt;a href=&quot;/a/6740/&quot;&gt;auto-launch G-code files&lt;/a&gt; from the root of the SD-card upon inserting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do note to remove the &lt;code&gt;G29&lt;/code&gt; command in the start code of the slicer. The &lt;code&gt;G29&lt;/code&gt; command needs to be replaced with &lt;a href=&quot;https://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M420.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;code&gt;M420 S1&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/a&gt; for Marlin firmware operated printers. This command will load the saved mesh at the start of the print from memory. This is especially useful when using a large amount of probing points (e.g. a large bed mesh using a 10 x 10 mesh of 100 probing points, to ensure the mesh is up-to-date, once in a while initiate the scanning sequence to store an updated mesh).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;&lt;em&gt;1)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/sup&gt; &lt;em&gt;Please note that auto-bed leveling might be confusingly indicating that some magic leveling of the build platform/surface itself is taking place (this is also possible in Marlin when there are multiple Z steppers and lead screws used), but, that is not actually what is meant with this phrasing. The &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/16605&quot;&gt;process of the auto-bed leveling&lt;/a&gt; actually scans the surface of the build surface and compensates the height of the print head/nozzle during a predefined printing height (usually 10 mm, set in the firmware or through G-code: &lt;code&gt;M420 Z10 ; Gradually reduce compensation until Z=10&lt;/code&gt;), during this printing process the nozzle gradually be less and less compensated until there is no compensation and the print nozzle will print parallel to the guide axis (e.g. the X-axis in i3 style printers and X-Y axes in CoreXY kinematics printers.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-08-23T20:21:07.803" LastActivityDate="2021-08-23T20:21:07.803" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15954" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-03-26T11:45:29.077" Score="3" ViewCount="3042" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've updated my Ender 3 with V4.2.7 mainboard, BLTouch and 400XL kit (extends the capabilities of your Creality Ender 3 3D Printer to a 400 mm X, 400 mm Y and a 500 mm Z printing platform). Now I need to update the firmware. YouTube did not provide any help: i.e.: out of date, so cryptic as to be unusable. Marlin &amp;amp; Creality had overly complicated, for what I need, solutions. Trying these led only to frustrations! Any ideas?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27509" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-04-11T06:00:21.490" LastActivityDate="2021-04-11T06:39:35.483" Title="How do I update my firmware after installing a 400XL kit on my Ender 3" Tags="|creality-ender-3|firmware|400xl|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15955" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15972" CreationDate="2021-03-26T14:42:01.453" Score="3" ViewCount="2524" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm new to the 3D printing world and got my first Ender 3 (with the 32-bit controller board).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a problem with every single print. I've upgraded to the newest Marlin firmware, did the mesh leveling then started printing and fix the Z bed option in &amp;quot;Tune - Z bed&amp;quot; during the print (so the first layer is perfect). Please note that I save all the data of the mesh before end of the print. Then, when I start the same print again, the nozzle height is wrong. This happens every single print. The strange thing is that I need to adjust the height differently after every print. Like, the first print was -0.055 mm, second print was 0.30 mm, then it was +0.25 mm somehow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I really like to print without these constant adjustments.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27512" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-03-26T15:22:53.410" LastActivityDate="2021-03-29T15:34:57.647" Title="Nozzle height adjusting for every print" Tags="|creality-ender-3|bed-leveling|z-axis|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15956" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15954" CreationDate="2021-03-26T19:09:54.437" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've done the board upgrade on my Ender 3 Pro. As I've read the BLTouch is easy to install. I'd go over to the Creality &lt;a href=&quot;https://forums.creality3dofficial.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;forum/help&lt;/a&gt; site. You can open a support ticket.  They actively have information on firmware in both &amp;quot;release&amp;quot; and &amp;quot;beta&amp;quot; threads.  Look there &amp;amp; see if you can get your answers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15005" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-03-27T02:04:50.303" LastActivityDate="2021-03-27T02:04:50.303" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15957" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15954" CreationDate="2021-03-26T21:46:29.660" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Without knowing exactly which Youtube videos you've looked at, I think where I would start is by downloading the latest Marlin Fimrware and configuration files for the Ender 3 with 4.2.7 board:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/archive/2.0.x.zip&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Latest Release of Marlin Firmware on Github&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Configurations/tree/release-2.0.7.2/config/examples/Creality/Ender-3%20V2&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Configuration File Repository on Github&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://code.visualstudio.com/download&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Microsoft visual Studio&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://platformio.org/install/ide?install=vscode&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;PlatormIO&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I were doing your upgrade in your place, I would refer to &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=neS7lB7fCww&amp;amp;t=495s&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this video&lt;/a&gt; for how to compile the firmware for the correct board. I've had to compile firmware for my Ender 3 a few times and I sometimes forget a step. This video is the best that I've found for showing/reminding me of each step.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Essentially, what I think you need to do is compile your firmware as if it were a stock Ender 3 V2 using the settings files I linked above but then change your print area the configuration.h file to match the X400 x Y400 x Z500 print bed area.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Look for the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;// The size of the print bed&#xA;#define X_BED_SIZE 200&#xA;#define Y_BED_SIZE 200&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Change to the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;// The size of the print bed&#xA;#define X_BED_SIZE 400&#xA;#define Y_BED_SIZE 400&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And then look for&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#define Z_MAX_POS 200&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and change to:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#define Z_MAX_POS 500&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are other changes you'd need to make to the settings file (refer to the video for those). I haven't done your particular upgrade on my machine, so I'm just guessing those extra couple of changes would work for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16811" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-03-27T06:40:02.723" LastActivityDate="2021-03-27T06:40:02.723" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15958" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15954" CreationDate="2021-03-27T08:59:15.547" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Shortly after my post I found &lt;a href=&quot;https://marlin.crc.id.au/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this commercial Marlin site&lt;/a&gt;&lt;sup&gt; &lt;em&gt;1)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;. It offers firmware for Creality &amp;amp; other printers. You can order 'off the shelf' firmware or customize it yourself. Customizing is quite easy &amp;amp; self explanatory; 5 min. after submitting my requirements, I received a zip file, which I un-zipped &amp;amp; copied the needed file to my SD card. Then I inserted the SD card into my printer &amp;amp; started it. The printer recognized the new firmware &amp;amp; updated its self.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;&lt;em&gt;1)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/sup&gt; &lt;em&gt;This service is not free. Membership of \$15.00/year, is required.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27509" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-03-27T10:48:31.433" LastActivityDate="2021-03-27T10:48:31.433" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15960" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15955" CreationDate="2021-03-27T16:38:31.807" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds like your bed is unstable. This is what I had to do with my Tronxy X1, and I fixed it by installing a decent bed stabiliser. Now that I have a stable bed, I only have to re-level it occasionally. However, the Tronxy X1 is a cantilever printer with a single rail for the bed, not an Ender 3.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would suggest that you tighten the bed-levelling springs as far as they will go whilst still leaving sufficient movement for bed levelling, and re-position the end-stop switch. Then re-level the bed. If that doesn't work, try fitting stiffer springs. Upgrades are available for the Ender 3. If that still doesn't work, look for bed stabilisation solutions for your printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note also that the bed-levelling knobs have a reputation for coming loose on the Ender 3. Tightening the springs (or fitting stiffer springs) may cure this, but some users fit locking nuts to stop the knobs moving.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3953" LastEditorUserId="3953" LastEditDate="2021-03-27T17:08:54.063" LastActivityDate="2021-03-27T17:08:54.063" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15961" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15887" CreationDate="2021-03-27T17:16:53.623" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Install an overhead vent, like those you would have above your stove, to direct fumes and micro-filaments away from the area. You could alternatively use a box fan with a thin air filter attached to it, but the idea is to draw those fumes away from the room.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27523" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2021-04-28T07:50:13.717" LastActivityDate="2021-04-28T07:50:13.717" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15962" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15690" CreationDate="2021-03-28T08:37:59.093" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I ran into the same problem. After looking into the pin layout for the board I saw the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#elif EXTRUDERS &amp;lt;= 2&#xA;  // Hijack the last extruder so that we can get the PWM signal off the Y breakout&#xA;  // Move Y to the E2 plug. This makes dual Y steppers harder&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This prompted me to move the stepper driver and the motor cable to the E2 connector on the board. (The one on the other side of the X connector, Order is Z,Y,X,E2,E1,E0)&#xA;That worked for me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, you could move the stepper driver and motor cable. Or you could commment/remove that code from the pins_MEGATRONICS_3.h file&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27524" LastActivityDate="2021-03-28T08:37:59.093" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15965" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15888" CreationDate="2021-03-28T19:01:30.493" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;While the following doesn't conclusively prove changing the motor would work, I think the answer is yes! And I achieved the desired result via a different method, so I consider the problem solved.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Instead of changing the motor, I designed a 1:4 step-up planetary gearbox to put on top of the extruder motor, yielding a 10:1 net reduction instead of the original 40:1. This works, even without much attention to part strength or backlash in the gearbox (thanks to the subsequent 40:1 reduction), yielding the desired sub-50ms retractions with PLA. This seems to establish that the rotational rate or acceleration of the flex shaft is not a limiting factor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One thing I noticed after adding my gearbox is that, even after scaling up the extruder speed and acceleration to 4x the values I was using without the gearbox, the stepper motor did not make the sharp &amp;quot;chirp&amp;quot;/&amp;quot;squeal&amp;quot; sound on retractions that I got before. This seemed odd, because it should be the same speed/acceleration for the output shaft and slightly higher load than before. So I think there may be something other than just exceeding the stepper's capabilities going on with the original configuration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The manufacturer's recommended (provided STL files) coupling of the motor to the flex shaft is this long rigid coupler and guide cap:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fbxUZ.png&quot; alt=&quot;coupler&quot; /&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rPFQF.png&quot; alt=&quot;motor cap&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That looks like a suspiciously long lever on the motor output shaft. And while the cap retains the flex cable sheath fairly rigidly, it can't be perfectly aligned with the motor shaft, and there's room for the flex shaft to move slightly side to side inside the sheath. So, my guess is that spinning the flex shaft at high speeds with it directly coupled to the motor like this put some serious lateral forces on the motor output shaft, interfering with the motor's performance and likely leading to long-term damage if not corrected.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The gearbox I added avoids extending the motor shaft at all (the planetary gear carrier slides fully over the D-shaft) and the small amount of backlash in the gears themselves allows the flex shaft positioning to be imprecise with (apparently) no serious ill effects. And if it does cause unwanted wear, well these are printed parts that are easily replaceable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for the 40:1 reduction in the extruder itself, after working with all of this to get it printing well, I don't think it's necessarily a wrong design. The flex shaft can handle the speeds needed just fine, and the 40:1 reduction keeps torque from the extruder gear off of it while extruding. The Zesty Nimble (which some call a clone of this design) used 30:1 instead of 40:1, and has dropped to 20:1 in their latest iteration, probably for reasons related to my troubles with the 40:1. But I think the gearbox at the motor side is actually a rather nice solution that preserves all of the potentially good properties of the high reduction and none of the bad ones. It does make the setup more complicated to manufacture and install though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastEditorUserId="11157" LastEditDate="2021-03-29T13:31:16.223" LastActivityDate="2021-03-29T13:31:16.223" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15966" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16116" CreationDate="2021-03-29T00:01:48.050" Score="5" ViewCount="6301" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have just acquired my first 3D printer, a BIQU B1. Overall I'm quite pleased with the printing results but I'm having minor defects on the Benchy test. I'm not sure what the problem is, but I guess it's related to the overhang and maybe vibrations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My print settings are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Software: Ultimaker Cura&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Temp: 205 °C&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Heatbed temp: 60 °C&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Height: 0.2 mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Print speed: 60 mm/s&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Travel speed: 150 mm/s&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Flow: 94 %&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PAFSA.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Imperfections in Benchy - front&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PAFSA.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Imperfections in Benchy - front&quot; title=&quot;Imperfections in Benchy - front&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ob3Za.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Imperfections in Benchy - rear&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ob3Za.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Imperfections in Benchy - rear&quot; title=&quot;Imperfections in Benchy - rear&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7tYI7.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Imperfections in Benchy - side&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7tYI7.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Imperfections in Benchy - side&quot; title=&quot;Imperfections in Benchy - side&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27546" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2021-04-17T17:41:46.643" LastActivityDate="2021-05-16T16:14:30.347" Title="How to improve this Benchy? BIQU B1" Tags="|pla|troubleshooting|biqu-b1|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15968" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15274" CreationDate="2021-03-29T05:49:27.620" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not sure if you're still actively working on this but my setup mirrors yours almost perfectly, I added an all metal extruder, Micro Swiss hotend, a BLTouch, yellow bed springs and Capricorn tube and got great results but needed more cooling so I changed to the Hero Me Gen 5 using 2 5015 blowers and a Noctua 40x20 fan with a buck converter set to 12 V and noticed I had shifting so I printed 35 mm standoffs and wired another Noctua fan, 80x25. It helped reduce shifting but still not perfect and I as well has combed through every possible issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27549" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-03-29T06:34:41.900" LastActivityDate="2021-03-29T06:34:41.900" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15969" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15939" CreationDate="2021-03-29T08:56:09.153" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In OpenSCAD you could create a bevel using the minkowski transformation by transforming the curve using tapered shape such as a pyramid or as I do below a tapered cylinder:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;minkowski() {&#xA;&#xA;  linear_extrude(1)&#xA;    import(&amp;quot;drawing.svg&amp;quot;);&#xA;  &#xA;  cylinder(h = 20, r1 = 10, r2 = 1); &#xA;}&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fm0G4.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fm0G4.png&quot; alt=&quot;Example result in OpenSCAD&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27551" LastActivityDate="2021-03-29T08:56:09.153" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15970" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15973" CreationDate="2021-03-29T12:24:22.243" Score="4" ViewCount="1082" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am designing some parts that should modular fit together. I am currently exploring a Lego-like design with octagonal holes and cylindrical pins.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I notice that (depending on the amount of clearance) that the fit is initially tight (to the extent that the pieces are very difficult to remove from each other), but that after a few dozen times connecting and disconnecting the parts the fit becomes very loose. I am currently using PLA. With what material would this occur less quickly/is more resistant to this kind of wear?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The sizes of the pins/holes are slightly bigger than Lego (probably similar to Duplo). Don't think that snap-fit would work in that size. Below of a picture of one of the test pieces (this one later printed in PETG).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uePVE.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uePVE.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have an open printer so I prefer materials that don't require me to build an enclosure first. It is a Prusa i3 MK3S: Direct drive; 1.75 mm filament; max temp 300 °C; heat bed max temp 120 °C.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27551" LastEditorUserId="27551" LastEditDate="2021-03-31T12:24:18.333" LastActivityDate="2021-03-31T14:41:33.383" Title="What material best to use for press fit parts?" Tags="|filament-choice|press-fit|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15971" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15935" CreationDate="2021-03-29T13:47:09.997" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are some answers here talking about reliability of an OctoPrint installation vs Windows, but they only tell part of the story. These days, Windows can be pretty reliable, too. If I &lt;em&gt;really&lt;/em&gt; cared about reliability, I'd use the SD card method, which takes other computers out of the equation completely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Instead, the advantage of OctoPrint comes down to two things:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You set it up on a &lt;strong&gt;dedicated computer&lt;/strong&gt; that is &lt;em&gt;not used for other things&lt;/em&gt;. Something like a cheap Raspberry Pi. This is what is really responsible for improving reliability over printing from your desktop/laptop. It's not about using linux over Windows as much as making sure &lt;em&gt;absolutely nothing else&lt;/em&gt; will interfere with the computer for the duration of the print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;OctoPrint is designed explicitly for printing and managing prints. It's not just an add-on or feature of another product whose main purpose is slicing, as when you print from Cura, but a platform in its own right with support for plug-ins and extra tools for managing and monitoring your print, to extend the experience beyond what you could otherwise achieve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, OctoPrint makes it possible to check on your progress over the web, without needing to setup a dedicated web server on your day-to-day computer. Or you can manage your printer by installing an app on your phone. Or you can use OctoPrint to create time-lapse videos of your print. Or get an alert when reaching a certain layer. Or a hundred other ways you can use plug-ins to customize OctoPrint to work the way you want.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally, I use OctoPrint mainly to add wifi capability to the printer (it's not built-in for my printer), so I can start printing directly from my desk without also needing to keep the printer close enough to the computer to connect a usb cable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12562" LastEditorUserId="12562" LastEditDate="2021-03-29T16:00:07.343" LastActivityDate="2021-03-29T16:00:07.343" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15972" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15955" CreationDate="2021-03-29T15:34:57.647" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Thanks everybody for their help, but apparently it was a slicer/software/gcode (i don't really know :D) issue...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So i just added this line M420 S1 after the G28 command to my Cura printer settings and now the nozzle height is always at the point i set before, no changing every print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope my solve will help somebody who is struggling with this too!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27512" LastActivityDate="2021-03-29T15:34:57.647" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15973" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15970" CreationDate="2021-03-29T17:50:11.793" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;A flexible material, such as PETG or ABS, is probably the best.  PLA is brittle, especially after absorbing moisture, and probably would crack under continued use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Nylon is good, but not easy to use.  With PETG in an enclosure, I end up running fans to avoid heat creep; so PETG may actually do better without an enclosure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're printing to flex your print, keep in mind the the x and y axes are stronger than the z-axis, which depends on how well the layers stick together.   PETG tends to stick to the print surface too well; so I use an Elmer's glue stick for it to pull up the glue layer instead of damaging my print surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15075" LastEditorUserId="15075" LastEditDate="2021-03-30T21:50:41.363" LastActivityDate="2021-03-30T21:50:41.363" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15974" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-03-29T20:05:42.060" Score="3" ViewCount="422" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd like to buy a 3D printer and use it as a &amp;quot;platform&amp;quot; for an &lt;strong&gt;external&lt;/strong&gt; optical sensor. The idea is to mount an optical sensor on the Z-axis and to put a workpiece on the X-Y table.  Now, I'd like to move the sensor across the workpiece and trigger the measurement of the optical sensor. Hence, the 3D printer is not actually printing, but only used as a motion and trigger device for the optical sensors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have never used a 3D printer, but I'm afraid that I'll run into several problems:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The standard G-code of &amp;quot;wait one second&amp;quot; is &lt;code&gt;G04 X1&lt;/code&gt; on many CNC machines. Does this code exist on 3D printers as well?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is it possible to extract a trigger signal (e.g. 5 V) from the 3D printer? Are printers available which provide a G-code for an external trigger? Could anybody suggest a model? I'm happy to pay some extra dollars if I don't have to solder by myself. Of course, a second option would be to use the voltage, which is used to heat the filament.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27560" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-03-29T22:13:15.400" LastActivityDate="2021-03-29T22:13:15.400" Title="Use external sensor" Tags="|g-code|linear-motion|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15975" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15974" CreationDate="2021-03-29T20:44:33.303" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/G004.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;G4&lt;/a&gt; is the &amp;quot;Dwell&amp;quot; command in Marlin, so you could specify a wait duration using it. Note that the time parameter is designated using S for seconds and/or P for milliseconds:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;G4 S1    ; Wait for 1 second&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think you could use the &lt;a href=&quot;https://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M043-T.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;M43 T code&lt;/a&gt; to set a pin high/low and act as a trigger signal. This would be coded for and not something that is done as a result of something detected, however:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;M43 T S3 R1 W1000    ; Toggle pin 3 once and then wait for a second&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16811" LastActivityDate="2021-03-29T20:44:33.303" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15976" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15974" CreationDate="2021-03-29T20:53:10.610" Score="3" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The standard G code of &amp;quot;wait one second&amp;quot; is G04 X1 on many CNC machines. Does this code exists on 3D printers as well?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Yes.&lt;/strong&gt; The exact set of commands supported by a given printer will depend on the firmware, so you should check the documentation for the particular printer you're looking at. But the &lt;code&gt;G04&lt;/code&gt; &amp;quot;Dwell&amp;quot; command is a common one. A list of all the G-code commands for the Marlin firmware, which is widely used, can be found at &lt;a href=&quot;https://marlinfw.org/meta/gcode/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://marlinfw.org/meta/gcode/&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it possible to extract a trigger signal (e.g. 5V) from the 3D printer? Are printers available which provide a G code for an external trigger?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Marlin supports an &lt;code&gt;M240&lt;/code&gt; command that means &amp;quot;trigger camera,&amp;quot; which could probably be used to trigger other sorts of devices too. See: &lt;a href=&quot;https://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M240.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M240.html&lt;/a&gt; You might also want to look into using OctoPrint to control your printer; there's a plugin (OctoLapse) for making time-lapse photos that might prove useful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1690" LastActivityDate="2021-03-29T20:53:10.610" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15978" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15970" CreationDate="2021-03-30T12:39:03.903" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;PETG, ABS and NYLON would work great for press-fit or snap-fit connections. If you really can't build a (cardboard) enclosure I would go for PETG as it has good repeatable mechanical properties and does not require an enclosure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4708" LastActivityDate="2021-03-30T12:39:03.903" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15979" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-03-30T15:25:29.243" Score="0" ViewCount="51" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is a good entry level 3D printer that you could use while earning to the next level printer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found there are so many kinds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27577" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-03-30T18:41:04.637" LastActivityDate="2021-03-30T18:41:04.637" Title="Purchasing a first 3D printer" Tags="|diy-3d-printer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2021-03-30T18:41:19.230" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15980" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15979" CreationDate="2021-03-30T18:03:57.380" Score="1" Body="&lt;h1&gt;This is going to depend on your particular wants and needs.&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Initial buy price is a big factor, obviously, but there are some other things to bear in mind:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;What are you going to use it for?&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're going to use it for printing, say, RPG miniatures, you might want to focus on SLA/DLP (resin) printer because they can produce very good detail at small sizes. But entry level SLA/DLP printers tend to have very small print areas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;FDM (filament) printers tend to have larger print areas but they don't tend to be quite as accurate when it comes to reproducing small detail. They have more material choices available to them, though: PLA, ABS, and PETG are sort of the basic three materials that an entry level printer can probably handle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;How much of a &amp;quot;tinkerer&amp;quot; are you?&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some printers are &amp;quot;open source&amp;quot; which means you are able to modify their firmware and/or hardware. For example, you might be able to upgrade the firmware and hot end of an FDM printer to allow you to print more exotic materials like nylon and PEEK.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That ability to tinker and modify your printer is great if that's the kind of thing you value. But it also means you might have to rely less on the manufacturer and more on the community if something goes wrong or you're unsure how to go about doing something with the printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;How much are you going to use it? / How much room do you have?&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The cheapest printer in the world is still too expensive if you never use it. Plus, it takes up space. This is something you really have to keep in mind: printers need space. Even if the printer itself is small, you might need to buy an enclosure for it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You probably need a workspace nearby to finish your printed parts. I think resin printers need a space to setup a UV curing lamp to fully cure the resin of the printed parts, for example. If you print more than one type of material with an FDM printer, you need a place to store those extra spools of material.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should check out 3d printing sites like those below to read their reviews because they will offer insights into things that might not even cross your mind to consider:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://all3dp.com/1/best-cheap-budget-3d-printer-affordable-under-500-1000/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;All3DP&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.3dsourced.com/3d-printers/best-cheap-3d-printer/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;3dsourced&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.zdnet.com/article/best-3d-printer-under-500-for-beginners/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;ZDnet&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.cnet.com/news/best-3d-printer/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;CNet&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.3dnatives.com/en/low-cost-3d-printer290320174/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;3Dnatives&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16811" LastActivityDate="2021-03-30T18:03:57.380" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15981" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15970" CreationDate="2021-03-30T21:07:16.350" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://thrinter.com/creep-abs-pla-petg-alloy-910/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;PLA and nylon deform over time&lt;/a&gt; under stress (&amp;quot;creep&amp;quot;), therefore they will get loose(r) and will snap less effectively together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See what happens to clips after one day of stretching (respectively nylon, PLA, PETg, ABS):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0Le7j.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0Le7j.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And if you leave them unstretched, after a while:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BxJTM.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BxJTM.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PLA permanently deforms a lot. PETG is better than PLA, but ABS or ASA are the best choice for the purpose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A material simply &amp;quot;flexible&amp;quot; is not necessarily the best choice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2338" LastEditorUserId="2338" LastEditDate="2021-03-31T08:18:57.970" LastActivityDate="2021-03-31T08:18:57.970" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15985" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-03-31T14:04:22.170" Score="4" ViewCount="16025" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've just received my Ender 3v2 and tried multiple SD cards, all have been formatted to FAT32 with no luck. Under the Print selection, all I get is the back button. I looked and I have the V4.2.2 and the firmware is up to date, Showing 1.0.2 unless this is not right and this is why I'm having this issue. Even when plugging directly into the computer, nothing is showing up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27595" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-03-31T17:24:27.983" LastActivityDate="2022-08-24T03:39:15.393" Title="Ender 3 v2 won't read or recognize any SD cards" Tags="|creality-ender-3|microsd|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15986" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15970" CreationDate="2021-03-31T14:41:33.383" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're aiming for a Lego-like snap fit, look at Lego parts to see how they work. Using the right material is important, but using it the right way is at least as important. Lego bricks are made so that the walls and tubes can deform very slightly as the studs of another brick are pushed into the brick.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The walls of the octagonal holes in your part appear to be solid. Perhaps they're not really, and underneath the surface layer there's a lesser amount of infill, but infill can provide a lot of strength, and that solid surface will prevent deformation at the entrance of the hole.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Try removing the solid bottom layers and reducing or eliminating the infill in the part so that the walls of your holes can flex more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1690" LastActivityDate="2021-03-31T14:41:33.383" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15987" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15997" CreationDate="2021-03-31T16:17:25.717" Score="2" ViewCount="611" Body="&lt;p&gt;The thermoresistor on my Anycubic Mega displays nonsense temperatures (e.g. 700 °C), since the resistor in the hotend is working fine the problem is 100 % in the board (Trigorilla RAMPS 1.4). Someone suggested switching the pin of the thermoresistor from &lt;code&gt;T0&lt;/code&gt; to &lt;code&gt;T1&lt;/code&gt;, so I soldered it this way. Now I have to cook a personalized firmware for making it work. I opened a custom firmware in VSCode but I do not know what parameter I have to change, any idea?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27597" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-03-31T17:24:39.980" LastActivityDate="2021-03-31T23:19:58.477" Title="How to change pin of thermo sensor?" Tags="|firmware|ramps-1.4|anycubic-i3-mega|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15988" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-03-31T18:31:55.663" Score="1" ViewCount="261" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was thinking about &lt;a href=&quot;https://lifehacks.stackexchange.com/questions/24627/how-to-paint-a-circle-pattern-on-a-big-piece-of-paper&quot;&gt;this question&lt;/a&gt; and thought of maybe printing a pattern-drawing roller painter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The question is: is it possible to print with an ink absorbing material that could make a paint roller possible?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;P.S: I don't own a 3D printer, nor have I any deep knowledge in this matter. I simply want to know if this is feasible, so I can start looking for someone to 3D print this for me. If it's not, knowing beforehand could spare me a lot of time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27600" LastActivityDate="2021-04-01T17:02:43.213" Title="3D print a paint roller" Tags="|print-material|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15989" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15988" CreationDate="2021-03-31T19:02:02.963" Score="1" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Not really.&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's possible to 3D print in materials like TPE that are rubbery. In theory, one could print a sheet of the pattern and then wrap that sheet around a roller. That would be expensive, though, and I doubt TPE would absorb enough paint/ink to lay down an good and even coat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As pointed out in the comments,there is one of foaming TPU filament (&lt;a href=&quot;https://colorfabb.com/varioshore-tpu-natural&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Varioshore TPU&lt;/a&gt; that might be able to achieve the kind of soft, spongy feel that a paint roller would need but it's expensive and, I suspect, soft but not particularly absorbent in the way you would need.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have no direct experience with it, though, so I can't say for sure. For the price and amount of time that would be required to get a print roller produced the way you need, I think you'd be better off buying a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.rollerwall.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;custom pattern roller/brayer&lt;/a&gt; or making one yourself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I imagine you could achieve this by getting a sheet of stamp pad foam and plotting it with a CNC cutter (or cutting it by hand) and then taping/gluing it around a tube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16811" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-04-01T06:53:59.530" LastActivityDate="2021-04-01T06:53:59.530" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15990" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-03-31T20:51:09.077" Score="3" ViewCount="527" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently got an Ender 3 Pro for my birthday, and I am having some problems with elephant's foot (as the title suggests). I have tried several fixes; lowering the print speed, changing the print micron size (quality) in my slicer, and I have also tried the masking tape trick (it definitely does not work). I want to know if there are any other ways to prevent elephant's foot on my prints. I first noticed it on a game-cartridge holder. It was four and a half millimeters thick on the bottom. I think that it could be an issue with the design, but I'm not entirely sure. I can send the specs for the design if you want to look at them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27605" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-03-31T22:15:04.980" LastActivityDate="2021-04-02T19:19:08.493" Title="Problems with elephant's foot" Tags="|print-quality|creality-ender-3|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15991" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11270" CreationDate="2021-03-31T21:01:56.340" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Personally, I have dealt with this problem myself! I messed around with the slicer a little bit, and I found that if you make the print layer height 0.15 or 0.10 mm, it will be better. The image you attached looks as though the printer was splitting a step and only printing that part. I can't think of a reason why it would do that. I also can't find anything online, so I would just play with the print settings or change the layer height until it comes out how you want it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27605" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-03-31T22:17:33.973" LastActivityDate="2021-03-31T22:17:33.973" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15992" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10339" CreationDate="2021-03-31T21:05:17.650" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have heard that adding a few pieces of masking tape to the print surface improves adhesion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27605" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-03-31T22:16:10.070" LastActivityDate="2021-03-31T22:16:10.070" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15993" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15990" CreationDate="2021-03-31T21:06:41.317" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Elephant foot on an FDM machine is typically caused by more material (filament) being present in that layer than it has space for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The most common cause of this is your z-zero is too low, so for the first layer the nozzle starts too close to the bed and the filament gets &amp;quot;squeezed&amp;quot; laterally. You can try adjusting your z-zero or z-stop to allow slightly more space, fractions of a millimeter, between the nozzle and bed for your first layer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't want to try that, or you'd like to try a different solution first, consider printing the part on a raft so that it starts raised up off the bed and away from that elephant-footing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a handful of other potential causes and factors which can make this better or worse, things like having a large footprint on the bed, but I hope the above is a quick and easy place to start.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27488" LastActivityDate="2021-03-31T21:06:41.317" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15994" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15988" CreationDate="2021-03-31T21:51:44.363" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm relatively new to 3D printing, but I know some stuff. If you really wanted to print a paint roller with a pattern, I would actually go with nylon or TPR. TPE is okay, but I find that it is less cushy. I would highly suggest buying your own printer for this project. It would be much more cost effective in not only the long run, but for testing different materials. 3D printing services get pricey, so choose your printer wisely. If you do decide to buy your own printer, I would go with an Ender 3 pro. Mine is very smooth, and has an easy-to-use interface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27605" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-03-31T22:45:51.347" LastActivityDate="2021-03-31T22:45:51.347" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15995" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15966" CreationDate="2021-03-31T22:05:02.307" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;From the Benchys, it is apparent that the temperature is quite high or that there is not enough part cooling flow. This can be seen from the sagging of unsupported overhanging structures. Considering the bow of the Benchy is quite fine, the most probable cause is the temperature, &lt;a href=&quot;/a/8013/&quot;&gt;usually with too less part cooling flow&lt;/a&gt;, the &lt;a href=&quot;/q/8012/&quot;&gt;bow shows defects&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please note that a Benchy is a gimmick that does show defects, but it isn't a calibration object, there are many other different test prints available.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2021-05-15T17:08:34.620" LastActivityDate="2021-05-15T17:08:34.620" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15996" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15990" CreationDate="2021-03-31T22:41:17.883" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Elephant's foot can be caused by different causes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Incorrect leveling or incorrect nozzle to bed distance&lt;br&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/15993/&quot;&gt;This answer&lt;/a&gt; describes that it can be caused by a too low nozzle to bed distance.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bed temperature&lt;br&gt;A too high bed temperature and weight of the print can cause bulging out of the bottom layers. This also frequently occurs as the result of an uncooled/too less cooled first layer.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Improved cooling, lowering bed temperature or adjusting nozzle to bed distance and proper leveling are the most obvious solutions to fight this problem. Other solution can be found in using chamfers on the bottom of the print (requires modifying the model) or printing on a raft, this latter solution does lead to losing the nice bottom layer finish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="12562" LastEditDate="2021-04-02T16:50:26.197" LastActivityDate="2021-04-02T16:50:26.197" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15997" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15987" CreationDate="2021-03-31T23:19:58.477" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If there are 2 slots for temperature measurements, you don't need to solder anything, just plug the thermistor from one into the other and switch pins in the firmware. This board is basically a RAMPS 1.4 board, it includes the &lt;code&gt;pins_RAMPS.h&lt;/code&gt; header file, so in order to switch the T0 with the T1 temperature port, you need to change:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;//&#xA;// Temperature Sensors&#xA;//&#xA;#ifndef TEMP_0_PIN&#xA;  #define TEMP_0_PIN                          13  // Analog Input&#xA;#endif&#xA;#ifndef TEMP_1_PIN&#xA;  #define TEMP_1_PIN                          15  // Analog Input&#xA;#endif&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;to:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;//&#xA;// Temperature Sensors&#xA;//&#xA;#ifndef TEMP_0_PIN&#xA;  #define TEMP_0_PIN                          15  // Analog Input&#xA;#endif&#xA;#ifndef TEMP_1_PIN&#xA;  #define TEMP_1_PIN                          13  // Analog Input&#xA;#endif&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2021-03-31T23:19:58.477" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15998" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15891" CreationDate="2021-04-01T07:45:00.480" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Print a filled square 2 layers thick over the whole surface of the bed and then peel off when it's still warm, so that it may take away also the previous deposits.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2338" LastActivityDate="2021-04-01T07:45:00.480" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15999" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15988" CreationDate="2021-04-01T08:59:12.720" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;While printing a &lt;em&gt;roller stamp&lt;/em&gt; or rubber-roll from a flexible material such as &lt;a href=&quot;https://all3dp.com/2/tpe-vs-tpu-flexible-filament-the-differences/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;[hard]TPU, [softer] TPE&lt;/a&gt;, or even a [super soft] foaming flexible filament is certainly possible. In any case, this would create soft, somewhat squishy prints. These prints will work quite easily as a stamp or woodblock printing stock, transferring ink from a pad to paper. The print pattern will depend a lot on how soft the stamp is: the harder, the sharper it will print. A massive roll of this material can behave akin to a rubber roll as one uses it in linoleum printing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A foaming filament might be able to take &lt;em&gt;a little&lt;/em&gt; paint in its airgaps, but it will never be as soft and contain as much paint as a foam lacquer roll - making it at best an improvised tool, or one that is chosen for a specific artistic purpose. It behaves more akin to closed-cell foam, while foam brushes and rolls from artist supply are typically open-cell ones. So if you go for a roller-stamp, you'll need to have an ink reservoir in the shape of a soaky-roller that isn't printed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To top it off, it is nearly impossible to print a hairy wall painting roller: the hairs used in them can't be achieved with common print materials and slicers at the time. Even if stringing creates hair of &lt;em&gt;similar&lt;/em&gt; dimensions, they are not affixed well enough to not get lost in the paint and can't be reliably created on demand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Notes on pricing: One of the few options for foaming print materials is colorFabb, who was the first to offer such. Most of their foaming filaments cost around &lt;a href=&quot;https://colorfabb.com/filaments/lightweight-foaming-filaments&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;50 €/kg&lt;/a&gt;, their flexible NinjaFlex costs about &lt;a href=&quot;https://colorfabb.com/filaments/ninjatek-filaments&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;80 €/kg&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2021-04-01T09:20:05.947" LastActivityDate="2021-04-01T09:20:05.947" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16000" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15891" CreationDate="2021-04-01T11:24:08.393" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can try putting it in the oven at 100 °C and then peeling it off. At that temperature it's soft as cheese.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4708" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-04-01T11:30:27.810" LastActivityDate="2021-04-01T11:30:27.810" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16003" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15988" CreationDate="2021-04-01T16:57:10.967" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It might be possible to directly print something like this, however it might not be the easiest method. Let me unpack that a bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The issue for 3D printed foams is that, even the low density foams, such as the ones from ColorFabb, still are fairly high density on the scale of foams. (they are about 50% as dense as solid filament when expanded. They are also great materials, side note, just not for this application) They are also what is called &amp;quot;closed cell&amp;quot; which means, while they have hollow spaces inside them, those spaces are closed off from each other. This makes them not very useful for things like holding paint, because the effective surface area is not substantially different from a solid part.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are alternatives, materials out there which print solid but contain a fraction of soluble material. So you print, and then post process to dissolve away those elements, resulting in a high-porosity filament. Something like Poro-lay might work. (you can find it for purchase &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.matterhackers.com/store/l/poro-lay-lay-fomm-filament-175mm/sk/MLWKN3PY&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;HERE&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There might be an easier path here though, and that would be to use 3D printing as an intermediate step. 3D print the design of the roller you want, and use it as a mouldmaster. Pour a silicone or urethane mould material over it, making yourself a mould into which you can then cast any of a wide variety of different rubber or foam materials to make your roller. 3D printing as an intermediate step, rather than end-use-part, is very very powerful in that way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With all of this, chemical compatibility between your paint and end material should be kept in mind. Some paints contain solvents which will attack various foams, plastics, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, while this is digressing from the realm of 3D printing, there is one more solution I might consider exploring. A C02 laser will cut, or engrave, the felt on most paint rollers. If you can find someone with a rotary axis who is willing, they can simply cut/engrave the felt/foam of a factory paint roller into whatever pattern you like. (this is how the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.rollerwall.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;CUSTOM RUBBER ROLLERS&lt;/a&gt; linked in @Rykara's post were made) It wouldn't actually be terribly difficult, however you'd probably want to experiment on a couple different rollers to ensure the effect is what you want.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope that helps. :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27488" LastEditorUserId="27488" LastEditDate="2021-04-01T17:02:43.213" LastActivityDate="2021-04-01T17:02:43.213" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16004" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15990" CreationDate="2021-04-01T19:24:40.977" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If bed temperature is the cause, but you need that temperature for the first layer to stick, Use that bed temperature for the firsts layer, then set the bed temperature lower for subsequent layers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15075" LastEditorUserId="15075" LastEditDate="2021-04-02T19:19:08.493" LastActivityDate="2021-04-02T19:19:08.493" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16005" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16008" CreationDate="2021-04-01T22:55:37.127" Score="2" ViewCount="765" Body="&lt;p&gt;Suddenly my prints start having small strings and I'm not sure what to do to eliminate them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have already tried to clean the filament tube, cleaned up the nozzle, and played with various retraction settings. Nothing seems to work and I still see these small strings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uweHt.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;3D print showing stringing&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uweHt.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;3D print showing stringing&quot; title=&quot;3D print showing stringing&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any idea how I can eliminate it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27639" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2022-02-05T22:06:12.843" LastActivityDate="2022-02-05T22:06:12.843" Title="Ender 3 - Tiny strings in print" Tags="|creality-ender-3|print-quality|troubleshooting|stringing|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16007" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16005" CreationDate="2021-04-02T02:25:25.760" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;What you're seeing does not look like &lt;em&gt;stringing&lt;/em&gt;, which I would characterize as material that exited the nozzle after extrusion was supposed to have stopped, usually due to missing or insufficient retraction, but like the extrusions along the concave contours &lt;em&gt;failed to bond&lt;/em&gt; to the previous layer and got drawn across to a point on the other side of the contour where some degree of adhesion resumed. This happens when the lateral acceleration force of going around the curve overcomes the bonding of the new material to the existing material it's being laid down against, and in my experience it's always the result of &lt;strong&gt;moisture-contaminated filament&lt;/strong&gt;. This matches your description of the problem has something that &amp;quot;suddenly&amp;quot; started happening.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To fix it, dry your filament. If your bed is big enough, the easiest way to do this is to lay the whole spool on the heated bed covered by a cardboard filament box with one side cut out to make a heat chamber, and running the bed heater at around 60-70°C (for PLA) for several hours, flipping the spool a few times during it. You can also use an oven but I would not trust the temperature control not to shoot up high enough to ruin the filament. If you want a less hackish solution, all sorts of specialized filament drying systems are available but I don't have experience with any to recommend. I just use my bed for PLA and oven for materials that can withstand higher temperatures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2021-04-02T02:25:25.760" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16008" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16005" CreationDate="2021-04-02T08:46:02.233" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;These artifacts can be either moisture, as explored by &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/16007/8884&quot;&gt;this answer&lt;/a&gt; or problems with temperature/speed control or the Z-Axis:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the temperature is not hot enough, the filament might not get melted enough to squish down to the next layer nicely at the speed the head moves at, resulting in the cooling filament getting dragged behind the printhead and forming a line in the air. Due to such errors I generally tend to print PLA more in the upper temperatures than where it barely liquifies.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This also can happen if the printhead is not on the right Z-height and the gap is larger than expected. Usually, this happens only at the lowest layer when you are unlevel (bad bed adhesion is the result), but if you bump the printer or it hooks on something, during Z-travel, it can result in such a mechanical problem. Other reasons that show the same pattern are uneven Z-Axis movement. For example, a loose gantry or a defective Z-rod can lead to it, as could bad firmware or a worn-out motor that &lt;em&gt;lost&lt;/em&gt; a coil or two.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2021-04-03T07:36:01.767" LastActivityDate="2021-04-03T07:36:01.767" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16009" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16012" CreationDate="2021-04-02T10:01:41.570" Score="1" ViewCount="417" Body="&lt;p&gt;Recently I bought a printer and failed to find Cura 4.8 settings for it (both in application both myself). My printer Zonestar Z6FB&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Currently I doubt in:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;G-code flavor&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;All printhead settings excluding extruder number (which is obviously 1 in my case)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Start/End G-code&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xQt6D.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xQt6D.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Add printer image to eye trap someone who also interested&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mXFO6.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mXFO6.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21067" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-04-03T22:04:24.863" LastActivityDate="2021-04-03T22:04:24.863" Title="Could anyone please provode me settings for Custom FFF for Zonestar Z6FB printer" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16010" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8439" CreationDate="2021-04-02T11:17:50.160" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;My Man, The Ender 3 Marlin firmware saves your E-Steps on the SD Card and you basically have to check the E-Steps every startup because the Firmware sets back the E-Steps Value every shutdown to the minimum 93. Thats a known issue of the Enders and still on the Mk.3 aka Ender 3v2 present. It's an easy fix.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27643" LastEditorUserId="30720" LastEditDate="2021-08-21T21:24:58.593" LastActivityDate="2021-08-21T21:24:58.593" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16011" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6522" CreationDate="2021-04-02T11:49:33.800" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Using Cura 4.8&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FEkYR.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FEkYR.png&quot; alt=&quot;https://puu.sh/HuLkR/085842df24.png&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;5% infill&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the &lt;strong&gt;Support Blocker&lt;/strong&gt; button:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/n9lJO.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Support blocker button&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/n9lJO.png&quot; alt=&quot;Support Blocker button&quot; title=&quot;Support blocker button&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Drop anywhere on bed, then resize and move like any model, make sure to turn off uniform scaling&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With support blocker selected, then click the &lt;strong&gt;Mesh Type&lt;/strong&gt; button:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cQ10p.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Mesh Type button&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cQ10p.png&quot; alt=&quot;Mesh Type button&quot; title=&quot;Mesh Type button&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Modify settings for overlaps&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Select settings&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Type infill in the search&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Select infill density&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1LmCH.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1LmCH.png&quot; alt=&quot;https://puu.sh/HuLAu/926ffa4208.png&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Infill density has now been changed to 100% for selected part only.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27644" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2021-04-22T17:33:08.527" LastActivityDate="2021-04-22T17:33:08.527" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16012" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16009" CreationDate="2021-04-02T12:58:29.260" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;After some pain, I figured out that if you are a poor Ubuntu/Linux user you should only use the AppImage version of Cura which you can download from &lt;a href=&quot;https://ultimaker.com/software/ultimaker-cura&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;official website&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next, make the file you downloaded executable &lt;code&gt;chmod +x *.AppImage&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next, start it from terminal or by clicking in navigator&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ok, proceed as is and then &lt;strong&gt;Help&lt;/strong&gt; ▶ &lt;strong&gt;Show Configuration Folder&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It will show 2 folders we need &lt;code&gt;~/.local/share/cura/4.8&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ok now download &lt;code&gt;ZONESTAR_Cura_Resources.zip&lt;/code&gt; from &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.jianguoyun.com/p/DZIXy4UQyoP1BxjLstUD&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then copy all files from ZONESTAR_Cura_Resources TO &lt;code&gt;~/.local/share/cura/4.8&lt;/code&gt; but remember that directory structure is messed up but can be figured out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21067" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-04-03T22:02:35.207" LastActivityDate="2021-04-03T22:02:35.207" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16013" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-04-02T17:58:47.210" Score="2" ViewCount="1655" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am a beginning maker using an Ender 3. Someone sent me a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2024992&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;.obj file&lt;/a&gt; from Thingiverse to print for them. I use an online slicer called &lt;a href=&quot;https://icesl.loria.fr/slicecrafter/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;IceSL&lt;/a&gt; as a slicer.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;As experts on here know, I cannot use my slicer to slice .obj to G-code. How do I convert this .obj file to a .stl file so I can slice and then print it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27648" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-04-02T19:53:08.270" LastActivityDate="2021-04-02T20:14:35.507" Title="How to convert .obj file to .stl so I can slice to G-code?" Tags="|slicing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16014" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16013" CreationDate="2021-04-02T20:14:35.507" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;One can import an OBJ file into free program Meshmixer, then export it to STL format. There are other programs that are free and paid (such as Fusion 360) that will perform similar tasks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As noted by user agarza, Prusa Slicer will import an OBJ and will also export to STL format. PrusaSlicer is also free.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastActivityDate="2021-04-02T20:14:35.507" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16015" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-04-02T23:06:15.860" Score="2" ViewCount="205" Body="&lt;p&gt;The model of the test part is perfectly smooth and exported/sliced in very high resolution, yet there are slight waves on both axis. These waves are not visible in simulation. Converting to arcs via Arc-Welder does not change anything. No stuttering due to the high resolution of G-code (as it's a 32-bit board).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As there are no stops, and speed is uniform - I expect no ringing. What could be the cause?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ghost4 printer, SKR-PRO board with Marlin bugfix-2.0.x.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/U4Jmq.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Example print&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/U4Jmq.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Example print&quot; title=&quot;Example print&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18565" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2021-04-03T05:30:48.560" LastActivityDate="2022-10-29T11:05:20.617" Title="What could cause these slight waves on the print?" Tags="|marlin|print-quality|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16016" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16026" CreationDate="2021-04-03T07:46:59.000" Score="3" ViewCount="2651" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have following G-code to prime the nozzle before start of the print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;G28 ; home all axes&#xA;G0 Z5 F5000 ; lift nozzle&#xA;G0 X30; move to X30&#xA;G28 Y; home Y&#xA;M420 S1; turn on bed leveling&#xA;M109 S220; wait for hotend temperature&#xA;G1 E20 F1800; extrude filament 20mm&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The idea is to extrude a strand of filament outside of the bed and then start the print. The strand catches on the bed a tears off. So the ooze does not mess up the first layer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem is that the &lt;code&gt;G1 E20 F1800&lt;/code&gt; does not wait for the move to finish and the controller goes to next move immediately. This means the nozzle is going to start the first layer, while spewing filament along the way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a way to wait for the move to finish?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have tried &lt;code&gt;M400&lt;/code&gt; which seems not to help. I'm using Marlin Firmware.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10972" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-04-03T21:55:29.847" LastActivityDate="2021-04-04T06:00:26.403" Title="G-code wait for extrude command to finish" Tags="|marlin|g-code|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16017" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16018" CreationDate="2021-04-03T08:45:19.673" Score="2" ViewCount="2027" Body="&lt;p&gt;In slicer G-code is it possible to set the probe Z offset for the first layer only?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For my stock E3 plate I find -4.125 mm best however for glass I need to go to -4.175 mm for the first layer to get better adhesion. So it's a manual process every time. Any way to tell the slicer do the first layer at -4.175 mm and next ones at -4.125 mm?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26448" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-04-03T09:24:23.130" LastActivityDate="2021-04-04T15:57:39.417" Title="First layer Z-offset in G-code" Tags="|creality-ender-3|g-code|bltouch|z-probe|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16018" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16017" CreationDate="2021-04-03T09:43:23.230" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't understand the reasoning behind a first layer having a different offset from the following layers, but, You can manually add a re-definition of the current height after the first layer, suppose your first layer is 0.2 mm, you just need to tell the printer to move to a slightly higher next layer to redefine this as a different Z-offset.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;From a G-code file find the start of the second layer:&lt;br&gt;&lt;code&gt;G0 F600 X141.541 Y109.467 Z0.37&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Modify this to:&lt;br&gt;&lt;code&gt;G0 F600 X141.541 Y109.467 Z0.42&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Now insert the following command:&lt;br&gt;&lt;code&gt;G92 X0.37&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now it is like you have changed the Z-offset.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason for not using &lt;code&gt;M206&lt;/code&gt; is that is applied onto current offsets, if you accidentally save setting to memory after printing, it stores this offset. You can use &lt;code&gt;M206&lt;/code&gt;, but use it carefully. A re-definition of the Z level is never stored, the next &lt;code&gt;G28&lt;/code&gt; erases the effect, so does repowering the motors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-04-04T15:57:39.417" LastActivityDate="2021-04-04T15:57:39.417" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16019" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16020" CreationDate="2021-04-03T10:50:48.707" Score="3" ViewCount="3591" Body="&lt;p&gt;My sample filament has just ran out. Luckilly, I've already bought more filament. The only problem I have is that the spool for the new filament won't fit inside my 3D printer. The filament itself works with my printer; it's just the spool that is the problem. Does anyone have any solutions for what to do if a filament spool won't fit in your 3D printer? For reference, I have the FlashForge Adventurer 3.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27385" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2022-02-05T10:56:47.913" LastActivityDate="2022-02-05T10:56:47.913" Title="What to do if filament spool won't fit in 3D printer" Tags="|troubleshooting|filament|flashforge-adventurer-3|change-filament|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16020" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16019" CreationDate="2021-04-03T11:19:44.927" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;A spool does not need to be inside a printer. Or on. Or even next to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My Ender 3 pulls his filament in from the rack above it, my TronXY X1 pulls it from about 80 cm to the left of it, where it hangs from a shelf.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When making a solution that pulls in filament from afar, it is necessary to make sure the path is unobstructed and works for the whole movement range of the printer without getting bent sharply, as that can snap or kink the filament.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the case of the small printer you have, leave open or remove the door to the filament chamber and make sure to place the spool holder so it drags in the filament straight. There are even spool holders designed &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3163417&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;specifically for this printer&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are many designs of spool holders out there, many of them free and with minimal assembly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;RE-spooling&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some printers, especially ones that only take marked rolls, might need their spool cores re-filled. In that case, you need to take utmost care: re-filling a spool needs to be without any twist to the filament or you risk entangling, and you need to make sure to not kink or bend the filament in doing so, or risk breaking at those spots.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Due to the risks involved, this should be avoided whenever possible!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2021-04-04T20:25:41.907" LastActivityDate="2021-04-04T20:25:41.907" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16022" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-04-03T12:46:30.550" Score="3" ViewCount="1403" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does anyone have any information about using a soldering iron to fix and retouch 3D prints?&#xA;On the market, for example, we can find Modifi3D pen. Why has nobody created a simple soldering tip for this use?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a TS100 soldering iron which has great temperature control and I think it would be perfect for this use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone think it's a bad idea?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27661" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2021-04-03T19:28:51.907" LastActivityDate="2021-04-06T18:46:15.080" Title="3D print retouch with soldering iron" Tags="|post-processing|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16023" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16022" CreationDate="2021-04-03T16:16:48.977" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cutting materials with a 'hot knife' isn't anything new.  There should be a fairly established toolset for working foam.  For 3D prints, I prefer to add coatings rather than modify surfaces with a hand held tool after.  I do run a drill bit through printed holes though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23523" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-04-03T21:48:13.207" LastActivityDate="2021-04-03T21:48:13.207" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16024" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16022" CreationDate="2021-04-03T17:32:43.997" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have used a standard soldering iron to modify and fix 3D prints in the past. You have to keep some things in mind when doing so:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Don't overheat your material. PLA can take a soldering iron of about 230 °C before charring.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Don't use a tip with solder, or you will get grey deposits in the plastic.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Round tips or flat tips both work fine, but you want to not dump &lt;em&gt;too&lt;/em&gt; much heat into the model or you start to deform the print as it needs to cool again.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Using snippets from the end of the spool for soldering is a good way to recycle the &amp;quot;waste&amp;quot;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2021-04-06T18:46:15.080" LastActivityDate="2021-04-06T18:46:15.080" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16025" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16029" CreationDate="2021-04-03T22:50:13.897" Score="0" ViewCount="1323" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a FlashForge Adventurer 3. I have just finished my sample filament today and tried to replace it with a new spool of filament. This new filament is by Hatchbox, instead of FlashForge. Besides that, the new filament is 1.75 mm PLA filament, like the sample spool. However, when I tried to insert the new filament, it doesn't feed in. I get a loud, thumping sound from the printer, but the filament doesn't get fed through. Does anyone know why this is happening or what I should do?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27385" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-04-04T05:43:10.197" LastActivityDate="2021-04-04T05:44:21.850" Title="Unable to load new filament FlashForge Adventurer 3" Tags="|filament|change-filament|flashforge-adventurer-3|flashforge|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16026" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16016" CreationDate="2021-04-03T23:05:09.827" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are you sure the move didn't finish? That would be very unusual, not the way 3D printer firmware normally operates. A new &lt;code&gt;G0&lt;/code&gt;/&lt;code&gt;G1&lt;/code&gt; move command does not execute until the previous one finishes, whether it's extrude-only, travel-only, or a print move (mix of extrusion and travel).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What's probably happening for you is that the amount of material you're trying to extrude cannot melt and pass through the extruder at the speed you requested. At 1800 mm/min, assuming 1.75 mm diameter filament, you're requesting over 72 mm³ of material (nearly a whole cubic centimeter!) of material to be extruded per second. According to some back-of-the-envelope calculations I just did, It would take more than 300 Watts to continuously raise PLA from room temperature to extrusion temperature at that rate, which is not happening without an &lt;strong&gt;extreme&lt;/strong&gt; hotend and power supply.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, what you're getting is pressure building up between the extruder gear and the hotend (until it starts slipping), causing the material to continue to ooze for some time after the E-axis move finishes, until all the pressure subsides. If your goal is to prime the nozzle for printing, this is not how to do it. It will just end up oozing material all over the start of your print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can somewhat fix this by just reducing the feedrate in your command, but that's still not necessarily going to give you great results. The right way to prime is to extrude at nearly the maximum &lt;strong&gt;rate your hotend can handle&lt;/strong&gt;, then &lt;strong&gt;retract and wipe&lt;/strong&gt; before traveling to where the print will begin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-04-04T06:00:26.403" LastActivityDate="2021-04-04T06:00:26.403" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16027" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16017" CreationDate="2021-04-03T23:25:30.377" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Trying to change the Z level (NOT the offset) during a print isn't a good idea UNLESS you know that all future moves will be &amp;quot;relative&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;code&gt;M206&lt;/code&gt; (if you use Marlin) is the right way to set it!  Depending on the slicer, just create TWO &amp;quot;different&amp;quot; printer definitions and add them to the startup G-codes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't save it, a reset will return the z-offset to the &amp;quot;saved&amp;quot; value. Or consider resetting to a &amp;quot;standard&amp;quot; value in the ending G-code.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, consider using &amp;quot;baby-stepping&amp;quot; (if you can), and manually adjusting things at the start of a print with a different surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27669" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-04-04T15:37:09.507" LastActivityDate="2021-04-04T15:37:09.507" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16028" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16005" CreationDate="2021-04-03T23:29:35.323" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would say that it &lt;strong&gt;IS&lt;/strong&gt; stringing. If you have a Bowden setup, AND you have a different filament, your retraction may need to be tuned!  If this is not a Vase Mode (no separate layers, but a continuous stream, these could be because the start/stop point of the layer change is not &amp;quot;fixed&amp;quot;...Check that setting in the slicer!   While it looks like missed layer adhesion, it is probably a movement from one stop point of a layer to the start point of the next layer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27669" LastActivityDate="2021-04-03T23:29:35.323" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16029" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16025" CreationDate="2021-04-04T00:25:09.767" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;First thing I'd try is making sure the nozzle is hot enough and carefully try to feed the new filament where it will be pushed - sometimes there's melted filament that just isn't hot enough to flow out and the new filament is pushing on it, jamming and making your motor make that sound.  Usually getting it hot to the point where the old filament is practically dripping out before attempting to insert the new filament will work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If that doesn't work I might let the thing cool, disassemble the nozzle, and remove the jam mechanically (and reassemble it).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23523" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-04-04T05:44:21.850" LastActivityDate="2021-04-04T05:44:21.850" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16030" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15131" CreationDate="2021-04-04T09:30:15.220" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had the same problem with the pressed on gear. With WD40 and a center punch the gear came off alright.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The next problem was the shaft that is to short and perfectly round. With a small grinder (Dremel) I created a flat spot. I carefully tapped the shaft from the bottom of the motor until it was sticking out enough on the top side. Now it works perfectly with my dual extruder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27674" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2022-02-13T17:53:48.163" LastActivityDate="2022-02-13T17:53:48.163" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16031" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16051" CreationDate="2021-04-04T20:13:46.087" Score="0" ViewCount="282" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've used TinkerCAD (&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.tinkercad.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.tinkercad.com/&lt;/a&gt;) and was able to easily model objects for 3D printing, despite having no prior experience in 3D modeling.&#xA;However it needs to be connected to the internet to work, which is not always available at my location.&#xA;At minimum, I need an ability to create solid shapes and holes, and with resize, align and rotate options.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there an equivalent program that's free, with a similar intuitive interface as TinkerCAD, and works completely offline?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22067" LastActivityDate="2021-04-08T06:17:53.863" Title="Recommendation for free, intuitive offline 3D modeling software for 3D printing" Tags="|3d-design|software|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ClosedDate="2021-04-08T07:49:20.513" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16032" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16031" CreationDate="2021-04-05T01:57:38.617" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I suspect there may be fewer answers than we expect.&#xA;Personally free software wise I like FreeCAD but it is not similar to the simple shapes of tinkercad at all and not intuitive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did know someone who used something from &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.xyzprinting.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.xyzprinting.com&lt;/a&gt; that was very similar to the tinkercad stuff, but eventually ran into limitations and switched to more advanced software anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23523" LastActivityDate="2021-04-05T01:57:38.617" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16033" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-04-05T09:04:45.677" Score="2" ViewCount="123" Body="&lt;p&gt;I could really use some help here. I am trying to print with ColorFabb XT and have been having an overflow problem, which creates an accumulation of material on the nozzle tip creating stringing and depositing random chunks of material randomly throughout the print. When I get the nozzle to 250 °C, the filament flows heavily by itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have upped the print speed, retraction speed and retraction distance and results are getting better, but the problem is still present and my concern is the values are getting relatively high.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am using a CR-10S Pro and my settings are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Print speed: 80 mm/s (I actually started with the recommended settings but they were all off)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Nozzle temp: 250 °C&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bed temp: 70 °C&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Retraction speed: 50 mm/s&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Retraction distance: 7.5 mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have managed to print some pieces that don't require much traveling since they are round and filament is deposited in a concentric pattern and also each layer didn't use a lot of material but whenever pieces have bigger cross sections and layers need to deposit more material or there is a minimum amount of travel needed, the problem becomes evident.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Any ideas?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Has anyone had experience with this material?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27685" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2022-10-05T11:24:57.680" LastActivityDate="2024-02-27T14:04:45.773" Title="Problems with ColorFabb XT: over extrusion" Tags="|print-material|creality-cr-10|retraction|colorfabb-xt|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16034" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16033" CreationDate="2021-04-05T11:06:27.657" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Level the bed and check your filament diameter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Usually this occurs because the space between the nozzle and bed is greater than it should be for the material put out of the nozzle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Such conditions can happen for a variety of reasons but usually it's an improper bed leveling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Filament diameter vs what your slicer program thinks is the filament diameter is one of the easier ways to control material output after bed is level.  (Sometimes I tell my slicer that the material is smaller than it really is to get it to output more)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sometimes your z axis moves too much or you are using a layer height that your z axis could not handle.  You may have to increase layer thickness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Getting the temperatures into a point where it is not too hot and not too cold is also important.  If the material is too cold, it won't stick.  If too hot, it cools and shrinks by the time your new layer gets to it ( making it lower or warped out of place from where the new layer tries to stick )  Increasing bed temperatures is a good way to help counteract the shrinkage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23523" LastActivityDate="2021-04-05T11:06:27.657" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16035" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-04-05T11:23:43.170" Score="1" ViewCount="1195" Body="&lt;p&gt;My problem is that the BLtouch doesn't probe the whole bed, in which the probe starts from the left edge and stops at the middle of the bed. I'm using Marlin 2 software and this the code in the configuration.h file:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;  #define BLTOUCH&#xA;&#xA;/**&#xA; * Touch-MI Probe by hotends.fr&#xA; *&#xA; * This probe is deployed and activated by moving the X-axis to a magnet at the edge of the bed.&#xA; * By default, the magnet is assumed to be on the left and activated by a home. If the magnet is&#xA; * on the right, enable and set TOUCH_MI_DEPLOY_XPOS to the deploy position.&#xA; *&#xA; * Also requires: BABYSTEPPING, BABYSTEP_ZPROBE_OFFSET, Z_SAFE_HOMING,&#xA; *                and a minimum Z_HOMING_HEIGHT of 10.&#xA; */&#xA;//#define TOUCH_MI_PROBE&#xA;#if ENABLED(TOUCH_MI_PROBE)&#xA;  #define TOUCH_MI_RETRACT_Z 0.5                  // Height at which the probe retracts&#xA;  //#define TOUCH_MI_DEPLOY_XPOS (X_MAX_BED + 2)  // For a magnet on the right side of the bed&#xA;  //#define TOUCH_MI_MANUAL_DEPLOY                // For manual deploy (LCD menu)&#xA;#endif&#xA;&#xA;// A probe that is deployed and stowed with a solenoid pin (SOL1_PIN)&#xA;//#define SOLENOID_PROBE&#xA;&#xA;// A sled-mounted probe like those designed by Charles Bell.&#xA;//#define Z_PROBE_SLED&#xA;//#define SLED_DOCKING_OFFSET 5  // The extra distance the X axis must travel to pickup the sled. 0 should be fine but you can push it further if you'd like.&#xA;&#xA;// A probe deployed by moving the x-axis, such as the Wilson II's rack-and-pinion probe designed by Marty Rice.&#xA;//#define RACK_AND_PINION_PROBE&#xA;#if ENABLED(RACK_AND_PINION_PROBE)&#xA;  #define Z_PROBE_DEPLOY_X  X_MIN_POS&#xA;  #define Z_PROBE_RETRACT_X X_MAX_POS&#xA;#endif&#xA;&#xA;// Duet Smart Effector (for delta printers) - https://bit.ly/2ul5U7J&#xA;// When the pin is defined you can use M672 to set/reset the probe sensivity.&#xA;//#define DUET_SMART_EFFECTOR&#xA;#if ENABLED(DUET_SMART_EFFECTOR)&#xA;  #define SMART_EFFECTOR_MOD_PIN  -1  // Connect a GPIO pin to the Smart Effector MOD pin&#xA;#endif&#xA;&#xA;/**&#xA; * Use StallGuard2 to probe the bed with the nozzle.&#xA; * Requires stallGuard-capable Trinamic stepper drivers.&#xA; * CAUTION: This can damage machines with Z lead screws.&#xA; *          Take extreme care when setting up this feature.&#xA; */&#xA;//#define SENSORLESS_PROBING&#xA;&#xA;//&#xA;// For Z_PROBE_ALLEN_KEY see the Delta example configurations.&#xA;//&#xA;&#xA;/**&#xA; * Z Probe to nozzle (X,Y) offset, relative to (0, 0).&#xA; *&#xA; * In the following example the X and Y offsets are both positive:&#xA; *&#xA; *   #define NOZZLE_TO_PROBE_OFFSET { 10, 10, 0 }&#xA; *&#xA; *     +-- BACK ---+&#xA; *     |           |&#xA; *   L |    (+) P  | R &amp;lt;-- probe (20,20)&#xA; *   E |           | I&#xA; *   F | (-) N (+) | G &amp;lt;-- nozzle (10,10)&#xA; *   T |           | H&#xA; *     |    (-)    | T&#xA; *     |           |&#xA; *     O-- FRONT --+&#xA; *   (0,0)&#xA; *&#xA; * Specify a Probe position as { X, Y, Z }&#xA; */&#xA;#define NOZZLE_TO_PROBE_OFFSET { -43.5, -9, 0 }&#xA;&#xA;// Most probes should stay away from the edges of the bed, but&#xA;// with NOZZLE_AS_PROBE this can be negative for a wider probing area.&#xA;#define MIN_PROBE_EDGE 20&#xA;&#xA;// X and Y axis travel speed (mm/m) between probes&#xA;#define XY_PROBE_SPEED 800&#xA;&#xA;// Feedrate (mm/m) for the first approach when double-probing (MULTIPLE_PROBING == 2)&#xA;#define Z_PROBE_SPEED_FAST HOMING_FEEDRATE_Z&#xA;&#xA;// Feedrate (mm/m) for the &amp;quot;accurate&amp;quot; probe of each point&#xA;#define Z_PROBE_SPEED_SLOW (Z_PROBE_SPEED_FAST / 2)&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have tried changing the &amp;gt; #define MIN_PROBE_EDGE 20 value but nothing change.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also this is the configuration_adv.h code:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#if PROBE_SELECTED &amp;amp;&amp;amp; !IS_KINEMATIC&#xA;  #define MIN_PROBE_EDGE_LEFT MIN_PROBE_EDGE&#xA;  #define MIN_PROBE_EDGE_RIGHT 15&#xA;  #define MIN_PROBE_EDGE_FRONT MIN_PROBE_EDGE&#xA;  #define MIN_PROBE_EDGE_BACK MIN_PROBE_EDGE&#xA;#endif&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also have tried changing these values but unfortunately, nothing seems to work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27688" LastEditorUserId="27688" LastEditDate="2021-04-05T11:33:11.857" LastActivityDate="2024-02-15T05:07:10.947" Title="BLTouch not covering the whole bed area" Tags="|marlin|bed-leveling|bltouch|z-probe|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16036" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-04-05T13:02:52.573" Score="3" ViewCount="1850" Body="&lt;p&gt;I installed MKS Gen L V2.1 with TMC 2209 drivers to my Creality Ender-3 printer and updated the software to marlin 2, the stepper motors are getting extremely hot. What should i due to resolve this problem. The following Code is from the configuration_adv.h file showing the currents.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;    #if AXIS_IS_TMC(X)&#xA;    #define X_CURRENT       800        // (mA) RMS current. Multiply by 1.414 for peak current.&#xA;    #define X_CURRENT_HOME  X_CURRENT  // (mA) RMS current for sensorless homing&#xA;    #define X_MICROSTEPS     32    // 0..256&#xA;    #define X_RSENSE          0.11&#xA;    #define X_CHAIN_POS      -1    // &amp;lt;=0 : Not chained. 1 : MCU MOSI connected. 2 : Next in chain, ...&#xA;  #endif&#xA;&#xA;  #if AXIS_IS_TMC(X2)&#xA;    #define X2_CURRENT      800&#xA;    #define X2_CURRENT_HOME X2_CURRENT&#xA;    #define X2_MICROSTEPS    16&#xA;    #define X2_RSENSE         0.11&#xA;    #define X2_CHAIN_POS     -1&#xA;  #endif&#xA;&#xA;  #if AXIS_IS_TMC(Y)&#xA;    #define Y_CURRENT       800&#xA;    #define Y_CURRENT_HOME  Y_CURRENT&#xA;    #define Y_MICROSTEPS     32&#xA;    #define Y_RSENSE          0.11&#xA;    #define Y_CHAIN_POS      -1&#xA;  #endif&#xA;&#xA;  #if AXIS_IS_TMC(Y2)&#xA;    #define Y2_CURRENT      800&#xA;    #define Y2_CURRENT_HOME Y2_CURRENT&#xA;    #define Y2_MICROSTEPS    16&#xA;    #define Y2_RSENSE         0.11&#xA;    #define Y2_CHAIN_POS     -1&#xA;  #endif&#xA;&#xA;  #if AXIS_IS_TMC(Z)&#xA;    #define Z_CURRENT       800&#xA;    #define Z_CURRENT_HOME  Z_CURRENT&#xA;    #define Z_MICROSTEPS     32&#xA;    #define Z_RSENSE          0.11&#xA;    #define Z_CHAIN_POS      -1&#xA;  #endif&#xA;&#xA;  #if AXIS_IS_TMC(Z2)&#xA;    #define Z2_CURRENT      800&#xA;    #define Z2_CURRENT_HOME Z2_CURRENT&#xA;    #define Z2_MICROSTEPS    16&#xA;    #define Z2_RSENSE         0.11&#xA;    #define Z2_CHAIN_POS     -1&#xA;  #endif&#xA;&#xA;  #if AXIS_IS_TMC(Z3)&#xA;    #define Z3_CURRENT      800&#xA;    #define Z3_CURRENT_HOME Z3_CURRENT&#xA;    #define Z3_MICROSTEPS    16&#xA;    #define Z3_RSENSE         0.11&#xA;    #define Z3_CHAIN_POS     -1&#xA;  #endif&#xA;&#xA;  #if AXIS_IS_TMC(Z4)&#xA;    #define Z4_CURRENT      800&#xA;    #define Z4_CURRENT_HOME Z4_CURRENT&#xA;    #define Z4_MICROSTEPS    16&#xA;    #define Z4_RSENSE         0.11&#xA;    #define Z4_CHAIN_POS     -1&#xA;  #endif&#xA;&#xA;  #if AXIS_IS_TMC(E0)&#xA;    #define E0_CURRENT      850&#xA;    #define E0_MICROSTEPS    32&#xA;    #define E0_RSENSE         0.11&#xA;    #define E0_CHAIN_POS     -1&#xA;  #endif&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27688" LastActivityDate="2021-04-05T17:48:24.900" Title="Stepper Motors getting extremely hot" Tags="|marlin|stepper-driver|stepper|motor|mks|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16037" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-04-05T13:48:01.377" Score="1" ViewCount="210" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am trying to enable Z-offset on MKS MKS TFT28 V4.0 touch screen but I couldn't for some reason.&#xA;This is the code that I have uploaded to the Screen firmware in which you can see that I have enabled the babystepping function:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#the color of screen background&#xA;&amp;gt;cfg_background_color:0x000000&#xA;&#xA;#the color of title text&#xA;&amp;gt;cfg_title_color:0xFFFFFF&#xA;&#xA;#the color of temperature,fan,(etc) background&#xA;&amp;gt;cfg_state_background_color:0x000000&#xA;&#xA;#the color of temprature,fan,(etc) text&#xA;&amp;gt;cfg_state_text_color:0xFFFFFF&#xA;&#xA;#the color of file button&#xA;&amp;gt;cfg_filename_background_color:0x494949&#xA;&#xA;#the color of file text&#xA;&amp;gt;cfg_filename_color:0xFFFFFF&#xA;&#xA;#the color of background in printing &#xA;&amp;gt;cfg_printingstat_word_background_color:0x000000&#xA;&#xA;#the color of text in printing status&#xA;&amp;gt;cfg_printingstat_word_color:0xFFFFFF&#xA;&#xA;#3D effects setting (disable: 0; enable: 1)&#xA;&amp;gt;cfg_BUTTON_3D_effects:0&#xA;&#xA;#The screen is flipped 180°(0x00: no flip, 0xEE: flip)&#xA;&amp;gt;cfg_OVERTURN_180:0x00&#xA;&#xA;#shield the function of detection power (0:no shield ,1:shield)&#xA;&amp;gt;cfg_disable_PWR_det:0&#xA;&#xA;#shield the function of detection filament (0:no shield ,1:shield)&#xA;&amp;gt;cfg_disable_MT_det:0&#xA;&#xA;#Whether to support the function of dual extruder single nozzle.(0: disable, 1: enable)&#xA;#the extruder number need set to dual.&#xA;&amp;gt;cfg_single_nozzle:0&#xA;&#xA;#For the M110 command plus check, the version of Marlin 1.0.2 and below is set to 1, and the other versions are set to 0.&#xA;&amp;gt;cfg_M110_add_checkSum:1&#xA;&#xA;#Enable function of display error message. (no:0; Yes:1）&#xA;&amp;gt;cfg_display_eeror_message:1&#xA;&#xA;#Enable function of babastep. (no:0; Yes:1）&#xA;&amp;gt;cfg_babystep_btn_display:1&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27688" LastActivityDate="2021-04-05T13:48:01.377" Title="How to enable Z-offset on MKS TFT28 V4.0" Tags="|marlin|troubleshooting|lcd-screen|mks|print-axis-offset|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16038" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16036" CreationDate="2021-04-05T17:42:30.757" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I notice that in &amp;quot;configuration_adv.h&amp;quot; for the BIGTREETECH-SKR-mini-E3, which uses TMC2209 drivers, the similar section has:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#if HAS_TRINAMIC_CONFIG&#xA;&#xA;  #define HOLD_MULTIPLIER    0.5  // Scales down the holding current from run current&#xA;  #define INTERPOLATE       true  // Interpolate X/Y/Z_MICROSTEPS to 256&#xA;&#xA;  #if AXIS_IS_TMC(X)&#xA;    #define X_CURRENT       580        // (mA) RMS current. Multiply by 1.414 for peak current.&#xA;    #define X_CURRENT_HOME  (X_CURRENT/2)  // (mA) RMS current for sensorless homing&#xA;    #define X_MICROSTEPS     16    // 0..256&#xA;    #define X_RSENSE          0.11&#xA;    #define X_CHAIN_POS      -1    // &amp;lt;=0 : Not chained. 1 : MCU MOSI connected. 2 : Next in chain, ...&#xA;  #endif&#xA;&#xA;  #if AXIS_IS_TMC(X2)&#xA;    #define X2_CURRENT      800&#xA;    #define X2_CURRENT_HOME X2_CURRENT&#xA;    #define X2_MICROSTEPS    16&#xA;    #define X2_RSENSE         0.11&#xA;    #define X2_CHAIN_POS     -1&#xA;  #endif&#xA;&#xA;  #if AXIS_IS_TMC(Y)&#xA;    #define Y_CURRENT       580&#xA;    #define Y_CURRENT_HOME  (Y_CURRENT/2)&#xA;    #define Y_MICROSTEPS     16&#xA;    #define Y_RSENSE          0.11&#xA;    #define Y_CHAIN_POS      -1&#xA;  #endif&#xA;&#xA;  #if AXIS_IS_TMC(Y2)&#xA;    #define Y2_CURRENT      800&#xA;    #define Y2_CURRENT_HOME Y2_CURRENT&#xA;    #define Y2_MICROSTEPS    16&#xA;    #define Y2_RSENSE         0.11&#xA;    #define Y2_CHAIN_POS     -1&#xA;  #endif&#xA;&#xA;  #if AXIS_IS_TMC(Z)&#xA;    #define Z_CURRENT       580&#xA;    #define Z_CURRENT_HOME  Z_CURRENT&#xA;    #define Z_MICROSTEPS     16&#xA;    #define Z_RSENSE          0.11&#xA;    #define Z_CHAIN_POS      -1&#xA;  #endif&#xA;&#xA;  #if AXIS_IS_TMC(Z2)&#xA;    #define Z2_CURRENT      800&#xA;    #define Z2_CURRENT_HOME Z2_CURRENT&#xA;    #define Z2_MICROSTEPS    16&#xA;    #define Z2_RSENSE         0.11&#xA;    #define Z2_CHAIN_POS     -1&#xA;  #endif&#xA;&#xA;  #if AXIS_IS_TMC(Z3)&#xA;    #define Z3_CURRENT      800&#xA;    #define Z3_CURRENT_HOME Z3_CURRENT&#xA;    #define Z3_MICROSTEPS    16&#xA;    #define Z3_RSENSE         0.11&#xA;    #define Z3_CHAIN_POS     -1&#xA;  #endif&#xA;&#xA;  #if AXIS_IS_TMC(Z4)&#xA;    #define Z4_CURRENT      800&#xA;    #define Z4_CURRENT_HOME Z4_CURRENT&#xA;    #define Z4_MICROSTEPS    16&#xA;    #define Z4_RSENSE         0.11&#xA;    #define Z4_CHAIN_POS     -1&#xA;  #endif&#xA;&#xA;  #if AXIS_IS_TMC(E0)&#xA;    #define E0_CURRENT      650&#xA;    #define E0_MICROSTEPS    16&#xA;    #define E0_RSENSE         0.11&#xA;    #define E0_CHAIN_POS     -1&#xA;  #endif&#xA;&#xA;  #if AXIS_IS_TMC(E1)&#xA;    #define E1_CURRENT      800&#xA;    #define E1_MICROSTEPS    16&#xA;    #define E1_RSENSE         0.11&#xA;    #define E1_CHAIN_POS     -1&#xA;  #endif&#xA;// ...&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the reddit thread &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.reddit.com/r/BIGTREETECH/comments/ct5j8k/stepper_driver_current_settings/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Stepper driver current settings?&lt;/a&gt;, user brewc found that the stepper motors drivers supplied with the Ender 3 specify peak (maximum) current whereas the TMC drivers specify RMS current.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, you probably want to change the current settings to those in the above .h file.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, in the spirit of changing almost everything on an Ender 3, you could also swap for stepper motors with a higher current specification and/or add heatsinks to the motors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11255" LastEditorUserId="11255" LastEditDate="2021-04-05T17:48:24.900" LastActivityDate="2021-04-05T17:48:24.900" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16040" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14935" CreationDate="2021-04-06T01:06:07.060" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would try hexane, and then Dichloromethane and if those did not work, I would heat up sodium hydroxide to about 70-90 °C. These would work better if you print in PLA resin, it's available from a few sources now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bucktown polymers and 3Dresyns both have a water-soluble resin. You could also print, make a soft silicone mold, cast in chocolate or isomalt and quickly seal in b72 enamel to hold its shape for your next step.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another great option is to cast the printed mold with Amazing Remelt as you can microwave it out of your shell afterward. Or heat up/steam.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20744" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2021-04-06T03:41:33.733" LastActivityDate="2021-04-06T03:41:33.733" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16041" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-04-06T16:19:44.457" Score="2" ViewCount="3339" Body="&lt;p&gt;I tried to slice an stl file using the PrusaSlicer console and I got the &lt;code&gt;No layers were detected. You might want to repair your STL file(s) or check their size or thickness and retry.&lt;/code&gt; message. I tried repairing the model with 3 different services and I still get the same error. When I load the fixed stl file into the PrusaSlicer gui, it doesn't say that the model is broken. How can the console and gui give 2 different results and how can I fix this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's an image of the model being loaded into the gui version. It states that the model is broken but was automatically fixed.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/264HH.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/264HH.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;broken model&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Then I manually fixed the model using Netfabb and the model is no longer broken according to the gui version.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/I2Cp3.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/I2Cp3.png&quot; alt=&quot;fixed model&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Yet when I try to slice the repaired model using the console, it fails again.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oDzi8.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oDzi8.png&quot; alt=&quot;error message&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PrusaSlicer version is 2.3.0 on Windows 10.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;You can find the stl and repaired stl &lt;a href=&quot;http://sendanywhe.re/I78RT83D&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27718" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2021-04-06T16:27:49.550" LastActivityDate="2021-12-03T22:56:18.620" Title="Still getting &quot;no layers detected&quot; after repairing model in PrusaSlicer console" Tags="|stl|prusaslicer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16043" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-04-07T10:10:21.317" Score="0" ViewCount="27" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am writing a python code for a 3D printer (Marlin). I'm trying to execute a movement that might be composed of multiple commands (&lt;code&gt;G0&lt;/code&gt;). Unfortunately, sending all commands at once does not seem to work. To my understanding, this is caused because the printer command buffer for unexecuted commands is quite small and gets overloaded when sending so many commands at once.&#xA;Is there a way for me to know how much of the printer buffer is free, so I'll know when to send the next 1, 2, 5, etc. commands to the printer? I cannot send the next commands once the buffer is completely free as this would stop the movement and I need it to be fluid the whole way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Two supplementary questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Does any of you know how the printer handles the G-code file it receives on an SD card so it executes it whole fluidly without overloading?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Does the &lt;code&gt;'ok'&lt;/code&gt; message received from the printer tell me that all the commands have been executed or that there is at least one free space in the command buffer?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27735" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-04-07T11:17:49.523" LastActivityDate="2021-04-08T11:10:16.183" Title="Sending multiple commands to printer without overloading its command buffer" Tags="|marlin|g-code|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2021-04-08T11:09:58.160" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16044" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16045" CreationDate="2021-04-07T12:24:10.323" Score="1" ViewCount="3693" Body="&lt;p&gt;Long story for hopefully a simple yes/no answer:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a lightly modified Ender 3 Pro (BLTouch, glass bed, beefier bed springs and nobs, led lights) and I daydream about someday getting an &amp;quot;Ender Extender&amp;quot; kit to go larger or something, but before I ever do that I need to drastically speed up the prints.  Last night the first layer on one of my prints took 40 minutes and I watched the whole time to make sure it laid down well.  Can't imagine waiting around with a larger build surface.  I understand basic settings like lighter infill/less perimeters/etc... but when it comes to really changing the speed and acceleration settings I'm a bit of a newb.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So after reading &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.matterhackers.com/articles/quick-tip-how-to-3d-print-faster&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; article on improving print speeds, it seems like the Bowden tube style default extruder on my Ender 3 probably doesn't have the grip strength and/or constrained filament path to really push filament faster.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Based on that same article and &lt;a href=&quot;https://all3dp.com/2/ender-3-all-metal-hot-end-upgrade-what-to-consider-2/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this one&lt;/a&gt;, it seems like there are a lot of options for extruders and hotends to upgrade.  The reason the Micro Swiss appealed to me is that it seems like this option is pretty much bolt-on plug and play (additional info &lt;a href=&quot;https://cerkit.com/2020/07/04/installing-the-microswiss-direct-drive-on-my-ender-3-pro/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And it seems like it already has a convenient spot for my BLTouch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which brings me to the title of my question:  &lt;strong&gt;will that Micro Swiss extruder/hotend combo do what I think it'll do?  i.e. allow me to push filament faster and heat it up quicker?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a better alternative extruder/hotend that is also pretty easy to figure out?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lastly (maybe this should be a different question/too open-ended) are there other relatively simple upgrades/modifications to the Ender 3 Pro that will help it print faster?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15186" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-04-07T13:17:54.483" LastActivityDate="2021-04-07T14:15:53.223" Title="Will a Micro Swiss extruder and hotend speed up prints on my Ender 3 Pro?" Tags="|creality-ender-3|extruder|hotend|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16045" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16044" CreationDate="2021-04-07T14:15:53.223" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you want a single word answer, then no.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Before you ask this question you need to figure out &lt;em&gt;why&lt;/em&gt; your prints are slower than you want them to be. With default settings, unless your models are something dead simple like a big cube or cylinder, you're almost certainly limited by &lt;em&gt;acceleration&lt;/em&gt;, not extrusion rate or even max print/travel speed (which you'll almost never achieve). Gcode analysis tools like &lt;a href=&quot;https://gcodeanalyser.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;gcodeanalyser.com&lt;/a&gt; will help you gauge this by predicting actual speeds the printer will achieve. Note that even if your model is simple, printing infill and top/bottom layers involves &lt;em&gt;a lot&lt;/em&gt; of acceleration/deceleration cycles, so even for simple models this may still be your limiting factor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Until you reach very high accelerations (over 5000 mm/s²) letting you actually achieve very high speeds (over 150 mm/s or so), the only way to make extrusion your limiting factor is by using really thick layers or wide walls. At 0.2 mm layer height and 0.4 mm line width, even a sustained 150 mm/s is only 12 mm³/s volumetric extrusion rate which is high but reportedly within the capabilities of the stock Ender 3 extruder and hotend (but probably requires cranking up the temperature).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2021-04-07T14:15:53.223" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16046" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-04-07T17:19:48.687" Score="2" ViewCount="3099" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just got the Ender 5 Plus with BLTouch set up today. I was having some massive issues and determined that my leveling was off because the BLTouch was flashing red and not connecting. When I turn on the printer there is about a 50% chance that it will probe correctly by deploying the pin and correctly retracting it. However, I'm having about a 75 to 90% fail rate on auto leveling where it is doing measurements. I've checked the wiring and it looks correct, but not sure what else to check.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The fixes I've seen say updating the firmware, but all show firmware at 1.70.0 BL. Mine is at 1.70.2 BL. So I'm not sure if there are more firmware updates to apply.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do not know how to check which BLTouch I have. And I've been able to make it get to printing 2 times, but something is off because it is stringy at 1 point of the build on the first layer. No adhesion basically. So that is the problem I'm trying to fix, but can't get to it because the BLTouch fails so often on the first part. The only way I've found to fix the BLTouch consistently is turn off machine, pull the pin down, push it up, then turn on the machine again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it possible this is a firmware issue or is just the BLTouch is likely faulty?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27742" LastActivityDate="2021-04-08T22:41:51.637" Title="How do I know if my BLTouch is faulty or firmware is faulty?" Tags="|bed-leveling|firmware|bltouch|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16047" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-04-07T17:49:29.140" Score="4" ViewCount="78" Body="&lt;p&gt;It occurred to me after recalling cooling problems in the layers near the bed that many popular build surfaces (e.g. BuildTak clones) are black, which should radiate the most heat - onto the part being printed, which is generally undesirable. Is there a reason for this? Are there (white) build surfaces designed to minimize radiation of heat that might help avoid cooling problems in the initial layers?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2021-05-31T18:50:04.787" Title="Why are so many bed surfaces black? Would white help?" Tags="|heated-bed|build-plate|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16048" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16046" CreationDate="2021-04-07T17:49:39.957" Score="1" Body="&lt;h1&gt;Try calibrating your Z offset&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Based on &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/15643/16811&quot;&gt;this answer&lt;/a&gt; it sounds like the flashing red means there isn't enough clearance between your bed and your probe for it to operate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might try raising your Z axis up a bit to let the probe achieve the minimum clearance necessary for deploying the probe. My guess is that your Z-offset isn't quite right and it isn't raising up enough to allow that minimum clearance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I recommend calibrating your Z offset and see if that resolves the issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16811" LastActivityDate="2021-04-07T17:49:39.957" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16049" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-04-07T17:53:52.687" Score="2" ViewCount="1085" Body="&lt;p&gt;Last week, my printer worked really well, but after a print it started having some printing problems. The printer stops extruding mid-print or under extrudes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After this happened, I&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;leveled the bed again&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;increased hotend temperature from 200 to 215 °C (PLA)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;changed slicer (I was using Ultimaker Cura), now I'm using Creality slicer&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;changed the transmission ratio 93 to 106 according to this video&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/k-inUpjRVLA?start=0&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After making adjustments according to the video, the printer still stops extruding mid-print or under extrudes. What should I do to fix this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27743" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2021-04-08T03:28:57.557" LastActivityDate="2021-04-08T09:09:59.843" Title="Ender 3 v2 printing problem" Tags="|creality-ender-3|underextrusion|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2021-04-08T21:29:40.670" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16051" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16031" CreationDate="2021-04-08T06:17:53.863" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;From trying out several alternatives (Fusion 360, Wings 3D, Blender, and others), the closest free offline equivalent to TinkerCAD turned out to be OpenSCAD.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It has nowhere near the same level of intuition,&#xA;but based on info from two tutorials (&amp;quot;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oTCu2hCuqfg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;OpenSCAD Tutorial - Beginners Quickstart&lt;/a&gt;&amp;quot;, &amp;quot;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kSqpdPrJAqg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;OpenSCAD - Model a Bearing in less than ten minutes.&lt;/a&gt;&amp;quot;), OpenSCAD was able to fulfill the minimum requirements that were needed from TinkerCAD most quickly, i.e.,&amp;quot;&lt;em&gt;...ability to create solid shapes and holes, and with resize, align and rotate options&lt;/em&gt;&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fo3py.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fo3py.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22067" LastActivityDate="2021-04-08T06:17:53.863" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16052" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15966" CreationDate="2021-04-08T07:21:57.637" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I agree with &lt;a href=&quot;/a/15995&quot;&gt;this answer&lt;/a&gt;. There might be an obstruction in the cooling. I also have a B1, have you checked the included printed part that redirects the blower fans towards the part and made sure it's clear? Mine came with some warping that I had to file off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27752" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-04-08T07:57:38.263" LastActivityDate="2021-04-08T07:57:38.263" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16053" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16049" CreationDate="2021-04-08T09:09:59.843" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;One common reason for extrusion to stop in the middle of a print is heat creep.  See &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/15629/what-are-ways-to-avoid-heat-creep&quot;&gt;What are ways to avoid heat creep?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15075" LastActivityDate="2021-04-08T09:09:59.843" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16054" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-04-08T13:18:17.337" Score="2" ViewCount="744" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am printing fairly cheap, but highly rated, PLA and not sure whether this is underextrusion or overextrusion; but it just looks bumpy and not clean. My settings:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;195 °C at 60 mm/s bed temp 50 °C&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;0.4 mm nozzle at 90 % extrusion&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;0.1 mm layer height&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;6 mm retraction at 60 mm/s with 0.50 mm coasting&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried at 190 °C and it severely underextruded halfway through, but the outside looks much smoother; I also tried with and without coasting with no difference and tried adding -0.2 mm extra restart distance which didn't change much either. Could this be because I am just printing a rather small part (25 mm diameter)? I think this because I tried printing a much larger 100 mm diameter hemisphere just before, which printed perfectly using the exact same filament.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've switched out to a new 0.4 mm nozzle, tried a 0.6 mm nozzle, but the only complete print I got had this rough and bumpy outside. It is printed in the orientation shown as removing support from those thin legs lead to them snapping.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also had moderate stringing throughout, which I thought coasting and restart distance would fix.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HfV5J.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HfV5J.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;The small part I'm trying to print&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/v4xCN.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/v4xCN.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;The larger part that printed well&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas would be much appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit 12/04:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have since reinstalled one of my all metal hotends, as I wasn't using them due to clogging issues, installed a brand new 0.4 mm nozzle, set the extrusion multiplier to 1.0 and disabled coasting. I also calibrated my e-steps, which means I needed to buy an arduino and burn new firmware.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sadly I didn't print in between fixed, but these are the results I got.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9T77E.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9T77E.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JEcZv.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JEcZv.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The prints are &lt;strong&gt;much&lt;/strong&gt; better but there is some pretty serious stringing and zits due to me needing to reduce the retraction distance for the hotend to 2 mm, as the 6 mm distance I was using before would make it clog; but since I'm using a bowden extruder it creates stringing. How could I go about fixing this? I feel like I'm playing a game of whack-a-mole.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17392" LastEditorUserId="17392" LastEditDate="2021-04-12T15:00:25.363" LastActivityDate="2024-01-28T04:02:50.473" Title="Randomly underextruding/overextruding small part on CR-10" Tags="|pla|creality-cr-10|underextrusion|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16056" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-04-08T22:25:26.643" Score="1" ViewCount="596" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I have had problems straight out of the box with this printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After going through a lot of leveling / slicing things I decided to check what the printer &amp;quot;&lt;em&gt;thinks&lt;/em&gt;&amp;quot; is its home settings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After the following procedure:&#xA;▶ &lt;strong&gt;Factory Reset&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;▶ &lt;strong&gt;Power Off / On&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;▶ &lt;strong&gt;Manual Mode&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;▶ &lt;strong&gt;Home Button&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And, looking at:&#xA;▶ &lt;strong&gt;System&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;▶ &lt;strong&gt;Info&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I get the following position information:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;X: 263.9994 mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Y: 153.9987 mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Z: 154.0000 mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Please note:&lt;br&gt;&lt;/em&gt;&#xA;&lt;em&gt;A relative who has another Qidi (X-Plus) when he homes it his info is exact, X: 0.0000, Y: 0.0000, Z: 200.0000&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27761" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-04-09T06:45:56.740" LastActivityDate="2021-04-10T10:05:30.867" Title="Qidi X-Pro - Trouble Printing - Home Settings Seem Off" Tags="|firmware|software|qidi-x-pro|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16057" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16046" CreationDate="2021-04-08T22:41:51.637" Score="1" Body="&lt;h1&gt;Replace the probe&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The probe that came with the original BLTouch definitely had issues. There seems to be some slight difference in the original probe and was replaced with a spare probe  that comes with the Ender 5+. There was an immediate change in success rate of turning on the device and other measurements.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/BLTouch_Troubleshooting&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;This blog post goes into more details.&lt;/a&gt; I was helped by an amazing reddit user that gave me some pointers about this issue. It definitely is not obvious. Red flashing on boot and intermittent failures during checks are indicators you may  want to  change the probe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27742" LastActivityDate="2021-04-08T22:41:51.637" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16058" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-04-08T22:46:11.317" Score="3" ViewCount="483" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most specifications for 3D printers show that the minimum wall thickness should be 1 mm.  We printed our object using Selective Laser Sintering with Nylon12 through an online service, and although it looked great, it did not work as expected.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We are hoping to try the print again with a 0.5 mm wall.  What is the best printing method that offers the strongest model for this wall size?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We also found a service that offers even smaller wall thickness - does anyone have any experience with this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We were also wondering if we could do post-processing to make it stronger - such as metal plating.  Would this work on thin models?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27762" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-04-09T06:54:22.853" LastActivityDate="2021-04-20T21:49:35.443" Title="Can I print an object with thin walls?" Tags="|print-quality|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16059" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-04-09T02:41:27.660" Score="1" ViewCount="207" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is this a jam? How do it fix it? There is a piece of filament stuck in the metal block (I have no idea what it is used for(other than mounting). When I heat up the extruder and try to extrude nothing happens.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Printer: Maker Select v2 (Wanhao Duplicator I3 Plus)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gwH0B.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gwH0B.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Image above is the hot-end with the filament feeding stepper motor removed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27766" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-04-12T11:17:10.757" LastActivityDate="2021-05-12T16:02:00.203" Title="Possible 3D printer nozzle jam?" Tags="|monoprice-maker-select|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16060" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16058" CreationDate="2021-04-09T13:39:27.920" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The test print in your question used an SLS printer. The other common alternative is FDM.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For narrow outer walls with FDM printers, you want to think in exact multiples of the nozzle size. Furthermore, unless the printer is well-tuned, you usually want at least two rows for the outer wall. Otherwise any flaw at all in the outer wall leaves gaps or tears in the final print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given most printers use a 0.4 mm nozzle, this means the typical minimum wall thickness is 0.8 mm. I use this number fairly often with good success.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want 0.5 mm you could step up to a larger 0.5 mm nozzle and give it a shot with only one row. But again, this will end up with flawed prints unless the printer is very well tuned and assembled, and if strength is one of your concerns it will be significantly weaker. Or, you could step down to a 0.3 mm or 0.2 mm nozzle and use multiple rows. Neither of those sizes will give you exactly 0.5 mm, but they can get you a smaller thickness than the 0.4 mm nozzle, at the cost of longer print times.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12562" LastEditorUserId="12562" LastEditDate="2021-04-10T17:36:16.023" LastActivityDate="2021-04-10T17:36:16.023" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16061" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16063" CreationDate="2021-04-09T17:59:05.883" Score="4" ViewCount="454" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Prusa MK3s MMU2s which I was running a 7-hour print job on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It had two spools of filament in, a blue one (primary, very little left) and a gold one (secondary, quite a lot left). It ran out of blue filament approximately 75% through the print job and rather than simply using the remainder of the blue and switching to the gold, the blue was bent and caught on the output nozzle of my spool container. It says that:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;MMU needs user attention, fix issue then press button on MMU unit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have fixed the issue (snipped the bent part of the blue filament), however, I can't figure out how to make it continue printing. After fiddling a little bit, the red and green lights are all flashing, but no matter what MMU buttons I press, it doesn't continue printing. How should I fix this without cancelling the print job?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27778" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2021-04-09T18:30:23.050" LastActivityDate="2021-04-09T23:41:30.427" Title="How to unload filament without cancelling print" Tags="|prusa-i3|prusa-mmu|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16063" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16061" CreationDate="2021-04-09T23:41:30.427" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This condition is covered in the MMU2S manual's section on troubleshooting:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;13.4 All five LEDs blinking red and green&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;MMU2S unit can now deal with a state in which the Trinamic drivers were not able to provide enough power for steppers. A possible cause can be a broken MMU2S power supply wiring, connectors etc. Please check that all connectors are properly plugged into the MMU2S board and make sure that the cables are in good condition. Also, make sure that the screws on the Einsy terminal box for the power cables are properly tightened. If this state is detected, the MMU2S unit rehomes and automatically continues printing. If the problem occurs three times in a row, the MMU2S unit stops printing and starts flashing continuously with red and green LEDs. Printing can be restored by restarting MMU2S unit using the button on the right side of MMU2S unit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, once you have fixed the problem which prevented the filament from moving, press the reset button on the MMU2S. It is recessed, so you will need a tool to push it (such as the 2.5 mm Allen key included with the printer). You will then need to wait a few seconds for the MMU2 to complete its reboot and be ready to communicate, before telling the printer to continue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that the filament may have been chewed by the MMU2 or extruder drive gears and unable to feed properly. Be prepared to — if you haven't already — disassemble the tubing and manually pull out the remaining filament sections. I find &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3233579&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this modified holder for the MMU2's filament tubes that uses push-in couplings instead of a clamp&lt;/a&gt; very useful to allow quick access when there's a problem or even when inserting new filament.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10321" LastActivityDate="2021-04-09T23:41:30.427" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16065" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16090" CreationDate="2021-04-10T08:39:04.950" Score="2" ViewCount="381" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am looking for a way to easily separate the wires between the power supply and the Einsy board of my Prusa Mk 3S+ with a connector. The power supply delivers 10 A at 24 V.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I thought about a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.jst.com/products/wire-to-wire/yl-connector/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;YL wire-to-wire electrical connector&lt;/a&gt; as it can handle up to 7 A at 300 V. This should be enough since the two cables share the total load.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WOMTO.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WOMTO.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The 6 cables (4 power cables &amp;amp; 2 PSU power panic cables) have different diameters. Is it better to use one connector (6 pin) or two connectors (4 pin, 2 pin)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27787" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-04-13T07:51:55.837" LastActivityDate="2021-04-23T09:16:51.250" Title="Which connector should I use between the power supply and the Einsy board?" Tags="|prusa-i3|prusa-i3-rework|wire-type|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16066" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16054" CreationDate="2021-04-10T13:24:50.683" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The first one has major extrusion problems going on, possibly combined with issues caused by things you did to compensate for it or other issues. You should not see &amp;quot;bubbly&amp;quot; surfaces like that. There are a lot of things it could be, but my best guesses are wet filament, clogged nozzle or damage in the ptfe tube (if your printer uses one), and your 90% flow rate. If it was really printed &amp;quot;right after&amp;quot; the successful hemisphere that probably rules out wet filament and indicates a clog of some sort or your changes to settings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your retraction amount is probably good if you have a bowden printer but excessive and likely to clog with direct drive. Coasting and extra unretract are always wrong; they were a hack from a long time ago trying to simulate what linear advance feature in firmware does, but with a fixed hardcoded offset. Flow rate as low as 90% is also wrong unless your steps per mm were miscalculated. You can only go up/down by a few % without messing things up badly; there just isn't that much room for error.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2021-04-10T13:24:50.683" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16067" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16069" CreationDate="2021-04-10T14:31:51.667" Score="4" ViewCount="855" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have bought an Ender 3 Pro in November. I loved 3D printing and even upgraded my machine to improve my experience. However, lately, I can't print anything due to an issue I can't seem to resolve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I will provide as many details as I can in an orderly fashion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;My machine: Ender 3 Pro w/ BLTouch clone installed. Running Marlin's latest bugfix branch. Also has a Raspberry Pi with Octoprint built into the PSU so I can control both the Power and functionalities of the printer. I have a glass bed, red aluminum extruder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;My settings:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Printing with PLA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hot end at 200 °C;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bed is at 70 °C;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;ABL is on;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Nozzle: 0.4 mm;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Layer height: 0.2 mm;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Slicer: CURA&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The issue: While the first layer is printing, the filament bunches up around the nozzle and if it somehow touches the bed (like I reduce the Probe-Z offset) it doesn't stick and drags on a few mm. It eventually sticks and keeps printing fine for long straight lines but it's impossible to print a little circle inside, for example. The small details aren't printed on the bed, the filament just bunches up around the nozzle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also when I do a cold pull(heat up to 200 °C then pull at 90 °C, the tip of the filament looks like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IMiDO.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Image of the tip of the filament&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IMiDO.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Image of the tip of the filament&quot; title=&quot;Image of the tip of the filament&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I have tried the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;e-step calibration&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;PID Autotune&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lowering/increasing temp (210-190 °C)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lowering/increasing first layer speed (+/- 10-25 %)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Changing the heat block and the throat tube (twice)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Taking the entire hot end apart and cleaning it and changing the nozzle (even re-cutting the PTFE tube) multiple times&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My theory is that the heat traveling up the cold block thins out the filament, causing under extrusion. The filament can't properly stick to the bed because it's too thin. But the hot end fan works. Should I still replace it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or is my problem something completely different?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27794" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2021-04-11T02:31:15.317" LastActivityDate="2021-04-11T02:31:15.317" Title="Can't print anything! Is this heat creep? (Detailed explanation &amp; Photo)" Tags="|creality-ender-3|adhesion|underextrusion|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16068" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-04-10T15:12:37.803" Score="3" ViewCount="615" Body="&lt;p&gt;I find it impossible to level the printer recently. I read a couple of articles on bed warping but that refers to having the center of bed lower than the sides (collapsing on its own weight warm up after warm?) but what I experience is the opposite: the center is higher than the sides. Did anyone face this situation and how did you solved it? I use an Anycubic Chiron so the bed is pretty big.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27094" LastActivityDate="2021-04-27T06:38:03.927" Title="What can cause the center of the bed to be higher than the sides?" Tags="|bed-leveling|glass-bed|bed|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16069" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16067" CreationDate="2021-04-10T15:48:20.467" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;This sounds like nothing but a bed leveling (distance from nozzle to bed) problem, though you may have introduced other problems disassembling the hotend. It's normal to have material oozing and bunching up before the print starts; this is why you start printing with a priming line or skirt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Clean the bed well with isopropyl alcohol, level it (paper method at Z=0 or feeler gauges at Z=0.1, I prefer the latter), then fine tune with a leveling test print. If you're still having problems make sure the PTFE tube is tensioned against the nozzle right inside the hotend. Having any gap will make for all sorts of problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2021-04-10T15:48:20.467" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16070" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-04-10T20:05:12.487" Score="3" ViewCount="4881" Body="&lt;p&gt;With my Ender 3 V2, to home the extruder, I have to choose &lt;strong&gt;Disable Stepper&lt;/strong&gt;, manually move the extruder to the X-axis stop switch; then select &lt;strong&gt;Auto Home&lt;/strong&gt;. After that point everything homes correctly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question, is there a way to get the extruder to automatically move to the X-axis stop switch and then proceed to auto home after &lt;strong&gt;Auto Home&lt;/strong&gt; is selected without selecting &lt;strong&gt;Disable Stepper&lt;/strong&gt;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27807" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2021-04-11T02:27:11.487" LastActivityDate="2021-04-13T17:14:52.700" Title="Ender 3 V2 auto homing" Tags="|creality-ender-3|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16071" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-04-10T20:31:45.047" Score="2" ViewCount="2443" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Z-axis has two stepper motors, I'm using MKS GEN L V2.1 mainboard with TMC 2209 Drivers. My problem is that the motors are out of sync. How can I get them to work together?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is my code from the &lt;code&gt;configuration.h&lt;/code&gt; file:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#define X_DRIVER_TYPE  TMC2209&#xA;#define Y_DRIVER_TYPE  TMC2209&#xA;#define Z_DRIVER_TYPE  TMC2209&#xA;//#define X2_DRIVER_TYPE A4988&#xA;//#define Y2_DRIVER_TYPE A4988&#xA;//#define Z2_DRIVER_TYPE A4988&#xA;//#define Z3_DRIVER_TYPE A4988&#xA;//#define Z4_DRIVER_TYPE A4988&#xA;#define E0_DRIVER_TYPE TMC2209&#xA;#define E1_DRIVER_TYPE TMC2209&#xA;//#define E2_DRIVER_TYPE A4988&#xA;//#define E3_DRIVER_TYPE A4988&#xA;//#define E4_DRIVER_TYPE A4988&#xA;//#define E5_DRIVER_TYPE A4988&#xA;//#define E6_DRIVER_TYPE A4988&#xA;//#define E7_DRIVER_TYPE A4988&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also here is the code from the &lt;code&gt;configuration_adv.h&lt;/code&gt; file:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;//&#xA;// For Z set the number of stepper drivers&#xA;//&#xA;#define NUM_Z_STEPPER_DRIVERS 2   // (1-4) Z options change based on how many&#xA;&#xA;#if NUM_Z_STEPPER_DRIVERS &amp;gt; 1&#xA;  //#define Z_MULTI_ENDSTOPS&#xA;  #if ENABLED(Z_MULTI_ENDSTOPS)&#xA;    #define Z2_USE_ENDSTOP          _XMAX_&#xA;    #define Z2_ENDSTOP_ADJUSTMENT   0&#xA;    #if NUM_Z_STEPPER_DRIVERS &amp;gt;= 3&#xA;      #define Z3_USE_ENDSTOP        _YMAX_&#xA;      #define Z3_ENDSTOP_ADJUSTMENT 0&#xA;    #endif&#xA;    #if NUM_Z_STEPPER_DRIVERS &amp;gt;= 4&#xA;      #define Z4_USE_ENDSTOP        _ZMAX_&#xA;      #define Z4_ENDSTOP_ADJUSTMENT 0&#xA;    #endif&#xA;  #endif&#xA;#endif&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and also this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt; // Microstep setting (Only functional when stepper driver microstep pins are connected to MCU.&#xA;#define MICROSTEP_MODES { 16, 16, 16, 16, 16, 16 } // [1,2,4,8,16]&#xA;&#xA;#if HAS_TRINAMIC_CONFIG&#xA;&#xA;  #define HOLD_MULTIPLIER    0.5  // Scales down the holding current from run current&#xA;  #define INTERPOLATE       true  // Interpolate X/Y/Z_MICROSTEPS to 256&#xA;&#xA;  #if AXIS_IS_TMC(X)&#xA;    #define X_CURRENT       800        // (mA) RMS current. Multiply by 1.414 for peak current.&#xA;    #define X_CURRENT_HOME  X_CURRENT  // (mA) RMS current for sensorless homing&#xA;    #define X_MICROSTEPS     16    // 0..256&#xA;    #define X_RSENSE          0.11&#xA;    #define X_CHAIN_POS      -1    // &amp;lt;=0 : Not chained. 1 : MCU MOSI connected. 2 : Next in chain, ...&#xA;  #endif&#xA;&#xA;  #if AXIS_IS_TMC(X2)&#xA;    #define X2_CURRENT      800&#xA;    #define X2_CURRENT_HOME X2_CURRENT&#xA;    #define X2_MICROSTEPS    16&#xA;    #define X2_RSENSE         0.11&#xA;    #define X2_CHAIN_POS     -1&#xA;  #endif&#xA;&#xA;  #if AXIS_IS_TMC(Y)&#xA;    #define Y_CURRENT       800&#xA;    #define Y_CURRENT_HOME  Y_CURRENT&#xA;    #define Y_MICROSTEPS     16&#xA;    #define Y_RSENSE          0.11&#xA;    #define Y_CHAIN_POS      -1&#xA;  #endif&#xA;&#xA;  #if AXIS_IS_TMC(Y2)&#xA;    #define Y2_CURRENT      800&#xA;    #define Y2_CURRENT_HOME Y2_CURRENT&#xA;    #define Y2_MICROSTEPS    16&#xA;    #define Y2_RSENSE         0.11&#xA;    #define Y2_CHAIN_POS     -1&#xA;  #endif&#xA;&#xA;  #if AXIS_IS_TMC(Z)&#xA;    #define Z_CURRENT       800&#xA;    #define Z_CURRENT_HOME  Z_CURRENT&#xA;    #define Z_MICROSTEPS     16&#xA;    #define Z_RSENSE          0.11&#xA;    #define Z_CHAIN_POS      -1&#xA;  #endif&#xA;&#xA;  #if AXIS_IS_TMC(Z2)&#xA;    #define Z2_CURRENT      800&#xA;    #define Z2_CURRENT_HOME Z2_CURRENT&#xA;    #define Z2_MICROSTEPS    16&#xA;    #define Z2_RSENSE         0.11&#xA;    #define Z2_CHAIN_POS     -1&#xA;  #endif&#xA;&#xA;  #if AXIS_IS_TMC(Z3)&#xA;    #define Z3_CURRENT      800&#xA;    #define Z3_CURRENT_HOME Z3_CURRENT&#xA;    #define Z3_MICROSTEPS    16&#xA;    #define Z3_RSENSE         0.11&#xA;    #define Z3_CHAIN_POS     -1&#xA;  #endif&#xA;&#xA;  #if AXIS_IS_TMC(Z4)&#xA;    #define Z4_CURRENT      800&#xA;    #define Z4_CURRENT_HOME Z4_CURRENT&#xA;    #define Z4_MICROSTEPS    16&#xA;    #define Z4_RSENSE         0.11&#xA;    #define Z4_CHAIN_POS     -1&#xA;  #endif&#xA;&#xA;  #if AXIS_IS_TMC(E0)&#xA;    #define E0_CURRENT      900&#xA;    #define E0_MICROSTEPS    16&#xA;    #define E0_RSENSE         0.11&#xA;    #define E0_CHAIN_POS     -1&#xA;  #endif&#xA;&#xA;  #if AXIS_IS_TMC(E1)&#xA;    #define E1_CURRENT      800&#xA;    #define E1_MICROSTEPS    16&#xA;    #define E1_RSENSE         0.11&#xA;    #define E1_CHAIN_POS     -1&#xA;  #endif&#xA;&#xA;  #if AXIS_IS_TMC(E2)&#xA;    #define E2_CURRENT      800&#xA;    #define E2_MICROSTEPS    16&#xA;    #define E2_RSENSE         0.11&#xA;    #define E2_CHAIN_POS     -1&#xA;  #endif&#xA;&#xA;  #if AXIS_IS_TMC(E3)&#xA;    #define E3_CURRENT      800&#xA;    #define E3_MICROSTEPS    16&#xA;    #define E3_RSENSE         0.11&#xA;    #define E3_CHAIN_POS     -1&#xA;  #endif&#xA;&#xA;  #if AXIS_IS_TMC(E4)&#xA;    #define E4_CURRENT      800&#xA;    #define E4_MICROSTEPS    16&#xA;    #define E4_RSENSE         0.11&#xA;    #define E4_CHAIN_POS     -1&#xA;  #endif&#xA;&#xA;  #if AXIS_IS_TMC(E5)&#xA;    #define E5_CURRENT      800&#xA;    #define E5_MICROSTEPS    16&#xA;    #define E5_RSENSE         0.11&#xA;    #define E5_CHAIN_POS     -1&#xA;  #endif&#xA;&#xA;  #if AXIS_IS_TMC(E6)&#xA;    #define E6_CURRENT      800&#xA;    #define E6_MICROSTEPS    16&#xA;    #define E6_RSENSE         0.11&#xA;    #define E6_CHAIN_POS     -1&#xA;  #endif&#xA;&#xA;  #if AXIS_IS_TMC(E7)&#xA;    #define E7_CURRENT      800&#xA;    #define E7_MICROSTEPS    16&#xA;    #define E7_RSENSE         0.11&#xA;    #define E7_CHAIN_POS     -1&#xA;  #endif&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, this picture represents the jumper set-up used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TyGRQ.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;UART Jumper Set-up&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TyGRQ.png&quot; alt=&quot;UART Jumper Set-up&quot; title=&quot;UART Jumper Set-up&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27688" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2021-04-11T02:26:10.487" LastActivityDate="2022-05-29T17:39:38.143" Title="Dual Z-axis has different speeds (out of sync)" Tags="|z-axis|stepper-driver|stepper|speed|dual-nozzle|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16072" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-04-11T05:41:59.923" Score="2" ViewCount="353" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an Ender 3 v2 and just installed the Ender Extender 400XL and a new BLTouch. I need to modify firmware for the new dimensions of 400x400x500 mm for the new kit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I changed all that and it seems to find the physical end stops, I haven't tried printing yet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But the BLTouch is an issue, at first it refused to move down as the pin was always up, so I changed: &lt;code&gt;#define Z_MIN_PROBE_ENDSTOP_INVERTING&lt;/code&gt; to &lt;code&gt;true&lt;/code&gt; from &lt;code&gt;false&lt;/code&gt;. Originally, the probe would tricky and stick to a triggered position. when changing it the true the probe now deploys but that's it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But, now when using the leveling feature it goes to the X an Y physical end stops, then goes to the middle of the bed, a few inches from the bed, doesn't do anything else and the software freezes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can't figure out why its locking up and why the Z wont move.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried using a Marlin firmware 2.0 for Creality Ender 3 v2 and I also tried a custom one for an Ender 3 v2.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What happens now:&#xA;If I use auto home it hits the Y and X end stops perfectly, go to the center of the bed the pin drops and retracts several times but the Z axis never moves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I try to use the leveling function the same happens, it gets to Z, the probe drops and retracts, Z never moves but then the software locks up completely. I have to power cycle the printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note, If I take the original firmware from &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.creality.com/download&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.creality.com/download&lt;/a&gt; it works, as expected. But of course it has the wrong dimensions as it is expecting the standard bed size not the XL Upgrade!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27818" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-04-11T21:10:01.660" LastActivityDate="2021-04-11T21:10:01.660" Title="Ender 3 v2 with Ender 400XL extender and BLTouch not working after installation" Tags="|creality-ender-3|firmware|bltouch|400xl|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16073" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15954" CreationDate="2021-04-11T06:39:35.483" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A quick solution is obtaining a pre configured configuration file for this custom extended version of the Ender 3. While it should be very easy to find configurations for Ender 3 with or without BLTouch, the only difference this extension has is an updated printer volume specification. A ready made configuration is found &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/teachingtechYT/Marlin/blob/Ender3-V2-BLtouch-extender/Marlin/Configuration.h&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; (please note that it contains an errand for the maximum build height, change &lt;code&gt;#define Z_MAX_POS 250&lt;/code&gt; to &lt;code&gt;#define Z_MAX_POS 500&lt;/code&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The basic changes are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;// The size of the print bed&#xA;#define X_BED_SIZE 400&#xA;#define Y_BED_SIZE 400&#xA;&#xA;Z_MAX_POS 500&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2021-04-11T06:39:35.483" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16076" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7228" CreationDate="2021-04-11T18:21:48.817" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;W.R.T &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/10247/4762&quot;&gt;Nach0z's answer&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Third, the process of seasoning cast iron works because the surface of the cast iron should be smooth for minimal food sticking, and any kind of rusting causes pits and porosity in the metal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You season a cast iron pan to create a carbon layer on top of the metal. Water should not be left standing in a cast iron skillet. For my 3D printers I replace the Bowden tube once a year. It cures many problems for me. I suspect that over time the filament cause abrasion in the tube that increases friction. I also do a teardown and cleaning of the extruder in the same interval.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27841" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-04-11T23:33:14.420" LastActivityDate="2021-04-11T23:33:14.420" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16077" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16119" CreationDate="2021-04-11T20:56:16.700" Score="4" ViewCount="364" Body="&lt;p&gt;My printer uses an ATMega 2560 with a RAMPS 1.4 shield, A4988 stepper drivers and a 2004 controller LCD interface. The PSU is 360 W (12 V, 30 A).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I bought a BLTouch for my printer, but when installing, Marlin is restarting and is unable to complete the boot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I realized that this problem happens when it is being powered only by the PSU. When it is started by USB, it works normally.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note, the USB + PSU combination, when the system (Marlin) has been started by USB, also works normally.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried to configure the servo in other positions (0, 1, 2 or 3), but the results were the same:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;USB starts = Ok&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;PSU starts = infinite restart&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another possibility that I tested, was to change the BLTouch for a SG90 micro servo, to check if it was not a problem in the equipment. The result was the same:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;USB starts = Ok&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;PSU starts = infinite restart&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In fact there seems to be some problem between ATMega 2560 and the RAMPS 1.4, when powered by the PSU.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know how to solve the problem?&#xA;In the last case, would the exchange of ATMega 2560 + RAMPS 1.4 be the solution?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27845" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-04-15T07:31:13.393" LastActivityDate="2021-04-18T15:32:53.030" Title="Marlin is restarting when pins 5 Vcc are enabled and has a servo motor connected (RAMPS 1.4)" Tags="|marlin|bed-leveling|ramps-1.4|bltouch|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16078" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-04-12T11:06:49.983" Score="3" ViewCount="2688" Body="&lt;p&gt;I replaced the fans of my ender 3v2 with Noctuas &amp;amp; Buck converters. During the replacement, I made a mistake and burnt the motherboard (shorted one of the fans). I replaced the motherboard, finished the wiring. The new motherboard is the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B08LVWBZBY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;psc=1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Creality Ender 3 V2 &lt;code&gt;V4.2.7&lt;/code&gt; Silent Motherboard 32 Bit Mainboard with TMC 2225 Drivers&lt;/a&gt; from amazon. The old board with the exact same, but in version &lt;code&gt;4.2.2&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The printer works and auto-home runs normally with marlin (all options by default). Name of the binary: &lt;code&gt;Ender-3 V2_32bit_4.2.7_BLTouch_Marlin_2.0.1_V1.1.1_TMC2225&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Klipper version: &lt;code&gt;FIRMWARE_VERSION:v0.9.1-160-g8a6619d1 FIRMWARE_NAME:Klipper&lt;/code&gt;&#xA;When the printer is running Klipper, controlled by an Octoprint, the steppers dont spin. I can hear the gentle &amp;quot;thud&amp;quot; of the motors being energized when I send a &amp;quot;auto-home&amp;quot; command, they rotate for like a baby step (feels like a single vibration more than a spin, like they're &amp;quot;trying&amp;quot; but don't have the power to actually move) and stay stuck there until the auto-home times-out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried running &lt;code&gt;STEPPER_BUZZ STEPPER=stepper_x&lt;/code&gt; and the same for the Y axis, but it doesn't look like anything is happening.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am more or less sure this is a software problem, since the printer works just fine with Marlin but I never had this problem with Klipper before I replaced the motherboard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have put aside my custom config and am using the &amp;quot;default&amp;quot; &lt;code&gt;printer.cfg&lt;/code&gt; config that I found &lt;a href=&quot;https://raw.githubusercontent.com/KevinOConnor/klipper/master/config/printer-creality-ender3-v2-2020.cfg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; (copy/pasted below)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;# This file contains pin mappings for the stock 2020 Creality Ender 3&#xA;# V2. To use this config, during &amp;quot;make menuconfig&amp;quot; select the&#xA;# STM32F103 with a &amp;quot;28KiB bootloader&amp;quot; and serial (on USART1 PA10/PA9)&#xA;# communication.&#xA;&#xA;# If you prefer a direct serial connection, in &amp;quot;make menuconfig&amp;quot;&#xA;# select &amp;quot;Enable extra low-level configuration options&amp;quot; and select&#xA;# serial (on USART3 PB11/PB10), which is broken out on the 10 pin IDC&#xA;# cable used for the LCD module as follows:&#xA;# 3: Tx, 4: Rx, 9: GND, 10: VCC&#xA;&#xA;# Flash this firmware by copying &amp;quot;out/klipper.bin&amp;quot; to a SD card and&#xA;# turning on the printer with the card inserted. The firmware&#xA;# filename must end in &amp;quot;.bin&amp;quot; and must not match the last filename&#xA;# that was flashed.&#xA;&#xA;# See docs/Config_Reference.md for a description of parameters.&#xA;&#xA;[stepper_x]&#xA;step_pin: PC2&#xA;dir_pin: PB9&#xA;enable_pin: !PC3&#xA;microsteps: 16&#xA;rotation_distance: 40&#xA;endstop_pin: ^PA5&#xA;position_endstop: 0&#xA;position_max: 235&#xA;homing_speed: 50&#xA;&#xA;[stepper_y]&#xA;step_pin: PB8&#xA;dir_pin: PB7&#xA;enable_pin: !PC3&#xA;microsteps: 16&#xA;rotation_distance: 40&#xA;endstop_pin: ^PA6&#xA;position_endstop: 0&#xA;position_max: 235&#xA;homing_speed: 50&#xA;&#xA;[stepper_z]&#xA;step_pin: PB6&#xA;dir_pin: !PB5&#xA;enable_pin: !PC3&#xA;microsteps: 16&#xA;rotation_distance: 8&#xA;endstop_pin: ^PA7&#xA;position_endstop: 0.0&#xA;position_max: 250&#xA;&#xA;[extruder]&#xA;max_extrude_only_distance: 100.0&#xA;step_pin: PB4&#xA;dir_pin: PB3&#xA;enable_pin: !PC3&#xA;microsteps: 16&#xA;rotation_distance: 34.406&#xA;nozzle_diameter: 0.400&#xA;filament_diameter: 1.750&#xA;heater_pin: PA1&#xA;sensor_type: EPCOS 100K B57560G104F&#xA;sensor_pin: PC5&#xA;control: pid&#xA;# tuned for stock hardware with 200 degree Celsius target&#xA;pid_Kp: 21.527&#xA;pid_Ki: 1.063&#xA;pid_Kd: 108.982&#xA;min_temp: 0&#xA;max_temp: 250&#xA;&#xA;[heater_bed]&#xA;heater_pin: PA2&#xA;sensor_type: EPCOS 100K B57560G104F&#xA;sensor_pin: PC4&#xA;control: pid&#xA;# tuned for stock hardware with 50 degree Celsius target&#xA;pid_Kp: 54.027&#xA;pid_Ki: 0.770&#xA;pid_Kd: 948.182&#xA;min_temp: 0&#xA;max_temp: 130&#xA;&#xA;[fan]&#xA;pin: PA0&#xA;&#xA;[mcu]&#xA;serial: /dev/serial/by-id/usb-1a86_USB_Serial-if00-port0&#xA;restart_method: command&#xA;&#xA;[printer]&#xA;kinematics: cartesian&#xA;max_velocity: 300&#xA;max_accel: 3000&#xA;max_z_velocity: 5&#xA;max_z_accel: 100&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What could be causing the steppers to be stuck with Klipper, but work with Marlin ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I tried, with no success (as advised by the internet):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Untighten the belts&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Remove the &lt;code&gt;!&lt;/code&gt; from &lt;code&gt;enable_pin: !PC3&lt;/code&gt; in the config&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Re-build &amp;amp; flash the firmware instead of reusing the old bin I had kept&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12378" LastEditorUserId="12378" LastEditDate="2021-04-12T12:35:32.683" LastActivityDate="2021-04-12T15:03:43.953" Title="Steppers stuck with Klipper but work with Marlin" Tags="|creality-ender-3|firmware|klipper|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16079" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16059" CreationDate="2021-04-12T12:00:09.727" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;What you are looking at is the top of a Makerbot MK10-style hotend. It appears that the filament has snapped off at the entry of the heat break at the top of the cold end. The image below shows how the hotend is constructed, from top to bottom, brasss nozzle, heater element block, heat break (with PTFE liner, or not if it is an all metal hotend) and the cold end cooling block.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vj396.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vj396.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You indeed have a jam if an increased temperature cannot push the filament out. What you can try is to heat up the hotend (above the normal filament printing temperature, e.g. 10-20 °C higher; a too high temperature can cause filament to carbonize) with the feeder stepper removed pushing a 1.5 mm drill bit from the top of the heat break and see if you can push the obstruction out. If you have a fine needle or a specific nozzle cleaning tool, you could try from the nozzle opening. If not, you need to take the hotend apart and need to consider to buy some spare parts (at least a new PTFE liner if present), this is usually more simple than cleaning the small parts. If it is ABS filament you can use acetone to dissolve the filament, but for PLA/PETG there are no simple solvents.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The image below shows an exploded view of the assembly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1Rl1P.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1Rl1P.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2021-04-12T14:31:34.747" LastActivityDate="2021-04-12T14:31:34.747" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16080" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16078" CreationDate="2021-04-12T13:04:28.900" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;It seems the pinout scheme changed on the Creality board between the versions &lt;code&gt;V4.2.2&lt;/code&gt; and &lt;code&gt;4.2.8&lt;/code&gt;. For example, &lt;code&gt;PB9&lt;/code&gt; &amp;amp; &lt;code&gt;PC2&lt;/code&gt; were inverted between &lt;code&gt;step_pin&lt;/code&gt; and &lt;code&gt;dir_pin&lt;/code&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using the following Klipper config (found &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/KevinOConnor/klipper/pull/3335/files&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;) allows the motors to do their job again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;[stepper_x]&#xA;step_pin: PB9&#xA;dir_pin: PC2&#xA;enable_pin: !PC3&#xA;step_distance: .0125&#xA;endstop_pin: ^PA5&#xA;position_endstop: 0&#xA;position_max: 235&#xA;homing_speed: 50&#xA;&#xA;[stepper_y]&#xA;step_pin: PB7&#xA;dir_pin: PB8&#xA;enable_pin: !PC3&#xA;step_distance: .0125&#xA;endstop_pin: ^PA6&#xA;position_endstop: 0&#xA;position_max: 235&#xA;homing_speed: 50&#xA;&#xA;[stepper_z]&#xA;step_pin: PB5&#xA;dir_pin: !PB6&#xA;enable_pin: !PC3&#xA;step_distance: .0025&#xA;endstop_pin: ^PA7&#xA;position_endstop: 0.0&#xA;position_max: 250&#xA;&#xA;[extruder]&#xA;max_extrude_only_distance: 100.0&#xA;step_pin: PB3&#xA;dir_pin: PB4&#xA;enable_pin: !PC3&#xA;step_distance: 0.010752&#xA;nozzle_diameter: 0.400&#xA;filament_diameter: 1.750&#xA;heater_pin: PA1&#xA;sensor_type: EPCOS 100K B57560G104F&#xA;sensor_pin: PC5&#xA;control: pid&#xA;# tuned for stock hardware with 200 degree Celsius target&#xA;pid_Kp: 21.527&#xA;pid_Ki: 1.063&#xA;pid_Kd: 108.982&#xA;min_temp: 0&#xA;max_temp: 250&#xA;&#xA;[heater_bed]&#xA;heater_pin: PA2&#xA;sensor_type: EPCOS 100K B57560G104F&#xA;sensor_pin: PC4&#xA;control: pid&#xA;# tuned for stock hardware with 50 degree Celsius target&#xA;pid_Kp: 54.027&#xA;pid_Ki: 0.770&#xA;pid_Kd: 948.182&#xA;min_temp: 0&#xA;max_temp: 130&#xA;&#xA;[fan]&#xA;pin: PA0&#xA;&#xA;[mcu]&#xA;serial: /dev/serial/by-id/usb-1a86_USB_Serial-if00-port0&#xA;&#xA;[printer]&#xA;kinematics: cartesian&#xA;max_velocity: 300&#xA;max_accel: 3000&#xA;max_z_velocity: 5&#xA;max_z_accel: 100&#xA;&#xA;[display]&#xA;lcd_type: st7920&#xA;cs_pin: PB12&#xA;sclk_pin: PB13&#xA;sid_pin: PB15&#xA;encoder_pins: ^PB14, ^PB10&#xA;click_pin: ^!PB2 &#xA;&lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;```&lt;/span&gt;&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12378" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2021-04-12T15:03:43.953" LastActivityDate="2021-04-12T15:03:43.953" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16081" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16070" CreationDate="2021-04-13T11:02:46.303" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I figured this out...&#xA;It was a firmware issue. I went to &lt;a href=&quot;https://forums.creality3dofficial.com/download/ender-series/ender-3-v2/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Creality's Forums&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;and found the appropriate firmware and now it auto homes as I would expect it should.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27807" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-04-13T17:14:52.700" LastActivityDate="2021-04-13T17:14:52.700" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16082" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-04-13T11:13:26.707" Score="1" ViewCount="34" Body="&lt;p&gt;Recently, I started experimenting with new filaments on my Ender 3 V2. I got a spool from &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B00VKSW6PS&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is PETG filament and I started dialing in the temperature to run a smooth print. I found on my V2, if I run the filament around 240 °C, it prints very smoothly and the extruder doesn't jitter or distort the filament during printing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I found after the printer was printing for about an hour it had reduced its hotend temperature to 210 °C and the print went bad! I have a stock hotend for the V2. Any thoughts as to why the temperature would have reduced itself?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27807" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-04-14T09:12:53.850" LastActivityDate="2021-04-14T09:12:53.850" Title="Ender 3 V2 hotend temperature issues" Tags="|creality-ender-3|temperature|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2021-04-14T10:43:25.950" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16083" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16065" CreationDate="2021-04-13T11:27:45.803" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The YL connectors are rated for wires as small as AWG 26 (and as big as AWG 16). If the power panic wires are smaller than this (or the power supply wires larger) you will need to use a different connector for them. Otherwise, I do not see a problem with mixing different wire gauges in the same connector.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastActivityDate="2021-04-13T11:27:45.803" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16084" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-04-13T12:17:13.677" Score="1" ViewCount="106" Body="&lt;p&gt;Problem with Creality v1.1.4 (Ender 3 Pro) and BLTouch (Creality V1 mainboard - upgraded version).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Error when attempting the firmware upgrade.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After downloading and executing &lt;code&gt;progisp.exe&lt;/code&gt;, I get the error message shown below:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/D08MK.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/D08MK.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27867" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-04-13T12:31:32.007" LastActivityDate="2021-04-13T12:31:32.007" Title="Ender 3 Pro firmware upgrade fails" Tags="|creality-ender-3|bltouch|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16085" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-04-13T12:38:52.610" Score="5" ViewCount="1245" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought an Ender 3 v2 in January 2021 for my second printer. I have had an Ender 3 for two years and love the quality it prints. This new printer has been plagued with issues since day one. Creality sent me a new mainboard and fan due to issues. Even since then my printer will still not print consistently. I checked all my belts and made sure the bed is leveled.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I print a test cube and it looks perfect. Then I will print a bigger longer print and sometimes it looks 100 % perfect with smooth layers and then I will print the exact same print from the same memory card and there will be ridges every couple of layers and the print turns out very rough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What would make this happen? I could understand if it always printed like this, but it is &lt;em&gt;completely random&lt;/em&gt;. This is all from the same filament spool and I only use Hatchbox. My Ender 3 hasn't had a single problem in the two years I have owned it besides changing out the Bowden tube twice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I use Cura for slicing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The following pictures are of the same print on the same printer using the same filament from the same file.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UJnPq.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Photo of print showing layers&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UJnPq.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Photo of print showing layers&quot; title=&quot;Photo of print showing layers&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/G34o9.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Close up photo of print showing layers&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/G34o9.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Close up photo of print showing layers&quot; title=&quot;Close up photo of print showing layers&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27868" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2021-08-30T08:11:51.473" LastActivityDate="2021-08-30T08:11:51.473" Title="Ender 3 v2 intermittent problem - clearly visible layers" Tags="|print-quality|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16086" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16041" CreationDate="2021-04-13T14:36:36.337" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Still don't have an actual answer as to why repairing the stl file didn't seem to work, but since my stl file was a combination of different stl files I tried repairing the individual stl files before combining them, which resolved the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27718" LastActivityDate="2021-04-13T14:36:36.337" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16087" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5905" CreationDate="2021-04-13T14:57:04.320" Score="-4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I hate to sound like the Toolman Tayler from that old TV show. &amp;quot;But, it comes down to More Power!&amp;quot;&#xA;Power is the ability to do work (move a mass certain distance) within certain amount of time.&#xA;Power =  mass x distance x Time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It can also be expressed in electrical terms, as the ability to heat something within certain amount of time.&#xA;Power = Voltage x Current&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since most systems have a fixed voltage, it is still possible to increase power by increasing the current, since,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Voltage = Resistance x Current,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And Power = Voltage x Current,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, Power =  (Resistance x Current) x Current.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So by switching a power supply with the same voltage, but higher current, it will provide additional power to the system. The larger current available would be able to flow through the heating elements, heating them up faster.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However the caveat will be the amount of heat dissipation in the system, the large surface of the bed, will carry away enough of the heat due to air convection, that it may not make much of a difference. Or perhaps the heating element may not handle the larger amount of current and burn out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It would be worth testing it out, in my humble opinion. Hopefully without causing a fire somewhere. :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27869" LastEditorUserId="27869" LastEditDate="2021-04-13T16:39:23.543" LastActivityDate="2021-04-13T16:39:23.543" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16088" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5905" CreationDate="2021-04-13T18:46:26.470" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A more powerful PSU only would solve the problem in two cases: Either your PSU is anemic and underpowered in the first place, or you want you'd separate the bed's power supply from the rest of the machine - by using a higher &lt;strong&gt;Voltage&lt;/strong&gt; for the bed. This would however need you to regulate the heating by having the board control not the bed directly but, control a (Normally Open for safety!) MOSFET, which in turn throttles the power to the bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In that case, you can use the resistance R of the bed with whatever voltage your alternate PSU provides to get the power that is turned into heat from the bed using &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$P_\text{bed}=\frac{U_\text{bed}^2}{R_\text{bed}}$&lt;/span&gt;. Our MOSFET can regulate the power that is turned into heat in the bed as it is a Variable Resistance: The total potential differential stays the same, but the voltage available to the heated bed is governed by the resistance of the bed and the MOSFET's resistance. Since the two are in line, they have the same Current flowing through them:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$$U_\text{supply}=U_\text{bed}+U_\text{MOSFET}=I_\text{total}\times(R_\text{bed}+R_\text{MOSFET})$$&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That results in what is commonly called a Voltage Divider: the voltage that is available for the bed comes from a derivate of that: &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$$U_\text{bed}=U_\text{supply}(\frac{R_\text{bed}}{R_\text{MOSFET}+R_\text{bed}})$$&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Why the hazzle?&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Often, a board also might have a potentiometer for each power exit, and these are generally nothing else but variable resistances - and give us the same effect as a MOSFET for controlling the voltage available to a bed. If available, turning the Bed-Potentiometer a tiny bit will provide just a little higher voltage to the bed and allow slightly faster heating.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2021-04-13T20:13:47.500" LastActivityDate="2021-04-13T20:13:47.500" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16089" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-04-14T09:58:17.817" Score="2" ViewCount="113" Body="&lt;p&gt;The extruder stepper 'E' of my Ender 5 stopped working some days ago and by looking at the motherboard I found out the inductor L3 burned.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a Creality V2.2 (CR-10S motherboard) and I would like to change the inductor but I can't find a single datasheet of the motherboard to help me find out the inductor value.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know it ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Jqc4q.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Jqc4q.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;The burned inductor&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27880" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-04-14T10:47:08.123" LastActivityDate="2021-04-14T10:47:08.123" Title="Do you know the inductor L3 value of the Creality V2.2 controller board?" Tags="|electronics|creality-ender-5|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16090" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16065" CreationDate="2021-04-14T11:38:16.560" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could use XT30 or XT60 connectors to sepparate the PSU from the Einsy. I have done it myself a few years ago on 4 Prusa's and it is working great. But I've only got the +/- cables, no power panic though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7182" LastActivityDate="2021-04-14T11:38:16.560" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16092" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-04-14T14:39:22.287" Score="2" ViewCount="268" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ive been experimenting will multiple color filament but the colors a more or less blended. Is there are filament that goes from one color directly to another without having transition color ex. red to green immediately.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've been tinkering with &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.filamenthub.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Filament Hub Filament&lt;/a&gt; and it is very good (some of the best I've ever used)  however I've had to essentially melt strands of one filament to the next and this is unsustainable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyone know any filaments or methods to have an immediate color change&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27885" LastActivityDate="2021-04-17T09:33:42.033" Title="Manual Color Changing" Tags="|3d-models|filament|diy-3d-printer|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16094" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16092" CreationDate="2021-04-14T17:34:28.363" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It takes at least a few cm of extrusion to purge the old color before switching to a new one due to mixing in the melt zone, and possibly much more depending on the particular pigments. If the old color is something bright like red and the new one is white or something close, it can even take many tens of cm before you get a clean new color.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Multi-color extrusion setups either use separate hotends per color or fancy retraction setups where each color can be retracted separately, along with purge towers. You cannot get a clean color switch in the print just by having one in the input filament, and this is probably why all the mixed color filament that's sold is blended - so customers don't get disappointed when it doesn't work like you expect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastEditorUserId="11157" LastEditDate="2021-04-14T17:42:21.290" LastActivityDate="2021-04-14T17:42:21.290" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16095" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16092" CreationDate="2021-04-15T07:54:47.080" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyone know any filaments or methods to have an immediate color change&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a solution (or multiple) where you can have multi color filament without a gradual transition from one to the other color (seen from the filament side, not the extrusion/nozzle side), i.e. immediate color change. This requires an additional piece of equipment to do this automatically, or could be done even manually&lt;sup&gt;1)&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are systems that calculate what color is needed for which part of the extrusion process and cut and pastes (welds) multiple colored strands of filament to a single strand of filament, see e.g.:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5D9An.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Mosaic Palette 3 Pro&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5D9An.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Mosaic Palette 3 Pro&quot; title=&quot;Mosaic Palette 3 Pro&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you look closely, you see that the single filament strand is composed of various colored strands welded together (4 colors, fifth being welded).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using multiple colors and single hotend wil require an extra extrusion of the new color to purge the hotend for a clean and crisp change. Slicers are already equipped to to this task for you, these are called purge towers, they print alongside the print and prevent too much blending of colors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gVwh8.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Printed part and purge tower&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gVwh8.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Printed part and purge tower&quot; title=&quot;Printed part and purge tower&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;em&gt;Source &lt;a href=&quot;https://peterleppik.com/articles/multimaterial-printing-palette-vs-mmu2&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Peter Leppik&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1)&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;em&gt;Note that an expensive device is not specifically necessary, with a little effort you can do it yourself. This requires slicing the part for multi colors (including a purge or printing purge tower to prevent mixing of colors) and parse the obtained G-code file to find all the respective lengths of the colors. These are easily found as a color change implies a tool changing script to be active in the G-code file, summing the individual lengths you could created your own filament by welding the individual colors together. Now remove the tool changes from the G-code file and you have created a &amp;quot;manual&amp;quot; multi-color print using a single hotend and extruder.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-04-17T09:33:42.033" LastActivityDate="2021-04-17T09:33:42.033" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16096" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16092" CreationDate="2021-04-15T12:38:24.613" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;When calling for a &lt;strong&gt;manual&lt;/strong&gt; color change, Marlin is set up to allow to extrude extra filament. This is to ensure that the new filament is in the hotend, but it also allows to &amp;quot;purge&amp;quot; the old color from the hotend by extruding till no mixed color comes out anymore.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastActivityDate="2021-04-15T12:38:24.613" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16097" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-04-15T16:08:36.530" Score="2" ViewCount="3874" Body="&lt;p&gt;Don't support bridge is a good idea to reduce support with acceptable print quality. But in this case, if I have a very long bridge and a short bridge, how do I tell the slicer to generate support only for the long bridge. How can I set some parameter like bridge length threshold?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21079" LastEditorUserId="21079" LastEditDate="2021-04-15T20:39:45.937" LastActivityDate="2021-04-15T20:39:45.937" Title="How to setup PrusaSlicer to support long bridges" Tags="|slic3r|prusaslicer|bridging|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16098" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16097" CreationDate="2021-04-15T18:17:10.223" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Regardless of the choice of long bridge support or short bridge support, Prusa Slicer 2.3.0 has a feature which allows forced support or allows forced no support.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/yqMXfvWA-aY?start=0&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In Advanced or Expert mode, there is an icon in the left tool bar for &amp;quot;paint-on&amp;quot; supports. The left mouse button paints on supports, while the right mouse button creates support blockers. Shift-left mouse button erases errant paint splatters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are more details in the linked video. It's not a parameter, but it is a means to determine where you want (or don't want) the supports.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to a thread in the &lt;a href=&quot;https://forum.prusaprinters.org/forum/original-prusa-i3-mk3s-mk3-hardware-firmware-and-software-help/prusa-slicer-undesired-bridging/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Prusa support forum&lt;/a&gt;, in order to have the enforcer and blockers operate as expected, configuration settings should be for supports off. This may have changed as the thread is older and may have been modified in newer releases.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastActivityDate="2021-04-15T18:17:10.223" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16099" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-04-15T18:34:39.373" Score="1" ViewCount="163" Body="&lt;p&gt;Flashed Marlin to my Tronxy XY-2 Pro but two things are happening:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I tried printing a rook but the print got shoved to the front left corner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;X is way off to the right when it homes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The computer homes the project to the center of the print bed  but when push comes to shove #1 happens.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is their anyway I can get the machine to start printing in the middle of the bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using Cura slicer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27900" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-05-20T11:47:29.690" LastActivityDate="2021-05-20T11:47:29.690" Title="How to center print head after Marlin upgrade?" Tags="|troubleshooting|tronxy-xy-2-pro|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16100" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-04-15T19:01:55.743" Score="1" ViewCount="260" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have Ender 3 v2 with BLTouch and Marlin 2.0.x software&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a problem on the first layer it allows come wrong the last problem I have it is the first layer it is not constant on the bed it comes good in some area and the worst in other areas with BLTouch install any help why did that happen?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These parts are printed together:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mkROC.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mkROC.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: this is photo after z hop the extrusion is not constant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RLJMX.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27901" LastEditorUserId="27901" LastEditDate="2021-04-19T16:04:40.923" LastActivityDate="2021-04-19T16:04:40.923" Title="First layer problem" Tags="|creality-ender-3|troubleshooting|bltouch|adhesion|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16101" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16092" CreationDate="2021-04-15T21:03:45.767" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is a way that you'd be able to do it but its not really conventional and could use up some filament:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Calculate out where you want it to stop. Then, when you want to change colors, you set your slicer to print a floating object in the air that isn't part of your print to purge out the old filament and prime the new one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That way, when it goes back to the print, there won't be any of your old color. You will just have to pause the print when you get to the point where you want to change color, and make sure it's not over your print, then takeout the old filament, and put the new one in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then let it purge, and you can grab the string of filament before it goes to the print. Or just pluck it off when the print is done. This is the only way that I could see this working without multiple spools of filament and multiple extruders.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27902" LastEditorUserId="16811" LastEditDate="2021-04-17T02:30:42.030" LastActivityDate="2021-04-17T02:30:42.030" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16102" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16100" CreationDate="2021-04-15T21:21:45.090" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There could be multiple reasons for this happening, the most probable cause would be that the bed isn't leveled properly, if you have an auto leveling bed I'd suggest that you give that a run through, I also found it personally helpful with mine (Ender 5 Plus) that if I did the manual leveling, so the four corners, then go and do the auto leveling. Another thing could be that the tip is snagging on the print, so make sure you clean that, and its also helpful if you add z hop if your printer supports that (the extruder will hop up when its not pushing filament out&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27902" LastActivityDate="2021-04-15T21:21:45.090" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16103" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16104" CreationDate="2021-04-16T02:32:46.070" Score="2" ViewCount="2555" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently bought a Titan Aero hot end which came with a 24 V 30 W heater cartridge from E3D.  I'd like to use this but the cable length is only 1 meter long and I need it to be 2 meters.  The ends terminate with prong connections and there is no polarity to the prongs.  How can I safely extend the leads one meter and then connect to my Duet 3 Mainboard 6HC?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should the cable terminate with a JST connector instead of the prongs to connect to the Duet board?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OVTbP.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OVTbP.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;heater cartridge&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bucyV.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bucyV.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;duet&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27750" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-04-16T02:42:08.067" LastActivityDate="2021-04-16T20:50:35.413" Title="Heater cartridge extension wiring" Tags="|hotend|wiring|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16104" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16103" CreationDate="2021-04-16T06:39:11.343" Score="3" Body="&lt;h1&gt;Heater polarity doesn't matter&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The heater cartridges are just large resistors and so polarity is irrelevant. Either can be positive or negative.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can extend the leads by cutting and splicing in ~20 gauge wires* to a two pin JST connector line you suggest.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*&lt;sup&gt;At 24 volts and 30 watts, you need &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.platt.com/CutSheets/Multiple/AWG%20Conductors.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;wire that is rated to carry at least 1.25 amps&lt;/a&gt;. The US National Electric Code dictates that this should be 20 gauge wire, but their standard is very conservative. Since you don't need to adhere to NEC codes, you could get away with something thinner (ie higher gauge number).&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16811" LastEditorUserId="16811" LastEditDate="2021-04-16T20:50:35.413" LastActivityDate="2021-04-16T20:50:35.413" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16106" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-04-16T12:26:27.173" Score="1" ViewCount="24" Body="&lt;p&gt;Where do I go for deeper knowledge about 3D printing functional parts?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to up my game a bit and design some more functional parts. In particular, I want to do more with boxes, organizers, and moving systems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For instance, I've found some &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iSBsBTMsGTk&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;YouTube videos showing hinge design&lt;/a&gt;, but I want more. I want more details on WHY they chose the pin to be 1.5 mm diameter, etc.  I want design options (can the hinge be somewhere other than halfway between top and bottom).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd also like to know how to do enclosures that snap together (same problem: YouTube shows me one or two designs, not much detail on why they are designed that way or how to change them if they snap off).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want box tops that can stay on. How do I make clasps? Sliding lids? Hinges with stops? Snaps?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I haven't even started to mention my desires to learn about levers/gears/etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can anyone recommend a good book? Or a course? Or a really good YouTuber?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23891" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-04-16T14:35:21.763" LastActivityDate="2021-04-16T14:35:21.763" Title="Source of design advice for modeling functional parts" Tags="|3d-design|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2021-04-17T07:09:18.323" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16107" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16103" CreationDate="2021-04-16T12:40:54.300" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;1 meter puts you far enough away from the heater than you don't need high temperature wiring to extend it.  The larger the guage(e.g. 20 guage) the less resistance you will add to the heater circuit.  This doesn't matter as long as you can still achieve your maximum temperature (if you can still achieve the same current without maxing out your voltage on the heater).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your sensor is where added series resistance is critical. Series resistance to the thermistor will give a negative error in the temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15075" LastActivityDate="2021-04-16T12:40:54.300" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16109" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16110" CreationDate="2021-04-16T20:02:02.580" Score="2" ViewCount="815" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm new to 3D printing, I just bought an Ender 3 V2 and I am having a lot of trouble with bed adhesion. After a lot of playing around it seems that the base value for Z is changing for every print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have been using &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3771049&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this Z-offset test&lt;/a&gt; model, dialing in my Z-offset during the print until I hit an acceptable value (eg. -0.15)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I then print the same model again, using the value I found above, it is way off again, and I have to dial it further down to maybe -0.40 and, if I repeat again, to 80.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have, of course, tried leveling my bed multiple times&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've just been scribbling down numbers and seeing them fail for two days now, so any help is much appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27912" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-04-16T21:24:14.320" LastActivityDate="2021-09-14T02:06:50.570" Title="Ender 3 V2 Z-axis base value changes for each print" Tags="|creality-ender-3|bed-leveling|z-axis|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16110" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16109" CreationDate="2021-04-17T00:20:24.793" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;After tightening the screws on the X-axis gantry and doing the bed leveling and test prints again it seems to have gotten better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, while I was under the impression that the V2's heated glass bed &lt;em&gt;should&lt;/em&gt; work well without adhesive, I applied a bit of glue stick and now my first print seems to have a perfect first layer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I may just have been confused because I needed to turn the Z-offset way down to get it to stick in the first place, and then tweaked it upwards to get nice lines, meaning I would have to dial it back down on next test print and so forth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27912" LastActivityDate="2021-04-17T00:20:24.793" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16111" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14864" CreationDate="2021-04-17T00:52:57.310" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I followed up with Prusa on this recently (a few months later) and they confirmed that there were issues with some belts but that this has been fixed in production.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To provide a better guarantee of quality, I opted to replace both the X and Y axis with genuine GATES 2GT PowerGrip GT3 belts. This has fixed the problem for me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23492" LastEditorUserId="23492" LastEditDate="2021-04-17T15:54:11.767" LastActivityDate="2021-04-17T15:54:11.767" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16113" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16117" CreationDate="2021-04-17T12:11:52.057" Score="2" ViewCount="2404" Body="&lt;p&gt;My custom 3D printer prints everything inverted. I guess this is a homing problem as the motor moves in correct direction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In Pronterface,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;if I press -Y — bed moves forward (towards the Y endstop)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;if I press +Y — bed moves backward (away from Y endstop)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;if I press -X — hotend moves left (towards the X endstop)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;if I press +X — hotend moves right (away from the X endstop)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;on RAMPS 1.4:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;X endstop is connected on the 1st pin&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Y endstop is connected on the 3rd pin&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Z endstop is connected on the 5th pin&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Pin 2, 4 &amp;amp; 6 are not used (are these for MAX_ENDSTOP ?))&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Below is my Marlin config&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#define X_MIN_ENDSTOP_INVERTING true // Set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.&#xA;#define Y_MIN_ENDSTOP_INVERTING true // Set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.&#xA;#define Z_MIN_ENDSTOP_INVERTING true // Set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.&#xA;#define X_MAX_ENDSTOP_INVERTING false // Set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.&#xA;#define Y_MAX_ENDSTOP_INVERTING false // Set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.&#xA;#define Z_MAX_ENDSTOP_INVERTING false // Set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.&#xA;#define Z_MIN_PROBE_ENDSTOP_INVERTING false // Set to true to invert the logic of the probe.&#xA;&#xA;#define X_HOME_DIR -1&#xA;#define Y_HOME_DIR -1&#xA;#define Z_HOME_DIR -1&#xA;&#xA;#define INVERT_X_DIR false&#xA;#define INVERT_Y_DIR false&#xA;#define INVERT_Z_DIR false&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have attached 3 photographs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Shows the Home position of hotend. Y Motor on back and Y endstop at front.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/M4Gcr.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/M4Gcr.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Home position of hotend&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol start=&quot;2&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Shows inverted print.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9SRBZ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9SRBZ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;inverted print&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol start=&quot;3&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pronterface screenshot (shows actual G-code file)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4ru5r.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4ru5r.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Pronterface screenshot&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried flipping the motor cables, but that inverts the motor direction&#xA;I also tried INVERT_Y_DIR true, but no luck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please help me. What am I doing wrong?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27919" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-04-18T05:54:33.463" LastActivityDate="2021-04-18T10:08:45.250" Title="Prints are mirrored in X-axis and inverted in Y-axis direction" Tags="|marlin|diy-3d-printer|homing|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16114" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-04-17T13:52:20.367" Score="1" ViewCount="233" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a cheap 3000 mW laser cutter that I'm trying to cut 3 mm black acrylic. I'm lowering the feed rate to try to get it to cut in one pass.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have the G-code for a small circle (16 mm) but it seems any feed rate below about 25 mm/min is being ignored and it uses 25 mm/min anyway. The laser cutter has been set up with GRBL 1.1h and I have checked that feed rate is being read in by GRBL correctly. If I set a feed rate of 35 mm/min, that is processed correctly - but it needs two passes to cut the acrylic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please see G-code below:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;G90 (use absolute coordinates)&#xA;M4 S0&#xA;S0 &#xA;G0 X9.6 Y18.16&#xA;S1000 &#xA;G1 X10.98 Y18.21 F20&#xA;G1 X12.27 Y17.99&#xA;G1 X13.48 Y17.55&#xA;G1 X14.58 Y16.9&#xA;G1 X15.56 Y16.07&#xA;G1 X16.41 Y15.1&#xA;G1 X17.12 Y14&#xA;G1 X17.68 Y12.82&#xA;G1 X18.06 Y11.56&#xA;G1 X18.26 Y10.28&#xA;G1 X18.27 Y8.98&#xA;G1 X18.08 Y7.7&#xA;G1 X17.82 Y6.88&#xA;G1 X17.48 Y6.11&#xA;G1 X17.06 Y5.39&#xA;G1 X16.56 Y4.72&#xA;G1 X16 Y4.11&#xA;G1 X15.37 Y3.55&#xA;G1 X14.7 Y3.06&#xA;G1 X13.98 Y2.63&#xA;G1 X13.22 Y2.27&#xA;G1 X12.43 Y1.98&#xA;G1 X11.62 Y1.77&#xA;G1 X10.8 Y1.63&#xA;G1 X9.15 Y1.6&#xA;G1 X7.62 Y1.89&#xA;G1 X6.23 Y2.47&#xA;G1 X4.99 Y3.3&#xA;G1 X3.93 Y4.34&#xA;G1 X3.06 Y5.55&#xA;G1 X2.41 Y6.89&#xA;G1 X1.98 Y8.33&#xA;G1 X1.81 Y9.83&#xA;G1 X1.91 Y11.35&#xA;G1 X2.3 Y12.85&#xA;G1 X2.99 Y14.3&#xA;G1 X3.38 Y14.87&#xA;G1 X3.8 Y15.4&#xA;G1 X4.27 Y15.87&#xA;G1 X4.76 Y16.29&#xA;G1 X5.29 Y16.67&#xA;G1 X5.84 Y17&#xA;G1 X6.42 Y17.29&#xA;G1 X7.02 Y17.53&#xA;G1 X7.64 Y17.74&#xA;G1 X8.28 Y17.92&#xA;G1 X8.94 Y18.05&#xA;G1 X9.6 Y18.16&#xA;S0 &#xA;M5 S0&#xA;G0 X0  Y0 Z0 (move back to origin)&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This G-code was produced with LaserGRBL (and modified by me, to no effect). I have tried &lt;code&gt;F1&lt;/code&gt;, &lt;code&gt;F2&lt;/code&gt;, &lt;code&gt;F3&lt;/code&gt;, &lt;code&gt;F4&lt;/code&gt;, &lt;code&gt;F5&lt;/code&gt;, &lt;code&gt;F10&lt;/code&gt;, and &lt;code&gt;F20&lt;/code&gt; and they all take the same amount of time to complete.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What can I do to perform a cut in one pass since these low feed rates appear to be ignored?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27921" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2021-04-17T15:14:45.493" LastActivityDate="2021-04-30T14:31:04.603" Title="GRBL with low feed rate not working" Tags="|troubleshooting|g-code|laser|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16115" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16118" CreationDate="2021-04-17T14:32:54.670" Score="0" ViewCount="121" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is a material called PETG. In addition, there is a medical solution called Clear Aligner to fix perplexed teeth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I use a 3D printer using PETG and make transparent apparatus?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The program I use gives transparent apparatus, 3-dimensional output in STL format. Do I get results if I send the STL file to the printer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23759" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2021-04-17T17:03:27.897" LastActivityDate="2021-04-18T06:40:32.573" Title="PETG and Clear Aligner?" Tags="|petg|medical|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16116" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15966" CreationDate="2021-04-17T15:36:08.430" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;After two weeks of working on different settings in different slicers, I finally have a profile which has improved the quality of my printings. It still has some overhangs, which I'm sure will improve by increasing the cooling flow like 0scar already mentioned.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is the profile bundle (for Prusa Slicer): &lt;a href=&quot;https://drive.google.com/file/d/1nvSK950zlEQtIUIpFnCav5-t5cN3E4HE/view?usp=sharing&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Link&lt;/a&gt; or see &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/16297/4762&quot;&gt;this answer&lt;/a&gt; below.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27546" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2021-05-16T16:14:30.347" LastActivityDate="2021-05-16T16:14:30.347" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16117" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16113" CreationDate="2021-04-17T15:39:52.493" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;For most Cartesian printers, the homing position is at the front-left corner of the build plate. End-stop switches can be at either end of each axis (and even both), but the firmware must be configured accordingly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A common arrangement is to have end-stop switches at X-min, Y-min and Z-min positions. You will see this on pretty much all budget printers, but things may be different on high-end machines. For the Y-axis on a cartesian machine, this mean placing the end-stop switch at the rear of the printer. A CoreXY machine on the other hand has the Y-min sensor on the front left corner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, unless your intentions were otherwise, you have simply got the Y-axis end-stop switch in the wrong position. For your design, it should be at the back of the printer, triggered by the bed in it's most backwards position. You will also need to reverse the direction of the Y-axis stepper motor, do that +Y moves the bed towards the operator (like you have it now).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to have the end-stop switch at the front of the printer for some reason, you will need to re-configure the firmware accordingly - it is an Y-max sensor in that position!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3953" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2021-04-18T10:08:45.250" LastActivityDate="2021-04-18T10:08:45.250" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16118" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16115" CreationDate="2021-04-17T16:45:03.503" Score="2" Body="&lt;h1&gt;No&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PETG is a material that can only be used in FDM machines. This precludes any internal medical use, as FDM prints can't be made sterile or even hygienic - the sterilization processes would destroy the print, and FDM layers create many spots for germs to grow. Atop that, you can't get the needed precision with FDM - which means any FDM prints are at best &lt;em&gt;waste&lt;/em&gt; at worst &lt;strong&gt;endangering the patient&lt;/strong&gt;!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In contrast, 3D printed metals and laser-printed nylon &lt;em&gt;can&lt;/em&gt; be created and post-processed in ways that do not have layer lines. Resin prints do &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; have layer lines that offer these discrete hiding spots for germs. They all are made in a fashion that kills germs or disallows them from being embedded and they can be properly sterilized or made hygienic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;No!&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PETG can't be printed completely clear in FDM. By the processing method, air and layer boundaries are included, making prints at least somewhat opaque.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Only Resin prints can be fully transparent as they contain neither boundaries nor air.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;NO!!!&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;STL files contain only surface data and need to be processed into printer readable format. G-code is one of those formats, commonly used in FDM machines and CNC machines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The processing from STL or other surface data into FDM-3D-printer G-code is done by a program called a slicer. Examples are Cura, PrusaSlicer, Slic3r, and many others.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Resin printers using DLP use different slicers that create images of the model's crossections together with some sort of machine code for the movement. For SLA machines, the code is entirely different again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Further Reading&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I highly suggest you read &lt;a href=&quot;https://all3dp.com/2/dental-3d-printing-guide/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;more about 3D printing dental applications&lt;/a&gt; before trying anything for dental use, and especially &lt;strong&gt;anything&lt;/strong&gt; that is printed for any medical application!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2021-04-18T06:40:32.573" LastActivityDate="2021-04-18T06:40:32.573" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16119" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16077" CreationDate="2021-04-17T17:45:50.943" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;PSU is only feeding 12 V into RAMPS, but (if I remember correctly) RAMPS is using Arduino's onboard regulator for converting 12 V to 5 V. That regulator can not provide much power.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you connect some significant load to any 5 V pin (like servo, LCD backlight, or BLTouch), the regulator will be overloaded and its output voltage will drop (too low or unstable voltage will prevent Arduino from running correctly).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can prove this hypothesis by measuring the voltage on any 5 V pin when Arduino is in &amp;quot;infinite restart&amp;quot;. It will likely be far below 5 V.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Connecting USB helps because it provides additional power for 5 V rail (but you may be overloading the computer's USB port by doing this).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The solution is to get an external 12 V to 5 V regulator (with enough power, something like 3 A should be ok) and connect it between PSU and some 5 V pin on RAMPS. (Or get PSU that has both 12 V and 5 V output)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you get an external 5 V supply, it may be a good idea to then completely disconnect RAMPS from Arduino's 5 V regulator. Have a look at &lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?219,799595&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?219,799595&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, the regulator on the Arduino board will likely be overheating and may get damaged (But regulators usually have some overcurrent protection so it probably will be OK)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The regulator is located somewhere near the power connector on the Arduino Mega board, Google &amp;quot;AMS1117&amp;quot; if you don't know how it looks. Replacement is possible with intermediate soldering skills. The regulator is only used when powering Arduino from power connector or Vin pin (RAMPS uses the Vin pin). If powered from USB or 5 V pin, it can run without it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27924" LastEditorUserId="27924" LastEditDate="2021-04-18T15:32:53.030" LastActivityDate="2021-04-18T15:32:53.030" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16120" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-04-18T00:39:50.887" Score="1" ViewCount="1040" Body="&lt;p&gt;With a fully stock Ender 3, the limiting factor is almost surely the extruder, not the hotend, so I'm asking from a standpoint of having an upgraded extruder (mine is direct drive) but stock hotend. I'm particularly interested in PLA but other materials would be nice to know as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I seem to be able to get PLA rates up to at least 12 mm³/s without skipping, and possibly higher - I haven't conducted any rigorous tests yet but with models where the max speed hasn't been sustained I've had success with rates as high as 16 mm³/s. If nobody has answers I may try to make this rigorous and post a self-answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm asking this question both to choose speeds I can consider reliable and as a starting point for readers considering whether an upgraded hotend is worthwhile for increasing print speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2021-04-18T00:39:50.887" Title="What volumetric extrusion rates can the Ender 3's stock hotend achieve?" Tags="|creality-ender-3|hotend|extrusion|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16121" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-04-18T02:30:30.093" Score="1" ViewCount="1569" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Creality CR-10 with EZABL (bed leveling sensor). I'm not sure what prompted the printer to think the center is the origin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The printer homes in the dead center of the bed to start the auto bed leveling process from there; it seems to think it's doing that at X=0, Y=0 (when the printer receives the command to auto-home and it's already positioned at the center of the bed, it interprets that position as X=0, Y=0.). I've got it set to probe the bed at 9 points, in a 3x3 grid, it starts in the center (as in: it doesn't move to the X and Y endstops), then moves to the right and grinds hard against the right side, then grinds hard against the back.  I'm not sure what to do, I've already tried recompiling and uploading and even resetting to firmware defaults with &lt;code&gt;M502&lt;/code&gt;. How do I get my printer to home correctly?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's my start G-code:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;M75 ; Start Print Timer and Engage Fil Sensor if USB Printing&#xA;M84 E ; Disable E Motor for probe accuracy on direct drive systems&#xA;M117 Antiblob retract...&#xA;G92 E0 ; Reset Extruder distance to 0&#xA;G1 E-2 ; Retracts filament to prevent blobs during probing&#xA;G92 E0 ; Reset Extruder distance to 0&#xA;M117 Homing All...&#xA;G28 ; home all axes&#xA;M117 Homing Z Probe...&#xA;G28 Z ; home z again&#xA;M117 Generating mesh...&#xA;G29; auto bed leveling&#xA;M117 Heaters Recovering...&#xA;G4 S10; wait for heaters to recover&#xA;M420 Z0; Z fade&#xA;M900 K0; LA&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18709" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-04-20T06:18:27.707" LastActivityDate="2021-04-20T06:18:27.707" Title="How can I get my printer to home correctly?" Tags="|creality-cr-10|homing|ezabl|th3d|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16122" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16113" CreationDate="2021-04-18T04:35:39.690" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Instead of changing firmware or changing the wiring, I flipped the motor direction. See the first photo below. Motor shaft was on the right side, now, the motor shaft is on left side, so the the bed moves backwards. I moved the Y endstop to back and now it prints fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;only the problem is&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In Pronterface,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;if I press -Y -- bed moves backward (towards the Y endstop - new position)&#xA;if I press +Y -- bed moves forward (away from Y endstop - new position)&#xA;&#xA;--- is this normal ?&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DXX1m.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DXX1m.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27919" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-04-18T05:23:50.547" LastActivityDate="2021-04-18T05:23:50.547" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16123" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-04-18T06:13:47.523" Score="1" ViewCount="395" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've had my Ender 5 Pro for 6 months now, printing happily and quite a lot. Some days ago, a print failed mid-way, and since then I've not been able to make it print properly. I've now spent days trying to trouble-shoot with no luck. I've changed the nozzle and capricorn tube, and have endlessly tried to level the bed, with no luck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The symptom I'm facing is mostly that the first layer doesn't print. Filament is extruded seemingly fine, but it is not squished properly into the bed. If I raise the bed sufficiently (and way too high according to my paper-test) to make the first layer stick, the print fails around layer 3 with what seems to me to be either over- or underextrusion, but may also just be a nozzle at the wrong height. The filament never sticks to the plate and just slowly accumulates around the nozzle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've read the endless amounts of &amp;quot;First layer problems&amp;quot; guides out there, and have tried to level the bed. While owning the printer, I've done that quite a few times in the past, and I think I got it right - but this time, no matter how much I try, I can't even get the initial Cura test-lines to stick. I've tried changing the print temperature, bed temperature, tried a different roll of filament, glue-stick on the bed. I also tried a different slicer, exact same results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems no matter what I do, even after levelling the bed, the nozzle is just too high up to make the first layer stick. I'm out of ideas now, and quite frustrated. Perhaps there's some z-offset I don't know about that makes the printer lift the nozzle too high when print starts? When levelling the bed, I do the paper-test, and the paper sticks quite tight between nozzle and bed. When the printer is in the home position, it says that it's at X0 Y0 Z0.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas what I should try?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27929" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-04-18T06:31:02.350" LastActivityDate="2021-04-18T06:31:02.350" Title="Nozzle too high on first layer after leveling" Tags="|bed-leveling|adhesion|creality-ender-5|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16124" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16125" CreationDate="2021-04-18T07:12:53.433" Score="1" ViewCount="84" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am new to 3D Printing and I have taken up a summer project. The project requires a fan 3D Printed, If I use a normal fan the airflow will make my project (i.e. a air-propelled car) go backward. Can we modify a fan so that when the fans spin my car goes forward? If yes, how?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27930" LastActivityDate="2021-04-19T10:17:04.497" Title="How can we control the airflow in a fan which can be 3D printed?" Tags="|3d-design|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16125" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16124" CreationDate="2021-04-18T11:51:51.783" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Look at your fan: it spins in one direction, and the blades push the air from one air to the other side. In fact, the fan is nothing but a propeller! There are ways &lt;a href=&quot;https://medium.com/@SimScale/how-to-optimize-a-propeller-design-c724329f97e&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;to optimize them&lt;/a&gt;. The Rotation goes for example clockwise, the leading edge &lt;em&gt;grabs&lt;/em&gt; the air and the trailing edge &lt;em&gt;releases&lt;/em&gt; it on the other side, and if the leading edge is towards you, then the air is pushed away. In the simplest way, it would suffice to physically flip the fan around.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A 3D printed new fan would need to have the whole geometry of the fan blades &amp;quot;flipped&amp;quot; (mirrored around a non-rotational axis). Now the leading edge of the fan is away from you, the trailing edge on your side, the airstream is again from the leading to the trailing edge, and the air comes out on your side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;cave!&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not all fans can be made to reverse the airflow by flipping the fan geometry: Radial fans just because less efficient.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other fans can be made spinning backwards by swapping the polarity, but others use a simple diode setup and always spin their way. Also note that fans spinning backwards often suffer from reduced efficiency, as the blade geometry is optimized for one direction of spinning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2021-04-19T10:17:04.497" LastActivityDate="2021-04-19T10:17:04.497" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16126" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-04-18T13:54:03.670" Score="1" ViewCount="681" Body="&lt;p&gt;As the title says, I have an Ender 3 Pro + BLtouch v3.1 and BigTreeTech SKR mini E3 v2.0. I have the SKR loaded with &amp;quot;firmware-bltouch-for-z-homing.bin&amp;quot; but my printer does not seem to be auto leveling. I'm fairly new to 3D printing and I have no idea what I am missing. My bed seems pretty warped but that isn't an issue for small print. For larger prints I think I think I need to enable mesh bed leveling but I'm not sure how.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have my start G-code setup as:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;; Ender 3 Custom Start G-code&#xA;M140 S{material_bed_temperature_layer_0} ; Set Heat Bed temperature&#xA;M190 S{material_bed_temperature_layer_0} ; Wait for Heat Bed temperature&#xA;M104 S160; start warming extruder to 160&#xA;G28 ; Home all axes&#xA;G29 ; Auto bed-level (BL-Touch)&#xA;M420 S1; enable auto bed-level?&#xA;G92 E0 ; Reset Extruder&#xA;M104 S{material_print_temperature_layer_0} ; Set Extruder temperature&#xA;G1 X0.1 Y20 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move to start position&#xA;M109 S{material_print_temperature_layer_0} ; Wait for Extruder temperature&#xA;; G1 Z2.0 F3000 ; Move Z Axis up little to prevent scratching of Heat Bed&#xA;G1 X0.1 Y200.0 Z0.3 F1500.0 E15 ; Draw the first line&#xA;G1 X0.4 Y200.0 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move to side a little&#xA;G1 X0.4 Y20 Z0.3 F1500.0 E30 ; Draw the second line&#xA;G92 E0 ; Reset Extruder&#xA;G1 Z2.0 F3000 ; Move Z Axis up little to prevent scratching of Heat Bed&#xA;; End of custom start GCode&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It heats up the bed, does the 5x5 auto level and then heats the extruder but when printing I do not see the Z axis moving throughout the first layer to compensate for the warped bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any help would be greatly appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I be using &amp;quot;firmware-bltouch.bin&amp;quot; instead and reinstall my Z switch?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27810" LastEditorUserId="4922" LastEditDate="2021-04-21T13:22:08.877" LastActivityDate="2022-05-16T18:02:35.290" Title="Ender 3 Pro with BLtouch + BigTreeTech Auto level not compensating" Tags="|creality-ender-3|bltouch|skr-mini-e3|bigtreetech|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16127" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-04-18T14:52:57.383" Score="1" ViewCount="102" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just recently got a printer, supposed to be a Prusa i3 Reprap clone. It came with Repetier firmware on it, and its previous owner had no idea about any calibration. I calibrated X-, Y-, and Z-axis along with the extruder, and now when I print a test cube it comes out with the right dimensions. But, the quality is horrible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm printing with 30 mm/s speed as shells, 15 mm/s as infill, infill percentage is above 60 %. I've tried everything I can think of, including suffering a temperature tower (which came out just wrong). What am I missing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/A9DZG.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/A9DZG.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;failed print 1&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;[&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uyLlg.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;failed print 2][2]&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27938" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-04-18T16:53:26.210" LastActivityDate="2021-04-18T16:53:26.210" Title="Horrid issues with printing with Anet A6?8?" Tags="|print-quality|ultimaker-cura|prusa-i3|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16129" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15079" CreationDate="2021-04-19T11:34:15.307" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;When a junction deviation is set too low it will mess up every other thing you have been trying to do to perfect your extrusion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It messes up&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;retraction,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;linear advance,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;s-curve,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the entire print.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had been messing around with my jerk and acceleration values, my retraction values, and my linear advance values, and no matter what I did, nothing fixed the actual issues. I even gave up on Bowden and tomorrow a Hemera direct drive will be delivered.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now I found this setting in my printer menu, changed the value from 0.017 to 0.2  and those bulging corners are now gone (in fact I had to up my linear advance a bit because it was actually rounding off the corners making them too thin).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The stringing is gone now as well (low jerk on retraction and you might as well not retract at all).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Seriously, unless you are using a CNC or CoreXY, I don't see why you would even use junction deviation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As to why nothing is changing for you, this is because other settings are bad as well. So it's still slowing down too much in the corners while material is still oozing out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27952" LastEditorUserId="4922" LastEditDate="2021-04-19T15:02:08.893" LastActivityDate="2021-04-19T15:02:08.893" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16130" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16132" CreationDate="2021-04-19T11:44:08.293" Score="3" ViewCount="547" Body="&lt;p&gt;Let's say I've made a 3D scan of my face and managed to get that into FreeCAD. How might I then create an object (it's a mask, okay?) that conforms to the shape of my face, with a given thickness, such that I can export and 3D-print that part only?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So if I printed it, it would fit over my face, but still look like my face from the outside, too. It would be, say, 3mm thickness througout.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To be clear, I'm not looking to make a 3D model of my head (the world does not need such a thing), or 3D model of a mold that I can use to replicate my head. I just want to make parts that conform to the shape of other, complex, parts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21089" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2021-04-19T14:07:51.087" LastActivityDate="2021-04-19T14:07:51.087" Title="Creating a 3D modelled &quot;mold over&quot; an imported object" Tags="|3d-models|blender|freecad|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16131" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16130" CreationDate="2021-04-19T12:45:45.950" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It depends on the software you're using, but here is an example with TinkerCad.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Step 1: Import your 3D model (imagine that the ball is a head):&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vZwKP.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vZwKP.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Step 2: Change its type from &amp;quot;Solid&amp;quot; to &amp;quot;Hole&amp;quot;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hyI2S.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hyI2S.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Step 3: Create a &amp;quot;Solid&amp;quot; box around your imported model.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is the inverted Solid/Hole version:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kNleK.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kNleK.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is the Solid version with the Hole model inside your Solid box:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DpOW2.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DpOW2.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Step 4: Select both models and group them:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rxE4J.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rxE4J.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Step 5: Add a box covering half of your mold (ideally splitting it in half):&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xumc5.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xumc5.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Step 6: Duplicate the mold and the box&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FBwsG.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FBwsG.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Step 7: Group the left mold with its surrounding box:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/21pUL.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/21pUL.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Step 8: Invert the box of the left mold by taking its left corner and dragging it over to the right side of the mold:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/piyeO.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/piyeO.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JQITx.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JQITx.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Step 9: Group the right box and the mold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Step 10: You now have two molds for each half of your model:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2JdUs.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2JdUs.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Based on your comment, I'm adding a couple more steps:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Step 11: Take your cast, duplicate it, enlarge the duplicate, make it a hole and fit it over your cast (like so):&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XIO7P.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XIO7P.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Step 12: Group the left cast with the larger &amp;quot;Hole&amp;quot; copy:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IFBvK.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IFBvK.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And if you're going to 3D print it and fit it over the old model, then you might want to enlarge the cast by a few mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's now up to you to figure out how to clamp the molds, inject them, and then separate them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A few things to keep in mind:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You might want to play with the placement of the model inside the mold a little better so it's not at the bottom of the mold but more towards the middle.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You could also get a bit more creative with the joining of the two molds by adding channels or some kind of way that they can fit into each other with greater precision. Here is an example: &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.etsystatic.com/6549005/r/il/271593/1763722747/il_794xN.1763722747_q1q2.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.etsystatic.com/6549005/r/il/271593/1763722747/il_794xN.1763722747_q1q2.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;mold&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If the parts are more complex, then the cast will be more challenging and might require to be split into more parts.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck! :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27951" LastEditorUserId="27951" LastEditDate="2021-04-19T13:23:50.550" LastActivityDate="2021-04-19T13:23:50.550" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16132" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16130" CreationDate="2021-04-19T13:14:03.563" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Instead of using FreeCAD, I would import the mesh data into a vertex-based 3D modeling software, such as blender.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After stitching the model in any areas where you still have gaps, you remove any vertex belonging to areas you do not want to use for the mask. This leaves you with pretty much a skin-tight base for your mask. Select all the remaining surfaces and scale &lt;code&gt;S&lt;/code&gt; them in all directions in regards to the origin so you create a little airgap 5% extra (&lt;code&gt;1.05&lt;/code&gt;) should create enough space to sit somewhat comfortably, but you might prefer a little more. As a stand-in for the face, I use this approximation of a forehead...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7ZUJ6.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7ZUJ6.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next, we thicken that surface using the modifier menu: Select the &lt;a href=&quot;https://docs.blender.org/manual/en/latest/modeling/modifiers/generate/solidify.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Solidify modifier&lt;/a&gt; and set a &lt;code&gt;thickness&lt;/code&gt; that looks good to you and that might be printable. Then make sure it pushes &lt;em&gt;away&lt;/em&gt; from where your face is. Also make sure the Offset is at &lt;code&gt;1&lt;/code&gt; or &lt;code&gt;-1&lt;/code&gt; to ensure that it does not stick out from the face-scan surface to the back!&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/s5sBk.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/s5sBk.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now you got a perfect base to model on the outside of using the sculpt features while retaining the inner surface! Do yourself a favor though: print at least part of this model as a test fit and adjust the mask as needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2021-04-19T13:23:17.023" LastActivityDate="2021-04-19T13:23:17.023" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16133" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-04-19T16:55:10.340" Score="1" ViewCount="804" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a problem in regards to filament jam, however I don't think that my case is any related to the extruder nozzle.&#xA;After 30 to 40 minutes printing my filament bends and get stuck on the tube entrance.&#xA;To print a nut wheel which comes as a demo file, I had to repeat the operation 4 times, and I had to stop printing when it got stuck, and continue with the printing, which led to a small imperfection.&#xA;What's the problem? The filament? The printer? Myself?&#xA;I have a Voxelab Aquila (completely new) and the filament u just a generic PLA from Amazon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SkWzF.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SkWzF.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Filament jam&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Hs1qY.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Hs1qY.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Filament jam from another angle&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9830" LastActivityDate="2021-06-22T18:36:04.507" Title="Filament jam on the tube entrance" Tags="|filament-jam|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16134" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16133" CreationDate="2021-04-19T18:22:27.443" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Something is stopping the filament from going down the tube 30 to 40 min. after you start printing.  You are correct that this doesn't sound like a clogged nozzle.  It could be deformed filament, but the closeness of the timing after the start sounds like heat creep.  Other possibilities are also listed at the linked stackexchange article.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: with heat creep the filament will not jam in the tube.  It will jam just above the nozzle on a Bowden tube extruder; thus the filament stops going down the tube.  The tube entrance is probably the largest location the tube can kink, although not very large.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/15629/what-are-ways-to-avoid-heat-creep&quot;&gt;What are ways to avoid heat creep?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15075" LastEditorUserId="15075" LastEditDate="2021-04-19T18:44:17.367" LastActivityDate="2021-04-19T18:44:17.367" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16135" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-04-19T22:10:27.090" Score="1" ViewCount="2556" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am getting this error when I try to enable the Z2 driver for MKS Gen L V2.1&#xA;Could anyone help?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Error &amp;quot;TMC2208 or TMC2209 on Z2 requires Z2_HARDWARE_SERIAL or Z2_SERIAL_(RX|TX)_PIN.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27688" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-09-17T22:15:33.640" LastActivityDate="2023-01-25T04:21:38.543" Title="Error &quot;TMC2208 or TMC2209 on Z2 requires Z2_HARDWARE_SERIAL or Z2_SERIAL_(RX|TX)_PIN" Tags="|stepper-driver|mks|tmc2209|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16136" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16135" CreationDate="2021-04-19T23:33:16.920" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your question is missing important information, but I can try to figure out something. You didn't say what kind of firmware it is. I assume it is Marlin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your problem is that there are no Tx Rx pins specified for Z2 (because there is X, Y, Z, E0, E1 by default on the MKS Gen L board)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I assume you want to use the E1 driver for the Z2 instead of a second extruder. In that case, you have to tell the firmware that you want to use that driver for Z2.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Search the source code for file &amp;quot;pins_MKS_GEN_L_V21.h&amp;quot;&#xA;There should be E1_SERIAL_TX_PIN and E1_SERIAL_RX_PIN defined.&#xA;Rename them to Z2_SERIAL_TX_PIN and Z2_SERIAL_RX_PIN.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mqMKc.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mqMKc.png&quot; alt=&quot;driver uart pins&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In &amp;quot;pins_RAMPS.h&amp;quot; file, find a block of a few lines that starts &amp;quot;E1_STEP_PIN&amp;quot;, and rename E1 to Z2 for all those lines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2MBBK.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2MBBK.png&quot; alt=&quot;driver pins&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It may (or may not) work now. If it doesn't, please somehow post those configuration files.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27924" LastActivityDate="2021-04-19T23:33:16.920" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16137" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16224" CreationDate="2021-04-20T01:33:35.120" Score="0" ViewCount="184" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just replaced the board on my Creality CR-10 with a 32-bit SKR Mini E3 V2.0 control board that runs Marlin 2.0.  With the new control board, the printer's Y-Axis moves vibrate so much that it blurs the camera I am using that is connected to the bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have checked the mechanical stuff and it seems like the issue is the stepper motors are running choppily instead of smoothly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know that 32-bit Marlin has lots of things I can tweak.  Are there settings I should be checking?  Where do I start?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1349" LastActivityDate="2021-04-30T23:22:11.530" Title="Printer shaking - Marlin 2.0" Tags="|marlin|stepper-driver|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16138" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-04-20T02:58:07.433" Score="1" ViewCount="1803" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm working on a project to design some custom 3D printed parts for an indoor urban farm where the environment has a very high humidity of above 80%. What would be the best filament to use that will be able to handle this conditions. Are there any coatings that I can use to protect the parts from absorbing moisture?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27946" LastActivityDate="2021-04-20T09:25:31.177" Title="Best filament to use in high humidity environment?" Tags="|filament|filament-choice|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2021-04-21T07:12:45.937" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16139" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16138" CreationDate="2021-04-20T09:25:31.177" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;You don't provide information about the part, but in general PETG, ABS, ABS plus/Pro and ASA are not going to have any issue with humidity for a long time. If it's outdoor, avoid ABS and use PETG or ASA.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is important is to keep the filament dry BEFORE printing. After printing, no problem. In fact, nylon after printing can be wet on purpose to significantly increase impact strength (and reduce tensile strength).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PLA in high humidity environment may lose some of its strength, but there are PLA parts under the rain which hold perfectly for long time, if they are not loaded significantly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2338" LastActivityDate="2021-04-20T09:25:31.177" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16141" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-04-21T04:08:50.807" Score="3" ViewCount="193" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am currently trying to print a company logo on another part I have printed in a different colour. To try and maximise the strength of the part, I need to print the part on a different orientation to what I intend on printing the logo on. As a result I need to in a sense re-adhere the part to the bed so I can print the logo. I am using PLA filament on a spring steel sheet (the default sheet with a Prusa Mini).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas would be appreciated before I accept defeat and just glue the parts together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27976" LastActivityDate="2021-04-25T14:30:11.220" Title="What is the best way to adhere an old printed part to the bed?" Tags="|adhesion|multi-material|prusa-mini|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16142" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13614" CreationDate="2021-04-21T07:34:48.333" Score="1" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Z offset in Cura&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Z offset in Cura is nothing more than an additional increase/decrease in height calculated throughout the whole file. This does require the installment of a plugin from the Ultimaker Cura &amp;quot;Marketplace&amp;quot; called &amp;quot;Z Offset Setting&amp;quot; by developer &amp;quot;fieldOfView&amp;quot;. This should work (if not, this implies the plugin is defective, version 3.5.7 appears to work as it should which is the latest version to date), the G-code is parsed (as in post-processed) by the plugin to recalculate all Z values (a redefinition of the Z level with &lt;code&gt;G92&lt;/code&gt; might have been a lot easier...), as an example an object is sliced without an offset, a negative offset (-0.333 mm) and a positive offset (0.333 mm) below. The layer numbered &lt;code&gt;;LAYER:0&lt;/code&gt; will start printing at:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No offset:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;G0 F4285.7 X81.669 Y84.791 Z0.27&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Negative offset:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;G0 F4285.7 X81.669 Y84.791 Z-0.063 ;adjusted by z offset&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Positive offset:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;G0 F4285.7 X81.669 Y84.791 Z0.603 ;adjusted by z offset&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Z offset in firmware&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A Z offset is the distance between the nozzle and the build plate surface that is needed for good adhesion. This is obtained from levelling the bed putting a piece of A4/Letter paper in between the nozzle and build plate during levelling of the bed. Basically this is an offset from the endstop position. Using the menu of a Marlin operated printer you can manually adjust this value e.g. during printing of the first layer by turning the jog dial for Z babystepping. The paper levelling method is a manual/mechanical Z offset that can be extended with the value changed by the menu. When storing such an offset you basically change the offset from the endstop position, this can be done with &lt;a href=&quot;https://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M206.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;G-code &lt;code&gt;M206&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/a&gt;. Storing the value to be retained for future prints, the value needs to be stored to memory (using &lt;a href=&quot;https://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M500.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;G-code &lt;code&gt;M500&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/a&gt; or an equivalent save settings from the menu of the printer controller).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Note this offset is something different when using a Z probe. The Z probe offset in firmware is set by &lt;code&gt;M851&lt;/code&gt; or &lt;code&gt;G29.1&lt;/code&gt;, depending on the used firmware.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2021-04-21T07:34:48.333" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16143" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16141" CreationDate="2021-04-21T10:54:47.467" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Adherence is the 3D printer's worst enemy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I use painter's tape, but I heard that you can if you need to remove and re-stick it back, heat the part lightly with a lighter and re-stick it back to the bed. Never tried but I'm guessing you would need to cool the bed, heat the part, and stick it back then reheat the bed and continue to print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Glue sticks can maybe help or even hot glue. But I would be afraid in that case that the part wouldn't be level hence the glue would be to tick.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27979" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-04-21T17:11:35.007" LastActivityDate="2021-04-21T17:11:35.007" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16146" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2021-04-21T13:20:09.733" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2021-04-21T13:20:09.733" LastActivityDate="2021-04-21T13:20:09.733" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16147" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2021-04-21T13:20:09.733" Score="0" Body="For bigtreetech displays, drivers, modules, motherboards." OwnerUserId="4922" LastEditorUserId="4922" LastEditDate="2021-04-21T17:11:48.010" LastActivityDate="2021-04-21T17:11:48.010" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16148" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7683" CreationDate="2021-04-21T15:40:08.917" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your nozzle might be blocked. Check that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My printer worked fine for the first ~500 g ABS. Then I started to hear the clicking/popping when the print required high material flow. The hose connector that attaches to the top of the extruder ended up giving up the ghost and it released the PTFE tube, creating spaghetti in the printer before I got a chance to stop it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, I replaced the hose connector, but the printer was still popping when material flow was high. I followed the steps for clearing out the nozzle. I wanted to clear it until I could see light coming through the nozzle, so removed the nozzle and used heated needles to poke through.  This is where I figured out that there was something stuck in the nozzle...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I looked at my broken hose connector, and sure enough, the clamping/retaining ring inside of the hose connector was broken and fragmented. It would appear that a chunk of the ring got lodged in my nozzle.  I couldn't figure out a way to clear the nozzle so I just bought a new one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27982" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-04-21T17:10:54.957" LastActivityDate="2021-04-21T17:10:54.957" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16149" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-04-21T17:12:48.047" Score="3" ViewCount="1066" Body="&lt;p&gt;Upgrading motherboard to v4.2.7   How do I reset the firmware after making wrong mods?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27899" LastActivityDate="2021-04-21T17:30:38.350" Title="Ender 3 Pro, Motherboard v4.2.7, Marlin 2.0.1 Firmware reset" Tags="|marlin|firmware|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16150" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16149" CreationDate="2021-04-21T17:30:38.350" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could download the firmware version &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.creality3dofficial.com/pages/firmware-download&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;directly from the vendor&lt;/a&gt; and choose &lt;a href=&quot;https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1W3Ed91h_GtFX0gpw1lHDAy3wYvpkzEmG&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;the one&lt;/a&gt; that is supposed to be on the board when it was shipped to you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Put the bin file on the SD card from your laptop/computer and reinsert the SD card in the printer and start the printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2021-04-21T17:30:38.350" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16151" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16141" CreationDate="2021-04-21T19:08:17.840" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have not done this, but I believe this is the best method and I want to test it at some point soon:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Model a negative for the footprint of the part you want to adhere to the bed, in the orientation you want to adhere it, with just a few mm of height, and clearance suitable for your printer (probably around 0.25 mm) in the XY plane, and print that with thick extrusions on the initial layer so that it adheres well to your bed. It should look exactly like a &amp;quot;thickened brim&amp;quot; for the part you want to re-adhere. Don't let the bed cool after printing it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, you have a slot to insert your part into that will not only hold it to the bed, but holds it to particular coordinates you chose to print at, which you can align to the coordinates of the new model you want to print on top of it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can't get the clearances right to hold without knocking off the negative footprint from the bed, you could try adding some threaded holes to it, so that you can put a couple set screws through it to hold the part in place. This technique can also be used if you want to avoid modeling a full negative (e.g. if you don't have the original in CAD form where you can easily negative it) - just print a few posts to hold set screws in approximately the right places on the bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2021-04-21T19:08:17.840" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16152" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-04-21T22:01:21.840" Score="0" ViewCount="572" Body="&lt;p&gt;The printer isn't pushing out filament.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm using the filament that came with the printer, and I know it's not the nozzle. I've tried to get the metal piece surrounding that goes from the Bowden connector to the extruder off, but I can't seem to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any ways to fix this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bU1OO.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Photo of extruder&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bU1OO.png&quot; alt=&quot;Photo of extruder&quot; title=&quot;Photo of extruder&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27991" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-04-22T06:28:54.030" LastActivityDate="2021-04-22T06:28:54.030" Title="My Monoprice Select Mini v2 isn't pushing out filament and it isn't the nozzle" Tags="|extrusion|monoprice-select-mini|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16153" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16152" CreationDate="2021-04-21T23:47:33.680" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The push to release connection on the top of the heat sink may be secured with thread lock adhesive, but you should not have to remove it. Push the blue ring downward while pulling upward on the bowden tubing. It may be necessary to work it up and down while you push down on the blue locking fitting. I have to use a pair of pliers to hold the blue ring down while wiggling the bowden tube up and down, as it is rather tiny.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you have the tubing removed, check for high friction in the now-released bowden tube. Push filament from the extruder drive mechanism and observe how easily it passes through the tube to the open end. If you do not experience clogging, the problem resides in the heat sink/heat break/heater block area.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's not uncommon for the nozzle to have an excessive gap between the heat break and the nozzle. This will allow for cooled filament to jam, preventing normal feeding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the &lt;a href=&quot;https://help.prusa3d.com/en/article/extrusion-stopped-mid-print_1948&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Prusa support&lt;/a&gt; site:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IweFv.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IweFv.png&quot; alt=&quot;hot end cutaway&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Notice that the collet is visible in the photo and appears to hold a longer section of PTFE tubing. It should enter your heat sink until it bottoms against the recess cut into the metal. If it does not, you have the possibility (slim) of jamming in that locations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Notice also that the nozzle is not flush against the heater block. The heatbreak is threaded into the block with the nozzle slightly lower than flush. This ensures a proper flow from the entry point to the nozzle. If it is not properly secured at either end, the heat break can bulge with filament that cools and creates the jam.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastActivityDate="2021-04-21T23:47:33.680" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16154" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-04-22T01:02:18.357" Score="2" ViewCount="599" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been having issues with thermal runaways lately due to random temperature spikes on my Ender 3.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I figured it was out of calibration so I did a PID tune and still had issues. I then replaced the thermistor and I'm still having issues. I'm going to try replacing the heater element tonight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, if anyone has some suggestions, please let me know.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JQyCo.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Plot of temperature spikes&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JQyCo.png&quot; alt=&quot;Plot of temperature spikes&quot; title=&quot;Plot of temperature spikes&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27994" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2021-04-22T02:02:57.540" LastActivityDate="2021-04-22T12:51:15.193" Title="Random hot-end temperature spikes" Tags="|hotend|thermal-runaway|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16155" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-04-22T07:44:42.337" Score="0" ViewCount="642" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've recently switched to PETG , and I'm using Cura as slicer and Ender 3 as printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm printing a model which Cura declares to be &lt;strong&gt;35 g&lt;/strong&gt;, but if I weigh the printed model it weighs &lt;strong&gt;23 g&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm printing with just 1 line of skirt, so its weight is negligible on total weight.&#xA;I've replaced the stock plastic extruder with a double gears metal extruder (3Dman 11 Dual Gear Extruder ).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/22V5v.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/22V5v.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've also replaced the stock springs with metals ones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not having a quality problem, just I want to understand if this difference is caused by a bad configuration that could be improved.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which are the corrections/checks that I need to do in my setup (both printer and Cura) for fixing this difference?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27580" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-04-22T21:25:10.370" LastActivityDate="2021-04-22T21:25:10.370" Title="Difference in weight from Cura to printed model" Tags="|creality-ender-3|ultimaker-cura|petg|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16156" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16155" CreationDate="2021-04-22T08:22:36.863" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The density of the filament can be specified in the material model of the filament in Cura (Preferences -&amp;gt; Configure Cura... -&amp;gt; Materials and click on the material/filament you are using to slice your model for PETG), look at the value behind &lt;em&gt;Density&lt;/em&gt;, the PETG filament I use is using 1.28 g/cm³ (&lt;a href=&quot;https://colorfabb.com/petg-economy-black&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;PETG Economy Black -&amp;gt; Specification &amp;gt;&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vy283.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Cura materials window&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vy283.png&quot; alt=&quot;Cura materials window&quot; title=&quot;Cura materials window&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This field is user editable, so you can change it to your needs. Cura calculates the weight based on the deposited volume.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2021-04-22T08:22:36.863" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16157" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11974" CreationDate="2021-04-22T10:21:16.390" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are you for real?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Isopropyl alcohol is less dangerous to your health than ethanol with a touch of denaturant?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Seriously read the MSDS sheets for the products and know what's in them before you say stuff.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The amount of MEK or MIBK is so small.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some and not many methylated spirits have a small fraction of methanol but so little that it is safe to work with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why would they sell methylated spirits in the supermarket and not IPA if it was more dangerous?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally, I would read the SDS/MSDS sheet for the metho if you are worried and find one that is only denatured with Bitrex but to be honest I doubt there will be a health issue any more so than IPA with any of them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28005" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-09-06T04:22:24.467" LastActivityDate="2021-09-06T04:22:24.467" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16158" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16155" CreationDate="2021-04-22T11:35:20.707" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Likely underextrusion. The Ender 3's extruder is particularly bad at PETG and slips a lot unless you go really slow, like 3 mm³/s (about 40 mm/s at 0.2 mm layers and 0.4 mm line width) or lower.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a long time I thought this was a limitation of the material, at least without a really powerful hotend, and wondered why anyone liked it. But after replacing the extruder on my Ender 3 with one that grips the filament much better (among other differences) I can extrude at several times that rate with no extrusion issues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My extruder has a lot of differences from the stock Creality one that might be making a difference. It's (remote) direct drive, has a cut-out hobbed gear that wraps partly around the filament tensioned rigidly rather than with a spring, and has net 10:1 reduction gearing. I suspect the hobbed gear configuration makes the biggest different to increased PETG printing capability but I'm not sure. Here's a picture of what I'm talking about&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NxSQx.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;hobbed filament gears&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastEditorUserId="11157" LastEditDate="2021-04-22T19:25:27.170" LastActivityDate="2021-04-22T19:25:27.170" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16159" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16154" CreationDate="2021-04-22T12:51:15.193" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It looks like a sensor issue.  Maybe a temporary resistance in a contact of the sensor circuit made the temperature look low to the controler, so it applies power to raise the temperature.  When the contection recovers, the temperature is too high, so the controller lowers the power to restore the temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15075" LastActivityDate="2021-04-22T12:51:15.193" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16160" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13692" CreationDate="2021-04-22T14:13:07.797" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you want to pause at the Octoprint command streaming level rather than at the printer level, have your slicer emit the Octoprint &lt;code&gt;@pause&lt;/code&gt; command rather than real gcode for pause. This will cause it to go into the paused state and not send any further commands until you hit resume.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2021-04-22T14:13:07.797" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16161" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13382" CreationDate="2021-04-22T18:13:08.793" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had the exact same issue and then suddenly it went away.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only thing I had changed was my Z-offset. I moved it away from the plate by roughly 0.1 mm. To confirm it was the reason I set it back closer to the plate and the problem came back. I think When the nozzle is too close to the plate the plastic cannot freely flow out and hence the pressure develops at the feeder and it skips. This worked for me, everything is stock and no changes to the feeder settings or anything else.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28013" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-04-22T21:19:02.340" LastActivityDate="2021-04-22T21:19:02.340" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16162" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13412" CreationDate="2021-04-23T00:19:09.407" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm adding this answer to somewhat challenge the findings of my original answer, and the premise of the question: PETG does not need lower print speeds, and can even be printed at higher speeds than PLA under some conditions due to reduced need for cooling. You can see this from some of the &amp;quot;#speedboatrace&amp;quot; entries printed with PETG. So what was really going on with the original claim and my agreement with it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think my original answer is still somewhat true: it's likely that it takes more hotend power to melt PETG at a rate that can be successfully extruded &lt;em&gt;and bonded&lt;/em&gt; than to do the same for PLA. But there are other factors at play in the perception that &amp;quot;PETG has to be printed slow&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;FarO did not specify details of the printer(s) in question, but I found the big limiting factor for my Ender 3 printing PETG was the stock extruder, which presumably was skipping bad to begin with, and even worse with Linear Advance, trying to keep the filament under high pressure to compensate for its compressibility. Since replacing the extruder with a direct drive one, I've had no problem printing PETG at the same speed as PLA, and both can print much faster than I ever could with the stock bowden extruder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2021-04-23T00:19:09.407" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16163" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16167" CreationDate="2021-04-23T01:59:38.850" Score="2" ViewCount="106" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was wondering the other day why don't all three motors move at the same time? Don't normal paper printers move 2 motors at a time? they're 2D printers. It makes sense if a 3D printer really does print with &lt;em&gt;all&lt;/em&gt; three motors moving. Won't it also be more efficient if they do 3D print in all axes?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21823" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-04-23T07:09:44.393" LastActivityDate="2021-04-23T07:09:44.393" Title="Is 3D printing really just 2D printing? Because only 2 motors move per layer" Tags="|3d-design|mechanics|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16165" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16163" CreationDate="2021-04-23T02:44:54.960" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Z axis moves between each layer so you are indeed printing in the 3rd dimension.  There are some techniques that move all three axis at the same time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27899" LastActivityDate="2021-04-23T02:44:54.960" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16166" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16163" CreationDate="2021-04-23T03:22:05.970" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Frame challenge: is it just 1D printing? Each G1 command moves linearly in a single one dimensional affine subspace of the build volume.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What makes 3D printing 3D is that the resulting object produced is three dimensional. There are indeed a lot of advances to be made in FDM printing by not working only within constant-Z cross sections at a time, but these are matters of surface quality/accuracy and the classes of geometry that are printable, not efficiency.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2021-04-23T03:22:05.970" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16167" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16163" CreationDate="2021-04-23T07:06:44.157" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was wondering the other day why don't all three motors move at the same time?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That is perfectly possible for most printers (with limitations, &amp;quot;3D Printing&amp;quot; with all steppers being used is called &amp;quot;non-planar&amp;quot; printing), but there are some major cons you need to deal with. First, there are not that many software suites that slice objects perfectly well like the &amp;quot;normal&amp;quot; per &amp;quot;fixed/variable layer height&amp;quot; slicing as the slicers are under developed. Second, it requires a specific tall and slender nozzle/print head, else the height of printing is very limited. Last, besides generally not being useful for rectangular prints (except for 90° overhanging structures&lt;sup&gt;1)&lt;/sup&gt;), this method is only/best suitable for curved objects as the top layer will follow the contours of the object.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It makes sense if a 3D printer really does print with all three motors moving.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No, it does not make sense, the essentials of 3D printing it that it produces a 3D object, not that all stepper motors should be running simultaneously.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Won't it also be more efficient if they do 3D print in all axes?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not necessarily, there are limitations to non-planar printing like geometry and print quality, but, you could (in some cases) print with less support material.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1)&lt;/sup&gt; : From &lt;a href=&quot;https://xyzdims.com/2021/03/03/3d-printing-90-overhangs-without-support-structure-with-non-planar-slicing-on-3-axis-printer/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Rene K. Mueller, published March 3, 2021, https://xyzdims.com&lt;/a&gt;:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eaJm0.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Non-planar slicing for printing 90° overhangs are tilted sliced&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eaJm0.png&quot; alt=&quot;Non-planar slicing for printing 90° overhangs are tilted sliced&quot; title=&quot;Non-planar slicing for printing 90° overhangs are tilted sliced&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Liiiw.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Non-planar slicing for printing 90° overhangs are conically sliced&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Liiiw.png&quot; alt=&quot;Non-planar slicing for printing 90° overhangs are conically sliced&quot; title=&quot;Non-planar slicing for printing 90° overhangs are conically sliced&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Note that these are &lt;strong&gt;demonstration&lt;/strong&gt; pieces, normally you would rotate the print for 90° and print it sliced normal (planar).&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2021-04-23T07:06:44.157" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16168" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16176" CreationDate="2021-04-23T07:34:29.187" Score="1" ViewCount="96" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am creating a bottlecap-like design. The design is sealed by rotating the lid. I am adding a chemical to it for an experiment. I would like the inside of the design to have no air circulating to it through the lid tiny spaces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My design:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2Xc1Q.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2Xc1Q.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any simple solutions I can implement out there? Design-wise, material-wise, or maybe an extra piece?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25029" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-04-23T14:10:07.837" LastActivityDate="2021-04-25T05:57:44.590" Title="How to create an air-free design?" Tags="|3d-design|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16171" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16175" CreationDate="2021-04-23T11:28:07.917" Score="1" ViewCount="613" Body="&lt;p&gt;We're thinking of buying a PETG-powered printer. When researching printers available on the market, there are machines with a 100 microns. I was wondering if there are machines with a 50 microns or close to 50 micros? Otherwise, why not?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23759" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-04-23T14:09:53.353" LastActivityDate="2021-04-23T14:09:53.353" Title="Printer with 50 microns or close to 50 micron (z resolution)" Tags="|desktop-printer|resolution|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16172" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-04-23T11:53:02.803" Score="1" ViewCount="1646" Body="&lt;p&gt;Every time I start a print, midway during printing, my printer starts to under extrude.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried lots of different models every time the problem occurs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What should I do about this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27743" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-04-23T12:21:48.973" LastActivityDate="2021-05-26T15:33:56.890" Title="Ender 3 V2 under extrusion problems" Tags="|creality-ender-3|underextrusion|bowden|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16173" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16171" CreationDate="2021-04-23T11:56:08.903" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I assume you mean a resolution of 50 microns (0.05 mm step size)&#xA;Most FDM printers can produce something useful upto 100 microns. If you want to print with more precision, try resin printers.&#xA;The reason for this is that an FDM printer uses an extruder with a specific nozzle diameter (typically around 0.4mm and minimum around 0.25 mm). plastic has too much viscosity to fit through a smaller diameter nozzle easy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4708" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-04-23T12:19:08.627" LastActivityDate="2021-04-23T12:19:08.627" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16174" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16172" CreationDate="2021-04-23T12:58:10.713" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If everything is stock on the machine and all other setting are properly configured, this is most likely &lt;a href=&quot;https://all3dp.com/2/3d-printer-heat-creep/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;heat creep&lt;/a&gt;.  This is caused when the PFTE tubing is not properly set within the hot end itself leaving a small gap.  As filament is fed into the hot end and heated to melting, some filament oozes out in the gap between the PFTE tubing and the nozzle. This melted filament then cools and hardens making it harder to extrude filament causing under extrusion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may want to calibrate your E-steps and flow as well, &lt;a href=&quot;https://teachingtechyt.github.io/calibration.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here is an excellent website&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27840" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-04-23T14:09:04.120" LastActivityDate="2021-04-23T14:09:04.120" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16175" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16171" CreationDate="2021-04-23T13:33:09.263" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;PETG is a material type that is &lt;strong&gt;only&lt;/strong&gt; available for Fused Deposition Modeling (FDM) type printers. Those are limited in their achievable resolution by their nozzle size:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the Smallest depression in a surface that is printable is about half a line width in XY and 1 layer height in Z.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the smallest bulge from a flat surface that can reliably be produced by FDM is in the area of one line width in XY and 1 layer height in Z.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The minimum thickness of an item to be printable is one line width.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The maximum layer height in Z is 3/4 of the nozzle width.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Optimal line width is 1.1 Nozzle diameters.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;That all is the &lt;em&gt;theoretical&lt;/em&gt; limit, as machine movements and such push this minimum up by a factor of at least 1.5 and more likely 2-3, depending on how much your machine is tuned.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The smallest available nozzles that doesn't require specialty extruders are 0.2 mm. That means the absolute minimum detail that could in theory be reproduced on a surface of enough thickness is a 0.1 mm depression using a design similar to this picture:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/plsAg.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/plsAg.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a result: &lt;strong&gt;NO&lt;/strong&gt; FDM with PETG is not a solution to your requirements, you want reliable 0.05 mm resolution in XYZ, which is the area of Resin printers, especially DLP and SLA, but also Stratasys PolyJet can achieve this at the moment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Estimating from your &lt;em&gt;other&lt;/em&gt; questions (like &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/16115/petg-and-clear-aligner&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt;), I &lt;strong&gt;still&lt;/strong&gt; suggest looking at a resin-based system that has materials that are certified for medical use!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2021-04-23T13:40:43.787" LastActivityDate="2021-04-23T13:40:43.787" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16176" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16168" CreationDate="2021-04-23T16:47:00.527" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any simple solutions I can implement out there?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A gasket made of rubber or other elastic or deformable material is probably the best option. Printing one or both of the parts using a deformable material like TPU might also work. Finally, if you don't need to open the unit during the experiment, you could use a sealant like silicone caulk might make sense.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1690" LastActivityDate="2021-04-23T16:47:00.527" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16177" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15873" CreationDate="2021-04-24T07:52:41.823" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You do not need to replace the heated bed. However, you should replace the damaged fork connector. What happened here is that the connector did not make a proper connection with the terminal block (perhaps due to the screw working itself loose) and heated up. There is no reason to suspect anything else is damaged, but the connector itself is clearly damaged. If you do not replace the connector, it may again make a poor connection and heat up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Replacing the entire Einsy board is not strictly necessary. The only damaged component is the terminal block. You should consider soldering the wires from the heated bed directly to the Einsy, bypassing the terminals entirely. This is arguably a better solution since a soldered connection is more reliable than one using a terminal block. You can simply solder the wires on the back of the board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastActivityDate="2021-04-24T07:52:41.823" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16178" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14004" CreationDate="2021-04-24T14:09:48.587" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Do you have any “slop” on the right side (non motor) of the gantry?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I’ve noticed that my gantry will settle on the right side and lag behind the motor driven - ever so slightly - when it starts to drive up. It will, after that first lag, move fine for the rest of the time. Z axis travel seems barely affected but all my prints are consistently about 0.5 mm short.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28035" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2021-08-09T18:18:11.560" LastActivityDate="2021-08-09T18:18:11.560" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16179" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-04-24T19:25:38.890" Score="1" ViewCount="106" Body="&lt;p&gt;I need new ceramic tape for my 3D printer. Does it matter which I get? Can I just get the cheapest? Is there a quality difference?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28039" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-04-24T19:56:29.340" LastActivityDate="2021-05-31T08:14:49.583" Title="Replacing ceramic tape on Wanhao Duplicator i3" Tags="|extruder|monoprice-maker-select|wanhao|duplicator-i3-plus|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16180" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16181" CreationDate="2021-04-24T23:16:45.253" Score="1" ViewCount="409" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does anybody if the Anycube Mega X comes with a nozzle for 1.75 mm filaments or is it 2.85 mm?&#xA;I saw online that it works with 1.75 mm filaments but the Cura settings given by the manufacturer had 2.85 mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I should mention that using a 1.75 mm filament works BUT my designs have clear under-extrusion, which is very likely caused by having 2.85 mm in the settings. So at this moment, I am trying to gauge whether to change the settings to 1.75 mm or buying 2.85 mm filaments (this only works if the Mega X comes with the appropriate nozzle).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28041" LastActivityDate="2021-04-26T05:15:24.017" Title="Adequate default filament diameter for Anycubic Mega X" Tags="|filament|nozzle|filament-choice|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16181" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16180" CreationDate="2021-04-24T23:48:12.510" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Reading all 49 pages of the manual was fruitless. I'm astonished that there is no reference to the filament diameter used in this printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.3djake.com/anycubic-3d-printer-and-accessories/mega-x&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;3dJake's web site&lt;/a&gt; comes a confirmation that the printer uses 1.75 mm filament.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's not a matter of changing a nozzle to use 2.85 mm filament, as the entire filament path is based, in this printer, on the 1.75 mm specification.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To find 3Djake's site, I used &amp;quot;anycubic mega x filament diameter&amp;quot; as the search terms. Many other links appeared, confirming the 1.75 mm filament size.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastActivityDate="2021-04-24T23:48:12.510" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16182" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16180" CreationDate="2021-04-25T02:04:58.247" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a well-known problem with Cura. The filament diameter is set to 2.85 mm by default (probably because Ultimaker printers use 2.85 mm filament). This will cause extreme under-extrusion if your printer uses 1.75 mm filament. Simply change the filament diameter to 1.75 mm in Cura's printer definition, and everything should be fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Older versions of Cura would reset the filament diameter to 2.85 mm if you installed an update or new release, but I think the Ultimaker have fixed that annoying little bug.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3953" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-04-26T05:15:24.017" LastActivityDate="2021-04-26T05:15:24.017" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16183" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16204" CreationDate="2021-04-25T02:05:56.067" Score="1" ViewCount="420" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a few hits on my issue title but could not find an actual answer/advice.&#xA;I burned my Ender 3 Pro Creality motherboard and replaced it with an SKR 1.4 + TMC 2209 + BLTouch.&#xA;Everything is moving like it should and calibrated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, at the end of the homing process, the Z-axis goes up, then it's supposed to move to the printing position.&#xA;At that point, the acceleration is so great that the Z-axis barely goes down and I end up printing about 4 cm above the bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These are the settings I changed on my Marlin 2.0.7 firmware in relation to the Ender 3 setup:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Configuration.h&#xA;set #define STRING_CONFIG_H_AUTHOR &amp;quot;Nicolas Rietsch v 0.1.2&amp;quot;&#xA;enable #define CUSTOM_MACHINE_NAME&#xA;set #define CUSTOM_MACHINE_NAME &amp;quot;Ender-3 PRO&amp;quot;&#xA;set #define TEMP_SENSOR_BED 1&#xA;set #define DEFAULT_MAX_FEEDRATE          { 500, 500, 5, 45 }&#xA;set #define DEFAULT_MAX_ACCELERATION      { 450, 450, 100, 10000 }&#xA;set #default DEFAULT_ACCELERATION          450&#xA;set #define DEFAULT_TRAVEL_ACCELERATION   500 &#xA;&#xA;set #define INVERT_X_DIR true&#xA;set #define INVERT_E0_DIR true&#xA;set #define X_MIN_POS -26&#xA;set #define X_BED_SIZE 230&#xA;set #define Y_BED_SIZE 230&#xA;set #define Z_MAX_POS 250&#xA;enable #define NOZZLE_PARK_FEATURE&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Configuration_adv.h&#xA;set #define X_CURRENT       500&#xA;set #define Y_CURRENT       500&#xA;set #define Z_CURRENT       500&#xA;set #define E0_CURRENT      650&#xA;set #define CHOPPER_TIMING CHOPPER_DEFAULT_24V&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What am I missing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28043" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-04-25T06:04:53.173" LastActivityDate="2021-04-27T20:32:54.423" Title="First move after homing way too fast" Tags="|marlin|creality-ender-3|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16186" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16141" CreationDate="2021-04-25T07:36:31.880" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I like the idea of printing a holder, for the part-it holds the part laterally and indexes the new printing. I would maybe model it and slice it separately. Then model and slice the text as a first layer thing. It is important the slicer doesn’t think the text is floating in the air, or it will interpret it as a bridge, and do weird stuff.  Don’t use skirt or brim on text slicing. I’m thinking print the holder, keep the bed warm. Raise the extruder up out of the way. Get the plastic piece warm on the heated bed. Put glue stick on the part and stick it to the bed in the holder.&#xA;With the extruder cold, slowly bring the extruder down until it is the right height to print, could use a sheet of paper between the part and the nozzle as a feeler gauge. Now the Z is at the right height. Bring up the text G-code. At the beginning of the G-code, edit the homing command, &lt;code&gt;G28&lt;/code&gt;, to be &lt;code&gt;G28 X Y&lt;/code&gt;, no Z, so it won’t home the Z-axis. Also, delete or comment out &lt;code&gt;G29&lt;/code&gt; auto-leveling if present. Then type in a line &lt;code&gt;G92 Z.1&lt;/code&gt;, this spoofs the position of the Z-axis so the printer thinks it’s at zero plus the thickness of your sheet of paper (.1 mm). Add in a move to prime the nozzle, after it is heated &lt;code&gt;M109&lt;/code&gt;, right before it starts moving. &lt;code&gt;G1 E10 F400&lt;/code&gt;. Then &lt;code&gt;G92 E0&lt;/code&gt;, then a retract move &lt;code&gt;G1 E-2 F3900&lt;/code&gt;.  This is right before it starts moving, with a long series of &lt;code&gt;G1&lt;/code&gt; commands. Note, ignore the prime, retract thing if your G-code already includes it. That should be good to print.&#xA;Dial down the speed and be ready to catch the plastic squirt from the prime move with some tweezers, you could even hold something flat and metal under the nozzle as it primes to simulate having a surface to build up pressure. Immediately after the prime, be ready to micro-step the Z-axis to dial in your first layer as it starts printing on your part. Turn up the speed if everything is going to plan.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could pull the filament out of the extruder and do a dry run if you’re worried about the part. Or print a couple in case the first one gets messed up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27077" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-04-25T14:30:11.220" LastActivityDate="2021-04-25T14:30:11.220" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16189" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-04-25T17:30:01.323" Score="0" ViewCount="295" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to print the following model:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/b8cSN.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/b8cSN.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;View 1&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HGgi3.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HGgi3.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;View 2&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm using &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.simplify3d.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Simplify3d&lt;/a&gt; to print the model with the following settings on my &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.qd3dprinter.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Qidi X-pro&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Filament is ABS&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bed temp is 100 °C&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Extruder temp is 230 °C&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 top layer&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 bottom layer&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;4 perimeter shells&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The outside direction is 'outside in'.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Internal infill is triangular at 60 %.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've tried numerous tweaks to the settings, but, I can't seem to get a perfect perpendicular exterior wall as seen in the photos. The print more resembles a trapezoid. It appears like the walls are bowing inward. This also seems to throw off the dimensions. They aren't consistent. For example, the height of the part is 6 mm, but, in measuring with a caliper it shows 5.8 mm to 6.2 mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can anyone tell me how I can get my external walls perpendicular?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23798" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-04-25T21:15:59.523" LastActivityDate="2021-04-28T14:44:06.210" Title="Trouble printing perpendicular walls" Tags="|troubleshooting|simplify3d|qidi-x-pro|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16190" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16189" CreationDate="2021-04-25T18:55:18.023" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You may be getting shrinking due to cooling on the non-top and non-bottom layers. Sixty percent infill is rather substantial. I'm printing 20 hour pieces in ABS at 100 °C / 250 °C using ten percent infill and getting nothing like what your image shows.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can you do with a lower infill? More isn't always stronger. Four perimeter shells may be a factor but you'll probably see a difference with a smaller percentage infill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastActivityDate="2021-04-25T18:55:18.023" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16192" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16071" CreationDate="2021-04-26T04:02:52.697" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm having the exact same issue, SKR1.4 Turbo with 2209's on i3 clone and it started when I tried to enable &lt;code&gt;G34&lt;/code&gt; auto-alignment. I very briefly had it fixed by disabling the auto-alignment and I wish I knew how because now I can't even fix it with a fresh download of Marlin and no &lt;code&gt;G34&lt;/code&gt; to begin with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I took the gantry off and watched the motors turning because at first I thought they were trying to move opposite directions but in fact, they were just turning at different speeds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Right now I have tried enabling all max end-stop pins as well as only min pins (using only the probe as Z end-stop) so far to no avail.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The good news for you is I think I see your problem.  E1 stepper should be commented out, Z2 is the one you want.  Let me know how/if it works.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28061" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-04-26T21:26:27.597" LastActivityDate="2021-04-26T21:26:27.597" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16193" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10369" CreationDate="2021-04-26T11:40:26.493" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In step based motion control, the time between two steps is calculated directly from velocity. If that time is not constant then you are accelerating or decelerating based on a specified acceleration. The next time between steps is calculated from the current velocity based on the desired acceleration. However when moving 2 or 3 axes at once, this can result in very poor and slow performance when moving through complex curves composed of many small moves, because by the math one axis always needs to slow down too much if no jerk is involved. When doing motion calculations for step based systems, actual jerk m/s³ directly translates into how much velocity 'error' is acceptable in calculation of the next velocity (m/s) to allow turning lo angle corners more quickly, but without missing steps or stalling motors. This velocity error comes directly from the actual jerk between two steps and it does have physical meaning, (and the proper units). Also, low power microprocessors can do the math fast enough, which is not the case if square and cube roots get involved.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28067" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-04-26T11:49:50.393" LastActivityDate="2021-04-26T11:49:50.393" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16194" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16068" CreationDate="2021-04-26T14:20:13.427" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As the Anycubic Chiron has an automated bed leveling, you can just calibrate that differences in height in the printer's firmware. &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RudXmCgobso&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Here&lt;/a&gt; is the official tutorial made by Anycubic :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28069" LastEditorUserId="28069" LastEditDate="2021-04-27T06:38:03.927" LastActivityDate="2021-04-27T06:38:03.927" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16195" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16202" CreationDate="2021-04-26T14:33:23.217" Score="1" ViewCount="661" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm having some problems with my BLTouch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0gDMAm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0gDMAm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yesterday I got the 4.2.7 silent board delivered as well as the BLTouch and a glass bed. I was able to install the silent board without a problem and according to the many, many diagrams I've looked at, I also have my BLTouch installed correctly. I've installed several different firmware versions as well as manually compiling some.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;I used the following diagram which was provided in a link by the &lt;a href=&quot;https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1ZjVvaoADTIBsFHpvmfGUWR-nJY6VQirg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;seller&lt;/a&gt;. I also tried the firmware for Ender 3 pro 4.2.7 board on the Creality website as well as a few other firmware versions from various YouTube videos.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/H1gpk.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/H1gpk.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I start up my printer the BLTouch does its normal startup thing and my printer says it's ready. But when I try to auto home, bed level, or even manually control the BLTouch it doesn't extend at all. I've spent about 4 hours trying to figure it out on my own and I'm throwing in the towel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28072" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-04-29T11:41:02.227" LastActivityDate="2021-04-29T11:41:02.227" Title="Problem with BLTouch on Ender 3 Pro" Tags="|creality-ender-3|firmware|bltouch|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16196" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-04-26T14:57:17.460" Score="1" ViewCount="687" Body="&lt;p&gt;Every now and then I'll have a problem with layer shift. Solving this is a separate issue, but it occurred to me: most of the time when this happens I notice right away because of the noise. What if there were an easy to to pause the print, re-home the X/Y axis (not Z), and then resume. I'd only have one layer that was a bit off. Sometimes that's enough to ruin the print but sometimes I could clean up with a razor knife later and just live with the small scarring and weakness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a way to do this during a print? I suspect it might require support within the printer (or print tool like OctoPrint), and might also depend on how the print is sliced in terms of knowing absolute vs relative coordinates at any given moment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12562" LastActivityDate="2022-09-21T14:53:22.117" Title="Pause, rehome X/Y, resume" Tags="|print-quality|homing|layer-shifting|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16197" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16196" CreationDate="2021-04-26T15:06:44.277" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Have you tried this? It should just work, at least if you're using software like Octoprint to control the printer over serial interface rather than print-from-SD-card on the printer itself. In such a setup you're free to submit whatever commands (in particular, &lt;code&gt;G28 X Y&lt;/code&gt;) you like while the print is paused. You'll need it setup to save and restore position across pause/resume, or the next command executed might start from the wrong starting position; this would be no problem if it's a travel command, but if it's an extrusion move it would make a mess.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're using the printer's builtin pause/resume functionality, I'm not sure whether it will work. It mainly depends on whether it &lt;em&gt;lets you&lt;/em&gt; access the homing function while paused. If not this is more of a logic limitation than any fundamental incapability, and could be fixed in the firmware.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2021-04-26T15:06:44.277" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16199" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14874" CreationDate="2021-04-26T19:41:41.280" Score="3" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can 3D printing be used for this task to make the repair any easier or more successful to complete than simply cutting a piece of plastic and (again, somehow) affixing it to the shelf?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Yes.&lt;/strong&gt; 3D printed parts can be plenty strong enough to handle the kind of load you're considering. You'll need to create a 3D model of the part you want it a CAD program, which is something that takes some practice if you don't already know how to do it, so it may or may not be easier &lt;em&gt;for you&lt;/em&gt; than milling the from a plastic blank.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One advantage that 3D printing brings with it is the ability to iterate rapidly on your design: you can model and print the part that you think will work, try it out, adjust your model to incorporate what you learn from the first try, and print new versions until you get it just right. If the existing shelf is broken in some irregular way, for example, you can design a new part that mates tightly with the broken edge of the part you have.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rail was part of a large plastic shelf, which is no longer available for purchase.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Perhaps you've already looked, but there are a great many parts suppliers online. If you have the part number, be sure to look beyond just what the manufacturer can supply -- it's very likely that someone out there has the part you need.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1690" LastActivityDate="2021-04-26T19:41:41.280" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16200" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-04-26T21:06:35.867" Score="3" ViewCount="155" Body="&lt;p&gt;Last week I set up my Ender 3 V2 and it seemed to work perfectly out of the box. I leveled the bed, did a test print, and discovered that the nozzle was too low (successful print but elephant foot). Re-leveled at a slightly higher height (lower bed level) and was able to produce a very lovely benchy and dog.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then I turned it off and let it sit a week until I had something to actually print. Now the first layer fails almost immediately. It will put down a line and when the nozzle comes back around it will knock it around producing a spaghetti monster. I've tried re-leveling, cleaning the bed with rubbing alcohol, using previous G-code that worked fine last week, positioning models in different spots on the bed when slicing, but no matter what I do, nothing seems to stick.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've cleaned the bed as well. It is quite dusty here so it definitely needed that, but it doesn't seem to have fixed the issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28080" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-04-27T05:58:39.607" LastActivityDate="2021-06-04T01:08:45.740" Title="After sitting for a week first layer won't adhere" Tags="|creality-ender-3|adhesion|build-plate|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16201" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15629" CreationDate="2021-04-26T23:02:33.703" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Things to consider (This is expanded from &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/13328/how-is-heat-creep-characterized&quot;&gt;How is heat creep characterized?&lt;/a&gt;):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The air volume of the cooling fan on the hotend heat sink affects the temperature gradient across the heat sink.  Usually the size/geometry of the fan depends on the printer design, so the main parameter of a fan that controls air volume is the rpm.  I've noticed fans fitting hotends from 6,000 to 10,000 rpm.  The higher rpm the better as far as preventing heat creep.  Of course, make sure the fan is spinning properly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The raising the temperature of the extruder increases the chance of heat creep.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A high resistive connection to the sensor will cause a lower that actual temperature reading.  Thus, the controller will raise the hotend to a higher temperature than set, which can cause het creep.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol start=&quot;3&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Razing the temperature of the heated bed, especially when the printer is in an enclosure, increases the chance of heat creep because this raises the temperature of the air the fan blows across the heatsink.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What can be useful is using higher extrusion and bed temperatures for the first layer, then set lower temperatures on subsequent layers  to reduce the chances of heat creep.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol start=&quot;4&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The slower the print speed the higher the chance of heat creep.  That's because a slower print speed gives the filament more time to heat up in the extruder.  Many slicers have a setting that slows down the print speed if a layer will finish below a given time.  If this slowed down time causes heat creep, the extrusion will stop when the printer reaches these smaller area layers.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Too much travel of the extruder without extruding has a similar effect because the filament isn't moving.  I verified that connecting isolated structures on a design with heat creep can eliminate it.  Using a little more material for thin walls is better than scraping prints.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Example:&lt;/strong&gt; This is easy to demonstrate with PETG.  Design a table printed top down 100 mm square with four legs 5 mm square and 100 mm long.  Set the parameters so that you start to get heat creep when printing the legs.  Now put four 1 mm thick walls between the legs to get the heat creep to go away.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sometimes if you start a second print without letting the extruder cool down from the first print, heat creep will cause the extruder to jam.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol start=&quot;5&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The heater block might be too close to the heatsink so that they bypass the heat breaks reduction in conducting heat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Hotends for temperatures 245 °C and below can use such things as Teflon tubing in the heat break to isolate the filament from the metal.  But, +250 °C nozzle temperatures need all metal hotends.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The PID settings in the firmware might be letting the hotend temperature overshoot too high.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15075" LastEditorUserId="15075" LastEditDate="2021-04-30T14:12:19.070" LastActivityDate="2021-04-30T14:12:19.070" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16202" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16195" CreationDate="2021-04-27T03:12:43.037" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;For anyone who has this problem in the future my solution was to loosen the screw on top of the touch just a little bit&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28072" LastActivityDate="2021-04-27T03:12:43.037" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16203" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16189" CreationDate="2021-04-27T13:21:47.260" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If your object doesn't need to be flexible and can tolerate a more brittle material, PLA has better dimensional accuracy.  Thus, it would be easier to get your desired shape.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Try two perimeter shells, but slow down the print speed of the perimeter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15075" LastEditorUserId="15075" LastEditDate="2021-04-27T18:15:17.240" LastActivityDate="2021-04-27T18:15:17.240" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16204" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16183" CreationDate="2021-04-27T20:32:54.423" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Maybe it would it help if you fix &lt;code&gt;#default&lt;/code&gt; to &lt;code&gt;#define&lt;/code&gt; in the current line:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;set #default DEFAULT_ACCELERATION ...&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26170" LastActivityDate="2021-04-27T20:32:54.423" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16205" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="65" CreationDate="2021-04-27T21:34:18.540" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been favoring brims recently; I am tired of the rafts becoming an integral part of my print, impossible to remove.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10900" LastActivityDate="2021-04-27T21:34:18.540" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16206" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14900" CreationDate="2021-04-28T00:14:16.143" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;code&gt;openscad -D&lt;/code&gt; option can actually include arbitrary code, not just variable definitions, so you can include a call to the module.   You can even use &lt;code&gt;/dev/null&lt;/code&gt; on Linux or NUL on Windows as the input file and have 100 % of your code in &lt;code&gt;-D&lt;/code&gt; statements.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19697" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-04-28T04:49:50.300" LastActivityDate="2021-04-28T04:49:50.300" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16208" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16189" CreationDate="2021-04-28T12:52:51.153" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;ABS shrinks about 1.5% as it cools from print temp to room temp. If your setup doesn't automatically account for this, you can scale up your STL 1.5% before slicing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also recommend more top layers - I usually use 4 for 50% infill or greater, and 6 or 8 for lower infill percentages.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4922" LastActivityDate="2021-04-28T12:52:51.153" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16209" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16189" CreationDate="2021-04-28T14:44:06.210" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Already mentioned in an &lt;a href=&quot;/a/16208/&quot;&gt;answer&lt;/a&gt; is that ABS has a relatively large percentage of shrinkage (&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/warping/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;about 1.5 %&lt;/a&gt;), this should be encountered for in your model. So, the top layers width being smaller than the model is perfectly explained by the shrinkage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is also this shrinkage that causes the excess width layers at the bottom in combination with the heated bed temperature. The bed is of relative high temperature, this is close to the glass temperature of the filament, this ensures that the plastic is soft and adheres well to the build plate. But, this high temperature also causes that the material doesn't shrink much (the cooler, the higher the shrinkgae), the further away from the bed the lower the temperature the higher the shrinkage. This causes each layer to be a little smaller than the previous layer. As the part progresses layers are build upon layers fixating the layers, so the material at the lower layers will not shrink back when the whole part is cooled down (it will probably cause for some compression stress in the lower region).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This defect is known as &amp;quot;elephant foot&amp;quot; as e.g. explained in &lt;a href=&quot;/a/5867&quot;&gt;this answer&lt;/a&gt;. Basically the bed temperature is too high (but the downside is that ABS needs a high temperature to prevent warping and loosening from the build plate), too less cooling (also not something you want when printing ABS as cooling causes warping and prevents layers to stick well to each other) or a too low distance between the nozzle and the build plate. You could try lowering heated bed temperature by 5 °C each print, print with a raft and increasing the nozzle to build plate distance (leveling with a thicker piece of paper or increase the nozzle by redefinition of the &lt;code&gt;Z=0&lt;/code&gt; plane).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a common issue for high shrinkage, high temperature materials. It is something to live with, try to balance out the problem or adjust the print object by changing the design to include a chamfer at the bottom of the print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2021-04-28T14:44:06.210" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16210" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-04-28T16:18:48.587" Score="1" ViewCount="8283" Body="&lt;p&gt;My Ender 5 Plus (original) does not perform leveling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After the self-leveling command, the Z axis only descends.&#xA;I have already exchanged the BLTouch three times, and the problem remains unchanged.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I bought my E5P in December, in America, to bring it to Brazil, I had to completely dismantle it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Machine reassembled, I start work again, everything works very well.&#xA;But, one day, I made the mistake of stopping an impression (due to problems with the appearance of the piece) and, before removing the piece from the bed, I pressed the HOME command, which caused the hotend/BLTouch to rest on the printed part, forcing the whole mechanism.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Well, I changed the BLTouch and the problems really started.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;When I send the leveling command, the Z-axis behaves erratically, going down instead of returning to the beginning and, with each command, it goes down more and more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I changed the leveler again, the problem persisted, I disassembled piece by piece, wiped a general cleaning, applied a clean solution to contacts all over the electronics, reassembled, reinstalled the firmware (Version 1.71.0 KF), and everything went back to work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yesterday, I sent a piece for printing (PLA nozzle 1.00 mm, layer 0.36 mm, speed 100 mm/s, infill 40 %), and left for my morning walk. When I returned, there was a huge ball of melted material, adhered to the hotend, again more problems. I disassembled the entire hotend, carried out the total cleaning, reassembled it, and let's go back to work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Leveling OK, there was a problem with the thermistor and the heating of the nozzle, I changed the thermistor and the heater cartridge (taking the opportunity, since several times the system had heating problems, when the temperature should be above 230 °C / 446 °F). Everything ready, come on...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Leveling problem has returned.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;BLTouch exchange done, nothing done&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Loading the firmware again, nothing done&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Review of connections, nothing done&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Z-axis continues to descend, not responding to commands, and in the Pronterface the message appears:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Error: STOP called because of BLTouch error - restart with M999&#xA;Error: STOP called because of BLTouch error - restart with M999&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've already exchanged BLTouch 2 times and it didn't work out.&#xA;I have 2 inductive levelers here, maybe the solution is to install them and forget the BLTouch, or do the leveling manually.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Has anyone had this kind of problem with the printer? If so, what is the solution?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;removing the leveler and performing manual leveling, has anyone tried this? What changes in Marlin need to be made?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Does the replacement of the BLTouch by an inductive sensor imply in what firmware changes? Is there a tutorial about it?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I appreciate any help you can get from friends&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28103" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2021-04-29T16:32:08.270" LastActivityDate="2022-02-23T05:41:56.210" Title="Ender 5 Plus - does not level, the Z axis goes down, always" Tags="|creality-ender-5|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16211" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7606" CreationDate="2021-04-28T17:18:27.757" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Option &lt;code&gt;Spiralize&lt;/code&gt; makes your model one layer thick on outer edges.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I do for a vase is set the top layer count to zero.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28106" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2022-07-04T20:52:48.350" LastActivityDate="2022-07-04T20:52:48.350" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16212" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10839" CreationDate="2021-04-28T17:43:11.073" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had the same issue exporting from Sketchup to STL. I imported my STL to Tinkercad and then exported it again and it resolved my issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tinkercad is a free and online tool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28106" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-04-28T18:17:43.893" LastActivityDate="2021-04-28T18:17:43.893" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16213" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-04-28T21:04:21.980" Score="1" ViewCount="1388" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got a heavily modified CR-10s Pro, and I'm compiling my firmware. I have my own x-carriage with the probe changed to the right of the nozzle. The bed size is 300x300. Oddly, when I do a G28 the printer homes to (177, 0). I can't understand where it's getting the number 177 from.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In Configuration.h I have:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;// The size of the print bed&#xA;#define X_BED_SIZE 300&#xA;#define Y_BED_SIZE 300&#xA;&#xA;// Travel limits (mm) after homing, corresponding to endstop positions.&#xA;#define X_MIN_POS 0&#xA;#define Y_MIN_POS 0&#xA;#define Z_MIN_POS 0&#xA;#define X_MAX_POS 310&#xA;#define Y_MAX_POS 315&#xA;#define Z_MAX_POS 395&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#define Z_SAFE_HOMING&#xA;&#xA;#if ENABLED(Z_SAFE_HOMING)   &#xA;    #define Z_SAFE_HOMING_X_POINT X_CENTER  // X point for Z homing   &#xA;    #define Z_SAFE_HOMING_Y_POINT Y_CENTER  // Y point for Z homing&#xA;#endif&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28108" LastActivityDate="2023-04-05T17:08:26.037" Title="G28 is not homing to center of bed" Tags="|marlin|firmware|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16217" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10236" CreationDate="2021-04-29T15:26:28.403" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You may want to look up &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dp.rocks/lithophane/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://3dp.rocks/lithophane/&lt;/a&gt; it lets you do things like that&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27677" LastActivityDate="2021-04-29T15:26:28.403" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16218" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15887" CreationDate="2021-04-29T17:13:47.447" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Assuming you are using PLA filament, it is plant-based and very safe. The reason some 3D printers have enclosures is becasue it helps keep some materials warm, its not for safety and especially not for fumes. You could run the thing in your bedroom 24/7 and I guarantee you would be plenty safe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28117" LastActivityDate="2021-04-29T17:13:47.447" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16219" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15887" CreationDate="2021-04-30T02:54:27.777" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Technically, you should never leave your printer running unattended. Printer fires are rare, but it can happen, especially with cheap printers with poor quality control. Personally, I would just make sure that there is a fire alarm near by, so you'd be alerted if there was a fire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, the fumes concern is valid in the sense that you don't want to sleep in the same room as your 3D printer. The following article points out that if you are spending time in the same room without proper ventilation you'd benefit from potentially using an enclosure with a HEPA filter. Also, the article points out that using PLA may be a safer choice than other materials such as ABS or Polycarbonate when it comes to harmful particles: &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dinsider.com/3d-printer-fumes/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://3dinsider.com/3d-printer-fumes/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28119" LastEditorUserId="28119" LastEditDate="2021-05-06T21:24:54.733" LastActivityDate="2021-05-06T21:24:54.733" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16220" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16179" CreationDate="2021-04-30T07:34:09.583" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Wanhao Duplicator i3 too. It does not matter a lot which ceramic wadding and / or kapton  you use. The more you seal off, the better it works. If you have a full metal hotend and a powerful cooling blower and need temps above 250 °C, you might want to do the best you can with a good padding of ceramic and kapton. For normal operation, a half-done job will do just fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See this question too: &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/1247/efficient-and-easy-way-to-thermally-insulate-the-heat-block-of-the-hotend&quot;&gt;Efficient and easy way to thermally insulate the heat block of the hotend?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4708" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-05-31T08:14:49.583" LastActivityDate="2021-05-31T08:14:49.583" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16221" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15887" CreationDate="2021-04-30T08:38:35.170" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Check where the moving cables (especially for the heaters) are bending. The bending radiuses should be as wide as possible and connections or soldering points should never see any direct force from movement. Add a strain reliev if there are any such connenctions to prevent them from failing over time and possibly melting down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28122" LastActivityDate="2021-04-30T08:38:35.170" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16222" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16114" CreationDate="2021-04-30T14:31:04.603" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This was likely due to reaching the limitations (maybe minimum step rate) of the stepper drivers which were 4988 drivers. I updated them to 8825 drivers which were able to support a speed of &lt;code&gt;F20&lt;/code&gt; correctly. I have not yet tried them at lower speeds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27921" LastActivityDate="2021-04-30T14:31:04.603" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16223" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-04-30T18:05:29.097" Score="1" ViewCount="138" Body="&lt;p&gt;Any hints or suggestions (filament type? suggested settings? model sources?) for 3D printing minis to use in Dungeons &amp;amp; Dragons?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've done a couple where the support structures were difficult to break off without breaking off a hand or something.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a Lulzbot Mini (1), single-extruder if that makes any difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26258" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-04-30T22:22:21.197" LastActivityDate="2021-06-01T13:35:14.767" Title="3D Print D&amp;D Miniatures delicate supports" Tags="|support-structures|filament-choice|quality|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16224" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16137" CreationDate="2021-04-30T23:22:11.530" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The problem turned out to be mechanical.  The arm that I mounted the camera on had developed a crack where it connects to the build platform.  I used some superglue to repair the crack and the camera shaking went away.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The lesson here is to check EVERYTHING mechanical before trying to blame shaking on the firmware.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1349" LastActivityDate="2021-04-30T23:22:11.530" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16225" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12188" CreationDate="2021-05-01T08:29:44.410" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is a little annoying, what &lt;code&gt;Cura&lt;/code&gt; is doing for me is forcing to wait. On start G-code I have:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;; Ender 3 Custom Start G-code&#xA;G92 E0 ; Reset Extruder&#xA;;*** Start Dual Nozzle/Bed Preheating ***&#xA;M140 S60 ; start preheating the bed&#xA;M104 S200 T0 ; start preheating hotend&#xA;G28 ; home&#xA;M190 S60 ; heat to Cura Bed setting &#xA;M109 S200&#xA;;*** End Preheating ***M420 S1; Load Mesh Bed Level&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But on the generated G-code I have:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;;Generated with Cura_SteamEngine 4.9.0&#xA;M140 S60&#xA;M105&#xA;M190 S60&#xA;M104 S200&#xA;M105&#xA;M109 S200&#xA;M82 ;absolute extrusion mode&#xA;; Ender 3 Custom Start G-code&#xA;G92 E0 ; Reset Extruder&#xA;;*** Start Dual Nozzle/Bed Preheating ***&#xA;M140 S60 ; start preheating the bed&#xA;M104 S200 T0 ; start preheating hotend&#xA;G28 ; home&#xA;M190 S60 ; heat to Cura Bed setting &#xA;M109 S200&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the end I'm changing it directly on G-code what is a pain&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28129" LastActivityDate="2021-05-01T08:29:44.410" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16227" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-05-01T20:21:48.490" Score="6" ViewCount="1603" Body="&lt;p&gt;All of my completed prints come out with rough edges. What are some methods for removing rough edges from 3D prints? Also, are there any ways to reduce rough edges on prints? For reference, I use a FlashForge Adventurer 3 and PLA filament.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27385" LastActivityDate="2021-05-19T19:20:39.800" Title="How do you remove rough edges from completed prints?" Tags="|print-quality|post-processing|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16228" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16223" CreationDate="2021-05-01T20:57:17.260" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Buckle up, this is going to be rough:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;FDM printers are not the best choice for printing figurines in the 25 to 40 mm scale that is typical for wargaming and D&amp;amp;D games. Resolution-wise, that's the area of &lt;em&gt;resin&lt;/em&gt; printers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But there are ways to get some partially decent prints made:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;you might want a small nozzle. 0.2 is about the smallest you can do without specialty extruders, so there is our lower limit.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You need to make sure to have a minimum layer time set, especially as the crosssections of figures are often rather slim.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Overhangs can be a pain&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might be better-served printing &amp;quot;meeples&amp;quot; than actual figurines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastActivityDate="2021-05-01T20:57:17.260" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16229" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16236" CreationDate="2021-05-01T23:37:11.777" Score="0" ViewCount="513" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I first got my 3D printer (a FlashForge Adventurer 3), it came with a sample pack of filament. With this filament, I was able to use skirts for my first layer. When the sample filament ran out, I switched to Hatchbox PLA filament. For some reason, I cannot use skirts with the Hatchbox filament. Now, whenever I try to print something with a skirt, the print moves around, ruining it. The only first-layer that works now are rafts, which I do not like, as they use up more filament and are more of a pain to remove. Is anyone else having this problem? If so, what are some workarounds to this issue?&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/913g2.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Here are the failed prints. I terminated them mid-way, as they started to shift on the build plate.&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are the failed prints. I terminated them mid-way, as they started&#xA;to shift on the build plate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27385" LastEditorUserId="27385" LastEditDate="2021-05-02T01:52:14.363" LastActivityDate="2021-05-05T04:43:45.677" Title="My Hatchbox PLA filament only allows me to use rafts" Tags="|pla|filament|adhesion|filament-quality|rafts|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16231" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15705" CreationDate="2021-05-02T03:40:09.800" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If your printer has only one extruder, leave the Extruder G-Code empty. This setting is useful for multi-extruder printing (e.g. multicolor). The extruder G-Code runs each time you switch to and away from that extruder, and can be used for stuff such as retracting a filament when switching.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28136" LastActivityDate="2021-05-02T03:40:09.800" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16233" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16229" CreationDate="2021-05-02T12:40:08.590" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is unlikely this is a filament material issue since many of us have used Hatchbox PLA without this issue.  This is a first layer adhesion issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Your bed may not be clean, or the bed may have had an adhesion layer you cleaned off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Your nozzle may be too high on the first layer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Your bed my not be level.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Glue sticks can help adhesion.  Glue sticks usually don't post the composition on the packaging, but Elmer's glue sticks work.  Elmer's washable makes it easy to remove the old layer before adding a new one.  There are also glue sticks specified for 3D-printing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a discussion on glue sticks: &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/15281/are-all-glue-sticks-pva-based-how-to-find-out/15283#15283&quot;&gt;Are all glue sticks PVA-based? How to find out?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15075" LastEditorUserId="15075" LastEditDate="2021-05-02T12:51:47.547" LastActivityDate="2021-05-02T12:51:47.547" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16234" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16227" CreationDate="2021-05-02T12:49:18.500" Score="6" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;To remove unwanted residual material:&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You can scrape with a knife&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use sand paper&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;use files&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Very fine sandpaper or files can smooth out the rough surfaces left from filing or sanding.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Dremel tools tend to be aggressive.  They tend to melt the surface if too fast.  Buffing wheels are probably the most useful on a Dremel.  Dremel tools are good for cutting.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol start=&quot;2&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;A deburring tool can remove sharp edges such as parts of the brim that don't want to come loose.  However, it's not unusually to need to scrape off flat surfaces as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If you want to smooth out the surfaces left from layers, you can:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Carefully use a heat gun or heat from other soldering tools; not spending too long in one spot.  The difficulty with using heat is most prints have fill rather than being solid; so, with only two or three outside layers, it's easy to get the surface to deform into the fill. Also the print material will tend to stick to solid surfaces hot enough to melt the material.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use acetone on ABS.  Don't breath the fumes or dissolve your print.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Paint the surface as the comment from user77232&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15075" LastEditorUserId="15075" LastEditDate="2021-05-11T13:20:34.147" LastActivityDate="2021-05-11T13:20:34.147" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16235" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-05-02T15:54:00.067" Score="1" ViewCount="4710" Body="&lt;p&gt;Before you select if you want automatic or manual leveling, the printer runs a routine to determine the Home Z-axis at the center of the bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This starts OK, then the level goes to maximum (of the screw) and stops. Click on the + or - button for the Z-axis does nothing. I tried to flash the firmware again (I flashed it previously to fix the auto-leveling stalled as recommended by Creality) with no effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZmBhR.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZmBhR.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you can see in the image above, the bed has lifted up the print head. That is repeating in printing, leaving scratch marks on the bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27094" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-05-03T13:30:10.433" LastActivityDate="2022-11-19T20:11:59.223" Title="How to solve Ender 5+ weird Z-axis behavior issue?" Tags="|bed-leveling|z-axis|creality-ender-5|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16236" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16229" CreationDate="2021-05-02T17:23:18.890" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;PLA is a forgiving filament, you can even print such filament without a heated bed. Although there are differences in quality between brands, PLA shouldn't need a raft to be printed. Hatchbox filament is not considered as a low quality type of filament; it is economical and has been around since 2013. A raft is a structured platform that is specifically used for high temperature and or high shrinkage types of filament, PLA is not such a filament and shouldn't need a raft. This implies that something is wrong with getting the filament sticking to the plate. Good adhesion requires a levelled bed, a correct initial nozzle to build plate distance (e.g. paper thickness) and possibly an adhesive like a glue stick, special adhesion spray, a textured bed or blue tape, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2021-05-02T17:23:18.890" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16239" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-05-03T23:23:30.200" Score="0" ViewCount="3747" Body="&lt;p&gt;This issue just started recently; I am not sure if it is because of the specific part I am printing or whether something on the printer is going bad. Up until now, I have been printing all kinds of parts with no problems whatsoever.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am printing a hollow sphere whose walls have fill paths that require the X and Y to change rapidly. i.e. the wall is 2 mm thick and the wall-line-count setting is set to 2.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the print head is jerking back and forth to fill in this area it causes horrible vibrations and really bad Y layer shift. You can see the vibrations transferred through the flexible neck of the black LED light in the foreground.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/T4knYy665fI?start=0&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All the Cura settings are at default- I have not tried to speed up my printing in any way by adjusting the settings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The vibration seems to be coming from the Y stepper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have already tried tightening the belt; everything else seems tight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is an Ender 3 Pro with a stock mainboard and probably around 50 hours on it +/- 20 hours.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have printed the same part on my other printer with no issues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is happening now on other parts that do not have particularly high jerk paths, it is shifting the Y by a full mm or more at a time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would you say the stepper motor is going bad? Or the driver? Or something else?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is the part in the video; I of course stopped the print after it started shifting:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DQ9JC.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DQ9JC.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And this is how it is supposed to look:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Bkr03.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Bkr03.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is the path that causes the problem:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/k4rPv.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/k4rPv.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14623" LastEditorUserId="14623" LastEditDate="2021-05-05T00:43:36.203" LastActivityDate="2024-02-17T02:05:25.697" Title="Jerk causing vibration and Y layer shift... Bad stepper?" Tags="|creality-ender-3|stepper|layer-shifting|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16240" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16239" CreationDate="2021-05-04T06:36:34.420" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your video doesn’t show a printer moving terribly fast, which makes it seem like it could be a problem with the motion or the electronics. Check the movement of the Y axis by hand, is it smooth? With the belt on, and the stepper motor attached, you’ll feel some resistance and little bumps, from the steps in the motor, but it should be pretty smooth, and especially it should be consistent across the range the bed can move. If you take the belt off, the motion should be like butter. Check the belt pulley isn’t slipping on the motor shaft. Check the idler on the other end of the belt spins freely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The motor could be suspect, the driver could be suspect. Try running the printer so it sends the bed back and forth, and push against it with your hand a little as it moves. It should be pretty strong, and shouldn’t skip steps from some light pressure. If it does skip easily, it’s something with the motor or driver, or possibly the wiring to the motor (I had a failing connection on my extruder stepper that manifested as wimpy torque and skipped steps). You can beep the wire with a multimeter, and wiggle it around as you beep in case it is a loose/flaky connection. I’m not sure if the creality printers have trimpots for the motor drivers, but some drivers have a bias adjustment where you adjust a voltage with a multimeter, to decide how much current the motor gets. It’s not usually something that goes out of adjustment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it doesn’t skip steps easily from adding some resistance with your hand, then it might be an incorrect jerk setting on the printer, or the slicer travel speed is too fast, or, the hot end is hitting some plastic that is sticking up (an overhang curled up possibly), and skipping a step there maybe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27077" LastEditorUserId="27077" LastEditDate="2021-05-04T06:46:50.747" LastActivityDate="2021-05-04T06:46:50.747" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16241" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11321" CreationDate="2021-05-04T18:33:25.343" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should be able to add a global override to the flow percentage on Marlin firmware printers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Add this line somewhere in your start code:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;code&gt;M221 S97 ; Flow Percentage hard set.&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In Cura, edit the printer's machine settings. The &lt;code&gt;S&lt;/code&gt; is the percentage. In my case, 97 % works for PLA+.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a link you might find useful.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M221.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Marlin Docs&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28177" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-05-05T06:25:07.210" LastActivityDate="2021-05-05T06:25:07.210" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16242" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11381" CreationDate="2021-05-04T18:43:11.700" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Maybe an adhesion issue. I use 320 wet/dry paper on my mats when they fail to work.&#xA;Just circular motions.. Clean well with Windex or alcohol.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28177" LastEditorUserId="28177" LastEditDate="2021-05-04T19:07:31.987" LastActivityDate="2021-05-04T19:07:31.987" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16243" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16229" CreationDate="2021-05-04T23:54:55.253" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Please try one (or more) of the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Change the temperature of your heated bed (50 - 60 °C)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Check your nozzle height (0.15 - 0.25 mm is what I use)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Make sure your bed is level (Maybe use a leaving stick (or whatever those bubble things are called))&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Use adhesion. Start with painter's tape (least damaging, easy to remove), then use a glue stick or even hair spray if necessary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Be sure the bed is clean (I recommend glass cleaner 1-3 squirts and then a light scrub of a paper towel)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28179" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2021-05-05T04:43:45.677" LastActivityDate="2021-05-05T04:43:45.677" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16244" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16200" CreationDate="2021-05-05T00:28:19.587" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If your having first layer adhesion issues:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please try one (or more) of the following (Start with #1), and remember that all of them are equally important!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Make sure your bed is level (Maybe use a leaving stick (or whatever those bubble things are called))&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Be sure the bed is clean (I recommend glass cleaner 1-3 squirts and then a light scrub of a paper towel)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Change the temperature of your heated bed (50 - 60 °C)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Check your nozzle height (.15 - .25 mm is what I use)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Lastly, use bed adhesion. Start with painter's tape (least damaging, easy to remove), then use a glue stick or even hair spray if necessary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28179" LastActivityDate="2021-05-05T00:28:19.587" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16245" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-05-05T06:40:32.123" Score="0" ViewCount="581" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought a new &amp;quot;RepRap Discount Full Graphic Smart Controller&amp;quot; for my printer. I'm having a hard time installing it. LCD wouldn't turn on and a ticking noise was getting out of the buzzer. It turned out that some have inverted sockets! So I scratched them to be used inverted. LCD turned on, rotary encoder, reset button, SD card and potentiometer and everything work but I get a quite scrambled show on LCD as it's shown in the picture.&#xA;I tried every possible combination of sockets (inverted and not) I don't know what is wrong!!!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/W6szV.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/W6szV.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13700" LastActivityDate="2021-05-05T06:40:32.123" Title="Problems with &quot;Discount Full Graphic Smart Controller&quot;!" Tags="|reprap|lcd-screen|full-graphic-smart-controller|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16246" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16247" CreationDate="2021-05-05T08:11:32.893" Score="2" ViewCount="349" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I buy a printer, it will be going on a small table on a front porch so as to keep the smell from the house. The porch has a roof, so precipitation is not a concern. I will find a way to keep the wind out, so that will also not be a factor. The only concern I can see is the lack of climate control. The printer will probably be an Ender 3 Pro. Will this turn out bad for the prints? Do I need to be concerned about dew? Any other concerns? Solutions?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28186" LastActivityDate="2021-05-05T22:01:31.600" Title="Will there be any negative effects on the print process if the printer is outside?" Tags="|creality-ender-3|print-quality|outdoors|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16247" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16246" CreationDate="2021-05-05T09:36:42.407" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Unless you enclose the printer fully in some way or another, I see problems, even beyond just print quality:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;humidity can and will end inside the printer by condensation and destroy the electronics, especially in the fall and winter months.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;being accessible, children from the neighborhood might get their stubby fingers into the running machine or throw off the leveling.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;being not locked in a box, people might decide to nick your printer.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If the printer is in the sun, the filament might age much more rapidly&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Moisture can impact your filaments, making prints impossible with some filaments unless those are kept in a dry container.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Shifting temperatures along a day could lead to prints warping during printing, resulting in deformed prints.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2021-05-05T22:01:31.600" LastActivityDate="2021-05-05T22:01:31.600" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16248" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16254" CreationDate="2021-05-05T15:30:59.503" Score="1" ViewCount="132" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.imdb.com/title/tt9742794/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;The Vault (2021)&lt;/a&gt; movie has a scene at around 42' in which a laser scanner with a rotating table is used to scan a key in a short time, maybe some minutes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/v7Dqo.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/v7Dqo.png&quot; alt=&quot;Scene&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No calibration is done whatsoever. The scan quality must be high enough for the replicated key to be useful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it technically possible? Is it exagerated? Is it fiction?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11091" LastActivityDate="2021-05-06T15:30:42.433" Title="Laser 3D scanner is used in the movie to scan a key: technically possible?" Tags="|scanning|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16249" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16253" CreationDate="2021-05-05T18:22:00.617" Score="1" ViewCount="1997" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm printing a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:271769&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Tower of Pi&lt;/a&gt; on my Ender 3, and I woke up to find this near the extruder:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dEH1M.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Powder and shavings piled up in front of the extruder&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All my attempts to google this led to checking for either a clogged nozzle or the extruder itself stripping the filament, neither of which appears to be the case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It looks like the upper edge of the filament might be grinding against the intake hole, so I looked into lubrication, but the consensus appears to be &amp;quot;don't&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has anyone else had this problem? Is there a name for it, and how do I fix it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28195" LastActivityDate="2021-05-05T22:26:44.597" Title="Excessive filament powder/shavings near the extruder" Tags="|creality-ender-3|filament|troubleshooting|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16250" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-05-05T18:39:17.473" Score="0" ViewCount="32" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a strange problem with my Hictop Prusa i3 printer. Recently almost all my prints fail midway (even small prints that were successful in the past). At some random location and time, the x and y axis start moving in one direction either following a straight line or while making small semi-circles (while the extruder keeps running), until colliding with the frame a couple of seconds after. At that point the printer just keeps trying to go in the same direction while hitting the frame repetitively and the display appears frozen (print cannot be stopped from the display). To stop the print I am forced to completely switch the printer off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have already checked that all axis move smoothly, that the belts are tight enough (but not too tight), and that the bearings are greased. The printer was working perfectly for a couple of years until it never worked properly again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also tried a running a print in which the extruder and nozzle heater are not used (moving only the x, y and z stepping motors). This seems to make the prints run longer until the same problem happens again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would appreciate any support you could give me to solve this issue. I suspect it is an electrical problem perhaps triggered after overheating of a circuit component.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28199" LastEditorUserId="10321" LastEditDate="2021-05-05T22:17:29.580" LastActivityDate="2021-05-05T22:17:29.580" Title="Print stops midway and extruder collides with the frame while printer display appears frozen" Tags="|prusa-i3|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16253" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16249" CreationDate="2021-05-05T22:16:52.640" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The shavings come in part from the extruder design: there is no fillet on the pulling in side, the filament goes up in a sharp angle and is dragged over a rather sharp edge. It also brushes against the leadscrew.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To help with the shavings, you should alter the filament path to try and have a flatter angle than the 90°. A simple rod that pushes out the filament to come in at 80° might already reduce the number of shavings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More might be reduced by opening the entry hole of the filament to have a 1-2 mm phase around it, altering the angle of the edge that the filament runs against to a much lower one and reducing the ability to shave off flakes. I did swap my extruder for an aluminium one, and it has this phase, and since then I have had little to no shavings at that spot anymore.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2021-05-05T22:26:44.597" LastActivityDate="2021-05-05T22:26:44.597" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16254" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16248" CreationDate="2021-05-06T15:30:42.433" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;There have been instances where people have &lt;a href=&quot;https://hotforsecurity.bitdefender.com/blog/key-cloning-app-lets-you-or-a-stranger-copy-your-key-with-a-photo-18359.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;replicated a key&lt;/a&gt; from a &lt;em&gt;photograph&lt;/em&gt; of a key. A multi-minute scan of a key seems like overkill, but that appears to be a very &lt;em&gt;large&lt;/em&gt; key so maybe so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it possible? Yes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it exaggerated? Probably much simpler than is portrayed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it fiction? As portrayed, yes. Practically, no.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1847" LastActivityDate="2021-05-06T15:30:42.433" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16255" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15887" CreationDate="2021-05-06T18:42:58.780" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are several ways to be injured with a 3D printer.  The biggest threats come from the printer running under normal conditions.  The uncommon, exceptional, and difficult to quantify threats come from fire and fumes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For fire, consider the 3D printer to be like any other 400W heating appliance in your house, with the advantage compared to, say, a television in that you can inspect most of the failure points.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check the feed points where the power connects to the power supply, main board, and the power lines to the bed heater and hot-end heater cartridge.  After a few hours of printing, these should still not be hot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is always the possibility of a thermistor failure and thermal run-away.  Most good control firmware should detect this possibility and fail with an error.  If you are using custom firmware, you might want to check that this is included.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For fumes, the evidence is real that fumes are produced.  It is less clear the nature and dosage of their effects.  If the fumes bother you, don't breath them.  If you are concerned, consider an enclosure with an activated carbon filter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the more immediate threats, you need to always take care when working with the printer.  The hot end can burn you quickly.  The heated bed can burn you more slowly.  Gears, belts, and moving parts cause pinching hazards, and blood blisters can be raised easily.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Glass beds may have sharp edges, and can break to create thousands of sharp edges.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In conclusion, remember that stamped sheet metal parts, present on some printers, can bear burrs and sharp edges, inviting you to leave bloody finger prints.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A 3D printer, like many things, is dangerous in many ways.  I've experienced the common threats, and have avoided the less common ones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Be careful, but in my view a personal 3D printer is by far safer than any metalworking machine.  I have been more injured by a drill press, and welding fumes are more noxious then filament out-gassing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2082" LastActivityDate="2021-05-06T18:42:58.780" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16257" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-05-06T22:18:38.320" Score="1" ViewCount="34" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am currently working on a short G-code to turn a LED light while moving through a specified path and then turning it off while moving to the next path. So I used &lt;code&gt;M42&lt;/code&gt; but It seems to turn it and off even before the path has started. My code is the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;G28 ; home all axes&#xA;G1 Z20 F3000 ; lift&#xA;M42 P40 S0&#xA;; ----- HEADER -----&#xA;G1 F720 X112.33511 Y81.240995 Z258.23098 E0&#xA;M42 P40 S255&#xA;G4 P2000&#xA;G1 F720 X105.351433 Y81.240995 Z163.706453 E0&#xA;G1 F720 X183.876808 Y81.240995 Z122.186662 E0&#xA;G1 F720 X227.765593 Y81.240995 Z229.233326 E0&#xA;G1 F720 X244.826242 Y81.240995 Z133.513642 E0&#xA;M42 P40 S0&#xA;; ------ FOOTER -----&#xA;G28 X0 ; home X axis&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know something further about this command? May be there is some parameter so it waits untill it's set on or off?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28221" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-05-06T22:31:19.793" LastActivityDate="2021-05-06T22:31:19.793" Title="G-code pin state turns off" Tags="|g-code|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16258" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-05-06T23:53:49.603" Score="2" ViewCount="416" Body="&lt;p&gt;Thinking about different types of extruder designs, and especially remote direct drive, I wondered if anyone's ever made a cartesian bed slinger printer (Ender 3 style) where a direct drive extruder on top of the X carriage is driven by a stationary E motor at the end of the gantry via a belt. This would of course turn the extruder hob whenever there's motion along the X axis, so the X and E motors would have to be synchronized, with effective extrusion being the difference of the X and E motor motions (thus my allusion to CoreXY in the name). Are there reasons not to do this, aside from needing an over-engineered belt assembly with closed loop belt? It seems like you could get whatever reduction you need just with an appropriate belt pulley, and no need for a gearbox on top of the hotend to get the necessary torque to the extruder hob.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course as described this only makes sense for bed slinger printers, since if you have to move the gantry in the Y direction, you have the motor mass moving just like a normal direct drive. Of course it might be extensible to &amp;quot;CoreXYE&amp;quot; with an appropriate belt layout.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2021-05-07T00:35:36.533" Title="Is &quot;CoreXE&quot; a thing, or is there a reason it's not?" Tags="|extruder|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16259" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16258" CreationDate="2021-05-07T00:35:36.533" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Wow, Kevin O'Connor (of Klipper) just pointed me to a real CoreXYE design by Vlad Strateniuk called REXY, with video available:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/TQYYHrxIG90?start=70&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's an &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/KevinOConnor/klipper/issues/3821&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;open Klipper issue&lt;/a&gt; about supporting it and apparently Marlin was already adapted to run on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2021-05-07T00:35:36.533" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16260" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15127" CreationDate="2021-05-07T07:42:33.883" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I wouldn't worry about that overhang. It should settle in a few layers. Just make sure you have a decent cooling fan on it.&#xA;Given the fact that you are making a helmet, I assume you are going to sand and apply putty to the whole thing at least 2 times and then sand in increasing grit. A little filing on that overhang will be an easy task.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4708" LastActivityDate="2021-05-07T07:42:33.883" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16261" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-05-07T17:55:50.200" Score="1" ViewCount="306" Body="&lt;p&gt;While installing my dual Z rod kit for my Ender 3, I noticed something I had completely missed. From the looks of it, I think my Z 2040 extrusions are bent? When I look at the printer head-on at the bottom the Z extrusion sits flush with the Y extrusion shown below:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ecQXR.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ecQXR.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Bottom view of Z Extrusion&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, when I then look at it head-on at the top, the Z extrusion does not sit flush with the 2020 extrusion mounted on top shown below:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DCJAU.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DCJAU.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Top view of Z Extrusion&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the case for both Z 2040 extrusions. Does this mean my extrusions are bent? How would this affect my prints? Would I need to buy replacement 2040 extrusions or is this fine?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19218" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-05-07T19:27:44.283" LastActivityDate="2021-05-07T19:27:44.283" Title="Ender 3 - Are my 2040 Z extrusions bent?" Tags="|creality-ender-3|mechanics|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16262" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16235" CreationDate="2021-05-08T15:28:09.653" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ok. So I solve the issue by myself. So to explain the problem a bit further: I had to install a new firmware. That completely reinitialize the z-axis, making the bed goes to the maximum of the screw to the point it lift the print head when I clicked on the Leveling button. To reverse the initialization of the z-axis, I click on the &lt;em&gt;Leveling button&lt;/em&gt;,  manually lower the bed by clicking on &lt;strong&gt;the upper arrow&lt;/strong&gt;, then, click on manual or auto leveling, then click again on leveling and start over. At each iteration, the starting point of the bed gets lower and lower to a normal position. I had to do 4 or 5 iterations until I get the desired result. Bonus point: when you click on the &lt;em&gt;move button&lt;/em&gt;, the bed goes down if you click down of the z-axis. The opposite behavior is happening in the leveling menu: so you need to click a couple of time (between 10 and 20 time for me at the first iteration) before the bed isn't in contact of the print head.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27094" LastActivityDate="2021-05-08T15:28:09.653" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16263" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-05-08T16:27:29.247" Score="1" ViewCount="2909" Body="&lt;p&gt;I’ve got this proximity sensor which is a 5 V, it doesn’t say it can be used over 5 V. Can I use a buck converter or is it possible to wire it up direct to a 5 V source on the Ender 3 V2?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I don’t understand is where to wire it direct to 5 V on the printer or if I use a buck converter then where does the 3rd wire go to on the printer?&#xA;If it goes to the signal wire on the Z endstop then which one is the signal wire?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0yHTW.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0yHTW.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28236" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-05-09T05:10:02.840" LastActivityDate="2021-06-08T12:35:33.180" Title="How to wire 5 V proximity sensor Ender 3 V2?" Tags="|creality-ender-3|creality|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16265" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16263" CreationDate="2021-05-09T10:42:27.717" Score="1" Body="&lt;h1&gt;That part seems dubious&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your part is labeled &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.finglai.com/products/sensors/cylinder-proximity-sensors/M18-8mm/LJ18A3-8-Z_BX.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;code&gt;LJ18A3-8-Z/BX&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/a&gt;. That is a Z/BX type sensor of the LJ18A3-8 series - that first part dictates an M18 outer thread and thus dimensions and a triggering distance of 8mm. &lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.world/datasheets/LJ18A3-8-ZBY.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Z/BX indicates&lt;/a&gt; NPN NO, so a normally open sensor of the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.arrow.com/en/research-and-events/articles/npn-vs-pnp-in-circuit-design-and-industrial-controls&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;NPN type&lt;/a&gt;. However, that labeling indicates an inductive sensor with a required &lt;strong&gt;supply voltage of 6 to 36 V&lt;/strong&gt; and a power draw of 10 mA between the supply and ground line and a digital output signal of 300 mA.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a variant in existence, that has a 5 V supply voltage, but its part number is different by 3 characters: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.finglai.com/products/sensors/cylinder-proximity-sensors/M18-8mm/LJ18A3-8-Z_BX-5V.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;code&gt;LJ18A3-8-Z/BX-5V&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/a&gt; - the appended &lt;code&gt;-5V&lt;/code&gt; is crucial to show it differs from the standard!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;The Ender-3 Board&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Ender-3 board has a 24 V input from the power supply and runs its end-stops on 5 V logic. That would suffice to connect the output of a &lt;code&gt;LJ18A3-8-Z/BX-5V&lt;/code&gt; sensor directly to a sensor pin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2021-05-09T11:20:28.263" LastActivityDate="2021-05-09T11:20:28.263" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16267" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-05-09T19:02:45.433" Score="1" ViewCount="5604" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought a Vivedino T-Rex 3 not realizing it doesn't have continue after power failure.  I am over it.  What I usually do is keep the part away from the home position so if it crashes I can continue without crashing the head during z home.  I measure the height of what printed open the G-code and remove the layers before the layer with that Z height, then run &lt;code&gt;G28 X Y&lt;/code&gt;  to get away from the print.  Then run &lt;code&gt;G28 Z&lt;/code&gt;.  But the T-Rex has a Bltouch and it goes to the middle of the bed to home the Z-axis. This is due to something called &amp;quot;Z safehoming is enabled&amp;quot;.  I don't want to change the T-Rex Marlin firmware. Is there a way to tell it when I am doctoring up the G-code to home the Z at at y = 5 mm x = 200 mm?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28264" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-05-09T20:37:27.943" LastActivityDate="2021-05-10T17:30:44.460" Title="How do I change Z safe homing coordinates in the G-code , not in Marlin" Tags="|g-code|bltouch|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16268" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16267" CreationDate="2021-05-09T20:48:58.893" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Don’t home the Z. Rather measure the height of your print to continue at with calipers. Or with detective work in your G-code preview, finding the layer your print stopped at and finding the Z height of that layer. The direction of the infill can be a clue. Then carefully lower your Z-axis until your nozzle is at the right height for your next layer (so get the nozzle .2 mm above your printed layer if you’re doing .2 mm layers).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit your print G-code to change &lt;code&gt;G28&lt;/code&gt;, to be &lt;code&gt;G28 X0 Y0&lt;/code&gt;, so that it only homes X and Y, not Z. Erase any line with &lt;code&gt;G29&lt;/code&gt; (auto-leveling routine), or it will crash into your print. After the &lt;code&gt;G28 X0 Y0&lt;/code&gt; line, enter &lt;code&gt;G92 Z&lt;/code&gt;[your starting Z layer height in mm] that spoofs the Z position to the 3D printer, and it shouldn’t need to home. Then edit the rest of the G-code to start at the next layer of your resumed print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Leave all the beginning commands that do setup, temperature, and erase the lines beginning with the movement, lots of &lt;code&gt;G1&lt;/code&gt; commands. Find the &lt;code&gt;G1 Z&lt;/code&gt;[your resumed layer height] command and begin there, that’s the beginning of the layer. Make sure there’s an existing &lt;code&gt;G92 E0&lt;/code&gt; that resets the extruder distance, and the layer starts from a reset extruder position, you don’t want it to frantically dump a bunch of plastic on your print at the first extrude command (that’s one danger of resuming in in the middle of a layer).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Get everything heated up before you hit print, home the X and Y, stay in that position, and prime the nozzle. You can even hold something flat under the nozzle to keep it primed while you start the print, and have some tweezers handy to catch the goober on the hot end, so it doesn’t wipe it on your print. It helps to have a retract move when you begin, many slicers have a retract move when it advances to the next layer, you may want to start your G-code on that line if it’s before the line with the &lt;code&gt;G1 Z&lt;/code&gt; [your layer height].&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27077" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-05-10T17:30:44.460" LastActivityDate="2021-05-10T17:30:44.460" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16269" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16272" CreationDate="2021-05-10T05:01:07.673" Score="1" ViewCount="284" Body="&lt;p&gt;Because of the crazy shipping prices, I want to find a cheaper alternative to ordering a 600$ all-metal hot-end.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a material like that which does what PTFE does but till higher temperatures?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26959" LastActivityDate="2021-05-10T18:47:48.693" Title="Can I use a material other than PTFE to print PETG?" Tags="|all-metal-hotend|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16270" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-05-10T12:14:57.783" Score="0" ViewCount="204" Body="&lt;p&gt;On Anet A8 with &lt;strong&gt;SKR V1.1 32 bit board&lt;/strong&gt; my intention is to use &lt;strong&gt;3 extruders&lt;/strong&gt; on my Anet A8, &lt;em&gt;1+2 via Y-piece on single nozzle&lt;/em&gt;, 3rd Extruder with 2nd nozzle. Need another stepper to connect to SKR V1.1 (10 additional pins are available), extruder 1 + 2 go to single nozzle/heater via a Y-piece, 3rd extruder is on its own with own nozzle/heater. How to modify &lt;strong&gt;latest Marlin&lt;/strong&gt; for this?? Please, all help appreciated, thanks a lot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28263" LastActivityDate="2024-01-27T04:07:20.890" Title="3 Extruders on SKR V1.1, how set up 2 in 1 out (Y piece), and 1 single extruder in latest Marlin?" Tags="|marlin|anet-a8|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16271" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16319" CreationDate="2021-05-10T15:34:12.333" Score="2" ViewCount="163" Body="&lt;p&gt;Today I ran into an issue with the filament not sticking to the build plate. However, the strange part is, that this only happens with one filament color (both PLA, khaki, black works just fine) and only in the main print. The test line on the side of the bed and the brim all stick without a problem. I already releveled everything and as I'm using ABL and the other filament works fine, this shouldn't be the issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also tried increasing the first layer thickness in Cura, however, this leads to extreme warp (2 mm height on 5 mm width).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From my observations, it seems that the print head is raised after the brim is printed. Is there a setting in Cura to change that?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Printer Details:&lt;/strong&gt; Modified Ender-3 with MKS Gen L V2 Board and TMC 2209 motor drivers and BLTouch&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;Print temp:&lt;/strong&gt; 220 °C / 70 °C initial after that 200 °C / 60 °C&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;Firmware:&lt;/strong&gt; Marlin, details &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/MasterPuffin/MKS-GEN-L-V2-Marlin-Firmware-for-Ender-3/tree/BLTouch&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28293" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-05-10T17:30:16.100" LastActivityDate="2021-05-19T17:30:27.050" Title="Print not sticking to bed" Tags="|marlin|pla|adhesion|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16272" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16269" CreationDate="2021-05-10T18:38:41.250" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;PETG does not need an all-metal hotend or alternate bowden/lining material. Unless you're trying to print at &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7zkKcFtLAks&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;code&gt;#speedboatrace&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/a&gt;-competitive speeds, the recommended print temperature range for PETG is 230-250 °C, and the temperature above which you should not use a PTFE-lined hotend is 250 °C.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastEditorUserId="11157" LastEditDate="2021-05-10T18:47:48.693" LastActivityDate="2021-05-10T18:47:48.693" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16273" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16271" CreationDate="2021-05-11T11:28:23.117" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes you can edit many parameters in Cura that may help with your problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I believe an easier fix to this problem may be to either apply some glue or masking tape to the bed before you try to change Cura settings since the problem only occurs with just one filament type..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28312" LastActivityDate="2021-05-11T11:28:23.117" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16274" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16270" CreationDate="2021-05-11T21:11:25.887" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The latest Marlin, version 2.0.8, allows for multiple extruders (albeit with a single or multiple stepper motors) through a single nozzle, or multiple extruders with multiple nozzles, it is not possible with the current compiler definitions to configure a mixed extruder nozzle concept; this would require more changes to the sources.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2021-05-11T21:11:25.887" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16277" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11963" CreationDate="2021-05-12T04:45:37.740" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I also had the extruder drive slipping backwards (clicking sound) as well and narrowed it down to a Cura update that had changed my Ender 3 machine settings from Marlin to Marlin (volume metric).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once changed back to Marlin, all is well now.  No over extruding.  Before reversing the change, I had to reduce the flow rate to 53 %. Now, I’m back to 100 % and very good prints.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Printing with eSun PETG, with the following settings:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;temperature: 235 °C,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;retraction 6 mm @ 25 mm/sec,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;initial height 2 mm,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;all others 1.8 mm,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;speed 30 mm/sec,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;fan on 50 % at layer 3 - no stringing.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28330" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2021-05-12T09:34:38.223" LastActivityDate="2021-05-12T09:34:38.223" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16278" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5579" CreationDate="2021-05-12T06:01:41.283" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I decided to go the way of a silicon heat pad (12V/24V) 200 W.  I got the unit and a 3 mm glass bed. Clipped it to the aluminum, and promptly the head crashed into the side of the bed!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lesson learned. The Mini in order to go home transitions to a spot at the front of the bed and actually lower than the bed.  This is so that you can level the bed manually by adjusting 4 screws on the gantry. The gantry sits on the bed thus leveling it to the bed.  Because of this, there is only about 4 mm of height available.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One individual who added a heated placed a riser under the z-axis to overcome this limitation. My other thought is to replace the aluminum bed with a glass bed and have the heater on either side of the bottom gantry as there is about 2 mm space there. Since there is an end stop the unit is using others have simply moved this up to match the new height of the bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am assuming &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.soliforum.com/topic/18382/how-to-da-vinci-mini-heatbed-conversion/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;[HOW TO] Da Vinci Mini Heatbed Conversion&lt;/a&gt; would have attempted a software patch before doing a physical riser.  While in some ways I would feel better raising the riser, I decided to extend the tab on the extruder head to intercept the sensor instead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28335" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2021-05-12T09:37:47.123" LastActivityDate="2021-05-12T09:37:47.123" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16279" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-05-12T06:54:54.580" Score="4" ViewCount="9331" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;My setup&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ender 3&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Creality glass bed&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Creality 3D BL Touch auto bed levelling kit v1&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Creality 3D silent mainboard v4.2.7&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;OctoPrint running on a Raspberry Pi 4 connected over USB (with the 5 V pin covered with a piece of tape to prevent powering the mainboard)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Problem&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Despite starting with &lt;code&gt;G28&lt;/code&gt; &amp;amp; &lt;code&gt;G29&lt;/code&gt; in my G-code file, and the printer &amp;amp; BLTouch doing a proper bed levelling (the BLTouch seems to work as intended), the first layer comes out uneven. Please find some pictures below of a test print (&lt;a href=&quot;https://thingiverse.com/thing:4077747&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this one&lt;/a&gt;). I hope the pictures show clearly that the nozzle is too close in the bottom left, and too far in the top right (top left is also a bit far, and bottom right a bit close).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've done days of research, all over the web, Reddit, forums &amp;amp; YouTube and tried numerous fixes, to no avail&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KBGqd.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KBGqd.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;total&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0AUFG.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0AUFG.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;top left&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TXjUk.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TXjUk.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;top right&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Qhg7n.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Qhg7n.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;bottom left&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/leTlq.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/leTlq.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;bottom right&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What I've done to try to fix / debug 1: Observe z compensation&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I do a test print with a bed levelling at the start, I observe the z-axis go up and down during the print, suggesting the printer is trying to compensate based on the readings from the start of the print. It just seems it's not compensating enough (or too much).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I run a &lt;code&gt;M420 V&lt;/code&gt; I get (which implies it has the mesh loaded):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Send: M420 V&#xA;Communication timeout while idle, trying to trigger response from printer. Configure long running commands or     increase communication timeout if that happens regularly on specific commands or long moves.&#xA;Recv: Bilinear Leveling Grid:&#xA;Recv:       0      1      2      3      4&#xA;Recv:  0 +1.245 +1.257 +1.282 +1.332 +1.342&#xA;Recv:  1 +1.187 +1.167 +1.130 +1.127 +1.147&#xA;Recv:  2 +1.082 +1.080 +1.057 +1.077 +1.085&#xA;Recv:  3 +1.202 +1.147 +1.057 +1.000 +0.957&#xA;Recv:  4 +1.192 +1.180 +1.117 +1.085 +1.027&#xA;Recv:&#xA;Recv: echo:Bed Leveling ON&#xA;Recv: echo:Fade Height 10.00&#xA;Recv: ok P15 B3&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What I've done to try to fix / debug 2: Level the bed as much as possible&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've tried to level the bed as best as possible. As you can observe from the &lt;code&gt;M420 V&lt;/code&gt; command the bed is pretty level. This was done using the Bed Level Visualizer plugin from OctoPrint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What I've done to try to fix / debug 3: I've changed from a 3x3 grid to a 5x5 grid&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As advised in several places the bed levelling is now done with a 5x5 grid. This didn't make a (noticeable) difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What I've done to try to fix / debug 4: I've updated the firmware&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I used to run on the Creality firmware. I've downloaded new firmware from &lt;code&gt;marlin.crc.id.au&lt;/code&gt; (did that today, so using &lt;code&gt;Ender3-v4.2.7-BLTouch-20210511.bin&lt;/code&gt;). Didn't help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What I've done to try to fix / debug 5: I've calibrated the Z-offset&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've done a lot of tests, tweaking the z value to the current value, where part of the bed comes too close to the nozzle, and part of the bed stays too far away. So the Z-offset is not going to be able to improve anything I believe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What I've done to try to fix / debug 6: I've done all the regular hardware tweaks&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've checked all the common things: Belts are tight, wheels are properly tightened, nothing is wobbly, Z-axis is clean.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What I've done to try to fix / debug 7: I've tried to add M420 S&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've tried to add the &lt;code&gt;M420&lt;/code&gt; command after the &lt;code&gt;G29&lt;/code&gt; command (I know it shouldn't be needed, as &lt;code&gt;G29&lt;/code&gt; enables bed levelling, but just wanted to make sure)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Reference: My printer M503 settings&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;echo:  G21    ; Units in mm (mm)&#xA;echo:  M149 C ; Units in Celsius&#xA;echo:; Filament settings: Disabled&#xA;echo:  M200 S0 D1.75&#xA;echo:; Steps per unit:&#xA;echo: M92 X80.00 Y80.00 Z400.00 E93.00&#xA;echo:; Maximum feedrates (units/s):&#xA;echo:  M203 X500.00 Y500.00 Z20.00 E50.00&#xA;echo:; Maximum Acceleration (units/s2):&#xA;echo:  M201 X500.00 Y500.00 Z100.00 E5000.00&#xA;echo:; Acceleration (units/s2): P&amp;lt;print_accel&amp;gt; R&amp;lt;retract_accel&amp;gt; T&amp;lt;travel_accel&amp;gt;&#xA;echo:  M204 P500.00 R500.00 T500.00&#xA;echo:; Advanced: B&amp;lt;min_segment_time_us&amp;gt; S&amp;lt;min_feedrate&amp;gt; T&amp;lt;min_travel_feedrate&amp;gt; X&amp;lt;max_x_jerk&amp;gt; Y&amp;lt;max_y_jerk&amp;gt; Z&amp;lt;max_z_jerk&amp;gt; E&amp;lt;max_e_jerk&amp;gt;&#xA;echo:  M205 B20000.00 S0.00 T0.00 X10.00 Y10.00 Z0.30 E15.00&#xA;echo:; Home offset:&#xA;echo:  M206 X0.00 Y0.00 Z0.00&#xA;echo:; Auto Bed Leveling:&#xA;echo:  M420 S1 Z10.00&#xA;echo:  G29 W I0 J0 Z1.24499&#xA;echo:  G29 W I1 J0 Z1.25749&#xA;echo:  G29 W I2 J0 Z1.28249&#xA;echo:  G29 W I3 J0 Z1.33249&#xA;echo:  G29 W I4 J0 Z1.34249&#xA;echo:  G29 W I0 J1 Z1.18749&#xA;echo:  G29 W I1 J1 Z1.16749&#xA;echo:  G29 W I2 J1 Z1.12999&#xA;echo:  G29 W I3 J1 Z1.12749&#xA;echo:  G29 W I4 J1 Z1.14749&#xA;echo:  G29 W I0 J2 Z1.08249&#xA;echo:  G29 W I1 J2 Z1.07999&#xA;echo:  G29 W I2 J2 Z1.05749&#xA;echo:  G29 W I3 J2 Z1.07749&#xA;echo:  G29 W I4 J2 Z1.08499&#xA;echo:  G29 W I0 J3 Z1.20249&#xA;echo:  G29 W I1 J3 Z1.14749&#xA;echo:  G29 W I2 J3 Z1.05749&#xA;echo:  G29 W I3 J3 Z0.99999&#xA;echo:  G29 W I4 J3 Z0.95749&#xA;echo:  G29 W I0 J4 Z1.19249&#xA;echo:  G29 W I1 J4 Z1.17999&#xA;echo:  G29 W I2 J4 Z1.11749&#xA;echo:  G29 W I3 J4 Z1.08499&#xA;echo:  G29 W I4 J4 Z1.02749&#xA;echo:; Material heatup parameters:&#xA;echo:  M145 S0 H200.00 B60.00 F255&#xA;echo:  M145 S1 H240.00 B70.00 F255&#xA;echo:; PID settings:&#xA;echo:  M301 P21.73 I1.54 D76.55&#xA;echo:; Retract: S&amp;lt;length&amp;gt; F&amp;lt;units/m&amp;gt; Z&amp;lt;lift&amp;gt;&#xA;echo:  M207 S3.00 W13.00 F4800.00 Z0.30&#xA;echo:; Recover: S&amp;lt;length&amp;gt; F&amp;lt;units/m&amp;gt;&#xA;echo:  M208 S0.00 W0.00 F4800.00&#xA;echo:; Z-Probe Offset (mm):&#xA;echo:  M851 X-45.00 Y-7.00 Z-3.30&#xA;echo:; Filament load/unload lengths:&#xA;echo:  M603 L415.00 U450.00&#xA;echo:; Filament runout sensor:&#xA;echo:  M412 S0 D8.00&#xA;ok P15 B3&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Reference: The start of my G-code file&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;;FLAVOR:Marlin&#xA;;TIME:775&#xA;;Filament used: 0.480677m&#xA;;Layer height: 0.2&#xA;;MINX:16.516&#xA;;MINY:16.515&#xA;;MINZ:0.2&#xA;;MAXX:218.485&#xA;;MAXY:218.485&#xA;;MAXZ:0.2&#xA;;Generated with Cura_SteamEngine 4.9.0&#xA;M140 S60&#xA;M105&#xA;M190 S60&#xA;M104 S215&#xA;M105&#xA;M109 S215&#xA;M82 ;absolute extrusion mode&#xA;; Ender 3 Custom Start G-code&#xA;G92 E0 ; Reset Extruder&#xA;G28 ; Home all axes&#xA;G29 ; Auto bed levelling&#xA;G1 Z2.0 F3000 ; Move Z Axis up little to prevent scratching of Heat Bed&#xA;G1 X0.1 Y20 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move to start position&#xA;G1 X0.1 Y200.0 Z0.3 F1500.0 E15 ; Draw the first line&#xA;G1 X0.4 Y200.0 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move to side a little&#xA;G1 X0.4 Y20 Z0.3 F1500.0 E30 ; Draw the second line&#xA;G92 E0 ; Reset Extruder&#xA;G1 Z2.0 F3000 ; Move Z Axis up little to prevent scratching of Heat Bed&#xA;G1 X5 Y20 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move over to prevent blob squish&#xA;G92 E0&#xA;G92 E0&#xA;G1 F2700 E-5&#xA;;LAYER_COUNT:1&#xA;;LAYER:0&#xA;M107&#xA;G0 F6000 X26.14 Y20.098 Z0.2&#xA;;TYPE:SKIRT&#xA;G1 F2700 E0&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Reference: Congifuration.h&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As I've used two precompiled firmwares (see point 4 above), I don't have a &lt;code&gt;Congifuration.h&lt;/code&gt; to share.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Concluding&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope I've given a detailed enough account for you guys to help me. If you have any additional questions I'll try to answer them as quickly as possible. Thanks a million!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28336" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-05-12T08:39:08.243" LastActivityDate="2023-08-08T20:40:51.240" Title="BLTouch not levelling correctly (it does seem to work, just not accurately enough)" Tags="|creality-ender-3|bed-leveling|bltouch|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16280" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16271" CreationDate="2021-05-12T18:11:48.950" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your temperatures look pretty good.  You could try raising both bed temperatures by 5°C.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could try Elmer's glue stick or hair spray.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Make sure your Z height is still OK as well as your bed being level after you loaded the different filament.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15075" LastEditorUserId="15075" LastEditDate="2021-05-19T17:30:27.050" LastActivityDate="2021-05-19T17:30:27.050" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16281" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-05-12T21:07:32.383" Score="0" ViewCount="2562" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sorry, I'm new in 3D printing and modeling and I need help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I bought a 3D model with a hollow part of the body that doesn't print on my printer normally (with very high resolution (layer is 0.12 mm, the nozzle is 0.4 mm) because the walls are very thin).  I tried to make it as a solid in MeshMixer or ZBrush, but  I can't.  Can you help me, how I can fix this defect?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I use Cura for slicing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know, that I can take a thinner nozzle (0.2 mm) and Cura will slice it better, but I want to make this model solid so I could print it with nozzle 0.4 mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QqOdU.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QqOdU.png&quot; alt=&quot;Hollow part of body&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VZNwk.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VZNwk.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;How Cura have sliced that&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28348" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2021-05-14T17:20:10.460" LastActivityDate="2022-06-22T10:35:25.023" Title="Fill hollow part of body in the 3D model" Tags="|3d-models|troubleshooting|meshmixer|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16282" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-05-13T07:01:03.303" Score="3" ViewCount="273" Body="&lt;p&gt;I’m new to using PVA support filament, and have read it is especially prone to absorbing moisture out of the atmosphere. People made it sound like it starts to happen quickly, and if you aren’t supposed to leave it on the machine overnight, what’s the difference between that and doing an overnight print with the roll?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I’m building an enclosure for the printer (BCN3D Sigma, filament lives in the build space), expect the ambient temperature when printing PLA to be ~35 °C, unless I add an active heating element (100 W lightbulb possibly). The question is, do the hygroscopic materials continue to absorb moisture in a warm, toasty environment? And if so, do I need to construct a dry box for the filament to live in as it prints?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A frugal attempt at research brought back this:&#xA;As noted by the Sciencing.com website article &lt;a href=&quot;https://sciencing.com/temperature-ampamp-humidity-related-7245642.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&amp;quot;How Temperature &amp;amp; Humidity are Related&amp;quot;&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As air temperature increases, air can hold more water molecules, and its relative humidity decreases. When temperatures drop, relative humidity increases.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After adding an inexpensive thermometer + hygrometer, I can report my enclosure, heated passively with the heat bed, isn’t very effective at raising the temperature and even less impressive at lowering the relative humidity. With the bed at PLA temperature (65 °C) for 2 hours, the temperature raised from 22 °C to 28 °C, and the relative humidity lowered from 32 % to 29 %.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I may go for an active heating element and will report back on what happens when the chamber is hotter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27077" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-06-02T04:58:08.877" LastActivityDate="2021-06-02T04:58:08.877" Title="Do hygroscopic filaments (PVA, Nylon) absorb moisture while in a heated enclosure" Tags="|enclosure|nylon|pva|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16283" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16301" CreationDate="2021-05-13T09:44:07.277" Score="1" ViewCount="489" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Prusa i3 clones the Z axis is often problematic. Mechanically unsynchronized dual Z axises which are driven by the same stepper driver easily misalign. Using only one Z motor makes the whole gantry sag on one side. And Z lead screws that aren't perfectly straight lead to z wobble.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other day I had a simple idea that would fix all of that, but I can't find anyone who implement it before, so I probably there are drawbacks that I don't see.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The idea is to remove the lead screws (possibly replacing it with a second set of smooth rods to counteract X axis vibrations) and instead hang the gantry onto two ropes/wires which are drawn by a winch. That way, both ends of the gantry could be drawn symmetricaly by a single motor. Since there is no Z lead screw, there is no wobble. And since only the gravity is pulling the gantry down, you shouldn't be able to destroy anything by ramming the nozzle into the bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What drawbacks are there for this system? What am I missing? Is the gravity strong enough to press the nozzle into the last layer when printing? I am using a direct drive extruder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Supplemental follow up question (related to, and answered by, Trish's answer):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From my understanding the hangprinter is only attached to ropes, same as a portal crane. I am considering an i3-style printer with the leadscrews removed, but the smooth Z rods intact (maybe even with a second set of smooth rods in place of the leadscrews. So the only forces that gravity has to work against are: output pressure of the extruder and potential bouncing in z direction. So, how could I calculate if gravity is enough for that?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13550" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2021-05-16T16:09:26.770" LastActivityDate="2021-05-17T08:58:21.847" Title="Z-Axis on a winch" Tags="|prusa-i3|z-axis|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16284" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16313" CreationDate="2021-05-13T11:35:54.940" Score="3" ViewCount="1025" Body="&lt;p&gt;This problem is driving me crazy, no, seriously speaking. I bought this printer this week and started to calibrate for accurate dimensions. I printed the one-and-only calibration cube (20x20x20 also a 10x10x10) and well, the dimensions for the X &amp;amp; Y axis are perfect, but the Z-axis is a big problem, almost 1.5 mm bigger than expected.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried everything in order to resolve this issue, I checked to see if the steps are correctly calibrated using a ruler and moving my extruder up and down, precise as you expected, no weird sounds coming from the Z-axis and stepper while printing. I calibrated the E-Step, also the bed leveling is done automatically using the BLTouch probe. Also I want to mention that the first layer is perfect (took time to calibrate this too).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am using Cura for slicing using the default profile for the Ender 3 Pro, Premium PLA, 210 °C for the first layer &amp;amp; 200 °C for the rest, 50 °C bed temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I will leave here some photos, perhaps somebody could give me an idea.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you can see from the images the Z-axis is scaled-up perfectly. This difference is about 1.5 mm for both cubes (the one with 20 mm &amp;amp; 10 mm).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Has anyone encountered this type of problem before?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT:&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;I will attach some pictures with the first layer. Right now I observe some wobbling in the Z axis and saw that the printer is not perfect laid on the table, one corner was lifted. So I tried to flatten. Waiting for the test print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bGJQg.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bGJQg.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yh1Sb.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yh1Sb.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NfAO0.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NfAO0.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5JQo8.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5JQo8.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28354" LastEditorUserId="28354" LastEditDate="2021-05-13T21:14:28.317" LastActivityDate="2021-05-18T19:27:01.910" Title="Height of the prints are always larger" Tags="|marlin|creality-ender-3|ultimaker-cura|pla|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16285" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16283" CreationDate="2021-05-13T12:27:12.203" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Unless your gantry is extremely heavy, I don't think this will work. The Z motion system needs to not only lift, but to hold the nozzle rigidly at the desired distance from the bed/previous layer. Otherwise I would expect poor layer bonding and possibly even collisions between the nozzle and already-printed material, from slight variations in height where extrusion pushes back against gravity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2021-05-13T12:27:12.203" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16286" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6914" CreationDate="2021-05-13T13:15:00.020" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You just have to cut the filament at a 45° angle. Then push down the extruder and push the filament in. Then heat up the nozzle. Next, hand feed the filament until the filament starts oozing out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28355" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-05-13T22:06:48.760" LastActivityDate="2021-05-13T22:06:48.760" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16287" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-05-13T17:09:36.523" Score="0" ViewCount="470" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am printing ABS on an Ender 3 printer at a temperature of 240 °C on the nozzle and 110 °C on the bed. I am getting the following result:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FnLuQ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FnLuQ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any way I can fix this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28358" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-05-13T21:49:52.987" LastActivityDate="2022-09-09T15:03:06.067" Title="I am getting bubbles and a bulge at the bottom layer of my 3D print" Tags="|3d-models|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16288" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16282" CreationDate="2021-05-13T18:23:29.180" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The concept that relative humidity decreases with an air temperature increase runs consistent with the concept of using a food dehydrator to purge moisture from filament spools. As the filament heats up, energy is imparted to the water molecules within. The dryer air around the spool will accept the moisture and &amp;quot;distribute&amp;quot; it to the environment. A warmed enclosed chamber will not have much humidity to endanger the filament.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a Sigma R16 and have moved the spools to the outside of the enclosure, but I don't plan to print hygroscopic materials in the near future. I suppose I'd have to build some form of drying enclosure around the spools, particularly for nylon and PVA.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My Qidi3D X-Max has both internal and external spool mounts and it is recommended to use the internal mount for nylon, as even an hour's exposure to humidity can deteriorate print quality.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PLA is safe for days, ABS is safe for perhaps less, but PVA is not a good overnight exposure material and nylon is definitely an inside-the-box condition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suspect that having the filament inside your Sigma, especially if you plan to fully enclose it, is not going to be problematic. I created a front panel for my Sigma to reduce ABS warping and the internal temperatures reached 37 °C. That's warm enough to keep the water clear of the filament, unless you have an extremely humid environment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Before you add an additional heater, consider to place a perforated container of color-change desiccant inside the build chamber and observe over time the color change. Obviously when not printing, seal the desiccant from collecting non-test humidity, but I think you'll find it's pretty dry while you're printing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastActivityDate="2021-05-13T18:23:29.180" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16289" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16283" CreationDate="2021-05-14T08:40:37.203" Score="2" Body="&lt;h2&gt;That's a crane. Cranes are low constrained&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What you are proposing is a portal crane. Have you ever seen a container portal crane in operation?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Containers are strung up at the 4 corners and lifted from long cables. They move on their path because the container is super heavy and they have had years to finetune the acceleration profile. But the container sways and swings from side to side during airtime because the cables hang!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Only in a container lifter, where the container is carried by a gantry that is constrained on 4 corners &lt;strong&gt;and&lt;/strong&gt; very heavy to keep the cables tight and taunt at every moment, you get the needed constrainment, and now we are talking that the claw lifting the container weighs in the order of tons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Scaled-down to a printer, a napkin estimation of the gantry tells me that it would need to weigh in the order of about half a dozen kilos to ensure that nothing in the printer path could force the nozzle up - and the motors you need now are actually high power servos as you find them in heavy CNC equipment. However, that's for a conventional crane: the printhead hangs straight down, the mounting point of the crane is moving, and the high mass is to try and reduce swaying as we go really really slow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;extreme example of low constrainment: Hangprinter&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The same problem was present in the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S9vbJFpzeTQ&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;hangprinter&lt;/a&gt; - in the idea that is a free-floating gantry with little to no limitations. The main problem it faces is layer accuracy because of the length of the ropes. The suspension stretches as a factor of the length of them, making movement complicated, but solvable. By using polyester that has no real stretching and mounting the wires in a triangular fashion by three cables, the printer becomes self-stabilizing. But the free-floating makes it extremely vulnerable to imparted errors from outside, such as wind or just the building swaying. Also, its print volume is a cone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Constraining the gantry&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, we don't want to have a free-hanging gantry like a hangprinter. But now we need to constrain the gantry. With a quad of rods, that'd be enough, similar to how they are in the haulers on the ground in container harbors. That constrainment also reduces the needed weight to make it resilient to shifting, but the gantry still needs to be somewhat heavy to prevent the shifting weight to alter the balance - the gantry itself should be at least three times as heavy as the printhead to minimize the lifting cables stretching differently when the printhead moves left and right.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, the setup still suffers from some large downsides:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The smallest problem is the elongation of cables under stress. While this is dependant on the length of cable, so the lifting profile isn't exactly linear, the right material choice can fix this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A bigger problem is the diameter of the spool changing with the number of windings that the cable is coiled up over, adding more non-linearity, and this is hard to predict in the worst case. If one side gets its cable into the next layer while the other doesn't, this could force a tilting force onto the gantry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tilting forces of enough strength could, in the worst case, press the bearings in such a way against the rods that the result in a lock-up situation where the gantry isn't going anywhere. This could be solved with some engineering ingenuity and proper tolerancing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another problem is, that while constrained to the &lt;em&gt;down&lt;/em&gt; direction, the setup isn't constrained to the up direction, making it possible to push the gantry up to the top, but the weight will get it back to the print level again. However, such a bump might result in the force on the motor losing a few steps, giving us &lt;em&gt;layer shifting&lt;/em&gt; in the vertical. This is an outside-induced error though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To mitigate most, if not all of these problems, you would need to use cables in both directions (one to hoist, one to prevent lift), which basically makes this a continuous belt-attached gantry and mitigates any requirement for a heavy gantry to keep the cables stretched. A well-designed set of loops also would prevent tilt-locking the gantry as the cable can't get mis-wound - possibly even all driven by one motor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Mechanically linked setups&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What you are looking for are mechanically linked/synchronized Z-axis'. That actually can be done without needing pulleys. A single motor &lt;em&gt;can&lt;/em&gt; turn both leadscrews easily if it was connected to both with a proper motion train. Examples are using a chain and gears, or just a gear train using a horizontal axle and two pairs of angled gears to turn the leadscrews. Take a look into how heavy machinery synchronizes axis'.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to go with a pair of belt-loops, you could have a single motor turn an axle upon which the gears for both belts are mounted, resulting in synchronized movement of both belts and the required constrainment on both belts. An example using 4 belts is the machine mentioned by &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/16301/8884&quot;&gt;0scar&lt;/a&gt;. However, keep in mind that you want non-stretchy belts for this and to keep them tuned well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2021-05-17T08:58:21.847" LastActivityDate="2021-05-17T08:58:21.847" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16290" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15054" CreationDate="2021-05-14T13:22:53.887" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I find my Ender 3 Max has &amp;quot;phases&amp;quot; where each and every print will end in a thermal error, always at layer 2. During these phases, I disable retraction to keep the flow of filament constant through the hot end and into the nozzle. While my prints are a little messier than I would like, more often than not they actually finish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another thing that helps is to lower the initial bed temperature as much as possible, or even have it at room temperature (Max has a carborundum glass bed with blue tape over the top) and raise it as the hotend moves away from the bed. I feel that layer 2 is the &amp;quot;transition layer&amp;quot; where the hotend is no longer using the heat from the bed to maintain its temperature, so the controller lets it have a big burst of energy to compensate for any temperature variations and more often than not gives it too much, resulting in our beloved E1 error.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I may be wrong, but I would love to try a thermal camera to see if it's true!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28364" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2021-05-14T16:32:42.863" LastActivityDate="2021-05-14T16:32:42.863" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16291" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16283" CreationDate="2021-05-14T15:02:17.083" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have thought about this same type of problem before and my solution is to use CoreXZ!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let me explain. With CoreXY the effector (the thing that the hot end is on) moves on the X and Y axes. However, there is no reason why this solution can't be turned 90 degrees to stand vertically. Once paired with a normal Prusa/RepRap Y axis, you end up with CoreXZ (which is supported in Marlin already I believe). You eliminate 1 motor, and the mechanism is inherently sag proof, assuming it's been built properly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BwKFI.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BwKFI.png&quot; alt=&quot;Core XY Reference&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only downside is the gravity issue. If the gantry is too heavy, when the motors are turned off, the X will fall and slam into the print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This problem can be mitigated somewhat by:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Never turning off the motors until the bed has been moved out from under the gantry and the gantry has returned to the home position. If you want the home position to be at the top of the frame, then suitably sized magnets can be used to restrain the effector at the top as opposed to the bottom (some trial and error may be required).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use a counterweight on a pulley to offset the mass of the gantry.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use a constant force spring to ensure that the gantry always gets pulled upwards instead of falling downwards. (I once used constant force springs on a design. It gave an interesting and unexpected result. Instead of pulling the gantry upwards the slight variances in the pulling force resulted in the gantry twisting and then getting stuck. So instead of falling or rising the system just &amp;quot;magically&amp;quot; held in place. A happy accident.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PWipe.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PWipe.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Centry Spring, constant force springs&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use a &amp;quot;Double Pole Double Throw&amp;quot; relay to short circuit the phases of the stepper motors once the power or other control system has been turned off. When you short circuit a stepper motor, the back electromotive force makes the spindle much harder to turn (you should try this for yourself). You can use that effect to make a rudimentary braking system.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/R5Slb.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/R5Slb.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Double Pole Double Throw Relay&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lastly, make sure the linear rails you use are sticky. Less friction in this setup will allow the gantry to fall easier. Therefore using a linear rail solution that is both accurate enough and provides adjustable friction would help mitigate this problem.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/W7n7O.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/W7n7O.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;8020 Linear rail system&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12857" LastActivityDate="2021-05-14T15:02:17.083" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16293" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10345" CreationDate="2021-05-15T12:22:47.773" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found this and remember doing something similar on my TAZ 5 when I installed a proximity sensor on it.  See &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.antclabs.com/creality3d-board&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;BLTouch V3 on the Creality3D CR-10S Pro&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Creativity recommends connecting white and black lines to Z+ and&#xA;downloading the Creativity firmware.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The BLTouch V3.x is enough just to install the jumper cap on the&#xA;CR-10S Pro and it works well in Default(OD) and 5V Logic Mode.&#xA;(including Smart V3.0 produced by April 4th, 2019)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This solution is complete and safe. You do not need to remove the&#xA;capacity or add a pull-up resistor for the BLTouch installation in the&#xA;CR-10S Pro.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Cause of problem: When the inductive proximity sensor is removed from the Ribbon cable breakout adapter, 24V is kept at EL357N pin1&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Anode) through R8, so EL357N pin 4(Collector) is fixed LOW.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Solution: Install the Jumper cap between the Z-connector signal and  GND pin on the Ribbon cable breakout adapter.. It prevent the&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EL357N pin4(Collector) to fix LOW.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;How to install the jumper cap: Remove the inductive proximity sensor from the Ribbon cable breakout adapter for CR-10S PRO and&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;install the jumper cap as like the picture. This operation requires&#xA;caution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6W2oH.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Board&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6W2oH.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Board&quot; title=&quot;Board&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;※ Never install the Jumper cap between the Z-connector 24V pin and the&#xA;GND pin on the Ribbon cable breakout adapter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;CR-10S Pro Wiring:&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0XxDN.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Schematic&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0XxDN.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Schematic&quot; title=&quot;Schematic&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See Schematic. Using the 5V Logic Mode without the jumper cap&#xA;installation may break BLTouch or EL357N.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TToao.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Wiring&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TToao.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Wiring&quot; title=&quot;Wiring&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28381" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2021-05-15T14:44:07.040" LastActivityDate="2021-05-15T14:44:07.040" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16295" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-05-15T12:45:41.700" Score="1" ViewCount="147" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have installed V6 hotend (all metal) with a direct drive extruder on Ender 3. It flows alright when I push manually however, the print is severely under extruded and doesn't stick to the bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Things I have already tried:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Replaced the nozzle and the heat break however, the problem persists.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tried changing the filament. PETG wrecked the heat break. PLA doesn't print either.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Reduced the retracing to 0.3 mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cleaning the bed.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tOTJ1.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tOTJ1.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28383" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-05-15T13:30:44.230" LastActivityDate="2021-05-15T13:30:44.230" Title="Problem printing with V6 hotend on Creality Ender 3" Tags="|creality-ender-3|e3d-v6|direct-drive|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16297" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15966" CreationDate="2021-05-15T17:02:40.080" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Code from Celtic's &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/16116/4762&quot;&gt;answer&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;# generated by PrusaSlicer 2.3.0+win64 on 2021-04-17 at 15:16:02 UTC&#xA;&#xA;[print:BIQU B1 - Standard]&#xA;avoid_crossing_perimeters = 1&#xA;avoid_crossing_perimeters_max_detour = 75%&#xA;bottom_fill_pattern = monotonic&#xA;bottom_solid_layers = 4&#xA;bottom_solid_min_thickness = 0&#xA;bridge_acceleration = 0&#xA;bridge_angle = 0&#xA;bridge_flow_ratio = 1&#xA;bridge_speed = 50&#xA;brim_width = 0&#xA;clip_multipart_objects = 1&#xA;compatible_printers = &#xA;compatible_printers_condition = &#xA;complete_objects = 0&#xA;default_acceleration = 0&#xA;dont_support_bridges = 1&#xA;draft_shield = 0&#xA;elefant_foot_compensation = 0&#xA;ensure_vertical_shell_thickness = 0&#xA;external_perimeter_extrusion_width = 0&#xA;external_perimeter_speed = 50%&#xA;external_perimeters_first = 0&#xA;extra_perimeters = 1&#xA;extruder_clearance_height = 20&#xA;extruder_clearance_radius = 20&#xA;extrusion_width = 0.4&#xA;fill_angle = 45&#xA;fill_density = 20%&#xA;fill_pattern = cubic&#xA;first_layer_acceleration = 0&#xA;first_layer_extrusion_width = 0&#xA;first_layer_height = 0.28&#xA;first_layer_speed = 20&#xA;gap_fill_speed = 20&#xA;gcode_comments = 0&#xA;gcode_label_objects = 0&#xA;infill_acceleration = 0&#xA;infill_anchor = 600%&#xA;infill_anchor_max = 50&#xA;infill_every_layers = 1&#xA;infill_extruder = 1&#xA;infill_extrusion_width = 0.48&#xA;infill_first = 0&#xA;infill_only_where_needed = 0&#xA;infill_overlap = 30%&#xA;infill_speed = 60&#xA;inherits = &#xA;interface_shells = 0&#xA;ironing = 0&#xA;ironing_flowrate = 15%&#xA;ironing_spacing = 0.1&#xA;ironing_speed = 15&#xA;ironing_type = top&#xA;layer_height = 0.2&#xA;max_print_speed = 80&#xA;max_volumetric_speed = 0&#xA;min_skirt_length = 50&#xA;notes = &#xA;only_retract_when_crossing_perimeters = 1&#xA;ooze_prevention = 0&#xA;output_filename_format = [input_filename_base].gcode&#xA;overhangs = 1&#xA;perimeter_acceleration = 0&#xA;perimeter_extruder = 1&#xA;perimeter_extrusion_width = 0&#xA;perimeter_speed = 50&#xA;perimeters = 4&#xA;post_process = &#xA;print_settings_id = &#xA;raft_layers = 0&#xA;resolution = 0&#xA;seam_position = aligned&#xA;single_extruder_multi_material_priming = 1&#xA;skirt_distance = 5&#xA;skirt_height = 1&#xA;skirts = 1&#xA;slice_closing_radius = 0.049&#xA;small_perimeter_speed = 40%&#xA;solid_infill_below_area = 70&#xA;solid_infill_every_layers = 0&#xA;solid_infill_extruder = 1&#xA;solid_infill_extrusion_width = 0&#xA;solid_infill_speed = 50%&#xA;spiral_vase = 0&#xA;standby_temperature_delta = -5&#xA;support_material = 0&#xA;support_material_angle = 0&#xA;support_material_auto = 1&#xA;support_material_buildplate_only = 0&#xA;support_material_contact_distance = 0.2&#xA;support_material_enforce_layers = 0&#xA;support_material_extruder = 1&#xA;support_material_extrusion_width = 0.35&#xA;support_material_interface_contact_loops = 0&#xA;support_material_interface_extruder = 1&#xA;support_material_interface_layers = 3&#xA;support_material_interface_spacing = 0&#xA;support_material_interface_speed = 100%&#xA;support_material_pattern = rectilinear&#xA;support_material_spacing = 2.5&#xA;support_material_speed = 60&#xA;support_material_synchronize_layers = 0&#xA;support_material_threshold = 0&#xA;support_material_with_sheath = 1&#xA;support_material_xy_spacing = 50%&#xA;thin_walls = 0&#xA;threads = 24&#xA;top_fill_pattern = monotonic&#xA;top_infill_extrusion_width = 0&#xA;top_solid_infill_speed = 80%&#xA;top_solid_layers = 4&#xA;top_solid_min_thickness = 0&#xA;travel_speed = 150&#xA;wipe_tower = 0&#xA;wipe_tower_bridging = 10&#xA;wipe_tower_no_sparse_layers = 0&#xA;wipe_tower_rotation_angle = 0&#xA;wipe_tower_width = 60&#xA;wipe_tower_x = 180&#xA;wipe_tower_y = 140&#xA;xy_size_compensation = 0&#xA;&#xA;[filament:BIQU B1 - GSDT - PLA+ Silver]&#xA;bed_temperature = 50&#xA;bridge_fan_speed = 100&#xA;compatible_printers = &#xA;compatible_printers_condition = &#xA;compatible_prints = &#xA;compatible_prints_condition = &#xA;cooling = 1&#xA;disable_fan_first_layers = 1&#xA;end_filament_gcode = &amp;quot;; Filament-specific end gcode \n;END gcode for filament\n&amp;quot;&#xA;extrusion_multiplier = 1&#xA;fan_always_on = 1&#xA;fan_below_layer_time = 100&#xA;filament_colour = #8B8B8B&#xA;filament_cooling_final_speed = 3.4&#xA;filament_cooling_initial_speed = 2.2&#xA;filament_cooling_moves = 4&#xA;filament_cost = 1000&#xA;filament_density = 1.3&#xA;filament_deretract_speed = nil&#xA;filament_diameter = 1.75&#xA;filament_load_time = 0&#xA;filament_loading_speed = 28&#xA;filament_loading_speed_start = 3&#xA;filament_max_volumetric_speed = 0&#xA;filament_minimal_purge_on_wipe_tower = 15&#xA;filament_notes = &amp;quot;&amp;quot;&#xA;filament_ramming_parameters = &amp;quot;120 100 6.6 6.8 7.2 7.6 7.9 8.2 8.7 9.4 9.9 10.0| 0.05 6.6 0.45 6.8 0.95 7.8 1.45 8.3 1.95 9.7 2.45 10 2.95 7.6 3.45 7.6 3.95 7.6 4.45 7.6 4.95 7.6&amp;quot;&#xA;filament_retract_before_travel = nil&#xA;filament_retract_before_wipe = nil&#xA;filament_retract_layer_change = nil&#xA;filament_retract_length = nil&#xA;filament_retract_lift = nil&#xA;filament_retract_lift_above = nil&#xA;filament_retract_lift_below = nil&#xA;filament_retract_restart_extra = nil&#xA;filament_retract_speed = nil&#xA;filament_settings_id = &amp;quot;&amp;quot;&#xA;filament_soluble = 0&#xA;filament_spool_weight = 1000&#xA;filament_toolchange_delay = 0&#xA;filament_type = PLA&#xA;filament_unload_time = 0&#xA;filament_unloading_speed = 90&#xA;filament_unloading_speed_start = 100&#xA;filament_vendor = (Unknown)&#xA;filament_wipe = nil&#xA;first_layer_bed_temperature = 50&#xA;first_layer_temperature = 195&#xA;full_fan_speed_layer = 4&#xA;inherits = &#xA;max_fan_speed = 100&#xA;min_fan_speed = 100&#xA;min_print_speed = 10&#xA;slowdown_below_layer_time = 10&#xA;start_filament_gcode = &amp;quot;; Filament gcode\n&amp;quot;&#xA;temperature = 195&#xA;&#xA;[filament:BIQU B1 - PETG]&#xA;bed_temperature = 70&#xA;bridge_fan_speed = 35&#xA;compatible_printers = &#xA;compatible_printers_condition = &#xA;compatible_prints = &#xA;compatible_prints_condition = &#xA;cooling = 1&#xA;disable_fan_first_layers = 3&#xA;end_filament_gcode = &amp;quot;; Filament-specific end gcode \n;END gcode for filament\n&amp;quot;&#xA;extrusion_multiplier = 1&#xA;fan_always_on = 1&#xA;fan_below_layer_time = 100&#xA;filament_colour = #29B2B2&#xA;filament_cooling_final_speed = 3.4&#xA;filament_cooling_initial_speed = 2.2&#xA;filament_cooling_moves = 4&#xA;filament_cost = 0&#xA;filament_density = 0&#xA;filament_deretract_speed = nil&#xA;filament_diameter = 1.75&#xA;filament_load_time = 0&#xA;filament_loading_speed = 28&#xA;filament_loading_speed_start = 3&#xA;filament_max_volumetric_speed = 0&#xA;filament_minimal_purge_on_wipe_tower = 15&#xA;filament_notes = &amp;quot;&amp;quot;&#xA;filament_ramming_parameters = &amp;quot;120 100 6.6 6.8 7.2 7.6 7.9 8.2 8.7 9.4 9.9 10.0| 0.05 6.6 0.45 6.8 0.95 7.8 1.45 8.3 1.95 9.7 2.45 10 2.95 7.6 3.45 7.6 3.95 7.6 4.45 7.6 4.95 7.6&amp;quot;&#xA;filament_retract_before_travel = nil&#xA;filament_retract_before_wipe = nil&#xA;filament_retract_layer_change = nil&#xA;filament_retract_length = 4&#xA;filament_retract_lift = nil&#xA;filament_retract_lift_above = nil&#xA;filament_retract_lift_below = nil&#xA;filament_retract_restart_extra = nil&#xA;filament_retract_speed = nil&#xA;filament_settings_id = &amp;quot;&amp;quot;&#xA;filament_soluble = 0&#xA;filament_spool_weight = 0&#xA;filament_toolchange_delay = 0&#xA;filament_type = PET&#xA;filament_unload_time = 0&#xA;filament_unloading_speed = 90&#xA;filament_unloading_speed_start = 100&#xA;filament_vendor = (Unknown)&#xA;filament_wipe = nil&#xA;first_layer_bed_temperature = 75&#xA;first_layer_temperature = 235&#xA;full_fan_speed_layer = 0&#xA;inherits = &#xA;max_fan_speed = 35&#xA;min_fan_speed = 35&#xA;min_print_speed = 15&#xA;slowdown_below_layer_time = 20&#xA;start_filament_gcode = &amp;quot;; Filament gcode\n&amp;quot;&#xA;temperature = 235&#xA;&#xA;[printer:BIQU B1 (No Z Hop)]&#xA;bed_custom_model = &#xA;bed_custom_texture = &#xA;bed_shape = 0x0,235x0,235x235,0x235&#xA;before_layer_gcode = ;LAYER:[layer_num]&#xA;between_objects_gcode = &#xA;color_change_gcode = M600&#xA;cooling_tube_length = 5&#xA;cooling_tube_retraction = 91.5&#xA;default_filament_profile = &amp;quot;&amp;quot;&#xA;default_print_profile = &#xA;deretract_speed = 0&#xA;end_gcode = ;BIQU Default End Gcode\nG91 ;Relative positioning\nG1 E-2 F2700  ;Retract a bit\nG1 E-2 Z0.2 F2400  ;Retract a bit more and raise Z\nG1 X5 Y5 F3000 ;Wipe out\nG1 Z10;Raise Z by 10mm\nG90 ;Return to absolute positionning\nG1 X0 Y235  ;TaDaaaa\nM106 S0 ;Turn-off fan\nM104 S0 ;Turn-off hotend\nM140 S0 ;Turn-off bed\nM84 X Y E ;Disable all steppers but Z&#xA;extra_loading_move = -2&#xA;extruder_colour = &amp;quot;&amp;quot;&#xA;extruder_offset = 0x0&#xA;gcode_flavor = marlin&#xA;high_current_on_filament_swap = 0&#xA;host_type = octoprint&#xA;inherits = &#xA;layer_gcode = &#xA;machine_limits_usage = emit_to_gcode&#xA;machine_max_acceleration_e = 5000,5000&#xA;machine_max_acceleration_extruding = 500,1250&#xA;machine_max_acceleration_retracting = 1000,1250&#xA;machine_max_acceleration_x = 500,1000&#xA;machine_max_acceleration_y = 500,1000&#xA;machine_max_acceleration_z = 100,200&#xA;machine_max_feedrate_e = 75,120&#xA;machine_max_feedrate_x = 250,200&#xA;machine_max_feedrate_y = 250,200&#xA;machine_max_feedrate_z = 10,12&#xA;machine_max_jerk_e = 2.5,2.5&#xA;machine_max_jerk_x = 8,10&#xA;machine_max_jerk_y = 8,10&#xA;machine_max_jerk_z = 0.2,0.4&#xA;machine_min_extruding_rate = 0,0&#xA;machine_min_travel_rate = 0,0&#xA;max_layer_height = 0&#xA;max_print_height = 270&#xA;min_layer_height = 0.07&#xA;nozzle_diameter = 0.4&#xA;parking_pos_retraction = 92&#xA;pause_print_gcode = M601&#xA;print_host = &#xA;printer_model = &#xA;printer_notes = &#xA;printer_settings_id = &#xA;printer_technology = FFF&#xA;printer_variant = &#xA;printer_vendor = &#xA;printhost_apikey = &#xA;printhost_cafile = &#xA;remaining_times = 0&#xA;retract_before_travel = 1.5&#xA;retract_before_wipe = 0%&#xA;retract_layer_change = 0&#xA;retract_length = 7&#xA;retract_length_toolchange = 10&#xA;retract_lift = 0&#xA;retract_lift_above = 0&#xA;retract_lift_below = 0&#xA;retract_restart_extra = 0&#xA;retract_restart_extra_toolchange = 0&#xA;retract_speed = 70&#xA;silent_mode = 0&#xA;single_extruder_multi_material = 0&#xA;start_gcode = M220 S100 ;Reset Feedrate\nM221 S100 ;Reset Flowrate\nG28 ;Home\nG92 E0 ;Reset Extruder\nG1 Z2.0 F3000 ;Move Z Axis up\nM109 S{first_layer_temperature[0]}; Preheat hotend\nG1 X10.1 Y20 Z0.28 F5000.0 ;Move to start position\nG1 X10.1 Y200.0 Z0.28 F1500.0 E15 ;Draw the first line\nG1 X10.4 Y200.0 Z0.28 F5000.0 ;Move to side a little\nG1 X10.4 Y20 Z0.28 F1500.0 E30 ;Draw the second line\nG92 E0 ;Reset Extruder\nG1 Z2.0 F3000 ;Move Z Axis up&#xA;template_custom_gcode = &#xA;thumbnails = &#xA;toolchange_gcode = &#xA;use_firmware_retraction = 0&#xA;use_relative_e_distances = 0&#xA;use_volumetric_e = 0&#xA;variable_layer_height = 0&#xA;wipe = 0&#xA;z_offset = 0&#xA;&#xA;[printer:BIQU B1 (With Z Hop)]&#xA;bed_custom_model = &#xA;bed_custom_texture = &#xA;bed_shape = 0x0,235x0,235x235,0x235&#xA;before_layer_gcode = ;LAYER:[layer_num]&#xA;between_objects_gcode = &#xA;color_change_gcode = M600&#xA;cooling_tube_length = 5&#xA;cooling_tube_retraction = 91.5&#xA;default_filament_profile = &amp;quot;&amp;quot;&#xA;default_print_profile = &#xA;deretract_speed = 0&#xA;end_gcode = ;BIQU Default End Gcode\nG91 ;Relative positioning\nG1 E-2 F2700  ;Retract a bit\nG1 E-2 Z0.2 F2400  ;Retract a bit more and raise Z\nG1 X5 Y5 F3000 ;Wipe out\nG1 Z10;Raise Z by 10mm\nG90 ;Return to absolute positionning\nG1 X0 Y235  ;TaDaaaa\nM106 S0 ;Turn-off fan\nM104 S0 ;Turn-off hotend\nM140 S0 ;Turn-off bed\nM84 X Y E ;Disable all steppers but Z&#xA;extra_loading_move = -2&#xA;extruder_colour = &amp;quot;&amp;quot;&#xA;extruder_offset = 0x0&#xA;gcode_flavor = marlin&#xA;high_current_on_filament_swap = 0&#xA;host_type = octoprint&#xA;inherits = &#xA;layer_gcode = &#xA;machine_limits_usage = emit_to_gcode&#xA;machine_max_acceleration_e = 5000,5000&#xA;machine_max_acceleration_extruding = 500,1250&#xA;machine_max_acceleration_retracting = 1000,1250&#xA;machine_max_acceleration_x = 500,1000&#xA;machine_max_acceleration_y = 500,1000&#xA;machine_max_acceleration_z = 100,200&#xA;machine_max_feedrate_e = 75,120&#xA;machine_max_feedrate_x = 250,200&#xA;machine_max_feedrate_y = 250,200&#xA;machine_max_feedrate_z = 10,12&#xA;machine_max_jerk_e = 2.5,2.5&#xA;machine_max_jerk_x = 8,10&#xA;machine_max_jerk_y = 8,10&#xA;machine_max_jerk_z = 0.2,0.4&#xA;machine_min_extruding_rate = 0,0&#xA;machine_min_travel_rate = 0,0&#xA;max_layer_height = 0&#xA;max_print_height = 270&#xA;min_layer_height = 0.07&#xA;nozzle_diameter = 0.4&#xA;parking_pos_retraction = 92&#xA;pause_print_gcode = M601&#xA;print_host = &#xA;printer_model = &#xA;printer_notes = &#xA;printer_settings_id = &#xA;printer_technology = FFF&#xA;printer_variant = &#xA;printer_vendor = &#xA;printhost_apikey = &#xA;printhost_cafile = &#xA;remaining_times = 0&#xA;retract_before_travel = 1.5&#xA;retract_before_wipe = 0%&#xA;retract_layer_change = 0&#xA;retract_length = 7&#xA;retract_length_toolchange = 10&#xA;retract_lift = 1&#xA;retract_lift_above = 0&#xA;retract_lift_below = 0&#xA;retract_restart_extra = 0&#xA;retract_restart_extra_toolchange = 0&#xA;retract_speed = 70&#xA;silent_mode = 0&#xA;single_extruder_multi_material = 0&#xA;start_gcode = M220 S100 ;Reset Feedrate\nM221 S100 ;Reset Flowrate\nG28 ;Home\nG92 E0 ;Reset Extruder\nG1 Z2.0 F3000 ;Move Z Axis up\nM109 S{first_layer_temperature[0]}; Preheat hotend\nG1 X10.1 Y20 Z0.28 F5000.0 ;Move to start position\nG1 X10.1 Y200.0 Z0.28 F1500.0 E15 ;Draw the first line\nG1 X10.4 Y200.0 Z0.28 F5000.0 ;Move to side a little\nG1 X10.4 Y20 Z0.28 F1500.0 E30 ;Draw the second line\nG92 E0 ;Reset Extruder\nG1 Z2.0 F3000 ;Move Z Axis up&#xA;template_custom_gcode = &#xA;thumbnails = &#xA;toolchange_gcode = &#xA;use_firmware_retraction = 0&#xA;use_relative_e_distances = 0&#xA;use_volumetric_e = 0&#xA;variable_layer_height = 0&#xA;wipe = 0&#xA;z_offset = 0&#xA;&#xA;[printer:BIQU B1 Alpha v1]&#xA;bed_custom_model = &#xA;bed_custom_texture = &#xA;bed_shape = 0x0,235x0,235x235,0x235&#xA;before_layer_gcode = ;LAYER:[layer_num]&#xA;between_objects_gcode = &#xA;color_change_gcode = M600&#xA;cooling_tube_length = 5&#xA;cooling_tube_retraction = 91.5&#xA;default_filament_profile = &amp;quot;&amp;quot;&#xA;default_print_profile = &#xA;deretract_speed = 35&#xA;end_gcode = ;BIQU Default End Gcode\nG91 ;Relative positioning\nG1 E-2 F2700  ;Retract a bit\nG1 E-2 Z0.2 F2400  ;Retract a bit more and raise Z\nG1 X5 Y5 F3000 ;Wipe out\nG1 Z10;Raise Z by 10mm\nG90 ;Return to absolute positionning\nG1 X0 Y235  ;TaDaaaa\nM106 S0 ;Turn-off fan\nM104 S0 ;Turn-off hotend\nM140 S0 ;Turn-off bed\nM84 X Y E ;Disable all steppers but Z&#xA;extra_loading_move = -2&#xA;extruder_colour = &amp;quot;&amp;quot;&#xA;extruder_offset = 0x0&#xA;gcode_flavor = marlin&#xA;high_current_on_filament_swap = 0&#xA;host_type = octoprint&#xA;inherits = &#xA;layer_gcode = &#xA;machine_limits_usage = emit_to_gcode&#xA;machine_max_acceleration_e = 5000,5000&#xA;machine_max_acceleration_extruding = 500,1250&#xA;machine_max_acceleration_retracting = 1000,1250&#xA;machine_max_acceleration_x = 500,1000&#xA;machine_max_acceleration_y = 500,1000&#xA;machine_max_acceleration_z = 100,200&#xA;machine_max_feedrate_e = 75,120&#xA;machine_max_feedrate_x = 500,200&#xA;machine_max_feedrate_y = 500,200&#xA;machine_max_feedrate_z = 10,12&#xA;machine_max_jerk_e = 5,2.5&#xA;machine_max_jerk_x = 8,10&#xA;machine_max_jerk_y = 8,10&#xA;machine_max_jerk_z = 0.4,0.4&#xA;machine_min_extruding_rate = 0,0&#xA;machine_min_travel_rate = 0,0&#xA;max_layer_height = 0&#xA;max_print_height = 270&#xA;min_layer_height = 0.07&#xA;nozzle_diameter = 0.4&#xA;parking_pos_retraction = 92&#xA;pause_print_gcode = M601&#xA;print_host = &#xA;printer_model = &#xA;printer_notes = &#xA;printer_settings_id = &#xA;printer_technology = FFF&#xA;printer_variant = &#xA;printer_vendor = &#xA;printhost_apikey = &#xA;printhost_cafile = &#xA;remaining_times = 0&#xA;retract_before_travel = 1.5&#xA;retract_before_wipe = 0%&#xA;retract_layer_change = 0&#xA;retract_length = 3&#xA;retract_length_toolchange = 10&#xA;retract_lift = 0&#xA;retract_lift_above = 0&#xA;retract_lift_below = 0&#xA;retract_restart_extra = 0&#xA;retract_restart_extra_toolchange = 0&#xA;retract_speed = 70&#xA;silent_mode = 0&#xA;single_extruder_multi_material = 0&#xA;start_gcode = M220 S100 ;Reset Feedrate\nM221 S100 ;Reset Flowrate\nG28 ;Home\nG92 E0 ;Reset Extruder\nG1 Z2.0 F3000 ;Move Z Axis up\nM109 S{first_layer_temperature[0]}; Preheat hotend\nG1 X10.1 Y20 Z0.28 F5000.0 ;Move to start position\nG1 X10.1 Y200.0 Z0.28 F1500.0 E15 ;Draw the first line\nG1 X10.4 Y200.0 Z0.28 F5000.0 ;Move to side a little\nG1 X10.4 Y20 Z0.28 F1500.0 E30 ;Draw the second line\nG92 E0 ;Reset Extruder\nG1 Z2.0 F3000 ;Move Z Axis up&#xA;template_custom_gcode = &#xA;thumbnails = &#xA;toolchange_gcode = &#xA;use_firmware_retraction = 0&#xA;use_relative_e_distances = 0&#xA;use_volumetric_e = 0&#xA;variable_layer_height = 0&#xA;wipe = 0&#xA;z_offset = 0&#xA;&#xA;[printer:BIQU B1 Alpha v2]&#xA;bed_custom_model = &#xA;bed_custom_texture = &#xA;bed_shape = 0x0,235x0,235x235,0x235&#xA;before_layer_gcode = ;LAYER:[layer_num]&#xA;between_objects_gcode = &#xA;color_change_gcode = M600&#xA;cooling_tube_length = 5&#xA;cooling_tube_retraction = 91.5&#xA;default_filament_profile = &amp;quot;&amp;quot;&#xA;default_print_profile = &#xA;deretract_speed = 35&#xA;end_gcode = ;BIQU Default End Gcode\nG91 ;Relative positioning\nG1 E-2 F2700  ;Retract a bit\nG1 E-2 Z0.2 F2400  ;Retract a bit more and raise Z\nG1 X5 Y5 F3000 ;Wipe out\nG1 Z10;Raise Z by 10mm\nG90 ;Return to absolute positionning\nG1 X0 Y235  ;TaDaaaa\nM106 S0 ;Turn-off fan\nM104 S0 ;Turn-off hotend\nM140 S0 ;Turn-off bed\nM84 X Y E ;Disable all steppers but Z&#xA;extra_loading_move = -2&#xA;extruder_colour = &amp;quot;&amp;quot;&#xA;extruder_offset = 0x0&#xA;gcode_flavor = marlin&#xA;high_current_on_filament_swap = 0&#xA;host_type = octoprint&#xA;inherits = &#xA;layer_gcode = &#xA;machine_limits_usage = emit_to_gcode&#xA;machine_max_acceleration_e = 5000,5000&#xA;machine_max_acceleration_extruding = 500,1250&#xA;machine_max_acceleration_retracting = 1000,1250&#xA;machine_max_acceleration_x = 500,1000&#xA;machine_max_acceleration_y = 500,1000&#xA;machine_max_acceleration_z = 100,200&#xA;machine_max_feedrate_e = 75,120&#xA;machine_max_feedrate_x = 500,200&#xA;machine_max_feedrate_y = 500,200&#xA;machine_max_feedrate_z = 10,12&#xA;machine_max_jerk_e = 5,2.5&#xA;machine_max_jerk_x = 8,10&#xA;machine_max_jerk_y = 8,10&#xA;machine_max_jerk_z = 0.4,0.4&#xA;machine_min_extruding_rate = 0,0&#xA;machine_min_travel_rate = 0,0&#xA;max_layer_height = 0&#xA;max_print_height = 270&#xA;min_layer_height = 0.07&#xA;nozzle_diameter = 0.4&#xA;parking_pos_retraction = 92&#xA;pause_print_gcode = M601&#xA;print_host = &#xA;printer_model = &#xA;printer_notes = &#xA;printer_settings_id = &#xA;printer_technology = FFF&#xA;printer_variant = &#xA;printer_vendor = &#xA;printhost_apikey = &#xA;printhost_cafile = &#xA;remaining_times = 0&#xA;retract_before_travel = 1.5&#xA;retract_before_wipe = 0%&#xA;retract_layer_change = 0&#xA;retract_length = 7&#xA;retract_length_toolchange = 10&#xA;retract_lift = 0&#xA;retract_lift_above = 0&#xA;retract_lift_below = 0&#xA;retract_restart_extra = 0&#xA;retract_restart_extra_toolchange = 0&#xA;retract_speed = 70&#xA;silent_mode = 0&#xA;single_extruder_multi_material = 0&#xA;start_gcode = M220 S100 ;Reset Feedrate\nM221 S100 ;Reset Flowrate\nG28 ;Home\nG92 E0 ;Reset Extruder\nG1 Z2.0 F3000 ;Move Z Axis up\nM109 S{first_layer_temperature[0]}; Preheat hotend\nG1 X10.1 Y20 Z0.28 F5000.0 ;Move to start position\nG1 X10.1 Y200.0 Z0.28 F1500.0 E15 ;Draw the first line\nG1 X10.4 Y200.0 Z0.28 F5000.0 ;Move to side a little\nG1 X10.4 Y20 Z0.28 F1500.0 E30 ;Draw the second line\nG92 E0 ;Reset Extruder\nG1 Z2.0 F3000 ;Move Z Axis up&#xA;template_custom_gcode = &#xA;thumbnails = &#xA;toolchange_gcode = &#xA;use_firmware_retraction = 0&#xA;use_relative_e_distances = 0&#xA;use_volumetric_e = 0&#xA;variable_layer_height = 0&#xA;wipe = 0&#xA;z_offset = 0&#xA;&#xA;[printer:BIQU B1 Alpha v3]&#xA;bed_custom_model = &#xA;bed_custom_texture = &#xA;bed_shape = 0x0,235x0,235x235,0x235&#xA;before_layer_gcode = ;LAYER:[layer_num]&#xA;between_objects_gcode = &#xA;color_change_gcode = M600&#xA;cooling_tube_length = 5&#xA;cooling_tube_retraction = 91.5&#xA;default_filament_profile = &amp;quot;&amp;quot;&#xA;default_print_profile = &#xA;deretract_speed = 35&#xA;end_gcode = ;BIQU Default End Gcode\nG91 ;Relative positioning\nG1 E-2 F2700  ;Retract a bit\nG1 E-2 Z0.2 F2400  ;Retract a bit more and raise Z\nG1 X5 Y5 F3000 ;Wipe out\nG1 Z10;Raise Z by 10mm\nG90 ;Return to absolute positionning\nG1 X0 Y235  ;TaDaaaa\nM106 S0 ;Turn-off fan\nM104 S0 ;Turn-off hotend\nM140 S0 ;Turn-off bed\nM84 X Y E ;Disable all steppers but Z&#xA;extra_loading_move = -2&#xA;extruder_colour = &amp;quot;&amp;quot;&#xA;extruder_offset = 0x0&#xA;gcode_flavor = marlin&#xA;high_current_on_filament_swap = 0&#xA;host_type = octoprint&#xA;inherits = &#xA;layer_gcode = &#xA;machine_limits_usage = emit_to_gcode&#xA;machine_max_acceleration_e = 5000,5000&#xA;machine_max_acceleration_extruding = 500,1250&#xA;machine_max_acceleration_retracting = 1000,1250&#xA;machine_max_acceleration_x = 500,1000&#xA;machine_max_acceleration_y = 500,1000&#xA;machine_max_acceleration_z = 100,200&#xA;machine_max_feedrate_e = 75,120&#xA;machine_max_feedrate_x = 500,200&#xA;machine_max_feedrate_y = 500,200&#xA;machine_max_feedrate_z = 10,12&#xA;machine_max_jerk_e = 5,2.5&#xA;machine_max_jerk_x = 8,10&#xA;machine_max_jerk_y = 8,10&#xA;machine_max_jerk_z = 0.4,0.4&#xA;machine_min_extruding_rate = 0,0&#xA;machine_min_travel_rate = 0,0&#xA;max_layer_height = 0&#xA;max_print_height = 270&#xA;min_layer_height = 0.07&#xA;nozzle_diameter = 0.4&#xA;parking_pos_retraction = 92&#xA;pause_print_gcode = M601&#xA;print_host = &#xA;printer_model = &#xA;printer_notes = &#xA;printer_settings_id = &#xA;printer_technology = FFF&#xA;printer_variant = &#xA;printer_vendor = &#xA;printhost_apikey = &#xA;printhost_cafile = &#xA;remaining_times = 0&#xA;retract_before_travel = 1.5&#xA;retract_before_wipe = 0%&#xA;retract_layer_change = 0&#xA;retract_length = 4&#xA;retract_length_toolchange = 10&#xA;retract_lift = 0&#xA;retract_lift_above = 0&#xA;retract_lift_below = 0&#xA;retract_restart_extra = 0&#xA;retract_restart_extra_toolchange = 0&#xA;retract_speed = 70&#xA;silent_mode = 0&#xA;single_extruder_multi_material = 0&#xA;start_gcode = M220 S100 ;Reset Feedrate\nM221 S100 ;Reset Flowrate\nG28 ;Home\nG92 E0 ;Reset Extruder\nG1 Z2.0 F3000 ;Move Z Axis up\nM109 S{first_layer_temperature[0]}; Preheat hotend\nG1 X10.1 Y20 Z0.28 F5000.0 ;Move to start position\nG1 X10.1 Y200.0 Z0.28 F1500.0 E15 ;Draw the first line\nG1 X10.4 Y200.0 Z0.28 F5000.0 ;Move to side a little\nG1 X10.4 Y20 Z0.28 F1500.0 E30 ;Draw the second line\nG92 E0 ;Reset Extruder\nG1 Z2.0 F3000 ;Move Z Axis up&#xA;template_custom_gcode = &#xA;thumbnails = &#xA;toolchange_gcode = &#xA;use_firmware_retraction = 0&#xA;use_relative_e_distances = 0&#xA;use_volumetric_e = 0&#xA;variable_layer_height = 0&#xA;wipe = 0&#xA;z_offset = 0&#xA;&#xA;[printer:BIQU B1 Alpha v4]&#xA;bed_custom_model = &#xA;bed_custom_texture = &#xA;bed_shape = 0x0,235x0,235x235,0x235&#xA;before_layer_gcode = ;LAYER:[layer_num]&#xA;between_objects_gcode = &#xA;color_change_gcode = M600&#xA;cooling_tube_length = 5&#xA;cooling_tube_retraction = 91.5&#xA;default_filament_profile = &amp;quot;&amp;quot;&#xA;default_print_profile = &#xA;deretract_speed = 35&#xA;end_gcode = ;BIQU Default End Gcode\nG91 ;Relative positioning\nG1 E-2 F2700  ;Retract a bit\nG1 E-2 Z0.2 F2400  ;Retract a bit more and raise Z\nG1 X5 Y5 F3000 ;Wipe out\nG1 Z10;Raise Z by 10mm\nG90 ;Return to absolute positionning\nG1 X0 Y235  ;TaDaaaa\nM106 S0 ;Turn-off fan\nM104 S0 ;Turn-off hotend\nM140 S0 ;Turn-off bed\nM84 X Y E ;Disable all steppers but Z&#xA;extra_loading_move = -2&#xA;extruder_colour = &amp;quot;&amp;quot;&#xA;extruder_offset = 0x0&#xA;gcode_flavor = marlin&#xA;high_current_on_filament_swap = 0&#xA;host_type = octoprint&#xA;inherits = &#xA;layer_gcode = &#xA;machine_limits_usage = emit_to_gcode&#xA;machine_max_acceleration_e = 5000,5000&#xA;machine_max_acceleration_extruding = 500,1250&#xA;machine_max_acceleration_retracting = 1000,1250&#xA;machine_max_acceleration_x = 500,1000&#xA;machine_max_acceleration_y = 500,1000&#xA;machine_max_acceleration_z = 100,200&#xA;machine_max_feedrate_e = 75,120&#xA;machine_max_feedrate_x = 500,200&#xA;machine_max_feedrate_y = 500,200&#xA;machine_max_feedrate_z = 10,12&#xA;machine_max_jerk_e = 5,2.5&#xA;machine_max_jerk_x = 8,10&#xA;machine_max_jerk_y = 8,10&#xA;machine_max_jerk_z = 0.4,0.4&#xA;machine_min_extruding_rate = 0,0&#xA;machine_min_travel_rate = 0,0&#xA;max_layer_height = 0&#xA;max_print_height = 270&#xA;min_layer_height = 0.07&#xA;nozzle_diameter = 0.4&#xA;parking_pos_retraction = 92&#xA;pause_print_gcode = M601&#xA;print_host = &#xA;printer_model = &#xA;printer_notes = &#xA;printer_settings_id = &#xA;printer_technology = FFF&#xA;printer_variant = &#xA;printer_vendor = &#xA;printhost_apikey = &#xA;printhost_cafile = &#xA;remaining_times = 0&#xA;retract_before_travel = 1.5&#xA;retract_before_wipe = 0%&#xA;retract_layer_change = 0&#xA;retract_length = 4&#xA;retract_length_toolchange = 10&#xA;retract_lift = 0&#xA;retract_lift_above = 0&#xA;retract_lift_below = 0&#xA;retract_restart_extra = 0&#xA;retract_restart_extra_toolchange = 0&#xA;retract_speed = 70&#xA;silent_mode = 0&#xA;single_extruder_multi_material = 0&#xA;start_gcode = M220 S100 ;Reset Feedrate\nM221 S100 ;Reset Flowrate\nG28 ;Home\nG92 E0 ;Reset Extruder\nG1 Z2.0 F3000 ;Move Z Axis up\nM109 S{first_layer_temperature[0]}; Preheat hotend\nG1 X10.1 Y20 Z0.28 F5000.0 ;Move to start position\nG1 X10.1 Y200.0 Z0.28 F1500.0 E15 ;Draw the first line\nG1 X10.4 Y200.0 Z0.28 F5000.0 ;Move to side a little\nG1 X10.4 Y20 Z0.28 F1500.0 E30 ;Draw the second line\nG92 E0 ;Reset Extruder\nG1 Z2.0 F3000 ;Move Z Axis up&#xA;template_custom_gcode = &#xA;thumbnails = &#xA;toolchange_gcode = &#xA;use_firmware_retraction = 0&#xA;use_relative_e_distances = 0&#xA;use_volumetric_e = 0&#xA;variable_layer_height = 0&#xA;wipe = 0&#xA;z_offset = 0&#xA;&#xA;[printer:BIQU B1 Beta v1]&#xA;bed_custom_model = &#xA;bed_custom_texture = &#xA;bed_shape = 0x0,235x0,235x235,0x235&#xA;before_layer_gcode = ;LAYER:[layer_num]&#xA;between_objects_gcode = &#xA;color_change_gcode = M600&#xA;cooling_tube_length = 5&#xA;cooling_tube_retraction = 91.5&#xA;default_filament_profile = &amp;quot;&amp;quot;&#xA;default_print_profile = &#xA;deretract_speed = 0&#xA;end_gcode = ;BIQU Default End Gcode\nG91 ;Relative positioning\nG1 E-2 F2700  ;Retract a bit\nG1 E-2 Z0.2 F2400  ;Retract a bit more and raise Z\nG1 X5 Y5 F3000 ;Wipe out\nG1 Z10;Raise Z by 10mm\nG90 ;Return to absolute positionning\nG1 X0 Y235  ;TaDaaaa\nM106 S0 ;Turn-off fan\nM104 S0 ;Turn-off hotend\nM140 S0 ;Turn-off bed\nM84 X Y E ;Disable all steppers but Z&#xA;extra_loading_move = -2&#xA;extruder_colour = &amp;quot;&amp;quot;&#xA;extruder_offset = 0x0&#xA;gcode_flavor = marlin&#xA;high_current_on_filament_swap = 0&#xA;host_type = octoprint&#xA;inherits = &#xA;layer_gcode = &#xA;machine_limits_usage = emit_to_gcode&#xA;machine_max_acceleration_e = 5000,5000&#xA;machine_max_acceleration_extruding = 500,1250&#xA;machine_max_acceleration_retracting = 1000,1250&#xA;machine_max_acceleration_x = 500,1000&#xA;machine_max_acceleration_y = 500,1000&#xA;machine_max_acceleration_z = 100,200&#xA;machine_max_feedrate_e = 75,120&#xA;machine_max_feedrate_x = 250,200&#xA;machine_max_feedrate_y = 250,200&#xA;machine_max_feedrate_z = 10,12&#xA;machine_max_jerk_e = 2.5,2.5&#xA;machine_max_jerk_x = 8,10&#xA;machine_max_jerk_y = 8,10&#xA;machine_max_jerk_z = 0.2,0.4&#xA;machine_min_extruding_rate = 0,0&#xA;machine_min_travel_rate = 0,0&#xA;max_layer_height = 0&#xA;max_print_height = 270&#xA;min_layer_height = 0.07&#xA;nozzle_diameter = 0.4&#xA;parking_pos_retraction = 92&#xA;pause_print_gcode = M601&#xA;print_host = &#xA;printer_model = &#xA;printer_notes = &#xA;printer_settings_id = &#xA;printer_technology = FFF&#xA;printer_variant = &#xA;printer_vendor = &#xA;printhost_apikey = &#xA;printhost_cafile = &#xA;remaining_times = 0&#xA;retract_before_travel = 1.5&#xA;retract_before_wipe = 0%&#xA;retract_layer_change = 0&#xA;retract_length = 7&#xA;retract_length_toolchange = 10&#xA;retract_lift = 0&#xA;retract_lift_above = 0&#xA;retract_lift_below = 0&#xA;retract_restart_extra = 0&#xA;retract_restart_extra_toolchange = 0&#xA;retract_speed = 70&#xA;silent_mode = 0&#xA;single_extruder_multi_material = 0&#xA;start_gcode = M220 S100 ;Reset Feedrate\nM221 S100 ;Reset Flowrate\nG28 ;Home\nG92 E0 ;Reset Extruder\nG1 Z2.0 F3000 ;Move Z Axis up\nM109 S{first_layer_temperature[0]}; Preheat hotend\nG1 X10.1 Y20 Z0.28 F5000.0 ;Move to start position\nG1 X10.1 Y200.0 Z0.28 F1500.0 E15 ;Draw the first line\nG1 X10.4 Y200.0 Z0.28 F5000.0 ;Move to side a little\nG1 X10.4 Y20 Z0.28 F1500.0 E30 ;Draw the second line\nG92 E0 ;Reset Extruder\nG1 Z2.0 F3000 ;Move Z Axis up&#xA;template_custom_gcode = &#xA;thumbnails = &#xA;toolchange_gcode = &#xA;use_firmware_retraction = 0&#xA;use_relative_e_distances = 0&#xA;use_volumetric_e = 0&#xA;variable_layer_height = 0&#xA;wipe = 0&#xA;z_offset = 0&#xA;&#xA;[printer:BIQU B1 Beta v2]&#xA;bed_custom_model = &#xA;bed_custom_texture = &#xA;bed_shape = 0x0,235x0,235x235,0x235&#xA;before_layer_gcode = ;LAYER:[layer_num]&#xA;between_objects_gcode = &#xA;color_change_gcode = M600&#xA;cooling_tube_length = 5&#xA;cooling_tube_retraction = 91.5&#xA;default_filament_profile = &amp;quot;&amp;quot;&#xA;default_print_profile = &#xA;deretract_speed = 0&#xA;end_gcode = ;BIQU Default End Gcode\nG91 ;Relative positioning\nG1 E-2 F2700  ;Retract a bit\nG1 E-2 Z0.2 F2400  ;Retract a bit more and raise Z\nG1 X5 Y5 F3000 ;Wipe out\nG1 Z10;Raise Z by 10mm\nG90 ;Return to absolute positionning\nG1 X0 Y235  ;TaDaaaa\nM106 S0 ;Turn-off fan\nM104 S0 ;Turn-off hotend\nM140 S0 ;Turn-off bed\nM84 X Y E ;Disable all steppers but Z&#xA;extra_loading_move = -2&#xA;extruder_colour = &amp;quot;&amp;quot;&#xA;extruder_offset = 0x0&#xA;gcode_flavor = marlin&#xA;high_current_on_filament_swap = 0&#xA;host_type = octoprint&#xA;inherits = &#xA;layer_gcode = &#xA;machine_limits_usage = emit_to_gcode&#xA;machine_max_acceleration_e = 5000,5000&#xA;machine_max_acceleration_extruding = 500,1250&#xA;machine_max_acceleration_retracting = 1000,1250&#xA;machine_max_acceleration_x = 500,1000&#xA;machine_max_acceleration_y = 500,1000&#xA;machine_max_acceleration_z = 100,200&#xA;machine_max_feedrate_e = 75,120&#xA;machine_max_feedrate_x = 250,200&#xA;machine_max_feedrate_y = 250,200&#xA;machine_max_feedrate_z = 10,12&#xA;machine_max_jerk_e = 2.5,2.5&#xA;machine_max_jerk_x = 8,10&#xA;machine_max_jerk_y = 8,10&#xA;machine_max_jerk_z = 0.2,0.4&#xA;machine_min_extruding_rate = 0,0&#xA;machine_min_travel_rate = 0,0&#xA;max_layer_height = 0&#xA;max_print_height = 270&#xA;min_layer_height = 0.07&#xA;nozzle_diameter = 0.4&#xA;parking_pos_retraction = 92&#xA;pause_print_gcode = M601&#xA;print_host = &#xA;printer_model = &#xA;printer_notes = &#xA;printer_settings_id = &#xA;printer_technology = FFF&#xA;printer_variant = &#xA;printer_vendor = &#xA;printhost_apikey = &#xA;printhost_cafile = &#xA;remaining_times = 0&#xA;retract_before_travel = 1.5&#xA;retract_before_wipe = 0%&#xA;retract_layer_change = 0&#xA;retract_length = 7.5&#xA;retract_length_toolchange = 10&#xA;retract_lift = 0.5&#xA;retract_lift_above = 0&#xA;retract_lift_below = 0&#xA;retract_restart_extra = 0&#xA;retract_restart_extra_toolchange = 0&#xA;retract_speed = 70&#xA;silent_mode = 0&#xA;single_extruder_multi_material = 0&#xA;start_gcode = M220 S100 ;Reset Feedrate\nM221 S100 ;Reset Flowrate\nG28 ;Home\nG92 E0 ;Reset Extruder\nG1 Z2.0 F3000 ;Move Z Axis up\nM109 S{first_layer_temperature[0]}; Preheat hotend\nG1 X10.1 Y20 Z0.28 F5000.0 ;Move to start position\nG1 X10.1 Y200.0 Z0.28 F1500.0 E15 ;Draw the first line\nG1 X10.4 Y200.0 Z0.28 F5000.0 ;Move to side a little\nG1 X10.4 Y20 Z0.28 F1500.0 E30 ;Draw the second line\nG92 E0 ;Reset Extruder\nG1 Z2.0 F3000 ;Move Z Axis up&#xA;template_custom_gcode = &#xA;thumbnails = &#xA;toolchange_gcode = &#xA;use_firmware_retraction = 0&#xA;use_relative_e_distances = 0&#xA;use_volumetric_e = 0&#xA;variable_layer_height = 0&#xA;wipe = 0&#xA;z_offset = 0&#xA;&#xA;[presets]&#xA;print = BIQU B1 - Standard&#xA;sla_print = &#xA;sla_material = &#xA;printer = BIQU B1 (With Z Hop)&#xA;filament = BIQU B1 - GSDT - PLA+ Silver&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4762" LastActivityDate="2021-05-15T17:02:40.080" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2021-05-15T17:02:40.080" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16298" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17919" CreationDate="2021-05-16T07:48:06.660" Score="2" ViewCount="1544" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a BLTouch clone (3DTouch) on my printer (Artillery Sidewinder X1). I installed it on the printer ages ago and has been working fine since. Recently, I did a BTT smart filament sensor upgrade.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I updated and edited both the Marlin firmware and the MKS TFT28 screen firmware to get it to work with the smart filament sensor. The filament sensor runs through the screen not the motherboard so it is enabled in screen firmware instead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The sensor works fine and every other part of the printer is fine as well, except that after the BLTouch does a &lt;code&gt;G29&lt;/code&gt; (I have it do that before every print in my start G-code, followed by an &lt;code&gt;M500&lt;/code&gt;), It will not adjust the Z-axis to compensate for the unevenness of the bed. I can see the Z motors not move and I cannot feel the lead screws rotate in my hand if I touch my hand against them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have been through several other forums, videos, etc. on the internet but none of them have the same problem as me and/or their solutions do not fix the problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have also tried flashing the display with the original firmware, which did not work so I guess is that I have something wrong with the firmware.&#xA;I have checked and double-checked my firmware but maybe there is something I missed or do not know about that could be causing my problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Firmware can be found &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/Smartich0ke/Artillery-Sidewinder-X1-firmware&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;I have tried running the original firmware with changes only made to enable the BLTouch. The Z-axis does still not compensate.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;I have also replaced the mainboard. I don’t know if that could affect the operation or not.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Recently, I needed to print a part so I put the default Marlin firmware using the Artillery SWX1 example in Marlin's collection of examples with modifications made only to work with the BLTouch. I can post this copy of the firmware but it is probably identical to the GitHub repo below. This way I could just print with no Z compensation, however, now whenever I try to home the printer or do a &lt;code&gt;G29&lt;/code&gt;, the BLTouch doesn't deploy and it will crash into the bed. I posted an unlisted video on YouTube demonstrating the issue &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lyyazOalsc8&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;. Also note that in the video, I attempt to move the Z-axis by 1 mm, but instead, the stepper motors spin at full speed and the gantry comes zooming towards the bed.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;I tried flashing the firmware yet again and for some reason, the BLTouch worked. it could home is and to a probing routine. I have been using the printer without the compensation and it works fine but it is really bizarre that this is happening. I know it is unlikely to solve the problem, but I am thinking of purchasing a replacement BLTouch. They are only 20 bucks to replace and I did accidental slightly bend the plastic probe before the Z stopped compensating. So is it possible the BLTouch is cactus?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;So recently, I noticed when running a G29 T through Octoprint or Pronterface, etc. that the printer will return a set of numbers for each probing point. Does this indicate that the BLTouch has taken the measurements but the printer will not use them to compensate the bed?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have tried all the answers below.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23583" LastEditorUserId="23583" LastEditDate="2021-08-13T06:19:10.720" LastActivityDate="2022-02-26T00:06:57.187" Title="BLTouch type sensor Z not compensating" Tags="|z-axis|bltouch|z-probe|3dtouch|artillery-sidewinder-x1|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16299" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-05-16T16:19:03.050" Score="8" ViewCount="5916" Body="&lt;p&gt;I picked up some no-name &amp;quot;silk&amp;quot; PLA in a multi color pack as part of a project where I needed some additional distinct colors and structural properties didn't matter, but now I'm playing with the excess I'm not using for that, and its behavior is really weird. On overhangs with detail on the downward-facing surface it's like everything flowed/melted together rather than retaining the extruded shape. And on vertical surfaces where one would expect to see layer lines, the lines are present and can be felt and slightly seen, but don't seem to contibute to the sheen/reflective properties like how they would in normal PLA or other materials. Together these observations make me suspect there's an additive that melts to a state where it flows much more than the base PLA at PLA printing temperatures, coalescing into more of a uniform smooth surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are the likely additives in &amp;quot;silk PLA&amp;quot; filaments, and what printing/mechanical properties should we expect from them?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some further observations: pushing it out of the hotend by hand, it has &lt;em&gt;a lot&lt;/em&gt; of die swell, almost up to the original 1.75 mm diameter, and if tension is released it tries to retreat back into the nozzle. This suggests to me there might be some sort of foaming type additive involved, and also explains the behavior on overhangs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2022-02-05T10:41:15.853" LastActivityDate="2022-05-05T05:35:24.000" Title="What is &quot;silk PLA&quot;?" Tags="|pla|filament|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16300" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9973" CreationDate="2021-05-16T16:51:21.667" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had the same exact issue, you have to make sure all of your printer is leveled, start with the base, than the poles that hold your x axis gantry. there are numerous youtube videos on how to do that.. make sure it's all leveled and try again.. this tip helped a few people already&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23647" LastActivityDate="2021-05-16T16:51:21.667" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16301" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16283" CreationDate="2021-05-16T17:06:03.057" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This concept already exists, it is e.g. found in some high quality 3D printers. Instead of a winch, a belt system (of several belts) is used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An interesting point from &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/16289/8884&quot;&gt;this answer&lt;/a&gt; already mentions that a winch isn't a good mechanism to lower/raise the gantry; if the cables are wound over each other the diameter of the wound cables will get larger and thus the movement. This could be circumvented by creating a push pull system and very few windings on the winch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But, this concept already has been worked out in the &lt;a href=&quot;https://vorondesign.com/voron2.4&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;VORON 2.4 printer&lt;/a&gt; design. This design is based on the work of a group of engineers and is considered to be a high quality printer that is also suitable for professional use. From the following image you can see (on the right side) a belt. This design uses 4 linear rails to support and guide the bed and 4 belts to drive the whole CoreXY gantry up and down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/w9eqZ.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/w9eqZ.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, a winch will not work, but the type of suspension already exists and is in use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With respect to the i3 style printers and the free gantry movement the following is from my own experience.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;I've build several i3 style printers of which my latest 2 where all having a freely moving gantry upwards as I decoupled the lead screw from the X mounts. The lead screw nuts simply push the gantry up as they are embedded in a separate part; gravity will pull the gantry down. The mass of the guide rods, a stepper motor and the hotend provide enough mass to pull it down. I've had excellent results with these printers, e.g. mentioned in &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/16285/&quot;&gt;this answer&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;poor layer bonding and possibly even collisions between the nozzle and already-printed material, from slight variations in height where extrusion pushes back against gravity&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;is not encountered. The following images give an impression of the lifting device:&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9B8cMm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9B8cMm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PGu4Mm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PGu4Mm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2021-05-16T22:03:16.810" LastActivityDate="2021-05-16T22:03:16.810" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16302" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16227" CreationDate="2021-05-16T18:35:36.733" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In some cases, you can remove sharp edges in the CAD model before printing.  Outside corners can be rounded, inside corners can be filleted.  This also can strengthen the part in some cases.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Older printers and software did not handle corners well, and so accidentally rounded corners.  Newer printers that use controlled acceleration can make much sharper corners, so old or simple CAD models may not take that into account and may include unintended sharp edges.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28397" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-05-16T21:41:51.773" LastActivityDate="2021-05-16T21:41:51.773" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16303" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-05-17T05:32:58.747" Score="0" ViewCount="785" Body="&lt;p&gt;The issue I'm having is that the extruder motor is not spinning fast enough so the filament doesn't come out as fast as I would like it to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In terms of the specs, the printer is an Ender 5 that has the Creality V1.1.4 8-bit motherboard in it. The only issue I need to fix is the rpm of the motor (Nema 17 stepper motor) because it doesn't spin fast enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have tried changing the feed-rate settings in the Marlin firmware code but that didn't fix the problem. I found this video yesterday where a guy said that you have to change the steps per unit value in the code which depends on the micro-stepping value that's set for the stepper driver in the motherboard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I don't know how to check or change this driver value so I searched up and found that usually for the A4988 drivers which are in the 1.1.4 board they're set to 1/16th micro-stepping. Online it says for 1/16th micro-stepping you need to change the extruder steps per mm value to 409 (rough estimate) in the marlin code (it was 93 before so I am wondering if changing this value would increase motor speed).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know if this is a software issue or if it's because the stepper motor just isn't getting enough current due to the 8-bit board so if I swapped out the 8-bit board with a 32-bit board can I change the motor speed by increasing the amount of current that is sent to the stepper motor? Or does the board not really matter?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sorry if the details aren't clear or something I said doesn't make sense as I am new to this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28402" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2021-05-17T06:53:07.850" LastActivityDate="2022-02-15T02:06:25.547" Title="Ender 5 with 8-bit Creality 1.1.4 board- Issue with speed of extruder motor spinning too slow" Tags="|marlin|extruder|motor|creality-ender-5|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16304" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-05-17T10:51:56.520" Score="1" ViewCount="613" Body="&lt;p&gt;I come through this post, rescue a problem with my printer. It uses Arduino 2560 Mega, RAMPS 1.4, and Marlin 1.1.9, which had configured it left it working as follows: on the RAMPS the Y-axis is connected to the Z-axis pins, as it has two stepper motors on the Y-axis and the Z-axis is connected to the pins of E1.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did all the basic and necessary configurations in the firmware and sent it to the Arduino, eliminating the previous configuration, so that I can configure the steps of the motor correctly, as they were out of calibration. Before the reset, the motors moved to both sides, positive and negative. However, when I sent the firmware to the Arduino, I can only rotate the motors on all axes only to one side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the printer display, I go to the option to move the axis, rotate it 10 mm and the axis moves. However when I move it backwards, it does not come back, it is stopped. This happens with all the axes after I did the reset. Is there any way to configure the rotation of the motors by the firmware in relation to pins A1, A2, B1, and B2 in the same way that the axis change on the RAMPS was configured?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I apologize for the mistakes, I speak Portuguese and I used a translator.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;I executed the command &lt;code&gt;M119&lt;/code&gt; on the console of the Marlin IDE and the printer did nothing, it is correctly connected to the PC via the USB cable&#xA;this appeared on the console screen:&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;x_min: TRIGGERED&#xA;y_min: TRIGGERED&#xA;z_min: open&#xA;ok&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28405" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-05-20T12:25:25.917" LastActivityDate="2023-02-04T23:32:06.103" Title="Stepper motor moving only to one side after reset" Tags="|marlin|firmware|stepper|axis|ramps|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16306" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16299" CreationDate="2021-05-17T14:22:21.003" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It has additives to the PLA to change its characteristics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Typically, “silk” filaments are enhanced PLA filaments, owing their glossy result to various additives. As such, they tend to show most of the same pros and cons of PLA filament. In the case where silk filaments have a different base, these would be expected to have similar properties to the base material. For this article, we’ll focus mostly on PLA-based silk filaments.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;-- &lt;a href=&quot;https://all3dp.com/2/silk-3d-printing-filament-brands-compared/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Silk PLA Filament: Best Brands&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The article goes on to say that this does modify how the material prints and thus may need different parameters on your printer from normal PLA.  You can get silk PLA in different brands.  There doesn't seem to be a standard composition, so each brand may behave differently.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15075" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2022-05-04T22:35:47.667" LastActivityDate="2022-05-04T22:35:47.667" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16307" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16299" CreationDate="2021-05-17T14:25:24.700" Score="5" Body="&lt;h1&gt;Silk PLA is a descriptor&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Silk PLA is a description of how the PLA looks. It is a separation from Glossy and Matte that is taken over from paints: Gloss, Silk, and Matte are the three general types any paint can come in, indicating different reflectiveness of high, intermediate, and low respectively.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a result, Silk-PLA is designed in such a way to get some sheen without looking all shiny/glossy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most PLAs are modified with various additives anyway to achieve good printing or specific looks, silk PLAs use theirs to get the sheen often attributed to silk. A common additive that gets a nice sheen in paints is Mica, but most PLAs are made silky-shiny by adding a slight bit of various TPE - Elastomers. That is not one but a whole group of materials that is added!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a result of being a polymer mixed with additives, you need to tune for each material, brand and color combination anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Further reading&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/4982/what-is-pla-how-is-it-different-from-pla&quot;&gt;What is PLA+? How is it different from PLA?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/q/13913/8884&quot;&gt;How to find pure PLA filament?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2022-05-05T05:35:24.000" LastActivityDate="2022-05-05T05:35:24.000" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16308" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-05-17T22:53:19.370" Score="0" ViewCount="528" Body="&lt;p&gt;I broke 2 keys (i.e. left ctrl, enter) on my Asus UX31A laptop and it seems that this model is too old to find replacement keys.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any way I can find a 3D model of the needed keys to have them 3D printed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do not have a printer nor I have any experience in this field.&#xA;What I need is either someone that has models for these or that can point me where I can find such models.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28420" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-05-18T04:34:15.687" LastActivityDate="2021-05-18T14:10:00.713" Title="Laptop keycaps for Asus UX31A" Tags="|3d-models|repair|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16309" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16308" CreationDate="2021-05-18T00:09:52.847" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is more off-topic as an answer, but serves as a possible solution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Replacementlaptopkeys.com is a resource that appears to have keycaps for the model you've noted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.replacementlaptopkeys.com/asus-zenbook-ux31a-db71-laptop-keys-replacement-dark-brown-black/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.replacementlaptopkeys.com/asus-zenbook-ux31a-db71-laptop-keys-replacement-dark-brown-black/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At seven dollars a key, it's going to be less expensive than 3D printing to accomplish your objective.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you owned a 3D printer, it would not be less expensive to purchase, but the work involved would increase your cost to have such keys commissioned. As a 3D printed object, the strength is going to be less than a keycap purchased from the linked site.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastActivityDate="2021-05-18T00:09:52.847" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16310" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16308" CreationDate="2021-05-18T14:10:00.713" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You're better off if you can get the key from Fred's link.  I was impressed by the detail of a 3D-printed battery cover for electronic calipers, but I'm sure it took much work to get it right.  Also, ebay has keyboards for your model.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15075" LastActivityDate="2021-05-18T14:10:00.713" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16311" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-05-18T16:01:02.990" Score="2" ViewCount="2384" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 3D printer, which wasn't used for a longer time. There is a nozzle, but don't know what diameter is it. I used several widths - from 0.2 to 0.8, switched them depending on my needs, but don't remember which one was used lately.&#xA;The nozzle is a little bit worn down, so the diameter on the side is not visible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How to get the nozzle diameter, without taking it off the printer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is more of a theoretical question, because I can simply swap the nozzle, but still - eager to know.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28431" LastActivityDate="2023-12-06T14:55:59.147" Title="How to determine width of the nozzle, that is already installed on the printer?" Tags="|nozzle|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16312" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16311" CreationDate="2021-05-18T18:20:15.363" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The best method is to have a scale on your microscope that looks like a ruler drawn in the optical path.  However I usually visually compare an unknown nozzle with known nozzles under a microscope.  If you don't have a microscope, you can get USB otoscope cameras (15mm focal length for looking in ears) for under $20.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can get a fairly good idea of the size by telling the printer to extrude in air then measure the extrusion diameter with calipers.  Of course, it's better if you can compare with a known nozzle.  If you push the filament through by hand, the extrusion will be too thick.  With the stepper motor extruding, I measure the extrusion diameters between 0.3 and 0.5 mm on a 0.4 mm nozzle.  Low cost calipers are less than $20.  The main different with the low cost calipers is the slides are not smooth, reducing the accuracy in the 0.01 mm place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15075" LastEditorUserId="15075" LastEditDate="2021-05-19T12:47:28.680" LastActivityDate="2021-05-19T12:47:28.680" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16313" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16284" CreationDate="2021-05-18T19:27:01.910" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since nobody had any idea what cause the problem, I investigated for a full week.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem is related to &lt;strong&gt;Fade Height&lt;/strong&gt; and .... a &lt;strong&gt;warp bed&lt;/strong&gt;, since I have ABL (Auto Bed Levelling) and Fade Height enable. The compensation was way too big, something like -1.4 or bigger.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, after I bought a new glass bed and set the fade height to 0 the problem is gone and the prints are looking normal, like -.2 mm or -.3mm in heights.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28354" LastActivityDate="2021-05-18T19:27:01.910" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16314" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16316" CreationDate="2021-05-18T20:07:42.980" Score="0" ViewCount="93" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I wanted to print a 3D parabola, with a radius of 15 cm and a height of 4 cm.  I've told this company, they told me that they need 3.5 days and its price will be 147 USA dollars and 50 cents.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I just want to know what is the average price for this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27897" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-05-18T22:11:30.317" LastActivityDate="2021-05-19T07:00:01.817" Title="What is average price for 3D parabola?" Tags="|diy-3d-printer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16316" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16314" CreationDate="2021-05-19T07:00:01.817" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The price dependss roughly on material, machine hours, operator labour, profit and administrative overhead.&#xA;Some companies deduce the operator labour, machine hours and overhead to roughly 10 times the material cost. I think that is kind of fair. In your case I assume that you use PLA, the perabola is hollow (just a flat surface) and the company needs to construct the 3D model the parabola to a specific tolerance.&#xA;this model in PLA should not cost more than \$5 in filament, so about $ 50 should be an okay price for your parabola. The total price of \$147 leaves about \$97 for modeling the parabola. I think that's fair, given that a non-mathician has to find a way to construct a model and test the results.&#xA;If, for example, you want a metal print and you provide the 3D model I find the price of \$147 to be very normal. These metal printers are very expensive, labour intensive and eat up energy.&#xA;You can get instant quotes at the following sites: &lt;a href=&quot;https://xometry.eu/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://xometry.eu/&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;https://formalize-am.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://formalize-am.com/&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;All above is just my best guess, given the data you provided. Expect a better answer when you provide more data.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4708" LastActivityDate="2021-05-19T07:00:01.817" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16317" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16311" CreationDate="2021-05-19T07:06:16.750" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would find some wires (piano wire, CAT5 copper, paperclip, nozzle unclogger, etc. ) and choose one that should fit the nozzle (eg. a 0.5 mm copper wire will fit a 0.8 mm nozzle) and push them into the nozzle. Heat them up a bit to soften the filament in the nozzle and brush with a metal wire brush to easily clean it up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4708" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-05-19T07:15:33.953" LastActivityDate="2021-05-19T07:15:33.953" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16318" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16311" CreationDate="2021-05-19T13:58:42.767" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Extrude some filament, let it hit the desk or whatever surface the printer is resting on; but not the bed as it may be too close. The initial filament will form a coil. After extrusion stops measure the straight part of the extruded filament as close to the coil as possible. This will give you the true current nozzle diameter. (Edit: I mean measure with a micrometer)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just as ancillary info, the nozzle diameter increases as the filament is passed through it. This is called nozzle wear, and since the diameter is changing the quality of your prints is going to drift. If you have a brass nozzle then after every spool of filament, you should reverify your nozzle diameter. Steel or other hardened nozzles would be much more resilient.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12857" LastEditorUserId="12857" LastEditDate="2021-05-19T17:07:42.367" LastActivityDate="2021-05-19T17:07:42.367" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16319" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16271" CreationDate="2021-05-19T16:57:23.770" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Thank you for all your answers! After many failed benchies I fixed the problem now, however I don't know exactly what the problem was so I'll list everything I did:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Dried my filament&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Recalibrated the Z-Offset&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Turned around my print bed, as I noticed the warp always starts at a&#xA;certain spot&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The high temperature is actually a recommendation by the manufacturer (PM Filaments).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28293" LastActivityDate="2021-05-19T16:57:23.770" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16320" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-05-19T18:38:10.900" Score="4" ViewCount="1928" Body="&lt;p&gt;My Ender 3 just started having this problem a couple of months ago. Prior to that the amount of excess filament showing up on the hotend was &lt;strong&gt;very&lt;/strong&gt; minimal, but now it is oozing so much out of the top of the metal hotend, that it is hardening on my prints and hitting my extruder. How did this happen? and what can I do to fix this problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.creality3dofficial.com/products/assembled-extruder&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;This&lt;/a&gt; is the hotend I have, a detailed image of my hotend is shown below:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BjeBX.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BjeBX.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RTDra.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RTDra.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;The part of the hotend that I think is oozing is highlighted in purple/blue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is the actual Image&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/M6C24.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/M6C24.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;s&gt;There is now a clog somewhere, since I changed the filament yesterday, not sure if that is related, just thought I should mention it.&lt;/s&gt;&#xA;UPDATE: I fixed the clog, and it is not related to the hotend...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23125" LastEditorUserId="23125" LastEditDate="2021-05-20T22:46:38.813" LastActivityDate="2021-05-20T22:46:38.813" Title="Hotend is oozing out the sides and getting in the way of my print" Tags="|creality-ender-3|hotend|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16321" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16320" CreationDate="2021-05-19T18:55:17.580" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Looking at the picture of your nozzle, it appears to seal against the heat break and not the Bowden tube.  (A nozzle sealing against the heat break will have an entry hole of about 2 mm dia. for 1.75 mm filament.  A nozzle will have an opening large enough for the Bowden tube to slip into if it seals against the Bowden tube.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your heat break is all metal, you have an all metal hot end that can extrude above 250 °C.  If your heat break has a Teflon tube inside it, your hot has a highest temperature below 250 °C to avoid degrading the Teflon.  Both follow the same procedure below, but you highest temperature for making the seal will be different.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To see if your nozzle is OK (not clogged), try pulling the filament out with the hot end at temperature (same procedure as unloading filament).  Trim the irregularities off the filament while leaving a sharp end.  Then, see if you can push the filament through the nozzle at extrusion temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If still clogged, remove the nozzle (you will need to tighten it later anyway) and see if the filament will go through without the nozzle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;After camera piture:&lt;/strong&gt; unless your hot end is all metal, the Bowden tube likely forms the seal to the nozzle.  See if the length of the tube going into the hotend goes down to the nozzle.  The end of the tube needs to be smooth to make the seal and the seal surface to the nozzle needs to be clean or the filament material soft enough to push out of the way.  Pull up to release the tube.  When you push down to lock the tube in, it should push the tube against the nozzle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For an all metal hot end follow the procedure below.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Before camera picture:&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;Sounds like you lost the seal between the nozzle and the heat break.  For most hotends (unless you have a plastic tube that pushes up against the nozzle) heat up to the maximum hotend temperature, then tighten the nozzle tight against the heat break in the heat block, to form a seal between the two.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the nozzle tightens against the heat block before the heat break, you won't get a seal.  You should see some threads of the nozzle exposed and not in the heat block.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Take care not to over tighten the heat break in the heat sink because the heat break is thin going into the heat sink to minimize heat conduction and will easily break.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your seal to the nozzle is with a plastic tube, investigate why you don't have a seal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Looking at picture:&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;Follow the above procedure while the heat break to the heat sink is of less consern since it appears that separate screws tighten it into the heat sink.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15075" LastEditorUserId="15075" LastEditDate="2021-05-20T16:23:28.957" LastActivityDate="2021-05-20T16:23:28.957" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16322" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16311" CreationDate="2021-05-19T19:13:46.940" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Majority of nozzles have a .4 or a .3 on it, that indicates how big it is in millimeters. If yours doesn't, take one of these digital rulers (the ones that have the prongs that stick out on the side and slides, I don't know the name off of the top of my head), extrude some filament and measure the filament, make sure that you find a piece that was extruded after the bottom hit the ground and make sure that you find one that isn't bending that way its not stretched or compressed.  (Your measurements won't be exact due to things cooling off and shrinking)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27902" LastEditorUserId="27902" LastEditDate="2021-06-07T19:01:45.347" LastActivityDate="2021-06-07T19:01:45.347" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16323" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16227" CreationDate="2021-05-19T19:20:39.800" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are several different ways you can go about doing this&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You could calibrate your printer/software better that way so the slicer can make better gcode files that are best fit for you printer&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Take a lighter to the edge and scrape everything off, this really helps for if your print gets really stringy, this balls all of the strings up and you can scrape if off&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use sandpaper, a file, or any type of abrasive tool to scrape the edge to get it smoother and flatter&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Some filaments melt with acetone, so if your printing with that, this would be a good solution for you as well.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a good video for every type of filament: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&amp;amp;rct=j&amp;amp;q=&amp;amp;esrc=s&amp;amp;source=web&amp;amp;cd=&amp;amp;cad=rja&amp;amp;uact=8&amp;amp;ved=2ahUKEwiy0KWuu9bwAhXyKDQIHf6iDasQwqsBMAt6BAgIEAE&amp;amp;url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.youtube.com%2Fwatch%3Fv%3DvSwumoSlZTo&amp;amp;usg=AOvVaw1L7WcqmbsJ5OBhzp5CT8lH&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&amp;amp;rct=j&amp;amp;q=&amp;amp;esrc=s&amp;amp;source=web&amp;amp;cd=&amp;amp;cad=rja&amp;amp;uact=8&amp;amp;ved=2ahUKEwiy0KWuu9bwAhXyKDQIHf6iDasQwqsBMAt6BAgIEAE&amp;amp;url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.youtube.com%2Fwatch%3Fv%3DvSwumoSlZTo&amp;amp;usg=AOvVaw1L7WcqmbsJ5OBhzp5CT8lH&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27902" LastActivityDate="2021-05-19T19:20:39.800" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16324" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16281" CreationDate="2021-05-19T19:23:16.757" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a problem with the model, you need to make sure that the model isn't hollow. You might be able to get around this though if you use scaffolding, it might recognize the overhand hand build supports for your print inside of your print, you just might have to mess around with the scaffolding settings a bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27902" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-05-26T21:32:24.373" LastActivityDate="2021-05-26T21:32:24.373" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16325" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16287" CreationDate="2021-05-19T19:25:30.540" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think that your bed is too hot because the bubbling is only on the bottom layer, if it was through out the entire print, I would say that it is your nozzle temp and you should do a temp tower, but because that isn't the case try lowering your bed temp&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27902" LastActivityDate="2021-05-19T19:25:30.540" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16326" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-05-19T20:55:26.857" Score="1" ViewCount="21" Body="&lt;p&gt;My printer was working fine two weeks ago, I traveled cross country with it (making sure it was secure while moving) to a place of significantly lower elevation. Nothing has printed well since I got here, including the print I did two weeks ago (same settings). I've adjusted flow rate, extruder temperature, infill density and style, fan settings, and releveled the bed, and I still have really brittle layers that don't hold together. It's almost like the nozzle is moving up and down on each layer in a pattern.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28454" LastActivityDate="2021-05-19T20:55:26.857" Title="How do you adjust for elevation and layers not sticking together?" Tags="|3d-models|3d-design|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16327" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13436" CreationDate="2021-05-20T09:13:04.097" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;funny I have the opposite worry, I have a CR10s5 and relaxed the whole hot end with the CR10v2 one and now I get a thermal error at 170 degrees and it shuts off, should I just replace the cartridge, or do I need to replace the fans tooo&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28462" LastActivityDate="2021-05-20T09:13:04.097" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16329" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2021-05-20T11:55:37.843" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Tronxy XY-2 Pro is an FDM printer manufactured by &lt;a href=&quot;https://tronxy.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Shenzhen Tronxy Technology Co., Ltd&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-05-20T11:55:37.843" LastActivityDate="2021-05-20T11:55:37.843" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16330" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2021-05-20T11:55:37.843" Score="0" Body=" Questions using this tag should involve the Tronxy XY 3D printer manufactured by Shenzhen Tronxy Technology Co., Ltd. " OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-05-20T11:55:37.843" LastActivityDate="2021-05-20T11:55:37.843" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16331" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2021-05-20T12:07:11.757" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Tronxy X5SA is a printer of the X5 Series (CoreXY) of FDM 3D printers manufactured by &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.tronxy.com/x-series/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Shenzhen Tronxy Technology Co., Ltd&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-05-20T12:07:11.757" LastActivityDate="2021-05-20T12:07:11.757" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16332" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2021-05-20T12:07:11.757" Score="0" Body="Questions using this tag should involve the Tronxy X5SA 3D printer manufactured by Shenzhen Tronxy Technology Co., Ltd. " OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-05-20T12:07:11.757" LastActivityDate="2021-05-20T12:07:11.757" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16333" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16304" CreationDate="2021-05-20T12:24:22.047" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Assuming that your &lt;code&gt;M119&lt;/code&gt; command has been executed for non-depressed endstop switches, it could be concluded that the firmware is incorrectly configured.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you execute the &lt;code&gt;M119&lt;/code&gt; G-code command and get &lt;code&gt;TRIGGERED&lt;/code&gt; status values for endstops, even when the nozzle head is not pressing the endstop switches, then you have incorrectly configured the endstops in the Marlin configuration.h file.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The most common setup is to have the &lt;code&gt;COM&lt;/code&gt; go to ground and &lt;code&gt;NC&lt;/code&gt; to Signal, this requires the following values to be &lt;code&gt;false&lt;/code&gt;, otherwise you need to use true.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#define X_MIN_ENDSTOP_INVERTING true// Set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.&#xA;#define Y_MIN_ENDSTOP_INVERTING true// Set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When an endstop is reported to be triggered while the switch is not depressed, the logic needs to be reversed. Marlin firmware will only allow movement to go away from the endstop when it is triggered, never against a triggered endstop (as this might damage the printer).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2023-02-04T23:32:06.103" LastActivityDate="2023-02-04T23:32:06.103" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16334" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16303" CreationDate="2021-05-20T23:18:12.110" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think you might be asking how to adjust your steps per mm, but if the motor is moving the correct distance, but at a slow speed, then it might just be a speed problem with settings, or whatever it might be. I have an Ender 3 but I think I might be able to show you how to calculate the steps per mm. There is a simple equation for this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;New E-steps=(target distance/actual distance moved)*current E-steps&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can use this equation with a couple steps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Step 1.   Make your printer extrude 100 mm of filament, then measure with a digital caliper how much it actually extruded (or moved). Plug this measurement into your equation in the part &amp;quot;actual distance moved&amp;quot;, and put 100 in the part &amp;quot;target distance&amp;quot;. You can control the motors by going to: prepare then move axis.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QHAZ2.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QHAZ2.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;step 2.  Go to the steps per mm section.  &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/798Ar.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/798Ar.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cdKcz.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cdKcz.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6pAp0.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6pAp0.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then use this value to fill in the &amp;quot;current E-steps&amp;quot;(but on your printer of course)&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6op2a.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6op2a.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;In the end your equation should look like this:&#xA;New E-steps=(100/your measurement)*your current E-steps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After you solve the equation, put the answer into the printer. To save your changes, go back two pages from &amp;quot;Steps per mm&amp;quot; and click the &amp;quot;store settings&amp;quot; button. This will save your changes onto your sd card, so make sure that it is in the slot when you do this. Also make sure that your sd card is in the printer at start-up, because it needs to boot up with the settings. (at least on the Ender 3)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25578" LastActivityDate="2021-05-20T23:18:12.110" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16335" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15830" CreationDate="2021-05-20T23:43:04.907" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think I know the answer to your first problem.&#xA;Check your flow rates and wall thicknesses in the slicer settings. And if messing with some of those settings doesn't fix the problem, it might have to do with your steps per mm which I posted an answer &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/16303/ender-5-with-8-bit-creality-1-1-4-board-issue-with-speed-of-extruder-motor-spin/16334#16334&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other two problems I'm not really sure about.&#xA;Just wanted to at least get one question cleared.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25578" LastActivityDate="2021-05-20T23:43:04.907" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16337" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-05-21T19:02:22.513" Score="2" ViewCount="121" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've observed printing PETG that the primary if not the only reason for using a high bed temperature seems to be preventing the bed from acting as a huge heat sink and rapidly cooling the initial layers such that they don't bond well to each other. In particulat, the heat is not needed for adhesion-to-the-bed purposes. This got me thinking whether there's a way we could get rid of the requirement, as a way to save time and all the energy spent heating the bed and cooling the room it's eventually dumped into.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With that in mind, are there viable bed materials that are good thermal insulators? Just putting down a layer of any insulating material between the underlying bed and buildtak or whatever surface you want might work, but I would think these kinds of print surfaces are designed for moderate to high thermal conductivity themselves, and wouldn't be as bad a heat sink as the underlying metal, but might still sap a noticable amount of heat out of the part right away.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2021-06-24T13:30:35.467" Title="Insulating bed material?" Tags="|petg|material|bed|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16338" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16339" CreationDate="2021-05-21T20:58:18.823" Score="3" ViewCount="1303" Body="&lt;p&gt;SUMMARY: I use a Creality Ender 3 and Cura 4.8 slicer. I need to print multiple objects 'one-at-a-time' (Cura allows this, that is fine) and I must specify the order in which each model is printed but Cura does not have this facility. My question is: how can I change the order of the printed objects by editing the G-code?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;DETAIL: Sometimes it is essential or useful to specify the order of printing multiple objects in a 'one-at-a-time' batch print to allow the printing of some objects that are taller than the X-gantry clearance together with other objects that are shorter than the gantry because if you can control the order then you can print the small objects first and then the tall objects (because the gantry won't get in the way of the already-printed small objects but if the tall objects are printed first then the gantry will crash into them). Specifically I am talking about two or more objects printed at roughly the same Y-level on the print bed (I know you can 'get-away' with it if you separate them in Y but I want to print multiple rows of such objects). Without control over print order this cannot be done thereby limiting productivity (number of models per print run).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;WHAT HAVE I DONE TO RESOLVE THIS ALREADY: I can control the print order of multiple identical objects in Cura (they are printed in reverse order to their creation as duplicates of an initial model and if there are problems you can sometimes control the order by moving objects around) but this does not work for multiple different objects. I did several Google searches and found some conversations that deal with this issue including on the official GitHub page of the Cura slicer (see for example this &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/Ultimaker/Cura/issues/6772&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Cura GitHub Discussion&lt;/a&gt;). The conclusion given by the Cura developers is that they understand the limitation, but it is not an issue for Ultimaker printers so they have no plans to make user-customisable print order a feature in Cura because it would be too much work for them to do the changes and maintain them. One person mentioned a python script to allow post editing of G-code to change print order but I could find no links to it. Another person described a 'workaround' in Cura to do with grouping and ungrouping models in a specific sequence but this does not work for me (?maybe it only worked in older versions of Cura). Perhaps someone on this forum has G-coding knowledge and could shed some light on how it may be done? [PS: I am only interested in G-code editing solutions for this question, or a Cura workaround that works in v4.8 - I don't use Octoprint/Rasperry Pi controllers].&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[EDIT] Thanks to the contributors in the accepted answer I managed to do this with 'cut-and-paste' (via a small C program - you could do it manually but it is tedious and there is more risk of making a mistake if you have many models). I used the comments in Cura's G-code and a few other G-code cues to calculate the correct splice points.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It works &lt;strong&gt;provided&lt;/strong&gt; you take care to ensure the new extruder code is either altered according to the new model positions or use the 'relative extrusion' mode when saving the original G-code from Cura (I used the latter method). Also you must splice the G-code at the right points to ensure pre-model start and post-model finish G-code commands are properly carried around and the final model in the original G-code needs a terminal G0 command to be constructed if it is no longer terminal in the new order so that it can properly position the nozzle to go to the next model in the chain. Also you need to ensure M107 is included prior to each model's first layer. There is danger in doing any of this - the new G-code might damage your printer if you get anything wrong - but it can work (at least it has for me).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I made several manual checks on the new re-arranged G-code as well as loading it into Cura and running Cura's nozzle simulator on it to ensure it does what I expected of it prior to risking running it in my printer, but after that it printed OK.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25188" LastEditorUserId="25188" LastEditDate="2021-05-25T15:12:33.927" LastActivityDate="2021-05-25T15:12:33.927" Title="Edit G-code to change print order of multiple one-at-a-time print jobs" Tags="|creality-ender-3|ultimaker-cura|g-code|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16339" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16338" CreationDate="2021-05-22T11:08:48.157" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can open the G-code file in any text editor and copy-paste the relevant sections of G-code to reorder them. It will be fairly obvious where one object ends and the next one starts because the printhead will move back down to Z=0; you can do a simple search to find the commands that move to Z=0 (in my version of Cura, it inserts a comment &lt;code&gt;;LAYER:0&lt;/code&gt; at the start of each object).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To ensure that the extruder starts in the correct position, look back at the previous print (in the original order) to see where the extruder finished, then insert (at the start of the new print) &lt;code&gt;G92 Exx.xx&lt;/code&gt; where &lt;code&gt;xx.xx&lt;/code&gt; is the previous position of the extruder. If looking back to the previous print is too tedious, you can also just use the very first extruder position in the print itself and use that. It will just skip printing the very first section of brim/skirt, which doesn't make a big difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastEditorUserId="26" LastEditDate="2021-05-22T11:37:53.670" LastActivityDate="2021-05-22T11:37:53.670" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16340" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-05-22T18:17:00.110" Score="2" ViewCount="1167" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was just wondering whether or not there is lead in brass 3D printer nozzles as I read that they do add lead when making brass to improve reliabilty or something along those lines?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was curious as to whether the same reason applies to 3D printer nozzles and if it is enough to warrant buying a steel nozzle instead?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23354" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-05-22T22:32:52.483" LastActivityDate="2021-06-23T00:07:20.677" Title="Is there lead in brass 3D printer nozzles?" Tags="|nozzle|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16341" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16342" CreationDate="2021-05-22T18:33:38.213" Score="4" ViewCount="87" Body="&lt;p&gt;I’m just getting my feet wet with 3D printing, and I’ve had a few prints do this. Curious if anyone has any ideas for me that might help clean this up? (I don’t really have anyone in my personal circle who can help out, so hoping this community can :) )&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit 5/23&#xA;The first layer of the print is inconsistent in the way it’s deposited. Some areas feel correct while others are very thin. Usually there are large gaps like in the pictures below. After the first layer, the rest of the print seems to be fine. I’m curious is anyone has any insight into what could be causing the inconsistency.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I try to level the bed before each print, but I’m not sure if it’s at the correct height as the instructions I got with the printer are pretty subjective: “use a piece of A4 paper and you should be able to pull it with &lt;strong&gt;some resistance&lt;/strong&gt;”.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OD6cz.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OD6cz.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cNVrs.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cNVrs.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28504" LastEditorUserId="28504" LastEditDate="2021-05-24T03:34:15.600" LastActivityDate="2021-05-25T10:19:13.113" Title="Help With PLA settings" Tags="|pla|filament|extruder|troubleshooting|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16342" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16341" CreationDate="2021-05-22T19:41:58.173" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It looks like your nozzle is a little too close to the bed, if there is not enough space, you can see through the layer and pressure can build up and ooze out when there is a little more room in a different location (if the bed isn't completely flat/straight).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could level with a thicker piece of paper or add a Z-offset to the whole print ( e.g. in your slicer, or change the G-code by redefining the Z height).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could &lt;em&gt;also&lt;/em&gt; increase the first layer a little when slicing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2021-05-22T19:41:58.173" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16343" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-05-22T21:20:42.400" Score="3" ViewCount="608" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd like to make multicolor printing on Ender 6, but it seems that the filament change (&lt;code&gt;ADVANCED_PAUSE_FEATURE&lt;/code&gt;) doesn't work (it works on my Ender 3).&#xA;Can you help me how can I solve that? How can I make the &lt;code&gt;ADVANCED_PAUSE_FEATURE&lt;/code&gt; available on Ender 6?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28507" LastEditorUserId="360" LastEditDate="2021-05-25T08:41:53.213" LastActivityDate="2021-05-25T08:41:53.213" Title="How can I print in multicolor with Ender 6?" Tags="|marlin|firmware|creality-ender-6|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16344" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16343" CreationDate="2021-05-22T21:52:38.157" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Enabling &lt;code&gt;ADVANCED_PAUSE_FEATURE&lt;/code&gt; requires a rebuild and upload/install of a new Marlin firmware. The option is found in the advanced configuration file (&lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/blob/2.0.x/Marlin/Configuration_adv.h&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Configuration_adv.h&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please change:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;//#define ADVANCED_PAUSE_FEATURE&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;to:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#define ADVANCED_PAUSE_FEATURE&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rebuild and install the firmware.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2021-05-22T21:52:38.157" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16345" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16425" CreationDate="2021-05-22T22:53:43.177" Score="3" ViewCount="1097" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've had my Ender 3 for almost three weeks, gone through about a kilogram of PLA filament (printing a mix of upgrade parts for the Ender 3 and stuff I actually want to use) and made one PETG object, generally with good results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've noticed however, as seems relatively common (per YouTubers, anyway), that my bed isn't &lt;em&gt;flat&lt;/em&gt; -- that is, the build surface isn't a good approximation of a geometric plane.  If I adjust the bed to have correct clearance (good adhesion and correct single-line width) at the corners, I'll get adhesion failure in the center, and if I adjust to give a correct center, the extruded filament will be squished into the build surface texture; the nozzle may even lightly scatch the surface at the corners.  That indicates the corners are high, relative to the center, by roundly 0.1 to 0.15 mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm aware of BLTouch and its clones, but in order to get full use of that system (which automatically compensates for the non-planar bed) I would need to not only install the surface sensing hardware, but flash my printer's firmware (potentially after removing the control module cover and plugging a cable and adapter into the mainboard).  As a longtime builder/upgrader of my own computers, this is certainly within my capability, but I'd prefer to make my build surface flat instead of applying software corrections; I see this as upgrading from a 386 to a Core i3 because the computer is overheating -- that is, the problem will go away because of all the other stuff you have to do, but you haven't really &lt;em&gt;solved the problem&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My general idea more or less mimics the self-answer on &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11996/options-for-getting-a-really-flat-build-surface&quot;&gt;this question&lt;/a&gt; in terms of measuring the excursion and applying shims under the build surface (I've installed the Creality magnetic sheet surface, so shims would be applied between the magnetic base sheet and the removable build surface).  I plan to use household aluminum foil, standard weight, which is generally close to 0.63 mil (= .016 mm), applied with repositionable spray adhesive and laid down in layers, using a combination of feeler gages and single-layer test prints to determine where and how much foil to apply.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've &amp;quot;test flown&amp;quot; this option by putting a single Post-It sheet under the center of the removable build surface, and now I have a much closer match between the center and corners, and can (depending on my nozzle standoff) actually see the outline of the makeshift shim in the first layer where it prints over the edges of the Post-It.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there anything I'm missing that would prevent this shimming method using aluminum foil from resolving the warped bed to allow me to depend on an even thickness and correctly adhered first layer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28508" LastActivityDate="2021-06-03T11:02:33.610" Title="Does shimming my build surface compete with spending a bunch more money and time on an auto-leveling system?" Tags="|creality-ender-3|bed-leveling|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16347" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16348" CreationDate="2021-05-23T01:37:58.927" Score="1" ViewCount="355" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've read that white filament is a lot more brittle, because the pigment percentage is close to 50 %, e.g. black filament it's only around 8 %. I was therefore wondering if 'natural' colored filament, which has a somewhat ivory appearance, is also brittle like white filament.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maybe the color name is a marketing lie or maybe it is really natural colored and there has slim to no pigment in the filament. Making it therefore less brittle. Since the color is closer to white than black I would guess the first one but I would love to be certain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26618" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-05-23T21:24:39.877" LastActivityDate="2021-05-23T21:24:39.877" Title="Is 'natural' colored filament equally brittle compared to white filament?" Tags="|filament|filament-choice|filament-quality|filament-production|stability|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16348" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16347" CreationDate="2021-05-23T11:41:43.727" Score="0" Body="&lt;h2&gt;No&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Natural colored filament has no pigments added, the ivory off-white color is the natural color of the mixture in the filament.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also note, those white filaments can have much less than 50 % volume percentage of pigment, depending on the exact hue of white. The starkest cold whites might make that, warmer white can work with a lesser amount. Pigments are part of the filler materials.  The other fillers make the filament behave in the designed way and can make up a considerable amount of the filament. Usually, less than 40 % are fillers compared to the PLA.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastActivityDate="2021-05-23T11:41:43.727" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16349" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16341" CreationDate="2021-05-23T14:03:39.553" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It looks like a bed adhesion problem to me. Some additive information: What is your bed material?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Z-calibration problem isn't the only suspect. I've seen the same problem with my printer before. There were defects in some parts of my glass print bed that prevented it from sticking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The molten filament from the hot nozzle has two adhesion chances; full adhesion to the bed or adhesion next to the previous extruded filament. If the previous filament is not stuck to the bed, it means you are printing on the air shown in the pictures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Without forgetting, your images also seem to have a Z-calibration problem, but as I said, I don't think it's the only suspect for blobs. It will be useful to clean the surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20360" LastEditorUserId="20360" LastEditDate="2021-05-25T10:19:13.113" LastActivityDate="2021-05-25T10:19:13.113" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16352" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16340" CreationDate="2021-05-23T23:46:24.703" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's very likely that leaded brass is used in the manufacture of nozzles for 3D printers -- as noted by @AndrewMorton, this is done to improve machinability (the same is true of some steels, by the way) -- and when you're going to have to drill a hole potentially as small as 0.1 mm diameter, you want all the machinability you can get (I can say from experience that brass without the lead is very annoying to machine and likely to produce unacceptably high rates of broken tools and destroyed parts during that drilling operation).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, the amount of lead found in a single nozzle is very small, generally between 1.5% and 2.5% by mass -- a typical nozzle is only a few grams, so the lead content would be a few tens of milligrams.  Further, ingested lead (as metal) is not a major toxicity issue, because stomach acid reacts to form insoluble lead chloride, which then passes through the gut almost unchanged (&lt;em&gt;some&lt;/em&gt; lead will still be absorbed, but swallowing a whole lead bullet raises bodily lead loading less than breathing in a shooting range for an hour or two each week for a year, where lead compounds float in the air as smoke, both from primers and from unjacketed lead bullets).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you, a child, or a pet ingested a used nozzle (say, you dropped it and couldn't find it and worry about your dog), it would be more likely to do harm by abrading the intestinal lining as it passes than by the toxicity of the tiny amount of lead in the metal.  If this is a &amp;quot;today or yesterday&amp;quot; event, you should promptly consult an appropriate health care professional (physician, pediatrician, or veterinarian), who will likely want to take x-rays or CT scans to ensure the item passes through the gut rather than lodging somewhere along the way, as well as monitoring for symptoms of a complication (a perforated intestine is life-threatening, but relatively easy to repair if caught promptly; the surgery needed is similar to an appendectomy).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28508" LastActivityDate="2021-05-23T23:46:24.703" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16353" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16172" CreationDate="2021-05-23T23:57:58.920" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was getting intermittent underextrusion (to the point of brief &amp;quot;ghost printing&amp;quot;) with my own Ender 3 over the past few days, after a couple weeks of exemplary operation.  In looking the machine over (searching for issues that could cause clogging, for instance), I discovered that the &amp;quot;extruder arm&amp;quot; (the spring loaded arm on the extruder that carries the bearing and channel that presses the filament against the actual extruder wheel) was badly cracked; the crack ran from the brass insert where the screw holding the pressure bearing threads in, up to the hole for the screw the whole arm pivots on; it was near breaking off entirely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was able to find a .stl file for a replacement arm on Thingiverse (search for &amp;quot;ender 3 extruder arm&amp;quot;), and dismounted the broken arm and super glued it back together, hoping it would hold up long enough to print a replacement (I also contacted the Amazon seller about warranty service, since I've had the machine only three weeks and there's a 90 day warranty).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this is the cause of your own failures, it will likely go from &amp;quot;intermittent underextrusion&amp;quot; to &amp;quot;doesn't work at all&amp;quot; without any further warning.  Fortunately, that arm is made of a plastic that takes glue well (probably either polypropylene or ABS, as it appears to be injection molded); mine has held up for long enough to print a replacement, and (so far) through about eight hours of my next print in line (which is going perfectly).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28508" LastActivityDate="2021-05-23T23:57:58.920" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16354" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14304" CreationDate="2021-05-24T00:08:28.307" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Having melted acrylic on various occasions, I can hazard a guess why FDM isn't popular with this material: not only does it give off an acrid odor, the melted material is sticky and viscous, likely too much so to make into filament or to print reliably if so made.  Most acrylic materials are made by curing a liquid resin, either with a catalyst (&amp;quot;casting resin&amp;quot;, used among other things to make the spherical hulls of high visibility submarine vehicles) or with UV (these are different materials, but both in the acrylic family).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &amp;quot;an acrylic&amp;quot; that Shapeways offers, being UV cured, is most likely a SLA (&amp;quot;resin&amp;quot;) print.  If it's any sort of acrylic, it should still be thermoplastic, but will suffer the same disadvantages as common &amp;quot;Plexiglas&amp;quot; acrylic PMMA -- very, very stinky stuff to melt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One thing you might consider is using the &amp;quot;mold&amp;quot; capability in Cura Slicer (not sure if other slicers have this, though apparently some mesh modifiers can replicate the effect) to produce a 3D printed mold in which to &lt;em&gt;cast&lt;/em&gt; parts from acrylic resin sold for either fiberglass application or casting.  If you start with the correct resin type, the cured result will be nearly identical to PMMA, and you can make the mold on a common FDM printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28508" LastActivityDate="2021-05-24T00:08:28.307" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16355" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16362" CreationDate="2021-05-24T06:10:46.580" Score="2" ViewCount="1212" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am trying to print a tank to be used with my RC engine. The material that I have to use needs to have the following properties:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It needs to be possible to seal the final print so that it is not leaking any fluid&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It needs to resist methanol, nitromethane (a solvent like Acetone) and lubricating oil at room temperature. It can get discolored or have other changes from the fuel, but it must not be able to compromise the sealing.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I first - foolishly - just printed it with ABS as I do for every fluid container as I can nicely seal it with Acetone. After almost being done with it a friend told me to check the chemical resistance of ABS and as you might guess methanol and nitromethane completely desintegrate it, almost like acetone itself, so that was a waste of time/material.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next I considered using Nylon. It shows exactly the chemical resistance against all the fuel components I need, however I could not find any (easily available) option to seal the print after printing and after printing a small test container and pouring in some water it leaks after half a minute, so unless I find a way to seal the Nylon containers interior this is also not an option.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I checked various epoxies but the few that I checked all showed poor resistance against methanol/nitromethane.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I could not test yet but seems like an option is using HDPE. I am using PET bottles to transport the fuel sometimes so it definitely is both resistant and - in theory - watertight, however I am not sure how I can seal an HDPE print, so I am not sure about my first requirement with HDPE. &lt;strong&gt;EDIT&lt;/strong&gt;: I found that &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Limonene&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Limonene&lt;/a&gt; dissolves HDPE and is relatively harmless and easily obtainable. Maybe it can be used to seal the HDPE print surface?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hence my question: Is there a material that can be printed on a regular desktop printer (heated bed, nozzle up to 255°C) that satisfies both my requirements above or am I &amp;quot;doomed&amp;quot; to buy a moulded plastic fuel tank?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20301" LastEditorUserId="20301" LastEditDate="2021-05-24T08:56:43.883" LastActivityDate="2021-05-25T14:56:30.433" Title="Printing material for methanol tank" Tags="|print-material|chemistry|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16356" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-05-24T06:49:01.787" Score="1" ViewCount="2321" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've bought recently &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.amazon.es/gp/product/B08SW26F8C/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;psc=1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this UV lamp&lt;/a&gt; to cure my SLA prints:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I seem not to be able to get the job done. I got some leftover supports and wanted to throw them in the trash, so I put the lamp onto them, at &lt;strong&gt;less than 10 cm&lt;/strong&gt;, over a &lt;strong&gt;cardboard box with foil paper&lt;/strong&gt; in the walls, and accidentally forgot about it. &lt;strong&gt;After 5 hours&lt;/strong&gt; I remembered, got back, and &lt;strong&gt;the resin was still sticky and not cured.&lt;/strong&gt; Not to say that I should do this for both sides, so I don't think it's a good solution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried another one, this time with the lamp in my hands, and put the lamp over the piece &lt;strong&gt;less than 3 cm away. I spent 3 rounds of 5 minutes (that's 15 min)&lt;/strong&gt; with the lamp pointing directly at it (less than 3 cm away) &lt;strong&gt;and it was still not cured, either.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I'm asking: &lt;strong&gt;am I doing something wrong?&lt;/strong&gt; May my UV lamp be defective? Or is it normal to take so much time? &lt;strong&gt;Can you recommend any UV lamp that gets the job done and doesn't take forever?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I already have an Elegoo Mercury curing machine, but it hasn't enough room for big prints, that's why I want to get a lamp that I can use and adjust for bigger prints.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23311" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-05-24T18:39:46.020" LastActivityDate="2021-07-09T21:06:17.027" Title="How much time should take for UV lamp to cure resin?" Tags="|post-processing|resin|sla|elegoo-mars|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16358" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-05-24T09:29:38.473" Score="1" ViewCount="166" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am new to 3D printing, and new to mold design.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I played around with a model from Windows Paint 3D library:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UzEGo.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UzEGo.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And I realized that it would not be easy to 3D print a mold out of this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First of all I focused on the legs, and the fact that I cannot get the 4 legs by just splitting the negative shape into two mold parts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then I realized that maybe a zigzag cut could help, but it only work for legs when they are not parallel to each other, unlike the back legs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And in fact, there is the same problem for the ears.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd like to point out that I want to mold paper pulp, so I cannot really do injection molding, which means I really need access to the entire figure from both parts of the mold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It really seems like it is an impossible problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there tricks?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28455" LastActivityDate="2021-05-24T11:23:47.807" Title="How to create a 3D model as mold for a 4-legged animal with parallel legs" Tags="|3d-design|molds|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16359" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15796" CreationDate="2021-05-24T10:43:19.263" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I solved this by having Creality send me a new main board and new screen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sorry if you are experiencing this. Please contact Creality. They were happy to also upgrade my main board to v4.2.7!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27179" LastEditorUserId="27179" LastEditDate="2021-05-25T18:15:08.663" LastActivityDate="2021-05-25T18:15:08.663" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16360" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-05-24T11:12:27.193" Score="1" ViewCount="213" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm working on a project for which I use the &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/kliment/Printrun&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Printrun&lt;/a&gt; package to serial communicate my G-code to my 3D printer (Creality Ender 3, Marlin firmware). The idea is that I have an external button connected to an Arduino such that whenever I press this button, the &lt;code&gt;M114&lt;/code&gt; command should be sent and I want to receive the nozzle Z-position.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the moment the code looks like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;from printrun.printcore import printcore&#xA;from printrun import gcoder&#xA;&#xA;# some code for button&#xA;import serial&#xA;import time&#xA;&#xA;arduino = serial.Serial(port = 'COM5', baudrate = 9600, timeout = 0.1)&#xA;def Button():&#xA;    data = arduino.readline()&#xA;    time.sleep(0.05)&#xA;    return data&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;printer = printcore('COM4',115200)&#xA;&#xA;gcode=[i.strip() for i in open('MyCode.gcode')]&#xA;gcode = gcoder.LightGCode(gcode)   &#xA;printer.startprint(gcode)&#xA;&#xA;button = Button()&#xA;if button == b'1':&#xA;    printer.pause()&#xA;    print(printer.send_now(&amp;quot;M114&amp;quot;))&#xA;    printer.resume()&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The code is running but I don't get any information about the outcome of the &lt;code&gt;M114&lt;/code&gt; command when I press the button.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Questions:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is there something in my code that I'm missing? How can I receive the answer from the &lt;code&gt;M114&lt;/code&gt; command using Printrun?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do you know any other package that allows me to receive the answer from the 3D printer?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28527" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-05-24T13:26:45.097" LastActivityDate="2021-05-24T13:26:45.097" Title="Receive M114 command while printing using Printrun" Tags="|marlin|g-code|python|serial-connection|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16361" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16358" CreationDate="2021-05-24T11:23:47.807" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In traditional mold making, this would require a &amp;quot;sectional&amp;quot; mold -- one that breaks into mutiple pieces to free the legs, rather than just two halves.  Sometimes you can use a non-planar mold break line to avoid this issue; look at the molds made for casting miniatures that aren't neatly arranged to see examples, but as you note, with one rear leg alongside the other, the narrow space between isn't accessible with a rigid mold and a molded figure that can't be flexed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One way around this would be to print the figure and make a flexible mold from it -- the mold wouldn't be printed, but would be molded from a positive figure.  That would let you use a flexible mold material to run a join between the rear legs and still separate the mold, with a little care.  You may also want to make the mold in layers, as would be done for denture making -- using a soft, highly flexible material such as the alginate used in denture making for direct contact with the original figure, and then reinforcing the very soft contact layer with a sturdier backup layer to provide support.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28508" LastActivityDate="2021-05-24T11:23:47.807" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16362" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16355" CreationDate="2021-05-24T12:15:22.390" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most commercial blow-molded fuel tanks for model airplane fuel (methanol or ethanol, nitromethane or nitroethane, and some combination of castor, mineral, or synthetic lubricating oil) are made from HDPE.  This material isn't commonly seen as filament, in my limited experience, but it ought to be possible to arrive at settings that will give a liquid tight tank without further sealing if you can find some.  As you note, limonene might be used to smooth/seal HDPE prints, but likely won't be necessary if your settings are right.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might want to test PETG filament for its resistance to your fuel mix(es) -- this material &lt;em&gt;is&lt;/em&gt; available as filament, prints with settings little different from generic PLA (in my experience, higher nozzle and bed temperature, and a little more bed clearance for the first layer), with good layer adhesion and, with a good print, is liquid-tight as printed.  It's not particularly flexible (as is the case with HDPE), but since you can customize the shape of your fuel tank, it may work for you -- or it may be more flexible in vase mode, as PLA is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sealing PETG may be as simple as baking it (similar to &amp;quot;heat treating&amp;quot; PLA to increase print strength, albeit again at a higher temperature) -- this partial remelting will ensure that layers are adhered throughout the print, which (presuming you have avoided under-extruded areas) should be all that's needed to make a printed tank liquid tight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28508" LastActivityDate="2021-05-24T12:15:22.390" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16363" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3755" CreationDate="2021-05-24T13:03:18.690" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;For Windows 10 driver, go directly to the Microsoft update catalogue.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.catalog.update.microsoft.com/Search.aspx?q=USB%5CVID_1A86%26PID_7523&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.catalog.update.microsoft.com/Search.aspx?q=USB%5CVID_1A86%26PID_7523&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Download the .cab file, extract the contents. Using Device Manager update the driver for the partially installed device. After the update TronXY-2 now appears as a COM port.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28529" LastActivityDate="2021-05-24T13:03:18.690" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16365" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16210" CreationDate="2021-05-24T22:01:35.047" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had the same problem with my Ender 5 Plus.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a small set screw at the top of the BLTouch you will need to tighten this in to adjust the location of the sensor pin. Keep screwing it more and more until you see it initialize reliably that is it should move out and back twice to initialize.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the BLTouch initializes correctly then the leveling can be completed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28536" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-05-25T08:42:06.990" LastActivityDate="2021-05-25T08:42:06.990" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16367" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14505" CreationDate="2021-05-25T05:20:01.340" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;This response might be way late but no, SBS is not a typo.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://generalpolymers.net/sbs.cfm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Here are the info&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;SBS (styrene-butadiene-styrene)&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Poly (styrene-butadiene-styrene) or SBS, is a hard rubber that's used to modify asphalt, to make soles of shoes, tire treads, and other places where durability is important. It's a type of copolymer called a block copolymer. Its backbone chain is made up of three segments. The first is a long chain of polystyrene, the middle is a long chain of polybutadiene, and the last segment is another long section of polystyrene.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Polystyrene is a tough hard plastic, and this gives SBS its durability. Polybutadiene is rubbery, and this gives SBS its rubber-like properties. In addition, the polystyrene chains tend to clump together. When one styrene group of one SBS molecule joins one clump, and the other polystyrene chain of the same SBS molecule joins another clump, the different clumps become tied together with rubbery polybutadiene chains. This gives the material the ability to retain its shape after being stretched.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28541" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-05-26T11:36:32.503" LastActivityDate="2021-05-26T11:36:32.503" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16369" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-05-25T14:37:54.927" Score="1" ViewCount="493" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought a Creality CP-01 3-in-1 printer, all working well, until I had an email saying there's an update for your 3D printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I downloaded and installed the firmware... and that's when things went bad, the printer head thinks that the front left of the plate is the center so it can't print anything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've tried Creality and they say that the update was not for my printer (why then did I get the email ?) only the original firmware is for my printer and you can get it from their website.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I must admit that I'm a bit stupid (no sorry a lot stupid) when it comes to 3D printers, and that is the problem, the firmware update was a file you installed on the printer and job done even though it's wrong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've downloaded the files needed but they are not in the right format and everything I try doesn't work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28546" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-05-25T15:06:50.587" LastActivityDate="2021-05-25T15:06:50.587" Title="Creality CP-01 3-in-1 printer firmware reset" Tags="|firmware|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16370" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16355" CreationDate="2021-05-25T14:56:30.433" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;As a supplement to the answer (doesn't fit well in the comments).  This site &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.filamentive.com/chemical-resistance-of-3d-printing-filament/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.filamentive.com/chemical-resistance-of-3d-printing-filament/&lt;/a&gt; lists PETG has have a very high restance to alcohol, a high resitance to fuel&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Is PETG UV Resistant?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the long run, it is now a well-known fact that it will almost always come out on top when it comes to objects and builds that have to be resistant to ultraviolet (UV) radiation. I.e., UV resistant. This is why it is ideal for objects that have to be kept under the harsh mid-summer sun. This is because UV radiation has minimal effect on it as compared to PLA and ABS.&#xA;--&#xA;From &lt;a href=&quot;https://makershop.co/petg-uv-resistance/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://makershop.co/petg-uv-resistance/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15075" LastActivityDate="2021-05-25T14:56:30.433" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16371" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-05-25T22:27:04.410" Score="1" ViewCount="208" Body="&lt;p&gt;Recently I realized that I have been getting jitter-like rough surfaces on round parts of my models from my Ender 3. The jitters happen on the sides of the model, so the jitters would be happening in the X and Y. The weird thing is that some parts are smooth and others have jitters. Has anyone else encountered this problem? How do I solve it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a photo of my hovercraft where it happened the most. (This is all one piece)  As you can see, the section next to the jitters is completely clean. I'm not really sure about what is going on here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HK7mF.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HK7mF.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Example of jitters on print surface&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25578" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-05-25T23:42:00.763" LastActivityDate="2021-05-26T11:03:28.930" Title="Problem with jitters with Ender 3" Tags="|creality-ender-3|surface|creality|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16372" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-05-26T01:00:10.750" Score="1" ViewCount="380" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am using a Creality CR-10S Pro, and lately, I've been having problems with zits and blobs on my surface whenever I do an aesthetic print that has more curves and turns than a functional print would have. I think it started when I started using OctoPrint. I'm pretty sure the slicer is causing it, but I don't know exactly what setting. This are the results I'm getting with PLA at 60 mm/s and 10 % infill:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pv7qI.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Print results with 10 % infill&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pv7qI.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Print results with 10 % infill&quot; title=&quot;Print results with 10 % infill&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After this, I just changed the infill to 0 % and it fixed it, but only in the first few layers. I thought I had solved the problem, but after a particular layer, it started again (less than before, but still). These are the results:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wqvzn.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Print results with 0 % infill&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wqvzn.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Print results with 0 % infill&quot; title=&quot;Print results with 0 % infill&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This only makes it even more mind-boggling to me. What setting is causing this? I tried changing the maximum resolution and maximum deviation but returned to the first results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27685" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2024-03-28T18:59:42.273" LastActivityDate="2024-03-28T18:59:42.273" Title="How to fix zits and blobs caused by Cura?" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|slicing|creality-cr-10|octoprint|surface|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16376" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3596" CreationDate="2021-05-26T14:25:03.997" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had the same issue: Z-axis correctly homing manually but not when printing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What worked for me is disabling the following line in the Marlin configuration file:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#define Z_MIN_PROBE_USES_Z_MIN_ENDSTOP_PIN&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28577" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-05-26T19:52:13.470" LastActivityDate="2021-05-26T19:52:13.470" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16377" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16172" CreationDate="2021-05-26T15:33:56.890" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is some kind of filament stuck in the hotend tube problem. Just like &amp;quot;heat creep&amp;quot; as mentioned above. PTFE pipes should be checked, all parts should be carefully cleaned. I also add checking the extruder (gears, tightness) to the list. The plastic extruder can structurally loosen or break over time. I switched to metal extruder a long time ago, but metal also breaks / loosens after a while. Finally I'm using a double gear extruder without any problem. And I replaced the stock pipes with more durable PTFE and &amp;quot;Pneumatic Fittings&amp;quot;. &lt;strong&gt;Pneumatic fittings&lt;/strong&gt; are also very important by the way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20360" LastActivityDate="2021-05-26T15:33:56.890" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16378" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-05-26T15:41:32.180" Score="1" ViewCount="1566" Body="&lt;p&gt;What fan speed should I use with PLA? Do I need to manually set the fan speed in ‘Control’?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, on the filament cartridge Bed Temp is listed: &lt;em&gt;&amp;quot;No heat/60-80 °C&amp;quot;&lt;/em&gt;. Does this mean heating the bed is optional?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28580" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-06-26T16:56:59.013" LastActivityDate="2024-03-12T22:58:29.780" Title="Creality 10S 3D fan speed settings and bed temperature" Tags="|creality-cr-10|speed|creality|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16379" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-05-26T16:20:08.063" Score="3" ViewCount="1045" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have 2 Ender 3's and I am limited to wall sockets to power both the printers at the same time. So I was wondering if it was possible to wire both the printers to a single PSU? As the printer uses a single xt60 connecter for power to the mainboard, so there is a spare screw terminal on the PUS where the xt60 for the other printer could be screwed in. I am just afraid if I run both printers off one PSU, I might see some magic smoke or else the psu may not be able to provide enough power for them both and may cause print/power failure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28583" LastActivityDate="2021-05-26T17:25:19.770" Title="Is it possible to run 2 Ender 3's off one power supply?" Tags="|creality-ender-3|creality|skr-v1.4|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16380" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16379" CreationDate="2021-05-26T16:24:29.617" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The heated bed alone draws 220 W of 24 V power, so I'm going to say no, you shouldn't attempt to run two Ender 3 machines from a single power supply.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Instead, because the whole machine only draws about 3.5 A at 115 V (or half that at 230 V), you should consider installing a power strip or (better) a small UPS to both power both machines from your existing outlet(s) and also protect the machines from power surges and short power interruptions.  You won't overload your outlets, and you won't risk burning out a power supply by drawing twice the power it's built to provide.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28508" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-05-26T17:25:19.770" LastActivityDate="2021-05-26T17:25:19.770" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16381" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16378" CreationDate="2021-05-26T17:25:23.960" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Bed heating is not required when printing in PLA. But if it is an option and you would like to heat the bed, I would not go above 70/80 °C for PLA.&#xA;As far as fan speed, I would go 90-100 % especially if the bed is heated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28585" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-05-26T21:34:24.040" LastActivityDate="2021-05-26T21:34:24.040" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16384" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8162" CreationDate="2021-05-26T18:25:24.740" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've just been reading &lt;em&gt;3D Printing Failures: 2020 Edition&lt;/em&gt; by Sean Arandy and David Feeney -- one of the things they really harp on is that the high current connectors on the RAMPS board for the bed heat are grossly under-rated -- that is, they're connectors rated for about 4-5 A, while the bed needs to draw about twice that to heat a rated power level.  Their recommendation is to switch this connector on the RAMPS board for one rated at a minimum of 16 A to ensure it has a safety margin over the most current a 12V bed heater will draw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you use an e-reader, you may want to consider downloading this book -- it's only ten dollars for Kindle (also available on Kindle Unlimited), or twenty for a paper copy, and to my eye, it's worth having.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28508" LastActivityDate="2021-05-26T18:25:24.740" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16386" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15131" CreationDate="2021-05-26T19:21:10.657" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Same problem here. I removed it by force using a pliers and a hammer, then drill a spot on the shaft using ikea drill. Everything works fine so far.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28589" LastActivityDate="2021-05-26T19:21:10.657" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16388" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-05-27T02:03:03.113" Score="0" ViewCount="472" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; new to 3D printing and I cannot figure out what is the problem is.  I have checked all of the belts and (to the best of my knowledge) they are tensioned properly.  I also did the bed leveling, however it is manual and I did this by putting a paper between the nozzle and the print bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think that my extruder is calibrated, in the sense that when a command is sent to extrude 50 mm of filament, it does.  I am unsure what else to check.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The attached image had 15 % infill in the cubic pattern and had ironing on for all layers, was sliced with Cura and printed on a Creality Ender 3 V2. Sorry about the huge size of the image.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The part that looks zebra-like should be smooth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RShEK.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Photo of not smooth print&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RShEK.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Photo of not smooth print&quot; title=&quot;Photo of not smooth print&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28593" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2021-05-27T03:41:35.420" LastActivityDate="2021-05-27T03:41:35.420" Title="3D print is not smooth, even with ironing turned on" Tags="|creality-ender-3|ultimaker-cura|smoothing|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16390" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5840" CreationDate="2021-05-27T08:45:56.653" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I wanted to expand on the great comment by 0scar and explain what's the fastest way to change pins. I know this is an older topic, but for the sake of people looking for an answer, I figured I add this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First of all it's easiest to change the pins in the pins file for your specific board by simply renaming E0 to E1 and vice versa. This is much simpler than copying and pasting the pin numbers per pin. Only do this when swapping entire driver pin lists as this gets quite confusing when switching around only certain pin numbers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second, and this is a big one: don't forget that when you use drivers that are capable of sensorless homing, and when you use that technique, you also have to change the _DIAG_PIN settings or else the sensorless homing won't work correctly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19470" LastActivityDate="2021-05-27T08:45:56.653" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16391" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16281" CreationDate="2021-05-27T11:31:06.463" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Print with Supports, Standard, Everywhere.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll get some external supports that may require sanding or scraping to smooth the attachment marks (it may be possible to use further Cura tricks to block those if this model normally doesn't need supports), but &amp;quot;Everywhere&amp;quot; will cause Cura to create supports that sit &lt;em&gt;on the model&lt;/em&gt; -- hence inside the hollow body.  I've seen them &lt;em&gt;inside a 3 mm diameter horizontal hole&lt;/em&gt;.  You can then adjust &amp;quot;support infill&amp;quot; to create what amounts to a (slightly inefficient) infill in the part of the model that's made as a hollow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd recommend trying this first with a large nozzle and thick layers, to speed printing for the test (&amp;quot;draft mode&amp;quot;), but I have every reason to believe it will work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28508" LastActivityDate="2021-05-27T11:31:06.463" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16392" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-05-27T12:10:55.947" Score="1" ViewCount="1148" Body="&lt;p&gt;I printed a lot of models in last month. I spent 2 kg filament in total. I want to know how many hours have been passed while printing. As far as I read, 1 kg PLA (1.75 mm) is about 110 meters long. My default print speed is 70 mm/s. The nozzle diameter is 0.4 mm. The nozzle multiplier in the simplify3d is 0.9 .&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In a very basic math,&#xA;220÷(0.7×0.04÷0.0175×0.9)=~ 153 hours.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this correct?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20360" LastActivityDate="2021-10-24T21:05:00.443" Title="Estimating filament consumption in length per time" Tags="|filament|speed|estimation|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16393" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16392" CreationDate="2021-05-27T12:25:44.903" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your math looks correct, and is also a good approximation for what I've seen in the first few weeks with my own Ender 3.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another way to calculate (to check yourself) is to calculate the volume extruded (nozzle area times extrusion percentage times print speed -- be sure you convert everything to the same units!) in a given second, multiply by the density of your filament (common PLA runs about 1.2 g/cm^3), and get a rough figure for how long it takes to print a kilogram of filament.  Your actual print time will always be higher than this approximation, because there are moves during which the extruder isn't running, infill is often set to lower extrusion level, and of course there's setup and cleanup time to account for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28508" LastActivityDate="2021-05-27T12:25:44.903" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16394" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16392" CreationDate="2021-05-27T19:06:51.407" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your formula doesn't seem to take into account two important factors: layer height and average speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do the math differently:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;voumetric flow rate [mm^3/s] = layer height [mm] * line width [mm] * speed [mm/s]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, 0.2 * 0.45 * 70 = 6.3 mm^3/s&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;which is realistic, the extruder on the Ender 3 cannot go much faster than that reliably.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PLA weighs 1.24 g/cm^3 = 0.00124 g/mm^3&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To extrude 1 kg you need 1000/(0.00124 * 6.3) = 35 hours (70 for 2 kg).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However the printer does not reach 70 mm except on straight long moves, the average speed may be lower or much lower depending on what you print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you print technical parts with straight edges, maybe you can multiply by 1.5 (50 hours/kg), but if you print models and small statues or similar you may need to double it (70 hours/kg).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I use Klipper as firmware and I have a macro which keeps track of printing time and filament length used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2338" LastActivityDate="2021-05-27T19:06:51.407" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16395" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-05-27T19:54:59.997" Score="0" ViewCount="19" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just got my new CR-10 Max and got it assembled. I turned it on, was auto-leveling it, and I received a slight shock from the leveling bed and the frame. Is this a grounding issue? I haven't even printed anything yet and this happens. Anyone have any tips or heard this happening before? I've sent 3 emails to Creality already and gotten no response.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28612" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-05-27T22:13:16.733" LastActivityDate="2021-05-27T22:13:16.733" Title="CR-10 Max slight shock when touching heat bed or frams" Tags="|creality-cr-10|grounding|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2021-05-28T13:58:47.727" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16396" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16399" CreationDate="2021-05-27T23:33:41.123" Score="7" ViewCount="360" Body="&lt;p&gt;I live in an arid environment and have never worried about leaving filament out for an extended period of time. To reduce how frequently we receive static shocks I installed a whole house humidifier with a target humidity of 35 %. Is this enough humidity to warrant storing filament in a dry box? At what point does ambient humidity become a concern?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28617" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-05-29T06:17:21.810" LastActivityDate="2021-05-29T06:17:21.810" Title="What ambient humidity should one target for filament storage?" Tags="|filament|storage|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16399" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16396" CreationDate="2021-05-28T12:37:05.840" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The closer to zero humidity the better.  Maybe a garage or some place protected from rare precipitation outside would be better.  If one room is considerably less humid than the others, you could use it.  Keep the bags and dry packs the filament comes in and put them back in when not in use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15075" LastActivityDate="2021-05-28T12:37:05.840" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16401" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15136" CreationDate="2021-05-29T18:00:30.833" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Barrel's answer is absolutely correct, &lt;em&gt;provided the printer doesn't have gratuitous dependencies on gravity&lt;/em&gt;. For example, a lot of high-end CoreXY designs I've seen, with 3 Z motors for automatic true leveling, rely on gravity to move/hold the bed in the -Z direction and only drive the +Z direction. This is often done for the purpose of decoupling from error in lead screws/ball screws, as in the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4387638&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;HevORT ZR V2&lt;/a&gt;. Such machines can't print in alternate orientations or zero/low gravity. However, they can be adapted to drive the Z in both directions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2021-05-29T18:00:30.833" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16402" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10167" CreationDate="2021-05-29T21:58:34.100" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ok, so to answer the primary question: What flexible filament will operate consistently at 250 °C?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Man, this is a tough one. Some filaments, like PEEK and ULTEM 1010 can operate up in the 200 °C range, but they're not flexible at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Silicon might be able to work, but you're still pushing boundaries.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, I'm lucky to be in a 3D printing company and we're testing a super-high-temp flexible material, very similar in temperatures to ULTEM. I'll definitely check back and let you know how it goes, but...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Honestly, that's so hot! Readily available thermoplastics may not be an option unless you're in aerospace with an unlimited budget which, based on the requirements, would make sense, lol!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd say the most readily available way to get this done would be 3D printing a mold, in which to put your silicone, and bam -- you've got the part.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28638" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-05-30T06:47:54.163" LastActivityDate="2021-05-30T06:47:54.163" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16403" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15136" CreationDate="2021-05-29T22:02:26.887" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Lulzbot used to do this at trade shows -- printers on their side, printing all day long.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So long as it sticks to the bed, and sticks to the subsequent layers of the part, it works.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The determining factor is gravity -- if the part being printed has overhangs or unsupported areas, the extruded material would fall back at the extruder, instead of down onto the part. You may get around this with dual extrusion supports, but if there's any layer separation, it would probably fail quickly, lol.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Zero gravity? Easier than upside down with gravity, I'd think!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28638" LastActivityDate="2021-05-29T22:02:26.887" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16405" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16407" CreationDate="2021-05-30T01:59:01.657" Score="3" ViewCount="2001" Body="&lt;p&gt;I decided to purchase a BLTouch for my Ender 3 V2. I did all the physical installation of the BLTouch at the same time as adding LED lighting. I plugged in the power to test the lighting (BLTouch was not plugged in yet) and everything came on fine and the lights worked as expected. I plugged in the BLTouch, hot-glued it in place, and finished zip-tying and screwing in everything else back in place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I connected power once again and powered on my printer. The fans came on, the new lights powered on, but the display didn't come on. I turned it off and back on, still no display. Then I smelled the distinct odor. I quickly powered off the printer and opened it up to look at the mainboard. I couldn't see any major scorch marks at first, so I decided to power it up again. That's when I saw the small spark and magic smoke at F2 in the picture below.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I feared the worst that I had fried my mainboard, but thought maybe it was the BLTouch. So, I unplugged the BLTouch and powered the printer on and miracle of miracles it powered on. All the fans, lights and display were on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So something with the BLTouch is causing the short but I don't know what it is. YouTube videos that I watched for installation showed a different cable than the one that came with the BLTouch that I purchased. My BLTouch came with a 1 meter extension that is actually 2 sets of cables. One set is a pair of black and white wires that I deduced were for power. The other cable is a set of three wires colored orange, red, and brown. I zip-tied the two connectors together to make sure they stay together. On the BLTouch end, the orange and black wires are next to each other. The connector in the bottom picture is in the same orientation that I plugged it in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Printer: Ender 3 V2&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Mainboard: 4.2.2&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;BLTouch: Smart 3.1 from &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B076PQG1FF&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Amazon&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Firmware: &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/Jyers/Marlin&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Jyers' Ender 3 V2 Extensible UI&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3ewTC.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3ewTC.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Ender 3 V2 mainboard&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/F5uNe.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/F5uNe.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;BLTouch connector&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23193" LastEditorUserId="36802" LastEditDate="2023-11-23T14:39:50.783" LastActivityDate="2023-11-23T14:39:50.783" Title="What would cause magic smoke with a BLTouch installed?" Tags="|creality-ender-3|troubleshooting|bltouch|jyers|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16406" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16449" CreationDate="2021-05-30T02:25:36.233" Score="1" ViewCount="1129" Body="&lt;p&gt;My Ender-5 Plus has started failing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The simplest path to failure is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Power On&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Settings&lt;/strong&gt; ▶ &lt;strong&gt;Leveling&lt;/strong&gt; (wait till complete)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tap measuring&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first zone will measure properly, then when starting to measure the 2nd or 3rd zone while the bed is raising the BLTouch, with probe extended, probe will start flashing red before touching the bed, the bed will descend, then my printer remains in that state (auto-leveling reported at zone 1 or 2, head at position 2 or 3, BLTouch flashing red, probe extended, and bed not moving about 2 cm below probe)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've also had it fail when attempting repeating levelings, and after starting a print immediately after leveling.  (The printer will level, then the head won't move or extrude while the printer starts to repeat progress on the print).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've tried printing from OctoPrint (which had worked and now fails) then disconnected that completely and powered off then on to try from an SD card, w/ no success.  I was able to connect the OctoPrint terminal and do some simple gcodes to see if those worked (&lt;code&gt;G0 Z100, G0 X100&lt;/code&gt;) and those worked.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure what else to try.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28641" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-05-30T02:40:06.673" LastActivityDate="2021-06-06T03:31:30.703" Title="Ender 5+ stops while bed leveling" Tags="|troubleshooting|bltouch|creality-ender-5|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16407" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16405" CreationDate="2021-05-30T05:58:42.450" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Given F2's proximity to the linear 3.3V regulator and some inductor and large diode possibly belonging to a switching regulator, it is likely that some short circuit caused the fuse on a power rail to blow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;According to &lt;a href=&quot;https://support.th3dstudio.com/hc/product-information/3rd-party-control-boards/creality-boards/creality-v4-2-2-v4-2-7-board-bl-touch-wiring-options/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;wiring instructions&lt;/a&gt; and your picture (if you're holding the connector as it was plugged in, you had it reversed:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Black to the G pins&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;NOTE: Sometimes blue or brown are used for ground wires&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Red to the V pin&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yellow/Orange to the IN pin&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;White to the OUT pin&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If that is the case and the protection was well designed, swapping the cable and replacing the blown fuse should repair the fault unless it also damaged to probe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for identifying the fuse value for F2 (T20), different manufacturers, due to the size limitations of SMD components, unfortunately use &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.electronicspoint.com/forums/threads/smd-fuse-codes.258987/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;different markings&lt;/a&gt;, but the T would indicate either 0.5 or 5.0A.&#xA;It might be best to ask support about the value for the fuse as the manufacturer would surely know.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28598" LastEditorUserId="28598" LastEditDate="2021-05-30T06:12:26.463" LastActivityDate="2021-05-30T06:12:26.463" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16409" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6088" CreationDate="2021-05-30T14:33:48.703" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just had this issue with my Monoprice Select Mini V2. It seems there's some bug in the software if you already have the 3D printer at its lowest Z-elevation before starting the home calibration. To make sure it prints correctly, move the head up using the manual controls, then hit home. It should then go to the correct default location. I then adjusted my print height to that default home location and it seems to be working again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps other people still having difficultly with this is&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28646" LastActivityDate="2021-05-30T14:33:48.703" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16410" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11270" CreationDate="2021-05-30T19:56:58.643" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since it happens in the same place each time, it's either G-code or mechanical. I've seen things like this happen with dirty gantries, or a dirty Z-axis guide.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it's not mechanical, there may be something in the G-code that causes it, such as too many retractions in one area, or similar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28638" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-05-30T22:37:13.590" LastActivityDate="2021-05-30T22:37:13.590" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16411" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13591" CreationDate="2021-05-31T18:40:19.613" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;So there could be multiple solutions to your problem. One of them being as mentioned in another answer that you aren't printing hot enough. Double-check the filament that you got, there should be a temp rating either on the spool or the description of the product.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another solution is if it is hot enough but it's not going through, take the tube out and hit the extrude button (It should be the button you hit when you resupply the filament and if it doesn't come out of the end there, you will need a new tube to feed it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If that isn't the case either and you are double-checking to make sure it is hot enough and that it's not getting caught in the tube (you could double-check the temp of the nozzle with a digital thermometer just to be extra safe) check out your hot end to make sure that nothing is snagging. So, take off your tube and nozzle and look through it to see if you see anything sticking out or anything like that, there shouldn't be though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, for a future issue that might happen is that you get it extruding and everything, you are going to want to take out your tube from the hot end, extrude enough filament so it's sticking out a little bit, trim that, then you are going to tell your printer to extrude 100 mm, then trim that again, and you are going to want to measure what you just trimmed. Then you are going to take that number (let's say x) and plug it into this equation: (old rate)*(100/x) where old rate the rate that it was extruding out the filament before. &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.matterhackers.com/articles/how-to-calibrate-your-extruder#:%7E:text=The%20formula%20is%20simple%3A,(100%20%2F%20101.3)&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;How to calibrate your extruder&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27902" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-05-31T18:50:24.323" LastActivityDate="2021-05-31T18:50:24.323" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16412" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15136" CreationDate="2021-05-31T18:43:47.437" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;SLA printing wouldn't just work on earth, it just needs some sort of gravitational pull just to keep the liquid down. On the other hand, &amp;quot;normal&amp;quot; 3D printing in theory could print upside down, sideways or in 0 gravity because the process that takes to print is it squishes melted filament down onto other filament that has been melted and cooled or the print bed, the only constraint with doing that is making sure that making sure that the print doesn't slip or fall&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27902" LastActivityDate="2021-05-31T18:43:47.437" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16413" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16047" CreationDate="2021-05-31T18:50:04.787" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I believe that the color is just a design choice, and doesn't have that big of an effect on the print itself. Changing the color wouldn't have an effect on the print itself. If you are looking for a solution to minimize radiation of heat going up to the build, you could either lower the heat of the bed, or you could go into the advanced print settings and change the bed temp after the first couple layers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27902" LastActivityDate="2021-05-31T18:50:04.787" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16414" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-05-31T23:32:11.850" Score="1" ViewCount="2462" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to get my Ender 5 plus to print at 300 °C. As such, I've edited the firmware and increased the &lt;code&gt;HEATER_0_MAXTEMP&lt;/code&gt; to 315 °C.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my slicer, I can slice and print at 300 °C, however, I cannot manually adjust the temperature on the LCD screen past the stock setting of 260 °C.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any help in getting the manual adjustment fixed would be greatly appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28664" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-06-01T02:14:07.667" LastActivityDate="2024-03-18T18:01:15.187" Title="Ender 5 Plus manual screen temperature adjustment" Tags="|marlin|firmware|creality-ender-5|temperature|lcd-screen|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16416" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-06-01T06:33:36.170" Score="0" ViewCount="64" Body="&lt;p&gt;The problem with my Anet E12 should be on USB connection itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If powered down, the board still gets power from USB&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If board is resett, USB will still connect&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Still works on SD; seem like most part not damage.&#xA;What cause the problem? Where to check first? How to fix it?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: This printer worked with no problem before.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21079" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-06-01T13:31:50.563" LastActivityDate="2021-06-01T20:17:38.203" Title="My Anet E12 USB keep disconect but still able to print from SD" Tags="|usb|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16417" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16223" CreationDate="2021-06-01T12:09:27.107" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are adequate demonstration videos on YouTube showing that it is possible to print very acceptable 28 mm scale miniatures with FDM printers, easily rivaling the quality of resin printers from only a few years ago.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a couple of key requirements to get optimum quality for small, highly detailed parts (like miniatures): the smallest practical nozzle (0.2 mm seems to be elected), the smallest practical layer height (for 0.2 mm nozzle, this seems to be 0.1 mm), and optimal temperature and cooling.  Supports, if needed, can be optimized for layer skip, interface, and traditional or tree style.  It may take several test prints to find the best combination, but once found this should remain fairly constant for a given printer and filament choice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The final ingredient, of course, is patience -- small nozzle, fine layer height, possibly reduced print speed required for those, mean these prints will take longer than you'd think for the size of the final object -- but if you get the settings right, and are willing to wait, you can get good miniatures with FDM.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For filament choice, I'd suggest PLA, generally -- it's very tolerant stuff, except for temperature, and you aren't likely to leave your minis on the dash of your car in the sun anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28508" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-06-01T13:35:14.767" LastActivityDate="2021-06-01T13:35:14.767" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16418" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16427" CreationDate="2021-06-01T16:00:35.677" Score="1" ViewCount="778" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently received my Creality CR-6 SE printer and upgraded the controller board to a Bigtreetech SKR CR6 V1.0 and installed the latest community firmware.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you can see on the attached image, the corners have this weird elephant foot thing going on the vertical surfaces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Jk3SN.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Jk3SN.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then there is that zig-zag pattern across the flat surfaces on the sides, makes me think the cubic infill pattern is shining through the sides. I am using Cura 4.8.0 with a modified start G-code to put a purge line on the side before print to prevent drooping in the middle of the bed while probing for the &lt;code&gt;Z0&lt;/code&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What causes these issues? I have not tweaked anything regarding the extruder aside from adjusting the screws that clamp the filament as the stock setting broke the filament when retracting because it clamped on too hard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have not changed the E-Steps, on the stock firmware this wasn't even possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/O4NLo.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/O4NLo.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;these are the current settings regarding speed, linear advance, temperature etc.&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I use Raise3d Premium PLA filament, I have tried a few and I'm most comfortable with this filament.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this is over extrusion, I can totally work with that. I have done E-step calibration before on my Ender3. I will test for that after the current print is done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28674" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-06-01T21:50:07.667" LastActivityDate="2021-06-07T06:34:54.283" Title="Weird pattern on vertical surfaces on all prints" Tags="|print-quality|bigtreetech|creality-cr-6|skr-cr6|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16419" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15136" CreationDate="2021-06-01T16:02:46.900" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think it's safe to say that there's at least one model of 3D printer that works in microgravity -- since &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.nasa.gov/mission_pages/station/research/news/3d-printing-in-space-long-duration-spaceflight-applications&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;one was sent to the International Space Station a few months ago&lt;/a&gt;.  I presume the one there is an FDM type, as those need not be dependent on gravity; my Ender 3, for instance, has positive drive both ways on all three axes, so as long as the filament source is kept captive, the printer ought to work the same as it would on Earth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Beyond that, there is the Quinly setup, in which a common FDM printer like the Ender 3 is set up at about a 45 degree angle, using a polymer coated glass bed, to allow network printing part after part (the printer pushes the parts off the cooled bed with the X gantry and hot end housing before preheating for the next print).  Similar methods are used to print at a significant angle on a flat build surface for conveyor bed printers that can both print very long parts, and print sequences of parts one after the other (the belt carries the parts to the turn-around, then the flex pops them off).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The operation of common FDM printers depends on mechanical grip of the filament, screw or toothed belt drive of the axes, and adhesion of the first layer to the build surface and of subsequent layers to those already laid down --- this ought to work even upside down, against gravity, at least until the weight of the part starts to compete with its adhesion strength.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28508" LastEditorUserId="28508" LastEditDate="2021-06-03T16:57:05.483" LastActivityDate="2021-06-03T16:57:05.483" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16420" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16416" CreationDate="2021-06-01T17:56:54.623" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sounds like a power saver issue.  Make sure things like your USB ports, hard drive, or anything you need the printer program to access doesn't turn off in power save.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15075" LastActivityDate="2021-06-01T17:56:54.623" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16421" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16414" CreationDate="2021-06-01T18:25:21.457" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are two important considerations before approaching the firmware issue: first, do you have an all-metal, direct-drive extruder?  If you don't, your Bowden tube will melt where it enters the hot end and lead to clogs before you ever reach 300 °C (the same may be true of other plastic parts, if present).  Second: is your heater cartridge rated for high enough power to actually heat the hot end that hot?  There are things like silicone socks that can help here, by keeping the heat break and print cooling fan airflow off the actual hot end -- but this may not even be possible with the stock cartridge for an Ender 5 Plus.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming you've already dealt with those potential issues (and given you can print at this temperature via slicer settings, it seems you have), it seems likely that the Marlin firmware has hard coded limits in the adjustment modules or the LCD input module that prevent manually setting the temperature to a range that is none the less within the reach of the actual control PID.  The only solution for this is likely to be analyzing the source code for the input and manual control modules to find and increase that limit (it may exist in more than one location, and they may not all have a value of 260 °C).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously, you'll want to store an unmodified (or at least a known-working) copy of the firmware before you delve into what might be poorly documented or undocumented parts of the code, but the beauty of open source is that at least this is &lt;em&gt;possible&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28508" LastActivityDate="2021-06-01T18:25:21.457" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16422" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16416" CreationDate="2021-06-01T20:17:38.203" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ok I found the problem. these shameful for me but I decide to share it anyway.&#xA;I live in apartment that didn't have earth ground in receptacle. Small electrical shock reallly bother me. althought it also destroy some sensitive component mosfet. (current flow through capacitor in switch mode power supply) Then one day I decide to get rid of these. I hammer ground rod and wire it to some receptacle. these when the whole problem start.&#xA;The print shockme many time so I decide to give it a ground but I have no problem with PC so.. I don't give ground to PC.&#xA;When these thing connected seem like there are some ground potential diffence. that current flow via ground (shield of USB cable) make PC uncomfartable and disconnect usb device.&#xA;luckily pc not broken. I give ground to both device and evrything work fine in harmony again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21079" LastActivityDate="2021-06-01T20:17:38.203" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16424" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-06-02T01:14:54.907" Score="1" ViewCount="1286" Body="&lt;p&gt;I currently have the V4.2.2 motherboard and it is producing some very poor prints on the X- and Y-axis. I have tried many quick fixes to no avail. Every print out of the box more than a few cm tall has these major defects. Belts are sufficiently tight, the bed is level, the printer is on a flat sturdy table, and I still have this issue. Thanks for your help&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kBXMz.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kBXMz.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Print&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28681" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-06-02T04:58:24.890" LastActivityDate="2021-06-02T04:58:24.890" Title="Ender 3 V2 really bad layer shifting" Tags="|creality-ender-3|layer-shifting|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16425" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16345" CreationDate="2021-06-02T01:46:21.010" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I may be biased as my question/answer is the one I believe you're asking this question in reference to, but I would say that yes, it not only competes but is a far better solution. &amp;quot;Auto-leveling&amp;quot; systems &lt;strong&gt;do not level&lt;/strong&gt; your bed. They just partially compensate for poor adhesion by adjusting the bottom layer(s) of your print to conform to the bed's errors. This of course messes up the dimensional accuracy of your prints; in a worst case it can come out &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/16284/height-of-the-prints-are-always-larger&quot;&gt;rather absurd&lt;/a&gt;. They also do not compensate for the change in volume (which would require differing extrusion amounts) due to changes in Z height to compensate for the non-level bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The right solution is always to get your bed level and flat. Ideally if the bed/print surface is warped, you replace it with one that's not, but shimming is a reasonable alternative. ABL systems (not talking about real 3-point leveling with 3 Z motors here, but &amp;quot;ABL&amp;quot; stuff like BLTouch) are a gimmick for making it easy for beginners to start printing without all their prints failing due to non-adhesion from poor manual leveling. They're not a solution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-06-03T11:02:33.610" LastActivityDate="2021-06-03T11:02:33.610" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16426" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16424" CreationDate="2021-06-02T03:01:04.473" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Layer shifting can be caused by a number of different things. The following list of solutions is from All3DP's article &amp;quot;Troubleshooting Common 3D Printing Problems&amp;quot; under the heading &lt;a href=&quot;https://all3dp.com/1/common-3d-printing-problems-troubleshooting-3d-printer-issues/#print-offset-in-some-places&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;em&gt;Print Offset in Some Places&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;CHECK THE PRINTER HAS A STABLE BASE&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Place the printer on a stable base and in a location where it will avoid being knocked, poked and generally fiddled with. Even a small nudge of the printer can shift the print base and cause issues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;CHECK THE PRINT BED IS SECURE&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Many 3D printers use some form of detachable print bed. Although this is handy when it comes to removing prints and avoids damage to the printer, it also means that over time clips and screws can work loose. Make sure that when you reinstall the print platform it’s clipped or bolted tightly in place to avoid any slip or movement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;WATCH FOR WARPED UPPER LAYERS&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;A print’s upper layers can easily warp if cooled too quickly. As the layers warp they rise and can cause an obstruction to the nozzle as it moves. In most cases the print will release from the platform, but if it doesn’t the powerful stepper motors can push the print and platform around.  If your prints are suffering from warping in the upper layers try reducing the speed of the fans slightly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;REDUCE PRINT SPEED&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;It is possible to speed up the print times for your machine by increasing temperature and flow. However whilst this may result in the filament flowing in the correct quality the rest of the machine may struggle to keep up. If you hear a clicking during printing this could be a sign that the printer is going to fast. If you do hear a click the first port of call is to check that the filament isn’t slipping, before you take a look at the actual printer speed. You can adjust your printer’s speed easily enough in any good slicing software.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;CHECK THE BELTS&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;If layers are still shifting then it’s time to check the belts. A quick check is to just go around all belts and pinch the two together. The tension in each belt should be the same, if not then you’ll need to adjust the belt position to even out the belt tension. Over time the rubber belts will stretch (You can often tell if they do as they’ll start to slip on the drive pulleys), if there is quite a bit of play in the belts then it’s time to replace them with new ones. Over tight belts can also be an issue but this is usually only a problem if you’ve built the machine yourself. Some printers such as the Prusa i3 have belt tensioning screws that enable you to easily adjust the belt tensions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;CHECK THE DRIVE COUPLERS&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;These are usually connected directly to a stepper motor, and one of the main rods that drives the print head. If you carefully rotate the coupler you’ll see a small grub screw. Hold onto the rod and taking hold of the attached belt and then tug the belt and try to force the pulley to turn. You should find that there is no slip between the coupler and stepper or rod. If there is, tighten the grub screw and try again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;CLEAN AND OIL THE RODS&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Over time debris can build up on the rods which means that at some points along their length they encounter an increase in friction. This can affect the free movement of the head and cause layer shifting. A quick wipe and re-oil of the rods usually solves the issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;CHECK FOR DEFORMED RODS&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;If you see the print head falter at certain points then it could be that one of the rods has become slightly bent. You can usually tell by switching off the machine so there’s no power going through the steppers and then move the print head through the X- and Y- axes. If you feel resistance then you know something is amiss. Start by seeing if the rods are aligned, if they are then remove the rods and roll them on a flat surface. If any are bent then it will be quite obvious.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23193" LastActivityDate="2021-06-02T03:01:04.473" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16427" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16418" CreationDate="2021-06-02T03:14:46.750" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Seeing the infill from the outside is usually caused by having a thin wall or an incorrect wall thickness compared to your nozzle. Wall thickness should be a multiple of your nozzle diameter; so a .4 mm nozzle should have 0.4, 0.8, 1.2 mm thicknesses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The following list of solutions is from All3DP's article &amp;quot;Troubleshooting Common 3D Printing Problems&amp;quot; under the heading &lt;em&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://all3dp.com/1/common-3d-printing-problems-troubleshooting-3d-printer-issues/#infill-is-visible-from-the-outside&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Infill is Visible from the Outside&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/em&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;CHECK THE SHELL THICKNESS&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Make sure that the value you have selected for the shell thickness is a multiple of the nozzle size.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;INCREASE THE SHELL THICKNESS&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;The easiest solution is to increase the shell thickness. By doubling the size it should cover any overlap caused by the infill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;USE INFILL AFTER PERIMETERS&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Most slicing software will enable you to activate Infill prints after perimeters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In Cura open up the ‘Expert Settings’ and under the Infill section tick the box next to ‘Infill prints after perimeters’&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In Simply3D Click ‘Edit Process Settings’ then select ‘Layer’ and under ‘Layer Settings’ select ‘Outside-in’ next to the ‘Outline Direction’.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;CHECK PRINT PLATFORM&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Check around the model and if you see that the effect is more prevalent on one side than the other, the effect could be due to calibration. If so run through the usual calibration process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;PRINT SHELLS TO YOUR ADVANTAGE&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Depending on the type of model that you’re printing you can use the internal and shell printing order to your advantage. When you want a high-quality print with a good surface finish where the actual strength of the model isn’t important, select print from the Outside-in. If however the strength of the print is paramount then select Print from in Inside-Out and double the wall thickness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason for the difference in strength is that when you print from the Outside-in you eliminate the small amount of overlap that causes the ghosting issue, but this also means that the actual structure won’t create the same strength of bond between the internal and external structure due to the lack of overlap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23193" LastActivityDate="2021-06-02T03:14:46.750" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16428" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16298" CreationDate="2021-06-02T20:29:43.620" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am not the best with firmware modifications or anything like that, but you could try running your printer through OctoPrint and do the bed leveling through that and maybe that might fix the problem that you are facing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27902" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-06-02T21:20:05.477" LastActivityDate="2021-06-02T21:20:05.477" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16429" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16345" CreationDate="2021-06-02T20:43:14.983" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;So, the difference between the shimming vs. auto-leveling is that auto-leveling goes around in a 4x4 grid taking measurements of the bed (you do need to set the Z calibration first, as you know) vs. the shimming method where you go to 4 corners on your build plate where you stick a piece of paper or something under there and you adjust the knob at the bottom until you can feel tension on it. What I've found to be the best for me at least is to use both. This is my method for printing every time:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Clean the build plate. I will take my scrapper and scrape everything off, then I will run it under some hot water and wipe all of the residue off that is still remaining, then I might take some glass cleaner or something and wipe it down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Set the Z calibration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Do the shimming leveling (I would normally go through all of the corners again plus the center/Z calibration just to make sure that I didn't mess up any of the other corners.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I will run the auto-calibration (I use OctoPrint so I just run it through there)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Smear Elmer's glue over the print bed. I do this for a couple of reasons:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I use the glass side of the bed, just because I've gotten better results this way, and&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;it just makes your prints stick better. I also do this after the Z calibration and bed calibration because you get better results this way.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Start the print and watch the first couple of layers. If you notice that when you are printing and the brim looks stringy, like you could pick apart the individual lines, you should cancel the print, and go back to your slicer and bring your line width down my 0.1 mm, I typical print with the lines 0.1 mm or 0.2 mm below what the nozzle prints at, so a 0.5 mm nozzle I will print at 0.4 mm. And if your print messes up here I'd scrape everything off so the filament and the glue off (I'd keep the bed hot and the tip hot just so I don't have to wait 10 min. for it to heat up again) then apply more glue and reprint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27902" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2021-06-02T23:39:54.413" LastActivityDate="2021-06-02T23:39:54.413" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16430" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16431" CreationDate="2021-06-02T20:51:47.847" Score="2" ViewCount="464" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am using an Ender 3 with a Micro Swiss hotend and a 0.8 mm nozzle, Polylite PETG filament and a masking tape covered glass bed. I have used Cura for slicing with settings:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Layer height: 0.32 mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wall line count: 2&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Printing temp initial: 255 °C&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Printing temp after first layer: 245 °C&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bed temp: 80 °C&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 brim&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Print speed: 40 mm/s (10 mm/s for initial layer)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2.3 mm retraction at 20 mm/s&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fan speed: 0 % for first layer, 40 % after&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/P6sDM.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/P6sDM.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Mpqop.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Mpqop.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is also interesting that the problem did not occur on half of the part, but did occur on the other half. Is the problem due to the slight warping up of the part, or due to something else? How can I fix it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20579" LastEditorUserId="7470" LastEditDate="2021-06-03T08:01:53.020" LastActivityDate="2021-06-03T08:01:53.020" Title="How do I fix mini-blobs on the edge of a part?" Tags="|creality-ender-3|ultimaker-cura|petg|retraction|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16431" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16430" CreationDate="2021-06-03T05:59:23.100" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;What you are seeing is what is called the 'seam'. Since this part cannot be printed in vase mode (where the extrusion is essentially done as a compressed spiral), there is a point where the printing on a layer ends, and the printer moves to the next layer. This is where the seam is formed. Blobs that form at this change in layers are not uncommon, but the ones in your print seems larger than expected.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can experiment with larger retractions settings which normal reduce the size, but these seams cannot be avoided completely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another change is that most slicers have the option to place the seam at different locations on your part, including placing them at random locations. This removes the pronounced seam, but put little blobs all over your print. Sometimes that is preferred for accuracy instead of the specific seam.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7470" LastActivityDate="2021-06-03T05:59:23.100" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16433" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16434" CreationDate="2021-06-03T16:29:58.393" Score="1" ViewCount="611" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've upgraded my Ender 3 Pro to the point where I'm causing myself problems, one of them specifically is this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My z axis drops down to the bed because of all the stuff hanging off it (added a bltouch probe, cable chain) whenever it is idle, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Lpc1bTsSpRA&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;example video of what I am talking about&lt;/a&gt;.  When it first started happening I bought an Anti backlash leadscrew nut and installed that and it helped A BIT.   The gantry wouldn't drop as often or as far.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;But it still happens.  I've thought about possibly adding a dual z axis motor and leadscrew anyway (with additional anti-backlash nut), and I wonder if that'll help because the gantry would have to overcome the friction on both sides.....   but in the meantime I want to solve a very specific problem it causes:&#xA;I just printed a benchy and right after the print was done (when I wasn't paying attention and before I noticed) the nozzle crashed right down into the print.  It must have still been a little hot because it melted right into it.  Not far enough to ruin it but I could see this causing an issue if it was something besides the Benchy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there code I can run at the end of a print to tell the hot end to move out of the way?  So if it does come crashing down its off in the corner or something?   I use Cura and marlin if thats relevant.  I &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/5527/any-code-to-move-up-z-axis-after-finishing-the-printing&quot;&gt;did see this question&lt;/a&gt;  but I guess my even dumber question is:  if that code works, how do I add it?  Is that in Cura?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15186" LastActivityDate="2021-06-03T16:51:55.583" Title="Gantry crashing into bed after print" Tags="|g-code|z-axis|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16434" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16433" CreationDate="2021-06-03T16:51:55.583" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;What you describe sounds more like a last-layer (or near-last-layer) machine restart than a problem with the Z axis back-driving (though it shouldn't back-drive from the weight of the gantry alone; you may need to tighten things like the anti-backlash nut or Z rollers).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My Ender 3 has, a few times, restarted after 3-6 hours of printing -- leaving the nozzle in a lump of plastic that has oozed as it cooled, and the &amp;quot;resume or stop&amp;quot; selection on the LCD.  I haven't seen any indication of overheating, excessive current draw, or other issues with any of my (box stock) components.  I have ordered a small 300W UPS to let my machine ignore the (presumed) tiny power flickers that I believe are resetting my mainboard -- but I won't know for certain if this solves the problem for a few weeks after I get the UPS, because the problem has been sporadic even with overnight and longer print times.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With your upgraded mainboard and using the firmware provided by that supplier, you may no longer have the resume feature that was standard on my Ender 3, nor the end of print park (which, in any case, would not happen in the case of a machine reset).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28508" LastActivityDate="2021-06-03T16:51:55.583" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16435" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16239" CreationDate="2021-06-04T06:10:37.680" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It looks like your printer is working at it's resonating frequency. If the things you mention in your response to ChinchillaWafers is still not good enough, try using different printing speeds or different fill patterns.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15081" LastActivityDate="2021-06-04T06:10:37.680" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16436" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10205" CreationDate="2021-06-04T06:17:19.697" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can try &lt;code&gt;mayavi.mlab&lt;/code&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Usage&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;from mayavi import mlab&#xA;import numpy as np&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;def draw3d_mayavi(array, path):&#xA;    mlab.contour3d(array.astype(np.int32)) # a window would pop up&#xA;    mlab.savefig(path)&#xA;    mlab.clf() # clear the scene to generate a new one&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;mayavi's recontruction is meant for generating 3D heatmap models of the array, so you have to put in a numeric one with 1s and 0s.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Note&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are some drawbacks:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;A window will pop out, you have to clear it in your code if you want to make multiple models.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The model reconstructed is .obj and can be very large. If you look closer at the model, you'll see that on the boder the mesh gets 3 layers. I guess the program assumes there to be some gradient.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;code&gt;contour3d&lt;/code&gt; function can set &lt;code&gt;line_width&lt;/code&gt;, but I don't see any sense of using it for binary data.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yet, mayavi is very quick, at least compared with voxelfuse. Maybe some post-processing is needed to solve the size problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Doc&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This function also enables setting color and opacity, etc.&#xA;See &lt;a href=&quot;https://docs.enthought.com/mayavi/mayavi/auto/mlab_helper_functions.html#contour3d&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Plotting functions - contour3d&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;contour3d&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;mayavi.mlab.&lt;b&gt;contour3d&lt;/b&gt;(&lt;i&gt;*args, **kwargs&lt;/i&gt;)&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Plots iso-surfaces for a 3D volume of data supplied as arguments.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Function signatures:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;code&gt;contour3d(scalars, ...) contour3d(x, y, z, scalars, ...)&lt;/code&gt;&#xA;scalars is a 3D numpy arrays giving the data on a grid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If 4 arrays, (x, y, z, scalars) are passed, the 3 first arrays give&#xA;the position, and the last the scalar value. The x, y and z arrays are&#xA;then supposed to have been generated by &lt;em&gt;numpy.mgrid&lt;/em&gt;, in other words,&#xA;they are 3D arrays, with positions lying on a 3D orthogonal and&#xA;regularly spaced grid with nearest neighbor in space matching nearest&#xA;neighbor in the array. The function builds a scalar field assuming the&#xA;points are regularly spaced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Keyword arguments:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;code&gt;color&lt;/code&gt; the color of the vtk object. Overides the colormap, if any, when specified. This is specified as a triplet of float ranging from 0&#xA;to 1, eg (1, 1, 1) for white.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;code&gt;colormap&lt;/code&gt; type of colormap to use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;code&gt;contours&lt;/code&gt; Integer/list specifying number/list of contours. Specifying a list of values will only give the requested contours&#xA;asked for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;code&gt;extent&lt;/code&gt; [xmin, xmax, ymin, ymax, zmin, zmax] Default is the x, y, z arrays extent. Use this to change the extent of the object created.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;code&gt;figure&lt;/code&gt; Figure to populate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;code&gt;line_width&lt;/code&gt; The width of the lines, if any used. Must be a float. Default: 2.0&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;code&gt;name&lt;/code&gt; the name of the vtk object created.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;code&gt;opacity&lt;/code&gt; The overall opacity of the vtk object. Must be a float. Default: 1.0&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;code&gt;reset_zoom&lt;/code&gt; Reset the zoom to accomodate the data newly added to the scene. Defaults to True.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;code&gt;transparent&lt;/code&gt; make the opacity of the actor depend on the scalar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;code&gt;vmax&lt;/code&gt; vmax is used to scale the colormap. If None, the max of the data will be used&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;code&gt;vmin&lt;/code&gt; vmin is used to scale the colormap. If None, the min of the data will be used&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Example&lt;/strong&gt; (run in &lt;code&gt;ipython --gui=qt&lt;/code&gt;, or in the mayavi2 interactive shell, see &lt;a href=&quot;https://docs.enthought.com/mayavi/mayavi/mlab_running_scripts.html#running-mlab-scripts&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Running mlab scripts&lt;/a&gt; for more info):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;&#xA;def test_contour3d():&#xA;    x, y, z = np.ogrid[-5:5:64j, -5:5:64j, -5:5:64j]&#xA;&#xA;    scalars = x * x * 0.5 + y * y + z * z * 2.0&#xA;&#xA;    obj = contour3d(scalars, contours=4, transparent=True)&#xA;    return obj ```&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28711" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2021-06-05T01:57:00.047" LastActivityDate="2021-06-05T01:57:00.047" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16437" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-06-04T07:41:05.967" Score="1" ViewCount="181" Body="&lt;p&gt;The title of this post more or less says it all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am having a heck of a time getting PMMA (polymethyl methacrylate) to print on my Lulzbot Mini 2 (which uses all of the standard/default attachments). Lulzbot offers a demo-STL file (called the &amp;quot;Rocktopus&amp;quot; - found here: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.lulzbot.com/content/meet-rocktopus&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.lulzbot.com/content/meet-rocktopus&lt;/a&gt;) that is used to evaluate whether or not the printer+filament are behaving as intended. Thus far, I have had no luck with its print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Layer separation consistently appears to occur at various levels:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;sometimes at the interface between the first layer of deposited PMMA (i.e. the first layer of the raft)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;sometimes at intermediate layers above the raft (i.e. mid-layers of the Rocktopus)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have scoured the internet trying to find parameter recommendations (e.g. &lt;a href=&quot;https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/full/10.1002/mame.201900263&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/full/10.1002/mame.201900263&lt;/a&gt;) in order to arrive at successful prints. I have tried several different combinations of bed temperature, extruder/nozzle temperature, layer height, travel speed, etc based on the few articles I have come across: no luck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have seen a few recommendations buried on forums to get a heat enclosure cage, but these were not specific to the lulzbot 3d printing line. The heat enclosures are a $200+, so I was hoping I could I find someone on here that could confirm the necessity of this accessory product before I shell out the moneys.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My mini is paired with the most up to date version of Cura Lulzbot (edition 3.6.23).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any assistance is greatly appreciated! Cheers~&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20345" LastActivityDate="2021-06-24T02:40:10.780" Title="Has anyone had success printing PMMA filament using Lulzbot products?" Tags="|filament|heat-management|lulzbot|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16438" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16444" CreationDate="2021-06-04T10:45:18.690" Score="0" ViewCount="115" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is it possible to perform a colour transfer from paper/transparency film to printed resin?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From what I understand there is some sort of transfer process for resin, but I don't quite understand if this works for 3D printed resins.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/speXcwTftyg?start=0&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/VcrmZW_K8DI?start=0&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28715" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-06-04T13:22:30.050" LastActivityDate="2021-06-04T22:16:43.100" Title="Colour transfer to resin" Tags="|resin|color|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16439" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-06-04T16:09:15.853" Score="1" ViewCount="2093" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I bought this printer three days ago as a way to dip my toes into the 3D printing world, and it was working great at first. But at some point, the ABL procedure started behaving oddly: Instead of moving down to touch each corner of the printing bed, it's now only doing so for one corner, then moving to the next, but instead of going down, it goes up. It then continues to the third corner, stops, and moves up again. After that, it returns back to home position. The result is that the extruder hovers way above where it's supposed to be --or alternatively bumps into the printing bed when it's near the origin corner-- thinking it's adjusting for some nonexistent slant, dripping filament all over the place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The gantry itself is totally level, and I can't see any mechanical faults. As far as I can tell, there's no way to manually level the bed, the only option is to use ABL.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found out that the Monoprice Cadet printer is the exact same one as the Tina2, so if anyone has experience with that printer in particular, it'll apply here too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28722" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-11-01T20:29:01.110" LastActivityDate="2022-02-04T16:19:03.053" Title="Weedo Tina2/Monoprice Cadet auto bed leveling: Sensor not moving down to touch the print bed" Tags="|bed-leveling|z-axis|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16440" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-06-04T16:27:04.690" Score="2" ViewCount="1746" Body="&lt;p&gt;Windows has its 3D Builder software which upon importing an image, converts it to a heightmap of the image, aka turning it to a 3D model that can be saved as an stl.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does Linux have software with similar properties that takes a black and white image and turning it into a 3D heightmap model?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28723" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-06-04T17:04:35.260" LastActivityDate="2021-11-02T23:02:32.303" Title="Converting a 2D black and white image to a 3D model for printing on Linux" Tags="|3d-models|2d|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16441" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16439" CreationDate="2021-06-04T16:47:25.927" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.weedo.ltd/product-detail/tina2/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;manufacturer's page for the Weedo Tina 2&lt;/a&gt;, the bed sensor for the ABL is magnetic -- which means that if you've removed the magnetic build surface you likely have removed the printer's ability to sense the bed height.  You most likely need to replace the worn out magnetic build surface for the (mandatory) ABL to work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Weedo ought to sell replacements for a part that wears out, but if not, you can buy one made for the Ender 3 (and cut it down to fit) on Amazon (very reasonably priced, too) and have it in your hands in a couple days, though I have no way to know the original didn't have specific poles in particular locations on the sheet.  You'll likely need to remove the base sheet from the Tina 2, if there is one, so as to follow the instructions on the Creality and ensure the upper, removable, flexible sheet actually sticks to the adhesive-backed lower sheet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28508" LastActivityDate="2021-06-04T16:47:25.927" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16442" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16440" CreationDate="2021-06-04T16:52:58.673" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;FreeCAD can import JPG (and IIRC TIFF and PNG as well) image files and produce a lithophane type height-map based on the brightness of each pixel.  I'd be rather surprised if other 3D CAD software aimed at the 3D printing user base couldn't do the same.  Most of the common free-to-use 3D CAD packages have Linux versions; FreeCAD certainly does (I use it on Kubuntu 20.04, and it should work on any recent version of any flavor of Debian-based Linux, if your hardware meets it requirements).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28508" LastActivityDate="2021-06-04T16:52:58.673" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16443" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-06-04T17:56:38.977" Score="1" ViewCount="749" Body="&lt;p&gt;I need to find enough spare pins to add two extra motor drivers for my big printer build. I am using two motors for the Y and three for Z, I can use the E1 for one of them because I won't be using a second extruder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I need to find six pins to get two external drivers working. I know the MKS Gen L has 3 servo ports, but one will be going to my BLTouch. Can I reuse the other ports? What other ports can I use for adding extra motor drivers?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know it also has AUX ports as well but I don't know if they are being using by somthing else.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27229" LastEditorUserId="27229" LastEditDate="2021-06-04T18:06:21.387" LastActivityDate="2021-06-07T06:34:56.987" Title="Can you reuse servo pins on MKS Gen L?" Tags="|stepper-driver|servo|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16444" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16438" CreationDate="2021-06-04T22:16:43.100" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As shown in the second video, the resin is used to coat a surface. The resin is clear, or appropriately tinted to provide for a visually pleasing background to the transfer. The transparency is printed on an inkjet printer which embeds the ink into a surface designed to accept the ink, rather than allowing it to bead up, as in the first video.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the transparency is applied to the wet resin surface and the resin is allowed to cure, the specially formulated transparency surface is transferred to the resin surface, akin to gluing the entire image, using the backing of the transparency &amp;quot;paper&amp;quot; as the carrier. Once cured, the backing peels off, leaving the image.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is no analogy to resin 3D printing. If you 3D print a resin model that has a suitable flat surface, you could certainly apply the same types of resin shown in the video and duplicate that process. If the surface was not flat, you'll have irregularities in the transparency which will prevent the image from being transferred.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can't envision how the inkjet image could be transferred during the 3D resin printing process, as the transparency film would interfere with the bonding of the resin to the build plate or the vat surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastActivityDate="2021-06-04T22:16:43.100" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16445" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-06-05T08:54:20.507" Score="0" ViewCount="433" Body="&lt;p&gt;I got this surface error in my prints using an Ender 5 with BLTouch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MC0dG.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;3D print with surface error&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MC0dG.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;3D print with surface error&quot; title=&quot;3D print with surface error&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My printer prints a lot and is quite old.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it possible that the steppers are done?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28731" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2021-06-05T16:27:57.843" LastActivityDate="2021-06-05T16:27:57.843" Title="Diagonal sawtooth-looking print issue" Tags="|print-quality|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16446" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16440" CreationDate="2021-06-05T13:08:02.427" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The OpenSCAD &lt;code&gt;surface&lt;/code&gt; function will do this.  You can feed it a greyscale image or a textfile containing a matrix.  Documentation and examples can be found at &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikibooks.org/wiki/OpenSCAD_User_Manual/Other_Language_Features#Surface&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://en.wikibooks.org/wiki/OpenSCAD_User_Manual/Other_Language_Features#Surface&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;OpenSCAD is a cross platform free open source cad package.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28397" LastActivityDate="2021-06-05T13:08:02.427" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16448" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-06-05T22:50:14.317" Score="1" ViewCount="176" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an UP! mini and I am using the UP Studio and ABS 1.75 mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My prints are always stuck to the rafts and are impossible to remove without destroying the print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've had a look at the settings on the Up Studio but I don't know which ones to change to improve the situation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28737" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-06-05T23:58:09.293" LastActivityDate="2021-06-10T02:20:00.403" Title="Up! mini raft sticking to prints" Tags="|abs|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16449" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16406" CreationDate="2021-06-06T03:31:30.703" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;After disconnecting and reconnecting every cable, and doing a wiggle check on each, it still didn't work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, I went ahead and replaced the BLTouch sensor with an upgrade from Amazon (Creality BL Touch V3.1 Upgraded Auto Bed Leveling Sensor Kit), and everything started working again.  Huzzah!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28641" LastActivityDate="2021-06-06T03:31:30.703" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16450" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16298" CreationDate="2021-06-06T06:37:16.097" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is something not correct in your configuration file.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You mention the use of an upgraded controller board from an MKS GEN L to a MKS GEN L v2.1.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;...the original was MKS Gen L v1.0 , the new one was an MKS Gen L v2.1...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This change of hardware is not effectively present in your configuration.h file, it currently states the use of the old board:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;// Choose the name from boards.h that matches your setup&#xA;#ifndef MOTHERBOARD&#xA;  #define MOTHERBOARD BOARD_MKS_GEN_L&#xA;#endif&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should have used the board constant called &lt;code&gt;BOARD_MKS_GEN_L_V21&lt;/code&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I honestly don't know if this could fix your problem, but at least all correct pins are then loaded and could help you start searching for the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-08-15T16:02:19.017" LastActivityDate="2021-08-15T16:02:19.017" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16451" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16298" CreationDate="2021-06-06T06:39:06.750" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have the exact same printer and had the same issue using the same probe. What fixed it for me was adding a &lt;code&gt;M420 S1&lt;/code&gt; after &lt;code&gt;G29&lt;/code&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21735" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-06-06T07:36:29.383" LastActivityDate="2021-06-06T07:36:29.383" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16453" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-06-06T15:38:50.220" Score="-1" ViewCount="95" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have noticed major watches watch brands do not seem to offer manuals to 3D print your own parts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a reason for this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would assume in this day and age, with &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.careeronestop.org/Toolkit/Careers/Occupations/occupation-profile.aspx?keyword=Watch%20repairers&amp;amp;onetcode=49906400&amp;amp;location=US&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;watch repair a dying profession&lt;/a&gt;, transitioning parts to 3D printing would be a logical next step (notice luxury watches are still very popular but &lt;a href=&quot;https://monochrome-watches.com/top-50-swiss-watch-brands-2020-market-share-sales-editorial/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;also fluctuating&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have found &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_8AvZnqt5NE&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;minimal information&lt;/a&gt; on 3D printing watches.  Maybe there is another name for this science and it's not typically fit for 3D printing?  It appears some &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.scmp.com/magazines/style/tech-design/article/2127463/how-3d-printing-changing-swiss-luxury-watchmaking&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;purists&lt;/a&gt; aren't into 3D printing.  So it appears watch parts are &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.productionmachining.com/articles/keeping-watch-on-small-parts&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;machined&lt;/a&gt; except for the small parts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8854" LastEditorUserId="8854" LastEditDate="2021-06-08T15:18:24.760" LastActivityDate="2021-06-09T05:09:57.110" Title="Metal watches 3D printing" Tags="|metal-printing|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16455" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16457" CreationDate="2021-06-06T18:50:31.673" Score="3" ViewCount="2823" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was replacing the nozzle on my E3D V6 clone and the hotend started turning so I held onto it with pliers while I tightened it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As I did this, the positive wire of the fan that clips onto the E3D V6 melted on the hotend and threw a spark. At this point, the extruder started running so I hit the power switch then unplugged the main cord.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I checked everything to see what caused it, then turned it back on once I figured out what happened and made sure everything was good. Now when it's powered on, it seems like it's still getting power; the BLTouch turns on but the screen doesn't show anything just the backlighting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Did I fry my board?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28742" LastEditorUserId="28742" LastEditDate="2021-06-07T00:20:33.453" LastActivityDate="2021-06-07T05:50:00.077" Title="Did I fry my Ender 3 V2 Main Board?" Tags="|creality-ender-3|extruder|electronics|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16456" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-06-06T20:14:49.237" Score="3" ViewCount="327" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am printing this piece using a 0.4 mm nozzle. It happens that the piece on the chin does not print properly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have already tried the tree mode supports, touching the plate and in all the places but the same thing happens.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I include photos of my configuration in Cura.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rXeqU.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Photo of print&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rXeqU.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Photo of print&quot; title=&quot;Photo of print&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Y5jNA.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Photo of bad print quality&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Y5jNA.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Photo of bad print quality&quot; title=&quot;Photo of bad print quality&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0zNft.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Settings - quality&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0zNft.png&quot; alt=&quot;Settings - quality&quot; title=&quot;Settings - quality&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/x0WTX.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Settings - speed&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/x0WTX.png&quot; alt=&quot;Settings - speed&quot; title=&quot;Settings - speed&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lM79D.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Settings - support&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lM79D.png&quot; alt=&quot;Settings - support&quot; title=&quot;Settings - support&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VyQY3.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Screenshot of Cura - showing supports&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VyQY3.png&quot; alt=&quot;Screenshot of Cura - showing supports&quot; title=&quot;Screenshot of Cura - showing supports&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28749" LastEditorUserId="28749" LastEditDate="2021-06-13T01:23:13.507" LastActivityDate="2021-06-14T12:02:38.847" Title="The chin piece of my print does not print properly" Tags="|creality-ender-3|print-quality|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16457" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16455" CreationDate="2021-06-06T22:03:25.850" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, you can damage stepper drivers when you unplug stepper motors. Hot (un)plugging of stepper cables can cause voltage spikes that can destroy the stepper drivers. Furthermore, shorting out the fan may have caused damage also to other parts of the board (voltage regulator, fuse, etc ). These controller boards are not that expensive, ordering a spare would get you up and running quickly. Also order a new fan, mind the voltage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No, pulling the power cord or switching off the controller board will not destroy the board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-06-07T05:50:00.077" LastActivityDate="2021-06-07T05:50:00.077" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16458" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-06-07T00:37:13.743" Score="1" ViewCount="59" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an Ender 3 Pro. When I print, the area that the printer goes around before printing gets stuck and I can't scrape it or use alcohol.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both of these methods are used with a heated and cooled bed. Does anyone know how to fix this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28752" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-06-07T03:30:12.430" LastActivityDate="2021-07-07T13:02:35.180" Title="Ender 3 Pro stuck print excess" Tags="|creality-ender-3|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16460" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16443" CreationDate="2021-06-07T06:34:56.987" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Have a look at the boards pinout:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5fbGs.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5fbGs.png&quot; alt=&quot;MKS Gen L pinout from MKSs github&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll need 3 pins for each additional driver - enable, step, and dir.&#xA;The AUX-2 connector should give your 8 GPIO pins for that, without losing other functionality like the display.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might also be able to wire your Y axis motors in series, saving one stepper driver. You could then use E1 and three of the four servo pins for the 2nd and 3rd Z axis stepper drivers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13171" LastActivityDate="2021-06-07T06:34:56.987" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16461" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14860" CreationDate="2021-06-07T07:51:05.187" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;disclaimer: I own a company manufacturing 3D printing resins, and all links lead to my products :)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Key reason - resin formula&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First of all, it really depends on the composition of your resin. Some of them are more brittle than others. Usually cheaper resins are more brittle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;What causes properties to change?&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That being said, some tougher resins even with some flexibility once printed can still become brittle over time. That could happen due to:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Continued exposure to UV light. It continues to cure your model and it loses its flexibility. The same goes to over-curing of your prints. If you print with longer exposure time settings than needed it will produce stiffer prints with less flexibility.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Arid environment. If the air in your environment is dry, some resins can become more brittle.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cold environment. Heat makes plastics more flexible.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;What can you do?&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Best way to protect your models from getting brittle - covering them with paint or other UV resistant coating.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also choose resins that don't become brittle over time and is less sensitive to above mentioned causes. For example our TGM-7 resin:  &lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/LPR0nNvRbg4?start=0&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28767" LastActivityDate="2021-06-07T07:51:05.187" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16462" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10339" CreationDate="2021-06-07T08:03:36.297" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You do not need to use any glue or any other adhesion modifier to increase your build plate adhesion.&#xA;Take these steps instead:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Make sure your &lt;strong&gt;build plate is level&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use proper attachment layer (&lt;strong&gt;raft&lt;/strong&gt;) - see &lt;a href=&quot;https://ameralabs.com/blog/attachment-layer-need-know/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;3D printing raft in resin 3D printing: what you need to know&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Increase &lt;strong&gt;bottom layer exposure&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Make sure your &lt;strong&gt;resin is not cold&lt;/strong&gt; (25+ °C works best)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Make sure your &lt;strong&gt;build plate is flat and even&lt;/strong&gt;. Sometimes they come faulty from the factory. Lay it flat on the glass and see if all corners touch it evenly.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Sand your build plate&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Make sure to use high &lt;strong&gt;quality FEP&lt;/strong&gt;. If it get's scratched or cloudy - change it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Make sure the &lt;strong&gt;tension of your FEP&lt;/strong&gt; is right. Not too tight, not too&#xA;loose.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28767" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2021-06-07T11:01:30.617" LastActivityDate="2021-06-07T11:01:30.617" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16463" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16456" CreationDate="2021-06-07T11:16:10.293" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I see that you have a minimum support angle of 60 degrees -- that may mean Cura Slicer isn't generating supports for that chin.  Try changing this minimum to a lower figure -- 51 degrees or lower.  From what I've read, most filaments and settings will allow 60 degrees with PLA, but this is the easy first thing to try to get that chin supported.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On looking at the photo again, I also wonder if what looks like a bad overhang print is actually supports that didn't separate as they should -- perhaps you only need to adjust your Z skip for supports to get them to come off the actual part better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Following up, I saw a likely cause for this on one of my own prints yesterday -- coincidentally on the chin of a sculpture part.  What I observed is that supports for this region, which trailed up the body (as would those for your dragon's chin), likely due to their slenderness, repeatedly got knocked over.  The support structure &amp;quot;healed&amp;quot; over several layers after each such incident, but in a very fragile condition that would again get knocked off by a nozzle brush.  The solution to this is either to enable Z-hop on retraction (so travel doesn't brush the nozzle across supports printed in the same layer), or to reorient the part so the problem support is shorter and doesn't run right alongside the actual body wall.  Z-hop has less effect on other areas of the print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28508" LastEditorUserId="28508" LastEditDate="2021-06-14T12:02:38.847" LastActivityDate="2021-06-14T12:02:38.847" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16464" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16458" CreationDate="2021-06-07T11:57:57.613" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;With PETG I use Elmer's glue sticks to form a barrier protecting my print surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When PETG stuck too hard to the print surface, I have to decide what to destroy; the print or the print surface.  Removing at room temperature can tear the print surface.  Heating the bed to 80 °C  or above softens the print, making it easier to remove, but distorts during removal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the print is already removed, you can heat the bed to make the remaining material easier to scrape off. With a glue stick, especially a washable glue stick, you can first clean off the glue stick and undercut the material on the bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15075" LastEditorUserId="15075" LastEditDate="2021-06-07T12:07:32.937" LastActivityDate="2021-06-07T12:07:32.937" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16466" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16453" CreationDate="2021-06-07T13:04:49.317" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The way you manufacture a part has enormous effects on how the mechanism around it is designed. In a complex enough mechanism you can't just replace any milled part with a 3D printed one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Furthermore, the answer to your question is already partly in &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.scmp.com/magazines/style/tech-design/article/2127463/how-3d-printing-changing-swiss-luxury-watchmaking&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;the article&lt;/a&gt; you linked:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;... the technology is not mature enough for production.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Tino Bobe)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I guess the watch casing would be the only part that could be possible or reasonable to 3D-print today but would have a distinctly different look than the original, which makes it not desirable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28122" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2021-06-08T19:30:49.307" LastActivityDate="2021-06-08T19:30:49.307" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16467" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-06-07T13:15:45.213" Score="4" ViewCount="146" Body="&lt;p&gt;With the increasing price of lumber and construction materials in the U.S., 3D-printed houses become a more viable way of building houses.  Designing the foundations of mini-houses isn't difficult.  However the foundation of a full-size house is different; the larger the more difficult.  The one piece nature of a 3D-printed house makes it almost impossible to repair if the foundation shifts.  Foundation repair is the largest home maintenance cost of existing houses.  Thus, the designs of most existing house foundations are not adequate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Usually the form for the foundation is printed, rebar is placed in the form, and the foundation poured.  Piers seem to be a most.  While shims can be added or altered on piers with pier and beam, unless the beams hold the house ridge (minimum flexing), this doesn't appear to be an option.  What are adequate designs for 3D printed houses?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Family dwellings in the U.S. usually run from 1,100 to 3000 sq.ft. (aprox. 100 to 280 sq.meters).  More common is 1500 to 2000 sq.ft. (aprox. 140 to 190 sq.meters).  Ceilings are at least 8 ft. (2.44 meters) high.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We can speculate, but a good answer would reference actual construction.  Some speculation:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Print individual wall panels on a bed flat on the ground similar to how warehouses are constructed out of wall panels.  Thus, eliminate the one piece.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;One could make concrete pier and beams in a grid pattern within the slap.  The beams would need to be ridged enough to keep the house from flexing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Structures built as transportable units would survive a shifting foundation and thus be reparable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;China 3D-prints apartments.  Their techniques may give insight into how to design house foundations for 3D printing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A 380 sq. meters (4000 sq.ft.) building is being printed in Germany, but the webpage gives no description of the foundation: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.designboom.com/architecture/first-3d-printed-apartment-building-germany-construction-peri-cobod-11-24-2020/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.designboom.com/architecture/first-3d-printed-apartment-building-germany-construction-peri-cobod-11-24-2020/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A huge foundation issue is clay soil in a climate that has both wet and dry seasons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;P.S. The wise customer will want this answered before purchasing.  The construction company would want this answered to prevent a class action lawsuit.  The industry would want this answered to avoid a setback in consumer confidence.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15075" LastEditorUserId="15075" LastEditDate="2021-06-14T14:50:11.580" LastActivityDate="2021-06-14T14:50:11.580" Title="What foundation designs are adequate for a 3D-printed one-floor building larger than 200 square meters?" Tags="|3d-design|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16468" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16448" CreationDate="2021-06-07T16:43:30.453" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Normally, the print is made to separate easily from the raft by minimizing layer adhesion between the first layer of the actual part and the last layer of the raft.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this isn't happening with your prints, you likely need to adjust some settings in your slicer.  You need to ensure that the first part layer is more than a normal layer height above the top raft layer (in Cura Slicer, I believe this would be the First Layer Thickness); this should be comparable to the Z distance allowance for supports to be removable.  You may also want or need to adjust the line width and temperature for the first part layer -- too wide a line may stick too well, and if the first layer is too hot, the same will occur.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It may require several test prints to find just the right settings, though I'd start with resetting your slicer to its default for the printer and materials you're using, and start any adjustments from that base.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28508" LastActivityDate="2021-06-07T16:43:30.453" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16469" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16472" CreationDate="2021-06-07T18:30:49.797" Score="2" ViewCount="1638" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have the community edition of the firmware for my CR-6 SE printer installed on a BigTreeTech SKR-CR6 V1.0 board. This firmware has a nice E-step calibration guide you can use to easily get the correct step/mm value.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However when I raise that value, my extruder motor starts to chop, it's like it doesn't have enough strength to push the filament through and starts chopping.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried raising the current on the extruder motor, from 600 mA which is standard, to 900 mA incrementally, but it didn't make any difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I just replaced the stock extruder with a dual gear extruder in hopes that the extruder was causing this. but the new extruder faces the same issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think raising the Vref value for the extruder motor might help, but I don't know how to do that. on the BTT SKR-CR6 V1.0 board all stepper drivers are in UART mode so there is no way to change this on the board itself. and there is no way to change Vref in the UI as far as I know.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What should I do to progress with this issue?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28674" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-06-08T12:09:22.777" LastActivityDate="2021-06-08T12:09:22.777" Title="Raising E-steps on my CR-6 SE makes the extruder choppy" Tags="|stepper-driver|creality-cr-6|skr-cr6|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16470" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16311" CreationDate="2021-06-07T19:15:05.893" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If your nozzle is worn enough that you can't read the size stamped on one of the hex flats, you need to replace it anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, the best ways I know to measure the aperture are with either a pin gage (known diameter high precision wire, find the largest that will enter the nozzle aperture), or optically -- take off the nozzle or hot end and put it on a scanner bed; use the scanner to image the nozzle at highest available resolution, then count the pixels across the opening in the image and multiply by the pixel size (for instance, if 6400 ppi, you'd multiply your pixel count by 1/6400 in/px * 25.4 mm/in).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've used the optical method to measure photographic pinholes (drilled in delicate, .001&amp;quot; thick brass shim stock) that were smaller than 0.5 mm, so I know it works in this size range.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Measuring the extruded filament may not give an accurate diameter, for two reasons -- the hot, freshly extruded material may either swell or stretch after extrusion (and may well do both in a short length of extrusion, giving varying diameter), and it's difficult to accurately measure small round samples (especially of plastic) with either micrometer or dial/digital caliper -- it's too easy to compress the sample and obtain an artificially undersize result.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28508" LastEditorUserId="28508" LastEditDate="2021-06-07T19:20:38.990" LastActivityDate="2021-06-07T19:20:38.990" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16471" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16453" CreationDate="2021-06-08T08:13:24.547" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would imagine that the main reason that &amp;quot;major watch brands&amp;quot; don't offer free models is so that they don't put themselves out of business. The same goes for car brands and most, if not all, other commercial products. After sales parts and repairs &lt;em&gt;can&lt;/em&gt; be a significant revenue earner, and if free DIY repair solutions were provided then that revenue stream would be lost. Not to mention the probable voiding of any warranties, when the owner opens the watch up, in order to attempt the repair themselves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Off the top of my head, I can't think of any commercial enterprise that offers free 3D models for parts, &lt;em&gt;unless&lt;/em&gt; they have gone out of business (and not bought out by another company) and the plans have been kindly made open-source. I came across an example of this recently, via some obscure youtube video, which was an obsolete, yet well-known, computer hardware manufacturer who had made their blueprints available (circuit diagrams, source code, etc.).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, it would require a considerable amount of additional work, by the manufacturer, for all of the individual watch parts to be separately modelled accurately (into a printable 3D file format), and just would not be profitable (nor practical, given issue of accuracy raised by &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/16466/4762&quot;&gt;the answer by Tillex72&lt;/a&gt;). In addition, and I'm guessing here and will probably be proved to be incorrect, I'd imagine that the pool of watch enthusiasts that have a 3D printer is quite small - so the target audience wouldn't be large enough to generate the demand to make it worthwhile, even if the files were made available for a considerable fee.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4762" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2021-06-08T19:33:25.427" LastActivityDate="2021-06-08T19:33:25.427" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16472" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16469" CreationDate="2021-06-08T09:28:14.717" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You cannot change the Vref of a UART operated stepper driver, setting the current directly is the way to go on UART operated stepper drivers; in fact that is actually what you are doing on non-UART operated stepper drivers, you change the Vref to change the current through the stepper motor, the higher the voltage the higher the current through the stepper the more torque the stepper has.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on the stepper you may increase the current even more, this depends on the stepper motor model/type. There are stepper motorss that allow more than 1000 mA, I don't know the steppers used in the CR6 E, find out before you test higher values.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please note that there may be something else causing this issue, possibly your filament path is having a lot of resistance. You should check the extrusion manually and possibly clean the nozzle and heat break.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;A similar question is found here: &lt;a href=&quot;/q/14002&quot;&gt;Is the Vref trimmer relevant on TMC2208 in UART mode?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2021-06-08T09:28:14.717" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16473" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16263" CreationDate="2021-06-08T12:35:33.180" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The schematic attached to the cable shows the wiring for the sensor. There is BN+, BK, BU-; these are presumably the brown, black and blue wires respectively. The schematic BN+ is the positive supply wire (should be connected to 5V) and BU- the negative wire (should be connected to ground). BK is the output wire and should be connected to the endstop signal pin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastActivityDate="2021-06-08T12:35:33.180" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16474" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16658" CreationDate="2021-06-08T18:55:36.850" Score="7" ViewCount="12570" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;tl;dr&lt;/strong&gt; How can I test whether my sporadic in-print restarts are a thermal problem or a firmware issue?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;The problem&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've had my Ender 3 (not V2 or Pro) for about a month, and gotten a number of excellent small prints with Amazon Basics and SunLu PLA, as well as Overture PETG, slicing with Cura Slicer 4.9.1; the printer has Marlin 1.0.1 according to the &amp;quot;About Printer&amp;quot; display.  I've made no electrical changes to the original hardware, though I've added a few printed parts including a mainboard fan cover, alternative power supply mount, &amp;quot;original screws&amp;quot; display PCB cover, display cable clips, filament guides, storage drawers, and drag chains protecting the cables to the X stepper and extruder/hotend.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I've had trouble for most of the time I've had the machine with sporadic reboots in the middle of a multi-hour print.  At a minimum, when I resume the print after one of these incidents, the printer will skip the rest of the current layer and start with the next, producing a weak layer (usually it also leaves a significant blob of plastic, and even if I just flatten that blob with the scraper blade as soon as the nozzle is clear, it will stick out of the print and have to be trimmed off later, and if I try to scrape the blob away while it's still soft, it'll result in layer shifts caused by skipping the Y-axis stepper).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Usually, this happens about four to six hours into a 10+ hour print, though I've seen it happen just a half hour or so after a previous occurrence, and near the end of a 65-minute print as well.  It's becoming a big issue as I venture into larger prints, as it can ruin the appearance of a print (by skipping a large fraction of a layer that's the visible surface of the part) or causing a weak layer at a stress point -- which wastes a lot of machine time as well as filament.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've also just upgraded my build surface to a Creality coated glass plate -- which is great in terms of flatness, sticks well, and the part comes off very easily when the plate cools.  Unfortunately, if I'm not in the room when the printer restarts, and the bed gets below about 40 °C, the part will unstick and will start moving with the nozzle when I resume the print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;What I've tried&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had suspected issues with my 120 V power, so I purchased &lt;a href=&quot;https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01FWAZEIU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;psc=1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;a small UPS&lt;/a&gt; to condition the power for the Ender 3 power supply, but without seeing improvement.  Prints running overnight often do better, but not always, and this happens with both PLA (nozzle temp 200 °C, bed 50 °C) and PETG (nozzle 235 °C, bed 75-78 °C).  I haven't attempted other filaments such as ABS.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm usually not watching the printer when it does this, but several times I've caught it immediately after (I can hear it running when I'm at my computer, so when it stops I can get to it in seconds), and once I happened to be watching when it stopped.  The sequence is that (usually, but not always, when printing a layer with significant infill -- for which I usually use cubic, for best strength with minimal material and time) the printer will suddenly just &lt;em&gt;stop&lt;/em&gt; with a normal info screen display for fifteen to thirty seconds (I don't have the exact time, and have only seen it early enough to have an idea a couple of times), then the display goes dark and within two or three seconds returns to the startup splash (Ender 3 dragon logo), from which it changes to the power failure recovery screen with &amp;quot;Resume Print&amp;quot; and &amp;quot;Stop Print&amp;quot; choices.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is not a reproducible error (nor am I likely to attempt repeating an overnight or whole-day print multiple times to attempt to reproduce the problem).  At no time have I noted the power supply cooling exhaust running hot, nor the steppers getting as warm as a 50 °C bed (I don't have an IR thermometer to check the actual stepper temperature).  I used a photographic thermometer to check the temperature of cooling air leaving the mainboard housing, and found it never exceeded 30 °C during the print I tested.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;My hypothesis&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm aware of two significant possible causes: overheating the mainboard, or overloading the stepper pulse loop in the firmware.  The former should (if things are designed sensibly) result in a complete shutdown, though with a hard switch on the power supply it might not be possible to prevent a restart as soon as the sensor reads below critical (which could be the fifteen to thirty seconds of &amp;quot;freeze&amp;quot; I've observed).  The latter is something I've read about, where the Marlin firmware will restart if the stepper pulse interrupt loop gets so busy the mainboard can't service the sensor interrupt loop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only way I know to test which I'm seeing is to find a way to more efficiently cool the mainboard and see if that improves the situation -- but I'm reluctant to either remove the fan cover or run the printer with the mainboard cover off; the reason for installing the fan cover was to keep fragments of plastic from getting into the mainboard housing as, being directly under the build plate, it's prone to collect strings, hairs, and scrapings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Update&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I thought I had solved this problem -- I reduced the print speed (using the &amp;quot;tune&amp;quot; menu while the print was running) to 90% (=45 mm/s instead of Cura's default 50 mm/s) and started getting longer prints without stoppages; that would have pointed to firmware loop overload as the likely cause.  Unfortunately, I still got a freeze about 10.5 hours in to a 13 hour print, but only &lt;em&gt;one&lt;/em&gt; rather than the three or so I'd have expected; this may be a clue.  Since then I've had freezes in under an hour into a new print once again, once with the bed running to Ymin (a movement not in the gcode) instead of stopping in place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Due to the required level of disassembly, I haven't attempted to test continuity while in motion on the stepper or hotend wiring, and I cut away the damaged portion of the Bowden tube when I replaced the hotend and nozzle; I get good extrusion and, when they don't stop in the middle, good smooth prints.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Update 18 June 2021&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As suggested in comments, I have initiated a &amp;quot;dry run&amp;quot; of a print that previously generated two or three of these stoppages over the course of about fourteen hours.  Original print was Overture clear PETG, nozzle at 235 °C and bed at 75 °C.  For this &amp;quot;print&amp;quot; I've retracted the PLA loaded into the machine well clear of the hotend and unplugged the extruder stepper; when I get home from work, I'll be able to see if the machine is still running, and if it has restarted, resuming the print will allow me to tell how long it ran before the incident.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Test Result&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is unexpected.  I thought I'd either find the machine still running, or with the power failure resume screen asking to &amp;quot;Resume Print&amp;quot; or &amp;quot;Stop Print&amp;quot; -- instead, I came home from work, some 10 hours after starting the dry run test, to find the printer idle, as if I'd had it properly shut off and then turned the power on.  No way to tell when it stopped or why.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Further Update, June 20&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had another of the new type of failure on an overnight print; I was printing PETG (Sun Lu brand), 240 °C nozzle and 75 °C bed, back on my magnetic textured build sheet because the PETG was warping and coming up from the coated glass -- and when I got up this morning the printer &lt;em&gt;should&lt;/em&gt; have still been running, at around 90% complete, but instead it was sitting at the Info Screen, nozzle and bed both reading room ambient temperature with set point 0 °C.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can only presume that either the &amp;quot;resume print&amp;quot; option has a limited life (though I've seen it at what must have been eight or nine hours after the print stopped and print progress in this case suggests it had only stopped four hours or so before I came back), or I'm getting a second interrupt from the resume screen that's causing the printer to return to &amp;quot;fresh power on&amp;quot; state.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm reluctant to pursue further warranty help from the Amazon seller because of the hassle of returning a machine I've customized and my feeling that this is an easy fix if I can just determine &lt;em&gt;what&lt;/em&gt; to fix.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Followup, June 21&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm starting to believe my machine is haunted.  Over the past twenty-four hours, I've had about twenty-one continuous hours of printing, completely successful (in terms of the machine continuing to run; I've got some corner lifting on the print that was running when I left for work this morning, but that's print settings and/or material vs. build surface).  I was more than ten hours into a twelve-plus hour print when I left this morning, and completely a nine and a half hour print yesterday without incident.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In other words, it almost seems as if the problem has resolved.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My partner half jokingly suggested the cats might be somehow resetting the machine, but I don't see any way they could.  Just poking at the Ender 3 control knob won't do anything, and even if they managed to turn the knob and poke it again, if they initiated a &amp;quot;stop print&amp;quot; the machine would retract, lift the nozzle, and home the X and Y.  If they batted at the power switch (which is after the UPS) and got it to momentarily break power, I'd expect to find the &amp;quot;resume print&amp;quot; screen -- and further, this has happened when I'm in the same room and the sequence isn't compatible with a power break.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Additional Followup 22 June 2021&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I thought the machine was back to trying to make a liar out of me, after getting around 27 hours of failure-free prints -- and then it stopped at about 60% of a 2 1/2 hour print in PLA, glass bed, at 200 °C nozzle and 50 °C bed, 10% gryroid infill.  It was printing fine when I went to bed, and when I got up I found it at the info screen (not the resume print choice screen), with the nozzle stuck to the infill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Additional information 26 June 2021&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was able to take a few minutes to open the main board housing while installing belt tensioners today -- I was slightly startled to discover that despite shipping with Marlin 1.0.1 (correction: it's 2.0.1-V1.0.1, 32-bit build and the newest available from Creality for this mainboard), the mainboard is the 32-bit version 4.2.2.  While this is not the most current version, it is the board that was introduced with the Ender 3 V2 in 2020 and almost immediately added to the Ender 3 Pro, and can be updated through the MicroSD or via the USB port.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm told (via discussion on the Ender 3 group at Thingiverse) that this rules out firmware overload, as the 32-bit boards are both much faster computationally, and have significantly larger on-board RAM and EEPROM.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also went over the electrical connections on the mainboard; I found two of the screw terminals weren't as tight as I'd make them (this is probably a result of using tinned wire instead of crimped ferrules); I also was able to push down one of the stepper driver outputs (not sure which one), which wasn't fully seated (though surely making contact, since I've had all steppers operational any time the machine wasn't resetting itself).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately, tightening the slightly loose screw connections helped nothing; though I was able to complete a 1 1/2 hour print flawlessly, I had two consecutive failures several hours into a 7 1/2 hour print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My next thing to check is internals in the power supply.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;June 29 update&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Power supply check showed perfect 24.0 V output, but I found the two spade terminals on the power switch itself were loose enough to move around with a little tug on the wire.  They were making good contact, as far as I could tell, and required effort to pull off the spade on the switch, but once things heat up after some time under load (running X and Y steppers and bed heater at the same time, for instance, along with near-constant nozzle heat) they might well have gotten looser -- and since I moved the power supply off the vertical extrusion to a pair of printed brackets to improve clearance between the magnetic build sheet and power supply, it does move around a bit when the machine is printing (especially with the rapid direction changes of infill).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On that basis, I disconnected both wires and squeezed the terminals with pliers to close them up a little; they were very tight when I reconnected them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Too early to be sure, but the machine finished a 7.5 hour print flawlessly after this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Update June 30&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It was better -- I got &lt;em&gt;two&lt;/em&gt; 7.5 hour prints in a row without a failure.  Printed a spacer to allow quick switch between magnetic build surface sheet and glass (clips onto X gantry plate to trigger the Z-stop with the nozzle higher by exactly the extra thickness of the glass plate).  Too thick; easier to reprint than to sand or scrape enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Machine stopped at the same spot &lt;em&gt;while printing the skirt&lt;/em&gt; three attempts in a row.  This is less than one minute into the print.  Further, doesn't reboot, just freezes until I power it off, then comes back up with &amp;quot;resume&amp;quot; dialog.  Tried to reslice, thinking it might be a bad g-code file, and the microSD won't mount on my desktop computer, though it still seems to read okay in the printer and another (full size) SD card mounts on the same USB port and hub (and the problem card doesn't mount even in the microSD slot in the other reader).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This last doesn't appear to be related to the original problem: the microSD had seemingly gotten disconnected without &amp;quot;safely remove&amp;quot; procedure, and Ubuntu apparently isn't capable of recovering from this; that resulted in a corrupted gcode file causing these most recent, very early stoppages, as well as the inability to mount the storage device.  Reformatting the storage device corrected that problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Question?&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What other tests can I run to differentiate between a thermal restart and a firmware overload?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28508" LastEditorUserId="28508" LastEditDate="2021-07-02T12:20:25.543" LastActivityDate="2022-02-15T00:35:46.833" Title="Why is my Ender 3 restarting spontaneously in mid print?" Tags="|creality-ender-3|firmware|hardware|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="18" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16478" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16456" CreationDate="2021-06-09T06:39:56.943" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You need to zoom in on the layers where the support is being generated and check if there is actually support being generated under that area.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally, I noticed your support generation setting is &amp;quot;Touching build plate only&amp;quot;. You should change this  setting to 'everywhere' because it could be that build plate support cannot directly reach the area in question (so a portion of it is residing over an already printed surface). With this setting changed though, double check the rest of your print is not generating unecesssary supports, and if it is, use support blocker feature to get rid of them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And as a last thought, after changing the setting i mentioned above, also play around with overhang angle and carefully observe how the rendering of the support structures changes (like, really zoom in those gaps and check).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6330" LastEditorUserId="6330" LastEditDate="2021-06-09T07:03:39.610" LastActivityDate="2021-06-09T07:03:39.610" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16479" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16448" CreationDate="2021-06-09T06:56:52.773" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There doesn't seem to be much documentation on that particular proprietary software, but in conventional slicers, the setting you are looking for is called the &amp;quot;raft air gap&amp;quot;. This should be a distance value slightly higher than your regular layer height.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So if printing with 0.2 mm layer height, do 0.28 mm or something of the sort. Check to see if your UP studio slicer has advanced settings and find something along those lines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6330" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-06-10T02:20:00.403" LastActivityDate="2021-06-10T02:20:00.403" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16480" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-06-09T07:50:27.873" Score="4" ViewCount="2922" Body="&lt;p&gt;There seems to be &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.propsandarmor.com/3d-printing/how-to-maximize-your-3d-printers-stability/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;general consensus&lt;/a&gt; that, among other things, a sturdy table is important for print quality.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Within reason, I don't understand why a wobbly table would be bad. Has anyone done a controlled study/investigation on how wobbliness affects print quality?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ringing artifacts seem to be what people think platform sturdiness helps with. But the frequencies of these artifacts seem to be broadly in the range of 40-100 Hz. The resonance of a cheap fold-out table is seems much lower than that - perhaps 10 Hz or less. And intuitively, it seems that a 10 Hz resonance would have to be &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; energetic to significantly affect the motion of the extruder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;YouTube links, written studies, or personal experience welcome!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3967" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-06-09T08:01:23.460" LastActivityDate="2021-06-09T13:54:24.573" Title="Does a sturdy table really matter?" Tags="|print-quality|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16481" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16480" CreationDate="2021-06-09T08:35:45.150" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;A clear answer is not available, since no one performed a proper test as of June 2021.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The closest answer I can provide is that damping feet result in a change of vibration behaviour, as discussed in this &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/KevinOConnor/klipper/issues/3027#issuecomment-766413833&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Klipper issue report&lt;/a&gt;. How it's not clear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I paste some of the findings:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I took several measurements with different configurations and the&#xA;results are quite surprising IMO. The following graphs show the&#xA;respective vibration results for (from left to right):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1- The retrofit back to the standard hard rubber feet&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2- The printer&#xA;only standing on the &amp;quot;feet clamps&amp;quot; as shown in the picture above&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3-&#xA;The printer standing on the &amp;quot;feet clamps&amp;quot; but with squash balls&#xA;inserted&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;X-Axis&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gr9pe.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gr9pe.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Configuration 2 vs 3:&#xA;The damping is causing an additional spike at ~76 Hz;&#xA;Power-Spectral-Density is roughly the same;&#xA;Overall vibration is a bit lower in the damped version (11.4 % vs 16% @ 3hump_ei) --&amp;gt; Probably due to damping the additional spike;&#xA;A bit surprisingly the shaper recommendation is identical&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Configuration 1 (original feet) drives Power-Spectral-Density from e3&#xA;range to e4 range&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Configuration 1 brought back a dominant spike at&#xA;around 75 Hz to 80 Hz (which was surprisingly gone with the printer&#xA;sitting on the hard and small area of the &amp;quot;feet clamps&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Configuration&#xA;1 nearly tripled the spike at 75 Hz to 80 Hz compared to No. 3&#xA;(Power-Spectral-Density 12,000 vs 4,200) The spike at around 30 Hz&#xA;stayed pretty much the same&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Y-Axis&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XvQwz.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XvQwz.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The effect on the Y-axis is pretty small&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;My conclusions&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The resonance effects very much depend on the type of feet&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For&#xA;whatever reason every damping in the feet resulted in worse vibration&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to know more about it, install Klipper and an ADXL345 accelerometer, make measurements, write a blog post or post here in a new answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I may be able to do it within within the year. It's a loose deadline, yes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a printer on a wobbly table, but I haven't performed measurements yet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I expect it to be better than a stiff table, since part of the energy is dissipated by the table and not by the printer frame (we are not talking about independent feet, but table as a whole), resulting in better quality at high acceleration. Of course if your printer runs at 500-1500 mm/s^2 you won't see anything. If you run at 5000+ mm/s^2, then...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2338" LastEditorUserId="2338" LastEditDate="2021-06-09T13:54:24.573" LastActivityDate="2021-06-09T13:54:24.573" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16482" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14264" CreationDate="2021-06-09T09:06:24.907" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;NTC Thermistors can fail progressively due to moisture, cracking, changes in the material structure. Don't forget that you are operating them at neat the maximum temperature, not at room temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S0026271401000270&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this article&lt;/a&gt; about NTC resistors for current limiting (subjected to current pulses, but tested also for high temperature stress) they say:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Process of degradation of NTC thermistors has complex character and&#xA;is, in considerable degree, determined by the total number of applied&#xA;current impulses or thermal cycles. Initial rise of resistance is&#xA;caused probably by oxidation process or modification of ionic&#xA;distribution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Luckily, after an initial burn-in, they are stable for quite some time. You may just need to recalibrate. Or use a PT1000 resistor which should not have similar issues, and which works without any additional electronics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See also &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.tdk-electronics.tdk.com/download/531116/19643b7ea798d7c4670141a88cd993f9/%20pdf-general-technical-information.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; for a statement by a manufacturer that NTC ages:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At room temperature the polycrystalline material shows solid-state&#xA;reactions which lead to an irreversible change in the characteristics&#xA;(usually resistance increase, change of B value etc). Physical reasons&#xA;for this may be thermal stress causing a change in concentration of&#xA;lattice imperfections, oxygen exchange with the environment (with&#xA;unprotected, non-glass-encapsulated thermistors) or diffusion in the&#xA;contact areas of metallized surface contacts. At low temperatures&#xA;these reactions slow down, but at high temperatures they accelerate&#xA;and finally decline with time. To enhance long-term stability, our NTC&#xA;thermistors can be subjected to an aging process directly after&#xA;manufacture.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See this graph from &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.researchgate.net/publication/227091056_Electrical_properties_of_NTC_thermistors_made_of_manganite_ceramics_of_general_spinel_structure_Mn3_-_x_-_x%27MxNx%27O4_0_x_x%27_1_M_and_N_being_Ni_Co_or_Cu_Aging_phenomenon_study/figures?lo=1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this page&lt;/a&gt; for drift as function of time and temperature:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/slNfv.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/slNfv.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2338" LastEditorUserId="2338" LastEditDate="2021-06-09T09:11:45.637" LastActivityDate="2021-06-09T09:11:45.637" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16483" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-06-09T14:35:35.510" Score="1" ViewCount="179" Body="&lt;p&gt;All the blower fans for part cooling I've seen rotate counter-clockwise when viewed from the intake side. I'm looking to replace mine on an Ender 3 with something stronger, and one of the worst parts of the stock design is that it's offset by about 20 mm versus the nozzle position, requiring awkward duct paths that reduce the flow to get uniform coverage around the newly extruded material. A fan that rotates in the opposite direction, with air exiting on the right-hand size when viewed from the intake side, would be exactly right. Are there such models available, and if so, what is the right terminology to search for them by? Or is there a simple way to modify a fan to reverse its direction?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2021-06-10T05:36:54.567" Title="Are part cooling fans available in opposite orientation?" Tags="|cooling|print-fan|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2021-06-11T04:55:04.763" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16484" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16483" CreationDate="2021-06-09T15:03:17.780" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;They exist, but maybe only for industrial use and not so compact. Look for &amp;quot;clockwise&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://barkerbille.com/technology/designation-of-position/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://barkerbille.com/technology/designation-of-position/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could carve the back side of a normal blower with some openings (make a grid out of it) and obstruct the original inlet (or leave both open...).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2338" LastActivityDate="2021-06-09T15:03:17.780" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16485" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-06-09T15:39:24.430" Score="1" ViewCount="31" Body="&lt;p&gt;For some weeks I noticed really odd behaviour on my OctoPi controlled Anet A8. I'm using an MKS Gen L board with TMC2208 on this and constellation worked for a year now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When starting a print, I noticed the movements were really fast in spite of having an extra slow first layer. I adjust the feed rate to 100 % in Octoprint and it works normal. The final print has noticeable imperfections as it moves up. I check the feed rate after the print and it's at like 594 %. My G-code wouldn't specify such a value and I didn't find any related commands in there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Further, if the printer is idle and I set &lt;code&gt;M220 S100&lt;/code&gt; it returns FR:100 % when asked. If I make a homing move, wait and ask again, the value steadily rises. First FR:102 %, then FR:105 % after a minute and so on...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Gm5jh.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Gm5jh.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;OctoPi Terminal&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think this behaviour might have started after using a G-code post-processed in Cura for different feed rates.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone have an idea how to tackle this? The printer was switched off several times already. If I implement an &lt;code&gt;M220&lt;/code&gt; in the start G-code I assume it will still rise during the print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28826" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-06-10T02:19:37.723" LastActivityDate="2021-06-10T02:19:37.723" Title="Odd behaviour of steady feedrate increase" Tags="|marlin|g-code|anet-a8|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16486" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16490" CreationDate="2021-06-09T18:03:51.610" Score="1" ViewCount="623" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Prusa i3 Mk3s with an MMU2s on it. And to be frank, as far as the MMU goes, I have not had much luck with it.  I've seen people print amazing MMU prints and it works great for them, but I have had MUCH less success.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If a print requires 900 filament changes to go back and forth between colors, even if I have the MMU dialed-in to work 99 % of the time, well that's still 9 failures in that print. I'm sure there are things I could do to dial it in, but I have a different question for now:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have other printers I work with that have dual extruders and work great, and I've been eyeballing an IDEX kit for my Ender 3, which got me thinking that there's gotta be a way to put IDEX on a Prusa.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was also eyeballing my MMU and thinking I could scrap it for parts (stepper motors etc) for the IDEX.  I did a quick Google search and couldn't really find anything, but is there a reason for that?  Is the control board not able to handle it, etc?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15186" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-06-09T18:41:31.370" LastActivityDate="2021-06-09T21:44:58.287" Title="Can a Prusa be converted to IDEX?" Tags="|prusa-i3|dual-nozzle|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16487" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16489" CreationDate="2021-06-09T18:37:26.703" Score="1" ViewCount="1378" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an Ender 3, currently in stock Bowden extruder configuration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to be able to print nylon and TPU, both of which require temperature too high for the tolerance of the PTFE Bowden tube (as well as the issues with the flexible filament in the tube).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Therefore, I've considered converting my printer to direct drive.  However, the conversions I've seen, both DIY/print the parts type and commercial, seem to include a short length of the same PTFE tube between the extruder (now mounted on the hot end carriage) and the actual hot end.  This same material ought to have the same temperature limit (about 250 C) as it would have in a Bowden configuration -- and for nylon, at the least, this is a problem, since the PTFE would start to soften from contact with the heat break.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Am I missing something in these conversions, or is the PTFE's glass transition not the limiting factor in printing hotter with a direct drive conversion?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28508" LastActivityDate="2021-06-10T19:33:00.980" Title="How does direct drive conversion allow higher print temperatures?" Tags="|creality-ender-3|hotend|nylon|tpu|direct-drive|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16488" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-06-09T19:21:49.500" Score="2" ViewCount="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;For my printer (3DGence Double255) there is no ready to use Cura profile available. So I started to edit one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Until now I left the start code for the two extruders empty. But, the machine is printing everything with extruder 1.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now I am wondering if the printer needs a special extruder change command in the start code.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And what would be the end code?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28813" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2021-06-10T02:20:45.040" LastActivityDate="2021-06-10T02:20:45.040" Title="Extruder 2 is not printing" Tags="|extruder|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16489" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16487" CreationDate="2021-06-09T20:39:04.393" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Direct Drive v.s. Bowden has no relation to the maximum print temperature. What determines the maximum print temperature is the design of the hotend itself. There are &amp;quot;all-metal&amp;quot; designs, where the PTFE tube (Bowden or not) stops in the cold zone and the heatbreak and all other components that get hot are fully made of metal. Other hotend designs have the PTFE tube run all the way down into the hot zone and this limits the maximum printing temperature. It has nothing to do with whether the hotend is Bowden or not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastActivityDate="2021-06-09T20:39:04.393" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16490" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16486" CreationDate="2021-06-09T21:44:58.287" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It would require an adaptation so extensive that I would define it &amp;quot;rebuild&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You would end up savaging basically only the bare frame and the steppers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not aware, in fact, of anyone ever doing it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2338" LastActivityDate="2021-06-09T21:44:58.287" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16491" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-06-10T00:28:41.673" Score="0" ViewCount="188" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm using PrusaSlicer 2.3.1 on a custom delta.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm printing a basic 25x25 mm cubic shell for calibration purposes. It keeps setting the print speed to 20 mm/sec despite there being no speed specifically that low (well, except gaps, but these walls are presented as external perimeters in the post-slice viewer.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've also ensured the minimum printing speed (cooling section) is 30 mm/s, and set the 'slow down if print is below' to like 1 second but it refuses to change.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In fact, I just turned off all auto-cooling and the software didn't even require a re-slice! I jogged the position a hair which forces a reslice but the end result is the same.  This refusal to require a reslice has been showing up a lot lately, never had this kind of problem in the original Slic3r I've been using for years.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28836" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-06-10T05:32:33.670" LastActivityDate="2021-06-10T05:32:33.670" Title="PrusaSlicer not making sense" Tags="|prusaslicer|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16492" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-06-10T02:35:28.067" Score="1" ViewCount="289" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am building a large printer that needs 3 independent Z-stepper motors that will home with a BLTouch and 2 Y-stepper motors with an endstop for each side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can use the &lt;code&gt;E1&lt;/code&gt; for the extra Y and I plan on adding two external stepper drivers for the two extra Z-stepper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There should be 8 free pins in AUX-2 to add the two stepper drivers. I purchased some stepper expansion boards and will be using the same A4988 stepper drivers as the rest of the motors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The hard part is figuring out how to modify Marlin to recognize the new steppers. I also need to get it to do a 2 stepper Y-homing sequence.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27229" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-06-10T03:14:49.473" LastActivityDate="2021-06-10T03:14:49.473" Title="Help adding additional stepper drivers to Marlin" Tags="|marlin|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16493" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16483" CreationDate="2021-06-10T04:53:57.530" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Commenting on the idea of changing the air holes, that could work for either the intakes OR the outputs, depends on how the fan is built. The exit port might be easier to cut out with a dremel or something, then tape over the old exit hole.  The intake zones tend to be large and any kind of obstruction rather than a fully open face would not be recommended.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28836" LastActivityDate="2021-06-10T04:53:57.530" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16494" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16483" CreationDate="2021-06-10T05:36:54.567" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is probably a stupid answer, but wouldn't switching the ground and hot pins cause the fan to blow the other way. (Which wouln't do much without reversing the blades)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28842" LastActivityDate="2021-06-10T05:36:54.567" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16495" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7194" CreationDate="2021-06-10T09:21:58.977" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is it possible to make the hole larger, put the brass insert with a pre-installed screw inside the hole, fill the area with resin and cure with UV lamp?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28850" LastActivityDate="2021-06-10T09:21:58.977" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16496" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16456" CreationDate="2021-06-10T09:54:37.310" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is caused by insufficient support under the whole chin, incorrect slicer settings and the fact that the chin is an overhang than isn't connected to the model at the lower layers (this means that an island is printed in a sea of support that later becomes a peninsula).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The model is a Pokenmon called Dragonite which was found on &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3962846/files&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Thingiverse&lt;/a&gt;. When sliced with the tree support option (note that tree support has been an advanced experimental option probably due to the issues with this support type) Cura builds a tree-like structure of which the stem/branch spreads out just before printing the island of the chin:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jrJbY.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jrJbY.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem is that the created support isn't enough for the print settings you are using. E.g. from a different view, you can see that part of the chin is unsupported with this support (note that the chin is also pretty flat, so each consecutive outer wall of each layer doesn't have the best contact with the previous layer, this is something you encounter when you print a sphere or rounded corners, that is why chamfers are preferred over rounded corners on bottom layers):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eE6xn.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eE6xn.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As seen in the latter image, there is quite some distance of the outer wall perimeter that is printed without support and minimal adhesion to the previous layer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To deal with this you need to dial in the printer for this filament, i.e. do not print too hot, and use sufficient part cooling. Also be aware that you print the inner walls before the outer walls. You can also choose a different type of support, but that could result in supports that are stuck to the model, which are not easy to remove and possibly leave scars. Rotating the model around the X-axis can also be an option I've used successfully on printing miniatures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2021-06-10T09:54:37.310" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16499" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-06-10T11:38:30.490" Score="0" ViewCount="8572" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to use software UART for TMC2209 steppers on a BigTreeTech v1.2 and apply that to my Robin Nano v.1.1 using Klipper firmware.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I declared a different pin for every driver and I edit my &lt;code&gt;printer.cfg&lt;/code&gt; in this way:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;[tmc2209 stepper_x]&#xA;uart_pin: PA10&#xA;run_current:  0.75&#xA;hold_current: 0.4&#xA;stealthchop_threshold: 9999&#xA;interpolate: true&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;[tmc2209 stepper_y]&#xA;uart_pin: PA9&#xA;run_current:  0.75&#xA;hold_current: 0.4&#xA;stealthchop_threshold: 9999&#xA;interpolate: true&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;[tmc2209 stepper_z]&#xA;uart_pin: PC7&#xA;run_current:  0.75&#xA;hold_current: 0.4&#xA;stealthchop_threshold: 1&#xA;interpolate: true&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;[tmc2209 extruder]&#xA;uart_pin: PC13&#xA;run_current: 0.3&#xA;stealthchop_threshold: 1&#xA;interpolate: true&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I watched this &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?app=desktop&amp;amp;v=7ShcFKXrVHo&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;video&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CIHMm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CIHMm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I have this error:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Unable to read TMC UART 'extruder' register IFCNT&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why is this happening?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28855" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-06-10T13:04:47.713" LastActivityDate="2021-11-08T09:07:15.653" Title="&quot;Unable to read TMC UART 'extruder' register IFCNT&quot; - Klipper and Robin Nano" Tags="|firmware|wire-type|klipper|tmc2209|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16501" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16487" CreationDate="2021-06-10T14:28:27.723" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Bowden tubes extending to the nozzle to make a seal will damage the Teflon (PTFE) tube if exceeding  250°C for an extended time.  An all-metal hotend for a Bowden would have either the nozzle sealed against the heatbreak or an integrated nozzle and heatbreak.  Then the Bowden tube would attach with a minimum gape with either the heatbreak or heatsink.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: The heater block needs to be at the maximum operating temperature When making a seal between the nozzle and heatbreak.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15075" LastActivityDate="2021-06-10T14:28:27.723" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16502" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16504" CreationDate="2021-06-10T15:15:37.933" Score="1" ViewCount="75" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I have printed multiple benchies with various slicer settings. I have also made sure my bed is leveled well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But no matter what I do, I get these over extrusion whenever my nozzle is moving in diagonals (left-right). It's always this same angle where it goes wrong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has anyone else who has faced this and has figured out know what the issue can be? I'm new to 3D printing so the help would be very much appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/e2TMY.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/e2TMY.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Picture of sample extrusion problem&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28860" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-06-10T21:53:22.933" LastActivityDate="2021-06-11T06:34:52.417" Title="Prints have over extrusion only during diagonals" Tags="|extrusion|3d-printerworks|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16504" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16502" CreationDate="2021-06-11T03:20:42.910" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The issue was that the X-axis belt was super loose, figured it after someone pointed it out on &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/comments/nwpxux/prints_have_over_extrusion_only_during_diagonals/h1akrax?utm_source=share&amp;amp;utm_medium=web2x&amp;amp;context=3&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Reddit&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;swordfish45&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You have an extremely loose x belt. That's the root cause of all your problems I can see in these pics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28860" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-06-11T06:34:52.417" LastActivityDate="2021-06-11T06:34:52.417" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16505" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-06-11T04:38:52.547" Score="0" ViewCount="402" Body="&lt;p&gt;I need to add two external stepper drivers to my MKS Gen L board. I am using &lt;code&gt;E1&lt;/code&gt; as an extra Y-axis and that is working great. I have three Z motors and I want to move them independently if I can.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am using:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;pins &lt;code&gt;63&lt;/code&gt;, &lt;code&gt;40&lt;/code&gt;, and &lt;code&gt;42&lt;/code&gt; for &lt;code&gt;Z2&lt;/code&gt;, and;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;pins &lt;code&gt;59&lt;/code&gt;, &lt;code&gt;64&lt;/code&gt;, and &lt;code&gt;44&lt;/code&gt; for &lt;code&gt;Z3&lt;/code&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I step up the pins in Marlin and set it to use three motors but when try to move Z only the normal Z motor moves, i.e. the default on-board z stepper driver.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What else do I need to do?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28874" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2021-06-11T14:50:56.557" LastActivityDate="2021-06-11T14:50:56.557" Title="Using external stepper driver" Tags="|marlin|stepper|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16506" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16507" CreationDate="2021-06-11T04:44:00.000" Score="2" ViewCount="2107" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just assembled Ender 3 and noticed that the X-axis movement doesn't correspond to the commands. When I make it move 1 mm with the encoder it moves 16 mm. Everything is in the &amp;quot;out of the box&amp;quot; configuration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The current steps/mm for the X-axis read (from the display) 80 steps/mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Am I supposed to manually fix this with steps per mm setting or could it be another problem. Other axes seem to work fine. I also double checked and everything should be built correctly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28875" LastEditorUserId="28875" LastEditDate="2021-06-11T10:09:17.707" LastActivityDate="2021-06-11T22:12:11.473" Title="Creality Ender 3 -X-axis moves too much" Tags="|creality-ender-3|x-axis|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16507" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16506" CreationDate="2021-06-11T07:02:28.937" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;To answer your question explicitly,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Am I supposed to manually fix this with steps per mm setting&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;No&lt;/strong&gt;, you should only do that if the incorrect value has been set, the reported value of 80 corresponds to the values found in all &lt;code&gt;configuration.h&lt;/code&gt; files for the boards used by the Ender 3. This value implies the use of stepper drivers with a 1/16 micro-stepping value.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;or could it be another problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Yes&lt;/strong&gt;, due to the value of 80 being set, there seems to be a problem with the electronics, this can be a jumper issue or a soldering issue. As this is an &amp;quot;out-of-the-box&amp;quot; issue, you should notify your vendor that the printer isn't functioning properly before you screw it open, it might void the warranty as this is not something you expect from an &amp;quot;out-of-the-box&amp;quot; 3D printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;The following text is added for a more complete answer to look up the value (initially, the question did not mention this), this is left for others that may stumble upon this question.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can check these values from the printer LCD (stepper settings menu) or by attaching a console (&lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10573/what-is-a-printer-console-terminal&quot;&gt;What is a printer console/terminal?&lt;/a&gt;) over USB and enter &lt;a href=&quot;https://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M092.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;G-code &lt;code&gt;M92&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/a&gt; (or for older Marlin versions &lt;a href=&quot;https://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M503.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;code&gt;M503&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/a&gt; without any parameters as the Marlin documentation states:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Get the current steps-per-unit settings using &lt;code&gt;M92&lt;/code&gt; with no parameters or &lt;code&gt;M503&lt;/code&gt; on older versions of Marlin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The response will give you the values of the steps/mm for all steppers. The value for the X-axis should be 80 (default) according to the Marlin &lt;code&gt;Configurations-release-2.0.7.2&lt;/code&gt; for the Ender 3 printer (note that there are multiple controller boards, so micro-stepping value can be an issue).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you need to change the value, you need to use &lt;code&gt;M92 X[value]&lt;/code&gt; to change the value, use &lt;code&gt;M500&lt;/code&gt; to store the value. Be sure to note which controller board you have, what micro-stepping value is used (1/16, 1/32, etc.). Note that &lt;a href=&quot;https://blog.prusaprinters.org/calculator_3416/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;specific calculators&lt;/a&gt; exist to assist you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Based on the comment, the value is already 80, so that should be correct, you really need to check if the board is using micro-stepping, it appears it isn't using this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could also test a self generated G-code file containing:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;G28 ; home print head&#xA;G1 X0 Y0 Z2 F500 ; move to the origin at slightly higher position&#xA;G1 X10 Y10 ; move 10 mm in X and Y, if incorrect the machine is at (150, 10) or possibly (160, 10) -&amp;gt; this will hint to micro-stepping issue (full steps, not using 1/16 micro-stepping)&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The benefit of using this G-code is that it will amplify the movement by tenfold, if there is a micro-stepping issue, it is easier to measure the movement of the head, a difference of 0 -&amp;gt; 150 &lt;em&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1)&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/em&gt; or 160 is easier measured than 0 -&amp;gt; 15 &lt;em&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1)&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/em&gt; (or 16). If the controller board uses jumpers to set the micro-stepping mode, there might be incorrectly placed. This also tests if the Y-axis is suffering of the same issue, else the print head will be located at (150, 10) &lt;em&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1)&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/em&gt; or (160, 10).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1)&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/em&gt; &lt;em&gt;Note that the original question mentioned 15 mm prior to the more logical 16 mm&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-06-11T22:12:11.473" LastActivityDate="2021-06-11T22:12:11.473" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16508" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16499" CreationDate="2021-06-11T07:59:54.300" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had the same issue. In general, that means that the pins you specified doesn't work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&amp;quot;I declared a different pin for every driver&amp;quot;: you don't need just &amp;quot;different pins&amp;quot;, you need the CORRECT pins. Check if you specified the correct ones: below the SKR the pins are labelled.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And then check that the TMC module has the UART pin(s) (there are two) are connected to the chip! the TMC modules often are sold with three empty pads on the lower side of the PCB. The central one goes to the chip, then each other pad goes to one pin. You need to bridge with solder the central one and the pad for the pin you want to use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the following image you can (barely) see that the central pad near the red line is bridged with the upper one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Yvnt2.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Yvnt2.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, for the extruder the stealthchop threshold should be 0, not 1! you don't want stealthchop for the extruder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2338" LastActivityDate="2021-06-11T07:59:54.300" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16509" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16506" CreationDate="2021-06-11T08:57:22.133" Score="0" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I make it move 1 mm with the encoder it moves more like 15 mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;15 is suspiciously close to 16. Perhaps the motor driver is operating in full step mode rather than microstepping. This could be due to a manufacturing defect in the electronics. To diagnose this you would need a multimeter to measure the voltage on the microstepping select pins of the affected motor driver.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some main boards have jumpers to select the microstepping mode. I am not entirely sure but I don't think the main board that comes with the Ender 3 has them, but (in case I am mistaken) it could be worth checking that you did not forget to put any jumpers in place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To fix the problem you could also reduce the steps/mm from 80 to 5 but operating in full step mode would seriously degrade print quality, so it is preferrable to find the root cause.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastActivityDate="2021-06-11T08:57:22.133" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16511" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16679" CreationDate="2021-06-11T23:40:55.463" Score="3" ViewCount="2559" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have recently started printing with Polymaker's PolyMax PETG on my Ender 3 v2. I have not been able to get the layer adhesion anywhere near as strong as it should be. I would guess it is around 20-25 % of the strength in the XY direction. The parts snap easily along the layer lines under loads that PLA and nylon hold up to just fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Print settings:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;0.15 mm layers @ 35-20 mm/s&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hotend temp 245 °C&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;4 mm retraction @ 40 mm/s&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;combing on&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;jerk control on&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;no cooling&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I made sure to use a nickel-plated brass 0.4 mm nozzle. I have calibrated my E-steps and tried printing in an enclosure, but nothing seems to help with layer adhesion. I have made sure there is no debris getting on the filament as it comes out of the drybox and even tried taping around the heater block so there is absolutely no part cooling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas as to what I could be doing wrong?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28896" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-06-12T02:11:15.687" LastActivityDate="2021-07-17T02:41:30.163" Title="PETG layer adhesion problems" Tags="|creality-ender-3|adhesion|petg|print-strength|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16512" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14167" CreationDate="2021-06-12T01:10:41.500" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I find bed adhesion is fine with blue tape at 70 °C. PETG doesn't like to be squished onto the bed like PLA, so try using something like a business card to level the bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Try printing with a brim (I believe what you used in the picture is a skirt; you want the one that is attached to the part) and start with no cooling. Ramp up cooling to the minimum you need for good print quality.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28896" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-06-12T02:11:05.780" LastActivityDate="2021-06-12T02:11:05.780" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16513" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16511" CreationDate="2021-06-12T04:20:42.150" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had this problem with my Ender 3 until I changed to a different extruder and now PETG never has adhesion problems. Even 100 % fan is fine at 245 °C. I think the stock hobbed gear just slips on PETG really badly, giving underextrusion. Go slow, increase the flow to compensate, and possibly increase temperature slightly more. Or buy a decent extruder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-06-12T06:09:54.870" LastActivityDate="2021-06-12T06:09:54.870" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16514" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16515" CreationDate="2021-06-12T04:41:03.403" Score="1" ViewCount="515" Body="&lt;p&gt;The hot end set-up for my printer consist of 2 Titan Aero extruders. The printer relies on Reprap firmware and a Duet 3 controller board. When I finish setting everything up, my primary extruder will use ABS and my secondary extruder will uses HIPS.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the model I am printing only has supports near its base, once the supports have been completely printed, will the secondary extruder remain hot/at its printing temperature setpoint until the entire print finishes?  Or has this been worked out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even more specifically say the HIPS extruder isn't needed for several hours during a print. Will it cool down and begin heating up when its needed or just slightly ahead of time?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I feel like the HIPS filament left over in the extruder would be ruined after this and likely to clog going forward.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27750" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-06-12T06:00:12.580" LastActivityDate="2021-06-12T06:06:09.957" Title="Dual extruder does support/secondary extruder stay hot during entire print?" Tags="|reprap|dual-nozzle|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16515" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16514" CreationDate="2021-06-12T06:06:09.957" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Slicer Cura has a standby temperature that is used when the hotend is not in use. Furthermore, you can write your own filament/hotend change scripts to do whatever you want. You can even do a full cool down of a hotend and full warmup when it is needed again. You can also always edit your G-code file after slicing, use a standby temperature for the beginning of the print where supports are used, and manually change the G-code at the last change to disable the HIPS extruder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2021-06-12T06:06:09.957" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16516" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-06-12T10:10:29.867" Score="1" ViewCount="319" Body="&lt;p&gt;How can I print Lego bricks in order to make them attach?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I need them to be standalone pieces. I use resin to print. My model is Elegoo Mars 3. What resolution should I use?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, how should I color the bricks? I have some colored resin at home but I want to make them all black and color them afterward.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28903" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-06-12T22:49:40.103" LastActivityDate="2021-06-12T22:49:40.103" Title="How to print Lego bricks?" Tags="|3d-models|resin|legal|elegoo-mars|bricks|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16517" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16516" CreationDate="2021-06-12T21:57:49.307" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;You can't print a LEGO&lt;sup&gt;TM&lt;/sup&gt; Brick, because you are not Lego System A/S.&lt;/strong&gt; The best you can do is print a brick that is &lt;em&gt;compatible&lt;/em&gt; with LEGO&lt;sup&gt;TM&lt;/sup&gt; bricks. Also note that Lego Systems A/S has more than 600 US design patents, which might interfere with the legality of manufacturing bricks in the US.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The original bricks are made from ABS and made with a &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; tight tolerance and uses the inherent flexibility of the material to create a friction fit. However, Resin prints do lack the required mix of sturdyness and flexibility and thus can't create the required friction fit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In other words: You can't make bricks that are compatible with LEGO&lt;sup&gt;TM&lt;/sup&gt; bricks with a resin printer based on the material properties.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2021-06-12T22:18:00.073" LastActivityDate="2021-06-12T22:18:00.073" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16518" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-06-13T06:38:59.623" Score="1" ViewCount="1114" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Tronxy X8 (yes, I know, poor choice but I didn't know better) and after some years printing PLA, PETG and TPU, I am considering trying ABS, since I got myself a second hotend which can go up to 300 °C.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I am not sure if my bed can handle the required 110 °C.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to the manufacturer, 110 °C is the maximum on the bed, but they also claim their teflon-lined hotend can go up to 275 °C, so I don't trust their claims at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I safely determine the maximum temperature that the bed will go?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a MOSFET mod for the bed (and also a Bigtreetch SKR v1.1 Mainboard). The only original parts in the chain, which I don't trust, is the PSU and the heatbed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bed looks like aluminium, the surface is a Buildtak clone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What could happen if I just crank up the heat?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13550" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2021-07-14T09:38:28.003" LastActivityDate="2021-07-14T09:38:28.003" Title="Figure out max bed temperature" Tags="|heated-bed|temperature|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16520" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16518" CreationDate="2021-06-13T11:23:32.963" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The firmware has a fixed limit for the bed, this is also the maximum value you can set through the LCD interface, the  default is e.g. set in the configuration file for Marlin, it  contains the following constant definition:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#define BED_MAXTEMP      150&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But, you will most properly never reach this value, even worse, most beds won't even reach 110 °C. At some point the losses become too high and the heat input is too low to compensate. This is discussed in a previous question that I will link when found. To mitigate the heat loss, you can insulate the bottom of the heated bed and place the printer in an enclosure, this allows for reaching higher bed temperatures. Printing ABS should preferably be done with an enclosure anyways.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To find out the max temperature, just schedule the bed to go to 140 °C and see where the bed temperature takes you, or where the safety features kick in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-06-13T22:29:40.223" LastActivityDate="2021-06-13T22:29:40.223" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16521" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4692" CreationDate="2021-06-13T13:22:43.130" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Taken from a &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/review/suggested-edits/12352&quot;&gt;rejected suggested edit&lt;/a&gt;. If the author (&lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/28867/gareth&quot;&gt;Gareth&lt;/a&gt;) posts their own answer, this can be deleted, or flagged for deletion&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My Ender 3 is not warped in any way but there are several issues I needed to address:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Extrusion:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check your extruder and Z eSteps for accuracy, as detailed in numerous places.&#xA;Test layer width: print a cube in vase mode (1 shell thick) and measure wall thickness. Adjust extrusion multiplier accordingly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Bed Level:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was leveling with the '1 sheet of paper' method. I started using two sheets of paper. To compensate for reduced bed adhesion I use hairspray.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Mechanical 1:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found my X carriage was slightly loose: the hotend was pulled upwards or rode upwards during some moves then grinding on subsequent layers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Test: Grab the rail with your left hand then push with your thumb against the top left roller. If the roller rides up the groove then the carriage is loose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fix: The carriage is held firm by an eccentric on the bottom roller. Loosen the bottom wheel bolt, adjust the eccentric nut until the carriage is firm on the rail. Then back off slightly until motion is free. This is best done with the belt loose or disconnected.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Mechanical 2: X rail sags on the right.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found the X rail assembly was not even height across the width. Again, the eccentric roller was loose. Test: Measure rail height on both sides.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fix: Adjust inside eccentric roller as above.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Mechanical 3: Tighten belts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously, this is brief. Check your manual or YouTube for anything you're unsure of.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4762" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2021-06-16T07:07:18.173" LastActivityDate="2021-06-16T07:07:18.173" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2021-06-13T13:22:43.130" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16522" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16524" CreationDate="2021-06-13T22:02:58.153" Score="3" ViewCount="208" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Monoprice Maker Select Plus.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It recently started having issues printing. It turns out that the small plastic tube that feeds the extruder with filament was completely clogged. I couldn't get any of the filament out so I need a new feeder tube. I can't find one specifically for this printer anywhere. Does anyone have any ideas?&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SWFJg.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28921" LastEditorUserId="28921" LastEditDate="2021-06-13T22:29:30.060" LastActivityDate="2021-06-14T12:37:52.590" Title="Can't find replacement nozzle tube" Tags="|monoprice-maker-select|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16523" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16779" CreationDate="2021-06-14T08:11:14.640" Score="3" ViewCount="189" Body="&lt;p&gt;My Tevo Flash works well. Right now, I'm trying to print a thin, disc-like part on supports. The 3 perimeters at the edge of the disc are OK. The dense fill zigzag pattern makes many U-turns near the perimeter. It all looks OK in Simplify3D. But in the printed part, in several spots, the zigzag pattern doesn't reach the perimeters, leaving a ~1 mm gap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My guess: in those spots, the filament has nothing to grab onto underneath, so the U-turn region is dragged back by the nozzle a bit (away from the perimeters) and/or it droops. I'm using the smallest support res in Simplify 3D: 1 mm. Any options I can try?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nxpz1.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nxpz1.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14316" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-06-14T13:34:50.920" LastActivityDate="2021-07-22T08:29:15.690" Title="Fill doesn't reach perimeters on supports (Simplify3D)" Tags="|support-structures|infill|simplify3d|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16524" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16522" CreationDate="2021-06-14T09:12:38.793" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;This printer is using a so-called MK 10 extruder/hotend. These are a little different, there is a liner for the heat break that continues all the way down to inside the MK 10 nozzle:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rv0ZU.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rv0ZU.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This PTFE tubular liner has an outer dimension of 4 mm and an inner diameter of 2 mm. The length of the tube is 34 mm. These tubes can be bought at pre-cut size or, more economical, bought per meter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-06-14T12:37:52.590" LastActivityDate="2021-06-14T12:37:52.590" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16525" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-06-14T13:57:58.200" Score="1" ViewCount="392" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have very strange problem. Motors X and Z are messing up somehow. I mean if I try to home X only, Z moves also. And vice-versa. Y motor homes and moves normally.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Board is stock E3v2 v4.2.2 with TMC2208. &lt;strong&gt;With Marlin everything is OK.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, I'm not sure if it's important, but I have compiled firmware 3 times and all 3 are different in size - 20424 bytes first, 20540 bytes second, and 21172 last. All with the same settings -&amp;gt; STM32F103, 28kbit bootloader, com only (USB, CAN disabled).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Heaters seem to work too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://drive.google.com/file/d/1goiZtvODy5wEK6wjPuUyLP-nROM1xtKh/view?usp=sharing&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Video&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;(I'm not sure how to add a video window here)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is my config for motors:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;[stepper_x]&#xA;step_pin: PC2&#xA;dir_pin: PB9&#xA;enable_pin: !PC3&#xA;microsteps: 16&#xA;rotation_distance: 40&#xA;endstop_pin: ^PA5&#xA;position_endstop: 0&#xA;position_max: 225&#xA;homing_speed: 50&#xA;&#xA;[stepper_y]&#xA;step_pin: PB8&#xA;dir_pin: PB7&#xA;enable_pin: !PC3&#xA;microsteps: 16&#xA;rotation_distance: 40&#xA;endstop_pin: ^PA6&#xA;position_endstop: 0&#xA;position_max: 225&#xA;homing_speed: 50&#xA;&#xA;[stepper_z]&#xA;step_pin: PB6&#xA;dir_pin: PB5&#xA;enable_pin: !PC3&#xA;microsteps: 16&#xA;rotation_distance: 8&#xA;endstop_pin: ^PA7&#xA;position_endstop: 0.0&#xA;position_max: 250&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28930" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-06-14T14:43:14.590" LastActivityDate="2021-06-14T14:43:14.590" Title="Klipper on Ender 3 v2 wrong signals" Tags="|creality-ender-3|firmware|motor|klipper|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16526" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-06-14T16:48:27.027" Score="1" ViewCount="150" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are the following statements still true, or are they now out of date?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[3D printed architecture] The problem is this: No one has been able to successfully take the leap from printing a fancy art pavilion to printing a functional building, and it’s still not clear if the technology is going to save the world or be another decorative footnote of architectural history.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;WinSun&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For whatever reason, the only printed buildings that look remotely habitable have been built by Chinese companies. But just because they look habitable doesn’t mean that they are. No one lives in these houses, and when you get close enough, they don’t really look like the kind of place you’d want to live, unless you have a thing for creepy-cave chic.&#xA;(Both from &lt;a href=&quot;https://architizer.com/blog/practice/details/3d-printed-buildings-future-or-gimmick/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://architizer.com/blog/practice/details/3d-printed-buildings-future-or-gimmick/&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not wanting to argue about the architectural concern for appearance.  As an engineer my concern is with structural integrity and reliability.  However, are people living in 3D houses?  That is the common concern.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15075" LastEditorUserId="15075" LastEditDate="2021-06-14T17:49:32.047" LastActivityDate="2022-05-11T17:52:11.327" Title="Is there anyone now permanently living in 3D-printed houses or buildings?" Tags="|3d-design|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16527" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16526" CreationDate="2021-06-14T18:57:42.717" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Apparently the article in the question is out of date:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a family in France living in a 3D-printed house (95 sq.m. 1022 sq.ft.) since 2018:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&amp;quot;The world's first family to live in a 3D-printed home&amp;quot;&#xA;By Michael Cowan&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;BBC's Victoria Derbyshire programme&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Published6 &lt;strong&gt;July 2018&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.bbc.com/news/technology-44709534&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.bbc.com/news/technology-44709534&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They essentially 3D-printed the form to poor the concrete in the house in France.  The form was insulation and stayed in place.  This many be an easier way to meet building codes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And it looks like the market is picking up right now.  A year ago in Austin, a 400 sq.ft (37 sq.m.) home is very small for a family and doesn't compete with the traditional housing market.  However, the house in Austin shown in the picture looks huge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VORpT.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VORpT.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;REAL ESTATE:&#xA;&amp;quot;3D-printed housing developments suddenly take off – here’s what they look like&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PUBLISHED FRI, &lt;strong&gt;MAR 12 2021&lt;/strong&gt; 3:36 PM ESTUPDATED MON, MAR 22 202111:53 AM EDT&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.cnbc.com/2021/03/12/3d-printed-housing-developments-suddenly-take-off-heres-what-they-look-like.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.cnbc.com/2021/03/12/3d-printed-housing-developments-suddenly-take-off-heres-what-they-look-like.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's another link of someone building 3D printed houses for public sales:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.iconbuild.com/updates/icon-delivers-series-of-3d-printed-homes-for-homeless&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.iconbuild.com/updates/icon-delivers-series-of-3d-printed-homes-for-homeless&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A Rising Trend:&#xA;7 Biggest Companies Building 3D Printed Houses:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://all3dp.com/2/2019-best-companies-building-3d-printed-houses/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://all3dp.com/2/2019-best-companies-building-3d-printed-houses/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15075" LastEditorUserId="15075" LastEditDate="2021-07-02T11:52:36.553" LastActivityDate="2021-07-02T11:52:36.553" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16528" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14167" CreationDate="2021-06-15T08:53:04.627" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The proper way to optimise bed temperature (which depends on material, sometimes brand, bed material) is to follow &lt;a href=&quot;https://magigoo.com/blog/3d-printing-perfect-first-layer-magigoo/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;these instructions&lt;/a&gt; which basically consist in:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;print a wedge multiple times changing only the bed temperature&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;pick the temperature where the adhesion is the best.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Typically PETG works with 50-70 °C bed temperature. 80 °C is likely too high (unless the surface of your bed is much colder than the temperature sensor) because PETG is floppy (soft) at that temperature, and the first layer should be rigid enough to stay flat after the upper layer will pull up (as explained &lt;a href=&quot;https://magigoo.com/blog/prevent-warping-temperature-and-first-layer-adhesion-magigoo/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2338" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-06-15T09:21:03.333" LastActivityDate="2021-06-15T09:21:03.333" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16529" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14419" CreationDate="2021-06-15T14:15:53.787" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my experience with the Creality magnetic textured build surface, it's easier to remove a thin print while the surface is still pretty warm -- probably between 35 °C and 40 °C -- as opposed to fully cooled to room temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the print is &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; thin, however (as when the nozzle is much too close to the build surface) printing over it may be the only sensible option.  In fact, if the print residue is too thin to get a scraper under, it likely won't show in another print with the same color/type filament, so you can just ignore it unless you're changing color or material.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;BTW, don't use acetone.  For &lt;em&gt;anything&lt;/em&gt;, unless nothing else will do the job.  Too flammable, too toxic, and it dissolves stuff you don't want to dissolve (but won't do anything notable to PLA, which is why you can't do acetone vapor smoothing with PLA).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28508" LastEditorUserId="28508" LastEditDate="2021-06-15T19:14:20.680" LastActivityDate="2021-06-15T19:14:20.680" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16530" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16532" CreationDate="2021-06-15T15:16:16.197" Score="3" ViewCount="1275" Body="&lt;p&gt;3D printer use stepper motors for moving print head and extruding filament. They need to have good torque and resolution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Microstepping improves resolution as much as 32 fold (I think) but reduces torque the higher you microstep.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Why not rotate the motor with microstepping at high RPM (which also reduces torque) and increase the torque by heavy gear reduction using a worm gear?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Won't the movement of printhead  be even smoother and small errors in microstepping and unevenness of gears be averaged out using high RPM and gear reduction approach?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Does microstepping indeed provide accurate divisions of steps?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Can we get by with weaker motors because torque will be increased by gear reduction?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Can we get by with 48 step stepper motors instead of 200 step because gear reduction provides increased resolution?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;There are extruders that use flex shaft to turn worm gear in direct extruder while motor is mounted on frame which turns flex shaft (zesty nimble comes to mind). Why don't they just use smallest possible stepper motor to rotate worm gear directly, instead?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Increasing motor RPM and using gear reduction should preserve the precision and torque, letting you use weaker, lighter motors, potentially reducing granularity of movement. I thought this was simpler approach and I wanted to understand what would I be losing as trade offs. I had considered more friction at worm gear and wear, higher heating of motor etc. But may be it's like &amp;quot;don't fix what ain't broken&amp;quot;. 3D printers aren't that costly nowadays. I just wish they were even cheaper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28942" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2021-06-17T03:26:49.943" LastActivityDate="2021-06-17T07:40:54.473" Title="Why not use high rpm stepper motors with high microstepping with gear reduction in 3D printer?" Tags="|diy-3d-printer|delta|microstepping|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16531" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16530" CreationDate="2021-06-15T15:55:04.977" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's an old rule that says &amp;quot;If the question starts with 'Why don't they,' the answer is most likely 'money.'&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this case, the issue is the cost of worm gears.  Properly mating worm gears are much more expensive to make than common spur gears.  That probably accounts for most of it -- not to mention the 200 step motors we see on most FDM printers are a very common item, and the more you make of something the less each one costs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Beyond that, you can't back-drive most worm gears (especially those with a high reduction ratio).  That wouldn't affect an extruder (or would it? I've seen a lot of Things for knobs to go on the extruder motor shaft), but if I couldn't back-drive my X or Y axes I'd be very annoyed (having to use the manual motion control in the firmware for everything like bed tramming) -- even the lead screw Z axis can be back-driven without undue effort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, bottom line, what we have now works well enough and making it (maybe a very little bit) better would cost more than what we gain would be worth.  IMO.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28508" LastActivityDate="2021-06-15T15:55:04.977" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16532" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16530" CreationDate="2021-06-15T16:51:51.510" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;To answer each point:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;Microstepping improves resolution as much as 32 fold (I think) but reduces torque the higher you micro-step.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Torque is not reduced by micro-stepping. Torque reduction only occurs when you are moving at high RPMs. The motor's phase resistance has to be conducive to the target RPM's (or step rate). Further, micro-stepping can go as has as 1/256, and I have personally used 1/128. Some will say that all higher micro-stepping does is improve smoothness not accuracy. I have personally tested 1/128 micro-stepping over a 17-inch long axis. I was able to achieve accuracy and repeatability to within 5 microns.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;Why not rotate the motor with micro-stepping at high RPM (which also reduces torque) and increase the torque by heavy gear reduction using a worm gear?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Backlash! The whole point of stepper motors is that they produce backlash-free movement. Putting a transmission between the electromagnetic and the end effector will create backlash that has to be compensated for during the movement. Modern CNC systems account for this in their movement profiles and incorporate automatic backlash compensation (e.g. Mach3)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;Won't the movement of printhead be even smoother and small errors in microstepping and unevenness of gears be averaged out using high RPM and gear reduction approach?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is already smooth enough with 1/64th or greater micro-stepping. The extrusion nozzle only goes down to 2mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;Does microstepping indeed provide accurate divisions of steps?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes. Yes, it does.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;Can we get by with weaker motors because torque will be increased by gear reduction?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No, because it will just stall.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;Can we get by with 48 step stepper motors instead of 200 step because gear reduction provides increased resolution?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Apart from the fact that no one makes 48 steps per revolution motors, using a gear reduction would be counterintuitive. Currently, there are 400 steps per revolution motors, which actually increase accuracy without any torque losses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;There are extruders that use flex shaft to turn worm gear in direct extruder while motor is mounted on frame which turns flex shaft (zesty nimble comes to mind). Why don't they just use smallest possible stepper motor to rotate worm gear directly, instead?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Torque! If they used a small motor to drive the extruder they would have to compensate for the torque loss with higher power (i.e. voltages). This would lead to cooling issues for that motor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bottom line is that if you size the motors and design the system correctly then a transmission is not needed. If you want more torque, get bigger motors. If the gantry needs to be light weight, then use a delta or corexy mechanism.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12857" LastEditorUserId="2338" LastEditDate="2021-06-17T07:40:54.473" LastActivityDate="2021-06-17T07:40:54.473" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16533" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-06-15T18:30:41.273" Score="2" ViewCount="1164" Body="&lt;p&gt;For some reason on my Raise 3D N2 plus with a Bondtech-Extruder I am sometimes seeing filament jams and sometimes it prints without any issues. I am using PLA at 215 °C.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the filament is jammed I have to pull it out, remove the tip, and then I can load again and everything works perfectly fine again. I have attached a picture of what I pull out of the extruder each time. It looks like the bottom part is some kind of skin of the filament.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's hard to see but the tip of the filament is a little thicker, so it's possible that this can't be pushed into the extruder, but why would it build up there? I am using 3 mm retract, could that be the issue? Or is my extruder not hot enough?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WY0vY.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Filament pulled out of the extruder&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WY0vY.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Filament pulled out of the extruder&quot; title=&quot;Filament pulled out of the extruder&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UnbN1.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Thicker part of the filament&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UnbN1.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Thicker part of the filament&quot; title=&quot;Thicker part of the filament&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28945" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2021-06-17T03:23:55.160" LastActivityDate="2021-06-17T11:15:16.467" Title="Filament getting stuck/nozzle is clogged" Tags="|filament-jam|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16535" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1130" CreationDate="2021-06-15T20:26:34.770" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my case, there were some artifacts only on the right side, and the problem was that the screw was partly out of the pulley under the bed. I would suggest moving the bed to the back and checking the pulley. You might also consider &lt;a href=&quot;https://help.prusa3d.com/en/guide/maintenance-tips_23200&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;cleaning and lubricating the rods&lt;/a&gt;, which is what I was doing when I discovered it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is an example of the bumps when the pulley was loose (using TPU):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QSrzW.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QSrzW.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;3d print showing bumps on one side&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22029" LastActivityDate="2021-06-15T20:26:34.770" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16536" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-06-15T21:15:23.583" Score="5" ViewCount="1458" Body="&lt;p&gt;My first attempt to print in ABS has been an unmitigated disaster, and I could do with some advice before I try again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've been trying to print a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4067324&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Bean Hopper Extension for Melitta Barista TS Smart&lt;/a&gt; coffee machine, but every time the layers separate, usually at or near a corner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Net7D.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Net7Dm.png&quot; alt=&quot;Bean Hopper Extension for Melitta Barista TS Smart&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My first attempt had it lifting from the bed before a few layers had completed. When I tried it with a thin brim on the outside, it stuck down for a while, but eventually started lifting away from the bed. When I tried it with a raft, it got further, but then the print detached itself from the raft at one corner. My final attempt used a wider brim on both inside and outside, and it managed to get even further through the print. None of the brim had detached from the bed, but then I noticed layers higher up pulling apart, and when I eventually cancelled the print, I saw it had started separating earlier and managed to recover in later layers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At this point I gave up and printed it in PLA, first time, but I would like to understand what I can do to improve my chances of printing this next time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, I plan to redesign this with the outer wall extending straight up to the level of the bottom of the notch, with a flat top in which I intend to add a channel for a rubber seal. Will widening of part of the model cause more problems for an ABS print, or will it help strengthen it and prevent it separating as before?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;I'm using an Ender 3 V2 with a heated bed, using Prit-stik as my bed glue.&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="63" LastActivityDate="2021-06-16T14:34:11.837" Title="Help printing in ABS" Tags="|creality-ender-3|abs|delamination|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16537" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16536" CreationDate="2021-06-16T03:35:08.480" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You make no mention of a heated enclosure, so I assume you aren't using one.  ABS undergoes significant contraction as it cools down.  If you're not using an enclosure, the temperature differences between the heated bed, the cool middle of the print, and the heat of the freshly-printed plastic will cause severe warping.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="48" LastActivityDate="2021-06-16T03:35:08.480" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16538" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16536" CreationDate="2021-06-16T07:39:56.103" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;First of all, the bed should be at 100-110 °C and fan 0 %.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had &lt;em&gt;incredibly&lt;/em&gt; good results by using a (sacrificial) &amp;quot;draft shield&amp;quot; as shown below together with a large brim (10 mm). It creates a warmer micro-climate which keeps the print a bit warmer, with much less warping. My printer bed back then was 130x130 mm, therefore drafts were strong. You will get even better results, you have about 200x200 mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/M0l3m.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/M0l3m.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/OCcwXF5Z40A?start=47&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you were able to add something like this, it would be even better:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Qnwfl.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Qnwfl.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can get it by designing in Fusion 360 or anything else a &amp;quot;U&amp;quot; shaped part, which you will add twice to each print and scale accordingly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason is that the normal draft shield will deform a lot and detach from the print bed at least in part, resulting in an opening at the bottom and a chimney effect which reduces the effectiveness of the shield. With the two U parts, it won't happen as easy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The draft shield is the first thing to try.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also add a &amp;quot;shield&amp;quot; out of cardboard around the printer. You don't need to close the top, it will work quite good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also get 2-4 20-40 W halogen lamps (from a car, for example, they run already at 12 V, but don't connect them to the same power supply as the printer!) and point them at the part. If you have two, mount them at the two sides of the horizontal gantry: they don't need to move horizontally, only vertically. They will keep the part quite warm without the need of an enclosure (but it would help).&#xA;If you have 4 mount them maybe at the corners of the bed, hoping the shaking won't kill them too quickly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The solutions I listed so far result in better prints, but also in &lt;strong&gt;stronger&lt;/strong&gt; prints because they reduce the causes for warping. The halogen lamps, in particular, keep the printed part quite hot and do wonders.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another solution which is the easiest and which works extremely well but which weakens the print because it only hides the warping is to use Dimafix on the bed. The print will stick like there is no tomorrow (bed temperature above 90 °C) but the stresses are still there and the print may split in the middle between layers, if it's tall.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2338" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-06-16T14:34:11.837" LastActivityDate="2021-06-16T14:34:11.837" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16539" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16533" CreationDate="2021-06-16T12:09:09.103" Score="1" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Heat creep can cause the filament to jam.  The thicker end on a Bowden tube extruder matches heat creep.  However, since lowering the extrusion temperature didn't help, it does not look like heat creep.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Retracting too far can cause the filament to jam trying to go forward again.  Have you tried less retraction?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;PETG can jam if you print too fast.  I'm unaware of this problem with PLA.  However, this problem gets worse with lower extrusion temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;What is missing in the images for a direct drive extruder is any sign of the drive gear engaging the filament.  There are no teeth marks where the gear pushes the filament and no notch in the filament where the gear turns but doesn't move the filament.  Is your filament drive gear too loose against the filament to keep pushing it through the nozzle?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15075" LastEditorUserId="15075" LastEditDate="2021-06-17T11:15:16.467" LastActivityDate="2021-06-17T11:15:16.467" CommentCount="17" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16540" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16536" CreationDate="2021-06-16T12:54:06.863" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are printing very thin walls, corners can be difficult.  Rounding the corners helps.  Also, if you can leave the outside square, but round the inside (making the corner slightly thicker), this can help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15075" LastActivityDate="2021-06-16T12:54:06.863" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16541" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16530" CreationDate="2021-06-16T15:00:25.200" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol start=&quot;6&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There are extruders that use flex shaft to turn worm gear in direct extruder while motor is mounted on frame which turns flex shaft (zesty nimble comes to mind). Why don't they just use smallest possible stepper motor to rotate worm gear directly, instead?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Flex3Drive, from which the Zesty was purportedly cloned, &lt;strong&gt;does&lt;/strong&gt; admit using a very small NEMA-8 motor directly coupled to the worm gear in place of a flex shaft. This still adds a considerable (from the standpoint of machines aiming for 40 m/s² acceleration and such) amount of mass to the toolhead, and I'm not clear what E-axis speed/acceleration is attainable with 40:1 reduction and a low-power motor like that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While the larger steppers typically used in 3D printers are perfectly capable of any plausible E-axis speed or acceleration you could want without gearing or with small reduction (e.g. 2:1 or 3:1), once you get up to worm gear level ratios, it's a question of the properties of your specific motor whether you can get enough speed for acceptable retraction performance or even normal print moves at very high speeds. For example, I have a Flex3Drive G5 and the orignal NEMA-17 E-stepper from my Ender 3 does not work well with it without further gearing on the motor side of the shaft. However, a &amp;quot;high RPM stepper&amp;quot; like you suggest should manage just fine with worm gear reduction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, is there any reason to do this? If you're transmitting the force in a manner that can't deal with high torque, like a flex shaft, yes. Otherwise, no. As others have said, modern microstepping is ridiculously accurate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2021-06-16T15:00:25.200" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16542" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15843" CreationDate="2021-06-16T19:58:10.170" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Answer created from octopus8's comments. If octopus8 wants to post their own answer, this wiki answer can be deleted.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;185 °C is quite ok for several PLAs I have when printing slow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Honestly, I couldn't believe that the heat can go up the heatsink and Bowden tube to make extruder frame hot. So maybe your extruder's stepper motor is just getting hot heats up all metal elements (or a combination of both)? Did you replace only frame or also the stepper motor? Maybe the voltage is too high? I think voltages might be not calibrated well in factory, because my Z stepper in Ender 3 V2 also is getting really hot since I bought the printer (so far I added radiator, but I plan to regulate this voltage).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The new tension arm is a bit tighter than I had it set on my old, but I can't imagine it's making enough resistance to overwork the motor without seeing other issues first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I agree with your judgement. Regarding the voltage: first I am not sure if my copy of v4.2.2 mainboard &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.reddit.com/r/ender3/comments/ibqo8s/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;has TMC2208 stepper drivers, or some older HR4988&lt;/a&gt;. I would need to determine that first, then find a valid formula for Vref. Actual voltage is tuned using potentiometer next to corner of stepper's small radiator. You can &lt;a href=&quot;https://marlin.crc.id.au/faq/Ender%203%20V2/#vref&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;see here an example of this process&lt;/a&gt;. One problem is that Ender 3 V2 has the mainboard accessible from the bottom, so I would need something like garage pit to operate...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you can see, it is important to not touch the screwdriver's metal bar, and anyhow include your body's capacity to this circuit, or you may break things. There are also ceramic screwdrivers - but I already bought two and still my best option is sculpted from 3mm filament. Plastic or ceramic tool will need you to measure voltage separately from turning potentiometer. So the idea of connecting voltmeter to small metal screwdriver is very handy, but you have to be careful to touch only plastic parts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4762" LastActivityDate="2021-06-16T19:58:10.170" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2021-06-16T19:58:10.170" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16543" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15843" CreationDate="2021-06-16T20:11:55.613" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Answer taken from &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/15843/ender-3-v2-extruder-getting-hot/16542#comment30113_15846&quot;&gt;Seradhe's comment&lt;/a&gt;. If Seradhe posts their own answer, then this wiki answer can be deleted.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sorry for the long delay, but I wanted to post a follow up to conclude this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I printed outside of my enclosure with no problem. Best guess is that the sealed enclosure wasn't bleeding off heat very well, and the aluminum feeder (being aluminum) was just soaking up the heat non-stop. Fine for short prints but anything over three hours it would get hot enough to soften the filament. I'm currently printing housings for some extra PC fans I have and framing in a vent system to keep it from getting too hot in the future&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4762" LastActivityDate="2021-06-16T20:11:55.613" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2021-06-16T20:11:55.613" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16544" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16556" CreationDate="2021-06-17T02:16:07.533" Score="2" ViewCount="756" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am trying to set up RepRap firmware for a CoreXY shown below.  There are 4 limit switches in the top plane and one for the Z-axis.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I believe that LS1 &amp;amp; 2 are considered for the X-axis and LS3 &amp;amp; 4 are for the Y-axis.  My question is do I need all of these switches?  Is it even possible to program this many in the firmware?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9Fx77.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Image of CoreXY indicating limit switches&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9Fx77.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Image of CoreXY indicating limit switches&quot; title=&quot;Image of CoreXY indicating limit switches&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27750" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2021-06-17T03:06:31.993" LastActivityDate="2021-06-18T08:25:48.930" Title="CoreXY limit switch locations" Tags="|corexy|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16545" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-06-17T02:46:53.913" Score="2" ViewCount="1316" Body="&lt;p&gt;My Ender 3 has started having problems printing.  It does not seem to be getting enough power.  I have cleaned the hot end, checked the PTFE tube seat, replaced nozzles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is missing steps on the extruder motor.  I increased &lt;code&gt;vref&lt;/code&gt; for the E-axis first to 0.9, then 1.0, then 1.2. The extruder works properly, but now it is missing steps on the X-axis.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28957" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2021-06-17T03:07:05.790" LastActivityDate="2021-06-17T17:40:19.513" Title="Ender 3 power problems, under-extrusion missing steps" Tags="|creality-ender-3|underextrusion|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16546" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16551" CreationDate="2021-06-17T07:58:54.987" Score="3" ViewCount="350" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Tevo Flash. Normally, I don't care about perpendicularity with respect to the table. But now I have a 5&amp;quot; disc on a ball bearing, held by a 3D printed tube with a flat bottom. If the tube's axis is not 100 % perpendicular to the bottom, the disc, when spun, wobbles at the edge: ~1/8&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LgMr5.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LgMr5.png&quot; alt=&quot;Disc wobble&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a test, I printed a vertical sample tube. I took close-up pics, on the printer's table, next to a carpenter's square. Down the table's Y axis, there's a vert. deviation of ~1 mm over 45 mm of height, between the sample tube and the square. Down the X-axis, the deviation is small.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rhb9c.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rhb9c.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Deviation photos&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do I deal with it? Can a slicer (I have Simplify3D) compensate for it? I could gently &amp;quot;skew&amp;quot; the geo in 3D modeling software, but it seems inelegant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: this has nothing to do with bed leveling. The bed is level, the printer has a BLTouch. The first layers look great. The problem is above the bed. The right angles of the aluminum-extrusion frame aren't 100 % exact. Measured with the carpenter's square, the vertical columns of the frame (Z) deviate 1-2 mm over 100 mm from perpendicular, with respect to the bottom frame (X-Y). Trying to fix the whole frame would be hard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: I used a 0.127 mm shim (from a sacrificial steel gauge blade), it fixed most of it. With the printer laid horizontally (so I could work with the screws underneath) and the shim in, the vertical posts were 100% true (see pic). When I put the printer back into its vertical, working position, the posts tilted back a bit. I'll try a 0.15 mm shim.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2Rt9t.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2Rt9t.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Shim added&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14316" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-06-18T07:27:48.083" LastActivityDate="2021-06-25T22:52:26.590" Title="Need accurate 90º angle with respect to the table" Tags="|print-quality|tevo-tarantula|dimensional-accuracy|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16547" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-06-17T09:41:23.127" Score="4" ViewCount="978" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've built a custom machine based on the AM8 (Anet A8 upgrade). I've got an E3D V6 clone hotend in, seems like a decent clone. I've replaced the heat break, heat block, and nozzle several times but after a given period it seems like filament leaks up the heat break. The heat break and nozzle are &amp;quot;all-metal&amp;quot; titanium versions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How I set it up: I insert the nozzle all the way into heat block, I unscrew it about 3/4 of a turn. I insert the heat break until it makes contact. I then tighten using pliers and spanner. I assemble onto the printer. I heat until 285 °C, give it a few minutes, tighten as much as I think I can before something would break. I let it cool down. I heat again to 285 °C, tighten again as much as I can. Cool down. Then ready for printing (mainly using PETG at 240 °C).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What am I doing wrong? What should I be doing differently?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3Nd9q.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Photo of hotend on 3D printer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3Nd9q.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Photo of hotend on 3D printer&quot; title=&quot;Photo of hotend on 3D printer&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28967" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2021-06-17T17:39:49.677" LastActivityDate="2021-06-20T12:10:06.183" Title="E3D Clone heatbreak / nozzle leak issue" Tags="|hotend|e3d-v6|all-metal-hotend|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16548" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16547" CreationDate="2021-06-17T11:40:05.467" Score="2" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Verification: When you tighten the nozzle against the heat break, the nozzle is not tightened completely against the heater block.  If the nozzle tightens completely against the heater block, it will not finish tightening against the heat break.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: the heat break is thin between the heater block and heat sink to minimize conduction of heat.  Over-tightening the heat break into the heat sink with break the heat break.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol start=&quot;2&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Verification: your heat break is all metal (no Teflon tube in the filament path).  If it's not all metal, 285 °C may be damaging the Teflon tube.  If not all metal, tighten the nozzle to the heat break at 250 °C, which is the limiting temperature for an extuder that isn't all metal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The titanium heat break has higher thermal resistance, which helps to isolate the heat break from the heater block.  However, higher thermal resistance is a disadvantage for the nozzle, where you want the heat. For non-abrasive filaments, such as PETG, a brass nozzle is easier to get a good seal as well was better heat conduction.  PETG is particularly sensitive to jamming from not adequately heating up when printing too fast.  While the nozzle heats the filament, the filament cools the tip.  Thus, you will need to print slower with a titanium nozzle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;From the information so far, it appears to be difficulty get a seal between to titanium pieces.  It seams like they could use a different titanium alloy.  Titanium glasses frames are flexible, not brittle.  However, brittle alloys are usually harder, but the heat break doesn't need to be hard like the nozzle.  Of course, brass is easier to get a seal because it actually deforms to fit shape of heat break.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15075" LastEditorUserId="15075" LastEditDate="2021-06-18T11:17:05.940" LastActivityDate="2021-06-18T11:17:05.940" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16549" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16545" CreationDate="2021-06-17T13:05:57.563" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a common issue, there are a number of problems that could cause an extruder motor on the Ender 3 to skip steps besides the stepper needing an increase in current. If the extruder motor is missing steps--which usually results in a periodic clicking noise--this is likely due to one of the following common problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Nozzle is too close to bed&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Print temperature is too low for a particular filament&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Nozzle clog&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Filament &amp;quot;clog&amp;quot; in the hot-end gap between Bowden tubing and nozzle&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Extruder stepper motor is undercurrent&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To quickly and effectively diagnose each of the problems above:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[1, 2]. Move the nozzle away from the bed ~(+20 mm Z) so that the nozzle is a good distance away and extrude 25 mm of filament. If the clicking stops and the extruder stepper is working properly, you know that the nozzle is too close to the bed and you should re-level the bed.&#xA;If the clicking/missing steps persist, you should increase the temperature of the hotend to the upper bound of the recommended temperature for the filament (ie. for Hatchbox PLA temp. range on label is: 180 °C - 210 °C). Extrude 25 mm of filament again and observe extruder motor as above.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[3, 4]. If the extruder motor is still missing steps, you are going to need to inspect the nozzle and hotend assembly in greater depth. You should remove the nozzle like &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/search?q=remove%20ender%203%20nozzle&amp;amp;oq=remove%20ender%203%20nozzle&amp;amp;aqs=chrome.0.0j0i22i30l3j0i390l2.3473j0j9&amp;amp;sourceid=chrome&amp;amp;ie=UTF-8#kpvalbx=_PEDLYNHcFMW7tQbniqDwAw17&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt;. See if you can clean it out or replace it if it is clogged (might be best to replace it if you have extra nozzles either way). Check to see if this fixes the extruder motor problem by extruding filament with the hotend sufficiently far away from the bed as in steps (1), (2) above.&#xA;If this still doesn't solve the issue, the most likely problem is (4) a gap of space in the hotend between the nozzle and Bowden tube getting filled with molten plastic. To fix this, remove the nozzle and disconnect the PTFE tubing. Slide the end of the PTFE tubing through the hot end and wipe off the end of the PTFE tubing with a paper towel to clear out all of the gunk before you pull it back through the hotend. Check the last few mm of the tubing for any gunk and if necessary cut the last few mm of the tubing (ideally using tube cutters) or replace the tube with Capricorn PTFE tubing. Tighten the nozzle to &amp;quot;finger-tight&amp;quot; ie. the tightest you can before you must use the wrench and spanner, then loosen the nozzle ONE FULL REVOLUTION. Now push the Bowden tubing down very hard so that is flush up against the nozzle. Now, properly re-tighten the nozzle all the way. This ensures there is a tight fit between the nozzle and the end of the tubing that prevents this gap from arising. If this is the issue, you may also want to look into replacing the Bowden tube coupler at the top of the hot-end assembly (the stock ones that come with the Ender 3 are cheap and often the root of issues). This entire problem and fix is extensively covered &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=30qqKUwviww&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[5] The issue the OP suggested is not the definite cause of this issue and as such, it should be checked last as it is a &amp;quot;catch-all&amp;quot; solution which is less likely than 1-4. I would only increase the extruder stepper current as a last resort (assuming your Ender 3 has already been properly calibrated and functioning in the past). As the OP suggested, you would increase the current for the extruder stepper by using the &lt;code&gt;vref&lt;/code&gt; potentiometer on the main control board &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pJRYXKRAUN4&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;like this.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The list above contains &lt;em&gt;common/likely&lt;/em&gt; potential issues and best practices to troubleshoot them, not an exhaustive manual of possible reasons why the extruder motor is skipping steps or under-extrusion is occurring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28970" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-06-17T17:40:19.513" LastActivityDate="2021-06-17T17:40:19.513" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16550" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16546" CreationDate="2021-06-17T13:29:30.940" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you've measured the frame and it's not square, that's almost surely your problem and you need to fix it. But having a BLtouch does not mean your bed is level. The effect you're seeing is exactly what you get from using a BLtouch and mesh leveling to compensate for a non-level bed, and it's a very bad thing and why these fake leveling systems are band-aids to make it easier to get started printing something minimally viable, not something that gives you a working, precise printer. The bed needs to be physically square with the Z axis.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2021-06-17T13:29:30.940" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16551" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16546" CreationDate="2021-06-17T13:38:11.100" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;In answer to &lt;em&gt;(doesn't have to the issue of the OP, but as a reaction for other readers)&lt;/em&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: this has nothing to do with bed leveling. The bed is level, the printer has a BLTouch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;/a/16605&quot;&gt;Having a BLTouch doesn't imply the bed is level!&lt;/a&gt; The bed is level when the nozzle moves in the same plane parallel to the bed, the bed shape is compensated for by the BLTouch, it can be very skew and still it will print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The right angles of the aluminum-extrusion frame aren't 100 % exact.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That is a problem, the frame needs to be square. I don't think that it is a major operation to modify that, you can use some support struts, I've done that for a 2040 aluminum extrusion i3 clone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note, this is a portal style printer driven by a single Z lead screw (and a roller mount on the other Z post) as far as can be seen from the manufacturer photographs. &lt;em&gt;(Update, the OP has a dual screw Z portal, so this possibly is not applicable to that specific version)&lt;/em&gt; Single Z screw portal printer types are also prone to unlevel over height, be sure the rollers of the nozzle carrier and the opposite Z post rollers are correctly functioning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although fixing the hardware is the preferred option, there is an alternative, you can solve this in firmware like e.g. Marlin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You need to make some test prints and fill out the correct values to correct for the skewness, but this may be limited to overall Z skewness, not individual skew Z posts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;E.g. in Marlin, the configuration file can be used to compensate the skewness problem:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;/**&#xA; * Bed Skew Compensation&#xA; *&#xA; * This feature corrects for misalignment in the XYZ axes.&#xA; *&#xA; * Take the following steps to get the bed skew in the XY plane:&#xA; *  1. Print a test square (e.g., https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2563185)&#xA; *  2. For XY_DIAG_AC measure the diagonal A to C&#xA; *  3. For XY_DIAG_BD measure the diagonal B to D&#xA; *  4. For XY_SIDE_AD measure the edge A to D&#xA; *&#xA; * Marlin automatically computes skew factors from these measurements.&#xA; * Skew factors may also be computed and set manually:&#xA; *&#xA; *  - Compute AB     : SQRT(2*AC*AC+2*BD*BD-4*AD*AD)/2&#xA; *  - XY_SKEW_FACTOR : TAN(PI/2-ACOS((AC*AC-AB*AB-AD*AD)/(2*AB*AD)))&#xA; *&#xA; * If desired, follow the same procedure for XZ and YZ.&#xA; * Use these diagrams for reference:&#xA; *&#xA; *    Y                     Z                     Z&#xA; *    ^     B-------C       ^     B-------C       ^     B-------C&#xA; *    |    /       /        |    /       /        |    /       /&#xA; *    |   /       /         |   /       /         |   /       /&#xA; *    |  A-------D          |  A-------D          |  A-------D&#xA; *    +--------------&amp;gt;X     +--------------&amp;gt;X     +--------------&amp;gt;Y&#xA; *     XY_SKEW_FACTOR        XZ_SKEW_FACTOR        YZ_SKEW_FACTOR&#xA; */&#xA;//#define SKEW_CORRECTION&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But, this requires a new firmware installation, the reader should investigate whether this is within the capabilities of the reader.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-06-25T22:52:26.590" LastActivityDate="2021-06-25T22:52:26.590" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16552" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16554" CreationDate="2021-06-17T13:51:05.610" Score="1" ViewCount="1212" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am looking to print an HTD Timing Belt pulley to be used in a laboratory setting that can get &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; cold for extended periods of time. By &amp;quot;very cold&amp;quot; I mean adjacent metal chambers get cooled with liquid nitrogen to lower than -200 °C. For the purposes of having a threshold temperature tolerance, assume that the metal chambers coming directly in contact with the pulley may get as cold as mK close to absolute zero.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While it was my intention to print this pulley out of PLA, I am unsure whether or not it will be able to withstand negative temperatures of this magnitude or if it will become brittle--or something else will happen to the structure of the print when it experiences these temperatures. I am open to printing any other material if there are some materials that will hold up better than PLA for low temperatures. It is preferable for me to print this part instead of machine it for the sake of a deadline. I was also wondering if there is some infill pattern, infill density, or other structural print parameters that would help reinforce a printed part against becoming brittle when imposed to such low temperatures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28970" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-06-17T14:12:19.727" LastActivityDate="2021-06-17T22:12:38.623" Title="Lowest temperature PLA pulley print will withstand" Tags="|filament|filament-choice|temperature|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16553" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16546" CreationDate="2021-06-17T13:51:45.567" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The vertical axis of your print is determined by the machine's Z axis, not by the &amp;quot;bed level&amp;quot; compensation of a BL Touch or similar bed error compensation system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you print after BL Touch measures the bed height, the firmware moves the Z axis up and down to compensate for errors in the bed (including non-planar bed surface, which is its main utility) -- but as you print and the hotend moves up layer by layer, the movement is determined by the Z axis -- with a common gantry type printer, this is set by the vertical frame.  If that frame isn't perpendicular to the X and Y axes, the verticals of the print won't be, either.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To correct your Y axis tilt, you need to correct your vertical frame tilt.  The simplest way to do this is likely to be installing an adjustable frame brace system (you can print all the parts except for a couple threaded rods).  That will let you make a precise adjustment, print another test like the one in the question, and verify that it's accurate, before printing your &amp;quot;disk on a donut&amp;quot; actual part.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28508" LastActivityDate="2021-06-17T13:51:45.567" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16554" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16552" CreationDate="2021-06-17T14:42:03.947" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.curbellplastics.com/Research-Solutions/Technical-Resources/Technical-Resources/Plastic-Materials-in-Cryogenic-Environments#:%7E:text=Plastics%20offer%20a%20number%20of,wear%20surfaces%20without%20external%20lubrication.&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this article&lt;/a&gt; which seems to suggest PTFE is a good choice of plastic for a cryogenic environment.  I've read that there are PTFE filaments available for FDM printers, though there are some caveats.  First, you will need an all-metal hot end; enough heat to melt a PTFE filament will melt the PTFE filament guide if it is in contact with the nozzle.  Second, you will likely need to edit your printer's firmware to permit printing at the high temperatures required.  Third, it may require some testing to determine whether FDM printed PTFE will meet your mechanical needs (shear strength, layer adhesion, etc.) and fourth, you might need an unusual build surface, since the polymers used for many existing surfaces can't take the temperatures needed for bed adhesion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, as with a PTFE guide tube in contact with the nozzle, at the temperatures required you need to be aware of and take precautions against outgassing by the melting PTFE.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28508" LastActivityDate="2021-06-17T14:42:03.947" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16555" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16547" CreationDate="2021-06-17T17:50:13.890" Score="4" Body="&lt;h2&gt;How does this happen?&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For melted filament to leak around the heat break threads, it has to first get through the metal-to-metal machined surface joint where the heat break contacts the nozzle.  Given this keeps happening, the problem must be a systematic error of some kind.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h4&gt;Thermal Cycling&lt;/h4&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Based on your description of your installation procedure (heat to 285 °C, tighten, cool, reheat to 285 °C, retighten, cool, print at 240 °C) I see a potential issue: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC5456638/#:%7E:text=Brittle%20fracture%20is%20one%20of,it%20can%20cause%20catastrophic%20accidents.&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;titanium is subject to brittle fracture&lt;/a&gt;.  Your titanium hot end and nozzle, together, are being overstressed with the combination of heating well beyond print temperature, overtightening, and cooling (the aluminum heat block has a much high expansion coefficient than titanium).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h4&gt;Suggestion&lt;/h4&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I'd recommend is to change to a brass nozzle or, if you need to print with abrasive filament, hardened steel, and a 304 or 316 stainless heat break.  The steel or brass nozzles will cost less than titanium and do at least as good a job (brass is best for thermal transfer to the filament, though it has limited wear life), while stainless steel for the heat break will have similar or lower thermal conductivity and is less brittle.  As a bonus, with your tightening routine, the brass nozzle material will deform when it is compressed against the stainless heat break and act as a gasket, rather than fracturing after a few heat/cool cycles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h4&gt;An Additional Concern&lt;/h4&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While answering comments, I was reminded of another possible issue: the same reason aluminum wiring is no longer used for in-wall home electrical installations.  Aluminum tends to deform permanently after heat expansion under constraint, rather than recovering its original shape (as copper and brass will do), and expands several times as much per degree as titanium does.  Even if the heat block is an alloy rather than conductor grade pure aluminum, this will occur (though most alloys are significantly harder/stronger than pure metal) with the heat, tighten, cool process.  Also, 280 °C may be hot enough for aluminum to undergo heat creep (a slow, permanent deformation under stress normally well below the yield point).  The rule I recall from material science courses in college, almost forty years ago, is that creep becomes an issue when the absolute temperature is more than about half the melting point, for most metals, and pure aluminum melts at about 933 °K while you're printing at 553 °K (by comparison, 70/30 brass, as used for firearm cartridges, has a solidus -- the lower melting point of a two-component alloy -- of about 1183 °K.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This permanent deformation of the aluminum heat block at the threads may result in the threads becoming loose, thus allowing extrusion pressure to force molten filament between the heat block and heat break.  That layer of filament material then acts as an insulator, increasing the temperature differential between the heat block and heat break -- and with the heat break now running cooler, the gap opens further.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h4&gt;A Suggested Solution&lt;/h4&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One solution to this would be to switch to a brass or copper heat block.  Not only do these metals have a higher melting point than most aluminum alloys, making them less prone to creep at printing temperatures, but they have much more tendency to return to original dimension after a heat/cool cycle when constrained (which is why copper house wires don't become loose over time the way aluminum ones do).  The change in mass and conductivity might make it desirable to recalibrate the temperature control PID, if present, but this is a one-time operation, compared to having to disassemble and clean the heat block and heat break periodically due to leaks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28508" LastEditorUserId="28508" LastEditDate="2021-06-20T12:10:06.183" LastActivityDate="2021-06-20T12:10:06.183" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16556" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16544" CreationDate="2021-06-17T21:58:38.140" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;LS1 &amp;amp; 2 are considered for the X-axis&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, these correspond to X-max and X-min, respectfully.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;LS3 &amp;amp; 4 are for the Y-axis&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, these correspond to Y-min and Y-max, respectfully.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;do I need all of these switches?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Technically, no, you need one switch for each axis (if homing is used), but it can be saving your printer when somehow a layer shift has occurred which forces the head to move outside the bed dimensions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that you even can use zero switches, but then you would need to position the print head yourself before each print and condition the G-code with a starting position, this is seen in some CNC  machines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is a good idea to use min and max switches, but not necessary. &lt;em&gt;(My CoreXY printer doesn't have the Y-max endstop as there was a little too less space to place it, restricting Y bed size...)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it even possible to program this many in the firmware?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, firmwares allow for min and max switches, sometimes even multiple min or max switches for a single axis. The problem is whether your controller board has enough pins exposed and connectors added on the circuit board. But, min and max switches for X, Y and Z axis are not uncommon anymore, look at the specs of the controller board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-06-18T08:25:48.930" LastActivityDate="2021-06-18T08:25:48.930" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16557" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16552" CreationDate="2021-06-17T22:12:38.623" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could try PETG. PETG labware works down to -70, and there is a video clip where a PET bottle filled with liquid nitrogen that withstands appreciable pressure.&#xA;But for whichever material is used, thermal cycling may be a problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28554" LastActivityDate="2021-06-17T22:12:38.623" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16558" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11176" CreationDate="2021-06-17T22:30:16.147" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I print with PETG, my bed is 80 °C for first 2 layers then I drop it to 65 °C&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Extruder temp first two layers 240-250 °C and then drop to 225-230 °C.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28973" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-06-18T04:00:37.977" LastActivityDate="2021-06-18T04:00:37.977" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16559" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-06-18T01:03:42.280" Score="4" ViewCount="1249" Body="&lt;p&gt;My BLTouch was working great. Until one day, it just started showing the right side as being high on every read.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've tried leveling many times manually and with the BLTouch. But every time I use the bed visualizer, it shows high on the right. I've even rotated the glass build plate with the same result.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas what could be causing this? The bed leveling image below was done immediately after manually leveling the bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/H70hm.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;3D graph of bed mesh&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/H70hm.png&quot; alt=&quot;3D graph of bed mesh&quot; title=&quot;3D graph of bed mesh&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28975" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2021-06-18T04:01:55.700" LastActivityDate="2021-06-26T11:44:18.223" Title="BLTouch always shows high on right side of the plate" Tags="|creality-ender-3|bltouch|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16560" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-06-18T05:03:42.697" Score="2" ViewCount="6009" Body="&lt;p&gt;I´ve been using my Ender 3 Pro for almost 1 year now. Always using the provided SD card. For a couple of days, the printed does not read any new file that I load to the SD card, but it does with the older files (and it then prints correctly as well).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried deleting some old files that I don't need, I tried turning it on with the SD card, I tried inserting the card after turning the printer on. It's always the same.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am using another SD card and it works properly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any idea?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28977" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-07-18T19:37:23.700" LastActivityDate="2022-12-10T23:03:15.370" Title="Ender 3 Pro not reading new G-code files on original SD Card" Tags="|creality-ender-3|microsd|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16561" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16560" CreationDate="2021-06-18T12:00:14.547" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;SD and MicroSD cards use a type of memory (Flash RAM) that is subject to wearing out -- the actual memory cells deteriorate very slightly each time data is written to them, and SD, MicroSD, and thumb drives typically don't use the very best flash RAM (as would hopefully be the case for internal Solid State Drives that house the operating system and user storage in your computer).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Further, the constant plugging and unplugging of these cards also puts wear on the connectors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Either of these factors can result in one or more devices losing the ability to read the card, and this can result in only old files being accessible (though it's much more common for the card to become read-only, or even become unreadable).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can still read the original card in your computer, please make a complete copy of the contents immediately, and then write those contents to a new card (as well as keeping a copy on your computer's storage) -- and throw the old card away, so you don't accidentally use it for anything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28508" LastActivityDate="2021-06-18T12:00:14.547" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16562" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-06-18T14:24:48.220" Score="2" ViewCount="131" Body="&lt;p&gt;Usually the hardness of the material is considered primary for nozzles used with abrasive filaments.  Has friction between between nozzle material and abrasive filaments been considered? It seems that friction as well as hardness would play a roll in how long the nozzle lasts.  Perhaps, this is considered with ruby tipped nozzles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15075" LastActivityDate="2021-06-18T19:47:18.290" Title="Friction between nozzle material and abrasive filaments" Tags="|nozzle|filament-choice|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16563" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16562" CreationDate="2021-06-18T14:34:13.323" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, Friction between nozzles and the material plays a part in the printing process. Eventually, the nozzle diameter will widen if the printer is using an abrasive filament that is using things like carbon fibre or iron. The ruby nozzle is essentially a catch-all that won't wear out no matter the filament you buy. However, the steel nozzle is good enough when it comes to most abrasive filaments; and it has the added bonus of insulating the molten filament from the outside air much better than the much more thermally conductive brass nozzles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12857" LastActivityDate="2021-06-18T14:34:13.323" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16564" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-06-18T14:51:37.793" Score="1" ViewCount="2057" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Ender 5 Pro with a BLTouch auto bed leveler, running  TH3D's version of Marlin: TH3D UFW 2.14. During my initial setup several months ago, I naively assumed that the BLTouch didn't need a manually leveled bed so I cranked the manual bed adjustment screws to be as compressed as possible. This has worked pretty well, until recent large prints have shown I need to adjust the back right of the bed as it's too low.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I adjusted all four of the the manual screws to be about halfway so I have room to play but when I run the Level Corners command, the first corner (front-left) is now way too high and the nozzle attempts to move several millimeters past where it should go (the plate moves up until it collides with the nozzle and then continues a few millimeters more...). I have tried poking every setting I can find but I cannot get the printer to reset what it thinks its z-offset should be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not sure what my next steps are as resetting bed leveling is not a common task from what I can tell.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28982" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-06-21T11:35:35.320" LastActivityDate="2021-07-21T13:03:30.350" Title="Re-doing manual bed leveling" Tags="|bed-leveling|creality-ender-5|th3d|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16566" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16567" CreationDate="2021-06-18T15:55:06.803" Score="1" ViewCount="234" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there any convention on how to mark an all metal hotend to distinguish it from a hotend with a PTFE tube in the heatbreak? Once assembled for a German Riprap 3D printer, they look exactly the same on the outside.   I'm trying to decide on a way of marking them to indicate the difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hotend with heatsink&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZljCB.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZljCB.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Exposed part of heatbreak between heater block and heatsink&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GpQtt.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GpQtt.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Easy to see PTFE tube on nozzle side of heatbreak (all metal hotend has an all metal heatbreak with no PTFE)&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VKfVG.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VKfVG.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even after removing heatsink, PTFE tube is difficult to see in heatbreak (all metal hotend has an all metal heatbreak with no PTFE)&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Injic.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Injic.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Nozzle end of all metal heatbreak&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/31MYU.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/31MYU.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Heatsink end of all metal heatbreak&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/srJZ2.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/srJZ2.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15075" LastEditorUserId="15075" LastEditDate="2021-06-18T18:38:34.223" LastActivityDate="2021-06-24T18:50:44.187" Title="Way to add identity to an all metal hot end" Tags="|hotend|all-metal-hotend|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16567" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16566" CreationDate="2021-06-18T18:50:25.763" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Given your heatbreaks are the same material and external dimensions, it seems that the most practical way to distinguish one from the other would be to mount the all metal heatbreaks in a heat sink that's anodized to some other color than natural aluminum -- red or blue, for instance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can't buy them that way, or already have plenty on hand, anodizing is fairly easy to do at home -- you need battery acid, a car battery (or heavy duty charger for one), and some strongly colored dye to apply after the anodize has established the oxide layer on the aluminum part.  There are many online references on how to proceed and how to stay safe while handling the acid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have machining capability, another option would be to make, say, a copper heat sink for the all metal heatbreak, while keeping the aluminum for the conventional one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28508" LastActivityDate="2021-06-18T18:50:25.763" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16568" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16562" CreationDate="2021-06-18T19:47:18.290" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Friction is known to differ and it has been considered at least in some products: &lt;a href=&quot;https://store.micro-swiss.com/products/plated-wear-resistant-nozzle-for-up-box&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; Micro-Swiss sells a plated nozzle with reduced friction and increased hardness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is not clear from any known measurement whether the friction plays any role in the print performances, since so far lower friction coatings (Nickel) are also harder, therefore you never know whether the increased lifespan is due to the reduced friction or the harder coating.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, I am not aware of any test where a lower friction nozzle results in higher flow rate and print speed. I am only aware of a &lt;a href=&quot;https://carbodeon.com/product/udiamond/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;diamond-filled PLA&lt;/a&gt; which claims higher printing speed, confirmed by &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.cnckitchen.com/blog/high-speed-printing-hot-end-temperatures-silicone-sock-and-materials&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;CNC kitchen&lt;/a&gt; (last graph).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2338" LastActivityDate="2021-06-18T19:47:18.290" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16569" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16574" CreationDate="2021-06-18T20:23:43.510" Score="4" ViewCount="184" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd like to print a mouse shell from food safe PLA.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I need it to be food safe, because sweat can dissolve any harmful chemical from it just like foods. I am not sure about how to finish it after sanding the result. I read that people use food safe epoxy to seal it before painting to get a smooth surface. I read that others seal it after painting to cover the paint, which is possibly not food safe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I am not sure if I should seal it before or after painting or maybe both? I read that some people use shellac or even nail polish instead of epoxy to get something that they think is food safe. So the entire topic is starting to get somewhat chaotic for me. What materials should I use for sealing and painting and in which order?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28988" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2021-06-19T11:03:31.540" LastActivityDate="2021-06-19T11:31:22.830" Title="How should I finish a food safe print?" Tags="|safety|material|food|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16570" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-06-18T20:50:09.503" Score="2" ViewCount="1703" Body="&lt;p&gt;I’m getting nothing but jams with a new BCN3D Sigma R19 printer, printing PLA at 195 °C, two brands (BCN’s own brand and Monoprice orange). 6.5 mm retraction, as used in BCN’s PLA profile. Using their fork of Cura. Full enclosure, but it gets maybe to 32 °C inside, just warm. It prints fine for a few layers, then it jams, usually partially-I caught it in the act and the extruder (the Bondtech dual gear Bowden extruder they switched to on this model) would make knocking sounds as it skipped steps, and the plastic under extrudes in spider webs. It would valiantly try to keep going, and just chew up the filament a little, then extrude, then skip, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After thinking the problem was the extruder, taking it apart, cleaning, trying a few different tensions on the hobbed gears, my attention shifted to the hotend. I did some cold pulls with nylon, and each time the nylon would come out with this frayed ring of plastic about 15 mm above the cone from the nozzle tip. It’s like it was a separate piece of plastic from the filament, but it seems like it constricts the path. &lt;strong&gt;This ring is about the depth where the heat break screws into the heat block.&lt;/strong&gt; I supposed it could have started higher in the cool end and gotten pushed down? I suspect the grooves pressed into the filament by the Bondtech might be prone to hang up on this plastic gunk ring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Their hotend design is all metal, similar to the V6 (and apparently manufactured custom for them by E3D). Different, taller nozzle. It has a 30 mm fan blowing on the fins. There is no shroud on the fan, like the blue thing on the V6. The heat block is halfway up into the enclosed part with the cool end and fan. The fan blows on the heat break and the block.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of my cold pulls shows a little bulge, right about where I think the brass nozzle butts into the heat break steel piece. I’m wondering if there is a gap there that plastic melts into? They do an inconvenient thing where they sell the hotend as a whole piece for $125, and apparently you can’t unscrew the nozzle like a V6, people report the threads get ripped out of the heat block. All to say, it isn’t advised to completely disassemble the hotend.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I thought the little fan might not be moving enough air across the cooling fins, so I tried to replace it with a new fan that moves more CFM, but it just screeches, it seems the fan isn’t really driven by 12 V, but maybe a PWM thing at 24 V. It was fine on 12 V DC when I bench tested it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I disassembled the cold end from the heat break, and verified it had thermal paste on the threads.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is if anyone has experience with the gunk ring? Is my heat break getting cooled down into the heat block, or is heat creep getting up into the cool end? Or is the little gap or chamfer where the heat break meets the nozzle causing clogs?&#xA;I can work on more cooling (faster fan), or design a shroud for the existing fan so it doesn’t cool the heat break+heater block), to  just not sure which.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eVGNx.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eVGNx.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: The filament partially jams (the extruder skips steps an knocks) even without printing, while just loading and purging over empty space, no retractions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27077" LastEditorUserId="27077" LastEditDate="2021-06-19T05:36:27.877" LastActivityDate="2021-11-03T05:24:15.333" Title="PLA Jamming- is the heat break too hot or too cold?" Tags="|hotend|filament-jam|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16571" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16578" CreationDate="2021-06-18T22:17:27.613" Score="1" ViewCount="309" Body="&lt;p&gt;Having started with an Ender 3, it just seemed natural to me that the heatbreak should not be load-bearing; Creality's stock hotend has 2 bolts holding the heat block to the heat sink, which of course waste some heating power and increase the cooling needed to avoid heat creep, but serve the important purpose of keeping the nozzle position rigid relative to the carriage and making it so you don't bend or snap the heatbreak when changing nozzles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looking at hotends (especially all-metal ones) for a possible future printer build, I'm surprised to see that many (most?) don't have this property, and have the heatbreak playing a load-bearing role. This seems really undesirable. Only the Mosquito &lt;em&gt;makes a point of&lt;/em&gt; doing this right, and supposedly has a patent on this or related design decisions. Is that really the case? Are there basic all-metal hotends that are designed to avoid making the heatbreak load-bearing that don't cost $150?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2021-06-21T16:03:14.647" Title="Hotends where heatbreak is not load-bearing?" Tags="|hotend|all-metal-hotend|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16572" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16582" CreationDate="2021-06-19T07:08:32.983" Score="2" ViewCount="592" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am pretty sure that sanding makes a lot of microplastics, so it would be nice to collect the dust, and melt it to got a blob of plastic again instead of millions of tiny particles. What is the best way for collecting it, do you use any dust extractor, or are there different techniques like sanding wet surfaces and filtering it from water?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28988" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2021-06-20T08:46:00.823" LastActivityDate="2021-06-21T16:54:34.340" Title="What is the best way to collect sanding dust?" Tags="|post-processing|safety|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16573" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16564" CreationDate="2021-06-19T10:06:55.260" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;A BLTouch doesn't level the bed, it compensates for the geometry and adjusts print head movement, it is always required to tram (level) the bed with respect to the nozzle X-Y plane (of which the Z is perpendicular to this plane). If the build plate is skew, the bottom of the print will be skew, the top will be square with the head movement plane (the default compensation of the BLTouch is smeared out over the first 10 mm of the print, note this can be disabled or height changed).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To properly tram the bed, you need some room for the screws to go up and down. Home the X, home the Y and finally home Z. Then you jog the nozzle down (using a printer interfacing application over USB or the LCD from the printer itself, optionally you can use a &lt;a href=&quot;/q/10573&quot;&gt;console&lt;/a&gt;, the latter is very handy for sending G-code commands for the Z-offset determination later) to the bed to fit a sheet of A4 or Us Letter paper (alternatively, use feeler gauges) between the nozzle and the heated bed (pulling the paper should give you a little resistance), de-power the steppers and manually move the print head and bed to reach all corners and adjust the screws to have the nozzle at a paper distance of the bed. Note that if the nozzle will not reach to the bed, Z=0, you need to disable the Z endstop with &lt;code&gt;M211 S0&lt;/code&gt;, don't forget to enable them after the Z-offset determination &lt;code&gt;M211 S1&lt;/code&gt;. Do home the printer after each manual movement and screw adjustment as moving it manually may introduce some extra clearance of induced torque on the head. Doing this manually will prevent damaging the bed opposed to moving the head over the build surface using the LCD movement commands (scratching the surface). Manually, you will be able to stop when the nozzle hits the surface, if so adjust corner screw of the corner you are moving to. Repeat this sequence for each corner multiple times until the bed is parallel to the X-Y print head plane. Now you are ready to set Z-offset, which is found in &lt;a href=&quot;/a/5858/&quot;&gt;this answer&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2021-06-19T10:06:55.260" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16574" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16569" CreationDate="2021-06-19T11:31:22.830" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're using food safe PLA, there are no &amp;quot;harmful chemicals&amp;quot; soluble in sweat. The food safety issues that remain are surface imperfections where bacteria or mold may grow. These are almost certainly not an issue unless you're actually eating from the object or otherwise putting it in your mouth/body. People touch similar objects and have them in contact with sweaty hands all the time - athletic equipment, bicycle handlebar grips, steering wheels, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a user with serious medical issues affecting their immune system, this still may be an issue and you need to follow whatever instructions medical professionals have given about contact with objects that may be contaminated. But otherwise there is no need for any coating for a mouse shell except for aesthetics. You can use whatever you like, but be aware that, unlike PLA, most coatings &lt;em&gt;do&lt;/em&gt; involve moderate to high levels of VOC (which are ideally down to non-harmful levels after it's finished setting/curing).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2021-06-19T11:31:22.830" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16575" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16572" CreationDate="2021-06-20T20:07:05.120" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;As an environmental thing, micro plastics are an urgent problem for ocean life, it’s getting into the entire food chain. With that in mind dumping it down the drain would be the worst, city filtration systems can’t get the tiny bits of plastic before it drains into the ocean. Sanding outside is kind of bad. I sand stuff over a lined waste basket outside, which maybe catches 75% of the dust. Inside (or outside) with a vacuum running would be good, I think best would be a vacuum with disposable bags. Yes it is still micro plastics, but it ends up at the dump, where the soil is already poisoned, and hopefully nowhere near the ocean/waterways, and likely will stay there while it breaks down. PLA takes ~80 years, but ABS takes 1000 years.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The idea of collecting the dust and fusing it sounds like it would be too much hassle to be feasible long term, it’s good, sustainable habits over years that add up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a side note, card scraping is a nice way to smooth 3D prints, that doesn’t make fine dust.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27077" LastEditorUserId="27077" LastEditDate="2021-06-20T20:47:11.110" LastActivityDate="2021-06-20T20:47:11.110" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16576" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5418" CreationDate="2021-06-21T11:48:28.000" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most glues will leave some type of visual stain.  The glues that won't leave some type of visual stain probably won't stick as well.  For example, you can use rubbery RTV type glues, but you will need surfaces designed to minimize the need for glue strength.  However, an advantage is the glue will flex.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My favorite is Gorilla impact resistant superglue.  Superglue breaks easily when flexed if not impact resistant.  If you want to go to the trouble, epoxies are best.  Rubbery type glues will work if you have enough surface area, especially if it is not all planar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15075" LastEditorUserId="15075" LastEditDate="2021-06-21T12:07:51.513" LastActivityDate="2021-06-21T12:07:51.513" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16577" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11178" CreationDate="2021-06-21T13:33:24.023" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;One other way a bed sensor may be preferable over a common limit switch: it automatically adjusts when you change out the build surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most glass build surfaces are anywhere from three to five millimeters thick, while the surface they replace (texture coated or uncoated fiberglass/resin, magnetic sheet, etc.) are around one to 1.5 mm thick -- that's a enough change in build surface height to be near the limits of the bed adjustment on my Ender 3, for instance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are ways to work around this, for instance with spacers that clip onto the bottom of the X gantry to trigger the Z-stop at a higher position -- but if you forget to install the spacer on a build surface change, you may end up scratching the coating on your glass bed (probably a bad thing) by dragging the nozzle across it, as well as potentially damaging the nozzle (cheap, but takes time to replace once you figure out why your prints are suddenly failing).  If you're using a bed sensor in place of a limit switch, this oversight can't happen, because the Z homing will automatically detect where to stop regardless what you've mounted on the bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28508" LastActivityDate="2021-06-21T13:33:24.023" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16578" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16571" CreationDate="2021-06-21T13:51:40.933" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The drop-in replacement all metal hotends for the Ender 3 that I've looked at seem to have the two screws -- though I've read/heard opinions that these are intended to be removed after assembly, these are common Mk. 8 type hot ends, but with 2 mm bore through the entire heat break instead of 4 mm.  That seems to be the only modification (other than not anodizing the aluminum heat sink).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While the brand name units of this type run approximately 65 USD at retail, they're available from Chinese vendors for under 10 USD plus a few dollars shipping, if you don't mind waiting a few weeks instead of a couple days to receive your part -- and if they aren't from the same production but sold without extensive vendor support, they're very close physical copies, according to review videos I've seen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's also possible to replace just the heat break for similar cost, either in stainless or titanium, with a 2 mm bore unit; this would obviously preserve whatever additional mounting hardware exists on/between your original heat block and heat sink.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;BTW, if they aren't already, replacing the screws with stainless will significantly reduce heat loss through the screws -- stainless is a much poorer conductor of heat than common steels used with plated screws.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28508" LastEditorUserId="28508" LastEditDate="2021-06-21T14:42:41.513" LastActivityDate="2021-06-21T14:42:41.513" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16579" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16570" CreationDate="2021-06-21T14:32:18.060" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is this what your hotends look like?&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/R6FKi.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/R6FKi.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They look like Bowden tube extruders.  Your images are consistent with heat creek for Bowden tub extruders.  Can you print with the enclosure open to see if the problem is at least less?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a full discussion on heat creep.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/15629/what-are-ways-to-avoid-heat-creep&quot;&gt;What are ways to avoid heat creep?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15075" LastActivityDate="2021-06-21T14:32:18.060" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16580" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16571" CreationDate="2021-06-21T16:03:14.647" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You ask in general, not specifically for Ender, so since you mention the Mosquito, which has a characteristic shape and a size, the obvious alternative which doesn't cost that much is the Phaetus Dragon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It copies the idea of the Mosquito, but it is repackaged in a shape and size fully equivalent to standard v6 hotends so it's a drop-in replacement for any v6 hotend. You don't have one, but in general...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Footnote: Slice Engineering got the patent in US, but not in Europe and China, yet. Also, in Europe &lt;a href=&quot;https://register.epo.org/application?tab=doclist&amp;amp;number=EP18801363&amp;amp;lng=en&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;their idea&lt;/a&gt; apparently was &lt;a href=&quot;https://register.epo.org/application?documentId=E5RB12D46652DSU&amp;amp;number=EP18801363&amp;amp;lng=en&amp;amp;npl=false&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;found&lt;/a&gt; as not original. Who knows...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2338" LastActivityDate="2021-06-21T16:03:14.647" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16581" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15395" CreationDate="2021-06-21T16:11:06.747" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The rated build space for the Ender 3 takes into account the few mm of inaccessible bed width at the Xmin side, along with a similar strip at the Xmax where the hotend carriage runs into the bracket that holds the wheels for that side's Z frame.  If your slicer has an Ender 3 profile, the space it allows you to use will print on the Ender 3 (unless you have bull clips holding a glass build surface in place; then they'll interfere, but mainly on the Ymin and Ymax edges).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't forget, even though your actual bed is 235 mm square, the &lt;em&gt;usable&lt;/em&gt; build volume is rated as only 200 mm square (by 225 mm high).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28508" LastActivityDate="2021-06-21T16:11:06.747" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16582" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16572" CreationDate="2021-06-21T16:54:34.340" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I decided to collect the dust and treat both PLA and ABS with chemicals to completely break them down. That solves the issue and I won't rely on false hopes that somehow it does not end up in the environment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28988" LastActivityDate="2021-06-21T16:54:34.340" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16583" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6221" CreationDate="2021-06-21T22:03:17.197" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The problem is not in drivers! In the file located at Ultimate Cura -&amp;gt; Contents/Resources/USBPrinting/AutoDetectBaudJob.py in line 74 in the if statement you should replace &lt;code&gt;and&lt;/code&gt; with &lt;code&gt;or&lt;/code&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;if b&amp;quot;ok&amp;quot; in line or b&amp;quot;T:&amp;quot; in line: # or instead of and&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="29022" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-06-21T22:19:26.933" LastActivityDate="2021-06-21T22:19:26.933" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16584" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16523" CreationDate="2021-06-21T22:22:22.893" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The zig-zag pattern are known for this kind of fluke...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I will use Cura to demonstrate, but it's gonna happen on the majority of slicers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See this example:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uK0sk.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uK0sk.png&quot; alt=&quot;Image showing air gaps when using zig-zag fill for top/bottom layers&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because nothing is really a circle on a cartesian plane and there's resolution limitations on the real world, the slicer has to account for these and, assuming you are using zig-zag to save time, they are doing what is expected. The Zig-zag pattern is a continuous, fast way to fill the top/bottom layers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, see this lines pattern top layer:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3CzgP.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3CzgP.png&quot; alt=&quot;Image showing smaller air gaps when using lines fill for top/bottom layers&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It has much smaller air gaps. Every time the nozzle finishes a line, it has the chance to reposition itself to make a much smaller gap, just because isn't continuous.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So yeah, the air-gaps are a &amp;quot;feature&amp;quot; for zig-zag patterns, but you can mitigate this effect reducing the line width on top/botton layers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/V4zXp.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/V4zXp.png&quot; alt=&quot;Image showing kinda-smaller air gaps with zig-zag patterns when reducing the line withd&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems that increasing &amp;quot;Skin Overlap Percentage&amp;quot; on cura mitigates this effect too, but i really haven't seen the effects of this setting on a real life object&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12795" LastActivityDate="2021-06-21T22:22:22.893" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16585" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16587" CreationDate="2021-06-21T23:14:21.703" Score="3" ViewCount="21247" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm printing a Soma cube I found on Thingiverse -- it's a puzzle toy I remember from the early 1970s, and the kind of thing that ought to be really easy-peasy to print.  Each of the seven pieces is made of four cubes (or three for one piece) joined face to face in every possible combination, so that they can be assembled to make a single 3x3 cube (the claim in the day was, in literally tens of millions of ways -- though many of those were reflections or rotations of others).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Problem is, in order for the seven pieces to fit together correctly to make the 3x3 cube, they have to be flat and square on all faces, and dimensionally accurate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have an Ender 3 that's just a few weeks old (first print was May 8th to 9th of this year, also my own first 3D print).  I'm printing these parts in gray Amazon Basics PLA at 200 °C, with the Creality coated glass build surface at 55 °C.  I'm printing on a raft; the first layer goes down well, but over the course of the first forty or so layers, I get this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GCk17.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Raft lifting from build surface&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GCk17.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Raft lifting from build surface&quot; title=&quot;Raft lifting from build surface&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I presume this is due to the upper layers shrinking, though the horizontal dimensions look fine at the level where I stopped the print.  I have Cura Slicer 4.9.1 set to print with no part cooling for initial layer, increasing to 100 % at layer 4.  When I removed this part (immediately after stopping the print, so the bed was still in the low 50s), it was still stuck fairly well -- except where it had lifted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What's causing this warping/lifting?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28508" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2021-06-23T06:12:16.557" LastActivityDate="2021-06-23T07:47:04.057" Title="What's causing my PLA prints to lift like this?" Tags="|creality-ender-3|adhesion|warping|cooling|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16586" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-06-22T07:39:28.510" Score="3" ViewCount="1543" Body="&lt;p&gt;I didn't have any printer-related problem for the past 6 months, but now all of a sudden my Prusa MK3S stopped extruding during printing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is very strange as I can easily load\unload filament and control the step motor via Settings\Move axis\Extruder. When I did so, the filament got extruded normally.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, when I try to print something or do First Layer Calibration, nothing comes out of the nozzle. I tried changing the Live Z (maybe nozzle too low) and it didn't help. I once managed to extrude &lt;em&gt;something&lt;/em&gt; by increasing the temperature and the flow (in the printer's menu) to a ridiculous value of 999. Obviously, this isn't the best way to solve the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there an easy way to fix this? I only had this problem yesterday and with some midrange-priced PETG&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: I tried different filaments, default slicer profiles, reinstalling slicer (prusa slicer) and drivers. None of these methods really helped.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16798" LastEditorUserId="16798" LastEditDate="2021-06-22T11:44:03.247" LastActivityDate="2022-01-13T04:46:11.327" Title="Prusa MK3S not extruding during printing but extruder working" Tags="|prusa-i3|extruder|extrusion|prusaslicer|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16587" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16585" CreationDate="2021-06-22T08:56:04.870" Score="4" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What's causing this warping/lifting?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The warping and lifting is caused by insufficient adhesion. This can be caused by an incorrect first layer (it is difficult to see the raft, but generally, rafts have no solid bottom, so less adhesion as there is less material), e.g. not sufficiently squished to the plate. Note that a raft is absolutely unnecessary for PLA, you should use it for high temperature filaments that experience a lot of shrinkage, PLA does not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What you should do is make sure the bed is completely clean and free from grease. Use isopropyl/isopropanol alcohol to clean the bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Temperature of the bed should be fine, but you could try to notch it up with 5 °C.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've seen people use an adhesive between the bed and the print, even on coated beds. But, I can imagine you don't want to try that, it needs more cleaning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, make sure that the printer isn't in front of a window or in the path of an air-conditioning airflow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-06-22T10:45:12.823" LastActivityDate="2021-06-22T10:45:12.823" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16588" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16133" CreationDate="2021-06-22T10:09:13.463" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You need a better filament quality I have the same printer and I had switched to Overture. Know use PLA Plus  or (PLA+)due to not sticking to the bed well enough and your issue. And this issue may be the way the entire module moves up and down the threads may need better positioning like tighten loosen or even level it out check for a bend.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="29024" LastActivityDate="2021-06-22T10:09:13.463" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16589" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16586" CreationDate="2021-06-22T11:26:09.630" Score="1" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;It doesn't seem to be heat creep. See &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/15629/what-are-ways-to-avoid-heat-creep&quot;&gt;What are ways to avoid heat creep?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Have you measured the actually temperature of the heater block?  You may have a failing sensor (thermistor) or sensor circuitry.  Optically is the best way to measure.  The least expensive way is with multimeters that come with a temperature sensor, such as a thermocouple (lowest cost about $20 U.S.).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15075" LastEditorUserId="15075" LastEditDate="2021-06-22T11:52:36.197" LastActivityDate="2021-06-22T11:52:36.197" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16590" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16585" CreationDate="2021-06-22T11:51:30.773" Score="1" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;What has worked for me is to keep the bed temperature constant at 60 °C.  Use a higher extrusion temperature for the first layer to promote adhesion.  (Differences in PLA composition could cause these temperatures to vary.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Sometimes it helps to have an bed temperature for the 1st layer as high as 75 °C to promote adhesion.  While depositing the first layer with this bed temperature promotes adhesion, leaving the bed temperature this high actually decreases it, besides risking the print sagging under its weight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Additional adhesion layers such as glue sticks might help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If not already using it, less stiff fill patterns (rectangular) can help, as well as a lower percentage fill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15075" LastEditorUserId="15075" LastEditDate="2021-06-22T16:09:22.333" LastActivityDate="2021-06-22T16:09:22.333" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16591" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16585" CreationDate="2021-06-22T12:09:54.397" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you know that the bed surface is clean and that the filament and the bed material are compatible (as in this case), you may want to optimise the bed temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is known that the plastic shrinks a little, so the upper layers pull and the bottom layer has to hold everything flat. It happens also with PLA.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Too hot bed? sometime adhesion is increased, but the first layer is soft and all the flatness work is held by the adhesive. It will likely fail.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Too cold? the first layer will hold well its shape, but little adhesion will result in it failing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can't reach a good adhesion, you have to optimise the bed temperature yourself. Print a wedge at different bed temperatures and pick the best result.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See &lt;a href=&quot;https://magigoo.com/blog/3d-printing-perfect-first-layer-magigoo/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; for the detailed instructions and &lt;a href=&quot;https://magigoo.com/blog/prevent-warping-temperature-and-first-layer-adhesion-magigoo/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; for an explanation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For information, from personal experience sometimes I had better adhesion by lowering the temperature. For example, 75 °C for PETG seems definitely too much to me, because at that temperature PETG has almost no rigidity. The same with nylon: at 100-120 °C I couldn't get it to work. At 80 °C I could get some results. PETG at 60 °C is good, PLA at 50 °C max, ABS up to 110 °C but 100 °C may be already good (the issue is different with ABS)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2338" LastEditorUserId="2338" LastEditDate="2021-06-23T07:47:04.057" LastActivityDate="2021-06-23T07:47:04.057" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16592" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16585" CreationDate="2021-06-22T18:20:53.473" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You need to get a little closer in your first layer. I have this same machine (and several others). You shouldn't have that problem with PLA, it's a lot more common with ABS.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So if it's pulling away from the bed, it hasn't adhered all the way, to begin with. Try micro stepping closer with the firmware or just hand adjusting the wheels a slight amount closer and get a good first layer smoosh!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you need more help with this printer, I have a whole playlist of videos specific to it at on &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLPb81Z-Cw4oheuYfZy9GHORyQOY0aDgod&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;YouTube&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;that should be of help to you!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Y878Y.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Layer adhesion comparison chart&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Y878Y.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Layer adhesion comparison chart&quot; title=&quot;Layer adhesion comparison chart&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="29029" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2021-06-23T06:13:34.630" LastActivityDate="2021-06-23T06:13:34.630" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16593" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16133" CreationDate="2021-06-22T18:23:53.623" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;First, remove the Bowden tube coupler from the extruder and clip that mangled end. If the tube isn't straight, it will cause friction and other problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second, your filament should not have gear marks biting into it but the white tube shouldn't be visible between the gears.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="29029" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-06-22T18:36:04.507" LastActivityDate="2021-06-22T18:36:04.507" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16594" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16085" CreationDate="2021-06-22T18:29:44.420" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;First, check that your belts are tight, on the X-axis and the bed. If not, tighten them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second, grab the hot end and wiggle the gantry, and make sure it is not loose. If there is any play at all, tighten the eccentric nuts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this doesn't fix your problems, check out this playlist I put together for the Ender 3 V2, it should answer everything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLPb81Z-Cw4oheuYfZy9GHORyQOY0aDgod&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Ultimate Guide to the Ender 3 V2&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="29029" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-06-22T21:56:22.963" LastActivityDate="2021-06-22T21:56:22.963" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16595" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-06-22T19:07:59.220" Score="5" ViewCount="911" Body="&lt;p&gt;I come to you all in my time of need, as I have nowhere else to turn. I’ve been a 3D printer for about two years now. I have an Ender 5 Plus.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Up to this point, all of my prints were fine straight out of the box; no need to calibrate anything besides the bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have just recently upgraded to an all-metal dual gear extruder. Before I did anything, I made sure to calibrate my extruder E-steps and my material flow. After that, all my calibrations said that my printer was ready to go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let me preface this with: I have been struggling with this issue for about a month. I looked up all the information I could but to no avail. I could not fix the walls of my print delaminating from one another.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as exterior appearances go the prints seem structurally “fine“. But the moment I try and give them a nice sanding to post-process them, the top layers begin to come off. Similarly, if I print a regular calibration cube or something like it all I need to do is put my fingernail in between the walls and the outermost layer will start to peel away from the body after all my test prints.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It feels like the material wants to bond together, but it never does. I have done everything from leveling my bed as close as possible to the nozzle, slowing down the print speed to about half of what I normally print at (mind you I’ve never had this problem even when printing at my original speed), even disable compensate for wall overlaps, and not to mention I’m printing pretty hot with my PLA at about 230 °C and even that doesn’t seem to work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I could increase the material flow slightly, but then my walls would not be calibrated anymore; increasing the possibility for over-extrusion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I figured this all out by printing a mask that would take 2 to 3 days to print.&#xA;It took me a while to model all the miles, so you could imagine my dismay as I begin to process the mask for painting. When I was sanding, the layers kept lifting up. It’s not like I was putting excessive pressure or anything. I figured I could put somebody filler on the affected areas, but it quickly grew out of control.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As I’m sure some of you could relate, I bought a new roll of filament just for that project; to have it wasted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;During printing, I’ve noticed a type of “salmon skin” effect going on. It seemed like those areas suffered the worst delamination.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I’ve also noticed on some larger prints, that the consistency of the outermost perimeter is rather non-uniform at certain layers. What I mean by non-uniform is that it seems like the type of “banding” is going on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it’s any help, I am using Cura slicer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are some links to the pictures of a print I just started to test if I fixed the issue, unfortunately, I have not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Xdui7.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Xdui7.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Example of delamination in printed part 1&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hxKuI.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hxKuI.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Example of delamination in printed part 2&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aOetT.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aOetT.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Example of delamination in printed part 3&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you can see in the pictures, it was delaminating. Unfortunately, it was just from some gentle pressure I applied with the edge of my fingernail.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I’m at my wit's end right now and have no other ideas of what to try to rectify this issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: 6/23/2021-&#xA;So after a test print, for some reason the perimeters I have not delaminated, at least yet, but I have found other oddities that I have not seen before.&#xA;Do you have any suggestions?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vCZ9E.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NGwHh.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fWE2z.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IvbEP.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0Le6h.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/h3AsW.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LntTL.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/75WNJ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/obMJM.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I calibrated my E steps by following this video tutorial&#xA;&lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/rp3r921DBGI?start=0&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did it hot and with the nozzle on&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="29030" LastEditorUserId="29030" LastEditDate="2021-06-23T23:02:46.393" LastActivityDate="2023-12-02T23:01:17.237" Title="Perimeters/shells not properly fusing - delamination" Tags="|print-quality|troubleshooting|post-processing|creality-ender-5|delamination|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16596" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-06-22T20:46:21.950" Score="1" ViewCount="1016" Body="&lt;p&gt;When printing parts that fit together, there's a need to offset them from each other with a slight gap to provide for the printer tolerances. It's possible to take that into account from the very beginning when designing parts, but it makes the initial design far more complicated. Is it possible to effectively &amp;quot;offset&amp;quot; all faces of a part, the same way you' offset lines of a sketch?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Essentially, asking the same question as this, but for OnShape:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/2970/how-to-add-tolerances-gaps-in-123d-design&quot;&gt;How to add tolerances/gaps in 123d Design?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="29031" LastActivityDate="2021-06-22T20:46:21.950" Title="How to add tolerances/gaps in OnShape?" Tags="|3d-design|cad|print-preparation|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16597" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16596" CreationDate="2021-06-22T20:46:21.950" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;OnShape has a &amp;quot;Move Face&amp;quot; tool that can do exactly this: select the relevant faces to move, and then choose &amp;quot;offset&amp;quot; as the &amp;quot;Move Type&amp;quot;. You can do all your offsets at once, but because I'm often selecting a lot of faces, I find it easiest to create one offset per part, and hide the other parts to be able to drag to select groups of faces at once. (and then I use a variable to hold the amount by which to offset). I find this makes it easier to fix the offsets when making changes to the parts earlier in the part history.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/afeg0.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/afeg0.png&quot; alt=&quot;OnShape offset face dialog&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="29031" LastActivityDate="2021-06-22T20:46:21.950" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16598" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2970" CreationDate="2021-06-22T20:51:48.497" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;AFAICT Push/Pull faces is the closest thing to what you're looking for. eg: &lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/oSkTxuCRLMg?start=38&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In OnShape there is an &amp;quot;offset face&amp;quot; command that allows applying such an offset to multiple faces at once: &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/16596/how-to-add-tolerances-gaps-in-onshape/16597#16597&quot;&gt;How to add tolerances/gaps in OnShape?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately I'm not aware of a way to do exactly the same thing in 123D Design, but I'm far less proficient with that tool (as Alucard Pawpad &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/3717/29031&quot;&gt;noted&lt;/a&gt;, though, it is possible to just select multiple faces at the same time and manipulate them all together, which is somewhat similar)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="29031" LastEditorUserId="29031" LastEditDate="2021-06-22T21:16:02.313" LastActivityDate="2021-06-22T21:16:02.313" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16599" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16585" CreationDate="2021-06-23T02:11:50.177" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Increase bed adhesion and/or decrease temperature gradient over the part. As the object builds, and it gets further away from the heated build plate, the plastic gets colder and shrinks. The bottom stays warm and does not shrink, this makes the part want to bow/warp. At the plastic’s glass temperature, where it transitions from liquid to solid (PLA is 60 °C), it has little shrink. That’s why heated beds stick to the plastic, but as it cools the object pops off-it shrinks and breaks the bond.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other answers have good advice-clean oils off the bed, ensure the first layer is squished into the bed. Ensure the bed is level, so the first layer is squished down uniformly. I would disagree that an adhesive is not necessary. I use a glue stick and it works, where glass alone couldn’t keep my corners stuck down. It is common to run a 60 °C bed for the first PLA layer and cool it off 5 degrees, as a little cooler can still adhere but have less tendency for the part to “elephant foot” from the bottom layers being too warm and gradually deforming. Your 55 °C seems fine, you could still cool it off to 50 °C. I don’t think there is any benefit to running it extra hot (unless the glass surface runs cooler than the bed thermistor reports) as it will be more prone to elephant foot the part.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I felt compelled to add to the other answers is that if the upper layers aren’t as cold, i.e. they are closer in temperature to the bed layers, less of a temperature gradient over the part, they won’t shrink as much and will have less strength to warp and peel up the corners. I’ve used a couple of 150 W heat lamps, shining at the bed, and have been able to print big flat objects without a brim. It especially helps in the winter. The cooling fans, while they help the print quality, increase the coldness/shrink of the upper layers. I think it would be worthwhile to try less cooling fan, so long as the object doesn’t deform/sag. Often the same corner will lift; if something makes it cooler on that corner, like the cooling fan blows on it longer, the heat break fan blows on it, or it’s draftier. If so, a different part orientation could possibly help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One nuclear option you can try on large flat prints, if you just can’t keep the brim or raft stuck down with adhesive and whatnot, is to pause a few layers in, and tape the brim down with painter's tape.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27077" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-06-23T04:59:53.500" LastActivityDate="2021-06-23T04:59:53.500" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16600" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-06-23T07:38:13.437" Score="1" ViewCount="211" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have Elegoo Saturn for few days and it makes sometimes artifacts as in the image:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/G0TI1.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/G0TI1.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Elegoo Saturn's support supposes that it is caused by the model support. But to me the artifact looks very &amp;quot;digital&amp;quot;. Might a problem with Chitubox in the case of 4k displays.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The density of the support structure is typical for default values in Chitubox 1.9.1. More than this and resin sticks between the&#xA;support, makes it difficult for the air to flow, suction appears and&#xA;makes holes in the model.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Once the bottom of the cone is printed, it also becomes a support of the higher layer next to be printed. So the&#xA;discrepancy would self-correct itself and disappear in higher parts of the model. But it goes up the cone without any change.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The raised part has very sharp borders which form a perfect, precise vertical plane. It looks nothing like a mechanical problem&#xA;with the support.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The raised part is very thin, about 0.5 width. A discrepancy between two parts of the model caused by a weak support would create&#xA;a single, possibly wide deformation and not two close, razor-sharp discontinuities&#xA;which precisely continue forever and have a perfect surface between them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The bottom of the cone does not show the arching&#xA;characteristic for a weak support and for a reason: I made the bottom surface slightly&#xA;diagonal to have the layer self-support effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The problem shows rarely, in about 10% of the cones and if they are accompanied by a large, complex model placed nearby. When I changed the complex model to its never version, the cones printed all without any problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If you look at the close-up, the layers are perfectly horizontal to the built plate and thus do not show any mechanical problem with the&#xA;support. There is a normal layering visible even on the vertical two shear surfaces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What you think about the possible cause?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19813" LastEditorUserId="19813" LastEditDate="2021-06-24T10:04:05.873" LastActivityDate="2021-06-24T10:04:05.873" Title="Elegoo Saturn: artifacts which looks like a slicer bug" Tags="|dlp|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16604" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16605" CreationDate="2021-06-23T13:21:36.157" Score="9" ViewCount="2024" Body="&lt;p&gt;A frequently discussed update to a 3D printer is the so-called leveling sensor; this sensor can be inductive, capacitive, optical or mechanical (i.e pressure or physically touching, like a BLTouch).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is supposed to level your bed, providing  improved first layer adherence and thus less failed prints.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How does this automatic bed leveling work?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2023-04-13T18:10:51.877" LastActivityDate="2023-11-06T15:05:11.737" Title="Automatic Bed Leveling (ABL) with a sensor (BLTouch, inductive, capacitive), how does it work?" Tags="|bltouch|knowledgebase|inductive-sensor|automatic-bed-leveling|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16605" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16604" CreationDate="2021-06-23T13:21:36.157" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;The issues/questions raised about the automatic bed leveling using e.g. a BLTouch probe at this stack require a more in depth description of the automatic leveling functionality in general, this answers aims on describing how this works.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Definition of &amp;quot;bed leveling&amp;quot;&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let us begin with saying that such sensors systems alone will &lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;never level your bed&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt;, this is a misconception that is easily concluded from the terms being used (terms like Auto Bed Leveling, ABL). Using such sensors will not physically change the &amp;quot;level&amp;quot; of your bed.&lt;em&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1)&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/em&gt; Furthermore, the process of leveling your build surface/heated bed is commonly known as &lt;em&gt;tramming&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Tramming&lt;/strong&gt; is the process of adjusting the build surface to be parallel to the X-axis and Y-axis of the 3D printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But, &lt;a href=&quot;/a/13471&quot;&gt;when do you need such a functionality&lt;/a&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2)&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/em&gt;? What if the bed surface isn't completely flat/square? Tramming such a surface is difficult and that surface will not be perpendicular to the X-Y plane of the nozzle... Why a bed is not perfectly flat can be caused by the manufacturing process, handling (during shipment, dropping tools on the surface, etc.), the way the bed is mounted and thermal stresses of non-uniform heating.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Basics&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many printers use endstops to determine the origin of the printer, these aren't essential for the printer, but very useful for the operator. Endstops allow for setting the reference from a known position to the origin of the printer. In fact, the sophisticated leveling sensors are nothing more than the simple Z-endstop except that the sensor is mounted onto the print head, it allows for probing the bed in more positions than an endstop limit switch mounted on the frame’s Z-axis.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In order to be able to print consistently, you should provide a bed that is properly trammed (to aid adhesion/prevent objects to not stick to the build plate). But, if for some reason, the surface contains imperfections, the normal tramming of the build surface using just the Z-endstop and the leveling screws might not be sufficient.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;What does this so-called &amp;quot;leveling&amp;quot; do?&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using the ABL features from firmware will enable the use of a sensor to scan the surface of the build surface/heated bed to create a digital representation of the topology of the surface. This scanned surface includes the imperfections of the surface (this is depending on the option to process the measurement points of the scanning process, the more probing points the better the geometry can be mapped). E.g. just scanning 3 points will only result in a tilted plane (e.g. Ultimaker), but, scanning multiple points in a grid style process, the surface can be mapped to a complex surface describing the shape. So, if a surface isn't fully flat/square, the scanned surface provides a digital copy of the shape of the build plate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;How is the scanned surface applied?&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that this scanning of the surface is generally done at a distance from the actual nozzle (except for pressure sensor systems where the nozzle is used as the probe), the images below show this for a BLTouch sensor and an inductive/capacitive sensor. For an inductive sensor this is the distance of detecting metal (minus the distance to the nozzle), for a BLTouch this is based on the triggering point of the extendable probe, see &lt;a href=&quot;/a/5858&quot;&gt;this answer&lt;/a&gt; (the image below depict the terminology). The operator of the printer needs to determine at which distance this bed has been scanned. This is commonly known as determining the Z-offset. The Z-offset can be set using a terminal or through the display. Setting this Z-offset is described in detail in &amp;quot;&lt;a href=&quot;/q/9820&quot;&gt;Specifying Z offset in Marlin firmware&lt;/a&gt;&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once the shape of the bed is captured (G-code command &lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#G29:_Detailed_Z-Probe&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;code&gt;G29&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/a&gt;) and &lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#M500:_Store_parameters_in_non-volatile_storage&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;stored&lt;/a&gt; and the correct distance (Z-offset) set with &lt;code&gt;M851 Zx.xx&lt;/code&gt; (or through the display), the &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/13872/5740&quot;&gt;use of the shape needs to be activated&lt;/a&gt; in the starting G-code section of the G-code file of the print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The nozzle will now be following the bed shape to improve the bed adhesion, this compensation is by default set to be &lt;a href=&quot;/a/6905/&quot;&gt;smeared out in 10 mm&lt;/a&gt;, but can be disabled or changed to any other value using &lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#M420:_Leveling_On.2FOff.2FFade_.28Marlin.29&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;code&gt;M420 Zxx&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/a&gt;. The nozzle will print in the X-Y plane without compensation after the compensation distance. If you do not tram the bed correctly, the bottom of that print object will thus not be square to the height! See question &amp;quot;&lt;a href=&quot;/q/6904&quot;&gt;Does auto leveling result in sheared prints?&lt;/a&gt;&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wdto7.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;BLTouch or 3DTouch sensor Z-offset definition&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wdto7.png&quot; alt=&quot;BLTouch or 3DTouch sensor Z-offset definition&quot; title=&quot;BLTouch or 3DTouch sensor Z-offset definition&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2sGwU.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Inductive/capacitive proximity sensor Z-offset definition&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2sGwU.png&quot; alt=&quot;Inductive/capacitive proximity sensor Z-offset definition&quot; title=&quot;Inductive/capacitive proximity sensor Z-offset definition&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1)&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/em&gt; &lt;em&gt;Do note that actual leveling the bed is possible in some firmware flavors, but this is only possible if more individual controlled Z-steppers are used to move the bed/nozzle assembly!&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2)&lt;/sup&gt; Please note that firmware development has progressed over the years, e.g. using a recent version of Marlin, you can change the firmware to use UBL (see question &lt;a href=&quot;/q/18451/&quot;&gt;What is ABL or UBL? Is this the same?&lt;/a&gt;). With UBL you technically do not need a leveling sensor, but, this is a laborious process to do this manually.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2023-11-06T15:05:11.737" LastActivityDate="2023-11-06T15:05:11.737" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16606" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16437" CreationDate="2021-06-23T14:41:50.583" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was experiencing similar issues on my Raise3D Pro2Plus. I've printed near 20 small cylinders to try and fine-tune the settings to get densities that are close to the theoretical density and right now am sitting comfortably around 80 %. Here is what I've found&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Temperature of the build plate and extruder have had a large effect on the quality of the print (obviously), to the point where 3-4 ° have a noticeable effect on print quality. I have settled on an extruder temperature of 252 °C and a bed temperature of 82 °C. I also print in an enclosure which I imagine is necessary due to the shrinkage seen in PMMA.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A lot of my problems were with bed adhesion. The Buildtak that came on the Raise3D worked for a while but the higher temperatures eventually caused the adhesive to fail and bubble up where I was trying to print. Blue tape and purple glue stick worked sometimes but would often detach halfway through the raft. What I've found that works reliably is Kapton tape covered in a purple glue stick. This has yet to fail me and the only downside is that I often have to reapply the Kapton after every 2 or so prints which is a small price to pay for me as my regular prints take 3-4 days.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just for reference, I print at 30 mm/s, 1 mm nozzle, 0.29 mm layer height. I definitely get your frustration on trying to find a good resource for settings. Most I could find were generic ranges for temperatures and speeds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26295" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-06-24T02:40:10.780" LastActivityDate="2021-06-24T02:40:10.780" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16607" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16586" CreationDate="2021-06-23T15:37:02.587" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;As it turned out, rebuilding the extruder actually helped. I took it apart to the point where both fans were loose as well as the extruder motor and the hotend. I didn't find anything wrong after a quick look so I put it all back together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then i ran the first layer calibration and for some reason it worked. I know it's neither the most satisfying solution, nor the most informative one, so sorry about that. Either way, thank you for the suggestions, I still have no idea what caused the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That being said, I hypothesize that something was wrong with the hotend. That is because when I had this probem, molten filament wouldn't exit the heated nozzle on its own. Now when I heat up the hotend, the filament comes out (without the motor working)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16798" LastEditorUserId="16798" LastEditDate="2021-06-23T15:43:43.440" LastActivityDate="2021-06-23T15:43:43.440" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16608" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-06-23T16:56:23.543" Score="3" ViewCount="808" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an Ender 3 Pro with a magnetic bed. Recently, I've come across an issue I've never had before. The printer bed is higher on the front and back edges, along the Y-axis. It's okay in the middle of the bed from left to the right, but when I start moving the Y-axis nozzle gets closer to the bed. I've drawn a picture of the close areas approximately. Red areas are the areas in which the nozzle starts touching the bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LeVSv.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LeVSv.png&quot; alt=&quot;Red areas are the areas which nozzle starts touching the bed.&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not used to fixing problems on my printer, but I tried loosening side screws to check bends on extrusions. I've tried it several times but it didn't solve the problem. Then I've removed the bed to tighten the screws on the part moving on the Y-axis. It didn't work either. I'm not sure if I did things correctly but I assume that I did. I also think that the bed may be warped, but I'm not sure because it wasn't not a long time ago. What could cause this problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28380" LastEditorUserId="28380" LastEditDate="2021-06-23T17:46:59.433" LastActivityDate="2021-07-23T19:08:15.703" Title="Ender 3 bed level issues along Y axis" Tags="|creality-ender-3|bed-leveling|bed|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16609" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16608" CreationDate="2021-06-23T17:11:13.383" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;A bend in the frame extrusion won't affect the bed this way on an Ender 3 -- the bed rides on a carriage with (IIRC) four V-groove wheels, similar to the Z and X axis carriages.  If your bed is the same front and back, but that's higher (relative to the nozzle) than the middle, it's because &lt;em&gt;the bed itself&lt;/em&gt; has a curve.  This is more common (in my experience) with the right and left edges high relative to the middle, but the mechanism is the same.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, preheat the bed and let it stay hot for ten minutes or longer, then check again.  Mine flattens out almost completely when the temperature is fully equalized; if this does the trick, you'll just need to remember to preheat the bed several minutes before starting each print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If that doesn't fix the problem, then either you'll need to shim up the center of the bed by an appropriate amount (tissue paper or typing paper work, though they tend to get thinner over time), or you'll need to install a rigid build surface (the Creality polymer coated glass one costs barely more than a spool of basic filament).  Do be aware that a glass build plate will raise your build surface, and may require adjusting the Z-stop to prevent dragging the nozzle even with the adjusting springs fully compressed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28508" LastActivityDate="2021-06-23T17:11:13.383" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16610" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-06-23T17:47:32.567" Score="2" ViewCount="481" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought PLA Wood for my planned Dactyl Manuform. But now the question is whether this will melt or deform in the sun.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I live in Germany, where we reach some days at times 32 °C. However, the keyboard will stand on my desk and will also be directly exposed to the sun.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now I am worried that this could already be deformed after a few days/months.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I rather buy PETG or ABS and print the parts with it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or does anyone have experience with PLA in the sun?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Filament: Giantarm PLA Wood&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="29045" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-07-23T18:41:38.780" LastActivityDate="2021-07-23T18:41:38.780" Title="PLA for Dactyl Manuform print | Which material for printing the shell" Tags="|pla|filament|diy-3d-printer|material|filament-choice|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16611" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16610" CreationDate="2021-06-23T18:01:44.427" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can't comment directly on Giantarm PLA Wood, but I can give two endpoints: I have an antenna sleeve (for the amateur radio antenna on my car, to keep it from folding when it shouldn't) printed from black generic PLA; it stands in direct sun and has so far withstood &lt;em&gt;air temperature&lt;/em&gt; of 37 °C (in direct sun, remember) without any visible deformation -- and I printed a cell phone holder for the interior of my car which failed, softening and sagging under its own weight when it was nowhere close to that temperature outside (but the car was in the sun, so the interior likely approached 50 °C).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Based on that, I would expect PLA to remain fine as long as the temperature of the material stays below about 50 °C, which is its glass transition (approximately).  If your office gets warm enough for the keyboard to reach that temperature (even in direct sun), you'll have multiple other issues with computer overheating, plants dying, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28508" LastActivityDate="2021-06-23T18:01:44.427" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16612" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16654" CreationDate="2021-06-23T18:10:05.277" Score="4" ViewCount="5420" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The background and printer&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have an Ender 3 Pro that I have made all sorts of modifications to, the important ones being:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Replaced control board with BTT E3 RRF v1.1&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Flashed BTT's firmware that I compiled (only change I made was to allow my BLTouch to work)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The problem&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I keep getting the error message &amp;quot;SD Init Fail&amp;quot;.  Sometimes it's right away when I plug the SD card in, sometimes its 5 hours into a print.  The print will just suddenly stop and that error will pop up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Things I've tried&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had previously asked this question &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.reddit.com/r/BIGTREETECH/comments/nprm8i/sd_init_fail_on_btt_e3_rrf/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; and most of the suggestions were to &amp;quot;take it out and plug it back in again&amp;quot; or to get a new sd card.  I've tried it with new, name-brand (Sandisk) cards, and it doesn't work any better/worse than the card that came with the Ender.  I've seen various suggestions around the internet (like on Marlin's website) that adjusting the SPI speed can possibly help with &amp;quot;Volume Init&amp;quot; errors, which I assume to mean the same thing:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MgmIE.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MgmIE.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have tried the firmware at both normal speed and half and quarter, haven't tried eighth yet.  I didn't notice any different behavior for any of them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm at a loss!  Help!   I'm eventually probably going to jump to Octoprint via a Raspberry Pi, but given the printers location in an area without wifi, is there anything I can do in the meantime?  Any other firmware tips? Or suggestions?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do you think bad hardware could explain a print that goes for a few hours and then errors? I.e. is it reading the SD card during the course of the entire print (its never done?) and then the connection could fail after a few hours of being good?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15186" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2021-09-28T13:41:52.820" LastActivityDate="2021-09-28T13:46:49.833" Title="&quot;SD Init Fail&quot; on Ender 3 Pro with BTT E3 RRF v1.1" Tags="|firmware|sd|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16613" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16614" CreationDate="2021-06-23T21:29:34.073" Score="1" ViewCount="799" Body="&lt;p&gt;My 3D printer has got a clog, and i think it  is because the nozzle hole has just recently started to only screw in crooked. I’m not sure how this happened. I have tried with multiple nozzles, but they all screw in crooked. Is there a way to fix this? Or is my only option to get a new hotend.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My 3d printer is an Ender 3&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RVq2G.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23125" LastActivityDate="2021-06-23T21:57:49.360" Title="3D printer clog. Nozzle keeps getting screwed in crooked" Tags="|filament|hotend|nozzle|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16614" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16613" CreationDate="2021-06-23T21:57:49.360" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should be able to purchase only the heater block for your hot end. The nozzle should thread in by hand without undue force. Having to use a wrench at the outset is an indication of a problem which should have stopped the attempt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are many sources for the &amp;quot;heater block for Ender 3&amp;quot; when used in a search. One such result is an &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B07FTHJJQ8&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Amazon seller of three pieces for US$11.99&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VbrnW.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VbrnW.png&quot; alt=&quot;amazon heater block for ender 3&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Image via linked site.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastActivityDate="2021-06-23T21:57:49.360" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16615" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-06-24T00:59:08.830" Score="0" ViewCount="435" Body="&lt;p&gt;While taking a print today, the Ender 3 Pro suddenly stopped. I tried to restart printing, but the heater cartridge does not heat up. I tested the thermistor and it senses heat. Next, I checked the voltage of the heater cartridge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think there is a problem here. Because even if the nozzle is at 0 degrees, it constantly shows 24 V. What is the cause of this problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="29050" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2021-06-24T02:41:55.800" LastActivityDate="2021-06-24T02:41:55.800" Title="Ender 3 Pro stopped and not heat up" Tags="|creality-ender-3|nozzle|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16617" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11845" CreationDate="2021-06-24T09:13:56.713" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;eSun has had quality problems recently (mid 2020), when they switched from the screw together clear reels to the molded black reels. I got an unprintable roll of PLA that was wet and brittle, others reported similar issues. This is theorized to have coincided with them moving production to Vietnam.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Try to dry it, but if that doesn’t help, try a different brand. As far as your settings, I’ve printed a couple reels of the eSun PETG successfully at 235 °C, with 75 °C bed (though bed would have nothing to do with moisture). Agree 10 mm/s print speed is excruciatingly slow. 50 mm/s is typical for a Bowden setup.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27077" LastEditorUserId="27077" LastEditDate="2021-06-25T03:32:55.740" LastActivityDate="2021-06-25T03:32:55.740" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16618" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16337" CreationDate="2021-06-24T12:06:54.603" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can place a 2-4 mm thick MDF board on the bed and print directly on it, or you can place a 2 mm thick cork foil (IKEA office desk supplies) between magnetic plate and aluminium heater. The magnetic plate should not absorb too much heat and the cork will avoid conduction to the aluminium heater.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to avoid the magnetic plate, print on paper/cardboard on top of cork.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2338" LastActivityDate="2021-06-24T12:06:54.603" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16619" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16337" CreationDate="2021-06-24T13:30:35.467" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Very early (pre-RepRap) commercial 3D printers used &lt;em&gt;foam&lt;/em&gt; build plates. They were single-use as the foam would be damaged when removing the print, but it's probably as insulating as you can get.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://haveblue.org/?p=1913&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;This blog post&lt;/a&gt; details some experiments on using foam as a build plate and mentions &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.generalplastics.com/products/fr-7100&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;a particular type of foam&lt;/a&gt; that is apparently most suitable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastActivityDate="2021-06-24T13:30:35.467" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16620" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-06-24T14:49:50.447" Score="1" ViewCount="96" Body="&lt;p&gt;If it cannot be directly injected in a molten form, is there any way on how to do this?&#xA;When I was exploring about this, I mostly found thermoplastics.&#xA;Please note that I am not trying to contrast &amp;quot;sustainable&amp;quot; with FDM materials.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I saw this video, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cApVVuuqLFY&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Is Mycelium Fungus the Plastic of the Future?&lt;/a&gt;, I was curious to know if mycelium can be a good material candidate for 3D printing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fellows here suggest that there are available options such as Polylactide/Polylactic Acid/PLA which is derived from corn starch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Still it is better to have as many options for materials to be used as feed in 3d printing, as it is one of the most disruptive tech of this decade, thus if we don't repeat past mistakes, we can reap as much benefit from this without causing enormous ecological damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/cApVVuuqLFY?start=0&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28521" LastEditorUserId="28521" LastEditDate="2021-07-02T09:46:44.570" LastActivityDate="2021-07-02T09:46:44.570" Title="Can a sustainable material like mycelium be used in place of thermoplastics for fused deposition modeling?" Tags="|fdm|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="9" ClosedDate="2021-06-30T11:59:31.397" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16622" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16566" CreationDate="2021-06-24T18:50:44.187" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Usually, the neck of an all-metal heat break would be thinner (as it does not need to contain the PTFE tube, and making it overly thick would conduct heat unneccesarily). This may be observable when one loses track of what is where.&#xA;If one needs to see at a glance, I do not think there is a convention.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28554" LastActivityDate="2021-06-24T18:50:44.187" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16623" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-06-24T20:40:12.840" Score="0" ViewCount="91" Body="&lt;p&gt;I put a new glass bed on my Ender 3.  After playing with the baby-steps and bed temperature I thought I had it ready to go.  I started to print some rocket kits for the Cub Scouts and the job didn't stick.  I ended with a giant blob on my hot end.  I thought I cleaned it up, made some more adjustments and started again.  I watched it this time and noticed some times I had under extrusion, other times over extrusion, a sometimes perfect extrusion.  Since I just upgraded to a new metal drive for the extruder and that looked good I decided to look at my hot end.  Here is a pic of what I found.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/C1CC4.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/C1CC4.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think my Hot End is now toast.  Any suggestions on how to fix the hot end?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="29063" LastEditorUserId="29063" LastEditDate="2021-07-01T01:22:07.753" LastActivityDate="2021-07-02T11:46:14.157" Title="I think my extruder is hosed" Tags="|hotend|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16625" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-06-24T21:49:42.753" Score="1" ViewCount="98" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a modified Anet A8 that is supposed to print hydrogels&#xA;(paper : &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.frontiersin.org/articles/10.3389/fbioe.2019.00184&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Ultra-Low-Cost 3D Bioprinting, Kahl M et al. 2019&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For this to work, we do not need any temperature-related settings, however, I cannot seem to understand how to turn them off. If I try to set the extrusion temp to 25-40 °C, somehow the extrusion servo does not move at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Probably I need to enable cold extrusion, but when I tried to add the &lt;code&gt;M302 P1&lt;/code&gt; or &lt;code&gt;M302 S0&lt;/code&gt;, it does not work. The printer goes in the path determined by the slicer but the syringe does not extrude the gel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately, the paper did not have anything about the exact settings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once in the past I managed to run it, however, that was pre-COVID and the G-code files are probably lost due to me having to reinstall my laptop. If I remember correctly the solution then was to just have the hot end hang from the cross-section of the printer(temps were set at 190 °C?), however, I doubt that it is OSHA approved.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do you have any proper workarounds?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Current G-code :&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;;TIME:270&#xA;;Filament used: 1.61099m&#xA;;Layer height: 0.25&#xA;;MINX:102.269&#xA;;MINY:97.063&#xA;;MINZ:0.3&#xA;;MAXX:122.736&#xA;;MAXY:117.524&#xA;;MAXZ:4.8&#xA;;Generated with Cura_SteamEngine 4.8.0&#xA;M140 S30&#xA;M105&#xA;M190 S30&#xA;M104 S25&#xA;M105&#xA;M109 S25&#xA;M82 ;absolute extrusion mode&#xA;G28 ;Home&#xA;G1 Z15.0 F2000 ;Move the platform&#xA;M302 S0&#xA;G92 E0&#xA;G92 E0&#xA;G1 F1500 E-10&#xA;;LAYER_COUNT:19&#xA;;LAYER:0&#xA;M107&#xA;M204 S1000&#xA;G0 F6000 X105.03 Y100.305 Z0.3&#xA;;TYPE:SKIRT&#xA;G1 F1500 E0&#xA;G1 F600 X105.246 Y100.082 E0.697&#xA; &#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="29065" LastEditorUserId="29065" LastEditDate="2021-06-26T14:46:34.680" LastActivityDate="2021-06-26T14:46:34.680" Title="Bioprinter does not extrude Anet A8 Marlin" Tags="|marlin|g-code|extrusion|anet-a8|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16626" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-06-25T01:54:52.620" Score="3" ViewCount="219" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there a readily available silicone sock that goes &lt;em&gt;just&lt;/em&gt; over the nozzle, to supplement an existing sock around the heat block body? I've seen a product for the E3D V6 that goes around the entire assembly and only exposes the tip of the nozzle:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ty92Z.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;E3D V6 &amp;quot;SOCK PRO&amp;quot;&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;but it's for a specific block shape and doesn't facilitate easy nozzle change. What I'd like is a piece that fits over just the nozzle, with a friction fit to the existing block sock. The benefits I'm looking to get from this are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;reduced radiative heat transfer from the nozzle to the already-printed material&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;more consistent/stable temperature in the nozzle under air flow from cooling fans&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;eliminating sticking of PETG to the nozzle body&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2021-06-25T01:54:52.620" Title="Silicone socks for nozzle only?" Tags="|hotend|nozzle|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16627" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16620" CreationDate="2021-06-25T08:27:37.783" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The question is vague and likely highly speculative, but I would say that an biological material (coming from living organisms, not from a chemical plant) won't tolerate high temperatures without severe damage, and also will probably have an internal structure which won't work properly with the FDM (pushing molten material) concept.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maybe you could print via resin printing a matrix structure (FDM is not optimal for that) and then have biological material grow on it. This could work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/3D_bioprinting&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Wikipedia&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3D bioprinting for fabricating biological constructs typically&#xA;involves dispensing cells onto a &lt;strong&gt;biocompatible scaffold&lt;/strong&gt; using a&#xA;successive layer-by-layer approach to generate tissue-like&#xA;three-dimensional structures&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2338" LastActivityDate="2021-06-25T08:27:37.783" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16628" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-06-25T12:50:55.980" Score="1" ViewCount="1489" Body="&lt;p&gt;To start off my apologies if this question seems somewhat unclear. For context I am attaching the images of the model and the modified version in TinkerCAD. My issue is that I cannot fill in the gap on in the left arm of the gripper without these deformations happening.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/unq4s.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/unq4s.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pqPTW.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pqPTW.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IZRVJ.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IZRVJ.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I would like to do is to fill in the gap and then make a hole that fits the servo motor head. At the moment the printed model loosely fits on top of the servo motor and when screwed in place does not have the range of motion I need.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would be extremely grateful for any suggestions on how to fill in the gap without the problem occurring in TinkerCAD. I know I may not have tried the most sophisticated solution by just filling in the gap with another shape but I could not modify the model in any other way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="29078" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-06-25T14:04:01.193" LastActivityDate="2021-06-25T14:04:01.193" Title="How can I fill in the gap in this model without this tessellation/deformation occurring?" Tags="|3d-models|tinkercad|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16629" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16706" CreationDate="2021-06-25T16:53:16.323" Score="3" ViewCount="2690" Body="&lt;p&gt;A Bowden tube extruder (like the stock one on an Ender 3) is known to have issues with printing the most flexible TPU, and with filaments that (either due to composition or condition) don't take well to too much retraction -- though the latter can be ameliorated somewhat with slicer settings.  Direct drive extruders, on the other hand, by reducing the extruder to hot end distance to the practical minimum, greatly reduce the amount of retraction needed as well as the effect of filament compression and stretching.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One potential down side I'm aware of is that putting the extruder stepper and drive on the X carriage adds mass that the X drive motor has to both accelerate and decelerate; this could in theory have an effect on print quality, increasing ringing and overrun on the X axis (though this isn't generally a problem with the steppers used on the Ender 3 and similar printers).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What other reasons might there be to prefer a Bowden tube over direct drive?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28508" LastActivityDate="2021-07-11T03:55:04.433" Title="What reasons are there not to convert Ender 3 to direct drive extrusion?" Tags="|creality-ender-3|bowden|direct-drive|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16630" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11319" CreationDate="2021-06-25T21:48:21.077" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hot end design is indeed applied science as @&lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/8884/trish&quot;&gt;Trish&lt;/a&gt; said. Its design has a lot of interest and is intriguing, but there are not much into it in terms of academic research. There is a lot of knowledge in RepRap forums and other places where people actually run a lot of trial and error tests.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What might be of interest is the fluid dynamics on the molten plastic in order to calculate a sound model with higher resolution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, academic research on 3D printing moves to Bio printing for example. The hot-end thing is simple mechanics/thermodynamics. Such research is usually done in the private sector IMHO.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4315" LastActivityDate="2021-06-25T21:48:21.077" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16631" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16378" CreationDate="2021-06-25T22:49:21.747" Score="0" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What fan speed should I use with PLA&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The answer is that it &lt;a href=&quot;/a/1508/&quot;&gt;depends&lt;/a&gt; on the hotend temperature the area of the printed layer and the effectivity of the fan. It is best to print some test prints to find the optimum for your printer. E.g. prints with overhangs/slanted object are good tests for this. Normally a Benchy is not a calibration object, but the bow of the Benchy is an example; incorrect temperature (too hot) and too few cooling will result in the bow sagging out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do I need to manually set the fan speed in ‘Control’?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No, the slicer can schedule the cooling speed percentage for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does this mean heating the bed is optional?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, PLA doesn't shrink much, so it doesn't necessarily need to be heated up to the glass transition temperature (temperature at which the filament becomes soft) of the plastic. It does require to take extra measures to get it to stick to the bed surface. You also don't want the bed temperature to be too high, this will manifest in poor first few layers quality, similar to elephant feet phenomenon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2024-03-12T22:58:29.780" LastActivityDate="2024-03-12T22:58:29.780" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16632" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16559" CreationDate="2021-06-26T04:14:56.347" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think I found the problem. I think there was some crosstalk between the BLTouch wires and the other wires it was tied together leading to the hotend. When I moved the BLTouch wires away from the others the problem went away.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I will be added a sheild to the cable in the future like in this &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jkcrRCxPlZM&amp;amp;ab_channel=509Drone&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;youtube video&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28975" LastActivityDate="2021-06-26T04:14:56.347" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16633" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16559" CreationDate="2021-06-26T11:44:18.223" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The OP already found the problem and &lt;a href=&quot;/a/16632/&quot;&gt;answered&lt;/a&gt; the question hinting to shielding of the cable. If this is the actual problem, of fiddling with the cables might have caused this, an alternative solution is presented as I've experienced similar behavior.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If one side of the bed is higher than the rest, even when rotating the glass bed, you might experience that the nozzle carriage is tilting on that side. E.g. when using a Bowden extruder assembly, a too short Bowden tube (or cables in a non-Bowden setup) the tube (or cables) pull at the carriage causing it to lift at the furthest points from the extruder; this tilting can cause the nozzle to go up a few tenths of a millimeter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2021-06-26T11:44:18.223" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16635" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-06-26T14:08:50.607" Score="3" ViewCount="2021" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a resin 3D printer, so I can print multiple models of a similar size without the overall build time increasing very much. So long as I stay within a set height range.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Presuming that my build plate is level and that my FEP is OK, does it matter where I place the models on my build plate?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, should I place the largest items in the center, and smaller ones around the edge, or vice-versa?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does placing particular models in particular places stress the FEP, induce suction or lead to increased failure risk for other reasons?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, is the below terrible placement, or just meh?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/V8DVo.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/V8DVo.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="29097" LastActivityDate="2022-03-23T22:03:35.293" Title="Does it matter where I place my models on my Resin printer build plate?" Tags="|3d-models|build-plate|hardware|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16636" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14280" CreationDate="2021-06-26T14:15:38.160" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I actually found it easier to export my model as a single STL file, and then to open up 3D builder. It has a tool that let's you create a flat plane, and then slice a model into pieces using it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So long as you have a large enough surface area to glue, it shouldn't be a problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried using booleans and the peg\hole method in Blender, but it simply wasn't stable enough with complex models.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Where I have used pegs and hole I used round pegs or the simple reason that they are easier to sand down to the right size if they deform and are too tight a fit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="29097" LastActivityDate="2021-06-26T14:15:38.160" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16637" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16635" CreationDate="2021-06-26T20:41:48.857" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Having only recently begun to print with a resin printer, I've wondered the same. The tension on the FEP is reasonably even across the entire printable surface, and the FEP is slightly larger than the LCD, keeping &amp;quot;edge&amp;quot; prints truly away from the edge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The deflection of the FEP in the vat may be a millimeter or two greater in the center, but the lift distance is certainly going to be higher than that. My printer's settings is for 8 mm lift between layers, recently changed to 7.5 mm with no complications, other than a warning from Lychee Slicer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've found that it's nearly impossible to examine the print for the first few centimeters, so I place the items as close to the front as possible/practical.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This would mean that there's a gradient involved in the deflection of the FEP from the edge to the center, which probably doesn't complicate things and may be a benefit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regarding your current layout on the build plate, consider more the removal aspect. The smaller items inside the larger ones are going to be more difficult to remove than the outer smaller items, but not so much more difficult as to complicate matters. The reach of the tool you use to pry under the base would determine how you place the models.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've added a magnetic removable build plate, but smaller models tend to pop free the supports, making a tool a requirement despite marketing claims. I use the tool size to provide placement reference (close to the front is easy) when building out a plate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastActivityDate="2021-06-26T20:41:48.857" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16638" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-06-26T21:21:15.430" Score="1" ViewCount="618" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am completely new to 3D printing and am borrowing someone else's Ender printer for a school project. I have never used CAD before either.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I used Onshape to create my design and then exported it as a &lt;code&gt;.stl&lt;/code&gt; file.  When I load the &lt;code&gt;.stl&lt;/code&gt; file into the Creality slicer software, it loads in the design too large and partially below the platform.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could anyone explain to me how to center my design so that it sits on top of the platform rather than below it, i.e. move the design up and down on the Z-axis?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XRRiW.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Screenshot of the 3D model in Cura software&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XRRiW.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Screenshot of the 3D model in Cura software&quot; title=&quot;Screenshot of the 3D model in Cura software&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="29100" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2021-06-27T07:23:03.380" LastActivityDate="2021-06-28T06:59:11.800" Title="How to move my 3D print file on the Z-axis in Creality slicer software?" Tags="|creality-ender-3|troubleshooting|z-axis|software|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16639" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-06-27T06:48:19.503" Score="1" ViewCount="453" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm going to do my first FEP change on my Elegoo Saturn. The manufacturer has a video on changing it that shows them putting the FEP into the gasket frame and then simply screwing the screws right through it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;People on Youtube have videos showing them using a sharp object to piece the film before putting the screws in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which is least likely to cause a failure?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="29097" LastActivityDate="2021-07-05T07:07:56.313" Title="When changing my FEP should I pierce it first or just screw the screws through it?" Tags="|resin|desktop-printer|sla|maintenance|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16640" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-06-27T14:36:57.260" Score="2" ViewCount="121" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am trying to compensate for bed leveling by measuring a mesh with my Z probe, a BLTouch, and I am unable to do so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am using RepRap firmware version 3 and have a CoreXY printer.  The first thing I do is home all axes, which works fine, and then choose &lt;code&gt;G29&lt;/code&gt; (run mesh compensation). The mesh compensation then begins to lower the bed and it eventually hits the Z limit switch and keeps going and the steppers begin grinding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't know how the mesh compensation works but this is my &lt;code&gt;config.g&lt;/code&gt; file.  Does anyone know what may be the issue?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;    ; Configuration file for Duet 3 (firmware version 3)&#xA;    ; executed by the firmware on start-up&#xA;    ;&#xA;    ; generated by RepRapFirmware Configuration Tool v3.2.3 on Wed Jun 23 2021 23:47:21 GMT-0400 (Eastern Daylight Time)&#xA;    &#xA;    ; General preferences&#xA;    G90                                             ; send absolute coordinates...&#xA;    M83                                             ; ...but relative extruder moves&#xA;    M550 P&amp;quot;Duet 3&amp;quot;                                  ; set printer name&#xA;    M669 K1                                         ; select CoreXY mode&#xA;    &#xA;    ; Drives&#xA;    M569 P0.0 S1                                    ; physical drive 0.0 goes forwards&#xA;    M569 P0.1 S1                                    ; physical drive 0.1 goes forwards&#xA;    M569 P0.2 S1                                    ; physical drive 0.2 goes forwards&#xA;    M569 P1.1 S1                                    ; physical drive 1.1 goes forwards&#xA;    M569 P1.2 S1                                    ; physical drive 1.2 goes forwards&#xA;    M584 X0.0 Y0.1 Z0.2:0.3:0.4:0.5 E1.1:1.2                    ; set drive mapping&#xA;    M350 X16 Y16 Z16 E16:16 I1                      ; configure microstepping with interpolation&#xA;    M92 X40.00 Y40.00 Z400.00 E420.00:420.00        ; set steps per mm&#xA;    M566 X900.00 Y900.00 Z60.00 E120.00:120.00      ; set maximum instantaneous speed changes (mm/min)&#xA;    M203 X6000.00 Y6000.00 Z120.00 E1200.00:1200.00 ; set maximum speeds (mm/min)&#xA;    M201 X500.00 Y500.00 Z10.00 E250.00:250.00      ; set accelerations (mm/s^2)&#xA;    M906 X1500 Y1500 Z1500 E800:800 I30             ; set motor currents (mA) and motor idle factor in per cent&#xA;    M84 S30                                         ; Set idle timeout&#xA;    &#xA;    ; Axis Limits&#xA;    M208 X0 Y0 Z0 S1                                ; set axis minima&#xA;    M208 X635 Y540 Z500 S0                          ; set axis maxima&#xA;    &#xA;    ; Endstops&#xA;    M574 X1 S1 P&amp;quot;!io4.in&amp;quot;                           ; configure active-low endstop for low end on X via pin !io1.in&#xA;    M574 Y1 S1 P&amp;quot;!io5.in&amp;quot;                           ; configure active-low endstop for low end on Y via pin !io5.in&#xA;    M574 Z2 S1 P&amp;quot;!io3.in&amp;quot;                           ; configure active-low endstop for low end on Z via pin !io3.in&#xA;    &#xA;    ; Z-Probe&#xA;    M950 S0 C&amp;quot;io7.out&amp;quot;                              ; create servo pin 0 for BLTouch&#xA;    M558 P9 C&amp;quot;^io7.in&amp;quot; H7 F120 T6000                ; set Z probe type to bltouch and the dive height + speeds&#xA;    M558 H30                                        ;*** Remove this line after delta calibration has been done and new delta parameters have been saved&#xA;    G31 P500 X0 Y0 Z2.5                             ; set Z probe trigger value, offset and trigger height&#xA;    M557 X15:215 Y15:195 S20                        ; define mesh grid&#xA;    &#xA;    ; Heaters&#xA;    M308 S0 P&amp;quot;temp1&amp;quot; Y&amp;quot;thermistor&amp;quot; T100000 B4138    ; configure sensor 0 as thermistor on pin temp1&#xA;    M950 H0 C&amp;quot;out1&amp;quot; T0                              ; create nozzle heater output on out1 and map it to sensor 0&#xA;    M307 H0 B0 S1.00                                ; disable bang-bang mode for heater  and set PWM limit&#xA;    M143 H0 S280                                    ; set temperature limit for heater 0 to 280C&#xA;    M308 S1 P&amp;quot;temp2&amp;quot; Y&amp;quot;thermistor&amp;quot; T100000 B4138    ; configure sensor 1 as thermistor on pin temp2&#xA;    M950 H1 C&amp;quot;out2&amp;quot; T1                              ; create nozzle heater output on out2 and map it to sensor 1&#xA;    M307 H1 B0 S1.00                                ; disable bang-bang mode for heater  and set PWM limit&#xA;    M143 H1 S280                                    ; set temperature limit for heater 1 to 280C&#xA;    &#xA;    ; Fans&#xA;    M950 F0 C&amp;quot;out7&amp;quot; Q500                            ; create fan 0 on pin out7 and set its frequency&#xA;    M106 P0 S1 H-1                                  ; set fan 0 value. Thermostatic control is turned off&#xA;    M950 F1 C&amp;quot;out8&amp;quot; Q500                            ; create fan 1 on pin out8 and set its frequency&#xA;    M106 P1 S1 H-1                                  ; set fan 1 value. Thermostatic control is turned off&#xA;    &#xA;    ; Tools&#xA;    M563 P0 D0 H1 F0                                ; define tool 0&#xA;    G10 P0 X0 Y0 Z0                                 ; set tool 0 axis offsets&#xA;    G10 P0 R0 S0                                    ; set initial tool 0 active and standby temperatures to 0C&#xA;    &#xA;    ; Custom settings are not defined&#xA;    &#xA;    ; Miscellaneous&#xA;    M575 P1 S1 B57600                               ; enable support for PanelDue&#xA;&lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;```&lt;/span&gt;&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27750" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-06-27T17:48:24.170" LastActivityDate="2021-06-27T17:48:24.170" Title="CoreXY mesh probing issue" Tags="|bed-leveling|bltouch|corexy|reprap-firmware|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16641" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2021-06-27T22:11:35.100" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/wiki/RepRap_Firmware&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;RepRap firmware&lt;/a&gt; is a pre-compiled firmware that is flashed onto a 32-bit microprocessor printer board and configured by G-code based files on the SD-card which doesn't require users to compile the software nor install any development tools.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-06-27T22:11:35.100" LastActivityDate="2021-06-27T22:11:35.100" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16642" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2021-06-27T22:11:35.100" Score="0" Body="For questions about the RepRap firmware." OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-06-27T22:11:35.100" LastActivityDate="2021-06-27T22:11:35.100" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16643" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-06-27T23:08:41.503" Score="4" ViewCount="203" Body="&lt;p&gt;We've been doing some work automatically generating STL files using Python.  We've made a ring of cubes like so:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rdC1D.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Python generated ring of cubes&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rdC1D.png&quot; alt=&quot;Python generated ring of cubes&quot; title=&quot;Python generated ring of cubes&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Importing it into Cura still makes it look valid, with a hole in the center:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Pw2Pd.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Ring of cubes in Cura&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Pw2Pd.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Ring of cubes in Cura&quot; title=&quot;Ring of cubes in Cura&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, post slicing it comes up with saying it will take 14 hours to print!  A ludicrous time.  Looking at the preview, it seems to be adding supports to the entire inside of the structure:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6Yo0B.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Slicing preview&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6Yo0B.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Slicing preview&quot; title=&quot;Slicing preview&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And also a top / bottom layer:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VeEjJ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Slicing preview - top&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VeEjJ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Slicing preview - top&quot; title=&quot;Slicing preview - top&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iIAac.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Slicing preview - bottom&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iIAac.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Slicing preview - bottom&quot; title=&quot;Slicing preview - bottom&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why is this?  You can tell it's adding supports to the center and is not filled in due to the differing structure midway through the block:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/10RX0.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Close up of support structures midway&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/10RX0.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Close up of support structures midway&quot; title=&quot;Close up of support structures midway&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="29115" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2021-06-30T15:54:38.257" LastActivityDate="2022-06-22T10:39:12.963" Title="Why is this central area of the STL being filled in?" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|stl|python|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16645" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13795" CreationDate="2021-06-28T09:05:50.527" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Judging from the print quality of support material (very &amp;quot;fat&amp;quot;) and of top surfaces (which look with ripples and a lot of material), you have at least 3% overxtrusion, which will result also in stronger connection between support and print, and more difficult removal, lower quality parts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would reduce extrusion by 3%, to start, and see if it goes better. In your case you can tolerate underextrusion, since the part is likely not stressed significantly, so in doubt reduce it even more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also print &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3695183&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this test part&lt;/a&gt; to check optimal extrusion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, remember that extrusion is (almost always) dependent on speed: if you get perfect extrusion at 60 mm/s, infill at 80 mm/s will be slightly underextruded and outer perimeters (30 mm/s) will be overextruded. In general, set everything to the same speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2338" LastEditorUserId="2338" LastEditDate="2021-06-28T12:21:09.230" LastActivityDate="2021-06-28T12:21:09.230" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16646" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10965" CreationDate="2021-06-28T12:40:38.200" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A related answer was provided in &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/12099/is-e-axis-steps-mm-resolution-limiting-factor-in-print-quality/14152#14152&quot;&gt;Is E-axis steps/mm resolution limiting factor in print quality?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The gear ratio has two main constraints:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;it should allow you to reach the printing speed you want, so it cannot reduce too much otherwise the motor cannot spin that fast and it cannot output enough torque,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;it should allow the stepper motor to control extrusion accurately, that means outputting several microsteps for each millimeter of print when printing at the thinnest layer height with the thinnest nozzle.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The steps to define a gear ratio are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;pick the number of microsteps per millimeter, or in other words how long would be a line equivalent to one single microstep, for a given layer thickness and line width (which depends on the nozzle). For example, 0.2 mm (the extruder will not be able to extrude less than what you need for a line 0.1 mm long, which is reasonable).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;based on the radius of the hobbed bolt or hobbed gear (the one gripping on the filament) and therefore the amount of filament pushed with one rotation, the number of steps per revolution of the motor, the desired length per microstep, the filament diameter, calculate the reduction ratio&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;based on that reduction ratio and on the motor you have, with its torque curve based on supply voltage, check at which speed it can output its maximum torque.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;check which maximum extrusion speed you can achieve with that motor and that reduction ratio.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;if the maximum speed is too low, either reduce the gear ratio and compromise on the accuracy for small moves, or look for a motor which can rotate faster&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;if the maximum printing speed is way higher than realistically needed, increase the gear reduction to get more pushing power. Ideally, you want the motor to spin almost as fast as possible at the fastest printing speed (which, realistically, is usually in the 30-60 mm^3/s assuming a Mosquito magnum or Dragon HF hotend).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, I took some sample data and I did the calculations for various extruders and reduction factors. See image with results. The maximum RPM was VERY conservative, in general it can be also 500 rpm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3mQeA.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3mQeA.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can see that the Orbiter (last line) was designed with about 80-90 mm^3/s, which is a bit more than realistically possible, so that it can achieve better pushing force.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See also this graph from &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/Annex-Engineering/Annex-Engineering.github.io/blob/master/extruder_force.md&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; which compares different extruders. You can see that between the Sherpa mini 8t and 10t (10 has a lower reduction ratio, so it needs to rotate slower for the same printing speed) the former has more torque. Since the maximum desired extrusion rate is still achievable, it made sense to increase the reduction ratio with a 8t motor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1I4Yl.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1I4Yl.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2338" LastEditorUserId="2338" LastEditDate="2021-06-29T15:56:35.267" LastActivityDate="2021-06-29T15:56:35.267" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16647" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13269" CreationDate="2021-06-28T12:47:11.770" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The solution seems to be simply triggering the switch earlier, and making sure that it is triggered. The thin arm can end up bent over the actual button of the switch, meaning that the arm can be touching the switch without actually &amp;quot;pressing&amp;quot; the switch. For some, bending the arm seems to have worked, but for me I had to wedge a small piece of plastic between the arm and the switch button, meaning that it is a lot more reliable when you press the switch. The piece isn't stuck in there in any way, simply held by friction. This isn't the best solution as you have to keep an eye on that piece with every homing, but until a better answer is available, I recommend this solution as it was more reliable than bending the arm out or into a different shape.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20528" LastActivityDate="2021-06-28T12:47:11.770" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16648" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-06-28T19:52:08.047" Score="1" ViewCount="119" Body="&lt;p&gt;With my Anet ET4, I also received a plastic sticker. I assume this should be stuck onto glass, not to a metal bed. If I understand this right, when sticking this to glass, I will damage the glass and I cannot use the glass as a bed in the future if I change my mind and decide to experiment with glass again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Isn't better to buy another glass and stick the plastic there? Or is better to buy some completely different sticker? I have many problems with adhesion on Anet ET4, so looking for options. Any ideas?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="29131" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-06-28T21:02:59.523" LastActivityDate="2021-06-29T13:58:35.403" Title="Where the plastic sticker should be installed?" Tags="|glass-bed|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16649" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-06-28T19:56:36.530" Score="2" ViewCount="2472" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have my print settings dialed into a real good spot, but there's one obstacle that's preventing them from coming out flawless; somehow, my print has &amp;quot;fuzz&amp;quot; everywhere. Not traditional stringing like you get from filament oozing while travelling from section to section, nor do I mean over-extrusion that causes the outer walls to sag or bubble out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The final shape/texture of my models are perfect - there's just wispy little hairs sticking out all over the model. They are not even really visible unless you hold it up to the light, or against a dark background.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's an image of the wing from a dragon I printed. Notice the top edge of the part and how it looks like it's made of cotton or something? That's how it looks everywhere.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tkQPc.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Close up of dragon wing showing cotton effect&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tkQPc.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Close up of dragon wing showing cotton effect&quot; title=&quot;Close up of dragon wing showing cotton effect&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="29132" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2021-06-28T21:04:52.670" LastActivityDate="2021-06-29T13:10:16.793" Title="Tiny &quot;fuzzy&quot; wispy strings on the entire surface of the model?" Tags="|creality-ender-3|stringing|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16650" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-06-28T21:02:56.857" Score="4" ViewCount="2178" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm throwing this out that as a long shot, as I'm not sure if anyone can help me, but maybe there's someone out there who had a similar issue and might have successfully dealt with this before.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm dealing with this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ECgDS.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cuW0z.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xXEIw.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QfhMd.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ladnl.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kfNSm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Granted, if I take a picture of the same benchy at a &amp;quot;flattering&amp;quot; angle it looks fine but the prints in real life don't look great.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kOfQv.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iNxkH.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Setup and attempts to fix the problem:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;CR-10S.. -ish, modded to a point where I don't think calling it a&#xA;CR-10S is right.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;SKR 1.3 board with TMC2208 drivers in UART mode, StealthChop enabled.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tried changing the current from 600 to 900 for all motors. The only difference was motors running cool/hot and slightly different motor noises, print quality remained exactly the same.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Now running Klipper but flashed back to Marlin for testing at one point. Print quality is improved with Klipper, but the same core issue persists on both firmwares, leading me to believe this is probably hardware (mechanically) related. Tried running Klipper with input shaping and pressure advance both off and on, no difference in terms of the issue I'm having.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sliced with Simplify3D but also tried with PrusaSlicer using the MK3S quality profile with just a few changes like startup G-code and bed size, fairly similar results with both, mainly this issue is present on both slicers&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;BLTouch, though the bed is manually leveled to the best of my abilities anyway.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The first layer is beautiful and smooth.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;E-steps calibrated and they remain consistent throughout multiple repeated tests both on Klipper and Marlin.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;X and Y belt tensioners (metal), played around with barely enough tension to keep the belt from slipping up to a highish note when plucking them - literally no difference in print quality.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Replaced most of the V-slot rollers, yet I didn't see any signs of wear/damage on the old ones&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;All rollers are engaging with the extrusions but aren't too tight, i.e. they can be manually rotated in place with a bit of force but won't rotate freely in place.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Squared up the frame to the best of my abilities&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Leadscrews are aligned dead straight to the motors in the X- and Y-axis.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tried 3 different couplers - rigid (stock), flexible (the aluminum &amp;quot;spiral&amp;quot; ones), and the ones with the hard rubber in the middle. The ones with the rubber made a slight improvement but didn't fix the issue. Pictures above were taken with those couplers installed.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Anti-backlash T nuts, tried loosening/tightening them - no difference. Leadscrews don't bind when the T-nuts are tightened though.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I had a closed-loop belt syncing the leadscrews together. I took them off and maybe there was a slight improvement, but the issue is still there. Photos were taken with the belt off.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm currently using a DD setup with a pancake motor, BMG extruder (Trianglelabs V2), V6 all-metal (Trianglelabs). Tried switching back to Bowden - fairly similar results in terms of the problem I'm having, the quality itself is a bit different compared to DD, DD being more. &amp;quot;tight&amp;quot; I guess would be the word in terms of quality, but the layer stacking is still similar. Tried using a metal &amp;quot;stock&amp;quot; style extruder on Bowden - the overall quality was just trash compared to DD and the issue still remained. Tried using a PTFE lined hotend instead of all metal on the DD setup - surprisingly the print quality overall was worse with it compared to the metal throat, so that leads me to believe the Trianglelabs throat is of decent quality and isn't the source of my problems like with cheap metal throats.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Designed my own DD mount in hopes that not having the stepper motor hanging far away from the extrusion would perhaps result in less hotend &amp;quot;wobble&amp;quot; during faster moves. Didn't help at all, although I do like it and it's more rigid compared to another popular one I was using before.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9aGJZ.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CZI0F.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IrnLx.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NcNVL.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tried multiple slicer settings, these are the ones I'm using now for reference&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;500 mm/s acceleration and ~40 mm/s base print speed (conservative speeds for testing)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 mm retraction (tried 0.8 mm that results in slight stringing up to 1.5 mm that results in under extrusion)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;40 mm/s retraction (tried 20 mm/s to 90 mm/s - no difference)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;No Z-hop&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wipe 2 mm (tried on and off - no difference)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Extrusion multiplier at 0.98, tried from 0.9 to 1.1. There was a slight reduction in the layer stacking issue with the multiplier at ~0.93-0.95, but it results in under extrusion in the top layers. Tried to combat that by having 6 top layers but there still were gaps. Everything over 1.05 results in over extrusion to a point where the top surfaces are just scared.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Coasting off with Klipper due to using pressure advance, though with Marlin and coasting enabled the same issue persists.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Printing PLA at 205 °C. Tried 190-215 °C - no difference.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tried printing with the heated bed off and a layer of hairspray for adhesion and as normal at 60 °C. The quality is somewhat better without the heated bed for the first few layers as expected, but overall same issue persists.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm a bit lost on what to try next, I think I've tried every combination I could think of in terms of settings, tightness, etc. My only thought is maybe it's in some way related to the leadscrews as they are the only thing I haven't changed. Although I did flip them over AND swap sides yet that made no appreciable difference which makes me second guess myself if my leadscrew theory is correct.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maybe I'm missing something obvious.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'll be delivering a crap ton of benchies to an orphanage or something, hopefully, the kids will have some fun with the stacks and stacks of benchies I've been printing for the past week.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's an &lt;a href=&quot;https://imgur.com/a/4drEW90&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;XYZ cube&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BzYOO.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;XYZ cube&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BzYOO.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;XYZ cube&quot; title=&quot;XYZ cube&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not seeing any diagonal lines in any lighting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="29133" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2023-05-15T07:58:36.867" LastActivityDate="2023-05-15T07:58:36.867" Title="Inconsistent layer stacking" Tags="|print-quality|extrusion|creality-cr-10|mechanics|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16651" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16649" CreationDate="2021-06-28T22:36:09.373" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;That is the print stringing still. Even thought that you have your printer dialed in, the plastic that is still in the nozzle is still grabbing onto your print and pulling out the nozzle just a tad. This, as far as I know, is unavoidable. The best solution that I could think of fixing this (as far as having your print come perfect off of the bed) would if a company designed the tips, printer, and filament to perfectly match each other, but until that happens, you are gonna be stuck with a lighter balling up the strings and picking them off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27902" LastActivityDate="2021-06-28T22:36:09.373" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16652" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16649" CreationDate="2021-06-29T13:10:16.793" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;These stringers are common with PETG.&#xA;You can reduce them by:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Increasing retraction reduces the stringers, but too much retraction can cause the filament to jam and stop extruding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Lowering the extruder temperature will reduce the stringers, but also reduce adhesion between layers.  Stringers usually aren't an issue on the 1st layer, so you can keep the necessary extrusion temperature for the 1st layer to keep adhesion to the bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your stringers are very short thus difficult to reduce.  One method to get rid of stringers is to expose the print very quickly with the flame of a blow torch.  Important is you don't want to melt the strings.  You want them to burn, so that they are ash and easily removed.  Melting the stringers will distort your print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15075" LastActivityDate="2021-06-29T13:10:16.793" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16653" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16648" CreationDate="2021-06-29T13:49:25.133" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Besides a heat gun, heating the bed some can also help removing the tape-like print surface/adhesion layer.  Using a puddy knife carefully can help prying up the adhesion layer.  The only danger to the glass is mechanically breaking it.  Avoid mashing a sharp point perpendicular to the surface of the glass or pounding the surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most of the work removing the surface is cleaning off the adhesive left by the adhesion layer on the glass.  A cleaner rated as a degreaser or IPA (at least 90% IPA) helps remove the adhesive.  Many of the hand sanitizers with at least 70% alcohol will work if the remainder is hydrocarbons with little water.  You can remove the hydrocarbons left with soap and water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is an example of a print surface/adhesion layer (black) on a glass bed (white).  The object being printed is blue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mC4ea.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mC4ea.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15075" LastEditorUserId="15075" LastEditDate="2021-06-29T13:58:35.403" LastActivityDate="2021-06-29T13:58:35.403" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16654" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16612" CreationDate="2021-06-29T15:00:30.437" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is happening with multiple SD cards that work in other ports (your computer, for instance): that tells me the problem must be in the mainboard hardware or firmware.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You're using the stock firmware for that board, with the BLTouch enabled but otherwise original -- assuming you only had to change a compiler directive to enable BLTouch, that pretty strongly points to hardware.  And the hardware that's likely at fault here is the SD port on the mainboard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's hard to verify, hard to repair (aside from simply replacing the board with another of the hardware revision), but not impossible.  With the right tools, you could connect a second SD card port parallel to the existing one (hook jumpers from an oscilloscope?), run the board from the external SD card, and reproduce the error by momentarily disconnecting one of the jumpers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Repairing the problem might only require reflowing solder connections on the board for the SD port wires, or it might require replacing the port itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One thing to check before you do all of that, however: clean the contacts in the port.  With power off (of course!) slip a utility knife blade or similar with a sheet of printer paper wrapped over it into the port, work it in and out a couple times to scrub the paper over the spring contacts, then pull it out and carefully vacuum the port.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If that fixes it, good to go!  If not, all it's cost you is a few minutes before trying the more drastic stuff.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do you think bad hardware could explain a print that goes for a few hours and then errors? I.e. is it reading the SD card during the course of the entire print (its never done?) and then the connection could fail after a few hours of being good?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The movement of the machine frame while printing infill or fine detail may jostle the SD card or port when the firmware is trying to read the next line (or batch of lines) of G-code from it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do determine that the SD socket is at fault due to connection problems, it may be worth considering installing an off-frame mainboard housing (I've seen these in printable form for Ender 3 class machines, though if this is your only printer you might have to buy one, since they'll be 10-16 hour prints) to insulate the mainboard from movement induced by bed and hot end/extruder motion. Doing that would be easier than repairing or replacing the SD socket.  This has the downside that it requires additional space near the machine, but the upside is that it may solve your &amp;quot;SD Init Fail&amp;quot; problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28508" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2021-09-28T13:46:49.833" LastActivityDate="2021-09-28T13:46:49.833" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16655" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-06-30T17:13:58.903" Score="2" ViewCount="148" Body="&lt;p&gt;Whenever I print, the walls separate when genial pressure is applied, this only happens to one side of the print, the side that faces the rear of the printer. I'm using 5 walls, so it’s only truly noticeable on the outer most walls, I’m sure it continues if I peel away more layers (the walls are printed first, then the infill). The print still looks “okay” so I only found out this issue after post-processing a prior print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I’ve re-leveled the build plate and confirmed it with a bed visualizer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have attempted to shim that side of the print bed up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I installed new belt tensioners to rule out belt tension.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I’m not sure what else to do, I rather not increase my flow or E-steps as the print dimensions are already pretty good and I don’t want to risk over extruding to solve my issue despite how it would fix the problem. I would be sacrificing accuracy for print coherency then.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I print on an Ender 5 plus&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Slicer is Cura&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Print speed is 60 mm/s&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Printing at 220 °C for the hotend&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Filament is Makerbot PLA&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="29030" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-06-30T21:30:56.740" LastActivityDate="2021-06-30T21:30:56.740" Title="Walls separating only on one side of print bed" Tags="|troubleshooting|creality-ender-5|delamination|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16656" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16623" CreationDate="2021-07-01T11:21:34.927" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is filament leakage.  It's generally due to the nozzle and heat break not being correctly tightened against each other (if you've ever disassembled or upgraded the hotend you'd have needed to do this).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Presuming that you can heat the hotend and (carefully -- extrusion temperature is close to that of a medium-hot oven!), peel off most of the mess, and get it disassembled, you should then be able to finish cleaning up and correctly reassemble.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You need to install the heat break into the heat block, heat to 20 °C or so above your highest printing temperature, then tighten the nozzle against the heat break.  If the nozzle bottoms against the heat block before coming tight, you'll need to back it out, screw the heat break in another turn or two, and tighten the nozzle again.  Let everything cool, then reheat and retighten the nozzle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;N.B. Do NOT use teflon tape, pipe dope, or anything else on the threads of either nozzle or heat break: these threads need to have metal to metal contact for heat transfer, and the seal is between the nozzle face and heat break face, not the threads in any case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After everything is cooled again, you can finish reassembling the heat sink (if you had it off during the nozzle installation), silicone sock (which should replace the kapton taped insulation wadding your photo shows), shroud and fan -- and you should then find you've stopped the melted filament leaking around the heat break threads as in your photo.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And no parts needed!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28508" LastEditorUserId="28508" LastEditDate="2021-07-02T11:46:14.157" LastActivityDate="2021-07-02T11:46:14.157" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16657" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16414" CreationDate="2021-07-02T08:02:59.970" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This printer uses a TFT touch screen to interface with the printer firmware (see e.g. &lt;a href=&quot;/q/11431/&quot;&gt;this question&lt;/a&gt;). The reason that the updated temperature is not seen by the precompiled firmware of the display. If you look at this specific (custom, not standard) &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/InsanityAutomation/Marlin/tree/bugfix-2.0.x/Marlin/src/lcd&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Marlin fork&lt;/a&gt; you see that the printer firmware and the display firmware are interlinked, this is probably not the case with the default Creality display firmware, it may have hard limits encoded for the temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looking into the fork mentioned in this answer, you see that the constant &lt;code&gt;HEATER_0_MAXTEMP&lt;/code&gt; is used in the display source files, so, running this firmware might lift the constrains encountered with custom Marlin and default Creality display software to modify the hotend temperature to the new set maximum.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Please note, running custom firmware on controller board and display should be done at your own risk.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-07-02T13:04:25.920" LastActivityDate="2021-07-02T13:04:25.920" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16658" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16474" CreationDate="2021-07-02T12:13:07.037" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;This problem (of spontaneous restarting during printing) appears to be solved.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h4 id=&quot;the-cause-6j2s&quot;&gt;The Cause&lt;/h4&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The apparent cause was a combination of push-on spade connectors on the power switch that were looser than ideal, likely specified that way in order to facilitate mass production (the tighter such a connector is, the more difficult it is to assemble, leading to slower work and an increase in damaged parts that then require reworking an assembly), and moving the power supply off its direct mount to the machine frame (in order to increase clearance between the PSU and the heat bed after installation of a magnetic build sheet).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The brackets I used to remount the power supply are free to slide in the 4040 extrusion of the frame base, and have no mechanical connection to the PSU housing or even its plastic extension (which houses the wire connections, power switch, and power cord connector).  This allows the PSU to move much more under frame accelerations (Newtonian reaction to movements of the bed and hot end) than with the original mount -- and this movement sometimes pulls against the wires inside the plastic wiring cover.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Combine that with spade connectors that are loose enough to move when the wire is tugged pretty gently, and you have a formula for momentary disconnects.  Such a disconnect will reset the main board (like a power flicker can do to a computer with no UPS), resulting in the freeze (actually mainboard startup sequence before it begins to update the display), then a startup.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3 id=&quot;the-complication-qku0&quot;&gt;The Complication&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can't prove it, but I hypothesize that the transition from restarting to the &amp;quot;resume print&amp;quot; screen, to restarting as if freshly powered up after a normal shutdown occurred because the connection issue had progressed to the point of producing two or more disconnects close enough together that the second restart lost the &amp;quot;print in progress&amp;quot; flag.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3 id=&quot;the-solution-riak&quot;&gt;The Solution&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What appears to have solved the problem was to remove the wiring cover on the PSU (ensure power is off and power cord disconnected, mains voltage is present inside this cover), disconnecting the spade terminals at the power switch, and (with pliers) carefully squeezing the female receptacles so they are tighter on the male blade.  This must be done carefully, as squeezing too hard will close up the female terminal and prevent reconnection, requiring either much more difficult adjustment with knife and miniature screwdriver, or replacement of the terminal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since applying this fix, I've completed a few longish prints (about 7 1/2 hours each) and a number of shorter ones without a single glitch, aside from an unrelated problem that caused a corrupted gcode file.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Adding to this, I did get one in-print reset after this answer; it happened while printing gyroid infill at (IIRC) 40%, which is some of largest ongoing acceleration (=&amp;gt; machine frame movement) of anything you'd do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My final solution has been to add &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4910834&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;a third bracket&lt;/a&gt; to the power supply, so three corners are supported.  Now the power supply doesn't wiggle and wobble when the machine shifts a little; it's back to a near-rigid mount to the frame (if anything, a little sturdier than the original two screws through an upright).  I haven't tried gyroid infill again, but I've had 100% reliability (including a couple large prints at 7+ hours) since installing this third bracket.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28508" LastEditorUserId="28508" LastEditDate="2021-07-18T13:01:26.757" LastActivityDate="2021-07-18T13:01:26.757" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16659" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16660" CreationDate="2021-07-02T23:43:55.787" Score="3" ViewCount="1168" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got some sliced models that represent the &lt;strong&gt;right&lt;/strong&gt;-side arms and legs of a robot. I'm really happy with how they printed, so now I'd like to print the &lt;strong&gt;left&lt;/strong&gt;-side arms and legs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was thinking it would be pretty trivial to parse the G-code file using Python and change the value of all the &lt;code&gt;Xn&lt;/code&gt; commands from &lt;code&gt;n&lt;/code&gt; to &lt;code&gt;2*h - n&lt;/code&gt;, where &lt;code&gt;h&lt;/code&gt; is in the middle of the bed, say 110 or 120 mm for an Ender 3.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Before I fire up my favorite IDE, are there any major gotchas I might encounter from such a naïve approach to mirroring the G-code like this? I originally sliced in Cura 4.9.1.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28935" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-07-03T01:07:45.197" LastActivityDate="2022-10-07T17:58:19.613" Title="Reverse the X-axis of a G-code file" Tags="|g-code|python|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16660" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16659" CreationDate="2021-07-03T03:47:10.247" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If your slicer does not have a mirror operation or a scale that allows negative values then mirroring in the G-code should be straightforward.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As long as your printer doesn't have certain specific tool change or homing or purge positions that are done in the G-code you can just transform it, otherwise you would want to skip these sections and just do the model data (it should be obvious looking at the code where model data starts).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In order to mirror it you just need to swap out the X coordinates in your G-code, If (0,0) is the center of your bed, as is often (but not always) the case for delta printers you will just want to negate the X, so &lt;code&gt;G1 X30 Y-3 Z2&lt;/code&gt; becomes &lt;code&gt;G1 X-30 Y-3 Z2&lt;/code&gt;.  If your coordinates have (0,0) in a corner  (often the case for orthogonal printers) then you want to subtract X from the maximum X value. for instance if your bed is 250 mm wide then in &lt;code&gt;G1 X30 Y10 Z3  X30&lt;/code&gt; becomes &lt;code&gt;X(250-30)&lt;/code&gt; or &lt;code&gt;G1 X220 Y10 Z3&lt;/code&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is only one caveat, some slicers will switch to relative movement using &lt;code&gt;G91&lt;/code&gt; for certain operations and then back to absolute with &lt;code&gt;G90&lt;/code&gt;, so you will want to look out for these. Between a &lt;code&gt;G91&lt;/code&gt; and a &lt;code&gt;G90&lt;/code&gt; you will want to negate the X, no matter where the origin of your printer is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When writing your script, I'd keep track of the minimum and maximum values encountered and the new minimum and maximum values and print them at the end as a sanity check so you can see if anything is wonky.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="634" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2021-07-03T17:38:34.137" LastActivityDate="2021-07-03T17:38:34.137" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16661" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-07-03T04:11:56.937" Score="1" ViewCount="644" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently did a G29 (run mesh calibration) and my printer did a 25 point probe and reported back the stats to the console.  After this I went to the height map section and it says &amp;quot;height map not available&amp;quot; and no stats can be used here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I tried to load the height map using G29 S1 and am getting:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;code&gt;G29 S1 Error: G29: Failed to load height map from file heightmap.csv: Could not find file '/opt/dsf/sd/sys/heightmap.csv'&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know what I am doing wrong?  Below is info about my control board and firmware.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;RepRapFirmware for Duet 3 MB6HC version 3.1.1 running on Duet 3 MB6HC v1.01 or later (SBC mode)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27750" LastActivityDate="2022-04-08T20:02:12.307" Title="Generating height map with Rep Rap" Tags="|reprap|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16662" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16659" CreationDate="2021-07-03T05:45:21.840" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Based on @John Mecham's comprehensive answer, I whipped up a quick proof of concept. In the image below, the left arrow (top) is the original and the right arrow (bottom) is the reversed clone. Cura does generate a little relative offset code at the end, I think I handled it correctly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ncnZP.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ncnZP.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Left and right arrows&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;import re&#xA;&#xA;data_start = re.compile('^;LAYER_COUNT:[0-9]+')&#xA;&#xA;ifilename = 'c:/Users/jentron128/Downloads/ThingVerse/Tools/arrow.gcode'&#xA;ofilename = 'c:/Users/jentron128/Downloads/ThingVerse/Tools/rev_arrow.gcode'&#xA;&#xA;new_data =[]&#xA;BEDX = float(235)&#xA;h = BEDX # Absolute Positioning is default&#xA;&#xA;mode='Skip'&#xA;&#xA;with open(ifilename, 'r') as ifp:&#xA;    for d in ifp:&#xA;        new_d = ''&#xA;        tokens = d.split()&#xA;        if len(tokens) == 0:&#xA;            pass&#xA;        elif mode == 'Skip':&#xA;            new_d = d[0:-1]&#xA;            if data_start .match(d):&#xA;                mode = 'Go'&#xA;        else:&#xA;            if tokens[0] == 'G91': # Relative Positioning&#xA;                h = 0 &#xA;            elif tokens[0] == 'G90':# Absolute Positioning&#xA;                h = BEDX&#xA;                &#xA;            for t in tokens:&#xA;                if t.startswith('X'):&#xA;                    if len(t) &amp;gt; 1:&#xA;                        x = h - float(t[1:])&#xA;                        t = 'X'+f'{x:.3f}'&#xA;                new_d += t+' '&#xA;        &#xA;        new_data.append(new_d)&#xA;&#xA;with open(ofilename, 'w') as ofp:&#xA;    for d in new_data:&#xA;        ofp.write(d+'\n') # how does writelines not support a line separator?&#xA;    &#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28935" LastActivityDate="2021-07-03T05:45:21.840" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16663" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16796" CreationDate="2021-07-03T08:18:12.077" Score="5" ViewCount="283" Body="&lt;p&gt;As you can see the left side of the edge came out jagged. The right side came out just fine. What happened to the left side?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am using Ender 3 + BLTouch using Sunlu PLA+ with 200 °C hotend.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.imgur.com/Ki7ZzQ4.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Left side&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.imgur.com/Ki7ZzQ4.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Left side&quot; title=&quot;Left side&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/W02pj.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Right side&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/W02pj.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Right side&quot; title=&quot;Right side&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are my retraction settings (if that matters):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rA7gh.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Retraction settings&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rA7gh.png&quot; alt=&quot;Retraction settings&quot; title=&quot;Retraction settings&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="29175" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2021-07-03T17:43:30.457" LastActivityDate="2021-07-26T09:33:23.227" Title="Jagged edge on one side and not on the other side" Tags="|creality-ender-3|print-quality|prusaslicer|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16664" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-07-03T12:05:28.550" Score="6" ViewCount="818" Body="&lt;p&gt;On a resin printer, if I'm printing 5-6 similarly sized items (Warhammer figures, for example) should I group them close together, or space them far apart, in order to get best adhesion on the build plate and least suction on the FEP?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="29097" LastEditorUserId="28397" LastEditDate="2021-07-05T13:59:57.493" LastActivityDate="2021-08-08T18:32:05.197" Title="Should I put my models close together on the build plate, or space them out, to minimise suction?" Tags="|resin|build-plate|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16665" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-07-03T13:14:36.067" Score="1" ViewCount="1199" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can I cut down an iPad screen protector and stick it over the top of my Elegoo Saturn to protect the LCD from scratches or resin leaks\drips?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or will this harm printing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Additional information&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A resin printer has an LCD screen underneath the resin tank. It shines a light up through the tank (which has a transparent bottom), which cures a thin layer of resin. The built plate then moves up slightly allowing more liquid resin to flow in underneath. The process then repeats.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are particular wavelengths that must be allowed through. It's 405 nm (at least that's what is written on the side of the resin bottles that I use), which is UV light.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="29097" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2021-07-05T08:51:03.393" LastActivityDate="2021-07-05T08:51:03.393" Title="Screen protector for Elegoo Saturn?" Tags="|maintenance|replacement-parts|lcd-screen|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16666" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16639" CreationDate="2021-07-03T19:08:38.613" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It seems that it doesn't matter. But it's probably a lot easier if you use a bradel (awl) to pre puncture the holes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="29097" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-07-05T07:07:56.313" LastActivityDate="2021-07-05T07:07:56.313" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16667" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-07-03T22:19:56.020" Score="1" ViewCount="539" Body="&lt;p&gt;I’m gearing up for making batch of 30 or so drilled aluminum enclosures (guitar pedals!), and getting the holes drilled accurately is a challenge. I’d like to make a 3D printed drilling template that fits over the box. The plastic alone is too soft to keep from getting deformed by repeated drilling. I’d seen these steel bushing inserts machinists use for their drilling templates. I’d love to use the kind with knurls or ridges so they press into the plastic and won’t get loose and spin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only problem is they seem to be unusually expensive- \$8 apiece at &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.mcmaster.com/drill-bushings/drill-bushings-for-plastic-6/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;McMaster Carr&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The one other question here about these mentions “castable bushings” but are similarly rare and expensive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a less expensive part that would work well with plastic? Or a clever method for getting an accurate 3D printed drill template that would stand up to repeated use?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This would be used with a drill press and I would be happy with 0.125” (~3.2 mm) drill bits, or similar size, for pilot holes, and drill the holes to various final sizes as a second operation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27077" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-07-10T23:41:49.930" LastActivityDate="2021-09-08T03:43:59.683" Title="Making durable 3D printed drill templates?" Tags="|hardware|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="12" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16668" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16665" CreationDate="2021-07-04T19:53:32.940" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The primary consideration you'd have by adding a screen protector is that you've added distance between the LCD panel and your build plate. Currently, the FEP film is in contact with the LCD panel. By inserting a screen protector, you've increased the distance light has to travel to reach the resin on the other side of the FEP film. It's certainly going to be a very small distance, but not a zero value.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The increased distance will allow a bit of diffraction and diffusion of the UV light passing through the protector film. If your models are not particularly detailed, you may not notice the difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Consider to print a &lt;a href=&quot;http://ameralabs.com/blog/town-calibration-part/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;test model&lt;/a&gt; designed for resin printers prior to installing the protector. Perhaps print more than one, in different resins. Once installed, print the same sequence again and examine carefully for detail changes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another aspect of this &amp;quot;project&amp;quot; is that screen protectors are removable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rw7DA.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rw7DA.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;amerilabs test print&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Image courtesy of linked site. Note that the linked site requires the user to sign up for newsletters in order to receive the free STL file, but one can immediately unsubscribe. Other 3d resin printer test models may be available.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The site has useful information regarding &amp;quot;reading&amp;quot; the printed model with respect to the results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastActivityDate="2021-07-04T19:53:32.940" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16669" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-07-04T23:33:14.313" Score="0" ViewCount="235" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a problem with my Creality Ender 3 printer. When I start printing, the first few levels go fine. But then the extruder starts slowly moving in the wrong direction and after a few minutes the extruder is completely out of its original position so the whole printing is ruined.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried to start again but it is doing the same thing all the time. Calibration and modification of the bed does not help. Can you advise me on how to fix this situation?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="29184" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-07-05T06:58:06.413" LastActivityDate="2021-07-05T06:58:06.413" Title="Movement of the extruder out of its original position during printing" Tags="|creality-ender-3|extruder|layer-shifting|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16670" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-07-05T13:46:23.360" Score="1" ViewCount="44" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just received delivery of some new filament and after a few layers of printing some segments will start to &amp;quot;pop&amp;quot; off the bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've calibrated esteps and levelled bed. It only seems to happen with this new filament&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="29191" LastActivityDate="2021-07-05T13:46:23.360" Title="Why do segments of my print &quot;pop&quot; off the bed after a few layers?" Tags="|creality-ender-3|pla|filament|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="5" ClosedDate="2021-07-07T06:10:32.807" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16671" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16667" CreationDate="2021-07-05T19:19:28.003" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Found one source for small “doweling jigs”, the Telco 06120TK, on &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B00K0QO9AG&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Amazon&lt;/a&gt;, $1.50 per bushing in packs of 10. Not the neat, press-in kind, they thread into a 1/2”-20 nut, but they are tempered steel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They are a little thick and tall, which would make the template thick and tall, but the printed template could be cored out so it doesn’t have to be a solid, thick piece of printed plastic on top of the box.  The threaded bit would make them reusable though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The search was helped by putting in the ID you want (1/8” in this case), and getting into the woodworking category, rather than business/industrial.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: Here's a design for 3D printed drill template with the doweling bushings.  For the holes that were too close and interfered I'm going to try the suggestion of using pressed in 6-32 steel nuts, but drill them out.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JQHjP.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JQHjP.png&quot; alt=&quot;Drill Template&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT #2:After drilling a test with the 3D printed drill template, results are underwhelming.  The hole pattern is a little undersize, about 0.5%, which has made the holes on opposite sides of the drill template out of tolerance by about .015&amp;quot;, not great for matching a PCB.  I believe the issue is plastic shrink, which is expressed as a percentage, an error that ends up as a multiplication of size.  So the 3D printed drill template, as shown, not reccommended for tight dimensional tolerances without experimenting dialing in the scale with the filament to be used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27077" LastEditorUserId="27077" LastEditDate="2021-09-08T03:43:59.683" LastActivityDate="2021-09-08T03:43:59.683" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16672" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-07-05T21:22:52.817" Score="2" ViewCount="11203" Body="&lt;p&gt;How would I begin measuring my hotend / carriage dimensions in Marlin to prevent my hotend from slamming into the frame?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I see in Marlin the 'define bed size' parameters&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#define Y_BED_SIZE 360       &#xA;#define Z_MAX_POS 400          &#xA;#if ENABLED(E3DHemera)            &#xA;#define X_BED_SIZE 352            &#xA;#define X_MAX_POS 352          &#xA;#else           &#xA;#define X_BED_SIZE 360       &#xA;#define X_MAX_POS 360             &#xA;#endif          &#xA;#define Y_MAX_POS 360           &#xA;#define ClipClearance 25       &#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But how would I go about measuring my hotend / carriage assembly to edit the values accordingly?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure how I would measure it or at what point of reference I'm measuring from, is it from the nozzle to the edge of the hotend carriage in both the X and Y or total space on X and Y.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm using an Ender 5 plus.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a custom-made aluminum hot end carriage for my E3D Hemera.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I defined the BLTouch probe offset.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm using &amp;quot;Tiny Machines&amp;quot; firmware and my next step in the installation is defining the aforementioned parameters.&#xA;In the video tutorial, I'm watching for installation they are using a different mount for their E3D Hemera, so I'm unsure how I would go about defining my own values for my setup.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The guide I'm following is here &lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/-6C7sGRkZSc?start=1865&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also moved one of my end stops closer to the carriage because my original endstop would trigger on the wheels, but now that I installed the new carriage, it hits the frame before triggering the endstop, is there an endstop offset value I can adjust for what I think is my Y-axis?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(The axis going from left to right)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="29200" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-07-08T08:07:42.070" LastActivityDate="2021-07-12T12:12:20.323" Title="How to define bed dimensions in Marlin for custom carriage / hot end?" Tags="|marlin|troubleshooting|hotend|creality-ender-5|carriage|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16673" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16672" CreationDate="2021-07-05T22:04:38.737" Score="1" Body="&lt;h2&gt;TL&amp;amp;DR&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using a larger carriage will, if too large, diminish the printing area.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To determine the correct values (for the X-axis) you:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;First need to assure that the nozzle can reach the origin, if not, try to see if you can move the endstop without the carriage hitting the frame, if not possible, your left margin will be decreased. If there was enough space for the carriage, and a value for &lt;code&gt;X_MIN_POS&lt;/code&gt; defined, this value needs to be decreased. See &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6375/how-to-center-my-prints-on-the-build-platform-re-calibrate-homing-offset&quot;&gt;How to center my prints on the build platform? (Re-calibrate homing offset)&lt;/a&gt; to set these margins correctly as you effectively need to reposition the print area on the build area.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Second, define the bed dimensions temporarily to be the design size (do note to not bluntly jog the carriage to the end positions!).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Now flash the firmware and home the X-axis, jog the carriage in increments to the right and observe the position on the LCD or through a connected application over USB. When the carriage is about to hit the frame, note the value, this is your bed X size (for a CoreXY make sure the carriage is clear over the whole Y-axis).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Something similar can be done for the Y-axis.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When you have noted the maximum sizes in X and Y direction, change the firmware and re-flash the printer board.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;More details&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The text below goes a little more in depth, first some definitions, then some theory.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Definitions&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Axes&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;In reaction to:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The axis going from left to right&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When &lt;em&gt;facing your printer&lt;/em&gt; the &lt;em&gt;left to right movement&lt;/em&gt; is your &lt;em&gt;X-axis&lt;/em&gt;, &lt;em&gt;back and forth&lt;/em&gt; the &lt;em&gt;Y-axis&lt;/em&gt; and &lt;em&gt;up and down&lt;/em&gt; the &lt;em&gt;Z-axis&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;sub&gt;   -&amp;gt; Please note this is generally the most used printer convention, exceptions are applicable.&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Dimensions&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;em&gt;Hotend dimensions&lt;/em&gt; are needed for your &lt;em&gt;slicer&lt;/em&gt; (when you need to sequentially print multiple objects), &lt;em&gt;firmware&lt;/em&gt; uses &lt;em&gt;bed dimensions and positions&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Bed dimensions&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The following image reflects the changes to the build area when a larger sized carriage is used on the same printer (grey is the original size, red is the decreased area as a result of a larger carriage; &lt;em&gt;note this is for fixed endstop positions!&lt;/em&gt;). Note, this is an example, CoreXY machines have limited space, so a decreased print area is more likely to be seen in both X and Y dimension. Prusa i3 style printers have the Y endstop generally on the bed carriage, so the bed size in Y will most likely not decrease. It totally depends on the construction of the printer, the extra space between the frame parts and the carriage (usually you can see that instantly by the endstop offsets, if there aren't homing endstop offsets, there is not extra space and the print dimension of that axis will decrease) or the ability to move the offset. Note that the bottom half of the image draws the out the result for losing X movement, the red area does account for losing Y movement as well, this is not uncommon for CoreXY, especially the printers with limited extra space for the carriage beyond the minimum and maximum bed positions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NECew.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NECew.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;How does this translate to your situation?&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From Tiny Machines (TM) firmware (InsanityAutomation) you'll find that:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;    #define X_MIN_POS 0&#xA;    #define Y_MIN_POS 0&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This tells you that there is no offset from the homing endstop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;    #if ENABLED(E3DHemera)&#xA;      #define X_BED_SIZE 352&#xA;      #define X_MAX_POS 352&#xA;    #else&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This tells you that there is less printing space in the X direction available.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From Marlin configurations (2.0.9.1), you can find something similar. It looks like somebody did a similar attempt, but added the offset to the &lt;code&gt;X_MIN_POS&lt;/code&gt; and mixed up the signs (it does hint to a 8 mm offset, so the creator probably also has a e3D Hemera extruder).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the TM constants we read that the endstops in fact define the origin of the printer to be at the endstops (the &lt;code&gt;MIN&lt;/code&gt; values are zero) so the printer is at the origin when homed. Because of the larger extruder, already 8 mm of the X dimension is used, hence the smaller bed size of 306 - 8 = 352 mm. This is also the &lt;code&gt;X_MAX_POS&lt;/code&gt;, the carriage is not allowed further. You should now look into your custom mount and the endstop location and deduce your own &amp;quot;x mm&amp;quot; offset.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-07-12T12:12:20.323" LastActivityDate="2021-07-12T12:12:20.323" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16676" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16677" CreationDate="2021-07-06T12:53:36.570" Score="1" ViewCount="727" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Prusa i3 MK3S with the MMU on it. At my work, I'm creating a display case to advertise/show off the 3D printing we can do.  I was thinking about putting the Prusa in the display case and having it &amp;quot;run&amp;quot; for the two weeks we're in there. I was thinking it'd be cool if I could have the printer pretend to print, i.e. move the axes around, move the bed every so often, etc., but without the need to worry about if a print was messing up (it'll be in a locked cabinet I may not notice more than once a day).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd just slice a long print but then the Prusa will wonder where the material is. Any thoughts on how to create that custom G-code?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15186" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-07-06T17:55:59.560" LastActivityDate="2021-07-06T17:55:59.560" Title="G-code to make printer move around without actually printing" Tags="|g-code|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16677" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16676" CreationDate="2021-07-06T12:57:17.400" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The simple way to do this is to slice a very long print (near maximum volume should run to 24 hours or longer, anyway), but set your slicer to nozzle temp of 0 °C and extrusion flow rate of zero.  Back the filament out of the hot end (in case you want to change before resuming actual printing), but you can leave it in the extruder and Bowden tube so everything looks &amp;quot;normal&amp;quot;.  You can also optionally set the slicer to a lower print speed to draw out the movement, though this may give a distorted impression of how fast or slow the machine is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do test before you set up the exhibit, as it's easy to miss something when doing special settings like this...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28508" LastEditorUserId="28508" LastEditDate="2021-07-06T13:47:08.797" LastActivityDate="2021-07-06T13:47:08.797" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16678" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-07-06T22:17:24.150" Score="1" ViewCount="202" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've upgraded my board to SKR1.4 Turbo with RepRap firmware. Everything works, but motors move double the request. &lt;code&gt;M112&lt;/code&gt; reports them as 'no-driver-detected'.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;    M112&#xA;    === Diagnostics ===&#xA;    RepRapFirmware for LPC176x based Boards (biquskr_1.4) version 3.2.2_2 running on LPC176x at 120Mhz&#xA;    Used output buffers: 3 of 16 (16 max)&#xA;    === RTOS ===&#xA;    Static ram: 4956&#xA;    Dynamic Memory (RTOS Heap 5): 8232 free, 8192 never used&#xA;    Allocations: 188 Frees: 34&#xA;    Never used RAM 256, free system stack 18 words&#xA;    Tasks: NETWORK(ready,195) HEAT(blocked,243) MAIN(running,358) IDLE(ready,21)&#xA;    Owned mutexes: WiFi(NETWORK)&#xA;    === Platform ===&#xA;    Last reset 00:05:40 ago, cause: [software]&#xA;    Last software reset at 2021-07-06 23:53, reason: User, GCodes spinning, available RAM 80, slot 2&#xA;    Software reset code 0x0003 HFSR 0x00000000 CFSR 0x00000000 ICSR 0x00425000 BFAR 0xe000ed38 SP 0x00000000 Task MAIN Freestk 0 n/a&#xA;    Error status: 0x04&#xA;    Aux0 errors 0,0,0&#xA;    Supply voltage: under voltage events: 0&#xA;    Driver 0: position 37762, no-driver-detected&#xA;    Driver 1: position 37762, no-driver-detected&#xA;    Driver 2: position 37762, no-driver-detected&#xA;    Driver 3: position 0, no-driver-detected&#xA;    Driver 4: position 0&#xA;    Driver 5: position 0&#xA;    Driver 6: position 0&#xA;    Date/time: 2021-07-06 23:59:06&#xA;    Slowest loop: 9.08ms; fastest: 0.10ms&#xA;    Step timer: target 197699275 count 340845874 delta -143146599 late 0&#xA;    USBSerial connected 0&#xA;    ADC not ready 2 ADC error threshold 10 ADC Init 1&#xA;    Ints: 0; Calls 0; fast: 4294967295uS; slow 0uS adj 0 bad 0 big delta 0&#xA;    PWM Channels&#xA;    Delta -1660064855 Start -1 End -1&#xA;    === Storage ===&#xA;    Free file entries: 6&#xA;    SD card 0 detected&#xA;    SD card longest read time 1.5ms, write time 0.0ms, max retries 0&#xA;    === Move ===&#xA;    DMs created 40, maxWait 159279ms, bed compensation in use: none, comp offset 0.000&#xA;    === DDARing ===&#xA;    Scheduled moves 21, completed moves 21, hiccups 0, stepErrors 0, LaErrors 0, Underruns [0, 0, 12], CDDA state -1&#xA;    === Heat ===&#xA;    Bed heaters = 0, chamberHeaters = -1&#xA;    === GCodes ===&#xA;    Segments left: 0&#xA;    Movement lock held by null&#xA;    HTTP is idle in state(s) 0&#xA;    File is idle in state(s) 0&#xA;    USB is idle in state(s) 0&#xA;    Aux is idle in state(s) 0&#xA;    Trigger is idle in state(s) 0&#xA;    Queue is idle in state(s) 0&#xA;    Daemon is idle in state(s) 0&#xA;    Autopause is idle in state(s) 0&#xA;    Code queue is empty.&#xA;    === Network ===&#xA;    Slowest loop: 191.40ms; fastest: 0.00ms&#xA;    Responder states: HTTP(2) HTTP(0)&#xA;    HTTP sessions: 1 of 2&#xA;    - WiFi -&#xA;    Network state is active&#xA;    WiFi module is connected to access point &#xA;    Failed messages: pending 0, notready 0, noresp 0&#xA;    WiFi firmware version 1.25-01LE-D&#xA;    WiFi MAC address 74:59:09:3b:82:bd&#xA;    WiFi Vcc 2.93, reset reason Turned on by main processor&#xA;    WiFi flash size 4194304, free heap 36360&#xA;    WiFi IP address 192.168.0.200&#xA;    WiFi signal strength -80dBm, mode 802.11n, reconnections 0, sleep mode modem&#xA;    Clock register 00181001&#xA;    Socket states: 0 0&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But &lt;code&gt;M569&lt;/code&gt; seems to be able to communicate with the drivers:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;    M569 P0&#xA;    Drive 0 runs in reverse, active low enable, timing fast, mode stealthChop, ccr 0x00053, toff 3, tblank 0, tpwmthrs 2000 (4.7 mm/sec), pwmScaleSum 0, pwmScaleAuto 0, pwmOfsAuto 0, pwmGradAuto 0, pos 0&#xA;&#xA;    M569 P0 D2&#xA;&#xA;    M569 P0&#xA;    Drive 0 runs in reverse, active low enable, timing fast, mode spreadCycle, ccr 0x00053, toff 3, tblank 0, hstart/hend/hdec 5/0/0, pos 0&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you can see, I managed to change the setting from 'stealthChop' to 'spreadCycle'.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also tried editing the &lt;code&gt;config.g&lt;/code&gt; to check if the stepping is set correctly and, unfortunately, it is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both &lt;code&gt;M350 X16 Y16 Z16 E16 I1&lt;/code&gt; and &lt;code&gt;M350 X256 Y256 Z256 E256&lt;/code&gt; make the stepper motors run twice the distance in mm required.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can fix this problem by setting the steps per mm from 80 to 40, but I always ran 80 and online calculators say that my steps/mm are 80.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there something that I missed checking? How is it possible that the motors spin twice the required?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="29223" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-07-07T06:05:37.740" LastActivityDate="2021-07-07T06:05:37.740" Title="TMC2208 v1.2 stepper motor drivers not detected on SKR 1.4 turbo with RepRap firmware" Tags="|reprap|bigtreetech|skr-v1.4|tmc2208|tmc2209|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16679" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16511" CreationDate="2021-07-07T05:27:20.677" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I got a roll of Hatchbox PETG and the prints are fantastic. Small test prints don't break along the layers even at higher fan speeds. The problem was the Polymax PETG. I took a look at the TDS for it and the impact strength on standing samples was only 29% of the standing ones. I believe the Polymax PETG just has inherent layer adhesion problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Please note that Polymax PETG isn't PETG, it's PCTG. I may try doing some firmware changes and printing it at 270 °C later on.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28896" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-07-07T08:33:22.353" LastActivityDate="2021-07-07T08:33:22.353" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16680" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-07-07T19:19:05.760" Score="3" ViewCount="209" Body="&lt;p&gt;I got a new hotend for my Ender 3. When I start to 3D print a model, everything seems to be going well. After about 20 minutes or so the extrusion stops and the extruder motor can't push the filament through the hotend. I can usually fix the problem by pushing the filament in with my hand, but I don't know why it has such trouble pushing the filament out on its own after 20 minutes of printing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I am printing with PETG filament, at about 200 °C. (I also got a new thermistor, and the readings on the new thermistor, could be about 20 degrees higher than they really are.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The filament feeder knurled knob (shown below) hasn't been replaced since the day I got my 3D printer, and that may also be the culprit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ww98F.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Filament feeder grinder thingy (knurled knob)&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ww98F.png&quot; alt=&quot;Filament feeder grinder thingy (knurled knob)&quot; title=&quot;Filament feeder grinder thingy (knurled knob)&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23125" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2021-07-08T03:23:55.150" LastActivityDate="2021-07-08T03:23:55.150" Title="Ender 3 extrusion not working properly" Tags="|creality-ender-3|filament|extrusion|underextrusion|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16681" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16680" CreationDate="2021-07-08T00:40:56.550" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;200°C is &lt;strong&gt;way too cold&lt;/strong&gt; for printing PETG, especially with the Ender 3's weak extruder (ungeared, single flat hob with minimal contact with the filament) that already struggles with PETG. Probably it barely manages to keep up while the flow is low enough, but starts slipping in the extruder at some point in your print that needs higher flow, and then the torn-up surface of the filament makes it skip more and more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Increase your temperature to 235˚C at the very least; 245˚C is what I use and I have geometry-dependent trouble with layer adhesion below that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2021-07-08T00:40:56.550" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16682" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16663" CreationDate="2021-07-08T04:24:53.860" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;This may be due to uneven cooling. The part cooling fan only comes from one direction on the Ender 3 series of printers. You may be able to solve the issue by printing the walls from the outside in. If not, I recommend printing a fan shroud that has part cooling ducts on both sides; there are plenty of them on thingiverse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28896" LastActivityDate="2021-07-08T04:24:53.860" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16683" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17896" CreationDate="2021-07-08T13:30:55.723" Score="4" ViewCount="2163" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some time ago, I bought an Elegoo Mars 2 Pro, and I really liked the product. This is my first resin printer and I am very satisfied.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What has been bothering me a little is in relation to the slicer. When I slice an item, Chitubox shows 3 hour/20 g (consumption), but this does not converge, when I print the final result is about 40 % higher than expected, this in both cases (time and resin consumption). I understand that resin consumption can be a little more relative, but time should converge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My settings are the defaults provided by Chitubox, changing only the resin settings I use: 8 initial layers in 50 s and 2.5 s for other layers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there something I'm doing wrong? Should these values converge with reality?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27845" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-07-08T14:03:47.237" LastActivityDate="2022-12-12T18:25:10.677" Title="Chitubox estimated time very away from the real time" Tags="|resin|sla|dlp|chitu|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16684" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16685" CreationDate="2021-07-09T08:28:56.900" Score="0" ViewCount="114" Body="&lt;p&gt;This might be an odd question, as rather than being disappointed by the raft material that Cura produces, I actually love it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It prints quickly, is sturdy yet flexible...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was wondering whether anyone knew of a way to make the walls / base of a print use the raft patterning? Is there a strategy for using this kind of material in CAD apps, or has anyone tried implementing a plugin for Cura to turn all walls into rafts?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="29264" LastActivityDate="2021-07-09T10:03:53.047" Title="Use raft pattern instead of wall" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|rafts|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16685" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16684" CreationDate="2021-07-09T10:03:53.047" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cura, like many slicers, allows one to set the number of passes for top, bottom and sides. By setting these values to zero, your model becomes completely and only infill. The pattern selection for infill allows you to choose the design which would appeal to you and possibly match that of the raft.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've just now imported a mostly monolithic STL file and tested the above. By varying the percentage of infill, various patterns result. Low infill percentage values make for a mostly empty print, while the higher numbers provide attractive geometric results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, one would want the original model to have sufficient wall thickness to create the objective.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastActivityDate="2021-07-09T10:03:53.047" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16686" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16690" CreationDate="2021-07-09T14:25:26.020" Score="4" ViewCount="2506" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just noticed the other day that my Ender 3 is printing stuff a lot slower than it can, and realized when I was slicing a part that it's because the default &amp;quot;Wall Print Speed&amp;quot; is half the &amp;quot;Print Speed&amp;quot; even though &amp;quot;Infill Speed&amp;quot; is full speed.  I can enter higher speeds, of course, but then Cura puts up a little notification that &amp;quot;this value is normally calculated, but it has been entered instead&amp;quot; and offers to put it back to the calculated default -- which is half the &amp;quot;Print Speed.&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I presume there are good reasons (print quality, underextrusion, etc.) for this -- what are they?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I guess it's relevant to note that I have a 4.2.2 mainboard and currently run Creality's version of 2.0.4-1.0.1 Marlin, the newest they offer for this board version without BLTouch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28508" LastEditorUserId="28508" LastEditDate="2021-07-09T16:36:36.540" LastActivityDate="2021-07-09T16:36:36.540" Title="Why does Cura default to printing walls so slowly?" Tags="|creality-ender-3|print-quality|ultimaker-cura|speed|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16687" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16356" CreationDate="2021-07-09T14:33:51.347" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the SLA Resin is not curing under the lamp after several hours, it is likely the lamp is not emitting the correct wavelength of UV light to properly cure your resin. Typical SLA resins cure at between 350-410 nm light. The listing you post does list the lamp as emitting 405 nm light, which would be in range. However, because of the failures you are encountering, it is likely that the lamp &lt;strong&gt;is not&lt;/strong&gt; emitting any UV light at all and is possibly fake.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;SLA parts can typically be left out in direct sunlight for a while to cure, as an alternative without requiring a curing machine or lamp. Finding a lamp on Amazon (or similar retailer) that has a lot of positive reviews &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.amazon.es/pantalla-giratorio-conducido-control-recinto/dp/B08H7Y1HQY&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;(such as this listing)&lt;/a&gt; will yield better results as unfortunately UV emitting products are often targets for fakes, as it is impossible to discern if something is producing UV light or not by the naked eye.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is also feasible to make your own curing lamp (or box) with genuine UV emitting LED's purchased from reputable parts retailers such as &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.digikey.es/products/es/optoelectronics/led-emitters-infrared-uv-visible/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;DigiKey&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.mouser.es/ultraviolet_leds/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Mouser&lt;/a&gt;,  but &lt;strong&gt;please take safety precautions when working with UV emitters&lt;/strong&gt;, as the eye cannot regulate the intake of UV light and can cause permanent eye damage!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It may be possible to test if your lamp is producing an appreciable amount of UV light with any bright white object, such as a piece of printer paper, and seeing if it fluoresces. Though this test may not be very accurate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6996" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-07-09T21:06:17.027" LastActivityDate="2021-07-09T21:06:17.027" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16688" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16686" CreationDate="2021-07-09T14:41:32.603" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Perimeters, especially External Perimeters, are particularly sensitive to small deflections of the printhead, as well as extrusion issues from too fast of a print speed. You may be able to increase this speed for regular perimeters, however,  higher speeds may introduce more ghosting issues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6996" LastActivityDate="2021-07-09T14:41:32.603" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16689" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-07-09T14:52:40.010" Score="3" ViewCount="1326" Body="&lt;p&gt;When considering enclosures able to reach higher chamber temperatures, insulation is essential to keep the heater power low.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Typical insulation materials are not transparent: cork (fire retardant, good for the inner hot side), rock wool, styrofoam panels, aluminium insulating panels (aluminium walls with foam in between).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Still, most of the time it's preferable to have one side of the enclosure transparent, to see what is happening inside without having to use a webcam (which may not work well or which may have a reduced lifespan when operated at 60-80 °C, due to capacitors and thermal noise in the sensor).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rock wool, styrofoam panels and cork all offer about 0.032-0.038 W/(m K) thermal conductivity. In other words, a panel which is 50 * 50 * 1 cm will require about 0.85 W per each °C of temperature increase, or 8.5 W per 10 °C. A cubic 50 * 50 * 50 cm enclosure 2 cm thick  would require 26 W to increase the inner temperature by 10 °C.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Replacing just one side with a transparent acrylic panel 3 mm thick would push the power requirement to about 190 W for every 10 °C of temperature increase, therefore finding a transparent insulation would be quite interesting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What are the options to have a transparent, but still reasonably insulating, panel?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2338" LastActivityDate="2021-07-17T19:17:13.713" Title="What are the options for an insulated but still transparent door for a 3D printer enclosure?" Tags="|enclosure|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16690" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16686" CreationDate="2021-07-09T16:01:27.397" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cura has a lot of bad defaults, but also a lot of defaults that are chosen to let you get acceptable prints out of a really bad printer, a miscalibrated printer, or a printer with bad firmware.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Printing at anything above very low speeds requires compensation for the differing pressure needed to move material through the nozzle at different flows. The printer firmware feature to do this compensation is known as &amp;quot;pressure advance&amp;quot; or &amp;quot;linear advance&amp;quot;, and is absent in stock firmware on most commercially produced printers, especially older ones. Without it, you'll get bulging corners and underextruded middles of your walls. This matters most on the &lt;em&gt;outer wall&lt;/em&gt;, which determines the dimensional accuracy and visual quality of your print; errors on the inner walls or infill will mostly be hidden and tend to even out, especially if the inner walls are printed after the outer ones so that the extrusion is constrained against the already-existing outer wall (but here's where Cura's wrong defaults come in: it defaults to printing outer wall last, which replicates the inner wall errors onto the outer wall!).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On a printer without pressure advance compensation, you can use either very low speeds (30 mm/s or preferably even lower) to get a decent outer wall, or you can use high acceleration and cornering velocity (but: most stock firmware doesn't handler cornering velocity correctly either) so that the corners aren't printed significantly slower than the rest of the wall, but at high acceleration/fast cornering you'll get ringing (ghosting) artifacts. These can also be eliminated with better tuning of your printer/firmware, but the point of Cura's defaults is giving decent output on a printer where that work hasn't been done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your printer has a version of Marlin (at least 2.0) with linear advance and junction deviation, or if you upgrade to that, or if you switch to Klipper, and then you tune these to match your printer, there's no reason to keep the outer wall speed low. With Klipper you can take the acceleration way up too (using input shaper to eliminate the ringing). This can give you prints many times faster than Cura's defaults. Even if you don't, you can still turn the speed and acceleration way up, but you'll get ugly and possibly structurally weak prints as a result.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2021-07-09T16:01:27.397" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16691" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-07-09T17:23:58.673" Score="1" ViewCount="64" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am trying to develop a process to print fixtures/jigs that can withstand a convection oven temperature of 165 °C. The tricky thing is that these parts have to be considered ESD safe (surface resistivity of &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$10^4 - 10^11, with 10^5 - 10^7$&lt;/span&gt; being optimal).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have found tons of options where I can get one property or the other, but have had little to no luck finding any companies that are able to fulfill both requirements.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also: the parts that I need to print need a high level of detail, (X/Y/Z accuracy of at least .005&amp;quot;, ideally tighter) so from my experience, I have focused my efforts on resin printers, but am also open to filament printers if they can provide the accuracy I need.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If anyone has any suggestions on printers to look into or companies that I may be able to reach out to for an inquiry it would help me a ton.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="29265" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-07-09T22:48:23.347" LastActivityDate="2021-07-09T22:48:23.347" Title="3D printing ESD safe/high temp parts" Tags="|print-material|resin|sla|material|temperature|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16692" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16691" CreationDate="2021-07-09T17:46:53.930" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are ESD safe nylon filaments available, but even they will be well above their glass transition (= softening and sagging under their own weight) before they get up to 165 °C.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I'd recommend is looking for a method to resin print the parts and add your ESD protection as a post-process.  Most UV cure resins are thermoset, in that they won't soften at temperatures below where they start to break down (i.e. char) -- but few if any are conductive enough to be ESD safe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't mind a coating that needs to be reapplied regularly (possibly before each bake cycle) I've seen liquid fabric softeners used to provide a conductive coating on home built ribbon tweeters (electrostatic speakers).  Something in the formula of these liquids produces a coating that's quite a good conductor of high voltage static charges.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28508" LastActivityDate="2021-07-09T17:46:53.930" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16695" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-07-09T20:43:29.783" Score="3" ViewCount="1290" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just ran a 3D benchy on my Lotmaxx SC-10 3D printer and it came out fantastic. No stringing, melting, the dimensions look good, the bed adhesion is perfect, and it is identical to the 3D model. But upon closer inspection, there is this funny-looking scar on the print that I have noticed on many prints before. It was even on the very first print I did on the printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A picture of it:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YEDFQ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YEDFQ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is causing this problem and what can I do to fix it. It only happens to one side usually only once or twice. Whenever the scar happens twice, they are on the same side but far apart from each other.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21856" LastActivityDate="2021-07-09T22:19:35.887" Title="3D printer putting scars on my prints" Tags="|surface|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16696" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16697" CreationDate="2021-07-09T20:52:05.313" Score="2" ViewCount="58" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have three stepper motors each with its own stepper driver. Two of those motors have the same lead screw, while the third has a ball screw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I need to be able to set the E-steps for the ball screw differently than the two lead screws.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can this even be done in Marlin 2.0?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28874" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-07-09T21:20:04.257" LastActivityDate="2021-07-09T22:14:11.513" Title="Separate Z-stepper E-steps" Tags="|marlin|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16697" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16696" CreationDate="2021-07-09T22:14:11.513" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately, It does not appear that any firmware currently available supports this feature, however you can &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/issues/new?assignees=&amp;amp;labels=T%3A+Feature+Request&amp;amp;template=feature_request.yml&amp;amp;title=%5BFR%5D+%28feature+summary%29&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;request the feature on the marlin GitHub repository&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6996" LastActivityDate="2021-07-09T22:14:11.513" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16698" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16695" CreationDate="2021-07-09T22:19:35.887" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Those marks are the Z Layer seams, or the point where your printer stops moving in X/Y to move up one layer width and begin on the next layer. Unfortunately, These marks are unavoidable, but you can tune them to be less severe with your retraction settings. Most slicer software available today should have a configurable option for 'Seam Alignment' that you can set to Random in order to space these marks randomly throughout the part, though this will mildly slow down the print. More advanced slicers such as PrusaSlicer are also capable of 'Seam Painting' where you can draw on your part where seam marks are acceptable. You may also be able to reduce them by setting your slicer to print External perimeters before internal perimeters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6996" LastActivityDate="2021-07-09T22:19:35.887" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16699" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16689" CreationDate="2021-07-09T22:25:12.647" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately there are very little solutions for fully transparent and thermally insulating materials. You may be able to use panels commonly used for greenhouses and hydroponics if you can accept losing full transparency and only being translucent. Another option may be to have &lt;strong&gt;two layers of your transparent material&lt;/strong&gt;, with an air-gap in between, as dry and still air is a very good thermal insulator.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6996" LastEditorUserId="6996" LastEditDate="2021-07-10T19:45:03.257" LastActivityDate="2021-07-10T19:45:03.257" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16700" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16689" CreationDate="2021-07-10T06:38:11.113" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Glass. Or more specifically, insulating two or three layer window panes between which is a vacuum or low heat conductive gas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These panels are quite effective, compared to single panes: on a  two layer sandwich, 9.5 mW/(m K) can be achieved with a Krypton filling, 5.5 mW/(m K) with Xenon. The sweet spot for avoiding too many loss from convection is usually below 10-15 mm per gas layer, depending on the gas. Three or even four glas panels can get away with much thicker total panes and avoid convection by having the gas insulator broken up into multiple layers as thin as 5 mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Such Mehrscheiben Isolierscheiben (insulating glazing) is often obtainable in any size from window makers and can come with a frame that contains the needed mechanisms to open or lock the box.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2021-07-13T07:12:21.683" LastActivityDate="2021-07-13T07:12:21.683" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16701" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3302" CreationDate="2021-07-10T09:36:36.830" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;As @Gunslinger suggested, I would also recommend Blender for these tasks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Blender comes with the Add-on &amp;quot;MeasureIt&amp;quot;, which has to be activated manually in &lt;strong&gt;Edit ► Preferences ► Add-ons ► Official/Community ►&lt;/strong&gt; search for MeasureIt, check the checkbox:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qoy5y.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Blender preferences&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qoy5y.png&quot; alt=&quot;Blender preferences&quot; title=&quot;Blender preferences&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Import your STL file via &lt;strong&gt;File ► Import ► STL ►&lt;/strong&gt; ...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Select your object and hit &lt;kbd&gt;TAB&lt;/kbd&gt; to enter Edit Mode and then follow the tips in this screenshot:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JmKQz.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Screenshot&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JmKQz.png&quot; alt=&quot;Screenshot&quot; title=&quot;Screenshot&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="29272" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2021-07-10T13:09:41.380" LastActivityDate="2021-07-10T13:09:41.380" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16703" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-07-10T15:29:05.477" Score="2" ViewCount="577" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an old Ender 3 printer. I have let it sit for a year without anything to print. Nothing major has happened to it like falling or setting things on the printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It has an old BLTouch. I set up the BLTouch in this way:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Auto home after setting Z-offset to zero&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Move Z-axis to what it thinks is zero.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Move the Z-axis down to a piece of paper until it barely grips (or up sometimes) to compensate for offset.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Copy the offset number positive or negative to the offset. It's also worth noting that my offset has been positive usually negative. Also it's nearly double what it was last time I did this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Then I start a print which includes an auto-home.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The magic happens now as the Z-axis rides nearly 3-5 mm above the surface of the printer bed. I have no idea why.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It might also be worth noting this printer is out of shape.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="29278" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-07-10T15:45:11.153" LastActivityDate="2021-07-10T15:45:11.153" Title="Z-axis rising from bed after BLTouch and homing" Tags="|creality-ender-3|z-axis|bltouch|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16704" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15799" CreationDate="2021-07-10T21:15:05.200" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had the same issue and thought I bricked it, so thank you for getting me on the right path! For Ender 3 Pro v4.2.2 motherboard, no Pinboard A, ISP Pinboard, or Burner required! In my case, I had used the provided pins (white housing) that were on the v4.2.2 motherboard itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In doing so I had to switch the positions of the red and blue wires in the 3-pin connector (glad I pay attention to those types of things), connected white and black connectors right beside it as the OP has figured out (the connector my BLTouch came with was a little big so I had to cut a wall of the white housing a little; it fits really well), and re-connected the original Z-axis cable (did not need to remove to start with, but still unused as the BLT pretty much replaces it).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="29279" LastEditorUserId="29279" LastEditDate="2021-07-12T12:19:54.517" LastActivityDate="2021-07-12T12:19:54.517" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16705" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16629" CreationDate="2021-07-10T21:54:20.160" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Other than higher carriage mass as you already noted, the only other reason to not go with Direct Drive over Bowden is the higher level of maintenance required. In most cases Direct Drive will provide advantages such as increasing the maximum flow speed, enabling the use of Linear/Pressure Advance, shortening Retraction moves, and better resistance to obstructions in the filament path, and more reliable printing of flexibles as you have already noted. As well, A direct drive system would allow a less-powerful stepper motor to be used, which cuts down on the carriage mass problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6996" LastActivityDate="2021-07-10T21:54:20.160" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16706" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16629" CreationDate="2021-07-11T02:23:34.067" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are really no reasons not to convert to direct drive, &lt;em&gt;provided you use a good one&lt;/em&gt;. Many of the direct drive kits, especially the ones that reuse the existing giant NEMA-17 stepper, are not very good and have tradeoffs due to excessive mass on the toolhead, imbalanced mass, interference with frame reducing print volume, etc. The modern way to do direct drive is with a &amp;quot;pancake&amp;quot; stepper far smaller and lighter, and gearing between 3:1 and 6:1 reduction to get the needed torque - look at the Orbiter, Sherpa Mini, etc. - or even a remote direct drive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Teaching Tech recently posted a video on this very topic, titled &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/ybTbuUBy2-s&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Why direct drive is not automatically better than bowden tube&lt;/a&gt; but then pretty much concluding that all the old reasons not to go direct drive no longer apply.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2021-07-11T02:23:34.067" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16708" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16712" CreationDate="2021-07-11T10:25:22.123" Score="0" ViewCount="187" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a set of 3MF files to enclose a MacroPad. They have openings for screws that go through top then PCB then into bottom, but I've been unable to figure out the dimensions of the screws needed and Google keeps trying to encourage me to design new screws, but is not returning results for determining the size and length of the screws needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've tried opening the file in a number of applications (OpenSCAD, LibreCAD, etc.) and am unable to figure this out (though this could just be due to inexperience with more than changing the size of existing 3D designs).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know if what I'm trying to do is possible, and if so, where can I read about how to do it, or if it's stunningly obvious, what size am I looking for?  If it matters I'm using Linux if it matters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The MacroPad 3MF files are found &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.retrobuiltgames.com/app/download/7126357959/3MF+Print+Files+Case+Macro+Keyboard+RC+Ver2.1.rar&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="29286" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-07-11T16:08:27.980" LastActivityDate="2021-07-11T19:02:11.767" Title="Determine screw size needed from 3MF file(s)" Tags="|3d-models|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16709" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-07-11T11:42:40.097" Score="2" ViewCount="655" Body="&lt;p&gt;I own a cheap 3D printer FLSUN Delta, which was bought 6 years ago. Several structural and other upgrades were done, such as additional frame links, a new heated bed with external MOSFET.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the past week in the middle of a print, the printhead came crashing into a printed object and bed. I made an emergency stop and started to look for the problem. I noticed that one of the stepper motors acted weird. Below is a more detailed description and the malfunction is presented on homing example.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;First I have disassembled the belt system so that stepper motors can spin freely to prevent more collisions of the printhead with frame and bed.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I have also tested all of the end stops with the &lt;code&gt;M119&lt;/code&gt; command and they all work perfectly.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Then I have set jog speeds to 5 mm/s in the Simplify3D's Machine Control Panel and sent &lt;code&gt;G28&lt;/code&gt; to home all axes. Two stepper motors did the job right as I was manually pressing the end stops, however, the third one rotated with much faster speed. This is more understandably explained with the help of the two following videos:&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;First one (&lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/Y5XCP43et2c&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;video for the X-axis stepper motor&lt;/a&gt;) is showing the movement of the working stepper motor - X-axis motor. When &lt;code&gt;G28&lt;/code&gt; is sent, the motor starts rotating until the X end stop is pressed and is then accordingly to the Marlin re-bumped again. The clicks can be heard. The noise is coming from the second stepper motor.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Second one (&lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/oGrWK0-pcbk&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;video for the Y-axis stepper motor&lt;/a&gt;) is showing the movement of the faulty motor (or faulty driver) - Y-axis motor. When &lt;code&gt;G28&lt;/code&gt; is sent, it starts to spin very fast. The first two clicks are from the X-axis end stop. The first click on the X-axis end stop stops the Y-axis motor, the second one continues its rotation until it is reversed at the first press on Y-axis end stop - the re-bump takes place and it is stopped at the second click on the Y-axis end stop.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Then I have switched the X and Y axis motors and the problem moved to X-axis, so I suspect that one of the stepper motor drivers is faulty. Correct me if I am wrong.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The printer uses the MKS Mini B V1.0 control board (see picture) and Marlin V1 (output from &lt;code&gt;M115&lt;/code&gt;) firmware (parameter &lt;code&gt;MOTHERBOARD&lt;/code&gt; is defined as 33, RAMPS 1.3/1.4 for extruder, fan and bed).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6q8w1.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Image of the control board&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6q8w1.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Image of the control board&quot; title=&quot;Image of the control board&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What do you suggest to resolve the problem:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is it possible to replace the faulty driver? I am more familiar with programming and Marlin than with actual PCBs and replacing their components.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is it better to replace the whole board and if yes, do you suggest getting an identical one or a different one, like MKS SBASE V1.3?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Any other suggestions?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="29287" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2021-07-13T07:11:16.750" LastActivityDate="2021-07-13T07:11:16.750" Title="Stepper motor driver dead?" Tags="|stepper-driver|mks|flsun|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16710" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2996" CreationDate="2021-07-11T16:47:26.000" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;After fighting with this for a while, I found out on the end stop pins, if coming from another setup like mine, you need to switch the ground pin to the center of the connector and the 5 volt pin to the pin it is reading, for example 1.29 pin on skr 1.4.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you do that then it will read the status of the pin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="29292" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2021-07-11T17:01:43.647" LastActivityDate="2021-07-11T17:01:43.647" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16711" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13583" CreationDate="2021-07-11T18:46:27.523" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is opinion-based, but the volcano has drawbacks that affect print quality, mine is oozier and sloppier than a V6 with the shorter, more precise melt zone. It isn’t a slam dunk upgrade, more of a special applications part. I think there is no point to using a Volcano unless you’re running big nozzles fast, like .8 mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your 5 mm&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt;/s throughput is low, the V6 is generally known as a ~13 mm&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt;/s volumetric throughput, vs the Volcano at 25 mm&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt;/s. This is due to the low temperature you favor, possibly something not ideal with your extruder. I could see...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;just living with the slow speed. I realize I vastly prefer print quality over print speed because one takes no human interaction and the other does.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;do what everyone else does. go hotter, plastic viscosity goes way down even with a 5-10 degree increase&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;increase extruder torque. If you can increase stepper current safely (know the limit for your driver and motor!) with a trim pot on the stepper driver, you may be able to get more torque before the motor skips steps. This can increase motor temperature. If you get more torque, at some point the filament will slip and get carved up by the extruder’s hobbed gear. Double geared extruder designs like Bondtech can grip the filament from both sides and get more traction on the filament if you want to get diabolical shoving the filament.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;use a larger nozzle for faster printing at your preferred temp. I’m loving the .6 mm nozzle for bigger prints. It has most of the detail of the .4 mm but double the plastic comes out. A larger nozzle hole means less pressure in the nozzle at a given temp and extruder feed rate&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you think the extruder might not be all it can be, try heating up the nozzle hotter than usual, and get the extruder going slow and steady, and pull a little on the filament by hand, see if it skips steps easily with a little resistance. It should pull pretty strong. I had a failing wire to my extruder that manifested in wimpy extrusion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27077" LastEditorUserId="27077" LastEditDate="2021-07-17T16:50:11.487" LastActivityDate="2021-07-17T16:50:11.487" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16712" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16708" CreationDate="2021-07-11T19:02:11.767" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Meshmixer (free, multi-platform) supports and imports .3MF file format. There's something amiss with the file named Macro Keyboard RC Ver2.1 Top MiniCutout. It appears that the object is created from two improperly overlapped objects that have been merged. The result is a hole that isn't quite a hole:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gMcAA.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gMcAA.png&quot; alt=&quot;object corner image with hole&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other files have holes that appear to be normal. Meshmixer can measure distances but that remains as an exercise to the reader, as it's a royal pain (opinion) to get results with that feature of the program.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wSlVE.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wSlVE.png&quot; alt=&quot;&amp;quot;normal&amp;quot; hole corner image&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The above image is of a different part (note image browser in screen cap) with a normal appearing hole.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The curious thing here is that Fusion 360 (free hobbyist license) also supports the file format and when imported, there is no anomaly with the pictured holes. This would imply that Meshmixer doesn't handle the format as correctly as it should. Also the measure feature of F360 is easier to use, resulting in a hole measurement of about 3.2 mm diameter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The larger hole measures to 5.0 mm diameter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3BUIS.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3BUIS.png&quot; alt=&quot;Fusion 360 image import&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All images created by me via respective programs with files provided by OP.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastActivityDate="2021-07-11T19:02:11.767" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16713" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-07-12T01:47:19.397" Score="1" ViewCount="883" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been battling print issues since my purchase of a new Creality CR-6 SE. I chose to do a firmware upgrade to see if it's perhaps a patched issue. I used the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.creality.com/download&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Creality Download page&lt;/a&gt; and downloaded the zip containing the 4.5.2 mainboard firmware for CR-6 SE.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I cleared an SD card and then put the .bin found/named (CR-6SE 32bit mainboard firmware\4.5.2mainboard (C &amp;amp; E version/CR-6SE - V1.0.2.bin)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It loaded and then I had no text.&#xA;I tried the next bin in the same folder, the same result... continued through all of them with the same result.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It appears that the other printer functions exist, I was able to run the bed leveling processes successfully, just no text is present to label anything or to indicate when it's working.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do I get the text to return to my display?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bonus: I navigated to the settings menu and clicked the language menu item (using icons to navigate) and then the printer UI freezes. I have to power cycle to interact with it again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="29298" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2021-07-12T14:01:50.743" LastActivityDate="2021-10-19T16:08:30.840" Title="How to restore languages to Creality CR-6 SE after firmware update?" Tags="|firmware|creality|creality-cr-6|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16715" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11743" CreationDate="2021-07-12T12:23:31.477" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;From a comment by the OP &lt;em&gt;(posted as a Community wiki)&lt;/em&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The supplier has just forwarded &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4002193&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;a solution&lt;/a&gt; but it is not what I was hoping for as I was looking for something that fitted in original hole/area.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Supplier suggestion (image):&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gwgpf.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gwgpf.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2021-07-12T12:23:31.477" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2021-07-12T12:23:31.477" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16716" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16721" CreationDate="2021-07-12T12:27:33.367" Score="1" ViewCount="1582" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found my Ender 3 was skipping extruder steps a lot, mainly while printing infill (tri-hex at 30%), to the point I saw several layers of infill with spotty extrusion or nothing adhered at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I pulled the filament, I had to use pliers to get enough grip to back it out of the hot end.&#xA;I disassembled the hot end and found melted filament in the end of the Bowden tube, though I'm not sure that indicates heat creep, because I had to dismount the fan in order to reach the heat block and nozzle with the wrenches, and then preheat to get the nozzle out (meaning the heat sink got a lot hotter than it normally would with the constant blast of its fan).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since the nozzle was full of melted plastic as well, I simply replaced it, made sure the heat break was clear by pushing the Bowden tube through it (and removed all melted plastic from the end of the Bowden tube), then reassembled the hot end with a brand new 0.4 mm nozzle.  I then started a new print, gratified initially by the clean, even extrusion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Until it stopped printing infill about 10 layers into the print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At that point, I simply aborted the print and turned everything off, as I didn't have time to deal with another disassembly cycle (Sunday evening and had to be up early for work today).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What should I look for in trying to troubleshoot this issue with the nozzle or hot end clogging repeatedly?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm printing Amazon Basics PLA, a spool that was purchased the first week in May but only unsealed two days ago; my nozzle is set to 200 °C and the coated glass bed (now using a glue stick wash for adhesion assistance) at 55 °C.  My nozzle clearance is set by homing, jogging the Z axis up by 0.075 mm, and leveling snug on a 0.08 mm feeler gauge (set so I can barely push the feeler under the nozzle and have palpable drag when in place, done with bed and nozzle preheated); this should give clearance between 0 and .005 mm.  My first layer (standard 0.2 mm thickness) was perfect, no extruder step skipping and nice, even line width; this problem started only when the machine began to print infill -- infill prints faster than walls and top/bottom, but I'm not sure this is related to that, as I could see skipping on the walls on the second or third infill layer.  This part was printing with 3 line walls and 30% tri-hex infill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Bowden tube was replaced when I installed a new hot end two weeks and ten or so prints ago (which included a new nozzle, the same one that I was using until yesterday); I made the cut in the PTFE with a tubing cutter (the kind with a wheel that revolves around the tube), so I'm confident it's square, and I ensured the tubing was butted firmly on the nozzle and the lock ring installed on the push-in coupler.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28508" LastActivityDate="2021-07-13T09:03:37.450" Title="What makes a new nozzle clog before I can finish the print?" Tags="|creality-ender-3|extrusion|heat-creep|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16717" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16689" CreationDate="2021-07-12T14:11:06.530" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;How about using thermally insulating transparent silicone rubber sheets?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15075" LastActivityDate="2021-07-12T14:11:06.530" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16718" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16720" CreationDate="2021-07-12T15:50:29.277" Score="3" ViewCount="1442" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some people have figured out how to take raw LiDAR data and after going through multiple steps (using LAS tools, converting to digital elevation model (DEM), converting to an STL) getting an STL file that they can then slice and print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could you write a program that cuts out all of those intermediate steps and converts raw LiDAR data directly to an STL that can be printed? Could you even cut out the need for slicers and just go straight to a G-code file?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this even possible?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From &lt;a href=&quot;https://research.umn.edu/units/uspatial/news/3d-printing-models-derived-lidar-data&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;3D Printing Models derived from Lidar Data&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Retrieve Lidar Data&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Process Lidar Data&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Create a DSM&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Export the DSM into a .STL&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Process for 3D Printing&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;3D Print!&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="29159" LastEditorUserId="29314" LastEditDate="2021-07-13T11:48:38.273" LastActivityDate="2021-07-13T14:21:37.027" Title="Building a program to convert LiDAR data directly to an STL or directly to G-code" Tags="|g-code|stl|scanning|file-formats|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16719" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16709" CreationDate="2021-07-12T16:10:23.027" Score="1" Body="&lt;h1 id=&quot;you-can-fix-this-wwi5&quot;&gt;You can fix this.&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The current switching portion of the driver appears fine, as does the motor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2 id=&quot;first-check-the-improbable-but-easy-to-fix-b1gx&quot;&gt;First check the improbable, but easy to fix&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although I think it is unlikely, something could have been changed in your configuration file.  It would be work a quick glance to see if there has been any obvious damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2 id=&quot;it-is-probably-a-board-level-not-chip-level-problem-zgya&quot;&gt;It is probably a board-level (not chip level) problem&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming the configuration is good, it is likely that there has been a (repairable) failure on the controller printed wiring board.  This could be the driver chip, pull-up resistors, traces, or (perhaps most likely) solder joints.  Given failure rates of working boards, the solder joints may be the most likely culprit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2 id=&quot;this-is-my-reasoning-4aob&quot;&gt;This is my reasoning:&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The driver chip is a DRV8825.  This is a &amp;quot;step and direction&amp;quot; driver chip, where the controller pulses inputs to the driver to change the position by a fixed rotation.  The DRV8825 has three input pins that define the degree of micro-stepping.  These pins are named &lt;code&gt;MODE0&lt;/code&gt;, &lt;code&gt;MODE1&lt;/code&gt;, and &lt;code&gt;MODE2&lt;/code&gt; on the schematic, and change the operation from full step, one-quarter step, one-eighth step, one-sixteenth step, and one-thirty-second step.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If there is a problem with these pins, or with the solder connections on the parts which connect with them, the motor speed will be wrong, probably by a factor of some power of two.  For reference, here is a link to the datasheet for the driver chip:  &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.ti.com/lit/ds/symlink/drv8825.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;DRV8825 datasheet.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Defects in the power driver transistors cause other effects, such as no motion, jiggling, buzzing, or even reversing the direction.  Since this is not the problem you are having I think the power driver transistors are OK.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A problem with the &lt;code&gt;MODE&lt;/code&gt; pins would cause the size of the rotational step to be wrong, which would affect the rotation speed, which is the problem you have.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could probe those pins with the power on, looking for the voltage.  Since this is a Delta machine, the three X, Y, and Z drivers should be symmetrical.  Each of the inputs should be close to 0 V or close to 3.3 V.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the corresponding pins are the X, Y, and Z axes are the same, then the problem is probably in the driver chip, which would require replacing the surface mount component.  Here is a link to the electronics distributor DigiKey where individual driver chips are available:  &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.digikey.com/en/products/filter/pmic-motor-drivers-controllers/744?s=N4IgTCBcDaICICUBqAOFYCsIC6BfIA&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;DigiKey link for DRV8825.&lt;/a&gt;  If the voltages are different, try re-melting the solder on all of the pins on the circuit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[Note, I can't tell without the schematic of the board, but the 3.3 V output pin from the DRC8825 could also be poorly soldered, so check pin 15 (&lt;code&gt;V3P3OUT&lt;/code&gt;) also.]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2 id=&quot;good-luck-ylaj&quot;&gt;Good luck!&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Delta machines are wonderful, and the symmetry serves you well to help diagnose this problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2082" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2021-07-13T02:20:32.477" LastActivityDate="2021-07-13T02:20:32.477" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16720" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16718" CreationDate="2021-07-13T04:03:50.957" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;TL;DR - The problem would &lt;em&gt;appear&lt;/em&gt; to be that some of the steps require a bit of manual tinkering in order to complete them successfully - it isn't just a simple question of conversion. So, no (not currently).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Also, whilst writing this answer, it dawned on me that unless someone has actually managed to automate the whole process already, then your question may merely invite opinions (rather than factual solutions).&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the link that you provided the conversion stages seem to be:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Obtain the &lt;code&gt;LAZ&lt;/code&gt; file from LiDAR&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;code&gt;LAZ&lt;/code&gt; to &lt;code&gt;LAS&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;code&gt;LAS&lt;/code&gt; to &lt;code&gt;DSM&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;code&gt;DSM&lt;/code&gt; to &lt;code&gt;STL&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;code&gt;STL&lt;/code&gt; to G-code&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These stages would need to be put into an automated pipeline.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3 id=&quot;step-1-3t5u&quot;&gt;Step 1&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This step could be automated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3 id=&quot;step-2-c1ql&quot;&gt;Step 2&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The LAZ to LAS seems to be a straightforward conversion using  command line tools &lt;code&gt;las2las&lt;/code&gt;, &lt;code&gt;lasview&lt;/code&gt; and &lt;code&gt;las2dem&lt;/code&gt;. This step &lt;em&gt;probably&lt;/em&gt; could be automated (assuming that no manual intervention of the settings ​is required), as command line interfaces are easy to script (when compared with a GUI).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3 id=&quot;step-3-bjn5&quot;&gt;Step 3&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This step uses one of three GUI applications and looks like some manual labour (like adjusting settings) &lt;em&gt;may&lt;/em&gt; be required, it is not clear. If the applications suggested by the article have APIs then a CLI option of automating the process could be possible - again it is not clear just by reading the article.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3 id=&quot;step-4-bqet&quot;&gt;Step 4&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This step again uses a GUI (possibly to employ the export plugin and certainly to visualise the results) and so would appear to need some settings modifications and reiteration, to quote:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;the conversion settings are something that will have to be explored via trial and error in order to figure out what is right for your dataset. In order to visualize the differences between the different settings you will have to open the .STL file into a software designed for 3D Printing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3 id=&quot;step-5-pwke&quot;&gt;Step 5&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While the use of a slicer &lt;em&gt;can&lt;/em&gt; be automated (assuming that you have predefined (known parameters) thresholds), it usually requires some manual intervention (at least to begin with). If you google &amp;quot;automate slicing&amp;quot; then some interesting links appear, but usually they are for batch processing of similar objects/models.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3 id=&quot;summary-3bxj&quot;&gt;Summary&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The language used in the steps above contains a lot of conditionals (may, can, could) because there are a lot of variables involved. A substantial amount of research would be required to get these elements of the pipeline to work together seamlessly. So, it is unlikely that a &amp;quot;point and click&amp;quot; solution exists where an STL file would just pop out at the end, with no manual intervention.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, if your LiDAR datasets were consistent (i.e. similar environments, similar objects being scanned) then you &lt;em&gt;may&lt;/em&gt; be able to find a range of settings, for each stage, that work consistently well for a particular scenario. Then with these settings - in combination with some command line or Python scripting and/or an appropriate GUI scripting tool - you might be able to automate some, if not all, of the process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looking even further ahead, by using &lt;em&gt;Machine Learning&lt;/em&gt; you may be able to train a model to learn to examine the visual feedback stages and then auto-tinker with the settings in order to get better results - however, whilst not in the realms of impossibility, it certainly is rather cutting edge (at this point in time). In a few years time though, it almost certainly will be possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4762" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2021-07-13T13:59:05.427" LastActivityDate="2021-07-13T13:59:05.427" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16721" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16716" CreationDate="2021-07-13T09:03:37.450" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I sounds like you are on the edge of almost heat creep if you start printing before the extruder cools off.  See if letting the extruder cool down to near room temperature solves the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15075" LastActivityDate="2021-07-13T09:03:37.450" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16722" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-07-13T10:51:07.273" Score="3" ViewCount="10847" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am currently in the look for a 3D printer and one major issue I find it the fumes/VOCs that printing can emit. I am not planning to do ABS or similar but I've read from studies that PLA also may emit VOCs. I live in an apartment and I plan to put the printer in my office, in which I work remotely, so I spend 8+ hours per day in that room. Additionally, I'm not looking to print huge volumes, I'd rather say probably 1-2 prints per month or so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, through my research I found that it's better to go with an FDM printer rather resin, as the latter not only stinks (and fumes are dangerous) but also is quite overwhelming for a beginner.&#xA;Cool, then I was looking for FDM printers with enclosure (e.g. Qidi maker or da Vinci) and others without (e.g. Creality Ender 3 V2 or Prusa).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's start with the enclosed printers. So, most of them advertise that they have filters on their vents but from some quick research I see lots of people complain that these are useless. In some cases some have printed an adaptor, placed it on the fan's place and use an air hose to direct the fumes outside, to a window for example. That is fine, requires some bit of work but I guess it will keep most dangerous particles away.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For enclosureless 3d printers like Ender V2, I noticed that I can buy an enclosure, like the ones that Creality advertises as fireproof. Or still I could DIY one via IKEA parts. I thought that I could enclose my printer there when I needed to print something, seal it and when done, just put it in the balcony to rest, by opening the enclosure there for the VOCs to come out and disperse in the environment. Would that work? Would that enclosure keep the VOCs from contaminating my room? Does anybody tried something similar? Would that be practical?&#xA;Would that affect the printing quality?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So in the end the question is: should I rely on an enclosure without ventilation and then put it on the balcony to rest and release the fumes?&#xA;Or should I build a DIY air filtering system to redirect the fumes outside through my window?&#xA;Which one would keep away those VOCs?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="29311" LastActivityDate="2021-09-13T23:32:38.317" Title="Is enclosure without ventilation enough to keep VOC's and printer fumes from leaking into my room?" Tags="|creality-ender-3|pla|prusa-i3|enclosure|ventilation|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16723" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4822" CreationDate="2021-07-13T11:16:43.897" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;From the &lt;code&gt;help&lt;/code&gt; for input plugin &amp;quot;&lt;strong&gt;raspicam&lt;/strong&gt;&amp;quot;, the following parameters can be passed to this plugin:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;[-fps | --framerate]...: set video framerate, default 5 frame/sec&#xA;[-x | --width ]........: width of frame capture, default 640&#xA;[-y | --height]........: height of frame capture, default 480&#xA;[-quality].............: set JPEG quality 0-100, default 85&#xA;[-usestills]...........: uses stills mode instead of video mode&#xA;[-preview].............: Enable full screen preview&#xA;[-timestamp]...........: Get timestamp for each frame&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;-sh : Set image sharpness (-100 to 100)&#xA;-co : Set image contrast (-100 to 100)&#xA;-br : Set image brightness (0 to 100)&#xA;-sa : Set image saturation (-100 to 100)&#xA;-ISO : Set capture ISO&#xA;-vs : Turn on video stablisation&#xA;-ev : Set EV compensation&#xA;-ex : Set exposure mode (see raspistill notes)&#xA;-awb : Set AWB mode (see raspistill notes)&#xA;-ifx : Set image effect (see raspistill notes)&#xA;-cfx : Set colour effect (U:V)&#xA;-mm : Set metering mode (see raspistill notes)&#xA;-rot : Set image rotation (0-359)&#xA;-stats : Compute image stats for each picture (reduces noise for -usestills)&#xA;-drc : Dynamic range compensation level (see raspistill notes)&#xA;-hf : Set horizontal flip&#xA;-vf : Set vertical flip&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;strong&gt;-rot&lt;/strong&gt; parameter can rotate the image.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="29312" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-07-13T11:59:10.190" LastActivityDate="2021-07-13T11:59:10.190" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16724" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16722" CreationDate="2021-07-13T11:52:41.270" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The VOC issue is overblown. Unless you print constantly, you don't need any air treatment. Often that kind of treatment is installed by people who like DIY for the fun of it, not because it's really needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S0360132319304196&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Characterization of volatile organic compound emissions from consumer level material extrusion 3D printers&lt;/a&gt; shows that dangerous chemicals may, in some cases without ventilation, exceed some of the limit concentration, but not much. So, in general, nothing goes significantly above the allowed concentrations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With less than 2-3 prints a day the natural ventilation of the room (which you need anyway if you work there) is enough to keep VOC to a safe level (unless you watch the whole print with the nose at few cm from it).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to be extra safe, use one of those flexible enclosures around the printer. It won't be super good for PLA (it gets warm inside and PLA should not be printed in a hot environment) but it will contain the VOC. When the print is done, or simply when you finish work, remove the enclosure, open slightly the window and come back in an hour or so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's more than enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to filter for the fun of it, buy a HEPA filter and put an activated carbon filter after it, plus the fans to push the air through these two filters. But then you won't be in the room to work due to the noise, so I'm not sure you gained anything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2338" LastActivityDate="2021-07-13T11:52:41.270" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16725" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16726" CreationDate="2021-07-13T13:15:20.677" Score="2" ViewCount="2669" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Prusa i3 MK3 or maybe it was upgraded to a i3 MK3S.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I figure out?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;https://shop.prusa3d.com/en/original-prusa-i3-mk3s/1390-original-prusa-i3-mk3-to-mk3s-upgrade-kit.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;description of the upgrade kit&lt;/a&gt; talks about&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the SuperPINDA (how is it different from the old one?)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a number of small changes (which?)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;improved plastic parts (which parts, how are they different?)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;metal clips (where to look for them?)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a number of minor changes to the extruder plastic parts (which ones, before and after?)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd like to figure that out without taking the printer apart.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1570" LastEditorUserId="1570" LastEditDate="2021-07-13T13:21:22.943" LastActivityDate="2023-03-18T20:38:26.717" Title="Distinguish i3 MK3 from i3 MK3S" Tags="|prusa-i3|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16726" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16725" CreationDate="2021-07-13T14:02:42.963" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1ldX4.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1ldX4.png&quot; alt=&quot;Left right&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TtrmF.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TtrmF.png&quot; alt=&quot;Filament sensors&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The MK3 has 4 pins on the filament sensor, the MK3S has only 3 pins. While you need to take the extruder apart to see that, you can also have a look at the cable instead:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5C6JE.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5C6JE.png&quot; alt=&quot;Filament sensor cable&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Matching the sensor, the MK3 has a 4 strand wire including blue and the MK3S has a 3 strand cable without blue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nuCqp.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nuCqp.png&quot; alt=&quot;Bearing clips&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looking under the heatbed, you'll find the MK3 bearings are fixed with U-bolts while the MK3S has broader bearing clips.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1570" LastActivityDate="2021-07-13T14:02:42.963" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16727" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16722" CreationDate="2021-07-13T14:16:04.713" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;For some filament materials an enclosure without ventilation is too warm.  You could run a hose to the outside like a cloths dryer uses and use a fan to blow the air out through it.  Then, a filtering system is unnecessary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My understanding is a resin printing system is more complex to maintain.  You probably would only want to go that direction if you needed the special characteristics of those systems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you expose your printer to the variations in seasonal temperatures, you may need to adjust your printer parameters based on the different temperatures during printing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15075" LastEditorUserId="15075" LastEditDate="2021-07-13T14:41:57.677" LastActivityDate="2021-07-13T14:41:57.677" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16728" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16718" CreationDate="2021-07-13T14:21:37.027" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The answer is highly depending on the programming skills of the programmer, but in theory, if all pieces of software exist, they can either be tied together in a workflow process (automated) or directly programmed into a new tool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2021-07-13T14:21:37.027" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16729" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16745" CreationDate="2021-07-13T18:03:08.173" Score="1" ViewCount="138" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a &amp;quot;classic&amp;quot; home built 3D printer, Arduino Mega, RAMPS 1.4 with Marlin 2.0.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It worked, was put in storage, and now I am trying to get it running again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;During all of the testing phases, the PID autotune, etc., the temperature of the hotend is stable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When printing, for a few layers (4-5), the temperature is OK, despite the part fan coming on and off. However, after 3-4 mm of printing the temperature just rises and rises and rises, and after 275 °C thermal protection kicks in...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;MOSFETs have additional cooling and a fan over them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm out of ideas... Help!!!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My config files and G-code are &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/hergiz/singles&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using PrusaSlicer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why do I see a temperature rise on the display? Last time I unplugged the printer and left it on USB power then gave it power again. During USB power temperature was steadily going down, as soon I plugged the main cable it resumed printing and the temperature rising again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did another test. 20mm above bed started printing, and got same result. I captured on video entire process &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5_1puCo07to&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Hot end to orbit&lt;/a&gt;. Around 2 min 30 sec the show begins.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="29321" LastEditorUserId="29321" LastEditDate="2021-07-15T03:40:34.140" LastActivityDate="2021-07-17T00:46:35.210" Title="Hotend temperature goes to infinity after few layers" Tags="|marlin|hotend|ramps-1.4|reprap|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="12" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16730" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-07-14T03:45:17.443" Score="0" ViewCount="266" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm at a loss I have no idea what to do, I've tried everything I can think of. I've fixed my x-axis gantry, added silicon bed mounts, used washers, straightened out my BLTouch but still this is the result when I create a mesh:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jToFE.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;The result&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jToFE.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;The result&quot; title=&quot;The result&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did recently order the solid bed mounts from TH3D, could the silicon ones I got on Amazon be the issue? Also I’m using Octoprint bed level visualizer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="29326" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2021-07-14T04:40:21.963" LastActivityDate="2021-07-14T04:40:21.963" Title="Ender 3 V2 bed slanted" Tags="|creality-ender-3|octoprint|creality|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16732" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16729" CreationDate="2021-07-14T14:59:05.940" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sounds like you have a short in your sensor or sensor circuitry.  However, if this is the case the sensed temperature is higher than the actual hotend temperature.  Does your hot end go cold when the sensed temperature takes off?  A short could also show the hotend temperature going up at an unrealistically fast rate.  This doesn't seem to be your case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15075" LastEditorUserId="15075" LastEditDate="2021-07-14T15:54:39.580" LastActivityDate="2021-07-14T15:54:39.580" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16733" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-07-14T16:58:33.417" Score="1" ViewCount="24" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to simulate the 3D scanning process with a specific wavelength and swath width of the beam, etc. and then reproduce the image, the whole of which in MATLAB. I also want to simulate the flow of filler material through the extruder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I refer to any articles or formulae?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="29338" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2021-07-15T03:09:16.520" LastActivityDate="2021-07-15T03:09:16.520" Title="Any method that I can refer to simulate 3D scanning and flow through extruder in MATLAB?" Tags="|nozzle|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16734" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12087" CreationDate="2021-07-15T04:20:00.400" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've implemented a closed-loop system about 25 years ago on an 8 x 32 erosion table scanning it at one cm resolution using laser triangulation. It took 120 hours to scan the surface. Most of the time was spent waiting seven seconds for the system to stop shaking. I put shaft encoders on the X, Y, &amp;amp; Z shafts, not the stepper motors. I wanted to sure I got the movement of the camera.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the end, I settled on moving to a goal with a 1/10 mm tolerance and added any error into the move to the next goal. There was a sphere of confusion of the location of the camera of more than 2/10 mm. Moving back and forth to make up for a missed step at the cost of nearly 10 seconds a move could add days to a run. We were well past the end of the table's life.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="29345" LastActivityDate="2021-07-15T04:20:00.400" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16735" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-07-15T13:37:41.257" Score="0" ViewCount="577" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just got a new printer (first time setting it up myself).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While trying to level it, it appeared that the left side was higher than the right on the Z-axis. When the nozzle moves left, it digs into the platform. I checked the Z-stop sensor on the right side and it appears that when the screw hits it, the motor doesn't stop like it's supposed to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After a few tries, the screw has managed to push the lever out to the side. I'm not great with tech, anyone have suggestions?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="29349" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2021-07-16T04:42:30.410" LastActivityDate="2021-07-16T04:42:30.410" Title="Anycubic Mega X slanted Z-axis" Tags="|z-axis|anycubic-i3-mega|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16736" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16803" CreationDate="2021-07-15T15:27:46.573" Score="2" ViewCount="6339" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have tried to print &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2014307&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Baby Groot&lt;/a&gt; , but every time I print the head, there are always layer shifts like the photos below. I have printed three heads and the layer shifts happened all in the same place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6WAAn.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6WAAn.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/denTU.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/denTU.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried to print something else that is the (more or less) same height and the layer shifting also happened.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/W3E96.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/W3E96.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was thinking maybe because z-rod bent. But apparently the layer shift happened in different height.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yBkjJ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yBkjJ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is my problem and how to solve this  ? I am using Ender 3 with BLTouch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="29175" LastActivityDate="2021-07-27T11:57:45.280" Title="Layer Shifting When Printing Tall Prints (Consistent Per-Model)" Tags="|creality-ender-3|prusaslicer|layer-shifting|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16737" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16736" CreationDate="2021-07-15T15:50:53.290" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Layer shifting has two basic causes: the partially printed part moves or flexes, or the bed or Y carriage (almost always -- they seem rather uncommon on the X axis) skips one or more steps in one direction or the other.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Permanent layer shifts -- that is, where the entire print above the shift is and remains shifted -- are more likely to be the latter; temporary shifts (where the shift creates a bulge or groove, and then layers above that section are back in line with those below) are more likely due to part movement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In your case, you appear to have temporary shifts.  Those on the Groot head seem (in the photos) to line up with heights at which some of the peaks on the head end; they might be a result of changes in the nozzle interaction with a print that's becoming tall enough to flex as the path changes due to those sections finishing.  The ones on the pink block look more like temporary overextrusion, but since we can't see the opposite side of whatever that is, I can't say for certain that they aren't the same thing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One thing you might try is reslicing both of those objects with Z-hop enabled.  That will reduce nozzle dragging over earlier parts of the current layer, which can flex the part (or temporarily block the nozzle, causing pressure buildup that will lead to momentary overextrusion).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To save time, you might look for whether you have any objects that exhibit this without as many hours of printing time (and tens of grams of filament) already spent -- perhaps you can sink Groot into the virtual bed in your slicer, so as to print him only from the eyes up (or even higher) -- though that might reduce flex enough that finishing the peaks on his head won't result in a significant change.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28508" LastActivityDate="2021-07-15T15:50:53.290" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16738" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16736" CreationDate="2021-07-15T17:15:23.760" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Zeiss Ikon's answer is good - but just in case that doesn't solve it, have you printed larger / longer prints before? There's a well known problem with the Ender 3's 4.2.2 motherboard that causes layer shifts as it overheats on longer prints. You can try elevating the printer and putting a fan underneath to see if that changes anything. (I had that problem and it drove me nuts until I got a 4.2.7 motherboard)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.reddit.com/r/ender3v2/comments/lmf1v2/an_faq_on_layer_shifts_and_mainboards/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.reddit.com/r/ender3v2/comments/lmf1v2/an_faq_on_layer_shifts_and_mainboards/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.reddit.com/r/ender3v2/comments/kn8u72/layer_shift_investigation_data_and_video/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.reddit.com/r/ender3v2/comments/kn8u72/layer_shift_investigation_data_and_video/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.reddit.com/r/ender3v2/comments/kxeikz/as_promised_thermal_camera_captures_of_a_layer/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.reddit.com/r/ender3v2/comments/kxeikz/as_promised_thermal_camera_captures_of_a_layer/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I do see some other layer issues on the head further down the print. I would probably loosen and readjust all the gantries again, check all the belt tensions, do another bed level (you changed out the stock springs with the yellow ones right?). After hours of use, not uncommon for there to be a hiccup, maybe a piece of plastic / dust stuck in a track.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you've double checked and adjusted all the gantry's and none are loose or too tight, look at your table the printer sits on. If possible, put the printer on something really heavy (slab of concrete, thick wood) with a little padding underneath that heavy surface. Put a half glass of water on the top most surface (not on the printer) to see if the table is vibrating while printing (water should be still the entire time). It could be the table is moving a little as the printer is printing - with fractions of mm's it doesn't take too much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25747" LastActivityDate="2021-07-15T17:15:23.760" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16739" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16736" CreationDate="2021-07-15T20:45:55.950" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;These are (at least almost certainly) not layer shifts. A layer shift is when the physical toolhead position becomes inconsistent with the logical one because a stepper motor missed a step or the bed surface shifted or something else went wrong. It's possible for them to reverse if the same happens in the opposite direction at a later layer, but very unlikely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What you have seems to be geometry-dependent inconsistent extrusion. If you look at the slicer output in an analyzer, you probably have some geometry difference in terms of number of components, travel moves needed, etc. at the affected layers, causing more or less material to be oozed/lost in the model's interior, thereby producing more of less extrusion thickness in the walls that follow, relative to other layers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While there are probably other ways to reduce the impact, the right way to fix this is find the cause of the oozing and stop it. It's almost surely unretracted travel moves inside the model interior, which Cura calls &amp;quot;combing&amp;quot;; I don't know the Prusaslicer terminology for it. You can either turn it off (which will make your print a lot slower and might harm quality in some ways) or set &amp;quot;Max Comb Distance With No Retract&amp;quot; to something very small, like 1 mm. This will create a lot of additional retractions, and you need to make sure your retraction settings are right (in terms of distance and speed) not to make the problem worse - you can also ooze material while waiting around for a slow retraction to happen. Doing a retraction tuning tower can help you get them right if you don't have them right already. On an Ender 3 you should be able to set the retraction (and unretraction) speed to at least 100 mm/s, with distance somewhere around 4.0-6.5.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For readers using Cura, also be sure to set the &amp;quot;Minimum Extrusion Distance Window&amp;quot; option to 0. Otherwise Cura will start skipping retractions again once there are too many of them, which will bring the problem right back, possibly far worse since it might skip them even in the places they matter most. I don't think Prusaslicer has such a problem but I'm not sure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2021-07-15T20:45:55.950" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16741" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-07-16T14:46:18.590" Score="5" ViewCount="2085" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recall seeing that it's possible to &amp;quot;bake&amp;quot; or &amp;quot;anneal&amp;quot; or even &amp;quot;remelt&amp;quot; PLA prints to strengthen them.  As I understand it, the main effect is improving layer adhesion, which is the main source of weakness in tension in the original Z-axis direction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, I can print with a hotter nozzle (up to a point) to increase layer adhesion, print with a larger nozzle orifice, print with increased layer height, print slower -- but at a minimum those require reslicing, and affect print appearance (hotter nozzle causes stringing, thicker layers are more visible, etc.).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Baking a print does none of that, as long as it's supported (often done by bedding it in salt).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Question is, how hot?&lt;/strong&gt;  I presume I don't want to go all the way to printing temperature of 180-220 °C, but the plastic transition level of roundly 50 °C isn't hot enough for this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28508" LastActivityDate="2021-07-16T19:57:42.600" Title="What temperature should I bake PLA prints at to increase strength?" Tags="|pla|post-processing|temperature|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16742" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16741" CreationDate="2021-07-16T16:24:31.357" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've only annealed PEEK personally, but a quick search returns varying recommendations:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://all3dp.com/2/annealing-pla-prints-for-strength-easy-ways/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;All3DP&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;recommends 1 hour at 70 °C.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://x3d.com.au/blogs/tips-and-tricks/pla-baking-the-secret-to-a-stronger-and-more-rigid-pla&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;X3D&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;recommends 1 hour at 110 °C.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.matterhackers.com/articles/how-to-anneal-tough-pla-and-htpla&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Matterhackers&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;recommends 10 minutes at 105 °C for Tough PLA or HTPLA.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;A post on&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/comments/3a1qdy/baking_filament/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Reddit&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;recommends &amp;quot;a few hours&amp;quot; at 110 °C.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd do a test suite with pieces at 70 °, 90 °, and 110 °C for an hour each and test/compare.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Be mindful of any chemicals that might be released.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4922" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-07-16T18:05:44.323" LastActivityDate="2021-07-16T18:05:44.323" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16743" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16570" CreationDate="2021-07-16T17:18:17.253" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;My first thought is heat creep.  I've never seen a heatsink on the hot-end that couldn't use more air and a lower temperature.  IF not heat creep, then perahps under-temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But, since you've worked on this issue without success, and the extruder skipping happens even wit a steady flow and no backpressure against the bed or part, perhaps we should look elsewhere.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First thing to check would be the friction of the filament through the Bowden tube, and the attachment points.  First, I would back off the extruder pressure, remove the nozzle, and see if you can easily and without jerks or hangups slide fresh filament past the extruder gears all the way through the hot end and out where the nozzle would be.  You'll be doing this cold with the printer off.  That should feel slick and easy.  If you need to push with any significant force, find where the friction is happening and fix it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it flow smoothly, try checking the extruder motor, the extruder gear, and if it is a dual gear system, check both of them.  Try running the extruder (you'll need to hear the hot end) with no filament.  Does everything turn easily?  Try inserting filament in the extruder, pulling back on the filament, and extruding forward.  Is the motion smooth?  If not, check the gearing to see if a piece of filament or anything else if interfering with the motion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can check the motor current, see if it is running to spec on both coils, in all directions.  You could have a problem with one half of one H-bridge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have two extruders, does the problem happen with both, or only one?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would still mostly suspect that heat creep, or under-temperature.  195 °C may be a little cool.  My Prusa prints PLA at 215 °C.  I have had heat creep problems with the Prusa, which I addressed by directing more air through the heat sink fins -- too much was passing around the sides of the heat sink without actually cooling it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2082" LastActivityDate="2021-07-16T17:18:17.253" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16744" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16741" CreationDate="2021-07-16T19:57:42.600" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCiczXOhGpvoQGhOL16EZiTg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;CNC Kitchen&lt;/a&gt; has a series of videos covering research on this topic, ending up with &lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/DyAKtS1b3SQ?start=0&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt; using salt. The oven temperature used for PLA was 200˚C reaching 190˚C at the core of the salt. Lower temperatures (especially without support) are of much more questionable value.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From my experience, I believe that similar results might be achievable just by improving the printing process, without any annealing. This is because a lot of the weakness along layer lines seems to be caused by inconsistent extrusion (largely due to oozing in the model interior) and marring of the layer by combing travel over it before the next layer can be laid. With these issues solved, my prints got a lot stronger. So if your goal is just to fix a practical part strength problem, it may be worthwhile to see if you can improve things here before trying an elaborate annealing process (which necessarily requires 100% infill as well as a lot of messy postprocessing work).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2021-07-16T19:57:42.600" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16745" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16729" CreationDate="2021-07-16T22:49:48.560" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;So, the problem is in fact of a hardware nature. By replacing RAMPS 1.4, the problem went away.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Arduino, firmware, G-code... everything is the same, only RAMPS was replaced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm going to find a suitable MOSFET replacement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="29321" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2021-07-17T00:46:35.210" LastActivityDate="2021-07-17T00:46:35.210" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16746" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16511" CreationDate="2021-07-17T01:02:05.170" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The layer adhesion with Polymax PETG at 260 °C was great so I didn't go any higher.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28896" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-07-17T02:41:30.163" LastActivityDate="2021-07-17T02:41:30.163" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16747" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-07-17T01:23:10.223" Score="1" ViewCount="346" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently started printing Polymaker's PC-ABS blend on my modified Ender 3 v2. The print quality is good but the layer adhesion is pretty bad.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The layers aren't delaminating while printing but I can snap the chimney off of Benchys just with my fingers. Print quality and layer adhesion are the same on Benchys with and without an enclosure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My enclosure gets to around 65 °C air temperature, but Polymaker recommends 90 °C. I doubt my Ender would function at those temperatures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cura settings are as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;270 °C 0.4 mm brass nozzle&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;105 °C bed&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;0.2 mm layer height&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;0.4 mm line width&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;combing off&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;cooling off&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;15s minimum layer time&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lift Head on&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;4 mm retraction at 33 mm/s&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;30-22.5 mm/s print speed&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;3 walls&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;5 top and bottom layers&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;20 % lines infill&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have already tried a wider line width, and I don't think going any hotter or slower would help. What could I try in order to improve the layer adhesion?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28896" LastEditorUserId="28896" LastEditDate="2021-07-18T04:36:57.840" LastActivityDate="2021-07-19T08:43:24.750" Title="PC-ABS poor layer adhesion" Tags="|creality-ender-3|adhesion|print-material|abs|print-strength|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16748" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3598" CreationDate="2021-07-17T01:32:22.347" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;TL;DR&lt;/strong&gt; - No... well, yes you &lt;em&gt;can&lt;/em&gt;, but it won't decompose in your lifetime.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Addressing this question fully - from the point of composting, rather than landfill:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;From &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Polylactic_acid&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Wikipedia - PLA&lt;/a&gt; - &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Polylactic_acid#End_of_life&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;End of life&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Composting&lt;/strong&gt;: PLA is biodegradable under industrial composting conditions, starting with chemical hydrolysis process, followed by microbial digestion, to ultimately degrade the PLA. Under industrial composting conditions (58 °C), PLA can partly (about half) decompose into water and carbon dioxide in 60 days, after which the remainder decomposes much more slowly, with the rate depending on the material's degree of crystallinity. Environments without the necessary conditions will see very slow decomposition akin to that of non-bioplastics, not fully decomposing for hundreds or thousands of years.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;According to &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.3dnatives.com/en/pla-filament-230720194/#!&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Is PLA filament actually biodegradable?&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It takes 80 years to biodegrade naturally. Although, how they actually know that for sure, seeing as PLA (for 3D Printing at least) hasn't been around for 80 years yet, is unclear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition, PLA can only be recycled at plants that have separate facilities that deal with PLA (as bio-plastics interfere with the recycling of other plastics if combined), and (as an aside) the fumes from PLA are not as harmless as many people think, due to the (up to 40%) additives.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, PLA is not such a &amp;quot;happy&amp;quot; plastic as many people are led to believe by the marketing folks...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4762" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2021-07-17T01:46:41.300" LastActivityDate="2021-07-17T01:46:41.300" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16749" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3786" CreationDate="2021-07-17T02:13:05.653" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;These are more like backups for when the part gets stuck, but you could try spraying that part where it meets the bed with liquid computer duster. The shrinkage from cooling usually helps to release the part from the bed. You could also try heating the bed very hot to save the bed at the expense of the part.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28896" LastActivityDate="2021-07-17T02:13:05.653" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16750" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16774" CreationDate="2021-07-17T14:12:07.403" Score="2" ViewCount="113" Body="&lt;p&gt;I’ve been using Thingiverse pretty heavily since I started printing, and I frequently come across the same text block in unrelated models. Am I missing the joke or a hidden meaning in the frequent reuse of the following content?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Designed up this dealer button to use in home games or have just as something laying around for any poker fan. It was inspired by a dealer button in Pokerstars VR.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Printing:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ring - Infil to add weight, supports needed for spade inset. Letter embossing doesn't need it.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Spade - Infil to add weight, no supports&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Letters - Print flat, already scaled to fit nicely in the embossing&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Star - Infil to add weight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Full print with 4x4x4 walls/top/bottom and 38% infil came to about 48g in weight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Glue in lettering and spade. Star may need minor sanding but should push fit into the space tightly and not need anything else to secure it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is an example of what I mean: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4887617&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Voronoi bear&lt;/a&gt;. Just curious if anyone knows why that’s used as a pseudo default description, or if I should avoid those files for any reason I’m unaware of.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here’s another example: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4871879&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;cats&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28504" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2021-07-20T10:43:43.757" LastActivityDate="2021-07-20T12:41:19.767" Title="Thingiverse dealer button text block" Tags="|thingiverse|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ClosedDate="2021-07-27T05:20:32.463" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16751" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16689" CreationDate="2021-07-17T19:17:13.713" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Never saw double pane windows of houses? Triple panes are not impossible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="29373" LastActivityDate="2021-07-17T19:17:13.713" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16753" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-07-18T03:42:23.563" Score="3" ViewCount="858" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am using SolidEdge to create 3D models in .par files and right now I have over 30 files and I need to create STL files to print them in 3D printer using GrabCad&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a way to convert all those files in one go instead of converting them one by one by exporting them to STL inside SolidEdge&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="29383" LastActivityDate="2024-03-18T02:04:06.367" Title="Converting .par files to STL" Tags="|software|stl|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16754" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-07-18T09:17:41.480" Score="2" ViewCount="494" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am getting layer splits that always happen in the same place like these:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/raz72.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/raz72.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FswDQ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FswDQ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Interestingly enough, when I do multiple prints on one plate, sometimes some prints get split and others don’t. I don’t think this is a slicer settings problem or moist filament because it only ever happens at one specific place. The rest of the printed item(s) is fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also don’t have warping at the edges of the upper split layer that signifies slicer setting problems. Another interesting note is that there seems to be little evenly spaced pulsating dots along each side of the split (might be hard to see in the photos).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have checked the Z-axis for anything that has gone loose, greased the lead screws, adjusted temp, but nothing seems to help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit:&#xA;I recall having similar problems once with Colorfabb Economy PETG on a different printer (Artillery SWX1) but I can only recall it from memory, no physical prints to prove it so it might have been something else.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However that does lead me to think that it may in fact be something with the slicer if it happened on separate printers printing different parts, but maybe not the direct slicer settings, rather the geometry of the model causing it like r.. github said.&#xA;Filament: Inkstation black PLA&#xA;Printer: Creality Ender 3 with added BLTouch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23583" LastEditorUserId="23583" LastEditDate="2021-07-18T21:11:18.020" LastActivityDate="2021-07-18T21:11:18.020" Title="Layer splitting in same place" Tags="|z-axis|adhesion|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16755" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-07-18T12:36:59.243" Score="4" ViewCount="137" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been trying to tune a new filament, on my CR-10 V2, by printing vases, but Cura won't let me print the vases any faster than 10-15 mm/s even when I input all the print speeds to about 65 mm/s. This problem only occurs when I try to print with a single parameter/wall and no matter what I do Cura doesn't print it any faster.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know if there is a feature that forces it to print slower than it's being told to, or if this problem is a result of some kind of protective feature and if it can be overridden?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="29386" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-07-18T13:44:32.867" LastActivityDate="2021-07-18T16:12:57.913" Title="Why is Cura printing vases much slower than the printer can go?" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|slicing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16756" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16755" CreationDate="2021-07-18T16:12:57.913" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Minimum Layer Time. By default it's 5 seconds, and some printer profiles have it much higher, e.g. 10 seconds. This is to allow sufficient time for the previous layer to cool before laying down the next layer, but it's way too high. Make sure you have good cooling (possibly blowing a large room fan on the print volume if needed) and you can turn it down significantly. This is unlikely to work for very tiny details, where 3-4 is about the lowest you can safely go, but in a vase spread out over a large area it should be practical to cool it even with fast printing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2021-07-18T16:12:57.913" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16757" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16754" CreationDate="2021-07-18T17:53:16.723" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;From your description and particularly the photos, the source of your layer splitting is an extrusion problem at the particular location, likely an indirect result of the geometry (making it mostly repeatable when the same geometry is printed again). Some possible causes for this include:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Too much material lost to oozing in model interior just prior to this extrusion, as a result of unretracted travel (combing).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Previous layer marred by unretracted nozzle motion over already-printed material. This tends to make the &amp;quot;pulsating dots&amp;quot; pattern you noted.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Extrusion jam due to heat creep or trying to unretract after the retracted material had too much time to cool due to long/slow travel.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Higher speed being achievable on these layers due to less constraint by acceleration/deceleration, reaching a speed faster than what you can actually extrude with your extruder, hotend, and temperature settings.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would look at the slicing output in your slicer and see if you noticed anything different about the layers where it's happening.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2021-07-18T17:53:16.723" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16758" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16560" CreationDate="2021-07-18T20:15:20.350" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Something in the Ender 3 stock firmware (and even custom Marlin builds) is prone to corrupting SD cards, especially if you've removed and re-inserted them without using the unmount command on the menu first. I never tracked down exactly what it was before switching away from Marlin, but whenever it happened, making a new directory, moving all the files to it, and deleting the old directory seemed to work (assuming you don't keep files in top-level directory) to get it to read them again. When that didn't work, moving them off to the host computer, reformatting the SD card, and moving the files back always worked.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2021-07-18T20:15:20.350" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16759" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-07-19T04:24:40.240" Score="1" ViewCount="85" Body="&lt;p&gt;My Ender 3 was working AMAZING. I decided to buy it a Microswiss All-Metal Hotend. I called the company I bought the printer from, and they sent a technician to install it for me. Once he installed it and left, I started a print on it. The print quality was TERRIBLE. There was stringing everywhere, and the print quality was overall worse. I releveled the bed and tried tuning my slicer settings. I am using PrusaSlicer's default Ender 3 profile with just a few adjustments.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Start G-code&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;G90 ; use absolute coordinates&#xA;M83 ; extruder relative mode&#xA;M104 S[first_layer_temperature] ; set extruder temp&#xA;M140 S[first_layer_bed_temperature] ; set bed temp&#xA;M190 S[first_layer_bed_temperature] ; wait for bed temp&#xA;M109 S[first_layer_temperature] ; wait for extruder temp&#xA;G28 ; home all&#xA;G1 Z2 F240&#xA;G1 X2 Y10 F3000&#xA;G1 Z0.28 F240&#xA;G92 E0&#xA;G1 Y190 E15 F1500 ; intro line&#xA;G1 X2.3 F5000&#xA;G92 E0&#xA;G1 Y10 E15 F1200 ; intro line&#xA;G92 E0&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My retraction settings:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/08BRY.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/08BRY.png&quot; alt=&quot;screenshot of PrusaSlicer's retraction settings&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27363" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-07-19T11:20:03.733" LastActivityDate="2021-07-19T11:20:03.733" Title="Ender 3 Microswiss Print Quality Decrease" Tags="|creality-ender-3|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16760" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16747" CreationDate="2021-07-19T07:33:15.733" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Try using some halogen bulbs (for example car healights) with a heat resistant shiny reflector to increase the temperature of the printed part without having to increase the air temperature. You can easily reach 90 °C with 4 bulbs (one per corner, pointed to the center).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And until you find a good print settings, I would still stick with 110-120% line width.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, there are reports of underestimated printing temperature. If you can, go try 280-290 °C.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2338" LastEditorUserId="2338" LastEditDate="2021-07-19T08:43:24.750" LastActivityDate="2021-07-19T08:43:24.750" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16761" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15888" CreationDate="2021-07-19T10:09:59.143" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was considering buying a Fl3xdrive but had this exact fear, that the speed (rotation) required for retractions was too much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I stumbled upon this post while looking for a project for a step-up gearbox. I found a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3714978&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Nema 17 Gearbox &amp;quot;Pulleybox&amp;quot; Mod for Extruder&lt;/a&gt; on Thingiverse, should be enough to do what you did with your design, I guess.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="29394" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-07-19T11:23:00.610" LastActivityDate="2021-07-19T11:23:00.610" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16762" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-07-19T12:02:19.577" Score="1" ViewCount="2274" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was having heat creep related hot end clogs leading to skipped layers or plain old air printing (with extruder stepper skipping).  Since I'd just received the all metal hot end I ordered a while back (Chinese knock-off, verified 2 mm heat break bore), I installed that and tried a print without changing settings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Amazon Basics PLA, 200 °C at 0.4 mm nozzle, 50 mm/s (which gives walls and first layer at 25 mm/s), and 30% tri-hex infill -- and instead of clogging an hour an a half into the print, the new setup clogged after only about half an hour.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is little retraction in this part -- every layer is continuous (that is, there are no travels between sections, only between infill lines and after layer end, it's a simple extruded shape from the first layer to the last), so I wouldn't expect excessive retraction to be a major issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this likely to be due to printing with the same settings I had for the original hot end?  If so, what should I change (retraction, obviously, but temperature, print speed, etc.?).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: Reinstalling the previous (stock type) hot end after clearing filament material from the heat break has restored normal-seeming operation, at least when starting a print from cold.  Parts are on the way to apply the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3203831&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;PTFE fix&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28508" LastEditorUserId="28508" LastEditDate="2021-07-20T14:42:47.207" LastActivityDate="2021-07-26T11:26:21.853" Title="Ender 3 Upgraded to All Metal Hot End -- Heat Creep?" Tags="|creality-ender-3|all-metal-hotend|heat-creep|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="18" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16764" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15377" CreationDate="2021-07-19T12:51:17.560" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was having the same issue after installing BTT SKR Mini E3 V2 and BLTouch on my Ender 5 Pro.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did two things and my bed heats normally now, but I changed/did both things and can't say which fixed the issue for me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I noticed the case fan wasn't coming on. I had it plugged into &lt;code&gt;Fan 1&lt;/code&gt; on the board. In my Marlin firmware, I noticed in &lt;code&gt;Configuration_adv.h&lt;/code&gt; the &lt;code&gt;USE_CONTROLLER_FAN&lt;/code&gt; was commented out, so I enabled it (removed the '//' in front of &lt;code&gt;#define USE_CONTROLLER_FAN&lt;/code&gt;). After I flashed the firmware with this change, the controller box fan did start kicking on as I'd expect.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I also did PID tuning on the bed. The firmware I'd compiled had the &lt;code&gt;PIDTEMPBED&lt;/code&gt; enabled as I prefer to tune the bed when I do the hotend too. I hadn't yet tuned the bed when I was getting the 10-degree heating failure. My bed was set to 60 °C and it wouldn't heat above 52 °C without giving the &amp;quot;Heating Failed: Bed Printer Halted, Please Reset&amp;quot;. After PID tuning (which I did after the fan firmware change too) the bed heats up to 60 °C and stays there now.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="29395" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-07-19T17:17:59.203" LastActivityDate="2021-07-19T17:17:59.203" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16765" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-07-19T20:43:25.733" Score="5" ViewCount="728" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know that it's said the PLA becomes brittle when kept in a humid environment, but my case is slightly weirder:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have rolls of 1.75 mm PLA that I bought years ago and they are fine. But if I leave my spool fed inside the PTFE (Teflon) tube of my 3D printer, that part that is inside the PTFE tube, and only that part, gets brittle. The filament spool is always (even when stored) in open air.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it still the humidity that somehow is better kept inside the tube, or is there a weird reaction of PLA with PTFE?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5567" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-07-27T15:32:48.343" LastActivityDate="2021-11-29T15:28:34.760" Title="PLA filament becomes brittle inside PTFE tube" Tags="|pla|print-material|ptfe-tube|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16766" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16777" CreationDate="2021-07-19T21:01:33.197" Score="3" ViewCount="4227" Body="&lt;p&gt;A few months ago, I flashed my Ender 3 V2 with &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/Jyers/Marlin&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;JyersUI&lt;/a&gt; fork of the Marlin firmware and I like the options and settings that are available with this firmware. The author has put out another update (v1.3.4) and was curious if all my settings will be erased.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does flashing the firmware erase all settings on the Ender 3 V2? If so, what settings should I record to update the new firmware once installed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23193" LastActivityDate="2021-07-21T20:52:21.267" Title="Does updating the firmware on an Ender 3 V2 erase its previous settings?" Tags="|creality-ender-3|marlin|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16767" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16768" CreationDate="2021-07-19T23:21:24.307" Score="2" ViewCount="145" Body="&lt;p&gt;I’m using the Ender 3 with the Cura slicer and I’ve had success in doing the same print but recently the layers in the middle have smushed out and I don’t know the reason why.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I’ve tried reprinting the piece and the same problem occurs in the same area. I’ve yet to try to let the part finish because I don’t really want to waste filament so whenever I see the problem I stop the print.  I tried reslicing the part but the problem still happens.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here’s the smushed print:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3ToUJ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Image of &amp;quot;smushed&amp;quot; printed model&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3ToUJ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Image of &amp;quot;smushed&amp;quot; printed model&quot; title=&quot;Image of &amp;quot;smushed&amp;quot; printed model&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And here’s what it’s supposed to look like:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Zk0nx.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Image of a properly printed model&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Zk0nx.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Image of a properly printed model&quot; title=&quot;Image of a properly printed model&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: Should also mention that I’m fairly new to 3D printing&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="29401" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2021-07-20T00:22:56.547" LastActivityDate="2021-07-20T00:22:56.547" Title="Layers on printed part have started smushing together mid-print and I don’t know why" Tags="|creality-ender-3|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16768" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16767" CreationDate="2021-07-20T00:13:53.473" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It looks like a problem with the Z axis. It looks like it isn’t lifting the Z as much as it thinks it is, so each layer gets over extruded because it’s trying to pack too much plastic in a shortened height. I would try cleaning and lubricating the Z rod(s) (with grease, not oil) and run the z axis up all the way and back down a few times, and watch for skipping steps or roughness in the travel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Look for obstructions to the little wheels on the Z gantry as they roll up the frame posts. You could undo the Z gantry from the Z threaded rod. Be sure to support it on a box or something. Then lift the axis up and down by hand and feel if it’s smooth. A lot of problems with motion on 3D printer be revealed if you can work the motion by hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27077" LastActivityDate="2021-07-20T00:13:53.473" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16770" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-07-20T06:22:27.217" Score="2" ViewCount="269" Body="&lt;p&gt;I’ve had my 3D printer for about 2.5 years. Recently while I’ve been printing, it makes these small little gaps in the filament, like it can’t print consistently.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ixHCd.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;First layer, inconsistent layer quality&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ixHCd.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;First layer, inconsistent layer quality&quot; title=&quot;First layer, inconsistent layer quality&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I’m not sure if there’s something wrong with my filament, or with the printer print. What do you think?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="29405" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2021-07-20T07:08:50.407" LastActivityDate="2021-07-23T11:51:14.770" Title="Inconsistent layer printing" Tags="|print-quality|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16771" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16750" CreationDate="2021-07-20T07:15:07.790" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Consider this example:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4888256&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4888256&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The text entered by the author is visible above the seemingly random text you mentioned in your question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Seeing how Thingiverse is a Makerbot product, it's likely that they've messed up their database somehow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13171" LastActivityDate="2021-07-20T07:15:07.790" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16772" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2021-07-20T10:42:30.390" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;For questions that are &lt;em&gt;specifically&lt;/em&gt; about Thingiverse website. For example, issues relating to the website, such as web access, database down, database corruption, UI issues, etc..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This tag should not be used for general STL files thta just so happen to be downloaded from the site. Where the STL came from shouldn't really matter - unless the issue is &lt;em&gt;specific&lt;/em&gt; to Thingiverse, such as a corrupted download issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4762" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2021-07-20T10:42:30.390" LastActivityDate="2021-07-20T10:42:30.390" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16773" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2021-07-20T10:42:30.390" Score="0" Body="Questions about Thingiverse specifically - issues with the site, etc." OwnerUserId="4762" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2021-07-20T10:42:30.390" LastActivityDate="2021-07-20T10:42:30.390" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16774" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16750" CreationDate="2021-07-20T11:06:32.940" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &amp;quot;dealer button&amp;quot; text is the default text that Thingiverse inserts when you create a new Thing entry.  If you get in a hurry and hit &amp;quot;Publish Thing&amp;quot; before you edit that, it'll go up for everyone to see with the &amp;quot;dealer button&amp;quot; default text still in place.  Many times, when you see that, you'll also see the defaults still in place for machine specs, filament type, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In other words, it's just a user error, especially prevalent on &amp;quot;quickie&amp;quot; uploads that aren't intended for a wide audience or long term preservation.  Based on comments, this may also be a relatively recent change at Thingiverse; I've only uploaded designs there over the past few months, and I've seen it every time over that time frame (since about April 2021).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28508" LastEditorUserId="28508" LastEditDate="2021-07-20T12:41:19.767" LastActivityDate="2021-07-20T12:41:19.767" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16775" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-07-20T13:23:22.480" Score="2" ViewCount="360" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have recently purchased an SKR 1.4 Turbo which I intend to add to my P3Steel printer. I have an old &lt;a href=&quot;https://smile.amazon.co.uk/S-180-12-12V-15A-power-supply/dp/B06XH8S13R&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;power supply&lt;/a&gt; which appears to have dual outputs [COM COM +V +V]. I want to connect this to the board but the board only has a +V -V connector. The supply is rated at 12 V 15 A which I believe is what is required by the board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do I have to connect both +V from the power supply to the +V on the board, and both COM (-V) on the power supply to the -V on the board?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I guess what I'm asking is whether the full 12 V 15 A is only achieved by using both of the outputs together?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hNKZE.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hNKZE.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="29408" LastEditorUserId="15075" LastEditDate="2021-07-20T19:11:10.287" LastActivityDate="2021-07-21T18:31:59.090" Title="(SKR 1.4 Turbo, TMC2209 Drivers) - Power supply has 4 output, but board only 2 input" Tags="|power-supply|skr-v1.4|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16776" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16775" CreationDate="2021-07-20T19:21:25.947" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;My Ender 3 has the same connections on the power supply.  As received from the factory, the machine runs off one set (mainboard, bed heat, hotend, and fans) and the other set is left open (I think they're connected inside the power supply).  Given mine is a 300 W rated supply like yours, you should be okay drawing 15 A connected to either V+ and either COM terminal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28508" LastEditorUserId="28508" LastEditDate="2021-07-21T18:31:59.090" LastActivityDate="2021-07-21T18:31:59.090" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16777" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16766" CreationDate="2021-07-20T22:45:22.257" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, settings are stored in memory (or the equivalent storage location).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When a new firmware is uploaded, the values set in the newly configured firmware can be set by &lt;code&gt;Restore Defaults&lt;/code&gt; from the Marlin printer LCD the user interface. Alternatively, you could print a G-code file containing &lt;a href=&quot;https://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M502.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;code&gt;M502&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;https://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M500.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;code&gt;M500&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/a&gt;, or send them over using a &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10573/what-is-a-printer-console-terminal&quot;&gt;console&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;code&gt;M502&lt;/code&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Reset all configurable settings to their factory defaults.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To also reset settings in EEPROM, follow with M500.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;code&gt;M500&lt;/code&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Save all configurable settings to EEPROM&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11438/m502-will-reset-all-configurable-settings-to-their-factory-defaults-which-set&quot;&gt;M502 will reset all configurable settings to their &amp;quot;factory defaults&amp;quot;, which settings are those?&lt;/a&gt; for more information.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/11440&quot;&gt;This answer&lt;/a&gt; hints to a similar description:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Installing firmware does not by itself alter the EEPROM, so these settings needed to be seeded into SRAM via &lt;code&gt;M502&lt;/code&gt; and then saved into EEPROM via &lt;code&gt;M500&lt;/code&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please note that the EEPROM on 32-bit boards are emulated. There are several ways to emulate EEPROM storage via flash storage in the ARM processor or using an SD card. There is a solution for an actual EEPROM, but that requires buying an EEPROM chip and breakout board on the I2C connector if it has such an output port. Selection of which is done in the &lt;code&gt;Configuration_adv.h&lt;/code&gt; config file.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-07-21T20:52:21.267" LastActivityDate="2021-07-21T20:52:21.267" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16778" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13576" CreationDate="2021-07-21T16:48:45.617" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;To build in 0scar's answer, standard nozzle width is 0.4 mm, so using a width of 0.5 mm will likely make the slicer extrude the edge as &lt;em&gt;two extrusion lines&lt;/em&gt;, either with one of them very thin (which is hard to print precisely), or overextruded so that the total width is closer to 0.8 mm. You should probably aim for exactly the nozzle/line width, or since that sometimes causes slicing problems due to numerical inaccuracy, something like 5% over, with the slicer's &amp;quot;minimum flow&amp;quot; set to 10% or more so that a second line does not get laid down at all. You could also try reducing the line width below the nozzle width. Down to about 75% of the nozzle width should work pretty reliably; below that it's likely to have problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Aside from that, your print seems to have a lot of blobs and extrusion errors on it. To make this work well, you should try to find the causes of those issues too and get them fixed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2021-07-21T16:48:45.617" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16779" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16523" CreationDate="2021-07-22T08:29:15.690" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Posted as a wiki answer from a comment from the OP to a different &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/16584&quot;&gt;answer&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/16584&quot;&gt;&lt;code&gt;Zig Zag&lt;/code&gt; vs &lt;code&gt;Lines&lt;/code&gt; patterns&lt;/a&gt; was only a part of the problem. The 2&lt;sup&gt;nd&lt;/sup&gt; part was that this layer rested on supports only, so the fill, whatever its pattern, didn't have enough surface to &amp;quot;grab on&amp;quot; near the perimeters. If I had switched from &lt;code&gt;Zig Zag&lt;/code&gt; to &lt;code&gt;Lines&lt;/code&gt;, the air gap would've diminished a bit, but I would've gotten drooping. I solved it with wider, underlying perimeters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2021-07-22T08:29:15.690" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2021-07-22T08:29:15.690" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16780" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13294" CreationDate="2021-07-22T10:22:47.847" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my opinion, PrusaSlicer aims for the most robust printing process at the cost of a higher demand for material in the standard configuration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I totally agree with &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/13294/prusa-slicer-and-support-material#comment23677_13294&quot;&gt;@0scar&lt;/a&gt; that the small pillars have a high tendency of falling over with increasing height of the print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To handle the waste of material you could use the feature &amp;quot;Paint-On Supports&amp;quot; (since version 2.3) to tell the software where support material has to be used. The feature can be found on the left panel while on &amp;quot;3D-Editor View&amp;quot;. This is an extra step to prepare your model, but to speed up your post-processing I think it should be worth it. Prusa improved the modifier by &amp;quot;you get what you click&amp;quot;.&#xA;If you want to stay in Version 2.2, I think you have to use the generic modifiers, which are a lot more time-consuming to set up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://help.prusa3d.com/en/article/paint-on-supports_168584&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Paint-on supports @Prusa Knowledge Base&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="29332" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-07-22T13:30:14.863" LastActivityDate="2021-07-22T13:30:14.863" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16781" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-07-22T12:58:31.023" Score="2" ViewCount="1044" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently acquired a Anycubic Photon Zero and I'm having trouble printing anything that's not pre-loaded from that company.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I create my own models in Blender, put them through the Photon Workshop slicer software as well as download other models from the web for personal use and only the bottom or 1st layer will print! But anything that came pre-loaded as a demo from Anycubic prints fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there something I'm missing? What should I be checking for in the slicer software? Clearly the model is ready as you can see it all in light-blue on the printer/thumb drive, and as I said, it prints the first layer correctly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have calibrated the printer previously.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's level, I even have a new resin resevoir with a clean film on the bottom.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I noticed when I try to print vs what any cubic provides is, you know how the print head or plate moves up and down consistently. It almost seems any of these problem models, the printing plate stays in a static position for quite a while before it moves onto the next.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The screen shows what appears to be the correct layer being printed but I noticed even the plate doesn't move down back into the resin as it should.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any thoughts? Thanks in advance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ps - I'm using I believe their brand resin, the plant-based one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="29428" LastActivityDate="2021-07-22T14:12:15.693" Title="Anycubic resin printer not printing beyond the first layer" Tags="|resin|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16782" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16781" CreationDate="2021-07-22T14:12:15.693" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Although you've noted that you have run the model through the slicer, what's missing is if the preview shows you more than one layer. Near the bottom of your post, I think you're indicating that more than one layer is being displayed. In the preview, you should see images indicating that the layers are changing as the slider/progress bar is moved.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first layers of a resin print are often tens of seconds long, to establish a more cured bond with the build plate. Depending on your settings this can be four to six layers running many seconds, but once &amp;quot;cleared&amp;quot; of the foundation, the duration should be shorter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Consider to use a different slicer as a means of comparison. Also, consider to download an STL of any form from a different resource, something you have not created. Blender is known for creating unprintable models.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally, you can save resin by not pouring any in the vat during these tests. If the characteristics are as you describe, you can examine the movement and the layer displays as the print job progresses, while not wasting product.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastActivityDate="2021-07-22T14:12:15.693" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16783" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-07-23T01:40:08.450" Score="3" ViewCount="629" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm currently printing 11 copies of the same model.  I noticed as it's printing that it seems to work on one model at a time but doesn't travel to the nearest model next.  I suspect it's traveling around the bed in the order that I put the models in the slicer.  This is resulting in extra unnecessary travel and therefore, increasing print time.  I slice in Cura 4.9.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a slicer that handles this better? Or is there a way to optimize movements in Cura?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="29433" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-07-23T18:42:52.580" LastActivityDate="2021-07-23T18:42:52.580" Title="Can you optimize head movements to speed up printing?" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|speed|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16784" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16085" CreationDate="2021-07-23T01:42:46.010" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hopefully you've solved this by now.  If not, I'd be looking at all your bolts.  Tighten every single one of them.  Make sure none of the pieces are able to rock or twist or warp or anything like that.  After that, recheck your belts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="29433" LastActivityDate="2021-07-23T01:42:46.010" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16785" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16783" CreationDate="2021-07-23T09:29:48.617" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Long story short:&lt;/strong&gt; I only know the setting &amp;quot;Combing Mode OFF&amp;quot; that improves the travel paths. In my case it did not help. In your case I suggest you should give PrusaSlicer a try. I assume that the overall print duration will be improved because of a better calculation of the travel paths. But this is only my personal opinion between these two Slicers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Further explanation:&lt;/strong&gt; I downloaded the Cura 4.9 and made an install from scratch. I tried to reproduce your issue by placing lots of copies of the same part. As printer I selected the Ultimaker S5 and used the standard configuration for slicing. I let Cura arrange the parts on the print plate.&#xA;I checked the travel paths between the parts and in most cases Cura has chosen the nearest distance to move the printhead to the next part. In my opinion, there could be a more efficient choice for the next part to print.&#xA;After this first test I experimented with the settings (e.g. &amp;quot;Combing Mode&amp;quot; OFF) but without an improvement in travel movements.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the past I used Cura in combination with an Ultimaker S5 at work to print parts for production usecases. Over the past two years I recognized lots of parts where the travel movements have been chosen very unefficiently at the cost of high print duration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For comparison I used my standard slicer &amp;quot;PrusaSlicer&amp;quot; and did the test under the same conditions: standard settings, auto-arrangement of the parts.&#xA;Overall the travel paths are calculated more efficiently, but there is also some room for improvement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="29332" LastActivityDate="2021-07-23T09:29:48.617" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16786" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16783" CreationDate="2021-07-23T11:09:16.977" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's well known in mathematical circles that the &amp;quot;salesman problem&amp;quot; is what mathematicians call &amp;quot;hard&amp;quot; -- in their usage, that means a lot of extremely smart people have worked on the problem for many years (more than a century?) and still not found a robust, works-every-time solution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What's probably happening with Cura and other slicers is that, for their version of this issue (the most efficient way to visit multiple locations) the decision was made that reducing computing time in slicing was more practical than optimizing travel time of the machine.  This is a reasonable decision, from a programming standpoint, because you're likely to be sitting in front of a screen, getting more and more impatient (and thinking less and less of the software you're using) every second the slicing takes, but when the actual printing is going on, you can be doing something else (sleeping, working at your day job, etc.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Therefor, it's likely that what you see in Cura &lt;em&gt;is&lt;/em&gt; optimized -- to minimize &lt;em&gt;your&lt;/em&gt; time on the way to a solution, rather than to minimize the time for a machine that simply doesn't care if a print takes five hours or nine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28508" LastActivityDate="2021-07-23T11:09:16.977" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16787" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16770" CreationDate="2021-07-23T11:51:14.770" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my opinion, the shown error could have four possible reasons:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your filament absorbed too much moisture between the prints. During your print the moisture will be released as &amp;quot;little steam bubbles&amp;quot; which make some popping noise. With certain filaments you can even see this if you look closely. Normally PLA should not be so critical as compared with PETG or NYLON for example. If you haven't already done so before, please change the filament spool to a completely new one that is still packed in vacuum. Hopefully this should already solve your problem.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A clogged extruder can also be a reason for inconsistency. But if this were the case, the extrusion would be significantly worse. So in your case I think this is not the main reason.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A bad filament diameter quality can also be a reason for an inconsistent extrusion. But the result should not look as bad as it looks in your picture. So I do not think it is very likely in your case.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In very rare cases the stepper driver or the extruder motor itself can also be a reason for bad extrusion. I had this once and after a change of the motor everything worked fine again. But this should be the last option after all other approaches failed.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="29332" LastActivityDate="2021-07-23T11:51:14.770" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16788" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16765" CreationDate="2021-07-23T14:33:02.140" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have this exact problem as well. I am feeding filament from the dry box through the tube into the top of the hot end. After approximately 2 days I would notice that the filament is broken somewhere close to the hot end. I don't believe that it's just humidity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suspect that the filament being brittle and being made to conform to the PTFE tube's shape, having been recently on a spool, is causing the breaks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a result, I'm going to write a small script that will heat the hot end and eject 200 mm of filament every so often.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: Whilst the script works, the filament would just break somewhere else lower down in the tube. Therefore the amount of filament that would need to be extruded periodically would be just wasteful. A better solution would be to unload the filament, either manually or automatically (somehow).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12857" LastEditorUserId="12857" LastEditDate="2021-11-29T15:28:34.760" LastActivityDate="2021-11-29T15:28:34.760" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16790" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-07-24T14:13:11.023" Score="4" ViewCount="443" Body="&lt;p&gt;My Tevo Tornado has picked up this habit along the way of checking axes during a print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;(I say picked up because it didn't exhibit any problems when I got it. As far as I can tell the problem presented on their own. The first thing I did to it was flashing the firmware after posting this question as per one of the comments suggestions)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is mostly fine when it happens on the X or Y-axis, as the only resulting issue is a string on the outside of the print, but it's a problem on the Z-axis as you can imagine. I just had a print wrecked as the nozzle unit got lowered into it and started pushing against it. I used to slice with Cura but have since moved to Slic3r, the issue remains. I don't think it's a G-code problem as it doesn't happen at the same points during prints.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While X and Y-axis checks are relatively common (1 every 15-20 minutes or so) the Z-axis checks have happened only twice on longer prints with devastating results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm assuming this is a software/firmware/settings issue. What am I missing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additional information:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Another thing that I've not mentioned but I think it's related: with the same randomness as the axes homing, the extruder from time to time will pull back a good 5 to 8 cm of filament and then pull it back in, stopping momentarily the print and causing blotches and melts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I've re-flashed the firmware, the issues are still present and I can confirm that the weird movements still occur. So far it exhibits X and Y homing on a shorter print (2hrs). By the way, I say it's homing because that's what I'm assuming it's doing as I can't explain it in any other way, to be honest.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;In the file I'm currently printing there are four &lt;code&gt;G28&lt;/code&gt; commands, but they are not in the movement bits of the file. There's one at the start, one after filament END code and two in what I'm assuming are references for defined parameters denoted by ';' after the END filament code as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;This is what the &lt;code&gt;G28&lt;/code&gt; I was referring to is at the end&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;M107 ; Filament-specific end gcode &#xA;;END gcode for filament &#xA;M104 S0 ; turn off temperature &#xA;G28 X0 ; home X axis &#xA;M84 ; disable motors &#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It just homes the X axis&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The printer also randomly turns itself off and on again during printing causing half-finished prints.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I'm using pretty much the default settings off of Cura and Slic3r, so no fancy editing. The G-code that it spits out is probably as standard as it gets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;There is &lt;em&gt;nothing else&lt;/em&gt; connected to the printer (like Octoprint), that could be sending commands. The printer is pretty much how it came out of the factory.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Here's a &lt;a href=&quot;https://drive.google.com/file/d/1psfEsagBA6_0NKIJo1x4xoQ1zPE8vW6f/view?usp=sharing&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;video&lt;/a&gt; of the printer exhibiting the bad behaviour. There is what I thought was the homing of the axes but upon further inspection sometimes it doesn't touch the sensor at the end. The clips where it seemingly almost stops and proceeds to produce a grinding noise are the ones where the extruder is retracting and pulling back in the filament. There are a couple of clips where the printer slows down randomly to a very slow pace. Fortunately no negative Z-axis movements on this print so far. There were many more of these episodes but I didn't catch them on video.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Here are two G-code files a &lt;a href=&quot;https://drive.google.com/file/d/19LipZuNWKKeRSRA2wpfsaIWkhrZQPX7b/view?usp=sharing&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;shorter&lt;/a&gt; one and a &lt;a href=&quot;https://drive.google.com/file/d/1jzMa7dre_kMeKZA6d0p5Tg63avEVBxsN/view?usp=sharing&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;longer&lt;/a&gt; one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Switching the SD card to a different and reliable one has not fixed the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Completely anecdotal piece of info: it &lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;seems&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt; that the number of errors increases as the printer advances. It seems that at the beginning of a new day, the printer is less error prone, as &lt;em&gt;if&lt;/em&gt; it needed a rest.&#xA;Just turning it off and on does not yield the same results.&#xA;This piece of info might help to narrow it down maybe?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Switching outlets does not fix the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Because of the seemingly increasing nature of the number of errors reported before, I've opened up the housing of the main board to check for any issues relating to cooling. Apart for some dust (now removed), everything seems fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I've connected the printer via USB to my laptop and tried to run it through Cura and Pronterface. In both cases any command I send through the software does not get executed. In particular when I run a basic home command or axis movement through Pronterface it spits out the following in an endless loop without actually doing anything:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;echo:busy: processing&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The drivers are installed on the computer. I can see the printer appear on a COM and it seemingly connects fine. If when connected to PC I send a home command from the printer itself, it won't work but appear as processing in the software as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="29451" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2021-08-06T12:29:54.377" LastActivityDate="2023-04-10T01:49:38.427" Title="My 3D printer checks axes home during print, often wrecking the print" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|g-code|z-axis|slic3r|tevo-tornado|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16791" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16794" CreationDate="2021-07-24T16:56:44.953" Score="1" ViewCount="768" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am having some issues with my printer skipping/not extruding random layers of my prints. It happens a few layers in and sometimes doesn't even affect the entire layer. I have tried switching from Cura to PrusaSlicer but the problem persists. My printer is an Ender 3 v2 with dual Z-axis screws, a Micro Swiss all-metal hotend, Micro Swiss direct drive extruder, and a firmware update to reach 275 °C.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am currently using Polymaker PC-ABS in an enclosure but I have had the same problem with Hatchbox PETG.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have heard that Z Hop could be the issue when using Cura. I have tried turning it off while using Cura but it did not solve the problem. I have not tried turning it off in PrusaSlicer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PrusaSlicer settings are as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;270 °C nozzle&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;95 °C bed&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;0.22 mm layer height.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;75 % flow for bridges with a 110° threshold for bridges&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;0.85 mm retraction @ 30 mm/s&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lift Z of 0.2 mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;3 walls&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;5 top and bottom layers&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;20 % gyroid infill&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;cooling off&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RLq65.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Fan duct failure&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RLq65.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Fan duct failure&quot; title=&quot;Fan duct failure&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28896" LastEditorUserId="28896" LastEditDate="2021-07-24T18:55:23.730" LastActivityDate="2021-07-25T14:32:57.113" Title="Ender 3 v2 layer skips" Tags="|creality-ender-3|extruder|extrusion|underextrusion|direct-drive|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16792" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16085" CreationDate="2021-07-24T19:20:11.353" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have a 4.2.2 board, it may be a stepper driver problem. If this is the case, the only solution is to replace the board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28896" LastActivityDate="2021-07-24T19:20:11.353" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16793" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16799" CreationDate="2021-07-25T13:07:20.683" Score="4" ViewCount="1678" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;TLDR - I’ve just driven myself insane trying to fix what I thought was a physical problem with my Z-axis, but it seems to have been solved by switching from the TH3D firmware to the Creality firmware. I’m hoping someone can help me see where I went wrong here, so I can learn from it. Have I missed something obvious?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My printer is a Creality Ender 3 Pro. I have a BLTouch. I recently upgraded to the silent 4.2.7 board and compiled my own firmware using TH3D Unified 2 using their instructions. &lt;a href=&quot;https://pastebin.com/MYs8sYGj&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;This is my &lt;code&gt;configuration.h&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This “worked”, but after that upgrade, I had severe print problems. (See the photos below) These are supposed to be 20x20x20 calibration cubes (the big one is 200%). They are significantly taller than they should be. It may be hard to see in the photo, but this is because the Z spacing on the bottom layers seems to be too high. But, at the same point on each print (even the bigger one), the problem seems to just stop - and layer spacing is correct again for the end of the print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BGayd.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Comparison of multiple calibration cubes&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BGayd.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Comparison of multiple calibration cubes&quot; title=&quot;Comparison of multiple calibration cubes&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried everything to figure out what this was and I was convinced it was a physical problem with my Z-axis. I read lots of questions on here but nothing quite on topic. I printed on different parts of the bed and got the same result. I re-calibrated my Z steps, but these turned out to be pretty much at the firmware default anyway. I tightened every bolt and eccentric nut I could find that related to the X-axis gantry, but nothing made any difference. Same problem, every time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Out of desperation, I eventually switched to the official Creality firmware for the Ender 3 Pro 4.2.7 board with BLTouch - and the problem was fixed:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7tXcf.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Printed calibration cube after firmware change&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7tXcf.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Printed calibration cube after firmware change&quot; title=&quot;Printed calibration cube after firmware change&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone have any ideas about what caused this? Have I overlooked something obvious? I’d ideally like to go back to the TH3D firmware but it’s seemingly not an option.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://pastebin.com/MYs8sYGj&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://pastebin.com/MYs8sYGj&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="29463" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-07-26T14:12:57.107" LastActivityDate="2022-01-14T16:34:29.950" Title="Creality Ender 3 Pro - Z travel issue with TH3D firmware" Tags="|creality-ender-3|marlin|firmware|bltouch|th3d|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16794" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16791" CreationDate="2021-07-25T14:32:57.113" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a known issue with the v4.2.2 mainboard relating to overheating. Continued overheating will eventually result in the extruder controller on the mainboard going bad.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Solution: Mainboard change to version 4.2.7 and raise your unit to create more air flow. You could also add a fan under the printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="29464" LastActivityDate="2021-07-25T14:32:57.113" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16796" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16663" CreationDate="2021-07-26T09:33:23.227" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This was happened because I don't use support on the slope. After I use support the jagged edge is gone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="29175" LastActivityDate="2021-07-26T09:33:23.227" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16797" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-07-26T10:49:59.893" Score="4" ViewCount="261" Body="&lt;p&gt;Please listen to &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WF6AD.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this video&lt;/a&gt;, which illustrates the issue, with the sound on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://1drv.ms/u/s!AqArba8YeDDe8wqAjjjqbDsrVboa?e=CWL8B5&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Link to &lt;code&gt;configuration.h&lt;/code&gt; and &lt;code&gt;configuration_adv.h&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Machine Ender 3 Pro,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;New E3Dv6 hotend on a BMG Wind (all has been working and printing PLA, PETG, and TPU fine until I printed a mount and re-added my BLTouch).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;SKR Mini E3 1.2 mainboard.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have rebuilt my firmware after installing a new hotend/direct drive onto my Ender 3 Pro (BMG Wind).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Firstly, the motors have become really noisy if you note the point where the nozzle moves to the middle of the bed in the linked video to do the first probe you can hear the motors making very loud noises, it does the first couple of probes in the middle of the bed which seem fine then moves to the bottom left of the bed to start the leveling procedure. Please also note the motors going from the center of the bed to the left bottom are back to their normal noise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It then starts the leveling it probes point 1 out of 25 and seems fine, moved to point 2 again probes then the z rises and on the screen, I get a message &amp;quot;endstops z&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have had all working with precompiled firmware with the stock hotend and BLTouch but as I have added a new hot end and direct drive wanted to start with a fresh marlin build. this is the result.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I remove the BLTouch and manually level the steppers are still noisy but all work fine and I can print, I'm just trying to understand how the motors have become so noisy in certain motions, (the z-axis is always a bit noisier than normal but the other motors have been fine except when traveling really fast in certain combinations of directions).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, for the life of me, I cannot get this thing to probe properly - like I say it was fine with BTT's SKR E3 mini BLTouch precompiled &lt;code&gt;firmware.bin&lt;/code&gt; - but I can't get into that to examine the contents, I must have some of the settings wrong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can anyone please suggest anything to help? I have googled all night and watched numerous videos but have had no luck at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By the way, the new extruder and hot end work fine and after manually leveling the bed I have had some good prints, I just added a mount for the BLTouch so I could have that working as well (I have lost some build space due to the new hotend so the bed is set in Marlin to 210 x 215. this works fine. Also, excuse the wiring I want this working before I tidy all of the wires up, again all works with the wiring as it is until I re-flash the firmware).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="29477" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-07-26T17:55:41.500" LastActivityDate="2021-07-26T17:55:41.500" Title="BLTouch not probing all points and motors making really loud noises since rebuild of latest Marlin (new hot end installed and BLTouch)" Tags="|creality-ender-3|bltouch|e3d-v6|skr-mini-e3|e3d|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16798" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16762" CreationDate="2021-07-26T11:26:21.853" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As suggested in comments, I've installed Luke Hatfield's captive PTFE tube fix using high temperature Capricorn PTFE tube inside the heat break, and this seems to have solved the problem, while accomplishing the main thing I wanted an all metal hot end for: allowing higher print temperatures for filaments that require it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my case, I had to modify the classic procedure a bit; careful measurement of my heat sink required printing a custom &amp;quot;washer&amp;quot; with top end diameter of 8 mm, bottom (against the heat break) diameter of 5 mm, 4 mm taper length, 1 mm thick non-tapered top extension (so the coupler could compress the washer into place); I drafted a 2.25 mm bore (after an initial prototype at 2.1 mm wouldn't pass filament with marks from the extruder teeth; there's probably some shrinkage in the printing process) and an entry cone of 3.125 mm diameter, tapering to bore diameter after the first 3 mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I cut a piece of Capricorn PTFE tube 1 mm longer than the heat break; assembled heat break to heat sink (to ensure it was bottomed against the shoulder in the bore), then screwed heat break into the heat block to set depth, ensuring that the nozzle would tighten against the heat break before bottoming the hex against the heat block.  Hot tightening the nozzle, followed by tightening the coupler, gave about 3% compression of the captive Capricorn tube, ensuring a good seal against the nozzle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I kept the stock, translucent PTFE for the Bowden tube, so I can see the filament (at least as a shadow) when I load it, but where it matters, I now have captive, compression sealed PTFE that's rated up to 300 °C -- and this has so far worked perfectly for a number of prints.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28508" LastActivityDate="2021-07-26T11:26:21.853" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16799" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16793" CreationDate="2021-07-26T13:44:28.353" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Looking at your prints, the problem is possibly related to the fade out height of the BLTouch functionality.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you look closely at the 20x20x20 mm cube:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;half the print is fine (top half of the original correct cube)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the bottom &amp;quot;half&amp;quot; (not really half as it is stretched) is porous (grey, indicating more space allowed than the correct layer height per layer should be).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you look closely at the 40x40x40 mm cube:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the first &amp;quot;quart&amp;quot; of the 40x40x40 mm is also incorrect (also stretched),&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the rest, 3/4 of the top of the print is fine (correct layer height).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your &lt;code&gt;configuration_backend.h&lt;/code&gt; config file doesn't look strange, so the underlying problem could well be more complicated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A possibility is that there is no reference found to the &lt;code&gt;DEFAULT_LEVELING_FADE_HEIGHT&lt;/code&gt; in the linked firmware file. A more in depth answer on enabling/setting the fade height is found &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/6905/&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;M420 S1  ; Enable compensation using current grid/mesh&#xA;M420 Z10 ; Gradually reduce compensation until Z=10&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is good to have a fade out height, if zero, the imperfections of the bottom travel all the way to the top of the print; the solution is to use bed geometry (&lt;code&gt;M420 S1&lt;/code&gt;) and fade out over 10 mm (&lt;code&gt;M420 Z10&lt;/code&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-07-26T21:46:28.773" LastActivityDate="2021-07-26T21:46:28.773" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16800" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14440" CreationDate="2021-07-26T17:57:26.560" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some manufacturers do recommend ethanol and not isopropanol. The problem would be getting relatively pure ethanol through distillation. When distilling you will get different fractions which may be full of methanol or water. You will probably need to do multiple runs. You could just buy some 95% ethanol and distill it once it gets dirty or leave it in the sun to cure the resin and filter it out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28896" LastActivityDate="2021-07-26T17:57:26.560" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16801" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-07-27T08:02:26.740" Score="1" ViewCount="672" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to update the LCD screen on my CR-10S Pro.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've been following the procedure on &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SBX30GmM3Qo&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Teaching Tech&lt;/a&gt; and formatting the SD card to FAT32, but the screen either shows the loading screen as normal or doesn't transfer anything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I update the LCD?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ie46K.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;LCD Showing no files transferred&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ie46K.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;LCD Showing no files transferred&quot; title=&quot;LCD Showing no files transferred&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="29270" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-07-27T11:14:30.307" LastActivityDate="2021-07-27T11:16:53.180" Title="Format SD Card on Mac to update LCD screen on CR-10S Pro" Tags="|firmware|creality-cr-10|lcd-screen|microsd|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16802" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16801" CreationDate="2021-07-27T08:02:26.740" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;On a Mac it is easy enough to format an SD card to FAT32 using diskutils, but this doesn't do it quite properly.&#xA;Many resources state that for devices like the LCD on the CR10s Pro, the SD card must also be formatted with an &amp;quot;Allocation Block Size&amp;quot; of 4096, and unfortunately diskutils doesn't do this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can force the correct settings using &lt;code&gt;newfs_msdos&lt;/code&gt; to format the card in terminal. The process that worked for me is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;diskutil list&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note the location of the sd card, something like &lt;code&gt;/dev/disk1&lt;/code&gt; (be careful to select the correct device)&#xA;Then to format:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;diskutil unmountDisk force /dev/disk1&#xA;sudo newfs_msdos -F 32 -v {name} -b 4096 /dev/disk1&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;where &lt;code&gt;{name}&lt;/code&gt; is the name you want to give the SD card. When you put the card in the slot on the LCD, it should now update correctly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="29270" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-07-27T11:16:53.180" LastActivityDate="2021-07-27T11:16:53.180" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16803" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16736" CreationDate="2021-07-27T11:57:45.280" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;What I have done:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Using lowest hotend temperature 170 °C&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Using highest hotend temperature 220 °C&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;No wobble in extruder (x-axis)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;No wobble in gantry (x-axis)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;No wobble in bed (y-axis)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;No wobble in z-rod (z-axis)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bed levelling to my perfect&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Shorten and slower the retraction, from 8 mm and 70 mm/s to 6 mm and 50 mm/s&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Enabling and disabling retraction&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Enabling and disabling z-hop (z-lift in PrusaSlicer)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Formatted the micro SD card&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I have tried using Cura as well. I thought maybe different slicer will result differently.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Position the z-offset from -2.20 mm to -2.15 mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Position the z-offset from -2.15 mm to -2.10 mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Printing a bigger round, vase&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All of those don't solve this issue. Then I realized that while my z motor rotates there were some occasions where the rod wasn't rotates. I changed the hex bolts and tighten them up properly to solve this issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="29175" LastActivityDate="2021-07-27T11:57:45.280" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16804" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16790" CreationDate="2021-07-27T23:38:07.977" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;After watching the video, I see three unwanted behaviors, all consistent with a hypothesis that the printer is reading corrupted data from the gcode file:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Moves to low but nonzero X or Y coordinate then immediately back are not homing, but misreading of the X or Y value for a G1 move command - perhaps flipping a bit so that a leading 1 looks like a 0, or hitting a parse error causing it to be truncated after the first 1 or 2 characters (making it appear to be a value in the range 0-9 or 0-99). The very next command would then move the head back to the correct position since these are absolute coordinates not relative.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Periods of extreme slow speed could be the exact same thing (bit flip or truncation parsing) for the feedrate (F) value in the G1 commands.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Extruder motor clicking could be the exact same thing for extruder position (E) value in the G1 commands.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this is the case, it's possible that the SD card itself is unreliable (try other cards if you have any), that the contacts in the SD card slot are dirty, that there's electrical noise on the bus (from poor grounding or shielding elsewhere), that the controller board is defective, etc. If the problem occurs in the exact same location each time you print, it's almost surely the card; if it's random it's more likely to be one of the other causes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2021-07-27T23:38:07.977" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16805" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-07-28T00:55:17.177" Score="7" ViewCount="9101" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have designed a cupholder for my center console in my truck with PETG. I was hoping it wouldn't deform and it didn't for a while but we got some high temperatures the past few days (around 32-38 °C or 90-100 °F).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Kind of figured it wouldn't hold up mid-summer but I was wondering if ABS would be my next best choice or if there is something better for this. It does see some sunlight but not a lot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do want to start producing some to sell and don't want it deforming in high-temperature areas. Also, I have an Ender 3 Pro so I can't do super crazy filaments.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="29514" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-07-28T12:23:06.453" LastActivityDate="2023-09-05T12:38:15.457" Title="Good filament/s for heat resistance in cars" Tags="|print-material|abs|heat|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16806" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16805" CreationDate="2021-07-28T01:26:48.427" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;ABS, or preferably ASA which is &amp;quot;a better ABS&amp;quot;, is probably your main option. ASA holds up better under UV/sunlight and is easier to print (less warping). Like ABS it should be printed with ventilation, and benefits some from an enclosure but can be done without it or with a primitive one (cardboard box).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A second strong candidate would be real PET (not PETG). It's hard to find as filament nowadays, and might still not have the heat resistance you want fresh off the printer, but it can be annealed with only minor dimensional changes to drastically increase heat resistance to 100 °C or higher. Strictly speaking, you can do this with PLA too, but it's hard to get it not to deform horribly when annealing unless you use 100% infill and pack it in sand or salt or something while annealing. Note that you cannot do this with PETG; it has been specifically and intentionally modified (vs normal PET) not to be able to crystallize (anneal), and to lower the temperaturse at which it softens and melts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another great option would be TPU. It's not subject to a glass transition temperature above room temperature (my understanding is that technically its &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$T_g$&lt;/span&gt; is very very cold, but that may be a misunderstanding) and does not really warp/deform permanently until you reach temperatures near what you could print it at. I've used it as a mold for melting crayons in an oven at 175 ˚F (80 ˚C) with no problem. Depending on your perspective it could be easier or harder than ABS to print. If your extruder is bad at handling flex materials you might have to go really slow, or you might have trouble with jamming on retraction, but unlike ABS it has no heat/warping issues while printing and can be done even on a cold bed, and does not particularly need ventilation (although as always, be careful if you have pet birds around).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that while TPU is considered a &amp;quot;flex&amp;quot; material, it can be fairly rigid at high infill with rigid infill patterns like triangles or cubic, or printed 100% solid, especially if you go with harder variants. 95A is typically the highest you see but sometimes you can find 98A.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastEditorUserId="11157" LastEditDate="2023-09-05T12:38:15.457" LastActivityDate="2023-09-05T12:38:15.457" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16807" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16805" CreationDate="2021-07-28T02:48:04.170" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you don't need it to be super precise, nothing beats annealed HTPLA. If you keep it on the bed while annealing you can minimize warping and you'll get a part that can take up to 180 °C. Fusion filaments makes a great HTPLA+ that's reasonably cheap, and you can get it without a spool. Their reusable spool is on Thingiverse. Just don't keep it on the bed if you have a magnetic bed. HTPLA needs over 80 °C which will ruin a magnetic bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28896" LastActivityDate="2021-07-28T02:48:04.170" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16808" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-07-28T04:25:40.683" Score="1" ViewCount="795" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've had a handful of successful prints with my 3D printer, but at some point it just stopped being able to put down a first layer. It looks like the issue is that the extruder doesn't start putting down plastic right away, and when it moves to a new point, drags it along with it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've leveled the bed, added a BLTouch, upgraded the extruder feeder after the original cracked, cleaned the bed, cleaned the hot end, replaced the nozzle and tried different filament. Nothing seems to change it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I let it continue it inevitably fails completely by the second layer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Video: &lt;a href=&quot;https://drive.google.com/file/d/11yFF3Acto4LtDJMBsdVsxr1PvmyMG2qR/view?usp=sharing&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://drive.google.com/file/d/11yFF3Acto4LtDJMBsdVsxr1PvmyMG2qR/view?usp=sharing&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28080" LastEditorUserId="28080" LastEditDate="2021-07-28T04:37:52.223" LastActivityDate="2021-07-28T20:19:38.607" Title="First layer failing due to delayed and dragged extrusion" Tags="|creality-ender-3|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16810" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18503" CreationDate="2021-07-28T14:05:45.593" Score="4" ViewCount="252" Body="&lt;p&gt;I only have experience with PrusaSlicer, where if I have one .STL file containing multiple volumes, I can click a &lt;code&gt;Split to parts&lt;/code&gt; button to then be able to change color of the individual volumes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do other slicer softwares handle this similarly or will I face a problem in other softwares?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm looking to upload my files for other people to print, and I would prefer to have 1 file per print. Can I upload these .STL files containing multiple volumes or should I rather upload separate .STLs?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: I was mainly looking for typical hobbyist slicers. I was looking to upload the files to a typical online 3d print sharing service for hobbyists.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21536" LastEditorUserId="21536" LastEditDate="2021-12-03T08:11:12.263" LastActivityDate="2021-12-03T08:11:12.263" Title="Do all slicers handle multi object .STL files correctly for multi color printing?" Tags="|slicing|stl|prusaslicer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16811" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16805" CreationDate="2021-07-28T15:14:26.657" Score="-4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Personally, I'd get the design &lt;em&gt;just right&lt;/em&gt; and then I'd use the &amp;quot;Get an Instant Quote&amp;quot; option on the &amp;quot;Solutions&amp;quot; menu at shapeways.com . It'll be expensive, but you could have it printed in sintered powdered stainless steel or aluminum. You'll want to design as many voids into it as you can, because they charge by the gram. There are cheaper vendors and you may have one locally, especially if you tell them &amp;quot;totally not a rush job&amp;quot; and they can run it with other parts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="29531" LastActivityDate="2021-07-28T15:14:26.657" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16812" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16808" CreationDate="2021-07-28T20:19:38.607" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think I figured it out! My extruder calibration was way off (set to 93 but measured to 102). I'm thinking that after I replaced the extruder feeder it through things off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28080" LastActivityDate="2021-07-28T20:19:38.607" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16814" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10680" CreationDate="2021-07-29T01:24:12.823" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I experienced almost the exact issue printing PETG, where severe under extrusion happens at the start of a new layer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After going though the tool path in Cura I determined that the root cause of this is because the last printing step at each layer is to fill the small gaps. The extruder would extrude very little material while going though the small gaps in the printed layer. The melted plastic in the print head would get dragged out, therefore more material would be lost than what was accounted for in Cura.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because of the uncertainty of how much material would be lost in the process, there is almost no way to compensate for it. The best &amp;quot;solution&amp;quot; I came up with is to add a small sacrificial cylinder to the model. The printer will fill the small gaps in the main object, then print the dummy cylinder and then print the next layer. This completely eliminated the under extrusion problem at the expense of a bit more material usage. Of course the printed sacrificial cylinder would look really bad with severe under extrusion at the z-seam.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I believe the same solution will also fix your problem: just enable printing outside wall first, and add a dummy cylinder to your model.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="29535" LastEditorUserId="29535" LastEditDate="2021-07-29T01:48:40.177" LastActivityDate="2021-07-29T01:48:40.177" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="17814" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14440" CreationDate="2021-07-29T15:06:40.020" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Answer taken from &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/18796/apesa&quot;&gt;Apesa&lt;/a&gt;'s highly upvoted, and now deleted, comments (&lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/14440/home-brew-alcohol-to-clean-resin-prints#comment26055_14440&quot;&gt;1&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/14440/home-brew-alcohol-to-clean-resin-prints#comment26058_14440&quot;&gt;2&lt;/a&gt;). If Apesa posts their own answer, then this wiki answer can be deleted.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Note: Please don't post answers in comments - that is not how SE works.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Isopropyl Alcohol is the more common choice for cleaning surfaces because it evaporates more rapidly than ethanol and also because it does not leave any traces of oils upon evaporation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To add one more caveat. Homemade alcohol no matter the proof / % will have many fusile alcohols that will deposit themselves on your semi cured resin. 90% alcohol dosen't equate to clean solvent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4762" LastActivityDate="2021-07-29T15:06:40.020" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2021-07-29T15:06:40.020" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="17817" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-07-30T14:01:29.017" Score="1" ViewCount="94" Body="&lt;p&gt;We have a 3D ceramics printer in our school, but since the access to it is a bit limited, I want to know as much theoretical stuff so I can learn more from each test.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We load the clay inside the printer tube, and it's just like the clay we use for pottery (except softer for the machine) - so we let it dry and fire it like any other piece. &lt;em&gt;It does &lt;strong&gt;not&lt;/strong&gt; use ceramic-loaded plastic filament for burn-out and kiln sintering&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Any tips for using the printer?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Points to consider while building the model?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Any good resource to learn more about it?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;I don't remember the specific model, but it's a fairly simple printer, and I'm mostly looking for general tips&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10568" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2021-08-02T05:12:53.047" LastActivityDate="2021-08-02T05:12:53.047" Title="What are some basic good practices I should know when starting to use a ceramic printer?" Tags="|ceramic-printer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="17818" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-07-30T18:48:16.783" Score="2" ViewCount="83" Body="&lt;p&gt;I need to print some items that will go in my car, which sits in direct sun a good portion of the day and almost certainly exceeds 50 °C inside during the summer months (I've had PLA prints sag quite visibly under their own weight and sliding parts weld together, and PETG prints show slight warpage after a couple weeks in the car).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have the ability now to print hotter than 250 °C, with Capricorn XS tubing installed in the heat break of my Ender 3.  I'm examining nylon and TPU filaments for their higher temperature tolerance, but I don't see anything on any filament that clearly gives a glass transition temperature.  Is it safe to assume this will be within the recommended bed temperature range, or is there another way to determine this (important, in my use case) value for a given filament?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28508" LastActivityDate="2021-07-30T22:30:42.587" Title="How do I determine the glass transition of filament from its sales listing information?" Tags="|print-material|filament-choice|temperature|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="17820" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17818" CreationDate="2021-07-30T22:09:13.043" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If there isn't a TDS on the manufacturer's website, you could email them and ask for it. If they won't give it to you, you could ask for the SDS to see if it has any additives. Polymaker has a TDS for every filament they make on their website, so I would recommend their filament for your purposes. I would also suggest you pay more attention to the heat deflection temperature, as it is probably more useful for functional parts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28896" LastActivityDate="2021-07-30T22:09:13.043" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="17821" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17818" CreationDate="2021-07-30T22:30:42.587" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The glass transition temperature is not always indicative of strength. Some polymers are solid well above that temperature, see &lt;a href=&quot;https://omnexus.specialchem.com/polymer-properties/properties/glass-transition-temperature&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://omnexus.specialchem.com/polymer-properties/properties/glass-transition-temperature&lt;/a&gt; for all the polyethylene, for example.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What you need is the heat deflection temperature, which is very seldomly provided in the datasheets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Luckily you can very roughly use the Tg for many polymers, but you should know that you are using a value which is only vaguely indicative of what you are looking for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2338" LastActivityDate="2021-07-30T22:30:42.587" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="17822" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11029" CreationDate="2021-07-30T23:54:58.740" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have this same extruder on my Voxelab Aquila.&#xA;Default E-steps are 93. Using the printer menu to feed 100 mm of eSun black PETG filament I measured a feed length of 66 mm, so 34 mm under extruded.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using the formula 100 / 66 * 93 gave me a new E-step value of 140.9.&#xA;Upon re-testing, I found I was now over extruding by 34mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This formula is missing something. I've chased E-step values up and down before so decided to try something different.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since the new E-step value was over extruding by the same as the original E-step under extruding value, I added the original E-step value to the new E-step value and took the average. 93 + 140.9 / 2 = 116.9.&#xA;I re-tested this value and found it was over extruding by 0.4 mm. Since I was still over extruding slightly I calculated a new E-step, 100 / 100.4 * 116.9 = 116.4. Took the average between the 2 again and got a final E-step value of 116.6.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps anyone else having issues calibrating E-steps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30553" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-07-31T00:04:39.043" LastActivityDate="2021-07-31T00:04:39.043" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="17823" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7388" CreationDate="2021-07-31T07:44:11.360" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had a similar issue, the first layer always ended up at slightly different heights, making the first layer too low or too high.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At one point, I was raising the Z height 100 mm in G-code, and while watching the gantry rise I noticed extremely brief pauses, then when I lowered to zero the nozzle crashed the bed.  I realized that the Z-axis threaded rod might be slipping.  I Sharpied some marks on the coupler, did the 100 mm rise again, and took a high-speed video of the coupler with my phone.  Sure enough, I saw moments where the coupler was turning but not the rod.  Even though the coupler felt quite tight.  So effectively the machine always thought the nozzle was higher than it actually was.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tightened about as tight as I could without stripping. It got better, but I still had first layer inconsistency that suggested slip.  Replacing the coupler with a version with 2 pairs of grub screws allowed me to get it sufficiently tight.  I'm not sure how the coupler got loose in the first place, probably a crash.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, I found that the screws that hold the heat block to the heat break had loosened a bit. Surely this could cause issues and again probably resulting from a crash.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, I think my Z gantry wheels may have been too tight. I think that would have relatively little effect on large vertical moves, but could cause some slight inconsistency in small moves or with vibrations; small but large enough to be the fractions of a millimeter that affect first layer quality.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyhow, one moral of this story I guess is after a crash, you can expect to spend a lot of time troubleshooting and fixing.  try not to crash.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30557" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-07-31T13:06:09.510" LastActivityDate="2021-07-31T13:06:09.510" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="17824" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-07-31T10:36:09.057" Score="3" ViewCount="804" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am having a bit of a nightmare trying to work out what is happening to the fans on my Mega Pro.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First off, the part cooling fan stopped working, then not long after the extruder fan also stopped working.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have opened up the printer and when it is on, the LED for both these fans is always on. Putting a multimeter to them reads ~12 V.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I send a &lt;code&gt;M106 S255&lt;/code&gt; to the part cooling fan, the voltage drops to ~8.5 V.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tracking the voltage up to the extruder board, it is consistent until the 2 pin connector for FAN0 or FAN2. Both of these return 0 V.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The temperature sensor and heating element are still working as expected though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I checked what happens on my Chiron (to compare), the fan voltage is 0 until the &lt;code&gt;M106 S255&lt;/code&gt; is set, then the LED comes on and the voltage goes to ~9 V (which is what I expect to happen).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has anyone got any idea what might be happening? Is the main board gone? Or is it an issue with just the extruder board?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30559" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-07-31T13:00:41.373" LastActivityDate="2022-01-19T22:03:10.313" Title="Anycubic i3 Mega no fans" Tags="|hotend|cooling|anycubic-i3-mega|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="17827" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-08-01T12:50:59.493" Score="2" ViewCount="240" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I'm printing buildings that are about 2-3 inches high as scenery on my Elegoo Saturn, how thick should I make the walls? We're talking square boxy-type buildings with basic surface details.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't want to make them solid because that would put a lot of material on my FEP at the same time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="29097" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-08-01T13:37:34.070" LastActivityDate="2022-08-27T16:00:25.070" Title="How thick should I make my walls for stable 3D printing on an Elegoo Saturn?" Tags="|3d-models|support-structures|elegoo-mars|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="17829" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17817" CreationDate="2021-08-02T00:51:26.210" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some 3D printing basics to look into are layer height and what angle you can build unsupported (and how high since pottery can't take tension like plastic and would likely separate from a base from weight of an overhang).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Beyond that, look into pottery basics.  How will your trapped air escape?  This should affect the slicing algorithms, and how fat a block you can build without cracking.  How will you minimize trapped air between material the printer lays?  Will the shape promote uneven heating (consider the flow of hot air and heat flowing from where it makes contact), and what can you do to avoid cracking from that?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ponder these before you try it out.  Look at the concepts separately and consider the interactions.  Look at some pictures online and ask why they chose to build that part and in that particular way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23523" LastActivityDate="2021-08-02T00:51:26.210" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="17830" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17827" CreationDate="2021-08-02T13:06:59.407" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Unless you can print the buildings upside down, limited details on roof, overhang will be more of an issue than wall thickness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15075" LastActivityDate="2021-08-02T13:06:59.407" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="17831" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-08-02T13:16:57.837" Score="3" ViewCount="2582" Body="&lt;p&gt;Recently building a new printer, I went with a Wambam PEX system.  When I began printing ABS I found it did not stick very well and eventually purchased a new build plate and a PEI sheet since PEX isn't suited to ABS.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not altering some of the setting while trying to get ABS to stick to the PEX I started printing on PEX which is gripping extremely well...too well.  Bed temp may be a few degrees too high, nozzle was giving a little too much squish.  I now have several skirts and now the base layer of a ringing tower embedded in the sheet.  What is the best way to remove these?  I was using acetone on the PEX sheet but I'm told not to use that on PEI.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just looking for into to clean the PEI sheet, please do not respond on what I should have done, or how to use PEX with glue or whatnot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25340" LastActivityDate="2021-12-29T16:43:54.537" Title="How to remove ABS from PEI Sheet" Tags="|adhesion|surface|build-surface|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="17832" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17831" CreationDate="2021-08-02T14:43:07.223" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Heat up your bed to the print temperature; maybe even as hot as 100 °C.  This will soften the ABS and make it easier to scrape off.  It will distort a print to remove it this way, but is good for cleaning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Less preferred method&lt;/strong&gt;: Acetone will dissolve ABS but may be rough on your PEI, even causing it to lose its bond.  It also evaporates very quickly and is highly flammable.  You don't want to breath the fumes.  It is now considered a carcinogen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15075" LastEditorUserId="15075" LastEditDate="2021-08-02T16:12:59.023" LastActivityDate="2021-08-02T16:12:59.023" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="17833" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17842" CreationDate="2021-08-03T01:40:33.073" Score="4" ViewCount="654" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Creality CR-10 which is running Marlin because I have a BLTouch installed. All was working fine until it suddenly had an issue where it would lose connection to the computer mid-print when another electronic device nearby was plugged in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example: when I plug in my lamp or soldering iron which is 3 meters away, it just stops (doesn't reset, just stops moving) leaving the bed and nozzle hot. The software on the printer is still functional, I can still navigate menus, etc. on the screen but the print stops and can't be resumed from Cura.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also tried Octopi but it does the exact same thing mid-print and the web interface spits out this error:&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;code&gt;device reports readiness to read but returned no data (device disconnected or multiple access on port?)&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So it seems I may have some odd interference problem, I guess it could be over the air or through the powerline? I've tried different USB cables, a different power supply for the Pi, but so far, it's still acting up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30596" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-08-03T02:13:21.947" LastActivityDate="2021-08-03T22:39:30.087" Title="CR-10 randomly loses connection to computer when printing over USB" Tags="|marlin|creality-cr-10|octoprint|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="17834" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17831" CreationDate="2021-08-03T02:37:37.627" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Heating the bed didn't help much, but Someone suggested using the flush cutters which pryed it up just enough... to get the bigger chunk off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25340" LastActivityDate="2021-08-03T02:37:37.627" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="17835" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-08-03T09:25:08.970" Score="1" ViewCount="1005" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an &lt;code&gt;Ender 3 Pro&lt;/code&gt; with a &lt;code&gt;BLTouch 3.1&lt;/code&gt; attached and I have this weird problem. Whatever I print, whether it's a 3rd party STL or my own design, the Z is always getting stretched up to a point and then it fixes itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;i.e. I printed these calibration cubes at 100% and 150%. While there is a slight wobble on the X axis, X, Y and the top half dimensions are almost perfect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ta9py.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ta9py.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Z prints higher than it should&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not sure if I had this problem prior to BLTouch installation, so I suspect that it might be messing Z jump between the layers somehow but no idea what to look for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am using TH3D's Marlin Firmware and I did nothing other than enabling the corresponding flags for BLTouch and ENDER_V44_BOARD when compiling the firmware.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The problem occurs on my custom designs and other models too, so it's definitely not the model&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I tried to use Simplify3D, Ultimaker Cura, Prusa Slic3r to slice and then print with Octoprint, Simplify3D or Pronterface, it didn't make a difference.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I calibrated the E steps, so I am not no under or over-extruding.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I also tried to re-calibrate the Z steps so the height would match, which it did but didn't solve the problem. I now have a squished top half and a weird looking print.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The steps/mm values were at default, X80, Y80 and Z400 - as described, reducing the Z to 320 to compensate the height difference didn't help. See the picture below.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6vRkd.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6vRkd.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Squished top half after reducing the Z steps&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am pretty much stuck at this point, so I'd appreciate any guidance very much!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30599" LastActivityDate="2021-08-03T11:14:04.223" Title="First half of the prints are getting stretched on the Z axis" Tags="|creality-ender-3|z-axis|bltouch|layer-height|th3d|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="17836" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17835" CreationDate="2021-08-03T10:18:07.737" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It seems the &lt;code&gt;DEFAULT_LEVELING_FADE_HEIGHT&lt;/code&gt; of the TH3D firmware was causing the issue, which was something I was aware of but didn't think that it would cause this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I set it to zero and then re-printed the calibration cube. It came out with the dimensions of 20 mm x 20 mm x 20.1 mm, which was incredibly accurate for the setup I have.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Related: &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/16793/creality-ender-3-pro-z-travel-issue-with-th3d-firmware&quot;&gt;Creality Ender 3 Pro - Z travel issue with TH3D firmware&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30599" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-08-03T11:14:04.223" LastActivityDate="2021-08-03T11:14:04.223" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="17838" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-08-03T14:09:29.890" Score="1" ViewCount="695" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm likely to need to print some parts from TPU (Shore 95A or harder) in the near future.  I have everything I need to do a direct drive conversion using the original extruder on a bracket above the hot end -- but for most of my printing (PLA and PETG), this setup isn't required or even optimal, because of the extra moving mass on the X carriage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It looks as if, once I have the bracket installed the first time, I can move the extruder (including adding/removing a wire extension and switching between full length Bowden tube and short coupler tube) in less than an hour -- in addition to the time I'd need to clear one material from the hot end before loading the other, of course.  Is it practical at all to swap the extruder back and forth like this, on the assumption that I'll want/need to print TPU parts from time to time (I'll want softer material, too, since some of what I want TPU capability for is gaskets).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously, if I needed to print TPU alongside PLA on a regular basis, I might be ahead to have a second printer, but space considerations, more than money, work against that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Am I missing something on the effort needed to swap the extruder position back and forth (suggesting I should stick with direct drive and pursue firmware and tuning solutions to correct the accompanying problems with faster printing), or should I plan to do this as needed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28508" LastActivityDate="2021-08-04T20:22:20.363" Title="Is it practical to switch back and forth between Bowden and direct drive?" Tags="|creality-ender-3|direct-drive|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="17840" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17859" CreationDate="2021-08-03T19:31:43.540" Score="3" ViewCount="2743" Body="&lt;p&gt;Let me preface this with me being quite a newbie to 3D printing, however, I am an engineer and coder, so tinkering with stuff like this is quite the norm for me.  Don't be afraid to be too technical, knowledge is power!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I recently purchased a new Creality Ender 3 V2 based on a friend's recommendation and within a week or two, started getting terrible screeching from the print head fan.  I already knew I wanted to get better PETG (and in the future, TPU) prints so I went ahead and bought a direct drive extruder (BIQU H2) to replace the Bowden setup.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I got everything tuned pretty well (or so I thought), which included tuning the E-steps (945 which is 10x the original value of 93, however normal for this BIQU H2), my home position, changing the retraction setting, setting my K-factor for linear advance, tuning PID, etc.  I flashed these settings into a custom Jyers Marlin firmware.  Everything was working fine, and I was starting to get some really high-quality calibration tests, so I then began tuning my slicer profile.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then, yesterday, all of a sudden it is no longer printing correctly, even older G-code files before I messed with the slicer settings.  It prints the prime line, retracts, moves, prints the brim, then retracts again, but doesn't start extruding to actually print the model.  I've tried multiple G-code files that were working, and seem to get the same results, nothing prints beyond the first layer retraction or two.  There is no clicking/vibrating or any attempts to move the extruder again after it stops printing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After some more reading, it seems that maybe I should have adjusted the vRef on extruder driver pots, as the new stepper motor is 0.8a (I believe the original 4042 extruder is 2a).  Is it possible I damaged my stepper driver for the extruder?  From my understanding, it would be moving at 10x the speed of the old stepper attached to the Bowden tube extruder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some things I have done:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Completely rebuilt the BIQU H2.  There is no sign of jamming or that there has ever been a jam.  The gears all move smoothly with no areas with additional resistance.  The PTFE heatbreak was clear and freely allowed filament through.  Once re-assembled, I can freely turn the extruder gear when heated and the stepper disabled, and I can extrude/retract using the printer GUI (even after a failed print).  I also checked to make sure the gear was firmly attached to the stepper motor while apart, and it was.  I also added some gear lubricant while I was in there.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tried a print with the BIQU H2 stepper detached and the wires attached to the old 4042 stepper (and adjusted the steps back to 93).  It seems to stop moving the stepper in about the same place, so I don't believe the issue has to do with the stepper motor which has led me to believe this must be firmware or driver related.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tried letting the printer sit idle overnight, thinking maybe it was just an overheated driver after running calibration tests almost continuously for 2 days.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tried printing the same known working G-code with the speed adjusted to 25% and 50%, the same issue occurs around the same position in the print process.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For reference, I have an Ender 3 V2 with a 4.2.2 Motherboard.  I'm not sure what stepper drivers it uses as there seems to be conflicting info online and I don't really want to remove the heatsinks if possible (but I will if I need to get this info and can't obtain it directly from the firmware).  Unfortunately, the drivers are soldered to the motherboard so I guess I will need a new motherboard if I destroyed the extrusion driver.  I do feel I probably should have made some driver adjustments given this stepper motor is 40% the amps, and runs at 10x the speed of the old stepper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm sort of at a loss as to what to try next, any thoughts would be appreciated.  I plan on flashing the stock firmware back later this evening to see if that helps, but I doubt it will.  I have only made some small tweaks mainly related to home offset, build area, PID tune, and K-factor for linear advance (which were previously working fine).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit:&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;I did some further testing yesterday.  Flashing back to stock firmware didn't help at all.  It also seems I may have been mistaken as further testing of the old 4042 stepper was successful if I attached it to the motherboard and ran the G-code which fails on the first layer, however I attached it with a spare cable as to not have to take apart my harness going to the X carriage.  Using the same spare cable with the BIQU H2 unfortunately did not help.  The issue is reproducible without any filament loaded at all as well.  There is an ever so slight play in the motor drive, so I am going to disassemble the extruder again tonight and see if the issue is reproducible with the motor detached from the extruder drivetrain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, just an interesting point, but multiple times after the failure I quickly checked the temp of the heatsinks on the drivers.  Ironically, the only &amp;quot;hot&amp;quot; ones were the X/Y/Z steppers, and the extruder driver was only warm.  Also, when the issue happens, the stepper becomes completely disengaged (I can turn the wheel freely without feeling the resistance of the stepper holding the position).  Not sure if this is indicative of a driver failure, or standard practice for the driver if it encounters significant resistance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another interesting point, the motherboard was not grounded.  Although attached indirectly to the frame using screws, the panel the motherboard was attached to was not making contact with the frame.  Some minor sanding resolved this issue.  Once done, I notice the exterior case of my Y motor is grounded, but the X and Z as well as the extruder do not seem to be grounded.  Is it typical for the exterior of the motors to be grounded?  Perhaps there are some other ground faults I need to sort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30605" LastEditorUserId="36802" LastEditDate="2023-11-23T13:23:00.513" LastActivityDate="2023-11-23T13:23:00.513" Title="Extruder stops printing before finishing first layer (Ender 3 v2 w/BIQU H2)" Tags="|creality-ender-3|extruder|extrusion|extruder-driver|jyers|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="17841" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-08-03T20:18:37.000" Score="1" ViewCount="80" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am not sure what this error is called but would like to learn how to correct it. There is an error at the very top of the print, and then the lower layers at the bottom of the top section.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Printing one of the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:845449&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Low poly tree sculptures&lt;/a&gt; from Thingiverse and had no issues with it until I got to the top section of the tree (see photos).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Maker Select V2&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Atomic PLA&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Temp 200 °C / 60 °C&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;20 % Infill&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Print speed 50 mm/s&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jYSdR.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Upclose photo of an error on printed model&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jYSdR.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Upclose photo of an error on printed model&quot; title=&quot;Upclose photo of an error on printed model&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4koJr.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Top of model showing printing error&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4koJr.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Top of model showing printing error&quot; title=&quot;Top of model showing printing error&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30607" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-08-04T05:40:02.993" LastActivityDate="2021-08-06T07:32:34.213" Title="What is this printing error and how can it be fixed?" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|troubleshooting|monoprice-maker-select|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="17842" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17833" CreationDate="2021-08-03T21:47:43.940" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had similar issues when I first started, and I think you are on the right track with interference being a problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a giant bin of USB cables and started going through them.  Only 2 worked out of about 20, and 1 of those 2 was intermittent with disconnect issues.  The one that ended up working had gold plated leads and was about 8&amp;quot; long.  I assume it probably has some additional shielding of the wires inside as well but I can't say for sure.  It seems that the USB connection is very sensitive to interference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, if it is anything like my Ender 3 V2, you will probably want to use Kapton or electrical tape on the last pin (+5v) of the USB plug, otherwise the display and motherboard kept powered on after turning off the printer's power supply (it was being powered over the USB cable).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another suggestion would be to isolate the printer power supply from other devices (for example using a UPS made for a PC).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30605" LastActivityDate="2021-08-03T21:47:43.940" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="17844" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-08-04T05:56:58.530" Score="2" ViewCount="226" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've recently changed my Ender3's hotend to E3D v6 clone with Titan direct extruder, so I can print faster than on stock. But when I increased the speed up to 70 mm/s for walls and 80 mm/s for infill (PETG, nozzle temperature of 225 °C, bed temperature of 80 °C, 0.2 mm layer height, 0.4 mm layer width), I've faced this kind of issue:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ipyUr.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;3D printer printing a model with errors&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ipyUr.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;3D printer printing a model with errors&quot; title=&quot;3D printer printing a model with errors&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's how it looks in Cura:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/668ki.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Screenshot of Cura's preview of model&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/668ki.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Screenshot of Cura's preview of model&quot; title=&quot;Screenshot of Cura's preview of model&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The printer's head goes from left to right, counter-clockwise and I get issues on both exits from curved shape.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AMZUz.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Another Cura preview further into the print with arrows indicating problem areas&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AMZUz.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Another Cura preview further into the print with arrows indicating problem areas&quot; title=&quot;Another Cura preview further into the print with arrows indicating problem areas&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First of all, I thought, it is connected somehow with retraction, but according to Cura, both problem places are in the middle of the current layer. Later I thought it could be related to Linear Advance and disabled it on the next test print, but it did nothing:( Slowing the printer down to 60-65 % in mid print solved the issue, but it's not what I changed the hotend for:)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maybe someone has any ideas, what's wrong with it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30570" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-08-06T05:37:22.470" LastActivityDate="2021-08-06T05:52:52.573" Title="Extrusion issues on medium speeds (while accelerating?)" Tags="|creality-ender-3|marlin|e3d-v6|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="17845" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-08-04T10:44:46.793" Score="3" ViewCount="1706" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to plug in my drivers from the printer into my Raspberry Pi. I want to control the printer's axes by sending G-code directly from the Raspberry Pi command line (if possible) to the drivers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is that possible and if yes does anyone know how? As I stated above without using any 3rd party program/software.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30614" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-08-04T11:20:01.347" LastActivityDate="2021-08-16T17:36:45.763" Title="How to send G-Code directly from a Raspberry Pi to my printer without using any extra program/software" Tags="|raspberry-pi|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="17846" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17844" CreationDate="2021-08-04T11:24:42.187" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;In other words, your print exhibits issues when the hotend is accelerating, like if not enough filament were pushed in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is advised to calibrate for linear advance after replacing the extruder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check &lt;a href=&quot;https://marlinfw.org/docs/features/lin_advance.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://marlinfw.org/docs/features/lin_advance.html&lt;/a&gt; and&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/n3yK0lJ8TWM?start=0&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and check &lt;a href=&quot;https://marlinfw.org/tools/lin_advance/k-factor.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://marlinfw.org/tools/lin_advance/k-factor.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2338" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-08-06T05:52:52.573" LastActivityDate="2021-08-06T05:52:52.573" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="17847" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17838" CreationDate="2021-08-04T13:07:44.270" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It depends on the level of automation you are willing to implement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Bowden extruder, including the motor, from the Ender 3 which I think you have (but in general, any Bowden extruder) does not need to be moved at all, since it's not on the printing head. You just need to disconnect the Bowden from the hot end and clip it somewhere safe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The direct drive extruder, if you have a supporting plate which makes it as a single part, can be disconnected with a couple of screws and hanged somewhere nearby.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on the knowledge of electronics you could set up a very cheap relay array (4 relays) all controlled by a single GPIO pin of your motherboard, so that you can switch the motor with a GCODE command. The relay would have the COM going to the stepper driver, the NO connected to the direct drive motor, the NC to the Bowden motor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Write GCODE macros to change the current, linear advance, steps/mm settings depending on the activation of the relay board (or, even better, depending on the filament).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, if money is not an issue, I would consider an Orbiter or a Sherpa mini extruder, which is direct drive but with 120 gram weight (including motor, not including hot end) can be used all the time. You are likely not going to push the X acceleration to the very very maximum you can, so you get direct drive at no performance cost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2338" LastActivityDate="2021-08-04T13:07:44.270" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="17848" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-08-04T16:11:16.167" Score="4" ViewCount="3257" Body="&lt;p&gt;Printer: Ender 3 Pro - Direct drive, BLTouch, stock magnetic print bed surface&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Material: PLA - multiple brands&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Slicer Settings:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Layer Height .2 mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Initial Layer Height .1 mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Line Width .4 mm (with .4 mm nozzle) and also tried .39 mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wall thickness 1.2 mm (3 lines)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hot End 210 °C&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bed 60 °C&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Print Speed tried between 40 and 100 mm/s&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Retraction Distance 6 mm  speed 25 mm/s&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Print Cooling- Initial 3 layers 0 %, then 100 %, also tried 50 %&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I designed this in Tinkercad and sliced it with Cura for the Ender 3 Pro.  When I print this specific shape at this size the outer wall does not print properly, there are large gaps and it does not bond to the rest of the model so it just flakes off as soon as you handle it.  I can print other shapes fine- see the color swap example that was printed with the same settings successfully before AND after this series of failed prints of the same design.  Sometimes I get a clean first 15 layers then it goes to crap, and cleans up for the last 10% or so.  If I scale it down to 50 % it prints fine, but it will NOT print properly at full scale.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The infill and inner walls seem fine, but the walls are definitely not air-tight with what is left.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looking for more things to try and troubleshoot, so please send me your ideas!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Troubleshooting steps so far:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Re-downloaded the files and resliced with all new settings&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Adjusted the print speed, wall line width and fan speeds&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tried multiple PLA types and brands&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4D9iC.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Printed model with printing errors&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4D9iC.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Printed model with printing errors&quot; title=&quot;Printed model with printing errors&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BNu8J.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Printed model without printing errors&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BNu8J.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Printed model without printing errors&quot; title=&quot;Printed model without printing errors&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30617" LastEditorUserId="30645" LastEditDate="2021-08-06T02:14:46.200" LastActivityDate="2021-08-13T11:12:46.207" Title="Why is my outer wall layer printing with gaps and flaking off on this specific shape?" Tags="|creality-ender-3|print-quality|pla|troubleshooting|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="17850" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17844" CreationDate="2021-08-04T17:55:37.007" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;PETG can have difficulty printing at higher speeds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/13412/why-does-petg-require-slower-speed&quot;&gt;Why does PETG require slower speed?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, if the speed is too slow, it tends to have heat creep.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/15629/what-are-ways-to-avoid-heat-creep&quot;&gt;What are ways to avoid heat creep?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Higher nozzle temperatures should allow faster print speeds, but will also increase the chance of heat creep and increase the slowest required speed to prevent heat creep.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15075" LastActivityDate="2021-08-04T17:55:37.007" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="17851" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17838" CreationDate="2021-08-04T20:22:20.363" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;With some engineering, you could consider creating a tool dock version where you can easily screw off the Bowden driven hotend and screw on the direct driven hotend. You'll only need to have an extension stepper cable to connect the direct drive stepper and pluggable hotend heater and thermistor connections.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;E.g. for the Ender printers, there are Voron Afterburner tool heads that are Bowden driven or direct driven (Clockwork or Galileo mods) available. These could be switched very easily, you do need to figure something out to plug the heater cartridge and thermistor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;I'm doing something similar to my Hypercube Evolution where I am creating a Bowden driven 2.85 mm and a 1.75 mm direct driven tool head.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2021-08-04T20:22:20.363" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="17852" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-08-04T21:14:12.340" Score="1" ViewCount="332" Body="&lt;p&gt;I’ve had this Ender 3 V2 for about 6 months, and it has been printing great, but every now and then I will get a brittle messed up top on my prints. I can simply crush these tops by just touching them, they are super weak. The odd thing is it does not happen on every print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30628" LastActivityDate="2021-08-06T08:03:03.050" Title="Ender 3 V2 printing weak and messing up on the top 1/3 of the print" Tags="|creality-ender-3|print-quality|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="17853" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-08-05T04:40:46.287" Score="3" ViewCount="721" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm just learning how to use a 3D printer, I have an Anycubic Mega Zero 2.0.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I start printing the PLA filament doesn't want to adhere very well. I have leveled it out and all of my corners on my test print adhere well. However, when I go to print anything besides the test print I get basically a small bead - it doesn't smooth flat. If I try and adjust from there it starts pushing all the material around.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This lack of adhesion and bead continue throughout the print making it flimsy. It's weird because it looks nice but it's not strong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8CAGr.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Print on bed&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8CAGr.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Print on bed&quot; title=&quot;Print on bed&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XIqlp.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Flimsy printed filament&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XIqlp.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Flimsy printed filament&quot; title=&quot;Flimsy printed filament&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HfpdH.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Finished print&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HfpdH.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Finished print&quot; title=&quot;Finished print&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/R6PeV.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Base of finished print&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/R6PeV.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Base of finished print&quot; title=&quot;Base of finished print&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30634" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2021-08-05T05:53:13.107" LastActivityDate="2021-09-20T00:02:50.827" Title="Thin bead not adhering to itself or bed very well, what am I doing wrong" Tags="|print-quality|pla|adhesion|bed|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="17854" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17853" CreationDate="2021-08-05T05:38:08.237" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you look at the multiple lines of the skirt, you see that none of the printed lines are touching the other laid down lines. This is an indication for under extrusion or a too large of a gap between the nozzle and the bed (or both). Considering you are talking about a bead/drop/blob of hot filament not adhering to the bed, this might be a good indication for a too large of a distance, if the gap is too large, the filament will not adhere to the bed and forms a blob. You could consider decreasing the gap by leveling with a thinner piece of paper or feeler gauge first. An alternative that might be quick to test is to re-define the bed height prior to printing using a plug-in in Ultimaker Cura or manually inserted in your G-code file. E.g. in you start code, add a move to a certain height and define that to a different height:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;G1 Z0.2 ; move printer head to 0.2 mm height&#xA;G92 Z0.24 ; re-define 0.2 to 0.24 mm, if the first layer prints at e.g. 0.2 mm,&#xA;          ; the printer will move down 0.04 mm&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The images aren't very sharp, but, from one of the top layers it looks like you are indeed suffering from under extrusion. First, check if the filament can unwind freely without too much force from the spool. Second, under extrusion should be fixed by &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/6484/5740&quot;&gt;adjusting the steps per millimeter value&lt;/a&gt;. Beware, a new printer should have the correct value already inserted in the firmware, you should definitely check the filament path for obstructions first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A glass bed should be pretty flat, but it has been reported that there are glass manufacturers that produce low quality glass beds with dents. If so, you could shim the middle of the heated bed. An alternative is to flash new firmware and mesh the glass bed and the printer will automatically adjust for the height; this is not recommended for beginners.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could also increase the temperature of the bed, PLA can be printed on a cold prepared bed, but works very well on beds at 50-60 °C. You could consider using an adhesive on the glass as well, certain hairsprays, certain glue sticks, and special adhesive print sprays like 3DLAC work very well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Last but not least, incorrect filament diameter can cause under extrusion, older versions of Cura are notorious for resetting the filament diameter to 2.85 mm when you need e.g. 1.75 mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-08-07T21:18:08.703" LastActivityDate="2021-08-07T21:18:08.703" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="17855" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-08-05T13:26:38.380" Score="2" ViewCount="344" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Tevo Tornado, it seemingly connects fine, it is recognised by the software and it turns on.&#xA;Any command I send over USB is not executed, as if it's not registering them.&#xA;I tried on Cura and Pronterface and the printer is unresponsive.&#xA;In particular in Pronterface it displays:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;echo:busy: processing&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;but nothing is executed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;This is part of a broader set of problems I am trying to diagnose on the printer; most of them are explained in &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/16790/my-3d-printer-checks-axes-home-during-print-often-wrecking-the-print&quot;&gt;this question&lt;/a&gt;.&#xA;I am trying to section off the individual problems and fix, bit by bit, the whole printer.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="29451" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-08-06T06:00:20.467" LastActivityDate="2021-08-06T06:00:20.467" Title="My printer does not execute any command over USB" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|g-code|firmware|pronterface|tevo-tornado|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="17856" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15109" CreationDate="2021-08-05T14:19:34.160" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had the same problem (Cura v4.9.1). What fixed it for me was switching to a different &lt;strong&gt;Method&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the screen where you set up the pause, the 3rd dropbox is &lt;strong&gt;Method&lt;/strong&gt;. Set this to &lt;code&gt;BQ (M25)&lt;/code&gt;. That did the trick for me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As I understand it, it mimics a pause like what you get with the pause you would execute using the menu on the printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14854" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-08-05T17:27:59.973" LastActivityDate="2021-08-05T17:27:59.973" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="17857" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17845" CreationDate="2021-08-05T14:30:34.597" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can send the data to the serial port using &lt;code&gt;echo&lt;/code&gt;, but you'll have to use &lt;code&gt;cat&lt;/code&gt; to get the response.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12857" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2021-08-05T14:56:59.227" LastActivityDate="2021-08-05T14:56:59.227" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="17859" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17840" CreationDate="2021-08-05T17:29:17.357" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Okay, so after yet another frustrating night of troubleshooting.  I believe I have identified the specific problem.  I reduced the G-code file to about 100 lines of code, that 100% reproduced the issue on the BIQU H2 stepper.  With the original 4042 stepper, the problem was intermittent, but did occur from time to time in the same part of the print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I pulled the motor from the transmission on the BIQU H2 and observed the issue happen without it attached to the extruder and it still failed at the same place (so confirmed it wasn't an issue with the extruder/clogging/etc).  This specific place in the G-code had many quick short movements of the extruder.  Commenting out this block of code allowed it to get past, until it did similar movements on the next layer.  This pointed me to it having to be an issue with either the stepper (which tested fine on my ohm meter, so unlikely), the controller, or the firmware.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Long story short: &lt;strong&gt;It was Linear Advance being enabled in the firmware.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was too hasty to initially disregard the firmware being at fault.  When I retested the original firmware, it was unusable as my offsets have changed with the new print head, so I rebuilt the Jyers Marlin with just a couple small changes for changing the homing as the original Jyers builds works fine.  However I missed that I still had my Linear Advance settings enabled.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After doing some searching regarding Linear Advance and extruder motors, it seems this is a known issue with certain TMC drivers, and my board is one that can potentially have these drivers installed.  It seems the &amp;quot;stealthChop&amp;quot; feature within the drivers causes issues with Linear Advance.  It sounds like it can be disabled via UART but I do not believe there is any interface to the UART of the individual controller chips exposed to my mtherboard.  I believe I will probably need to swap motherboards if I want to be able to use Linear Advance.  I'm still pretty new to 3D printing, so maybe I don't need LA at all, however it did seem to make a positive impact on my prints before I ran into these issues which is why I had it enabled.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some related references I found:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/KevinOConnor/klipper/issues/196#issuecomment-383122655&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://github.com/KevinOConnor/klipper/issues/196#issuecomment-383122655&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.reddit.com/r/ender3/comments/bncr8w/silent_board_and_linear_advance/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.reddit.com/r/ender3/comments/bncr8w/silent_board_and_linear_advance/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30605" LastActivityDate="2021-08-05T17:29:17.357" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="17860" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17883" CreationDate="2021-08-05T19:04:23.157" Score="2" ViewCount="3459" Body="&lt;p&gt;I purchased a bottle of Siraya-Tech Simple Clear and Siraya-Tech has good documents on their resins with printing guidelines like for the simple clear (see their &lt;a href=&quot;https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1iuBy5ahTw75F8X5uSQopIZDgiOFadZvOHkgwI3fpynY/edit#gid=0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Simple User Guide&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This gives good curing times for different types of resin printers, but they are all listed for 50 microns layer height. If I wanted to print at different layer heights, I am assuming the curing times would need to be adjusted, but I don't have a good feel for how much they would need to change.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My first print was the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:533652&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Make: Rook Resin Printer Torture Piece&lt;/a&gt;, and given how short it was, I thought I would try pushing things to the limit and printed it at a 10-micron layer height, but I used the curing times in the guide above for the Elegoo Mars (figured it was the most similar to my actual printer the Halot-One), and as soon as I started the print I realized that I probably should have changed the layer exposure times. I was shocked how well it turned out for using the times for a 50-micron print, but there were parts of the print that looked like there may have been a little bit of light bleed because of the longer exposures for the thickness, and the print definitely took a long time for how small of a print it was.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, my question is, if I have good times for a 50-micron print, are there rules of thumb out there, or have experiments been done, for how much to adjust the exposure times if you want to do a 10-micron print, or say a 100-micron print? I would imagine it's not as simple as reducing it by 5x for a 10-micron print or doubling it for a 100-micron print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Key parameters that would need to be adjusted:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Exposure for initial layers&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Number of initial layers&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Layer exposure time&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30646" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-08-05T19:43:01.533" LastActivityDate="2021-08-08T21:10:24.267" Title="Adjusting layer exposure time for different layer thicknesses" Tags="|resin|layer-height|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="17861" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13752" CreationDate="2021-08-05T22:38:46.793" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As the auto-install from the Marketplace described in &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/13753&quot;&gt;this answer&lt;/a&gt; wasn't working , I did have to manually install the MKS WiFi plugin on my Mac (M1 MBPro).  To do this I just:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Downloaded the GitHub files (from the plugin webpage, linked in the Marketplace)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Right-clicked the Cura icon in the Applications folder, to show&#xA;package contents&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I then went into the macOS folder and followed the plugin link&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Copy the downloaded GitHub files&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Restart Cura&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I then just followed the printer setup advice in Cura from &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/13753&quot;&gt;this answer&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No more messing around with SD cards :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30648" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-08-06T05:25:58.297" LastActivityDate="2021-08-06T05:25:58.297" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="17862" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17844" CreationDate="2021-08-06T01:16:44.463" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my experience, 225 °C is the lower range for PETG, that combined with a higher than normal printing speed of 70 mm/s might be your issue. The lower your print temps the lower the maximum nozzle flow rate. I would recommend increasing the nozzle temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a point of reference, on my printer with an E3D v6 clone and a generic extruder I print PETG at 235 °C and 60 mm/s and 24 mm/s outer perimeter speed, with a 0.2 mm layer thickness. Though admittedly not optimized for speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30645" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-08-06T02:05:13.360" LastActivityDate="2021-08-06T02:05:13.360" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="17863" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17848" CreationDate="2021-08-06T04:44:53.820" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You appear to have severe underextrusion. It may be that you are trying to melt plastic faster than your printer can physically accomplish which would explain why it starts good and then the nozzle gets cold and then as the layers get small it comes good.&#xA;That doesn't explain why reducing the print speed doesn't help. Double check that it is actually slower.&#xA;I have had similar issues with cura that were fixed by altering the configuration, like tilting the model slightly or changing print orientation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30649" LastEditorUserId="30649" LastEditDate="2021-08-06T05:24:47.627" LastActivityDate="2021-08-06T05:24:47.627" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="17864" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15985" CreationDate="2021-08-06T06:29:43.753" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;What helps for me is &lt;strong&gt;re-inserting the TF card&lt;/strong&gt; several times. Indeed, the machine has some trouble reading it, strange because this would seem to be an easy problem compared to the overall design of the printer....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30652" LastActivityDate="2021-08-06T06:29:43.753" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="17865" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-08-06T06:35:29.173" Score="2" ViewCount="48" Body="&lt;p&gt;While doing the setup of a new machine I printed a small retraction test which showed that layers at different heights present a varying section. The whole area of the layer is expanding and contracting similarly in both the x and y directions and simultaneously in both the towers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/O9GPB.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/O9GPB.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NVwk2.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NVwk2.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The layer area is very small and &lt;strong&gt;I did not see the same effect printing larger parts&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The printer has a long bowden tube, and that may be a source of a number of weird behaviors. But what I like to think is a squish resonance: let's say that for any reason (even a mechanical one) the height of a layer is slightly larger, the deposed material will not get squished out as far as for the previous layer, resulting in a slightly taller layer but with smaller cross section. Depending on how the situation evolves, we may hit the opposite case few layers later, with the top of the print that has raised close to the nozzle so the layers now are getting squished more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I could do several more tests with other temperatures, different filaments... but it is quite a corner case, so I do not really need to invest a bunch of time studying it, still I would like to get a better understanding of the phenomenon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23698" LastActivityDate="2021-08-06T06:35:29.173" Title="Weird layer cross section resonances" Tags="|fdm|bowden|layer-height|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="17866" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17841" CreationDate="2021-08-06T07:25:57.653" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This looks a lot like inadequate cooling as others suggested. A important aspect to consider is how long the printer spends on a single layer in the trubble areas and how big that area is. The faster a given layer the less time it has to cool. The smaller that area more time the hot nozzle spends in that vicinity heating the surrounding already printed plastic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some simple options to fix the issue:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If it's adjustable make sure part cooling is enabled by the slicer and that it's at the maximum fan speed at the issue areas.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Print additional parts to lengthen the print time at the troublesome Z heights.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Slow the print speed. However this can backfire if its too slow as the hot nozzle will remain in the same area for even longer and some extruders can jam if the flow of cool plastic is too low, causing heat to climb past the heat break.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Add a external fan to the increase flow of fresh cool air to the area.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Reduce nozzle temperature. Can be combined with slower speed as a slower flow rate of plastic can reduce the minimum required print temperature.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Add perimeter loops to the print to increase print time. This might not be as effective for a small area as it only adds more heat in a localized area.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A more permanent solution would be to improve the cooling by modifying the ducting or fans. However do be weary of untested fancy fan shrouds reported to improve the air flow as it is easy to make it worse then it was.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30645" LastEditorUserId="30645" LastEditDate="2021-08-06T07:32:34.213" LastActivityDate="2021-08-06T07:32:34.213" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="17867" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17852" CreationDate="2021-08-06T08:03:03.050" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most likely this is a symptom of an under extrusion issue.&#xA;Could be heat-creep. Could be caused by a overly aggressive auto cooling setting where the minimum layer time is set so low that heat has time to climb up the filament and heat break causing a jam. Or other related reason such as the print speed is very low at a specific point in the print. This type jam can self recover with a temperature cycle of the nozzle so might not be noticed as the next print could be started without any intervention to clear it. The weak area of plastic could simplify be what oozed out of the nozzle after the jam.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given the limited information I cant say much as to the cause.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30645" LastActivityDate="2021-08-06T08:03:03.050" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="17868" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17853" CreationDate="2021-08-06T19:46:35.700" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This looks exactly like you are extruding less plastic then you should be. Gaps can be seen on the top &amp;quot;solid&amp;quot; infill layer and even more telling is the gaps from one perimeter loop to the other. Suffering from weak prints is another indication of this. (or low extruder temps)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may find solving the under extrusion issue goes a long way to assist with the bed adhesion issues you are having. I would recommend you first solve that and then see if the bed adhesion issue is still present. At the very least it should make is easier to dial in the bed adhesion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If any slicer changes or tuning was done a quick and easy sanity check would be to download and run a print with known good profiles for your model of printer. It's easy to chase and tune for one issue and unknowingly create another that shows up at a later time in a different print, especially if you are new to 3d printing. (ask me how I know)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30645" LastEditorUserId="30645" LastEditDate="2021-08-08T01:40:46.010" LastActivityDate="2021-08-08T01:40:46.010" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="17869" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17848" CreationDate="2021-08-06T22:57:59.613" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Assuming you do have a direct drive system as described.&#xA;Is this correct?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Retraction Distance 6 mm speed 25 mm/s&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A retraction distance of 6 mm for direct a drive is huge and could easily be pulling the filament out so far it might become problematic. Most of my direct drive printers are 0.4 to 1 mm. In addition the 25 mm/s appears to me to be on the low side, though it would not surprise me if it's highly extruder specific. Most of my retraction speeds are 60 to 90 mm/s.&#xA;Faster retraction speeds can actually be more effective at stringing reduction then adding distance as. Faster travel will also reduce stringing as the nozzle has less time to ooze.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are you incorrectly a using a Bowden profile?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30645" LastEditorUserId="30645" LastEditDate="2021-08-07T22:18:24.400" LastActivityDate="2021-08-07T22:18:24.400" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="17870" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-08-06T23:21:25.113" Score="5" ViewCount="26774" Body="&lt;p&gt;A few weeks ago I got a thermal runaway message on my modded Ender 3 during a print, and I have not been able to get it working since then! I have tried fixing and replacing everything, and I still keep getting the message!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the printer starts/heats up, the thermistor is able to read the temperature with no problem, but when a print starts, the thermistor starts reading strangely and I get the thermal runaway message! Basically, whenever I start a print the temperature being read slowly drops until it gets to around 20 degrees below the set temperature. I then get the thermal runaway message.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So far, in an attempt to fix it, I have replaced the thermistor twice, the heating element, the wiring was replaced, the firmware and even the entire motherboard! I have no idea how/why I’m still having the message, it just doesn’t make sense.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, the thermistor is snuggly attached to the printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please note I’ve tried another thermistor that was glass and had the exact same issues. This lead me to think that this had something to do with the heating element being overwhelmed by something. So, as a test I simply just extruded filament from my nozzle with my fan on to see if that would have the same effect and it didn’t! The temperature stayed up fine. This is leading me to believe that this is some sort of issue with starting a print. Maybe a G-code issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30669" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-08-08T21:04:54.890" LastActivityDate="2023-07-05T11:44:04.503" Title="Why do I keep getting a thermal runaway message?" Tags="|creality-ender-3|thermistor|thermal-runaway|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="17871" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17870" CreationDate="2021-08-06T23:33:47.797" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the error only happens when the printer starts moving it's logical that the issue is in the wire loom that starts to bend and flex once the print starts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a quick test and if your comfortable with a little wiring work a temporarily line could be connected directly from the sensor to board. Skipping rewiring the loom until its confirmed to be the issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Same logic for the heater wires if it has a connector at the extruder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another potential cause for this is if the extruder is already near printing temperature and a new print is started, the printer could think that the temperature shot up way faster then expected even though in reality it was just a bit preheated. If you made any changes to your start G-code, like changing the heating command type or order in witch the extruder/bed is heated, see this stack: &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/13353/thermal-runaway-triggers-when-raising-temperature-amid-cooldown?rq=1&quot;&gt;Thermal runaway triggers when raising temperature amid cooldown&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JcG7fIcF24k&amp;amp;ab_channel=DaHaiZhu&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;This video&lt;/a&gt; demonstrates a test to show if Thermal Runaway is enabled. While this setting is not in question here it might be a way to troubleshoot the underling cause for this kind of issue. If the extruder temperatures drop rapidly the same way it does when a print is attempted it might show that the temperature sensor is reading the correct temperature. And thus may indicate a issue with the extruder heating system and not the temperature sensor itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30645" LastEditorUserId="30645" LastEditDate="2021-08-08T22:45:26.870" LastActivityDate="2021-08-08T22:45:26.870" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="17872" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-08-07T02:19:28.570" Score="2" ViewCount="685" Body="&lt;p&gt;I’ve just bought an Ender 3 Pro (my first printer). I followed a video guide on YouTube and set everything up. I had to flash the latest firmware because my system wouldn’t boot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now I have zero movements in any of the X, Y, and Z motors. All my tolerances are correct, all is fastened as it should be and tightened, including the bearings and the belts. The system will not auto-home, it gives me a fail message and asks me to reset the printer. The motors will not move when I try them manually via the 0.1, 1, and 10 mm options. I have checked all of my connections and swapped cables around (X to Z and vice versa).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am at a loss, and honestly so frustrated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30671" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-08-07T03:05:07.973" LastActivityDate="2022-09-02T04:10:11.017" Title="Ender 3 motors zero movement" Tags="|creality-ender-3|troubleshooting|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="17873" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17872" CreationDate="2021-08-07T04:54:11.927" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would recommend attempting a reinstall of the default factory firmware. If you're getting zero function or movement from the printer and you have double checked connections it's highly likely this is purely a firmware issue of some kind that a reinstall could resolve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As commented can you confirm that no matter the sources of the move command not a single motor moves or even tries to move? In the interest to rule out an issue other then the electronics and firmware.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Before going through the trouble and risk of a firmware update contacting the seller first likely would have been a better first option.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30645" LastEditorUserId="30645" LastEditDate="2021-08-08T01:28:33.307" LastActivityDate="2021-08-08T01:28:33.307" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="17874" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-08-07T11:50:20.097" Score="2" ViewCount="91" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've developed a master plate for my hobby woodwork (approx. 40x40x40 mm, see the figure). Its goal is to allow a straight angle while drilling 40 mm parallel bars. Four vertical holes are used to fix a 6 mm drilling bit in the perpendicular position. I use a low-power screw gun for drilling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I ordered this part and I am mostly happy with the result, but I think I've failed to choose the right material for printing. I started with ordinary ABS (100 % filling) and see the following issue with the tool. After a couple of dozens of drilling, the main holes become elliptic which leads to worse precision. I am not sure about the reason:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sometimes, I see plastic chips, but quite rare.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I think that the drilling friction can make the material more flexible due to a raising of temperature, leading to the deformation of the holes while they are hot and under mechanical pressure.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I believe that this issue can be solved by choosing the proper material to produce the tool. Unfortunately, I've failed to find a good answer by Googling it on my own.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What would be a general recommendation for choosing material for such kinds of tools?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lzVXP.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Computer generated image of tool jig&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lzVXP.png&quot; alt=&quot;Computer generated image of tool jig&quot; title=&quot;Computer generated image of tool jig&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30623" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-08-07T12:34:46.540" LastActivityDate="2021-08-07T12:34:46.540" Title="Proper material for a drilling master plate" Tags="|print-material|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="17875" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17874" CreationDate="2021-08-07T12:32:15.470" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't think any 3D printed plastic is suitable for this. You should consider using a (drill/jig) bushing. This is a metal piece that can be inserted into your 3D print to provide a more durable surface for your drill bit to be guided by. &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/comments/fk8rkj/hole_drilling_jig_using_brass_bushing/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Here's an example&lt;/a&gt; of a bushing used with a 3D printed part.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastActivityDate="2021-08-07T12:32:15.470" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="17876" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-08-07T15:12:14.023" Score="1" ViewCount="314" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an Elegoo Saturn Mono resin printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I make a 3D model that has a &amp;quot;sacrificial layer&amp;quot; on the bottom, and I place it flat on the bed, will the area in contact with e bed automatically be exposed as a bottom layer with a longer exposure time, or is this something that I will need to do manually?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm using Chitubox and an Elegoo Saturn for the printing, and Blender to make the models. I have them all set to the vanilla settings\factory defaults, and am not using any customer setting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My thinking is that if I have a large object to print that is going to have a flat base, such as a slab of rock for scenery, rather than using lots of heavy supports I could simply add extra material on the bottom of the object, a couple of mm thick, and then sand the entire thing flat using a belt sander and high grit paper to get back down to the material that I actually want.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="29097" LastEditorUserId="29097" LastEditDate="2021-08-07T18:59:11.590" LastActivityDate="2021-08-08T21:59:58.797" Title="Bottom layer exposure for prints placed directly on the bed (resin printer)?" Tags="|3d-models|slicing|resin|chitu|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="17877" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-08-07T15:58:13.350" Score="0" ViewCount="88" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.adafruit.com/product/4090&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;object&lt;/a&gt; and want to construct a part that the object could be slotted into along the Y-axis.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YIQKq.png&quot; alt=&quot;object to be slotted&quot; title=&quot;object to be slotted&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I just subtract the object, I will end up with a hollow that is bigger on the inside so it will not be possible to push the object in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would like it if there was an easy way to construct the red “hull” so that it can be subtracted from the purple cube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sa8HE.png&quot; alt=&quot;side view of the desired shape&quot; title=&quot;side view of the desired shape&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One possibility seems to be the extrusion of a projection of the object into the Y-plane, though that also includes the pins, which would be too much – those are only at the end.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/el9T5.png&quot; alt=&quot;attempt by extruding a projection&quot; title=&quot;attempt by extruding a projection&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there some combination/operation that allows “subtraction by imprinting”?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30675" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-08-08T03:37:54.220" LastActivityDate="2021-08-08T03:37:54.220" Title="Creating a hole into which an object can be pushed" Tags="|openscad|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="17878" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-08-07T22:45:59.967" Score="3" ViewCount="277" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have the following hardware configuration:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ender 3 Pro&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;SKR E3 Turbo&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ender Extender 400XL&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;BLTouch&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;BTT TFT35 E3 v3.0 (Marlin/LCD and BTT/BLTouch configured)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Dual Z steppers (per &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6UgT9YqY3UA&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Teaching Tech&lt;/a&gt;, example 3)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Dual linear rails on Y-axis (adapters by &lt;a href=&quot;https://printermods.com/products/y-axis-linear-rail-adapters-ender-3-ender-5-cr-10&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;printermods.com&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I plead guilty to having too many mods on this machine but everything was working until very recently.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After installing the linear rails mod, I discovered that the Y-axis movement was inverted in Marlin. I fixed that but (as of now) I can't get the device to home using sensorless homing (in Marlin mode on the TFT35) using &lt;strong&gt;Motion ▶ Auto Home&lt;/strong&gt;. The gantry moves toward the (now disconnected) X-axis endstop switch (far left) and keeps buzzing until I press reset on TFT35 or cycle the power.  The Y-axis seems close to appropriate.  Marlin shows sensorless homing enabled/defined for the X and Y axes and the appropriate Diag pins are jumpered for the X and Y TMC2209s.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally, the Z-axis seems to &amp;quot;think&amp;quot; the nozzle should be some 45 mm above the bed.  This being so far off, the BLTouch doesn't ever get triggered so as to define a soft endstop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Specifically, executing a &lt;code&gt;G28 Z&lt;/code&gt; results in an X and then Y gantry excursion to the apparent soft endstops, then to apparent X, Y - 0,0, then centering at X, Y - 200,200 (my bed is 400 x 400 mm).  The nozzle then raises to an indicated 0 (i.e., 200, 200, 0) which is approximately 40.1 mm above the bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At my age, I know I am at wit's end when I voluntarily go out and mow several acres of lawn in the oppressive Georgia August heat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sorry for the long, rambling soliloquy.  I would greatly appreciate any insight or other assistance anyone might offer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30661" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-08-08T13:44:55.610" LastActivityDate="2021-08-08T13:44:55.610" Title="Problem setting home and getting Ender 3 basic geometry dialed in" Tags="|homing|endstop|print-axis-offset|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="17879" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17870" CreationDate="2021-08-08T00:17:43.517" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've had this problem on a Prusa MK2s. The print was always at the center of the build plate and that's the location (underneath) of the thermistor. The part was small, the cooling fan was chilling the bed at the same time it was trying to maintain temperature. Moving the part a few centimeters away from the center resolved the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the case of this PEI coated bed, always centering the print caused the PEI to wear in that area, requiring replacement. The operators were informed to place the build in random, non-centered locations in the future.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastActivityDate="2021-08-08T00:17:43.517" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="17880" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-08-08T14:41:53.990" Score="4" ViewCount="2036" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm attempting to print &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4878426&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this print-in-place bag clip&lt;/a&gt; (in the 80 and 100 sizes).  Early prints came out well, except that my persistent elephant foot resulted in locking the hinge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Oddly, a few days ago I printed four simultaneous copies of &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4896910&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this print in place wall hook&lt;/a&gt; with the same filament and settings (before adjusting the initial layer and line width) and they required almost no &amp;quot;exercising&amp;quot; after printing to hinge freely from the stop to latched closed.  The hinge design on these is simpler, without the &amp;quot;easy printing without steep overhangs feature&amp;quot; (using no-support-needed slopes); instead, the lower casing of the hinge acts as supports for the pin and its flange, which then acts as supports for the upper casing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm printing in Amazon Basics PLA, nozzle at 200 °C, bed at 55 °C.  I level the bed with a 0.08 mm feeler gauge after homing and jogging the Z axis to 0.075 mm, and I adjust pretty tight, so I'm setting effectively zero clearance.  I've adjusted my settings in Cura 4.10.0 (0.2 mm overall layer height, 0.4 mm line width) as follows: Initial Layer Horizontal Expansion -0.3 mm, Initial Layer Line Width 90%, Initial Layer Height 0.3 mm, Wall Line Width 0.35 mm in order to attempt to correct elephant foot without losing bed adhesion (printing on the uncoated side of a Creality borosilicate glass bed using a glue stick wash), and I'm getting good first layers, but by the third layer, even with the reduced line width, the hinge parts are fusing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With this particular Thing, the option exists to open the object in FreeCAD and adjust a &amp;quot;hinge tolerance&amp;quot; parameter to give the hinge larger clearances, but I understand from &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/13940/expansion-in-bottom-skin-after-first-layer&quot;&gt;this question and its answers&lt;/a&gt; that this problem occurring in the second and third layers is likely a Z travel problem, my first few layers not being as high as the printer's firmware thinks they are -- and there doesn't seem to be a way to &amp;quot;taper off&amp;quot; the line width and flow level adjustments that can be applied to the first layer, as opposed to &amp;quot;second layer has same settings as layer 122.&amp;quot;  There's also the possibility of slicing the part upside down, so the critical clearances aren't in the bottom 3-4 layers, but this design might not permit that to work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pursuant to that, I've tightened the eccentric wheels on both uprights to the point I can barely slip the wheel when the gantry is restrained, but without any change in the way the hinge gaps fill in on layers 2 and 3.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So: how can I correct this second and third layer expansion so my print-in-place parts will work correctly?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: This doesn't seem like a long time, but it's been rather humid here recently, so it's possible this excessive expansion is related to moisture in the filament.  I ran out the filament spool I was using (unsealed about two weeks ago) and opened a new spool of the same brand/type: Amazon Basics PLA -- and started getting a good print with only common elephant foot amelioration (small negative horizontal expansion in initial layer).  The print failed for a seemingly unrelated reason, but I should be able to try again soon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit 2: After correcting a loose thermistor that was causing thermal runaways, I was able to complete a print with the fresher filament (after a week of continued humid weather), and did get a better print -- in that I was able to break the lightly fused hinge loose and get a bag clip that works as intended.  I'm still seeing considerable expansion in layers 2 and 3, which aren't accessible to &amp;quot;initial layer&amp;quot; settings that would otherwise ameliorate elephant foot, but with four layers for both bottom and top skin, I'm seeing no expansion at the top (as has been suggested as the cause due to overextrusion of bottom skin).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit 3: most recently, I've gotten a successful print by adjusting the &amp;quot;horizontal expansion&amp;quot; in the slicer -- giving -0.1 mm in initial layer, and -0.05 mm for the rest of the part.  This doesn't eliminate the layer expansion, but does reduce the hinge fusing to the point I can break the parts free after the print completes.  I continue to doubt pressure from the interior of the layer could cause this; I've watched these layers print, and the three lines of the wall print first, inside to outside, followed by a fourth line forming the border of the skin fill, and then the skin fill.  The wall lines, then, ought to be well adhered and cooled by the time the skin layer starts to fill in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28508" LastEditorUserId="28508" LastEditDate="2021-08-18T13:57:06.143" LastActivityDate="2021-08-18T13:57:06.143" Title="How can I correct *second and third layer* elephant foot?" Tags="|creality-ender-3|pla|calibration|glass-bed|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="14" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="17882" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17876" CreationDate="2021-08-08T17:54:30.470" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you put the object directly on the bed, the lowest part of the object will be cured as the bottom layer. And yes, you can sand it away depending on the shape of the object.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For such large objects, you can also use a feature called Double Exposure, it is available on few slicers and easier to deal with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5007" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-08-08T21:59:58.797" LastActivityDate="2021-08-08T21:59:58.797" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="17883" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17860" CreationDate="2021-08-08T18:24:14.077" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Based on my experience, cure-time and thickness increase or decrease is not linear and it is mostly curve. For example resin rated for 50 micron 5 s cure time. You should expect:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;25  micron - 3.2 s&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;50  micron - 5 s&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;100 micron - 12 s&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If a resin manufacturer do not provide specific cure time for thickness you want, you should always print calibration objects.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can cure specific range of thickness depend on resins chemical properties (eg. uv blocker and photoinitiators), usually for non-specialized resins, you may print 1/2 or 2x of the suggested thickness. So you cannot print 10 micron for resins which designed for 50 micron thickness. For some specialized resins you can only print with the rated thickness and nothing else.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5007" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-08-08T21:10:24.267" LastActivityDate="2021-08-08T21:10:24.267" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="17884" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16664" CreationDate="2021-08-08T18:32:05.197" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;More is better, as less resin need to come under the build platform during the lift. But very close objects specially for delicate details may cause them bend close together by liquid resin &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Surface_tension&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;surface tension&lt;/a&gt;, which will impact surface quality.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5007" LastActivityDate="2021-08-08T18:32:05.197" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="17885" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-08-08T20:36:04.840" Score="1" ViewCount="3989" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an Ender 3 Pro 3D printer and a few months back I got a blue screen after printing something. I didn't even try to fix it because I got tired of running into problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now I opened it again and everything seemed to work. I tried to open the SD card in my laptop to load a new 3D file but the laptop wouldn't even open with the card in it (I'm using a USB adapter with an SD card slot). I removed the card, opened the laptop, put the card in again and the system sees the card, but it won't let me do anything to it. I tried formatting it but I can't right-click on it because the window will freeze, the &amp;quot;Create and Format Hard Disk Partitions&amp;quot; tool in Windows 10 won't open either with the card in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried grabbing a different card, put it in, loaded the prints and then tried running it in the printer, but the printed won't see this card. Going back to check on the laptop, this SD card has the same issue now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has anyone run into this problem or have any idea if I can recover the memory cards?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30685" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-08-08T22:02:22.180" LastActivityDate="2021-09-08T21:06:25.567" Title="SD cards get corrupted" Tags="|microsd|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="17886" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17885" CreationDate="2021-08-08T22:01:58.977" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is my understanding of your issue:&#xA;&lt;em&gt;Your Ender 3 Pro 3D will repetitively and consistently corrupt multiple MicroSD cards that are inserted. Originally known working SD cards used in the printer are never recognized by it and once the card is used back at the computer it be unreadable and can't be formatted. Also that you have had a apparent LCD board issues in the past (dark screen)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your &lt;strong&gt;confident to you're satisfaction&lt;/strong&gt; that this will happen every time with any computer/SD card/card adapter combination you try I see only couple options.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Consider seller warranty for replacement or parts, if this is not a option then read on.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Re-seat and inspect all electrical connections to and from all boards. Double check with official documentation that all connectors are in the correct spot. (with printer off)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check with a multi meter the accuracy and stability of the 24 and 5 volt rails. This is a slight long shot but is easy to do and could save you from a lot of work. Use caution to not short any pins on the board when doing this on a powered board.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Re-Flashing the printer &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.creality3dofficial.com/pages/firmware-download?gclid=CjwKCAjwpMOIBhBAEiwAy5M6YHJVMMkzpKIn2oBfzfhZK65iWBuYyIhcmHZjCHpSrxzapuPedAwuhxoCyIoQAvD_BwE&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Firmware &lt;/a&gt; might also be a useful thing to try.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Failing all that this will likely require a board replacement. However it's not clear to me if the Control Board or the LCD Board is the more likely the culprit. Due to proximity to the SD card and possible past issues I would lean towards the LCD Board.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30645" LastEditorUserId="30645" LastEditDate="2021-08-09T20:43:07.423" LastActivityDate="2021-08-09T20:43:07.423" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="17887" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-08-09T01:39:36.563" Score="2" ViewCount="206" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently finished building my Tevo Tarantula but now I have an issue with homing the X-axis.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have uploaded MarlinTarantula EasyConfig 2.0.x firmware with Arduino Version 1.8.15 on to the Tevo Tarantula. Whenever I press Home X on the LCD, or by sending the g code command &lt;code&gt;G28 X0&lt;/code&gt;, the X carriage moves to activate the end stop, it activates the end stop, then the carriage moves to the right, or away from the end stop, then it moves back and jams in to the end stop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I physically press the X end stop and check the state with the G-code command &lt;code&gt;M119&lt;/code&gt; the end does register as 'triggered' so I don't think the end stop is the problem. However after reading some other threads I'm not sure anymore. I will link a video to show how the problem I have just described.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the link to the video: &lt;a href=&quot;https://streamable.com/kbdnwc&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://streamable.com/kbdnwc&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: When I do press the X end stop manually with my hand during homing of the X axis, the carriage has very similar behavior. It stops, then it goes to the right, which is away from the X end stop then it comes back to the left and I get the message of &amp;quot;Homing Failed. Please Reset.&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30686" LastEditorUserId="30686" LastEditDate="2021-08-09T03:12:44.197" LastActivityDate="2021-08-09T03:12:44.197" Title="X-axis homing failed with odd results on Tevo Tarantula" Tags="|marlin|diy-3d-printer|homing|tevo-tarantula|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="17888" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17887" CreationDate="2021-08-09T02:08:58.693" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The first thing that jumps out to me is where the frame is pushing on the switch. It looks to be directly over the switch actuator and not at the end of the little metal switch arm. This will make the gap from switch activation point to hard stop and bottoming out the switch really small. Any software delay after endstop detection or flex in the system may could cause the delicate switch to be used a hard stop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Speaking of flex in the system is hard to tell for sure but the belts do look slack and not well aligned. The chance is not zero the two issues could combine to create this problem you are seeing&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A informative test might be able hold a credit card size of plastic against the frame in front of the sensor so it contacts the end of the metal arm first as it homes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30645" LastEditorUserId="30645" LastEditDate="2021-08-09T03:12:12.197" LastActivityDate="2021-08-09T03:12:12.197" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="17889" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-08-09T08:36:16.537" Score="2" ViewCount="3380" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have 2 printers, an Artillery Sidewinder X1 and an Ender 3 that both have BLTouch sensors installed. This post is about the one (BLTouch clone, the probe is a Smart v3.1 sensor) installed on my Ender.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;My problem:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I recently upgraded from Creality's original motherboard to the BigTreeTech SKR mini E3 and touchscreen. Once I had plugged everything in, I flashed the latest firmware with edits made only to suit my BLTouch. I am using the &lt;code&gt;Zmin&lt;/code&gt; endstop pin rather than the dedicated BLTouch pin and I double-checked both my wiring and my firmware to make sure my changes were correct. I powered on the printer and everything worked. I even printed a test calibration cube. I was happy with myself for getting everything to work first go and screwed the lid back over the motherboard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Upon restarting the printer, I tried homing it and the probe would not deploy, and if I did not switch the power off, the extruder assembly would drill into the bed. Using the 'Deploy', 'Stow', and 'Test' buttons do nothing. Running &lt;code&gt;G29&lt;/code&gt; or tapping the ABL button on the touchscreen will return similar results to pressing home or running &lt;code&gt;G28&lt;/code&gt;, where the probe will not deploy (or stow if I manually pull it down - note that it does not go into error mode when I do that) and crash into the bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Things I have tried already:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Running &lt;code&gt;M420 S1&lt;/code&gt; - returns &lt;code&gt;failed to enable bed leveling, invalid mesh&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Running &lt;code&gt;M500&lt;/code&gt; and &lt;code&gt;M502&lt;/code&gt; after it to clear EEPROM&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Double checking that the servo pin is connected to the right socket on the motherboard&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Swapping the BLTouch out for the one that belongs to my other printer&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Using a multimeter to check the connection between the BLTouch and the servo pin&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Enabling &lt;code&gt;BLTOUCH_DELAY 500&lt;/code&gt; and &lt;code&gt;BLTOUCH_FORCE_SW_MODE&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Flipping the servo connector&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Using the whole BLTouch connector instead of plugging the Z wires of the BLTouch into the Z endstop port and changing the firmware accordingly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Wiring Diagram&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I used this diagram to wire the sensor:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yvYmx.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Wiring diagram for BigTreeTech SKR mini E3 board&quot; title=&quot;Wiring diagram for BigTreeTech SKR mini E3 board&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;So I am just about at my wit's end with these BLTouch (clone) sensors - with 3 separate posts on this forum regarding them, my own posts even showing in the 'Similar questions' box at the time of writing this post, but amongst all the frustration I have experienced, I have learned a great deal along the way, from the core workings of the firmware to the design of the motherboard.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;4 months later and I still never solved the problem. It seems likely that is a wiring fault or something wrong with the firmware but I have checked the wiring countless times with a multimeter, testing the BLTouch with another printer and using pre-compiled firmware sent to me by BTT support. I am writing to BTT to see if I can get a replacement board but if you have any other ideas I would love to try them.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23583" LastEditorUserId="23583" LastEditDate="2022-01-08T04:18:11.607" LastActivityDate="2024-01-31T14:00:55.137" Title="BLTouch clone will not deploy, stow, or deploy when homing or auto leveling" Tags="|creality-ender-3|bed-leveling|bltouch|z-probe|skr-mini-e3|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="17892" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17894" CreationDate="2021-08-10T13:47:28.350" Score="4" ViewCount="523" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm getting a lot of blobbing and scuffing on top of my prints in PETG on my Ender 3 with AMH/DD. It doesn't seem to do this if the print doesn't have a flat bottom so much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uKNV3.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Mid-print model with blobbing/scuffing printing errors&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uKNV3.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Mid-print model with blobbing/scuffing printing errors&quot; title=&quot;Mid-print model with blobbing/scuffing printing errors&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have the E-steps set to 130, which if anything is slightly under extruding vs the caliper measurements.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas how I can fix this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cura settings:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;[general]  &#xA;version = 4  &#xA;name = Creality Ender 3 - eSUN PETG - Red  &#xA;definition = creality_base  &#xA;&#xA;[metadata]  &#xA;type = quality_changes  &#xA;quality_type = standard  &#xA;intent_category = default  &#xA;position = 0  &#xA;setting_version = 17  &#xA;&#xA;[values]  &#xA;cool_fan_full_layer = 3  &#xA;infill_overlap = 15  &#xA;infill_pattern = triangles  &#xA;infill_sparse_density = 10&#xA;ironing_enabled = False&#xA;ironing_only_highest_layer = True&#xA;material_print_temperature = 230&#xA;retraction_amount = 2&#xA;retraction_speed = 25&#xA;skirt_gap = 6&#xA;speed_infill = 30&#xA;speed_print = 35&#xA;speed_topbottom = 15&#xA;speed_travel = 250.0&#xA;speed_wall = 25&#xA;wall_line_count = 3&#xA;z_seam_x = 150&#xA;z_seam_y = 300&#xA;&#xA;----&#xA;[general]&#xA;version = 4&#xA;name = Creality Ender 3 - eSUN PETG - Red&#xA;definition = creality_base&#xA;&#xA;[metadata]&#xA;type = quality_changes&#xA;quality_type = standard&#xA;setting_version = 17&#xA;&#xA;[values]&#xA;acceleration_enabled = True&#xA;jerk_enabled = True&#xA;layer_height_0 = 0.21&#xA;material_bed_temperature = 75&#xA;material_bed_temperature_layer_0 = 75&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30704" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-08-10T17:21:30.600" LastActivityDate="2021-08-10T17:21:30.600" Title="Flat print blobbing and scuffing with PETG on Ender 3 Pro with Microswiss AMH/DD" Tags="|petg|stringing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="17893" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15469" CreationDate="2021-08-10T14:18:06.147" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've seen a version of this error on my Ender 3 when I heated the hot end without the silicone sock (or any other insulating wrap).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this occurred after changing a nozzle, replacing a heat break (or entire hot end), installing a new cooling duct, or similar, it's likely you just inadvertently left off the insulation that should surround the heat block, making it take much longer and require much more power to reach working temperature than is normal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This can also occur if the thermistor or heater cartridge are not correctly seated in the heat block -- the same problems that can result in a thermal runaway halt (assuming your printer has that feature) if it does get to temperature before timing out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28508" LastEditorUserId="28508" LastEditDate="2021-08-11T11:23:16.317" LastActivityDate="2021-08-11T11:23:16.317" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="17894" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17892" CreationDate="2021-08-10T16:08:43.403" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are you sure the 130 E-steps is correct for your extruder? You don't mention what extruder you're using, but presumably, it's something other than just moving the original extruder to a direct drive mounting position or that would be extreme over extrusion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming that's right, the most likely cause is having the nozzle too close to the bed, so that there's too little volume to fit the extruded material into.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, you almost surely need to increase your nozzle temperature &lt;strong&gt;a lot&lt;/strong&gt;. I'd normally consider 235 °C the absolute minimum for PETG, and I can't get it to adhere properly below 245 °C with the stock Ender 3 hotend. Since you have an all-metal hotend you can go even higher. PETG likes to &amp;quot;scuff&amp;quot; like that when it's too cool, and when you travel over already-printed material, and the lowest layers are even more susceptible to it since the bed will be sinking a lot of heat out of the material as soon as it's laid down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-08-10T17:17:49.713" LastActivityDate="2021-08-10T17:17:49.713" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="17895" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17897" CreationDate="2021-08-10T20:25:51.383" Score="4" ViewCount="555" Body="&lt;p&gt;Everytime I export to STL in Fusion 360, a new Version (V1, V2, V3, V4, ...) of the file is created. But I would really like to use that feature to mark bigger changes instead of creating a new version everytime I change a minor detail to see how the Cura reacts to it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For some reason, no new version gets created when I send the model to Cura via the tools tab. But then no new STL file gets created, but Fusion 360 opens a new instance of Cura instead. Even if Cura is already open.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;That's not what I want. I want to overwrite the old STL file so Cura offers me to reload the STL file and I can keep working in the instance of Cura which is already open.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I already deactivated the checkbox to create a new version everytime I save the file. That settings works as expected&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30705" LastActivityDate="2021-08-11T01:37:33.920" Title="How to stop Fusion 360 from creating a new version on STL export" Tags="|stl|fusion360|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="17896" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16683" CreationDate="2021-08-10T20:35:41.417" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It seems easy to calculate but it is not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Due to acceleration and deceleration, the movement time hard to predict. If you take a look at Atmel source code for movement you would get clear idea.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Usually these boards contains RAMPS compatible firmware running on a separate micro controller. Any value change on this side such as movement parameters are not synchronized.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Framebuffer being used to display layer which is slow and add slight delays specially for high resolution printers.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the end I did expect better prediction with simple math, specially considering only very few parameters adjustable on chitu. The most probably your printer timing details on chitu are not accurate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5007" LastActivityDate="2021-08-10T20:35:41.417" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="17897" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17895" CreationDate="2021-08-10T21:38:40.220" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not sure if this will solve your issue directly for you but when I save a STL/3MF from F360 I don't use the File/Export in 360.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Instead I just right click the body in the browser tree and save the STL/3MF directly from that menu.&#xA;Select &lt;strong&gt;&amp;quot;save as mesh&amp;quot;&lt;/strong&gt; This does not add any version number, and also the usage of cloud processing is not required so it's much faster.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ndOnp.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ndOnp.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30645" LastEditorUserId="30645" LastEditDate="2021-08-11T01:37:33.920" LastActivityDate="2021-08-11T01:37:33.920" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="17898" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-08-11T15:24:31.037" Score="3" ViewCount="469" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am printing on a Prusa i3 MK3S+ with MMU2S module using PVA+ soluble material and PLA. Slicing with PrusaSlicer 2.3.1. This question is more about slicing and is probably printer-independent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My problem is the default pattern makes the surface not smooth. See the attached screenshot from PrusaSlicer (picture from the bottom side, for clarity I hid the lowest layers to make the interface visible):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/H5Cka.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;PrusaSlicer 3D rendering of a model from the bottom side&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/H5Cka.png&quot; alt=&quot;PrusaSlicer 3D rendering of a model from the bottom side&quot; title=&quot;PrusaSlicer 3D rendering of a model from the bottom side&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The resulting object looks like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/szZuU.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Actual printed model with printing errors&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/szZuU.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Actual printed model with printing errors&quot; title=&quot;Actual printed model with printing errors&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I wish the slicing would look like:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZSA6E.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;PrusaSlicer 3D rendering of what the model should look like&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZSA6E.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;PrusaSlicer 3D rendering of what the model should look like&quot; title=&quot;PrusaSlicer 3D rendering of what the model should look like&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas on how to make such a pattern or other ideas to make it better? It doesn't matter if the support is hard to remove because it's soluble anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The simplified STL model: &lt;a href=&quot;https://zouppen.iki.fi/poista/pirra.stl&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://zouppen.iki.fi/poista/pirra.stl&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30718" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-08-11T17:27:14.667" LastActivityDate="2021-08-11T17:27:14.667" Title="How to make solid soluble support surface with Prusaslicer?" Tags="|prusaslicer|multi-material|pva|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="17899" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17898" CreationDate="2021-08-11T15:53:31.693" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;What you're looking for is the Support Interface Layers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In PrusaSlicer, enable &lt;strong&gt;Advanced&lt;/strong&gt; or &lt;strong&gt;Expert&lt;/strong&gt; mode, and under &lt;strong&gt;Print Settings&lt;/strong&gt; ▶ &lt;strong&gt;Support Material&lt;/strong&gt; ▶ &lt;strong&gt;Options for support material and raft&lt;/strong&gt; you can decrease the Interface Layers to zero, and only the support structure will remain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keep in mind, this will affect &lt;em&gt;ALL&lt;/em&gt; supports in the model, however.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6996" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-08-11T17:19:10.087" LastActivityDate="2021-08-11T17:19:10.087" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="17900" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17903" CreationDate="2021-08-12T00:53:54.947" Score="6" ViewCount="761" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've had my Ender 3 Pro for a few months, and it's been working great. Then, after a failed print (the STL had extra seams, causing the print to get mangled), I've started having issues that I have attributed to under-extrusion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As evidenced by the below image, some lines in each layer are missing. The gaps align throughout the print, but not between prints (the two squares are identical G-code). This happens in every layer, with a different pattern in each. It also causes some perimeters to not adhere to the previous layer at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The extra strands in the right print are present because I ripped off the infill layer that printed on top before I aborted the print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I first assumed I needed to calibrate my extruder. It turns out I did (93 had to be changed to 150 steps/mm). However, that did not fix the issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Some things I've tried&lt;/strong&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Calibrate the extruder&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check nozzle size and filament size in Slic3r&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Level the bed (I had to place a post-it note under the centre of the flexible magnetic build surface to make up for a warped bed)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Clean my nozzle and hotend (I fully dismantled the hotend)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Replace my nozzle&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Increase printing temperature&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there anything else I might try to get this fixed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/i2KNm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Evidence Image&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Specs for Reference&lt;/strong&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ender 3 Pro&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;0.4 mm Brass Nozzle&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;205 °C Hotend&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;60 °C Bed&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Slic3r&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;150 Steps/mm for Extruder&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you need any more information, just comment and I'll do my best to supply it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Please note that I am &lt;strong&gt;not&lt;/strong&gt; open to suggestions to replace my printer. I'd rather fix the one I have.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30720" LastEditorUserId="30720" LastEditDate="2021-08-13T04:38:23.983" LastActivityDate="2021-08-24T22:31:45.437" Title="Patterned Under-Extrusion on Ender 3 Pro" Tags="|creality-ender-3|underextrusion|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="17901" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-08-12T18:23:38.620" Score="1" ViewCount="3061" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a new Ender 3 V2 printer that I assembled. The printer reads the TF/SD stock card info but won't read the auto-level code I downloaded. It doesn't even show up on the card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I downloaded auto-level code and the printer won't read that code, other than the factory-installed code that came with the printer. I formatted the SD card per advice but still no reading of the card by the printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is my first 3D printer and I am not very tech-savvy but I think I've done everything right per instructions and descriptions I've seen online.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30734" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-08-12T18:54:51.850" LastActivityDate="2021-08-13T06:40:13.483" Title="New printer won't read files from SD card" Tags="|creality-ender-3|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="17902" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13876" CreationDate="2021-08-12T18:48:07.633" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;To add to the answers here, use a finely stranded wire for the bed. It does better with being constantly flexed. Finely stranded wire is hard to source, except it is usually what is used for wall warts/AC adapters. They come in the heavier gauge you want, just check the writing on the wire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27077" LastActivityDate="2021-08-12T18:48:07.633" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="17903" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17900" CreationDate="2021-08-13T04:38:51.867" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;It turns out the extruder &lt;em&gt;was&lt;/em&gt; slipping, but not due to a nozzle or Bowden tube pressure issue. The extruder arm (?) that holds the passive wheel (as opposed to the drive gear) was cracked, so the pressure between the wheel and the gear was weak. A bit of glue fixed it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These printers should ship with metal extruders, I think.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The arm broke &lt;em&gt;again&lt;/em&gt;, and this time I have a picture to illustrate the issue. I didn't make the printer do anything strenuous; I just printed a few small parts, causing it to break.&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ibmeD.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30720" LastEditorUserId="30720" LastEditDate="2021-08-24T22:31:45.437" LastActivityDate="2021-08-24T22:31:45.437" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="17904" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-08-13T06:19:27.403" Score="6" ViewCount="6971" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Creality Ender 3. I've unscrewed the coupler from the drive assembly, but can't get it loose from the tube.  The hot end coupler came free easily.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I compress the rubber gasket, but it stays tight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are these manufactured to be replaced every time?  My new Bowden tube didn't come with a new coupler.&#xA;I see that the couplers are sold with or without the tubing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30746" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-08-13T13:04:47.417" LastActivityDate="2021-08-14T02:23:43.070" Title="Cold end coupler stuck on Bowden tube" Tags="|creality-ender-3|bowden|ptfe-tube|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="17905" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17901" CreationDate="2021-08-13T06:40:13.483" Score="1" Body="&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Make sure your SD card is formatted to FAT32.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The printer can only understand files on the SD card that&#xA;are &lt;code&gt;.gcode&lt;/code&gt; or &lt;code&gt;.bin&lt;/code&gt; . In your case, you will need to flash the&#xA;pre-compiled firmware as a &lt;code&gt;.bin&lt;/code&gt; file.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Make sure the file is named &lt;code&gt;firmware.bin&lt;/code&gt; and that it is the right&#xA;firmware for your 3D printer. &lt;strong&gt;It will not work if it is still in a&#xA;&lt;code&gt;.zip&lt;/code&gt; or &lt;code&gt;.rar&lt;/code&gt; archive.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I do not own an Ender 3 V2 myself, but from experience, the screen may&#xA;stay blank for around 5 seconds while the motherboard updates when you reboot the printer. If&#xA;your printer does this while it updates, it can be a good way to tell&#xA;if your firmware update worked.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;On the LCD navigate the UI to find the &lt;code&gt;Restore Defaults&lt;/code&gt; button.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23583" LastActivityDate="2021-08-13T06:40:13.483" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="17906" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17907" CreationDate="2021-08-13T06:49:52.173" Score="2" ViewCount="323" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is my board MKS Melzi v2.0 cloned&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/89BqI.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;MKS Melzi v2.0 cloned&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/89BqI.png&quot; alt=&quot;MKS Melzi v2.0 cloned&quot; title=&quot;MKS Melzi v2.0 cloned&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I replaced the MCU (the &lt;em&gt;actual&lt;/em&gt; IC) with new ATmega1284P 16 MHz, because the old MCU was damaged - the reason was that the fan got dusty and the power line became unstable. I replaced the MCU with the exact same model.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have tried to flash it many times using &lt;code&gt;usbasp&lt;/code&gt;. It works but same issue system menus boot splash are still so slow it's painful. It takes minutes on an old Marlin version 1.1.6, hours on a new Marlin 2.x&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think it's something related to MCU (crystal oscillator frequencies). Maybe the system uses an internal crystal so the MCU got stuck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How can I switch to an external crystal?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If it's not, then what can cause the problem?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Firmware links:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The old firmware link:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/nathantsoi/Marlin/tree/tronxy-x5s-1.1.6&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://github.com/nathantsoi/Marlin/tree/tronxy-x5s-1.1.6&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The new firmware is last stable firmware 2.0.9.1 &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/tree/2.0.9.1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/tree/2.0.9.1&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30745" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2021-08-13T08:08:18.477" LastActivityDate="2021-08-13T12:46:20.973" Title="TronXY X5S system (Marlin) - Very Slow menus" Tags="|marlin|electronics|tronxy|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="17907" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17906" CreationDate="2021-08-13T08:34:19.967" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Either:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You have a clock prescaler set, or;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You are not using the external oscillator on the board.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are some internal fuses that set the clock frequency divider and the clock source and maybe your new IC has the incorrect fuses set.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That is to say, they may be factory default, but they are not the same as the controller board comes shipped with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You probably want to check &lt;em&gt;both&lt;/em&gt; settings as the factory defaults of your replacement IC are probably not what you expect, or desire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check the &lt;a href=&quot;http://ww1.microchip.com/downloads/en/DeviceDoc/doc8059.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;ATmega1284P datasheet&lt;/a&gt; for details.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Prescaler&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Section &lt;strong&gt;7.12.2 CLKPR - Clock Prescale Register&lt;/strong&gt;, page 38. That is for the general clock frequency, and shows the register &lt;code&gt;CLKPR&lt;/code&gt; in particular &lt;strong&gt;Bits 3:0&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QFuhU.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;7.12.2 CLKPR - Clock Prescale Register&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QFuhU.png&quot; alt=&quot;7.12.2 CLKPR - Clock Prescale Register&quot; title=&quot;7.12.2 CLKPR - Clock Prescale Register&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or section &lt;strong&gt;7.11 System Clock Prescaler&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VaEq4.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;7.11 System Clock Prescaler&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VaEq4.png&quot; alt=&quot;7.11 System Clock Prescaler&quot; title=&quot;7.11 System Clock Prescaler&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;External clock&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Section &lt;strong&gt;7.2 Clock Sources&lt;/strong&gt;, shows that &lt;code&gt;CKSEL&lt;/code&gt; &lt;strong&gt;Bits 3:0&lt;/strong&gt; set which clock is used, internal or external. You presumably want to use the external clock so set all four bits to zero&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bfJGB.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;7.2 Clock Sources&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bfJGB.png&quot; alt=&quot;7.2 Clock Sources&quot; title=&quot;7.2 Clock Sources&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To set, or examine, any of the registers, you have to use &lt;code&gt;usbasp&lt;/code&gt;. I can't remember what the commands are. If you look on &lt;a href=&quot;https://arduino.stackexchange.com/&quot;&gt;SE.Arduino&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;https://electronics.stackexchange.com/&quot;&gt;SE.Electronics&lt;/a&gt; I am sure that there is a question with the answer. I vaguely remember having the same problem with an ATtiny.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4762" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2021-08-13T12:46:20.973" LastActivityDate="2021-08-13T12:46:20.973" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="17908" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-08-13T10:13:51.630" Score="3" ViewCount="992" Body="&lt;p&gt;I’m trying to build firmware for the CR-10 MAX. The git has no &lt;code&gt;config&lt;/code&gt; example for this machine. And this is the first time for me to look into the settings. I’m using the firmware from &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/InsanityAutomation/Marlin/tree/CrealityDwin_2.0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Tiny Machines&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I’ve done the following upgrades:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hero Me 5 fan ducts&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Converted it to a direct drive with stock parts.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The settings below are what I currently have selected:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#define MachineCR10Max&#xA;#define PLUS // Adds BLTouch, allmetal, bilinear (standard), lerdge, 93 e-steps/mm&#xA;#define HotendStock&#xA;#define DirectDrive // Any direct drive extruder, reduces filament change lengths&#xA;#define ABL_BLTOUCH&#xA;#define GraphicLCD&#xA;#define ABL_BI&#xA;#define MeshFine&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And these are questions on, if they are ok.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Changing probe offset for Hero Me 5 kit (values from manual)&#xA;#define X_MIN_POS -47&#xA;#define Y_MIN_POS 2&#xA;.&#xA;**Should I select AC or DC for the CR-10 MAX?**&#xA;//#define BedAC // **I think it is AC what the MAX has?**&#xA;//#define BedDC &#xA;.&#xA;I think I do not need:&#xA;//#define AddonFilSensor &#xA;.&#xA;**Would I want/need this?**&#xA;//#define POWER_LOSS_RECOVERY&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;————————&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Am I complete like this or am I missing settings??&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30748" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-08-13T13:10:55.287" LastActivityDate="2021-08-13T13:10:55.287" Title="CR-10 MAX - Marlin Firmware settings help" Tags="|marlin|firmware|creality-cr-10|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="17909" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17848" CreationDate="2021-08-13T11:12:46.207" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Promoted from comment: if you had switched from a higher temperature filament to lower temperature, you need to purge the hot end at the higher printing temperature to ensure the old filament is sufficiently fluid for the new to push out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't do this, pulling the old filament may leave a &amp;quot;core&amp;quot; passage that lets the new filament get to the nozzle, more or less, but the lining of old filament in the nozzle will both limit thermal transfer (plastics are generally poor conductors) and restrict flow even when the new filament is well melted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This will result in a preheated nozzle printing acceptably until the filament carries away too much heat, then grossly underextruding when the flow rate rises (larger layers, print speed increasing after initial layer slowdown), and potentially partially recovering when the layers get smaller or (due to slicer settings) the print speed slows near the top of a tall part.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Solution: when switching filament, ensure that your purge cycle (whether manual or automatic) is done at the higher temperature for the two filaments involved -- if switching from PETG to PLA, for instance, you'll likely need to purge at 220 °C or higher, even though you'd print your PLA at 180-220 °C,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28508" LastActivityDate="2021-08-13T11:12:46.207" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="17910" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17904" CreationDate="2021-08-13T13:48:00.937" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;After depressing the retaining ring, try pushing the Bowden tube further in to the coupler. This should disengage the internal sprung clip, and allow removal of the Bowden tube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good quality pneumatic couplings should allow many insertion and removal cycles, although the couplings that Creality use have a reputation for early failure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3953" LastActivityDate="2021-08-13T13:48:00.937" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="17911" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-08-13T16:31:13.697" Score="3" ViewCount="183" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have recently purchased an Ender 5 Pro and managed to successfully print a large titan model I created with no problem. After this print, I had a bit of a break before getting back to it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know what has happened but now I just can't get my prints to print properly. I printed a large tower and it left holes in the top surface areas of my prints and my first layers print horribly. I have spent so many hours of every day, leveling the printer time and time again, I cleaned it up, checked for loose screws, etc. Still, to no avail, nothing has fixed the problem and still prints badly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maybe my print bed is warped and can't print properly. I am new to this so I don't really know.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I noticed my infill does not print particularly well in my prints and also has holes in the prints, as well as many overhangs, even if they a very small overhangs, become a stringy mess and need a lot of sanding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FyZ0A.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Partially printed model with holes in the infill.&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FyZ0A.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Partially printed model with holes in the infill.&quot; title=&quot;Partially printed model with holes in the infill.&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The extruder gears are clean, I took some time to go over the whole printer and clean it up before trying again. I am using the Polyterra filament, it's still the same as when I last printed. My bed temperature is at 55 °C and nozzle is 200 °C, I have tried printing it with the nozzle at 195 °C and up to 210 °C with the same effect still occurring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30757" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-08-14T21:55:15.920" LastActivityDate="2021-08-16T13:21:01.123" Title="3D printer is not printing as well as it used to" Tags="|print-quality|bed-leveling|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="17912" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17900" CreationDate="2021-08-13T17:44:02.013" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a big red flag and severely wrong:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;93 had to be changed to 150 steps/mm&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It can be reasonable to tune steps per mm by a few percent, but needing an increase of more than 50% versus the standard value for the same physical gearing indicates either you did something wrong in computing the needed value, or some other serious root problem with the printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should start by fixing that (putting it back at 93) then try to figure out why it seemed to need change.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Likely your extruder isn't gripping the filament. Trying to overextrude that severely likely grinds it so bad the hob fills up with shavings then doesn't grip at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2021-08-13T17:44:02.013" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="17913" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-08-13T21:38:28.247" Score="2" ViewCount="307" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have OBJ and STL files generated by reality capture software and stored on a website.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd like to send our users web links that will take them to a 3D object web viewer loaded with the corresponding object.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can't seem to find a simple online viewer that can do this given a URL.   What do you suggest?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30762" LastActivityDate="2021-08-13T21:38:28.247" Title="How to 3D view an OBJ or STL object given its URL?" Tags="|3d-models|stl|obj|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="17914" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17904" CreationDate="2021-08-14T02:23:43.070" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Success!  better tools and brute force did the trick.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I threaded the tube through the hole in a steel wrench handle, then clamped the end in sturdy forceps.  That gave me enough grip at each end to pull it apart.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for all the suggestions and for letting me know it IS supposed to come apart.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also ordered Capricorn tubing, pneumatic couplers, and enough other printer toys...er, upgrades... to get free shipping.  Next time should be easy!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30746" LastActivityDate="2021-08-14T02:23:43.070" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="17915" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-08-14T11:12:33.963" Score="2" ViewCount="1157" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an Elegoo Saturn resin printer and I want to print out some low detail models that are about three inches on each side. I'm going to add the detail in using traditional modelling, kit-bashing and painting after the models have been printed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In order to get a faster print I'd like to increase the layer height, what is the maximum recommended height for a print of this size?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, if I'm printing tanks that have little or no surface detail.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="29097" LastActivityDate="2021-09-18T15:14:02.917" Title="Maximum recommended layer height for an Elegoo Saturn?" Tags="|resin|layer-height|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="17916" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17917" CreationDate="2021-08-14T19:12:20.240" Score="3" ViewCount="73" Body="&lt;p&gt;Normally 3D printing is done starting at the base level depositing hot plastic upwards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In order to create bas relief details, can we deposit hot plastic on an available centered cone base any curve design allowing slow hot end /spinneret movement in vertical or inclined planes (instead of pure Z direction) by any user-defined CNC control program with a 3D printer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Op6mF.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Two planters with abstract images of a face&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Op6mF.png&quot; alt=&quot;Two planters with abstract images of a face&quot; title=&quot;Two planters with abstract images of a face&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1935" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-08-14T19:39:42.827" LastActivityDate="2021-08-22T02:44:40.960" Title="Inclined plane movement of spinneret" Tags="|software|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="17917" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17916" CreationDate="2021-08-14T21:34:00.357" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think you would have to rewrite the code specifically for the surface you want to print on, so the printer recognizes the base is not flat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'd  have to attach an identical pot in exactly the same spot on your printer bed for each print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the pots you show, you might try printing just the black design flat, maybe 1 mm thick to keep it flexible, then gluing it to your pot.  Using soft filament would make this easier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another option would be a 3D pen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or use a cutting machine like a Cricut to cut it in self stick vinyl.  I believe those machines use SVG files.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30746" LastEditorUserId="30746" LastEditDate="2021-08-22T02:44:40.960" LastActivityDate="2021-08-22T02:44:40.960" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="17918" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17911" CreationDate="2021-08-14T21:37:49.460" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Looks like underextrusion.  There are lots of causes, including clogged nozzle and tubes.  Have you checked those?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should order new nozzles, PTFE tubing and couplers now, even if yours are clean.  You will need them sooner or later, and won't want to wait for delivery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many people say Creality couplers don't hold up well, and Capricorn tubes seem to be highly regarded.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30746" LastEditorUserId="6996" LastEditDate="2021-08-16T13:21:01.123" LastActivityDate="2021-08-16T13:21:01.123" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="17919" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16298" CreationDate="2021-08-15T07:36:31.277" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I discovered that the fade height must have been set to something really off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I didn't know this at the time so I thought I should set the fade height to the default 10 mm just to make sure nothing was wrong and tested it. The printer now levels and compensates perfectly!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23583" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-08-15T12:29:07.263" LastActivityDate="2021-08-15T12:29:07.263" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="17920" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17922" CreationDate="2021-08-15T12:38:05.097" Score="7" ViewCount="2168" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am currently working through various different iterations ofccreating a propeller for a model ICE (nitro engine). So far I have managed to disintegrate each of them eventually. I have been experimenting mostly with PLA and PETG so far. I am currently thinking about using carbon-infused PLA or using PC (I found one that is printable on my printer). However, I am not so sure what properties I exactly have to look for when it comes to a propeller.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am making the following assumptions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When rotating fast (5-6k RPM) there it probably has to create quite some centripetal force and I assume this would translate to&#xA;tensile strength&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When the engine starts or stops it gets accelerated and decelerated almost instantly which probably causes quite some jerk to the propeller. However, I do not know what property that would&#xA;translate to, also tensile strength.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So far the PLA propeller has held up the longest and I cannot rule out that it accidentally touched something when it broke. That is of&#xA;course something it does not have to be able to handle, so I am&#xA;probably going to give PLA another chance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The PETG propellers all literally broke apart the second the engine&#xA;started, and it did not even hold up one rotation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The design of the propeller is actually sacrificing some aerodynamic efficiency in order to make sure there are no &amp;quot;thin&amp;quot; parts. It is&#xA;typically breaking in the section I have highlighted in the&#xA;the following picture.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Lttne.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;3D rendering of a propeller with a circle around a section&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Lttne.png&quot; alt=&quot;3D rendering of a propeller with a circle around a section&quot; title=&quot;3D rendering of a propeller with a circle around a section&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have also a picture of the &amp;quot;remains&amp;quot; of the broken PLA propeller.&#xA;It actually held up many runs before it eventually broke. It actually partially delaminated the entire wall.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/15u6P.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;A damaged print of a propeller&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/15u6P.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;A damaged print of a propeller&quot; title=&quot;A damaged print of a propeller&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am looking for two recommendations/tips:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What material properties should I look for in my use case?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Less important, but some tips regarding print settings are also appreciated. So far I could notice that smaller layer size helps,&#xA;and thicker walls also helped.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20301" LastEditorUserId="20301" LastEditDate="2021-08-17T05:37:05.860" LastActivityDate="2021-08-17T16:31:24.273" Title="Improving durability of a printed propeller" Tags="|print-material|print-strength|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="17921" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17920" CreationDate="2021-08-15T13:13:30.453" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;You need &lt;strong&gt;WAY&lt;/strong&gt; more infill or make it solid. Normal props like this are 100% solid for a reason.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To add to that, in my experience with 3D printing the the infill percent is only part of the story for part strength. In many cases adding perimeter loops and not infill is a better solution for part strength.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With a solid part I suspect PETG will come out ahead over PLA as PLA can be more brittle and just snap under shock or vibration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30645" LastActivityDate="2021-08-15T13:13:30.453" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="17922" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17920" CreationDate="2021-08-15T14:43:44.780" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;As Kezat noted, your part has very low infill, but infill is not what provides most of the part strength anyway. From what I can see of the broken part, it looks like you only have 1 or at most 2 walls, and these are what contribute most to part strength, especially in the orientation you're working in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should probably increase the number of walls to the point where the part is entirely solid, and has no infill region in any layers. This gives much better strength than selecting &amp;quot;100% infill&amp;quot;, which will normally use alternating diagonal lines to fill the region; even if &amp;quot;concentric&amp;quot; is selected, which &amp;quot;looks like&amp;quot; more walls, there are subtle reasons it's not quite as good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may be able to get away with fewer walls, possibly just 3 or 4. If you're trying to keep total mass low, that might be worth trying first. But you definitely need more than the 1 or 2 you have now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastEditorUserId="11157" LastEditDate="2021-08-15T16:21:13.950" LastActivityDate="2021-08-15T16:21:13.950" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="17923" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17920" CreationDate="2021-08-15T17:44:21.503" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm offering a different kind of answer, please do not print your propeller blades. I've seen accidents happen (in my past international model aircraft building and flying hobby) with even the bought injection molded propellers (usually bad handling or aging).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Propeller blades can be bought online or at your local model aircraft shop against reasonable prices. You don't want to lose your eye or somebody else's.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even if used on a car or a hovercraft, please use a bought injection molded propeller and provide proper shielding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2021-08-15T17:44:21.503" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="17924" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3527" CreationDate="2021-08-16T00:49:40.723" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The answer so others can understand is that it's cheap and simple to run with a belt.  Much of the 3D printers these days either stem from the sintering systems that were developed years ago and things that rose out of the RepRap community where a Lead Screw that had the precision needed to do proper 3D printing at decent speeds was out of reach for most of the community.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's a bit of, &amp;quot;we've always used belts,&amp;quot; and then people come up with all sorts of stories to validate the dubious take to begin with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At one point in time (to be specific...around a couple of years BEFORE the question was asked here...) the costs of a lead/belt-screw system for anything other than a Z axis solution for a Cartesian or a Core-XY was prohibitive for a hobbyist or a system bought off shelf or build by them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It was too hard and expensive to get straight enough parts with precision to actually make anything other than small toy systems with those.  We wouldn't get into racks as they were even MORE expensive.  With the precisions we were previously working on and with in the community at the time this question was originally posed, it was something that only made sense for select solutions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you scale larger (Hey, we're now professionally making HUGE parts with this stuff) it makes much, much more sense.  For certain classes of manufacturing...it actually makes sense with certain filaments to make short run parts for almost ANYTHING, including things in the automotive space.  At that juncture, prototyping, fixing &amp;quot;impossible&amp;quot; to repair situations on older cars, etc. makes some sense to get more precision or vastly larger size.  Desireable becomes the ability to make printers with volumes up to 2 meters in size.  Professional space?  Maybe.  But telling people that a pinion isn't making any sense?  Heh...hardly.  Same goes for lead/ball-screws.  Several have made incredible printers fairly cheaply that can print seemingly impossible print runs (Hung at a 45 degree angle in mid air and print...) with some of this stuff.  Is it cheaper?  No.  Does it make sense?  Possibly.  Especially if one wants to DIY a massive print volume printer (&lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;waves hand&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt;).  I want a meter and a half cubed on a side print volume that I can enclose to crank out ASA prints of Smart body panels, for example...  You're not getting that with belts- too stretchy, even with PU steel core belts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Frame it in from a relative cost perspective (It's only going to be about 25% more costly on a DIY or commercial product with a speed upside and precision that might make it WORTH that...but understand that an Ender 3 designed that way will run 350 dollars instead of the 200 or thereabouts it currently runs) and you're going to be more realistic and honest on the question's answer.  Saying it isn't practical...even from when the post originated isn't being exactly forthright in this day and age- and disregards that a person MIGHT just be willing to spend the more money for the precision, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30784" LastEditorUserId="30784" LastEditDate="2021-08-21T23:43:13.720" LastActivityDate="2021-08-21T23:43:13.720" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="17925" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17920" CreationDate="2021-08-16T08:38:13.630" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;A nitro engine rotates &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?1282216-Electic-and-nitro-prop-difference#:%7E:text=slimer%20(slimey%20nitro)%20props%20are,for%20durability%2C%20but%20less%20efficient.&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;much faster&lt;/a&gt; than an electric one, 30k rpm vs 10k rpm top.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, it has much more vibrations (the engine gives torque in sharp pulses, not a continuous power generation). There's a reason if the propellers for electric are not compatible with nitro engines. You will need to step up the game with fiber-infused plastics, and shock resistant plastics, so check CF-ABS, CF-ASA, CF-PC, nylon-CF, nylon-GF.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Forget PETG or PLA...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And use an infill that is equally resistant in every direction, so cubic or gyroid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And do a simple calculation, concerning the infill: use the weight and the spinning speed to calculate the strength you need for the area where the blade attaches to the hub. I think you need an almost solid infill to hold (solid infill = as many perimeters you need to fill it), and then you can progressively decrease the perimeters closer you get to the tip, replacing them with infill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2338" LastActivityDate="2021-08-16T08:38:13.630" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="17926" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17932" CreationDate="2021-08-16T11:15:21.147" Score="2" ViewCount="1869" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't understand the description of this setting in FlashPrint and have been unable to find a better description online. What does it do?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6j5Ri.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6j5Ri.png&quot; alt=&quot;Screenshot of FlashPrint settings with Control Module highlighted&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13607" LastActivityDate="2021-08-16T16:51:27.283" Title="What does the &quot;Control Module&quot; setting in FlashPrint 5.1 do?" Tags="|slicing|flashforge|flashprint|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="17927" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-08-16T11:26:44.153" Score="3" ViewCount="2295" Body="&lt;p&gt;In FlashPrint there is an &lt;strong&gt;Extrusion Ratio&lt;/strong&gt; setting. It's set to 97 % for the stock PLA profile and 107 % for the stock PETG profile.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would've thought these would be 100 % by default (and the same for all materials). Why is it that these defaults make sense and they differ? Why would you need to push more PETG for the same print than PLA if they're the same diameter filament?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fiXhW.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;FlashPrint Extrusion Ratio setting&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fiXhW.png&quot; alt=&quot;FlashPrint Extrusion Ratio setting&quot; title=&quot;FlashPrint Extrusion Ratio setting&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13607" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-08-16T12:02:33.290" LastActivityDate="2021-08-17T00:24:47.347" Title="Why does FlashPrint have different (non-100%) default extrusion ratios for different filaments?" Tags="|extrusion|flashforge|flashprint|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="17928" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17927" CreationDate="2021-08-16T12:19:49.807" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I may be entirely out of my league here, But I think it's related to Viscosity, or how thin or thick the fluid plastic is while hot and Temperature Expansion, how much larger in volume the fluid plastic will be hot compared to cold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6996" LastActivityDate="2021-08-16T12:19:49.807" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="17929" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17920" CreationDate="2021-08-16T13:37:27.247" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;For safety on a project like this, it's best to have a self-contained chamber to run a life test until the propeller falls apart.  Once a material and design has a reasonable lifetime, then you could use the print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Reputable propeller manufacturers will already do this.  They may even run a shorter burn-in test on product being sold to eliminate defects.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would suspect PLA as being too brittle.  Nylon carbon fiber is probably a better material, but not easy to use.  Unless you're wanting to experiment with propeller design, printing propellers will cost you more then buying them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As Brydon mentioned life testing usually does acceleration such as twice the rate.  Temperature is also important.  Plastic is more brittle cold and softer hot.  You may even want to off balance the axis slightly to accelerate the testing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15075" LastEditorUserId="15075" LastEditDate="2021-08-17T16:31:24.273" LastActivityDate="2021-08-17T16:31:24.273" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="17930" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17845" CreationDate="2021-08-16T13:46:04.217" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;A very dumb, simple way to send GCODE to your printer from the terminal can be achieved with:&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;code&gt;echo &amp;quot;gcode here&amp;quot; &amp;gt; /dev/ttyS0&lt;/code&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;/dev/ttyS0 can vary, It may be /dev/ttyACM0, /dev/ttyUSB0, or any similar with a different number.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can figure out which path is correct for your printer with the command &lt;code&gt;ls /dev/tty*&lt;/code&gt; and comparing the results with your printer plugged in and unplugged, Whichever device pops up new should be your printer.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;As well, Some printers may appear in &lt;code&gt;/dev/serial/by-id/&lt;/code&gt; instead of &lt;code&gt;/dev/tty*&lt;/code&gt;, so if you can't find your printer normally, try &lt;code&gt;ls /dev/serial/by-id/&lt;/code&gt; instead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this doesn't seem to work, you may need to change the serial settings using the command &lt;code&gt;sudo stty -f /dev/ttyS0 115200&lt;/code&gt;, replacing /dev/ttyS0 and 115200 to the device path and printer baud rate respectively.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are looking for a more bi-directional solution, you can use the command &lt;code&gt;screen&lt;/code&gt;, which is usually installed by default. You can use it like this:&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;code&gt;screen /dev/ttyS0 115200&lt;/code&gt; and exit by Control+A, then pressing D&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Another solution would be the &lt;code&gt;pronsole&lt;/code&gt; utility from Printrun/Pronterface, which can be installed using &lt;code&gt;sudo apt install printrun&lt;/code&gt; and invoked with &lt;code&gt;pronsole.py&lt;/code&gt; and you can then connect to your printer with the syntax&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;code&gt;connect /dev/ttyS0 115200&lt;/code&gt; or simply &lt;code&gt;connect&lt;/code&gt;, as pronsole has the ability to autoconnect to your printer. Exit with the &lt;code&gt;exit&lt;/code&gt; command.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6996" LastActivityDate="2021-08-16T13:46:04.217" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="17931" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17845" CreationDate="2021-08-16T16:04:57.803" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sending G-code to a printer via a serial interface is a bidirectional operation that requires waiting for acknowledgment from the printer before sending further commands. In theory, this shouldn't be needed and hardware flow control (or even XON/XOFF flow control if the hardware is not available) should be used, but that's not the way things were done. Thus, sending G-code with &amp;quot;dumb&amp;quot; commands like &amp;quot;cat&amp;quot; does not work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to send individual commands manually, you can use a program like Minicom (or screen's built-in serial terminal support) and process the acknowledgments yourself. But if you want to really stream print jobs, you need at least a minimal program for it. This can be written in a few lines of Python or Perl if you like. I know there are examples of such but I don't have the links handy and haven't tried any of them to be able to recommend one, anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-08-16T17:36:45.763" LastActivityDate="2021-08-16T17:36:45.763" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="17932" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17926" CreationDate="2021-08-16T16:51:27.283" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://old.reddit.com/r/FlashForge/comments/p5dwrf/flashprint_5_release/h96cpuf/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;On Reddit, someone pointed out&lt;/a&gt; that this likely refers to which items temperature is being adjusted by the tickbox above (and table below). It seems quite obvious now :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13607" LastActivityDate="2021-08-16T16:51:27.283" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="17933" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17927" CreationDate="2021-08-17T00:24:47.347" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If your extruder uses spring tension to hold the filament against the hob, the effective diameter of the filament at the point the hob contacts, which determines the amount moved, is a function of the compressibility of the material. Thus, it makes sense to use a higher flow ratio for more compressible filaments. However, this is very much a matter of what type of extruder your machine has, and doesn't apply if you have a tension arm holding the idler bearing at fixed distance from the hob.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2021-08-17T00:24:47.347" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="17934" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17936" CreationDate="2021-08-17T06:17:31.150" Score="2" ViewCount="1745" Body="&lt;p&gt;I switched over to a new filament recently (Sunlu PLA) and I can't get the first layer details to stick properly without squishing the first layer way too much. Prints don't always fail, but little circles and the initial skirt rarely stick as they should. The issue appears to be that when it starts to extrude at a new location, it's not always close enough or extruding fast enough for the initial filament to stick and it gets lifted on the next pass. Other things stick just fine, it's just at these transitions where things lift a little. My bed is level and in general things are printing just fine. It's just the start/end of initial layers that tend to have problems and lift just enough to cause problems later.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I lower my nozzle enough, I can get it to stick more reliably but then I have other problems because the first layer is so squished that the ridges rise and cause problems later.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've read dozens of articles and tried all these things already:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Dried my filament&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Adjusted my Z-offset (BLTouch)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Attempted to recalibrate my retraction settings&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Replaced my nozzle, cleaned the hotend, and replaced the Bowden tube.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tried different temperature settings&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cleaned the bed&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Calibrated my E-steps and played around with flow rates further&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It used to print fine, so I guess it could just be the filament but I'm hoping there's something I can still do. I'm using an Ender 3 v2 with a BLTouch, new springs, replaced Bowden tube and red metal extruder. Printing at 210 °C with 60 °C bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.imgur.com/AowQLWS.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Beginning of print on printer bed with stringing errors&quot; title=&quot;Beginning of print on printer bed with stringing errors&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.imgur.com/zzPQM4f.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Beginning of print on printer bed with detached skirt&quot; title=&quot;Beginning of print on printer bed with detached skirt&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30800" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-08-18T01:21:31.847" LastActivityDate="2021-08-18T01:21:31.847" Title="Stringing on first layer unless I squish it" Tags="|print-quality|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="17935" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-08-17T18:41:32.747" Score="1" ViewCount="912" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just upgraded my CR-10 to a 32-bit board with Marlin and a BLTouch for bed-leveling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is my process:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Run bed-leveling and save setting to EEPROM&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Make sure that software end-stops are off with &lt;code&gt;S211 S0&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Move Nozzle to Z = 0.1 mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use a .1 mm feeler gauge and baby-stepping to create a 0.1 mm nozzle height.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Save the baby-stepping value.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Run print.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The print then shoves the nozzle well below bed level and scratches up the bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I use the following G-code at the start of each print.  (Added by my slicer)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;    G28 ; home all axes&#xA;    M420 S1 Z25; Enable Bed mesh leveling&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What am I doing wrong?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1349" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-10-06T11:33:37.433" LastActivityDate="2024-02-23T16:04:00.447" Title="Z-Probe height isn't working" Tags="|bed-leveling|nozzle|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="17936" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17934" CreationDate="2021-08-17T19:13:14.337" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Try using 75 °C for the bed and 220 °C or highest recommended extrusion temperature for Sunlu PLA for the first layer, then lower the temperatures to 210 °C with 60 or 65 °C bed for subsequent layers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other options are Elmer's glue stick, a glue stick specified for a 3D printer bed, or hair spray.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15075" LastActivityDate="2021-08-17T19:13:14.337" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="17937" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-08-18T03:55:27.340" Score="2" ViewCount="566" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ever since my original Creality CR-10S Pro heated bed quit and was replaced, I have had trouble with bed adhesion and printed first layer material warping using PLA and auto bed leveling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am getting bed temperature variation between 71 °C (160 °F) to 76 °C (169 °F) throughout the 320x310 mm bed.  Is this amount of temperature variation typical? I don't have any measured temperature variation data for the original heated bed, so don't have any reference data to compare.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: the manual (and about every internet site visited) suggested 60 °C for bed temperature for PLA, but I never could get any material adhesion until I raised the bed temperature to 80 °C using the stock heated bed. I have had no real issues with bed adhesion until the original heated bed died after about one year of heavy use with 10+ 1 kg filament reels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not sure how much more I can do to determine, what is suggested as &amp;quot;my bed adhesion problem&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Have tried everything:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;painter tape worked the best, until trying to get the tape off of print&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;glass with dimples&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;glass with a glue stick&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;new bed sticker&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;cleaning after every print&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;varying print head height.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only thing left is the filament. manufacture.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Through all my tests it takes 80 °C to get the first layer to stick and if I reduce temp to 60 °C after the first layer, the print comes off.   Could a poor performing set of fans cause this to occur?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30817" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-08-26T22:11:36.717" LastActivityDate="2021-08-26T22:11:36.717" Title="Acceptable temperature variation in heated bed" Tags="|troubleshooting|heated-bed|temperature|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="17939" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="253" CreationDate="2021-08-18T06:18:27.920" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;First, I print ABS and PLA models.  I have accidentally printed PLA at ABS settings with absolutely no strange effects (being printed at 100 °C heat bed and 225-240 °C extruder temperature).  If the mixture is truly homogenized  together,  I do not see a problem  in mixing the two materials, however,  the cost of a recycler and winder are still cost prohibitive. Like the above poster said, experimenting would be necessary to get the settings right.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Technically, it should work .&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30818" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-08-18T08:05:38.713" LastActivityDate="2021-08-18T08:05:38.713" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="17940" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17937" CreationDate="2021-08-18T06:22:53.450" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;80 °C is way too hot for the bed with PLA. The highest bed temperature you can use without serious deformation of the printed part is around the glass transition temperature of the material - 55-60 °C for PLA. And even that will seriously inhibit the cooling of layers near the bed. Below 40 °C or even unheated is ideal to avoid warping.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Go back to reasonable bed temperatures and figure out the root cause of your adhesion problem rather than trying to use heat as a workaround for poor adhesion. Maybe your surface is bad and needs to be replaced, or just in need of cleaning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-08-18T21:45:40.097" LastActivityDate="2021-08-18T21:45:40.097" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="17941" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="253" CreationDate="2021-08-18T09:11:42.460" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;CNC Kitchen tested PLA up to 265 °C or 270 °C in a couple of videos, for example&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/mwS_2R2mIvo?start=0&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The plastic (it may depend on the brand) holds just fine up to 250 °C, but (from personal experience) bridges become really difficult to tune. Strength is very good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;ABS can be printed properly starting from 235 °C (depending on the brand). At 235 °C layer adhesion may be suboptimal, but you are mixing it, so it's not obvious that the result will be poor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, to summarise you have a common range 235-250 °C where you can print both plastics properly when pure, so it is reasonable to think that by mixing them you will have at least the same temperature range (the bottom may even be extended a bit, as it happens with PC-ABS which prints properly colder than pure PC).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I would say that it is a worth test with likely positive results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In fact, ABS-PLA blends exist and are very good blends for industrial use as the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.terrafilum.com/products/composite/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Terrafilum&lt;/a&gt; site states:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;ABS_PLA_Blend&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Strong PLA Industrial Grade PLA with superior flow and&#xA;strength performance; designed for parts where PLA is desired but&#xA;where the parts will be subjected to repeated use; ideal for parts&#xA;that may need bend slightly without breaking during use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2338" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-08-18T21:48:16.777" LastActivityDate="2021-08-18T21:48:16.777" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="17942" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-08-18T18:52:04.237" Score="5" ViewCount="1523" Body="&lt;p&gt;Using 3D printing I'd like to create a text oversized keycap that uses several strong LEDs to make the text light as red or green, depending on status.  It's quite similar to what are called annunciators on aircraft:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6B1lY.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6B1lY.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Annunciator Panel example without the panels being turned into MX switch keycaps&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Jce1q.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Jce1q.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Annunciator removed from a panel where it is separated&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd like to create an MX keycap with this ability and size with the backlighting changing from green to red to indicate something is on or off. I understand including the MX connector in the center, but how would I print a black panel and leave the text transparent, or at least transluscent?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30824" LastActivityDate="2021-08-25T00:32:57.700" Title="How can I print a backlit keycap?" Tags="|3d-models|3d-design|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="17943" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12056" CreationDate="2021-08-19T12:57:28.447" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have had a similar problem after years of clean printing and spent ages messing with it until I read this article and cleaned my lead screws on the Z-axis - a quick hit with a brush seems to have fixed it - fingers crossed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Problem: my layers looked over extruded in random areas inside models and by the time I hit the top layer, I got some pretty serious results with blobs big enough to change the detail and fill in large gaps with ooze.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tweaked my Cura settings for ages in case I had retraction set wrong, wiped back to factory defaults, regressed to earlier versions of Cura - no luck,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Replaced my hot end assembly pretty much three times over, no luck except to clog a few brand new hot ends lol&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Used different filaments, dried filaments including new ones in the oven for a day, no luck. Probably wasted a couple of rolls of PLA persisting with trying to get a job completed through the problem.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cleaned the lead screw.  It may have improved it somewhat but is difficult to tell as it is somewhat random.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;UPDATE: The problem is not fixed, unfortunately.  I will try a more detailed clean of the lead screws tomorrow, but I ran a 100 mm clean Z-axis raising test and noted it was pretty close to the mark, but interestingly it was about 99 mm on the left side and 101 mm on the right, although I doubt this could fully account for the problem I am having from about 2 mm up the axis unless the z height loss occurs in one concentrated section right near the bottom. The printer previously printed well and has not been damaged in any physical way that I am aware of.  I will consider if there is any degradation in the functionality of the stepper motor by swapping them if more cleanup doesn't help.   Keen for any other ideas if you have any.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30830" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-08-21T12:37:25.753" LastActivityDate="2021-08-21T12:37:25.753" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="17944" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-08-20T02:22:03.773" Score="4" ViewCount="2316" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've had an Ender 5 for quite a while and it has worked phenomenally, but recently I had encountered a MIN_TEMP error so I ordered a new hotend and Creality silent board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because this is an Ender 5, I had to change the firmware from the default on the new board and I did that using VS Code. I changed all the parameters I need to but when I plugged in the printer to upload the code, the printer shows up under USB in device manager but with the error:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are no compatible drivers for this device.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a beginner, I have no idea what to do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30837" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2021-08-20T15:13:14.803" LastActivityDate="2021-08-20T15:13:14.803" Title="Creality 4.2.7 problem connecting to Windows" Tags="|marlin|creality-ender-5|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="17945" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17966" CreationDate="2021-08-20T04:33:03.290" Score="2" ViewCount="257" Body="&lt;p&gt;My designs are invisible on 3D printer LCD screen, i.e. the name of my design is showing up, but the part is missing and if I slice it with the software given by the 3D-printer company it works, but if I use any other slicer like Cura or Matter Control, it's not working.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm unable to add images as I'm new here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a Tronxy X5SA 3D printer with a touch display.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I contacted the company, but they can't understand my issue, that's why seeking your help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30840" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-08-20T06:28:39.773" LastActivityDate="2021-08-22T21:10:05.003" Title="My 3D printer shows inbuilt designs, but my designs are invisible" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|3d-models|3d-design|tronxy-x5|mattercontrol|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="17948" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17944" CreationDate="2021-08-20T13:21:03.260" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;By default, Windows does not come packaged with drivers for the CH340 USB Serial chipset the Creality Silent board has installed. To get your computer to properly recognize the printer, you will need to install the CH340 Driver software from WCH's &lt;a href=&quot;https://wch-ic.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;website.&lt;/a&gt; (the company that manufactures the CH340 chip)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As of August 2021, the download for the drivers can be found at:&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wch-ic.com/downloads/CH341SER_EXE.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.wch-ic.com/downloads/CH341SER_EXE.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6996" LastActivityDate="2021-08-20T13:21:03.260" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="17949" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17942" CreationDate="2021-08-20T13:37:58.487" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a few possible ways you could go about this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you have a multi-material printer, you may be able to print with both a transparent or translucent material for the internal structure of the print and an opaque material for the external parts of the print. PET(G) may be suitable for this purpose but is harder to print compared to standard PLA.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You can print the entire print in a translucent material, mask off the lettering at the front and spray paint the rest of the print.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You can create a multi-part print, where one outer 'shell' is printed in opaque filament, and another piece in translucent material, which will mate together after printing.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You can deboss the lettering of your print, and with the letters face down to the bed, print the first layers in an opaque material, and then swap filaments to a translucent material for the rest of the print, spray painting the upper parts of the print to match a uniform color, while leaving the bottom untouched.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are several advantages and disadvantages to each method:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Requires that you have a (typically) expensive upgrade installed onto your machine, but would be the most straightforward way to go about this.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Requires precise masking of your letters to make them come out looking nice, but will give you sharper, more defined edges on the lettering.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Will require you to design for tolerances for the two parts, or add glue in the post-processing steps, But could be produced en masse with two printers, one for each material.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Can be a bit fiddly, and will possibly result in an undesired look, with the lettering being debossed into the part, But would be less complex than the other options.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pick whichever method you wish, or try all of them to see which gives you the best results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6996" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-08-20T14:09:30.880" LastActivityDate="2021-08-20T14:09:30.880" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="17951" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17960" CreationDate="2021-08-20T23:41:14.893" Score="3" ViewCount="896" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've had an Ender 5 for about a year without problems. But just recently, the printer is not lifting the Z-axis before printing. It will home great but when it moves to print the purge line it lifts the bed down about 2-3 millimeters and the nozzle is not even close to touching the bed anymore.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've checked the starting G-code in Cura and it all looks fine but I'm still having problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Current Start G-code:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;M201 X500.00 Y500.00 Z100.00 E5000.00 ;Setup machine max acceleration&#xA;M203 X500.00 Y500.00 Z10.00 E50.00 ;Setup machine max feedrate&#xA;M204 P500.00 R1000.00 T500.00 ;Setup Print/Retract/Travel acceleration&#xA;M205 X8.00 Y8.00 Z0.40 E5.00 ;Setup Jerk&#xA;M220 S100 ;Reset Feedrate&#xA;M221 S100 ;Reset Flowrate&#xA;&#xA;G28 ;Home&#xA;&#xA;G92 E0 ;Reset Extruder&#xA;G1 Z2.0 F3000 ;Move Z Axis up&#xA;G1 X10.1 Y20 Z0.28 F5000.0 ;Move to start position&#xA;G1 X10.1 Y200.0 Z0.20 F1500.0 E15 ;Draw the first line&#xA;G1 X10.4 Y200.0 Z0.20 F5000.0 ;Move to side a little&#xA;G1 X10.4 Y20 Z0.20 F1500.0 E30 ;Draw the second line&#xA;G92 E0 ;Reset Extruder&#xA;G1 Z2.0 F3000 ;Move Z Axis up&#xA;M503&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30837" LastEditorUserId="30837" LastEditDate="2021-08-21T18:50:58.650" LastActivityDate="2022-10-23T12:21:35.920" Title="Ender 5 won't lift the Z-Axis before printing" Tags="|troubleshooting|z-axis|creality-ender-5|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="17952" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-08-21T04:24:57.350" Score="1" ViewCount="84" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ok I’m so new at Blender. Half the time it’s knowing what question you have to ask to get the answer you need...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to make a 3D printable warrior type action figure but I only have one very detailed frontal view. Can I input that image into somewhere and it gives me a 3D model to start from? Like will it generate a 360 view? I have no idea where to start.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30850" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-08-21T04:46:56.723" LastActivityDate="2021-08-26T13:20:49.903" Title="Can I build a 3D image of a warrior type character if I only have one image of that character from one frontal view" Tags="|3d-models|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="17953" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-08-21T05:29:22.617" Score="2" ViewCount="447" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm getting zits or blobs in lithophanes while printing on my Ender 3 and 10S Pro. I tried a suggestion: change resolution in mesh fixes of Cura to 0.5 (from 0.05 default). That removed the zits.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But now there are white patches as shown in the image. I reduced the resolution to 0.2 but to no avail.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyone else encountered this problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Xpqvz.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Example of white patches in a lithophane print&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Xpqvz.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Example of white patches in a lithophane print&quot; title=&quot;Example of white patches in a lithophane print&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tKl6c.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Example of zits/blobs in a lithophane print&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tKl6c.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Example of zits/blobs in a lithophane print&quot; title=&quot;Example of zits/blobs in a lithophane print&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18559" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-08-21T12:34:00.190" LastActivityDate="2021-09-24T12:35:06.210" Title="Blobs or white patches in lithophane" Tags="|creality-ender-3|ultimaker-cura|troubleshooting|creality-cr-10|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="17954" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-08-21T13:35:49.197" Score="3" ViewCount="213" Body="&lt;p&gt;Recently got a Creator 3 (v2) and single-colour prints are great, but dual colour Benchies are coming out quite bad. Initially, I thought it was X/Y calibration as when I printed a dual-colour cube, I could feel a slight bump as I ran my fingernail across the joins. I tweaked that and the cube now seems good (pics attached), but the Benchy came out the same, with a lot of scruffy plastic in several places.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had the same with some old Balco filament and now with Technology Outlet filament (all four reels have printed fine on their own, the prints are really good).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm using Flashprint 5.1 for slicing, with mostly default settings (though infill reduced to 10 % and temp increased from 200 °C to 210 °C for the Technology Outlet filament). I'm using an Ooze Shield and a brim. Stock 0.4 mm nozzles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any suggestions on what the issue might be or what I can do to improve it some? The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.3dbenchy.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/07/Dualprint-3DBenchy-Main-image-Dual.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;dual-colour pic on the Benchy website&lt;/a&gt; looks way better, so I don't think it's just that these parts of the models are difficult to print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KLOF7.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Dual-colour Benchy highlighting printing errors&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KLOF7.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Dual-colour Benchy highlighting printing errors&quot; title=&quot;Dual-colour Benchy highlighting printing errors&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dtNCh.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Another dual colour Benchy with printing errors&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dtNCh.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Another dual-colour Benchy with printing errors&quot; title=&quot;Another dual colour Benchy with printing errors&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8UjKx.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;A dual-colour cube showing good X/Y alignment&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8UjKx.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;A dual-colour cube showing good X/Y alignment&quot; title=&quot;A dual-colour cube showing good X/Y alignment&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2wEj3.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Another side of a dual-colour cube showing good X/Y alignment&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2wEj3.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Another side of a dual-colour cube showing good X/Y alignment&quot; title=&quot;Another side of a dual-colour cube showing good X/Y alignment&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13607" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-08-21T18:33:43.593" LastActivityDate="2021-08-22T13:09:14.140" Title="Dual-colour prints on Creator 3 are very messy, though single colour very good and nozzle alignment seems good" Tags="|dual-nozzle|flashforge-creator|flashprint|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="17955" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17954" CreationDate="2021-08-21T17:14:03.920" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You have a problem with retraction or more broadly with what happens to the material in the inactive extruder while it's waiting to be used again. I'm not sure what your printer does, but there are various strategies for how to handle this, which can possibly be mixed:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;doing nothing and letting it make a mess&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a large amount of extra retraction to get the filament entirely out of the heated zone, followed by a slow unretract into the heated zone when the extruder becomes active again&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;using a priming tower (sacrificial junk part) to re-prime the inactive nozzle when it's activated again&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;priming in thin air and using a wiping brush to clean the inactive nozzle when it's activated again&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;maybe others&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You need to figure out what options are available for your printer and how to tune them to get results you're happy with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2021-08-21T17:14:03.920" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="17956" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17952" CreationDate="2021-08-21T18:43:59.570" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In short, no. A 2D image has insufficient information to determine a 3D form.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to do this yourself, what you could do is start with the 2D outline in a program like Blender (as 0scar mentioned in a comment), extrude it to make a thin &amp;quot;cardboard cutout&amp;quot;, then begin shaping it into three dimensions from there. Imagine it like cutting a slab of Play-doh with a cookie cutter matching your 2D outline, then using the picture and your imagination as a guide to form it into 3D. I'm not sure whether something like that makes any more sense than just starting from scratch modeling it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively, nowadays there &lt;em&gt;might&lt;/em&gt; be some &amp;quot;AI&amp;quot; models to produce a reasonable guess at what 3D structure you want, with the knowledge that it's supposed to be a person, for a 2D image you provide. I'm not sure if there's anything yet of usable quality, but it's something you could look for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2021-08-21T18:43:59.570" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="17957" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-08-21T21:22:00.797" Score="4" ViewCount="840" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am having extreme extrusion problems with my Ender 5. I had nearly perfect quality since I got it about 2 years ago but recently I replaced the board with a Creality 4.2.7 Silent Board and I'm having some problems. I've calibrated the E-steps to where is consistently extrudes 100 mm but what should be a 20x20x20 mm cube is 20x20x10 mm (as shown in the picture). Since I haven't really had experience with this sort of problem yet, I have no idea how to fix it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hEgcE.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;half height print cube&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hEgcE.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;half height print cube&quot; title=&quot;half height print cube&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30837" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-08-21T21:41:13.357" LastActivityDate="2021-08-23T13:05:22.540" Title="Printed object is half the height it should be" Tags="|print-quality|creality-ender-5|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="17958" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17957" CreationDate="2021-08-21T21:28:08.557" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the image is suppose to be a 20 mm calibration Cube when it comes out half the height, your problem is the steps per millimeter of the Z-axis, not the extruder. The object you printer is half the height it is supposed to be, so the bed isn't lowering enough and requires more steps. You should double the current value.  If the bed doesn't lower enough per layer, the layer advances only half the value it should be while the extruder isn't aware of this half layer height and deposits the normal amount of filament looking as if it over-extrudes per layer. This does look as if there is something wrong with the extruder, but in fact this is caused by the Z-axis movement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With &lt;a href=&quot;https://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M092.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;code&gt;M92&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/a&gt; you can get and set the correct value:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Get the current steps-per-unit settings using &lt;code&gt;M92&lt;/code&gt; with no parameters or &lt;code&gt;M503&lt;/code&gt; on older versions of Marlin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the Z-axis has 400 steps/mm in your current setup, you should use 800 steps/mm instead. Note, the steps per millimeter value depends on the driver's and the micro-stepping setting. You need to work that out if you change your board (driver type and micro-stepping jumper or software setting).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-08-23T13:05:22.540" LastActivityDate="2021-08-23T13:05:22.540" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="17959" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17953" CreationDate="2021-08-21T23:00:21.547" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Maybe it's a bad batch of filament, with dirt or uneven thickness that wouldn't be noticeable in regular printing.  Have you tried a different spool or brand?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30746" LastActivityDate="2021-08-21T23:00:21.547" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="17960" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17951" CreationDate="2021-08-21T23:15:55.860" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;After hours of testing (which included reinstalling firmware, formatting various SD cards, and changing G-code and slicer settings), I did find a function to restore factory defaults and that did the trick. I'm still not sure how something wrong got stored in the memory but it did and resetting to factory defaults worked.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30837" LastActivityDate="2021-08-21T23:15:55.860" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="17961" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17942" CreationDate="2021-08-21T23:17:29.377" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cut the letters out of the key, so they print as holes all the way to the light source.  Print in black.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;fill the holes with clear silicon caulk or leave empty.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30746" LastActivityDate="2021-08-21T23:17:29.377" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="17962" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-08-22T00:51:17.133" Score="2" ViewCount="41" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Creality CR-10. Every time I go to level the printer and start printing, the starting print height is way higher. After I adjust the height, the filament looks weird when printed, smaller or squished almost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't see a setting that looks incorrect and I have printed this item and many others before. I don't know how to fix it. I have cleaned the nozzle, changed the filament and the filament tube. I don't want to drop a lot of money on a new one but I'm struggling to figure it out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30861" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-08-22T01:07:26.503" LastActivityDate="2021-08-22T01:07:26.503" Title="Level height doesn't match the starting print height" Tags="|z-axis|creality-cr-10|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="17963" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-08-22T02:55:16.230" Score="3" ViewCount="1587" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just a simple question about my FEP sheet getting dented after print.&#xA;I just bought an Elegoo Mars 2 Pro and had trouble getting it to stick to the bed, after some painful bed leveling and realizing my exposure times were too low for maroon resin, I finally got it to stick to the bed by the 4th print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now before I start my next print, I want to know what causes the indents in the FEP sheet below so I can prevent it from happening again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Jqxah.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;FEP sheet with noticeable dents&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Jqxah.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;FEP sheet with noticeable dents&quot; title=&quot;FEP sheet with noticeable dents&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it too High exposure time, bed leveled too low/tight, or both?&#xA;Now I will also note, that this print was with the standard rook test print the mars recommends you do first, also that my print was very hard to remove from the bed when finished, I had to use a lot of force to rip it off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30757" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-08-22T03:23:03.527" LastActivityDate="2021-09-10T13:10:43.120" Title="What causes the FEP to be dented during resin printing?" Tags="|resin|elegoo-mars|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="17964" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17952" CreationDate="2021-08-22T09:27:05.740" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes and no. It is sufficient for making a 3D model, but not in the way you want. Basically, you cannot turn a 2D image into a 3D model automatically, so you will have to do it manually. The image you have can be used as a reference image, and you will have to use some artistic freedom when creating the backside. It is basically the digital version of creating a clay sculpture based on an image. Perfectly possible, but it does require quite a bit of skill and patience.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to learn how to do it, search for beginner tutorials on YouTube about ‘sculpting’ in Blender.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10659" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-08-22T12:33:35.750" LastActivityDate="2021-08-22T12:33:35.750" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="17965" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17954" CreationDate="2021-08-22T13:09:14.140" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've tracked down the cause of this, although I don't yet know a solution. It only occurs with dual-colour prints and I noticed the stringing is coming from when the nozzle moves &lt;em&gt;away&lt;/em&gt; from the print, not from the new nozzle coming towards it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After watching some prints, I realised what it is. After finishing with a nozzle, the bed is lowered (like a z-hop), and it's thta action that is pulling filament out of the nozzle causing the string. For a standard single-nozzle print, this action does not occur, and no filament is pulled out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only z-hop option in Flashprint is disabled, so I'm not hopeful I can fix it here though. Perhaps other slices may do better (I'm going to try Cura next).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13607" LastActivityDate="2021-08-22T13:09:14.140" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="17966" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17945" CreationDate="2021-08-22T17:06:05.883" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Install the &amp;quot;Chitu code&amp;quot; plugin from the Cura website, some companies use the Chitu board as their printer's CPU and Tronxy does that. Without the plugin, it won't show a preview of your design and also it won't print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30871" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-08-22T21:10:05.003" LastActivityDate="2021-08-22T21:10:05.003" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="17967" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17824" CreationDate="2021-08-22T17:23:00.680" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is a speed controller or driver connected to the fans via the main circuit board, check that, because voltage drop usually occurs on the driver IC or circuit, disconnect the fans and touch your multimeter probe on the IC pins and pass the M-code.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you see a voltage drop as before, then the driver has the issue, if the driver gives 12 V or closer voltage then supply direct 12 V to the fans and test them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;if both of them are working, then some supportive component in your mainboard is at fault.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30871" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-08-22T20:20:21.540" LastActivityDate="2021-08-22T20:20:21.540" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="17969" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-08-23T19:50:21.373" Score="1" ViewCount="128" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently bought Creality CR 6 SE, I learned there are third party firmware available, I want to know which one is best known for CR-6&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30887" LastActivityDate="2021-08-23T19:50:21.373" Title="Creality CR 6 SE firmware" Tags="|firmware|creality|creality-cr-6|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="17971" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-08-24T08:19:24.297" Score="1" ViewCount="71" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm planning to print using a public 3D printer (Ultimaker 3) and was wondering if my settings will work. There is a 4 hour time limit. The parts don't need to be strong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've provided some screenshots of the model I'm planning to print and of the settings I'm planning to use. Dimensions of the print are 61.1 x 75.0 x 50.0 mm. Filament is PLA. Also if there is still something I can do to speed up the print, I'm happy to hear your suggestions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RuTLk.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RuTLk.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gaGlz.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gaGlz.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tJzyt.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tJzyt.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kZR0z.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kZR0z.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30891" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-08-24T11:36:40.690" LastActivityDate="2021-08-24T11:49:22.330" Title="My first 3D print, will my setting work?" Tags="|pla|infill|layer-height|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="17972" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17971" CreationDate="2021-08-24T11:49:22.330" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could look into the &amp;quot;combing&amp;quot; option, this may prevent some excessive retracts per layer, reducing the print time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should add some infill percentage to give the walls stability and provide a base for the top. It is difficult to see if the holes run through the whole object. If so, you definitely need some infill. PLA usually doesn't need a brim (blue lines on the bed around the print parts, option &amp;quot;adhesion&amp;quot;), but it will not be a problem if you use it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having an Ultimaker 3E I usually print one object at a time. The more objects on the plate the higher the change that something happens causing you to loose all your prints. You could print one object first to test it out (limited time) adjust and print the others later.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2021-08-24T11:49:22.330" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="17973" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11562" CreationDate="2021-08-24T13:35:31.510" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am looking at your picture, and I realize that it is not only that the perimeter is detaching from the infill, but also that the perimeter is breaking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once the perimeter breaks, the weaker connection with the infill will surely break, too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could try:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Using more than two perimeter layers.  Go big. Try five.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Add a fillet where the ring attaches so that the force is not focused on a point.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Choose an infill percentage and pattern that maximizes the contact between the perimeter and the body.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Change the angle on the bed at which the keychain is printed so that the infill maximally connects with the breaking point.  That might make the ring be 45 degrees off the X and Y axes.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2082" LastActivityDate="2021-08-24T13:35:31.510" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="17974" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-08-24T16:36:18.097" Score="1" ViewCount="1566" Body="&lt;p&gt;My new Creality CR6 SE was doing good but suddenly its Z-Axis (head extruder) randomly sometimes stays above the required configurations and sometimes below.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example after auto leveling when I adjust the Z-axis with paper under it, it aligns fine at 0.20 mm after print if I start next print at same Z-axis configurations 0.20 mm randomly some time it gets below the past configurations and the extruder is very close to the bed or even badly touching the bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But sometime after the next print, it's above the bed that filament stays around and does not stick with the bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the solution is every time I start new printing I have to level Z-axis, after trying it a lot, it is always best set at 0.20 mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have to set the Z-Axis each time I print; how can I avoid this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30887" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-08-26T03:22:43.700" LastActivityDate="2024-02-12T12:04:10.503" Title="Creality CR 6 SE Z-axis issue" Tags="|z-axis|creality-cr-6|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="17975" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17942" CreationDate="2021-08-25T00:07:26.917" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a different plan.  What I did was get the resin keycap molds from Adafruit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My plan is to print out the legend using black PLA (and obeying &amp;quot;stencil rules&amp;quot; for detachable parts), just the size of the keycap.  Then mold, using clear resin, the top part of the cap with the negative printout inside.  Cure under UV to get a thin (1 mm? 1.5 mm?) keycap.  Then mix up an opaque batch of resin, fill in the rest of the mold, and cure that under UV.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10900" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-08-25T00:32:57.700" LastActivityDate="2021-08-25T00:32:57.700" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="17976" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17974" CreationDate="2021-08-25T00:25:43.360" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are you saying you have to level the bed each time you print, or did I misunderstand?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Leveling every time is pretty standard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The question appears to be &amp;quot;my bed doesn't stay level. What's wrong?&amp;quot;. So my answer is, &amp;quot;That's normal, nothing's wrong.&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30746" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2024-01-13T11:58:35.260" LastActivityDate="2024-01-13T11:58:35.260" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="17977" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-08-25T05:06:33.653" Score="7" ViewCount="143" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I print &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2482476&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;this file&lt;/a&gt;, one section smears. The print head is dragged through the soft filament.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At first I thought my aluminum bed was warped, so I upgraded to a glass bed. Test prints were much better, but still had a section that smeared.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My suspicion is that one of the motors needs to be adjusted just enough to balance out the one sector where the print head is too close to the bed. Is there an easier way to calibrate? Is it even possible to do a manual calibration on a per-axis basis on a delta-style printer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28400" LastEditorUserId="28400" LastEditDate="2021-08-26T03:32:55.870" LastActivityDate="2023-06-23T11:14:04.973" Title="What options exist for augmenting the automatic bed-leveling?" Tags="|bed-leveling|calibration|delta|monoprice-mini-delta|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="17978" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-08-25T19:03:41.963" Score="1" ViewCount="154" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iORIT.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;3D renderings of four models&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iORIT.png&quot; alt=&quot;3D rendering of four models&quot; title=&quot;3D renderings of four models&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using Cura or another slicer if needed, how could I print the part that needs bending using a structure similar to the one used for rafts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In Cura, for reference they look like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GkOsR.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;A Cura preview of a raft with crosshatch&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GkOsR.png&quot; alt=&quot;A Cura preview of an open raft&quot; title=&quot;A Cura preview of a raft with crosshatch&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VRlL6.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;A Cura preview of an open raft&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VRlL6.png&quot; alt=&quot;A Cura preview of a raft with crosshatch&quot; title=&quot;A Cura preview of an open raft&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/h43Im.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;A Cura preview of a horizontal raft&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/h43Im.png&quot; alt=&quot;A Cura preview of a horizontal raft&quot; title=&quot;A Cura preview of a horizontal raft&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UuaO7.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;A Cura preview of a raft 90 degrees to the previous model&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UuaO7.png&quot; alt=&quot;A Cura preview of a raft 90 degrees to the previous model&quot; title=&quot;A Cura preview of a raft 90 degrees to the previous model&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know this structure is probably good enough for the base of this object, even though other problems may arise later. So how can  I have something close to this structure in Cura for a part of the model?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18571" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-08-26T03:21:20.353" LastActivityDate="2021-08-26T03:21:20.353" Title="How to print a part of the model using the same structure as a raft?" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|pla|slicing|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="17979" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17986" CreationDate="2021-08-26T03:09:13.967" Score="-2" ViewCount="470" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently installed the BigTreeTech SKR E3 mini V2.0 on my Ender 5 and I'm having some print quality problems even when using the same settings as before the board swap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The edges are rough and curling and there is some bulging on the X and Y-axis. I printed a 20 mm cube and after measuring it, the middle is about 19.9 mm wide (on the X and Y-axis) but the top half and bottom half of those same sides measure up to be around 19.6 mm which is a pretty large difference when compared the near-perfect ones I used to achieve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've tried calibrating the E-steps and lowering the wall speed to 20 mm/s but I've had no luck. Is there anything I can do to fix it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30837" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2024-01-14T22:19:21.703" LastActivityDate="2024-02-21T01:04:00.737" Title="Print bulging and curling on the edges" Tags="|print-quality|creality-ender-5|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="17980" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17953" CreationDate="2021-08-26T08:32:48.103" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I got the answer now, it has to do with the resolution settings in the lithophane software I was using.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had to set minimum resolution of the lithophane to 0.4 or 0.8 (I'm using a 0.4 mm nozzle).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;UPDATE&lt;/strong&gt;: sorry. The problem still persists. unable to get rid of the white patches.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18559" LastEditorUserId="18559" LastEditDate="2021-09-24T12:35:06.210" LastActivityDate="2021-09-24T12:35:06.210" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="17981" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17952" CreationDate="2021-08-26T13:20:49.903" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you only have a 2D photo then as others have already said its not really possible.  However if you have the action figure itself you could try a technique called Photogrammetry where you use your phone to take multiple images of the object and then use software to build up a model. Search youtube for guides on Photogrammetry or 3D scanning with your phone. I've never done it but certainly something I'd like to try!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30919" LastActivityDate="2021-08-26T13:20:49.903" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="17982" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-08-26T22:06:02.550" Score="2" ViewCount="256" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have the FlashForge Dreamer NX which prints with good quality on small models. However, when the model is taller than 2 cm or 2.5 cm (around 0.8 or 1 inch), it really loses quality.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here there is a picture so you can understand what I mean. Which setting do I have to change? Have a look the the base is very acceptable, but then, the printing is not acceptable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/c5gTf.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Printed model losing quality the higher up it is printed&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/c5gTf.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Printed model losing quality the higher up it is printed&quot; title=&quot;Printed model losing quality the higher up it is printed&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm using FlashPrint 5, but I can switch to any other app if it is needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;UPDATE&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm using PLA 1.75. Here are my settings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YVjEL.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YVjEL.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mmYy4.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mmYy4.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9ptVP.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9ptVP.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/b1T6J.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/b1T6J.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Kq4zf.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Kq4zf.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3vgya.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3vgya.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5V4ZK.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5V4ZK.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AmB3T.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AmB3T.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lJUpe.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lJUpe.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RcWm9.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RcWm9.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Z2lVV.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Z2lVV.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EXTue.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EXTue.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/J16mV.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/J16mV.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sd9bA.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sd9bA.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sK0GL.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sK0GL.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/g6jC6.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/g6jC6.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/b7liI.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/b7liI.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9830" LastEditorUserId="9830" LastEditDate="2021-08-27T17:52:58.110" LastActivityDate="2021-08-27T17:52:58.110" Title="Low quality printing on tall 3D models" Tags="|3d-models|flashprint|flashforge-dreamer|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="17983" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17982" CreationDate="2021-08-26T23:35:07.317" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;That looks horribly familiar; I call it meshing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's underextrusion, which can be caused by lots of things.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I cleaned, then replaced the hot end, Bowden tube, and both couplers trying to solve the problem, but then the Z axis was binding.  Tried a couple things for that, what seems to have worked was loosening a couple of screws flanking the Z screw.  Prints are still coming out a little short, so I think I'll have to shim the Z screw brace.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30746" LastActivityDate="2021-08-26T23:35:07.317" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="17984" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7813" CreationDate="2021-08-27T02:20:35.317" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had the same problem on an Ender 3. Totally bewildering, because G-code commands &lt;code&gt;G0&lt;/code&gt; &amp;amp; &lt;code&gt;G1&lt;/code&gt; moved Z as expected, as did Pronterface commands, but Z did not advance during printing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It turned out to be binding in the Z-axis lead screw caused by installing a BondTech style extruder. Previously, it had caused no problems but reinstallation saw it interfering with the screw. A quick workout on the Dremel created sufficient clearance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The clear conclusion is that during printing power to the Z-motor decreases for whatever reason.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check your machine's alignment. The Z screw should turn easily by hand, the nylon wheels of the X gantry the same. The bracket mounting the extruder and lead screw is well known to be non-square. Check by releasing the lead screw from motor coupling and seeing where its 'natural' position is vs the coupling. If it won't fall close to the coupling naturally that could be the cause.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then RTFM or punish yourself with 1000 YouTube instructionals.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28867" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-08-27T02:25:21.713" LastActivityDate="2021-08-27T02:25:21.713" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="17985" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17982" CreationDate="2021-08-27T06:14:36.417" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The cause of the meshing is under-extrusion. When under-extrusion happens, several problems can cause this. E.g. heat creep (probably not the issue here because heat creep is usually not recoverable, but not unimaginable since this is an enclosed printer, you could try printing at a lower temperature and look into less aggressive retraction settings), or an extrusion problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since this is an intermittent, recurring defect, this could typically be a result of spool entanglement or any other defect in the extrusion path. Once the entanglement or friction on the spool has resolved itself, the print continues as if nothing happened.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should print again and look at what happens. Also pay attention to the extruder, it may be skipping steps or hasn't got enough force to push the filament through.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check the extrusion of filament also by disconnecting the extruder and manually feeding the filament through a hot nozzle. It should be easy to push the filament through the nozzle at temperature. If not, try cleaning the nozzle doing a cold/atomic pull (feed filament hot, cut the power to the hotend, wait until the temperature drops considerably and suddenly pull out the filament, preferably with nylon or cleaning filament or any other high temperature filament).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="30933" LastEditDate="2021-08-27T14:07:08.567" LastActivityDate="2021-08-27T14:07:08.567" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="17986" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17979" CreationDate="2021-08-27T09:35:06.917" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;This mostly happens if the belt has very little tension, this will be the issue 90%, if not please comment below, I'll give you other solutions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30871" LastActivityDate="2021-08-27T09:35:06.917" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="17987" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11562" CreationDate="2021-08-27T09:52:41.340" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I ultimately concluded that the material isn't great. I printed this part with multiple other PLAs and never observed any problem. The Polyalchemy PLA looks great, but for any part that has some sort of mechanical constraint, it behaves poorly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14188" LastActivityDate="2021-08-27T09:52:41.340" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="17988" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-08-27T21:55:58.597" Score="1" ViewCount="149" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I started using ABS yesterday, I have done multiple prints and the quality was amazing to start with, but now I'm getting small protrusions out of the layers. I use the FlashPrint fine settings for ABS.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I am also having issues with the raft. The first layer doesn’t actually get put down and the ABS is trying to be forced into the nozzle and it makes a hell of a sound, but the second layer goes down quite easily. Now I have recalibrated the bed multiple times and the 0.1 mm change in the nozzle height during the calibration causes it to go from one extreme to the other as it spews out in an inconsistent thickness causing the nozzle to then hit the 2nd layer as it prints the next. I'm guessing the slight bumps in the raft may cause a drop in quality.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are no issues with adhesion. It sticks very well annoyingly.&#xA;And there are no issues with peeling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any tips?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sorry for the long read, not good at explaining.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30941" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-08-27T22:50:45.793" LastActivityDate="2021-08-27T22:50:45.793" Title="Adventure 3 ABS problems with raft and quality" Tags="|print-quality|abs|flashforge|flashforge-adventurer-3|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="17989" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-08-28T15:45:03.673" Score="3" ViewCount="117" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been Resin printing for a while, but was considering getting an affordable FDM printer for large simpler models, and for when the mess of a resin printer is just too much of a pain to be bothered with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was considering buying the Elego Neptune 2 FDM printer, then I saw that for about $60 more I could get a version with two extruders.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gyOMu.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gyOMu.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other than the obvious printing in two colors, is what can I do with a dual extruder that I can't do with a single one (Regardless of whether it's cost effective). Anything practical, anything cooler?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="29097" LastActivityDate="2021-08-28T23:40:34.767" Title="Advantages dual extruders FDM printer over a single extruder printer?" Tags="|desktop-printer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="17990" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17989" CreationDate="2021-08-28T16:12:05.173" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;As an owner of a dual extruder printer, an independent dual extruder machine (IDEX), I can shed a bit of light on the topic. One of the better features of an IDEX but not necessarily capable of the printer you've selected is duplication and mirroring. By using both extruders simultaneously, print time for &amp;quot;production&amp;quot; quantities is halved. As noted, this is not possible for the selected printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That leaves wash-away support as the other feature besides two colors. Instead of printing support material as with a single extruder printer, the second feed is available to use PVA, which dissolves in warm water. You can have models with internal supported cavities that would be nearly impossible to remove in single material prints, but need only to be placed in water and agitated to provide a cleared model.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using PVA support material also eliminates the marks on a model from support structures, reducing post processing labor. My experience with PVA is that it's challenging to print, requiring tuning the print parameters. It also tends to carbonize in the nozzle if temperatures are a bit high, but that again follows the tuning aspect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As referenced in the comments, a dual extruder machine can also create parts with interlocked material. I have seen, for example, wheels constructed with a PLA hub and rim and TPU for the tread. I've not created such an item (yet) and overlooked that option. Typically, you'd want to combine materials with similar temperature requirements, but with certain constructs, the mechanical components can accommodate some disparity. Thanks to R.. GitHub STOP HELPING ICE for the reminder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastEditorUserId="854" LastEditDate="2021-08-28T23:40:34.767" LastActivityDate="2021-08-28T23:40:34.767" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="17991" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16085" CreationDate="2021-08-28T23:37:47.700" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Had exact!y the same problem. Belts were slipping. X belt slips just a touch and the layers move left, then if it slips the other way, its back to normal&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30952" LastActivityDate="2021-08-28T23:37:47.700" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="17992" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11559" CreationDate="2021-08-28T23:43:23.300" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The bumps on the owl could also be your seam if it’s not overextrusion. I used to have that problem on a ton of my prints until I set the seam to sharpest corner or user defined. You can go to the Teaching Tech website to get some tips on how to fix some common problems or calibrate your printer. Good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30837" LastActivityDate="2021-08-28T23:43:23.300" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="17993" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-08-28T23:55:55.737" Score="2" ViewCount="1358" Body="&lt;p&gt;I’ve been having problems with my old fan shroud that I printed and when I went to install the new one the little screws that hold it in fell in the carpet which pretty much makes them lost forever. What is the diameter and length of those? I’ve checked a few Reddit posts but I’ve found tons of different answers like M3, M2, M1.8, etc. so I’m not so sure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ylWKX.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Ender 5 part cooling fan&quot; title=&quot;Ender 5 part cooling fan&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30837" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-08-30T01:18:04.380" LastActivityDate="2021-08-31T13:30:31.300" Title="Ender 5 radial fan (part cooling fan) screw size" Tags="|creality-ender-5|print-fan|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="17995" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-08-29T16:44:52.490" Score="9" ViewCount="258" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an FDM printer, I printed ABS for years.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since SLA printers became really cheap lately and are able to print finer details, are there resins out there as strong as ABS/PLA?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30957" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-08-29T16:51:45.783" LastActivityDate="2022-02-05T10:40:19.733" Title="Can SLA printers produce strong engineered parts?" Tags="|resin|sla|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="17996" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17997" CreationDate="2021-08-30T15:03:29.150" Score="1" ViewCount="113" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm still confused on this. The Anycubic Photon Ultra is coming out soon, and it features an internal 720p Projector. The 720p resolution seems like a far cry from a 2k LCD (1280×720 vs. 2560x1440). Despite having 4x as many pixels, many articles are praising DLP as being much higher in resolution / detail. This is very counterintuitive... How can a DLP projector with less pixels produce a more detailed item than a 2k LED exposure?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="199" LastActivityDate="2021-08-30T15:55:18.513" Title="How exactly can a 720P DLP print at a higher resolution than a 2k LCD?" Tags="|sla|dlp|lcd-screen|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="17997" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17996" CreationDate="2021-08-30T15:55:18.513" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;How can a digital camera produce images several times the resolution of the sensor?  They &lt;em&gt;move the sensor&lt;/em&gt; and overlay multiple exposures.  Optically or physically moving the DLP chip or its projected image can give a combined &amp;quot;image&amp;quot; from multiple scans anywhere from 2x to several times the linear resolution of the DLP itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Such a print might be slower than an LCD, because of multiple exposures for each layer, but it might also be faster, because the light source can be &lt;em&gt;far&lt;/em&gt; brighter than can be used with an LCD without damaging the liquid crystals themselvs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28508" LastActivityDate="2021-08-30T15:55:18.513" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="17998" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-08-30T19:12:44.277" Score="0" ViewCount="65" Body="&lt;p&gt;Posted here because I couldn't find a 2D printing or printing category.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a printer that can print on ordinary A4 paper without the use of ink/toners/thermal paper or anything you have to keep buying?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30985" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-08-30T21:00:40.457" LastActivityDate="2021-08-30T21:00:40.457" Title="A 2D printer(standard paper printer),that prints forever?" Tags="|printer-building|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="8" ClosedDate="2021-08-30T20:58:45.950" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="17999" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17998" CreationDate="2021-08-30T19:47:28.980" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In theory it could print by scorching the paper. A laser cutting CNC machine can probably be tuned to do this. However, I'm not sure the result would be exactly what you're asked for. Aside from burning, there's little you can do to paper that will make easily visible marks on it that does not require some additional consumable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2021-08-30T19:47:28.980" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18001" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17993" CreationDate="2021-08-31T11:37:19.247" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Considering this printer is a Chinese designed and built printer, the most obvious choice for screws is metric system screws. These are most probably M2 screws; if you look at the screw heads (Allen key screws) the size with respect to the fan (40x40x10 mm =&amp;gt; fan thickness is 10 mm) seem confirm the assumption (head height is 2 mm as seen in the image of the dimensional analysis below, which is typical for &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.engineersedge.com/iso_socket_head_screw.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;M2 Allen bolts&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The length should be easy to calculate if you have a caliper laying around, else you need some ingenuity using a ruler and an object smaller than the diameter of the screw and a maker (to measure the threaded part in the metal cover). Measure the lug thickness of the fan (about 3 mm if you look at the image of the dimensional analysis below), add some length where the screw enters the metal casing (about 2 mm). For the bottom screws you'll need slightly larger screws since the shroud is also attached. Two sets of 2 screws should do the trick, you'll need at least M2x5 and M2x8, but measure before you order. A &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.reddit.com/r/ender3/comments/bem4i0/help_i_need_the_screw_sizes_for_the_cooling_fan/el8r6o3?utm_source=share&amp;amp;utm_medium=web2x&amp;amp;context=3&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;reference for the Ender 3&lt;/a&gt; (which seem to use the same hot end casing) refers to M2x8 and M2x12 screws:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The stock blower fan uses something like M2x8 for the top, and M2x12 for the bottom. The hot-end cooling fan is M3x10, and so are the screws that hold the fan shroud on. The heat-sink screws are M3x14.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Hhkxd.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Hhkxd.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Dimensional analysis based on image:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9j1WG.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9j1WG.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-08-31T13:30:31.300" LastActivityDate="2021-08-31T13:30:31.300" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18002" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17963" CreationDate="2021-08-31T12:42:47.923" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The rook is normally difficult to remove, it's designed this way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Have you tried resetting the height of you build Plate?&#xA;If it makes a grinding sound when doing the first 2 or three layers your build plate might be traveling too low.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also try re-leveling your build plate, e.g. I pushed so hard when I tried to take my rook off that I un-leveled it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="29097" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-09-01T09:12:48.507" LastActivityDate="2021-09-01T09:12:48.507" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18003" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-08-31T14:42:43.860" Score="0" ViewCount="83" Body="&lt;p&gt;I lost the operating system in my CreatorBot 3D Pro II. How do I go about recovering the firmware?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[Further details about how I lost the &amp;quot;operating system&amp;quot; are forthcoming]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31001" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-08-31T15:21:09.867" LastActivityDate="2021-08-31T15:21:09.867" Title="Need firmware for CreatorBot 3d Pro II?" Tags="|firmware|software|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18004" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-08-31T22:56:17.570" Score="3" ViewCount="494" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've heard a bit about folks using air compressors with tubing to the toolhead and outlet openings there as part cooling. One example is the &lt;a href=&quot;https://the-makerhive.myshopify.com/products/berd-air-max&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Berd Air&lt;/a&gt;, but from the information I can gather, it works with rather low pressures where the expansion of the compressed air is unlikely to get the air significantly below ambient temperature, so it's basically equivalent to a low-end fan. Indeed, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=65FVQ1jArME&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this video&lt;/a&gt; comparing such a system against the HevACS found it rather ineffective.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If one wants to harness the cooling of compressed air to hit the part with air significantly below ambient temperature, what is the relationship between pressure needed and temperature drop? I assume one can work it out pretty closely with ideal gas law, but I don't understand how to figure in both the change in volume and pressure when the air exits the high pressure part of the system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-09-01T09:04:56.303" LastActivityDate="2021-09-07T12:46:05.303" Title="Calculating suitable pressure for compressed-air-based cooling" Tags="|cooling|temperature|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18005" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17995" CreationDate="2021-09-01T09:34:05.927" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm an owner of both an FDM printer and a resin one:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've long searched a resin capable of printing durable objects even in tiny details but with poor luck.  I've tried ABS-Like resins, and they provide a slightly better resistance than regular resin but do not expect great improvements; I've tryed the siraya tech Blue V2 that is for sure much more durable but eventually would fail on the smaller details...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the end i think I'll try the flexible resins like the Liquicreate flexible X or the Siraya tech Tenacious because those (similarly to TPU in FDM) can better absorb energy from impacts and having a smaller young's modulus can help when under load.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31010" LastActivityDate="2021-09-01T09:34:05.927" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18006" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10238" CreationDate="2021-09-01T15:48:07.083" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The best is &lt;a href=&quot;https://grid.space/kiri/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Kiri Moto&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I use CNC and the stack idea is very comfortable.&#xA;Laser and FDM, SLA are available as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31017" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-09-01T15:52:38.963" LastActivityDate="2021-09-01T15:52:38.963" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18007" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14804" CreationDate="2021-09-02T09:33:20.203" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my experience, when I had the same issue happening it was because my first layers exposure time what too short.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was experimenting with bottom exposure time (in order to reduce the elephant foot) and sometimes, with very low exposure's time, I had failed prints that didn't even adhere to the print plate and remained stuck to the FEP (exactly as it happened to you).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Try increasing the bottom exposure time and check the exposure times your resin's manufacturer is providing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31010" LastEditorUserId="31010" LastEditDate="2021-09-02T10:16:34.017" LastActivityDate="2021-09-02T10:16:34.017" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18009" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-09-03T14:11:34.713" Score="2" ViewCount="248" Body="&lt;p&gt;My Ender 3 started to skip steps on the extruder, therefore no more filament comes through the nozzle anymore.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I push the filament myself through the extruder, it works somewhat flawlessly. It's almost like the stepper motor doesn't have enough strength to push the filament through the tube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I already tried to:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Replace the extruder with an all-metal one&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Replace the PTFE tube with a better one from Capricorn with the appropriate fittings&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ramp up the temperature from 190 °C to 220 °C&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;I'm printing with PLA, E-steps are around 95 and the speed is set to 50 mm/s.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31032" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-09-05T04:47:34.643" LastActivityDate="2021-09-05T16:10:10.390" Title="Extruder skips steps, when filament is manually pushed through the extruder it works somewhat &quot;flawlessly&quot;" Tags="|creality-ender-3|fdm|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18010" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-09-03T23:54:45.627" Score="2" ViewCount="77" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've had an Ender 5 for a while now and it worked phenomenally but recently I installed a BigTreeTech SKR E3 mini and I had to update the firmware as well which came with some problems I don't know how to fix.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whenever I start a print, it'll home fine but then move the nozzle up way too much (about 10 mm) off the build plate. In a recent post, I found out restoring factory defaults fixes it temporarily but I have to do that on every print and I really need to find a change that will permanently fix it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm currently running Marlin 2.0x and my start G-code is listed in the other post (&lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/17951/ender-5-wont-lift-the-z-axis-before-printing&quot;&gt;Ender 5 won&amp;#39;t lift the Z-Axis before printing&lt;/a&gt;). Does anybody have any idea how I can fix this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30837" LastEditorUserId="30837" LastEditDate="2021-09-04T00:28:38.923" LastActivityDate="2021-10-04T04:06:55.607" Title="Ender 5 start problems" Tags="|creality-ender-5|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18011" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18010" CreationDate="2021-09-04T03:29:45.927" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I ended up changing the firmware from Marlin 2.0x in the BigTreeTech GitHub to the Marlin bugfix-2.0x in the Marlin GitHub.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also removed my Ender 5 from my Cura profile and added it again so it would reset any G-code I potentially messed up while tinkering. So far it is printing great.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30837" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-09-04T03:54:54.683" LastActivityDate="2021-09-04T03:54:54.683" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18012" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17995" CreationDate="2021-09-04T14:45:59.647" Score="3" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Not inherently&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;SLA prints are usually very glasslike in their internal structure and thus are often quite brittle: They tend to break with a very distinct, sharp failure mode. Their compression strength is often high but their tensile strength is limited, and their resistance to side loads is low.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Due to the printing method solidifying the resin layer by layer, there is an inherent stress pattern, resulting in the items having a much lower strength than monolithic casted resins that cured in shape.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Yes, as an intermediate step&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, their print resolution makes them an excellent solution to create a mold which then can be used to create the actual part. Due to the thermal properties, one can't &lt;em&gt;melt&lt;/em&gt; SLA prints, making lost-model investment casting not available.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Greensand casting isn't available for most resin or plastic materials. However, if the part is removable from the sand shells, it is a method that could make metal copies of your SLA printed masters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As an alternative, rotary casting might be possible if the part can be removed from halves. Also, such prints are perfectly suited to making high detail silicone molds with limited undercuts, into which high durable liquid plastics (PVC) or 2-component casting resins can be cast for curing. In contrast to SLA resins, these cure into a monolithic product, which then is often much more durable to side loads.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2022-02-05T10:40:19.733" LastActivityDate="2022-02-05T10:40:19.733" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18013" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-09-05T11:34:51.047" Score="3" ViewCount="85" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm currently using Blender to make models to print on a Resin printer, and Chitubox to hollow the models out. I'm finding that Chitubox is unsatisfactory and leaves lots of internal islands.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can anybody recomend any alternative software that has a hollowing feature. Preferably a free one?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="29097" LastActivityDate="2021-09-05T11:55:50.197" Title="Software for hollowing out models for printing on a resin printer" Tags="|software|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18014" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18013" CreationDate="2021-09-05T11:55:50.197" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Consider to check out Lychee Slicer. It has a free version which generates a 30 second advertisement prior to slicing, but the features of the software are implemented quite well and intuitive. I've purchased a limited subscription and haven't found the premium features to be particularly desirable, but not having the advert is almost worth the cost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've not used Prusa Slicer, but it is also a free program and can be configured for MSLA as well as FFF printers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastActivityDate="2021-09-05T11:55:50.197" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18015" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-09-05T12:50:24.553" Score="3" ViewCount="1226" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 3D printer with MKS Robin mainboard + TMC2209.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do I add a piece of code to Marlin, for example, to make a physical button to start preheating, etc. I would like to use the existing mainboard, I don't want to use OctoPrint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have basic knowledge of Arduino programming. I could easily write the software to run the function on a button press but I cannot find how to integrate it into Marlin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31047" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-09-05T13:07:09.780" LastActivityDate="2021-09-06T04:56:42.507" Title="How to add custom physical buttons to a 3D printer in Marlin software" Tags="|marlin|software|mks|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18017" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18009" CreationDate="2021-09-05T16:02:01.410" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;So, this might not help everyone, but I fixed the problem by increasing the tension on the spring in the extruder and by changing out the stepper motor (I used the one that came with the new all-metal extruder) to a new more powerful one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, all in all, my problem was a combination of those two things.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31032" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-09-05T16:10:10.390" LastActivityDate="2021-09-05T16:10:10.390" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18019" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18015" CreationDate="2021-09-05T17:38:57.083" Score="1" Body="&lt;h3&gt;&lt;code&gt;ultralcd.cpp&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maybe, just &lt;em&gt;maybe&lt;/em&gt;, this &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/issues/10394#issuecomment-381153626&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;post&lt;/a&gt; from &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/issues/10394&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;how to add a physical button to extruder motor control? #10394&lt;/a&gt; could help (the emphasis is mine):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;rather than directly work on stepper.cpp, &lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;I would rather suggest to take a look at the LCD control part&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt;, and integrate an emulation of the prepare/move/Z-axis code. As for accessible pins, perhaps use any unused endstop ones ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This would make sense, as it is similar to the location (i.e. file(s)) that required changing for 0scar's question &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/q/6778/4762&quot;&gt;Can G-code scripts be run automatically on inserting an SD card when using Marlin Firmware?&lt;/a&gt;. The file in that case was &lt;code&gt;ultralcd.cpp&lt;/code&gt; (see my &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/6801/4762&quot;&gt;answer&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, &lt;code&gt;ultralcd.cpp&lt;/code&gt; seems to have been either removed, moved or renamed to &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/blob/2.0.x/Marlin/src/lcd/dogm/ultralcd_st7920_u8glib_rrd_AVR.cpp&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;code&gt;ultralcd_st7920_u8glib_rrd_AVR.cpp&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/a&gt;. It doesn't look hopeful. Previously it was in a 3rd part bugfix, see &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/10783/4762&quot;&gt;this answer&lt;/a&gt;, and the link of &lt;em&gt;that&lt;/em&gt; &lt;code&gt;ultralcd.cpp&lt;/code&gt; is now dead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Keypads code&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively, this &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/issues/10394#issuecomment-468987287&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;post&lt;/a&gt; helpfully suggests:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is not a feature we would add. But it's possible to do movement with buttons by hooking into the LCD code and following the technique currently used for the KEYPADs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, that would seem to be a promising place to start. I'm not (currently) sure which file(s) that is though. It might be the code that handles the RepRapWorld keypad (see below).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;RepRapWorld keypad&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This could also be useful, the RepRapWorld &lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/wiki/Keypad&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Keypad&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hook it up to your RAMPS AUX-2 port. Configure the firmware to use the keypad. The keypad is fully supported in Marlin Firmware.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could emulate (i.e. reverse engineer) this piece of simple hardware (the most complex IC on it is just a shift register) and use the already built in code.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;FWIW, a similar sounding (9 button) keypad is referenced here, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.reddit.com/r/Reprap/comments/g0z940/adding_custom_keypad_marlin/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Adding custom keypad, marlin&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, upon further reading, it is unclear whether the RepRapWorld keypad is still supported, see &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/issues/1142&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Feature request: add suppport for reprapworld keypad #1142&lt;/a&gt;. Apparently RepRapWorld didn't (6 years ago) support it nor supply the source and expected the Marlin coders to support it for free.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Other references and links&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Nevertheless, the following &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/issues/10394#issuecomment-465536635&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;post&lt;/a&gt; also suggests other sources of information that could be of use:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For best results getting help with configuration and troubleshooting,&#xA;please use the following resources:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;RepRap.org &lt;a href=&quot;http://forums.reprap.org/list.php?415&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Marlin Forum&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://discuss.toms3d.org/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Tom's 3D Forums&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Facebook Group &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.facebook.com/groups/1049718498464482/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&amp;quot;Marlin Firmware&amp;quot;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Facebook Group &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.facebook.com/groups/3Dtechtalk/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&amp;quot;Marlin Firmware for 3D Printers&amp;quot;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=marlin%20configuration&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Marlin Configuration&lt;/a&gt; on YouTube&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Marlin Discord server. Join link: &lt;a href=&quot;https://discord.gg/n5NJ59y&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://discord.gg/n5NJ59y&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After seeking help from the community, if the consensus points to to a&#xA;bug in Marlin, then you should post a bug report.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It should be noted that, as a rule, the Marlin people prefer potential issues to be discussed on the Firmware Forum &lt;strong&gt;first&lt;/strong&gt;, &lt;em&gt;before&lt;/em&gt; any bug report or feature request is submitted to Github. This is to stop their Github issues page for getting too cluttered.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also note that &lt;em&gt;Tom's 3D Forums&lt;/em&gt; are now dead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See also &lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?146,181251&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Marlin/ LCD-Keypad Code Mod&lt;/a&gt;, although the thread seems to consist mostly of posts bemoaning software maintenance and life-cycles, and then sort of loses steam and dies at the end. However, this &lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?146,181251,269518#msg-269518&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;post&lt;/a&gt; mentions &lt;code&gt;uiconfing.h&lt;/code&gt; or &lt;code&gt;ui.h&lt;/code&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4762" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2021-09-06T04:56:42.507" LastActivityDate="2021-09-06T04:56:42.507" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18022" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-09-06T09:15:46.073" Score="2" ViewCount="430" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am building my CoreXY 3D printer with 350x350 mm heated bed at about 4 mm thickness. I just found out that borosilicate glass is unavailable at the local glazier. He offered tempered or ceramic glass instead. Which one should I go for? I read that both are a more expensive option to borosilicate glass, but I worry about the temperature stability, warping of the glass (in case of the tempered one), and parts (not) sticking to it. Any experience is appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PS. The ceramic glass of this size would cost me about 45 USD. The glazier did not tell me the price of the tempered option, but I reckon it will be around 30 USD, which is much more acceptable if it does the same job.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16997" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-09-06T14:11:10.650" LastActivityDate="2021-11-07T19:07:25.633" Title="Which glass for heated bed" Tags="|heated-bed|glass-bed|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18023" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17935" CreationDate="2021-09-06T09:37:52.247" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an Ender 3 pro and BLTouch and the following procedure works for me, I'll post it because it should be quite the same for all the Creality printers:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;First of all install &lt;strong&gt;Pronterface&lt;/strong&gt; (from the PrintRun software suite), a program that let you interact with the printer from the PC.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Find a USB to mini-USB cable (the port on your printer should be a mini-USB) and connect the PC with the printer&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Choose the right COM port between the PC and the printer (you can find the correct one opening the &amp;quot;device manager&amp;quot; on Windows and searching for &amp;quot;COM PORTS&amp;quot;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Then you can connect the printer with the PC and start to interact with it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;From the command line I send the following:&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;G28; (AUTO HOME)&#xA;G0 Z0; (Z AXIS move to ZERO)&#xA;M211 S0; (DISABLES ENDSTOPS)&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Then you raise/lower the nozzle from the bed using the &amp;quot;buttons&amp;quot; on the left part of Pronterface, until you find the perfect height (use the piece of paper method). Usually I just calibrate the height in the middle of the bed and that's fair enough if you have leveled the complete bed manually.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;When you have found the perfect height for the Z axis, input the following lines:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;M114; (GET COORDINATES)&#xA;M851 Z[ insert z coordinate here -- see end of the answer ]&#xA;M211 S1; (ENABLES ENDSTOPS)&#xA;M500; (SAVE VALUES in MEMORY)&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;After that you should be done. Send again &lt;code&gt;G28&lt;/code&gt; and &lt;code&gt;G0 Z0&lt;/code&gt; to check if the printer head is now at the correct height: repeat the process above if it's not.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you calculate the Z height in the &lt;code&gt;M851&lt;/code&gt; command, bear in mind that you have to do the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;new Z height = old Z height + height corrections done in pronterface&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example: my &lt;em&gt;old Z height was -0.2&lt;/em&gt; , I &lt;em&gt;lowered the nozzle by -0.5 with Pronterface&lt;/em&gt; (to get the nozzle closer to the bed), then my &lt;em&gt;new Z height would be -0.7&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My start G-CODE in Cura is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;G92 E0 ; Reset Extruder&#xA;G28&#xA;G29 ; Home all axes&#xA;G1 Z2.0 F3000 ; Move Z Axis up little to prevent scratching of Heat Bed&#xA;G1 X0.1 Y20 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move to start position&#xA;G1 X0.1 Y200.0 Z0.3 F1500.0 E15 ; Draw the first line&#xA;G1 X0.4 Y200.0 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move to side a little&#xA;G1 X0.4 Y20 Z0.3 F1500.0 E30 ; Draw the second line&#xA;G92 E0 ; Reset Extruder&#xA;G1 Z2.0 F3000 ; Move Z Axis up little to prevent scratching of Heat Bed&#xA;G1 X5 Y20 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move over to prevent blob squish&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31010" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-09-06T10:07:41.267" LastActivityDate="2021-09-06T10:07:41.267" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18024" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18022" CreationDate="2021-09-06T16:24:28.423" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;People choose borosilicate because of its thermal properties.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Between ceramic and tempered, I would suggest tempered glass, it's not good as borosilicate when comes to adapting to rapid temperatures but better than ceramic. The other option I would suggest will be &amp;quot;Aluminium&amp;quot;, which is much better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30871" LastActivityDate="2021-09-06T16:24:28.423" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18025" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-09-06T18:22:24.273" Score="3" ViewCount="647" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm currently looking for my first 3D printer. I may be a stranger to 3D printing but my I'm a tool and die maker by profession, so the DIY and learning curve involved don't scare me in the least.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found via AliExpress this machine - the Anet A8 plus. Main appeal to me right now is that they have local stock since I live in Brazil where choice is highly limited. The thing is, I don't see a lot of stuff about it online, as compared to, say, Creality machines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I would like to know is, is the lack of discussion online a sign that the design is obsolete/irrelevant by now? Or is it still a viable choice in 2021?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31064" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-09-06T22:06:14.273" LastActivityDate="2021-09-06T22:56:39.877" Title="Is the Anet A8 plus still relevant in 2021?" Tags="|anet-a8|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18026" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18025" CreationDate="2021-09-06T22:56:39.877" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;In order to talk about relevance, we need to look into the design. Over the years, printers have moved on from wooden and acrylic frame parts to aluminum frames. The latter are much stiffer and more easy to build and connect other stuff too. The old acrylic Anet A8 had a community rework to the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2263216&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;AM8&lt;/a&gt; which is the aluminium 2040 profile upgrade of the A8 parts; the acrylic parts where prone to break and flexed, hence the vast amount of upgrades for this printer. So, the A8 plus printer has a sturdy frame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, this is a budget printer, but so are the Ender and it's clones. It is way better than the original A8. One of the negative aspects of the Ender type machines is the roller system and the single Z screw driven gantry, you see many topics that relate to the tensioning of the rollers. The Anet A8 plus uses the linear guide rods we know from the well proven Prusa i3 design. This design can also give you problems with e.g. Z-banding when low quality lead screws are used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A weaker aspect of the Anet A8 plus is the hotend/extruder combo. It houses a full size stepper onto the X-Z gantry, adding a lot of weight, there are better solutions for this combo. The hotend itself is fairly simple, e.g. the Ender range has decent hotends, but the default plastic arm of the extruders tend to be a problem looking into some recent questions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All-in-all, yes, the Anet A8 plus could still be considered relevant and will give you decent prints. If it is the best choice is up for debate. It is a question of what you want! Do you pick a printer that is less popular, or one with a huge fan base and modding scene (also spare parts, upgrades, firmware flavors, etc.).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If we look at your background of tool and die making, you may want to build a printer yourself, the Anet A8 plus printer may be a first welcome addition to make your own. E.g. although the Prusa i3 style printers can produce decent prints, all top printers use different kinematics, e.g. CoreXY, H-bot or Ultimaker Cartesian.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;For me, printing started with a 180 Euro Anet A8 which has led me to building my own &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2579666&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;take on the AM8&lt;/a&gt;, a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2254103&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;HyperCube Evolution (CoreXY)&lt;/a&gt; and buying an Ultimaker 3E...&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2021-09-06T22:56:39.877" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18027" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-09-07T02:08:31.523" Score="1" ViewCount="729" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been having issues on my Ender 3 v2 for a while regarding the first layer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As shown in the images, certain sections of the layer are decent while there are almost seemingly periodic points in the layer where it seems to be too low. I have leveled multiple times, checked my extruder settings within my slicer where I adjusted the extrusion multiplier to 105 % as I thought this was an under extrusion issue. Before adjusting the extrusion multiplier, nozzle, and bed temp, the problem was worse so it seemed to have helped a bit but it is still inconsistent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas as to what could be causing this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/W1TsO.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Printed model with thinly printed areas&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/W1TsO.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Printed model with thinly printed areas&quot; title=&quot;Printed model with thinly printed areas&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Xwtmo.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Another printed model with thinly printed areas&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Xwtmo.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Another printed model with thinly printed areas&quot; title=&quot;Another printed model with thinly printed areas&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31070" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-09-07T03:06:24.320" LastActivityDate="2021-09-08T11:45:38.857" Title="First layer inconsistency" Tags="|creality-ender-3|bed-leveling|layer-height|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18028" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18004" CreationDate="2021-09-07T03:28:34.287" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Maybe you're thinking of '&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vortex_tube&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Vortex Cooling&lt;/a&gt;' which uses a tuned vortex tube to create hot and cold airstreams. The Wikipedia example uses 100 SCFM of filtered compressed air at 100 PSI to create a 70 °C temperature differential.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B079RF28PS&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Here's one&lt;/a&gt; on Amazon which is targeted at milling applications. &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B00LAKSM5E&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Here's another&lt;/a&gt;...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1847" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-09-07T03:51:09.623" LastActivityDate="2021-09-07T03:51:09.623" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18029" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-09-07T07:17:56.923" Score="0" ViewCount="167" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm using a Creality Ender 3 V2 with BLTouch and Smith3D Marlin firmware.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yesterday I designed a speaker adapter ring for my car in Autodesk Inventor. I converted the part to OBJ and sliced it in Cura. It was a fairly simple circular-shaped part that would normally not cause any issues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first layers went on great, did not expect it to go bad at all. When I woke up this morning, I found my print bed on the floor, luckily still in one piece, with the part still glued on. The clips holding the bed down flew off, and my BLTouch broke clean off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I checked the part for warping, but it was straight as an arrow. I checked for burn marks, none. I couldn't find the area of impact either, probably because the BLTouch took most of the impact and flexed a bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I checked the Cura slice for weird motions but there didn't seem anything wrong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What could have caused this? The printer was hours into the print when it happened.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only thing I can think of is that Cura somehow incorporated bad G-code causing the Z-axis to move halfway through the print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any input is greatly appreciated. I don't quite trust my printer anymore.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think we can safely assume that the print head moved down on its own. I live alone without any pets. Harry the house mosquito, albeit extremely annoying, is probably incapable of pushing the print bed off. The pushpin wouldn't be remotely strong enough, and the BLTouch mount snapped in half as well, so there was a lot of force applied here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would cosmic rays actually be able to cause this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Nothing was connected via USB. So that leaves 2 and 3. I ran a clean version of Cura, that I always update, so it should be at the latest version available as of September 6th.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As soon as I find the time, I'll swap out the BLTouch or revert back to the stock one until new pushpins arrive. I'll probably try out a fresh slice from Cura and hope for the best I guess.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31075" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-09-09T14:24:51.367" LastActivityDate="2024-01-27T19:08:06.073" Title="Mid print error: Hot end pushed print bed clean of. Part still glued to the bed" Tags="|creality-ender-3|ultimaker-cura|print-failure|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18030" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18029" CreationDate="2021-09-07T10:07:57.673" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Assuming that we know one thing for sure, we can identify 3 possible causes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The print-head moved down&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The BLTouch lowered its pushpin&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Some external factor pushed the bed off&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cosmic_ray#Effect_on_electronics&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Cosmic rays&lt;/a&gt; could have caused a bit to flip&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming you kept your Ender 3 in Marlin flavour, the print head could have moved down in 4 possible ways:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;something connected to USB sent a G-code signal&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the printer inserted a G-code signal (very improbable that a printer sends self-destruct signals)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cura inserted something into the code. Cura plugins sometimes add G-code that might not be visible in the preview. You can also rule this option out by printing from the same file from the same SD card again.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know if the pushpin of the BLTouch is strong enough to break the BLTouch. Does it show any strain from sideways force?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do you have cats? Dogs? Birds? Kids?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If a bit in the RAM of the AVR controller is flipped, it could for example, move the print-head down instead of up. This is very rare, but it does happen occasionally and cause big problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4708" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-09-07T12:23:06.410" LastActivityDate="2021-09-07T12:23:06.410" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18031" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18004" CreationDate="2021-09-07T12:46:05.303" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Firts of, I created a quick simplified simulation in Matlab of cooling from 210°C to bellow 50°C. Here is a plot showing the difference in temperature curves in time. As stated, it is simplified, because I guessed that a printed piece can get from 210 deg to 50 in less than 5 seconds when cooled properly to room temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I used this differential equation:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6XoB5.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6XoB5.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;where &lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;T&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt; is temperature, &lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;t&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt; is time, &lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;T_target&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt; is target temperature (temperature of cooling air), &lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;a&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt; is a constant which I adjusted to meet the above specified criteria (&lt;em&gt;a&lt;/em&gt; = 0.5)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HhmkP.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HhmkP.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you can see, you save about a second of cooling time. You say whether it is enough. In my opinion it is irrelevant for standard printing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is the Matlab source code if you want to try and experiment with it (it might run in GNU Octave as well, but I haven't tried it):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;clear;&#xA;clc;&#xA;&#xA;a = 0.5;&#xA;targetTemp1 = 23;&#xA;targetTemp2 = 0;&#xA;tempLine = 50;&#xA;&#xA;timeSpan = [0, 5];&#xA;x0 = 210;&#xA;&#xA;[t1, y1] = ode45(@odeFcn, timeSpan, x0, 0, a, targetTemp1);&#xA;[t2, y2] = ode45(@odeFcn, timeSpan, x0, 0, a, targetTemp2);&#xA;&#xA;figure(&amp;quot;Position&amp;quot;, [360, 1220, 1200, 800]);&#xA;hold on;&#xA;plot(t1, y1);&#xA;plot(t2, y2);&#xA;plot([timeSpan(1), timeSpan(end)], [tempLine, tempLine], &amp;quot;Color&amp;quot;, &amp;quot;black&amp;quot;, &amp;quot;LineWidth&amp;quot;, 2);&#xA;&#xA;grid on;&#xA;legend(&amp;quot;Taget temperature: &amp;quot; + targetTemp1, &amp;quot;Taget temperature: &amp;quot; + targetTemp2);&#xA;xlabel(&amp;quot;t[s]&amp;quot;);&#xA;ylabel(&amp;quot;T[\circC]&amp;quot;);&#xA;&#xA;function y = odeFcn(t, x, a, target)&#xA;    y = -a * (x - target);&#xA;end&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That being said, here is how I calculated the needed pressure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Constants:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sWdIi.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sWdIi.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;c&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt; is specific heat capacity of air, &lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;κ&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt; is Poisson constant for air, &lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;ρ&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt; is density od air, &lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;V_2&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt; is volume at atmospheric pressure, I estimated this value, &lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Δt&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt; is temperature difference assuming the pressurized air is at room temperature and need to be cooled down to 0 degrees&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The needed energy too cool the air by &lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;delta t&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt; is given by this formula:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6wlI6.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6wlI6.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And assuming this is adiabatic process with ideal gass, we can use this equation to find &lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;p1&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/L11zX.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/L11zX.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;assuming &lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;V1&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt; is given by:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Y3J8R.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Y3J8R.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I calculated the needed work &lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;W&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt; is 0.3 J and the pressure &lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;p1&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt; is 148 kPa. To me this seems fairly low, I might have made a mistake somewhere or a wrong assumption. However, I would always suggest experimenting and finding an answer empirically, because there are too many unforseen variables like: air humidity, parts that would absorb/release the heat, direction and speed of the airflow, crossectional area of the outlet and so on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[Edit] You can find the equations on wikipedia &lt;a href=&quot;https://cs.wikipedia.org/wiki/Adiabatick%C3%BD_d%C4%9Bj&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;https://cs.wikipedia.org/wiki/M%C4%9Brn%C3%A1_tepeln%C3%A1_kapacita&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;. Sadly, it is in Czech, because the English variant does not have the equations in this format.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16997" LastActivityDate="2021-09-07T12:46:05.303" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18032" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-09-07T17:17:49.050" Score="2" ViewCount="347" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've recently set up my Snapmaker 2.0 A350 again after moving apartments. I started by calibrating it. There was a couple of issues I'm familiar with that I could solve but one I don't know what to do about.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The corners of my CaliCat are wavy, the best I can describe them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aj8Ot.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Printed model of CaliCat with wavy sections throughout the print&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aj8Ot.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Printed model of CaliCat with wavy sections throughout the print&quot; title=&quot;Printed model of CaliCat with wavy sections throughout the print&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm using Cura as my slicer and the Snapmaker's filament. I know they're not good but I got it with the printer and want to finish it on less important jobs. My thermometer for the nozzle might be wrong, I was getting &amp;quot;elephant's foot&amp;quot; and drags marks in the bottom layer until I lowered the temperature to 180 °C. If I lower it to 175-170 °C, the prints fail. The rest of the settings are on default from Generic PLA and I'm using the Snapmaker profile that Cura came with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31080" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-09-07T18:15:25.927" LastActivityDate="2022-02-05T14:00:35.043" Title="Wavy corners when printing calibration cat" Tags="|print-quality|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18033" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-09-07T19:21:30.357" Score="1" ViewCount="357" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm pretty stumped on this one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Investigating an issue I was having with an OctoPrint plugin, I've come to realize my &lt;code&gt;M503&lt;/code&gt; command is reporting duplicate and empty values. This is not an issue with the plugin, but an issue with the native &lt;code&gt;M503&lt;/code&gt; output.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Here's what I'm getting:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;echo:  G21    ; Units in mm (mm)&#xA;echo:  M149 C ; Units in Celsius&#xA;&#xA;echo:; Filament settings: Disabled&#xA;echo:  M200 S0 D1.75&#xA;&#xA;echo:; Steps per unit:&#xA;echo: M92 X80.00 Y80.00 Z400.00 E93.00&#xA;&#xA;echo:; Maximum feedrates (units/s):&#xA;echo:  M203 X200.00 Y200.00 Z5.00 E Y1000.00 Z100.00 E5000.00&#xA;&#xA;echo:; Acceleration (units/s2): P&amp;lt;print_accel&amp;gt; R&amp;lt;retract_accel&amp;gt; T&amp;lt;travel_accel&amp;gt;&#xA;echo:  M204 P500.00 R500.00 T500.00&#xA;&#xA;echo:; Advanced: B&amp;lt;min_segment_time_us&amp;gt; S&amp;lt;min_feedrate&amp;gt; T&amp;lt;min_travel_feedrate&amp;gt; J&amp;lt;junc_dev&amp;gt;&#xA;echo:  M205 B20000.00 S0.00 T0.00 J0.08&#xA;&#xA;echo:; Home offset:&#xA;echo:  M206 X0.00 Y0.00 Z0.00&#xA;&#xA;echo:; Material heatup parameters:&#xA;echo:  M145 S0 H185.00 B45.00 F255&#xA;echo:  M145 S1 H240.00 B110.00 F255&#xA;&#xA;echo:; PID settings:&#xA;echo:  M301 P21.73 I1.54 D76.55&#xA;&#xA;; Controller Fan&#xA;echo:  M710 S255 I0 A1 D60 ; (100% 0%)&#xA;&#xA;echo:; Stepper driver current:&#xA;echo:  M906 X580 Y580 Z580&#xA;echo:  M906 T0 E650&#xA;&#xA;echo:; Driver stepping mode:&#xA;echo:  M569 S1 X Y Z&#xA;echo:  M569 S1 T0 E&#xA;&#xA;echo:; Linear Advance:&#xA;echo:  M900 K0.00&#xA;&#xA;echo:; Filament load/unload lengths:&#xA;echo:  M603 L350.00 U400.00&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;This is the problem:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;echo:; Maximum feedrates (units/s):&#xA;echo:  M203 X200.00 Y200.00 Z5.00 E Y1000.00 Z100.00 E5000.00&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why would my feedrate be reporting an empty &amp;quot;E&amp;quot;, an additional &amp;quot;E5000&amp;quot; and then &lt;em&gt;two of each&lt;/em&gt; &amp;quot;X&amp;quot; and &amp;quot;Z&amp;quot; arguments as well? At first, I thought maybe it was a duplicate Z-Y-Z-E followed by another.. but it's followed by Y-Z-E only.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;My printer specs:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ender-3 Pro&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;SKR Mini 2.0&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Micro Swiss hot end&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Direct drive extruder&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Marlin build is straight from the &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/bigtreetech/BIGTREETECH-SKR-mini-E3/tree/master/firmware/V2.0/Marlin-2.0.8.2.x-SKR-mini-E3-V2.0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;BigTreeTech repo&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you in advance for any help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31081" LastEditorUserId="31081" LastEditDate="2021-09-07T19:56:29.220" LastActivityDate="2021-09-07T19:56:29.220" Title="M503 command is reporting &quot;Maximum feedrates&quot; with duplicate and empty values: M203 X200.00 Y200.00 Z5.00 E Y1000.00 Z100.00 E5000.00" Tags="|creality-ender-3|marlin|g-code|octoprint|skr-mini-e3|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18035" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18027" CreationDate="2021-09-08T11:45:38.857" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's difficult to see your first layer well with this low magnification.  Your 1st layer z-height appears to be too high.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This question isn't directly related to your issue, but may give you some insight: &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11679/wavy-lines-on-1st-layer-only&quot;&gt;Wavy lines on 1st layer only&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your initial z-height is too high, the nozzle will not flatten out part of the first layer extrusion and the extrusion will not stick well to adjacent extrusions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15075" LastActivityDate="2021-09-08T11:45:38.857" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18036" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18032" CreationDate="2021-09-08T12:08:47.570" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's worth measuring your heater-block and bed temperatures to verify that they are actually as far off as you believe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The least expensive, but most difficult way is to use the thermocouple on a multimeter that can measure temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Easier is to use a single point pyrometer for a non-contact measurement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The easiest, but most expensive way to measure the temperatures, is to use a thermal imager that will tell you the highest temperature within the image.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: This is not the final answer, but too much for a comment.  Please do not let this discourage posting a final answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15075" LastEditorUserId="15075" LastEditDate="2021-09-08T13:06:46.580" LastActivityDate="2021-09-08T13:06:46.580" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18037" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18022" CreationDate="2021-09-08T16:17:20.713" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Mirror glass is commonly used. It's flat and cheap. There isn't really a sudden thermal shock to worry about, and if you're going to be printing at temperatures that &lt;em&gt;need&lt;/em&gt; borosilicate glass, you might find the aluminium parts of the bed sagging. Remember to ask for the edges to be smoothed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thinner glass will transmit the heat better - but you might be able to get tempered glass as thin as 1/8&amp;quot; thick (~3.2 mm).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I print with PLA and use 3 mm mirror glass secured with a bulldog clip near-ish to each corner, and Elnett &amp;quot;Normal Strength&amp;quot; hairspray for adhesion (applied holding the glass over the bath to avoid it getting everywhere) - it's easy to clean off under running water. Demounting the parts cleanly is a simple matter of popping it in the fridge for half an hour if they don't come off with a slight nudge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11255" LastEditorUserId="11255" LastEditDate="2021-09-08T16:32:51.720" LastActivityDate="2021-09-08T16:32:51.720" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18040" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-09-09T14:31:58.273" Score="2" ViewCount="155" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Kuka robot that I use to print large objects (output around 18 kg/hour). I am printing recycled polycarbonate pallets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem I am having is that exploding air bubbles are appearing frequently. The extruder has four heaters with temperatures:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;210 °C (first heater)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;230 °C&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;250 °C&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;260 °C (nozzle)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The fan is turned off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas what could cause this problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31095" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-09-09T15:18:55.450" LastActivityDate="2021-09-26T14:22:29.117" Title="Exploding bubbles while printing polycarbonate" Tags="|print-quality|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18042" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16054" CreationDate="2021-09-09T23:55:17.307" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just saw your update so I'm adding a new answer to address it specifically. Your print looks much better, and all the remaining problems are likely caused by Cura's bad default &lt;em&gt;Limit Support Retractions&lt;/em&gt; option. It causes Cura to skip retracting when moving from one support structure to another, producing heavy oozing/stringing there and leaving insufficient material in the hotend for whatever is supposed to be printed next. This will result in underextrusion and other problems. So, turn of off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have any additional weird options like &lt;em&gt;Coasting&lt;/em&gt; or extra unretract after travel, disable them too. These intentionally do the wrong thing trying to compensate for other things being wrong, rather than fixing the core problem. Depending on whether you tuned your retraction to settings like this you'd changed, you might need to re-tune retraction too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2021-09-09T23:55:17.307" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18044" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18040" CreationDate="2021-09-10T02:24:08.510" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some plastics, and PC is quite bad about this, are hygroscopic, and will absorb water if they are not kept in a low humidity environment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Usually the manufacturer of the plastic pellets has a data sheet that specifies a drying process that should be used to condition the pellets before they are melted.  Typically this consists of a baking process with a time/temperature profile, and can be incorporated into the pre-feed before it gets to the melt zone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, if the bake time is too long or your feed too fast, you may have to precondition them separately.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28397" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2021-09-26T14:22:29.117" LastActivityDate="2021-09-26T14:22:29.117" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18045" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-09-10T10:00:56.927" Score="1" ViewCount="3116" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been printing okay for months, but, I had an overnight print failure for the first time; so turned off the printer. Restarted it, thought I would need to level the bed. Normally when I turn on the printer it will go to the X, Y, endstops then center on the bed; it did not do it this time...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And now when I do a bed leveling. Press leveling on the screen. the printer will go to the X and Y stops, the center and the bed will lower and comes up and the BL Touch will drop out, contact the bed and the bed goes back down, the bed comes back up and contacting the BLTouch again, and the bed will go back down. All is good so far. Then the bed comes back up again BUT does not stop and crashes into the print head. I have tried and tried for hours to sort this out but have failed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can anyone help whit this? I have asked on many forums without any success?&#xA;I have not changed anything, and have been printing for 7 plus months without an issue. I even have not changed anything, I have a video of the problem:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/bHKpZTBpTmg?start=0&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31108" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-09-10T10:58:53.087" LastActivityDate="2021-09-10T10:58:53.087" Title="Bed crashing into print head when levelling" Tags="|bed-leveling|creality-ender-5|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18046" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18049" CreationDate="2021-09-10T10:46:54.557" Score="2" ViewCount="5217" Body="&lt;h1&gt;Backstory&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I set up the BLTouch module as explained in the guide that came with it - &lt;strong&gt;that included unplugging the Z axis switch, and replacing it with a pair of wires from the BLTouch module&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I managed to burn the &lt;a href=&quot;https://drive.google.com/file/d/1EASLRH4rlZs4AiR2EwQ1NizWgKa2lbBa/view&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;firmware available from Creality&lt;/a&gt;, however this didn't have an offset for the fact the BLTouch module is offset from the hotend, and I couldn't manually edit the &lt;code&gt;.hex&lt;/code&gt; file to add in offsets.  I tried using the G Code command to update it on the EEPROM, but that didn't work and it always probed off the edge of the bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I then decided to flash new firmware based directly off Marlin 1.1.x, as there are some videos on Youtube about how to do this.  I used the pink USB ISP supplied with the BLTouch to flash the Arduino bootloader to the motherboard, and now I can use the Arduino IDE to program the board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I uploaded my configured Marlin firmware (see below), but it isn't working properly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Problem&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I home the printer, the X and Y stops go to the switches, bump and zero correctly.  However, when the Z axis is homing, the BLTouch probe stays retracted, and it starts heading for home - I forcefully shut down my printer when this happens because I know there's nothing to stop it from crashing into the print head and breaking things.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;How do I configure my firmware to use the BLTouch module as the Z stop probe?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although the probe clicks in and out a few times when I power on the printer, I'm not entirely sure that it is even working - going to the BLTouch menu and choosing &lt;code&gt;Cmd: Deploy&lt;/code&gt; doesn't have an effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the up side, when it goes to the centre to home (due to &lt;code&gt;Z_SAFE_HOMING&lt;/code&gt;), the BLTouch module is over the centre of the build plate instead of the hotend.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Configuration&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can see the Marlin repository I'm trying to use &lt;a href=&quot;https://gitlab.com/marcellothearcane/ender-5-marlin-1.1.x-firmware&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here on Gitlab&lt;/a&gt;, or &lt;a href=&quot;https://gitlab.com/marcellothearcane/ender-5-marlin-1.1.x-firmware/-/compare/acfbdfb817605f58c9bd13b24c2b2149ef5d9e8b...master?from_project_id=29512087&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;a direct link to the diff&lt;/a&gt; between the inital Marlin configuration and my changes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These are some hopefully relevant configuration changes I've made:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;// Configuration.h&#xA;&#xA;//#define USE_XMIN_PLUG&#xA;//#define USE_YMIN_PLUG&#xA;#define USE_ZMIN_PLUG&#xA;#define USE_XMAX_PLUG&#xA;#define USE_YMAX_PLUG&#xA;&#xA;#define BLTOUCH&#xA;&#xA;#define X_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER -44  // X offset: -left  +right  [of the nozzle]&#xA;#define Y_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER -6   // Y offset: -front +behind [the nozzle]&#xA;#define Z_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER 5.7  // Z offset: -below +above  [the nozzle]&#xA;&#xA;#define Z_HOMING_HEIGHT 4&#xA;&#xA;#define Z_SAFE_HOMING&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;// pins_MELZI_CREALITY.h&#xA;&#xA;#define SERVO0_PIN 20 // Wondering if this is correct?&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These settings have been left as default, but they look relevant maybe:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;/**&#xA; * Z_MIN_PROBE_USES_Z_MIN_ENDSTOP_PIN&#xA; *&#xA; * Enable this option for a probe connected to the Z Min endstop pin.&#xA; */&#xA;#define Z_MIN_PROBE_USES_Z_MIN_ENDSTOP_PIN&#xA;&#xA;/**&#xA; * Z_MIN_PROBE_ENDSTOP&#xA; *&#xA; * Enable this option for a probe connected to any pin except Z-Min.&#xA; * (By default Marlin assumes the Z-Max endstop pin.)&#xA; * To use a custom Z Probe pin, set Z_MIN_PROBE_PIN below.&#xA; *&#xA; *  - The simplest option is to use a free endstop connector.&#xA; *  - Use 5V for powered (usually inductive) sensors.&#xA; *&#xA; *  - RAMPS 1.3/1.4 boards may use the 5V, GND, and Aux4-&amp;gt;D32 pin:&#xA; *    - For simple switches connect...&#xA; *      - normally-closed switches to GND and D32.&#xA; *      - normally-open switches to 5V and D32.&#xA; *&#xA; * WARNING: Setting the wrong pin may have unexpected and potentially&#xA; * disastrous consequences. Use with caution and do your homework.&#xA; *&#xA; */&#xA;//#define Z_MIN_PROBE_ENDSTOP&#xA;&#xA;/**&#xA; * Number of servos&#xA; *&#xA; * For some servo-related options NUM_SERVOS will be set automatically.&#xA; * Set this manually if there are extra servos needing manual control.&#xA; * Leave undefined or set to 0 to entirely disable the servo subsystem.&#xA; */&#xA;//#define NUM_SERVOS 3 // Servo index starts with 0 for M280 command&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31110" LastEditorUserId="31110" LastEditDate="2021-09-10T12:29:34.740" LastActivityDate="2021-09-10T13:18:24.190" Title="How to make Ender 5 use BLTouch probe for Z homing?" Tags="|marlin|bltouch|creality-ender-5|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18047" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-09-10T12:08:57.433" Score="2" ViewCount="788" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have Marlin firmware on an Anycubic Vyper 3D printer and I want to use Klipper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My Raspberry PI 3B runs OctoPi and I installed Klipper from Github. Now I want to flash Klipper, but when I select &lt;strong&gt;Raspberry Pi&lt;/strong&gt; for flashing I get an error that flashing on Raspberry is not supported. For the attached Vyper printer I have no knowledge of the MCU to select.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What MCU to select in Klipper for Anycubic Vyper?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kgWkm.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Klipper_make_menuconfig&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kgWkm.png&quot; alt=&quot;Klipper_make_menuconfig&quot; title=&quot;Klipper_make_menuconfig&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31112" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-09-10T13:07:08.553" LastActivityDate="2021-09-14T21:20:00.420" Title="Klipper firmware on OctoPi asks for MCU for flashing" Tags="|raspberry-pi|klipper|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18048" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17963" CreationDate="2021-09-10T12:39:21.787" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You have not done anything wrong!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Usually, each resin type is suitable for a specific VAT floor. For example, for PDMS floor you should use very specific types of resins.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;FEP is known to be very strong and difficult to ruin. But still a couple of things you need to consider:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When the resin cures it does generate a substantial amount of heat, you definitely can decrease it by a better level (less resin) or dimming (slower chemical reaction). Some FEPs could stand 450 °C.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Separation force, it will depend on the area being solidified and how strong the resin stick to your FEP.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How tightened the FEP is also important. You do not want it to be very tight.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5007" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-09-10T13:10:43.120" LastActivityDate="2021-09-10T13:10:43.120" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18049" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18046" CreationDate="2021-09-10T13:18:24.190" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've solved this now.  Here's the problem:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&lt;pre&gt;// pins_MELZI_CREALITY.h&#xA;&lt;p&gt;#define SERVO0_PIN 20 // Wondering if this is correct?&lt;/pre&gt;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Funnily enough, it wasn't correct.  Pin 20 is the &lt;code&gt;Z MIN&lt;/code&gt; pin, as defined in &lt;code&gt;pins_MELZI_CREALITY.h&lt;/code&gt;, and &lt;strong&gt;not&lt;/strong&gt; the servo pin used by the BLTouch module.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At 8:04 of &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/iAz47riSjLQ?t=484&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this youtube video&lt;/a&gt;, he says that that value should be set to 27, &amp;quot;if we're using a pin 27 board or splicing pin&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried it, and the BLTouch module now responds, and homing works!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For anyone else who comes across this problem (it's strangely very hard to find online), add the following code:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#define BLTOUCH&#xA;#if ENABLED(BLTOUCH)&#xA;  #define SERVO0_PIN 27&#xA;  //#define BLTOUCH_DELAY 375   // (ms) Enable and increase if needed&#xA;#endif&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31110" LastActivityDate="2021-09-10T13:18:24.190" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18050" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18047" CreationDate="2021-09-10T14:09:25.253" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The printer controller board (the controller that came with the printer) needs to have the basics for being controlled by Klipper, hence the flashing, you should select the MCU of the 3D printer, that is not your Raspberry PI. Usually it is a Atmega AVR or a 32-bit controller board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It appears the Anycubic Vyper 3D is using a 32-bit Cortex-M3 MCU, but please check what your controller has.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please read &lt;a href=&quot;https://m.all3dp.com/2/klipper-ender-3-v2/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this article&lt;/a&gt; by All3DP, it describes exactly the same as above:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Use your device’s arrow keys and enter button to navigate the pop-up menu, and go to the “Micro-controller section”.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;The Ender 3 V2 uses an STM 32-bit board, so click the “STMicroelectronics STM32” option.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-09-14T21:20:00.420" LastActivityDate="2021-09-14T21:20:00.420" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18051" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-09-10T14:44:26.930" Score="2" ViewCount="967" Body="&lt;p&gt;I left my printer to print a circular object and when I came back I saw it didn't print anything but left this layer of white on the surface. I can't get it off, I've tried washing it and scraping it off with the chisel, nothing works.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7zuyK.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Printer bed with white circular marking&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7zuyK.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Printer bed with white circular marking&quot; title=&quot;Printer bed with white circular marking&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31113" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-09-10T15:02:10.480" LastActivityDate="2021-09-20T13:47:01.207" Title="What is this white layer on my 3D printer?" Tags="|creality-ender-5|build-plate|surface|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18052" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18051" CreationDate="2021-09-10T14:58:41.943" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;My guess is it's damaged print surface from the hot extruder mashing against the print surface.  Your description seems to indicate that it isn't a layer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15075" LastActivityDate="2021-09-10T14:58:41.943" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18053" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7836" CreationDate="2021-09-10T16:42:11.060" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The absolute best way to solve sticking problem is Overture build surface. I could not get anything to stick. Got a free build sheet when I bought some filament from them. What a difference, everything sticks now, just clean with alcohol between uses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31114" LastActivityDate="2021-09-10T16:42:11.060" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18054" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-09-10T18:06:13.913" Score="0" ViewCount="110" Body="&lt;p&gt;I need to turn a prototype into a mold. Conventional metal molds are too expensive.  I have the STEP files of the prototype. Is there anyone here that does that?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31116" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-09-10T18:11:30.417" LastActivityDate="2021-09-10T18:11:30.417" Title="Convert STEP file to mold file" Tags="|molds|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18055" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-09-10T19:06:04.340" Score="1" ViewCount="1148" Body="&lt;p&gt;My Ender 3 has been having intermittent under extrusion issues.  Layers of good density alternate with weak mesh.  When printing multiple objects at once, sometimes one will be almost entirely good, while the piece next to it is all meshy; so it's not even consistent within layers, or between sections of the print bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've cleaned it and replaced everything from the stepper handle to the hot end.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Today I've been trying to calibrate E-steps, and they're all over the place:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Initial tests produced from 19 to 23 mm (should be 100 mm)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I calibrated to an average of those, and then tests ranged 105 to 115 mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I tried a different spool of filament; that one produced 58 and 67 mm.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What can be causing these inconsistent results?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30746" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-09-10T20:58:43.663" LastActivityDate="2021-09-11T00:55:43.573" Title="Inconsistent E-step calibration test results" Tags="|creality-ender-3|calibration|underextrusion|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18056" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18051" CreationDate="2021-09-10T21:44:35.857" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If it actually is residue from the material you were trying to print, pressed against the surface so tightly and so thin that you can't separate it, the best way to remove it is printing a new object on top of it, using the same material, with the bed properly leveled (i.e. not smashing the nozzle into it again) and with the bed and nozzle temperature high. If things go well, it will then come off with the print when you're done after the bed cools. This is because printable thermoplastics tend to stick better to themselves than to the bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2021-09-10T21:44:35.857" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18057" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18055" CreationDate="2021-09-11T00:55:43.573" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Oops.  I had replaced the tension arm, spring, and hob gear before calibrating.  Turns out I attached the gear too low, so it wasn't pushing the filament through.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Adjusted the gear, and calibration tests became consistent.  Printing nicely now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30746" LastActivityDate="2021-09-11T00:55:43.573" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18059" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-09-11T16:22:21.007" Score="1" ViewCount="107" Body="&lt;p&gt;On an Elegoo Saturn resin printer, I'm going to print some background scenery. The models have large flat surfaces and little detail. I will add this later using traditional modelling methods.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to print these out as fast as is safe what is the maximum recommended layer height that I can use?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="29097" LastActivityDate="2021-09-11T16:22:21.007" Title="What are the maximum recommended layer height settings for a large but low detail model on an Elgoo Saturn?" Tags="|layer-height|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18060" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-09-12T04:10:26.437" Score="0" ViewCount="119" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had a print fail a while back and the filament covered the hot end. I attempted to replace the nozzle to fix the no filament issue but it looks like the unit has a cheap Chinese heater block that I have seen mentioned or It's a really old model which is nothing like the current ones with heat sinks. I am hoping to find a replacement heater that will work in place of &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B01M28FU1H&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this hot end&lt;/a&gt;. I suspect from looking at the design and the things I have read that I will likely need a different heater block. It might just connect the heat tube with the nozzle if both are bottomed out which was mentioned as not a good thing. The heat tube/break seems to be the reason I can't properly get the filament out as it is letting it melt too far up since it has the nut against the heater block and no radiator.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B01H6QEPOM&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;This&lt;/a&gt; has a picture of the print head mount. I suspect I have to change that out in order to handle the new styles of print heads.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any suggestions are appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It should be a heat break but does not look like it was implemented that way the first picture shows the unit.  It screws into/through the bottom of the carrier has a fan on it but no proper heatsink.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6033" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-09-13T20:43:26.443" LastActivityDate="2021-09-13T20:55:41.747" Title="Alunar Prusa i3 hot end replacement options" Tags="|hotend|alunar-m508|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18061" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-09-12T11:38:13.010" Score="2" ViewCount="743" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a DIY 3D printer with Marlin firmware. I use an LJ12A3-4-Z/BY sensor for the Z probe. Recently I have had a ridiculous problem with Z homing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In doing &lt;strong&gt;Z homing&lt;/strong&gt;, it senses the bed, goes up, and stops, it doesn't go back to the bed...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In doing &lt;strong&gt;Bed leveling&lt;/strong&gt;, it goes up without sensing the bed and in the next step goes even higher and higher.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I ignore bed leveling, it starts printing in the air. If I still use bed leveling, the Z axis moves in long courses in every layer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It looks like it is saving the wrong Z-axis position as home! These are some related settings that I think of:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#define Z_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER 0.25   // Z offset: -below +above  [the nozzle]&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;// Travel limits (mm) after homing, corresponding to endstop positions.&#xA;#define X_MIN_POS -3&#xA;#define Y_MIN_POS -3&#xA;#define Z_MIN_POS 0&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;// For M851 give a range for adjusting the Z probe offset&#xA;#define Z_PROBE_OFFSET_RANGE_MIN -20&#xA;#define Z_PROBE_OFFSET_RANGE_MAX 20&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13700" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-09-12T20:00:42.907" LastActivityDate="2021-09-12T20:00:42.907" Title="Z homing problem; starts printing in the air" Tags="|diy-3d-printer|bed-leveling|z-axis|z-probe|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18063" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18064" CreationDate="2021-09-13T18:10:11.857" Score="1" ViewCount="226" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just bought &amp;amp; received my first 3D printer and built it and tried my first print on it.&#xA;It is this printer &lt;a href=&quot;https://amzn.to/3k3tKMK&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;ELEGOO Neptune 2S&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I printed the following item &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4934574&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;(chip clip)&lt;/a&gt; as a test.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The top of the item looks exactly correct.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XRu4Q.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XRu4Q.png&quot; alt=&quot;top of chip clip&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, the bottom (where the print started) is slightly &amp;quot;bonded&amp;quot; (still connected).&#xA;If you look closely you can see the outline of the teeth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/f9b9g.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/f9b9g.png&quot; alt=&quot;bottom of chip clip&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can you tell me what might have caused this?&#xA;Am I using an improper material?  (This was test filament that came with printer).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Was the printer not close enough to (or too far from) the bed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there possibly something I should've changed in the settings of the drawing?  I left them the same as they were in the downloaded file.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31150" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-09-13T22:11:07.093" LastActivityDate="2021-09-13T22:11:07.093" Title="Why does my print have extra layer(s) which keep moving parts locked?" Tags="|3d-design|layer-height|elegoo-neptune-2s|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18064" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18063" CreationDate="2021-09-13T18:24:32.997" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You have &amp;quot;elephant foot&amp;quot;.  Look at the left end of the grip section of the clip in your second image -- see how the thickness increases toward the top (which was the bottom, against the build surface, when printing)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a number of causes for this; in your case, it continues for several layers, so the basic solutions (reducing first layer extrusion in slicer settings etc.) won't fix it; you probably have the same issue I do, with the Z axis not moving quite far enough on the first 3-4 layers after the initial.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd suggest you start looking for the solution by printing a calibration cube, and measure how much height you're losing.  You might also want to draw up some simple calibration prints with one, two, three, and four layers to see the actual height those first few layers are getting, vs. what your layer height setting is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This will help confirm the problem.  Solving it might involve several kinds of tuning, but they'll all revolve around making the first few layer moves up from the start closer to their nominal height.  Once layers 2, 3, and 4 are right, once you get a good initial layer, your prints will be significantly improved -- especially print-in-place parts like this one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28508" LastActivityDate="2021-09-13T18:24:32.997" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18065" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18060" CreationDate="2021-09-13T20:55:41.747" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Alunar M508 is very similar to the old Anet A8 3D printer (I'm positive that it is a copy). Note that both are acrylic frame printers based on the Prusa i3 concept.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The images of the Alunar M508 appear to show the MK8 hotend. As you mentioned, these are old hotend designs that have been caught up by new designs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In order to use a different, higher quality hotend, you need to look out for community designs for your printer model. Thingiverse is a good source, e.g. &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/o3d/collections/alunar-m508-upgrades&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Alunar m508 Upgrades&lt;/a&gt; is a good place to start. You could look out for an e3D V6 if you want a Bowden (remote extruder) or a BondTech type (direct extruder). You need to print out a holder (plate) to accommodate the bearings, securing/fixing the belt and holding to fans and the heat sink.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2021-09-13T20:55:41.747" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18066" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18182" CreationDate="2021-09-13T22:01:51.413" Score="3" ViewCount="2633" Body="&lt;p&gt;My shiny new Ender 3 V2 seems to ignore the Z-axis limit switch, when I print a model. It moves the nozzle so far down, that it scratches on the bed and destroys the nozzle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, when I use the Auto Home function it lowers the nozzle until the limit switch clicks and than stops.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After disabling the stepper motors, the printing platform can be leveled. When after that a printing process is started, Z-axis comes down, the limit switch clicks, but the Z-axis goes about 1.5 mm further down ignoring the switch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a result, the nozzle is pressed with such force to the platform that no filament comes out of the nozzle and is grated with such force that the nozzle and the platform get damaged.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I checked the Z-axis offset in the software to be zero. I moved the Z-axis limit switch higher, to check if the behavior changes without success. The installed firmware version is 1.0.2.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can someone tell me why it ignores the Z-axis limit switch during printing, when it reacts to it during the leveling process? I just want to print my first ever model.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31153" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-09-13T22:15:25.570" LastActivityDate="2021-10-03T14:26:42.347" Title="Ender 3 V2 ignories Z-axis limit switch" Tags="|creality-ender-3|bed-leveling|z-axis|homing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18067" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18068" CreationDate="2021-09-13T22:10:29.750" Score="3" ViewCount="1038" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had an idea to make a program for my Arduino Uno that beeps whenever a print is done, but I can't find anything about interfacing it with the printer as all Google gives me is stuff about making a 3D printer from an Arduino.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31152" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-09-13T22:12:02.753" LastActivityDate="2021-09-14T06:32:53.720" Title="Would it be possible to use an Arduino Uno to interface with my Ender 3 pro so I can program it to beep when done?" Tags="|creality-ender-3|arduino|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18068" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18067" CreationDate="2021-09-13T22:26:36.663" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes you could. But, as an alternative to the Arduino Uno, it might be far easier to send a beep by G-code &lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#M300:_Play_beep_sound&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;code&gt;M300&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/a&gt; (or &lt;a href=&quot;https://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M300.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here for Marlin firmware&lt;/a&gt;), this will bypass the need for an Arduino Uno entirely. You can even play the soundtrack/theme of Beverly Hills cop &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/11057/5740&quot;&gt;from this previous answer&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can add the (set of) G-code(s) to the &amp;quot;end G-code&amp;quot; in your slicer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-09-14T06:32:53.720" LastActivityDate="2021-09-14T06:32:53.720" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18069" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16722" CreationDate="2021-09-13T23:32:38.317" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;An enclosure without ventilation would definitely not be enough to contain VOCs from my experience with ABS and HIPS (both have relatively strong smells). The fumes will simply seep out of the openings in the enclosure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I put my 3d printer in a bathroom with an exhaust fan. The fan's outlet is IP-controllable, so I have OctoPrint run the fan every few minutes to exhaust the fumes (or constantly). It works great. When the fan is on no fumes escape. You can verify by burning some incense and seeing that the smoke flows into the bathroom from outside. Putting a facial tissue close to the door will demonstrate the suction effect also.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20689" LastActivityDate="2021-09-13T23:32:38.317" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18070" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10785" CreationDate="2021-09-14T01:34:30.330" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Try changing retraction to 6 mm but slow it down to 25 mm.  Stopped all of my stringing issues with Hatchbox.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31154" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-09-14T01:47:27.443" LastActivityDate="2021-09-14T01:47:27.443" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18071" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-09-14T08:32:48.307" Score="2" ViewCount="4015" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Klipper documentation &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.klipper3d.org/skew_correction.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;describes&lt;/a&gt; how I should apply skew correction:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Print the test model (I printed this &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2972743&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;100x100x100 3-dimensional model&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Make the measurements (I have got about 0.5...0.6 mm errors at all of the axes)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Send skew correction G-code at the beginning of the print&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This does not look like the most convenient way for me. I'd like to add these values to the Klipper configuration file to make all my prints more straight. However, I did not get the idea of how to edit &lt;code&gt;printer.cfg&lt;/code&gt; file properly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm aware of the possibility of going beyond the printing zone. I suppose that for my case (only half a millimeter on a 100 mm model) can not lead to any issues with my printer mechanics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.klipper3d.org/Config_Reference.html?h=skew_correction#skew_correction&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;documentation&lt;/a&gt;, this part is not adding any details.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can someone post some examples or short instructions to make this possible?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you need this information: I have the original Ender 3 (3 y.o. or so) with no kinematics or electronics improvements. Only head modification: V6 with BMG direct extruder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;UPDATE&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried to append the following to &lt;code&gt;printer.cfg&lt;/code&gt; file:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XCvZf.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XCvZf.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However after restart I see error message:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KR2fA.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KR2fA.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19035" LastEditorUserId="19035" LastEditDate="2021-09-14T18:13:51.357" LastActivityDate="2023-03-30T00:42:51.963" Title="Is it possible to store skew correction values in printer.cfg file in Klipper?" Tags="|klipper|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18073" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-09-14T11:35:36.120" Score="0" ViewCount="1398" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yesterday I installed Marlin firmware, 2.0.x bugfix version on my Tronxy X5SA (v6).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did it in the way explained on GitHub, with Visual Studio Code, Platform IO, Marlin auto build. I applied the recommended modifications in the Tronxy example.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The firmware compiled successfully (the bugfix sources as the 2.0.9.1 source gives me an error - I may open another question for it), and is starting successfully on the printer. But, I have these 2 issues:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;When the printer starts, the bed stays in a low position (about 20 cm from the nozzle) and I cannot get it lifted up to reach the Z sensor. When I want to lift it up, I can only lift it by 10 units, then it's on 0.00 and it does not move up anymore. I was used to doing the Z offset manually with the Tronxy firmware, by lifting the bed with the firmware tool. Here, I cannot do it. When reaching 0.00 it does not move up. I could not identify a parameter for it in the config file and/or tutorial.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I tried to start a print, nothing happened. Even the nozzle/bed warmup didn't work, nothing was heating up. I tried manually to enable bed/nozzle heating, and it worked.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Home position setting. Seems the home position is not correct with X-axis, despite the fact that I did set the printer dimensions in the file. How do I fix it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you probably already understood I cannot get anything to work properly so far with my printer and Marlin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maybe one of you already faced the same situation with that printer and Marlin, or you might maybe know a good place where I can find a tutorial matching my setup that I can apply the same. So far I was not able to find a thread helping me to get this fixed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I downloaded the file corresponding to X5SA from GitHub, &lt;code&gt;configuration.h&lt;/code&gt;, and used it. I just applied the recommended changes from &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Configurations/blob/bugfix-2.0.x/config/examples/Tronxy/X5SA/HOWTO-INSTALL.md&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;the page of X5SA example&lt;/a&gt; (with the calculation) to it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason why I used the bugfix source is that I was not able to compile version 2.0.9.1. It ends up with an error message I was not able to fix. Only the bugfix version did compile.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31168" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2022-02-02T17:33:12.343" LastActivityDate="2024-02-22T20:06:45.813" Title="Tronxy X5SA not working properly after Marlin firmware installation" Tags="|marlin|bed-leveling|firmware|z-probe|tronxy-x5sa|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18078" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18080" CreationDate="2021-09-16T15:27:37.270" Score="0" ViewCount="2941" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is it possible to buy/upgrade the nozzle on my Ender 3 Pro to one that is suited for handling the higher temperatures needed to effectively print with PETG filament?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31152" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-09-16T16:36:17.170" LastActivityDate="2021-09-16T16:36:17.170" Title="Can the Ender 3 Pro be upgraded to use PETG" Tags="|creality-ender-3|nozzle|petg|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18080" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18078" CreationDate="2021-09-16T15:33:59.133" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;No hotend upgrade is required to print PETG on an Ender 3 (pro or any other variant). The stock hotend can be used at temperatures up to 250 ˚C, and 230-245 ˚C is the range typically recommended for PETG. I print it at 245 ˚C.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may however want to upgrade the extruder. The stock extruder lacks both torque and grip, and significantly skips/slips when trying to print PETG at any significant speed. Going over 40 mm/s or so is likely to produced failed prints. Look for an extruder with gear reduction and a hob that's designed to grip the filament better (vs the flat one that comes with the printer) or even dual driven hobs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2021-09-16T15:33:59.133" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18081" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-09-16T17:13:38.780" Score="0" ViewCount="79" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hopefully this isn't too vague, but I have a question I just can't figure out:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We're in the midst of possibly designing a new printer.  I can't give too many of the details away except that its somewhat like an &amp;quot;IDEX&amp;quot; printer where different extruders will print different parts of a print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now I understand how to split an .stl into two and assign extruders to each area.  I have a Prusa with an MMU on it and I also have access to a J750 that does something similar. I've split things in Blender and imported them as assemblies of stl's, where each stl is assigned a material.  My question is more like:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;-If I wanted to split a part by location and assign extruders, and I wanted to do this quickly &lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;in a slicing software&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt; (instead of in a cad software prior to getting into the slicing software), is this possible?  &lt;strong&gt;Is there a software (Cura/PrusaSlicer/something else) that already does this?&lt;/strong&gt; I.e.  the 'right-most' part of the print will be one extruder, the 'left-most' will be another.  Something like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4SW6g.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4SW6g.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;P.s. I know in PrusaSlicer you can &amp;quot;paint&amp;quot; where a material will be, but this would be more of a &amp;quot;chop&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15186" LastActivityDate="2021-09-16T17:13:38.780" Title="Automatically split a part for separate extruders" Tags="|slicing|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18082" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-09-16T19:43:04.380" Score="2" ViewCount="736" Body="&lt;p&gt;Wouldn't it be better to mount lead screws with the motor on top and the bottom end unconstrained? Compared to the conventional way (motor on the bottom) the lead screw would be under constant tension rather than compression and any misalignment would always be &amp;quot;pulled straight&amp;quot; and in this way minimize z-wobble.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a image for clarification:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7hSCU.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Illustration of wobble in both top and bottom mounted stepper motors with lead screws&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7hSCU.png&quot; alt=&quot;Illustration of wobble in both top and bottom mounted stepper motors with lead screws&quot; title=&quot;Illustration of wobble in both top and bottom mounted stepper motors with lead screws&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With the motor on top the load of the bed will help to move the lead screw in line with the mount. In the opposite case the load tends to further increase any misalignment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31202" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2021-09-17T19:49:18.660" LastActivityDate="2023-11-20T01:01:56.907" Title="Lead screw orientation" Tags="|print-quality|diy-3d-printer|printer-building|mechanics|lead-screw|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18083" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18082" CreationDate="2021-09-16T21:57:35.547" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The motor is mounted in a fixed position no matter if it's on top or bottom.&#xA;You can imagine the lead screw as a rod hanging down and supporting the bed in the Z direction only, because all of the XY rigidity comes from the Liner rails the bed is attached to it works just as well if the stiff rod is under compression instead of hanging from the rod.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any forces that might &amp;quot;pull it straight&amp;quot; are the same forces that can cause Z wobble so you would not want to even try to use the misalignment to straighten a bent lead screw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only thing this that really changes with this orientation is if the lead screw is under tension or compression. Even a relatively thin lead screw can easy counter the forces of gravity and the forces is the same in both directions. Its easy and cheap to make a smooth rod or rail straight but not so easy to make a threaded one straight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30645" LastEditorUserId="30645" LastEditDate="2021-09-17T21:04:13.783" LastActivityDate="2021-09-17T21:04:13.783" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18084" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-09-16T22:35:41.280" Score="4" ViewCount="75" Body="&lt;p&gt;When watching the Raspberry PI daemon.log while running OctoPrint, I see contents like the following, which occasionally includes &lt;strong&gt;enqueing &amp;quot;CRASH_RECOVER&amp;quot;&lt;/strong&gt; (but I do not see &amp;quot;CRASH_DETECTED&amp;quot;). This is usually preceded by &amp;quot;INFO - Got a resend request from the printer&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But what is it telling me when it logs &lt;strong&gt;enqueing &amp;quot;CRASH_RECOVER&amp;quot;&lt;/strong&gt; ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Sep 16 17:22:23 octoprint octoprint[413]: | Recv: T:215.3 /215.0 B:59.8 /60.0 T0:215.3 /215.0 @:65 B@:69 P:0.0 A:42.5&#xA;Sep 16 17:22:23 octoprint octoprint[413]: | Recv:   0 step= 1 mscnt=  30&#xA;Sep 16 17:22:23 octoprint octoprint[413]: | Recv: tmc2130_goto_step 1 1 2 1000&#xA;Sep 16 17:22:23 octoprint octoprint[413]: | Recv: tmc2130_home_exit tmc2130_sg_homing_axes_mask=0x02&#xA;Sep 16 17:22:23 octoprint octoprint[413]: | Recv: echo:enqueing &amp;quot;CRASH_RECOVER&amp;quot;&#xA;Sep 16 17:22:23 octoprint octoprint[413]: | Recv: T:216.4 /215.0 B:59.8 /60.0 T0:216.4 /215.0 @:49 B@:49 P:0.0 A:42.6&#xA;Sep 16 17:22:23 octoprint octoprint[413]: | Recv: echo:busy: processing&#xA;Sep 16 17:22:23 octoprint octoprint[413]: | Recv: Resend: 67875&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31205" LastActivityDate="2021-09-16T22:35:41.280" Title="What does CRASH_RECOVER mean from Octoprint?" Tags="|prusa-i3|octoprint|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18085" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-09-16T23:12:02.380" Score="1" ViewCount="2474" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm planning on switching to using PLA+ and am slicing a few models, I'm wondering what the typical optimal temperature for PLA+ is with the Ender 3.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31152" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-09-17T00:46:46.077" LastActivityDate="2021-09-17T17:30:01.587" Title="What is the optimal temperature for PLA+?" Tags="|creality-ender-3|temperature|pla+|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18086" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18082" CreationDate="2021-09-17T11:19:27.640" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, but the answer could depends on how you set up the lead screws, what kind of lead screws are used and how they connect to the stepper. Also it is important how you transfer the linear Z motion into the X gantry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that regularly used TR08 (&lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/5668/&quot;&gt;Trapezoid, 8 mm&lt;/a&gt;) lead screws are stiff enough to not flex under the limited load of an X gantry. So, putting them upright or down should not make a difference. Furthermore, the whole X-gantry is usually constraint in movement by the use of linear guide rods or rails.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that lead screws are not perfect, certainly the cheaper versions (ball screws are better in that respect). The imperfections can cause the lead screw nut to move in the X-Y direction. If the nut is firmly attached to the X-gantry, this movement can be seen in the print like e.g. waves in Z-direction we call Z-wobble. There are designs like &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2588347&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;these&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2910524&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;these&lt;/a&gt; to mitigate that problem. Leaving one end free (so not constraining both ends) of the lead screw is also a mitigation as with constraining both sides, you over-constrain the screw. Note that the spring couplers you see applied frequently are great for misalignment of stepper motor shaft and lead screw, but are detrimental for the Z-axis. When using such couplers for shaft misalignment, you should &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2121687&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;constrain at least motion in Z-direction&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-09-17T17:23:43.693" LastActivityDate="2021-09-17T17:23:43.693" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18087" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18085" CreationDate="2021-09-17T14:25:46.543" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Usually the filament spool will have a range of temperatures for the best nozzle temperatures and bed temperatures to use.  To answer your quesstion there are several considerations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Not all PLA's are the same and that is probably even more so with PLA+.  That is where the temperatures written on the spool come in handy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Optimum temperatures will vary for different printers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Optimum temperatures will vary depending on the print job: large versus small; thick versus thin; short verses long; etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Optimum temperature will vary depending on print speed, as well as enclosure or lack of, and air circulating through enclosure with fans.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may need to tweak settings to get the optimum print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15075" LastEditorUserId="15075" LastEditDate="2021-09-17T17:30:01.587" LastActivityDate="2021-09-17T17:30:01.587" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18088" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-09-17T16:11:25.727" Score="2" ViewCount="6514" Body="&lt;p&gt;How safe do you think it is to run an SLA 3D printer in the bedroom? I am planning to run Mi Air Purifier 3H/C while the printer is running, I am also thinking about adding &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B086277CNQ&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; inside the actual printer (Elegoo Mini Air Purifier with carbon filter).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this safe or still too risky?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31214" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-09-17T17:12:59.230" LastActivityDate="2022-02-05T09:40:15.303" Title="Running SLA printer in the bedroom" Tags="|sla|safety|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18089" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14662" CreationDate="2021-09-17T17:01:16.730" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well I got some problems with a batch of STM32 boards where some work and some don't. I'm trying to figure out the same thing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The initial plan is a simple board with a socket for the micro and some LEDs, hopefully not 64 of them, and put in it a simple firmware that just goes around testing all the GPIOs, but I fear that the test could not be enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31216" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2023-06-27T21:43:00.480" LastActivityDate="2023-06-27T21:43:00.480" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18090" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18094" CreationDate="2021-09-17T19:17:21.883" Score="3" ViewCount="643" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am attempting to print a model that is too tall to print up-right and it has a large flat side that would be my first layer but ultimately would be the side of the object and I'd like it to look presentable.  I'm using wood PLA, so I intend to sand and stain it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've had no issues with adhesion when using a raft.  The slicer lays down a thick first layer that sticks beautifully.  Here's the first layer of a raft - nice thick lines:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2I1of.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;First layer of a raft&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2I1of.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;First layer of a raft&quot; title=&quot;First layer of a raft&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But when I try printing without the raft (even when using a brim) that first layer is not only thin, but easily moves away.  Also the lines meld together creating gaps in the layer. And that's no skirt around the outside, that's the side of the model that doesn't touch the fill.  I have to imagine this would be awful rough and impossible to sand out if it finished.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tFiqL.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Printing without a raft&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tFiqL.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Printing without a raft&quot; title=&quot;Printing without a raft&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By the second layer, the friction is picking up the first layer and it catches the extruder and bam:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hCaCe.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Destroyed second layer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hCaCe.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Destroyed second layer&quot; title=&quot;Destroyed second layer&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've done some research suggesting higher temps, both of the extruder and the plate.  I did see an improvement in the lines, but it still doesn't stick well.  And what is considered a good temp?  how do you know if you went too hot?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any recommended settings in the slicer to make the bottom layer smoother?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The printer is a FlashForge Creator Pro.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31218" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2021-09-17T19:41:50.480" LastActivityDate="2021-09-19T06:02:22.940" Title="Need help printing a quality first layer, but having adhesion and fill issues" Tags="|print-quality|pla|adhesion|flashforge-creator|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18091" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14662" CreationDate="2021-09-17T19:32:40.253" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;A good starting point &lt;em&gt;could&lt;/em&gt; be to use one of the two versions of the &lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/wiki/File:RAMPS1.4_TestCode.pde&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;code&gt;RAMPS1.4_TestCode.pde&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/a&gt; testcode, which is linked to by this thread on the RepRapWiki, &lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?219,99920&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;RAMPS 1.4 test code&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please note it will switch on and off your heated-bed and extruder hot-end too besides moving all the motors and flashing the leds. Disconnect them if you do not want any heating while testing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a later version, in &lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?219,99920,165777#msg-165777&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this post&lt;/a&gt; on the same thread, which also checks the individual stepper motor steps:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#define X_STEP_PIN 54&#xA;#define X_DIR_PIN 55&#xA;#define X_ENABLE_PIN 38&#xA;#define X_MIN_PIN 3&#xA;#define X_MAX_PIN 2&#xA;&#xA;#define Y_STEP_PIN 60&#xA;#define Y_DIR_PIN 61&#xA;#define Y_ENABLE_PIN 56&#xA;#define Y_MIN_PIN 14&#xA;#define Y_MAX_PIN 15&#xA;&#xA;#define Z_STEP_PIN 46&#xA;#define Z_DIR_PIN 48&#xA;#define Z_ENABLE_PIN 62&#xA;#define Z_MIN_PIN 18&#xA;#define Z_MAX_PIN 19&#xA;&#xA;#define E_STEP_PIN 26&#xA;#define E_DIR_PIN 28&#xA;#define E_ENABLE_PIN 24&#xA;&#xA;#define Q_STEP_PIN 36&#xA;#define Q_DIR_PIN 34&#xA;#define Q_ENABLE_PIN 30&#xA;&#xA;#define SDPOWER -1&#xA;#define SDSS 53&#xA;#define LED_PIN 13&#xA;&#xA;#define FAN_PIN 9&#xA;&#xA;#define PS_ON_PIN 12&#xA;#define KILL_PIN -1&#xA;&#xA;#define HEATER_0_PIN 10&#xA;#define HEATER_1_PIN 8&#xA;#define TEMP_0_PIN 13 // ANALOG NUMBERING&#xA;#define TEMP_1_PIN 14 // ANALOG NUMBERING&#xA;&#xA;void setup() {&#xA;  pinMode(FAN_PIN , OUTPUT);&#xA;  pinMode(HEATER_0_PIN , OUTPUT);&#xA;  pinMode(HEATER_1_PIN , OUTPUT);&#xA;  pinMode(LED_PIN , OUTPUT);&#xA;&#xA;  pinMode(X_STEP_PIN , OUTPUT);&#xA;  pinMode(X_DIR_PIN , OUTPUT);&#xA;  pinMode(X_ENABLE_PIN , OUTPUT);&#xA;&#xA;  pinMode(Y_STEP_PIN , OUTPUT);&#xA;  pinMode(Y_DIR_PIN , OUTPUT);&#xA;  pinMode(Y_ENABLE_PIN , OUTPUT);&#xA;&#xA;  pinMode(Z_STEP_PIN , OUTPUT);&#xA;  pinMode(Z_DIR_PIN , OUTPUT);&#xA;  pinMode(Z_ENABLE_PIN , OUTPUT);&#xA;&#xA;  pinMode(E_STEP_PIN , OUTPUT);&#xA;  pinMode(E_DIR_PIN , OUTPUT);&#xA;  pinMode(E_ENABLE_PIN , OUTPUT);&#xA;&#xA;  pinMode(Q_STEP_PIN , OUTPUT);&#xA;  pinMode(Q_DIR_PIN , OUTPUT);&#xA;  pinMode(Q_ENABLE_PIN , OUTPUT);&#xA;&#xA;  digitalWrite(X_ENABLE_PIN , LOW);&#xA;  digitalWrite(Y_ENABLE_PIN , LOW);&#xA;  digitalWrite(Z_ENABLE_PIN , LOW);&#xA;  digitalWrite(E_ENABLE_PIN , LOW);&#xA;  digitalWrite(Q_ENABLE_PIN , LOW);&#xA;}&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;void loop () {&#xA;&#xA;  // if (millis() %1000 &amp;lt;500)&#xA;  // digitalWrite(LED_PIN, HIGH);&#xA;  // else&#xA;  // digitalWrite(LED_PIN, LOW);&#xA;&#xA;  // if (millis() %1000 &amp;lt;300) {&#xA;  // digitalWrite(HEATER_0_PIN, HIGH);&#xA;  // digitalWrite(HEATER_1_PIN, LOW);&#xA;  // digitalWrite(FAN_PIN, LOW);&#xA;  // } else if (millis() %1000 &amp;lt;600) {&#xA;  // digitalWrite(HEATER_0_PIN, LOW);&#xA;  // digitalWrite(HEATER_1_PIN, HIGH);&#xA;  // digitalWrite(FAN_PIN, LOW);&#xA;  // } else {&#xA;  // digitalWrite(HEATER_0_PIN, LOW);&#xA;  // digitalWrite(HEATER_1_PIN, LOW);&#xA;  // digitalWrite(FAN_PIN, HIGH);&#xA;  // }&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;  if ( millis() % 60000 &amp;lt; 30000) {&#xA;    digitalWrite(X_DIR_PIN , HIGH);&#xA;    digitalWrite(Y_DIR_PIN , HIGH);&#xA;    digitalWrite(Z_DIR_PIN , HIGH);&#xA;    digitalWrite(E_DIR_PIN , HIGH);&#xA;    digitalWrite(Q_DIR_PIN , HIGH);&#xA;    digitalWrite(HEATER_0_PIN, LOW);&#xA;    digitalWrite(FAN_PIN, HIGH);&#xA;    digitalWrite(HEATER_1_PIN, LOW);&#xA;    digitalWrite(LED_PIN, HIGH);&#xA;&#xA;  }&#xA;  else {&#xA;    digitalWrite(X_DIR_PIN , LOW);&#xA;    digitalWrite(Y_DIR_PIN , LOW);&#xA;    digitalWrite(Z_DIR_PIN , LOW);&#xA;    digitalWrite(E_DIR_PIN , LOW);&#xA;    digitalWrite(Q_DIR_PIN , LOW);&#xA;    digitalWrite(HEATER_0_PIN, HIGH);&#xA;    digitalWrite(FAN_PIN, LOW);&#xA;    digitalWrite(HEATER_1_PIN, HIGH);&#xA;    digitalWrite(LED_PIN, LOW);&#xA;&#xA;  }&#xA;&#xA;  digitalWrite(X_STEP_PIN , LOW);&#xA;  digitalWrite(Y_STEP_PIN , LOW);&#xA;  digitalWrite(Z_STEP_PIN , LOW);&#xA;  digitalWrite(E_STEP_PIN , LOW);&#xA;  digitalWrite(Q_STEP_PIN , LOW);&#xA;&#xA;  delay (200);&#xA;&#xA;  digitalWrite(X_STEP_PIN , HIGH);&#xA;  digitalWrite(Y_STEP_PIN , HIGH);&#xA;  digitalWrite(Z_STEP_PIN , HIGH);&#xA;  digitalWrite(E_STEP_PIN , HIGH);&#xA;  digitalWrite(Q_STEP_PIN , HIGH);&#xA;&#xA;  delay (200);&#xA;&#xA;}&#xA;&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As your board isn't a RAMPS you will probably have to change some of the &lt;code&gt;#defines&lt;/code&gt;, to correspond with your board, but that should just be a simple &lt;em&gt;search-and-replace&lt;/em&gt; exercise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4762" LastActivityDate="2021-09-17T19:32:40.253" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18092" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-09-17T20:52:51.643" Score="4" ViewCount="2801" Body="&lt;p&gt;I understand that an STL file contains all the coordinates of all the vertices of all triangles that a surface may be subdivided into. But it does not contain the physical dimensions of the model.&#xA;However, in Tinkercad, we create a 3D model with very specific dimensions in mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We then import the STL file into a slicer where it appears with exactly the same dimensions we set up in Tinkercad for the object. After converting the STL to G-code, the printer prints the 3D model with the dimensions we intended it to have.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How is all that possible if the initial STL file does not have information about the physical dimensions of the object?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31219" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-09-17T22:02:00.980" LastActivityDate="2021-09-18T09:27:36.510" Title="STL files and physical dimensions of a 3D printed object" Tags="|stl|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18093" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18092" CreationDate="2021-09-17T22:48:17.083" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;STL is unit-less, but everything that cares about units will pick one.&#xA;Typically, the unit picked is mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But even if that's not the case, you can always scale it with a unit conversion ratio after importing it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28397" LastEditorUserId="854" LastEditDate="2021-09-18T09:27:36.510" LastActivityDate="2021-09-18T09:27:36.510" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18094" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18090" CreationDate="2021-09-18T05:44:00.303" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The extrusions look great to me, it just appears to me the nozzle is starting too far from the bed. If you go in to your slicer and subtract 0.1 to 0.3 mm or so from the Z-offset that might fix your issues. Or follow the supplied directions on how to tram (level) your bed as this tends to include setting the starting Zgap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IZA9L.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IZA9L.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you did set the gap to your satisfaction I would recommend still changing the offset in -0.1 mm increments and checking if the print sticks better each time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would always recommend a thicker first layer for most any FDM printer. It conforms much better to any variations in nozzle to bed distance. For a more reliable bed adhesion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On a 0.4 mm nozzle I use 0.3 mm for a first layer height. You may have to adjust first layers speeds to help with this. Something around half normal print speeds have worked well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XWlwB.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XWlwB.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bumping up temperatures as you have you have done is a way to get better adhesion but I feel this should be more of a last resort, you have other better options for bed adhesion such as a proper Z gap and thicker first layer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;20 °C is a large extruder temperature increase, this could cause cooling or warping issues later. I have spent a lot of time tuning my printers and have seen first hand the dangers of tuning out one issue only to find out later that change solved the issue I was focused on at the time but added two more issues at a later time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I recommend adjusting settings that effect the fewest other unrelated aspects first. In this case that would be starting Z gap, clean bed surface (free of hand oils) then maybe bed temps. Unless you happen to be printing at a unusually low extruder temperature I would avoid adjusting print temperatures to solve bed adhesion issues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30645" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-09-19T06:02:22.940" LastActivityDate="2021-09-19T06:02:22.940" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18095" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17915" CreationDate="2021-09-18T15:14:02.917" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Layer height affects the exposure time. Thicker layers mean that you need to expose longer. You would need to test and verify what works for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31232" LastActivityDate="2021-09-18T15:14:02.917" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18096" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18111" CreationDate="2021-09-18T20:59:28.847" Score="3" ViewCount="101" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a seemingly unique problem. I'm trying to design models that print with single extrusion walls and are not closed volumes. For example, a topographical map model printed on an edge. It has height and width, but no depth. I want the model to print with a single, non-closed extrusion per layer. Printing back and forth as it moves up the model.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When slicers cut up a model, historically each plane must result in a closed shape. The slicer then determines the tool path to create that shape. But what if, instead of a closed shape, the slice results in lines. No area or volume, just lines. Couldn't the slicer then create a tool path at each line?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there anything like this available anywhere?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, to be clear, I've been doing this 3D printing thing for a long time and know pretty well how slicers work and their resulting models. I've also been 3D modelling for a long time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The simplest solution I can think of would be to modify a slicer or find a plugin or something that already does what I'm looking for. The second possible solution would be to find 3D software that can &amp;quot;extrude&amp;quot; an arbitrarily complex surface in such a way that normal slicing software with the &amp;quot;detect thin walls&amp;quot; setting enabled would result in a single extrusion resulting in the desired outer surface. I haven't found either in my searching.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The solution should work with nearly any extrusion width or any nozzle. You have a 0.4mm nozzle, you can print the part with wall widths anywhere from ~0.4mm wide to around 1mm. Your choice when slicing. If you have a 1mm wide nozzle, you could print the part with much thicker walls. It would be configurable in the slicer because the model only defines the surfaces, no volume data.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Like I said, this is a seemingly unique problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31235" LastEditorUserId="31235" LastEditDate="2021-09-20T13:11:11.100" LastActivityDate="2021-09-30T02:53:35.397" Title="Slicing a non-closed mesh - extrude only on faces, no volume" Tags="|slicing|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18097" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18096" CreationDate="2021-09-18T23:59:49.970" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are designing a model that has single extrusion walls, you are constructing a design which has volume. A single extrusion wall will be dependent on the nozzle diameter and extrusion multiplier. For the sake of discussion, consider the theoretical nozzle 0.4 mm with a true 0.4 mm extrusion and a 0.2 mm layer thickness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your design should reflect this fact. You can/should design your non-dimensional lines to be 0.4 mm wide and 0.2 mm thick in whatever manner you use to create models.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Slicer settings can be adjusted to permit single extrusion walls. A common example is vase mode, in which the printer is directed to construct a single extrusion wall in a specified pattern, usually with an appropriately thick base.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The caveat in this case is that the model file was created to match these requirements. It will be represented as a solid with a thickness to the wall appropriate to the nozzle size.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you create test models representing a small sample of your overall project and slice them with your preferred slicer, you can examine the resulting g-code, or use the preview feature common in slicers to determine if your objective is accomplished.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In summary, every 3D printed model has all three dimensions. This cannot be avoided, other than in a virtual/simulated environment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastActivityDate="2021-09-18T23:59:49.970" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18098" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18090" CreationDate="2021-09-19T02:08:51.943" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;After some trial and error, the answer seemed to simply be to &amp;quot;add heat.&amp;quot; I bumped both the heat of the plate by 15 °C, and the extruder by 20 °C.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also increased the size of the first layer to between 0.3 mm and 0.4 mm and it's looking much better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9A71m.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Printed model during mid-print showing a solid first layer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9A71m.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Printed model during mid-print showing a solid first layer&quot; title=&quot;Printed model during mid-print showing a solid first layer&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31218" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-09-19T04:48:35.650" LastActivityDate="2021-09-19T04:48:35.650" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18099" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15456" CreationDate="2021-09-19T02:35:36.323" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Eco mode under settings shuts off the bed after a 30 minutes ish maybe an hour. Either way it is probably the issue&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31239" LastActivityDate="2021-09-19T02:35:36.323" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18100" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18114" CreationDate="2021-09-19T12:43:49.567" Score="1" ViewCount="1547" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Tronxy X5SA printer upon which I want to install the latest Marlin firmware v2.0.9.1.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I take the configuration example on GitHub for the X5SA printer and modify the lines in &lt;code&gt;configuration.h&lt;/code&gt; as recommended in the guide (see &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Configurations/blob/import-2.0.x/config/examples/Tronxy/X5SA/HOWTO-INSTALL.md&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this URL&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In Visual Studio Code, when I compile, I obtain this error :&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Marlin\src\gcode\motion\G2_G3.cpp: In function 'void plan_arc(const xyze_pos_t&amp;amp;, const ab_float_t&amp;amp;, bool, uint8_t)':&#xA;Marlin\src\gcode\motion\G2_G3.cpp:154:7: error: 'MM_PER_ARC_SEGMENT' was not declared in this scope&#xA;       MM_PER_ARC_SEGMENT&#xA;       ^~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~&#xA;Marlin\src\gcode\motion\G2_G3.cpp:154:7: note: suggested alternative: 'MAX_ARC_SEGMENT_MM'&#xA;       ^~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~&#xA;       MAX_ARC_SEGMENT_MM&#xA;Compiling .pio\build\chitu_f103\src\src\gcode\sd\M20.cpp.o&#xA;*** [.pio\build\chitu_f103\src\src\gcode\motion\G2_G3.cpp.o] Error 1&#xA;========================================================================================= [FAILED] Took 71.95 seconds ========================================================================================= &#xA;&#xA;Environment    Status    Duration&#xA;-------------  --------  ------------&#xA;chitu_f103     FAILED    00:01:11.945&#xA;==================================================================================== 1 failed, 0 succeeded in 00:01:11.945 ==================================================================================== &#xA;PS D:\TRONXY\Marlin-2.0.9.1\Marlin-2.0.9.1&amp;gt; echo &amp;quot;done&amp;quot; &amp;gt;C:\Users\myUser\AppData\Local\Temp\ipc&#xA;PS D:\TRONXY\Marlin-2.0.9.1\Marlin-2.0.9.1&amp;gt; &#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is the code in &lt;code&gt;G2_G3.cpp&lt;/code&gt; on line 154, but I need some help to understand why it's wrong, and how to fix...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt; // Start with a nominal segment length&#xA;  float seg_length = (&#xA;    #ifdef ARC_SEGMENTS_PER_R&#xA;      constrain(MM_PER_ARC_SEGMENT * radius, MM_PER_ARC_SEGMENT, ARC_SEGMENTS_PER_R)&#xA;    #elif ARC_SEGMENTS_PER_SEC&#xA;      _MAX(scaled_fr_mm_s * RECIPROCAL(ARC_SEGMENTS_PER_SEC), MM_PER_ARC_SEGMENT)&#xA;    #else&#xA;      MM_PER_ARC_SEGMENT // LINE 154 HERE!!&#xA;    #endif&#xA;  );&#xA;  // Divide total travel by nominal segment length&#xA;  uint16_t segments = FLOOR(mm_of_travel / seg_length);&#xA;  NOLESS(segments, min_segments);         // At least some segments&#xA;  seg_length = mm_of_travel / segments;&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have tried to compile the BugFix version successfully, but unfortunately the bugfix version does not work properly with my printer (I can't get the bed to lift to the probe. I have opened &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/18073/tronxy-x5sa-not-working-properly-after-marlin-firmware-installation&quot;&gt;another post&lt;/a&gt; for the bugfix version issue).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31168" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2021-09-21T10:37:45.333" LastActivityDate="2021-09-21T15:18:19.477" Title="Marlin firmware 2.0.9.1 for X5SA example : MM_PER_ARC_SEGMENT Compilation Error" Tags="|marlin|firmware|tronxy|tronxy-x5sa|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18101" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-09-19T13:13:43.223" Score="0" ViewCount="131" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been using a resin printer for some time now, and am looking for a filament printer to compliment it. It will mostly be used to print scenery or bases to match 3-6&amp;quot; models printer on the resin printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm aiming for an entry level printer, or possible a mid level one on black Friday sale if I can find one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I limit myself to looking for one with a heated bed or auto-bed leveling, or should I mark these down as being bonus features that are nice to have but which are not essential for the kind of printing that I will be doing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I will probably be using basic budget filament to print items under 6&amp;quot;. Probably no more than 2 prints a week.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="29097" LastActivityDate="2021-09-24T12:05:45.800" Title="Are heated beds or auto-levelling systems worth paying extra for on an entry level filament printer?" Tags="|heated-bed|bed-leveling|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18102" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18101" CreationDate="2021-09-19T13:46:50.530" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most &amp;quot;auto-leveling&amp;quot; is not leveling but compensation for a non-flat or non-level bed surface. It's helpful to beginners who don't understand bed leveling or evaluating bed surface flatness and replacing a bad bad, for the sake of being able to get started without prints failing to adhere, but it will necessarily give you moderate to severe accuracy problems in the first cm or so of your print unless you manually level the bed right too. (This is as opposed to real three-point, three-motor leveling systems, which &lt;em&gt;do&lt;/em&gt; really level and are great, but won't be found on entry-level printers.) Decide whether you want to spend money on that accordingly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally, I find heated bed unnecessary unless you'll be printing ABS, ASA, or maybe PETG (it's hard but not impossible to print PETG without it). Heating the bed kinda makes PLA print worse (at least there are tradeoffs; it does help adhesion though), and flexible materials never need heat. However, pretty much all popular printers nowadays offer a heated bed anyway, so I don't think you'd be saving anything by going without it, and you're likely enough to want it at some point that you should just get it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2021-09-19T13:46:50.530" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18103" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16713" CreationDate="2021-09-19T15:23:53.510" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Whenever the UI of a CR-6 doesn't function correctly after a firmware upgrade, either the firmware upgrade didn't go well or the firmware of the screen is no longer compatible with the firmware of the printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you know the screen and firmware are supposed to be compatible, try updating the firmware again. There is some sort of 'is this update the same as the current version' check on it, so you may have to alternate between different firmware files (.bin) or at least different filenames. Last time it took me 3 attempts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4897" LastActivityDate="2021-09-19T15:23:53.510" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18104" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-09-19T15:32:54.450" Score="1" ViewCount="1147" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a new issue to me. I'm using Repetier and Cura to slice. I never had issues prior to this. What is throwing me off is the issue (Which appears to be under extrusion) only occurs on the front right side of the print (Has happened the last two prints) and it went away completely during one print for a good 20-30 layers. The other 3 sides are perfect. I have hundreds of prints on this printer and it's never occurred before and the fact that it is inconsistent has me baffled. Any input would be appreciated.&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ae03x.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ae03x.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Perfect on 2 other sides.&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CIHJp.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CIHJp.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Inconsistent extrusion only on one side and it goes away for a few layers?&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31246" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-09-19T22:17:55.560" LastActivityDate="2023-12-05T22:35:34.910" Title="Under extrusion issue only in one vertical area but inconsistent" Tags="|print-quality|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18105" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18139" CreationDate="2021-09-19T17:08:02.777" Score="2" ViewCount="219" Body="&lt;p&gt;Prints are generally successful, but I always get a herringbone pattern on the top and bottom surfaces and striations on the sides. The herringbone is finer with finer print qualities, but it is always there. Ditto the sides. See photos.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Always there, regardless of temperature (using a heat tower), speed (even very slow), quality in Cura, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Perhaps this is the best an Ender 3 Pro can do? If so, that's fine. I'm only trying to determine what this printer is capable of.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Perhaps I can improve the top surface with ironing, but that isn't my question.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some things I've done with no effect: Run PLA spool from a drying cabinet; replaced extruder; reset Bowden tube; replaced nozzle; leveled bed numerous times.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One thing I haven't tried yet (will soon): using a better grade of PLA.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JvYbY.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Top herringbone&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JvYbY.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Top herringbone&quot; title=&quot;Top herringbone&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SQY6r.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Side&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SQY6r.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Side&quot; title=&quot;Side&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's a heat tower, so the top surface was 190 °C. Speed was about 50-60 mm/s (don't remember exactly). With the belt tightened, the herringbone is much finer, but still there. The walls are much smoother, by still the layers are visible. I'm just not sure what to expect from this printer. Am I supposed to get surfaces that are perfectly smooth, or is some texture to be expected?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31249" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2021-09-25T14:20:34.480" LastActivityDate="2021-09-26T19:54:42.463" Title="Are these normal surfaces from an Ender 3 Pro with PLA?" Tags="|creality-ender-3|quality|surface|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18106" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17853" CreationDate="2021-09-20T00:02:50.827" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the print bed is contaminated with oil or fat, print bed adhesion may be too low. Cleaning with alcohol might help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="29373" LastActivityDate="2021-09-20T00:02:50.827" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18107" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13897" CreationDate="2021-09-20T03:49:05.093" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You don't need to use vase mode. But vase mode will work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not familiar with Cura, I use PrusaSlicer, but I'm sure there are equivalent settings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What you want to do is model the part in two pieces. The first piece will be the same height as the base. The second piece will be the top half. It can all be one model, but it helps to think of it as two.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the bottom part, add your hole, and print it with however many solid layers as is required to make the base thickness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the top part, make it solid, and print it with 1 perimeter and 0 % infill and 0 top and bottom layers. You can decide the wall thickness by tweaking the extrusion width.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to make the part perfect, you can size the bottom hole by taking the dimensions of the upper portion and subtracting whatever extrusion width you will use from the surfaces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can print as many of these as you want as close together as you can because it isn't using vase mode.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31235" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-09-20T07:58:53.120" LastActivityDate="2021-09-20T07:58:53.120" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18108" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-09-20T06:43:09.237" Score="0" ViewCount="340" Body="&lt;p&gt;My OctPrint and Monoprice Maker Select IIIP (A Wanhao i3 Duplicator Plus clone) were working fine, but suddenly today the hot end won't heat up anymore. I tried disconnecting the OctoPrint USB and resetting the printer power, and it still couldn't heat up the extruder, such as through the filament menu.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But then it got weird.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I left it off for a few hours and turned it on to see if it was getting 12 V to the hot end, and it was heating up again!  So I plugged in the OctopPrint and we're back to square one, the extruder has just been cooling down. I know the thermistor is working, because it's accurately following the temp, such as following the cooldown after the heating stopped working again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it possibly I have a dead hot end and for some reason it temporarily started to work again?  Maybe an intermittent short?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I guess the next step is to open up the base and look at the connector to the motherboard, and or measure for 12 V&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2240" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-09-20T07:57:38.260" LastActivityDate="2021-10-20T14:05:55.803" Title="OctoPrint suddenly no longer able to heat up hot end / extruder" Tags="|extruder|hotend|wanhao|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18109" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18108" CreationDate="2021-09-20T10:41:13.220" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This has nothing to do with OctoPrint itself, the cause is related to the printer itself, not the print server running the printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a pretty commonly seen issue (usually seen at heated beds), this is caused by faulty wires/cables or connectors. This usually happens after a vast period of usage. You should (periodically) check the cables and connectors. You could even test if the heater cartridge works by connecting it directly to the power supply.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Considering the limited amount of costs involved to replace the heater cartridge, it is preferred to replace the heater with a similar specification heater element (voltage and power).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-09-20T13:12:58.603" LastActivityDate="2021-09-20T13:12:58.603" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18110" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18108" CreationDate="2021-09-20T13:09:40.073" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Measure your heater resistance of the heater in the heater block.  Approximate heater resistances are  4.8 Ω for 12 V 30 W and 3.6 Ω for 12 V 40 W.  See &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10695/proper-hotend-heater-for-reprap-x400-pro-v3&quot;&gt;Proper hotend heater for Reprap x400 Pro V3&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: you could have a heater measuring the correct resistance but have a poor connection in one of the connectors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15075" LastActivityDate="2021-09-20T13:09:40.073" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18111" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18096" CreationDate="2021-09-20T13:33:52.690" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Use Cura to slice and check out the &amp;quot;Surface Mode&amp;quot; option (might be hidden by default; if so, search for and unhide it). Also known as &lt;code&gt;magic_mesh_surface_mode&lt;/code&gt;. The &amp;quot;Surface&amp;quot; choice sounds close to what you want and might suffice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2021-09-20T13:33:52.690" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18113" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-09-20T22:28:30.650" Score="1" ViewCount="149" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am working on a project to 3D print (models from) human hearts. I want to know if anyone has done it before using DICOM files.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31273" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-09-23T08:08:39.643" LastActivityDate="2022-02-26T05:01:25.137" Title="What are the best DICOM files to print 3D hearts?" Tags="|3d-models|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18114" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18100" CreationDate="2021-09-21T09:14:38.067" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The compiler can't see the definition of &lt;code&gt;MM_PER_ARC_SEGMENT&lt;/code&gt;. Find the file that it is declared in and ensure that file in included in the compile command, as an include (&lt;code&gt;#include&lt;/code&gt;) or path or whatever.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looking at the current &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/blob/2.0.x/Marlin/Configuration_adv.h&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;code&gt;Configuration_adv.h&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/a&gt; on the Marlin Github repository, the definition is at &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/blob/2.0.x/Marlin/Configuration_adv.h#L2033&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Line 2033&lt;/a&gt; in the section at Lines &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/blob/2.0.x/Marlin/Configuration_adv.h#L2028&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;2028&lt;/a&gt;-2041&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;//&#xA;// G2/G3 Arc Support&#xA;//&#xA;#define ARC_SUPPORT                 // Disable this feature to save ~3226 bytes&#xA;#if ENABLED(ARC_SUPPORT)&#xA;  #define MM_PER_ARC_SEGMENT      1 // (mm) Length (or minimum length) of each arc segment&#xA;  //#define ARC_SEGMENTS_PER_R    1 // Max segment length, MM_PER = Min&#xA;  #define MIN_ARC_SEGMENTS       24 // Minimum number of segments in a complete circle&#xA;  //#define ARC_SEGMENTS_PER_SEC 50 // Use feedrate to choose segment length (with MM_PER_ARC_SEGMENT as the minimum)&#xA;  #define N_ARC_CORRECTION       25 // Number of interpolated segments between corrections&#xA;  //#define ARC_P_CIRCLES           // Enable the 'P' parameter to specify complete circles&#xA;  //#define CNC_WORKSPACE_PLANES    // Allow G2/G3 to operate in XY, ZX, or YZ planes&#xA;  //#define SF_ARC_FIX              // Enable only if using SkeinForge with &amp;quot;Arc Point&amp;quot; fillet procedure&#xA;#endif&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ensure that you have &lt;code&gt;ARC_SUPPORT&lt;/code&gt; enabled - do not have the following line (&lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/blob/2.0.x/Marlin/Configuration_adv.h#L2031&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;2031&lt;/a&gt;) commented out:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#define ARC_SUPPORT &#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4762" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2021-09-21T15:18:19.477" LastActivityDate="2021-09-21T15:18:19.477" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18115" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18113" CreationDate="2021-09-21T14:11:05.730" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have some experience with VR visualisation of DICOM scans. I can tell you that these kind of scans usually are way too &amp;quot;hazy&amp;quot; to simply be 3D printed. To give you the best images possible you need to make a high-resolution scan of only the heart (smaller region scans make better quality images).&#xA;Siemens has had some fantastic result with their new range of scanners.&#xA;You also need some kind of software to convert it to a 3D model. This will need to make a pointcloud of the heart, clean up unneeded tissue and then make a polygonal model to be able to print it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or maybe did I misunderstand your question... in that case you need to look at turbosquid.com, thingiverse.com or cgtrader.com for example.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4708" LastActivityDate="2021-09-21T14:11:05.730" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18116" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-09-22T07:03:49.463" Score="2" ViewCount="943" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I'm using a .3mf file from Fusion 360 the circles are coming out as polygonal shapes that are very easy to see.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When using a .stl file from Fusion 360 the circles are near perfect the polygons that make it up are small enough that you can't see.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any way to fix this in Fusion 360 to export the file properly or is it a problem related to PrusaSlicer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31294" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-09-22T13:04:00.653" LastActivityDate="2021-09-22T13:05:35.307" Title="3mf circles are printing as polygons" Tags="|prusa-i3|stl|fusion360|prusaslicer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18117" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18116" CreationDate="2021-09-22T07:26:02.243" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The problem lies in Fusion 360.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you export using file export as .3mf then the refinement (poly count) is set to low. Thus it creates a low-quality circle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you export through the mesh tab, select 32d print and make sure the refinement is high then it exports a nice-looking perfect circle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31294" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-09-22T13:05:35.307" LastActivityDate="2021-09-22T13:05:35.307" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18119" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18120" CreationDate="2021-09-22T23:30:28.787" Score="4" ViewCount="1132" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3723481&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;STL&lt;/a&gt; (Raspberry Pi 4 casing) that automatically places itself like below on the bed surface:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0Xm8V.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0Xm8V.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would it be a better and more efficient print if I place it like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9Slno.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9Slno.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At first, I thought this is no-brainer, the bigger surface should be the bottom layer. However, the horizontal print might result a more efficient head movement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25720" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-09-23T08:16:45.277" LastActivityDate="2021-09-23T16:44:38.010" Title="Bed surface stability vs head movement efficiency question" Tags="|print-quality|print-orientation|efficiency|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18120" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18119" CreationDate="2021-09-23T00:36:02.163" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;The second placement is a better choice from an overall standpoint. In the vertical placement, adhesion is going to be more critical, although Prusa printers have good bonding for PLA and ABS, from my direct experience.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other aspect of more importance is that the holes are going to be distorted in the vertical arrangement. The cut-outs in the smaller portion will also &amp;quot;droop&amp;quot; unless otherwise supported. If supported, you'll have greater post-processing labor and unsightly surfaces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The design is quite well done, as the corners have radii which allows for smoother carriage travel, rather than abrupt stops with direction changes at each end.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Importing the model and having the result appear as in the first image means that the designing software swaps the z-axis and the y-axis, which is relatively common.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastActivityDate="2021-09-23T00:36:02.163" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18122" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18119" CreationDate="2021-09-23T15:01:50.543" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You've already got the correct answer, but I want to address an additional misconception in your question: head movement efficiency. Most 3D print jobs are &lt;em&gt;acceleration-bound&lt;/em&gt;, not &lt;em&gt;top-speed-bound&lt;/em&gt;. Without really cranking up the acceleration limits (which requires Klipper and input shaper tuning), the head will only reach the requested speed on &lt;em&gt;long linear moves&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The orientation lying flat has a lot of those: the 4 sides are all long, and the diagonal fill line are long.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The orientation with the part standing up on one end has very short lines, and a lot more of them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2021-09-23T15:01:50.543" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18123" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18119" CreationDate="2021-09-23T16:32:10.380" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Long story short, laying the design horizontally is a lot less problematic when compared to laying it vertically. I'll explain:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[ Vertical ]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bridging becomes more of an issue with the edge overhang. You'd need stilts to support the overhang which would fill the entire inside of your case.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wear on the printer is a concern because of the short travel distance. You'd have to print along the grain which would result in a structurally weaker design.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Holes are very difficult to do vertically and may need to be cleaned up afterward.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Excess heat build-up from the printer head may be an issue due to it having to stay in the same area for longer, which may cause problems like melting or sharp hooks/spurs.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Vertical clipping is more of a concern as the printer head has more of a chance of knocking over the design (thus ruining the print and wasting time/materials). Also, less surface area for adhesion for the first layer means the design is more prone to falling over.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[ Horizontal ]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bridging is a lot less of an issue other than the cable/power porthole on the side of the design.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wear on the printer is a lot less of an issue because of the longer travel distance in either direction (printing with the grain or against)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Holes are much easier to create when laying horizontal.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Few changes to build up heat resulting in your print being more consistent, not warping or melting.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Low clearance and large base level surface area make it near impossible for the printer head to clip/catch and ruin the design.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In most cases, it's best to keep your design as low and spread out as possible, though I've had some prints where that wasn't an option.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31323" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-09-23T16:44:38.010" LastActivityDate="2021-09-23T16:44:38.010" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18124" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18104" CreationDate="2021-09-23T16:45:28.897" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd probably start with ensuring the bed is level (you can use a bubble/spirit level if done manually) and/or move any fans in the room as those could cause inconsistent cooling rates causing it to warp (among other issues).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To make troubleshooting easier on yourself and if you are able, try to only print 10 layers or so. This can be done by modifying the G-code by ending the print at a certain height, though some slicer software have a setting for that (I can't remember at this moment which slicing software allows this to be done easily).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31323" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-09-23T17:07:11.273" LastActivityDate="2021-09-23T17:07:11.273" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18125" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18101" CreationDate="2021-09-23T16:56:50.257" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Both features are &amp;quot;nice to have&amp;quot; bonuses, BUT are worth it if you can afford it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They will save you time and money from print problems and on occasion, disasters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both make your prints more consistent and have less issues with larger (or taller) prints by cutting a lot of prep time and also ensuring your first couple base layers are done correctly (if those first couple layers mess up, then your entire print likely will be messed up). They also help a lot with materials that have issue with warping or bed adhesion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31323" LastEditorUserId="31323" LastEditDate="2021-09-23T17:02:06.997" LastActivityDate="2021-09-23T17:02:06.997" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18128" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18101" CreationDate="2021-09-24T12:05:45.800" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;FWIW, what I consider the primary entry-level filament printer, the Creality Ender 3 (under $200 any, sometimes lower depending on daily exchange rates) is sold with &lt;em&gt;heated bed included&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Beyond that, a so-called self-leveling system is IMO overrated.  For 20-25 dollars you can get a glass build surface, which eliminates non-planar build surface; combine this with proper tramming technique using a feeler gage set that costs under $10 and you can pretty easily achieve results equal to or better than what a &amp;quot;self-leveling&amp;quot; setup would give on a poorly trammed or warped bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Conversely, if your idea of &amp;quot;entry level&amp;quot; is the few sub-$100 printers, their tiny build volume and lack of any option to install either heated bed or upgraded extruders and hot ends takes them out of the running for anything other than toys.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28508" LastActivityDate="2021-09-24T12:05:45.800" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18129" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-09-24T12:19:25.090" Score="2" ViewCount="2074" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I have this exact problem as in this thread: &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11007/bltouch-calibrated-nozzle-still-dives-into-the-bed&quot;&gt;BLTouch calibrated, nozzle still dives into the bed&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I don't see a clear solution to that question, or I don't understand. After correct calibration of the BLTouch, it is homing correct with the correct nozzle distance to bed, but when printing it hits the bed. It's supposed to be plug &amp;amp; play ;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are the details of my setup:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ender 5 with 4.2.7 silent board&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;TH3D Marlin 2.0 firmware (flashed it and then an EEPROM reset)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cura slicer 4.10.0&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;BLTouch V3 from Trianglelab mounted on 5-pin, but end-stop on the micro-switch end-stop 2-pin. Also enabled this in Marlin. Offset -41, -11, 0&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could someone please help me? But be aware I'm quite new in programming stuff.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31338" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-09-24T14:35:26.243" LastActivityDate="2021-09-24T14:35:26.243" Title="BLTouch homing correct, but nozzle hits bed during print" Tags="|z-axis|bltouch|creality-ender-5|z-probe|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18131" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15108" CreationDate="2021-09-24T19:09:25.523" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;One thing that would stop the X stepper is if the X-stop limit switch were stuck &amp;quot;on.&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main function of the stop switches on the three axes is to prevent the printer from continuing to attempt to run after reaching &amp;quot;zero&amp;quot; position.  If you trip the limit switch, the firmware will decide that you were at the zero for that axis, and offset the rest of the print, but if the switch &lt;em&gt;stays&lt;/em&gt; closed, that axis will not move.  If I were designing the firmware, I'd probably command a couple steps movement toward positive in the affected axis, check if the switch has opened, and if not stop with an alert -- but especially in older 8-bit board versions of the Ender 3 there was a shortage of space for firmward features (they infamously also lack thermal runaway protection for this exact reason).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Therefore, check if the X limit switch (under the QR code label, just below the X rail) has gotten jammed; if not, unplug its cable and check with a continuity tester or multimeter to be sure it doesn't have an internal problem with the same result.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28508" LastActivityDate="2021-09-24T19:09:25.523" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18132" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-09-24T20:57:41.373" Score="4" ViewCount="127" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a beginner question: Tinkercad is a fully cloud based and the STL files are/can be stored locally on our computer (STL files are not stored in the cloud).&#xA;Fusion 360 is also fully cloud-based. However, I installed a Fusion360 client app on my pc. Is the app I downloaded just a client that communicates with the actual Fusion360 software via the internet connection?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could I use Fusion360 without downloading that app and just via the browser as we do with Tinkercad? I feel like the client app on my computer I downloaded is quite slow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31219" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-09-24T21:27:14.767" LastActivityDate="2023-04-15T16:58:18.590" Title="What does the Fusion360 client app do?" Tags="|fusion360|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18133" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18132" CreationDate="2021-09-24T21:35:12.203" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, you can use Fusion 360 via the browser without downloading. You just need Autodesk account.&#xA;Here is the &lt;a href=&quot;https://fusion.online.autodesk.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;link&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, if your computer was too slow for desktop app, you might also have problems via the browser.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27865" LastActivityDate="2021-09-24T21:35:12.203" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18134" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18088" CreationDate="2021-09-25T08:54:53.520" Score="2" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Danger Will Robinson!&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;h4&gt;Fumes&lt;/h4&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;SLA/DLP printer resins contain skin irritants inside the solvent, and those create rather noxious fumes. As described in &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/8594/best-way-to-deal-with-resin-printers-in-your-living-space&quot;&gt;Best way to deal with Resin Printers in your living space&lt;/a&gt; that can become a health hazard, and can result in pulmonary irritation. Those irritants are &lt;em&gt;molecule&lt;/em&gt; sized organic compounds, and even the best filters require an industrial-sized filter stack to catch everything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In industrial manufacturing, rooms with resin in them usually require PPE that includes at least basic breathing protection, so having it in your bedroom, where you spend on average 4 to 8 hours a day, does expose you to more than the maximum allowable dose for an industrial worker.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h4&gt;Spillage&lt;/h4&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Working with liquid resins is like working with 2 component glues: as careful as you are, you'll have some spillage or rests on trays. These need to be handled, and while with very high viscous epoxy one might get away without gloves and low-level PPE on a small level, the very fluid resin and the IPA used to wash your prints make spillage and droplets escaping the confinements where they belong a problem that is not just academical but bound to happen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A dedicated wash-and-cure area for your resin 3D prints in somewhat close proximity to the printer and both outside of your sleeping environment is something that is highly advisable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h4&gt;Conclusion&lt;/h4&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While lower irritant resins have come to the market since 2020 that have less odor and release fewer noxious solvents, the best way is still to minimize exposure and thus put the resin printer in a room that isn't your bedroom.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2022-02-05T09:40:15.303" LastActivityDate="2022-02-05T09:40:15.303" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18135" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18149" CreationDate="2021-09-25T10:01:01.140" Score="2" ViewCount="277" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to 3D print a lattice work or truss, basically some beams forming a rectangle and additional beams forming the diagonals and where those beams cross, they should be fused.  So, something like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gdKj1.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gdKj1.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;simple lattice&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem is that any slicer I give a form like this to starts drawing triangles around the inner openings and in best case those triangles then touch if you use enough walls, but the pull strength you would get from beams in such a truss is lost because the opposite corners of the rectangle are not connected by a single length of filament laid down.  Here as example what PrusaSlicer does for every layer:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dpkQW.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dpkQW.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically this gives separate triangles at the top, bottom, left and right with some rectangular walls at the outside. Not bad, but I think that for extra strength it would be better if on even layers there would be long extrusions going all the way from the top-left corner to the bottom-right corner (and hence interrupting extrusion on the other diagonal) and on odd layers having just the opposite (so long extrusions from bottom-left to top-right).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, my question: is there any way to tell the slicer to do something like that? So, having extra long (alternating) corner to corner extrusions next to the triangular &amp;quot;outer&amp;quot; walls that it normally puts down? Or, is there some other trick I could use to get a similar effect (while also having long extrusions between adjacent corners)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31349" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-09-28T09:08:31.707" LastActivityDate="2021-09-29T18:28:57.627" Title="Any way to have slicer make a stronger lattice work?" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|3d-design|slicing|fdm|prusaslicer|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18136" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18135" CreationDate="2021-09-25T10:26:13.580" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If on even layers, the routing is in one direction and on odd layers, the routing is the opposite diagonal, you'll have a much weaker structure, as there will be no material after the crossing point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Addressing that aspect, one could consider that the design is implemented in such a way that the nozzle creates the odd layer continuously from one corner to the other and then creates the &amp;quot;missing&amp;quot; segments from corner to center on the opposite diagonal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know of no slicer which will create such tool paths from a model imported to the workspace.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This leaves a relatively impractical option of creating the g-code manually. One of my clients is a machinist from the 50s who can look at an engineering drawing and hand-write the g-code for the machine center on which the part is to be created. Of course, that's not additive manufacture, it's the reverse and the cutting tool can remove far more material than a 3D printer can add.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's not an impossible task, but would be quite tedious. One might create a python code to generate appropriate g-code, given layer heights and machine-appropriate data such as speeds and temperatures, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Consider an &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nRLJ4ylGTFc&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;alternative post processing&lt;/a&gt; specific to PETG, if PETG is an acceptable material for your project. One uses 100 percent infill in the model and then embeds the part in flour salt (finely ground salt), packing it in tightly. The salt-encased part is then re-melted. The part becomes &amp;quot;non-layered&amp;quot; removing the objections in the original reference. If you consider this method, some experimentation is indicated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The above link is a six minute YouTube video showing the process for multiple models, one after the other. PLA is shown with possibly poor results compared to PETG, hence the reference to experimentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastActivityDate="2021-09-25T10:26:13.580" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18137" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18088" CreationDate="2021-09-25T12:25:03.217" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm running an Elegoo Saturn in a spare room, the smell is barely noticeable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;People tend to be over cautious about these things. Particularly Youtubers, because of fear of litigation, and because they tend to be at close quarters to resin for long periods of time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's perfectly safe to have a resin printer in a bedroom so long as you run the printer next to an open window, and keep the cover on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My advice would be to store your resin separately (in a garage, for example) and to cover the tank with a proper snap on cover (or better yet to pour the majority of the content back into a bottle and store it outsides) over night.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't try to run the printer while you are sleeping. Not because of the fumes (which I would be concerned about) but because it will absolutely destroy your ability to get a good night's rest due to the repetitive noise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For me, it's actually the IPA fumes which are the biggest problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="29097" LastActivityDate="2021-09-25T12:25:03.217" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18138" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-09-25T12:30:26.313" Score="0" ViewCount="111" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are there any common chemicals that will damage, degrade or erode (Causing pitting, for example) the most common types of resin used in an SLA printer once it has been cured?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, chemicals found in household cleaning products, paints, or motor vehicle maintenance, or hobby\crafts?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="29097" LastEditorUserId="29097" LastEditDate="2021-09-25T15:26:48.200" LastActivityDate="2021-12-31T15:19:25.473" Title="Are there any common household chemicals that will degrade or erode the most common types of resin from an SLA printer once cured?" Tags="|resin|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18139" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18105" CreationDate="2021-09-25T14:02:03.927" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;With a replaced Bowden tube and better PLA, the herringbone is a little better, and the layering on the sides is more regular, but still there. So, based on this and photos from others here (especially @Oscar), I think the answer to my question is YES: These ARE normal surfaces from this printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4762" LastEditorUserId="31249" LastEditDate="2021-09-26T15:58:11.440" LastActivityDate="2021-09-26T15:58:11.440" CommentCount="3" CommunityOwnedDate="2021-09-25T14:02:03.927" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18140" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18138" CreationDate="2021-09-25T16:09:36.447" Score="1" Body="&lt;h1&gt;NOPE&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;UV-cured Resins are Duroplastics. Most of them are chemically inert to anything short of concentrated strong acids does nothing to them. Even strong acids such as sulphuric acid (battery acid) will take quite some time to work on it - if it works at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have access to metal or glass etching equipment, those acids might have a chance, though that is not exactly &lt;em&gt;household&lt;/em&gt; equipment. My best bets would be concentrated phosphoric, sulphuric, nitrous, and of course hydroflouric acid. But you don't want to work with concentrated hydrofluoric acid if you can avoid it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2021-09-25T16:53:15.037" LastActivityDate="2021-09-25T16:53:15.037" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18141" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-09-25T17:06:22.170" Score="1" ViewCount="388" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently purchased a used Frankensbox fx-800 3D Printer and I am coming up with little info on it. I've tried the website, Google, and their Facebook page looking for some kind of support.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am curious about the firmware it has. If I can't get any info about its firmware and/or how to get in to it then I'm wondering if maybe I need to change the motherboard or maybe can add a chip in order to communicate with the current one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I determine the firmware and firmware version of a Frankensbox fx-800?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any info or insight would be awesome.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31352" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-09-26T07:16:44.667" LastActivityDate="2021-09-29T05:54:08.453" Title="How to determine the firmware and firmware version of a Frankensbox fx-800?" Tags="|troubleshooting|firmware|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="0" ClosedDate="2021-10-10T03:21:56.700" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18142" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18141" CreationDate="2021-09-26T09:15:16.970" Score="2" Body="&lt;h3&gt;Rebranded Dedibot DF3&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;DediBot seem to produce the Moria software, that is included with the Frankensbox - primarily for medical purposes: according to the third page of this PDF on the Dedibot website, &lt;a href=&quot;http://dedibot.com/file/download/3926bbd3566247d6a80d79dfbff45196&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;For medical use - Dedicated series 3D printer&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;http://dedibot.com/file/download/3926bbd3566247d6a80d79dfbff45196&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;屏幕快照 2017-10-24 下午1.37.16&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Dedibot also manufacture the DF2 and DF3 printer/bot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given the above and also that step 3 on the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.frankensbox.com/support/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;support page&lt;/a&gt; states &amp;quot;select DF3 if needed&amp;quot; (see &lt;strong&gt;Poor Support&lt;/strong&gt; below), then that would suggest that the Frankensbox software is just a &lt;em&gt;rebranded&lt;/em&gt; version of Moria.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Backing this up, the Frankensbox is apparently just a rebadged Dedibot DF3, according to this post, &lt;a href=&quot;https://forum.makewithtech.com/forum/3d-printing/807-newbie-seeking-suggestions&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Newbie seeking suggestions&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;... just purchased a Frankensbox FX-800 3D printer. It is a rebadged Dedibot DF3 Delta printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also worth noting, further down in the same thread, is this cautionary tip about the firmware (the emphasis is mine):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: More info; after talking with tech support, they suggested 215 C for temp, and to update to the latest firmware. &lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Important tip, do not try this from the software that is on their site, it has a bug that can render the printer useless&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt;. Don't ask me how I know!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although, unfortunately, the poster doesn't provide a link to the suspect firmware, nor is there a firmware link on the sparse support page.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Nevertheless, given that the Frankensbox &lt;em&gt;is&lt;/em&gt; a rebadged Dedibot DF3, searches for DF3 firmware (and other support) may prove to be more fruitful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Changing the controller&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After looking at the &lt;a href=&quot;http://myosuploads3.banggood.com/products/20190102/20190102213606-.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Moria DF3 user guide&lt;/a&gt;, the software interface &lt;em&gt;does&lt;/em&gt; seem to be particularly limiting, and I am starting to understand why you would want to replace the board to maybe something more conventional (i.e. an off-the-shelf board, like RAMPS, or Melzi, etc.). Whilst that probably is possible, and maybe quite easy to do physically, &lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;if&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt; all of the plugs and connectors are the same, and the new board fits or can be easily mounted (if it doesn't mount easily, then some hacking and cutting could be involved and the printer may well begin to adopt an actual Frankenstien-eque character).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, you would then obviously need to do some configuration of some firmware, i.e. Marlin, (which may or may not be straight forward for that particular printer).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is all purely speculative of course - without seeing a photo of the original board and its connectors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Nevertheless, this would be like (partially) going down a DIY printer route, and all of the work that entails. Totally possible, but maybe not super easy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Reflashing the existing board&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another option is to reflash the existing board with an new image, i.e. Marlin or something else, &lt;em&gt;if the chipset is supported&lt;/em&gt;. &lt;strong&gt;However, this is rather dangerous, in that, without knowing what is already on there, it could brick your board.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can get an image of the existing firmware, then it wouldn't be so risky as you could then just reinstate the old firmware and set the printer back to its original state. However, given the state of the printer's support, such an image could be difficult to find, unless the manufacturers, or dealers, were contacted directly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It might be possible to get an image, or hex file, of the existing firmware from the board, that you could save for future reflashing. For example, &lt;em&gt;if the board is Arduino based&lt;/em&gt;, then you could use &lt;code&gt;avrdude&lt;/code&gt;, see &lt;a href=&quot;https://forum.arduino.cc/t/how-to-download-the-current-code-from-an-arduino-board/82352&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;how to download the current code from an arduino board?&lt;/a&gt;. For example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;&amp;quot;C:\arduino-1.0\hardware\tools\avrdude -p m328p -C C:\arduino-1.0\hardware\tools\avrdude.conf -c arduino -D -P COM5 -U flash:r:output.bin:r&amp;quot;&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although it might be a bit of a pain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Poor support&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You apparently have to use proprietary software for this printer. Presumably you have already installed the Windows software required to use this printer, on your PC. If you don't have a PC running Windows then you might be stuck. Even though the manual states that OS X is supported , there isn't any OS X software provided.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Apparently Moira and Cura are provided in the package as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.u-buy.jp/en/product/BTPPIM4-frankensbox-fx-800-3d-printer-wi-fi-compact-quiet-accurate-plug-and-play-simplicity-black&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this page&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.amazon.com/ask/questions/asin/B07QKVCXJQ/1/ref=ask_ql_psf_ql_hza?sort=SUBMIT_DATE&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this page&lt;/a&gt;, Moria is said to be firmware, but that would seem to be incorrect, and is in fact a desktop application (like Cura):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Question: Where can i get firmware?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Answer: Cura is a good one to use or you can use the manufacturers&#xA;firmware Moria. You'll have to look up Dedibot Moria. Also if you plug the SD card from the machine into your PC you can also download Moria or Cura from it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From their &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.frankensbox.com/support/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;support page&lt;/a&gt; (which Google throws up large malware warnings about because the security certificate for this website has expired):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Downloads&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Download the latest Frankensbox fx-800 3D Printer software for&#xA;Windows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;64-bit: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.frankensbox.com/downloads/Frankensbox_V3.0.9_x64.exe&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Frankensbox_V3.0.9_x64.exe&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;32-bit: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.frankensbox.com/downloads/Frankensbox_V3.0.9_x86.exe&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Frankensbox_V3.0.9_x86.exe&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unsure which version to use? In Windows Search, type “about your PC”.&#xA;Look under “Device specifications” to see your System type.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Installation&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Before installing the above software, it is recommended first to power on the printer and physically connect it to your PC using the&#xA;included USB cable. Windows will recognize the device and install the&#xA;appropriate drivers.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Install the Frankensbox software, along with any associated files. If Windows Defender or similar anti-virus programs appear, select&#xA;“More info” then select “Run anyway”. Also select “Yes” to User&#xA;Account Control, if needed.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Upon launching the software, select “DF3” as the printer model, if needed.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You should now see the main printing screen, with the printer status indicator at the bottom showing “Connected”.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Now it’s time to load the filament. First, remove the top cover by turning it slightly counter-clockwise. Next, feed a cleanly-cut end of&#xA;the filament into the printer through the feeding hole at the bottom&#xA;of the filament tray. Pull about 6 inches of filament through the&#xA;hole. While holding the filament with your left hand, squeeze the&#xA;spring on the extruder with your right hand. Now feed the filament&#xA;straight down into the hole at the top of the extruder. Proceed once&#xA;you are able to feed an inch or more of filament downward into the&#xA;white tube.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Close the printer door, and select Settings at the right of the top toolbar. Now select the Change Materials tab and select Feed Material.&#xA;Select OK to feed material. The printer will now heat up (to appx&#xA;220C), and begin to feed filament through the extruder, and down to&#xA;the nozzle. Click OK when feeding has succeeded. Wait several seconds&#xA;for cooling, then remove any loose material that was extruded.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Under the Machine Control tab, select Leveling Start. The default distance should be adequate for now. Once auto-leveling is completed&#xA;(appx 1 minute), click OK.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It would seem that as this is a printer aimed at beginners, perhaps they don't want you to access the firmware. However, there may be a setting or menu within the proprietary application that allows you to see the firmware version.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The support page is shockingly bad, with only the information being shown is the quoted text above. The reviews that I have seen, from experienced users of 3D printers, are quite damning as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4762" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2021-09-29T05:54:08.453" LastActivityDate="2021-09-29T05:54:08.453" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18143" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18105" CreationDate="2021-09-26T10:28:15.370" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The top image looks as if the (top) layer(s) are &lt;strong&gt;under-extruding&lt;/strong&gt;, the walls don't appear to be suffering from the same problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The following image from a recent PETG print is typical for an FDM product. The deposited lines need to touch (actually, slightly overlapping, but the slicer will take care of that) each other:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/g83N2.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/g83N2.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will see texture (especially when there is a non uniform surface, e.g. with holes, and without an option as monotonic fill in Cura 4.11 or similar disabled), but the lines need to touch each other, you may not see the layer beneath.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are various reasons for this to happen, for instance: under-extruding because of speed or temperature issues or positioning accuracy. The walls seem to closely adhere, so this may find the cause in  slicing parameters for the filling in of the layer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-09-26T19:54:42.463" LastActivityDate="2021-09-26T19:54:42.463" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18144" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-09-26T17:41:36.840" Score="2" ViewCount="83" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to figure out how to automatically extract the part after it was printed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of the ideas is to wait until the bed get cooled enough (let's say to 40-50 °C, usually the part can be just slide of at this bed temperature) and turn on the powerful fan blowing off the part to a tray or something.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this setup feasible?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm printing with ABS on an opal glass.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19035" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2021-11-13T09:39:36.433" LastActivityDate="2021-11-13T23:56:29.297" Title="Is it possible to extract printed part with a fan?" Tags="|automation|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18146" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-09-26T20:25:29.427" Score="1" ViewCount="629" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an Ender 3 with a 32-bits version 4.2.2 controller board (5 weeks old, &amp;lt;10 prints).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a video of what it does during a mesh bed leveling MBL (9 points): &lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/eeyPd-J-YR0?start=0&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I upgraded the firmware to Marlin 2.0.9.1 to get the MBL feature. Did a few short prints, 1-2 h, and everything was fine. When I was printing a 4 h print, sometime after 2 h I got a huge permanent layer shift in X-axis (5 cm) and it started printing mid-air.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unaware of all the possibilities I generated the G-code again and checked belt and bolts for loose parts. Started the print again and this time I got the layer shift way sooner, like 30 minutes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then I started looking online for other solutions.&#xA;I swapped stepper motors and again it was the X-axis. Swapped cables and again it was the X-axis.&#xA;When the stepper was alone at the table with no belt it got the same &amp;quot;holding&amp;quot; that we can see on the video. It does a weird sound like something is holding it. And instead of moving the 10 cm for each point at the MBL it struggles to move 1 cm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When using the &amp;quot;Move X&amp;quot; it goes smoothly with no problems; 0.1 mm, 1 mm, 10 mm all fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried to reduce the &lt;code&gt;DEFAULT_MAX_ACCELERATION&lt;/code&gt; to 300 but nothing changed.&#xA;I also reinstalled the Creality Ender 3 firmware and the problem persists.&#xA;Now when I try to print a simple cube at the middle, it starts printing at the left side and with nasty layer shifts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What could it be? I am running out of hypothesis to test.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31370" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-09-26T21:16:25.183" LastActivityDate="2021-09-29T22:25:01.720" Title="Big permanent layer shifts on X-axis, looks like something is holding the stepper motor but its not" Tags="|creality-ender-3|stepper|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18147" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18135" CreationDate="2021-09-27T18:39:46.283" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The way I get rid of voids, like your triangular shaped voids the slicing program interprets as fill area, is to increase the  number of vertical/perimeter shells (the shells on the side).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bbUdP.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bbUdP.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15075" LastEditorUserId="15075" LastEditDate="2021-09-27T18:54:14.820" LastActivityDate="2021-09-27T18:54:14.820" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18148" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18682" CreationDate="2021-09-27T23:02:39.057" Score="5" ViewCount="181" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikibooks.org/wiki/OpenSCAD_User_Manual/Mathematical_Operators&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;OpenSCAD User Manual's section on operators&lt;/a&gt; does not mention precedence. Quick Web searches found nothing. I assume the usual order of exponentiation, then multiplication, then addition does hold, but how does e.g. a conditional operator or unary minus interact with these? Is there an official document describing the precedence of operators in OpenSCAD?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31386" LastActivityDate="2022-01-03T23:19:48.943" Title="What is the operator precedence in OpenSCAD?" Tags="|openscad|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18149" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18135" CreationDate="2021-09-28T06:33:45.793" Score="3" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Yes you can!&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To have stronger prints you would have to choose the correct direction of filament deposition paths/traces. This answer demonstrates changing the direction of the filament path in Ultimaker Cura slicer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To do this, it requires some tinkering of your model and choosing the correct slicer parameters (decimals aren't allowed in changing the direction in Cura, only integer or round-off degrees).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To recreate the experiment I have created a similar model in &lt;a href=&quot;https://openscad.org/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;OpenSCAD&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;union(){&#xA;    difference(){&#xA;        cube([100, 50, 1],center = true); // outer contour&#xA;        cube([90, 40, 1.1],center = true);  // inner contour&#xA;    }&#xA;    // add 2 cross beams&#xA;    for (i=[-1:2:1]) {&#xA;        // Note:&#xA;        // 26.565051177078 would have been exactly corner to corner, but &#xA;        // decimals aren't allowed in Cura, hence the choice for 26 degrees&#xA;        rotate([0,0,i*26]){ &#xA;            cube([100, 5, 1],center = true);&#xA;        }&#xA;    }&#xA;}&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which gives you:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/F527k.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Rectangle with cross beams&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/F527k.png&quot; alt=&quot;Rectangle with cross beams&quot; title=&quot;Rectangle with cross beams&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Create an STL from the code and load this into Ultimaker Cura slicer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The trick is to direct the deposition of the top/bottom pattern [&lt;code&gt;lines&lt;/code&gt;] and the infill [&lt;code&gt;lines&lt;/code&gt;] in the direction you need (and for infill a high infill percentage). Remember the 26° angle of the cross beams, the definition of Cura line direction is different, so the angle of deposition needs to be ±(90 - 26) = ±64° which is denoted as [64, -64] in the slicer. Note the top and bottom contain 2 layers, the rest is infill. You can also have no infill by selecting very large top/bottom thickness, or, no top/bottom layers and only infill (this answer demonstrates &lt;strong&gt;both options&lt;/strong&gt;, but you could choose just one).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Look at the bottom layer (see slicer settings on the right):&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/72Gbu.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Bottom layer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/72Gbu.png&quot; alt=&quot;Bottom layer&quot; title=&quot;Bottom layer&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The second layer looks like:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XfdHA.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Second layer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XfdHA.png&quot; alt=&quot;Second layer&quot; title=&quot;Second layer&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First infill layer:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yY10h.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;First infill layer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yY10h.png&quot; alt=&quot;First infill layer&quot; title=&quot;First infill layer&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second infill layer (needed to lower the top layer to a single layer to be able to display this):&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RbtzN.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Second infill layer (needed to lower the top layer to a single layer to be able to display this)&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RbtzN.png&quot; alt=&quot;Second infill layer&quot; title=&quot;Second infill layer (needed to lower the top layer to a single layer to be able to display this)&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As seen by the sliced layers, you can have an alternating pattern where the filament path is continuous for each cross-beam every other layer. This should increase the load (tension) the beam is able to support opposed to the given pattern in the question body.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-09-29T08:34:44.847" LastActivityDate="2021-09-29T08:34:44.847" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18151" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-09-28T12:57:46.613" Score="2" ViewCount="18670" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have problems with layer widths and uneven outer walls on my 3D prints. Sometimes layers are squeezed and sometimes pushed outside. I noticed that these problems happen when there are retractions on layers. I don't have problems with round and simple objects without changes on layers or where all layers are identical.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wgANn.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Image showing uneven layers&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wgANn.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Image showing uneven layers&quot; title=&quot;Image showing uneven layers&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think that this can be linked with pressure in the nozzle or retraction. It looks like sometimes the pressure is too high and it's pushing too much filament and sometimes it's too low and it's not pushing enough filament. In this picture, layers in the first circle are squished in and it looks like there is not enough filament being pushed from the nozzle. In the second circle layer is pushed out and is wider than other layers. Looks like there is not enough filament being extruded at the start of the layer and too much being extruded at the end.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eTbfq.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Image showing two areas: one with layer pushed in, and one with layer pushed out&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eTbfq.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Image showing two areas: one with layer pushed in, and one with layer pushed out&quot; title=&quot;Image showing two areas: one with layer pushed in, and one with layer pushed out&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This problem happens always on the same layers, where there are some retractions on these layers. I tried to print the same objects multiple times and it always occurs on the same layers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UIP6a.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Image showing squished in layers&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UIP6a.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Image showing squished in layers&quot; title=&quot;Image showing squished in layers&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GyHLJ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Image showing squished out layers&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GyHLJ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Image showing squished out layers&quot; title=&quot;Image showing squished out layers&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What have I did to fix this problem:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;calibrated e-steps and slicer flow,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;tightened belts,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;different slicers (Cura, PrusaSlicer),&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;different filaments (e.g. PrusamentPLA),&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;disabled combing in slicer,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;printed with and without infills,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;different retraction distance (from 3 mm to 8 mm),&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;different retraction speeds (from 20 mm/s to 80 mm/s),&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;different retraction accelerations (from 500 to 1500),&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;different hotend temperatures (from 200 °C to 230 °C),&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;slow printing speed (up to 15 mm/s),&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;calibrated K-factor (also tried many values from 0.0 to 2.0),&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;calibrated junction deviation (also tried many values from 0.0 to 0.3),&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;printed with and without cooling.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think, that disabling coasting and changes in retraction settings helped a little, but not too much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My setup:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ender 5, SKR mini E3 V1.2&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Capricorn PTFE Bowden tube,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;printing with PLA, but this problem also occurs with PETG.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The most similar issue I've found is this question, &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/q/10738/4762&quot;&gt;Inconsistent Layer Issues&lt;/a&gt;, but this didn't resolve my problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;How can I get rid of inconsistency in layers widths and get smoother outer walls?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I calibrated K-factor with &lt;a href=&quot;https://marlinfw.org/tools/lin_advance/k-factor.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;K-factor Calibration Pattern&lt;/a&gt; and discovered that lines are always thicker after retraction at the start of the line and thinner at the end of the line. Then I generated and printed test files to confirm this. My lines are always thicker at the start of the line and they get thinner later. This is the problem presented in the second picture.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I printed 3 cubes (dimensions of a cube: X=0.2 mm, Y=100 mm, Z=10 mm). This is the result.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UFWb8.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UFWb8.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Result of printing 3 cubes (X:0.2 mm, Y:100 mm, Z:10 mm)&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the best representation of my problem. The order of printing was as follows: 1 -&amp;gt; 2 -&amp;gt; 3 -&amp;gt; 4 -&amp;gt; 5 -&amp;gt; 6 -&amp;gt; 1 -&amp;gt; 2 etc. There are under extrusions at the end of the second and third line (points 4 and 6) and under extrusion at the start of the first line (point 1). These under extrusions are before (points 4 and 6) and after (point 1) travel moves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What can cause this problem?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27865" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-09-30T21:21:33.687" LastActivityDate="2023-09-25T14:58:23.140" Title="Inconsistent layer widths and uneven outer walls" Tags="|print-quality|troubleshooting|extrusion|retraction|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18152" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18151" CreationDate="2021-09-28T15:36:20.533" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;That kind of issues can be related to multiple causes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Heated bed operated in &amp;quot;bang bang&amp;quot; mode (heater on until set temp reached, turned off until set temp minus threshold is reached, and so on), which causes periodic expansion and contraction. &lt;em&gt;It is solved by using PID algorithm for bed heating&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The slicer is set with a minimum layer time and the part is not big, resulting in a lower extrusion speed for smaller layers, and higher extrusion speed for larger layers (of course up to the value set in the slicer). When you have a Bowden system with single gear (like Enders do), the extrusion is not linear: the more you ask, the bigger the gap between what you ask and what you get. See this (orange line, from &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.cnckitchen.com/blog/testing-bimetallic-heat-breaks&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Testing bimetallic heat breaks&lt;/a&gt;):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Sx7pD.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Flow rate and speed&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Sx7pD.png&quot; alt=&quot;Flow rate and speed&quot; title=&quot;Flow rate and speed&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In other words, slower (smaller) layers extrude more plastic and look fatter. &lt;em&gt;The way to solve is to get a dual drive extruder and by improving the quality of the hotend, for example by installing a bimetallic heat break (see grey line above).&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In your case, image 1 and 2 appear to be related to variable extrusion, and image 3 to bed heating.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2338" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2021-09-29T03:31:59.083" LastActivityDate="2021-09-29T03:31:59.083" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18153" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18151" CreationDate="2021-09-29T00:26:00.563" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I noticed that these problems happen when there are retractions on layers. I don't have problems with round and simple objects without changes on layers or where all layers are identical.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Based on the above, this is not a heat related problem. It's likely inconsistent amounts of material lost from the nozzle just prior to the affected walls. This could be due to oozing during travel without retraction (make sure combing is either off or has a &amp;quot;Max Comb Distance With No Retrace&amp;quot; set very low, &amp;lt; 1 mm) or due to inconsistently unsupported infill structure. One cause for the latter is discussed on &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/Ultimaker/CuraEngine/issues/1411&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this issue report I filed for Cura&lt;/a&gt;, though it could happen in other ways as well. This is particularly bad with bowden extruders; ever since I switched to direct drive it mostly went away. But to avoid it with bowden, I had to turn off zig-zaggify infill and use only infill patterns where each layer fully supports the one above it (e.g. triangles).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2021-09-29T00:26:00.563" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18155" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18156" CreationDate="2021-09-29T12:09:51.647" Score="2" ViewCount="7057" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am printing Benchies at high speed, I successfully printed one at 300 mm/s. If I set the speed to 400 mm/s, the Y axis begins shifting around. This is usually accompanied by a banging sound.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition, the extruder motor occasionally clicks. When it clicks, the filament shoots back out a little bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Print settings:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Infill: 100 %&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hotend: 200 °C&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bed: 60 °C&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Material: PLA&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Infill: Lines&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Walls: 2&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Top/bottom layers: 2&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Speed: 400 mm/s&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Jerk: 400 mm/s&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Acceleration: 1000000&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am running custom Marlin-based firmware on the stock mainboard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The printer shakes my desk when printing like this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28485" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-09-29T12:20:23.380" LastActivityDate="2021-10-07T00:02:47.797" Title="Creality Ender 3: Layer shifting at high speeds" Tags="|creality-ender-3|fdm|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18156" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18155" CreationDate="2021-09-29T12:37:58.117" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;TL;DR: Don't do that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Detailed answer: You need motion limit parameters that actually make physical sense, and firmware capable of executing a motion plan according to them. Your jerk and acceleration settings absolutely don't. Marlin's whole implementation of jerk is wacky (note: modern Marlin versions don't even use it but an alternative they call &amp;quot;junction deviation&amp;quot; instead) and likely to cause problems above very low values; I never was able to take it above 25 or so on Marlin without layer shifts. Acceleration is dependent on the stepper motor torque and the mass you'll be accelerating. For the Y axis, that's the bed, and it has enough mass you won't accelerate it above 12000 mm/s² or so, much less the requested 1 km/s² plus near-infinite acceleration from the extreme near-instantaneous 400 mm/s velocity change (&amp;quot;jerk&amp;quot;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The speed of 400 mm/s is achievable if you don't do it instantaneously. Stepper motors begin to rapidly lose torque beyond a certain speed due to limits on how fast the magnetic field can build up and be reversed, which has to happen for each step. &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.daycounter.com/Calculators/Stepper-Motor-Calculator.phtml&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;This calculator&lt;/a&gt; can compute the limits if you know the properties of your motor. For the Ender 3 Y axis motor, the limit is around 425 mm/s or so if I'm remembering right.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For actual print speed, though, the hotend and extruder cannot keep up with anything nearly that high. 150 mm/s is about the limit with that hotend, and it might even be lower with a stock extruder. Fortunately, Benchy is mostly acceleration-bound, not top-speed-bound, so if you can get your acceleration profile right, you can still print quite fast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now the next limit you'll hit is Marlin. Marlin is... not good at high speeds and accelerations. Often the layer shifts you hit with Marlin aren't even physical limits but Marlin bugs. If you want to go fast, you need Klipper, not only because it lacks these step timing bugs, but because you need its Input Shaper feature to keep the high acceleration from tearing your printer apart (literally, vibrating all the screws out!).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2021-09-29T12:37:58.117" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18157" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18135" CreationDate="2021-09-29T18:28:57.627" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Have a look at &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/comments/pt80ap/new_3d_printing_slicer_geared_towards_highspeed/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Chisel&lt;/a&gt; infills there are very strength optimised, limitation is currently that they must be single line width, but multiple-lines thick infill will be supported soon.&#xA;After that, it's very simple, basically setting double corrugated infill with corrugation size 1 for your rectangle model.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31405" LastActivityDate="2021-09-29T18:28:57.627" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18158" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2736" CreationDate="2021-09-29T19:51:21.290" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;This software &lt;em&gt;may&lt;/em&gt; be of some use to you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whilst looking into &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/q/18141/4762&quot;&gt;software/firmware for a Frankensbox FX-800&lt;/a&gt;, I came across this document &lt;a href=&quot;http://dedibot.com/file/download/3926bbd3566247d6a80d79dfbff45196&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;For medical use - Dedicated series 3D printer&lt;/a&gt;, on the Dedibot website, which on page 4 states the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Mqkw9.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;MIR - scanned text&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Mqkw9.png&quot; alt=&quot;MIR - scanned text&quot; title=&quot;MIR - scanned text&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The relevant part (in text form) is this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It can be used to read DICOM format CT/MRI/Micro CT/Micro MRI/Industrial CT images and non-DICOM common image formats BMP/TIFF and so on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4762" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2021-09-29T19:58:42.683" LastActivityDate="2021-09-29T19:58:42.683" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18159" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18146" CreationDate="2021-09-29T22:25:01.720" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is an issue I have had when doing maintenance on my printer. If your belt is too tight, it will cause resistance to the motor turning. In addition, you may not have properly set the motor current (tiny trimpot next to each motor driver).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28485" LastActivityDate="2021-09-29T22:25:01.720" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18160" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18096" CreationDate="2021-09-29T22:40:20.207" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can also have a look at &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/janherich/chisel&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Chisel&lt;/a&gt;, it basically does what you want - creates G-code directly from parametric patches (Bezier, Nurbs), you have fine control over extrusion width in every part of your model (perimeter, infill...).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's optimised for efficient structural panels so currently always expects 2 faces + infill configuration (could be none for hollow structure), but I will very soon add features like specifying arbitrary number patches with no infill, that way you will have full freedom to design part however you like.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31405" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-09-30T02:53:35.397" LastActivityDate="2021-09-30T02:53:35.397" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18161" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-09-30T03:18:31.880" Score="3" ViewCount="1406" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Cura, there is a setting called: &lt;code&gt;Initial Layer Line Width&lt;/code&gt;. What is its equivalent in PrusaSlicer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18905" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-09-30T03:53:01.233" LastActivityDate="2021-09-30T13:01:01.733" Title="Initial Layer Line width in PrusaSlicer" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|prusaslicer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18162" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18161" CreationDate="2021-09-30T06:26:58.177" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you look in &lt;strong&gt;Print Settings&lt;/strong&gt; &amp;gt; &lt;strong&gt;Advanced&lt;/strong&gt; tab, you will find &lt;code&gt;First Layer&lt;/code&gt; under &lt;strong&gt;Extrusion Width&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, do not assume that every option in Cura will have an equivalent setting in other slicers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3953" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-09-30T13:01:01.733" LastActivityDate="2021-09-30T13:01:01.733" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18163" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-09-30T10:55:52.950" Score="2" ViewCount="919" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm printing small detail on Prusa Mini with Prusament PLA @ default 215 °C.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Model was sliced with the PrusaSlicer with default 0.15 mm quality profile.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem is that when the printer is making the bridging infill it does not stick it properly to the perimeter layer. Making the place where head turned back hanging.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What may be the issue and how to prevent it?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/f3ys4.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/f3ys4.png&quot; alt=&quot;problematic tool patch&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31415" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-09-30T21:48:34.503" LastActivityDate="2021-09-30T21:48:34.503" Title="Bridge infill does not stick to the perimeter" Tags="|prusaslicer|prusa-mini|bridging|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18164" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18163" CreationDate="2021-09-30T14:08:00.273" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my experience, the ends of bridges must always be supported by the layer below them — not the perimeter of the same layer. Add a feature to your model which makes the area under the end of the bridge solid, not a gap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10321" LastActivityDate="2021-09-30T14:08:00.273" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18167" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10785" CreationDate="2021-09-30T22:30:07.540" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Something strange happened to me (Ender 3 with CR Touch), changed my firmware and stringing happened. I was slicing with Cura and went through three days of breaking my head. You know how I fixed it? Simple, I looked for a pre-made retraction temp. And guess what? It was the slicer all along. I changed to Simplify3D and all of my stringing disappeared. I can't explain what happened, but Cura decided to flop on me. maybe look for pre-sliced G-code tests online, hope you can fix your problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31420" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-10-01T13:07:26.427" LastActivityDate="2021-10-01T13:07:26.427" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18168" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-10-01T06:45:37.527" Score="1" ViewCount="116" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to make a light titanium part which will be very visible and 3D printed. Can I force Fusion to use only struts like this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/67qxZ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;F1 brake pedals&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/67qxZ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;F1 brake pedals&quot; title=&quot;F1 brake pedals&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I realize it will limit the performance but in this application aesthetics are important.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31422" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-10-06T08:51:32.127" LastActivityDate="2021-10-16T21:45:41.603" Title="Can Fusion 360 optimize topology using only struts and triangles?" Tags="|3d-models|fusion360|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18169" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10785" CreationDate="2021-10-01T09:31:58.370" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The way to optimise retraction is to use &lt;a href=&quot;http://retractioncalibration.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this retraction optimisation tool&lt;/a&gt;, which tests various retraction distances and speeds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remember to perform this calibration AFTER you set pressure or linear advance, which has a higher priority.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4D6Gr.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4D6Gr.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will be able to pick the settings which work the best for that filament brand and type. You will have to do it again if you switch material or brand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2338" LastEditorUserId="2338" LastEditDate="2021-10-12T10:11:50.063" LastActivityDate="2021-10-12T10:11:50.063" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18170" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-10-01T09:45:58.913" Score="0" ViewCount="383" Body="&lt;p&gt;My Ender 5 plus developed a strange issue. The printer is always moving the bed a couple of mm from the nozzle. I have releveled the bed a couple of times, that does not solve it. I did also a manual adjustment, e.g. started the print and then adjust the Z-axis until the nozzle is at the right height to get the layer at the bed. When I stop the print and then restart the print, it set the nozzle at the same previous distance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It did store the Z-axis offset, but somehow it is being ignored. I have checked the firmware version which is 1.70.2. That firmware came with the printer and seems to be a later version than what is available on the Creality website. I did not make any modifications to the printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31424" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2021-10-02T20:09:01.863" LastActivityDate="2021-10-02T20:09:01.863" Title="Ender 5 plus - leveling" Tags="|troubleshooting|bed-leveling|bltouch|creality-ender-5|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18173" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18180" CreationDate="2021-10-02T19:26:16.673" Score="-1" ViewCount="585" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have used PLA and PLA+ so far and I know that it can use ABS and PETG but I'm curious what other materials could I in theory use with my Ender 3?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is a stock configuration, for the time being at least until after Christmas, and my grandfather and I have designed an enclosure to build together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31152" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-10-02T23:31:35.797" LastActivityDate="2021-10-03T00:03:46.020" Title="What else can I print with my stock Ender 3" Tags="|creality-ender-3|material|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2021-10-03T07:52:25.363" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18175" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18173" CreationDate="2021-10-02T22:01:06.450" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Consider &lt;strong&gt;Wood PLA&lt;/strong&gt;.  It is similar to PLA but more abrasive, and with different happy-temperatures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Especially useful if you want to paint your output, or if you have woodworking skills/tools then prints can be (somewhat) worked and incorporated into larger projects.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Imagine printing detailed &lt;strong&gt;scallions&lt;/strong&gt; or &lt;strong&gt;crenellations&lt;/strong&gt; or &lt;strong&gt;gargoyles&lt;/strong&gt; for a spooky dollhouse - the main walls would use an inordinate amount of filament whereas sheet-wood is cheaper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12956" LastActivityDate="2021-10-02T22:01:06.450" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18176" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18173" CreationDate="2021-10-02T22:17:08.703" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A (pre-2019) stock ender3 can't print tpu because of a 3mm gap between the driver in the extruder and the bowden tube.  But there are multiple adapter plates on thingiverse that close this gap, and then tpu works fine (with some tuning).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I got tpu to work for small parts even without the adapter plate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28397" LastEditorUserId="28397" LastEditDate="2021-10-03T00:00:02.760" LastActivityDate="2021-10-03T00:00:02.760" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18177" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-10-02T22:57:08.773" Score="0" ViewCount="24" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm curious as to whether there's an easier and/or more effective way to smooth/finish my FDM prints. I've read about some online but I'd like a second opinion. I'm mostly using PLA and PLA+.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31152" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-10-02T23:26:12.157" LastActivityDate="2021-10-02T23:26:12.157" Title="Is there a good or rather better way to finish/smooth FDM prints?" Tags="|fdm|smoothing|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2021-10-18T08:51:03.687" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18178" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13737" CreationDate="2021-10-02T23:21:34.360" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd suggest running through basic maintenance.  Check&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is the nozzle clean/unblocked?  If not clean it out&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is the nozzle worn?   If so, replace it&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is the bowden tube okay in the hot end ?  If not, replace, or at least shorten it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Are your e-steps calibrated correctly?&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;...etc&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also consider whatever mods were made, and whether they help or not.  There's a chance something there was sub-optimal, which is why it was sold off by the previous owner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12956" LastActivityDate="2021-10-02T23:21:34.360" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18179" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18187" CreationDate="2021-10-02T23:52:18.500" Score="2" ViewCount="101" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am thinking of using it for a project or two but am still somewhat new to this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, I was wondering what are the advantages and disadvantages of Eryone's 15% metal PLA and X% metal PLA in general?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31152" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-10-02T23:57:06.547" LastActivityDate="2021-10-04T01:58:55.187" Title="What are the advantages and disadvantages of Eryone's 15% metal PLA compared to other PLA?" Tags="|creality-ender-3|pla|material|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18180" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18173" CreationDate="2021-10-03T00:03:46.020" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;PLA is just about the only common material that prints &lt;em&gt;well&lt;/em&gt; on the stock Ender 3. The extruder lacks proper grip and/or torque at the hob for printing PETG well, and printing TPU with a bowden tube is very slow and error-prone. All of these should work if you're willing to go very slow (20-30 mm/s top) though. ABS and ASA are probably doable, at least with a simple enclosure, but I don't have any experience with them. Most other common materials need significantly higher temperatures than the hotend's safe limit of 250 ˚C.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However there are a couple uncommon materials that should print well:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;PVB (polyvinyl butyral, probably best known as Polymaker Polysmooth). It prints at temperatures similar to PLA, but is soluble (and therefore smoothable) in isopropyl alcohol (IPA).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;PLC (polycaprolactone) is a very-low-temperature material most commonly used in &amp;quot;3D pens&amp;quot;. In fact the temperatures for it are so low (70-140 ˚C) that you'll likely need to send special gcode commands to disable the &amp;quot;minimum extrude temperature&amp;quot; in the printer's firmware or flash firmware without that limitation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, I guess I should mention that POM (Acetal/Delrin) is within the range of the stock hotend and extruder's capabilities, but is utter hell to print. It doesn't adhere to anything but itself, and warps badly as it cools.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2021-10-03T00:03:46.020" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18181" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-10-03T03:08:30.477" Score="0" ViewCount="389" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've changed SD cards, printed from USB connection, upgraded/reloaded firmware and attempted using different software packages.  Nothing has worked yet.  When connected via USB, I get a &amp;quot;disconnected&amp;quot; error after a few minutes into the print.  Also, the LED lights now either don't work at all or will randomly go out after a few minutes - usually indicating that the print failure is imminent.  I've had the printer for about 4 years without issues.  I don't want to replace the motherboard only to find out it's the power source or vice versa.  Help?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31432" LastActivityDate="2022-01-12T16:08:37.067" Title="My FlashForge Creator Pro has started to spontaneously restart mid-print, begin vibrating, printing along one axis repeatedly, etc" Tags="|electronics|hardware|flashforge-creator|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18182" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18066" CreationDate="2021-10-03T14:26:42.347" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I finally found the problem. The threaded rod of the Z axis was not mounted tight enough to the motor. This resulted in the slipping of the Z axis by large accelerations of the motor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So... tightening the threaded rod connector socket and redoing the leveling solved the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31153" LastActivityDate="2021-10-03T14:26:42.347" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18183" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-10-03T15:33:30.710" Score="1" ViewCount="128" Body="&lt;p&gt;So, I'm new at 3D printing and I've tried cleaning my new 3D printer's steel heated bed with Isopropyl Alcohol and it left some very nasty white marks all over the bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried cleaning it off with water and dish soap but it didn't work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there anyway to clean it?&#xA;Is my bed ruined?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm using the stock Biqu-B1 steel heated bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31436" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-10-03T15:46:40.383" LastActivityDate="2021-10-03T15:46:40.383" Title="Steel heatbed - White stains after cleaning with IPA" Tags="|heated-bed|bigtreetech|biqu-b1|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18184" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13634" CreationDate="2021-10-03T21:59:29.193" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Looking at the first image, it appears that the nozzle is a little too close to the glass build plate. You clearly see that the nozzle scrapes over the glass and filament is deposited on either side of the nozzle. Re-level the bed with a (thicker) piece of paper or with a feeler gauge. Alternatively, increase the height of the nozzle by re-defining the height or add an extra Z raise in the slicer (see question: &amp;quot;&lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/13330/how-can-i-add-an-offset-to-the-first-layer-to-increase-clearance/13334&quot;&gt;How can I add an offset to the first layer to increase clearance?&lt;/a&gt;&amp;quot;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2021-10-03T21:59:29.193" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18185" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13629" CreationDate="2021-10-03T22:04:38.517" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Without images of the problem it is difficult to diagnose, but, the described symptoms sounds as if the nozzle is too close to the bed. If the nozzle is too close to the bed, and the extruder not strong enough, the filament flow is very limited due to pressure caused by a very small opening between the nozzle and the bed. Skipping of the extruder may wear out (grind) the filament and stop extrusion altogether.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Re-level the bed with a (thicker) piece of paper or with a feeler gauge. Alternatively, increase the height of the nozzle by re-defining the height or add an extra Z raise in the slicer (see question: &amp;quot;&lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/13330/how-can-i-add-an-offset-to-the-first-layer-to-increase-clearance/13334&quot;&gt;How can I add an offset to the first layer to increase clearance?&lt;/a&gt;&amp;quot;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-10-04T08:15:54.730" LastActivityDate="2021-10-04T08:15:54.730" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18186" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-10-03T22:05:09.753" Score="4" ViewCount="145" Body="&lt;p&gt;I keep looking around for 3D scanning software but can't find anything I like. Any suggestions? I'm more looking for a free app so I can use my android phone, but am open to desktop based solutions too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31152" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2021-11-08T03:40:16.787" LastActivityDate="2022-01-13T05:02:15.297" Title="Are there any free scanning programs available?" Tags="|software|scanning|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ClosedDate="2022-01-17T22:03:29.730" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18187" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18179" CreationDate="2021-10-04T01:27:56.957" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Advantage: It should print like regular PLA at PLA temperatures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Disadvantage: the embedded metal particles are abrasive and will widen your standard brass nozzle over time.  The fix is to use a hardened steel nozzle, or for the extreme, there are options like ruby-tipped nozzles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Advantage: It should look &amp;quot;metallic&amp;quot; in a way that is more durable than a paint-on topcoat finish, with a depth instead of a surface-only appearance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Disadvantage: I can't find the product you're referencing.  The nearest I can find is &lt;a href=&quot;https://x3d.com.au/collections/eryone/products/shiny-silk-metal-rainbow-pla-1-75mm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Metal Silk Rainbow PLA&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt;  and &lt;a href=&quot;https://eryone3d.com/products/advanced-silk-pla&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Ultra Silk PLA&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That latter one is available in gold, bronze, copper, silver, etc. which sounds like metal, but only printing some will show you in person what it looks like.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See also &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/14239/additional-mods-for-printing-metal-filled-filament-with-ender-3-v2&quot;&gt;Additional mods for printing metal filled filament with Ender 3 V2?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12956" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-10-04T01:58:55.187" LastActivityDate="2021-10-04T01:58:55.187" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18188" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-10-04T02:52:24.357" Score="1" ViewCount="71" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am considering making modifications to my Ender 3 so I can print metal-infused PLA, but I'm somewhat unclear on how it works and how the PLA is supposed to be separated from the metal content in post-processing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31152" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2022-01-12T07:21:30.130" LastActivityDate="2022-01-12T07:21:30.130" Title="How do metal infused filaments work?" Tags="|pla|post-processing|material|metal-printing|filled-pla|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18189" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-10-04T07:16:06.150" Score="4" ViewCount="911" Body="&lt;p&gt;Suppose I have the X, Y, and Z coordinates (either in a list or a function z = f(x,y)) that defines a shape as the one provided and I want to 3D print it with a solid bottom, is there an easy way to do this? If not, how can a functionally well-defined shape be put into a 3D modeling software like FreeCAD?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5bcSU.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;3D graph&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5bcSU.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;3D graph&quot; title=&quot;3D graph&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31441" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-10-29T13:04:41.977" LastActivityDate="2021-11-02T21:11:44.973" Title="How can I convert a mathematically defined shape into a 3D printable G-code file?" Tags="|3d-models|cad|freecad|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18190" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18186" CreationDate="2021-10-04T11:03:11.417" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I personally use &lt;a href=&quot;https://scann3d.it/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;SCANN3D&lt;/a&gt;. It is available on Android but I don't know if it is for desktop too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31443" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-10-04T13:08:00.313" LastActivityDate="2021-10-04T13:08:00.313" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18191" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18196" CreationDate="2021-10-04T11:15:33.853" Score="2" ViewCount="2118" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been printing toy cars for about a month now and my Ender 3 has stopped extruding plastic even when I insert filament, it has been about a day since it stopped working. Is there any tips for getting it working again?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried manual feeding which worked.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31443" LastEditorUserId="31443" LastEditDate="2021-10-05T12:05:35.533" LastActivityDate="2021-10-08T12:33:50.750" Title="Printer has stopped extruding" Tags="|creality-ender-3|extruder|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18193" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18189" CreationDate="2021-10-04T17:02:04.450" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;For stuff like this, OpenSCAD is your friend. There are several different approaches you could take:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Generate an image file with grayscale color representing the height of the function on an XY grid, and use the &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikibooks.org/wiki/OpenSCAD_User_Manual/Other_Language_Features#Surface&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;code&gt;surface&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/a&gt; feature to import it as a heightmap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Write the function as a mathematical expression in OpenSCAD language, and write a module to generate a &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikibooks.org/wiki/OpenSCAD_User_Manual/Primitive_Solids#polyhedron&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;code&gt;polyhedron&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/a&gt; by iterating over a sufficiently fine coordiante grid, sampling the function, and producing points and triangles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Use a library someone else has already written for this purpose. I'm not aware of specific ones but pretty sure there are quite a few.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2021-10-04T17:02:04.450" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18194" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18487" CreationDate="2021-10-04T19:56:35.343" Score="2" ViewCount="380" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am making this &lt;a href=&quot;https://cad.onshape.com/documents/97c0bff4438703fb46eab336/w/f9d9fd6b8648b1738356fc17/e/875b5b62d7deed4076b9d8c3?renderMode=0&amp;amp;uiState=615b591d20bf03323f3e1f55&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;dog feeder&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My goal is to 3D print it using an Ender 3 V2. I am using Cura to slice it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I slice it, though, Cura does not see the Top part (Dispenser box) as a solid piece. And when I am slicing it, it does not create an infill for the ramp. I have tried using the infill support option and setting the infill overhang angle to 0, but it still does not create infill support on the ramp. Here are some prints:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pDApW.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Notice that there is no infill under the ramp#1&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pDApW.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Notice that there is no infill under the ramp#1&quot; title=&quot;Notice that there is no infill under the ramp#1&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/74iEy.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Notice that there is no infill under the ramp#2&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/74iEy.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Notice that there is no infill under the ramp#2&quot; title=&quot;Notice that there is no infill under the ramp#2&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Notice that there is no infill under the ramp.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do I make Cura understand that this is a solid piece?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31447" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2021-10-05T04:38:11.063" LastActivityDate="2021-12-02T06:15:09.293" Title="How do I fix infill support in Cura?" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|slicing|infill|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18196" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18191" CreationDate="2021-10-05T08:20:05.250" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You need to figure out what is not working&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is the hotend getting hot?   If not, melted filament won't come out.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is the nozzle clogged?   In your toolkit was a bit of thin wire for poking into the nozzle - try that and see what happens.&lt;br&gt; You may need to heat the hotend, extract the filament, wait for it to cool, remove the bowden tube and push the wire up from below, if the obstruction is too big to come through the 0.4mm nozzle.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is the extruder pushing/feeding filament?  Undo the bowden tube at the top, tell the control panel to extrude and observe if plastic moves.  An Ender3 V2 has the round handle on top, you should see it slowly revolving.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;If you can see the gears turning and the filament is not coming through, try snipping that piece off and inserting a fresh end.  Also clean inside the pushing gears of the extruder, could be simple plastic detris laying about.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Are you having reel problems?  Can you tug on the filament and have the reel turn? If not, it might be binding on the roll, or knotted/tangled.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12956" LastActivityDate="2021-10-05T08:20:05.250" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18197" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18191" CreationDate="2021-10-05T12:06:09.523" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;My comment refuses to upload so I think it’ll be ok if I just put it here:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks this fixed it I had to replace my hot end as the one had broken for some reason but now it is fully working again, thank you so much!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sorry for all the mistakes in formatting, I am new I joined 3 days ago.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31443" LastEditorUserId="31443" LastEditDate="2021-10-07T08:38:08.723" LastActivityDate="2021-10-07T08:38:08.723" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18199" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="970" CreationDate="2021-10-05T15:14:54.180" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;You may not need to adjust the tension, but you may nevertheless want to measure the belt tension, at least to ensure it's not too tight: the shaft on stepper motor has limitations. For example, NEMA 17 may have 30 N maximum tension then the belt is located at 17 mm from the motor face.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In that case, no need to buy a tool, you can use an audio app showing the frequency spectrum and then you pluck the belt. The lowest frequency peak can be related to the tension as explained here:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://benchtopmachineshop.blogspot.com/2019/04/printer-belt-tension.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://benchtopmachineshop.blogspot.com/2019/04/printer-belt-tension.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For GT2 belts and 27 N tension, assuming the distance between belt and motor face is 10 mm, the relation is&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$$f [\text{Hz}] = \frac{28531 \frac{ \text mm}{\text s}}{length [\text{mm}]}$$&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Be aware that by plucking the belt you will excite the higher harmonics more than the base harmonic, therefore identifying the lowest frequency may take some time and multiple tries. You should display the frequency spectrum as &amp;quot;waterfall&amp;quot;. The app &amp;quot;Spectroid&amp;quot; for Android has it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the distance between middle of the belt width and motor face is twice the value assumed (for example, 20 mm instead of 10 mm), the belt tension should be halved (based on an inverse relationship).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For those interested in alternative approaches, &lt;a href=&quot;https://prorifi3d.com/pages/how-to-tune-your-timing-belt&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this page&lt;/a&gt; calculates the belt tension based on the datasheet of the belts, but &lt;strong&gt;it completely ignores the maximum load tolerated by the motors&lt;/strong&gt;. So you can follow their directions but do not exceed the values recommended by the motors. The calculations mentioned there are discussed also on the following video:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/gB8m6_eGShs?start=0&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2338" LastEditorUserId="2338" LastEditDate="2024-02-26T14:26:11.187" LastActivityDate="2024-02-26T14:26:11.187" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18200" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-10-05T15:20:50.813" Score="2" ViewCount="1828" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I pluck the belts of my CoreXY printer, I feel significantly different tension between the two idlers on the back and the tension on the sides, between the gear on the stepper shaft and the idler on the back.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this normal? If not, what could be the cause?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For reference, I'm using this support for the idlers:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OMTPC.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OMTPC.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2338" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-10-05T21:04:07.823" LastActivityDate="2022-01-19T12:22:16.293" Title="Is it normal for belt tension to differ between sides of a CoreXY printer?" Tags="|belt|corexy|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18202" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18200" CreationDate="2021-10-05T16:49:16.860" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are referring to the tension in a single belt, but ar different positions, the tension is everywhere the same. It is one belt, the force/tension is the same in the belt. If the length of the belt is shorter because of a carriage to idler, the plucked sound may differ but the tension is the same.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are referring to different belts, e.g. the top versus the bottom belt, for CoreXY machines, the tension in the two separate belts should be equal to allow equal force pulling the carriage. If uneven, this may lead to incorrect/skew prints or binding of linear bearings (from experience). A typical layout of the mechanism is shown below. Note that there are several solutions for placing the belts; they can be in the same plane (where the belts cross in the back, as depicted below) or have the belt each in their own plane (as in the HyperCube Evolution design as depicted in the image of the question).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NmPKH.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;CoreXY reference mechanism&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NmPKH.png&quot; alt=&quot;CoreXY reference mechanism&quot; title=&quot;CoreXY reference mechanism&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Drawing published by Ilan E. Moyer, taken from &lt;a href=&quot;http://corexy.com/theory.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://corexy.com&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For both options, incorrect belt tension causes for different forces onto the the printhead carriage and result in a torque on the carriage (either in X-Y or in X-Z). E.g. a tight blue belt with a less tight red belt cause a resulting counter-clockwise torque on the carriage in the image below:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lSD6w.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lSD6w.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I use &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2589577&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;a tool (gauge)&lt;/a&gt; to determine the tension to compare both belts and make sure the tension in both is the same:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TZVpg.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Belt tension gauge&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TZVpg.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; title=&quot;Belt tension gauge&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many CoreXY designs can adjust the tension of the belts at the carriage by screws. Some designs feature the stepper in the back and an adjustable pulley in the front.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2022-01-19T12:22:16.293" LastActivityDate="2022-01-19T12:22:16.293" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18203" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18200" CreationDate="2021-10-05T18:16:12.757" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The belts of a CoreXY should be identical in length and tensioned simultaneously to ensure proper operation. Any slack or springiness difference will result in prints that are askew. In that case, where the tension or springiness cannot be removed, the Marlin firmware allows for compensations for skewing as M-Code 852&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M852.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M852.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12857" LastActivityDate="2021-10-05T18:16:12.757" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18204" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18208" CreationDate="2021-10-05T21:02:59.040" Score="2" ViewCount="816" Body="&lt;p&gt;Whenever the printer homes, the nozzle ends up digging into the bed and causing damage. This also happens when I start prints, the first layer is shoving the nozzle into the bed, this happens every time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This only happens when the bed is level. It only stops when I lower the bed completely. And when I do it is too far down and the nozzle is about a centimetre away from the bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I haven't thought much about it until now as I am thinking of replacing the bed because of the damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27273" LastActivityDate="2021-10-06T23:12:31.613" Title="Ender 3 pro Z axis homing" Tags="|creality-ender-3|bed-leveling|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18205" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18200" CreationDate="2021-10-06T13:55:27.050" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The tension of the belts on CoreXY printers, is always the same in both belts. Since they motion system requires coordinated movement of both belts.&#xA;You probably need to re tension them both, also check the length. It needs to be identical.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31466" LastActivityDate="2021-10-06T13:55:27.050" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18206" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-10-06T16:29:57.813" Score="3" ViewCount="444" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an Ender 3 Pro with a 3D printed direct drive extruder on it. After switching to the direct drive, I noticed weird lines and patterns forming. I've tried everything imaginable, besides it getting well slightly better at hiding the imperfections with black filament, it really hasn't gotten any better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have double-checked all bolts, calibrated E-steps, flow, X- Y- Z-axes, tightened all the belts, dried out my brand new filament, etc., and it is still there. I've also noticed that this pretty much only happens on straight walls or smaller models. For example, my mask printed just fine, while these test cubes look like trash. Here are a few pictures of the problem:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MN8Ry.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Example print#1&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MN8Ry.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Example print#1&quot; title=&quot;Example print#1&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jEt9Z.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Example print#2&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jEt9Z.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Example print#2&quot; title=&quot;Example print#2&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SDwMT.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Example print#3&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SDwMT.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Example print#3&quot; title=&quot;Example print#3&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/G4Lx0.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Print settings - Quality&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/G4Lx0.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Print settings - Quality&quot; title=&quot;Print settings - Quality&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ctqfI.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Print settings - Wall&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ctqfI.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Print settings - Wall&quot; title=&quot;Print settings - Wall&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/te1Ql.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Print settings - Speed&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/te1Ql.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Print settings - Speed&quot; title=&quot;Print settings - Speed&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31468" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2021-10-06T17:06:43.597" LastActivityDate="2021-10-06T17:06:43.597" Title="Weird wall patterns on Ender 3 Pro" Tags="|creality-ender-3|print-quality|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18207" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-10-06T18:22:51.557" Score="5" ViewCount="10098" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought an Ender 3 V2 printer and printed successfully with PLA and PLA+. Ender 3 V2 is rated at &amp;lt;= 250 °C but when I set temperature above 200 °C to print to PLA+, I get an error message &amp;quot;Nozzle is too lowperature&amp;quot; and the printer freezes (the term lowperature is actual and not a typo error).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried to raise the temperature gradually. I started at 200 °C and have gone to 205 °C and a little bit more. I started printing and I might get this message again or might not. Also, the temperature seems to change or lower while printing. It is not stable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any suggestions as to what causes this unstable behavior?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Following the above behavior, I was able to raise the temperature to 213 °C and I was printing for 10 minutes or so, then I got the message &amp;quot;thermal runaway&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I managed to capture the event &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/oo0f237iTVo&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31470" LastEditorUserId="31470" LastEditDate="2021-10-10T09:50:20.650" LastActivityDate="2021-12-23T07:06:36.713" Title="Ender 3 V2 error message" Tags="|creality-ender-3|extruder|printer-building|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18208" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18204" CreationDate="2021-10-06T22:29:20.937" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sounds like you have incorrectly set up your machine, specifically the Z offset.&#xA;Or your Z endstop is physically too low and not set up properly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd suggest recalibrating your machine from the start as that would help dial it in as well as potentially solve this issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I recommend following this guide at the &lt;a href=&quot;http://teachingtechyt.github.io/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Teaching Tech 3D Printer Site&lt;/a&gt; - it's extremely good. (there's also a page for troubleshooting different issues including testing your Endstops to confirm they are working)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good Luck. 3D printers can be hella finickity but all in good fun.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25389" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-10-06T23:12:31.613" LastActivityDate="2021-10-06T23:12:31.613" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18209" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18155" CreationDate="2021-10-07T00:02:47.797" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ok, so you are having multiple problems, lets break it down:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the speed you are pushing, it would not be weird to have the Y belt slipping around. Also inertia comes into play, so please, dont do that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What you are mentioning about the filament going out a bit, also makes sense. You are exceeding the max volumetric flowrate for the ender 3. I would recommend going for a higher flow nozzle/Hotend combo.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31466" LastActivityDate="2021-10-07T00:02:47.797" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18210" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-10-07T13:56:26.090" Score="2" ViewCount="7376" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently got an Ender 3 Pro and had a blast with it for the first few days, but then I got greedy for a better print and threw off my calibration with some &amp;quot;upgrades&amp;quot; and ended up with some really nasty elephant's foot. The first 3 mm are all bubbly and uneven as if someone heated it up and squished it slightly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've read the other forums and have made sure my belts are tight, my bed is perfectly level, and my filament is just fine. I've tried using rafts to take the blow from the deformity and that usually helps but even with my initial layer horizontal expansion setting turned to -1, I'm still getting a little bit for flaring on the base layer on the raft.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The upgrades I got were an aluminum extruder housing (single drive) and Capricorn tubing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8TQ6d.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;3D printed calibration cube with elephant's foot&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8TQ6d.png&quot; alt=&quot;3D printed calibration cube with elephant's foot&quot; title=&quot;3D printed calibration cube with elephant's foot&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After addressing the comments, now my corners on bigger prints come up and commonly fail even bed level tests... and the prints that do work (that I do print on a raft) are incredibly weak and break when I pull it off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Furthermore, I’ve been fixing several things like suggested in comments and nothings worked, now for the most part every part I’ve printed that’s  longer then 2 hours has failed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PJQul.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PJQul.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes that is brand new capricorn tubing... the old fittings dug through my old tube and caused the filament to melt in the tube and ruin it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31477" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-11-30T22:25:59.007" LastActivityDate="2021-11-30T22:25:59.007" Title="Ender 3 Pro elephant's foot" Tags="|creality-ender-3|print-quality|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18211" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18210" CreationDate="2021-10-07T20:10:18.103" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The following is from the article &amp;quot;&lt;a href=&quot;https://all3dp.com/2/elephant-s-foot-3d-printing-problem-easy-fixes/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Elephant's Foot - Easy Fixes&lt;/a&gt;&amp;quot; on All3DP.com&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As we’ve explained, elephant’s foot most often occurs as the result of an uncooled first layer. If the  &lt;a href=&quot;https://all3dp.com/2/the-best-printing-temperature-for-different-filaments/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;temperature&lt;/a&gt;  of the print bed is too high, or if there’s insufficient  &lt;a href=&quot;https://all3dp.com/2/3d-printer-fans-do-i-really-need-one/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;cooling&lt;/a&gt;, the first layer may not cool properly, causing elephant’s foot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are a few things to try to reduce or even completely resolve elephant’s foot on your prints:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Level the print bed and adjust your nozzle:&lt;/strong&gt;  Before trying anything else, make sure your printing conditions are ideal. Sometimes elephant’s foot is simply the result of an unleveled build plate or an incorrect nozzle height. These issues both cause the first layer to be squished too far down, forcing it to bulge out. Fortunately, they’re easy to fix, as both  &lt;a href=&quot;https://all3dp.com/2/3d-printer-bed-leveling-step-by-step-tutorial/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;leveling the build plate&lt;/a&gt; and slightly increasing the nozzle height (in your  &lt;a href=&quot;https://all3dp.com/topic/3d-slicer/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;slicer&lt;/a&gt;) are simple and quick.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Lower bed temperature:&lt;/strong&gt;  Incrementally lower the temperature of your bed by 5 °C until it successfully prints without any bulging. If you lower it by more than 20 °C outside the recommended temperature and the problem isn’t getting better, the elephant’s foot is likely to be caused by something else.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Print with a raft:&lt;/strong&gt;  Because the problem exists between the first layer and the bed, a  &lt;a href=&quot;https://all3dp.com/2/3d-printing-raft-when-should-you-use-it/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;raft&lt;/a&gt;  can take the hit for you. This is less of a solution and more of a workaround, but it can be very helpful if, for example, you really need one piece to slot into another.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Add chamfers to your model:&lt;/strong&gt; In some rare cases, elephant’s foot can be extremely difficult to get rid of. Instead of tweaking your printer, it may be easier to simply alter the model. By putting a small 45° chamfer on the bottom edge of the print, the effects of the elephant’s foot can be mitigated.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is also a great YouTube video &amp;quot;Smooth Top Surface and No Elephants Foot Using Cura 4.7.1&amp;quot; from CHEP:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/FH1wUWy7Hjw?start=0&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had a similar problem on my Ender 3 V2 and followed the above information and cured my issues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23193" LastActivityDate="2021-10-07T20:10:18.103" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18212" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15131" CreationDate="2021-10-08T11:26:57.117" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had the same problem. Bought my Ender 3 Pro in July 2021, so not sure if the new or old versions have this problem. I solved the problem slightly differently.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I could not pull out the gear it was too tight, so I put the pliers on top of the gear and then hammered the gear &lt;em&gt;down&lt;/em&gt;, not up. Then on top of it I have put the gear that came with the dual drive on top of the old gear and screwed it according to nozzle position. After e-step calibration, to my surprise the whole thing worked and printing fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31485" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2021-10-08T13:11:19.013" LastActivityDate="2021-10-08T13:11:19.013" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18213" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18207" CreationDate="2021-10-08T12:17:22.930" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This sounds like a bad thermistor. Try replacing the head thermistor, see if this fixes it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for the strange error message, it looks like the word Temperature is being drawn on the wrong line, and then &amp;quot;is too low&amp;quot; writes over it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See the way the word lines up below:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;nozzle temperature&#xA;is too lowperature&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28485" LastActivityDate="2021-10-08T12:17:22.930" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18214" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18191" CreationDate="2021-10-08T12:33:50.750" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This happened to me once - no plastic would come out, the extruder was jammed. I was stumped as to what was happening, as I couldn't put any filament through the hotend, but it was definitely still hot. The problem: don't ask me how it happened, but a small screw had somehow found its way into the hotend.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28485" LastActivityDate="2021-10-08T12:33:50.750" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18215" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18022" CreationDate="2021-10-08T18:08:49.587" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The primary advantage of borosilicate isn't that it's resistant to thermal shock -- as someone already noted, there's not much in the way of rapid heating or cooling in FDM printing (yes, the filament is hot, but its mass is low enough the glass it touches won't pick up much heat).  Rather, it's the low expansion.  Common soda-lime glass (window glass, mirror glass) expands several times as much as borosilicate, which means it will also shrink several times as much when it cools back down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're holding constant temp throughout the print, and give adequate preheat time, that won't matter, but if (for instance) you heat the bed 10 °C hotter for the first layer, then cool it, plain glass will shrink enough to potentially cause the print to come loose, while borosilicate won't.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ceramic glass is like borosilicate only more so (akin to Corningware) -- but again, not worth paying for unless you expect to change your bed temperature during the print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For any kind of glass, my own preference is to use glue stick.  I apply a &amp;quot;squiggle&amp;quot;  (a precise metric volume), use 91% isopropyl to spread it evenly over the build area, and my prints stay stuck, but pop right off when the glass cools a little.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28508" LastActivityDate="2021-10-08T18:08:49.587" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18216" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-10-09T14:17:10.960" Score="1" ViewCount="800" Body="&lt;p&gt;I got up this morning and went to start a 13-hour print, but when it went to print the raft the PLA filament wouldn't adhere at all to the bed. It seemed to just bunch up around the nozzle. I don't think it's a leveling issue as I just leveled the bed prior to starting. Any idea why this is happening?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31152" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-10-09T14:23:24.530" LastActivityDate="2021-10-09T14:23:24.530" Title="I suddenly can't get any bed adhesion at all on my Ender 3" Tags="|creality-ender-3|adhesion|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="12" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18217" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-10-09T16:03:13.827" Score="3" ViewCount="691" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know that you need a special nozzle to extrude abrasive filament (carbon fibre, copper, ...). I do have such a nozzle (coated steel) and am printing carbon fibre and copper filament. Last time I used it to print carbon fibre PLA. It worked well, however when I removed the nozzle from the hotend I realized that I could no longer screw the non-abrasive nozzle in (the dirt cheap 0.1$ china nozzles that work well enough for most materials) and the thread of the hotend was completely loosened up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had been working on a few other things with my printer, so I am not entirely sure what caused the thread to become loose, but I was wondering, are there some requirements to the hotend excluding the nozzle when printing abrasive filament?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20301" LastActivityDate="2021-10-10T19:24:12.687" Title="Does abrasive filament require a special hotend?" Tags="|filament|hotend|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18218" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-10-10T13:49:05.377" Score="1" ViewCount="80" Body="&lt;p&gt;Blender and 3D printing beginner here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First of all I'm using Ultimaker Cura and Blender of course, with an Ender 3 Pro to print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I need to print this cylinder with extruded paths. How do I go about it? I'm struggling to set the printer to support the structure internally. The blue on this image is an external support. The grey parts at the top of the half cylinder laying down is just absent of filament, so when I print this it gets to this point and basically breaks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So how can I fix this? I used a solidify modifier in Blender but it doesn't seem to make a difference if I do or don't..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any help would be much appreciated&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hSItn.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hSItn.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31504" LastActivityDate="2021-10-10T13:49:05.377" Title="3D Printing - Cylinder printing has holes - why? How to print with internal supports - Ultimaker Cura" Tags="|blender|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18219" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18217" CreationDate="2021-10-10T17:49:37.683" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Abrasive filaments require a stronger nozzle indeed. They also require an all-metal hotend. If your hotend wasn't all-metal, there's a good chance you've damaged it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The PEEK/PTFE in your hotend doesn't like going above 240 Celsius and tends to be irreparably damaged if used too long above 250 Celsius.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4897" LastActivityDate="2021-10-10T17:49:37.683" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18220" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18217" CreationDate="2021-10-10T19:24:12.687" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The hotend itself consists of basically 3 parts:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The filament path, aka Coolend. It consists of the heartbreak, cooling solution and anything up from it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The heater block, that holds everything together&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The nozzle, in which the filament melts and is pushed out.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The part of the hotend assembly that gets to be in the most contact with the particles that are inside the abrasive filament is the nozzle through which the molten polymer gets out. Unless you have heat creep and the filament melts in the heartbreak, it is the only part that ever will encounter the abrasive particles even.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since even the most abrasive filaments come as rather smooth filaments, only the nozzle needs to be special. Hardened Steel will hold some kilos, while people printing a lot of carbonfiber filled material swear on ruby nozzles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastActivityDate="2021-10-10T19:24:12.687" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18222" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-10-11T03:46:14.397" Score="1" ViewCount="2666" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have changed my hotend on my Ender 3 v2 with Dragonfly BMS.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In effect, because I wanted to reach higher temperatures, I also changed the thermistor with one that is 3mm wide and does not have the bead shape.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/95Asi.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/95Asi.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is what it looks like&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The connector is the same as the Creality Ender 3 v2 one (JST).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It was listed as &amp;quot;HT-NTC 100K 3950 Thermistor for Reprap Hot-End&amp;quot; and &amp;quot;Working temperature: -50 °C ~ +350 °C, can replace the original K-thermistor. Suitable for printing high temperature filaments.&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I replaced the stock one and did a PID callibration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, when I attempted to print parts, first I observed bubbles and degradation of the fillament (PETG at 240 and PLA at 200). I tried lowering the temperature and it started printing well (PETG)  at 200 C, which obviously is way too low. Same goes for PLA, which I can't print over 170.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B0951Y47HQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s02?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;psc=1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Here's the  product on amazon&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone have experience with this kind of problem? I have access to modifying Marlin firmware. I am not sure if this is a different type of temperature sensor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm using OCTOPRINT to see the temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the sensors are off the hot end reports 22.1 degrees while the bed reports 22.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27179" LastEditorUserId="27179" LastEditDate="2021-10-11T07:54:50.270" LastActivityDate="2021-10-11T08:37:45.987" Title="K-Thermistor vs Ender 3 Stock Thermistor: Problem with bad reads" Tags="|hotend|petg|thermistor|temperature|all-metal-hotend|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18223" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18222" CreationDate="2021-10-11T08:31:30.747" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Even if it works properly (which it seems not to do), this type of thermistor will only have a resistance of around 100 Ohms at 350°C, which is too low to be useful in your printer. It is rather suspicious that the seller does not specify an accuracy for the thermistor, so it is probably of a low accuracy, which will make things even worse. I am not surprised that you are getting poor results with it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maybe use a Platinum RTD, instead of a thermistor. A PT1000 RTD will have a temperature of 1000 Ohms at 0°C, and so should be usable in your printer without needing an amplifier board. &lt;a href=&quot;https://e3d-online.com/products/pt1000-temperature-sensor&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;E3D-Online&lt;/a&gt; sell one that is rated up to 500°C. You will need to change the sensor type in your printer's firmware, which will probably mean recompiling and re-flashing the firmware.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I used &lt;a href=&quot;https://lasercalculator.com/ntc-thermistor-calculator/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this thermistor calculator&lt;/a&gt; to calculate the expected resistance at 350°C.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3953" LastEditorUserId="3953" LastEditDate="2021-10-11T08:37:45.987" LastActivityDate="2021-10-11T08:37:45.987" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18224" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-10-11T08:42:01.200" Score="4" ViewCount="1842" Body="&lt;p&gt;When printing a 3D model on a resin printer should I sand down imperfections and marks left by supports before or after curing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are the benefits and drawbacks of doing it either way?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="29097" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2021-10-11T20:32:22.027" LastActivityDate="2021-10-15T22:17:32.110" Title="Should I cure my 3D printed resin model before or after sanding down imperfections?" Tags="|resin|post-processing|safety|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18225" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18189" CreationDate="2021-10-11T09:54:23.720" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Another option is to use &lt;a href=&quot;https://fullcontrolgcode.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Full Control Designer&lt;/a&gt; where you can define the path using Excel formulas and it will generate the GCode for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2338" LastActivityDate="2021-10-11T09:54:23.720" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18226" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-10-11T17:24:31.573" Score="1" ViewCount="197" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently upgraded from a Creality 4.2.7 controller board to a BigTreeTech SKR E3 Turbo and touch screen. When power is applied, the extruder motor turns slightly, then freezes and has a low humming noise with the shaft locked up, the only way to stop it is to unplug it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The hotend is a Micro Swiss direct drive set up in an Ender 3. So the motor has been used for about a year and worked fine. All of the other motors work fine, but the extruder motor is behaving like this, it hasn't worked at all in this current set up. I can't pinpoint if it's a firmware issue or if something is shorted on the mainboard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I’ve tried all of the basics, flip-flopped all of the pins around/checked the wiring, all seems correct. I tried a different 42-40 motor and got the same result. All the other motors work fine so I think it might be firmware but I don’t really know. Any help is appreciated!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See &lt;a href=&quot;https://imgur.com/a/xomW8Ey&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this link&lt;/a&gt; for a video of the issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26347" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-10-12T09:41:25.470" LastActivityDate="2021-10-12T09:41:25.470" Title="Extruder motor freezing" Tags="|creality-ender-3|marlin|bigtreetech|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18227" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18224" CreationDate="2021-10-11T20:32:10.150" Score="4" Body="&lt;h1&gt;Postprocessing AFTER Curing&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Liquid or not fully cured Resin is a skin irritant and should not be handled without gloves. Exposure to it is to be reduced to an absolute minimum.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To make sure you work with an inert chunk, you need to first wash and then cure your items before handling any postprocessing, such as sanding. Only this way you can avoid getting in contact with any liquid resin in case any spot inside is not cured, possibly due to enclosed cavities or places that were not reachable by washing but which might be exposed during postprocessing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a side effect, abrasive post-processing works much more evenly, the less ductile and more even the material is. As an example, woods that have very hard and very soft rings interchanging, are a pain to sand smoothly without the aid of a contraption and do sand differently with than sideways to the grain, while even materials like steel file smoothly in all directions. A fully cured resin print is much more monolithic than a raw print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2021-10-15T22:17:32.110" LastActivityDate="2021-10-15T22:17:32.110" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18228" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-10-12T04:17:31.103" Score="1" ViewCount="185" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm testing a HHO generator (oxyhydrogen - browns gas generator) and I use 1% NaOH solution (sodium hydroxide -lye).  I made some &lt;strong&gt;M8 threaded adapters&lt;/strong&gt; for it using PETG (Polyethylene terephthalate glycol) which works for storage.  But I notice the &lt;strong&gt;M8 threaded adapters starting to disintegrate&lt;/strong&gt; when the generator is running.  Does anyone know of a low cost filament that will work with a HHO generator (oxyhydrogen - browns gas generator) and a 1% NaOH solution (sodium hydroxide -lye).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I'm not using glass in the main generator&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I'm using 2 bubblers for safety with flashback arrestor.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The printer I have access to is a Prusa Mk3s FDM&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The HHO generator doesn't use more than 2 amps to generate HHO so the device is cool to the touch (not much heat is generated)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is what some of the M8 PETG adapters look like.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dOuJJ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dOuJJ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;img1&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://pawplus.wordpress.com/3d-designs-page-2/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://pawplus.wordpress.com/3d-designs-page-2/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20878" LastEditorUserId="20878" LastEditDate="2021-10-12T06:06:08.827" LastActivityDate="2021-10-12T06:06:08.827" Title="Looking for 3D filament thats compatiable with HHO-oxyhydrogen and NaOH sodium hydroxide -lye" Tags="|filament|material|filament-choice|filament-quality|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18229" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18228" CreationDate="2021-10-12T04:38:57.873" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Polypropylene should be good, and relatively easy to print. &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&amp;amp;rct=j&amp;amp;q=&amp;amp;esrc=s&amp;amp;source=web&amp;amp;cd=&amp;amp;ved=2ahUKEwj-ifvwhcTzAhVHgVwKHcLzAz0QFnoECAYQAw&amp;amp;url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.prinsco.com%2Fwp-content%2Fuploads%2F2017%2F06%2FHP-Chemical-Resistance-Tech-Note.pdf&amp;amp;usg=AOvVaw2vqcOu6QGmqj7i6EnkaorC&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Prinsco&lt;/a&gt; rate its resistance to NaOH as A-Excellent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ultimaker provide a &lt;a href=&quot;https://ultimaker.com/learn/chemical-resistant-materials-a-beginners-guide&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;useful guide&lt;/a&gt; to the chemical resistance properties of 3D printing filaments.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3953" LastActivityDate="2021-10-12T04:38:57.873" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18230" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7388" CreationDate="2021-10-12T07:15:20.347" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm having the same issue with Ender 3 V2. Everything tightened, Z-axis coupler not &amp;quot;slipping&amp;quot;... I noticed, that the error is made by the Z-axis end switch itself. I am not sure how that is possible but try homing several times and you'll see that the loud click when the switch is triggered occurs in a span of +/- 3 mm, which then results in a collision of the hot end and the bed, or the hot end being too high.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From what I noticed, the problem got worse after installing OctoPi. Strangely enough, I get very different results when homing &amp;quot;manually&amp;quot; (from the machine display menu), and when homing is done at the beginning of printing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I believe that the problem has three solutions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;At least 3 skirt loops and adjust the bed on the fly. This is a very unfortunate solution, but that's what I have now.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I suggest some sort of speed regulation when approaching the switch (Z -&amp;gt; 0), thus making the switch always trigger at the same height. I'm a programmer, but not familiar with G-code, I'll make this solution publicly available when I get to it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Change the switch. The tin &amp;quot;paw&amp;quot; that can bend is unfortunate when you need 0,01 [mm] precision. The video is unrelated to the topic, but run 10-15 seconds and you'll see what I mean: &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/g0PK4oXbJT8?t=266&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Z-axis switch replacement&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31523" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-10-15T03:18:12.270" LastActivityDate="2021-10-15T03:18:12.270" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18232" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-10-12T16:03:55.683" Score="3" ViewCount="291" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an Ender 3 and I'm experiencing an issue where it won't print on the edges. Near the outside of the bed plastic just peels away. Bed is level - verified multiple times.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The nozzle appears to be dragging the freshly extruded filament away before it has a chance to cool. Straight lines and wide curves print well about 30 % of the time, and sharp corners and curves won't print at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The printer works fine in the center, but the outer 3 cm or so are unusable. Not sure what could cause this. I leveled the bed multiple times - even told the printer to move without touching it, just to eliminate incorrect leveling by slight play in the rollers. Head is the same distance from the plate in the center as it is along the edges. No irregular high or low areas - bed is perfectly flat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this a known issue with the Ender 3? How can it be fixed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am using the stock fiberglass bed with the BuildTak surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28485" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-10-21T22:07:38.767" LastActivityDate="2021-11-14T22:19:51.460" Title="Issue with Ender 3 bed" Tags="|creality-ender-3|heated-bed|adhesion|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18233" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13737" CreationDate="2021-10-12T16:11:27.350" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had this exact issue - PLA wasn't sticking to itself. It was intermittently being dragged around by the nozzle, and prints literally fell apart when removing them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem: bad filament. I bought a new roll and the printer worked fine afterward.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28485" LastActivityDate="2021-10-12T16:11:27.350" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18234" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9973" CreationDate="2021-10-12T16:43:51.220" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had the same problem with an Ender 3 out of the box. I ended up adding a thin raft under each print. This would solve it if you don't want to do the manual adjusting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31535" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-10-12T16:58:39.180" LastActivityDate="2021-10-12T16:58:39.180" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18235" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-10-12T22:08:26.807" Score="0" ViewCount="1462" Body="&lt;p&gt;I got the Jyers firmware to upgrade my Ender 3 V2 and added a BLTouch. I got it up and running, followed most of the tutorials on the internet and videos, and uncommented all that was needed. The BLTouch is doing its work creating the mesh values, HOWEVER, when the print is started the Z-axis does not move.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We managed to make it move once but no idea why it moved (to compensate for the mesh variations)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Right now we are stuck with the printer not considering the mesh for printing&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To summarize, I followed each detail from this tutorial: &lt;a href=&quot;https://teachingtechyt.github.io/upgrades.html#bltouch&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://teachingtechyt.github.io/upgrades.html#bltouch&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Double-checked, triple-checked&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried &lt;code&gt;G29&lt;/code&gt; after &lt;code&gt;G28&lt;/code&gt; and &lt;code&gt;G420 S1&lt;/code&gt; after &lt;code&gt;G28&lt;/code&gt; and made no difference. I know there is the need to store the mash in EEPROM in order to be used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In 2 tests, we say the Z-axis doing its thing, but when we tried to put filament (running with none) prepare for a full test it stopped working.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a new printer fully working, it is a problem with the firmware and/or the way we are using it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All the other functions of the firmware are working perfectly. Actually, we upgraded another printer where the BLTouch did not work either but we manually aligned and it is doing printing for hours.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Jyers v1.3.5.b using the source code and compiled on PlatformIO&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23744" LastEditorUserId="36802" LastEditDate="2023-11-22T17:20:00.180" LastActivityDate="2023-11-22T17:20:00.180" Title="Ender 3 V2 &amp; BLTouch with Jyers firmware not compensating" Tags="|creality-ender-3|firmware|bltouch|jyers|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18236" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-10-12T23:53:34.217" Score="0" ViewCount="49" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an Ender 3 V2 running off a Raspberry Pi and Octoprint, and it works.   I'm trying to tune the prints and improve output, and I'm not sure how much impact the Pi has on the print quality.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Pi I have is below recommended specs, being a &amp;quot;Raspberry Pi Model B Plus Rev 1.2&amp;quot; with 512 MB ram.  This has one 700 MHz ARM CPU core, and the load average suggests it is CPU-bound&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;00:30:54 up 8 days, 16:25,  1 user,  load average: 1.88, 1.62, 1.69&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Memory usage is fine, with 84 MB used out of 366 MB available, so it's not RAM-bound.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a USB webcam working too, and while I can watch a print in progress, the box cannot deal with processing timelapse.  It takes over an hour to process an hour's timelapse footage, so I had to disable that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;https://octoprint.org/download/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;documentation for OctoPrint&lt;/a&gt; states&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Recommended hardware: Raspberry Pi 3B, 3B+ or 4B. Expect print artifacts and long loading times with other options, especially when adding a webcam or installing third-party plugins. Setups not using recommended hardware are not officially supported.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Raspberry Pi Zero W is not recommended explicitly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Question:&lt;/strong&gt;  What kind of quality issues can arise from running OctoPrint on an under-specced Pi?   And would my print quality improve with a higher-specced print server?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12956" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-10-13T00:04:27.850" LastActivityDate="2021-10-13T00:04:27.850" Title="OctoPi and sub-recommended hardware spec?" Tags="|print-quality|octoprint|raspberry-pi|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2021-11-15T09:00:06.037" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18237" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-10-13T09:18:17.673" Score="0" ViewCount="508" Body="&lt;p&gt;after installing BLTouch v3.1 on my Creality Ender 3 v2, I am facing the issue with x and z axis. During auto bed leveling seems like printer is trying to go outside x, y position of bed and make levelling there. By doing that it is crashing to printer's frame. It is happening for x and also y axis movement. Could you please help me how to solve this issue? My motherboard is v4.2.2, I've tested many different firmwares (official, also not official) but situation is still the same and I am not able to make auto bed levelling successfully. Printing itself is working fine. Thank you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/iBxEJmopgDs&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Youtube video to show behaviour and crashing to the fram&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Images of the board connection, BLTouch version etc.:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://ibb.co/BZbLFDY&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://ibb.co/BZbLFDY&lt;/a&gt; &lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://ibb.co/4tHN5c8&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://ibb.co/4tHN5c8&lt;/a&gt; &lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://ibb.co/jHGdCZX&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://ibb.co/jHGdCZX&lt;/a&gt; &lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://ibb.co/4Yp9ZBW&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://ibb.co/4Yp9ZBW&lt;/a&gt; &lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://ibb.co/Q9VQWxJ&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://ibb.co/Q9VQWxJ&lt;/a&gt; &lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://ibb.co/nn8W2C4&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://ibb.co/nn8W2C4&lt;/a&gt; &lt;br&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31549" LastActivityDate="2021-10-13T09:18:17.673" Title="Creality Ender 3 v2 and BLTouch v3.1 - issues with x, y axis - crashing to the printer's frame" Tags="|creality-ender-3|bed-leveling|bltouch|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18238" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-10-13T19:50:43.503" Score="1" ViewCount="330" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently upgraded my Ender 3 V2 to use a Micro Swiss Direct Drive and extruder.  with the layout change, comes a lot of cable management changes, &lt;em&gt;especially&lt;/em&gt; to prevent the cables from getting pinched between the stepper motor and the frame at the very limits of x or z&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've started with some various cable chain things, like:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4932649&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4932649&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2920060&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2920060&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4568608&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4568608&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and adapted them to work for me.  They're all printed in PLA, and they are a little &amp;quot;creaky&amp;quot; sometimes, or otherwise &amp;quot;stick&amp;quot; and don't freely rotate/hinge as much as I'd like.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there some kind of lubrication I can/should use? I tried some graphite powder spray and really all it seems to have done is make a mess and stain the links of the chain black :D&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The closest thing I think I can find with some info is this Reddit thread:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/comments/7d4rhi/good_lubricants_for_enclosed_pla_gearbox/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/comments/7d4rhi/good_lubricants_for_enclosed_pla_gearbox/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;but it's from ~4 years ago.  A fair amount of the things I'm finding are contradictory, as the internet always is :D&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31511" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-10-14T03:02:47.347" LastActivityDate="2022-07-12T00:06:40.607" Title="Cable Chain lubrication?" Tags="|mechanics|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18239" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-10-13T20:39:35.900" Score="0" ViewCount="28" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am writing an M-code for a new algorithm to reduce vibrations during printing. After a bit of preprocessing, my algorithm spits out the number of steps for each drive. Is there any way I can provide these steps directly to the drives to be executed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;E.g. instead of providing &lt;code&gt;G0 X5&lt;/code&gt;I would like to send &lt;code&gt;Some_G_code X400&lt;/code&gt; which basically says the x drive should move 400 steps which would result in the same move as &lt;code&gt;G0 X5&lt;/code&gt;, assuming 80 steps/mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31558" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-10-14T03:06:41.823" LastActivityDate="2021-10-14T03:06:41.823" Title="Manually provide the number of steps to be executed by a drive (RepRap firmware 3.3)" Tags="|reprap-firmware|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18240" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-10-13T23:43:55.960" Score="2" ViewCount="281" Body="&lt;p&gt;I dried my spool of PLA this morning to solve adhesion issues and proceeded to print the model that failed due to the aforementioned issues. But when it was done and I went to remove it from the bed, it wouldn't budge; even the scraper that comes with the Ender 3 didn't help. I require immediate assistance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31152" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-10-14T03:08:33.190" LastActivityDate="2021-10-14T03:08:33.190" Title="I dried my filament because it wouldn't adhere properly but now it adheres a bit too well" Tags="|creality-ender-3|pla|adhesion|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18241" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18240" CreationDate="2021-10-14T00:04:18.223" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I removed the mat from the bed and popped the print off&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31152" LastActivityDate="2021-10-14T00:04:18.223" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18242" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18245" CreationDate="2021-10-14T18:45:17.930" Score="2" ViewCount="662" Body="&lt;p&gt;Long story I'll try to bullet point to speed up so bear with me:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I have a heavily modded Ender 3 Pro&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Relevant mods for this question: Control board swapped for BTT E3 RRF, Dual Z motor, BLTouch&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ultimately I'd love to convert the Ender 3 pro to have IDEX, probably after I make it bigger with an Ender extender kit, but it's cool if it takes a long time&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Whether or not its easier to just build a large printer with IDEX (rather than continually changing my Ender 3) is a different question, but I just like modifying my printer.  I like learning along the way&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Right when I got my BTT E3 RRF and my dual Z motor, I thought it'd be awesome to be able to do &lt;code&gt;G34&lt;/code&gt; auto alignment, much &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6UgT9YqY3UA&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;like Teaching Tech describes in this video&lt;/a&gt;. The BTT E3 RRF has a port for a second Z-axis motor so I thought I was good&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Come to find out that (I believe) the second port on the board is actually just driven off the same driver, I don't believe it can be controlled separately (correct me if I'm wrong).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Somewhere on the internet I read that if you get the IDEX expansion board from BTT it can do that, so before I researched further, I bought one.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;And &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QHblq2AReqQ&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;as you can see in this video from Aurora Tech, you can do indeed do &lt;code&gt;G34&lt;/code&gt; with the IDEX board&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The problem is, it looks like in that video she actually plugs the Z motor into the slot meant for the extruder motor.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Which brings me to my question:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want both. I want to be able to do &lt;code&gt;G34&lt;/code&gt; but also eventually run a fully functioning IDEX. I've already bought both the BTT E3 RRF and the IDEX board....   am I out of luck?  Do you need an Octopus board or something? Or is there a way to do both with the hardware I have now?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15186" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-10-15T06:25:38.447" LastActivityDate="2021-10-31T04:59:46.580" Title="Possible to get G34 auto align and IDEX with Ender 3 Pro and BTT E3 RRF?" Tags="|creality-ender-3|bigtreetech|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18244" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18238" CreationDate="2021-10-14T22:47:16.847" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;FDM printed chain links are inherently rough. This roughness results in friction, which directly results in squeaking, creaking, and other noise as well as uneven movement as it snags.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An injection-molded cable chain is best, and you need to have the right bending radius for the cables you use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you need to use printed parts, including some non-printed smooth bushings in between the printed parts is the most effective way to have smooth movement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastActivityDate="2021-10-14T22:47:16.847" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18245" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18242" CreationDate="2021-10-15T06:48:48.063" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The basic RRF board has a single Z driver which connects to two Z stepper sockets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In order to individually drive two steppers, you need an optional stepper driver like in a dedicated Z2 stepper driver or a spare E1 driver to function as the second Z driver. The basic RRF board only has four drivers, so this board alone will not bring the functionality of individual driven Z steppers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The extension board for support of IDEX gives access to another two stepper drivers, an X2 and a E1. Both are required for the second X-axis, so this expansion board will not give you a spare for the second Z driver.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With the boards you acquired you can therefore not have both dual individual driven Z screws and an additional X-axis with additional extruder (IDEX) using the current onboard drivers (including the breakout board). You need a board with at least 7 stepper drivers, but, if there are free pins available you could add an additional stepper manually in firmware.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-10-15T21:13:02.210" LastActivityDate="2021-10-15T21:13:02.210" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18247" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18248" CreationDate="2021-10-17T08:01:03.133" Score="2" ViewCount="202" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am not familiar with 3D printing at all, is it possible to print tiny objects with some 3D printing technology that is available to a consumer audience? I am not talking about microscopic scale, but about say a figurine that is 4mm tall. However, the size required for the eye of the figurine, for instance, would be in the ballpark of 0.5 millimeters (500 microns) in diameter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31598" LastEditorUserId="31598" LastEditDate="2021-10-17T08:07:00.677" LastActivityDate="2021-10-18T17:39:18.603" Title="Printing minuscule objects" Tags="|resolution|scaling|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18248" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18247" CreationDate="2021-10-17T11:21:58.993" Score="7" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Resin&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Today's hobby grade resin printers are capable of amazingly tiny detail. The hole is about 1.5 mm diameter, and the pencil point in the photo below is of the same scale as the part. It was farther out of the frame and composited in to provide a better reference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This part was constructed on request of a train aficionado desiring to have hinges for the freight cars he was building.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Yuaz5.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Yuaz5.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;door hinge image&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Details that are not holes would be more easily accomplished. Depending on the orientation of the figurine, you can get between 0.037 mm and 0.050 mm resolution. This is due to different resolutions in the x/y plane and the z-plane. If the figurine's feature was vertical, the z-resolution could be 0.050 mm but the x/y resolution would be 0.037 mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's a great reference page from &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.chitubox.com/en/article/support/indepth/technology/32&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Chitubox&lt;/a&gt; describing the different technologies as well as a couple photos.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iojFT.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iojFT.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;0.047 mm resolution image&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;This image is of a model constructed with 0.047 mm resolution. The following image is of a model constructed at 0.100 mm resolution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/y3a7V.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/y3a7V.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;0.100 mm resolution image&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Above images from linked site.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;FDM™&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Referencing the comment below, it should be noted that the above information is specific to resin printers. It is very much different when discussing filament printers. Filament printers (FDM™ or FFF) will have much coarser resolutions. It's typical to have layer thickness (z-resolution) of 0.100 mm. Every one of my FFF printers can print at that resolution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The x/y resolution is based on the nozzle diameter. The common nozzle is 0.40 mm diameter, limiting the resolution to slightly greater than that, as the filament will bulge as it is extruded.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One can find 0.25 mm nozzles and expect approximately 0.30 mm width of deposited filament. I've read of 0.10 mm nozzles, but once you reach that level, it's time to think of resin printing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had attempted to print the door hinge bracket on my FFF printer, using 0.100 mm layer height on a 0.40 mm nozzle. It was a complete mess.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastEditorUserId="854" LastEditDate="2021-10-18T17:39:18.603" LastActivityDate="2021-10-18T17:39:18.603" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18249" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7920" CreationDate="2021-10-17T15:37:10.740" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I got a blob of around 5 x 8 cm out of PETG! Setting extruder temp to PETG or even a little higher. I did it all with an older soldering iron.&#xA;Simply (but carefully!) go with the point into the blob and take it slowly off. With a copper 'toothbrush', I cleaned the extruder and nozzle more times.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After mostly all was down I started with the first layer test (Prusa MK3S+)&#xA;That was surprisingly almost perfect. Then started to print not very high subjects like rings etc. With that several burned drops came down during printing. Use the 'toothbrush' as many times you can between the first prints!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Done without any damage to the printer as a whole!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31602" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-10-17T23:29:43.333" LastActivityDate="2021-10-17T23:29:43.333" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18251" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-10-18T15:25:47.690" Score="1" ViewCount="394" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the past couple of weeks, my V6 hotend gets jammed very frequently. The nozzle is 0.4 mm and the printer is a D-Bot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are some of the things I have tried so far,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Switched between the original and a clone and both get jammed.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tried different heat breaks - the one where the Bowden PTFE tube goes all the way to the nozzle, the one where its an all metal one and the one that has a PTFE liner inside it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Checked and re-calibrated the E steps and the PID tuning for the nozzle.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Used different filaments (PLA).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tightened the nozzle against the heat break every time&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tried different printing speeds and also calibrated the extrusion multiplier.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tried different retraction speeds and lengths.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ensured that the heat sink is adequately cooled.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What could I be missing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5113" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-10-18T21:39:20.180" LastActivityDate="2021-10-18T21:39:20.180" Title="E3D V6 hotend gets jammed very frequently" Tags="|e3d-v6|filament-jam|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18252" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18255" CreationDate="2021-10-19T06:56:32.950" Score="1" ViewCount="340" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Backstory:&lt;/strong&gt; Like &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/search?q=build+plate+sticking&quot;&gt;quite a lot of people here&lt;/a&gt;, I'm having problems with parts adhering to the build plate of a resin printer.  I've tried everything that I can think of: cleaning &amp;amp; re-sanding the buildplate at 80 grit, levelling the plate with and without a sheet of paper between the plate and LCD, warm resin, and silicone spray on the FEP.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/6220&quot;&gt;the answer&lt;/a&gt; to &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/q/4353&quot;&gt;this question&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/11171/michael-wooten&quot;&gt;Michael Wooten&lt;/a&gt; says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;PRO TIP to improve bed adhesion&lt;/strong&gt;: apply a thin layer of resin to the build platform before you start to print. I have not any failed prints after I started coating the plate with resin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was wondering if there was any clarification on this layer of resin:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Should it be cured, partially cured, or left alone?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How thick should it be?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, is there any known methodology?  If I paint some resin onto the build plate and cure with a UV lamp, I worry that the layer won't be particularly flat.  I thought about using the &amp;quot;cleaning&amp;quot; function on the printer to shine UV light through, but it would also cure area between the edge of the build plate and the tank.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any tips on this exact method of making prints stick to the plate would be greatly appreciated!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried again, and it still didn't work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I left a thin film of resin on the build plate from the previous failed print, and cured it for a minute or two until it felt tacky.  The resin was still warm from last print, so I ran again (after removing the failed pancakes of course) and after a few hours I could see that nothing had printed this time either.  The irritating bit is that the pancakes slide off the FEP pretty easily!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31110" LastEditorUserId="31110" LastEditDate="2021-10-19T12:43:58.057" LastActivityDate="2021-10-24T22:45:09.913" Title="Resin layer for adhesion: how should I do it?" Tags="|adhesion|resin|creality|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18253" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18258" CreationDate="2021-10-19T10:26:24.363" Score="2" ViewCount="2994" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to slice some models using the default HALOT BOX software from Creality, which comes with the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.creality3dofficial.com/products/halot-one-cl-60-resin-3d-printer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Halot One&lt;/a&gt; resin 3D printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've oriented them at 45 degrees, and am using supports.  When I come to slice the models, the models all jump up a few millimetres, as seen in the below screenshot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I thought it was just a UI bug, until the same image also appears on the printer screen, with a gap between the supports and the raft.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LTCGy.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LTCGy.png&quot; alt=&quot;Floating models&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I reset the position of the model, it goes back down as I would expect it to be, but when I click &amp;quot;slice&amp;quot; it moves back up again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/65fYN.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/65fYN.png&quot; alt=&quot;One object back in place&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My settings are as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Nsp5G.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Nsp5G.png&quot; alt=&quot;Slicer settings&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do I fix this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31110" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-10-19T13:06:40.273" LastActivityDate="2021-12-17T22:08:51.750" Title="HALOT BOX makes objects with support move up" Tags="|slicing|resin|creality|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18254" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-10-19T11:20:41.723" Score="4" ViewCount="224" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am new to 3D printing and have an Ender 5 Pro.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have manually leveled the bed by setting the nozzle gap to 0.1 mm (via feeler gauges) and then printing a calibration print and manually adjusting the bed height as it prints. I can get perfect calibration prints using both a glass bed and a PEI bed, printing with a bed temp of 75 °C and a nozzle temp of 210 °C:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rPi1S.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rPi1S.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I’m now trying various other prints without success, as the print doesn’t adhere. See this example of a 1 mm thick bookmark, which I am printing with a brim to try and help :&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/G4sDz.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/G4sDz.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I’m not sure what the experts here can ascertain from this failed print without all the slicing parameters. I’m a bit suspicious that the print appears to clump and I’m wondering if the soft extruded material is sticking to the PLA already laid down and if so, if I can address that?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I actually seemed to have more success with the original flexible bed with several successful prints.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The G-code for the calibration target: &lt;a href=&quot;https://pastebin.com/Brc8R8Cs&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://pastebin.com/Brc8R8Cs&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and for the bookmark: &lt;a href=&quot;https://pastebin.com/9AXaqiMw&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://pastebin.com/9AXaqiMw&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had to remove a lot of the G-code for the bookmark due to its size, so hopefully I've left the important stuff in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I started printing by loading the models in CURA, slicing and exporting to an SD card. I didn't;t create a new project for each print and it took me a while to realise I was losing the slicing parameters I'd used each time, making it difficult or impossible to go back and just change one set of parms. I'm now creating a separate project, so hopefully from now on I can just tweak one or 2 parms.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5396" LastEditorUserId="5396" LastEditDate="2021-10-23T10:14:19.600" LastActivityDate="2021-10-30T11:45:24.420" Title="Why won’t this print adhere after a perfect calibration print?" Tags="|adhesion|creality-ender-5|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="12" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18255" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18252" CreationDate="2021-10-19T13:09:48.880" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The whole reason to pre-coat the plate with &lt;strong&gt;liquid&lt;/strong&gt; resin is to ensure, that no air bubbles are left under it and prevent contact of the plate to the resin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A layer of cured resin throws off your 0.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastActivityDate="2021-10-19T13:09:48.880" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18256" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18254" CreationDate="2021-10-19T18:27:00.127" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;First, heat the bed to printing temperature, let it &amp;quot;soak&amp;quot; for a few minutes, and then re-do your bed levelling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thermal expansion can mess with the level.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12956" LastActivityDate="2021-10-19T18:27:00.127" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18257" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18254" CreationDate="2021-10-19T23:02:22.537" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well I got a perfect print as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Loaded the .stl file.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Set Cura to use the 'Good' profile downloaded from CHEPCLUB&#xA;(recommended by a friend).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Used &lt;strike&gt;Pritt-stick&lt;/strike&gt; Scotch (glue stick) on the bed.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was quite loath to use glue stick, as I thought heated beds etc didn't need it, but if that's what it takes then...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I even bought an enclosure a few days ago as the room the printer was in if fairly cool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'll try the exact same print without the glue and see if that works but at least I know know that I can get a perfect print and that a good calibration print isn't the be-all and end-all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5396" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-10-20T22:01:44.237" LastActivityDate="2021-10-20T22:01:44.237" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18258" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18253" CreationDate="2021-10-20T08:25:40.750" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Turns out I was using an old (and buggy) version of the software.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The version I was using came on the supplied USB memory stick and was version 1.9-something.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I downloaded the latest version (2.0-something) off &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.creality.com/download&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;the Creality website&lt;/a&gt; and now it doesn't appear to have the same problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6heE4.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6heE4.png&quot; alt=&quot;Yay!&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31110" LastActivityDate="2021-10-20T08:25:40.750" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18259" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-10-20T14:23:36.540" Score="2" ViewCount="69" Body="&lt;p&gt;We are in a stage of creating a prototype of some IoT device with some electric boards and sensors.&#xA;The device will be connected to the power and the boards inside might be warm a bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What material whould you recommended to print it? Will you recommend it to production as well?&#xA;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31654" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2021-10-21T09:54:29.323" LastActivityDate="2021-10-21T09:56:40.030" Title="Material for printing electric device prototype" Tags="|print-material|filament-choice|rapid-prototyping|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18260" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18259" CreationDate="2021-10-20T22:40:53.093" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are using powered MCUs (like an ESP32) or more powerful processing (such as a Raspberry Pi), you should not allow the processor to get hot without some additional passive (heatsinks) or active (fans) cooling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming you are able to cool the devices, even a Pi should not get warmer than 60 °C. If you use PETG or ASA for your enclosure, these can both cope with the temperature as well as external UV exposure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7470" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-10-21T02:57:59.583" LastActivityDate="2021-10-21T02:57:59.583" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18261" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18259" CreationDate="2021-10-21T09:56:40.030" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This highly depends on the design. With standoffs and some distance to any hot surface, pretty much &lt;strong&gt;all&lt;/strong&gt; materials can work as an enclosure, as long as you make sure to have enough cooling capacity from airflow. This airflow can be active (fan-driven) or passive (heat-driven) and entirely based on the interior design of your enclosure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastActivityDate="2021-10-21T09:56:40.030" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18262" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18232" CreationDate="2021-10-21T14:33:54.110" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I used to have the same problem. Put masking or scotch tape on the bed, it should help with adhesion. I think the problem is that the bed is very dirty with finger grease and other things.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27273" LastActivityDate="2021-10-21T14:33:54.110" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18263" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-10-21T19:41:22.247" Score="0" ViewCount="30" Body="&lt;p&gt;When 3D printing model for tabletop gaming system, should the same filament type be used for to print 1&amp;quot; gaming pieces with curved surfaces and lots of small detail, and vehicles which are much larger but which have lots of flat surface and sharp angles?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, could an overall higher quality print be achieved using a specific filament types to print a custom Warhammer 40K space marine, and a different one for a Warhammer 40K rhino assault vehicle?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Replace Warhammer 40K with any comparable sized gaming system as required.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="29097" LastActivityDate="2021-10-21T21:41:48.153" Title="Can higher quality prints be achieved by switching filiment type between printing 1&quot; high detail miniatures and larger low detail vehicle" Tags="|filament-choice|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18264" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18263" CreationDate="2021-10-21T21:41:48.153" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If your objective is quality, the filament type (PLA vs ABS vs PETG vs etc.) is not as important as the slicing parameters. In filament style printers, one compensates surface quality for speed of printing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A feature of a number of slicing programs allows one to change layer height at varying vertical locations in a model/full bed of models.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, a model with a number of vertical flat surfaces will benefit from faster printing if the layer height is set to 0.300 mm on a machine with a 0.40 mm nozzle. A model with organic shapes and few flat surfaces, especially those with curvature in the z-axis would benefit from a higher quality appearance when printed with 0.100 layer height.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Consider that a model may have a pedestal type of base, creating the option for a 0.300 mm layer, but as the model prints, the legs (also mostly vertical) will not be degraded overmuch by such a setting, but once reaching curved areas including the chest, shoulders, arm muscles, one would desire higher quality 0.100 mm layers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The slicing software permits one to designate the first section to one layer height, then switch operations to the thinner height. There are usually no limits to the number of changes permitted in a model print, other than the operator's patience and tolerance for such quantities.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastActivityDate="2021-10-21T21:41:48.153" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18265" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-10-22T07:12:49.073" Score="1" ViewCount="942" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just assembled my Ender 3, was homing the Z Axis and Leveling the bed, etc. During which I heard this high pitched noise that the extruder makes as it travels upwards along its Z-Axis. Was hoping someone could help me diagnose the issue. Including a video showing said noise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://streamable.com/uw0d9e&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://streamable.com/uw0d9e&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31676" LastActivityDate="2021-11-21T10:02:05.343" Title="Strange Z-Axis Noise on New Ender 3" Tags="|creality-ender-3|z-axis|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18266" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18265" CreationDate="2021-10-22T09:06:37.017" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's a cyclic aspect to the metallic noise that would point to a fan blade rubbing somewhere. It's difficult to determine from the video if your extruder fan is running while the carriage is moving, but that would be one place to examine. Even though the power supply doesn't move with the carriage, consider to check the fan within that unit as well. Any other fans on the system should be examined.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't find a fan problem, consider to disconnect the z-axis coupler and command a z-movement. The z-stepper isn't moving fast enough to generate the high pitch sound heard in the video and disconnecting the rod should eliminate misalignment concerns of that motor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastActivityDate="2021-10-22T09:06:37.017" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18267" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-10-22T16:40:49.357" Score="2" ViewCount="1533" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently went to a stainless steel nozzle for printing. What I found is it required significantly more heat to print PLA than I was used to. I'm not sure if the PLA itself (a brand I'd never used before) was to blame or if the nozzle properties was causing the needed increase. By an increase in heat needed, I'm used to printing PLA in the 190 °C (+/-5 °C). What I'm using right now to prevent stringing and to get good layer adhesion, I'm having to print at 220 °C.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is, does nozzle material typically affect the amount of heat needed to print or should we expect heat shouldn't need to be changed? If the nozzle material does affect it, is there any &amp;quot;rules of thumb&amp;quot; to go by on what to expect?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11242" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-10-22T19:43:14.857" LastActivityDate="2021-10-23T09:42:30.010" Title="Print Nozzle Type vs Heat Requirement" Tags="|nozzle|heat-management|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18268" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-10-22T19:36:55.587" Score="0" ViewCount="411" Body="&lt;p&gt;When making large or complex models I frequently divide them up into smaller parts for printing on my Elegoo Saturn resin printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I find it easier to paint the parts separately and then combine them, and it allows me print the top and bottom portions of larger models simultaneously thus reducing print times.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My process typically involves exporting each component as an STL file using Blender, opening the component in Chitubox, and then adding support to it before saving it as a Chitubox project file.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's less memory intensive to process each component separately, and it makes searching for islands faster as there is less model to deal with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once I have saved each individual component as a separate project file I simply open Chitubox and tell it to open all of the project files simultaneously. Chitubox automatically imports them all and combines them into a single new project. This is a feature of the software and doesn't involve any hacks or mods.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I then slice, save and print as normal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sometimes though I can import 3 or files that have absolutely no islands when checked separately, but when checked in their combined form there are suddenyl 1 or two islands. This is almost always on the lower layers. Typically right where one of the sub models meets its supports. Usually where I have a flat object that I've tilted at an angle to avoid having too much material in contact with my FEP.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm using Chitubox free 1.8.1.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="29097" LastEditorUserId="29097" LastEditDate="2021-10-23T06:47:05.427" LastActivityDate="2022-10-29T13:38:05.227" Title="Why are Islands sometimes detected when you combine Chitubox file, but not when you slice models individually?" Tags="|print-quality|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18269" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18267" CreationDate="2021-10-22T22:22:25.103" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Thermal conductivity is the factor to consider in this question. Cost and wear play a part in determining nozzle material selection as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/thermal-conductivity-metals-d_858.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;The Engineering Toolbox&lt;/a&gt;, stainless steel has a conductivity (k) between 14.3 and 14.4 with other stainless steel alloys not showing better than 20. Brass (most common nozzle material) lists between 61 and 121, substantially higher.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, one notes the caution with abrasive filament that a brass nozzle will wear.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.printedsolid.com/blogs/news/how-to-select-the-right-nozzle-for-3d-printing&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;PrintedSolid&lt;/a&gt; has a great photo of a worn brass nozzle sliced in half, against a steel version:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2uNuu.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2uNuu.png&quot; alt=&quot;brass vs steel nozzle&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If one considers that a slower heat transfer gives the device (nozzle) more time to radiate heat to the environment than to pass it along to the filament, the higher temperature makes sense.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some gemstones have a high thermal conductivity. There are ruby and sapphire nozzles available, providing greater wear resistance without the loss of thermal conductivity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regarding a rule of thumb? I have not seen concrete references to what factor to use with temperature increases.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastEditorUserId="854" LastEditDate="2021-10-23T09:42:30.010" LastActivityDate="2021-10-23T09:42:30.010" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18270" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18283" CreationDate="2021-10-23T02:08:33.783" Score="4" ViewCount="1599" Body="&lt;p&gt;For some reason, my larger prints, or rather the ones that I create, have this &amp;quot;dotted&amp;quot; line in them. And, that line usually splits into two pieces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I use Ultimaker Cura for a slicer, I use Blender for modeling, and I have an Ender 3 Pro&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let me know if anyone knows the reason for this as it's preventing me from making things on my own.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Picture:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZUi8y.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Photo of print with dotted line&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZUi8y.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Photo of print with dotted line&quot; title=&quot;Photo of print with dotted line&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's my &lt;a href=&quot;https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachments/610969665744666664/901290253678178364/box.3mf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Cura file&lt;/a&gt;, if anyone needs it&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31686" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2021-10-23T03:50:51.357" LastActivityDate="2021-11-03T13:49:36.147" Title="Why is there a &quot;dotted line&quot; in my &quot;larger&quot; prints" Tags="|creality-ender-3|ultimaker-cura|blender|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18271" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18270" CreationDate="2021-10-23T03:52:53.090" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;At first glance, this looks like it could be missing layers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are five possible causes for missing layers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Something is off mechanically.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;Check to see if anything has slipped, shifted, moved, or popped out.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Misalignment&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;Check to see that all three axes are properly aligned and haven't shifted. If there is any resistance, something is misaligned, bent, or a problem with the bearings.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Bad Bearings&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;If a bearing is the culprit, it will make some noise. The bearing will also exhibit some uneven motion in the print head.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Lack of Lubrication&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;Check to see if any of the axes are binding in any way. A little, and just a little, bit of sewing machine oil can be the solution.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Under-Extrusion&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;This is a whole different set of problems that requires a new question to get an answer.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For more detailed information, see All3DP.com's article &amp;quot;&lt;a href=&quot;https://all3dp.com/1/common-3d-printing-problems-troubleshooting-3d-printer-issues/#some-layers-are-missing&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;3D Printing Troubleshooting All Common Problems&lt;/a&gt;&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23193" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-10-27T03:05:24.513" LastActivityDate="2021-10-27T03:05:24.513" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18272" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18297" CreationDate="2021-10-23T04:23:38.533" Score="2" ViewCount="810" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've noticed my Ender 3 V2 printing odd little bubbles of material on curves.  Is this over-extrusion?  I'm using Creality PLA at 210 °C with a bed temperature of 60 °C&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uFB8q.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;3D printed model with bubbles on the side&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uFB8q.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;3D printed model with bubbles on the side&quot; title=&quot;3D printed model with bubbles on the side&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The opposite side of the same print, with no problem in the curve.  Yes, I do have lifting at some corners, but this seems to be a different issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FqKbz.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;The opposite side of the previous model with no bubbles&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FqKbz.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;The opposite side of the previous model with no bubbles&quot; title=&quot;The opposite side of the previous model with no bubbles&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This was printing a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3283699&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;center-finder&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's a bit hard to see but here's the same blister-like look on the handles of a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2768626&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;grabber-toy&lt;/a&gt;.   Lighting makes it a bit hard to see, as does printing in black.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Iyv6j.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;A different 3D printed model with bubbles on the sides&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Iyv6j.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;A different 3D printed model with bubbles on the sides&quot; title=&quot;A different 3D printed model with bubbles on the sides&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have calibrated my E-steps; initially, it was extruding 95.5 mm when told to do 100.0 mm.  By changing the printer's numbers, it's now pushing through 100.1 mm when requested to do 100.0 mm.  Is that my cause?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12956" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-10-23T13:10:29.120" LastActivityDate="2021-10-30T03:06:19.100" Title="Pimples/blisters on some curves - cause?" Tags="|creality-ender-3|print-quality|pla|overextrusion|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18273" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-10-23T23:25:14.120" Score="1" ViewCount="123" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm fairly new to 3D printing, but I've had my Ender 3 V2 for some time and have made some upgrades to it, including a BLTouch module and some non-stock firmware that seemed to really help. Now, I can't print a thing and I can't figure out why in the world this would be happening. I am using Marlin-JyersUI v1.3.5. I have taken apart the gantry and rebuilt it to the same effect. Test prints fail on the first layers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would assume that there is possibly something wrong with the X-axis, as when I rotate my glass buildplate, the positioning of this ridge does not flip with it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Igihi.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Mesh Viewer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Igihi.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Mesh Viewer&quot; title=&quot;Mesh Viewer&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31691" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2021-10-24T01:45:25.610" LastActivityDate="2021-10-24T01:45:25.610" Title="Stripe down the middle of BLTouch mesh is somehow not level" Tags="|creality-ender-3|troubleshooting|bltouch|bed|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18275" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18252" CreationDate="2021-10-24T15:25:23.410" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to Uncle Jessy (&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8SWGpY3LlX0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;see Youtube channel&lt;/a&gt;), you simply need to pour some liquid resin over the build plate and then leave it for a couple of minutes for the worst to drip off. No&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;He also recommends that the resin should be kept at a warm room temperature and that the bottle be thoroughly shaken before pouring it onto the build plate or into the resin vat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;He also recommends that resin should not be left to sit in the vat for more than a couple of days as it can settle and separate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="29097" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-10-24T22:45:09.913" LastActivityDate="2021-10-24T22:45:09.913" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18278" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-10-25T13:08:41.787" Score="1" ViewCount="779" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can somebpdy help me as I’m struggling with an issue with my Ender 3 V2 extruder. The extruder is clicking after laying down the 1&lt;sup&gt;st&lt;/sup&gt; layer. The machine had been running with no issues for over 4 months now, I have made various upgrades including BLTouch, tried different hot ends, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm mainly printing TPU and have printed it with no issues using a stock Ender 3 V2. However, last week I was changing the hotend back to stock and accidentally snapped the thermistor wiring. I ordered some replacements as below and replaced the thermistor and hot end back to stock.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Comgrow Creality 3D Printer NTC Thermistor Temp Sensor 100K for Ender 3 / Ender 3 Pro/Ender 5 / CR-10 / CR-10S&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the same time, I removed the BLTouch, and to be honest, I was finding I was getting just as good prints without it on both a 2&lt;sup&gt;nd&lt;/sup&gt; and 3&lt;sup&gt;rd&lt;/sup&gt; printer I have (both Ender 3 V2’s). This meant re-flashing the firmware back to stock.&#xA;So effectively, I now have a stock Ender 3, but it has developed this clicking noise from the extruder after the first layer is laid (1&lt;sup&gt;st&lt;/sup&gt; layer is perfect).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can see the TPU material getting snagged in the extruder when the clicking is occurring, so its clearly not making its way through the hotend and blocking up.&#xA;Can somebody give any advice as to why though? Everything is fine for the 1&lt;sup&gt;st&lt;/sup&gt; layer but then the problem starts halfway through the 2&lt;sup&gt;nd&lt;/sup&gt; or 3&lt;sup&gt;rd&lt;/sup&gt; layer?&#xA;I have calibrated my extruder steps (after re-flashing) and they changed from 93 to 114 (which seemed a big change).&#xA;I'm printing the TPU at 205 °C, and even taking the same file to my other 2 printers has no issue, so I’m not sure what has changed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If somebody can give any advice, it would be most welcome!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31707" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-10-25T14:06:49.870" LastActivityDate="2021-10-29T22:08:27.120" Title="Ender 3 v2 Extruder Clicking Issue" Tags="|creality-ender-3|extruder|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18280" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8020" CreationDate="2021-10-25T16:58:14.250" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know this is a pretty old discussion, but I had the same trouble recently.  In my case, it think it could be a pattern caused by the extruder gears biting into the filament.  I found that the problem seemed to be worse with increased retractions.  That makes some sense to me, the more retractions you let the slicer make, the more the extruder gears are going to go back and forth through the same length of filament.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To try and confirm this, I turned off retraction completely and cut off and removed the filament that was already past the extruder (this length of filament was presumably marred by many retractions, the filament outside of the extruder would've been clean).  My resulting print still had the pattern but not nearly as contrasted and obvious.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did try adjusting accel, jerk and print speed and the pattern didn't seem to change in frequency with any of that, so that led me to the extruder gears which are constant.  I was also going to test if my hotend fan was contributing vibration artifacts but haven't gotten around to it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not sure there's much else that can be done with this.  Maybe some filaments would have less of an issue than others.  It's possible the issue is more obvious on a dual gear extruder?  A single gear extruder will only bite into one side, which might be a bit more hidden.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31712" LastActivityDate="2021-10-25T16:58:14.250" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18281" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18278" CreationDate="2021-10-26T11:59:56.563" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Very likely the clicking is from the TPU slipping in the extruder driver gear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;TPU needs a much slower speed than other plastics, make sure you are using an extrusion speed that is reasonable for TPU.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming you are extruding TPU at the correct speed, there are many reasons that could cause the extruder to get clogged.  A few might include:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;too small of clearance between the nozzle and the preceding layer (or not enough height above the bed for the initial layer)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;debris in the nozzle (especially if you are switching plastics with a higher melting point or a lower char point)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;too low of a temperature (i.e., melted plastic is too viscous)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;gap inside the extruder between the Bowden tube and the hot end causing molten plastic to back up and solidify and bind with the cold filament&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other questions here may answer the clogging issue better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28397" LastEditorUserId="28397" LastEditDate="2021-10-29T22:08:27.120" LastActivityDate="2021-10-29T22:08:27.120" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18283" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18270" CreationDate="2021-10-26T14:53:02.413" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If hardware failures have been excluded (and they can be as subtle as &amp;quot;a broken wire only loses contact at this particular Z height&amp;quot;, so don't be too quick to assume that), then the likely reason for a problem like this is &lt;strong&gt;bad geometry&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you move from Blender to Cura, Blender exports a triangle mesh, which defines &lt;em&gt;surfaces&lt;/em&gt;. Cura then has to read that triangle mesh and figure out which &lt;em&gt;volumes&lt;/em&gt; should be filled with plastic. In order to do this reliably, the triangle mesh needs to completely enclose a volume (“be watertight” in the jargon), but it's easy for 3D tools meant for graphics (such as Blender) to produce models which&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;don't&lt;/em&gt; completely enclose a volume, but have small gaps,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;have triangles that intersect but not at their vertices, or&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;have parts that intersect other parts.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If any of these cases occurs, then the slicer may get confused about what the interior and exterior of the model is, and produce incorrect layers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not familiar with the functionality of Cura (I use PrusaSlicer), but if I had this problem, what I would want to do is look at the &lt;em&gt;preview of the extrusions,&lt;/em&gt; inspecting it layer-by-layer to see if the place where the physical error is also has missing extrusion lines in the slicer's preview. If so, then this is almost certainly due to a geometry error in the mesh.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this is the case, then to fix it, you could:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Go back to Blender, find the bad area and edit it to be properly closed off.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Or, use a separate repair tool intended to fix common mesh problems.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10321" LastActivityDate="2021-10-26T14:53:02.413" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18284" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15088" CreationDate="2021-10-26T22:06:46.793" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can make it biodegradable but it is very hard you need oxygen a temperature of 140+ degrees and a 2/3 cocktail of organic substrate these are usually absent outside of a industrial composting facility.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had the same question when I got my printer - it's better to just buy recycled filament or recycle your own but PLA is a byproduct of milk production so its pretty naturally sourced anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31736" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2021-10-27T01:48:17.500" LastActivityDate="2021-10-27T01:48:17.500" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18285" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18286" CreationDate="2021-10-27T12:44:49.727" Score="2" ViewCount="452" Body="&lt;p&gt;In PrusaSlicer-2.3.3, when there are two instances of an object closer than the support width, the intersecting surface is filled twice; this is what you can see in the center of the picture. The outer perimeters are indeed correct, but the intersection is printed twice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It would not be so problematic if this was just for one or two layers, but it's also doing it higher, i.e at the support level, and it ruined the print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So in PrusaSlicer, how do I slice several objects as one object?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/H6dUa.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;PrusaSlicer preview of a sliced 3D model&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/H6dUa.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;PrusaSlicer preview of a sliced 3D model&quot; title=&quot;PrusaSlicer preview of a sliced 3D model&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18571" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-10-27T13:17:42.247" LastActivityDate="2021-10-28T21:37:56.480" Title="Instances won't share support or brim" Tags="|prusaslicer|support-material|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18286" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18285" CreationDate="2021-10-28T07:25:21.537" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found the &lt;a href=&quot;https://forum.prusaprinters.org/forum/original-prusa-i3-mk3s-mk3-how-do-i-print-this-printing-help/overlapping-objects-in-prusa-slicer/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;relevant answer here&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Did you load them as separate objects (which will do what you describe and is wrong) or add the second one as a sub part of the first object (right click, add part-&amp;gt;load)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The latter takes occlusion into account and clips overlapping areas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is what I learned: you can't merge Prusa &amp;quot;instances&amp;quot;, they are just a replay of the same G-code&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I assume it is a really useful feature if you want to say, fill the bed with dozen of instances of the same product, if you're happy with the settings and you don't want to mess with it. This will just replicate the same g-code at some other place; that makes sense in a production setting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, if you're still building  then:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do hard copies (copy paste), reload the same file, or right click on an object, and Add Part / Load. You can merge those ones (as in: CTRL + click / a.k.a multiple selection), right click / merge , and they will slice as expected (as a whole)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keywords were : overlapping objects, composite object, redundant tool paths&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, there seems to be a bug in the prusaslicer UI, as you can't reverse the Merge - the objects look like they're trapped under the Merged object once you've committed to it.  Set as separate objects is grayed here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18571" LastEditorUserId="18571" LastEditDate="2021-10-28T21:37:56.480" LastActivityDate="2021-10-28T21:37:56.480" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18288" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18291" CreationDate="2021-10-28T13:11:54.453" Score="2" ViewCount="128" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Creality CR-6 SE running &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/CR6Community/Marlin&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Community firmware&lt;/a&gt;. It's printing mostly well, in part because it's improvisationally enclosed (sheets of cardboard between it and the closes window to reduce draft, which was killing my prints on bad days). To make it moderately shock-resistant it's placed on a 50x50 cm concrete tile which is placed on 3 mm of foam. The foam reduces vibrations being redirected to the tile while the tile is heavy enough not to care either way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Lrs4r.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Lrs4r.png&quot; alt=&quot;CR-6, concrete tile, foam&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now it has to move because I want to move my desk into the same room as the printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This means 2 things:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;My and my printer will be getting their required ventilation from the same window, but sitting in the same room as a printer for 8+ hours a day isn't a great idea if we breathe the same air. Either I need to scrub the printer exhaust or pipe it out (totally doable, it's not that far).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Either I have to sit very quietly or the printer has to be placed somewhat shock-proof. The floor itself is of wood and on the first floor, so there's some minor bounce in it. It's not 100% level and it gets (slightly) worse if you stand next to it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've been thinking about making a towered enclosure (roughly like the famous Lack approach). However, if I construct a tower, the increased position vector between ground and printer could make the printer shake. Besides, a simple Lack won't work because PLA won't like being confined. Where other materials like getting hot, PLA likes to be ventilated. The obvious solution would be a couple of fans that can be shut-off and covered, but maybe I'm thinking too complicated already. Either way, that's a fixable problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See-through sheet work is likely going to be done with 2mm plexiglass (acrylic, PMMA).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm currently printing PLA 100% of the time but the enclosure should be able to handle PLA, ABS, and PETG. There's a Raspberry Pi available, so requiring different settings for different materials is not a problem either.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I can fix all problems, except the shock one. More fans mean more vibrations, so it will get plenty of shocks by itself. Add the shocks of me walking past it, especially if the printer is in a tower, and you can wait for failed prints.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've seen people put their printers on springs, but is that the best way to deal with it in enclosures? Would it make sense to put the tower on top of the existing foam/concrete base or would it be better to catch the shocks as close to the printer as possible?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4897" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-10-28T14:19:38.433" LastActivityDate="2021-10-28T17:34:04.197" Title="Shocks and enclosures" Tags="|enclosure|creality-cr-6|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18289" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18290" CreationDate="2021-10-28T15:17:22.480" Score="7" ViewCount="1446" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can you convert a 3D printer to a laser engraver?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If so is there a specific thing I have to buy?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31762" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-10-28T20:20:37.317" LastActivityDate="2021-11-01T09:05:29.407" Title="Convert 3D printer to laser engraver" Tags="|diy-3d-printer|laser|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18290" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18289" CreationDate="2021-10-28T16:00:42.777" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, one can convert a 3D printer into a Laser Engraver, and it isn't even all that problematic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You'd need to acquire a laser diode. These are usually not available with a lot of power - certainly not the hundreds of Watts that come from a proper CO2 laser - but depending on your printer, it might be pretty much a bolt-on addon.&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The conversion isn't &lt;em&gt;too&lt;/em&gt; invasive, and takes much less time than building a printer from a set. &lt;a href=&quot;https://all3dp.com/2/ender-3-laser-engraver-upgrade-all-you-need-to-know/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;All3D&lt;/a&gt; converted an Ender-3 to have a laser within less than an hour. In their step-by-step guide, they wired it into the 5V part cooling fan port of their printer. Whatever laser diode you choose, the setup will be similar, as long as your diode works with 5 Volt power.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Once installed on the physical side, you will need to prepare your prints with a different &amp;quot;Slicer&amp;quot; that uses the commands for the fan speed as powers for the laser:&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M107.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;code&gt;M106 S&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/a&gt; sets the power to S, where S is a number from 0 to 255 ; Without an S value, it turns on to the last setting (if turned off via &lt;code&gt;M107&lt;/code&gt;)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M107.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;code&gt;M107&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/a&gt; turns off the laser.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One such slicer would be &lt;a href=&quot;https://forums.creality3dofficial.com/download/software/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Creality Workshop&lt;/a&gt;, which would work with any Marlin-run printer, as long as you use the fan as the diode's power source.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastActivityDate="2021-10-28T16:00:42.777" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18291" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18288" CreationDate="2021-10-28T16:35:11.387" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;First, let's get your physics straight:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To make it moderately shock-resistant it's placed on a 50x50 cm concrete tile which is placed on 3 mm of foam. The foam reduces vibrations being redirected to the tile while the tile is heavy enough not to care either way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No. The concrete tile gives your printer &lt;strong&gt;mass&lt;/strong&gt; by adding its own to it. Mass by itself results in shifting the point resonance (and thus ringing) occurs, and in conjunction with a flexible mounting (the foam) results in the resonance window getting shifted out of the window where it can be problematic. Nothing about redirecting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, to your problems:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Enclosure&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want an enclosure, you can mount it directly onto the concrete tile, or you include the buffered concrete in the enclosure. Totally up to you. If you exhaust it, just adding a big PC fan to the back and then a flexible tube to the window to get rid of warmth if you need would be enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Dampener&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3 mm is &lt;strong&gt;way&lt;/strong&gt; too little. You should get at least one of those rubber mats from the home depot that is put under washing machines. Those thick rubber pads are usually 10 to 20 mm thick and would decouple the printer movement very well from steps on the floor. You might even want more of a different, softer foam between that rubber pad and the concrete tile.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2021-10-28T17:34:04.197" LastActivityDate="2021-10-28T17:34:04.197" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18292" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18289" CreationDate="2021-10-28T17:39:16.593" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Probably a laser... and a mount for the laser. Then connect its power supply to be switched by the extruder supply/signal. Also, there would be no need for any Z-axis movement, beyond setting the correct height of the laser device.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, unless you are handy with DIY, messing about with microcontrollers and electronics, modifying firmware and have experience in making your own 3D printer, then it is probably easier to just buy a ready built engraver.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, and after reading Trish's (more technically detailed and accurate) answer, it probably isn't all that daunting to accomplish. In addition, if you &lt;em&gt;already&lt;/em&gt; have a printer, then a modification would be cheaper than buying a whole new unit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a handy video tutorial, which shows how easy it, in fact, is: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hEk3aVARSGc&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;3D printer to laser engraver for under $60&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/hEk3aVARSGc?start=0&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This unit was tested on the Creality Ender 5, but the plug should work for any Creality printer like the Ender 3 and CR-10&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This modification also uses the &lt;em&gt;part cooling fan&lt;/em&gt; to control the laser and there is no need to remove the extruder - the laser attaches itself by the use of magnets to the extruder. So you can have a &lt;em&gt;dual-purpose printer&lt;/em&gt; without that much fuss at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The website used to generate the G-code is &lt;a href=&quot;http://nebarnix.com/img2gco/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://nebarnix.com/img2gco/&lt;/a&gt;, and it takes a simple image file as input. The settings recommended by the video are as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/D72Iz.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Generating the G-code for the laser&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/D72Iz.png&quot; alt=&quot;Generating the G-code for the laser&quot; title=&quot;Generating the G-code for the laser&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: As pointed out in the video, the minimum power should &lt;strong&gt;not&lt;/strong&gt; be zero as this turns off the laser, thereby incurring a delay upon restart. Setting the power to a sufficiently low level - so as not to burn - is preferable, i.e. 10.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4762" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2021-10-28T19:52:17.590" LastActivityDate="2021-10-28T19:52:17.590" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18294" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18189" CreationDate="2021-10-29T12:01:54.763" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You may generate a .stl file from your mathematical definition. You may write a program using a language of your choice to compute the .stl file.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your image shows a lot of rectangles, each rectangle may be described as two triangles. The .stl file is a (very long) list of all that triangles. Each triangle is defined by the X, Y, and Z coordinates of the three corners.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;solid name&#xA;&#xA;facet normal ni nj nk&#xA;    outer loop&#xA;        vertex v1x v1y v1z&#xA;        vertex v2x v2y v2z&#xA;        vertex v3x v3y v3z&#xA;    endloop&#xA;endfacet&#xA;&#xA;endsolid name&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Each n or v is a floating-point number in sign-mantissa-&amp;quot;e&amp;quot;-sign-exponent format, e.g., &amp;quot;2.648000e-002&amp;quot;. The triangle vertices should be sorted using the &amp;quot;right-hand rule&amp;quot;, i.e. the vertices are listed in counter-clockwise order from outside.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The normal vector ni nj nk is set to zero.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The G-code file is generated from the .stl file using the slicing software for your 3D printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/STL_(file_format)&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/STL_(file_format)&lt;/a&gt; for details.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="29373" LastEditorUserId="29373" LastEditDate="2021-10-29T15:16:28.547" LastActivityDate="2021-10-29T15:16:28.547" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18295" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18327" CreationDate="2021-10-29T15:57:32.277" Score="4" ViewCount="611" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is it possible to 3D print a QR code? or to engrave it using a 3D printer? I tried to convert it to individual boxes but that takes too long and is very inaccurate. Is there a better way?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31762" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-10-29T17:32:54.020" LastActivityDate="2021-11-04T12:07:50.920" Title="QR code 3D printing" Tags="|3d-models|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18297" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18272" CreationDate="2021-10-30T02:55:58.040" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;After much faffing about, I've discovered that OctoPrint is the cause, or specifically running it on underpowered hardware.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I originally thought that OctoPrint sent the job to the printer's internal SD card and it printed from there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That is incorrect, OctoPrint feeds G-code to the printer.  And since I'm using a sub-standard Pi B+, it does not have the resources to keep up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By attaching a webcam, I doubled down on the resource contention and made it worse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/e1tXJ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/e1tXJ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Own work&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically, the OctoPrint minimum-spec is there for a reason, disregard it at your own risk.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The test object can be found at  &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.tinkercad.com/things/1vjIJXoQkde&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.tinkercad.com/things/1vjIJXoQkde&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;and has 5 half-barrels with different segment counts.  I originally noticed that the smoother curves suffered worse, and was testing that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12956" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-10-30T03:06:19.100" LastActivityDate="2021-10-30T03:06:19.100" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18298" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5961" CreationDate="2021-10-30T02:57:22.690" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm in the same boat as you, was contemplating spending $2000 on a shredder, and I was inspired by this RepRap article &amp;quot;&lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/wiki/Plastic_Shredder_using_Kitchen_Blender&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Plastic Shredder using Kitchen Blender&lt;/a&gt;&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In which someone cleverly reminds us that thermoplastics melt. Put them on a baking tray on baking paper:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HIEWa.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Failed 3D prints on a baking tray&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HIEWa.png&quot; alt=&quot;Failed 3D prints on a baking tray&quot; title=&quot;Failed 3D prints on a baking tray&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Melt them in the oven at a high temperature until they're pancakes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/t1rzY.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Melted plastic models&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/t1rzY.png&quot; alt=&quot;Melted plastic models&quot; title=&quot;Melted plastic models&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The link puts them in a kitchen blender, but I've had success with a $70 micro-cut paper shredder from a local office supply store. The plastic puddles have a thin edge, which helps them fit into a shredder rated for &amp;quot;5 sheets of A4 at a time&amp;quot; (suggesting 0.3 mm max) but can process about 2 mm thick plastic if it gets a good lead-in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The micro-cut particles it puts out are smaller than the PLA beads. I do mix recycled and virgin plastic together in varying ratios but mixing them evenly (especially with the dye beads) is tricky - it's very hard to get precise even colouring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At 1.25 g/cc, 1 kg of PLA in an oven dish ~A4 sized is about 1.4 cm thick. So, aiming for about 100 g of plastic per dish will get you blobs averaging 1.4 mm. That fits through the shredder fine. 10 blobs make 1 kg of filament.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only issue I have with the cheap office shredder is when you feed something slightly too thick in, occasionally the teeth deform the plastic into a chunk too big to fit into the shredder for a second pass, so that piece needs to go back into the melt queue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31781" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-10-30T03:12:20.033" LastActivityDate="2021-10-30T03:12:20.033" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18299" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18254" CreationDate="2021-10-30T11:45:24.420" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;For a good adhesion the print bed should be free of any oil or fat. Wipe the print bed with pure alcohol just befor the start of printing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="29373" LastActivityDate="2021-10-30T11:45:24.420" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18300" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18302" CreationDate="2021-10-30T21:23:20.003" Score="2" ViewCount="842" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an Anet A8 clone printer. I see the throat tube is different on each end. I'm trying to ensure I understand which end should go up and which should go down. To me, it appears (from the photo below) the one on the right is the proper orientation (teflon down, metal up). Is this correct?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gju30.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gju30.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a couple of reasons I ask this question. First, I had the teflon oriented up, and one time the teflon pulled out of the tube while I was pulling the filament out after a print was finished. Secondly, I recently experienced where melted filament was leaking from between heater block and the throat tube right after I replace the tube and nozzle. This was with the teflon down. In this case I think I didn't have the tube tight enough in the heater block (tightened against the nozzle) so there was room for hot filament to ooze out and up past the tube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11242" LastActivityDate="2021-10-31T11:00:06.317" Title="Which way should the throat tube be oriented?" Tags="|anet-a8|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18302" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18300" CreationDate="2021-10-31T01:16:53.720" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The PTFE liner should be in contact with the nozzle. Normally, they are cut about half a millimetre too long, to ensure that good contact with the nozzle is made. I used these throats for several years before I switched to an all-metal hot end. If you take care to tighten the nozzle with the hot end at the highest working temperature that you intend to use, you should have no problems with leaking filament.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3953" LastEditorUserId="3953" LastEditDate="2021-10-31T11:00:06.317" LastActivityDate="2021-10-31T11:00:06.317" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18303" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-10-31T03:55:49.283" Score="2" ViewCount="223" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got an Ender 3 with 1.1.4 mainboard - recently bought a Creality BLTouch (v2 because of the 8-bit board), fitted, flashed the firmware (1.1.6) and all appears to be working... however...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I get random 'red flashing' during the auto bed leveling process, I can't spot a particular pattern, and it doesn't always react the same way. In a majority of cases, the BLTouch starts flashing and appears to pause and then retries and carries on. It's almost as if there's a communications issue and it has to perform a mini-reset and then retries.  I've had a couple of occasions where it's thrown the bed leveling out completely, but the majority of the time it manages to keep going and works.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to work out where the issue is, if it was bad wiring, I'd expect it to happen on a much more regular basis. As it is, I'll get one clean run in about five. And when there's an issue, it's at a single (random) point in the nine probe points.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm suspicious that the issue is a timing issue because the board is an 8-bit board and possibly an issue with the firmware? I'm very tempted to try out other Marlin firmware versions, or possibly even Klipper (I've got a Pi 4 running OctoPrint).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just wondering if anyone has any thoughts on this or steps to diagnose/put right.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31798" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-10-31T04:01:54.980" LastActivityDate="2021-10-31T04:01:54.980" Title="Ender 3 BLTouch working but with random red flashing?" Tags="|bltouch|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18306" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-10-31T13:20:27.973" Score="1" ViewCount="478" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm having difficulty with pitting/cratering on some of my prints when I remove supports.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've tried several different removal methods, including removing supports prior to curing, soaking my prints in hot water before removing them, and using clippers or an extremely sharp craft knife, but while this has helped a little I'm still not getting an optimal finish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The next thing that I'm going to try is to reduce the contact depth of my supports.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Aside from trial and error, is there any mechanism that I can use to help me determine the optimal contact depth?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm using Chitubox, which does show stress areas in red, but it either shows an area as high stress of low stress, with nothing in between, and doesn't provide any real help when it comes to selecting the right depth to use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm mostly printing models of my own design, so there isn't an &amp;quot;expert&amp;quot; available to give me the benefits of their experience with these models.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="29097" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2023-11-24T18:31:24.470" LastActivityDate="2023-12-24T19:04:25.530" Title="Are there any mechanisms to determine the optimal contact depth for supports on a Resin printer?" Tags="|resin|support-structures|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18307" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18306" CreationDate="2021-10-31T18:45:51.787" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The contact depth of your supports is mostly unrelated to the pitting you experience. When the model is sliced, the contact point becomes homogeneous with the rest of the model at that layer. Changing the depth will also change the contact area, based on the taper length of the support end.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Consider that the layer orientation may play a factor in the &amp;quot;damage&amp;quot; done to the surface of the model.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have an arbitrary shape with the bottom surface parallel to the vat/resin and add a support, the support will taper from the support stalk diameter to the contact point diameter and then transition to the bottom surface area.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Such a taper creates a convenient stress point for removing the support. This happens at a layer slice, allowing the support to break free and leave the least amount of damage on the surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any other angle between the support and the model surface creates a less-than-linear break. Possibly the most damage will result from a horizontal support attaching to a small feature that also tapers toward the attach point. Will it break at the support point or will it destroy the tip of the model?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regarding the reduction of support diameters: I've done so with the result the model snapping free during print. Insufficient strength with the smaller tips means a complete model failure. Larger tips allow the model to print properly, but post-processing is increased, of course.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastActivityDate="2021-10-31T18:45:51.787" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18308" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-10-31T19:03:30.453" Score="0" ViewCount="35" Body="&lt;p&gt;3D objects can be defined mathematically using so-called &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Parametric_surface&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;parametric surfaces&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Surface_triangulation&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Turning&lt;/a&gt; them into a &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Polygon_mesh&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;polygon mesh&lt;/a&gt; introduces slight imperfections.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can 3D printer software deal with parametric surfaces, i.e. take into account the intended parametric surface and how to use the 3D printer to approximate it well, or can it only open polygon meshes?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10533/slicing-directly-from-non-mesh-data&quot;&gt;Here&lt;/a&gt; is a related question about implicit surfaces or voxel grids (as opposed to parametric surfaces).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28509" LastActivityDate="2021-10-31T19:03:30.453" Title="How to discretize parametric surfaces as late as possible" Tags="|software|surface|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18309" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-10-31T20:01:54.403" Score="3" ViewCount="37" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an Elegoo Saturn and have just completed a print using standard Elegoo gray resin. I saw what I though was the remains of a failed support sticking out of my print but upon looking closer it is a sliver of metal swarf approximately 5-6mm long and 1/2mm wide. It looked &amp;quot;visually similar&amp;quot; to drill swarf from aluminium or low grade stainless. It was incorporated into the side of the model rather than sitting on the surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have checked my build plate and the metal scraper that I use to remove models from the plate (Still in the draw so not used in over a week) but wasn't able to find any damage to either so they are unlikely sources, the sliver is of such a size that I should easily be able to see damage to one of the other (My FEP is undamaged, which was a relief).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The metal was silver in color and so is unlikely to have come from my Vat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I keep the plastic cover on my printer at all times except when I'm preparing it for a print, removing a print or cleaning it, so it is not likely to have pinged in from elsewhere. I don't do metal crafts at all, so it isn't contamination from another project that I've been doing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have considered that I may have received a contaminated batch of resin. I'm near the bottom of the bottle so it's plausible that it could have been in there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this something that is known to happen with this model of printer or with Elegoo printers in general, and are there any other likely sources for a sliver of silver colored metal where I could look for damage?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="29097" LastActivityDate="2021-10-31T20:01:54.403" Title="Possible sources for a sliver of metal found embedded into a resin print?" Tags="|maintenance|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18310" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19374" CreationDate="2021-11-01T03:56:47.360" Score="3" ViewCount="2056" Body="&lt;p&gt;Has anyone been able to dye sublimate 3D printed objects? Which materials work and what products are necessary?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've been trying to find out and apparently it is supposed to be possible. But I'm not finding more detail than that. (Actually, a lot of sites say it isn't possible)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31811" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-11-01T13:14:53.093" LastActivityDate="2022-10-03T09:20:37.527" Title="Dye sublimation printing on 3D printed object" Tags="|color|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18312" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18314" CreationDate="2021-11-01T16:29:14.127" Score="3" ViewCount="733" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm having a very odd problem where my part is not sticking to the raft.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm using support material, with a very large overhang angle (70°). However I don't think this is the cause, as the side of the wheel that is on the build plate is several mm wide, and flat at that end. I need the 70° for a weird tread pattern that I have that only needs to be supported on the very first one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm using PLA, with a nozzle temperature of 200 °C and a bed temperature of 50 °C.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've checked that the part is snapping to the build plate, so there isn't a gap between the part and the raft, at least not modeled to be. Looking at the slicer (Cura) it seems as though there's a 2 layer gap between my part and the first layer of my wheel, but I'm not sure why it's there? or how to remove that gap&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ib3uo.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ib3uo.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Layer 5&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;Layer 5&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NIbZc.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NIbZc.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Layer 6&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;Layer 6&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nYpKq.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nYpKq.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Layer 7&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;Layer 7&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My assumption is that, if I can remove this, everything will work?? The part as it's being printed right now is looking like this, for the first layer of the part. As you can see here, my wheel is very not round.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LKiBm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LKiBm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;First layer of part&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5518" LastEditorUserId="5518" LastEditDate="2021-11-02T15:19:06.607" LastActivityDate="2021-11-02T15:19:06.607" Title="Part not adhering to the raft" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|adhesion|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18313" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14488" CreationDate="2021-11-01T22:42:44.160" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;After some testing, I can say that any oil is a bad option.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've found that light oils tend to soak into and &lt;strong&gt;through&lt;/strong&gt; any 3D printed FDM parts because of the small voids between lines and in turns and corners.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is possible that resin-printed parts could be more oil-resistant, but I don't have any for testing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12956" LastActivityDate="2021-11-01T22:42:44.160" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18314" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18312" CreationDate="2021-11-02T01:01:43.807" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I reviewed the G-Code and there was a Z-layer command that was larger than what was supposed to be. The Z-layer change shifted the nozzle up by 3x the distance it was supposed to (0.84 mm instead of 0.28 mm). I changed it to be just the layer distance and the print worked. I have NO idea why this happened, but a solution is a solution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Interestingly though layers 6 and 7 in the images above were both at the same layer height, but the post-processing viewer identified them as two different layers. They were both at the same Z-value but were called out as different layers even though there was no change in the Z-value in the G-Code.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5518" LastActivityDate="2021-11-02T01:01:43.807" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18315" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-11-02T02:27:43.830" Score="1" ViewCount="276" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am 3D printing a drone and I need very good tolerances for the holes so the arms and motors align correctly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have two sets of 4 holes for two solid objects (Imported as STEP)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to align the two objects perfectly and possibly by using constraints. I was already able to create new Parts from the two .step files and draw sketches where the holes are.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I do this in Freecad?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/coaKP.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/coaKP.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27179" LastEditorUserId="27179" LastEditDate="2021-11-05T02:25:25.867" LastActivityDate="2021-11-05T09:11:49.167" Title="How do you marry two object's holes in Freecad? 3D printing a drone" Tags="|3d-design|cad|freecad|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18316" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-11-02T14:04:36.630" Score="3" ViewCount="2373" Body="&lt;p&gt;Recently I noticed a small issue with my Creality Ender 3, where I would come home and find one of the bed leveling wheels had fallen off. This one wheel keeps vibrating loose. It's not really affecting my prints for some reason, so I just kind of let it happen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yesterday I started an 8 hour print and left. When I came home, I heard a loud buzzing noise. I walk into my room and smell a burning smell. I see the printer has extruded plastic all over the place. PLA is all over the floor. The plastic its extruding is normal filament, not extruded plastic; the nozzle is gone. Not entirely sure how it came out, because it was tight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I switch off the printer and assess the damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The nozzle is on the floor, covered in a big blob of plastic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The stock fiberglass build plate is nowhere to be seen; I think it fell behind the desk the printer is on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The friction surface below the plate is covered with scratches and blobs of plastic - that needs to be replaced as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Two of the bed leveling wheels are gone. One is on the floor, and the other probably fell behind the desk like the build plate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The hotend fan has filament going through it. It's missing three blades. Two of them fell on the floor, and one fell into the hotend and melted, making the burning smell.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The hotend is &lt;em&gt;covered&lt;/em&gt; in melted plastic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The heater block has lots of plastic jamming the hole where the nozzle goes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Where do I go from here? How do I fix this?&#xA;Is this fixable?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What should I do to make sure this doesn't happen again?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28485" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2021-11-02T23:26:49.090" LastActivityDate="2021-11-03T00:47:48.667" Title="Ender 3 destroyed itself... HELP!" Tags="|creality-ender-3|troubleshooting|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18317" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18316" CreationDate="2021-11-02T14:35:22.563" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;From your description, it looks like you need a new hot end (inexpensive and readily available wherever you bought your Ender 3 -- it'll include a 0.4 mm nozzle, but it wouldn't be a bad thing to get some spares -- a new fan to replace the broken one (same), and a slight change of technique in leveling your bed.  The hot bed is fine, as long as the heater and thermistor aren't damaged -- that aluminum surface is only there to support the build surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll want to adjust or modify the Z-stop switch bracket to lower the bed a couple millimeters, in order to be able to tighten all four adjusting knobs completely and then back them off about 2-3 turns, and still get correct bed clearance.  Setting your leveling this way will leave enough compression in the springs that the knobs won't move (as much) when the machine is running; you'll only need to reset the clearance every 2-3 prints instead of having it go out before you finish a print.  You might also consider buying a set of four nuts to jam against the knobs when the bed is properly set; that will fully lock the leveling knobs and may mean you only have to adjust the bed when you change filament material or replace a nozzle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From my own experience, I'd also recommend getting a glass build surface (see above for cost and availability -- you shouldn't be up to $50 in parts yet even with the new surface), and planning to use the uncoated side.  A couple glue sticks and a bottle of 91% isopropyl alcohol will complete the upgrade on the bed side (and the thickness of the glass might mean you don't need to modify your Z-stop mount).  If the clamps that came with your fiberglass surface are gone or not large enough for the glass, you can get larger ones at any office supply store.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28508" LastActivityDate="2021-11-02T14:35:22.563" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18318" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13676" CreationDate="2021-11-02T17:39:49.453" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Anycubic 4Max Pro appears to be a direct drive printer (extruder motor is right on top of hotend). The 6.5 mm retraction on in your slicer settings is more typical of a Bowden setup, where the extruder motor lives off of the moving carriage, and has to move extra to compensate for slack in the tube to the hotend. Direct drive retraction distance is typically 1 mm to 3 mm. I bet you can retract faster than 25 mm/s- the speed matters. Also, 60 mm/s travel speed is quite slow. 150 mm/s is typical. Faster travel means less time to ooze.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your initial layer print speed of 20mm/s is good, slow slow makes the first layer stick better. I don’t see your 1st layer thickness setting, but I have had good success with using a thick first layer with a chunky, wide line width (like 150% of nozzle size), even if the following layers are fine. The idea being that more plastic and height in the initial layer makes it less temperamental as far as bed leveling goes, and it holds together nicely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The cobweb-like lines are from the Combing Mode setting in Cura, that ignores the retraction when traveling through infill. Unfortunately there is a setting that also ignores retraction on the bottom layer, you want to change that under “combing mode” it is set to “not in skin”, or combing is set to off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27077" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-11-02T20:57:13.157" LastActivityDate="2021-11-02T20:57:13.157" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18319" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18189" CreationDate="2021-11-02T21:11:44.973" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not sure what you're asking exactly, but you can use this workflow:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;SideFX Houdini: math function + STL file generation&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/28jr1.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/28jr1.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/E0Itn.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/E0Itn.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;(optional) FreeCAD: Import STL as mesh, do whatever you need to do in FreeCAD, export to STL&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/txRno.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/txRno.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a slicer: import the STL and slice it.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ofydl.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ofydl.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zCxgG.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zCxgG.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18571" LastActivityDate="2021-11-02T21:11:44.973" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18320" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16440" CreationDate="2021-11-02T22:21:22.017" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cura will import a picture and use it as a heightmap to build a 3d object.&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fMb0F.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fMb0F.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a few options available when importing :&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7xmEU.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7xmEU.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can even export back the data as STL if you need to process the mesh. Here is the mesh exported in STL, opened in SideFX Houdini: &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/F8AGV.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/F8AGV.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18571" LastEditorUserId="18571" LastEditDate="2021-11-02T23:02:32.303" LastActivityDate="2021-11-02T23:02:32.303" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18321" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18316" CreationDate="2021-11-03T00:47:48.667" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;To address the second question &lt;strong&gt;&amp;quot;How to stop this happening again&amp;quot;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should check-in on your printer more often, get someone at home to look, or find some way to monitor it remotely/automatically.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're at home, just go look at it periodically.  I'm tempted to move the printer into the room where I am more, but the noise upsets the dog so I've left it running in the garage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're out, there are plenty of camera solutions, though be wary of privacy.  Personally I use a cheap USB webcam attached to a Pi running octoprint, and I check the picture stream from work, and can stop the print if it starts going badly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There exist optional modules like &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thespaghettidetective.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;SpaghettiDetective&lt;/a&gt; which can monitor that same stream and decide if it's all going wrong.   I've not used this yet, but its on the todo list.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12956" LastActivityDate="2021-11-03T00:47:48.667" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18324" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18270" CreationDate="2021-11-03T12:12:37.023" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Blender is not to blame. You're drawing a wrong conclusion here. (as stated in a comment of yours)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From your Cura file, I extacted the 3d model as a STL file, and it looks like this: &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VxPD1.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VxPD1.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Nothing wrong with it, it just a water tight triangulated mesh.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cura produces a correct tool path, nothing remarkable there either.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NHhrW.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NHhrW.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Pq0aS.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Pq0aS.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The red marks on both pictures indicate where the infill lines meet the perimeter walls.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also see that the part is already really close to delaminating mid print on lower layers (all of the yellow marks indicate places where it looks like that layer tried to peel but eventually didn't fail to the same extent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should try to optimize the settings of your slicer in the (filament temperature, print speed, layer height, cooling) space.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Prusa slicer has a feature related to infill sticking to walls, called Length of the infill anchor:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://help.prusa3d.com/en/article/infill_42&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://help.prusa3d.com/en/article/infill_42&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9Jzfn.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9Jzfn.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;I didn't find a similar concept in Cura; maybe it could help for your setup, if nothing else works.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, you have elephant feet (bootom yello square bracket)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18571" LastActivityDate="2021-11-03T12:12:37.023" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18325" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18270" CreationDate="2021-11-03T13:49:36.147" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This looks to me just like standard poor reliability of the Ender 3's stock extruder, which is ungeared (torque too low), poorly tensioned, and insufficiently grips the filament (due to flat hob whose teeth only touch the filament in a single point).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you've had success with other models in the past, is is possible that they were more intricate shapes with small details? My guess is that you have the print speed set higher than your extruder can reliably deliver, but due to acceleration limits, the requested top speed was rarely or never achieved for the models you printed successfully. Now that you're trying to print something with long, straight lines, the toolhead does have time to accelerate to (or closer to) the requested speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You didn't mention what material you're printing. If it's PETG, you're just going to have to go a lot slower with the Ender 3's stock extruder. If it's PLA, you might be able to get it to work by increasing the temperature significantly (possibly a tradeoff with other problems). If the speeds you have to drop to for reliable printing end up not being acceptable, look at getting a decent extruder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2021-11-03T13:49:36.147" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18326" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18295" CreationDate="2021-11-04T03:20:39.730" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;From the excellent Thingiverse link, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4967931&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Customizable QR Keyring or Tag&lt;/a&gt; by &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/outwardb/designs&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;em&gt;OutwardB&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/a&gt; - which was provided in the (now deleted) &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/18296/4762&quot;&gt;link-only answer&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;h3&gt;Create the QR code&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Go to &lt;a href=&quot;https://qrcode-monkey.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;QRCode Monkey&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Only change the Content settings&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;DO NOT change the color, logo or design settings&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Click &lt;strong&gt;Create QR Code&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Click &lt;strong&gt;Download PNG&lt;/strong&gt; and wait for the file to download&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;h3&gt;Convert to SVG&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Go to &lt;a href=&quot;https://convertio.co/png-svg/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;PNG to SVG Converter&lt;/a&gt; and convert the PNG image you just downloaded to a .SVG file&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;h3&gt;Customise in OpenSCAD&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will need &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/download:10312157&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;code&gt;QR_Code_Customizer_V01_2.scad&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/a&gt; from the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4967931/files&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;files&#xA;repository on Thingverse&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Download OpenSCAD from here and install it - &lt;a href=&quot;https://openscad.org/downloads.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://openscad.org/downloads.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Put the downloaded SVG file in the same folder as the .SCAD file from this page&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Double-click the .SCAD file to open it&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Click &lt;strong&gt;Window&lt;/strong&gt;, then untick &lt;strong&gt;Hide Customizer&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Optional&lt;/em&gt;: Click &lt;strong&gt;Window&lt;/strong&gt;, then tick &lt;strong&gt;Hide Editor&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Enter the SVG file name in the basic settings tab (or rename the file to qr-code.svg before opening OpenSCAD)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Customize the settings. After changing a setting, you may need to click outside the text box to apply the change&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Click &lt;strong&gt;Design&lt;/strong&gt; &amp;gt; &lt;strong&gt;Render&lt;/strong&gt; and wait for the design to render&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Click &lt;strong&gt;File&lt;/strong&gt; &amp;gt; &lt;strong&gt;Export&lt;/strong&gt; &amp;gt; &lt;strong&gt;Export to STL&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Save the file&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VyzXZ.gif&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;QR Customisation - optional&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VyzXZ.gif&quot; alt=&quot;QR Customisation - optional&quot; title=&quot;QR Customisation - optional&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Notes&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Raised&lt;/strong&gt; and &lt;strong&gt;Cut-Out&lt;/strong&gt; types are for changing filament at layer height&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Multi-color&lt;/strong&gt; and &lt;strong&gt;Code&lt;/strong&gt; are to be used together for inlay/multi-color printers&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You can also set &lt;em&gt;Base Height&lt;/em&gt; or &lt;em&gt;Code Height&lt;/em&gt; to 0 and export each part on it's own&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you want to print a &lt;strong&gt;double sided tag&lt;/strong&gt;, you can set &lt;em&gt;Base Height&lt;/em&gt; to 0 and export the second side. Then just flip this over in&#xA;the slicer&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The text options are a okay for basic text, but if you want to use another program to add some, you can add extra height to the&#xA;top/bottom of the card under &lt;strong&gt;Extra Size Setting&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Advanced Notes&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There is some logic in the script that stop you from making the size too small if you have Line Size set, you can set Line Size to 0&#xA;or half your line size value if you really want to override this.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You can change the Customize Design settings before generating the QR Code (on &lt;a href=&quot;https://qrcode-monkey.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;QRCode Monkey&lt;/a&gt;), but you'll need to set Line Size to 0&#xA;and there are no promises that it'll print well&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you want to use a different site to create the QR code, resize the image to 1147x1147 pixels before converting it to an SVG. Or if&#xA;the QR code in the image doesn't have a border, resize it to 1000x1000&#xA;px.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you want to use a different source for the SVG file, there are instructions for working out the size in the code&#xA;(&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/download:10312157&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;code&gt;QR_Code_Customizer_V01_2.scad&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/a&gt;) at line 215. You'll need to&#xA;export it as a STL and measure it outside of OpenSCAD, then enter the&#xA;values into the script.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The linked to Thingiverse page also has some extra steps for adding an icon:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Add an icon&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can import another SVG file as a logo or use logo fonts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The below example uses an &lt;a href=&quot;https://iconmonstr.com/?s=wifi&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;wifi SVG file&lt;/a&gt; from IconMonstr&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Download the wifi SVG file&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Place it in the same folder as the .SCAD file&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In the customizer:&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Add some extra space to the top or bottom of the card under &lt;strong&gt;Extra Size Settings&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Go to SVG Logo Settings&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tick &lt;strong&gt;enable svg logo&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Enter the filename under &lt;strong&gt;svg logo name&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Set the &lt;strong&gt;svg y nudge&lt;/strong&gt; position and &lt;strong&gt;svg logo scale&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/A2xCK.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Adding Wi-Fi logo&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/A2xCK.png&quot; alt=&quot;Adding Wi-Fi logo&quot; title=&quot;Adding Wi-Fi logo&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4762" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2021-11-04T05:14:59.667" LastActivityDate="2021-11-04T05:14:59.667" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18327" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18295" CreationDate="2021-11-04T12:07:50.920" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I used the &lt;a href=&quot;https://printer.tools/qrcode2stl/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;qrcore2stl&lt;/a&gt; website for my WiFi access point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can easily change the parameters of the QR code and associated .stl, as well as add custom text and keychain holes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For my WiFi access, I inserted a pause command at 1 mm height, and changed filament from white to black at that point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13171" LastActivityDate="2021-11-04T12:07:50.920" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18328" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-11-04T13:42:56.390" Score="1" ViewCount="71" Body="&lt;p&gt;When using Chitubox as a slicer for a resin print, will the bottom layer curing settings automatically be applied to any party of a model that is in contact with the build plate, or only to certain areas such as support rafts?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, if you were to place a gaming piece with a base flat on the build plate would the bottom of the base be cured using the bottom layer settings because it is in contact with the build plate, or with the same settings as the rest of the model?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="29097" LastEditorUserId="854" LastEditDate="2021-11-04T18:28:44.257" LastActivityDate="2021-12-04T21:03:50.410" Title="Are bottom layer Curing settings automatically applied to everything touching the build plate?" Tags="|slicing|chitu|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18329" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18328" CreationDate="2021-11-04T18:35:19.810" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The bottom layer curing settings apply only to the number of layers configured in the settings panel appropriate to that option.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A gaming piece placed flat on the build plate would have curing times to match the above-noted settings for the specified number of layers. All subsequent layers would be cured with the (probably) faster/shorter curing time settings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The contact with the build plate is presumed but not required. If one placed a model to be sliced in such a way that it was elevated by two layer heights (nominal 0.050 x 2 = 0.100 mm) but the settings provided for four bottom layer curing times, the first two of the lower layers of the elevated model would be cured for the bottom-setting times.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Consider that you have a basin attached to the build plate. The basin is four layers deep. Everything that would contact a fluid in that basin will be given the bottom layer exposure times.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastEditorUserId="854" LastEditDate="2021-11-04T20:33:40.393" LastActivityDate="2021-11-04T20:33:40.393" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18330" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-11-04T19:52:23.773" Score="1" ViewCount="80" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are printing an object that has a base (A statue or trophy, for example), and presuming that you have already optimized every other setting: which shape of base would give you the best and most consistent bed adhesion when using PLA on the widest range of printers (For example, if you're putting it up on a site for anybody to download)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;A square base that is thin at the edges and thick in the middle, and slopes upwards in the center, like a pyramid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;A circular base that is thin at the edges and thick in the middle, like a dome&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;A flat thick square.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;A flat thick circle&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is a shape with corners better, or a shape with no corners like a disc or a fried egg?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do sloping sides make a difference, or general thickness?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="29097" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2021-11-07T14:47:21.160" LastActivityDate="2021-11-07T14:47:21.160" Title="What is the optimum shape to ensure that a base of a model adheres properly to the build plate on a filament printer using PLA?" Tags="|pla|adhesion|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18331" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-11-05T22:48:19.203" Score="2" ViewCount="390" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been using the ironing settings in Cura to smooth the top surface on my prints generally with good results. However, I've been having problems with one model in particular recently where a small part of the surface is much rougher than the rest and visibly different.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have tried printing the model several times and it happens in the same position each time, give or take a few millimeters. I'm using PLA filament on an Ender 3 V2. Ironing settings are 0.2 mm spacing, 10% flow, 16.66 mm/s. I've checked the extruder calibration and tried cleaning and replacing the nozzle without any improvement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can anyone suggest what is causing this and how to fix it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sjaEm.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Rough patch on ironed surface of 3D print&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sjaEm.png&quot; alt=&quot;Rough patch on ironed surface of 3D print&quot; title=&quot;Rough patch on ironed surface of 3D print&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31859" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-11-06T03:32:32.467" LastActivityDate="2021-11-06T03:32:32.467" Title="Rough patch in ironed surface" Tags="|creality-ender-3|ultimaker-cura|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18332" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18444" CreationDate="2021-11-05T23:31:21.873" Score="2" ViewCount="167" Body="&lt;p&gt;Prints on my Ender 3 V2 have a strange visible line along the Y-axis on the top surface. You can't feel it if you run your finger over it, but can see it which spoils the appearance of the part. While printing there's no noticeable change in the motion of the nozzle as it crosses this line. It happens at the same distance across the build plate each time. Has anyone seen this issue or have a suggestion for how to resolve it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/w3YmT.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Print showing visible line&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/w3YmT.png&quot; alt=&quot;Print showing visible line&quot; title=&quot;Print showing visible line&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31859" LastEditorUserId="31859" LastEditDate="2021-11-06T08:02:29.483" LastActivityDate="2021-11-25T00:36:36.980" Title="Visible line along Y-axis on top surface" Tags="|creality-ender-3|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18333" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-11-06T08:30:13.573" Score="1" ViewCount="981" Body="&lt;p&gt;For print applications where sanding is to be used to reduce the appearance of layer lines on medium to large objects with sweeping curves, but little to no surface detail (A vase or cosplay helmet, for example), which filament type offers the best finish?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="29097" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2021-11-07T13:31:12.137" LastActivityDate="2021-11-07T13:31:12.137" Title="Which filament type is easiest to sand smooth?" Tags="|post-processing|filament-choice|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18334" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-11-06T09:54:28.530" Score="1" ViewCount="140" Body="&lt;p&gt;What would be the best filament type to create a custom backplate\shroud for a GPU?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm looking at a design that is largely flat, 3-5 mm thick with a cutout logo and a raised &amp;quot;Tron&amp;quot; style circuit board pattern, and which would be painted using paint that's appropriate for the environment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Issues of GPU temperature have already been taken into consideration, and aren't going to be a problem. My main concern is backplate warping either on the print bed or after installation&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="29097" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-11-07T14:03:09.897" LastActivityDate="2021-11-07T14:03:09.897" Title="What is the best filament to use to create a custom GPU backplate\shroud?" Tags="|filament-choice|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18335" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18333" CreationDate="2021-11-06T10:34:23.657" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;You may discover that the type of filament has minimal bearing on the surface finish. PLA melts at a lower temperature than most of the other filament types. During sanding, it can melt into and clog the abrasive media if sufficient heat develops. This can be mitigated by using wet/dry sandpaper or applying water periodically during the sanding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have found that ABS and PETG are less prone to this problem. If your only objective is to remove layer lines, you may accomplish that goal without wet/dry abrasives. If you desire to have a smoother finish, finer grits will require the wetting of the surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As higher grits are applied, one can develop a near-glass-smooth finish. I have used this process (including micromesh™) on both PLA and ABS resulting in reflective surfaces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastActivityDate="2021-11-06T10:34:23.657" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18337" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-11-06T11:00:39.807" Score="0" ViewCount="57" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to work out what filament is absolutely safe for prolonged contact with someones face. The contact may be for hours at a time and it's in terms of a facemask so they'll be breathing through it as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31811" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2021-11-07T13:29:28.267" LastActivityDate="2021-11-07T13:29:28.267" Title="Filament suitable for medical masks" Tags="|safety|filament-choice|medical|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18339" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18330" CreationDate="2021-11-06T18:09:50.017" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;On a heated bed the ideal setting is where the plastic becomes sticky, but not hot enough it changes shape. For PLA that's usually around 60 °C.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You want enough plastic on the build plate to stick to it, but not so much it won't come off. Use support to increase cIf the majority of the bed is covered it might stick too much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My rule of thumb is to look at the shadow the part casts on the plate when lit from above. That's about the right amount. If it's too small or too large use supports to adjust the contact with the bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5369" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-11-06T21:15:52.817" LastActivityDate="2021-11-06T21:15:52.817" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18340" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18352" CreationDate="2021-11-06T20:23:21.287" Score="0" ViewCount="588" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was wondering if I can/should put my 3D printer into a wardrobe. Would it make my clothes smell? (They won’t be directly next to it) . I was wondering if it could make the printer overheat, or make some other problems. Or if it could be good as an enclosure. I have an &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.ikea.com/cz/cs/p/pax-svartisdal-satni-sestava-bila-bila-vzor-papir-s19385700/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Ikea wardrobe&lt;/a&gt;. Should I wrap the inside with tin foil? I have an Ender 3 V2 printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I’ll be using mostly PLA, ABS, TPU and PETG.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31869" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2021-11-07T11:04:50.030" LastActivityDate="2021-11-09T04:31:04.347" Title="3D printer in a wardrobe" Tags="|creality-ender-3|print-quality|enclosure|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18341" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18344" CreationDate="2021-11-07T00:54:32.977" Score="0" ViewCount="68" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm building a workspace for 3D printing for a project. I'm in the tropics so at this point it's just a large concrete pad with a roof next to my workshop. This is a very hot humid country.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm assuming keeping it open will be as cool as possible (if that's even something that's needed) unless I air condition a room which will be pretty expensive and I'm not sure I could afford that for the months the project will run. Also less worry about any fumes. The printers will not have enclosures. Thirteen to 14-year-old kids will be doing the actual printing, I'm just setting up a production line for them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At this point, we're looking at getting Ender 3 printers and printing with PLA filament if the type makes a difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there anything I need to worry about with a setup like this? I still have a while before we can get any actual printers, so I can wall it if need be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31811" LastEditorUserId="31811" LastEditDate="2021-11-07T05:39:22.663" LastActivityDate="2021-11-07T13:56:19.247" Title="3D printing workspace in the tropics" Tags="|desktop-printer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18343" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18330" CreationDate="2021-11-07T13:12:53.517" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Plastics that shrink a lot (like ABS) do better with a base plate shape that has no corners.  One approach is to put a one layer circle on every corner (ears).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PLA has a very small shrink factor, so there isn't really much of a difference for different shapes for the first layers as long as there is enough area in the base for the height of the part. If you are having problems with adhesion and PLA, either your first layer height is off or something is wrong with your build surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28397" LastEditorUserId="28397" LastEditDate="2021-11-07T13:41:46.653" LastActivityDate="2021-11-07T13:41:46.653" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18344" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18341" CreationDate="2021-11-07T13:56:19.247" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Many plastics are hygroscopic so the humidity may be a concern.  You should research the effects of plastic that has absorbed too much humidity so that you can recognize it if it becomes a problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are getting a large amount of plastic, I would recommend getting air tight containers to store it in (I use a 5 gallon bucket with a lid that has a rubber gasket) and desiccant and a method to re-dry the desiccant.  (I use a toaster oven to bake the desiccant until it changes color.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you actually do have problems with humidity, you may also want to get or build a filament dryer.  In extreme cases, some people feed the printer directly from the dryer, but most plastics are not that sensitive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28397" LastActivityDate="2021-11-07T13:56:19.247" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18345" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-11-07T22:21:10.727" Score="1" ViewCount="691" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had problems with print bed adhesion when using white PLA (Arctic White) but no problems when using other colors. So I tried to print three bottom layers with transparent PLA and all other layers with white PLA. I did not change any setting and printed both tries one after another using the same .stl file.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There was some warping of the printed ring too. No problems when using transparent plus white PLA.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FngJU.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Photo of two printed rings&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FngJU.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Photo of two printed rings&quot; title=&quot;Photo of two printed rings&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Right: white PLA only, left: transparent PLA bottom layers plus white PLA above. View of the bottom sides.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has anyone experienced similar problems?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="29373" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2021-11-08T03:15:55.010" LastActivityDate="2021-11-12T02:02:41.987" Title="Bad print bed adhesion of white PLA, no problems with transparent uncolored PLA?" Tags="|pla|adhesion|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18346" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14877" CreationDate="2021-11-08T03:58:46.983" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Superglue - aka Cyanoacrylate can do the job quite well if given help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It depends on two flat and clean surfaces.  If your printer has any lifting in corners, glue won't save you.  The two parts have to be flat as possible, which may mean sanding with a clean sheet of 120 grit glued to a backing board.   Any coarser and it will rip strands out; too fine and it will take forever plus your released plastic micro-particles get smaller.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, toothing the plastic print is critical if you're gluing the bed-face to something else.  The first layer tends to have an almost glossy surface, and this is hard for the glue to adhere to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can, add &amp;quot;gussets&amp;quot; across the join line, to help give the glue more surface area to stick to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Avoid using &amp;quot;kicker&amp;quot; because it gives a weaker bond, though it sets faster.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other solvents can help too, but they depend on the plastic you've printed in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12956" LastActivityDate="2021-11-08T03:58:46.983" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18347" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14877" CreationDate="2021-11-08T08:50:54.420" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A stronger joint than glue can be had by welding, albeit uglier and best used in hidden areas. One way to weld is with friction, using a Dremel to spin a piece of filament so fast it heats up and melts with the two plastic pieces you are joining. You tack the pieces together with a couple spot welds, then move along the joint slowly, melting a bead of plastic that is melted into both sides. Like metal welding, penetration is key to strength. You need a straight piece of filament (heat gun works, and rolling it on a flat surface while it is soft), and 3mm is a better size than 1.75mm, if available. It also helps if the joint is a little “V” shaped, so you melt plastic in the crack between the two pieces. Search “filament friction welding” for articles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also weld with some filament and a chisel tip soldering iron with variable temperature (lower the temperature to a little above the filament’s printing temp). Melt the filament into the crack between the parts. Do something to get rid of the fumes if using ABS, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both work, friction welding might get more penetration into the parts being joined, thus a stronger joint, but they are both a sturdy way to do a butt joint between two printed parts, that would be weak if glued.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The friction welding can also be used to “rivet” overlapping parts, if you dive in and melt the spinning rod through the two parts, then stop the motor and hold it in place while it cools, then snip the end of the rivet off flush.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27077" LastEditorUserId="27077" LastEditDate="2021-11-08T09:00:59.063" LastActivityDate="2021-11-08T09:00:59.063" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18348" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11667" CreationDate="2021-11-08T10:44:51.347" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been using HIPS for nearly 2 years now to print the housings of EDF units for RC planes. They come out light and strong but have poor layer adhesion, especially on thin-wall parts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Normally I print at with a 260 °C nozzle and 100 °C bed but will try higher temperature when I upgrade my Ender 5 to a 32-bit board. Thin cyanoacrylate painted on the surface solves most issues. Sometimes I use a solution of ASA dissolved in acetone to paint the surface and bind layers together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The EDF rotors I print from Apollo X which is a modified ASA that is easy to print but not soluble in acetone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31886" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-11-08T13:58:26.940" LastActivityDate="2021-11-08T13:58:26.940" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18349" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14040" CreationDate="2021-11-08T17:24:51.657" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here is 3D model that better explains why it was catching and how to remedy the problem:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ooe48.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ooe48.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dTy92.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dTy92.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/m4Y91.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/m4Y91.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Pv4Op.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Pv4Op.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The filament is likely to have some twists and the bevel you create may not be in the correct orientation once it catches the ridge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The out hole is not chamfered on the inside, as it is drilled from the outside, and I guess a chamfer on the inside is not available at this price range.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found that twisting the filament 90° at most one way or the other always helps the filament finds its way. It can be tricky because of the small diameter/stiffness of the filament, with the spool still attached to the other end.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18571" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-11-08T22:30:04.970" LastActivityDate="2021-11-08T22:30:04.970" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18350" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18359" CreationDate="2021-11-08T18:37:17.560" Score="3" ViewCount="3588" Body="&lt;p&gt;This problem started technically just before a major move but I had hoped it was a &amp;quot;one off&amp;quot; issue... I started up my trusty Ender 3 today to find it may have actually gotten worse and I'm not entirely sure what the solution is. I was printing a replica of a weapon from a game and I noticed at one point through the print I had a rather extreme X layer shift now today after finally getting the printer setup I've come to find the problem may have actually gotten worse, additionally I'm having a strange gap issue on the top most layers of my prints and strange waving patterns. Now I should note my printer is printing within an enclosure and its temperatures have been adjusted for it but this is rather extreme.&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SSGmx.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SSGmx.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;major layer shift and waving&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8Ru7M.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8Ru7M.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;extreme gaps in print&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31892" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-11-08T19:45:49.277" LastActivityDate="2021-11-11T13:59:01.680" Title="Strange and layer shifts in X axis prints" Tags="|creality-ender-3|pla|troubleshooting|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18351" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-11-08T19:07:48.990" Score="1" ViewCount="1369" Body="&lt;p&gt;(This is a pretty much duplicate post from one I put &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.reddit.com/r/BIGTREETECH/comments/qpdhe3/getting_btt_filament_sensor_to_work/?utm_source=share&amp;amp;utm_medium=web2x&amp;amp;context=3&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;over on the Reddit&lt;/a&gt;, but it hasn't received a lot of traction over there so I figured I'd post):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Like many posts I've seen on the internet, I'm having trouble getting my BTT smart filament sensor to work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Relevant Specs about my printer&lt;/strong&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ender 3 Pro&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;BTT E3 RRF Mainboard with IDEX module&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Marlin Firmware I've edited in ways I mention below&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What is going wrong&lt;/strong&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It triggers way too easily.  Right as a print starts, it'll trigger and say I ran out of filament.  And/or it'll make it maybe half a layer and then trigger.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Steps I've taken&lt;/strong&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I started by following the Teaching Tech YouTube video to get started and install it. Tried to match literally every change of his in the firmware I saw.  Things like runout distance set to 7 and runout state set to low instead of high.&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Quick note on those.  In several places (&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.reddit.com/r/BIGTREETECH/comments/le8b2t/btt_smart_filament_sensor_connected_to_skr_13_not/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;like this&lt;/a&gt;) comments suggest changing the distance to more than 7 mm to make it less 'picky'.  But in several comments (like &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.reddit.com/r/MarlinFirmware/comments/jv8lso/btt_filament_runout_sensor_always_triggers_runout/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;, and &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.makenprint.uk/3d-printing/3d-printing-reviews/3d-printer-accessory-reviews/btt-smart-filament-sensor-guide/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;), people suggest the official recommendation from BTT is 7 mm and there's a reason to set it at that.   I've tried all sorts of distances and none seem to work.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In at least one place (like &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.reddit.com/r/MarlinFirmware/comments/jv8lso/comment/gci6dkq/?utm_source=share&amp;amp;utm_medium=web2x&amp;amp;context=3&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;) people suggest that even if you set it to 7 mm in the firmware, it doesn't always take effect and you have to go to the configuration menu in your printer and set it, then store the settings.  I've done that as well.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I've set the runout state to either low or high, seems to still falsely trigger either way.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The &lt;s&gt;only solution I haven't tried yet (will try tonight when I get home)&lt;/s&gt;  (did that , still no luck) is in &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.reddit.com/r/ender5/comments/j7ph2s/comment/gmjoygp/?utm_source=share&amp;amp;utm_medium=web2x&amp;amp;context=3&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this comment&lt;/a&gt; it suggests adding &lt;code&gt;M75&lt;/code&gt; to my code to 'start the print job timer' so it won't trip 'after the initial 7 mm runout'.  Could someone explain that one to me?  Also, I feel like that's not it because even when I let it go through its paces and unload and then load, it'll trip again soon after.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The problem:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I just feel like it's still &lt;strong&gt;way&lt;/strong&gt; too sensitive.  And sure, in an ideal world I want it to detect all the things it's 'supposed' to detect like jams, tangles, etc...   but I really just care the most about it noticing I ran out of filament.&#xA;Are there any settings in the firmware or anywhere else I should take a look at?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My latest thought is that maybe I have the sensor mounted in a different direction than it should be?  Every video or picture I see online looks like the filament is going the opposite direction compared to what I have, but I've also seen comments where it says that doesn't matter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also have &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.raverobot.com/how-to-add-a-smart-filament-runout-sensor-to-the-ender-3/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;seen comments like here where the author&lt;/a&gt; recommends a HUGE runout distance (50) as that could be a problem. I'm willing to try that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15186" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2022-01-25T22:48:00.597" LastActivityDate="2022-01-25T22:48:00.597" Title="Getting BTT filament sensor to work" Tags="|creality-ender-3|bigtreetech|filament-sensor|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18352" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18340" CreationDate="2021-11-09T03:41:41.887" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, you can use an enclosure, many people do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;PSA&lt;/strong&gt;: Whatever you use for an enclosure, please take precautions for the potential of fire.  Have a smoke detector within the enclosure or nearby.  Resist the temptation to leave your printer unattended, give yourself some method for remote viewing (ex: RaspPi + OctoPi + RaspCamera).  Even with a tuned printer things still go wrong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the long run, you will be better off with a purpose-built enclosure.  The primary goals of a good enclosure are visibility of an active print, access to the changing print filament, and heat control (stability). Together these imply a large doorway and windows.  The goal temperature to be held within your enclosure is roughly 30-50 °C.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A wardrobe is likely a thick material and will hold higher temps, and is not see-thru, making it an undesirable enclosure.  DO NOT USE cardboard, unless you want to tempt fate.  Aluminum foil, though flame resistant, is not sturdy and makes for poor visibility of the print.  In short, don't be super cheap-o here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The concerns of equipment overheating are mostly for the power supply and controllers (ex: RaspPi).  I suggest to detached them, placing them outside of the enclosure.  Again, a wardrobe may be too big for the controllers &amp;amp; power supply to be outside and still have the cables reach the printer components.   If your enclosure temp never exceeds 32 °C (90 °F), you could possibly get away with leaving the equipment attached and inside.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you have an enclosure for your 3D Printer, determine if your enclosure needs vents.  Get yourself a small thermometer and track the internal heat near the roof, during a long-running print.  Add passive vents to the corners if the temp reaches 45 °C or above.  Avoid active fans, as flowing air will lead to warping &amp;amp; separation of prints from the bed.  Your goal is to have a stable temperature around your printed plastic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For reference: The particular enclosure I'm using is a simple clear Acrylic box, with a few small vent holes, measuring 18&amp;quot; wide x 24&amp;quot; long x 18&amp;quot; high, barely big enough for my 3D Printer.  I'm running an Creality Ender 3 v1, typically with ABS using 220 °C for the hotend and 100 °C for the bed.  The enclosure internal temperature rises to 35 °C, starting from an ambient room temp of 20 °C (68 °F).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The acrylic makes for a sturdy box, the print progress is very visible, large easy doors and provides moderate insulation.  Cost was roughly ~$75 total for 5 sheets of 18&amp;quot; x 24&amp;quot; x 0.093&amp;quot; acrylic (left, right, top, front, back) @ 14\$/ea.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps and best wishes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;P.S. External link to examples of many 3D printer enclosures (some good, some bad): &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.instructables.com/workshop/howto/3d+printer+enclosure/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.instructables.com/workshop/howto/3d+printer+enclosure/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31898" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-11-09T04:31:04.347" LastActivityDate="2021-11-09T04:31:04.347" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18353" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14381" CreationDate="2021-11-09T17:00:58.563" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Something similar happened to me and it was a combination of E steps calibration and a gap between the hot end and the PTFE tube. fixed both and ran a few temperature and retraction towers to set the values that worked for my TPU (sainsmart)&#xA;You are charging a lot on how the material is delivered and manipulated by the printer when migrating to a direct drive&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/lD9Ei3u5-iU?start=0&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&#xA;This video made it easier for me :)&#xA;Hope this helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31910" LastActivityDate="2021-11-09T17:00:58.563" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18354" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18345" CreationDate="2021-11-10T00:33:07.980" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Same G-code slice? The main cause of warping is temperature. If this is kept as a control variable and you have these results, it may be because of a different temperature the filament requires. Check the filament specs and adjust the bed/nozzle temperature to make the temperature difference smaller.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: Another reason it might be needing different temperatures is because of absorbing moisture.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31751" LastEditorUserId="31751" LastEditDate="2021-11-12T02:02:41.987" LastActivityDate="2021-11-12T02:02:41.987" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18355" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1292" CreationDate="2021-11-10T16:22:10.797" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you will be printing PLA, &lt;strong&gt;no&lt;/strong&gt;, or at least not without active cooling of the chamber. PLA's glass transition temperature is sufficiently low that the ambient temperature matters a lot to whether layer N can cool enough before layer N+1 is laid, in order to have a firm surface to extrude against and bond to. This especially matters with overhangs and complex geometry. If you use a heated bed for adhesion, the chamber temperature will tend to reach nearly the bed temperature, keeping your print soft the entire time. In a worst case, it might even cause heat creep and jam the heatbreak. Even if you're not using a heated bed, waste heat from the hotend will warm the chamber somewhat; expect temperatures of at least 35-40 ˚C rather than a (preferred) ambient 19-22 ˚C.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2021-11-10T16:22:10.797" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18356" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18350" CreationDate="2021-11-10T16:49:15.993" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some things that can cause this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You eliminated the belt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The extruder colliding with something rigid enough to cause it to lose track of the origin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;What seems most likely is intermittent power to your x-motor, so that the computer continues as if the motor moved when it didn't completely.  This is a possible intermittent at different locations accociated with the motor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've seen a power glitch cause a single offset in print when the computer has battery backup, but the printer does not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15075" LastActivityDate="2021-11-10T16:49:15.993" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18357" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-11-10T23:13:55.963" Score="0" ViewCount="76" Body="&lt;p&gt;I purchased the XVICO X3 over a year ago. It had fair reviews. I didn't end up assembling the printer until recently.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Y-axis appears to run backwards, so I can't use it for anything. It jams the print plate and I have to manually cut it off. Tried everything with no luck. I have considered replacing the board. The frame and parts are nice.  Overall, it looks like it would be a great printer and some YouTube videos say as much for the price. Some articles suggest running Marlin 2.0 by flashing the board, as the XVICO X3 printer is an Ender styled machine. If the board is flawed, I think it would be useless to try that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm clueless and would appreciate any help provided.  Support from Xvico is hard to get.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31928" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-11-10T23:46:18.997" LastActivityDate="2021-11-10T23:46:18.997" Title="The Y-axis on my XVICO X3 seems to run backwards. I can't level or home the printer. What can I do to fix it?" Tags="|y-axis|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18358" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12201" CreationDate="2021-11-11T10:57:44.953" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds like there’s two things that could be going wrong here:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Your starting G-code has some code in it that’s making it think that you want to treat a few layers up as &lt;code&gt;Z0&lt;/code&gt;. If I were you I would minimize the start G-code until you get this sorted out. A quick fix would Be to add the following code to the end of your starting G-code:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;G28: Homes all axis&#xA;G28 Z0: Homes the Z-axis&#xA;G29: Auto-bed-leveling (optional if you’ve already attached a leveling device)&#xA;G1 Z3 F5000: Raises the Z position up 3 mm relative to where it was (G1 tells the machine to move, Z3 tells it how much to move and along which axis, F5000 is the speed of movement)&#xA;G92 Z0.3: Treats the current position as Z = 0.3 (applying an offset of -0.3 and creating a sort of false home for the Z-axis). &#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any commands made after this simple code will assume the print bed is lower than what it actually is (to account for any original gap between the nozzle and the print bed). If you want to have the nozzle raised, you’ll have to insert a negative value after the &lt;code&gt;G92&lt;/code&gt; command.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You have a Z-offset set in your slicer software. This is a super easy fix if you find that you have one set, and it’s usually just because the slicer is using the preset for an Ender 3 with a glass bed. I would try setting it back to 0 if there is one already and try the G-code above.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even if the starting G-code I provided doesn’t solve your problem you should still find the Z-Offset setting in your slicer software and set it down -0.1 mm at a time until your printer starts printing in the correct Z-Axis position.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here’s an All3DP article that helped a ton when I first got started: &lt;a href=&quot;https://m.all3dp.com/2/ender-3-pro-z-offset/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Ender 3 (Pro) Z Offset: How to Adjust It&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31930" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2021-11-11T11:22:52.820" LastActivityDate="2021-11-11T11:22:52.820" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18359" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18350" CreationDate="2021-11-11T11:14:03.250" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;As others have said, shifts in the X-axis are generally from belts at the wrong tension and loose frame screws. &lt;strong&gt;Especially&lt;/strong&gt; after moving, I would say to check all of the frame screws and retighten them to their original torque. Moving a printer puts a lot of stress on its joints and hardware if it’s not handled correctly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I &lt;strong&gt;highly&lt;/strong&gt; recommend you print a quick X-axis belt tensioner for your printer. It takes no time at all and it did wonders for my Ender 3 when it was having issues with skipping and layer shifting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even if your belts feel tight they may not be at the correct tension. This is generally from the belts stretching out over time or the printer just rattling the belt pulleys loose. After printing the belt-tensioner for the  X-axis you’ll be able to adjust the tension mid-print if it’s still skipping.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Honestly go ahead and print one for the Y-axis at the same time. Both shouldn’t take longer than an hour.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2986144&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;X-axis Belt Tensioner for Ender 3&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3097972&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Y-axis Belt Tensioner for Ender 3&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If all else fails you can buy a new belt(I’d recommend one with some kind of reinforcements embedded in it) for like $10 on Amazon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, as someone else said - it could be a connection short between your computer and printer If you’re printing straight from the USB cable. I’ve had a ton of trouble with that in the past which is why with the nurse three I decided to just put all of my prints on the SD card and start them from the screen on the printer, it saves on the headaches and you can at least rule out your PC and the Printing software as the culprits.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good Luck!!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31930" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-11-11T13:59:01.680" LastActivityDate="2021-11-11T13:59:01.680" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18360" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18351" CreationDate="2021-11-11T11:29:52.217" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would comment but I don’t have enough reputation yet -&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are you using the Creality firmware, Marlin, RepRap, or the Stock BIGTREE firmware? Also, have you modified it at all?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you’re still using the firmware that came on the printer or Marlin firmware this thread could offer some insight. Read down through all of the comments because several people had really good tips, and the OP actually posted an update with how he solved it:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems that the settings stored in the printer overwrides the  FILAMENT_RUNOUT_DISTANCE_MM  in the firmware. So I just went the the printer configuration -&amp;gt; advance configuration -&amp;gt; filament and then I changed the runout distance and stored the settings. &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.reddit.com/r/MarlinFirmware/comments/jv8lso/btt_filament_runout_sensor_always_triggers_runout/?utm_source=share&amp;amp;utm_medium=ios_app&amp;amp;utm_name=iossmf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Source&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31930" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-11-11T14:03:37.200" LastActivityDate="2021-11-11T14:03:37.200" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18361" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18345" CreationDate="2021-11-11T12:45:39.907" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Problem was displaced by a factory reset of the 3D printer FlashForge Adventurer 3.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jxS9X.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jxS9X.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Photo of two versions&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Right: white PLA only, left: transparent PLA bottom layers plus white PLA above. View of the bottom sides. No difference of print bed adhesion now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason of the problem was not found, but print bed adhesion is good after the factory reset for both white and transparent PLA.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="29373" LastActivityDate="2021-11-11T12:45:39.907" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18362" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-11-11T19:13:35.597" Score="0" ViewCount="347" Body="&lt;p&gt;I ordered a matrix direct drive extruder from Trianglelab and printed two mounts for it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The mounts I have printed are found &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4686413&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have only printed the first and second part from the referenced link above.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should these be enough to get the extruder mounted and start testing with it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a hard time figuring out which way the extruder should be connected with these mounts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31840" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-11-12T09:07:49.227" LastActivityDate="2022-04-11T13:03:50.403" Title="Ender 3 with Trianglelab matrix extruder" Tags="|creality-ender-3|extruder|direct-drive|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18364" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18362" CreationDate="2021-11-12T11:50:53.373" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Unless the question is updated why a LulzBot TAZ printer part is used on the Ender 3, it is unclear why you would want to use the parts from the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4686413&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;linked Thingiverse source&lt;/a&gt;; quote:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These are the parts needed to mount a Trianglelab Matrix extruder to a Taz 5 and Workhorse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The LulzBot concept uses the linear rods concept (Prusa i3 style) for the X-axis while the Ender 3 uses a wheel based carriage running on a 2020 aluminium extrusion profile. For comparison, see the image below to show the differences between the Ender 3 and the TAZ:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/t3MRc.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/t3MRc.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A specific mount for the Ender 3 is found &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4849159&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1E111.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1E111.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2021-11-12T11:50:53.373" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18365" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-11-12T16:45:27.183" Score="2" ViewCount="38" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I have a printer that I'm prototyping right now, and it's a little different; the Y-axis is a rotary drum.  To compare to a bed-slinger, instead of the surface traveling forward and backward, it rolls.  The issue this will create is not one that will instantly cause issues, but rather a few millimeters up when 1 mm of travel at the surface, is 2 mm of travel on the print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While I'm not terribly concerned about the loss of resolution, I am quite concerned about under-extrusion on the Y-axis moves.  What I need is a way to incrementally increase the extrusion as the layers go up.  Something like x + (n * c), where 'x' is the amount of filament per unit at the base layer, 'n' is the number of layers beyond the base layer, and 'c' is the difference in circumference per layer, should do the job.  But the idea of manually adjusting the G-code layer by layer sounds about as much fun as a rock concert of nothing but fingernails on chalkboards and out-of-control ball-bearing tumblers...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Where should I start?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31938" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-11-12T18:12:26.333" LastActivityDate="2021-11-12T18:12:26.333" Title="Custom slicing solution needed" Tags="|g-code|slicing|extrusion|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18366" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18232" CreationDate="2021-11-13T03:17:09.490" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds like it may be due to uneven heating. Check with an IR thermometer to make sure. If you're sure the bed is clean and has even heating, you may want to try a different surface. G10 is cheap and almost always perfectly flat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28896" LastActivityDate="2021-11-13T03:17:09.490" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18367" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18144" CreationDate="2021-11-13T03:25:44.473" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can do this provided the part releases consistently after cooling. Your filament choice may cause problems, though. ABS is prone to warping and a fan constantly blowing on the part would make it worse. The second thing to consider would be the release agent. I assume you are using gluestick or something similar on the bed. This may be pulled off the bed after a couple prints.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28896" LastActivityDate="2021-11-13T03:25:44.473" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18368" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15023" CreationDate="2021-11-13T05:53:02.060" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had same issue. It is because filament broken inside mostly. If you are not using printer much, filaments effected from humid and broken easily.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31950" LastActivityDate="2021-11-13T05:53:02.060" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18369" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14419" CreationDate="2021-11-13T11:02:01.630" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could print something on top of it, like a giant square covering the whole affected area. You should use some slightly higher temperatures than usual to make it adhere good (e.g. 75 °C bed 210 °C hotend), make sure that you print several layers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are 2 options removing the new print when there is an elevated temperature in the bed left after printing, or removing after a complete cool down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2021-11-13T11:02:01.630" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18370" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18144" CreationDate="2021-11-13T23:56:29.297" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;In theory you could knock the item off the build plate and into a bin by positioning the print head behind the part and then pushing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However your build plate would need to have a smooth front edge, so no clips in the way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'd also want to have some delay to let the bed cool down before attempting this, and have spare belts on hand for the day the installed belt breaks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A fan may work IF you can control it to come on after the part has finished printing, AND your printer will release a finished part given time.  Also, your finished part must be strong enough to survive the impact and fall without damage, else what's the point?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, your effective print volume would shrink - there has to be enough space at the back to drop the print head behind the part using gcode, and then slide the bed backward until the part falls off.  You couldn't use the back ~75mm of the bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally I always have to use a scraper and occasionally a light hammer tap, so a fan wouldn't do anything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I were doing this, I'd either pony up and buy one of those Creality belt-fed printers that have a rolling platform, and drop parts off the front.  The CR-30 &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.creality3dofficial.com/products/cr-30-infinite-z-belt-3d-printer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.creality3dofficial.com/products/cr-30-infinite-z-belt-3d-printer&lt;/a&gt; or other manufacturers would have the same.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other more homebrew option would be to consider where the bed ends up after job is done, and then have some kind of &amp;quot;wiper&amp;quot; mechanism that comes from the side and pushes the part over and off the bed.  It would have to be low enough to get any brim and priming lines out of the way too.  Since the printer probably can't control this, you'd be looking at an external controller like a computer running a print server, orchestrating the wiper and then starting the next job.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll also want a really big roll of filament, or a filament-out sensor so you're not printing air.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12956" LastActivityDate="2021-11-13T23:56:29.297" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18371" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1292" CreationDate="2021-11-14T00:02:17.923" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Consider the environmental conditions where your printer is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have my printer in a garage, where the door is sometimes open, closed, or slightly ajar.  This leads to gusts of wind, causing lifting and ruining multiple prints.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I surrounded the printer on three sides with walls made from the original packing foam, and my lifting problems have utterly vanished.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The top and front side are open, so I have a &amp;quot;four sided&amp;quot; box.  Heat does not build up, but the variable wind gusts are minimised.  Access is slightly reduced, but not a lot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ender 3 V2, printing the &amp;quot;Ender&amp;quot; brand of PLA from Creality.  Bed is at 55 °C and print head is 200 °C.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12956" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-11-14T04:28:54.973" LastActivityDate="2021-11-14T04:28:54.973" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18372" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18406" CreationDate="2021-11-14T00:07:35.113" Score="1" ViewCount="188" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have printed some connectors from PLA, in order to make a frame for a &amp;quot;tent&amp;quot; cover for my  Ender3 printer&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since printing rods would be a long process with likely poor results, I'm using some cheap thin-walled metal tubes as the main structure, and printing the corners.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I plan on using 2 part epoxy to secure the metal rods into the sockets in my printed part, but can find no real chart of what glue to use with which FDM plastics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Is 2 part epoxy a suitable adhesive for PLA and other hard items?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12956" LastActivityDate="2021-11-21T00:29:35.393" Title="What is the best glue for the task of assembling a 3D printed part with other materials?" Tags="|pla|glue|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18373" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18416" CreationDate="2021-11-14T10:36:22.587" Score="1" ViewCount="2368" Body="&lt;p&gt;My Ender 3 Pro started throwing the Thermal Runaway E1 error last week. Previous to that I had not modified or changed anything on the printer in months, other than move it's location. I replaced the thermistor yesterday and set off a test print but got the same error.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this an issue with the motherboard? Or with the heater cartridge?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Printer specs:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ender 3 Pro&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Creality 4.2.7 silent motherboard&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;all metal dual gear extruder&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Glass bed&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;stock everything else&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31958" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2021-11-14T12:15:08.587" LastActivityDate="2021-11-21T22:34:36.203" Title="Sporadic thermal runaway E1 error on Ender 3 Pro, continues after thermistor replacement. What could be the cause?" Tags="|creality-ender-3|troubleshooting|thermal-runaway|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18375" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18232" CreationDate="2021-11-14T22:19:51.460" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Try reducing the print speed and cleaning the bed with acetone before each print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30880" LastActivityDate="2021-11-14T22:19:51.460" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18376" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18377" CreationDate="2021-11-15T00:04:26.040" Score="1" ViewCount="387" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am at a school with several Makerbot Replicator+ – a total of 9 of them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, they seem to print fine and I can hook up to two of them to one laptop (they are some Lenovo models from a few years back) using Makerbot Print. Well and good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I wanted to hook them up to my MacBook Pro (2020, OS X Catalina) with the USB cables, and the MacBook doesn't seem to &amp;quot;read&amp;quot; the printers, it's like they aren't even there. Makerbot Print (latest version) doesn't seem to &amp;quot;see&amp;quot; that they are hooked up. I checked the system prefs to see if the Makerbots showed up as connected USB devices and they don't seem to be there either.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, I am connecting via the USB cables and then through an adapter that connects the USB-A to USB-C. If I should just use a USB-B to USB-C cable (I ordered one to test it) then fine, I'll do that. I just wanted to check that there wasn't some other problem or if anyone else had this issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next up: USB hubs. Makerbot says they don't recommend it, but sometimes I have to print out lots of stuff at once for student projects and I can't tie up multiple laptops for hours-long prints. I have done the technique of leaving stuff all night but that's hit or miss – if something goes wrong I am not there to stop the print (at least once something got unstuck from the build plate and I ended up with an extruder with the end encased in hard plastic like a stalactite. Unless I basically blowtorch it off... )&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, the question(s) is/are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any recommendations for USB hubs? (I would do wireless but that I am less sure of, and it seems easier, faster, and more reliable to link up through USB. The wireless connection always drops).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any recommendations for the MacBook issue? Is it just a matter of finding the right cable? (it's certainly possible my $10 USB-A to USB-C adapter plugs aren't well designed, and I should just go for direct cabling)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any recommendations for a good USB hub to link a Mac (or anything else) to Makerbots?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for your time and help. I do hope I am not duplicating a post but I don't see anything in my searches that addresses the specific issues I have; though it's possible I didn't use the right search terms.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31967" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-11-15T05:26:24.537" LastActivityDate="2023-01-27T14:49:51.150" Title="Want to connect Makerbot Replicator+ to Mac and several to USB hub" Tags="|makerbot|usb|replicator+|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18377" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18376" CreationDate="2021-11-15T02:25:11.807" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;It would seem that the printer control board doesn't use a CH340 (see bottom of this answer) and therefore this answer should be ignored.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;CH340 and OS X incompatibility&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason your Mac might not see the printers &lt;em&gt;could&lt;/em&gt; be down to the USB interface &lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;on the printer controller board&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it is implemented by a CH340 (which is probably is, in order to reduce manufacturing costs) then, historically, MacBooks have a problem with the drivers for this device and its derivatives. That is to say, the OS has a problem - more specifically the device drivers used by the OS X kernel - as opposed to the hardware. There are a number of posts dealing with this problem, it is common on Arduino clones too, see &lt;a href=&quot;https://arduino.stackexchange.com/search?q=mac+ch340&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The third party drivers for the CH340(G) written for OS X are often poorly written and/or have shoddy documentation - although this opinion may be hotly debated, and I have no wish to expand upon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the USB interface, on the printer controller board, is implemented with an FTDI or a ATmega 16U2 then it will work fine. Unfortunately the solution is probably not to use the Mac and stick with the Lenovos (i.e. PC clone).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See the extensive answers to &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/q/6221/4762&quot;&gt;Can&amp;#39;t connect Cura to my Anet A8 on OSX 10.11.6&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As an aside, I gave up trying to buy/use cheap Arduino clones with a CH340(G), on a Mac long along, as it just wasn't worth the effort in trying to get the Mac to see it. I now ensure that either:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I purchase a slightly more expensive Arduino which uses a 16U2 (the more pricey FTDI chip is more rarely used on boards these days, but can still be found). Obviously, you don't have that sort of luxury when selecting a 3D printer.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I will use a PC instead, if the board has a CH340(G), or similar.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;One possible solution&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, having said all of that, this issue &lt;strong&gt;may&lt;/strong&gt; have been resolved in newer versions of OS X (post Mountain Lion, or thereabouts). This &lt;em&gt;might&lt;/em&gt; provide a solution, &lt;a href=&quot;https://arduino.stackexchange.com/q/57126/6936&quot;&gt;Connect to ch340 on MacOS Mojave&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;remove all old drivers:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;sudo rm -rf /Library/Extensions/usbserial.kext&#xA;sudo rm -rf /System/Library/Extensions/usb.kext&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now reboot the computer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And then (very important, because it took me 10 cables to find the&#xA;right one) use a &lt;strong&gt;fully connected&lt;/strong&gt; cable ;-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now I have these ports:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;/dev/cu.wchusbserial1410&#xA;/dev/cu.usbserial-1410&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Important note&lt;/strong&gt;: Clearly, deleting kernel drivers (also known as &lt;em&gt;kernel extensions&lt;/em&gt;, &lt;code&gt;.kext&lt;/code&gt;) shouldn't be taken lightly. If you feel uncomfortable doing it, or don't know how to revert the process, by using a saved backup of the drivers, then &lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;please don't attempt this&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For completeness:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;To back up the &lt;code&gt;kext&lt;/code&gt; (&lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;before&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt; deleting it as shown above):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;sudo cp /Library/Extensions/usbserial.kext /Library/Extensions/usbserial.kext.bak&#xA;sudo cp /System/Library/Extensions/usb.kext /System/Library/Extensions/usb.kext.bak&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;To restore the &lt;code&gt;kext&lt;/code&gt; (&lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;after&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt; having deleted the kernel extension and then finding that it made no difference whatsoever):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;sudo mv /Library/Extensions/usbserial.kext.bak /Library/Extensions/usbserial.kext&#xA;sudo mv /System/Library/Extensions/usb.kext.bak /System/Library/Extensions/usb.kext&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively, instead of &lt;em&gt;deleting&lt;/em&gt; the kernel drivers, you could just &lt;em&gt;rename&lt;/em&gt; them to hide them, by adding &lt;code&gt;.bak&lt;/code&gt; to the filename, like so&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;sudo mv /Library/Extensions/usbserial.kext /Library/Extensions/usbserial.kext.bak&#xA;sudo mv /System/Library/Extensions/usb.kext /System/Library/Extensions/usb.kext.bak&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then reboot. Check the printer connects or not. If not, then just &lt;em&gt;restore&lt;/em&gt; them using the same commands shown above - so you just end up removing the additional &lt;code&gt;.bak&lt;/code&gt; from the filename.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With respect to the quoted answer, I'm not entirely sure what is meant by a &lt;strong&gt;fully connected&lt;/strong&gt; cable... There &lt;em&gt;is&lt;/em&gt; a well-known issue that some USB &lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;charging&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt; cables - that look like normal USB cables - have only the power lines connected, and omit the data lines (again for cheapness), and it can be difficult to tell the two apart (usually by thickness, the thicker cables have more lines connected). Obviously, if the data lines are missing then the cable will not transfer data.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;However&lt;/em&gt;, this usually applies only to cables with mini, or micro USB connectors, and usually doesn't apply to standard peripheral cables such as a USB-A to USB-B cable:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/11mVl.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;USB connectors&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/11mVl.png&quot; alt=&quot;USB connectors&quot; title=&quot;USB connectors&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, this issue should only arise for micro/mini USB connectors... it will depend upon your connector type.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We can't recommend particular makes or models of USB hubs as that is a shopping question, which is &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/help/on-topic&quot;&gt;off-topic&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Analysis on the printer board&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Makerbot appear to use the Mightyboard for the Replicator. INterestingly from the following two photos it would appear that a CH340(G) is &lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;not&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt; used, and the IC is in fact a 16U2.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a photo of the board (image from &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.fargo3dprinting.com/products/makerbot-replicator-2-2x-rev-h-mightyboard-oem/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;MakerBot Replicator 2/2X Rev H Mightyboard – Official, OEM Board w/ 4 BotSteps&lt;/a&gt;):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AcMoE.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Photo of Mightboard&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AcMoE.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Photo of Mightboard&quot; title=&quot;Photo of Mightboard&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The IC closest to the USB-B port would appear to be a 16U2:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Its form is square like a 16U2 and not elongated like a CH340G&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It would appear to have an Atmel logo printed upon it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This image (from &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.teknistore.com/en/3d-printer-module-board/19403-mightyboard-motherboard-3d-printer-dashboard.html?mobile_theme_ok&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;MightyBoard Motherboard 3D Printer Dashboard&lt;/a&gt;), also suggests the a 16U2 is used:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DoO9c.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Annotated photo of MightBoard&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DoO9c.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Annotated photo of MightBoard&quot; title=&quot;Annotated photo of MightBoard&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All of which means that, if your printer(s) have this board, then your Mac &lt;em&gt;should&lt;/em&gt; indeed connect to the printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4762" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2021-11-15T05:54:35.843" LastActivityDate="2021-11-15T05:54:35.843" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18378" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2021-11-15T03:11:16.593" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sometimes we have to print jobs in several pieces, for reasons of build volume, or using different colours, or even different plastics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Items can be glued together later using a variety of products, but &lt;strong&gt;what glue to use&lt;/strong&gt; for different filaments.  Also, sometimes we glue 3D printed parts to real-world parts as a repair, or because the final item contains both 3D Printed and other parts, like wood, plastics, metal, or fabric.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is not about gluestick on the bed, that should be tagged &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/adhesion&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;adhesion&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;adhesion&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12956" LastEditorUserId="12956" LastEditDate="2021-11-15T03:46:29.503" LastActivityDate="2021-11-15T03:46:29.503" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18379" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2021-11-15T03:11:16.593" Score="0" Body="Bonding two or more items together, where at least one is 3D Printed." OwnerUserId="12956" LastEditorUserId="12956" LastEditDate="2021-11-15T03:46:38.853" LastActivityDate="2021-11-15T03:46:38.853" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18380" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-11-15T21:57:30.647" Score="1" ViewCount="137" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Chiron from Anycubic and I have had some leveling issues in the last few weeks, however, I believe that I have sorted that. The layers attached to the base plate or the raft now come out very weird and I am uncertain why. I heard that this is caused by the extruder being too cold but I have turned up the temperature and nothing has changed. Could someone please help with this because I have a feeling this is the reason the prints are being warped slightly but enough to not fit together?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am very new to all this and I have no one to help me with this, if you could help I would be very grateful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZfWri.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;3D printed model with badly extruded layer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZfWri.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;3D printed model with badly extruded layer&quot; title=&quot;3D printed model with badly extruded layer&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My bed temperature is set to 70 °C and the speed is 50 mm/s. I manually leveled it afer the self leveling didn't work, the image shows the top layer of a very bad failed print that had the same settings as my other ones but this one specifically was worse. I use PLA and have the extruder set to a temp of 210 °C most of the time. I now have the base set to 80 °C due to when its lower, adhesion doesn't take place for some reason. There are no large overhangs on my models but it can comfortably do a 70ish degree angle with no major flaw. The extruder height is set to 2 mm due to some massive leveling issues I had before.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31980" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-11-21T07:41:50.957" LastActivityDate="2022-04-22T14:40:50.380" Title="How do I make the layers stick together more and warp less?" Tags="|troubleshooting|hotend|extrusion|anycubic-chiron|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18381" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18383" CreationDate="2021-11-16T23:57:43.777" Score="1" ViewCount="399" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have some relay boards which I want to build into a case for my Pi.  The relays are GPIO controlled and will turn on/off things like a 12 volt DC light, and the 240 volt 50 hertz AC printer itself.  The relays are rated for these levels and current draws.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However I would prefer to put the pi and its relays inside a case.  No commercial case exists to neatly hold the relays, so I have to design and print something.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What filaments can and can't be used to encase mains voltages?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What other considerations should be accounted for - minimum thickness?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12956" LastActivityDate="2021-11-17T03:39:50.810" Title="What filaments are appropriate for a case that will contain mains voltage wiring?" Tags="|pla|filament-choice|power-supply|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18382" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18384" CreationDate="2021-11-17T03:22:55.933" Score="1" ViewCount="737" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here are the details:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Creality CR 10-S5&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;BLTouch leveling sensor&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Micro Swiss Direct Drive filament upgrade kit&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bed is 66 °C.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried dozens of temperatures starting at 205 °C and going all the way down to 180 °C pretty much 1 °C at a time. The present temperature of 188 °C seems to generate a higher stickiness to the bed than other temperatures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have also adjusted the flow rate down to 47% and that, although it did help with the stringing, didn't fix it completely and made the whole print super weak.  I have discovered going below 80% is structurally a bad idea.  I wouldn't mind having it at 90% either.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am trying different retraction speeds and distances now currently testing 5 mm and 70 mm/s retraction.  Previously I tried 4 mm with 60 mm/s and it didn't help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using a lower filament flow rate (about &amp;lt;60%) did prevent it from going all the way across at approx 50 mm/s, but alas &amp;lt;60% is too weak structurally. And didn't solve it completely.  The tips had a Y-shaped split top on both sides with the one side of the Y being straight as it is part of the tower.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any suggestions to rid me of this are welcome.  Reminder flow rate below 80% is too weak, and 188 °C is preferred.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Aj0KO.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;3D printed retraction tower showing stringing&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Aj0KO.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;3D printed retraction tower showing stringing&quot; title=&quot;3D printed retraction tower showing stringing&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16395" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-11-17T04:18:48.117" LastActivityDate="2021-11-17T04:18:48.117" Title="Fixing stringing within &lt;80% flow print out is weak" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|creality-cr-10|stringing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18383" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18381" CreationDate="2021-11-17T03:39:50.810" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Any filament except made-to-be-conductive metal infused filaments should be capable of acting as a suitable insulator, but you'll also want to consider things like failure modes under overheating, mechanical damage, whether it might be subject to spills of conductive fluids, etc. These are not so much a matter of filament choice as structural design and safety design on the electrical level (proper fuses, etc.), and may involve compliance with electrical code. I think those questions are outside the scope of 3D Printing SE, but would be appropriate on a sister site like DIY or Electronics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the 3D printing side, you might want to avoid PLA unless you can guarantee shutoff if anything exeeds about 55˚C, since you'll quickly get warping and loss of structural integrity past that. Although I do have an under-hood automotive part in PLA (wiper fluid connector) that's held up fine for a few years now. PETG or ABS/ASA would probably be preferable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2021-11-17T03:39:50.810" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18384" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18382" CreationDate="2021-11-17T03:42:57.113" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The picture looks like classic Cura misbehavior - it's skipping retractions that need to happen because it's done &amp;quot;too many&amp;quot; already. You should be able to confirm this by looking at the gcode in an analyzer that shows retractions or watching the print. Set &amp;quot;Minimum Extrusion Distance Window&amp;quot; to 0 to fix the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should not be reducing flow at all, and certainly not by more than a few percent. Put it back to 100%.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2021-11-17T03:42:57.113" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18385" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18388" CreationDate="2021-11-17T06:03:21.683" Score="5" ViewCount="13977" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm struggling to find the name of a connector I just broke, so I can order a new one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's a six pin nylon terminal, that plugs into a set of header pins on a stepper motor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What do I search for to find these?! Also, how would I go about finding something like this in the future? I seem to struggle to find connectors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ejbJR.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Connector&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ejbJR.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Connector&quot; title=&quot;Connector&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31992" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-11-17T09:14:05.327" LastActivityDate="2021-11-18T15:36:02.137" Title="What is this stepper motor connector called?" Tags="|electronics|stepper|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18386" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18385" CreationDate="2021-11-17T07:15:44.303" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In an attempt to salvage my (sadly) previously incorrect answer (at the bottom), &lt;em&gt;and&lt;/em&gt; to add to &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/18388/4762&quot;&gt;anttix's superlative answer&lt;/a&gt;, here is a quote from &lt;a href=&quot;https://gulfcoast-robotics.com/pages/stepper-cable-for-mks-boards-pinout&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Stepper cable for MKS Boards pinout&lt;/a&gt;, which clearly shows the difference - locking and non-locking, and pitch difference (note the thickness of the plastic between each individual pin socket) - in the two plugs:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This pinout information will help you to use our 1 meter stepper&#xA;cables correctly. Cable was made to be compatible with 6-pin JST&#xA;connectors on NEMA 17 stepper on one side and 4-pin JST connector on&#xA;other side. These cables are compatible with MKS BASE and MKS Gen&#xA;boards that we sell in our store.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BozTI.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Female JST connectors for the control board (4 pin XH) and stepper motors (6 pin PH)&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BozTI.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Female JST connectors for the control board (4 pin XH) and stepper motors (6 pin PH)&quot; title=&quot;Female JST connectors for the control board (4 pin XH) and stepper motors (6 pin PH)&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For compatibility with Anet board you will need to swap 2 wires - RED&#xA;and BLUE on the 4 pin board side connector.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rF57Q.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Reconfiguration for Anet board&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rF57Q.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Reconfiguration for Anet board&quot; title=&quot;Reconfiguration for Anet board&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whilst they aren't labeled &lt;em&gt;PH&lt;/em&gt; and &lt;em&gt;XH&lt;/em&gt;, it is pretty safe to assume that:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;For the control board, the &lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;4 pin&lt;/strong&gt; female connector&lt;/em&gt; on the &lt;strong&gt;left&lt;/strong&gt; is the &lt;strong&gt;XH&lt;/strong&gt;, and;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;For the stepper motor, the &lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;6 pin&lt;/strong&gt; female connector&lt;/em&gt; on the &lt;strong&gt;right&lt;/strong&gt; is &lt;strong&gt;PH&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mattmillman.com/info/crimpconnectors/common-jst-connector-types/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;mattmillan.com&lt;/a&gt; link in anttix's answer, whilst informative, unfortunately doesn't show both sides of the 4 or 6 pin connector.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the sake of completeness, but at the risk of going &lt;em&gt;off-topic&lt;/em&gt;, the connector to the printer controller board is often a DuPont, and not a JST, &lt;em&gt;particularly in&lt;/em&gt;, but not limited to, Arduino (Atmel/AVR based) boards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the same website, this page &lt;a href=&quot;https://gulfcoast-robotics.com/pages/stepper-cable-for-ramps-pinout&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Stepper cable for RAMPS pinout&lt;/a&gt;, shows the DuPont connector to the control board and the JST-PH-6P connector to the stepper motor (I've not fixed the typos in the quoted text):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This pinout information will help you to use our 1 meter stepper&#xA;cables correctly. Cable was made to be compatible with 6-pin JST&#xA;connectors on NEMA 17 stepper on one side and RAMPS board connector&#xA;(also called dupont connector) on other side. Main feature of RAMPS&#xA;stepper header and this cable is that you can reverse stepper&#xA;direction by turning connector on RAMPS 180 degree.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This cable is aslo compatible with CNC V3 shields for Arduino UNO and&#xA;other electronic boards for 3D Printers and CNC control. Please&#xA;observe the following piut diagram to make sure that your particular&#xA;electronic board is compatible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HQsxu.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Female DuPont connectors for the control board (4 pin) and JST for the stepper motors (6 pin PH)&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HQsxu.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Female DuPont connectors for the control board (4 pin) and JST for&#xA;the stepper motors (6 pin PH)&quot; title=&quot;Female DuPont connectors for the control board (4 pin) and JST for the stepper motors (6 pin PH)&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Note&lt;/strong&gt;: I'm not promoting this particular website, it just so happens that they have the best comparison photos.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strike&gt;Maybe&lt;/strike&gt; It is most likely &lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;not&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt;... JST XH 2.54 6 pin female&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ECbqm.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;JST XH 2.54 6 pin female&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ECbqm.png&quot; alt=&quot;JST XH 2.54 6 pin female&quot; title=&quot;JST XH 2.54 6 pin female&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and the reverse side, showing the locking, with the male PCB connector&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vSZYE.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;JST XH 2.54 6 pin female - reverse side with locking mechanism&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vSZYE.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;JST XH 2.54 6 pin female - reverse side with locking mechanism&quot; title=&quot;JST XH 2.54 6 pin female - reverse side with locking mechanism&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4762" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2021-11-18T15:36:02.137" LastActivityDate="2021-11-18T15:36:02.137" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18388" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18385" CreationDate="2021-11-17T12:40:40.313" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Short answer: It's probably 6 pin JST PH&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Long answer:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Without seeing the socket, it's hard to say for sure, however most Nema 17 stepper motors use 6 pin JST PH connectors with 2.0mm pitch on the motor side. Many control boards use JST XH connectors with 2.5mm pitch on the board side. The two are not compatible with each other due to a difference in pitch and the locking mechanism.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looking at the sockets there is a clear visual difference: PH has a wide cutout while XH has two slots.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Rrxs3.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Rrxs3.png&quot; alt=&quot;PH 6 pin socket&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;PH vs XH&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/szUJt.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/szUJt.png&quot; alt=&quot;XJ 6 pin socket&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The difference on the plug side is more subtle. XH has small hooks that grab onto the slots while PH has not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's a good reference at &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mattmillman.com/info/crimpconnectors/common-jst-connector-types/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;mattmillan.com&lt;/a&gt; which helps to identify different types of JST connectors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: Usually the easiest and the cheapest option is to buy a pre-made stepper motor cable that fits your control board. However if it's not available in a length you need or re-wiring is hard, you will need connectors and a crimp tool with jaws specifically made for these types of connectors. The cheapest option is probably to borrow one if you can, these can cost a pretty penny.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Answering the second part of your question is tricky. Searching through parts catalogs is too time consuming. Using google image search or google lens to search with images taken from multiple angles is a good start to narrow it down but does not guarantee success.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14319" LastEditorUserId="14319" LastEditDate="2021-11-17T13:01:14.360" LastActivityDate="2021-11-17T13:01:14.360" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18390" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-11-17T15:53:45.243" Score="-1" ViewCount="482" Body="&lt;p&gt;In terms of Mb, rather than volume, what is the largest file size that the Elegoo Saturn 3D printer is capable of handling in a single print?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How is this limit determined, for example, is it due to a limit on the board, or in the Chitubox file format, or in some other way?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="29097" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2021-11-18T10:34:53.563" LastActivityDate="2021-11-18T10:34:53.563" Title="What is the largest file (in terms of storage space\mb) that can be printed on an Elegoo Saturn?" Tags="|file-formats|elegoo-saturn|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18391" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18390" CreationDate="2021-11-17T16:24:03.320" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not an Elegoo Saturn, but an Anycubic printer is my device. I've noted that each layer is loaded from the flash drive moments prior to the burn/flash/print. I suspect this method is used in many printers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you consider that even a large LCD panel requires only to present an open path for UV light or a closed path for each pixel, the amount of data required for a full printed layer or a fully empty layer is quite small in terms of bytes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Non-monochrome LCD panels would use more data, as each pixel is defined in three colors (or none) compared to monochrome (on/off).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I believe that my printer uses the Chitubox board system, making the similarities to yours a valid comparison.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your limitations would be based on the size of the medium containing the file as well as the physical size of the print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastActivityDate="2021-11-17T16:24:03.320" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18393" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-11-18T18:39:22.610" Score="0" ViewCount="39" Body="&lt;p&gt;Due to the surprisingly high cost, including shipping, of large water tanks (say, 100 gallons), I'm evaluating the possibility of creating one via 3d printing. (The pieces would of course have to be printed in chunks and fused together in a durable and watertight fashion-- I'm assuming for now that this can be done. It seems like a separate question, but feel free to address it in the comments.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The question at hand is: is there any filament suitable for the task? The container needs to be able to sit out in the sun year-round without becoming nonfunctional.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The resources I've been reading (linked below) are suggesting PLA filament for small kitchenware items, but from what I've heard, that tends to degrade pretty quickly in the sun.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are any filaments suitable for this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.instructables.com/3D-Printing-Make-Water-Tight-and-Air-Tight-Contain/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.instructables.com/3D-Printing-Make-Water-Tight-and-Air-Tight-Contain/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://all3dp.com/2/waterproof-3d-print-pla/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://all3dp.com/2/waterproof-3d-print-pla/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://all3dp.com/weekend-project-how-to-3d-print-watertight-and-airtight-containers/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://all3dp.com/weekend-project-how-to-3d-print-watertight-and-airtight-containers/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30880" LastActivityDate="2021-11-18T18:39:22.610" Title="Any filaments sun-safe and watertight?" Tags="|filament-choice|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="10" ClosedDate="2021-12-02T14:47:05.807" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18394" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-11-19T02:41:01.390" Score="1" ViewCount="240" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been reading that glass plates are really good, and the bed plates with the Makerbot Replicator+ are all not so good (I have had curling issues).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So here's the thing: thus far I've been able to cut the curling down by a) putting down a layer of gaffer tape, this seems to work well, and b) some Aqua Net which also seemed to work pretty well too at least so far (fingers crossed on latest print). I also found that simply putting a plastic bin on top of the Replicator + and using paper sheets (basically a huge pad with post-it strips on the top that I cut up) seems to do a reasonable job of keeping the temperature even -- the Z18 I use never seems to have curling problems and I suspect that temperature constancy is a huge factor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyhow, I wondered what would happen if I tried to put a glass plate on top of the bed. I am assuming that I'd have to set the Z offset to like, a whole 4 mm or something crazy and that I'd probably end up with a printer crushing the extruder against a hard surface and all kinds of terrible things would ensue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To be clear, I was thinking, get a sheet of tempered glass, clip it onto the build plate with like, binder clips or something. Replicator + build plates aren't heated, so I figured at the very least I ran the risk of having an extruder shoved forcefully into a glass plate which then proceeds to break in half.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So thoughts? Is putting a glass sheet down a really stupid idea? Like crazy stupid? It's not like I have a super duper urgent problem here, but I was curious.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31967" LastActivityDate="2021-11-19T13:28:12.777" Title="Can I put a glass plate in a Replicator+?" Tags="|build-plate|replicator+|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18395" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18394" CreationDate="2021-11-19T11:47:15.343" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, you can add a sheet of glass to virtually any 3D printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;But&lt;/strong&gt;, having a heated bed is pretty essential to printing on glass. Although it is possible to use a glass bed on an unheated 3D printer, it isn't recommended to do that as you'll be running into issues with adhesion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Glass beds work best when you apply heat and an adhesive like glue stick, hairspray (both are pretty obsolete nowadays) or preferable dedicated print adhesion sprays (3DLAC, DimaFix, MagicGoo, etc...).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Glass, when heated will provide:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A very flat surface (aids in leveling)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A very flat and shiny/mirror finish bottom layer (great when gluing halves together)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A means to take out the build surface with the print to cool elsewhere (when the glass cools, the prints usually dislodges itself due to differences in temperature expansion)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A means to quickly change the build surface to start a next print on a new sheet of glass&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A surface that can easily be cleaned with common household products (glass does provide enough resistance against more aggressive cleaning solutions as well)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-11-19T13:28:12.777" LastActivityDate="2021-11-19T13:28:12.777" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18398" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15843" CreationDate="2021-11-20T00:35:38.150" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had this problem when I switched to the aluminum dual gear extruder. The spring was too strong and was crushing the filament out of its round shape into more of an oval profile as it fed into the Bowden tube. This caused excess friction in the Bowden tube, which stressed the extruder stepper motor and caused it to heat up, which transferred through to the aluminum dual drive. This in turn softened the filament in the drive and cause it to lose even more shape, increasing the friction in the tube and further stressing the stepper in a self-perpetuating cycle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No print lasted more than a couple of hours before the filament jammed in the extruder and I was air printing. The solution was to remove the stronger yellow spring and replace it with the weaker bare metal spring that came with the stock extruder. It's not strong enough to distort the filament and problem solved.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are using the stock extruder then the source of friction maybe somewhere else in the filament feed chain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="32023" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-11-20T01:12:26.897" LastActivityDate="2021-11-20T01:12:26.897" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18399" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-11-20T00:56:26.193" Score="1" ViewCount="151" Body="&lt;p&gt;I own an Ender 3, it's about 3 years old and the issues I have with extrusion, leaking and filament blockage are monstrous.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Examples of problems like this are filament flow issues, filament blockage, and filament leaking out of the sides.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Problems like this take all day to fix, and in the end, they are never really fixed. Everything is so overbearingly finicky.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not only that, but it seems one of its parts breaks down about every week (this may just be due to its age but I thought I would note it.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems I run into the exact same problems every single time I 3D print. Nothing ever seems to go right. I am getting really tired of it, and I'm wondering if these kinds of problems aren't so frequent/ as big of a deal with more expensive (better) 3D printers, or if this is just normal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23125" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-11-20T01:13:54.117" LastActivityDate="2023-01-26T09:46:59.317" Title="Do print issues (extrusion, blockage, etc...) become less of a problem with more expensive printers?" Tags="|filament|bed-leveling|extrusion|cleaning|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18400" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18380" CreationDate="2021-11-20T01:46:46.187" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;What software do you use? Your nozzle diameter seems to be selected incorrectly or you have a slightly enlarged nozzle. Buy an unused nozzle and make your bed adjustments again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Select correct a nozzle diameter (such as 0.4 mm, 0.6 mm) and slice your print again. For PLA, I suggest using 200-215 °C for better layer adhesion and using the fan to make prints look better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27788" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-11-20T04:59:56.793" LastActivityDate="2021-11-20T04:59:56.793" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18402" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-11-20T12:54:15.870" Score="1" ViewCount="125" Body="&lt;p&gt;I’ve been trying to level my bed for close to a week now and I don’t know what I’m doing wrong. I thought buying new springs and a glass bed would fix the problem, but it didn’t really help. I either have to raise the bed so high that almost no filament comes out or so low that there’s no adhesion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the attached photo there’s my last attempt. What should I do to fix those tears which run along the edge of the entire print&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gTLip.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Bad first layer showing tears along the edge of the print&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gTLip.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Bad first layer showing tears along the edge of the print&quot; title=&quot;Bad first layer showing tears along the edge of the print&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="32028" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2021-11-20T13:42:15.207" LastActivityDate="2021-11-20T13:42:15.207" Title="Can’t get a proper first layer on my Ender 3 pro" Tags="|creality-ender-3|bed-leveling|adhesion|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18403" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18399" CreationDate="2021-11-20T14:45:02.190" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.germanreprap.com/printer/x400EN.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;German RepRap printer&lt;/a&gt;, which is very expensive compared to many of the printers in the questions on this list. I still see similar printing issues on a RepRap to other printers. The settings often control the issues. The RepRap however has a much larger print area than most of the printers referred to on this list.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15075" LastEditorUserId="4625" LastEditDate="2023-01-16T14:06:03.770" LastActivityDate="2023-01-16T14:06:03.770" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18405" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18485" CreationDate="2021-11-21T00:08:22.457" Score="3" ViewCount="738" Body="&lt;p&gt;Alright, long story but I want to provide as much detail as possible:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a heavily modded Ender 3 Pro.  Mods include:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Metal Extruder&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Capricorn PTFE tube&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Glass bed with improved leveling nuts&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;BLTouch&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;LED strip&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Dual Z-axis motors with the recent addition of BTT E3 RRF control board (and IDEX module so that it could do &lt;code&gt;G34&lt;/code&gt; auto-align) (most recent additions)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm using Overture Brand white PLA and for the first print that messed up (pic below), I was using the default &amp;quot;generic PLA&amp;quot; Cura settings for an Ender 3 pro.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The problem:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyhow, it caused this kind of print:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/46TAX.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;3D benchy with printing errors&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/46TAX.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;3D benchy with printing errors&quot; title=&quot;3D benchy with printing errors&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a few angles where it actually looks pretty good.  The hull is fairly smooth, the first layer went down well, the roofs and bridging look tolerable, but as you can see, especially around the &amp;quot;pillars&amp;quot; it looks I don't know... under-extruded?  Like the lines don't connect very strongly.  In fact, it might be hard to tell from this photo but the bottom actually ripped off when I took it off the plate, mostly due to weak connections between each layer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What I've tried:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I pretty much went step by step through Teaching Tech's &lt;a href=&quot;https://teachingtechyt.github.io/calibration.html#intro&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;calibration guide&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I started by getting out my bubble level and 90-degree gauge and just making sure the frame/bed/everything was level and perpendicular to each other and everything.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I did the E-steps calibration until I reliably got 100 mm when I asked for 100 mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;My first layer had never been a problem (especially with BLTouch and glass bed), so I skipped that step.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I did the baseline print.  My first one looked like the top of the cube had some under extrusion (you can see through it if you look closely in this photo&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YnEzD.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YnEzD.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I did the slicer flow calibration and actually it came out a little tiny bit too big (which would indicate I need to turn down the flow), but as Teaching Tech mentioned at the bottom of the page, you can't always trust that so I didn't end up making any changes to flow.&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Worth pointing out, in this photo of the Slicer Flow calibration cube, you can see some weird holes where the nozzle would be kinda late starting a line.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2xyq9.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2xyq9.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The stepper motor driver current thing confuses me but I had previously set the current of both Z-axis' to the values I've seen in several YouTube videos, including Aurora.tech's channel where she covered the same BTT IDEX board and dual Z's.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I did the temperature tuning and it seems like for this PLA 210 °C seems to work well.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;At this point I felt like retraction tuning was the problem and would fix everything, but with the default speeds in Teaching Tech's sample print, distances from 0-8 mm didn't seem to do anything differently in this print:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uUyXL.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uUyXL.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I never ended up doing the acceleration tuning&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;For the linear advance, I changed the k value to 0.4&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I don't have a dial gauge to do the XYZ steps calibration&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Long story short, with those few changes I redid the calibration cube and the benchy and they look maybe 5% better but still weird.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My Z-axis squeaks sometimes when moving through a spot 5-10 mm off the bed, so I lubricated them according to the &lt;a href=&quot;https://letsprint3d.net/how-to-lubricate-z-axis-lead-screw-3d-printers/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;guide here&lt;/a&gt;, but I did that prior to that second benchy so it didn't seem to solve it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After I first posted this, I decided to dive deeper into that squeaky Z-axis.  I triple, super-duper checked that both Z threaded rods were parallel to each other and neither was warped/curved/etc...  They seem fine.  I lubricated them both a bit more and using G-code told the printer to jog the Z-axis up and down the length of the rods about 20ish times.   The squeak did eventually go away so I printed another benchy.  No dice.  Still looks bad.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Per Criggie's answer, I disabled the steppers and moved the axes around to see if they moved smoothly.  Both X and Y move great with steppers disabled and then are pretty firm normally.  Z is pretty stiff no matter what but that may be intentional.  I previously had problems with my Z-axis falling down when prints were over so I &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Lpc1bTsSpRA&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;installed anti-backlash nuts&lt;/a&gt; and with two anti-backlash nuts (one on each rod) I'm not surprised it doesn't want to fall.  But again, when I just tell it to move, it moves very smoothly.&#xA;For instance, I just got out my micrometer and measured the Z movement.  I told it to move 100 mm up using OctoPrint and measured the actual movement.  Seemed to be 100 on the dot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a BTT filament sensor in the filament path prior to the extruder.  I noticed it provided a little friction and I was concerned it was making it hard for the extruder to pull the filament.  I removed it, but no improvement in print quality.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One other strange thing I've noticed is the benchy always looks bad in the same spot (the pillars).  Makes me wonder WHY it's always that exact spot, not randomly all over.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's got to have something to do with under-extrusion or flow.  I think I ruled out the Z-axis.  I made a &amp;quot;tall&amp;quot; benchy by modifying the benchy file to have a platform underneath it.  This bumped it up a few cm and the problem still happened in the same spot on the pillars of the benchy (which is now in a completely different spot on the Z.&#xA;Also, given the &amp;quot;flow&amp;quot; preview in Cura:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TNvq4.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TNvq4.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That circled low flow area is where it always messes up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So now to figure out why it's got low flow.  Again, I calibrated the E-steps and it seems to be accurate.  I've also printed benchy's where I told Cura to have 110% flow just to check.  The last one I attempted didn't just fail, it failed big time and became a blob at that same spot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wonder if the extruder gear is worn and slipping and/or the Capricorn PTFE tube is too restrictive for the &amp;quot;budget&amp;quot; filament brand I'm using that might have trouble sliding through it.  I have replacement steel extruder gears showing up Tuesday, will update my question then.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15186" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-11-30T04:43:11.450" LastActivityDate="2021-11-30T04:43:11.450" Title="Can't 'tune' out my problem, please help!" Tags="|creality-ender-3|calibration|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18406" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18372" CreationDate="2021-11-21T00:29:35.393" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Confirmed - 2 part epoxy works fine between PLA and other things.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I used &amp;quot;selleys&amp;quot; brand, and found that the fastest-setting 5 minute version worked fine, but on paper produces a &amp;quot;weaker&amp;quot; bond than the slow-curing one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The 5 minute version also has a distinct odour of cat pee, which is not present in the slow version.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Downside, the slow version took 2 days to harden completely, but my item is definitely secured together well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.selleys.co.nz/products/adhesives/heavy-duty-repairs/selleys-araldite-super-strength/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.selleys.co.nz/products/adhesives/heavy-duty-repairs/selleys-araldite-super-strength/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;NOTE that the above link says&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not suitable for bonding plastics such as Polypropylene and Polyethylene&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VQwRG.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VQwRG.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Own work&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qJwvd.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qJwvd.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Own work&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12956" LastActivityDate="2021-11-21T00:29:35.393" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18407" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18405" CreationDate="2021-11-21T05:28:16.590" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I see positional errors in X and Y, but Z looks okay.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That suggests one or both of your belts is stretched, perhaps damaged, or maybe just loose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Try engaging the stepper motors in the device's panel and push the head left/right or pull the bed toward/away from you.  They should both resist handforce, and you then feel like it needs to be pushed with full arm/shoulder force to move it (but don't actually force anything with that level !!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There should be none/almost no play in X or Y with the steppers locked/engaged.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then disable the stepper motors in the same menu, and both bed and head should slide with one finger's push.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This test does not work for Z but that axis seems fine in your benchy print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also check the condition of the drive/tension pulleys at either end of the belts.  There should be no powdered plastic from the cogs, nor rubbery bits from the belt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I cannot see any over/under extrusion, so the extruder/drive is probably okay.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12956" LastActivityDate="2021-11-21T05:28:16.590" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18408" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-11-21T09:56:38.770" Score="0" ViewCount="182" Body="&lt;p&gt;My Prusa i3 MK3S printer experienced a partial clog last time I was printing with nylon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although I've experienced clogs and partial clogs before, all the usual tricks I've tried have not worked this time; using an acupuncture needle to dislodge the blockage, running cleaning floss filament through at 285 °C, as well as numerous hot and cold pulls.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Despite all of the above, and being able to run some filament through the nozzle manually, as soon as I start to try and print, there is too much resistance for the extruder to force the filament through the nozzle and the Bondtech gears just grind up the filament instead of extruding it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've also removed the PTFE tube and checked that and it's in perfect condition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there anything else I can try to try and clear the blockage? I'm highly reluctant to change the nozzle, as last time I did this, I bent the heatbreak despite following Prusa's instructions to the letter - the nozzle was just too seized in the heat block, I assume with degraded/encrusted filament.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7405" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-11-21T14:02:32.903" LastActivityDate="2021-11-21T23:58:34.760" Title="Clearing persistent partial clog after printing nylon" Tags="|prusa-i3|troubleshooting|extrusion|underextrusion|maintenance|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18409" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18465" CreationDate="2021-11-21T13:39:00.673" Score="1" ViewCount="904" Body="&lt;p&gt;My printer seems to be responding poorly to some of the prints I provide it with. At a certain time, usually after at least half an hour.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, the print I tried today (twice) kept crashing somewhere after 52 minutes. Both times at the same spot. It would instantly reboot, ask to continue and even if I did it would crash again at the end of the backtracking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A couple of things come to mind:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;PSU/motherboard responding poorly to some set of actions. Doing the same actions again triggers the same problem.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Slicer producing illegal actions in some situations, causing the motherboard to panic.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Firmware being bugged, responding poorly in some edge cases.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other prints work fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How would I go about finding what's causing the reboots?&#xA;As a workaround, I'd accept a method of finding out whether a specific print would have this behaviour (incl. looking at the resulting gcode if that helps), without having to waste an hour (or more) of time and material each time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;System:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;CR-6 SE.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Recent &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/CR6Community/Marlin/tree/v2.0.7.3-cr6-community-release-6&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Community Firmware&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Stock parts except for the cold-end extruder, that's switched out for an all-metal dual-gear.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Creality Slicer 4.8.2.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Note:&lt;/em&gt; I feel obligated to mention the printer is on an unearthed power socket (old building, only ground floor has a couple of earthed sockets). This might make parts of the system less forgiving than it would otherwise, but I'm not sure about that. Internal wiring of the printer (for as much as it's accessible) seems fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4897" LastActivityDate="2021-11-27T20:15:44.830" Title="CR-6 SE rebooting at fixed moments in print" Tags="|troubleshooting|power-supply|creality-cr-6|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18411" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18412" CreationDate="2021-11-21T17:46:06.583" Score="6" ViewCount="13236" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm returning to 3d printing and there's all sorts of new things going on.  One of which is a silicone sock.  I suspect it's part of the engineering where you want to keep certain parts hot, and certain parts cold, and it assists with that, but I'm not sure.  Internet searches have been degrading, and have degraded a lot in the past year or so, so I can't find anything on the subject on how and why, just products.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When do you need a silicone sock?  What problem does it solve?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My Ender 3v2 came with one, but apparently previous generations did not.  My other printers do not have an option for them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5576" LastActivityDate="2021-11-22T14:03:39.213" Title="When do you need a silicone sock? What problem does it solve?" Tags="|hotend|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18412" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18411" CreationDate="2021-11-21T18:21:02.137" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;A silicone sock helps keep the heat from the hot end from radiating down onto the freshly-printed parts, which have a blower fan cooling them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The sock also helps keep the hot end hot and away from that stream of room-temperature cooling air blowing at the part.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As such, the sock is a thermal isolator, helping to keep the hot bits hot and the cooler bits cool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally, silicone rubber is pretty good at not sticking to hot filament. If your print goes bad and produces &amp;quot;spaghetti&amp;quot; then the sock will mitigate how much plastic gets stuck to the hot end.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12956" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-11-22T14:03:39.213" LastActivityDate="2021-11-22T14:03:39.213" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18413" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18417" CreationDate="2021-11-21T20:00:59.077" Score="1" ViewCount="2368" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a local Microcenter and got some cool orange PETG+.  I've never printed with PETG before, but this PETG+ stuff seems flexible and weak.  I printed a random part with some thin walls, and when I squeezed it, I broke the thin walls.  Interestingly, not across layer lines.  The same part in ASA (or ABS? I can't recall) is sufficiently strong and durable, and much less flexible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm reprinting at 100% infill (the first one was 20%), but looking at the place that it broke, I don't see infill. It's ~2 mm thick there, so I'm pretty sure that it's solid.  I printed at 240 °C, and my reprint is going at 250 °C.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd like to check what this PETG+ stuff is better at than regular PETG, so I'd like to look at what the manufacturer has to say about it, and the rest of the internet. Who makes this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We know that Inland PLA+ is made by eSun, and when I mentioned that to the local Microcenter 3D printer expert, he said as much too.  Here's a &lt;a href=&quot;https://old.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/comments/ki76dj/inland_petg_is_working_pretty_well_so_far/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;reddit post&lt;/a&gt; speculating.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.microcenter.com/product/626527/inland-175mm-orange-petg-3d-printer-filament-1kg-spool-(22-lbs)&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Product page&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5576" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-11-22T00:01:00.307" LastActivityDate="2021-11-22T02:51:08.893" Title="What OEM is Inland PETG+?" Tags="|petg|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18414" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18408" CreationDate="2021-11-21T21:55:57.810" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I always used electric guitar strings. They are 0.05 mm smaller than the nozzle and because of the texture it scratches off any material that is stuck. Plus since it's not hard there's is almost no chance to damage the nozzle&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="32042" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-11-21T23:58:34.760" LastActivityDate="2021-11-21T23:58:34.760" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18415" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18399" CreationDate="2021-11-21T22:09:10.113" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Get a real E3D nozzle/extruder and  90 % of the problems disappear. The problem with cheap printers is that they use copies that are poorly build and low quality materials. After that if you want to improve even more you got to get a dual gear system for your extruder motor or a good gear and a body that you can adjust the tension in small steps.&#xA;Besides that, just check if your steppers are well calibrated and do a proper extrusion test&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="32042" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-11-22T00:01:07.000" LastActivityDate="2021-11-22T00:01:07.000" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18416" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18373" CreationDate="2021-11-21T22:34:36.203" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I solved this issue by using a multimeter to measure the resistance across both the thermistor and the heater cartridge. The resistance for the Ender 3 Pro are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Thermistor ~ 100k ohms&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Heater Cartridge ~ 14.4 ohms&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My thermistor showed a resistance within the correct value, however my heater cartridge had a resistance of 0 ohms.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31958" LastActivityDate="2021-11-21T22:34:36.203" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18417" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18413" CreationDate="2021-11-22T00:44:42.950" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I talked to the guy at the local Micro Center.  He said that Inland PETG+ was OEM'd by eSun, and that Inland PETG was OEM'd by Polymaker.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5576" LastEditorUserId="5576" LastEditDate="2021-11-22T02:51:08.893" LastActivityDate="2021-11-22T02:51:08.893" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18418" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-11-22T01:40:18.537" Score="1" ViewCount="375" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have used OpenSCAD to design a couple of basic things.  However, I'm incredibly frustrated by the current state of CAD software: it's all browser based, or requires an internet connection.  Or has a learning curve like a cliff.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any offline, nonsubscription, no-account-needed CAD softwares meant for 3D printing enthusiasts that don't have a degree in CAD?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've seen plenty of tutorials that make it all look easy, and the softwares I have tried just don't do anything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;OpenSCAD is good for blocky well defined shapes and things, but right now I want to make a simple design to hold up a dowel. I've tried Blender and can't figure out how to give a dimension. Same for Sketchup Make 2017. I can't find a useful button in FreeCAD. I've tried Fusion 360 a while ago, but I hear that it recently took a major turn for the worse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to design some stuff without giving away my digital soul in the process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5576" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-11-22T08:44:56.107" LastActivityDate="2021-12-22T09:00:35.023" Title="Offline CAD software for beginners" Tags="|cad|openscad|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18419" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18418" CreationDate="2021-11-22T02:02:56.620" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm a fan of OpenSCAD but recognize the limitations within the program. Part of the feature bundle of OpenSCAD is the parametric aspect. If you want to aim in that direction and can handle a GUI type of CAD program, consider to check out &lt;a href=&quot;https://solvespace.com/index.pl&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;SolveSpace&lt;/a&gt;. All images courtesy of linked site.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mzXcA.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mzXcA.png&quot; alt=&quot;sample SolveSpace image 1&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UffFq.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UffFq.png&quot; alt=&quot;sample SolveSpace image 2&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally, there is a &lt;a href=&quot;https://solvespace.com/tutorial.pl&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Tutorial link&lt;/a&gt; on the site with a series of lessons to assist the transition to the program. The image below is the introductory tutorial part creation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's heavily keyboard biased, but for each key shortcut, there's an icon/GUI button option. As with many CAD programs, using the keyboard can be faster than searching for a sometimes-indistinct icon for a specific operation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VewBw.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VewBw.png&quot; alt=&quot;tutorial image&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's just an opinion, but Fusion 360 hasn't necessarily taken a turn for the worse, especially at the free hobbyist level. Change can be difficult, especially for us more mature computer uses (IBM 5150, anyone?) and F360 has managed to relocate/hide a number of features. It's a matter of finding them, but that adds to the learning curve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastActivityDate="2021-11-22T02:02:56.620" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18420" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-11-22T06:43:03.243" Score="1" ViewCount="51" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there such thing as a 3D printer with a very large diameter nozzle, that can make low fidelity, large and fast prints? I'm picturing a soft serve ice-cream machine on a gantry, with a hopper.  You feed it shredded plastic, and it prints bricks, or boards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="32043" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-11-22T08:42:30.203" LastActivityDate="2021-11-22T14:04:50.390" Title="Low fidelity 3D printer for plastic waste" Tags="|waste|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18421" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18399" CreationDate="2021-11-22T08:54:23.237" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;No not at all. The only way to eliminate issues is to practice and break things and learning how to fix it. I have 2 CR-10s, 1 CR-10S5, 1 CR-10 MINI, and 2 Anycubic Photons. They are all heavily modified, and the one thing i learned is that modifications only add to the problems&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="32049" LastEditorUserId="32049" LastEditDate="2021-11-22T09:00:40.650" LastActivityDate="2021-11-22T09:00:40.650" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18422" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18380" CreationDate="2021-11-22T09:04:42.263" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;That is an over extrusion and temp related issue, based on your picture. But to answer your question, make your layer height less and slow down your speed in the first 10 layers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="32049" LastActivityDate="2021-11-22T09:04:42.263" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18423" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18420" CreationDate="2021-11-22T11:32:01.133" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can certainly get large nozzles, but the material for extrusion still needs to be consistent.  So any chunked plastic would have to be melted and that will produce an erratic flow at the extruder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By reforming your shredded plastic into a consistent string of filament, then the printer has a steady supply of material to use.  There are already filament extruders for the small shop, but they're still expensive for the home user.  The main problems are getting consistent thickness of filament, and minimising contaminants.  Also colours tend to be lost and muddied.  These might be economical if you have a print farm and are consuming a spool a day on average.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On a large scale, there are &amp;quot;3d printers&amp;quot; that can place a special quick-drying concrete and produce small buildings as homes in a matter of days.  However they're fed a special mixture of smooth cement and accelerators to set the concrete ready for the next layer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/y1vWs.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/y1vWs.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Tecla 3d printed house&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12956" LastActivityDate="2021-11-22T11:32:01.133" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18424" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18420" CreationDate="2021-11-22T12:58:31.380" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes these exist. 3D printers using pellets is not uncommon for industry, but for the user at home this might be a different question. Pellets are the pre-fabricate before it is extruded into filament (small balls/cylinders of plastic).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0RIoy.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0RIoy.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;em&gt;Random image showing a variety of pellets in different colors&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are even processes to turn used plastic into pellets, so if you combine it all this should be very doable. The problem is to get a consistent type of waste plastic to feed your machine. The size of the nozzle doesn't matter, as long as your shredding, compressing and heating process can keep up with the flow you need. It would be an excellent idea to get rid of plastic waste and turning these into building bricks e.g. for insulation of heat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;I've seen prototype printers printing PEEK from pallets having a nozzle (slot) diameter of several millimeters.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-11-22T14:04:50.390" LastActivityDate="2021-11-22T14:04:50.390" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18425" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18427" CreationDate="2021-11-22T14:18:17.270" Score="3" ViewCount="873" Body="&lt;p&gt;Started up my Ender 3 today and the print killed halfway because my cat was messing with the cable to my octopi, but when I went to shut it off to reboot and the actual switch seems permanently on (as in stays on regardless of position). do I need a new PSU? and is this a known issue?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31152" LastActivityDate="2021-11-23T16:34:10.053" Title="My Ender 3 Pro power switch is stuck to on" Tags="|creality-ender-3|power-supply|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18426" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18376" CreationDate="2021-11-22T18:09:22.790" Score="0" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;what do you mean by SD card approach? The Makerbots take flash drives, but my attempts to print off of one were unsuccessful (it seems to be rather hard to make the right kind of file, it won't work with STLs and I gave up figuring out how to make them .makerbot files)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This sounds like you need a better basic understanding of the printing process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An STL file describes a shape you want to print, but it does not have all the information needed to actually print the object. In order to actually print the file, you need to know things like what material you will use (which will determine temperatures), what the capabilities of the machine are (how fast you can go), how much vertical detail is important to retain (layer thickness vs print time trade-off), and how strong the piece needs to be (trade-off between infill + wall thickness vs print time + material costs). You also need to specify things like how to orient the shape for best print results and what to do when there are steep overhangs or bridges.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To get this information, you must &lt;strong&gt;slice&lt;/strong&gt; the STL (or OBJ or 3DS) file.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a number of different software packages available to do slicing, many of them freely available: Cura and slic3r come to mind. Makerbot also has their own slicer. I know you can download and install Cura on a Mac.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The output of the slicer is usually a &lt;strong&gt;.gcode&lt;/strong&gt; file, and I would expect your Makerbots to be able to handle gcode files that were produced with the appropriate options. In fact, I strongly suspect the &amp;quot;.makerbot&amp;quot; file mentioned in your comment is actually a gcode file in disguise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why does this matter?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Print jobs can take hours and even days, and they tend to completely take over the computer while printing. No one wants to leave their laptop sitting next to a printer overnight, not able to do anything else. Newer printers will also have features like automatic resume from power loss, filament out detection, are more, that a are less likely to function properly when printing from a computer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's just too much that can go wrong while printing via computer, such that &lt;em&gt;you're pretty much always better off going with the SD card or USB option.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;sup&gt;*&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In other words, printing directly from your main computer is &lt;strong&gt;waaaaay&lt;/strong&gt; down the list. It's not the first, second, or even third of fourth option as the best way to do this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sub&gt;* A &lt;em&gt;dedicated&lt;/em&gt; print station can work well, when setup properly, and people often use OctoPrint installed on a Raspberri Pi in this way. However, this also implies a high-end laptop is complete overkill for the task.&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12562" LastEditorUserId="12562" LastEditDate="2021-11-22T18:25:57.770" LastActivityDate="2021-11-22T18:25:57.770" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18427" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18425" CreationDate="2021-11-22T19:25:33.650" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The mains switch is easily replaced - the part is widely available. Just make sure that the spade connectors go on securely and to the same positions as the old one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's how the wires are connected in my Ender 3's mains input:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/N8KxQ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/N8KxQ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Ender 3 mains input&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/B1Eq9.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/B1Eq9.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Ender 3 mains input, different angle&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The IEC mains connector is on the right in the first image. You can see the yellow wire goes to the earth connection of the PSU. The black wire goes to the neutral connection of the PSU. The live input goes via a wire strip to one end of the fuse, the other end of the fuse is connected to the central pole of the switch, and the on-position of the switch is connected to the live connection of the PSU via the red wire which leaves the picture.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The switch is on the left in the first image, and at the bottom in the second image.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11255" LastEditorUserId="11255" LastEditDate="2021-11-23T16:34:10.053" LastActivityDate="2021-11-23T16:34:10.053" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18428" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18429" CreationDate="2021-11-22T23:07:32.380" Score="2" ViewCount="115" Body="&lt;p&gt;Will a 3D scanner capture internal details within an enclosure?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm contemplating buying a 3D scanner, but they're pretty expensive so I'm looking for advice on whether they will actually be useful for the projects I have in mind. So with the picture below as an example, could I expect to generate a usable STL file by scanning this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iYiDz.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iYiDz.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Object&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31811" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-11-23T00:44:27.957" LastActivityDate="2024-03-15T13:54:48.970" Title="3D scanner capabilities" Tags="|scanning|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18429" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18428" CreationDate="2021-11-23T00:38:34.833" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you require precise scanning capability, for the purpose of reverse engineering, a photogrammetric scanner may not provide that precision. As you've noted, many scanners are quite expensive and with higher precision comes higher expense. The professional grade scanners will provide resolution figures based on a sample size. For example, a particular scanner will advise for 1.0 mm for an object of 1 meter (example, not necessarily reality) and the resolution may be worse for a larger item.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having a stationary object provides for a better result. Living beings tend to move, making it difficult to scan with any detail. Reflective objects may require a non-reflective coating (chalk paint) to remove detail-damaging specularities.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have what is known as a structured light scanner (SLS). It calibrates by using a known pattern and projects varying light/dark patterns on the calibration panel. This calibration sequence is then used when the object is scanned. The distortion and light/dark changes are then converted into the 3D mesh, which is later converted to an appropriate object, such as .STL, .OBJ or other formats.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the case of the object in the image, one would perform repeated scans while rotating the item on a turntable or similar work space. These are nested and processed by the software as noted above. With the walls, recesses and holes in the pictured item, it will be necessary to place the object in various orientations, by resting it on a flat side, or upside down. The software may automatically adjust the new scans, or may require point identification to begin the automatic sequence.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately, these SLS devices are also not particularly inexpensive, but such a term is fairly subjective. From a hobbyist standpoint, it could be considered big bucks. For a prototyping operation or especially from a production environment, the cost may be a small portion of the budget.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;David SLS is one such device. &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B00J5QN5K2&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Amazon&lt;/a&gt; has a listing (unavailable) as does Walmart (out of stock) priced at US$2360. Not inexpensive, but not astronomical. The listing from Amazon specifies 0.1% of overall size. For a 150 mm wide object, that would mean 0.15 mm resolution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastActivityDate="2021-11-23T00:38:34.833" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18430" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10" CreationDate="2021-11-23T03:10:48.637" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most plastic resins decompose under UV light from the sun.  The chains breakdown, and the plastic becomes a powder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From examining plastic parts for outdoor use, they typically have a stable pigment built into the plastic.  The pigment prevents the UV from penetrating into the object because the pigment stops or reflects the radiation.  A good choice for the pigment is titanium oxide. TiO is stable under UV light and heat, so it will not bleach and lost effectiveness.  As the plastic degrades in the outermost layer, the TiO remain effective until it loses all support from the plastic and is removed from the object.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;TiO is a bright white pigment, so the temperature of the object is lower than it would be if it were compounded with carbon black.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because TiO is inexpensive, I would expect it to be the pigment in most bright white filaments.  Not &amp;quot;natural&amp;quot; white, but true, bright white.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So to answer your question, I would pick the whitest version of whatever filament you would otherwise favor for the outdoors application.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2082" LastActivityDate="2021-11-23T03:10:48.637" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18431" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18428" CreationDate="2021-11-23T09:31:48.287" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;A more budget solution is presented in&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/7-om1dxKbN4?start=0&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;with lots of detail posted at &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.jeffgeerling.com/blog/2021/modeling-my-grandpa-3d-photogrammetry&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.jeffgeerling.com/blog/2021/modeling-my-grandpa-3d-photogrammetry&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Essentially it's some fancy PC software to stitch together a lot of digital photos of an object, and produce something you can print.  The code used was &lt;code&gt;COLMAP + OpenMVS&lt;/code&gt; and is explained in gratuitous detail in &lt;a href=&quot;https://peterfalkingham.com/2018/04/01/colmap-openmvs-scripts-updated/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://peterfalkingham.com/2018/04/01/colmap-openmvs-scripts-updated/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12956" LastActivityDate="2021-11-23T09:31:48.287" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18433" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-11-23T13:45:27.753" Score="1" ViewCount="2308" Body="&lt;p&gt;I thought I am not bad at Google, but simply I am unable to find a G-code for doing circular motion for nozzle cleaning. It is possible to write a simple circular motion in G-code?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6364" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-11-23T14:07:24.327" LastActivityDate="2021-12-23T18:00:30.037" Title="Drawing simple circle in G-code" Tags="|g-code|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2021-12-26T07:29:00.243" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18434" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18433" CreationDate="2021-11-23T14:10:09.557" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;To draw a circle, you need to approximate the circle as a sufficient number of line segments. This requires computing or using a table of sine and cosine values for each angle step. Then you just emit a sequence of &lt;code&gt;G1&lt;/code&gt; commands.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some printer firmware also supports arc drawing commands you could use instead in principle, but support is not widespread, and the quality of the results varies enough that I would not recommend trying to do it this way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2021-11-23T14:10:09.557" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18435" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18433" CreationDate="2021-11-23T17:12:11.257" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;While many 3D printers support using G2 and G3 for circles and arcs, most people are not used to them because the STL files consist entirely of flat triangles (straight lines).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want a simple 2D circle, see the following for help:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/G002-G003.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/G002-G003.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://makezine.com/2016/10/24/get-to-know-your-cnc-how-to-read-g-code/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://makezine.com/2016/10/24/get-to-know-your-cnc-how-to-read-g-code/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#G2_.26_G3:_Controlled_Arc_Move&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#G2_.26_G3:_Controlled_Arc_Move&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: it can take a while to get used to the I and J parameters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4922" LastActivityDate="2021-11-23T17:12:11.257" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18436" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-11-24T13:24:08.240" Score="0" ViewCount="46" Body="&lt;p&gt;I created some Marlin versions for Creality and Anycubic printers. Now I have a problem and want to ask if someone can help me, give some tips or something else.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Printer: i3 Mega Anycubic&#xA;I use the 2.0.bugfixes and took a configuration example from 2.0.8.1&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The firmware works, but the movement/travel from XY is very slow when I go to the next probe_point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Homing works great.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Only the probe_manually does not work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Steps to Reproduce:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Try Disable Auto bed&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;set up &lt;code&gt;XY_PROBE_FEEDRATE&lt;/code&gt; (100*60) higher&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;set &lt;code&gt;HOMING_FEEDRATE_MM_M&lt;/code&gt; higher&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;disable &lt;code&gt;AUTO_BED_LEVELING_BILINEAR&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Nothing helps&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It looks like the &lt;code&gt;xy_probe_feedrate&lt;/code&gt; would not be interpreted...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="32070" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-11-24T13:59:40.433" LastActivityDate="2021-11-24T13:59:40.433" Title="I3 Mega, PROBE_MANUALLY with ABL" Tags="|marlin|bed-leveling|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18437" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-11-24T14:16:12.257" Score="2" ViewCount="193" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to print large objects (around 1 meter squared) with polycarbonate pellets. The problem is sometimes the print cracks. It is not due to delamination as it is a shear crack across multiple layers. I know the ideal scenario is to have a heated enclosure but I cannot do that due to the size. Any suggestions?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am using a robotic arm (KUKA KR360) with a custom extruder. That is why I can't build the enclosure. As for the temperature, they are 230 to 260 °C. Nozzle is 10 mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;I like the idea of directed heat. I might try that.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31095" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-11-25T16:41:41.143" LastActivityDate="2023-08-11T16:34:53.787" Title="Large prints cracking" Tags="|print-quality|polycarbonate|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18438" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18437" CreationDate="2021-11-24T17:13:24.187" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Printing polycarbonate requires a high end 3D printer that is suitable for the task.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.simplify3d.com/support/materials-guide/polycarbonate/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Simplify3d support&lt;/a&gt; we learn that:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;... requires very high temperatures for printing and will &lt;strong&gt;exhibit layer separation if printed at too low of a temperature or with excessive cooling enabled&lt;/strong&gt;. Polycarbonate is frequently &lt;strong&gt;best printed on a machine that has an enclosed build volume&lt;/strong&gt; and is capable of handling high bed and extruder temperatures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;High temperatures and enclosed build volume are key to print polycarbonate without cracking or delamination.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any suggestions?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that NASA has successfully printed ULTEM (even higher temperatures needed) &lt;a href=&quot;https://ntrs.nasa.gov/citations/20170000214&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;using open source hardware&lt;/a&gt;. They have used infrared lamps directed at the build plate, this may be an option if a full enclosure is not possible. Also people seem to get good results with draft shields for printing ABS on non enclosed printers. Key is that a constant elevated temperature is created near the print, whether that works for such a large size remains to be seen. Best solution would be enclosing the printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2021-11-24T17:13:24.187" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18439" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18437" CreationDate="2021-11-24T21:29:04.090" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sounds like your problem is cooling, which would be mitigated by an enclosure to eliminate draughts and hold a higher air temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I made an enclosure using parts-on-hand and some printed PLA joiners.  It doesn't have to be fancy or expensive to work well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Details are at &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/18406/12956&quot;&gt;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/18406/12956&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next step is to sew some thermal &amp;quot;curtains&amp;quot; as sides and top.  As it is I simply hang some coats around the frame in the short term, and use a Pi camera inside to monitor the progress from remote.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12956" LastActivityDate="2021-11-24T21:29:04.090" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18440" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-11-24T22:24:34.403" Score="2" ViewCount="94" Body="&lt;p&gt;I re-assembled an i3 that used to be on a production line. It works OK when the layer height is set to 0.15 mm, but it over extrudes “A LOT” when used with a layer height like 0.06 mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At first I thought it was just “ANOTHER” random issue.&#xA;The same machine had:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;burnt 5 V regulator on the Arduino Mega&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;burnt display (as a result of the above)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;broken extruder stepper motor (would never extrude/retract the same amount, looked like re-assembled)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;overheating A4988 drivers with Vref extremely high (above specs)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;dual Z axis motors connected in parallel, requiring bigger drivers, but still using a single A4988&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;improperly assembled hotend that would clog constantly.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;screw to tighten the material (it didn't use a spring, which I prefer since it's more lenient with the material diameter)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I kept the RAMPS 1.4, and replaced/rewired everything else. Bought a 12 V PSU, installed a new display, added four DRV8825 modded for fast-decay configuration to replace the A4988, wired the dual Z axis in series, replaced the broken motor and everything looked finally OK.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But there is one single problem that remains:&#xA;picking any layer height below 0.15 mm causes issues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Imagine printing with a 100 % over-extrussion setting. Pieces look too wide, and you can clearly see the nozzle is &amp;quot;inserted&amp;quot; into the 3D piece because there is way too much material. I can't print small pieces because they become &amp;quot;bloated&amp;quot; and I have to stop printing after about 2 mm of height (on the Z axis) since I'm afraid the nozzle will eventually get stuck inside all the extra material.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Things I checked (other than the new components from above):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;X, Y and Z axis steps are properly calibrated&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The extruder is calibrated and it always extrudes the correct length of material&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Different steppings: 1/16 stepping when using the A4988 and 1/32 stepping with the new DRV8825.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Different slicers. Tried Ultimaker Cura and Slic3r (the original, not the Prusa version).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas on what may be the issue? I don't know what else to try.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30951" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-11-24T22:43:48.340" LastActivityDate="2021-11-24T22:43:48.340" Title="Over-extruding on small layer heights (0.06 mm), but fine above 0.15 mm?" Tags="|extrusion|material|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18441" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-11-24T22:50:26.880" Score="2" ViewCount="1327" Body="&lt;p&gt;Okay, this one is a bit weird as everything else on the printer (for the most part at least...) is working perfectly. Some minor adjustments here and there are needed but this issue has shown up recently since adding a BLTouch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After starting the print my printer regardless if I have it set up to wipe or not will them run the BLTouch (NOT the extruder, ONLY the BLTouch) into the side of the print bed. All of my offsets seem to be correct but for whatever reason, I can't seem to figure out what to correct to make this not run into the side of the bed as admittedly after the collision it prints fine! Any ideas?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(I have provided a video to give a better idea as to what exactly is going on as there are similar issues however they don't quite match my situation from what I've seen)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/mZUpl-X3EcY?start=0&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31892" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-11-25T22:33:29.877" LastActivityDate="2021-12-26T09:06:05.633" Title="BLTouch collides with side of bed when starting print AFTER leveling" Tags="|creality-ender-3|bltouch|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18442" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18499" CreationDate="2021-11-24T22:52:17.167" Score="1" ViewCount="1093" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to put in a date and serial number that would be difficult to erase or change. Is it better to print in the number or engrave it in with a laser engraver.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Material will be anti-bacterial PLA.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It will be on free masks donated to schools, I want to make sure we can identify them when they show up at the market or in shops.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31811" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-11-26T18:50:05.960" LastActivityDate="2021-12-04T20:56:59.503" Title="Best way to put a serial number on a 3D print" Tags="|pla|3d-design|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18443" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18442" CreationDate="2021-11-25T00:13:12.947" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's plastic. Nothing is difficult to remove, but it could be difficult to remove without damaging the functionality of visual quality of the part. If you want to be really devious, you could embed the serial number in an inaccessible cavity &lt;em&gt;inside the print&lt;/em&gt; that's not visible without breaking it open.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I wonder if it would make more sense to drop this. If you're worried about students (?) or educators (?) stealing and reselling these items, does having a way to trace and punish them really benefit anyone? Even before you consider the harms from doing so, isn't the effort spent tracing (and even the effort automating generation of STLs with each serial number and slicing each one to print individually, rather than using a single gcode job) greater than the value of the item you're worried about losing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2021-11-25T00:13:12.947" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18444" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18332" CreationDate="2021-11-25T00:36:36.980" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I finally got to the bottom of this. I found a small scratch in the channel of the x-axis gantry (no idea how it got there). The line in the print was at the point where one of the wheels was bumping over the scratch. I carefully filed it down and the line is now barely visible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31859" LastActivityDate="2021-11-25T00:36:36.980" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18445" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-11-25T14:40:21.957" Score="0" ViewCount="26497" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have just bought a Creality Ender 3 Pro. During setup, I think I must have applied an offset... The nozzle lifts up about 5 mm from the bed when starting to print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am reading that &lt;code&gt;M502&lt;/code&gt; resets to factory settings and &lt;code&gt;M500&lt;/code&gt; saves the settings. I have looked everywhere I can think of but am unable to find these files to download.&#xA;Can someone help me please? Where can I find these files?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="32079" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-11-26T06:47:59.050" LastActivityDate="2022-05-03T22:06:17.303" Title="Factory reset needed!" Tags="|creality-ender-3|firmware|reset|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18447" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18445" CreationDate="2021-11-25T20:59:11.720" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;code&gt;M502&lt;/code&gt; and &lt;code&gt;M500&lt;/code&gt; are not files, they are &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/G-code&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;G-code&lt;/a&gt; commands (well, they are &lt;em&gt;actually&lt;/em&gt; M-codes, but don't worry about that)&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To reset your printer to the factory default settings, simply connect a &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/q/10573/4762&quot;&gt;terminal&lt;/a&gt; and send &lt;code&gt;M502&lt;/code&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are using Linux, see &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/q/3112/4762&quot;&gt;How to directly send G-code to printer from a Linux terminal?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See also &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/q/11438/4762&quot;&gt;M502 will reset all configurable settings to their &amp;quot;factory defaults&amp;quot;, which settings are those?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; Simply put: G-codes control movement; whereas M-codes control other functions (which aren't movements).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4762" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2021-11-26T03:39:25.903" LastActivityDate="2021-11-26T03:39:25.903" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18448" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18441" CreationDate="2021-11-26T01:49:20.593" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The problem is not &lt;strong&gt;after&lt;/strong&gt; leveling, but &lt;strong&gt;during&lt;/strong&gt; leveling when probing the first point of the mesh. As it fails to detect the trigger point, it skips further levelling steps. As the probe doesn't retract it is bound to cause a problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This could potentially be a non-genuine Antclabs touch probe, which are of lower quality than the original Antclabs BLTouch. The original BLTouch has a screw on top which might be present here also, you could try to adjust it for it to retract better on triggering (see &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/16605/&quot;&gt;this answer&lt;/a&gt; for some more information on the working of a touch sensor). The screw attracts the magnet on the top of the probe pin, getting the screw closer (clockwise) to increase the attraction and thus make it easier to attract it back up when retracting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the probe retracts in the middle of the bed, it should retract at every point on the bed. If it does not retract, there is something wrong with the sensor. You could insert an additional spacer (0.5 - 1 mm) between the mount and the probe to make a little more distance between the nozzle and the probe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could be the angle of the video, but make sure the frame is at 90° angles and the bed is as level as possible. Note that when using a sheet of glass, it generally is not required to use a touch sensor for scanning the surface, glass is flat. You could check with a ruler on its side. Basically, &lt;code&gt;G29&lt;/code&gt; can be skipped by taking it out of the start G-code, the sensor will than only be used in the middle of the bed to home Z.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-11-26T08:18:37.993" LastActivityDate="2021-11-26T08:18:37.993" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18449" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-11-26T09:46:28.687" Score="1" ViewCount="194" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm currently printing on a glass bed and it is warped in the centre of the bed. Not by much, but enough that my prints aren't the quality I want them out. My work around at the moment is to print on a raft.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm thinking if I was to replace the glass bed with a aluminium bed. I know this has been asked before, but the difference is I can get the aluminium plate machined at 65 °C. By doing this will it remove the potential for a warp completely? Or will it still have the potential to warp even being machined at 65 °C?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14956" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-11-26T13:02:33.553" LastActivityDate="2021-11-27T09:50:31.297" Title="Machined Aluminium Print Bed" Tags="|heated-bed|bed-leveling|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18451" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18452" CreationDate="2021-11-26T12:17:50.297" Score="6" ViewCount="14236" Body="&lt;p&gt;When looking at &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Marlin firmware&lt;/a&gt; or reading on leveling of the printer bed the term ABL and UBL are frequently used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What are ABL and UBL?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Are they the same?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-11-27T14:09:42.683" LastActivityDate="2021-11-27T14:09:42.683" Title="What is ABL or UBL? Is this the same?" Tags="|marlin|bed-leveling|knowledgebase|terminology|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18452" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18451" CreationDate="2021-11-26T12:17:50.297" Score="5" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What are ABL and UBL?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;ABL&lt;/strong&gt; stands for &lt;strong&gt;Automatic Bed Leveling&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;UBL&lt;/strong&gt; stands for &lt;strong&gt;Unified Bed Leveling&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Level the bed?&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A level bed (twisting knobs under the bed), or a surface that is exactly followed by the nozzle is a prime requisite for 3D printing. Without a proper bed setup (not only level, but also the initial nozzle to bed surface gap; usually the paper thickness distance, but a feeler gauge will do a similar job), adhesion to the print surface might not be optimal and causes the print to get loose during printing or the first layer may not adhere at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;A leveling solution&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Over the years, 3D printing hardware and software has evolved to aid the 3D print operator. One such a solution is the use of a sensor (see e.g. &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/16604/automatic-bed-leveling-abl-with-a-sensor-bltouch-inductive-capacitive-how&quot;&gt;Automatic Bed Leveling (ABL) with a sensor (BLTouch, inductive, capacitive), how does it work?&lt;/a&gt;). But a dedicated sensor it not a prime requisite, you can also do it manually.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;ABL&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Automatic bed leveling comes in many forms, the use of a sensor to sense the proximity of the build surface (inductive, capacitive, optical or through physical touching) enabled scanning of the build surface. In the Marlin firmware, more specific in the &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/blob/2.0.x/Marlin/Configuration.h&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;configuration.h&lt;/a&gt; file of the firmware (note this is a generic one, your printer might need adaptions!), the following on automatic bed leveling is to be found:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;AUTO_BED_LEVELING_3POINT&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Probe 3 arbitrary points on the bed (that aren't collinear)&lt;br&gt;&#xA;You specify the XY coordinates of all 3 points.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;em&gt;The result is a single tilted plane. Best for a flat bed.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;AUTO_BED_LEVELING_LINEAR&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Probe several points in a grid.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;You specify the rectangle and the density of sample points.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;em&gt;The result is a single tilted plane. Best for a flat bed.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;AUTO_BED_LEVELING_BILINEAR&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Probe several points in a grid.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;You specify the rectangle and the density of sample points.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;em&gt;The result is a mesh, best for large or uneven beds.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that bilinear leveling is automatic leveling option that doesn’t require you to adjust any leveling knobs (but remember that &lt;em&gt;automatic leveling is &lt;strong&gt;not&lt;/strong&gt; magic&lt;/em&gt;, you still need to provide a bed as level as possible! see &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6904/does-auto-leveling-result-in-sheared-prints&quot;&gt;Does auto leveling result in sheared prints?&lt;/a&gt;), but it is laborious to use in the sense you typically have to run the multi probing points prior to printing, which can take some time depending on the grid size (see &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/8497/how-to-increase-the-amount-of-probing-points-for-a-bltouch-sensor-in-marlin-firm&quot;&gt;How to increase the amount of probing points for a BLTouch sensor in Marlin firmware?&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is where Unified Bed Leveling comes in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;UBL&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unified bed leveling (UBL) introduces a mesh-based software procedure in Marlin firmware similar to (ABL) bilinear leveling but with some extra features. From the &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/blob/2.0.x/Marlin/Configuration.h&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;configuration.h&lt;/a&gt; file:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;AUTO_BED_LEVELING_UBL&lt;/strong&gt; (Unified Bed Leveling)&lt;br&gt;&#xA;A comprehensive bed leveling system combining the features and benefits&lt;br&gt;&#xA;of other systems. UBL &lt;strong&gt;also&lt;/strong&gt; includes integrated Mesh Generation, Mesh&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Validation and Mesh Editing systems.&lt;br&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A UBL mesh is generally using more probing points than the (ABL) bilinear leveling equivalent to create a better digital representation (topography) of the used build surface. Bilinear meshes typically use 9-&lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/8497/how-to-increase-the-amount-of-probing-points-for-a-bltouch-sensor-in-marlin-firm&quot;&gt;25&lt;/a&gt; probing points, UBL meshes generally use 81-100 probing points to scan the surface more thoroughly. Note that this is up to you how you define this, the bottom line is that UBL is not something you do prior to every print, so you can get away with having some more probing points. Note to choose a value that is in line with the surface (type and size), for a flat glass surface 100 probing points might not be necessary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Essentially, the operator is presented a means to interact with the 3D printer to control the leveling to allows to easily store (save up to seven meshes), adjust, and swap multiple digitally stored leveling meshes on your printer to encounter the various print surfaces you may use like in multiple build plates.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main difference between UBL and the ABL systems is that UBL combines features of other leveling techniques to provide users with more control. With Unified Bed Leveling, you’re not technically required to have an automatic bed leveling sensor. Through the interface, you can manually create the mesh! As the machine is homed, the coordinate system is fixed, movement relative to the reference is used by each probing point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With so many points, creating UBL meshes can take a long time compared to other systems (certainly without a leveling sensor), but once the process is done, you don’t have to redo this again as the UBL features allow you to modify the probing points.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#G26:_Mesh_Validation_Pattern&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;code&gt;G26&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/a&gt; command is designed to use with mesh enabled leveling procedures (Marlin &amp;lt; 1.1.6 &lt;code&gt;AUTO_BED_LEVELING_UBL&lt;/code&gt; and since Marlin 1.1.7 it also works with &lt;code&gt;MESH_BED_LEVELING&lt;/code&gt; and &lt;code&gt;AUTO_BED_LEVELING_BILINEAR&lt;/code&gt;). The various options are described in the Marlin implementation of &lt;a href=&quot;https://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/G026.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;code&gt;G26&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Are they the same?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To sum up, ABL and UBL are the same in that some sort of procedure is used to scan the topography of the bed surface but they differ in the sense that for ABL you are required to have a automatic leveling sensor and choose less points while you can have more probe points using UBL including advanced features as editing and storing multiple meshes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2021-11-26T12:17:50.297" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18453" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18454" CreationDate="2021-11-26T12:45:59.397" Score="6" ViewCount="2682" Body="&lt;p&gt;A 3D printer needs to be homed (homing) before the print starts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What is homing?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What is the purpose of homing?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is it necessary?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="8353" LastEditDate="2021-11-26T18:37:18.527" LastActivityDate="2021-11-27T13:48:55.800" Title="What is homing? What is the purpose of homing?" Tags="|homing|knowledgebase|terminology|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18454" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18453" CreationDate="2021-11-26T12:45:59.397" Score="5" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What is homing?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/tags/homing/info&quot;&gt;tag wiki&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/homing&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;homing&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;homing&lt;/a&gt; we can read:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The process of determining the location of a 3D printer nozzle in&#xA;three dimension using a reference point (home location) is referred to&#xA;as &amp;quot;homing&amp;quot;. Homing should occur before every print and involves&#xA;bringing the X, Y and Z-Axis motors to pre-defined limit locations&#xA;(usually these are endstops). Pre-recorded homing data offset values&#xA;determine the position of the build plate origin with respect to the&#xA;endstop locations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What is the purpose of homing?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, homing is defining the printer coordinate system location with respect to a reference location we call &amp;quot;home&amp;quot;. Why? The controller board or steppers have no memory for storing their position and could have been manually moved. Once the axes have &amp;quot;seen&amp;quot; there reference location, the printer will remember to refer all movements in respect to this point (this may include offset values to get to the origin of the printer (see &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6375/how-to-center-my-prints-on-the-build-platform-re-calibrate-homing-offset&quot;&gt;How to center my prints on the build platform? (Re-calibrate homing offset)&lt;/a&gt;). Note, if a problem occurs where e.g. the nozzle hits the bed or print object, the nozzle may be out of sync with the reference point. Such an anomaly is e.g. layer shifting which occurs on open-loop stepper movement (servo steppers have feedback to prevent this from happening, but these are more expensive). The purpose of homing is to set a reference so that your sliced objects can be printed at the correct location within the printer print volume. If correctly configured, and no problems like layer shifting occur, the benefit is that proper homing prevent the machine to print within the limits of the printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is it necessary?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Strictly speaking, no, it is not necessary. But if you do not automatically set a reference for each axis, you would need to manually provide a position to start from. This can work just as well, but the use of end stops automate the procedure so that it is very easy for the printer operator. Some (of the cheaper) CNC machines do not have end stops, the operator needs to be aware to position the tool head of the CNC machine at the proper starting position.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-11-27T13:48:55.800" LastActivityDate="2021-11-27T13:48:55.800" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18455" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18453" CreationDate="2021-11-26T13:01:32.143" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most 3d printers control head position using stepper motors and end stops with no position feedback.  The stepper motor does not actually know its location.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The printer's control system can only know the location of the head by keeping track of the relative number of steps the head has been moved by the stepper motors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Homing moves all the axes in one direction until it hits the end stops for each axis.  Once that has been done, then the control system knows exactly where the head is and future relative motions can be offset from there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some control systems will move the axis at a relatively high speed (so you don't get bored, but not fast enough to cause damage) and then overshoot the end stop's activation point and stop.  Then they will back off to release the end stop and then move towards it more slowly to get a more exact reading of the activation point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the printer is idle, frequently the stepper motors are unpowered to save energy and keep the motors cool.  When the motors are unpowered, they can free spin (you can push the axis with your hand or the vertical axis might even slip a bit with gravity), so the position would be uncertain, and it would be necessary to re-home.   Once it has rehomed, the control system will keep the motors powered to prevent slipping.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is only necessary to home if you care about where the printer starts printing.  In theory, you could get away with only homing the vertical axis (so the print starts on a surface and the first layer is the correct thickness), and manually set the horizontal start position.  However, this might make using the full horizontal limits of the build area difficult if you didn't start it in the right place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28397" LastEditorUserId="28397" LastEditDate="2021-11-26T13:10:55.143" LastActivityDate="2021-11-26T13:10:55.143" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18457" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-11-26T18:13:46.740" Score="4" ViewCount="1781" Body="&lt;p&gt;When choosing which filament to use for a particular print does the color of the filament have any impact on it's performance, or is it purely a cosmetic choice?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, are there any side-by-side comparisons available that demonstrate that differences do\don't exist between different color filaments from the same company\range, such as a particular filament needing a hotter bed because the pigment changes it's properties?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="29097" LastEditorUserId="2338" LastEditDate="2022-01-24T12:41:53.177" LastActivityDate="2022-01-24T22:21:20.370" Title="Does the color of a filament effect its physical properties?" Tags="|print-material|print-strength|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18458" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-11-27T07:19:40.937" Score="3" ViewCount="2679" Body="&lt;p&gt;This has me stumped. I had been printing normally until this happened. Below is an expurgated version of my headache over two days. Some help would be appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Printer is Hypercube Evolution (CoreXY) using Bowden tube and eSun PLA+ filament. Bowden tube goes from inside the feed cone in the extruder straight through the heatsink and into the feed throat of the heatbreak. Genuine Titan Extruder. Extruder stepper has no label.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Started a new print. Printer was at ambient temperature of about 18 degrees. Printer brought up to temperature, 60° bed and 200° hotend. Bed homed and levelled in gcode. Print speed 60mm/s. Hotend moved to centre of bed and print started. No filament extruded and extruder stepper was making a grinding noise. Normally expect this to be hotend not hot enough. Altered pressure adjustment on the extruder. Made no difference. Cancelled print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lowered bed out of the way. Hotend to 225°. Attempted to extrude filament. Nothing other than extruder stepper grinding. Tried to retract filament, no motion and extruder stepper still grinding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Disassembled hotend. No problem removing nozzle. The heatbreak and the heatsink Bowden connections would not give. There was filament between the Bowden connector and the heatbreak. When this snapped, I could get the parts free. The heatbreak had stretched filament stuck in the feed throat. There was thickened filament in the Bowden tube preventing retraction. It is still in there and stuck. Extruder stepper replaced and VREF adjusted. New all metal 1.75mm heatbreak. Bowden tube replaced. Hotend reassembled.&#xA;Hotend to 200° and extruded 200mm of filament. There was some smoke from the hot end at first and the initial filament was burnt. Everything seemed to be working, hotend turned off and Z-offset calculated and stored.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lowered the bed, hotend back to 200°. The problem was back, could not extrude nor retract, extruder stepper grinding. I was able to withdraw the filament manually. The end was slightly thickened with a whispy &amp;quot;tail&amp;quot;. Cut the filament, hotend to 225° and re-fed filament. Acrid smoke initially from the hotend and filament extruded. Hotend allowed to cool to room temperature. Hotend to 225°. Filament would not extrude nor retract. Hotend turned off and left.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Disassembled hotend. Again, heatbreak and Bowden connections to heatsink would not give. Managed to manually feed filament whilst unscrewing heatbreak. The filament found is shown in the attached picture. The small thick bulge would seem to have occurred in the tiny area where the Bowden tube enters the feed throat of the heatbreak. The thin filament is stretching whilst trying to retract. After that can be seen where the filament has thickened again. Mangled filament trimmed and hotend reassembled making sure that the Bowden tube was seated in the heatbreak feed throat. Hotend to 200° and extruded 200mm filament. Tried a test print, not very good, but worked. Tried a second print, the problem was back again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has anybody any ideas how to solve this? I have also checked that the thermistor is reading correctly, changed the roll of filament (just in case I had a bad roll) and have replaced the extruder stepper driver.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iOIoz.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iOIoz.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Filament from the Hotend&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23909" LastActivityDate="2022-11-06T11:15:14.417" Title="Filament Jamming in Hotend. Why?" Tags="|hotend|extrusion|filament-jam|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18459" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16765" CreationDate="2021-11-27T09:31:47.573" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm having the exact same problem - it is enough to leave the filament inside the PTFE tube for an overnight and the next day the filament inside the tube is so brittle that I'm not even able to eject the filament without disconnecting the tube and getting out all small pieces of filament manually... but from my experience, it affects only cheap PLA filaments (like Creality ST-PLA) - I never had such issue with other types of filaments (ASA, PETG) or higher-quality brands of PLA (e.g Fillamentum, Filament PM...).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;BTW - there is a video on YouTube demonstrating the same issue: &lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/SvpSxHLotMI?start=0&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12696" LastEditorUserId="12696" LastEditDate="2021-11-27T09:53:50.160" LastActivityDate="2021-11-27T09:53:50.160" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18461" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18458" CreationDate="2021-11-27T12:51:04.727" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The lump at the top of the heatbreak is because there is a gap between your bowden tube and the heatbreak.  Liquid filament is leaking out of the heatbreak and solidifying there.  When you reassemble, you need to close this gap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There should not be smoke coming out of your nozzle.  Maybe when it is new, there might be a bit of oil that would smoke, but it should only do that once.  If you are getting burned filament, your nozzle temperature is too high.  Either the control system is overshooting and the temperature spikes, or your temperature sensor has a problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The thickened filament is worrisome.  With the filament jammed at the heatbreak, if the filament is soft, it might be getting compressed.  But PLA should not do this unless there is enough heat leaking into the bowden tube to soften it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28397" LastActivityDate="2021-11-27T12:51:04.727" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18463" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-11-27T15:56:34.787" Score="3" ViewCount="897" Body="&lt;p&gt;Neptune 2, Polyterra PLA at 200/45 °C, Cura 4.11.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm tuning the settings and one of the test prints is a keycap, all the corners except one print just fine, that problematic one shows heavy blobbing and is extremely rough, pic related.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've tried fiddling with the temp, speed (50 mm/s, persists even at 20), jerk speed (3 mm/s), retraction settings (3mm at 70 mm/s), flow (even at 90 %), Z seam related setting... But the problem still persists.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'll be monitoring this thread for a few hours, any input would be appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bT21O.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;The keycap&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bT21O.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;The keycap&quot; title=&quot;The keycap&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="32111" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2021-11-27T16:17:44.307" LastActivityDate="2023-08-04T09:00:46.487" Title="One rough corner with blobs" Tags="|print-quality|pla|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18464" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-11-27T17:35:02.413" Score="1" ViewCount="116" Body="&lt;p&gt;For some reason, the Creality Slicer 1.2.3 ignores the &lt;code&gt;M140&lt;/code&gt; and &lt;code&gt;M104&lt;/code&gt; commands completely, even if I put them at the very beginning of the start G-code. I have tried different variations (e.g. &lt;code&gt;M140 S60&lt;/code&gt;, &lt;code&gt;M140 S{material_bed_temperature}&lt;/code&gt;, &lt;code&gt;M140 S{material_bed_temperature_layer_0}&lt;/code&gt;, and none work with Creality Slicer 1.2.3.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Instead of starting the heating and not waiting to move to the next line, it waits to reach temperature as if it is an &lt;code&gt;M109&lt;/code&gt; or &lt;code&gt;M190&lt;/code&gt;. Does anyone have a similar experience or fix for the &lt;code&gt;M104&lt;/code&gt; and &lt;code&gt;M140&lt;/code&gt; commands in Creality Slicer 1.2.3? Using Creality Ender 3&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="32112" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-11-27T18:06:30.597" LastActivityDate="2021-11-27T18:06:30.597" Title="Creality 1.2.3 does not recognize M140 and 104?" Tags="|creality-ender-3|creality|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18465" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18409" CreationDate="2021-11-27T20:15:44.830" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Turns out this is the behaviour of files that get corrupted. This has very little to do with the slicer and everything with how some SD cards are just intent on getting themselves a bad name.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this case, the file was corrupted enough not to be readable on the machine that put the data on there. If the file can't be opened and made look readable by a normal text editor, it's probably corrupted and not worth trying to print. A quick scroll-through to check it's all there might be a good idea as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4897" LastActivityDate="2021-11-27T20:15:44.830" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18466" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18467" CreationDate="2021-11-27T20:44:39.323" Score="2" ViewCount="110" Body="&lt;p&gt;I encountered the following question in a manufacturing course.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZZL4W.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZZL4W.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;G20 G90 G28 &#xA;&#xA;M06 T1 &#xA;&#xA;MO3 S1000&#xA;&#xA;G00 X0 Y0 Z-0.25 &#xA;&#xA;G41 D1&#xA;&#xA;G01 X1 Y1 Z-0.25 F3&#xA;&#xA;G01 X5 Y1 Z-0.25 F3&#xA;&#xA;G01 X5 Y3 Z-0.25 F3&#xA;&#xA;G01 X1 Y1 Z-0.25 F3&#xA;&#xA;G00 X4 Y0 Z0.25 &#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But when you type the G code in &lt;a href=&quot;https://ncviewer.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;NCViewer&lt;/a&gt; the shape produced is not a rectangle. Also, I am not sure how the end mill diameter affects that of the rectangle. Can anyone explain how to solve this problem?&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/M59Ir.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/M59Ir.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="32115" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-11-27T22:38:59.520" LastActivityDate="2021-11-28T15:58:21.717" Title="Interpreting G-code to answer question about geometry of shape produced" Tags="|g-code|cnc|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18467" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18466" CreationDate="2021-11-27T22:36:16.237" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is no rectangle, the assignment is wrong. In order to make a rectangle, the G-code should have been:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;...&#xA;G01 X1 Y1 Z-0.25 F3&#xA;G01 X5 Y1 Z-0.25 F3&#xA;G01 X5 Y3 Z-0.25 F3&#xA;G01 X1 Y3 Z-0.25 F3 ; &amp;lt;-- missing line&#xA;G01 X1 Y1 Z-0.25 F3&#xA;...&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then the rectangle would have been 2 by 4 inches.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As noted in the comments, the assignment is even more unclear. The code shows an offset to be taken into account of tool &lt;code&gt;D1&lt;/code&gt; in the cutter compensation code &lt;code&gt;G41&lt;/code&gt;. It further doesn't specify the characteristics of that tool. If it is differently than the end mill currently in the tool head, than the difference in diameter between the &lt;code&gt;D1&lt;/code&gt; tool and the current 0.5&amp;quot; tool needs to be taken into account. The power of using cutter offset definitions is that the same code can be used for different tools, you only needs to set the correct offset. If the &lt;code&gt;D1&lt;/code&gt; tool is defined as a 1&amp;quot; diameter tool, the current tool is half that size, as there is a compensation for 1&amp;quot; at play while a half inch end mill is used, the end product will be larger.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-11-28T15:58:21.717" LastActivityDate="2021-11-28T15:58:21.717" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18468" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18535" CreationDate="2021-11-28T00:11:35.417" Score="1" ViewCount="939" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am trying to print this really cool &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4551901/comments&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;flying toy model&lt;/a&gt; on my &lt;a href=&quot;https://toybox.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;ToyBox&lt;/a&gt; 3D printer, but when I try to print the &amp;quot;copter_key-175.stl&amp;quot; file it complains it is a &amp;quot;non-manifold shape&amp;quot;. How can I fix this .stl file?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[update START]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Update for future readers:&lt;/em&gt;&#xA;I haven't tried it yet, but the Free and Open Source slicer software, &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/slic3r/Slic3r&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Slic3r&lt;/a&gt;, boasts this feature worth trying:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;auto-repair&lt;/strong&gt; of non-manifold meshes (and ability to re-export them);&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Update again: the &lt;strong&gt;best slicers&lt;/strong&gt;, it seems, based on my research, are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Cura&lt;/strong&gt; (FOSS and professionally supported),&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;PrusaSlicer&lt;/strong&gt; (FOSS, forked from Slic3r, and also professionally supported now).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Articles to look at:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/search?q=slic3r%20vs%20cura&amp;amp;oq=slic3r%20vs%20cura&amp;amp;aqs=chrome..69i57j69i65.2775j0j4&amp;amp;sourceid=chrome&amp;amp;ie=UTF-8&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Google search for &amp;quot;slic3r vs cura&amp;quot;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Slic3r vs Cura (Cura wins; Slic3r lags due to no full-time company-sponsored development): &lt;a href=&quot;https://all3dp.com/2/slic3r-vs-cura-3d-printer-slicer-software-shootout/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://all3dp.com/2/slic3r-vs-cura-3d-printer-slicer-software-shootout/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/search?q=prusaslicer%20vs%20cura&amp;amp;oq=prusaslicer%20vs%20cura&amp;amp;aqs=chrome..69i57.10468j0j4&amp;amp;sourceid=chrome&amp;amp;ie=UTF-8&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Google search for &amp;quot;prusaslicer vs cura&amp;quot;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;PrusaSlicer vs Cura (Cura wins, but just barely, since both are professionally supported with full-time developers): &lt;a href=&quot;https://all3dp.com/2/prusaslicer-vs-cura-differences/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://all3dp.com/2/prusaslicer-vs-cura-differences/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[update END]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that I have printed many ToyBox-designed models perfectly with this printer over the last 24 hrs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have also split the model (to cut the last few cm off the end and shorten it) using this technique here in TinkerCad, then exported the part as a shorter part so I could print on the smaller bed of the ToyBox printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/1SwSqROgLpY?start=0&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is what the &amp;quot;key&amp;quot; is supposed to look like:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hTkbn.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;3D rendering of 'key'&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hTkbn.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;3D rendering of 'key'&quot; title=&quot;3D rendering of 'key'&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And here is how it comes out instead. Notice the misaligned teeth and layers about halfway through. Once I saw it was botched, I stopped the print early.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9BQTr.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Side view of 3D printed 'key'&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9BQTr.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Side view of 3D printed 'key'&quot; title=&quot;Side view of 3D printed 'key'&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1gm0T.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Top view of 3D printed 'key'&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1gm0T.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Top view of 3D printed 'key'&quot; title=&quot;Top view of 3D printed 'key'&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GqYyf.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Angled view of 3D printed 'key'&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GqYyf.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Angled view of 3D printed 'key'&quot; title=&quot;Angled view of 3D printed 'key'&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RE9sB.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Back view of 3D printed 'key'&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RE9sB.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Back view of 3D printed 'key'&quot; title=&quot;Back view of 3D printed 'key'&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;How can I make it print properly and/or how can I fix the .stl file?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Notes:&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;My operating system is Linux Ubuntu 20.04&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I have Windows 10 running in the VirtualBox virtual machine in case I need to run Fusion 360 or something in Windows&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I tried installing Meshmixer inside Windows 10 and it won't open. I had read online it can be used to fix .stl files, so I was going to look into that.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yfPSh.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Screenshot of Meshmixer Error Report dialog box&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yfPSh.png&quot; alt=&quot;Screenshot of Meshmixer Error Report dialog box&quot; title=&quot;Screenshot of Meshmixer Error Report dialog box&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Related:&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;my comment on &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4551901/comments#comment-6238246&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Thingiverse&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;my help request on &lt;a href=&quot;https://maketoys.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/community/posts/4411413024916-Cannot-split-part-in-editor-Something-went-wrong-please-try-again-&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Toybox&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Another person seeking help for this: &lt;a href=&quot;https://tinkercad.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/community/posts/360038762593-Non-Manifold-Model&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;tinkercad.zendesk.com: Non-Manifold Model&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="32117" LastEditorUserId="32117" LastEditDate="2022-02-21T05:04:41.340" LastActivityDate="2023-03-25T08:13:39.530" Title="Non-Manifold .stl file won't print properly on my ToyBox 3D printer" Tags="|print-quality|toybox|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18469" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-11-28T00:44:29.500" Score="3" ViewCount="5744" Body="&lt;p&gt;I need to lube the lead screw for my 3D printer. I plan on using &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B00BCVXUR6&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; grease. I want to know if this will work. There are several other ones like silicone grease, lithium grease, and synthetic grease with PTFE. I am super confused with the pros and cons of each.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Details:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I have a metal lead screw and a metal(brass I believe) nut.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I am using a Lotmaxx SC-10 printer(similar to Ender 3)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I need it to repel dust.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think it was dry, to begin with. At least I have never greased it before. If I touch it, I feel something on it, but it is super thin and I can barely feel it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21856" LastEditorUserId="12956" LastEditDate="2021-11-29T22:12:08.593" LastActivityDate="2021-11-29T22:12:08.593" Title="Appropriate Grease for Z-Axis Lead Screws" Tags="|creality-ender-3|maintenance|cleaning|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18471" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18468" CreationDate="2021-11-28T10:36:56.550" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have printed at least 5 of them (Cura Slicer, Creality CR10s) and there have been no problems. So I can't understand your problems. I would suggest to use another slicer (Cura). I have now repaired the file with Meshmixer and added it (copter_key-175_meshmixer-repair.stl). Maybe this solves your problem.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4551901&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4551901&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="32126" LastActivityDate="2021-11-28T10:36:56.550" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18472" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16279" CreationDate="2021-11-28T19:59:57.963" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had the exact same issue as you and had done all the fixes you mentioned. The only thing that solved it for me was to make sure the model in the slicing software was flat to the &amp;quot;bed&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I use Cura and it has a &amp;quot;flat the bed&amp;quot; option which I only discovered due to a model that was slightly off which caused the top and bottom layer to half.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="32131" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-11-28T21:09:20.593" LastActivityDate="2021-11-28T21:09:20.593" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18473" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-11-28T21:11:06.060" Score="1" ViewCount="132" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am having the frustrating problem where my extruder motor starts skipping steps and stops extruding simply because my filament is wound too tightly. There are some parts of my filament that are so tightly wound that even I have to put some effort to pull it apart. I buy the Inland PLA+ filaments and consistently have this problem with all colors and types. I just threw away a 5-hour large print when it was at 94 %! I am thinking of using a large 20 kg/cm servo to pull our filament before going into the printer to make sure this doesn't happen. I want to know if that is a plausible solution or if I should start buying filament from a different company.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21856" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-11-28T23:33:07.010" LastActivityDate="2021-12-01T05:26:24.097" Title="Filament Spool Stalls Extruder Motor Destroying Print" Tags="|extrusion|motor|filament-choice|filament-jam|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18474" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18463" CreationDate="2021-11-29T01:59:36.510" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Neptune 2 appears to use the Bowden extruder. Typical settings for Bowden are 4-8 mm retraction distance, 20 mm/s to 45 mm/s retraction speed. Your setting seems like a low retraction distance, it might not be fully retracting, and blobbing at the start of a layer could be from that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could also mess with the ‘retract on layer change’ setting if you think it is dwelling at the end of a layer and some extra plastic oozes out as it does the Z move to move to the next layer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check there isn’t a setting to have extra extrusion after retraction, here you have too much extrusion at the seam.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Side note but you can get rid of the elephant's foot on the first layer by entering a negative value in the setting “Initial layer horizontal expansion”. You want to squish it as you did, but this setting makes it so the edges don’t bulge out further than the rest of the model.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27077" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-11-29T03:06:29.797" LastActivityDate="2021-11-29T03:06:29.797" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18476" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-11-29T18:50:53.683" Score="3" ViewCount="2561" Body="&lt;p&gt;Forgive this long-winded post, but I thought it would be helpful to include the back story leading up to a very scary situation on my Ender 3.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was printing a job and everything started out fine just like it normally does. I'm not sure if it is related, but partway through the job, there was a power dip severe enough to trip the alarm on the UPS my computer is attached to. It didn't seem to affect the job on the printer though. (the printer is not on a UPS)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A little while later I noticed the extruder clicking like there was a jam, and the print had started severely under extruding. The hot end temp was showing around 209 °C, which is about what it was supposed to be, so I figured the nozzle was getting old and had probably gotten something stuck in it. I canceled the job, did a cold pull, then went ahead and replaced the nozzle and restarted the job.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The second run started off looking ok, but the clicking and under extruding soon came back. I stopped the job and was standing there next to the printer trying to figure out what was going on when I noticed it reboot itself. Octoprint showed a message (I can't recall the exact wording) of something to the effect of &amp;quot;your printer reset and the job is probably failed&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Weird. It's never done that before. I hadn't restarted since the power dip, so I thought maybe it was just in a bad state and physically powered everything down to start fresh. But as soon as it powered back up, the heater went active and the hot end started warming up. The status display said the temp was set at 0 °C, but the &amp;quot;current temp&amp;quot; reading was rising. I quickly went into the menus to select &amp;quot;cool down&amp;quot; and couldn't find it. There was no cool-down option on the menu!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By this time the hot end was up to around 270 °C and starting to smoke, so I shut the whole thing down again. I let it sit for a little while and powered up again. Immediately upon receiving power, the heater went active and started heating up again! I'm pretty sure had I not been standing there it would have eventually caught fire and possibly burned down my house!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the original Creality board, but I did flash it with Marlin U1.R2.7 maybe a year ago. It has been completely stable since. Thermal runaway protection is enabled (and tested), but I don't think it would have done anything in this scenario since the printer thinks the heater is off (hence the missing cooldown option). Even if it did detect an issue, I'm not sure it would have been able to do anything since it seems to be permanently shorted &amp;quot;on&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has anyone heard of something like this before? Any idea what might have caused it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I opened the case and inspected the board for signs of something shorting out or a smoked component, but everything appears normal. I disconnected the heater so I could power up and everything seems to work other than the heater terminals always having power.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously, my trust in this machine has been severely diminished. I already ordered an SKR Mini E3 V2 to replace the Creality board since I had been thinking of upgrading anyway. But I would really like to know what happened so I can assess the probability of it happening again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ideally, I would also like to figure out some way of protecting against this happening again in the future and causing a fire when I might not be standing next to the printer next time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My first thought is some sort of thermal fuse (like the ones in hairdryers) in line with the heater that would &amp;quot;blow&amp;quot; if it gets past a certain temperature. A typical consumer printer should never have a reason to get above 260-270 °C, so it seems appropriate to kill the circuit if it goes beyond that regardless of what the board is telling it to do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has anyone tried retrofitting something like that? Are you aware of any printers on the market that include such a feature?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any suggestions on how to troubleshoot the board to figure out what happened?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12559" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-11-29T21:30:13.400" LastActivityDate="2023-09-16T15:18:16.813" Title="Ender 3 hot end heater &quot;stuck on&quot;" Tags="|creality-ender-3|hotend|safety|temperature|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18477" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18469" CreationDate="2021-11-29T20:33:15.007" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Personally I put a drop of light machine oil on the lead screw just above the Y gantry between prints, while the head is down.  When it prints, the lead screw raises the gantry and the threads spread the oil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I was going to do a really tall print, I'd consider adding a little oil higher up the lead screw too where it rarely goes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A Y axis lead screw is a low speed, low pressure and low temperature application, so anything &amp;quot;slippery&amp;quot; will do, but the dust repelling attribute is important.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sewing Machine oil, or 3-in-1 oil would be ideal, as would a white lithium grease.  You don't want a petroleum grease like in car wheel bearings because it attracts dust and is viscous/heavy, requiring more force to move around.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zT5lB.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zT5lB.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Singer brand sewing machine oil&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since your existing lead screw is &amp;quot;dry&amp;quot; a wipe with a clean rag should be enough to remove what was there.  I would not use degreaser or solvent, and I would also avoid anything that is in a spray can/aerosol because you want to control where it goes, and avoid overspray.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your nominated du pont lube looks fine too, though out of stock and it seems expensive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12956" LastActivityDate="2021-11-29T20:33:15.007" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18478" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18476" CreationDate="2021-11-29T22:05:11.037" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;My understanding is that the hot end heats until the thermistor signals to the board that it is near/at temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On an Ender V2 with the Meanwell power supply, the unit has thermal runaway protection so if the thermistor fails the board will shut down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In your case, the failed thermistor never alerts by changing resistance, the board will keep heating the block.  So I think you need to pull the thermistor and test its resistance as the temperature changes.  Connect it to a multimeter with the Resistance setting, then heat it with a hairdryer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another possibility is if a failed print has clogged the nozzle area, and the resulting blob of plastic has broken a wire to the thermister.  This might be repairable by soldering.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thermistors are available as replacement items too, may pay to simply get one along with a spare belt and nozzles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12956" LastActivityDate="2021-11-29T22:05:11.037" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18479" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18481" CreationDate="2021-11-29T22:19:47.293" Score="2" ViewCount="170" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 3D printer and I want to 3D print with metal infused PLA filament. It seems that this filament does not print that well (it won't melt to the right consistency). I referred to my manual and it does not talk about plastic or metal filaments. Is using metal causing the problem or is it something else.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The printer I have is a JGMAKER Magic 3D Printer DIY Kit with Filament Run Out Detection Sensor and Resume Print Metal Base 3D Printers for Hobbyist Education.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am printing &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5129377&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;these Christmas balls &lt;/a&gt; in different colors for the holidays.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The metal filament is Silk Copper 3D Printer Filament PLA (1.75 mm) Shine Silky Shiny Copper Like PLA CC3D ZHUOPU&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31762" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2022-01-12T07:20:56.357" LastActivityDate="2022-01-12T07:20:56.357" Title="Printing metal infused PLA does not work well" Tags="|pla|filament|filled-pla|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18480" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18476" CreationDate="2021-11-29T22:42:13.367" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your onboard MOSFET has failed, you need to replace the component, yet better the board. It seems the MOSFET isn’t reacting to the signal from the microprocessor, instead it is “always on”.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that a MOSFET usually fails short, but can fail open in certain circumstances. See &lt;a href=&quot;https://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/27124/do-mosfets-usually-burn-open-or-closed&quot;&gt;Do MOSFETs usually burn open or closed?&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-11-30T00:04:17.797" LastActivityDate="2021-11-30T00:04:17.797" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18481" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18479" CreationDate="2021-11-29T22:59:38.427" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is is PLA, and if you can print regular PLA then this metalised one should print too.  However if its a different brand then you may need to increase the hotend temperature in small steps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd suggest you load the filament, and then turn on the heaters to bring it all up to temp.  Then use the extruder feedingn knob to force some filament into the hotend.  It should come out like hot cheese, and if not then increase the hotend temp till it does.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In your slicer, it should be possible to set up a profile for this material with settings it likes, to ease future printing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your comment say it drips, which suggests the hotend temp is too HIGH and the plastic is liquifying.  Start at 140 degrees C and then work up from there, not down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12956" LastActivityDate="2021-11-29T22:59:38.427" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18482" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18484" CreationDate="2021-11-29T23:01:16.873" Score="1" ViewCount="249" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is it possible to color a 3D printed object during 3D printing? I am trying to achieve an &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ombr%C3%A9&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;em&gt;ombré&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/a&gt; of many colors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried to stop the 3D printing at individual stages and it looks like blocks. Is there a way to achieve a near perfect ombré or is it not possible yet?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The thing I am printing is &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5129377&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Spiral Christmas Balls&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am trying to achieve something like this effect:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HoUlL.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Color gradient or shading effect&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HoUlL.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Color gradient or shading effect&quot; title=&quot;Color gradient or shading effect&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31762" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2021-11-30T07:59:47.387" LastActivityDate="2021-11-30T07:59:47.387" Title="How to achieve ombré (or shading) effects?" Tags="|color|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18483" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18468" CreationDate="2021-11-30T00:17:27.613" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Non-manifold objects are only accidentally solid, as sometimes it becomes unclear what is the inside and what is the outside.  Some slicers attempt to fix this and do a good job of guessing how to correct it.  Also, some non-manifold errors are easier to fix than others.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your slicer is complaining about a part file being non-manifold or you suspect that this is causing a problem, you should bring it into a surface mesh editor like meshlab or blender and try to fix it with the manifold test and repair tools in either of these programs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Typical ways an STL file could be non-manifold include:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;cracks between faces caused by round off error&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;missing faces&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;flipped faces&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;interior faces&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;faces that intersect somewhere other than an edge&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28397" LastActivityDate="2021-11-30T00:17:27.613" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18484" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18482" CreationDate="2021-11-30T00:50:07.797" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The ability to shade 3D printed objects is dependent on the printer, the plastic in use, and available dye.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Several vendors offer filament with a gradient or rainbow-colored patterns, so that printed objects will vary in color over their volume.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Several 3D printers give the option of changing plastics during printing which would allow this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A few 3D printers allow injecting dye into the plastic during the printing process, allowing full 3d coloring of the final part.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can find a natural colored filament and a dye that will dissolve in the filament, it is possible to color the surface of the filament before it goes into the printer, and there is some mixing in the nozzle.  (This works well with natural-colored ABS and Sharpie markers, but I haven't found a combination that works well with PLA.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28397" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-11-30T01:18:04.540" LastActivityDate="2021-11-30T01:18:04.540" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18485" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18405" CreationDate="2021-11-30T02:51:47.797" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WpqHy.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&#xA;It was a worn extruder gear.  I didn’t think it was THAT worn, and when I loosened it a bit and slid it a few mm so that the gear hit the filament in a fresh spot it didn’t improve.  But new stainless steel gears showed up today and when I installed one it worked perfect. Same file/settings/gcode that had failed several times previously when testing other things&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15186" LastActivityDate="2021-11-30T02:51:47.797" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18486" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-11-30T11:40:30.837" Score="3" ViewCount="135" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to recycle all the leftovers from supports and from failed prints in PLA.&#xA;I don't necessarily need to re-extrude new filament from it, so I was wondering if I could maybe perform some molding, but in a safe setup?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which material should be used for the mold?&#xA;How to proceed with the melting of the PLA? In which anti-fouling container shall I melt it to be able to clean it afterward?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here I'm trying to avoid ruining my kitchen pans ;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I guess it must have been tried already, in a nonprofessional setup, right?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28455" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-11-30T14:00:46.887" LastActivityDate="2021-11-30T14:00:46.887" Title="Are there dedicated setups to perform injection molding from PLA filament leftovers?" Tags="|pla|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18487" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18194" CreationDate="2021-11-30T17:57:56.610" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've followed the link in the question and exported the dispenser box and sliced it in Ultimaker Cura 4.12.1 and it will slice just fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8bzp6.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8bzp6.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;From a comment on the answer from the OP I've learned later that the model has been fixed. So the issue was related to the model/STL file, not an issue with Cura.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-12-02T06:15:09.293" LastActivityDate="2021-12-02T06:15:09.293" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18488" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18491" CreationDate="2021-11-30T18:54:03.983" Score="1" ViewCount="789" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've temporarily acquired two different 3D printers that I'm helping someone reassemble.  They are delta style printers that at one point worked great. They were being stored in a large community warehouse type place and somebody that shouldn't have had access pilfered them for parts. Well anyhow I've got them 99 % of the way reassembled. Everything physical is back into the right place and now I just have to wire it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a photo of the board:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8Lo2o.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8Lo2o.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It looks like a &amp;quot;BT7200 V1.8.26 Ramps Plus2&amp;quot; board.  I also recently bought that pictured meanwell power supply.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I googled the board and instead of a wiring diagram or anything just found several similar questions to this like &amp;quot;anyone familiar with?&amp;quot;, &amp;quot;marlin pin details?&amp;quot; etc...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If anyone is either familiar with the board that can point me in the right direction for guides as far as these style/brand of boards? What the heck even are &amp;quot;RAMPS&amp;quot; boards? The only thing I've ever wired up is Creality and BTT mainboards meant for an Ender 3.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15186" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-11-30T22:43:12.157" LastActivityDate="2021-12-01T12:28:51.423" Title="Pin layout of RAMPS Plus2 board?" Tags="|electronics|delta|ramps|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18489" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18210" CreationDate="2021-11-30T19:31:13.570" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have 2 Ender 3 Max printers.  Both suffered elephant's foot after the initial setup.  After trying virtually every suggestion available on the internet I eventually was able to fix them.  Assuming the bed is properly leveled, I feel the most common causes are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Too much tension on the X-axis guide wheels on the right side of the printer&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Too little tension on the X-axis belt (it should be quite tight)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Over extrusion. If your initial layers still look rough (bumpy) along the edges it may be from the excess filament. Even after careful calibration, I had to back off the E-steps by -3 (to 95). The change was dramatic!&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both printers now print the XYZ calibration cube within 0.1 mm (0.003&amp;quot;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="32160" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-11-30T21:53:59.627" LastActivityDate="2021-11-30T21:53:59.627" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18490" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-11-30T22:26:02.613" Score="1" ViewCount="89" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am getting to the point where I want to start post-processing my 3D prints more heavily, i.e. sanding, polishing, painting. I am currently using PLA but will be working with resin and possibly other FDM materials like ABS or PETG. I looking at making a spray booth that can handle both the sanding and airbrushing of models.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What considerations do I need to take into account? What type of filtration will I need? Is a HEPA filter needed or recommended? What other hazards or concerns?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23193" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-11-30T22:43:08.630" LastActivityDate="2021-12-02T22:26:39.663" Title="Considerations for spray booth filtration" Tags="|post-processing|safety|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18491" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18488" CreationDate="2021-11-30T23:04:17.677" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;RAMPS boards are one of the oldest types of boards, in Marlin firmware there is a &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/tree/2.0.x/Marlin/src/pins/ramps&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;whole section available&lt;/a&gt;. Actually, the first were shields that were pressed on on existing Arduino atMega board. Later, the microprocessor was placed onto the shield to become fully integrated boards. Basically, pin layout is very similar for these boards but small differences exist. In Marlin software pin definition you see that the basic layout is read, after which small changes are read over.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The board can be found by e.g. searching for “HE3D Ramp Plus 2 mainboard for the tricolor/K200 DIY 3D printer kit” and appears to be fully compatible with the RAMPS 1.4 pin layout, which is found &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/blob/2.0.x/Marlin/src/pins/ramps/pins_RAMPS.h&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Snippet from the description by the seller:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ramps PLus2 is suitable for all kinds of 3D printers, such as UM, Reprap, Detla and Kossel, CoreXY and HBot, SCARA and so on.&#xA;Four layers of exquisite workmanship, from millions of automatic patch production line.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Functional characteristics:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A) fully compatible with the IO of the Ramps 1.4, the name is very similar to the name, on the market, the Ramps 1.4 less than 20 yuan of Sheild board, in the field of 3D printers have an absolute position, a large number of Marlin and Repetier code can be used free of charge. When configuring a single extrusion, two boards can wear a pair of pants, and nothing can be changed to work. Even the LCD interface, the two 10P Niu seats are all compatible with Ramps1.4 Reprap LCD12864 (note that MKS LCD12864 and LCD2004 are incompatible because they are incompatible with Reprap).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;B) when configuring double extrusion, Ramps1.4 has a drawback, which is to take Fan as a second extruder, so that when double extruding, there is no fan to control, Ramps Plus 2 has been improved, D7 is used as a second extrusion heating, and the fan is still using D9, so that there can be a double extruder heating, and there is also one. A controlled fan (Pin9).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;C) the most important thing is that Ramps PLus2 can be expanded to three extrusion…&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bL3hp.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bL3hp.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-12-01T12:28:51.423" LastActivityDate="2021-12-01T12:28:51.423" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18492" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18473" CreationDate="2021-12-01T05:26:24.097" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A guy at work had this - he got many cheap rolls of PLA.  They had been stored hot and were subtly deformed, each flake slightly sticking to the adjacent ones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;His fix was first to unspool &amp;quot;enough&amp;quot; filament for the job, but that was not reliable for longer prints.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The proper fix was to wind the entire roll onto a spare roll and then fit that to the printer.  (And to stop buying suspiciously cheap filament)   He make a mandrel for the center of the &amp;quot;reel&amp;quot; and simply wound the filament on with a battery-powered hand drill.  The old roll was on the machine until it was emptied, then swapped over.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for your 94% job, it is possible to slice the top 6% of your part, and reprint that.  Some careful filing and superglue can give you a useable part, although the seam is never going to be invisible.  That may not matter depending on your use case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12956" LastActivityDate="2021-12-01T05:26:24.097" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18493" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-12-01T16:06:03.323" Score="4" ViewCount="3544" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to make an anime-style figurine in Blender with long strands of wavy hair coming down from pigtails, similar to sailor moon, but more so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They are going to be extremely challenging to print in place as they will be very thin and difficult to support.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would it be possible simply to print long flat strips of PLA straight onto my bed 5 mm wide, 200 mm long, and a couple of mm thick, and then to heat them up after printing with a heat gun or some other means, and reshape them to make them wavy, then attach them to my model with glue before painting?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I haven't started on the model yet so I have no pictures to provide.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="29097" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-12-01T18:25:17.680" LastActivityDate="2021-12-05T12:23:30.117" Title="Can PLA be reshaped after printing if it is heated?" Tags="|3d-models|material|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18494" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18493" CreationDate="2021-12-01T18:06:54.533" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, printing a flat strand structure and then shaping it using heat to form hair is something people already do, for example with the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2007221&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Hairy Lion model&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastEditorUserId="26" LastEditDate="2021-12-02T18:46:43.953" LastActivityDate="2021-12-02T18:46:43.953" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18495" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18493" CreationDate="2021-12-01T20:15:08.173" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;For extrusion printing you may want to add the hair with a 3d printing pen rather than trying to shape the print with heat.  The print will tend to stick to anything that touches it when hot enough to reshape it.  I've tried to smooth surfaces this way (heating the completed print) and it only makes them worse.  Otherwise, you can try using supports as Paul point out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15075" LastActivityDate="2021-12-01T20:15:08.173" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18498" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18490" CreationDate="2021-12-02T13:58:32.680" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are many factors that play in this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example if your room has proper air flow. Next to window. What is the season because having the window open during winter can cause your 3d printer to malfunction. You should look at this chart to get a overall view of what to get.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I recommend HEPA that blocks up to 99.97 because it can block a lot more and because it can be easily bought. Also I recommend MERV 11 filters because they are widely available and can block many 3d printing debris which you don't want to inhale.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hG6Th.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Particle size chart&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hG6Th.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Particle size chart&quot; title=&quot;Particle size chart&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.sentryair.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2016/07/filter-comparisonchart.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.sentryair.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2016/07/filter-comparisonchart.jpg&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31762" LastEditorUserId="31762" LastEditDate="2021-12-02T22:26:39.663" LastActivityDate="2021-12-02T22:26:39.663" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18499" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18442" CreationDate="2021-12-02T19:42:52.760" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;For this specific application, it may be better to think in terms of a &lt;strong&gt;Lot Number&lt;/strong&gt; for each batch instead of individual serial numbers. This will still let you trace back an item for where it was originally allocated, and greatly simplify your processing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Under this plan, you create the STL file for the basic part and before each printing batch open the base file in even a simple tool like MS 3D Builder or TinkerCAD to emboss your number and the date, re-slice, and print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I actually recommend a &lt;strong&gt;deboss&lt;/strong&gt; here, where the text is recessed into the piece instead of extended outward. In this way it will be more difficult to file away without damaging the part, and again, even the basic modelling tools can quickly customize an STL file in this way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you really need individual serial numbers, design the part with a basic recessed rectangular cutout and print these in bulk. Then print individual plates the exact size (very slightly smaller) than the cutout with the serial number and date debossed, and superglue the plates down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, be aware there's a limit to how small the text can be, based on the size of the nozzle and the capabilities of the printer, and you may find it difficult to print very small text.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12562" LastEditorUserId="12562" LastEditDate="2021-12-03T20:31:55.140" LastActivityDate="2021-12-03T20:31:55.140" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18500" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5066" CreationDate="2021-12-02T20:26:54.370" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Formating SD card fixes issue for me.&#xA;I think that writing many times to the same block of SD card corrupt some block of flash SD card memory.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21932" LastActivityDate="2021-12-02T20:26:54.370" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18501" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18493" CreationDate="2021-12-02T21:07:37.207" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;YES you can reshape printed PLA with heat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a bin for all my brim/cleanup offcuts, stored at the printer.  When it gets a bit full I simply blast it with my hot-air gun normally used for finishing prints.  This shrinks the wispy bits, and thicker parts soften and droop down under their own weight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Downside, I think hair that is printed flat, and then softened with hot air runs the risk of looking like &amp;quot;just got out of a swimming pool&amp;quot; hair instead of anything styled or realistic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Definitely worth a try though!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12956" LastActivityDate="2021-12-02T21:07:37.207" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18503" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16810" CreationDate="2021-12-03T07:53:13.950" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Splitting up the files into separate objects should preferably be done outside a slicer, there are tools for that. Meshmixer, Blender, any CAD program that imports STL files, etc. will do that. You could upload a single file and let others worry about breaking them apart their selves if their slicer of choice doesn't accept a single file for multi colored printings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2021-12-03T07:53:13.950" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18505" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-12-03T17:50:35.647" Score="1" ViewCount="1117" Body="&lt;p&gt;To help me with bed leveling my Ender 3 v2 (using stock Creality firmware, &lt;a href=&quot;https://secureservercdn.net/192.169.223.13/i6h.45f.myftpupload.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/10/Ender-3-V2-V1.0.2-Source-code.rar&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;V1.0.2&lt;/a&gt;), I'm trying to write a G-code that will position the nozzle above each spring in sequence twice, after heating the bed. After each position, I want the printer to wait for me until I have leveled that position. I want to click the knob to continue to the next position. Also, it wouldn't hurt if I could show some instructions on the display.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is my first G-code attempt, and I don't understand how to make the printer wait for a click, and how to show instructions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have tried for Wait for click: &lt;code&gt;M0&lt;/code&gt;, &lt;code&gt;M71&lt;/code&gt;, &lt;code&gt;M108&lt;/code&gt; and &lt;code&gt;M291&lt;/code&gt;.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;I have tried for showing instructions: &lt;code&gt;M0&lt;/code&gt;, &lt;code&gt;M117&lt;/code&gt; and &lt;code&gt;M291&lt;/code&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All fail. The printer just goes from one position to the next without waiting, until the entire program is completed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is my last attempt:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;M140 S60 ; Set bed temperature&#xA;M105 ; Report temperatures&#xA;M190 S60 ; Wait for bed temperature&#xA;G28 ; Home all axes&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;M117 Going to bottom left. Please wait.&#xA;G0 Z2.0 F3000 ; Move Z Axis up little to prevent scratching of Heat Bed&#xA;G0 F6000 X30.000 Y30.000 Z2.0 ; Bottom left&#xA;G0 Z0.0 F3000 ; Move Z Axis down for leveling&#xA;M71 Please level and click to continue; Show message and wait for continue button&#xA;&#xA;M117 Going to top left. Please wait.&#xA;G0 Z2.0 F3000 ; Move Z Axis up little to prevent scratching of Heat Bed&#xA;G0 F6000 X30.000 Y190.000 Z2.0 ; Top left&#xA;G0 Z0.0 F3000 ; Move Z Axis down for leveling&#xA;M71 Please level and click to continue ; Show message and wait for continue button&#xA;&#xA;M117 Going to top right. Please wait.&#xA;G0 Z2.0 F3000 ; Move Z Axis up little to prevent scratching of Heat Bed&#xA;G0 F6000 X190.000 Y190.000 Z2.0 ; Top right&#xA;G0 Z0.0 F3000 ; Move Z Axis down for leveling&#xA;M71 Please level and click to continue ; Show message and wait for continue button&#xA;&#xA;M117 Going to bottom rigth. Please wait.&#xA;G0 Z2.0 F3000 ; Move Z Axis up little to prevent scratching of Heat Bed&#xA;G0 F6000 X190.000 Y30.000 Z2.0 ; Bottom right&#xA;G0 Z0.0 F3000 ; Move Z Axis down for leveling&#xA;M71 Please level and click to continue ; Show message and wait for continue button&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;M117 Going to bottom left. Please wait.&#xA;G0 Z2.0 F3000 ; Move Z Axis up little to prevent scratching of Heat Bed&#xA;G0 F6000 X30.000 Y30.000 Z2.0 ; Bottom left&#xA;G0 Z0.0 F3000 ; Move Z Axis down for leveling&#xA;M71 Please level and click to continue ; Show message and wait for continue button&#xA;&#xA;M117 Going to top right. Please wait.&#xA;G0 Z2.0 F3000 ; Move Z Axis up little to prevent scratching of Heat Bed&#xA;G0 F6000 X190.000 Y190.000 Z2.0 ; Top right&#xA;G0 Z0.0 F3000 ; Move Z Axis down for leveling&#xA;M71 Please level and click to continue ; Show message and wait for continue button&#xA;&#xA;M117 Going to bottom rigth. Please wait.&#xA;G0 Z2.0 F3000 ; Move Z Axis up little to prevent scratching of Heat Bed&#xA;G0 F6000 X190.000 Y30.000 Z2.0 ; Bottom right&#xA;G0 Z0.0 F3000 ; Move Z Axis down for leveling&#xA;M71 Please level and click to continue ; Show message and wait for continue button&#xA;&#xA;M117 Going to top left. Please wait.&#xA;G0 Z2.0 F3000 ; Move Z Axis up little to prevent scratching of Heat Bed&#xA;G0 F6000 X30.000 Y190.000 Z2.0 ; Top left&#xA;G0 Z0.0 F3000 ; Move Z Axis down for leveling&#xA;M71 Please level and click to continue ; Show message and wait for continue button&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;M117 Going to center. Please wait.&#xA;G0 Z2.0 F3000 ; Move Z Axis up little to prevent scratching of Heat Bed&#xA;G0 F6000 X110.000 Y110.000 Z2.0 ; Center&#xA;G0 Z0.0 F3000 ; Move Z Axis down for checking&#xA;M71 Please level and click to end. Restart if not satisfied ; Show message&#xA;&#xA;M140 S0 ; Set bed temperature&#xA;G0 Z2.0 F3000 ; Move Z Axis up little to prevent scratching of Heat Bed&#xA;G0 F6000 X110.000 Y110.000 Z2.0 ; Home&#xA;G28 ; Home all axes&#xA;G0 Z2.0 F3000 ; Move Z Axis up little to prevent scratching of Heat Bed&#xA;M84 X Y E Z ;Disable all steppers  &#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="32198" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-12-05T15:15:33.527" LastActivityDate="2022-05-04T16:05:55.630" Title="Wait for click to continue" Tags="|creality-ender-3|g-code|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18506" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18505" CreationDate="2021-12-03T19:42:53.817" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a partial answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks to &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.chepclub.com/bed-level.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Chep&lt;/a&gt;, who created a similar file, I found that there exists a less well documented &lt;code&gt;M25&lt;/code&gt; command (Pause SD print). This seems to be the command to call with 32-bit boards in an Ender 3, instead of the &lt;code&gt;M0&lt;/code&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also I found out that this &lt;code&gt;M25&lt;/code&gt; works a bit buggy. It only pauses after the movement command AFTER it is executed. So you need to execute the command before moving to the place where you want to pause. This bug still persists even on Chep's file.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And it bugs out the user interface of the Ender. Because the screen seems not to refresh, showing &amp;quot;pause&amp;quot; button when already paused. And overlapping a &amp;quot;pause&amp;quot; button over the ending &amp;quot;confirm&amp;quot; button while the program is already over.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I still haven't found out how to print instructions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="32198" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-12-03T20:23:00.923" LastActivityDate="2021-12-03T20:23:00.923" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18508" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-12-04T01:04:08.937" Score="5" ViewCount="110" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a set of blind clips that I want to be able to print out. They no longer produce them and I cannot find a possible place to buy them. I have minimal experience in CAD and am wondering, I have an iPhone with a LiDAR sensor. Is it feasible to be able to make a scan, turn it into a model and print it? What would be the best course of action? I will take any recommendations or advice!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a Flashforge Adventurer 3 with PLA and ABS available!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/P3Ibl.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Blind clip image&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/P3Ibl.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Blind clip image&quot; title=&quot;Blind clip image&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="32201" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-12-04T03:08:07.217" LastActivityDate="2021-12-05T05:28:50.717" Title="I have blind clips that are no longer being produced. I want to be able to 3D print them. What would be the best way to make a copy?" Tags="|abs|flashforge-adventurer-3|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18509" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15457" CreationDate="2021-12-04T17:55:15.667" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Apparently now the answer is yes. A company called MASSIVit has a system they call GDP - gel dispensing printing - that's essentially what I asked about, on an extremely large scale. 3D Printing Nerd has &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SSE2q_ejjKc&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;a video&lt;/a&gt; from their booth at Formnext 2021 in Frankfurt, Germany.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2021-12-04T17:55:15.667" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18511" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18442" CreationDate="2021-12-04T20:56:59.503" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Have you considered using a barcode rather than text. It would be easier to print clearly as there are no curves, and would be machine readable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="29097" LastActivityDate="2021-12-04T20:56:59.503" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18512" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18513" CreationDate="2021-12-04T23:22:05.587" Score="2" ViewCount="99" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am looking to buy an Ender-3 Pro, but the place I'm looking to buy from has this picture:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RY2ds.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Confusing 3D printer publicity photo&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RY2ds.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Confusing 3D printer publicity photo&quot; title=&quot;Confusing 3D printer publicity photo&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is, what is meant by &amp;quot;Junior&amp;quot; in the name?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm just wondering if this means it's an alternative kind of version for kids or something, or if it's just the name of that type of 3D Printer (e.g. in the way you might have a Junior Hacksaw or something)? I.e. is this the normal Ender V3 Pro?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="32210" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2021-12-05T02:22:51.843" LastActivityDate="2021-12-20T14:42:29.983" Title="What is meant by &quot;Junior 3D printer&quot;?" Tags="|creality-ender-3|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18513" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18512" CreationDate="2021-12-05T02:21:28.867" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is no such thing as a &lt;em&gt;Junior&lt;/em&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;, you can see the official Creality range of FDM printers on the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.creality.com/product/fdm-3d-printer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;FDM 3D PRINTER&lt;/a&gt; page, on their web site.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Upon a cursory comparison of the photo it is one of these:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ender-3 Max 3D Printer&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ender-3 Pro 3D Printer&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ender-3 3D Printer&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, the first one can be discounted as the spool holder is missing. So this leaves the last two.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, the biggest clue is in the photo itself, as the name is written in the last line: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.creality.com/goods-detail/ender-3-pro-3d-printer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Ender-3 Pro&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Nevertheless, given the seller's random &amp;quot;junior&amp;quot; labelling, it is not entirely guaranteed that the printer is, in fact, a Pro.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unless they are super cheap or a renowned seller, then it is probably best to avoid purchasing anything from them. Or contact the seller to see if they would clarify their misleading advert.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; The term &lt;em&gt;junior&lt;/em&gt; could be an indication of the base level entry of the printer, or a reference to its build size, which, while not small and is pretty standard, it is not as large as some of the more pricey Creality models.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4762" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2021-12-20T14:42:29.983" LastActivityDate="2021-12-20T14:42:29.983" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18514" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18508" CreationDate="2021-12-05T05:28:50.717" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is a way to make a 3D model from the original. A lot depends on the original item. The clear clip seems to have been reproduced on Thingiverse (&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4962711&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Valance Clip&lt;/a&gt;) with the procedure with which the user created his model.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are the steps to reproduce the clear clip according to the original user, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/mattfriedman&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;mattfriedman&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use a black marker or paint to color the profile of the item&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Place the item on a scanner or take a top-down photo (with a white background) of the item&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Import the image or photo into Adobe Photoshop, GIMP, or image manipulation software of your choice&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Remove any stray marks and clean up the edges of the item's profile as best as possible&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Import the image into Adobe Illustrator or Inkscape&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use the &amp;quot;Image Trace&amp;quot; or &amp;quot;Trace Bitmap&amp;quot; menu item from your particular software to vectorize the image into an SVG (you may need to do additional path and point cleanup)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Import the 2D SVG into Tinkercad, Fusion 360, or other modeling software.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Extrude to the desired width/depth.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You now have a 3D model of a real-world object without scanning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23193" LastActivityDate="2021-12-05T05:28:50.717" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18515" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18512" CreationDate="2021-12-05T08:01:58.257" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;That is an Ender 3, with the vertical PSU, the older interface, and many tweaks like the drawer and filament loading knob isn't present.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Consider the Ender 3 V2 instead, which is an iteration on the same basic design and is newer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally I found it cheaper to buy the V2 direct from Creality's website than to buy the older model from a local or other online seller, and it had free freight from China, and arrived in about 3 weeks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12956" LastActivityDate="2021-12-05T08:01:58.257" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18517" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-12-05T11:38:25.940" Score="1" ViewCount="1471" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm having issues with my Ender 3 V2 after installing the BLTouch sensor and flashing the firmware. I downloaded the precompiled firmware from Creality's &lt;a href=&quot;https://forums.creality3dofficial.com/download/ender-series/ender-3-v2/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;site&lt;/a&gt; for the 4.2.2 board. The thing is, everything works fine, but the X-axis seems to be set up too wide (it lets me go up to 245 mm), which results in the head going too far to the right and hitting the extrusion profile - it makes a creaking sound and jumps a few steps. When going from this point back to X coordinate 0, the same happens on the other side. If it was just about me, I would be careful and would not go manually to the edge, but the auto-leveling process measures the board near outer edges and thus goes into this collision (and then it &amp;quot;confuses&amp;quot; the X coordinate).&#xA;I tried measuring the steps/mm, but everything seems fine here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What am I doing wrong? How come the official firmware doesn't work properly? Can I damage the stepper motor by such collisions? If not, I guess at least the carriage belt won't like it in the long run.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31523" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-12-05T14:05:16.660" LastActivityDate="2022-01-05T16:03:55.337" Title="Ender 3 v2 BLTouch pushing too far in X axis" Tags="|creality-ender-3|firmware|bltouch|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18518" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18493" CreationDate="2021-12-05T12:23:30.117" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes you can reshape a print with heat. Do note that PLA filament starts to melt at about 60 degrees. There are actually models designed to be printed and then shaped with a hairdryer/heat gun. You can also smooth out prints but that is very tricky and I don't recommend it. If you want to smooth a print you are better off printing ABS and using acetone vapour.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a print that has reshaping hair:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2007221&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2007221&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="32202" LastActivityDate="2021-12-05T12:23:30.117" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18519" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-12-05T20:07:55.623" Score="3" ViewCount="4118" Body="&lt;p&gt;My new Ender 5 Plus' Bowden tube keeps popping out of its socket on the extruder mid-print, I've tried several times and it keeps doing it even though it's locked into place securely at the start every time. Is this a known issue? And how do I resolve it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I just got it so I doubt it's the coupler, I replaced it with a spare as my first solution, I did notice that it got almost stringy plastic around it whenever it gets popped out.... could that be indicative of what the problem is?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31152" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-12-06T11:13:23.157" LastActivityDate="2021-12-12T16:57:14.780" Title="Ender 5 Plus Bowden tube keeps popping out" Tags="|creality-ender-5|bowden|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18520" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18519" CreationDate="2021-12-05T21:05:34.243" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The coupler for the Bowden tube is probably worn out or the tube end has been scraped so that the coupler can't grab it or you have left out the clamp on the coupler.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The coupler has a sleeve that when pressed down releases the Bowden tube.  There is a C-shaped clip that should go between the top lip of the sleeve and the body of the coupler that prevents the sleeve from moving and should help hold the tube more firmly.  Make sure this is installed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the tube outside is visibly worn with scrape marks (this is rare), it might help to cut a few cm off the end so that a fresh section is gripped by the coupler.  Be sure to cut the end flush so that there is no gap between the heat break and the Bowden tube or you will have other problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternately (and this is more likely), the coupler itself is worn out, possibly with bent or broken-off teeth.  If this is the case, you will need to replace the coupler.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28397" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-12-05T21:23:16.300" LastActivityDate="2021-12-05T21:23:16.300" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18521" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18517" CreationDate="2021-12-06T12:02:29.113" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;For anyone interested: Somewhere (I think it was Reddit) I found that the mainboard has trouble with long filenames. I changed the firmware name from &lt;code&gt;E3V2-BLTouch-3x3-v4.2.2-v2.0.1.bin&lt;/code&gt; to something like &lt;code&gt;fw.bin&lt;/code&gt;, flashed again and the issue stopped. WTH.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31523" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2021-12-06T15:32:23.523" LastActivityDate="2021-12-06T15:32:23.523" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18522" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-12-06T15:13:16.000" Score="0" ViewCount="603" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I purchased a Geeetech A10M a while back and have never been able to get it to print right. I own two other Ender 3's and have been printing for about 4 years now. I fix most issues myself but this has stumped me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The printer just seems to print &amp;quot;OK&amp;quot; at the start but then starts under extruding. Stringing is also really bad, but the stock cooling is garbage. I've tried new filament as well as different brands with no prevail. I've changed my slicer settings what feels like a billion times. I am unsure if the unique Y-splitter hot end is causing a problem. I've also never used Titan-style extruders and am unsure if those are a problem. I would appreciate any help you can give me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I use Cura as my slicer. I started with the preset profile already there, and then I edited it as I began having issues. I've tweaked just about everything I can think of in the slicer. I want to like the printer. It's just that it prints like crap right now. This printer is my personal project of sorts so it isn't really bugging me. But the end goal is obviously to get it to print good!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For now the specs of the printer, these will be updated with the values used for the prints from the photos:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Filament diameter: 1.75 mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Nozzle diameter: 0.4 mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Retraction 10 mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Temperatures:&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;End 200 °C&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bed 60 °C&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Speed 60 mm/s&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Infill 20 % Rectangular&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;6 top and bottom layers&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;5 perimeters&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;0.2 mm layer height&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Flow 100 %&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Travel speed 130 mm/s&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fyFWy.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Photo of a printed model with printing issues&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fyFWy.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Photo of a printed model with printing issues&quot; title=&quot;Photo of a printed model with printing issues&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rbjtW.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Another photo of a printed model with printing issues&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rbjtW.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Another photo of a printed model with printing issues&quot; title=&quot;Another photo of a printed model with printing issues&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="32228" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-12-06T22:30:05.960" LastActivityDate="2022-04-07T15:13:45.750" Title="Geeetech A10M extrusion issues" Tags="|troubleshooting|underextrusion|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18523" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-12-06T19:03:49.240" Score="3" ViewCount="281" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I'm working on building a Prusa i3 MK3 clone and all's gone well so far but when I make edits to the firmware and reupload it, the printer doesn't seem to be getting it. Like I changed the software endstops to new values in the code, recompiled it and reuploaded it, but when I use &lt;code&gt;M211&lt;/code&gt; the printer still reports its old endstop values.&#xA;Also, it seems to only be able to home to the minimum, not the maximum (not the biggest deal).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any advice on how to get the printer to recognize its new boundaries/is there a way to just set it with a G-code?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="32229" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-12-06T19:11:04.430" LastActivityDate="2021-12-07T19:18:45.323" Title="Marlin firmware issues" Tags="|marlin|prusa-i3|g-code|firmware|endstop|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18525" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-12-07T07:12:22.843" Score="1" ViewCount="55" Body="&lt;p&gt;At work, I have an HBOT 3D 1.1 printer and I need to be able to pause my prints. I've tried all the usual G-code commands (&lt;code&gt;M0&lt;/code&gt;, &lt;code&gt;M1&lt;/code&gt;, &lt;code&gt;M25&lt;/code&gt;, &lt;code&gt;M226&lt;/code&gt;, &lt;code&gt;M600&lt;/code&gt;) but they don't work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At home I have an Ender 3 and while I don't know much about modifying firmware, with help from a video guide I've managed to enable the advanced pause feature which solved exactly that problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could anyone advise me what steps to take to enable pausing mid-print on HBOT 3D 1.1?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="32028" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2022-05-06T08:19:07.737" LastActivityDate="2022-05-06T08:19:07.737" Title="Enabling Pause feature on HBOT 3D 1.1" Tags="|marlin|firmware|hbot-3d-1.1|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18526" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18523" CreationDate="2021-12-07T11:43:43.227" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Did you load the new values from the firmware you uploaded with &lt;code&gt;M502&lt;/code&gt;? If not, that might be your problem. See &amp;quot;&lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11438/m502-will-reset-all-configurable-settings-to-their-factory-defaults-which-set&quot;&gt;M502 will reset all configurable settings to their &amp;quot;factory defaults&amp;quot;, which settings are those?&lt;/a&gt;&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you upload a firmware, this is done through a so-called binary hex file. In this file, stored in memory of the micro-controller, the complete &amp;quot;program&amp;quot; is stored as configured by your code editor (compiled, hence a binary file). Note that the user of the &amp;quot;program&amp;quot; is allowed to change values of certain parameters&lt;sup&gt;1)&lt;/sup&gt;, the changes are stored in a different part of the memory that is not overwritten when a new firmware is uploaded. You manually have to get the &amp;quot;set&amp;quot; values from your new firmware file to store these into the &amp;quot;working memory&amp;quot;. Please send the &lt;code&gt;M502&lt;/code&gt; and the &lt;code&gt;M500&lt;/code&gt; G-codes to get and store the values from the firmware.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1)&lt;/sup&gt; &lt;em&gt;Do remember the inability to store custom parameters in certain older versions of Marlin in combination with certain printer controller boards (e.g. the SKR line of boards), but, this is fixed in the recent versions, storage e.g. is done on the SD card. For that reason the memory storage above is not called EEPROM but the &amp;quot;working memory&amp;quot;, i.e. is doesn't have to be an EEPROM storage.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-12-07T19:18:45.323" LastActivityDate="2021-12-07T19:18:45.323" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18527" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-12-07T15:20:18.757" Score="2" ViewCount="593" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was printing test cubes to adjust my extrusion ratio, and had ugly walls. I noticed that the pattern on the walls was always the same, and disappeared if I chose 0 % infill (gyroid from PrusaSlicer).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What parameter do I need to change, in order to avoid the marks on the outside?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mlhWX.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mlhWX.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;Top two cubes with no infill. Middle row with extrusion multiplier from 90 to 75 % (!) in decrement of 5, temperature 215 °C. Bottom cube at extrusion 85 %, temperature 190 °C.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is an example of when this can turn out to be a real problem, the inside floor of the part shows on the outer wall:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MXGQ4.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MXGQ4.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was surprised that the extrusion multiplier had so little effect, so I tested 50 % just to see that it had:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PHaqt.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PHaqt.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More info: this was done on a Prusa i3 MK3S+, and sliced in PrusaSlicer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can't seem to find how to show the seam anymore, but I do see something interesting:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0oyC9.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0oyC9.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even without the layer change, there is a hop in the corners that really look like they could be the cause:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kQnkg.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kQnkg.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Changing to random Z seam fixes it in the slicer. I have yet to print it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My retraction parameters (no Filament override):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fMylg.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fMylg.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I performed the Linear Advance calibration from marlinfw, for good measure. Now I got a new value, I'm pretty sure it was a clear 0.05 before, now it's 0.09.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The calibration I made 10 days ago (chose LA K=0.05):&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cgr5X.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cgr5X.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The calibration I made yesterday (chose LA K=0.09):&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ryg4R.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ryg4R.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also tested the next PrusaSlicer release, 2.4.0-beta3. The seam moves quite a bit more from layer to layer, so the issue is not as visible. I'm surprised that LA has so little effect:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7NStb.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7NStb.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Interestingly, slicing with Cura defaults plus coasting (retraction 0.8 mm, 35 mm/s) gives me much smoother walls and not the artifacts above. I'm not saying this isn't luck, and that I don't still have a backlash issue, but this tells me there's something I could do about it in PrusaSlicer.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HeyZ1.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HeyZ1.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20212" LastEditorUserId="20212" LastEditDate="2021-12-11T13:33:46.060" LastActivityDate="2021-12-11T13:33:46.060" Title="Gyroid infill affects outer walls" Tags="|print-quality|infill|prusaslicer|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="15" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18528" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18529" CreationDate="2021-12-07T18:03:27.053" Score="3" ViewCount="319" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm contemplating buying a laser engraver attachment for my Ender 3 Pro.  Either the Creality official one or the Comgrow version.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When scanning the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.comgrow.com/products/20w-laser-engraver-module-kit-for-ender-3-3-pro-3v2?variant=39438266630187&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;respective web pages&lt;/a&gt;/&lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/18289/convert-3d-printer-to-laser-engraver&quot;&gt;answers on here&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hEk3aVARSGc&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;YouTube videos&lt;/a&gt;, it seems like you usually unplug cables for fans and swap them with laser, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;So I guess my question is&lt;/strong&gt;:  if I still wanted to be able to easily print, let's say within 10 mins of engraving something, without opening up my printer's electronics case to swap cables every time... what would be the best approach?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a way to have everything permanently plugged in and the G-code file simply dictates what is done (3D printing vs lasering).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a different board than the default Creality if that changes anything (a BTT E3 RRF Board).  I also have the IDEX expansion board plugged in, that's currently only running a second Z-axis motor (i.e. probably has extra plugs on it).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15186" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-12-07T18:15:30.193" LastActivityDate="2021-12-07T21:10:05.283" Title="Laser engraver on Ender 3 without taking important ports" Tags="|creality-ender-3|laser|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18529" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18528" CreationDate="2021-12-07T21:10:05.283" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You don't need to open the electronics casing, why not cut/split the (print) fan cable so that you can plug it quick without too much delay. The power for the laser could be fed directly from a power supply.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2021-12-07T21:10:05.283" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18531" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18882" CreationDate="2021-12-09T03:36:56.110" Score="3" ViewCount="1018" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been trying to make some small signs, and to highlight the text by changing between black and white filament at a layer just above where the text comes out of the back plate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've used Cura 4.12 and the &amp;quot;change filament&amp;quot; script to make the printer pause at the right layer.  The change and purge process works fine, no issue there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However the second colour adheres poorly to the first.  Doesn't matter if I print Black then White, or White then Black.  Both filaments are the same brand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Should I dab gluestick into the print at the same time as changing colour?  (read on)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is there some way to re-preheat the object and get a better adhesion?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To save the print I've used superglue to stick the letters back on that have fallen off, but is definitely not ideal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's an example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RgUOS.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RgUOS.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The loose letters are held on well enough for printing, but only barely.  They can knock loose at a touch of a finger afterward.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have tried changing filament on the first layer that is not the back board, and one or two layers up the letters.  One print I even changed filament a layer too low, and surprisingly that did not have adhesion problems.  Perhaps it is merely a function of surface contact area ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Gluestick on the exposed surface while changing filament was useless - the whole thing simply didn't stick and the second colour never got any adhesion at all, merely wiping off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for timing, it seems to make little difference if I'm there waiting for the last layer to print, or if I let the printer sit for half an hour before noticing and changing colour.  The bed stays hot at 50 degrees, and the hot end is permitted to cool off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a heating cycle, and then a purge/discharge-into-air that shows the transition between colours, so its not that the filament has lost a prime.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the moment, a much more effective solution is to use a paint marker and colour-in the top layer with a contrasting colour.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12956" LastEditorUserId="12956" LastEditDate="2021-12-11T09:30:02.437" LastActivityDate="2022-05-06T17:45:09.680" Title="What techniques are needed to minimise layer separation after filament change?" Tags="|creality-ender-3|ultimaker-cura|adhesion|change-filament|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18532" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18531" CreationDate="2021-12-09T14:24:14.317" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most of your settings will not change with changing filament, if the new filament is the same material and OEM as the old.  The main settings to check after changing the filament are the initial z-height and planarization of the bed. If the z-height is too high the first few layers may not stick together well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you change filament materials or OEM, change the settings to match the new material.  The layers may have trouble sticking together if the extrusion temperature is too low.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15075" LastActivityDate="2021-12-09T14:24:14.317" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18533" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-12-09T14:34:14.443" Score="2" ViewCount="262" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am having two separate issues. One is specific to this particular model, the other is on all my prints, but more pronounced on 90° vertical walls.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first issue is a localized area of under extrusion only in one area of the print. This issue is specific to this model. The second issue is evenly spaced horizontal bulges that appear approximately every 5mm during the first 30-35 mm of the print. This is a two-piece Christmas tree I designed for my wife and I have been printing both pieces together on the build plate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am printing on a mostly stock Voxelab Aquila with Voxelab Gold 1.75 mm PLA. I have changed the stock extruder to the aluminum extruder after the plastic one cracked, and am running a Satsana style shroud with stock fans. I am using CHEP's Cura 4.11 Ender 3 profile for .2 mm (good) - &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.chepclub.com/cura-profiles.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;CHEP Cura Profiles&lt;/a&gt;, printing at 200 °C and 40 °C bed temp. I have lubed my Z screw with white lithium grease, checked that belts are tight and no screws or physical connection points are loose. I checked to make sure that the eccentric nuts are snug but not binding the gantry. I have calibrated my extruder E-steps and changed the value to 96.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can someone offer me some guidance on where to go from here?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ga1uq.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Photo of a 3D printed two-piece Christmas tree&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ga1uq.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Photo of a 3D printed two-piece Christmas tree&quot; title=&quot;Photo of a 3D printed two-piece Christmas tree&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hOFLf.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Photo of the inside of the top part of Christmas tree&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hOFLf.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Photo of the inside of the top part of Christmas tree&quot; title=&quot;Photo of the inside of the top part of Christmas tree&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/t5nSL.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Photo showing the printing errors inside the top of the Christmas tree&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/t5nSL.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Photo showing the printing errors inside the top of the Christmas tree&quot; title=&quot;Photo showing the printing errors inside the top of the Christmas tree&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BC8q4.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Photo of horizontal bulges on the base of Christmas tree&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BC8q4.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Photo of horizontal bulges on the base of Christmas tree&quot; title=&quot;Photo of horizontal bulges on the base of Christmas tree&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lXNb3.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Photo of ruler measuring the evenly spaced horizontal bulges on the base of Christmas tree&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lXNb3.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Photo of ruler measuring the evenly spaced horizontal bulges on the base of Christmas tree&quot; title=&quot;Photo of ruler measuring the evenly spaced horizontal bulges on the base of Christmas tree&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="32255" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-12-09T18:01:55.467" LastActivityDate="2022-06-10T21:01:55.263" Title="Evenly spaced bulges and one spot of localized underextrusion" Tags="|print-quality|troubleshooting|underextrusion|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18534" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18531" CreationDate="2021-12-09T16:58:43.040" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I never had layer separation when changing filament to a different color. Even with three different colors within the same print. Or five layers of two different layers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both filaments should be made of the same material, for instance PLA. The filaments should be printable with the same settings. A test print should work well with both filaments.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Try a print with a pause and a simulated filament change. Printing with the same filament before and after the pause. You may try different durations of the pause. Is there layer separation even with a very short pause?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="29373" LastEditorUserId="29373" LastEditDate="2021-12-10T09:04:54.777" LastActivityDate="2021-12-10T09:04:54.777" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18535" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18468" CreationDate="2021-12-10T07:10:49.187" Score="3" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Update 24 Mar. 2023: the maximum &lt;em&gt;usable&lt;/em&gt; print volume of the ToyBox 3D printer is approximately &lt;em&gt;74 x 79 x 100 mm (width x length x height)&lt;/em&gt;, &lt;em&gt;and&lt;/em&gt; you must add supports to keep tall objects from tipping over and catching&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1st, you must add supports to keep tall objects from bending over and catching the nozzle, like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5GKP4.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5GKP4.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Notice the side supports. Without them, this ball will not print properly. Between 60% and 80% done, it's so tall that the nozzle will eventually catch on the ball edge, tip it over, and then get jammed against it, causing it to think it hit the edge of the print volume, and forcing the center point to shift several mm in the opposite direction. This results in print sheering and possibly damage to the stepper motors or gears.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2nd, the digital bed size of the ToyBox 3D printer (when you go to load an object to print) is &lt;strong&gt;75 x 80 x 100 mm&lt;/strong&gt; (7.5 x 8.0 x 10.0 cm).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When printing large objects up to 100mm in height, it seems to work fine. So, that limit is ok. But, when printing large objects which are the full width, ex: a 75mmx75mm circle, the object will get destroyed once the max diameter portion of the circle is reached. This is because the hard mechanical stops (screws, and metal edges of the print space) and/or limit switches of the printer will be hit, causing the print head firmware to adjust the center print point by several mm in the opposite direction. The object will then print with misaligned layers from that point forward. Since the center point just jumped several mm, the end point will be hit again on a future pass on the opposite side, causing it to jump again. It will jump like this repeatedly until the print is complete. You end up with shifted layers as shown in the photo below. This is a 75x75x75mm ball, which printed fine until the max diameter center portion was reached, at which point the mechanical edge stops were hit, the center point was (presumably) readjusted by the firmware, and the layers sheered:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ndQW2.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ndQW2.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, when printing, shrink the object 1 or 2 mm (5%, or 3.75mm of 75mm is plenty, and 1%~2%, or 0.75mm~1.5mm of 75mm is probably enough) and be sure to add an outer ring as wide as or just wider than the max diameter of the object. Ex: here is a manually-added outer ring to ensure the print head starts and stays centered at the beginning:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KcRht.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KcRht.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In conclusion, the &lt;strong&gt;maximum &lt;em&gt;usable&lt;/em&gt; print volume&lt;/strong&gt; of the ToyBox 3D printer is approximately &lt;em&gt;74 x 79 x 100 mm&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Back to my original answer:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;ToyBox 3D printer true print dimensions and limit switch problems&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I figured out that the problem is my print area is so small the printer was occasionally fully pressing and triggering the end-point limit switches! This apparently causes it to stop slightly early, shifting the next layer as it prints.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.toyboxuae.com/blogs/news/what-are-toybox-specifications&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;The printer specs&lt;/a&gt; state that it has a print volume of &lt;strong&gt;9 x 8 x 10 cm&lt;/strong&gt;. However, the print design area and viewer at &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.make.toys/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.make.toys/&lt;/a&gt; shows the design volume like this&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zouQc.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Screenshot of ToyBox viewer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zouQc.png&quot; alt=&quot;Screenshot of ToyBox viewer&quot; title=&quot;Screenshot of ToyBox viewer&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the square grid shown on the base plate there is 1 cm per square, except that as you can see, the far left and far-right columns are &amp;lt; 1 square. Therefore, looking at this image, the usable bed area appears to be about &lt;strong&gt;7.25 cm x 8 cm&lt;/strong&gt; (the grid size shown in the images), NOT 8 cm x 9 cm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Furthermore, if you do NOT have the &amp;quot;Skip First Ring&amp;quot; option checked on the &amp;quot;Build&amp;quot; tab in the image below, the printer does a &amp;quot;wipe clean&amp;quot; maneuver in the shape of a spiral, circle, or ring around the object to be printed just before beginning the print. This wipes off any dangling stray print material before beginning the print. If your object fully covers the print bed dimensions, however, that ring will be even wider, causing the printer to hit its limit switches.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(&lt;strong&gt;The model in this image is 10.4 cm long, which is too long, causing my printer to hit its limit switches, skewing the layers while printing.&lt;/strong&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HAZQ7.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Screenshot of ToyBox viewer with the 'Skip First Ring' option highlighted&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HAZQ7.png&quot; alt=&quot;Screenshot of ToyBox viewer with the 'Skip First Ring' option highlighted&quot; title=&quot;Screenshot of ToyBox viewer with the 'Skip First Ring' option highlighted&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, the problem is that my part is too big. WithOUT that &amp;quot;Skip First Ring&amp;quot; box checked, the dimensions are probably further reduced by another 5 mm or so on X and Y dimensions, bringing it down to about &lt;strong&gt;6.75 cm x 7.5 cm&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;em&gt;usable print area.&lt;/em&gt; My part was 10.4 cm long. The Pythagorean Theorem says that &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$A^2 + B^2 = C^2$&lt;/span&gt;, so &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$C = \sqrt(A^2 + B^2)$&lt;/span&gt; = &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$\sqrt(6.75cm^2 + 7.5cm^2)$&lt;/span&gt; = &lt;strong&gt;10.09 cm max&lt;/strong&gt; on the diagonal. &lt;strong&gt;My 10.4 cm long part was too long. The printer hit the limit switches, botching the layers.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Had I checked that box &lt;em&gt;maybe&lt;/em&gt; I could have gotten away with a part closer to &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$\sqrt(7.25^2 + 8^2)$&lt;/span&gt; = &lt;strong&gt;10.8 cm long&lt;/strong&gt;, but that's really pushing the limits of this printer. &lt;strong&gt;In the end, shrinking the part a bit more to be about 10 cm or less was all I needed to do!&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;UPDATE: I've also proven conclusively by designing in &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.TinkerCad.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;www.TinkerCad.com&lt;/a&gt; and printing on the ToyBox that the max allowed print height is exactly &lt;strong&gt;9 cm&lt;/strong&gt;, and it will indeed print properly all the way up to that height.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;I'd still like a flying propeller&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That being said, even though &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4551901&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;the &amp;quot;key&amp;quot; of the model in my question&lt;/a&gt; printed pretty well in the end, the helicopter blade (propeller) printed horribly because the design is flawed and has a bunch of missing material and air gaps around the hub, making the propeller completely unusable!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Instead, I &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1885007&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;switched to this thing shown below&lt;/a&gt;, shrunk it down to 0.6x to fit my printer, set my printer settings from medium to fine resolution, and got pretty good results! I still need to further tweak and edit the design on &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.tinkercad.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.tinkercad.com&lt;/a&gt; to give the pull key better clearance, and better connection with the hub gear, and I think I'll be able to get a great result! I got it to fly a few times up to 8 ft high or so, but the pull is very rough and inconsistent, so the model needs further tweaking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/g6G53.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Screenshot of the Thingiverse page for the helicopter model&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/g6G53.png&quot; alt=&quot;Screenshot of the Thingiverse page for the helicopter model&quot; title=&quot;Screenshot of the Thingiverse page for the helicopter model&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sub&gt;Keywords: ToyBox 3D printer helicopter and toybox printer clearances, print dimensions, print volume, specs, print settings&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="32117" LastEditorUserId="32117" LastEditDate="2023-03-25T08:13:39.530" LastActivityDate="2023-03-25T08:13:39.530" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18536" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18533" CreationDate="2021-12-10T15:15:52.450" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Try setting the z-seam to &lt;em&gt;random&lt;/em&gt; in your slicer.  In Slic3r it is &lt;em&gt;Seam position&lt;/em&gt; under &lt;em&gt;Advanced&lt;/em&gt; near the bottom of the &lt;em&gt;Layer and perimeters&lt;/em&gt; page of the &lt;em&gt;Print Settings&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15075" LastActivityDate="2021-12-10T15:15:52.450" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18538" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18539" CreationDate="2021-12-11T17:09:01.297" Score="3" ViewCount="1138" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Update following advice from @R..GitHubSTOPHELPINGICE in the comments - I've increased the Z-offset from -2.97 to -3.10 and all now appears to be much better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Printer:&lt;/strong&gt; Ender 3 V2 with heated glass bed&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Slicer:&lt;/strong&gt; Cura 4.11&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Temps:&lt;/strong&gt; extruder 215 °C, bed 65 °C first layer, 60 °C remaining (works the best for the filament I'm using, lower for other filament).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Filament:&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B08QJFZ5LP?th=1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;3DTomorrow UK PLA Filament - Anthracite Grey - 1.75 mm&lt;/a&gt; (But happens with all others too e.g. ERYONE, ZIRO)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Summary:&lt;/strong&gt; On the first layer, every time the printer starts extruding to the bed after a move, the first approx. 10 mm doesn't stick, but the rest sticks perfectly.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The issue, as an example, I'm trying to print a case for a Raspberry Pi which has air vents on the bottom.  When the print starts, it does the line down the side which the first ~ 10 mm doesn't stick, but the rest does perfectly.  It prints the skirt, which again the first ~ 10 mm doesn't stick, but the rest does, then when it gets to doing the vent slots, the same again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The photo hopefully shows what I'm trying to explain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Av98F.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Av98F.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Initial extrude not sticking&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When printing a raft, again the first ~ 10 mm of the extrude doesn't stick, but the remaining does.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2TUkz.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2TUkz.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Raft initial extrude does not stick but the rest does&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once the raft is printed, the first layer sticks to it perfectly well&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2VEMc.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2VEMc.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;First layer sticks to raft without problem&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bed is pretty level, I'm using a BLTouch to assist and has been cleaned with alcohol before the print.  Bed has been levelled and the Z-offset calibrated to -2.97.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have &lt;em&gt;Enable Retraction&lt;/em&gt; on, 5 mm, 45 mm/s speed. I've tried increasing and reducing these, increasing/decreasing print speed, manual Z-axis offset fine adjustments, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did think &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/8022/first-3-mm-prints-poorly-then-fine-after-that&quot;&gt;First 3 mm prints poorly, then fine after that&lt;/a&gt; was kind of the same issue, but there's no discussion of the issue being for every touch of the bed within the same print job.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any advice would be appreciated.  I've loitered this community for quite a while and lots of Google searching hasn't come up with any suggestions (there's actually very little I could find on this kind of troubleshooting).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="32271" LastEditorUserId="32271" LastEditDate="2021-12-11T21:46:42.083" LastActivityDate="2021-12-12T01:22:42.490" Title="Filament not adhering to bed for the first 10 mm after every move" Tags="|creality-ender-3|heated-bed|adhesion|build-plate|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18539" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18538" CreationDate="2021-12-12T01:22:42.490" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;From the pictures it looks like the distance between your bed and nozzle is too great. The way I see this is that the extrusion lines that should be pressed against each other have small gaps between them, and look rounded rather than flat. The only other way this could happen is with severe underextrusion/wrong esteps-per-mm, but that seems unlikely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that &amp;quot;automatic bed leveling&amp;quot; &lt;strong&gt;fundamentally cannot&lt;/strong&gt; help you get this right because it depends on a quantity it can't measure, the Z offset between the bed leveling probe and the nozzle tip. At best it can help you get the distance &lt;em&gt;consistent[ly wrong]&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is also consistent with raft fixing the problem, since the raft has extra wide extrusions in the first layer whose width will just vary if the leveling is wrong, and after that, all print heights are just relative to the top of the raft.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2021-12-12T01:22:42.490" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18540" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18542" CreationDate="2021-12-12T01:35:50.060" Score="1" ViewCount="326" Body="&lt;p&gt;I literally just started OpenSCAD today, so please take it easy on me, but is shell scripting possible with OpenSCAD? as in, to write a script in the OpenSCAD syntax, and have it output images, or animations? with or without having to render the image.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've been reading the man pages, and I'm not sure if that can be done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="32273" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-12-12T01:38:32.437" LastActivityDate="2021-12-12T09:07:27.033" Title="Is shell scripting possible with OpenSCAD?" Tags="|openscad|scripts|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18541" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18540" CreationDate="2021-12-12T02:27:35.067" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can invoke OpenSCAD from the command line, and have it output image renderings or STL files. The &lt;code&gt;-D&lt;/code&gt; command line option lets you pass variable definitions/overrides (or arbitrary scad code fragments) in, which can be used to animate or otherwise. And, like any command line too, you can invoke it from a shell script, although using a makefile tends to be a better option.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2021-12-12T02:27:35.067" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18542" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18540" CreationDate="2021-12-12T09:07:27.033" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;No. OpenSCAD is not a scripting language. You cannot use it to generate any kind of executable code. All that it does is to create static geometrical objects that can be exported as STL files (and other formats). If you want to do scripting, use a scripting language such as Python. Note that Python has some wrappers for OpenSCAD that may allow you to do what you want. For example, see  &lt;a href=&quot;https://pypi.org/project/openpyscad/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;OpenPySCAD&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3953" LastActivityDate="2021-12-12T09:07:27.033" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18543" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18545" CreationDate="2021-12-12T09:18:29.137" Score="1" ViewCount="125" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I want to make 3D printable objects out of my old drawings, what are my options? Do I need to redraw the entire thing in 3D or is there a better way?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is an example of the sort of pictures I have, I long ago lost the original Macromedia files so I just have them like this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YReI6.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YReI6.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;example pic&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31811" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-12-12T14:06:33.660" LastActivityDate="2021-12-12T16:25:22.947" Title="3D from 2D picture options" Tags="|3d-design|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18544" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-12-12T12:34:21.530" Score="1" ViewCount="333" Body="&lt;p&gt;After successfully printing for a while with my Ender 3 Max I've encountered a problem I can't solve. The printer executes the heating and homing portion of the G-code after which it just sits in the middle (I have BLTouch installed, so homing ends in the middle). The print percentages go up (much quicker than they should) and the print &amp;quot;finishes&amp;quot;. No filament is extruded and the head doesn't move at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I've tried:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Different SD cards,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Checked the new G-code to make sure it doesn't only have the beginning and end,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Old G-code that worked the previous day,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Made sure that all axes, filament change, and purge work fine from the prepare menu,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Releveled the bed from the BLTouch leveling section from the control menu.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Everything but printing seems fine and now I'm stumped.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="32277" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-12-12T14:05:04.957" LastActivityDate="2021-12-12T14:05:04.957" Title="Creality Ender 3 Max won't print after homing" Tags="|creality-ender-3|ultimaker-cura|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18545" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18543" CreationDate="2021-12-12T16:25:22.947" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I presume that what you are saying is that you only have a rasterized image file. For example a .PNG file, and that you don't have any kind of source file containing vectors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since you're already a skilled artist from the looks of it, you're largely limited by the software that you have access to, or how much you're willing to spend on new software.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Probably the simplest and cheapest way would be to use a free program such as Inkscape to redraw your image as lineart only (You can import the image into the software and then trace over it). Draw it completely flat and 2 dimensional with no shading or colors. Only lines to represent edges. Save it as a Structured Vector Image (The default file for Inkskape). Then import it into a free 3D package such as blender.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This will import your image as a series of 2D lines in a 3D space. You can then use traditional 3D art skills (Which you may or may not have yet) to give it 3 dimensions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A complex shape like that might require a resin printer to print due to the high level of detail. Making it wouldn't be a task for the faint of heart.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A more expensive option would be to commission a professional to do it for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="29097" LastActivityDate="2021-12-12T16:25:22.947" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18546" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-12-12T16:32:07.713" Score="1" ViewCount="1208" Body="&lt;p&gt;Printer manufacturers such as Elegoo ship their printers with masks and advice users to wear them when handling resin or unwashed prints.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In what way does the mask protect you?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, do the masks provide protection from inhaling toxic fumes, or are they primarily to prevent resin entering the mouth or nose?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="29097" LastActivityDate="2021-12-13T15:46:57.240" Title="What protection does a face mask offer when using a resin printer?" Tags="|safety|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18547" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18519" CreationDate="2021-12-12T16:57:14.780" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;OK well I feel silly, it turns out it wasn't fully pushed into place, I pushed it in feeling it lock and thought it was secure, when it actually wasn't, pushing it in till it feels locked up twice resulted in it being properly secured. (sorry if my description doesn't make a lot of sense, I'm not good at that kind of thing, so I'm trying my best.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31152" LastActivityDate="2021-12-12T16:57:14.780" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18548" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-12-12T19:45:08.983" Score="1" ViewCount="1328" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most people, articles, videos, etc. refer to printing speed by linear speed (mm/s), but a lot of YouTubers prefer to talk about volumetric flow (mm&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt;/s) (mm cubed per second).  I suspect that at some point in the past year or three, some of the more engineer-y types switched to this new measurement standard, but I'm not entirely sure what happened.  What is the practical difference between using linear speed vs flow rate to determine print speed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a follow-up, how can you go about changing your print speed as a flow rate in a slicer?  It's easy to find the linear speed, but I have not found the flow rate speed.  I use Cura and will start using Prusa Slic3r soon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5576" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-12-13T00:32:45.827" LastActivityDate="2022-05-12T21:45:26.293" Title="What is the practical difference between using linear speed vs flow rate to determine print speed?" Tags="|speed|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18549" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-12-12T19:58:11.590" Score="5" ViewCount="3999" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've heard that PETG, what we print with, is slightly different than PET or PETE, which is commercially available.  Yet, PET bottles seem easy enough to recycle into prints according to these videos:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;#1 Multicolor printing-Details of free filament production from recycled bottle (PET)for 3D printer&#xA;&lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/E6Pjh18MmXY?start=0&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Precious Plastic channel&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCqA-SppbeUi5ou0isB27mgg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCqA-SppbeUi5ou0isB27mgg&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What properties change between PET and PETG?  Obviously, the additives will change, but what are the properties and parameters that change that make PETG more suited to 3D printing?  Especially given the fact that PETG is fairly hygroscopic, which I believe took a while for the community to uncover.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While more science is better as far as an answer, please keep it relevant to practical 3D printing as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5576" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-12-13T00:31:56.527" LastActivityDate="2023-07-04T03:40:54.873" Title="What is the difference between PET/PETE and PETG?" Tags="|petg|pet|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18550" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18548" CreationDate="2021-12-12T23:31:13.297" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Flow rate adds a dimension to the regularly used printing speed. Note that maximum volumetric flow is determined by the hotend (unless your extruder is under dimensioned or highly geared) as it cannot supply more molten filament than it can melt in a certain time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, instead of specifying the print speed, you should include the amount of material it can process. Volumetric flow includes nozzle diameter, layer thickness and hotend type.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;E.g. a 60 mm/s of a 0.4 mm nozzle at a 0.2 mm  layer height has a very different volumetric flow (4.8 mm³/s) from a 60 mm/s 0.8 mm nozzle at a 0.4 mm  layer height (19.2 mm³/s). The latter may require a different hotend to get that flow, but usually it is advised to print slower with a larger nozzle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most practical is to use the linear printing speed. This is the value you find in the slicers. But, for a given hotend design it is good to keep the maximum volumetric flow into account to determine whether you are within the specifications of the hotend when you change certain printing/slicing parameters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-12-13T17:56:14.990" LastActivityDate="2021-12-13T17:56:14.990" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18551" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18546" CreationDate="2021-12-13T01:00:47.237" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It depends entirely on what mask filter you use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The classic FFP range only filter particulates, athough there are filters that will protect against gases too. You would have to find out what sort of fumes are released from the resin (if any) and specify a filter accordingly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The image below shows the filter type and what it can filter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iW2xJ.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iW2xJ.png&quot; alt=&quot;1&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;image link: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.bugoutbagbuilder.com/blog/best-gas-mask-filters-2019&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.bugoutbagbuilder.com/blog/best-gas-mask-filters-2019&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="32282" LastEditorUserId="32282" LastEditDate="2021-12-13T15:46:57.240" LastActivityDate="2021-12-13T15:46:57.240" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18552" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18556" CreationDate="2021-12-13T13:56:08.087" Score="5" ViewCount="146" Body="&lt;p&gt;Subtractive manufacturing has been the way of the world for a while, but additive manufacturing, which is synonymous with 3D printing, has disrupted all of that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If extrusion-based printing is considered additive, then can we call resin printing additive?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Resin printers start with a resin bath and then essentially &amp;quot;subtract&amp;quot; the material it needs (via UV light). This is just a matter of terminology, no big deal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="29159" LastEditorUserId="36802" LastEditDate="2024-01-05T20:59:56.757" LastActivityDate="2024-01-05T20:59:56.757" Title="Is resin 3D printing considered &quot;additive&quot;?" Tags="|extrusion|resin|terminology|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18553" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18549" CreationDate="2021-12-13T14:18:13.893" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use PETG when I want the object to be somewhat rigid, but flexible enough not to break, especially object having thin parts.  PETG is strong enough to print two layer 0.5 mm thick and be very flexible in the z direction, such as printing straps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically PETG is amorphous while PET/PETE is crystalline.  Amorphous gives a slightly lower melting point and less out-gassing, characteristics better for 3D printing.  PETs crystal structure makes it more rigid than PETG, but leaves PETG more impact resistant and easier to print.  The more rigid PET translates to more dimensional accuracy as with PLA.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.oberk.com/packaging-crash-course/differences-in-pet&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.oberk.com/packaging-crash-course/differences-in-pet&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PETE (or PET)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PETE is the most common variation of the thermoplastic polymer resin. The clarity of PET is considered to be the best of all plastics with very good chemical resistance. PETE is formed into containers via 1-Step or 2-Step Injection Blow Molding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PETG&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Polyethylene Terephthalate Glycol (PETG) is an amorphous variation of PET. PETG cannot be oriented and therefore you will not find pre-forms of this type of resin. Extrusion, Injection Blow Moulding and 1-Step Injection Stretch Blow Moulding are all possible for PETG, it is also used frequently for 3D printing. Clarity and chemical resistance are considered good when compared to the previous three variations, however PETG has poor impact resistance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why is PETG used for 3D printing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Quote from &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.3dnatives.com/en/petg-3d-printing-guide-181220194/#&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.3dnatives.com/en/petg-3d-printing-guide-181220194/#&lt;/a&gt;!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The characteristics of PETG&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PETG is therefore a copolymer, combining the properties of PET and glycol. The addition of the latter reduces the overheating issues of PET and therefore its brittle appearance. Among the main characteristics of PETG are its hardness, impact and chemical resistance, transparency and ductility. It is an easily extruded material with good thermal stability. It is particularly appreciated for its food compatibility. On the downside, note that it requires a heating plate to avoid the warping effects found in ABS 3D printing – even if the warping rate is low, it is better to use a BuildTak sheet to make sure the material grips. It is also more prone to scratches than PLA. Finally, it can quickly take moisture and will keep better in a cool and dry environment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15075" LastEditorUserId="15075" LastEditDate="2021-12-13T18:36:54.730" LastActivityDate="2021-12-13T18:36:54.730" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18554" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-12-13T21:16:32.303" Score="1" ViewCount="841" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am struggling with a problem. In short: I have managed to set up my Ender 3 V2 in such a way that the first few layers print (almost) perfectly, but after the first few layers (do not know exactly, but maybe after 2-4 layers) I am having massive issues with (maybe) under extrusion, with the filament coming out in a &amp;quot;pearl necklace&amp;quot; shape. Here are a few images for illustration:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First layer of bed level test (&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.chepclub.com/bed-level.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this source&lt;/a&gt;). The filament is nicely flat on the print bed, also it still sticks when I rub it with my fingers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SxuXU.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Photo of bed leveling calibration print&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SxuXU.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Photo of bed leveling calibration print&quot; title=&quot;Photo of bed leveling calibration print&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Third/fourth layer of bed level test. The upper layers are of this &amp;quot;pearl necklace&amp;quot; shape (maybe there is an established name for that?), i.e. something like ---o---o---o---&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oxxdi.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Photo of calibration print with bumps after the first few layers&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oxxdi.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Photo of calibration print with bumps after the first few layers&quot; title=&quot;Photo of calibration print with bumps after the first few layers&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Similarly with the Benchy. I printed the first few layers. The first layer is quite clean and you can make out the font nicely (this turned upside down, i.e. you're looking at it from the bottom).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BydP6.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Bottom of 3DBenchy showing printing errors&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BydP6.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Bottom of 3DBenchy showing printing errors&quot; title=&quot;Bottom of 3DBenchy showing printing errors&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After the first few layers, the shape of the filament is again this problematic pearl necklace shape (you can already see that at the boundary of the previous image, where you can see those layers).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jX4me.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Top view of first few millimeters of 3DBenchy showing printing errors&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jX4me.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Top view of first few millimeters of 3DBenchy showing printing errors&quot; title=&quot;Top view of first few millimeters of 3DBenchy showing printing errors&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm totally at loss at how to resolve this issue. How can the print quality degrade so much after the first few layers? I don't even have any good hypotheses (temperature dropping after some time? Z-offset needs to be adjusted for every layer? Hot end starts clogging during the print?).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="32290" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-12-13T22:34:49.527" LastActivityDate="2021-12-14T15:56:05.170" Title="Massive blobs/under extrusion/&quot;pearl necklace&quot; only after first few layers (Ender 3 V2)" Tags="|creality-ender-3|print-quality|underextrusion|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18555" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-12-13T22:11:06.757" Score="1" ViewCount="241" Body="&lt;p&gt;The printer was working fine until the nozzle jammed, so I cleaned it out but accidentally unplugged the BLTouch. I plugged it straight back in again but now none of the axes will move at all, not even manually. The BLTouch lights up still, I’ve checked the connector on it and it all looks fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Completely stumped. Any ideas please let me know! Cheers&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="32291" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-12-13T22:35:59.390" LastActivityDate="2021-12-13T22:35:59.390" Title="Axes no longer moving Ender 5 Plus" Tags="|creality-ender-5|creality|axis|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18556" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18552" CreationDate="2021-12-14T00:15:07.403" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Resin printing (aka stereo lithography) was actually invented before (FFF/FDM) filament extrusion printing.  The term 3D printing was more or less created as a generic way to name and describe both along with a handful of other methods.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is additive because you add layers to other layers to build the part rather than carving up an original solid block.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Resin printing is no more subtractive than removing the tip of the filament in FFF is subtractive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28397" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-12-14T06:04:43.820" LastActivityDate="2021-12-14T06:04:43.820" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18557" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18186" CreationDate="2021-12-14T01:52:58.840" Score="1" Body="&lt;h2&gt;1. Meshroom&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://alicevision.org/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://alicevision.org/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Meshroom can take any number of overlapping photographs and turn them into a 3D model. Those pictures can be taken from any phone, or even a drone. For best results, you will need to know the make/model and sensor size of the camera.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Works on Windows/Linux and requires a CUDA compatible video card&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Resources&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://alicevision.org/#meshroom&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://alicevision.org/#meshroom&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://blog.prusaprinters.org/photogrammetry-2-3d-scanning-simpler-better-than-ever_29393/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Prusa Blog on Meshroom&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;2. ADOP&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/darglein/ADOP&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://github.com/darglein/ADOP&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;ADOP is a neural network similar to Meshroom that can combine photos into a 3D model, however, it has a very impressive ability to generate highly accurate data from just a few pictures. It also provides a virtual reality viewer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Works on Linux/Windows. Does require some familiarity compiling code&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Resources&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;ADOP featured on &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dZ_5TPWGPQI&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;2-minute papers YouTube channel &lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/darglein/ADOP&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://github.com/darglein/ADOP&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28932" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-12-14T04:28:52.690" LastActivityDate="2021-12-14T04:28:52.690" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18558" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-12-14T02:37:53.913" Score="1" ViewCount="153" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just got an Anycubic Photon 4k DLP printer, and am experimenting with the print parameters in Photon Workshop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I noticed that the number of bottom layers (40 second exposure time) was defaulted to 6.&#xA;Experimenting to get better quality near the build plate, I reduced the bottom layer to 1. This resulted in the first layer adhering just as well as before, but the part de-laminated from the first layer. The default exposure time on the other layers is 2 seconds and that has been working well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Physically I do not see why the part would de-laminate from a well-adhered layer 1, but not de-laminate at a layer 6? maybe 6 bottom layers is hard coded in the slicing software and it just skipped exposing them? Curious if anyone else has run into this or understands the epoxy exposure dynamics a bit better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastActivityDate="2021-12-14T02:37:53.913" Title="How many bottom layers for a DLP printer?" Tags="|adhesion|dlp|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18559" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18458" CreationDate="2021-12-14T06:13:16.350" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Worked out the reason for the thickening filament. A number of sites refer to heat creep and suggest that you check that the heatsink is clear and the heatsink fan is working properly. In my case, they were. However, the fan outlet (where it blows on the heat sink) was full of garbage. Cleaned that out things improved. Also replacing a dodgy thermistor cleared up the residual problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23909" LastActivityDate="2021-12-14T06:13:16.350" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18561" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18554" CreationDate="2021-12-14T13:19:07.090" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I finally managed to solve the issue. It was indeed (massive) under extrusion (during the whole print).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Let me first explain why this does not show up in the first layers&lt;/strong&gt; (according to what I read somewhere else online):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The under-extrusion issue is already present in the first layers, but it does not become visible due to the print bed giving enough &amp;quot;counterpressure&amp;quot;. This means that the material is squished between the bed and the nozzle, making up for the under-extrusion. After a few layers, this does not happen anymore, and the lack of flow begins to show.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;How I solved the issue:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I made an extrusion calibration according to this &lt;a href=&quot;https://forum.snapmaker.com/t/extruder-calibration-a-must/7724/32?page=2&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Snapmaker forum article&lt;/a&gt;. Basically, I measured off 100 mm from my extruder input, marked the 100 mm mark with a black sharpie and told the printer to extrude (what he believes to be) 100 mm of filament. This turned out the be not 100 mm but rather approximately 25 mm (which means that the printer is extruding about 25 % of what it is supposed to do). Then I went and changed the printer's flow rate to four times the current rate, which solved the issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Why was the extruder so bad?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know exactly, but I had to hot-glue two parts in my extruder together because they were freely moving against each other and the motor's torque was not transferred to the extruder's axle. Could be I introduced some friction this way, but I saw the same under-extrusion issues before I noticed this issue, so I don't really know.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="32290" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-12-14T15:56:05.170" LastActivityDate="2021-12-14T15:56:05.170" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18562" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18563" CreationDate="2021-12-14T17:28:14.703" Score="3" ViewCount="2323" Body="&lt;p&gt;How hot is too hot for any given magnetic layer holding a steel bed surface?  Are certain types or grades of magnets more or less suited for this purpose?  How can I ascertain which kind I have if the manufacturer doesn't tell me?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've heard that some magnetic beds should not be used for certain materials because those materials require a very hot bed for adhesion.  But in the modern age where resellers and even manufacturers don't usually know what they are selling, what are the rules of thumb, and where are the limits?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5576" LastActivityDate="2021-12-16T10:20:50.547" Title="How hot is too hot for magnetic beds?" Tags="|heated-bed|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18563" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18562" CreationDate="2021-12-14T18:04:00.940" Score="7" Body="&lt;h1&gt;Depends on the magnets used&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Magnets demagnetize under heat and are fully demagnetized once their &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Curie_temperature&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Curie temperature&lt;/a&gt; is reached. This Curie temperature depends heavily on the type of magnet, and it is not the point where they already suffer demagnetization but where they have none left. This means, that the useable temperature band is much lower - and in some cases, low temperature can negatively impact a magnet's holding force.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Typical Magnet tapes and foils as one uses them for example kitchen magnets can start to fail as early as 65 °C and have Curie temperatures around 80-85 °C - making them unsuitable for printing high-temperature printing.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The Chromium-Oxide magnetic tapes on cassettes are totally demagnetized at 113 °C.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Neodymium_magnet&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Neodymium-iron-boron&lt;/a&gt; magnets stuffer permanent damage over 100 °C and totally lose their magnetization at the Curie temperature of 320 °C&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Samarium%E2%80%93cobalt_magnet&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Samarium–cobalt magnets&lt;/a&gt; only suffer damage over 250 to 550 °C and have a Curie Temperature of 700 to 850 °C,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2021-12-16T10:20:50.547" LastActivityDate="2021-12-16T10:20:50.547" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18564" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3304" CreationDate="2021-12-14T18:32:57.170" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Enable &amp;quot;classic jerk&amp;quot; in the firmware and put it to 12 on both X and Y.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That helped me get perfect prints.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="32303" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-12-14T20:28:08.350" LastActivityDate="2021-12-14T20:28:08.350" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18565" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-12-14T21:27:45.293" Score="2" ViewCount="85" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have Marlin 2.0.9.2 configured to wipe the nozzle on a brass brush mounted to the side of the bed of my printer. It does 3 zigzag movements. It cleans up the ooze nicely from the nozzle BUT... the pattern ends where it began, so it cleans the ooze and then right at the end of the pattern it picks it back up off the brush. Is there a way to do 2.5 or 3.5 patterns, and avoid this? All the cleaning options (straight, circle, zigzag) seem to be cyclic...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7233" LastActivityDate="2021-12-14T21:27:45.293" Title="Marlin NOZZLE_CLEAN_STROKES half a pattern?" Tags="|marlin|cleaning|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18567" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18570" CreationDate="2021-12-15T05:54:41.370" Score="4" ViewCount="15705" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a new Creality Ender 2 Pro with a Creality 4.2.3 mainboard. I'm attempting to compile Marlin to fix a bug. How can I tell what driver chips I have on this board?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've narrowed it down to likely &lt;code&gt;A4988&lt;/code&gt; or &lt;code&gt;TMC2208_STANDALONE&lt;/code&gt; or possibly the &lt;code&gt;TMC2225&lt;/code&gt;. Strangely Creality only has documentation for the 4.2.2 and the 4.2.7 boards (not 4.2.3)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;4.2.2 =&amp;gt; TMC2208&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;4.2.3 =&amp;gt; ?&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;4.2.7 =&amp;gt; TMC2225&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some say you can tell the driver just by listening to the noise it makes. &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/4hL-r02w6rM&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Here is a video of the printer running&lt;/a&gt;. The motors are nearly silent to my ear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ALHyb.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Photo of Ender 2 Pro motherboard version 4.2.3&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ALHyb.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Photo of Ender 2 Pro motherboard version 4.2.3&quot; title=&quot;Photo of Ender 2 Pro motherboard version 4.2.3&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xUdVU.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xUdVU.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Top corner photo&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Resources&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/Creality3DPrinting/Ender-3/issues/58#issuecomment-842935869&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://github.com/Creality3DPrinting/Ender-3/issues/58#issuecomment-842935869&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;4.2.2 &lt;a href=&quot;https://github-repository-files.githubusercontent.com/139231738/7626788?X-Amz-Algorithm=AWS4-HMAC-SHA256&amp;amp;X-Amz-Credential=AKIAIWNJYAX4CSVEH53A%2F20211215%2Fus-east-1%2Fs3%2Faws4_request&amp;amp;X-Amz-Date=20211215T153407Z&amp;amp;X-Amz-Expires=300&amp;amp;X-Amz-Signature=43dfe1ff5518c5003cf55ade1554caeb5953c733a599db07fb153cc976cebb45&amp;amp;X-Amz-SignedHeaders=host&amp;amp;actor_id=0&amp;amp;key_id=0&amp;amp;repo_id=139231738&amp;amp;response-content-disposition=attachment%3Bfilename%3D1623133432-Creality422-Schematic-2.pdf&amp;amp;response-content-type=application%2Fpdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;schematic&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Configurations/pull/633#issuecomment-995206382&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Marlin Config pull request&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28932" LastEditorUserId="28932" LastEditDate="2021-12-15T21:25:39.523" LastActivityDate="2022-01-18T23:25:11.197" Title="How to tell if I have TMC2208 or A4988 Drivers on Creality Silent V4.2.3 Board?" Tags="|stepper-driver|creality|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18568" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-12-15T09:09:57.847" Score="3" ViewCount="187" Body="&lt;p&gt;Why do concrete 3D printers lay the concrete in a zigzag shape? I know pouring it in a straight line makes it unstable, but the zigzag shape reduces the contact of the top layer to the layer below. What is the advantage?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="32308" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2021-12-15T21:16:15.063" LastActivityDate="2022-09-13T16:05:15.363" Title="Why do concrete 3D printers zigzag?" Tags="|concrete-printers|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18569" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-12-15T21:22:11.597" Score="1" ViewCount="1239" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been tinkering with my 3DTouch (basically a BLTouch clone) on my CoreXY and have been trying to set up UBL in Marlin. There are a few configurations I haven't been able to find any useful resources about, as I'm having a hard time understanding and tackling some of them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do not understand &lt;code&gt;MESH_INSET&lt;/code&gt; and &lt;code&gt;PROBING_MARGIN&lt;/code&gt; and/or their difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also couldn't find anything useful about &lt;code&gt;SEGMENT_LEVELED_MOVES&lt;/code&gt; and &lt;code&gt;LEVELED_SEGMENT_LENGTH&lt;/code&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="32313" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-12-16T13:10:35.243" LastActivityDate="2021-12-16T13:10:35.243" Title="MESH_INSET vs PROBING_MARGIN" Tags="|marlin|bed-leveling|3dtouch|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18570" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18567" CreationDate="2021-12-15T22:05:33.087" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Configurations/pull/633#issuecomment-995206382&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;'The-EG' comment&lt;/a&gt; in this GitHub issue, &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Configurations/pull/633&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Add Creality Ender 2 Pro config #633&lt;/a&gt;, you can often determine the stepper drivers by one of a few ways:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Listen to the sound. The 'TMC22**' will sound much quieter&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Look for a marking in Sharpie on the SD Card reader&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;C = HR4998&#xA;E = A4988&#xA;A = TMC2208&#xA;B = TMC2209&#xA;H = TMC2225&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Remove the heat sync&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Configurations/pull/633#issuecomment-995480295&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Configurations/pull/633#issuecomment-995480295&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After removing the heat sync, it appears that the Chip is actually a &lt;code&gt;MS35775&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0o5mK.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Closeup of MS35775 on board&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0o5mK.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Closeup of MS35775 on board&quot; title=&quot;Closeup of MS35775 on board&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28932" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2021-12-16T11:00:20.900" LastActivityDate="2021-12-16T11:00:20.900" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18571" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-12-16T16:56:09.973" Score="2" ViewCount="217" Body="&lt;p&gt;My Anycubic i3 Mega suddenly stopped printing properly. As you can see on the images attached, the printed filament seems to be too thin which causes the layers to not stick together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I already:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;cleaned the extruder&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;replaced the hotend (the old one was quite dirty)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;leveled the bed&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;increased the printing temperature (bed from 55 °C to 60 °C, nozzle from 200 °C to 215 °C and later 230 °C)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cuAOa.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Printed model with thin lines and gaps between the lines&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cuAOa.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Printed model with thin lines and gaps between the lines&quot; title=&quot;Printed model with thin lines and gaps between the lines&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="32319" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-12-16T21:10:22.183" LastActivityDate="2023-01-11T17:00:35.047" Title="Anycubic i3 Mega layers don't stick together/are too thin" Tags="|extruder|bed-leveling|hotend|nozzle|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18572" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-12-16T18:43:21.593" Score="0" ViewCount="59" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know how to move a project I'm working on in VSCode on my Mac onto a different Windows computer? It's a Marlin firmware file using Auto Build Marlin and I want to move it from my main Mac computer to the old Windows computer I'm designating for the 3D printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="32229" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-12-16T19:49:53.093" LastActivityDate="2022-01-15T22:02:10.153" Title="Switching computers for 3D printer" Tags="|marlin|diy-3d-printer|firmware|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18573" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7683" CreationDate="2021-12-16T20:29:42.553" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have had the same issue with mine. And the clicking was indeed calibration. When you're doing the paper part, I make sure I move the axis up one point from the bed allowing enough room for the filament to lay and adhere. If it still thumps after, check for a clogged nozzle (which you’ll have to do anyway if you have attempted countless failed prints from not being calibrated correctly) I can guarantee there’s a blockage at that point it’s just a given if you think about it. Also, I did read above that someone experienced the nozzle being in fact .3 mm instead of .4 mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I believe this to be true as well. All of their models seem to not be sized right. Therefore, path extrusion needs to be adjusted as well when all is said and done. Good luck&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="32325" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-12-16T21:14:56.647" LastActivityDate="2021-12-16T21:14:56.647" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18574" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18572" CreationDate="2021-12-16T21:24:14.640" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could use version control to keep the project on GitHub, then you can clone the project to anywhere you like:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://stackoverflow.com/questions/46877667/how-to-add-a-new-project-to-github-using-vs-code&quot;&gt;How to add a new project to Github using VS Code&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://code.visualstudio.com/docs/editor/versioncontrol&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Using Version Control in VS Code&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's quite a lot of reading there, but you will end up with a more robust result than simply copying files across.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11255" LastActivityDate="2021-12-16T21:24:14.640" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18575" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18578" CreationDate="2021-12-16T21:58:00.310" Score="1" ViewCount="1900" Body="&lt;p&gt;It seems there are some missing lines on the outer wall on the Z-axis with my prints. I'm not able to pinpoint the problem. Does anyone have ideas about what might be wrong with my setup/settings?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3q1k3.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Printed model with printing errors highlighted&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3q1k3.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Printed model with printing errors highlighted&quot; title=&quot;Printed model with printing errors highlighted&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are some settings that I think are relevant:&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Printer: Ender 3 v1&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Filament: Das Filament&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Slicer: Cura&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hotend temp: 215 °C&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Layer height: 0.2 mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wall speed: 30 mm/s&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Travel speed: 200 mm/s&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Retraction distance: 6.5 mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Combing mode: not in skin (Max comb: 30)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cheers&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="32326" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-12-16T22:24:20.763" LastActivityDate="2021-12-17T14:06:39.107" Title="Missing outer wall on some layers?" Tags="|creality-ender-3|ultimaker-cura|z-axis|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18576" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18568" CreationDate="2021-12-16T23:13:06.677" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Presumably to decrease material costs, speed up printing time and reduce curing time.  The thicker the concrete, the more time it takes to cure.  You need it strong enough for the next layer by the time the print-head comes around again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the concrete is poured in a zigzag it has a thicker/wider base, meaning it can be built higher and walls can be wider before they need a corner for strength.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally, small sealed voids in the wall improve the thermal insulation properties of the wall.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Last - if the wall has vertical voids with a zigzag infill between vertical walls, then those spaces can be used to run wires for power/phone/network or water pipes, to hide and protect them instead of surface mounting them inside,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12956" LastActivityDate="2021-12-16T23:13:06.677" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18577" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13940" CreationDate="2021-12-17T09:15:14.373" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is a problem with Z-axis' uneven movement. I worked a lot on fixing this and the solution I came up with was to reduce flow in Cura post-processing. You need to measure the movement of the X-axis in the vertical direction on the first layers and calibrate flow. Hope this helps as it helped me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nFMrj.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Spreadsheet of Ender 3 first layers height&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nFMrj.png&quot; alt=&quot;Spreadsheet of Ender 3 first layers height&quot; title=&quot;Spreadsheet of Ender 3 first layers height&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="32330" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-12-17T14:07:47.907" LastActivityDate="2021-12-17T14:07:47.907" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18578" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18575" CreationDate="2021-12-17T10:53:28.330" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In case others are interested in the solution, after playing with various settings, increasing the nozzle temperature fixed the issue. Using 217-218 I'm able to get a decent surface now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="32326" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2021-12-17T14:01:06.870" LastActivityDate="2021-12-17T14:01:06.870" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18579" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18568" CreationDate="2021-12-17T14:04:19.850" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The zigzag is more rigid.  You can push a square into a trapezoid without putting any of the sides in compression or tension.  However, if you make a trapezoid with two triangles, the diagonal dividing the trapezoid. into squares resists an external force changing the shape of the trapezoid. Thus, the zigzag takes less material for adequate support than making squares as does cinder blocks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Look at steel joist design.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Qugrt.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Qugrt.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15075" LastEditorUserId="15075" LastEditDate="2021-12-17T14:26:15.120" LastActivityDate="2021-12-17T14:26:15.120" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18580" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18575" CreationDate="2021-12-17T14:06:39.107" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The OP solved the problem by increasing temperature from 210 to &amp;quot;217-218&amp;quot;. While it's good to have it working now, this likely suggests other problems with the printer thaat should be investigated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the change in temperature made the difference to get this print working, your extruder is just marginally able to push a sufficient amount of material through the hotend at the speed and temperature you're at. Normally I would expect an Ender 3 to do somewhat better, even with the stock extruder and hotend. Here are a few things you might want to check:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Is the filament properly dried? If it's absorbed moisture, the vapor phase transition will absorb &lt;strong&gt;at lot&lt;/strong&gt; of heat from the hotend, making the effective extrusion temperature significantly lower than the block temperature. In my experience, it behaves like it's 20-25 ˚C lower than what you have it set to. You can kinda compensate for this by increasing the temperature (keeping an eye not to go over the safe temperature for the PTFE lining, max of about 250 ˚C) but the right solution if this is your problem is to dry your filament.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Is anything mechanically wrong with the extruder? A crack in the tension arm or weak spring can leave it very underpowered.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Are the extruder hob gear teeth clogged with plastic shavings? This will also leave it underpowered.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2021-12-17T14:06:39.107" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18582" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18586" CreationDate="2021-12-17T15:33:32.567" Score="-1" ViewCount="809" Body="&lt;p&gt;What would the best filament for an Ender 3 V2 be? I don't mind about the look but I would like for you to be able to bridge with it and for it to be reasonably cheap. If possible could you give several different options at different prices, different qualities and could you describe which website/company you can get it from.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="32336" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-12-17T18:45:13.697" LastActivityDate="2021-12-18T04:28:45.297" Title="What filament would be best for Creality's Ender 3 v2?" Tags="|creality-ender-3|filament|filament-choice|creality|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18583" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-12-17T16:06:47.813" Score="0" ViewCount="386" Body="&lt;p&gt;New to the group so please let me know if I am not asking / formatting correctly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I have just started 3D resin printing with my new Elegoo Saturn. I have printed a couple of free STL files with no problem. I drew up a part for my modeling project with SketchUp maker. Exported the STL file into Chitubox and made a test print after slicing the file. The bottom layer(s) do not seem to print ... the bottom plate should be 4 mm but always prints at 2-3 mm. This makes my clearance groves almost disappear. What should be thru holes have a small layer closing the hole. The bottom layer seems to be &amp;quot;smashed out ... not a clean edge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have read, watched, studied lots of &amp;quot;help&amp;quot; on the web, make several slow changes to bottom layer print times, adjustments to lift / rest / etc, and lots more test prints which all have failed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FNmFN.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FNmFN.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/m3eXv.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/m3eXv.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Am09k.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Am09k.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XPneW.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XPneW.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/syhzP.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/syhzP.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="32318" LastEditorUserId="32318" LastEditDate="2021-12-18T01:52:10.623" LastActivityDate="2022-09-27T21:04:47.910" Title="First / bottom layers not printing?" Tags="|resin|layer-height|print-failure|elegoo-saturn|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18584" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19161" CreationDate="2021-12-17T16:18:43.933" Score="1" ViewCount="600" Body="&lt;p&gt;My CR-10 is only a couple of months old. It came factory fitted with auto bed leveling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Recently, the bed leveling probe has stuck in the withdrawn position whilst it is measuring prior to a print. Whilst stuck in this position the red light flashes. I am able to temporarily resolve the problem by gently pulling the probe down, but then have to start the measuring process all over again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This problem is occurring more often and if I don't sit through the lengthy measuring process and restart if necessary, the printer will carry on printing in 'mid-air'.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="32337" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-12-17T18:50:02.123" LastActivityDate="2022-03-26T11:24:22.407" Title="Creality CR-10S Pro V2 Auto Bed Leveling probe sticks" Tags="|troubleshooting|bltouch|creality-cr-10|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18586" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18582" CreationDate="2021-12-18T04:28:45.297" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sorry - no one here can tell you to buy brand X from website Y.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However there are an enormous number of options and eliminating some broad categories can help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Presuming your printer is stock, it has a brass nozzle, and therefore anything &amp;quot;reinforced&amp;quot; or abrasive is not feasible.  That excludes carbon fibre or nylon-reinforced filaments.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;ABS is probably unprintable, unless you've added a heated enclosure&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;TPU might work, but it has properties that suit certain kinds of jobs, like flexible phone cases.  If you're not printing those things, TPU is wasted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;PETG is also a maybe - I have no experience with it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;PLA is the best for printing on an entry-level printer like an ender3.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can eliminate all 2.85mm and 3mm filament, because your stock nozzle is a 1.75mm&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've personally not tried TPU or PETG on my ender3v2, mostly because committing to a whole roll is an expense I can't justify.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I were you I'd ask anyone locally who prints, &amp;quot;where do you get good filament?&amp;quot; and use that as a starting point.  Ask your local library if they have a 3d printing service (this is astonishingly common) and where they source filament.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some people only use the cheapest filament available, others have preferred brands, and others use only premium supplies.  Figure out what your personality is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Going cheap is reasonable if you're only toying about.  If this printer is doing real work for people, consider stepping up to something better - cost of failed prints will outweigh the cost of better filament as your skills improve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would suggest exploring different styles of PLA, like the metallic-look or Silk mixes.  You can also get great effects from Rainbow PLA, which mean you have to have fewer colours in stock.  Lastly PLA+ mixtures exist, which are improvements on plain PLA.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12956" LastActivityDate="2021-12-18T04:28:45.297" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18587" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-12-18T08:29:54.370" Score="2" ViewCount="1377" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an Ender 3 V1 with a glass Creality plate. I was having difficulty using manual levelling and my prints were struggling, so I ordered a 3DTouch. I have installed the 3DTouch and used Creality's BLTouch firmware. But my bed is still not level.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So my build is an Ender 3 V1 with:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Extruder upgraded to all-metal extruder&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Glass bed upgrade&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;3DTouch Upgrade&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Capricorn Tubing&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Yellow bed springs&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I manually levelled my bed using my 3DTouch. I used the &lt;code&gt;G30&lt;/code&gt; command in &lt;code&gt;Pronterface&lt;/code&gt; to probe each corner of the plate. At each corner, I would adjust the knob until the 3DTouch read 0.0. I did this iteratively multiple times until I thought it was reasonably level. The four corner values were something like 0.1, 0.0, -0.2, and 0.3 mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have also put a straight edge with an Angle Finder Phone App. The bed is quite level. It reads 0, 1, or 2°&#xA;depending on how I place the level. X-axis gantry has a 1° tilt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is my current bed levelling mesh:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kepvq.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kepvq.png&quot; alt=&quot;My mesh bed levelling result&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After doing this, I added &lt;code&gt;G29&lt;/code&gt; after &lt;code&gt;G28&lt;/code&gt; in my starting G-Code in Cura. I sliced a model from Thingiverse that had 5 squares and some lines. Here are the results:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/we8Sk.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/we8Sk.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XWZZB.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XWZZB.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ONbBq.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ONbBq.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/h3aib.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/h3aib.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YBnku.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YBnku.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/O7gkY.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/O7gkY.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am using:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Filament : PLA&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bed Temp : 60 °C&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Nozzle Temp : 200 °C&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some miscellaneous notes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The bed was cleaned thoroughly prior to use&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I rotated the bed 90° and the print looked the exact same way&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I ensured that the bed soaked in some heat for some time prior to printing&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I have set my Z offset to -1.800 mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The frame and components seem to be square and tightened down. Nothing is shaking around and seems to be in order.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would really appreciate help on this. I'm really not sure what to do next. I've been really excited about 3D printing and I hope I can find a solution to this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Leveling using CHEP's video&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I have rebuilt my 3D printer using CHEP's video. I noticed that one or two things were off compared to how it was supposed to be. I will be doing some test prints to see if that actually fixed things. I am hopeful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did a mesh before any other changes, and the slant is very clear now. See below. I believe one of the plates on the gantry wasn't completely straight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XjTYg.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XjTYg.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Leveling after rebuilding printer&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is my latest mesh, after rebuilding the printer and then re-levelling its bed manually.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fn3G9.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fn3G9.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These are the results of the print. I had to change my Z offset to -1.60 mm. The broken line is my fault. It was caused by my finger. The focus is the corners. As I mentioned, this is after rebuilding my printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JFJ6U.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JFJ6U.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xyD3N.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xyD3N.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/P3fjP.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/P3fjP.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/b6IWZ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/b6IWZ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2oNF7.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2oNF7.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MR0WM.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MR0WM.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would like to have more probing points than Creality's 3x3 grid. To my understanding, Creality's source code is not available, and so I will be rolling my own with Marlin 2.0. I downloaded the latest Marlin from &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/releases&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/releases&lt;/a&gt;, and copied the 4.2.2 Creality configuration from the default Configurations. I then changed the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I ensured &lt;code&gt;#define PDITEMP&lt;/code&gt; is not commented so that I can do PID tuning of the nozzle.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Similar to 1., I ensured that &lt;code&gt;#define PIDTEMPBED&lt;/code&gt; is not commented so that I can do PID tuning of the bed.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I commented &lt;code&gt;#define Z_MIN_PROBE_USES_Z_MIN_ENDSTOP_PIN&lt;/code&gt; since I will be using the 5-pin BLTouch port that is on my 4.2.2. board.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I uncommented &lt;code&gt;#define USE_PROBE_FOR_Z_HOMING&lt;/code&gt; since I removed my z-axis endstop and want to use my 3DTouch as the z endstop.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Uncommented &lt;code&gt;#define BLTOUCH&lt;/code&gt; since the 3DTouch is a BLTouch clone.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Changed my x and y offsets in the setting &lt;code&gt;#define NOZZLE_TO_PROBE_OFFSET { -42, -8, 0 }&lt;/code&gt;. I left the z-offset 0, since I will be using the tuning tool to adjust that and observe the squish. For the x and y, I measured the distance between my probe and the nozzle using a digital caliper.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I adjusted the probe margin from 10 to 15, since I have clips that previously would interfere with the 3DTouch. 15 should give more distance. &lt;code&gt;#define PROBING_MARGIN 15&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I enabled and set MULTIPLE_PROBING to 3. I'm paranoid about the current accuracy, and am willing to see if that improves anything at the expense of a few additional minutes. &lt;code&gt;#define MULTIPLE_PROBING 3&lt;/code&gt;. I think 2 should be fine for general use.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Uncommented &lt;code&gt;#define Z_MIN_PROBE_REPEATABILITY_TEST&lt;/code&gt;. I want to test my 3DTouch and uncommenting allows the use of M48 to test it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Uncommented &lt;code&gt;#define PROBING_FANS_OFF&lt;/code&gt;, &lt;code&gt;#define PROBING_ESTEPPERS_OFF&lt;/code&gt;, &lt;code&gt;#define PROBING_STEPPERS_OFF&lt;/code&gt;, &lt;code&gt;#define DELAY_BEFORE_PROBING 200&lt;/code&gt;. The documentation this may improve probing results. I'm all in.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Uncommented &lt;code&gt;#define NO_MOTION_BEFORE_HOMING&lt;/code&gt; and &lt;code&gt;#define HOME_AFTER_DEACTIVATE&lt;/code&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Uncommented &lt;code&gt;#define AUTO_BED_LEVELING_BILINEAR&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Uncommented &lt;code&gt;#define RESTORE_LEVELING_AFTER_G28&lt;/code&gt;. This is to ensure the mesh is applied even after G28, which disables the mesh otherwise.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ensures that this setting was 10. &lt;code&gt;#define DEFAULT_LEVELING_FADE_HEIGHT 10.0&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I set the following : &lt;code&gt;#define GRID_MAX_POINTS_X 7&lt;/code&gt;. Ensures a 7x7 mesh grid is created. This could be more or less. 49 points is an improvement over Creality's 9, although a bit much. Worthwhile in my case.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Uncommented &lt;code&gt;#define EXTRAPOLATE_BEYOND_GRID&lt;/code&gt;. I was actually wondering if this was causing some of the inconsistent prints near the edge.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Uncommented &lt;code&gt;#define LCD_BED_LEVELING&lt;/code&gt;. This is to unlock more options for ABL in the menu.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Uncommented &lt;code&gt;#define LEVEL_BED_CORNERS&lt;/code&gt;. This should make moving between corners for manual levelling easier.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Uncommented &lt;code&gt;#define LEVEL_CORNERS_USE_PROBE&lt;/code&gt;. This is to achieve exactly what I was doing with G30 in Pronterface. I changed to tolerance with &lt;code&gt;#define LEVEL_CORNERS_PROBE_TOLERANCE 0.03&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Uncommented &lt;code&gt;#define Z_SAFE_HOMING&lt;/code&gt;, which is important for the BLTouch.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Changed my PLA profile according to what I have determined to be best with &lt;code&gt;#define PREHEAT_1_TEMP_HOTEND 200&lt;/code&gt; and &lt;code&gt;#define PREHEAT_1_TEMP_BED 60&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had to comment &lt;code&gt;#define BLTOUCH_SET_5V_MODE&lt;/code&gt; for things to compile. I also had to modify &lt;code&gt;#define LEVEL_CORNERS_INSET_LFRB { 30, 30, 45, 45 }&lt;/code&gt;, due to the margin I set as well as the offset of my touch. Otherwise, the above configuration was fine, in terms of compilation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'll post back with the results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are the results for the M48 3DTouch test. Are these values good?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;div class=&quot;s-table-container&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;table class=&quot;s-table&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;thead&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;th&gt;Measurement&lt;/th&gt;&#xA;&lt;th&gt;Value&lt;/th&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;/thead&gt;&#xA;&lt;tbody&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Mean&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;0.063667&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Min&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;0.061&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Max&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;0.068&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Range&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;0.007&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;STD&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;0.002478&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tbody&gt;&#xA;&lt;/table&gt;&#xA;&lt;/div&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I reduced the speed of the probing in half in order to make the probing more accurate. This was done by changing from &lt;code&gt;#define Z_PROBE_FEEDRATE_FAST (4*60)&lt;/code&gt; to &lt;code&gt;#define Z_PROBE_FEEDRATE_FAST (2*60)&lt;/code&gt;. I also made the mesh grid 8x8 because might as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These are my M48 repeatability results. Interesting to compare to the above table which probed at double the speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;div class=&quot;s-table-container&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;table class=&quot;s-table&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;thead&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;th&gt;Measurement&lt;/th&gt;&#xA;&lt;th&gt;Value&lt;/th&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;/thead&gt;&#xA;&lt;tbody&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Mean&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;0.005500&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Min&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;0.002&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Max&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;0.010&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Range&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;0.008&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;STD&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;0.001908&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tbody&gt;&#xA;&lt;/table&gt;&#xA;&lt;/div&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also changed the filament (brand new). Just as another variable to modify.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The following prints are the result.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The mesh before this print is as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tk0TQ.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tk0TQ.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MJAWB.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MJAWB.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/v9LPr.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/v9LPr.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JVV4Y.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JVV4Y.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MndtV.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MndtV.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IE4eq.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IE4eq.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LY47R.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LY47R.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Levelling the X-Axis Gantry&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As Oscar in the comments has mentioned, I have read some other forum posts that described the cause of uneven lines and similar inconsistencies as what I am noticing, as being due to the X-axis Gantry that moves up and down as not being level.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I used a digital caliper and measured the x axis gantry relative to the frame of the 3D printer. So for example, I put my caliper against the base metal extrusion and then against the x-axis gantry. I did this on both sides.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The side without the Z-Axis lead screw (right side) was above the side with the Z-Axis lead screw (left side) by about 1.7mm. I'm surprised that CHEP and some other build videos never mentioned to check this, but it does seem logical to consider. Making the brackets flush is NOT adequate. When I do make it flush, then one side is higher than the other. The build videos say to make it flush. This will make things OFF.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To adjust this, I took off the gantry, slightly loosened the bolts on both side plates, so that it was stiff enough that it wouldn't move easily, but could make subtle adjustments by twisting it hard enough. I then put the gantry back on the printer, did some measurements and corresponding adjustments. I then carefully threaded the gantry off and tightened the plates.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Currently, my left and right side have a difference of .17mm. I figured I won't get anything better by hand. I'll do another test print tonight. 1.7mm vs .17mm is a reasonable difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="32347" LastEditorUserId="32347" LastEditDate="2021-12-21T00:35:35.413" LastActivityDate="2021-12-21T00:35:35.413" Title="Can't make Ender 3 V1 Level" Tags="|creality-ender-3|bed-leveling|calibration|bltouch|3dtouch|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18588" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-12-18T15:21:13.727" Score="1" ViewCount="440" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have this printer with the 1.1.6 Marlin. The issue with it is when the printer starts printing the position of the hotend is offset&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am using Cura as the slicer. There, I tried this G-code to configure offset&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;G28 ;Home&#xA;G1 Z15.0 F6000 ;Move the platform down 15mm&#xA;;Prime the extruder&#xA;G92 E0&#xA;G1 F200 E3&#xA;G92 X5 Y-10&#xA;M206 X10&#xA;M206 X1 Y1&#xA;G92 E0&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But they are not applied.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What could be the issue?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zkfPL.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Photo of a calibration print with some layers shifted&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zkfPL.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Photo of a calibration print with some layers shifted&quot; title=&quot;Photo of a calibration print with some layers shifted&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="32351" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-12-18T15:59:02.683" LastActivityDate="2023-08-22T13:56:21.020" Title="TronXY X1 Configure bed offsets" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|tronxy-x1|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18589" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18587" CreationDate="2021-12-18T20:04:55.957" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;One red flag:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have also put a straight edge with an Angle Finder Phone App. The bed is quite level. It reads 0, 1, or 2° depending on how I place the level. X-axis gantry has a 1° tilt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&amp;quot;Level&amp;quot; in the sense of bed leveling does not have anything to do with being level relative to the earth's gravity. If your X axis is tilted but your bed isn't, there's your problem. They have to be &lt;strong&gt;square&lt;/strong&gt; to each other, not level with respect to any external reference (you can operate your printer on its side or upside down for all it cares).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you find that, no matter how much you try to tune the bed leveling, it keeps coming out different by the time you print, you probably don't have a problem with your bed but with the X axis gantry and Z motion system it's attached to. If the frame the Z carriages run up and down is not entirely square, or if the wheel tension is not right, the undriven side might not follow correctly with the driven side. This means sometimes positioning at the right (viewed from front) side of the printer will come out too high, and other times too low, depending on a lot of factors, the most obvious one being last direction of Z travel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2021-12-18T20:04:55.957" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18590" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18626" CreationDate="2021-12-18T20:28:30.537" Score="1" ViewCount="7374" Body="&lt;p&gt;Recently, my Ender 3D Pro has been unable to print any large models successfully with PLA as the filament starts to expand inside the Teflon tube, causing a clog after about an hour of printing. I am starting to suspect that the problem is heat creep.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;This occurs with the two brands of PLA filament that I use (3D Fila and Voolt 3D).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The hotend that I am using is the one that comes with the printer, I don't know what it is made out of.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have tried many things to patch this problem:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Try to unclog it with the needle&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Replace nozzle (three times)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check if the Teflon tube is touching the nozzle&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Increase temperature from 200 to 220 °C&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Increase temperature from 200 to 215 °C&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the problem is indeed heat creep, I have plans to control the heat sink temperature with a Peltier and an extra thermometer. Any other ideas are appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="32353" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-12-23T13:13:36.990" LastActivityDate="2021-12-27T20:01:48.937" Title="Nozzle getting clogged all the time" Tags="|troubleshooting|nozzle|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18591" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-12-18T22:22:05.440" Score="-1" ViewCount="862" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Creality CR-10 S4.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What causes a &amp;quot;runaway please reset&amp;quot;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I changed the heating element and the thermistor. When I heat the hot end, the temperature drops down to about 165 °C and I get a thermal runaway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could the fan go bad and it's going too fast?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="32354" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2022-01-20T14:12:45.637" LastActivityDate="2024-02-09T19:04:45.523" Title="Hot end temperature keeps dropping on my Creality CR-10 S4" Tags="|hotend|creality-cr-10|heat-management|thermal-runaway|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18592" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-12-19T06:25:30.280" Score="1" ViewCount="395" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Prusa MK2.5 which runs at 12 V, the Prusa MK3 runs at 24 V.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I noticed that on &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.prusa3d.com/product/stepper-motors-set/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Prusa's webpage&lt;/a&gt;, they list the stepper motors as being compatible with both the MK2 &lt;em&gt;and&lt;/em&gt; the MK3 even though they run at different voltages.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is: are stepper motors typically tuned for specific voltages (like most fans are), or are these stepper motors compatible with &lt;em&gt;both&lt;/em&gt; 12 and 24 V systems?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28932" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2022-01-23T10:16:09.550" LastActivityDate="2022-01-24T12:45:13.153" Title="Will a 12 V Stepper motor work at 24 V?" Tags="|electronics|stepper|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18593" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18592" CreationDate="2021-12-19T14:13:59.123" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Without having the exact model number of the motor to check the data sheet, this can't be answered.  Glancing at the link you supplied, I didn't see either a data sheet or a model number I could use to get a data sheet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Typically stepper motors overheat when they are run at too high of a voltage.  However, the advertised voltage for the motor could be the lowest voltage at which it works.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a real answer, you'd have to look at the manufacturer's datasheet for the motor, which should include minimum and maximum voltages and graphs showing current vs. voltage vs. force graphs, and possibly duty cycle graphs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, in some cases, if you run a motor at a higher voltage than it is rated for, it may produce back EMF that is larger than the motor controller is prepared for, and it could burn out the controller.  However, if the controller is designed for 24v, this is less likely of a problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note also that there are conversion kits, where you place a small board between the controller and the motor that fixes the voltage for the motor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28397" LastActivityDate="2021-12-19T14:13:59.123" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18595" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18588" CreationDate="2021-12-19T14:45:53.483" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;First, you need to make sure the slicer does slice the print object correctly, so beware of the option called &amp;quot;Origin at center&amp;quot; in Ultimaker Cura; this should not be checked for most printers (Delta printers have the center in the middle).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second, please look into &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6375/how-to-center-my-prints-on-the-build-platform-re-calibrate-homing-offset&quot;&gt;How to center my prints on the build platform? (Re-calibrate homing offset)&lt;/a&gt; to center your print to the build plate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2021-12-19T14:45:53.483" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18597" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-12-19T19:23:27.693" Score="1" ViewCount="1607" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to install a BLTouch probe. I have an Ender 3 Pro with 4.2.2 board and I’m trying to connect a BLTouch 3.1 to it. I've bought a generic (but authentic) BLTouch instead of a Creality kit. I've plugged the 3-pin connector into the correct slots on the board (didn't have to rewire, pins seem to be in correct order), but I'm trying to connect the 2-pin connector to the Z-stop connector.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wiring seems to be in order (although I'm not an expert), when I turn on the printer, the BLTouch flashes and deploys twice but when I try to autohome or level or deploy it through options, menu probe autohomes X and Y axis, but when it comes to the Z axis, the probe doesn’t deploy and hotend simply crashes into the bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've followed &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e1oOEzBuorI&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this video&lt;/a&gt; when I was compiling firmware (I tried both the normal Marlin build and the nightly release).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;My configuration files can be found &lt;a href=&quot;https://we.tl/t-cKeaK4Cs06&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;. If someone would be willing to take a look.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;E.g. from my configuration (&lt;code&gt;Configuration.h&lt;/code&gt;) file:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;/**&#xA; * Enable this option for a probe connected to the Z-MIN pin.&#xA; * The probe replaces the Z-MIN endstop and is used for Z homing.&#xA; * (Automatically enables USE_PROBE_FOR_Z_HOMING.)&#xA; */&#xA;//#define Z_MIN_PROBE_USES_Z_MIN_ENDSTOP_PIN&#xA;&#xA;// Force the use of the probe for Z-axis homing&#xA;#define USE_PROBE_FOR_Z_HOMING&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My guess is that I have to force the firmware to somehow recognize the correct signal pin, but then again, I'm out of my depth. I've seen this exact problem mentioned in many places all over the internet but never with a solution attached.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="32028" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-12-20T08:53:24.967" LastActivityDate="2021-12-20T08:53:24.967" Title="Ender 3 board 4.2.2 BLTouch 3.1 crashes into bed during autoleveling" Tags="|creality-ender-3|marlin|bltouch|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18598" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8271" CreationDate="2021-12-19T21:34:39.267" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I solved the same issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had the same problem, just send the G-code &lt;code&gt;M502&lt;/code&gt; to your printer through Cura or whatever it is you use. The reason is that you already did an auto bed leveling and you more than likely send the G-code &lt;code&gt;M500&lt;/code&gt; which saves your auto mesh data so that you don't have to auto home for every print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So &lt;a href=&quot;/q/11483&quot;&gt;&lt;code&gt;M502&lt;/code&gt; restores everything to its factory settings&lt;/a&gt; after you reset don't forget to send &lt;code&gt;M500&lt;/code&gt; to save the default settings or else your printer will be fixed up until the next time you turn it on and you'll have to start all over again hope this helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="32366" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-12-20T08:16:14.450" LastActivityDate="2021-12-20T08:16:14.450" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18599" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18597" CreationDate="2021-12-19T21:37:56.927" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are you using Creality's pre-built software?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In that case, you must connect the two pins to the BLTouch port. Altogether, you would have all five wires connected there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are you using your own Marlin build?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In that case, you must uncomment &lt;code&gt;#define Z_MIN_PROBE_USES_Z_MIN_ENDSTOP_PIN&lt;/code&gt; in order to plug in those two wires into the Z end stop connector. Otherwise, you need to use the BLTouch port as mentioned above.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="32347" LastActivityDate="2021-12-19T21:37:56.927" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18600" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-12-19T22:12:18.153" Score="0" ViewCount="3402" Body="&lt;p&gt;Everything was working perfectly until I installed the BLTouch. After installing it every time I print it makes a loud knocking/clicking sound. Does anyone know how to fix this? I am using a Neptune 2 a clone of an Ender 3 with Marlin firmware.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="32366" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2022-01-01T07:11:36.367" LastActivityDate="2022-01-01T07:11:36.367" Title="Why is my 3D printer making a loud knocking sound after installing BLTouch?" Tags="|marlin|troubleshooting|bltouch|elegoo-neptune-2s|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18601" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18600" CreationDate="2021-12-19T23:00:18.220" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The most probable reason is that your Z offset is too small, the nozzle is too close to the build plate, when molten filament has too much friction to flow out of the nozzle, the back pressure causes the extruder to skip back making loud thumping/knocking sounds. You could increase the Z offset for instance or redefine the bed height with &lt;code&gt;G92&lt;/code&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-12-20T08:18:08.767" LastActivityDate="2021-12-20T08:18:08.767" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18602" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-12-20T07:15:32.273" Score="2" ViewCount="118" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I've seen info about food-safe 3D printed containers, but I haven't seen anything about safety when it comes to containers used for cosmetics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would a cured resin 3D printed jar be safe for holding lotion or cosmetic creams?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know the FDA has rules around containers that come in contact with food, but I haven't seen anything about cosmetics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="32373" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-12-20T08:12:24.277" LastActivityDate="2021-12-20T08:12:24.277" Title="Are 3D printed containers safe for cosmetics?" Tags="|safety|sla|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18603" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-12-20T09:52:05.640" Score="5" ViewCount="2040" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd like to print a cylinder, 50 mm diameter, 200 mm long, with 1.5 mm diameter holes tightly fit like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/i11dN.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;3D rendering of a cylinder with holes&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/i11dN.png&quot; alt=&quot;3D rendering of a cylinder with holes&quot; title=&quot;3D rendering of a cylinder with holes&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The holes go all the way through from top to bottom.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am using a Prusa i3 MK3S. With 0.1 mm detail and 20 % infill, printing one cylinder is going to take 5 days and 5 hours. I need at least five cylinders.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is the above setting appropriate for this job?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is there any way I can reduce the printing time?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18840" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-12-21T11:48:23.300" LastActivityDate="2023-01-16T14:05:47.010" Title="How to print a cylinder with hundreds of small holes?" Tags="|prusa-i3|speed|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18604" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18605" CreationDate="2021-12-20T10:40:50.530" Score="18" ViewCount="2345" Body="&lt;p&gt;the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:763622&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;3D Benchy&lt;/a&gt; is everywhere. It is one of &lt;strong&gt;the&lt;/strong&gt; top test prints if you look away from a simple cube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But what makes the Benchy a good test print at all? It does have almost no critical dimensions that would be measurable to see if the printer is calibrated correctly!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastActivityDate="2022-05-07T22:44:15.693" Title="Why is a 3D Benchy considered a good test print for FDM printers?" Tags="|calibration|knowledgebase|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18605" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18604" CreationDate="2021-12-20T10:40:50.530" Score="17" Body="&lt;h2&gt;the 3D Benchy isn't a specific calibration test&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With the Benchy you don't see if your printer is calibrated in any axis, but it is a general use-case test for a model that can show you many of the issues you might face in a normal print. For all intents and purposes, it is more a general Benchmark item than a specific calibration test like a cube, stringing test, or temperature tower, where you go through iterations of a profile to dial in settings and printer properties.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;the 3D Benchy is a Benchmark for printer and settings&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most of the printing issues that can be seen on a Benchy are related to the print settings, though some are also related to the physical properties.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Overhangs&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bow of the Benchy has a shape that is very conducive to seeing how much the printer can handle overhangs due to proper cooling and settings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The arches in the sides of the cabin, as well as the back window, have a rather challenging overhang pattern (the extension needs to be larger and larger), and the front of the Benchy has a short bridge, which shows if cooling is happening properly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The upper edge of the hull also is a little overhang, which shows how well small oversteps can be printed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Small Diameter&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The funnel of the Benchy is of sufficient small crossection, that with bad settings it can result in printing layers upon one another too fast, which can result in bulging, misinformation, or totally blobing that area.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Sharp corners&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The front and back corners are rather sharp and can show the effects of ringing on the area next to them due to bad acceleration settings&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastActivityDate="2021-12-20T10:40:50.530" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18606" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18603" CreationDate="2021-12-20T11:00:01.503" Score="6" Body="&lt;h1&gt;That's a hell of a print!&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You are printing a model that has a highly complex structure there, with about 650ish holes, assuming there is space for about 2 perimeters between each hole.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gcrSm.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gcrSmm.png&quot; alt=&quot;imitated design of a cylinder with ca 650 thin holes&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Taking my standard 0.3 mm layer height and 0.4 mm nozzle using a 0.45 mm wide line, I sliced a 10mm high slice of the model for a first estimate of the expected print time - and came out with 2:21 hours. That means the expected print time with 0.3 mm layer height is in the area of 47 hours - or just about 2 days.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a result, 5 days and 5 hours are in the order I'd expect from a 0.1 mm layer height print for the same nozzle, in fact, your settings seem to have a faster print speed than I do work with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In general, I don't think this model is good for FDM printing at all, due to many non-fully formed lines inside the model (yellow) and the red perimeters being a very dense pattern.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/l0oH6.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/l0oH6m.png&quot; alt=&quot;Sliced cross-section: in yellow: many extra thin lines!&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Solutions?&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Print faster&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might get a faster speed with a high-flow solution, for example, using a long melt zone (volcano-style) or an even higher flow core-heating 3DSolex nozzle. The latter originally only comes in 0.6 mm and up, also mandating fewer holes, but in late 2021 CHT nozzles in 0.4 mm came to the market. This could drop print time some, but it'd still be a several days print job.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Reduced pattern&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Besides increasing layer height to drop printing time by the same factor, reducing the number of holes and as a result, spacing them further apart not only can increase the print speed but also make the print form more reliable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another alternative would be to alter the pattern from a circle to a hexagonal pattern: by using hexagons, the resulting pattern does not contain thin walls and might print much faster - depending on hole size, you might experience a drop by a factor of 2!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Bk583.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Bk583m.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Jjr3P.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Jjr3Pm.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Printed differently&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Going from FDM printing to a system such as SLS might be faster and more reliable while SLA/DLP would make this print not only fast and reliable but also trivial - if one can get a 200 mm high SLA/DLP printer, all three models should be able to be printed in one go at the same time!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="4625" LastEditDate="2023-01-16T14:05:47.010" LastActivityDate="2023-01-16T14:05:47.010" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18607" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18604" CreationDate="2021-12-20T11:23:10.367" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Benchy is cute.  That goes a long way in attracting attention.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The benchy is one of the earlier STLs that was freely available to download, dating from April 2015, and was released under the Creative Commons Sharealike licence, which clearly states the requirements and limitations/requirements.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Curiously, a printed Benchy can float in still water, provided no print problems crop up.  It will also sit nicely on a shelf, with no risk of rolling off and makes a nice ornament.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Links:&lt;br&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/3DBenchy&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/3DBenchy&lt;/a&gt; and one of the earliest download sites &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:763622&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:763622&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've had my printer for a year now, and have never printed a benchy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12956" LastEditorUserId="12956" LastEditDate="2022-05-07T22:44:15.693" LastActivityDate="2022-05-07T22:44:15.693" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18608" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18603" CreationDate="2021-12-20T11:50:30.673" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Holes, circles, and curves are slow to print, and get slower as the number of wall segments increase.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ideally you'd use square holes, but hexagonal-sided ones would be a fair compromise too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your slicer should be able to give a breakdown on the times for each kind of line in the part.  Check and see how much of the time is spent on &amp;quot;moves&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a reason for using all these little holes?  Fewer, larger holes will provide better airflow and require less printing, up to the ultimate of one single large hole, where you're essentially printing a pipe/tube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do you need the holes to go right-through?  Printing a big &amp;quot;cup&amp;quot; with holes across the floor, and separately a &amp;quot;lid&amp;quot;  then gluing them together would be quicker and you have one large hole in the middle.  If this idea works, you might prefer to just buy plastic pipe of a suitable size, and print only endcaps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally, if you're printing 5 cylinders because you need a metre total length, then printing two endcaps for a 1 metre piece of plastic PVC pipe should take a couple of hours at most.   And it will save you a lot of filament.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12956" LastActivityDate="2021-12-20T11:50:30.673" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18609" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18587" CreationDate="2021-12-20T23:32:30.860" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You need to check the X gantry, the Ender design is flawed by using a single Z screw on one side. Please check the rollers and check the belt tension. All the leveling graphs show that the bed is lower on the right side (or the gantry higher), it could be that the rollers on the right post (when facing the printer) are causing the right side to be lower.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2021-12-20T23:32:30.860" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18610" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-12-21T05:26:24.230" Score="3" ViewCount="1354" Body="&lt;p&gt;I struggle with paper levelling and find it to be excessively coarse and unspecific. I bought a 3DTouch, but I still need to make the bed generally level using the knobs. Otherwise, the print will be uneven.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there some method that would allow me to probe an area with the BLTouch, see the value, adjust the knob, and repeat? And do this at each corner?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I thought the G30 command in Marlin would achieve this, but I consistently get slanted prints when using G30 at each corner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I thought this would be a very good approach, since the BLTouch is directly on the carriage, and I would be able see the height of each corner to a hundredth of a milimeter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried searching for this online, but I couldn't find specific resources and what I am proposing seems to be very rare or doesn't even exist.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a way I can use my BLTouch to assist with manually adjusting the knobs of my 3D printer bed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="32347" LastActivityDate="2023-12-29T00:28:45.260" Title="Using the BLTouch to assist with manual bed levelling?" Tags="|creality-ender-3|marlin|bed-leveling|calibration|bltouch|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18611" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18710" CreationDate="2021-12-21T05:47:16.610" Score="0" ViewCount="167" Body="&lt;p&gt;Anyone else seeing this issue? Anyone know a solution?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While editing a part on TinkerCad.com (&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.tinkercad.com/things/hrsKxOk1Xc7&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this part&lt;/a&gt;, to be specific), I click the &amp;quot;Send To&amp;quot; button in the top-right --&amp;gt; click Thingiverse --&amp;gt; I see this screen: &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PsCJO.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PsCJO.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I then click on &amp;quot;Authorize&amp;quot;. I'm already signed into Thingiverse, so I click &amp;quot;AGREE &amp;amp; AUTHORIZE APP&amp;quot; --&amp;gt; and I get this error window:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OCRGW.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OCRGW.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It states:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There was a problem authenticating you with Thingiverse&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Close this window and return to Tinkercad.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Privacy settings   |&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Privacy/Cookies&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyone know what could be the issue? I've tried in Google Chrome, on Firefox, in Chrome with incognito mode, and even with a &lt;strong&gt;2nd pair of separate TinkerCad and Thingiverse accounts!&lt;/strong&gt; I get the same result each and every time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: I used the Google sign-in for the Thingiverse account. Maybe I need to use the independent account login?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Side note: this question is &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/help/on-topic&quot;&gt;on-topic&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Websites (could come under Software and/or Tools)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Issues with web based tools   &amp;lt;=== this one is my question&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;I just sent in some support request tickets to both sites&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Update 22 Dec. 2021:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I posted a help support ticket to both TinkerCad &lt;a href=&quot;https://tinkercad.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/requests/new&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; (choose &amp;quot;Tinkercad Account&amp;quot; from the &amp;quot;Please choose from the options below&amp;quot; dropdown menu) and to Thingiverse &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/support#&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; (click link --&amp;gt; choose &amp;quot;Other&amp;quot; from dropdown menu for &amp;quot;What does your support request pertain to?&amp;quot;). I'll add an answer here if I get any useful response or solution from either of them. My support tickets on each site essentially contained the following information:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Subject:&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can't &amp;quot;Send To&amp;quot; Thingiverse from Tinkercad.com&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Body:&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please see a full description of my problem here: &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/18611/cant-send-to-thingiverse-from-tinkercad-com&quot;&gt;Can&amp;#39;t &amp;quot;Send To&amp;quot; Thingiverse from Tinkercad.com&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Essentially, no matter what I do I get into an infinite loop of trying to click the &amp;quot;Send to&amp;quot; button to send a model to Thingiverse, and it repeatedly fails with the error shown in the attachment. Again, see the full description at the link above.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;OS:&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Linux Ubuntu 20.04&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Browser:&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Chrome Version 96.0.4664.110 (Official Build) (64-bit)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="32117" LastEditorUserId="32117" LastEditDate="2021-12-22T19:42:59.940" LastActivityDate="2022-01-09T23:28:39.667" Title="Can't &quot;Send To&quot; Thingiverse from Tinkercad.com" Tags="|tinkercad|thingiverse|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18612" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18611" CreationDate="2021-12-21T05:59:37.057" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The best solution for the problem is to download your Tinkercad designs and upload them to Thingiverse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some people had the same issue and as far as I know, the Tinkercad people are not going to solve it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30871" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-12-21T14:03:26.947" LastActivityDate="2021-12-21T14:03:26.947" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18613" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18591" CreationDate="2021-12-21T06:10:22.027" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There could be multiple reasons for the issue, but the most common issue is the temperature sensor. We can test it:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Disconnect the hot end from the control board and place the sensor on a warm plate and after some time place a candle closer to your sensor, with a 5 mm gap. If your board is able to display the variable temperature, then we can say the temperature sensor is fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or if you're good with electronics and programming, use Arduino/ATtiny/Arm controller to measure temperature using the temp sensor of your 3D printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The next issue could be some component in your control board, it happened with my printer, in my case, resistor and two capacitors were at fault.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30871" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-12-21T14:04:56.580" LastActivityDate="2021-12-21T14:04:56.580" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18614" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-12-21T07:28:43.803" Score="2" ViewCount="1742" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.tinkercad.com/things/hrsKxOk1Xc7&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this model&lt;/a&gt;, for instance, made in &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.TinkerCad.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;www.TinkerCad.com&lt;/a&gt;. It is made up of a bunch of grouped objects. I'd like to be able to back it up by saving it locally, then reimport it and ungroup those objects on the &lt;em&gt;imported&lt;/em&gt; model. Is there any way to do this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Note: my motivation is permanent backup of my important models. &lt;a href=&quot;https://knowledge.autodesk.com/search-result/caas/sfdcarticles/sfdcarticles/Tinkercad-inactive-social-account-deletion.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;TinkerCad deleted a few million accounts in May 2021&lt;/a&gt; it looks like).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I export a model from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.TinkerCad.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;www.TinkerCad.com&lt;/a&gt; I get these options: &lt;code&gt;.obj&lt;/code&gt;, &lt;code&gt;.stl&lt;/code&gt;, &lt;code&gt;.glb&lt;/code&gt;.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hXVJ7.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hXVJ7.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No matter which I choose for export, if I reimport what I exported, it is now one solid piece and it appears I cannot ungroup its elements to edit them anymore.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, if someone else opens up my .obj file in some other tool, like Fusion360 or Solidworks (neither of which I can use right now since I'm on Linux and don't have a license for Solidworks), will they be able to edit the individual components of my model like I did in TinkerCad to build it in the first place? (I think this is NOT possible on .stls, no?--but I don't know about .obj files).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="32117" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2021-12-21T08:30:08.937" LastActivityDate="2021-12-21T08:30:08.937" Title="Is it possible to export a model from TinkerCad.com, reimport it, and edit it again as a grouped collection of individual parts?" Tags="|file-formats|tinkercad|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18615" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18614" CreationDate="2021-12-21T08:29:31.563" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;STL and OBJ are formats that define a surface through trigons and a waveform respectively - to make the export work, TinkerCad runs a boolean union operation first. Without this, it would run into the problem of having bad surface geometry - a flaw that happens still when the boolean joining fails properly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;GLB is a container for gITF files and can store file hierarchies as well as cameras and animations. However, even if the structure would allow having all the bodies, TinkerCad does run a boolean union before it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a result, you'd have to physically separate parts of the item that are not to be joined from one another as in an explosion diagram. That way the boolean union would result in each part being separated and exporting as separate shells.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Separating Shells into models&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have an item from TinkerCad that has multiple separate shells, you can open the STL or OBJ in a program like Meshmixer and run a Separate Shells operation. Then you can export the parts from that program as separate files that can be imported into other CAD or 3D-Design software - or sliced directly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Re-CADing the models&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have your parts exported and separated, it would be very beneficial to properly CAD them in a program that allows STEP files. For this you'd simply import them into a program and use the 3D Model from TinkerCad as a model to design around.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fusion360 does allow to import STL and OBJ as a mesh, though isn't the best to edit it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;FreeCAD, an open-source alternative, does allow the import of STL and OBJ too and has a Linux distribution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastActivityDate="2021-12-21T08:29:31.563" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18617" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-12-21T15:58:22.707" Score="0" ViewCount="228" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to install BLTouch on my Ender 3 Pro but I've been pulling the cables in and out so many times that crimp pins (I think that is what they are called, I mean the little metal bits crumpled on the end of the wire) are now almost completely loose and when I try to put the cable into the socket two of the cables are pushed out by pins in the board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've got a couple of uncrumpled header pins but I don't know how to bend them so that they clamp wires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've attached the part similar to what I have (I don't have a good enough phone to snap a photo of the original part I have).&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3OrvQ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Plastic connectors and its pins&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3OrvQ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Plastic connectors and its pins&quot; title=&quot;Plastic connectors and its pins&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="32028" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-12-21T17:57:02.543" LastActivityDate="2021-12-22T14:46:32.617" Title="Wires in BLTouch connector are loose, how to fold a crumpled pin" Tags="|bltouch|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18618" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-12-22T00:13:18.170" Score="1" ViewCount="416" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to print ABS on Ender 3 V2 so I turned off the part cooling fan.&#xA;In doing so the electronics fan stopped, apparently they are connected and I don't want to mess with the wiring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it safe to run the printer with the electronics cooling fan off for long hours?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="32399" LastEditorUserId="12956" LastEditDate="2021-12-22T21:19:57.827" LastActivityDate="2021-12-22T21:19:57.827" Title="Printing ABS on Ender 3 V2, and stopping part cooling fan?" Tags="|creality-ender-3|abs|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18619" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-12-22T01:55:03.193" Score="5" ViewCount="419" Body="&lt;p&gt;It seems that a Bowden extruder is the most used in all cheap 3D printers by far compared to Direct Drive that is very rare under 500 USD machines. But I haven't understood the reason, since in terms of hardware a direct drive doesn't seem to have any impact on price more than Bowden (correct me if I'm wrong).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20123" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-12-22T02:33:23.423" LastActivityDate="2021-12-24T16:11:33.243" Title="Why do nearly all cheap 3D printers have a Bowden extruder?" Tags="|extruder|extruder-driver|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18620" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18619" CreationDate="2021-12-22T02:41:58.240" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;As I understand it, there's really no good reason for this except &amp;quot;momentum&amp;quot;. At some point in the not too distant past, a Bowden extruder was seen as an &amp;quot;upgrade&amp;quot; over direct drive, which required a bulky toolhead that was seen as limiting speeds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(This perception was at best accurate only for delta and CoreXY machines at the time even, I think. As it turned out, Bowden doesn't let you print faster, at least not at any quality, because the nonlinear/hysteresis effects of the Bowden tube on the actual amount of material extruded can't fully be compensated with linear advance/pressure advance once you reach moderately high speeds. You can overcome this with the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cF33iXlFqVs&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Nitram Bowden&lt;/a&gt; but good luck finding a cheap 3D printer manufacturer willing to put in that kind of custom part!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway, all the cheap printer manufacturers jumped on Bowden as a feature, and they're slow to develop any new designs rather than just making incremental improvements and production cost optimizations to existing ones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since then, direct drive designs have improved greatly, and the mass of the good ones has gotten so low that it's hardly a consideration anymore except on the most extreme agility-seeking printers (designs attempting 50k-300k acceleration). Everything should be direct drive, especially since it makes things so much easier for beginners (no difficult-to-load tube, broken filament in tube, loose fittings messing up retraction, etc.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Teaching Tech has a video, oddly named &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ybTbuUBy2-s&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Why direct drive is not automatically better than bowden tube&lt;/a&gt;, where he basically concludes that it is actually better, and goes over some of the history I've touched on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastEditorUserId="11157" LastEditDate="2021-12-22T15:42:17.223" LastActivityDate="2021-12-22T15:42:17.223" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18621" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18617" CreationDate="2021-12-22T14:46:32.617" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You need a crimping tool like this so that the pins will be crimped correctly to fix in the sockets and plugs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TNWEg.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TNWEg.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15075" LastActivityDate="2021-12-22T14:46:32.617" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18622" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2021-12-23T01:07:44.390" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The ToyBox 3D printer and its software is located here: &lt;a href=&quot;https://toybox.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://toybox.com/&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="32117" LastEditorUserId="32117" LastEditDate="2021-12-23T13:11:09.673" LastActivityDate="2021-12-23T13:11:09.673" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18623" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2021-12-23T01:07:44.390" Score="0" Body="For any issues pertaining specifically to the ToyBox brand 3D printer or its associated software." OwnerUserId="32117" LastEditorUserId="32117" LastEditDate="2021-12-23T13:11:21.597" LastActivityDate="2021-12-23T13:11:21.597" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18624" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18207" CreationDate="2021-12-23T07:06:36.713" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The problem was solved after the supplier replaced the motherboard.&#xA;However after that I had to try various versions of firmware as different ones had different behavior to the printer.&#xA;If you face a similar situation be aware of the cabling and connections when changing the motherboard. You may have to do the plugins twice to be sure that they are correctly attached.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31470" LastActivityDate="2021-12-23T07:06:36.713" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18625" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18590" CreationDate="2021-12-23T18:19:37.317" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;This sounds like heat creep may be the problem. For preventing heat creep to occur you should do the opposite, print at lower temperature, tweak retraction length and increase cooling of the cold end.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A Peltier element is not very effective cooler, use a bigger fan, or a fan with a higher flow rate. Note that the Peltier element required a large cooling body and a fan as well, so this adds a lot of weight to and limits space of the hotend. You should not go there, it has been tried before.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2021-12-23T18:19:37.317" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18626" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18590" CreationDate="2021-12-23T23:35:51.887" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since you mentioned &amp;quot;Check if the Teflon tube is touching the nozzle&amp;quot;, it sounds like you've disassembled the tube from the couplings and put it back together. This is error-prone and in my experience the main/only likely cause of clogging in Creality hotends. Heat creep is unlikely unless you're operating in a very high ambient temperature or have a failing/failed fan.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The tube can't just be &amp;quot;touching&amp;quot; the nozzle. It needs to be compressed against it. There are various ways to do this, but what usually worked best for me (before I moved to a different setup) was to back the coupler out of the heat sink by at least 1-2 full turns, press the tube all the way in against the nozzle, then tighten the coupler back down to compress the end of the tube against the nozzle mating surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The end of the tube also needs to be clean cut, straight, and undamaged. If it's charred, bent, gnarled, whatever, cut it straight with a razor blade while holding it in a jig to make sure the cut is perpendicular. You can find several such jigs (PTFE tube cutting tools) on Thingiverse or make your own or buy one. I like to also take the razor blade and chamfer the outside of the tube end ever so slightly before inserting it. I do this by hand, but I've seen videos of it being done with a jig that looks something like a pencil sharpener, which would probably be the best way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastEditorUserId="11157" LastEditDate="2021-12-27T20:01:48.937" LastActivityDate="2021-12-27T20:01:48.937" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18628" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18619" CreationDate="2021-12-24T16:11:33.243" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Using a bowden extruder allows the manufacturer to place heavy components lower down on the printer frame. This lowers the center of gravity and reduces the amount of movement that the hot end creates when it tracks across the bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This allows the hot end to move\print faster without having to reinforce the printer's frame or to include higher quality belts\motors or dampeners.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="29097" LastActivityDate="2021-12-24T16:11:33.243" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18629" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18686" CreationDate="2021-12-24T17:07:13.920" Score="2" ViewCount="548" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 3018 Pro CNC and being trying cutting a contour of a simple circular part:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/w3mDe.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Screenshot of Fusion 360 model and route&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/w3mDe.png&quot; alt=&quot;Screenshot of Fusion 360 model and route&quot; title=&quot;Screenshot of Fusion 360 model and route&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;G-code:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;(TestKnobContour)&#xA;(T1  D=1 CR=0 - ZMIN=-3 - flat end mill)&#xA;G90 G94&#xA;G17&#xA;G21&#xA;G90    &#xA;(2D Contour1)&#xA;Z15&#xA;S5000 M3&#xA;G54&#xA;G0 X10.8 Y0.1&#xA;Z15&#xA;G1 Z5 F10.0&#xA;Z1 F10.0&#xA;Z-2.9&#xA;X10.792 Z-2.938 F10.0&#xA;X10.771 Z-2.971&#xA;X10.738 Z-2.992&#xA;X10.7 Z-3&#xA;X10.6&#xA;X10.562 Y0.092&#xA;X10.529 Y0.071&#xA;X10.508 Y0.038&#xA;X10.5 Y0&#xA;G2 X9.851 Y-3.634 I-10.5 J0&#xA;G1 Z-2.75&#xA;G2 X8.983 Y-5.436 I-9.851 J3.634&#xA;G1 Z-3 F10.0&#xA;G2 X3.301 Y-9.968 I-8.983 J5.436 F10.0&#xA;G1 Z-2.75&#xA;G2 X1.351 Y-10.413 I-3.301 J9.968&#xA;G1 Z-3 F10.0&#xA;G2 X-5.735 Y-8.795 I-1.351 J10.413 F10.0&#xA;G1 Z-2.75&#xA;G2 X-7.299 Y-7.548 I5.735 J8.795&#xA;G1 Z-3 F10.0&#xA;G2 X-10.452 Y-1 I7.299 J7.548 F10.0&#xA;G1 Z-2.75&#xA;G2 X-10.452 Y1 I10.452 J1&#xA;G1 Z-3 F10.0&#xA;G2 X-7.299 Y7.548 I10.452 J-1 F10.0&#xA;G1 Z-2.75&#xA;G2 X-5.735 Y8.795 I7.299 J-7.548&#xA;G1 Z-3 F10.0&#xA;G2 X1.351 Y10.413 I5.735 J-8.795 F10.0&#xA;G1 Z-2.75&#xA;G2 X3.301 Y9.968 I-1.351 J-10.413&#xA;G1 Z-3 F10.0&#xA;G2 X8.983 Y5.436 I-3.301 J-9.968 F10.0&#xA;G1 Z-2.75&#xA;G2 X9.851 Y3.634 I-8.983 J-5.436&#xA;G1 Z-3 F10.0&#xA;G2 X10.5 Y0 I-9.851 J-3.634 F10.0&#xA;G1 X10.508 Y-0.038&#xA;X10.529 Y-0.071&#xA;X10.562 Y-0.092&#xA;X10.6 Y-0.1&#xA;X10.7&#xA;X10.738 Z-2.992&#xA;X10.771 Z-2.971&#xA;X10.792 Z-2.938&#xA;X10.8 Z-2.9&#xA;G0 Z15&#xA;M5&#xA;X0 Y0 Z0&#xA;M30&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Candle shows that everything is fine for this G-code:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jZ4p3.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Screenshot of Candle software&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jZ4p3.png&quot; alt=&quot;Screenshot of Candle software&quot; title=&quot;Screenshot of Candle software&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I am getting weird results (see top right):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/76m5S.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Photo of milled circles with irregularities&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/76m5S.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Photo of milled circles with irregularities&quot; title=&quot;Photo of milled circles with irregularities&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What can I do for troubleshooting?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8008" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-12-24T18:40:53.437" LastActivityDate="2022-01-04T15:25:30.180" Title="Issue milling a circular contour with CNC – 3018 Pro" Tags="|g-code|cnc|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="13" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18631" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-12-25T07:20:46.650" Score="0" ViewCount="871" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just got an Ender 3 pro printer and set it up. I have levelled my bed and set the coordinates to (0, 0, 0) with the nozzle paper’s thickness away from the bed. When I started printing the default test dog, the machine moves to (0, 0, 5) which lifted the nozzle up and filament started oozing out without touching the bed. I also tried my own square design and the same happens. Is there anyway to not make it go up? I cannot make my bed go any higher.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="32431" LastEditorUserId="32431" LastEditDate="2021-12-26T05:47:27.010" LastActivityDate="2021-12-26T05:47:27.010" Title="Printing above, not onto the bed" Tags="|creality-ender-3|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18632" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14902" CreationDate="2021-12-25T12:55:55.137" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This issue is related to the way Creality has defined the origin of the printer. Usually, the origin of the printer is at the front left when facing the printer. Creality has chosen to set the origin in their default Creality configuration at the back right.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Vanilla Marlin (Ender 5 configuration) has the origin at the front left. When facing the printer this makes more sense. Do note that there are printers with the origin in the middle and in the back right location, but these are outnumbered by far in preference of the front left location.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This means that when you switch boards you need to carefully look at the settings of the endstops and the definitions of the being min or max endstops and inverting or not of the steppers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2021-12-25T12:55:55.137" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18633" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13305" CreationDate="2021-12-25T13:23:08.450" Score="0" Body="&lt;h2&gt;printed PLA will not behave like cloth.&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hard PLA can not behave like cloth, and even a 0.1 mm sheet of PLA will behave like a plastic sheet, not like cloth. In itself, it will always be a hard material.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;printed PLA can be combined with fabric&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Printing a hard plastic onto a thin mesh of fabric can create a compound material. For example, this has been used to create &amp;quot;scales&amp;quot; that are embedded on the fabric, for example with an &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2948315&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;octagon setup&lt;/a&gt;. These materials have limited bending areas and can, if designed well and made from small scales, almost fall similar to a stiff normal fabric, or have totally different behavior.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Only the printed on fabric will be able to absorb moisture, a hard lip printed onto the material will be able to push liquids and solids. If instead of PLA a TPE was used, the lip would deform to have contact and act as a wiper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With clever design, this can even be used to imitate &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2755451&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;fantastical scales&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Printed PLA scales can imitate cloth&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.jpl.nasa.gov/news/space-fabric-links-fashion-and-engineering&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;NASA&lt;/a&gt; worked on a 3D printed scale mail, which offers a somewhat solid surface when under no extra load but shows special movement patterns when exposed to forces. For example, a curtain of these printed scales could, under force, always push itself to the left side and assume a shape that funnels an airstream to the right. These 3D printed scales are at times referred to as &amp;quot;printed chainmail&amp;quot; or &amp;quot;printed fabric&amp;quot;, depending on how they fall and how large the individual elements are.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The result of inquiries into these print in place solutions range from designs that use techniques used in &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:399474&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;classic flexible jewelry band designs&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2867241&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;European 4:1 Chainmail patterns&lt;/a&gt; that fall exactly like their metal counterparts over designs inspired by the NASA method that &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3095799&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;almost behave like a leather&lt;/a&gt; in a limited movement range to more exotic ones that &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2942351&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;imitate in one axis the movement of tank threads while being a little stiffer in the other&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;There is spun PLA cloth...&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/13312/8884&quot;&gt;PLA can be spun into yarn&lt;/a&gt; in a similar process to the making of other polymer-based yarns. The resulting thread is 0.01 mm and thinner and then can be weaved using traditional methods. In this thickness, it behaves exactly like cloth, but that is an order of magnitude thinner than the thinnest nozzle available on the commercial market (0.1 mm) and unprintable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2021-12-25T14:00:38.283" LastActivityDate="2021-12-25T14:00:38.283" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18634" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-12-25T16:02:05.993" Score="3" ViewCount="2733" Body="&lt;p&gt;Every time I try melting a scrap piece of plastic it ends up turning brown, smelling, and smoking before even melting down completely. My entire home ends up filled with cancerous fumes and there's no way I'm baking any food in my oven ever again. I've tried different types of Nylon, ASA, and PLA and all of them turned brown before properly melting. I placed the scraps inside a glass jar inside an oven and tried both slowly increasing the temperature, and placing it into the preheated oven.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Absolutely disgusting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TaFHz.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Glass jar with burnt melted plastic&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TaFHz.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Glass jar with burnt melted plastic&quot; title=&quot;Glass jar with burnt melted plastic&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0QNUQ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Baking pan with burnt melted plastic&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0QNUQ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Baking pan with burnt melted plastic&quot; title=&quot;Baking pan with burnt melted plastic&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would like to melt it into blocks or cylinders or planes and further process it with my lathe, my CNC mill, bandsaw... whatever, like this guy: &lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/G-HWrDMr0ks?start=0&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30842" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-12-25T16:22:48.413" LastActivityDate="2021-12-26T09:53:50.853" Title="Melting 3D printed scraps: Burns up" Tags="|recycling|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18635" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15985" CreationDate="2021-12-25T16:09:43.917" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have the same issue but whilst none of these worked for me they have worked for other people:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Make sure the name of the G-code file begins with a letter or number&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Make sure the G-code is not in a subfolder&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Make sure the name of the G-code file is less than or equal to 8 characters long&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After I attempted all of these, reinserting the SD card multiple times worked but I don't know what fixed it or if it was just I had been putting it in wrong though I didn't try anything different.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="32336" LastEditorUserId="32336" LastEditDate="2021-12-31T17:00:45.273" LastActivityDate="2021-12-31T17:00:45.273" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18636" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-12-25T16:59:31.220" Score="0" ViewCount="47" Body="&lt;p&gt;I own a Qidi X-Pro that uses a dual extruder.  I just spent the last 45 minutes trying to print, over and over, a simple model I had printed before.  I'm using ABS with a glue stick.  The ABS is fed through the left extruder while PLA is fed through the right.  I had previously printed a different model and had finished it.  I was now attempting to print a different model with the left extruder and ABS.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The ABS print would almost fail immediately with the filament catching on other parts of the model.  Then, I realized that a small piece of PLA was still exposed on the right extruder and it would catch the model as I was printing with ABS.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a recommended way to ensure that this does not happen in the future?  What nozzle 'clean up', if any, should I perform after printing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23798" LastEditorUserId="23798" LastEditDate="2021-12-26T16:36:51.570" LastActivityDate="2021-12-26T16:36:51.570" Title="Best practice: For ensuring a good print with dual extruder machine" Tags="|filament|extruder|qidi-x-pro|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18637" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18634" CreationDate="2021-12-26T01:20:50.393" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Plastic in general and 3d printer plastic specifically doesn't really melt so much as get softer in a range of temperatures (in a state refered to as &amp;quot;plastic&amp;quot; rather than liquid).  Below that range, it is a solid.  Above that range, it decomposes and ultimately burns.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to make a solid block, you need to not only heat it to a specific temperature (which varies by plastic formulation), but also press it into a new shape.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28397" LastActivityDate="2021-12-26T01:20:50.393" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18638" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18634" CreationDate="2021-12-26T01:49:06.963" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your kitchen oven is for food.  I'd strongly recommend using a different heating device for this.  Your oven probably has oils in it that are contaminating the plastic, and the plastic will make your later cooked-food contaminated.  I suggest cleaning your oven before cooking food, too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally I've had good luck &lt;strong&gt;softening&lt;/strong&gt; PLA with a hot air gun, essentially a workshop version of a hairdryer.  I've not tried forming it into shapes though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've been putting all my offcuts, bad prints, brims etc into a 2L icecream tub, and when its full of spidery bits, a 20 second heat with hot air shrivels it all down to 1/4 of the volume.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However I've not tried to make use of the resulting lump for anything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12956" LastActivityDate="2021-12-26T01:49:06.963" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18639" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18699" CreationDate="2021-12-26T06:33:02.953" Score="2" ViewCount="642" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently got a KP3S Kingroon 3D printer and have been trying to set it up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After a couple of test prints, the Y-axis seems to only move in one direction. At first, I thought it was a motor issue, but when I go into the manual move directions for the Y-axis it seems that both inputs lead to the motor spinning in the same direction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We have ruled out endstops as a possible issue. I think it might be a hardware issue but lack the skills to confirm the exact issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Send:17:40:57.724: @moveRel Y10.00  &#xA;Send:17:40:57.724: N31 G1 Y10.00 F6000  &#xA;Send:17:40:57.728: @updatePrinterState  &#xA;Send:17:41:00.824: @moveRel Y-10.00  &#xA;Send:17:41:00.824: N35 G1 Y0.00 F6000  &#xA;Send:17:41:00.828: @updatePrinterState  &#xA;Send:17:41:07.445: @moveRel Y10.00  &#xA;Send:17:41:07.445: N43 G1 Y10.00 F6000  &#xA;Send:17:41:07.449: @updatePrinterState  &#xA;Send:17:41:09.482: @moveRel Y-10.00  &#xA;Send:17:41:09.482: N46 G1 Y0.00 F6000  &#xA;Send:17:41:09.486: @updatePrinterState   &#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even though it states that it is increasing and decreasing by 10 it only decreases by 10.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have updated the firmware to Marlin.  I tested switching X and Y inputs and believe the breakdown occurs at the Y input signal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;attached is a picture of the mother board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nhmP2.gif&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nhmP2.gif&quot; alt=&quot;picture of mother board&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am unsure of how to best fix this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="32439" LastEditorUserId="32439" LastEditDate="2022-01-06T15:15:19.207" LastActivityDate="2022-01-10T12:40:55.743" Title="Y-axis on KP3S Kingroon only moves in one direction" Tags="|y-axis|hardware|linear-motion|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18640" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18639" CreationDate="2021-12-26T08:04:43.667" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The question body has changed to rule out broken endstops. As a generic answer for steppers only going into a single direction, if an axis of a 3D printer only moves in one direction it usually implies that the end stop of that axis is triggered. If triggered, the firmware doesn’t allow the stepper to move to the direction of the end stop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check the end stop lever and cables. Optionally connect a USB cable and send the G-code &lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#M119:_Get_Endstop_Status&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;code&gt;M119&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/a&gt; over a &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10573/what-is-a-printer-console-terminal&quot;&gt;terminal&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the endstops are functioning correctly (reporting “open” or “triggered” corresponding to the state of the endstop), a Google search on the World Wide Web shows that people that had these exact problems had issues with the controller board, replacing the board helped their issue. If this is a recent purchase it is advised to contact the seller for support rather than fiddling with the board or the firmware.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In case the board has a spare unused stepper driver (not very unlikely if you have &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.nl/url?sa=t&amp;amp;rct=j&amp;amp;q=&amp;amp;esrc=s&amp;amp;source=web&amp;amp;cd=&amp;amp;ved=2ahUKEwiX5PGlv4b1AhURDuwKHU5JBuQQFnoECBMQAQ&amp;amp;url=https%3A%2F%2Fnl.aliexpress.com%2Fitem%2F1005001621822311.html&amp;amp;usg=AOvVaw1uT5ZgSK04dlnQvoBgHSKF&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this controller board&lt;/a&gt;), the firmware could be altered to use the spare for Y movement. &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/5786/&quot;&gt;E.g. &lt;code&gt;E1&lt;/code&gt; could be used for &lt;code&gt;Y&lt;/code&gt;.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-12-28T12:30:42.450" LastActivityDate="2021-12-28T12:30:42.450" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18641" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18634" CreationDate="2021-12-26T09:53:50.853" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;PLA starts to char at about 220 °C. However, it also starts to soft at about 100 °C and becomes sloopy (and printable!) at 180 °C. Putting the oven to anything above 180 °C will, with the heating cycle an oven undergoes, result in air that is above the temperature it degrades into burning plastic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;keeping the temperature at or below 180 °C should prevent charring - you will have to take time though, as the plastic will flow only slowly on its own.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastActivityDate="2021-12-26T09:53:50.853" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18642" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-12-26T16:17:21.300" Score="0" ViewCount="253" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am new to 3D printing, and I just put together the printer yesterday, and I spent a while trying to level it, but if I move the bed too low when it moves it gets stuck on the motor for it in the back, but if I move it just barely high enough to not do that, the nozzle hits the bed while printing and scratches the bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I used Auto Home though, the nozzle was right around 1 mm above the bed like it said it should be, what should I do?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="32440" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-12-26T16:24:29.970" LastActivityDate="2021-12-26T16:24:29.970" Title="How to stop scratching the bed and print properly on an Ender 3 V2" Tags="|troubleshooting|hardware|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18643" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-12-26T17:36:48.280" Score="2" ViewCount="182" Body="&lt;p&gt;This week I got an Ender 3. When printing the models, I get some inaccuracies on them. I tried printing a low-polygon chess rook, and it isn't printed accurately. It has these additional plastic printed that shouldn't be there:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6WTrv.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6WTrv.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It also isn't symmetrical:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DWehi.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DWehi.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the top there should be 4 identical cuboids, but on the 2 of them there isn't plastic inside and also they are slightly wider:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3vOVp.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3vOVp.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the STL file and also the G-code file sliced by Ultimaker Cura: &lt;a href=&quot;https://gofile.io/d/LpoP3f&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;files&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My specifications:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;printer: Ender 3 (nothing is modded, no parts have been changed)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;slicing software: Ultimaker Cura&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;slicing settings:&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;layer height: 0.12 mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;printing speed: 30 mm/s&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;initial layer printing speed: 20 mm/s&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;brim adhesion&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;quality: 0.16 mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;fan speed: 100%&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have properly calibrated the Esteps/mm and I have levelled the bed correctly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would really appreciate your help, I'm new to the 3D printing world.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To follow up advice from comments, I've tightened the X-axis belt and printed the calibration cube, I think now it should be good:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qUEKQ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qUEKQ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt; I'll print the rook model once more and maybe the symmetry will be good now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="32442" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-12-26T23:18:07.910" LastActivityDate="2021-12-30T19:17:45.427" Title="Some problems with printing on my Ender 3" Tags="|creality-ender-3|print-quality|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18645" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18629" CreationDate="2021-12-26T20:10:13.167" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is hard to be sure from the picture.  When I wrote this answer, material you were cutting looked like clear plastic.  When I reviewed it now, the material looks more like aluminum.  It doesn't really matter, since the melting point of aluminum is well within the range of both high speed steel (HSS) and carbide.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What follows is a list of possibilities and things to check.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;check the mounting of the spindle.  Does it hang rigidly as you push the tooltip in x, y, and any point in the circle, or does it tip more in one direction than another?  This could be caused by a loose mounting screw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Are you actually cutting, or are you melting the material?  It is very easy for a tool, especially a tight spiral 4-flute tool, to heat above the melting/softening point, and to then push through the material rather than removing it as chips.  Using a tool with fewer flutes at a slower speed can sometimes help.  You may also want to cool it with some water -- not enough to make a mess of the machine, but enough to help cool the tool.  This happens easily with plastic, and also with aluminum.  I have several times had to peel bits of solidified aluminum from inside the flutes of a carbide cutter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;It doesn't look like backlash.  The 45-degree angle is curious.  To see if it varies with or without load, try putting a marking pen in the collet and draw similar circles.  It doesn't look like a primary software or hardware problem, since the inner circles were round.  Only the outermost circle has the flat spot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If the departure from a circle is only under load, reduce the load. Step the tool into the work by 1/2 of what you are doing now.  How does that change the result?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Chips remaining near the cut can join in the melt.  Try blowing compressed air on the cut while it is cutting, both for cooling, and to remove chips.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some things it is unlikely to be, if the shape was intended to be a complete circle, and if the outer pass is the last pass performed:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Skipping steps due to insufficient stepper motor torque&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Belt slipping (or lead screws skipping)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Loose belts or backlash in mechanical shaft connections.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2082" LastEditorUserId="2082" LastEditDate="2021-12-27T14:56:36.957" LastActivityDate="2021-12-27T14:56:36.957" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18646" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-12-27T10:50:15.907" Score="3" ViewCount="2256" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Cura Slicer, is it possible to change the direction that the filament is laid down when making the top layer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6AIdx.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6AIdx.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, in the above picture the filiment is laid down at about 45 degrees to the X\Y axis. Can I make it 90 degrees?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="29097" LastActivityDate="2021-12-27T17:19:33.653" Title="Is it possible to change the orientation that filament is laid down for the top layer in Cura Slicer?" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18647" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18646" CreationDate="2021-12-27T11:26:41.460" Score="0" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Yes with a few tricks:&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could turn the item by 45°, then all layers are turned to follow the local X and Y-axis of the body itself, but not the global X and Y of the printer - there'll be a 45° conversion between the items local coordinates and the printers global ones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or you could choose a different upper layer pattern, for example concentric, for the upper and lowermost layer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to define a specific zig-zag direction, you need to go advanced mode, click the gear and enable &amp;quot;Top/Bottom Line Direction&amp;quot;. This now allows altering the direction by setting an angle different from 45°/135°. The setting however is ignored if you don't use Lines or ZigZag&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6P3X2.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6P3X2.png&quot; alt=&quot;the 4.8 setting that needs to be enabled&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hk8Rm.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hk8Rm.png&quot; alt=&quot;4.8 look&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2021-12-27T17:19:33.653" LastActivityDate="2021-12-27T17:19:33.653" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18648" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18646" CreationDate="2021-12-27T15:29:49.737" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Based on the comment in Trish's answer, a custom solution might be possible using g-code, but would likely be quite tedious. I have a (retired) client whose career spanned more years than I've been alive. He traversed his development from manual machining through punched cards/paper tape and through CAD/CAM, but always created the g-code from the ground up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One could, for example, locate a CAM program with which one is comfortable and set about defining tool paths and related configurations. Fusion 360 may have a slicer feature in the non-free portion; I've not pursued that aspect of the software.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One could also examine the g-code generated for a specific layer and make appropriate adjustments to the direction of travel, extrusion commands, speed, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.instructables.com/Manual-Gcode-for-3d-Stamp-Create-Square/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Instructable&lt;/a&gt; exists which describes a method to create a hollow cube for 3D printing, but it's severely limited in scope, in my opinion. It has triggered another thought, to use the g-code generated for laser cutting/engraving as a foundation for the above noted manual creation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, a g-code based laser (i.e., GRBL) could be commanded to cut lines spaced apart by the filament width when placed by the printer, often 0.4 mm approximately. LightBurn software (multi-platform, 30-day free trial, supports GRBL) would allow you to experiment creating the initial code, which would then require manual editing for temperatures and extrusion rates.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This would require substantial experimentation and substantial time and effort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastActivityDate="2021-12-27T15:29:49.737" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18649" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18646" CreationDate="2021-12-27T15:46:06.770" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes. Set &amp;quot;Top Surface Skin Layers&amp;quot; (roofing layers) to at least 1 and &amp;quot;Top Surface Skin Line Directions&amp;quot; to 0 or 90 as appropriate (instead of 45 and 135).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2021-12-27T15:46:06.770" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18650" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18629" CreationDate="2021-12-27T22:22:55.023" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Parts of the circle are at different heights. When I rendered your 30 or so actual G1 and G2 lines, here's what I got. It looks like a circle from above, but form the sde you can see depth changes. What are those coordinate lines with no G0 ot G1 or G2 or G3 command for?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fbVWo.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fbVWo.png&quot; alt=&quot;Top view&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EctYT.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EctYT.png&quot; alt=&quot;Angled view&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;=============================&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Okay, here's a simple gcode I just made by hand do to something similar. Granted, I used all nice round numbers, but this is an example of what I think you're looking for. You'll have to change it as needed; perhaps more paths if your tool is less wide; more iterations at deeper depths, or even different coordinates. Enjoy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZT0gD.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZT0gD.png&quot; alt=&quot;Screenshot of Rendering and Gcode&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;G0 X30 Y30 ; move to start XY&#xA;M3 T12 S50 ; spindle on 50%&#xA;G1 Z-0.5 E1 ; down to depth1&#xA;G2 X50 Y50 J20.0 E1 ; arc&#xA;G1 X30 Y30 E1 ; corner&#xA;G1 X30 Y35 E1 ; move inward&#xA;G2 X45 Y50 J15 E1 ; arc&#xA;G1 X30 Y35 E1 ; corner&#xA;G1 X30 Y40 E1 ; move inward&#xA;G2 X40 Y50 J10 E1 ; arc&#xA;G1 X30 Y40 ; corner&#xA;G1 X30 Y45 ; move inward&#xA;G2 X35 Y50 J5 E1 ; arc&#xA;G1 X30 Y45 E1 ; corner&#xA;G1 X30 Y50 E1 ; move inward&#xA;G0 Z 10 ; move up to clear&#xA;M3 T12 S0 ; spindle off&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;=================================&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or, if I've made a mistake and you want simple circles:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pPuvg.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pPuvg.png&quot; alt=&quot;Screenshot of circles rendered and gcode&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;G0 X30 Y30 ; move to start XY&#xA;M3 T12 S50 ; spindle on 50%&#xA;G1 Z-0.5 E1 ; down to depth1&#xA;G2 X30 Y30 J20.0 E1 ; arc&#xA;G1 X30 Y35 E1 ; move inward&#xA;G2 X30 Y35 J15 E1 ; arc&#xA;G1 X30 Y40 E1 ; move inward&#xA;G2 X30 Y40 J10 E1 ; arc&#xA;G1 X30 Y45 ; move inward&#xA;G2 X30 Y45 J5 E1 ; arc&#xA;G1 X30 Y50 E1 ; move inward&#xA;G0 Z 10 ; move up to clear&#xA;M3 T12 S0 ; spindle off&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4922" LastEditorUserId="4922" LastEditDate="2021-12-30T14:13:24.333" LastActivityDate="2021-12-30T14:13:24.333" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18653" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-12-28T21:51:43.463" Score="1" ViewCount="235" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently upgraded my Ender 3 printer with all metal extruder and upgraded my mainboard from 4.2.2 to 4.2.7 silent board. I also added a Creality touch sensor for auto bed leveling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Before these upgrades the prints were coming out fine. But after all these upgrades I printed the xyz calibration cube and it came out with weird lines in the print like in the below images.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8BWk5.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8BWk5.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zhRup.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zhRup.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3soEe.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3soEe.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/493hr.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/493hr.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OnKct.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OnKct.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It looks like there are 2 issues. One at the top where it looks like it has under extruded and the other at the bottom where it has some weird line. Also these line appears at the same exact height and I tried printing the same cube multiple times and the result is the same. I need help in figuring out what this issue is, why it is occurring and how do I fix it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="32476" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2021-12-28T22:03:36.087" LastActivityDate="2021-12-28T22:03:36.087" Title="Weird lines in the print at specific heights" Tags="|creality-ender-3|print-quality|extruder|underextrusion|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18654" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14457" CreationDate="2021-12-29T00:58:19.910" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had exactly the same issue and I was surprised with the lack of the information about this topic on the Internet. So, here is how I managed to make the gantry absolutely parallel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Make sure your frame is square:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qsS6G.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qsS6G.png&quot; alt=&quot;Frame&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;If it's not square, try to loosen all the screws (don't forget about those holding the motherboard) and tighten everything again. Use a level and a carpenter's square.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Loosen the shaft couplings on the Y axis. Those:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3xAym.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3xAym.png&quot; alt=&quot;Shaft couplers&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Loosen these four screws:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qnwf6.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qnwf6.png&quot; alt=&quot;Gantry screws&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Loosen these eccentric nuts:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HP79V.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HP79V.png&quot; alt=&quot;Eccentric nuts&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Now your gantry should be completely relieved and allow you to make the adjustments&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Move the gantry to the front side of the printer so that the wheels touch these corners:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/s2s1W.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/s2s1W.png&quot; alt=&quot;Aluminum corners&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;If your frame is square, it would mean that X and Y axes would be perpendicular to each other.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Don't push the gantry to hard to prevent wheels damage!&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Now tighten the screws from the second step, trying to still hold the gantry touching the corners at both sides:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CEIqa.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CEIqa.png&quot; alt=&quot;Gantry screws&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Then, tighten the shaft coupling from the first step, while still ensuring everything is perpendicular and parallel.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Y1cp8.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Y1cp8.png&quot; alt=&quot;Shaft couplers&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Finally, adjust the eccentric nuts from the fourth step. Make sure they all touch the profile and that they all have the same rolling friction.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ah9vg.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ah9vg.png&quot; alt=&quot;Eccentric nuts&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check everything one more time and you're done. Now your gantry is completely squared. Enjoy your skew-less prints!&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ender-5 Pro 3D model: &lt;a href=&quot;https://grabcad.com/library/creality-ender-5-pro-1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://grabcad.com/library/creality-ender-5-pro-1&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8931" LastActivityDate="2021-12-29T00:58:19.910" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18655" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-12-29T01:52:54.377" Score="2" ViewCount="949" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an Ender 3 Pro and I am trying to print a fairly delicate model of a low-polygon chicken as a Christmas ornament.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CstS6.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CstS6.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;chicken ornament model&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My slicer is Cura 4.11.0.  I have successfully printed a dozen of them with 0.2 mm layer height but the legs break off super easily.  As soon as I increase the quality to 0.16 mm and/or change the wall thickness to 5 (to cause complete infill in the legs) the extruder crashes into the print about 80 % through, every time (n=6).  I tried changing these settings (while also troubleshooting globbing/stringing):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Combing Mode: &lt;code&gt;noskin&lt;/code&gt; to &lt;code&gt;infill&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Z Hop When Retracted: &lt;code&gt;False&lt;/code&gt; to &lt;code&gt;True&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Max Comb Distance With No Retract: 30 to 10.0 mm &lt;a href=&quot;https://support.ultimaker.com/hc/en-us/articles/360012016280-How-to-fix-stringing&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;per this post&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Build Plate Adhesion Type: &lt;code&gt;skirt&lt;/code&gt; to &lt;code&gt;brim&lt;/code&gt; (less resistant to falling over)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Printing Temperature: 200 to 190 °C&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Print Speed: 50 to 30 mm/s&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Outer Wall Wipe Distance: 0.0 to 0.1 mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've tried three materials, all 1.75 mm PLA:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;325(1000G) Silk silver blue 111932&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Silk 335M(1KG) Silver 111858&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Eryone Marble&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first two generic materials are pretty crap.  The gooping and stringing didn't occur nearly as much with the Eryone Marble.  But that issue aside, the extruder keeps crashing into the print.  The brim and increased wall thickness resist the collisions but eventually, the force is great enough that the print breaks:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SBnGI.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SBnGI.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;print failure&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Resources:&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/QSmJIdkeS6o&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Timelapse video of failure&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://gist.github.com/micchickenburger/a82f872d0feb70eed010f1f3eae8c1c4&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;G Code of broken print&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://gist.github.com/micchickenburger/39dd4936378ec840e57f70e25a465f86&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;G Code of working print&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm just not sure what else to do.  I've never had this issue before on any other model I've printed.  I used a level to ensure the bed is flat.  I'm using a glass bed with great adhesion (clearly; the model breaks before it comes off the bed.)  Instead of the Z-stop, I'm using the BLTouch, which samples 16 points before every print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I thought that maybe moisture trapped in the material might be slightly increasing layer height with each layer, causing the print to fail after the same number of layers each time late in the print with a low layer height, but succeeding with a higher layer height.  However, the ambient air temperature is 17 °C and the relative humidity is 44 %, not particularly high. Furthermore, different materials of different ages stored in the same location have the same failure.  I don't have a dehydrator to be totally sure, though.  I've been wanting to build one so this may be a good excuse.  But any other advice or suggestions would be immensely appreciated!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="32478" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-12-29T03:40:16.300" LastActivityDate="2021-12-29T03:40:16.300" Title="Extruder keeps crashing into print" Tags="|creality-ender-3|ultimaker-cura|print-failure|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18656" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-12-29T03:34:53.633" Score="0" ViewCount="146" Body="&lt;p&gt;Faulty endstop caused the printer (a traditional cartesian FDM) to try to move over the maximum axis limit at top, the noise has been atrocious, I don't see damages (apparently) but I'm wondering if this could have damaged something or the motors aren't strong enough to do any serious physical damage to mechanics of movement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could you clarify this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20123" LastActivityDate="2022-03-03T15:37:19.080" Title="Impact on 3D printer of movement forced over the limit" Tags="|endstop|axis|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18657" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-12-29T09:45:29.117" Score="0" ViewCount="289" Body="&lt;p&gt;Newly built Ender 6 printer makes a loud whine or beep for every retraction, print quality not affected, but is very annoying and louder than the rest of the printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this normal or do I need to grease or lubricate extruder gears?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="32482" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2021-12-29T15:43:54.683" LastActivityDate="2021-12-29T15:43:54.683" Title="Ender 6 un-modded loud retraction sound" Tags="|retraction|creality-ender-6|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18659" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17831" CreationDate="2021-12-29T16:43:54.537" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Update here: even the 105 degrees of the heatbed wasn't enough. Put the PEI sheet in the oven, then the ABS wiped right off with a paper towel. I set it to 180 degrees, but I don't think it even got there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="32487" LastActivityDate="2021-12-29T16:43:54.537" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18660" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-12-30T02:24:58.580" Score="3" ViewCount="594" Body="&lt;p&gt;Various filaments are sensitive to moisture to one degree or another. So far I've only printed with PLA. I can definitely tell the difference between fresh (just out of the package) PLA but I don't do much to store PLA between prints. I just keep a silica packet in the box.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm getting ready to unseal my first spool of PETG and was wondering if the same level of caution will be sufficient, or if PETG needs better humidity control.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10422" LastActivityDate="2021-12-30T04:08:29.883" Title="Is PETG sensetive to moisture?" Tags="|filament|petg|storage|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18661" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18660" CreationDate="2021-12-30T04:08:29.883" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here are some pics I took a while back of a test piece, single-wall cube with no infill, before (right) and after (left) drying PETG:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AaIvZ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Before and after pic with flash&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and again without flash:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8gss9.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Before and after pic without flash&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you can see, the undried filament produced significant cosmetic problems (albeit only visible with right lighting and camera angle). Whether these matter for your application, or whether they correspond to structural problems, I'm not sure. My experience with PETG has been that I don't hit serious problems that compromise the print from wet filament (like the runaway stringing you'll get with wet TPU), but that drying is still worthwhile.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2021-12-30T04:08:29.883" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18662" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="454" CreationDate="2021-12-30T05:29:54.163" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;As pointed out in &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/454/how-to-configure-cura-to-run-the-z-probe-before-heating/469#comment6403_469&quot;&gt;Markus's comment&lt;/a&gt; to &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/469/4762&quot;&gt;Tormod's answer&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;code&gt;{print_temperature}&lt;/code&gt; needs to be replaced by &lt;code&gt;{material_print_temperature}&lt;/code&gt;, so the code now becomes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;G28          ;move printer to endstops (the home position)&#xA;G92 E0       ;zero the extruded filament length&#xA;M565 Z-1     ;set z-probe offset     &amp;lt;-----   ( YOU HAVE TO ADJUST THIS, READ BELOW)&#xA;G1 Z5 F5000  ;move the printer 5mm above the bed&#xA;G29          ;run auto-leveling&#xA;M109 S{material_print_temperature}    ;set nozzle temperature, and wait for it heat up&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4762" LastActivityDate="2021-12-30T05:29:54.163" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18663" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11684" CreationDate="2021-12-30T05:54:01.127" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's also the option to save the mesh so that you don't have to level each time you print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First of all, using Cura or whatever you use to send commands, send:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;M502; Reset to factory settings &#xA;M500; Saves (so that you may start with a clean slate)&#xA;G28; Home All&#xA;G29; Autolevel&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After running your auto bed leveling, add&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;code&gt;M500&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And you're done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;P.S. don't forget to do this after bringing both extruder and bed up to temperature&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="32494" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2021-12-30T14:04:49.097" LastActivityDate="2021-12-30T14:04:49.097" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18665" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-12-30T18:32:01.627" Score="3" ViewCount="243" Body="&lt;p&gt;About 5 hours into a print last night, the filament stopped extruding leaving the model unfinished.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On investigation, I saw that the filament had stopped feeding. I can see marks on the filament left by the wheel that feeds it through the tube. The marks stop with a black mark. Does the black mark suggest a reason why the printer stopped printing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am using an Anycubic Mega S with 3dJake EcoPLA.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KdtuT.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KdtuT.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="32501" LastEditorUserId="32501" LastEditDate="2021-12-30T19:46:24.953" LastActivityDate="2022-05-31T03:02:25.230" Title="What caused the blackening of this filament?" Tags="|filament|troubleshooting|extruder|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18666" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18643" CreationDate="2021-12-30T19:17:45.427" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I've been trying to fix that problem and I've managed to do it. I have tightened the X axis belt and went through all configuration files on &lt;a href=&quot;https://teachingtechyt.github.io&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://teachingtechyt.github.io&lt;/a&gt;, that fixed my problem. Thank you for helping me to solve this issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="32442" LastActivityDate="2021-12-30T19:17:45.427" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18671" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13940" CreationDate="2021-12-31T23:52:33.613" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had the same problem with my Ender-3 V2.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You need to check if the feeder bracket is square like explained in &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xnzNd_FIMKY&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this YouTube&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If that is not the problem maybe you need a custom bracket to change the spacing between the Z-motor and the frame like &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2752080&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4699747&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4723087&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have improved mine a lot using:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2752080&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;This Z-motor mount&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Using &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.amazon.com/s?k=Elmer%E2%80%99s+Disappearing+Purple+Glue+Stick&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;glue stick&lt;/a&gt; instead of squeezing the first layer&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rDm9OziZ6dY&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Leveling the bed using a feeler gauge&lt;/a&gt; instead of a piece of paper&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Initial fan speed 100 %, all layers the same&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Same flow rate, line width, line height on all layers&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Build plate 40 °C, nozzle 205 °C&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Seam Corner Preference: Hide or Expose Seam&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="32512" LastEditorUserId="32512" LastEditDate="2022-01-17T22:48:47.337" LastActivityDate="2022-01-17T22:48:47.337" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18672" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18665" CreationDate="2022-01-01T01:51:34.140" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;2 possibilities occur:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Grease/dust has contaminated your filament somehow, and the extruder's drive wheel is not gripping it.  The rest of the printer would have &amp;quot;air-printed&amp;quot;   Maybe the filament was pre-dirty and this is the point it stopped.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Stoppage - something blocked up the hotend and the filament resisted being pushed in.  Perhaps the hotend cooled down and filament solidified, or there's a real blockage in there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you had a camera on the printer, you might be able to review timelapse footage and see if anything happened.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Right now I'd suggest you discard that length, refit the same filament, and print something small, just to make sure its still working.  You might choose to aim any timelapse camera directly at the filament drive wheel or just watch it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12956" LastActivityDate="2022-01-01T01:51:34.140" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18674" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15985" CreationDate="2022-01-01T05:11:59.017" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just to be sure - you know that the SD Card reader in an Ender 3 is upside down?  That means the visible contacts on the micro-SD card have to be facing upward.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If someone has forced a card in the wrong-way around, it could have damaged the reader.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally, once I got OctoPrint working I never print from microSD card at all.  Not a solution but a workaround.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12956" LastActivityDate="2022-01-01T05:11:59.017" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18675" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2709" CreationDate="2022-01-01T05:42:05.123" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I started, I got a lot of failed prints due to loss of adhesion.  It still happens but much rarer.  Dialling in settings improved that, but downside is that parts stay stuck to my glass bed really well even when completely cooled off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I now use a 30mm paint scraper to peel the brim up as far around the model as possible.  I only use a 5mm brim width now, and that seems workable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I then use the same paint scraper as a chisel right at the end of a part, and push it into the bed so the blade is flexed.  Then I tap the handle end with a rubber mallet.  This generally either pops the part off completely, or at least lets the blade slip underneath where I can push it further by hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd prefer perfect adhesion, but would rather have over-adhesion than under-adhesion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12956" LastActivityDate="2022-01-01T05:42:05.123" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18678" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-01-03T05:07:46.020" Score="0" ViewCount="678" Body="&lt;p&gt;I switched my Ender 5 to a direct drive extruder and it works great but I need a better place to put the filament spools; probably something elevated (or even just higher than the stock spool holder) that will create an easy path for the filament to go to the extruder. I've tried to find some spool holders on Thingiverse but most of them require a shelf above the printer which I do not have. Do you have any suggestions for how to fix this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30837" LastEditorUserId="30837" LastEditDate="2022-01-09T04:24:44.787" LastActivityDate="2022-01-09T04:24:44.787" Title="Ender 5 Spool Holder" Tags="|creality-ender-5|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18680" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-01-03T17:49:23.560" Score="1" ViewCount="22" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am currently trying to let someone print a 3D-model of mine for school. The model was made in blender.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Everything works fine until the guy imports my model via &lt;code&gt;.stl&lt;/code&gt; for printing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Suddenly the model has got holes on its left leg. What is wrong? I can not find a solution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/I1grq.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/I1grq.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="32539" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2022-01-03T18:06:12.350" LastActivityDate="2022-01-04T20:20:18.250" Title="Model looks differently on one leg, has holes" Tags="|3d-models|diy-3d-printer|blender|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2022-01-05T09:04:18.367" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18681" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18690" CreationDate="2022-01-03T20:44:23.857" Score="6" ViewCount="9088" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been trying to do some research on Linear Advance (LA) on Marlin and Pressure Advance (PA) on Klipper, and from my understanding the technology behind each is different, although also similar.  If I understand what I have read correctly, then:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;LA will alter the extruder acceleration movements so that the extruder can keep relatively the same pressure while printing.  The effect of this would be prettier corners and z-seams&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PA also seems to alter the extruder flow rate based on the movements.  This should also prevent under/over extrusion in the print similar to LA, but where does it differ from LA?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is my understanding of these correct?  I currently have an Ender3v2 with a direct drive setup and am curious if LA or PA would be considered better today (2022)?  From what I understand, my 4.2.7 motherboard is not compatible with LA due to its stepper drivers, and I am trying to determine if I should move from Marlin to Klipper and use PA, or whether I should upgrade my motherboard and use LA in Marlin.  I may need to upgrade my motherboard anyways as I was also wanting to add some additional temperature sensors and fan controls for a heated enclosure I plan to build down the road.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any thoughts/advice or reviews and/or current comparisons of the two technologies would be appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30605" LastEditorUserId="36802" LastEditDate="2023-11-24T17:10:25.783" LastActivityDate="2023-11-24T17:10:25.783" Title="What is the difference between Linear Advance and Pressure Advance?" Tags="|creality-ender-3|marlin|klipper|pressure-advance|linear-advance|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18682" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18148" CreationDate="2022-01-03T23:13:40.290" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Within OpenSCAD expressions, the order of precedence is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;div class=&quot;s-table-container&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;table class=&quot;s-table&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;thead&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;th&gt;Operators&lt;/th&gt;&#xA;&lt;th&gt;Description&lt;/th&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;/thead&gt;&#xA;&lt;tbody&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;() []&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;group, vector, or range&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;() [] .&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;function call, indexing, member lookup&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;^&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;exponentiation&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;! + -&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;unary operations&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;* / %&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;multiplication&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;+ -&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;addition&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&amp;lt; &amp;lt;= &amp;gt;= &amp;gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;ordering&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;== !=&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;equality&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&amp;amp;&amp;amp;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;logical AND&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;||&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;logical OR&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;?: function() let() assert() echo()&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;ternary operator and unary pseudo-operators&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tbody&gt;&#xA;&lt;/table&gt;&#xA;&lt;/div&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are no bit-wise operators, and neither comma nor &amp;quot;=&amp;quot; are operators.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Source: &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/openscad/openscad/blob/master/src/parser.y&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;openscad/src/parser.y&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31881" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2022-01-03T23:19:48.943" LastActivityDate="2022-01-03T23:19:48.943" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18683" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18702" CreationDate="2022-01-04T02:15:19.423" Score="1" ViewCount="1092" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 3DTouch with my Ender 3 3D printer with the Creality 4.2.2 Board. It is running a custom build of Marlin 2.0.9.2. As I have been watching my prints, I noticed that the Z-axis lead screw does not turn at all as the print head traverses the bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With the 3DTouch and a mesh of the print bed, the Z-axis lead screw should very slightly turn to move the X-axis gantry up or down to compensate for deviations and irregularities in the print bed as the print head moves around.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I will add that these print head movements travel across a decent portion of the bed. My bed definitely is irregular, and so I would definitely expect the Z-axis screw to adjust the x-axis gantry appropriately.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is my start G-code in Cura:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;; Ender 3 Custom Start G-code&#xA;M140 S{material_bed_temperature_layer_0} ; Set Heat Bed temperature&#xA;M190 S{material_bed_temperature_layer_0} ; Wait for Heat Bed temperature&#xA;M104 S160; start warming extruder to 160&#xA;G28 ; Home all axes&#xA;G29 ; Auto bed-level (BL-Touch)&#xA;G92 E0 ; Reset Extruder&#xA;M104 S{material_print_temperature_layer_0} ; Set Extruder temperature&#xA;G1 X0.1 Y20 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move to start position&#xA;M109 S{material_print_temperature_layer_0} ; Wait for Extruder temperature&#xA;; G1 Z2.0 F3000 ; Move Z Axis up little to prevent scratching of Heat Bed&#xA;G1 X0.1 Y200.0 Z0.3 F1500.0 E15 ; Draw the first line&#xA;G1 X0.4 Y200.0 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move to side a little&#xA;G1 X0.4 Y20 Z0.3 F1500.0 E30 ; Draw the second line&#xA;G92 E0 ; Reset Extruder&#xA;G1 Z2.0 F3000 ; Move Z Axis up little to prevent scratching of Heat Bed&#xA;; End of custom start GCode&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://we.tl/t-gyToFW4YqJ&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Here&lt;/a&gt; are my &lt;code&gt;Configuration.h&lt;/code&gt; and &lt;code&gt;Configuration_adv.h&lt;/code&gt; files.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wasn't able to paste my entire configuration file here, so I have provided it in the link above.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What have I done wrong?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To be more concise, here is a list of everything I changed in the default configuration file.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I ensured &lt;code&gt;#define PDITEMP&lt;/code&gt; is not commented so that I can do PID tuning of the nozzle.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Similar to #1, I ensured that &lt;code&gt;#define PIDTEMPBED&lt;/code&gt; is not commented so that I can do PID tuning of the bed.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I commented &lt;code&gt;#define Z_MIN_PROBE_USES_Z_MIN_ENDSTOP_PIN&lt;/code&gt; since I will be using the 5-pin BLTouch port that is on my 4.2.2. board.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I uncommented &lt;code&gt;#define USE_PROBE_FOR_Z_HOMING&lt;/code&gt; since I removed my z-axis endstop and want to use my 3DTouch as the Z endstop.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Uncommented &lt;code&gt;#define BLTOUCH&lt;/code&gt; since the 3DTouch is a BLTouch clone.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Changed my x and y offsets in the setting &lt;code&gt;#define NOZZLE_TO_PROBE_OFFSET { -42, -8, 0 }&lt;/code&gt;. I left the Z-offset 0, since I will be using the tuning tool to adjust that and observe the squish. For the X and Y, I measured the distance between my probe and the nozzle using a digital caliper.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I adjusted the probe margin from 10 to 15, since I have clips that previously would interfere with the 3DTouch. 15 should give more distance. &lt;code&gt;#define PROBING_MARGIN 15&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I enabled and set MULTIPLE_PROBING to 3. I'm paranoid about the current accuracy and am willing to see if that improves anything at the expense of a few additional minutes. &lt;code&gt;#define MULTIPLE_PROBING 3&lt;/code&gt;. I think 2 should be fine for general use.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Uncommented &lt;code&gt;#define Z_MIN_PROBE_REPEATABILITY_TEST&lt;/code&gt;. I want to test my 3DTouch and uncommenting allows the use of &lt;code&gt;M48&lt;/code&gt; to test it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Uncommented &lt;code&gt;#define PROBING_FANS_OFF&lt;/code&gt;, &lt;code&gt;#define PROBING_ESTEPPERS_OFF&lt;/code&gt;, &lt;code&gt;#define PROBING_STEPPERS_OFF&lt;/code&gt;, &lt;code&gt;#define DELAY_BEFORE_PROBING 200&lt;/code&gt;. The documentation this may improve probing results. I'm all in.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Uncommented &lt;code&gt;#define NO_MOTION_BEFORE_HOMING&lt;/code&gt; and &lt;code&gt;#define HOME_AFTER_DEACTIVATE&lt;/code&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Uncommented &lt;code&gt;#define AUTO_BED_LEVELING_BILINEAR&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Uncommented &lt;code&gt;#define RESTORE_LEVELING_AFTER_G28&lt;/code&gt;. This is to ensure the mesh is applied even after &lt;code&gt;G28&lt;/code&gt;, which disables the mesh otherwise.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ensures that this setting was 10. &lt;code&gt;#define DEFAULT_LEVELING_FADE_HEIGHT 10.0&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I set the following: &lt;code&gt;#define GRID_MAX_POINTS_X 7&lt;/code&gt;. Ensures a 7x7 mesh grid is created. This could be more or less. 49 points is an improvement over Creality's 9, although a bit much. Worthwhile in my case.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Uncommented &lt;code&gt;#define EXTRAPOLATE_BEYOND_GRID&lt;/code&gt;. I was actually wondering if this was causing some of the inconsistent prints near the edge.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Uncommented &lt;code&gt;#define LCD_BED_LEVELING&lt;/code&gt;. This is to unlock more options for ABL in the menu.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Uncommented &lt;code&gt;#define LEVEL_BED_CORNERS&lt;/code&gt;. This should make moving between corners for manual leveling easier.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Uncommented &lt;code&gt;#define LEVEL_CORNERS_USE_PROBE&lt;/code&gt;. This is to achieve exactly what I was doing with &lt;code&gt;G30&lt;/code&gt; in Pronterface. I changed to tolerance with &lt;code&gt;#define LEVEL_CORNERS_PROBE_TOLERANCE 0.03&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Uncommented &lt;code&gt;#define Z_SAFE_HOMING&lt;/code&gt;, which is important for the BLTouch.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Changed my PLA profile according to what I have determined to be best with &lt;code&gt;#define PREHEAT_1_TEMP_HOTEND 200&lt;/code&gt; and &lt;code&gt;#define PREHEAT_1_TEMP_BED 60&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="32347" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2022-01-04T11:39:41.390" LastActivityDate="2022-01-08T14:05:36.260" Title="Z-axis lead screw not turning to adjust height when using auto leveling?" Tags="|creality-ender-3|marlin|bed-leveling|z-axis|3dtouch|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18685" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15051" CreationDate="2022-01-04T11:53:47.947" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The problem isn't Cura, rather its the precision of the 3D model. If parts of the model is smaller than the line width the model cannot be printed. A solution to this would be to increase the thickness of the cylinder, decrease the size of the square or reduce the line width to allow that region to be properly fabricated, another solution would be to decrease the line width (line width option) however, keep in mind that you should not reduce the line width beyond the nozzle hole size (nozzle hole &amp;gt; line width). As mentioned before, if the model requires sections that are smaller than the line width, Cura will ignore it. From the image you provided it would seem that the corners are extremely close to the wall of the cylinder which prevents Cura from making a extrusion path, the reason of which I explained above.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="32551" LastActivityDate="2022-01-04T11:53:47.947" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18686" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18629" CreationDate="2022-01-04T15:25:30.180" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've ran the code on my own CNC machine. I slightly adapted the code as my machine doesn't understand the movement without the instruction code:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Z1 F10.0&#xA;Z-2.9&#xA;X10.792 Z-2.938 F10.0&#xA;X10.771 Z-2.971&#xA;X10.738 Z-2.992&#xA;X10.7 Z-3&#xA;X10.6&#xA;X10.562 Y0.092&#xA;X10.529 Y0.071&#xA;X10.508 Y0.038&#xA;X10.5 Y0&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;is changed to&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;G1 Z1 F10.0&#xA;G1 Z-2.9&#xA;G1 X10.792 Z-2.938 F10.0&#xA;G1 X10.771 Z-2.971&#xA;G1 X10.738 Z-2.992&#xA;G1 X10.7 Z-3&#xA;G1 X10.6&#xA;G1 X10.562 Y0.092&#xA;G1 X10.529 Y0.071&#xA;G1 X10.508 Y0.038&#xA;G1 X10.5 Y0&#xA;etc...&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As I used an engraver bit, I made sure the depth was touching the wood (engraving) when running at the lowest depth. The contour it drew was a perfect circle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aYvdw.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aYvdw.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The code is therefor working as it should (carve a circle, in the photo above, the circle started at the hole in the top left and followed a clockwise path), the result from your milling exercise shows that the final segment of the circle is not giving you a circle segment, instead the milling path is sort of straight. I've seen such paths where the steppers are not powerful enough to mill through the material. As a result they skip steps, and in this case it results in a sort of straight path. You should try running a dry run (in air), or in softer material (this will determine if the code is producing a cirlce in your machine as well), and add more passes to milling the knob (for the final product).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2022-01-04T15:25:30.180" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18687" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18696" CreationDate="2022-01-04T16:50:37.240" Score="0" ViewCount="1543" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have had my Ender 3 Pro for about 2 years now and it has been working amazingly!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since November it's struggling very much while printing. I am quite sure the problem lives on the extruder motor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;About 1 of 5 prints come out ok. The main problem is that the first 2-3 first layers are all good. But as the prints develop, under-extrusion problems come. It's not a clog, because I can push the filament and it flows smoothly. It's like the motor cannot push the filament to the feeding line.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thing's I tried so far:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Upgrading the extruder from plastic to aluminum (verified the tension, not too loose, not too tight)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Changed hotend (PTFE, nozzle, block, etc)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;E-steps calibrated&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tried switching MicroSD&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;3 different brands of filament&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I noticed that the motor is getting pretty hot. I mean, you can't have your hand in there for more than a second. My theory is that this overheating softens the filament and it cannot feed. Is this possible? The aluminum extruder also gets pretty hot. There is no clicking sound or anything weird while printing, the first layers come out perfectly ok.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="32558" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2022-01-04T18:02:32.410" LastActivityDate="2022-01-06T23:09:44.997" Title="Ender 3 Pro extruder motor failing constantly" Tags="|creality-ender-3|extrusion|overextrusion|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18688" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18687" CreationDate="2022-01-04T19:39:00.000" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I noticed that the motor is getting pretty hot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's not normal. Replacement motors are cheap and easy to find, so I'd swap out the motor before doing anything else. If the new one also heats up the same way, there might be a problem with the main board, but I'll bet a new motor will solve the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1690" LastActivityDate="2022-01-04T19:39:00.000" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18690" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18681" CreationDate="2022-01-05T04:48:42.993" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Both are implementations of exactly the same concept, even up to the units of the tuning constant being seconds (mm/(mm/s)). The difference is in the implementation details, and particularly how they deal with a mathematically and physically nasty/demanding part of the concept.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In order to compensate for pressure making the filament/filament-path behave like a spring, LA/PA offset the E-axis position by a fraction (K) of the pre-LA/PA E-axis velocity. Mathematically, as an operator acting on the function that's the E-axis position at time t, the basic LA/PA transformation is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I + K*D&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;where I is the identity, K is the spring constant, and D is the (time) derivative.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyone with a mathematical background in functional analysis or PDEs will recognize this as an unbounded linear operator (at least with respect to most norms, due to the derivative term). Casually speaking, it shifts bad behavior of a particular derivative &amp;quot;down one level&amp;quot;. Instantaneous changes of acceleration (starting to accel/decel) become isntantaneous changes of velocity. Instantaneous changes of velocity (&amp;quot;jerk&amp;quot;/junctions) become instantaneous changes of &lt;strong&gt;position&lt;/strong&gt;. (Insert horrified face here.) In short, the result is not physically realizable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are two ways to deal with this impossibility:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The Marlin way (Linear Advance): E-axis acceleration and jerk limits are applied in such a manner that the result of the LA transformation is still within those constraints. This makes printing &lt;strong&gt;a lot&lt;/strong&gt; slower. Essentially there's no longer any E-jerk, and E-acceleration is limited by K time E-velocity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The Klipper way (Pressure Advance): No changes are made whatsoever to the kinematic timing. Print speed is exactly what it would be without PA. Instead, a smoothing convolution with a triangle wave is applied on top of the result of the PA transformation (I + K*D) to make the E-axis position function back into something physically realizable. This introduces a new type of error into the extrusion, but if the time window of the smoothing can be kept narrow enough, the error is expected to be small enough not to matter. Unfortunately, the more extreme your print acceleration, the longer the window needed to keep the result of PA physically realizable, so there are still limits. If you don't tune them right, the extruder will just start skipping.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my opinion, the Marlin behavior is easier to get started with, but hopelessly slow to actually use unless you start cranking up your acceleration and jerk limits. And this ends up being comparable to the manual tuning you have to do with the Klipper PA smooth time window. But in the end, Klipper's approach will always win on print performance, because the smoothing lets you cheat and do moves that wouldn't be possible with Marlin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2022-01-05T04:48:42.993" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18692" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-01-06T03:14:26.590" Score="1" ViewCount="89" Body="&lt;p&gt;The most recognizable problem with my 3D printer is that the extruder stepper keeps clicking. As you can see in these 2 pictures it fails to extrude out plastic in time when doing retractions and when not doing retractions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FemKA.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Close-up photo of the base of a printed model with printing errors&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FemKA.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Close-up photo of the base of a printed model with printing errors&quot; title=&quot;Close-up photo of the base of a printed model with printing errors&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GbqyB.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Photo of a stopped print with printing errors and the same model printed properly&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GbqyB.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Photo of a stopped print with printing errors and the same model printed properly&quot; title=&quot;Photo of a stopped print with printing errors and the same model printed properly&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've tried releveling the bed several times, higher and lower printing temperatures, cleaning the nozzle serval times, adjusting print speed, and using brand new PLA filament several times.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So far I have narrowed down the problem to the extruder or the extruder stepper or the software that's interpreting the G-code on the 3D printer. In the pictures above there is the exact same print with the exact same G-code one printed before the printer started messing up and now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My 3D printer is the Anet A8.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have no idea what the problem is any ideas?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/epkyy.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Photo of Anet A8 3D printer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/epkyy.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Photo of Anet A8 3D printer&quot; title=&quot;Photo of Anet A8 3D printer&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gXQG1.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Photo of extruder on 3D printer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gXQG1.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Photo of extruder on 3D printer&quot; title=&quot;Photo of extruder on 3D printer&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/W2HGT.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Photo of the hotend assembly on the 3D printer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/W2HGT.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Photo of the hotend assembly on the 3D printer&quot; title=&quot;Photo of the hotend assembly on the 3D printer&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="32573" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2022-01-06T04:03:02.453" LastActivityDate="2022-01-06T04:03:02.453" Title="Anet A8 keeps failing prints that it used to be able to complete and new ones" Tags="|extruder|anet-a8|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18694" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18695" CreationDate="2022-01-06T20:14:00.940" Score="1" ViewCount="1922" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm using Ultimaker Cura to slice my 3D models, and I often have a problem with object with dimensions over multiple orders of magnitudes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically, if I set an Infill of 20 %, the infill is calculated for the entire region, regardless of whether for each z-stack, the region is actually a closed one, or multiple separated ones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a result, the fragility is increased in those tiny regions that have no filling, because overall, the infill percentage is respected, but out of unfortunate yet inevitable  statistics, the parts with no infill ended up colocalizing with the regions that needed infill the most.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/j9jiA.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/j9jiA.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you can see in this famous Llamacorn, some closed regions have no infill at all (right side), and the left arrow shows how the infill is calculated based on the entire structure rather than the local one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any adaptive option hidden somewhere?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do I need to tweak the model directly?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28455" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2022-01-08T22:04:26.213" LastActivityDate="2022-01-08T22:04:26.213" Title="Adaptive infill density in small region" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|infill|print-strength|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18695" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18694" CreationDate="2022-01-06T22:33:49.117" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Actually, the right region does have a calculated infill; it just happens to be at the edge of the inner wall.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NSBEu.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Zoomed rendering of a model with a thin black line to show infill line&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NSBEu.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Zoomed rendering of a model with a thin black line to show infill line&quot; title=&quot;Zoomed rendering of a model with a thin black line to show infill line&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have drawn a thin black line along the infill lines for this layer and you can see that there is a small infill line.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cura has a feature called &amp;quot;Support Blocker&amp;quot; that allows you to change the settings for certain areas of your model. You could make those particular areas have an infill of 100 % if you like.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Chuck Hellebuyck has a video on his YouTube channel that explains how to set this up. It's not that difficult and will take some time to get the area just the way you want it. The information for the &amp;quot;Support Blocker&amp;quot; starts at timestamp 2:01.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/su_m5zV9rvA?start=122&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another idea is to try rotating the model on the build plate to &amp;quot;force&amp;quot; an infill line to be generated where you need it. The only problem with this is that you may spend more time trying to get all the areas filled the way you want them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23193" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2022-01-08T01:07:02.453" LastActivityDate="2022-01-08T01:07:02.453" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18696" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18687" CreationDate="2022-01-06T23:09:44.997" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a few probable causes I can think of based on your description. That it only starts happening after the printer has been running for a bit makes me think it's a heat issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first problem I'd check out is that extruder motor getting that hot. It should be warm, but not so hot it's uncomfortable to hold. Either the stepper is defective, or you have the current to it set too high. There is a small screw on the motherboard beside each motor driver that allows you to adjust the current to each stepper. Find a guide for your printer to adjust it properly. You'll likely need a multimeter to do it right.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The current being too high on the extruder could also cause the stepper driver (a chip on the mainboard) to overheat. When those overheat they go into thermal shutdown and will stop driving the extruder for a moment until they cool off enough to resume. If your printer has a fan for the mainboard, make sure that is functioning properly as well. Those chips &lt;em&gt;do&lt;/em&gt; normally get hot enough they are uncomfortable to touch, so to check if that's the problem you'd need a thermometer and to check what model they are to see what their maximum operating temperature is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If fixing that doesn't solve it, it could be the heatsink on your hotend is getting hot enough that filament starts melting there, you can get a clog that stops the extruder from pushing filament out properly, but still feels like it can be extruded by hand. Make sure the heatsink on the hotend has sufficient cooling. After a bit of printing try touching the top of the heatsink - if it's uncomfortable to touch, you have a problem there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;-&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7038" LastActivityDate="2022-01-06T23:09:44.997" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18697" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18678" CreationDate="2022-01-07T18:37:51.883" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You don't need a shelf - your printer is built out of 2020 aluminum extrusion so you can mount stuff directly to it easily.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Something like this will work: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3840176&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3840176&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;Or this one, that has like a dozen different options for attaching it to something: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3020026&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3020026&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll need a couple of bolts and drop in T nuts to fasten it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7038" LastActivityDate="2022-01-07T18:37:51.883" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18698" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15447" CreationDate="2022-01-07T20:38:53.483" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just thought that BLTouch could automatically measure the nozzle height. If it goes down slowly till nozzle touch the bed and then push down a little more then it will see sensor isn't moving anymore then it means nozzle already pushes the bed down. Beds are usually have springs and shouldn't hurt to push it a little (~1mm) by nozzle. Not sure if such function is implemented. Just an idea. This procedure doesn't need to be used every time. Could be an option after changing the nozzle or other adjustments affecting the nozzle height.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="32596" LastActivityDate="2022-01-07T20:38:53.483" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18699" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18639" CreationDate="2022-01-07T21:15:37.907" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The answer might just be replace the mother board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I understood everything correctly there are 5 things to check to break down the problem:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the motor,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the cable,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the stepper connection,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the software input, and&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the firmware.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using Repetier I disproved that the software was broken. By switching the X stepper and Y stepper cables, the motor and connection cable were proven to work. By flashing new firmware it was shown that it was without question that the firmware was the issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The backup extractor (E1) is not operational on this board. So it is either the stepper of the mother board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="32439" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2022-01-10T12:40:55.743" LastActivityDate="2022-01-10T12:40:55.743" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18700" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-01-07T22:41:56.950" Score="1" ViewCount="2421" Body="&lt;p&gt;I spend many hours tonight with a friend figuring out what's happening and solving my Anycubic Vyper firmware update. I had various issues :&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;While updating with the current version (2.4.5 as of today) I had many issues from no file update (the firmware update program display a list of file with 000 values on their right showing that nothing is processed and the checksum at the end having done nothing&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Partial update leading to corrupted graphical interface freezing or blinking with locked actions/menus.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Never-ending update process blocking in &amp;quot;ICL&amp;quot; files (waited more than 40 minutes)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="32599" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2022-01-07T23:32:18.063" LastActivityDate="2023-05-09T07:28:44.087" Title="Anycubic firmware update fail and screen blinks or update firmware never ends" Tags="|firmware|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18701" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18700" CreationDate="2022-01-07T22:41:56.950" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I solved this by searching clues on the internet (a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.reddit.com/r/AnycubicVyper/comments/qssia2/anycubic_vyper_245_firmware_update_and_can_no/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Reddit topic&lt;/a&gt;) that lead me to the following configuration that worked for me (update completed, with sound at the end and all is functional in about 1 minute)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Format MicroSD card in &lt;strong&gt;FAT32&lt;/strong&gt;, with allocation size of &lt;strong&gt;4096 bytes&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use a small SD card (I failed many times with a 16GB one). It worked &lt;strong&gt;with a 8GB one&lt;/strong&gt; for me. (this tip is not said in the Reddit topic but made the job for me)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="32599" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2022-01-07T23:31:15.487" LastActivityDate="2022-01-07T23:31:15.487" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18702" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18683" CreationDate="2022-01-08T05:52:28.407" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;My firmware actually was working just fine, in terms of probing with &lt;code&gt;G29&lt;/code&gt; before a print and then the Z-axis would adjust during the print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The way I tested this was by putting an object underneath my probe at only a few of the probing locations at the start of the print &lt;code&gt;G29&lt;/code&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The purpose of this was to simulate very significant deviations in the bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then, when the print was printing its first layer, I would observe the Z-axis and the nozzle, and the printer did definitely make a very obvious motion near the probing points where I put the object underneath the probe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looks like when I am printing, it just doesn't seem to make any adjustments at all. I would expect it to make adjustments during the print since my bed is not perfectly level, but I guess it's how things are.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The purpose of this post was to evaluate whether or not my firmware was correctly interfacing with the BLTouch and applying the mesh to my print, and it seems like it is. The question of why it isn't making more noticeable adjustments for my print bed during normal printing is another question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="32347" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2022-01-08T14:05:36.260" LastActivityDate="2022-01-08T14:05:36.260" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18704" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-01-09T04:15:25.280" Score="0" ViewCount="65" Body="&lt;p&gt;I need to 3D print several composites. The constituent materials are photopolymer resins. The composites are very similar to a Rubik's cube. Considering it that way, each voxel (every small piece of the Rubik's cube) is either entirely printed by material A or B.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have the binary files ready for the parts. More specifically speaking, I have 3D binary tensors corresponding to each composite topology. In my tensors, each of the elements represents a voxel, and their values (binary) indicate the material that should be assigned to that specific voxel. For instance, a 1 or 0 value located at the I, J, K position of the binary tensor simply means that in that composite, the voxel located at that I, J, K position should be printed with material A or B entirely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I believe for 3D printing these composites, the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.stratasys.com/3d-printers/objet-350-500-connex3&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Stratasys Objet500 Connex3 printer&lt;/a&gt; would be a good choice. However, I have no idea how to prepare my files for 3D printing the structures. If it was a CAD file, I could use slicer software, but I do not know how I can print the structures using these binary tensors. I would appreciate any help regarding this matter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="32618" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2022-01-09T12:13:50.097" LastActivityDate="2022-01-09T19:00:41.873" Title="3D printing using only binary tensors representing parts" Tags="|3d-models|3d-design|slicing|software|stl|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18705" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18850" CreationDate="2022-01-09T07:49:57.263" Score="0" ViewCount="313" Body="&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Total beginner, not a single print yet&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Snapmaker original&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I saw a couple of tutorials telling one to design whatever needs printing on Fusion 360 and then export it to STL, import on Luban&lt;sup&gt;1)&lt;/sup&gt;, and print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For CNC, I could import a post-processor and the resulting G-code worked fine without having to deal with Luban.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know Fusion 360 doesn't have the &lt;em&gt;exact&lt;/em&gt; machine on the library, but I'm wondering if I could get away with something similar or if there is a post-processor that I could install.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1)&lt;/sup&gt; Snapmaker Luban is a free, &lt;a href=&quot;https://luban.xyz/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;open-source slicing software tailor-made&lt;/a&gt; for Snapmaker machines.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="32242" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2022-02-03T10:26:04.757" LastActivityDate="2022-02-03T10:26:04.757" Title="Fusion 360 + Snapmaker original for printing" Tags="|fusion360|snapmaker-original|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18706" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18704" CreationDate="2022-01-09T12:21:12.583" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Stratasys industrial machines generally use proprietary software to prepare the print files for printing and don't use common slicers like Ultimaker Cura or Prusa-slicer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The software that is suggested by the manufacturer for both arranging and preparing prints on their machines of the Objet type is &lt;a href=&quot;https://grabcad.com/print&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;GrabCAD&lt;/a&gt;, a free software. The project is owned by Stratasys, so it is pretty much on point to all of Stratasys' machine's capabilities.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastActivityDate="2022-01-09T12:21:12.583" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18707" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-01-09T15:17:20.523" Score="1" ViewCount="451" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been trying to print the same dinosaur model for several days and all my attempts have failed in the same place. On every attempt, the tail falls off the supports. Sometimes there is a little black fleck at the point of failure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've varied the print temperature +/- 5 °C. I've tried cooling at 60, 70 and 100 %. I've tightened the extruded gripper thing. I've dropped the print speed to 40 mm/s. On my last attempt, I increased flow to 105 % but no joy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I got the furthest with infilled support, despite the tail falling off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4eFgY.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4eFgY.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Tail falls off support&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/M3tnX.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/M3tnX.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Tail came away during print&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm using an AnyCubic Mega S with PolyTerra PLA. Model is printed with 25 % infill, printing temperature is 210 °C, 0.2 mm layer height, 3 walls @ 1.2 mm, 50 mm/s, 100 % cooling, default Cura support and raft for adhesion. I have inspected the nozzle and it is clean.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know what I could do to prevent the tail from coming away from the supports during print?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Edit&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The model is the carnosaurus from &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.myminifactory.com/object/3d-print-dinosaurs-pack-200076&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.myminifactory.com/object/3d-print-dinosaurs-pack-200076&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've been printing it as orientated in the file -- balancing on its tail almost vertical. Is this orientation unusual?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EoWpw.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EoWpw.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wonder if this way up is best suited to resin printing and whether I'd have better results if I laid the dinosaur flat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I decided to print something else. The new model, which I'd printed successfully three times before suffered from the same layer adhesion problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I re-printed the carnotaurus last night with a new, 0.25mm nozzle. It came out perfect. I suspect the original problem was down to the nozzle after all but haven't had chance to test another 0.4mm nozzle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="32501" LastEditorUserId="32501" LastEditDate="2022-01-14T13:53:11.750" LastActivityDate="2022-01-14T13:53:11.750" Title="Why does part of the model come away from supports during print?" Tags="|filament|support-structures|anycubic-i3-mega|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18708" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18704" CreationDate="2022-01-09T19:00:41.873" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It appears that your question is directed to solving the problem of converting your file of parameters to a 3D printable form. I'm far from an OpenSCAD wizard, but I suspect that your parameters file could be read into a properly coded OpenSCAD document to create the necessary STL to be printed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your reference of I, J, K is better considered as X, Y, Z and requires an additional value to determine material A, B or nul. If your voxels are uniform size as I expect, the coding is likely not to be particularly complex (for more skilled individuals).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;pseudocode:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;read entry&#xA;translate by x, y, z&#xA;check for print material a&#xA;create voxel&#xA;repeat to EOF&#xA;export STL&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;repeat for material b&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's important to note that a typical STL file requires the object to be a fully manifold creation. If the STL appears, for example, as a QR code, some of the voxels will be floating and may not produce. This is also dependent on the printer selected, as an SLS printer would be able to produce such a design, which would fall apart once removed from the print chamber. These are aspects not covered in the question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastActivityDate="2022-01-09T19:00:41.873" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18709" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18707" CreationDate="2022-01-09T21:07:13.827" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If part of the print is only attached to the buildplate through support structures, and it keeps coming off, the support structures are either not adequately adhering to the print, or they're geometrically insufficient, in the sense that they only attach at small points around which the print sitting on top can tilt like a lever with forces from the printing and eventually work its way off. If that's the case, you might have to fool around with the slicer's support generation settings until it gives you ones that look like they're geometrically reasonable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the problem is just poor adhesion between the part and the support structure, you probably just need to adjust some settings in the slicer, like the Z distance between the support and the part, and any options that might be affecting integrity of printing the support. For example Cura has an option, on by default, to skip retractions in the support structure. This causes both heavy stringing and underextrusion of the supports, so that they're weak and don't adhere well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2022-01-09T21:07:13.827" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18710" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18611" CreationDate="2022-01-09T23:28:39.667" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Tinkercad replied to my Zendesk ticket I opened (see the question), and as a a result, they seem to have fixed the issue! The &amp;quot;Send To&amp;quot; --&amp;gt; Thingiverse feature seems to be working again!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I sent my request on 20 Dec. 2021:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Subject:&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can't &amp;quot;Send To&amp;quot; Thingiverse from Tinkercad.com&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Body:&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please see a full description of my problem here: &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/18611/cant-send-to-thingiverse-from-tinkercad-com&quot;&gt;Can&amp;#39;t &amp;quot;Send To&amp;quot; Thingiverse from Tinkercad.com&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Essentially, no matter what I do I get into an infinite loop of trying to click the &amp;quot;Send to&amp;quot; button to send a model to Thingiverse, and it repeatedly fails with the error shown in the attachment. Again, see the full description at the link above.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;OS:&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Linux Ubuntu 20.04&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Browser:&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Chrome Version 96.0.4664.110 (Official Build) (64-bit)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I got this response on 3 Jan. 2022:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Nicole Smith (Tinkercad)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Jan 3, 2022, 7:16 PST&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hi Gabriel Staples,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for writing in to let us know about the issue. I'll pass on the information and see what we can figure out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regards,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Nicole&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Tinkercad&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then this on 5 Jan. 2022:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Nicole Smith (Tinkercad)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Jan 5, 2022, 15:40 PST&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hi Gabriel Staples,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This should now be working again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regards,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Nicole&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Tinkercad&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sure enough; it seems to be fixed!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next time you have an issue with TinkerCad, &lt;a href=&quot;https://tinkercad.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/requests/new&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;submit a help request here&lt;/a&gt; (I chose &amp;quot;Tinkercad Account&amp;quot; from the &amp;quot;Please choose from the options below&amp;quot; dropdown menu).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="32117" LastActivityDate="2022-01-09T23:28:39.667" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18711" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18712" CreationDate="2022-01-10T03:32:05.927" Score="2" ViewCount="424" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been printing a lot of things with 1 mm offset walls to fit lids.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FVV8Q.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Screenshot of an unsliced model in Cura&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FVV8Q.png&quot; alt=&quot;Screenshot of an unsliced model in Cura&quot; title=&quot;Screenshot of an unsliced model in Cura&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, in Cura, it's been slicing them but not compensating for the offset creating gaps since the shell thickness (0.8 mm) is less than the offset. This results in gaps and occasionally allows corners to warp.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NznRa.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Screenshot of a sliced model in Cura&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NznRa.png&quot; alt=&quot;Screenshot of a sliced model in Cura&quot; title=&quot;Screenshot of a sliced model in Cura&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;IMO it should be creating a layer that sits below the inset wall, filling the gap (i.e. making a thicker wall on the last layer before the inset wall). I've looked through the settings in Cura and couldn't find anything to do this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I could increase the wall thickness but this will result in unnecessary extra printing time/filament.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1PTx2.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Screenshot showing a layer example in Cura&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1PTx2.png&quot; alt=&quot;Screenshot showing a layer example in Cura&quot; title=&quot;Screenshot showing a layer example in Cura&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="32627" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2022-01-10T05:04:12.690" LastActivityDate="2022-10-07T06:07:10.863" Title="Gap between offset walls in print in Cura" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18712" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18711" CreationDate="2022-01-10T03:53:41.690" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Look at the &amp;quot;Skin Removal Width&amp;quot; options in Cura. You might need to unhide them if they're not shown by default. As I understand it, the &lt;em&gt;intent&lt;/em&gt; is that the &amp;quot;Skin Expand Distance&amp;quot; feature right next to it is supposed to re-expand the skin areas after shrinking them in a way that results in fewer tiny awkward-shaped regions that are slow to fill; however, as you've found, regions narrower than the wall line width can be lost completely. Setting the &amp;quot;Skin Removal Width&amp;quot; to 0 (and optionally doing the same for &amp;quot;Skin Expand Distance&amp;quot; since it should no longer be needed) will likely fix this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2022-01-10T03:53:41.690" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18713" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-01-10T17:37:45.637" Score="1" ViewCount="203" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am currently printing PLA infused with 80% copper powder. So far I mainly used it because it looks and feels really nice and post-processing is almost limitless, however recently I have thought that metal-like filaments might actually be a good idea for gears (in case I don't want to use polycarbonate or carbon fiber PLA).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have been researching about the material properties of copper-infused PLA and found a few studies about the &amp;quot;strength&amp;quot;, however, those seem to have exclusively focussed on how much weight can be suspended on a hook where it showed pretty good results. The only other info I found was an unsourced &amp;quot;it is more brittle&amp;quot;, however the objects I printed so far do not feel more brittle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone have any experience with spur gears printed from copper-infused PLA? Are there any advantages over regular PLA? Any downsides (I could imagine higher abrasiveness is not really helpful)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20301" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2022-01-12T07:20:12.423" LastActivityDate="2022-01-12T10:48:17.853" Title="Copper-infused PLA for spur gears" Tags="|filament|print-material|print-strength|filled-pla|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18715" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21030" CreationDate="2022-01-10T19:59:26.877" Score="3" ViewCount="2758" Body="&lt;p&gt;When starting the printer, the bed leveling sensor does its little startup thing and then lights up static red. When pressing &amp;quot;Level Bed&amp;quot; or &amp;quot;Auto Home&amp;quot; it homes X and Y and after that sends the Z-axis crashing into the bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there anything I can change in the firmware to debug or fix this? I have checked the wiring and it's correct.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The BLTouch is not a genuine Creality since at the time it for some reason was not available in my country. The BLTouch is connected like any other BLTouch; 2 wires to the Z endstop connector, and 3 of them to &amp;quot;+5V&amp;quot;, &amp;quot;GNF&amp;quot; and &amp;quot;IN&amp;quot;. The firmware I got of Marlins GitHub and modified the Ender 3 Pro firmware I got of Marlins configuration GitHub (Marlin BugFix 2.0).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The stuff I modified I put here:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Configuration.h&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#define USE_PROBE_FOR_Z_HOMING&#xA;#define BLTOUCH&#xA;#define NOZZLE_TO_PROBE_OFFSET { -42, -5, 0 }&#xA;#define AUTO_BED_LEVELING_BILINEAR&#xA;#define PREHEAT_BEFORE_LEVELING&#xA;#define LEVELING_BED_TEMP 65&#xA;#define GRID_MAX_POINTS_X 5&#xA;#define LCD_BED_LEVELING&#xA;#define Z_SAFE_HOMING&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Configuration_adv.h&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#define BABYSTEP_ZPROBE_OFFSET &#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I compiled this firmware with PlatformIO in VSCode with env: &lt;code&gt;STM32F103RET6_creality&lt;/code&gt;.&#xA;The board I used is version 4.2.2 32-bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The video I used can be seen here:&#xA;&lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/e1oOEzBuorI?start=0&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="32633" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2023-06-09T21:44:06.613" LastActivityDate="2024-02-03T02:59:21.987" Title="BLTouch not working on Creality Ender 3 Pro" Tags="|creality-ender-3|bltouch|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18716" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17889" CreationDate="2022-01-10T20:32:43.377" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You have written in the comments that&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did not do anything with to the wiring or firmware when it stopped working&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And that you tried&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Swapping the BLTouch out for the one that belongs to my other printer&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;testing the BLTouch with another printer&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems from these statements that the answer to your question is: something got damaged in the SKR board. Replacement is probably the only way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are however some home made optical/servo proves you can use instead of the BLTouch. They deploy a pin via a servo and use optical endstop for detection. They are reliable and require minimum wiring so that you can reuse the damaged SKR.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also try the &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/Annex-Engineering/Quickdraw_Probe&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;quickdraw probe&lt;/a&gt; by Annex Engineering.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2338" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2022-01-11T12:00:39.763" LastActivityDate="2022-01-11T12:00:39.763" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18717" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18713" CreationDate="2022-01-10T20:40:18.527" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;At a guess, copper really isn't that strong so you're likely to see minimal improvements, if any.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The PLA carrier plastic is still PLA, with a low melting point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The copper won't &amp;quot;fuse&amp;quot; with the PLA, it will still be flakes of metal embedded in a tiny pocket inside of a plastic structure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However this is all speculation, and your best option for an answer is to print some gears and methodically test them against plain PLA, and perhaps a metal gear if you can.  Try and use identical setups/bearings/pressures and times.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Perhaps a high torque and a high-speed test, in both lubricated and unlubed, for PLA, copper-PLA, and a straight metal gear? That would be 12 tests in all and clear out all questions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12956" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2022-01-12T07:17:04.140" LastActivityDate="2022-01-12T07:17:04.140" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18718" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-01-10T22:01:24.123" Score="6" ViewCount="1153" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a bit of an odd request. I am studying the vulnerability of 3D printers and would like to know if there is a way to disable the limit switches on, for example, an Ender 3 in the G-code.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ideally, the exploit would be used by plugging in the malicious code via SD card into the 3D printer. I have found ways to change the nozzle temp and things like that, however, nothing on the limit switches.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I were the manufacturer, I wouldn't implement the function, so if it's not possible it will not be a surprise. If that's the case, what would be some other options for tearing this thing up?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="32635" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2022-01-11T20:00:39.937" LastActivityDate="2022-12-17T10:06:31.733" Title="3D Printing with malicious intent" Tags="|marlin|safety|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18719" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18718" CreationDate="2022-01-11T11:14:23.820" Score="9" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Ethics and justification:&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have physical access to the device you could just... physically damage the device. Running arbitrary G-code is just more complicated&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most printer farms have a strict no outside G-code policy for good reason. Because direct physical access to the printer does not provide any security.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is also a problem for CNC Mills and other equipment. The firmware is not there to protect you. If you ask the system to put the spindle into XYZ_POS, the device's job is to deliver your 300 dollar end mill into the part as expediently and directly as you have told it. It does not hold your hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a result, it's probably best that &lt;strong&gt;no one&lt;/strong&gt; run pre-compiled G-code. You should use an STL and generate your own G-code. Not only does it allow you to properly tune the print for your specific printer, but it prevents nasties from breaking your printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do not test this on a system you do not own. You will face civil and criminal liability for any damages as a result of performing this on printers that are not your own. Additionally, I would question the value of your research provided that physical access to a device automatically makes it vulnerable; let alone running arbitrary code from an untrusted source.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To help your research: Most &amp;quot;secure&amp;quot; facilities prevent even touching a machine with external code. All code has to be generated on trusted and isolated machines by trusted persons. There is no guarantee that the &amp;quot;trusted&amp;quot; person can't manufacture a job that will crash their 300,000 dollar CNC mill and cause damage - but there are serious repercussions for doing so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;It's extremely difficult to &amp;quot;tear up&amp;quot; a printer by turning off the endstops.&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can disable physical endstops with a simple command &lt;a href=&quot;https://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M121.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;code&gt;M121&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, this only does so much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With &lt;a href=&quot;https://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M121.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;code&gt;M121&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/a&gt;, the printer is only really vulnerable before it has been &lt;a href=&quot;https://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/G028.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;home&lt;/a&gt;d. Most printers will &lt;a href=&quot;https://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/G028.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;auto home&lt;/a&gt; when starting a print, or refuse to print until they are &lt;a href=&quot;https://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/G028.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;homed&lt;/a&gt;. If issuing &lt;code&gt;M121&lt;/code&gt; then arbitrarily trying to ram it past an endstop, it will continue until it counts steps to the &lt;a href=&quot;https://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M211.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;software endstop value&lt;/a&gt; &lt;code&gt;[XYZ]_MIN_POS&lt;/code&gt; to &lt;code&gt;[XYZ]_MAX_POS&lt;/code&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Older printers didn't have software endstops and would keep going until they were stopped or turned off. But this wouldn't &lt;em&gt;explicitly&lt;/em&gt; cause damage as physical limitations would prevent it. Outside of old designs that do not physically limit the Z position - and crashing the nozzle into the printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Nowadays - the printer would crash into the axis limit and then stop because it would hit the software endstop (and funnily enough, be homed as a result - I have done this as an experiment on my own printers)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This would not damage the printer - just be annoying for a short time until it hits the software endstop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can however make it work like an older printer provided it does not have stall or crash sensing (like Prusas have by default) by issuing &lt;a href=&quot;https://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M211.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;code&gt;M211 S0&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This turns off the software endstops. And should allow it to continually try to reach the value programmed in the G-code. It should continue to count until it gets to XYZ_POS then finally stop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will this cause damage? Maybe. If the Z-axis is high and it can physically push its way into the printbed hard enough it can cause damage to the hotend. However, generally, most printers are designed (these days) that the Z-axis cannot go too far into the print bed and cause (too much) damage. Modified printers can be vulnerable if they modify the bed but do not physically limit the Z-axis from going down too far. Additionally, when the printer &lt;a href=&quot;https://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/G028.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;autohomes&lt;/a&gt; on print it usually will set zero to the endstop before the payload can be run, giving a home and only allowing excursion to the axis positives. When this happens, no damage can really occur outside of overheating the steppers/drivers and possibly damaging belts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are also some firmware protections to help protect the end-user (e.g. Prusa Crash Detection) - depending on the printer these may need to be circumvented as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How you can really tear up a printer? If you have physical access to it - you have total control over it. Simply being physically near it is enough for you to just throw it out a window. It's arbitrary to try to run any code. But if you're trying to research how a threat actor can mess up someone's printer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thomas Sandladerer made an excellent video on these vulnerabilities (specific to 3D printers) here: &lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/RKdsp2vrmag?start=0&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In his video, he's speaking directly on the threat of running pre-formed G-code from public sources. (Something that you should not do - something that &lt;strong&gt;no one&lt;/strong&gt; should do)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Conclusion:&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In security, physical access to a system by an untrusted person or running untrusted code on a machine is not allowed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For this vulnerability to be exploited, it requires a person to do things that they should not be doing - running generated G-code from an untrusted source. This includes from &amp;quot;friends&amp;quot; or even family.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I won't tell you how to &amp;quot;really tear up&amp;quot; a 3D printer as there are a plethora of horror stories out on the internet of printers catching fire let alone the threat of running some random code on your printer. How to do it is publicly available. You just have to figure it out yourself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The lesson here is simple: &lt;strong&gt;Just don't run pre-compiled G-code.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="32640" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2022-01-11T19:17:47.233" LastActivityDate="2022-01-11T19:17:47.233" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18720" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18721" CreationDate="2022-01-11T14:08:14.693" Score="1" ViewCount="2628" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/12153/updating-marlin-firmware-step-by-step-guide&quot;&gt;Firmware Step-by-step guide&lt;/a&gt; remarks to only mess with PID-Tuning settings in the firmware when you &lt;em&gt;know what you are doing&lt;/em&gt;. Apparently, defining those settings in the firmware is a somewhat involved process, so this begs the question:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;How do you acquire the PID-tuning settings properly and update the boars of a printer so it retains these settings&lt;/strong&gt; through power cycling?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's for simplicity assume there is a Marlin Firmware or a derivative using the same command codes is installed, so we can assume all the commands from the &lt;a href=&quot;https://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/G000-G001.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Marlin G-code repository&lt;/a&gt; work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastActivityDate="2022-02-10T15:00:35.060" Title="How to properly run a PID Tuning and update the firmware?" Tags="|marlin|knowledgebase|pid|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18721" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18720" CreationDate="2022-01-11T14:32:03.663" Score="1" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Step 0: Terminal connection&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To do any work on the settings of the board, you'll need to run a Terminal - for setting that up, please see the &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10573/what-is-a-printer-console-terminal&quot;&gt;relevant question here.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Step 1: What do we have?&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The second step is dissecting the settings that are set already. To do so, send &lt;code&gt;M503&lt;/code&gt; to read the relevant settings from the SRAM of the board and display them in the Terminal of your choice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Step 2: Try a PID Autotune&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To run a PID Autotune, just start by sending this for your first hotend to enforce a 3-cycle PID tuning for the 200 °C region:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M303.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;code&gt;M303 C3 S200&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For your second hotend, you'd send &lt;code&gt;M303 C3 E1 S200&lt;/code&gt; - the E-value is 0-indexed and defaults to 0 for the first hotend, so E1 is the second hotend.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For your heatbed (and PLA) you send &lt;code&gt;M303 C3 E-1 S60&lt;/code&gt; as -1 is the function dependant value for the heated bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Step 3: Setting the PID settings&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After having obtained the PID settings from running the tuning cycle, we need to send those to the chips. To do so use &lt;a href=&quot;https://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M301.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;code&gt;M301&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/a&gt; for a hotend and &lt;a href=&quot;https://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M304.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;code&gt;M304&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/a&gt; for the heatbed, using the given values from step 2 as parameters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note again, that if you have more than one hotend, you absolutely need to have an E-value if you try to set the second hotend, as the default value is, again, E0 for the first hotend.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Step 4: Saving&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To properly save the values into the EEPROM - provided it is enabled - is to just send one command to finalize:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M500.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;code&gt;M500&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your EEPROM is not enabled, you'd need to take the line you wrote for Step 3 and insert that into your pre-print G-code, thus overwriting the PID settings in the SRAM before each print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastActivityDate="2022-01-11T14:32:03.663" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18722" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18718" CreationDate="2022-01-11T14:59:13.587" Score="2" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Potential threat?&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can imagine that this is a potential threat for printers that are operated in an environment where there are lots of people using the printer where there is access to the SD card (e.g. schools, libraries or maker spaces). It would literally take a file on the SD card to be run the next time the printer boots to change settings through G-code. As you can imagine, it is quite easy to change the coordinates of the origin - this has been discussed in previous questions - but also speeds, endstop state and acceleration values for instance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Would it destroy a printer?&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, it can. Lead screw motion is stronger than belts, the latter will just skip, but lead screws may do some serious damage depending on the printer construction (I've had my unintentional fair share of that). But, the most obvious problem is the time that is needed to fix the problem; re-calibrating and repairing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Limited to malicious intent?&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No, managing an Ultimaker 3 Extended for a staff association I can talk from experience that it doesn't take malicious code, or intent, to mess up a printer. Working from home due to COVID-19 measures (my work needs those who can work at home to stay at home, in order to allow those who operate machines and test equipment to go to work and comply with the x people per y square meter rules that the government laid out) I have been away from the UM3E to find it in a terrible state a year later. It appeared that there have been people, that had no experience in slicing, using the wrong type of materials for slicing with respect to that was loaded into the machine... (we operate non-Ultimaker materials, so the material is not recognized by the RFID reader). The printer is now under lock and key...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2022-01-11T17:40:45.583" LastActivityDate="2022-01-11T17:40:45.583" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18723" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6387" CreationDate="2022-01-11T15:15:00.200" Score="2" Body="&lt;h3&gt;Another method - shake it off&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Taken from &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=avlengYsJdw&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Automatic 3D Print Removal using G-Code&lt;/a&gt;, by &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCVc6AHfGw9b2zOE_ZGfmsnw&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Make Anything&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/avlengYsJdw?start=0&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In order to shake the completed print from the bed, you can use an &lt;em&gt;ending script&lt;/em&gt;, like so:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VPywh.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Screenshot of ending script&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VPywh.png&quot; alt=&quot;Screenshot of ending script&quot; title=&quot;Screenshot of ending script&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See the video at &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=avlengYsJdw&amp;amp;t=165&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;2:45&lt;/a&gt; for an explanation of the scripts, both starting and ending. Note that the starting script does &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; include a wipe (for purposes of a purge), as a brim is used, which acts as a purge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The code is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;G1 X105 Y195 Z50 F3000; Move up and back&#xA;&#xA;; Make some (alert) sounds&#xA;M300 S3520 P200    ; A7&#xA;M300 S4698.63 P200 ; D8&#xA;M300 S5274.04 P200 ; E8&#xA;M300 S6271.93 P200 ; G8&#xA;&#xA;G1 X105 Y195 Z1 F3000 ; Lower&#xA;G1 X105 Y1 Z1 F2400 ; Remove print&#xA;G1 X105 Y30 Z1 F8000 ; Shake it out&#xA;G1 X105 Y1 Z1 F8000 ; Shake it out&#xA;G1 X105 Y30 Z1 F8000 ; Shake it out&#xA;&#xA;;M106 S0  ; Turn off fan&#xA;;M104 S0  ; Turn off extruder&#xA;;M140 S0  ; Turn off bed&#xA;;M84      ; Disable motors&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The guy is using an Anycubic i3 Mega, but this technique &lt;em&gt;should&lt;/em&gt; work with most other printers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;A note on the motor sounds&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With respect to the alert sounds at the start of the ending script, there is a video for making the motors emit sounds and tunes, see &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Bdf9NHAuO0w&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;I Taught My 3D Printer How to Sing ( and Dance! )&lt;/a&gt; - using &lt;code&gt;G1&lt;/code&gt;, &lt;code&gt;G4&lt;/code&gt; and, principally, &lt;code&gt;M300&lt;/code&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An example can be seen here, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gsH_oUaFmas&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;the mii channel theme but it's played using a 3D printer ♪ ♫&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See also &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/q/11056/4762&quot;&gt;Writing G-code: Audible Alert at end of print&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4762" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2022-01-12T15:38:48.937" LastActivityDate="2022-01-12T15:38:48.937" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18724" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18533" CreationDate="2022-01-11T19:58:38.557" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The horizontal bands are 5mm apart, which is a common pitch for the screws often used for the Z axis.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would look for something that binds, moves, slips, or touches once per screw revolution.  The movement repeats along the screw, so if it is a screw defect I would look for a scratch or bump that affects the screw along its axis.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't see that, check for how the screw is constrained at both ends.  If they are loose constraints, does the screw wiggle while it is turning?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Move the nut to one extreme and rotate the screw.  Does it appear to have any bend?  Even a small degree of bending that doesn't bind the axis can add a small load to the drive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Z-azis error you are looking for is subtle.  It is probably 10% (or less) of the layer height.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2082" LastActivityDate="2022-01-11T19:58:38.557" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18725" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18718" CreationDate="2022-01-11T20:11:18.497" Score="3" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Physical Access is worse&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you really want to brick a printer, physical access allows to destroy any printer physically.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you really want to mess it up only via a remote command later, you would not just run arbitrary G-code, you'd replace the firmware with one that &lt;em&gt;looks&lt;/em&gt; and &lt;em&gt;feels&lt;/em&gt; the same but contains neither &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/8466/what-is-thermal-runaway-protection&quot;&gt;Thermal Runaway Protection&lt;/a&gt; nor a Maxtemp. This way, the machine would just try to heat to arbitrary temperatures as commanded - making it possibly a fire hazard. In the worst case, installing bad Firmware is as simple as inserting a prepared SD and having the printer run a &lt;em&gt;firmware update&lt;/em&gt; to your modified version!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You see, Physical Access means any malicious person can turn a printer into what accounts to a timebomb, but as &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/18722/8884&quot;&gt;0scar&lt;/a&gt; points out, it takes no malicious intent to mess up a printer - just being bad at maintaining or using it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Network Access suffices&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's for the sake of argument assume all we have is &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10573/what-is-a-printer-console-terminal&quot;&gt;remote terminal access&lt;/a&gt; to the printer. No necessarily video feedback, just terminal access, for example via &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/tagged/octoprint&quot;&gt;Octoprint&lt;/a&gt;. This is sufficient to send arbitrary G-code, and some combinations can be outright devastating - which is why remote print servers are usually password secured and should &lt;strong&gt;never&lt;/strong&gt; be public access!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;With the right Terminal, Altering the EEPROM is easy&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have remote access and can use a terminal that allows directly altering the EEPROM, changing fundamental values like the position of the endstops or the size of the printer quite easily. Repetier Host for example can do that, but usually uses a direct physical cable - which gets us back to &lt;em&gt;Physical Access is worse&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;You worry about the wrong command&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, the worst command that with bad intent is very likely to destroy printers is the &lt;a href=&quot;https://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M500.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;code&gt;M500&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/a&gt; command to save altered values into the EEPROM. This can result in problems if G-code before the command contains code that changes basic settings that are not firmware locked.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, &lt;code&gt;M301&lt;/code&gt; with nonsensical values can force very bad PID-setting that could result, depending on how they are set up, in massively overshooting the target temperature, regularly tripping Thermal Runaway Protection or just bad prints. With Particular bad settings and with disabled TRP, one might actually turn the printer into a fire-hazard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Due to the problems &lt;code&gt;M500&lt;/code&gt; (and &lt;code&gt;M301&lt;/code&gt;) can cause, Prusaprinters/printables does not allow to upload any g-code that contains this command, but the best protection against this command is to &lt;strong&gt;NEVER&lt;/strong&gt; run G-code that you didn't compile yourself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Besides the &lt;code&gt;M500&lt;/code&gt; and M301, even the totally normal group of &lt;code&gt;M201&lt;/code&gt; to -&lt;code&gt;M203&lt;/code&gt; can really mess up a printer in not necessarily a permanent fashion without &lt;code&gt;M500&lt;/code&gt;... unless they are used to destroy the printer outright. Which can totally be done by setting ludicrous speeds and acceleration, then telling the printer that its printhead is at a height well above the bed (besides that it was just a few millimeters away) and slamming down with maximum force to pierce a hole into the bed. But as many of the feedrate commands (like M203) are used in normal prints, it's hard to spy such commands - and thus nigh impossible to spot beforehand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Blocking Malicious G-code&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some companies, fearing accidental &lt;code&gt;M500&lt;/code&gt; or other setting-altering commands, have disabled EEPROM. This however makes maintenance much harder, but prevents altering critical settings at all - they are now fixed in the firmware and have to be altered by recompiling and uploading an altered firmware. If done properly and combined with proper physical access control to the ability to upload firmware (e.g. sealed maintenance panel) can pretty much prevent malicious G-code to have any effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2022-12-17T10:06:31.733" LastActivityDate="2022-12-17T10:06:31.733" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18726" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18181" CreationDate="2022-01-11T23:21:07.943" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently had this problem and narrowed it down to the part cooling fan (on the side of the extruder head).  I diagnosed the problem by noticing that the printer would reboot shortly after the second layer started, only on PLA prints.  Of course, the part cooling fan is not usually started until after the first layer.  It was shorted and when the printer got to the second layer it would overload the power supply and cause a reboot.  Took a while to determine this, but it is worth looking at if somebody else is having this problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would guess that any shorted fan, even the extruder fans, might cause a similar issue, however, I don't know this for sure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="32654" LastActivityDate="2022-01-11T23:21:07.943" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18727" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-01-12T03:04:26.857" Score="0" ViewCount="55" Body="&lt;p&gt;For some reason whenever I turn on my printer, my nozzle says that it is at 120 °C even though it is not set at anything and my bed says that it is set at 180 °C even though it is not set to anything. I replaced my hotend and the problem is still there. Does anyone else know why this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="32655" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2022-01-12T03:57:43.817" LastActivityDate="2022-01-12T10:48:24.613" Title="Temperature problems" Tags="|temperature|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2022-01-17T22:03:48.840" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18728" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18567" CreationDate="2022-01-12T07:17:24.543" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;MS35775 appears to be TMC208 compatible.  You can find the data sheet on relmon.com here is the overview:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2-Phase stepping motor peak current of 2A&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Step / dir interface 2, 4, 8, 16, or 32 microstep&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Internal 256 micro steps&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Quiet mode&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fast mode&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;HS Rdson 0.29 Ω ,LS Rdson 0.28 Ω&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Voltage range 4.75 ~ 36V&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When the motor is still, it will enter into the power saving mode automatically&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Internal resistor mode is optional (no need for external sense resistor)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Single wire UART bus and OTP control&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;QFN28 package&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="32660" LastActivityDate="2022-01-12T07:17:24.543" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18729" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18727" CreationDate="2022-01-12T10:26:02.330" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a common problem that affects many printer types, and is caused by the fact that most controller boards do not have over-voltage protection on thermistor (temperature sensor) inputs. If the thermistor wires come into electrical contact with the heater wires (with the printer switched on and the heaters running), this can ruin the analogue to digital convertor (ADC) circuits on the printer's microcontroller. The only solution is to replace the controller board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This problem typically occurs when users are performing essential maintenance on their printers. For example, when trying to remove filament that has accumulated around the hot end during a print failure. Never try to remove filament with the printer switched on (and never use a wire brush to do so). If you need to pre-heat the hot end to soften the filament, always switch the printer off before attempting to remove the filament, and try to ensure that the thermistor wires are not damaged in any way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are controller boards that have over-voltage protection on thermistor inputs, although this is still fairly uncommon. The BigTreeTech SKR 2 (not to be confused with the SKR 1.4 V2) has such protection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3953" LastEditorUserId="3953" LastEditDate="2022-01-12T10:48:24.613" LastActivityDate="2022-01-12T10:48:24.613" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18730" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18713" CreationDate="2022-01-12T10:48:17.853" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;With the right material, you could print the gear and then sinter it, resulting in actual metal gears. However, 80 % metal-filled PLA is at the lowest border to achieve this, and a lot of that technology is patented.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Filamet&lt;sup&gt;TM&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Filamet&lt;sup&gt;TM&lt;/sup&gt; is a &lt;a href=&quot;https://shop.thevirtualfoundry.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Virtual Foundry&lt;/a&gt; product that contains around &lt;strong&gt;80-92 %&lt;/strong&gt; metal powder of 100-400 µm particle size, suspended in a carrier. The carrier material is supposedly PLA or at least functionally similar. The resulting filament is highly abrasive, requiring stainless steel&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; to print more than short sections. The high metal content also gives the material a &lt;em&gt;memory&lt;/em&gt; of its spooled-up shape. This demands extra special treatment during printing to prevent snapping the filament in the shape of a pre-heater to get it spooled off properly. The same company also offers similar products for ceramics. After printing, the models are burned-out and sintered in an oven at very high temperatures. This sintering is done in a crucible filled with carbon and alumina, burning out the PLA carrier while retaining the shape. Their material-making process is &lt;a href=&quot;https://thevirtualfoundry.com/2019/11/21/the-virtual-foundry-wins-a-patent-for-the-process-used-to-produce-its-extrudable-plastic-infused-materials/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;patented&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.freepatentsonline.com/y2018/0193912.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;(patent itself)&lt;/a&gt; and covers all their metal, ceramic, and glass materials.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sub&gt;1 - or something even more hardy, like an &lt;a href=&quot;https://web.archive.org/web/20210707122849/http://olssonruby.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Olsson Ruby&lt;/a&gt; by &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dverkstan.se/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;3DVerkstan&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;MetalX&lt;sup&gt;TM&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The MetalX&lt;sup&gt;TM&lt;/sup&gt; system by &lt;a href=&quot;https://markforged.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Markforged&lt;/a&gt; uses a special printer and proprietary &lt;em&gt;Bound Powder Metal Filament&lt;/em&gt; that contains an unknown plastic binder. A lot of this machine and surrounding peripheries are &lt;a href=&quot;https://markforged.com/patents&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;patented&lt;/a&gt; and information spare. Among others, their &lt;a href=&quot;https://patents.justia.com/patent/10076875&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;method of creating composite filaments&lt;/a&gt; and their &lt;a href=&quot;https://patents.justia.com/patent/10377083&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;binder material, support material &amp;amp; sintering process&lt;/a&gt; are only described in patents. From their advertisement I could deduce the following process: The MetalX printer prints the item with unknown print settings, resulting in a raw item containing metal and the binder. After wash-cleaning using a liquid known as Opteon&lt;sup&gt;TM&lt;/sup&gt; SF79 &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.opteon.de/-/media/files/opteon/opteon-sf79-cleaning-fluid.pdf?rev=082d2f050b3440e8b47f8dd9b58324a9&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;(Datasheet)&lt;/a&gt; to remove the specialty binder, the sintering happens in a free oven at 1300 °C, leaving behind a metal product. Free oven means here, that the printed part is not embedded in a filled crucible like with Filamet&lt;sup&gt;TM&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sub&gt;Disclaimer: I am not affiliated with either Virtual Foundry, Markforged, 3DVerkstan, any of their products or affiliates.&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastActivityDate="2022-01-12T10:48:17.853" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18731" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-01-12T16:03:09.493" Score="1" ViewCount="461" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;TL;DR;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;If I calibrate my Y-axis steps/mm based on the long side of the model shown below, the calibration cube part is printed too big. If I calibrate the steps/mm based on the calibration cube part, the long side of the model comes out too short. Any ideas/hints on what the problem is?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have an Anycubic Chiron 3D printer without any technical modifications. For calibration purposes, I created a specific design that allows for measuring longer and shorter lengths as well as the diameter of holes. I mainly did this because an error in the settings of steps/mm will be more visible on a larger print and holes often came out too small for me in my prints. You can find pictures of my design below.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, I have three other printers (Artillery Sidewinder X1, Tronxy X5SA-400, Geeetech A30T) that print the model OK. Whenever there is a problem with the X- and Y-steps/mm setting it will be equally visible on the shorter &amp;quot;calibration cube&amp;quot; part of the model as well as on the longer parts. While for the latter 3 printers this expectation holds true, the Chiron produces different results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I calibrate the steps/mm for the Y-axis based on the long side correctly, the calibration cube part is off by about +0.2 mm. Of course, if I calibrate the steps/mm based on the calibration cube part, the long side is too short. This really confuses me as I would have expected that a potential error would be visible on both parts of the model.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The error can be observed consistently. The prints come out OK, just the measurements are off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My first guess was that it might have something to do with the extruder, but I calibrated the extruder several times already without luck. My second guess would be that it might have something to do with the nozzle size not being accurate. Last not least, maybe some steps could be missed consistently by the motor on longer lines because the stepper voltage is not correctly set? I'm just speculating...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I already checked the belt, belt tension and the pulleys. It is also not important on which part of the bed I print. I also replaced the stepper drivers (A4988) by TMC2208 drivers as I had these available from another project. No luck, though, same result with the new drivers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any help/hint is appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/b2Oeg.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Photo of a calibration model&quot; title=&quot;Photo of a calibration model&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/huHbh.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Photo of a calibration model with a different view&quot; title=&quot;Photo of a calibration model with a different view&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="32664" LastEditorUserId="32664" LastEditDate="2022-01-13T22:42:14.993" LastActivityDate="2022-01-13T22:42:14.993" Title="Calibration of Y-axis produces different results on single model with different length even after E-step calibration" Tags="|calibration|anycubic-chiron|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18732" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18181" CreationDate="2022-01-12T16:08:37.067" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had a similar problem with my Ender 3 that started after relocating the power supply to a (3D printed) bracket to give additional clearance from the edge of the bed (it was touching the magnetic build sheet, potentially causing prints to lift or warp at +X +Y corner).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I found was that the brackets I had printed allowed enough movement of power supply to make the 24V output connection intermittent, even despite tightening the slip-on terminal.  I solved the problem by printing another bracket piece that constrains the top of the power supply as well as the bottom (in the originally printed bracket); I haven't had a random restart during a print since then.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28508" LastActivityDate="2022-01-12T16:08:37.067" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18736" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-01-12T17:02:34.663" Score="-1" ViewCount="920" Body="&lt;p&gt;Looking for alternatives to Nylon PA12. I need a material that is extremely impact resistant, durable and can be left outside. PA12 performs like a dream but it warps intensely on thick parts, so I'm stuck with ASA for now which is rather weak.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've tried different PA6 blends, Taulman 910, CF and GF filled Nylons, they are brittle and all inferior to ASA. I tried looking for Taulman 230 or 618 but they don't seem to be produced anymore and are out of stock everywhere except eBay.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30842" LastEditorUserId="30842" LastEditDate="2022-01-21T15:04:04.490" LastActivityDate="2024-02-10T20:03:35.407" Title="Alternative to PA12" Tags="|filament-choice|nylon|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="15" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18738" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-01-13T01:39:19.150" Score="0" ViewCount="204" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I've just done a full upgrade to my machine in by no means a beginner but this issue is stumping me, and a few other veterans that I've asked.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ejP7a.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Lower portion of a 3D Benchy with printing errors&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ejP7a.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Lower portion of a 3D Benchy with printing errors&quot; title=&quot;Lower portion of a 3D Benchy with printing errors&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wWgWK.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;A 3D Benchy being printed with printing errors on the lower portion&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wWgWK.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;A 3D Benchy being printed with printing errors on the lower portion&quot; title=&quot;A 3D Benchy being printed with printing errors on the lower portion&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Steps Completed:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;E-Steps extruding a perfect 100 mm in/out&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bed is perfectly Leveled to 0.1 mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Auto leveler Z offset also set so that it's 0.1 mm from bed /16 point grid&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Unassembled and rebuilt both Z stepper motor assemblies and confirmed that the height is equal across all four quarters with the gantry.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tightened off both nuts and spacer nuts of the gantry so there is no more wiggle or shifting&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I get a relatively good first layer, then for the next 7 it as in the picture barely touches the print, then after 8 layers, it starts to print perfectly fine again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm assuming it's something with my Z steppers? After the initial 8-10 layers are completed it starts to look like it's supposed to. I adjusted the z offset thinking that was that issue to have it for the same thing while having the obvious 1st layer being too close.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Same settings and filament from pre-upgrade, other than retraction settings update nothing was touched on Cura.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've run both calibration cubes, Benchy's, and bed leveling squares.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem only seems to happen after the 1st layer which comes out smooth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Extruder: Sherpa Mini Direct Drive&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Hotend: Dragonfly BMS / 0.6 mm tungsten nozzle&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Firmware: Marlin 4.xx something&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Filament: basic PLA&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Temperature: 200 °C&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Bed: 50 °C&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Speed: 75 mm/s&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="32674" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2022-01-13T04:09:58.993" LastActivityDate="2022-01-13T12:22:10.800" Title="Unusual printing after upgrading" Tags="|creality-ender-3|ultimaker-cura|diy-3d-printer|creality-ender-5|creality|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18739" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18738" CreationDate="2022-01-13T02:44:24.313" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Swapping the Z Fade to 10 completely eliminated the issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.th3dstudio.com/hc/guides/diy-guides/auto-bed-leveling-z-fade-setup-info/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Auto Bed Leveling Z Fade Setup &amp;amp; Info&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="32674" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2022-01-13T12:22:10.800" LastActivityDate="2022-01-13T12:22:10.800" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18740" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-01-13T04:30:29.410" Score="0" ViewCount="243" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just installed a BLTouch on my Ender 5 but I'm having trouble installing/editing the firmware. After watching a few YouTube videos, I figured going to the GitHub BTT Marlin repository (because I have a Bigtreetech E3 mini V2 board in it) would be easiest. After leveling the bed without issues, I attempted a print but it started way too high (20-30 mm above the bed). I know there is some type of offset I need to change but I don't know where it would be. My first thought was editing some of the configuration files in VS-Code before installing it on the printer but I downloaded the pre-compiled firmware.bin on GitHub that was already set up for the Ender-5 with a BTT E3 mini V2 board and a BLTouch. Is there anything I can do on the printer or in OctoPrint or should I start from scratch and edit the original Marlin files?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30837" LastActivityDate="2022-06-14T20:01:30.213" Title="Ender 5 BlTouch Install" Tags="|bltouch|creality-ender-5|bigtreetech|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18741" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16586" CreationDate="2022-01-13T04:46:11.327" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have the exact same issue.  I still haven't figured out what is going on, but my next step is to work backwards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I brought my machine in for repairs at our local shop, and the end result was &amp;quot;heat creep&amp;quot; .  It worked for a few prints, then stopped.  It jammed on me and in the process of removing the jam, I broke the leads to the heat block.  When I decide to go back in, I will see if when I reassembled the extruder, I knocked off enough thermal paste to make a difference...  :(&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="32677" LastActivityDate="2022-01-13T04:46:11.327" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18742" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18746" CreationDate="2022-01-13T09:12:26.117" Score="1" ViewCount="225" Body="&lt;p&gt;I need to replace my heatbreak on my Anet A6 since I pushed out the PTFE tube when my filament got clogged...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The current heatbreak has a length of 40 mm, but, the shop I'm buying from only sells the 30 mm or 35 mm (the 40 mm is out of stock).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I just install a 35 mm heatbreak? Or even a 30 mm? Or is the 40 mm crucial in the design of the Anet A6?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14805" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2022-01-13T12:33:42.030" LastActivityDate="2022-01-14T08:01:53.910" Title="Using a shorter heatbreak on the Anet A6" Tags="|anet-a6|heat-break|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18743" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18755" CreationDate="2022-01-13T14:11:38.770" Score="1" ViewCount="515" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had a hard time printing some parts as the brim was printed very well contrary to the first layer, wall, and especially infill. I noticed that filament lines were too thin when printing walls, infill, and the first layer. So the first layer was not sticking to each other.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suspected that the slicer was the first to investigate, so I printed a model which I already printed before from SD Card and the newly printed part has the exact problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Suspecting that filament thread gets cooled very soon so we tried:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Printing with more Nozzle Temp (225 °C).&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Result: Walls adhered better but still not strong in addition to weak infill.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Then turned on Fan Automatic Control&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Result: more nice walls with still weak infill.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Setup:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Creality CR-10 Smart 3D Printer&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cura Slicer&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Material eSUN PLA+ White&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Nozzle 0.4 mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;10 % Infill&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;30 % infill overlap percentage&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;0.32 mm infill layer thickness.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ilMVL.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Closeup view of a printed model with lots of filament 'threads'&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ilMVL.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Closeup view of a printed model with lots of filament 'threads'&quot; title=&quot;Closeup view of a printed model with lots of filament 'threads'&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vUki8.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Small printed model with layer lines not adhering&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vUki8.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Small printed model with layer lines not adhering&quot; title=&quot;Small printed model with layer lines not adhering&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="32434" LastEditorUserId="32434" LastEditDate="2022-01-16T09:10:02.620" LastActivityDate="2022-01-20T15:18:19.133" Title="CR-10 Smart with weak infill" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|creality-cr-10|infill|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18744" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-01-13T14:28:35.087" Score="1" ViewCount="22" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have tried connecting via Repertier, Pronterface, and OctoPrint.  All of them fail to get a response from the handshake attempts.  The OctoPrint &amp;quot;AUTO&amp;quot; setting will automatically try all common BAUDRATE values. Just to be safe, I just tried setting each of the 7 available baudrates manually and then connecting. They all timed out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The board runs preloaded Marlin firmware, but I don't know much beyond that.  The board is a BTT SKR v1.4 if that helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can run all axis motors and heating elements from the display, and the PC (or RPI) will detect the USB port is active when connected to the printer, so the board seems to be good, I just can't get connected.  There is virtually no support documentation that I can find for getting connected, and I emailed the PowerBelt3D company three days ago but haven't gotten a response, so any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="32684" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2022-01-14T15:10:47.887" LastActivityDate="2022-01-14T15:10:47.887" Title="Can't connect PowerBelt3D Zero to Print Server" Tags="|marlin|octoprint|bigtreetech|belt-printer|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18745" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-01-13T21:10:59.997" Score="0" ViewCount="426" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am a beginner at 3D printing. I use:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Phrozen Sonic Mini 4K&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Chitubox&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In Chitubox, there are some resin profiles preloaded and selectable. There also is the possibility to import profiles (.cfg file format).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I don't seem to be able to find a .cfg profile file for the Phrozen ABS-like resin so that I could import it in Chitubox.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Am I misunderstanding some concept here? Why can I not find a .cfg-file for the ABS-like resin?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="32686" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2022-01-13T21:40:43.457" LastActivityDate="2022-01-13T21:40:43.457" Title="Phrozen ABS-like resin profile (.cfg File) for Chitubox, where to download it?" Tags="|resin|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18746" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18742" CreationDate="2022-01-14T08:01:53.910" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;This hotend design is called a Mk8 type/style hotend, based on the Mk8 Makerbot design. You should get the 40 mm length heatbreak, this option gives you some extra space, a shorter heatbreak will result in changing the Z-endstop height or raise the bed (if the endstop is fixed).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/St78t.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/St78t.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The 30 mm will for sure be too short and result in a gap in the heat conducting element, the 35 mm might work. You can source the heatbreaks from typical online market places for about a dollar you get 5 pieces, order these while you try if the 35 mm version works for you (depending on endstop and bed).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2022-01-14T08:01:53.910" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18747" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16793" CreationDate="2022-01-14T08:24:48.480" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you check TH3D's site, as of January 12, 2022, there's an updated Unified 2 firmware(Unified 2.36a) that is meant to correct this problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Announcement is here: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.th3dstudio.com/2022/01/12/unified-2-36a-is-now-live-firmware-update/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Unified 2.36a is now live! | Firmware Update&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Release Notes:&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Bugfixes&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Disable ABL fade height by default&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fix EZBoard V2 DIY Config Driver Type Setting&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Other Changes&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Update URLs in config files to support articles&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Improve EZABL mount wording for more user clarity&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="32688" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2022-01-14T16:34:29.950" LastActivityDate="2022-01-14T16:34:29.950" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18748" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18749" CreationDate="2022-01-14T10:16:19.663" Score="1" ViewCount="195" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a weird problem that I can't seems to find an answer for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm using SuperSlicer with my Ender3 + OctroPrint setup.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The prints on the bed in SuperSlicer is perfectly straight&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8yg86.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8yg86.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, it seems that when my printer is moving in a straight Y-axis line, there is some kind of linear multiplier on the X-axis because it moves slooowly to the side causing the print to be pretty perfectly rotated on the physical bed as seen in Octoprint and also on the real physical bed (luckily my physical bed is slightly to large so I don't go outside of it).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sr5Wk.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sr5Wk.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know there is some kind of setting for this which is used for Z-offset with probe, but I can't seem to find it, and it seems weird that it has been set for the X and Y axis. I don't know if that is what really causing this, because I've never touched those settings on this printer before &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyone got an idea?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="32690" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2022-01-14T11:52:56.503" LastActivityDate="2022-01-14T15:02:42.500" Title="Print is rotated perfectly on bed, while straight in the slicer. X-axis moves slowly while printing a straight Y-axis line" Tags="|creality-ender-3|marlin|troubleshooting|octoprint|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18749" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18748" CreationDate="2022-01-14T12:19:42.617" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The print is &lt;strong&gt;not rotated at all&lt;/strong&gt; on the print bed, the OctoPrint image is exactly the same as the image of SuperSlicer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What you see is the skirt being printed misleading you into thinking the whole print is rotated! As the rectangles in the corners are aligned in the middle of the rectangles, the skirt is made of 4 skew lines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this print prints outside of the bed (in your case the bed is large enough to not cause problems) you are facing the issue that the print bed is incorrectly centered (the hotend to be precise). To have your prints print in exactly the same position as you slice them in the slicer, you could look into &lt;a href=&quot;/q/6375&quot;&gt;How to center my prints on the build platform? (Re-calibrate homing offset)&lt;/a&gt;, this describes how to determine the offsets from the end stops should be set to get the center of the slicer in the center of your printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2022-01-14T15:02:42.500" LastActivityDate="2022-01-14T15:02:42.500" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18750" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-01-14T17:27:54.760" Score="0" ViewCount="47" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Creality CR-10S5 and am printing a large ocean liner model in sections. The problem I am coming up against is that when the person built the model, the 100's of portholes extend into the interior of the model. I've had issues where the long end of the porthole on the interior of the model as it is printing starts to bend upward and has interrupted the path of the extruder and it starts printing about an inch to left on the X-axis.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was wondering if anyone knew of an easier way than bringing it into Meshmixer or Fusion and individually cutting these long porthole extensions I will call them away from the inside of the model. I've tried using the hollow out feature but they still remain. I've thought about cutting them along a plane in Fusion but that would slice the entire model.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="32695" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2022-01-14T18:22:49.263" LastActivityDate="2022-01-15T05:18:53.480" Title="Editing stl files for unwanted multiple parts" Tags="|3d-models|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2022-01-17T22:04:33.160" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18751" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18750" CreationDate="2022-01-14T20:40:16.313" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have no other components to the vessel intruding into the volume of the model, consider to create a suitably primitive shape centered in the hull. By creating a boolean union, the new primitive will &amp;quot;absorb&amp;quot; the empty space and terminate the noodles. The result will be a hollow model, more or less as the original, but with a thicker wall.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastActivityDate="2022-01-14T20:40:16.313" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18752" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-01-15T01:40:40.400" Score="0" ViewCount="235" Body="&lt;p&gt;My model is purely quads, (I know about tris/quads for .stl files and other formats, etc.) but when I import it in slicer software (Ultimaker Cura), it changes the topology (and that repeating triangular shape is very visible on the print). Is this just how 3D printers work, or can I change the settings somewhere to make it go away?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EP44q.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EP44q.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="32701" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2022-01-15T05:16:29.170" LastActivityDate="2022-01-16T14:55:30.157" Title="Topology problems" Tags="|print-quality|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18754" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18740" CreationDate="2022-01-15T18:56:21.250" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;After some research, the BlTouch can be wired to the mainboard two different ways; the 2 pin wires (that were black and white in the kit I bought) are able to plug into the probe spot with the 3 pin wires or they can replace the z-end-stop. I ended up replacing the z-end-stop wires with the 2 pin wires and downloaded pre-compiled firmware from GitHub.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30837" LastActivityDate="2022-01-15T18:56:21.250" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18755" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18743" CreationDate="2022-01-16T13:00:44.620" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;To solve this problem, I tweaked the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Infill Pattern&lt;/strong&gt;: Some patterns tend to be more solid than others, going back to &lt;strong&gt;Grid&lt;/strong&gt; instead of &lt;strong&gt;Cubic&lt;/strong&gt; ensuring that there is a solid base for infill to avoid layer shift in infill as &lt;strong&gt;Cubic&lt;/strong&gt; infill is printed in a slanted angle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Infill layer height&lt;/strong&gt;: It seems that the CR-10 Smart is unable to print 0.32 mm infill layer height.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Lowering infill speed&lt;/strong&gt;: going from 75 mm/sec to 50 mm/sec as 75 mm/sec infill speed was too much for the extruder as it was unable to keep up with the speed so you will start to notice under-extrusion on the inside of your part,  This under-extrusion will tend to create weak, stringy infill since the nozzle is not able to extrude as much plastic as the software would like.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Attached below the difference between 0.16 mm infill layer height on the right, the model is sturdy and strong.&#xA;0.32 mm infill layer height on the left, the model is weak and stringy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CqxNT.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Two 3D printed models with 0.16 mm infill vs 0.32 mm infill&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CqxNT.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Two 3D printed models with 0.16 mm infill vs 0.32 mm infill&quot; title=&quot;Two 3D printed models with 0.16 mm infill vs 0.32 mm infill&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On my try to print a large scale print the same problem occurred,  very weak infill, which drove me crazy !&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Addressing the real problem &amp;quot;Under-Extrusion&amp;quot; .. testing extruder I noticed that there is a crack on the feeder box&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tGogl.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Cracked Feeder&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my opinion it's a bad decision to go for plastic for the feeder, their design uses the lever to shift the plastic box which has the idler pulley (fixed on it) to relieve the pressure on filament.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3GbgR.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;CR10Smart feeder design&quot; /&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ArHBw.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;inside of feeder&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The crack on feeder weakened the grip on filament, causing slippage making the filament to be extruded too thin, which made the filament too weak to stick to each other.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Changing extruder to aluminium kit feeder with tight grip on filament ensured that filament is pushed correctly without slipping and also stopped stringing while nozzle is heating.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Print on left after applying the fix.&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/u4unY.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;before&amp;amp;after&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hopes this save someone's the trouble.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="32434" LastEditorUserId="32434" LastEditDate="2022-01-20T15:18:19.133" LastActivityDate="2022-01-20T15:18:19.133" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18756" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18752" CreationDate="2022-01-16T14:55:30.157" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;STL does not know quads: STL only knows trigons, defined by three vertices and the normal that belongs to this trigon, though there are extra properties that each trigon can have (such as color). When saving a quad as STL, it has to be converted into two trigons next to one another. The problems appear when some quads have a single point that is not contained in the plane created by the three others: What works as a bend quad, can be solved as two different Trigons: ABC+CDA is jsut as valid as ABD+BCD - but one has a high ridge, the other has a low valley.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To fix such topology issues, you need to convert to trigons &lt;em&gt;first&lt;/em&gt; then export as STL. To correct such errors after exporting, a 3D modeling software that can alter Vertex Edge and Surface level details is needed. Blender is such a solution and free, though with a somewhat steep learning curve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might be able to fix your surface by carefully merging vertices until your surface does not have the ridges you encounter - because they are already in your model.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastActivityDate="2022-01-16T14:55:30.157" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18757" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18764" CreationDate="2022-01-16T16:50:03.837" Score="1" ViewCount="1984" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm running a stock Ender 5 pro with the filament that came with it, and using Creality Slicer 4.8.2, but I'm only able to get reliable bed adhesion if I increase the bed temperature from 50 to 60 °C for the bottom layer and decrease the print head speed by about 75 % from the default profile for the Ender 5.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The machine is absolutely stock, and is fresh out of the box except for bed levelling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I used the default bed leveling print and that came out well, so I'm reasonably certain that it's not a bed leveling issue. The problem seems to be with models that I've made myself in blender and exported as STL files.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In all cases the raft that was generated by the Creality software has printed out perfectly, but the print has only partially gone down when it came to the model itself. &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sdXA1.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="29097" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2022-01-17T22:20:22.180" LastActivityDate="2023-08-23T18:31:30.380" Title="Why does the first layer only adhere to bed if I increase the temperature by 10 °C and drop the speed by 75 %" Tags="|adhesion|creality-ender-5|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18758" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18757" CreationDate="2022-01-17T03:12:40.170" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Assuming Creality's stock firmware still doesn't have Linear Advance enabled, there's a fairly hard requirement to go slow on the first layer. This is because, as the toolhead accelerates up to higher speed without advancing the extruder extra to compensate for the backpressure in the filament-path/nozzle, you'll have an interval of underextrusion, giving less contact area for the extruded material to cling to the bed at the same time there's added force pulling it in a direction parallel to the bed surface. This becomes less critical to adhesion starting with the second layer, since the new material is bonding to itself rather than just trying to stick to a bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having the bed hot will help it stick better and maybe even help reduce the pressure at the nozzle by reducing the heat loss, so it might work around the problem. But in general, you don't want to be in a situation where a few degrees of temperature difference are the cutoff between a failed print and a successful one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway, do all the usual stuff to improve bed adhesion, and especially make sure your bed height is as close to perfect as you can get it, if you want moderately fast printing to work. But don't be surprised if you need to upgrade to a version of Marlin with Linear Advance (or to Klipper) to get successful high-speed first layers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2022-01-17T03:12:40.170" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18759" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15084" CreationDate="2022-01-17T06:49:28.373" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;That is perfectly viable these days in Marlin firmware, there are options for setting this up using the configuration file, e.g.:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;// :[0, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8]&#xA;#define EXTRUDERS 1&#xA;...&#xA;...&#xA;...&#xA;// A dual extruder that uses a single stepper motor&#xA;//#define SWITCHING_EXTRUDER&#xA;#if ENABLED(SWITCHING_EXTRUDER)&#xA;  #define SWITCHING_EXTRUDER_SERVO_NR 0&#xA;  #define SWITCHING_EXTRUDER_SERVO_ANGLES { 0, 90 } // Angles for E0, E1[, E2, E3]&#xA;  #if EXTRUDERS &amp;gt; 3&#xA;    #define SWITCHING_EXTRUDER_E23_SERVO_NR 1&#xA;  #endif&#xA;#endif&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2022-01-17T06:49:28.373" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18760" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18757" CreationDate="2022-01-17T11:25:02.240" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Looking at the image, the deposited filament lines do not connect. If we consider that you have the correct filament width in your slicer and the correct amount of steps per millimeter for the extruder or no problem with extruding is present, your initial bed to nozzle gap might be too large, level with a thinner piece of paper or subtract a few tenths, see &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/4746/&quot;&gt;this answer&lt;/a&gt; for redefining the Z-height. Alternatively use a slicer option called “Z offset setting”, see &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/7265/&quot;&gt;this answer&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why does the first layer only adhere to bed if I increase the temperature by 10 °C and drop the speed by 75 %&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the nozzle gap is a little too large, the filament doesn't get squished enough for proper adhesion. This is seen as non-connecting filament lines. It looks as if the nozzle is under-extruding, but if that has been checked, a larger initial gap has the same effect. If you increase bed and or hot end temperature and slow down, the filament gets time to adhere properly, even when the gap is larger.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2022-01-17T22:21:09.353" LastActivityDate="2022-01-17T22:21:09.353" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18761" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18768" CreationDate="2022-01-17T15:44:07.930" Score="3" ViewCount="1879" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there a machine (for hobbyists) that will make filament based on the type of plastic I put in. I will sort the plastic before I will put it in the machine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have seen the &lt;a href=&quot;http://filabot.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;filabot&lt;/a&gt; but this uses only plastic from previous prints not plastic types Polyethylene Terephthalate (PET or PETE) or High-Density Polyethylene (HDPE) (these are the #1 or #2 plastic types listed at &lt;a href=&quot;https://plasticoceans.org/7-types-of-plastic/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;plasticoceans.org&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To reiterate:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I am asking if there is a machine that can turn a plastic bottle into usable filament.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I want to know if there is a machine (currently on the market) that will make filament, based on the type of plastic I put in.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I &lt;em&gt;will&lt;/em&gt; sort the plastic &lt;em&gt;before&lt;/em&gt; I will put it in the machine... so,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;sorted waste in ---&amp;gt; sorted filament out&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31762" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2022-01-18T23:19:13.240" LastActivityDate="2022-01-23T09:20:21.150" Title="Plastic bottles to filament" Tags="|filament|recycling|plastic|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18762" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18761" CreationDate="2022-01-17T15:57:41.873" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The source of the plastic doesn't matter a lot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What matters is the plastic's composition and chemistry and how well shredded it is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Issues are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is it a thermoplast that can be remelted?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is the working melt temperature range compatible with your printer and/or the filament forming machine?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is the plastic chemically compatible with the components of the machines and the print platform you are using in the 3d printer? (If it isn't, it either will stick when it shouldn't or won't stick when it should.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is the plastic shredded enough for the filament reforming machine to use it?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is the flexibility of the remelted plastic suitable for 3d printing, or does it need volatile plasticizers added to make it soft enough to handle as filament?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other factors may also be a problem.  For example, PLA, TPU, and PETG are fairly temperature stable, but other plastics have high thermal expansion rates that can cause warping during 3d printing.  There are a few ways to compensate for that however.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the plastic is contaminated with other plastics or non-soluble inks or labels, this must be removed first, or the results may be weak or not melt evenly or leave debris in the extrusion nozzle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not only must the plastic be chemically compatible, but also there are tuning parameters such as temperature profiles, cooling speed, and extrusion speed that have to be calibrated to the plastic to get good filament.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If all of these things are OK then it might be possible to use a machine to reform plastic from any source into filament.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28397" LastEditorUserId="28397" LastEditDate="2022-01-19T00:24:33.987" LastActivityDate="2022-01-19T00:24:33.987" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18763" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-01-17T17:11:15.420" Score="1" ViewCount="450" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have used this 3D printer for over a year now and I just now started running into this problem. It is an Anycubic Chiron with no mods or anything custom added. It is placed in a cabinet my dad and I built to keep the heat in during the winter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem started when the power went out. I came to the printer when the power was restored and it displayed the message, &amp;quot;The printer is sensing a lack a filament.&amp;quot; So, I restarted it. It was no longer displaying that message, so I continued printing with it. Now, whenever I print anything longer than 10-20 minutes, it will randomly pause. Displaying the option to continue the print or stop the print. How can I fix this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="32739" LastEditorUserId="32739" LastEditDate="2022-02-02T01:14:02.707" LastActivityDate="2022-02-02T01:14:02.707" Title="3D Printer keeps pausing during prints" Tags="|troubleshooting|anycubic-chiron|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18764" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18757" CreationDate="2022-01-17T22:52:13.857" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your bed is too low - raise it by turning the knobs underneath.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first layer should not look like strings sitting on the bed as per your photo.  Instead it should be a wider strip that looks somewhat like an electronic circuit trace, or like someone has pushed wet paint out of a tube that is being wiped across the surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My method is to head the bed with &amp;quot;preheat&amp;quot; in the menu, and let it sit at printing temp for at least 5 minutes.  This avoids the heater being at temp but the top of the glass bed being cool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then start your job.  As the brim or skirt is printed, actively watch it in person and twiddle the height knobs  a quarter turn at a time.  You want the &amp;quot;end view&amp;quot; or cross sectional view of the printed filament to be like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt; _____&amp;lt;==&amp;gt;_____&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and not like this&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt; ______0______&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and definitely not like this&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;       0&#xA;_______________&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the head starts scratching the bed, you've gone too far so lower the bed back down again (effectively raising the print head a little)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a print in progress trying to show a better brim.  Notice eachgstrand is ovalised and mushed down.  That brim will come off in one piece afterward.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Vis5Z.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Vis5Z.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12956" LastEditorUserId="12956" LastEditDate="2022-01-18T20:23:45.350" LastActivityDate="2022-01-18T20:23:45.350" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18765" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-01-18T01:23:40.587" Score="1" ViewCount="506" Body="&lt;p&gt;As there is no limit switch on the operator end of the Y (Y-), what stops its travel when the print is done?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="32741" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2022-01-18T01:39:56.960" LastActivityDate="2022-01-18T07:41:02.817" Title="Ender3 V2: What stops the Y?" Tags="|creality-ender-3|endstop|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18766" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18765" CreationDate="2022-01-18T01:39:44.310" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There only need to be one physical endstop on each axis, if the printer has the dimensions of the printer programmed in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Ender3 has its dimensions defined in the firmware, so once homed and then moved to 0 (the end stop and 0 can be different!), the printer won't move willingly out of the orthogonal-space that is positioned between &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$$\matrix {0\\0\\0} \to\matrix{maxX\\ maxY\\ maxZ}$$&lt;/span&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Where these are can be manipulated with the right software, as the printer in running operation takes the values from the EEPROM - which can be directly altered by for example a &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10573/what-is-a-printer-console-terminal&quot;&gt;terminal akin to Repetier Host.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2022-01-18T07:41:02.817" LastActivityDate="2022-01-18T07:41:02.817" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18767" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-01-18T13:08:10.140" Score="1" ViewCount="309" Body="&lt;p&gt;So first of all I want to say, that I'm fairly new to 3D printing. I'm currently calibrating different things because I've got a little problem with rough walls. The last thing I did was increase the belt tension for X and Y a little bit. I now wanted to print a calibration cube with these new settings. Therefore I sliced the cube with Cura and started the print. Around 20 minutes into the print, I heard this weird sound and immediately stopped the print. Somehow the printer crashed into the printed cube. The adhesion to the plate was a little too good so the head got completely stuck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I moved the head up and removed the print. It's pretty obvious looking at it, that for some weird reason the printer dropped the nozzle around 5 mm down. I tested all motors and axis, but everything seems to work alright. So the next thing I checked, was the G-code. I measured the height of my cube and found Z to be around 13.2 mm when it crashed. I don't know much about G-code, but I checked every Z movement between 12.7-13.5 mm and didn't find any value to be out of this range.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have no idea what to check next. But I guess there has to be a major problem with my printer if this just happens. Maybe some of you have more ideas about what to check.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Printer: Anycubic i3 Mega S&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Firmware: Standard&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Slicer: Cura 4.13&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Fs6rR.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Half printed model with burn marks&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Fs6rR.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Half printed model with burn marks&quot; title=&quot;Half printed model with burn marks&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/N2i8W.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Another view of a half printed model with burn marks&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/N2i8W.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Another view of a half printed model with burn marks&quot; title=&quot;Another view of a half printed model with burn marks&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="32749" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2022-01-18T14:08:00.603" LastActivityDate="2022-01-19T12:27:50.877" Title="Printer crashed into model" Tags="|z-axis|calibration|print-failure|anycubic-i3-mega|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18768" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18761" CreationDate="2022-01-18T17:57:27.050" Score="5" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am asking if there is a machine that can turn a plastic bottle into usable filament.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've seen several projects (&lt;a href=&quot;https://hackaday.com/2021/06/29/petbot-turn-pet-bottles-into-filament/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;one example&lt;/a&gt;, and &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/Eecbdb0bQWQ&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;another&lt;/a&gt;) where plastic bottles are sliced into long tapes, and the tape is then fed through an extruder. It's a somewhat simpler process than shredding bottles and then melting and extruding the shreds; since the tape is already a long strand, you're really just reforming it into a round filament suitable for use in a printer. Forming the tape from the bottle requires little more than a razor blade and a handful of hardware, and you can pull the tape through the extruder instead of forcing shreds through with a screw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some of the drawbacks are that the process can't use the top and bottom of the bottle, and getting consistent results still requires some automation. Also, the process as shown only creates filament from a single bottle, so the length of the filament is limited by the size of the bottle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to know if there is a machine (currently on the market) that will make filament, based on the type of plastic I put in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Filabot extruder that you mentioned will accept and extrude a wide variety of plastics, and the same should be true of any commercial or DIY extruder as long as it can get hot enough to melt the material you're supplying. Also, you can only extrude thermoplastic materials; thermoset materials won't work. By definition, thermoplastic materials are those that become soft and malleable when heated, while thermoset materials don't. So you can make filament from PLA, ABS, PET, PEEK, and many others. The material you supply might not always work well for FDM printing, though, or might work better in some printers than in others. For example, filament made from a PET soda bottle will be harder and more brittle than the PETG that's preferred for 3D printing, so you might have better luck using it in a printer with a direct extruder rather than one with a Bowden setup.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1690" LastEditorUserId="1690" LastEditDate="2022-01-18T21:16:40.963" LastActivityDate="2022-01-18T21:16:40.963" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18769" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18770" CreationDate="2022-01-18T20:23:38.553" Score="0" ViewCount="344" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am trying to replace a Mk8 heatbreak on my printer. But which orientation do I need to put into the heatblock? The left image or the right image? Note that this specific heatbreak is missing a PTFE tube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tIJLnm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tIJLnm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;   &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Q3Gnmm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Q3Gnmm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I quickly looked at the other questions on this forum but could not find a clear result with images.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14805" LastActivityDate="2022-01-18T20:36:16.903" Title="Replacing PTFE tube in Mk8 heatbreak" Tags="|heat-break|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18770" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18769" CreationDate="2022-01-18T20:36:16.903" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The PTFE liner should be in contact with the nozzle, and is normally cut half a millimetre over-size to ensure that it remains in contact.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3953" LastActivityDate="2022-01-18T20:36:16.903" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18772" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18761" CreationDate="2022-01-19T09:10:18.083" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are 2 parameters you need to have good control over when printing any filament:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Melting temperature&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Diameter&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of these, the melting temperature is directly correlated to the chemical composition of the polymer blend in the filament while diameter control is part of the manufacturing process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And for 3D printing, we need to take a look at the usability of the material itself. For example, pure PET is not easy to print at all and as used in bottles might be unprintable. PETG (a glycol modified PET) on the other hand is much easier to print - and &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/7856/8884&quot;&gt;most filaments sold under PET actually are PETG or PETT.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Troubles of recycling&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The melting point of a &lt;em&gt;blend&lt;/em&gt; of polymers is often difficult to gauge before doing experiments and in case of recycled material, there are problems with recreating the exact same blend when using small batches unless you use exactly one material as the base for your manufacturing. This brings us to the big problem: errors in the base material. These come in several types:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Misidentification&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Contaminants&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Degradation&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's address these piece by piece:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Misidentified base material&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Misidentification is when you chuck material into the wrong bin and then process it as if it was the stuff the bin was for. For example, if you'd chuck a chunk of ABS into the PLA bin, your blend will not come out as PLA but as some kind of higher melting composite of the two. The exact details of the result depend on the mixture and how well you mix the processed raw material, but in effect, you just made &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/4982/what-is-pla-how-is-it-different-from-pla&quot;&gt;some kind of PLA+&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This can be overcome by testing and good training as well as knowing the base material well. For example, there is an Austrian company that takes back ski-shoes. Only the hard shells of a particular manufacturer (which used a red ABS) are shredded, pelletized, mixed with some virgin ABS and color for stability and uniformity, then turned into filament, and then printed into flutes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another ski-shoe manufacturer takes back their own shoes and recycles the shells back into the current manufacturing, but is silent on what their shells are made from but that they are a long-chain polymer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When trying to differentiate between PET and PETG, you can not do that unless you do a chemical analysis of every bottle - which leads to a huge problem in reprocessing: PETG melts well before PET and clumps it up, acting as a contaminant (see &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/7855/can-i-3d-print-a-pet-bottle&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; for more details)!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Contaminants&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Contaminants are a problem that comes with a bad base material. in general, there are two types of contaminants: Chemical and Physical.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Physical contaminants can be avoided by removing them before and after shredding. In the case of Skishoes (that's why I chose that example) is, you'd remove the soft shells and the metal latches, disposing of them in separate ways. Then the plastic shells are roughly sized up, cleaned, and dried before further processing. Most physical contaminants can result in partial clogging during filament production, resulting in an uneven filament. Uneven filament or such containing non-melting particles can result in print failure, for example from being stuck in the extruder or clogging of the nozzle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Chemical contamination is arguably worse. PET bottles for example: what if the user before used to store chemicals in them that can't be separated from the polymer easily? In the best case, the contaminating raw material is removed, in the worst, it ends up in the stream. This introduced contaminated plastic ends up melting somewhat evenly into a larger portion of the recycled plastic, altering the properties in hard to predict ways. As a countermeasure in industrial PET recycling, the batches are huge and get well mixed before the new plastic product is made. By diluting the chemical contaminants on a vast batch, the effects of the contaminant are vastly reduced and evened out. This is also why even in the case of the recycled ABS-shoes-into-flutes, they mix in some degree of virgin ABS pellets - to buffer against chemical contamination.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Degradation&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not all polymers are suitable for recycling and some of them alter their properties depending on their surroundings. What actually happens depends on the material in question, but let's look at PLA as one example.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While PLA doesn't exactly &lt;em&gt;break down&lt;/em&gt; in nature unless put into a high-temperature environment, prolonged UV exposure can bleach out the contained coloration and some blends do become more brittle, others do not encounter this. &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qqNfa_zExRU&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Angus/Makers Muse&lt;/a&gt; had several prints exposed to the harsh Australian sun for up to several years and concluded the worst enemy of PLA over time is the UV light.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A different type of &lt;em&gt;degradation&lt;/em&gt; can happen from the environment. The one side of this is cold embrittlement, which means parts become more brittle in cold. This had some experiments done on by &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/w0JVXvSSEWs&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Stefan/CNC Kitchen&lt;/a&gt;. The other side of this is softening, for example by sitting in a hot car. Usually, this type of degradation is not lasting but could result in embedding contaminants into the mix by embedding them in the plastic, so see there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Is it a good idea?&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Well, from an ecological standpoint, it certainly is a good idea to recycle plastic. But with all the troubles to get any good filament, will it be viable under all viewpoints? You certainly can't sell filament which is of very varying quality unless you make it dirt cheap. Also, all this machinery takes a lot of power and initial investment before you can produce your first spool - which means it might not be economical or profitable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;economical viability&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, let's go back to the main question:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[Is there] a machine that can turn a plastic bottle into usable filament? [...] [Is it] currently on the market?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, you can certainly extrude plastic from bottles into filament shape, and the tools are out there - for a price. However, not all bottles might be useable due to the chemical composition and you will need to make larger batches to reduce chemical contamination.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On an industrial scale, the process consists of several steps: sorting, cleaning, shredding, pelletizing, mixing, extruding, and finally spooling the filament.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of these, the steps of shredding, pelletizing, and the combo of extruding &amp;amp; spooling need dedicated machinery. Even if hobby projects exist that manage to do this with well-known polymer blends, e.g. recycling 3D prints, such is usually heavy industrial machinery. In hobby-grade machinery, quality control is often problematic, as filament diameter control is the crux, and the price tag to get even filament without readjusting the machine every few minutes is high.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Shredder might be the cheapest part, only costing several thousand euros professionally and a couple of hundred in hobby grade. A proper pelletizing machine that turns the shreds into pellets for the filament extruder has a price tag of about 10 000 € and I have not yet found a hobbyist kit. A basic inquiry on the absolute minimum investment into a professional filament manufacturing stream without pelletizer came up with about 14 000 GBP (ca. 16 800 € / 19 000 USD) plus shipping, while hobbyist kits for only one of the two seem to come up with price tags between 500 and 3000 €.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This brings the minimum investment using hobby-grade machinery to roundabout 3000 € but without a pelletizer, while an industrial setup comes out starting at about 25 000 GBP (ca. 30 000 € / 34 000 USD).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Cheaper options?&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are machines out there that turn PET bottles directly into filament by cutting them up directly before entering a filament formation system. This setup is called Pulltrusion, and it turns a plastic strip into an almost-cylindrical, folded-over filament.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While no industrial size machine of this is available, &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/N06FWr06iOI&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Stefan/CNC Kitchen&lt;/a&gt; just released a video investigating the device to manufacture such filament and then tested the print properties of such a filament. &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCsv9RMNQvMnIgBzMo57i7NA&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Joshua/JRT3D&lt;/a&gt; operated the machine in question and manufactured the samples. The base machine is the PetBot engineered by &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/user/neskashev&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Roman Naskashev&lt;/a&gt;, which is commercially available for about 400 € assembled plus shipping and import taxes from Russia. Joshua also managed to re-engineer a similar machine using the same method from a 3D printer, so the price point for a self-made machine might be lower.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Each bottle weighs about 20 grams, but neither the mouth nor the bottom can be used, resulting in not 100% useability. The process also means, you can't get any deposit for the bottle back. Assuming an useable portion of about 50%, this would in Germany result in a price of 25 cents per 10 grams, so about 25 € per kilogram - which for PET filament would be quite competitive. Some bottles have larger useable portions than others, and others might not require a deposit, making these a very good price, to maybe even free filament.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do note that the manufacturing path creates a filament that is not solid but contains a void, which is accounted for by increasing the flow multiplier, and it does require a higher temperature than PETG: with settings of 265 °C for the nozzle, 80 °C for the bed and a 130 % flow rate, 30 mm/s extrusion rate, Stefan could use an otherwise PETG profile to gain good results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, the higher base temperature requires an All-Metal hotend, which is part of why PET is hard to print with many machines. Other problems are the PET's crystallizing properties, which makes the melting properties at times hard to predict and can induce clogging. Also, Layer adhesion can be problematic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The biggest problem is the tiny production size of each spool: even if one would manage 15 grams per bottle in filament, this means that one needs to change the spool 66 to 100 times more often, making larger prints nearly impossible unless one comes up with a good solution for splicing the short pieces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Final conclusion&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While the tools are available, the price tag for a full recycling chain of raw material into filament, either as a hobby or industrially, can be kind of high. This means it might not be economical unless you can manufacture large batches &lt;em&gt;and&lt;/em&gt; beat the price point of fresh filament.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, with small batches and the proper tooling, it might be somewhat viable &lt;strong&gt;depending&lt;/strong&gt; on bottle size and deposit system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2022-01-23T09:20:21.150" LastActivityDate="2022-01-23T09:20:21.150" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18773" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18767" CreationDate="2022-01-19T10:33:25.330" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It seems, after checking the G-code file thoroughly, there was indeed an error in the G-code, that I didn’t find when I checked it the first time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Z-Axis suddenly moves from &lt;code&gt;Z13.3&lt;/code&gt; to &lt;code&gt;Z9.175&lt;/code&gt;. I have no idea how something like this can happen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="32749" LastEditorUserId="32749" LastEditDate="2022-01-19T12:27:50.877" LastActivityDate="2022-01-19T12:27:50.877" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18775" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8662" CreationDate="2022-01-19T20:11:08.507" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;See this as well:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.filamentive.com/chemical-resistance-of-3d-printing-filament/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Chemical Resistance of 3D Printing Filament&lt;/a&gt; by Ravi Toor&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Summarised chemical resistance per material below (&lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;H&lt;/strong&gt;= High Resistance, &lt;strong&gt;VH&lt;/strong&gt; = Very High Resistance&lt;/em&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Water&lt;/strong&gt; – PLA (H) PETg (VH), CF-PETg (VH), ASA (VH), ABS (VH), ePLA (H), ONE PET (H)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Acids&lt;/strong&gt; – PETg (VH), ASA (VH), ABS (H)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Bases&lt;/strong&gt;– PETg (VH), CF-PETG (VH), ASA (VH)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Alcohols&lt;/strong&gt; –PETg (H), CF-PETG (VH), ASA (VH), ABS (H)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Hydrocarbons&lt;/strong&gt; – N/A&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Ketones&lt;/strong&gt; –N/A&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Ethers&lt;/strong&gt; –N/A&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Fuels&lt;/strong&gt; –PETg (H), CF-PETG (H)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Salts&lt;/strong&gt; – PLA (H), ASA (VH), ABS (VH), ePLA (H)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;UV&lt;/strong&gt; –PLA (H), ASA (VH), ABS (H), ePLA (H)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Oils&lt;/strong&gt; – PLA (H), PETg (VH), CF-PETg (VH), ASA (H), ePLA (H)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="32766" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2022-01-20T05:03:03.823" LastActivityDate="2022-01-20T05:03:03.823" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18776" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18777" CreationDate="2022-01-19T23:59:00.180" Score="1" ViewCount="1023" Body="&lt;p&gt;Brass has better thermal conductivity compared to steel or hardened steel but it has also far less wearing resistance especially compared to hardened steel that among brass and normal steel has the worse thermal conductivity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically all 3D printer use brass despite is softer and also more expensive metal than steel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Shouldn't the lower thermal conductivity impact only the time needed to bring it to the established temperature? Is there any noticeable difference in print?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20123" LastEditorUserId="20123" LastEditDate="2022-01-20T01:01:08.277" LastActivityDate="2022-01-20T01:46:49.673" Title="Is there any print quality difference switching from brass to steel nozzle?" Tags="|extruder|extrusion|nozzle|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18777" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18776" CreationDate="2022-01-20T01:46:49.673" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The thermal conductivity will certainly affect the time necessary to bring it to temperature, but will also require adjustment to flow rate with respect to speed of travel. The increased time for heat to travel to the nozzle is reflected in the increased time for heat to be &amp;quot;restored&amp;quot; as the filament transfers it from the nozzle to the bed and to the air.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you make no other adjustments than waiting a bit longer to heat, you may see print quality changes. You might not, if, for example, the current temperature is a bit higher than needed. Unchanged, the effective temperature change required is compensated by the wider range of temperature allowed by the filament.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastActivityDate="2022-01-20T01:46:49.673" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18778" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18782" CreationDate="2022-01-20T06:48:30.530" Score="3" ViewCount="1547" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know that you are not supposed to cure resin prints in the window, but mostly it has been working OK for me. I mostly print minis and props for D&amp;amp;D.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Last week I printed some walls and was a bit impatient to see what they would look like, so I painted them 1 hour after they'd finished. I´m coming to regret that decision since as of writing they still have that newly printed sticky wetness feel to them. I had calculated with the paint sealing the partially uncured resin in but this doesn't seem to be the case at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone have any ideas that might work? Will they eventually cure enough in the paint layer that the stickiness will go away? Would another layer of paint help? Or leaving them out in the sunlight for a few days? Or do they go into the trash bin? I also considered if some kind of lacquer would help, though I don't want them to be shiny.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="32767" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2022-01-20T14:03:40.073" LastActivityDate="2022-01-22T13:03:48.730" Title="I painted an uncured UV resin print, now it feels sticky through the paint" Tags="|resin|post-processing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18779" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18736" CreationDate="2022-01-20T16:19:16.010" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You ask about alternative and I will provide two, but for you rinformation both Taulman 618 and 230 can be easily bought in Europe therefore they must be still in production. Also, I'm not sure which kind of problem with PA12 you have, but if it's adhesion and warping, you can get good adhesion with PA12 if you print on garolite (fr4) boards. If they are thick enough they will avoid warping too, check here:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/g0PK4oXbJT8?start=672&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know exactly which performances you expect for your part, but based on the specifications for &lt;a href=&quot;https://cdn-3d.niceshops.com/upload/file/FIBERLOGY_NYLON_PA12_TDS.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Fiberlogy PA12&lt;/a&gt; related to impact strength, tensile strength and softening temperature and HDT, I would say that you have two options.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are looking for a &lt;strong&gt;nylon-like filament&lt;/strong&gt; for its strength and &lt;a href=&quot;https://polymaker.com/Download_File/TDS/PolyMide_CoPA_TDS_V5.1.pdf?_t=1563624444&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;properties&lt;/a&gt; but you want it to print easily, like a PETG, you are looking exactly for &lt;a href=&quot;https://eu.polymaker.com/product/polymide-copa/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Polymaker CoPA&lt;/a&gt;. It does not warp during print, it does not require a heated enclosure (in fact, they specify that the ambient temperature must be below 50 °C!).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See various reviews &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B078ZR3L57&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another option are &lt;strong&gt;Polycarbonate blends&lt;/strong&gt;, where polycarbonate is mixed with other materials to make it easily printable, are a good choice. Polycarbonate is &lt;a href=&quot;https://polymaker.com/Download_File/TDS/PolyMax_PC_TDS_V5.1.pdf?_t=1563624444&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;strong&lt;/a&gt; and routinely used for parts exposed outdoor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously you need a hotend reaching 300 °C for both alternatives.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I haven't tried Polymax PC personally, but the reviews and the experiences in various chats groups I follow are particularly good. It can be printed even on printers without enclosure, or at most placed inside a cardboard box to avoid air drafts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just remember however that polycarbonate is not resistant to some oils and some greases, that's why it's not used for parts in contact with bearings and so on. It becomes brittle, it cracks and breaks. It is likely not your case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can find two useful reviews about &lt;a href=&quot;https://eu.polymaker.com/product/polymax-pc/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Polymaker Polymax PC&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.amazon.com/gp/customer-reviews/R1N7NVSKN690HN/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_viewpnt?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;ASIN=B01KT3TR7E#R1N7NVSKN690HN&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.amazon.com/gp/customer-reviews/RWIJNFY2TGHYL/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_ttl?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;ASIN=B0753DGQ2X&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;. Prusament PC is a similar blend with similar properties and printability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let me paste the second review if you doubt about its strength.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is bar none the most printable for the strength polycarbonate.&#xA;Absolutely no warping printing at 100mm/s at 110C bed temp and 295C&#xA;print temp laying down PVA gluestick on glass.The printing experience&#xA;doesn't even feel like an exotic engineering filament because of how&#xA;easy it is to work with. Layer adhesion is very good. I print&#xA;primarily at 100% infill with parts that are routinely 10&amp;quot; wide by 4&amp;quot;&#xA;tall with no curl up issues. There is some shrinking upon cool down in&#xA;the x,y axis, but it is to be expected with a thermal plastic&#xA;(~0.6-1%). Now on to the strength. This stuff is strong. Printing a&#xA;1.5&amp;quot;x1.5&amp;quot; square tube insert, I misjudged the thermal shrinking (assumed too much) and the insert pressure fitted into the tube. Long&#xA;story short, after trying to back out the part I eventually resorted&#xA;to whacking on the insert with a hammer. For 30 minutes, I religiously&#xA;swung with a might that only Thor would understand on this black&#xA;Mythril-like object stuck at the end of my tube insert. Sweating&#xA;profusely I gave it one mighty cloud-parting swing to the side of this&#xA;object of torment. It broke the damn hammer handle in half. My heart&#xA;crushed, the sun fading, and my neighbors watching from their windows&#xA;I retreated a defeated man to my kitchen drenched in the sweats of my&#xA;failure. Too sickened to muster the courage to inspect my handiwork,&#xA;but too curious to look away, I set the object on my kitchen counter&#xA;and began the awful process of inspecting it. Like a strange autopsy&#xA;by cell phone light, I stared blankly at the effects of my entire&#xA;human worth condensed into hammer swings. Not a single dent. Not one.&#xA;&amp;quot;Impossible!&amp;quot;- I told myself. But the evidence of my lack of human&#xA;value lay before me for all to bear. Sitting there, mocking me, a&#xA;single scratch. Set there presumably by the object itself to torment&#xA;me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Two Youtube reviews follow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/Q_i-57SEGlo?start=0&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/tXLroVcw1MQ?start=0&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2338" LastEditorUserId="2338" LastEditDate="2022-01-21T10:56:34.293" LastActivityDate="2022-01-21T10:56:34.293" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18781" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18785" CreationDate="2022-01-20T17:18:40.103" Score="2" ViewCount="1447" Body="&lt;p&gt;Creality Ender 3 Pro – Z-axis inaccuracy problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Before opening this new thread, I did read this &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/14004/what-can-cause-z-height-loss-in-the-first-few-layers?&quot;&gt;question&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;(Perhaps there is another question on this site I did not see!)&#xA;Browsing through comments on that question, I don't really see any clear, verified solution for errors in the Z dimension when printing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I recently bought a Creality Ender 3 Pro (migrating from a Kingroon KP3, to which I had migrated from a Printrbot Simple Metal).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Today I did a print of a small &amp;quot;testing&amp;quot; object which has a series of rectangular walls (1.5, 2, and 3 mm) running along both X and Y axis which are exactly 10 mm tall (in the STL file). I printed this with both the Ender and my older Kingroon. Kingroon had slight inaccuracy with the 2 mm wall (came out 2.2), but all other dimensions were correct.&#xA;The Ender had perfect widths for all walls. But the accuracy of the wall height was TERRIBLE- instead of 10 mm, it was only 9.4!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I should mention two other observations:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Very often I print with rafts to avoid the &amp;quot;elephant foot&amp;quot; dimension problem. Each time I specify a raft with the Ender, the raft is more or less impossible to snap off!&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;During the print there are occasional &amp;quot;clicks&amp;quot; at the extruder feed gear (more or less throughout the print process). The only time I encountered that type of symptom previously was with the Kingroon on the very first layer if the height was not quite zeroed correctly and so it was trying to print too close to the bed (The whole leveling/height adjustment on the Kingroon was a constant challenge and needed to be redone each day).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In any case, these two symptoms could also point to improper Z movement during the print job. I should note that to create the G-code file for the Ender I used Cura with the default settings for the Creality Ender 3 Pro machine. Also, during setup I did follow the instructions on a video to &amp;quot;square&amp;quot; the frame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That earlier thread I mentioned emphasized problems/inaccuracy was in the first few layers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But in my case the &amp;quot;wall height of 10 mm&amp;quot; (which came out as 9.4) is not the overall height of the object from the bottom, but rather a measurement from the top of the floor of the object to the top of the walls. So this if well above the first few layers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have not yet tried monkeying with the eccentric &amp;quot;tightness&amp;quot; adjusters to the wheels on the two sides (I am a bit cautious about those adjustments because there does not seem to be a way to measure/quantify changes made or even be sure you return to the original state. Hence my use of the term &amp;quot;monkeying&amp;quot;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, unlike checking movement on X and Y, I cannot simply raise and lower the Z gantry manually to check for smoothness and freedom of motion).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="32775" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2022-01-20T20:07:17.833" LastActivityDate="2022-03-18T01:31:19.943" Title="Creality Ender 3 Pro: Problem with Z-axis inaccuracy (squashed layers?)" Tags="|creality-ender-3|z-axis|calibration|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18782" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18778" CreationDate="2022-01-20T18:06:48.290" Score="5" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Scrap the prints&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You didn't cure the print, and your paint might interact with the resin in such a way that it might never cure. The paint also will prevent UV rays from accessing the resin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With this prospect, the only diligent way to go is to treat the item as potentially dangerous and discard it in the proper way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Layering paints that have not cured fully is also an accident waiting to happen, so better &lt;strong&gt;don't&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2022-01-22T13:03:48.730" LastActivityDate="2022-01-22T13:03:48.730" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18783" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-01-21T14:56:50.883" Score="0" ViewCount="591" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've had a CR6-SE for just over a year now and am not new to 3D printing. However, prior to this I had access to a pretty much brand new Ultimaker S5.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When my CR6-SE arrived, it was essentially plug and play. Therefore I don't have enough experience to be able to diagnose likely causes by looking at the output.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've used the same branded PLA for the best part of a year, the black worked fine, the green worked fine (probably about 7 kg between those two), although printing at 0.28 mm layer height only ever worked with the PLA that came with the machine and a brand I have since forgotten the name of. I then switched to grey and would have print failures but only on LARGE prints (50 plus hours), and they were all layer adhesion issues. I moved the printer into a cupboard and bumped up the temperatures, but still got layer adhesion issues and a lot of weird looking layer lines. I tightened the belts and it helped a bit but still present with he gray filament.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I then got some turquoise filament and couldn't get anything to print at all with that. I initially assumed it was just something with the colouring altering the properties so got another reel of green. Same issues. Nothing would print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I dismantled the hot end and found a huge clog, so cleaned that out, but still no successful prints (looked like it was really under extruding on the first layer) then I dismantled the extruder itself. There is some wear on the gear that extrudes the filament, but after rebuilding and tightening it up the quality of the prints is still well off what I was getting 2 weeks ago.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've done the auto bed levelling and put a new nozzle on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've messed with temp settings, from 200-220 °C and flow rate from 100 to 120 %.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Due to the time taken to change a setting and see the results, this is a very length process so I would greatly appreciate someone with more experience being able to point me in the right direction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Attached are some photos of last nights job and the start of this mornings job before I came into work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/r5hVA.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/r5hVA.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Completed print showing layer adhesion issues&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/O0zTd.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/O0zTd.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Completed print showing top layer adhesion issue &quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/j7Lv7.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/j7Lv7.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;First few layers as I left this morning 1&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yNsbG.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yNsbG.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;First few layers as I left this morning 2&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Pnj8X.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Pnj8X.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Completed print showing top layer not being filled in completely &quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="32789" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2022-01-21T17:53:37.060" LastActivityDate="2022-01-21T17:53:37.060" Title="CR6-SE issues after a year and ~15 kg of PLA" Tags="|print-quality|extrusion|creality-cr-6|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18784" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4129" CreationDate="2022-01-21T19:22:54.150" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Like the OP, I'm confused by this as well. I figured I'd need measurements from the center of the nozzle to the left, right, front, and back of the print head, as well as a height from the print surface to the gantry while the head was homed. I've carefully measured, but things aren't going quite as I expected. In trying to understand this, I see examples like the one here:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Head size toward X min: 30&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Head size toward Y min: 70&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Head size toward X max: 60&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Head size toward Y max: 50&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How is 70 a minimum and 50 a maximum? What do these numbers really mean?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, I see the shading in the slicer (presumably one is a shadow, the middle one is a minimum, and the darker one is a maximum?) and changing my values don't affect these shadows in the way I'd expect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="32792" LastActivityDate="2022-01-21T19:22:54.150" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18785" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18781" CreationDate="2022-01-22T01:05:24.883" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well, lacking any other suggestions, I took a deep breath and &amp;quot;monkeyed&amp;quot; with the blind eccentric adjusters for the wheeled assemblies for z-movement. &lt;br&gt;I say this as plural since there is one on the left side (power side) and one on the right side.&lt;br&gt;As I feared, because you cannot freely slide these, it is really difficult to tell if you are tightening or loosening the &amp;quot;movement&amp;quot;.&lt;br&gt;Based on the &lt;em&gt;potential&lt;/em&gt; cause as I identified in the original question,my goal was to slightly loosen them up.&lt;br&gt;On a positive note, I was able to measure the symptom by using a caliper to check the height of the horizontal gantry above the bed when &amp;quot;homed&amp;quot;(0) then up 10, 20, 30 etc in a non-printing environment. Indeed the height measurements verified that the progression of height did &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; correspond with the requested/reported movement as shown on the screen. &lt;br&gt;The variation was much worse on the (slave) right side... Counting on nothing more than dumb luck as I tried adjusting the two sides, I ended up with acceptable performance. &lt;br&gt;So for now I am done screwing around with it. &lt;br&gt;If anyone has a great suggestion as to how to better know whether the wheels are getting tighter or looser when making this adjustment, it could help anyone needing to make the adjustment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="32775" LastActivityDate="2022-01-22T01:05:24.883" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18786" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-01-22T02:20:36.853" Score="1" ViewCount="4991" Body="&lt;p&gt;Printing support structures often are really a mess to remove especially with higher densities. The default support density in Cura is 15% that is extremely hard to remove without damaging something, in various test using very low density around 5% and interface option I have got better results with PLA.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm wondering what is the absolute minimum value that could be used without invalidating the whole support purpose?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20123" LastActivityDate="2022-02-21T04:02:40.233" Title="What is the minimum density that could be used for support?" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|support-structures|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18787" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18786" CreationDate="2022-01-22T03:29:10.980" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In theory zero, if you use support walls (Support Wall Line Count &amp;gt; 0) and top surface (Support Interface). Whether this works will depend on your part's geometry. If the support interface surface covers the whole support area, and has enough layers, it should work fine. However, if it's supporting steep inclines where the interface is only part of the support area in a particular layer, the interface may get printed partly or fully &amp;quot;in thin air&amp;quot; inside the support region. Fixing this requires bringing back some support density.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However you might want to explore why they're so hard to remove and why your part is coming out easily damaged. Unless it's something inherently delicate (like tabletop minis or similar) breaking when removing supports suggests you have a part strength (layer bonding) problem. One thing that will both improve this and make supports easier to remove is turning off Limit Support Retractions, so that supports don't have stringing all over the place and don't cause underextrusion in the next line of the main part printed right after them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2022-01-22T03:29:10.980" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18790" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-01-22T11:43:49.257" Score="1" ViewCount="772" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an ender 5, and I'm not certain that the bed is getting up to temperature. Or maybe I'm not understanding what it should be like when it gets up to temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I use an infrared thermometer, where should I aim it, and what should it be saying in comparison to what the screen on the printer says?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, if the screen says 50 degrees should the thermometer read 50 degrees, or should it read something different because that's an internal temperature or something not a surface temperature?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the moment the bed seems &amp;quot;nicely warm&amp;quot; when the temperature on the display says that I should burn my hand if I touch it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="29097" LastActivityDate="2022-01-25T09:56:02.377" Title="How do I verify the bed temperature on an Ender 5" Tags="|heated-bed|creality-ender-5|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18791" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18790" CreationDate="2022-01-22T13:19:56.133" Score="2" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Sensor mounting&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An Infrared Thermometer prefers a non-reflective surface to accurately read the temperature reliably - glass is reflective for Infrared light under many angles and can in the worst case result in measuring anything &lt;em&gt;but&lt;/em&gt; what you want to measure. To that degree, a piece of paper tape (Painter's tape or Washi-tape works fine) can act as a mounted measuring point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A contact temperature sensor can be mounted touching the plate in a location easily by putting it in contact using some tape.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Sensor positioning&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, do note that the temperature sensor of the printer is not mounted on the top of the build platform but at the heater element under it. This means two things:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a temperature differential between the heater (which would be quite hot but not scorching in an instant of touching it) under the aluminium bed, the top of the aluminium bed, and even more if correlated against the surface of your build platform.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other hand, to verify your sensor setting, you need to measure under the bed at the heating element or at the interface between the heater and the aluminium bed. For example, you could use a spot right next to the heater as your probing point. This is incidentally quite close to where the temperature sensor should be mounted anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Bed temperature control&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on your setup, the temperature difference between heater and the build surface could be up to about 15 °C and I would deem that an acceptable number. In accounting for the wanted build surface temperature, one can adjust the set heater temperature accordingly, as shown in this experience I had:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On particularly a cold day in late 2021 the heating in the room was not gaining enough heating water from the central unit set to a lower setting than it ought to. As a result, the room was down from the usual temperature to a rather cold ca. 12 °C. On that day I had to increase the bed temperature by a couple of degrees to gain proper bed adhesion, but it fixed itself once I figured out to fix the setting on the central unit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2022-01-25T09:56:02.377" LastActivityDate="2022-01-25T09:56:02.377" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18792" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18793" CreationDate="2022-01-22T13:20:06.707" Score="2" ViewCount="3538" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been printing a few props for tabletop gaming: a statue, some walls, wine barrels... and I've noticed that resin gets trapped inside. If it stayed firmly inside I wouldn't care too much, but a few times now a model has cracked a tiny amount and liquid resin has started flowing out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know the obvious solution is just to make the model solid, but I assumed that since all the slicer tools have an option for hollowing with infill there is a solution to this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I haven't tried too many things yet, because I am a little anxious to fiddle too much with the printer setting. I went from having 0.5 mm walls to 0.8 mm but it still happened. I have tried hex-grid infill and pillars. I also increased the exposure time by a second (from 8 to 9), but this was only to see if the object would be stronger and thus prevent the cracking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have considered increasing the Z-lift distance just to have the object longer out of the resin bath to drip off better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="32767" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2022-01-22T16:03:39.420" LastActivityDate="2022-01-22T16:03:39.420" Title="Fluid resin gets trapped inside my prints" Tags="|3d-models|resin|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18793" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18792" CreationDate="2022-01-22T13:48:27.993" Score="2" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Don't hollow most miniatures below the 40 mm-scale&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tabletop miniatures are quite small in scale. Often they have very thin details. As a result, hollowing them out is not advisable in the first place and you will have the best results by printing them solidly. Most wargames use something between the 16 mm to 34 mm scale, but the problem is still present at the 40 mm scale. So bite the bullet and print solid for small items - it also gives the model a little weight to stay where they shall be on the table.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Only if you start to print things like small busts or vehicles that have quite some hollow pace, you could conceivably manage to include the needed geometry, as elaborated below, and then hollow out the models accordingly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Hollow prints properly&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In case you do have a hollowed print, you need to include two vents to allow the exchange of air and prevent &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/13988/why-is-cupping-bad-in-sla-prints&quot;&gt;cupping&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, you need a vent for air to enter the model. This is best placed at the very top of where the included volume will wit on the printer and needs to be accessible to air once the model is raised out of the vat. For safety two bores to let in the air should be present.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The second vent is somewhat optional unless the print takes &lt;em&gt;really&lt;/em&gt; long. If you include it, it needs to be at the very lowest point of the included volume to prevent trapping resin inside and allow it to drain the resin out of the model hanging from the print bed. Should the volume have separate lowest points, you'd need to include multiple drainage vents.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All vents also need to be sizeable enough to allow the viscous resin to drain from them. About 3 mm² (~2 mm diameter) is the absolute minimum for low viscous resin. High viscous resins require larger holes of about 10 mm² (~3.5 mm).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, no point of the model's interior volume should neck down to below those dimensions or you face the risk of having resin clog those neckings - which is again why you don't hollow small miniatures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Further listening (especially for larger prints) is here from &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/Rhyf_JttQEY&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Angus/Maker Muse&lt;/a&gt;, who shows a way to hollow out with a hollow base but skipped the drain vent, and &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/Me8I_wiKMyI&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Mark Rhodes&lt;/a&gt;, who prefers to use 5 mm holes where possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Avoiding holes?&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are ways to avoid holes altogether, &lt;strong&gt;if&lt;/strong&gt; you can orient the item in such a way that at all times one &lt;em&gt;side&lt;/em&gt; of the print is open. Let's take for example a crate or barrel:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We could hollow the item and remove the face we want to be on the table later. This way we shape the item into a cup. We could add air access or resin vent, but we could &lt;em&gt;also&lt;/em&gt; just put the missing wall to be facing in X or Y and then angle the item ever so slightly to give the item good resin drainage and totally avoid the need for an extra hole in a surface we want to retain. This is how you'd print a cup without a hole, as I had explained in &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/13988/why-is-cupping-bad-in-sla-prints&quot;&gt;Why cupping is bad for SLA&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or, you could time your return to the printer to right after the print is finished, you turn the print around so the resin that was trapped inside starts to drain down to the print platform and over that into the vat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2022-01-22T15:45:03.387" LastActivityDate="2022-01-22T15:45:03.387" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18794" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5391" CreationDate="2022-01-22T17:37:23.960" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Often it is the filament. Most PLA filaments start melting at 190 °C and have a good print consistency up to about 220 °C. If filament is ever getting stuck in the extruder, up the set temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="32805" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2022-01-22T18:06:43.643" LastActivityDate="2022-01-22T18:06:43.643" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18795" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-01-22T17:39:18.053" Score="1" ViewCount="39" Body="&lt;p&gt;I’m new to 3D printing and printed a few things that came out fine on my Ender 3. But when I print something like a cat protection baton, Kubota self-protection or anything that will have a “floating surface” it comes out rough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kEdLE.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kEdLE.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="32804" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2022-01-23T09:36:01.050" LastActivityDate="2022-01-23T10:13:04.227" Title="Lower side of print rough on personal protection print" Tags="|creality-ender-3|print-quality|support-structures|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18796" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18795" CreationDate="2022-01-23T07:32:18.107" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;FFF 3D printing doesn't work with &amp;quot;floating surfaces&amp;quot;. It comes out rough because the filaments are being extruded in space and sagging away from their intended position as the filament is hot and liquid (as in a low viscosity).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To fix this, you need tell your slicer to add support structures so that it is not &amp;quot;floating&amp;quot;, and then break away (and possibly sand) the support structures when the print is completed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternately, you can manually add support structures to the part before slicing.  If the &amp;quot;floating surface&amp;quot; is horizontal, one or more thin wall vertical supports would allow the area to be bridged.  There needs to be at least be one vertical support at each end of the bridge.  You may need to add more in the middle if the span is too long and sags.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28397" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2022-01-23T10:13:04.227" LastActivityDate="2022-01-23T10:13:04.227" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18798" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18799" CreationDate="2022-01-23T19:27:30.450" Score="1" ViewCount="1514" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm going to 3D print a series of scaffolds and armatures that I'm going to use as the skeleton\structure for clay sculptures as an alternative to using twisted wire, because I can print dozens of identical ones off faster than I can twist them out of wire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They don't need to look pretty, they just need to be able support a little weight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the thickest sensible layer height that I can uses to get them printed off quickly?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="29097" LastActivityDate="2022-01-23T21:23:58.337" Title="What is the thickest sensible layer height that an Ender 5 will print at?" Tags="|creality-ender-5|layer-height|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18799" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18798" CreationDate="2022-01-23T21:23:58.337" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your maximum layer height is related to the nozzle diameter. Typically, a printer is sold with a 0.4 mm nozzle diameter, unless otherwise specified. One expects to be able to &lt;a href=&quot;https://blog.prusaprinters.org/everything-about-nozzles-with-a-different-diameter_8344/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;print safely to eighty percent of nozzle diameter&lt;/a&gt;, which would be 0.32 mm layer height. Quote from linked Prusa site.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Layer height vs nozzle diameter&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Layer height should not exceed 80 % of the nozzle diameter. If you are&#xA;using the standard 0.4mm nozzle, the maximal layer height is about&#xA;0.32 mm. However, with a 0.6mm nozzle, it’s possible to achieve up to a 0.48 mm layer height.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastActivityDate="2022-01-23T21:23:58.337" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18800" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18790" CreationDate="2022-01-23T21:53:54.887" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The actual numerical reading doesn't really matter - as long as the first layer goes down, and stays down through the entire print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've noticed that the center of the bed is ~2 degrees C under the set temp, and the edges could be 15 degrees low.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So &amp;quot;verify by effect&amp;quot; - if the bed seems too cold and you're getting lifting, then raise the temp and use that new value.   Write it on the side of the filament spool too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're looking for a hardware solution, some of the IR cameras or camera add-ons for cellphones may be suitable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;FLIR is one such device - be aware they're not cheap!  Some photos at &lt;a href=&quot;https://toms3d.org/2019/05/02/testing-5-different-heated-beds/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://toms3d.org/2019/05/02/testing-5-different-heated-beds/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RqfkL.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RqfkL.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12956" LastActivityDate="2022-01-23T21:53:54.887" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18801" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18457" CreationDate="2022-01-24T12:39:52.630" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes in some cases it does.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is widely known in communities which are pickier about properties that white filament requires a percentage of pigments much higher than other colours, therefore white filaments are typically weaker (or significantly weaker) than most other colours.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another exception is black: ABS is not UV resistant, but if you use black ABS, the UV will not penetrate and, unless the surface is continuously scraped away, the UV resistance of black ABS is better than other colours.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I remember some mentions in the Voron discord chats that red (at least from some manufacturers) is better than some other colours from the same manufacturer, but I don't remember the details. You can &lt;a href=&quot;https://discord.com/invite/voron&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;join&lt;/a&gt; the chat yourself and search (before asking!) in the #filament chat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I remember reading that pure (&amp;quot;natural&amp;quot;) filaments are however not always better than filaments with colours added, but I cannot remember the source. It could be that some little amount of extra additives (the colour pigments) offer the polymer something to &amp;quot;grab&amp;quot;, so better than nothing. My guess, but I have no support for it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2338" LastActivityDate="2022-01-24T12:39:52.630" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18802" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18592" CreationDate="2022-01-24T12:45:13.153" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The steppers have two voltages in the specifications: nominal voltage and maximum voltage for the electrical insulation between windings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The nominal voltage is basically never that high. The motors from Prusa are likely rated at 4-5 V operating voltage: the voltage you apply from the control board is higher, but as soon as the current reaches the value you set, the chip starts cutting intermittently the voltage, so 12-0-12-0-12... and the average value never goes above those 4-5 V.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The second value, the insulation, is the one you must NEVER exceed, even when operating intermittently, but it is likely 30 V or more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2338" LastActivityDate="2022-01-24T12:45:13.153" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18804" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18457" CreationDate="2022-01-24T22:21:20.370" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Depending on the pigment size and other additions, the melting temperature and crystalline/amorphous structure of prints vary vastly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Titanium white, the most common white pigment in the industry, needs to be applied in large doses to get a good coloration. This means that the brighter the white, the larger the percentage volume of the item is made up of the &lt;em&gt;pockets&lt;/em&gt; in the polymer structure that contains the pigment, resulting in a more brittle structure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Carbon black on the other hand is one of the most effective black pigments known to man and can be used very sparingly. It also is an almost perfect UV-absorber, making such prints heat up much more than those of other colors. It also can protect the polymer itself from aging if the polymer chains degrade under UV light. ABS for example does undergo degradation in UV light.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some polymers also contain some kind of filler to adjust melting temperatures:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have encountered PLA spools from two different manufacturers in the almost exact same color before printing. However, the one brand printed well already at 190 °C, the other required 200 °C to print decently. The two filaments &lt;em&gt;also&lt;/em&gt; looked vastly different after printing: the hotter printing one showed a much higher gloss after printing, which hints that they had a quite different makeup besides the PLA - either something in the one was making melting easier but reduced gloss or something that increased gloss also rose the melting point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another thing I found was, that the clear PLA I got from china once printed best at 110 % flow of other PLAs in combination with only 185 °C, making me believe that something in the treatment to achieve the translucent filament also results in altering the flow behavior.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastActivityDate="2022-01-24T22:21:20.370" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18805" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6922" CreationDate="2022-01-25T04:49:44.783" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most standard filaments soften at 200 °C, meaning a pot of near-boiling water should soften whatever is stuck, allowing you to either fuse another strand of filament to it or use it to push it out of the tube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="32837" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2022-01-25T05:12:57.780" LastActivityDate="2022-01-25T05:12:57.780" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18806" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16035" CreationDate="2022-01-25T22:32:04.713" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found that I had to reset the mainboard and upload the new code so that the new changes could apply.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Answered by OP, copied from a comment on the question…&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2022-01-25T22:32:04.713" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2022-01-25T22:32:04.713" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18809" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18925" CreationDate="2022-01-26T16:10:12.303" Score="1" ViewCount="208" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've tried different retraction speeds and distances using calibration models, Z-hop, coasting but nothing prevented stringing. Now I tried printing at 230 °C and that seems to do the trick. Even 220 °C gives me strings. The filament is quite new.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has somebody had a similar experience and could you tell me if something else is wrong maybe?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="32859" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2022-01-26T17:29:08.023" LastActivityDate="2022-02-14T10:15:04.223" Title="Ender 3 print temperature" Tags="|creality-ender-3|pla|temperature|stringing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18810" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-01-27T11:50:01.997" Score="1" ViewCount="312" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sometimes Cura will slice a model and have failed lines of code. After discovering this problem I have tried re-slicing and then the code will come out fine. The first picture below is the failure point in the code from the first time I ran Cura's slicing. The second picture is the exact same model that I ran a second time through Cura and it came out fine. Is there any settings/reasons as to why this is happening?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note, that I am also using an Ender 3 v2. For the time being I suppose I will have to look at the full code ahead of time to spot failure points.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ilD5p.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ilD5p.png&quot; alt=&quot;First Slicing of Model, which failed&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5MjlC.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5MjlC.png&quot; alt=&quot;2nd Slicing of Model, which was successful&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="32869" LastActivityDate="2022-01-28T13:44:40.137" Title="Cura Slicing software failing to slice properly" Tags="|creality-ender-3|ultimaker-cura|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18812" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-01-28T02:09:30.580" Score="0" ViewCount="117" Body="&lt;p&gt;Obviously the density and pattern are strictly related but seems values aren't tuned automatically according the combination of various patterns and if I change the infill density Cura chooses automatically only 2 the patterns:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;always &lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;grid&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt; for lower densities &lt;em&gt;&amp;lt;=25 % infill&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;always &lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;lines&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt; for higher densities &lt;em&gt;&amp;gt;25 % infill&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I change the pattern to something different, I get a warning message&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&amp;quot;This setting is normally calculated, but it currently has an absolute&#xA;value set.&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Each pattern has &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/7115/20123&quot;&gt;specific vantages&lt;/a&gt; that are useful according the situation, how should I properly configure the combination infill density and infill pattern to get optimal vantage without just wasting time for more intricated patterns?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;E.g.&#xA;Considering densities &lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;20 %&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt;, &lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;40 %&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt;, &lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;60 %&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt; and &lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;triangle&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt; (best perpendicular resistance), &lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;cubic&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt; (best transverse resistance) and &lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;gyroid&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt; (best all around) pattern, I would get the specific vantage of each of these patterns at all densities or after a certain level, they haven't any sense?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20123" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2022-01-28T06:52:27.497" LastActivityDate="2022-01-28T06:52:27.497" Title="How to tune pattern for a given infill density" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|infill|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18814" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-01-28T11:52:32.673" Score="0" ViewCount="2975" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Every time I issue a &lt;code&gt;G29&lt;/code&gt; command the printer runs through all its multi-point/probing bed leveling routine.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this normal? or can I issue one &lt;code&gt;G29&lt;/code&gt; command with suffice &lt;em&gt;to rule them all!&lt;/em&gt; :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol start=&quot;2&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When I issue &lt;code&gt;G29 S1&lt;/code&gt; to save the topology to the printer makes a buzzing noise with output :&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;READ: echo:busy: processing&#xA;busy: processing&#xA;READ: echo:busy: processing&#xA;busy: processing&#xA;READ: echo:busy: processing&#xA;busy: processing&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Below is my Start G-code for reference to this issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;; reset BL Touch twice&#xA;M280 P0 S160&#xA;M280 P0 S160&#xA;&#xA;; set Acceleration settings&#xA;; M204&#xA;&#xA;; set JERK X/Y to 8s&#xA;; M205 X10&#xA;&#xA;; set E-Steps for 3DPW Grey PLA E-Steps test results&#xA;M92 E106.6&#xA;; save those settings&#xA;M500&#xA;&#xA;; home all axes&#xA;G28&#xA;&#xA;; set temporary nozzle temp to prevent oozing during homing and auto bed leveling&#xA;M104 S120 &#xA;&#xA;; perform auto leveling&#xA;G29 P1&#xA;; extrapolate leveling&#xA;G29 P3&#xA;; set fade height to 10mm ***NOT sure this is needed with an almost flat bed out by 0.2mm ?!&#xA;; G29 F10&#xA;; Saves the bed topology results into slot one.&#xA;; G29 S1 ; ***NOT*** a god idea - makes a bad bussing noise and never completes&#xA;; save for future use&#xA;M500&#xA;; Loads mesh #1 for the current print job IF previously saved !&#xA;; G29 L1 &#xA;&#xA;; set target extruder nozzle temperature and wait (if heating)&#xA;M109 S[extruder0_temperature] T0 ; wait for extruder temp&#xA;&#xA;; use absolute positioning for the XYZ axes&#xA;G90&#xA;&#xA;; move to the Y=20mm position on the bed = FRONT&#xA;G1 Y20 F3600&#xA;; move to the X=200 mm position on the bed  = MIDDLE&#xA;G1 X200 F3600&#xA;&#xA;; purge nozzle&#xA;G1 E25 F300&#xA;&lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;```&lt;/span&gt;&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="32817" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2022-01-28T14:07:35.370" LastActivityDate="2022-01-30T04:59:32.787" Title="G29 UBL G-code - every request levels bed?" Tags="|troubleshooting|g-code|bed-leveling|bltouch|fdm|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2022-01-30T09:20:15.423" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18815" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18810" CreationDate="2022-01-28T13:44:40.137" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The random appearance of the commands makes this appear as a writing error. I have had these happen in three cases:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When I sliced an object and then saved to the SD card but removed the card before saving finished, the resulting file was corrupt and at times wouldn't even print.&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Solution: Wait for Cura to tell that saving finished, then use eject before removing the card.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When I sliced and saved, waited for completion, and yanked the card too quickly after that without using eject.&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Solution: use the eject card button.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When I used an adapter with a bad fit or connection to the SD card.&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Solution: reseat the SD card or use a different adapter.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastActivityDate="2022-01-28T13:44:40.137" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18816" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18818" CreationDate="2022-01-28T16:59:56.010" Score="0" ViewCount="203" Body="&lt;p&gt;I ran the thickness gave these errors. Now what should I do to fix the errors with Blender or Meshmixer?&#xA;Blender thickness analysis:&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Q6sit.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With meahmixer:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Vvzq1.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;enter image description here&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23759" LastEditorUserId="23759" LastEditDate="2022-01-29T13:58:38.183" LastActivityDate="2022-01-29T13:58:38.183" Title="Meshmixer or Blender thickness feature" Tags="|3d-models|stl|blender|meshmixer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18818" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18816" CreationDate="2022-01-29T01:19:57.300" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The blue error flags are usually trivial. You should be able to click on the blue ones while in Analysis, Inspector and have the model correct those locations. Consider to do one at a time, as you can then Control-Z (undo) to back out if the repair is damaging.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other flags usually point to a much more severe problem and are likely to remove portions of the mesh. For those, use the select feature to surround the openings, then F to fill. Unfortunately, such a repair may convert what might be a contour into a flat surface, but the options in the Fill feature may provide some relief.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After performing the fill, run the inspector again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this is not satisfactory and you are using Windows 10, 3DBuilder will often create repairs that fit the original model quite well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastActivityDate="2022-01-29T01:19:57.300" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18819" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-01-29T10:33:00.080" Score="2" ViewCount="604" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have to &lt;strong&gt;set my print flow setting extremely high&lt;/strong&gt; (up to 180 % and more) as otherwise, I get an under extrusion. I have also noticed that from time to time I have to update that setting to an even higher value.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Question:&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;Is my feed motor broken? Or do I wideness the slow death of it? Or is the calibration getting lower after a while (I would not know why/how this is possible, but still)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am using:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cura as slicer (correct 3D printer selected)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ender 3 Pro&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;0.4 mm Nozzle&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;ERYONE PLA Filament 1.75 mm PLA 1.75 mm 3D Printing&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Similar Question: &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/5145/why-is-my-3d-printer-over-extruding-when-i-have-set-the-flow-rate-very-low&quot;&gt;Why is my 3D printer over extruding when I have set the flow rate very low&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit:&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;@Oscar pointed me to have a close look at the extruder and found a very used feeder-weel: &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jpKDw.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jpKDw.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt; Could that be my problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="32887" LastEditorUserId="32887" LastEditDate="2022-01-29T14:04:53.423" LastActivityDate="2022-01-30T12:00:26.520" Title="Ender 3 Pro: Flow rate drops after time" Tags="|creality-ender-3|extrusion|underextrusion|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18820" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-01-29T21:31:41.460" Score="0" ViewCount="1053" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an Anycubic i3 Mega S and I'm using Ultimaker Cura. I'm using it for 1-2 years but 1-2 months ago this issue has started: The printer is starting to print then usually after 2-3 loops, it just stops working. I can't stop &amp;amp; pause the printing (it gives an error) and I have to turn off the printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I reinstalled the firmware multiple times with both Ultimaker and SuperSlicer but it is still happening. I have tried to use different slicer software, models (STL files), SD cards, and none of them worked.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also recently I noticed something weird: this problem happens when the model is bigger than 5-8 cm. Like it happened when I tried to print a 10x10 cm model but I split the model into two parts and it worked fine. Also, it's about the area of the model's bottom. For example, if the model has a skirt bigger than 5-8 cm, it causes this issue but when I remove the skirt then it works fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;BTW, I checked the G-code and didn't notice anything unusual and even with different slicer software, the exact spot where the printer stopped doesn't change.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't think the STL file is causing this because, for example, if I want to print a 5x8x3 cm model, I can't place it horizontally (5x8 area at the bottom) but I can place it vertically (5x3 area at the bottom) and it works fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Settings:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Print speed: 50 mm/s&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Travel speed: 100 mm/s&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Nozzle temperature: 200 °C&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bed temperature: 60 °C&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;PLA filament&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Retraction distance: 6 mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Retraction Speed: 40 mm/s&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm using a Volcano V6 hotend&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm using stock 1.1.5 firmware:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://drive.google.com/file/d/176Zdtz8-ZvCqL7MgupIVYgKVEnWnkPmW/view&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://drive.google.com/file/d/176Zdtz8-ZvCqL7MgupIVYgKVEnWnkPmW/view&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="32894" LastEditorUserId="32894" LastEditDate="2022-01-29T22:18:08.667" LastActivityDate="2022-11-13T23:46:46.780" Title="My Anycubic i3 Mega S stops working" Tags="|firmware|anycubic-i3-mega|repair|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18821" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18822" CreationDate="2022-01-29T21:46:59.037" Score="1" ViewCount="102" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have build a Syringe Pump with a simple stepper motor (NEMA 17), and now I want to actuate it through my 3D printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I successfully replaced the main extruder with it and it worked, although I had to still warm up the hot end as Marlin doesn't want to actuate the extruder at cool temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyways, I am realizing that my Creality CR10 v3's board has a slot for a second extruder, so I would like to plug the syringe pump there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did it but when trying to control it through OctoPrint, I have an error saying that my printer reported a default.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I guess it's not plug-and-play, and it's probably complaining about the absence of second thermistor and so on , right?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What should a complete newbie like me do to be able to control E2 with just a stepper motor connected to it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28455" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2022-01-29T22:53:53.340" LastActivityDate="2022-01-30T11:46:57.383" Title="Plug simple stepper motor NEMA 17 on E2 slot of the main board on Creality CR10" Tags="|extruder|creality-cr-10|extruder-driver|paste-extruder|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18822" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18821" CreationDate="2022-01-29T23:01:43.150" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;To prevent extrusion at cold temperatures, you should enable the feature called &amp;quot;allow cold extrusion&amp;quot; using G-code &lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#M302:_Allow_cold_extrudes&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;code&gt;M302 S0&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using a spare stepper slot requires building new firmware and uploading it to your board. The most obvious choice is using Marlin firmware, as this is the software that runs on your current board. You need to add an extra extruder in the configuration file.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="11242" LastEditDate="2022-01-30T11:46:57.383" LastActivityDate="2022-01-30T11:46:57.383" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18823" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18814" CreationDate="2022-01-30T03:51:16.793" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The TH3D article &amp;quot;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.th3dstudio.com/hc/product-information/ezabl/advanced-setup/storing-bed-leveling-mesh-updating-your-slicer/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Storing Bed Leveling Mesh &amp;amp; Updating Your Slicer&lt;/a&gt;&amp;quot; I think can help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A summary of that write-up:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Send a &lt;code&gt;G28&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Preheat the machine to your normal print temperature. Let the printer sit at temperature for 5 minutes to let everything expand as it heats&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Send a &lt;code&gt;G28&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Send a &lt;code&gt;G29&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Send &lt;code&gt;M500&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After doing these steps the mesh is now stored in the printer EEPROM.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then:&#xA;Update your slicer to use the stored mesh&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Load your slicer and open up the settings where the starting G-code is stored&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Replace the &lt;code&gt;G29&lt;/code&gt; with &lt;code&gt;M420 S1&lt;/code&gt;&#xA;(2.5 If you want to use ABL fading use &lt;code&gt;M420 S1 Z10&lt;/code&gt; – This will fade ABL compensation until it is off over the first 10 mm of the print.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Slice up some files!&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My Cura start G-code.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;M75 ; Start Print Timer and Engage Fil Sensor if USB Printing&#xA;M84 E ; Disable E Motor for probe accuracy on direct drive systems&#xA;M117 Antiblob retract...&#xA;G92 E0 ; Reset Extruder distance to 0&#xA;G1 E-2 ; Retracts filament to prevent blobs during probing&#xA;G92 E0 ; Reset Extruder distance to 0&#xA;M117 Homing All...&#xA;G28 ; home all axes&#xA;M117 Heaters Recovering...&#xA;G4 S10; wait for heaters to recover&#xA;M420 S1 Z2; Retrieve saved mesh, Z fade 2mm&#xA;M900 K0; LA&#xA;&#xA;M117 Purging extruder...&#xA;G92 E0     ; reset extruder&#xA;G1 Z2.0 F3000    ; move z up little to prevent scratching of surface&#xA;G1 X0.1 Y20 Z0.3 F5000.0  ; move to start-line position&#xA;G1 X0.1 Y100.0 Z0.3 F500.0 E15  ; draw 1st line&#xA;G1 X0.4 Y100.0 Z0.3 F5000.0  ; move to side a little&#xA;G1 X0.4 Y20 Z0.3 F500.0 E30  ; draw 2nd line&#xA;G92 E0     ; reset extruder&#xA;G1 Z1.0 F3000    ; move z up little to prevent scratching of surface&#xA;&#xA;M117 Printing.....&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope it's of help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25699" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2022-01-30T04:59:32.787" LastActivityDate="2022-01-30T04:59:32.787" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18824" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18819" CreationDate="2022-01-30T09:38:36.283" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the feeder gear has worn out, the feeder gear doesn't grip the filament, and hence slips. You would then need to compensate for a larger extrusion length, as you encountered, by e.g. bumping up the flow modifier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looking at the feeder gear, I don't know exactly where the filament is being gripped, but, there sure are parts of the teeth missing and some parts are shiny brass colored indicating wear, you need to replace the feeder gear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It has been reported that some of these feeder gears are &lt;a href=&quot;/q/15131&quot;&gt;crimped onto the stepper shaft&lt;/a&gt;, but from the photo you posted a hint of a grub screw can be seen, which would simplify replacement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Quick fix:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Losen the screw on the feeder gear and &lt;strong&gt;adjust the height&lt;/strong&gt; of it. This way the filament is being fed by not-worn-out teeth (set it above the groove you can see in the question picture). A replacement of the gear is recommended anyway!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="32887" LastEditDate="2022-01-30T12:00:26.520" LastActivityDate="2022-01-30T12:00:26.520" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18825" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18827" CreationDate="2022-01-30T13:38:28.893" Score="1" ViewCount="1150" Body="&lt;p&gt;How to fill these holes in mandibular jaw in order to 3d print it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Y3yWt.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Y3yWt.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23759" LastActivityDate="2022-01-30T21:28:03.690" Title="How to fill big holes that Meshmixer couldn't inspect?" Tags="|3d-models|meshmixer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18826" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-01-30T14:51:02.653" Score="2" ViewCount="616" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Creality CR10 v3, which includes a board v2.5.2 with built-in TMC2208 stepper motor drivers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have read that it is still 8-bit (I thought that advertising a &amp;quot;silent board&amp;quot; meant it was 32-bit) and that upgrading to a 32-bit will improve a lot the background noise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't really understand how noise is generated in the first place, but I have the strong feeling that a big percentage of the noise is in fact the result of the fans!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These are the ones bothering me when I work in the same room as the printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So will the upgrade from a creality board to BTT SKR Turbo 1.4 (already in my possession) with TMC2209 or TMC2226 (not yet in my possession) drivers help?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will I be able to remove some of the fans, or will I keep the same noise from these fans?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How to make sure that I am not already in the best noise configuration I can hope for with a CR10 ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Side question: will any of the hacks found online (dampers, for instance) really help ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28455" LastActivityDate="2022-01-30T21:40:58.467" Title="Will my 3D printer significantly get quieter after upgrading from Creality board 2.5.2 to BTT SKR Turbo 1.4" Tags="|creality-cr-10|stepper-driver|skr-v1.4|tmc2208|tmc2209|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18827" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18825" CreationDate="2022-01-30T16:52:22.500" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have not used meshmixer, but both blender and meshlab have features to repair non-manifold meshes, including a way to manually fix large holes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With both of these packages, you can have it select holes, and then either attempt to fill them automatically (which frequently gives terrible results), or manually select a few edges of a specific hole and add a few triangles at a time until it is fully covered (which gives much better results if you choose edges carefully).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28397" LastEditorUserId="28397" LastEditDate="2022-01-30T21:28:03.690" LastActivityDate="2022-01-30T21:28:03.690" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18828" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-01-30T17:47:53.890" Score="1" ViewCount="157" Body="&lt;p&gt;Octoprint is printing in the top right corner of my Prusa Mini. What is causing this and how can I fix it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10422" LastActivityDate="2022-01-30T20:57:19.110" Title="How to center prints with Octoprint and Prusa Mini?" Tags="|octoprint|prusa-mini|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18829" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18828" CreationDate="2022-01-30T18:06:56.197" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had the wrong dimensions set in PrusaSlicer, under &lt;strong&gt;Bed Shape&lt;/strong&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ndA90.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Screenshot of the Bed Shape window in PrusaSlicer showing previous settings&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ndA90.png&quot; alt=&quot;Screenshot of the Bed Shape window in PrusaSlicer showing previous settings&quot; title=&quot;Screenshot of the Bed Shape window in PrusaSlicer showing previous settings&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I needed to change &lt;strong&gt;X&lt;/strong&gt; and &lt;strong&gt;Y&lt;/strong&gt; to 180:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TiLbL.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Screenshot of the Bed Shape window in PrusaSlicer showing corrected settings&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TiLbL.png&quot; alt=&quot;Screenshot of the Bed Shape window in PrusaSlicer showing corrected settings&quot; title=&quot;Screenshot of the Bed Shape window in PrusaSlicer showing corrected settings&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10422" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2022-01-30T20:57:19.110" LastActivityDate="2022-01-30T20:57:19.110" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18830" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-01-30T21:23:31.547" Score="1" ViewCount="54" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an already existing STL file of a car headlight but I want to add a specific raised geometrical texture, not just a PNG image but an actual texture that can be felt when it is 3-D printed. Anybody here know how this can be done?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want the raised texture to be applied in specific places that I choose. It is a grid pattern that can be felt dipping up and down by 1mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looking forward to your replies!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CRsnm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CRsnm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Side view of light with texture&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FtkTQ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FtkTQ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;stl screenshot&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19324" LastEditorUserId="19324" LastEditDate="2022-02-01T01:06:20.977" LastActivityDate="2022-02-01T01:06:20.977" Title="How can I create a geometrical texture on a section of an STL file?" Tags="|3d-models|3d-design|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18831" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18826" CreationDate="2022-01-30T21:40:58.467" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&amp;quot;Silent&amp;quot; board means TMC steppers. It has nothing to do with whether the microcontroller on it is 8- or 32-bit, and a 32-bit microcontroller will not in general get you any sound-reduction benefits. What it would let you do is build Marlin firmware with more advanced options switched on. (Note: this doesn't apply to Klipper, which is happy running advanced stuff on a slow 8-bit board because the main logic runs on a full CPU like a Raspberry Pi.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to reduce fan noise, you'll need to buy quieter replacement fans or look for passive cooling (big heat sinks, heat pipes, etc.) to use in place of one or more of the fans.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2022-01-30T21:40:58.467" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18833" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-01-31T12:41:22.297" Score="0" ViewCount="1725" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been repeatedly finding small fragments of extremely thin cured resin floating in the vat of my elegoo saturn resin printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They're maybe a couple of CM across and so thin that I can't measure them. Thinner than the thinnest Suran wrap by at least half. They're very delicate and flexible so they haven't caused any damage, but I don't know where they are coming from.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've cleaned my vat between each print, and used new resin, but it's happened 3 time now so it looks like it's being generated when I do a print run rather than coming from an old bottle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this a known issue?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LCgBx.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This seems to be forming on or around the skate that supports the model, and probably only during the forming of the bottom layers. Large skates seem to form thicker chunkier &amp;quot;bits&amp;quot; while small skates form thin skins.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it possible that this is some kind of light spill during the bottom layer only?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rest of my models seem to come out perfectly, so whatever is happening does not seem to be happening on every single layer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I ran my printer for about 10-15 layers without a vat in place, and couldn't see anything unusual with the naked eye.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="29097" LastEditorUserId="29097" LastEditDate="2022-02-27T19:37:17.917" LastActivityDate="2023-10-13T22:01:05.157" Title="Ultra thin skin of cured resin found floating in vat, possible sources?" Tags="|troubleshooting|fdm|resin|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18834" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-02-01T09:10:58.547" Score="0" ViewCount="592" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an Ender 3 with an MKS GEN L V2.0 with Marlin firmware and a BLTouch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I first turn it on, it homes all axes correctly but after the first print it thinks the z axis is off anywhere from .02 to .06 mm when really it still homes to 10 mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What would be causing this? As you can see in the picture it thinks it's at 9.94 mm when it's really at 10 mm after homing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/K52gF.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Photo of display panel showing incorrect Z setting&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/K52gF.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Photo of display panel showing incorrect Z setting&quot; title=&quot;Photo of display panel showing incorrect Z setting&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="32923" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2022-02-01T14:22:50.193" LastActivityDate="2024-02-24T18:02:10.267" Title="Ender 3 inconsistent Z homing" Tags="|creality-ender-3|homing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18835" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4762" CreationDate="2022-02-01T09:11:48.610" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is difficult to see with the lighting and the shiny green, but try printing a more complex object, like the usual &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1278865&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;XYZ cube&lt;/a&gt;. Does it look like this one? which means big waves after a change of direction, but then getting smaller?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/m8t6k.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/m8t6k.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If so, it is &amp;quot;ringing&amp;quot; or &amp;quot;ghosting&amp;quot;, which means that the acceleration you set is too high for the mechanics of your printer and the machine vibrates too much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does it look like this one? Which means, exactly aligned vertically, and everywhere, not only after changes of direction?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Bujra.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Bujra.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then it is NOT ringing, it is due&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;too tight belt (almost always!)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;poor quality belt&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;poor bearings or idlers (not common)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also had it and it was the belt, too tight. Loosen it, it can be much looser than you think before you get issues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/8020/how-to-fix-evenly-spaced-vertical-print-pattern&quot;&gt;How to fix evenly spaced vertical print pattern&lt;/a&gt; to get more information about the second issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is another potential cause for wavy walls, however I'm mentioning it for completeness, it is not the case of the question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the waves repeat horizontally, but are not aligned vertically, and the extruder is a direct drive, it could be caused by the issue explained in this video, which shows that the dual gear of direct drives introduce periodic changes in flow, which are visible sometimes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/dL6u0UwPJOQ?start=0&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2338" LastEditorUserId="2338" LastEditDate="2022-02-03T12:14:14.850" LastActivityDate="2022-02-03T12:14:14.850" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18836" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16015" CreationDate="2022-02-01T09:14:50.730" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This looks like an issue which repeats EXACTLY layer after layer. I already explained how to solve it in &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/18835/2338&quot;&gt;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/18835/2338&lt;/a&gt; but I answer it again, limiting to this case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Waves which are exactly aligned vertically, and everywhere, not only after changes of direction, like in&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Bujra.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Bujra.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;are NOT ringing or &amp;quot;ghosting&amp;quot;, they are rather caused by&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;too tight belt (almost always!)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;poor quality belt&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;poor bearings or idlers (not common)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also had the issue and it was the belt, too tight. Loosen it, since it can be much looser than you think!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/8020/how-to-fix-evenly-spaced-vertical-print-pattern&quot;&gt;How to fix evenly spaced vertical print pattern&lt;/a&gt; to get more information.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2338" LastEditorUserId="2338" LastEditDate="2022-02-01T09:59:01.637" LastActivityDate="2022-02-01T09:59:01.637" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18837" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-02-01T09:56:35.697" Score="5" ViewCount="1827" Body="&lt;p&gt;This might be a dumb question, but can a 60 watt heater be used on a 40 watt unit?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Simply put, I was wrong in thinking that more power was simply stuffed into the same dimensions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It extends about 5 millimeters beyond my heating block. Can it be used in general or will it lead to some consequences?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sz0R4.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Photo showing heating element protruding from heater block&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sz0R4.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Photo showing heating element protruding from heater block&quot; title=&quot;Photo showing heating element protruding from heater block&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="32925" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2022-02-01T12:25:35.957" LastActivityDate="2022-02-01T22:09:48.080" Title="60 watt heater into 40 watt heatblock" Tags="|heat-management|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18839" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18837" CreationDate="2022-02-01T12:32:38.807" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd expect the heater sticking out as pictured to cause problems -- the exposed part of the heater will tend to overheat (it's not conducting heat away into the heat block) and isn't protected by the thermistor and software PID acting as a smart thermostat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It &lt;em&gt;might&lt;/em&gt; be possible to install the heater in a more centered position, so less of it protrudes beyond the block, but this is likely to leave the wire end sticking out instead.  I'd have to recommend either getting the correct heater, or upgrading your entire hot end to accommodate the larger heater (which involves also verifying the driver circuitry on your control board can handle 50% higher current, resetting your nozzle offsets so you don't print off the build surface on prints that run close to Ymin, and likely modifying or replacing your part cooling fan and/or its shroud).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28508" LastActivityDate="2022-02-01T12:32:38.807" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18840" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18837" CreationDate="2022-02-01T14:15:25.627" Score="5" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can a 60 W heater be used on a 40 W unit?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, you can, I used various heater cartridges with different powers ranging from 40-80 W.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Where you need to look out for is that heating is not too fast that you get overshoots such that it triggers alarms, see &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/13401/pid-tuning-50-w-cartridge-in-marlin&quot;&gt;PID tuning 50 W cartridge in Marlin&lt;/a&gt;. It is best to PID tune the hotend heater once you replaced it with a new cartridge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It extends about 5 millimeters beyond my heating block. Can it be used in general or will it lead to some consequences?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Try to center it better, do note that the heat is produced by a wound resistor wire, it usually doesn't extend all the way to the end of the heater cartridge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/J01Z0.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/J01Z0.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Image taken from &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.vsec.top/whats-the-difference-between-cartridge-heaters-and-tubular-heaters/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Vsec Temperature Sensor Manufacturer&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2022-02-01T14:15:25.627" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18841" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18837" CreationDate="2022-02-01T22:09:48.080" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;One simple consequence is that you're going to have a hard time finding a sock that fits properly. If you cut one, or have one that has a hole where the heater protrudes, it will physically fit but then not do its job preventing radiative/convective heat loss and transfer to your printed part, or preventing stray material from sticking to the heater. You could make a custom one with molded RTV silicone, of course.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2022-02-01T22:09:48.080" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18843" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18855" CreationDate="2022-02-02T05:38:25.080" Score="-1" ViewCount="103" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would need a simple 3D printer for small 3D objects. I have seen that for example ANYCUBIC has very cheap ones. Are they worth it's money?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="32937" LastActivityDate="2022-02-03T18:22:46.243" Title="Are those cheap ANYCUBIC 3D printers worth it's money?" Tags="|print-quality|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2022-02-03T22:06:18.430" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18844" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18073" CreationDate="2022-02-02T12:49:05.787" Score="0" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Sounds like you need to home the printer, otherwise, it has no way of knowing, where the actual &amp;quot;zero coordinate&amp;quot; is. The printer will &amp;quot;never&amp;quot; go beyond 0 for safety reasons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Do you have the cables plugged into the correct ports on the motherboard?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;What do you mean by &amp;quot;home position is not correct&amp;quot;? Bed dimensions have no influence on homing since homing put the printer to XYZ 000. And zero is always on the endstop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, if you can post your config - &lt;code&gt;Configuration.h&lt;/code&gt; and &lt;code&gt;Configuration_adv.h&lt;/code&gt;, it would be helpful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="32946" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2022-02-02T14:07:30.200" LastActivityDate="2022-02-02T14:07:30.200" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18845" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-02-02T14:40:15.290" Score="1" ViewCount="58" Body="&lt;p&gt;Probably barely on-topic, but I'm wondering if there's any way to control a 2D inkjet/laser printer similar to 3D printer. Specifically:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Shifting the XY axis by a certain amount&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Controlling the paper feeder by small increments&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Dispelling ink at defined amounts&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2D printers have a very high resolution and can be useful for some things, which is why I'm asking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10369" LastActivityDate="2022-02-03T09:42:15.377" Title="Control a 2D printer like a 3D printer" Tags="|2d|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18846" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18847" CreationDate="2022-02-02T16:37:04.620" Score="1" ViewCount="851" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to create something like a treasure box model. I want to print two parts: one is the base and the other one is the lid. However, I want them to snap fit together like LEGO pieces when pressed against each other, creating a perfect seal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, something like this egg where it has two sided, but when pressed against each other they &amp;quot;click-in&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SrZF8.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SrZF8.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Is there a mechanism to attach two printed part?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Note:I am using Solidworks and a Formlab resin printer)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25029" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2022-02-02T17:22:51.267" LastActivityDate="2022-02-02T18:20:44.533" Title="Can you snap fit 3D resin printed parts?" Tags="|3d-models|3d-design|resin|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18847" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18846" CreationDate="2022-02-02T18:20:44.533" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The mechanisms for &amp;quot;click-in&amp;quot; joining are varied. It's important to note that they are not resin-printer specific, although one should make considerations for the material from which the parts are made.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some resin printed models will be brittle and would require that the click-in feature be constructed with minimal distortion, while others could be printed with more flexible resin and tolerate much greater distortion, but may also release more easily.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From a &lt;a href=&quot;https://pinshape.com/items/11532-3d-printed-popcorn-hole-click-joints&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Pinshape&lt;/a&gt; site:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tTknA.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tTknA.png&quot; alt=&quot;click-joint ball&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that in this image, the joint requires a matching spherical portion to accept the male portion. This is presented as a sample, not as a complete answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The upper most portion of the male segment is a cylinder of slightly larger size than the main body. The top of the cylinder has a taper which enables the receiving hole to force the sides inward, beyond the matching notch in the receiving hole.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The underside of this larger cylinder can be bluff, making removal difficult, or can be tapered to match, allowing for easier removal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Consider that the cylinder can be stretched out, flattened in such a way that the cross sections of the male portion and the receiving hole are slots rather than cylinders.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The pages at &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.hubs.com/knowledge-base/how-design-snap-fit-joints-3d-printing/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;hubs.com&lt;/a&gt; provide greater insight to designing snap-fit joints in 3D printing. The following image represents fairly closely the above dissertation regarding deflection:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YvopU.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YvopU.png&quot; alt=&quot;click joint&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Much more detail regarding design can be found on the linked site.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastActivityDate="2022-02-02T18:20:44.533" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18848" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18849" CreationDate="2022-02-03T00:40:18.170" Score="1" ViewCount="4634" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the Ultimaker Cura print settings menu, there is a dropdown menu labeled &amp;quot;profiles&amp;quot;, with Super Quality, Dynamic Quality, Standard Quality, and Low Quality. What do these settings do exactly? If I set it to Super Quality for example, it changes things like the layer height settings, but I am able to then change those settings back to whatever I want and profile remains on Super Quality.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are these quality settings? I know this is probably an obvious question but I am basically a beginner and for some reason can find little info on google.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="32899" LastActivityDate="2022-02-03T01:01:07.837" Title="What is the quality setting in Ultimaker Cura do? (Super, Dynamic, Standard, Low)" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18849" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18848" CreationDate="2022-02-03T01:01:07.837" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to the &lt;a href=&quot;https://support.ultimaker.com/hc/en-us/articles/360012606599-Quality-settings&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Ultimaker Support&lt;/a&gt; website, these are called &amp;quot;Quality settings&amp;quot;. You could think of them as &amp;quot;resolution&amp;quot; settings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are 3 different adjustments made when changing these settings:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Layer height&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Initial layer height&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Line width&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A smaller layer height will produce a smoother surface. Initial layer height can create a stronger adhesion to the build plate. Line width will determine how much plastic material will be extruded.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23193" LastActivityDate="2022-02-03T01:01:07.837" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18850" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18705" CreationDate="2022-02-03T06:27:17.860" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;One way to completely avoid Luban is to use OctoPrint, and the OctoPrint plugin for Fusion 360.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Loading  the G-code from the USB flash drive can lead to weird behavior, where the Z-axis gets a bit lost. Online printing with luban or OctoPrint worked better so far.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whatever you do, don't turn off the option in Fusion to start from the home position and set up a reasonable one. Mine went from the homing axis straight to print, including a gash over the plate that was in the way...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="32242" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2022-02-03T10:20:17.617" LastActivityDate="2022-02-03T10:20:17.617" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18851" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-02-03T07:50:52.647" Score="2" ViewCount="1206" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am trying to print the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3189377/files&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Chep calibration cube&lt;/a&gt; sliced in Cura on my new Sovol SV04 Dual Extrusion printer. When I print the model the extruder prints the wipe line on the left of the bed, moves to the centre of the bed to begin the print and does a huge retraction (enough that it's almost the amount needed to change filaments), enough so that there is no filament in the nozzle and nothing comes out, I had to manually feed the filament back down in order to get it printing again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The beginning of the G-code that Cura produces is as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;;FLAVOR:Marlin&#xA;;TIME:2593&#xA;;Filament used: 1.41417m&#xA;;Layer height: 0.1&#xA;;MINX:133.2&#xA;;MINY:133.2&#xA;;MINZ:0.2&#xA;;MAXX:168.8&#xA;;MAXY:168.8&#xA;;MAXZ:21&#xA;;Generated with Cura_SteamEngine 4.12.1&#xA;M82 ;absolute extrusion mode&#xA;;Single 01 start&#xA;M140 S60.0;&#xA;M104 T0 S210.0;&#xA;M280 P0 S160;&#xA;G4 P100;&#xA;G28;&#xA;T0&#xA;M190 S60.0;&#xA;M109 T0 S210.0;&#xA;G92 E0;&#xA;G1 X10.1 Y20 Z0.28 F5000.0;&#xA;G1 X10.1 Y200.0 Z0.28 F1500.0 E15;&#xA;G1 X10.4 Y200.0 Z0.28 F5000.0;&#xA;G1 X10.4 Y20 Z0.28 F1500.0 E30;&#xA;G92 E0 ;Reset Extruder&#xA;G1 Z2.0 F3000;&#xA;G92 E0&#xA;G92 E0&#xA;G1 Z{retraction_hop_height_after_extruder_switch} F12000&#xA;G1 E-16&#xA;G92 E0&#xA;G92 E0&#xA;G1 F2400 E-3&#xA;;LAYER_COUNT:199&#xA;;LAYER:0&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem seems to be caused by the line &lt;code&gt;G1 E-16&lt;/code&gt; which I think comes from the extruder start G-code, however, I cannot seem to find what causes the retraction to be so large. The Start G-code for my printer is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;;Single 01 start&#xA;M140 S{material_bed_temperature};&#xA;M104 T0 S{material_print_temperature};&#xA;M280 P0 S160;&#xA;G4 P100;&#xA;G28;&#xA;T0&#xA;M190 S{material_bed_temperature};&#xA;M109 T0 S{material_print_temperature};&#xA;G92 E0;&#xA;G1 X10.1 Y20 Z0.28 F5000.0;&#xA;G1 X10.1 Y200.0 Z0.28 F1500.0 E15;&#xA;G1 X10.4 Y200.0 Z0.28 F5000.0;&#xA;G1 X10.4 Y20 Z0.28 F1500.0 E30;&#xA;G92 E0 ;Reset Extruder&#xA;G1 Z2.0 F3000;&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And the Start Gcode for the extruder is :&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;G92 E0&#xA;G1 Z{retraction_hop_height_after_extruder_switch} F12000&#xA;G1 E-{switch_extruder_retraction_amount}&#xA;G92 E0&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All of the settings that I have for the printer in Cura are copied over directly from Sovol's own version of Cura as I wanted to try and use one programme for all of my printers. When I slice the model in the Sovol Cura it does not seem to produce the same problem with the G-code for the model as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;;FLAVOR:Marlin&#xA;;TIME:2394&#xA;;Filament used: 1.43625m&#xA;;Layer height: 0.15&#xA;;MINX:136.5&#xA;;MINY:136.5&#xA;;MINZ:0.2&#xA;;MAXX:165.5&#xA;;MAXY:165.5&#xA;;MAXZ:20.3&#xA;;Generated with Sovol Slicer 1.3.0&#xA;M82 ;absolute extrusion mode&#xA;;Single 01 start&#xA;M140 S60;&#xA;M104 T0 S190;&#xA;M280 P0 S160;&#xA;G4 P100;&#xA;G28;&#xA;T0&#xA;M190 S60;&#xA;M109 T0 S190;&#xA;G92 E0;&#xA;G1 X10.1 Y20 Z0.28 F5000.0;&#xA;G1 X10.1 Y200.0 Z0.28 F1500.0 E15;&#xA;G1 X10.4 Y200.0 Z0.28 F5000.0;&#xA;G1 X10.4 Y20 Z0.28 F1500.0 E30;&#xA;G92 E0 ;Reset Extruder&#xA;G1 Z2.0 F3000;&#xA;G92 E0&#xA;G92 E0&#xA;G1 Z{retraction_hop_height_after_extruder_switch} F12000&#xA;G1 E-3&#xA;G92 E0&#xA;G92 E0&#xA;G1 F2100 E-3&#xA;;LAYER_COUNT:133&#xA;;LAYER:0&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;code&gt;G1&lt;/code&gt; command is set to &lt;code&gt;-3&lt;/code&gt; instead of &lt;code&gt;-16&lt;/code&gt; and I cannot determine why.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any help that you can give will be greatly appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13327" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2022-02-03T16:06:21.370" LastActivityDate="2022-02-03T16:06:21.370" Title="What Setting In Cura Determines The Value Of &quot;G1 E-{switch_extruder_retraction_amount}&quot; At The Beginning Of A Print?" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|g-code|slicing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18852" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18845" CreationDate="2022-02-03T09:42:15.377" Score="1" Body="&lt;h2&gt;No&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Most 2D printers use very different motor setups - 3D Printers use steppers, Paper printers usually use simple motors and encoders.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Printers take input in special data formats. These can be pretty much normal Text files of what characters to print but a print job sent from the printer driver also contains specific orders and might not even be readable to humans. This file of instructions and pattern to print then is &lt;em&gt;processed&lt;/em&gt; into the actual movement of the printhead and paper only in the printer itself.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2D Printer software is super locked down. You can only get the firmware of a paper printer in formats that are absolutely nonreadable. Compare how hard it was for &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qLCE8spVX9Q&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Itkin and Balmas to reverse engineer just the fax protocol of modern printers&lt;/a&gt;. Then, amplify that by a few notches because the fax protocol has a known standard it needs to uphold but the printer itself does not.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastActivityDate="2022-02-03T09:42:15.377" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18854" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18851" CreationDate="2022-02-03T14:33:01.543" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;code&gt;-16&lt;/code&gt; is an option in Cura, please filter on &lt;code&gt;switch&lt;/code&gt;, to make it visible:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/t2F81.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Cura print settings, search for 'switch'&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/t2F81.png&quot; alt=&quot;Cura print settings, search for &amp;quot;switch&amp;quot;&quot; title=&quot;Cura print settings, search for 'switch'&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The search for the &amp;quot;switch&amp;quot; option shows a default value of &lt;code&gt;16&lt;/code&gt; for the &lt;code&gt;Nozzle Switch Retraction Distance&lt;/code&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Your interpreted G-code contains the line &lt;code&gt;G1 Z{retraction_hop_height_after_extruder_switch} F12000&lt;/code&gt; which is not expanded/translated. This is defined in your extruder change start script. Please check if the &lt;code&gt;Z Hop After Extruder Switch&lt;/code&gt; is enabled.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2022-02-03T14:33:01.543" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18855" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18843" CreationDate="2022-02-03T18:06:46.533" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;From what I have heard from a friend using Anycubic printers is that they are good for the money. They claim that the printers are reliable and rarely get any faults in them. Some cheaper printers may not have the most up-to-date spec however if you're going to be doing just basic printing then I'm pretty sure it'll be good enough to get you going. The budget here isn't clear however my current printer for the last 2 years has been the Creality Ender 3 Pro. It is an extremely good printer for the money (around $200) and has everything to get you going as well as being fully upgradeable if you are into that and I personally would argue this is as good as you can get for the money.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="32969" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2022-02-03T18:22:46.243" LastActivityDate="2022-02-03T18:22:46.243" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18856" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15131" CreationDate="2022-02-04T00:33:41.107" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I accomplished this by using a pair of open-end wrenches and some heat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Heat the brass gear end with a butane torch or a MAP gas torch&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Clamp the stepper motor into a vice&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Position two open-end wrenches such that you can use the open-end part of one open-end wrench underneath the brass gear while the second wrench is positioned perpendicular to the first one, underneath it (photos in below article will help visualize)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qK4U5.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Using a couple of wrenches to pop the brass gear off of the motor&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qK4U5.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Using a couple of wrenches to pop the brass gear off of the motor&quot; title=&quot;Using a couple of wrenches to pop the brass gear off of the motor&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Gently&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt; tap on the end of the first wrench, to release the brass gear&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Install the new gear, but you will need to grind a small flat on the shaft of the stepper motor so that the set screw has a landing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The idea is basically making a lever out of one wrench, and using impact force to release the gear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See this article for visuals: &lt;a href=&quot;http://leftbraintinkering.blogspot.com/2022/01/micro-swiss-direct-drive-installation.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Micro Swiss Direct Drive Installation for Creality Ender 3 Pro with a Press-Fit Extruder Gear&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="32970" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2022-02-04T15:01:06.217" LastActivityDate="2022-02-04T15:01:06.217" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18857" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18862" CreationDate="2022-02-04T03:58:26.573" Score="4" ViewCount="9946" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm new to 3D printing, but my printer supports Linear Advance. I heard that it offers improvements in print quality. I used &lt;a href=&quot;https://marlinfw.org/tools/lin_advance/k-factor.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Marlin Linear Advance Pattern Generator&lt;/a&gt; to generate a print with horizontal lines at a variety of k-values.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which K-Value would be best from my below image?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/i8UAF.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/i8UAF.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="32347" LastActivityDate="2022-02-04T20:27:20.597" Title="Which K-Value would you choose here for linear advance?" Tags="|creality-ender-3|marlin|calibration|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18860" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-02-04T13:12:29.673" Score="0" ViewCount="1766" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an Ender 3 pro. In my country electricity outage is an issue, though it comes back pretty instantaneously, when I hit the resume button on the Ender 3 pro after heating the hot end and the bed when the hot end lifts the Y-axis or X-axis shifts a little bit, I do not understand why as when there is no power outage the prints are just flawless.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have also tried tightening everything but feels like the motors are having their own fun tilting an extra step for no reason. I have thrown away many prints because of this problem as I work in robotics and prototyping is a necessary thing for me and so is the accuracy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="32973" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2022-02-04T13:37:31.100" LastActivityDate="2022-10-23T12:32:21.133" Title="3D printing layer shift on power outage resume" Tags="|creality-ender-3|layer-shifting|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18861" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18834" CreationDate="2022-02-04T13:50:15.213" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The height after leveling is determined by the firmware configuration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#define Z_AFTER_HOMING  10      // (mm) Height to move to after homing Z&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After &lt;code&gt;G29&lt;/code&gt; the display of my machine doesn't show 10 mm either, it shows 11.8 mm instead:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/13s4B.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/13s4B.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The difference is exactly the Z-probe offset (trigger point to nozzle distance + paper thickness).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UEWk6.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UEWk6.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2022-02-04T13:50:15.213" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18862" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18857" CreationDate="2022-02-04T14:08:43.630" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;As a general answer to evaluate the effectiveness of the K-factor, when the K-factor Calibration Pattern generator output print is inconclusive (probably not in this case), printing a tower at various K-factor values might give you more insight, e.g. like:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/G8AWx.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/G8AWx.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To vary the K-factor with height, a similar procedure as in &lt;a href=&quot;/a/7346/&quot;&gt;How does one use a heat tower?&lt;/a&gt; can be followed to insert a new K-factor with &lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#M900_Set_Linear_Advance_Scaling_Factors&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;G-code &lt;code&gt;M900&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2022-02-04T14:08:43.630" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18863" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16439" CreationDate="2022-02-04T14:18:12.957" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a community wiki answer from &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/comments/lz4c9l/comment/gr9v9pb/?utm_source=reddit&amp;amp;utm_medium=web2x&amp;amp;context=3&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;an answer&lt;/a&gt; on &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/comments/lz4c9l/monoprice_cadet_autoleveling_question/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Reddit - Monoprice Cadet auto-leveling question&lt;/a&gt;, for those who stumble upon this question:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then I tried their text chat support and the response was basically:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&amp;quot;It is a bad level sensor, which we've never heard of happening to a 3 month old printer and is very rare in general. You are under warranty so here's a preprinted return shipping label, and we'll send you a new printer once we receive your busted one.&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;From the many &amp;quot;me too&amp;quot; answers, this appears to be a genuine issue rather than a &amp;quot;one-off&amp;quot; issue...&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2022-02-04T16:19:03.053" LastActivityDate="2022-02-04T16:19:03.053" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2022-02-04T14:18:12.957" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18864" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-02-04T17:25:40.410" Score="0" ViewCount="132" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been getting into 3D printing last year, when I started to print a coaster yesterday, I ran out of filament. I used the filament option to take out the filament remaining... but when I heated it up, I got, something like,&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bENvj.png&quot; alt=&quot;TO monitor abnormal; OK, from I3 Mega S&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure what will happen next. I shut it off as quick as possible, so what is it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31701" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2022-02-05T09:08:18.850" LastActivityDate="2022-02-05T09:08:18.850" Title="&quot;TO Monitor abnormal&quot; with my Anycubic i3 Mega S, what is a TO and what happens when it's abnormal?" Tags="|troubleshooting|anycubic-i3-mega|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18865" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16279" CreationDate="2022-02-04T17:55:02.637" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Had similar problems.  I even did a 10x10 grid just to find out that my printing bed wasn't actually flat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It actually had dips in it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would have to look up the command, but I actually just lowered the nozzle by 0.050 mm at a time.  Eventually it got too low, and then I backed it off in even smaller increments.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also had to print with a raft so any extreme dips are held together on top of the raft.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16395" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2022-06-08T07:25:34.283" LastActivityDate="2022-06-08T07:25:34.283" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18866" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18857" CreationDate="2022-02-04T20:27:20.597" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Go with the sort of tower 0scar suggested and look for corner bulge/rounding. It's a lot more useful than the single-layer test pattern from the Marlin site, which I've found can be misleading.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With that said, just looking at your test print, I would go with the lowest K factor that gives acceptable-looking results, so around 0.5 or so. Overshooting is more likely to harm your print quality than undershooting, and will limit your print speed too. When I used the original bowden on my Ender 3, my calibrated K factor for PLA was 0.6, so I think this is in the range of what's expected.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2022-02-04T20:27:20.597" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18867" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18868" CreationDate="2022-02-04T21:14:47.957" Score="1" ViewCount="600" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Cura slicer, it is possible to display\visualize where in the print process retractions occur for any given model?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, to have them highlighted in the preview window.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm making my own models\sculpts and want to optimise them to reduce the amount of time that retraction occurs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="29097" LastActivityDate="2022-02-05T12:44:37.223" Title="In Cura, is it possible to display where retraction occur on any given model?" Tags="|slicing|retraction|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18868" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18867" CreationDate="2022-02-05T10:15:37.110" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, it ss possible to visualize the retractions in the preview of the sliced object in Cura.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/t8SQp.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/t8SQp.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the &amp;quot;Preview&amp;quot; window mode with &amp;quot;Layer view&amp;quot; option enabled (after you sliced the object), you are able to select the &amp;quot;Line Type&amp;quot; of the &amp;quot;Color scheme&amp;quot; and enable travel lines. Dark blue lines are unretracted and light blue is retracted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AE8Ah.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AE8Ah.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2022-02-05T12:44:37.223" LastActivityDate="2022-02-05T12:44:37.223" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18869" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-02-05T14:28:52.090" Score="0" ViewCount="376" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was printing something using TPU via my Micro Swiss extruder and hot end on my Creality CR-10. Unfortunately the filament started squeezing out of the extruder because the nozzle was too close to the bed.&#xA;I raised the Z-axis, kept the nozzle heated, and retracted filament. I had to go backwards and forwards a bit and ended tugging quite hard to finally get the filament removed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I loaded filament again (any type) I just got a knocking sound but no movement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I removed the extruder motor and tried driving it again and it was just making a small step forwards and backwards continually while trying to extrude or retract.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I ordered a new extruder motor and fitted it today but found it was doing exactly the same. I am using the EZBoard Lite from TH3D and am worried that I might have damaged the stepper driver. Has anyone got any advice about what I can try next? It was printing fine, with well calibrated E-steps prior to the TPU filament problem, so I can't believe this is in any way related to a firmware/settings problem. I would appreciate any ideas, particularly if anyone knows whether a stepper driver can be replaced on the TH3D EZBoard Lite. Yes, of course I am heating the nozzle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="32992" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2022-02-05T17:55:58.943" LastActivityDate="2022-03-08T07:01:20.117" Title="Extruder Motor knocking backwards and forwards even when removed" Tags="|extruder|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18870" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18869" CreationDate="2022-02-05T16:52:45.797" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You've not noted if the Bowden tube was connected to the hot end during your testing process. Consider to disengage the Bowden tube at the hot end/carriage and command an extrusion. This will tell you which side of the tube should be checked.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the stepper motor feeds filament with the tube disconnected, the problem is in the nozzle. Ensure to heat the nozzle prior to removing it. Exercise appropriate hot item caution. Alternatively, perform a nylon cold pull cleaning process, but that works best with nylon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the stepper motor does not feed filament with the tube disconnected, your focus on the stepper driver may be accurate, especially considering the replacement you've performed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2022-02-06T06:52:37.993" LastActivityDate="2022-02-06T06:52:37.993" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18871" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14361" CreationDate="2022-02-05T16:58:36.377" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;So In my case, the RAMPS were defective, I returned them and got a new replacement from Amazon. The new one worked just fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20327" LastActivityDate="2022-02-05T16:58:36.377" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18873" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-02-06T11:19:55.473" Score="0" ViewCount="784" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an Elegoo Saturn resin 3D printer. I'm getting floating pieces of resin in my vat that 100% aren't just pieces that have broken off of a print (I found a huge piece in the VAT that absolutely couldn't have come from any part of my model). This was from a freshly cleaned VAT and the piece couldn't have been in the bottle as I would have noticed when pouring it out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IjP4W.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IjP4W.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I remove my vat and build plate and run a print dry. And look directly at the screen while it's printing, to see if there is any damage or light bleed. Or if there is some kind of corruption in my file that's causing it to create floating blocks of resin from geometry that shouldn't exist?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm more concerned about damage to my eyes from looking directly at the LCD than damage to the screen. I've got a welding mask that should filter out any UV, but it might make if difficult for me to see if there is a problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="29097" LastActivityDate="2022-02-06T18:03:34.023" Title="Can I safely look at my Resin printer screen while it's printing?" Tags="|lcd-screen|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18875" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18873" CreationDate="2022-02-06T18:03:34.023" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your printer has a cover that blocks UV light from getting into the resin vat, but also prevents it from damaging your eyes. There should be sufficient illumination passing through that filtering for you to determine flaws in your LCD panel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not intimately familiar with that model and my Elegoo Mars has a test pattern that is a non-filled rectangle. To test my panel, I created a 1 mm block model to cover the entire bed size and &amp;quot;test printed&amp;quot; it in the manner you've described.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/K5jGc.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/K5jGc.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;LCD test panel&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you can see in the photo, I placed a sheet of paper over the LCD panel to get a clearer visualization of the now-obvious damaged LCD.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastActivityDate="2022-02-06T18:03:34.023" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18876" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18878" CreationDate="2022-02-07T03:16:59.410" Score="3" ViewCount="2624" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was getting some weird under extrusion and noticed that the gear on the extruder was a bit worn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I decided to replace it with a dual-drive extruder, but that makes the E-step way off. I tried to run 100 mm through without any PTFE tube and only got 67 mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am trying to figure out where I need to change the number.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have the 4.2.7 motherboard, and I also put on the Creality touch screen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It doesn't seem to have any place to enter those settings that I can find.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1302" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2022-06-27T00:18:11.250" LastActivityDate="2023-03-17T18:09:04.787" Title="Adjust E-step on Ender 3" Tags="|creality-ender-3|extruder|stepper|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18877" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-02-07T06:35:09.447" Score="0" ViewCount="413" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have printed a lot of ABS in the past and understand the issues of shrinkage and adhesion. My previous printer had smooth window glass surface, and both clean surface and hairspray would usually do the trick.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My new AnyCubic Chiron has a textured surface and heat bed, which has so far worked great for PLA. For ABS however it de-laminates before the print is even 5mm tall. Tried the print with a clean surface and with a hairspray coated surface; the part quickly de-laminates. Any one with experience using these textured surfaces for ABS?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't really want to go the ABS juice route if possible. Just debating if I should cover/replace this fancy new textured glass with old-school smooth window glass.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2a0fD.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2a0fD.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastActivityDate="2022-03-10T12:01:35.170" Title="ABS bed adhesion on a textured glass bed (AnyCubic Chiron)?" Tags="|adhesion|abs|glass-bed|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18878" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18876" CreationDate="2022-02-07T08:25:19.723" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If there is no interface to set the value through the display, you can always set the E-steps per G-code.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#M92:_Set_axis_steps_per_unit&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;code&gt;M92&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/a&gt; &lt;strong&gt;Set axis_steps_per_unit&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are at least 2 options, the first is to connect a USB cable and connect to a console (&lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10573/what-is-a-printer-console-terminal&quot;&gt;What is a printer console/terminal?&lt;/a&gt;) or second &amp;quot;print&amp;quot; the applicable G-codes by creating a text file (with a &lt;code&gt;.gcode&lt;/code&gt;/&lt;code&gt;.g&lt;/code&gt; file extension) and place the &lt;code&gt;M92 E139&lt;/code&gt; on the first line and &lt;code&gt;M500&lt;/code&gt; on the second line. The latter option requires you to print the file once as it stores the new E-steps value.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;E.g. the current value for the Ender 3 is 93 which gives you 67 mm, to get to 100 mm you would need: &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$\displaystyle \frac{93\times100}{67} \approx 139$&lt;/span&gt; steps, so &lt;code&gt;M92 E139&lt;/code&gt; would set a new value. Store the value with &lt;code&gt;M500&lt;/code&gt;. Note that this board stores the settings on the SD card as it has no EEPROM, so have an SD card present in the slot of the board! If you're unable to store the value you can also put it in the start G-code of the slicer, but that is not a preferred method.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2022-02-08T14:38:18.833" LastActivityDate="2022-02-08T14:38:18.833" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18880" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18860" CreationDate="2022-02-07T17:15:10.333" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not sure on your exact firmware, but it could be that it is using a &lt;a href=&quot;https://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M413.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;M413 power loss recovery&lt;/a&gt; rather than a power loss interrupt pin. Possible you might be able to change this with your current firmware, but worst case you could install a new controller that does support this power loss interrupt pin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on the frequency and duration of your power outages it may be worth getting an uninterruptible power supply (UPS). With the heat bed off &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B000FBK3QK&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this UPS&lt;/a&gt; would run a full print easily. It would even handle a heat bed for shorter outages.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Where you work in robotics, you are probably electrically savvy enough to set your printer up on &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/5uUb-VnTzlU?t=625&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;direct DC battery power&lt;/a&gt;, which would be cheaper than a UPS of equivalent energy storage. If you need help going that route just post over on electrical engineering stack exchange with the power supply info.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastActivityDate="2022-02-07T17:15:10.333" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18882" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18531" CreationDate="2022-02-07T20:09:43.050" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It might be worth a try to manually kick the flow rate setting up 5-10 % and temperature about 5 °C for the first layer after the filament change, then returning to the original settings.  Consider too killing or reducing the cooling fan speed for the first layer only. The benefit of a skirt to get things flowing is not available when starting on the second color.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another approach would be to make the letter-layer a negative image so it would be more of a flat, contiguous piece with letter shaped holes in it.  Printing time and filament usage would both be somewhat higher, however, unless the thickness of the letter-layer was reduced. It would only need to be a few layers thick.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Color order could be changed with this method too if black letters on a white field is the desired scheme.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="33030" LastEditorUserId="33030" LastEditDate="2022-05-06T17:45:09.680" LastActivityDate="2022-05-06T17:45:09.680" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18884" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-02-08T01:04:22.080" Score="0" ViewCount="53" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a &amp;quot;da Vinci 2.0 Duo&amp;quot; that when I start a print or jog is okay. But when it finishes the brim, it starts to slip on the Y-axis, the print then begins to shift farther back and it happens again in the same spot making it like multiple shadows. I have checked the belt tension and connections but nothing has worked&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="33037" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2022-02-08T07:59:28.550" LastActivityDate="2022-02-08T07:59:28.550" Title="XYZ da Vinci 2.0 Duo Y-axis slipping" Tags="|y-axis|xyz-da-vinci-2.0-duo|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18885" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2022-02-08T08:14:36.110" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The XYZ da Vinci A 2.0 Duo 3D printer is a double nozzle enclosed 3 D printer capable of printing a range of materials (incl. ABS due to the enclosure).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;XYZ uses an NFC chip on the spools to read the material properties. This limits/complicates the use of 3&lt;sup&gt;rd&lt;/sup&gt; party filament brands.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2022-02-08T08:14:36.110" LastActivityDate="2022-02-08T08:14:36.110" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18886" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2022-02-08T08:14:36.110" Score="0" Body="for questions about the XYZ da Vinci A 2.0 Duo 3D printer." OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2022-02-08T08:14:36.110" LastActivityDate="2022-02-08T08:14:36.110" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18887" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18877" CreationDate="2022-02-08T11:05:15.117" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The (basically) BEST way to optimise bed adhesion is to follow the instructions from &lt;a href=&quot;https://magigoo.com/blog/3d-printing-perfect-first-layer-magigoo/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://magigoo.com/blog/3d-printing-perfect-first-layer-magigoo/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The summary is: print the wedge they provide at different bed temperatures (keep the filament constant) and see which one adheres the best. You will build a table like&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5CfIC.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5CfIC.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;then you can see what works best.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did it with nylon and it improved things a lot. Since I use bed levelling, I printed the wedges on different spots of the bed because it was faster (print the coldest, remove and heat the bed further, and so on), but another option is to remove the wedge, clean the bed, reapply spray, and proceed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I haven't printed much ABS since I got my current printer, but when I did I can tell you that Dimafix worked very well, holding the print flat when hot (90+ °C) and releasing it by itself below 40 °C. It needs to be reapplied each time, contrary to hairspray (which I usually use, it also works).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2338" LastActivityDate="2022-02-08T11:05:15.117" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18888" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18894" CreationDate="2022-02-08T12:08:53.350" Score="1" ViewCount="185" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was wondering what the exact difference between the switches Q and D for the &lt;code&gt;G29&lt;/code&gt; command is? They seem to do the same:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;[D&amp;lt;bool&amp;gt;]   &#xA;Dry-Run mode. Just probe the grid but don’t update the bed leveling data&#xA;&#xA;[Q&amp;lt;bool&amp;gt;]   &#xA;Query the current leveling state&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user31236" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2022-02-08T13:59:46.200" LastActivityDate="2022-02-14T15:35:35.210" Title="G29 difference between Q and D" Tags="|marlin|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18889" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18890" CreationDate="2022-02-08T17:22:36.207" Score="0" ViewCount="52" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to create a water chamber (Box) that maintains moisture. My main idea right to use a snap-fit model (Two faces). However, I feel that the areas where the two face snap-fit will allow air to go through and evaporate the water. In simple terms, I would like to create a snap-fit box that can maintain water inside like a water bottle. (Moisture cage)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;the snap-fit edges are small (gasket is hard to implement)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;the web part will be covered (ignore it)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I use Formlab 3 SLA resin printer&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I there something I can use to perfectly seal the moisture inside? or coat my box from the inside to prevent air exchange?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nbpZM.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nbpZM.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25029" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2022-02-09T06:27:37.420" LastActivityDate="2022-02-09T06:27:37.420" Title="Can you have a perfect seal to maintain moisture?" Tags="|3d-models|3d-design|resin|water-resistance|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18890" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18889" CreationDate="2022-02-08T23:15:42.310" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't understand how you can keep moisture, since the model you show is full of holes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, assuming you are closing them or something else, then you can use &amp;quot;rotational moulding&amp;quot;: put some liquid sealant inside the box, close the box, then start rotating it in every direction so that the sealant coats all the internal surfaces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/yzxlBrcn2Fg?start=0&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2338" LastActivityDate="2022-02-08T23:15:42.310" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18891" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18893" CreationDate="2022-02-09T06:57:57.597" Score="4" ViewCount="487" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm using my printer for some baby toys. My last print was one of those &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3556006/files&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;pillars for stacking rings&lt;/a&gt;, base 5. The basic format includes a base and a pillar coming up perpendicularly in the middle. A box with a cylinder sticking out of it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Settings:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;0.3 mm layers,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;5 layers of base/bottom/shell,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;20 % gyroid infill,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;PLA,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;80 mm/s,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;210 °C, bed at 60 °C.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Three hours of printing later, I took it out of the printer, it feels &lt;em&gt;really&lt;/em&gt; solid, all the surfaces are rigid, no compression or anything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hand it to my kid, she drops it and the pillar just detaches along the Z layer seam at the base.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there anything I can do, either model or printing-wise to reinforce it, aside from printing it horizontally with a bunch of supports?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MefU6.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MefU6.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;The broken Part&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="32242" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2022-02-09T14:53:35.387" LastActivityDate="2022-02-11T07:01:08.547" Title="Reinforcing inter-layer seams" Tags="|pla|troubleshooting|adhesion|snapmaker-original|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18892" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18891" CreationDate="2022-02-09T09:06:56.880" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you don't object to using adhesive to assemble the model, consider that you can succeed with your objective by performing a plane cut in the vertical direction. This allows you to print the model in the strongest orientation without supports. It will also result in an internal set of faces due to duplication of (as-printed) bottom surfaces in the best orientation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For plane cuts, Meshmixer (free) and Fusion 360 (hobbyist version, free) as well as other programs, will allow you to chop the part directly in half and export the individual pieces. I'm unfamiliar with the software for your printer, but it may also have the ability to cut a model in this manner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastActivityDate="2022-02-09T09:06:56.880" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18893" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18891" CreationDate="2022-02-09T10:11:14.547" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;So you are printing at 80 mm/s speed * 0.3 mm layer height * something about 0.5 mm line width, which is about 12 mm&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt;/s which is likely too much for many printers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Try keeping linear speed at 60 mm/s and, if you have a 0.4 mm nozzle, never go above 0.24 mm layer thickness if you care about strength.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That will likely solve your problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to go further, try to print &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:35088&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this test piece&lt;/a&gt; at 210-220-230 °C (if you notice the walls are not nice anymore, increase cooling). Change ONLY the temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Try then to break them and see which one is the strongest. PLA can be quite strong but not at 210 °C, it's too low. I can tell you that you will likely need 220-225 °C to squeeze every possible strength from PLA.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/mwS_2R2mIvo?start=0&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/M3bwJx8ZkMA?start=0&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2338" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2022-02-11T07:01:08.547" LastActivityDate="2022-02-11T07:01:08.547" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18894" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18888" CreationDate="2022-02-09T13:13:33.383" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;TL;DR&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Yes they are different, but whether &lt;code&gt;Q&lt;/code&gt; is active depends on the a configuration setting, else it gets ignored and a regular &lt;code&gt;G29&lt;/code&gt; will be executed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Option 'D'&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With option &lt;code&gt;D&lt;/code&gt; the &lt;code&gt;G29&lt;/code&gt; code is being run in dry-run mode:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt; *  D  Dry-Run mode. Just evaluate the bed Topology - Don't apply&#xA; *     or alter the bed level data. Useful to check the topology&#xA; *     after a first run of G29.&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you look into the &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/blob/2.0.x/Marlin/src/gcode/bedlevel/abl/G29.cpp&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;source code of &lt;code&gt;G29&lt;/code&gt; for ABL&lt;/a&gt; the &lt;code&gt;D&lt;/code&gt; option will set the boolean &lt;code&gt;abl.dryrun&lt;/code&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;abl.dryrun = parser.boolval('D') || TERN0(PROBE_MANUALLY, no_action);&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This boolean will cause many parts of the code to be excluded, e.g.:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;// Unapply the offset because it is going to be immediately applied&#xA;// and cause compensation movement in Z&#xA;...&#xA;// Auto Bed Leveling is complete! Enable if possible. &#xA;...&#xA;probe.preheat_for_probing(LEVELING_NOZZLE_TEMP, LEVELING_BED_TEMP);&#xA;...&#xA;// vector_3 planeNormal related code&#xA;...&#xA;extrapolate_unprobed_bed_level();&#xA;...&#xA;// Create the matrix but don't correct the position yet&#xA;...&#xA;// Correct the current XYZ position based on the tilted plane.&#xA;...&#xA;// Unapply the offset because it is going to be immediately applied&#xA;// and cause compensation movement in Z&#xA;...&#xA;// Auto Bed Leveling is complete! Enable if possible.&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Option 'Q'&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Option &lt;code&gt;Q&lt;/code&gt; in command &lt;code&gt;G29&lt;/code&gt; code is available when manually probing is active in the &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/blob/2.0.x/Marlin/Configuration.h#L1067&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;configuration.h&lt;/a&gt; file:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;/**&#xA; * The &amp;quot;Manual Probe&amp;quot; provides a means to do &amp;quot;Auto&amp;quot; Bed Leveling without a probe.&#xA; * Use G29 repeatedly, adjusting the Z height at each point with movement commands&#xA; * or (with LCD_BED_LEVELING) the LCD controller.&#xA; */&#xA;//#define PROBE_MANUALLY&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the sources:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt; *&#xA; *  To do manual probing simply repeat G29 until the procedure is complete.&#xA; *  The first G29 accepts parameters. 'G29 Q' for status, 'G29 A' to abort.&#xA; *&#xA; *  Q  Query leveling and G29 state&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using the &lt;code&gt;Q&lt;/code&gt; in the command will set the boolean variable &lt;code&gt;seenQ &lt;/code&gt; which enables extra output as if in debugging mode.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;  // G29 Q is also available if debugging&#xA;  #if ENABLED(DEBUG_LEVELING_FEATURE)&#xA;    if (seenQ || DEBUGGING(LEVELING)) log_machine_info();&#xA;    if (DISABLED(PROBE_MANUALLY) &amp;amp;&amp;amp; seenQ) G29_RETURN(false);&#xA;  #endif&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When going through the code, you stumble again on:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;abl.dryrun = parser.boolval('D') || TERN0(PROBE_MANUALLY, no_action);&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the first option ('D') the first part of the statement already was &lt;code&gt;true&lt;/code&gt;, so the latter part was of no interest as this statement is an &lt;code&gt;OR&lt;/code&gt; statement. Now (for the 'Q' option) the latter part is of interest, the first part rendered &lt;code&gt;false&lt;/code&gt;. The latter part is a &lt;a href=&quot;https://marlinfw.org/docs/development/coding_standards.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Marlin ternary macro&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;TERN0(OPTION, T)    If OPTION is enabled emit T otherwise emit 0 (false).&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, if &lt;code&gt;PROBE_MANUALLY&lt;/code&gt; was enabled/defined in the configuration.h file, the ternary macro returns the &lt;code&gt;no_action&lt;/code&gt; (a &amp;quot;one&amp;quot;/&lt;code&gt;true&lt;/code&gt;, as this a boolean: &lt;code&gt;no_action = seenA || seenQ&lt;/code&gt;), otherwise a &amp;quot;zero&amp;quot;/&lt;code&gt;false&lt;/code&gt;. And if so, the &lt;code&gt;abl.dryrun&lt;/code&gt; is &lt;code&gt;true&lt;/code&gt; and all code as listed in the 'D' option will be omitted as well. But, additional exclusion apply for the &lt;code&gt;no_action&lt;/code&gt;; this will cause the function to be exited early (&lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/blob/2.0.x/Marlin/src/gcode/bedlevel/abl/G29.cpp#L478&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;line 478&lt;/a&gt;):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;if (no_action) G29_RETURN(false);&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;So far a generic answer, the following is specific for the Ender 5 Plus.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In looking into another question from you it appears that the printer used is the Ender 5 Plus. If you are using stock firmware, you can peek into the sources as they are being shared (through their &lt;a href=&quot;https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/16596EvFWv9C9ClbavmHPc4J3MJ4_N3h_&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Google Drive&lt;/a&gt;) by Creality for the Ender 5 Plus.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Digging into the sources, the firmware version is from the 1.1.x branch, they reference to 2016/2017 Marlin development. If you look into the sources, the configuration file doesn't define the needed &lt;code&gt;PROBE_MANUALLY&lt;/code&gt; for the &lt;code&gt;Q&lt;/code&gt; to become active in a &lt;code&gt;G29 Q&lt;/code&gt; sent to the printer, in such a case the &lt;code&gt;Q&lt;/code&gt; is ignored and a regular &lt;code&gt;G29&lt;/code&gt; will be executed. Do note that the implementation of the &lt;code&gt;G29&lt;/code&gt; code is able to handle the &lt;code&gt;Q&lt;/code&gt; option, but because it is not enabled in this configuration it will not work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2022-02-14T15:35:35.210" LastActivityDate="2022-02-14T15:35:35.210" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18895" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8159" CreationDate="2022-02-09T14:34:35.617" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a new CR10 max.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can't find any adjustments for the bed temperature settings other than the basic ones in the Creality slicer. I'm not sure if the latest software has got this facility.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="33063" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2022-02-09T15:10:29.580" LastActivityDate="2022-02-09T15:10:29.580" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18896" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18891" CreationDate="2022-02-09T14:59:35.757" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The problem, in this case, is in part the missing internal support at the change from the elevated cone to the base plate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This could be helped with a geometry change - I personally would add a bevel in that area, which gives us a little wider area over which the pressure will be dissipated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another option would be to use an intersecting circular disk or hollow cylinder &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6522/different-infill-in-the-same-part/6523#6523&quot;&gt;that is set up to modify the infill to 100%.&lt;/a&gt; This would transmit the force down to the base plate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/11157/r-github-stop-helping-ice&quot;&gt;R.&lt;/a&gt; correctly notes, changing from a 3D to a 2D infill also can increase the strength, as now the layer boundaries in the infill have about twice as much crossection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2022-02-09T17:15:46.530" LastActivityDate="2022-02-09T17:15:46.530" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18897" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5618" CreationDate="2022-02-09T15:16:02.713" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;MagLev fans with Vapo bearing are (like the name suggests) magnetic levitation bearings - the rotor &amp;quot;floats&amp;quot; in the air, it's not press-fot like in ball bearings, therefore it has movement in perpendicular to the axis.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;MagLev fans are great at low acceleration and low jerk (or in stationary applications) but their bearings will bang on sudden movement changes. Just take a MagLev (with Vapo bearing - VX, V1, V2..), there actually are Dual Ball Bearing versions of MagLev fans (BX, B1, B2..) which are way better suited in moving applications.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="33064" LastEditorUserId="33064" LastEditDate="2022-02-09T19:19:12.783" LastActivityDate="2022-02-09T19:19:12.783" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18898" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18900" CreationDate="2022-02-09T15:44:02.963" Score="1" ViewCount="159" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am using a Formlabs 3 resin printer and I am would like to create a bottle design with a cap. my objective is for the cap to completely prevent any liquid from going in or out of the bottle (even it was shaken) and also prevent dry air from seeping in and effecting the moisture inside.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Note: I am not planning to cure my print with UV light as I feel it ruins the smoothness and flexibility of the model. tell me if I am wrong)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Is that possible by just printing? or do I need some coatings or extra steps?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25029" LastActivityDate="2022-02-09T17:24:46.053" Title="Can 3D printed bottle caps make a perfect seal?" Tags="|3d-models|3d-design|resin|resolution|water-resistance|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18899" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18891" CreationDate="2022-02-09T16:59:30.953" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The other answers are good, but a big part of your problem is also the gyroid infill, which has very poor layer adhesion strength due to being a 3D infill pattern where there's very low surface area contact between consecutive layers of infill. This isue is amplified by the thick layer height, which makes the gyroid paths differ from layer to layer more than they would with thin layers. If you switch to a fully 2D pattern like triangles where the overlap between consecutive layers is 100%, it should be stronger.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your extruder is strong and you're not pushing the limits of your printer's extrusion rate, this doesn't matter so much. But I found it was a big issue on the original ungeared extruder of my Ender 3 (before replacing that) when trying to print at anything above 30 mm/s or so. For example, printed M8 bolts came out looking fine, but immediatey snapped at the head when tightened - a failure mode very similar to what you're seeing. Switching to a better infill pattern mitigated it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastEditorUserId="11157" LastEditDate="2022-02-10T14:24:20.130" LastActivityDate="2022-02-10T14:24:20.130" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18900" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18898" CreationDate="2022-02-09T17:24:46.053" Score="1" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Yes and no&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can print very tight tolerances and the bottle itself does deform a tad to press into the cap, then yes, you will get a perfect interference fit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to go absolutely sure, a little seal of rubber into which the mouth of the bottle presses can add the last bit needed. alternatively, a viscous grease on the threads can act as a sealant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In case you want to pretty much seal the bottle forever and not remove the cap, you might just as well add a few droplets of liquid resin or glue to the threads of the cap before screwing it on, then make sure that it sets and seals. Loctite is one such sealing glue often used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;CURE IT&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However you are wrong not to cure your model: unless cured, the model is not safe to the touch without gloves as the bonds are not set and liquid resins are dangerous skin irritants. If you want to use the flexibility of not fully cured resin to seal your containers, you might want to seal the bottle with the &lt;em&gt;raw&lt;/em&gt; caps and then cure the combined item right after.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastActivityDate="2022-02-09T17:24:46.053" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18901" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18903" CreationDate="2022-02-09T18:13:11.570" Score="2" ViewCount="645" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am using a FORM LABS 3 printer with clear resin. After printing the model, I wash it with Isopropenyl and dry it. Then I cure it using Formlabs Form Cure for 5 minutes under 60 C°.&#xA;After curing the model, the clear print loses some of its transparency.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this normal? can it be avoided?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25029" LastActivityDate="2022-02-13T11:19:03.850" Title="Is it normal for clear resin to lose transparency after curing?" Tags="|troubleshooting|resin|color|uv-printer|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18903" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18901" CreationDate="2022-02-10T20:46:59.367" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This happens to most resins and the amount of haziness is directly related to the type of resin.  Not all clear resins do this mind you, but it has to do with the curing sprlectrum of light(natural sunlight cures do this way worse.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="29029" LastActivityDate="2022-02-10T20:46:59.367" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18904" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-02-11T00:11:31.067" Score="3" ViewCount="493" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cura 4.x doesn't seem to honor normal bottom/skin settings when slicing in vase (spiralize) mode, and does something weird where it alternates at each layer between filling the skin region with lines (like a normal bottom layer) and doing concentric fill for some number of loops before switching to lines. The &lt;a href=&quot;https://ultimaker.com/learn/get-an-engine-boost-with-ultimaker-cura-and-arachne-beta&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Cura 5.x beta (Arachne)&lt;/a&gt; seems to use just concentric fill. Is the behavior documented anywhere, and is there any way to tune or override it? I'm hitting problems with the concentric part not being sufficiently water-tight (while normal lines fill in alternating directions &lt;em&gt;is&lt;/em&gt; always water-tight for me).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I build CuraEngine myself from source, so answers citing where this logic lives in the source would be acceptable for me (so I could just change it there) if there's no better configurability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2022-02-11T09:22:27.897" LastActivityDate="2022-02-11T09:22:27.897" Title="How does Cura slice the bottom layers in vase (spiralize) mode?" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|vase-mode|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18905" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-02-11T01:25:40.327" Score="0" ViewCount="52" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am wondering if there is an API that can check for some basic (hopefully configurable) design rules such as manifolds, hanging edges, overhang lengths etc. for a given 3D model (say, in STL format).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am looking for such an API to create a score for a number of 3D models for research purposes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6146" LastActivityDate="2022-02-11T01:25:40.327" Title="API for checking manufacturability of 3D models" Tags="|3d-models|print-api|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18906" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-02-11T03:01:56.623" Score="0" ViewCount="2136" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm having a weird issue with bed leveling (Z-Axis) ?? Ender 3 V2&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Every time I try to level it when I go to the bottom left corner and so on and come back to that corner the Z-axis drops about .1 mm each go around. It used to drop more than that, this is the lowest I've got it to drop by and can't stop it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Still nothing, I squared everything off with a T-square and tightened everything precisely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I watched these and did one by one:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/ABpGXcy-cuI?start=931&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/rDm9OziZ6dY?start=0&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did what this site recommended which was part of the first video:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://3dsolved.com/ender-3-x-axis-sagging-how-to-solve/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://3dsolved.com/ender-3-x-axis-sagging-how-to-solve/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mind you I've checked numerous sites and videos and these explained everything properly and were the most up-to-date.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I ordered another Z-axis making it a dual and seeing if that will fix the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="33081" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2022-02-13T06:56:39.140" LastActivityDate="2023-03-12T20:01:00.143" Title="I'm having a weird issue with bed leveling (Z-Axis) ?? Ender 3 V2" Tags="|creality-ender-3|z-axis|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18907" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-02-11T14:51:06.327" Score="1" ViewCount="1321" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm working on a project using 3D printed parts, everything is working very nicely except for one part that needs a 3 mm x 1.2 mm diameter rod. I can print with PLA/PLA+ but such a thin object doesn't seem viable for 3D printing. Is it still possible or am I better off using a 1.2 mm metal dowel?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bigger part (5 mm x 7 mm diameter) near the back isn't an issue, it's the small rod that I can't seem to print correctly&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JGkft.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Part&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JGkft.png&quot; alt=&quot;Part&quot; title=&quot;Part&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="33086" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2022-02-11T18:47:14.110" LastActivityDate="2022-02-12T23:41:43.023" Title="Best way to print a very thin rod?" Tags="|creality-ender-3|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18908" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18907" CreationDate="2022-02-11T16:18:38.837" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It would be impossible to print this standing with the rod straight up, and even if you got it to print the part would be very weak due to the thin cross-section of the rod aligning with the layers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only way to print this part and get a usable result is to print it in the orientation shown in the picture, with the rod part being horizontal. Because the layers will now have a much larger cross-sectional area, this not only makes the print much stronger but also prevents issues with the plastic not cooling off sufficiently between layers. Though this will still be a tricky print, because now you'll need lots of support material.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using a metal rod is probably the better option. Another option is printing the rod lying flat on the bed, and gluing it in place later. This would avoid the issue with support material.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastEditorUserId="26" LastEditDate="2022-02-11T16:55:09.090" LastActivityDate="2022-02-11T16:55:09.090" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18909" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-02-11T18:36:06.003" Score="0" ViewCount="236" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since upgrading to the glass bed my prints are failing right after the point where I finally feel confident that they are adhered well and printing smoothly. They seem to be coming loose from the bed and dragging around following the extruder while it prints into the air (or worse it builds up around the nozzle bc the print is moving along directly under the nozzle). I thought it was an issue with the print settings I was using so I went back to a .gcode I have printed dozens of times on the old bed with great success and it also had the same issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had issues with initial adhesion and tried gluestick and hairspray. There still seems to be a little issue with the PLA not catching hold immediately which can cause a little glob/tail to form. Once the filament sticks it does it doesn't have any gaps or thin spots. If those tails from the beginning of the print snag on the extruder as it passes over that area again it will pull them up but if it doesn't the new layers all lay down smoothly and don't seem to have gaps or get the nozzle dragging through the filament. On new files, I tried increasing the heat to 65 °C but didn't seem to fix this issue. The old files are set at bed temp 60 °C and extruder 200 °C.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was able to print a tiny (1x2 cm and 7.5 mm) item at 0.08 mm layer height and it's beautiful. Everything that is getting messed up is at least 1 cm tall when it fails.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="33085" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2022-02-12T16:07:38.570" LastActivityDate="2022-02-12T16:07:38.570" Title="Ender 3 Pro Glass Bed print fails midway" Tags="|creality-ender-3|adhesion|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18910" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-02-12T04:17:46.943" Score="1" ViewCount="1689" Body="&lt;p&gt;I need to know the maximum input for current, voltage and power for:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;RAMPS 1.4&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;RAMPS 1.5&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;RAMPS 1.6&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to build a DIY 3D printer. RAMPS 1.6 can deliver only 270 W. but if I total my heatbed + hotend + other components, it will be 300 W which exceeds the amount of RAMPS 1.6 output.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have 24 V 24.5 A power supply. Is it okay if I connect it to RAMPS 1.6?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="33092" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2022-02-13T07:03:35.770" LastActivityDate="2022-02-23T06:17:06.277" Title="What is the maximum input ratings for current, voltage and power for RAMPS 1.4, 1.5 and 1.6?" Tags="|diy-3d-printer|ramps-1.4|arduino-mega-2650|ramps|ramps-1.6|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18911" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18910" CreationDate="2022-02-12T17:00:42.197" Score="2" Body="&lt;h1&gt;RAMPS power consumption&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The power consumption for all three versions of the board should be, essentially, the same.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;RAMPS 1.4&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The info is on the RepRapWiki - &lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/wiki/RAMPS_1.4&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;RAMPS 1.4&lt;/a&gt; - &lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/wiki/RAMPS_1.4#Power_Supply&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Power supply&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The board has two pairs of connectors for power, one labeled 11A and the other 5A, both of these pairs are 12V connections.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your power supply should be able to deliver 16 amps, is ok if it delivers more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other variants are the S-480 and S-600 for 480W and 600W respectively.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$I = 16 A$&lt;/span&gt;, &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$V = 12 V$&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can then calculate the power from &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$$P = IV$$&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$$P = 16 x 12$$&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$$P = 192 W$$&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively, considering each circuit in isolation:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$I_1=11 A$&lt;/span&gt; for the heated bed only;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$I_2=5 A$&lt;/span&gt; for the stepper motors, hotend, etc.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$$P_1 = I_1V$$&lt;/span&gt;&#xA;&lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$$P_1 = 11 x 12$$&lt;/span&gt;&#xA;&lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$$P_1 = 132 W$$&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$$P_2 = I_2V$$&lt;/span&gt;&#xA;&lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$$P_2 = 5 x 12$$&lt;/span&gt;&#xA;&lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$$P_2 = 60 W$$&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;so the overall power consumption,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$$P_T = P_1 + P2$$&lt;/span&gt;&#xA;&lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$$P_T = 132+60$$&lt;/span&gt;&#xA;&lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$$P_T = 192W$$&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Important note: While the overall power may indeed be 192 W, it is important that you only draw the maximum individually rated current/power (5 A and 11 A) from each of the respective circuits - you can not draw 16 A (192 W) from just one of the circuits alone. To attempt to do so would be dangerous and may result in a fire or worse.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;RAMPS 1.5&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From RepRapWiki - &lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/wiki/RAMPS_1.5&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;RAMPS 1.5&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The layout of the RAMPS 1.5 is virtually identical to that of the RAMPS 1.4. The only real difference between the two are the MOSFETs and the fuses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Only the form and type of the fuses are different, not their ratings. Therefore, the voltage and current specifications would appear to be the same as RAMPS 1.4&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;RAMPS 1.6&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From RepRapWiki - &lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/wiki/RAMPS_1.6&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;RAMPS 1.6&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It maintains the surface-mounted fuses and flush MOSFETS of the RAMPS 1.5.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Therefore, the voltage and current specifications would appear to be the same as RAMPS 1.4&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that there are other variants of the RAMPS board that you may need to consider, such as the 24 V version and so forth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Supplying additional current and/or power&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Using an External MOSFET&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To draw more current than the RAMPS can supply for the various heating elements, you could use an externally switched circuit (whose MOSFETS are triggered by the RAMPS outputs), &lt;em&gt;in place of the RAMPS outputs&lt;/em&gt;, to supply this additional current.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See &lt;a href=&quot;https://electronics.stackexchange.com/q/389502/64015&quot;&gt;Modify RAMPS 1.4 adding external MOSFET for heat bed: can I remove original mosfet?&lt;/a&gt; which links to the excellent &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprint.wiki/reprap/electronics/heatbed_mosfet&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Howto Connect your Hotbed (and or extruder) to a Mosfet&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprint.wiki/reprap/electronics/heatbed_mosfet#how_to_install&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;External MOSFET schematic&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TdOis.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;External MOSFET schematic&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TdOis.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;External MOSFET schematic&quot; title=&quot;External MOSFET schematic&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprint.wiki/reprap/electronics/heatbed_mosfet#apply_a_second_psu_12_or_24_volts&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Apply a second PSU ( 12 or 24 volts)&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jE35M.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Apply a second PSU ( 12 or 24 volts)&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jE35M.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Apply a second PSU ( 12 or 24 volts)&quot; title=&quot;Apply a second PSU ( 12 or 24 volts)&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprint.wiki/reprap/electronics/heatbed_mosfet#apply_a_second_mosfet_for_the_extruder&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Apply a second MOSFET (for the extruder)&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ju55y.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Apply a second MOSFET (for the extruder)&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ju55y.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Apply a second MOSFET (for the extruder)&quot; title=&quot;Apply a second MOSFET (for the extruder)&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See also &lt;strong&gt;MOSFET Band Aid&lt;/strong&gt; in &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/13302/4762&quot;&gt;0scar's answer&lt;/a&gt; to &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/q/13300/4762&quot;&gt;Which 3D printer controller should I use?&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EVwaZ.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;MOSFET External module&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EVwaZ.png&quot; alt=&quot;MOSFET External module&quot; title=&quot;MOSFET External module&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Power consumption rethink&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively, and probably better, rethink your power consumption, so that it matches that which can be supplied by the RAMPS board. Your current draw, and hence power requirement, shouldn't need to be so high.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;24 V capable RAMPS&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another alternative is to get a RAMPS which can handle 24 V, which, whilst not supplying more current, will provide you with &lt;em&gt;more power&lt;/em&gt; (approximately twice as much). However, this may require that you get a different set of heating elements (if your current set isn't dual voltage capable) - which obviously isn't ideal and will entail even more expense. See &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/q/1562/4762&quot;&gt;Do I have to buy all new components if I were to get a RAMPS 1.4 that supports 24 V power?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4762" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2022-02-23T06:17:06.277" LastActivityDate="2022-02-23T06:17:06.277" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18912" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18907" CreationDate="2022-02-12T23:41:43.023" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you insist on printing it entirely, I would suggest cutting the model in two halves through the centerline, printing them flat and gluing both parts together after printing. This will make sure the axial direction of the rod is in the XY plane, and doesn't require support.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, the beauty of 3D printing is that it can be easily combined with other materials and techniques. In this case, you are far better off by printing the big cylinder with a hole in it and glueing a metal rod in. It is less trouble, stronger and possibly more functional since it will have a much better surface finish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10659" LastActivityDate="2022-02-12T23:41:43.023" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18913" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18914" CreationDate="2022-02-13T00:03:15.497" Score="0" ViewCount="77" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I have little to no idea regarding 3D printing and was building web-based software for a client, I have 3 values in my access,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Material: PLA&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Material Cost: 1300 kr per kilogram&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Infill Percentage/Density: 50 %&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Material length: 13000 mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Printing Cost Per Hour: 70 kr&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given this information, what would be the formula to calculate the rough estimation of the time required to 3D print this? I know that it's different for all the 3D printers but still, I would like to have a way to calculate a rough estimation of the 3D printing time, that possibly but not necessarily, touches the reality of most 3D printers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="33102" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2022-02-13T00:18:46.020" LastActivityDate="2022-02-13T00:18:46.020" Title="How to calculate a rough 3D printing time?" Tags="|cost|estimation|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18914" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18913" CreationDate="2022-02-13T00:17:36.633" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You'd certainly need to know more information than that provided. 3D printers have speeds ranging from 20 mm per second to as high as ten times that (extreme 3D printer sports!) and the speed during printing varies with the geometry of the object being printed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More considerations involve printer nozzle size, object layer thickness (if uniform throughout), printer model, slicer software used, slicer software profile used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a rough estimate with the information, you could expect a variance fifty percent or more, if someone was willing to take the risk of making an estimation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastActivityDate="2022-02-13T00:17:36.633" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18915" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18906" CreationDate="2022-02-13T02:53:22.193" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The extra Z-axis did help but it was all the eccentric nuts. Make sure you can move them with little force, not you trying to open a bottle of soda but a little lighter than that&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I solved the issue by just adding another Z-axis, I also printed a spacer for the bottom of the Z motors at 1.4 mm and leveled both sides with corner levels (post pipe levels) from Lowes. Add a washer to the nuts towards the backside inside of the new Z-axis lead screw bracket and done. No more sag.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B08RJDW5W6&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Creality Ender 3 Accessories Dual Z-Axis Kit&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="33081" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2022-02-15T18:21:51.080" LastActivityDate="2022-02-15T18:21:51.080" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18916" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17840" CreationDate="2022-02-13T05:58:16.013" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Check your retraction and run some experiments with it. I just had a very similar problem, when I switched from 0.6 mm retraction to 0.8 mm filament tended to get stuck between rolers and the cooler on layer change.&#xA;I don't have and never had linear advance enabled, so it's not the issue.&#xA;Unless I've misunderstood and your extruder didn't move at all (mine did move properly)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="33103" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2022-02-13T06:55:44.343" LastActivityDate="2022-02-13T06:55:44.343" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18917" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18901" CreationDate="2022-02-13T11:19:03.850" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Clouding is a known issue with colored transparent resins, as is yellowing with clear resin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Uncle Jessy did quite a good video explaining the issue and how to best avoid it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The conclusion was that you should wash and dry them with as little UV exposure as possible (Drying them inside a box in a warm room rather than in direct sunlight), then coating them with Clear Coat lacquer or a similar product, then curing them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1Ya0DSVYXsE&amp;amp;t=5s&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;enter link description here&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="29097" LastActivityDate="2022-02-13T11:19:03.850" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18918" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-02-13T12:28:30.613" Score="1" ViewCount="271" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an Anycubic Chiron printer and use Ultimaker Cura for slicing.  Recently I printed a simple clip, had no problems whatsoever.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have since upgraded Cura to the latest version, and now the PLA will not stick to the build plate.  The printer will make 3 passes whilst printing the brim, then it all collects into a ball.  I have checked the level, all is OK,  I have increased the temperatures, with the EO now at 225 °C (was 200 °C) and the bed at 75 °C (was 60 °C)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know how much or what was changed by Ultimaker in the latest upgrade?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="33106" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2022-02-13T14:03:11.543" LastActivityDate="2022-02-20T09:30:00.077" Title="PLA not sticking to the build plate" Tags="|pla|ultimaker|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18921" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18923" CreationDate="2022-02-13T17:58:47.500" Score="0" ViewCount="855" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I have the following pieces of information based on which I want to calculate the estimated time It would take to 3D print something.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;3D Object's width, height, and depth (millimeters)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Its weight&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Printing Speed (millimeters per second)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Layer Height&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Printer Nozzle Diameter&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Printer Nozzle Height&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given this info, how to calculate the 3D printing time?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="33102" LastActivityDate="2022-02-13T23:58:57.230" Title="Formula of calculating 3D printing time" Tags="|estimation|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2022-02-15T00:07:34.157" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18922" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15130" CreationDate="2022-02-13T21:28:34.300" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;One option is to use &lt;code&gt;minkowski()&lt;/code&gt; to combine the svg with a cone. On the positive side, it gives a rather nice result, but the downsides are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;it's pretty slow&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;it fattens the bottom rather than shrinking the top, so depending on your needs you may have to invert the image, run &lt;code&gt;minkowski&lt;/code&gt;, then invert again.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another option is to convert to grayscale &lt;strong&gt;png and apply a blur&lt;/strong&gt; with an external tool, then to import using &lt;code&gt;surface()&lt;/code&gt; (the gray blur will become a nice slope). That will both fatten the bottom and shrink the top, but keeping only the top half should give the desired result.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="33113" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2022-02-13T22:22:23.627" LastActivityDate="2022-02-13T22:22:23.627" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18923" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18921" CreationDate="2022-02-13T23:58:57.230" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In general, there is no easy way to compute 3D printing time from those quantities. Unless you have a printer with &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CAwaGuEbM2o&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;extreme&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J8p46wDM5KM&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;kinematic&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tHI9v4wh4aA&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;capabilities&lt;/a&gt; (and to some extent even then), print speed is highly limited by acceleration and deceleration for toolpaths that are deeply a function of the specific geometry of the model to be printed. This makes it really hard to get a good estimate for time without actually slicing the model and simulating the printer's execution of the resulting gcode.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the object is sufficiently simple, or if your print speed is so slow as to make acceleration to the max speed nearly instantaneous (but travel speed isn't so slow as to be a dominating factor), you may be able to use any one of the quantities you know to estimate print time half-decently.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Weight/mass: if you actually know the mass when 3D printed (with the wall/infill settings you'll be using) then mass divided by material density gives you material volume, and you can divide by the extrusion rate in mm³/s (computed from layer height, line width, and print speed) to convert volume to seconds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Object dimensions: if it's roughly a cube or other geometric object you know surface area and volume formulae for, you can compute surface area, multiply by shell thickness, then add the infill percentage times the volume to get an estimate for printed material volume, and use the same above volume to time conversion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the conditions under which you might be able to get a reasonable estimate don't apply, your best bet is to actually slice the model and see what the slicer software estimates, or feed its output to a gcode analyzer/simulation software.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2022-02-13T23:58:57.230" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18924" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-02-14T07:49:38.547" Score="2" ViewCount="805" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm having a hard time getting my Ender 5 Plus (I'm using stock firmware 1.70.2 BL) trammed and in the pursue of that I decided to check my probe offset values. As it seems there is only a Z offset configured? Or does &lt;code&gt;M851&lt;/code&gt; only show the Z value?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Send: M851&#xA;Recv: echo:Z Offset  zprobe_zoffset= -2.08&#xA;Recv: ok&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user31236" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2022-02-14T14:22:23.107" LastActivityDate="2022-02-14T14:22:23.107" Title="Only Z offset for BLTouch?" Tags="|marlin|g-code|bltouch|creality-ender-5|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18925" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18809" CreationDate="2022-02-14T10:15:04.223" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It just needed drying, even though it was brand new. Thnx @R.. GitHub STOP HELPING ICE.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="32859" LastActivityDate="2022-02-14T10:15:04.223" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18926" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18924" CreationDate="2022-02-14T13:18:33.133" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;For Marlin 1.1.x, the Z-offset is shown with &lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#M851:_Set_Z-Probe_Offset&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;code&gt;M851&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For Marlin 2.0.x it is also possible to change the X and Y offset values through the &lt;a href=&quot;https://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M851.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;code&gt;M851&lt;/code&gt; G-code&lt;/a&gt; using &lt;code&gt;X&lt;/code&gt; and &lt;code&gt;Y&lt;/code&gt; (outside the default &lt;code&gt;Z&lt;/code&gt;) parameter options. Without parameters, &lt;code&gt;M851&lt;/code&gt; returns the following in a &lt;a href=&quot;/q/10573&quot;&gt;terminal&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Send: M851&#xA;Recv:   M851 X0.00 Y55.00 Z0.00 ; (mm)&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Considering &lt;a href=&quot;https://all3dp.com/2/creality-ender-5-plus-firmware/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this from All3DP&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First up is the official Creality firmware, which is based on older versions of Marlin. Creality doesn’t mention which exact version of Marlin it’s based on, but it’s likely a variation of Marlin 1.9 that’s slightly changed to match Creality’s needs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is meant here is that Creality is secret about their use of which version of firmware they use, but it is most likely based on the 1.1.9 code base. If so, this implies that in your case, while running stock firmware, you should only see the Z-offset, not the X and Y offsets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Digging even further, it appears that Creality has released the Ender 5 Plus firmware through their &lt;a href=&quot;https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/16596EvFWv9C9ClbavmHPc4J3MJ4_N3h_&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Google Drive&lt;/a&gt;. When you look into the code, the firmware version is indeed from the 1.1.x branch, they reference to 2016/2017 Marlin development. If you look into the sources you will see that &lt;code&gt;M851&lt;/code&gt; indeed only returns the Z-offset.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2022-02-14T13:36:12.460" LastActivityDate="2022-02-14T13:36:12.460" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18927" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19033" CreationDate="2022-02-14T20:36:58.183" Score="2" ViewCount="993" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently purchased a &lt;strong&gt;Creality Ender 3 Max&lt;/strong&gt; as my first 3D printer and overall I am quite impressed with the print quality after only leveling the bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, every print I have done so far has had &lt;strong&gt;bumps on the outer walls, limited to a section of the lower layers&lt;/strong&gt;, usually around 6 layers in height.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0tRrd.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;White 3D Benchy Boat with bumps using default Cura settings&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0tRrd.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;White 3D Benchy Boat with bumps using default Cura settings&quot; title=&quot;White 3D Benchy Boat with bumps using default Cura settings&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Standard print settings:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1.75 mm PLA filament&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;0.2 mm layer height&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;20 % infill&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have tried:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Prusa Slic3r (default settings) vs Cura for my slicing. Prusa Slic3r exaggerated the effect compared to Cura.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Increasing the extruder and heated bed temperatures (200 °C &amp;amp; 50 °C, 210 °C &amp;amp; 60 °C, 225 °C &amp;amp; 70 °C). Higher temperatures seem to reduce the effect.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Reducing the print speed from 50.0 mm/s to 35.0 mm/s. Slower print speed seems to reduce the effect.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FQXPX.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Black 3D Benchy Boat with bumps using slower print speed&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FQXPX.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Black 3D Benchy Boat with bumps using slower print speed&quot; title=&quot;Black 3D Benchy Boat with bumps using slower print speed&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My next experiment will be to combine a higher extrusion temperature with reduced print speeds however I suspect that this is just making the print more forgiving and masking a different cause.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Does anybody know of a way I can eliminate these artifacts?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Further experiments I can run to debug this or even the correct terminology or search terms for this (I'm having difficulty finding anything that looks like this problem online) would also be greatly appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Updates:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Test print with 0.1 mm Z Offset shows a slight improvement but does not resolve the issue.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Test print with 0.2 mm Z Offset shows no improvement over 0.1 mm Z Offset and nearly compromises bed adhesion.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I printed a 20 mm cube benchmark. X and Y measurements are spot on but the Z axis measures 19.2 mm.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uh6ho.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uh6ho.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;XYZ Calibration Cube with bumps and short Z axis&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="33124" LastEditorUserId="33124" LastEditDate="2022-02-28T22:26:42.647" LastActivityDate="2022-02-28T22:26:42.647" Title="Bumps on outer walls consistantly affecting lower layers" Tags="|creality-ender-3|print-quality|troubleshooting|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18932" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18961" CreationDate="2022-02-15T02:54:12.907" Score="2" ViewCount="9753" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have just bought a Creality CR-10 Smart 3D printer, and - as part of the rite of passage of newbies - I am struggling with getting a usable initial layer. Whilst trying to make sense of what I was seeing in the net and correlating it with what I was experiencing with my printer, I thought to check the printer's credentials (I had assumed it was a recent model). However, looking at the information on the LED screen, I see:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;div class=&quot;s-table-container&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;table class=&quot;s-table&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;thead&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;th&gt;&lt;/th&gt;&#xA;&lt;th&gt;&lt;/th&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;/thead&gt;&#xA;&lt;tbody&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Machine type&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;CR-10 Smart&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Firmware version&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;HW 1.0.6&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Screen version&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;T18&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Hardware version&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;DWIN 4.3&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tbody&gt;&#xA;&lt;/table&gt;&#xA;&lt;/div&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can anyone comment on whether this is recent or ancient? Is it a V1 or a V2?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a software engineer of several decades standing, but a complete newbie to 3D printing, I'm suffering from culture shock, and I'm struggling to understand why my printer doesn't just work &amp;quot;out of the box&amp;quot; like my line printers do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I find it particularly difficult sorting out the information about Creality's various CR-10* models, partly because of the naming conventions, but chiefly because my CR-10 Smart doesn't look like any that I have seen referred to anywhere in the net. I was told that the CR-10 Smart had auto bed levelling (ABL) built in, but when I search for &lt;code&gt;CR-10S ABL&lt;/code&gt; I only find stuff about add-ons like BLTouch, and nothing about the CR-10 Smart with built-in ABL.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Add into the mix the now traditional Internet problem that the date of web pages and whether they are still relevant is often unclear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then I found a Youtube video by &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l4I8b5-71rk&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;WillCaddy&lt;/a&gt;, which suggested that CR-10S printers with Creality firmware do not have ABL enabled, and that to get functioning ABL you had to install TH3D.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this true?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If anyone can help me with any of this, I would be very grateful. I am working my way slowly through Michael Laws' excellent &lt;a href=&quot;https://teachingtechyt.github.io/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&amp;quot;Teaching Tech&amp;quot; channel&lt;/a&gt;, but I'm impatient...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="32843" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2022-02-15T16:16:10.967" LastActivityDate="2022-02-23T12:31:01.150" Title="How do you make a new CR-10 Smart do auto bed-levelling?" Tags="|bed-leveling|creality-cr-10|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18933" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18531" CreationDate="2022-02-15T11:23:41.023" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;After much fiddling about, the only positive conclusion I could come up with was to not make the letters too thin.  A chunky thick letter has more surface area to adhere, whereas a thin spidery letter is too fragile.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So print fewer words on each label, make the words more-bold, and if they still fall off after printing then CA glue/superglue is good enough to hold them together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12956" LastActivityDate="2022-02-15T11:23:41.023" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18935" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18932" CreationDate="2022-02-15T13:29:34.720" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Leveling (&lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/16605/5740&quot;&gt;actually scanning the surface&lt;/a&gt;) can be done manually prior to executing a print job.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the graphical interface you can command the Automatic Bed Leveling on the CR-10 Smart (Settings -&amp;gt; Level):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/sDhmslJpqTo?start=0&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It appears that the print head is sensitive to the pressure the head (nozzle) exerts to the build surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The procedure start in the middle of the bed for you to determine the nozzle to touch the build surface. The printer will then proceed the scanning of the surface (25 point in the video&lt;sup&gt;1)&lt;/sup&gt;). This procedure is done prior to printing a print job and stores the scanned surface into memory. Unless you hit the gantry, put extreme pressure on the build surface or move the printer to a different location, this scanned level should at least last for several prints. Alternatively, you could add G-code &lt;code&gt;G29&lt;/code&gt; to your start G-code which will cause it to scan the surface before each print, see for details &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/15952/using-auto-bed-leveling-do-i-need-to-initiate-g29-before-every-print&quot;&gt;Using auto-bed leveling, do I need to initiate G29 before every print?&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So far, this is how it is supposed to work! Does it actually work?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wU7HMYiOTo8&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this review&lt;/a&gt;,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/wU7HMYiOTo8?start=796&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;it clearly does not compensate for the surface geometry. The reviewer hints that this is &amp;quot;not optimized or not activated in the firmware&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;to get functioning ABL you had to install TH3D.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Is this true?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So activating this requires a firmware update to become active. From a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.creality.com/blog-detail/cr-10-smart-firmware-notification&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;notice by Creality&lt;/a&gt; on this leveling issue:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After receiving feedback from a number of users regarding the leveling capabilities of the CR-10 SMART 3d printer, Creality's product researchers quickly responded with an update to the CR-10 SMART firmware.Following are the Tips for better leveling.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;One-click upgrade to the latest firmware version v1.0.10.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;it appears that it is fixed if you update to the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.creality.com/download&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;firmware version v1.0.10 released at 10 Sept., 2021&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1)&lt;/sup&gt; &lt;em&gt;It is not advised to do a 25 point scanning of the surface before each print, this takes about 3 minutes. These higher scanning grid points meshes are useful for once in a while scanning. The validity of the use of 25 point is also up for debate, the build surface is glass which is inherently flat due to its production process, less points may work as well to scan the print plane/mesh.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2022-02-15T16:21:34.007" LastActivityDate="2022-02-15T16:21:34.007" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18936" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-02-15T19:36:25.457" Score="2" ViewCount="276" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to get good-quality thin wall prints with PLA on my Creality CR10s Pro V2 using Cura. After hours of calibration and testing, I'm getting quite good results. However, there is one issue I can't figure out. It seems that I'm getting uneven extrusion and blobs when the printer deaccelerates or accelerates. This issue causes problems with rounded corners on my test prints (see photos). In Cura, there is no retraction or anything in the arc, just accelerations. I have experimented with acceleration and jerk without success. I also tried to decrease the print speed from 50 mm/s to 20 mm/s, and it seems to have a minor positive effect. Anyone got any ideas on what values I need to change? Can this be a mechanical problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;General print settings:&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Temp: 210 °C&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Layer: 0.2 mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Infill: 0 %&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Retraction distance: 3 mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Retraction speed: 60 mm/s&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cooling: 80 %&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Flow: 102.5 %&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Acceleration: 500 mm/s&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Jerk: 20 mm/s (Tried values from 5 to 20)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Printed at 50 mm/s:&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OaIEh.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Printed model with blobs printing errors&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OaIEh.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Printed model with blobs printing errors&quot; title=&quot;Printed model with blobs printing errors&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Printed at 20 mm/s:&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lNsIp.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Printed model that has been printed slower but still has blobs printing errors&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lNsIp.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Printed model that has been printed slower but still has blobs printing errors&quot; title=&quot;Printed model that has been printed slower but still has blobs printing errors&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Cura:&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gFj1J.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Screenshot of the rendered model in Cura&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gFj1J.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Screenshot of the rendered model in Cura&quot; title=&quot;Screenshot of the rendered model in Cura&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="33149" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2022-02-15T20:50:40.767" LastActivityDate="2022-03-20T19:33:47.167" Title="Issue with uneven surface when printing speed changes" Tags="|print-quality|ultimaker-cura|pla|creality-cr-10|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18937" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18936" CreationDate="2022-02-16T02:12:40.307" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you haven't already, try rotating the object about the Z-axis to give a different orientation with respect to X and Y.  May not correct the problem but if the effect changes it may shed some light on the cause.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="33030" LastActivityDate="2022-02-16T02:12:40.307" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18938" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-02-16T08:53:46.320" Score="1" ViewCount="2393" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is it possible to use OctoPrint with an Ender 5 Pro that is still using the factory default firmware (any version) from Creality, or is changing the firmware an absolute pre requisite for even basic functionality.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is for a situation where there are a dozen Ender 5 printers on lease hire, and no unauthorised modifications are permitted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="29097" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2022-02-16T09:09:46.097" LastActivityDate="2022-03-18T14:02:25.180" Title="Can you use OctoPrint on an Ender 5 pro with the stock firmware?" Tags="|firmware|creality-ender-5|octoprint|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18939" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18938" CreationDate="2022-02-16T12:25:58.257" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, OctoPrint is a print server which works independently from the controller board hardware. It simply sends commands to the printer. If you have a USB socket on the controller board and know the communication speed you can connect the printer to OctoPrint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It will not work if the printer has a faulty or no USB connection. From an internet search it appears that the economical Ender hardware does have some issues with USB, but in theory you should be able to connect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You only need to flash the Ender 5 controller board if you want to use Klipper firmware and use the OctoPrint Klipper plugin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a video showing how to setup OctoPrint in conjunction with an Ender 5:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/dDcnyCt8bSc?start=0&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2022-02-16T13:37:54.183" LastActivityDate="2022-02-16T13:37:54.183" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18940" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18941" CreationDate="2022-02-16T18:23:28.403" Score="3" ViewCount="93" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm considering buying my first 3D printer. The only place in my house where I have enough space is the garage, and I fear a PLA printer will suffer from the possible temperature differences I may have there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For this reason (And also the fact that it seems smoother) i'm considering buying a resin printer (like the Elegoo Mars), but I wanted to know if the fact it will be in a garage could be a bad idea? I imagine resin printing is far less sensible to temperature variations, but I may be wrong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I will only print as a hobby, probably some figurines for me and my kids to paint, or small hardware pieces / boxes for electronic components.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="33159" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2022-02-16T20:16:00.990" LastActivityDate="2022-02-16T20:16:00.990" Title="Is resin printing correct for my needs &amp; limitations?" Tags="|resin|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18941" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18940" CreationDate="2022-02-16T20:10:13.077" Score="4" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Resin likes it warm and dark&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Resins increase in viscosity at low temperatures, so having low temperatures may have bad effects on the prints. However, Resin also likes it dark, so if your garage has a temperature above about 10 °C and is dry enough to prevent condensation, then your garage would be a good place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Figurines and high detail models are a common use case for resin&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is near impossible to print miniatures for wargaming and similar in FDM, but resin printers are a very common type for this use case. Similarly, Cosplay props with a very high detail grade can benefit from being printed in resin, either directly or as an intermediate step to create a mold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With the proper equipment, one could make flexible molds to cast wax positives which then can be used with the lost-wax-technique to create many high detailed metal copies of the printed first positive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Containers are a possible use case for resin&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Resin prints are more brittle than FDM prints. While limited in size, such containers, just as much as casings for electronics, are a possible usecase. In fact, replacement casings for retro electronics (think SNES controllers or N64 Cartridges during restoration projects) are somewhat common, even though they have not the same sturdiness as the original ABS casings. Here, the high detail grade makes the cut.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Tooling is a poor use case&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Resin prints are very brittle and have little to no ductile movement. While I have used FDM-printed parts from PLA in a few projects to make adapters between machines and my shop vacuum as well as to create an aluminium bending tool, resin printed parts with their near to no flexibility are generally a poor use case to create hardware or tooling from.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastActivityDate="2022-02-16T20:10:13.077" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18942" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7836" CreationDate="2022-02-17T01:02:35.157" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Old thread, but I have a direct answer to the specific question asked. This is a technique I haven't seen documented elsewhere and works quite well for me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Clean glass plate with an isopropyl alcohol swab - allow to air dry thoroughly.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Apply blue tape (two best known, big-name brands work best) to glass plate assuring no overlaps - slight gaps OK.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Put the plate on the heated bed, tape side down.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Turn bed heat on to 50 °C for about 3 minutes.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Quickly remove the plate and firmly roll the entire surface of the tape with a wallpaper seam roller while the tape adhesive is still warm.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Proceed normally, with or without a glue stick on the tape.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="33030" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2022-02-17T04:09:21.873" LastActivityDate="2022-02-17T04:09:21.873" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18943" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-02-17T14:28:37.807" Score="1" ViewCount="115" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hi I am trying to obtain the STL for the automatically generated support structure for a part that has been 3D printed, is there any way of doing this from the GrabCAD .print file? Or any work-arounds?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="33179" LastActivityDate="2022-02-18T23:21:51.997" Title="Converting .print file to STL" Tags="|stl|grabcad-print|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18944" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-02-17T17:56:02.920" Score="0" ViewCount="226" Body="&lt;p&gt;Specs:&#xA;Printer Configuration: Delta&#xA;Firmware: Marlin 2.x&#xA;Probe: Conductive nozzle (Verified repeatable 0.01 mm accuracy)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm working on calibrating my delta printer to 0.01 mm +/- 0.02 accuracy. Every guide I see either says &amp;quot;run G33 that should be good enough&amp;quot; (news flash it isn't lol) or they reference this &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:745523&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Advanced Delta Calibration&lt;/a&gt; tool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which relies on your filament/nozzle diameter/flow rate/temperature to all be exactly precise (which isn't physically possible if we're talking about differences small enough to affect dimension calculations in some way).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm essentially looking for a precision tuning guide for a &amp;quot;delta robot with a probe&amp;quot; rather than one for a &amp;quot;delta 3D printer&amp;quot;. Does a guide like this exist?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If not, maybe you guys have calculations that may help. Right now I'm working on tower angles and individual rod offsets using this &lt;a href=&quot;https://pastebin.com/2PZsD4vv&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;script&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It probes towers and opposite towers in the order of: Z-ZY-Y-YX-X-XZ-Center.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With a loosely leveled bed (+/- 0.05 mm @ towers) and a &lt;code&gt;G33 P2&lt;/code&gt; I get probe values:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Z: -0.08&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;ZY: -0.21&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Y: -0.01&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;YX 0.23&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;X: 0.02&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;XZ: -0.66&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;C: 0.01&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which is essentially a &amp;quot;tilted pringle&amp;quot; shape which can be visualized &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.chillrain.com/index.php/3d-printer-auto-bed-leveling-mesh-visualizer/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; with this &lt;a href=&quot;https://pastebin.com/r58U38aJ&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;input&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just wondering what to do about inaccuracies in the diagonals. Is there a formula for tower angle/rod length based on probe points? And if not is there a more accurate way of doing this that doesn't involve printing something?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="33180" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2022-02-17T18:26:54.087" LastActivityDate="2022-02-21T23:08:47.473" Title="Advanced Delta Printer Calibration Question" Tags="|calibration|delta|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18947" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7836" CreationDate="2022-02-17T21:24:35.590" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;While the other answers are correct, I would say that another correct answer is: you don't keep it from lifting up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it lifts up it means that the part is warping significantly, and blue tape has never been meant to deal with those.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Blue tape was introduced in the 3D printing when PLA took over ABS (like 8-10 years ago), therefore specifically because with PLA you didn't incur in the warping ABS had.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the part is curling up, go for better solutions. You already have the PEI, so use that one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you print ABS with an open printer, which is totally possible, you should ditch the blue tape and check my &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/16538/2338&quot;&gt;other answer&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2338" LastActivityDate="2022-02-17T21:24:35.590" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18948" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18949" CreationDate="2022-02-18T03:52:43.093" Score="7" ViewCount="893" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am running into what honestly seems like a bug in OpenSCAD, but I can't believe that something so simple could reveal a bug. I am trying to render the following code:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;module tri_prism(base1, base2) {&#xA;    polyhedron([&#xA;        base1[0], base1[1], base1[2],&#xA;        base2[0], base2[1], base2[2]],&#xA;        [[0,1,2],[3,4,5],&#xA;        [0,1,4,3],[1,2,5,4],[2,0,3,5]],&#xA;        convexity=5);&#xA;}&#xA;&#xA;union() {&#xA;    tri_prism(&#xA;        [[0,0,0],[0,1,0],[1,0,0]],&#xA;        [[0,0,1],[0,1,1],[1,0,1]]);&#xA;    tri_prism(&#xA;        [[2,1,0],[2,0,0],[1,1,0]],&#xA;        [[2,1,1],[2,0,1],[1,1,1]]);&#xA;}&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This should render two (non-overlapping) triangular prisms, like so:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YZwAU.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Two triangular prisms side-by-side&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YZwAU.png&quot; alt=&quot;Two triangular prisms side-by-side&quot; title=&quot;Two triangular prisms side-by-side&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, this image is only the preview. When I hit &lt;kbd&gt;F6&lt;/kbd&gt;, it renders this, with only the triangular bases being rendered:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TgpBw.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Only the triangular bases are rendered&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TgpBw.png&quot; alt=&quot;Only the triangular bases are rendered&quot; title=&quot;Only the triangular bases are rendered&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And the console shows this warning, which I don't know the meaning of because I am a beginner:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;UI-WARNING: Object may not be a valid 2-manifold and may need repair!&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Each of the prisms individually renders just fine, but the two of them together don't. Also, it is not merely a problem of appearance since exporting it as STL and opening it in Cura, I see the same useless nonsense.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this a bug or am I doing something wrong? And if it is a bug, how do I work around it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="33185" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2022-02-22T17:12:01.320" LastActivityDate="2022-02-22T17:12:01.320" Title="OpenSCAD can't render union of two polyhedrons, but can preview just fine" Tags="|openscad|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18949" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18948" CreationDate="2022-02-18T05:49:38.840" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a case of &amp;quot;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikibooks.org/wiki/OpenSCAD_User_Manual/Primitive_Solids#Mis-ordered_faces&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Mis-ordered faces&lt;/a&gt;&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That means the order in which the vertices making up one or more faces aren't in the correct order.&#xA;The vertices of a face should be listed in clockwise order from the perspective of a camera looking at the face form the exterior of the polyhedron.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this case, the problem can be solved by reordering the &lt;code&gt;[0,1,2]&lt;/code&gt; face of the &lt;code&gt;tri_prism&lt;/code&gt; polyhedron as, for example, &lt;code&gt;[0,2,1]&lt;/code&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The misordered face(s) can be found by enabling the &lt;strong&gt;Thrown Together&lt;/strong&gt; option from the &lt;strong&gt;View&lt;/strong&gt; menu and &lt;strong&gt;Preview&lt;/strong&gt;ing. The faces in question will be shown in magenta.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why, then, if the faces are mis-ordered, did the prisms render just fine individually? My guess is that faces have to be properly ordered to be sure to get a correct Render. The behavior of Render is simply indeterminate for polyhedra with misordered faces. It can work in some situations, but it's not guaranteed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: I forgot to add that, in my opinion, this shouldn't be an issue, and that if it's such a big problem for the Rendering subroutine, it should intelligently reorder the mis-ordered faces in a prelude. It would avoid beginners such needless troubles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="33185" LastEditorUserId="33185" LastEditDate="2022-02-18T06:02:12.870" LastActivityDate="2022-02-18T06:02:12.870" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18950" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3591" CreationDate="2022-02-18T10:25:25.210" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use parchment paper, the kind that you buy on sheets for baking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It come off nicely but there are adhesion problems if you want to do sharp corners.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I prefer using ordinary printer paper for that. You can simply soak any scraps of paper off in a sink.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="29097" LastActivityDate="2022-02-18T10:25:25.210" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18952" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18918" CreationDate="2022-02-18T17:33:54.413" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't think it's because of Cura. You can try if it still works with the older version.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Otherwise, clean your print bed with isopropanol before printing to remove residues or level again.  Without pictures of the condition of the print bed or the first layer, it is difficult to help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="33189" LastActivityDate="2022-02-18T17:33:54.413" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18953" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18936" CreationDate="2022-02-18T17:43:11.480" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It could be that the pressure in your nozzle is too high. I would switch on Coasting in Cura and see what effect that has.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="33189" LastEditorUserId="33189" LastEditDate="2022-02-18T18:09:22.360" LastActivityDate="2022-02-18T18:09:22.360" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18954" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18956" CreationDate="2022-02-18T18:59:54.770" Score="2" ViewCount="875" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Creality cr-10 printer. Everything is stock except for the direct drive extrusion system (I bought a conversion kit from Micro Swiss).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have been working to dial in my settings, and I think they are almost there, with a few exceptions. There seems to be roughness/blobs at the layer transitions on my prints. This was present before my conversion to the direct drive system as well. I calibrated the steps/mm after the change as well. What settings should I focus on to try to get rid of this? Or is it some sort of mechanical issue? I've included some example pictures:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RBTkz.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RBTkz.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Zf3kd.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Zf3kd.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RfpeQ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RfpeQ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="33195" LastActivityDate="2022-02-18T23:39:26.087" Title="Issues with layer changes/z-seam" Tags="|print-quality|creality-cr-10|direct-drive|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18955" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18943" CreationDate="2022-02-18T23:21:51.997" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;STL files represent solid objects as triangles covering a surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most support structures are not solid objects, but thin walls whose size depends on the diameter of your nozzle, and in some cases, calling them walls is generous.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Support structure is usually generated at the slicer level, which generates images of layers or gcode tool paths, and it does not make sense to translate that back into an STL.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28397" LastActivityDate="2022-02-18T23:21:51.997" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18956" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18954" CreationDate="2022-02-18T23:39:26.087" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;From your pictures, the blobs are (at least mostly) not at layer changes but at &lt;em&gt;speed changes&lt;/em&gt; where the toolhead has to drastically slow down and speed back up to go around a sharp corner (including as a special case a corner in the Z direction, i.e. a layer change). This happens because, when the toolhead slows down, there is still pressure in the nozzle due to forces that cause the plastic to resist being extruded to a degree that scales with the speed of extrusion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The right solution to this problem is enabling and calibrating &lt;a href=&quot;https://marlinfw.org/docs/features/lin_advance.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Linear Advance&lt;/a&gt;, which directly models and compensates for the phenomenon. Unfortunately, most printers including yours are still shipping with firmware too old to have this feature, or built without including it. So, your options are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Update to firmware with linear advance and calibrate it. The factor for PLA on a direct drive is likely to be around 0.04-0.06. This is the best solution but might be unnerving if you're not comfortable with making that kind of change to your printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Print at lower speeds, so that there's less difference between the cruise speed and the speed at/near the corners.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Print at higher acceleration/jerk, so that the decel/accel cycle at corners happens much faster giving less time for the residual pressure to push out more material.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some of the issues in your pictures, however, look similar to &amp;quot;blobs&amp;quot; but apppear to be warping/curling from insufficient cooling or excess bed temperature. These are the ones in the first few mm of the print, below the lettering on the back (the lettering clearly has actual blobs). Using a lower bed temperature or even unheated bed, and/or improving your cooling (replacing the part cooling fan with a larger one, or pointing a desk fan at the printer during printing) should make these issues go away. You can probably also avoid it by printing significantly slower, or possibly by reconfiguring your slicer to print the outer wall first, before inner walls.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2022-02-18T23:39:26.087" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18957" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-02-19T20:54:35.933" Score="1" ViewCount="276" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just assembled my Ender 3 last night, this is my first printer and I’m new to this all. After about 10-15 minutes into printing it consistently gives me a thermal runaway error. Any help would be appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The (part cooling) fan is spinning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="33204" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2024-03-27T10:14:40.587" LastActivityDate="2024-03-27T10:14:40.587" Title="New Ender 3 Pro Thermal Runaway" Tags="|creality-ender-3|thermal-runaway|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18958" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18918" CreationDate="2022-02-20T09:23:12.213" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Have tried all the possible answers and found the older version of Cura works better with the Chiron.  The printer is 3 months old, bed is cleaned after each print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I then tried the new Cura version again but with glue for adhesion,  that works.  It seems that it is changing the bed temperature, and using a lower default.  Have tried changing the bed temperature in the software before slicing, but found I have to manually set the temperature on the printer, I have been using the generic settings for the PLA, as the ones I have (E-DA) are not in the selection or in the market place.  TPU and PETG are printing fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will have to determine the optimum set-up and create my own defaults.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="33106" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2022-02-20T09:30:00.077" LastActivityDate="2022-02-20T09:30:00.077" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18959" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-02-20T15:45:03.297" Score="4" ViewCount="870" Body="&lt;p&gt;I tried printing something after 7 weeks of not using the printer (before it worked greatly) and I think it doesn't extrude properly (although I'm not sure about it).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I tell the printer to extrude filament it works just fine, but during the print there seems to be a problem with it (see image below). When manually pushing the filament with some force, it works for a bit, but stops working after 1 minute.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried cleaning the gear, levelling and cleaning the bed with almost no success.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm using a Creality Ender 3 with a (golden) PLA filament.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is how the print error looks like. The first layer should be completely filled.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1RAIk.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Failed first layer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1RAIk.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Failed first layer&quot; title=&quot;Failed first layer&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: I didn't change anything (neither the filament nor the software) and before it was printing fine with 200 °C.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="33211" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2022-02-28T13:31:12.480" LastActivityDate="2022-02-28T13:31:12.480" Title="Ender 3 doesn't extrude enough?" Tags="|creality-ender-3|troubleshooting|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18960" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18965" CreationDate="2022-02-20T22:28:43.913" Score="2" ViewCount="404" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to use magnets to hold the lid of a box down tight enough to keep it relatively airtight (along with a rubber seal etc.), but I am not sure what strength of magnet to use, that will still allow it to be opened without causing damage either by having to be pried open or by crushing the print layers. I cannot seem to find any guide to how magnets are used for 3d printing at various strengths and I cannot afford to buy too many types that I am not then going to use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any help that you can provide will be greatly appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13327" LastActivityDate="2022-02-22T06:14:59.883" Title="How Do I Determine The Appropriate Magnet Strength For A Tight Seal On A Box" Tags="|3d-design|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18961" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18932" CreationDate="2022-02-20T23:10:17.833" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;@0scar asked me to post this answer and accept it (see the comment above). I'll try to describe everything I did, most of which helped a little bit but didn't really solve the problem. Bear in mind that I'm a complete newbie to 3D printing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Although I knew my printer was a Creality, I didn't know that a CR-10 Smart is not the same thing as a CR-10S. Mine is a CR-10 Smart.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I upgraded the firmware from 1.0.7 to 1.0.10. I managed to brick the computer entirely doing this, but I managed to fix it in the end. I found &lt;a href=&quot;https://yarkspirifantasyart.com/cr-10-smart-how-to-update-the-firmware&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this post&lt;/a&gt; particularly helpful whilst doing this.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I used OctoPrint's Bed Visualizer to update the mesh for my printer's ABL. The mesh is stored in EEPROM, so this doesn't have to be done often.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I didn't understand how OctoPrint's Bed Visualizer managed to produce the shape for the print plate that it did, so I checked the bolts under the glass plate, discovered they were loose, tightened them up, re-ran the mesh generation and got a considerably more plausible plate geometry.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I discovered that Creality Slicer (a variant of Cura) does not include &lt;code&gt;G29&lt;/code&gt; or &lt;code&gt;M420 S1&lt;/code&gt; in the G-code that it generates by default for the CR-10 Smart, so I added &lt;code&gt;M420 S1&lt;/code&gt; to the printer's machine settings which tells it to use the mesh stored by Bed Visualizer.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I have been following &lt;a href=&quot;https://teachingtechyt.github.io/index.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Teaching Tech's 3D Printer Calibration&lt;/a&gt; and, after upgrading the firmware, I started setting up my first layer generation and got a reasonable result. At this point I thought the problem was solved.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I celebrated by printing a 3D Benchy, but that was a sobering experience and I returned to Teaching Tech.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The next step in Teaching Tech's 3D Printer Calibration that I tried was &lt;a href=&quot;https://teachingtechyt.github.io/calibration.html#temp&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;temperature tuning&lt;/a&gt;. That was a complete disaster, so I moved on to &lt;a href=&quot;https://teachingtechyt.github.io/calibration.html#retraction&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;retraction tuning&lt;/a&gt;, since the Benchy had lots of stringing. Retraction tuning was also disastrous, so I decided to stand back and think a bit.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;For some reason I looked more closely at my printer's nozzle. For some reason, I assumed 0.4 mm was a kind of standard for a hot end nozzle, so I was using that in my settings, also because I thought my printer had a 0.4 mm nozzle. However, closer examination revealed that the nozzle is at least 1.0 mm, if not 1.5 mm. Not surprisingly, once I told the slicer the correct nozzle size, printing improved dramatically.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the meantime, I believe that my basic problem was always the nozzle size, though – as you can see above – there were a number of other things that I corrected on the way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So now @0scar and I believe that the problem addressed in the title has been solved, and – in accordance with @0scar's wishes – I will accept my answer, though his input was instrumental in finding the solution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I shall now devote myself to the rest of Teaching Tech's 3D Printer Calibration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="32843" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2022-02-23T12:31:01.150" LastActivityDate="2022-02-23T12:31:01.150" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18962" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18960" CreationDate="2022-02-21T03:08:21.830" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had a similar experience using magnets to hold two plates together. Currently also building a device (3d-printed) that clamps together with magnets. For both of these scenarios, I typically start by looking at what size and force you need. I would look into maybe 3 options of different magnets to start with. It could be in the range of 0.6 lbs, 4lbs and 6lbs. Do you know how much the &amp;quot;opening force&amp;quot; would be? As in what would keep it opening? If its substantial, I could see more the 6lbs but this is a very very very rough estimate that honestly would be best supported with trying a few ranges of magnets first. Try McMasterCarr if you're in the US. They have affordable sized magnets that I've worked with, ranging from different sizes, thicknesses and magnetic forces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20806" LastActivityDate="2022-02-21T03:08:21.830" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18963" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13776" CreationDate="2022-02-21T08:18:20.133" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had an issue with my Vat Bolts, one being cracked and leveling at a greater tension than the other.  With the compressible feet of my Vat this caused a problem in the FEP.  This was enough to cause failure on one side more than the other.  Cause was verified by switching the left and right knobs, thus shifting the failures to the opposite side of the print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just a thought.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="33216" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2022-02-21T23:29:48.613" LastActivityDate="2022-02-21T23:29:48.613" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18964" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18959" CreationDate="2022-02-21T14:14:01.993" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would first check that your nozzle temperature is correct for the PLA you are using.  If it is correct, try increasing it 5-10 °C.  I experienced an identical issue and found that it was an incorrect nozzle temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="33042" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2022-02-21T15:12:57.390" LastActivityDate="2022-02-21T15:12:57.390" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18965" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18960" CreationDate="2022-02-21T19:37:14.743" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can vary the “strength” of the magnet by making a membrane of 3D printed plastic in between the magnets. The strength of the attraction is something like a logarithmic relationship to distance- small changes in thickness of material in between the magnets have a large effect on how strong they stick to each other. You could dial in your print by buying strong rare earth magnets and experimenting with attenuating the strength with the membrane. Could even use sheets of paper to get the right feel, then measure the thickness of the stack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If using an fdm printer, it could be helpful to insert the magnets with a pause in the printing, and print over the top, if there isn’t a good way to otherwise capture them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27077" LastActivityDate="2022-02-21T19:37:14.743" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18966" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18944" CreationDate="2022-02-21T23:08:47.473" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I designed and built both a full Stewart platform, 6-dof router, and a &amp;quot;delta&amp;quot; style, constrained Stewart platform 3D printer with 3-dof.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the 6-dof machine, I postulated a set of error variables and used simulated annealing to find a good estimate of the error values.  Those error values were inputs to the kinematics and gave much better results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the 3-dof machine, I found it difficult to calibrate love the whole 18&amp;quot; diameter print bed, and decided that a real fit may not be worth the trouble.  Instead, I mapped the surface using a probe, and fit an error function to that data.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After trying a few methods of measuring the bed surface,  I settled on using a strain gauge to measure nozzle contact.  I had tried electrical contact, IR parallax sensors, and inductive sensors, but all had unfortunate ways to give bad measurements.  A strain gauge worked better, although it, too, is subject to problems if there is debris on the bed, or plastic that flows through the nozzle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I make my next set of changes to the 3-dof delta 3D printer, given the superior sensing of the strain gauge, I may go back to a scheme of estimating error variables.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a lot of potential errors, all of which affect a delta machine's ability to know where the Z=0 cartesian plane lies.  Any positioning error of the joints, any error in the spacing between joints, any racking of the printer structure, and any non-orthogonal-to-the-bed movements of the top joints will give you various compound cup and disk errors.  Even the uncertainty of the home sensors adds an expected curved error to what should be the Z=0 cartesian plane.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My experience has been that the most important thing in 3D printing -- knowing exactly where the bed is and maintaining a uniform height for the first layer -- is the hardest thing to get right with a delta machine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2082" LastActivityDate="2022-02-21T23:08:47.473" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18968" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18957" CreationDate="2022-02-22T11:42:57.663" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Thermal runaway occurs when the hotend is on, but the sensor does not pickup any temperature increase. In many cases the thermistor is broken or the connection is bad.&#xA;A friend of mine had the thermistor broken on his Ender 3 pro. It worked sometimes and sometimes not. Buy a new thermistor.(a few $ only) and replace it to be sure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4708" LastActivityDate="2022-02-22T11:42:57.663" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18975" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18979" CreationDate="2022-02-22T18:22:08.747" Score="2" ViewCount="132" Body="&lt;p&gt;Every time I print a large area I get the pattern in the middle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PfS6f.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PfS6f.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;pattern on first layer&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Below picture was taken during printing. The material isn't evenly laid flat on the bed and some are being scraped up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It appears from some centimeters away from the edge and extends perpendicular to the nozzle moving direction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UoFFo.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UoFFo.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;during print&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The pattern appears at the similar position when I print the same model again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's a delta printer. Print PETG on glass bed at 75 °C.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update&lt;/strong&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After adjusting delta height to add clearance, the first layer is super clean without any wave.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="162" LastEditorUserId="162" LastEditDate="2022-02-25T06:50:03.837" LastActivityDate="2022-02-25T06:50:03.837" Title="What cause the pattern in a large area?" Tags="|print-quality|petg|delta|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18978" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-02-22T21:48:17.707" Score="2" ViewCount="1212" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought the Creality Ender 5 Pro 29th of December 2021, so it's pretty new.&#xA;I have done about a hundred prints by now, without any problems, it's a damn good workhorse... until last Friday.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The printer stopped after making the brim, just full stop, the board didn't respond so I had to turn the printer off and on. I tried to resume the print but it stopped working right away, after that I turned it off and on again, and send it to auto home, that just works fine. Restarted the same but new print, and everything stopped working at the same spot again. Turned on some other prints, same thing stopped working after the brim.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At this point, I decided to check out the hotend, filament, etc. I couldn't do much with the hotend as the nozzle was fully stuck, unable to remove, so I bought a full new hotend set. It didn't solve the problem, even with the new hotend it stops after printing the brim. So I tried different slicers, again, no difference. Cura/Creality/Prusa slicers, nothing works.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried changing the settings of the prints, but nothing worked either.&#xA;I did notice that the printer stops at the same point, which is almost right in the middle of the bed.&#xA;I have a new bed, a PEI bed, which is not deformed it has no bumps.&#xA;I did not do anything with the programming, I also did not change the motherboard. The bed is perfectly level. The filament doesn't seem to be a problem either after using up 3 kilos already without problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So to remove some things that ain't the problem:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the bed is not the problem&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;slicer program is not the problem&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;hotend is not the problem&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;bed level is not the problem&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So there are 2 things left (what I know about).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the SD card&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;motherboard/software&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If anybody knows what the problem might be, or what else I can do to fix it, please let me know. I'm starting to run out of ideas that I myself can fix.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The prints I have tried are different models (STL file) and different slicers are used.&#xA;I made a new model, a simple 2 cm by 2 cm by 3 mm square, it stops after the brim.&#xA;I tried the prefab dog model that is on the SD card, without a brim, and it stops around the same time/spot, the only difference is that it keeps pushing out filament which does not happen with the self-made models.&#xA;I also found out that it happens at all places, there is no difference in printing in the left corner, or in the middle of the bed.&#xA;I unplugged all the cables and connectors and reconnected them again, I removed the hotend and attached it again, so that it is perfectly lined up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A video of the problem: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.loom.com/share/d58e7e1db719480f81b765e83988e9e4?fbclid=IwAR2GT0MA2VtEO7TpB2jx9Km5Kf4sJkD5W3CYHjAgFbf51fGrWaoGm-_9MSU&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.loom.com/share/d58e7e1db719480f81b765e83988e9e4?fbclid=IwAR2GT0MA2VtEO7TpB2jx9Km5Kf4sJkD5W3CYHjAgFbf51fGrWaoGm-_9MSU&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="33251" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2022-02-23T17:43:20.460" LastActivityDate="2022-12-20T08:29:29.307" Title="Creality Ender 5 Pro stops working" Tags="|creality-ender-5|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18979" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18975" CreationDate="2022-02-22T21:57:35.363" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The wavy lay down on the first layer usually indicates one of two problems:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The first layer is badly calibrated (too much distance, laying down in waves or too little, squeezing out in waves).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The plastic doesn't stick to the bed well enough.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2022-02-24T10:10:24.640" LastActivityDate="2022-02-24T10:10:24.640" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18980" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-02-22T23:34:36.157" Score="2" ViewCount="27" Body="&lt;p&gt;I tried printing this mesh sheet, but the mesh part doesn't connect with the edge on one side. I have no idea what would be causing this. Is it something with the model? Is there a setting I can change in my slicer? Any help on this would be greatly appreciated!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the model that I am using: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5214203&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;3D Printed Mesh Sheet&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm printing with PLA on a Voxelab Aquila printer, and using Cura as my slicer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you can see, the mesh is not connected to the edge of the print:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/k1x8f.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Mesh not connected to fourth edge of frame&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/k1x8f.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Mesh not connected to fourth edge of frame&quot; title=&quot;Mesh not connected to fourth edge of frame&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="33252" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2022-02-23T02:03:01.100" LastActivityDate="2022-02-23T02:03:01.100" Title="Print not fully connected to edge of frame" Tags="|pla|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18981" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3519" CreationDate="2022-02-22T23:51:27.220" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Late to the party here but I am doing this exact thing. I stupidly bought like a dozen rolls of 3mm filament for about $6 a Kg. I think trying the switch should be fun...but I have 7 printers so its no big deal to tinker on one of them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What you need to do is modify the extruder. I have done this successfully using the crappy plastic extruders which come with most budget printers. You have to drill out the filament path to fit the 3 mm filament. It does get a little tricky to get the filament to run through nicely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You actually &lt;strong&gt;do not&lt;/strong&gt; need to modify your hot end other than your Bowden tube and your nozzle. Regular Bowden tube is 2 mm ID and 4 mm OD, so you just order 3 mm ID and 4 mm OD tube. Please note that this plan &lt;strong&gt;will not&lt;/strong&gt; work for an all metal 1.75 mm hotend.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the nozzle you can often find 3 mm compatible nozzles. Unfortunately they don't seem to be made for the MK10 hotend. So I simply ordered big ole 1 mm nozzles made for 1.75 mm and I am going to drill out the back for the 2.85 mm (3 mm) filament.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am excited to see how this all works. You can get some really good deals on 3 mm filament &lt;em&gt;and&lt;/em&gt; I suspect that it will actually work much better for things like TPU since it is significantly more rigid due to the increased diameter!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="33253" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2022-02-23T02:06:29.423" LastActivityDate="2022-02-23T02:06:29.423" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18982" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16210" CreationDate="2022-02-23T03:52:35.910" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had the same issue. The probe for the BL touch was just stuck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I manually pulled it out and tightened the screw and then the problem was fixed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="33258" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2022-02-23T05:41:56.210" LastActivityDate="2022-02-23T05:41:56.210" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18983" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-02-23T15:27:54.883" Score="1" ViewCount="267" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought a 3D printer 2nd hand from someone a year and a half ago and finally set it up last week (I know I'm terrible). It's an Anycubic Mega Zero. I'm pretty sure it's the first version not the 2.0 as it doesn't have a hotbed. My question is what aftermarket parts are compatible (preferably plug and play) with it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've searched the name and model and am not coming up with a straight answer. Is there a specific model or &amp;quot;type&amp;quot; I should look for to know it will be compatible? Or a place that's a good site to work off of other than Amazon that maybe they actually know when I ask a question?.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm mainly concerned with parts that I can just plug in and go with minimal setup or &lt;strong&gt;very&lt;/strong&gt; good directions explained well. Feel free to add more advanced options also for consideration later such as dual head extruders and maybe an explanation on how to modify firmware (links if available).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/w07KX.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/w07KX.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="33256" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2022-02-24T04:03:22.847" LastActivityDate="2022-02-24T04:03:22.847" Title="What parts are compatible with the Anycubic Mega Zero? (FNG here)" Tags="|fdm|anycubic-i3-mega|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18987" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-02-23T16:58:51.587" Score="1" ViewCount="68" Body="&lt;p&gt;I print a lot of stuff, and I was thinking I could get several magnetic bed-plates and when 1 print is done simply have my wife pull the plate off and stick on clean plate and start the print again.&#xA;But a friend of mine says that won't work. Because even if the plates are made by the same manufacturer you can't guarantee the bed will be level. 〰&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has anyone ever tried this? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="33268" LastActivityDate="2022-02-23T20:49:02.060" Title="Swapping magnitized bed plates?" Tags="|bed-leveling|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18989" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18987" CreationDate="2022-02-23T18:15:27.147" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes ,I was also facing the same problem couples of month ago and to solution I had buyed extra plates and &lt;strong&gt;It works perfectly&lt;/strong&gt; . Go for the extra beds and buy only from the same manufacturer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope your get your answer&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="33271" LastActivityDate="2022-02-23T18:15:27.147" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18993" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-02-23T19:58:59.553" Score="1" ViewCount="703" Body="&lt;p&gt;Have had my second Adventurer 3 now about 3 weeks.  Used all of the red filament that comes with it but when I go to load new FlashForge filament in the unit, I can't even get it to suck up the filament.  I just get a grinding sound like something is majorly wrong.  Any ideas please?  The filament will not even make it to the extruder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="33275" LastActivityDate="2024-02-29T13:26:43.357" Title="Adventurer 3 Not loading Filament/Grinding Sound" Tags="|flashforge-adventurer-3|flashforge|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18995" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18987" CreationDate="2022-02-23T20:49:02.060" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is a question of quality:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You better make sure that your plates are the same thickness evenly, and level very similarly. If that can be assured, they can be swapped easily.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In case you have a bed leveling sensor of some sort, you might include a whole bed-leveling cycle in front of every print and exchange between numerous beds, even of slightly variant thicknesses and with dings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastActivityDate="2022-02-23T20:49:02.060" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18996" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-02-23T23:31:22.110" Score="1" ViewCount="2450" Body="&lt;p&gt;I picked up a roll of Overture matte black PLA, and the surface of both the filament and the printed object &lt;em&gt;feel like&lt;/em&gt; paper. This made me wonder if it contains wood-based fibers like &amp;quot;wood PLA&amp;quot; does, and if so, whether it's abrasive and harmful to the nozzle. In the past I wouldn't have cared, but I'm using a CHT now and would like to avoid ruining it since it's expensive and I don't have spares sitting around.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2022-03-22T15:20:50.480" Title="Are &quot;matte PLA&quot; filaments abrasive?" Tags="|filament|nozzle|print-material|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18997" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18996" CreationDate="2022-02-23T23:41:59.820" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You may be experiencing the feel of paper, which is typically a matte surface, when feel testing the printed item, as both would be matte. A search for your focus found one purchaser of this product (via Amazon) has &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.amazon.com/ask/questions/asin/B089S2QDHD/2/ref=ask_dp_iaw_ql_hza?isAnswered=true#question-Tx2BUDAMGRBE1M0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;left an answer addressing this question&lt;/a&gt;. The answer is on the last page of Q/A and is accompanied by another answer suggesting the white filament is abrasive. One has to click &amp;quot;see 2 more answers&amp;quot; in order to locate the quoted answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;His reply was that he has printed 8 spools and found no deterioration of his nozzle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not any more than any other PLA. I've gone through 8 rolls of this PLA so&#xA;far with no noticeable degradation of my nozzle. D. DAmico · September&#xA;30, 2021&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My own suspicion is that the filament has a chemical additive to create the matte finish, rather than any particulate that might cause abrasion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastEditorUserId="854" LastEditDate="2022-02-24T20:32:10.153" LastActivityDate="2022-02-24T20:32:10.153" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18998" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3519" CreationDate="2022-02-24T08:37:40.763" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Any modern and decent drive gear (single or dual) is shaped round (concave) to better grip the filament.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/p8csV.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/p8csV.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some are flat, but only the cheapest and least performing ones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nwrob.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nwrob.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(from &lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/wiki/Drive-gear&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Reprap wiki&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The concave part designed for 1.75 mm filament will be too small to accept 3 mm filament, it will grip it so weakly that it will skip or skid very easily, especially given the increased grip required for 3 mm filament.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1.75 &amp;lt;-&amp;gt; 3 mm is a complete overhaul of anything related to the extrusion path. I did it so I know...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2338" LastActivityDate="2022-02-24T08:37:40.763" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18999" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-02-24T14:37:46.483" Score="2" ViewCount="371" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know what hotend the Anycubic Mega Zero uses? I've found info on upgrading to a different one but I'm thinking of just buying more nozzles for now and trying other options later. I'm not sure if I'm looking at the right things when I did a Google search. The hotend I'm looking at looks like an MK8 or even a Mini Swiss but I've read it's a J-Head? Am I missing something?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0BRxF.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Photo of the Anycubic Mega Zero hotend and extruder assembly&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0BRxF.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Photo of the Anycubic Mega Zero hotend and extruder assembly&quot; title=&quot;Photo of the Anycubic Mega Zero hotend and extruder assembly&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="33256" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2022-02-24T15:49:48.517" LastActivityDate="2024-03-20T01:01:10.253" Title="Stock hot end for Anycubic Mega Zero 1.0?" Tags="|anycubic-i3-mega|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19008" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15051" CreationDate="2022-02-24T17:20:30.243" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can fix it by changing &lt;strong&gt;Experimental&lt;/strong&gt; &amp;gt; &lt;strong&gt;Slicing Tolerance&lt;/strong&gt; &amp;gt; &lt;strong&gt;Exclusive&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/htVjk.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Cura screenshot of a model with the Slicing tolerance set to Middle&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/htVjk.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Cura screenshot of a model with the Slicing tolerance set to Middle&quot; title=&quot;Cura screenshot of a model with the Slicing tolerance set to Middle&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JGAoE.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Cura screenshot of a model with the Slicing tolerance set to Exclusive&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JGAoE.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Cura screenshot of a model with the Slicing tolerance set to Exclusive&quot; title=&quot;Cura screenshot of a model with the Slicing tolerance set to Exclusive&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="33293" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2022-02-24T22:19:09.850" LastActivityDate="2022-02-24T22:19:09.850" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19011" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-02-24T19:30:14.903" Score="0" ViewCount="338" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an MKS-SBASE V1.3 with integrated stepper motor drivers, but they don't have a physical way to change the current. I know there is a way to update the DRV8825 stepper current through Marlin, but I can't find it. Is it located in the advance configuration tab, or is a G-code I need to use?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="33296" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2022-02-24T22:28:24.317" LastActivityDate="2023-10-08T13:37:31.707" Title="MKS-SBASE V1.3 Marlin Stepper Motor Current" Tags="|stepper|motor|mks|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19013" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8605" CreationDate="2022-02-24T21:21:03.800" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've had this problem recurringly after marking this solved before, so I'm writing a new answer to revisit it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Based on the magnitude of the error being absolute rather than relative, and not being direction-dependent (i.e. not backlash), it can't be caused by the motion system. I further ruled out inward warping of the material by running tests with 100% infill. When, even at 100% infill, the diameter (thus volume of material) was too low, the only remaining explanation was underextrusion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Measuring the theoretical rotation distance of my extruder hob (now a different extruder from the original Ender 3 one), accounting for approximate tooth depth along with a precise hob diameter measurement, I got a value 15% lower than my configured value (E-steps 15% higher). I was already aware there was a discrepency here, just not the magnitude, and had purposefully kept it lower because of concerns that the full value would lead to parts that don't fit, due to imperfections in the walls, and especially that it might make the undersized holes problem worse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In reality, it's done the opposite. The best explanation I can come up with for fixing holes is that, for extrusion widths narrower than the nozzle (which a 15% under-extruded 0.4 mm line is, since it's only about 0.34 mm), the line does not stay centered well, but gets dragged with the direction of curvature. I think I still have some problems with holes being slightly undersized, but they're at least no worse, and seem slightly better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for positive cylinders, at 5 mm, printed diameter is nearly perfect, only under by about 40-50 µm, which is very acceptable and better than being over. Getting this result does depend on having a 100% solid part, though; as soon as infill comes into play, the cylinder is undersized again. Setting Cura's &amp;quot;Minimum Infill Area&amp;quot; high enough, or using enough walls to ensure the cylinder will be solid, can ensure 100% fill without printing the whole part at 100% infill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, I think I can conclusively say the main likely cause for this problem is underextrusion due to inaccurate E-steps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastEditorUserId="11157" LastEditDate="2022-02-26T20:01:01.360" LastActivityDate="2022-02-26T20:01:01.360" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19015" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19011" CreationDate="2022-02-24T22:50:05.187" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;From &lt;a href=&quot;http://smoothieware.org/troubleshooting#what-is-wrong-with-mks&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&amp;quot;WHAT IS WRONG WITH MKS ?&amp;quot;&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They use DRV8825 stepper drivers which are much more prone to loosing steps than Allegro or Trinamic drivers&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;DRV8825 driver current cannot be changed from firmware like e.g. Marlin, Trinamic drivers can, but they are not installed on the board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2022-02-24T22:50:05.187" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19019" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-02-25T20:07:28.183" Score="1" ViewCount="102" Body="&lt;p&gt;I printed this hook that must have 2.8 mm thickness of all walls:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HEMDi.png&quot; alt=&quot;3D model with dimensions&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But actual sizes differs:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TeqLG.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;3D printed model of a hook with measurements notated&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TeqLG.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;3D printed model of a hook with measurements notated&quot; title=&quot;3D printed model of a hook with measurements notated&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And I think this is a reason why the 3.0 mm wall has a gap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Printed with Monoprice Select Mini v2, nozzle 0.4 mm, PLA at 210 °C, PrusaSlicer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This issue isn't a casual fault, I printed the model several times and always have exactly the same issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What causes this inconsistency of sizes?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;UPDATE.&lt;/strong&gt; Thanks to Oscar's comment:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is a budget cantilever printer, try if orientation of the part makes a difference. E.g. rotate the object 45 or -45° on the build plate by re-slicing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Indeed, after rotating the model 45° I've get almost perfect print with almost perfect sizes of all walls.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maybe I'm wrong, but I believe this is because of non-ideality of printer's mechanics and lots of paths parallel to X or Y axis in the model. For example, when the printer prints a path parallel to X, then Y axis is fixed. Then, to print an adjacent path, Y moved a little (= extrusion width), and because of non-ideality of Y mechanics, there's some error here. By placing the model such way that minimizes the paths when X or Y axis is fixed, it eliminates such defects by averaging the error.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="33310" LastEditorUserId="33310" LastEditDate="2022-02-26T09:26:46.760" LastActivityDate="2022-02-26T09:26:46.760" Title="What causes inconsistency of sizes?" Tags="|print-quality|underextrusion|monoprice-select-mini|dimensional-accuracy|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19020" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16298" CreationDate="2022-02-25T23:45:43.340" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Make sure &lt;code&gt;RESTORE_LEVELING_AFTER_G28&lt;/code&gt; is uncommented in &lt;code&gt;configuration.h&lt;/code&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="33319" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2022-02-26T00:06:57.187" LastActivityDate="2022-02-26T00:06:57.187" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19021" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-02-26T01:32:34.343" Score="3" ViewCount="775" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I just got my first 3D printer the Ender 3 Pro. My nozzle is a bit too high (first image) and this is what happened after my first test print (second image).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I saved for a while to buy this and I’m really upset about this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/x1wNg.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Photo of Ender 3 Pro nozzle well above the build plate&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/x1wNg.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Photo of Ender 3 Pro nozzle well above the build plate&quot; title=&quot;Photo of Ender 3 Pro nozzle well above the build plate&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SRbKI.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Photo of a model printed halfway through with 'spaghetti'&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SRbKI.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Photo of a model printed halfway through with 'spaghetti'&quot; title=&quot;Photo of a model printed halfway through with 'spaghetti'&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Gt4h1.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Photo of a model printed halfway through with 'spaghetti' but from the side&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Gt4h1.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Photo of a model printed halfway through with 'spaghetti' but from the side&quot; title=&quot;Photo of a model printed halfway through with 'spaghetti' but from the side&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QrEJo.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QrEJo.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/D480L.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/D480L.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="33318" LastEditorUserId="33318" LastEditDate="2022-02-26T03:05:30.330" LastActivityDate="2022-03-15T15:20:40.243" Title="Nozzle not level and first print failed" Tags="|creality-ender-3|heated-bed|bed-leveling|nozzle|bed|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19022" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19021" CreationDate="2022-02-26T07:53:23.223" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your Z-endstop assembly is clearly too high. Referring to your own first foto you see that the switch on the Z-endstop mount is nearly touching the bottom of the X-Z mounting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GUPv9.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GUPv9.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You need to adjust the whole mount by loosening the 2 hex key screws and lower the assembly (move in the direction of the blue arrow):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fHmi1.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fHmi1.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;em&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://m.all3dp.com/2/ender-3-pro-z-offset/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Source: Larry Wood via All3DP&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Before lowering the Z-endstop mount first screw in all the levelling/tramming screws under the build plate/heated bef a little and position the nozzle a little above the build plate; when the mount is fastened you can move the build plate up a little and tram the complete bed surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.all3dp.com/2/ender-3-pro-z-offset/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;This All3D article&lt;/a&gt; describes the above in more detail, but the basics are covered above.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2022-03-15T15:20:40.243" LastActivityDate="2022-03-15T15:20:40.243" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19023" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-02-26T14:10:02.863" Score="2" ViewCount="478" Body="&lt;p&gt;On a PLA print where stringing has occurred, what is the best way to remove it during post processing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I simply cut it with a hobby knife and sand the surface or are the better techniques to use?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="29097" LastActivityDate="2022-03-13T06:53:38.867" Title="Post processing - How should I remove stringing for the smoothest surface?" Tags="|post-processing|stringing|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19024" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19023" CreationDate="2022-02-26T14:48:08.617" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Use a hobby knife with a chisel blade (straight edge perpendicular to handle, beveled on one side only).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Apply with beveled edge against workpiece. Raise the handle in small increments while stroking over the flaw until it is entirely removed.  This provides pretty good control to prevent gouging.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Avoid sanding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This method also works well for removing &amp;quot;ribs&amp;quot; caused by gaps in painter tape applied to print bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="33030" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2022-02-26T18:32:07.560" LastActivityDate="2022-02-26T18:32:07.560" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19025" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19026" CreationDate="2022-02-27T13:20:40.393" Score="3" ViewCount="1669" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd like to force Klipper to perform power on (using &lt;code&gt;M80&lt;/code&gt;) before homing. For this purpose I'm trying to override &lt;code&gt;G28&lt;/code&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;[gcode_macro G28]&#xA;rename_existing: G28_BASE&#xA;gcode:&#xA;  M80&#xA;  G28_BASE { rawparams }&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But for some reason this does not work, I'm getting the following error:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;G-Code macro rename of different types ('G28' vs 'G28_BASE')&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Isn't &lt;code&gt;G28&lt;/code&gt; overridable? Is there any other way to achieve the desired behavior?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5033" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2022-02-27T13:23:38.213" LastActivityDate="2022-03-15T11:09:53.967" Title="Klipper: power on before homing" Tags="|g-code|homing|power-supply|klipper|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19026" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19025" CreationDate="2022-02-27T16:04:21.240" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Because of the way parameters work differently (&lt;code&gt;Sx&lt;/code&gt; vs &lt;code&gt;NAME=x&lt;/code&gt;) for gcode style commands vs Klipper extended ones, the rename has to be to the &amp;quot;same type&amp;quot; of command. &lt;code&gt;G28_BASE&lt;/code&gt; does not fit the pattern to be considered a &amp;quot;gcode style&amp;quot; one. Use &lt;code&gt;G9028&lt;/code&gt; or &lt;code&gt;G28.1&lt;/code&gt; or something instead and it should work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2022-02-27T16:04:21.240" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19027" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-02-27T19:34:04.083" Score="3" ViewCount="992" Body="&lt;p&gt;Why do manufacturers such as Elegoo always recommend that you cure your resin 3D prints before removing the supports, while hobbyist such as Uncle Joey usually recommend that you soak your models in warm water and remove the supports while they are soft, prior to curing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a firm and quantifiable reason for this difference, or does it purely come down to personal preference?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="29097" LastActivityDate="2022-02-28T19:25:23.493" Title="Why do most manufacturers recommend curing resin models before removing supports?" Tags="|resin|post-processing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19028" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18959" CreationDate="2022-02-28T00:18:05.560" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This has happened to me before. As suggested in another answer by @HandyHowie I would try to increase the nozzle temp. PLA usually requires around 190-210 °C however I have found this usually varies from PLA type. I would try using something like 230 °C as this seems to work for me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another issue could be with your slicer. It could mean that the slicer isn't correctly slicing the model and this is a result of it. I would try using a different slicer as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, if this is a model developed by you or another person, there is a chance that it hasn't been exported correctly. If all else fails I would let the printer continue running.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From your image, it appears that it has only just started putting down the first layer. Sometimes my printer does this but goes and fills the holes in later on in the print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="32969" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2022-02-28T01:51:22.973" LastActivityDate="2022-02-28T01:51:22.973" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19029" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-02-28T18:39:29.340" Score="6" ViewCount="15845" Body="&lt;p&gt;Other than unrolling it and measuring it, is there a method for telling how much filament is left on a spool, for example calculating a length bases on weight or number of turns left on the spook?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it possible to extract the amount of filament used from the printer's firmware?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="29097" LastActivityDate="2022-04-29T03:53:11.967" Title="Is there a method for telling how much filament is left on a spool?" Tags="|print-material|" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19030" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19029" CreationDate="2022-02-28T18:44:05.203" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have an empty spool of the same brand, you could weigh the empty spool and the one you're trying to &amp;quot;measure&amp;quot; to get an approximate weight of the remaining filament.  Divide by the (presumably available from manufacturer) weight per meter to get a rough length in meters, if that's more useful to you than weight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28508" LastActivityDate="2022-02-28T18:44:05.203" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19031" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19027" CreationDate="2022-02-28T19:25:23.493" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is likely that Resin manufacturers recommend this for two reasons:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Uncured resin is not safe to handle, and support removal requires handling and manipulating the part. Curing the part removes this safety implication, making support removal less likely to expose you to uncured resin via mechanical means and/or accidentally breaking your gloves with the tools for support removal.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Uncured parts are still malleable and prone to squishing or deforming under force. Curing parts will make them firm and insusceptible to deformation while attempting to remove support material.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, Modern support patterns have become significantly easier to remove, Making it more of a personal preference rather than one with any merit behind it. Most recommend removing support material before curing as the 2nd point above can be taken advantage of to remove supports specifically, whilst keeping parts intact and accurate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6996" LastActivityDate="2022-02-28T19:25:23.493" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19032" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18999" CreationDate="2022-02-28T19:35:21.877" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The picture you have shared leads me to believe that it is an MK10 style hot end (Sometimes erroneously referred to as a Creality-style hot end)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;MK10 is identified by its 'Flattened' heat sink shape with screw holes through the heat sink for mounting, Along with the smooth, un-threaded geometry of the heat break entering into the heat sink.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;MK8 is similar, Consisting of the same Flattened, screw-mount heat sink design. However, the MK8 hot ends use a threaded heat break on &lt;em&gt;both&lt;/em&gt; sides, rather than only on the heater block side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6996" LastActivityDate="2022-02-28T19:35:21.877" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19033" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18927" CreationDate="2022-02-28T22:23:58.593" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think I found an answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the gantry is low (Z less than 100 mm high) the Xmax (right hand) side of the gantry has some play, if I move the gantry higher the rollers tighten up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I went through Luke Hatfield's X Gantry Rework (&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.th3dstudio.com/hc/guides/community-guides/3d-printer-help-guide-creality-others/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;PDF section 4.1.2&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4bFYH0X3qjk&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;video tutorial&lt;/a&gt;), making deviations for my own machine (the vertical extrusions are mounted to the side of the base on the Ender 3 Max rather than the top).&lt;br/&gt;&#xA;Tightening the rollers using the eccentric bolts and trying to get the gantry as level as possible seems to have improved the issue immensely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kVZcM.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kVZcM.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;XYZ Cube&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;The Z measurement for the 20 mm cube benchmark is now 19.7 mm (0.5 mm improvement)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hIQK8.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hIQK8.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;3D Benchy Boat with significantly less bumping&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;And the bumps on the boats are a lot less noticeable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While reassembling I had some difficulty lining up the screws on the top horizontal extrusion, which would suggest that the vertical extrusions are not aligned correctly as suggested in item 1 of this post discussing problems found on a stock Ender 3 Max:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The vertical extrusions are out, there appears to be a fault in the design and the extrusions are about 2.2mm closer together at the bottom than at the top.. what this means is if you move the carriage to half way up and adjust the wheels perfectly, when you move it to the top the outside wheels will be too tight, and when you move it to the bottom the inside wheels will be too tight!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.reddit.com/r/Ender3Max/comments/qa93m6/problems_i_have_found_with_stock_ender_3_max_and/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.reddit.com/r/Ender3Max/comments/qa93m6/problems_i_have_found_with_stock_ender_3_max_and/&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;br/&gt;The suggestion in that post is to install a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4721046&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;printed 2.2 mm shim&lt;/a&gt; between the vertical extrusion and the base. I'll give the shim fix a try at a later time, for now the quality of the prints is good enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="33124" LastActivityDate="2022-02-28T22:23:58.593" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19034" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19029" CreationDate="2022-02-28T23:48:07.453" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are down to one layer of filament, count the number of loops left on the spool, and multiply by the circumference of the spool to get the length. (&lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$ \pi \times diameter \times loops $&lt;/span&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This can work if you have more than one layer and know the core diameter and the outer diameter of the filament left, but there would be some integration and a lot of estimation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28397" LastEditorUserId="28397" LastEditDate="2022-03-01T02:02:48.153" LastActivityDate="2022-03-01T02:02:48.153" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19035" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19029" CreationDate="2022-03-01T02:02:13.933" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some filament vendors put a window to see the remaining spooled filament with a decal showing graduations to match how much is left based on the diameter visible. You could do the same as a printed (in the paper sense) insert you slip along the &lt;em&gt;inside&lt;/em&gt; of any spool between the filament and outer wall. You just need to compute the relationship between diameter and amount of filament based on the filament diameter and the number of turns per layer. Or you could just copy the design from a vendor who does this and figure it will be close enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2022-03-01T02:02:13.933" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19036" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18656" CreationDate="2022-03-01T02:11:23.567" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's highly unlikely this crash caused any physical or electrical damage to your printer. Printers are designed to be able to withstand an occasional crash as typically, no Axis Maximum endstops are installed. The 'atrocious' noise you describe hearing is the sound of the stepper motor having lost (or, in this case, repeatedly losing) steps. If you are worried, I would check that the X/Y Gantries are still in-tram and that the printer can still home itself without any problems.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;If this was a Z-Max runout (ie, printer tried to move too high), I would also check that the Z carriage is still on the Z axis Leadscrews before attempting to home, because if the Z carriage is not on one or both of the leadscrews, It is possible for the machine to engage them at different heights, throwing the X gantry out of tram or worse if only one leadscrew manages to re-engage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6996" LastActivityDate="2022-03-01T02:11:23.567" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19037" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-03-01T04:16:54.570" Score="0" ViewCount="173" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an Ender 3.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When my printer is laying down a flat layer and is going from left to right, it lays down a nearly perfect layer. However, when that same layer is going right to left, I get artifacts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These artifacts make a design which must tell me something but I can't think of what it could be. What would cause artifacts to appear only in one direction?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here you can see it is currently going from right to left at a diagonal. The layer below this one was flawless!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mXBgx.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Layer showing artifacts&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mXBgx.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Layer showing artifacts&quot; title=&quot;Layer showing artifacts&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="33345" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2022-03-01T04:55:29.123" LastActivityDate="2022-03-01T04:55:29.123" Title="Artifacts on layer in one direction" Tags="|creality-ender-3|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19038" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19029" CreationDate="2022-03-01T09:30:13.680" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you use klipper you can use &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/zellneralex/klipper_config/blob/master/printtime.cfg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this script&lt;/a&gt; (by zellneralex) to calculate the filament length used since the last manual reset. Obviously it works with a single spool, if you switch spools it doesn't work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to know how much filament is left in the spool, the exact formula based on inner radius of the spool &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$r_{int}$&lt;/span&gt; and outer radius of the spool when new &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$r_{ext}$&lt;/span&gt; and based on the current outer radius of the remaining filament &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$x$&lt;/span&gt; should be:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$$ 100 \left( \frac{x-r_{int}}{r_{ext}-r_{int}} \right)^2 $$&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can see that you get 100% when &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$x=r_{ext}$&lt;/span&gt; (spool is new) and 0% when &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$x=r_{int}$&lt;/span&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's a simple integration in &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$(x-x_0)\,dx$&lt;/span&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2338" LastActivityDate="2022-03-01T09:30:13.680" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19039" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-03-01T09:39:39.350" Score="0" ViewCount="693" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an Ender 3 3D printer, and I upgraded the extruder driver to a metal drive one. Since the gear that drives the filament was pressed onto the factory stepper motor I replaced the motor with a similar-sized NEMA 17 stepper I had laying around. I successfully completed some prints when I noticed the Z-axis was skipping steps and had lost most of its torque. I swapped the Y- and Z-axis motors around and sure enough the problem moved to the Y-axis. Figured I had blown something in the motor driver but wasn't sure what.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I ordered a 4.2.7 mainboard, swapped the boards over, and turned it on. Tried homing the machine and all axes worked other than the Y-axis. This time it's not skipping steps just not working at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm very confused and 2 mainboards deep and still unsure what the issue is. I did test the resistance across the phases of my new extruder motor and it measured about 2 ohms whereas the other motors were a bit higher. So I'm thinking maybe it's that motor but the extruder driver has been working fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've also noticed on both boards one of the diodes next to the blown driver has some white stuff on it. Not sure if they're blown or that's normal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any help will be greatly appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="33348" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2022-03-01T14:07:54.247" LastActivityDate="2022-03-01T14:07:54.247" Title="Blown two Ender 3 stepper drivers" Tags="|creality-ender-3|stepper-driver|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19040" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19029" CreationDate="2022-03-01T15:33:26.807" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Besides using the window on a spool that estimates the amount of filament left, I've used large calipers to measure the diameter of an empty spool and the diameter of the filament left on the spool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15075" LastActivityDate="2022-03-01T15:33:26.807" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19041" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-03-01T18:37:28.390" Score="0" ViewCount="915" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an Artillery Sidewinder X1 that had a stripped-out screw. I couldn't find a single screw anywhere and opted to replace the entire hot end, screws, fans, and everything. Should have been pretty easy, and was - 3 screws and a ribbon cable. Now when I turn on the printer I get the &amp;quot;no printer attached error&amp;quot; on the TFT display.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've searched Google and can find no help there.&#xA;Any ideas would be gratefully accepted!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Firmware: RAWR 28.x&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Board: TFT version Artillery (stock)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="33352" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2022-03-02T22:15:24.527" LastActivityDate="2022-03-02T22:15:24.527" Title="Getting a &quot;no printer attached&quot; error after hotend swap out" Tags="|troubleshooting|artillery-sidewinder-x1|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19042" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-03-03T02:43:30.967" Score="2" ViewCount="156" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm using an Elegoo Mars 3 printer.&#xA;For some reason, all of my prints are now getting these deep ridges. each layer I can hear it peel away from the vat before it lowers again for the next layer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've tried various exposure times as well as different approaches to supports.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qvKkZ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Resin 3D printed model with deep ridges&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qvKkZ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Resin 3D printed model with deep ridges&quot; title=&quot;Resin 3D printed model with deep ridges&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="33373" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2022-03-04T10:59:35.340" LastActivityDate="2022-11-29T14:03:00.330" Title="Deep ridges in all of my prints" Tags="|3d-models|3d-design|resin|elegoo-mars|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19043" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19029" CreationDate="2022-03-03T04:48:40.370" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I made an Excel spreadsheet that calculates this based on the spool dimensions. You can download it &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brownsbrain.com/Length%20on%20Spool%20Public.xlsx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are products available that will keep track of the length of spools once you give it a starting length. The starting length could come from the spreadsheet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="33375" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2022-03-03T07:06:31.513" LastActivityDate="2022-03-03T07:06:31.513" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19044" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19046" CreationDate="2022-03-03T08:59:38.807" Score="0" ViewCount="1931" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gXrGX.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gXrGX.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pXrMZ.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pXrMZ.png&quot; alt=&quot;Errored surfaces.&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The left part of the first picture is giving an inverted circle when lying flat, but the right part of the first picture is how it should be. Same STL for both slice orientations. I tried toggling union overlapping volumes with no luck. I tried to invert face normals with Blender with no luck either.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This gives the error: The highlighted areas indicate either missing or extraneous surfaces. Fix your model and open it again into Cura.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://sketchfab.com/3d-models/face-plate-v3-d24dc577c0e9420cb683f688405c080a&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Here&lt;/a&gt; is a link to the model, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.dropbox.com/s/lukwu7tq1clybgy/FacePlate%20V3.stl?dl=0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this is another link&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have tried&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;manually repairing faces with Blender,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;repairing the model with Autocad Meshmixer&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;both without success.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="33379" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2022-03-03T11:59:40.307" LastActivityDate="2022-03-04T09:09:38.670" Title="Little help on this Cura slicing or model error?" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|3d-models|3d-design|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19045" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18656" CreationDate="2022-03-03T15:37:19.080" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The noise you heard was likely caused by the extruder keeping turning, resulting in the belt stretching enough to jump a tooth or more. I guess it was like &amp;quot;TRRRRR&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the belt tension is properly set (not too tight), no damage can be caused. In fact, the belt should be loose enough so that such a mistake won't cause damages.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could also reduce the current to the stepper motors in the future, to reduce even further the risk of damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2338" LastActivityDate="2022-03-03T15:37:19.080" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19046" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19044" CreationDate="2022-03-03T23:32:12.460" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've discovered via Meshmixer that there are duplicate cylinders for the counterbores. I selected &amp;quot;separate shells&amp;quot; which generated two sets of cylinders in the Objects Browser as well as the main body. Selecting each flawed entry in the browser left behind the main body, which is manifold and passes the Analysis/Inspector test sequence.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can have the repaired file from my &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.dropbox.com/s/ys6jzpnfsjbbn3v/FacePlate%20V3r.stl?dl=0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Dropbox, public folder&lt;/a&gt;, or you can perform the process on your own. If you select the former, please let me know when it's retrieved, as I endeavor to keep my space in the free category on Dropbox.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastEditorUserId="854" LastEditDate="2022-03-04T09:09:38.670" LastActivityDate="2022-03-04T09:09:38.670" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19047" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19042" CreationDate="2022-03-04T11:07:25.560" Score="1" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Open Resins degrade&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If photopolymer resin is sitting open a long time, its curing behavior can degrade. One of the effects of degrading resin is, that it might not harden to the same point in the same time, requiring either longer exposure or not curing to hardness at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This can lead to the prints staying somewhat flexible when they get peeled off the sheet, and when they get pushed back into the print position, that can lead to the print having a misalignment in one direction. As the next layer is added, peeled and repositioned, this might very well result in the &amp;quot;banding&amp;quot; pattern in layers all orthogonal to Z.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That this is a systemical error that happens everywhere in the vat you can notice at the support structure: it shows the same banding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Solutions?&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might want to toss that resin, or at least add some virgin resin to it, so it can get refreshened.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a general rule of thumb, it is not advisable to leave resin and vats out in the light for any prolonged time and if you don't print for several days, it is best practice to drain the Vats and store the resin in light-tight bottles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastActivityDate="2022-03-04T11:07:25.560" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19048" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-03-04T12:35:11.823" Score="2" ViewCount="1276" Body="&lt;p&gt;OK here's some background of the problem:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Symptoms:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;All retracts on the extruder produce a screeching noise. The extruder extrudes normally all other times.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Any fast move on the Z-axis also produces a screeching noise and the Z-axis will move normally at all other times.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;This appears to happen regardless of any printing state whether the heaters are on or not it will still occur it even happens during the ABL process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Specifications of the printer:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mainboard: MKS Gen L V2&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Drivers: TMC2209 UART&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Stepper motors: Stepperonline 17HS15-1504S 1.8 deg 1.5A&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pulleys: GT2 16T&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Leadscrew: 2 mm pitch T8&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hotend: E3D V6&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;OK so basically I performed an upgrade of my stepper drivers as well as the leadscrew and pulleys on my 3D printer which was originally a Tevo tornado and at the start of every print I would experience a loud screeching noise coming from the Z-axis and I originally identified it to be a single line in my G-code that would only trigger the screech if it was preceded by another line and by commenting out the first line I was able to start printing&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lines in question:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;G1 X3 Y1 Z15 F9000 ; Move safe Z height to shear strings&#xA;G0 X1 Y1 Z0.2 F9000 ; Move in 1mm from edge and up [z] 0.2mm&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, while I was able to start printing, I soon found out that the extruder was doing the same thing with every retract it would create a loud screech and the filament wouldn't be retracted this caused heavy stringing as well as poor layer adhesion resulting in prints failing. I figured the problem was with the version of Marlin I was using so I attempted to use the latest bug fix. However, I was still experiencing the same problems. I attempted to see if the stepper current was the problem and after identifying that the stepper current was not the cause of the problem, I figured I needed to replace the stepper motors and after replacing the stepper motors the problem still remained. I figured the problem must be with Marlin so I attempted to use Klipper. However, I am still experiencing the same and now I can't even complete a mesh bed leveling as the movements that Klipper uses are triggering the loud screeching and causing the steppers to freeze up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am unsure as to what could be causing this as I think I've checked everything that could be causing it so I'm not quite sure how to proceed I've also made a video that should show the problem in action. So I guess I'm wondering what's my next troubleshooting step?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/v_vXF8f9GdQ?start=0&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have tried changing the drivers back to TMC2208s there have been no changes on both Klipper and Marlin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried switching to an MKS Gen L V2.1 in case it was a mainboard problem, still experiencing problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only other thing I think I can try is running the TMC2209s in standalone mode&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="33395" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2023-11-28T21:57:24.210" LastActivityDate="2023-12-28T22:02:35.300" Title="Stepper motors on the extruder and Z-axis seem to freeze up during any fast movements" Tags="|troubleshooting|extruder|z-axis|stepper-driver|stepper|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19049" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19048" CreationDate="2022-03-04T18:35:05.817" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I haven't had time to view the video, but in general, the symptom you're seeing means you're trying to drive the stepper above the max RPM it can handle. Roughly speakling, coils (in the motor) resist a change in current, and past a certain point, a given voltage is insufficient to change the coil currents to perform a step before it's time for the next step. Typical steppers in cheap 3D printers max out around 1500-2000 RPM and lose power (meaning they'll likely work under no load) a little bit before that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To figure out your motor RPM, multiply the axis speed (in mm/s) by steps per mm (full steps, not microsteps, so divide by number of microsteps per step) to get steps/s, then convert to rotations/min by multiplying by 60 and dividing by 200 (steps per rotation for a 1.8° stepper).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastEditorUserId="11157" LastEditDate="2022-03-05T12:40:26.260" LastActivityDate="2022-03-05T12:40:26.260" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19051" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-03-05T16:16:17.760" Score="-1" ViewCount="2230" Body="&lt;p&gt;I purchased a new 4.2.7 (256k) board for my Ender 5 Pro and added the CR Touch. I got everything connected and flashed the board with the &amp;quot;Ender-5 Pro- Marlin2.0.1 - V1.1.1 - ALT - TMC2235.bin&amp;quot; firmware from the creality.com/download &amp;gt; Accessory Firmware &amp;gt; CR Touch Firmware for 32-bit Motherboard &amp;gt; Ender-5 Pro.zip&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Problem:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When told to Auto Home the Z-axis drops 5 mm then checks X-axis &amp;amp; Y-axis endstops = OK&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But then the Z-axis drops another 3 mm and the CR Touch deploys &amp;gt; Retracts &amp;gt; deploys &amp;gt; Retracts and Faults out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The instructions say to move the Z-axis to get the offset but it will only go down while the CR Touch is faulted (Stopped)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've checked all wiring made sure the Z-axis endstop was disconnected. No help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thinking it was a board issue I wanted to check the normal, no CR Touch, functionality, so I flashed the Marlin2.0.1 V1.0.1 original versionTMC2225 &amp;quot;Marlin2.0.1 - V1.0.1 - Endstop - TMC2225.bin&amp;quot; firmware onto the board, and reconnected the Z-axis endstop. The printer worked like normal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not wanting to fail, I decided to try another firmware, so I decided to use TH3D_Unified2_CrealityV4X_256K. I went through and set up everything using &lt;code&gt;CUSTOM_PROBE&lt;/code&gt; settings. And wouldn't you know it... SAME Results as with the Creality &amp;quot;Ender-5 Pro- Marlin2.0.1 - V1.1.1 - ALT - TMC2235.bin&amp;quot; firmware.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bed drops 5 mm at the start of Auto Home then drops another 3 mm after centering to deploy the CR Touch. The CR Touch deploys &amp;gt; Retracts &amp;gt; deploys &amp;gt; Retracts then Faults out. At no point does the bed ever try to go up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only other thing I can think of is that the CR Touch isn't working right. I thought it was supposed to deploy then the bed was to come up to it to detect it. Could the wiring &amp;quot;harness&amp;quot; for the CR Touch be incorrectly wired? (Wiring below)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can someone help me with this one?&#xA;Do I have a bad Board?&#xA;Do I have a bad CR Touch?&#xA;Or am I just not getting a setting right somewhere?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr/&gt;&#xA;CR Touch Wiring (Current) 5pin from factory --- Connectors can only be put in one way&#xA;&lt;p&gt;@ Creality 4.2.7 Board --- From Left to Right&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;G = White | V = Black | IN = Yellow | G = Red | Out = Blue&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;@ Creality CR Touch --- From Left to Right with Creality logo facing you&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Blue | Red | Yellow | Black | White&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="33406" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2022-03-05T16:31:04.320" LastActivityDate="2024-01-07T09:17:13.883" Title="CR Touch firmware NO Z-axis home Ender 5 Pro 4.2.7" Tags="|marlin|bed-leveling|firmware|creality-ender-5|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19052" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-03-05T18:08:04.563" Score="0" ViewCount="108" Body="&lt;p&gt;I got a Flyingbear Ghost 4 and using Cura. It is doing fine until I have to print spheric things. I'm using a high density material that needs to be at 210 °C and slower print speed. I also built a top and a door for my printer so it's partly enclosed at 90 %&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An easy example of what I got is a sphere object.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The lower half is messy with uneven surface, lot of visible strings marks at firsts layers. While upper part is just perfect. I tried to to work around it multiple times but can't find any worthy info on internet. Tried to slowing down the printing speed by max 50 %, thicker shell, nothing seems to work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here a Lapras I did to my son to show you.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AKqnP.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AKqnP.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Settings:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fan_Speed : 100 % (it's off for the first layer)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;LayerHeight : 0.1 mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bed_Temperature : 60 °C&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Nozzle_Temperature : 210 °C&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Nozzle_size : 0.4 mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Shell_Thickness : 1.6 mm (so 4 passes)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Printing_speed : 45 mm/sec (max moving speed for this printer is 150 mm/sec,&#xA;default printing speed is 60 mm/sec)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Support_type : Everywhere&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Support_Min_Angle : 59°&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can you help me with this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18678" LastEditorUserId="18678" LastEditDate="2022-03-10T01:17:52.360" LastActivityDate="2022-03-10T01:17:52.360" Title="Bottom part of spherical objects print problematic" Tags="|print-quality|flyingbear-ghost-4|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19053" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-03-06T11:49:21.213" Score="2" ViewCount="495" Body="&lt;p&gt;As the printer ages, the constant motion of the print head wears out the conductors inside the cable. Creating all sorts of fun debugging scenarios.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there such a thing as a bundled cable, with all the necessary wires, for the stepper motor (in the case of direct drives), hot end, thermistor, etc... and when one of the conductors wear out just replace the whole bundle?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="33417" LastActivityDate="2022-03-08T19:30:10.903" Title="Print Head Cable, does such a thing exist?" Tags="|maintenance|wire-type|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19055" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-03-06T15:12:54.907" Score="0" ViewCount="565" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've used Chitubox to add supports to a number of models and saved them as .CTB files ready for printing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I want to print several of these models at the same time, is it possible to combine them into a single file and to assign each one a different location on the built plate?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="29097" LastActivityDate="2022-04-05T23:04:15.443" Title="Can I combine several &quot;.CTB&quot; files together into a single file?" Tags="|chitu|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19056" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19053" CreationDate="2022-03-06T16:30:00.503" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Have you thought of using a ribbon cable?  I have/ have had similar issues with a large print area CoreXY.  I'm not sure if the ribbon cable can handle the motor current or heater current but pairing up wires may help. One other issue you may have is electrical interference if you have bed leveling that uses a servo command.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm going to try a ribbon cable on my next print head rewire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="33422" LastEditorUserId="33422" LastEditDate="2022-03-07T22:27:02.413" LastActivityDate="2022-03-07T22:27:02.413" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19057" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23162" CreationDate="2022-03-06T17:44:24.183" Score="2" ViewCount="116" Body="&lt;p&gt;On the last couple of polycarbonate prints with my Prusa, one or more layers have been completely skipped (i.e. no material extruded). The rest of the print is fine save some minor warping. I'm printing in an enclosure that gets up to ~60 °C with the power supply outside the enclosure. I'm also printing out of a dry box with a fairly long bowden tube. I suspect it has something to do with overheating because this doesn't happen when I print without an enclosure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I cracked the print in half just to take a look in between the layers.&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gg8H8.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gg8H8.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Side view&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eP3C1.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eP3C1.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Bottom piece&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fAmPg.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fAmPg.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Top piece&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28896" LastActivityDate="2024-03-20T04:00:27.647" Title="Prusa i3MK3S+ layer skip with polycarbonate (overheating?)" Tags="|prusa-i3|adhesion|underextrusion|filament-jam|polycarbonate|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19058" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19053" CreationDate="2022-03-06T20:52:22.620" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The many manufacturers create the printer configuration in nearly as many ways as there are models of printers. I've seen flat flexible cables used in a manner akin to cable chains, which allows the ribbon to roll back on itself in the return movement. Minimal flexing at the end connectors and an acceptable radius on the bend. My BCN3D Sigma R16 has a ribbon cable from a fixed location out to the head, which travels in both x and y direction preventing a roll-back/cable chain type of configuration but also maximizes the radius of the bend.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are considering a DIY printer build, your options are open, but if you have an existing unnamed printer, your modification has to remain within the constraints of the manufacturer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastActivityDate="2022-03-06T20:52:22.620" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19059" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19055" CreationDate="2022-03-06T21:04:16.927" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The files generated by a resin printer slicer contain exposure reference information as well as an image for each layer to be printed. One could consider to develop a reverse-engineering bit of code to read all of the image layers, overlaying the common z-height with the others to be printed and hope that none of them create overlaps that would destroy the models being printed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One can, for example, configure PrusaSlicer to create a print file, change the name to *.ZIP and extract the multiple *.PNG files within. Consider how difficult it would be to composite these individual PNG files when combining them with another file or multiple files.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The web site &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprintknowledge.com/how-resin-3d-printers-work-a-guide-for-beginners/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;3dprintknowledge&lt;/a&gt; contains a beginner's reference with a useful image:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YzLev.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YzLev.png&quot; alt=&quot;layer image from resin printer slicer&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastActivityDate="2022-03-06T21:04:16.927" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19060" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19057" CreationDate="2022-03-06T21:06:50.667" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are experiencing overheating, consider to provide input/output airflow to the enclosure for the controller board and for the power supply. I've seen elsewhere on the 'net (forgotten locations) of Prusa printers with DIY extensions to the cables that are used in those components, allowing them to be located outside, with ambient airflow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastActivityDate="2022-03-06T21:06:50.667" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19061" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12087" CreationDate="2022-03-07T06:29:59.297" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It has been 25 or 30 years since I did my first closed-loop system. I was driving a syringe pump from a printer port on a MS-Dos PC that ran hot had to disable the timer interrupts to make the deadlines amount moving the plunger, updating the floppy drive reading and computing the new position, getting the time, and fixing up the timer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found moving to a goal with a tolerance of 1 or 2 stepper motor steps was on the money over 95% of the time and I made deadlines over 90% of the time. Any error was made up in the next move. I used the same scheme on an 8 x 32 foot structured light scanning table.  I am pretty sure I saw memory errors from cosmic rays on this one. It took 500 hours to scan that with no parity check on the RAM. It had some wooden structures that changed size over time. I could track the movement with the error files from the shaft encoders.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the x y scanning table, the wait time was7 seconds after a move before the camera stopped asking enough to capture an image. We elected to fix up the position in software and accumulate the errors in the next move in order to be able to finish the project.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="29345" LastActivityDate="2022-03-07T06:29:59.297" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19062" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19053" CreationDate="2022-03-07T09:08:16.820" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;People have used parallel port cables (DB25) for a while. They are cheap enough and have enough pins for most uses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6LaNG.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6LaNG.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously you will need to use multiple pins for the power hungry devices (heater, stepper motor). Parallel cables often use 28 AWG (0.08 mm^2) wires, which carry up to 1.5 A @ 30 °C temperature rise over ambient. It's quite a lot, so better stick to about 0.8 A/wire, which means one pin or better two are enough for each wire of the stepper motor. A 12 V/50 W heater draws 4.2 A and will likely need 5 pins per each wire, to be safe while a 24 V/50 W heater could work with two.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See some ratings &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.powerstream.com/Wire_Size.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also use Ethernet cables, they are even cheaper and more widely available, but each cable has only 8 of them. The advantage is that they are usually 23-24 AWG (0.21-0.26 mm^2), unless you look for slim or flat cables, 30-32 AWG, so the heater will need fewer wires. However, they are all twisted pairs therefore you may be forced to use more wires than you need: for example, you may have an accelerometer which uses four data wires: TX, RX, clock, enable. You cannot twist RX and TX to avoid interference, and also clock should not be twisted with either RX or TX. You may need to be creative (TX/GND, RX/VCC, clocl/enable), but in general it's uncommon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2338" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2022-03-08T18:33:12.007" LastActivityDate="2022-03-08T18:33:12.007" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19063" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-03-07T13:04:30.940" Score="1" ViewCount="245" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 12 V/30 A power supply. Will a RAMPS 1.4 shield burn if I use that power supply with it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="33092" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2022-03-08T07:12:07.787" LastActivityDate="2022-03-08T07:19:59.480" Title="Can I connect a PSU with a higher current rating than RAMPS 1.4 can handle?" Tags="|diy-3d-printer|ramps-1.4|arduino-mega-2650|power-supply|ramps|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19064" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19063" CreationDate="2022-03-07T15:31:41.197" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, it won't burn if you use a power supply that put out 12 Volts and tolerates up to 30 Amps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12857" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2022-03-07T15:36:41.863" LastActivityDate="2022-03-07T15:36:41.863" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19065" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19063" CreationDate="2022-03-07T15:50:55.190" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes you can connect that PSU to the RAMPS 1.4 shield, and no, it will not burn the shield under normal operation (too much and/or too high current draining peripherals attached or shorting of circuits).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is not the PSU that determines how much current is being drawn from the PSU, it is the peripherals that determine this. The RAMPS 1.4 shield has (poly) fuses for 11 A and 5 A, so the maximum you can draw through the board is 16 A. You cannot draw more than 11 A for the heated bed, and 5 A for the hot end heater and the steppers combined. If your heated bed uses over 11 A or the rest over 5 A, the fuses will burn through cutting the circuit. These fuses are meant to protect your board from draining too much current.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Connecting a PSU with a higher current specification is perfectly fine as long as you do not exceed the board specifications with your peripherals.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In case your heated bed (which takes the majority of the power) requires over 11 A (which requires thick cables!), you need to use an &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/5554/mosfet-as-a-safety-feature&quot;&gt;external MOSFET&lt;/a&gt;; this doesn't add a safety, it merely allows to use more current from your PSU to power the high demanding peripherals.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2022-03-08T07:19:59.480" LastActivityDate="2022-03-08T07:19:59.480" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19066" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-03-07T16:26:28.933" Score="1" ViewCount="163" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have 12 V/30 A PSU. I have also installed the firmware onto the Arduino Mega2560. But the problem is that the display on the LCD keeps turning on and off automatically (it's stuck on the Marlin logo because it keeps restarting).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I hear the PSU fan, it also turns on and off automatically. I suspect that there is something wrong with my PSU because when I supply power directly using the Arduino Mega's port, the display didn't repeatedly restart automatically.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I connect an LED to the PSU, it blinks. It blinks and continue goes normal. It keeps repeating like that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="33092" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2022-03-08T12:55:51.187" LastActivityDate="2022-04-07T13:03:05.253" Title="Why is my PSU turning on and off automatically?" Tags="|marlin|troubleshooting|ramps-1.4|arduino-mega-2650|power-supply|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19067" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19063" CreationDate="2022-03-07T17:28:11.883" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Voltage and current behave differently and it is important to remember two essential points:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;PSU voltage specifications &lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;should never be exceeded&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt;, else the circuit will (most likely) be damaged, and;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;PSU current specifications &lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;can be exceeded&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt;, without any risk to the circuit&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, if your circuit requires 12 V and 3 A, then the PSU must supply a maximum of 12 V, but current can be 5 A, 10 A or whatever.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It may help to think of it this way:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Voltage will force its way into a circuit, and if you exceed the specified requirement of that circuit, then the circuit will be damaged, for sure;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Current passively sits there and is is only taken by the circuit as it is required - if your power supply can provide 1000 A, but the circuit only needs 11 A, then the circuit will only take 11 A. The remaining 989 A will be ignored.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Note&lt;/strong&gt;: There is one caveat, where the mismatching is reversed: If a PSU can only supply 5A, but the circuit requires 10 A, then the PSU &lt;em&gt;may&lt;/em&gt; be damaged as the circuit attempts to draw more current than the PSU can provide.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;The water analogy&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can think of electricity as similar to water in a water tank, and a tap as being the outlet/socket/circuit:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The higher the water tank is above the tap, the higher the water pressure - &lt;strong&gt;this water pressure is analogous to voltage&lt;/strong&gt;. If the water pressure is excessively high, then the tap could fail, in the same way that a circuit will blow,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The larger the tank, the more water there is that can be provided - &lt;strong&gt;This capacity of the tank is analogous to the current&lt;/strong&gt;. You don't have to use, or drink, all of the water in the tank, but (often) it's nice to have an excess available, even though it might be wasteful or not particularly cost effective.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Footnote&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; The only major downside to having an over rated PSU with respect to current, is that should the circuit that the PSU is supplying have a issue, such as a short circuit, then a lot more current will be drawn, than if the PSU wasn't so over rated. This could be dangerous, if, for example, you are touching part of that circuit. This is why the current rating of a PSU should closely match the current requirement of the circuit which the PSU is supplying.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other considerations for using an over rated PSU could (arguably) include a longer life or increased reliability. This would be due to less stress being placed upon the PSU, if the current rating of the PSU is, for example 25 - 50 % greater than the current requirement of the circuit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4762" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2022-03-07T17:37:08.940" LastActivityDate="2022-03-07T17:37:08.940" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19069" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19074" CreationDate="2022-03-07T22:39:27.283" Score="1" ViewCount="65" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does 3D printed Alumide outgas or is it inert? I.e. If I printed a box with it and stored paper in that box for 100 years would the paper become damaged by out gassing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I noticed that &lt;a href=&quot;https://data.nasa.gov/Applied-Science/Outgassing-Db/r588-f7pr&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;NASA has a list of materials that out gas&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I'm not sure exactly what polymers are in 3D printed Alumide...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="33437" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2022-03-08T17:38:33.813" LastActivityDate="2022-03-08T18:37:02.053" Title="Does 3D printed Alumide out gas after printing?" Tags="|print-material|safety|alumide|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19070" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19066" CreationDate="2022-03-08T12:47:08.070" Score="3" Body="&lt;h3&gt;Simple answer&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the PSU continuously restarts, even when not under load, i.e. nothing is connected to it, then it is clearly faulty.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you then connect this faulty PSU to a 3D printer then the printer will not work either.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The long and short of it is: The PSU is faulty; buy a replacement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Given your previous questions, and apparent high current requirement (heatbed, etc), you may have damaged the PSU by attempting to draw too much current. &lt;strong&gt;If so, then any similar spec'd replacement PSU will probably suffer a similar fate as this one.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Guesswork answer&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As to why it is restarting could be down to a number of factors. The most common failings of LED PSUs (assuming that is indeed what it is) is one (or both) are the power FETs (usually there are two of them), which are bolted to the side/rear of the case. This fix is to simply replace them, like for like.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The FETs are by no means the only possible issue - there could be a faulty/blown capacitor, or any other of the components. The only way to tell for sure would be to open the case of the PSU and visually inspect the PCB for burn marks, and maybe thereafter probing it with a DMM.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;However, if you don't know what you are doing, then don't attempt this as as mistakes could well be dangerous and/or fatal.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;IMHO, cheap unbranded LED PSUs have a notoriously bad reliability. You will probably find that you have better luck using a branded ATX PSU for a PC instead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4762" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2022-03-08T12:59:30.180" LastActivityDate="2022-03-08T12:59:30.180" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19071" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-03-08T14:07:21.527" Score="1" ViewCount="775" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can I plug Arduino Mega USB input (to supply power) and RAMPS 1.4 power input at the same time?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is because when I plug the PSU into the RAMPS 1.4 alone, the LCD keeps restarting and it just gets stuck at the Marlin logo but if I plug the USB to the Arduino Mega alone, it works perfectly fine except the motor won't move (maybe not enough power) or maybe there is any other suggestions?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="33092" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2022-03-09T06:45:59.743" LastActivityDate="2022-03-09T06:45:59.743" Title="Can I plug in Arduino Mega USB input (to supply power) and RAMPS 1.4 power input at the same time?" Tags="|diy-3d-printer|ramps-1.4|power-supply|ramps|arduino|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19072" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19073" CreationDate="2022-03-08T17:28:29.633" Score="1" ViewCount="46" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know what polymers are used in 3D printed Alumide? I know it has Al and nylon, but does it have anything else?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;NASA has a database of materials that out gas and I'd like to see if Alumide out gasses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="33437" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2022-03-08T17:38:40.797" LastActivityDate="2022-03-08T18:00:37.523" Title="What polymers are used in 3D printed Alumide?" Tags="|print-material|alumide|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19073" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19072" CreationDate="2022-03-08T17:45:59.463" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Alumide is a registered trademark. It's source words are &lt;em&gt;Alu&lt;/em&gt;munium and Polya&lt;em&gt;mide&lt;/em&gt;. The first materials known under this name were sold in 2007.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to my materials provider, the ratio is but for tiny tollerances exactly 50% Polyamide-12 dust that is enriched with 50% aluminium particles and the material is used without special alterations to the machine in a typical nylon Selective Laser Sintering machine using a modified profile for PA12. Its &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.shapeways.com/rrstatic/material_docs/msds-alumide.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;MSDS&lt;/a&gt; only lists those two components, so there is nothing but those in it usually.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a result, the polymer binder is only &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nylon_12&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Polyamide 12&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2022-03-08T18:00:37.523" LastActivityDate="2022-03-08T18:00:37.523" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19074" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19069" CreationDate="2022-03-08T18:11:35.710" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Alumide is, as &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/q/19072/8884&quot;&gt;this question explains&lt;/a&gt; made up entirely of Aluminium Grit and Polyamide 12 dust.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Database contains one entry for Polyamide 12 (by &lt;a href=&quot;https://data.nasa.gov/d/r588-f7pr/visualization&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;filtering for it here&lt;/a&gt;):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IlUt4.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IlUt4.png&quot; alt=&quot;Polyamide 12 - ID GSFC4067 - MFR HUL - TML 0.76 - Category 0 - CVCM 0.02 - Space Code 1 - WVR N/A - Material Usage MOLD CPND - Cure N/A&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some other items of similar material (Nylon 6 &amp;amp; Nylon 12) are also in the database:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dRQ2P.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dRQ2P.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a result of the material being essentially aluminium and PA12, I would take the PA12 values for an estimation until the material was tested properly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2022-03-08T18:37:02.053" LastActivityDate="2022-03-08T18:37:02.053" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19075" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19053" CreationDate="2022-03-08T19:30:10.903" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You may be able to find replacement wiring harnesses from a good manufacturer that supplies replacement parts for its printers, or possibly a 3rd party replacement for very popular printers, but there is no standard for length, number and types of conductors, gauge of wire, and types of connectors for the ends.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For connectors, many 3D printers have settled on “JST” headers on the ends. There are several types and pitches that aren’t compatible so identification is important when finding a replacement. Here is a good resource on identifying the connector: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mattmillman.com/info/crimpconnectors/common-jst-connector-types/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.mattmillman.com/info/crimpconnectors/common-jst-connector-types/&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;An alternative to finding the correct pre assembled wiring harness (not out of the question with the explosion of 3D printers and CNC machines) is salvaging the original plastic header and crimping new connectors on new wires. This sadly requires a special crimping tool, but it is a worthwhile purchase if you do electronics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the 3D printer uses a ribbon cable, it isn’t terribly hard to replace those, if they use the rectangular IDC connectors at the ends. You can cut the cable to length and punch down the connector in a vise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whatever the connector or type of cable, for the wire, the finer the strands of copper the better, as far as resisting breakage from constant movement. One good source of salvaged fine stranded wire is the cabling in wall warts (so long as 2 conductor works for you, say for a heat bed).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As others have noted, the bend radius of the wire has a lot to do with its longevity. Sharp kinks will do the harness in, especially at the printhead end. Strain relief is key, as is not nicking the wire where it is stripped. Most cables, in general electronics, seem to break at the ends.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In shopping for a printer, it’d be good to check the cabling doesn’t pull directly on the connectors when it moves, doesn’t kink it, especially if it has DIY mods done to the print head. For printers you already own, check the strain relief. Other than that, wait for it to break, rather than ripping it out just because you’re worried it may break. It isn’t hard to diagnose with the continuity tester on a multi-meter. In a repair you can always leave the old broken wires in there and add a couple new ones. Pay attention to wire gauge, as others have pointed out- fans, thermistors, other sensors can be small, hotends and steppers larger, heatbed largest.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27077" LastActivityDate="2022-03-08T19:30:10.903" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19076" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11145" CreationDate="2022-03-08T19:52:56.420" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have the same problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think it is not a bootloader problem because the screen is all blue but machine can work with serial connexion. I tried to use the new Jakub's file but it doesn't work either.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found new type of screen for EX8 on Marlin V2 called &amp;quot;WYH_L12864_LCD&amp;quot; - Has anyone tried this solution?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="33445" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2022-03-08T23:18:58.833" LastActivityDate="2022-03-08T23:18:58.833" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19077" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19071" CreationDate="2022-03-09T06:21:34.600" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes you can, that is the purpose of diode &lt;code&gt;D1&lt;/code&gt; on the RAMPS board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It should be noted that if the RAMPS 1.4 does not have diode &lt;code&gt;D1&lt;/code&gt; then the Mega2560 will/can not be powered via the RAMPS board and it is necessary to power the Mega2560 separately, for example via the USB.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See &lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/wiki/RAMPS_1.4#Power_for_the_Arduino_Mega_board&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;2.7.1.1    Power for the Arduino Mega board&lt;/a&gt; on the &lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/wiki/RAMPS_1.4&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;RAMPS 1.4&lt;/a&gt; RepRapWiki page:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Power for the Arduino Mega board&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The RAMPS 1.4 has a 1N4004 diode labeled D1 which allows 12V to feed&#xA;and power the Arduino Mega 2560 board. This diode is installed in most&#xA;pre-assemble boards, thus the Arduino board is powered by the Ramps by&#xA;default.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the RAMPS is not powered or if the diode is not installed or&#xA;cut/removed, the Arduino gets its power from USB or a power supply&#xA;connected to its 2.1mm (center positive) power jack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Arduino provides a Vin connection to connect an external power&#xA;source that can be from 7V to 12V, remember the diode D1 can not be&#xA;connected if you plan to power the Arduino using its Vin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Tk5Sr.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Where to find the D1 diode (note that D2 is shown at the left, not D1)&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Tk5Sr.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Where to find the D1 diode (note that D2 is shown at the left, not&#xA;D1)&quot; title=&quot;Where to find the D1 diode (note that D2 is shown at the left, not D1)&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The Arduino Mega is not rated for voltages higher than 12V. If your board has a 1N4004 diode soldered in Diode D1 (which is the case with&#xA;most assembled board), do not apply more than 12V in the 5A connector&#xA;of your Ramps, refer to RAMPS 24v for more information.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4762" LastActivityDate="2022-03-09T06:21:34.600" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19078" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19079" CreationDate="2022-03-09T21:41:35.673" Score="2" ViewCount="423" Body="&lt;p&gt;In every 3D print that I have seen, the bed should be leveled (manually or with some sensor-based system) on multiple points, pretty annoying because often when you reach the perfect distance on a point another point should be adjusted again repeating the procedure multiple time to have perfect leveling on all points.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm wondering why height isn't just fixed with the optimal leveling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20123" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2022-03-10T06:37:41.760" LastActivityDate="2022-03-13T06:00:03.280" Title="Why should the bed be leveled and isn't just fixed optimally?" Tags="|bed-leveling|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19079" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19078" CreationDate="2022-03-09T21:56:56.387" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The point of &amp;quot;leveling&amp;quot; (tramming) the bed is to make it:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;square with the coordinate system of the printer so that it lies in a plane perpendicular to the direction of Z travel, and&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a known distance from the nozzle tip at one point (and thus, due to (1), all points) in the plane at any given Z value.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In theory, if the machine were all preassembled and sufficiently/perfectly rigid, this could be done once at the factory and never need leveling again. However, even if that were possible, there's at least one factor that will throw you off: you're going to want to swap/replace nozzles, and they will not all be exactly the same length - especially if you use different nozzle diameters, styles, materials, from different manufacturers, etc. This is why, even with an ABL system, unless it performs probing using the nozzle tip itself, you always have to calibrate out the offset between the probe and the nozzle tip.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In practice, many machines (especially affordable ones) require final assembly by the consumer, which necessitates calibration. They also have parts which can warp or wear and require adjustment - especially POM V-roller wheels - which will then throw off the squareness of the bed with the rest of the frame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you find you're having to re-level often, something is wrong with your printer. You may have play in the Z-axis/gantry - on Ender 3 style printers with only one side driven, the undriven side tends to wander up/down unless you get everything tensioned perfectly, and this manifests as apparent loss of leveling. You may have &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Amc62eX9ok8&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;adjustment wheels working themselves loose&lt;/a&gt; (watch the end to see final findings) that mess up your leveling (I've had good luck mitigating that with &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.prusaprinters.org/prints/115938-ender-3-bed-leveling-wheel-clips&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this add-on&lt;/a&gt;). You may have an unreliable endstop switch (mine was acting up recently after years of use, and replacing it fixed the problem entirely).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2022-03-09T21:56:56.387" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19080" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19078" CreationDate="2022-03-10T06:50:18.480" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Why? To provide a 2D  &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Plane_(geometry)&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;plane&lt;/a&gt; of the build surface that is parallel to the nozzle at the whole print area (usually the X-Y plane). If not, this leads to problems in getting the first layer to adhere to the build surface (see the many questions on &amp;quot;leveling&amp;quot; on this and other sites).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please note that for good quality printers the tramming is performed very seldomly. My CoreXY home built and my Ultimaker 3E are trammed once every few hundred prints! Usually as a result of misuse like in pulling of the print when it is still sticking too much to the plate. It is the quality of the printer and the handling of the user that determines how often this should be done, but it has to be done at least one time to establish that 2D plane.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2022-03-10T06:50:18.480" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19081" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19082" CreationDate="2022-03-10T07:16:30.433" Score="3" ViewCount="3851" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are numerous topics found on first layers that do not adhere properly causing prints to fail or cause print quality defects.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The advice is often to properly level or tram the build surface. How does one tram the build surface?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2022-03-10T22:20:56.397" Title="How do you level (or tram) your build surface correctly?" Tags="|bed-leveling|tramming|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19082" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19081" CreationDate="2022-03-10T07:16:30.433" Score="3" Body="&lt;h3&gt;Definition of leveling&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tramming, often referred to as &amp;quot;leveling&amp;quot; in the 3D printer world (&amp;quot;tramming&amp;quot; and &amp;quot;leveling&amp;quot; is used interchangeably, but &amp;quot;tramming&amp;quot; is the correct nomenclature), is the process of creating a 2D  &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Plane_(geometry)&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;plane&lt;/a&gt; of the build surface that is parallel to the nozzle at the whole print area (usually the X-Y plane).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Why tramming?&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In order to adhere the hot filament from the nozzle it is essential that the distance between the nozzle and the build surface is as constant as possible. Increase of the gap may cause the filament to not be squished enough and it may be dragged instead of deposited or create an insufficient bond to cause problems later in the print job when e.g. shrinkage of the object comes in play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;How to tram the surface?&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To tram the build surface (a build surface comes in many shapes and forms, sheet of glass, bare aluminum plate, some sort of coated heated surface, etc.) most printers are equipped with at least three so-called &amp;quot;leveling screws&amp;quot;. Why at least three? It takes a minimum of three screws to fixate a plane in space, more screws cause the bed to be over-defined or indeterminate, but with a flexible build surface it is quite common to have 4 screws although it is causing a &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Statically_indeterminate&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;statically indeterminate system&lt;/a&gt;. So, these screws need to be adjusted as such that the build surface if parallel to the nozzle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First step is to home (&lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/18453/what-is-homing-what-is-the-purpose-of-homing&quot;&gt;What is homing? What is the purpose of homing?&lt;/a&gt;) the printer, &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/homing&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;homing&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;homing&lt;/a&gt; from the &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/tags/homing/info&quot;&gt;tag wiki&lt;/a&gt; reads:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The process of determining the location of a 3D printer nozzle in&#xA;three dimensions using a reference point (home location) is referred to&#xA;as &amp;quot;homing&amp;quot;. Homing should occur before every print and involves&#xA;bringing the X, Y and Z-Axis motors to pre-defined limit locations&#xA;(usually these are endstops). Pre-recorded homing data offset values&#xA;determine the position of the build plate origin with respect to the&#xA;endstop locations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once homed (with G-code &lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#G28:_Move_to_Origin_.28Home.29&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;code&gt;G28&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/a&gt; or through the graphical user interface of the printer display) , the origin (0, 0, 0) of the printer is known, from this origin you can determine the level. Note that the X and Y is usually correct (if not, see &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6375/how-to-center-my-prints-on-the-build-platform-re-calibrate-homing-offset&quot;&gt;How to center my prints on the build platform? (Re-calibrate homing offset)&lt;/a&gt;) the Z offset depends on the height of the Z endstop and the leveling screws. For a surface that uses a sensor as endstop (see e.g. &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/16604/automatic-bed-leveling-abl-with-a-sensor-bltouch-inductive-capacitive-how&quot;&gt;Automatic Bed Leveling (ABL) with a sensor (BLTouch, inductive, capacitive), how does it work?&lt;/a&gt;) the offset is defined by G-code (&lt;code&gt;M851&lt;/code&gt;) or through the user interface of the printer display. Note that automatic bed leveling (ABL) is not magic, you still need to provide a trammed bed that is as level as possible, the sensor merely scans the surface and adjusts for larger imperfections of the build surface. After homing, move the nozzle at a certain Z value to the corner of the origin, which is usually the front left) (0, 0, Z) or close to this corner (10, 10, Z), put a piece of paper (A4/Letter) on the build surface and lower the Z to 0 (or if you hit the build surface before you reach zero height, then lower the build surface) raise the build surface until you can feel the the paper drag slightly when pulled between the nozzle and build surface (alternatively you can use a feeler gauge, A4 paper is 0.08 to 0.11 mm thick, so a 0.1 mm gauge will do fine). To be sure that the carriage hasn't been moved by the tramming, issue a homing command and move to the corner to the right and repeat the process to crete a slight drag of the paper when pulled between the nozzle and build surface. Note that tramming this point may have influenced the first point. Now repeat the homing and moving (for corners back right and back left) to start over again at the front left corner and repeating the whole process at least one to two times. This iterative process will deliver a trammed bed, the bed should now be parallel to the nozzle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Trammed, but filament not adhering...&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once trammed the build surface should be parallel to the nozzle, if the distance (usually paper thickness) is too far or too close, adhesion or first layer deposition may fail or cause surface defects like &lt;a href=&quot;/q/7229&quot;&gt;ripples&lt;/a&gt;. If not adhering the initial gap between the nozzle and the build surface (paper thickness) might be too big, making this smaller may help squish the filament more so that it adheres better to the build surface. Alternatively use an adhesive in between the build surface and the first layer, nowadays there are multiple dedicated sprays and liquids available, but some house hold product like wood glue, glue sticks and &lt;a href=&quot;/a/11183&quot;&gt;hair sprays&lt;/a&gt; could be used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Build surface cannot or is difficult to tram&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the build surface isn't perfectly flat, tramming is a challenge, or doesn't provide a 2D plane at a fixed distance of the nozzle. In such cases, scanning the build surface and adjusting during printing might help to get the filament to adhere properly; this process is called automatic bed leveling or ABL (see &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/16604/automatic-bed-leveling-abl-with-a-sensor-bltouch-inductive-capacitive-how&quot;&gt;Automatic Bed Leveling (ABL) with a sensor (BLTouch, inductive, capacitive), how does it work?&lt;/a&gt;). An alternative is UBL (see &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/18451/what-is-abl-or-ubl-is-this-the-same&quot;&gt;What is ABL or UBL? Is this the same?&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Tramming frequently?&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The frequency of tramming depends on the quality and (mis)use of the printer to maintain the 2D plane parallel to the nozzle. For good quality printers the tramming is performed very seldom.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2022-03-10T07:16:30.433" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19083" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19081" CreationDate="2022-03-10T22:20:56.397" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;For fine tuning I get good results by loading a model of any object with a rectangular footprint and scaling it to a size close to the printer's limits.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With the skirt set to around 10 passes, start the print job, let the skirt print then kill the job.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Peel the skirt from the bed and measure its thickness near the leveling screw locations with digital calipers or a micrometer and adjust the leveling screws as indicated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="33030" LastActivityDate="2022-03-10T22:20:56.397" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19085" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-03-11T18:23:57.140" Score="1" ViewCount="773" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an Ender 5 Pro with a flexible build plate (The factory default one).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are multiple extremely thin tracks of melted PLA all over it. Too thin to easily peal off when cooled. Thin enough that you can run your finger over them and barely know that they are there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the best way to clean them off other than simply brut forcing them with a scraper and risking damaging the surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rubbing with IPA and a cloth isn't enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a plastic razor that's normally used for removing vinyl decal from vehicles without scratching the paint, would that be useful, or maybe just scrubbing for an hour with a nail brush?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="29097" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2022-03-17T10:11:13.330" LastActivityDate="2022-03-17T13:19:54.803" Title="How do I clean melted PLA form an Ender 5 Pro flex build plate?" Tags="|creality-ender-5|cleaning|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19086" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19085" CreationDate="2022-03-11T21:07:06.830" Score="2" Body="&lt;h2&gt;TL;DR:&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Print more PLA on top of them, and pull it off together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Preparation&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, of course, clean it well with IPA. This will both ensure there's no oil or other material on top of the PLA that will prevent it from bonding well with new PLA, and start to work underneath it to get it loose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Printing&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then, print! Do a 2- or 3-layer square covering the whole buildplate if you need to, or just smaller ones in the affected areas. They should bond to whatever is there and pull it up when you peel them off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Prevention&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To avoid this happening in the future, &lt;strong&gt;fix your bed leveling&lt;/strong&gt;. The type of tracks that are nearly impossible to remove by themselves normally come from printing with the nozzle so low that the material is forced entirely between the texture irregularities of the build surface, with no significant layer on top, and this means your bed is at least a whole layer-height too high relative to the nozzle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2022-03-17T13:19:54.803" LastActivityDate="2022-03-17T13:19:54.803" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19087" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-03-12T17:05:17.807" Score="2" ViewCount="296" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently changed the password of my WiFi and updated the file in the &lt;code&gt;/boot&lt;/code&gt; folder of the OctoPrint's OS running on my Raspberry Pi.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yet, it is now in plain text, and I would like to avoid storing it that way. What can I do to make the file more secure?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The automatic configuration from the Raspberry Pi imager generated an encrypted version of the password. But I'm not planning to flash everything again, so that's not an option.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28455" LastEditorUserId="36802" LastEditDate="2023-12-07T18:38:16.943" LastActivityDate="2023-12-09T00:49:17.093" Title="How to encrypt the WiFi password in the OctoPi config file?" Tags="|octoprint|raspberry-pi|wi-fi|octopi|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19088" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19087" CreationDate="2022-03-12T17:10:36.983" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is no way to store it that's &amp;quot;more secure&amp;quot;. In order to connect to the network, a device needs the password. The configuration tool you used likely just stored an encoded (which means roughly the &lt;em&gt;opposite&lt;/em&gt; of encrypted, despite many people not understanding the difference) form of the password. To store it encrypted would require also storing a decryption key to decrypt and use it, but then whoever reads the SD card could just read the key too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is nothing special about a Raspberry Pi in this. Your PCs, phones, etc. all store wifi passwords in a form that can be read back, and that is read back every time they use them to connect to a network. If they don't make it easy for you the human user to read back the password, that's simply a user interface choice they've made to give you a false sense of safety, not any actual security boundary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2022-03-12T17:10:36.983" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19089" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-03-12T17:24:23.667" Score="2" ViewCount="1542" Body="&lt;p&gt;My Creality CR-10 Smart 3D printer has built-in auto bed levelling (ABL). It appears that it is cannot do anything if ABL is not set up properly. Setting up ABL entails creating a valid &lt;em&gt;mesh&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am using the latest firmware from Creality (v1.0.13), which I believe is Marlin. To set up a valid mesh in Marlin you have to execute the g-code &lt;code&gt;G29&lt;/code&gt; with appropriate parameters. This begs a lot of questions, including whether you should use &lt;em&gt;unified&lt;/em&gt; or &lt;em&gt;bilinear&lt;/em&gt; bed levelling (whatever they are).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, when you issue any &lt;code&gt;G29&lt;/code&gt; command, you get the following error message:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MR49f.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MR49f.png&quot; alt=&quot;G29 execution and response&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In other words, you need to issue a &lt;code&gt;G28&lt;/code&gt; command first. I did that, and the following happened:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hT8j8.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hT8j8.png&quot; alt=&quot;G28 execution and response&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;i.e. &lt;code&gt;G28&lt;/code&gt; complains about the invalid mesh that executing &lt;code&gt;G29&lt;/code&gt; is supposed to fix. In addition the printer seizes up and has to be rebooted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do I escape this vicious circle? The CR-10 Smart does not seem to offer any explicit controls to completely reinitialise the machine from the LED control panel, other than an &lt;code&gt;M502&lt;/code&gt;, which does not change the behaviour of a subsequent &lt;code&gt;G28&lt;/code&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can anyone help with this please?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="32843" LastActivityDate="2023-02-12T14:16:49.033" Title="How do you fix an &quot;invalid mesh&quot; on a CR-10 Smart 3D printer?" Tags="|g-code|bed-leveling|creality-cr-10|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19090" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19078" CreationDate="2022-03-13T06:00:03.280" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;In addition to the answers above, you can have perfect levelling for one filament that doesn't work with another.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So for instance my normal PLA works perfectly at one bed level, yet if I change to the generic silk I have it won't adhere unless I change the bed height fractionally. The differences are tiny but are make or break changes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Copper PLA filament is slightly different to both in terms of getting a nice first layer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;ABS also requires slightly tighter bed levelling on my printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So while I rarely change bed levelling, I do if I'm changing filament. But quite often I don't bother with the whole levelling thing, I just adjust the knobs while the skirt is printing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is from my experience, your mileage may differ.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31811" LastActivityDate="2022-03-13T06:00:03.280" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19091" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19021" CreationDate="2022-03-13T06:48:25.817" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Flash the firmware. If that doesn't fix it then you have a defective printer assuming everything else in your question and comments is correct.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31811" LastActivityDate="2022-03-13T06:48:25.817" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19092" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19023" CreationDate="2022-03-13T06:53:38.867" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I pull them off by hand and then a few quick passes with a cigarette lighter works for me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31811" LastActivityDate="2022-03-13T06:53:38.867" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19095" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14488" CreationDate="2022-03-14T13:01:39.577" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Petroleum based lubricants are perfectly acceptable for use with PLA, as well as PETG and TPU, and will not attack the polymer. I use STP red high temp automotive grease in my printed gears with no problems. ABS and ASA on the other hand sould not be used with such lubricants.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your print quality is poor and you have lots of extrusion gaps between layers or between walls, it seems plausible that &lt;em&gt;any&lt;/em&gt; lubricant will work its way into these gaps and loosen any points where it's just friction between the extrusion lines, rather than actual fusing of the plastic, holding them together. But this should not happen in parts intended for serious mechanical usage, which need to be printed in a manner that's structurally sound.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2022-03-14T13:01:39.577" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19096" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14488" CreationDate="2022-03-14T14:45:34.517" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Try aerosol silicone spray first. That's worked well for me in most situations.  It is reasonably innocuous and dries so is clean and doesn't attract or hold particulate contaminants.  If that proves insufficient then try other options.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Graphite powder is a good dry lubricant but has disadvantages; doesn't adhere so has limited &amp;quot;staying power&amp;quot;, may be electrically conductive and is messy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If grease is indicated consider an anti-seize compound, essentially grease with a large dose of graphite mixed in. It's messy but may be a good solution if dry compounds or oils don't do the job.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="33030" LastActivityDate="2022-03-14T14:45:34.517" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19097" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19025" CreationDate="2022-03-15T11:09:53.967" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Besides using a different macro, it is also possible to use &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.klipper3d.org/Config_Reference.html#homing_override&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;[homing_override]&lt;/a&gt; which allows you to redefine the homing sequence.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can write a simple homing_override like (untested!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;[homing_override]&#xA;axes: xyz&#xA;gcode:&#xA;  M80&#xA;  G28&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and you are done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Be aware that this very simple override will home all axes every time homing is called: &amp;quot;G28 X0&amp;quot; will home also Y and Z. You can put checks to home only what is requested, see &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/zellneralex/klipper_config/blob/master/homing.cfg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; but it become more involved.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2338" LastActivityDate="2022-03-15T11:09:53.967" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19098" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-03-15T12:30:40.287" Score="0" ViewCount="1592" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am trying to configure my Ender 3 v2, but I am having (again) trouble with layer adhesion: With the CHEP leveling test I am having these problematic &amp;quot;blobs&amp;quot; at each lower left of the squares (where the nozzle &amp;quot;leaves&amp;quot; the current square and &amp;quot;enters&amp;quot; from the previous (outer) square, touching the bed again). I don't know what the reason for that could be. I started with a 205 °C nozzle temperature&#xA;and a 50 °C bed temperature and tried many versions with higher or lower temperature (both for nozzle and the bed), and I also tried various positive and negative Z-offsets. Sometimes the layer adhesion was slightly better (especially when raising the bed temperature to 60 °C and making the Z offset = -0.2), but the blobs persisted (and each time the nozzle scraped over it, the layer was pulled off again). Any idea what I should try next?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GaN99.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GaN99.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT after your suggestions: While I have not reduced the distance between nozzle and bed further (a sheet of paper between them almost ripped when trying to move it), you got me thinking and I checked the extrusion. And indeed, the extrusion factor was way off. After calibrating the results look now much better: &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YlRtd.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YlRtd.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The lines are squished much better into the bed, and also the blobs are much smaller (and less &amp;quot;prominent&amp;quot;, i.e. lying flat). But I am still having (slightly smaller) problems at the same points (lower left corners of the squares): While the initial adhesion is fine (the nozzle starts at each square in the lower left corner and then travels &amp;quot;right, up, left, down&amp;quot;, i.e. counter-clockwise), it comes loose when the square is completed (due to the nozzle &amp;quot;hitting&amp;quot; the blob in the lower left corner at the end of the square.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What can I do next in order to improve things? A lower Z-offset (trying to eliminate the blobs further) has not really worked.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="32290" LastEditorUserId="32290" LastEditDate="2022-03-15T14:02:47.767" LastActivityDate="2022-03-15T14:02:47.767" Title="&quot;Blobs&quot; at beginning and end of layer and no adhesion" Tags="|print-quality|bed-leveling|adhesion|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19099" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19098" CreationDate="2022-03-15T12:41:40.007" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It looks like your nozzle distance to the bed is still too high, so the extruded material does not start sticking to the bed until there's a small blob of it on the nozzle end. This is consistent with how the extrusion lines in the photo seem to be round rather than flattened against the bed. Assuming 0.4 mm nozzle/line width and something like 0.2 or 0.3 layer height they should be a lot wider than they are thick.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's also possible that you may have retraction speed or distance problems going on at the same time. If your retraction distance is too high, the material will cool while retracted and then will not be able to push through the hotend/nozzle until it re-melts, possibly causing skipping or delayed extrusion when you unretract and restart. But if so, I think this is secondary and you should fix the bed height first - then you can print retraction test towers to tune your retraction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2022-03-15T12:41:40.007" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19102" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-03-16T03:20:10.253" Score="1" ViewCount="1185" Body="&lt;p&gt;My Ender 3 v2 is reporting &lt;code&gt;printer killed&lt;/code&gt; and &lt;code&gt;homing failed&lt;/code&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does that means that my printer is dead?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that I just got the printer 3 days ago and I haven't been able to do any prints.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="33529" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2022-03-16T12:25:57.997" LastActivityDate="2022-03-16T12:25:57.997" Title="Printer reports &quot;printer killed&quot; and &quot;homing failed&quot;, what does that mean?" Tags="|creality-ender-3|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19103" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19109" CreationDate="2022-03-16T10:44:16.077" Score="1" ViewCount="580" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a problem with my E 3nder3 (3DTouch, Skr mini e3 v1.2, Dragon hotend with afterburner mount, other parts are original), where after using ABL, at the start of the print the Z-axis just seems to ignore where the 0 point should be and keeps trying to go down for a good second, then it just starts the print as if nothing happened.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The things I've tried and the observations I've made:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;After reflashing Marlin, I've tried printing without creating a mesh, and it worked as normal (using the BLTouch as a Z stop, but not making a mesh). This should eliminate the Z stop being a problem&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;After creating the mesh even once, everything goes wrong like explained above&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I've tried leveling the bed with paper, and when using the bed visualizer in OctoPi, everything seemed pretty close to normal, so the sensor itself seems to work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Now the weird thing was, that the day this started happening, moving the Z-axis by hand seemed to be way harder than usual, as if the rod is not lubricated, so I lubricated it with my tool grease. That didn't solve the problem. It still feels as if some of the rubber bearings are stuck on the gantry. After checking them 1 by 1, none of them seemed particularly loose or tight compared to the others.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26639" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2022-03-17T13:01:49.260" LastActivityDate="2022-03-17T13:01:49.260" Title="Ender 3 with BLTouch ignores Z0" Tags="|creality-ender-3|troubleshooting|z-axis|bltouch|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19104" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18833" CreationDate="2022-03-16T12:16:03.813" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If your prints are coming out OK and you do not see obvious failures, then it's most likely that your screen started leaking light. In general, LCD screens does not fully block UV light and some does get through even through &amp;quot;dark&amp;quot; pixels. With time it gets worse and more and more light is able to get through the screen. At some point, that parasitic light becomes enough to cure some resin over a longer printing time. And this is what you are seeing. The only solution to this is to replace your LCD screen with a new one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28767" LastActivityDate="2022-03-16T12:16:03.813" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19105" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13523" CreationDate="2022-03-16T12:23:11.677" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can definitely print full build plates of minis. You just need to find correct settings. If nothing sticks to the build plate - then you should increase bottom exposure time. Also check if the build plate is even. You can also sand your build plate a little bit to make adhesion better. Additionally, print with lower print speeds to increase success.&#xA;Finally, if your FEP is worn out and scratched or hazy, you should replace it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I own a company producing 3D printing resins. We also write extensive printing guides from time to time. You can read more on finding correct settings in this &lt;a href=&quot;https://ameralabs.com/blog/the-complete-resin-3d-printing-settings-guide-for-beginners/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;article&lt;/a&gt; of mine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28767" LastEditorUserId="28767" LastEditDate="2022-03-18T07:22:56.930" LastActivityDate="2022-03-18T07:22:56.930" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19106" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-03-16T16:44:08.050" Score="4" ViewCount="1441" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am looking for troubleshooting help on my printer. Recently the hot end just can muster the courage to go past about 70 °C.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The hardware - Ender 3V2 with a E3D V6 hot end. 24 volts&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I changed the thermistor to a new one. Before heating, it registers an appropriate 10 °C in line with the bed temp sensor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With the thermistor checked good, I looked at the heater element. It is reading 22 Ω. The documentation from E3D is not clear in what wattage heater I bought, but if it is a 30 W 24 V heater, it's on the high end of acceptable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A 24 V 30 W heater cartridge will read between 16.7 - 22.6 Ω.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A 24 V 40 W heater cartridge will read between 12.3 - 15.1 Ω.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If anyone is able to confirm how to know what my heater wattage is supposed to be, LMK. Options are shown for blue wires, red wires, and yellow. I have yellow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the resistance is in spec, I checked if the voltage being supplied to the heater is correct. It is reading 23.6 V which seems good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have attempted to PID autotune in Pronterface which I had also done several times previously before the issue. If I try to target anything over 70 °C, the attempt to tune fails because it can't get hot enough. I can tune if I set the temp to 65 °C by comparison.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The temperature trace in Pronterface shows the temp rising quickly through the 30s, 40s, then plateauing and maxing out in the high 60s.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am looking for advice on where to look next for trouble shooting. Seems odd to suddenly have such a low temperature limit capability that I can't root cause.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="33537" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2022-03-16T17:14:08.093" LastActivityDate="2022-12-29T09:06:20.703" Title="Hotend can't achieve temperatures over ~70 °C?" Tags="|creality-ender-3|e3d-v6|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19107" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19110" CreationDate="2022-03-16T18:13:48.567" Score="1" ViewCount="390" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a (preferably in matlab) 3D array of Booleans describing a voxel structure. I want to turn this into an .stl file but I don't want the final result to have the jagged cubes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have tried putting the voxel array into a marching cube algorithm but the resulting STL is not a solid, some parts are infinitely thin sheets. I want every voxel to be represented by something solid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a way to achieve this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="33538" LastActivityDate="2022-03-17T12:18:29.627" Title="Obtaining a smooth solid .stl from voxel data" Tags="|3d-models|stl|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19108" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19085" CreationDate="2022-03-16T23:06:18.403" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you can feel it with your finger, then you can scrape it off. Just be careful. Keep the scraper closer to horizontal and don't dig in. It doesn't really need much effort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can't feel it with your finger then it doesn't matter. Just clean as normal and carry on printing over it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31811" LastActivityDate="2022-03-16T23:06:18.403" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19109" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19103" CreationDate="2022-03-17T10:06:36.493" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Successfully solved the problem. Removed the Z rod from its socket, and greased up the threaded slot it goes into on the x gantry, that seemed to solve the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26639" LastActivityDate="2022-03-17T10:06:36.493" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19110" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19107" CreationDate="2022-03-17T12:18:29.627" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Voxels are pretty much an interpolation of data points and you can only &lt;em&gt;smooth&lt;/em&gt; them out by reducing the fidelity. Why? Because in acquiring the voxel, you already lost fidelity. Let me take you through an example.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;The basics&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For our basics we take a circle of Radius &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$R$&lt;/span&gt;. It can be fully described the following: &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$$x^2+y^2=R$$&lt;/span&gt; All solutions to this give us points on the circle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Its representation as a single voxel with resolution length &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$r$&lt;/span&gt; is that of a square. The square with its center on &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$\{0,0\}$&lt;/span&gt; we will call the voxel of resolution &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$r$&lt;/span&gt; around that coordinate. It is defined as &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$$x =\{0.5r,-0.5r\} \land y=\{-0.5r \to 0.5r\}$$&lt;/span&gt; &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$$y=\{0.5r,-0.5r\}\land x=\{-0.5r \to 0.5r\}$$&lt;/span&gt; Other squares then can be created by simply adding the respective cell's center's coordinates &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$\{a,b\}$&lt;/span&gt; for &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$$x' =\{0.5r,-0.5r\}+a \land y'=\{-0.5r \to 0.5r\}+b$$&lt;/span&gt; &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$$y'=\{0.5r,-0.5r\}+b\land x'=\{-0.5r \to 0.5r\}+a$$&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looks complicated? True, but you see: the first formula is a circle with radius &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$R$&lt;/span&gt; containing an area of &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$A=\pi*R^2$&lt;/span&gt;. The latter two blocks define the square of length &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$r$&lt;/span&gt; and area &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$A=r^2$&lt;/span&gt;. By clever positioning, the grid with &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$R=r$&lt;/span&gt; has its &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$\{0,0\}$&lt;/span&gt; Voxel wholly contained in that circle. Or in a picture, it looks like this, using &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$r=R=50$&lt;/span&gt; (and thus a diameter of 100).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/J1GWB.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/J1GWB.png&quot; alt=&quot;50 unit radius circle, overlay of a 50 unit square grid&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you see, there is an area between the circle and the square - this is fidelity that is lost when converting to voxels. In a typical voxel transformation, there is only one choice: at which point of filling does a voxel get filled to 100% and at which it gets filled to 0%. Let's assume the circle there is actually a cylinder of 50 units height. Depending on where we set the cutoff, we now get one of three solutions. We could end with one voxel, using 50% as the cutoff point. We could end with a plus shape using 45% as the cutoff point or a square using any filling above 0% as a cutoff, as shown in the following picture.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fDiid.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fDiid.png&quot; alt=&quot;3 different voxel representations of the same cylinder of 50 unit radius using 50 unit wide cells&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It gets even more complicated if you don't have the circle and the grid's center overlap like n the example above: there is a &amp;quot;2x2x1&amp;quot; voxel solution that reflects a &lt;em&gt;differently aligned&lt;/em&gt; circle with the same cutoff point as the &amp;quot;1x1x1&amp;quot; solution! That circle is (in the next graphic) centered around &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$\{3.5 r,0.5 r\}$&lt;/span&gt; and thus shifted half a unit up and right so its center overlaps with a corner of the voxels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AKfwY.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AKfwY.png&quot; alt=&quot;a shifted circle in the same grid&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Lost fidelity can't be regained&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You see, you have lost a lot of fidelity in voxelizing. All circles have become squares. All squares &lt;strong&gt;also&lt;/strong&gt; are squares. Likewise, all curves in between have become squares.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;The problem&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, it is nigh impossible for a computer to identify, what once was a circle square or square before all was made squares. Think... Colors: I take a picture of a smiley. I split it in half and then desaturate the upper half of the right side to black and white and totally saturate the lower. Those are two different ways to totally loose the color information. In the upper case you retain &lt;em&gt;one&lt;/em&gt; information more, because the algorithm of making all colors but black white retains the black information, while the lower parts algorithm only retains the outer shape.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KaApD.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KaApD.png&quot; alt=&quot;A Smiley, left side yellow and with a face, right side upper half desaturated to black and white, lower half oversaturated to only black.&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you only had the black and white smiley, you have lost the information about its color in total. If you only have the black outline, you have lost also the information of the face.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Voxelizaion does loose about that much information, depending on the settings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Reversing Voxelisation is interpreting the voxel structure&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's not possible for a computer algorithm to simply invert the process. However, there &lt;strong&gt;are&lt;/strong&gt; ways to interpret a voxelized object and try to re-create one of the possible objects that have led to this item, assuming that an &amp;quot;any fill is a voxel&amp;quot; algorithm has been used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For such, you'd import the model into a software such as Blender, solidify it so that it is one mesh without internal faces, and then running a smoothing operation. You don't get &lt;em&gt;the&lt;/em&gt; object that generated that voxel structure, but you get &lt;strong&gt;an&lt;/strong&gt; Object that would generate that voxel structure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pAM2I.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pAM2I.png&quot; alt=&quot;Example of a solidified voxel-object undergoing a smoothing operation to generate one possible parent.&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How good the interpretation of the voxels is, depends on the resolution chosen in the start. If &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$r$&lt;/span&gt; is small enough, then the resulting interpretation, together with some artistic definition of which corners are sharp and quite some manual post-processing (which requires the human eye) can lead to a somewhat good approximation of the actual object you believe lead to the voxel structure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastActivityDate="2022-03-17T12:18:29.627" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19111" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-03-17T19:41:33.363" Score="1" ViewCount="101" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been trying to print parts for Voron 2.4 but I'm having issues getting proper surface on walls. I'm printing with ABS. I couldn't find same problem all over the net looking at the images. Bed adhesion is quite good and printing temp is 240 °C and bed temp is around 100 °C.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/I7Leh.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/I7Leh.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;image 1&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TzECO.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TzECO.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;image 2&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="32313" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2022-03-17T22:18:46.490" LastActivityDate="2022-03-17T22:18:46.490" Title="Weird blobs all over shell" Tags="|abs|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19112" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-03-17T19:55:31.040" Score="0" ViewCount="3035" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an Ender 3v2 and I recently installed the CR Touch auto bed leveler. I was wondering how to add more probing points.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="33552" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2022-03-17T21:13:37.823" LastActivityDate="2022-09-08T14:04:25.407" Title="How to add more probing points on the CR Touch" Tags="|creality-ender-3|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19113" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-03-17T20:37:34.813" Score="1" ViewCount="206" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an Ender CR-10 which I recently installed a clone of a BLTouch on. It all worked fine and printed well but once when I started the printer all the pixels on the LCD were white. Then when I started the 4th time the LCD just went all black and I got no power to it. I also have a Raspberry Pi 4B which I tried connecting to the printer but it couldn't anymore.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do I need to get a new motherboard or is there anything I can do to see where the error is so I can fix it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;I havent measured any voltage yet, I'll have to do that when I have some spare time...&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="33553" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2022-03-17T22:20:15.797" LastActivityDate="2022-03-17T22:20:15.797" Title="How do I know if my motherboard is dead?" Tags="|creality-cr-10|lcd-screen|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19115" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-03-18T12:28:21.573" Score="2" ViewCount="167" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does Z offset matter after the first layer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am using a commercial PLA filament to print 72 mm (length) x 42 mm (width) x 3 mm (thickness) samples. There are 30 layers to be laid in total with each layer's height being 0.1 mm. The nozzle diameter is 0.4 mm. The part is 100 % solid and the raster angle is 0°. I am using Ultimaker Cura slicer and the printer is Ender 6. I encounter the problem of nozzle scraping the uppermost region of multiple (5 samples, all aligned at the top of the build plate) as the print job progresses. I assume it begins after 20 layers (possibly). The scraping is absent in the bottom region of the rectangular-shaped printed samples.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has anybody else encountered this problem, has solved it or can think of what might be causing this? Could an off Z offset setting have an influence on the later layers?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do note that the first layer is laid down fine with no visible voids or signs of nozzle scraping the bed/deposited neighboring raster.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These images show the scraping phenomena. The warping was not an issue during the execution of the print job, so please disregard it. The bunny print has no flaw and the G-code for this was present beforehand in the Creality Ender 6 SD card, while the orange samples were designed on Tinkercad and sliced using Cura.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yrPNG.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;bunny print&quot; /&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4nour.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;orange sample&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.dropbox.com/sh/h3r1xc08euk7156/AACiWvRpKieajYU-PIDsurH_a?dl=0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Original Dropbox link&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="33558" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2022-03-18T20:50:37.173" LastActivityDate="2022-03-18T20:50:37.173" Title="Z offset's possible role in scraping final printed layers" Tags="|creality-ender-6|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19116" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13523" CreationDate="2022-03-18T12:43:32.820" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can fill the plate as much as you want, as long as the playing figure is not at the edge of the plate (can create problems).&#xA;The problem could be that the plate is too smooth or that it is not perfectly level.&#xA;If the plate is too smooth you could use some sandpaper to make it rough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="33490" LastActivityDate="2022-03-18T12:43:32.820" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19117" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-03-18T17:25:38.343" Score="4" ViewCount="17761" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Is it possible to 3D print multiple 0.1 mm high layers with a 0.4 mm diameter nozzle in FDM while ensuring fidelity to the set layer height? The raster width is set at 0.4 mm and I am not touching that. The part thickness is 3 mm, so 30 layers of 0.1 mm have to be deposited for the completion of the print job. My polymer is PLA.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If not, should I be using a 0.2 mm diameter nozzle for this purpose?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Can a 0.4 mm print nozzle print rasters with higher width (0.5 mm, 0.6 mm, etc.)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="33558" LastActivityDate="2022-03-18T19:04:55.733" Title="Print limitations with 0.4 mm nozzle" Tags="|nozzle|layer-height|dimensional-accuracy|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19118" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19117" CreationDate="2022-03-18T18:28:51.933" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;https://blog.prusaprinters.org/everything-about-nozzles-with-a-different-diameter_8344/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;general consensus for nozzle diameter versus layer height&lt;/a&gt; is to limit the layer thickness to eighty percent of the nozzle diameter. For a 0.4 mm nozzle, one usually limits the layer to 0.3 mm. The printer on which the nozzle is installed will determine the minimum layer thickness, often a typical value of 0.10 mm. I have printed successfully to 0.10 mm layer thickness with a 0.40 mm nozzle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The linked site says just about the same as above, but also provides useful information regarding appearance, speed, strength, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With a &amp;quot;next size up&amp;quot; nozzle of 0.6 mm, you'd want to limit the layer height to 0.48 mm but you might get away with 0.50 mm layers as there is some wiggle woom.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For 0.8 mm nozzle, you can get your 0.60 mm layers as the max for that nozzle is 0.64 mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The article also references that one can print wider than nozzle dimensions by increasing the extrusion factor, which may go by other terms, depending on the slicer used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastEditorUserId="854" LastEditDate="2022-03-18T19:04:55.733" LastActivityDate="2022-03-18T19:04:55.733" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19119" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19117" CreationDate="2022-03-18T19:01:36.997" Score="6" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Yes, absolutely. I believe the original sample file that came with the Ender 3 (0.4 mm nozzle) was sliced for 0.1 mm layer height. As long as your printer can get decently precise Z positioning at 0.1 mm increments, it should be able to do it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I've never used smaller nozzles but they pose challenges that make them unattractive. It's hard to flow material through such a small opening, so you have to go slow and use narrow line widths. This may make sense for really small parts, but even then there are tradeoffs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Yes, you can print lines wider than the nozzle, up to at least the width of the flat end of the nozzle, and with slightly reduced quality, even beyond that. Lost in Tech on YouTube has several videos showing his results doing this with very wide lines, up to nearly 2 mm if I recall. For 25% to 50% over the nozzle width, it's no problem at all, and a lot of people even recommend doing that. Wider lines improve overhang quality and part strength, but may compromise the ability to print fine detail.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2022-03-18T19:01:36.997" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19121" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13523" CreationDate="2022-03-20T12:25:57.710" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I regularly print multiple models on the build plate of an Elegoo Saturn. If your built plate is level and your tank is firmly fastened down you should have no problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I have found is the my slicer (Chitubox) will sometimes corrupt the base layer if I print multiple models. With me this usually causes the bottom layer to be deformed, and to have jutting protrusions that were not on the original layer, or for the slicer not to recognize the base layer as being flat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The second picture shows an example of how the skate or one model was deformed. The small pieces of cured resin are corrupted data and aren't part of any model or support structure. They were not visible in Chitubox unless I manually rotated the object view and saw little visual glitches.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would advice that you check your sliced files.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See the example image:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dnTJC.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dnTJC.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gQzHT.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gQzHT.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="29097" LastActivityDate="2022-03-20T12:25:57.710" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19122" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-03-20T12:27:43.657" Score="2" ViewCount="620" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I leave an uncured resin print in an IPA cleaning tank for too long (For example, if I forget to take it out and leave it in over night) will this damage the print?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm using Elegoo gray.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="29097" LastActivityDate="2023-12-10T19:09:11.063" Title="Will prolonged expose to IPA damage uncured prints?" Tags="|cleaning|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19123" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19122" CreationDate="2022-03-20T17:43:31.853" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;EN&#xA;Parts start to get tacky when the resin concentration is 5-10% in the IPA tank. It is advisable to shake the pieces for several seconds. In this way the solvent goes well in all the interstices. Then let the object soak for a few more minutes.&#xA;We can repeat the action a second time before leaving a longer drying.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;FR&#xA;Les pièces commencent à devenir poisseuses lorsque la concentration en résine est à 5-10 % dans le bac à IPA. Il est conseillée de d'agitais plusieurs secondes la piéces. De cette manière le solvant va bien dans tous les interstices. On laisse ensuite tremper l’objet encore quelques minutes.&#xA;On peut refaire l'action une deuxième fois avant de laisser un séchages plus long.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="33577" LastActivityDate="2022-03-20T17:43:31.853" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19124" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18936" CreationDate="2022-03-20T19:33:47.167" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Look at the gcode for those curves either manually in a text editor, or with a gcode analyzer tool (e.g. &lt;a href=&quot;https://gcode.ws&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;gcode.ws&lt;/a&gt;) and see if there's anything strange about them. Cura is notorious for numeric instability problems with high resolution curves, where it will end up generating a few tiny moves (on the order of 0.005 mm) here and there that get truncated to zero motion on one axis and nonzero on the other (due to fixed rounding to 3 decimal places). To the printer firmware's motion planner, these look like sharp corners (because the angle changed severely from the last move), forcing it decelerate and re-accelerate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The right fix for this is fixing Cura's numerical precision flaws. &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/Piezoid/CuraEngine&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;@piezoid&lt;/a&gt; has a WIP branch doing this that might eventually push upstream to improve, but I wouldn't hold my breath. Short of that, there are a couple good workarounds:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Check the &amp;quot;Maximum Resolution&amp;quot; and &amp;quot;Maximum Deviation&amp;quot; settings in Cura. You might have to unhide them if they're hidden. The defaults on modern Cura versions are 0.5 and 0.025 which tend to avoid the problem well, but older versions had bad values. (And of course, make sure you're using a recent version.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Lowering the resolution (having it use a coarser triangle mesh) exported from your CAD software tends to avoid the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Some people have reported success with the &lt;a href=&quot;https://marketplace.ultimaker.com/app/cura/plugins/fieldofview/ArcWelderPlugin&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Arc Welder plugin&lt;/a&gt;, but I'm not sure this is a good idea, and it depends on your printer having firmware that accepts the arc motion commands.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2022-03-20T19:33:47.167" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19125" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13523" CreationDate="2022-03-20T20:30:17.217" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Open your file in your slicer, and set it to only view the bottom few layers. Spin the view around several times and view it from different angles. Look for odd shadows or lines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it looks anything like the below image then the problem isn't with your printer, it's with the file that you've just sliced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AaOM6.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AaOM6.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For some reason the slicer no longer sees its own raft as being flat, and it is creating floating geometry that sometimes breaks loose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've found that I can sometimes resolve this problem by reducing the size of the raft. About 105% usually does it for me. Otherwise the problem might be the geometry of the models that you're printing. I tend to print off models that I've made myself, so it's quite possible that it's something that I've done, or the way that I've exported the STL files.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="29097" LastActivityDate="2022-03-20T20:30:17.217" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19126" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-03-20T21:00:01.917" Score="2" ViewCount="501" Body="&lt;p&gt;My CR10-S5 with Creality v2.2 mainboard recently suffered from the hotend heater transistor (MOSFET) failing short. After taking a look at the board, I tried to be clever and use the &lt;code&gt;HEATER1&lt;/code&gt; output instead for my hotend. However, after swapping pins in &lt;code&gt;pins_RAMPS.h&lt;/code&gt;, there is no response to turning on the heater. I have confirmed zero volts on the board output with a multimeter, so it shouldn't be a failed heater cartridge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any other lines of code I should be changing to get this to work? I am using TH3D Unified 2 firmware with BLTouch enabled.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="33578" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2022-03-22T08:24:48.233" LastActivityDate="2023-03-12T12:34:51.517" Title="Program Creality v2.2 board to use HEATER1 transistor for HEATER0" Tags="|marlin|hotend|creality-cr-10|th3d|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19128" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-03-21T00:10:35.037" Score="0" ViewCount="3740" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;What is the purpose of Z-axis compensation setting in the adjustment section of the Ender 6 screen panel?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Is Z-axis compensation the same thing as Z-offset?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If Z-axis compensation is the same as Z-offset, does it change each time when you do bed levelling manually?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Does Z-axis compensation setting have any influence on the successful printing of layers after the first deposited layer? If so, how?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="33558" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2022-03-21T11:44:43.113" LastActivityDate="2023-12-13T12:08:21.013" Title="Z-axis compensation" Tags="|z-axis|creality-ender-6|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19129" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19136" CreationDate="2022-03-21T10:11:29.947" Score="0" ViewCount="490" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm working on a gadget a bit like a jewelry box. I want the lid on a hinge. Are 3d printed hinges robust enough for daily use long term? Perhaps with a metal pin?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to incorporate the hinge into the design but my thinking is that it would be a waste of time if the hinge will break as I'd need to reprint the whole gadget.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31811" LastActivityDate="2022-03-22T22:25:52.060" Title="Tips on incorporating a robust hinge" Tags="|3d-design|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19130" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19129" CreationDate="2022-03-21T12:22:17.827" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;More detailed information would be valuable. A hinge the size of a soft drink can is going to be stronger than that of a pencil, generally speaking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A substantial portion of determining the strength of a specific printed object relies on the layer orientation and of the material from which the object is printed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Consider to examine others' creations on sites such as Thingiverse and PrusaPrinters to see how the result fare against your objectives. I've noted that the better designs will have substantial wall thickness to the barrel portion of the hinge. Additionally, if one can print the hinge with the cylinder axis oriented vertically, the layer lines will &amp;quot;encompass&amp;quot; the pivot. This provides the better strength characteristic of the layer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The pin aspect is not as important when considering strength, although a 3D printed pin can be weak if printed vertically.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastActivityDate="2022-03-21T12:22:17.827" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19131" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19129" CreationDate="2022-03-21T13:14:13.863" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The reliability of hinges depends on the design, the material, and the slice parameters.  I've printed reliable hinges that snap together using somewhat flexible materials such as PETG and ABS.  PLA will tend to crack eventually if remaining flexed.  Pins can avoid flexing the hinge.  You could also use screws to hold hinge pieces together.  Gluing pieces of a small hinge together would be difficult to do without interfering with the movement of the hinge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15075" LastActivityDate="2022-03-21T13:14:13.863" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19132" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19128" CreationDate="2022-03-21T14:18:25.870" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Generally speaking, the Z-offset is the distance between the trigger point of a Z-endstop sensor and the nozzle. But, the Z-offset can be seen as the build plate to nozzle distance, it is a modifier of the nozzle position in Z direction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mapping the surface of the build plate and storing the mesh to maintain a nozzle at the same distance from the build plate is considered Z-axis compensation, and is not the same as a Z-offset. These are separate things. However, the Ender 6 has 5-point assisted leveling, 4 corner and the middle of the bed. It is not capable to map the build surface as a mesh. Most probably the firmware could (as those functions are available in Marlin firmware for a long time), but the graphical LCD doesn't allow to interface with these functions of the firmware.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Ender 6 doesn't have a Z-axis sensor (it has a Z-endstop), so automatic bed leveling is not an option and one has to do manual leveling by scanning multiple points of the build plate (as described above; 4 corners and the middle of the bed). Z-axis compensation is an offset to the level you have defined. Note the latter can be done in most slicers as well. E.g. many people like to increase the offset when printing PETG.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2022-03-23T09:49:11.353" LastActivityDate="2022-03-23T09:49:11.353" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19134" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-03-21T22:22:09.743" Score="1" ViewCount="50" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am printing 5-152 mm(L)x35 mm(W)x3 mm(T) samples using a commercial PLA filament with 0.1 mm layer height (30 total layers). The raster width is 0.4 mm while the raster angle in all layers is 0/0°. The bed temperature was 0 °C, while the printing temperature was 220 °C. The printing speed was 60 mm/s. The Z-axis compensation value was 0. The slicer I am using is Ultimaker's Cura, while the printer is Creality's Ender 6. The sample on the extreme right is nearly flawless (I am at a loss why is that) but all other samples show the kind of creases that are formed if one irons the cloth improperly or shows distortions resembling speed humps (circled in the image).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can anybody who has encountered this problem before, enlighten me about the cause of this structural defect? As one can appreciate, layers laid atop these defects would be reflecting these as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lMQCc.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Printed samples with speed bump like structural distortions&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lMQCc.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Printed samples with speed bump like structural distortions&quot; title=&quot;Printed samples with speed bump like structural distortions&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="33558" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2022-03-22T00:15:00.527" LastActivityDate="2022-03-22T00:15:00.527" Title="Speed bump like structural distortions in 3D printed samples" Tags="|bed-leveling|nozzle|creality-ender-6|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19135" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-03-21T22:47:32.763" Score="1" ViewCount="22" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am printing 5-152 mm(L)x35 mm(W)x3 mm(T) samples using a commercial PLA filament with 0.1 mm layer height (30 total layers). The raster width is 0.4 mm while the raster angle in all layers is 0/0°. The bed temperature was 0 °C, while the printing temperature was 220 °C. The printing speed was 60 mm/s. The Z-axis compensation value is 0. I am seeing a loss of resolution, accretion, and burning of the polymer at the edges. What can be possibly causing this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/L3hfU.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Printed samples with burned edges&quot; title=&quot;Printed samples with burned edges&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="33558" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2022-03-22T00:17:21.483" LastActivityDate="2022-03-22T00:17:21.483" Title="Loss of resolution, burning, accretion of polymer at edges" Tags="|resolution|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19136" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19129" CreationDate="2022-03-22T01:14:33.700" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can make a print-in-place hinge as a horizontal cone with a 45-degree angle.  The opposing face will be a similar conical hole with a 0.25 mm gap between the faces (or whatever your printer's tolerance needs to be).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The strength of this (as in the other answers) depends on the diameter of the hinge.  The strength you need depends on how heavy the thing it holds up will be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are many parts on Thingiverse that use conical hinges like this if you need examples.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5mEi1.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5mEi1.png&quot; alt=&quot;disassembled conical hinge&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;The above is a disassembled conical hinge from &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5143964&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;thing:5143964 (sturdy infinity cube)&lt;/a&gt; which I split into parts and then arranged the hinged coupling next to the block it fits in.  (Technically I suppose this is a frustrum.  But things that come to a zero diameter pointy tip tend to not print well.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are 4 holes in the linkage, and the whole assembly is printed at once.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28397" LastEditorUserId="28397" LastEditDate="2022-03-22T22:25:52.060" LastActivityDate="2022-03-22T22:25:52.060" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19137" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19126" CreationDate="2022-03-22T02:04:16.060" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Found the problem, apparently these v2.2, v2.2x boards have the &lt;code&gt;HEATER1&lt;/code&gt; MOSFET controlled by pin 7, not pin 9 as in default &lt;code&gt;pins_RAMPS.h&lt;/code&gt;. After setting &lt;code&gt;HEATER0&lt;/code&gt; to use pin 7 everything works as expected.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="33578" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2022-03-22T02:26:50.857" LastActivityDate="2022-03-22T02:26:50.857" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19138" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19129" CreationDate="2022-03-22T13:18:54.823" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Maker's Muse has &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7JhjhgjchfM&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;a video&lt;/a&gt; on how to design hinged objects for printing. It's quite old and might be outdated with regard to materials, slicer functionality, etc. but I think it provides a good background on the topic and a source of ideas. One of the good tips is to look at the abundance of existing hinged designs on Thingiverse and other model sharing sites - that way you can study how they work and test print some before you spend time designing your own thing that might not work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2022-03-22T13:18:54.823" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19139" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18996" CreationDate="2022-03-22T15:20:50.480" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;At least one filament manufacturer, Protopasta, documents their &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.proto-pasta.com/collections/all/products/high-performance-htpla-matte-fiber&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&amp;quot;matte fiber HTPLA&amp;quot;&lt;/a&gt; as &amp;quot;containing plant fibers&amp;quot; but also documents that&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Matte Fiber does NOT require a wear resistant nozzle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I think fred_dot_u's suspicion that the finish is produced by a chemical additive is probably false; it looks like these finishes are created with something similar to wood, but softer than brass so that it's non-abrasive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This also suggests that matte finish filaments (at least the ones that feel paper-like) might have additional benefits beyond cosmetic, such as the fibers helping to resist warping while the extruded material is cooling, which seems to match my experience using it (less sensitive to cooling performance than normal PLA).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2022-03-22T15:20:50.480" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19140" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-03-22T16:27:12.387" Score="0" ViewCount="370" Body="&lt;p&gt;After I have leveled the print bed on all four corners manually, on moving to the center (1) position I still observe that there is no distance between the print bed and the nozzle. The nozzle literally touches the bed at this position. Furthermore, I am also getting nozzle scrapping on the print surface as the thickness of the printed sample increases (1 mm and above). I am printing 5-152 mm(L)x35 mm(W)x3 mm(T) samples using a commercial PLA filament with a 0.1 mm layer height (30 total layers). The raster width is 0.4 mm while the raster angle in all layers is 0/0°. The bed temperature was 0 °C, while the printing temperature was 220 °C. The printing speed was 60 mm/s. The Z-axis compensation value was 0. The slicer I am using is Ultimaker's Cura, while the printer is Creality's Ender 6. How can I rectify this issue and can anyone guide me as to why this is happening?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="33558" LastEditorUserId="33558" LastEditDate="2022-03-23T14:58:40.297" LastActivityDate="2022-03-23T14:58:40.297" Title="No distance between the nozzle and the print bed level at the center (1) position after bed leveling" Tags="|bed-leveling|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19141" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-03-22T17:00:16.437" Score="1" ViewCount="151" Body="&lt;p&gt;I chipped off a bit of my otherwise perfectly usable laptop battery and would like to rebuild it. Consider the following picture:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MZMwC.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MZMwC.png&quot; alt=&quot;chipped off battery connector of a Thinkpad x270 battery&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now compare it to what is visible e.g. &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.batterybuy.co.uk/battery-lenovo/pic_big_Zoom/thinkpadx240-3cell-1.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;. I'm curious if it's possible to point a few cameras from a different angle at the bad and manually operate a typical 3D printer (let's say, Creality Ender 3) so that it's me operating the extruder, not a program. Does it have any chance working on that uneven surface?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="33593" LastActivityDate="2022-03-22T19:09:36.127" Title="Is it possible to manually 3D print on an uneven surface?" Tags="|extrusion|recycling|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19142" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19141" CreationDate="2022-03-22T19:09:36.127" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;In general, &lt;em&gt;maybe&lt;/em&gt;. But you need to have plastics that will bond with each other (so you need to know what the existing surface is) and you need to have a clean unobstructed path for the nozzle to get where it needs to go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In your specific case, this is a battery. Having a 200+ ˚C metal heater block and nozzle tip a few mm away from it, where any wrong move could puncture and short the battery, seems like a really bad idea. I would instead look at recreating the missing part with epoxy resin or something. You could 3D print a mold (note: apply a release agent to the surface!) for this, or you could just glob on more than you need and file the excess off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have a steady hand, a 3D pen might also be an option, but the same concerns about &amp;quot;proximity to battery&amp;quot; as above apply.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2022-03-22T19:09:36.127" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19143" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19144" CreationDate="2022-03-22T19:16:24.250" Score="1" ViewCount="2223" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vqJwF.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vqJwF.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to understand what the infill line distance of 0.4mm signifies. I am printing at 100% infill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="33558" LastActivityDate="2022-03-22T19:32:22.200" Title="Infill line distance at 100% infill density" Tags="|infill|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19144" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19143" CreationDate="2022-03-22T19:32:22.200" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Presumably your nozzle width (and thereby your default line width) is 0.4 mm. The infill line distance of 0.4 mm means that the centers of lines are spaced 0.4 mm apart from each other, so that they exactly touch their neighbors at their width (0.2 mm from the center in either direction).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2022-03-22T19:32:22.200" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19146" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19140" CreationDate="2022-03-23T03:36:35.500" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would think your bed isn't flat. My magnetic bed has high spots in a couple of places.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another cause could be that you're just levelling once. Sometimes you need to go around again and check the levelling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31811" LastActivityDate="2022-03-23T03:36:35.500" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19147" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-03-23T12:51:47.220" Score="1" ViewCount="378" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a brand new Two Trees Bluer Plus 3D printer. Default, it has a 3DTouch probe installed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WU7rQ.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WU7rQ.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Printer is broken now, I couldn't use it even for a week...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In middle of a long print, our home fuse blew. I am not sure because of the printer or not. I open the fuse and printer cant start. It was stuck at restart cycle and keeps restarting. I cut the power and check for stepper drivers. They look fine. Install them again and restart the printer. Then magic smoke appeared and all drivers are dead. But printer can reach menus.&#xA;First I buy new drivers and looking for if the board is salvageable or not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I installed new drivers, the printer would start up, but no movement of the 3DTouch probe at startup. Its blue and red lights are constantly on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can manually move X, Z and E, but Y moved a little after that it became unresponsive (I tried to swap drivers, but always Y seems problematic, the drivers looks fine) .&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The 3DTouch probe is not working so it can't home Z. Y cannot be homed either but I can home the X-axis. Bed and nozzle look okay; they heat up correctly. There was no error message on the printer screen. Two trees uses a custom Repetier version. This is Pronterface's error message:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Connecting...&#xA;MKS Robin Nano 1.0.0&#xA;echo: Last Updated: 2017-12-25 12:00 | Author: (none, default config)&#xA;echo:Compiled: Jan  8 2021&#xA;echo: Free Memory: 4396  PlannerBufferBytes: 1344&#xA;echo:V47 stored settings retrieved (1140 bytes; crc 10556)&#xA;echo:  G21    ; Units in mm&#xA;echo:Filament settings: Disabled&#xA;echo:  M200 D3.00&#xA;echo:  M200 T1 D3.00&#xA;echo:  M200 D0&#xA;echo:Steps per unit:&#xA;echo:  M92 X160.00 Y160.00 Z800.00&#xA;echo:  M92 T0 E430.00&#xA;  M92 T1 E800.00&#xA;echo:Maximum feedrates (units/s):&#xA;echo:  M203 X100.00 Y100.00 Z4.00&#xA;echo:  M203 T0 E70.00&#xA;  M203 T1 E70.00&#xA;echo:Maximum Acceleration (units/s2):&#xA;echo:  M201 X500 Y500 Z100&#xA;echo:  M201 T0 E1000&#xA;  M201 T1 E1000&#xA;echo:Acceleration (units/s2): P&amp;lt;print_accel&amp;gt; R&amp;lt;retract_accel&amp;gt; T&amp;lt;travel_accel&amp;gt;&#xA;echo:  M204 P500.00 R500.00 T1000.00&#xA;echo:Advanced: S&amp;lt;min_feedrate&amp;gt; T&amp;lt;min_travel_feedrate&amp;gt; B&amp;lt;min_segment_time_us&amp;gt; X&amp;lt;max_xy_jerk&amp;gt; Z&amp;lt;max_z_jerk&amp;gt; E&amp;lt;max_e_jerk&amp;gt;&#xA;echo:  M205 S0.00 T0.00 B20000 X10.00 Y10.00 Z0.40 E5.00&#xA;echo:Home offset:&#xA;echo:  M206 X0.00 Y0.00 Z0.00&#xA;echo:Hotend offsets:&#xA;echo:  M218 T1 X-20.00 Y-5.00&#xA;echo:  M420 S0&#xA;echo:Endstop adjustment:&#xA;echo:  M666&#xA;echo:PID settings:&#xA;echo:  M301 P22.20 I1.08 D114.00&#xA;echo:Z-Probe Offset (mm):&#xA;echo:  M851 Z-2.80&#xA;Error:STOP called because of BLTouch error - restart with M999&#xA;Error:Printer stopped due to errors. Fix the error and use M999 to restart. (Temperature is reset. Set it after restarting)&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="33598" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2022-03-23T18:49:04.263" LastActivityDate="2022-03-23T18:49:04.263" Title="BLTouch error on pronterface, nothing connected to the board" Tags="|troubleshooting|3dtouch|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19150" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-03-24T02:52:12.607" Score="1" ViewCount="284" Body="&lt;p&gt;If so, please guide me through the process. I want to modify the G-Code to calibrate the extruder. I suspect my extruder is over extruding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="33558" LastActivityDate="2022-03-24T02:52:12.607" Title="Can repetier host be connected to Ender 6 3D printer?" Tags="|repetier-host|creality-ender-6|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19152" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-03-24T21:16:13.600" Score="0" ViewCount="591" Body="&lt;p&gt;Microswiss does not mention Ender 6 to be a machine that is compatible with its direct drive. However, I have landed myself in a position where the printer I am using currently has a micro swiss direct drive. The printer was printing the bunny etc. default prints in the creality SD card just fine but I am getting nozzle scrapping the print surface when I print 5 152(L) mm x 35(W) mm x 3(T) mm prints with 100% infill. Could the incompatibility between the direct drive extruder and the Creality Ender 6 be the cause of eventual nozzle scrapping (rubbing) the print surface as the part's thickness increases? I have tried all sorts of settings. Increased/decreased bed temperatures (I am using PLA filament), adjusted the bed level, Z-offset. Nothing seems to be working.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="33558" LastActivityDate="2022-03-25T08:42:18.043" Title="Micro swiss direct drive for Ender 6" Tags="|print-quality|creality-ender-6|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19153" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19155" CreationDate="2022-03-25T02:06:58.490" Score="0" ViewCount="184" Body="&lt;p&gt;While this is not directly 3D &lt;strong&gt;printing&lt;/strong&gt; related, I intend to use my 3D printer (Labist's ET40) to shake air bubbles off of a resin casting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I printed parts, made a mould of them in silicon, then cast a copy with resin. All works, great looks and all! Except... bubbles. Especially at ceiling parts that are away from the gas hole.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried a few different techniques to get rid of bubbles (heating, cooling, release agent, handshaking, high drop pouring, a mix of the above, different hole positions in the mould), and some I can't due to price restriction (different resin, vacuum removal degassing), but I was explained by an expert I could just have a machine do some low amplitude, high frequency shakin' for me. Again they proposed a specific machinery or DIY project, but I believe I already have the tool for it in the shape of a 3D printer's axes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a way to create a G-code that would simply move at relatively high speed back and forth on the Y- and X-axis for, say 15 minutes? I'm sure there would need to be some variation to ensure the temporarily repurposed machine doesn't self-destruct in one way or another.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23750" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2022-03-25T04:12:22.560" LastActivityDate="2022-03-25T08:05:16.387" Title="G-code to get the 3D printer to shake resin bubbles off from a casting" Tags="|g-code|mechanics|axis|labists-et4|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19154" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-03-25T08:03:49.500" Score="4" ViewCount="568" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have recently, in anticipation of printing carbon-fiber-reinforced nylon filament (Polymaker PA6-CF) on my Prusa i3 MK3S, built a filament drybox. It is made out of a large aluminum equipment enclosure which I had spare, every seam, rivet, hinge mount, foot screw, sealing lip, etc of which has been sealed with copious amounts of high-quality silicone sealant (this is condensation-curing silicone, so it does release a small amount of moisture as it cures, but it has been in here several days and is about as cured as it gets now). The lip around the edge of is clamped hard against a rubber sealing ring, which I have cleaned meticulously, when the lid of the box is closed and latched. In short, it is, by 3D printer drybox standards, unusually well-sealed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/D7xhB.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/D7xhB.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;The exterior of the box&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xJpod.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xJpod.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Inside&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;(yes, I know my silicone work is a mess, but let nobody say I missed a spot!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For drying, I have poured two pounds of orange self-indicating silica gel, freshly regenerated, directly into the bottom of the box, exposing the maximum possible surface area (as opposed to having it in a container).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Humidity is monitored by a DHT22 temperature/humidity sensor, connected to an external microcontroller used for data reporting. The wire passthrough is a 1mm diameter hole in a custom 3D-printed passthrough (held in by a printed nut) with 3 pieces of magnet wire running through it, sealed with glue from both ends. I really doubt it's leaking through this either. The datasheet for this sensor indicates it should be accurate even at low humidities, and is accurate to +/- ~2.5% RH over most of its range and does not exceed +/- 5% anywhere. Per the datasheet, its accuracy should far-exceed that of the little battery-powered digital hygrometers many drybox builds seem to use.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3ca5x.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3ca5x.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Despite all of this, per the DHT22, it only reaches between 16.1 and 16.5% RH. As I understand it, a well-sealed drybox with well-exposed desiccant should be capable of better than this - I've seen sub-10% reported online. It's also worryingly close to the 20% maximum storage RH of the filament, per its TDS. What's going on here? My only real theories are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A lack of internal air circulation has resulted in stratification, with denser dry air close to the desiccant at the bottom and damper air at the top where the humidity sensor is located - this might be fixed with an internal circulation fan?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;My sensor is not as accurate as its datasheet claims&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The desiccant is somehow defective&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;My expectations are unrealistic and 16% RH is normal and acceptable performance for such a drybox&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having tried most of the obvious things already (seal the box better, add more desiccant, increase desiccant surface area, let the box settle over days, install a high-quality sensor, ensure nothing inside the box is releasing absorbed moisture, seal the box even better), I'm beginning to expect it's the latter. Is it acceptable to remove my nylon from its sealed packaging and begin storing it in the drybox with this performance? Have others had success with nylon stored at 16% RH (as opposed to the sub-10% RH I've sometimes seen people talk about dryboxes reaching)? Are reported sub-10% readings for other dryboxes on the internet even accurate, or do the cheap little battery-powered hygrometers most DIY dryboxes use read inaccurately low at low humidities?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="33615" LastActivityDate="2022-03-28T12:25:40.587" Title="Humidity sensor says drybox isn't that dry - are my expectations unrealistic or is something wrong?" Tags="|filament-quality|nylon|storage|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19155" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19153" CreationDate="2022-03-25T08:05:16.387" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;What you suggest is pretty straightforward with g-code. One would expect to have the item secured properly to the print bed. The printer you've indicated has movement only in the Y direction, which means your g-code should reflect that movement only. X-direction movement means the head will travel left and right and have nearly zero effect on the item. This also applies to Z-movement of the carriage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Marlin (a common firmware) &lt;a href=&quot;https://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M808.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;web page&lt;/a&gt; lists a specific g-code for repeat:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Repeat Marker command is used to define regions of a G-code file&#xA;that will be repeated during SD printing. A marker is first set with&#xA;M808 L[count], and later in the file a plain M808 command is used&#xA;count down and loop. (By default up to 10 start markers can be&#xA;nested.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In slicer software put M808 L to the “Start G-code” and M808 to the&#xA;“End G-code.” But this command is not the only requirement. Before&#xA;starting each whole object it’s important to actually clear the print&#xA;area of obstacles and to reset the coordinate system with G92 or G28,&#xA;so this command is best used with belt printers or other systems with&#xA;automatic print removal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From a &lt;a href=&quot;https://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/G000-G001.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;different page&lt;/a&gt; on the same site:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The G0 and G1 commands add a linear move to the queue to be performed&#xA;after all previous moves are completed. These commands yield control&#xA;back to the command parser as soon as the move is queued, but they may&#xA;delay the command parser while awaiting a slot in the queue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A linear move traces a straight line from one point to another,&#xA;ensuring that the specified axes will arrive simultaneously at the&#xA;given coordinates (by linear interpolation). The speed may change over&#xA;time following an acceleration curve, according to the acceleration&#xA;and jerk settings of the given axes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More details specific to this command are also on the linked page. A simple example of a movement g-code:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The most basic move sets a feedrate and moves the tool to the given&#xA;position.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;G0 X12   ; move to 12mm on the X axis G0 F1500 ; set the feedrate to&#xA;1500 mm/min G1 X90.6 Y13.8 ; move to 90.6mm on the X axis and 13.8mm&#xA;on the Y axis&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are some caveats related with feedrates. Consider the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;G1 F1500 ; set the feedrate to 1500 mm/min G92 E0 G1 X50 Y25.3 E22.4 ;&#xA;move while extruding&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the above example the feedrate is set to 1500 mm/min, then the tool&#xA;is moved 50mm on the X axis and 25.3mm on the Y axis while extruding&#xA;22.4mm of filament between the two points.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;G1 F1500 G92 E0 G1 X50 Y25.3 E22.4 F3000&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, in the above example, we set a feedrate of 1500 mm/min on&#xA;line 1 then do the move described above, accelerating to a feedrate of&#xA;3000 mm/min (if possible). The extrusion will accelerate along with&#xA;the X and Y movement, so everything stays synchronized.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Consider to limit your acceleration based on the weight of the secured item. You would not be worried about precision, but skipped steps due to weight could bring the bed travel to the physical limit stops, causing stepper grinding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastActivityDate="2022-03-25T08:05:16.387" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19156" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19152" CreationDate="2022-03-25T08:42:18.043" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;After printing the printed filament level should be touching the nozzle (unless the filament shrinks considerably when the temperature decreases, e.g. when printing very big prints).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is problematic is if the nozzle digs into already deposited layers when the printer over-extrudes, this has nothing to do with extruder compatibility, but with tuning the extrusion process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Especially when printing 100 % infill, there is no room for the over-extrusion to go to than upwards in the infill region and outside at the walls. You need to further tune the extrusion process. First make sure the commanded extruded length is the actual extruded length (see &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6483/how-do-i-calibrate-the-extruder-of-my-printer&quot;&gt;How do I calibrate the extruder of my printer?&lt;/a&gt;), but further fine tuning may be required afterwards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;E.g. for one of the printers I have designed, the flow modifier in the slicer is set to 98 % in combination with the calibrated distance; it produce far better quality prints with this modifier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2022-03-25T08:42:18.043" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19158" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15131" CreationDate="2022-03-25T15:08:38.657" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I picked up a used Ender 3 Pro, which needed a &lt;em&gt;lot&lt;/em&gt; of work.  I discovered the same annoyance, the extruder &amp;quot;gear&amp;quot; was press-fitted, and the shaft was too short for the manual add-on wheel.  I had a look-alike motor (with the same connector) in my parts bin, so after some effort&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;, I removed the gear and installed it on the new motor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once in place, I have plenty of shaft to mount the handwheel.  One additional comment, the connector was the same, but the wiring was not.  I had to ohm-out the windings and move a couple pins in the female connector.  Runs great now, and all is wheel (pun?).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;BTW, I saw someone above using a pair of wrenches to remove the gear.  If I understand what they're doing, it's likely to damage the bearings of the motor.  Always best to support the shaft and never use the bearings as something to press against.  My 2c.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; I mimicked the effect of a gear puller. Using a small arbor press I supported the gear with a cross bridge made of two short pieces of 1&amp;quot; dia. dowel (as the pillars on each side) and a pair of 1/4 inch square steel rods to span the distance under the gear. one on each side of the motor shaft. The motor is now dangling in free air, supported by the gear. I then pressed down on the end of the motor shaft, eventually the motor broke free and dropped, leaving the gear on top of the rods&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="33623" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2022-03-29T15:41:40.320" LastActivityDate="2022-03-29T15:41:40.320" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19159" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19106" CreationDate="2022-03-25T23:23:19.197" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're using the same RTD for both tests you can rule that out as a source of the problem. At this point I'd suggest, A) thoroughly scrubbing all the  machine parameters and software settings for something that's limiting temperature or duty cycle, and, B) buying or borrowing an O'scope to see what the board is really putting out.  Connecting the heater to the bed heat pins will be limited to however high the bed heat can be set so may not tell you much. I don't know if it's possible to swap hot end and bed outputs in software. If so, I don't know how.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="33030" LastActivityDate="2022-03-25T23:23:19.197" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19161" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18584" CreationDate="2022-03-26T11:24:22.407" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Having moved the probe up and down gently to ensure it wasn't catching, I restarted the machine and have not been troubled since.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="32337" LastActivityDate="2022-03-26T11:24:22.407" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19162" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-03-26T13:42:55.163" Score="2" ViewCount="267" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been trying to learn Blender as an additional tool for 3D printing (to prepare more organic or freeform models that don't lend themselves to a CAD style workflow I'm more used to), and one point of confusion I've hit is that Blender's default unit is &lt;em&gt;meters&lt;/em&gt;, not millimeters. Apparently in older versions its default was an abstract unspecified &amp;quot;units&amp;quot; with metric-like base-10 grid, but no inherent association to physical scale, but now the default is &amp;quot;metric&amp;quot; with meters as the unit. I've found some tutorials &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZI49VIcISaw&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;such as this one&lt;/a&gt; for switching to millimeters, but it requires making a number of changes that I'm not sure are in line with what folks consider &amp;quot;best practices&amp;quot; for &amp;quot;modeling for 3D printing with Blender&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any consensus on the right way to do this? Are there reasons I should prefer to switch back to the abstract &amp;quot;units&amp;quot;, and just treat them as millimeters, versus using &amp;quot;metric&amp;quot; but switching the base unit to &amp;quot;0.0001&amp;quot; (maybe numerical precision reasons?).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know this question is only borderline on-topic, but I think it is relevant as I'm looking for what the prevailing practice &lt;em&gt;in communities using Blender as a tool for 3D printing&lt;/em&gt;, not for opinions of a larger Blender community.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2022-04-04T12:09:00.823" Title="Best practices for handling units for 3D printing with Blender" Tags="|3d-models|blender|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19163" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19170" CreationDate="2022-03-26T19:52:42.177" Score="1" ViewCount="5250" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently started printing with an Ender 3 V2. I got a few good prints out of it, and then I have had nothing but issues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically, I can start a print, and after about 10-15 minutes, the temperature will decline from 200 °C to 195 °C, triggering a thermal runaway alert, (low temp), and then cancel the print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's an example of the hotend temp profile:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3nkiW.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Screenshot of OctoPrint's temperature graph&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3nkiW.png&quot; alt=&quot;Screenshot of OctoPrint's temperature graph&quot; title=&quot;Screenshot of OctoPrint's temperature graph&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have tried testing the hotend thermistor, running PID autotune (multiple times, with up to 10 cycles), replacing the thermistor, running directly from an SD card (instead of OctoPrint).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both thermistors worked, the first one read 108k Ω at room temp, and a new one is at 113.5k Ω at room temp.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm running firmware v1.0.4 on a stock v4.2.2 board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One thing that did seem to save a print was that when I noticed the print temp dropping, I paused it for about 30 seconds and then resumed, and then the temp recovered up from 198-200 °C for a bit. But that's obviously not a solution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm lost, don't know what else to test/calibrate, any ideas?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="33635" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2022-03-26T20:10:27.087" LastActivityDate="2022-08-01T01:41:53.377" Title="Ender 3 v2 temperature drop" Tags="|creality-ender-3|temperature|thermal-runaway|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19164" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19162" CreationDate="2022-03-27T18:52:16.697" Score="3" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Make sure to set the scale properly for your use case!&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In CAD, you define your measurement space in either Inch or in Millimeter units, and that is your grid. In blender, the native unit is the meter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This can be easily converted in exporting (remember to set it to scale!), but it is best to just set the measurement scale to actually match what you design: if you want to design a 5 mm hole, set your scale to Millimeters and make sure you export in millimeters. If you want to design in meters (maybe you design a building), then work in meters, and set your export scale in the end so that 1 meter actually is represented as 1 meter - or rather as 1000 millimeters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/7561/8884&quot;&gt;The STL in the end will not know the difference&lt;/a&gt;: it all is defined in scales of &lt;em&gt;unitary units&lt;/em&gt;, and it doesn't even know if it was originally designed in meters, inch or angström. The typical slicer expects the unit to be either millimeters or inch, so any scaling of the exported model that does not result in units equivalent to 1 mm or 24.5 mm is bad procedure - converting between these two types is just scaling the model by 2450%.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Make sure to design closed manifolds made up of triangles!&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When working with blender, it is very easy to leave the item in a shape that contains multiple intersecting, non-manifold surfaces and areas of inverted surfaces. While &lt;em&gt;interecting shells&lt;/em&gt; is not a problem (the slicers can handle those by unionizing the item), the intersection usually covers up the non-manifold areas, making them hard to spot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a result, before finalizing your project, I suggest follow this procedure:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In Blender, turn on the visual for the normals of surfaces. If an area does not look like a hedgehog after that, the normals in that area are reversed and you need to flip the surfaces there or re-mesh it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Triangulate the surface using the triangulate modifier. This is to spot artifacts from conversion to STL early and be able to fix them: STL only knows triangles, while blender knows &lt;em&gt;bent&lt;/em&gt; n-gons.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Add a new object. A cube with side length 1.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do a test export to STL with scale 1, which also contains the 1-unit cube as an extra shell.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Import the model into a software such as meshmixer, that has a command to separate shells.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Separate the item to all shells. In Meshmixer this is in analyze, separate shells.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;After separating the shells, measure your 1-unit cube. If it is not 1 mm, calculate your scaling factor. It should be a multiple of 10.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Next, you should check each shell for gaps or other errors. In meshmixer, the automatic analyze feature points to these areas with red, blue and magenta lines.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fix the marked errors in blender, then return to the test export. This time use the proper scaling factor. Repeat until no errors remain.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2022-04-04T12:09:00.823" LastActivityDate="2022-04-04T12:09:00.823" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19165" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19154" CreationDate="2022-03-28T07:35:24.003" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Alright, there were some good suggestion in the comments, and I gave them a look, but I think I solved this myself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think, after a lot more testing, that it was some combination of stratification and a faulty sensor. I managed to find four more DHT22s with which I could test the box, and found that the sensor I had been using consistently read ~16% RH where others would read 6-9%. Additionally, I did some tests with the sensor at different heights in the box, which were somewhat inconclusive, so I attached a fan to the sensor's power to circulate the air inside the box, to avoid stratification if that was occurring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Across my three best-agreeing sensors, with the fan (which I'm still not certain provides a major benefit, but certainly makes sense if stratification is assumed to be a problem), I'm now seeing values that seem to be around 6% to 8% RH depending on the sensor (this amount of difference between them is to be expected per the datasheet, 6% vs 16% is not), much more in line with the performance I would expect from what I have seen online. Time to finally unwrap the nylon, I guess.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I won't mark this answer as the solution until I see this performance maintained and get good nylon prints out of it, but for now, I think this is probably most of the way to an answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="33615" LastActivityDate="2022-03-28T07:35:24.003" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19167" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19154" CreationDate="2022-03-28T12:25:40.587" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Track humidity graph over days (one measurement every 3 hours is fine). Be careful that polling the sensor too often may warm it up and cause inaccuracies, the temperature dependence is quite strong. Also, you may need to poll twice at 5 s interval and discard the first reading if you want more accurate values.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the increase in humidity over a month is linear, the sensor is ok and you have a small leak. If the increase follows a non-linear curve, then the sensor is not reliable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I can tell you already: the sensor is &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.kandrsmith.org/RJS/Misc/Hygrometers/calib_many.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;not that much reliable&lt;/a&gt;. Use a Bosch BME280, which is reliable. I use a Xiaomi temperature/humidity sensor and it is reliable down to 1% humidity, which I achieve after drying the silica. Then it goes linearly up to 10-12% in three months time, when I dry the silica again. I use an IKEA Samla box with foam tape between lid and box.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, the silica that way does not expose the max surface: make rather some pouches using kitchen paper and put them vertical, or the upper layers will shield the lower beads.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For info, you may already know it: nylon filament must be dried in the oven upon opening, it's not dry enough straight out of the factory. Also, a dry box will not suck out humidity in any reasonable time, so it's only useful to maintain dryness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2338" LastActivityDate="2022-03-28T12:25:40.587" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19168" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19162" CreationDate="2022-03-29T12:01:44.057" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It doesn't matter, you scale it in the slicer or elsewhere. You're not going to slice the STL file in Blender. You'll probably need to do more work to get things print ready outside blender anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So when I use blender I don't even bother checking what units it's using. I don't use it for parts design or tech drawing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31811" LastActivityDate="2022-03-29T12:01:44.057" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19169" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-03-29T18:52:08.057" Score="0" ViewCount="308" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a warped glass bed on an Ender 6 that I recently bought. I want to replace this bed. However, the dimensions in which Ender 6 print bed comes (250x250x400 mm) are not available for purchase on sites like Amazon or Creality. Can anyone guide me about which bed I should buy?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="33558" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2022-03-29T19:57:57.033" LastActivityDate="2022-03-30T17:51:26.907" Title="Glass bed for Ender 6" Tags="|glass-bed|creality-ender-6|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19170" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19163" CreationDate="2022-03-29T21:35:25.397" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well, this was a setup error. I am amazed it worked at all, but the reason this was happening was that the power supply was set to 230 V from the factory.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am in the US, so the household current is 115 V. Once I switched the voltage, the printer has been very reliable, and I am not seeing heat drop-offs anymore!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="33635" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2022-03-29T22:42:25.357" LastActivityDate="2022-03-29T22:42:25.357" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19171" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19169" CreationDate="2022-03-30T09:28:43.290" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you just want to replace the glass, then you &lt;em&gt;could&lt;/em&gt; go to any local glazing/window store and ask for a sheet of glass to be cut to the appropriate size.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It will probably be a &lt;em&gt;lot&lt;/em&gt; cheaper than a glass sheet marketed as specific for 3D printers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are just one or two caveats:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Whilst the type of glass is (probably) unimportant (&lt;em&gt;if you aren't using a heated bed&lt;/em&gt;) ensure that the sheet of glass that you get your bed cut from is &lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;flat&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt;. Ask the merchant for glass sheeting that is specifically made as flat as possible, and isn't already warped or with defects.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you have a heated bed then you will (most likely) require heat proof glass&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;, i.e. &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Borosilicate_glass&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;borosilicate glass&lt;/a&gt;, one example of which is Pyrex. This may be not as easy to source as &amp;quot;normal&amp;quot; glass for windows, but it's still worth asking at your local store.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that if the printer was recently purchased then it should still be under warranty and you could ask the supplier to send a new glass sheet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Footnote&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; You might (in all likelyhood) get away with just using normal glass plate, in junction with a heated bed, some glass is quite resiliant - it depends upon the quality and/or thickness (re. heat dissipation). Also, when taking into account the lower cost of normal glass, you might  not worry about any potential cracking and/or warping. However, if you prefer to err upon the side of caution, then use borosilicate glass.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4762" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2022-03-30T17:51:26.907" LastActivityDate="2022-03-30T17:51:26.907" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19172" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19174" CreationDate="2022-03-30T11:43:51.800" Score="1" ViewCount="457" Body="&lt;p&gt;Prints on an Ender 3 Pro using a standard printing profile results in layer shifting or over extrusion.  I can’t figure out what the problem is.  I tried reducing the flow as well as print speed but nothing really changes. Any thoughts on the  XYZ cube test print below?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zq4q8.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;3D printed calibration cube with printing errors&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zq4q8.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;3D printed calibration cube with printing errors&quot; title=&quot;3D printed calibration cube with printing errors&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25913" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2022-03-30T13:01:49.923" LastActivityDate="2022-03-30T14:42:45.023" Title="Why layer shifting prints on Ender 3 Pro?" Tags="|creality-ender-3|print-quality|layer-shifting|overextrusion|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19173" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19177" CreationDate="2022-03-30T12:01:46.543" Score="1" ViewCount="5630" Body="&lt;p&gt;I love the idea of the XYZ test cube to help diagnose my bad prints.   I’m able to find online very common print issues however am looking for a resource that is more extensive. Often I run into a situation where my issue is not covered.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would be great if there was a resource that had pictures of numerous bad or less than ideal XYZ prints with cause and fix for each. I’m thinking of more than 50 examples.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know of such a resource?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aogym.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aogym.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;My current unknown bad XYZ print &quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25913" LastActivityDate="2022-03-31T06:11:20.623" Title="Is there an extensive XYZ Cube diagnosis resource?" Tags="|print-quality|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19174" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19172" CreationDate="2022-03-30T14:42:45.023" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This isn't what folks usually refer to as &amp;quot;layer shifts&amp;quot; - those are generally permanent (for the rest of the print) and don't correct unless you get an equal opposite-direction shift, and are caused by things like a stepper motor skipping a step, a belt skipping a tooth, or the print surface shifting on the bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your problem looks more like excess play in the positioning, particularly on the X axis, likely due to a very loose belt. If so, it will manifest differently in different layers due to the geometry and the last direction of motion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's also possible that it's Z wobble, where the toolhead experiences a Z-coordinate-dependent displacement in the X and Y directions due to irregularities in the Z motion system. This could be a bent or nicked lead screw or nut, flat spots or other damage to the V roller wheels, or debris on the aluminum V slot extrusions that the V wheels are rolling on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The fact that the top layer came out very clean and consistent makes me actually suspect it's the latter - some sort of Z wobble.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2022-03-30T14:42:45.023" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19175" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-03-30T20:06:40.933" Score="1" ViewCount="44" Body="&lt;p&gt;I own a Balco rebranding of the Duplicator i3+ and after having replaced the plastic driving gearbox with a metallic one, it appears that for some reason the extrusion temperature became unstable and I suppose I should to re-calibrate the parameters of the PID.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I have been using this machine stand alone and I do not have a computer nearby nor the space to put one. And since it has a tactile screen, it won't show me the result of the gcode execution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know of a manual procedure to calibrate a PID in order to at least stop the temperature swings ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19706" LastActivityDate="2022-03-30T20:06:40.933" Title="Is there somewhere a procedure to manually calibrate the PID?" Tags="|calibration|pid|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19176" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19173" CreationDate="2022-03-31T02:44:28.580" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;One of the sites that I have gone to for identifying problems is All3DP.com's page &amp;quot;&lt;a href=&quot;https://all3dp.com/1/common-3d-printing-problems-troubleshooting-3d-printer-issues/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;3D Printing Troubleshooting All Common Problems&lt;/a&gt;&amp;quot;. Here are the FDM and SLA issues they cover:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;FDM 3D Printing Problems&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Nothing is Printing&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://all3dp.com/1/common-3d-printing-problems-troubleshooting-3d-printer-issues/#out-of-filament&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Out of Filament&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://all3dp.com/1/common-3d-printing-problems-troubleshooting-3d-printer-issues/#nozzle-too-close-to-print-bed&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Nozzle Too Close to Print Bed&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://all3dp.com/1/common-3d-printing-problems-troubleshooting-3d-printer-issues/#blocked-nozzle&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Blocked Nozzle&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://all3dp.com/1/common-3d-printing-problems-troubleshooting-3d-printer-issues/#print-head-misses-the-bed&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Print Head Misses the Bed&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://all3dp.com/1/common-3d-printing-problems-troubleshooting-3d-printer-issues/#snapped-filament&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Snapped Filament&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://all3dp.com/1/common-3d-printing-problems-troubleshooting-3d-printer-issues/#stripped-filament&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Stripped Filament&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;My Print Failed&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://all3dp.com/1/common-3d-printing-problems-troubleshooting-3d-printer-issues/#extrusion-stopped-mid-print&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Extrusion Stopped Mid-Print&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://all3dp.com/1/common-3d-printing-problems-troubleshooting-3d-printer-issues/#print-doesnt-stick-to-print-bed&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Print Doesn't Stick to Print Bed&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://all3dp.com/1/common-3d-printing-problems-troubleshooting-3d-printer-issues/#supports-fell-apart&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Supports Fell Apart&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;My Print Looks Bad&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://all3dp.com/1/common-3d-printing-problems-troubleshooting-3d-printer-issues/#first-layer-is-messy&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;First Layer is Messy&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://all3dp.com/1/common-3d-printing-problems-troubleshooting-3d-printer-issues/#print-bows-out-at-bottom-elephants-foot&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Print Bows Out at Bottom (Elephant's Foot)&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://all3dp.com/1/common-3d-printing-problems-troubleshooting-3d-printer-issues/#print-edges-are-bending-warping&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Print Edges are Bending (Warping)&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://all3dp.com/1/common-3d-printing-problems-troubleshooting-3d-printer-issues/#infill-looks-messy-and-incomplete&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Infill Looks Messy and Incomplete&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://all3dp.com/1/common-3d-printing-problems-troubleshooting-3d-printer-issues/#gaps-between-infill-and-outer-wall&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Gaps Between Infill and Outer Wall&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://all3dp.com/1/common-3d-printing-problems-troubleshooting-3d-printer-issues/#infill-is-visible-from-the-outside&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Infill is Visible from the Outside&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://all3dp.com/1/common-3d-printing-problems-troubleshooting-3d-printer-issues/#cracks-have-appeared-in-tall-objects&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Cracks Have Appeared in Tall Objects&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://all3dp.com/1/common-3d-printing-problems-troubleshooting-3d-printer-issues/#layers-dont-line-up-well&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Layers Don't Line Up Well&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://all3dp.com/1/common-3d-printing-problems-troubleshooting-3d-printer-issues/#some-layers-are-missing&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Some Layers are Missing&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://all3dp.com/1/common-3d-printing-problems-troubleshooting-3d-printer-issues/#print-leans-when-it-shouldnt&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Print Leans When it Shouldn't&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://all3dp.com/1/common-3d-printing-problems-troubleshooting-3d-printer-issues/#overhangs-are-messy&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Overhangs are Messy&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://all3dp.com/1/common-3d-printing-problems-troubleshooting-3d-printer-issues/#surface-areas-beneath-supports-are-rough&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Surface Areas Beneath Supports are Rough&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://all3dp.com/1/common-3d-printing-problems-troubleshooting-3d-printer-issues/#print-is-unusually-weak-looks-wrong-non-manifold-edges&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Print is Unusually Weak/Looks Wrong (Non-Manifold Edges)&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://all3dp.com/1/common-3d-printing-problems-troubleshooting-3d-printer-issues/#fine-detail-not-printing-correctly&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Fine Detail Not Printing Correctly&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://all3dp.com/1/common-3d-printing-problems-troubleshooting-3d-printer-issues/#ripples-and-echoes-in-print-ringing&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Ripples and &amp;quot;Echoes&amp;quot; in Print (Ringing)&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://all3dp.com/1/common-3d-printing-problems-troubleshooting-3d-printer-issues/#diagonal-scars-on-print&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Diagonal Scars on Print&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://all3dp.com/1/common-3d-printing-problems-troubleshooting-3d-printer-issues/#print-looks-stringy-and-droopy-over-extrusion&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Print Looks Stringy and Droopy (Over-Extrusion)&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://all3dp.com/1/common-3d-printing-problems-troubleshooting-3d-printer-issues/#print-layers-look-uniformly-thin-weak-under-extrusion&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Print Layers Look Uniformly Thin/Weak (Under-Extrusion)&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://all3dp.com/1/common-3d-printing-problems-troubleshooting-3d-printer-issues/#print-looks-melted-and-deformed&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Print Looks Melted and Deformed&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://all3dp.com/1/common-3d-printing-problems-troubleshooting-3d-printer-issues/#pits-and-hollows-in-top-layer-pillowing&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Pits and Hollows in Top Layer (Pillowing)&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://all3dp.com/1/common-3d-printing-problems-troubleshooting-3d-printer-issues/#web-like-strings-cover-the-print-stringing&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Web-like Strings Cover the Print (Stringing)&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://all3dp.com/1/common-3d-printing-problems-troubleshooting-3d-printer-issues/#print-has-lost-dimensional-accuracy&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Print Has Lost Dimensional Accuracy&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://all3dp.com/1/common-3d-printing-problems-troubleshooting-3d-printer-issues/#print-offset-in-some-places&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Print Offset in Some Places&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://all3dp.com/1/common-3d-printing-problems-troubleshooting-3d-printer-issues/#bridges-are-messy&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Bridges are Messy&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Something Else&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://all3dp.com/1/common-3d-printing-problems-troubleshooting-3d-printer-issues/#print-is-stuck-to-print-bed&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Print is Stuck to Print Bed&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;   &#xA;&lt;h2&gt;SLA 3D Printing Problems&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Nothing is Printing&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://all3dp.com/1/common-3d-printing-problems-troubleshooting-3d-printer-issues/#resin-too-cold&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Resin too Cold&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://all3dp.com/1/common-3d-printing-problems-troubleshooting-3d-printer-issues/#printing-too-fast&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Printing too Fast&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://all3dp.com/1/common-3d-printing-problems-troubleshooting-3d-printer-issues/#underpowered-laser&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Underpowered Laser&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;My Print Failed&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://all3dp.com/1/common-3d-printing-problems-troubleshooting-3d-printer-issues/#prints-not-adhering-to-print-plate&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Prints Not Adhering to Print Plate&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://all3dp.com/1/common-3d-printing-problems-troubleshooting-3d-printer-issues/#a-section-of-the-print-supports-detached-or-moved&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;A Section of the Print/Supports Detached or Moved&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;My Print Looks Bad&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://all3dp.com/1/common-3d-printing-problems-troubleshooting-3d-printer-issues/#layers-have-separated-delamination&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Layers Have Separated (Delamination)&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://all3dp.com/1/common-3d-printing-problems-troubleshooting-3d-printer-issues/#small-fins-and-disks-attached-to-print-ragging&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Small Fins and Disks Attached to Print (Ragging)&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23193" LastActivityDate="2022-03-31T02:44:28.580" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19177" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19173" CreationDate="2022-03-31T06:11:20.623" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;An XYZ cube is a calibration test for dimensional accuracy testing, it is not meant for extensive trouble shooting. Therefor, there are no specific resources for cube irregularities, the regular resources can be used for trouble shooting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of the better resources for troubleshooting print problems is found at &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Simplify3D&lt;/a&gt; or one at &lt;a href=&quot;https://all3dp.com/1/common-3d-printing-problems-troubleshooting-3d-printer-issues/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;All3DP&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Do note that the dimensions in X and Y and Z are based on mechanical ratio's of the steppers with their pulleys or threaded rods, you can calculate the amount of steps required for the dimensional accuracy. It is only necessary to adjust this if e.g. the pulley is of a different diameter than the specification (as in poor quality dimensional pulley accuracy). In the basis you should not adjust the steps per mm based on small sized calibration cubes.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2022-03-31T06:11:20.623" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19178" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19179" CreationDate="2022-03-31T21:52:01.607" Score="0" ViewCount="62" Body="&lt;p&gt;So, I've gotten the G-code to work regarding the waiting 10 seconds as I wanted it to. However, does anyone know if there is any G-code that exists that will allow me to manually set the height of the heatbed? I'm trying to find out after each layer if I give it 10 seconds to fully 'cure' or 'cool' to see if the results will be better. But I need to move the bed down away from the extruder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="33680" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2022-04-01T13:02:41.600" LastActivityDate="2022-04-01T13:16:41.870" Title="Setting Heat Bed Height Manually Mid-Print?" Tags="|g-code|heated-bed|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19179" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19178" CreationDate="2022-03-31T22:01:10.387" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The way to do this is something like:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;G91     ; Relative coordinates mode&#xA;G0 Z5   ; Move +5 on Z axis&#xA;G4 S10  ; Dwell for 10 seconds&#xA;G0 Z-5  ; Move -5 on Z axis&#xA;G90     ; (Return to) absolute coordinates mode&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can of course insert this manually in the gcode between layers, but most slicers have functionality (built-in or as plugins) to let you do that automatically, or of course you could use a text-processing utility like &lt;code&gt;sed&lt;/code&gt;, &lt;code&gt;awk&lt;/code&gt;, or &lt;code&gt;perl&lt;/code&gt; to do the insertions automatically if you're familiar with something like that and it's more to your liking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In a since-deleted answer, Trish raised some reasons you might not want to do this, including significantly increasing the time your print takes and possible difficulties getting the next layer to adhere to a fully cooled layer. I'm not convinced the latter is a real problem, but these concerns are worth considering. Some other reasons not to do what you're asking about include:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Even with perfectly dialed-in retraction, a hot nozzle dwelling for 10 seconds will almost certainly start to ooze, giving underextrusion and poor surface quality right after restarting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Most cooling occurs via the part cooling fan. If you move it away from the part, it won't do much. So you might find even after wasting 10 seconds per layer, your layers still aren't cool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to cool the entire layer effectively before the next layer goes down, I would recommend &amp;quot;side fan&amp;quot; setups that produce a thin layer of airflow (ideally laminar) at the current Z height. You can find examples of this in lots of the #speedboatrace speed Benchy entries on YouTube, especially on Vorons and other CoreXY machines since it's the easiest to setup on a printer where the bed moves down (like yours) rather than the nozzle moving up, being that you can just mount the fans and ducts at fixed height.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to experiment with this without actually making fancy fan ducts and mounts, just get a desk fan or box fan and point it at your printer. This works surprisingly well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastEditorUserId="11157" LastEditDate="2022-04-01T13:16:41.870" LastActivityDate="2022-04-01T13:16:41.870" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19181" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5391" CreationDate="2022-03-31T23:03:31.667" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had the same problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;If&lt;/strong&gt; your mains supply is 110 V&lt;/em&gt;, then make sure that the voltage selector switch of your PSU is set to 110 V... it should then print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the voltage selector switch is set to the default of 220 V, &lt;em&gt;and the mains supply is only 110 V&lt;/em&gt;, then the PSU will not provide enough current.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: If your mains is 240 V then changing the voltage selector to 110 V will damage your PSU or worse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="33681" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2022-04-01T17:49:07.697" LastActivityDate="2022-04-01T17:49:07.697" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19183" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19162" CreationDate="2022-04-02T12:50:49.853" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Being realistic, you only need to make sure that your on screen measurements and your export units are set correctly. That way whatever size you set on screen will be reflected in your print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, I use the MeasureIt plugin to tell me the size on screen, and I set the scale to 0.004 and the units to MM, and when I export to an STL file I set the size to 4. That way Cura Slicer always prints to the exact right size.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can use whatever scale you want so long as you use the equivalent when you export it. I just use this scale because it's the one used when exporting between Hexagon and DAZ Studio, so I did it as a force of habit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="29097" LastActivityDate="2022-04-02T12:50:49.853" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19184" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-04-02T20:22:55.187" Score="0" ViewCount="766" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm using a Velleman K8400 with a Velleman LED strips. The strips aren't able to adjust luminosity only color, so the Custom Lights menu item is irrelevant to my printer. How do I remove the menu item? I can see how to easily add menus and items, but not much reference as to how to remove them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16358" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2022-04-03T07:29:15.427" LastActivityDate="2022-04-03T12:26:41.783" Title="Remove irrelevant menu from Marlin 2.0" Tags="|marlin|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19185" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19106" CreationDate="2022-04-03T07:46:51.963" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are several points to check to trouble shooting this issue but commonly there are a loose part.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The heating elements is loose, try to tight the cartridge to the aluminum block.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The Sensor temperature is not touching the aluminum block or is outside of its position. Maybe the heating element is correct but the sensor is not taking the right value.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the temperature rises too slow and downs more quickly than normal is due the temperature sensor is out of it position.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other issues:&#xA;The PWM control is over heated, so this will need to replace it or change the transistor (FET), however this is not a common problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other one and more common that PWM over heated is the Power Source, as well like the PWM control the power source decreases his potencial on current supply. For me is easier replace the power source instead verify the PWM control.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now I´ve done that for second time in 6 years of printing. How Can I deduce that the PWM is not overheated?, I have a cooling fan for all PWM controls on the RAMPS 1.4 Module.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4454" LastActivityDate="2022-04-03T07:46:51.963" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19186" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19184" CreationDate="2022-04-03T12:26:41.783" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Based on your hardware configuration and the firmware setup of your Configuration.h, the LED menu will be made available through the &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/blob/2.0.x/Marlin/src/lcd/menu/menu_led.cpp&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;menu_led.cpp&lt;/a&gt; sources. Apparently, this work for you already considering you see too many entries.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To disable entries, you need to disable these in the afore mentioned code file.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To find where this menu is added to the configuration of the LCD menu structure you could search (&lt;em&gt;the GitHub.com website provides a powerful search tool to search within the sources of projects&lt;/em&gt;) for the &amp;quot;Custom Lights&amp;quot; menu caption in the Marlin sources to find this caption is used by constant &lt;code&gt;MSG_CUSTOM_LEDS&lt;/code&gt;, see the language translation file &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/blob/2.0.x/Marlin/src/lcd/language/language_en.h&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;language_en.h&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;LSTR MSG_CUSTOM_LEDS                    = _UxGT(&amp;quot;Custom Lights&amp;quot;);&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now searching for the &lt;code&gt;MSG_CUSTOM_LEDS&lt;/code&gt; constant will lead you to the file &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/blob/2.0.x/Marlin/src/lcd/menu/menu_led.cpp&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;menu_led.cpp&lt;/a&gt;; more specific, &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/blob/2.0.x/Marlin/src/lcd/menu/menu_led.cpp#L154&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this line&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;SUBMENU(MSG_CUSTOM_LEDS, menu_led_custom);&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you disable this line, recompile the firmware and upload it to your controller board you would see that the submenu has disappeared.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2022-04-03T12:26:41.783" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19187" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-04-03T12:30:21.733" Score="1" ViewCount="415" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm going to print several fruit and vegetable on an Ender 5, with a maximum size of 6 inches. They are all roughly spherical in shape. Melons, squash, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the optimum in fill type to use to balance printing speed and surface quality, rather than strength.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm using Creality Slicer&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="29097" LastActivityDate="2022-04-03T16:21:00.147" Title="What is the optimum infill style for printing a roughly spherical object on an Ender 5?" Tags="|slicing|creality-ender-5|infill|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19188" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19187" CreationDate="2022-04-03T16:21:00.147" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Infill should not affect the surface quality. It mainly affects:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;rigidity of the part (resistance to squishing in components where the outside surface geometry doesn't already make it rigid. Some infill structures are more rigid (or rigid in different directions) than others. For example, concentric and cross patterns intentionally provide very little rigidity and mainly serve to support what's above them, and 2D patterns like grid and triangles are maximally rigid in the Z direction while ones like cubic and gyroid provide more uniform rigidity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;strength of layer adhesion. This is usually not an issue when printing with thick walls, but with thinner walls or large interiors, the bonding of the infill layers can play a fairly big role. 2D patterns (ones where each layer of infill lines up exactly with the layer below it) are much stronger than 3D ones (where the infill shifts as you go up, so all the infill lines are &amp;quot;overhanging&amp;quot;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;integrity of top surfaces above infill. If the infill density is too low, the first few layers of top surface will have very little (in some regions, nothing) to rest on and will simply cave in or even extrude as spaghetti. Usually this self-corrects after a few layers but it means you need many more (maybe 6+) top layers to get a reliable top surface&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;integrity of details protruding above infill. This is similar to top layers, but even worse if there's not enough infill for the protrusion's walls to be supported by. Rather than self-correcting, you'll get very weak or no bonding, and possibly even a completely failed print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the type of object you're printing, I suspect infill is of very low importance. You would probably do best to use 3 walls (at least 1.2 mm total thickness) and something like 5-10% gyroid infill. Before you print, just look at the sliced preview and make sure anything printed above the infill&#xA;seems to have infill supporting it from below.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2022-04-03T16:21:00.147" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19189" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-04-03T16:33:17.373" Score="0" ViewCount="64" Body="&lt;p&gt;Basically,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I got the XL&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I installed the kit&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I downloaded the firmware from the Marlin GitHub page (Version 1.1.9 for Ender 3 Pro v2)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I put it in VSCode but it says that it is not binary or uses unsupported text so VSCode can't even show me what is going on.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Question:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How can I make it into a supported text or read it?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Did I do it right using this method?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If not, what is my next option?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="33709" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2022-04-03T20:15:05.907" LastActivityDate="2022-04-04T05:04:20.867" Title="I was updating my firmware for my 400XL kit for Ender 3 Pro and got an original firmware from the Creality website, but VSCode couldn't read it" Tags="|creality-ender-3|firmware|file-formats|microsd|400xl|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19190" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19189" CreationDate="2022-04-04T05:04:20.867" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;What exact firmware did you download? One of the &amp;quot;.bin&amp;quot; files? Those are already compiled and can not be edited, you'll need to download one in .zip format, where the whole Marlin &amp;quot;configuration.h&amp;quot; etc. structure is present.&#xA;Except for the very last option on their download page (&amp;quot;Ender-3 Pro_1.1.6.2V_Source Code.zip&amp;quot;), all files (illegaly) only contain the .bin or .hex files.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1.1.9 is ancient and obsolete.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's probably a good idea to download a fresh copy of up-to-date Marlin (&lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin&lt;/a&gt;) and copy over the correct configuration files from &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Configurations/tree/import-2.0.x/config/examples/Creality/Ender-3%20Pro&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Configurations/tree/import-2.0.x/config/examples/Creality/Ender-3%20Pro&lt;/a&gt; to get you started.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13171" LastActivityDate="2022-04-04T05:04:20.867" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19191" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19195" CreationDate="2022-04-04T15:25:08.643" Score="0" ViewCount="847" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am trying to print a shape (e.g. square container) using clear resin. However, I am facing the problem of the design sinking when I put it water. I am right now trying to make it hollow from the inside in some spots to reduce its density, but not sure how far can that take me. It is necessary for me that the print floats!&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mHzKH.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mHzKH.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do you guys have any tips? like a different print mater? or a change in shape that will help the design float?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25029" LastActivityDate="2022-04-06T19:48:57.457" Title="Which 3D printing material is best for floating designs?" Tags="|3d-models|3d-design|resin|water-resistance|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19192" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-04-05T03:58:02.153" Score="1" ViewCount="338" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an Ender 3 Pro which I recently added an SKR Mini E3 v2.0 with Marlin and BLTouch.  I have run into an odd issue where roughly the first 10 mm of the print are compressed into ~7 mm of Z height.  I don't think its mechanical based on the following process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Power on the printer, &lt;strong&gt;Auto Home&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Move the print head to the middle of the bed ~1 mm off the print surface (move the nozzle down until it touches, then back of 1 mm)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Measure the nozzle height relative to the print bed, command a 10 mm Z move, measure the Z nozzle height it's &lt;strong&gt;10 mm higher.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Level the bed with the BLTouch (The Z offset is correct and 0 mm is basically at the print surface)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Repeat the process above, start with the nozzle 1 mm off the bed, command a 10 mm move.  The measured height of the nozzle is now only &lt;strong&gt;7.5 mm&lt;/strong&gt; higher than it was.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Anything I try after this (rehoming, running bed leveling again) still results in a 7.5 mm move when a 10 mm is commanded.  It's only the 10 mm closest to the bed, a second 10 mm postive move results in 10 mm delta to the nozzle height.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All prints consistently have the same compression of the first layers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Two other pieces of information that seem like they are relevant, the Z zero when homed is about 2.5 mm lower than when I run bed leveling.  ENABLE_LEVELING_FADE_HEIGHT is set to 10.0 mm.  Those two numbers combined seem really suspicious to me, but its not clear to me what to change if that is the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This calibration block should be 50 mm high, it's 47 mm high and the 3 mm are lost in the first 25mm step:&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FGwtf.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;3D printed calibration model with ruler next beside it to show the irregularity&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FGwtf.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;3D printed calibration model with ruler next beside it to show the irregularity&quot; title=&quot;3D printed calibration model with ruler next beside it to show the irregularity&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="33725" LastEditorUserId="33725" LastEditDate="2022-04-06T01:49:37.080" LastActivityDate="2022-04-06T01:49:37.080" Title="Marlin + BLTouch layer compression" Tags="|marlin|bed-leveling|bltouch|print-axis-offset|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19193" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19048" CreationDate="2022-04-05T08:53:25.230" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The maximum RPM depends on motor current. Higher current, lower max rpm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I checked your klipper.conf and I can say that you should definitely reduce the currents for all motors. Extruder and Z motors at 0.9 A is crazy, for example. X and Y 0.7 A is enough, for Z and extruder 0.4 A is good already.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, you request F9000 which is impossible on that printer, therefore you are automatically limited by the firmware max speed. Try manually asking a more reasonable speed, like F2000. Keep decreasing until it works. Try decreasing the acceleration too: you have 120, try with 50 which is good already for Z moves. If it works, increase it progressively.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2338" LastEditorUserId="2338" LastEditDate="2022-04-05T12:42:48.387" LastActivityDate="2022-04-05T12:42:48.387" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19194" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7676" CreationDate="2022-04-05T15:05:29.620" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Preheat Constants - Up to 5 are supported without changing the code just add a new one and then build&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#define PREHEAT_1_LABEL       &amp;quot;PLA&amp;quot;&#xA;#define PREHEAT_1_TEMP_HOTEND 215&#xA;#define PREHEAT_1_TEMP_BED     70&#xA;#define PREHEAT_1_TEMP_CHAMBER 35&#xA;#define PREHEAT_1_FAN_SPEED     0 // Value from 0 to 255&#xA;&#xA;#define PREHEAT_2_LABEL       &amp;quot;PETG&amp;quot;&#xA;#define PREHEAT_2_TEMP_HOTEND 235&#xA;#define PREHEAT_2_TEMP_BED    70&#xA;#define PREHEAT_2_TEMP_CHAMBER 35&#xA;#define PREHEAT_2_FAN_SPEED     0 // Value from 0 to 255&#xA;&#xA;#define PREHEAT_3_LABEL       &amp;quot;ABS&amp;quot;&#xA;#define PREHEAT_3_TEMP_HOTEND 270&#xA;#define PREHEAT_3_TEMP_BED    100&#xA;#define PREHEAT_3_TEMP_CHAMBER 35&#xA;#define PREHEAT_3_FAN_SPEED     0 // Value from 0 to 255&#xA;&#xA;#define PREHEAT_4_LABEL       &amp;quot;NYLON&amp;quot;&#xA;#define PREHEAT_4_TEMP_HOTEND 260&#xA;#define PREHEAT_4_TEMP_BED     65&#xA;#define PREHEAT_4_TEMP_CHAMBER 35&#xA;#define PREHEAT_4_FAN_SPEED     0 // Value from 0 to 255&#xA;&lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;```&lt;/span&gt;&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="33730" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2022-04-05T17:51:21.770" LastActivityDate="2022-04-05T17:51:21.770" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19195" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19191" CreationDate="2022-04-05T20:18:25.307" Score="3" Body="&lt;h2&gt;The material doesn't matter*&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Floating designs are exactly that: &lt;strong&gt;designs&lt;/strong&gt;. If the design is made to float, and your printer can create a watertight shell (which is a different problem than the material), then you can use any material. Well, almost any, because:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Only one caveat remains&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only type of material that isn't suitable is any material that will dissolve in the fluid it will swim in. Like PVA in water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Otherwise, the material only matters for &lt;em&gt;other&lt;/em&gt; properties, but &lt;strong&gt;not&lt;/strong&gt; for &amp;quot;it can float&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;How to design a floating item?&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When does a design float? Well, the rule described by Archimedes is often described as &amp;quot;An item floats if when the volume of water it displaces is lighter than the item.&amp;quot; In other words: if its density is lower than water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, it's not that simple after the first look: What is the volume and weight of the boat? After all, we can make steel, which weighs upwards of 3 tons per cubic meter float while water is only 1 ton a cubic meter. What is the mystery part? It is simple: the underwater ship does not allow ingress.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Draft depth&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, we want a solid wall from the lowest part to the line the item will sink into when it reaches equilibrium. That's the draft depth. For ships, there is a formula to quickly calculate the draft depth based on knowing how much water will be displaced:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Seal all the holes and gaps in the boat. Now measure the volume the item displaces when it is put onto the water. Call it &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$V$&lt;/span&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Take the surface area of the boat. Call it &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$A$&lt;/span&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The Draft &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$d$&lt;/span&gt; is now &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$d=\frac V A$&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the alternative:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Make a &lt;em&gt;volume item&lt;/em&gt; by removing the holes into the contained volume and filling those voids to the upper rim. Have your CAD tell you the contained Volume. This is &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$V_w$&lt;/span&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Weigh your printed item. This is &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$M_p$&lt;/span&gt;. We turn that into Displaced Volume &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$V_d$&lt;/span&gt; by using water density: &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$V_d=M_p*1000\frac {\text {mm}^3}{\text g}$&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Make a plane cut of our volume item, so that the lower part of the item has the same volume as the displaced volume. That is how much of the boat will be underwater.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The second method also works for tilted or very asymmetric shapes (like a bot listing), while the first is roughly over the thumb.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, how does that help with the design? Remember, we had sealed the slots earlier. If the slots are in any way below our draft depth, then water ingress happens through that slot - and the slot will have to be moved above the draft depth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Dasign adjustments&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are several adjustments to get the item to have a lower draft, but all of them boil down to reducing the density.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the case of your design, the hanging floor of the basin can have a lot of it cut away and turned into a &lt;em&gt;grid&lt;/em&gt; of sorts, which would reduce the impact this part of the print has to the total density.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could also move the slots up enough so that it will be above the waterline, even if filled to an expected degree.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you &lt;em&gt;really&lt;/em&gt; need to include voids, you will need to alter your printing code in between layers, because resin printers don't typically raise the print fuly out of the resin vat and have &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/18792/fluid-resin-gets-trapped-inside-my-prints/18793#18793&quot;&gt;such hollows filled with resin as a result&lt;/a&gt;. And please &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/13988/why-is-cupping-bad-in-sla-prints/13991#13991&quot;&gt;try to avoid Cupping&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastActivityDate="2022-04-05T20:18:25.307" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19196" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-04-06T00:58:12.090" Score="1" ViewCount="2617" Body="&lt;p&gt;What might these 4 pins be on the Creality 4.2.3 board be?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The silkscreen says&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;G&#xA;SC&#xA;SD&#xA;V&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/G2XSh.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Photo of Creality 4.2.3 board with 4-pin header circled&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/G2XSh.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Photo of Creality 4.2.3 board with 4-pin header circled&quot; title=&quot;Photo of Creality 4.2.3 board with 4-pin header circled&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is next to the pin header for the LCD, so I suspect it is either a UART or TFT port.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Googling I suspect &lt;code&gt;SD&lt;/code&gt; &lt;em&gt;might&lt;/em&gt; be short for SDA and &lt;code&gt;SC&lt;/code&gt; &lt;em&gt;might&lt;/em&gt; be short for &lt;code&gt;SCL&lt;/code&gt;. Which are common I2C pin descriptions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/pull/23307#issuecomment-996371949&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/pull/23307#issuecomment-996371949&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28932" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2022-04-06T03:12:27.657" LastActivityDate="2022-04-06T03:14:07.860" Title="What is this 4 pin header on the Creality 4.2.3 board?" Tags="|creality|part-identification|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19197" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19196" CreationDate="2022-04-06T01:16:44.413" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/Creality3DPrinting/Ender-3/issues/58#issuecomment-982732560&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;the unofficial schematics&lt;/a&gt; for the very similar 4.2.2 Creality board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It contains a 4 pin header titled ICSP port.&#xA;Note that these appear to be 3.3 V pins&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2P8cX.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Portion of a schematic for the Creality 4.2.3 board showing the ICSP port&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2P8cX.png&quot; alt=&quot;Portion of a schematic for the Creality 4.2.3 board showing the ICSP port&quot; title=&quot;Portion of a schematic for the Creality 4.2.3 board showing the ICSP port&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28932" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2022-04-06T03:14:07.860" LastActivityDate="2022-04-06T03:14:07.860" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19198" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19199" CreationDate="2022-04-06T01:36:46.673" Score="2" ViewCount="3347" Body="&lt;p&gt;Using cyanoacrylate to glue PLA parts sometimes leaves a white residue or haze near the glue locations.  Is there an easy way to remove it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've tried water and alcohol swabs but after drying the haze remains.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cw1pu.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Photo showing white residue&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cw1pu.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Photo showing white residue&quot; title=&quot;Photo showing white residue&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="33030" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2022-04-06T09:23:19.093" LastActivityDate="2023-11-17T09:57:32.660" Title="How can cyanoacrylate haze be removed from PLA?" Tags="|pla|glue|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19199" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19198" CreationDate="2022-04-06T03:38:45.603" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Doing a Google search turned up the article &amp;quot;&lt;a href=&quot;https://mycustomhotwheels.com/stop-superglue-white-residue/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;How To Prevent/Remove White Superglue Residue&lt;/a&gt;&amp;quot; on MyCustomHotwheels.com.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to the article, the haze is caused &amp;quot;by trace amounts of moisture on the substrate surfaces&amp;quot;. Of course, the author does talk about how to prevent this haze beforehand by using quality Superglue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Towards the bottom of the article, there are two solutions to removing the haze: a heat gun and petroleum jelly. Two YouTube videos provide live demonstrations of the removal of the haze (provided below).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The heat gun method uses 100 ° air. The narrator of the video does not specify Celsius or Fahrenheit but he does have an accent so I would guess that he's not American and therefore the temperature is probably Celsius.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The petroleum jelly is used in the second video. The narrator doesn't have great success at first until he cleans the plastic a second time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/YFX7-20-Z6I?start=0&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/XEw5InfoowQ?start=0&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23193" LastActivityDate="2022-04-06T03:38:45.603" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19200" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19198" CreationDate="2022-04-06T11:14:09.493" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Incidentally, this whitish &amp;quot;haze&amp;quot; is exactly what I've found happens when objects printed with certain &amp;quot;PLA&amp;quot; filaments (likely containing additives other than PLA, since PLA isn't supposed to be affected by it) are exposed to acetone. CA glue is soluble in acetone and likely contains acetone or similar solvents, and it seems a plausible explanation is that the solvent is leeching whatever part of the material is soluble out of the part, then depositing it back on the surface after it dries. The pigments are likely not soluble and remain below.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've had some success just rubbing the &amp;quot;haze&amp;quot; material off with a cloth while it's not entirely dry, but that's without the CA adhesive which would make rubbing it while wet... inadvisible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the part is amenable to sanding, sanding lightly once it's fully dry may be a good option.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For what it's worth, I don't get this effect using CA glue on PLA, but I always use the extremely low-viscosity, fast-drying type (Loctite 420 and other brand equivalents), so using one of these might be a solution for the future (although not for any part already affected).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2022-04-06T11:14:09.493" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19202" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-04-06T21:18:06.540" Score="3" ViewCount="3343" Body="&lt;p&gt;I own a spool of PETG and I have been having major print quality issues: layer offsets, chunks of 3D print strewn across the buildplate and other things. I traced these effects to a single culprit: rough layers. I don't know how to fix this. I haven't had this issue at all with any of my other PETG filament colors. And the buildplate height is just where it needs to be, so why is this happening?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Print settings&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Layer height: 0.23 mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Extruder: 235 °C&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bed: 80 °C&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Retraction length: 6 mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Retraction extra restart length: 0.3 mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Z-Hop height: 0.25 mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Base print speed: 45 mm/s&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Extrusion ratio: 106 %&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23125" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2023-02-08T12:08:48.203" LastActivityDate="2023-03-10T13:10:01.330" Title="PETG layers are super rough" Tags="|petg|layer-shifting|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19203" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19202" CreationDate="2022-04-06T21:39:37.173" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You are probably over extruding, this causes an excess amount of filament causing the mentioned problems. PETG is softer than PLA, so the extruder teeth grip deeper into the filament. This smaller diameter causes too much filament flow. Try to decrease the flow modifier for this spool of PETG.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Furthermore, your spool may have picked up some moisture, please dry the spool prior to use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2023-02-08T12:07:29.483" LastActivityDate="2023-02-08T12:07:29.483" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19207" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-04-08T09:05:29.910" Score="0" ViewCount="151" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm interested in making optical lenses, but I do not want to spend too much on it. What are the limits and criteria which will help me decide which SLA printer will make it possible or not?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suppose the first criterion will be the resolution which will require more or less polishing afterwards, but are there other things to check and some which would constitute an absolute no-go with low-range machines?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19706" LastEditorUserId="4625" LastEditDate="2023-01-02T13:13:20.650" LastActivityDate="2023-01-02T13:13:20.650" Title="What are the limits of SLA 3D printing for optical lenses (e.g. glasses)" Tags="|print-quality|resin|sla|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19208" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19213" CreationDate="2022-04-08T11:30:13.170" Score="2" ViewCount="432" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am new at this and maybe my model is not the best, I adapted it for another one actually. Can you tell me why I can't get the holes printed? I already checked the faces and they are all in the correct orientation (I think)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What happens is that I start printing with the holes facing down and they are not printed at all. I never let it keep going for long but it seems to be completely filled inside.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can check the file &lt;a href=&quot;https://ufile.io/9favbj6e&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lSvn0.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lSvn0.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/b1PSD.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/b1PSD.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="33756" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2022-04-09T02:02:56.420" LastActivityDate="2022-04-11T13:58:09.950" Title="Not printing the holes" Tags="|3d-models|slicing|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19209" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19208" CreationDate="2022-04-08T14:02:35.087" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The overall appearance is that the normals are &amp;quot;normal,&amp;quot; that you have no reversed facets, but there are discontinuities within the model that Meshmixer and Netfabb show as failure points. Windows 10 3DBuilder also attempts a repair which fills in the holes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/L92T7.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/L92T7.png&quot; alt=&quot;meshmixer failure indicators&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Meshmixer capture image shows red lines and points at the flaws in the model. Both above programs fill the faces, which works fine on the cylinder, but fills in the plane where the holes reside, as well as removes the internal holes/cylinders, preventing a simple plane cut repair.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additional examination of the original model shows an internal cylinder formed axially on the end face red warning markers in the image above.&#xA;I used Rhino3D v6 to slip inside, select the cylinder and remove it. Because the cylinder is &amp;quot;inside&amp;quot; the overall model, there's no inside face and outside face, causing the software to glitch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the red line along the circumference of the cylinder, there's an internal disk/disc with an internal diameter to match the previously removed internal cylinder. As it also resides within the overall model, the same trouble applies: no true inside/outside surface for the software to comprehend.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once these were removed, a problematic set of errors appeared. I'm working on that. Work completed. Windows 10 3DBuilder has a pretty amazing repair facility, once the deep stuff is cleaned away. The end result passes the Meshmixer Inspector test and I suspect will work for you. The cylinder appears to be 37 mm in diameter (about an inch and a half) which is rather tiny, but with the flaws repaired, will scale up just fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It loaded into Simplify3D slicer with no errors and appears will print nicely, although with support required along the beveled portion of the cylinder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2022-04-11T13:58:09.950" LastActivityDate="2022-04-11T13:58:09.950" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19210" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19217" CreationDate="2022-04-08T18:26:00.620" Score="0" ViewCount="1793" Body="&lt;p&gt;About a day ago my Ender 3 v2 just shut off while printing. It didn’t really bother me since this has happened many times before and switching the power supply off and then turning it on would fix the issue. This time though the printer is no longer turning on. I opened up the power supply and the indicator light is turning on, but when I check the outputs with a voltage meter it says 0. What could be the problem here?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="33764" LastActivityDate="2022-04-10T10:27:59.640" Title="My Ender 3 v2 has randomly turned off and no longer turns on. Any suggestions on how to fix this?" Tags="|creality-ender-3|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19211" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16661" CreationDate="2022-04-08T20:02:12.307" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This looks like an older question but thought that I would post anyway in case someone else stumbles upon this question like I just did.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An ownership change to the &lt;code&gt;/opt/dsf/sd/sys&lt;/code&gt; directory can create a situation where heightmap files are unable to be saved. There are a couple of ways to check.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How to check - Method 1: Try creating a new config file from the GUI (under the same menu as your config.g file, same area where the heightmap file is supposed to be saved). If there are any issues creating or saving the file, it is a good indicator that the dir ownership has changed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How to check - Method 2: Open a terminal and run &lt;code&gt;stat /opt/dsf/sd/sys&lt;/code&gt;. There should be an area that lists the ownership and both areas (user and group) should list &lt;code&gt;dsf&lt;/code&gt; as the owner. If the owner is &lt;code&gt;pi&lt;/code&gt; (standard default user) or anything else then this is likely the issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Solution: To reset the folder ownership back to the correct setting, open a terminal and run &lt;code&gt;sudo chown -R dsf:dsf /opt/dsf/sd/sys&lt;/code&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;NOTE: If you found that the underlying issue is folder ownership, it is also worth checking the other directories under the &lt;code&gt;/opt/dsf/sd&lt;/code&gt; path and the other directories and update with the correct permission fix where necessary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="33765" LastActivityDate="2022-04-08T20:02:12.307" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19212" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-04-08T21:32:30.090" Score="0" ViewCount="68" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to print this with an Anet A8&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tOjih.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tOjih.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's supposed to be completely cylindrical but it's printing it all wobbly and with edges.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8TpHb.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8TpHb.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm a complete noob with 3D printing, so any tips would be highly appreciated&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="33766" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2022-04-10T12:36:46.987" LastActivityDate="2022-04-10T12:36:46.987" Title="Anet A8 inaccurate printing" Tags="|print-quality|anet-a8|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19213" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19208" CreationDate="2022-04-09T01:42:40.937" Score="2" Body="&lt;h1&gt;The problem is internal geomoetry&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The body you modeled consists of a non-manifold shell: There exists a fully enclosed shell on the inside of the item that tries to define an &amp;quot;outside&amp;quot; of the body. In the following picture, I have hidden part of the geometry to better show the problematic internal surfaces in orange:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UWHWH.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UWHWH.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;internal Geometry&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Automatic processes such as Meshmixer or Windows 10 3D builder interpret such an internal, one-sided open cylinder as &amp;quot;This probably is missing a surface on both ends&amp;quot;. This solution leads to two intersecting and manifold shells - &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/q/6230/8884&quot;&gt;a cylinder overlapping the drilled holes and the body with the drilled holes&lt;/a&gt; - which then promptly get treated with a boolean union... and voila! No more holes. Or even no more outer shell as the easiest solution is to just stitch that lower surface and discard the rest. This is what happens when Meshmixer does just that: you are left with the cone half and some inverted artifact areas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AshxK.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AshxK.png&quot; alt=&quot;Meshmixer automatic repair removes half the model leaving a few inverted artifacts&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the best solution is to ensure the parts don't contain such volumes encased by a non-manifold surface in the first place. Due to the nature of the part, in this case, it is rather simple: Simply removing the circle of vertices that spans up both the plane, as well as the cylinder, marked orange results in all internal surfaces getting removed. Note that due to the orange parts sharing (at least partially) vertices with the wanted outside, this has to be done manually. Would both surfaces share no vertex, a simple &amp;quot;separate shells&amp;quot; operation could result in a very quick way to remove offending structures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tEKZJ.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tEKZJ.png&quot; alt=&quot;Without internal geometry&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Without the internal geometry, the model gets interpreted correctly - the mere presence of such superfluous internal geometry makes the slicer believe that some surfaces are inverted or missing, and thus need to be inverted or stitched - and the solution to the slicing is... utter mess.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Vbix6.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Vbix6.png&quot; alt=&quot;Cura rendition of the defect and cured model&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kgC0I.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kgC0I.png&quot; alt=&quot;Slicing solutions, before and after removal of internal geometry&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2022-04-09T10:49:34.593" LastActivityDate="2022-04-09T10:49:34.593" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19215" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19216" CreationDate="2022-04-10T07:33:36.303" Score="2" ViewCount="906" Body="&lt;p&gt;This problem has been occurring for a while. On the top of round objects, you can see the individual layers. Maybe I just need a lower layer height.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AQqhp.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Photo of a 3D printed model with printing errors on the top&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AQqhp.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Photo of a 3D printed model with printing errors on the top&quot; title=&quot;Photo of a 3D printed model with printing errors on the top&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="33776" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2022-04-10T12:22:35.737" LastActivityDate="2022-04-10T15:39:08.620" Title="Weird top layers on Ender 3 Pro" Tags="|creality-ender-3|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19216" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19215" CreationDate="2022-04-10T10:15:12.200" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;At the top of curves layers will always be more visible because the layers are increasing offset from each other. Layer height will help with this, but if you really want it smooth you will need to do some post-processing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Usually if possible I avoid having a top surface like that of any significant size. But when I do I either leave it and post process or add some little design elements to break it up a bit. So it's still there but not really noticeable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31811" LastActivityDate="2022-04-10T10:15:12.200" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19217" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19210" CreationDate="2022-04-10T10:22:59.017" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not familiar with that particular power supply, but usually they have a fuse. In your case it's more likely to be a capacitator causing the problem though as fuses are not intermittent problems and they're usually situated before any board lights for obvious reasons. They normally either work or fail.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm assuming you checked for loose wires and connections.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a job for an electrician, capacitators cannot easily be tested without proper equipment and need some good soldering skills to replace properly. If they're liquid filled then you can sometimes see doming on the top of the capacitator where it looks a bit deformed. Or even a leak. If they're solid state then there is no easy way to see if they're failing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31811" LastEditorUserId="31811" LastEditDate="2022-04-10T10:27:59.640" LastActivityDate="2022-04-10T10:27:59.640" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19218" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19215" CreationDate="2022-04-10T15:39:08.620" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Kilisi is absolutely right that you necessarily (without advanced non-planar slicing techniques that aren't available in production slicers) have a &amp;quot;stairstep&amp;quot; effect whenever you have a shallow angle top surface like that. However, it looks from your picture like you also have some &lt;em&gt;gaps&lt;/em&gt; that are accentuating the problem and making your top surface non-watertight. This can be fixed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Slicers (at least Cura) are fairly bad about figuring out where they have to put material under the very top layer to ensure that you have a solid wall of the desired thickness. Where the outer wall face is pointing almost-upward, you would need either a lot more outer perimeters than the shell thickness you want, because they're significantly offset from each other (often by as much or more than the whole 2D wall width) at each successive layer. Using excessively many walls will solve this, but wastes a lot of print time and material. Using more top layers is the easiest fix I know. I find that 5 top layers at 0.2 layer height pretty much always gives solid curved tops, even with spherical top shape. The only way that might fail is if you have really low infill and they all &amp;quot;sink in&amp;quot; rather than bonding properly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course these gaps could also be caused by underextrusion or misplaced extrusion. Check instructions for enabling and calibrating Linear Advance/Pressure Advance on your printer for one of the big ingredients in fixing top gaps and related extrusion inaccuracy problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2022-04-10T15:39:08.620" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19219" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19220" CreationDate="2022-04-10T20:13:44.160" Score="0" ViewCount="6521" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just bought and built a Creality Ender 3 V2.  The last step of the setup is to flip this little yellow switch on the power supply to be either 115 V or 230 V.  From my other research, I think that I have to flip the switch to 115 V because I live in the US. Since US standard outlets give 120 V of electricity and not 115 V, I am confused.  Why is 115 V &amp;quot;correct&amp;quot; if the voltage I will supply is actually 120 V?  Will this extra 5 volts burn out the printer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="33779" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2022-04-10T20:36:46.120" LastActivityDate="2022-04-10T20:37:31.133" Title="Creality Ender 3 V2 little yellow switch on power supply" Tags="|creality-ender-3|power-supply|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19220" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19219" CreationDate="2022-04-10T20:34:32.037" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It won't burn it out. The voltage is between 110 to 125. Power supplies are designed to work in that range. So sometimes you'll see appliances rated for 110 V, 115 V, 120 V... they actually are all the same.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31811" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2022-04-10T20:37:31.133" LastActivityDate="2022-04-10T20:37:31.133" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19221" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19230" CreationDate="2022-04-10T20:52:14.880" Score="0" ViewCount="1732" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am using an Elegoo Saturn S and have leveled the build plate per manufacturer's instructions a handful of times. However, I have yet to get a successful print except for the rook model that came with the printer and a couple &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4707289&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Validation Matrix&lt;/a&gt; prints, which are pretty thin. I've switched resins and am finding more luck with grey vs white. White always resulted in delamination at some point early in the print and supports not printing (even with thicker supports). Grey is printing alright for the most part but most of the raft falls off the build plate. There's just enough adhesion that the print does not outright fail (surprisingly) but a good 60%-70% of the raft is hanging loose. I had one print that could have finished and the current print is about half loose&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I assume that this is a leveling issue, but as I said, I've leveled the bed numerous times. I bought a new build plate (to counteract another problem) and I've recently changed the FEP. It wasn't until this change and switching to grey resin that I've had any remote success. One thing I've noticed is that the resin pools more to the left side suggesting the work area is not level. Would this matter? I figured that if the build plate is level with the LCD, it shouldn't matter if everything is off. The angle seems to be about 2 or 3 degrees.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My current settings:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Bottom Layers:&lt;/strong&gt; 5&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Bottom Exposure:&lt;/strong&gt; 30 s (white resin adheres too well almost for bottom)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Bottom Lift:&lt;/strong&gt; 5 mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Normal Exposure:&lt;/strong&gt; 2.5 or 3 s (monochrome LCD)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Normal Lift:&lt;/strong&gt; 4 mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Retract Speed:&lt;/strong&gt; 70 mm/m (for both bottom and normal)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Layer Thickness:&lt;/strong&gt; 0.05 mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Originally sliced with ChituBox, but &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/19222/chitubox-stopped-slicing-files-correctly&quot;&gt;that stopped working&lt;/a&gt; for some reason. Slicing with Lychee now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13883" LastEditorUserId="13883" LastEditDate="2022-04-10T21:04:54.857" LastActivityDate="2022-04-12T17:11:54.730" Title="Does an uneven resin printer matter if the build plate is level with LCD?" Tags="|bed-leveling|adhesion|resin|elegoo-saturn|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19222" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-04-10T21:03:50.810" Score="1" ViewCount="1423" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just bought an Elegoo Saturn S and used ChituBox for slicing. I had sliced a couple of models but for some reason the printer stopped recognizing the .ctb files the other day. I sliced a model and started the print, but it failed. Then when I tweaked the settings and sliced again, the printer said that the file was an unrecognized file type. The file shows up and I can see the name and .ctb, but the image is a folder instead of the actual model. I sliced directly to the USB as well as sliced to the PC and copied the file over to the jump drive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I looked online and saw that I should to downgrade from ChituBox 1.9.0 down to 1.8.something. Since I was using 1.9.2, I assumed that the former advice was out of date and didn't want to deal with downgrading since there's a whole process with log files and directories or something.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another commenter said that the firmware may be out of date so I ensured that my firmware is up to date.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another recommendation was to try a new USB stick since the one with the printer is garbage, but the problem persisted. I formatted both drives a couple of times and nothing worked. I've switched to Lychee which sliced files that the printer actually recognized as files.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While the blaring answer is &amp;quot;Just use Lychee, duh!&amp;quot; I am curious if there is a fix/workaround for ChituBox in case this pops up again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update:&lt;/strong&gt; Well, this seems to happen with Lychee now too. I slice a file and the printer still recognizes that the file exists including the .ctb filetype and it shows a folder instead of a preview of the model. When I go to print, the printer says &amp;quot;Unrecognized file extension.&amp;quot; This happens with the jump drive that came with the printer. The second jump drive I use doesn't even get recognized by the printer. Everything is blank when I plug it in. From my limited research, allegedly the Saturn doesn't do well with USB 3.0 for some reason.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Resliced files and sliced new files using both Lychee and ChituBox on two brand new, USB 2.0 16 GB jump drives of differing brands. I was informed that perhaps the size of the jump drive may be a problem. Both jump drives are using FAT32, as recommended on an Elegoo forum. Problem persists.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13883" LastEditorUserId="13883" LastEditDate="2022-04-16T17:23:30.883" LastActivityDate="2022-05-16T19:04:50.430" Title="Chitubox stopped slicing files correctly" Tags="|chitu|elegoo-saturn|lychee|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19223" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-04-11T00:48:06.687" Score="1" ViewCount="1353" Body="&lt;p&gt;Installing BLTouch on Ender 3 with SKR Mini E3 v2 motherboard, flash the firmware and do the first autohome, X and Y-axis autohome to the endstops just fine, but then the print head moves to the position it wants to be in to start the Z-axis homing, and it tries to move past the opposite end of the X-axis and starts grinding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It grinds for a second or two then stops and begins the Z-axis homing with the BLTouch, but I haven't completed the Z-homing to see if that works yet as I quickly shut down the printer when grinding starts so that it won't damage anything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried changing print bed size in firmware and print margins, but that didn't help, I also thought it might be due to the &amp;quot;z-safe-homing&amp;quot; option being enabled in the firmware but when I disabled that I got an error when I tried to compile it saying that it needs to be enabled when using the BLTouch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've been trying to sort this for a few weeks now and haven't had any luck so I thought I'd reach out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="33781" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2022-04-11T04:21:13.663" LastActivityDate="2022-04-16T16:29:11.353" Title="When Z-axis is autohoming the print head moves too far to the right and starts grinding" Tags="|creality-ender-3|z-axis|bltouch|z-probe|x-axis|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19224" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5508" CreationDate="2022-04-11T05:25:36.897" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cura does not adjust line width to account for lower flow (aka extrusion multiplier), they are independent settings. Therefore, if you have to reduce extrusion to get the correct wall thickness, then as you said, the lines may not be close enough together to fuse properly and you'll have a weak part. Try reducing the line width. First though, I would take the below troubleshooting steps:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.3dmakerengineering.com/blogs/3d-printing/estep-calibration&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Calibrate e-steps in firmware&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://filaments.ca/blogs/3d-printing/how-to-measure-3d-filament-diameter&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Calibrate the actual diameter of the filament you're using&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprintbeginner.com/flow-rate-calibration/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Calibrate flow for the correct wall thickness&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.3dprintbeast.com/cura-nozzle-size-line-width/#:%7E:text=For%20setting%20line%20width%20on,by%20using%20the%20search%20box.&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Adjust line width in Cura if needed to get proper fusing&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lastly you might want to check for a partial nozzle clog which can cause under-extrusion, though that is usually not consistent&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16639" LastEditorUserId="16639" LastEditDate="2022-04-18T18:53:26.697" LastActivityDate="2022-04-18T18:53:26.697" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19225" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19229" CreationDate="2022-04-11T10:00:15.477" Score="0" ViewCount="2323" Body="&lt;p&gt;What are the real overhang limits? I see a lot online about 45 %, then up to 60 %, but I'm routinely doing them at up to 90 % for &amp;quot;shortish&amp;quot; distances and 80%+ for several centimeters at a time. I haven't tried to see how far I can do it, since I don't have filament to waste on that sort of thing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's making me wonder how believable all the YouTube and website experts are. Same thing with stringing, they all talk about it on Ender 3's but this print has been going for 25 hours and has maybe two tiny strings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the second time I've printed this same STL with no supports.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;0.2 mm layer height&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ender 3 Pro&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Generic PLA&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IqHWF.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IqHWF.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Overhang&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31811" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2022-04-11T10:51:08.313" LastActivityDate="2022-04-11T17:31:03.907" Title="Practical overhang limits" Tags="|print-quality|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19226" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19225" CreationDate="2022-04-11T10:48:56.647" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is very difficult to determine a definitive number/value for the overhang angle, this is very dependent on the temperature, speed, material, nr. of walls amount of cooling fan percentage and the effectivity of the fan duct and your object geometry. Probably more settings are applicable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could find out what the specific values for you printer and your settings are by printing an overhang test, e.g. like &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2656594&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this one&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Xcypr.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;All In One 3D Printer test&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Xcypr.png&quot; alt=&quot;All In One 3D Printer test&quot; title=&quot;All In One 3D Printer test&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Such a test will give you definitive answers on the overhang angle for your specific slicer settings and machine capabilities.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2022-04-11T17:31:03.907" LastActivityDate="2022-04-11T17:31:03.907" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19227" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19225" CreationDate="2022-04-11T11:44:54.497" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;From my limited experience there is very little in the way of overhangs that won't print for a short distance. Depending what you're printing and what it's end use will be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this case it needs to be robust enough for daily use holding napkins and toothpicks and cutlery at a restaurant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The model in the question printed for about 3 centimeters well over the threshold as shown in the picture and will print a bit more before joining the rest of the arm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The overhang tests available online are in my opinion a waste of time. It would be very bad design to print something like them because if it's not joining anything it would be too fragile to be any use. Dropping it off a table accidently or breathing too hard near it might result in it snapping.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So if the distance is short anything up to about 80 - 85 % is possible. What happens is that the leading edge bends upwards a little bit after it prints. Then the next layer heats it soft and pushes it down and deposits on top of it (which then warps upwards) until it eventually reaches the join where the final warp is pushed down and joins nicely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can do all the fancy tests you want, but this is how it actually works in practice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I find that post processing afterwards is minimal, less than if I'd used supports.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rO8hB.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rO8hB.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Overhang after 1 hour&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31811" LastEditorUserId="31811" LastEditDate="2022-04-11T12:16:55.440" LastActivityDate="2022-04-11T12:16:55.440" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19228" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19232" CreationDate="2022-04-11T12:23:33.497" Score="0" ViewCount="631" Body="&lt;p&gt;I made a hook recently that I put up with VHB tape. It fell off around 2 weeks later (the hook come loose from the tape). It's just a hook for an empty backpack, so let's say it is under medium load.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Every time I design something like this I wonder if it helps to roughen up the surface before applying the tape. I'd imagine that the tape grabs onto grooves made with a knife or sandpaper but I am not sure tbh. I've seen some videos where someone preheats the tape before applying it but without explaining why.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know how that works best?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26618" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2022-04-12T18:15:48.640" LastActivityDate="2022-04-14T06:56:50.497" Title="Does VHB tape stick better on 3D prints if the surface is completely flat or roughed up?" Tags="|pla|post-processing|surface|stability|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19229" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19225" CreationDate="2022-04-11T14:25:15.100" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&amp;quot;Real overhang limits&amp;quot; are hard to define. If you want &lt;em&gt;accurate extrusion&lt;/em&gt;, such that precision parts fit together correctly or angled geometric surfaces that are supposed to be flat come out flat, each extrusion line must have at least some minimal portion of itself (probably including its center line) printed on top of and against existing material underneath that already has sufficient rigidity (both geometrically and in terms of cooling) not to deflect when printing against it. In this sense, the overhang angle is &lt;code&gt;arctan(lw * (1-k) / lh)&lt;/code&gt; where &lt;code&gt;lh&lt;/code&gt; is layer height, &lt;code&gt;lw&lt;/code&gt; is line width (normally nozzle width), and &lt;code&gt;k&lt;/code&gt; is the portion of overlap you demand. For example at 0.4 line width, 0.2 layer height, and 50% overlap, you get out exactly 45°.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you just want the printed part to have basic structural integrity, things get a lot more fuzzy, and dependent on the geometry - particularly, the convexity/cocavity of any overhanging extrusions. Concave overhangs, like the inside of a spherical dome, will &lt;em&gt;quickly fail&lt;/em&gt; as soon as you lose most or all of the overlap - expect them to hard-fail at &lt;code&gt;arctan(lw/lh)&lt;/code&gt; (63° in 0.4/0.2 case) since the material will just be dragged inward around the curve with nothing to stick to. You might get a little bit more overhang if there's already a horizontally adjacent extrusion in the new layer for the material to stick to, but in my experience it will be unreliable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Convex overhangs, on the other hand, can work out even when they're extreme. This is because the curvature of the toolhead path pulls the new material towards/against a region where it has existing material to bond to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keep in mind that layer height is a free parameter you can tune, that greatly increases the overhang available to you. Some slicers also have &amp;quot;adaptive layer height&amp;quot; settings to use thinner layers precisely in the layers that have severe overhangs. Line width is also a parameter you can tune, and increasing it works in your favor up to a point. But once you get to a point where the &amp;quot;wider than nozzle&amp;quot; line is attempted over thin air, it will fail badly, sagging down rather than expanding to the desired width, and not bonding to adjacent lines. So if you use wider lines to get better overhangs, you need to be very attentive not to go over angles that would place their centers off of the previous layer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastEditorUserId="11157" LastEditDate="2022-04-11T14:37:08.687" LastActivityDate="2022-04-11T14:37:08.687" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19230" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19221" CreationDate="2022-04-12T17:11:54.730" Score="0" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Within reason, yes&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can't put the printer down 100 % even, that's ok. The most crucial thing is, that during the whole operation the resin level in the printer does never get over the edge of the print basin and that at the lowest level, everything is covered still. It's still better to settle the printer as even as possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastActivityDate="2022-04-12T17:11:54.730" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19232" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19228" CreationDate="2022-04-13T13:08:22.067" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you ook into the &lt;a href=&quot;https://multimedia.3m.com/mws/media/1732017O/3m-vhb-tape-design-guide-eu.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;VHB design document&lt;/a&gt;, the section &lt;em&gt;&amp;quot;How to Prepare Specific Surfaces&amp;quot;&lt;/em&gt; describes how to treat the surface:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/laL53.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/laL53.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For higher adhesion, a primer should be used according to the document.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.can-dotape.com/resources/surface-preparation-to-ensure-a-successful-bond/#:%7E:text=In%20the%20majority%20of%20situations,before%20applying%20the%20adhesive%20tape.&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;This reference&lt;/a&gt; describes that roughing up plastic parts can be beneficial for the adhesion of some tapes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Abrade the Surface:&lt;/strong&gt;  Roughing up the surface (i.e. sanding) will loosen up any accumulated dirt, rust, or chipped paint.  It will aid in the adhesion to painted surfaces or plastic items.  A finely- abraded surface with shallow scratches created by a circular motion (rather than straight lines) has the best potential for a strong and persistent bond.  This method can create up to a 40 % increase in surface area and can result in greater immediate and long-term bonding potential.  Scrub pads, fine steel wool, or sandpaper can achieve the right level of abrasion.  A palm sander could be helpful for larger jobs.  Avoid using coarse abrasive materials because a too-rough substrate may inhibit the adhesive flow onto the surface.   Always clean with the IPA/Water solution, or other solvents, and make sure all loose particles are removed.  While it is not typical, some high-bond tapes adhere best to smooth, glassy surfaces, so double check with the manufacturer before you abrade the surface and compromise the bond strength.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both references describe the use of a cleaning solution based on 50 % water and 50 % IPA.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A higher temperature is beneficial for obtaining the bond strength faster, the VHB design document shows that increasing temperature shortens the time when the full bond strength is reached:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BQL8G.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BQL8G.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2022-04-14T06:56:50.497" LastActivityDate="2022-04-14T06:56:50.497" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19234" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-04-14T17:28:14.107" Score="2" ViewCount="183" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an old custom 3D printer that I bought a new hotend for since the old one broke, and apparently, I made a mistake.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The old hotend had insulation on it that prevented it from melting the mounting point on the printer itself, but the new one is all metal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I heated up the new head for the first time it melted the mounting point and fell out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When is the best solution for my case?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there some insulation I can put on the new head? I can't find another insulated head anywhere.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25390" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2022-04-14T19:21:13.293" LastActivityDate="2022-04-15T05:06:35.057" Title="Hotend melting mount" Tags="|hotend|heat-management|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19235" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2022-04-14T21:45:51.480" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2022-04-14T21:45:51.480" LastActivityDate="2022-04-14T21:45:51.480" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19236" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2022-04-14T21:45:51.480" Score="0" Body="For questions regarding the slicer program LycheeSlicer" OwnerUserId="13883" LastEditorUserId="13883" LastEditDate="2022-04-15T11:36:15.747" LastActivityDate="2022-04-15T11:36:15.747" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19237" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19234" CreationDate="2022-04-15T05:06:35.057" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hotends need insulation. Not just to prevent melting the mounting bracket, but:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;To prevent heat loss to the air, especially with part cooling fans active, that could reduce the ability to heat or even trigger thermal runaway protection from complete inability to increase temperature beyond a point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;To prevent dumping heat on the printed part, which fights with your part cooling fan and greatly diminishes its effectiveness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the very least, the heater block needs a silicone sock. You can also use high temperature ceramic fiber or &amp;quot;rock wool&amp;quot; insulation like you'd use for an oven or kiln, and/or just layers of aluminum foil (which reflects a lot of the heat, while air pockets between layers provide insulation).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To find an appropriate sock for your hotend, search for its model name together with &amp;quot;silicone sock&amp;quot;. You can also make your own using high-temperature RTV silicone (for example Permatex 81878) and a mold if you have a block with odd dimensions that nobody seems to be selling socks for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In your question you mentioned &amp;quot;all metal&amp;quot;. In the context of hotends, &amp;quot;all metal&amp;quot; generally doesn't mean that there is no non-metal insulation or other material attached or that it's not okay to attach such, just that there is no PTFE or other material that can't handle high temperatures in direct contact with the hot parts. It's perfectly reasonable (and necessary) to put proper insulation on an all-metal hotend.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2022-04-15T05:06:35.057" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19238" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19239" CreationDate="2022-04-15T13:32:31.390" Score="2" ViewCount="215" Body="&lt;p&gt;As an engineer I was initially interested in making parts. For example I designed and printed a better part for something which wasn't available locally, and even had a client who wanted 150 of them. But print time was 23 hours per part. and I didn't have full confidence in the robustness of the part. The layer lines are a big weakness and anything less than 3 mm is so flimsy that it's a waste of time. So robust performance parts are out. As are high tolerance ones. Build volume makes it even less useful. And the design compromises you have to make are difficult to justify if there are other ways.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then with other network parts I thought of designing the vast majority needed other bits and pieces, screws, shafts, connectors in metal that I'd need to source and assemble. Enclosures were okay, but weak, and I can fabricate those stronger and faster in other ways.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So now I mainly just print to what I perceive to be 3D printings strengths and have almost given up on parts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has anyone had a different experience?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31811" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2022-04-17T05:11:52.313" LastActivityDate="2022-06-07T12:55:27.227" Title="Under what circumstances are 3D printed parts actually viable with a desktop printer in comparison to other production methods?" Tags="|print-quality|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19239" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19238" CreationDate="2022-04-16T01:37:22.633" Score="3" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Under what circumstances&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When your part has internal geometry that would be difficult and expensive to reproduce using other methods. For example fishing lures which need internal water channels. Fittings or covers that would normally require several parts to be sealed together could be simplified to a single part and gasket.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When your part is a complex shape but has no need to be particularly robust because it doesn't come under stress.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you need a part that you can design with a specific weight and shape you can control the weight with the infill percentage and other factors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When your part is a niche one that goes with 3d printing strengths. Such as short term or single use items like name plates for conferences, key ring giveaways. Items of novelty value etc,.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the part is not just functional, you may want a simple functionality in an ornate part for promotional, branding, or other reasons. I was tasked to create a container of certain dimensions. I could have done this a number of ways. But they also wanted their logo and a bunch of designs along a particular theme incorporated into it. Only with 3d printing was this able to be accomplished.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31811" LastEditorUserId="31811" LastEditDate="2022-04-17T05:53:08.570" LastActivityDate="2022-04-17T05:53:08.570" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19240" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19238" CreationDate="2022-04-16T05:33:28.030" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;A production run of parts is generally a bad idea.  The 3d printed part works as a proof of concept, testing measurements and tolerances even if the printed part can never take the load/pressure of the proper part.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The costs are also significant - filament is ridiculously expensive for what it is, and the power costs of running the heaters for 23 hours per part add up too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also rapidly iterate on a design without having to wait days/weeks for a fab shop to cast/machine/make it out of metals.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I find myself integrating 3d printed parts into a larger build using other items.  Example, 8x printed blocks with holes sized to epoxy to metal tubes, then covered with stitched fabric held down by hook&amp;amp;loop to the frame.  Buying those parts would be okay, if they existed to find in the first place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're under time constraints for something and can't wait for the proper item to arrive from a supplier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Sometimes &amp;quot;good enough&amp;quot;  is literally true.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To paraphrase... &lt;br&gt;&lt;sup&gt;When it's after midnight and I need this part right now goshdangit!&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12956" LastActivityDate="2022-04-16T05:33:28.030" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19242" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19238" CreationDate="2022-04-16T15:13:02.550" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As an engineer I was initially interested in making parts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First of all, a lot of people who need &amp;quot;parts&amp;quot; (I'll define that term as something playing a physical functional role in the operation of the thing it goes in or becomes a part of) are not engineers, and don't have routers, lathes, saws, drill presses, etc, available to them. A decent 3D printer is comparable in price to a couple small low-end power tools, but the range of what parts it can make is a lot broader, and it can make them with a lot less tool-use and safety expertise necessary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But a 3D printer is also potentially a very useful tool here even if you are an engineer and even if you do have access to a large toolbox:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;When you need the part in quantities larger than one, but too few to make by injection molding or other mass production techniques, 3D printing is one of the few solutions that's not prohibitively labor intensive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Some types of parts are difficult to produce with techniques other than 3D printing due to geometry that's not conducive to molding or subtractive manufacture techniques.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But print time was 23 hours per part.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3D printing has a reputation for being slow. It doesn't have to be that way. At present, unless you're willing to become an expert with the tool or spend a lot of money buying something high-end, you're probably stuck with it being slow. But this is changing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I didn't have full confidence in the robustness of the part. The layer lines are a big weakness and...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is another area where the field has progress to be made. Weak layer adhesion and inconsistency of part strength are problems caused mostly by a mix of bad slicers, bad slicing setting defaults, and bad extruders. The first two can be mostly mitigated with some expertise using the slicer; the latter is a matter of spending more on the printer or knowing what to upgrade on a cheap printer and doing it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;...anything less than 3mm is so flimsy that it's a waste of time. So robust performance parts are out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I use printed herringbone gears that are just 4 mm thick, with pitch of pi mm (making tooth thickness about half that), in my printer's extruder drive train, which is a fairly demanding application with momentary speeds up to about 4000 rpm. And that's without any &amp;quot;engineering&amp;quot; plastics, just basic materials like PLA and PETG.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Aside from that, I use a lot of other printed parts for less-stressed roles on my printer, and outside of my printer, I have printed housing for various electronics, custom fluid hose couplers, replacement door closer mounting brackets, replacement soft feet and end caps (TPU) for patio furniture, impact-protection phone and tablet cases (in TPU) for models where it's hard to obtain mass-prouced ones with necessary features or fit for where the items are being used, etc. I'm not sure what of this qualifies as &amp;quot;parts&amp;quot; to you, but I think most of it meets the definition I opened this answer with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One particularly underappreciated class of parts I'd like to highlight here is soft parts made with TPU or other flexibles. TPU is extremely durable, and at hardness 95A or above can even be quite rigid when printed at 100% infill. It holds up really well under abrasion, exposure to weather, and exposure to oils etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Build volume makes it even less useful&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is really dependent on the scale of things you're working with. 3D printed parts seem more appropriate to me at the scales where build volume is not a limiting factor. Most of the people I encounter using printers with large build volume are using them mostly to do whole plates of parts at a time (for example, parts for building printers) rather than single large parts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you do need large parts, however, 3D printing can still play an important role, producing jigs or molds to use with other tools and materials.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastEditorUserId="11157" LastEditDate="2022-04-17T02:45:56.503" LastActivityDate="2022-04-17T02:45:56.503" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19243" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19223" CreationDate="2022-04-16T16:29:11.353" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Recently, ran into the same issue on Ender 3 V2 after flashing Klipper. Default Marlin had no issues but klipper was grinding the Y axis after every print when it goes to Y235... it could only go to Y230&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After a lot of digging it turned out that Ender end-switch is 5mm off before the actual physical end.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;End up fixing it with the following settings in &lt;code&gt;printer.cfg&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;[stepper_y]&#xA;step_pin: PB8&#xA;dir_pin: PB7&#xA;enable_pin: !PC3&#xA;microsteps: 16&#xA;rotation_distance: 40&#xA;endstop_pin: ^PA6&#xA;position_endstop: 5 #End-stop is not at 0&#xA;position_max: 235 #If endstop is 0 235 will grind&#xA;position_min: 5 #Prevents moving to 0 and griding in this direction&#xA;homing_speed: 20&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't know what the equivalent for Marlin is. Good luck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="33849" LastActivityDate="2022-04-16T16:29:11.353" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19244" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-04-16T18:01:41.387" Score="2" ViewCount="164" Body="&lt;p&gt;In &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/19222/chitubox-stopped-slicing-files-correctly&quot;&gt;this question&lt;/a&gt;, I was struggling with my printer not recognizing sliced files. Switching from ChituBox to Lychee solved the issue until the printer stopped recognizing the .ctb files sliced by Lychee as well. Something clicked and it occurred to me that perhaps I shouldn't have set up the Saturn profile and print on a Saturn S. (I'm currently printing on the smaller Saturn build plate since my Saturn S build plate is currently out of commission.) I switched to the Saturn S profile initially set up. Lo and behold, the printer was recognizing the file again!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I figured the printer profiles in slicer software simply adds optimized print settings (like exposure times, retraction settings, build volume, etc.) to serve as a solid starting point and the user could tweak from there as needed. However, since my sliced files were not being recognized using the Saturn profile, it seems that there's more to these profiles than just print settings. Do any firmware or hardware considerations go into creating the .ctb files? It reminds me of compiling code to specific architectures back in my computer science days.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13883" LastActivityDate="2022-05-16T21:03:00.277" Title="Are there printer firmware specifics when adding printer profiles to slicer software?" Tags="|slicing|resin|chitu|lychee|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19245" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19222" CreationDate="2022-04-16T18:11:49.243" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;After a week of consternation, I finally figured it out. I had to order a new build plate since the original got cured resin on it and is no longer a flat surface. Elegoo does not sell replacement Saturn S build plates (which are larger) but sells replacement Saturn plates.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To avoid trying to print on an absent portion of the build plate, I added the Saturn profile to my slicer software. Not a lot of models will need that extra 2 mm of build plate edges, but I'd rather have the slicer figure out the orientation of the model on a smaller plate than do it manually myself. I assumed that these profiles were just for entering optimized print settings (exposure times, build volume, etc.) and that the Saturn and Saturn S were close enough that I could cut this corner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have been slicing under the Saturn profile, which results in &amp;quot;unrecognized file format&amp;quot; errors. It dawned on me that perhaps I should not use that profile so I sliced with my previously working Saturn S profile. Printer recognized the format, model was previewed, and it is currently printing right now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, if you are slicing models and your printer stops recognizing the sliced files, perhaps you are on the wrong profile. I asked &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/19244/are-there-printer-firmware-specifics-when-adding-printer-profiles-to-slicer-soft&quot;&gt;this question&lt;/a&gt; to see if anyone knows the particulars behind these profiles since it seems they are more than just the printer settings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13883" LastActivityDate="2022-04-16T18:11:49.243" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19246" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-04-16T19:06:18.417" Score="4" ViewCount="2622" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an Ender 3 V1 3D printer. When I first got the printer and assembled it, I was able to get very good prints. My post is specifically about horizontal layer lines, and initially with my printer, I didn't see any horizontal layer lines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are some pics of my last good print:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xuxeK.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Good benchy 1&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xuxeK.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Good benchy 1&quot; title=&quot;Good benchy 1&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zlcmv.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Good benchy 2&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zlcmv.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Good benchy 2&quot; title=&quot;Good benchy 2&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then, I introduced some changes to my printer. Namely, I got the SKR mini e3 V3.0 and added some other things like a rear electronics box, Octoprint with a Raspberry Pi, an LED light strip, and more. During the time of these upgrades, my printer was down until I completed all of the upgrades, which also included the disassembly of some parts of the printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ever since completing those upgrades, I've had uneven horizontal lines on my prints.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7ynkn.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Horizontal Line 1&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7ynkn.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Horizontal Line 1&quot; title=&quot;Horizontal Line 1&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HIOiF.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Horizontal Line 2&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HIOiF.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Horizontal Line 2&quot; title=&quot;Horizontal Line 2&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ihwy1.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Horizontal Line 3&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ihwy1.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Horizontal Line 3&quot; title=&quot;Horizontal Line 3&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uFwc0.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Horizontal Line 4&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uFwc0.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Horizontal Line 4&quot; title=&quot;Horizontal Line 4&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LqIle.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Horizontal Line 5&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LqIle.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Horizontal Line 5&quot; title=&quot;Horizontal Line 5&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Kfadd.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Horizontal Line 6&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Kfadd.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Horizontal Line 6&quot; title=&quot;Horizontal Line 6&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8CB7t.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Horizontal Line 7&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8CB7t.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Horizontal Line 7&quot; title=&quot;Horizontal Line 7&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've tried so many things, it's unbelievable. I've printed hundreds of calibration cubes and have adjusted many things.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My upgrades:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Yellow bed springs&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Metal extruder&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Glass bed&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;SKR mini e3 V3.0&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;BLTouch&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Octoprint&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;LED light strip&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Flexible Z-rod coupler&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Anti-backlash nut&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Things I've tried:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lowering flow rate, including dramatic changes&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bed PID autotune&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hotend PID autotune&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;E-steps calibration&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Flow rate calibration&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Acceleration calibration&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cleaned the Z-rod many times and re-lubed it to varying degrees&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tried a different Z-rod&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Printed a Z-motor spacer&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Checked alignment of the Z-rod in terms of distance&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tightened the belts many times, to varying degrees to test what produced the best results. Everything from very tight to loose&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Adjusted the eccentric nuts in many ways, from less tight to more tight&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Changes the wheels on the X and Y axes&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tried Prusa Slicer and Cura Slicer&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tried multiple different rolls of PLA filament&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tried some different slicer settings, like increasing the minimum layer time&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tried different hotend printing temperatures&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Levelled my bed many times&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Put my 4.2.2 board back, and produced horizontal lines as well&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Increased stepper currents&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Changed the extruder tensioner spring&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Changed the nozzle many times&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Changed the PTFE tube&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Made sure to the best of my ability that the PTFE tube was well seated with the nozzle&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Linear advance calibration&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tried turning off linear advance&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rebuilt my printer twice using CHEP's video&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I've followed Teaching Tech's calibration guide&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tried printing from the SD card instead of Octoprint&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use my own custom Marlin. But also tried BTT's pre-compiled firmware&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And probably many other things that I just don't immediately recall.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another thing to note is that I really haven't printed much with this printer. I got it a few months ago, and I haven't printed much with it. So there are not many hours on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm at a point where I don't really know what to do. I have some parts on the way to do the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Dual Z-Axis upgrade&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Petsfang V2 cooling duct upgrade&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I really don't know what to do at this point. I've been genuinely considering buying a brand new printer and throwing the one I have out the window. I'm really frustrated that I can't get a good print anymore.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've posted multiple times on some other places, and I've gotten good advice that I've applied. That did not fix the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would appreciate any insight into the problem. If I can't find a solution here, and the above two upgrades don't do anything, then I'm not sure what I'll do with the printer and hobby in general.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="32347" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2023-02-24T19:03:15.757" LastActivityDate="2024-03-22T04:08:10.963" Title="Can't get rid of horizontal layer lines?" Tags="|creality-ender-3|print-quality|calibration|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="15" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19247" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19244" CreationDate="2022-04-16T20:37:30.413" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I reached out to Lychee (didn't even think to ask Chitu but the answer is probably something similar). The guy's response was basically:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The ctb file has some data inside that allows it to be printed only on a specific printer. V4 is even encrypted... To add a pinch of fun for us. Supporting it was not an easy task.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anycubic for example use the ctb format too but each printer has its own file extension to avoid any confusion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the file does have model-specific parameters so one has to match the correct printer profile to the physical printer model, even if the printers are only slightly different as is the case with Elegoo Saturn and Saturn S.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In Lychee and ChituBox, one can set the build volume. So instead of using the Saturn profile for the smaller build plate, add a new printer, select Saturn S model, rename it to something that reminds you that it's the smaller build plate, then change the build volume x and y values to match the build plate. In Lychee, the x and y dimensions can be edited even in the free version (the pro version is required to change the z dimension).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13883" LastActivityDate="2022-04-16T20:37:30.413" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19248" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19238" CreationDate="2022-04-16T22:48:18.590" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Outside of hobbyist objects the only commercially useful use of 3D printing that I can think of is in support of prototyping new parts or products that will ultimately be produced by other methods.  If an engineering team is developing something new that may require a few iterations to get form and fit perfected, 3D printing is a viable way to make changes relatively quickly as the design process progresses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Things that support mass production methods such as molds, dies, jigs, CNC scripts, etc. are expensive and time consuming compared to 3D modeling and printing and typically must await a finalized design.  Prototyping with 3D printed parts is a reasonably rapid way to get to that point with the assurance that a hold-it-in-your-hands prototype provides.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another thought has occurred to me - geocaching containers.  Geocaching - stashing things in odd places for others to find using published GPS coordinates, clues and hints - is a popular pastime and custom containers are always a welcome change from the usual pill bottles or food storage containers. I've made dozens for a friend who hides geocaches. I'm not entirely certain whether this market would be commercially viable but it's a big hobby. As I understand it there currently are over 1 million active geocaches in the US and probably tens of thousands of enthusiasts hiding them and/or seeking them out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="33030" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2022-06-07T12:55:27.227" LastActivityDate="2022-06-07T12:55:27.227" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19249" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10564" CreationDate="2022-04-17T06:05:05.767" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The upgrade described under:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the same time, I installed a custom piece and bearing on top of the Z-axis to make it more rigid&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is not an upgrade. It is best to decouple the movement from the eccentricity of the screw and nut from the X-axis. If you constrain the top, instead of leaving it free, the screw is over constrained, this causes unpredictable movement of the nut and hence defects in your printed object. Decoupling of the screw can be done by &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2910524&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Oldham style couplings&lt;/a&gt; or specific &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2588347&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;lifting parts&lt;/a&gt;. I've used both to experience increased print quality, the X-Y movement of the nut doesn't get transferred to the hotend carriage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The couplers can be printed or commercially obtained.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/a0BWg.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/a0BWg.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2022-04-17T06:05:05.767" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19250" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-04-17T22:29:13.127" Score="0" ViewCount="40" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am interested in printing a brain that contains 696 parcels (i.e., chunks that break up the total brain).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The .obj file was created such that each of these parcels are spatially separate. Do you have recommendations for printing these parcels such that they are slightly connected, i.e., having the parcels be connected yet still being able to see most of the grooves in between them? I hard coded the .obj file in R/Python. Do you have recommendations for easy redesign of this 3D file to accomplish this goal?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would like for all parcels to be one solid piece when printed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is an image to get a sense of the object. &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wwa5a.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wwa5a.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks. I am new to 3D printing so any advice would be appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="33866" LastActivityDate="2022-04-17T23:29:46.837" Title="Method to easily connect objects that are slightly spatially separate in .obj file" Tags="|troubleshooting|3d-models|3d-design|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19251" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19250" CreationDate="2022-04-17T23:29:46.837" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If it doesn't need to come apart again then I'd just boolean union them with some spheres so that they're one object. With the spheres all internal so you keep all the outside detail.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All 3d software I have seen can do this although the specifics vary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31811" LastActivityDate="2022-04-17T23:29:46.837" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19252" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19253" CreationDate="2022-04-18T10:50:11.667" Score="2" ViewCount="1232" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to print out a flat object without any support structure straight onto the build plate of my ender 5. It's going to be PLA and I need it to be thin enough to still be flexible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't have a picture available, but imagine that I wanted to print out the Coke Cola and then wrap it around a bland soda can, so that the logo is raised up slightly?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively, what is the best layer height to use, and how many layers should I use?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="29097" LastActivityDate="2022-04-18T23:41:40.473" Title="How thin should I print a logo so that it is flexible enough to wrap around a curved object?" Tags="|layer-height|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19253" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19252" CreationDate="2022-04-18T10:54:05.267" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;With PLA you can just heat it to curve around the object. I've done this with up to 2mm. Real easy with 1mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I haven't tried thicker but assume it would work ok.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'd have to glue it though to make it stick. My attempts were just to shape the prints, I didn't want them sticking so I shaped them around a glass bottle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want it flexible in it's own right, then I suggest 2 * 0.2mm layers. I have a large 2 layer print in front of me that bends easily.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xFUUn.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xFUUn.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;2 layers&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This can be rolled up into a tube, but as soon as you let go it will return to flat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1 layer is even more flexible but tears along the lines with a bit of effort. So if you want it really flexible I suggest you print 1 layer at slightly lower than normal nozzle height to really get the lines melded together. Or a bit hotter than normal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31811" LastEditorUserId="31811" LastEditDate="2022-04-18T11:21:24.783" LastActivityDate="2022-04-18T11:21:24.783" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19254" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19252" CreationDate="2022-04-18T23:41:40.473" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;1 layer, of whatever thickness your device can print.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did something like this to print letters for a flat sign.  The letters were 1mm thick and didn't bend, but I'd accidentally printed quite a lot of brim lines which were a single layer thick, and they'd merged into each other.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The brim worked superbly as a &amp;quot;net&amp;quot; to hold the letters in place, so in theory you could print as little as one layer thick.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Nozzle height will have to be exactly right to merge the lines together.  There are no lines crossing-over on the next layer to help bond them all together.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Let the print bed cool to ambient before removing it from the bed, to help keep the lines connected.  Could take an hour or so.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use a wide flat scraper to pull job off bed - you might want to design in a &amp;quot;tab&amp;quot; that can be damaged while getting the tool started, and trimmed of later.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12956" LastActivityDate="2022-04-18T23:41:40.473" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19255" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-04-19T01:02:48.713" Score="10" ViewCount="3780" Body="&lt;p&gt;In looking at 3D printer motions systems, I've seen linear rails with codes like MGN15H and MGN9C. What do the letters and numbers mean?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="33672" LastEditorUserId="8353" LastEditDate="2022-04-23T11:44:03.967" LastActivityDate="2022-04-23T11:44:03.967" Title="What do linear rail codes mean?" Tags="|hardware|linear-motion|terminology|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19256" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19257" CreationDate="2022-04-19T01:43:10.483" Score="3" ViewCount="195" Body="&lt;p&gt;Will build surfaces coated in PEI lose their qualities, such as adhesiveness, if left unused but removed from packaging for long periods of time?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="33672" LastActivityDate="2022-04-19T04:22:03.273" Title="Do unused PEI sheets degrade over time?" Tags="|build-plate|build-surface|pei|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19257" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19256" CreationDate="2022-04-19T04:22:03.273" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The PEI will be fine. It's widely used in industrial high impact, high heat and high repetitiveness parts because it doesn't degrade easily. Probably some in your car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31811" LastActivityDate="2022-04-19T04:22:03.273" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19258" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19255" CreationDate="2022-04-19T13:02:17.343" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;code&gt;MG&lt;/code&gt; stands for minature guideway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;code&gt;N&lt;/code&gt; signifies &lt;em&gt;narrow&lt;/em&gt;, whereas &lt;code&gt;W&lt;/code&gt; means &lt;em&gt;wide&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, there is &lt;code&gt;MGN&lt;/code&gt; and &lt;code&gt;MGW&lt;/code&gt;. You may also see &lt;code&gt;BMN&lt;/code&gt; which is equivalent to &lt;code&gt;MGN&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The numbers, i.e the &lt;code&gt;9&lt;/code&gt; and &lt;code&gt;15&lt;/code&gt;, refer to the &lt;em&gt;track width&lt;/em&gt;. The widths are: 5 mm; 7 mm; 9 mm; 12 mm, and; 15 mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The final letter, i.e. &lt;code&gt;C&lt;/code&gt; and &lt;code&gt;H&lt;/code&gt;, refer to the &lt;em&gt;length of the block&lt;/em&gt;, where &lt;code&gt;C&lt;/code&gt; is the shorter version, whereas &lt;code&gt;H&lt;/code&gt; denotes the longer elongated block which can distribute the load better (as it contains more bearings). These two lengths of the block can be seen compared, in the image below, which shows (from left to right) track widths of 15, 12, 9 and 7 mm, respectively:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/358zJ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Diagram of linear rails showing block length&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/358zJ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Diagram of linear rails showing block length&quot; title=&quot;Diagram of linear rails showing block length&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000825866716.html?spm=a2g0o.detail.1000014.3.8dd51e8eaVCjXI&amp;amp;gps-id=pcDetailBottomMoreOtherSeller&amp;amp;scm=1007.40050.281175.0&amp;amp;scm_id=1007.40050.281175.0&amp;amp;scm-url=1007.40050.281175.0&amp;amp;pvid=9bac72d5-25b9-4efb-ad8e-25ae21a6d0a7&amp;amp;_t=gps-id:pcDetailBottomMoreOtherSeller,scm-url:1007.40050.281175.0,pvid:9bac72d5-25b9-4efb-ad8e-25ae21a6d0a7,tpp_buckets:668%232846%238110%231995&amp;amp;pdp_ext_f=%257B%2522sku_id%2522%253A%252210000008652037746%2522%252C%2522sceneId%2522%253A%252230050%2522%257D&amp;amp;pdp_pi=-1%253B3.28%253B-1%253B-1%2540salePrice%253BGBP%253Brecommend-recommend&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Source&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Note that there is an error in the diagram for the 7 mm rails&lt;/em&gt; - the lengths of the blocks (22.5 and 30.8 mm) have been, obviously, reversed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A detailed description of the product code is shown below:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Wnuqh.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Linear rail product code dissection&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Wnuqh.png&quot; alt=&quot;Linear rail product code dissection&quot; title=&quot;Linear rail product code dissection&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Source: &lt;a href=&quot;http://motioncontrolsystems.hiwin.us/Asset/MG-Series-Catalog.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Hiwin&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other features of the rails may need to be considered, such as their profile (square or round) and the bearings (cantilever or saddle), amongst other things:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your choice includes the profile of the rails, commonly square or round. It involves the kind of bearings, either cantilever or saddle slides, plus the stroke, load, speed, duty cycle, mounting area, and of course the mounting orientation, simply because the saddle could potentially move horizontally, vertically, along a wall mount, or even be inverted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Source: &lt;a href=&quot;https://sandfieldengineering.com/news/2020/what-is-a-linear-rail/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;What is a Linear Rail?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4762" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2022-04-19T20:38:13.460" LastActivityDate="2022-04-19T20:38:13.460" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19260" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-04-19T16:31:35.990" Score="1" ViewCount="194" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am new to 3D printing. I had a big issue with the full hotend: thermocouple broke, the fan broke, plastic everywhere... (I don't really know why as hundreds of prints were good before)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway, I decided to replace the full hotend (2 fans + thermocouple + cartridge). I have the issue of nozzle temp. rising to max value very fast (250 °C defined as max temp. to not exceed in my printer setup). PID autotune failed because of this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I checked my printer, it is a 24 V supply (Tevo Tornado)! When I measure the resistance of the old cartridge, it is 40 Ohms and the new one is 4 Ohms. I would like to replace it but really don't know how to do with the 8-pin connector...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know if the new hot end is for 12 V or for 24 V power supply but I thought it was not a problem anyway with my 24 V supply... I am completely lost here...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could you help me with this issue?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="33885" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2022-04-19T21:40:10.383" LastActivityDate="2022-04-19T21:40:10.383" Title="PID fails too hot temperature with new hotend on Tevo Tornado" Tags="|hotend|electronics|heat|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19261" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-04-19T17:35:46.733" Score="0" ViewCount="212" Body="&lt;p&gt;Questions like this are &lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;usually&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt; not allowed but since the price of a brass nozzle in Switzerland is 15.90 and the average price of a nozzle from Alibaba or AliExpress is less than 0.10, and nozzles are something you exchange frequently the issue becomes of such magnitude that we &lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;need&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt; to have a simple answer to the very straightforward question:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do nozzles from China offer the same quality and results?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30842" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2022-04-20T00:30:16.717" LastActivityDate="2022-04-20T00:30:16.717" Title="Cheap nozzles bought from China" Tags="|nozzle|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19262" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19261" CreationDate="2022-04-19T17:44:25.403" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Up until this year, I used the cheap nozzles - the original that came with my Ender 3, and both the ones that were supposedly by Creality and appeared identical to it, and similarly cheap ones off Amazon. I never had any problem with them that I attributed to nozzle quality, but I went through them fairly quickly since they were so cheap, just swapping one out if it got a lot of buildup that was hard to clean off rather than bothering to clean it well. I would say they are perfectly usable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, if you're already used to paying more for a nozzle, I would &lt;strong&gt;strongly&lt;/strong&gt; recommend ditching plain nozzles and going with the Bondtech CHT. The performance and quality improvement from it is &lt;strong&gt;drastic&lt;/strong&gt;. It gives more improvement to flow than going from a standard size block to a volcano size block (see &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UNJdv5bFGOg&amp;amp;ab_channel=CNCKitchen&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Stefan's tests on CNC Kitchen&lt;/a&gt;), and a lot less backpressure, so you can get by with lower values for Pressure Advance/Linear Advance, which put less stress on the extruder and get more consistent extrusion. In terms of ratio of printing performance boost to price (not to mention ease of installation), it's probably the single best upgrade you can make to a printer. And while it's not a special durable material, it is coated, which makes it a little bit better than plain brass.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastEditorUserId="30842" LastEditDate="2022-04-19T17:55:53.113" LastActivityDate="2022-04-19T17:55:53.113" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19263" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19260" CreationDate="2022-04-19T19:31:02.967" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;A heater cartridge with a resistance of 4 Ohms (including the cables) is designed for use with a 12 Volt system. When installed on a 12 Volt system, it will have a power output of around 40 Watts. This will increase to 160 Watts if it is installed on a 24 Volt system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3953" LastActivityDate="2022-04-19T19:31:02.967" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19264" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19261" CreationDate="2022-04-20T00:15:58.657" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use cheap brass nozzles through the &amp;quot;A&amp;quot; place and they are almost certainly Chinese.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When installing a new nozzle I use a drill bit in a pin vise in the large counter-drilled hole on the top side, pressing pretty hard to assure there are no drill chips in there, either loose or still attached. I follow that with a nozzle cleaning pin of the appropriate size, then a good blast of Dust-Off or the equivalent from the &amp;quot;W&amp;quot; place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I get reasonable nozzle life and performance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my case nozzle replacement is nearly always from blockage, almost never from wear so I've  never considered it worthwhile to use premium nozzles with better wear resistance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="33030" LastActivityDate="2022-04-20T00:15:58.657" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19265" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-04-20T02:24:51.737" Score="1" ViewCount="1291" Body="&lt;p&gt;My stock extruder motor feed mechanism had started to shave the filament but not feed correctly. I order a REDREX Tech dual gear all-metal extruder to fix the problem. I ordered a hobby gear puller, removed the press-fit brass gear, and now have yet another problem. The shaft on the Ender 3D Pro is not long enough on the stepper motor to ensure the grub screw engages at the proper height with the idler gear. I'm anticipating having to shave a flat spot on the shaft (with a Dremel Tool) to ensure the grub screw does not hinder the 360-degree rotation of either of the two gears but now need to know how to order a motor with a shaft long enough to do this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The literature that accompanied the REDREX Tech showed a 22 mm shaft height. I checked this with my digital micrometer and found I only have 13.5 mm of the shaft on this Creality-provided OEM stepper motor.  So how or where may I order a replacement stepper motor with the shaft longer by about 10-12 mm? Does the stepper motor 42-40 need to be a 42-50 where the second set of digits is the required extra 10 mm length of the shaft?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="33894" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2022-04-20T07:14:30.653" LastActivityDate="2022-09-17T09:05:30.437" Title="Ender 3D Pro extruder stepper motor shaft length" Tags="|maintenance|repair|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19266" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19265" CreationDate="2022-04-20T07:54:59.403" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Steppers are sized by the dedicated &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/National_Electrical_Manufacturers_Association&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;standards&lt;/a&gt;, for a NEMA 17 stepper (most frequently used in 3D printers) the width and depth are 42 mm. This is the 42 from the designated naming found by Creality steppers (42-40, 42-50, 42-60, etc.).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The second set of digits in the naming relates to the stepper body height (in the image below, this is the &lt;code&gt;L&lt;/code&gt; dimension), not the overall height! The shaft has its own dimensions, usually these are about 22 mm, but Creality has ordered custom made steppers with shorter shafts with press fitted filament extruder gears (see &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/15131/problems-with-stock-gear-with-no-screw-on-ender-3-pro&quot;&gt;Problems with stock gear with no screw on Ender 3 pro&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does the stepper motor 42-40 need to be a 42-50 where the second set of digits is the required extra 10 mm length of the shaft?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No, the second set of digits doesn't relate to the overall height of the stepper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do note that the naming is short for the &lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/wiki/NEMA_Motor&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;model number&lt;/a&gt; which is usually much longer, e.g. JK42HS40-1004AC-01F, you see the width/depth and length back in the model name. Note that generally speaking, larger length steppers create more torque, the longer the motor the higher the torque (exceptions apply when different gauge wiring in the stepper is used).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/a1FIY.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;NEMA 17 dimensions&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/a1FIY.png&quot; alt=&quot;NEMA 17 dimensions&quot; title=&quot;NEMA 17 dimensions&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/S6Byc.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;A 42-40 stepper motor&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/S6Byc.png&quot; alt=&quot;A 42-40 stepper motor&quot; title=&quot;A 42-40 stepper motor&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The following image gives an overview of the steppers used by Creality models. As can be seen, they do not always use the typical D-shaft steppers, but also steppers with round shafts, this makes it more difficult to attach pulleys with grub screw without creating a flat spot on the shaft. Note that double shafts means that there is a shaft on both sides of the stepper motor, this is convenient for attaching a knob for manual positioning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6PRAL.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Steppers used by Creality models&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6PRAL.png&quot; alt=&quot;Steppers used by Creality models&quot; title=&quot;Steppers used by Creality models&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2022-04-20T07:54:59.403" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19267" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19268" CreationDate="2022-04-20T10:18:24.720" Score="0" ViewCount="807" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to figure out if it's worth buying a 3D printer or using an online printing service like e.g. &lt;a href=&quot;https://treddy.it&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this one&lt;/a&gt; in the long run. Anyone have any cost analysis?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="33896" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2022-04-20T18:49:15.563" LastActivityDate="2022-04-22T06:55:17.810" Title="Advantages of buying a 3D printer versus using online services" Tags="|cost|services|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19268" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19267" CreationDate="2022-04-20T11:38:08.777" Score="2" Body="&lt;h1&gt;It depends&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it is worth to invest in a print made for you compared to getting a printer depends on the needs you have. Thee can be informed by the type of material you want to print and the requirements that has on you. Let me give you some examples when it is simply worth it to pay:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A metal printer costs in the thousands: upper five-digit for the most baseline and &lt;a href=&quot;https://all3dp.com/2/how-much-does-a-metal-3d-printer-cost/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;averaging in the low to mid-6-digit&lt;/a&gt;. Ordering a single or few printed pieces will be economical, and even ordering &lt;strong&gt;many&lt;/strong&gt; parts will still be well below break-even, considering that the material sets you back by up to 600 \$ per kilo!&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A nylon powder printer &lt;a href=&quot;https://all3dp.com/1/best-sls-3d-printer-desktop-industrial/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;starts in the middle 4-digits but easily goes up to upper 5-digits and even middle 6 digits&lt;/a&gt;. Ordering for a small-scale production this way still will be economical.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Some specialty plastics need printers with very high-temperature chambers and hotends with extreme wear resistance. Such machinery can easily cost five digits, especially in large dimensions where it goes to six. Compared to purchasing price of the machine, ordering the part will be cheaper.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other hand, getting a printer gets cheaper once you:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;use it sufficiently, for example, to iteratively modify a designed part or produce a medium variety of parts.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;have the time and money to spare to learn and tweak your machine to do what you want.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the amount of parts you want to make would cost you more to have ordered than a new printer, or a substantial portion thereof. For an FDM machine, the first useful machines can be priced as low as 150 \$, while 300 \$ gets you a somewhat capable Ender 3 v2 - which has developed into some kind of &lt;em&gt;standard unit&lt;/em&gt; for printers.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also note, that some printing services have limits on what they will produce. Commonly they will not provide services to manufacture tools or items that might violate local law or make it trivially to do so, for example copying keys or even manufacturing Keyblanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2022-04-20T18:55:38.767" LastActivityDate="2022-04-20T18:55:38.767" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19269" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11634" CreationDate="2022-04-20T11:42:24.987" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The typical consensus is that you increase the layer flow initially for better adhesion, though from my experience I &lt;strong&gt;decrease&lt;/strong&gt; it!&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;My first layer is printed at between 70-75 % layer flow, this gives the best adhesion and best visuals when printing with ASA or ABS.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;From layer 2 on I've 105 % layer flow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason is that my first layer is printed &amp;quot;officially&amp;quot; at 0.27mm but in reality, it's more like 0.05 mm thickness. That's manually finetuned while printing after a material change, basically, the thickness is adjusted for perfect grip on the build plate.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;When left at 100 % flow rate this will cause ripples or waves on the bottom, it's excess material that builds up along the printed lines.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;At 70 % the wrong initial distance is compensated (visually) while maintaining perfect adhesion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Conclusion: Fine-tune your printer and settings for each material used, a general answer is not possible. Especially true for difficult materials like ABS, ASS, or Nylon.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;The best is to watch the printer while it is printing and adapt the mechanical properties first, then fine tuning the flow rates.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="33898" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2022-04-20T13:03:44.640" LastActivityDate="2022-04-20T13:03:44.640" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19270" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-04-20T13:49:33.777" Score="3" ViewCount="940" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been trying for days to get my BTT SKR2 board to work with both dual Y &amp;amp; Z-axis and independent end stops (2 per axis). The Y-axis does independent homing just fine no matter which way the gantry is aligned. On the Z-axis, however, two scenarios are present:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;if my left Z-stepper homes first and triggers the left Z-endstop, it stops the right Z2-stepper and the right Z2-endstop is never triggered. This leaves the machine in a pause state while it waits for the Z2-stepper to trip the Z2-endstop which, of course, will never happen as Z2-stepper has stopped moving having been triggered by the Z-endstop.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If the right Z2-endstop is triggered by the Z2-stepper first, the z2-stepper will continue to spin until the left Z-stop trips. The strangest thing is that when I look at the state of the machine as output by the &lt;code&gt;M119&lt;/code&gt; code, each endstop shows exactly as they are supposed to. It is as though the left Z-endstop controls both Z-steppers and Z2-steppers, and the right Z2-endstop only resolves the 'pause' state when the left Z-endstop has already been triggered.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please provide any insights you may have ...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Board: SKR2 RevB&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Stepper Drivers: TMC5160&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Build: MPCNC Lowrider with&#xA;dual Y and Z axis -- aspiring to independent homing abilities&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Firmware: Marlin 2 Configuration version 02000903&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Machine configuration:&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Stepper motors X,Y,Z,Y2,Z2 using XM, YM, ZAM,ZBM, E0M&#xA;ports respectively&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;End Stops X,Y,Z,Y2,Z2 using PC1, PC3, PC0,&#xA;PA0,PC15 ports respectively&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For reference, here are the salient settings in Marlin Version 02000903&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;code&gt;Configuration.h&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;//============================== Endstop Settings ===========================&#xA;// @section homing&#xA;#define USE_XMIN_PLUG&#xA;#define USE_YMIN_PLUG&#xA;#define USE_ZMIN_PLUG&#xA;#define USE_YMAX_PLUG&#xA;#define USE_ZMAX_PLUG&#xA; &#xA;#define X_MIN_ENDSTOP_INVERTING false // Set to false to invert the logic of the endstop.&#xA;#define Y_MIN_ENDSTOP_INVERTING false // Set to false to invert the logic of the endstop.&#xA;#define Z_MIN_ENDSTOP_INVERTING false // Set to false to invert the logic of the endstop.&#xA;#define X_MAX_ENDSTOP_INVERTING false // Set to false to invert the logic of the endstop.&#xA;#define Y_MAX_ENDSTOP_INVERTING false // Set to false to invert the logic of the endstop.&#xA;#define Z_MAX_ENDSTOP_INVERTING false // Set to false to invert the logic of the endstop.&#xA; &#xA;Stepper Drivers&#xA;#define X_DRIVER_TYPE TMC5160&#xA;#define Y_DRIVER_TYPE TMC5160&#xA;#define Z_DRIVER_TYPE TMC5160&#xA;// #define X2_DRIVER_TYPE TMC5160 // 20220414 : JHH : remove&#xA;#define Y2_DRIVER_TYPE TMC5160&#xA;#define Z2_DRIVER_TYPE TMC5160&#xA; &#xA;// @section extruder&#xA;// For direct drive extruder v9 set to false, for geared extruder set to false.&#xA;#define INVERT_E0_DIR false&#xA;#define INVERT_E1_DIR false&#xA;#define INVERT_E2_DIR false&#xA;#define INVERT_E3_DIR false&#xA;#define INVERT_E4_DIR false&#xA;#define INVERT_E5_DIR false&#xA;#define INVERT_E6_DIR false&#xA;#define INVERT_E7_DIR false&#xA; &#xA;// @section homing&#xA;#define X_HOME_DIR -1&#xA;#define Y_HOME_DIR 1&#xA;#define Z_HOME_DIR -1&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;code&gt;Configuration_Adv.h&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;/ #define X_DUAL_STEPPER_DRIVERS&#xA;#if ENABLED(X_DUAL_STEPPER_DRIVERS)&#xA;// #define INVERT_X2_VS_X_DIR // Enable if X2 direction signal is opposite to X&#xA;// #define X_DUAL_ENDSTOPS&#xA;#if ENABLED(X_DUAL_ENDSTOPS)&#xA;#define X2_USE_ENDSTOP _XMAX_&#xA;#define X2_ENDSTOP_ADJUSTMENT 0&#xA;#endif&#xA;#endif&#xA;&#xA;#define Y_DUAL_STEPPER_DRIVERS&#xA;#if ENABLED(Y_DUAL_STEPPER_DRIVERS)&#xA;#define INVERT_Y2_VS_Y_DIR // Enable if Y2 direction signal is opposite to Y&#xA;#define Y_DUAL_ENDSTOPS&#xA;#if ENABLED(Y_DUAL_ENDSTOPS)&#xA;#define Y2_USE_ENDSTOP _YMIN_ &#xA;#define Y2_ENDSTOP_ADJUSTMENT 0&#xA;#endif&#xA;#endif&#xA;&#xA;//&#xA;// For Z set the number of stepper drivers&#xA;//&#xA;#define NUM_Z_STEPPER_DRIVERS 2 // (1-4) Z options change based on how many&#xA;&#xA;#if NUM_Z_STEPPER_DRIVERS &amp;gt; 1&#xA;// Enable if Z motor direction signals are the opposite of Z1&#xA;//#define INVERT_Z2_VS_Z_DIR&#xA;//#define INVERT_Z3_VS_Z_DIR&#xA;//#define INVERT_Z4_VS_Z_DIR&#xA;&#xA;#define Z_MULTI_ENDSTOPS&#xA;#if ENABLED(Z_MULTI_ENDSTOPS)&#xA;#define Z2_USE_ENDSTOP _ZMAX_ &#xA;#define Z2_ENDSTOP_ADJUSTMENT 0&#xA;#if NUM_Z_STEPPER_DRIVERS &amp;gt;= 3&#xA;#define Z3_USE_ENDSTOP _YMAX_&#xA;#define Z3_ENDSTOP_ADJUSTMENT 0&#xA;#endif&#xA;#if NUM_Z_STEPPER_DRIVERS &amp;gt;= 4&#xA;#define Z4_USE_ENDSTOP _ZMAX_&#xA;#define Z4_ENDSTOP_ADJUSTMENT 0&#xA;#endif&#xA;#endif&#xA;#endif&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;code&gt;pins_BTT_SKR_V2_0_Common.h&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;/&#xA;// Trinamic Stallguard pins&#xA;//&#xA;#define X_DIAG_PIN PC1 // X-STOP&#xA;#define Y_DIAG_PIN PC3 // Y-STOP&#xA;#define Z_DIAG_PIN PC0 // Z-STOP&#xA;// shifted EO diag to E1 etc..&#xA;#define E1_DIAG_PIN PA0 // Y2-STOP&#xA;#define E2_DIAG_PIN PC15 //Z2-Stop&#xA; &#xA;//&#xA;// Limit Switches&#xA;//&#xA;#ifdef X_STALL_SENSITIVITY&#xA;#define X_STOP_PIN X_DIAG_PIN&#xA;#if X_HOME_TO_MIN&#xA;#define X_MAX_PIN PC2 // E0DET&#xA;#else&#xA;#define X_MIN_PIN PC1 // E0DET&#xA;#endif&#xA;#elif ENABLED(X_DUAL_ENDSTOPS)&#xA;#ifndef X_MIN_PIN&#xA;#define X_MIN_PIN PC1 // X-STOP&#xA;#endif&#xA;#ifndef X_MAX_PIN&#xA;#define X_MAX_PIN PC2 // E0DET&#xA;#endif&#xA;#else&#xA;#define X_STOP_PIN PC1 // X-STOP&#xA;#endif&#xA; &#xA;#ifdef Y_STALL_SENSITIVITY&#xA;#define Y_STOP_PIN Y_DIAG_PIN&#xA;#if Y_HOME_TO_MIN&#xA;#define Y_MAX_PIN PA0 // E1DET&#xA;#else&#xA;#define Y_MIN_PIN PA0 // E1DET&#xA;#endif&#xA;#elif ENABLED(Y_DUAL_ENDSTOPS)&#xA;#ifndef Y_MIN_PIN&#xA;#define Y_MIN_PIN PC3 // Y-STOP&#xA;#endif&#xA;#ifndef Y_MAX_PIN&#xA;#define Y_MAX_PIN PA0 // E1DET&#xA;#endif&#xA;#else&#xA;#define Y_STOP_PIN PC3 // Y-STOP&#xA;#endif&#xA; &#xA;#ifdef Z_STALL_SENSITIVITY&#xA;#define Z_STOP_PIN Z_DIAG_PIN&#xA;#if Z_HOME_TO_MIN&#xA;#define Z_MAX_PIN PC15 // PWRDET&#xA;#else&#xA;#define Z_MIN_PIN PC15 // PWRDET&#xA;#endif&#xA;#elif ENABLED(Z_MULTI_ENDSTOPS)&#xA;#ifndef Z_MIN_PIN&#xA;#define Z_MIN_PIN PC0 // Z-STOP&#xA;#endif&#xA;#ifndef Z_MAX_PIN&#xA;#define Z_MAX_PIN PC15 // PWRDET&#xA;#endif&#xA;#else&#xA;#ifndef Z_STOP_PIN&#xA;#define Z_STOP_PIN PC0 // Z-STOP&#xA;#endif&#xA;#endif&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="33899" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2023-12-18T23:44:42.717" LastActivityDate="2023-12-18T23:44:42.717" Title="How to get dual Z, dual Y steppers and dual endstops working on Marlin?" Tags="|marlin|bigtreetech|endstop|skr-v2|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19271" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19267" CreationDate="2022-04-20T14:07:07.717" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just one experience from a few years ago. I needed a single, very small part to repair a game accessory. The repair clip stl file was available on Thingiverse. I went to a local commercial 3D printing service for a quote. The quoted price?  $75!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I ordered my 3D printer a week later.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="33030" LastActivityDate="2022-04-20T14:07:07.717" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19272" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19267" CreationDate="2022-04-20T22:07:28.907" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would think it depends on your future needs. If you will rarely need things printed then online is more convenient than buying a printer and doing the whole learning curve, storing materials etc,.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From what I have seen online, most people printing are not printing things they actually need.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to produce things to sell, then you're better off doing it yourself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31811" LastActivityDate="2022-04-20T22:07:28.907" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19273" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19267" CreationDate="2022-04-21T01:09:05.163" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;One of the biggest reasons to buy a 3D printer vs using a printing service is one of the biggest advantages 3D printing has over other manufacturing methods: &lt;strong&gt;rapid prototyping&lt;/strong&gt;. If you operate a 3D printer you own to make parts you're designing yourself, you can really iterate a design in realtime, immediately measuring results (tolerances/fit, strength, working of mechanisms, etc.) and be printing the next version to test it a few minutes after the first one finishes. If part of the result you need is something you can visually evaluate during the print, you can even be working on the next iteration while the previous one prints. Most of the parts I do are small enough, and my printer fast enough, that during design iteration both myself and the printer stay busy pretty much 100% of the time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're sending designs off to a printing service, you lose out on this aspect of 3D printing. If you don't get things exactly right the first time, you either have to do all the fixup with non-automated tools, or you're out a lot of money and have to wait for another order cycle all over.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This might of course make sense and be okay if you're really good at checking your work before sending it off, or if you're mostly ordering prints of things someone else already designed and tested previously.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2022-04-21T01:09:05.163" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19277" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-04-21T07:57:27.643" Score="0" ViewCount="421" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm building a larger format printer with a heated bed. The bed size will be 1080 x 1080 mm. It will be mounted on a 40 x 40 mm aluminum T-slot frame. I was thinking of using an Aluminium Precision Tooling Plate something like 5083. I'm not sure what thickness I should go for. I was thinking 10 mm but maybe I should go up to 12 mm to avoid warping at higher temps? I've seen some manufacturers go up to 16 mm but isn't that overkill perhaps? Does it seem like it's a balance between heating times and warping?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="33905" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2022-04-21T13:00:30.460" LastActivityDate="2024-01-11T16:00:30.090" Title="Large format heated bed" Tags="|heated-bed|build-plate|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19278" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19277" CreationDate="2022-04-21T11:23:59.020" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Warping is caused by a heat differential within the aluminium. Not really dependent on it's thickness. If it's heated uniformly it will expand uniformly. So I assume manufacturers are suiting their aluminium plates to their heating systems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31811" LastActivityDate="2022-04-21T11:23:59.020" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19279" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18380" CreationDate="2022-04-21T16:03:28.803" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not sure what the other answers are talking about. From the picture, your nozzle is just way too far from the bed and the extruded material is just barely making contact. Adjust it so that, when moved to position Z=0.2, there is exactly 0.2 mm between the nozzle tip and the bed. Then fine-tune with single-layer test prints.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having the nozzle way too far from the bed is probably why you've found a need to jack your bed temperature up so high. Don't do that! 80 °C bed is not usable at all for PLA; it will keep the first 5-10 mm of the print above its glass transition temperature permanently (for the duration of the print), precluding any hope of it holding a proper shape. 60 °C is the absolute max you should ever use for PLA, and even that's too high to avoid warping. If your nozzle distance is right and you're using a textured (e.g. Buildtak or generic clone) build surface, PLA should adhere to a &lt;em&gt;cold&lt;/em&gt; bed (not heated at all). Without that you probably need 45-55 °C.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2022-04-22T14:40:50.380" LastActivityDate="2022-04-22T14:40:50.380" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19283" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19267" CreationDate="2022-04-22T06:55:17.810" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is probably cheaper for a business to order 3D prints than to pay an employee to get up to speed, unless that business is doing new designs regularly. This is especially true if the parts need to look professional, or need to use challenging materials (like anything other than PLA, PETG, maybe TPU).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the business does buy a 3D printer, it can be economical to get a more prosumer model, than to pay an employee to futz with a consumer printer to coax good print quality out of it, or spend additional time modifying it- a 300 dollar printer can turn into a 1500 dollar printer with enough things going wrong or needing to be upgraded.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When evaluating the true price of an in house 3D printed part to a business, it’s important to include employee time interacting with the machine and post processing: file prep, slicing software work, prepping bed, loading filament, preheating bed, watching the first layer go down. Oh wait, it got messed up? Start again.  Once printing, time spent checking in on it, then time spent unloading filament, hand post processing (trimming a brim, removing goobers, zits, strings, drilling out precision holes). It is a hands on process, especially with consumer machines. Producing parts on the clock, I figure between 40 minutes (everything runs perfect) to two hours (Murphy’s law) of human interaction for a one-off part. Batches of more than one can be less, I had little clam shell enclosures done in batches of 6 come out to about 45 minutes of labor apiece to the company, ultimately (once 3D printer was dialed in).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another factor of overhead is a 3D printer needs a space for it to live.&#xA;-Near ventilation if using noxious materials&#xA;-with enough table space to have a computer near it, and some hand tools, and a clear area to post process the parts&#xA;-away from employees bothered by the sound&#xA;-where it can be checked on easily&#xA;-where it doesn’t get cold in the winter, to the point where low ambient temperatures cause warping&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note, some of these space requirements can be sidestepped by printers with prosumer features: WiFi transfer of gcode to the machine (computer doesn’t need to be near printer), full insulated enclosures (cold ambient temperature resistance and less noise) with air filtration (may not need ventilation for fumes).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Business ownership of a 3D printer can be a waste if there isn’t someone on staff that is mechanically inclined and can use a CAD package. Without CAD skill prints are limited to what independent contractors design for the company (and who may themselves own their own 3D printer), or things that can be downloaded from the internet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As an asset, it can be difficult to sell a 3D printer for anywhere near what it is worth, especially with aftermarket modifications. They are large and heavy and delicate so local sales are preferred over shipping, which severely restricts the market, especially outside urban areas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not a business? Time on your hands? Go for it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27077" LastActivityDate="2022-04-22T06:55:17.810" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19284" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-04-22T15:23:32.067" Score="1" ViewCount="73" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got a bottle of UV resin that got left at the back of  draw and forgotten about. It's probably 6 months out of its advertized use by date.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is likely to happen if I try to print with it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's Elegoo standard Black.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="29097" LastActivityDate="2022-04-22T15:23:32.067" Title="What happens if you try to print with UV resin that's well past it's use by date?" Tags="|print-material|resin|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19288" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-04-24T00:05:12.327" Score="1" ViewCount="914" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking to get printed a design for a coffee mug, which needs to be dishwasher safe, microwavable safe, and safe to drink out of. What kind of filament or equipment would give these properties? If not, is there a company that offers such services?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="33928" LastEditorUserId="33928" LastEditDate="2022-05-01T23:31:29.897" LastActivityDate="2022-05-01T23:31:29.897" Title="Printing in Material That Is Safe to Drink From/Dishwasher/Microwave Safe" Tags="|filament-choice|food|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19289" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19288" CreationDate="2022-04-24T01:59:35.317" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You need to find a company like this.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/k2Xh3.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/k2Xh3.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Image from Istock&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or you could 3D print clay yourself, there are clay 3D printers online.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31811" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2022-04-24T07:09:04.263" LastActivityDate="2022-04-24T07:09:04.263" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19291" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-04-26T02:31:48.223" Score="4" ViewCount="3979" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my previous research for mods for my Ender 3v2, I came across the topic of part cooling mods. The two most common are the Petsfang and Hero Me sets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;What are the pros and cons of third-party/DIY part cooling mods?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;What benefit does having a third-party/DIY part cooling mod provide?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23193" LastActivityDate="2022-04-26T14:47:32.627" Title="Pros/Cons of 3D printed part cooling mods" Tags="|print-fan|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19292" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19291" CreationDate="2022-04-26T04:07:07.307" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Part cooling is essential to print at any decent &lt;em&gt;vertical speed&lt;/em&gt; (layers per second), which is critical if you do rapid prototyping of small parts or vase mode prints. This is because you can't (repeatedly) print on top of material that hasn't yet cooled enough to be rigid; if you do, after a few layers, you'll find nothing is in the right place and it's all a bunch of goo getting dragged around by the nozzle. In fact, if the part is small enough you might not be able to print it at all. That's because, while slicers have features to slow down to guarantee a minimum layer time for cooling purposes, if the hot nozzle sticks around in the vicinity of a tiny part the whole time, just the heat from the nozzle will keep it from properly solidifying.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Ender 3 (and as far as I know, the v2 as well, along with just about every other Creality printer) has &lt;em&gt;pitiful&lt;/em&gt; stock cooling. It's off-center from the nozzle, and aimed more at the nozzle itself rather than the part below it, so that it saps heat out of the hotend (making the heater work harder and reducing your max achievable flow) at the same time it's (barely) cooling the print. So upgrading it is desirable. But, as you've guessed, there are cons too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Some, especially those utilizing the stock 4010 fan, &lt;em&gt;reduce airflow&lt;/em&gt; by constricting the airway too much. The 4010 does not really have the power to compress the air much, so if the airway cross-sectional area decreases along the way, that will reduce flow. Does the increase in focus/delivery to the right place make up for the lost flow? Maybe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Some &lt;em&gt;focus the air too narrowly&lt;/em&gt; while increasing its pressure, delivering high-pressure air to a still molten point on the print. This can actually cause the extruded material to bend in the direction the air is pressing it before it cools enough to solidify, giving an inaccurate print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Large fans and ducts add mass to the toolhead, which can increase ringing, especially if they're not sufficiently rigid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Many of the cooling mods mount awkwardly to the toolhead in ways that interfere with the motion of the carriage, reducing total build volume.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If the cooling mod blows on/over the heater block, it can reduce melting performance and pour heat onto the part you're trying to cool. Most try to avoid doing this, but you may find you want additional insulation around the block if you use more powerful part cooling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some people will also tell you that &amp;quot;too much cooling&amp;quot; will harm your print quality, hurting layer adhesion, making the print warp, etc. I use a rather extreme cooling system and have not encountered such problems that can't be remedied with a slight increase to the nozzle temperature, yielding better overall quality and equal strength to what I would have gotten with lower fan. But I print just PLA, PETG, and TPU, so it's likely that this could be an issue with other materials like ABS or nylon. If so you can always reduce the fan speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2022-04-26T04:07:07.307" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19293" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="645" CreationDate="2022-04-26T06:08:45.503" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you set skirt setting to 'none', it will get you up to full bed area -1 mm at the edges, so, for example, 198x198 instead of 200x200.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You need to go to 'Travel' and set 'Travel avoid distance' to zero to get the full 200x200, or whatever, bed area.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="33947" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2022-04-26T06:12:25.727" LastActivityDate="2022-04-26T06:12:25.727" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19294" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19291" CreationDate="2022-04-26T07:12:40.767" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cooling duct design is not well understood by either the 3D printer OEMs (exceptions may apply) nor by the aftermarket cooling options or most of the  homebrew designs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem is the lack of the understanding in aerodynamic design. Note that the fans that we use to produce the cooling flows are pushing flow, they do not create a large pressure difference. So with not too much pressure difference you should avoid long ducts and sharp bends in the flow path, narrowing of duct annuli or (you should) narrowing the duct annuli when air is bled out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looking at many of the options available, it is clear that many of these design rules are not taken into account.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2022-04-26T07:12:40.767" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19295" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2022-04-26T08:11:19.843" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The build surface is the surface that is in contact with the deposition of the molten filament in FFF. In SLA this is the film the first layer sticks too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A typical layout for a build platform for e.g. a Prusa i3 style printer can be seen in the image below.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/smp4P.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/smp4P.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2022-04-26T08:11:19.843" LastActivityDate="2022-04-26T08:11:19.843" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19296" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2022-04-26T08:11:19.843" Score="0" Body="The surface the print is created on as part of the build platform." OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2022-04-26T08:11:19.843" LastActivityDate="2022-04-26T08:11:19.843" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19297" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19291" CreationDate="2022-04-26T12:52:56.790" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The best 3D printed cooling solution actually is not used generally - and it can be rather loud. I am talking pretty much the very same setup one uses in a CNC-mill to spray or mist cooling liquid on the item. That's either flood cooling (with a full jet) or mist cooling (with a mist). Just, in this case, using air hoses and a compressor or air pump, it's best called &amp;quot;airblast&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In such a setup, all the ducts are extruded tubings, the nozzles are metal and the only 3D printed part is a holder for these parts. But how is this loud? It's often loud because this setup needs a compressor to run and push air through the air hoses. And compressors can be rather loud.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2022-04-26T14:47:32.627" LastActivityDate="2022-04-26T14:47:32.627" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19299" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-04-26T17:38:53.277" Score="1" ViewCount="209" Body="&lt;p&gt;When printing using FlashPrinter v4 or v5, the second layer of the model is not with respects to the first layer's thickness nor height. This can result in the second layer being below the first, the second layer being 100 % overlapping with the first, or the second layer can be marginally higher than the first. The example below will show the second layer overlapping 100 % with the first layer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The goal is to not have the printer head scrape through the first later or applying unintentional smoothing/melting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eY4qI.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;First Layer of model print&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eY4qI.png&quot; alt=&quot;First Layer of model print&quot; title=&quot;First Layer of model print&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZI4pM.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Second Layer of model print&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZI4pM.png&quot; alt=&quot;Second Layer of model print&quot; title=&quot;Second Layer of model print&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These are my layer settings. Relevant raft settings are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Space to Model (Z) = 0.30 mm&lt;/em&gt;, and&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Top Layers - Layer Height = 0.30 mm&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/29gwL.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Model Layer Settings&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/29gwL.png&quot; alt=&quot;Model Layer Settings&quot; title=&quot;Model Layer Settings&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="33957" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2022-04-26T21:20:07.690" LastActivityDate="2022-04-26T21:20:07.690" Title="FlashPrint Slicer: Second layer overlapping with first layer" Tags="|layer-height|flashprint|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19300" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19818" CreationDate="2022-04-26T19:45:35.450" Score="2" ViewCount="1239" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently installed Octopi on my Raspberry Pi 4 and noticed some unusual behavior in that I lose the Wifi connection every 5-10 minutes immediately after boot. Once disconnected, I cannot re-establish the connection because my network's SSID doesn't even appear in the network list anymore. The only way I can re-establish the connection is to reboot the device.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With that said, I did find a troubleshooting discussion of similar problems at octoprint.org: &lt;a href=&quot;https://community.octoprint.org/t/octopi-losing-network-connection-mid-print/16315&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;OctoPi losing network connection mid-print&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Following the various advice, I must have tried about 12 different things, but none of them have fixed my issue. At first, I thought that wifi power-save mode was the most likely culprit. &lt;code&gt;iw wlan0 get power_save&lt;/code&gt; indicated that power-save mode was turned on, but then I turned it off with &lt;code&gt;iw wlan0 set power_save off&lt;/code&gt; and the wifi &lt;em&gt;still&lt;/em&gt; disconnects.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Going a step further, I set up a script to run the &lt;code&gt;iw&lt;/code&gt; command right after boot so that the change is made permanent, but that didn't work either.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other troubleshooting attempts I tried:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Verified there is adequate power&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Configured with settings for hidden&#xA;SSID (even though mine is not hidden)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Set up a reconnection script&#xA;that doesn't work because it can't find the network&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Properly set up&#xA;regional settings&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am at my wit's end.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for my setup, I have an 8 GB Raspberry Pi 4 and am using an image of OctoPi 0.18.0 with OctoPrint 1.7.3. This I downloaded and imaged onto a 128 GB micro-SD card using the Raspberry Pi Imager. My wifi network is 2.5 GHz secured with WPA2 with a visible SSID and is definitely within close range. One way that I know that it is not a hardware issue is because I have another image with the Raspberry Pi OS 64-bit version and wifi works just fine when I run that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for Octopi, one atypical difference is that I &lt;em&gt;am&lt;/em&gt; running it with a desktop. It may be that, for whatever reason, perhaps that particular distribution of RPi OS has a major bug in it? If so, then maybe I do have a solution, but I don't want to run without a desktop because I have a nice setup on my 3D printer that includes a touch screen. Given that is the case, could I maybe use the 64-bit Raspberry Pi OS and just load OctoPrint onto it with &lt;code&gt;sudo apt-get [package-name]&lt;/code&gt; or something like that?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any additional troubleshooting advice is much appreciated, but I suspect that not much else will work. I am not a greenhorn when it comes to linux-bases systems, but this is my first time trying out an image using Octopi.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="33855" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2022-04-27T07:17:39.533" LastActivityDate="2022-08-24T12:24:35.140" Title="Wifi goes down in Octoprint after 5-10 minutes with reboot required to reconnect" Tags="|octoprint|raspberry-pi|wi-fi|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19301" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19305" CreationDate="2022-04-26T20:10:26.357" Score="1" ViewCount="3737" Body="&lt;p&gt;I need to print parts that fit together very well on the Longer LK5 Pro. However, after printing a Benchy, I noticed that whatever I print has a lot of imperfections. Is there any way I can fix this? All I know about the printing conditions was that I was printing at 230 °C nozzle temperature with 60 °C bed temperature. I was using PLA+. I was also printing the Benchy file that comes with the Longer LK5 printer. I tried tightening the Y-axis belt, that moves the bed, and the wheels on the bottom of the bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are pictures of my Benchy:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/K7a2T.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Top View&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/K7a2T.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Top view&quot; title=&quot;Top View&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Cm7Jt.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Left hand side view&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Cm7Jt.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Side view&quot; title=&quot;Left hand side view&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZYNXx.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Bottom view&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZYNXx.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Bottom view&quot; title=&quot;Bottom view&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3KTtu.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Right hand side view&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3KTtu.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Right hand side view&quot; title=&quot;Right hand side view&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="33960" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2022-04-27T07:45:01.363" LastActivityDate="2022-08-22T17:18:11.257" Title="How to tune Longer LK5 Pro for smoother prints?" Tags="|extruder|bed-leveling|stepper|belt|longer-lk5|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19302" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5312" CreationDate="2022-04-26T22:41:24.563" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As mac's answer says, this is &lt;strong&gt;coasting&lt;/strong&gt;, but contrary to that answer, &lt;strong&gt;coasting is not good&lt;/strong&gt;. At one time (that answer was written way back in 2018 when the state of software was much worse than it is now), it was an idea a number of people accepted as reasonable, but it was operating at the wrong layer, and was a very bad hack, necessarily extruding less material than needed to accurately construct the part being printed. Leading to exactly what OP saw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Nowadays, printer firmware has a feature called Linear Advance (Marlin) or Pressure Advance (Klipper) that can be calibrated with test prints and compensates for the increased backpressure when extruding fast - or more importantly, seen from the other direction, the reduced backpressure when slowing down at the end of an extrusion path, that results in continued oozing after the extrusion was supposed to end. This feature eliminates the need for hacks that underextrude and produces very accurate extrusion regardless of changes in speed or flow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyone experiencing problems like OP hit should check that their profile does not have coasting (and hacks meant to compensate in the other direction for problems it causes, like &amp;quot;extra prime&amp;quot;) enabled in the slicer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2022-04-26T22:41:24.563" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19303" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19301" CreationDate="2022-04-27T04:55:11.517" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;230 is very hot for PLA+ and the pictures look like it's printing too hot for a start. It's hard to tell if there are other issues until that basic one has been cleared up. Where did you get the instructions for 230 degrees?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suggest printing at 200 degrees or perhaps 210 degrees and then moving forwards from those results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31811" LastActivityDate="2022-04-27T04:55:11.517" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19304" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-04-27T06:35:38.707" Score="3" ViewCount="385" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have not used external stepper drivers yet, but I am using them in a new build.  I have an optional stepper driver that will be connected to a stepper motor for a rotary attachment.  Can I leave the stepper driver connected to the power supply, but disconnect the optional stepper motor when not in use?  Will powering the external stepper driver without a motor attached fry the driver?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4307" LastActivityDate="2022-04-27T06:35:38.707" Title="Can I power an external stepper driver without motor connected?" Tags="|stepper-driver|stepper|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19305" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19301" CreationDate="2022-04-28T03:23:35.843" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.longer3d.com/products/lk5-pro-fdm-3d-printer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Looking up your printer&lt;/a&gt;, one thing I noticed is that it has power loss recovery. This feature writes to the SD card at the start of each new layer, stalling the print for at least a significant fraction of a second with the filament unretracted, which will make a nasty blob wherever the toolhead happens to be positioned. Absolutely turn this off. It's impossible to get quality prints with that feature on. If there's no menu option to turn it off, you'll have to rebuild the firmware or get alternate firmware from someone else.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It looks like you have moderate overextrusion. If the esteps were tuned, you probably adjusted them too much in the direction to increase extrusion and should reset to the factory setting and calibrate again, erring on the side of less extrusion rather than more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a number of places (especially on the cabin) where some walls are inset relative to where the wall was supposed to be, and where it's present in other layers. This is almost surely a result of losing material to oozing in the interior of the model, as a result of &amp;quot;combing&amp;quot;. See &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/11005/11157&quot;&gt;this answer&lt;/a&gt; for details.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the hull (especially the bow), it looks like you might be experiencing the consequences of numerical precision bugs in Cura, which result in erroneous tiny segments that break up smooth traversal of curves, leaving blobs where the toolhead stutters. Watch during printing and see if the nozzle is stuttering (suddenly slowing down then speeding up again) along these curves. If so, make sure the Maximum Resolution and Maximum Deviation settings are 0.5 and 0.025 respectively. These are the modern Cura defaults that avoid the problem, but some profiles (and some older versions of Cura) have values that trigger the bugs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2022-04-28T03:23:35.843" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19306" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19312" CreationDate="2022-04-28T12:45:04.880" Score="1" ViewCount="168" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a very eccentric, weird, unusual and strange idea. I need some advice and serious professional help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm interested in 3D printing in PLA a hollow complex structure with 0.2 thickness walls (Yes! That thin!). Fill it with very fine copper powder with a little borax powder thoroughly mixed. Use superglue to join halves or other shell pieces together, making sure the powder is very well compacted. Then in a separate container I want to make some thin plaster of Paris (calcium sulfate with a lot of water). Mix in it, some of my trimmed hair (about 5mm in length). No joke. Seriously. Please, I'm begging you with all my heart, hear me out! There's a very good useful reason for doing it. I then place the object (3D printed flimsy crappy shell filled with copper powder) in a DIY drywall box and pour in the plaster over the 3D printed shell object until the box is filled and object completely covered. Leave it to dry and completely solidify for a day. Then I bake the entire thing in a furnace making sure I'm over the copper melting temperature and voila! 3D printing in copper very complex intricate models with ease. Can it be that easy? Or am I deluding myself?&#xA;The hair purpose, after it will burn inside the plaster while in the furnace, is to create very thin tubules or air holes for water and gases to escape and to prevent cracking of the plaster under intense heat. I don't want to use hay because the straws are too thick. I have to use very thin organic straws. I just can't think of anything more accessible than my hair. Do you know of something even thinner and more accessible than human hair? Please let me know. I know it sounds and looks very odd, weird and strange. I'm opened to alternatives or other suggestions, otherwise I wouldn't be here making a fool of myself with such an insane ridiculous idea.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was thinking to add some form of additional volume above the object, which is connected to the model by some thin hollow tube. All this volume (like an empty cube (shell) ) will also be filled with very fine copper powder providing additional melted copper to the model, in the case if the powder was not very well compacted inside the shell model.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could this absurd ridiculous insane crazy idea work? I have never heard of anything like this. This is so bizarre and strange. It seems to be some form of odd mix of multiple techniques. But besides all this, will it work in the end? Will the plaster hold while some of it(depends on the model) will be inside molten copper? Or do I have to mix in the plaster, not just hair, but also some individual singular fine strands of steel wool?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know who and where to ask such a thing. Am I in the right place? I don't know what this idea is, I don't know how to name it, I don't know how to ask or formulate this idea, I don't know how to google it or search it. I don't know anything. I really need some guidance, help and advice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="33977" LastEditorUserId="33977" LastEditDate="2022-04-28T15:35:14.900" LastActivityDate="2022-05-04T18:02:42.573" Title="The weirdest DIY 3D metal printing" Tags="|pla|metal-printing|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19307" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19306" CreationDate="2022-04-28T16:15:48.583" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;I think this is just an overcomplicated lost-PLA (investment) casting.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What you're asking for is to create an object, create a mold around it, and then burn out the object and replace it with metal.  Traditionally this is done with wax, &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lost-wax_casting&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;and called lost-wax casting&lt;/a&gt;, but the same can be done with anything that melts/burns away, including PLA.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rather than worrying about burning hairs and pressure and compaction of metal powder, print a model, and use the correct kind of plaster (a search for &amp;quot;investment casting plaster&amp;quot; will get you going down the right path) to make your mold.  Heat the metal powder in a crucible, instead of the mold itself, and pour it through the expansion/extra material tube you were talking about.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7384" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2022-05-04T18:02:42.573" LastActivityDate="2022-05-04T18:02:42.573" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19308" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-04-28T17:38:36.063" Score="2" ViewCount="614" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a semi-diy hotend setup on my MOOZ-2 (an obscure chinese printer). It requires that the total nozzle length (including threading) is longer than 15 mm. So far, I've been using Volcano nozzles because they're the only ones I can find that meet this requirement. However I believe this negatively impacts performance because they stick out way beyond the heater block (see picture below). Unfortunately, the next size I can find are MK8 or V6 nozzles which are 13 mm - too short! Are there any nozzle sizes in between that I could use?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IN5df.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IN5df.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Nozzle setup&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9084" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2022-04-28T18:43:34.213" LastActivityDate="2022-04-29T17:28:03.517" Title="Are there any nozzles shorter than volcano but longer than MK8?" Tags="|extruder|diy-3d-printer|hotend|nozzle|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19309" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19308" CreationDate="2022-04-28T18:46:46.687" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes there are, the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.dobot.cc/dobot-product-accessories.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;vendor of the printer&lt;/a&gt; sells 17 mm length spare nozzles for reasonable prices.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1owWJ.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1owWJ.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2022-04-29T06:42:18.767" LastActivityDate="2022-04-29T06:42:18.767" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19310" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19308" CreationDate="2022-04-28T23:47:13.823" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Could you get an extender made? That would give a larger metal body to hold and conduct heat to the nozzzle tip better, and would allow you to use standard nozzles. What I'm thinking is a cylinder of around 9-12 mm diameter, with one end machined then tapped to be M6 external thread, and the other tapped as M6 internal thread, with a 2 mm hole through the center. If you know someone who has or has access to a lathe and taps, they should be able to do it for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastEditorUserId="11157" LastEditDate="2022-04-29T17:28:03.517" LastActivityDate="2022-04-29T17:28:03.517" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19311" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19029" CreationDate="2022-04-29T01:52:56.477" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Why not use a database online with a filament consumption counter?&#xA;See this &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.etsy.com/ca/listing/1216011789/fdb-22-3d-printers-filament-consumption?ga_order=most_relevant&amp;amp;ga_search_type=all&amp;amp;ga_view_type=gallery&amp;amp;ga_search_query=FDB-22&amp;amp;ref=sr_gallery-1-1&amp;amp;organic_search_click=1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;link&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can create a database without buying counters. I have two printers an Ender and Mega Zero and 2 counters that automatically consume the selected filaments.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Very cool tool. I love it&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="33983" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2022-04-29T03:53:11.967" LastActivityDate="2022-04-29T03:53:11.967" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19312" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19306" CreationDate="2022-04-29T13:34:47.713" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't see why it wouldn't work. It doesn't seem to be the optimal way but I haven't tried it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Only thing that might be an issue is that PLA doesn't burn away clean (not for me anyway) which can leave defects in the product. But there are filaments specifically made for casting which apparently burn away with no residue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is assuming you can actually successfully print a complex object with walls that thin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31811" LastEditorUserId="31811" LastEditDate="2022-04-29T13:41:33.387" LastActivityDate="2022-04-29T13:41:33.387" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19313" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-04-30T08:02:29.603" Score="1" ViewCount="385" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a spool of PLA filament where the diameter is visibly inconsistent. So it will only print a meter or two and then start slipping instead of being fed into the nozzle. Is this still useful for anything or can it be salvaged somehow?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can't return it, the shipping costs more than the spool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31811" LastActivityDate="2022-05-01T00:25:24.007" Title="Is there any way to salvage PLA filament with inconsistent diameter?" Tags="|filament|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19314" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19313" CreationDate="2022-04-30T17:18:15.033" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;In principle you can re-extrude it with a somewhat simpler machine/setup than making filament from scratch, but controlling the diameter is the hard part of making filament - as you can see from how the manufacturer of yours botched it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would first try insisting on a refund without returning the item unless they pay return shipping, and that they cover the original shipping cost. The product they delivered is not usable for the purpose it was advertised for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for salvaging it - if that's what you really want to do, or if you end up stuck with it - as long as it's not too wide to fit through the filament path to the nozzle, an extruder that's spring loaded can &lt;em&gt;probably&lt;/em&gt; manage to push it reliably. You will of course have pulsating under- and over-extrusion which will make it largely unusable for serious parts that need to be dimensionally accurate, strong, or visually appealing, but there are lots of things without these requirements it might be useful for. If your printer isn't capable of handling it, you could perhaps sell or trade it to someone whose printer can handle it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Getting more on the wild end of things, there are filament diameter sensors that can be integrated with your printer and firmware (I'm pretty sure Klipper supports this; not sure about Marlin and others) to measure the diameter and compensate extruder motor steps to keep the extruded volume per requested E-axis length constant. This would in theory make it possible to use the bad filament for serious prints.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2022-04-30T17:18:15.033" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19315" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19313" CreationDate="2022-04-30T23:21:58.497" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Personally I store all my filament waste in tubs for the day a recycling/reuse solution offers itself.  You can &amp;quot;compact&amp;quot; waste prints using hot air which also sticks the whispy pieces together.   Someone will eventually come out with a &amp;quot;re-extruder&amp;quot; that simply cooks old filament and then produces a consistent 1.75mm or 3mm output.  Cost is the limiting factor here, both in up-front equipment and ongoing electricity cost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Plain unused filament is specified as a pin for a hinge in some designs.  However that doesn't use very much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It can also be used as string, but tends to break at the knot if tied tightly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Filament could be platted into a rope, but that's going to be more decorative than useful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Last thought, I've not tried it but filament has a low melting temperature compared to metals.  You may be able to &amp;quot;cast&amp;quot; a 3D shape in a metal mold an a hot oven or with a gas torch or perhaps even in a fire. Fumes could be an issue, and you'd have to somehow stop the plastic from igniting.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I doubt it would be possible to cast a thin round cylinder; the top would be flat at best.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I happened to come across a &amp;quot;spring mandrel&amp;quot; at &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:92266&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:92266&lt;/a&gt; &lt;br&gt; One could soften the poor filament and then wind it around a structure like that, and when cooled you have a low-pressure coil spring of a length and diameter you chose.  Probably not that strong or robust, but worth a try if you need springs for other prints.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12956" LastEditorUserId="12956" LastEditDate="2022-05-01T00:25:24.007" LastActivityDate="2022-05-01T00:25:24.007" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19316" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15797" CreationDate="2022-05-01T14:19:32.620" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Do you still have this issue? My Ender with a BLTouch won't respect the Z-off set setting in &lt;strong&gt;Motion&lt;/strong&gt; &amp;gt; &lt;strong&gt;Control&lt;/strong&gt; &amp;gt; &lt;strong&gt;ZOffset&lt;/strong&gt;. You can change it to -10 and it will still start printing about 1 cm above the bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All of this started to happen after I used &lt;strong&gt;Bed Leveling&lt;/strong&gt; from the prepare menu. To work around the issue, I reset the settings &lt;strong&gt;Initialize EPROM&lt;/strong&gt; in the control menu.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Reset All settings &lt;strong&gt;Initialize EPROM&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Set the Z-offset (In my case -3.3)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Store settings in the control menu&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Switch off the printer (settings won't take effect even if you select to load settings)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then start printing. This doesn't solve the issue because it defeats the purpose of having a BLTouch in the first place. but at least I'm able to print again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In a nutshell, avoiding auto bed leveling does the trick (or at least in my case)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="34001" LastEditorUserId="38084" LastEditDate="2023-05-11T10:18:18.300" LastActivityDate="2023-05-11T10:18:18.300" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19317" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-05-01T22:16:48.143" Score="1" ViewCount="571" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm new to 3D printing, I have printed the cat that comes on the SD card on my Ender 3 and it's amazing the level of detail. After that, I tried to print another figure and I don't know what I'm doing wrong. I don't even know what to search for troubleshooting images because none of those seems similar to my problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I used Ultimaker Cura to generate the G-code, it's the same filament, good (I think) bed leveling with 50 °C and nozzle at 200 °C. Is something wrong with the printer? Or is it the configuration of my G-code and what parameters do I need to check?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The next images are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;my first cat (nice print)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;what I want to print&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;what I actually print&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yBTwS.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;3D printed cat model from SD card&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yBTwS.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;3D printed cat model from SD card&quot; title=&quot;3D printed cat model from SD card&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qchXO.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;3D rendering of a skeletal monster model&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qchXO.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;3D rendering of a skeletal monster model&quot; title=&quot;3D rendering of a skeletal monster model&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/t12Ce.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Failed print of skeletal monster model&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/t12Ce.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Failed print of skeletal monster model&quot; title=&quot;Failed print of skeletal monster model&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="34004" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2022-05-02T04:44:16.097" LastActivityDate="2023-01-30T21:55:00.090" Title="Prints on bed are missing parts" Tags="|creality-ender-3|troubleshooting|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19318" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19317" CreationDate="2022-05-01T23:51:12.407" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are two big areas of difference between the successful sample print and the model you're failing to print: geometry and how it's sliced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, geometry. The sample print &lt;em&gt;looks&lt;/em&gt; detailed, but if you actually think about it, each cross section until you get to the ears at the very top is just a single, mostly smooth loop, whose shape differs very subtly from one layer to the next. (And indeed, when you get to the ears, it &lt;em&gt;doesn't&lt;/em&gt; look good anymore - there's bad stringing from missing or wrong retraction.) This is the easiest type of object to 3D print, and there's a reason they chose it as the sample - it's hard to get wrong, and it looks nice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The tabletop mini style figure, on the other hand, has &lt;em&gt;a lot&lt;/em&gt; of (very small!) disconnected components in each cross section once you get past the base. Printing these accurately (or even successfully at all) requires your printer to be able to stop the extrusion, move the print head to a different location, and resume extrusion there, without losing material to oozing on the way or skipping/jamming when it restarts. This is perfectly doable to an Ender 3, but it requires good instructions from the slicer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's where we get to the next part of what's different: slicing. The sample print was sliced for you with Creality's preferred options to show off the printer's capabilities (and they didn't do a very good job at that - see the stringing at the top, which a properly sliced print on an Ender 3 should not have). Yours you sliced yourself, with whatever profile came with Cura. Even if the stock slicing profile they provide is fairly good, this is a really difficult print (see geometry above) and will require a good bit of work to figure out how to print it successfully. It probably needs some supports, and needs retraction tuned well, and probably needs combing limited.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I could go into details for how to go about finding the right options for this print, but I think you really need to start with something much simpler. I know I did the same kind of thing (looking for fancy models and trying them) when I first got my Ender 3, but it ended up being frustrating and took a lot longer to figure out what I was doing wrong than it would have if I started out with things like boring cylinders or calibration cubes. Start really simple. That way you can get to know how the slicer works, what options are available and how they affect what the printer does, and most importantly do an overall sanity check that it's slicing right for your printer. (Cura used to have a bug where it always wanted to reset to the wrong filament diameter, 2.85 rather than 1.75, which gave extremely underextruded prints, and parts of your failure look like that may be what happened, but I doubt it is since I think that behavior was fixed a couple years ago.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In slicing and printing some simple test pieces, you'll probably find you have questions about what's not going the way you expect. Ask those. Then, once you get the problems worked out, start trying more elaborate prints, and ask more questions when you run into problems with them. After getting past very basic checks, a good next stage would be &amp;quot;nontrivial objects that don't need supports&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2022-05-01T23:51:12.407" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19319" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19317" CreationDate="2022-05-02T00:42:14.220" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Cura Ender 3 profile will not give you that print. It's a very safe profile. And that print was failing from the start long before it had any complexity to speak of.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So it's the printer or the filament. Hard to tell which without more detail. It looks like it was failing from the first layer. So do some research on what a first layer should look like and troubleshoot from there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also doublecheck you are using the right Cura profile for your filament type and machine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have to say, the cat print doesn't look very good either.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31811" LastEditorUserId="31811" LastEditDate="2022-05-02T00:48:22.250" LastActivityDate="2022-05-02T00:48:22.250" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19320" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19335" CreationDate="2022-05-02T15:45:28.323" Score="2" ViewCount="189" Body="&lt;p&gt;I build and export my model using ZBrush and as STL files.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;To fix the mesh for 3D print, I try to use 3D Builder which can automatically repair my parts.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;As it saves as a single file, if I import all parts at once,&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;I import the files one by one, repair them, then save them as a new file.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;After all the parts were repaired, I import all parts to see the result&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;but find some repaired parts' positions shifted.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;How should I handle these issues?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/01xRd.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Rendering of 3D model with parts shifted from original position&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/01xRd.png&quot; alt=&quot;Rendering of 3D model with parts shifted from original position&quot; title=&quot;Rendering of 3D model with parts shifted from original position&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="34011" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2022-05-02T17:48:49.697" LastActivityDate="2023-11-11T20:57:26.793" Title="3D Builder: position shifted after auto repair" Tags="|repair|print-preparation|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19321" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-05-03T01:00:34.683" Score="0" ViewCount="1450" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm pretty new to 3D printing and I made my own file in Blender. I exported it to Creality slicer, printed it, and it was filling the holes that aren't supposed to be filled.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's supposed to look like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nwzV9.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Screenshot of rendered model in Creality slicer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nwzV9.png&quot; alt=&quot;Screenshot of rendered model in Creality slicer&quot; title=&quot;Screenshot of rendered model in Creality slicer&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;but ends up looking like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JIj5I.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Screenshot of rendered model in Creality slicer with hole filled&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JIj5I.png&quot; alt=&quot;Screenshot of rendered model in Creality slicer with hole filled&quot; title=&quot;Screenshot of rendered model in Creality slicer with hole filled&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I looked around and saw that it might be broken or something so if anyone knows how to fix that Heres my stl file:&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://drive.google.com/file/d/1auVJb8xFT_33rf3gDXCzf5Hz6K9TvfSv/view?usp=sharing&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://drive.google.com/file/d/1auVJb8xFT_33rf3gDXCzf5Hz6K9TvfSv/view?usp=sharing&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="34017" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2022-05-03T02:35:32.873" LastActivityDate="2022-05-03T02:35:32.873" Title="Creality slicer filling in holes that aren't supposed to" Tags="|creality-ender-3|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19322" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19321" CreationDate="2022-05-03T01:21:17.063" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't use that slicer, but there are issues with the STL file, when I fixed them and sliced it looked ok.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I suggest to fix your STL first. Lots of programs including blender have tools to help with that. Or you could use a free online stl repair.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31811" LastActivityDate="2022-05-03T01:21:17.063" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19323" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19320" CreationDate="2022-05-03T02:52:48.227" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It has moved the object to the ground as close as it could. This is generally best for 3D printing separate objects.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you need them together, you can reposition them, or combine them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively, change the 'Collision' and 'Intersect' settings until you get what you want.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31811" LastEditorUserId="4625" LastEditDate="2023-01-02T13:14:02.667" LastActivityDate="2023-01-02T13:14:02.667" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19324" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-05-03T12:29:03.170" Score="4" ViewCount="265" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a resin printer, and when I print medium to large flat surfaces they tend to warp a little after a few days. I was wondering if it's possible to reduce this by adding lines/circles or other geometry to one side (e.g. when only one side will be visible).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I vaguely remember seeing somewhere that they (used to?) mill a specific pattern into the metal back of MS Surface Pro devices to reduce flexibility. Although I'm unable to find anything about that now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know more about this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="34024" LastActivityDate="2022-05-03T13:16:02.597" Title="Is it possible to make flat parts less flexible by adding geometry to one side?" Tags="|resin|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19325" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19324" CreationDate="2022-05-03T13:16:02.597" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes. You'll find this all over the place in injection molded parts even even formed metal like disposable buffet serving containers (although there it's visible on both sides), and the same idea works for resin (or FDM) printing. I'm not actually well-informed on the detailed theory of how you make good geometry to do this, but in practice pretty much anything works.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2022-05-03T13:16:02.597" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19326" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19330" CreationDate="2022-05-03T15:49:01.490" Score="3" ViewCount="463" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an old notebook computer that works just fine, but the outside of the lid is badly damaged and needs to be replaced. The screen and wiring are fine, so I only need to replace the housing that is exposed to the outside world.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What is the best filament for an impact-resistant printed housing?&lt;/strong&gt; Should I consider other options that may prevent damage to the internal components? Are there any alternatives with cosmetic benefits?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit:&#xA;Since I was asked, presume I may be willing to buy a new part to upgrade or accommodate a new filament type.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="34019" LastEditorUserId="34019" LastEditDate="2022-05-03T23:06:30.207" LastActivityDate="2022-05-03T23:06:30.207" Title="Best filament to print the housing for a laptop?" Tags="|filament-choice|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19327" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19326" CreationDate="2022-05-03T21:26:06.310" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you just cared about impact resistance of the housing itself, the clear choice would be TPU, which would be basically indestructible. However, the housing is there to protect what's inside - not only from impact, but from stresses (e.g. bending) that could break it. This means you need a material that both provides rigidity and avoids breaking easily itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you were doing an old (90s or earlier) style laptop case that's a tank, I'd actually say yeah, go with TPU 95A or higher (98A or so if you could get it) and add some reinforcement ribs/stiffeners. This stuff can be quite rigid at 100% infill, and it will hold up fine to heat, abrasion, even most chemicals. But if this is a modern slim style case, a small amount of material needs to provide a lot of rigidity and that's not going to work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PLA actually fares really well here in some ways - it's one of the most rigid printable materials, and very easy to get good bonding. If you check for example CNC Kitchen's strength tests, you'll find plain PLA usually coming out on top of most comparisons. However, PLA doesn't handle heat well, which might rule it out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;ASA, ABS, or PC is probably your best bet, but I don't have any experience with them so I'll leave the part about them as something for another answerer to write.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2022-05-03T21:26:06.310" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19328" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15457" CreationDate="2022-05-03T21:59:16.583" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, it has been done for many years - but it's not referred to as FDM when you use deposition of resins. At room temperature it's often called &lt;strong&gt;Direct Ink Writing&lt;/strong&gt; (DIW, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S2352940721000445&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;example&lt;/a&gt;), and if heated it's often called &lt;strong&gt;Hot Melt Extrusion&lt;/strong&gt; (HME, &lt;a href=&quot;https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/29859323/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;example&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Disclaimer: I work for Hyrel 3D, a 3D printer manufacturer which has been making heads that deposit one- or two-part resins since 2015. See &lt;a href=&quot;https://hyrel3d.com/wiki/index.php/Published_Papers&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;over 300 published papers&lt;/a&gt;, many of which cite this exact process.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4922" LastActivityDate="2022-05-03T21:59:16.583" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19330" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19326" CreationDate="2022-05-03T23:00:00.303" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;For casings I use a combination of TPU and PETG or PLA. PETG shell gives it rigidity and TPU gives it a bit of impact protection. So corners and inside layers of TPU within a hard PETG or PLA shell (shell has no corners).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I haven't had a problem with either but obviously PLA won't withstand heat very well, so it depends on environment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a laptop case you'd maybe want to do it the other way around with the outside shell of TPU and inside layers of PETG for rigidity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31811" LastActivityDate="2022-05-03T23:00:00.303" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19331" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-05-03T23:18:33.683" Score="0" ViewCount="620" Body="&lt;p&gt;Bought a new printer. When this problem has happened anywhere from the third to the twentieth layer up. An excess of filament suddenly exits the nozzle, often pulling the print from the bed when the nozzle moves away. The only advice I've found so far is that the nozzle or hotend may have damage, but I didn't find any when removing them to examine them. I've tried a few different ranges of settings. Guidance would be appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm using a Creality Ender 3 with out-of-the-box equipment and slicing with the most recent Creality Print version. Settings are default (bed: 70 °C and hot end: 200 °C).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4yjEx.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4yjEx.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;an unfortunate excess of filament&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's what I get if I set everything to default, switch filament spool, and use a .gcode file that was sent in-box from the manufacturer. There was not really ever anything printed, since the blob was stuck to the nozzle and was dragged around in three dimensions until I stopped the printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ucg06.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ucg06.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;an even more unfortunate excess of filament&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="34019" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2022-06-05T07:41:17.120" LastActivityDate="2023-04-02T11:08:06.007" Title="Severe blobbing prevents printing. What settings can I change to fix this?" Tags="|creality-ender-3|print-quality|calibration|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19332" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19331" CreationDate="2022-05-03T23:46:57.767" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;More information would be useful, to narrow the possible causes, but consider to perform an extrusion step check. This involves marking the filament at the most convenient location. This would be at the top of the extruder on a direct drive system, at the removed bowden tube for a non-direct drive system or at the entrance to the bowden tube on the same time of system. Mark also a specific distance, often 10 mm or 100 mm and then command an extrusion of that distance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Perform this with the extruder positioned a suitable distance from the bed, to avoid collection around the nozzle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Compare the amount moved by the extruder with the marks created. This will determine if you have extruder step mismatch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This requires a means to communicate with the printer, either via manually created g-code on the card or via appropriate software while connected to the printer via USB.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastActivityDate="2022-05-03T23:46:57.767" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19333" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19343" CreationDate="2022-05-04T03:00:20.000" Score="0" ViewCount="752" Body="&lt;p&gt;The printer is a Creality CR-10 S5.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Marlin 2.0.7.2&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/N5luW.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/N5luW.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XhIm2.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XhIm2.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/x5Zln.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/x5Zln.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/o6xFN.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/o6xFN.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is the highest point.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ek7kX.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ek7kX.png&quot; alt=&quot;high point right side&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Deepest valley&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VjxbL.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VjxbL.png&quot; alt=&quot;deep valley back&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Further the leveling screws on the right X0,0 and X=0, Y=467 are barely at the very bottom of the screw.  The ones on the left side are cranked super tight nearly at the maximum tightness. The BLTouch is doing a 10x10 grid so the resolution is pretty high.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any suggestions as to how to get it flatter?  Does anyone else have this issue and resolve it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can print with a raft.  Any way to confirm if my bed is actually this bad or sensor glitch.  I obviously can't see at sub-millimeter levels with my eyes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could this be an issue with the Z-axis?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So here are the wheel pictures:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1SzCi.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1SzCi.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1YON7.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1YON7.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DP9vu.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DP9vu.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WBcV8.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WBcV8.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, I changed the wheels, and re-leveled.  I got this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6aMBB.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6aMBB.png&quot; alt=&quot;after&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;Except for about 1 cm of the corner opposite the red side it is level enough to print on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16395" LastEditorUserId="16395" LastEditDate="2022-05-09T11:58:59.397" LastActivityDate="2022-05-09T16:44:16.913" Title="Bed leveling suggestions given this mesh generated by BLTouch" Tags="|bed-leveling|bltouch|creality-cr-10|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19334" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19331" CreationDate="2022-05-04T10:43:48.037" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;That's not excessive Filament, it is &amp;quot;blobbing&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Blobbing happens in several cases, but the most common are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The printed filament is deposited too hot on other hot filament, resulting in the filament to get dragged behind and create a &lt;em&gt;bead&lt;/em&gt; of molten plastic that hardens out as a long blob.&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A typical reason for this would be to print a thin cylinder of a vers small diameter without forcing a break in between the layers. The best example I have for you is a 6mm outer diameter hollow cylinder with exactly 2 perimeters (one inner, one outer). If this is printed continuously, this item can be brought reliably to blob.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If the printhead crosses over already printed but not adhering filament on the bed, it can pick up that filament, gathering a blob at the nozzle by accumulation. That is most likely what happened on the photo.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The model might be defective creating areas that induce blobbing.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A bad slicer solution and settings can induce in blobbing.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I strongly suggest to use either PrusasSlicer (a Slic3r derivate) or Ultimaker Cura, from which Creality Print diverges. Note, 70 °C bed temperature for PLA is excessive -&amp;gt; 50 °C are more than enough usually.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2022-07-06T08:49:01.780" LastActivityDate="2022-07-06T08:49:01.780" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19335" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19320" CreationDate="2022-05-04T11:12:32.517" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;STL models as exported by software often include their origin in the origin of the design software. However, when using software to fix modeling errors, those origins are not always retained and thus when importing them into a different software their &lt;em&gt;center of mass&lt;/em&gt; is taken as the new point of reference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Slicers are notorious in that they ignore the included origin. Even &lt;em&gt;if&lt;/em&gt; models contain an origin that would, when imported into 3D design environments result in the items lining up correctly, the slicing software will simply not care and take a &lt;em&gt;lowest point in the projected center of the object&lt;/em&gt; as the coordinate for the item, as this is what is relevant for positioning in the software.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To mitigate that problem, it is best to export models that need to be &lt;em&gt;joined&lt;/em&gt; after processing a boolean union on them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2022-05-04T14:10:26.497" LastActivityDate="2022-05-04T14:10:26.497" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19336" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-05-04T12:27:54.273" Score="0" ViewCount="88" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can the GT2 belts lengthen themselves if they are tentioned too much?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had them tensioned quite a bit until I saw the &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/zoKmmT0a7jk&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;video&lt;/a&gt; from &amp;quot;Lost in Tech&amp;quot;. I then decided to reduce the tension, but the dimensional precision was all over the place. So my guess is, that the belts are too long now?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user31236" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2022-05-04T13:02:27.440" LastActivityDate="2022-07-23T10:01:38.973" Title="GT2 belts lengthened?" Tags="|belt|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19337" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-05-04T14:58:28.840" Score="1" ViewCount="448" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a problem. I upgraded my Ender 3 v2 for direct drive and added CR Touch. Updated software to bugfix-JyersUI v2.0.1. Now if I turn on my printer first homing X-axis moves to the left clicks one time (usually clicks 2 times) to endstop and that's it. Every after homing X-axis moves right. Changed endstop with a different endstop; same problem. Changed firmware with less possibility firmware and homing is successful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="34040" LastEditorUserId="34040" LastEditDate="2022-05-04T17:41:26.850" LastActivityDate="2022-05-04T17:41:26.850" Title="Ender 3 v2 X-axis home fails" Tags="|creality-ender-3|marlin|lcd-screen|x-axis|direct-drive|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19338" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-05-04T17:00:05.270" Score="2" ViewCount="454" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been trying to trace down a mysterious reduction in the flow I can achieve. Since recording &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/_4QEEit5aNo&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this flow test video&lt;/a&gt; where I successfully achieved a nominal 30 mm³/s (almost surely with underextrusion, but with no skipping or warping), something happened whereby I'm no longer able to reproduce it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Shortly after that was recorded, I discovered a burnt-out XT60 connector between the power supply and printer, and replaced it. That made a lot of voltage sag issues (fans slowing down when heaters turned on, etc.) go away, and I'm wondering how it might affect temperature measurement and indirectly flow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could the thermistor voltage have been affected by undervoltage/limited current availability from the power supply, and if so, how would that manifest? Hotend (including thermistor) is stock Ender 3. The controller board is SKR E3 Mini V2. Naively, I would expect that if there was actually reduced voltage on the (3.3V?) line feeding into the thermistor, that would appear as higher resistance, and thus lower temperature, driving the controller to heat it well above the requeste temperature, but I'm not sure if that plausibly could have happened.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2023-06-11T19:07:50.893" Title="Effects of bad power supply on temperature/flow?" Tags="|thermistor|power-supply|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19340" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19342" CreationDate="2022-05-04T22:30:40.983" Score="3" ViewCount="564" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently broke the cooling fan on my Voxelab Aquila while doing some maintenance, and I'm in the middle of a multi piece print that I would like to finish soon. I found the fan replacement I need, but it's not going to arrive for over a week. I was wondering if it would be ok to print a few things with the broken fan, or if that would be bad for the motor or anything else.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8wC69.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8wC69.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/C8Kvm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/C8Kvm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="33252" LastActivityDate="2022-05-05T18:50:51.820" Title="Can I Print With a Fan Missing 3 Blades?" Tags="|print-fan|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19341" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19340" CreationDate="2022-05-04T23:38:11.243" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the fan is the part cooling fan, you'll have reduced cooling on the part as it is printed. This isn't necessarily going to be a problem, although you may have irregularities in the print surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the fan is the heat sink cooling fan, reduced cooling will be problematic. This could result in heat creep and clogging of the hot end.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastActivityDate="2022-05-04T23:38:11.243" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19342" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19340" CreationDate="2022-05-05T00:44:43.957" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;As long as your ambient temperature is not excessive and you're not using a very high bed temperature, you should be fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With insufficient cooling, there is a risk of heat creep - that is, of the heat from the melt zone working its way up to the area where the filament is supposed to be solid, potentially causing jams if it deforms and catches in crevices there. However, the hotend is made to operate in temperatures far above normal room temperature, e.g. in non-air-conditioned spaces, in enclosed chambers for printing ABS, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just keep the space you're printing in cool and go on printing while you wait for a new fan to arrive. Maybe reduce your bed temperature a bit if you usually use temperatures on the high end (over 50°C).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2022-05-05T00:44:43.957" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19343" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19333" CreationDate="2022-05-05T05:27:30.747" Score="2" Body="&lt;h1&gt;Understanding the pattern&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Indeed, it looks like the error is induced by the X-Axis, as the pattern is very uniform over the Y-axis. The most likely reason for such an error is either damage to the rail, or damage to the motion system using the rail.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Damage to the rail would either be a deformed or a deep spot in it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, in your case, it is quite easily the wheels being worn down on the leading and lower roller while the trailing one does show to be not pressed against the rail properly. As a result, the print head can possibly might either tilt a little or the contact surfaces of the wheel might no longer run perfectly concentric with the wheel's hub itself and the printhead. In both cases, the head does a little wave dance around the ideal Z-position.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would try to tighten the rollers, and in either case swap them out for spares.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;After re-fitting&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The new mesh leveling tells me that the back right corner needs to go down quite some (about a millimeter) and the whole left can go up a little. The front right looks about right, maybe a little on the low end, but not too much. A BL-touch printer still needs leveling in itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2022-05-09T16:44:16.913" LastActivityDate="2022-05-09T16:44:16.913" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19344" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-05-05T12:38:24.150" Score="2" ViewCount="64" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a problem with, what I think is underextrusion (see attached photos), but I'd like to ask you If my assumption is correct. If it is underextrusion could you advice me which slicer settings should I adjust?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The nozzle isn't blocked, so now I'm trying to solve the matter by increasing flow rate, but apart from that and e-step calibration I have no idea.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vbPkp.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vbPkp.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have an HBot 3D 1.1 printer (it's a CoreXY style printer)  which I use together with Cura. I print in PLA at  200 °C. The print bed is set to 70 °C. I use a print cooling fan at 100 %. The layer height I set to 0.2 mm, the line width is set to 0.4 mm from the 0.4 mm nozzle. The Printing Speed is set to 30 mm/s for walls and 60 mm/s for infill. My retraction is 6.5 mm off at  25 mm/s.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Two other settings I've adjusted are print jerk (from 20 to 1 mm/s) and acceleration (from 3000 mm/s² to 500 mm/s²).I've changed them to stop the printer from shaking too much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="32028" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2022-05-06T08:13:55.797" LastActivityDate="2022-10-08T06:07:05.773" Title="Problems with underextrusion" Tags="|troubleshooting|underextrusion|hbot-3d-1.1|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19345" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19340" CreationDate="2022-05-05T18:50:51.820" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think you'll get weird print artifacts and strange surface errors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The fan is not balanced and will buzz.  This added vibration could be seen as an effect in the finish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally I'd suggest patience and wait for the replacement to arrive before continuing.  Or scavenge a suitable fan from something else in the meantime.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12956" LastActivityDate="2022-05-05T18:50:51.820" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19346" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10288" CreationDate="2022-05-05T21:06:32.693" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use a fine round brass brush, similar to what you would use to clean a gun barrel, to keep my nozzle clean. The brass is softer than the nozzle material, so it doesn't damage it, and the bristles grab strings easily - you barely have to touch them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm using SUNLU PETG filament in my Ender 3.  It sticks VERY well to the &amp;quot;Creality Original Ultra Removable Magnetic 3D Printer Build Surface&amp;quot;.  I'm set at 70 °C on the bed.  Get your height set well. I had a ton of issues with nothing sticking until I got it dialed in. Now, it almost sticks too well.  I often have to remove the magnetic sheet in order to get larger prints off it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="34049" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2022-05-05T22:11:22.023" LastActivityDate="2022-05-05T22:11:22.023" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19347" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19336" CreationDate="2022-05-05T22:33:16.923" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;First of all there are two methods to achieve the belt be tensioned.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First method is when both ends of the belt hard attached. In this case if there is a fluctuation in the mechanical system then it will be absorbed by the belt itself. And in this case with big tension it will result in stretching over time with tension disappearing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The second method is to use spring at one end. The spring will absorb all the fluctuations with little or no effect on the belt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I had really bad problems with GT2 PU belts (including steel reinforced), under big tension they degrade suddenly with big change in the geometry at some position. When removed they look twisted. Looks like some reinforcing wires slipped inside the PU body of the belt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once switched to rubber GT2 belts (fibreglass reinforced) I never had problems connected to the belts. I can tell that rubber GT2 belts have no noticeable change in the geometry over many years of constant use under high tension with the spring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11199" LastActivityDate="2022-05-05T22:33:16.923" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19348" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6711" CreationDate="2022-05-05T22:48:51.487" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had really bad problems with GT2 PU belts (including steel reinforced), under big tension they degrade suddenly with big change in the geometry at some position. When removed they look twisted. Looks like some reinforcing wires slipped inside the PU body of the belt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once switched to rubber GT2 belts (fibreglass reinforced) I never had problems connected to the belts. I can tell that rubber GT2 belts have no noticeable change in the geometry over many years of constant use under high tension with the spring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11199" LastActivityDate="2022-05-05T22:48:51.487" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19352" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15457" CreationDate="2022-05-06T19:30:52.777" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is this &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b3CY3P28qyQ&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;enter link description here&lt;/a&gt; printer which uses a liquid resin that's cured using UV at the very tip of the nozel, it prints in layers like an FDM printer and is extremely fast but can't do small details.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've only ever seen it print at a large scale I don't know if there is a prototype for a desktop version.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="29097" LastActivityDate="2022-05-06T19:30:52.777" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19353" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19357" CreationDate="2022-05-07T02:55:07.467" Score="1" ViewCount="93" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most of the guides I can find are just canned responses to specific questions. Instead I'm looking for something meant to teach good fundamental understanding and core needed skills. Beginner's guides are common in other hobbies but I am having trouble finding one for 3d printing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="34019" LastActivityDate="2022-05-08T01:21:57.587" Title="Has anyone written a primer for hobbyists new to 3D printing?" Tags="|knowledgebase|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19354" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19353" CreationDate="2022-05-07T06:36:58.687" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Thera are plenty of such guides. But from necessity they deal with specifics, there are too many things to cover otherwise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Multiple types of printers, multiple brands, multiple slicers, multiple ways of modelling etc,. With more all the time. Reading up on something that tells me how to model and slice in Freecad &amp;amp; Creality, when I'm using Blender &amp;amp; Cura is a waste of time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Generic instructions that apply to everything are so vague as to be essentially useless. (Plenty of those online though)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31811" LastActivityDate="2022-05-07T06:36:58.687" CommentCount="16" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19355" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-05-07T19:41:45.183" Score="1" ViewCount="110" Body="&lt;p&gt;Printer doesn't print perfect circles while calicat is perfect and top layers look weird on Ender 3 Pro:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Vc9UK.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Vc9UK.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;top layers look weird&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/j5LyL.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/j5LyL.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;circle isn't in the shape of a circle while calicat was perfect&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I used Cura and an Ender 3 Pro, eSun PLA+, print at 210 °C.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="33776" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2022-05-08T01:32:35.430" LastActivityDate="2022-05-08T01:32:35.430" Title="Circle isn't in the shape of a circle" Tags="|creality-ender-3|print-quality|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19356" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19355" CreationDate="2022-05-07T22:36:37.267" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Try printing a 20mm reference cube and verify the dimensions.  Also calibrate your extruder - it looks &amp;quot;fat&amp;quot; to me like there's just too much plastic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I print the same filament at the same temperature, on an ender3 v2 so you're in the right area for temperatures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12956" LastActivityDate="2022-05-07T22:36:37.267" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19357" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19353" CreationDate="2022-05-07T23:28:48.030" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here's a brief outline I threw out in chat once.  I'm marking this as a &amp;quot;community Wiki&amp;quot; answer so feel free to edit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is not a full Primer, so should date better than a Word6.0 manual.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Start by reading the instructions that came with your printer.  There's a high chance that some assembly is required, and if you get something wrong then things may nor work right later.  Some brands come complete, some are better than others in this regard.   Take your time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For most people, they spend the first couple of weeks failing prints for multiple reasons.  For me it was bed levelling and getting the first layer-adhesion, and filament tension.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So work on getting the bed levelled, work out how much gluestick or tape your filament needs to work, and what temperatures work in your environment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I use 210 °C on the hotend for PLA+ and 60 °C bed temp, though others get away with 190 °C on the hotend and 50 °C on the bed.  My printer is in a garage though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Try and print a 20 mm cube or a benchy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After that, explore &lt;a href=&quot;http://thingiverse.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://thingiverse.com&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;http://thangs.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://thangs.com&lt;/a&gt; looking for pre-made stuff that you would benefit from.   Start small.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Grab Toy Infinite is a great starter - it's very forgiving about tolerances, and kids like it.  Expect rough handling to break it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you're happy printing other people's things, identify some needs of your own.  In fact, make up a document / draught email / notepad of ideas of things to print.   I add stuff to mine all the time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you've got a need that no one else can fill, you can start designing your own item and do the whole&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;idea --&amp;gt;  ||:  (re)design --&amp;gt; implement --&amp;gt; test --&amp;gt; curse :|| success!!    loop.    &#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many people bang on about expensive fancy software, but you can make a perfectly adequate part using &lt;a href=&quot;http://tinkercad.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://tinkercad.com/&lt;/a&gt; as a grounding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, I had too many spare hacksaw blades and none of the &amp;quot;holders&amp;quot; I could buy were perfect, nor even close.  Here's my output:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.tinkercad.com/things/9yQMmxRv4Lz-spare-hacksaw-blade-holder&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.tinkercad.com/things/9yQMmxRv4Lz-spare-hacksaw-blade-holder&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Like many things in making, expect to fail and learn and do it again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sometimes it looks like we buy printers to print things for the printers for printing things for the printers...repeat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Look for needs in your life and design something to fill them.  It's most satisfying.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's a huge gap between Functional prints, which do a job, and pretty prints which are just to look nice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Functional things are great - you can therefore justify the cost of more printer upgrades.  LOOK AT ALL THE MONEY WE SAVED!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But overall enjoy yourself and the time you spend making things.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12956" LastEditorUserId="12956" LastEditDate="2022-05-08T01:21:57.587" LastActivityDate="2022-05-08T01:21:57.587" CommentCount="1" CommunityOwnedDate="2022-05-07T23:28:48.030" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19358" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-05-08T03:42:55.297" Score="0" ViewCount="676" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've noticed a lot of beginners with the Ender 3 are getting blobby prints. The default nozzle temperature with the slicer and printer is 200 °C. The filament's manufacturer's suggested nozzle temperature is 215 °C. What're the best Slic3r settings to solve this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are some examples. These are supposed to be shaped roughly like a human eye. After the bottom right failure I tried doubling the default retraction distance and adding glue stick to the bed, keeping the nozzle temperature at 200 °C. The bottom left print was next. There was no severe blobbing but the nozzle still seems to have dislodged the print while transitioning from infill to the next layer's perimeter. The next print was the top one, which had +1 mm Z distance for the nozzle and increased the nozzle temperature to 215 °C.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PGqum.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PGqum.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;three failed prints&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Support material options are turned off. These prints seem to go bad within the first few layers. I've tried watching the print carefully and saw that the nozzle kept bumping the perimeter during infill. I tried a print with double-sided tape, which held the print more firmly. I finished one of the double-sided tape prints. Although most of the print was fine the first three layers are &lt;em&gt;extremely harsh&lt;/em&gt; with very different consistency from the rest of the print. Subsequent prints get to about two inches in height then consistently fail at the same height. At about two inches the nozzle side-swipes the top layer of the perimeter. This tips the model over. The results are much as seen above. I tried a smaller model and the printer made the harsh layers then started the model but failed for the same reason, though within only a few layers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="34019" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2022-05-11T06:17:23.153" LastActivityDate="2022-05-11T13:05:49.533" Title="What is causing these severe print errors on an Ender 3?" Tags="|creality-ender-3|print-quality|troubleshooting|calibration|slic3r|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="9" ClosedDate="2022-05-17T06:52:30.863" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19359" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19360" CreationDate="2022-05-08T04:23:23.410" Score="0" ViewCount="75" Body="&lt;p&gt;Looking to print a new part for a home appliance. There's going to need to be a new model created with the customizations made, but the model (after printing) will have to fit where the old part was. Is there any 3D modeling software that is better for this purpose? Will I just have to guess at proper proportions and hand-adjust the scaling of each dimension and angle through trial and error until a version fits?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="34019" LastActivityDate="2022-05-09T09:21:54.180" Title="Best way to make a new model for custom part printing?" Tags="|3d-models|rapid-prototyping|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19360" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19359" CreationDate="2022-05-08T07:58:11.573" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Use software specifically designed for making parts with specific dimensions and then measure exactly what you need and design from the measurements.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I use Freecad for this sort of thing but there are plenty of others that let you precisely control the measurements.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most 3d software could probably manage it, but if you use one specifically designed for this sort of work there is less of a learning curve and you don't have to mess around learning irrelevant stuff.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31811" LastActivityDate="2022-05-08T07:58:11.573" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19361" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19359" CreationDate="2022-05-09T09:21:54.180" Score="2" Body="&lt;h1&gt;Use a CAD software&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whenever you need to make a part fit given dimensions, it is best to set those. There are tons of &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Computer-aided_design&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Computer Aided Design&lt;/a&gt; software packages around, starting at free and ending at thousands a year for a single PC license. There are so many, that &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Comparison_of_computer-aided_design_software&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Wikipedia made a comparison list&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://all3dp.com/1/best-free-cad-software-2d-3d-cad-programs-design/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;all3Dp&lt;/a&gt; always curates a list of free 3D software. Among them, I can point to the following as options:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I personally prefer Fusion 360 by Autodesk, which is quite powerful but slightly cut down in the free version. It is known to produce very good exportable designs but has a somewhat steep learning curve. It also allows parametric designs, very valuable if you need to customize items.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Onshape is similar to Fusion 360 in that Hobbyists get it free, but it is browser-based, making it possibly easier accessible. It is a full-powered CAD suite, including parametric design.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;FreeCAD might not be as powerful or fancy as Fusion360 and Onshape, but it is a solid, well-working CAD package. It has also a somewhat easier learning curve than the likes. It allows entering OpenSCAD code, which means, you can add mathematic formulae to design your part.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;OpenSCAD is the absolute barebone, but absolutely parametric. It takes mathematical descriptions of bodies to design them - which is hard to learn and master but allows to create some very intricate mathematical models.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;SketchUp Free has a dubious reputation among printing enthusiasts, as its STL solutions at times have inverted surfaces.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not on the curated list of all3dp is one entry I personally worked with and which is somewhat potent but easy to use:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.rs-online.com/designspark/mechanical-software&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;DesignSpark Mechanical&lt;/a&gt; is a derivative of the powerful Ansys Space Claim CAD software and is offered for free. It is &lt;em&gt;somewhat&lt;/em&gt; limited though.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastActivityDate="2022-05-09T09:21:54.180" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19363" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19364" CreationDate="2022-05-10T00:29:00.807" Score="3" ViewCount="1728" Body="&lt;p&gt;Should I be able to hand turn the stepper motor for the extruder of an Ender 3?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Trying to figure out why the motor isn’t turning on a new to me, never used, but out-of-warranty Ender 3.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Swapping controller cables I discovered the extruder port on the motherboard is dead, but even if I put it on the X axis and manually move the axis it makes the sound like it should move, but doesn’t actually move at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Trying to figure out if it’s seized or something. Doing a resistance test with a multimeter shows a resistance of 4 for either of the two pairs of wires. I am not sure what else to test.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a hard time believing I need a new control board and a new stepper motor, but maybe two things are broke.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for the help!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;EDIT - Got the Extruder Working&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After the comments here mentioned that &amp;quot;Yes, it should be able to be moved by hand&amp;quot;, curiosity got the better of me and I said, &amp;quot;Well, if its broken, let's see why&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I tried to turn the stepper motor by hand again, just to confirm I wasn't crazy from the day before when I tried it. It wouldn't budge.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I removed all four screws on the bottom of the stepper motor and attempted to pry things apart. While fiddling with it, I thought I saw the stepper motor turn.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sure enough, I now tried to spin the stepper motor and it moved relatively easily.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I put the 4 screws back in place and validated I could still hand turn the motor. I could in fact do so.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I hooked the stepper motor back up to the X axis controller and told it to move, and sure enough now it moves and works!&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Just as a sanity check, I then hooked it up to the extruder controller and it again wouldn't turn.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm going to try what @towe recommended to make sure the controller board is in fact fried, but I &lt;em&gt;think&lt;/em&gt; I might JUST have a fried board and not a fried motor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="34064" LastEditorUserId="34064" LastEditDate="2022-05-10T19:32:55.127" LastActivityDate="2022-05-10T19:32:55.127" Title="Ender 3: Extruder Stepper Motor - Hand Turn" Tags="|creality-ender-3|troubleshooting|extruder|motor|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19364" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19363" CreationDate="2022-05-10T00:51:51.727" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes - you should be able to turn the extruder by hand when it is unplugged and therefore not powered.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The V2 comes with a blue plastic knob for this purpose, it may be too small to turn the shaft by hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When powered and &amp;quot;steppers enabled&amp;quot; the motors need a lot more force to overcome, but even that can be done by hand or a machine crash.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can't turn the extruder at all, its probably toast.   That you've tested other ports on the board is excellent problem solving.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whatever damaged the motor has likely damaged the board too, or vise versa.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You likely need both parts replaced to get this printer working again.   Could be expensive - you might want to compare cost of parts with cost of a new printer, remembering there may be other non-functional components still undiscovered.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Plausibly, with a dead extruder, you could slap a laser on this unit and make it a dedicated burner.  The creality laser module is around $50 USD.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12956" LastEditorUserId="12956" LastEditDate="2022-05-10T03:14:04.677" LastActivityDate="2022-05-10T03:14:04.677" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19365" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4032" CreationDate="2022-05-10T02:31:05.303" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;So like resuming any print, if you've already done the work to find the layer you failed at, edited the G-code to start from that layer. But now you feel stuck because to start a print you need to home your printer right? And homing with a BLTouch makes it probe the center of your bed... which happens to be where your print is at. IF you're on Klipper, you can put something like this here:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;[homing_override]&#xA;set_position_z:0&#xA;gcode:&#xA; G90&#xA; G1 Z10 F600&#xA; G28 X Y&#xA; #G1 X161 Y125 F6000 ;old bed center&#xA; G1 X245 Y215 F6000 ;far right corner of the bed. You may have to adjust your X and Y for your BLTouch location as mine is on a Hero Me hotend&#xA; G28 Z&#xA; G1 Z100 F24000 ; move Z-axis up so hotend doesn't hit the print when zeroing. Adjust this as needed to clear your print from where it failed&#xA; G1 X0 Y0 F24000&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And from there, the printer should Home and you can start your partial G-code from here. IF YOU HAVE KLIPPER. Make sure to remove any purge lines or stuff like that from your Start Print code.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21285" LastEditorUserId="21285" LastEditDate="2022-05-11T21:22:14.053" LastActivityDate="2022-05-11T21:22:14.053" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19366" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19363" CreationDate="2022-05-10T12:52:17.990" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Criggie's answer is basically correct, but I disagree with the conclusion that it:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could be expensive - you might want to compare cost of parts with cost of a new printer, remembering there may be other non-functional components still undiscovered.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to turn the Ender 3 into a decent printer, the controller board is one of the components you want to replace anyway, since it comes with either (old models) extremely loud and poorly performing A4988 stepper drivers or (newer models) TMC2208 stepper drivers hard-wired in a mode where they don't work well and malfunction if you enable Linear Advance (which is critical to getting decent prints on a bowden extruder system). Good boardsthat are exact fits for the housing and cable connectors, with TMC2209 steppers that lack the above problems, can be had for $35 or so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the motor is dead, that's a pain but not expensive to replace. Equivalent motors are available for $15 or so all over the place, or you could make the upgrade to a light-weight geared direct drive extruder with pancake stepper instead of the large NEMA 17 (which negates pretty much all of the disadvantages of direct drive and gives you a much better printer than you started with).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2022-05-10T12:52:17.990" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19367" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19391" CreationDate="2022-05-10T15:31:32.807" Score="1" ViewCount="91" Body="&lt;p&gt;I need to check the belts on my Ender 3 to confirm they are properly set up, functioning, and undamaged. How do I go about doing this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="34019" LastActivityDate="2022-05-17T09:48:35.730" Title="How do I check the belts on my Ender 3?" Tags="|creality-ender-3|maintenance|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19368" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-05-10T15:53:26.927" Score="2" ViewCount="240" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am new to 3D printing and having a strange issue I don't understand and would love some help with. I have an Ender 3 Pro and when I use the settings 200 °C &amp;amp; 60 °C it prints fine. However, I want to change the bed to 55 °C as the bottom layers are melting a bit. I changed this in Cura to 200 °C &amp;amp; 55 °C and get a thermal runaway after 20 minutes or so. I hit resume and the same thing after about 20 minutes, however, the times vary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did a PID using the same set temps 200 °C &amp;amp; 55 °C and still thermal runaway. So I changed all the numbers back to 200 °C &amp;amp; 60 °C and ran a PID on this original temps and ran perfect (except for the first layers melting a bit)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The odd part is the bed temp holds fine when adjusted to 55 °C, it's the hot end that starts to drop a few degrees (5 degrees) which triggers the runaway. Is this a fan issue (currently at 100%)? Before I started changing things I wanted to ask here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looking forward to your feedback. BTW I am able to change the PID right on the machine and have no experience altering G-code or the knowledge but am willing to try?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="34103" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2022-05-10T15:59:34.780" LastActivityDate="2024-02-03T17:08:05.953" Title="Changing the temp from 200/60 in any degree triggers thermal runaway" Tags="|temperature|thermal-runaway|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19369" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11492" CreationDate="2022-05-11T02:22:10.740" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I realize this is an old thread but I’d still like to share some thoughts for others who may find this post.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I understood correctly, you were printing this part in to see shape You were printing this part in a C shape. Loops horizontal, strut vertical. Yes, that will produce a very weak strut that is likely to split open when tightened.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next option is to print it in a U shape. Now you have a rock solid strut that will sustain compressive strength from bikts much better but depending on thickness and forces, your loops at the end may be prone to fail.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may want to consider designing this in three parts, strut plus 2 loops, that you glue together. I know glueing doesn’t sound very sexy but 1) each part is printed with optimal strength, and 2) glues like Weld-On produce incredibly strong bonds, as strong or even stronger than inter-layer printed strength.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And lastly, it may also help to use overdimensioned washers on BOTH sides the strut to spread the compressive force of bolt and bike frame and prevent splitting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="34105" LastActivityDate="2022-05-11T02:22:10.740" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19370" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19368" CreationDate="2022-05-11T03:32:47.917" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sounds like a thermostat problem, 60 degrees shouldn't be melting the first layers with PLA.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would try manually checking the temperatures and move forwards from whatever results I got from that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the heats were fine, then I'd be inclined to return it as a faulty unit if it's under warranty.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31811" LastActivityDate="2022-05-11T03:32:47.917" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19371" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19344" CreationDate="2022-05-11T05:04:21.487" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ok, I've messed a little with settings. Turns out that turning z-hop completely fixed the issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="32028" LastActivityDate="2022-05-11T05:04:21.487" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19372" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19358" CreationDate="2022-05-11T05:53:56.103" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;First of all, I would make sure that my bed is properly leveled. Download one of the bed level tests and keep adjusting until you get good, slightly smooshed lines. It's possible that the nozzle was too low but it's hard to say.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might also want to look into changing your Z-offset (Ender 3 sometimes can have a slightly warped bed). The easiest way to adjust it is probably downloading Cura slicer, clicking on &lt;strong&gt;Marketplace&lt;/strong&gt; &amp;gt; &lt;strong&gt;Plugins&lt;/strong&gt;, and downloading a free Z-offset plugin. Then you can adjust your offset under build plate adhesion settings and, while we are on the subject, if your print falls over try printing with the Brim turned on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another reason might be a partially clogged nozzle, if you have an Ender machine you probably also got a bag with all the extra bits. It should have a needle-like piece of wire you can use to unclog your hot end.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could also try some settings that limit the amount of time printhead travels over previously finished areas like Combing mode and Z-hop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your problems are indeed caused by wrong retraction settings try printing a retraction tower test. You could download the &amp;quot;Calibration Shapes&amp;quot; plugin for Cura. If you do so, under the &lt;strong&gt;Extensions&lt;/strong&gt; tab you should see &amp;quot;Calibration Shapes&amp;quot;. Select retraction tower to place it, then click on &lt;strong&gt;Extensions&lt;/strong&gt; &amp;gt; &lt;strong&gt;Post-processing&lt;/strong&gt; &amp;gt; &lt;strong&gt;Modify G-code&lt;/strong&gt; &amp;gt; &lt;strong&gt;Add script&lt;/strong&gt; &amp;gt; &lt;strong&gt;Retract tower&lt;/strong&gt;. Adjust distance and speed in separate tests.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively, you can download a retraction tower model and use support blockers to create volumes with different print parameters (place a blocker so it overlaps with your model, under &lt;strong&gt;Per Model Settings&lt;/strong&gt; select &lt;strong&gt;Modify settings for overlaps&lt;/strong&gt;, load whatever parameters you like, and adjust them)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Poke your printbed to check if it has a wobble because it shouldn't, also if your printer shakes violently while at work you could lower your speed/acceleration/jerk settings. I'm theorizing but I think it could cause similar issues, though for me it was only ever a problem in direct drive printers, which would make sense because of bigger printhead inertia.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="32028" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2022-05-11T13:05:49.533" LastActivityDate="2022-05-11T13:05:49.533" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19374" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18310" CreationDate="2022-05-12T07:40:10.177" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, ABS can be dye sublimated quite easily using a press, timing is the main issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PLA can also be dye sublimated if you're careful but will lose a lot of volume due to the heat and pressure. Not too bad if you print solid, but with infill expect the infill to collapse, or melt (unsure which).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PETG is excellent for Dye sublimation. Like ABS it's all in the timing but the result is superior.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31811" LastEditorUserId="31811" LastEditDate="2022-10-03T09:20:37.527" LastActivityDate="2022-10-03T09:20:37.527" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19375" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-05-12T12:50:28.980" Score="1" ViewCount="426" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's not CoreXY, it's not H-Bot and it's definitly not a bedslinger. What do you call this type of motion system?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13550" LastActivityDate="2022-05-12T13:25:44.597" Title="What is the type of motion system of the Ender 5 called?" Tags="|creality-ender-5|creality|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19376" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19375" CreationDate="2022-05-12T13:25:44.597" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's a plain cartesian motion system that's basically the same as an Ender 3/bedslinger, except that the X gantry moves along the Y axis rather than the Z, and is driven by belt rather than lead screw. So far this is pretty much identical to an Ender 3 with belt-driven Z mod, just rotated 90 degrees. I'm not sure there's any particular name for it. Cartesian motion systems have lots of variations for the specifics of how each axis moves, and most don't seem to have dedicated names unless there's a reason to talk about good or bad properties of a whole class (as is the case with bedslingers).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2022-05-12T13:25:44.597" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19377" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13676" CreationDate="2022-05-12T15:16:02.240" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I see this is an old post but I type anyway if someone else stumbles up in here with the same problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First of all, I have a Qidi X-max printer and it printed exactly as in the picture. I am not 100 percent sure because pictures don't tell everything. I googled it very hard to find people that had the same issue. I only find this but it didn't help me so much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I took apart my printing head on the machine, it is built with a direct extruder. I found some screws were not tightened and the block was a bit loose. I could screw it in 1 whole turn. After that, I cleaned the gear for the extruder so all the old filament was gone. There was not much filament but better do it properly. After that, I screwed all back and it was gone. I can't say for sure what was the exact cause. But if I have to guess I think it was because of not having properly tightened screws. This problem occurred every time when it was starting a new layer. It was not squeezing properly from the beginning and after maybe 3-4 mm everything squeezing as it should. New layers and seams were affected by this. Holes at the beginning of the layer and holes in seams. I also tried increasing the temp and flow. Flow helped a little but not much. So check all the screws. The ones I found were holding the print head. If that doesn't help do as I did and see if that fixes the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CRaZI.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CRaZI.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Pnqnq.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Pnqnq.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EHon5.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EHon5.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="34123" LastEditorUserId="34123" LastEditDate="2022-05-13T01:42:53.643" LastActivityDate="2022-05-13T01:42:53.643" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19378" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19383" CreationDate="2022-05-12T15:32:38.177" Score="0" ViewCount="109" Body="&lt;p&gt;Blender software has a nice mesh analysis add-on called ”3D Print Toolbox&amp;quot;. It is making us give it a second look for our 3D printing workflow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other hand, MeshLab is very nice to have mesh repair tools.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I see the errors in the Blender, and then I close the program. And then I open MeshLab and make the corrections. The goal is to produce the model with a 3D printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a possibility to do the analysis in MeshLab as well? How?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23759" LastActivityDate="2022-05-12T23:29:54.263" Title="Blender add-on &quot;3D Print Toolbox&quot; and MeshLab" Tags="|3d-models|blender|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19379" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18548" CreationDate="2022-05-12T21:38:35.350" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Linear print speed is widely written in marketing material and in filament manufacturers' official print setting recommendations, and is the value talked about by naive users, including a number of popular YouTube personalities. &lt;strong&gt;However, in most contexts it's at best the wrong number, and more often, meaingless.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, you will see printer manufacturers bragging that they can print at &amp;quot;250 mm/s&amp;quot;, and it turns out what they mean is that, when you set the print speed in the slicer to &amp;quot;250 mm/s&amp;quot;, it works. However, their profile has the acceleration set to 500 mm/s², and you need a straight line all the way across the bed to accelerate up to that speed momentarily before starting to slow down again, and overall average prints come out 5% faster than when you set it to &amp;quot;90 mm/s&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you set this kind of lying (or incompetence, if you accept Hanlon's Razor) aside, and only talk about the actual &lt;em&gt;velocity achieved&lt;/em&gt; under an acceleration profile, linear speed becomes meaningful, but probably not the right number, because it's missing any information about the actual limiting factors. Provided the speed isn't beyond the max RPM of your stepper motors (around 650 RPM for typical motors on 24V printers), &lt;strong&gt;any printer&lt;/strong&gt; can print at that speed as long as your layer height is thin enough or your lines are narrow enough. In fact if you go look at a few of the top &amp;quot;1000 mm/s&amp;quot; YouTube videos, they're using 0.1 mm layer height or thinner - which is easy to do, but not interesting to most people. It's not helping you print &lt;em&gt;faster&lt;/em&gt; because now you have twice as many (or more) layers to print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Volumetric flow rate takes all of that into account. If you print at 20 mm³/s and I print at 10 mm³/s (and if these are actual average flow over the whole print, not just a speed limit that's rarely achieved due to acceleration profile limits), your print will finish in half the time of mine. That is a meaningful speed - one that can't be used to lie/mislead by printing thin layers or whatever. Moreover, it's the limit you need to know, for your particular hotend, extruder, and filament type, in order to be able to decide what speed to print at (whether you control this via volumetric flow limits or computing the corresponding linear speed limits yourself). If you're reading the filament manufacturer's recommendations, they didn't say it but they probably wrote those for 0.4 mm line width and 0.2 mm layer height, so you should multiply by 0.08 mm² to get the volumetric rate they intended.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This gets more important with slicers, particularly the upcoming Cura 5, which use varying line width (and thus varying relationship between the linear speed and volumetric speed) to extrude your layers. Now a single linear speed doesn't suffice to give you max performance while also staying within the physical limits of what you can extrude. Cura 5 has &amp;quot;Flow Equalization&amp;quot; to speed up or slow down to keep the volumetric rate matching what it would be at the nominal line width and speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, linear speed in mm/s is meaningful &lt;em&gt;sometimes&lt;/em&gt; - particularly, if you're showcasing the printer's motion system. High voltage steppers, larger pulleys, servo motors, etc. all can achieve some very high linear speeds (over 1000 mm/s) that ordinary 24V steppers (much less 12V ones on older printers) with normal size pulleys simply cannot do. Even if these speeds are not usable for print moves (because the volumetric flow rate becomes the limiting factor for what you can do), they're always usable for travel moves, which can easily be 25% or more of the time spent in complex prints.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastEditorUserId="11157" LastEditDate="2022-05-12T21:45:26.293" LastActivityDate="2022-05-12T21:45:26.293" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19380" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-05-12T21:43:51.987" Score="3" ViewCount="1663" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to put relief text on curved surface but can't find way to do that in OpenSCAD. I'm aware it's possible to bend text in Blender and then &lt;code&gt;import stl&lt;/code&gt;, but I don't like this workflow. I found sort of working solution but it's not perfect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$fn=50;&#xA;&#xA;module bend_text(caption, angle, text_height, text_width, text_depth, steps=10, k=1) {&#xA;    dh = text_height / steps;&#xA;    r = text_height / (angle * PI / 180);&#xA;    h0 = - text_height / 2;&#xA;    translate([0, 0, -r])&#xA;    rotate([angle / 2, 0, 0])&#xA;    for(i=[0:steps-1]) {&#xA;        rotate([-i * angle/steps, 0, 0])&#xA;        translate([0, -(dh * i + h0), r / k])&#xA;        intersection() {&#xA;            linear_extrude(text_depth) &#xA;                text(caption, valign=&amp;quot;center&amp;quot;, halign=&amp;quot;center&amp;quot;);&#xA;            translate([0, dh * i + h0, 0]) &#xA;                cube([text_width, dh, text_width], center=true);&#xA;        }&#xA;    }&#xA;}&#xA;&#xA;bend_text(&amp;quot;test&amp;quot;, angle=90, text_height=9, text_width=30, text_depth=1, steps=10, k=1.1);&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0zq1h.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0zq1h.png&quot; alt=&quot;test&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there better way?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="34129" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2022-05-16T11:53:39.623" LastActivityDate="2023-10-20T02:34:57.467" Title="Can OpenSCAD bend text (project it on curved surface)?" Tags="|openscad|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19381" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19380" CreationDate="2022-05-12T21:55:31.493" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The workflow you're using is the only way I'm aware of, and it's at least respectable. You can abstract it as a module to apply to arbitrary children to make it somewhat less ugly and more reusable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In theory, I think it should be possible to make an openscad transformation (in openscad itself, not in the scad language) that applies to arbitrary 3D objects by performing a 2D conformal map in each cross section perpendicular to a given axis, to achieve effects like this, without the possibility of breaking geometry. But I'm not aware of anyone working on that. I'll probably propose it at some point, and hopefully it won't get shot down as mathematically unsound (which it might be; I'm not sure).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2022-05-12T21:55:31.493" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19382" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19380" CreationDate="2022-05-12T21:56:01.647" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can't say if this is better than your method, but it is a library resource specific to your requirements.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/brodykenrick/text_on_OpenSCAD&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Text_on OpenSCAD&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The library covers various shapes, including cylindrical:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PAvVb.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PAvVb.png&quot; alt=&quot;text on cylinders&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Image from linked site. Also from the site: &amp;quot;Only works with OpenSCAD v 2014.xx and later...&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pursuant to the comments, another step may provide the desired result. Thinking for the cylinder primitive, once the text is placed and protruding a sufficient amount, creating a difference() with the inner cut location an appropriate distance from the primary cylinder should create curved surfaces to the text.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Envision a cylinder slightly smaller in diameter than an appropriate piece of pipe. As the pipe is lowered onto the cylinder, the text is &amp;quot;shaved&amp;quot; away. The &amp;quot;shaving pipe&amp;quot; outer diameter is insignificant, as long as it's not too thin, and the inner diameter of that pipe is dependent on the diameter of the primitive and the desired height of the curved text.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastEditorUserId="854" LastEditDate="2023-10-12T19:22:44.590" LastActivityDate="2023-10-12T19:22:44.590" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19383" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19378" CreationDate="2022-05-12T23:29:54.263" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Meshlab has a bunch of tools for that under 'Filters', you'd need to read the documentation for specifics as your needs may vary from model to model.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But it's much the same as the Blender addon with the 'Cleaning and Repairing' options to merge vertices, close holes etc,.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31811" LastActivityDate="2022-05-12T23:29:54.263" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19385" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13382" CreationDate="2022-05-13T22:40:44.543" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;In case anyone else also runs into this problem and has tried everything above, here is how you fix it for good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While the direct drive extruder might work, it may seem odd to some that the system that previously worked fine now doesn't and needs a complete rebuild.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem is caused by a faulty cooling fan for the heat sink. Replace the AXIAL fan on the hotend. That is not the radial fan that is used to cool the print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The devious thing about this problem is that the symptoms occur seemingly randomly which is caused by the rather slow heat transfer in the heat sink. At some point during the print a critical temperature is reached which deforms/lengthens the heat sink and opens up gaps in the path of the filament. Those gaps cause the filament to get stuck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other devious thing is that the cooling fan appears to be working alright but is not. I assume the rotational speed is lower than would be necessary but that can not be verified with the means currently at my disposal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="34141" LastActivityDate="2022-05-13T22:40:44.543" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19386" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5145" CreationDate="2022-05-14T17:01:04.620" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been building 3D printers for a few years and working in the computer science field for over 2 decades. Here's a simple trick I use for adjusting your extruder steps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Tweak your flow rate till it's where it should be. Then mark down&#xA;the percentage it's at.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Go into your configuration file and use that percentage to adjust the number of steps. So if &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$x$&lt;/span&gt; is the number of steps and our flowrate is at 40 % to be extruding normal then:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$x * 0.4 =$&lt;/span&gt; new step count&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Save the file and compile.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="34148" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2022-05-17T10:53:39.673" LastActivityDate="2022-05-17T10:53:39.673" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19388" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-05-15T12:54:11.757" Score="0" ViewCount="169" Body="&lt;p&gt;Tronxy P802M I believe. PLA. The calibration cube is tapered on one side of the X-axis only. Everything else looks good. The top is almost 1 mm narrower than the bottom, but only on X-axis.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dWF7s.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Photo of calibration cube with printing error&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dWF7s.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Photo of calibration cube with printing error&quot; title=&quot;Photo of calibration cube with printing error&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="34155" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2022-05-16T09:06:36.580" LastActivityDate="2022-05-16T09:06:36.580" Title="X-axis taper problem" Tags="|print-quality|troubleshooting|tronxy-p802|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19390" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19396" CreationDate="2022-05-17T08:14:10.560" Score="3" ViewCount="381" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm using an Ender 3 v2 with Jyers firmware.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm looking for a firmware / OctoPrint plugin which allows browsing G-codes stored in my OctoPrint storage and starting them directly from my printer's screen like it's stored on SD card. I would like to have all advantages that OctoPrint provides but not need to use my computer/smartphone to start printing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any way to do this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="34171" LastEditorUserId="36802" LastEditDate="2023-11-22T17:20:18.347" LastActivityDate="2023-11-22T17:20:18.347" Title="Browsing and printing print files (G-code) stored in OctoPrint from printer's screen" Tags="|creality-ender-3|octoprint|jyers|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19391" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19367" CreationDate="2022-05-17T09:48:35.730" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Loosen the screws holding the far right hand side of the belt cog in place on the gantry, tighten the belt by moving the cog outwards until the belt looks horizontal, tighten the screws back up and test. It's a pretty intuitive procedure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To see if the belt is OK, just visually inspect it. It's just a belt, if it has splits or something then it has issues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31811" LastActivityDate="2022-05-17T09:48:35.730" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19392" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19338" CreationDate="2022-05-17T16:59:47.153" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As worked out by dandavis in the comments, this is not plausible:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;thermistors likely use 3.3v or 5v signaling. It would take a lot of sag for those rails to drop below set voltage if fed 12v or 24v; all they need is a volt or two above output. As far as the effect of a sag on the 3.3/5v line, it's impossible to say universally because the thermistor could be on either side of the voltage divider, so it could be too high or too low, or it could use a current source unaffected until the rail dropped to &amp;lt;1v. It could even be a thermocouple instead, so the effect would be how the gain amp responds to sag or the MCU glitches...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found a schematic and it's on the gnd side of the divider. So that's half the equation solved...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[The EPCOS 100K B57560G104F] is an NTC, so it would appear as warmer. That said, I highly doubt your 3.3v &amp;quot;rail&amp;quot; sags, and if it does, the whole controller would freeze up and nothing would operate&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It turns out the PTFE in the heatbreak was badly burnt out, and friction from this may account for at least a large part of the loss of flow (I've been able to get back some but not all). But I still have not fully explained or solved the problem. In any case, the power supply issue does not seem relevant, answering this question as stated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2022-05-17T16:59:47.153" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19393" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-05-17T18:30:22.403" Score="2" ViewCount="624" Body="&lt;h2&gt;&lt;strong&gt;NEW UPDATE BELOW&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am having trouble finding the cause for this under-extrusion at start/end of each layer.&#xA;Something changes halfway into the print creating a visible seam at some specific layer height.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This also creates dimensional inaccuracy making my parts unusable.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;The first layers are just fine - roundness deviation around 0.03 mm!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Any ideas on which settings I should look into?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Settings&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Printer:  Dremel 3D45 (newest firmware)&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Slicer:   Dremel DigiLab (also tried Cura Ultimaker 5.0)&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Filament: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.dasfilament.de/filament-refill/petg-1-75-mm/305/petg-filament-1-75-mm-feuerrot-refill-800-g?c=57&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;PET-G&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Printing Temperature: 250 °C&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Initial Temperature: 240 °C&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Final Temperature: 235 °C&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Flow: 105 %&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Retraction Distance: 1 mm (tried 3 - 1 mm)&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Retraction Speed: 40 mm/s (tried 60 - 20 mm/s)&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Prime Amount: 0.6 mm³  (tried 0 - 0.6)&#xA;Retraction Minimum Travel: 0&#xA;Retract at Layer Change: Off&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Maximum Retraction Count: 90 (could this be a problem?)&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Minimun Extrusion Distance Window: 1 mm&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Print Speed: 35 mm/s&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Wall Sprint Speed: 30 mm/s&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Combing Mode: All&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Fan Speed: 50 %&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Seam: Shortest&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2oBBX.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Photo of the top of a 3D printed model showing printing errors&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2oBBX.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Photo of the top of a 3D printed model showing printing errors&quot; title=&quot;Photo of the top of a 3D printed model showing printing errors&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lueum.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Photo of the side of a 3D printed model showing printing errors&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lueum.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Photo of the side of a 3D printed model showing printing errors&quot; title=&quot;Photo of the side of a 3D printed model showing printing errors&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update 18/05&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fixed the seam by setting the alignment to random and changing retraction settings.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Remaining problem is the inaccuracy right next to the Y axis (see marked area on the pictures). Besides a hardware issue I cant think about any slicer setting which would adress this deviation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Diameter X: 30.02 mm&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Diameter Y: 30.04 mm&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Diameter Marked: 29.90 mm&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZKcvO.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZKcvO.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;0.13 deviation in this area&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VxHCQ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VxHCQ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Fixed seam&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="34178" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2022-05-18T07:41:44.480" LastActivityDate="2022-05-18T07:41:44.480" Title="Under-extrusion halfway into print - Dremel 3D45 -PETG" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|underextrusion|retraction|dimensional-accuracy|dremel-3d45|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19394" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19393" CreationDate="2022-05-17T22:49:44.997" Score="3" Body="&lt;h1&gt;That's not under extrusion&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That is the seam, and technically it is over extruding around it. You will find that if you turn the item, you have such a spot on every layer, actually with an inner and outer perimeter, you'll have two visible seams. The seam is where the extrusion line meets itself, and thus the extrusion has to stop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastActivityDate="2022-05-17T22:49:44.997" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19395" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19393" CreationDate="2022-05-18T01:09:41.687" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&amp;quot;Prime Amount&amp;quot; sounds like &amp;quot;extra prime on unretract&amp;quot;, which &lt;em&gt;necessarily&lt;/em&gt; deposits a blob of extra material at the location of unretract, including the Z seam. Setting this to zero should help reduce the problem. This setting is a hack to compensate for material loss to oozing during travel, but if you have oozing you should just fix that instead rather than chucking out a blob to make up for it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2022-05-18T01:09:41.687" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19396" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19390" CreationDate="2022-05-18T08:00:31.047" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Accessing the print files stored on OctoPrint managed locations other than the SD card (i.e. where OctoPrint is installed; RPi or laptop, etc.) is not possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other way around is possible, you can access SD stored codes from OctoPrint. This is possible because the there are M-codes in place to list the files on the SD-card (&lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#M20:_List_SD_card&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;M20: List SD card&lt;/a&gt;) or handle files to load and start them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To access files from the printer UI to an external storage space would require many information on where it can get the files, through which connection; there are no M-codes in place to do that. Basically you are either printing from OctoPrint or from the printer. You state that: &lt;code&gt;I would like to have all advantages that OctoPrint provides but not need to use my computer/smartphone to start printing&lt;/code&gt;, how would that be possible if the printer itself initiates the print? OctoPrint is a print manager, it sends your G-code line by line to the printer, you are requesting to start a print from the print manager through a command on the printer itself. If you want OctoPrint managed prints to benefit from the plug-ins, you need to start the print using your phone or a browser. Personally, I never look or use the printer display on my OctoPrint managed printers, you don't need the display if OctoPrint is able to present all the data to you through a browser.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2022-05-18T10:31:03.130" LastActivityDate="2022-05-18T10:31:03.130" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19397" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-05-18T09:26:52.453" Score="3" ViewCount="300" Body="&lt;p&gt;When using a filament based printer, what operator behaviors increase the frequency at which a bed must be relevelled between prints?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="29097" LastActivityDate="2022-05-18T10:29:34.807" Title="Filament based printing what operator behaviors contribute to an increased need to relevel a bed?" Tags="|bed-leveling|fdm|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19398" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19397" CreationDate="2022-05-18T09:38:11.027" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The only ones I have found are.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Manually putting pressure on the bed when removing prints.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Removing the bed covering, eg a glass plate&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Damaging the bed in some way. For example my bed has high spots on it (always has). This means that if I remove the glass plate I use and put it back, it sits slightly different. If I orient the glass a different way from prior it always needs levelling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Changing filament types.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Changing cover types eg magnetic and glass are different thicknesses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Changing first layer needs. Sometimes I need the first layer squished a bit depending what I'm doing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lastly on my Ender 3 Pro if the z-axis switch isn't screwed in tight enough it can slip down a fraction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31811" LastActivityDate="2022-05-18T09:38:11.027" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19399" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19397" CreationDate="2022-05-18T10:29:34.807" Score="4" Body="&lt;h1&gt;Mechanical interaction&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Operator induced regular actions&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When an operator reaches into the machine and operates something on the bed, this can induce errors that slowly accumulate. The most typical operation would be to remove something from the printbed, cleaning the printbed or swapping the printbed wholesale all can result in a slow but steady unleveling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regular leveling can counteract this. With good training, you might vet away with once in a dozen or less.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Maintenance of/work on the printhead&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;During maintenance such as swapping nozzles, checking connections and cleaning the printhead, there is a very high chance that the printbed is touched due to the usually very cramped area one has to work in. For example, it is near impossible not to touch the printed when swapping nozzles on my Ender3, if I want to use my torque screwdriver. This is true even with the Z-Axis at the highest position, due to the dimensions of my torque screwdriver.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By virtue of the work on the printhead, the 0-level is usually thrown off anyway, and as such a relevel is &lt;strong&gt;always&lt;/strong&gt; in order after any printhead maintenance more invasive than cleaning the fan ducts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Avoiding nozzle swaps unless necessary can reduce the workload - it might be cheaper in the long term to have two machines with different setups than one machine where you swap the nozzle for each print - unless you charge for the accompanying work on the setup change.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Operator induced irregular actions&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are cases where the operator did not plan to operate in the area of the printbed but actually might impact it by reckless or accidental action. In other words: accidents happen, tools drop onto the printbed and hands end there if an operator stumbles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While releveling might not be &lt;em&gt;necessary&lt;/em&gt; after all such accidental contacts, occasionally checking it and fixing it is good practice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Mechanical failure&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The way you test and maintain your Z-level is paramount in how often you need to validate the Z-level. If your springs are too strong and push the leveling knobs off on their own or your Z-sensor is mounted only weakly, then these create problems on their own.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that even in normal operation, the oscillation of the printer will make any bolt under stress that is not glued in place or jammed in tight loosen a little over time. This does include the bed leveling knobs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastActivityDate="2022-05-18T10:29:34.807" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19400" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-05-19T02:46:02.567" Score="8" ViewCount="20149" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just upgraded the nozzle (to 1 mm) on an Ender 3v2 and want to make a test print.  I added a new printer for the new nozzle size.... and can't find a setting for it.  Some screenshots on the internet show a nozzle diameter setting in the machine settings, but I do not have that. (&lt;strong&gt;Manage printers&lt;/strong&gt; &amp;gt; &lt;strong&gt;Printers&lt;/strong&gt; &amp;gt; &lt;strong&gt;Machine Settings&lt;/strong&gt; &amp;gt; &lt;strong&gt;Extruder 1&lt;/strong&gt;).  Obviously, this was the first place I looked, and I also looked in the sidebar several times.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have Cura 4.11.0 and am using the Ender 3 profile.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've seen arguments about it's no longer a valid setting because line width is more important, I've seen discussions that you need to install some mods to get to that variable, and I've seen people say to make a custom printer and then you can change the nozzle diameter.  I've also seen lots of people asking for help, and sometimes even posting &amp;quot;Oh I found it&amp;quot; later, but no details on where the setting is, why it's missing, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://old.reddit.com/r/ender3/comments/bw5d43/nozzle_diameter_settings_in_cura_40_missing/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://old.reddit.com/r/ender3/comments/bw5d43/nozzle_diameter_settings_in_cura_40_missing/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://community.ultimaker.com/topic/21438-suggestion-easy-change-nozzle-size/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://community.ultimaker.com/topic/21438-suggestion-easy-change-nozzle-size/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5576" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2022-05-19T03:20:09.787" LastActivityDate="2023-04-15T09:52:32.803" Title="Where can I change the nozzle diameter in Cura? Why is mine missing?" Tags="|creality-ender-3|ultimaker-cura|nozzle|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19401" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19400" CreationDate="2022-05-19T03:23:08.730" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is for Cura 4.13.1 but it shouldn't be very different than 4.11.0. This is also for the standard Ender 3 profile; it is not necessary to create a new profile for a different nozzle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the main window, select your filament then a drop-down window will appear with the &lt;strong&gt;Material&lt;/strong&gt; and &lt;strong&gt;Nozzle Size&lt;/strong&gt;. Select &lt;strong&gt;Nozzle Size&lt;/strong&gt; and pick the desired size from the drop-down menu.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23193" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2022-05-19T14:53:01.307" LastActivityDate="2022-05-19T14:53:01.307" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19403" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19400" CreationDate="2022-05-19T14:11:33.723" Score="5" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Where can I change the nozzle diameter in Cura?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The best way forward is to go back to the Creality Ender 3 print profile, if so, you can use &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/19401/&quot;&gt;this answer&lt;/a&gt;. So, you can select the correct nozzle size instantly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/q04bU.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Ender 3 profile nozzle selection&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/q04bU.png&quot; alt=&quot;Ender 3 profile nozzle selection&quot; title=&quot;Ender 3 profile nozzle selection&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why is mine missing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But, if you created a new printer profile, that option is not available. This is because that option is not available in custom print profiles. In order to use that option, the printer profile requires a variants configuration option; e.g. &lt;code&gt;&amp;quot;variants_name&amp;quot;: &amp;quot;Nozzle Size&amp;quot;&lt;/code&gt; for the Ender 3 profile and for Ultimaker printers that is &lt;code&gt;&amp;quot;variants_name&amp;quot;: &amp;quot;Print core&amp;quot;&lt;/code&gt; as they use a printer nozzle core concept. In order to use &amp;quot;variants&amp;quot;, the printer profile needs to be aware that variants are available (from the Cura wiki as linked below):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;   # Whether your machine has the possibility to choose different variants.&#xA;   # If this is set to &amp;quot;true&amp;quot;, you will see the variant selection menu in Cura for your machine.&#xA;   # By variants, we meant nozzles. You can have some specific variant profiles defined in folder&#xA;   # &amp;quot;resources/variants&amp;quot;. See files there as examples.&#xA;   &amp;quot;has_variants&amp;quot;: true,&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;For more information on generating custom Cura printer profiles look into &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/Ultimaker/Cura/wiki/Definition-Files-Explained&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Cura wiki &amp;quot;Definition File Types and the Base Definition Files&amp;quot;&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/Ultimaker/Cura/wiki/Adding-new-machine-profiles-to-Cura&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Cura wiki &amp;quot;Adding new machine profiles to Cura&amp;quot;&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So if you're profile doesn't support variants we need to revisit:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Where can I change the nozzle diameter in Cura?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The nozzle diameter is part of the printer configuration, but, linked to the &lt;strong&gt;Line Width&lt;/strong&gt; property. You therefor can set the line width to 1 mm to achieve the same. With respect to the nozzle diameter, it is also found for the custom printer layout using the following: with reference to version 4.13.0, the nozzle diameter is set in the machine setup. From the main menu go to &lt;strong&gt;Settings&lt;/strong&gt;-&amp;gt;&lt;strong&gt;Printer&lt;/strong&gt;-&amp;gt;&lt;strong&gt;Manage Printers...&lt;/strong&gt;. Now select your printer (and activate it to be able to) select &lt;strong&gt;Machine Settings&lt;/strong&gt; and go to the extruder tab sheet to change the nozzle diameter (option &lt;strong&gt;Nozzle size&lt;/strong&gt; under nozzle settings).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IYnKw.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Cura printer preferences window&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IYnKw.png&quot; alt=&quot;Cura printer preferences window&quot; title=&quot;Cura printer preferences window&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/768Qj.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Printer settings&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/768Qj.png&quot; alt=&quot;Printer settings&quot; title=&quot;Printer settings&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8bdgC.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Extruder settings&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8bdgC.png&quot; alt=&quot;Extruder settings&quot; title=&quot;Extruder settings&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you change the setting of the nozzle size you will see that this updates the option &amp;quot;&lt;strong&gt;Line Width&lt;/strong&gt;&amp;quot; of the &lt;em&gt;Quality&lt;/em&gt; group print settings to the same size. E.g. after changing the 0.4 mm nozzle value to 0.6 mm you will find the line width value updated:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/s3Fz0.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Updated line width property&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/s3Fz0.png&quot; alt=&quot;Updated line width property&quot; title=&quot;Updated line width property&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2022-05-19T15:16:50.017" LastActivityDate="2022-05-19T15:16:50.017" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19404" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-05-20T08:51:23.143" Score="1" ViewCount="619" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/o6UIb.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/o6UIb.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the 4pin connector next to this USB on the Creality 4.2.3 board?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="34206" LastActivityDate="2022-05-20T08:51:23.143" Title="What is the 4pin connector next to this USB on the Creality 4.2.3 board?" Tags="|creality|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19405" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-05-20T12:39:25.517" Score="2" ViewCount="521" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking for a way to slice up a 3D model and then get the profiles of each individual layer. I need to 2D print the different layers (with the layer height that I define) for a Styrofoam craft.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you very much!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="34208" LastActivityDate="2022-05-20T17:19:58.137" Title="Any way to print all the layers of a 3D (STL)?" Tags="|3d-models|stl|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19406" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19405" CreationDate="2022-05-20T12:58:40.237" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;With OpenSCAD, you can &lt;code&gt;import&lt;/code&gt; the STL file and apply &lt;code&gt;projection&lt;/code&gt; with &lt;code&gt;cut=true&lt;/code&gt; at successive Z-axis &lt;code&gt;translate&lt;/code&gt; operations, and write out the result as SVG. This can all be automated from the command line to product a series of SVG files for your layers to &amp;quot;2D print&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2022-05-20T12:58:40.237" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19407" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19405" CreationDate="2022-05-20T15:09:15.023" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm a fan of OpenSCAD and have used the method suggested in the first answer. For non-OpenSCAD users, another option exists, which I've also used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PrusaSlicer is a free 3D printer slicing program. One can configure layer heights as desired for the material thickness, even though it's not likely one will find a printer with such values, except perhaps concrete 3D printers!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once configured and sliced, the exported file (configured for a Prusa SL1 printer) is renamed to .ZIP and the files within extracted. The files of note are going to be PNG format, one file per layer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The settings within the slicer software have to be &amp;quot;adjusted&amp;quot; for your creation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In Print Settings tab, change the layer height to match your material thickness. Also in the Print Settings tab, turn off supports and turn off pad (left column selections).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In Material Settings tab, change the Initial layer height to match your overall layer thickness. Unchanged, it remains the default 0.05 mm, unlikely to match your building material.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the Printer Settings tab, change the bed shape to match your objective plus a bit of spacing around the item. Change the max height appropriately.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Set the Display Width parameters to match your output. Excessively large values will result in small model segments in a large blank area. Set pixel values to desired resolution of the output image file. For example, 200 is equivalent to a typical inkjet printer resolution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I performed all of the above steps for a simple cube, exported the file to the default .SL1 extension, renamed it to .ZIP and extracted to a folder. The folder contained a number of support files for the MSLA printer, but also a full list of the layer .PNG files. Depending on your system settings, you may be able to change the extension in the Save dialog to .ZIP.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If PNG is not a suitable format, one can convert them to SVG using Inkscape bitmap trace or similar software.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I recommend to create a model with some form of registration incorporated to the design. One can create and subtract a pair of cylinders, for example, that travels through each layer, allowing insertion of a dowel to more easily stack the slices for assembly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One can add primitives within the slicer, but they fall to the bed and also cannot be subtracted, at least so far as my limited research has shown. I've used Fusion 360 and Meshmixer to create such modifications.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another aspect of the slicer is the ability to hollow the model, which would provide for some interesting constructions as well as possibly easier alignment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This should be a .GIF animation of the results of my testing on Astronaut Phil A Ment, 1 millimeter layer height:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ES8A3.gif&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ES8A3.gif&quot; alt=&quot;astronaut slicing animation&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;stltopng conversion of original STL file of Phil:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/of3mZ.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/of3mZ.png&quot; alt=&quot;phil a ment model&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastEditorUserId="854" LastEditDate="2022-05-20T17:19:58.137" LastActivityDate="2022-05-20T17:19:58.137" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19408" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-05-20T22:54:54.967" Score="1" ViewCount="905" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just replaced my PTFE-lined heatbreak with a Slice Engineering Copperhead, and am mostly happy with the results, but in the process of buying it and learning not to jam it, I came across with another design that seems common in cheap &amp;quot;clone&amp;quot; bimetal heatbreaks, and I'd like to understand the differences.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Copperhead has (coated) copper for both the threaded part of the heatbreak that goes in the block, and the larger part that goes in the heatsink, with a thin stainless steel tube running through both:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pOsbG.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pOsbG.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Copperhead C-E heatbreak&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In particular, it has an external lip of sorts where it meets with the nozzle. My understanding is that the copper in the upper part is to better dissipate heat, while the copper in the lower part is to make it part of the melt zone, giving a longer overall melt zone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other design I've seen has only two pieces: a stainless steel or titanium alloy part that threads into the heat block, press fit into the larger copper part that goes in the heat sink:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3JwL9.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3JwL9.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Generic bi-metal heatbreak&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since the tube and threads are all one piece, there's a nice looking chamfer where the filament exits the heatbreak and enters the nozzle. As an example, see &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B0971FNCM4&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this product listing&lt;/a&gt;, though there are lots of similar ones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Presumably this alternate design has worse melt performance, but does it have advantages too? Less heat creep? Fewer jams due to the chamfer? Better mating with the wider, 3-part opening of CHT nozzles? Are any of these design differences well-motivated engineering decisions, or just chosen for cheap manufacturing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastEditorUserId="11157" LastEditDate="2022-05-21T23:55:13.000" LastActivityDate="2022-05-21T23:55:13.000" Title="Pros and cons of the two(+?) kinds of bimetal heatbreaks" Tags="|heated-bed|hotend|all-metal-hotend|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19409" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19410" CreationDate="2022-05-21T10:35:36.947" Score="0" ViewCount="234" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently had a print failure/crash, where the print stuck to the nozzle and forced molten filament back into the print head, fans, and heater block.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I changed the nozzle for a new 0.4mm same as existing.  I shortened the bowden tube by ~8mm to remove some crispiness, and the push-lock connector on top of the print head, which was full of solidified PLA.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The hotend was scraped clean of PLA, and the wiring was inspected.  The silicon sock was unhappy but I managed to get it to stay in place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The part-cooling fan duct was deformed, but I have reshaped it as well as I could.   The part-cooling air is probably slightly less than it was.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7eDR7.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7eDR7.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm printing some Gridfinity bins, and the base just isn't filling in completely and there is also more stringiness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The sides are not joining up at all, and are just a series of separate strands.  They do merge somewhat at the corners.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/J1Rrx.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/J1Rrx.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My printer worked much better before the crash - what do I have to focus on to improve this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All print jobs since the reassembly are lower in quality, with one in three showing these large &amp;quot;wire bundles&amp;quot; look but all of them are not as good as before-prints.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12956" LastActivityDate="2022-05-22T02:18:57.727" Title="What's causing this lack of layer adhesion after a crash?" Tags="|creality-ender-3|print-quality|stringing|gridfinity|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19410" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19409" CreationDate="2022-05-21T13:36:48.023" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Judging from the picture, you have serious inconsistent/under extrusion, not just on the lines that aren't adhering but everywhere, and this is almost surely the source of your problems:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I shortened the bowden tube by ~8mm to remove some crispiness, and the push-lock connector on top of the print head, which was full of solidified PLA.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ability to correctly extrude material is highly dependent on having an unconstrained path for the filament from the extruder gear to the melt zone. Cutting the hotend side of the bowden tube, or even just removing it from the hotend and reinstalling it, is very error-prone even if you're experienced with doing it. Here are some of the things that can go wrong:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;End of tube not cut square (perpendicular): There will be a gap between the tube and the nozzle mating surface on one side, allowing material to squeeze into the gap and jam.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Tube not tensioned against nozzle: Again, material can squeeze into a gap and jam.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Tube overly tensioned against nozzle: Tube will compress, reducing the inner diameter so that the filament has a lot more friction going through it. Especially at the end, it may bend inwards and make a lip that's very hard to pass and that interferes with retraction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's the procedure I recommend:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Use a miter-box type tool to hold the PTFE tube for cutting clean perpendicular cut with a razor blade. There are printable tools for this but you may need to find something else if your printer isn't working well enough to print one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Carefully use a razor blade or x-acto knife to chamfer the inner and outer surfaces at the end of the tube just slightly so it can't get a lip from compression against the nozzle. The amount of chamfer should be &lt;em&gt;very slight&lt;/em&gt;, maybe 0.25 mm at most. This probably isn't strictly necessary but helps make sure you have more margin for error. I've also seen folks do this with an appropriate drill bit, but I don't know how to do it that way. Make sure any debris is cleaned up when you're done so bits of PTFE don't clog the nozzle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Thread the tube fitting all the way into the heatsink, then back it off by about 1/4 to 1/3 of a turn (0.25 to 0.33 mm) and press the tube in until it hits the nozzle. Then, tighten it the rest of the way to compress the tube against the nozzle by the distance you backed it out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another option if you already want to do this is switching to an all-metal hotend (can be done just by replacing the heat break, not the whole hotend), but that comes with its own set of gotchas so I wouldn't recommend it unless you have other reasons to want one already.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastEditorUserId="11157" LastEditDate="2022-05-21T23:57:04.430" LastActivityDate="2022-05-21T23:57:04.430" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19411" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-05-21T16:21:34.313" Score="3" ViewCount="9419" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ender 3 Pro, PLA, temps 200 °C and 60 °C.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to not heat the nozzle until after Auto Bed Leveling (CR Touch) is complete.  I can do that in the start G-code, but by then, Cura has already heated the nozzle to the temp specified under material and filament starts oozing out during bed leveling.  I'd rather set a variable to that value and call it with &lt;code&gt;M104&lt;/code&gt; when I'm ready.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the start of Cura's g-code:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;;FLAVOR:Marlin&#xA;;TIME:2888&#xA;;Filament used: 1.96332m&#xA;;Layer height: 0.2&#xA;;MINX:93.266&#xA;;MINY:10.195&#xA;;MINZ:0.2&#xA;;MAXX:126.734&#xA;;MAXY:210.658&#xA;;MAXZ:4.2&#xA;;Generated with Cura_SteamEngine 4.13.1&#xA;M140 S60&#xA;M105&#xA;M190 S60&#xA;M104 S200&#xA;M105&#xA;M109 S200&#xA;M82 ;absolute extrusion mode&#xA;; Ender 3 Custom Start G-code&#xA;G92 E0 ; Reset Extruder&#xA;G28 ; Home all axes&#xA;G29 ; Auto Bed Level (CR Touch)&#xA;G1 Z2.0 F3000 ; Move Z Axis up little to prevent scratching of Heat Bed&#xA;G1 X0.1 Y20 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move to start position&#xA;G1 X0.1 Y200.0 Z0.3 F1500.0 E15 ; Draw the first line&#xA;G1 X0.4 Y200.0 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move to side a little&#xA;G1 X0.4 Y20 Z0.3 F1500.0 E30 ; Draw the second line&#xA;G92 E0 ; Reset Extruder&#xA;...&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The lines right after &amp;quot;Generated with Cura_SteamEngine&amp;quot; are the ones I'd like to change but I can't find them in the Cura app.  I know that 60 °C and 200 °C are the temps defined for bed and nozzle.  Cura inserts them as constants for the &lt;code&gt;M140&lt;/code&gt; and &lt;code&gt;M104&lt;/code&gt; commands.  I'd like Cura to set variables to those values (like &lt;code&gt;{bed_temp} = 60&lt;/code&gt;) so I can refer to that variable when I insert the &lt;code&gt;M140&lt;/code&gt; command in my Custom Start G-code.  Can that be done?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A related question was asked a few years ago and part of the start code example then was:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;; Ender 3 Custom Start G-code&#xA;M104 S{material_print_temperature_layer_0} ; Set Extruder temperature&#xA;M140 S{material_bed_temperature_layer_0} ; Set Heat Bed temperature&#xA;G28 ; Home all axes&#xA;G29 ; BLTOUCH Mesh Generation&#xA;M190 S{material_bed_temperature_layer_0} ; Wait for Heat Bed temperature&#xA;M109 S{material_print_temperature_layer_0} ; Wait for Extruder temperature&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The variable &lt;code&gt;{material_bed_temperature_layer_0}&lt;/code&gt; was already set but I don't know where or how that was done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="34216" LastEditorUserId="4897" LastEditDate="2022-05-21T17:08:28.640" LastActivityDate="2024-03-28T08:35:42.550" Title="Cura variables and initial G-code commands" Tags="|creality-ender-3|ultimaker-cura|g-code|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19412" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19411" CreationDate="2022-05-21T17:13:53.523" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Go to the &lt;code&gt;Settings&lt;/code&gt; -&amp;gt; &lt;code&gt;Printers&lt;/code&gt; menu from the top menu,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jmivX.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jmivX.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;select your active printer (or &lt;code&gt;Activate&lt;/code&gt; it) and manage your printer trough &lt;code&gt;Machine Settings&lt;/code&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/L3CUC.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/L3CUC.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It will open the printer settings,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rBjqg.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rBjqg.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;there you are able to change the lines you want in the &lt;code&gt;Start G-code&lt;/code&gt; section.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note the default Start G-code doesn't include heating up the bed and core, you need to add these after the &lt;code&gt;G29&lt;/code&gt; in your case. Personally I use heat up bed and continue (&lt;code&gt;M140&lt;/code&gt;), than heat up core and wait till temperature is reached (&lt;code&gt;M109&lt;/code&gt;), then heat up and wait until bed temperature is reached (&lt;code&gt;M190&lt;/code&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2022-05-24T08:26:29.703" LastActivityDate="2022-05-24T08:26:29.703" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19413" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-05-21T19:46:40.403" Score="2" ViewCount="218" Body="&lt;p&gt;Do the add-on noise reduction boards (variously called Schottky diodes, flyback diodes, noise filters) installed ahead of the stepper motors really improve print quality on FDM printers?  I installed them on X and Y axes and can see no difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="33030" LastActivityDate="2022-05-30T16:33:33.640" Title="Do flyback diode filters in stepper circuits improve print quality?" Tags="|print-quality|fdm|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19414" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19416" CreationDate="2022-05-21T23:13:51.640" Score="1" ViewCount="54" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 1.5 inch screen, and I would like to create an adjustable angle plate for the screen, similar to Game boy advanced (shown below)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know how the mechanism works?&#xA;By any chance, is there an adjustable connector that I can put on a 3D printed part to make an adjustable angle plate?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7A5wF.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7A5wF.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="34219" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2022-05-21T23:39:48.320" LastActivityDate="2022-06-21T03:07:30.793" Title="Adjustable Angle for a 1.5 inch OLED screen" Tags="|3d-design|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19415" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19409" CreationDate="2022-05-22T02:18:57.727" Score="1" Body="&lt;h1&gt;SOLVED!&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SUYR7.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SUYR7.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Turns out I hadn't pushed the bowden tube completely home into the hotend on the print head.  So there was a space where molten plastic was spreading out, interfering with both extrusion and retraction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've flipped the bowden tube end-for-end now, and my test job is well-underway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12956" LastActivityDate="2022-05-22T02:18:57.727" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19416" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19414" CreationDate="2022-05-22T03:02:56.863" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You'll need to design a hinge in two parts, probably with a third and fourth part as a cover.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The unit holds position by friction, so it will get sloppier with use as the plastic wears, or you may want to use a metal shaft and bushings.  This will also be affected by the mass of the screen and the torque onto the hinge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From your image, you can clearly see which hoops in the hinge are part of the top and which are coming up from the bottom.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The ribbon cable will pass between the lower and upper in the middle where the two wide hoops are, and not through the ends which will provide the bulk of the support.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to make a case exactly like this, then consider buying a shell instead.   The ifixit step-by-step instructions at &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/Nintendo+Game+Boy+Advance+SP++Shell+Replacement/137582&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/Nintendo+Game+Boy+Advance+SP++Shell+Replacement/137582&lt;/a&gt; are clear and helpful for a complete organ-transplant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The hinge/clutch mechanism used in these is a marvel, you're unlikely to be able to print one without a lot of trial &amp;amp; error, and looks like:&lt;br&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yWkWN.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yWkWN.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;br&gt; From&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://console5.com/store/game-boy-advance-sp-hinge-replacement-case-hinge.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://console5.com/store/game-boy-advance-sp-hinge-replacement-case-hinge.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However people have designed GBA cases - search your favourite STL websites for relevant links.  You may be able to find a case someone else has already designed and done debug.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Potentially useful tool &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dmixers.com/m/275635-gba-sp-hinge-removal-tool-with-handle&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://3dmixers.com/m/275635-gba-sp-hinge-removal-tool-with-handle&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12956" LastActivityDate="2022-05-22T03:02:56.863" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19417" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="937" CreationDate="2022-05-22T03:06:09.067" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Layer lines are failure lines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sometimes I choose to print a part in a weird or sub-optimal orientation just to minimise the load across layer lines when in use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That may mean more support material and longer print time, but a completed part that fails is no use at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12956" LastActivityDate="2022-05-22T03:06:09.067" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19418" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19411" CreationDate="2022-05-22T16:19:26.213" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've sorted this out.  &lt;em&gt;IF&lt;/em&gt; I include my own heating commands in my start G-Code, Cura knows to NOT add its own heating commands at the start of the G-Code file.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The variables I was referring to have dedicated names.&#xA;&lt;code&gt;material_print_temperature_layer_0&lt;/code&gt; is the printing (extruder/nozzle) temp set under Material in Cura.&#xA;&lt;code&gt;material_bed_temperature_layer_0&lt;/code&gt; is the build plate temp set under Material in Cura.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cura substitutes the values of those variables for the variable names in the G-code file.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So to avoid filament ooze during auto bed leveling, I set the nozzle temp to 150 °C (hot, but lower than the defined printing temp and low enough to avoid ooze).  I set the bed temp to its defined temp.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then I auto-level the bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then I heat the nozzle up to its defined printing temp and start the print job.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is my Start G-code:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;; Ender 3 Custom Start G-code&#xA;G92 E0 ; Reset Extruder&#xA;G28 ; Home all axes&#xA;M104 S150 ; Set Extruder temperature for bed leveling&#xA;M140 S{material_bed_temperature_layer_0} ; Set Heat Bed temperature&#xA;M109 S150 ; Wait for Extruder temperature for bed leveling&#xA;M190 S{material_bed_temperature_layer_0} ; Wait for Heat Bed temperature&#xA;G29 ; Auto Bed Level (CR Touch)&#xA;M104 S{material_print_temperature_layer_0} ; Set Extruder temperature&#xA;M109 S{material_print_temperature_layer_0} ; Wait for Extruder temperature&#xA;G1 Z2.0 F3000 ; Move Z Axis up little to prevent scratching of Heat Bed&#xA;G1 X0.1 Y20 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move to start position&#xA;G1 X0.1 Y200.0 Z0.3 F1500.0 E15 ; Draw the first line&#xA;G1 X0.4 Y200.0 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move to side a little&#xA;G1 X0.4 Y20 Z0.3 F1500.0 E30 ; Draw the second line&#xA;G92 E0 ; Reset Extruder&#xA;G1 Z2.0 F3000 ; Move Z Axis up little to prevent scratching of Heat Bed&#xA;G1 X5 Y20 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move over to prevent blob squish&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And this is how Cura writes the G-code file:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;;FLAVOR:Marlin&#xA;;TIME:2888&#xA;;Filament used: 1.96332m&#xA;;Layer height: 0.2&#xA;;MINX:93.266&#xA;;MINY:10.195&#xA;;MINZ:0.2&#xA;;MAXX:126.734&#xA;;MAXY:210.658&#xA;;MAXZ:4.2&#xA;;Generated with Cura_SteamEngine 4.13.1&#xA;M82 ;absolute extrusion mode&#xA;; Ender 3 Custom Start G-code&#xA;G92 E0 ; Reset Extruder&#xA;G28 ; Home all axes&#xA;M104 S150 ; Set Extruder temperature for bed leveling&#xA;M140 S60 ; Set Heat Bed temperature&#xA;M109 S150 ; Wait for Extruder temperature for bed leveling&#xA;M190 S60 ; Wait for Heat Bed temperature&#xA;G29 ; Auto Bed Level (CR Touch)&#xA;M104 S200 ; Set Extruder temperature&#xA;M109 S200 ; Wait for Extruder temperature&#xA;G1 Z2.0 F3000 ; Move Z Axis up little to prevent scratching of Heat Bed&#xA;G1 X0.1 Y20 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move to start position&#xA;G1 X0.1 Y200.0 Z0.3 F1500.0 E15 ; Draw the first line&#xA;G1 X0.4 Y200.0 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move to side a little&#xA;G1 X0.4 Y20 Z0.3 F1500.0 E30 ; Draw the second line&#xA;G92 E0 ; Reset Extruder&#xA;G1 Z2.0 F3000 ; Move Z Axis up little to prevent scratching of Heat Bed&#xA;G1 X5 Y20 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move over to prevent blob squish&#xA;G92 E0&#xA;...&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope this helps someone with a similar question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cheers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="34216" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2022-05-22T19:21:47.670" LastActivityDate="2022-05-22T19:21:47.670" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19420" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-05-23T06:27:07.903" Score="1" ViewCount="910" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought my Ender 3 Pro 2 weeks ago. Put it together, leveled it, and was off to the races the first day. I printed the test dog and test pig perfectly, so I ventured off to Thingiverse and probably got about 15-20 prints in the last 2 weeks. Everything worked out fine until one morning after a 6-hour print the night before I awoke to a great print and turned my printer off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I came back later in the day and turned it back on I was greeted with the blue screen of death!!!! Of course, I panicked and watched a bunch of YouTube videos which led me to &amp;quot;firmware&amp;quot;. So I formatted my stock SD card to FAT32 and dropped in the Marlin firmware. The blue screen is gone! Ender dragon back! BUT now my printer will &lt;strong&gt;start&lt;/strong&gt; a G-code, but crashes (every time) after about 2 or 3 minutes. BTW, I'm not using Cura or any other cloud slicer. I'm using REALvision and just printing straight from the SD card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Much easier for me until now, what am I doing wrong? What options do I have other than returning the printer and having to wait for a new one?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="34230" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2022-05-23T13:22:20.433" LastActivityDate="2022-05-23T13:22:20.433" Title="Ender 3 Pro keeps stopping after about 2 or 3 layers. SD card maybe?" Tags="|firmware|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19421" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-05-23T10:51:22.740" Score="0" ViewCount="847" Body="&lt;p&gt;Recently I broke the threads inside the heatblock of my CR-6 SE by tightening the nozzle too much (it seemed not deep enough). No problem - bought a new hotend extruder kit for around 35 euros.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I put everything back together and it worked for some time. But then the real problem started - PLA is squeezing out of the heatblock below (probably through the threads of the nozzle) and above (on the metal tube). I'm pretty sure that the PTFE tube was deep enough in the hotend and the nozzle was placed correctly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/akUkE.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/akUkE.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rkYHp.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rkYHp.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's especially bad as it clogs the screws fixing the thermal sensor and heating element in position as well as the ones connecting the heatblock to the heatsink (red) (the 4 screw holes around the nozzle on picture 2).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I managed to remove the screws of the thermal sensor and heating element, but I'm unable to remove the elements themself from the latest heatblock. I'm also unable to remove the metal tube (throat?) screwed into the heatblocks of the old and the current one, as I have nothing to grap to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6SZrS.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6SZrS.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I already have original Creality replacement blocks, but no idea how to continue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Questions&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is there a chance to remove the metal tubes?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Are there other ideas how to resolve the problem without buying a new hotend-kit?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any help is appreciated!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26432" LastActivityDate="2022-06-22T19:05:55.570" Title="Creality CR-6 SE heatblock replacement" Tags="|hotend|replacement-parts|creality-cr-6|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19422" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19421" CreationDate="2022-05-23T11:31:24.220" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It appears that you tightened the nozzle up against the heater block.  You want the nozzle to tighten and form a seal with the heat break.  Otherwise material with seep between the heater block and heat break.  Thus, material comes out the top of the heater block.  You want to tighten the nozzle against the heat break at your highest operating temperature of the hot end.  The following is the full procedure. Once you have plastic material in the threads, you will need to heat up the heater block to remove or install threaded parts in the heater block.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/15521/how-to-replace-the-nozzle-in-my-hotend-assembly&quot;&gt;How to replace the nozzle in my hotend assembly?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15075" LastEditorUserId="15075" LastEditDate="2022-05-23T18:09:08.430" LastActivityDate="2022-05-23T18:09:08.430" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19423" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-05-23T14:57:10.323" Score="0" ViewCount="40" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TyHgC.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TyHgC.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can anyone help explain what might be wrong to do this? I am printing a bunch of the same item.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="34064" LastActivityDate="2022-05-23T14:57:10.323" Title="Print Fail: Partial Mess - What are possible causes?" Tags="|creality-ender-3|pla|troubleshooting|extrusion|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19425" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-05-23T16:38:22.960" Score="2" ViewCount="47" Body="&lt;p&gt;I discovered this by accident while gluing two pieces of 3D printed PLA with UV-curing adhesive.  It's not a problem but I'm curious about why the two materials appearance under UV light is so different.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The PLA came from two different vendors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Em2qh.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Em2qh.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="33030" LastActivityDate="2022-05-23T16:38:22.960" Title="What causes different fluoresence of PLA from different sources?" Tags="|pla|filament|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19426" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-05-24T02:21:27.590" Score="1" ViewCount="620" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm experimenting with larger nozzles and large objects. I thought I had left the default wall count at 3 and that's why the print was turning out much sturdier and much heavier than a smaller nozzle, even though it took 1/3 - 1/2 as long to print it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Well, I have a 1 mm nozzle, &lt;code&gt;wall thickness&lt;/code&gt; set to 2 mm, and &lt;code&gt;wall line count&lt;/code&gt; at 2.  I expected that &lt;code&gt;wall thickness&lt;/code&gt; was to be multiplied by &lt;code&gt;wall line count&lt;/code&gt; to arrive at the final wall width.  However, I don't think that's the case, the two values seem to be interrelated and redundant.  &lt;a href=&quot;https://community.ultimaker.com/topic/25607-cura-360-understanding-wall-thickness/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;This forum post&lt;/a&gt; from a few years ago tries to say as much.  I now think that &lt;code&gt;wall thickness&lt;/code&gt; is extrusion width (&lt;code&gt;line width&lt;/code&gt;?) multiplied by &lt;code&gt;wall line count&lt;/code&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem that I saw that made me dig into this, is that the &lt;code&gt;wall thickness&lt;/code&gt; is set to double the line width, leading me to believe that I'm getting 2 walls of double-width walls, which means 4 mm thick walls.  I don't think it's doing that, but I may have confused myself in the process. Looking at the line view, I think the walls are 2 mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How are these two variables related?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/7425/help-to-reconcile-nozzle-diameter-deposited-line-width-and-wall-thickness-in-c&quot;&gt;This question&lt;/a&gt; is not a duplicate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5576" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2022-05-24T03:56:31.210" LastActivityDate="2022-05-24T07:04:17.440" Title="Wall thickness and line count in Cura, are they redundant, or do they multiply?" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19427" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19426" CreationDate="2022-05-24T07:04:17.440" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I expected that &lt;code&gt;Wall Thickness&lt;/code&gt; was to be multiplied by &lt;code&gt;Wall Line Count&lt;/code&gt; to arrive at the final wall width.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No, the &lt;code&gt;Wall Thickness&lt;/code&gt; is the width of the complete wall, not of a single extrusion line, that is &lt;code&gt;Wall Line Width&lt;/code&gt; which is a sub option of the &lt;code&gt;Line Width&lt;/code&gt; property. Note that &lt;code&gt;Wall Line Width&lt;/code&gt; itself is split up into &lt;code&gt;Outer Wall Line Width&lt;/code&gt; and &lt;code&gt;Inner Wall(s) Line Width&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;code&gt;Wall Thickness&lt;/code&gt; is &amp;quot;&lt;code&gt;Line Width&lt;/code&gt;&amp;quot; multiplied by the &lt;code&gt;Wall Line Count&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note the &lt;code&gt;Wall Thickness&lt;/code&gt; is calculated when you change the &lt;code&gt;Line Width&lt;/code&gt;/&lt;code&gt;Wall Line Width&lt;/code&gt; or greyed out, further more, when you set the wall width to a specified width, the amount of lines are calculated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2022-05-24T07:04:17.440" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19428" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19439" CreationDate="2022-05-24T09:33:41.747" Score="1" ViewCount="1203" Body="&lt;p&gt;Printer: Elegoo Mars 3 LCD Resin Printer&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a similar problem to this question, &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/18583/first-bottom-layers-not-printing&quot;&gt;First / bottom layers not printing?&lt;/a&gt; and this issue on Reddit, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.reddit.com/r/resinprinting/comments/otkln2/elegoo_saturn_squishing_bottom_layers_together/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Elegoo Saturn Squishing Bottom Layers Together - Models Too Short&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am trying to print an object that is a cylinder with an engraving on it (the cylinder is not very high though, - it looks like the cylinder shown in this question on SE.Blender, &lt;a href=&quot;https://blender.stackexchange.com/questions/262301/how-can-i-engrave-this-text-on-the-side-of-this-cylinder-without-changing-the-s&quot;&gt;How can I engrave this Text on the side of this cylinder (without changing the style of the font)?&lt;/a&gt;):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fSi6T.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Similar cylinder&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fSi6T.png&quot; alt=&quot;Similar cylinder&quot; title=&quot;Similar cylinder&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The cylinder is about 3.6 mm high only. It has an engraving on the side of it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I haven't printed with supports but directly on the built plate (similar to the rook model Elegoo gives). The problem is that the first layers are not printed properly (it cuts off the engraving). This results in a reduction in the height of the cylinder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any solutions for how the first layers could come out properly?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="34243" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2022-05-24T23:22:49.440" LastActivityDate="2022-05-25T19:08:53.193" Title="Resin LCD print not printing first layers properly, resulting in a reduction of the height of the object" Tags="|troubleshooting|z-axis|resin|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19429" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-05-24T13:36:41.733" Score="2" ViewCount="491" Body="&lt;p&gt;So around a year ago I built a 3D printer very similar to a Creality CR10 and ever since I've built it, after some layers the nozzle appears to be digging into the print and the extruder starts skipping steps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/27U4E.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Photo of a 3D printed model with printing errors&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/27U4E.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Photo of a 3D printed model with printing errors&quot; title=&quot;Photo of a 3D printed model with printing errors&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It has been driving me up the wall, and I've read and tried pretty much every suggestion I could find. I have disassembled and reassembled the printer multiple times, lubricated all moving parts, especially the Z lead screws, purchased a BLTouch, calibrated all axes and the extruder multiple times, and all to no avail.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm getting great bed adhesion and the dimensions are pretty much bang on. Up till the point where the nozzle starts digging into the print, the print quality is also great.  I've tried slic3r and MatterControl slicers and Pronterface. I've tried adjusting a lot of settings as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have attached some pictures of a recently failed print and my printer and any help would be greatly appreciated!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Material: PLA&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Print temperature: 215 °C&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Bed Temperature: 70 °C&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Hot end: E3D V6&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EIQ7S.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Photo of a custom-built 3D printer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EIQ7S.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Photo of a custom-built 3D printer&quot; title=&quot;Photo of a custom-built 3D printer&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="34247" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2022-05-24T16:28:11.827" LastActivityDate="2022-05-24T16:28:11.827" Title="Nozzle digs into material and extruder starts skipping after some layers" Tags="|extruder|nozzle|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19430" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19429" CreationDate="2022-05-24T16:08:18.657" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This looks completely typical of a printer with a bowden tube using an ungeared Ender 3 style extruder with single flat extruder hob when you try to print at any significant speed. As soon as there's any resistance to pushing the material, the gear's grip on the filament will fail and it will slip instead of moving. Then, it starts grinding a single spot of the filament, ruining any chance that it might successfully continue extrusion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The initial source of the resistance may be heat creep, which you should check for, or something wrong in the filament path through the hotend. It probably starts happening after a bunch of retractions leave you with a rough end backed out of the nozzle and hard to push through it again. Tuning the retraction length and speed &lt;em&gt;may help&lt;/em&gt; with this. However, if the problem is what I think it is, the core issue is that the extruder is awful; a good extruder would grip the filament well enough to force it through even if there is some resistance, and the resistance would go away as soon as it starts melting and flowing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Definitely replace the extruder. Even if you have other problems too, that extruder will be a continuous source of problems. In the mean time, you might try adjusting the spring tension to see if you can get it to work better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2022-05-24T16:08:18.657" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19433" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-05-25T04:48:44.667" Score="0" ViewCount="242" Body="&lt;p&gt;I own an Ender 3 max and after I did a fan upgrade to the main board (In the progress I need to let the printer sit on the y axis motor and might bend something), there're wavy patterns on the wall parrallel to the y axis (the axis the bed travels).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't think the pattern is due to ringing since it is only appears on one axis and the magnitude stays the same.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I put my hand on the print bed (moves with y axis) I can feel it shakes while moving.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can't tell anything is damaged from visual inspection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has anyone encountered this situation before? How can I fix it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wavy y axis wall:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9PXct.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Wavy y axis wall&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9PXct.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Wavy y axis wall&quot; title=&quot;Wavy y axis wall&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good x axis wall:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lpS2G.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Good x axis wall&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lpS2G.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Good x axis wall&quot; title=&quot;Good x axis wall&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="34260" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2022-05-25T05:37:48.200" LastActivityDate="2022-05-25T05:37:48.200" Title="Wavy walls on one axis (not ringing)" Tags="|y-axis|axis|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19434" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-05-25T13:52:39.873" Score="1" ViewCount="109" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are there SLA printable resins that can be printed with optical clarity and whose index of refraction make them potentially useful for optical applications? I would assume the surface may need polishing, and that's okay - I'm just asking whether the materials and process are otherwise suitable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2022-05-26T19:36:09.380" Title="Is there printable optical-grade resin?" Tags="|print-material|resin|sla|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19435" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-05-25T14:09:08.083" Score="0" ViewCount="3009" Body="&lt;p&gt;My printer (Ender 3 S1 Pro) only has a touch screen. When I use the pause at height command, the print pauses properly. However, the screen only displays stop and pause &amp;quot;buttons&amp;quot;. Neither of these options allows me to restart the print. Can anyone suggest a solution to this problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="34265" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2022-05-25T14:40:03.257" LastActivityDate="2024-01-05T20:34:09.560" Title="I have a Ender 3 S1 Pro and can't restart a print after a pause at height" Tags="|creality-ender-3|marlin|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19437" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19434" CreationDate="2022-05-25T18:54:36.157" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, at least not at a consumer level. The layering created by the printing process would create imperfections, and clear resin frequently yellows if not cured properly and then protected form strong UV light. Resins that do not yellow tend to have a blue cast to them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You would be better off using a commercial grade casting resin and a pressure chamber to remove bubbles. Even then it would be inferior to silicates for even basic lenses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="29097" LastActivityDate="2022-05-25T18:54:36.157" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19438" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12097" CreationDate="2022-05-25T18:59:30.457" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I frequently leave models made on a Saturn printer with Elegoo gray resin on a surface in the sun to slow cure them. If properly cleaned their finish is indistinguishable from models rapid cured in a UV chamber.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It should be noted that I only do this with small models that are Table top miniature scale. Large models with lots of shadows, overhands or complicated detailing may not cure evenly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I usually do this if I have a lot of models to cure and am too lazy to keep cycling them through my cure station.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="29097" LastActivityDate="2022-05-25T18:59:30.457" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19439" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19428" CreationDate="2022-05-25T19:08:53.193" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a known issue with printing directly on the build plate. The first few layers have to be cured for much longer than the rest of the layers in order to ensure that the model adheres properly to the build plate. This causes the layers to be thinner but wider. Often resulting in a slight brim around your model (Called an Elephant's foot in some circles).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Normally you would use a skate or raft and supports, so the distortion wouldn't be to the model itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could reduce the number of bottom layers in your slicer, and reduce the exposure time, which will give you much closer to your expected height, but it may require a lot of trial and error printing to find the right settings for your printer. I think that some people have made calculators to help with this, or you could try to find a torture calibration model to help you find your optimum settings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally, as a person who make models for printing, I would recommend that you changed the dimensions of your model, rather than changing your printer settings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I often make the parts of my models that are in contact with the base slightly thicker, but with a slight bevel to the edge to allow for expansion (Elephant foot) , then I simply sand down the extra after printing till the model is of the desired size.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Again, this is mostly a matter of trial and error.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="29097" LastActivityDate="2022-05-25T19:08:53.193" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19440" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-05-25T22:54:57.157" Score="0" ViewCount="161" Body="&lt;p&gt;Printer: Elegoo Mars 3 LCD Resin printer&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The letter height is about 3 mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I engraved a word (text) on the side of a cylinder (which is about 14 mm in diameter and 4 mm in height).  I am not sure about the exact depth of the engraving (but should be about 0.5 mm but that's not important).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The text is easily readable and, at first glance, appears to have come out perfectly.&#xA;On second sight, however, the problem becomes obvious: The 3D printer didn't print the style of the font correctly (it's less &lt;strong&gt;bold&lt;/strong&gt; than the font style chosen for the text and that's visible in Blender and Chitubox files).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is that just what I have to accept or is there any way to improve on the result?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="34243" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2022-05-26T03:15:05.013" LastActivityDate="2022-05-26T20:42:12.133" Title="Engraved text (on a cylinder). The printer wasnt able to display the font style correctly," Tags="|print-quality|elegoo-mars|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19444" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19440" CreationDate="2022-05-26T09:43:45.397" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could try making the text in the 3D model more bold than you want it, then if the printer prints it less bold, it will come out with the desired boldness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastActivityDate="2022-05-26T09:43:45.397" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19446" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19434" CreationDate="2022-05-26T19:36:09.380" Score="0" Body="&lt;h1&gt;Clear Resin isn't clear everywhere&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any light-curing resin has a specific bandwidth to which it is totally opaque just to be able to cure. This is typically a blue color, but at this and adjacent wavelength, the lens will not allow light to pass through it, no matter if you can manage to get imperfections down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Resins change color&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then there is the problem of resins changing coloration. Most cast resins become yellow, and some go blue, but in either case, they do absorb some spectrum to appear as this color.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastActivityDate="2022-05-26T19:36:09.380" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19447" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19440" CreationDate="2022-05-26T20:42:12.133" Score="1" Body="&lt;h1&gt;Printers know not of Fonts&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All the 3D printer knows are movement commands. The slicer is turning the model into movement commands. The design suit defines the model.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So if your slicer is not printing the model as you envision it, the problem is not with the printer, it is with the model. You should alter the surfaces in the model.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastActivityDate="2022-05-26T20:42:12.133" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19449" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7610" CreationDate="2022-05-27T20:38:02.080" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had this problem of &amp;quot;Thermal Runaway E1&amp;quot; always at the same layer each time, when printing TPU. TPU prints at a higher temperature than usual PLA printing. I was printing it at 245 °C. (I also tried 230 and 250 °C). It turned out to be the part-cooling fan was coming on at 91 % on that layer. Which was cooling the nozzle more than the PID tuning was used to. (I had changed the nozzle for a different type and the cooling duct was blowing directly on it.) Reducing the fan speed during the slicing step printed the project just fine. A better fix in this case will be printing a new cooling duct and installing a silicone sock to help retain that nozzle heat (and yet another PID tune once that's done).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31400" LastEditorUserId="31400" LastEditDate="2022-07-10T06:27:07.507" LastActivityDate="2022-07-10T06:27:07.507" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19450" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19566" CreationDate="2022-05-27T23:36:42.800" Score="3" ViewCount="4041" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an Ender 3 Pro with the BTT SKR E3 V2.0 mini with Marlin firmware 2.0.8.2.x.&#xA;I am trying to print PETG, which requires decently high temperatures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I initially replaced the stock board after a thermal runaway event that seemed to have damaged it. After installing the new board and getting all the settings dialed in (typically 260 °C hotend and 90 °C bed), it worked great for about 2 weeks until I got the thermal runaway event error again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is what I have tried so far&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;replaced the thermistor with &lt;a href=&quot;https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B08YNX79H8?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&amp;amp;th=1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;replaced the heating cartridge with &lt;a href=&quot;https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B01HGIMI2G?psc=1&amp;amp;ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;replaced the hotend with &lt;a href=&quot;https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B09Y8VY5J8?psc=1&amp;amp;ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; an all-metal one&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;measured voltage coming from the power supply and coming out of the board going to heater cartridge (both ~24 V)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I PID tuned the printer using &lt;code&gt;M303 E0 S260 C10&lt;/code&gt; and stored new PID values in EEPROM + firmware. A note, running this multiple times seemed to constantly increase the P and D values. I stuck with the initial values given (&lt;code&gt;kP 13.97 kI 0.84 kD 57.96&lt;/code&gt;). I still continued to get thermal runaway events.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I then tested the heater cartridge and thermistor with my multimeter. The heater was 13.5 ohms which seems about right. I was unable to measure the thermistor value. Searching online shows I likely need a better multimeter to do so. It's possible it is bad, but I find that hard to believe considering this issue was happening prior to my replacing it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://pastebin.com/Ykhqfpdc&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Example log&lt;/a&gt; of the failure happening. All I did was heat the printer up, leave it on for a bit, set it to cool down briefly, then tell it to heat up again. The printer was heated for ~5-8 minutes before this log starts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could this be the board again, or is there something else I'm missing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="34115" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2022-05-28T00:32:04.640" LastActivityDate="2022-06-18T05:10:54.677" Title="Thermal Runaway issues on Ender 3 Pro even after replacing thermistor and heater cartridge" Tags="|creality-ender-3|marlin|troubleshooting|thermal-runaway|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19451" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19452" CreationDate="2022-05-28T04:32:10.337" Score="8" ViewCount="8337" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm new to 3D printing and I was wondering about the risks of leaving my printer to print overnight? I'm aware that if something goes wrong I'll wake up to spaghetti for breakfast but what are the other things like having the nozzle and bed heated that long? And, when it's done it just sits there on so what could that do to the screen? What if the printer runs into some physical problem and damages itself and/or the print? I'm not looking for answers to these questions specifically just feedback on what I should do when printing overnight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="33318" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2022-05-28T05:34:09.020" LastActivityDate="2022-05-29T02:20:21.447" Title="What are the risks of leaving to print overnight?" Tags="|safety|life-expectancy|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19452" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19451" CreationDate="2022-05-28T08:06:17.060" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Presuming that you're talking about an 8 hour period, your printer should be designed to run for 8 hours continuous anyway, so nothing will happen regarding the bed or screen that wouldn't happen with a normal print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the first few layers stick to the bed, it's likely that you're print will at least be partially completed. So even over night it won't be a full 8 hours of printing while failed. Maybe half that period.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the problem is bed adhesion, or anything that doesn't effect the filament being supplied to the nozzle, then your only problem will be wasted filament and disposing of the spaghetti. No harm will come to your printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the problem is a break in the filament or filament runout, or a blocked nozzle then you could have damage to the head of the nozzle from printing dry. If you're printing with PLA this isn't really something that you need to worry about too much as you can run a printer dry for several hours without any problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're printing with ABS or something that needs a hotter head then you could cause damage to it if it's allowed to run dry for an entire night. But again this isn't really something that you need to worry about unless it's running dry for 4 or 6 hours.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Simply checking in on it once in the night should be enough to prevent any problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="29097" LastEditorUserId="34296" LastEditDate="2022-05-29T02:20:21.447" LastActivityDate="2022-05-29T02:20:21.447" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19453" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19451" CreationDate="2022-05-28T10:48:29.860" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've done 4 day prints with no issues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I just have my printer in a place where there is nothing that can catch fire in the unlikely event that it decides to start burning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the rest it's just like any other electrical appliance. Common sense like not having it where things can obstruct moving parts etc,.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31811" LastActivityDate="2022-05-28T10:48:29.860" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19454" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19451" CreationDate="2022-05-28T11:14:26.900" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are software solutions like &amp;quot;Spaghetti Detective&amp;quot; (recently renamed to &amp;quot;Obico&amp;quot;)  which can watch your print via a camera, and potentially stop the job if it looks bad.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most of the time my print failures come early, in the form of poor bed adhesion - watch the job start for a while before leaving it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can also remote-check my cameras and stop the job if required, but that requires me to look.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The second most common failure is lifting from the base at any time in the print, so you have to keep an eye on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Filament feed issues are probably third on the common list of causes for problems, including running out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also have occasional issues where my Pi running Octoprint just looses connection to the printer, and it freezes in place with the bed/nozzle heaters on.  This is just a waste of power, so a future plan is to wire the printer through a relay allowing me to power it on/off from octoprint's web page.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My longest print was ~30 hours - you have to learn to not touch it unless there's a good reason.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, try and maintain the environmental conditions to be fairly constant.  I have an enclosure even when printing plain PLA, becuase my printer's location is in a garage, and opening the main door allows the air temp to drop quickly.  This would upset a running print until I surrounded it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also make sure there's a smoke or heat detector in the room where the printer is, for added peace of mind.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12956" LastActivityDate="2022-05-28T11:14:26.900" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19455" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19450" CreationDate="2022-05-28T11:44:14.197" Score="0" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Recv:  T:224.24 /&lt;strong&gt;260.00&lt;/strong&gt; B:88.95 /&lt;strong&gt;90.00&lt;/strong&gt; @:127 B@:127&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;You are trying to achieve too much!&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The maximum rated temperature for an Ender3 is 260 °C, yes, but to achieve this you need to insulate the heater block with a silicon sock from losing heat to the surroundings and with some tinfoil from an airstream over it from the cooling fan. And even then, you are trying to work at the absolute maximum the printer can theoretically reach - which means it is above the temperature you can operate it while printing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Likewise, you try to have the bed at 90 °C and that is too high to consistently reach with the heater installed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To print at those elevated temperatures you need different gear:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You absolutely need a heated chamber.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You need a specialized hotend that does not suffer heatcreep and is rated to &lt;strong&gt;at least&lt;/strong&gt; 275 °C&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The rest of the printer needs to be able to work at those elevated temperatures.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastActivityDate="2022-05-28T11:44:14.197" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19456" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19451" CreationDate="2022-05-28T14:18:51.117" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Assuming the printer is operating correctly, there are no lifetime/wear concerns from running it that long. Many-hours and even -days prints are normal usage, and print-farms run as businesses run these things basically 24/7 for months on end, modulo routine maintenance. Having the heaters on for 8 hours is really no big deal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, that's &lt;em&gt;assuming the printer is operating correctly&lt;/em&gt;. If not, there are various things that can go wrong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The worst possible is &lt;strong&gt;thermal runaway&lt;/strong&gt;: the printer losing track of the bed or hotend temperature and running the heating element always-on until it melts the metal. This is a severe fire hazard. Printers with properly built firmware have thermal runaway protection to perform an emergency-stop and turn off heaters if they can't detect a reasonable temperature measurement response to operating the heater, but some popular machines have this feature intentionally turned off by the manufacturer. If you will be operating your printer unattended, absolutely make sure you test that thermal runaway protection is present and working (there should be good ways to simulate it and see that the safety is triggered).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even with thermal runaway protection working, there is a very slight chance the power mosfet controlling a heater fails in a way that leaves it always-on, which the firmware cannot protect you against. For this reason you also want to have the printer away from flammable materials and may even want an active fire suppression system (there are &amp;quot;balls&amp;quot; you can hang above your printer that activate and release fire suppressant if it's on fire). This is a very low probability event - I've never heard of it happening - but I'm including it for completeness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, the less severe stuff. As long as the first few layers go down well, it's unlikely your print will detach from the bed mid-print, but it can end up having (usually small) parts that warp upward and collide with the nozzle. This can cause lots of different types of problems:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Dislodging the print from the bed&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Producing skipped stepper motor steps, which later can cause the print hed to collide against either end of its motion range due its logical position mismatching its new physical position.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Breaking parts of the toolhead, like fan ducts, fans, bed probes, silicone socks, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Causing extruded material to be forced upward into the area around the hotend (e.g. between the sock and the heater block), producing a giant blob of plastic intertwined with toolhead parts and difficult or impossible to remove without damaging stuff.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most of these things do not impose any major safety risk like fire, but they can do varying degrees of damage to the printer, requiring repair or at least maintenance. For example endstop collisions themselves usually don't damage anything but they might knock your frame out of square/alignment, requiring tinkering before the next print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2022-05-28T14:18:51.117" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19458" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-05-28T16:38:09.027" Score="0" ViewCount="142" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm having a lot of issues leveling my printer and one failed print came out like this. Is there something wrong with the surface that I need a new bed? This happens to me quite often and I literally can't get it off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vOVeZ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Magnetic bed with filament still stuck to bed&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vOVeZ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Magnetic bed with filament still stuck to bed&quot; title=&quot;Magnetic bed with filament still stuck to bed&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="33318" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2022-05-28T23:48:14.587" LastActivityDate="2022-05-28T23:48:14.587" Title="What do I do when my magnetic bed looks like this after a failed print" Tags="|bed-leveling|print-failure|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19459" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19458" CreationDate="2022-05-28T20:51:36.567" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Print the print once more. the first few layers will adhere to the excess material and you can then peel it all off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="34295" LastActivityDate="2022-05-28T20:51:36.567" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19460" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19458" CreationDate="2022-05-28T21:56:15.383" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If it's flat so you cannot scrape it off you can just print over it. No need for a new bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check your levelling first because if it's sinking into the bed then the nozzle is far too low and you can end up with a scenario where it rips the bed material when you remove a print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31811" LastActivityDate="2022-05-28T21:56:15.383" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19461" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19467" CreationDate="2022-05-29T16:43:41.977" Score="0" ViewCount="381" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am a beginner and looking for software to easily pose a 3D character, which I currently have in an FBX file, and export the pose to an OBJ file.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, I could move the character's arm upward, then export that as an OBJ and print it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Every software I know of either can not pose FBX characters (such as Fusion360) or can not export poses (such as Blender). How can I do this easily?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="34302" LastActivityDate="2022-05-30T17:49:05.603" Title="Software to Pose and Export FBX Character" Tags="|3d-models|3d-design|software|cad|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19463" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-05-30T00:53:31.187" Score="1" ViewCount="4025" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just got into the world of 3D printing and I'm extremely new to it and everything related and I'm not 100 % sure what I am actually doing (like all the code stuff too). I did one successful print on my Ender 3 (Benchy) before installing a CR Touch and unfortunately haven't been able to print since then due to many problems (about 2 weeks ago).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A bulk of the problems were caused by bad Creality firmware (SD card not recognized, no settings saving, mobo freezing during print). I downloaded TH3D's Unified 2 firmware and compiled it for my board/CPU (4.2.2 board, GD32F303 RET6) which appears to have helped. I also changed &lt;code&gt;default_envs =&lt;/code&gt; line in the &lt;code&gt;platform.ini&lt;/code&gt; file to &lt;code&gt;GD32F303 RET6_creality_maple&lt;/code&gt; but I wasn't sure what to do after that so I just hit build? (in VScode). I built the &lt;code&gt;platform.ini&lt;/code&gt; file before I built the &lt;code&gt;configuration.h&lt;/code&gt; file, not sure if relevant either.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem now is that whenever I try to print something, the nozzle slams down into the bed and cuts deep grooves all over it. It does this when doing the filament purge line off to the side and when trying to print the actual object. I believe I have leveled the bed correctly, I bought yellow bed springs, and I manually leveled before I set up the CR Touch (by manually leveled, I had to actually move the nozzle to the 4 corners through the &lt;strong&gt;Move Axis&lt;/strong&gt; option in the menu as I tried running CHEP's bed leveling G-code (the &lt;code&gt;M25&lt;/code&gt; version for 32bit board) but my printer would just say &amp;quot;Printer Paused: Parking&amp;quot; and then freeze)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried adding the X/Y probe offset in the Marlin firmware but even though I managed to flash the edited firmware, the offsets wouldn't stick (I uncommented the right options I believe for it as well). I managed to push the X/Y probe offsets through with Pronterface. I put them as X -45 and Y -5 for mine which I measured manually but am not sure if it's correct). I set the Z offset as -4.1 (baby-stepped until I could barely move a piece of paper) and I stored settings, so whenever I turn off and on the printer, I check the setting and it's still saved to -4.1. After I set up the Z-offset, I go to &lt;strong&gt;Motion&lt;/strong&gt; &amp;gt; &lt;strong&gt;Level Bed&lt;/strong&gt; and the printer does its 9-point probe, but I don't see an option to store settings after the bed level as I do in other people's menu. If it helps as well, I have also tried scaling back the Z-offset (so from -4.1 to -3.5 to -3 to -2.5) but it continues to kamikaze into the bed).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I put a &lt;code&gt;G29&lt;/code&gt; code after my &lt;code&gt;G28&lt;/code&gt; code in Cura, so the printer does a 9-point probe before each print and then proceeds to slam into the bed. I'll post my &lt;code&gt;M503&lt;/code&gt; result and slicer G-code below for anyone interested.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sorry for the long post, but I hope I included enough information, I just want to be able to print :(&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;M503 results&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;&amp;gt; M503&#xA;SENDING:M503&#xA;- echo:; Linear Units:&#xA;- echo:  G21 ; (mm)&#xA;- echo:; Temperature Units:&#xA;- echo:  M149 C ; Units in Celsius&#xA;- echo:; Steps per unit:&#xA;- echo:  M92 X80.00 Y80.00 Z400.00 E95.00&#xA;- echo:; Max feedrates (units/s):&#xA;- echo:  M203 X400.00 Y400.00 Z15.00 E200.00&#xA;- echo:; Max Acceleration (units/s2):&#xA;- echo:  M201 X2500.00 Y2500.00 Z500.00 E5000.00&#xA;- echo:; Acceleration (units/s2) (P&amp;lt;print-accel&amp;gt; R&amp;lt;retract-accel&amp;gt; T&amp;lt;travel-accel&amp;gt;):&#xA;- echo:  M204 P1500.00 R500.00 T1500.00&#xA;- echo:; Advanced (B&amp;lt;min_segment_time_us&amp;gt; S&amp;lt;min_feedrate&amp;gt; T&amp;lt;min_travel_feedrate&amp;gt; X&amp;lt;max_x_jerk&amp;gt; Y&amp;lt;max_y_jerk&amp;gt; Z&amp;lt;max_z_jerk&amp;gt; E&amp;lt;max_e_jerk&amp;gt;):&#xA;- echo:  M205 B20000.00 S0.00 T0.00 X8.00 Y8.00 Z0.30 E5.00&#xA;- **echo:; Auto Bed Leveling:&#xA;- echo:  M420 S0 Z0.00 ; Leveling OFF**&#xA;- echo:  G29 W I0 J0 Z-7.40950&#xA;- echo:  G29 W I1 J0 Z-7.29150&#xA;- echo:  G29 W I2 J0 Z-7.17500&#xA;- echo:  G29 W I0 J1 Z-7.15250&#xA;- echo:  G29 W I1 J1 Z-7.10900&#xA;- echo:  G29 W I2 J1 Z-7.06200&#xA;- echo:  G29 W I0 J2 Z-7.09100&#xA;- echo:  G29 W I1 J2 Z-6.95900&#xA;- echo:  G29 W I2 J2 Z-7.09000&#xA;- echo:; Material heatup parameters:&#xA;- echo:  M145 S0 H200.00 B60.00 F0&#xA;- echo:  M145 S1 H240.00 B100.00 F0&#xA;- echo:; Hotend PID:&#xA;- echo:  M301 P28.72 I2.62 D78.81&#xA;- echo:; Z-Probe Offset:&#xA;- echo:  M851 X-45.00 Y-5.00 Z-4.10 ; (mm)&#xA;- echo:; Filament load/unload:&#xA;- echo:  M603 L100.00 U100.00 ; (mm)&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(I highlighted the line that seems off)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Cura G-code&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;&amp;gt; ; - Ender 3 Custom Start G-code&#xA;- G92 E0 ; Reset Extruder&#xA;- G28 ; Home all axes&#xA;- G29 ; ABL&#xA;- G1 Z2.0 F3000 ; Move Z Axis up little to prevent scratching of Heat Bed&#xA;- G1 X0.1 Y20 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move to start position&#xA;- G1 X0.1 Y200.0 Z0.3 F1500.0 E15 ; Draw the first line&#xA;- G1 X0.4 Y200.0 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move to side a little&#xA;- G1 X0.4 Y20 Z0.3 F1500.0 E30 ; Draw the second line&#xA;- G92 E0 ; Reset Extruder&#xA;- G1 Z2.0 F3000 ; Move Z Axis up little to prevent scratching of Heat Bed&#xA;- G1 X5 Y20 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move over to prevent blob squish&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="34308" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2022-05-30T02:02:42.450" LastActivityDate="2022-05-30T17:04:51.980" Title="Nozzle scraping bed on Ender 3 with CR Touch" Tags="|creality-ender-3|troubleshooting|bltouch|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19464" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19413" CreationDate="2022-05-30T15:26:11.313" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Flyback diodes aren't there to improve quality. They are there to )protect components the stepper connects to when the stepper stops. Motors store energy in inductors, and when power is dropped that energy goes back into the source driving them, which can damage equipment. Modern stepper drivers typically already account for that and are designed either with such diodes already included, or use a design that doesn't require them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If anything, it might HURT performance with some drivers, as described in the article &lt;a href=&quot;http://blog.trinamic.com/2018/08/16/tl-smoothers-do-they-make-sense/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;TL-Smoothers, Do They Make Sense?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7038" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2022-05-30T16:33:33.640" LastActivityDate="2022-05-30T16:33:33.640" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19465" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19463" CreationDate="2022-05-30T17:04:51.980" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I suggest you revert to the state where it was working as your first troubleshooting strategy and then use that as a state of reference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then make your changes one by one rather than try and fix a modification that doesn't work with another modification you're unsure of.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's better to learn things systematically from a set point than to mix and match randomly. The danger is that you can eventually make your point of reference unachievable which is only fine if you have an alternative working solution. And you're not really learning anything that way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31811" LastActivityDate="2022-05-30T17:04:51.980" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19466" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19435" CreationDate="2022-05-30T17:24:19.023" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found that if I use Cura to generate the pause at height script then edit the G-code file and change the &lt;code&gt;M0&lt;/code&gt; code to an &lt;code&gt;M25&lt;/code&gt;. Next, you must use that edited file to print from an SD card. When the printer pauses and you are ready to continue the print (while connected to a computer with a USB cable and with Cura open), select the &lt;strong&gt;Monitor&lt;/strong&gt; tab in Cura, type &lt;code&gt;M24&lt;/code&gt; in the &lt;strong&gt;Send&lt;/strong&gt; G-code window, and press the return key on your computer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="34265" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2022-05-30T20:54:08.467" LastActivityDate="2022-05-30T20:54:08.467" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19467" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19461" CreationDate="2022-05-30T17:49:05.603" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you pose it in Blender you can export it and print it with the pose. It's very simple, you just export as a STL file and then print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31811" LastActivityDate="2022-05-30T17:49:05.603" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19468" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19469" CreationDate="2022-05-30T21:00:18.440" Score="2" ViewCount="952" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've tried printing in vase mode (or &amp;quot;spiralise outer contour&amp;quot; in Cura) and while the floor looks fine, the vertical sides look &amp;quot;saggy&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm using a 0.4 mm nozzle, with eSUN PLA+ at 218 °C and a bed temp of 60 °C.  This combination works fine for normal printing.   Layer height is 0.28 mm (Low Quality mode in Cura) with a line width of 0.4 mm&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KVFyS.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KVFyS.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt; &lt;br&gt; Image is backlit by a monitor to show the laciness in the walls.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8EnEB.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8EnEB.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt; &lt;br&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The original model was a 1x1x6 Gridfinity bin that uses less plastic than the original. &lt;br&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://thangs.com/designer/LittleHobbyShop/3d-model/%23gridfinity%20Vase%20Mode%20Single%20Box-65828&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://thangs.com/designer/LittleHobbyShop/3d-model/%23gridfinity%20Vase%20Mode%20Single%20Box-65828&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this insufficient cooling, or too fast a print speed letting the filament sag under gravity before it cools?  Or is a 0.4 mm nozzle too small?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This reminds me of brickwork where the mortar is too wet.  The bits that work right look fine, but all four sides have bad parts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What's the trick to vase mode printing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12956" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2022-05-30T22:05:37.990" LastActivityDate="2022-05-31T02:28:58.447" Title="Saggy vase walls. What are the tricks to successful vase mode printing?" Tags="|print-quality|vase-mode|gridfinity|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19469" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19468" CreationDate="2022-05-30T21:17:37.340" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You likely hav a mix of insufficient cooling and excessive layer height for the overhang angles in that model.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cooling: The amount of heat you have to displace per unit of time is proportional to the amount of material you extrude per unit of time, which is the product of layer height, line width, and print speed. Going slower is one way to fix this, but not necessarily the best.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Overhangs: The model seems to have walls that tilt outward at 45°. This means, if the layer height were half the line with, only half of the extrusion line in the new layer would be over top of material from the layer below; the rest would be overhanging. But you're using 0.28 layer height. This means only 0.12 mm of the new line, less than 1/3 its width, even touches the line below. This is going to give you at best a very weak print, and likely troubles like what you're seeing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would go with thinner layers, and the same or wider line width, possibly at lower speed. Wider line width (note that you &lt;em&gt;don't&lt;/em&gt; need a wider nozzle to do wider line widths) will improve the amount of overlap between layers, but it does increase the amount of material you need to cool. My preferred options for that print would be around 0.16-0.20 mm layer height, 0.5-0.6 mm line width, and whatever speed your cooling can handle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2022-05-30T21:17:37.340" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19471" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19468" CreationDate="2022-05-31T02:28:58.447" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The trick was to change a lot of settings and save as a separate set.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What works for &amp;quot;normal&amp;quot; prints does not work well for vase-mode work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0NsCx.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0NsCx.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had to:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Decrease layer height from 0.28 mm to 0.20 mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Increase line width from 0.2 mm to 0.6 mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Drop speed from 125 mm/s to 80 mm/s (though this could be tweaked upward I suspect)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Vase mode also cannot deal well with printing multiple parts at the same time, and if you use &amp;quot;one-at-a-time&amp;quot; mode in your slicer then the max height caps out at 25 mm for me, which is not a lot of use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12956" LastActivityDate="2022-05-31T02:28:58.447" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19472" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2022-05-31T02:41:36.277" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Gridfinity is a standard racking/storage solution designed by Zack Freedman of Voidstar Labs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Gridfinity is based around a 42x42 mm square base, which can be combined into larger groups or subdvided with partitions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sizings are denoted in width x depth x height in blocks of 42mm/42mm/7mm so a 1x1x3 is one square that is 21mm high, and is suitable for small parts.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;A 1x3x12&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The height is intended to be a multiple of 7mm to enable adjacent units to stack and lock together.  A pair of x3 is the same height as a x6&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/ra_9zU-mnl8?start=0&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3v1V0.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3v1V0.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt; Drawer showing grid in the bottom, and a series of 1x1x6 bins&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/s9Vdc.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/s9Vdc.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt; Tech drawing of the default 1x1x6 bin.  Quite stout.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xuX53.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xuX53.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt; Thin, low-plastic usage example bin in 1x1x6.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Criticisms&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's no secure lids.  If you drop a tray of small parts in many bins, you're going to have a bad day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Excessive plastic usage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Positives&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Colour coding is possible, print different colours for each size (M2 is blue, M3 is orange, etc) or for each purpose (all washers are green, all bolts are in red bins, etc)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rearranging is simple, as is inserting a new size you didn't have before.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Community is large:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://discord.com/channels/771523295387582514/966418807872716880&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://discord.com/channels/771523295387582514/966418807872716880&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://thangs.com/search/gridfinity/?scope=all&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://thangs.com/search/gridfinity/?scope=all&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12956" LastEditorUserId="12956" LastEditDate="2022-05-31T07:23:27.933" LastActivityDate="2022-05-31T07:23:27.933" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19473" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2022-05-31T02:41:36.277" Score="0" Body="Gridfinity is a standard racking/storage solution standard designed by Zack Freedman of Voidstar Labs.&#xD;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12956" LastEditorUserId="12956" LastEditDate="2022-05-31T07:23:16.030" LastActivityDate="2022-05-31T07:23:16.030" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19474" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15679" CreationDate="2022-05-31T04:39:14.237" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I did a simple search at &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.huski.ai&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;www.huski.ai&lt;/a&gt;, and found 11 trademarks with the mark word &amp;quot;FabLab&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PXPXU.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Screenshot of search&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PXPXU.png&quot; alt=&quot;Screenshot of search&quot; title=&quot;Screenshot of search&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you can see, most of them are abandoned, but there are 3 alive ones by a company called JO-ANN STORES, INC. Their categories are something like &amp;quot;paper goods&amp;quot;, &amp;quot;fabrics&amp;quot;, or &amp;quot;furnitures&amp;quot;, etc. So I think there's still room for you to register it under electronics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="34322" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2022-05-31T07:25:42.803" LastActivityDate="2022-05-31T07:25:42.803" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19475" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15679" CreationDate="2022-05-31T08:08:02.877" Score="1" Body="&lt;h1&gt;It depends on where&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Trademarks are national.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the United States of America, the USPTO is administering trademark registrations, but they are not mandatory to get basic trademark protection. The search is available at &lt;a href=&quot;https://tmsearch.uspto.gov/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://tmsearch.uspto.gov/&lt;/a&gt;. FabLab is registered in the US with two Marks that are alive in 2022:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://uspto.report/TM/85185255&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;FABLAB&lt;/a&gt; is registered for a motion picture production company and STEM project since 2016.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://uspto.report/TM/79264365&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Hybrid FabLab&lt;/a&gt; is apparently offering Rapid Prototyping, prototyping advice and renting out a fabrication space.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In Germany the DPMA is administring. Unless you register your mark in Germany, you might not have trademark protection in Germany, even if you have the mark or some protection in a different country - unless there is a mutual agreement to update registers between countries. This is how some marks get an EM entry or an IR entry: European mark or international mark. Their search is available at &lt;a href=&quot;https://register.dpma.de/DPMAregister/marke/basis&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://register.dpma.de/&lt;/a&gt; and yields these live results as of 2022:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;EM: &lt;a href=&quot;https://register.dpma.de/DPMAregister/marke/registerHABM?AKZ=011804846&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;FabLab&lt;/a&gt; is a registered mark from Spain which is not famous and only protects the whole picture-and-text mark.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;EM: &lt;a href=&quot;https://register.dpma.de/DPMAregister/marke/registerHABM?AKZ=018284863&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;We Found! Fablab ###&lt;/a&gt; is one of two marks that are owned by the same company, it is very narrow and fablab here is not the actual protected part, it is descriptive of the origin.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;EM: &lt;a href=&quot;https://register.dpma.de/DPMAregister/marke/registerHABM?AKZ=018559769&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;FabLab&lt;/a&gt; is an English-French word-mark on nutrition products&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;IR: &lt;a href=&quot;https://register.dpma.de/DPMAregister/marke/registerIR?AKZ=1480492&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Hybrid FabLab&lt;/a&gt; mirrors the USPTO entry above&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;DE: &lt;a href=&quot;https://register.dpma.de/DPMAregister/marke/register/3020192277493/DE&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;FabLab&lt;/a&gt; is for an image mark for only category Nizza 42.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;DE: &lt;a href=&quot;https://register.dpma.de/DPMAregister/marke/register/3020212157382/DE&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;FabLab München&lt;/a&gt; is again an image mark, with a broader list of services than the FabLab mark right above (Nizza 40, 41, 42). overlapping with the mark right before only insofar that they both are for category Nizza 42. However, they are both image marks and look nothing alike, so no confusion is likely.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;in general: it might not be registrable (on its own)&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do however note that in most countries a mark is only registerable if it is not descriptive. FabLab, short for fabrication lab, might actually be a little &lt;em&gt;too&lt;/em&gt; close to being merely descriptive to be registrable on its own for fabrication services. However, as an image mark a lot more can be registered.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastActivityDate="2022-05-31T08:08:02.877" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19476" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19480" CreationDate="2022-05-31T13:42:53.543" Score="2" ViewCount="1099" Body="&lt;p&gt;My Ender 3 was printing great. However, I'm now getting all sorts of globbing up on the Extruder nozzle. This is causing the prints to fail, and if I come back after a print I'm often getting 1/3 of the print printed with gaps, etc before it totally fails. Any idea what is going on? Its the same roll of PLA that was printing fine at this temperature, etc; but we are getting down to the last 15% of the roll if that matters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/t0mtN.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/t0mtN.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;PLA Globbing Up on the Extruder&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;------------------- EDIT With More Information ---------------&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Switched out the PLA and my printer is printing great again! Per the suggestion from someone, I'm currently baking the old PLA and will report back on the results!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="34064" LastEditorUserId="34064" LastEditDate="2022-06-02T16:07:27.757" LastActivityDate="2022-06-02T16:07:27.757" Title="PLA Globbing up on the Extruder Nozzle" Tags="|creality-ender-3|troubleshooting|pla|extruder|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19477" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19484" CreationDate="2022-05-31T14:01:28.520" Score="2" ViewCount="229" Body="&lt;p&gt;Now that V6 nozzles are getting more advanced, as in Nickel coated brass/copper nozzles (e.g. Bondtech CHT® nozzles) the availability for Volcano hot ends seem to lag behind...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A Volcano heat break adapter/nozzle extender has been spotted on the online market places to be used together with the shorter E3D V6 nozzles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/V9IoM.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Volcano adapter&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/V9IoM.png&quot; alt=&quot;Volcano adapter&quot; title=&quot;Volcano adapter&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There seems to be confusion about the mounting of the adapter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Either from the top of the heater block:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OCOsZ.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Volcano adapter top mounting&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OCOsZ.png&quot; alt=&quot;Volcano adapter top mounting&quot; title=&quot;Volcano adapter top mounting&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;or, from the bottom:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4ZFo0.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Volcano adapter bottom mounting&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4ZFo0.png&quot; alt=&quot;Volcano adapter bottom mounting&quot; title=&quot;Volcano adapter bottom mounting&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the correct positioning of the adapter considering a hex key insert is in the path of the filament, e.g. effects on retraction performance?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/X6bWi.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Volcano adapter views&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/X6bWi.png&quot; alt=&quot;Volcano adapter views&quot; title=&quot;Volcano adapter views&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2022-06-01T11:37:38.677" LastActivityDate="2022-06-01T15:14:56.487" Title="Volcano hot end adapter orientation?" Tags="|nozzle|e3d-v6|e3d-volcano|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19478" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10858" CreationDate="2022-05-31T15:52:15.583" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found the solution to be the exact opposite. My bed was too low (as in too far from the hotend). All the above mentioned aside, I did also drop the flow rate on the brim and initial layer by roughly 2-3 %. Now it prints perfectly again. (your mileage may vary)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="34324" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2022-05-31T16:10:59.637" LastActivityDate="2022-05-31T16:10:59.637" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19479" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-05-31T17:46:12.853" Score="0" ViewCount="357" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have MKS TinyBee board recently purchased. The temperature sensor reading gives either 'Err' or '0'.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have tried all possible sensors in the Marlin table configuration, but still none of them worked. As well as 3 different sensors.&#xA;Is the board faulty or I'm missing a setting?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GJI9d.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Photo of temperature sensor display&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GJI9d.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Photo of temperature sensor display&quot; title=&quot;Photo of temperature sensor display&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="34326" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2022-05-31T18:33:47.403" LastActivityDate="2022-08-07T17:36:03.280" Title="Sensor can not read temperature" Tags="|marlin|inductive-sensor|mks|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19480" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19476" CreationDate="2022-05-31T22:42:46.660" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would think the filament has absorbed too much moisture. You can bake it and then try again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I bake 2 hours at 50 degrees which works ok for me. But the first time I did this some of the roll tried to fuse together and the innermost 1/4 was wasted. So I've found that it's best to loosen the filament on the roll before baking if it's not that much. If it's a full roll I actually unwind it onto an empty spool and roll it loosely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31811" LastActivityDate="2022-05-31T22:42:46.660" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19481" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-06-01T03:31:34.267" Score="1" ViewCount="455" Body="&lt;p&gt;It came up in &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/19480/11157&quot;&gt;an answer&lt;/a&gt; on another question that some filament comes wound with too much tension, making it deform and fuse when attempting to dry it. Rewinding is a solution, but it's a lot of manual work and difficult to do well. Are there working printable systems for respooling filament - particularly, with a mechanism to guide the filament back and forth across the spindle as it rotates so that it ends up distributed properly. I would search for it by name but I don't actually know what that mechanism is called.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2022-06-01T22:58:31.587" Title="Solution for rewinding badly wound filament" Tags="|filament|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19482" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19481" CreationDate="2022-06-01T06:27:57.120" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's called a spool winder (or line winder), works much the same as those used for fishing spools and wire. I haven't made one but seen a few printable ones online.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/tag:spool_winder&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Thingiverse has a bunch of the&lt;/a&gt;m (I haven't personally tried any)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This one has a moving guide for the filament which is what I assume you're after.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YW_1DHMZ3m0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Spool winder with filament guide.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31811" LastEditorUserId="31811" LastEditDate="2022-06-01T08:30:51.250" LastActivityDate="2022-06-01T08:30:51.250" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19483" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-06-01T13:22:19.870" Score="2" ViewCount="4862" Body="&lt;p&gt;The 3D printer I'm using (Creality Ender 3 v2) stops printing at approximately the same height and no matter which model I try to print. When it stops, it does not go to park position or auto home, it just stops and sits on top of the print (getting stuck to it). It just started happening out of the blue, I have printed multiple things before this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZudqJ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;This is how the printer stops, stuck to the print&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZudqJ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;This is how the printer stops, stuck to the print&quot; title=&quot;This is how the printer stops, stuck to the print&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am using the Creality Ender 3 v2, printing PLA at a temperature of 200 °C with the print bed at 70 °C. The Z-axis of the printer woks just fine manually. I changed the nozzle and I've made sure it is not clogged. The firmware does not need to be updated, and the bed is level.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do not know what else the reason could be. Would love to hear your thoughts and opinions on why this is happening. Here's an image of what the print looks like:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HcC6k.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;The dot is the spot where the printer stopped working and just got stuck there until I manually moved it&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HcC6k.png&quot; alt=&quot;The dot is the spot where the printer stopped working and just got stuck there until I manually moved it&quot; title=&quot;The dot is the spot where the printer stopped working and just got stuck there until I manually moved it&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And this is the g-code info from the little I understand about it&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/J7kVZ.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/J7kVZ.png&quot; alt=&quot;g-code&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="34327" LastEditorUserId="34327" LastEditDate="2022-06-01T14:09:57.003" LastActivityDate="2022-06-02T14:07:24.473" Title="Printer stops printing at the same spot for every model" Tags="|creality-ender-3|troubleshooting|pla|z-axis|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19484" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19477" CreationDate="2022-06-01T15:14:56.487" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure what the &lt;em&gt;intended&lt;/em&gt; mounting is, but I would put the hex socket downward towards the nozzle. Especially with a CHT, the opening to the nozzle (3 openings rather) is significantly wider than the normal filament path (usually actually 1.85-2.00 mm), and having the adapter widen just before it should help the filament reach the entire opening smoothly once it's molten and expanded in the space.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Conversely, mounting it with the hex socket pointed upwards creates a point in the melt zone where the path widens then narrows again. Due to the way viscous fluids work, material that gets into this space is very unlikely to merge back with the main flow; it's going to stay there and &lt;strong&gt;bake&lt;/strong&gt;. This could lead to jams or at least increased friction from the molten filament having to pass by carbonized gunk. Even if not, it could leave mismatched color/material filament inside the hotend after a purge, only to have it randomly come out later and ruin your print (or at least make it look ugly).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2022-06-01T15:14:56.487" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19485" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-06-01T17:39:55.903" Score="1" ViewCount="161" Body="&lt;p&gt;I run a non-profit designed to expose high school students to 3D printing and entrepreneurship. The concept is based on pop-up shop-style sales of 3D printed trinkets, toys, artifacts, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I legally sell models we print from the many open source and publicly available museum collections that are available on the internet? Example - a 3D scan of Rodin's &amp;quot;The Thinker&amp;quot; or the British Museum's publically available .stl of the Rosetta stone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is my understanding that these artifacts are in the public domain as they are much older than 1930 though the .stl scans may not be?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keep in mind I am a fully licensed 501c3 non-profit organization.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wondering if there are any good places to find fully licensed models that we could sell without having to worry about copyright infringement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="34336" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2022-06-01T18:15:03.640" LastActivityDate="2022-06-02T09:43:37.897" Title="Commercial use? 3D scans of museum artifacts" Tags="|3d-models|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19487" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19485" CreationDate="2022-06-02T00:10:13.213" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just read the license that comes with the STL. Most I have seen prohibit commercial use without permission.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;good places to find fully licensed models that we could sell without having to worry about copyright infringement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Draw them yourself and there's no issues. Or buy the commercial licenses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31811" LastActivityDate="2022-06-02T00:10:13.213" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19488" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-06-02T05:28:22.027" Score="1" ViewCount="38" Body="&lt;p&gt;Finally upgraded my old stock Marlin Firmware to Marlin 2.0.9.3 (current latest release). I'm using Cura 5.0 as my slicer. Printer is a Folgertech Prusa i3, acrylic. It was working fine but I wanted access to some EEPROM settings that stock didn't have.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Everything seems fine until my prints get to about layer 3 or 4, and then suddenly the print stops, the Z-axis lifts up about 5 mm, and all motors turn off. Cura doesn't show that the print failed or anything and continues to advance the progress bar, but all temperature readings stop updating so I assume the printer has terminated the connection. Aborting the print in Cura does not fix the connection, and I can't jog motors until I unplug the USB and plug it back in. The only change I made is updating firmware, so it must be something there. Any guesses what's happening?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="34342" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2022-06-02T06:27:30.593" LastActivityDate="2022-06-02T06:27:30.593" Title="Prints end after 3 or 4 layers after upgrading stock FW to Marlin 2.0.9.3" Tags="|marlin|ultimaker-cura|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19489" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19485" CreationDate="2022-06-02T09:43:37.897" Score="2" Body="&lt;h1&gt;Not all museum pieces are out of copyright!&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's start with a general primer: an Artwork is out of copyright if it was made by someone that died more than about 70 years ago. For items created by companies a different rule applies.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the copyright on an artwork lapses, anyone can reproduce it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, not all items in museums are out of copyright: Auguste Rodin died in 1917 and thus is &lt;em&gt;free game&lt;/em&gt;, but Eva Hesse only died in 1970, so her works will only be out of copyright in 2040 or later!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;STLs are all under copyright!&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, the STLs are &lt;strong&gt;not&lt;/strong&gt; the artwork, they are a separate artwork that was made by someone that most likely is very much still alive - or at least are still in the protection period.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To use the STL you thus need to acquire a license &lt;strong&gt;from the author of the STL.&lt;/strong&gt; Most freely available STLs are with a license that is &amp;quot;Non commercial&amp;quot; and bans commercial use, so you need to inquire about a commercial license.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastActivityDate="2022-06-02T09:43:37.897" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19490" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19483" CreationDate="2022-06-02T14:07:24.473" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;This behavior can be explained by a truncated gcode file - the printer gets to the end of all that's there of the file, and considers it done. A truncated file can be a symptom of corrupt storage media (corrupt SD card), or trying to save a file to a disk that's full with software that ignores the &amp;quot;disk full&amp;quot; error. At least in certain configurations, some slicers fail to report an error on writing to a full disk; I've had this happen when using Cura from the command line rather than the GUI.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Backing up any important data from the SD card then reformatting it is a good first step to try, and seems to have solved the problem for OP.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2022-06-02T14:07:24.473" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19492" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19495" CreationDate="2022-06-03T15:17:24.977" Score="3" ViewCount="376" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am currently adding a fillet to the base of an object (the plane that's touching the bed) and I was curious if the radius of the filet contributed to any mis-prints. I've had luck so far but was wondering if the intensity of the radius had mattered.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am using the Ender3 Pro.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;I may do some test prints and see for myself and provide an answer to share experience .&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="34352" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2022-06-04T06:44:58.040" LastActivityDate="2022-06-04T06:44:58.040" Title="Can you fillet the base of an object without needing supports? Is there a recommended radius?" Tags="|3d-design|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19493" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-06-03T19:04:49.130" Score="2" ViewCount="406" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to connect an Arduino or similar MCU board to an Ender 3 mainboard and make them communicate. I don't want to use USB. Are there any pins on the controller boards to achieve this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found in the Marlin G-code reference the &lt;code&gt;M118&lt;/code&gt; (serial print) command, this is ideal for my need, but I don't know to catch its serial messages on the mainboard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="34353" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2022-06-03T19:07:30.973" LastActivityDate="2023-05-17T16:49:04.003" Title="Is it possible to send/receive serial messages from/to Ender 3 mainboards (not USB!)?" Tags="|creality-ender-3|electronics|arduino|serial-connection|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19494" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19492" CreationDate="2022-06-03T23:18:00.407" Score="0" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;wondering if the intensity of the radius had mattered.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes it does if it's an overhang.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31811" LastActivityDate="2022-06-03T23:18:00.407" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19495" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19492" CreationDate="2022-06-04T06:32:16.600" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can print a fillet without support as support material causes other issues like problems with removing supports and ugly scarring on you print. However, a fillet will cause an overhang when you slice the object&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mXpkz.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mXpkz.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and may result into poor results as well, see e.g. this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hxKxd.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hxKxd.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your design allows it you should better use a chamfer than a fillet for the base of the print object.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A chamfer prints better than a fillet because a fillet creates an overhang (see indicated area on the left part of the image below.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fiFxU.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fiFxU.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;em&gt;Image from &lt;a href=&quot;https://support.3dverkstan.se/article/38-designing-for-3d-printing#:%7E:text=It%27s%20important%20that%20you%20use,printer%20will%20handle%20very%20nicely.&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;3DVerkstan&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A chamfer, which normally is a 45° straight cut-off, doesn't create an overhang and, as such, prints better. If you still want a fillet, you could start with a chamfer of which you fillet the top, see the right part of the image above.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A chamfer with the height of the first and second layer is generally a good idea to reduce the slightly over “squished” first layer issues that create a lip around the base of the part.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2022-06-04T06:40:11.107" LastActivityDate="2022-06-04T06:40:11.107" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19496" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-06-04T06:46:30.180" Score="1" ViewCount="1027" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't know how to describe it, but when I print on my Phrozen Sonic Mini with this resin, this happens (it's Siraya tech, but it happens with regular resin too). The bottom half, the stuff furthest from the build plate gets wonky looking. The first picture, the print supposed to have a flat bottom, but it bulges out, and it has to be round, but it's not perfectly round. I printed it at a 45° angle, and it used a ton of supports, and 3.5  seconds exposure per layer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CTDs7.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CTDs7.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZZqiU.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZZqiU.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5579" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2022-07-04T21:04:01.370" LastActivityDate="2022-12-02T00:00:55.110" Title="What could be the cause of these resin prints looking wonky?" Tags="|troubleshooting|resin|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19497" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19496" CreationDate="2022-06-04T07:37:09.090" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This might be a problem with the structure and orientation of the print - if you print large flat areas in one go, the still malleable resin can get sucked at and deform, the next layer then reinforcing the deformed state and thus creating the odd bulging pattern.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might want to tilt the printed parts so that the flat areas are printed at some angle and thus reducing the area on which forces are applied on layer change.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastActivityDate="2022-06-04T07:37:09.090" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19499" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-06-04T14:23:15.167" Score="1" ViewCount="144" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have massive print-quality issues on my Anycubic Vyper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you can see on the first, third and fourth image, there is some sort of bulging or shifting happening. The issue seems to be related to the x-Axis.&#xA;I took the printer apart and inspected the whole axis. No issues were found. The carriage moves uniformly, until it enters the area where the bulging happens. Then it suddenly has a lot less resistance and it feels as if it &amp;quot;slides&amp;quot; into a small detent. I can't feel any issues on the extrusion though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can't feel these &amp;quot;detents&amp;quot; when the belts are properly tightened and I move the carriage by hand. There is no sudden massive resistance or anything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have tried all sort of different levels of tightness of the eccentric nut. Ranging from stock (problem was there out of the box) to loose to really tight. The problem stays.&#xA;I have also re-oriented the bowden tube, it didn't change anything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first major bulge is slightly to the right of the center. Left of it no problems were experienced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What's the issue and how can I fix it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/spPmz.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/spPmz.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;highlightet area on first layer&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PNvw3.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PNvw3.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;overall printer&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gbsfv.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gbsfv.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;massive problem&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sK6XW.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sK6XW.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;massive problem&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7947" LastActivityDate="2022-11-25T17:05:02.000" Title="Bulging on distinctive lengths along the X-Axis (on all layers)" Tags="|marlin|y-axis|x-axis|carriage|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19500" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19450" CreationDate="2022-06-04T14:41:51.060" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I run a small print farm made up of Ender 3's with SKR Mini 2.0 boards. We print ASA, ABS, and Nylon with Nozzle temps of 245-260 °C and bed temps of 105 °C. This is all done without a heated enclosure. There is no reason for your Ender 3 to not be able to do this as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My first check would be the attachment of the thermistor to the heat block. Any chance this got dislodged and isn't taking accurate measurements? Does it have a good thermal connection to the heat block? I haven't seen this type of thermistor before. How does it connect to the hotend?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="34357" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2022-06-04T16:27:37.457" LastActivityDate="2022-06-04T16:27:37.457" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19502" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-06-04T18:51:11.903" Score="0" ViewCount="1098" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had a piece of filament break off in the tube and could not unload it so I removed the extruder and pulled out the piece. Reloaded filament and started to recalibrate. The head went to left and tried to keep going. It made a horrible thumping and would not stop until I turned the unit off. I then tried to home it, same result. Tried to reset to factory settings then home it and same result. Any ideas?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="34362" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2022-06-04T22:12:25.300" LastActivityDate="2023-12-19T15:06:10.827" Title="Flashforge adventurer 3 will not home or calibrate" Tags="|troubleshooting|firmware|flashforge-adventurer-3|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19503" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-06-04T19:18:26.070" Score="3" ViewCount="645" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm using a TriGorilla 2560 and Marlin bugfix 2.0.x, and two stepper motors that I'm using as two Z-axes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For some reason, both Z ports, and the E1 port are being driven by the same stepper driver:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XjIZe.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Annotated diagram showing E1 port&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XjIZe.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Annotated diagram showing E1 port&quot; title=&quot;Annotated diagram showing E1 port&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem is that only one port is actually working well, meanwhile, the other ports (one Z port and E1 port) make the stepper jag as in &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/7rc7fLnFJgg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this YouTube video&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, there is a driver that looks like it is not being used by anything:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IV4nd.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Annotated diagram showing unused port&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IV4nd.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Annotated diagram showing unused port&quot; title=&quot;Annotated diagram showing unused port&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I wanted to try to assign that driver, to the E1 port (and a Z port), and see how it goes, if it does fix the issue or not, but the problem is that I have no idea on how to do that on Marlin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Under the pins section either of TriGorilla and RAMPS, all I can find are the definitions of the ports, so I can swap port usage, but not assign a specific driver to a specific port.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it helps, &lt;a href=&quot;https://we.tl/t-XjTcoWGEHq&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here's my Marlin zip&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="34360" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2024-02-27T19:09:13.963" LastActivityDate="2024-02-27T19:09:13.963" Title="Marlin 2.0.x bugfix: how do you define a specific driver to be used when driving a specific stepper?" Tags="|marlin|stepper-driver|stepper|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19504" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19503" CreationDate="2022-06-04T21:46:31.557" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I guess you are asking to swap drivers, this should be done on microcontroller pin level in the &lt;code&gt;pins_[board_type].h&lt;/code&gt; file from Marlin. This has been described in e.g. &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/5786/&quot;&gt;this answer&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or, do you mean:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#define Y_DRIVER_TYPE  A4988&#xA;#define Z_DRIVER_TYPE  A4988&#xA;//#define X2_DRIVER_TYPE A4988&#xA;//#define Y2_DRIVER_TYPE A4988&#xA;//#define Z2_DRIVER_TYPE A4988&#xA;//#define Z3_DRIVER_TYPE A4988&#xA;//#define Z4_DRIVER_TYPE A4988&#xA;//#define I_DRIVER_TYPE  A4988&#xA;//#define J_DRIVER_TYPE  A4988&#xA;//#define K_DRIVER_TYPE  A4988&#xA;#define E0_DRIVER_TYPE A4988&#xA;//#define E1_DRIVER_TYPE A4988&#xA;//#define E2_DRIVER_TYPE A4988&#xA;//#define E3_DRIVER_TYPE A4988&#xA;//#define E4_DRIVER_TYPE A4988&#xA;//#define E5_DRIVER_TYPE A4988&#xA;//#define E6_DRIVER_TYPE A4988&#xA;//#define E7_DRIVER_TYPE A4988&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of the &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/blob/8aca38351cd6d33a1202bf9a13890dc8e5eadd49/Marlin/Configuration.h#L168&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;configuration.h&lt;/a&gt; file?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The following options are available:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt; * Options: A4988, A5984, DRV8825, LV8729, L6470, L6474, POWERSTEP01,&#xA; *          TB6560, TB6600, TMC2100,&#xA; *          TMC2130, TMC2130_STANDALONE, TMC2160, TMC2160_STANDALONE,&#xA; *          TMC2208, TMC2208_STANDALONE, TMC2209, TMC2209_STANDALONE,&#xA; *          TMC26X,  TMC26X_STANDALONE,  TMC2660, TMC2660_STANDALONE,&#xA; *          TMC5130, TMC5130_STANDALONE, TMC5160, TMC5160_STANDALONE&#xA; * :['A4988', 'A5984', 'DRV8825', 'LV8729', 'L6470', 'L6474', 'POWERSTEP01', 'TB6560', 'TB6600', 'TMC2100', 'TMC2130', 'TMC2130_STANDALONE', 'TMC2160', 'TMC2160_STANDALONE', 'TMC2208', 'TMC2208_STANDALONE', 'TMC2209', 'TMC2209_STANDALONE', 'TMC26X', 'TMC26X_STANDALONE', 'TMC2660', 'TMC2660_STANDALONE', 'TMC5130', 'TMC5130_STANDALONE', 'TMC5160', 'TMC5160_STANDALONE']&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2024-02-25T10:01:53.470" LastActivityDate="2024-02-25T10:01:53.470" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19505" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19502" CreationDate="2022-06-04T22:16:42.873" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This can happen when the end stop of the X-axis (i.e. the minimum end stop on the left) has moved/bent/broken/un-connected.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please look into &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/19701/5&quot;&gt;this answer&lt;/a&gt; of question &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/19699/flashforge-adventurer-3-how-to-replace-x-axis-endstop&quot;&gt;Flashforge Adventurer 3 - how to replace X-axis endstop&lt;/a&gt;. The X end stop is a module inside the print head, please look if the connector is dislodged or something.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2022-07-27T12:57:12.637" LastActivityDate="2022-07-27T12:57:12.637" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19506" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18993" CreationDate="2022-06-04T22:24:35.413" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Try making sure there is a clean cut on the end. No fraying or angle. A straight clean cut. Then when loading push it a little. Give the filament a little help. It's worked for me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="34362" LastActivityDate="2022-06-04T22:24:35.413" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19507" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-06-04T22:36:18.227" Score="1" ViewCount="5028" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently bought a Creality Ender 3 V2. I have heard that it is best to use a raft when printing. I have tried to use a raft a few different times using PLA, with different settings each time. When I try to peel the raft off of the print, it will snap around the bottom of the print. Are there any recommended slicer settings or printer tips to help this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="34367" LastActivityDate="2022-06-19T12:09:18.447" Title="When I print with a raft on my 3D printer, the raft will not peel off. What settings can I change to fix this?" Tags="|creality-ender-3|pla|rafts|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19508" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-06-04T23:45:12.730" Score="0" ViewCount="203" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Creality Ender 3 V2. I have done quite a few prints with it using only PLA. When the prints are done, there is always a bubbly looking ring around the bottom of them. I have tried using rafts, and changing slicer settings to fix this and nothing has worked. Are there any ways I can try to fix this?&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/55Fnm.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/55Fnm.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0Hr4K.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0Hr4K.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="34367" LastEditorUserId="34367" LastEditDate="2022-06-05T17:22:14.750" LastActivityDate="2022-07-05T20:06:05.620" Title="Every time I print with my Ender 3 V2, I get a bubbly ring around the bottom. How can I fix this?" Tags="|creality-ender-3|pla|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2022-07-06T12:19:32.100" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19510" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-06-05T01:09:32.863" Score="1" ViewCount="940" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Creality Ender 3 V2. I do a fairly good amount of printing with it, using only PLA.I have notice when I am printing between gaps or doing multiple objects at once, I get a lot of stringing. Some of the stringing is extremely thin, and others are thick like it was still printing through the gap. Are there any ways that I can fix this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="34367" LastActivityDate="2022-07-05T03:09:40.987" Title="When printing multiple objects at once, or traveling over gaps in prints, I get a lot of stringing. How can I help this?" Tags="|creality-ender-3|pla|stringing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19511" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19510" CreationDate="2022-06-05T03:00:14.570" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Stringing can arise in at least four ways:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Retracting the filament by an insufficient length to prevent material from oozing out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Not retracting the filament at all before some or all travel moves, because of bad options in the slicer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Having filament that's so moisture-contaminated that boiling of water it's absorbed makes the filament bubble out of the nozzle even when it is properly retracted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Moving the nozzle over already-printed material in ways that tends to &amp;quot;pull it up&amp;quot; and get it stuck to the nozzle, where it later gets deposited as semi-random strings. This mostly happens as a result of travel without retraction (see above) but the mechanism is different; it's not newly oozed material.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To solve it, ensure that all slicer options that cause retraction to be skipped are disabled. Particularly, under Cura or Cura-derived slicers, &amp;quot;limit support retractions&amp;quot; should be off, and &amp;quot;minimum extrusion distance window&amp;quot; should be set to 0 to ensure multiple retractions in rapid succession aren't skipped. And of course &amp;quot;enable retraction&amp;quot; should be on. Watch during a print to make sure the extruder is turning backwards before every travel move from one part to another.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you still have stringing, tune the retraction distance with a retraction tower. If it doesn't seem to go away regardless of distance, your filament is probably excessively wet, and you should dry it. If you have a good drying setup, this is probably the &lt;em&gt;first thing&lt;/em&gt; you should try, since it doesn't require any manual work just time and it's likely to be the core problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2022-06-05T03:00:14.570" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19512" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19507" CreationDate="2022-06-05T07:42:44.403" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Have a look at the distance of your nozzle / leveling of your bed. I experienced difficulties removing my prints when the nozzle is to close to the bed. Furthermore try different bed temperatures when removing the print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="34370" LastActivityDate="2022-06-05T07:42:44.403" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19513" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19507" CreationDate="2022-06-05T14:59:26.560" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have heard that it is best to use a raft&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Actually, it is not best to use a raft, a raft is an aid that can best be used in special cases, e.g. for filaments that shrink reasonably (PLA is not such a filament).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A raft always caused a rough bottom of your print and is frequently difficult to remove. A raft is an aid for adhesion if your print object geometry or choice of filament requires you to use it, but as far as printing PLA, a raft is generally not needed. You need to spend some time to level the bed properly and dial in the best nozzle to bed distance (the thickness of a sheet of plain printing paper like A4 or US Letter will work fine).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are usually options available in slicer software to control the distance between the raft and the first layer of the print object. It is also reported that inserting a wait time to solidify/cool the raft is beneficial for creating less strong bonds between the raft and the print object.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2022-06-19T12:09:18.447" LastActivityDate="2022-06-19T12:09:18.447" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19514" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19507" CreationDate="2022-06-05T15:34:32.230" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Rafts fuse with models because the filament gets overheated. To avoid this, keep the temperature in the room between between 23 and 28 °C. Malfunctioning extruder fans, a heater &amp;amp; thermocouple, extruder printed circuit board (PCB), extruder cable, and motherboard can be also to blame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="34372" LastActivityDate="2022-06-05T15:34:32.230" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19515" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19508" CreationDate="2022-06-05T18:47:00.040" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Something is wrong with your bed height, Z axis mechanics, or &amp;quot;automatic bed leveling&amp;quot; if you're using that. During this section of the print, the nozzle is not accurately at the requested distance from the bed, and material is spewing out to the sides where the printer tries to print the next layer too close to the previous one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Try using the printer controls to manually move the head in small increments around 0.1 or 0.2 mm, and measure that the distance between the bed surface and gantry changes by the expected amount each time you move. I expect you'll find that it doesn't.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We'll probably need further information to track down exactly why it's not happening.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2022-06-05T18:47:00.040" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19516" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-06-05T22:16:19.453" Score="0" ViewCount="37" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've searched a lot but found nothing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am fairly new to 3D printing but I know how to print waterproof cases (choosing the right filament and settings).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I am wondering is how about I/O (Input/Output) e.g. displays, LEDs, buttons, and connectors (ports).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I use these parts and how to seal them, etc.?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What other ways do users usually choose for I/O?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="34377" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2022-06-05T23:57:50.947" LastActivityDate="2022-06-05T23:57:50.947" Title="Waterproof/resistent cutouts" Tags="|water-resistance|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19517" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19238" CreationDate="2022-06-06T04:49:53.243" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've only just started my journey in 3d printing, but I have a little hobbyist experience in other forms of &amp;quot;structural crafting&amp;quot;. I can see a few ways you can use 3d printing to enhance other techniques - the main one being that a printed part can be used to make a mold, which you can then use to cast aluminum, bronze, or whatever else.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="34381" LastActivityDate="2022-06-06T04:49:53.243" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19519" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-06-06T10:17:35.353" Score="1" ViewCount="143" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently ripped a piece off of a nitro RC car I have. Seeing as I cannot find a direct replacement at the moment, I modeled it and it seems easy to 3d print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My main concern is how heat resistant the replacement will be - this is a combined structural/exhaust heat deflector piece.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've previously known about 30-40% steel infused PLA, but looking at the reviews/overviews everyone states there is no structural advantage to steel/metal infused PLA.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That being said, are there any benefits at all, aside from styling? Temperature resistance, conductivity, stiffness, toughness?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25297" LastActivityDate="2022-06-06T12:16:03.480" Title="Aside from aesthetics, are there any benefits to metal infused 3d printing filament?" Tags="|filament|filament-choice|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19520" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19519" CreationDate="2022-06-06T11:16:37.333" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As far as I know, the only mechanical gain from metal-bearing filament is that it is the basis for printing metal parts with a filament printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This works similarly to Metal Injection Molding: the part is printed with filament containing as large a percentage as practical of the chosen metal (usually stainless steel, bronze, or copper), with a suitable shrink factor applied to the dimensions; the plastic is then baked out in a vacuum oven, followed by a temperature increase to the sintering temperature of the incorporated metal to fuse the metal particles into a solid part.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This can produce parts with similar levels of accuracy to as-cast investment casting, but in shapes that would not be possible (for instance, hollow spaces that don't connect to the surface of the part) and in materials (stainless steel) that are difficult to cast, never mind investment cast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Notable here is that in this case, the metal inclusion does nothing for mechanical properties of the part &lt;em&gt;as printed&lt;/em&gt;, but rather is the final part; the plastic only serves as a carrier to allow the metal to be delivered by a common 3D printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28508" LastActivityDate="2022-06-06T11:16:37.333" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19521" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19519" CreationDate="2022-06-06T11:57:50.100" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The only advantage is the look (debatable, the copper infused filament I tried just looks like vaguely copper coloured plastic) and weight. It weighs more so if your model has a need for weight it's one way of achieving it, although there are other ways.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally I think it's worse than normal filament because it's actually not as strong. If you have 30 percent metal powder, then that means you have 30 percent LESS plastic to fuse together. So while it's fine for non complex parts, it struggles to print many others. So you need to design your model with the filament in mind. This is applicable to wood infused filament as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So structurally it's quite a big disadvantage, not an advantage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Electrically it's not conductive, or at least not enough to be useful, I tried electroplating a model and after 2 hours there's wasn't a trace of it plating.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For an exhaust I wouldn't recommend any PLA. They deform under any sort of heat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31811" LastEditorUserId="31811" LastEditDate="2022-06-06T12:16:03.480" LastActivityDate="2022-06-06T12:16:03.480" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19522" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19529" CreationDate="2022-06-06T16:26:08.540" Score="2" ViewCount="361" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am working on a &lt;a href=&quot;https://bricks.stackexchange.com/questions/17128/looking-for-a-pc-controlled-motor-that-allows-for-very-small-and-precise-movemen&quot;&gt;prototype&lt;/a&gt; and I have a need for a motor shaft to Lego axle adapter for use with a stepper motor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My overall project entails controlling a stepper motor using C# via USB connection to make very small rotations which will adjust the height of a specimen stage (constructed from Legos) for a stereo microscope.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I need adapters similar to &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.cgtrader.com/free-3d-print-models/hobby-diy/mechanical-parts/6mm-dshaft-to-lego-axis-adapter&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;6mm D shaft to Lego axis adapter Free 3D print model&lt;/a&gt; but for 4 mm dia motor D shaft and 5 mm dia motor D shaft&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The purpose of the adapter is to allow very small and slow rotations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I do not want to own the model designs, ideally they can be given away for free (&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.cgtrader.com/free-3d-print-models/hobby-diy/mechanical-parts/6mm-dshaft-to-lego-axis-adapter&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;similar to the link above&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I need several of the adapter pieces; 3 of each (4 mm and 5 mm) printed and what would be a fair price for this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I have no idea what type of material should be used to print these, I think Acrylonitrile Butadiene Styrene (ABS) would do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2650" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2022-06-12T13:22:22.783" LastActivityDate="2022-06-12T13:22:22.783" Title="Stepper motor D shaft to Lego axle adapter" Tags="|3d-models|3d-design|bricks|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19523" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-06-06T18:09:16.807" Score="0" ViewCount="393" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm pretty new to 3D printing, got my printer about 5 days ago and spent most of my time with it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First off, it is an Ender 3 Pro with everything stock, haven't made any upgrades except I run it with OctoPrint from a Raspberry Pi Zero but I have determined that's not the source of the problem as it's well within 80 % idle on its CPU.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The issue I'm experiencing is that the extruder starts slipping at some point along the print. It's not the clicky type of slipping that appears to be the common issue but rather it's just spinning and grinding on the filament which is remaining stationary. When this happens the printer continues on about its business as it's unaware that filament is not coming out. I move the Z-axis up, squeeze the extruder lever and try to push on the filament which is not budging, which made me think I had a clogged nozzle. I was surprised as it's a brand new printer but the internet says that nozzles clog up so I disassembled and cleaned it just to find that it happens again on my very next print. I noticed that when I pull or push on the filament by hand while squeezing the extruder lever - relieving pressure from the gear, it is quite hard to do so, even partly impossible as my fingers start to slip, I have to squeeze extremely hard or use pliers. I pulled the filament out using quite a bit of force, then snapped off the piece that was already in the tubing and inserted fresh filament which slid very easily through the white tubing to the hot end and when reaching it by pushing very gently I start to see filament coming out as opposed to pushing really hard and barely anything coming out previously. If I do that and return the Z-axis to its position then resume the print it continues until that happens again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My bed is leveled as best as I can, I downloaded the bed leveling G-codes that help a lot to achieve good adhesion, my prints look pretty much perfect, smooth lines very pleasing to the look and touch, until what I mentioned above happens.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't understand what could be the reason that my filament would just bind up like that and snipping it off and inserting a new piece there's no sign of the issue whatsoever.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Notes for what it's worth:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I'm using cheap black PLA 1.75 mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hotend temperature 200 °C&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bed temperature 60 °C&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Printing speed 50 mm/s&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The extruder pulley (white wheel with the bearing) bolt is not tightened to the end as recommended on the internet&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The spring bolt on the extruder is not tightened also, as I see there are marks on the filament that went past the extruder wheel, anyway I tried tightening it for the sake of it and it didn't help&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;My extruder arm is not cracked&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The gear (brass wheel) doesn't seem to be damaged&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="34389" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2022-06-28T06:23:44.943" LastActivityDate="2022-06-28T06:23:44.943" Title="Filament not being extruded" Tags="|pla|extruder|filament|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19524" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-06-06T20:25:02.350" Score="0" ViewCount="479" Body="&lt;p&gt;I replaced my belt that had snapped and tightened it with the tension adjuster. Now, either the tension is too tight to allow the Y-axis belt motors to move the bed, or otherwise, the bed skips at some point during the print at least once, offsetting the entire print and ruining it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Perhaps I could increase the power to the motor, but how would I do that, and also is that smart judging by the factory settings power limit? I don't want to overpower the motor, the belt is pretty much identical to the one before it so I would imagine it should be the same performance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Klipper + FluiddPI&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Raspberry Pi 3+&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Anycubic Mega X&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://share.icloud.com/photos/057p0SJQC3TSsunzAtOuIjDEw&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Here is a link&lt;/a&gt; to some videos of the belt being moved manually. I can see it skipping on the belt here at various tensions. does this show anything particularly telling? I am almost certain the two belts are the same, but maybe I'm wrong..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Belt tight (too tight to allow the Y-axis belt motors to move the bed):&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3IJLX.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3IJLX.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Belt loose (the bed skips at some point during the print):&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yPuFP.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yPuFP.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="34393" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2022-06-07T12:31:26.260" LastActivityDate="2022-06-07T12:31:26.260" Title="Moving bed Y-axis belt keeps skipping after replacement" Tags="|bed-leveling|y-axis|anycubic-i3-mega|anycubic-chiron|anycubic-ultrabase|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19525" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19523" CreationDate="2022-06-06T23:44:30.120" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is probably the filament. I've had the exact same issue on my Ender 3 Pro and solved it by baking the filament.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suggest you try with another filament just to make sure. Or bake a length of the filament for a couple of hours at 50 degrees and try again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other possibility is that the filament is not consistent in diameter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31811" LastEditorUserId="31811" LastEditDate="2022-06-06T23:57:27.043" LastActivityDate="2022-06-06T23:57:27.043" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19527" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-06-08T10:13:47.963" Score="4" ViewCount="689" Body="&lt;p&gt;Why is it more common for consumer level FDM printers to move the extruder on the Z-axis (For example, the Ender 3) while the bed remains at a fixed height, than to have a bed that moves up and down on the Z-axis?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="29097" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2022-06-08T12:10:26.687" LastActivityDate="2022-06-08T12:10:26.687" Title="Why is it more common to move the extruder on the Z-axis than the print bed, in consumer FDM printers?" Tags="|creality-ender-3|prusa-i3|desktop-printer|bed|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19528" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19527" CreationDate="2022-06-08T12:08:57.003" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The reason is economics, building cheap printers for the masses requires the use of as less material as possible; this keeps the price down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A bed that moves up and down requires a sturdy construction and usually more and more expensive materials.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you look at the Prusa i3 style printer, the bed moves in Y direction while the X-Z is a single plane perpendicular to the Y-axis. This allowed printer designs to have a single upright frame made from acrylic (not the best solution, but cheap) or steel plate (expensive due to the cutout and waste material) or aluminum profiles (value for money solution). If you need the bed to go up and down, you need to constrain the X-Y plane high above the build plate (e.g. Ultimaker printers, Hypercube, etc.); this requires a stiff frame and hence more material.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Do note that e.g. the Voron 2.4 although a boxed up printer, has a fixed bed and a moving X-Y plane. This requires even more materials and is even more expensive.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2022-06-08T12:08:57.003" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19529" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19522" CreationDate="2022-06-09T07:13:25.590" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;OpenSCAD would be well suited for creating something made up of relatively simple shapes, where different dimensions are needed for some parts of the shapes - like the diameters and offsets of your stepper motor shafts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A solution in OpenSCAD could look something like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;outer_diameter = 8.5;   //Outer diameter of the adapter&#xA;stepper_length = 12;    //Length of the stepper shaft&#xA;stepper_diameter = 4;   //Diameter of the stepper shaft&#xA;stepper_d_offset = 1.6; //Offset from the center of the shaft to the plane of the D&#xA;&#xA;//4mm shaft: d = 4, offset = 1.6&#xA;//5mm shaft: d = 5, offset = 2&#xA;//6mm shaft: d = 6, offset = 2.5&#xA;&#xA;thickness_mid = 2;      //Thickness of the massive section between stepper and lego shafts&#xA;&#xA;lego_length = 10;           //Length of the lego shaft&#xA;lego_diameter = 4.9;        //Outer diameter of the lego shaft&#xA;lego_internal_width = 1.9;    //Width of the slots for the shaft&#xA;lego_corner_radius = 0.5;&#xA;&#xA;cutout_size = lego_diameter;&#xA;cutout_translate = cutout_size / 2 + lego_internal_width / 2;&#xA;$fn = 128;               //Accuracy / resolution of circles&#xA;eps = 0.01;&#xA;&#xA;module fillet_square(width, radius) {&#xA;    translate([radius - width / 2, radius - width / 2, 0])&#xA;        minkowski() {&#xA;            square(width - 2 * radius);&#xA;            circle(radius);&#xA;        }&#xA;}&#xA;color(0,0.5)&#xA;union(){&#xA;    linear_extrude(height = stepper_length + eps) {&#xA;        difference() {&#xA;            circle(d = outer_diameter);   &#xA;            difference() {&#xA;                circle(d = stepper_diameter);&#xA;                translate([0, stepper_d_offset + stepper_diameter / 2, 0]) {&#xA;                    square(size = stepper_diameter, center = true);&#xA;                }&#xA;            }&#xA;        }&#xA;    }&#xA;    translate([0, 0, stepper_length]) {        &#xA;        linear_extrude(height = thickness_mid) {&#xA;            circle(d = outer_diameter);&#xA;        }&#xA;    }&#xA;    translate([0, 0, stepper_length + thickness_mid - eps]) {        &#xA;        linear_extrude(height = lego_length + eps) {&#xA;            difference() {&#xA;                circle(d = outer_diameter);&#xA;                difference() {&#xA;                    circle(d = lego_diameter);&#xA;                    translate([cutout_translate, cutout_translate, 0]) {&#xA;                        fillet_square(cutout_size, lego_corner_radius);&#xA;                    }&#xA;                    translate([cutout_translate, -cutout_translate, 0]) {&#xA;                        fillet_square(cutout_size, lego_corner_radius);&#xA;                    }&#xA;                    translate([-cutout_translate, cutout_translate, 0]) {&#xA;                        fillet_square(cutout_size, lego_corner_radius);&#xA;                    }&#xA;                    translate([-cutout_translate, -cutout_translate, 0]) {&#xA;                        fillet_square(cutout_size, lego_corner_radius);&#xA;                    }&#xA;                }&#xA;            }&#xA;        }&#xA;    }&#xA;}&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HbuR4.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HbuR4.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can then export your .stl file (or any other format) for 3D-printing from OpenSCAD.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13171" LastActivityDate="2022-06-09T07:13:25.590" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19530" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19523" CreationDate="2022-06-09T07:45:36.457" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I experienced similar problems when I changed to other filament. The solution was to open my enclosure as the inside temperature was too hot and the filament got too soft for extraction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Moreover have a look at the gear wheels position and maybe adjust the height a bit. At one time my wheel screws got loosened and the wheel was sitting too low resulting in irregular skipping.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="34370" LastActivityDate="2022-06-09T07:45:36.457" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19531" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-06-09T15:34:05.497" Score="0" ViewCount="1251" Body="&lt;p&gt;My Creality Ender 6 has stopped moving beyond the boot screen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It kind of happened suddenly. Another thing is that I have a red light on the motherboard at the D2 location that is turned on continuously after I turn on the printer. The screen is stuck on boot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What happened before the problem:&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;The distance between the nozzle and the bed was low, so there was a lot of accumulation of polymer. I had to clean much of it manually after I saw it had built up significantly. It had accumulated so much that it was even touching the internal fan, and got accumulated on some of the wirings on the printhead as well. I broke a portion of the fan's fin in cleaning out the then solidified polymer. After I turned the printer off and turned it back on once the cleaning was done, it got stuck on the boot screen and has not moved beyond that point despite my trying different things.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can anyone advise what could be the potential sources of the problem and how these could be resolved?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="33558" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2022-06-14T22:00:13.990" LastActivityDate="2022-06-14T22:00:13.990" Title="Creality Ender 6 does not boot beyond the boot screen" Tags="|troubleshooting|creality-ender-6|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19532" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21545" CreationDate="2022-06-09T16:27:35.160" Score="4" ViewCount="797" Body="&lt;p&gt;What are the meanings of the &lt;strong&gt;red&lt;/strong&gt;, &lt;strong&gt;green&lt;/strong&gt;, and &lt;strong&gt;blue&lt;/strong&gt; light prompts on the Ender 6 motherboard? My Ender 6 is stuck at the boot screen. I followed the instructions provided in the &amp;quot;Creality After-Sale&amp;quot; videos on YouTube and took apart the base of the printer to look if any wiring was loose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found that the red light was continuously on at the D2 position on the motherboard. Creality's video showed the light on this location of the motherboard to be blue. I also checked on the internet and it appears some users also have a green light. Users also report the light blinks but in my case, it remains red throughout.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am wondering if this indicates what is wrong with my printer and why it is stuck on the boot screen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="33558" LastEditorUserId="8353" LastEditDate="2022-06-12T13:23:02.370" LastActivityDate="2023-10-25T20:41:08.787" Title="Meaning of light prompts on Ender 6 motherboard" Tags="|repair|creality-ender-6|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19534" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-06-10T13:17:05.983" Score="1" ViewCount="1600" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am trying to fix my Ender 3 printer at work. Someone else had it before me and added a direct drive extruder, auto bed leveling, and changed the firmware. He claimed it worked fine, however when I started a print the nozzle was clogged beyond belief so it would not print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I changed nozzles and had to clean up the heating block a little bit. Once I reassembled the printer and booted it up it shows the error message of Thermal Runaway for extruder 1 and tells me to reset it. I tried powering it off and back on to &amp;quot;reset&amp;quot; it but that did nothing. Within about 10 seconds of turning the printer on the error message shows up and it starts beeping obnoxiously.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this caused by something wrong with the thermistor? Everything I have read so far says to check for a faulty thermistor and see if the room temperature reading is 0 °C. However, I cannot do that because it gives the error instantly and will not leave that screen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="34430" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2022-06-10T18:29:39.880" LastActivityDate="2023-07-06T09:07:56.030" Title="Ender 3 Thermal Runaway Error when booting up" Tags="|creality-ender-3|firmware|thermistor|thermal-runaway|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19535" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19534" CreationDate="2022-06-11T06:13:25.150" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've found a single reference of the same issue you are experiencing. That Ender 3 also showed the thermal runaway error on startup.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This was caused by a hotend thermistor that was shorted out, replacing the thermistor solved the issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Quoting the reference, context:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I installed a new Micro-Swiss hot end.Did a few prints with it, works great!When I wanted to do another one, the printer made a loud beeping noise, and gave a Thermal Runaway at E1 error at startup.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Solution:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For people stumbling across this in the future, my issue was resolved by a shorted thermistor. After changing it to another one, the printer worked fine and gives a temp readout.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2022-06-11T06:13:25.150" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19536" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19539" CreationDate="2022-06-11T10:26:53.657" Score="2" ViewCount="944" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have radial fan with 2 pins connector and always kept it connected to &lt;code&gt;GND&lt;/code&gt;/&lt;code&gt;5V&lt;/code&gt; pins (marked J5 at the left bottom on pinout image for my controller board).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've stumbled upon the &lt;code&gt;USE_CONTROLLER_FAN&lt;/code&gt; feature of Marlin which allows setting some pin to be used for PWM-controlling a control board fan. I think &lt;code&gt;SERVO0_PIN&lt;/code&gt; should do fine (&lt;code&gt;D11&lt;/code&gt; at the bottom center on the pinout image), but I'm not sure how to connect it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Should I split connector and use &lt;code&gt;GND&lt;/code&gt; + &lt;code&gt;D11&lt;/code&gt; pins?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Or should I use some proper PWM fan for that (which are always 4pin and then how would one connect THAT to those pins?)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is it safe to run a fan directly from board pins or should I resort to using either unused MOSFET outputs (e.g. &lt;code&gt;FAN&lt;/code&gt; MOSFET pin marked as &lt;code&gt;D9&lt;/code&gt; on the left)?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Should I use dedicated MOSFET board to drive that fan using that SERVO0_PIN?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/u0kzf.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/u0kzf.png&quot; alt=&quot;MKS GEN v1.4 board pinout&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10944" LastActivityDate="2022-06-12T04:59:13.053" Title="Connecting controller fan on RAMPS 1.4 for Marlin" Tags="|marlin|wiring|fans|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19537" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-06-11T15:31:06.663" Score="2" ViewCount="32" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently burnt out one of the MOSFETS on my RAMPS 1.4 board on my Sintron Kossel clone so have upgraded it to a RAMPS 1.6.&#xA;Now my printer seems to only print 50 % of the intended size.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After the machine homes it only comes down about 50 % of the distance and so starts printing in mid air.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I thought it might have been the driver steps? The DRV 8825 drivers are 32 steps instead of 16. I changed this value in the firmware but it didn't make any difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any suggestions?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="34443" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2022-06-12T04:41:05.833" LastActivityDate="2022-06-12T21:43:04.077" Title="Printing half size after board replacement" Tags="|kossel|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19538" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19537" CreationDate="2022-06-12T01:39:17.223" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Data from Firmware is not written into EEPROM on its own after updating your firmware. You need to send a &lt;code&gt;M502&lt;/code&gt; to &amp;quot;seed&amp;quot; the firmware numbers as that is restoring the &amp;quot;default&amp;quot; settings in it. If you are unsure what is currently the EEPROM setting, use &lt;code&gt;M503&lt;/code&gt; first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2022-06-12T21:43:04.077" LastActivityDate="2022-06-12T21:43:04.077" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19539" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19536" CreationDate="2022-06-12T04:59:13.053" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Servo pins are PWM pins, so yes &lt;code&gt;D11&lt;/code&gt; can be used, but not directly connected to the fan as the pins only allow a very low current. You'll need a MOSFET to drive the fan. You don't need 4-pin fans, 2-pin fans will suffice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2022-06-12T04:59:13.053" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19540" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19537" CreationDate="2022-06-12T06:47:44.163" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you changed you stepper drivers here's a list to check:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Microstepping Jumpers&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In Marlin Configuration.h:&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;code&gt;X_DRIVER_TYPE&lt;/code&gt;, &lt;code&gt;Y_DRIVER_TYPE&lt;/code&gt;, &lt;code&gt;Z_DRIVER_TYPE&lt;/code&gt; and&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;code&gt;E0_DRIVER_TYPE&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;code&gt;DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;code&gt;INVERT_X_DIR&lt;/code&gt;, &lt;code&gt;INVERT_Y_DIR&lt;/code&gt;, &lt;code&gt;INVERT_Z_DIR&lt;/code&gt; and &lt;code&gt;INVERT_E0_DIR&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol start=&quot;3&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In Marlin Configuration_adv.h:&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;code&gt;MINIMUM_STEPPER_POST_DIR_DELAY&lt;/code&gt;, &lt;code&gt;MINIMUM_STEPPER_PRE_DIR_DELAY&lt;/code&gt;, &lt;code&gt;MINIMUM_STEPPER_PULSE&lt;/code&gt;, &lt;code&gt;MAXIMUM_STEPPER_RATE&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Other driver-specific constants&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol start=&quot;4&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;EEPROM settings stored on the control board (use &lt;code&gt;M503&lt;/code&gt; to read current settings).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10944" LastActivityDate="2022-06-12T06:47:44.163" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19541" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-06-12T12:11:02.863" Score="1" ViewCount="2849" Body="&lt;p&gt;I printed a G1/8 thread in PLA where I can connect a compressor to have a small pressure container. Even though all measurements are correct and it screws in fine, it still leaks air.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a way to make 3D prints airtight?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="34449" LastActivityDate="2022-06-12T14:57:26.347" Title="Is there a way to make my 3D prints airtight?" Tags="|pla|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19542" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19541" CreationDate="2022-06-12T12:11:02.863" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The issue is, that there are small gaps between the layers. But you can coat the print in an airtight material. While epoxy and similar materials work very well, they are somewhat too viscous and take a long time to cure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My special recipe for coating PLA prints with a fast-curing airtight thin layer is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Dissolve 1 g Paraloid B-72 in 20 ml acetone.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Dip or otherwise evenly coat the print and dry at room temperature for 10-20 minutes.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="34449" LastEditorUserId="34449" LastEditDate="2022-06-12T14:57:26.347" LastActivityDate="2022-06-12T14:57:26.347" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19543" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19541" CreationDate="2022-06-12T13:06:29.740" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;In theory, yes you can without any additional materials. But it requires a very high level of perfection for your 3D printer's output.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&amp;quot;Gaps between layers&amp;quot; are not the issue. There is no &amp;quot;gap&amp;quot; between the extrusion at layer N and an identical-path extrusion at layer N+1 if layer N+1 is extruded correctly and remelts the surface of layer N sufficiently to bond everywhere. There are &lt;em&gt;grooves&lt;/em&gt; between layers from the extrusions not having perfectly rectangular cross-section and rather slighty rounded edges, but these are not &amp;quot;gaps&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Where gaps do come in to play is from inconsistent extrusion. If at any point the printer fails to resume extrusion where it's supposed to, or extrudes slightly less material than it's supposed to, there's a possibility that the complete remelt/bonding described above does not happen. It's also possible that grooves &lt;em&gt;turn into gaps&lt;/em&gt; under high pressure, by providing a surface where the pressure can act like a wedge to separate weakly-bonded layers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also involved here are issues with the filament quality. If the filament contains air pockets or has absorbed moisture, there will be tiny bubbles bursting in the extrusions, making a potential path for air to pass through.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have not succeeded in producing an air-tight container, especially not at high pressure, but I have made test containers for a vacuum that take several minutes to return to ambient atmospheric pressure after the pump is removed. This was using PLA with a non-high-temperature-capable hotend. I'm planning on revisiting this at some point with the temperature cranked way up (now with all-metal) with PLA and other materials to see if there's any practical viability to the theoretical possibility of getting it right.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Short of that, iblue's answer to use an airtight coating is a great option if you can deal with the dimensional changes or compensate for them in designing your parts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2022-06-12T13:06:29.740" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19544" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-06-12T13:09:27.177" Score="0" ViewCount="205" Body="&lt;p&gt;When printing an object on an FDM printer, is it easier to sand and fill thick layer lines than thin layer lines for low detail objects such as small plates for cosplay armor (Under 6 inches in size per print), in order to get a good finish?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PLA, Ender 5.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="29097" LastActivityDate="2022-06-12T19:51:04.923" Title="Are thick layer lines easier to sand and fill than thin layer lines for low detail objects" Tags="|layer-height|quality|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19545" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-06-12T13:17:40.707" Score="1" ViewCount="250" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most of the time I print PLA with my Anet ET4 (with Marlin firmware). Yesterday I again wanted to print with ABS and preheated nozzle (245 °C) and bed (80 °C). Everything worked fine for a few minutes, but suddenly I got an error:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thermal Runaway: Bed&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Printer Halted&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please Reset&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I reset the printer and after booting (Anet logo was shown), this thermal runaway error immediately popped up again. I then removed the NTC thermistors of the bed and also of the print head with no improvements.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I read that in this case, I should check the cables and the thermistors - but they are all good, the same problem despite replacing the cable.&#xA;I also do not understand why this error occurs immediately after booting.&#xA;Maybe could it be that a MOSFET on the board is defective?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope someone can help me with this problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gUeAl.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Failure screen&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gUeAl.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Failure screen&quot; title=&quot;Failure screen&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="34451" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2022-06-12T13:28:08.117" LastActivityDate="2022-06-12T13:28:08.117" Title="Anet ET4 - Thermal Runaway immediately after Boot" Tags="|thermal-runaway|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19546" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19532" CreationDate="2022-06-12T14:01:29.423" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;This is a bit of a non-answer, and I've posted it only because:&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;it was too long for a comment, and;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;to provide some info in order to save people having to pointlessly search for data that isn't actually available in the manual.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Apparently you aren't the only person with similar issues relating to understanding the meaning of the LEDs - Creality appear to be not very good at providing info about these LEDs... see this page on Reddit, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.reddit.com/r/ender6/comments/ulr3pw/ender_6_motherboard_lights/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Ender 6 motherboard lights&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.manualshelf.com/manual/creality/prcr-1011/instructions-english.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;user guide (on manualshelf.com)&lt;/a&gt; doesn't mention the LEDs at all. I flicked through all of it and the most useful page was &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.manualshelf.com/manual/creality/prcr-1011/instructions-english/page-29.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;page 29&lt;/a&gt; which showed the motherboard but (again) there was no mention of the LEDs:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ensUi.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Ender 6 controller board&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ensUi.png&quot; alt=&quot;Ender 6 controller board&quot; title=&quot;Ender 6 controller board&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For reference, the LEDs at located thusly:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;D2 is on the left hand side of the board to the left of the heatsink.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;D4 is on the right hand side, just behind the USB socket&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xDdHK.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Ender 6 controller board (annotated)&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xDdHK.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Ender 6 controller board (annotated)&quot; title=&quot;Ender 6 controller board (annotated)&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;FWIW, D2 seems to be red when powered on, as mentioned in &lt;a href=&quot;https://forum.creality.com/post/4518&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this post&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;https://forum.creality.com/post/4612&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this post&lt;/a&gt; on &lt;a href=&quot;https://forum.creality.com/topic/1469/my-creality-ender-6-is-stuck-at-the-boot-screen-with-the-white-status-bar?lang=en-US&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;My Creality Ender-6 is stuck at the boot screen with the white status bar&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may need to issue a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.creality.com/service-request&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;service request&lt;/a&gt;... if you do so, and get a response, please post an answer as it would probably be of benefit to others.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4762" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2022-06-12T19:00:32.950" LastActivityDate="2022-06-12T19:00:32.950" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19547" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-06-12T16:27:45.627" Score="1" ViewCount="1539" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a continuation of &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/19523/filament-not-being-extruded&quot;&gt;this question&lt;/a&gt; where comments and answers were extremely helpful in diagnosing the issue, which I am still unable to solve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I determined I have the problem shown in figure 3 on &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/15629/what-are-ways-to-avoid-heat-creep&quot;&gt;this question&lt;/a&gt;. How I confirmed that is I started a print and monitored it closely. As soon as the filament stopped coming out I paused the print and pulled out the filament - it looked like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OO4oZ.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Photo of filament with different sized diameter after being pulled from hotend&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OO4oZ.png&quot; alt=&quot;Photo of filament with different sized diameter after being pulled from hotend&quot; title=&quot;Photo of filament with different sized diameter after being pulled from hotend&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I snipped the expanded part off and re-inserted the filament back in, hit resume print and it continued printing normally, except it had skipped a layer or two.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I understand is there can be a few reasons for this problem:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Filament moving too fast and not being able to melt at the nozzle&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Too much heat in the radiator block causes the filament to soften up and unable to be pushed by the incoming filament.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To combat case 1 I reduced the speed of the print using the knob down to 80 % which already felt like it is too slow, but that didn't seem to make a difference. I also tried printing at speeds of 85 %, 90 %, and 95 % as well and the problem occurred in all of them. So this leads me to believe that speed is probably not the issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I read that there could also be another thing causing case 1 and that is over-extrusion. To verify this I did the 100 mm extrusion test where I marked 0 mm and 100 mm and extruded 100 mm manually in steps of 0.1 mm. It took a while but eventually in the end I determined that it is under-extruding at 95 mm actual filament extruded which means there is less filament being pushed which should actually be working against the jam. I pulled the filament out after the test to see what it looks like and this was it:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bCDQp.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Photo of filament with significantly different sized diameter&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bCDQp.png&quot; alt=&quot;Photo of filament with significantly different sized diameter&quot; title=&quot;Photo of filament with significantly different sized diameter&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Nevertheless, I adjusted my E-steps from 93 to 99 and repeated the 100 mm test again which this time was about 1 mm off (99 mm actual filament extruded) but I guess my markings could be off too so it should be good enough. I again checked the filament and it still had an expansion on the end.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At this point, I'm assuming that there is no issue with my extruder and print speed, so I'm on to case 2.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried printing at 180 °C but that had no effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also tried printing without heating the bed as I read that could affect the cooling of the radiator as the fan will be blowing hot air, but that also didn't help and the filament seized.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I took the fan cover off and set the nozzle to 200 °C. After a few minutes, I measured the surface temperatures on the cooling block/radiator using a multimeter which showed 47 °C on the top-most fin and 65 °C on the bottom-most. I also tried reducing the nozzle to 180 °C and took measurements again which were pretty much the same with about a degree or 2 off. Ok so maybe something is fishy here because in &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/ItJTrTX6HJw?t=308&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this video&lt;/a&gt; you can see the temperatures he's reading are in the 35-40s range.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just to confirm this was the problem I took quite a large home fan and directed it such that the stream is hitting the radiator from about 5 cm (this is while the hot end fan is not mounted with the screws but hanging on the side, which was also blowing at the radiator). I waited a couple of minutes and measured the temperatures again which this time showed 35 °C on the top and 50 °C on the bottom. That was as low as I could get it and the house fan was pretty strong. I extruded another 100 mm manually and this is what the filament looked like afterward:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/g12ZN.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Photo of filament with a blob of filament a the end after being pulled from the hotend&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/g12ZN.png&quot; alt=&quot;Photo of filament with a blob of filament a the end after being pulled from the hotend&quot; title=&quot;Photo of filament with a blob of filament a the end after being pulled from the hotend&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It still had a blob on the end and I'm pretty confident given more time it would clog up again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Honestly, at this point, I feel like I've put way too much time and effort into resolving this issue and that is frustrating me as I fail to see any results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm even more confused by the fact that I have had a couple of 3h prints go flawless, then out of the blue, it starts doing this problem. Sometimes it doesn't happen, sometimes it happens 3-5 times per print. I had an 8h print which went very well until the last 30 min when it clogged, thankfully I was around and I did the snipping procedure so the print finished but it is visible where it skipped a bunch of layers and has a weak spot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is quite annoying to have to babysit the printer like that and I'm really reaching out to anyone who'd be able to help me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="34389" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2022-06-12T17:46:10.297" LastActivityDate="2022-06-13T12:59:45.423" Title="Filament end expanding and seizing" Tags="|creality-ender-3|filament|extrusion|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19548" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19547" CreationDate="2022-06-12T16:50:39.557" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is classic heat creep. What's happening is that you're getting softened material up inside the 2.0-mm-inner-diameter PTFE tube, and then, because it's soft, some of the extruding force causes it to deform and expand outward rather than go through the nozzle, because that's the path of lesser resistance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, where is the heat creep coming from? In my experience it's not common on an Ender 3, but there are at least 3 fairly likely possibilities:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Ambient temperature in your printing space is sufficiently high (perhaps driven by bed temperature if the space is somewhat enclosed) to make the hotend cooling fan insufficient.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Hotend cooling fan is damaged or wearing out and running at severely decreased flow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Your retraction length is way too long, and on each retraction, you're pulling up molten, or at least softened, material into the PTFE tube, then squeezing it as soon as you unretract.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's possible to be a combination of these things. For example if your retraction length is too long, things might go okay until the air warms up from printing, then eventually get to a point where the added ambient warmth keeps the material soft just long enough for it to jam.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some things that could help:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Make sure you printing space is well-ventilated and air conditioned if ambient temperature is warm (I'd say over 26°C is bad for printing PLA). If you can't do that, run a desk fan pointed at the printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Try lowering your retraction length, especially if it's over 6 mm now, but be sure to perform retraction tests (stringing tests) to make sure it's still sufficient.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Use faster travel speed/acceleration and faster retract/unretract so that you're not giving time for heat to transfer from the retracted filament into the cold side during travel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given the temperatures you measured, though, I wouldn't be surprised though if you have a bad fan that needs replacement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2022-06-12T16:50:39.557" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19549" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19544" CreationDate="2022-06-12T19:51:04.923" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;No. The outside of the layer has a round cross section, so the higher the layer, the larger the semi circle cross section and the deeper the valley is between layers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fine layers take forever to print large objects though, so for making costume parts I would go max layer height. To get a good painted finish you don’t need to sand to the bottom of the valleys though. Sand the high spots so about 50% of the layer edge is flat, then use automotive “high build primer”. Paint it on thick and don’t worry about runs. The high build makes the paint fill in the valleys. Sand it again, down to when it’s smooth, or when you’ve exposed the plastic of the high parts of the layers. Can do it again if it’s still bumpy. Then regular primer (recommend same brand/line as the high build for chemical compatibility), light sand, and paint. If you sand with fine grit between layers of paint you can get a very impressive finish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The key ingredient for nice paint is the high build primer, it is a great companion for FDM printers. They generally have it at the auto parts store, rather than the hardware store.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27077" LastActivityDate="2022-06-12T19:51:04.923" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19550" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19547" CreationDate="2022-06-13T02:29:25.797" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Try another filament. I have this happen with bad filament. Baking it helps, but not always and it reverts to bad filament pretty quickly after baking. So my last attempt printed fine after baking then started having this intermittent issue on the third print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd try changing filament before blaming the printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31811" LastActivityDate="2022-06-13T02:29:25.797" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19551" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19556" CreationDate="2022-06-13T03:06:18.897" Score="1" ViewCount="169" Body="&lt;p&gt;The printer is a Prusa I3.  I'm running it directly from a PC with Repetier 2.2.4.  Repetier has a soft Emergency&#xA;Stop but that requires grabbing the mouse and getting the pointer to the hot spot on the screen. I'd be more comfortable with a physical button.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If all else fails I can rig a panic button to connect a 30 ohm resistor between hot and ground downstream of the GFI, causing it to trip. That seems a bit extreme. Also not sure if the capacitors in the power supply might keep a motor going for another few steps after the mains power goes away.  Interrupting the stepper motor power just ahead of the motor drivers seems like the optimal way to go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="33030" LastEditorUserId="33030" LastEditDate="2022-06-13T11:50:10.237" LastActivityDate="2022-06-13T19:16:30.360" Title="Where/how can I connect a physical Emergency Stop panic button directly to a RAMPS 1.4 board to quickly stop all stepper movement?" Tags="|ramps-1.4|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19552" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19547" CreationDate="2022-06-13T12:59:45.423" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Another way to approach this problem is to increase the temperature of the hot end and increase the temperature gradient of the heat sink (better heat sink cooling).  One can increase the air flow of the heat sink fan or run fans to increase air flow around the printing bed and hot end, so that the air is cooler circulating through the heat sink.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's an overall approach: &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/15629/what-are-ways-to-avoid-heat-creep&quot;&gt;What are ways to avoid heat creep?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15075" LastActivityDate="2022-06-13T12:59:45.423" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19553" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-06-13T14:31:38.783" Score="1" ViewCount="387" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am trying to create a two-piece snap-fit or joint using a 3D printer (Resin). After that, I plan to coat the joint with a conductive spray and create an electrical connection when the two pieces are joined together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Has this been done before? Are certain types of joint mechanism recommended?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I will probably use carbon spray because it is cheaper than others. However, after the spray dries it can start to flake and thin, so I might need a couple of rounds of coating or something else. Any tips are appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, more importantly is the joint mechanism - this is what I had in mind:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6t3Ef.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Plastic ball joint example&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6t3Ef.png&quot; alt=&quot;Plastic ball joint example&quot; title=&quot;Plastic ball joint example&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The signal would be a DC current only, in the µA range and the targeted resistance would be less than 20 Ω.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can this work? If not, what are my alternatives?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="32948" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2022-06-13T18:09:04.727" LastActivityDate="2022-06-15T11:59:53.317" Title="Can you 3D print an electrical connection" Tags="|3d-models|3d-design|resin|electronics|carbon|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19554" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19553" CreationDate="2022-06-13T15:54:30.937" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.instructables.com/Copper-Electroforming-on-3d-Printed-PLAABS-Objects/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Electroforming&lt;/a&gt; is the process of applying a conductive paint to a non-conductive surface. Once dry, the object is subjected to a process similar to electroplating, in that molecules of a conductive, more durable metal are bonded to the conductive paint, which is bonded to the 3D printed part.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Typical metals would be nickel, which is quite conductive, as well as copper, known for conductivity. One could be somewhat absurd and perform the same process with silver and gold. The absurdity is related to the expense of those materials.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The link covers using copper, but I believe that nickel would be more durable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your joint selection is more related to the strength of the design and contact surface area and may be better suited for a more detailed separate question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ypefi.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ypefi.png&quot; alt=&quot;electroformed 3d printed calibration cube&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;As usual, image from linked site.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastActivityDate="2022-06-13T15:54:30.937" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19556" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19551" CreationDate="2022-06-13T18:23:03.893" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just pull the main power on the machine if it bombs and goes haywire. It isn’t a computer that needs a soft shutdown.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only thing you want to do is turn it back on quickly so the hotend fan goes back on and you don’t get heat creep with filament melting and then solidifying in the heat break.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Disconnecting motor power isn’t great, because the reason you are hitting the panic button is probably because the machine bombed is trying to wreck itself, in which case the processor needs to be reset. Could make a DC disconnect between the power supply and main board, but it should stay off for a few seconds for the caps to drain, so if it’s a momentary switch all users would have to know to hold it down for a spell. If it is an on/off switch you have a possible source of confusion, why the printer isn’t turning on, because now there are two power switches, and you wouldn’t want to use it as a general use power switch because the power supply would be left on all the time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One alternative would be a reset button on the processor, if there is a breakout for that pin or a tact switch on the pcb you could wire a big, official momentary switch (normally open type) in parallel with. I would suggest some kind of shroud so it doesn’t get bumped accidentally.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27077" LastEditorUserId="27077" LastEditDate="2022-06-13T19:16:30.360" LastActivityDate="2022-06-13T19:16:30.360" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19557" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19553" CreationDate="2022-06-14T12:36:25.823" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;For your task you basically have several options:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Electroforming&lt;/strong&gt; (see @fred_dot_u answer). Pros: high electrical conductivity due to actual metal layer; very low friction between polished metal layers. Cons: the process is quite dirty and requires additional materials and processing, plus some skill to produce results of appropriate quality.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Conductive filament&lt;/strong&gt; (e.h. &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.makerbot.com/3d-printers/materials/method-pla/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;PLA from Makerbot&lt;/a&gt;). Pros: direct printing of any form. Cons: high price, probably tricky to print with, high current resistance.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Sliding electrical connections&lt;/strong&gt; (e.g. as in brushed motors or magnetic USB charging cables). Pros: when properly executed will be very durable and probably could even reuse parts from existing markets (brushed motors use this trick for very long time). Cons: requires additional engineering and redesign of your existing parts.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Wireless connection&lt;/strong&gt; (e.g. parts use radio/Bluetooth/WiFi for communicating). Pros: independent functionality of each 'limb'. Cons: independent power sources required for each limb; complex communication means.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Optical signalling&lt;/strong&gt;. Pros: no electrical connections; depending on your use-case might fall in-between &lt;em&gt;wireless connection&lt;/em&gt; (without the need of additional power source) and &lt;em&gt;sliding/magnetic connections&lt;/em&gt;. Cons: requires skills and tools to work with fiberoptics, which is totally different story.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on your resources, requirements, skills and time you would chose one of above. You may also find some alternative solutions from engineering world.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10944" LastEditorUserId="10944" LastEditDate="2022-06-15T11:59:53.317" LastActivityDate="2022-06-15T11:59:53.317" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19558" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-06-15T12:49:45.613" Score="2" ViewCount="4649" Body="&lt;p&gt;The object on the right is a basic C channel, the outer surface should be smooth but the first ~5 mm of filament is missing after every layer change. In this example, the missing filament is reasonably consistent and extreme. The object on the left (from the same print) has a seam where the filament is also missing but it was not a layer change so it is only missing 1-2 mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mepw9.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mepw9.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But when printing a benchy the gap is not as large and has different lengths. The other side of the Benchy looks great, this side has all of the seams on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5UIwH.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5UIwH.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Details&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Anet A6 direct drive&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Marlin firmware with the latest Octoprint&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Heated enclosure, glass bed @ 60 °C&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;eSun PLA, have used many cheaper brands all with the same issue&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Printing at 210 °C but have tested 180-220 °C&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When printing an army of Benchys, I thought this was a retraction issue and test all sorts of settings with small increments but did not fix the issue. It was after printing this C channel that the issue was more clearly highlighted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Things that I have attempted to resolve this&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Geomerty calerbration&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Extruder calerbration&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Filament temperature range tests&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Retraction distance and speed towers&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Retraction distance and temperature towers&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Disabling retraction (worth a short) - Disabling retraction during only Z hop (did nothing)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Different version of Cura&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Different filament brands&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can not seem to figure out what the issue here is and have run out of ideas on what to do next.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21871" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2022-06-29T07:15:22.517" LastActivityDate="2022-06-30T08:37:21.717" Title="Missing filament at Z seam" Tags="|underextrusion|anet-a6|retraction|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19559" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19562" CreationDate="2022-06-15T15:11:28.510" Score="2" ViewCount="826" Body="&lt;p&gt;How can I replace the line in the time display with a dot? Using Marlin 2.1&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9RZdk.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Photo of LCD display of a 3D printer with the time circled&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9RZdk.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Photo of LCD display of a 3D printer with the time circled&quot; title=&quot;Photo of LCD display of a 3D printer with the time circled&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="34479" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2022-06-18T13:52:09.717" LastActivityDate="2022-06-18T13:52:09.717" Title="How to change the time format on LCD screen in Marlin 2.1?" Tags="|marlin|firmware|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19560" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="975" CreationDate="2022-06-15T20:39:27.433" Score="3" Body="&lt;h2&gt;No &amp;quot;mystery meat&amp;quot; wire in AC electrical&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That kit is random Chinese &amp;quot;no-name&amp;quot; hookup wire and cannot be used for AC power. It's fine for low voltage hobbyist tinkering, which is what it's sold for.  If it was better than that, &lt;em&gt;they'd say&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;But who knows?&lt;/strong&gt; Maybe the boat didn't arrive and they needed some 12 AWG to finish some kits, so they ran to the electrical supply and bought bona-fide Southwire THHN.  If so, the wire would be &lt;a href=&quot;https://diy.stackexchange.com/questions/78847/how-do-i-read-the-markings-printed-on-the-outside-of-electric-wires&quot;&gt;labeled&lt;/a&gt; &amp;quot;UL Listed&amp;quot; and &amp;quot;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.wireandcableyourway.com/blog/what-is-the-difference-between-thhn-vs-thwn-wire/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;THHN/THWN-2&lt;/a&gt;&amp;quot;. Then you can use it for AC power.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Without &amp;quot;UL Listed&amp;quot; or &amp;quot;UR Recognized&amp;quot; or other mark from a credible NRTL, any other labeling is lies.  &lt;em&gt;CE is not an NRTL&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Proper THHN/THWN-2 is available locally, dirt cheap.&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Competent&lt;/em&gt; hardware stores and lumberyards will cheerfully sell it by the foot. So like 6 feet for a dollar-ish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(However they are often not located in strip malls, so some may need to rethink their shopping mindset if they want value).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any good tinkerer/hacker ought to know the location of every good family-owned hardware store, real lumberyard, and electrical supply houses, bonus points for HVAC supply.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;TW, THW and THWN-2 are NOT &amp;quot;good, better, best&amp;quot;.&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More like the Ford Edsel, Thunderbird and Escape: &amp;quot;obsolete, obsolete, and currently sold product&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why not keep making TW, THW and THWN? No money savings there. It would cost more to keep 4 separate production lines than to just make everything &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.wireandcableyourway.com/blog/what-is-the-difference-between-thhn-vs-thwn-wire/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;em&gt;dual-rated&lt;/em&gt; THHN/THWN-2&lt;/a&gt;.  So that's what they do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;it would lead me to believe that the cheapest grade of insulation was used; as I understand it, the TW type wire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No, wiring doesn't work that way. You can't even assume it's a &amp;quot;T&amp;quot; family - there are also &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.multicominc.com/training/technical-resources/thhn-vs-xhhw-difference/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;XHHW&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.multicominc.com/training/technical-resources/rhh-rhw-2-use-2-and-rhh-building-wire-explained/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;RHH/RHW&lt;/a&gt; and the &amp;quot;S&amp;quot; family cordage, just in NEC Chapter 3 wiring methods.  And many other families &lt;strong&gt;not approved&lt;/strong&gt; for AC power.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately, the 400 ft. Wire Storehouse does not provide any information in regards to the insulation type or quality and this makes it difficult for one to choose the correct wire based on the specification in the table.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Doesn't matter what the ad copy says, it matters what the markings on the wire say. &lt;strong&gt;Wire that is &lt;a href=&quot;https://diy.stackexchange.com/questions/78847/how-do-i-read-the-markings-printed-on-the-outside-of-electric-wires&quot;&gt;unmarked&lt;/a&gt; is &lt;em&gt;literally nothing&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wire manufacturers know this.  Chinese wire manufacturers don't care.  But that Harbor Freight pack never claimed to be anything else, did it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19011" LastEditorUserId="19011" LastEditDate="2022-06-15T20:47:52.983" LastActivityDate="2022-06-15T20:47:52.983" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19561" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19558" CreationDate="2022-06-15T21:44:16.923" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Several things to try:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Dry your filament. Wet filament can have trouble resuming after retract due to moisture absorbing all the heat and slowing the melt, and can also drastically increase internal oozing, leading to missing material later.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Adjust Cura settng &amp;quot;Max comb distance with no retract&amp;quot;: set very low, around 1mm. Having this at the default (unlimited) causes serious oozing inside the model leading to missing material on the next extrusion path. You'll want to turn on &amp;quot;Connect infill lines&amp;quot; when changing this or you'll introduce &lt;strong&gt;a lot&lt;/strong&gt; of extra retractions that will make your prints very slow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If using Linear Advance make sure it's not set too high. Some users get carried away calibrating it for pretty corners, but if you go too high, you'll end up with serious underextrusion wherever the toolpath slows down. It needs to be set as close to perfect as possible, erring on the side of a lower K value rather than a higher one if unsure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If your printer has a Bowden extruder system (&lt;strike&gt;I believe yours does&lt;/strike&gt; not relevant to OP's printer), check that all the tube fittings are holding the tube snug and that it does not move in/out on retract/unretract. If there's play in the tube, this can make retraction and unretraction ineffective, causing all sorts of artifacts that can be similar to those of having bad retraction settings, but that can't be fixed by changing settings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastEditorUserId="11157" LastEditDate="2022-06-17T15:12:47.047" LastActivityDate="2022-06-17T15:12:47.047" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19562" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19559" CreationDate="2022-06-17T07:06:16.797" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The apostrophe or single quote character is officially used to indicate minutes, if there are two, this indicates seconds (but, in the image from the question, the double quote cannot be seen).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Replacing the single quote for a decimal isn't a good idea to display the time as the following number is in seconds, not a fraction of a minute.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Either way, the remaining time is converted from a number into a human readable format by the &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/blob/0a3c42a87c24ff3b5b184f211d5b2549083b61a5/Marlin/src/libs/duration_t.h#L156&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;toDigital()&lt;/a&gt; function of the &lt;code&gt;duration_t.h&lt;/code&gt; file (referring to the Marlin 2.1 bugfix branch). Even with little programming skills if is easy to find where and what you want to change ( hint, see comment: &lt;code&gt;// 12'34&lt;/code&gt;), the function is quoted for reference below:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;uint8_t toDigital(char *buffer, bool with_days=false) const {&#xA;    const uint16_t h = uint16_t(this-&amp;gt;hour()),&#xA;                   m = uint16_t(this-&amp;gt;minute() % 60UL);&#xA;    if (with_days) {&#xA;      const uint16_t d = this-&amp;gt;day();&#xA;      sprintf_P(buffer, PSTR(&amp;quot;%hud %02hu:%02hu&amp;quot;), d, h % 24, m);  // 1d 23:45&#xA;      return d &amp;gt;= 10 ? 9 : 8;&#xA;    }&#xA;    else if (!h) {&#xA;      const uint16_t s = uint16_t(this-&amp;gt;second() % 60UL);&#xA;      sprintf_P(buffer, PSTR(&amp;quot;%02hu'%02hu&amp;quot;), m, s);     // 12'34&#xA;      return 5;&#xA;    }&#xA;    else if (h &amp;lt; 100) {&#xA;      sprintf_P(buffer, PSTR(&amp;quot;%02hu:%02hu&amp;quot;), h, m);     // 12:34&#xA;      return 5;&#xA;    }&#xA;    else {&#xA;      sprintf_P(buffer, PSTR(&amp;quot;%hu:%02hu&amp;quot;), h, m);       // 123:45&#xA;      return 6;&#xA;    }&#xA;  }&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2022-06-18T13:43:53.043" LastActivityDate="2022-06-18T13:43:53.043" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19565" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-06-17T20:16:02.227" Score="5" ViewCount="1749" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an &lt;a href=&quot;https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GD8LCFO/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;psc=1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;all-metal V6 hotend clone&lt;/a&gt; that has worked in the past, but recently will clog very easily.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've tried the following to address it:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Clean/replace the nozzle (0.4 or 0.5 mm, nozzle is hot-tightened)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ensure nozzle is tightened against the heat-break tube, not the heater block&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Adjust nozzle temperature higher/lower (190 °C to 230°C)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Recalibrate extruder steps/mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Improve cold-end cooling with a 40mm fan (also, a 40 mm blower directly aimed at the fins did not help)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Try different filaments, from different brands (all 1.75 mm PLA)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Adjust slicer settings (speed, line width, layer thickness is usually ~0.2 mm) and even tried different slicers&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Reduce/eliminate retractions&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Replaced stock Ender 5 Bowden extruder with dual-gear setup for higher grip&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Replaced the thermistor (wire was getting worn from disassembling/reassembling)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some things I've noticed:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Prints tend to work fine for a while (~30 min to 1 hour or so), then the extruder is suddenly unable to push filament through the Bowden tube and begins to grind/click. There is very little to no period of reduced flow. It simply stops flowing completely.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I am unable to push the filament through by hand to clear the clog, but pulling the filament out and trimming the end works&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The very end of the filament is the only place with any signs of being molten, well within the nozzle length itself&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pushing and pulling the filament in the hot-end by hand works for very small retractions, but can instantly result in a clog if pulled too far back (a few mm)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;So far I have not seen particles / black buildup / other gunk that would explain the clogs&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Letting the filament sit in the hot-end for a few seconds is enough to make it much harder to extrude by hand until enough filament is pushed through to clear what's melted (sitting too long will make it clog), but there are still no signs of heat-creep beyond the nozzle length.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I can always easily pull the filament out by hand after it jams (while still hot)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Examples of what the filament end looked like when a clog formed:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4g6yC.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Filament 1&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4g6yC.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;filament1&quot; title=&quot;Filament 1&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DXiBb.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Filament 4&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DXiBb.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;filament4&quot; title=&quot;Filament 4&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since the melted material is so short I don't think it's heat-creep. Maybe it's the (very cheap) nozzles themselves having inconsistent dimensions? Not being able to retract a few mm and re-extrude by hand seems pretty odd. I have ordered official E3D nozzles to try in case they are the culprit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any thoughts on what else it could be?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit&lt;/strong&gt;: I had commented with the new nozzle being a solution, but unfortunately I spoke too soon. Using the E3D nozzle helped for prints that maintain a high enough flow-rate, but when printing small parts and/or multiple parts it seems that the flow rate becomes low enough to overheat the filament and clog (even with reduced print temp to 190 °C).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update&lt;/strong&gt;: While using the new nozzle and improving cold-end cooling with a blower aimed directly at the cold-end fins did help delay the clogging a little, it did not prevent it. It seems unrealistic to say that this is traditional heat-creep since the fins were cold to the touch and the length of deformed, clogged filament is even shorter than before (&amp;lt;5 mm).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="34495" LastEditorUserId="34495" LastEditDate="2022-06-23T19:58:28.423" LastActivityDate="2022-09-03T17:04:05.397" Title="Clogging from heat creep, but only in the nozzle itself?" Tags="|extruder|creality-ender-5|e3d-v6|all-metal-hotend|filament-jam|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19566" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19450" CreationDate="2022-06-18T05:10:54.677" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm fairly certain I have solved this issue, and it ended up having nothing to do with the printer and everything to do with what it was plugged into!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had it on a smart outlet with some automations set up to kill the power if there was ever a fire. Unfortunately, the outlet I was using was only rated for 8A, while the Ender 3 Pro can draw up to 15 amps. When it was unable to draw more than 8A to heat the hotend, this likely caused the printer to think there was a problem, triggering the thermal runaway failsafe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After moving it to an outlet with a higher amperage rating, I have had no more issues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="34115" LastActivityDate="2022-06-18T05:10:54.677" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19567" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19507" CreationDate="2022-06-19T07:52:06.343" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I haven't run into this kind of issue, but I've found some tips that might help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;HAVE SOME PATIENCE&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You have waited several hours for the print, but you have to wait a little more until the model is completely cool. After some cooling, the model may come off by itself. As the plastic cools, it hardens, losing the tackiness needed for the layers to adhere.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;CLEAN THE PLATFORM&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This may not help with current printing, but if your platform is clogged with old adhesive, then it's probably time to clean it out. Future prints may not adhere as firmly. If the print is still stuck, run &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.craftyhangouts.com/best-3d-printer-for-beginners/#product3&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;it&lt;/a&gt; under a stream of hot (not boiling) water and carefully use a spatula to remove any adhesive on the surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After printing, make sure the platform is clean and inspect the surface of the steel. If there are indentations, turn the glass over and use the smooth side. If both sides show signs of pitting, replace the glass.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;PUT IT INTO THE OVEN&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are times when hot water doesn't help if you have a glass or other heat-resistant surface with no plastic or electronics and you can take it off the printer, and put it in the oven. Set the temperature to 100º and then use a spatula to see if you can remove the model. If it does not work, increase the temperature to 120º, leave for five minutes and try again. Raise the temperature until you remove the model.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;DO NOT USE CHEAP PLASTIC&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In many cases, cheap plastic is a false economy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;MAKE SOME HOLES&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By creating several holes in the surface of the print base, you can avoid sticking caused by too much surface contact.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope these tips help you :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="34452" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2022-06-19T08:14:34.350" LastActivityDate="2022-06-19T08:14:34.350" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19568" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19579" CreationDate="2022-06-19T12:29:22.180" Score="1" ViewCount="1920" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have this .stl that I downloaded and I need to create a solid of this 3D. However, if I click &amp;quot;Make solid&amp;quot;, it doesn't work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I do? I think the problem is the black layer but I don't know how to resolve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Before make solid:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/s9eI2.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Screenshot of Meshmixer - before make solid&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/s9eI2.png&quot; alt=&quot;Screenshot of Meshmixer - before make solid&quot; title=&quot;Screenshot of Meshmixer - before make solid&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After make solid:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fvygD.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Screenshot of Meshmixer - after make solid&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fvygD.png&quot; alt=&quot;Screenshot of Meshmixer - after make solid&quot; title=&quot;Screenshot of Meshmixer - after make solid&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I need to make solid and the black layer is deleted when I do it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://drive.google.com/file/d/1g-YaF1k_X5FU1Y-SgWiGCXC4k_nADohk/view?usp=sharing&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://drive.google.com/file/d/1g-YaF1k_X5FU1Y-SgWiGCXC4k_nADohk/view?usp=sharing&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PS: The other object are different item, so if they are there or not is the same&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="33490" LastEditorUserId="33490" LastEditDate="2022-06-22T07:01:40.937" LastActivityDate="2022-06-22T14:08:40.310" Title="Meshmixer create solid" Tags="|3d-models|3d-design|meshmixer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19569" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-06-19T21:52:37.300" Score="1" ViewCount="216" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to replace a NEMA 17 stepper motor for my FLSun SR (it clicks and the rotor eventually slides forward, causing it to offset layers). How do I find the specs for this motor?  They aren't listed on FLSun's website and I tried their contact us form.  The back of the motor has this written on it:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;FLSUN STEP MOTOR&lt;br/&gt;&#xA;42BYGH718-B-28Q&lt;br/&gt;&#xA;LOT NO.210711&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The total length of the motor is 47 mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13709" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2023-12-03T15:21:40.817" LastActivityDate="2023-12-03T15:21:40.817" Title="Where do I find the specifications of the FLSUN 42BYGH stepper motor?" Tags="|stepper|replacement-parts|flsun|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19571" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-06-20T16:02:14.127" Score="1" ViewCount="743" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ender 3 Pro with Creality 4.2.7 board. Just flashed Marlin 2.1.&#xA;Enabled POWER_LOSS_RECOVERY&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Problem: The printer will successfully go through auto leveling and the clean/prep line on the left side. When the line finished I see the LCD rebooting. If I disable Power Loss Recovery in the menu it will start the print without any issue. Already tried reflashing but no luck. Any idea how I can print with Power Loss Recovery enabled?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="34525" LastEditorUserId="34525" LastEditDate="2022-06-20T18:09:50.833" LastActivityDate="2022-07-14T22:30:06.283" Title="Marlin 2.1 reboots before printing model when power recovery is enabled" Tags="|creality-ender-3|marlin|firmware|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19573" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13523" CreationDate="2022-06-21T08:10:08.513" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Check the plate and be sure that it is level. Also, you need to check that your model is level.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem will be in the settings if everything is level.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="34515" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2022-06-21T13:05:50.917" LastActivityDate="2022-06-21T13:05:50.917" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19575" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-06-21T15:47:44.627" Score="0" ViewCount="43" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am using an Ender-4 with MKS Marlin Firmware and an MKS Rovin V3 Motherboard. It took me a long time to get Marlin set up correctly, but now I am apparently on the way. I calibrated the bed and to test it I went to print the cube_XYZ, I noticed that the bed didn't go down during the print, even though the display was showing that the Z was increasing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has anyone experienced this situation and/or can give me some advice?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="34534" LastEditorUserId="34534" LastEditDate="2022-06-21T15:48:22.683" LastActivityDate="2022-06-21T15:48:22.683" Title="The bed of my Ender-4 does not go down during printing!" Tags="|marlin|z-axis|bed|creality-ender-4|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19577" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-06-22T02:09:19.957" Score="1" ViewCount="3465" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just acquired a new Creality Ender 5 Pro. It was assembled very easily. Today I tried my first print - the Dog demo that came on the MicroSD just to see how it worked. It is a 2.5 hour print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While I was preheating there was a thermal runaway error while I was feeding the filament up through the tube. I restarted the machine and began the print. The error repeated 6 more times during the print. Each time I reset the machine by cycling the power (there were no instructions for a reset) and I was able to resume the printing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have been sitting here while this thing goes so as to be able to restart if necessary. It will be a real drag when I try to print anything larger. I feel as though I cannot leave the machine alone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bed seems to hold steady at 45 °C. The nozzle is set to 200 °C (the default on the display) for PLA. It seems to lag a bit sometimes going as low as 196 °C. I suspect this is normal as it is being fed cold filament. When I restart almost immediately, the nozzle starts with a temp of about 140 °C and takes a few minutes to get hot enough to resume the print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is going on?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="34536" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2022-06-22T02:43:07.047" LastActivityDate="2022-06-24T06:53:12.790" Title="What is causing the thermal runaway error E1?" Tags="|creality-ender-5|thermal-runaway|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ClosedDate="2022-06-24T20:53:22.543" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19579" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19568" CreationDate="2022-06-22T10:25:32.737" Score="1" Body="&lt;h1&gt;Make solid requires an enclosed volume&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To run the make solid operation, the selected parts need to enclose a volume. In case the volume is not fully enclosed, the program tries to solve a solution that closes the open surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The black layer is most likely failing to compute because its normals are flipped. This means it does not enclose a surface, it excludes anything between the surfaces from being inside the body defined by it - it is &lt;strong&gt;everything but&lt;/strong&gt;. This is solved as &amp;quot;this surface does not enclose anything, so I cut it out&amp;quot; but for where it creates a valid solution in the area of the white surface before the operation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This leaves you with the white retained part after the operation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;To fix this is an in-depth project&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fixing such errors is quite involved. You will need to do the following steps, depending on your program to alter:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;flip the surfaces so that it shows outside&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;make sure that the body is closed, possibly by adding missing surfaces&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2022-06-22T14:08:40.310" LastActivityDate="2022-06-22T14:08:40.310" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19580" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16281" CreationDate="2022-06-22T10:35:25.023" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The model clearly contains an enclosed surface, which is directed to the inside - in other words, it was modeled to contain a volume of air.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Those surfaces need to be removed to print the body solid. To do this, you could check if those surfaces constitute a separate shell for meshmixer. If yes, you can just go, run separate shells, remove those internal items, and then re-merge all other shells. Slicing that should result in the voids being filled.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If however the shell is meant to exist, then it should instead simply get its normals inverted. This is best done with modeling software such as blender. Some steps you need can be seen &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/15881/8884&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastActivityDate="2022-06-22T10:35:25.023" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19581" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16643" CreationDate="2022-06-22T10:39:12.963" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The surfaces are clearly ill defined - it shows the top surface as a bottom one (those are marked red), and so the normals of that surface are pointing to the wrong direction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastActivityDate="2022-06-22T10:39:12.963" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19582" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-06-22T14:31:25.020" Score="3" ViewCount="1150" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is a message on my Ender 6 that is telling my that my heating failed. This happened last night in the middle of a print. I have cycled the power like the screen says but the nozzle does not heat up. The print bed heats up just fine. The nozzle stopped heating and just randomly started cooling, leading to a load of filament unable to go through the feeder. The printer has been just fine for the past year in a closet. I have changed rooms and tested again to no avail, so I believe it is not an ambient issue. I would appreciate any advice or solutions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="34542" LastActivityDate="2024-03-15T07:57:13.733" Title="Creality Ender 6 Heating Failed" Tags="|troubleshooting|nozzle|heat-management|creality|creality-ender-6|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19583" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19582" CreationDate="2022-06-22T14:48:40.750" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If heating of the hot end fails, this is usually caused by the thermistor or the heating cartridge. You need to check the cables of these two or replace them altogether. It is advisable to keep spare heater cartridges and thermistors; these are very affordable parts to have in your inventory.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once the thermistor doesn't register a temperature increase while the heater is on, a &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/8466/what-is-thermal-runaway-protection&quot;&gt;thermal runaway error&lt;/a&gt; should trigger the printer to stop to protect itself and you. That is, if the printer has this functionality enabled in the firmware. By removing the thermistor from the hotend and heating up the hotend you can test whether thermal runaway protection is enabled.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the hotend drops in temperature, e.g. by a mispositioned cooling fan, the heater element should be commanded to heat up, if this doesn't happen, the protection should kick in as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a message on my Ender 6 that is telling my that my heating failed&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This means that the thermal protection is enabled and did its job! You now need to sort out what caused the protection to kick in, a faulty thermistor or a faulty heater cartridge (or even worse, a faulty controller board e.g. burned connectors); cables could be broken or are not properly seated in the controller board connectors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2024-03-15T07:57:13.733" LastActivityDate="2024-03-15T07:57:13.733" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19584" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19577" CreationDate="2022-06-23T03:14:31.367" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Possible reasons for the error:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Temperature sensor does not connect well;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wrong working (mains) voltage, and;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bed soldering.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="34312" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2022-06-24T06:50:51.907" LastActivityDate="2022-06-24T06:50:51.907" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19585" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-06-23T04:55:06.090" Score="1" ViewCount="801" Body="&lt;p&gt;It has been suggested that I measure the resistance of the nozzle heater on my printer since I've had some thermal runaway errors. The machine is brand new. I have done so by connecting my multimeter across the two pins on the connector. I get a value of 14.5 Ohms. Is this a reasonable value?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="34536" LastActivityDate="2022-06-23T07:15:32.390" Title="What is the acceptable resistance of a functioning heater cartridge on my Creality Ender-5 Pro printer?" Tags="|creality-ender-5|thermal-runaway|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19586" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19585" CreationDate="2022-06-23T07:15:32.390" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your printer uses a 24 V power supply, this implies that the peripherals also need to be for this voltage. Therefor a 24 V heater cartridge is needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From &lt;a href=&quot;/a/9951/&quot;&gt;this answer&lt;/a&gt; on question &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/9947/heater-cartridge-with-7-2-ohms-12-or-24-v&quot;&gt;Heater cartridge with 7.2 ohms - 12 or 24 V?&lt;/a&gt; gives you the answer:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;e3D Heater Cartridges are documented to be around 4.8 Ω for 12 V &amp;amp; 30 W, 3.6 Ω for 12 V &amp;amp; 40 W, 19.2 Ω for 24 V 30 W and 14.4 Ω for 24 V 40 W.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A heater cartridge of 14.5 Ω is a 24 V heater cartridge of 40 W, this is the correct heater cartridge for your printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2022-06-23T07:15:32.390" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19587" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19577" CreationDate="2022-06-23T17:37:45.347" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Today, after several failed attempts at another part including &amp;quot;failure to heat&amp;quot; errors, I checked the voltage setting on the controller and found it to be at 230 V. I never looked at it when I assembled the machine 3 days ago. Shame on me!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Setting it to 115 V fixed the issue and my parts ran without interruption.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Many thanks to &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/34312/wanderland1990&quot;&gt;wanderland1990&lt;/a&gt; for the answer, this led me to the solution.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="34536" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2022-06-24T06:53:12.790" LastActivityDate="2022-06-24T06:53:12.790" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19588" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-06-23T23:42:17.837" Score="0" ViewCount="98" Body="&lt;p&gt;Any idea what could be causing a static discharge on large prints? It seems that it's mostly visible when it's done and the print is being removed, it keeps zapping (can barely feel it. Small prints don't seem to be doing this. This leads me to believe it's one of the moving parts rubbing and creating it? I'm using CR6-SE with a glass bed and a full metal hotend and print in PLA PRO (which is another way of saying PLA+ I guess, but the reel said PLA PRO) (in case this was relevant). Another question, I have mystery first layer adhesion issues, could static be responsible for it? After washing the bed with water, it seems to be sticking again for a single print. And I have mystery warps as well. At first I thought it was normal warping, however, it seems to warp in the centre as well. Here's an image of a print:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lny7o.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lny7o.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It looks like someone punched the holes in specific areas. On the other side, they correspond to joints where thin walls ended. I've been suffering from a lot of warp, but it was always corners, never like this. Could this also be caused by static?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lastly, is there any risk for the printer itself? The shock seems to be limited to bed/print only.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="34557" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2022-06-24T06:39:52.237" LastActivityDate="2022-06-24T06:39:52.237" Title="Static electricity underneath the print with mystery adhesion and warping" Tags="|adhesion|warping|creality-cr-6|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19591" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-06-24T20:58:45.497" Score="2" ViewCount="2579" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm having some issues with my Creality HALOT-ONE. As you can see in the photo, it seems that the layers after the bottom layer are peeling off. I have to remark that the bottom layer sticks very well to the printing bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This issue always happens in the next layer after the bottom ones. I have never experienced this in the middle of a print.&#xA;Also, it doesn't happen in all the prints. It seems that it appears near the middle of the resin container. I haven't seen it near the corners of the vat yet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can imagine that the subsequent layers don't stick properly to the bottom one, but I don't have any clue why.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm using the Creality 3D Printer Standard Grey resin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My bottom exposure time is 46 sec. And my layer exposure time is 3sec. The distance that the plate moves after a layer is 5 cm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DbZFe.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Photo of a 3D resin model with the layers after the bottom are peeling off&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DbZFe.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Photo of a 3D resin model with the layers after the bottom are peeling off&quot; title=&quot;Photo of a 3D resin model with the layers after the bottom are peeling off&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="34570" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2022-06-24T21:59:08.463" LastActivityDate="2022-09-03T16:17:42.453" Title="Layers peeling off in resin prints" Tags="|troubleshooting|resin|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19592" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-06-25T07:47:22.587" Score="1" ViewCount="475" Body="&lt;p&gt;Info about the prints:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Using PrusaSlicer with 0.1 mm layer height&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Using PETG, 1.75 mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;240 °C nozzle, 90 °C bed&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;0.4 mm hardened steel nozzle&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Printing at 40 mm/s&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;9 top layers, 7 bottom layers&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Using 15 % infill (slightly more than recommended, trying to keep this low for weight)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.dropbox.com/s/yrqfwz6gake5rvt/IMG_8868.MOV?dl=0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;timelapse of the full print&lt;/a&gt; (I don't have footage of each individual layer being added, but this somewhat shows what's happening)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've done some research, and I think the general term for this anomaly is called &amp;quot;pillowing&amp;quot;, but I think what I've encountered seems to be a much more significant and harmful version. Essentially, it seems to nail the infill parts relatively well, not messing up any of the thin walls, but right as it tries to bridge over them, it seems to fail, creating these odd chunks of chaotic shards. This eventually gets refined as more top layers are added, but I don't want to simply add more top layers, as it seems that 0.9 mm should be enough for most applications. This would probably be a lot more inefficient w/ more top layers, so I'm just trying to figure out the root of the issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've also seen some resources saying that the temperature used is too high and that the temperature is too low, but those seem to have different-looking problems. I'm not sure as well whether the hardened steel nozzle demands a higher temperature as this is one of my first couple prints w/ it. Other than this pillowing problem, the walls seem to be smooth and well-defined, so I'm not sure whether I should change temps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="34576" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2022-06-25T13:03:30.933" LastActivityDate="2022-06-25T23:24:18.243" Title="Large infill top layer almost immediately gets ruined trying to bridge" Tags="|troubleshooting|prusa-mini|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19593" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-06-25T13:46:54.990" Score="1" ViewCount="196" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a bust that I want to print flat on the build plate of an Elegoo resin printer, but I want to place supports inside it without having to add a skate or raft?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this possible, and if so how&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="29097" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2022-06-25T21:41:16.373" LastActivityDate="2022-06-25T21:41:16.373" Title="Chitubox: Is it possible to place a hollow object flat on the build plate and use internal supports?" Tags="|slicing|resin|support-structures|elegoo-saturn|chitubox|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19594" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19592" CreationDate="2022-06-25T20:04:33.033" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;From what you've seen, it's not a high enough value for the infill, as it results in the pillowing you are experiencing. As you are describing that bridging the infill is problematic, the two are directly related.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may be able to mitigate the problem by increasing the infill value or by changing the infill to a different pattern.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If weight is that critical, something has to give way. I would expect very little increase in weight by changing from 15 percent to 30 percent. Your slicer will provide estimates, allowing you to compare the existing print weight in the slicer and existing print weight for increased infill (or different pattern) and determine more accurately the change.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also consider to print a temperature tower for your printer with the steel nozzle. This will ensure that your bridging is being performed at the best temperatures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastEditorUserId="854" LastEditDate="2022-06-25T23:24:18.243" LastActivityDate="2022-06-25T23:24:18.243" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19595" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-06-26T07:47:41.797" Score="1" ViewCount="1586" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I was printing a low poly bunny and all of a sudden the new layers didn't adhere to the other layers. I don't think it was printing an overhang.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have an ender 3 pro which I use together with Cura. I print in PLA at 200 °C. The print bed is set to  60 °C. I use a print cooling fan at 100 %. The layer height I set to 0.2 mm, the line width 0.4 mm from the 0.4 mm nozzle. The Printing Speed is set to 30 mm/s for outer walls, 60 mm/s for inner walls, and 60 mm/s for infill. My retraction is 6.5 mm&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1uVko.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Photo of a 3D printed model with 'spaghetti' errors&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1uVko.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Photo of a 3D printed model with 'spaghetti' errors&quot; title=&quot;Photo of a 3D printed model with 'spaghetti' errors&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="33776" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2022-07-01T23:05:11.387" LastActivityDate="2022-07-01T23:05:11.387" Title="Print turns into spaghetti on Ender 3 Pro" Tags="|creality-ender-3|print-quality|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19596" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-06-26T10:04:22.503" Score="2" ViewCount="325" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've had a lot of difficulty with my CR-5 Pro not reading the micro SD card. I was up and running but got the &amp;quot;blue screen&amp;quot; yesterday and re-flashed the main board using instructions I found on YouTube. But the software version showing up now is older than what was on the machine as delivered and the printer will not run a gcode file even when I can select it.  Trying to re-flash using the SD card is NOT happening. The SD card that came with the machine is 8Gb &amp;quot;Netoc&amp;quot; and is formatted as FAT32. I have a 32Gb SanDisk which I've formatted also as FAT32 but neither card will re-flash the main board. Can I upload the firmware via USB like I can on an Arduino?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="34536" LastActivityDate="2023-12-27T20:02:40.390" Title="Can I re-flash the mainboard on my CR-5 Pro using the USB port instead of the microsd card?" Tags="|firmware|creality-ender-5|microsd|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19597" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-06-26T10:49:32.870" Score="1" ViewCount="496" Body="&lt;p&gt;My CR-5 Pro is brand new and has the V4.2.2 main board. Originally the &amp;quot;About&amp;quot; screen showed the following firmware version:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rbm3S.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Photo of the LCD for an Ender CR 5 Pro showing the firmware version&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rbm3S.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Photo of the LCD for an Ender CR 5 Pro showing the firmware version&quot; title=&quot;Photo of the LCD for an Ender CR 5 Pro showing the firmware version&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the machine went &amp;quot;catatonic&amp;quot; I re-flashed the main board based on instructions I found a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sBbwgcEadk4&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;troubleshooting tutorial&lt;/a&gt; on YouTube which resulted in the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tzlHr.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Photo of the LCD for an Ender CR 5 Pro showing the firmware version after being reflashed&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tzlHr.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Photo of the LCD for an Ender CR 5 Pro showing the firmware version after being reflashed&quot; title=&quot;Photo of the LCD for an Ender CR 5 Pro showing the firmware version after being reflashed&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This software is not working properly. I'd like to find the file that was on the machine as purchased but nothing I've downloaded so far is what I want.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="34536" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2022-06-26T12:51:52.677" LastActivityDate="2022-06-26T12:51:52.677" Title="Which firmware version is correct for my CR-5 Pro with 4.2.2 main board?" Tags="|firmware|creality-ender-5|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19599" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-06-26T15:05:17.580" Score="0" ViewCount="62" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I have a homebuilt 3D printer. I was testing the axes and all of that, suddenly the Z-axis stopped working.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I changed its connection to a different axis, and it's working, but when I bring it back to its original Z-axis port on the RAMPS, it doesn't move. I've adjusted the pot on the A4988 drivers, tried almost three of them, but still it wouldn't move.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What's the problem? Is it the controller issue or what? I've bought two RAMPS boards, first one 1.4, similar issue, the hotend port stopped working, and now RAMPS 1.5, Z-axis stopped working, although initially, they all worked great.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="34593" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2022-06-26T21:14:15.513" LastActivityDate="2022-06-26T21:14:15.513" Title="DIY 3D printer Z-axis problems" Tags="|diy-3d-printer|z-axis|ramps|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19600" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-06-26T15:26:01.793" Score="1" ViewCount="23" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just installed and set up a 3Dtouch on my home-built Prusa. I followed several articles as well as YouTube videos. I can get ABL to work well but printing has become a problem. Each print starts then stops every few seconds and then continues. Having checked a terminal the motherboard is running an &lt;code&gt;M119&lt;/code&gt; every so often and reports the Z endstop triggered. This continues throughout the print stop/starting. The setup worked fine with the original Pinda and steel sheet, but I wanted to change it to a textured glass for better adhesion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tech info:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Prusa Mk3 clone&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;3Dtouch&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;BTT SKR1.3&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Marlin 2.1.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mattercontrol (slicer)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="34594" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2022-06-26T19:49:29.830" LastActivityDate="2022-06-26T19:49:29.830" Title="Print stop/starts after 3Dtouch installation" Tags="|bltouch|3dtouch|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19603" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-06-27T17:15:57.927" Score="2" ViewCount="3064" Body="&lt;p&gt;Slicing software for resin printers: Chitubox, for example, has a setting labelled &amp;quot;Lift Distance&amp;quot;, which as far as I can tell determines how far build plate is lifted in between layers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A layer is printer, the build plate is moved a set distance upwards, and is then moved back down again until the lowest layer is just above the FEP, ready for the next layer to be exposed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In Chitubox this defaults to 7mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What effect does increasing this beyond 7mm have, will it simply increase the total print time or have any other effects.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will reducing it below 7mm have any effects, other than decreasing the total print time?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the distance is set too low, will it mean that new resin cannot flow properly into the gap under the build plate, or are there other potential consequences?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="29097" LastEditorUserId="29097" LastEditDate="2022-06-28T10:09:29.017" LastActivityDate="2022-07-28T11:04:30.400" Title="Resin printers: What effect does altering the lift distance on a Resin printer have, and what are the consequences of getting it wrong?" Tags="|slicing|sla|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19604" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19523" CreationDate="2022-06-27T19:46:48.913" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had a similar issue with my Ender 3, and it was a combination of things. First, the hot end (inside) was clogged. I took the entire thing apart, heated it up, and cleaned it out. There is also a method called a &lt;a href=&quot;https://all3dp.com/2/3d-printer-clogged-nozzle-how-to-perform-a-cold-atomic-pull/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;cold pull&lt;/a&gt;, I did that a few times.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I then also replaced the Bowden tube because it had gunk in it and cause the filament to not flow as it needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After doing those two things, the printer began extruding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One thing I noticed is that those little brass wheels get worn down by the filament really quickly if the stuff isn't moving through the Bowden tube. The PLA just grinds the gear down. You should probably replace that wheel/roller or just get the all-metal extruder like one from &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B07B96QMN2&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Amazon&lt;/a&gt;. I think this is worth the $10.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, you may suffer from under extrusion after doing this and you should probably &lt;a href=&quot;https://all3dp.com/2/extruder-calibration-6-easy-steps-2/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;calibrate your extruder&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's not hard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Doing these things got my Ender back up and running.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="34613" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2022-06-27T20:48:09.513" LastActivityDate="2022-06-27T20:48:09.513" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19605" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19603" CreationDate="2022-06-28T08:34:03.857" Score="1" Body="&lt;h1&gt;Print time&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Raising the bed takes time. In fact, it is possibly more time spent in moving the bed than curing the layers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Caveat emptor!&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can reduce the lift height, but you might suffer:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lifting too little means, that you might not move enough to separate from the FEP film fully - the film is a somewhat stretchy film and you need to raise enough to come free fully to get clean layers, resulting in deformed or missing areas or even just a solid plate that stays at the bottom and separates from the printed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;High viscosity resin not properly flowing in might also be a problem, but of lesser importance generally.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastActivityDate="2022-06-28T08:34:03.857" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19607" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-06-29T05:42:36.103" Score="2" ViewCount="303" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am looking for the equivalent of &lt;code&gt;System.out.println()&lt;/code&gt; or &lt;code&gt;Console.WriteLine()&lt;/code&gt;, but using &lt;code&gt;M118&lt;/code&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, every time a particular variable changes its value I want to send a message to the terminal in OctoPrint as if it were sent by &lt;code&gt;M118&lt;/code&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These commands would be hardcoded into the firmware files before compiling/flashing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since &lt;code&gt;M118.cpp&lt;/code&gt; is only designed to parse a string given by the user I am not quite clear how to co-opt it for this use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any help would be appreciated!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14623" LastEditorUserId="14623" LastEditDate="2023-01-13T07:14:45.040" LastActivityDate="2023-11-12T14:04:35.510" Title="Marlin: How to print to terminal to debug?" Tags="|marlin|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19608" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-06-29T20:03:13.490" Score="1" ViewCount="397" Body="&lt;p&gt;Using TH3D firmware with some small changes to allow manual mesh levelling and to increase the serial baud rate, neither of which are active when the error presented.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When auto home is used either through the LCD or by directly pushing a command to the printer it (correctly) says that x=0, y=0 but is incessant that z=0.3. When measuring with a feeler guage it turns out it is correct on what the Z value is, which would be fine if it wasnt for the fact it refuses to go lower than its percieved Z=0.3, even when I intentionally screw up the homing so that the endstop does not trigger at that height.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've tried setting a z offset both through serial connection and through the LCD and it echos them back and appears to listen to the changes in that the nozzle distance changes but still the printer assumes that when the endstop is triggered Z=0.3, which makes absolutely no sense to me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any help would be appreciated&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="34623" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2022-06-29T21:52:40.950" LastActivityDate="2023-04-06T01:03:05.403" Title="Ender 3 not allowing z=0 regardless of z offset value" Tags="|creality-ender-3|firmware|th3d|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19609" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19565" CreationDate="2022-06-30T01:51:36.313" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since I have been unable to find a way to fix the E3D V6 clone hotend I have instead replaced it with a Creality Mk 8 that I had on-hand, which has so far worked flawlessly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am assuming that the improved performance is related to the use of a shorter nozzle and/or the Bowden tube butting directly against the nozzle instead of interfacing with an all-metal heat-break. Those seem to be the biggest differences between the two designs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="34495" LastActivityDate="2022-06-30T01:51:36.313" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19610" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19558" CreationDate="2022-06-30T08:37:21.717" Score="2" Body="&lt;h3&gt;Posting my own solution here&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The seams are printing normally now and the solution was simple. The extruder gear was not gripping the filament correctly during retractions and was slipping as a result. Figured this out because the gear seemed to be dirty, which made me think 'how could it get dirty?'.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There was an adjustment that compresses a spring that holds the filament against the extruder gear, it just needed some adjusting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you to everyone for your ideas, I was close to quitting with this printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21871" LastActivityDate="2022-06-30T08:37:21.717" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19611" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-06-30T17:26:53.373" Score="2" ViewCount="2237" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to set up a Creality Sprite Extruder on my Ender 3 Pro without using the kit (installing the extruder alone).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can see on the &lt;a href=&quot;https://store.creality.com/products/sprite-extruder-pro-kit-300%E2%84%83-printing&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Sprite Extruder Pro Kit product page&lt;/a&gt; that the extruder operates at 1.4 VDC and 0.8 A.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm using TMC2208 and Klipper. How can I set my extruder's driver up so that the provided voltage is 1.4 V? Is it the same as setting the VRef to 1.4 V?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can it be done in the Klipper configuration (I have a UART set up), or does it need to be done on the trimpot?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26601" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2023-11-28T13:12:14.263" LastActivityDate="2023-12-28T14:00:50.077" Title="How to configure the TMC2208 Driver Voltage for a Creality Sprite Extruder in Klipper on Ender 3 Pro?" Tags="|creality-ender-3|klipper|tmc2208|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19613" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-07-01T19:01:16.513" Score="2" ViewCount="1155" Body="&lt;p&gt;Starting with the premise that I that I can't just fill the vat to the brim (For example, because I don't have enough of a particular resin to do so), is there a rule of thumb, or a manufacturer's recommendation on how much resin I should put in my vat beyond the amount that my slicers says that it needs to print successfully, as a safety net against running the vat too low during the print due to uncured resin being retained on the surface of my model or inside a hollowed out model, and not freely floating in the vat?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, if I have a tank with XYZ dimension, and the slicer says that it needs 100ml of resin to completed, should I put in 150ml, 200ml, 300ml?, or percentage more ML based on the size of my vat?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm looking for the recommended minimum safety margin not to go below, not a maximum level.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="29097" LastEditorUserId="29097" LastEditDate="2022-07-03T05:34:58.283" LastActivityDate="2022-07-03T05:34:58.283" Title="How much extra resin should put in my vat beyond what the slicer says that it needs?" Tags="|slicing|resin|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19614" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19613" CreationDate="2022-07-01T20:45:52.570" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your vat should have markings indicating a maximum level. Filling to the brim will result in a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.education.com/science-fair/article/Eureka-volume-displacement-water/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Eureka moment&lt;/a&gt;, one much messier than the original bathtub version.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Consider that you want sufficient volume of resin to ensure that there will be some remaining on the vat when the build plate is lifted. Too little resin might result in areas of zero coverage. A low volume of resin may also affect how quickly the residual volume flows into the vacated area of the vat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't wish to use the max volume option of the vat (no markings? Check the manual) you could perform a test.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pour resin to cover the vat surface. Use the manual controls to return the bed to home position. There will be some overflow on the build plate, but certainly not to exit the vat. Add enough resin to provide a few millimeters of coverage, then add the volume indicated by the slicer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most models are not solid blocks encompassing the entire area of the vat and as the build plate lifts, less resin will be required to cover the tapering portions of the model, ensuring better coverage than a minimum.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastActivityDate="2022-07-01T20:45:52.570" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19615" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-07-01T21:25:55.317" Score="0" ViewCount="2976" Body="&lt;p&gt;After leveling the corners of my bed (Ender 3 Pro, with Creality glass bed) the center of my bed is higher. When I start a print the nozzle is so close to the glass bed no filament is laid down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any way to independently level the center of my bed? No matter how much I adjust the knobs I can't get the center leveled.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;I bodged it to print the first layer nicely by simply using a raft. Its working for the benchy I am currently printing, but I don't know how feasible a whole beds' worth of parts is on a massive raft. But for the time being this should work for now.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="34640" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2022-07-02T10:24:15.110" LastActivityDate="2022-07-07T09:33:23.173" Title="Glass bed is higher in center when corners are leveled" Tags="|bed-leveling|adhesion|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19616" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19595" CreationDate="2022-07-01T21:30:09.157" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the print didn't stay adhered to the bed during the spaghettification, depending on where it was in the print (outer wall, inner wall, infill), I suspect that you might be printing too fast for that area.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This would cause friction to build enough to shift the print or even knock it over, and then you're printing in the air with nothing to support it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="34640" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2022-07-01T23:03:04.307" LastActivityDate="2022-07-01T23:03:04.307" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19617" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19618" CreationDate="2022-07-02T05:08:49.173" Score="9" ViewCount="19444" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought an Ender 3 recently and it has the 4.2.2 Creality board.  Then I bought a BLTouch to upgrade it with bed leveling. It turns out that the BLTouch now comes with a standard 5-pin connector instead of the separate wires that all the tutorials talk about.  How do I install the thing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="60" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2022-07-02T10:20:17.370" LastActivityDate="2024-01-02T21:08:48.960" Title="Configuring Marlin 2.x with Ender 3 4.2.2 and BLTouch" Tags="|creality-ender-3|marlin|firmware|bltouch|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19618" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19617" CreationDate="2022-07-02T05:08:49.173" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;The BLTouch now comes with a standard 5-pin connector.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ov5bV.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ov5bV.png&quot; alt=&quot;BL Touch Wires&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and that connector is supported on the board that seems to be shipping with Ender 3s these days, the Creality 4.2.2 board (Notice it's in the bottom right and says BL_T next to it)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fVU6W.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fVU6W.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Creality 4.2.2 Board&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is intended to make installing things easier. Since I also had a new hotend I was installing, I needed to go the route of configuring my own firmware. If you don't need that, you can be lazy and snag the pre-built firmware from Creality's website &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.creality.com/pages/download-ender-3&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you, like me, go the route of building your own firmware, there's a lot of steps, and I'm sharing the results of 2 days of effort. To do this, you get to become a software developer for the next few minutes. Follow along carefully, as any misstep could be really really annoying.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Download the latest &lt;a href=&quot;https://marlinfw.org&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Marlin&lt;/a&gt; firmware. Creality already uses Marlin as a base for their firmware, so this is going to be the best choice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Marlin is not preconfigured for your Ender 3, but we can snag the example configurations for an Ender 3 from the Marlin Configuration repository. I went ahead and found you the version for the Ender 3 with a 4.2.2 board &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Configurations/tree/import-2.1.x/config/examples/Creality/Ender-3/CrealityV422&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;. You're going to want to download all of the files in that directory.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Unzip the Marlin firmware to a folder, and in that folder you'll see ANOTHER folder named Marlin. You'll want to copy your configuration files downloaded in STEP 2 into that inner Marlin folder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Now we need &lt;a href=&quot;https://code.visualstudio.com/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Visual Studio Code&lt;/a&gt; (told you you get to be a developer). Once you open it, you'll need to install an extension Marlin made for VSCode to allow you to easily build your firmware. The instructions on installing Auto Build Marlin are found &lt;a href=&quot;https://marlinfw.org/docs/basics/auto_build_marlin.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Now you have a neat little button in VSCode to do stuff with Marlin.&lt;br&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hJbkU.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hJbkU.png&quot; alt=&quot;Auto Build Marlin in VSCode&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;But wait!  We're not ready to click that yet. First we need to modify those configuration files you downloaded.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;First let's update the &lt;code&gt;Configuration.h&lt;/code&gt; file. There are a lot of important settings here, many you should change, and many that are nice to change, but I'm only going to list the ones that are absolutely necessary to get the BLTouch working.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;you need to comment out the &lt;code&gt;Z_MIN_PROBE_USES_Z_MIN_ENDSTOP_PIN&lt;/code&gt; setting, because the your BLTouch is using a different pin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;So that we don't lose our Z Homing, we need to then uncomment the setting for &lt;code&gt;USE_PROBE_FOR_Z_HOMING&lt;/code&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;And here's the one that I only found on the &lt;a href=&quot;https://forums.creality3dofficial.com/community/ender-3-series/bl-touch-problems-w-4-2-2/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Creality forums with a lucky search&lt;/a&gt;.  You need to uncomment &lt;code&gt;Z_MIN_PROBE_PIN&lt;/code&gt; and set it to &lt;code&gt;PB1&lt;/code&gt; which is your BLTouch's connection point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Naturally, you'll need to uncomment the setting for &lt;code&gt;BLTOUCH&lt;/code&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You'll want to adjust the &lt;code&gt;NOZZLE_TO_PROBE_OFFSET&lt;/code&gt; to account for the position the BLTouch mounts in. The standard bracket should match close the values I have set below. Notice I didn't set the Z value at all.  You should do that on the printer by hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If you're going to use the BLTouch, you should configure some sort of auto bed leveling.  I picked UBL so I uncommented the setting: &lt;code&gt;AUTO_BED_LEVELING_UBL&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Since you're doing auto bed leveling, you need to turn it on, which you do by uncommenting the setting &lt;code&gt;ENABLE_LEVELING_AFTER_G28&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Consider Nice-To-Have values, like &lt;code&gt;Z_SAFE_HOMING&lt;/code&gt;, &lt;code&gt;LCD_BED_LEVELING&lt;/code&gt;, &lt;code&gt;PREHEAT_BEFORE_LEVELING&lt;/code&gt;, &lt;code&gt;INDIVIDUAL_AXIS_HOMING_MENU&lt;/code&gt; or &lt;code&gt;PROBE_OFFSET_WIZARD&lt;/code&gt; in &lt;code&gt;Configuration_adv.h&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;// #define Z_MIN_PROBE_USES_Z_MIN_ENDSTOP_PIN&#xA;&#xA;// Force the use of the probe for Z-axis homing&#xA;#define USE_PROBE_FOR_Z_HOMING&#xA;...&#xA;#define Z_MIN_PROBE_PIN PB1 // Pin 32 is the RAMPS default&#xA;...&#xA;#define BLTOUCH&#xA;...&#xA;#define NOZZLE_TO_PROBE_OFFSET { -44, -9, 0}&#xA;...&#xA;#define AUTO_BED_LEVELING_UBL&#xA;...&#xA;#define ENABLE_LEVELING_AFTER_G28&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol start=&quot;7&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Finally, you're ready to build. Click on the &amp;quot;Auto Marlin Build&amp;quot; extension, then click &amp;quot;Show ABM Panel&amp;quot;.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QMiHM.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QMiHM.png&quot; alt=&quot;Show ABM Panel Button&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Marlin should have figured out that you're trying to build for an Ender 3.  I honestly don't know what the different environments are for, but the first one seems to work just fine.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tftdU.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tftdU.png&quot; alt=&quot;Marlin Builds&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Once the build completes, there will be a link which will open the folder where the build is. You'll want to get the SD card from your Ender 3 and copy the &lt;code&gt;.bin&lt;/code&gt; file from that folder onto the root of the SD card. Then stick the SD card in your Ender 3 and power it up and you should see your new Marlin Firmware start up. Then you can start configuring your BLTouch for auto bed leveling.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="60" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2022-07-02T10:19:11.493" LastActivityDate="2022-07-02T10:19:11.493" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19619" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19620" CreationDate="2022-07-02T15:44:16.010" Score="1" ViewCount="1587" Body="&lt;p&gt;After printing some parts in TPU, I encountered continuous clogging after returning to PLA. Not right out of the bat, but after about an hour or such, all prints I started since the swap back clog after about an hour. I use an Ender-3, Bowden Style, and print my PLA generally at 200 °C. The TPU had been listed as 220-240 °C on the roll, so I printed at 230 °C.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I regain normal printing behavior?!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2022-07-02T16:20:19.217" LastActivityDate="2024-01-26T11:15:41.530" Title="My printer clogs after Printing TPU! How can I fix it back up?" Tags="|troubleshooting|pla|tpu|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19620" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19619" CreationDate="2022-07-02T15:44:16.010" Score="2" Body="&lt;h2&gt;What's the cause of the problem?&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem is the dissimilar printing temperatures:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;TPU is printed at around &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$\pu{230 °C}$&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;PLA is printed at around &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$\pu{200 °C}$&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a result, when the PLA is molten and well printable already, residue of TPU in the hotend is at an awkward spot: it is molten enough to seep down along the filament path with molten PLA, but it is not soft enough to get easily extruded from the nozzle. This is what leads to clogging.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Problem solution&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To fix the clogging, I took the following steps after the very first time I encountered it:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Swap the nozzle to reduce the residue still in the machine&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do a cold-pull with the PLA, taking away a quite good chunk of the residue that still might remain in the heatbreak.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Finally, do a &lt;em&gt;purge&lt;/em&gt; print at an elevated temperature. For me, about &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$\pu{215 °C}$&lt;/span&gt; did work to get the last traces of residue from the heartbreak out.-&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There you go! One restored printing behavior!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Technically, the nozzle swap and cold pull were &lt;em&gt;overkill&lt;/em&gt;, but reduced the amount of TPU that needed to be purged out of the nozzle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Refined problem solution&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since the problem occurred first, I managed to refine my procedure to prevent clogs in the first place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Heat the nozzle to ca. &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$\pu{230 °C}$&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pull the TPU Filament without cooling&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Load the PLA Filament&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Manually push filament until the about 10 to 15 mm are extruded from the nozzle&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Order the extruder to extrude 10 cm of Filament&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Set print temperature down to to &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$\pu{200 °C}$&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While the extruder pushes the PLA through at an elevated temperature, it clears the whole path while cooling down, and can cycle right into the next print. It can help to use a different color PLA than the TPU to have a visible confirmation of the last residue being gone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another helpful indicator is the cooling down filament's flexibility: as long as TPU is in the mix, the extruded string is bendy but becomes stiff as soon as there is almost no more residue in it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2024-01-26T11:15:41.530" LastActivityDate="2024-01-26T11:15:41.530" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19623" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-07-03T17:21:51.920" Score="1" ViewCount="121" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently changed the mainboard on my Ender CR-20 Pro because the SD card slot started acting up. I replaced it with the same spare part, hooked everything up (after having a bit of a fight unplugging it from the old mainboard as everything was glued down...), and started the printer. Things looked mostly good, but the heated bed temperature was stuck at 113 °C (even after restarting, flashing the firmware again, or anything else). Just to be clear, it's just the firmware thinking it is 113 °C, it is in fact cool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My initial thought was that I probably broke the thermistor of the heated bed somehow when installing the new mainboard and was almost buying a new heated bed already. However, I did (luckily) decide to just quickly swap the thermistors, connected the hotend thermistor to the heat bed connectors, and the heated bed thermistor to the hotend connectors. Interestingly the same result, hotend now shows the temperature of the heated bed (put a fan on the thermistor of the heated bed to verify) and the heated bed is still stuck on 113°.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With these results, it seemed obvious that the issue must be with the mainboard (broken connector or line/resistor whatever) and not the thermistor on the heated bed. Since my original issues with the old mainboard were unrelated I figured I'd just throw in the old mainboard and deal with the annoying SD card issue until I get a replaced mainboard through warranty. I removed all the connectors and put them on the old mainboard again. I turned on the printer again and now the heated bed is stuck at 168 °C. This has been working just a couple of hours ago. Same results as with the new main board, when switching hotend and heated bed it shows the right temperature still only on the hotend display.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am somewhat flabbergasted, there are not that many connectors, and all of them are properly labeled, so I know that I have connected it to the right connector. I know that the connector on the old mainboard is functioning fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone have any idea what could be causing this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it helps, here is a picture of the wiring of the relevant parts&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bmObi.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Photo of Ender CR-20 Pro mainboard&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bmObi.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Photo of Ender CR-20 Pro mainboard&quot; title=&quot;Photo of Ender CR-20 Pro mainboard&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20301" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2022-07-03T21:38:12.500" LastActivityDate="2022-07-03T21:38:12.500" Title="CR-20 Pro Heated Bed Thermistor &quot;stuck&quot; after mainboard change" Tags="|firmware|temperature|creality|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19626" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19331" CreationDate="2022-07-06T08:51:09.133" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I don't concentrate on the blob, but on the rest of the print of first posted image, it can be concluded that the initial distance of the nozzle to the bed is  too large. This causes adhesion problems and buildup of material like a blob.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Dial in the correct nozzle to bed distance using a piece of paper and depending on the bed surface an adhesion product.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2022-07-06T08:51:09.133" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19627" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-07-06T10:51:23.863" Score="5" ViewCount="85" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am on the hunt for CAD packages which can perform some level of slicing as an inherent model feature, instead of either exporting to STL and then importing into the slicer (a la OnShape) or directly opening the slicer from within the software (a la Fusion 360). I would like this because I want to model directly for the print instead of having to go through an iterative process where certain tools cannot be used to their fullest extent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For instance, it's very easy for me to print a model, measure it to quantify shrink, and then backport required changes into my CAD model. However, this is not ideal as it prevents me from analyzing the model before print. (For instance, using the CAD software to calculate mass, C.G., moment of inertia, or doing mechanical and thermal analysis on the printed shape, not the modeled solid.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In a perfect world, I'd have the ability to run Cura as an operation on the model. The resulting CAD would then include the infill structures as well as any required modifications to the original part, e.g. a discrepancy between the desired height and the printed height or a wall width vs the nozzle width.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there anything out there which fits the bill? I know nothing is perfect, but anything right now would be a big step forward.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="34675" LastEditorUserId="8353" LastEditDate="2022-07-08T19:33:54.513" LastActivityDate="2022-07-10T09:23:26.213" Title="Is there an example of tight coupling between CAD and sliced models?" Tags="|slicing|cad|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19630" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19615" CreationDate="2022-07-07T09:33:23.173" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the glass is not straight you can do 3 things:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;use a bltouch or some other mesh level mechanism.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;adjust the height for the center of the bed, so you can print small prints with no problem. Do this by leveling the 4 corners and then adjusting all 4 knobs the same amount until the center is at the correct height.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;probably the best thing to do is get a new glass plate. Creality has more issues with warped or bulged print-surfaces. Maybe your supplier can take care of this for you.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4708" LastActivityDate="2022-07-07T09:33:23.173" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19631" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16213" CreationDate="2022-07-08T04:27:42.510" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my case: in section homing I've uncomented&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#define USE_XMAX_PLUG&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Apparently, when using sensorless homing, it is undesire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="34689" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2022-07-09T15:36:48.180" LastActivityDate="2022-07-09T15:36:48.180" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19632" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-07-08T13:14:23.733" Score="0" ViewCount="1520" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there any known site where you can input your 3D printer's information and it will show you all G-code files uploaded to that site and would have a download button? If not, it's not a huge deal. It's just that I can't find my computer, therefore can't use a slicer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="34694" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2022-07-08T15:29:38.923" LastActivityDate="2024-02-16T20:53:02.520" Title="Does anyone know a site where you can download straight up G-code files?" Tags="|g-code|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19634" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19627" CreationDate="2022-07-09T12:35:44.420" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Blender has a CNC slicer plugin, it's not exactly what you're asking for but it can perform some of the tasks that you're asking for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://sourceforge.net/projects/cnc-slicer-blender-plugin/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;CNC slicer for Blender&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="29097" LastActivityDate="2022-07-09T12:35:44.420" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19635" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19608" CreationDate="2022-07-09T23:08:51.723" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The issue with the TH3D firmware I'm using (the latest available for the Melzi ender 3 as of now) is I could not find any values for the minimum Z value, this was because it is not explicitly defined in the configs by default.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Digging around some borderline prehistoric docs and forum posts I found to fix this it needs defining in the configuration_backend.h (as far as I can tell - might also function in other config files).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#define Z_MIN_POS 0&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My current assumption was by not defining this marlin was either assuming some incorrect default or the printer was assuming some long past set value and making it impossible to change this default through a serial connection without updating the firmware. (again this is a guess - it may be possible)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This can also obviously be used to set any Z minimum e.g. for a bed that is higher than it's endstops.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="34623" LastActivityDate="2022-07-09T23:08:51.723" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19636" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19632" CreationDate="2022-07-10T09:14:39.110" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Perhaps go to your printers manufacturers or resellers site. They may have g-code. I got some g-code files along with my printer. So I assume they must be available somewhere.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31811" LastActivityDate="2022-07-10T09:14:39.110" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19637" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19627" CreationDate="2022-07-10T09:23:26.213" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Microsoft 3d builder will do it. It's far from the best CAD or Printing software though. Works very well for what it is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31811" LastActivityDate="2022-07-10T09:23:26.213" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19638" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-07-10T09:46:45.127" Score="1" ViewCount="424" Body="&lt;p&gt;While waiting for BTT technical support to reply to my email, I thought I would ask this community for help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I own an Ender 3 Pro, upgraded 2 years ago with BTT SKR Mini E3 V2.0 + TFT35 E3 V3.0. Firmware MARLIN BUGFIX-2.0.x of 23/03/2020. (no change).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Everything OK, a significant upgrade from stock hardware.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Today I installed the second Z-axis (with its stepper motor), connecting it to the output (ZBM) of the motherboard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Stepper works fine, but all the limit switches (x, y, z) don't stop the stepper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The end stops responding correctly to &lt;code&gt;M119&lt;/code&gt; ('open' state), when pressed manually they change to the 'triggered' state. But they don't stop the relative axis stepper motor when I perform (i.e.) a homing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can you suggest me a solution?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="34714" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2022-07-10T11:27:48.003" LastActivityDate="2022-07-11T13:05:59.923" Title="ENDER 3 PRO - Install Dual-Z - Endstops trigger OK, but don't stop the stepper" Tags="|creality-ender-3|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19639" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-07-10T15:15:41.993" Score="1" ViewCount="886" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently ended up detaching the Bowden tube of my Weedo Tina 2 to get a stuck piece of filament out. I think I may have ended up pushing the gantry out of true because this issue started right after.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I perform automated bed leveling, the nozzle is pushed into the bed. Printing with the previously good Z offset results in the nozzle carving a pattern into the bed. I needed to adjust the z offset slightly past the point where the hall effect sensor's led turns off. I can lift the side opposite to the screw slightly and this lifts the nozzle relative to the sensor a bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I managed to print the bottom layer of an object that occupies most of the bed. In this image, the lower right hand corner where the layer is thinnest is towards the single Z-axis screw. The opposite corner is slightly detached from the bed, as is the entire edge on the non-drive side of the gantry. During the printing of the raft, I could hear the filament feed motor stick as if the nozzle was so hard against the bed that it blocked the filament completely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kR6bK.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kR6bK.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Raft and bottom layer of an object, demonstrating the apparent tilt.&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Experimenting with a small magnet, it appears that the hall sensor's indicator light turns on when the magnet is slightly above the level of the nozzle. Hand-turning the z screw with the bed offset to one side indicates that the sensor lights up when the nozzle would be in the bed. The magnetized part appears to be the bottom of the detachable bed, but the sensor doesn't light up with either side of it touching the sensor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is definitely some play in the non drive side of the gantry. It is easy to lift that side a bit. Also, I can see divots in the bed where the ABL has driven the nozzle in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's the back and front of the gantry:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/t1h7S.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/t1h7S.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Rear view of the Tina 2 gantry&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pmlJK.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pmlJK.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Front view of the gantry&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This one is from the top, the non-drive side:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PLr6v.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PLr6v.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Top view of the gantry&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some poking around led me to notice this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/C4ptU.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/C4ptU.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Top of the Z-screw, unsupported&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It appears that the top of the Z-screw is unsupported and, with the gantry down, it points slightly off the slot that looks like it should hold some sort of supporting bearing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Supporting the gantry with a finger during the print job results in an evenly printed raft but I am not about to spend half an hour as a structural member.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As mentioned, I believe the gantry has become slightly tilted, but it could be an issue with the hall sensor. Is there a way for me to fix this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="34718" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2022-07-16T10:21:42.417" LastActivityDate="2022-07-16T10:21:42.417" Title="How to fix a tilted gantry on a Weedo Tina 2?" Tags="|bed-leveling|repair|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19640" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19638" CreationDate="2022-07-11T13:05:59.923" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I performed a factory reset and the end-stop situation has normalized.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="34714" LastActivityDate="2022-07-11T13:05:59.923" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19642" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-07-11T18:52:40.727" Score="0" ViewCount="43" Body="&lt;p&gt;I need to build a space frame (see &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Structural_mechanics&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Structural Mechanics&lt;/a&gt;) which however long it will be (e.g. 2 m), durable, flexible, supporting itself and small weight over. Let's imagine it as a fixed umbrella with that frame under which you can squeeze and come back to shape.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which filaments should I check?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PS. I know the size is big but it is fine if I build it in pieces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="34726" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2022-07-13T04:04:09.423" LastActivityDate="2022-07-13T04:04:09.423" Title="Filament choice: durable, flexible, long space frame" Tags="|filament|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19643" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7496" CreationDate="2022-07-12T09:54:11.317" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I expected more than a couple months but perhaps I am wrong?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It depends on the filament, the shipping and the local conditions. I'm on an Island, so very high humidity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We have several useless spools that never worked out of the box. They were shipped seafreight from China and had a couple of months journey. Only 2 spools out of 10 were useable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With other filament seafreighted from Australia for 3 weeks filament here seems to last about a month at best, with 4 days being the lower limit so far. This is despite being kept in an airconditioned room most of the time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We have had limited success with drying them out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31811" LastActivityDate="2022-07-12T09:54:11.317" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19644" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-07-12T13:29:54.153" Score="0" ViewCount="211" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nN2vA.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nN2vA.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;I recently tried to use Matterhackers Quantum filament and I've run into some issues and curious if anyone else has.  I have a CR6-SE with community firmware, a regular Bowden tube with upgraded heatbreak (the metal tube that goes inside the heat block where the material is melted) installed, slicing software is Cura 15.  My issue is I can't get it to print well or for long.  I can run Polymaker, Geeektech, Sunlu, and most other brands of PLA without issue or minor tweaks. This stuff will not play nice. I'm at my wit's end trying to figure this out. Here are something's I've tried. The first 15 to 30 layers will go down beautifully and then it just stops extruding.  When it starts to stop extruding it will print blobs all over the print surface, wispy lines, then nothing. If I am not there watching it, it will have layers of virtually very little filament like it was getting clogged up and the next layers after that will be normal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other measures taken:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hot end temperature ranges 215 to 240 °C as per Matterhackers support instructions.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Adjusting retraction distance/speed independent of each other.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Adjusted heat bed ranges 40 to 70 °C.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Adjusted print speeds 30 to 60 mm/s.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Adjusting initial Z height from 0.15 to 0.2 mm.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Put the filament in a food dehydrator for 2 to 48 hrs.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's not just one particular file either; it's anything I try to print with this filament from a simple cube to complex curves and angles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Image 1 shows first layer prints, these are mostly smooth and not problem with adhesion to the bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Image 2 shows how the print is changing.  The temp has stayed constant throughout the entire print, but only towards the top is it smoothing out.  On the bottom (pic doesn't show it clearly) there are layers missing, or partial layers missing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BO3QH.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BO3QH.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;print variations with constant temp&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="34734" LastEditorUserId="34734" LastEditDate="2022-07-15T14:16:14.917" LastActivityDate="2022-07-15T14:16:14.917" Title="Quantum PLA stops extruding, other PLA works fine" Tags="|pla|creality-cr-6|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19645" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-07-12T18:27:47.037" Score="3" ViewCount="5969" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Creality slicer, which settings would you change to reduce the amount of surface area from the supporting structure that makes contact with overhangs on the model you are printing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, if you are printing the object pictured below, and the green area is the support structure, and the red area is the overhang that requires supporting, how would you decrease the amount of green that touched the red?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WyX7Q.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WyX7Q.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm asking about dialing back the surface area contact on &amp;quot;any&amp;quot; style of support, not choosing between different styles of support&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="29097" LastActivityDate="2022-12-10T15:22:31.427" Title="In Creality slicer, which settings should be adjusted to reduce the contact area between a support and an overhang?" Tags="|support-structures|creality|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19646" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19645" CreationDate="2022-07-12T21:54:02.693" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Creality's slicer is forked from Ultimakers Cura slicer and afterwards further developed as a minimalistic slicer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the options are similar, you can look at &lt;a href=&quot;https://support.ultimaker.com/hc/en-us/articles/360012612779-Support-settings&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Cura slicer support options&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The amount of support is controlled by the option called &lt;code&gt;Support density&lt;/code&gt; in Cura, the lower the percentage, the lower the amount of support.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rh73O.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rh73O.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;This model has triangle support with three different densities: 15 %, 30 % and 45 %&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looking at a Creality slicer screenshot from 2021:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8QB70.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8QB70.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might want to look into &lt;code&gt;Fill amount (%)&lt;/code&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2022-07-12T22:00:41.663" LastActivityDate="2022-07-12T22:00:41.663" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19647" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19642" CreationDate="2022-07-13T00:54:55.203" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;TPU filament is the only thing I can suggest if you must 3d print this gadget. It's strong and flexible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31811" LastActivityDate="2022-07-13T00:54:55.203" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19650" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-07-13T19:45:05.190" Score="2" ViewCount="3385" Body="&lt;p&gt;Something changed on my Ender 5 Pro. I do not know what. Only that even after re-leveling the bed several times it won't lay down a stable first layer unless I go into the tune menu and manually raise the Z level slightly to bring the bed closer to the nozzle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do I change, and then save, the printer's settings so that this slight rise is applied to all future prints?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I presume that this is the offset value?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm running stock firmware.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finding out what changed and why is a question for later.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="29097" LastEditorUserId="29097" LastEditDate="2022-07-14T07:52:12.960" LastActivityDate="2024-01-10T00:08:45.953" Title="How do I change and then save the Z offset on an Ender 5 Pro" Tags="|z-axis|creality-ender-5|bed|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19651" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14326" CreationDate="2022-07-14T15:05:11.873" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Every print is somewhat affected by chamber temperature. On small prints, or prints with lower-temperature materials, the improvement is minor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, large prints with higher-temperature materials (like PETG) really benefit from a heated chamber. This helps by keeping the entire build close to the glass transition temperature until it's all done, and then letting it all cool together, more uniformly. Uniform cooling reduces the stresses of having different layers cool at different times and rates.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4922" LastActivityDate="2022-07-14T15:05:11.873" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19652" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-07-14T17:35:05.743" Score="0" ViewCount="366" Body="&lt;p&gt;To start with, as stated in the title, I am very new to 3D printing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We're a toy/boardgame shop and we're experimenting with 3D printing because it could open up a huge market for us. To this end, I'm asked to try to get this off the ground, but also for me it's a big experiment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;General Information&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Printer:&lt;/strong&gt; Craftbot Plus&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;Slicer:&lt;/strong&gt; CraftwarePro (1.1.4.368)&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;Filament:&lt;/strong&gt; PLA - 1.75 mm&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;Designed in:&lt;/strong&gt; Tinkercad&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Problem&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I designed a puzzle box in Tinkercad. Here are some images of the design:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VA4j3.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Screenshot of puzzle box designed in Tinkercad&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VA4j3.png&quot; alt=&quot;Screenshot of puzzle box designed in Tinkercad&quot; title=&quot;Screenshot of puzzle box designed in Tinkercad&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've printed it twice, but both have some problems. I made some pictures, hopefully showing the flaws clearly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h4&gt;Print 1&lt;/h4&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This print actually came out pretty ok, but not the quality I'm looking for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xeFkM.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Photo 1 of a printed model #1 with printing errors on bottom layer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xeFkM.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Photo 1 of a printed model #1 with printing errors on bottom layer&quot; title=&quot;Photo 1 of a printed model #1 with printing errors on bottom layer&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cOst8.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Photo 2 of a printed model #1 with printing errors on bottom layer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cOst8.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Photo 2 of a printed model #1 with printing errors on bottom layer&quot; title=&quot;Photo 2 of a printed model #1 with printing errors on bottom layer&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UxaPx.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Photo 3 of a printed model #1 with printing errors on bottom layer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UxaPx.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Photo 3 of a printed model #1 with printing errors on bottom layer&quot; title=&quot;Photo 3 of a printed model #1 with printing errors on bottom layer&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h4&gt;Print 2&lt;/h4&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For some reason, this one came out way worse in my opinion. I didn't change any settings. The reason why I made this second print is that there are some design flaws in the first print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/x35Wf.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Photo 1 of a printed model #2 with printing errors&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/x35Wf.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Photo 1 of a printed model #2 with printing errors&quot; title=&quot;Photo 1 of a printed model #2 with printing errors&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lq7Cx.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Photo 2 of a printed model #2 with printing errors&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lq7Cx.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Photo 2 of a printed model #2 with printing errors&quot; title=&quot;Photo 2 of a printed model #2 with printing errors&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you might be able to tell, this one has some more severe problems, like the prolapse on one of the corners of the lid and some threads that just seem to be broken off here and there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Question&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is basically, what is likely to be the problem, and how should I solve them. Are there some settings on the printer, or in the slicer that needs to be changed? Or could it be something with the design, for example, would it be better to have the lids laying down on the bed, instead of standing up as I have them in the design right now?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, here and there seem to be threads of plastic where I think there should not be any.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;What have I found myself&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since I'm very new to this, I wasn't really sure what to search/look for. I know it's expected to do some research yourself before posting any question, but I really didn't have a clue where to start.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Though, while typing in the question, 2 suggestions showed up:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h4&gt;Suggestion 1&lt;/h4&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/13433/i-have-bad-print-quality-what-should-i-do&quot;&gt;I have bad print quality, what should I do?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure this looks like any of my problem areas, but somewhat similar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Suggestion 2&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/13856/bad-quality-at-horizontal-faces&quot;&gt;Bad quality at horizontal faces&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This looks very much similar to how some of my areas look. Is the problem described in this post indeed the same as mine, based on the pictures?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h4&gt;Conclusion&lt;/h4&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In both posts, &lt;em&gt;&amp;quot;Under Extrusion&amp;quot;&lt;/em&gt; is mentioned this is probably something to look into?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Some personal observations&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are 2 things I noticed myself, maybe some conclusions can be made from this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Something else I'm noticing while heating up the extruder is that plastic already leaks out in a very thin thread before it actually starts printing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;When the print is done, I notice thin threads of plastic between the different objects (Like a spiderweb), this probably has something to do with point 1.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;When the printer is starting, I notice that the very first threads of plastic are not a fluent string, but sometimes get interrupted, as if no plastic is coming out of the extruder for a short moment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Conclusion&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hopefully, I provided every information that is required to answer this question properly. I'm looking forward to any offered assistance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In case any additional information is required, I'm happy to give this next time I'm at the office.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;P.S. I had to remove 6 links (pictures) to get to my maximum of 8&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="34754" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2022-07-21T14:18:01.103" LastActivityDate="2024-02-02T23:16:30.883" Title="Very first 3D prints, but bad quality. What can I do?" Tags="|print-quality|tinkercad|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19653" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19571" CreationDate="2022-07-14T20:09:45.243" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have the same issue with marlin 2.1.x bugfix. I just downloaded it this morning, installed it on 6 machines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If power loss is disabled absolutely everything works, but as soon as I enable power loss recovery, it will auto home all, heat up the bed and nozzle, do the purge line on far left of build plate, attempt the very first layer, and then reboots, reheats, and keeps retrying...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Funny thing is that for some reason my printers print so much better with Marlin 2.1, so I really need power loss to work as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="34760" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2022-07-14T22:30:06.283" LastActivityDate="2022-07-14T22:30:06.283" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19654" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-07-15T06:03:46.023" Score="3" ViewCount="915" Body="&lt;p&gt;I added a BLTouch to my Ender3v2.  Yay!  But my first layer is still as sketchy as it's ever been.&#xA;I've got the firmware updated, and I can see the auto-level process take place at the beginning of my print - I can watch the probe measure a 5x5 grid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I updated the start G-code in Cura to do a &lt;code&gt;G29&lt;/code&gt; immediately after the &lt;code&gt;G28&lt;/code&gt;, and I do see the auto-level sequence after homing at the beginning of all my prints, so things are happening.  But it doesn't seem like the auto-level has improved anything.  I've got single-layer test patterns that look OK on one part of the bed and look like the nozzle's crushed into the bed on another part.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most of the web help I've found implies that all I need to do is insert &lt;code&gt;G29&lt;/code&gt; in the start sequence.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But other places talk about saving the auto-level settings to the EEPROM, &lt;code&gt;M500&lt;/code&gt;/&lt;code&gt;M501&lt;/code&gt;; do I need to do that if I'm running a new auto-level immediately before every print?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And I've just this evening run across the &lt;code&gt;M420&lt;/code&gt; command, which looks awfully relevant; do I need to add an &lt;code&gt;M420 S1&lt;/code&gt; command to &lt;em&gt;use&lt;/em&gt; the auto-level mesh I just found with &lt;code&gt;G29&lt;/code&gt;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="34765" LastEditorUserId="34765" LastEditDate="2022-07-16T05:59:14.150" LastActivityDate="2022-07-16T05:59:14.150" Title="Installed BLTouch - what do I need to tell Cura? Just G29, or more to it?" Tags="|creality-ender-3|marlin|ultimaker-cura|bed-leveling|bltouch|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19655" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19652" CreationDate="2022-07-15T13:52:23.903" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are several issues at hand here, first you have an adhesion problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2CU9L.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2CU9L.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This print shows that the print (as it is printed upright) has come loose during printing and lifted up. Such a print should have been printed as it is now laying on your table. You will then also get far better quality of printed holes. So, second is print orientation on the build plate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MvN6n.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MvN6n.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This shows another example of adhesion problems, but it also shows that you initial distance between the nozzle and the bed is slightly too large. The paper method usually works fine, but you can use feeler gauges. Alternatively use a specific 3D print adhesion spray (3DLAC, Magigoo, DimaFix) or alternatively some &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/11183/&quot;&gt;hairsprays&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/15282/&quot;&gt;glue sticks&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Third, design. Just a tip, I see that your design uses some sort of a pin:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6UKxk.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6UKxk.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;you should avoid thin pole/spike like prints. These are difficult to print and usually very weak. Think of an alternative, an embedded shaft or a bolt is usually a much better solution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HZ2Cq.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HZ2Cq.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fourth, this shows that there was no filament printed, it could be that the spool had extra resistance or the filament was entangled. Check your filament spool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xQlzr.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xQlzr.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fifth, this shows that you have a retraction problem, the filament pressure is still too large when the head moves to the next coordinates, it then oozes until the pressure has been released. Changing retraction speed or distance may help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2024-02-02T23:16:30.883" LastActivityDate="2024-02-02T23:16:30.883" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19657" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19840" CreationDate="2022-07-16T15:53:11.103" Score="4" ViewCount="3865" Body="&lt;p&gt;Lately I've been having a lot of trouble with printing overhangs in TPU. The failures are very geometry/toolpath dependent, entirely reproducible in their location (same gcode gives same failures each time it's printed), and seem to occur where there is a convex (model-inward) curve over an overhang of more than 40° or so. My original test case for this was frog model with more severe overhang, but I since made a simplified conical overhang test piece at only 50° that's faster to reprint and shows the issue:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2Ny6d.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2Ny6d.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Two upside-down 3D printed frogs&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The frog print on the left is pretty much a complete failure. The one on the right is mostly a success, but shows some moderate flaws around one side (left, as viewed) and the front of the belly, and even slight flaws (hard to see in pic) around the other side of the belly. It was done using some of the mitigations described below.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ei5Lh.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ei5Lh.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;3 elongated conical test pieces - convex hull of two translations of a truncated cone with 8 mm diameter at bottom, rising 50°, turned upside down to show overhang print problems&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The test piece on the left is nearly perfect. The other two show varying degrees of the overhang problem I'm experiencing, and make it easier to see what exactly is happening than with the frog. The extrusion seems to bunch up, then get stretched out too thin, in an oscillating pattern that builds up and shifts with each layer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've tried printing overhangs significantly slower and reducing speed and acceleration quite a bit on the outer walls and even on the inner walls too, and none of that seems to help. Nor does increasing the number of walls or the wall line thickness help. However a number of things do seem to help, and it takes two or more of these in combination to get a mostly acceptable result at 0.2 mm layer height:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Increasing flow to a level where the extruded mass is the expected amount (this makes wall dimensions excess so I usually don't do it)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Taking the infill up to 20% or higher and using an infill pattern where the infill meets the walls frequently (gyroid 20% or more seems best; I'm trying not to do this because I want to final objects to be more flexible in some cases)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Increasing Klipper square corner velocity to 30+ so that the entire approximated curves are traversed at constant speed with no acceleration/deceleration&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Increasing Klipper PA smooth time window from 10ms to 40ms&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Generally I'm able to choose some subset of the above that works, but it ends up being a matter of per-model trial-and-error, wasting lots of time and materials if the settings don't work, so I'd like to figure out what's really going on here so I can make predictions about what will work and ideally get a base configuration that &amp;quot;always&amp;quot; works. Also, I still don't have this working at thinner layer heights, which I'd like to be able to use for better detail, as TPU is flow-bound not motion-bound and I could in theory print much higher detail at the same speed with thinner layers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My best guess at the root cause so far is that the overhanging walls simply do not have enough rigidity to avoid being displaced by the toolhead attempting to extrude against them, so any oscillation of the toolhead velocity or extrusion pressure causes them to deform in the pattern of the oscillation. Does this seem plausible, and if so, what might some other possible mitigations be?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For completeness, my printer is a heavily modified Ender 3 with (remote) direct drive extruder and fairly extreme cooling, but turning the cooling way down or even off (assuming sufficient layer time for passive cooling) does not seem to affect the behavior here significantly. So I think the question is mostly printer-agnostic and is really a matter of material behavior and slicing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastEditorUserId="11157" LastEditDate="2022-07-16T16:13:24.560" LastActivityDate="2022-09-27T08:51:37.023" Title="Root cause fix for TPU overhang failures" Tags="|print-quality|filament|print-material|tpu|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19659" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-07-17T10:43:51.960" Score="6" ViewCount="2565" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm a beginner in 3d printing, so please bear with me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I downloaded a zip with about 100 STL files. I now want to pick one or two to print. The names of the stl files are not very helpful so I need to look at them to find the ones I want. I can open all of them one by one using Cura, or Tinkercad, but that is a very slow and long process with so many files. Ideally I would like to have an overview of all the files in little previews so that I can get an idea what they are to narrow down which files I need to open to inspect the details.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a program with which I can do something like that? I'm on Linux, but tips about Windows/Mac software would also help since I can use it to search for Linux alternatives to that software. All tips are welcome!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26025" LastActivityDate="2022-07-17T22:48:21.293" Title="Easy way to visually inspect/preview large amount of stl files (on Linux)?" Tags="|slicing|software|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19660" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-07-17T11:30:37.127" Score="3" ViewCount="71" Body="&lt;p&gt;When printing the bottom\initial layers on an FDM printer using PLA, how slow can you go before hitting diminishing returns (the speed at which you gain no additional advantages in terms of print quality or adhesion).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm using an Ender 5 with stock firmware and no modifications. 0.4mm nozzle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="29097" LastActivityDate="2022-12-14T16:00:25.047" Title="Bottom layer print speed - When do you reach diminishing returns?" Tags="|fdm|speed|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19661" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19659" CreationDate="2022-07-17T11:35:58.087" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cura's probably your best bet.  You can select several STL files and it will open them all, (memory allowing) then try to place them for printing.  If they can't fit on your print bed the items get placed off to the side.  Clicking on the object will show its name in the lower-left, so you can go rename the file to be more representative.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tinkercad can only import one item at a time, and tops out at 25 Mbytes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12956" LastActivityDate="2022-07-17T11:35:58.087" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19662" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19659" CreationDate="2022-07-17T11:44:59.127" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are on Linux, and a little capable in programming or scripting, a very handy tool is &lt;a href=&quot;https://openscad.org/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;OpenSCAD&lt;/a&gt;. It can even be used from the command line from a shell.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can load in STL files and offset them in a graphical view or loop through a list.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2022-07-17T11:44:59.127" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19663" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19652" CreationDate="2022-07-17T12:06:25.617" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Adhesion&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Try raising your bed temperature a couple of degrees at a time.  Presumably your filament has some &amp;quot;suggested temperatures&amp;quot; on the spool, but they sometimes only give a hotend's temp.   For PLA some people get good results with a 50 degree C bed, I find nothing less than 60 degrees C.   Esun's rec seems to be 60-80 for the bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the hotend my esun PLA+ suggests 205-225 and I print at 218.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on the environment, draughts can upset things and trigger lifting.  If the printer is in a place where there are winds/breezes, or airconditioning that cycles on and off, the temperature fluctuations can start lifting.   Try putting your printer somewhere that there is no wind and air conditions are static.   I have a curtain around mine, and some people use enclosures made from popup laundry baskets or similar.  Doesn't have to be fancy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can try things with light layers of water-soluble gluestick on the bed, which works for me.  Others have had success in laying blue painter's tape on the bed but I found the heat made the adhesive a hot mess.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Orientation&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That pin will never work - 3D printing has layers and items are always weak along the layers.  So that part is a poor candidate for 3D printing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Instead, buy a large assortment box of M3 nuts and bolts.  These work much better than thin printed parts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, that large lid should be printed laying flat on its back.  Even the action of the bed moving around could be creating enough breeze to cool that part quickly and cause shrinkage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Design&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That dovetail at the foot of the box, as printed it will have a layer line right across the base.  Since that looks like the most economical way to print this part, you might consider making the dovetail a lot wider, and it may need a slight draught angle added to help the lid engage smoothly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The lid might spin around the pin and whack the dovetail clean off too - perhaps the two sidewalls should be raised so the lid only slides off in one direction?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Lack of filament&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Holes in a printed part are a kind of under-extrusion, and mean there's not enough plastic at that time.  If your roll of filament is under friction then the printer may not be able to pull it in fast enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also if the hotend isn't hot enough it may not be melting quick enough for your print speed, or there may be clogs in the nozzle from contaminations in the filament.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Suggestion&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Start by levelling the bed, and then print one item in your set.  Use a &amp;quot;brim&amp;quot; to improve adhesion, and it will be done first.  As your printer starts the job, watch it closely and manually adjust the bed on the fly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Imagine these as side-views:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;____ &lt;strong&gt;&lt;sub&gt;__&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; _____   Nozzle is way too low, you're scratching the bed&lt;br&gt;&#xA;____ &lt;strong&gt;__&lt;/strong&gt; ____   Nozzle is too low, so drop the bed down a bit.  The filament should have colour.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;____ &lt;strong&gt;&lt;sup&gt;__&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; ____   This is about right. &lt;br&gt;&#xA;____ &lt;strong&gt;o&lt;/strong&gt; _____   Nozzle is a bit too high&lt;br&gt;&#xA;____ &lt;strong&gt;O&lt;/strong&gt; _____   Nozzle is a lot too high&lt;br&gt;&#xA;____ &lt;strong&gt;&lt;sup&gt;O&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; _____   Filament is floating in the air which is sub-optimal&lt;br&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ideally you want to feel the printed filament line as a flattened line stuck to the bed, and not a round string lying on the print bed.  It should almost feel like the edges of a sticker.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, the printer is moving all the time.  Do not get in its way, and if you do block the motion in any direction then the print will likely be ruined.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12956" LastActivityDate="2022-07-17T12:06:25.617" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19664" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19659" CreationDate="2022-07-17T13:39:55.610" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Using the search terms, &amp;quot;linux stl viewer,&amp;quot; a number of results appear. One of the more promising programs, for Mac, Windows and Linux appears to be &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/fstl-app/fstl&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;fast stl viewer&lt;/a&gt;, aka fstl. Image from linked site. Instructions included on the linked site to make fstl the default viewer for STL files.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4jJl1.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4jJl1.png&quot; alt=&quot;fstl screen capture&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastActivityDate="2022-07-17T13:39:55.610" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19665" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19660" CreationDate="2022-07-17T13:44:26.367" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The primary objective of a slower print speed for the first one to two layers is to ensure a bonding to the build plate. Print quality is not likely to improve at speeds slower than the stick/no-stick speed. For a given brand and color of filament, there will be a binary assessment. &amp;quot;This speed sticks to the bed&amp;quot; versus &amp;quot;this speed doesn't stick to the bed.&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If there are quality variations in the print at different speeds, there may be other factors involved, such as extrusion rate, retraction distance, z-hop, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's difficult to consider a diminishing returns reference, as it's going to be &amp;quot;it works&amp;quot; or &amp;quot;it doesn't work.&amp;quot; The increase in print time for going slower isn't going to contain much value in this situation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To determine a specific speed requires experimentation. The default for your particular slicer in use is the starting point. One can increase the first layer speed by 5 mm / second and run a test. Examine the results for quality and adhesion. Increase by five for each succeeding test until the results become unacceptable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that different plastics will have different speeds. I've not experimented with changing the default speeds except for TPU, which requires slower speeds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may discover that you can get away with much higher speeds than the default with one particular filament brand and color, but changing brand or color may change the results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To address your comment, the two sections of your question appear to be opposites, but for both, only experimentation will find the specific range (not exact speed) you seek.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastEditorUserId="854" LastEditDate="2022-07-17T14:53:10.807" LastActivityDate="2022-07-17T14:53:10.807" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19666" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19693" CreationDate="2022-07-17T17:08:52.663" Score="0" ViewCount="302" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've just bought my first 3D printer (Malyan M200 V2). For the most part, it's been really good and I've had no issues, apart from when printing the first few layers the printer doesn't seem to extrude enough material and doesn't form the correct shape. Whether it's a circle, rectangle, or anything else. So for example I've printed the below part.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The raft prints perfectly:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XXKQh.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Photo of a printed raft&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XXKQh.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Photo of a printed raft&quot; title=&quot;Photo of a printed raft&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then when it starts the first few layers of the actual print it extrudes a bit of material which then hangs from the nozzle and is dragged about the surface of the raft before stopping as more material is extruded. So when the print finishes the first layer looks messy like the one below:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/p2uoq.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Photo of the first layer of a printed model showing printing errors&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/p2uoq.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Photo of the first layer of a printed model showing printing errors&quot; title=&quot;Photo of the first layer of a printed model showing printing errors&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But everything after the first few layers is perfect for example the top of the same print:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/A71OY.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Photo of the layers after the first of a printed model that doesn't showing any errors&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/A71OY.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Photo of the layers after the first of a printed model that doesn't showing any errors&quot; title=&quot;Photo of the layers after the first of a printed model that doesn't showing any errors&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've tried adjusting the temperature of the nozzle and the print bed neither has made a difference. The bed is level I've double-checked that. Trying to find the issue online keeps bringing me back to temperature or bed levelling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm using this &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B01N5SVFJS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;psc=1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;PrimaValue PLA Filament&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The leaflet in the box recommends printing at 210 °C, I've tried 210, 215, and 220 °C.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The print bed I've been keeping at 60 °C which seems to have been working but I've tried printing down to 45 °C on the print bed and the same issue occurs. I'm not sure what an ideal temperature is for PLA, I've seen some posts saying that a heated bed isn't needed for PLA and others saying that it should be heated to between 50-70 °C (my printer only heats up to 60 °C).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've looked at some of the settings in Cura and there are various settings for things like initial speed and first/last layer speed which sound like they might help but I don't know anything about them. I have tried slowing down the print but again I just watched it happen more slowly, albeit that did help some as that's when I've realised it doesn't appear to be pushing out enough material on the first few layers. Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="34784" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2022-07-17T20:09:19.720" LastActivityDate="2022-07-23T09:35:18.967" Title="First layers going funny" Tags="|print-quality|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19667" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19657" CreationDate="2022-07-17T17:19:45.853" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As best I can tell, the root cause really is that the affected walls are insufficiently rigid to build upon. In the frog model where even the &amp;quot;good&amp;quot; print was not perfect, the gyroid infill in that region, even when dense, was running parallel to the wall such that it did not lend as much rigidity as it otherwise would. The commonality between all the mitigations I looked at so far was that they either improve the rigidity of the wall or decrease the forces on the wall that might displace it when trying to print on top of it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm going to focus on increasing the rigidity, because decreasing forces does not sound like it can be done &lt;em&gt;consistently, independent of model geometry&lt;/em&gt;, at least not without going really slow and having fans extremely low or off. (Even though fan did not seem to be relevant to my test model, it absolutely will be if the model geometry happens to act as a fan duct.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First of all, with sloped outer surfaces, the thickness of material making up the surface is not the wall thickness (0.8 mm with two 0.4 mm walls), because you have to measure it perpendicular to the surface. At 45°, for example, it's scaled down by the square root of two (so about 71%), and gets worse as the angle gets more severe. Even 95A TPU is extremely flimsy at that sort of thickness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The slic3r family (including PrusaSlicer, SuperSlicer) has an option to mitigate this called &amp;quot;ensure vertical shell thickness&amp;quot;. Cura, which I'm using, doesn't, but you can ensure the same thing by increasing the number of &amp;quot;bottom layers&amp;quot; (or &amp;quot;top layers&amp;quot; for an inward-leaning surface, but those are much less difficult to print because the infill supports them) and ensuring that skin preshrink (&amp;quot;Skin Removal Width&amp;quot;) is not set so high as to remove the &amp;quot;bottom layers&amp;quot; that come into existence along outward sloped walls. The default of full wall width will remove it for all but the most severe overhangs, defeating the purpose, so it needs to be set lower. I use a setting of 0.39 mm, just below the line width, already for unrelated reasons, and that worked fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, on top of that, Cura defaults to printing one wall around skin (&amp;quot;Extra Skin Wall Count&amp;quot;), meaning most of the skin added as &amp;quot;bottom layers&amp;quot; would come out as a loop, rather than zigzag line fill. This is great when you want to print rigid materials fast, but also defeats the purpose, as an extra extrusion path alongside the 2 TPU walls already there does almost nothing to make them more rigid. You actually want the zigzag fill, alternating directions with each layer, as it adds &lt;em&gt;a lot&lt;/em&gt; of rigidity you otherwise can't get with TPU. So &amp;quot;Extra Skin Wall Count&amp;quot; should be set to 0 here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After making these changes, and using 5 bottom layers, I'm able to get successful prints of my test piece and the frog test with no other mitigations as long as I have the fan limited (using 30%, but my 30% is probably stronger than most printers' 100%, so likely not an issue for most folks). Using heavier flow further improves wall rigidity and makes it likely that fan doesn't matter, but it doesn't seem to be necessary. Using heavier infill is also not necessary; I can get nice squishy parts with only 10% gyroid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One nice feature modern Cura has is separate settings for &amp;quot;bottom layers&amp;quot; and &amp;quot;initial bottom layers&amp;quot;, so I can keep the latter lower and not waste material building on the bed surface while still getting strong diagonal walls and bottoms over supports.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;TL;DR&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Strengthen sloped walls by doing the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Increase number of bottom layers to at least 4 or 5&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ensure skin removal isn't removing skin along overhanging walls (reduce to below 0.4 mm)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Disable extra skin outlines&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastEditorUserId="11157" LastEditDate="2022-07-17T17:47:10.660" LastActivityDate="2022-07-17T17:47:10.660" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19668" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19659" CreationDate="2022-07-17T20:37:05.167" Score="6" Body="&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#!/bin/sh&#xA;&#xA;if [ ! -d thumb ] ; then&#xA;  mkdir thumb&#xA;fi&#xA;&#xA;for e in stl STL ; do&#xA;  for i in *.&lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$e  ; do&#xA;    j=`basename &quot;$&lt;/span&gt;i&amp;quot; .&lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$e`&#xA;    if [ ! -f thumb/&quot;$&lt;/span&gt;j&amp;quot;.png -o &amp;quot;&lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$i&quot; -nt thumb/&quot;$&lt;/span&gt;j&amp;quot;.png ] ; then&#xA;      echo &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$j&#xA;      echo &quot;import(\&quot;$&lt;/span&gt;i\&amp;quot;);&amp;quot; &amp;gt; x.scad&#xA;      openscad -o thumb/&amp;quot;$j&amp;quot;.png --imgsize=100,100 x.scad &#xA;    fi&#xA;  done&#xA;done&#xA;rm -f x.scad&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Quick and dirty script I've used to maintain a thumbnail directory.&#xA;It uses OpenScad to generate the default view for a part; not always the best view, but for most parts, this is sufficient.  Once you have the thumbnails, use gthumb or something to view them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28397" LastEditorUserId="28397" LastEditDate="2022-07-17T22:48:21.293" LastActivityDate="2022-07-17T22:48:21.293" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19669" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19666" CreationDate="2022-07-18T02:55:02.050" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Cura, you can indeed set the height of the first layer separate from the subsequent layers. So if the first layer is printing nicely, that's a good sign. That's usually the place prints fail. There are a few settings, but here are a few things to just double check:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is your nozzle set to the right size&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is your raft layer height and regular layer height wildly different? Try setting them to the same, or if same, try making them different. There may be a 'raft top thickness' that's wrong for the nozzle size, (try 0.2 for a 0.4 mm nozzle)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Layer height of your regular layers should be no greater than 80% of the nozzle width&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Print cooling (on), but initial fan speed (0)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Supports: try printing with, or without. Look at Enable Support Interface (or disable it)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Try just disabling your raft and see if it gets past the danger point. that will indicate if there's something misaligned with your Z.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check your axis rollers too! from this question, &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/q/8022/4762&quot;&gt;First 3 mm prints poorly, then fine after that&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11248" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2022-07-19T07:59:55.080" LastActivityDate="2022-07-19T07:59:55.080" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19670" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-07-18T06:22:19.673" Score="0" ViewCount="167" Body="&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm coming back to printing after almost a year of hiatus. Sliced a new model with the latest Cura 5.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I noticed my brim lines are thinning out or under extruding or Z height lowering near the starting point of the print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9ZnFr.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9ZnFr.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ikSjW.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ikSjW.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is only happening at this side which is where it finishes a wall/line and proceeds to the next inner wall/line.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At first I thought my bed was massively warped there but I noticed that the first line of the actual body print (outer wall) is totally fine as shown in the picture. I also tried shifting the print to the right but the issue presents itself again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know why this is happening? The Cura flow preview doesn't show any change in flow at this side. And looking at the G-code (labelled as skirt) section.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Edit with more info:&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are two images to help explain the issue further. The Cura slicer images represent the same print status as the previous images. This is the first layer and the outer wall has just started printing. From the real pictures, I was trying to point out that the outer wall prints fine while the brim lines are fading as it approaches the bottom right corner (where the brim started printing). The real pictures show the height difference clearly. I'm not sure why the brim lines are fading as it approaches the corner.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yb0vN.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yb0vN.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/12wAF.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/12wAF.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="34791" LastEditorUserId="34791" LastEditDate="2022-07-20T01:47:01.147" LastActivityDate="2022-07-20T01:47:01.147" Title="Printed line is thinning near the end before it proceeds to the next &quot;loop&quot;" Tags="|creality-ender-3|ultimaker-cura|underextrusion|brims|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19671" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19687" CreationDate="2022-07-18T07:41:50.733" Score="3" ViewCount="210" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've created a little enclosure for a project in sketchup&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/m8AB9.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/m8AB9.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I then exported the .STL&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I open it in Creality slicer 4.8 or Cura 5.0 It looks like this&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uD4eb.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uD4eb.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I thought that the red was &amp;quot;overhang that needs support&amp;quot; (but can also mean a shell?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hoever, that's not the irritating part. That would be the grey in the middle where the &amp;quot;hole&amp;quot; should be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I slice it, it looks like this:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ew0yy.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ew0yy.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I didn't notice this before I started printing and 4 hours into the print I noticed that it was just completely ignoring the window and was considering it as a part of the base.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why is it doing this and how can I fix it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've tried editing the original sketchup model a number of times, but I keep getting the same result.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I read the question and answer at &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/5068/empty-space-in-model-is-getting-filled&quot;&gt;Empty space in model is getting filled&lt;/a&gt; but I'm not 100% sure that this is the solution I'm looking for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The slicer, knows enough to see that the hole should be there, as it is rendering in a shaded area. It feels like there is a setting or some such that is &amp;quot;print the shaded area&amp;quot; with a checkbox (on or off) - and if that setting is there, someone please tell me where to find it!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've also tried importing the STL into other programs (like fusion 360) and RE-exporting the STL, but the issue persists.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Please note that  &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/13352/sketchup-designed-block-with-hole-printed-solid-in-cura&quot;&gt;this question&lt;/a&gt; seems to be similar to mine, however, there isn't an accepted answer. The one provided below is actually a much better answer.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="34792" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2022-07-25T15:52:10.957" LastActivityDate="2022-07-25T15:52:10.957" Title="Disparity between Sketchup STL and Slicer" Tags="|sketchup|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19672" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19671" CreationDate="2022-07-18T08:50:04.190" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sketchup is known for creating print-preventing problems of this nature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Consider to run your STL file through a checker that will determine if the model is manifold or has self-intersecting faces. One can use Meshmixer feature, Analysis, Inspector, or also Windows 3DBuilder, which will perform a repair if desired. It is possible that the repair will result in a filled space, however, which would require editing in the original program.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastActivityDate="2022-07-18T08:50:04.190" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19673" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19707" CreationDate="2022-07-19T01:20:44.100" Score="1" ViewCount="1845" Body="&lt;p&gt;The print is a collapsible sword I'm using as a test. Everything seems fine on the outside, but inside it seems the segment parts of the sword inside the hilt are fusing together at the seam lines causing them to stick together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Model&lt;/strong&gt;: &lt;a href=&quot;https://thangs.com/designer/3dprintingworld/3d-model/Collapsing%20Katana-22696&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://thangs.com/designer/3dprintingworld/3d-model/Collapsing%20Katana-22696&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Finished Print&lt;/strong&gt; (looks fine)&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DZa3o.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DZa3o.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Concentric blade pieces&lt;/strong&gt; (fuse marks that I sheared off and broke to get out)&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/peViY.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/peViY.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Seams on exterior of hilt look great&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2dxXC.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2dxXC.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Print settings/info&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Printer&lt;/strong&gt;: Prusa MK3S+&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Slicer&lt;/strong&gt;: PrusaSlicer 2.5.0a3&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Settings preset&lt;/strong&gt;: 0.15 mm QUALITY&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Filament&lt;/strong&gt;: Prusa PLA&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Nozzle temp&lt;/strong&gt;: 205 °C (default is 215 °C, but lower eases stringing and has never been a problem for many past prints)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Nozzle size&lt;/strong&gt;: 0.4 mm&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Full config&lt;/strong&gt;: &lt;a href=&quot;https://pastebin.com/ECa6KkYK&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://pastebin.com/ECa6KkYK&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="34796" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2022-07-19T07:45:26.377" LastActivityDate="2022-07-31T00:52:33.370" Title="Why are these concentric parts fusing together at seam lines?" Tags="|prusaslicer|stringing|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19675" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19666" CreationDate="2022-07-19T10:50:24.217" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;PLA doesn't need a raft.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Try printing without a raft. If you print with a raft because of adhesion problems, solve those first. A raft is only needed for filaments that shrink a lot and/or are printing at very high temperatures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want a raft, check the distance between raft and print object and know that a raft never gives a smooth bottom. This is because in order to prevent fusion of the print object to the raft a distance between the raft and the print object is accounted for. A property that controls the distance between the raft and the print object is called &lt;code&gt;Raft Air Gap&lt;/code&gt; in Ultimaker Cura. Default for my setup this is 0.3 mm which I find rather large.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example (not raft, but support with a solid top layer, which is quite similar to a raft), I have used support structures with a roof to support large flat overhanging areas that where printed at 0.2 mm distance, this gave relatively good surface quality and barely no fusion to the print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2022-07-19T10:59:32.560" LastActivityDate="2022-07-19T10:59:32.560" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19676" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19673" CreationDate="2022-07-19T12:05:15.107" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You did well to decrease the temperature. You could go even lower to 200°C&#xA;As you noticed, You really have a little bit of stringing between the elements. That's what binds the parts together. Many times when you print only a single part this will be no problem. With many nested parts, you retraction really has to be set to optimal values.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Try increasing the retraction distance in the slicer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4708" LastActivityDate="2022-07-19T12:05:15.107" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19677" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19666" CreationDate="2022-07-19T13:29:10.283" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It seems to me that the problem is over extrusion. Those temperatures might be a little high for this PLA. In my settings I usually put it on 200 or 205 °C (when printing faster). But the real problem might be a wrong extrusion multiplier for the first layers or a mixed with temperature, low speed, or no retraction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My advice:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Try a little bit lower temperature&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Try reducing the first layers extrusion multiplier&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Try increasing the retraction a little bit&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the problem of not extruding plastic at the beginning, you should print a purge line (as Ender 3 does) or print a skirt (instead of a raft, that you might not need). This problem is very normal and is easily fixed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bed temperature is correct for PLA (60 °C).&#xA;Maybe, only maybe, your nozzle is a little bit high. It should squash the plastic on over extrusion, which I think is not happening in your setup. My advice for this is to use a paper sheet and fold it once.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="34806" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2022-07-19T15:19:37.837" LastActivityDate="2022-07-19T15:19:37.837" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19680" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-07-21T02:23:36.273" Score="1" ViewCount="609" Body="&lt;p&gt;I’ve a Flashforge Adventurer 3 which I’ve found to be a fantastic out of the box ready to go printer. I’ve clocked up 500 hours on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I’ve had issues where the nozzle was too close to the print bed, making it impossible for the extruder wheel to force filament down the bowden tube. With harder filaments that results in clicking as it’s cog is skipping. With softer, usually matte PLA it’s just wearing a groove and no longer pushing. I have to take the then baked filament and manually push it out of the nozzle, then bed recalibration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a filament dryer, and use it every time I’m printing as it’s a perfect dispenser with it’s roller bearings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I recently keep getting prints where they start out perfect, but then after about layer 10, the extrusion simply stops. The printer obviously carries on like all is ok, but there’s not even spaghetti.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What could this be? Do I just need a new nozzle? I don’t understand how a metal nozzle printing plastic can deteriorate it. It’s not the same as pitting you get in a soldering iron tip surely…&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IdDcQ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IdDcQ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Edited with photo of hobbed gear as @fred_dot_u suggested&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EFz2Q.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EFz2Q.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Failed print. I’ve had several fail the same way. It’ll start out ok then the extrusion seems to fizzle out&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="32882" LastEditorUserId="32882" LastEditDate="2022-07-21T18:18:59.027" LastActivityDate="2022-07-26T13:59:34.493" Title="Why is my nozzle routinely clogging and no longer extruding mid otherwise successful print with several different previously successful filaments?" Tags="|flashforge-adventurer-3|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19682" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19680" CreationDate="2022-07-21T07:06:14.503" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Nozzles do degrade with use. That is why they're made to be easily replaceable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your problem may be a worn nozzle or incomplete cleaning or something with the bowden tube etc,. but an easy troubleshooting step is just to replace the nozzle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31811" LastEditorUserId="31811" LastEditDate="2022-07-21T12:36:13.767" LastActivityDate="2022-07-21T12:36:13.767" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19683" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-07-21T12:18:10.583" Score="1" ViewCount="2152" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been searching for hours for the reason why my Ender 3 Pro, after a perfect first layer, is scratching on the second layer and so on the next few, after that it normalizes and then prints normally.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I reduced the first layer height, but this gives other issues, changed bad and nozzle temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any possibility in PrusaSlicer to command the Z-stepper to go a little bit higher after the first layer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="34824" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2022-07-21T13:14:18.033" LastActivityDate="2022-12-18T16:04:45.630" Title="Nozzle scratching on second layer" Tags="|creality-ender-3|print-quality|prusaslicer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19684" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19683" CreationDate="2022-07-21T12:56:14.387" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is an issue that can be caused by a nozzle that is too close to the bed or you are over-extruding in the first layer. Basically, there is too much material in the space that is appointed for it, after a few layers this usually levels out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The initial distance between the nozzle and the bed usually is calibrated with the paper sheet method. If the gap is too small, the paper drags considerable, you should change the bed screws to give a little more space that the paper drags less. Alternatively use feeler gauges.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the nozzle is too close (if it touches the bed the filament flow will be hindered and you will hear a thumping noise) the filament flow may be too big so that the filament is thrusted upwards beside the nozzle (structure on the build late looks like a ploughed field). Filament is always over-extruded by the firmware in most slicers (Slic3r, on which PrusaSlicer is based, and e,g Cura do that), there are settings to reduce that, but these shouldn't be changed. You can look into increasing the first layer height a little, lift the whole print up (e.g. in Cura there is a plugin called &lt;code&gt;Z Offset Setting&lt;/code&gt; by developer fieldOfView available in the marketplace), or redefine the height of the first layer in your start G-code.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2022-07-21T12:56:14.387" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19686" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19671" CreationDate="2022-07-21T22:11:54.680" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The main issues with Sketchup are making sure the inner and outer direction of the surfaces are correct and deleting internal surfaces made by Sketchup, that shouldn't be there. My guess is the filled in hole in the middle is due to a setting in the slicer to fill in inner surfaces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15075" LastActivityDate="2022-07-21T22:11:54.680" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19687" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19671" CreationDate="2022-07-21T22:57:57.203" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Use Solid Inspector to fix problems&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Before exporting your Sketchup model to STL use Solid Inspector. It is available for free from the Sketchup extensions page and will detect reversed faces, stray edges, surface borders. The &amp;quot;main problems&amp;quot; mentioned above are then eliminated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19223" LastActivityDate="2022-07-21T22:57:57.203" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19688" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-07-22T00:05:32.607" Score="1" ViewCount="143" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I boot the Flsun Cube F5 with an MKS Gen L v1.0 controller board, it boots fine; it beeps, and all the LEDs come on. When I heat the hotend it works beautifully, and once up to temperature, the extruder motor feeds just like it should.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, when I turn on the heater of the build plate, it starts heating and after about 10-12 seconds the board, specifically the MOSFET at the heat bed connection quickly begins to get hot and starts to smoke. I feel if I let it continue, either the board would catch on fire or at least burn out the board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anybody have any suggestions as to how to fix this?  I still haven't tried the X, Y, and Z steppers yet, but that will be coming soon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="34680" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2022-07-22T10:07:56.483" LastActivityDate="2023-08-31T17:08:51.033" Title="MKS Gen L v1.0 smoking when I heat up the build plate" Tags="|marlin|troubleshooting|heated-bed|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19689" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19690" CreationDate="2022-07-22T02:19:35.210" Score="2" ViewCount="4344" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are there any safety risks inherent to PLA plastics used for 3D printing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The material safety data sheet of some PLA plastics indicates low risks at a toxicological level, but I'd like to make sure some other factor isn't overlooked.&#xA;(&lt;a href=&quot;https://printparts.com/datasheets/PLA-MSDS.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;1&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.nhh.com.hk/en/3dprinting/document/pla_classic/MSDS_PLA_Classic.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;2&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://wwwassets.e-ci.com/PDF/SDS/CI-D-07-PLA-3D-Printing-Filament.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;3&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;  &#xA;SECTION 11:  TOXICOLOGICAL INFORMATION   &#xA;&lt;hr&gt;  &#xA;PRINCIPLE ROUTES OF EXPOSURE: Eye contact, Skin contact, Inhalation, Ingestion.  &#xA;ACUTE TOXICITY: None noted during use.  &#xA;&lt;p&gt;LOCAL EFFECTS: Product dust may be irritating to eyes, skin and&#xA;respiratory system. Particles, like other inert materials, are&#xA;mechanically irritating to eyes. Ingestion may cause gastrointestinal&#xA;irritation, nausea, vomiting and diarrhea.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;SPECIFIC EFFECTS: May cause skin irritation and/or dermatitis.&#xA;Ingestion may cause gastrointestinal irritation, nausea, vomiting and&#xA;diarrhea. Inhalation of dust may cause shortness of breath, tightness&#xA;of the chest, a sore throat and cough. Burning produces irritant&#xA;fumes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;CHRNOIC TOXICITY: None noted during use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;REPRODUCTIVE TOXICITY: No data is available on the product itself.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;CARCINOGENIC EFFECTS: None of the components of this product are&#xA;listed as carcinogens by IARC, NTP, or OSHA.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22067" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2022-07-22T04:51:42.957" LastActivityDate="2022-07-25T03:25:24.403" Title="Are there any major safety risks of PLA plastic?" Tags="|pla|filament|safety|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19690" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19689" CreationDate="2022-07-22T11:43:10.353" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Extrusion of PLA through a nozzle can cause microparticles to be generated (referenced as &amp;quot;dust&amp;quot; in your document) which can be temporarily airborne.  If ingested through breathing for an extended period of time, this can cause respiratory distress.  Your document claims &amp;quot;no acute toxicity&amp;quot; from this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My personal experience is that:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Different plastics at different temperatures emit a variable amount of this dust.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A cloth mask effectively blocks it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The dust settles very quickly, in both time and distance.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The effects (for me at least) are irritation only (well described in your document), and disappear completely in a time proportional to the length of exposure, but not more than a day or so.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;PLA is not near as bad as other plastics like ABS.  But either of these burns is much worse.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The paper &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S2214785320391902&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&amp;quot;Review on particle emissions during fused deposition modeling of acrylonitrile butadiene styrene and polylactic acid polymers&amp;quot;&lt;/a&gt; goes into this in greater detail.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;There are probably others.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28397" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2022-07-24T13:14:07.603" LastActivityDate="2022-07-24T13:14:07.603" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19692" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-07-22T23:10:53.020" Score="1" ViewCount="1010" Body="&lt;p&gt;BLTouch enabled Ender 3 w/4.2.2 board running &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/mriscoc/Ender3V2S1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;mriscoc's Professional firmware&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How is it that the auto tramming can report the corners of the bed to be level, and then immediately afterwards it produces this mesh?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What am I missing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tiekC.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Photo of Ender 3v2 screen showing 'Corners leveled'&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tiekC.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Photo of Ender 3v2 screen showing 'Corners leveled'&quot; title=&quot;Photo of Ender 3v2 screen showing 'Corners leveled'&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PMvPA.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Photo of Ender 3v2 screen showing the Mesh Viewer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PMvPA.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Photo of Ender 3v2 screen showing the Mesh Viewer&quot; title=&quot;Photo of Ender 3v2 screen showing the Mesh Viewer&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14623" LastEditorUserId="36802" LastEditDate="2023-11-22T16:13:06.690" LastActivityDate="2023-11-22T16:13:06.690" Title="Uneven mesh after perfect auto tramming?" Tags="|bed-leveling|mriscoc|tramming|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19693" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19666" CreationDate="2022-07-23T09:35:18.967" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hi Thanks for all the suggestions. I've been experimenting with various prints using some of the different settings and it appears that I needed to increase the initial layer height. Now the first layers are printing as they should.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="34784" LastActivityDate="2022-07-23T09:35:18.967" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19694" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19336" CreationDate="2022-07-23T10:01:38.973" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;As I've seen in todays video from Makers Muse, he also says that these belts can lengthen over time: &lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/-cm1vIER_bk?start=338&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt; (Link with time code)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user31236" LastActivityDate="2022-07-23T10:01:38.973" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19696" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19689" CreationDate="2022-07-25T03:25:24.403" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are concerned about inhalation (and I think you should be), you should use a hierarchy of controls to mitigate the risk.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;NIOSH (part of the CDC) have a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.cdc.gov/niosh/docs/2020-115/default.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;good document outlining how to mitigate the risks of 3D printing particulate emissions.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that the smell you experience may be VOCs, not particles. Both are important to block. To do so, use a respirator with both particulate and organic vapour filters, in addition to an air purification/local exhaust ventilation system. The ‘carbon filters’ often seen in 3D printers do almost nothing for particulates, only nuisance levels of vapours.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="34851" LastActivityDate="2022-07-25T03:25:24.403" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19697" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4982" CreationDate="2022-07-25T19:16:32.723" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Adding this as a new answer since it doesn't seem to be covered in existing ones:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Despite &amp;quot;PLA+&amp;quot; being a marketing term without a specific definition, I've found that many (most?) filament vendors don't seem to be doing their own secret-sauce blending to make it, and most premium filament vendors who &lt;em&gt;do document&lt;/em&gt; the source polymers they use are using roughly the same thing - most often one of the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.natureworksllc.com/Products/3D-series-for-3D-printing&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Natureworks Ingeo 3D series of polymers&lt;/a&gt;, obtained in pellet source form, often 3D850 or 3D870. As such, if you can verify that this is what you filament marketed as &amp;quot;PLA+&amp;quot; is made from (or just search out one that's well-documented) you can use the data sheets for the polymer to find out more about how it's formulated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2022-07-25T19:16:32.723" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19699" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-07-26T12:59:11.447" Score="2" ViewCount="1175" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found a similar question in the forum but now need assistance on how to replace the X-axis endstop. I have been scouring for videos and haven't found one yet.  Can anyone help me?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The printer turns on, preheats but as soon as I choose a print, it goes to the right and just continues to run. It only stops when I turn it off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did a factory reset and no luck. I ordered the new parts but really don't know where to start. It looks like the wires for the endstop run into the body of the machine so it looks like I will be taking the whole thing apart. I am quite nervous about this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="34864" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2022-07-26T13:07:00.900" LastActivityDate="2022-07-27T11:41:59.140" Title="Flashforge Adventurer 3 - how to replace X-axis endstop" Tags="|homing|endstop|flashforge-adventurer-3|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19700" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19680" CreationDate="2022-07-26T13:59:34.493" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have had this happen at times. I finally got it to go away once I fixed my bed adhesion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By chance is your print curling up near the edges? If it's popping up and exerting backpressure on the extruder, that can be enough to cause an internal jam and the extruder &amp;quot;clicking&amp;quot; (which is itself just a sign that the plastic isn't feeding).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There might be additional problems or other causes, but this was what fixed my issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user14313" LastActivityDate="2022-07-26T13:59:34.493" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19701" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19699" CreationDate="2022-07-27T11:41:59.140" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is not a &amp;quot;how to&amp;quot; to replace the X end stop; this post is meant as a description of the location of the X-axis end stop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;End stops are generally located on the minimum of the axis, but there are exceptions, e.g. Ultimaker has the Z-axis end stop at the bottom, this is the maximum. For the X-axis, end stops can be located on the print head, but more commonly found on the minimum value of the X-axis. The Flashforge Adventurer 3 has the X-axis end stop mounted in the print head.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The image below shows the overview of the X gantry:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qNv7v.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qNv7v.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note the flag on the right (encircled in red):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CQgpF.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CQgpF.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The flag enters (on &lt;a href=&quot;/q/18453&quot;&gt;homing&lt;/a&gt;) the rectangular slot on the top rigt, see below:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/R2LBY.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/R2LBY.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, this is where the X-axis end stop is located. This implies that the print head needs to be disassembled.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The X-axis end stop module can be found online as a replacement part, the back looks like this&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JiWgT.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JiWgT.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and the front like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jIJSv.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jIJSv.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It appears that you can &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/x-TyfVOtsg4?t=220&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;take off the top of the printhead cover&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iaqrG.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iaqrG.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will instantly see that the end stop module can be found there! It takes 2 screws to replace it (and some connectors!).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2022-07-27T11:41:59.140" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19702" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-07-27T16:01:28.190" Score="2" ViewCount="104" Body="&lt;p&gt;So, backstory: I setup a tuning print for Klipper input shaper that makes use of matched speed projected onto the opposite axis at junctions, and high instantaneous junction velocity (scv), to allow them to be taken in a way that only one axis experiences an impulse. The idea here was to get measurement noise from the other axis's resonances out of the measured ringing. And that seems to have worked fine. But I also found something very interesting:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The magnitude of ringing, and even whether it appears &lt;em&gt;at all&lt;/em&gt;, is dependent on the direction of the acceleration/deceleration impulse. When the motion of the axis is away from the motor and abruptly stops, there is essentially no measurable ringing. But when the motion of the axis is towards the motor and abruptly stops, there is strong ringing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this normal? It seems plausible via one or more mechanisms:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Belt run all the way around the idler and back to the motor, which is doing the pulling in this direction, is far longer and has more elasticity&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Idler is untoothed, so maybe the teeth compress against the smooth idler and act as a spring&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;... ?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The printer is an Ender 3 original with lots of modifications, but none of them to the motion system. The observations above apply to both the X and Y axis, but the X axis is so light that it requires extreme levels of acceleration to see the issue anyway, so I'm not concerned about it. The Y axis is where the problem is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Seeing how good I have this in one direction (towards the motor) makes me really want to find a solution that gets equally good results in both directions, as it would allow me to up my outer wall print acceleration for high quality up from 500-2000 to 5000+ and max acceleration up to 30000+ - the limiting factor is the bad ringing from one direction on this axis.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What approaches should I try to mitigate this (and confirm it's the issue)? I'm thinking of:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Going dual-Y-motor with the second Y motor mounted at the front of the printer, so both directions are &amp;quot;motor pulling on short segment of belt&amp;quot;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Replacing belt. It's the original Creality supplied one and some folks have suggested a genuine Gates belt would not have this issue.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a photo of the test print:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iZYlt.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iZYlt.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;3D print of a Z-direction-extruded rectangle with a trapezoidal segment subtracted from the middle of the long side&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The extrusion path was clockwise around the part (right to left on the side facing the camera and front of the printer/bed). Acceleration, scv, and input shaper settings were adjusted manually during the print to give different views of the ringing. The important detail is that there's almost no ringing in the middle flat section, except at the very top where input shaper was turned off completely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastEditorUserId="11157" LastEditDate="2022-07-27T16:08:55.210" LastActivityDate="2023-12-20T04:05:35.650" Title="Are resonances of belt driven carriage strongly direction dependent? Mitigations?" Tags="|print-quality|linear-motion|belt|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19703" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19702" CreationDate="2022-07-27T22:37:25.770" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, at least not to the extent the above result suggests. I had the idea to try rotating the piece 180° around the Z axis, and got nearly the same effect: low ringing in the middle segment, strong ringing on the final segment. So what is the explanation?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The impulse intended to start the ringing for the middle segment is exactly opposite the impulse that ended the first segment, and generates a time-shifted ringing of opposite sign, &lt;strong&gt;cancelling out with the tail of the ringing from the previous impulse&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Overall, the ringing does seem to be &lt;em&gt;somewhat&lt;/em&gt; stronger in this rotation, so I think my original hypothesis that there's an effect related to belt length or the idler is still plausible, but it's nowhere near as dominant as I thought.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Further investigation of this seems to call for a better-designed test piece without cancelling impulse responses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2022-07-27T22:37:25.770" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19704" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-07-29T00:35:37.407" Score="1" ViewCount="542" Body="&lt;p&gt;I print using a heated chamber but need to use a BLTouch to level my print bed.&#xA;I followed the pictures in the Reddit post &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/comments/jj0s9r/comment/hpp845a/?utm_source=share&amp;amp;utm_medium=web2x&amp;amp;context=3&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&amp;quot;Bltouch working temperature and fail&amp;quot;&lt;/a&gt; and moved the brains of my BLTouch outside the enclosure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The BLTouch now does not have any failures in the 60 °C chamber, however, it now probes the bed distance in a range of about .075 mm, all the time, not affected by temperature. I found that by running &lt;code&gt;M48&lt;/code&gt;, the max and min of the sample of probes are still extremely consistent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would like to be able to run &lt;code&gt;M48&lt;/code&gt; and take a sample of probes, then average the max and min of that output and use that for my homing location in replace of &lt;code&gt;G28&lt;/code&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This would let me get precise homing in my heated chamber using the BLTouch. Here is the output from running &lt;code&gt;M48&lt;/code&gt; with 14 probes each time:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;&amp;gt;&amp;gt;&amp;gt; M48 P14&#xA;SENDING:M48 P14&#xA;M48Z-Probe Repeatability Test&#xA;Finished!&#xA;Mean: -0.040536 Min: -0.069 Max: 0.006 Range: 0.075&#xA;Standard Deviation: 0.030517&#xA;&amp;gt;&amp;gt;&amp;gt; M48 P14&#xA;SENDING:M48 P14&#xA;M48Z-Probe Repeatability Test&#xA;Finished!&#xA;Mean: -0.025357 Min: -0.068 Max: 0.007 Range: 0.076&#xA;Standard Deviation: 0.030524&#xA;&amp;gt;&amp;gt;&amp;gt; M48 P14&#xA;SENDING:M48 P14&#xA;M48Z-Probe Repeatability Test&#xA;Finished!&#xA;Mean: -0.026027 Min: -0.069 Max: 0.012 Range: 0.081&#xA;Standard Deviation: 0.034820&#xA;»&amp;gt;› M48 P14&#xA;SENDING:M48 P14&#xA;M48Z-Probe Repeatability Test&#xA;Finished!&#xA;Mean: -0.015313 Min: -0.065 Max: 0.009 Range: 0.074&#xA;Standard Deviation: 0.028993&#xA;&amp;gt;&amp;gt;› M48 P14&#xA;SENDING:M48 P14&#xA;M48Z-Probe Repeatability Test&#xA;Finished!&#xA;Mean: -0.026429 Min: -0.066 Max: 0.012 Range: 0.078&#xA;Standard Deviation: 0.032845&#xA;»›› M48 P14&#xA;SENDING:M48 P14&#xA;M48Z-Probe Repeatability Test&#xA;Finished!&#xA;Mean: -0.019286 Min: -0.059 Max: 0.009 Range: 0.069&#xA;Standard Deviation: 0.028283&#xA;33› M48 P14&#xA;I SENDING:M48 P14&#xA;M48Z-Probe Repeatability Test&#xA;Finished!&#xA;Mean: -0.006696 Min: -0.062 Max: 0.011 Range: 0.072&#xA;Standard Deviation: 0.022003&#xA;»&amp;gt;› M48 P14&#xA;SENDING:M48 P14&#xA;M48Z-Probe Repeatability Test&#xA;Finished!&#xA;Mean: -0.022500 Min: -0.061 Max: 0.011 Range: 0.072&#xA;Standard Deviation: 0.031366&#xA;ass M19 D1A&#xA;SENDING:M48 P14&#xA;M48Z-Probe Repeatability Test&#xA;Finished!&#xA;Mean: -0.026339 Min: -0.063 Max: 0.012 Range: 0.076&#xA;Standard Deviation: 0.032574&#xA;»&amp;gt;› M48 P14&#xA;SENDING:M48 P14&#xA;M48Z-Probe Repeatability Test&#xA;Finished!&#xA;Mean: -0.025089 Min: -0.064 Max: 0.014 Range: 0.078&#xA;Standard Deviation: 0.032170&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Min and max data typed out:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;-.076       .001&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;-.069       .006&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;-.068        .007&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;-.069        .012&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;-.065        .009&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;-.066        .012&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;-.059        .009&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;-.062        .011&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;-.061        .011&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;-.063        .012&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;-.064        .014&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am relatively experienced in post-processing G-code and have done some editing of firmware for my printer (Ender 3 v2), however, I am not close to being an expert in either.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="34886" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2022-07-29T04:47:11.423" LastActivityDate="2022-07-29T04:47:11.423" Title="BLTouch fix for heated enclosure" Tags="|marlin|bltouch|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19705" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-07-30T19:52:40.483" Score="2" ViewCount="226" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have just upgraded my mobo to a Duet 3 WiFi clone (FLY-RRF-E3) and installed a BLTouch. When I try to run true bed leveling the Touch probes off of the bed like in the Reddit post &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/comments/jim123/ender_3_bltouch_probes_off_the_bed_anyone_know/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&amp;quot;Ender 3 bltouch probes off the bed. Anyone know what to change in the firmware to fix this?&amp;quot;&lt;/a&gt; I have tried to change the X and Y offsets with &lt;code&gt;M851&lt;/code&gt; as described in the link, but the RepRap firmware does not respect the changes. Then, I read in the &lt;a href=&quot;https://docs.duet3d.com/User_manual/Reference/Gcodes&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Duet3D Documentation&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Innn   Parameter - X-offset in arc move (Not yet implemented in RepRapFirmware); integral (Ki) in PID Tuning; signal inversion&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Jnnn   Parameter - Y-offset in arc move (Not yet implemented in RepRapFirmware)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, I read that there is a &lt;code&gt;G31&lt;/code&gt; command which is similar to the &lt;code&gt;M851&lt;/code&gt; command, so I tried that. Still, no dice. Here is what I currently have in the Z-probe section of my &lt;code&gt;config.h&lt;/code&gt; file.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;;M558 P0 H6 F120 T8000                ; disable Z probe but set dive height, probe speed and travel speed&#xA;;G31 X0 Y0 Z0                         ; no probe offsets&#xA;;BL Touch Z-Probe settings&#xA;M558 P9 H6 F250:30 T8000 C&amp;quot;^probe&amp;quot;    ; set Z probe type to bltouch and the dive height + speeds&#xA;G31 X-41.0 Y-5.0 Z0                   ; no probe offsets&#xA;M950 S0 C&amp;quot;Servo0&amp;quot;                     ; Setup Servo0 as servo port on Fly-E3&#xA;;bltouch offset&#xA;;M851 X-41 Y-5&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Firmware: RepRapFirmware for STM32F4 based Boards 3.4.0_1 (2022-03-17)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: Initially, I installed my BLTouch incorrectly because it has different wire colors.&#xA;P.S. My glass bed is true, so if a possible solution is too costly then it wouldn't be worthwhile. Thanks for reading.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="34883" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2022-07-30T22:03:16.180" LastActivityDate="2022-07-30T22:03:16.180" Title="BLTouch probes off the print bed" Tags="|bltouch|reprap|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19706" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-07-30T23:37:17.560" Score="0" ViewCount="2243" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there a known issue where the Y-stepper gets extremely hot (like 70-80 °C) on the Creality 4.2.2 board while the Y stepper stays around 40 °C on the 4.2.7 board? (two different printers)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Set both of them to run a custom G-code file where it just moves the bed back and forth from 20 to 200 at F1500 (took that from the printer startup code in Cura).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's not the motor. I had another Ender to borrow one from.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The strangest thing is it happens even when idle. (I did the aforementioned test with the X stepper, which did not get hot at all, but the Y stepper did while the bed was not moving at all).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14623" LastEditorUserId="1690" LastEditDate="2022-08-30T20:52:33.977" LastActivityDate="2024-01-23T00:06:50.773" Title="Y-stepper very hot on 4.2.2 board?" Tags="|creality-ender-3|stepper|heat-management|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19707" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19673" CreationDate="2022-07-31T00:52:33.370" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;After some trial and error I found that the issue was stringing due to excess moisture in the filament from being stored outside of a sealed low-humidity container for long periods.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After placing it in a heated dehydrator for 2 days, my next print had low stringing and did not bond interlaced parts together significantly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="34796" LastActivityDate="2022-07-31T00:52:33.370" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19709" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19706" CreationDate="2022-07-31T07:12:27.247" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Creality 4.2.2 board uses A4988 stepper drivers which set the current through the steppers via a potentiometer on the driver itself. The Creality 4.2.7 board used 2208 (Trinamic) stepper drivers, of which the current through the steppers is defined in the advanced configuration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the motor runs hotter on the first (4.2.2 board) you need to adjust the potentiometer to the correct Vref (reference voltage).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.all3dp.com/2/vref-calculator-tmc2209-tmc2208-a4988/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;All3D.com&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Vref is calculated with a simple formula:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Vref ​= I​ x 8 x Rsense&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Where I is the driver current to the motors and Rsense is the current sense resistor. While I is primarily defined by the motor’s rated current, Rsense is a fixed value that can be verified by checking the stepstick board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sense resistors vary from vendor to vendor, ranging from 0.05 up to 0.2 Ω. Look for two equal resistors in the A4988, as shown in the image above. In this example, R100 is 100 mΩ, or 0.1 Ω.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although the stepper motor we’ll use here is rated for 0.9 A, we should never set it to its maximum current capacity. It’s strongly recommended to reduce the amount of current to the motor by at least 10%, which in our case would translate to approximately 0.8 A.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want the second to use more current, and thus run hotter, the current specification needs to be increased. You can alter this in the configuration or use &lt;code&gt;M906&lt;/code&gt; G-code.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2022-07-31T09:03:21.753" LastActivityDate="2022-07-31T09:03:21.753" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19710" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-07-31T11:32:27.813" Score="1" ViewCount="203" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am new to 3D printing. I own jewelry stores and want to 3D print my jewelry packaging for rings, necklaces, and bangles as in the picture below:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NVwgE.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Product photo of a jewelry ring box&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NVwgE.png&quot; alt=&quot;Product photo of a jewelry ring box&quot; title=&quot;Product photo of a jewelry ring box&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have two main problems:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Is 3D printing capable of building this package?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I know I can build boxes for jewelry with the outside being made of plastic. But I want the inside to be like a sponge. Is there a filament or a way to print a filament to make it look like cloth or a sponge?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Are there printers on the market which are able to print several copies without the need to set up each time it finishes a single box?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="34898" LastEditorUserId="34923" LastEditDate="2022-08-02T16:47:08.787" LastActivityDate="2022-08-05T11:14:06.967" Title="Is it possible to build a sponge-like surface using 3D printing?" Tags="|3d-models|3d-design|desktop-printer|filament-choice|multi-material|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19711" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19710" CreationDate="2022-07-31T15:39:48.170" Score="1" Body="&lt;h1&gt;With the right materials&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With the right material, you can get flexible surfaces and prints. Just two random examples:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;TPU is a flexible material, which can be used to print something like &amp;quot;Lips&amp;quot; that flex and take the jewelry or even strings that suspend the piece in the center.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Foaming TPU is a variant of normal TPU that expands during printing. This makes it somewhat spongey.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, those have downsides: they don't make good rigid shells, so you will need two different materials: one hard for the shell, and something flexible for the holder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Luckily, any direct drive filament printer can work with flexible filaments, and there are some flexible filaments that work with a Bowden setup. Due to dissimilar materials though, you need to either assemble the part or buy a somewhat specialized printer: one with two nozzles. These are available but are way out of hobby-grade pricing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, you will never get the &amp;quot;smooth&amp;quot; silky look of a fabric insert cover, but always a clearly industrial printed surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2022-07-31T15:45:27.877" LastActivityDate="2022-07-31T15:45:27.877" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19712" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19715" CreationDate="2022-07-31T18:55:04.073" Score="2" ViewCount="494" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm quite new to 3D CAD and printing.&#xA;I own a Dremel 3D45 and I use FreeCad / Ultimaker Cura as softwares.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is pretty simple.&#xA;Say you have to make one object with a pin and another with a hole. They should be coupled together. Of course if you set the diameters of the pin and the hole equal the won't fit!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Right now I'm setting the hole larger of 0.2 mm and the pin smaller of 0.2 mm. This allow a quite good coupling (not so hard but with some resistance).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I guess this tolerance (0.4 mm in my example) depends on a lot of variables: 3D printer settings, material, etc... so it may change using different setup.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How to correctly handle this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I add a variable in my CAD spreadsheet and use it to change the nominal diameter of the coupling items?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't think so, but anyway: is there a settings in Ultimaker Cura that allow to compensate an hole or a pin by a specified amount?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any other suggestion is gladly accepted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21979" LastActivityDate="2022-08-11T15:15:58.523" Title="How to take in account tolerances when coupling" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|3d-design|cad|freecad|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19715" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19712" CreationDate="2022-08-02T02:59:22.553" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I guess this tolerance (0.4 mm in my example) depends on a lot of variables: 3D printer settings, material, etc... so it may change using different setup.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tolerances required &lt;strong&gt;depend on the geometry you're printing&lt;/strong&gt;. A hole that is horizontal, vertical, or diagonal will need different tolerance (as I found out in a project that used the same steel dowel pins in three different orientations). And, vertical holes and pins are different from flat-sided shapes: the plastic will be pulled toward the center of a curve, so diameters come out small (and more so for holes since there's no material further inward to resist the movement).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, I think you can expect that the distortions of printing are fairly consistent, if your printer is functioning well. I have a Prusa i3 MK3S, and I have printed many parts other people have designed, and &lt;em&gt;when&lt;/em&gt; those parts have been designed carefully, I almost always get very good fits between parts. So, my experience suggests that models do not necessarily need tuning for specific printers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I add a variable in my CAD spreadsheet and use it to change the nominal diameter of the coupling items?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes. If nothing else, this allows you to define how the two parts &lt;em&gt;should&lt;/em&gt; fit together separately for the printing error. Use separate numbers for different shapes/fits, so that you can adjust one without messing up another.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10321" LastActivityDate="2022-08-02T02:59:22.553" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19716" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19712" CreationDate="2022-08-02T07:04:08.020" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I guess this tolerance (0.4 mm in my example) depends on a lot of variables: 3D printer settings, material, etc... so it may change using different setup.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, this is true, you need to find out for yourself on your rig. Fine tune the printer. Note that filament also shrinks, although some less than others.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you figured it out, you can address the tolerance in the CAD design. E.g. I used to print with a material that has a lot of shrinkage, once you established the level of shrinkage, I scaled the complete model accordingly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2022-08-02T07:04:08.020" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19717" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19718" CreationDate="2022-08-02T08:22:09.037" Score="2" ViewCount="200" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm using Ultimaker Cura and a Dremel 3D45S with an eSun Nylon filament.&#xA;As starting point I'm using the default settings of the printer, 260 °C for the hotend and 80 °C for the bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These are the results:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dfKc9.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dfKc9.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pW3Hv.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pW3Hv.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jgLhd.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jgLhd.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition to the poor print quality, the resulting dimensions are wrong. For example, the cylinder is supposed to have a wall thickness of 5 mm, with an inner diameter of 35 mm and the outer diameter of 45 mm. With ABS they are quite good (just a 0.2 mm difference). With nylon they are off by 1 mm! The wall has a thickness of 6 mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For both materials the flow is set to 100 %&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas on what I should change to improve the printing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here my current settings for Nylon:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CMpbi.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CMpbi.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21979" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2022-08-02T18:23:16.200" LastActivityDate="2022-08-02T18:23:16.200" Title="How to fix these issues with Nylon?" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|nylon|dremel-3d45|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19718" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19717" CreationDate="2022-08-02T08:38:29.830" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you look up the &lt;a href=&quot;https://plasticranger.com/what-is-shore-hardness-scale/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;hardness&lt;/a&gt; of Nylon with respect to ABS you will find that ABS is generally much harder. The effect of softer filament is that the teeth of the extruder feeder dig in more into the filament (so for every rotation of the gear, less material is extruded than in hard filament), if you do not correct for this (lower the extrusion flow modifier) you are under-extruding material.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is clearly not happening in your case!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The effects you see are caused by over-extrusion. This can cause the effects you see on the outside of your print and also result in dimensional inaccuracies. You need to tune the printer for different materials. Try to extrude 100 mm of filament and see how much is being extruded (mark some filament from a reference point and redo the measurement after extrusion).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also make sure the filament is dry, Nylon tends to take up moisture which can bubbling (boiling the moisture) during extrusion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2022-08-02T18:20:43.920" LastActivityDate="2022-08-02T18:20:43.920" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19719" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19720" CreationDate="2022-08-02T12:01:16.207" Score="2" ViewCount="565" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an Artillery Hornet printer that I am very satisfied with. I make my models in Blender, export them as STL files, and import them into Cura slicer. Everything works great with no problems, mostly. But yesterday, I made a model that I used a reference image in Blender (deleted it before exporting then). And when I printed it, direct afterward, the printer unloads the filament. I tried to print it multiple times and every time it did the same. No big problem then, but a bit annoying.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone have any idea what could cause this, and how to prevent it? Other models I make in Blender have not given me that result then. I still have not tried making other models with a reference image to compare the result. So I found this place first and try to ask if someone knows about that problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the end G-code:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;G1 E-6 F9000&#xA;M104 S0 T0 ; turn off temperature&#xA;M140 S0 ; turn off bed&#xA;G1 X110 Y220 F10000&#xA;M84 ; disable motors&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="34922" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2022-08-03T17:11:34.093" LastActivityDate="2022-08-03T17:11:34.093" Title="My printer unloads the filament, after I finished the print" Tags="|filament|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19720" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19719" CreationDate="2022-08-02T13:03:39.950" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I haven't used your printer type, but &lt;a href=&quot;https://top3dshop.com/blog/artillery-hornet-3d-printer-review&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this link suggests&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your printer unloads the filament after each printing session&#xA;automatically, you might want to check the end code of your machine&#xA;and disable the retraction (;G1 E-6 F9000).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="55" LastActivityDate="2022-08-02T13:03:39.950" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19721" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19723" CreationDate="2022-08-03T16:06:35.867" Score="8" ViewCount="2311" Body="&lt;p&gt;A couple of days ago I got my first 3D printer: Creality 3D Ender 3 Pro. I finished assembling it last night. I booted it up, but ran into problems (which I guess is not a common thing for a beginner in 3D printing). After booting and running the motors, it seemed that the lead screw got stuck about halfway down the Z-axis. I heard a rattling sound. So I turned the 3D-printer off. I disassembled the lead screw and applied some Lithium lubricant on it. But the problem persisted. Looking more closely at it, I noticed some notches on the lead screw:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried to spin the Creality Z-axis stepper motor, and it felt smooth and did not have any resistance. The bolts on the rod holder were slighly loose so that the lead screw had a bit of play inside.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Im wondering if the lead screw may have been defect during manufacturing process? Are lead screws supposed to have notches like these, or are these manufacturing defects? Here's two photos of the lead screw:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WufoV.jpg&quot; width=&quot;320&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mzN12.jpg&quot; width=&quot;320&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Im guessing the notches are too deep for the z-axis to actually work the way it is supposed to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="34928" LastActivityDate="2022-08-11T11:10:28.800" Title="Assembled my first 3D-printer: Lead screw problem?" Tags="|creality-ender-3|z-axis|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19722" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19721" CreationDate="2022-08-03T17:12:59.730" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;The notches are certainly abnormal. The screw appears to have taken an impact from a narrow cylindrical object. It's normal for rods and screws to be packaged independently, frequently wrapped in paper for shipping. The notches seem to be just a bit too small to have taken an impact from one of the guide rods, but it's difficult to determine from the image.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It could have been dropped, but that doesn't explain the notch shape. A fall would have flattened faces, not notched them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's time to contact the seller about replacement parts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastActivityDate="2022-08-03T17:12:59.730" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19723" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19721" CreationDate="2022-08-03T17:41:08.743" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;The threads of the screw are very damaged, this causes your brass nut to be damaged as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is hardly accountable by misusage, this is a production or handling error in the factory.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You need to contact the vendor for a new screw and new threaded brass nut.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although the nut is softer and may run in on the damaged threads, there will always be a rough part of the screw, so it will always affect print quality, please replace the damaged parts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2022-08-11T11:10:28.800" LastActivityDate="2022-08-11T11:10:28.800" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19724" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19721" CreationDate="2022-08-04T00:52:40.280" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Both of the above answers are likely correct &lt;strong&gt;but also,&lt;/strong&gt; I own an Ender 3 and it's kinda/sorta tricky to get it set up right.  I had a similar problem and I was certain it was the lead screw -- and mine indeed does not have the marks that yours has -- but in the end the issue was that I had assembled the printer ever-so-slightly out of true, and I had to do a lot of adjusting and wobbling to get things lined up right. So just be prepared for that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes I think the rod is damaged and send back for a replacement, but when it comes back be sure and triple-check that everything is adjusted properly following videos like &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dQ0q9zLygTY&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt;.  You might also need to spend a little bit more money to replace some of the stock parts to really get it dialed in but once you do you won't be disappointed!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="34934" LastActivityDate="2022-08-04T00:52:40.280" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19725" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19596" CreationDate="2022-08-04T16:49:56.313" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Have you tried the .bin files on the SD Card and flashing it that way? If not, you can always use the slicer software that came with it like Creality or I use Cura and through the USB try re-flashing the software that way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27003" LastActivityDate="2022-08-04T16:49:56.313" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19726" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19565" CreationDate="2022-08-04T16:53:46.257" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had issues with my all metal hot-end where I got heat creep. I ended up doing e-steps, PID tune, and ensuring my speed wasn't too slow either. Is your printer in an enclosure? I found that mine being in an enclosure caused the hotend to not cool sufficiently, so I had to lower the hot bed temp by 10 degrees and that seems to have resolved my issue for heat creep. I also have the Hero Me fan housing which improves airflow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27003" LastActivityDate="2022-08-04T16:53:46.257" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19727" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15985" CreationDate="2022-08-05T00:52:59.303" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Abd to follow along with J Boughtons advice, I've noticed if the word &amp;quot;end&amp;quot; is in the first file, it won't read any of the files.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="34939" LastActivityDate="2022-08-05T00:52:59.303" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19728" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19710" CreationDate="2022-08-05T11:14:06.967" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would advise against this, as you will get layer lines which isn't visible in normal form, and the fit wont be as smooth etc, resulting in a cheaper look &amp;amp; feel. You will spend a lot of effort modifiying the parameters to get a foamy look, but still end up with a worse product.&#xA;Instead the best option is probably to buy EVA foam, and cut it with hot hire, or even a blade/knife.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I understand the jewelry is (probably) expensive, and thus you will want to give it a premium feel. One advice I would give is for the plastic box, consider SLA / Resin printing, and you will get almost injection moulding quality. However the chemicals involved with this are not as user friendly, and you will need to wear PPE and ensure a large amount of ventilation (as resin fumes can be toxic), however the quality will be much better&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="34947" LastActivityDate="2022-08-05T11:14:06.967" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19729" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19688" CreationDate="2022-08-05T11:17:45.217" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The MOSFET is either dead, or can't handle the high current the bed requires. You can try using an external MOSFET which is quite easy to wire, or alternatively soldering a new MOSFET one which is quite difficult.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Example of an external MOSFET (module):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZxM2a.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZxM2a.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="34947" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2022-08-06T13:47:49.110" LastActivityDate="2022-08-06T13:47:49.110" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19730" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-08-05T16:00:23.050" Score="1" ViewCount="147" Body="&lt;p&gt;I heard about how people dissolve ABS filament in Acetone, resulting in a glue-like solution which then they rub it on the bed and start printing. Apparently, this helps with warping. But I saw it being used only on glass beds, and the printer I have has a PEI bed, and it's an open-frame printer. So, if anyone has used the &amp;quot;ABS glue&amp;quot; on a PEI bed, did the bed degrade over time?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="34950" LastActivityDate="2022-08-05T17:48:45.040" Title="Can &quot;ABS Glue&quot; damage the PEI sheet when used frequently?" Tags="|abs|warping|delamination|pei|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19731" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-08-05T17:11:52.820" Score="1" ViewCount="25" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had a very similar experience as another member. I have Ender 3 with BLTouch which had been working amazing until a while ago. It was running a print overnight and when I got up in the morning the print had failed and the BLTouch had completely broken off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since then, we had our friend print a new hinge for it and we've managed to get it kinda working until recently. All one a sudden it prints about an inch and then just stops pushing filament through it also seems to stretch it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm a newbie and am not all up on the lingo but I do know a bit. Apologies, I'm very new to this and also sight impaired. So whatever I try to print will stop actually printing when the item gets to around an inch in height although the printer continues behaving as though it's still printing but no more filament comes through the nozzle. I hope this is making some sense. I will try and get another print going but today we can't even get filament going through at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="34951" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2022-08-06T21:10:28.393" LastActivityDate="2022-08-06T21:10:28.393" Title="Crealtity Ender 3 extruder" Tags="|creality-ender-3|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19733" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19737" CreationDate="2022-08-06T05:22:49.700" Score="2" ViewCount="3538" Body="&lt;p&gt;I upgraded my Ender 3 Pro from the stock 8-bit motherboard to a new 32-bit 4.2.7 motherboard. No problems were encountered with the swap, flashing of the new firmware, or calibration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I went to start the first test print, the firmware throws the E1 Error: &amp;quot;&lt;code&gt;Heating Failed: E1; PRINTER HALTED; Please Reset&lt;/code&gt;&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the print started, the bed heated up to the requested 60 °C, and then started warming the print head to 210 °C. Once the print head reached 205 °C, the temperature started to drop. It dropped back down to 200 °C, then up to 202 °C then down to 198 °C and so on. It kept doing the up and down heating until it dropped to 190 °C at which point the E1 error was displayed. I have run through the cycle several times with different prints, and through the menu options; and it always fails in the same up and down way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Printer Specs:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ender 3 Pro&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Upgraded motherboard 4.2.7 (silent stepper drivers)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Matching upgrade of Marlin to version 2.0.6 (downloaded from Creality)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;BLTouch&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;PEI print bed&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Replacement bed springs&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;everything else is stock&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Prior to the upgrade, everything worked fine. I printed several small prints the day before without a problem. After the upgrade the E1 error.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thoughts? Suggestions?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6681" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2022-08-06T13:40:06.243" LastActivityDate="2022-08-14T06:33:40.957" Title="Heating Failed: E1 after upgrade to 4.2.7 motherboard - Ender 3 Pro" Tags="|creality-ender-3|marlin|bltouch|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19734" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-08-06T20:02:31.570" Score="0" ViewCount="144" Body="&lt;p&gt;I purchased new PLA, and from the first print, the wall layers will have little gaps in them but only &amp;quot;just before&amp;quot; (depending on the size this can be half an inch to a couple of inches) the Z seam. I thought it was a new PLA problem, nope, did a temperature tower and different shape prints, flawless.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems to be only my models that I make in Fusion 360 (I haven't tried downloading other people's models to see what happens) and slice in Cura that mess up. I even printed my piece, with the Cura cylinder preset shapes. My piece had defects, the shape came out perfect. I put a picture of the Cone that was messed up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a VoxeLab Aquila which I use together with Ultimaker Cura. I print in PLA at 210 °C. Bed temperature is 60 °C. I use a print cooling fan at 100 %. The layer height I set to 0.3 mm, the line width 0.4 from the 0.4 mm nozzle. The Printing Speed is set to 30 mm/s for walls and 50 mm/s for infill. My retraction is 4 mm/off at 35 mm/s.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OfrY9.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Photo of a printed model with printing errors&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OfrY9.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Photo of a printed model with printing errors&quot; title=&quot;Photo of a printed model with printing errors&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="34966" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2022-08-07T20:50:29.183" LastActivityDate="2024-01-11T17:03:35.397" Title="Layer separation before Z seam on VoxeLab Aquila" Tags="|pla|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19736" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19479" CreationDate="2022-08-07T08:59:02.703" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I get this issue, more or less the same.&#xA;In my case, it wont read temperature UNLESS both X and Y steppers are active. If any of those is open, it displays err/0.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="34972" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2022-08-07T17:36:03.280" LastActivityDate="2022-08-07T17:36:03.280" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19737" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19733" CreationDate="2022-08-08T01:20:16.653" Score="1" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Problem Solved&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After checking in with the Ender 3 group on Facebook and doing quite a bit more research I tracked the problem down to PID calibration. The default settings for the board were not heating the print head properly. Because it was coming in short, the thermal runaway logic on the new board cut in and shut everything down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To fix the problem, the printer needs to run a PID autotune. This is a good idea when you replace any part between the nozzle and the logic board. To accomplish the autotune you need to access the printers console through an app such as &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.pronterface.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Pronterface&lt;/a&gt;. You should also take care when hooking in a USB cable to the printer. The &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.reddit.com/r/ender3/comments/nk7xfi/cant_find_427_board_on_pc_when_connected_via_usb/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;4.2.7 board runs power to the USB port&lt;/a&gt;. To get the printer connected to your computer, you will need to mask off the power pin on the USB cable (with the possibility of blowing the chip on the board if you skip this step)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Marlin command for PID autotune is &lt;a href=&quot;https://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M303.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;M303&lt;/a&gt;. Follow this up with an &lt;a href=&quot;https://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M301.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;M301&lt;/a&gt; to set the results from the autotune. And don't forget to finish up with an &lt;a href=&quot;https://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M500.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;M500&lt;/a&gt; to save the settings to the EEPROM.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would suggest &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9PTO98GuhxA&amp;amp;t=470s&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this video&lt;/a&gt; from Teaching Tech for an example of the process, and &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7mj47VjlavQ&amp;amp;t=681s&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this video&lt;/a&gt; from 3D Print General to conduct the same autotune on the build plate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Post Script&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Important Safety Tip&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt; - The 4.2.7 board draws more power than the old 8 bit board. During my first test print after the PID calibration, the connector between the power supply and the motherboard melted down. It seems that the wires were crimped rather than soldered. This was fine with the old board, but it was too much with the added power draw. The poor connection caused the wires in the connection to over heat. This is a fire hazard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check the power connector. remove the shrink wrap and take a close look.  If you don't see solder on the joint, replace it. It is worth the slight expense and hassle to avoid ruining your printer and potentially starting a fire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The issues is discussed in this &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4yDp9frWkcg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Makers Muse video&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6681" LastEditorUserId="6681" LastEditDate="2022-08-14T06:33:40.957" LastActivityDate="2022-08-14T06:33:40.957" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19739" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-08-08T01:54:09.870" Score="1" ViewCount="2634" Body="&lt;p&gt;What slicers have support for belt printers like the CR-30?  Or what slicers can have an add-on, plugin, or extension added to them to support it (from a user level, not a dev level).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found more total slicers than I expected, since I was only expecting 3 (Cura, PrusaSlicer, Simplify3d).  Surely that means I'm missing out on more, if there are already so many different slicers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Creality Slicer - Comes from the OEM of the printer&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Blackbelt Cura - Everyone who mentions it says don't use it because it's old&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Raise3d Ideamaker - Seems to be based on Flashforge's slicer, has some interesting features too.  Not as configurable as Slic3r or PrusaSlicer though.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5576" LastActivityDate="2022-09-08T06:58:32.187" Title="What slicers have support for belt printers, or could have support added via a plugin?" Tags="|slicing|belt-printer|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19740" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19743" CreationDate="2022-08-08T03:33:13.100" Score="4" ViewCount="559" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm printing a ring that's a replacement for the non-slip base of a mixing bowl. The ring is about 130mm in diameter, with a rectangular cross section, like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9cx9Y.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9cx9Y.png&quot; alt=&quot;rubber ring&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm using Cura as the slicer, and I've set the infill to 100% and &lt;code&gt;concentric&lt;/code&gt;, but after slicing it looks like Cura used &lt;code&gt;lines&lt;/code&gt; instead; the ring is filled with parallel straight lines:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LEfXF.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LEfXF.png&quot; alt=&quot;lines infill&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this a problem with Cura? Is there something I can do to encourage it to use concentric infill? I don't really care what the infill pattern is, but I think &lt;code&gt;concentric&lt;/code&gt; would print a lot faster since the head wouldn't have to switch directions all the time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1690" LastEditorUserId="1690" LastEditDate="2022-08-08T04:26:42.630" LastActivityDate="2022-08-08T22:06:18.537" Title="Cura uses lines instead of concentric infill" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|infill|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19742" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19740" CreationDate="2022-08-08T19:33:22.970" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this a problem with Cura?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know if the good folks at Ultimaker consider this a bug or a feature, but it appears that Cura uses the &lt;code&gt;Lines&lt;/code&gt; option regardless of the &lt;em&gt;Infill Pattern&lt;/em&gt; setting when &lt;em&gt;Infill Density&lt;/em&gt; is set to &lt;code&gt;100%&lt;/code&gt;. There may well be some reason for that; for example, the fact that the &lt;code&gt;Lines&lt;/code&gt; option alternates the direction of the lines from one layer to the next probably makes for stronger parts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there something I can do to encourage it to use concentric infill?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Yes!&lt;/strong&gt; It turns out that setting &lt;em&gt;Infill Density&lt;/em&gt; to anything less than &lt;code&gt;100%&lt;/code&gt; gives the expected concentric infill (provided &lt;em&gt;Infill Pattern&lt;/em&gt; is set to &lt;code&gt;Concentric&lt;/code&gt;, of course). When I changed the setting to &lt;code&gt;99.99%&lt;/code&gt; and re-sliced, I got concentric infill in the Preview panel. I haven't tried printing yet, but I have no doubt that I'll get the same thing in the actual print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't really care what the infill pattern is, but I think concentric would print a lot faster&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With &lt;em&gt;Infill Density&lt;/em&gt; set to &lt;code&gt;99.99%&lt;/code&gt; and &lt;em&gt;Infill Pattern&lt;/em&gt; set to &lt;code&gt;Concentric&lt;/code&gt;, the estimated time to print my part drops from 4 hours 50 minutes to 2 hours 44 minutes, &lt;strong&gt;a 44% time savings compared to 100% infill&lt;/strong&gt;. That's probably a lot more savings than you'd get on a part that wasn't so narrow, but it's worth knowing that at least some parts can print much faster with concentric infill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1690" LastEditorUserId="1690" LastEditDate="2022-08-08T20:28:02.497" LastActivityDate="2022-08-08T20:28:02.497" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19743" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19740" CreationDate="2022-08-08T22:06:18.537" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/Ultimaker/Cura/issues/11568&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;a known issue&lt;/a&gt;. Cura's profile variable logic sets the number of bottom layers to 999999 if infill is set to 100%, overriding infill by replacing it with additional bottom layers. If you go find the setting for number of bottom layers and set it back to the number you actually want, overriding this, infill should work as expected.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively, setting top/bottom pattern to concentric should also fix it, and you probably want that anyway so that you don't have distinct bottom layers that are printed as lines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2022-08-08T22:06:18.537" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19744" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19739" CreationDate="2022-08-09T04:38:04.863" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think most slicers don't distinguish printers based on if they have belts or delta configuration, etc.  The slicer generates gcode, and the firmware on the printer translates the gcode into actuator motions specific to that printer to perform the gcode.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The difference slicers generally care about is if it is a FFF printer that extrudes a bead or a resin printer that solidifies liquid.   Many other 3d printing methods exist, but those to are the most common ones supported by most of the open slicers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28397" LastActivityDate="2022-08-09T04:38:04.863" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19745" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19112" CreationDate="2022-08-09T13:37:42.033" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I haven't tried it, but it looks like the number of points in each axis of the probing grid is defined by these lines:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#define GRID_MAX_POINTS_X 3    // Don't use more than 7 points per axis, implementation limited.&#xA;#define GRID_MAX_POINTS_Y GRID_MAX_POINTS_X&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;in Marlin's &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/blob/bugfix-2.1.x/Marlin/Configuration.h&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Configuration.h&lt;/a&gt; file. So assuming you'd want the same number of points in each direction, change the &lt;code&gt;3&lt;/code&gt; to another value less than or equal to &lt;code&gt;7&lt;/code&gt;, and recompile Marlin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1690" LastActivityDate="2022-08-09T13:37:42.033" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19746" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-08-09T14:45:01.310" Score="2" ViewCount="172" Body="&lt;p&gt;After damaging my LCD plate while removing hardened resin (after my FEP failed and resin hardened onto the LCD) my printer started to harden resin in areas around the printed part. It started out being a bit of resin partially hardened to the FEP. I then replaced the damaged LCD with a new one, but the problem is getting worse. It now builds whole areas that are not part of the print. It seems like the LCD is creating these printed areas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a solution to this? I can't find anybody else having this problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Correction, Elegoo has a firmware update which is to correct a problem where resin is hardened all over the plate. This update seems to have failed to completely correct my problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First image is before update, second and third images are after the update.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rDeaV.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Before firmware update&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rDeaV.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Before firmware update&quot; title=&quot;Before firmware update&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0ow9c.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;After firmware update&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0ow9c.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;After firmware update&quot; title=&quot;After firmware update&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1C1gC.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Strange printing flaws, post firmware update&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1C1gC.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Strange printing flaws, post firmware update&quot; title=&quot;Strange printing flaws, post firmware update&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="34994" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2023-04-24T16:15:49.913" LastActivityDate="2023-04-26T10:24:04.390" Title="Elegoo Mars 2 is printing randomly in the wrong places" Tags="|resin|quality|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19747" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19748" CreationDate="2022-08-09T15:00:01.930" Score="4" ViewCount="3439" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have to have a pin fit in a hole, and there needs to be a gap so the pin can turn freely.  Can I make the pin smaller by changing the tolerance?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7197" LastEditorUserId="36802" LastEditDate="2023-12-12T18:52:13.343" LastActivityDate="2023-12-12T18:52:13.343" Title="What is the difference between allowance and tolerance?" Tags="|3d-design|terminology|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19748" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19747" CreationDate="2022-08-09T15:00:01.930" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are four terms that many people find confusing:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;Tolerance&lt;/em&gt; is the amount of random deviation or variation permitted for a given dimension.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;Allowance&lt;/em&gt; is a planned difference between a nominal or reference value and an exact value.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;Clearance&lt;/em&gt; is the intentional space between two parts.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;Interference&lt;/em&gt; is the intentional overlap between two parts.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Use &lt;em&gt;tolerance&lt;/em&gt; when specifying the amount of error permitted in making a part. Use &lt;em&gt;allowance&lt;/em&gt; when specifying a gap between two mating parts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Two other related terms that are important when specifying dimensions for manufacturing:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;Accuracy&lt;/em&gt; is the maximum dimensional variation between parts.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;Precision&lt;/em&gt; is the size of the steps your machine is capable of.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A machine cannot reliably produce parts with a smaller tolerance than its &lt;em&gt;accuracy&lt;/em&gt;. If elephant foot expands your parts by 0.1 mm, then your accuracy is only 0.1 mm. You will not be able to repeatably print parts with 0.05 mm tolerance. (You might get lucky and one out of ten might accidentally fit the dimensions required, but that's not a good manufacturing plan.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Precision is often confused with accuracy. People think that if their machine is advertised as having 0.05 mm step size (its &lt;em&gt;precision&lt;/em&gt; is 0.05 mm) that they can print parts with 0.05 mm tolerance. But if your printer has a precision of 0.05mm and an accuracy of 0.1 mm, you cannot count on it to repeatedly position itself to within 0.05 mm of the desired dimension.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To measure your machine's accuracy, you'll need to print some pins and holes and carefully measure the differences between what you defined and what you printed. The difference between the largest and smallest measurements you take is the accuracy. And be sure to check the accuracy in your X, Y, and Z dimensions; your printer might have a difference between them that would impact the roundness of the parts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the case of the sizes needed to fit a pin in a hole so that it can pivot freely, you need to define an &lt;em&gt;allowance&lt;/em&gt; in order to create the &lt;em&gt;clearance&lt;/em&gt; you desire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the minimum gap between parts you are looking for, and what is the maximum you can accept? That's the clearance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's say you want a clearance of at least 0.2 mm between the pin and hole, but no more than 1.0 mm. And let's say you measured your printer's accuracy to be ± 0.2 mm. If you print a 5 mm pin, your pin would be anywhere between 5.0 mm ± 0.2 mm, so the hole must therefore be 5.6 mm ± 0.2 mm. The minimum clearance of 0.2 mm would be an minimum sized hole (5.4 mm) and a maximum sized pin (5.2 mm); the maximum clearance of 1.0 mm would be a maximum sized hole (5.8 mm) and a minimum sized pin (4.8 mm).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that a clearance of 1.0 mm is really loose, and is just too sloppy for your application. You might think to tighten the tolerances to 0.05 mm in order to reduce the clearance. But since your printer's accuracy can't produce a part that meets your specified tolerances, you would need to find a different way to manufacture or &amp;quot;finish&amp;quot; the parts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The traditional way to solve the problem of inaccuracy in production is to create the part larger than the maximum material condition, then use a subtractive method to finish it to the desired dimensions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Say we need the pin and hole to have 0.2 mm clearance, but we've already established that our machine only has 0.2 mm of accuracy. How do we print the parts to fit? We print the hole undersized and the pin oversized by the amount of accuracy in our machine, plus we include an allowance to ensure we always have some material to remove in the finishing step.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's establish the hole's final dimension to be 5.0 mm ± 0.05, so we print the hole to 4.7 mm ± 0.2 mm (resulting in a hole that's between 4.9 mm and 4.5 mm). After printing we run a 5 mm drill bit through it to finish it to 5.0 mm ± 0.05 mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then we do a similar operation with the pin. Print it to 5.1 mm ± 0.2 mm (giving us a pin between 5.3 mm and 4.9 mm), then chuck it in a lathe or drill and carefully sand or file it until it becomes 4.8 mm ± 0.05. Now we finally have achieved our clearance of 0.2 mm ± 0.1 mm, which is a good enough fit for our purpose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These types of secondary finishing steps have been used by craftspeople for hundreds of years.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7197" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2022-08-11T17:37:00.317" LastActivityDate="2022-08-11T17:37:00.317" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19749" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19712" CreationDate="2022-08-09T15:59:08.410" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Once you understand how the parts will need to fit together to meet their purpose, you will need to define &lt;em&gt;allowances&lt;/em&gt; on your parts in order to create &lt;em&gt;clearance&lt;/em&gt; between them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will need to understand your printer's capabilities and &lt;em&gt;accuracy&lt;/em&gt; by printing some test parts and measuring them. &lt;em&gt;Tolerance&lt;/em&gt; is the amount of variation from the specified dimension that is acceptable on a part.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your printer isn't accurate enough to achieve the tolerances specified on the part, you'll have to find some way to improve the parts so that they are within tolerance.  Often this is done as a finishing step: filing, sanding, or grinding an oversized printed part; drilling out an undersized hole; etc.  You should also consider other options: buy a more accurate resin printer, redesign the part to make the pin out of a commercially available metal rod or tube, pay someone else to make the parts for you, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Armed with this information you can &amp;quot;design for manufacturing&amp;quot;. That means you alter the design of your parts enough so they can be successfully produced with the tooling available to you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I just posted a little Q&amp;amp;A that discusses this very topic of &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/19747/what-is-the-difference-between-allowance-and-tolerance&quot;&gt;the difference between allowances and tolerances&lt;/a&gt;, and ways to achieve that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7197" LastEditorUserId="7197" LastEditDate="2022-08-11T15:15:58.523" LastActivityDate="2022-08-11T15:15:58.523" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19751" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-08-11T11:30:18.233" Score="6" ViewCount="135" Body="&lt;p&gt;With a fan cooled, all metal hotend, is there any reason to wait for the hotend to cool, before shutting down power, if the filament has been unloaded?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When leaving the filament on the machine after a print, I’m normally in the habit of waiting until the hotend has cooled down below the filament’s glass temperature before turning the printer off, because without the hotend fan running and the heat block hot, the filament can get softened up in cold end and potentially jam next time. But if there is no filament, would it stand to reason there isn’t enough remaining plastic in the hotend to get heat creep? And it doesn’t matter if the cold end gets hot?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27077" LastActivityDate="2023-02-05T10:05:10.607" Title="Ok to shutdown printer after unloading filament, with no cool down?" Tags="|all-metal-hotend|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19754" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19759" CreationDate="2022-08-11T23:19:44.767" Score="0" ViewCount="543" Body="&lt;p&gt;Both items were printed at the same time. The item on the right was perfect while the one on the left has crazy thick strings. Sorry I didn't keep the build plate's orientation, you can see how they were positioned in the Cura screen cap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BuShS.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Photo of two printed models, the left model has stringing while the right one doesn't&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BuShS.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Photo of two printed models, the left model has stringing while the right one doesn't&quot; title=&quot;Photo of two printed models, the left model has stringing while the right one doesn't&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/G7X3A.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Screenshot of the print preview in Cura showing nozzle travels&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/G7X3A.png&quot; alt=&quot;Screenshot of the print preview in Cura showing nozzle travels&quot; title=&quot;Screenshot of the print preview in Cura showing nozzle travels&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I thought the stringing was from nozzle travel but if that were true the strings would be coming from the center pillar which they are not. Some of the strings shoot out from the left which doesn't make any sense.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I checked the bottom and it seems like the first layer is perfect or pretty damned close to it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Sovol Sv01 pro&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;This is similar to an Ender 3 S1&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;direct drive&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Creality silent board&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;CR touch&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Marlin 2.0&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;hot end I'm not sure what's in there but it has a V6 nozzle rather than an MK8&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;PEI sheet&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;K value 2.0 - this was the factory setting&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;All the parts are pretty new since I bought the printer on an Amazon Prime day about a month ago.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Settings&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Inland PETG - Yellow&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a few days ago it had a 6hr session in a filament dryer&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;225 °C nozzle&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;70 °C bed&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;retraction 3.0 mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;print speed 60 mm/s&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;print acceleration 500 mm/s&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;jerk 12 mm/s&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="35019" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2022-08-12T01:28:57.207" LastActivityDate="2022-08-19T14:34:48.780" Title="Thick stringing next to a perfectly printed model" Tags="|creality-ender-3|petg|stringing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19756" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19793" CreationDate="2022-08-12T13:59:43.077" Score="3" ViewCount="1347" Body="&lt;p&gt;On my Ender 3 v2 printer I recently and consistently get some knocking.&#xA;This happens in only two scenarios.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, it now occurs all the time when printing the initial test strip gets near the top (high Y value), and knocks several times.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Secondly, it occurs if the model (sliced with Cura) has a high Y value (eg: if the model occupies most of the bed).&#xA;(If there is room and I move the model - in Cura - closer to the front there is no knocking.)&#xA;On the first 10 (or so) layers the printer sometimes knocks when a high Y value is reached and the entire model is thereafter shifted to the front by a few millimeters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a third scenario. At the end of a print the print head is in the middle of the bed and moves up 20 mm then travels directly to the top left corner. At this corner there are 4 or 5 &amp;quot;knocks&amp;quot; (and the nozzle is 20 mm above the bed).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any suggestions to diagnose/fix this problem will be much appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="35023" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2022-08-13T21:41:30.057" LastActivityDate="2022-08-19T20:36:02.390" Title="Why is my Ender 3 v2 knocking &amp; misaligning for high Y?" Tags="|creality-ender-3|print-quality|y-axis|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19757" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19756" CreationDate="2022-08-12T14:43:48.580" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your bed has become unleveled or skewed in Y direction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the nozzle is closer to the bed the extruder has to push harder to get the same filament flow through a smaller space, the stresses the extruder to a point that the stepper skips or grinds the filament. This is generally described as a knocking sound.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You need to find out why the bed is higher at the upper end of the Y range and fix this. Otherwise your bed has become warped and may need to be replaced. There are alternatives in using a sensor (e.g. a BLTouch) to sense the shape of the print surface, it will then automatically adjust for the shape during the first 10 mm (default value) of your print product. Installing a sensor requires new or alternative firmware.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2022-08-12T17:24:26.917" LastActivityDate="2022-08-12T17:24:26.917" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19759" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19754" CreationDate="2022-08-13T05:37:31.983" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;225°C is &lt;strong&gt;way too cool&lt;/strong&gt; to print PETG, especially at 60 mm/s if your printer's extruder is similar to the Ender 3's stock extruder (going off what you said; I'm not familiar with your specific printer). It will be having serious trouble extruding, slipping in the filament gear, at which point you'll have too little material, so what does get extruded gets stretched out too thin and is under a lot of tension, and since it's not hot enough to bond well with the previous layer and also not thick enough to press well against the previous layer, it gets pulled across a diagonal rather than following the toolhead path.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Drop your speed for PETG to 30 mm/s or lower and increase the temperature to 235°C at a bare minimum. I would really call 245°C the minimum for PETG, but that's borderline too hot for the stock PTFE-lined heatbreak and will degrate the PTFE (and arguably offgas harmful fumes, although probably at levels way too low to actually be harmful) over time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2022-08-13T05:37:31.983" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19760" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-08-13T14:27:01.100" Score="3" ViewCount="8436" Body="&lt;p&gt;On a printer with a heated bed, what are the consequences of setting the bed temperature too high went printing with PLA?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a small amount above the recommended setting, 5 Celsius for example&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Considerably above it, 20 Celsius&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm thinking of consequences for the print, not for the printer. Such as warping, adhesion, difficulty removing, and so on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="29097" LastActivityDate="2022-08-13T16:20:56.120" Title="Consequences of setting the bed temperature too high with PLA?" Tags="|print-quality|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19761" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19760" CreationDate="2022-08-13T16:20:56.120" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The biggest consequences of printing PLA with the bed too hot stem from difficulty cooling, especially for the layers close to the bed. PLA softens (or hardens, if you're looking at it from the other direction of cooling) around 50-65°C. When you have material in contact with a bed above that temperature, no amount of cooling fan will harden it. It will stay soft. If there's a big mass of material, just the viscosity may help it retain its shape well enough to meet your needs. If not, air pressure from the fan, friction with the nozzle, the pressure of the next layer beying extruded against it, etc. may displace the material from where it was supposed to be, giving you a print that's not just inaccurate but structurally unsound, or where support structures bond irremovably, or gaps that were designed into the model to be gaps fuse together, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even once you get a few mm away from such a hot bed, or even if the bed somewhat below the temperatures where PLA softens, you will still have greatly diminished cooling capacity. This is because the rate of heat transfer is proportional to the &lt;strong&gt;difference of temperatures&lt;/strong&gt;. When PLA is at 70°C nearing hardening, hitting it with air that's 45°C will only cool it at half the rate as hitting it with air that's 20°C. Once the PLA is down to 60°C, the rates would differ by a factor of 3! This means you either need to give the PLA a lot more time to cool (print slower/longer minimum-layer-time) or use higher-flow fans that will pull in more cooler air from outside the print zone rather than just stirring around the hot air above the bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can see some examples of how bed temperature's effects on cooling affect the print outcome in one of my older questions here: &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/q/10583/11157&quot;&gt;How do you solve PLA corner-curling short of printing really, REALLY slow?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2022-08-13T16:20:56.120" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19762" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19766" CreationDate="2022-08-13T17:54:16.610" Score="1" ViewCount="189" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an Ender 3 V2 which is around 6 months old. Recently, extruding slowed to an almost complete halt seconds into a print for no apparent reason. The extruder works perfectly when extruding manually (using the extrude setting) and I see no reason for it to not extrude properly. I am using Ultimaker Cura  and a new filament (my old one has the same issue). The print speed is 10mm/s and the temperature is correct for the filament which is PLA+.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After some testing it seems random when it stops extruding but it always happens within the first 10 seconds of the print starting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="32336" LastEditorUserId="32336" LastEditDate="2022-08-13T19:57:46.707" LastActivityDate="2022-08-15T00:45:32.240" Title="Why Does My 3D Printer Stop Extruding PLA?" Tags="|creality-ender-3|ultimaker-cura|extrusion|underextrusion|print-failure|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19763" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-08-14T12:39:06.067" Score="1" ViewCount="74" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm using an Ender 5 with standard PLA and Creality slicer 4.8.2.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I deliberately maximise stringing, and if possible get it to be as consistent as possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My aim is to have &amp;quot;thousands of hair like threads strung between two rocky pillars&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If possible I'd like to do this in the slicer with PLA, rather than using cotton or some other material after the model has printed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="29097" LastActivityDate="2022-08-16T15:40:20.557" Title="How do I deliberately maximise stringing with PLA?" Tags="|fdm|creality-ender-5|stringing|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19765" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19763" CreationDate="2022-08-14T16:29:49.757" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Slicers will perform a retraction when moving from one solid to another, the value of which is part of the settings. I've not researched if a specific slicer will allow a negative retraction, but if it's possible, it's likely to create adjustable stringing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If negative retraction is not possible, one can identify the retraction segments in g-code of the print and find/replace those values with extrude rather than retract. My slicer, Simplify3D does not support reversed retraction, but the code is clear when examined with a text editor:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;G1 E-4.0000 F2400&#xA;G1 Z0.300 F1200&#xA;G1 X118.760 Y117.415 F12000&#xA;G1 Z0.250 F1200&#xA;G1 E0.0000 F2400&#xA;G92 E0.0000&#xA;G1 X122.415 Y113.760 E0.0972 F900&#xA;build g-code removed for clarity&#xA;G1 X118.760 Y117.415 E1.5303&#xA;G92 E0.0000&#xA;G1 E-4.0000 F2400&#xA;G1 Z0.300 F1200&#xA;G1 X158.280 Y117.216 F12000&#xA;G1 Z0.250 F1200&#xA;G1 E0.0000 F2400&#xA;G92 E0.0000&#xA;G1 X162.216 Y113.280 E0.1047 F900&#xA;build g-code removed for clarity&#xA;G1 X158.280 Y117.216 E1.5902&#xA;G92 E0.0000&#xA;G1 E-4.0000 F2400&#xA;build g-code removed for clarity&#xA;G1 E0.0000 F2400&#xA;G92 E0.0000&#xA;G1 X162.415 Y113.760 E0.0972 F900&#xA;build g-code removed for clarity&#xA;G1 X158.760 Y117.415 E1.5303&#xA;G92 E0.0000&#xA;G1 E-4.0000 F2400&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All entries beginning with G1 E-4.0000 represent the 4 mm retraction called by the slicer. One could search for just that code and replace it with a positive value. Some experimentation is indicated to accomplish the desired result. The F value is feed rate and presents another value to adjust.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pursuant to Oscar's comment, I overlooked the lack of movement as a factor. He is correct, such a modification is likely to create a blob. As a possible compensation, a better modification would be to create a custom extrusion code with a reduced flow rate, using the existing code as a reference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This starts to complicate the process substantially, requiring far more calculations and edits. I suggest that it could yet be accomplished, but would be more easily done so with post processing of the code via Python or similar, with which I am not qualified to address.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastEditorUserId="854" LastEditDate="2022-08-16T15:40:20.557" LastActivityDate="2022-08-16T15:40:20.557" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19766" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19762" CreationDate="2022-08-15T00:45:32.240" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If it only extrudes the priming line, then nothing comes out for the model, this sounds like you have your slicer configured for extremely low or no flow, or wrong filament diameter. Check that any flow settings are at or near 100% and that the filament diameter in the machine, extruder, &lt;strong&gt;and&lt;/strong&gt; material settings is correct (1.75 mm for most printers).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2022-08-15T00:45:32.240" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19767" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15361" CreationDate="2022-08-15T08:46:02.793" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The issue with the &amp;quot;&lt;a href=&quot;https://help.prusa3d.com/article/the-benchy-hull-line_124745&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;hull line&lt;/a&gt;&amp;quot; is known. It depends on the fact that the material shrinks after extrusion and faster layers give less time to the previous layer to shrink, so they appear continuous, while slower layers take more time, so the previous layer has more time to shrink and there will be a visible change in the outer dimensions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, larger layers are the slower ones. You can increase the temperature a bit, so that it will take more time to cool down to the shrinkage temperatures, you can print faster, you can increase chamber temperature to have more time before shrinkage, or you can cool more the part so that no matter the current layer time, the previous one will always be already shrunk.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the Polymaker Discord server there is a channel about the &amp;quot;hull line&amp;quot;. You can find an invitation to the server and check there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2338" LastActivityDate="2022-08-15T08:46:02.793" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19768" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19794" CreationDate="2022-08-15T11:26:15.457" Score="2" ViewCount="669" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have 12 parts for a model I want to print but I would like to know if I can put all of them in a single G-code file and print that on its own. Would this affect the model in any way?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I’m using PLA on my Ender 3 Pro&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="33318" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2022-08-15T21:15:05.743" LastActivityDate="2022-08-21T02:01:24.403" Title="Can I print multiple parts in a single G-code file?" Tags="|g-code|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19769" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19768" CreationDate="2022-08-15T12:01:10.370" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;This answer assumes FDM printing -- for resin printers, as I understand it, as long as there's flow space between parts, if they fit on the build plate, they'll print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For FDM, generally, you'll get better print quality printing a single part, because layers don't cool while you print the same layer for each of the other parts (meaning layer adhesion will be better).  That said, if the parts are very small, this additional cooling may be an improvement vs. having to set your slicer to provide a pause between layers to avoid slumps and layer spreading.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A compromise, if the parts are low enough, is that most slicers can be instructed to print the parts sequentially -- that is, print all of part A, then all of part B, and so forth.  This has some limitation in that all parts already printed must clear parts of the machine, and may also require larger clearance between parts for items like fan shrouds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But printing a bunch of parts at one time does work, if the compromises in layer adhesion and other quality issues related to traveling between parts are acceptable.  The only way to be sure is to print the whole lot (perhaps with a large nozzle and thick layers, low infill, etc. to minimize filament consumption and print time) and see if they're good enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28508" LastActivityDate="2022-08-15T12:01:10.370" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19770" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19763" CreationDate="2022-08-15T12:46:48.847" Score="2" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Eliminate retraction in slicer.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Print at a higher hot end temperature; something like +10°C higher than recommenced temperature.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Slow down speed hot end moves when not printing.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Maximize hot end movement without printing where you want strings.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15075" LastActivityDate="2022-08-15T12:46:48.847" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19771" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19768" CreationDate="2022-08-15T13:02:05.053" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would this affect the model in any way?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Resin would be fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Filament is more problematic. Printing multiple items increases the chance of a problem with one eg. a failed support, impacting on the others.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You also increase the chance of stringing between items and can have problems with layer adhesion higher up the print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having said that.... I do it all the time, because it's just easier. The only real concession I make is that I check periodically that the first couple of layers are fine, after that I just let it do it's thing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only filament I do it differently is TPU because I turn off retraction, without retraction it's guaranteed stringing between parts, so when I do multiple ones I always join them into one with a couple of lines then cut the joins off afterwards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31811" LastActivityDate="2022-08-15T13:02:05.053" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19772" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19768" CreationDate="2022-08-15T22:34:35.977" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;With a printer that has all the physical/mechanical problems worked out, and with slicing configuration tuned to make sure the slicer isn't doing anything stupid to introduce problems, printing a whole plate of parts at a time should be no problem. This is how folks use high-end CoreXY and Cross-XY printers printing more printer parts (to sell, etc.) all the time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But if your printer sometimes has problems, doing multiple parts at a time drastically increases your risk that something will fail and mess up all the parts on the plate. And unless your printer is really fast, there's not a whole lot of benefit to plating a large number of parts together. Having to manually start a new job after a 6-hour job finishes is usually not a big deal unless you're trying to take advantage of overnights, which are an even worse idea if your printer isn't reliable. But on a fast printing setup, having to start a new job every 20 minutes rather than a plate after 3 hours is a big productivity killer, making large plates more attractive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2022-08-15T22:34:35.977" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19774" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1334" CreationDate="2022-08-16T12:44:37.787" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've tried many tools, and many ways. The easiest way I found was to use Blender as previously mention.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A good (and fast) tutorial to expand pieces without stretching them is &lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/9EF2VryBAq4?start=0&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="35059" LastActivityDate="2022-08-16T12:44:37.787" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19775" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-08-16T14:30:56.857" Score="0" ViewCount="28" Body="&lt;p&gt;My hardware Arduino Mega with RAMPS 1.6 with Marlin 1.0.2 and powered by external power to prevent my board from losing memory, when I reconnect the USB and serial goes offline, the board set last position e.g 10,0,0 to 0,0,0 as x,y,z&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How to prevent last position  from reset ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30745" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2022-08-17T13:10:52.983" LastActivityDate="2022-08-20T08:52:12.950" Title="Prevent postion from reset to 0.0.0 when serial goes offline" Tags="|marlin|firmware|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19776" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-08-16T18:55:06.113" Score="1" ViewCount="555" Body="&lt;p&gt;I set:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;G-code override: &lt;code&gt;false&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;filament: PETG&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;nozzle temperature: 245 °C&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here the pictures that state the above points:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UXVNu.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UXVNu.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rzNHL.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rzNHL.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When loading the model, it also confirms the nozzle temperature of 245 °C:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bpuvB.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bpuvB.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But when running, it uses another temperature (230 °C) that is even different of what the G-code contains:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mt7ES.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mt7ES.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why? What is my mistake?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the &amp;quot;prioritize G-code&amp;quot; flag is on, the machine would follow the &lt;code&gt;M104&lt;/code&gt; and &lt;code&gt;M109&lt;/code&gt; commands contained in the G-code. If true, the machine uses the default filament settings as per the above image.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21979" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2022-08-26T13:56:02.880" LastActivityDate="2022-08-26T13:56:02.880" Title="Dremel 3D45 does not honor temperature settings" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|petg|dremel-3d45|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19777" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-08-16T20:37:48.607" Score="0" ViewCount="2879" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have the problem that the bed auto level functionality is working but not precise enough so that the first layer doesn't stick everywhere and the &amp;quot;paper sheet check&amp;quot; for each corner gives different results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a Creality Ender 3 V2 with &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.creality3dofficial.com/products/creality-cr-touch&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;CR Touch&lt;/a&gt; auto level sensor and Marlin firmware (Marlin bugfix-JyersUI v2.0.1 (Nov  5 2021 21:19:16)).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do the bed auto level either via G-code &lt;code&gt;G29&lt;/code&gt; in each print-file it self or via OctoPrint Bed Visualizer:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;M140 S60 ; starting by heating the bed for nominal mesh accuracy&#xA;M117 Homing all axes ; send message to printer display&#xA;G28      ; home all axes&#xA;M420 S0  ; Turning off bed leveling while probing, if firmware is set&#xA;         ; to restore after G28&#xA;M117 Heating the bed ; send message to printer display&#xA;M190 S60 ; waiting until the bed is fully warmed up&#xA;M300 S1000 P500 ; chirp to indicate bed mesh levels is initializing&#xA;M117 Creating the bed mesh levels ; send message to printer display&#xA;M155 S30 ; reduce temperature reporting rate to reduce output pollution&#xA;@BEDLEVELVISUALIZER ; tell the plugin to watch for reported mesh&#xA;G29 T      ; run bilinear probing&#xA;M155 S3  ; reset temperature reporting&#xA;M140 S0 ; cooling down the bed&#xA;M500 ; store mesh in EEPROM&#xA;M300 S440 P200 ; make calibration completed tones&#xA;M300 S660 P250&#xA;M300 S880 P300&#xA;M117 Bed mesh levels completed ; send message to printer display&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I added &lt;code&gt;M420 S1&lt;/code&gt; into all my G-code print files.&#xA;I checked that the auto leveling is active by sending single commands via terminal to the printer:&#xA;After Homing Z the Z value is as expected: 0 (zero).&#xA;After activating auto level compensation with &lt;code&gt;M420 S1&lt;/code&gt; it stays zero. Then I move the printer into a corner with &lt;code&gt;G0 x120 y120 z1 F5000&lt;/code&gt; followed by &lt;code&gt;G0 Z0&lt;/code&gt;.&#xA;Then &lt;code&gt;M114&lt;/code&gt; shows &lt;code&gt;Recv: X:120.00 Y:120.00 Z:0.00 E:32.24 Count X:9600 Y:9600 Z:-7&amp;quot;&lt;/code&gt;. The &lt;code&gt;Z: -7&lt;/code&gt;  shows me that auto leveling is doing something.&#xA;But when I check in the corner the &amp;quot;paper sheet check&amp;quot; shows different results in the corner than in the center (where I calibrated the Z-offset with the &amp;quot;paper sheet check&amp;quot;).&#xA;Also the bed visualizer doesn't show the same results when I run it twice in sequence (the standard deviation of the sensor is supposed to be &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.creality3dofficial.com/blogs/unboxing-product-comparison/creality-bl-touch-firmware&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;0.001 mm&lt;/a&gt;):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First run:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6ufAb.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;First run&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6ufAb.png&quot; alt=&quot;First run&quot; title=&quot;First run&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second run:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fkQnS.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Second run&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fkQnS.png&quot; alt=&quot;Second run&quot; title=&quot;Second run&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;code&gt;M48 P10&lt;/code&gt; on my machine results in&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Send: M48 P10&#xA;Recv: M48 Z-Probe Repeatability Test&#xA;[...]&#xA;Recv: Finished!&#xA;Recv: Mean: -0.005500 Min: -0.007 Max: -0.003 Range: 0.005&#xA;Recv: Standard Deviation: 0.001204&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which looks similar, I guess? (Open question: Does my firmware even have the &lt;code&gt;AUTO_BED_LEVELING_UBL&lt;/code&gt; option? How can I find out?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I could not feed any wiggle room on any axis of my printer, or the nozzle or the CR touch sensor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So my question is: What could be wrong with my printer? I assume the BL/CR touch sensor works for other people as expected.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="35045" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2022-08-17T10:59:09.803" LastActivityDate="2022-08-17T10:59:09.803" Title="Creality CR Touch not precise enough" Tags="|creality-ender-3|bed-leveling|bltouch|creality|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19779" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19051" CreationDate="2022-08-17T20:54:31.920" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Comment this line:&#xA;&lt;code&gt;Z_MIN_PROBE_USES_Z_MIN_ENDSTOP_PIN&lt;/code&gt; (comment=&lt;code&gt;//&lt;/code&gt; before the line). So you search for this line in the config file, comment it in order to disable it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2nd step, uncomment:&#xA;&lt;code&gt;Z_MIN_PROBE_ENDSTOP&lt;/code&gt; so delete the &lt;code&gt;//&lt;/code&gt; in front of the line.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="35078" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2024-01-07T09:17:13.883" LastActivityDate="2024-01-07T09:17:13.883" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19780" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19051" CreationDate="2022-08-17T22:25:25.457" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;What you describe is very common behavior for a faulty sensor or bad wiring. I've had my fair share of knock-off BLTouch clones that show this exact behavior. When replaced by a genuine BLTouch sensor, the issues where gone. You might have gotten a defective sensor. You should write the vendor that it doesn't work and ask for a replacement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2022-08-17T22:25:25.457" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19781" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-08-18T06:02:12.973" Score="2" ViewCount="220" Body="&lt;p&gt;I’m spending hours trying to get a bed mesh that gives me a reliable first layer.  I’ve got CHEP’s concentric square pattern printing reliably, but real objects still fail, and the G26 test pattern in Marlin FW is failing immediately.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I kill a G26 R999 that’s already begun, once I get filament balling up on my nozzle?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="34765" LastActivityDate="2022-08-19T09:27:12.660" Title="Can I cancel a G26 that’s already underway?" Tags="|creality-ender-3|marlin|troubleshooting|bed-leveling|g-code|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19784" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19852" CreationDate="2022-08-18T17:38:44.113" Score="2" ViewCount="1374" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently purchased a spool of PETG to try working with it. I have managed to dial in most of the settings in Prusaslicer but one, in particular, is giving me a problem. As seen in the photo, the clip I printed has extra extrusion on the inside and outside. I have noticed that the nozzle will pause at the seam for about 5 secs before continuing. (The bottom is not Elephant's foot, I just didn't clean off all the brim)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WlK7I.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Photo of the front and back of a 3D printed clip showing extra extrusion&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WlK7I.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Photo of the front and back of a 3D printed clip showing extra extrusion&quot; title=&quot;Photo of the front and back of a 3D printed clip showing extra extrusion&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I positioned the seam on the inside of the model. I know that the extra extrusion is caused by the seam but why would it also appear on the outside of the model?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3RwLE.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Screenshot of the Prusaslicer Preview of the model showing the seam and retractions&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3RwLE.png&quot; alt=&quot;Screenshot of the Prusaslicer Preview of the model showing the seam and retractions&quot; title=&quot;Screenshot of the Prusaslicer Preview of the model showing the seam and retractions&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have printed the same clip in PLA without any printing errors. What setting within Prusaslicer needs to change so I can get rid of the extra plastic on the inside and outside of the print?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[I don't know what relevant print settings are needed to solve this problem, but will edit the question when I get some guidance.]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23193" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2022-08-19T23:53:30.323" LastActivityDate="2022-09-01T19:48:15.620" Title="Extra extrusion at seam of print with PETG" Tags="|print-quality|petg|prusaslicer|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19785" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19781" CreationDate="2022-08-18T19:32:59.260" Score="1" Body="&lt;h1&gt;Not with a command&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can not cancel &lt;strong&gt;any&lt;/strong&gt; commands once they have started to execute unless you abort the print or powercycle: any normal interrupt command you send (like &amp;quot;pause&amp;quot;) is queued after the current command is executed in the line.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Aborting is losing your print&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So you need to trigger a function without a G or M code. The most common solution is Powercycling - which forces the board to &lt;em&gt;hard&lt;/em&gt; re-boot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another way to force a reboot is to connect the &amp;quot;reset&amp;quot; pin with 5V.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or you connect the printer to a machine via a USB connection, which, to initialize that connection forces a reboot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another solution is using the machine's &amp;quot;Abort print&amp;quot; function. This bypasses the command queue and triggers pretty much a &lt;em&gt;soft reboot&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;In all cases, the print is lost.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2022-08-19T09:27:12.660" LastActivityDate="2022-08-19T09:27:12.660" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19788" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19051" CreationDate="2022-08-19T03:29:59.590" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Make sure that you’ve changed the G-code in your slicer so that it uses the auto leveling. I forgot to do that when I installed a CR Touch on my Ender 3 and the behavior was similar to what you describe: the printer would deploy the CR Touch a couple times, and then just stop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Adding a &lt;code&gt;G29&lt;/code&gt; instruction to the G-code in Cura’s printer configuration (I put it after the &lt;code&gt;G28&lt;/code&gt; instruction) will tell the printer to use the auto bed leveling. Once I did that, the printer started working as expected.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1690" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2024-01-07T09:14:52.233" LastActivityDate="2024-01-07T09:14:52.233" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19789" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19796" CreationDate="2022-08-19T11:56:47.827" Score="0" ViewCount="714" Body="&lt;p&gt;I did my homework reading similar questions, like &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/8296/petg-sticking-to-nozzle&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/7122/petg-filament-doesnt-stick-reliably-to-fake-buildtak-surface&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/722/petg-collecting-on-the-extruder&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt;.&#xA;Here a video that shows the issue:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/YVTeJ6Tka_o?start=0&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The filament is PETG from &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.amazon.it/gp/product/B08BRDT3X8/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;JAYO&lt;/a&gt; and the printer is a Dremel 3D45.&#xA;As you can see, the filament does not stick on the buildplate. The manufacturer suggests to use 220-250 °C for the nozzle and 70-80 °C for the bed.&#xA;Here what I tried so far:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;add purple glue from Dremel&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;bed temperature from 70 to 80 °C&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;nozzle temperature from 235 to 250 °C (below 230 °C it does not come out from the nozzle at all)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;print speed from 50 to 70 mm/s&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;nozzle gap from 0.0 to 0.4 mm (in step of 0.1 mm). The video was taken with the maximum gap. When the gap is lower, almost all the filament sticks to the nozzle&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;fan speed from 0 % to 50 %&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the filament is inside a filament dryer&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;clean up the nozzle&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;before each print I level and calibrate the buildplate&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Honestly I don't know what to do further.&#xA;From your experience what should I do to avoid what you see in the video?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21979" LastActivityDate="2022-08-21T21:35:25.940" Title="No way to stick PETG on buildplate" Tags="|adhesion|petg|build-plate|dremel-3d45|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19790" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19784" CreationDate="2022-08-19T14:26:48.880" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Looks like &lt;strong&gt;Retract at layer change&lt;/strong&gt; is causing this. Disable that and see. This will help you to improve the quality a lot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It will be under retraction settings:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tdYOm.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Screenshot of retraction settings&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tdYOm.png&quot; alt=&quot;Screenshot of retraction settings&quot; title=&quot;Screenshot of retraction settings&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="35096" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2022-08-20T04:55:39.763" LastActivityDate="2022-08-20T04:55:39.763" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19792" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19734" CreationDate="2022-08-19T14:43:59.887" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Two things:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check the STL file once you have exported from fusion360, sometimes stl files from fusion360 needs to be watertight one. In this case, yes, some models might leave a gap.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check if nozzle is clean, sometimes partial clog can cause this issue too.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="35096" LastActivityDate="2022-08-19T14:43:59.887" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19793" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19756" CreationDate="2022-08-19T14:49:43.660" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Embarassingly, I discovered that the cable to the heatbed was sometimes caught between the on/off switch and the adjacent power plug. So, for high Y values the cable was very tight and the bed could not be moved. Presumably the &amp;quot;knocking&amp;quot; came from the Y-axis motor. The problem was fixed by attaching this cable to the adjacent hotend/X axis motor cable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hopefully this will be helpful to others who have a similar problem. Please add a comment if you experienced this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="35023" LastEditorUserId="35023" LastEditDate="2022-08-19T20:36:02.390" LastActivityDate="2022-08-19T20:36:02.390" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19794" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19768" CreationDate="2022-08-19T16:00:44.523" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have 12 parts for a model I want to print but I would like to know if I can put all of them in a single G-code file and print that on its own.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You certainly can. The printer doesn't care how many parts there are. Many single parts, like those with holes, will have layers that have areas that aren't contiguous. To the printer, multiple parts look just like a single part that happens not to be connected.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, printing multiple parts at once means that the job will be larger and take longer, and a problem printing any of those parts can force you to stop the whole job. Because small parts have less area in contact with the bed, small parts are more likely to come loose from the bed during  the print, so running a job with many small parts can be risky -- if any one part comes loose, you might lose all the time and material you put into the whole job.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One tool that can help mitigate that risk is the &lt;a href=&quot;https://plugins.octoprint.org/plugins/cancelobject/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Cancel Objects plugin&lt;/a&gt; for &lt;a href=&quot;https://octoprint.org&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;OctoPrint&lt;/a&gt;. If you use OctoPrint to manage your printer, you can use the plugin to stop further work on any objects that have problems during the print and continue with the rest. &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/ANfOr2F79LQ&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Here's a video&lt;/a&gt; about using Cancel Objects.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, when printing multiple parts, be sure to check that you have enough material (filament, resin, etc) available to complete the whole job.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1690" LastEditorUserId="1690" LastEditDate="2022-08-21T02:01:24.403" LastActivityDate="2022-08-21T02:01:24.403" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19796" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19789" CreationDate="2022-08-19T21:11:06.763" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your nozzle is very much too high to properly print just about any filament. If the filament sticks to the nozzle after it is positioned closer to the bed, you have two problems. The first is the initial layer position, sometimes called z-offset. The second is bed adhesion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While the bed is cool, clean it carefully using the appropriate substance for your bed. I'm not familiar with that specific printer, but a glass bed can be cleaned by just about anything, while PEI beds should not have acetone as the cleaning substance. IPA or Denatured Alcohol is pretty safe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you can get a clean bed and good adhesion, bring the nozzle back to an appropriate height. 0.4 mm is the most common nozzle diameter (perhaps until lately) and will provide near zero adhesion. 0.15 is the value I use for my printer, but each printer will be different.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You don't want ropy stringy build lines, nor do you want a nozzle that flattens the filament into something you can't remove when cool. I've had too-low nozzle height in which the filament was nearly transparent and was nearly impossible to remove.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastActivityDate="2022-08-19T21:11:06.763" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19797" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-08-20T03:23:34.387" Score="0" ViewCount="33" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am interested in references to designs which use a customized support instead of the slicer's default normal/tree support.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The background is this: I am making a hubcap with a 3D logo. I do not want to place the logo on the print bed because the logo will become very messy. So, I place the rim of the hubcap on the bed. This means that a lot of support is needed. With support = normal the print time taken is 36.5 hours using 290 g of filament. With support = tree the time taken is 29.5 hours using 200 g of filament. In comparison, with support = none the time taken is 14.5 hours using 115 g of filament, but of course is not practical. So, I decided to make my own support and I manually inserted it at a specified layer - just below the top disk and the logo above it. The design included some small brackets to hold the support. The time taken and amount of filament is the same as no support - about half the time &amp;amp; amount for tree support! Here is what the support looks like:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TfeLg.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TfeLg.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I intended to snip away the mesh, but it blends in quite well with the layer above it. (Perhaps a finer mesh is easier to remove.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am interested to know of others who have designed customized supports.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="35023" LastActivityDate="2022-08-20T07:13:46.380" Title="References wanted for designing customized support" Tags="|support-structures|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2022-08-30T02:45:53.133" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19798" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19797" CreationDate="2022-08-20T07:04:55.543" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;In this situation I probably wouldn't use supports at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd put something round on the bed that fits the space instead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31811" LastEditorUserId="31811" LastEditDate="2022-08-20T07:13:46.380" LastActivityDate="2022-08-20T07:13:46.380" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19799" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19797" CreationDate="2022-08-20T07:08:00.063" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your question may be closed for being somewhat vague and outside the scope of the SE, but consider to view &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RPijCjz9G1w&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Maker's Muse video&lt;/a&gt; about creating alternatives to slicer-generated supports.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The video suggests creating primitives in locations appropriate to the overall design. For example, an unsupported &amp;quot;shelf&amp;quot; or &amp;quot;ledge&amp;quot; could result in a massive number of supports if left to the slicer. The MM method suggests that a small rectangular prism on the edge of the ledge turns the object from an unsupported item to a bridging solution. If the gap is excessive, multiple primitives in strategic locations would reduce the slicer-generated support.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qgY3N.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qgY3N.png&quot; alt=&quot;user generated support primitive&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;Image is screen shot from linked video.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've had to print a counterbore that I did not want to load with supports. The primitive was a simple cylinder with a diameter of 0.4 mm larger than the diameter of the hole. This created a peg attached to the edge of the counterbore, which the slicer saw as a bridging solution. Easily snapped clean after the print completed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastActivityDate="2022-08-20T07:08:00.063" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19800" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19789" CreationDate="2022-08-20T07:42:54.753" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;With one brand of PETG I used 110 degrees on the build plate and 240 for the nozzle. Couldn't get a decent first layer before that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31811" LastActivityDate="2022-08-20T07:42:54.753" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19801" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19775" CreationDate="2022-08-20T08:52:12.950" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The problem not with marlin,&#xA;The board is reset by the Serial port DTR line going low and pulsing the Arduino reset pin,&#xA;You can prevent this if you can disable DTR on your PC or by removing the capacitor that connects the DTR Serial pin to the reset pin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30745" LastActivityDate="2022-08-20T08:52:12.950" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19802" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-08-20T11:25:26.143" Score="1" ViewCount="110" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking at getting several resin vats. So that I can use different colors of resin without having to worry about cleaning them out between prints.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are plastic vats inherently inferior to metal ones, and if so what issues might I run into. I'm a hobbyist, I'm not running a farm. So 3 or fewer prints a week.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="29097" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2022-08-20T12:57:27.570" LastActivityDate="2022-08-20T12:57:27.570" Title="Are plastic resin vats inherently inferior to metal ones?" Tags="|resin|hardware|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19803" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-08-20T12:40:48.363" Score="2" ViewCount="984" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know that 3D printed parts can be coated in metal by painting them with conductive paint (graphite or copper seems to be usual) and then electroplating them in a commercial copper or nickel bath. The disadvantage of this process is that it does not coat insides very well, because those are not reached by the electric field.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know that in the industry for plating ABS-parts with chrome and other metals, there is a process used where first the ABS is etched, then seeded with electroless catalytic palladium and then there are various options, for example electroless nickel or chrome.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried to etch both FDM printed ABS and ABS-like resin prints in NaOH, then after rinsing, dropped them in a commercial palladium activator and, after rinsing again, then in an electroless nickel bath, without any effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone have an idea on how to metal plate 3D printed parts (by electroless plating, meaning no electricity involved) and can shed some light on the chemicals used? I would prefer to mix them myself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="34449" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2022-08-23T11:22:20.807" LastActivityDate="2022-10-07T01:52:16.473" Title="Metal coating 3D printed parts (electroless plating)" Tags="|resin|fdm|post-processing|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19804" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19802" CreationDate="2022-08-20T12:56:16.700" Score="1" Body="&lt;h1&gt;At that rate one vat is enough&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With 3 or less prints, you have enough time to drain the resin back into the bottle and &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/14500/8884&quot;&gt;prevent it from aging.&lt;/a&gt; Multiple Vats only become relevant if you need speed to swap between materials - which for a hobbyist generally is not an issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;For swapping often, you need maybe two identical vats fitting your machine&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even if you increase your work rate, you only need at worst two vats that belong to your machine type: remove one, put it out to drain, insert the other one, fill it. That reduces the gap between material swaps to minutes instead of hours.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Only rarely you benefit from more...&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You don't generally get too much more benefit from having more vats. The only upside you get from more vats is, if you have a small range of colors and swap often. But then you &lt;em&gt;also&lt;/em&gt; need vats that have a lid, because you need to seal your vats for storage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Material of the vat doesn't matter usually&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The vat can be from whatever material it wants, it needs to &lt;strong&gt;belong to the machine.&lt;/strong&gt; You can't use an Elego Mars vat in a Prusa machine, and neither in a Stratasys SLA. You are locked into the ecosystem of replacement parts from your printer supplier, so you have to use the parts for your printer anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastActivityDate="2022-08-20T12:56:16.700" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19806" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19803" CreationDate="2022-08-21T04:24:54.917" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is another option where the plating is done like brushing paint. The electroplating is just done a different way but has the same effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's called &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wktymv8fsus&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;brush plating&lt;/a&gt;. There's a bunch of different products (none of which I have tried) and the youtube results are pretty impressive. They do need a current as it's electroplating, but you don't immerse the object, the current is through the brush etc,.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31811" LastActivityDate="2022-08-21T04:24:54.917" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19807" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-08-21T17:38:00.383" Score="3" ViewCount="698" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm very new to 3D printing. When my printer was new, I got loads of really good prints, however, now they're all failing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suspected that the nozzle was in bad shape, so I replaced it, but even now, the prints are still quite bad.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suspect that the filament is not coming out properly. (extruding?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a Creality Ender CR6 SE. and I'm using Overture Matte White PLA. I've tried using the default 200 °C nozzle and 60 °C print bed temperatures and I've also tried on the upper end of the recommended temperatures at 230 °C and 70 °C.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've also tried reducing the print speed to 70 %.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a picture of the first layer of  a raft:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pQdGD.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pQdGD.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And here's a picture of a few layers in (still of the raft):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JqnSe.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JqnSe.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just before this print I did an auto-level and cleaned the printbed with warm soapy water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the print if I leave it going:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7TBDn.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7TBDn.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additional Info: I used the auto-level feature on the CR 6 SE before any of the pictures and used Cura Slicer for slicing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When using the hairspray method, I managed to get a print out - that print is a 3D Benchy:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cdXfj.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cdXfj.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not looking too good. Also - as you can see, I used a different filament.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using the hairspray again, I tried printing this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vN9i5.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vN9i5.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But ended up with this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PSSmF.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PSSmF.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;UPDATE 3&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ok, So I've found something that's probably not a good thing and I need some advice on it. I think the problem is with the print bed. I  found that it can wobble. If I put slight pressure on the front of the bed, the front goes down and the back goes up. Not by much, but there's definite give.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I print a big circle, the left of the circle is &amp;quot;thinner&amp;quot; than it should be, unless I push down slightly on the print bed. If I do that, then the print thickness on that part of the bed seems to be correct.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, if I keep that pressure while the nozzle goes around then the print loses adhesion. As soon as I release the pressure and the print bed goes back to what it was, then the print regains adhesion (on that side).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, if I leave it like that, then the nozzle will be too close to the bed on the other side again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now I know. This is a tramming (leveling - are these words completely synonymous?) issue, but when I paid extra for the auto-leveling with the Ender CR6 SE, I paid that extra so that I wouldn't need to mess around with stuff like this. Is this money wasted?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Print nozzle too close on the left, too far on the right:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rMBag.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rMBag.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Should I contact Creality and try to return the printer and get a cheaper one that I'm going to have to manually level/tram anyway?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="34792" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2022-08-27T19:32:59.100" LastActivityDate="2022-11-01T08:27:27.203" Title="Prints not sticking to bed or just not extruding?" Tags="|print-quality|adhesion|creality-cr-6|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19808" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19807" CreationDate="2022-08-21T20:33:52.243" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It almost looks like that nozzle is too far away from the bed. Try releveling your bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="35136" LastActivityDate="2022-08-21T20:33:52.243" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19809" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19789" CreationDate="2022-08-21T20:40:56.607" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I agree with fred_dot_u, you are too far away from the bed. If you can't get it after that, I would suggest using &lt;a href=&quot;https://layerneer.com/products-bed-weld-original/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Bed Weld by Layerneer&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bBAt5.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Product photo of Bed Weld by Layerneer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bBAt5.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Product photo of Bed Weld by Layerneer&quot; title=&quot;Product photo of Bed Weld by Layerneer&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="35136" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2022-08-21T21:35:25.940" LastActivityDate="2022-08-21T21:35:25.940" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19810" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19807" CreationDate="2022-08-22T01:12:33.350" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd be inclined to blame the filament. So my first troubleshooting measure would be to use another filament. If the problem persisted then I'd check all the belts are tight and give the printer a clean with some canned air.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is assuming your levelling and settings are the same as when it was working ok. Not sure about this assumption because it does look as if your levelling is off for the first layer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31811" LastActivityDate="2022-08-22T01:12:33.350" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19811" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19807" CreationDate="2022-08-22T08:25:44.173" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The CR-6 SE uses strain gauge based sensing for the auto leveling. This implies that the nozzle itself is the probe for the leveling procedure. It is important that there is no filament left on the nozzle and no debris is on the bed (of so, this causes incorrect measurement of the bed surface and results in a too large of a gap between the nozzle and the bed).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Normally, when you replace a nozzle, you need to re-assess the distance between the nozzle and bed with the so-called &amp;quot;paper thickness&amp;quot; method.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This video of the CR-6 shows that paper is still required:&#xA;&lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/QRyJRGzTGYE?start=0&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As seen from the first layer of the raft (which by the way is totally unnecessary for PLA) the nozzle is too far from the bed, you see this in balling up of filament and cutting corners where filament is dragged and not deposited. The video does show that it is required to set the Z-offset to the correct value during the printing of the first layer. It is advisable to decrease the Z-offset, alternatively you can set a Z-offset in the slicer, e.g. Ultimaker Cura has a plugin called Z-offset made by Fieldofview to set a different offset directly as slicer option.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may also have an adhesion problem, probably caused by the incorrect distance, but an adhesive might be beneficial too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Reprint and post a question on the quality of the print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2022-08-26T22:20:50.850" LastActivityDate="2022-08-26T22:20:50.850" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19812" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19301" CreationDate="2022-08-22T17:18:11.257" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just got an LK5 and printed the included Benchy gcode. It looks pretty similar to the benchy in the pics with some of the blobs in the same location. Then I downloaded the benchy from Thingiverse and sliced it with the Longer 1.3 Slicer. Pretty good results from doing that but it took longer to print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="35141" LastActivityDate="2022-08-22T17:18:11.257" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19813" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-08-23T04:43:57.997" Score="4" ViewCount="334" Body="&lt;p&gt;I thought the answer was ABS, but I read about how some people used it to print parts that were used in plumbing, and they failed when put under constant load, and some said that PETG is better for this application. I want to print bases for my table legs, would PETG be a better material to use?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="34950" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2022-08-23T04:49:02.477" LastActivityDate="2024-01-16T01:04:00.460" Title="Which filament is best for printing parts that will endue a constant load for a long period of time?" Tags="|filament|abs|petg|filament-choice|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19814" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19813" CreationDate="2022-08-23T07:04:30.320" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;PETG creeps more than ABS/ASA, so I think you should still pick those. Be sure to print them hot and in a closed chamber, but you are loading in compression, so you won't have big issues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See these tests for creep:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/b5scr5Yuxe4?start=2117&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The conclusion is that ASA deforms in the beginning and then it stops. PETG in tensile keeps stretching, but in compression seems fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think ABS is still the best, especially if you use a pure ABS, not an ABS+. Rather than an ABS+ use ASA.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since it's not critical and if it breaks it's no big deal (likely it will get thinner with time), PETG is an alternative you can try.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2338" LastActivityDate="2022-08-23T07:04:30.320" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19815" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4804" CreationDate="2022-08-23T08:47:30.760" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't have a printer like yours but it should not matter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you follow the calibration steps listed at &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/AndrewEllis93/Print-Tuning-Guide/blob/main/articles/extrusion_multiplier.md&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://github.com/AndrewEllis93/Print-Tuning-Guide/blob/main/articles/extrusion_multiplier.md&lt;/a&gt; and you set the slicer to 0.1 mm, you should be able to print working threads at the first attempt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I printed in PLA a thread (both screw and nut) with a 1.5 mm pitch and it worked immediately (it was a bit hard to turn, it got better after using it few times).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A G 1/2 thread (pipe thread) in ASA (only nut) also worked immediately.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had more issues with deep threads: M30x1.5 worked immediately, but I couldn't get M30x3 mm to work. Basically printing threads with pitch from 0.8 to 1.5 mm should be fine if the axis is vertical.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;0.1 mm layer height is important to keep overhangs small, see video&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/YPAXeBuq9qU?start=541&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The nozzle is not so important, you can use 0.4-0.6 without issues. I used 0.4 mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2338" LastActivityDate="2022-08-23T08:47:30.760" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19816" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19803" CreationDate="2022-08-23T19:21:06.640" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can use semiconductor processes like evaporation, sputtering, and chemical vapor deposition.  These are expensive.  Sputtering is probably the most feasable but it will have trouble with shadows.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15075" LastActivityDate="2022-08-23T19:21:06.640" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19817" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19813" CreationDate="2022-08-23T22:26:04.077" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;For table leg stoppers and things like sandwich signs I use TPU, never had a problem with them yet. They're flexible and strong. Which means you can design them to insert easily and lock themselves in place. They're forgiving if your table leg is not quite evenly prepared at the bottom.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only problem I can think of which would also apply to any other material is if they have to deal with a sharp edge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31811" LastActivityDate="2022-08-23T22:26:04.077" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19818" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19300" CreationDate="2022-08-23T23:52:05.173" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think I have a solution for this. Please follow the steps mentioned in this &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/gpokhark/Octopi_Setting&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Github page of mine&lt;/a&gt; for the Wifi connectivity issue. I rarely have any issues with the wifi signal dropping randomly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wi-Fi connectivity issue&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Ensure that you have set up a static IP address for your Raspberry Pi.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Ensure that the command &lt;code&gt;sudo ifconfig wlan0 up&lt;/code&gt; and &lt;code&gt;sudo ifconfig wlan0 down&lt;/code&gt; works without the user password requirement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;To run the aforementioned commands without a password, do the following steps:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;sudo nano /etc/sudoers.d/010_pi-nopasswd&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Add the following line to the file&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;pi ALL=(ALL) NOPASSWD: /sbin/ifconfig wlan0 up, /sbin/ifconfig wlan0 down&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here &lt;code&gt;pi&lt;/code&gt; indicates the username of the Raspberry; update it as per your name.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Try running the commands &lt;code&gt;sudo ifconfig wlan0 up&lt;/code&gt; and &lt;code&gt;sudo ifconfig wlan0 down&lt;/code&gt;, it shouldn't ask for a password.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Beware before running the previous command ensure that you have not recently typed the password for any other &lt;code&gt;sudo&lt;/code&gt; command or else try this in a new terminal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;To know more about this search the command &lt;code&gt;sudo visudo&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;code&gt;check_wifi.sh&lt;/code&gt; - script to check if Raspberry Pi is still connected to the wifi or not. If not then it restarts the wlan0.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#!/bin/sh&#xA;# keep wifi alive&#xA;if ping -c3 192.168.0.1 #router ip address&#xA;then&#xA;    echo &amp;quot;......&amp;quot;&#xA;    echo &amp;quot;No network connection, restarting wlan0&amp;quot;&#xA;&#xA;    sudo ifconfig wlan0 down&#xA;    sleep 30&#xA;    sudo ifconfig wlan0 up&#xA;&#xA;else&#xA;    echo &amp;quot;Wifi working normally.&amp;quot;&#xA;fi&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Add a cron job to check the WiFi connectivity every 5 minutes - &lt;code&gt;sudo crontab -e&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;# cron job for checking the wifi connection every 5 minutes&#xA;*/5 * * * * /home/pi/Octopi_Setting/check_wifi.sh &amp;gt; /dev/null 2&amp;gt;&amp;amp;1&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additional resources:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.cyberciti.biz/faq/linux-show-what-cron-jobs-are-setup/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;How to list, display and view all cron jobs in Linux&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.cyberciti.biz/faq/how-do-i-add-jobs-to-cron-under-linux-or-unix-oses/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;How To Add Jobs To cron Under Linux or UNIX&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://forums.fedoraforum.org/showthread.php?180471-Editing-sudoers-to-allow-ifconfig-only-on-certain-interfaces&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Editing sudoers to allow ifconfig only on certain interfaces&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://unix.stackexchange.com/questions/163347/add-test-user-to-the-sudoers-file-to-run-ifconfig&quot;&gt;Add test user to the sudoers file, to run ifconfig&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="35107" LastEditorUserId="4625" LastEditDate="2022-08-24T12:24:35.140" LastActivityDate="2022-08-24T12:24:35.140" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19819" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-08-23T23:53:08.323" Score="2" ViewCount="290" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have heard many times that silk PLA is PLA with some unspecified elastomers in it, but without any reliable reference to confirm this statement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it contains elastomers it should be more flexible and elastic than standard PLA I guess, but I have tried many silk brands and this doesn't seems true and actually in my experience on contrary it looks like harder and &amp;quot;less&amp;quot; elastic than standard PLA on average.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since all silk seem behaving very similar, could be assumed that even if the specific blend changes from a brand to another with different secondary additives the &amp;quot;main recipe&amp;quot; ingredients are basically the same.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does Silk PLA really contain elastomers as additives? If yes, since elastomers are an huge family what categories of elastomers?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20123" LastEditorUserId="20123" LastEditDate="2022-08-30T15:26:26.957" LastActivityDate="2022-08-30T15:26:26.957" Title="Does Silk PLA really contains elastomers as additives?" Tags="|pla|print-material|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19820" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-08-24T01:48:40.003" Score="1" ViewCount="231" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just a quick question, Does Klipper support Expansion Boards?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31326" LastActivityDate="2022-08-24T01:48:40.003" Title="Bigtree GTR V1.0 + M5 (Klipper) Can Klipper access my M5 expansion board?" Tags="|diy-3d-printer|bigtreetech|klipper|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19821" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15985" CreationDate="2022-08-24T03:39:15.393" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Do not overlook the possibility of the card not being formatted properly&lt;/strong&gt; like I did. Make sure it is FAT32 or another supported format.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="32899" LastActivityDate="2022-08-24T03:39:15.393" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19823" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-08-24T10:06:00.590" Score="2" ViewCount="986" Body="&lt;p&gt;The filament &amp;quot;swells&amp;quot; up to the inner diameter of the feeding pipe, from the nozzle to about the end of the heat-sink. This happens after a few hours of printing. It happened using a new nozzle (0.2 mm) and a new tube - the same clog is the reason why I changed both.  When this happens, the filament can't be pulled from the tube - I had to cut it open on the end to remove the filament, thus shortening the tube with each clog. The nozzle had no filament in it when I removed it and isn't clogged up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When installing the nozzle and tube, I first screw in the nozzle, heat it up and torque it a bit, then I slide the tube in all the way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cb8AJ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cb8AJ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Length of thick filament&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Aa8CR.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Aa8CR.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;No filament in nozzle&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="35152" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2022-09-01T11:00:35.547" LastActivityDate="2022-09-01T11:00:35.547" Title="Ender 3 v2 - Filament clog before nozzle" Tags="|creality-ender-3|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19825" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-08-25T18:08:16.807" Score="1" ViewCount="601" Body="&lt;p&gt;I wanted to build a 4-wheel ground robot vehicle with a payload of 25 kg for outdoor use, but I wanted to make the frame/chassis using a 3D printer. The outside temperature ranges between 30 °C-35 °C and the humidity is 70-90%. I think the vehicle would be outside for 4 hours at a time. The dimensions of the vehicle would be about 1.0 m x 0.8 m x 0.8 m (LxWxH). From other stack exchange questions and some reading online, my choices have come down to ASA, PC, and Nylon. It's important that the printed part doesn't deform outside. I think I'm leaning towards Nylon for tensile strength, toughness, and heat deflection, but I don't know how the Nylon printed part will hold in high humidity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has anyone had experience with Nylon in the outdoor conditions I mentioned? Was it difficult to print a large surface area Nylon part (I'm thinking of printing with the filament directly coming out of an active dryer)? Which bed surface were you using? Would you recommend any other filaments?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="35170" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2022-08-25T18:52:26.893" LastActivityDate="2022-08-26T11:16:50.993" Title="What filament to use for outdoor high humidity, temperature, and payload?" Tags="|print-material|nylon|asa|heat|outdoors|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19827" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19825" CreationDate="2022-08-26T00:40:35.357" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;My first choice for this would be PET. Not PETG, which is a mess of blobbing, stringing, warping, creep under load, etc., but real PET, also known as BPET (bottle PET) or HTPET (high temperature PET, because it needs high temperatures to print and has high HDT)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unlike ASA, PC, and nylon, PET is easy to print. It does not need a heated chamber or even a heated bed (although it does a little better with the bed a little above room temperature, at 30-45°C) and you don't have to fight with warping or compensate for significant part shrinkage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The HTPET I use is rated for high HDT, 87°C as-is, and 100°C annealed. You can probably arrange for it to self-anneal during the printing process with the right settings; I'm planning to experiment with this at some point. To give you an idea how readily it anneals, the smokestack of a Benchy tends to anneal while printing it just from the accumulation of heat in a small area.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It needs high print temperatures. 275°C is about the minimum. The manufacturer of the HTPET I used recommends 285°C for high speed, but I've found flow increases all the way up to around 320°C if you want to go faster.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is somewhat hard to find PET filament, despite it being fairly easy to make your own from recycling bottles. I would not really recommend that for your project because it's hard to get perfect flow to simultaneously ensure precision and part strength. There are at least a few manufacturers selling it in the US and probably elsewhere though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2022-08-26T00:40:35.357" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19828" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-08-26T05:40:25.867" Score="0" ViewCount="447" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Benchy looks good for the most part except for some boogers on the chimney&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fV2oD.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Photo of a printed Benchy with zits on the chimney&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fV2oD.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Photo of a printed benchy with zits on the chimney&quot; title=&quot;Photo of a printed Benchy with zits on the chimney&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And some stringing on the bow, near the front deck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EimB6.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Photo of the top of a printed Benchy with minor stringing problems&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EimB6.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Photo of the top of a printed benchy with minor stringing problems&quot; title=&quot;Photo of the top of a printed Benchy with minor stringing problems&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are my settings. On another roll of Inland PETG, I printed a Benchy at 30 mm/s and it came out perfect. Is there any way to improve my results at higher speeds? Maybe 4 or 5 for retraction and/or faster retraction speeds? I figure I ask before taking shots in the dark. I was told to not go below 235 °C for PETG so that seems like lowering the temperature is out of the question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas? Below are my settings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The printer is a Sovol Sv01 Pro (this is similar to an Ender 3 S1)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;direct drive extruder&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Creality silent board&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;CR Touch&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Marlin 2.0&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;hot end like and Ender 3 Pro with an MK8&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;PEI sheet&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;K value 2.0 - this was the factory setting&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All the parts are pretty new since I bought the printer on an Amazon Prime day about a month ago.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Settings (using Inland PETG - Yellow):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a few days ago it had a 6hr session in a filament dryer&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;235 °C nozzle&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;70 °C bed&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;retraction 3.0 mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;print speed 40 mm/s&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;print acceleration 500 mm/s&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;jerk 12 mm/s&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="35019" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2022-08-27T05:41:08.797" LastActivityDate="2022-08-27T05:41:08.797" Title="PETG Benchy boogers and stringing" Tags="|petg|direct-drive|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19829" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19828" CreationDate="2022-08-26T08:27:11.450" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is based on an ATMEGA chip, which may struggle with high CPU load.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The blobs can be likely avoided by reducing complexity of the model when slicing, see video&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/Hvw3DrVAeTA?start=382&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2338" LastActivityDate="2022-08-26T08:27:11.450" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19830" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19825" CreationDate="2022-08-26T08:30:43.243" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The application doesn't look to be demanding at all from a material point of view. Operation below 40 °C and 70-90% RH is not that special.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once taken out PLA for creep, most rigid filaments would work. Nylon deform under constant stress, so screws may get loose over time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PETG, ABS, ABS+ (TitanX/niceABS are about as easy to print as PLA), ASA, ...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For ease of print, PETG or ABS+ should be fine, but ABS will deform more before breaking, while PETG tends to shatter when it breaks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2338" LastEditorUserId="2338" LastEditDate="2022-08-26T11:16:50.993" LastActivityDate="2022-08-26T11:16:50.993" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19831" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19828" CreationDate="2022-08-26T19:24:17.270" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;While you did use a dryer, the bumps on the surface look like moisture bubbles.  I've found it difficult to completely dry out PETG once it gains moisture, although drying is a great improvement.  Going straight from the filament dry pack to a dryer that feeds filament straight to the printer has done the best.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15075" LastActivityDate="2022-08-26T19:24:17.270" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19833" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-08-26T21:31:29.823" Score="3" ViewCount="5900" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm attaching a picture to show my issue. I'm hoping might be an easy settings fix, or at least maybe someone has a couple suggestions I can try. I'm using an Ender 3, and the program Cura. The print on the left was printed with the opening facing up. The print on the right with the hole facing down. The support leaves a rough surface. Any suggestions for support settings would be appreciated. &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AnkLP.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AnkLP.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="35150" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2022-08-26T22:47:44.087" LastActivityDate="2022-08-30T07:27:02.943" Title="Layer above support is very rough" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|support-structures|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19834" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19833" CreationDate="2022-08-26T22:25:21.890" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's only so much you can do about this without a multi-material printer that can utilize dissolvable material or material that doesn't bond to the print material, and print the supports at zero distance from the model. So expect it to be ugly. But not quite that ugly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Slicers, including Cura, have options to control the Z distance between the support material and your model, among other things. Reducing this will make it harder to remove the supports, but will give a better bottom surface. It only really works on whole-layer granularity in Cura (while some other slicers let you do arbitrary distances), and really should always be equal to one layer. A distance of two or more layers will give really bad results, which might be what you're seeing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, Cura has an option called &amp;quot;support interface&amp;quot;, which you want on. This prints a flat top surface on top of the support, below your print, so that all the lines of the print have something they're resting on. Without this, the bottom surface over the support will sag down between the lines of the support and look very bad - or, if it's a small detail, it might sink entirely between lines of the support and effectively not be supported at all!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, one hack you can try if you don't have a multi-material printer but want to try printing supports at zero distance from your model: set support Z distance to zero and use a slicer plugin to pause-at-height just past the top surface of the support. Then, when the printer pauses, paint a release agent that won't bond to the print material on top of the support. Reportedly Sharpie permanent markers work as such a release agent, but I haven't tried this, and there are probably better choices.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2022-08-26T22:25:21.890" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19835" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19833" CreationDate="2022-08-26T22:45:50.583" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You cannot print into the air (hot filament will sag when not supported). Do remember that even with support enabled, you are printing into air. This is because there is always a gap between the print object and the support structure, the option is called &lt;code&gt;Z distance&lt;/code&gt;. If there wasn't a gap, the print object will fuse to the support structure. You may want to increase fan cooling or decrease the Z distance between support and print object to get better print results, but, print orientation is also important, sometimes placing an object under an angle works. In the example you provided, it is clear that  it is better printed upright (unless there is a recess at the other side).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From experience, to increase the surface above the support structure, having the option &lt;code&gt;Enable support interface&lt;/code&gt; enabled will add a dense surface on top of the support structure. This surface, in conjunction with the correct gap and cooling when dialed in correctly will provide better surfaces above support structures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://support.ultimaker.com/hc/en-us/articles/360012612779-Support-settings&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Z distance&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;em&gt;(in Ultimaker Cura)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;This refers to the distance from the top and bottom of the support structure relative to the model. This setting is divided into the top distance and bottom distance. The top distance defines the distance between the top of the support and bottom of the model and the bottom distance refers to the distance between the bottom of the support and top part of the model.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KMUX6.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KMUX6.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;A small distance between the support structure and parts of the model is necessary in order to remove the supports easily after the model has been printed. A low value creates a smoother surface, but can also make it more difficult to remove the support properly.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2022-08-26T22:45:50.583" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19836" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-08-28T15:04:38.237" Score="4" ViewCount="1288" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to make some prints of pressure resistants. I am currently trying to print a simple cylinder to find the best parameters to make my prints airtight (by airtight I mean, it needs to resist to 10 bar).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is the test model that I have made for this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IQyNO.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Screenshot of a model for a pressure resistant&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IQyNO.png&quot; alt=&quot;Screenshot of a model for a pressure resistant&quot; title=&quot;Screenshot of a model for a pressure resistant&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are the parameters that I have changed in Cura:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;layer height: 0.1 mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;infill : 100 %&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;print temp: 250 °C (high temp to make the layers stick between them)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;wall line count: 5&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;infill overlap: 40 %&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;flow: 115 %&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But all these changes in Cura don't give good results for ABS. It's not even airtight at 2.5 bar:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rt0B8.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Photo of pressure resistant under water producing bubbles; not airtight&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rt0B8.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Photo of pressure resistant under water producing bubbles; not airtight&quot; title=&quot;Photo of pressure resistant under water producing bubbles; not airtight&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And here is a mid-cut of the print :&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EkNP6.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Photo of pressure resistant cut in two to show internal structure&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EkNP6.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Photo of pressure resistant cut in two to show internal structure&quot; title=&quot;Photo of pressure resistant cut in two to show internal structure&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do you have any ideas/suggestions to have better results? Can it be from the ABS itself? There is a sort of white powder between the layers, is this normal for ABS? Should I try using PETG? What could I change in my parameters?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="35198" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2022-08-28T18:49:55.117" LastActivityDate="2022-08-30T12:20:32.877" Title="Make a 3D print airtight 10 bar (140 psi)" Tags="|creality-ender-3|abs|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19837" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19836" CreationDate="2022-08-28T16:49:33.820" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is going to be hard. Even holding a vacuum is hard (I've tried it and not succeeded). I'm not sure what the mechanism of air molecules getting thru the print is - whether it's defects in inter-layer bonding, defects at seams, imperfect mating with the fitting, or even permeability of the plastic itself. It might not actually be existing flaws in the print, but rather the high pressure being a stronger force than the bonded layers can withstand, essentially ripping the layers apart from the weakest point until the pressure can discharge through the opening produced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If using ABS, you might try an acetone bath followed by a long period of trying or use of vacuum chamber to quickly remove the solvent, if you can stand some possible part deformation. This would tend to fill any gaps. Coating with low-viscosity CA glue (Loctite 420 or equivalent) might be a better version of this approach, as the solvent will both attack the ABS and deliver fill material.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In principle PET (maybe also PETG, but PET is preferable anyway if you can get it) should be a suitable material for pressure vessels, as it's what's used for soda bottles at comparable pressure, but those are blown from a single piece, not fused together with seams.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At some point I will attempt this again, and will update my answer if I have any findings that contribute to your question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2022-08-28T16:49:33.820" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19838" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19836" CreationDate="2022-08-28T19:11:07.407" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's very difficult to get accurate internal sizing with 3D printing for this sort of application. It's also difficult to get it airtight without some sort of post-processing. My group wrote a &lt;a href=&quot;https://threedmedprint.biomedcentral.com/articles/10.1186/s41205-021-00129-1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;paper on the flow dynamics of pressure restrictors made with 3D printing&lt;/a&gt;. In short, I'd suggest you use a drill or mill to produce such parts. We were using pressures &amp;lt; 0.1bar and still struggled to get them to seal without post-processing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="34851" LastActivityDate="2022-08-28T19:11:07.407" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19839" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19886" CreationDate="2022-08-29T17:50:08.960" Score="3" ViewCount="165" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I'm printing sometimes there is some &amp;quot;transparency&amp;quot; between the layers as you can see in the picture, I'm not sure how to name the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/h2Axe.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/h2Axe.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've looked on google, somes people said It could be the nozzle that is clogged, I cleaned it and it doesn't seem clogged.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've also seen that it could be the pressure of the spring in the extruder arm, I adjusted it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also checked the bed level and it looks fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With all thoses changes et verifications I still have the problem, not even a small improve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some time ago I didn't have any problem, I didn't change the cura parameters, and the problem is for every 3D files, not only this one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In your experience what could cause this ? Did I do something wrong ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a artillery sidewinder x1 which I use together with Cura. I print in PLA at 200 °C. The print bed is set to 50 °C . I use a print cooling fan at 100 %. The layer height I set to 0.16 mm, the line width 0.44 from the 0.4 mm nozzle. The Printing Speed is set to 30 mm/s for walls and 60 mm/s for infill. My retraction is 5 mm at 45 mm/s.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT 30/08/2022:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have tried to print the gcode given by artillery (which is the manufacturer of the 3d printer), there is two files a cube and a chick, I have the same problem except that it's only the infill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VMEtt.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VMEtt.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This file is supposed to be perfect for the printer so to my understanding the problem is not from the software setting in cura, but from the printer itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="35209" LastEditorUserId="35209" LastEditDate="2022-08-30T19:59:42.277" LastActivityDate="2022-09-09T09:06:59.973" Title="Why is there some transparency between the layers of my print?" Tags="|print-quality|artillery-sidewinder-x1|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19840" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19657" CreationDate="2022-08-29T22:56:45.100" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The root cause was a badly worn nozzle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem described in this question gradually became more and more severe and began affecting PLA and PET prints with thin layers too. Eventually I traced it to the CHT nozzle, by swapping in a 50¢ plain brass nozzle, and found someone with otherwise very similar extrusion system to test on their CHT and confirm that the prints giving me problems came out fine for them. Replacing my CHT with a new one has now made it all better. My old one was roughly 0.16 mm shorter (by difference in Z offset) presumably from wear, and to look at the orifice, it was probably nearly 0.8 mm wide. If so, it was like trying to print 0.4 mm lines with an 0.8 mm nozzle, which is expected to fail moderately to badly, especially on overhangs. And this explains why increasing flow (or, as I later tried and had success with, using wider line widths) partly succeeded.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did still have a minor variant of the problem with TPU after switching to the new nozzle, before recalibrating pressure advance, which I'd calibrated down somewhat before (due to less pressure with an excessively wide orifice). After recalibrating, the problem seems to be entirely gone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I still don't want to discount the factors I found before. It seems very plausible that this could come back whenever TPU is being printed without a firm surface to extrude against. In my case, the primary mechanism of that seems to have been a nozzle whose opening was excessively wide from wear, but the same should still happen if the wall is wobbling from lack of reinforcement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2022-08-29T22:56:45.100" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19841" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19833" CreationDate="2022-08-30T06:35:20.630" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is extra work, but if the overhang/recess is flat and parallel to the build plate, you can get a very nice surface finish, with a single material fdm printer. The trick is to put down a layer of blue masking tape  on a solid support structure the layer before the overhang prints.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could model in a throwaway “plug” with your model, with a 1mm horizontal gap between it and the real walls, and a single layer gap (like .2mm) vertically between the plug and the overhang surface. Or one could potentially futz with the support settings to generate a solid interface layer on top of the support and a one layer gap between the interface and the overhang.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once sliced, you program a pause at the end of the layer before the overhang.  It is good to program in few extras in the G-code: a movement to retract the filament to make it ooze less, and an X and Y G1 movement so the hotend doesn’t ooze on the model and make a lump. Last, a command to disable the X and Y motors so you can move the bed or carriage around to get it out of the way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once paused put down some blue masking tape over the pulg completely.  press it down and make an indent where the gap is.  Then cut out the plug shape in the masking tape with an exacto knife, following the indent.  Now is a good time to put the glue stick on the tape.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When ready to start the print again, home the X and Y axis, and extrude some filament, since undoubtedly the nozzle has oozed out the filament in the nozzle, you don’t want it shooting blanks when you start the next layer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is important to go SLOW when printing over the masking tape, or it won’t stick. It is also helpful to increase the extrusion temporarily to get it to stick better.  This can be done by hand, or programmed into the G-Code if you are running the job multiple times and don’t want to babysit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the print is done, the plug should be easily removed.  A little rinse of water can get rid of any residue from the glue stick.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rZ9sF.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rZ9sF.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Printing over raised masking tape area&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is some example G-Code of the pause, taping, and aftermath:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;G1 Z0.980 F9000.000 ; Z step to the layer with overhang to print&#xA;G1 E0.11935 F3900.00000 ; some extruder move&#xA;G92 E0 ; extruder length reset&#xA;G1 X25 ; move nozzle away from print&#xA;M18; disable steppers&#xA;&#xA;@pause painters tape ; printer pauses and displays message. Add tape, cut out. When finished, prime nozzle, remove blob with tweezers, immediately click continue&#xA;G28 X0 ;home  X axis&#xA;G28 Y0 ;home Y axis&#xA;G92 E0 ; reset extrusion distance&#xA;G1 E-1 ;retract&#xA;G92 E0&#xA;&#xA;M220 S25 ; slow speed to 25%, for better adhesion to painters tape. &#xA;;remember to add command later, after tape is covered, to speed it back to 100%&#xA;M221 S150 ; increase flow rate to 150%, to adhere to painters tape. return to 100% later!&#xA;&#xA;G92 E0&#xA;G1 X130.071 Y164.894 F9000.000 ; print job continues...&#xA;G1 E1.50000 F3900.00000&#xA;&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then later on, after the layer has gone down over the tape, add&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;M220 S100 ; return print speed to 100%&#xA;M221 S100 ; return extrusion rate to 100%&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27077" LastEditorUserId="27077" LastEditDate="2022-08-30T07:27:02.943" LastActivityDate="2022-08-30T07:27:02.943" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19842" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19836" CreationDate="2022-08-30T12:20:32.877" Score="1" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Not without postprocessing&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;FDM is pretty much welding plastic to plastic. Many many layers. Each of them is a potential breaking point, a corner for stress to arise and break the print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Easy with a hollow body&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Printing a hollow item that can be filled with resin is comparatively easy. Once filled with a monolithic curing resin (epoxy), that will take the pressure much better and seal it fully.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastActivityDate="2022-08-30T12:20:32.877" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19843" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-08-30T12:54:34.860" Score="1" ViewCount="1128" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a printer with a v3.1 BLTouch and a BTT SKR mini E3 V3 and I can't get the BLTouch to work as a probe while homing. I have tried both of the images provided &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/bigtreetech/BIGTREETECH-SKR-mini-E3/tree/master/firmware/V3.0/Marlin&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; and both cause the BLTouch to deploy properly but when I autohome and it gets to Z the BLtouch deploys (turns white) but the z axis doesn't move.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/bigtreetech/BIGTREETECH-SKR-mini-E3/issues/602&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this thread&lt;/a&gt; which provides an image that does work but not much about how he got it to work and there are some tweaks I would like to make. So no matter what I try when I try to build the image myself the ZProbe seems to not work. This experience seems to mirror others in the thread.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My Current configuration I am building &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/jrgleason/Marlin/tree/BTT_SKR_E3_V3_BLTOUCH&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;is available here&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know what other settings may be required to get a BLTouch as a ZMin Probe working with the newest version?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also quick side question the docs say that the 3.0.1 build &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/bigtreetech/BIGTREETECH-SKR-mini-E3/tree/master/firmware/V3.0.1/Marlin&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;does not support BLTouch&lt;/a&gt;, does anyone know why?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="24911" LastEditorUserId="24911" LastEditDate="2022-08-31T16:59:02.297" LastActivityDate="2022-09-04T15:13:41.220" Title="Why does the ZAxis not move when I autohome when using the BTT as a probe and the SKR e3V3 image?" Tags="|marlin|bltouch|bigtreetech|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19844" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15855" CreationDate="2022-08-30T20:27:40.523" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was able to just bend the brass piece on the switch toward the front of the printer.  Be careful of course, breaking it would be very bad.  That worked for me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="35216" LastActivityDate="2022-08-30T20:27:40.523" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19846" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-08-31T20:35:05.007" Score="3" ViewCount="443" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am trying to create a couple of holders for my ultrasonic cleaners. They are supposed to be used for parts that don't fit in the holder that came with the cleaners. I was wondering what material is best to use for this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My initial thoughts are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Material should hold up to the cleaning solution, I have a wide range of them from degreaser, deruster, and so on. I would say PETG or PLA should be a safe bet as it reacts with almost nothing&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Material should not have issues with warm (not hot) water, I'd say something along the lines of 60-80 °C. This already eliminates PLA, but I think PETG should still be OK-ish (I am aiming more towards 60 °C than 80 °C).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there something I am missing? Does anyone have any input? I am anyway just going to do a few tests, but I assume starting with PETG is a good start.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20301" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2022-09-02T16:59:18.843" LastActivityDate="2022-10-05T16:18:06.080" Title="Material to use inside ultrasonic cleaner" Tags="|print-material|filament-choice|chemistry|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19847" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19846" CreationDate="2022-08-31T22:24:07.607" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;ABS and PLA arn't very chemical resistant. PETG is better, but PET is probably your best option, however it is also a little harder to print in. PET also has a higher melting point than PLA, and shouldn't soften up too easily. PET is more durable as it tends to flex rather than crack, unlike ABS.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="34947" LastActivityDate="2022-08-31T22:24:07.607" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19850" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19823" CreationDate="2022-09-01T10:01:31.467" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found the issue. The fan, blowing on the heat sink is busy packing up. It must have stopped during a print (or not start at all). I now check that it is turning when the print starts (and check on it from time to time). I'll have to wait for stock to come in before I can replace it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="35152" LastActivityDate="2022-09-01T10:01:31.467" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19851" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19846" CreationDate="2022-09-01T16:49:47.247" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The materials you list suggests you could also print PETG.  PETG is probably you best option without having specialized options on your printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;PLA is the easiest to use, but loses its shape at lower temperatures than your other options.  Moisture also makes it more brittle and more likely to crack sooner under ultrasound.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;ABS is flexible (when thin) and survives temperatures as high as the boiling point of water.  But, it dissolves in acetone and isn't resistant to solvents.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;PETG is reasonably flexible (also when thin) to survive the ultrasound and more chemical resistant, but somewhat harder to print as mentioned.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Printing PETG&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PETG can have issues with the filament jamming.  If you print too fast, it jams because it doesn't have time to adequately melt in the nozzle.  If you print to slow, you get &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/15629/what-are-ways-to-avoid-heat-creep&quot;&gt;heat creep&lt;/a&gt;.  The solution I found was to use the maximum hot end temperature recommended, usually 250 °C,, and increasing the airflow through the heat sink and across the printer bed as much as possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One is tempted to leave the bed at room temperature to help prevent heat creep.  PETG will stick at room temperature. However PETG sticks too well.  Heating the bed to 80 °C will help the print release from the bed when it cools down.  PETG will also tend to damage the surface it's printing on.  Thus, a sacrificial layer such as a glue stick layer is useful to protect other layers on the bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also import to the quality of the print for PETG, the filament must remain dry.  Moisture in the filament will cause bubbles in the print.  For your application the bubbles would make the print more porous, exactly what you want to avoid.  The best results is to print from a dry container and minimize the time the filament is exposed to open air over 20% relative humidity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Keeping water out of the print&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may need to check if you can get enough exterior layers to keep the cleaning liquid from filling up the spaces in the fill.  People often use paint to seal the surface, but most paint is not resistant to solvents.  Thus, it would take socialized paint such as epoxy paint.  Paint will also tend to peal in an ultrasonic cleaner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15075" LastEditorUserId="15075" LastEditDate="2022-10-05T14:40:28.893" LastActivityDate="2022-10-05T14:40:28.893" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19852" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19784" CreationDate="2022-09-01T19:48:15.620" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;After checking several places online, I finally got an answer in a Discord chat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The solution was to turn off the &lt;strong&gt;Power-loss recovery&lt;/strong&gt; setting on the printer itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After that was done, the print came out beautifully.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23193" LastActivityDate="2022-09-01T19:48:15.620" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19853" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-09-01T22:02:51.283" Score="0" ViewCount="50" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was upgrading my (already very modified) Ender 3 with a geared extruder, and figured instead of re-flashing the firmware, why not switch the extruder phase on the cable?  I accidentally shorted the two coils together instead of swapping within one phase, and now none of the stepper motors work properly (this is with TMC2208s on an SKR 1.4).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The current behavior is that when I try to move any axis (including the extruder), the motor will align with the nearest step (I assume) and then not move any further.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to figure out if I trashed the mainboard, if I somehow managed to destroy all my stepper drivers with a single extrude command (which seems less likely), or if there is an easy fix I'm overlooking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="35235" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2022-09-01T23:27:16.593" LastActivityDate="2023-01-31T05:02:50.363" Title="Diagnosing non-functional steppers (Ender 3)" Tags="|creality-ender-3|stepper-driver|stepper|skr-v1.4|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19854" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11470" CreationDate="2022-09-02T01:08:44.333" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;For future readers,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On a second-hand 3D printer with unknown firmware, I compiled the Marlin 2.1.1 firmware for the Creality 4.2.7 board with the default configurations for the &lt;code&gt;BOARD_CREALITY_V427&lt;/code&gt; board, and at room temperature, the hotend reads about 121 °C.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I then measured the hotend thermistor by disconnecting the JST cable and got 9.1 kΩ with the room temperature of about 30 °C. This tells me the thermistor is a 10 kΩ NTC type.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The default configuration for Marlin is 100 kΩ NTC.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, if you have a 10 kΩ hotend thermistor, either &lt;a href=&quot;https://ericdraken.com/compile-marlin-firmware/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;recompile&lt;/a&gt; the Marlin firmware for a 10 kΩ NTC thermistor (more trouble than it is worth if you do not know the temperature curve data), or get a new thermistor specifically listed in &lt;code&gt;Configuration.h&lt;/code&gt;, for example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt; *  Analog Thermistors - 4.7 kΩ pullup - Normal&#xA; *  -------&#xA; *     1 : 100 kΩ  EPCOS - Best choice for EPCOS thermistors&#xA; *   331 : 100 kΩ  Same as #1, but 3.3V scaled for MEGA&#xA; *   332 : 100 kΩ  Same as #1, but 3.3V scaled for DUE&#xA; *     2 : 200 kΩ  ATC Semitec 204GT-2&#xA; *   202 : 200 kΩ  Copymaster 3D&#xA; *     3 : ??? Ω   Mendel-parts thermistor&#xA; *     4 : 10 kΩ   Generic Thermistor !! DO NOT use for a hotend - it gives bad resolution at high temp. !!&#xA; *     5 : 100 kΩ  ATC Semitec 104GT-2/104NT-4-R025H42G - Used in ParCan, J-Head, and E3D, SliceEngineering 300 °C&#xA; *   501 : 100 kΩ  Zonestar - Tronxy X3A&#xA; *   502 : 100 kΩ  Zonestar - used by hot bed in Zonestar Průša P802M&#xA; *   503 : 100 kΩ  Zonestar (Z8XM2) Heated Bed thermistor&#xA; *   504 : 100 kΩ  Zonestar P802QR2 (Part# QWG-104F-B3950) Hotend Thermistor&#xA; *   505 : 100 kΩ  Zonestar P802QR2 (Part# QWG-104F-3950) Bed Thermistor&#xA;...&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="35238" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2022-09-02T02:28:54.423" LastActivityDate="2022-09-02T02:28:54.423" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19855" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-09-02T08:05:43.507" Score="1" ViewCount="218" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am working with a bunch of Makerbot Replicator+ printers and one Z18 in a classroom. I would like my students to be able to print cups and stuff to drink from if they want. I know I need a food-safe material AND a food safe nozzle if it can be managed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, I wanted to check the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Is there a material data sheet for the PLA filament that Makerbots use? I am told you need to check for each color, so the general one doesn't seem to be what I need. If anyone knows where to find it, please let me know.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I am told stainless steel nozzles are best. I saw several sold on amazon and the like that will supposedly fit the Smart Extruders. Recs on which I should use (if any) are welcome. Especially as the nozzle width will differ, the stock nozzle I think is 0.4mm? I assume I will need to adjust the settings on the printer as well anyway if I swap out the stock nozzle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Another procedure my research yielded was that I would probably want to coat the 3D prints in resin. It seems there are several food-safe brands. Would such resins stand up to acidic liquids like orange juice and the like? What about alcohol? I know they won't work with coffee or something because PLA melts as such a low temperature. Recommendations are welcome here, and whether I should paint on or dip the 3D print?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3a. Even if the PLA isn't itself officially food safe would just coating it in resin solve that problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any assistance here is much appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31967" LastActivityDate="2022-09-02T12:42:01.603" Title="How to Print Food Safe With Replicator + and Z18? Three specific questions" Tags="|pla|food|replicator+|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19856" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-09-02T11:50:25.153" Score="3" ViewCount="53" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been having an issue for a while now with my 3D Print that one of the layers will appear thicker than the rest.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The line artifact will be on different height level. Also not all models that I would print would have this defect some will look pretty clean.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I print the same model again the line will appear on the same spot. I tried with different filaments on the same model same thing again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this maybe a slicer issue, anything that can help with finding the cause?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Printer CR-6 SE&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I have tried different retraction settings same result.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I have calibrated the extruder and have changed the extruder to dual drive.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I am using a Micro swiss hotend.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Using 2.0 Cura 5.0 Profile from CHEP &amp;amp; CHEP 0.28 Fast Profile.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Linear Advance has been calibrated.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FfSZD.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FfSZD.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eTfAt.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eTfAt.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ysQKU.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ysQKU.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is some images of models that came out with no line present.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WK47D.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WK47D.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lifdD.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lifdD.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="35242" LastEditorUserId="35242" LastEditDate="2022-09-02T14:28:09.090" LastActivityDate="2022-09-02T14:28:09.090" Title="Random Line on some 3D prints" Tags="|creality-cr-6|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19857" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19855" CreationDate="2022-09-02T12:09:03.237" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A better alternative would be PETG, it's food safe on it's own and has more heat tolerance than PLA. It prints with much the same ease as PLA.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not familiar with your particular printer, but nozzles are standard sizes. Swapping a brass nozzle for a stainless steel one doesn't need anything extra done. They both work the same, just the steel nozzle is harder wearing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31811" LastEditorUserId="31811" LastEditDate="2022-09-02T12:25:58.833" LastActivityDate="2022-09-02T12:25:58.833" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19858" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19855" CreationDate="2022-09-02T12:42:01.603" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;FDM itself is not particularly food-safe, coating the print may prevent bacteria to settle in crevices. Furthermore, the filament should be able to withstand high temperatures for extended periods of time in case you want to clean the printed cups to kill bacteria.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An overview of food-safe filaments is given by &lt;a href=&quot;https://all3dp.com/2/food-safe-3d-printer-filament-best-brands/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;All3DP&lt;/a&gt;. Without going into details, this overview recommends the use of certain TPU, nylon, high-temperature resistant co-polyester, PETG and ABS filaments. All these filaments are located at the higher-end temperature region of the filament pool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2022-09-02T12:42:01.603" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19859" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19591" CreationDate="2022-09-02T17:01:52.223" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't know your machine or resin but here are some likely fixes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;code&gt;wait_time_before_cure&lt;/code&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;When the build plate moves down and squeezes the resin against the FEP, the entire machine bends and the build plate only slowly approaches the intended height&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;Remedy&lt;/strong&gt;: add e.g. 5 s of wait_time_before_cure&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;level your build plate&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;The bottom_cure_time might compensate for a skewed build plate but the first regular layer may not&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;Remedy&lt;/strong&gt;: level your build plate&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;position of models&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Models fail when placed in the wrong position. Follow this order when placing models on the build plate. When you put a model in position 3 and none in 1 or 2, a failure is more likely.&#xA;By the way, model/models can cover most of the build plate as pealing forces are very rarely an issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LMIRb.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LMIRb.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not related to your issue but things to consider:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;code&gt;bottom_cure_time&lt;/code&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;It's not necessary to have 46 s &lt;code&gt;bottom_cure_time&lt;/code&gt;. 2-3 times the &lt;code&gt;regular_cure_time&lt;/code&gt; is fine, so in your case e.g. 7 s. It saves your light source from overheating and removing your models from the build plate becomes much easier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;code&gt;lift_height&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The distance that the plate moves after a layer is 5 cm&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;not sure what you mean. &lt;code&gt;lift_height&lt;/code&gt; is typically 5 mm max, which also saves you a lot of print time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="33932" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2022-09-03T16:17:42.453" LastActivityDate="2022-09-03T16:17:42.453" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19860" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19853" CreationDate="2022-09-03T04:05:04.300" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Turns out that resetting the board after reflashing the firmware fixed the issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Then I dropped a spring on the board and totally killed it an hour later).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="35235" LastActivityDate="2022-09-03T04:05:04.300" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19861" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-09-04T04:26:42.100" Score="0" ViewCount="909" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Creality Ender 5 (with CR Touch installed) and I just decided a few days ago to switch out my default V1.1.4 board with the new Silent Creality V4.2.7 motherboard (to make it silent and let me be able to install the CR Touch). When the package arrived, I immediately put it on my machine and flashed the firmware. Everything was going well until I realised that the extruder motor was going backward. I knew that it was the firmware’s problem based on other people's experiences which matched mine. I tried to do what they did which was switch the wires around. After that, the extruder stopped working.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried switching the wire of the extruder with the Z-axis on the mainboard. The extruder spins but the Z-axis stops working.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I concluded that it was the port's problem so I reached out to the manufacturer for a replacement. Even though they sent me the wrong version, the V4.2.2, The extruder port still didn't work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I noticed when I switched the Z-axis wire to the extruder port and make take the Z-axis wire and plug it into the extruder, the extruder makes a &amp;quot;Thud&amp;quot; sound.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know the solution to this? I have been struggling with this for 1 month now. Please help me solve this problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="35252" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2022-09-04T12:33:27.827" LastActivityDate="2023-11-04T12:56:03.280" Title="Ender 5 (not Pro or Plus) extruder motor port not working" Tags="|extruder|creality-ender-5|stepper|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19862" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19843" CreationDate="2022-09-04T15:13:41.220" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sorry finally getting back to answering the question. If this happens and your BLTouch is plugged into the Z-Probe you should make your Configuration file look like this...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;//#define Z_MIN_PROBE_USES_Z_MIN_ENDSTOP_PIN&#xA;...&#xA;#define USE_PROBE_FOR_Z_HOMING&#xA;...&#xA;#define Z_SAFE_HOMING&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This will tell Marlin to use the Probe instead of the endstop pins. Also in my case it was important to remember the EEProm does not seem to get reset when flashing the BTT SKR e3 mini v3. I think this is why when I tried flashing the other image it still didn't work. It would be my advice, if you are still having issues, to try resetting the EEProm as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="24911" LastActivityDate="2022-09-04T15:13:41.220" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19865" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-09-06T16:09:06.600" Score="0" ViewCount="69" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am thinking of getting a 3D printer for general tinkering and as I've very interested in the &lt;a href=&quot;https://medevel.com/microscope-using-raspberry-pi/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;MicroscoPy project&lt;/a&gt;. The printer mentioned in the project is &amp;quot;Creality Ender 3 Pro printer with a metal extruder and a BLTouch auto bed-leveling sensor&amp;quot;, which when I looked was out of stock. However, it's not clear to me that I need to get this particular printer. My understanding is that Creality makes decent printers for the beginner so I was focusing on those (other suggestions welcome). I wanted to stay at \$200−\$300. I'm having a heck of a time figuring out the differences between different models. A simple comparison spreadsheet seems hard to find. I've seen this at various sites&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Creality3d Upgraded Ender-3 V2&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Creality Ender-3 S1 3D&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Creality Ender-3 S1 Pro&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Creality Ender-3 Pro&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Part of the problem is that I think different sites (Amazon, Creality) use slightly different names. For example, the last two printers I listed might be the same printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I realize any information given here will be quickly out of date as new models are introduced, but perhaps links to comparison sites or review sites would serve a larger audience. Or perhaps even documents on how a newbie to 3D printing can get started.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Again, my end goal is the project I mentioned.  I'd like to get a printer that is as least as good as what he's using (feature-wise): &amp;quot;Creality Ender 3 Pro printer with a metal extruder and a BLTouch auto bed-leveling sensor&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="35277" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2022-09-06T19:27:17.517" LastActivityDate="2022-09-07T05:37:22.400" Title="Figuring out differences between Creality Printers" Tags="|creality-ender-3|creality|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19866" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19867" CreationDate="2022-09-06T21:30:15.640" Score="1" ViewCount="78" Body="&lt;p&gt;Photos exist where the orange controller of Prusa printers is shown.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In most photos, it looks as if the surface is somewhat rough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is such a photo:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JB0jH.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JB0jH.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It sparkles a bit, so I would assume that it's not perfectly even.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do not own such a controller or Prusa printer, so I would like to ask if somebody could show a close up of what this surface really looks like and perhaps give me some information about how it could be re-created.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you very much!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="35280" LastActivityDate="2022-09-06T21:44:14.043" Title="How is the Prusa typical orange surface created?" Tags="|prusa-i3|print-material|surface|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19867" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19866" CreationDate="2022-09-06T21:44:14.043" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;That texture you see is from the build surface, all prints you see are printed with the plane you see downwards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are several options to create such a surface finish. From texture coated heated beds to magnetic flexible build surfaces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2022-09-06T21:44:14.043" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19868" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19871" CreationDate="2022-09-06T22:36:18.933" Score="2" ViewCount="417" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an Anycubic Kobra Max. It has a bed size of L430*W410.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would like to print a rough surface as shown here:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SLXRY.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Photo of a coated PEI build plate with a printed model&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SLXRY.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Photo of a coated PEI build plate with a printed model&quot; title=&quot;Photo of a coated PEI build plate with a printed model&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To do that, I need a coated PEI build plate, and I need to print the surface pointing towards the build plate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;https://smile.amazon.de/BCZAMD-3D-Druckplattform-Doppelseitiges-Pulverbeschichtetes-3D-Druckerplattform-Gold/dp/B0B2RNRV5Q/ref=sr_1_38?crid=157VIYZ8GPGES&amp;amp;keywords=magnetisch%2Bdruckbett%2Btextur&amp;amp;qid=1662501414&amp;amp;sprefix=magnetisch%2Bdruckbett%2Btextur%2Caps%2C75&amp;amp;sr=8-38&amp;amp;th=1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;coated PEI build plate that is shown in the photo&lt;/a&gt; was designed for an Ender 5.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would like to know if somebody could point me to such a solution for a Kobra Max as I don't know what would be needed to &amp;quot;fix&amp;quot; it on the build plate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is the full data for the product shown in the image just for clarification of what it shows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ender 5 Plus 3D Printing Platform&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Double-Sided Powder Coated Without Magnetic Foot Base&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;3D Printing Build Surface 377x370 mm/14.8x14.5 inch&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Size: Only Double Powder Plate 377x370mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="35280" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2022-09-07T08:51:25.023" LastActivityDate="2022-09-07T08:52:11.967" Title="Rough surface coated PEI textured build surface to fit Anycubic Kobra Max?" Tags="|build-surface|anycubic-kobra-max|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19869" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19865" CreationDate="2022-09-07T05:37:22.400" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd like to get a printer that is as least as good as what he's using (feature-wise):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then you need to modify one yourself, a basic Ender 3 could be the base machine. But the all metal hotend and auto bed-levelling are not stock for it or the Ender 3 pro. They're addons of dubious value which need to be purchased and installed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31811" LastActivityDate="2022-09-07T05:37:22.400" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19870" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19872" CreationDate="2022-09-07T07:44:12.830" Score="2" ViewCount="113" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Anycubic Kobra Max comes with a glass plate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I need to use a textured PEI plate for my Kobra Max.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As I &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/19871&quot;&gt;understand it&lt;/a&gt;, the PEI plate needs to be used on a magnetic bed plate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Currently, there is no hotbed with a spring steel magnetic plate available for it yet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am still a complete newbie at plates.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could I use an other magnetic plate for this, or do they have to specific to a certain printer (apart from the size of course)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="35280" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2022-09-07T11:58:46.260" LastActivityDate="2022-09-07T12:00:04.680" Title="Are magnetic hotbed plates interchangable?" Tags="|heated-bed|build-surface|anycubic-kobra-max|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19871" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19868" CreationDate="2022-09-07T08:46:30.943" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Considering that the PEI coated build surface is smaller than your actual build platform size you should be able to fit the build surface onto the build platform at the expense of a smaller print surface area. In the past I have secured sheets of glass with &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kapton&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Kapton&lt;/a&gt; tape (very thin high temperature resistant electronics tape), but glass is stiff and rigid. You might be able to use tape to tape the build surface corners to the build platform. However, from the website: &lt;code&gt;supplied without magnetic platform side B, the plates are coated on both sides so you can save one side for flawless parts while you need the other side. The performance may not be good without the soft magnetic base to maintain flatness. Do not recommend using them separately.&lt;/code&gt;, so you need to get a magnetic platform to use this surface according to the seller.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This makes sense, as the sheet is thin, and some filaments warp (by shrinkage) considerably, the sheet may deform. You could try to use double sided high temperature tape, but that defies the the purpose of the build surface, you need to get it off easy and bend the surface to release the print. Therefore, a magnetic base is required.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2022-09-07T08:52:11.967" LastActivityDate="2022-09-07T08:52:11.967" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19872" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19870" CreationDate="2022-09-07T09:10:23.397" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Usually the build surface is not the magnetic part, it is just a flexible steel PEI coated plate, so yes you could use a magnetic build platform sourced somewhere else.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Currently, there is no hotbed with a spring steel magnetic plate available for it yet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Actually there are solutions, note that complete build plate and surface systems are sold for the size of your printer, e.g. look into manufacturer &lt;a href=&quot;https://buildtak.eu/collections/removal-solutions/products/complete-buildtak-flexplate-system&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;BuildTak&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2022-09-07T12:00:04.680" LastActivityDate="2022-09-07T12:00:04.680" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19873" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-09-07T13:02:55.953" Score="0" ViewCount="594" Body="&lt;p&gt;Polymaker Tough PETG Black, although not labelled as &amp;quot;Matte Black&amp;quot;, is not as glossy or shiny as PLA Black and I consider it Very Dark Grey/Matte/Satin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What brand of PETG Black is glossy or shiny and also has high quality (and preferably available on Amazon)? Does a brand specify its &amp;quot;blackness&amp;quot; - glossy/matte/satin?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I use XTC-3D resin on Polymaker Tough PETG Black to make it shiny and hide lines &amp;amp; imperfections, but will it still appear Very Dark Grey? What color can I add to XTC-3D to make it blacker?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="35023" LastActivityDate="2022-09-07T13:49:37.023" Title="What brand of Black PETG filament is *glossy*?" Tags="|post-processing|petg|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19874" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19873" CreationDate="2022-09-07T13:49:37.023" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This question as originally stated is pretty far off-topic: asking for product recommendations. We don't give answers of that form on this site.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, in general PETG is very glossy unless it's been specifically modified to be matte. If you're getting matte-like outcomes, it might be that your temperature is too low for the material and speed. PETG (at least as it's used as a marketing term) is not a single material but a whole class of materials with different thermal properties, so some brands need to be printed hotter than others. Many materials come out &amp;quot;matte&amp;quot; (and also have layer adhesion and brittleness properties) if the temperature you're using is only borderline for the speed you're printing them at. If you can't go higher temperature on your printer, you could try slowing down and see if that gets a surface more to your liking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, as for specific product recommendations, we can't do that, but I can recommend the Filament Librarian's &lt;a href=&quot;https://filamentcolors.xyz/library/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;FilamentColors site&lt;/a&gt; as a way to get real photos of a huge library of real materials, which might help you select one with the surface sheen you want.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2022-09-07T13:49:37.023" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19875" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-09-07T20:06:47.170" Score="3" ViewCount="427" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've read a couple articles recently about brass nozzles and found out they contain some lead. I've been 3d printing stuff for about a year and haven't really been mindful of this and so haven't washed my hands and stuff after every print or changing of the nozzle. I've never eaten or drank anything out of something I've printed to clarify.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is the amount of lead brass nozzles enough to warrant stricter hand washing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23354" LastEditorUserId="8353" LastEditDate="2022-09-13T15:39:34.057" LastActivityDate="2022-09-13T15:39:34.057" Title="Should I be worried about the lead in brass nozzles?" Tags="|nozzle|safety|material|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19877" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19875" CreationDate="2022-09-07T22:02:31.640" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;No.  Leaded brass is around 2 % lead and the wear is negligible. How much has your nozzle worn?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your nozzle has worn from 0.4 mm to 0.5 mm over that year, there's maybe&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$$&#xA;((.5 mm/2)^2-(0.4 mm/2)^2)*3.14*1 mm*(8.73 gm/cc)/(1000 mm^3/cc)*0.02 = 12 ug&#xA;$$&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;of lead that has worn off. The lead exposure from that year of wear is very low compared to the allowable &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$50ug/m^3 air/8hours$&lt;/span&gt; limit from &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.cdc.gov/niosh/topics/lead/limits.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;OSHA/NIOSH&lt;/a&gt;.  If the 12 ug had remained suspended as dust in your &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$1m^3$&lt;/span&gt; printer enclosure and you breathed it for 8 hours/day, OSHA would be fine with it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And most of the abraded nozzles would have been encapsulated in your parts rather than released into your environment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you were doing the machining on the nozzles, it might be more of a concern.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="35288" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2022-09-08T01:26:43.780" LastActivityDate="2022-09-08T01:26:43.780" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19878" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19611" CreationDate="2022-09-07T22:36:51.050" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just ignore the voltages for stepper motors. TMC drivers drive the motors by controlling current, and as long as the current you select is not so high to burn the motor out, you're all good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The voltage values listed have some physical meaning which I don't entirely understand, but in any case they are most definitely not the voltage the driver has at its disposal to move the motor and they're not anything you need to put in your configuration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2022-09-07T22:36:51.050" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19879" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-09-07T23:36:18.033" Score="1" ViewCount="231" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Creality Ender 3 Pro with only the touch sensor and filament guide as upgrades. I'm using the Creality Cura-based slicer. It prints absolutely beautifully for the price, but I'm having a small issue with the outside of the model in large prints when the inside of the model transitions from infill to a solid layer. I'm getting a protruding line around the outside for a few layers. As you can see in the photo, when the inner layer is all infill, it looks great, but when it gets to the broad flat layer, there's a little extra protrusion and the outside. It doesn't seem to happen in smaller prints. I've been searching and tried the suggestion of turning off combing and that didn't help. Has anyone else run into this issue? Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.&#xA;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/q45dL.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/q45dL.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="35289" LastActivityDate="2022-10-08T14:01:30.183" Title="Outer horizonal lines when inner model changes from infill to solid" Tags="|creality-ender-3|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19880" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19739" CreationDate="2022-09-08T06:43:42.637" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It seems &lt;strong&gt;Creality&lt;/strong&gt; provides a modified version of &lt;strong&gt;Cura 4.8.2&lt;/strong&gt; for the &lt;strong&gt;CR30&lt;/strong&gt;: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.creality.com/pages/download-cr-30-3d-printer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Creality Download&lt;/a&gt; ; &lt;strong&gt;BlackBelt&lt;/strong&gt; does the same, another modified version of Cura 3.6.2: &lt;a href=&quot;https://blackbelt-3d.com/download-area/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Blackbelt Download&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The current version of &lt;strong&gt;Cura&lt;/strong&gt; (5.x) does not limit the area in size, but it seems very difficult to use it like that for belt printers (eg printing the same object many times), so you have to use a dedicated slicer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some possible tricks: printing the same object many times could require a simple edit/processing of the gcode, plz ask for this because it's another question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="35103" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2022-09-08T06:58:32.187" LastActivityDate="2022-09-08T06:58:32.187" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19881" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19884" CreationDate="2022-09-08T09:44:14.710" Score="4" ViewCount="345" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to print a custom version of something akin to this rugged case that was originally created using injection molding:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oL8JW.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;ea weather proofed tablet with over-molded rubber&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oL8JW.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;ea weather proofed tablet with over-molded rubber&quot; title=&quot;ea weather proofed tablet with over-molded rubber&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The outside consists of a material that is a bit softer than the main body.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is used to protect the electronics against drops when the case falls onto the floor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately, I don't know which material this is, and I don't know which method I could use to measure its softness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would therefore like to ask if anybody has experience with such a softer outer hull and can tell me which material could be used when I want to 3D print it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would like to use this case in a hospital environment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="35280" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2022-09-08T14:32:10.023" LastActivityDate="2022-09-10T22:17:05.723" Title="Which material can be used to print a drop protector?" Tags="|print-material|filament-choice|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19882" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19881" CreationDate="2022-09-08T11:12:32.070" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I do it a couple of ways.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I use TPU which is pretty good for impacts and either make it thick or stiffen it with another filament as an inside or outside shell.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But TPU is what you want for this project because it's flexible in the way you need it to be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31811" LastActivityDate="2022-09-08T11:12:32.070" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19883" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19879" CreationDate="2022-09-08T13:25:46.340" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It looks like you have a little bit of over-extrusion. When the infill is less than 100%, the walls can easily fit around it, but when the layer is all filled, the few % extra extruded material has to go somewhere and that is what pushes your outer wall outwards.&#xA;Maybe you can try to set &amp;quot;Outer Before Inner Walls&amp;quot;. if that exists in the creality slicer or try cura itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4708" LastActivityDate="2022-09-08T13:25:46.340" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19884" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19881" CreationDate="2022-09-08T14:16:04.613" Score="4" Body="&lt;h2&gt;TPU or TPE&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You are looking for a Thermoplastic Urethane or Theroplastic Elasomere. Both are types of FDM printable synthetic rubbers, which can be used to create such flexible buffers. &lt;strong&gt;However&lt;/strong&gt; you need to properly design your casing with the correct thickness and hardness of the material in mind - you can not just take the dimensions and design from an over-molded material.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most flexible filaments need to be printed hollow to achieve good protection for the part. In some cases, you might want to use a foaming TPU/TPE that expands and creates cushioning voids, allowing to slow the part falling down to a slow enough speed to protect sensitive circuits.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2022-09-10T11:22:31.827" LastActivityDate="2022-09-10T11:22:31.827" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19885" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-09-08T21:05:08.010" Score="0" ViewCount="315" Body="&lt;p&gt;We have a brand new 3 month old Ender 3 Pro and we want to print ABS, but, unfortunately the printer trips and gives &lt;code&gt;error E1&lt;/code&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We limited the error to the bed: since when we heat up bed it gets stuck on 85 °C for while and suddenly through the &lt;code&gt;E1 Error&lt;/code&gt;. It seems the bed won't heat up over 85 °C.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28165" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2022-09-08T21:49:51.460" LastActivityDate="2022-09-08T21:49:51.460" Title="Ender 3 pro Bed won't heat over 85 °C and gives E1 error" Tags="|creality-ender-3|heated-bed|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19886" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19839" CreationDate="2022-09-09T09:06:59.973" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found out what was the problem here, like @0scar said I think it was the tension spring that was wrongly set, even if I had checked it before.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also the real name of the problem was &amp;quot;&lt;em&gt;underextrusion&lt;/em&gt;&amp;quot; and not &amp;quot;&lt;em&gt;transparency between the layers&lt;/em&gt;&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is the steps I followed to fix it:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I disassembled the extruder by removing the screw on the side like on the picture, there is also two behind the FAN.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aybihm.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aybihm.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After that I had access to every gear that was pulling the fillament.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I cleaned everything, there was some dust but not a big quantity so I don't think I was the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also removed the spring and the spring handle. I change the tension of the spring to be as low as possible. Then I reassembled every parts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After that I have redone the bed level and the spring tension.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Compared to the first time that I change the spring tension, this time the gear to change it felt easier, there was less resistance than last time. Even so I changed the tension to the lowest possible each time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After doing all that I printed the manufacturer print file, It was ok, there was no longer under extrusion. Then I tried multiple file of mine, which didn't print well before all that, this time it was perfect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;I think the real problem here was that some time ago I have disassembled the extruder and when I reassembled it I must have badly re-assembled it. Especially the spring part, since the feeling was different.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="35209" LastActivityDate="2022-09-09T09:06:59.973" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19887" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-09-09T13:16:54.413" Score="4" ViewCount="481" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can't seem to find any reliable answer to this question. My understanding was always that PETG should be solvent-resistant, including to acetone, but parts printed from the various &amp;quot;PETG&amp;quot; filaments I have range from utterly falling apart (layer delaminations, outright ripping under tension) to deformation and smoothing of corners when soaked in acetone. Parts printed in actual PET are unaffected, as expected.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this an expected consequence of the modification to PET that produces PETG, or is it a sign that lots of filament vendors are deceptive and shipping some weird garbage and calling it &amp;quot;PETG&amp;quot;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2024-03-25T19:07:51.103" Title="Is real PETG softened/degraded by acetone?" Tags="|filament|print-material|petg|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19888" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19202" CreationDate="2022-09-09T14:17:43.033" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Go a little warmer. Maybe 242.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, that 6 mm retraction number looks okay if you have a Bowden setup, but it's way too high if you don't (1.5 is a better starting number).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, there are those who disagree on this point, but I only change my extrusion from the default 100% when I notice issues on specific prints. Ultimately, the extra 6% extruded material has to go &lt;em&gt;somewhere&lt;/em&gt;, and it's likely contributing to the roughness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12562" LastActivityDate="2022-09-09T14:17:43.033" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19889" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16287" CreationDate="2022-09-09T15:03:06.067" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had a similiar issue. First 2 to 4 layers looked god, than a trouble zone with 5 to 10 layers, and after that good again.&#xA;In my case the z-layer screws were not tight. During moving up I lost some steps due to the lose screws ...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="35306" LastActivityDate="2022-09-09T15:03:06.067" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19890" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19891" CreationDate="2022-09-09T16:31:57.257" Score="3" ViewCount="836" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TaqNr.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TaqNr.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I print the gcode repeatly, under extrusion happens at the same place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The under extrusion not only occurs on first layer. I noticed the second layer also has some part under extruded, but not at the same place as first layer, because the infill line direction is rotated 90 degrees.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have tried the following but could not solve the problem:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Delta calibration (leveling)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;z=0 gap adjustment&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Filament flow calibration&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's a delta printer running Marlin 2.1. Slice with SuperSlicer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The top layer doesn't seem to have under extrusion. There is even a bit over extrusion at the corner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XF2Bf.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XF2Bf.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="162" LastEditorUserId="162" LastEditDate="2023-02-13T05:48:40.063" LastActivityDate="2023-02-13T05:48:40.063" Title="What could be the reason of under extrusion on some areas?" Tags="|print-quality|troubleshooting|delta|underextrusion|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19891" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19890" CreationDate="2022-09-09T22:11:05.977" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The most likely cause is that your bed just isn't flat. At least as I understand it, delta calibration is not mesh leveling, and is not there to correct for a non-flat bed, just for skew from the bed not being square with the towers or possibly other errors in the tower configuration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Without knowing more about your printer, it's hard to know if you could add mesh leveling, but it's really a tradeoff anyway. You may be better to just adjust your Z offset so that the low points are sufficiently extruded, leaving the high points slightly overextruded.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2022-09-09T22:11:05.977" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19892" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-09-10T08:42:02.967" Score="1" ViewCount="739" Body="&lt;p&gt;I usually see Ender 3's set at 93 for the E-steps which is still too low, and require adjusting to around 99 steps/mm, but a brand new Ender 3 (base model), running 1.1.6.2 firmware, was extruding at approximately 20% when doing a calibration test.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It wasn't until I set the E-steps to 460 steps/mm that it extruded correctly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The test file is the same file I use for all Ender 3's so I know there were no slicing errors to blame (flow, etc).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I swapped extruder motors with a working printer to rule out the motor and ensured there was no nozzle clog. It was not the wrong motor (I know the Z motor is set to 400 for example, but this was not a Z motor, it was the proper E motor) and the 20 % extrusion was consistent with the swapped motor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Clearly, it came from the factory like this. But this is the highest adjustment I have ever heard of.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has anyone experienced this before?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14623" LastEditorUserId="14623" LastEditDate="2022-09-17T12:48:56.820" LastActivityDate="2024-02-09T17:08:41.060" Title="New Ender 3 E-steps off by 367?" Tags="|creality-ender-3|marlin|extruder|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19894" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-09-10T13:41:01.537" Score="2" ViewCount="1149" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've recently purchased Creality Ender 3 V2. When I print PLA, I face no issue at all but while printing PETG, the nozzle keeps clogging after the second or third layer. I even tried printing PETG by keeping the fan off for all the layers but with no success. The recommended nozzle temperature is 220 °C - 250 °C and the heated bed temperature is 60 °C - 80 °C by the filament manufacturer. For better adhesion, I'm using a thin layer of glue stick for the bed. Due to the unavailability of a Capricorn tube in my city, I've not upgraded the stock PTFE tube yet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My current print settings in Prusaslicer are as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Filament: Generic PETG (modified)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Temperature:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Nozzle: first layer 235 °C, other layers 230 °C.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bed: First layer 65 °C, other layers 60 °C.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fan:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Disable fan for the first: 3 layers.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fan speed: min 20 %, max 50 %&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bridge fan speed: 100 %&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Retraction:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Length: 3 mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Retraction Speed: 30 mm/s.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DllI0.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Photo of the printer's extruder with filament backed up&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DllI0.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Photo of the printer's extruder with filament backed up&quot; title=&quot;Photo of the printer's extruder with filament backed up&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="35315" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2022-09-10T14:14:44.107" LastActivityDate="2022-09-10T22:14:15.497" Title="The nozzle keeps clogging, midway through the print while printing with PETG filament" Tags="|creality-ender-3|print-quality|extruder|nozzle|petg|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19895" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19910" CreationDate="2022-09-10T14:45:15.957" Score="4" ViewCount="2702" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is difficult to describe with words what's happening, so take a look at the picture. Somehow PrusaSlicer decides to move and print in the air (blue line), where instead it can continue going from outwards to inward. I understand it wants to print first the outer layer but in this case it is obvious it will not hold that layer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The final position is shown in the second image.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iB1fc.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iB1fc.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;prusa slicer&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The final step of that layer:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PCetc.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PCetc.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any idea how to configure PrusaSlicer to avoid this situation?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="35317" LastEditorUserId="35317" LastEditDate="2022-09-12T13:12:05.237" LastActivityDate="2022-09-14T08:40:34.360" Title="How to configure PrusaSlicer to prevent printing in the air" Tags="|prusaslicer|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19896" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19900" CreationDate="2022-09-10T15:02:32.360" Score="0" ViewCount="2198" Body="&lt;p&gt;I got my first 3D printer, a Creality Ender 3 S1.&#xA;I followed the Quick Installation Guide for the initial configuration. I also had to adjust the corners of the bed manually (the very first print ended up as spaghetti).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now I wanted to try the first print, so I decided to print the &amp;quot;rabbit&amp;quot; that was included as a G-code with the SD card for the printer. I used the filament that was included with the printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem is that after half of the rabbit body is printed, the nozzle moves the rabbit, and the rest of the print ends like a spaghetti mess and I have to cancel it. This has happened three times now and I don't understand how to fix the problem or what causes it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why does the print of the &amp;quot;rabbit&amp;quot; fail mid-way up?&#xA;Are there any settings I should adjust? How should I figure out what settings I need?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I used the G-code that was already stored on the SD card, with default settings after adjusting my bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25983" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2022-09-10T22:01:25.447" LastActivityDate="2022-09-10T22:01:25.447" Title="Ender 3 S1 fails printing mid ways" Tags="|creality-ender-3|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19898" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19904" CreationDate="2022-09-10T19:29:50.233" Score="1" ViewCount="222" Body="&lt;p&gt;I searched about the subject in this website and could only find &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/15457/are-there-fdm-epoxy-resin-printers&quot;&gt;this question here&lt;/a&gt; asking &amp;quot;if there is an FDM Resin 3D printer&amp;quot;, not how to build it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The idea is to replace the inks for other fluids, such as resin and its hardener (and other fluids) and then add a Z axis &amp;quot;somehow&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The thing is: I couldn't find any tutorial on the subject.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The closest thing I could find was &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/lIVdwP0RAN8&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this project here called Oasis 3DP, an open source powder and inkjet 3D printer&lt;/a&gt;, but the objects are incredibly fragile.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other type was &lt;a href=&quot;https://hackaday.io/project/167446/gallery#2ba64e8a516cbe36d7f8b66cbd2d9b61&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this DIY that converts a creality 3D into a ink printer&lt;/a&gt;, but it uses homemade nozzles actuated by piezoelectrics instead of a inkjet printer nozzle, and the results aren't as good as a conventional inkjet printers (not to insult the creator this is hella cool still).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="35182" LastActivityDate="2022-09-11T02:47:28.483" Title="How to convert a conventional Inkjet printer into a FDM resin 3D printer?" Tags="|diy-3d-printer|resin|fdm|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19899" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19895" CreationDate="2022-09-10T19:38:35.107" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;You'll want to turn on supports, which will create a series of low density pillars in the &amp;quot;floating&amp;quot; area and provide a foundation for the layer that is printing mid-air in your second image.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another option is to create a hollow support cylinder perhaps a half millimeter larger diameter than the hole in the floating layer. This creates the support for the inner diameter and allows the printer to create bridges.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The former method will use more filament and take longer to print but provide a better under-surface than the latter method.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastEditorUserId="854" LastEditDate="2022-09-11T14:56:32.120" LastActivityDate="2022-09-11T14:56:32.120" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19900" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19896" CreationDate="2022-09-10T21:54:32.630" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have now got a print of the &amp;quot;rabbit&amp;quot; working.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did a few things.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Make sure no parts of the printer are loose. I had to fasten the extruder on the X-axis a bit better. (I think this is an important point)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I tried a different filament, &lt;a href=&quot;https://addnorth.com/product/E-PLA/E-PLA%20-%201.75mm%20-%20750g%20-%20Aurora%20Green&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;AddNorth E-PLA&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These alone did not solve the problem.&#xA;Then I did these adjustments:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The AddNorth E-PLA filament had a recommended nozzle temperature of 205-225 °C. The default nozzle temperature of Ender 3 S1 seem to be 200 °C. The prints worked better when I set the nozzle temperature to 220 °C (in the beginning of the printing session).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I tried to use the &lt;a href=&quot;https://ultimaker.com/software/ultimaker-cura&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Ultimaker Cura&lt;/a&gt; slicing software, instead of the pre-generated G-code file on the SD card. I used the STL file of the rabbit that was on the SD card as input.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After these adjustments, I finally successfully printed the rabbit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25983" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2022-09-10T21:59:53.683" LastActivityDate="2022-09-10T21:59:53.683" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19902" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19881" CreationDate="2022-09-10T22:17:05.723" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Case designers usually use TPU for flexibility and polycarbonate for stiffness&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="35320" LastActivityDate="2022-09-10T22:17:05.723" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19904" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19898" CreationDate="2022-09-11T02:47:28.483" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sounds like you are asking for a kit.  There isn't one, and there isn't likely to ever be one, because conventional resin printing and FDM printing use completely different approaches to take advantage of respective material properties, and combining them is likely to get you the worst features of both rather than something better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally, ink jet printing and things based on it inherently get you brittle parts, and attempts to combine this with FDM methods won't fix that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Without a kit, you are designing this from scratch.  This basically means you either need to be an engineer that can design solutions for all the problems up front, or you will be doing a lot of trial and error with repeated redesigns as you discover new problems -- not that an engineer wouldn't have the same issue without a lot of foresight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28397" LastActivityDate="2022-09-11T02:47:28.483" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19905" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-09-11T14:28:31.783" Score="2" ViewCount="113" Body="&lt;p&gt;Usually I had problems with the adhesion of the first layers, and most questions here and out there are about this issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Instead now I'm facing another problem. After &amp;quot;some&amp;quot; (few or even after 10h) suddenly the filament does not stick anymore to the previous layers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here an example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4cVT3.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4cVT3.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you can see it completed the rafting very good (not sure if there also some few layer of the object) but then the new layer did not adhere and I had to stop the printing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some useful information:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;machine: Dremel 3D45&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;filament type: Geeetech ABS&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;slicer: Cura&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;bed temperature: 100 °C&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;nozzle temperature: 240 °C&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;layer thickness: 0.2 mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;cooling: OFF&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;printing speed: 30-60 mm/s (lower value is for top/bottom/walls)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;rafting: 0.36 mm base + 1 middle layer + 2 top layer + 0.3 mm air gap&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;supports: ON&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What can be the reason for such a failure?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;UPDATE&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had better results (not perfect, though) increasing the temperature to 245 °C and reducing the air gap between raft and object to 0.1 mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21979" LastEditorUserId="21979" LastEditDate="2022-09-12T16:42:01.563" LastActivityDate="2022-09-12T16:42:01.563" Title="ABS does not stick AFTER some good layers" Tags="|heated-bed|adhesion|abs|rafts|dremel-3d45|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19906" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9870" CreationDate="2022-09-11T17:29:50.567" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;For people from google:&#xA;Go to configuration_adv.h in the marlin firmware source code, and search for &amp;quot;THERMAL_PROTECTION_HYSTERESIS&amp;quot;. Then increase the number. The number is how much degress celsius the temperature can be off before thermal runaway&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="35327" LastActivityDate="2022-09-11T17:29:50.567" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19907" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21357" CreationDate="2022-09-11T21:53:43.643" Score="4" ViewCount="2446" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an Ender 3V2 running a custom version of Jyers Marlin, and using a CR Touch as a Z-stop, and with a heated glass print bed. This is my first printer, and it mostly prints fine except when printing near the edges where some imperfections with bed leveling mess with bed adhesion and have definitely ruined a couple of my prints. The main issue is that the first layer is very uneven, where in some places filament it basically smeared onto the bed whereas in other places the filament is barely touching the bed. What's stranger still is that generally speaking, the infill seems to be more consistent in terms of z-height on the first layer, whereas the walls have much more variation. I've included some photos to illustrate the issue:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Kv2SF.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Kv2SF.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;This is the entire leveling test I printed (it only tests the edges because the center is fine). This was run without UBL - I verified this as the Z axis motor didn't move during the print (it's only 1 layer).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CYaXI.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CYaXI.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;This is what has been causing me the most issues. In the top right corner of the print, the wall filament basically disappears for about 1-2 inches because the nozzle is too close to the bed. This is pretty close to the top right leveling screw as well. You can also see that only the walls are affected, as the infill is pretty even across the same area.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kgbvx.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kgbvx.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;Kind of the opposite issue in the bottom right compared to the top right, where the walls are printed too high off of the bed and start to string from poor adhesion. Once again, the infill seems to be ok (except in the corner).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Things I've tried:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Leveling with a feeler gauge. Incidentally, I always had issues with the top left and right leveling screws, where the top left screw would always be too high up and would be hard to adjust because the screw would be too tight, and vice versa on the top right where the bed would always be too low and the knob would almost fall off by the time the top right was leveled high enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Tightening/loosening belts. Doesn't help much, but I'm also not sure how tight the belts should be anyways.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Enabling ABL/UBL with G29/M420 S1. It just... doesn't seem to work, the leveling print will come out the exact same each time no matter if ABL is activated or not. I guess this probably means it's not an ABL issue, or that if it's an issue with motors etc. it affects the sensor while it's leveling. That's the only explanation I can think of.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Readjusting the frame so that everything is as close to square as possible. There is no wobble so I'm 99% sure that it's right, but I don't have access to one of those square rulers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The Z screw does not move/wobble when the motor moves, I re-tightened the coupler for the screw and the motor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I have not adjusted the X axis bar that holds the carriage and moves up and down, because the nozzle seems to be a little higher the further away from the side with the Z screw it is. From other help requests I've read online, it seems that usually issues with the X axis will result in the nozzle moving closer to the bed as it gets further away from the Z screw, which is not the case here. But would it be worth it to adjust it anyways?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given that this is my first 3D printer it's really kind of put a damper on the experience for me as even though 75% of the things I print are small enough to avoid the problem area, I want to be able to use all of the print bed without issue. Any help, troubleshooting, or advice would be greatly appreciated!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit 1: Took off the X/Z carriages and found two abnormalities - not sure if these are causing the issue. The nozzle carriage has a bit of space between the bottom of the X-axis profile and the roller. It doesn't really wiggle during printing, but it could if I touched it; right now, the two rollers on top sit nicely on the profile. Also, these rollers all have a slightly discoloured ring where a little bit of material has been shaved off of the roller. The Z-axis rollers on the side opposite the lead screw are the opposite case, where the rollers have to be forced onto the structure since it's so tight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="35329" LastEditorUserId="36802" LastEditDate="2023-11-23T13:22:39.210" LastActivityDate="2023-11-23T13:22:39.210" Title="Inconsistent Z-height on Ender 3 V2 print bed" Tags="|creality-ender-3|bed-leveling|jyers|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19908" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-09-11T23:53:30.810" Score="1" ViewCount="186" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Mooz-2 3D printer from dobot (an obscure chinese brand) that I got from kickstarter. I've done numerous upgrades over the years, including a full-metal hotend, dual z-axis and a custom power supply. However, keeping the printer operational feels a bit like a game of technological whack-a-mole. Almost as soon as I'm done fixing one part of the printer that doesn't work, a new problem appears.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Currently, after I fixed a problem with a shorted limit switch, &lt;strong&gt;the y-axis of the printer no longer functions properly. It appears almost as if the limit switch is shorted&lt;/strong&gt;; it only moves down when plugged into the y-axis port, but works fine in any other axis's port. The other axes exhibit the same problem when plugged into the y-axis port. I've tried re-installing the firmware to no avail.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I contacted the company and they offered to sell me a new mainboard for $220 shipping, which is ridiculous b/c the printer only cost \$300 originally, and the rest of the mainboard works fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know that it's very difficult to troubleshoot online, so this is what I ask: &lt;strong&gt;Could the stepper motor driver be causing this issue?&lt;/strong&gt; It's the only part of the mainboard I can figure out how to replace. Can it cause issues like this? If I can't fix this I'll have to replace the entire printer, as the mainboard and firmware are proprietary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Comments and suggestions are welcome! I'm a bit desperate here, so I'd appreciate anything that might help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9084" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2022-09-12T05:55:14.940" LastActivityDate="2022-09-12T05:55:14.940" Title="Is my stepper motor driver to blame?" Tags="|troubleshooting|stepper-driver|replacement-parts|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19909" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19895" CreationDate="2022-09-12T07:58:20.447" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is one way assuming the picture is complete, and that is to print the object upside down from it's current orientation. This would negate the need for any supports or worrying about printing in thin air.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If thats not possible then as Freds answer says, you need supports. If you're printing a run of the same objects you can make a support and insert it into the object at the correct layer and then re-use it for subsequent copies rather than print supports each time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31811" LastActivityDate="2022-09-12T07:58:20.447" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19910" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19895" CreationDate="2022-09-12T13:03:40.387" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The inability to do this is not fundamental, but it's currently a limitation in slicing software, and not likely to change soon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can see from &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c9b7Ey4LyCs&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this demo&lt;/a&gt; that the kind of printing you want is possible. However, it's currently only being done with software to assist in hand-crafting gcode to make the printer do what you want it to do. The hard part is making the slicer automatically figure out that that's what it's supposed to do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For your needs, just printing from outer loop inward here is not going to suffice. There needs to be overlap, computation to compensate for the fact that extrusion lines will not squeeze out to their nominal width because there's nothing below them to extrude against, and using the overlap in the XY direction to achieve that instead. This is all new stuff slicers have just not been programmed to do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So for now, you need supports. If you're willing to use Cura, Conical Supports or Tree Supports will let you support this with less waste material and make removal easier. Alternatively you could design your own support into the model and put it just under the hole in the middle, letting the flat part bridge. Or you could make a &lt;em&gt;sacrificial bridge layer&lt;/em&gt; so that the first layer is solid bridge all the way across, and cut/drill it out after the print is done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2022-09-12T13:03:40.387" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19911" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-09-12T14:15:24.107" Score="3" ViewCount="154" Body="&lt;p&gt;My Prusa i3 does not appear to have any sound device incorporated.  I've read &amp;quot;&lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11056/writing-g-code-audible-alert-at-end-of-print&quot;&gt;Writing G-Code: Audible Alert at end of print&lt;/a&gt;&amp;quot; and it seems everything needed to implement audible alerts is built into the G-code syntax and firmware but my rig appears to be lacking the necessary noise maker.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="33030" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2022-09-12T15:37:24.380" LastActivityDate="2022-12-24T10:28:08.740" Title="How can a speaker or active buzzer be connected to the Arduino 2560/RAMPS 1.4 boards to provide alerts in response to M300 commands in the g-code" Tags="|prusa-i3|g-code|ramps-1.4|arduino-mega-2650|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19912" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-09-12T21:34:23.693" Score="0" ViewCount="99" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know a way to calculate the Z-height and support's volume of an object at a specific orientation (specific x, y, z angles)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am looking for an Equation/s or a Python code/s, not a slicer software. Thank you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="35340" LastEditorUserId="35340" LastEditDate="2022-09-12T21:35:53.227" LastActivityDate="2022-09-13T04:45:48.573" Title="Calculate Z-height at a given orientation" Tags="|z-axis|support-structures|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19913" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19926" CreationDate="2022-09-13T05:20:51.723" Score="0" ViewCount="85" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm struggling to find out an enclosed 3D printer that allow to load the common 1 kg filament bobbins. Most of the enclosed ones accept only proprietary bobbins (like Dremel or Flashforge).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do these bobbins ( = 1 kg) rely on a specific standard I can search for?&#xA;How to filter out the printers that match my request when making a Google search?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm aware I can &amp;quot;easily&amp;quot; put them out of the machine using a custom support (or even directly in a dryer as I do for my Dremel) but this partially nullifies the advantage of the enclosure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21979" LastActivityDate="2022-09-16T10:48:12.647" Title="How to find enclosed 3D printer that can host 1 kg filament bobbins?" Tags="|filament|desktop-printer|enclosure|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19914" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19916" CreationDate="2022-09-13T07:30:28.763" Score="1" ViewCount="59" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know that a single mixing nozzle with dual filament input can blend them in order to make gradients. I also know that IDEX means you have two independent nozzles and you can make objects with different materials (or colors).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I don't understand if an IDEX printer can still &amp;quot;mix&amp;quot; (on the layer of course) the two filaments to create a gradient. My common sense says it's not possible, but I didn't find a proof of that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm NOT interested in a mixing nozzle as most of the time I will need two different kind of filaments. The gradient with IDEX is just a &amp;quot;nice-to-have&amp;quot; feature. Not mandatory, but I would know before choose my next printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21979" LastActivityDate="2022-09-13T08:09:36.067" Title="Are IDEX printers able to make gradients?" Tags="|filament|desktop-printer|dual-nozzle|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19915" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19913" CreationDate="2022-09-13T08:03:35.407" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;QIDI Tech makes a series of enclosed printers, which would narrow your search a bit. I own an X-Max model which has an internal spool spindle as standard equipment, along with an &amp;quot;ordinary&amp;quot; external mount. The internal spindle will take a standard one kilogram spool. It's considered good practice when printing moisture sensitive filament such as nylon to have such an environment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With respect to search terms, it's fairly difficult to identify a phrase that would collect the information you require.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastActivityDate="2022-09-13T08:03:35.407" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19916" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19914" CreationDate="2022-09-13T08:09:36.067" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Consider the task from the creation reference. An IDEX printer requires the slicer to direct each nozzle to a specific location of the model while it is being created. No true gradient could be accomplished as it would require both nozzles to be in nearly-instant-extrusion proximity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suppose one could create a matrix of colors in a manner similar to that of RGB LED color displays, but that's a severe stretch of the imagination. It would require perhaps a strong understanding of &lt;a href=&quot;http://fullcontrolgcode.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;full g-code control&lt;/a&gt; to place the individual lines. Additionally, there would be a limitation to two colors and the combinations thereof, although with the bi-color Quantum style filament, results might be interesting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastActivityDate="2022-09-13T08:09:36.067" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19917" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19929" CreationDate="2022-09-13T16:08:16.637" Score="1" ViewCount="2024" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am having some trouble with model adherence to my print bed. As shown in the attached photo, my model is pulled away at the sides leaving it bowed even though it is designed to be flat. Other than this &amp;quot;bowing&amp;quot;, the model is of good quality.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The model is printed solid on an Anycubic Photon M3 Plus with Anycubic 3D Printing UV Sensitive Resin. My print settings are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bottom layer count: 6&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bottom layer exposure: 22 secs (also tried 30 secs and 40 secs with the same results)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Normal layer height: 0.05 mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Normal layer exposure: 2.5 secs&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Off time: 0.5 secs&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Z lift height: 6 mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Z lift speed : 360 mm/sec&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Z lift retract: 6 mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bed is aligned. Could anyone suggest what is wrong and what I could try to remove this &amp;quot;bowing&amp;quot; effect?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VmF9H.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Resin printed model with a bowing effect&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VmF9H.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Resin printed model with a bowing effect&quot; title=&quot;Resin printed model with a bowing effect&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="35348" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2022-09-13T17:30:28.817" LastActivityDate="2023-01-02T15:57:06.867" Title="How to keep model flat in resin printing?" Tags="|print-quality|adhesion|resin|build-plate|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19918" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19895" CreationDate="2022-09-13T16:53:29.890" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It isn't universally applicable but I have had success avoiding undesirable sagging in some situations by printing a part in two pieces, one inverted, and gluing the two &amp;quot;bed&amp;quot; surfaces together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The software I use (Repetier 2.2.4) includes a setting &amp;quot;Cut Off Object Bottom&amp;quot; and accepts a dimension. For some objects it's possible to choose a cutoff point that will produce two pieces without overhangs that can be joined. The image shows a simple example.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using the cut off option makes it possible to do this without making changes to the model.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/racj0.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/racj0.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Example&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="33030" LastActivityDate="2022-09-13T16:53:29.890" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19919" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-09-13T18:10:04.303" Score="0" ViewCount="50" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm in need of printing some replacement parts for cubicles, and the image included with this post contains most of the parts we are need of replicating.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I read this &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/u9XyB.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;helpful infographic on different 3D software packages and their use cases for 3D printing&lt;/a&gt; but am not sure which category these parts falls under. Would it be better to use Fusion360/OpenSCAD or Blender? We don't have the original measurements; we have the original parts and would be working off of pictures of the parts themselves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eO2ra.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eO2ra.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;replacement cubicle parts&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="35349" LastActivityDate="2022-09-14T07:18:56.090" Title="Which software would be best to model these types of parts (needed for cubicle repair)?" Tags="|3d-models|3d-design|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ClosedDate="2022-09-16T15:21:26.827" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19920" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-09-13T22:09:57.693" Score="1" ViewCount="1321" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have just bought the Anycubic Photon Mono X and I am having some trouble. I was wondering if anyone else ever had this issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The resin seems to be hardening on the bottom of the vat after I cleaned it and tried to do a print. This sometimes happens as well if I leave the resin in the vat overnight. I usually keep the temperature in the room around 70 F, I am not sure if that matters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are my settings:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Layer Height: 0.03 mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bottom Layer Count: 6&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Exposure Time: 4 s&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Light-off Delay: 0.5 s&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bottom Light-off Delay: 0.5 s&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bottom Lift Distance: 8 mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lifting Distance: 8 mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bottom Lift Speed: 180 mm/min&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lifting Speed: 180 mm/min&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Retract Speed: 240 mm/min&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5ufD8.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Photo of resin in a vat that has turned to sludge&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5ufD8.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Photo of resin in a vat that has turned to sludge&quot; title=&quot;Photo of resin in a vat that has turned to sludge&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don’t store the printer open. It’s not exposed to any UV from light or windows. I'm not sure about the resin settling on the ground as I shake it before every use&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="35352" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2023-01-19T19:08:19.923" LastActivityDate="2023-06-20T04:24:45.627" Title="Resin forming thin layer on bottom of vat (sludgelike)" Tags="|resin|anycubic-photon|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19921" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19919" CreationDate="2022-09-14T05:30:02.987" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should use whichever software you're competent with. They will all do it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Doing it from scratch without knowing the software is going to be a big learning curve. If thats the case you're probably best to use something like FreeCad as it's strength is in parts modelling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Much more to it than just modelling the parts though, you need to be asking if these gadgets are actually suitable for 3d printing. Otherwise you can draw them, print them and then watch them fail.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31811" LastEditorUserId="31811" LastEditDate="2022-09-14T07:18:56.090" LastActivityDate="2022-09-14T07:18:56.090" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19922" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19895" CreationDate="2022-09-14T08:40:34.360" Score="0" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How to configure PrusaSlicer to prevent printing in the air&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You need either support or change the print orientation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You cannot print into the air, you can however print lines on top of a prior layer with a certain overlap, or bridge a certain gap. E.g. (screw) holes are often covered with 2 layers over the screw hole so that you use bridging to print (the cutout shows that the hole has a bottom):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nPEbf.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nPEbf.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iVQ5a.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iVQ5a.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After printing you need to punch through the layers to open the hole.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Starting and stopping extruding in thin air will result in deposition of the extruded material on the location the nozzle crosses a prior layer (often seen when support structure pillars have fallen over).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is used frequently together with support in Ultimaker Cura is the option called &lt;code&gt;Enable support roof&lt;/code&gt;, this will create a dense top layer on top of the support interface which allows for pretty good bottom surface of the overhang.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This e.g. results in the following slice:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QolNr.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QolNr.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When applied to a recently printed flanged tube you see that the bottom surface is pretty good (note the concentric lined top surface, first image shows the product with support, second image, on the left a view of the bottom above support layer and right the support with roof layer):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cZVtw.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cZVtw.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3LmGO.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;on the left a view of the bottom above support layer and right the support with roof layer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3LmGO.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; title=&quot;on the left a view of the bottom above support layer and right the support with roof layer&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How to configure PrusaSlicer to prevent printing in the air&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In PrusaSlicer you should be able to something pretty similar with &lt;code&gt;Interface pattern spacing&lt;/code&gt; set to zero:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jbHQr.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jbHQr.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2022-09-14T08:40:34.360" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19923" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-09-14T15:47:51.963" Score="1" ViewCount="82" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a brand new Ender 3 v2 that I have not assembled yet. I've seen a lot of people saying the stock couplers break very soon so I already bought new couplers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now every video online says I have to warm up the hotend before changing. Some say it's because of the filament being melted in. Some say it's because of expansions and contractions. I'm not really sure what the reason is and I want to know if I need to warm up my printer before changing the couplers or not. Given that it has never been used before.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="35357" LastActivityDate="2022-09-14T16:07:48.440" Title="Do I have to warm up the hotend for replacing pneumatic couplers on brand new Ender 3?" Tags="|creality-ender-3|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19924" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19923" CreationDate="2022-09-14T16:07:48.440" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've never warmed the hot end the three times I've changed the hot end coupler -- and of course, there's no warming to do for the corresponding part at the extruder end of the Bowden tube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, however, I didn't change a coupler until I had several tens of hours on my Ender 3, and if the coupler is installed with a methacrylate thread locker (&amp;quot;Loctite&amp;quot;) heat is a great help in getting the first move on the locked threads.  I don't know any reason heating the hot end would cause problems, as long as you keep your delicate fingers away from the actual nozzle and heat block (and to a lesser extent, the heat break fins).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the machine has filament or Bowden tub jammed in the coupler, you might find it easier to free them with the nozzle hot -- otherwise, the filament may be bonded to the cold nozzle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28508" LastActivityDate="2022-09-14T16:07:48.440" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19925" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19917" CreationDate="2022-09-15T08:40:24.467" Score="2" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Print orientation&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your model is pulled up from the FEP film with a huge force. It releases from the film first at the corners, then progresses to the center. The force bends the model down as it is still flexible, so it creates a bent item.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This can be mitigated by reducing the area that you pull at. Commonly, you'll turn the item so the area is minimized, and you also might want to angle the item. This will cost some material in support structure, but you reduce the force on the part that can deform it in printing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastActivityDate="2022-09-15T08:40:24.467" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19926" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19913" CreationDate="2022-09-15T11:57:16.753" Score="2" Body="&lt;h1&gt;There are standards for spools/bobbins/reels&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looking for standards for spools, I started at Alibaba and then came to an actual European manufacturer or retailer of reels: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.hafner-spools.com/en/products/spools/spools-for-3d-printer/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Häfner&lt;/a&gt;. They manufacture reels for wires, which are also used for 3D printers. They helpfully provide a chart of their products from about 250 cm³ to a whooping 98454 cm³ - which is about 250 grams of ABS to in theory 98 kilos. However, typically the largest spool you will find for privates is the  300/20 K type with about 3800 cm³, which is more than enough to get a 4-kilo reel of PLA onto it. At times you might find something in the order of 8000 to 10000 cm³ for a rather heavy 8-kilo spool, though that is industrial sizing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As this single offerer shows, spools are &lt;strong&gt;very&lt;/strong&gt; varied, and the hub diameter of them is not standardized, but the boreholes only come in very distinct sizes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, &lt;strong&gt;some&lt;/strong&gt; of the items that are sold as 3D filament spools are actually welding wire spools, for which standards exist, such as &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.nationalstandard.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/10/NS-Welding-Wire-Catalog-2018-05-05.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; dictating &amp;quot;2‐1/32 inch&amp;quot; arbor holes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Scale of spools is dependant on the market&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Typical enclosed consumer FDM machines are small.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But spools below 1 kilo are not useful for mass-production of large parts and even then, 3 kilos is a sweetspot for handling between ease of moving and time spent changing spools. So industrial machines usually take larger spools - or propriatory cannisters/cartridges with a spool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of the big ones is the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.stratasys.com/en/3d-printers/printer-catalog/fdm-printers/f900-printer/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Stratasys F900&lt;/a&gt;. It has a print-volume of 914 x 610 x 914 mm and takes &amp;quot;up to 500 cubic inch&amp;quot; cartridges, apparently the largest size of FDM Filament cartridge offered by Stratasys. For the record: 500 cubic inch weigh about 8 kilos in ABS, and about 10 kilos in PLA.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Modification of existing printers&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is almost trivial to modify an existing printer that takes non-proprietary spools to allow taking in filament from the outside without keeping the door closed. A piece of PTFE tube can easily take the position of the spool inside the machine to guide the filament into the machine-mounted intake. The modification might only need a single small hole in the door for the tube or its fitting to get into the machine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This way you mount pretty much an adapter for larger spools, but you bypass for example automatic filament detection with the spool unless you also open the door and slot in a &amp;quot;disk&amp;quot; of sorts that contains the RFID with the configuration of the mounted spool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A random example setup, mounting the &amp;quot;outer intake&amp;quot; in an angled block at the center of the former door:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/L43i3.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/L43i3.png&quot; alt=&quot;an example setup&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2022-09-16T10:48:12.647" LastActivityDate="2022-09-16T10:48:12.647" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19927" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-09-16T06:54:36.350" Score="-1" ViewCount="692" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have just bought my son a used Flashforge Adventurer 3 and the man who sold it to me said he had a bit of trouble with the filament starting to come out before it touches the print bed but if you just grab the filament with a pair of tweezers right before it hits the bed it prints fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone have a way to fix the problem I'm a 3D printing virgin and it is being delivered today so I don't want it to be a problem for my boy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="35372" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2022-09-16T10:04:18.567" LastActivityDate="2024-02-08T17:03:30.417" Title="Flashforge Adventurer 3, filament problem" Tags="|filament|flashforge-adventurer-3|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19928" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19927" CreationDate="2022-09-16T11:55:24.200" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most printers ooze material when heating up (no extruder rotation). Usually this is related to the left over amount of filament left in the nozzle/heat break. Tweezers are effective to remove the oozed material. This can also be deliberate, then it is called priming (extruder rotates).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can retract filament after printing your product (in your end G-code script), this will reduce the amount of material it oozes during warm-up of the next print. If it is part of the priming, you could improve your start G-code to optimize priming (different location and height). Furthermore, you can also &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6355/writing-g-code-swiping-at-start-of-print&quot;&gt;swipe&lt;/a&gt; at the beginning (adapting start G-code in your slicer).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2022-09-16T13:40:40.103" LastActivityDate="2022-09-16T13:40:40.103" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19929" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19917" CreationDate="2022-09-16T18:47:43.107" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It looks like the top of your model (The lowest part in the picture) is wider than the bottom (The part in contact with the build plate).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This means that there is a substantial lip with nothing under it to support it, or to attach it to the build plate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I remember my rules of force correctly (and I may not) this means that the force excerpted on the part of the object furthest from the build plate is the square of the force on the part nearest to it that's touching the build plate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By 3D printing standards this is quite a big number. You either need to angle the model to reduce this force (Draw a triangle from the corner to the big touching the base plate, and angle it so that the triangle is as shallow as possible, or to add additional material in to make that angle as shallow as possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would suggest that you don't place your model flat on the build plate, instead angle it at maybe 30 and use heavy supports.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="29097" LastActivityDate="2022-09-16T18:47:43.107" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19930" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-09-16T19:02:23.950" Score="2" ViewCount="106" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a moderately sized model that includes 4 thin towers off approximately 6 inches each in height as its final element, each tower is less than 1/4 inch in diameter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These towers consistently fail to print. They begin printing normally but after about 4-5 inches the filament begins to deform in the extruder (Stock ender 5, no modifications), and to slip. It appears have been chewed up by the constant movement back and forward during retraction (which is particularly intense on these towers).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've tired reducing the speed and the extrusion level, but it hasn't resolved my problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other than stringing, what would the potential consequences be of setting the retraction to 0?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I ultimately printed my model in several pieces to avoid retraction between the towers, but I'm looking for future reference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="29097" LastActivityDate="2022-09-16T19:53:16.363" Title="What are the potential continuances to a print of setting the retraction to 0 in a slicer?" Tags="|creality-ender-5|retraction|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19931" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19930" CreationDate="2022-09-16T19:53:16.363" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other than stringing, what would the potential consequences be of setting the retraction to 0?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You're right to ask this, because there's inherently a dual problem. Whatever material ends up outside the model as strings wasn't conjured out of thin air; it's material that was &lt;strong&gt;supposed to be somewhere else and didn't make it there&lt;/strong&gt; because it oozed out too early. As such, you will have corresponding underextrusion right after the stringing, and thus poor bonding, reduced part strength, possibly holes in the model that make it not watertight, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your printer firmware has Linear Advance (I'm not sure if it's enabled in the stock Creality firmware nowadays), tuning it will reduced the extent of the oozing when you omit retraction, and will also let you get string-free printing with a much shorter retraction length, which might be enough to solve the clogging.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The root cause of your problem is not the number of retractions itself, or the filament gear in the extruder. Well-tuned printers do prints with tens of thousands of retractions with no problem. Most likely it's a consequence of the Creality extruder having very poor grip on the filament, such that, once there's any resistance to pushing the filament, the gear slips on the filament. After that starts, it grinds, and it's game-over; it's very difficult to get it moving properly again, much like when your car gets stuck with its tire spinning in mud.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this is the problem in your case, increasing the spring tension on the idler arm may help avoid it. Also, you can try to address the cause of increased resistance to pushing the filament. Normally what happens is that, after the material is retracted, it starts to solidify in a somewhat deformed shape that doesn't push as well through the hotend again. Reducing the retraction length helps, but slowing down the retraction can actually make it worse by giving it more time to cool. Increasing travel speed and travel acceleration (increase them &lt;strong&gt;a lot&lt;/strong&gt;! like to at least 3000-4000 mm/s² acceleration and at least 300 mm/s speed) will greatly reduce the time the filament is held in the retracted state, leaving it ready to flow again as soon as you unretract.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2022-09-16T19:53:16.363" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19932" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-09-16T20:26:06.117" Score="0" ViewCount="232" Body="&lt;p&gt;It has been suggested that I should increase the spring tension on the idler arm, on a Stock Ender 5 Pro, due to a problem with the extruder mangling filament during rapid retractions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do I do this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="29097" LastActivityDate="2023-02-16T14:04:55.697" Title="How do I increase the spring tension on the idler arm on a Stock Ender 5 Pro" Tags="|extruder|creality-ender-5|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19933" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19934" CreationDate="2022-09-16T20:45:56.450" Score="1" ViewCount="368" Body="&lt;p&gt;So far, I have only printed with SLS printers.&#xA;The results were great, but it was such a horrible mess, and precautions took so much time (gas mask, chemistry gloves, etc.) that I am now switching to FDM.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would like to ask how I could print the following model:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bJcpv.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bJcpv.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you look at this from the side, you notice that there is a gap, and I wonder how I could print this. I am not even sure how I could do this with supports.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you can see, Cura also marks this region red.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you for your any input how I could deal with this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I would like to keep this beautiful angle / gap. Having a totally flat would be my last option.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have uploaded my model &lt;a href=&quot;https://drive.google.com/file/d/1c8AOqSGqpRCU_VBTrkbiL2IE1MAs7SUA/view?usp=sharing&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;, if you somebody needs it to estimate how to deal with it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NT5Jg.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NT5Jg.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a screenshot of the support that Cura suggests. But I didn't understand it as I couldn't recognize anything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/a3xh5.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/a3xh5.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="35280" LastEditorUserId="35280" LastEditDate="2022-09-16T22:14:17.963" LastActivityDate="2022-09-16T22:14:17.963" Title="How would I print a non-flat surface using FDM?" Tags="|fdm|support-structures|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19934" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19933" CreationDate="2022-09-16T21:36:37.630" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &amp;quot;typical&amp;quot; angle for overhangs that can be printed without support is considered to be 45°, although some printer/plastic combinations can exceed that value. Your angle appears well beyond 45° and is closer to 90° which requires support.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have printed models with similar overhangs and the support material creates an unsightly underside. This can be mitigated with a dual material printer, using water soluble filament for the support. I've recently seen videos and images of dual material prints in which the second material (support) was PETG. In both cases, a decent underside can be expected.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally one could use a method promoted by Angus of Maker's Muse in one of his &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RPijCjz9G1w&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;videos&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have used this method with quite good results. It effectively converts an overhang to a bridging situation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In your use case, consider that your model is a rounded rectangle. Create another ordinary rectangular prism slightly larger than the main object, perhaps two to four millimeters larger. Remove a shape from the inside matching the main object, but create it in such a manner as to have an overlap of one to two nozzle widths.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately, I see that you have a double overhang, as the initial rim is horizontal and the secondary is angled. This would mean you'd want to create a single nozzle width rounded rectangle at the point of the slope change.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The angled portion is going to require support or a substantially increased amount of added-in &amp;quot;crutches&amp;quot; of similar design.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For something like this, I'd recommend a plane cut at the point where the angled surface meets the vertical surface. Create two objects, perhaps add alignment pins and then glue it together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you print it in ABS, you can then acetone smooth the result and make the glue joint disappear, especially if it is glued together with acetone/ABS slurry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5z0xf.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5z0xf.png&quot; alt=&quot;sliced frame&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hmBb2.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hmBb2.png&quot; alt=&quot;sliced frame 2&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Images created from OP's model, screen captured via Meshmixer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The resulting internal faces are perfectly flat, although possibly too thin for alignment pegs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastActivityDate="2022-09-16T21:36:37.630" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19936" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19938" CreationDate="2022-09-17T00:03:12.903" Score="2" ViewCount="209" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am just using Cura for the first time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is what my model looks like in Fusion 360:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/p1tMc.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/p1tMc.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a close-up look:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rDZ7B.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rDZ7B.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And this is what Cura creates for me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I assume the turquoise area is a support structure.&#xA;Why does it do that?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, I don't understand why it marks the edges as red. I assume this means that there is problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you!&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NvaN5.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NvaN5.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pTv1f.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pTv1f.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="35280" LastActivityDate="2022-09-17T07:16:51.447" Title="Why does Cura create this turquoise support structure?" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19937" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-09-17T03:13:26.047" Score="2" ViewCount="644" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ender 3 Pro, everything is stock except that I swapped the magnetic sheet for a glass bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As the tin says, I'll get this error around a half hour into a print:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;THERMAL RUNAWAY: E1&#xA;PRINTER HALTED&#xA;Please Reset&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I recorded it in the act, and here's some info I've collected:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Extruder temp isn't consistent. It's set to 200 °C (Cura default), but will often wander around in the 197 °C-202 °C range.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are random severe spikes where it will instantly go from 200 °C to 190 °C, then climb up to 205 °C.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;About 5 minutes before error, it instantly dropped from 200 °C to 170 °C, then 180 °C, then 190 °C, then chilbed back up to 200 °C.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The error popped in when the extruder was at 190 °C.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See, it seems to jump around in an odd pattern, not just smoothly transitioning to a lower temperature. This leads me to suspect it's a sensor issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;However&lt;/em&gt;, around the time these jumps were occurring, the plastic wouldn't adhere to the plate correctly. Some parts wouldn't stick:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EV75D.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Photo of the first few layers of a printed model with edges curling up&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EV75D.png&quot; alt=&quot;Photo of the first few layers of a printed model with edges curling up&quot; title=&quot;Photo of the first few layers of a printed model with edges curling up&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Compare the bottom (printed first) to the top (printed last). A lot of edges are popping up (although the bottom isn't perfect either).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This wasn't an issue until I moved my printer to the basement (from my bedroom) for a 30-hour print. I had it running for ~14 hours straight before my first encounter with this error. The temperate difference between my room and the basement is minimal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also leveled the bed before re-trying, which didn't solve the issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am new to this, I got the printer 3 weeks ago. Extensive googling has resulted in many different solutions, but none specific to my printer's temperature situation. I post this hoping to find clarification for myself and provide a concise description of the problem so others down the line can find the solution easier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="35321" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2022-09-17T03:56:23.917" LastActivityDate="2023-07-21T06:40:26.593" Title="Thermal Runaway E1 Error, Extruder text jumps randomly" Tags="|creality-ender-3|extruder|temperature|thermal-runaway|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19938" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19936" CreationDate="2022-09-17T05:01:08.067" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Each color has a special meaning:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;turquoise: Support (in your case &lt;strong&gt;Build Plate Adhesion&lt;/strong&gt;)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Red: Shell&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Green: Inner Wall&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Yellow: Top / Bottom&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And so on ; you can see them if you click on &lt;strong&gt;&amp;quot;Color Scheme: Line Type&amp;quot;&lt;/strong&gt; on the &lt;strong&gt;Preview Interface&lt;/strong&gt;, and select what you want to see.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;strong&gt;turquoise&lt;/strong&gt; is your support for bed adhesion (see the &lt;strong&gt;Build Plate adhesion&lt;/strong&gt; tree on your &lt;strong&gt;Print Settings&lt;/strong&gt; interface), the &lt;strong&gt;red&lt;/strong&gt; one is your &lt;strong&gt;shell&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Nothing is wrong, please read the doc, it could be useful sometimes ...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="35103" LastEditorUserId="35103" LastEditDate="2022-09-17T07:16:51.447" LastActivityDate="2022-09-17T07:16:51.447" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19939" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19892" CreationDate="2022-09-17T14:42:34.757" Score="0" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;a brand new Ender 3 (base model), running 1.1.6.2 firmware, was extruding at approximately 20% when doing a calibration test.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This doesn't mean the esteps are wrong. There is no physically possible way the actually-needed esteps value can be off by more than a few percent from the nominal value of 93, which is linked to the motor step size and extruder gear diameter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're only getting 20% of the desired extrusion, your extruder is broken (likely the tension arm is physically broken or the spring is missing or incorrectly installed or of the wrong length) or you have some sort of blockage in the hotend causing the extruder to slip.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2022-09-17T14:42:34.757" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19940" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-09-17T17:04:36.393" Score="1" ViewCount="1205" Body="&lt;p&gt;After leveling the corners of the bed and doing a manual mesh bed leveling (both options on the menu LCD) I adjust the babystep Z while printing to get a perfect first layer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ideally, I would take note of the optimal babystep Z value and store it as Z offset, but there´s no Z offset option in the LCD menu. The only similar setting I can find is (only while printing) &lt;strong&gt;Tune&lt;/strong&gt; &amp;gt; &lt;strong&gt;Bed Z&lt;/strong&gt; but this setting doesn´t affect anything. If I adjust babystep Z I can clearly see changes in Z height but not with Bed Z.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone have any idea how to store the babystep Z value? (I´ve already tried adjusting the babystep Z and then selecting the &lt;strong&gt;Store Settings&lt;/strong&gt; option but that doesn´t work) Or maybe how to store my Z offset value through Pronterface?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PS: I recently started 3D printing, I know how to send commands through the Pronterface terminal, but haven´t learned how to modify firmware yet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="35389" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2022-09-17T18:26:39.930" LastActivityDate="2023-11-16T10:05:30.647" Title="Setting Z offset on Artillery Hornet (Marlin 2.0.7.2)" Tags="|marlin|z-axis|print-axis-offset|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19941" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-09-18T04:32:54.937" Score="2" ViewCount="6230" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an Ender 3 V2 Neo. I have installed the Creality dual Z-axis upgrade kit (with a second Z stepper motor) and third-party anti-backlash nuts. Only afterwards did I discover that users were reporting Z-axis sync problems developing between power cycles (which I have confirmed firsthand).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One solution I came across is to install a kit which uses just the original Z stepper motor with an additional Z screw and a sync belt connecting both Z screws.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another solution I came across was using the &lt;code&gt;G34&lt;/code&gt; command to auto-align Z steppers. Then I discovered that to use &lt;code&gt;G34&lt;/code&gt;, I would need to upgrade to a third-party motherboard with dual Z stepper drivers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both options are about the same cost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have experience with either or both options, I would appreciate your feedback on the pros and cons of each option.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="35393" LastEditorUserId="35393" LastEditDate="2022-09-18T14:56:04.360" LastActivityDate="2022-09-18T17:19:14.483" Title="Dual Z Options: Pros and Cons" Tags="|creality-ender-3|z-axis|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19942" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19941" CreationDate="2022-09-18T17:19:14.483" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have not used ether of the mentioned solutions. However I currently use this &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/kevinakasam/BeltDrivenEnder3&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt; BeltDrivenEnder3&#xA;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and it the best upgrade I've done for my Ender3 v1 pro. Easy enough to print and assemble and My Ender now has the print quality of a true pro printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25699" LastActivityDate="2022-09-18T17:19:14.483" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19943" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-09-18T18:04:40.350" Score="4" ViewCount="2015" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to print the following model on my Kobra Max using ABS.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have uploaded it &lt;a href=&quot;https://drive.google.com/file/d/1XMasuTVzg3MCHDd3Txi7sb-pUqEzPtE0/view?usp=sharing&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/H0zNf.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Screenshot of the Cura preview for a 3D model&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/H0zNf.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Screenshot of the Cura preview for a 3D model&quot; title=&quot;Screenshot of the Cura preview for a 3D model&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have tried it 3 times now, it always results in this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SoZMu.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Photo of the printed model on the build plate with corners curled up&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SoZMu.png&quot; alt=&quot;Photo of the printed model on the build plate with corners curled up&quot; title=&quot;Photo of the printed model on the build plate with corners curled up&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you can see, one part managed to break free from the support and warped upwards.&#xA;At this point, I had to stop the print process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The element which broke free really has a strong will to bend.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What could I do in this case?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These are my print settings; bed temperature is 80 °C, and nozzle temperature is 195 °C.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7EaSA.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Screenshot of the Travel and Build Plate Adhesion settings in Cura&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7EaSA.png&quot; alt=&quot;Screenshot of the Travel and Build Plate Adhesion settings in Cura&quot; title=&quot;Screenshot of the Travel and Build Plate Adhesion settings in Cura&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="35280" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2022-09-19T17:10:51.747" LastActivityDate="2022-09-20T13:58:25.263" Title="What is this called and how do I avoid it? (model frees itself from support structure and warps upwards)" Tags="|abs|warping|anycubic-kobra-max|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19944" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19943" CreationDate="2022-09-18T18:34:39.613" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You are getting warping. It's unusual in this case, as your overall model is relatively low profile. It's the taller stuff that likes to warp.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Consider to edit your post to include the layer heights and also the filament type and filament and bed temperatures. My first instinct is that your bed temperature is too low. There's little harm to be had by raising the temperature by ten degrees or so. Also if your slicer arbitrarily reduces the bed temperature after the first layers, disable that feature. There's no sense to set a good adhesion temperature on a print and later reduce it, yet I've seen slicer results that do just that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Too cold filament by a substantial amount can also reduce the adhesion in combination with a too low bed temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you still run into adhesion problems, the Elmer's Purple Glue Stick works wonders.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With the new information comes new responses:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For ABS, 80 °C is on the low end for the bed, but may work. The extruder temp is really low for ABS. I run 250 °C for ABS. Also ensure some form of enclosure, even a cardboard box will help. I've accidentally fed ABS into a PLA profile. The results were surprisingly good, although warping was prevalent and some underextrusion was evident.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have a glass bed, you will very much want to use glue stick, as a release agent, not as an adhesive. ABS sticks really well to clean glass, well enough that it will pull fragments of glass from the surface!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastEditorUserId="854" LastEditDate="2022-09-20T13:58:25.263" LastActivityDate="2022-09-20T13:58:25.263" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19945" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-09-18T19:10:50.043" Score="1" ViewCount="527" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Anycubic Chiron is the third 3D printer I’ve owned, so I’m fairly familiar with the inner workings of them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem occurs when I home the Z-axis. Once the Z-axis sensor gets triggered, the Z-axis motors should stop. However, Instead of stopping, the Z-axis motors go 2-3  mm further after the Z-axis sensor is already triggered. Therefore, the nozzle of the printer is lower than the bed itself. I've had this printer for 2 years, but the problem started last week.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the video, you can see that the little red light shuts off when the sensor is triggered. You can also hear the motors spin slightly faster after they’re supposed to stop. If you have any ideas to fix this, any help would be greatly appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's the &lt;a href=&quot;https://streamable.com/l705ja&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;video link&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="32739" LastEditorUserId="32739" LastEditDate="2022-09-19T16:15:07.040" LastActivityDate="2022-09-19T16:15:07.040" Title="Anycubic Chiron homing issue" Tags="|bed-leveling|homing|anycubic-chiron|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19946" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19943" CreationDate="2022-09-19T01:07:37.450" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is definitely warping caused by subpar adhesion to the bed, you can try glue or making the bed hotter as &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/19944/&quot;&gt;this answer&lt;/a&gt; suggests.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another way of really making sure is to take off the square corner. They seem to be really prone to warping. When I have a persistent issue that is beating the glue stick and bed heat I will add a bit to the design itself to have a rounded edge at the corner. Basically just a flat circle that goes a bit further out where the sharp corner is and just for the first few layers (frequently called mouse ears). Then during post processing I cut it off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31811" LastEditorUserId="31811" LastEditDate="2022-09-19T14:53:17.680" LastActivityDate="2022-09-19T14:53:17.680" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19947" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19943" CreationDate="2022-09-19T04:31:57.723" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;ABS is a challenging material to print because it warps. It warps because it shrinks as it cools. The top layers are cooler than the bottom layers on a heated bed, so they become slightly smaller, and flat things turn happy face shape.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The real way to print big flat parts in ABS is with an insulated enclosure, that keeps the temperature up and the top layers don’t shrink enough to peel the model off the build plate. Recommended bed temperature is 100 °C, which many printers struggle with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have only been able to get ABS to stick to the bed with “ABS juice”, a mixture of acetone and scrap ABS filament. Wear gloves and mop some onto the bed with a paper towel or brush. Check that your print surface is compatible with acetone, otherwise you’ll have to use something milder, like gluestick.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As well as using ABS juice/glue on the print surface, use a brim. It is an extra, sacrificial layer of plastic around the model on the first layer that can help big flat parts stay stuck down. It is relatively easy to peel off by hand or shave off with a utility knife.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A brim of 10 mm is a good starting point. Nuclear option: if a print or material is really problematic you can pause the print after 3 layers or so and tape the brim down to the bed with wide blue painter’s tape.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it is cold in your shop, a heat lamp or 100 Watt incandescent bulb near the print can keep the temperature up, if you don’t want to build an enclosure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27077" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2022-09-19T06:59:05.990" LastActivityDate="2022-09-19T06:59:05.990" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19948" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19943" CreationDate="2022-09-19T09:00:54.223" Score="7" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is this called&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is called &lt;strong&gt;warping&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Warping of prints occurs frequently when you use a filament that shrinks. If the model would shrink uniformly, it will become smaller, like in a scaled version (unfortunately, the print is attached somewhere, which causes stresses in the first layers). But, if (due to the geometry of the print) some part of the model shrinks more, the model warps. It could then bend upwards from the build plate, deform at higher layers or sometimes even crack (e.g. in between layers).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and how do I avoid it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A high(er) build plate temperature&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Not use a filament that is prone to shrink, e.g. ABS is frequently replaced by PETG/NGEN/some other Co-polymer nowadays&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Decent adhesion by using everything you can image to get the filament to stick to the build platform:&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A rough build plate surface, like e.g. BuildTak or equivalent&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;An adhesive like glue stick or specific sprays like Dimafix or equivalent&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A slurry of ABS and acetone&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use an enclosure to raise the temperature of the build volume&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If an enclosure is impossible, use a draft shied (basically a multi layer skirt which creates a sort of a mini enclosure)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use a raft&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Don't use part fan cooling&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2022-09-19T18:21:49.403" LastActivityDate="2022-09-19T18:21:49.403" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19949" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15554" CreationDate="2022-09-19T10:29:50.660" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Measuring a gap with paper is just a rule of thumb. Personally I didn't measure anything, I've just made sure my bed is level and adjusted z-offset bit by bit until I was satisfied with the results. I couldn't tell you how wide the gap is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other note you might not have to reconfigure your Marlin. You might be able to configure your z-offset by adjusting it directly in your printer config menu or alternatively if you are using Cura you can download a plug-in that allows you to adjust z-offset. You just have to remember to reslice your model if you print on multiple surfaces with different thickness&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="32028" LastActivityDate="2022-09-19T10:29:50.660" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19950" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19940" CreationDate="2022-09-19T10:35:48.360" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You might want to try and adjust it in Marlin itself but it will be a long, frustrating process of trial and error. Alternatively,  if you are using Cura you can download a plug-in that allows you to adjust z-offset. You just have to remember to reslice your model if you print on multiple surfaces with different thickness&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="32028" LastActivityDate="2022-09-19T10:35:48.360" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19951" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19932" CreationDate="2022-09-19T10:54:06.947" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I only have ender 3 pro but if extruder works the same way you could just unscrew the bolt holding the spring in place and put some washers or a printed bush to squeeze the spring further. If you have one of those extruders with plastic arms then I've heard from some people that they could partially crack after some time, thus releasing some tension. If that's the case you might want to invest in an aluminum one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="32028" LastActivityDate="2022-09-19T10:54:06.947" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19952" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6576" CreationDate="2022-09-19T21:33:48.803" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Start with your nozzle width for a prototype. I made some 50-80 mm jars with screw-on lids using a 0.4 mm nozzle. I could get the threads to start using 0.15 \$slop parameter (BOSL2 scad library trapezoidal thread at pitch 5 or 6) but couldn't get past 1/4 turn. With 0.4 $slop it turned loosely with just a little bit of play and tightened up nicely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are obviously a bunch of parameters that will affect the actual clearance, but nozzle width seems like an excellent rule of thumb for a draft.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="35407" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2022-10-29T15:18:56.273" LastActivityDate="2022-10-29T15:18:56.273" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19954" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16196" CreationDate="2022-09-21T14:53:22.117" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Repetier software has a Pause button and works very well. I use it to change filament color in mid-print. When pause is invoked manual moves and homing of all three axes are available.&#xA;In my case, after pausing I quickly home X and Y so the nozzle is not over the in-progress print in case of oozing during the filament change.  I also move +10 mm on the Z axis to provide a little working space. When resuming, the print head moves to exactly where it was interrupted and goes on as before.&#xA;I can't see any reason a pause and home scheme wouldn't be an option after a minor layer shift.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="33030" LastActivityDate="2022-09-21T14:53:22.117" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19955" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-09-22T03:52:18.273" Score="2" ViewCount="384" Body="&lt;p&gt;My XYZ da Vinci 3D printer doesn't want to load my spool but I still have a lot of filament on it. I took the chip out in both spool and the printer itself and made sure I loaded them in correctly, but it still says that the spool is empty and I don't know what to do at this point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="35435" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2022-09-22T04:47:46.080" LastActivityDate="2023-09-12T11:49:35.923" Title="XYZ da Vinci 3D printer doesn't want to load filament" Tags="|xyz-da-vinci-mini-w|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19956" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19955" CreationDate="2022-09-22T09:03:09.587" Score="2" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Proprietary systems have proprietary problems&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The XYZ daVinci series is locked down in a way that without both an RFID and the sensor, it does not and can not recognize a spool at all, and thus does not print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Resetting a spool's chip, according to the manufacturer, risks frying the motherboard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, DaVinci offers a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.xyzprinting.com/eshop/en-US/product/OpenSmartTag&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;special spool holder&lt;/a&gt; to solve the issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2022-09-22T09:18:57.900" LastActivityDate="2022-09-22T09:18:57.900" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19957" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-09-22T10:02:04.363" Score="2" ViewCount="273" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;My Setup&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ender 3&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;BTT SKR Mini E3 v1.2 with BLTouch&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Marlin v2.1.x&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Problem&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Captured it here (short video): &lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/bNVq-Gxykkc?start=0&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When Bed Leveling, the print head doesn't return left on the X-Axis although in the LCD display it does mark that the X value is modified.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a sudden behavior. I've tried to upgrade my firmware from Marlin 2.0 to Marlin 2.1 and the problem still persists.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Auto Home is working properly and I'm able to move the printhead in all directions through the graphical interface after homing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Disclaimer&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm very new to 3D printing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="35442" LastEditorUserId="35442" LastEditDate="2022-09-22T11:42:18.970" LastActivityDate="2022-09-22T11:42:18.970" Title="BLTouch on Bed Leveling check don't move left after point 6" Tags="|creality-ender-3|bed-leveling|bltouch|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19958" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20135" CreationDate="2022-09-22T12:42:01.263" Score="2" ViewCount="392" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm new in the 3D priting and I bought a BIQU B1 printer :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I printed the Pokemon with the white filament that come as a sample with the printer (PLA) and after that I bought the Inland PLA+ and PETG+ from Microcenter.&#xA;The first thing that my son asked me to print is the toaster.&#xA;Well, I tried to print three times with the PETG+ filament and always I end up after one or two layers with oozie everywhere and I had to stop printing.&#xA;I replaced the filament with the PLA+ and now it's printing correctly (It's 91% complete right now :-) )&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, I set the correct temperator for both filaments:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;PLA+ 205/60&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;PETG+ 230/70&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm thinking that for this type of object (torture toaster) it doesn't work with PETG because of the complexity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is that correct? If not, what I could be doing wrong with PETG+ filament?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="35429" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2022-10-22T15:17:20.333" LastActivityDate="2023-07-24T01:03:15.430" Title="Torture toaster with PETG" Tags="|petg|biqu-b1|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19959" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-09-22T12:56:02.250" Score="-1" ViewCount="608" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been printing for a few years now, and recently purchased an Ender 3 S1. I have a strange issue, that I couldn't resolve yet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If there is a geometric change between layers, then the unchanged parts misalign also. I attach a picture, but try to explain too: A flat vertical wall is looking perfect, but if there is a window in it, the rest of the wall is displaced in the same layers at the bottom and top of the window, then resumes normally. The error is in connection with the object's geometry, not the parameters of the printer. (It is not at a specific Z height) In a calibration cube, this happens at the bottom and top of the Y and X letter indents.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, I checked the belt tensions, rods are straight, nothing loose, nothing too tight, and the temperatures are steady. I tried 20 mm/s and 50 mm/s, the same result. Not a layer shift, everything else is spot on position. I'm thinking of a slicing issue maybe? Or over/under extrusion? Really out of ideas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/i92qv.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Photo of 3D printed model showing layer misalingment&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/i92qv.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Photo of 3D printed model showing layer misalingment&quot; title=&quot;Photo of 3D printed model showing layer misalingment&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="35445" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2022-09-22T13:03:50.323" LastActivityDate="2024-02-14T23:03:45.510" Title="Ender 3 S1 - Is this positioning or extrusion error? Or something else?" Tags="|creality-ender-3|layer-shifting|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19960" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19958" CreationDate="2022-09-22T13:08:37.427" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;From what I can tell, the BIQU B1 is an Ender 3 clone with a similar extruder, which probably has really poor grip on the filament. This is bad with PETG, which tends to slip, and once it starts slipping, it will grind and make the problem worse. On top of this, it probably has a PTFE-lined hotend precluding printing PETG at the higher temperatures it would do better at, so the extruder is probably fighting excess resistance to pushing filament through the hotend. In short, I never had good experiences trying to print PETG on my Ender 3 when it was stock, and I'm not surprised if you have similar problems on a similar printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With that said, there are some things you can do to improve the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Dry the filament. Unless it's been actively dried in the past 24 hours and kept away from humid air afterwards, or stored in a serious drybox, PETG is always wet. PETG is very bad about not resuming well after retraction when it's wet (my theory: the water absorbs all the heat in its phase transition to vapor before the heat can properly melt the filament) and this will tend to produce the condition where the extruder starts slipping, leading to game-over.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Go slower. 30-40 mm/s at 0.2 mm layer height and 0.4 mm line width is about the highest you can expect PETG to do well at on this kind of extrusion setup.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Tune your retraction length down as low as you can take it without oozing/stringing, and your travel speed up. Travel speed (and acceleration) should be set as high as your printer can handle. This is a win-win situation: your prints finish a lot faster &lt;em&gt;and&lt;/em&gt; there's less time for the retracted material to cool down while traveling, which would make it harder to restart extrusion after travel. It also reduces the risk of oozing/stringing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However you might just find that printing with PETG is too much of a pain without an upgraded extrusion system. For prints where PLA is an appropriate material, consider just using PLA.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2022-09-22T13:08:37.427" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19962" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19959" CreationDate="2022-09-22T20:18:47.877" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is lost material due to oozing, combined with lack of linear advance calibration. If you don't see ooze/stringing on the outside of your model, it's probably inside, caused by internal travel skipping retractions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you use Cura, the Cura term for this is combing. Rather than turning it off, it's best to set the &amp;quot;Max Comb Distance Without Retract&amp;quot; to around 1 mm, and turn on &amp;quot;Connect Infill Lines&amp;quot;. This will not add many retractions, but should still avoid all the internal oozing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you use PrusaSlicer/SuperSlicer, I believe their name for the same option is &amp;quot;Only retract when crossing perimeters&amp;quot;. Turning this off will make it always retract for travel moves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll also want to tune Linear Advance. Otherwise you'll still have inconsistent extrusion thickness that's speed-dependent, and bulging corners.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2022-09-22T20:18:47.877" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19963" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-09-24T15:22:17.593" Score="3" ViewCount="1751" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm using PrusaSlicer with OpenSCAD.  I want to print a solid object with a notch in it, without top layers, but with infill and solid walls for the notch, like this...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rWoz3.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Screenshot of the preview of a 3D model in PrusaSlicer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rWoz3.png&quot; alt=&quot;Screenshot of the preview of a 3D model in PrusaSlicer&quot; title=&quot;Screenshot of the preview of a 3D model in PrusaSlicer&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can set the number of top layers to zero (&lt;strong&gt;Print Settings&lt;/strong&gt; &amp;gt; &lt;strong&gt;Layers and perimeters&lt;/strong&gt; &amp;gt; &lt;strong&gt;Solid Layers&lt;/strong&gt; &amp;gt; &lt;strong&gt;Top&lt;/strong&gt; = 0), which gets rid of the top layers as desired, but it also removes the base from the notch, like this...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mdzlT.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Screenshot of the preview of a 3D model in PrusaSlicer with no Top Layers&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mdzlT.png&quot; alt=&quot;Screenshot of the preview of a 3D model in PrusaSlicer with no Top Layers&quot; title=&quot;Screenshot of the preview of a 3D model in PrusaSlicer with no Top Layers&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any way to do what I want without awful shenanigans in OpenSCAD or editing G-code?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="35470" LastEditorUserId="8353" LastEditDate="2022-10-01T20:05:40.830" LastActivityDate="2022-10-01T20:05:40.830" Title="Print Object Without Top Layer But With Intermediate Layers" Tags="|slicing|openscad|prusaslicer|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19964" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19963" CreationDate="2022-09-24T17:59:09.843" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just confirmed it works flawlessly in PrusaSlicer as it did in Slic3r, the software from which PrusaSlicer is forked. Just use the solution provided in &amp;quot;&lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6522/different-infill-in-the-same-part/6523#6523&quot;&gt;Different infill in the same part&lt;/a&gt;&amp;quot;, but now do not change infill options but the layer options.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First load the cube with notch, and then load/insert a modifier to get something like the following (grey is the box with notch, green cube is the modifier):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jiHYw.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jiHYw.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now change the options (click on modifier and left-click to select &lt;code&gt;Layers and Perimeters&lt;/code&gt; option item) of the modifier (select zero top and bottom layers):&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DZNtW.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DZNtW.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The sliced solution will look like what you request:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vKsfy.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vKsfy.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that this solution will give you an object that is exactly the height of the designed cube, it just doesn't have a top surface, but infill and walls to the top.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2022-09-26T17:00:54.710" LastActivityDate="2022-09-26T17:00:54.710" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19966" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19963" CreationDate="2022-09-24T22:05:09.647" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would just pause at the second to last layer, remove the print and cancel it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With Cura you can do this easily in the slicer. Or just manually do it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have never used Prusaslicer but all slicers must have this. For more information, see the Prusa documentation &lt;a href=&quot;https://help.prusa3d.com/article/insert-pause-or-custom-g-code-at-layer_120490&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&amp;quot;Insert pause or custom G-code at layer&amp;quot;&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31811" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2022-09-24T22:58:52.550" LastActivityDate="2022-09-24T22:58:52.550" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19967" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-09-25T00:47:10.010" Score="0" ViewCount="230" Body="&lt;p&gt;What are the correct steps for slicing an .stl file with OSX Terminal. I have tried &lt;code&gt;cd&lt;/code&gt; to the directory where the .stl file is and then &lt;code&gt;CuraEngine slice -s mesh_rotation_matrix=[[1,0,0], [0,1,0], [0,0,1]]&amp;quot; -l my3DP.stl -o my3DP.gcode&lt;/code&gt;. Nothing happens when I run this sequence of commands. I also tried Slic3r but get a command not found error.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="35346" LastActivityDate="2022-09-25T00:47:10.010" Title="Command Line Slicer OSX Terminal" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|slicing|slic3r|automation|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19969" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-09-25T05:45:54.803" Score="7" ViewCount="920" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am experiencing an extreme Z-banding issue that has come on all of a sudden.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm quite new to 3D printing and I have just taken a deep dive into printer calibration by going through the &lt;a href=&quot;https://teachingtechyt.github.io/calibration.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Teaching Tech 3D Printer Calibration&lt;/a&gt; website, after which my printer was working great.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Overnight, I printed a part that took over 9 hours to print, and it printed very nicely. But today, without making any changes to my printer or slicer settings, I printed another part and the results were awful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HZERq.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HZERq.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Printed part&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/k7Yal.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/k7Yal.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Close-up on left side&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HhNJu.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HhNJu.png&quot; alt=&quot;Close-up on right side&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm getting some quite extreme Z-banding that seems to occur at a regular frequency, but not perfectly regular. It also does not seem to be a layer shift because it bulges out on both sides of the upright sections on the same layer. So I don't believe it is due to Z-wobble from a bent or misaligned lead screw, but I could be wrong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've gone over my machine several times checking everything is tight, the belts are tensioned adequately, etc, etc, and I can't find anything that seems to be wrong. But, of course there could still be some mechanical issue I have not discovered.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any help on what could be the cause of this would be greatly appreciated, as I am at a loss as to why it has suddenly started doing this when it was working great the day before. All the websites I have found suggest that it is due to Z-wobble (but I'm not so sure for the reasons stated above), due to extrusion issues (but none of the websites show anything near as extreme as this), or due to bed temperature problems (I've carried out PID auto tuning and it seems to be stable).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The part I printed last night for 9 hours used a 40% gyroid infill, so my printer was vigorously vibrating for a decent chunk of time. Could this have caused some damage?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My printer is a stock Creality Ender 3 S1 Pro with 0.4 mm diameter brass nozzle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Slicer Settings:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Nozzle temp = 200 °C&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bed temp = 60 °C&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Layer height = 0.2 mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Line width = 0.4 mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wall count/top layers/bottom layers = 4&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Alternate extra wall on&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Infill density = 40 %&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Infill pattern = gyroid&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Flow = 88 %&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Initial layer flow = 110 %&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Print speed = 50 mm/s&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Outer wall speed = 15 mm/s&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Inner wall speed = 20 mm/s&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Travel speed = 100 mm/s&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Print acceleration = 700 mm/s^2&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Jerk = 15 mm/s&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Retraction distance = 1 mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Z-Hop off&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="35478" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2022-09-25T12:40:12.643" LastActivityDate="2023-04-06T22:06:50.887" Title="Sudden Extreme Z-Banding" Tags="|print-quality|troubleshooting|z-axis|extrusion|layer-shifting|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19971" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-09-25T19:16:08.533" Score="1" ViewCount="138" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am printing Eryone 1.75 mm PET on my Kobra Max printer with 80°C bed and 230°C.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am experiencing this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RXv0n.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Possible stringing and over-extrusion&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RXv0n.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Possible stringing and over-extrusion&quot; title=&quot;Possible stringing and over-extrusion&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this &amp;quot;over-extrusion&amp;quot; and &amp;quot;stringing&amp;quot;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And how do I avoid this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="35280" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2022-10-03T12:50:54.747" LastActivityDate="2022-10-03T15:01:15.583" Title="What is this behaviour called and how do I fix this?" Tags="|print-material|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19972" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-09-25T21:41:44.207" Score="1" ViewCount="75" Body="&lt;p&gt;Due to a mains power failure, I was unable to finish a &amp;quot;Thingiverse Stripes&amp;quot; auto bed levelling test on my new Ender 3 v2. When power returned several hours later and I tried to resume the Test, I discovered that the Bowden tube and nozzle were blocked.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I replaced the Bowden tube and nozzle but now found that after the first inch of the print layer the filament stopped, and the extruder stepper motor was not working. I checked that I could operate the extruder with the manual wheel to prove that there was no blockage and it worked ok. I also checked the extruder stepper motor in the &amp;quot;Move&amp;quot; mode; It would not turn in either direction. I think it tried to move but stopped instantly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="35489" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2022-09-25T23:03:00.917" LastActivityDate="2022-09-25T23:03:00.917" Title="I'm new to 3D Printing and I've have just assembled a new Ender3 V2 with a CR Touch bed leveller. The extruder motor is not working" Tags="|creality-ender-3|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19974" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19976" CreationDate="2022-09-26T12:17:19.277" Score="4" ViewCount="737" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an HBot 3D 1.1 printer (it's a CoreXY style printer, newer versions are produced by ZMorph). I think that a filament guide tube inside the hotend got damaged, resulting in decreased diameter, which means I can't push the filament through it. It stops halfway through the heatsink (black marker in the attached photo).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I need some help, I'm not sure how to disassemble this type of hotend. With my Ender 3 which I have at home, I can just unscrew the nozzle since it's simply a hexagonal nut, but here it seems that the nozzle and heat block are one part and I don't think I can unscrew the heat block and the heatsink. I'm not sure what to do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm sure the nozzle itself isn't clogged. I've done some cold-pulling on one end, inserted a thin wire from the other, and examined the insides with a flashlight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Pkoj3.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Photo of the heat block and nozzle of the HBot 3D printer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Pkoj3.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Photo of the heat block and nozzle of the HBot 3D printer&quot; title=&quot;Photo of the heat block and nozzle of the HBot 3D printer&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="32028" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2022-09-26T13:09:33.253" LastActivityDate="2022-09-26T17:03:40.257" Title="Changing a teflon tube inside a hotend, help with disassembly" Tags="|hotend|nozzle|ptfe-tube|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19975" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19974" CreationDate="2022-09-26T13:52:20.327" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not exactly the type of answer you probably want, but this hotend does not look servicable. The nozzle is usually considered a consumable part unless it's made of something like tungsten carbide, or at least steel. The nozzle is almost surely long past its useful life unless the printer was barely used, and the entire hotend has lots of design flaws like very small thermal mass and heat sink butting up against the heater block, which defeats the purpose of having a heat sink.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The right solution here is to figure out what kind of attachment it's supposed to use (dimensions of that groove mount) and buy or put together a replacement hotend.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2022-09-26T13:52:20.327" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19976" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19974" CreationDate="2022-09-26T16:47:19.197" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is an old hotend type, it is called a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/search?q=j+head+nozzle&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;J-Head&lt;/a&gt; (see e.g. the &lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/wiki/J_Head_Nozzle#Mk_V&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;J-Head Nozzle Mk V&lt;/a&gt;, I'm unsure which exact version you have). The hotend is serviceable, you can buy separate &amp;quot;nozzles&amp;quot; (with integrated heater block) for it in &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.123-3d.nl/3D-printer-onderdelen/Extruder/J-Head-p388.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;some e-shops&lt;/a&gt;. You should be able to unscrew the &amp;quot;nozzle&amp;quot; from the PEEK nozzle holder. The milled flat surfaces indicate that you can use a 13 mm or 1/2&amp;quot; open-end wrench to disassemble the PEEK nozzle holder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &amp;quot;nozzle&amp;quot;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/a3MXz.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/a3MXz.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The instruction to assemble such a hotend are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Mk V&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Secure the brass nozzle in a vise by the heater section.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wrap a couple of turns of PTFE tape (plumbing tape) around the brass threads.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Screw the nozzle holder down onto the nozzle. If no flats are milled, use a pair of pliers to tighten the nozzle. The nozzle holder can be protected from the pliers by first wrapping it with a rag or paper towel. If there are flats milled, a 13 mm (1/2&amp;quot;) open-end wrench can be used to tighten the nozzle.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Remove the brass nozzle from the vise.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Slide the PTFE liner down into the nozzle holder. The PTFE liner needs to be inserted such that the flat end is making contact with the brass and the internally tapered end is towards the top.&#xA;Install the washer.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Screw in the hollow-lock socket set screw. Ensure that the washer stays centered while tightening this set screw. Use a piece of filament to ensure that the set screw is not too tight as the liner can become compressed and obstruct the passage. If this happens, slightly loosen the set screw.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To disassemble you need to reverse the order.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You need to ask yourself it you want to change to a newer type of hotend, but generally, these are higher, e.g. compared to a V6:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2XnBm.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2XnBm.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2022-09-26T17:03:40.257" LastActivityDate="2022-09-26T17:03:40.257" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19979" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19657" CreationDate="2022-09-27T08:51:37.023" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I fixed my overhangs by increasing the nozzle temp. You need to heat it up enough that the elasticity is lost which makes it misbehave on overhangs and curl up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11272" LastActivityDate="2022-09-27T08:51:37.023" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19980" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-09-27T14:25:57.883" Score="2" ViewCount="140" Body="&lt;p&gt;Recently, I have started to use PETG as my new material, before that I had been using ABS. But I stopped using ABS because of the cracking. I have been printing a lot of calibration cubes and I thought I was ready to print a bigger piece. This is the result, it has small holes and empty lines in the walls. On the top, I don't know what happened.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a Tronxy cube x5 which I use together with Cura. I print in PETG at 230 °C.The print bed is set to 65 °C. I use a print cooling fan at 30 %. The layer height I set to 0.2 mm, the line width  from the 0.3 mm nozzle. The Printing Speed is set to 20 mm/s for walls and 35 mm/s for infill. My retraction is  4 mm/off at 20 mm/s.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vMcfE.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vMcfE.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/u6CHR.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/u6CHR.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zKIyb.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zKIyb.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What do you recommend I do?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="35506" LastEditorUserId="35506" LastEditDate="2022-09-28T19:24:12.917" LastActivityDate="2022-09-28T19:24:12.917" Title="PETG configuration" Tags="|print-quality|petg|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19981" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-09-27T15:48:36.763" Score="2" ViewCount="629" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an Ender 3, I changed its extruder for one metallic one.&#xA;In my last prints, I am getting issues at the same height. The extruder can't pull the filament in for that z position.&#xA;I cleaned the Z axis, applied oil, and adjusted the eccentric nuts. I have minor improvements but still have many issues with my prints.&#xA;I am thinking of changing to double z-axis, but I'd like to use my printer now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jUwWG.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jUwWG.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Xpk3T.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Xpk3T.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is my printer.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/h3l9N.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/h3l9N.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tBv9x.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tBv9x.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="35507" LastEditorUserId="35507" LastEditDate="2022-09-29T16:01:22.400" LastActivityDate="2024-02-26T06:07:25.937" Title="Ender 3 failing on the same z position every print" Tags="|creality-ender-3|z-axis|underextrusion|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19982" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19983" CreationDate="2022-09-27T17:15:18.513" Score="3" ViewCount="270" Body="&lt;p&gt;Recently, I accidentally shorted out my heater cartridge when trying to do my first nozzle swap on my Prusa MK3S+. I just ordered a new E3D v6 Hotend with 30 W Heater Cartridge and it will be here in a few days. I just cut the wire from my heater cartridge to my heat block (long story short, I can't remove it from the block). I'm not sure I understand exactly the wattage though. The heater cartridge that came with my Prusa MK3S+ is 40 W. Does that mean the actual cartridge or the plug into the board? Also, can I just solder the existing 40 W wires to the new 30 W cartridge? If so, does it need to be a precise solder (I'm not very good at precise soldering) Finally, can I just wrap the connection in electrical tape? Sorry for so many questions; this is my first time trying to understand the electrical component of 3D Printing. Any help would be appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can't replace my individual heater cartridge because the screw was melted in. I checked my mainboard fuses and they are fine. My printer still powers on, all the motors work fine, and even the bed heater works. I cut the wires at the heater cartridge and left them in the air not touching, and now it thinks it's heating up, so I think that I can deduce that the wires were touching the heater cartridge, and I wasn't able to separate them. Unfortunately, I don't have a wire crimper and am trying to keep this fix as simple as possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Note:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After using a 30 W heater on my MK3S+ for a while, I started getting thermal runaway problems somehow, and I have switched over to E3D Revo Six for the safer PTC heating element.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="35508" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2022-11-10T18:35:32.243" LastActivityDate="2022-11-10T18:35:32.243" Title="Using 40W adapter on 30W heater cartridge?" Tags="|prusa-i3|hotend|wiring|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19983" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19982" CreationDate="2022-09-27T18:13:27.847" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's a lot going on in this question, and I think you would have done better to ask first before ordering anything how to fix your printer. It's not even clear what part is damaged. A heater cartridge itself can't be damaged by shorting, as that's basically the normal mode of operation for it. However, if you shorted the leads going into it to one another, bypassing the heater, those wires &lt;strong&gt;or more likely your mainboard&lt;/strong&gt; could be toast. Or you might just have broken a wire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Moreover, it doesn't make sense why you ordered a whole replacement hotend, much less one that's a downgrade for your printer. The E3D V6 is woefully underpowered at 30W. 40W is a bare minimum nowadays.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To answer your specific question points, normally heater cartridges and preassembled hotends come with wires long enough, and proper gauge, to go all the way to the terminals on the mainboard. Some, however, have short wires and some sort of connector. If it has long wires, it's best to just run them all the way to the mainboard as intended rather than splicing. If you do need to splice wire or add a connector, wiring that was made for a higher current will be fine for lower current (as long as it's undamaged). Solder joints are generally not a good idea, though, as they will undergo wear when the wire moves with the toolhead. My understanding is that it's better to use some sort of crimp splice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And of course, before you do any of this, try to determine whether your controller board is what's damaged. If so, which I think is fairly likely, then you need to either repair or replace it, not the hotend. Connecting a multimeter (in voltage mode) or light bulb of the appropriate voltage to the heater terminal on the board and trying to run the heater would tell you immediately if it's bad (no output) but won't necessarily tell you that it's good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2022-09-27T18:13:27.847" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19986" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19980" CreationDate="2022-09-28T12:05:39.747" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It looks like you have moisture in the filament.  Also, Your hotend temperature may be too low.  See Printing PETG in &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/19846/material-to-use-inside-ultrasonic-cleaner/19851#19851&quot;&gt;Material to use inside ultrasonic cleaner&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15075" LastActivityDate="2022-09-28T12:05:39.747" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19987" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19991" CreationDate="2022-09-29T07:43:24.603" Score="1" ViewCount="1102" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm facing a weird problem I cannot understand why it happens.&#xA;Most of my objects have a large planar base so I don't have any adhesion issue.&#xA;I'm using a PLA Silk gold filament from eSun (filament dryer is on while printing) and a Dremel 3D45 printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the bottom (first layer) of an object printed directly on the (glass) bed:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Fggw4.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Fggw4.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Xig7J.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Xig7J.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then I tried another object (very similar) using a raft. The raft itself is almost perfect:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/O5mW1.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/O5mW1.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But, again, the first layer of the actual object (only 0,1 mm air gap from the raft) has the same problems of the first one:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JqH5o.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JqH5o.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The most relevant settings I'm using in Cura are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;layer height: 0.2 mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;initial layer height: 0.3 mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;top/bottom line width: 0.4 mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;initial layer line width: 100%&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;top/bottom thickness: 0.8 mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;nozzle temperature: 205 °C&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;nozzle temperature initial layer: 210 °C&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;bed temperature: 60 °C&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;bed temperature initial layer: 65 °C&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;print speed: 50 mm/s&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;print speed initial layer: 25 mm/s&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;cooling: 100%&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;initial fan speed: 0%&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;regular fan speed at height: 0.3 mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I enabled the auto-calibration before each print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21979" LastActivityDate="2022-11-29T22:09:09.067" Title="Why raft is printed much better than the actual first layer?" Tags="|pla|rafts|dremel-3d45|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19989" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19990" CreationDate="2022-09-29T13:41:26.263" Score="6" ViewCount="277" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had a model I had originally printed in PLA, and then lost the STL... but I still have the G-code. Now I want to print it in PET-G. Do I need to do anything other than update the numbers on the M104 and M90 instructions near the top of the file to set for new hot end and bed temperatures to get it to print properly?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know some materials I might also need to adjust speeds, but it seems like with PLA&amp;lt;=&amp;gt;PET-G those two items ought to be enough. Is there anything else I should check?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12562" LastEditorUserId="12562" LastEditDate="2022-09-29T19:30:56.187" LastActivityDate="2022-10-03T16:19:05.710" Title="Editing a G-code file for different material" Tags="|g-code|print-material|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19990" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19989" CreationDate="2022-09-29T15:33:54.433" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Tired of waiting, the print is now 40% done and seems to be just fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thinking through my own problem more, there are three other things I might want to check (other than base speeds, as mentioned in the question) if I do this in the future:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cooling. Some materials need the cooling fan set differently. This should also be a single line edit near the top of the file.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Retraction. Some materials need different retraction settings to control stringing, and in fact I do find I often need retraction to be a little more aggressive for PET-G vs PLA, even if this one print came out okay. This change is needed for every retraction instruction, instead of just once at the top of the file, but I could probably adjust it via a simple find/replace in the file.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Travel Speed. Some materials need faster travel moves, also for stringing.  This manages a trade-off between speed and quality. One &lt;em&gt;could&lt;/em&gt; just always set for the fastest travel speed, which both improves print times and stringing, but faster travel moves sometimes result in ringing/ghosting at the corners, and so there's a balance that can be different per material type. This &lt;em&gt;might&lt;/em&gt; be adjustable with a find/replace, but I would want to read through the file some to be sure we don't use similar gcode/speed numbers for anything else. It may also be possible to use strong accelleration/jerk controls to compensate for consistently faster travel moves, in which case I could set my slicer to use fast speeds that still always work, regardless of material.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12562" LastEditorUserId="12562" LastEditDate="2022-10-03T16:19:05.710" LastActivityDate="2022-10-03T16:19:05.710" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19991" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19987" CreationDate="2022-09-29T17:39:56.070" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Based on the scarring and the appearance of the printed holes, it looks as if the nozzle to bed distance is not good, it is probably too large (could be too close as well, if you consider the scarring where the nozzle might have picked up already deposited material). The bed is also quite hot, for PLA you could drop this to 50 °C&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that an initial layer height of 0.3 mm is also quite large, it causes a lot of material to be deposited while there might be too much/too little room for the amount. Printing on glass should give you a shiny mirror glaze finish (unless the glass is textured); the images don't express that feature from printing on glass build platforms.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A raft generally shouldn't be necessary for PLA (but some exceptions may apply), but certainly not for large planar based prints with a decent amount of surface area in contact with the bed. It is hard to get a &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/19922/&quot;&gt;nice surface on top of a raft/support structure&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rafts generally print very well as there is extra space in between the deposited lines, and there usually is some over-extrusion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2022-11-29T22:09:09.067" LastActivityDate="2022-11-29T22:09:09.067" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19992" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-09-30T14:33:43.907" Score="1" ViewCount="74" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to troubleshoot a problem/problems for a couple of days now regarding printing issues caused probably by the Z-axis. I'm new to 3D printing and kind of at a loss about what to do next or how to do it right. I hope you have some ideas about what could cause it and what to try. (There is also a picture included where you can see missing spots/holes in the print and I also would like to know how to fix that)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Printer: ELEGOO Neptune 3&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Material: PLA&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Slicer: Cura&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I already tried:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Readjusting the lead screw and couplers&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Readjusting the belt tension&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Readjusting the rollers&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/K7ouO.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Photo of a printed model with printing errors&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/K7ouO.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Photo of a printed model with printing errors&quot; title=&quot;Photo of a printed model with printing errors&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="35528" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2022-09-30T20:23:08.587" LastActivityDate="2022-09-30T20:23:08.587" Title="Layers offset at top and bottom and some inbetween" Tags="|print-quality|troubleshooting|elegoo-neptune-3|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19993" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19887" CreationDate="2022-10-01T01:47:59.060" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;To my understanding all PETG is vulnerable to different solvents to a certain degree.&#xA;Despite PET being resistant to acids of many kinds, hence why it is used in plastic bottles and plastic-ware, this does not transfer over.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Nearly all filaments are incapable of handling the stronger kinds of acids, and although I cannot speak for the manufacturers on Amazon, poor quality will inexorably aggravate the thermoplastic more-so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it's any consolation, most/any filaments available are not remarkably chemically stable, least of all against organic solvents.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="35537" LastEditorUserId="35385" LastEditDate="2022-11-01T16:52:13.860" LastActivityDate="2022-11-01T16:52:13.860" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19998" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19999" CreationDate="2022-10-01T16:36:32.280" Score="3" ViewCount="1268" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are 3D prints safe to touch right after printing? If not should I do some kind of curing (like in resin printing) when my prints are done or wash them with alcohol or something.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="35316" LastEditorUserId="35316" LastEditDate="2024-01-27T20:31:00.100" LastActivityDate="2024-01-27T20:31:00.100" Title="Are 3D prints safe to touch right after printing?" Tags="|print-material|safety|material|health|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19999" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19998" CreationDate="2022-10-01T18:23:16.990" Score="8" Body="&lt;h2&gt;FFF/FDM: Yes&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;FDM/FFF runs by melting a filament and letting it cool again. As soon as the printed parts are cooled down to below 50°C (which is rather quick) handling them is safe. There's no chemical process involved, it is a pure physical, thermoplastic process, and the plastic re-solidifies as the part is cooled down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is far more likely to get damage from touching the hotend than from the printed part.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;SLS/DLMS aka Fused Powder prints: Yes but...&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;SLS/DLMS runs by pointing a high-powered laser on a fine powder and melting/smelting/welding/sintering it together. While such powder prints, no matter what type of powder they are made from, are safe for your &lt;em&gt;hands&lt;/em&gt; to touch, the fine powders are very bad for your lungs. Handling such prints requires breathing protection until they are dusted off, usually using compressed air.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For stability, some are impregnated with resins after print, which requires hand protection till the resins are cured.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;DLP/SLA aka &amp;quot;Resin&amp;quot;: NO&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Resin parts are made by curing a liquid resin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The most common type is DLP/SLA, where a laser or light source cures the resin at the bottom of a vat and the model is pulled up from. As a result, they come coated in liquid, uncured resin. These resins are a known skin irritant, &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/8594/best-way-to-deal-with-resin-printers-in-your-living-space&quot;&gt;and their fumes can be an irritant too&lt;/a&gt;. In general, &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/18088/running-sla-printer-in-the-bedroom/18134#18134&quot;&gt;keep them in a dedicated workshop&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because of this, these prints are &lt;strong&gt;not&lt;/strong&gt; safe to handle barehanded and need to be washed and cured after printing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Polyjet Resin Printing: kindoff&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's a method of resin printing that is more akin to an inkjet printer, such as the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.stratasys.com/en/guide-to-3d-printing/technologies-and-materials/polyjet-technology/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Stratasys Polyjet system&lt;/a&gt;. Those prints don't come coated in resin and come out cured to a point where handling them is safe, but those are (as of 2022) industrial machines, and even as &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.fabbaloo.com/news/question-of-the-week-polyjet-patents&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;the PolyJet core patent expired in 2019&lt;/a&gt;, it is a market that nobody jumped at, especially considering many of the advanced features like full-color Polyjet using CMYB is under patent still. Oh, and apparently, even in 2022, only one other company managed to make a functional Polyjet machine that is ripe for the market, which is super tiny in the first place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Back to topic. While the parts come out fully cured, polyjet printing itself is messy. You absolutely need support material &lt;strong&gt;everywhere&lt;/strong&gt;. It is safe to touch, but in the dissolution stage of the support material, it is most certainly not safe to touch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2023-04-28T13:12:37.273" LastActivityDate="2023-04-28T13:12:37.273" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20001" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-10-01T23:24:23.810" Score="4" ViewCount="6618" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just purchased this Ender 3 Pro about 1 week ago and since then I've been having nightmares with leveling/tramming the printer bed. From having to tram it again after every print to not being able to level it at all.&#xA;Since then I've been reading and watching a lot of problem-related content to try and find a solution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The two most recommended upgrades were a glass bed and stiffer springs for the bed so that's what I bought. I purchased the original Creality glass bed and the yellow springs and for a day or so I got it to work in an acceptable way but I still had to tram the bed every couple of prints.&#xA;Today for some unknown reason, I woke up and I can't seem to get my bed leveled in the middle. I've tried every possible solution that crossed my mind but the middle of the bed is still too far from the nozzle and the filament won't stick.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="35546" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2022-10-02T01:43:11.313" LastActivityDate="2024-03-08T23:08:31.023" Title="Ender 3 Pro bed is lower in the middle" Tags="|creality-ender-3|troubleshooting|bed-leveling|calibration|glass-bed|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20002" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-10-02T00:58:28.603" Score="2" ViewCount="68" Body="&lt;p&gt;What are ways to a priori determine how bed flatness affects prints, as a function of the initial layer height? It's pretty obvious that a 50 µm difference from one edge of the print to the other is not a big deal when layer heights are 500 µm, but it's huge when the initial layer height is 100 µm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So where's the elbow between &lt;strong&gt;good&lt;/strong&gt;, &lt;strong&gt;okay&lt;/strong&gt;, and &lt;strong&gt;bad&lt;/strong&gt;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Motivation: I'm working on making a flat bed and want to know when to stop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="34675" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2023-10-27T05:56:47.700" LastActivityDate="2023-10-27T05:56:47.700" Title="How does relative bed flatness affect print quality?" Tags="|bed|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20003" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20002" CreationDate="2022-10-02T02:31:46.837" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can go about this by doing the arithmetic for volume of the extruded lines that go in the first layer, and figuring how their width will be affected by their thickness differing from the planned thickness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For isolated lines or lines that are just part of a double wall, any excess will be &amp;quot;elephant foot&amp;quot;. For solid fill, the error will accumulate until there's nowhere for the material to go, and it will either pile up above the nozzle height at the sides of the nozzle or cause the extruder to skip or slip after building up pressure that leaves the nozzle over-primed. It's also possible that the bed springs or compressibility of the build surface (buildtak, etc.) take up some of the error past this point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For cases where the distance between the nozzle and bed is too great, on the other hand, it's possible that the extrusion will only slightly smash against the bed, or not at all. In that case you have to work out what dimensions the non-squished, likely-circular cross sections will have.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2022-10-02T02:31:46.837" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20004" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20001" CreationDate="2022-10-02T08:25:51.520" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Glass beds are rigid, they won't sag in the middle after a few days, or months, or years. So the problem might be the undercarriage levelling equipment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The screws may be unwinding or slipping somehow. I suggest you level it one by one and fix the knobs so they cannot turn and then try it out. Perhaps before that unwind the knobs fully and examine the threads for problems like slippage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31811" LastActivityDate="2022-10-02T08:25:51.520" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20005" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-10-02T10:58:05.357" Score="1" ViewCount="1107" Body="&lt;p&gt;In a review for a certain filament I read that somebody recommended &amp;quot;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.amazon.de/gp/customer-reviews/RVMUN4CW9ZLKX/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_ttl?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;ASIN=B01080YND6&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;a feeding rate of 105%&lt;/a&gt;&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What does he mean, and how could I set this in Cura?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I search for &amp;quot;&lt;em&gt;feed&lt;/em&gt;&amp;quot; in the print settings properties of Cura, nothing is found, so I suspect he means &amp;quot;&lt;em&gt;speed&lt;/em&gt;&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I search for speed, multiple speed settings turn up, not only one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How could I do what he recommended?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DoQ2L.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DoQ2L.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="35280" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2022-10-02T12:18:08.563" LastActivityDate="2022-10-03T19:11:03.690" Title="What does somebody mean in Cura when he demands a &quot;feeding rate of 105%&quot;?" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|speed|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20006" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20005" CreationDate="2022-10-02T12:15:39.030" Score="2" Body="&lt;h2&gt;[Extruder] feed rate [modifier] is used synonymous to extrusion multiplier&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The feed rate of the extruder is the rate at which filament is pushed (fed) into the hotend. An overwrite value that modifies that rate from the normal rate is in most slicers called &amp;quot;extrusion multiplier&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is a &lt;em&gt;quickfix&lt;/em&gt; to manipulate print behavior, especially addressing under extrusion due to various problems, such as mis-sized filament or to compensate for deformability of it compared to the filament the extruder is calibrated for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is however not a permanent fix. See also &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11074/why-and-how-am-i-supposed-to-change-the-extrusion-multiplier?noredirect=1&amp;amp;lq=1&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6968/slicer-line-width-vs-extrusion-multiplier-for-layer-adhesion?noredirect=1&amp;amp;lq=1&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/8382/isnt-using-the-extrusion-multiplier-like-cheating/8384#8384&quot;&gt;here.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2022-10-03T19:11:03.690" LastActivityDate="2022-10-03T19:11:03.690" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20007" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20008" CreationDate="2022-10-02T12:51:41.797" Score="3" ViewCount="123" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am trying to print ColorFabb XT-Filament PETG on my Kobra Max, and I get the following results:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Bq046.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Mess&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Bq046.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Mess&quot; title=&quot;Mess&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These are my Cura settings:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FNcQF.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Cura settings&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FNcQF.png&quot; alt=&quot;Cura settings&quot; title=&quot;Cura settings&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="35280" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2022-10-05T11:24:41.700" LastActivityDate="2022-10-05T11:24:41.700" Title="What is this situation called and how do I avoid it?" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|filament|petg|colorfabb-xt|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20008" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20007" CreationDate="2022-10-02T13:19:37.907" Score="3" Body="&lt;h2&gt;WAY too low print temperature/wrong material Profile&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's a PLA profile with 195 °C on the printhead. PETG is recommended between 230 °C and 250 °C. Load a PETG-Profile. in Cura, the material (which dictates print temperature) is a separate thing and can be swapped independent of many other settings, especially how detailed you print. However, very careful piece of advice:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Save your profile before swapping materials!&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2022-10-02T14:07:06.990" LastActivityDate="2022-10-02T14:07:06.990" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20009" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19971" CreationDate="2022-10-02T14:15:23.197" Score="0" Body="&lt;h1&gt;Stringing&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PETG is prone to stringing, even with the best settings. Often, I live with some stringing as strings are easy to clean up while other issues can be introduced by getting totally rid of it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastActivityDate="2022-10-02T14:15:23.197" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20010" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19971" CreationDate="2022-10-03T15:01:15.583" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;PETG sticks to brass nozzles &lt;em&gt;really well&lt;/em&gt;. Better than it sticks to itself, in many cases. When travelling over already-printed material, especially if the filament is not retracted (Cura calls this kind of travel &amp;quot;combing&amp;quot;) or if the material it's travelling over is overextruded and bulging up, the nozzle will pick-up/dig-up some of that material and drag it around. There, it accumulates until the size and shape is adequate to cause it to get dislodged when a part that's sticking out far enough not to be molten collides with another part of the print, and it falls off. It may get picked up again by the hot nozzle later, leading the process to repeat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are various mitigations for this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Limit &amp;quot;combing&amp;quot;. In Cura, set &amp;quot;Max Combing Distance Without Retract&amp;quot; to 1 mm and &amp;quot;Connect Infill Lines&amp;quot; on to get good behavior without introducing huge numbers of retractions. slic3r-based slicers have an option called something like &amp;quot;Only Retract When Crossing Perimeters&amp;quot; that you want to turn &lt;strong&gt;off&lt;/strong&gt; to get the same effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Make sure you're not overextruding. Turn down flow slightly if needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Dry your filament. PETG is always wet unless you dried it in the past 24 hours yourself, and wet PETG does this a lot worse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You may be able to select a nozzle that the material doesn't stick to. There are non-stick (likely PTFE) coated nozzles designed for this purpose (but they can't be used at high temperatures), and nickel plated seems to do better too. I'm not sure about other materials like stainless steel or (note: expensive) tungsten carbide but they may be options to improve this too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2022-10-03T15:01:15.583" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20011" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20005" CreationDate="2022-10-03T17:55:22.560" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the context of the linked source (in German &lt;em&gt;&amp;quot;Die Feeding Rate sollte mit 105 % eingestellt werden&amp;quot;&lt;/em&gt;), with &lt;em&gt;&amp;quot;a feeding rate of 105 %&amp;quot;&lt;/em&gt; is meant the extrusion multiplier (there is no reference in the source to Cura). This is explained in &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/20006&quot;&gt;this answer&lt;/a&gt;. The answer is correct for the translation, but should have warned for the incorrect wording. Technically, &lt;em&gt;feed rate&lt;/em&gt; is &lt;strong&gt;not&lt;/strong&gt; a synonym for &lt;em&gt;extrusion multiplier&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The source is wrongly using the term &lt;em&gt;&amp;quot;feeding rate&amp;quot;&lt;/em&gt;, feeding rate is the rate at which all steppers are scaled, not solely the E (extruder) stepper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In G-code this is found to be the &lt;code&gt;F&lt;/code&gt; parameter, e.g. in &lt;code&gt;G1 F1200 X76.468 Y148.947 E0.0264&lt;/code&gt; the feed rate of 1200 mm/min is applied on all steppers, in this example X, Y and E. Changing the feed rate changes all speeds for all steppers simultaneously. This is found in G-code &lt;a href=&quot;https://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M220.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;code&gt;M220&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The extrusion multiplier (or known as &lt;em&gt;&amp;quot;Flow Percentage&amp;quot;&lt;/em&gt;) only acts on the E stepper motor, this is not reflected in the G-code, but adjusted in the firmware planner. The G-code to adjust the flow percentage is &lt;a href=&quot;https://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M221.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;code&gt;M221&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2022-10-03T18:02:23.567" LastActivityDate="2022-10-03T18:02:23.567" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20014" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19981" CreationDate="2022-10-04T04:09:22.480" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I fixed this issue today on two printers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One was failing first or second layer, the other after 1/2 an hour or so. After trying everything else I traced the cause to changing the nozzle to cheap steel ones. Changed back to the old brass ones and both printers are working fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unsure what is wrong with the steel nozzles, I bought 10 of them online for peanuts, but happy to be printing again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31811" LastActivityDate="2022-10-04T04:09:22.480" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20015" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20026" CreationDate="2022-10-04T12:20:24.290" Score="4" ViewCount="57" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just purchased the PrimaFix heated bed adhesive for my 3D printer. I read on the back of the box that it's dangerous when it comes in contact with the eyes, skin, mouth and when swallowed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After printing, is it safe to touch the first layer? If not, what should I do to make it safe to touch?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4LdI1.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4LdI1.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="35316" LastActivityDate="2022-10-06T08:59:48.397" Title="Is the first layer safe to touch after printing with heated bed adhesive (PrimaFix)?" Tags="|adhesion|safety|health|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20016" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20018" CreationDate="2022-10-04T12:42:31.440" Score="0" ViewCount="60" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a PLA 3D-printed object made of several rings with a diameter of 150 mm and a thickness of 6 mm. The height of each ring is about 30-35 mm but it does not matter so much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm looking for a way to keep the rings together (one on top of another). I cannot place anything inside the ring (like a thicker area to host a nut). Most of the rings may have a closed top or bottom, so I cannot access the inner part.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm using three tabs (at different angles to force the correct alignment) that fit inside matching slots on the counterpart:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VSajN.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VSajN.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IiPn8.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IiPn8.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They are a bit stronger than pins and holes due to the greater surface of the base layer, but of course are useful only for alignment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Due to the very small thickness of the ring I cannot place a screw inside them to keep in position, the inner wall cannot hold a screw!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was thinking about L-shaped tabs and slots to fix the rings rotating them a bit, but:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;it would not easy to clean the horizontal leg of the slots&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;nothing would prevent to rotate the rings in the opposite way (even accidentally) so the disconnect&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For my use-case scenario, I don't need anything too strong. Just avoid to disconnect the rings when taking the object in hands. I tried with magnets but:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;to make an acceptable resistance I needed 7-8 per ring (due to their small size)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the electronics inside uses Hall sensors so I cannot use magnets!&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any idea?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21979" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2022-10-06T21:38:37.707" LastActivityDate="2022-10-06T21:38:37.707" Title="Make a joint to keep together rings of PLA" Tags="|pla|cad|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20017" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-10-04T15:00:53.117" Score="1" ViewCount="1269" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am new to 3D printing. I have a Longer LK5 Pro. I was making a part that has raised letters, and wanted to have white letters on the black part. I used a Post Processing script on the Cura program called &amp;quot;change filament&amp;quot;, which is supposed to stop printing, retract the head, and allow you to change the filament. Mine just keeps on printing. I've tried &amp;quot;pause&amp;quot; and done the filament change, but unsuccessfully so far because of blobs deposited on the letters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any suggestions?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="35574" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2022-11-04T09:17:55.837" LastActivityDate="2023-10-31T03:51:57.443" Title="Changing filament colors" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|longer-lk5|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20018" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20016" CreationDate="2022-10-04T15:27:10.537" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;One possibility, if the wall thickness is sufficient, might be to put &lt;em&gt;screw threads&lt;/em&gt; in the actual tube wall.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The wonderful thing with CAD and 3D printing is you can absolutely control the thread start points and shoulder position, so the clock orientation of the parts when they're screwed together is perfectly repeatable from one part to the next.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The potential down side is that threads require some minimum wall thickness to avoid introducing a line of weakness where the root diameter is too close to the inside or outside diameter of the main part.  One way to help this is to use finer threads, or square or Acme thread profile, which can grip strongly without a great deal of engagement depth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28508" LastActivityDate="2022-10-04T15:27:10.537" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20019" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20017" CreationDate="2022-10-04T22:05:42.567" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've done it a few ways depending on the desired effect I'm after.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Manually pausing the machine is what seems to come out best. If you design for it, you can sometimes have it pause while it's over infill and therefore has no blobs to worry about. I haven't looked into doing it automatically, but perhaps it's possible to pause partway through a layer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the design doesn't have to be flat, then I'll do a solid colour and the last top layers another colour with the design cut out. This is to my mind optimal as you get a bit of texture with the design inset as well as different colour and makes for a nice clean method.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other way was z-hopping which is an idea I got from a Youtube video. Cura has a setting for this. Basically you can make the nozzle lift when it moves. You split the colours into two separate objects and you print in one colour. Then you change filament and print another colour as a separate print right over the top of it and the nozzle hops over the original print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31811" LastEditorUserId="4625" LastEditDate="2022-11-28T07:59:59.210" LastActivityDate="2022-11-28T07:59:59.210" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20020" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-10-04T22:40:37.000" Score="2" ViewCount="46" Body="&lt;p&gt;I simply don't have a lot of experience with 3D FDM printing and additionally Priline PC+CF filament.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It does print relatively easily. But a coworker wanted a Batman symbol for his daughter. Now I'm getting problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Seems on longer runs when filling in the top or bottom the right side doesn't have enough filament while the left side does.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then there are these occasional areas where the material... guessing is retracted and causing a lift?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Was going to try disabling it... there are lots of things to try but was hoping for some guidance. Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yJ2PL.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Photo of first few layers with printing errors highlighted in red&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yJ2PL.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Photo of first few layers with printing errors highlighted in red&quot; title=&quot;Photo of first few layers with printing errors highlighted in red&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/K3hhi.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Photo of first few layers with good printing highlighted in green and print errors in red&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/K3hhi.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Photo of first few layers with good printing highlighted in green and print errors in red&quot; title=&quot;Photo of first few layers with good printing highlighted in green and print errors in red&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't recall having either issue with PLA, especially the bottom. And that didn't manifest until this model.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Printer: Ender 3 S1 Pro&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Slicer: MatterControl&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Nozzle: 265 °C&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Bed: 105 °&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="35576" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2022-10-05T02:38:55.530" LastActivityDate="2022-11-07T22:09:35.377" Title="Cause of print errors with PC + CF?" Tags="|creality-ender-3|troubleshooting|fdm|polycarbonate|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20021" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-10-04T23:21:55.737" Score="1" ViewCount="580" Body="&lt;p&gt;So, long story short, I was using the SKR Mini E3 V2 and had a load of weird issues which lead to it not being able to connect via a Raspberry Pi 3B via USB (using OctoPi distribution).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried updating firmware and it would connect to the printer but failed whenever I did anything i.e. heating, moving an axis, etc. I eventually managed to find a heating error. I changed the thermistor on the hot end, realized it was complaining about the heated bed so changed that too, then the Pi just wouldn't see the board. I bought a new V3 board and on the first test everything connected fine; it even started heating up and then cut off as it was getting warm. After a couple of attempts to refresh the firmware, it has done the same thing where it won't find the printer. Like an idiot, I had removed the original LCD screen as I would just use OctoPrint as the screen. I am going to check it when I find out what I did with it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Firstly, is there a way to set the boards back to default, just so the Pi sees either again? Secondly, is there a reasonable firmware that I can download or should I just use the Visual Studio application to rebuild the firmware? Would this even be helpful at this stage?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="35577" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2022-10-05T07:16:35.097" LastActivityDate="2022-11-04T16:01:15.270" Title="Ender 3 Pro, tried both SKR Mini E3 V2 and V3 and still unable to connect with OctoPrint" Tags="|creality-ender-3|octoprint|skr-mini-e3|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20022" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20027" CreationDate="2022-10-05T07:43:20.790" Score="1" ViewCount="1750" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use eSUN (Silk) PLA filament daily and I've never had an issue. I use the parameters suggested by the manufacturer:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;nozzle temperature: 210 °C&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;bed temperature: 60 °C (with purple glue)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The extrusions are perfects (the printing itself may be improved, but here I'm talking about the extrusion) even if it runs for 20h+.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Instead with the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.amazon.it/eSUN-Arcobaleno-Multicolore-Precisione-Dimensionale/dp/B081Q78248&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Silk Rainbow PLA&lt;/a&gt; filament, after few hours the extruder is clogged. No more extrusion. I have to stop the printing (and waste all) preheat the extruder, remove the nozzle and extract the filament. Then, feeding another kind of PLA I'm able to recover the functionality.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This happens ONLY with this specific filament!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried to increase the nozzle temperature up to 220 °C. It lasted maybe one hour longer but eventually failed again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The filament is stored inside a dryer that is on during printing.&#xA;What can cause such a behavior? I have a Dremel 3D45.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;UPDATE&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here some pictures. Some parts are broken because I had already thrown it away. The bottom layer is quite good:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AFY1r.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AFY1r.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Details of the surface of the base:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PlvSh.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PlvSh.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HEaRJ.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HEaRJ.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Details of the infill and support structures:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KQFE3.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KQFE3.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Weird enough both the comment and the answer suggest to lower the temperature but here the answer I received from the manufacturer:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can adjust the printing temperature to 230 °C higher, and then&#xA;adjust the printing speed to 40 mm/s slower. The plug is generally&#xA;caused by bad material fluidity, the temperature is set higher, you&#xA;can increase the fluidity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21979" LastEditorUserId="21979" LastEditDate="2022-10-09T15:31:39.930" LastActivityDate="2022-11-08T16:01:05.173" Title="eSun Silk Rainbow PLA leads to nozzle clogging" Tags="|pla|extruder|nozzle|print-failure|dremel-3d45|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20023" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20021" CreationDate="2022-10-05T15:49:09.880" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well.... turns out I'm kind of an idiot but not entirely... I found 3dprintscape.com and he said he had issues with the firmware downloading directly but if he downloaded the whole git as a zip and got it from there... I tried it and it seems to have worked! I even found my screen for the printer which confirms it... but that now means I have an extra board which is probably working fine... dammit... lol&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for at least looking at it if you did... sorry to be easily confused.. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="35577" LastActivityDate="2022-10-05T15:49:09.880" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20024" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20025" CreationDate="2022-10-06T03:14:25.903" Score="7" ViewCount="2019" Body="&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Printer: Kobra Max&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Nozzle: 0.4 mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Material: PLA&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Slicer :Cura&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have printed 1 model 3 times with different settings (different temperatures and different bed temperatures).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Try 1: 190 °C / 50 °C&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Try 2: 210 °C / 70 °C&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Try 3: 230 °C / 50 °C&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All 3 models show 1 &amp;quot;line&amp;quot; at some point.&#xA;The models are smooth all around, but then there is this 1 line on each model.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is this error called, please?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zmV36.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Photo of three printed models with the same printing error&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zmV36.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Photo of three printed models with the same printing error&quot; title=&quot;Photo of three printed models with the same printing error&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/x8b7D.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/x8b7D.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="35280" LastEditorUserId="35280" LastEditDate="2022-10-06T13:57:04.027" LastActivityDate="2023-03-18T00:02:25.280" Title="A vertical scar on the print surface, what is the name of this problem?" Tags="|print-quality|ultimaker-cura|pla|filament|anycubic-kobra-max|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20025" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20024" CreationDate="2022-10-06T03:49:43.937" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is the Z-seam, or just &amp;quot;seam&amp;quot;. It's a consequence of the fact that the extrusion of each layer has to start and stop at some point rather than being a continuous path for the whole print (like it would be in &amp;quot;vase mode&amp;quot;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on your retraction speed and distance, travel speed, linear advance/pressure advance tuning, and various slicer-level knobs, the seam can range from mild and nearly imperceptible to a giant bulge to a gaping hole in your print. Yours doesn't look terribly bad.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most slicers (you didn't mention which you're using; knowing that could help get better answers) have options to control where they position the seam, letting you hide it in corners where possible or put it consistently along one edge of the model you don't care about.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2022-10-06T03:49:43.937" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20026" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20015" CreationDate="2022-10-06T08:59:48.397" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a general purpose catch all warning that some people with sensitive skin might have a rash like reaction, and you should never put these things in your mouth or eyes anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It just means that you should treat it like you would super glue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once it's dry it's inert and safe to handle&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="29097" LastActivityDate="2022-10-06T08:59:48.397" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20027" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20022" CreationDate="2022-10-06T12:03:23.707" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I suggest you lower the temperature. There's a different sweet spot for some filaments even if they're the same brand. And it's not always the middle recommended heat on the label I have found.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31811" LastActivityDate="2022-10-06T12:03:23.707" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20028" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20016" CreationDate="2022-10-06T12:13:23.373" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could use velcro. I find it very easy to work with because you can cut it precisely with scissors or craft knife, and it's great for just holding things together but won't come undone by accident.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's cheap and there are lots of different thicknesses at sewing shops. The ones I use come in sheets and have an adhesive backing. Takes a day for the adhesive to cure but once it's stuck on it won't come off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31811" LastActivityDate="2022-10-06T12:13:23.373" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20029" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20030" CreationDate="2022-10-06T13:59:01.680" Score="5" ViewCount="10589" Body="&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Printer: Kobra Max&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Nozzle: 0.4 mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Material: PLA&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Slicer :Cura&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have printed 1 model 3 times with different settings (different temperatures and different bed temperatures).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Try 1: 190 °C / 50 °C&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Try 2: 210 °C / 70 °C&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Try 3: 230 °C / 50 °C&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All 3 models show a seam.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How / where do I best hide this seam?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zmV36.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Photo of three printed models with the same printing error&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zmV36.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Photo of three printed models with the same printing error&quot; title=&quot;Photo of three printed models with the same printing error&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These are some screenshots of the model in Fusion 360:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/x8b7D.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/x8b7D.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="35280" LastActivityDate="2022-10-07T00:16:20.637" Title="How / where do I hide the seam?" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|pla|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20030" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20029" CreationDate="2022-10-06T14:20:26.050" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a bunch of possible causes for the seam. But the main one is retraction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In Cura the main setting affecting this is under '&lt;strong&gt;Travel&lt;/strong&gt;'.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the '&lt;strong&gt;Travel&lt;/strong&gt;' settings is '&lt;strong&gt;Enable retraction&lt;/strong&gt;', and '&lt;strong&gt;Retract at layer change&lt;/strong&gt;'.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Retraction pulls the filament up and it doesn't make such a noticeable seam.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31811" LastActivityDate="2022-10-06T14:20:26.050" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20031" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20029" CreationDate="2022-10-06T15:03:40.993" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the Cura settings, search for &amp;quot;seam&amp;quot;. This will then display the options to adjust those settings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xBDzm.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Screenshot of Cura settings for 'seam'&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xBDzm.png&quot; alt=&quot;Screenshot of Cura settings for 'seam'&quot; title=&quot;Screenshot of Cura settings for 'seam'&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Make the following adjustments:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Z Seam Alignment&lt;/strong&gt; to &lt;strong&gt;User Specified&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Z Seam Position&lt;/strong&gt; to &lt;strong&gt;Back&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Seam Corner Preference&lt;/strong&gt; to &lt;strong&gt;Hide Seam&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This will position the seam to the best possible position both inside and out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aVo99.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Screenshot of Cura's Preview for a model with the seam shown in white&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aVo99.png&quot; alt=&quot;Screenshot of Cura's Preview for a model with the seam shown in white&quot; title=&quot;Screenshot of Cura's Preview for a model with the seam shown in white&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23193" LastActivityDate="2022-10-06T15:03:40.993" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20032" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20029" CreationDate="2022-10-06T20:16:48.810" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;With cylindrical objects you cannot hide the seem (as there aren't sharp corners to hide the seam), unless the parts are oriented always facing a certain side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are 3 options, one is to face the part with the view you want to display and put the seam at the back with a slicer option, or two, fiddle with the retraction settings to minimize the seem as much as possible, or three, randomize the seam (but this generally doesn't look very well).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2022-10-06T20:16:48.810" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20033" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19803" CreationDate="2022-10-06T20:52:53.847" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Good day, I have experience in applying electroless nickel on difficult 3D parts, in your case, it's exceedingly difficult to do it directly to the printed piece. You will need to seal the piece with a more benign coating that will accept the palladium activator. Also, a sensitizer before the activator is needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Try this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Try your original procedure, but this time use just before the palladium activator, a stannous chloride solution (20 g per 1 L of deionized Water and 10 ml of muriatic acid), submerge the piece in the solution for 1 minute, rinse in deionized water and then place the piece on the palladium activator for 1 minute (don't rinse the activator) and then place the piece directly on the electroless nickel plating bath.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If that still does not produce good results, then you will need to seal the piece with a two-part epoxy sealer and do the process again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="35600" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2022-10-07T01:52:16.473" LastActivityDate="2022-10-07T01:52:16.473" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20034" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20029" CreationDate="2022-10-06T21:23:43.817" Score="2" Body="&lt;h1&gt;There are 5 Ways to deal with seam placement&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;2 ways to place seams deliberately with  &lt;code&gt;Z seam alignment&lt;/code&gt;: &lt;em&gt;User specified&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;code&gt;Seam Corner Preference&lt;/code&gt;: &lt;em&gt;sharpest corner&lt;/em&gt; - this is good to get the seams to one corner, and for boxy prints can make them invisible even. However, this fails for cylinders, as it needs a corner that is discernable sharper than others.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;code&gt;Seam Corner Position&lt;/code&gt;: Choosing a direction - this fails to remove the seam for cylinders for the same reason, but can help if one side isn't seen usually.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;1 way to distribute the seams and &lt;em&gt;blend them in&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;code&gt;Z seam alignment&lt;/code&gt;: &lt;em&gt;random&lt;/em&gt; - by distributing the Z-seams randomly, the whole print looks uniform, but you also have the bulges all over the build.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Vase mode is seamless&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By activating &lt;code&gt;Vase Mode&lt;/code&gt;, the print is automatically printed with a single, continuous shell made from a single, spiraling line. However, such prints can't have overhangs at all and are very thin, making them unusable for most technical applications.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Postprocessing can remove seams&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The most common way is to put the seam on a surface where it does not hurt, and then remove it after the print with either a sharp knife, scraper, sandpaper, or needle files. In most technical usages, sanding and smoothing over the layer lines is beneficial anyway, so removing the seam in the same step often isn't too much an extra problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2022-10-07T00:16:20.637" LastActivityDate="2022-10-07T00:16:20.637" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20035" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20029" CreationDate="2022-10-06T22:57:28.130" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hiding the seam isn't really possible when the object is rotationally symmetric. The closest you can get is hiding it &amp;quot;statistically&amp;quot; by distributing the seam randomly so it's fractionally-bad everywhere rather than fully-bad in one place. Depending on your needs, this might be good, or it might be awful. If you're hoping to clean up the seam in postprocessing, it's probably awful since there's not just one isolated point that needs fixing with a razor blade or something, but the whole print surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One thing you can try, though, is turning on &lt;em&gt;wipe&lt;/em&gt;. In Cura this is &amp;quot;Outer Wall Wipe Distance&amp;quot;. Setting it to 1-2 mm can go a long way to concealing the seam, especially if it's not bulging from ooze, which yours doesn't seem to be. Combined with random distribution, this might come out looking pretty good for your particular need.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In general, how to deal with seams depends on whether the problem is cosmetic or functional. I'm assuming in your case it's cosmetic, but if it is functional (affecting fit of mechanical parts together, making a printed gear rotationally asymmetric, etc.) then one trick you can do is make an artificial &lt;em&gt;cut&lt;/em&gt; into the surface at an arbitrary point and selecting to put the seam on the sharpest corner. This can help ensure the entire print fits inside the intended print volume, and is only missing a small amount of material on a scale smaller than the functional scale of the print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2022-10-06T22:57:28.130" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20037" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20039" CreationDate="2022-10-07T10:25:43.763" Score="1" ViewCount="1544" Body="&lt;p&gt;I need to build me a small support wall 250x80 cm mounted on two metal supports approximately 200 cm apart.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was looking into WPC (Wood Plastic Composite) boards and then it hit me that I may be able to make it functional AND pretty with my 3D printer (Prusa MK3S + MMU2).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I have zero idea on how to calculate whether the board will be able to handle the weight of the soil I would shovel behind it, if at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My current design proposal is to make a hexagon mesh of PETG filament. The hexagons would have cylinder cutouts in all three directions, through which I would then hammer in cylinders to bind them together. Perhaps even some edge contours so that they fit perfectly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But, my problem is that I don't know how to calculate the strength of such a solution (or any other).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this even a viable idea?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The filament type needs a bit more explanation:&#xA;My current proposal is PETG since I read that PLA will become brittle with time (as I can attest to myself having to replace my flag pole holder every 3 - 4 years)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't want ABS since I have horrible experience printing it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did not find anything of particular use when searching for &amp;quot;3D print load-bearing&amp;quot; on this site and similar with Google searches...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="35608" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2022-10-07T11:49:40.190" LastActivityDate="2022-10-08T14:12:52.783" Title="Can I 3D print a wall assembly and expect it to be load-bearing?" Tags="|print-strength|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20038" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20037" CreationDate="2022-10-07T10:45:10.103" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Calculations such as you want are not possible in my opinion except in such general terms as to be useless. Differences in layer height, layer adhesion, print quality and what heat you printed the item would all affect the physical properties.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since it's not a manufactured item with known properties but a unique one. You would have to print and test it yourself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31811" LastActivityDate="2022-10-07T10:45:10.103" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20039" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20037" CreationDate="2022-10-07T13:55:45.790" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could print a decorative layer that attaches to the WPC board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It would be faster and cheaper, and there'd be no doubt about its strength.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="35385" LastActivityDate="2022-10-07T13:55:45.790" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20040" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16659" CreationDate="2022-10-07T17:58:19.613" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Usage: python3 [filename.gcode] [bed-width]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#!/usr/bin/env python3&#xA;&#xA;import re&#xA;from sys import argv&#xA;&#xA;#first arg is the file, second arg is the bed x width&#xA;ifilename = argv[1];&#xA;ofilename = ifilename.replace('.gcode', '-reversed.gcode');&#xA;&#xA;new_data =[]&#xA;BEDX = float(argv[2])&#xA;h = BEDX # Absolute Positioning is default&#xA;&#xA;with open(ifilename, 'r') as ifp:&#xA;    for d in ifp:&#xA;        new_d = ''&#xA;        tokens = d.split()&#xA;        if len(tokens) == 0:&#xA;            pass&#xA;        else:&#xA;            if tokens[0] == 'G91': # Relative Positioning&#xA;                h = 0&#xA;                new_d += d&#xA;            elif tokens[0] == 'G90':# Absolute Positioning&#xA;                h = BEDX&#xA;                new_d += d&#xA;            elif tokens[0] == 'G1':&#xA;                for t in tokens:&#xA;                    if t.startswith('X'):&#xA;                        if len(t) &amp;gt; 1:&#xA;                            x = h - float(t[1:])&#xA;                            t = 'X'+f'{x:.3f}'&#xA;                    new_d += t+' '&#xA;            else:&#xA;                new_d += d&#xA;&#xA;        new_data.append(new_d)&#xA;&#xA;with open(ofilename, 'w') as ofp:&#xA;    for d in new_data:&#xA;        ofp.write(d+'\n') # how does writelines not support a line separator?&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For those that have a problem with the script above, I think this fixes it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also there seems to be a bug with not writting G90 or G91 whenever it finds it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="35611" LastActivityDate="2022-10-07T17:58:19.613" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20041" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-10-07T20:04:36.817" Score="1" ViewCount="277" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am sorry if I sound too newbie, but to me, it seems like an unsolvable riddle:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have not yet used any other nozzle than the one that comes with my printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would now like to print Fiberlogy Nylon PA12+CF15 black, 1.75 mm on a Kobra Max, and in one YouTube video, somebody says that 260 °C were not hot enough for PA12+CF yet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I guess I have to buy a new nozzle as somebody in a review video said that the Kobra Max nozzle diffuses at over 260 °C.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do I find a fitting nozzle and what do I need to pay attention to?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have googled &amp;quot;Kobra Max full metal hot end&amp;quot; and found this &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.anycubic.com/products/hotend-for-kobra-max&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Hotend for Anycubic Kobra Max&lt;/a&gt; on Anycubic's site, but it is being sent from China and takes 2-3 weeks. I would very much like to find one that is being delivered faster, but I don't know what else to search for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="35280" LastEditorUserId="35280" LastEditDate="2022-10-08T00:28:32.563" LastActivityDate="2022-10-08T00:28:32.563" Title="How do I choose a nozzle for PA12+CF for Kobra Max?" Tags="|filament|nozzle|anycubic-kobra-max|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20042" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-10-08T02:11:06.783" Score="1" ViewCount="369" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just got an Ender 3 S1 Pro and I've done a few prints using fairly stock settings out of Cura. A few minor tweaks to Layer Height and Start temps. I've done some research but can't really find an example of this issue. If someone can give me some insight, that would be very helpful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yMDo8.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Photo of a 3D printed rabbit model with a printing error partway up the model&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yMDo8.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Photo of a 3D printed rabbit model with a printing error partway up the model&quot; title=&quot;Photo of a 3D printed rabbit model with a printing error partway up the model&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SxbEa.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Photo of a calibration cube with a printing error partway up the model&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SxbEa.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Photo of a calibration cube with a printing error partway up the model&quot; title=&quot;Photo of a calibration cube with a printing error partway up the model&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="35616" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2022-10-08T03:07:14.553" LastActivityDate="2022-12-06T02:11:06.183" Title="Single Line in same place on different models" Tags="|creality-ender-3|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20043" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11984" CreationDate="2022-10-08T02:20:04.227" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Note for anyone looking at the answer above, but in 2.1.x:&#xA;The &lt;code&gt;#define&lt;/code&gt; lines have been renamed:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#if PROBE_SELECTED &amp;amp;&amp;amp; !IS_KINEMATIC&#xA;  #define PROBING_MARGIN_LEFT PROBING_MARGIN&#xA;  #define PROBING_MARGIN_RIGHT PROBING_MARGIN&#xA;  #define PROBING_MARGIN_FRONT PROBING_MARGIN&#xA;  #define PROBING_MARGIN_BACK PROBING_MARGIN&#xA;#endif&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="35617" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2022-11-15T20:23:24.823" LastActivityDate="2022-11-15T20:23:24.823" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20044" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20037" CreationDate="2022-10-08T14:12:52.783" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here are some general issues with load bearing 3d prints for this type of usage:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If this is to be used outside, plastic has issues with both water and UV exposure making it brittle.  PETG does better on both of these areas than either PLA or ABS.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Plastic generally does better with compression than with shear or pulling.  In other words, hanging something from plastic might not work well but it might work as a bottom support or in a situation where it is squeezed rather than pulled.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Even if the plastic appears strong enough initially, it may &amp;quot;creep&amp;quot; where the plastic deforms under stress over time.  This applies to all three of compression, shear, and pulling.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;To optimize for strength, print direction is critical.  You want to make sure that the stress will not be trying to shear print layers.  Also (for any material, not just 3d printed plastic), curved shapes are stronger than square corners.  A fillet instead of a corner makes a big difference, but more extreme curves are even better.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you are going to make this out of modular pieces joined with a second material, it is very hard to characterize the strength of the resulting composite, but generally it is stronger than using a single material.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28397" LastActivityDate="2022-10-08T14:12:52.783" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20045" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20042" CreationDate="2022-10-08T14:41:25.073" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If this defect is present in all your printed models, there most likely is something wrong with the mechanics of the printer. Check the rollers, the vertical posts and the screw. Make sure sure everything runs smoothly. Also look out for hitting external object near the printer like e.g. spool holders.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2022-10-08T14:41:25.073" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20047" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-10-08T23:15:06.107" Score="1" ViewCount="213" Body="&lt;p&gt;Could anyone help me diagnose the setting or issue causing the effect in the second picture (indentation in a perfectly flat wall)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The vertical wall should be flat, as shown in the first picture of the STL model.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PQjB4.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;STL showing perfectly flat walls&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PQjB4.png&quot; alt=&quot;stl&quot; title=&quot;STL showing perfectly flat walls&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/35gu3.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;G-code lines show indentation&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/35gu3.png&quot; alt=&quot;G-code&quot; title=&quot;G-code lines show indentation&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vKTmO.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;View from other side&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vKTmO.png&quot; alt=&quot;view from other side&quot; title=&quot;View from other side&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XZ17H.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Indentation going all the way around&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XZ17H.png&quot; alt=&quot;indentation going all the way around&quot; title=&quot;Indentation going all the way around&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="35627" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2022-10-12T18:35:57.700" LastActivityDate="2022-10-12T18:35:57.700" Title="Cura 5.2 beta, flat wall indentation" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|slicing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20049" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-10-09T11:05:20.137" Score="0" ViewCount="1027" Body="&lt;p&gt;I experience some lines on my prints. However, I would not really call them &amp;quot;stringing&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have seen some stringing and it was rather like an undefined spider web.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But the lines that you see in my photo are super straight and fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are they called &amp;quot;stringing&amp;quot; too? And how do I get rid of them?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Specs:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Printer: Kobra Max&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Nozzle: 200 °C&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bed: 50 °C&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Filament: GiantArm PLA&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/W0uJF.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Photo of print bed with faint filament lines that don't look like part of the printed model&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/W0uJF.png&quot; alt=&quot;Photo of print bed with faint filament lines that don't look like part of the printed model &quot; title=&quot;Photo of print bed with faint filament lines that don't look like part of the printed model&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="35280" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2022-10-09T12:34:34.217" LastActivityDate="2022-10-10T18:04:33.097" Title="Some kind of stringing" Tags="|stringing|anycubic-kobra-max|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20050" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20049" CreationDate="2022-10-09T12:21:01.173" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;They're caused by filament being pulled during travel so they qualify as stringing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You need to look at your retraction and heat, speed as well makes a difference. You can try combing and other things or just pull them off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31811" LastActivityDate="2022-10-09T12:21:01.173" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20052" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19937" CreationDate="2022-10-09T16:48:14.640" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Usually this is due to a wiring issue to the thermistor (or, less likely, thermistor itself may be damaged).  Check the integrity of your wires everywhere, especially at the thermistor end (easily damaged when cleaning hotends, changing nozzles, etc.).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An insulating silicone &amp;quot;sock&amp;quot; wouldn't hurt either against real temperature fluctuations, but these seem like phantom, electrically-based fluctuations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="35635" LastEditorUserId="35635" LastEditDate="2022-10-09T16:48:58.420" LastActivityDate="2022-10-09T16:48:58.420" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20053" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20049" CreationDate="2022-10-10T18:04:33.097" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should provide a better picture, i.e. a finished print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Stringing is generally something you don't worry about - adjust your retraction settings a tiny bit to retract more.&#xA;I didn't see what software you used, that will help with where the settings are.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also the plate is very different from the rest of the layers, it could just be a leveling issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="35521" LastActivityDate="2022-10-10T18:04:33.097" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20054" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20047" CreationDate="2022-10-10T18:11:36.143" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm going off limited information here, if you could provide a full view of the model that would help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That being said;&#xA;It looks like there is a feature on the opposite side of the wall &amp;quot;pulling&amp;quot; the lines towards the outside.&#xA;There is no direct setting to change to fix this, it looks like the layer size is limiting how close the printer can mimic the geometry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Try dropping the layer height drastically (ie. .02 to .01) in order to see if the indentation changes it's shape.&#xA;Alternately, change the orientation to non-ideal angles and see what changes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the core, it seems your issue is the actual interpretation of the model by the slicing software and may not have a setting associated with it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="35521" LastActivityDate="2022-10-10T18:11:36.143" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20056" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7468" CreationDate="2022-10-12T13:15:32.577" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You see those 8 holes on the top left of the board? The bottom right one is RX, the one right above it is TX. These 8 pins are collectively known as &amp;quot;AUX1&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is the complete pinout (in the same orientation as the image above).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&#xA;&amp;nbsp;5V&amp;nbsp;•&amp;nbsp;•&amp;nbsp;5V&#xA;GND&amp;nbsp;•&amp;nbsp;•&amp;nbsp;GND&#xA;&amp;nbsp;A3&amp;nbsp;•&amp;nbsp;•&amp;nbsp;TX0&#xA;&amp;nbsp;A4&amp;nbsp;•&amp;nbsp;•&amp;nbsp;RX0&#xA;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="35670" LastActivityDate="2022-10-12T13:15:32.577" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20058" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-10-12T22:23:38.983" Score="0" ViewCount="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Thermal runaway e1 ender 3 nozzle temp steady till it moves then nozzle temp drops and jumps all over then I get the thermal runaway. Also When wiring up to computer, it registers its there but it's unrecognized and won't communicate with it. I'm stuck. I don't have the money to throw at it and not sure how to check each part.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="35676" LastActivityDate="2022-10-12T22:23:38.983" Title="Same issue just started" Tags="|thermal-runaway|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2022-10-13T18:24:37.547" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20060" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20062" CreationDate="2022-10-13T01:53:05.310" Score="3" ViewCount="225" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I am 3D printing on my Ender 3, and I pause the print, the extruder lets out more filament for like 2 seconds. This leaves a glob of dry filament on my print, which the could contact the nozzle tip, causing it to slide the build platform.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have fixed the build platform sliding problem by attaching the included clips. However, another problem remains. Once the glob is made, the filament dropped on top of it gets pushed up, making the print not be even, which ruins the print. I don't think I did anything wrong on the setup, but it might just be that the extruder doesn't stop in time? Did I do anything wrong is is this an issue among all Ender 3s?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I use the Creality Ender 3&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="35678" LastEditorUserId="35678" LastEditDate="2022-10-13T20:35:13.963" LastActivityDate="2022-10-14T13:30:36.653" Title="Extruder oozes filament out and slides build platform on contact with nozzle tip" Tags="|creality-ender-3|extruder-driver|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20061" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20060" CreationDate="2022-10-13T04:34:16.677" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It extrudes after a print to replace any filament that may have drooled out while it was paused.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Quite possibly it is extruding much more than necessary, and ideally, it would clean the nozzle after dong an extrusion like that.  However, the stock ender3 doesn't support automatic nozzle cleaning, so that's not exactly an option.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally, I keep a long tweezers near the printer, and just grab the free space extrusion when it does this and clean the nozzle manually with the tweezers.  It takes a little bit of care and speed to do this without causing other damage, however.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28397" LastActivityDate="2022-10-13T04:34:16.677" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20062" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20060" CreationDate="2022-10-13T08:48:06.667" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had this same issue, it's just how it works.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I solved it by pausing over infill, so when it resumes the blob is not visible. You can grab the filament with something as well, but it takes good timing. If you just pause/resume over infill then it doesn't matter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31811" LastActivityDate="2022-10-13T08:48:06.667" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20063" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20060" CreationDate="2022-10-13T09:29:13.723" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;A hot nozzle will leak out material (called oozing) if the filament is not properly retracted or if pressure has build up in the path from the extruder up to the nozzle (typically in Bowden tube setup extrusion).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://all3dp.com/2/ender-3-change-filament-mid-print/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Pausing a print on an Ender 3&lt;/a&gt; can be performed by two different methods, a manual pause invoked by the menu of the printer display, or, a G-code pause (note that the filament changing G-code is used instead of the dedicated filament pausing G-code &lt;code&gt;M601&lt;/code&gt; which is generally not supported).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In case of the latter option, a G-code (&lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#M600:_Filament_change_pause&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;code&gt;M600&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/a&gt;) can be used to pause and retract, use the same filament to continue, this way it is considered a pause.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A word of advice from All3DP.com's article &amp;quot;&lt;a href=&quot;https://all3dp.com/2/ender-3-change-filament-mid-print/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Ender 3 (V2/Pro/S1): How to Change Filament Mid-print&lt;/a&gt;&amp;quot;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The above script uses the M600 command to function, but this command may not be registered by your printer’s firmware. In our experience, the M600 command was successfully registered by the Ender 3’s original Creality (Marlin-based) firmware – indeed, according to Creality’s GitHub for Ender 3 firmware, the M600 command is programmed. However, if you have an older model of Ender 3, the feature may not have been activated in the firmware.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To prevent the blob you can use the &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/20062/&quot;&gt;answer&lt;/a&gt; provided by &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/31811/kilisi&quot;&gt;Kilisi&lt;/a&gt; of try to use the second method using G-code (if you know when you need to pause, e.g. to &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10587/how-to-pause-a-print-to-insert-something-in-a-cavity-using-ultimaker-cura&quot;&gt;insert something into a print&lt;/a&gt;, your question doesn't state what the reason for the pause is).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2022-10-13T09:29:13.723" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20065" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-10-13T19:13:00.690" Score="1" ViewCount="154" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm having a problem with my prints. Recently when I print rectangular pieces, the piece has an strange curve in one edge, it also has an strange patter in the surface. I have calibrated the bed but it doesn't change anything. What can I do to fix this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a Tronxy cube X5 which I use together with Cura. I print in ABS at 230 °C.The print bed is set to 80 °C. I use a print cooling fan at 20 %. The layer height I set to 0.2 mm, the line width from the 0.4 mm nozzle. The Printing Speed is set to 20 mm/s for walls and 50 mm/s for infill. My retraction is 5 mm/off at 70 mm/s&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IPZlZ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IPZlZ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XQyHG.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XQyHG.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PTZrG.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PTZrG.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/v07cU.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/v07cU.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EqdlF.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EqdlF.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="35506" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2022-10-14T23:09:09.533" LastActivityDate="2022-10-14T23:09:09.533" Title="Why do straight lines on the top appear to be curved?" Tags="|abs|tronxy-x5|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20066" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17870" CreationDate="2022-10-13T19:50:22.757" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Soo I cleaned my hot end completely took it all apart cleaned it inside and out put it back together and I fix my thermal runaway e1 now my printer runs fine I'd say start there&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="35676" LastActivityDate="2022-10-13T19:50:22.757" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20067" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-10-13T23:08:07.313" Score="1" ViewCount="855" Body="&lt;p&gt;Pretty new to 3d Printing. Ultimaker Cura as my Slicer. I have the Ender3 3d Printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a model from Hero Forge I'm trying to print. I added some caltrops on the base but when I go to print the figure, my Ender3 won't finish the caltrops/smaller items and won't finish the figure. It will basically just go through the motions lol.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's an example of it happening on the base of my Figure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the mockup and afterwards is basically where it stops and the filament either just stops coming out or the nozzle moves around the filament that actually does print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UWp3p.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UWp3p.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gIME4.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gIME4.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's an example of something similar happening to Pikachu's ears.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MAR24.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MAR24.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="35689" LastActivityDate="2022-11-14T00:04:30.743" Title="Ender 3 Won't Print Small/Thinner Items" Tags="|creality-ender-3|filament|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20068" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20065" CreationDate="2022-10-14T08:39:45.673" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why straight lines on the top are curve?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Apart from the dimensions, it appears that the top layer is suffering from extreme under extrusion, like there is hardly any filament being deposited.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your last layer started printing at the lower right where it did print okay, but, when progressing to the left you see the starvation of filament flow resulting in sparsely filled in regions that look like curved lines on top of the print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This could be heat creep, entanglement of the filament spool or an extruder problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2022-10-14T13:13:13.297" LastActivityDate="2022-10-14T13:13:13.297" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20070" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20060" CreationDate="2022-10-14T13:30:36.653" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Working pause-and-resume without damaging the quality of your print depends on the printer doing a lot to preserve the primed/ready-to-print state of the printer and avoid heat damage to the part you're printing and to the filament, and on your using &lt;strong&gt;very well-dried filament&lt;/strong&gt;. If any of these requirements aren't met, you're going to have a bad day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In particular, the printer needs to do extra retraction (at least an extra 10 mm, probably more like 20+) to get the filament completely out of the melt zone while paused, and needs to quickly move the nozzle away from the print so as not to melt it. If this is done right, unretracting by the same amount just when starting will get you back to the necesssary nozzle pressure to resume extrusion nearly uninterrupted. Marlin firmware &lt;em&gt;can be configured&lt;/em&gt; to do this right, but I doubt it's done right in the version of the firmware shipped with your printer. You didn't describe what happens in detail when you pressed pause, but it sounds like this isn't happening, so it's likely doing just a &amp;quot;dumb pause&amp;quot; in-place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you really want good pause functionality, you probably need to investigate customizing the firmware. This is not terribly difficult, but also not dead simple, and can go badly wrong if you mess it up. You'd need to weigh these risks against how much you want the functionality.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2022-10-14T13:30:36.653" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20071" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20067" CreationDate="2022-10-14T13:55:47.593" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I suggest you try again with another filament. It looks like your nozzle is either clogging or your filament is slipping. There could be multiple reasons why, but the easiest first troubleshooting strategy is to change filament because it can rule out half the reasons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31811" LastActivityDate="2022-10-14T13:55:47.593" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20072" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20067" CreationDate="2022-10-14T23:12:02.900" Score="2" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Resolution is limited&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You are printing with FDM. FDM is limited in printing detail by its nozzle diameter: you can not print something that is much smaller than your nozzle diameter. A typical nozzle is 0.4 mm in diameter. Your figurine? That is too thin and fragile.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastActivityDate="2022-10-14T23:12:02.900" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20073" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-10-14T23:25:59.420" Score="1" ViewCount="82" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I was printing this part which has this cross-shaped portion in the middle that has supports, it seems that as soon as it started the layer with the supported part, the layer just completely strung everywhere and just went into thin air. If there is any way I would be able to fix this problem, as it seems like it just appeared out of nowhere on an otherwise perfect print, any help would be appreciated. Just so you know I was printing with Overture gray PETG at 235 °C nozzle and 85 °C bed. This was printed on an Ender 3 with a silent motherboard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3OgJh.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Photo of a printed model where the top portion has begun to show stringing&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3OgJh.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Photo of a printed model where the top portion has begun to show stringing&quot; title=&quot;Photo of a printed model where the top portion has begun to show stringing&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="35700" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2022-10-15T02:10:55.987" LastActivityDate="2022-10-15T02:10:55.987" Title="Random layer malfunction" Tags="|creality-ender-3|adhesion|layer-shifting|stringing|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20074" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-10-15T04:10:59.027" Score="4" ViewCount="805" Body="&lt;p&gt;With a friend, we managed to successfully make ABS filament and print with it (even though we sold a couple of spools) now we want to turn our attention to PET. The problem is that it's really hard to extrude properly into filament, so we are wondering how to turn it into PETG (I don't care if it's not possible to do at home, we are creating a brand of filaments, so we need to know how it's done to then attempt to make it (like a list of steps)). If it's not possible to add it, do you know any other polymers that can be mixed to achieve similar properties?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="35702" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2022-10-15T04:17:35.013" LastActivityDate="2022-10-15T04:17:35.013" Title="How I can turn PET plastic into PETG?" Tags="|filament|extrusion|petg|pet|chemistry|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20075" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-10-15T08:10:41.747" Score="0" ViewCount="117" Body="&lt;p&gt;Do anyone knows if Flashforge adventurer 3/4 are supported by Netfabb Premium 2023? I can not find a printer list.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="35704" LastActivityDate="2023-09-24T18:04:49.100" Title="Netfabb Premium 2023 supported printer list" Tags="|desktop-printer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20077" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-10-15T19:18:16.123" Score="4" ViewCount="155" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am printing PETG with my Kobra Max.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Material: ERYONE PETG Filament 1.75 mm&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The recommended print settings are 220-240 °C.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am using a nozzle temperature of 230 °C and bed temperature of 70 °C.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can anybody tell me what these defects are caused by?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2UEBh.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2UEBh.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="35280" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2022-10-15T19:29:33.960" LastActivityDate="2023-01-06T04:41:23.970" Title="What are these defects caused by?" Tags="|petg|anycubic-kobra-max|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20078" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20001" CreationDate="2022-10-15T20:10:14.757" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is likely that your bed is deformed, I have this problem too. The easiest way to test it is to get a metal ruler and put it on its side vertically on the glass bed (at a 45° angle). If you see any light seeping through the middle, then the bed is sagging, but if you see light on the edges, then the bed has a bump. The easiest and cheapest way to fix this is to put post-its (you can use one or more) under the mat on the locations where you see the light.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/y_xCtxcwDrQ?start=0&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="35678" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2022-10-15T21:22:30.003" LastActivityDate="2022-10-15T21:22:30.003" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20079" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20086" CreationDate="2022-10-15T20:11:39.957" Score="2" ViewCount="3481" Body="&lt;p&gt;I upgraded my Ender 3 V2 with a BIQU H2 hot end and extruder head and a BLTouch probe. I updated the firmware from Ender website using &lt;code&gt;Ender-3 V2_32bit_4.2.2_BLTouch_Marlin-2.0.1 - V1.1.1.bin&lt;/code&gt;. All hardware seems to work flawlessly, incl. all axis movements, extruder movements, heating, fans controlling,...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I don't know how to really proceed with changes to extruder settings. I found no YouTube videos or internet articles, particularly about &amp;quot;Ender 3 V2&amp;quot; and &amp;quot;BIQU H2&amp;quot; and what I found is not compatible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From what I gathered, I need to change the speed ratio of extrusion and the gear ratio of extrusion. But I don't know how to set it on Ender 3 V2. I tried to configure the gear ratio. There's a nice YT manual for Ender 3 V2, however for the old extruder, so I couldn't measure the extruded filament beyond the extruder. I made a line 100 mm above the extruder with a marker and set the extrusion to +100. I got something like &lt;em&gt;10 mm of snail-pace slow extrusion&lt;/em&gt;. So I went to the extruder's gear ratio and tried to raise it, but the value should be roughly &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$100 / 10 * 93 = 930$&lt;/span&gt; (93 was the default and current value). However, the adjustment goes only to 186, and with that, I get a little bit less than 20 mm of extrusion. And I also suspect that the extruder's speed is about 7 times smaller (1:7 gear ratio) than what it is supposed to be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, could you advise or direct me to materials that explain how to set BIQU H2 on Ender 3 V2? Is there anything else I have to set, apart from extruder speed and gear ratio? Some tutorials mentioned about stepper motor voltage if I remember correctly, but again, that cannot be set in the menu. I'm fine with settings over G-code, as long as I have some clear instructions on what actually to set.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I marked Oscar's post as an answer, though to me it tells only part of the story. But helped to clarify some stuff. Be careful and study the matter yourself, however, you should come to this conclusion and those steps for Ender 3 V2 and BIQU H2, particularly for setting the extruder motor current.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Disclaimer: Those were my steps and I do not take any responsibility for anything if you follow them. Check everything yourself and advice in the comments below, if anything doesn't look right.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Check you have TMC2208 - you should have the large letter &lt;strong&gt;A&lt;/strong&gt; written on your card reader&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Check your BIQU H2 stepper motor nominal voltage is 800 mA in the attached manual&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Check the resistors at the stepper motor (marked &lt;strong&gt;E&lt;/strong&gt;) on your main board are R150 (150 mΩ)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If all above is true, you should get Vref = 1.05. Based on&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$\frac{0.8}{\sqrt{2}} = {\frac{325mV}{150mΩ+20mΩ}*\frac{1}{\sqrt{2}}*\frac{V_{ref}}{2.5V}}$&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I separated voltage:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$V_{ref} = \frac{0.8A/\sqrt{2}}{325mV/((150mΩ+20mΩ)*\sqrt{2}*2.5)} = \frac{(150mΩ+20mΩ) * 2.5 * 0.8A}{325mV} = 1.046V$&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol start=&quot;5&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Measure your current Vref with positive contact on the potentiometer and negative on the card reader cover, using an appropriate scale on your Voltmeter, i.e. up to 20V DC. You should get something like 1.4 V, if you have the default factory setting. One hint: I put a piece of insulation tape on the cooler next to the potentiometer in order to avoid a short circuit in case the cooler is connected to the negative body - it's easy to touch it with a screwdriver. Remove it after the correct voltage is set. Or use a plastic or ceramic screwdriver.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Turn slightly the potentiometer anti-clockwise, about 1/5 of the circle for start, and measure the voltage again, then do a fine adjustment, measure again, etc., until you get desired value. I could set it from 0.03 to 1.02, meaning that I set 780 mA, slightly below the nominal voltage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hdeJZ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Photo of Creality v4.2.2 motherboard with parts marked for reference&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hdeJZ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Photo of Creality v4.2.2 motherboard with parts marked for reference&quot; title=&quot;Photo of Creality v4.2.2 motherboard with parts marked for reference&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="35708" LastEditorUserId="35708" LastEditDate="2022-10-23T10:51:31.520" LastActivityDate="2022-10-23T10:51:31.520" Title="Ender 3 V2 calibration for BIQU H2" Tags="|creality-ender-3|calibration|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20082" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20087" CreationDate="2022-10-17T02:20:31.737" Score="2" ViewCount="325" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was trying to fasten the top screw on the power supply of my Ender 3, but it won't fasten. So, I took the screw out and found something like a little yellow ring stuck onto it. I think it broke because I may have over fastened it, but I didn't tighten too much... Is this the &amp;quot;thread&amp;quot; of the hole? Is it supposed to be so fragile?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YxwMS.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YxwMS.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Img of ring&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="35678" LastEditorUserId="35678" LastEditDate="2022-10-17T20:34:37.633" LastActivityDate="2022-10-17T20:34:37.633" Title="Ender 3 power supply top screw isn't tightening" Tags="|creality-ender-3|power-supply|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20083" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-10-17T02:32:49.967" Score="2" ViewCount="2316" Body="&lt;p&gt;What are the ways that G-code can be sent to a Bambu Labs X1/X1C?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="33672" LastEditorUserId="4922" LastEditDate="2022-10-17T14:45:04.087" LastActivityDate="2022-10-17T14:45:04.087" Title="How can I send G-code to a Bambu Labs X1/X1C?" Tags="|g-code|bambu|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20084" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-10-17T16:20:14.697" Score="2" ViewCount="159" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to build my own 3D-printer and I'm considering using a RAMPS 1.4 shield on an Arduino Mega 2560 as the controller. I could save $30-40 by using a clone Arduino Mega (not the official one) that uses the ATMega 256. Would the RAMPS 1.4 still work with this board?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31609" LastActivityDate="2022-11-16T19:08:26.143" Title="Can I use a Arduino Mega Clone with a RAMPS 1.4 shield?" Tags="|diy-3d-printer|ramps-1.4|arduino-mega-2650|arduino|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20085" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20084" CreationDate="2022-10-17T18:20:43.680" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes a clone of the Arduino Mega will work with a RAMPS 1.4 shield. I've used these combinations in the past.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, it is advised to buy a dedicated printer controller board, preferably a 32-bit micro processor board, these have more memory so you will less likely run into too less memory for specific functions of the printer firmware (unless you'll be using Klipper, but that requires a RaspberyyPi, so not a cheap solution).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2022-10-17T18:20:43.680" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20086" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20079" CreationDate="2022-10-17T18:36:31.493" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Ender you have uses the TFT display. This display operates its own firmware, so when you update the controller board, you only update the printer function not the GUI interface. It is the interface that limits the input you require for setting the correct E-steps per millimeter as these are limited in the region of the stock extruder; it has no anticipation for using a much larger value like you need when using a large gear ratio extruder. When the correct steps per milliliter are set, you do not need to worry about the speed other than that you cannot use very high retraction speeds with high gear ratio extruders, if too fast it will skip steps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Question &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/18876/&quot;&gt;Adjust E-step on Ender 3&lt;/a&gt; already &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/18878/&quot;&gt;explains&lt;/a&gt; how you set the correct value for the E-steps, it does not require the display to set this. You do require either a connection over USB to a computer/laptop or an SD-card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do note that the stepper you use on the direct extruder is different from the one installed stock as extruder motor, the reference voltage must be set manually using a multimeter and small screwdriver, your driver's don't allow to adjust through firmware or G-code. This stepper should be limited to 0.8 A. You need to calculate which Vref you need for your driver (you probably have TMC2208 stand alone drivers) and adjust the potentiometer to measure the calculated Vref. You do not measure current directly, this is done through measuring the Vref (this is a measure for the current). There are many sources to be found to set this Vref, e.g. &lt;a href=&quot;https://all3dp.com/2/vref-calculator-tmc2209-tmc2208-a4988/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this one&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2022-10-18T10:36:17.440" LastActivityDate="2022-10-18T10:36:17.440" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20087" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20082" CreationDate="2022-10-17T20:07:03.730" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sounds like you've stripped the thread by overtorquing the fastener.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your options are to use a slightly larger fastener and drill/tap the larger hole for that bigger thread.  And don't confuse the screws next time you open this connector.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The little yellow ring might be a retainer so the screw is held &lt;em&gt;captive&lt;/em&gt; in the part, or it could be a load spreading washer, or a soft area to soak up vibration and prevent buzzing/rattling and resonance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12956" LastActivityDate="2022-10-17T20:07:03.730" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20088" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20089" CreationDate="2022-10-18T16:57:03.020" Score="2" ViewCount="3082" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently ran into some issues where my Mac (macOS 12.6) was no longer recognizing the USB drive that came with my Elegoo Mars 3 Pro. The printer also wouldn't recognize the drive, so I used Disk Utility to reformat the drive to MS-DOS (FAT). However, after doing this, the printer still would not recognize the drive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After some web searching, I found that the drive needs to be formatted using a Master Boot Record scheme, but Disk Utility was not displaying this option when formatting a drive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I format a USB drive for an Elegoo Mars using macOS?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="35634" LastActivityDate="2022-10-18T21:33:32.127" Title="Elegoo Mars 3 Pro USB drive formatting?" Tags="|usb|elegoo-mars|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20089" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20088" CreationDate="2022-10-18T16:57:03.020" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Disk Utility can be used to format the drive, but first, you'll need to change the view settings to enable the Scheme options when erasing the drive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In Disk Utility, from the View menu, select &lt;strong&gt;Show All Devices&lt;/strong&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TcRf8.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Screenshot of Disk Utility's View menu with 'Show All Devices' selected&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TcRf8.png&quot; alt=&quot;Screenshot of Disk Utility's View menu with 'Show All Devices' selected&quot; title=&quot;Screenshot of Disk Utility's View menu with 'Show All Devices' selected&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next, you'll need to select the parent device on the left-hand pane, and &lt;strong&gt;not&lt;/strong&gt; the volume:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0N9B1.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Screenshot in Disk Utility with the device selected not the volume&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0N9B1.png&quot; alt=&quot;Screenshot in Disk Utility with the device selected not the volume&quot; title=&quot;Screenshot in Disk Utility with the device selected not the volume&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, after using the &lt;strong&gt;Erase&lt;/strong&gt; button in the top bar of the window, you'll now have the option to select the scheme:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0RCU8.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Screenshot of the dialog box showing the erase options&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0RCU8.png&quot; alt=&quot;Screenshot of the dialog box showing the erase options&quot; title=&quot;Screenshot of the dialog box showing the erase options&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Erase the drive using the &lt;strong&gt;MS-DOS (FAT)&lt;/strong&gt; format and &lt;strong&gt;Master Boot Record&lt;/strong&gt; scheme. The name of the drive likely doesn't matter. Using these settings, I was able to copy some files back to the newly-erased drive and the printer immediately found the files and was able to begin printing again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="35634" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2022-10-18T21:33:32.127" LastActivityDate="2022-10-18T21:33:32.127" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20091" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-10-19T07:58:03.140" Score="1" ViewCount="93" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found out that my ancient printer from 2015 (Sharebot NG) stutters when Z is moved with X and Y simultaneously. The printer is one of those where the print head is fixed at the top of the build volume and moves in XY while the plate travels down Z layer by layer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The printer was originally provided with a Slic3r profile but I want to switch to Cura.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I noticed that during long travel movements, typically the first one where the print head is positioned at the starting point of the print, the printer vibrates a lot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the print requires the head to travel long distances, these vibrations eventually shift the plate or tip the print if it's not adequatelly supported, resulting in a failed print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By comparing the G-Codes from Slic3r and Cura I found that Slic3r moves XY first and then Z separately while Cura does it in a single movement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Slic3r:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;  G1 X45 Y50&#xA;  G1 Z0.3&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cura:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;  G0 X45 Y50 Z0.3&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Is there a way to tell Cura NOT to move the Z axis with X and Y?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also tried to understand why the vibration happens by playing with the feed rate and I suspect it's a limitation caused by the firmware or the control board, as it happens even at very low speeds therefore I don't think it's due to insufficient electric current.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="35741" LastActivityDate="2022-10-19T07:58:03.140" Title="Ultimaker CURA moves XYZ at once during travel, how to avoid this?" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|g-code|slic3r|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20092" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20094" CreationDate="2022-10-19T14:03:52.960" Score="2" ViewCount="82" Body="&lt;p&gt;I feel this is a relatively simple thing, but I am having some difficulty. The model is simple. It is 2 x 127 x 28 x π mm. It has one corrugated side and all others flat. The non-flat side has a flat area for text.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Later deformed into a cylinder, hence pi (π))&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem I'm having in Blender is a &lt;em&gt;lot&lt;/em&gt; of non-manifold vertices after the union of the text into that area.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it possible to have the text and widget as two different meshes touching and come out as one object &lt;em&gt;in the print&lt;/em&gt;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Use another program besides Blender?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Manually editing the mesh... seems excessively time consuming.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="35576" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2022-11-06T11:48:15.697" LastActivityDate="2022-11-06T11:48:15.697" Title="How can I incorporate text in my model?" Tags="|3d-models|blender|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20093" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20102" CreationDate="2022-10-19T18:37:35.863" Score="3" ViewCount="317" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was running my Ender 3 just fine with good first-layer adhesion/everything else but my setup changed after my Pi SD card got corrupted so I had to re-install and reconfigure my bed leveling via OctoPrint. After this my first layer started to look like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/apO4n.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Image of 3D print first layer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/apO4n.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Image of 3D print first layer&quot; title=&quot;Image of 3D print first layer&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;* this is the bottom of the completed print&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;IIRC I changed the following (and have tried undoing it but to no avail):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Increased extruder tension (since it was skipping while retracting)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lowered z-probe offset (since re-calibrating it was too high)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is with PLA&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Running a modified Ender3 w/&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;BL Touch&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Micro Swiss Direct Drive Extruder for Creality CR-10 / Ender 3 Printers&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;PEI Plate&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;BIGTREETECH SKR Mini E3 V1.2 Control Board w/ Marlin dev built 20210609&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sliced on Cura 4.11.0&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Printing Temp: 210.0 °C&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bed Temp: 60 °C&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;First Layer printing speed: 20.0 mm/s&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;First layer acceleration: 500.0 mm/s^2&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;No first-layer fan (or any cooling at any point)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've tried:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Increasing initial Z-offset; this doesn't work since it will affect my bed adhesion to the point the print will pop off&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Adjusting extrusion gear tension; will start skipping on retraction/no-luck&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After the first couple of imperfect layers get ironed over, the upper layers will not have any extrusion problems, or whatever this is, and are basically fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="35752" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2022-10-19T21:27:53.407" LastActivityDate="2022-11-07T02:01:42.807" Title="Ender 3 first layer inconsistent layer lines" Tags="|creality-ender-3|marlin|ultimaker-cura|troubleshooting|bltouch|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20094" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20092" CreationDate="2022-10-19T21:34:28.107" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;You have a number of options with respect to adding text to a shape. Top of the list would be the easy-to-use Tinkercad, but it may be too limiting for your purposes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More complex, and coming in next would be the free hobbyist version of Fusion 360. In very many ways, a tougher program to learn, but YouTube tutorials may get you started on your specific objective.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My favorite would be to learn the wonders of OpenSCAD, a text based descriptor program that uses parametric modeling to create 3D objects.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's not impossible to create non-manifold with the above three programs, but very much easier to create a working model.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your final objective is a cylinder, it might be good to start with the desired shape and apply the text in the program of your choice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastActivityDate="2022-10-19T21:34:28.107" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20095" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-10-20T13:03:34.970" Score="2" ViewCount="203" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can someone shed some light in why FDM (Fuse Deposition Modelling) is not possible with metals?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has anyone attempted any experiments with it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="35757" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2022-10-21T15:39:51.320" LastActivityDate="2022-10-21T17:23:19.003" Title="FDM metal printing - is it possible?" Tags="|fdm|metal-printing|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20096" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20095" CreationDate="2022-10-20T14:40:09.683" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;For many metals you would need to run the hotend around 1000 °C.  Aluminum melts at a lower temperature but needs to be in an inert atmosphere, such as argon.  Solder melts at the right temperature, but tends to stick to most metal nozzles.  It would start dissolving a brass nozzle thus enlarging the nozzle opening.  Lockheed has a titanium alloy printer that melts powder with a laser.  I would assume they need an inert atmosphere since titanium reacts with nitrogen as well as oxygen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15075" LastActivityDate="2022-10-20T14:40:09.683" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20097" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20095" CreationDate="2022-10-20T15:52:31.977" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, it is possible and it's done all the time. It's more commonly known as welding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We did TIG welding on our Hyrel printers back in 2017.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/azFY-IqDB_0?start=0&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: I work for Hyrel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4922" LastEditorUserId="4922" LastEditDate="2022-10-21T15:48:05.100" LastActivityDate="2022-10-21T15:48:05.100" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20099" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-10-20T17:26:06.080" Score="3" ViewCount="59" Body="&lt;p&gt;From my understanding of FFF 3D printing, the glass state is usually used to heat the bed for better first layer adhesion. Other than that, does the extruder keep ex:PLA in a glass state for any reason?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is the transition of the filament straight from solid to liquid for extrusion without any real regard for the glass state?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="35758" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2022-11-21T07:24:22.393" LastActivityDate="2022-11-21T13:14:45.950" Title="Is a thermoplastic's glass state relevant for 3D printing extrusion?" Tags="|creality-ender-3|filament|extruder|3d-design|hotend|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20100" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-10-20T19:03:23.287" Score="2" ViewCount="193" Body="&lt;p&gt;I apologize first if this is a super basic question to most, I am currently a computer science student in my last semester before an Associate's degree with little knowledge of the command line and Python download environments. I also primarily work with Java but have an internship using Python.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have written a program that is able to take a G-code file and convert it into an SBP file with a Python script through a click of a button within a GUI. I have now been tasked with taking in an STL file and using a slicer (Cura) to convert that file into G-code.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am currently trying to get the CuraEngine (without Cura) to work &lt;strong&gt;via&lt;/strong&gt; the command line in order to use the subprocess library within Python to do all of these conversions within my personal GUI. However, the wiki on downloading CuraEngine isn't helping much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have been able to achieve installing and building the CuraEngine release, but cannot activate the Conan run environment through the walkthrough of the &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/Ultimaker/CuraEngine/wiki/Building-CuraEngine-From-Source&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;wiki&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am getting the error that the pathway (&lt;code&gt;\build\generators\conanrun.sh&lt;/code&gt;) is not a recognized internal/external command, operable program, or batch file. When looking up the files within the generators folder, the &lt;code&gt;conanrun&lt;/code&gt; file is actually an extension of .bat (&lt;code&gt;conanrun.bat&lt;/code&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So a few questions I have:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What do I do to get the CuraEngine running on the command line at this point?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Would it be easier to just download/run the entire Cura application through the source? I've noticed a lot of others have done that, but I don't want the GUI that goes along with it. I've also had trouble downloading the Cura application from the command line, with &lt;code&gt;ERROR: pynest2d/5.3.0-alpha+testing_0@ultimaker/testing: Error in generate() method&lt;/code&gt; showing up in the install.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;As an extension of the above question, it seems the build instructions for CuraEngine have had a lot of complaints from others. As a result, is there a better way to get a slicer engine to work through a self-made GUI?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, I did post this question on StackOverflow.com and community.ultimaker.com as well, in case you run into it there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="35760" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2022-10-20T22:23:54.770" LastActivityDate="2024-03-16T19:03:30.427" Title="Activating Conan run environment and running CuraEngine from command line" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|troubleshooting|slicing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20101" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20095" CreationDate="2022-10-20T21:54:47.560" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://all3dp.com/1/fdm-metal-3d-printing-makerbot/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;It is completely possible,&lt;/a&gt; there are 3d FDM printers that could do that with the Ultrafuse 316L. You could print filament that has metal in it, you just need a special nozzle for that. The pure metal-printing printers use an industrial heater/extruder that can reach up to 230 °C.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="35678" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2022-10-20T22:20:40.187" LastActivityDate="2022-10-20T22:20:40.187" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20102" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20093" CreationDate="2022-10-21T01:21:48.430" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Solved, the nozzle was set too low and was causing pressure buildup at certain points since the PEI plate wasn't perfectly flat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After raising it and swapping for a glass bed I was able to stop this behavior.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Note:&lt;/strong&gt; While this helped this issue a little bit, it was also making adhesion really poor on faster prints. A better fix I found was that I recently swapped filament spools, it looks like the average spool thickness was greater than the previous one, and after reducing the flow 5 %. I was able to eliminate this problem entirely, thanks to the question &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/q/5372/&quot;&gt;What is causing &amp;#39;droplets&amp;#39; on first layer?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="35752" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2022-11-07T02:01:42.807" LastActivityDate="2022-11-07T02:01:42.807" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20103" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20099" CreationDate="2022-10-21T08:45:29.290" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The transition from solid to liquid is the important part.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bed is heated for adhesion and kept heated for the same reason, but the extruder is a lot hotter and just performs the task of solid to liquid, the fans and ambient temperature cool it to solid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once a layer is solid it will heat up again when the next layer goes on it both from heat radiating from the nozzle and the liquid plastic going on it. This should give better layer adhesion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31811" LastActivityDate="2022-10-21T08:45:29.290" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20104" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20095" CreationDate="2022-10-21T08:59:34.857" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have tried some stuff. It depends what problem you're trying to solve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can get metal infused filaments, both aluminium and copper infused filaments print fine. But since there's plastic as well you don't get the nice properties like conductivity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you just want some of the properties then electrolysis might be the better choice of technology.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want robust parts then as far as I know the traditional methods are the best as the metals properties are constant or controlled.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Something like cnc welding layers on layers wouldn't make sense in terms of cost and predictability I would think. You'd need too much heat and it's unlikely to be as strong as traditional metal forming. It has been used for a long time to spot weld, but not build up layers as far as I know.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31811" LastEditorUserId="31811" LastEditDate="2022-10-21T09:05:48.770" LastActivityDate="2022-10-21T09:05:48.770" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20105" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20108" CreationDate="2022-10-21T09:08:51.197" Score="1" ViewCount="2779" Body="&lt;p&gt;The seams on my print are much larger than they were a few months ago and I'm not sure what's going on or how to fix it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pic with seams random:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/X10pB.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/X10pB.png&quot; alt=&quot;https://i.imgur.com/PvmpsWb.png&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With aligned seams:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EN0hf.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EN0hf.png&quot; alt=&quot;https://i.imgur.com/1GIDDz9.png&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm using the 0.2 mm QUALITY profile with the following adjustments:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;200 °C temp&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Perimeters lower speed (25 mm/s inner, 15 mm/s outer; prevents small overhang warping, faster speeds don't really ease the issue anyway)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;First layer speed slow (10 mm/s)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Retraction Z lift 0.2 mm (default 0.4 mm; helps stringing)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Using Jessie PLA (Printed solid)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Filament is dry, fresh out the dehydrator&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://pastebin.com/fZhZXRAP&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;My full slicer settings found here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've tried lowering the retraction speed, increasing it, increasing the detraction speed to 2x, raising temp, and calibration of the linear advance according to the calibration test print on Prusa's website.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I can do to make gaps smaller?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="34796" LastEditorUserId="34796" LastEditDate="2022-10-22T04:23:18.087" LastActivityDate="2022-10-22T04:32:54.007" Title="Seams of print are underextruded causing large pits/gaps? (Prusa Mk3+, Prusa Slicer)" Tags="|prusa-i3|underextrusion|prusaslicer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20106" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20095" CreationDate="2022-10-21T15:28:27.633" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;First of all, it is possible in multiple ways:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Computer-controlled-Welding&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The most akin to FDM is using an automated MIG-welder, building up weld beads upon weld beads using an arc to melt the metal and keeping the puddle in position by carefully low speeds and coordinated movements. With a little ingenuity, even a TIG could be used, if you manage to feed the filler rod.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Converting a MIG is possible even on a hobbyist scale, as this &lt;a href=&quot;https://hackaday.com/2021/06/27/turning-a-mig-welder-into-a-metal-3d-printer/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;hackaday 2021&lt;/a&gt; article shows. However, research into something like that is in research since &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprint.com/226829/researchers-develop-low-cost-metal-3d-printer/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;at least 2018&lt;/a&gt;, and Hyrel experimented with a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=azFY-IqDB_0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;TIG setup&lt;/a&gt; in 2017.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The items created this way have a rather rough surface, yet they do have upsides: The created metal is easily machineable and can reduce a lot of waste. It might not beat machining from bar stock at the moment, but it can beat steel casting in price, though not in quality. However, automated welding also has the chance to have defects. In some applications, it is used industrially, for example, to manufacture specialized stock for machining with minimal waste or from a special material.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Oh, and it is even rather simple to repurpose 3D welding robots to 3D Weld a gap closed bead to bead, akin to how you'd 3D print in FDM.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://all3dp.com/2/3d-printer-metal-filament-for-real-metal-parts/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Metal Filaments&lt;/a&gt;: BMD&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are filaments that contain about &lt;strong&gt;80%&lt;/strong&gt; of metal powder. These &lt;strong&gt;highly abrasive&lt;/strong&gt; filaments contain a binder that is thermoplastic. You can print on a somewhat modified machine with those. That's called BMD - Bound Metal Deposition. This method is industrial by 2022, and often post-processes the part to remove the binder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Usually, this post-processing is done in a kiln or sintering oven, melting or cross bonding the metal between layers more than with the plastic binder, and simultaneously at times burning out the binder. This technique exist since at least 2018, as &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/6623/8884&quot;&gt;this answer shows&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2022-10-21T17:23:19.003" LastActivityDate="2022-10-21T17:23:19.003" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20108" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20105" CreationDate="2022-10-22T04:32:54.007" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was able to more or less solve it by using the &amp;quot;extra length on restart&amp;quot; property set to 0.1 mm. Sort of &amp;quot;primes&amp;quot; the filament after a retraction by moving it forward a bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To lesser effect I reduced retraction distance from 0.8 to 0.5, lowered retraction speed from 35 to 10, and upped detraction speed from 35 to 50.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rV8j2.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rV8j2.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Left object is with new settings, right object is original issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="34796" LastActivityDate="2022-10-22T04:32:54.007" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20109" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-10-22T18:31:18.953" Score="0" ViewCount="55" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've just installed a new 12 V hotend for my Prusa i3 MK8. So, now the new hotend can't achieve temperatures above 190-200 °C and it takes about 30 minutes to achieve 200 °C. The thermistor and heating element both touch the hotend securely. The heating element gets 12 V all the time. PID changes don't seem to affect anything. Can it be fixed or do I have to change the hotend?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="34776" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2022-10-22T20:34:16.193" LastActivityDate="2022-10-22T20:34:16.193" Title="Prusa i3 MK8 can't achieve required temperature" Tags="|prusa-i3|hotend|temperature|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20111" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18860" CreationDate="2022-10-23T12:32:21.133" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;you'll need a UPS with EMI filter. I had this same issue and I opt to a regular desktop UPS and the problem was still there. So, I connected a EMI filter and it worked.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="35791" LastActivityDate="2022-10-23T12:32:21.133" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20112" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6421" CreationDate="2022-10-23T16:02:03.393" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had the same issue with an Ender 3.&#xA;The threaded rod was not lubricated enough. Adding some lithium grease, applying it evenly, and moving the Z-axis from top to bottom multiple times fixed the issue.&#xA;I had to recalibrate the Z-offset after that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="35797" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2022-10-23T19:22:05.813" LastActivityDate="2022-10-23T19:22:05.813" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20113" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20100" CreationDate="2022-10-23T17:31:23.943" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;As far as I can tell, &lt;code&gt;conanrun.sh&lt;/code&gt; is something you should not have to do. Just run the &lt;code&gt;CuraEngine&lt;/code&gt; binary directly. If that doesn't work, update your question with what went wrong and I can expand on this answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To get into the nitty details, it appears the point of &lt;code&gt;conanrun.sh&lt;/code&gt; is to setup library paths to find the libraries Conan (a really awful, unconventional C++ Language Package Manager the Ultimaker folks have adopted) built itself and linked CuraEngine against, since they're not present in system-wide paths. However at least on Windows, I would expect any needed DLLs to be automatically found in the same directory as the executable, and on Linux, etc., sourcing a script to override library paths like this will &lt;em&gt;break anything else run from the same shell environment&lt;/em&gt; (!!) - it's &lt;strong&gt;not&lt;/strong&gt; the right thing to do. Unfortunately, Conan has made it really difficult to build CuraEngine right (see my bug report &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/Ultimaker/Cura/issues/12941&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;12941&lt;/a&gt;) but on Windows it's probably not that bad.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2022-10-23T17:31:23.943" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20114" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-10-23T17:33:23.357" Score="0" ViewCount="41" Body="&lt;p&gt;It has been three weeks since I first tried to solve this problem. &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PlbR6.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Here's&lt;/a&gt; the video. I cleaned the hotend yesterday, as it was fully clogged and full of plastic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My heatsink seems to be attached good. I didn't touch it even once since I bought my Ender 3 Pro.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="35794" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2022-10-24T13:19:37.130" LastActivityDate="2022-10-24T13:19:37.130" Title="Green residues are present on all my prints, and the adhesion is pretty bad" Tags="|print-quality|troubleshooting|print-material|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20116" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-10-23T22:21:21.297" Score="1" ViewCount="426" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently purchased an Ender 3 S1 Plus. Printed off the benchy, went great, tried a more complex print with a 0.16 mm height, and it looks wonderful. However, when I tried to print something a bit taller (~200 mm), the nozzle assembly (I believe the fan is the culprit) started catching on the print and in one instance got stuck and burned in a small divot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've leveled the X-gantry to the bed and checked the assembly angle. It still appears to be off, and I'm wondering if I should insert a shim where it screws in, to fix the angle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IIyGC.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Photo of nozzle assembly at an angle compared to the bed&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IIyGC.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Photo of nozzle assembly at an angle compared to the bed&quot; title=&quot;Photo of nozzle assembly at an angle compared to the bed&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wU6zH.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wU6zH.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Photo of a partial print on a ender 3 s1 plus printer&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="35815" LastEditorUserId="36802" LastEditDate="2023-12-01T12:42:17.340" LastActivityDate="2023-12-01T12:42:17.340" Title="Can inserting a shim fix a misaligned nozzle assembly on an Ender 3 S1 Plus?" Tags="|creality-ender-3|diy-3d-printer|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20120" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-10-24T13:56:39.537" Score="0" ViewCount="17" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am trying to do 48 4 mm wide cylinders at a time 5-25 mm apart and after the first few layers are put down they all get caught up together and the machine goes around collecting them all into 1 giant ball of filament.  Any ideas?  I set the nozzle temperature to 215 °C and the platform to 65 °C.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="35818" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2022-10-25T16:41:10.590" LastActivityDate="2022-10-25T16:41:10.590" Title="FlashForge Creator Pro 3 - tlumping together" Tags="|flashforge-creator|flashforge|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20121" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-10-24T14:17:57.570" Score="0" ViewCount="93" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a simple browser based interface that uses php's exec function to run CuraEngine on an stl file that a client uploads. It is based on the source code provided by Jesse Campbell in his 3dpartprice.com site.  I am looking for a way to make a progress bar of the slicing process. Does CuraEngine output data about the slice progress? The Cura app with a GUI has a progress bar that updates while the model is being sliced. What data is driving this progress bar? Any suggestions of different approaches to get a progress bar from CuraEngine's slicing process?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="35346" LastActivityDate="2022-12-27T22:04:00.857" Title="Cura UI slice progress bar read data from CuraEngine" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20122" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20123" CreationDate="2022-10-25T04:10:45.107" Score="4" ViewCount="524" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Creality LD-006 resin printer and my FEP breaks very often. When I'm printing I heard a hard &amp;quot;tac¨&amp;quot; (it's because the cured resin is taking of the FEP when the printing bed goes up).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm using a Creality standard resin white with 2.7 exposure time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is how my FEP breaks (I replaced the FEP (it was original) and made maybe 2 or 3 prints and it broke).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/S1Wq2.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Broken FEP&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/S1Wq2.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Broken FEP&quot; title=&quot;Broken FEP&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could it be that I'm printing a lot of small pieces at once?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a smaller printer (Creality Halot-One) and I made more prints and I never have this type of problem. Maybe I can't print small pieces in a big printer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="35829" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2022-10-27T16:06:46.547" LastActivityDate="2022-10-27T16:06:46.547" Title="How to solve broken FEP" Tags="|troubleshooting|resin|repair|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20123" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20122" CreationDate="2022-10-25T10:46:54.907" Score="4" Body="&lt;h2&gt;FEPs are consumables&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once an FEP film on the foil has developed cracking, it's a lost cause and has to be replaced in due time - repair to pre-damage conditions is impossible even if you manufacture them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can try to avoid the affected areas and eek a few more prints out of the film, but the damage will spread and make the film unusable in the longer term.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Damage to FEP can occur due to bad resin&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your resin contains &lt;em&gt;any&lt;/em&gt; chunks due to print failure, those can result in damage of the FEP.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Bad Placement and high speed can damage FEPS&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another reason can be too pointed pressure, which happens for example if the only spot is pulling up very high, and then suddenly releases.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The position of the printed objects can be as much the factor in this case as the size or geometry of the release area.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The more controllable factors that play into this are the lifting speed and height of the bed. It takes some non-zero amount of time for the film to release the model. During this time the film adheres to the model, and can be simulated as a spring. The force of a spring is dependent on a constant and its elongation: &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$F=k \times \Delta d(t) $&lt;/span&gt;. Our foil would have a variable factor &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$k$&lt;/span&gt;, dependent on the coordinate in the vat. However, for us, the elongation at the moment t &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$\Delta d(t)$&lt;/span&gt; is relevant. By lifting faster and higher, the film is experiencing more elongation (stretch) and a sharper release from the model happens. Higher stress means damage to the film.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2022-10-26T00:08:13.790" LastActivityDate="2022-10-26T00:08:13.790" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20124" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-10-25T14:54:20.853" Score="2" ViewCount="892" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an Ender 3 Pro modded with the Hero Me Gen 6 air ducts, installed a Creality 4.2.7 mainboard, and updated Marlin firmware to the latest for now 2.1.1 version. I'm printing with PLA only.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It was printing well enough. The nozzle started to wear down so I replaced the nozzle (standard brass one) but also upgraded the heatbreak to a bi-metal one (not all-metal, there is still a plastic tube inside the heatbreak) and a heatblock (standard goldish Creality block). And since that moment, the printer fails to print with good quality starting the second layer&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I tried:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;recalibrated it with a gauge of 0.2 mm and the first layer is perfect (did not know that could be a thing :))&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;updated firmware&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;tried to tighten screws (as it is recommended &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/5503/has-anyone-encountered-this-type-of-strange-print-patterns&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;adjusted Z-axis steps/mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;another filament&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can't figure out what causes that thing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NpYMj.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Photo of the first two layers of a printed model; the second layer looking very different&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NpYMj.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Photo of the first two layers of a printed model; the second layer looking very different&quot; title=&quot;Photo of the first two layers of a printed model; the second layer looking very different&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NPZVO.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Upclose photo of the printed model showing the difference in the two layers&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NPZVO.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Upclose photo of the printed model showing the difference in the two layers&quot; title=&quot;Upclose photo of the printed model showing the difference in the two layers&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SKahg.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Zoomed in photo of the printed model showing the detailed differences in the two layers&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SKahg.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Zoomed in photo of the printed model showing the detailed differences in the two layers&quot; title=&quot;Zoomed in photo of the printed model showing the detailed differences in the two layers&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;edited 2022-10-25 23:41&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think it is overextrusion. I tried reprinting object. The first layer was perfect, but second was poor again. There was no difference with cooling or without, no difference printing slower. But flow rate did matter:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;100% flow rate&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;changed to 85% flow rate&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;changed to 75% flow rate&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;changed to 100% flow rate&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;changed to 75% flow rate&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maybe it is prusa slicer doing its thing. I will try Cura. The only thing that bothers me is that diagonal scratch - that is from the nozzle which makes me think it is too low for the second layer&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/j0wWW.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Difference of other flow rates&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/j0wWW.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Difference of other flow rates&quot; title=&quot;Difference of other flow rates&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;edited 2022-10-28 15:53&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's not a slicer thing. I sliced object with Cura and got pretty much the same result. I babystepped z-axis during the print to get nice result. So I think it is either z-axis motor not stepping enough or I need to lower extrusion multiplier in slicer. I will print calibration cube to check if z-axis motor steps up enough&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;edited 2022-10-28 18:34&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Printed calibration cube. Turns out my z-axis steps were off. Model was 19.66mm instead of 20mm. I tuned steps to 407 from 400. That helped a bit (model is 20.02mm now) , but still the same ugly overextruded result. Tried to lower extrusion multiplier to 0.8 and still got the same bad result&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;edited 2022-10-30 22:11&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is neither nozzle nor heatbreak tube. I checked it using my old hardware. Maybe it is somehow connected to firmware... Or E-steps are off while printing&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="35836" LastEditorUserId="35836" LastEditDate="2022-10-30T19:13:59.737" LastActivityDate="2022-11-01T01:02:30.817" Title="Bad print quality starting second layer" Tags="|creality-ender-3|print-quality|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20125" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-10-25T15:07:44.397" Score="1" ViewCount="21" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I am trying to wire things in my printer I always have trouble finding a list of all the connector types and what is needed to properly crimp them. I don't see it in the pin out for the board or anything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Is there a good source for information about which connectors to use given a board?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am looking for something like a list with pictures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="24911" LastActivityDate="2022-10-25T15:07:44.397" Title="Is there a good source for connectors and crimping tools needed for the individual wires?" Tags="|printer-building|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20126" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20124" CreationDate="2022-10-26T08:02:04.340" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would go back to the brass nozzle and try again for comparison.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We had a batch of 10 cheap steel nozzles all of which caused problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31811" LastActivityDate="2022-10-26T08:02:04.340" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20127" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20155" CreationDate="2022-10-26T10:42:35.897" Score="0" ViewCount="106" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am finally unable to reach adequate printing with my Creality 3D. This is how it prints a raft&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WCpw2.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WCpw2.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you see, thread is non-uniform.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What can be a reason?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Printing setup:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Nozzle is brass, 0.4 width, new from Amazon&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Filament is PLA&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Nozzle temperature is 220, bed temperature is 60.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I am using autolevelling with BLTouch&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20403" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2022-10-31T21:05:08.790" LastActivityDate="2022-10-31T21:05:08.790" Title="Print thread is non-uniform" Tags="|creality-ender-3|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20129" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-10-26T13:46:42.003" Score="2" ViewCount="258" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to buy my first FDM printer, to print household items and wearable gadgets too big for my LCD resin one. Due to financing &amp;amp; tax reasons, what I'll buy now is what I will have for at least a year.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was thinking about &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.prusa3d.com/product/original-prusa-i3-mk3s-kit-3/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Prusa i3 MK3S+&lt;/a&gt;, and &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.prusa3d.com/product/original-prusa-i3-mmu2s-upgrade-kit-for-mk2-5s-mk3s-org/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;MMU2S&lt;/a&gt; looks really interesting and useful, especially to print water soluble supports. However, after reading reviews I hardly can justify buying it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have some technical experience, can make some things and once even built a 3 axis stepper motor system from scratch, and it worked. I have a resin LCD printer and have printed working parts. I still have NEMA17 motors, 4 of them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming I'll get Prusa i3 MK3S+, what else would I need to print and assemble MMU2S? Is there an official Bill Of Materials? Blueprints? STL files?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20803" LastActivityDate="2022-10-26T22:34:27.770" Title="How can you print Prusa MMU2S at home?" Tags="|prusa-i3|multi-material|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20130" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20129" CreationDate="2022-10-26T14:40:59.147" Score="2" Body="&lt;h2&gt;The MMU2S&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main setup of the MMU2S is one motor to choose which material is extruded, another to cut filament and move the coupler tube to the actual extruder. Then there are bearings, springs, screws, some rods, and a special chip.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The materials needed can be reconstructed from &lt;a href=&quot;https://help.prusa3d.com/category/original-prusa-i3-to-mmu2s-upgrade_288?_ga=2.48346212.337958585.1666794711-1851114810.1663947627&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;the Assembly instructions&lt;/a&gt;. Or you check out the &lt;a href=&quot;https://help.prusa3d.com/tag/mmu2&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;help page here&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt;. It has:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.printables.com/de/model/57219-original-prusa-mmu2s-printable-parts&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Printable parts&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.prusa3d.com/category/mmu2-mmu2s/#_ga=2.248634181.337958585.1666794711-1851114810.1663947627&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;spare part listing&lt;/a&gt; - which can be your guidance in purchasing some parts and used to order specialized hardware&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Firmware&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hardware&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;aforementioned assembly instructions.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2022-10-26T14:46:32.140" LastActivityDate="2022-10-26T14:46:32.140" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20131" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20129" CreationDate="2022-10-26T17:55:20.720" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The MMU2S is quite a bit to put together, almost as long as the MK3S+ itself and the general consensus from a lot of the community is negative results for quite a lot of money. There are other options to try such as the Enraged Rabbit Carrot Feeder which is popular in the Voron community. Though there may be talks of not needing a wipe tower, the ERCF still needs one for non-voron machines, some the MMU2S has kinda fix with its wipe in setting in PS which allows for the change color to be wiped into the infill which will never be seen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't want to say don't get the MMU2S but I'll definitely say even with a lot of skill its a very finicky add-on that many have claimed has stopped them from printing with it. Another notable option would be the Mosaic Palette 3 but the price tag is just about as much as a MK3S+ itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="35837" LastActivityDate="2022-10-26T17:55:20.720" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20132" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-10-26T18:46:34.830" Score="1" ViewCount="247" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am using Cura 4.13.1 as a slicer for my Ender 3 v2 printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to print a model which I scaled to 400 %. To improve bed adhesion I wanted to add a default raft (Extra Margin = 15 mm). Unfortunately, Cura is not able to slice the model despite being still within the printer's build volume (400 % = 190x200x200 mm). I have to reduce the scaling to 365 %  (= 171x183x180 mmm) to fit the slicing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a workaround for printing the 400 % size, I will try to use a small support structure for better bed adhesion but I would prefer a raft.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit:&lt;/strong&gt; Sorry for leaving out the info about the models form. I get the 220+raft limitation but my model is tapered downwards:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9PC5q.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9PC5q.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the raft actually fits the printers/slicers default limit.&#xA;Does it really not matter and cura simply adds the raft size to models max X and Y values?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="34370" LastEditorUserId="34370" LastEditDate="2022-10-28T17:42:29.213" LastActivityDate="2022-10-28T17:42:29.213" Title="Why does a raft reduce / limit build volume?" Tags="|creality-ender-3|ultimaker-cura|build-plate|rafts|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20133" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20132" CreationDate="2022-10-26T20:46:35.093" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The raft still needs to fit on the bed, and it counts as a print, because, it is printed. You want the raft for better adhesion, so that means that you need more contact with the bed. If you’re not, your basically wasting filament. Its kinda logical actually.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="35678" LastActivityDate="2022-10-26T20:46:35.093" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20134" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20129" CreationDate="2022-10-26T22:34:27.770" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;A more affordable solution is the &lt;a href=&quot;https://sites.google.com/view/the-smuff/work-in-progress?authuser=0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;SMuFF&lt;/a&gt;, it  uses a simple 32-bit controller board, 2 NEMA 17 steppers, some optical end stops and a couple of sets of dual gear extruder gears (up to 12 colors, the default I also use is 5). Furthermore you need some screws and some rods. All printable parts are available from the Github page and there is a 178 page manual.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A word on soluble supports, I've printed PVA on Ultimaker printers, but it is tricky, it will clog easily. You would need a filament dryer, it needs to be dried before printing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2022-10-26T22:34:27.770" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20135" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19958" CreationDate="2022-10-26T23:45:35.053" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Like mentioned, one of the most important things with PETG and other materials such as PLA with woodfill, Nylons, some other materials usually with similar properties to PETG, drying is your friend. The main reason being is that the materials listed above are all hygroscopic. They have a tendency to absorb moisture in the air very well and it should almost be a regular thing to dry it for some ours before printing it. Some materials like Nylon cant be used even after just three days of sitting in open air.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The issue arises when you are printing and the moisture trapped in the filament is super-heated. If you print some and its been out you will get those pops and cracks while its printing, that's the result of the moisture heating and the water bubble exploding making cracks, leaving inconsistent layers and sometimes small craters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wouldn't say that the toaster is impossible but its a challenge, as it should be. The premise of the toaster is to challenge your printer and give you and insight into how your printer is working, in terms of your settings. Printing this model will be great to see how well your retraction, bridging, tolerance, and temps are. While I would generally say try it out, it does take some time so going with some easier prints like retraction cubes, temp towers, and simple bridges may be better and easier on filament use when starting off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the extruder is slipping, attempt to add a slight more tension but not too much. As mentioned before, it really is a better thing to grab a cheap aluminum kit from Amazon or a hobby store online. The reason being is that the idler will no longer be a smooth roller bearing but instead have teeth as well to help hold on, the aluminum is also much stronger and can hold up in the case you get a jam for any reason.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="35837" LastActivityDate="2022-10-26T23:45:35.053" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20136" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20132" CreationDate="2022-10-27T09:49:46.127" Score="1" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Adjusted model Dimensions&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The model has the size determined by the base area of the bounding box, in this case, &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$\pu{190 \times 200 mm }$&lt;/span&gt;. The raft as told by OP adds 15mm on &lt;strong&gt;all&lt;/strong&gt; sides of the model, and thus adds 30 mm in total on both the X and Y dimensions. This gets us a bounding box floor area of &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$\pu{220 \times 230 mm}$&lt;/span&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The model's bounding box has a height of &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$\pu{200 mm}$&lt;/span&gt;. Add to that the thickness of the raft. This is not mentioned, but in the worst case, this is about 3 mm, and so you get &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$\pu{203 mm}$&lt;/span&gt; as the maximum. Our model's Bounding Box thus is &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$\pu{220\times 230\times 203 mm}$&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The smaller scale model (&lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$\pu{171 \times 183 \times 180 mm}$&lt;/span&gt;) results in an adjusted area of &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$\pu{201 \times 213 \times 183 mm}$&lt;/span&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Printer dimensions&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The standard Creality Ender3 v2 is set up with a build volume of (&lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$\pu{220\times 220\times 250 mm}$&lt;/span&gt;) As your base area is 230 mm in one dimension, it just can't fit. The slightly scaled item is &lt;em&gt;just&lt;/em&gt; under that dimension and thus fits.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Solutions&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With a firmware update, the printer can be told to use all of the bed, and then Cura's printer settings can be adjusted accordingly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sometimes, but not in this case, rotating the model can result in a model that doesn't fit in normal orientation to fit: A line of 240 mm doesn't fit along the X or Y axis, but easily along the diagonal of the printer. In fact, it is enough to turn the model by about 23.3° and the line fits:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rP9Ab.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Graphic showing a 240 mm line at a 23.3-degree angle fitting inside a gray box&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rP9Ab.png&quot; alt=&quot;Graphic showing a 240 mm line of 0.45 mm width first at horizontal orientation and then at a 23.3-degree angle fitting inside a gray box of 220 mm width&quot; title=&quot;Graphic showing a 240 mm line at a 23.3-degree angle fitting inside a gray box&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2022-10-27T14:45:55.483" LastActivityDate="2022-10-27T14:45:55.483" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20137" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-10-27T17:15:34.293" Score="1" ViewCount="479" Body="&lt;p&gt;This model is essentially a cylinder. However, about mid-way, I break up the cylinder wall into multiple segments, while pretty much keeping to the general shape of a cylinder. Two segments per 90-degree section.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cura has left one quadrant essentially alone. However, in the other three, it prints a segment, travels to a new quadrant, repeats until the layer is complete. The optimal path would be: print the center strip, print the perimeter, move a couple of millimeters, and repeat 8x. Essentially walking around the cylinder wall of each layer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any programs to help with this? My Google-Fu isn't the best. My searches resulted in Cura travel settings, where I already modified a few settings and can't find any that change the travel path.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Aside from a reduction in print time, the areas where the travel occurs leaves some artifacts I'd rather not have. I reduced my travel speed and increased my retraction. Instead of &amp;quot;sticks&amp;quot;, I have bumps, like a mini-seam. (&amp;quot;Sticks&amp;quot; - Literally short segments of filament stuck to the cylinder wall, not hairs.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I guess there are two routes to improving the quality here: travel / other settings. I'm essentially &amp;quot;blaming&amp;quot; travel on my problems and hence focused on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I consider standard quality:&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XdZsI.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Photo of a 3D printed model with printing errors&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XdZsI.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Photo of a 3D printed model with printing errors&quot; title=&quot;Photo of a 3D printed model with printing errors&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I'm trying to avoid:&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/W1vdH.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Photo of the same 3D printed model without the printing errors&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/W1vdH.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Photo of the same 3D printed model without the printing errors&quot; title=&quot;Photo of the same 3D printed model without the printing errors&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Printer: Creality Ender 3 S1 Pro - 0.5 Steel&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Filament: HIPS&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Nozzle temp: 265 °C&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Bed temp: 110 °C&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Slicer: Cura 5.2.1&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Layer Height: 0.3 mm&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Inner / Outer Walls: 0.75 mm | 0.7 mm (&amp;gt; 0.7 yields unaligned seam?)&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Inner / Outer wall speed: 55 mm/s | 45 mm/s&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Retraction: 1 mm | 45 mm/s&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Travel speed: 200 mm/s&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="35576" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2022-10-27T19:19:07.513" LastActivityDate="2022-10-27T19:19:07.513" Title="How to optimize the travel path" Tags="|print-quality|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20138" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23132" CreationDate="2022-10-27T22:26:20.400" Score="0" ViewCount="2835" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to know how simple is it to install CR6Community firmware&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/CR6Community/Marlin/releases&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://github.com/CR6Community/Marlin/releases&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do not want to make low-level modifications for it.  And also I want to know how simple is it to get back to official firmware?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to update because I came to know it has better calibration options and also I'm having issue with Z Axes that does not remember its position.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30887" LastActivityDate="2024-03-10T16:43:44.397" Title="Installing Creality CR6 SE Community firmware" Tags="|firmware|creality-cr-6|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20139" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6576" CreationDate="2022-10-29T12:12:51.180" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;My approach has always been that I'm going to lose material when I sand down the item to remove layer lines, so I generally print to exact fit, and then manually correct with sandpaper or a craft knife.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="29097" LastActivityDate="2022-10-29T12:12:51.180" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20141" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20144" CreationDate="2022-10-30T02:22:11.867" Score="2" ViewCount="636" Body="&lt;p&gt;I need to print a thin piece.&#xA;Theoretically, it could work, but Cura prints the walls as single lines.&#xA;In my case, it is just this line that breaks apart as you can see here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a setting that would instruct Cura to avoid creating such a line as the outer wall, or how else could I resolve this problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Printer: Kobra Max&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Material: PETG / PLA&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Temperature: 250 °C / 65 °C&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Speeds:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Print speed: 80 mm/s&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Outer Wall Speed: 45 mm/s&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Inner Wall Speed: 80 mm/s&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Top/Bottom Speed: 45 mm/s&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Travel Speed: 100 mm/s&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Initial layer speed 45 mm/s&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Travel retraction speed: 40 mm/s&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nwP2L.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Photos and graphic showing the point of failure of a 3D printed model&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nwP2L.png&quot; alt=&quot;Photos and graphic showing the point of failure of a 3D printed model&quot; title=&quot;Photos and graphic showing the point of failure of a 3D printed model&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/F0Scr.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Screenshot of Cura's Print Preview of a 3D printed model showing where the failure happens&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/F0Scr.png&quot; alt=&quot;Screenshot of Cura's Print Preview of a 3D printed model showing where the failure happens&quot; title=&quot;Screenshot of Cura's Print Preview of a 3D printed model showing where the failure happens&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="35280" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2022-10-31T15:27:29.813" LastActivityDate="2022-10-31T15:30:40.560" Title="How do I avoid straight lines for walls in Cura?" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|anycubic-kobra-max|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20142" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-10-30T11:14:27.607" Score="1" ViewCount="245" Body="&lt;p&gt;Good  day, I bought an z axis extension kit for my ender 3 pro and therefore  needed  to update marlin by myself. I am using the sd card for firmware   flashing. OctoPrint is connected via usb. The BLTouch is v3.1, it is   connected via the 5 pin cable in the slot directly near the LCD slot in   the Motherboard. The Motherboard is 422.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The  problem describes as follows. My printer is not able to move down  on  the z axis. I can move it by z axis moving up but after leaving the   menu or directly reducing the z axis height it wont move down. It also shows in the main menu always z=0 for its position. The Autohome function correctly autohomes x and y axis until it tries to use the bltouch to move down. In this progress the BLTouch stows and deploys the little stick several times until it just stops with autohome shown on   the display or M112 Error.&#xA;Also I  am glad if someone might also have other suggestions for  better  configuration settings in those files if someone just sees them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can provide configuration.h configuration_adv.h and pins_creality_v4&#xA;Thank you for time and best regards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;configuration.h: &lt;a href=&quot;https://pastebin.com/iA7kNGyZ&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://pastebin.com/iA7kNGyZ&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;configuration_adv.h &lt;a href=&quot;https://pastebin.com/j9JyfBp9&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://pastebin.com/j9JyfBp9&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;pins_Creality_V4.h: &lt;a href=&quot;https://pastebin.com/0f0KPMf4&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://pastebin.com/0f0KPMf4&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Problem solved. I was dumb and have over seen the  Z_MIN_PROBE_ENDSTOP  option. This fixed it for me&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="35912" LastEditorUserId="35912" LastEditDate="2022-10-30T18:29:11.440" LastActivityDate="2022-10-30T18:29:11.440" Title="Custom Marlin update for Ender 3 Pro results in Z minimum endstop for autohome and Z move in negative direction" Tags="|marlin|bltouch|creality|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20143" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20152" CreationDate="2022-10-30T11:23:18.843" Score="2" ViewCount="465" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm using Creality Slicer, brims and other anti-warming or adhesion settings are all turned off. when I place an object on the bed a shaded area appears around it (See picture).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KLzxT.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KLzxT.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this simply the area in which you can't print anything else in sequential print mode due to the risk of the print head hitting it, or is there some other meaning?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="29097" LastEditorUserId="29097" LastEditDate="2022-10-30T21:21:57.983" LastActivityDate="2022-10-31T15:57:24.043" Title="What is the shaded area that appears around the outside of objects in Creality Slicer?" Tags="|slicing|creality|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20144" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20141" CreationDate="2022-10-30T15:06:38.097" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Outer wall perimeters are printed as continuous lines, unless the geometry determines otherwise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your print faces an overhang situation in which it is prone to print walls from the inside out as where it sticking the wall lines together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Default behavior is printing the outer wall first and traversing inwards, in overhang situations this isn't ideal so that you may want to print the wall perimeters inside out as if you stick the newly deposited perimeter to the latter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Generally, printing outer perimeter first will give the print better dimensional precision, but, may cause problems in overhang situations where there is limited area to &amp;quot;stitch&amp;quot; your perimeter to, hence the poor adhesion you experience.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A solution is to print inside perimeters first and work outwards, in Cura, there is an option for called &lt;a href=&quot;https://support.ultimaker.com/hc/en-us/articles/360012512340-Wall-settings&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Wall ordering&lt;/a&gt; to change the order of perimeter printing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After updating your question with the print speeds, another possibility that came to mind is that you are extruding too fast for PETG for your setup (extruder and nozzle assembly). Not all extruders can process PETG fast enough or nozzle assemblies cannot heat fast enough causing the nozzle to under-extrude. I've seen this happen on my own printers. Please note that the premium brand I use, limits extrusion to 50 mm/s, 80 mm/s might be on the high side for your setup. It isn't that PETG cannot be extruded fast, it is merely that not all extruders and nozzles are capable of doing so (especially the lower end of the 3D printer market). So even that you now can stick perimeter from changing the order, under-extrusion might prevent from a good adhesion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2022-10-31T15:30:40.560" LastActivityDate="2022-10-31T15:30:40.560" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20145" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20141" CreationDate="2022-10-30T16:11:16.233" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm pretty sure your core problem is underextrusion from printing PETG faster than your extrusion system can actually keep up with. Unless you've cranked up the acceleration, long straight lines are the only place in a print where the actual print speed will reach cruise at the requested speed; otherwise, all the time is spent speeding up towards that requested speed, then slowing back down for the next turn before reaching it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have a single-flat-filament-gear, no-reduction-gearing, bowden extruder like the Ender 3 and most of these Ender 3 clones have, you'll be lucky to get reliable, consistent extrusion with PETG even at 50 mm/s (assuming 0.4 nozzle and 0.2 layer height). 80 mm/s is almost surely too much without upgrading your extruder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, you didn't say anything about temperature, but low temperature will exacerbate this problem and lead to the failed layer bonding you're experiencing. Anything below 245°C is &amp;quot;very low&amp;quot; for PETG - despite what manufacturers recommendations may say. They write the recommendations low so that customers with PTFE-lined hotends (which can't safely go above 245-250) will buy their product, not because it actually works well at those temperatures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2022-10-30T16:11:16.233" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20146" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-10-30T18:45:22.610" Score="1" ViewCount="540" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've taken a bit of vacation and forgotten all the settings that I uncovered while tinkering with my printers.  Different settings for different printers for different materials.  I use Cura and PrusaSlicer, and they both behave more or less (randomly) the same.  Sometimes they save some things, most of the time they don't save the important stuff.  Neither slicer ever saves profiles, nor does it seem to have an option to, and they go weird if you change anything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How are you supposed to save profiles?  Can I save them out to a file for later import when I need them?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I realize that both will probably have different ways to circumnavigate profiles, so I don't mind breaking it out into 2 questions if need be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Me?  Oh I've just been hating profile saving for 12+0 years back when it was Slic3r.  At least with that software I could save them as a file and make sure that they were imported at the start of every single print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An example of randomness: on this print on a large diameter printer, the infill speed was set to 4mm/s in Cura, making the print time 9 hours.  Once I fixed that, the print time was less than 2 hours.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5576" LastEditorUserId="5576" LastEditDate="2022-10-30T18:50:56.403" LastActivityDate="2022-10-30T20:03:44.737" Title="How to save slicer profiles?" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|slicing|prusaslicer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20147" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20146" CreationDate="2022-10-30T20:03:44.737" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Both Cura and PrusaSlicer save settings as comments in G-code files, so you should be able to recover settings form Gcode files, and save them as new profiles. I generally save projects along with G-code files, for extra security.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3953" LastActivityDate="2022-10-30T20:03:44.737" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20148" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20150" CreationDate="2022-10-31T02:37:53.427" Score="1" ViewCount="154" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a request to create a jigsaw puzzle based on a road layout, for a customised christmas gift.  Imagine a Secret Santa present.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The city in question is Dunedin, New Zealand, which is on the waterline and has surrounding hills.   I'd like to combine a download from  &lt;a href=&quot;https://touchterrain.geol.iastate.edu/?DEM_name=JAXA%2FALOS%2FAW3D30%2FV2_2&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://touchterrain.geol.iastate.edu/?DEM_name=JAXA%2FALOS%2FAW3D30%2FV2_2&lt;/a&gt;  (available in OBJ, STL Binary, STL ASCII, or GeoTIFF)  with an overlay like this in JPG/PNG.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/E3krb.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/E3krb.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Last step before printing would be to carve out individual jigsaw shapes for printing separately.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I imagine each road would be a slight &amp;quot;trench&amp;quot; or hollow in the STL's surface.  Clearly a filament swap would not work to paint the roads as they climb, so either coloured marker or a fine paintbrush  would be used, followed by clearcoat to preserve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What software workflow would give a useful result?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've looked at blender and freecad and tinkercad but nothing gives any result close to what I imagine but I haven't the experience.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;A low-res STL at 6.7 Mbytes can be found at &lt;a href=&quot;https://criggie.org.nz/crap/V2_2_170.51_-45.88_tile_1_1.STL&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;This Link&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Importing the above STL into tinkercad returns this mess of triangles, not a solid shape.   &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.tinkercad.com/things/6nAgsF3lykG-dunedin-stl-imported&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.tinkercad.com/things/6nAgsF3lykG-dunedin-stl-imported&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The STL above displays perfectly with  &lt;code&gt;fstl&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;But same STL fails with blender etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I am using Linux, but have access to a modern mac or an older windows 2008 host if necessary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suspect the STL is not &amp;quot;closed&amp;quot; which is leading to all manner of difficulties.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What would get me close to my desired print outcome?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12956" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2022-10-31T15:36:33.993" LastActivityDate="2022-10-31T15:36:33.993" Title="Software workflow for merging a flat image and a STL?" Tags="|software|stl|pre-processing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20150" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20148" CreationDate="2022-10-31T08:27:04.880" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was not able to perform the download at your link. Instead, I visited the touch_terrain site and approximated the location. The modifications allow for a thicker base, which I selected to 4 mm arbitrarily, eliminating the non-closed (probably) as well as exaggerated the vertical scale to 4x.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/e1b7J.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/e1b7J.png&quot; alt=&quot;NZ 3D STL file image&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;The result is satisfying and appears to have a minor validation problem surrounding the perimeter of the base, but no problems with the terrain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If adjusting the base thickness does not resolve the problem you experience, consider also to increase the overall size of the model and use the tiling function to segment as needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the roadway application, you can create an SVG of the map at appropriate scale. Thin lines will be problematic, but the thicker lines can be boolean-subtracted from the STL file. It will be necessary to extrude the SVG to sufficient thickness to impact the terrain STL in order to create the trenches.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It might also be possible, but far more complex, to use a feature in Fusion 360 that overlays an extrusion onto a surface in a uniform manner. Angus from Maker's Muse has a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Taymf_INu_U&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;video explaining the process&lt;/a&gt;, but it's a pair of primitives, not a complex terrain and may not apply.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With the permissions corrected, the file downloaded without complications. I note that the composition/analysis is in excess of 140K triangles (Meshmixer) and could create problems with some programs. Fusion 360 will either refuse to function or provide an alert.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I reduced the mesh using Meshmixer set to 70 percent, resulting in no apparent loss of detail, but fewer than 40K triangles. Tinkercad also dislikes high triangle count objects. &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.dropbox.com/s/9lek02vmlx7lbbn/dunedin%20reduced.stl?dl=0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;The reduced file&lt;/a&gt; will be available for download for a limited time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4sOWi.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4sOWi.png&quot; alt=&quot;STL file image&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Image from released (reduced) STL file.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But wait, there's more. After some additional thought, with consideration for your constraints, I think I have a workable approach. I'm not sure how you'd approach this first step, though. I used Windows 3D Builder to repair the broken base. Meshmixer shows the flaw but does not repair it. I suspect other online repair facilities will resolve this simple problem. I could have tried Meshmixer (plane cut) and certainly Fusion 360's plane cut, but only thought of that as I type this addendum.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once repaired, I saved your map image and traced it in a suitable program to create the SVG file. Both in Inkscape and in LightBurn (a laser editing/burning program), the tracing went well. LightBurn allowed me to confirm that the SVG generated had closed shapes, but Tinkercad would not import any variation I created. I used Inkscape's Path to OpenSCAD which previews fine the extrusion to 10 mm, but it would not render, complaining of non-closed shapes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/o2egv.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/o2egv.png&quot; alt=&quot;extruded svg file&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are &amp;quot;speckles&amp;quot; all over the map, even though I enlarged it to 200% scale to reduce that aspect of the lines. I suspect this will be problematic and suggest to locate a better resource, to eliminate excessive detail in the map.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you have that solved and can extrude your map, scale and align it to match the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.dropbox.com/s/8zo5xwijc3206eb/dunedin%20reduced%20repaired.stl?dl=0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;terrain STL which has been repaired&lt;/a&gt;. Create a duplicate of the terrain, also properly aligned and elevate it. The object of this step is to use the terrain to carve away the extruded map. If the boolean subtract does not destroy the terrain, great, otherwise, lower the extruded map into the terrain to the desired depth and perform another subtract.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This should give you the channels you require for painting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastEditorUserId="854" LastEditDate="2022-10-31T12:21:07.953" LastActivityDate="2022-10-31T12:21:07.953" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20151" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7388" CreationDate="2022-10-31T10:52:41.097" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have just had exactly the same symptoms with different clearances b/w the bed and the nozzle after homing. In order to reproduce that, I simply had to do subsequent homings and measure the clearance. The variance was around 0.15 mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was not moving my printer. No wobbling was found. If the printing cycle is started successfully, then I have no issues with the printing quality. No missed steps on Z or any other axis.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The solution for me was in software. I have followed the comment here saying &amp;quot;You may want to try reducing the Z-axis homing speed to prevent it from exerting too much force, or tightening the switch more.&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;SOLUTION: I have compiled Marlin firmware myself with the only changes made to the homing speeds. Namely&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;in &lt;code&gt;Configuration_adv.h&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#define HOMING_BUMP_DIVISOR { 2, 2, 10 }       // Re-Bump Speed Divisor (Divides the Homing Feedrate)&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and in &lt;code&gt;Configuration.h&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#define HOMING_FEEDRATE_MM_M { (50*60), (50*60), (3*60) } &#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now during homing, the Z-axis movement is so gentle that the endstop triggers reliably at the same position. It costs me only extra 10 seconds but saves a lot of time in restarting the print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;P.S.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;It looks like my problem is a combination of things: speed of homing and some issues with the endstop. I am ordering endstops anyway but meanwhile... &lt;strong&gt;anyone who can compile Marlin may consider this approach as it requires no tinkering with the HW part of the printer and is easy to roll back or configure.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="35923" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2022-10-31T14:46:35.573" LastActivityDate="2022-10-31T14:46:35.573" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20152" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20143" CreationDate="2022-10-31T15:51:35.410" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Creality Slicer is a derivate of Cura. As such, all standard Cura things apply.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Cura uses red surfaces to denote overhangs.&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your upper surface is denoted as an overhang, this indicates that your item has its surfaces at least partially &amp;quot;upside down&amp;quot;. The model needs to be repaired, as such can result in the print solution being &amp;quot;That's to be a closed surface&amp;quot;, ignoring the hole in the center. The problem isn't the slicer, it is the generation of the STL that messed up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;About inverted surfaces, see also: &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/q/7385/8884&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/19044/little-help-on-this-cura-slicing-or-model-error&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/q/11013/8884&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Boxes around items come from sequential printing&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The box around parts is also usually created when you try to print multiple items in sequence and relates to the dimensions of your printhead. It pretty much marks the exclusion zone where you are not allowed to place the next item. Check if you have turned &lt;code&gt;print order&lt;/code&gt; from &lt;code&gt;all at once&lt;/code&gt; to &lt;code&gt;in sequence&lt;/code&gt; and adjust as needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2022-10-31T15:57:24.043" LastActivityDate="2022-10-31T15:57:24.043" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20153" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20188" CreationDate="2022-10-31T19:15:55.457" Score="1" ViewCount="6328" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought a new 32-bit board for my old Creality printer, and now I am going to connect my old old BLTouch sensor to it. I got some instructions from the internet and found that it needs to be connected to the central pin on MoBo.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ex6nD.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ex6nD.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This pin is marked &amp;quot;IN&amp;quot; while its purpose is to control BLTouch effector, i.e. it should be &amp;quot;OUT&amp;quot;, not &amp;quot;IN&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;MB (new) version is 4.2.7&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;BLTouch version is 3.1&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20403" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2022-11-07T22:16:28.600" LastActivityDate="2022-11-08T10:42:17.457" Title="Why is the pin, which is intended to control the BLTouch, marked &quot;IN&quot; on Creality board?" Tags="|creality-ender-3|bltouch|wiring|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20154" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20124" CreationDate="2022-10-31T19:16:14.643" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think the answer is printing temperature. This shiny PLA I'm using is Eryone Silk PLA. Although the working temperature is stated as 190-220 °C, my 205 °C was too much for it. A temperature of 190-195 °C produces good results though not as shiny anymore. It is three layers printed on the sample below with no problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tJP8x.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;3D printed sample printed with 195 degrees Celsius and showing no printing errors&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tJP8x.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;3D printed sample printed with 195 degrees Celsius and showing no printing errors&quot; title=&quot;3D printed sample printed with 195 degrees Celsius and showing no printing errors&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="35836" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2022-11-01T01:02:30.817" LastActivityDate="2022-11-01T01:02:30.817" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20155" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20127" CreationDate="2022-10-31T19:16:40.967" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found a problem: it is with extruder motor driver.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried to control the extruder with the knob and saw it that rotates with strange sounds and jerkily. Then I connect extruder cable to the socket of Z-axis on motherboard and also tried to control it with the knob. This time I found it rotates smoothly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I.e. motor is good, cable is good, motherboard 4th driver is not good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20403" LastActivityDate="2022-10-31T19:16:40.967" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20159" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20161" CreationDate="2022-11-01T11:22:36.663" Score="1" ViewCount="1553" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought motherboard version 4.2.7 and had BLTouch version 3.1&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Printer version is probably Creality Ender 3 Pro (although I don't know how it can matter if I got brand new motherboard from Amazon).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On &lt;a href=&quot;https://forums.creality3dofficial.com/download/ender-series/ender-3/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;firmwares page&lt;/a&gt; I dont see appropriate BLTouch verions. May be I need no firmware upgrade? How to know?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20403" LastEditorUserId="20403" LastEditDate="2022-11-01T13:48:32.493" LastActivityDate="2022-11-01T15:45:15.903" Title="How to determine correct firmware for Creality MB and BLTouch?" Tags="|creality-ender-3|firmware|bltouch|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20160" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-11-01T12:50:22.913" Score="0" ViewCount="584" Body="&lt;p&gt;I got 4.2.7 &amp;quot;silent&amp;quot; motherboard and plugged it into my Creality Ender. It worked well except it didn't recognize my (old) BLTouch device. I tried to download firmware from official site, and it worked, but strande chirping sound started to come out of printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Probably I have chosen incorrect firmware. Although now I can't choose correct one. Is there any explanation of this sound?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20403" LastActivityDate="2022-11-01T18:02:13.793" Title="Strange chirping sound appeared after firmware upgrade" Tags="|creality-ender-3|firmware|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20161" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20159" CreationDate="2022-11-01T15:45:15.903" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You linked to the incorrect directory, if your printer is a Creality Ender 3 Pro, the correct location is &lt;a href=&quot;https://forums.creality3dofficial.com/download/ender-series/ender-3-pro/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt;, here you can find versions of the firmware for your printer type and controller board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on the version of the touch sensor, you either have or have not got an adapter board. If you have an adaptor board you have the components in the red rectangles:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ffde6.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ffde6.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If so you need this firmware file: &lt;a href=&quot;https://secureservercdn.net/166.62.109.7/i6h.45f.myftpupload.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/10/4.2.7V-Ender-3-Pro-32bit-Mainboard-Marlin2.0.1-V1.3.1-BLTouch-TMC2225.rar&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Ender-3 Pro-4.2.7-TMC2225, Marlin2.0.1-BLTouch-V1.3.1(with adapter board)&lt;/a&gt;, otherwise you need this firmware file: &lt;a href=&quot;https://secureservercdn.net/166.62.109.7/i6h.45f.myftpupload.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/10/Ender-3-Pro-4.2.7-Marlin2.0.1-V1.1.2-BLTouch-TMC2225.rar&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Ender-3 Pro- 4.2.7-TMC2225, Marlin2.0.1-BLTouch-V1.1.2(without adapter board)&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An alternative is to build your own firmware, you then no longer are bound to pre-compiled files from others, the Marlin configuration file for the Ender 3 Pro is found near the Marlin sources, see &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Configurations/tree/bugfix-2.1.x/config/examples/Creality/Ender-3%20Pro/CrealityV427&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;, you probably only need to enable the BLTouch in the &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Configurations/blob/bugfix-2.1.x/config/examples/Creality/Ender-3%20Pro/CrealityV427/Configuration.h#L1345&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;configuration file&lt;/a&gt;. There are even more solutions, you can look into TH3D software or many other forks from Marlin on GitHub.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2022-11-01T15:45:15.903" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20162" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20160" CreationDate="2022-11-01T18:02:13.793" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It was because of incorrect firmware.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Previously I was using BLTouch 3.1 with Creality MD 1.1.4. This MB required to plug special small adapter board between MB and display, having BLTouch connected to this adapter board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I bought new MB 4.2.7 I found it had seprate socket for BLTouch. I found &lt;a href=&quot;https://tutorial.cytron.io/2021/10/19/bltouch-installation-for-ender-3-with-32-bit-v4-2-2-board/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;manual in the Internet about how to connect BLTouch&lt;/a&gt; to this socket, which appeared to be correct.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then I started to choose firmware and found there three versions of it: without adapter board, with adapter board, and with both adapter board and filament detector. I thought that this choice depends on BLTouch version and chosen one &amp;quot;with adapter board&amp;quot; because mine was with it initially and this was a mistake.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Apparently, this firmware was sending BLTouch control signal towards display wires and adapter board was filtering it and sendinf to BLTouch. In my case there was no adapter board and a signal, which was intended to control BLTouch, was reaching display circuit and causing it make weird sound.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once I downloaded firmware version without adapter board the sound disappeared.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20403" LastActivityDate="2022-11-01T18:02:13.793" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20163" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-11-01T18:02:54.637" Score="1" ViewCount="525" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have the following command:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;code&gt;format /q H:/fs:fat32/a:4096&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;that will then allow me to upload a .bin file that will update the ender's firmware.  How do I do this same format on linux?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(It seems the Ender does not respond to firmware update now, even if I leave it as the only file on the drive.  What is the Ender really looking for?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a stock board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="34543" LastActivityDate="2023-04-10T18:02:20.287" Title="Updating the firmware an Ender 3 With Linux" Tags="|creality-ender-3|firmware|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20164" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-11-02T12:06:51.057" Score="1" ViewCount="208" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am trying to print a very thin casting mould. Once printed, I then pour an epoxy resin mix into the printed void. After curing the resin and demoulding, the final product is a mesh/web-like set of channels. The aim is to make these channels (aka the void) as thin as possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With lots of careful adjustments, I have succeeded in making these channels approx 0.4 mm thick with an FDM 3D printer and a 0.15 mm nozzle diameter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I'd like to go thinner. I have little experience with resin 3D printers. I often see an XY resolution advertised of 0.05 mm. Does anyone have any experience printing extremely thin voids - and if so - &lt;strong&gt;what is the minimum reliable void thickness that a well-tuned resin printer could achieve in relation to the XY resolution?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;i.e. a 0.05 mm XY resolution (aka pixel size) might equate to a reliable void thickness of quadruple the XY resolution i.e. 0.2 mm? If I attempted to print two sides of a box with only a single pixel gap in between these two walls, would there be lots of overlap and cured regions in the middle where light leaks and therefore cures in the intended void space?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="35944" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2022-11-02T13:07:30.303" LastActivityDate="2023-11-27T17:06:40.897" Title="How thin a void/mould can a resin printer reliably produce?" Tags="|resin|sla|resolution|molds|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20165" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-11-02T12:27:25.083" Score="2" ViewCount="98" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is the effect of UV on PETG parts? Can I minimize that effect by placing some kind of UV light blocking film/coating?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, is there a limit in how much weaker a part can become because of exposure to UV light?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="35316" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2023-12-03T10:30:46.070" LastActivityDate="2023-12-03T10:30:46.070" Title="How much weaker do PETG parts become when exposed to UV light from the sun?" Tags="|petg|material|print-strength|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20166" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20168" CreationDate="2022-11-02T14:03:07.623" Score="2" ViewCount="258" Body="&lt;p&gt;How much weaker does a PETG part become when it absorbs as much moisture as it can hold?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="35316" LastActivityDate="2022-11-03T01:54:14.613" Title="How much weaker does PETG become when it absorbs as much moisture as it can hold?" Tags="|print-material|petg|material|knowledgebase|print-strength|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20167" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20164" CreationDate="2022-11-02T15:11:35.810" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to one of the many resources available for x/y resolution of resin printers, specifically DLP and MSLA, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.chitubox.com/en/article/support/indepth/technology/32&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Chitubox&lt;/a&gt; provides a formula to determine the minimum resolution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How to calculate the pixel for DLP/LCD?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As XY resolution is fixed for DLP/LCD systems, so there is a equation:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Width / X Axis = Height / Y Axis = Native Pixel Size&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If there is a 3D printer with a build area 68mm wide along the X axis.&#xA;Divide 68mm (the X axis) by 1440 (the LCD width resolution in pixels),&#xA;this will equal 0.047mm (47µm). And the native pixel size is 47µm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;0.047 mm is certainly close to the referenced 0.050 mm, but as also noted, there can be overlap/smear/filling created in the process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are test files for downloading and printing to use on a specific printer, allowing one to optimize exposure times and other settings. Cleaning of such small details could be a complication, perhaps resolved by an ultrasonic device and multiple passes of cleaning solution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The linked site also provides these images for comparison of resolution settings:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/O1I0X.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/O1I0X.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;47 micron resolution&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;47 micron resolution&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kZxtQ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kZxtQ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;100 micron resolution&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;100 micron resolution&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A one pixel wall between channels is going to be incredibly fragile and may not survive a suitably complete cleaning process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastActivityDate="2022-11-02T15:11:35.810" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20168" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20166" CreationDate="2022-11-03T01:54:14.613" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;To my knowledge, there is no reason to expect a printed PETG object to become weaker by virtue of absorbing moisture. Unless you keep it in a controlled environment with desiccant or unless it's solid (100% infill) and so thick that it's hard for moisture to migrate deep into the interior, the printed object will rapidly reach an equilibrium with a certain moisture content. It's not something that happens slowly over a long time of exposure to excess moisture. Even an air conditioned indoor environment with 45-50% relative humidity has plenty for it to absorb.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Where moisture affects the part strength is when it's present in the filament you're trying to print. This is because:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Water has both an incredibly high specific heat and an even more extreme phase transition energy for the transition from liquid to vapor. This means a lot of your hotend's heat will be spent boiling off the water rather than getting the plastic sufficiently melted to flow well and bond to itself. This can largely be compensated for by increasing the temperature 15-30 °C. However...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;When the water trapped in the filament boils, it produces bubbles. These either remain inside the extruded lines, making them less than solid, or they burst out, making holes in the extrusion. And while more temperature makes the melting issue above mostly go away, more temperature increases the violence of the bubbling and the corresponding damage to the print's integrity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Neither of these is a concern with moisture absorbed into the part after printing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2022-11-03T01:54:14.613" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20169" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20017" CreationDate="2022-11-04T02:12:30.297" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Manually pause and immediately do an X-home or Y-home so nozzle is not over the work. Swap filament. Repeat an X-home and a Y-home to assure printer knows where the nozzle is (it's possible to disturb the print head position while changing filament). Manually turn on extruder heater if it's off and allow to reach printing temperature. Advance filament to purge old color and assure heating chamber is filled. Resume.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It works pretty reliably for me...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Vp6wa.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Vp6wa.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Typical results...&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="33030" LastEditorUserId="33030" LastEditDate="2022-12-01T14:29:24.973" LastActivityDate="2022-12-01T14:29:24.973" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20170" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20017" CreationDate="2022-11-04T11:02:41.977" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found that raised letters look and work better when picked-out using paint or permanent marker.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Print your lettering in your part but don't even bother changing filament.  Instead carefully use a marker pen or paint brush to colour in the top of the lettering.   Depending on the paint you might choose to do several layers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Nail polish is an excellent paint option - it comes in a plethora of colours and the budget stuff works fine.  Gold/silver/metallic &amp;quot;art markers&amp;quot; give a nice look on black or white PLA too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note, white/light filament jobs may encourage pigments to track between the layers, giving a shadow look.  Test before committing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When dry, you might chose to do a clearcoat of spray paint on top for durability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;IMO changing filament colour is a feature that doesn't work very reliably.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12956" LastActivityDate="2022-11-04T11:02:41.977" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20171" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20017" CreationDate="2022-11-04T13:09:10.323" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cura's &amp;quot;Filament change&amp;quot; post-process script relies on the insertion of the G-code &lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#M600:_Filament_change_pause&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;code&gt;M600&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/a&gt;. This only works when your printer manufacturer has activated this in the firmware!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Marlin default is that the &lt;code&gt;M600&lt;/code&gt; command is not functional, see e.g. the following &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/blob/bugfix-2.1.x/Marlin/Configuration_adv.h#L2625&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;line of code&lt;/a&gt; of the advanced configuration file:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;//#define ADVANCED_PAUSE_FEATURE&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In order to enable the functionality to &amp;quot;add&amp;quot; the &lt;code&gt;M600&lt;/code&gt; code to the firmware you need to rebuild the firmware by removing the &lt;code&gt;//&lt;/code&gt; in front of the &lt;code&gt;#define ADVANCED_PAUSE_FEATURE&lt;/code&gt;. This may require some additional skills to do, downloading firmware, setting the proper settings in the configuration for your specific printer model, compiling and installing the firmware.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The alternative is manual pausing from the display, but this requires you to be present at the printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another alternative is that you alter the G-code yourself to insert a dwell code (&lt;a href=&quot;https://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/G004.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;code&gt;G4&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/a&gt;), which can be supplemented by a move away from your print), note this requires you to also sit next to the printer, the dwell command will allow for a pause for a specified amount of time, be sure not the miss the window.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2022-11-04T13:09:10.323" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20173" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3302" CreationDate="2022-11-05T06:23:11.370" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Use Meshy &amp;quot;...a WebGL-based tool that does measurements and simple transformations on STL and OBJ files.&amp;quot;: &lt;a href=&quot;https://0x00019913.github.io/meshy/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://0x00019913.github.io/meshy/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="34954" LastActivityDate="2022-11-05T06:23:11.370" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20174" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18458" CreationDate="2022-11-05T13:44:58.953" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I too have been plagued with stuck filament in my hotend. First, I am using a ~300 mm long Bowden tube on a delta-type 3D printer.  Every time it jams, I can pull the filament back out, I find the end having a slightly larger diameter that is ~2-3 mm in length. I cut this off and feed it back and I am good to go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A couple of observations:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I replaced my Bowden tube and heatbreak, but I may need to taper the end of the Bowden tube so there will be 0 gaps with heatbreak.  My Bowden tube I.D. may be too large and during retraction, it expands in the Bowden tube.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Next, the filament tolerance is +/-.03 mm.  This may not be tight enough to cause it to get stuck.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Last, the temperature should be reduced to the lowest possible to prevent any heat to migrate up the heatbreak.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="35975" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2022-11-06T11:15:14.417" LastActivityDate="2022-11-06T11:15:14.417" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20176" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-11-05T17:02:35.453" Score="1" ViewCount="105" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there any way to increase the layer height of support material separately in Prusaslicer? When I add some supports to a model with 0.1 mm layer height, the support material also generates a smaller layer height which fails to print supports most of the time. I use an Ender 3 S1 printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="35979" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2022-11-05T17:16:57.827" LastActivityDate="2022-11-05T17:16:57.827" Title="0.1 mm layer height print support material always fails to print" Tags="|creality-ender-3|support-structures|layer-height|prusaslicer|support-material|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20177" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-11-05T17:17:00.557" Score="1" ViewCount="1700" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought my son an Ender 3 Pro and a CR touch. I am trying to get this setup to print for him despite having zero experience with 3D printing and at a loss with the installation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are the details:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I have the 4.2.2 motherboard.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I have reviewed my CR Touch install and believe it to be correct.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I did the formatting of my SD card.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I have downloaded and installed this firmware: &lt;code&gt;Ender-3pro_HW4.2.2_SW2.0.8.27_CRTOUCH.bin&lt;/code&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I am having the &amp;quot;homing failed message&amp;quot;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When I try to move the Z-axis, nothing happens (the printer sits idle).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I have read about adding the G-code however have no idea where to do this.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I power the unit on, something doesn't seem right. I have read the provided install directions, searched Youtube videos, and read through this site to no avail. I just need somebody with some experience here to help walk me through getting this setup.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did not use the printer prior to the CR Touch install.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="35980" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2022-11-07T02:07:30.790" LastActivityDate="2024-03-31T13:05:55.677" Title="CR Touch install help" Tags="|creality-ender-3|troubleshooting|bltouch|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20179" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-11-06T01:35:01.293" Score="2" ViewCount="49" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm using &lt;a href=&quot;https://artillery3d.com/products/artilleryc2ae-hornet-3d-printer-build-volume-220x220x250mm-ultra-quite-printing-32bit-mainboard-dc-heat-plate-nozzle-180e28483-240e28483-04mm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Artillery Hornet&lt;/a&gt; printer running Marlin firmware.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a way to &lt;strong&gt;ask/query&lt;/strong&gt; printer status via its USB/Serial interface? Without OctoPrint, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Example (something like this):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Arduino: Hey are you done printing?&#xA;&#xA;Printer: Not yet&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sub&gt;This idea is inspired by vehicle OBD, where you can query the engine RPM by sending a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.csselectronics.com/pages/obd2-pid-table-on-board-diagnostics-j1979&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;PID&lt;/a&gt; through CanBus interface. So, I wondered if we could do something similar with a 3D printer.&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="35985" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2022-11-07T02:05:56.313" LastActivityDate="2022-11-07T02:05:56.313" Title="'Ask' printer for printing status" Tags="|usb|serial-connection|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20180" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="522" CreationDate="2022-11-06T03:43:13.500" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Thank you Fernando Baltazar for the G-code you used to solve the hot end cooling issue after bed levelling probing. I did change &lt;code&gt;M190&lt;/code&gt; to &lt;code&gt;S60&lt;/code&gt; but kept everything else. This worked.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;G29 ; Autonivel&#xA;M190 S35 ; set bed temperature&#xA;G1 Z4 F240 ; lift nozzle&#xA;M109 S195 ; wait for temperature to be reached&#xA;G21 ; set units to millimeters&#xA;G90 ; use absolute coordinates&#xA;M82 ; use absolute distances for extrusion&#xA;M104 S210 ; set temperature&#xA;G92 E0&#xA;G1 E-1.5000 F1800&#xA;G1 Z0.225 F240&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="35986" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2022-11-06T11:16:50.637" LastActivityDate="2022-11-06T11:16:50.637" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20181" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-11-06T07:19:42.163" Score="2" ViewCount="504" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an Ender 3 v2 that will fluctuate the hotend temperature every 10 minutes or so and eventually causing thermal runaway. I have tried the PID auto-tune a few times and it seems to solve it for a couple of days. Any idea what’s going on?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2mZ3f.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Screenshot of OctoPrint's temperature graph&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2mZ3f.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Screenshot of OctoPrint's temperature graph&quot; title=&quot;Screenshot of OctoPrint's temperature graph&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Today I ran the PID auto-tune again a few times trying to figure out the issue. Now when I heat the hotend to 220 °C it holds perfectly for about 15 minutes then drops and goes into thermal runaway shutdown. I heated the hotend while the printer was not printing to eliminate a bad electrical connection as the issue. Is this maybe a thermistor issue?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="35987" LastEditorUserId="35987" LastEditDate="2022-11-08T01:51:11.850" LastActivityDate="2023-09-26T15:10:31.060" Title="Ender 3 v2 temp fluctuations every 10 minutes or so" Tags="|creality-ender-3|temperature|thermal-runaway|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20182" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15054" CreationDate="2022-11-06T19:04:19.340" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Wrap all the heat system (above nozzle) with heat tape. I solved my problem with this!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="35993" LastActivityDate="2022-11-06T19:04:19.340" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20183" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-11-07T01:23:06.130" Score="1" ViewCount="350" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm fairly new to 3D printing and looking for help. I have an Ender 3 Pro and it's been working great up until about a week ago. When I preheat the extruder, the nozzle gets hot as it should, but it keeps jamming mid-print. About an hour in, the filament stops feeding. The gears are still trying to push it through, but it won't go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After a bunch of troubleshooting, I eventually unscrewed the fitting where the tubing and filament enter, and even with the nozzle still fully heated up to 205-215 °C, there's a cooled, solid blob of filament sitting in what I believe is the heat sink (just above where it goes into the nozzle).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know why this would happen? I'm using new filament, but I've tried 3 different spools all with the same result.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="35996" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2022-11-07T02:03:34.413" LastActivityDate="2022-11-07T02:03:34.413" Title="Ender 3 Pro extruder keeps clogging" Tags="|extruder|filament-jam|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20184" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20177" CreationDate="2022-11-07T09:23:15.213" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are so many pre-compiled versions of firmware available of which some don't work well and others are labeled incorrectly or not enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For this reason many people compile their own files; you are in control of the options of your choice. But, building your own firmware requires some skills, so it is imaginable that some like to use pre-compiled files.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another compiled file you could try is &lt;a href=&quot;https://img.staticdj.com/071ca474f52dd0d51a802d45efdb9540.zip&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this one&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this file- Firmwares of CR Touch for Ender-3 Pro Series with 32-bit motherboard. Before update any firmwares, please refer to &lt;a href=&quot;https://img.staticdj.com/9492bcf1d6457b681a6ae305c4bed148.pdf?spm=..product_ca58ac35-a13e-45c9-9863-ffb9220605c5.download_support_2.1&amp;amp;spm_prev=..search.search_1.1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&amp;quot;CR Touch Firmware Version for 32-bit Motherboard&amp;quot;&lt;/a&gt; for more details on how to select firmwares.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to the latter link, you require firmware file &amp;quot;Ender-3pro_HW4.2.2_SW2.0.8.27_CRTOUCH&amp;quot;, so you should have the correct version! But, there appears to be a consensus to &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.reddit.com/r/Ender3Pro/comments/xfbk2p/question_for_updating_firmware_for_cr_touch/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;not use&lt;/strong&gt; Creality pre-compiled&lt;/a&gt; firmware! It appears that the firmware doesn't work (well).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2022-11-07T09:23:15.213" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20185" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-11-07T17:27:46.287" Score="2" ViewCount="442" Body="&lt;p&gt;After encountering extreme under extrusion on my Anycubic i3 Mega, I first cleaned the nozzle and ended up replacing the entire hotend + nozzle. Since that did not help and I couldn't see any issues with it, I went on to check my E-steps. It seems that this is the root cause of the issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I removed the Bowden tube to have no resistance and used &lt;code&gt;G1 E100 F100&lt;/code&gt; to feed 100 mm of filament through the extruder. The extruder only extruded ca. 23 mm though, so I had to adjust the E-Steps value from &lt;strong&gt;92&lt;/strong&gt; to &lt;strong&gt;398&lt;/strong&gt; which already seemed way off, seemingly &amp;quot;fixed&amp;quot; the issue though. When I repeated the test &amp;quot;under load&amp;quot; with the Bowden tube connected and the hotend heated to 220 °C (using PLA I normally print at 200 °C), the extruder once again only extruded a fraction of the supposed 100 mm (I don't remember the exact measurement, though approximately 30 mm). The gears seem to be fine, and the filament that is pushed against the small gear doesn't seem to slip either.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately, that's where my experience ends, can someone tell me how to proceed to narrow down the issue? I suppose it could be the motor itself, a faulty stepper motor driver, loose cables, or the mainboard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit to @Citadel:&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;When I bought the printer it had a spare hot end that came with it. I simply replaced the old one with this one. I did not do any further hardware customization.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit2:&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;Sorry for the late update, I wasn't able to check the printer before due to work. I swapped the stepper driver with one of the others on board and checked the e-steps again. Aaaand I just then I noticed I must have forgotten to save the to eeprom when I updated the e-steps last time... So of course I tried with the swapped stepper driver and original e-steps (&lt;strong&gt;92&lt;/strong&gt;), but this didn't fix the issue. So the issue is not the driver. After that I changed the e-steps to &lt;strong&gt;398&lt;/strong&gt; again and saved this time. Last time I accidentally started a print that that caused the eeprom reset before I saved the settings and tried the e-steps under load. This time it worked, even under load. I still believe this must mean that the motor is missing some steps but for now it seems to print fine. If I get issues again I'll next try to swap the motor. Thanks for your answers!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;TL;DR: forgot to save the new e-steps due to starting a calibration print that reset the value before saving. New value actually works but probably indicates that something might be wrong with the motor as the stepper driver is fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36007" LastEditorUserId="36007" LastEditDate="2022-11-13T19:48:06.093" LastActivityDate="2023-08-30T21:17:06.570" Title="Broken stepper motor?" Tags="|extruder|stepper-driver|stepper|anycubic-i3-mega|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20186" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20020" CreationDate="2022-11-07T21:43:17.427" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;One thing that you have to remember is that PC/CF filaments are hygroscopic, they absorb lots of moisture from the air very quickly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I would begin by drying your filament, and then printing with it inside of a dry air-sealed box such as a food dehydrator or a box of silica packets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When not using the filament, it is crucial that it is not left out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36008" LastEditorUserId="36008" LastEditDate="2022-11-07T22:09:35.377" LastActivityDate="2022-11-07T22:09:35.377" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20187" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19969" CreationDate="2022-11-07T21:46:11.650" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Lots of things can cause these issues but one that I cause that I find intreastng can be found here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/c6JmCdovE0U?start=0&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;this was a facinating discover to me and could be the cause of your issue potentially.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36008" LastActivityDate="2022-11-07T21:46:11.650" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20188" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20153" CreationDate="2022-11-07T22:14:10.220" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;TL; DR&lt;/strong&gt; - The pins are clearly named in reverse, and the &lt;code&gt;IN&lt;/code&gt; pin is obviously an &lt;em&gt;output&lt;/em&gt; and the &lt;code&gt;OUT&lt;/code&gt; pin is obviously an &lt;em&gt;input&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, as to the &lt;em&gt;why&lt;/em&gt;, it would be hard to guess, apart from the lazy deduction of either:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sloppy design work, or;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Translation/language difficulties/barriers.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Without one of the board's designers posting an answer here, I guess we will never know for sure. A more generic labelling of both of the pins, such as &lt;code&gt;IO1&lt;/code&gt; and &lt;code&gt;IO2&lt;/code&gt;, would have been better, and less confusing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition, the guide, where the image that you posted comes from, seems to be rather poorly written and I would caution you &lt;em&gt;against&lt;/em&gt; following it - see below for more details.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Notes&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I may be wrong but the image that you show is presumably from this guide, &lt;a href=&quot;https://printermods.co.uk/blogs/guides/creality-v4-2-2-v4-2-7-motherboard-bl-touch-wiring-options&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Creality V4.2.2 &amp;amp; V4.2.7 Motherboard BL Touch Wiring Options&lt;/a&gt;, which shows two differing wiring suggestions (&lt;em&gt;5 wire&lt;/em&gt; and &lt;em&gt;3+2 wire&lt;/em&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;The 5 wire&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A BLTouch with a 5 pin connector attaches to the 5 pin socket on the controller board:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0298/8661/1595/files/creality-5pin-bltouch-header_480x480.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;original image&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/873lh.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;5 wire configuration&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/873lh.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;5 wire configuration&quot; title=&quot;5 wire configuration&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;The 3+2 wire&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A BLTouch with both a 3 pin and a 2 pin connector attaches to part of the 5 pin socket (the three left most pins, &lt;code&gt;G&lt;/code&gt;, &lt;code&gt;V&lt;/code&gt; and &lt;code&gt;IN&lt;/code&gt;) and the Z-axis minimum endstop (&lt;code&gt;Z-&lt;/code&gt;), respectively:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0298/8661/1595/files/3_2-wiring-pinout-diagram_207a5382-a3b7-46f6-a830-259f9b197317.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;original image&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zjmd8.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;3+2 wire configuration&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zjmd8.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;3+2 wire configuration&quot; title=&quot;3+2 wire configuration&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: If the image is expanded and examined carefully, it can be seen that &amp;quot;IN&amp;quot; has actually been written on the diagram, just over the yellow wire - obviously this is just a blind repetition of the mis-labelled pin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Deduction&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Either the z-axis endstop or the right most two pins of the 5 pin connector (&lt;code&gt;G&lt;/code&gt; and &lt;code&gt;OUT&lt;/code&gt;) can be used to connect the BLTouch probe sensor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The right most connector (&lt;code&gt;OUT&lt;/code&gt;) is therefore equivalent to the endstop pin, and is (most probably) an active low &lt;em&gt;input&lt;/em&gt;, using a pull-up resistor either on the board or internal to the MCU - even though it is labelled as &lt;code&gt;OUT&lt;/code&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This leaves the remaining connector (the three left most pins) for the BLTouch motor/servo. Therefore, obviously, the &lt;code&gt;IN&lt;/code&gt; pin is actually an &lt;em&gt;output&lt;/em&gt; used to actuate the motor/servo.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: As &lt;em&gt;dandavis&lt;/em&gt; points out in &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/20153/why-is-the-pin-which-is-intended-to-control-the-bltouch-marked-in-on-crealit/20188#comment38463_20153&quot;&gt;their comment&lt;/a&gt;, the IO pins of the MCU IC are configurable in the firmware, and so could be reconfigured as either inputs or outputs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Alternative 3+2 wiring&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The much more useful and detailed tutorial, &lt;a href=&quot;https://tutorial.cytron.io/2021/10/19/bltouch-installation-for-ender-3-with-32-bit-v4-2-2-board/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;BLTouch Installation for Ender 3 with 32-bit V4.2.2 Board&lt;/a&gt; (linked to by &lt;em&gt;towe&lt;/em&gt; in &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/20153/why-is-the-pin-which-is-intended-to-control-the-bltouch-marked-in-on-crealit#comment38413_20153&quot;&gt;their comment&lt;/a&gt;) shows a similar set of connections, except that the 5 pin plug is replaced by the dual 3+2 wire connector, with both plugs (the 3 pin and the 2 pin) connected to the 5 pin socket on the controller board (rather than having the 2 pin going to the Z-axis endstop connector, as shown in the previous guide):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wVK87.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Disconnecting the Z-stop&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wVK87.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Disconnecting the Z-stop&quot; title=&quot;Disconnecting the Z-stop&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UVk11.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Connecting the BLTouch probe input&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UVk11.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Connecting the BLTouch probe input&quot; title=&quot;Connecting the BLTouch probe input&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aoaeA.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Connecting the BLTouch servo control&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aoaeA.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Connecting the BLTouch servo control&quot; title=&quot;Connecting the BLTouch servo control&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Enhanced 3+2 diagram and wire swapping warning - 32-bit board only&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A better diagram of the 3+2 wiring configuration is shown below:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(&lt;a href=&quot;https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/1834/5761/files/image_2020_12_01T15_50_53_434Z.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;original image&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MuXcm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Enhanced 3+2 wiring configuration diagram&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MuXcm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Enhanced 3+2 wiring configuration diagram&quot; title=&quot;Enhanced 3+2 wiring configuration diagram&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found this diagram via the cautionary tale, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.reddit.com/r/Ender3Pro/comments/kcz8px/creality_v422_board_and_bltouch_problem_board/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Creality v4.2.2 board and BLtouch problem - board fried!&lt;/a&gt; on Reddit, which highlights the &lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;mismatch&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt; of the wiring of the various BLTouch probe/MoBo versions (the &lt;code&gt;V&lt;/code&gt; and &lt;code&gt;G&lt;/code&gt; pins may need to be swapped on the servo connector and &lt;strong&gt;must be verified&lt;/strong&gt; before connecting and powering).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This mismatch, for the &lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;32-bit board&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt; is also highlighted in &lt;a href=&quot;https://tutorial.cytron.io/2021/10/19/bltouch-installation-for-ender-3-with-32-bit-v4-2-2-board/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;BLTouch Installation for Ender 3 with 32-bit V4.2.2 Board&lt;/a&gt;, under the &lt;strong&gt;Swap the Wiring&lt;/strong&gt; section:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This BLTouch Kit is meant for 8-bit and 32-bit board, however, the default wiring is for 8-bit (green) board with adapter (hack the buzzer pin for LCD). No swapping of wires is neccessary for 8-bit board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For 32-bit board, we will need to do a minor adjustment to the wiring. This is a &lt;strong&gt;MUST&lt;/strong&gt; step, as the swapped wires are VCC (+ve 5VDC) and GND (0V). If you do not swap the wires, you will damage the BLTouch and it is not under warranty.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(&lt;a href=&quot;https://i2.wp.com/tutorial.cytron.io/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/BLTouchWiringSwap.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;original image&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/THXUZ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Wire swap for 32-bit board only - versions 4.2.2 and 4.2.7&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/THXUZ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Wire swap for 32-bit board only - versions 4.2.2 and 4.2.7&quot; title=&quot;Wire swap for 32-bit board only - versions 4.2.2 and 4.2.7&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Firmware&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the sake of completion, and because the guide where your image came from &lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;does not seem to be particularly well-written&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt; - the firmware will differ, depending upon where the probe sensor is connected to, i.e. the z-axis endstop connector &lt;em&gt;or&lt;/em&gt; the right hand pins of the 5 pin socket.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Either a different pre-compiled firmware binary is required or (if compiling the firmware yourself) some lines need to be uncommented in the Marlin source code, in &lt;code&gt;configuration.h&lt;/code&gt; - which, according to the &lt;a href=&quot;https://printermods.co.uk/blogs/guides/creality-v4-2-2-v4-2-7-motherboard-bl-touch-wiring-options&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;first guide&lt;/a&gt;, are the following lines:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#define BLTOUCH&#xA;...&#xA;#define AUTO_BED_LEVELING_BILINEAR&#xA;...&#xA;#define RESTORE_LEVELING_AFTER_G28&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I'm not convinced by that rather overly simplistic first guide, unless the right most two pins of the 5 pin socket and the Z-axis endstop pins are hard-wired together on the board, which may be possible, but seems unlikely. I would have assumed that some pin changes are required in the firmware (but I may be wrong).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Indeed, the far superior guide, &lt;a href=&quot;https://all3dp.com/2/how-to-set-up-marlin-for-auto-bed-leveling/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Enhanced 3+2 wiring configuration diagram&quot;&gt;How to Set Up Marlin &amp;amp; BLTouch for Auto-Bed Leveling&lt;/a&gt;, shows that those three lines are only for the bed-levelling settings and a &lt;em&gt;multitude&lt;/em&gt; of other changes are required.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of particular note, if the Z-axis endstop is not used and the &lt;code&gt;G&lt;/code&gt; and &lt;code&gt;OUT&lt;/code&gt; pins are used instead, then make sure that the following line is commented out:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#define Z_MIN_PROBE_USES_Z_MIN_ENDSTOP_PIN&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and uncomment&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#define Z_MIN_PROBE_ENDSTOP&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a number of other lines that need modifying, which are beyond the scope of this answer. Please refer to &lt;a href=&quot;https://all3dp.com/2/how-to-set-up-marlin-for-auto-bed-leveling/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Enhanced 3+2 wiring configuration diagram&quot;&gt;this guide&lt;/a&gt; or some other &lt;em&gt;well written&lt;/em&gt; guide.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;References&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://printermods.co.uk/blogs/guides/creality-v4-2-2-v4-2-7-motherboard-bl-touch-wiring-options&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Creality V4.2.2 &amp;amp; V4.2.7 Motherboard BL Touch Wiring Options&lt;/a&gt; - poor quality&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.reddit.com/r/Ender3Pro/comments/kcz8px/creality_v422_board_and_bltouch_problem_board/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Creality v4.2.2 board and BLtouch problem - board fried!&lt;/a&gt; - cautionary tale&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://tutorial.cytron.io/2021/10/19/bltouch-installation-for-ender-3-with-32-bit-v4-2-2-board/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;BLTouch Installation for Ender 3 with 32-bit V4.2.2 Board&lt;/a&gt; - very good&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://all3dp.com/2/how-to-set-up-marlin-for-auto-bed-leveling/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Enhanced 3+2 wiring configuration diagram&quot;&gt;How to Set Up Marlin &amp;amp; BLTouch for Auto-Bed Leveling&lt;/a&gt; - very good&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4762" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2022-11-08T10:42:17.457" LastActivityDate="2022-11-08T10:42:17.457" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20189" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20185" CreationDate="2022-11-08T18:32:12.360" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Make sure that you do not have volumetric extrusion (E in mm&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt;) enabled in the printer's menu system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3953" LastActivityDate="2022-11-08T18:32:12.360" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20190" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-11-08T20:26:09.210" Score="1" ViewCount="2627" Body="&lt;p&gt;I upgraded my Ender 3 with a new Mobo, the 4.2.7 version.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My current setup is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Printer Specifications:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ender 3&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Upgraded Motherboard 4.2.7 (Silent Stepper Drivers)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Marlin FW Upgrade to Version 2.1.x&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;New metal extruder handle&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Replacement bed springs&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;New complete hot end&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Everything else is in stock&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Prior to the mobo upgrade, everything was working fine. Now I'm having problems with the extruder.&#xA;I did use at first the Ender3 32bit 4.2.7 firmware, but it did happens too.&#xA;The e-steps for the filament length have been adjusted. Once I start spinning the extruder, the extruder stepper starts grinding and jumping/rewinding the extruder wheel with the filament to the back; sometimes even 8-10 mm. Also, if I manually hold the filament back, it springs back. It seems that there is no power/power coming from the stepper motor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I would like to check how much power the driver needs and gets.&#xA;How or where can I find the required voltage for the drivers?&#xA;How to adjust the drivers?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any tips or references are welcome.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="35977" LastEditorUserId="35977" LastEditDate="2022-11-09T08:06:28.580" LastActivityDate="2022-11-09T10:34:24.590" Title="Ender 3 - mobo 4.2.7 - driver adjustment" Tags="|creality-ender-3|stepper-driver|extruder-driver|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20191" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20190" CreationDate="2022-11-09T01:02:07.023" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would try to reinstall the old board and see if the extruder still skips.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the extruder is not having an issue with the old board installed, you'll need to visit &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.creality.com/pages/download-ender-3?spm=..page_1934481.products_display_1.1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Creality's Updates page&lt;/a&gt; and install the Marlin 2.0 firmware designed for the 4.2.7 board. Please use a how-to video on YouTube for installing your new board, you will need to calibrate E-Steps, calibrate PID Temperatures, etc. as outlined in the video.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the extruder continues its behavior, the extruder is under-extruding. Please check out &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.3dsourced.com/rigid-ink/ultimate-3d-printing-troubleshooting-guide/#inconsistent-extrusion-under&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;The Holy Bible of 3D Printing troubleshooting: Underextruding printer&lt;/a&gt; to get to the bottom of it before you upgrade to your new silent board. Then I can pretty much guarantee you have either a clogged nozzle or a hotend that's too cold during printing to melt the plastic at a fast enough rate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The third thing is you need to upgrade the stock Ender 3 extruder because the stock black extruder bracket is absolute garbage, and it alone would cause a skipping and flaking extruder. Get the sweet stainless grey one for 15 USD on amazon. Blame Creality for that oversight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please respond back if this didn't help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="34295" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2022-11-09T03:23:54.070" LastActivityDate="2022-11-09T03:23:54.070" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20192" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20185" CreationDate="2022-11-09T01:22:05.027" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Using a Bowden drive system, you should never need to resort to testing the drive system without the Bowden tube. The tube acts as a neutral surface that retains the force of the plastic through the hotend. Try replacing the nozzle and fully cleaning the hotend following a YouTube video. If you don't have a hotend motor with a set gear, please test the uniform turning of the gears to see if the gears are slipping on the motor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Make sure the Bowden tube is not clamped flat in any area. 220 °C is fantastic for PLA testing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please check out &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.3dsourced.com/rigid-ink/ultimate-3d-printing-troubleshooting-guide/#inconsistent-extrusion-under&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;The almighty word of the 3d printing gods regarding underextruding&lt;/a&gt; and use it to become a better print mechanic and to be forgiven of your 3D printing sins. This reference holds dominion over all printers in existence, wield it responsibly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="34295" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2022-11-09T17:49:40.023" LastActivityDate="2022-11-09T17:49:40.023" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20193" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20190" CreationDate="2022-11-09T10:07:08.497" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are different versions of the 4.2.7 main board. This is an excellent video made by &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youmaketech.com/how-to-adjust-stepper-motor-currents-on-ender-3-pro-v2/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;YouMakeTech&lt;/a&gt;: &lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/k2nm-WetPnU?start=0&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;To prevent the answer to become unusable due to &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Link_rot&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;link rot&lt;/a&gt;, a concise summary is shown below.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The correct drivers can be &amp;quot;read&amp;quot; from the written letter on the card reader:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jwXQK.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jwXQK.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1gANf.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1gANf.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on the driver, you need to find out what the maximum Vref for your stepper is (this depends on the maximum current rating of your stepper), e.g. for 2208, 2209 and 2225 drivers the Vref is calculated by the same equation:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lUWvp.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lUWvp.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Imax (maximum curretn) is depending on the used stepper:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TUVYP.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TUVYP.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Use the nominal values to prevent the steppers to become too hot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Vref can be adjusted by the screw potentiometers next to the drivers, use a voltmeter while adjusting:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rONzE.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rONzE.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2022-11-09T10:34:24.590" LastActivityDate="2022-11-09T10:34:24.590" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20194" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20195" CreationDate="2022-11-09T14:43:21.747" Score="4" ViewCount="1027" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have created a Mengersponge in OpenScad which is a 3D object. I wanted to get an SVG export from it for the laser cutter but I receive this error:&amp;quot;Current top level object is not a 2D object.&amp;quot; How do I select each side of this sponge to export it as SVG for laser cutting?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Code:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;module MengerSponge(side = 270, order =3){&#xA;    difference(){&#xA;        cube([side,side,side],center=true);&#xA;        MengerSponge_aux1(side, order);&#xA;    }&#xA;    }&#xA;module MengerSponge_aux1(side, order){&#xA;    rotations=[&#xA;    [90,0,0],&#xA;    [0,90,0],&#xA;    [0,0,90],&#xA;    ];&#xA;    for(rotation=rotations){&#xA;        rotate(rotation)&#xA;    MengerSponge_aux2(side, order);&#xA;        }&#xA;}&#xA;&#xA;&#xA; module MengerSponge_aux2(side, order){&#xA;     if(order&amp;gt;0){&#xA;        translate([0,-(side-(side/pow(3,order-1)))/2,0])&#xA;            for(i=[0:pow(3,order-1)-1]){&#xA;                translate([0,(side/pow(3,order-1))*i,0])&#xA;                    translate([-(side-(side/pow(3,order-1)))/2,0,0])&#xA;                        for(i=[0:pow(3,order-1)-1]){&#xA;                            translate([(side/pow(3,order-1))*i,0,0])&#xA;                                cube([(side/pow(3,order)),(side/pow(3,order)),side+1],center=true);&#xA;            }&#xA;        }&#xA;        MengerSponge_aux2(side, order-1);&#xA;     }&#xA;     else{&#xA;         echo(&amp;quot;Fail&amp;quot;);&#xA;     }&#xA; }&#xA;side=270;&#xA;order=3;&#xA;MengerSponge(side, order);&#xA;&#xA;&lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;```&lt;/span&gt;&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36023" LastActivityDate="2022-11-09T16:45:41.850" Title="OpenSCAD ERROR: Current top level object is not a 2D object" Tags="|openscad|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20195" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20194" CreationDate="2022-11-09T16:37:20.637" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Use the projection() feature of OpenSCAD to effectively generate a plane cut. Position the cube structure in such a manner that the x/y plane intersects the desired shape to be exported. Rendering the code will then generate a 2D image. Previewing the code will generate a 1 mm thick 3D model which will &amp;quot;flatten&amp;quot; when rendered.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the image below, I did not translate the cube, merely placed the cube generation within the projection feature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;projection(){&#xA;MengerSponge(side, order);&#xA;}&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This rendering will export to SVG as desired. Different positioning of the cube (rotate, translate) will create different patterns.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kSCtv.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kSCtv.png&quot; alt=&quot;projection of cube&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastEditorUserId="854" LastEditDate="2022-11-09T16:45:41.850" LastActivityDate="2022-11-09T16:45:41.850" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20196" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-11-10T00:40:14.543" Score="4" ViewCount="2801" Body="&lt;p&gt;Where I live, Raspberry Pi is currently* either unavailable, at prices 3 times higher than a year before, or sold online as &amp;quot;untested&amp;quot;. Or straight up as not working. So I am not getting one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the same time, I'd love to be able to set up Octoprint or similar platform. Are there any alternatives that are not like out of stock worldwide? What I'm looking for is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ability to send prints using wireless network&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ability to monitor prints using webcam / embedded camera&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ability to monitor temperatures, get filament runout alarms etc&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ability to stop print in case of a fail&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;* end of 2022&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20803" LastActivityDate="2022-12-29T20:59:22.713" Title="What are viable substitutes for Raspberry Pi to run Octoprint or similar software for Prusa i3 MK3S+?" Tags="|prusa-i3|octoprint|raspberry-pi|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20197" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20196" CreationDate="2022-11-10T02:19:41.713" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;A recent post on Reddit directed me to a possible alternative. The link given was for a YouTube video titled &amp;quot;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0Dt5RHkIppQ&amp;amp;t&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Armbian, Octoprint and Octodash install on Libre Renegade (Raspberry Pi alternative board)&lt;/a&gt;&amp;quot; from The feral engineer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The single board computer listed in the video is the &lt;a href=&quot;https://a.co/d/a3eLsMP&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Libre Computer Board ROC-RK3328-CC&lt;/a&gt; available on Amazon (US) for $50 USD.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The feral engineer did mention that he had a few problems getting things to work but was successful in the end. He does give the major steps for doing the installation and overcoming some of the errors that popped up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a list of &lt;strong&gt;all&lt;/strong&gt; possible single-board computer (SBC), module (SoM) and Linux-supported development boards see &lt;a href=&quot;https://hackerboards.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Board-DB&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another alternative I have recently come across is the Makerbase MKS  Pi Board. It is sold through &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B0BHZ7TBQB&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Amazon&lt;/a&gt; (85 USD) and &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005004417871231.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Aliexpress&lt;/a&gt; (55.79 USD) and is a great alternative due to the Raspberry Pi shortage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The MKS Pi can run a standard Armbian OS but Makerbase supplies an OS image with klipper and kiauh baked in. An install &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dpandme.com/2022/09/16/tutorial-mks-pi-klipper-install/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;tutorial&lt;/a&gt; by 3DP and me provides easy-to-follow instructions. This SBC is probably the easiest to setup.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23193" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2022-12-29T20:59:22.713" LastActivityDate="2022-12-29T20:59:22.713" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20198" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16725" CreationDate="2022-11-10T17:17:21.323" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;On the LCD, the MK3 will show &lt;strong&gt;Original Prusa MK3 OK&lt;/strong&gt;, while the MK3S/+ will show &lt;strong&gt;Original Prusa MK3S OK&lt;/strong&gt;. This will only work if you have the stock firmware installed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="35508" LastEditorUserId="35508" LastEditDate="2023-03-18T20:38:26.717" LastActivityDate="2023-03-18T20:38:26.717" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20199" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1113" CreationDate="2022-11-10T17:22:27.317" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;On Cartesian printers, the origin is usually the front left corner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On Delta printers, the origin is in the center.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are having trouble getting prints off the build plate, maybe consider a removable flexible build surface, such as the &lt;a href=&quot;https://3d-easy.xyz/en-us&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Easy Peelzy&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="35508" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2022-11-10T18:37:00.587" LastActivityDate="2022-11-10T18:37:00.587" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20200" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15913" CreationDate="2022-11-10T17:26:19.237" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;PrusaSlicer already has pre-tuned profiles for the Ender 3 v2 in the Configuration Assistant. It also has tuned print settings from SUPERDETAIL (0.08 mm layer height) to SUPERDRAFT (0.28 mm layer height) so it shouldn't be too hard to set up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="35508" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2022-11-10T18:37:47.280" LastActivityDate="2022-11-10T18:37:47.280" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20201" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20202" CreationDate="2022-11-11T08:44:04.783" Score="2" ViewCount="111" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know of a method, app, technique to &amp;quot;dumb down&amp;quot;, if you will, larger models to do a quick initial print to check that it fits the real world proof of concept that it was designed for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am not talking about 0.3 mm draft printing, I already do that... But is there a way or method, to kind of &amp;quot;skeleton&amp;quot; the large print, print it in let's say, 25 % of the actual time to test its physical application. Scaling down works, in some situations, but I would prefer a 100 % model, just &amp;quot;simplified / skeleton'ized&amp;quot;, still with the correct dimensions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I primarily use Fusion360 for designs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6209" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2022-11-11T09:40:03.720" LastActivityDate="2022-11-11T14:11:49.000" Title="Convert model to &quot;skeleton / prototype&quot; model for quick real world &quot;Proof of Concept&quot;" Tags="|fusion360|rapid-prototyping|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20202" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20201" CreationDate="2022-11-11T10:04:09.567" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are techniques to remove material from an exiting model to create less dense models (like in a skeleton). One such a technique is applying Voronoi tessellation (also known as a Voronoi decomposition, a Voronoi partition, or a Dirichlet tessellation), basically the model is broken up in polyhedrons of which the ribs are kept with a certain thickness and smoothed. See e.g. the following example from &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.voronator.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.voronator.com/&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SE4th.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SE4th.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can modify files yourself or use an &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.voronator.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;online application&lt;/a&gt; to do that for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, you may create skeleton like models, but it is not always faster to print these models; they may have less material, but retraction may cause the printing time to be actually longer than printing the original at low density infill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2022-11-11T14:11:49.000" LastActivityDate="2022-11-11T14:11:49.000" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20204" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-11-11T16:39:52.930" Score="0" ViewCount="433" Body="&lt;p&gt;Check &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.reddit.com/r/FixMyPrint/comments/ysa0ve/esun_petg_outer_wall_delamination_random_huge/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this post&lt;/a&gt; for larger versions of these pictures,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ktRWO.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Random image #1&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ktRWO.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Random image #1&quot; title=&quot;Random image #1&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ph92i.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Random image #2&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ph92i.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Random image #2&quot; title=&quot;Random image #2&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9akQN.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Random image #3&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9akQN.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Random image #3&quot; title=&quot;Random image #3&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using an Ender 5 Pro, printing at 0.28 mm lowest resolution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As per that subs recommendation, I've tried the following with not a shred of difference:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Different speeds down to 40 mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Temps from 230-250 °C&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fans from 0-50 %&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Calibrated E step&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Changed retract before outer wall to off&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Outer wall flow 105 %&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Main flow to 105 %&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Top skin overlap to 50 %&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ironing on&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Retrimmed Bowden tube&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;New nozzle&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cleaned out hot end&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Relevelling&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Also happened directly after dehydrating&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Seems to be something completely transient to these settings as it happens in the same place every time regardless. Are these under-extrusion spots? Should the PETG have a bigger baby-stepped Z gap?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also seems like the first layer and other layers print what should be a straight line into an angled line (see top delamination). Completely stumped.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36047" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2022-11-12T15:54:05.233" LastActivityDate="2022-11-12T15:54:05.233" Title="eSun PETG outer wall delamination, random huge artifacting on some sides and fine printing on others" Tags="|petg|delamination|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20205" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20163" CreationDate="2022-11-11T17:42:25.233" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's not obvious which, if either, the question is asking:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How does this Microsoft gobbledygook translate into a normal Linux command.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;This is how I'd normally do it, but what would it be if I have to do it on Linux?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;code&gt;format /q H:/fs:fat32/a:4096&lt;/code&gt; is a lazy way of saying&#xA;&lt;code&gt;format  H:  /q  /fs:fat32  /a:4096&lt;/code&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The documentation says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;&amp;gt;format /?&#xA;Formats a disk for use with Windows.&#xA;&#xA;FORMAT volume [/FS:file-system] [/V:label] [/Q] [/L[:state]] [/A:size]&#xA;              [/C] [/I:state] [/X] [/P:passes] [/S:state]&#xA;…&#xA;  volume          Specifies the drive letter (followed by a colon),&#xA;                  mount point, or volume name.&#xA;  /FS:filesystem  Specifies the type of the file system (FAT, FAT32, exFAT,&#xA;                  NTFS, UDF, ReFS).&#xA;  /A:size         Overrides the default allocation unit size. Default settings&#xA;                  are strongly recommended for general use.&#xA;                  …&#xA;  /Q              Performs a quick format. Note that this switch overrides /P.&#xA;  …&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Linux has formatting commands named mkfs.*&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$ mkfs.fat -help&#xA;mkfs.fat 4.1 (2017-01-24)&#xA;Usage: mkfs.fat [-a][-A][-c][-C][-v][-I][-l bad-block-file]&#xA;   [-b backup-boot-sector]&#xA;   [-m boot-msg-file][-n volume-name][-i volume-id]&#xA;   [-s sectors-per-cluster][-S logical-sector-size][-f number-of-FATs]&#xA;   [-h hidden-sectors][-F fat-size][-r root-dir-entries][-R reserved-sectors]&#xA;   [-M FAT-media-byte][-D drive_number]&#xA;   [--invariant]&#xA;   [--help]&#xA;   /dev/name [blocks]&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;code&gt;man mkfs.fat&lt;/code&gt; gives details about the individual options.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="35385" LastActivityDate="2022-11-11T17:42:25.233" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20206" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-11-11T20:09:12.103" Score="1" ViewCount="86" Body="&lt;p&gt;This might be considered a &amp;quot;Windows&amp;quot; question, but since it only happens with the Ender, I thought I would post it here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a Windows 10 laptop connected to my Ender 3 V2, and I use Pronterface to control the printer. When I boot my laptop with the Ender turned on, the device is recognized, appears as COM4 in the Device Manager, and all works fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I disconnect or turn off the printer with the laptop on, then reconnect it (or turn it back on), the USB does not recognize the printer and I have to restart my laptop for it to work again. Going into the Device Manager and trying to &amp;quot;Find new hardware&amp;quot; has no effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Stock firmware on the Ender with the CR touch (32-bit board).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any trick to getting the laptop to recognize the Ender once booted up?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="35664" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2022-11-11T21:11:01.357" LastActivityDate="2022-11-11T21:11:01.357" Title="Ender 3v2 is only recognized by Windows 10 laptop upon bootup" Tags="|creality-ender-3|pronterface|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20207" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20204" CreationDate="2022-11-11T20:18:46.193" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Go a lot slower. 40 mm/s is near the max speed for PETG on a stock Creality bowden extruder &lt;strong&gt;at 0.2 mm layer height&lt;/strong&gt;. You're aiming for nearly 50% more flow per unit distance, so you need to drop speed proportionally, down to about 25-30 mm/s.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your problem is isolated to only certain spots, it's likely that those are the only spots where you actually achieve and maintain the requested flow versus slowing down and speeding up over and over. It's also possible that you have oozing during travel (especially travel inside the boundary of the part, if your slicer is doing that unretracted) or that the extruder is slipping during unretract, producing missing extrusions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2022-11-11T20:18:46.193" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20208" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-11-12T08:39:31.837" Score="2" ViewCount="227" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Raise3D Pro2, which if you are not aware, is one of the most overbuilt, overpriced printers that lacks some of the most basic features of an Ender costing 1/10&lt;sup&gt;th&lt;/sup&gt; the price. One of which is ABL.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wish to generate a mesh with a dial indicator temporarily attached to the carriage, and then apply that mesh to a G-code file.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How would one do such a thing once they have manually recoded the offset values for their grid?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14623" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2022-11-12T12:16:43.110" LastActivityDate="2022-12-15T13:01:30.157" Title="How to apply manually obtained mesh leveling values to a G-code file on a printer without ABL?" Tags="|bed-leveling|pronterface|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20209" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20208" CreationDate="2022-11-12T14:42:59.303" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;That depends on the firmware, e.g. Marlin firmware can set a mesh through G-codes when the firmware is set to Unified Bed Levelling (UBL).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, Raise3D is using a closed source of which is unknown on which the firmware is based. You can most probably not use the Marlin firmware commands.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to adjust for a measured build plate surface geometry, you can always fall back on developing a software program to alter your created G-code source file.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you map the surface you can describe the height as function of X, Y coordinates. The current height value should be compensated for that mesh. A relative simple program (or plugin, e.g. Python script) should be able to alter the first 10 mm of G-codes where you smooth out the mesh to zero compensation at 10 mm height. Basically this is what the Marlin firmware does, compensation for the surface geometry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2022-11-15T12:40:45.740" LastActivityDate="2022-11-15T12:40:45.740" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20210" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14900" CreationDate="2022-11-12T17:54:33.583" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;elaborating on the answer from @r-github-stop-helping-ice, I find the following pattern useful:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h6&gt;example.scad&lt;/h6&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;module a() { .. }&#xA;module b() { .. }&#xA;module c() { .. }&#xA;&#xA;module print(item=0) {&#xA;  if (item==1) a();&#xA;  if (item==2) b();&#xA;  if (item==3) c();&#xA;}&#xA;&#xA;item = 0;&#xA;print(item);&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;h6&gt;render.sh&lt;/h6&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#!/bin/bash&#xA;for i in {1..3}; do&#xA;  openscad -D item=${i} -o item_${i}.stl example.scad&#xA;done&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36057" LastActivityDate="2022-11-12T17:54:33.583" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20211" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-11-13T17:05:48.643" Score="1" ViewCount="212" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm working in fusion360. I have 5 circle sketches that I need to all line up in a vertical line. I tried setting constraints, but they were just putting the circles in the exact same x y positions. I just need each circle to have to same x coordinate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RPVeR.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RPVeR.png&quot; alt=&quot;The image attatched shows 5 circles, all with different x values&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36060" LastActivityDate="2022-11-13T17:05:48.643" Title="How to horizontally align sketches in fusion360?" Tags="|cad|fusion360|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20212" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18820" CreationDate="2022-11-13T23:13:18.720" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was having the same issues with the Mega S. After checking all the connections and switches, I saved all the files that were on the SD card to my laptop. I then performed a standard format (not a Quick format) on the SD card. After that was accomplished, I put the files back on; success, the printer works fine. Apparently the random writes on the SD card and not knowing where the G-code or STL was dropped can make the printer confused seeing a G-code file that has to be read continuously step by step.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36069" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2022-11-13T23:46:46.780" LastActivityDate="2022-11-13T23:46:46.780" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20213" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-11-14T12:06:05.237" Score="1" ViewCount="156" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was adjusting the current on my Pololu stepper drivers when I accidentally fried two of my stepper drivers when I accidentally shorted the contacts with my multimeter probes. When I changed the fried drivers the board wasn't working properly. My Arduino Mega works fine alone when connected to my PC and executes the codes properly. However, as soon as I plug the RAMPS shield into my Arduino, the board disconnects from my computer. I cannot figure out the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36068" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2022-11-14T14:12:19.383" LastActivityDate="2022-11-15T20:43:34.193" Title="Is my RAMPS 1.4 board fried?" Tags="|arduino-mega-2650|ramps|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20214" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-11-14T18:57:59.560" Score="1" ViewCount="357" Body="&lt;p&gt;The extruder makes a weird sound like moving an old door without an oily hinge - both when advancing or retracting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This video shows the problem:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.veed.io/view/055d1724-838a-48d1-98d7-8eaf3076ea2b?panel=share&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.veed.io/view/055d1724-838a-48d1-98d7-8eaf3076ea2b?panel=share&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did everything, but the noise was still there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Everything seems OK. I am trying to figure out what I should do. I took pictures from inside the extruder and shared them below.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aXJO2.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aXJO2.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7bXix.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7bXix.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/K9WTc.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/K9WTc.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/W4k5J.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/W4k5J.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZmqUR.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZmqUR.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36080" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2022-11-16T15:53:28.597" LastActivityDate="2022-11-16T15:53:28.597" Title="Why the extruder is making this noise? CR10 Smart Pro" Tags="|extruder|extrusion|creality-cr-10|creality|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20218" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20213" CreationDate="2022-11-15T12:47:39.590" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is quite likely that something else (other than the stepper drivers) on the RAMPS board (and maybe even the Mega) has been damaged as well... The Mega board may still execute code correctly but maybe a random component has been damaged that you won't notice until it gets used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It most probably would be possible to test both boards to locate the exact issue and faulty component, given enough time and patience.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The best thing to do, initially, is to look closely for any component that looks shot/burnt, or smells bad. It may sound odd but smelling a board can sometimes (but not always) locate the general area where a component has failed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another (more logical) approach would be to look at the schematic of the RAMPS to follow the circuits connected to the contacts that you shorted. Then check the components along that path. This method often is the most fruitful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming that you have a &lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/wiki/RAMPS_1.4&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;RAMPS 1.4&lt;/a&gt; (you don't specify which version you have), there is the schematic:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WJjTe.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;RAMPS 1.4 Schematic&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WJjTe.png&quot; alt=&quot;RAMPS 1.4 schematic&quot; title=&quot;RAMPS 1.4 Schematic&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, even if you are lucky enough to locate the damaged component, do you have the skills to replace a SMD component?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sadly, to be honest, it is probably cheaper, easier and quicker to just first buy a new RAMPS and substitute that in. The test to see if everything works OK. If the issue is still not resolved, then buy a new Mega and repeat the test.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4762" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2022-11-15T20:43:34.193" LastActivityDate="2022-11-15T20:43:34.193" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20219" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11984" CreationDate="2022-11-15T18:26:42.743" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Currently on 2.1.1 it is just&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#define PROBING_MARGIN&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Configurations/blob/import-2.1.x/config/default/Configuration.h#L1500&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;line 1500&lt;/a&gt; of &lt;code&gt;Configuration.h&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#define PROBING_MARGIN 10&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36095" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2022-11-15T20:19:09.723" LastActivityDate="2022-11-15T20:19:09.723" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20220" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-11-16T18:44:28.420" Score="0" ViewCount="90" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am getting very bad surface quality on an Ender 3 Pro.&#xA;My last prints are a disaster like in the picture. The filament is PLA.&#xA;How to improve from here?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For reference: the filament was bought a few days ago and I did not dry it. I am using a 0.4 mm nozzle at a temperature of 215 °C. Speed is set to 50 mm/s.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5YlDB.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Photo of a 3D printed model with very bad surface quality&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5YlDB.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Photo of a 3D printed model with very bad surface quality&quot; title=&quot;Photo of a 3D printed model with very bad surface quality&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36109" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2022-11-16T20:21:51.617" LastActivityDate="2022-11-16T20:21:51.617" Title="very bad surface quality" Tags="|surface|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20221" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-11-17T08:27:55.220" Score="3" ViewCount="240" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm having some problem with my Ender 3. I have been printing for almost a year with good results. Then, all of a sudden, the fan started to be noisy and the prints came out definitely not good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From what I understood looking around, the problem could be under extrusion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I replaced the fan (both of them actually) but the prints keep coming out badly. The software is always the same (Cura) and I never changed any parameter whatsoever.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is what I tried so far:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;printing with (four) different filaments (always PLA though).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;changing the E-steps&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;unclogging and replacing the nozzle (twice)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;re-calibrating Z like a million times&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;printing different projects, included those who I already successfully printed before&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;-&amp;gt; Nothing helped!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then I was forced to also change the software (because my PC died...) But even with the new version nothing changed.&#xA;Now the extruder calibration is okay (I print 10 cm and 10 cm of filament are consumed through a hot nozzle).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Increasing the flow by 5 % and the temperature by 10 °C (I'm now printing at 220 °C....) actually gives better results (the calibration cube is more definite and more solid) even if under extrusion is still appreciable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Calibration cubes:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pjHYz.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Calibration cubes (before and after increasing flow and temp)&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pjHYz.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Calibration cubes (before and after increasing flow and temp)&quot; title=&quot;Calibration cubes (before and after increasing flow and temp)&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Printing example:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/54sFZ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Printing example&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/54sFZ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Printing example&quot; title=&quot;Printing example&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know what else to try!!!&#xA;Can someone help me?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36114" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2022-11-17T11:37:30.653" LastActivityDate="2022-12-18T21:29:00.703" Title="Under extrusion with Ender3" Tags="|creality-ender-3|underextrusion|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20222" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20221" CreationDate="2022-11-17T11:50:20.057" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You are pushing 10 cm through a hot nozzle for calibration, this is sometimes different in terms of pushing it under load (back pressure from the deposition/squishing of the filament). Although the correct calibration, the prints are under extruded, so there is too less filament delivered to the nozzle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This hints to a problem with the extruder; these type of extruders are known not to be the best type of extruders, common problems with these extruders are a lack of idler wheel tension, broken and cracked extruder lever and wearing out of the brass extruder gear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should closely check the extruder during printing, it is expected that not enough filament is pushed forward to the hot end. You could increase the tension on the lever, but is is probably best to invest in a better Bowden extruder, preferably using a dual gear and/or using a gear ratio (for more torque). Note that you may require buying a new stepper motor as well: &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/15131/problems-with-stock-gear-with-no-screw-on-ender-3-pro&quot;&gt;Problems with stock gear with no screw on Ender 3 pro&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2022-11-17T11:50:20.057" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20224" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15732" CreationDate="2022-11-18T08:22:48.937" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;As you can see on picture 1, on the left-bottom side there is extruded less material than on the right-top side. This, to me, is an indication that your bed might not be flat. When the left-bottom side is a few microns closer to the nozzle than the right-top side, the nozzle will push onto the bed and that prevents it from extruding. A sign of this will be extruder skipping.&#xA;As you mentioned, keeping the fan at least running slowly during raft creation is always a good idea.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4708" LastActivityDate="2022-11-18T08:22:48.937" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20225" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15732" CreationDate="2022-11-18T14:46:02.357" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have noticed that the heat sink is hot to the touch during the raft creation but cools off once the fan starts spinning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The fan cooling the hot end should always be &amp;quot;on&amp;quot; when you start the printer, or at least cool the hot end when the print starts (it is possible if you use a Raspberry Pi and OctoPrint to control relays to have the fan switch on just before starting printing).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If not, the cold end (radiator) of the hot end gets to hot and your filament will soften way too soon. This phenomenon is called heat creep. Looking at the filament you pictured, heat creep is definitely a possible cause. Another good hint is the diminishing filament output.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It may be that the radiator cooling fan is accidentally connected to the incorrect port on the controller board. What you describe is a fan kicking in after the first layer of printing, this is typical behavior of the part cooling fan.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2022-11-18T14:46:02.357" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20226" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20315" CreationDate="2022-11-18T18:00:46.553" Score="2" ViewCount="75" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've just bought my first 3D printer, and I've started playing with it. But apparently, I have the problem that the raft won't stick. I mean, it sticks, for iteration (layer) or two, and after that it just disconnects. This is what I've checked until now:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bed is leveled properly, including Z, tried different variation of offsets&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Temperature of both bed and nozzle are okay (70 and 210 °C, it is PLA filament)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Received slightly better results with adhesive for 3D printers, but still not ideal&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, I've came up to the idea: I would like to try to interconnect each line in one layer (iteration) with thicker dot of melted filament for better adhesion. Unfortunately, I don't know how to setup this parameter in slicing software (Cura). Does anyone eventually know where I can find this parameter in Cura? In addition, here it is the extract of the GCODE:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;;FLAVOR:Marlin&#xA;;TIME:8750&#xA;;Filament used: 3.97836m&#xA;;Layer height: 0.15&#xA;;MINX:45.401&#xA;;MINY:52.901&#xA;;MINZ:0.36&#xA;;MAXX:154.6&#xA;;MAXY:147.099&#xA;;MAXZ:31.035&#xA;;Generated with Cura_SteamEngine 5.2.1&#xA;M140 S45&#xA;M105&#xA;M190 S45&#xA;M104 S210&#xA;M105&#xA;M109 S210&#xA;M82 ;absolute extrusion mode&#xA;G28 ;Home&#xA;G1 Z15.0 F6000 ;Move the platform down 15mm&#xA;;Prime the extruder&#xA;G92 E0&#xA;G1 F200 E3&#xA;G92 E0&#xA;G92 E0&#xA;G92 E0&#xA;G1 F1500 E-6.5&#xA;;LAYER_COUNT:199&#xA;;LAYER:-7&#xA;M107&#xA;G0 F7200 X49.177 Y57.705 Z0.36&#xA;;TYPE:SUPPORT-INTERFACE&#xA;G1 F1500 E0&#xA;G1 F1350 X48.447 Y58.574 E0.05124&#xA;G1 X47.809 Y59.466 E0.10075&#xA;G1 X47.23 Y60.43 E0.15151&#xA;G1 X46.778 Y61.31 E0.19618&#xA;&#xA;...&#xA;&#xA;;TIME_ELAPSED:8750.646320&#xA;G1 F1500 E835.92386&#xA;M140 S0&#xA;M104 S0&#xA;M140 S0&#xA;;Retract the filament&#xA;G92 E1&#xA;G1 E-1 F300&#xA;G28 X0 Y0&#xA;M84&#xA;M82 ;absolute extrusion mode&#xA;M104 S0&#xA;;End of Gcode&#xA;;SETTING_3 {&amp;quot;global_quality&amp;quot;: &amp;quot;[general]\\nversion = 4\\nname = Normal #2\\ndefi&#xA;;SETTING_3 nition = custom\\n\\n[metadata]\\ntype = quality_changes\\nquality_ty&#xA;;SETTING_3 pe = fast\\nsetting_version = 20\\n\\n[values]\\nadhesion_type = raft&#xA;;SETTING_3 \\nmaterial_bed_temperature = 45.0\\n\\n&amp;quot;, &amp;quot;extruder_quality&amp;quot;: [&amp;quot;[gen&#xA;;SETTING_3 eral]\\nversion = 4\\nname = Normal #2\\ndefinition = custom\\n\\n[me&#xA;;SETTING_3 tadata]\\ntype = quality_changes\\nquality_type = fast\\nsetting_vers&#xA;;SETTING_3 ion = 20\\nposition = 0\\n\\n[values]\\ncool_fan_enabled = False\\nin&#xA;;SETTING_3 fill_pattern = grid\\ninfill_sparse_density = 80\\nmaterial_print_tem&#xA;;SETTING_3 perature = 210.0\\nretraction_hop_enabled = True\\nspeed_print = 60.0&#xA;;SETTING_3 \\n\\n&amp;quot;]}&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36135" LastEditorUserId="36135" LastEditDate="2022-11-19T13:56:14.830" LastActivityDate="2022-12-13T15:36:24.520" Title="Stronger connection (thicker point) between two lines" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|pla|adhesion|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20227" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20226" CreationDate="2022-11-18T22:28:28.803" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your work-around is a description to resolve a problem without resolving the problem. A properly tuned 3D printer will place the first layer on the bed (without a raft!) in such a manner as to allow the entire print to be completed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Consider to print a single layer rectangle created in any software with which you are comfortable. A rectangle of 100 mm square would be large enough for analysis. Also, edit your question to reflect the current layer thickness and speeds you are using.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The single layer should present uniform width as the filament is applied to the bed. Each adjacent &amp;quot;stripe&amp;quot; should have minimal overlap with the previously applied stripe. Too much overlap (excessive extrusion factor) will create bulges between stripes. Insufficient overlap will result in gaps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This rectangle print will provide feedback for your bed leveling as well as the z-offset. Excessive z-offset will reduce the grip of the filament to the bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using adhesive and having poor results leads me to suggest the first layer is at a too-high z-offset, but your test will provide a better answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even though I've seen a few references to PLA not requiring drying, PLA and other filament types can have problems with bed adhesion if there is too much humidity absorbed into the filament. Consider to dry your spool for four to six hours to see if improvement will result.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lastly, you should not need to use a raft, unless a specific aspect of your model requires it. I've seen rafts &amp;quot;required&amp;quot; in low quality, low cost, low performance 3D printers with poor bed planar characteristics. One will hope your printer is not in that category.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastActivityDate="2022-11-18T22:28:28.803" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20229" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15797" CreationDate="2022-11-20T03:16:28.850" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;A friend and I ran into this problem with TH3D and this was the workaround for &lt;strong&gt;our&lt;/strong&gt; situation. Pretty sure I know what's causing it, but I haven't had the chance to rebuild the firmware yet to test it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Autohome, update your bed mesh, either through the menu or via the terminal with &lt;code&gt;G28&lt;/code&gt; &amp;amp; &lt;code&gt;G29&lt;/code&gt;. Store settings via menu or &lt;code&gt;M500&lt;/code&gt; via terminal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Reboot/power cycle the printer, autohome/&lt;code&gt;G28&lt;/code&gt;, and insert &lt;code&gt;M420 S&lt;/code&gt; into your print file G-code &lt;strong&gt;after&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;code&gt;G28&lt;/code&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let me know if it works.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36152" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2022-11-20T04:12:26.597" LastActivityDate="2022-11-20T04:12:26.597" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20230" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20234" CreationDate="2022-11-20T14:33:59.757" Score="3" ViewCount="103" Body="&lt;p&gt;When designing for 3d FDM printing, I'm wondering what is best practice for items with large overhangs which cannot have (or would be fairly impractical) support structures. Consider my following design:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Rfmyd.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Rfmyd.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This item is about 7&amp;quot; long, and you'll notice the narrow slot running through the middle of it. The slot is 0.100&amp;quot; wide.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was about to print this when I suddenly realized printing it would be a problem. So I started messing around with painting on supports, but since something slides in this slot, I would have to do some extensive cleanup to make sure it's smooth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I ended up doing was splitting the body at the start of the overhang, and placing some alignment pins in the body (with corresponding holes in the upper portion of the body. e.g.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ypGmc.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ypGmc.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I will print the top and bottom separately and glue them together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is whether this is my only option or if I'm missing something in the design process which might work better? This design is in Fusion360, in case that matters when discussing some specific tools that are available which I'm unaware of.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="35664" LastActivityDate="2022-11-27T13:17:30.060" Title="Design Considerations for Large Overhangs" Tags="|3d-design|support-structures|fusion360|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20233" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20273" CreationDate="2022-11-20T17:18:53.757" Score="0" ViewCount="385" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an Ender 3 Pro with the direct drive upgrade, aluminum extruder (The same problem happened with the plastic one), double-sided bed default black on one side and PEI on the other (Happens with both), aluminum adjustment knobs for bed with better springs, and upgraded spool holder with ball bearings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Things I have done to try to fix this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Add aluminum extruder&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Upgraded spool holder with ball bearings&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Calibrated my E-steps&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Upgraded firmware&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Stopped using OctoPi&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Switched build surface (The only one that I could try that I have on hand is glass but that didn't work the last time I tried it)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tightened belts&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Printed calibration cube&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Printed temp tower&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Printed retraction tower&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Printed retraction speed tower&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Looked up YouTube videos&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cleaned motherboard (There was dust in there)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Those all failed and I have no idea what this is or how to get rid of it, please help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Settings:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Layer height: 0.2 mm (I haven't tried a different layer height)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Print speed: 40 mm/s (I have tried slower/faster)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Nozzle temperature: 195 °C (I have tried higher)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Infill density: 15 % pattern: cubic (I have tried different infill patterns and density)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cooling: 100 %&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm afraid there is literally nothing else I could possibly do at this point except replace/tune mechanical parts, which I have tried.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lh0wA.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Photo of a calibration cube with irregularities on the surfaces&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lh0wA.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Photo of a calibration cube with irregularities on the surfaces&quot; title=&quot;Photo of a calibration cube with irregularities on the surfaces&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36162" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2022-11-20T22:01:31.403" LastActivityDate="2022-11-30T23:30:52.447" Title="Ender 3 Pro Direct Drive weird/small blobs?" Tags="|creality-ender-3|print-quality|calibration|direct-drive|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20234" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20230" CreationDate="2022-11-20T20:33:40.940" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;When constructing a model intended to be 3D printed, your approach is sound. Overhangs and the required supports can be a severe problem and I believe your assessment is accurate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The complexity of the upper portion would make printed supports an inappropriate path for the reasons you've provided, while your solution eliminates all the negative aspects of this model's construction/design.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The split as presented turns an excessively supported print into two completely unsupported, easily-printed sections. The alignment pins are the perfect approach as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You've not indicated an aversion to adhesive, another plus in the overall assessment. Printing the model(s) in the orientation displayed is going to provide the most strength from the plastic. In some models, one can change the orientation to eliminate or reduce supports, but too often the layer direction change results in a weaker object. Your split design removes that factor as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastActivityDate="2022-11-20T20:33:40.940" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20236" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20099" CreationDate="2022-11-21T13:14:45.950" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Note that the extruder feeds filament it doesn't heat anything, you don't want heat in the extruder. The hot end is the part that adds heat well over the glass temperature.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Glass_transition&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;glass transition temperature&lt;/a&gt;, the temperature where the material transitions from a brittle &amp;quot;glassy&amp;quot; state into a viscous or rubbery state, is always lower than the melting temperature. This temperature is of importance for adhesion to the bed; in a rubbery state the stresses are much lower than in a brittle state.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is a thermoplastic's glass state relevant for 3D printing extrusion?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;No, the glass transition temperature is not directly important for the extrusion, the extrusion temperature (where the filament is fluid enough for deposition and adhesion) is much higher than the glass temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Yes, the glass transition temperature may play a role in the hot end in case of heat creeping up the cold end (usually some kind of radiator or heat dissipating element; usually connected through the heat-break), but not necessarily in melting the filament for extrusion. Heat creeping up with excessive retraction may cause filament to (partially or fully) clog and as such influence the extrusion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2022-11-21T13:14:45.950" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20237" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-11-22T03:59:55.603" Score="0" ViewCount="28" Body="&lt;p&gt;In a 3D printer (or any other CNC application really) where a lead screw is part of a motion system, there is a design choice to be made. . .&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Drive the lead screw, having the lead screw nut fixed in place.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Drive the lead screw nut, having the lead screw itself fixed in place.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are &amp;quot;claimed&amp;quot; pros and cons to each path. Specifically, driving the lead screw is mechanically far simpler (install a flexible coupler between the motor and lead screw, and you're done!) but has apparent problems with accuracy because of shaft wobble, as well as speed because of fighting high rotational inertia. Driving the lead screw nut, on the other hand, is mechanically more complex, but has a fixed (supposedly &lt;strong&gt;low&lt;/strong&gt;!) inertia for &lt;strong&gt;any&lt;/strong&gt; lead screw lengths as well as more manageable wobble characteristics. (It should be noted at this point that most professional, high-performance systems do indeed drive the lead screw nut.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Operating under the above ostensible wisdom, I was planning a new 3D printer build based on the concept of a lead nut drive. While making an efficient and affordable parts list, I was noting that the taper bearings I found most reasonable to use to make the nut drive, as small as they are, are still quite the mass of steel. Furthermore, the diameter of the rotating bearing mass is quite a bit larger than my preferred lead screw diameter. Since I would assume the radius squared term in the equation for rotational inertia takes some kind of key stand here, and my lead screws themselves could be any conceivable length, I started to question the wisdom that it's &amp;quot;always&amp;quot; more performant to drive the lead nut.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An extreme counter-example is if one used something like two sets of LM67048/LM67010 cone/cup pairs, where a single cone weighs in at &amp;gt;100 g, and has an outer diameter of &amp;gt;16 mm, which ends up being &amp;gt;200 g of rotating mass just in bearings (accounting for two cones), plus the rest of the nut weight. Then, combine this with 300 mm of 8 mm lead screw, which may only weigh ~90 g, and suddenly it just doesn't feel like it would be easier to abruptly accelerate all that nut hardware than it would to just drive the lead screw directly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm at a minor impasse here, because I don't know &amp;quot;for certain&amp;quot; how to go about making the decision in a clear and quantifiable way. Should one just multiply the mass by the diameter squared, to get the rotational inertia, and use that as an apples-to-apples comparison across any body we may want to rotate, i.e. taking the smaller number as the winner? Is that good enough?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36181" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2022-11-22T05:18:51.130" LastActivityDate="2022-11-22T05:18:51.130" Title="How to quantify the dividing line between choosing a driven lead screw system vs. driven lead nut system?" Tags="|linear-motion|lead-screw|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20240" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-11-23T14:35:05.120" Score="1" ViewCount="77" Body="&lt;p&gt;These are metal inserts for 3D prints:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2ra12.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Photo of threaded brass inserts&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2ra12.png&quot; alt=&quot;Photo of threaded brass inserts&quot; title=&quot;Photo of threaded brass inserts&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I want to do is use them as a connector. A metal pin will insert them (the male connector) and it will have contact with the metal inserts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I just want to have connectivity with a PCB as well, via soldering cables.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So my question is, are there metal inserts that have outputs where I can solder wires?&#xA;Or, maybe metal inserts that end up as a solder cup?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For reference, these are solder cups:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DMwb9.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Photo of a solder cup&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DMwb9.png&quot; alt=&quot;Photo of a solder cup&quot; title=&quot;Photo of a solder cup&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT:&#xA;Perhaps if i add the dimensions of the male pin, it can make the process of answering easier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/F6mLt.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/F6mLt.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The male pin is &lt;code&gt;2.3 mm wide&lt;/code&gt; and &lt;code&gt;6mm high&lt;/code&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="903" LastEditorUserId="903" LastEditDate="2022-11-24T22:14:33.783" LastActivityDate="2022-11-24T22:14:33.783" Title="Metal insert of 3D print with solder cup" Tags="|post-processing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20241" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20240" CreationDate="2022-11-23T17:52:40.390" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You are looking for heat-insert female sockets...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/JST_connector&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;JST-connectors&lt;/a&gt; don't exist as heat set parts, but you could include a void for the socket to go in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can buy DuPont-style cups that lead to a thin pin, which then is pushed into the female connector. Those contain a piece that acts as a spring to ensure good connectivity. Those female connectors don't exist as heat-set but can be bought without a plastic shroud for mounting in your own hardware with defined holes by physical interaction with the shell.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What you want is an insert that is not threaded but has one or more springs on the inside that press on the pin, akin to a phone connector shown below, where the metal &amp;quot;legs&amp;quot; connect to the different sections and one at the base acts as locking. The most simple design of this type would be a mono plug that also offers ground and a way to give a solid connection between the parts. However, the design of the needed springy bits inside makes it impossible for these to exist as a heat-insert - you can't heat these evenly or melt a path.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2zSa7.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2zSa7.png&quot; alt=&quot;Inside of a Phone Connector jack&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only way to ensure good contact with a connecter that can be heat-set would either require the pin to screw into the insert, or the pin to be spring-loaded against a flat insert. The latter can be done by either using a solid metal slug as an inset or by retrofitting a normal inset with a screw that creates such a surface. However, spring-loaded connectors require some sort of physical interlock to get the parts in position and securely connected.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastActivityDate="2022-11-23T17:52:40.390" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20242" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-11-23T19:02:47.817" Score="4" ViewCount="118" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm a beginner with OpenSCAD. I use to work with Rhino, but I have no more license and the new Fablab I'm working with uses OpenSCAD, so I'm learning OpenSCAD now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The picture below shows what I want to do, I need this to be able to 3D print several parts to get a larger Möbius strip.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AQ1WA.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;3D rendering of a Mobius strip broken into four interlocking pieces&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AQ1WA.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;3D rendering of a Möbius strip broken into four interlocking pieces&quot; title=&quot;3D rendering of a Mobius strip broken into four interlocking pieces&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found these scripts:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;1.  /*&#xA;2.   * Möbius Strip&#xA;3.   *&#xA;4.   * r: radius of strip&#xA;5.   * w: width of strip&#xA;6.   * t: thickness of strip&#xA;7.   *&#xA;8.   * The model uses &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$fs to adjust the smoothness.&#xA;9.   */&#xA;10. module moebius_strip(r = 1, w = 1, t = 1) {&#xA;11.     step = $fs;&#xA;12.     for(azimuth = [0 : step : 360]) {&#xA;13.         x = r * cos(azimuth);&#xA;14.         y = r * sin(azimuth);&#xA;15.         translate([x, y, 0]) {&#xA;16.             rotate([0, azimuth/2, azimuth]) {&#xA;17.                 cube([t, step, w], center=true);&#xA;18.             }&#xA;19.         }&#xA;20.     }&#xA;21. }&#xA;22. &#xA;23. $&lt;/span&gt;fs = 0.5;&#xA;24. &#xA;25. moebius_strip(r = 30, w = 15, t = 1); &#xA;&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This one above is working and I found another one for the split :&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;module mycut() {&#xA;    translate([x,y,z]) cube([w,l,h]);&#xA;}&#xA;&#xA;difference() {&#xA;    myobject();&#xA;    mycut();&#xA;}&#xA;&#xA;translate([u,v,w])&#xA;intersection() {&#xA;    myobject();&#xA;    mycut();&#xA;}&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I simply don't know how to use those scripts together. Can someone explain to me a little bit about how I can manage this? Don't forget that I'm a beginner!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36198" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2022-11-25T11:21:46.863" LastActivityDate="2022-11-25T22:33:19.793" Title="Cut a Möbius strip in four parts with interlocking" Tags="|3d-models|openscad|pre-processing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20244" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20242" CreationDate="2022-11-24T13:04:25.153" Score="3" Body="&lt;h1&gt;Cutting to pieces&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To cut the ring into pieces you can take the &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikibooks.org/wiki/OpenSCAD_User_Manual/The_OpenSCAD_Language#intersection&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;intersection()&lt;/a&gt; of the object and the quadrant of interest (e.g. using a cube, but a wedge would have worked as well).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;/*&#xA; * Möbius Strip&#xA; *&#xA; * r: radius of strip&#xA; * w: width of strip&#xA; * t: thickness of strip&#xA; *&#xA; * The model uses &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$fs to adjust the smoothness.&#xA; */&#xA;module moebius_strip(r = 1, w = 1, t = 1) {&#xA;    step = $&lt;/span&gt;fs;&#xA;    for(azimuth = [0 : step : 360]) {&#xA;        x = r * cos(azimuth);&#xA;        y = r * sin(azimuth);&#xA;        translate([x, y, 0]) {&#xA;            rotate([0, azimuth/2, azimuth]) {&#xA;                cube([t, step, w], center=true);&#xA;            }&#xA;        }&#xA;    }&#xA;}&#xA;&#xA;$fs = 0.5;&#xA;&#xA;xloc=[0,1,-1,-1,1];&#xA;yloc=[0,1,1,-1,-1];&#xA;//quadrant = 4; // 1, 2, 3 or 4&#xA;for(quadrant  = [1 : 1 : 4])&#xA;intersection(){&#xA;    translate([xloc[quadrant]*10,yloc[quadrant]*10,0]) moebius_strip(r = 30, w = 15, t = 1); &#xA;    translate([xloc[quadrant]*10,yloc[quadrant]*10,-(30+15/2)/2]) rotate([0,0,(quadrant-1)*90]) cube(30+15/2);&#xA;}&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8tx2s.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Ring cut in quarts, display with offset&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8tx2s.png&quot; alt=&quot;Ring cut in quarts, display with offset&quot; title=&quot;Ring cut in quarts, display with offset&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since tabs and slots are requested, we need to make some adjustments.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Add/subtract tabs to piece&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All that is left to do is to cutout a &amp;quot;rectangular&amp;quot; shape at the interfaces. For that we glue or &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikibooks.org/wiki/OpenSCAD_User_Manual/The_OpenSCAD_Language#union&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;union()&lt;/a&gt; a tab on one side and extrude or &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikibooks.org/wiki/OpenSCAD_User_Manual/The_OpenSCAD_Language#difference&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;difference()&lt;/a&gt; a tab on the other side, a wedge is used for the &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikibooks.org/wiki/OpenSCAD_User_Manual/The_OpenSCAD_Language#intersection&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;intersection()&lt;/a&gt; with a smaller sized width Mobius strip.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;echo(version=version());&#xA;//debug = 0;&#xA;//explode = &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$preview ? 0.1 : 0.0;&#xA;//$&lt;/span&gt;fn = &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$preview ? 90 : 360;&#xA;//nearly_zero = $&lt;/span&gt;preview ? 0.005: 0.0;&#xA;tol = 0.01;&#xA;/*&#xA; * Möbius Strip&#xA; *&#xA; * r: radius of strip&#xA; * w: width of strip&#xA; * t: thickness of strip&#xA; *&#xA; * The model uses &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$fs to adjust the smoothness.&#xA; */&#xA;module moebius_strip(r = 1, w = 1, t = 1) {&#xA;step = $&lt;/span&gt;preview ? 2 : 0.5;&#xA;    for(azimuth = [0 : step : 360]) {&#xA;        x = r * cos(azimuth);&#xA;        y = r * sin(azimuth);&#xA;        translate([x, y, 0]) {&#xA;            rotate([0, azimuth/2, azimuth]) {&#xA;                cube([t, step, w], center=true);&#xA;            }&#xA;        }&#xA;    }&#xA;}&#xA;&#xA;module wedge(h,r,a)&#xA;{&#xA;    th=(a%360)/2;&#xA;    difference()&#xA;    {&#xA;        cylinder(h=h,r=r,center=true);&#xA;        if(th&amp;lt;90)&#xA;        {&#xA;            for(n=[-1,1])rotate(-th*n)translate([(r+0.5)*n,0,0])&#xA;                cube(size=[r*2+1,r*2+1,h+1],center=true);&#xA;        }&#xA;        else&#xA;        {&#xA;            intersection()&#xA;            {&#xA;                rotate(-th)translate([(r+0.5),(r+0.5),0])&#xA;                    cube(size=[r*2+1,r*2+1,h+1],center=true);&#xA;                rotate(th)translate([-(r+0.5),(r+0.5),0])&#xA;                    cube(size=[r*2+1,r*2+1,h+1],center=true);&#xA;            }&#xA;        }&#xA;    }&#xA;}&#xA;&#xA;xloc=[0,1,-1,-1, 1]; // vector indexed by the quadrant, negative value is the negative x-axis&#xA;yloc=[0,1, 1,-1,-1]; // vector indexed by the quadrant, negative value is the negative y-axis&#xA;offsetVal=0; // can be used to explode the view&#xA;quadrant = 1; // 1, 2, 3 or 4 resp. for xy, -xy, -x-y or x-y&#xA;//for(quadrant = [1 : 1 : 4]){ // now commented to used single single quadrant&#xA;    difference(){ // for extruding the tab&#xA;        union(){ // for adding the tab&#xA;            intersection(){&#xA;                translate([xloc[quadrant]*offsetVal,yloc[quadrant]*offsetVal,0]) moebius_strip(r = 30, w = 15, t = 1); // Mobius belt&#xA;                translate([xloc[quadrant]*offsetVal,yloc[quadrant]*offsetVal,-(30+15/2)/2]) rotate([0,0,(quadrant-1)*90]) cube(30+15/2); // quadrant cube&#xA;            }&#xA;            intersection(){&#xA;                moebius_strip(r = 30, w = 7.5, t = 1); // Mobius belt with smaller width&#xA;                rotate([0,0,(quadrant-1)*90]){&#xA;                   wedge((30+15/2), (30+15/2), 10); // intersect with wedge to get a tab that extends the quadrant piece&#xA;                }&#xA;            }&#xA;        }&#xA;        intersection(){&#xA;            moebius_strip(r = 30, w = 7.5, t = 1+tol); // Mobius belt with smaller width and increased thickness for better cutting out negative tab&#xA;            rotate([0,0,(quadrant-2)*90]){&#xA;               wedge((30+15/2), (30+15/2), 10); // intersect with wedge to get a tab that extrudes the quadrant piece&#xA;            }&#xA;        }&#xA;    }&#xA;//}&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4eKxx.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Quadrant 1 piece with tabs&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4eKxx.png&quot; alt=&quot;Quadrant 1 piece with tabs&quot; title=&quot;Quadrant 1 piece with tabs&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that this takes some time to render (F6), the preview (F5) didn't even show because of too much elements. Just change the value of &lt;code&gt;quadrant = 1;&lt;/code&gt; to 2, 3 or 4 for the other segments.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Pblbg.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Quadrant 2 piece with tabs&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Pblbg.png&quot; alt=&quot;Quadrant 2 piece with tabs&quot; title=&quot;Quadrant 2 piece with tabs&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Please note that the image from the question is not what is created with the Mobius script, to generate that object &lt;code&gt;rotate([0, azimuth/2, azimuth])&lt;/code&gt; needs to be changed to &lt;code&gt;rotate([0, azimuth, azimuth]&lt;/code&gt;)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rc8Vg.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Model from question&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rc8Vg.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; title=&quot;Model from question&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2022-11-25T22:33:19.793" LastActivityDate="2022-11-25T22:33:19.793" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20245" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20246" CreationDate="2022-11-24T19:20:51.553" Score="1" ViewCount="840" Body="&lt;p&gt;Please reference the following page on Thingiverse:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5600770&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5600770&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is an insert for a bandsaw (the replaceable part that the blade passes through in the middle of the bandsaw's table), with holes to allow for dust to fall down and also be pulled down by airflow from a shop vacuum or dust collector.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am modeling my own version of this with my specific dimensions, but I thought I'd ask if it would be easier for the 3d printer to do round holes instead of the hexagonal ones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(For reference, the printer that I have access to is a Prusa i3 MK3S+, with a 0.4 mm nozzle).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: The fluidity of movement being better for circles is what I was expecting. When doing a circle, each small segment of straight line is only slightly different than the previous one, whereas the hexagonal hole would require abrupt changes. In my case, the final appearance is not critical since it's just to let dust fall through. The version with circular holes might be a bit stronger as it removes a bit less material. I used OpenSCAD to create the model, since my geometry is pretty straightforward. I was starting to mess around with FreeCAD (out of curiosity) but then I remembered that in OpenSCAD I used the trick of 'facet numbers = 6' to get the hexagons, so I just changed those to 60 (thank goodness for being able to define and use variables) to have the same placement of holes.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BwYFI.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BwYFI.png&quot; alt=&quot;Pic of both versions side by side&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The printer isn't mine, it's in a public library and I don't want to abuse it so I will only print the one with circular holes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36213" LastEditorUserId="36213" LastEditDate="2022-11-24T21:07:47.663" LastActivityDate="2022-11-24T21:07:47.663" Title="Vertical holes: round vs hexagonal" Tags="|prusa-i3|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20246" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20245" CreationDate="2022-11-24T20:08:22.173" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The g-code that drives a 3D printer, with some exceptions, converts circles to multiple segments of straight lines, very short straight lines. There is going to be a greater amount of math to be performed on many circles, while one could consider that if the hexagonal segments are sliced in a suitable manner, the result is going to be more linear, with lower demands in the mathematics aspect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's one aspect of the difference. Another aspect is the fluidity of movement. You may get a smoother extrusion with the circles as the travel distance versus speed is going to be more uniform in creating a circle, while creating a hexagon will result in a speed change at the corner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's only one person's opinion, but I feel that it's half of one, six dozen of the other. You get a trade-off from the processing load with a hexagon, but you might get a better appearance with the circles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are creating your own design (good!), would it be more difficult to create one of each? What program are you using to create this work?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastActivityDate="2022-11-24T20:08:22.173" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20247" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-11-25T07:45:19.720" Score="0" ViewCount="147" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yesterday I had filament that entangled on the spool and before I knew it, the printer told me to eject the filament. Unfortunately, then the filament broke. There is no way to fully unload it, no way to load new piece.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Long story short, I need to disassemble extruder-hotend assembly and fix whatever is broken. I'll manage, it's simple mechanical and electrical issue and I know my way around it. But, is there any chance to recover that print?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm lucky it failed at about the end of a layer. It's 0.3 mm layer height, so I can even use calipers to find out how many layers I do have. But how would I go about it now?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I used PrusaSlicer and the printer is a Prusa i3 MK3s+ so any specific guidance would be appreciated, but general guidance is also welcome.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dcsAW.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dcsAW.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Photo of the failed print&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20803" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2022-11-25T12:26:26.247" LastActivityDate="2022-11-25T14:11:33.777" Title="My extruder failed. Is there any hope to recover print?" Tags="|prusa-i3|print-failure|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2022-11-25T09:24:05.100" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20248" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20247" CreationDate="2022-11-25T08:44:11.970" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;In order to &amp;quot;resume&amp;quot; a failed print like this, you can edit the prints .gcode file accordingly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Measure the height at which the print failed&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Open the file, and search for when the printer starts the corresponding layer. How to search for this differs from slicer to slicer. In SuperSlicer, it's &amp;quot;move to next layer (XYZ)&amp;quot;. Searching for moves to the desired Z height might work too, but beware of false positives if you still use &amp;quot;Z hop&amp;quot; for some reason.&#xA;You may want to choose the layer above the measured height as a starting point since the nozzle might scrape over the printed parts if you try to print the same layer again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Delete everything from the line which moves the printer to the first layer up to when it moves to the layer you wish to resume printing from.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;If you use mesh bed leveling, you'll need to remove that too - or the printer might probe into the existing print. If your start G-code contains moves that might make the print head interfere with the existing print, remove that too.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Also: Make sure the print head moves to the desired Z height &lt;em&gt;before&lt;/em&gt; starting to move to the print area (on X and Y) - otherwise, it might again crash into the print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Start the print as usual and pray.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll be likely to see some defects/imperfections on the failed layer, but the print as a whole should be salvageable in most cases.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13171" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2022-11-25T14:11:33.777" LastActivityDate="2022-11-25T14:11:33.777" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20249" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18603" CreationDate="2022-11-25T10:28:26.390" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Late to the party, but for other people that stumble here with a similar problem i've seen a lot of people use a 0 top layers, 0 bottom layers settings to expose infill structure. That with a suitable infill pattern might give you a different slicing that might be faster to print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="34949" LastActivityDate="2022-11-25T10:28:26.390" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20250" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19499" CreationDate="2022-11-25T17:04:21.213" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Maybe try greasing the wheels. I've had a similar effect on a printer that I hadn't used for years. After reassembling it, the x carriage moved freely except at a few points, which were always at the same position. I had to apply more force to get past these points. I don't know whether that's your problem, but it sounds like. I greased the wheel's axles with a drop of oil at each wheel, and now it's running fine again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36226" LastEditorUserId="36226" LastEditDate="2022-11-25T17:05:02.000" LastActivityDate="2022-11-25T17:05:02.000" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20252" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-11-26T20:20:10.257" Score="1" ViewCount="18" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Raspberry Pi 4 running a complete instance of the RPi OS with few extras, although I usually boot to the terminal and not to the desktop. Primarily, my RPi is dedicated to running Octoprint for my 3D printer (a Creality CR-10 V3), which has worked great for a long time. With 8 GB of RAM and a 128 GB micro SD card, it's not like my device is constrained on resources, so I am unsure why the Octoprint server intermittently becomes unavailable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Before anybody suggests it, as though I did something wrong, I should mention first that the Octopi image never worked well for me. I fought many noble battles against its mighty dragons before deciding I should ditch it. Therefore, I installed a standard RPi OS image and manually followed the steps to set up Octoprint. That was necessary because absolutely nothing I tried would prevent the WiFi connection from cutting in and out. I also have a solid power supply, so that's not the culprit either.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What makes this issue different than the WiFi issue I previously experienced is that my network connection on the RPi remains stable. Moreover, despite being unreachable (except locally), the Octoprint server has not gone down. I can also not connect via SSH, and the RPi no longer responds to pings. I verified this by attaching peripherals and loading the desktop. After becoming unreachable to my laptop, I confirmed that &lt;code&gt;localhost:5000&lt;/code&gt; remains available on the RPi, and there is an internet connection, so what gives? The server is up and running just fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whenever this happens, if I am using Windows Remote Desktop, the connection there also goes down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems like a firewall is blocking the connection, but that makes no sense. My anti-virus is not blocking it, and I don't see any firewalls in my RPi. To no avail, I already tried disabling the firewalls on my computer. The only thing that re-establishes connectivity, it seems, is restarting the RPi. But occasionally, it comes back on its own if I wait a long time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a pattern here, though. The server/RPi becomes unreachable anytime I perform bed leveling. With some luck, connectivity sometimes comes back after finishing, but most of the time, it does not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Version information:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Linux Raspberry Pi 5.15.76-v8+ (x64)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;OctoPrint 1.8.6&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="33855" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2022-11-26T21:02:27.767" LastActivityDate="2022-11-26T21:02:27.767" Title="RPi unreachable over network after bed leveling" Tags="|octoprint|raspberry-pi|linux|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20253" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-11-26T22:35:54.907" Score="3" ViewCount="161" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm using:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Workbee CNC&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;SKR1.4 Turbo with TMC5160&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Marlin 2.0&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Steppers suddenly disabled during job. But, they get back working as soon as you restart the machine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've had the problem twice with this setup. Once with the Z-axis and once with the Y-axis (that uses two steppers, one keeps on working while the other was disabled).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I had the problem in Z-axis, I decided to lower current on that axis from 2 A to 1.9 A. It's already 1.5 A for both steppers on the Y-axis.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just switching off and on the machine is enough to let steppers work again say it seems not to be a wiring problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any clue? Any advice is welcome.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36232" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2022-11-27T17:07:30.873" LastActivityDate="2022-12-22T18:28:07.900" Title="Steppers suddenly disabled during job" Tags="|marlin|stepper-driver|print-failure|bigtreetech|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20254" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20230" CreationDate="2022-11-27T12:24:41.320" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If your end product allows it, one possible solution would be to remodel your part so that instead of having a square channel in the center, the channel had sloping or curved sides so that the overhand was removed, and then to print out an infill piece that could be clotted into the channel to square it off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In essence, you would turn the square channel into a triangular notch with shallow sides that didn't need supporting, and then you restore it to being square after it's printed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This would also have the advantage of meaning that you could print the infill to a much higher standard than the rest of the print, so it was stronger.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="29097" LastActivityDate="2022-11-27T12:24:41.320" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20255" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20230" CreationDate="2022-11-27T13:12:10.273" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;While slicing into slabs and the use of alignment pins is a perfectly viable solution, including the alignment features organically into a single print can make assembly faster. In this case, the model itself acts as an alignment feature or might even act as the clamp, at the cost of creating a more complex cut. An additional benefit of a more complex cut is the elimination of separate alignment pins and getting the glue surfaces away from parts that need a critical dimension&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As an example, I used an approximation of your model and shifted the cut layer around some (more complex) to get a natural left-right alignment feature from the deep cut, and then added a high &amp;quot;peak&amp;quot; on the model to act as a front-back alignment feature. The yellow faces ensure alignment in this case, and the red faces are main glue faces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NMlwx.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NMlwx.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, keep in mind point orientation can alter things &lt;em&gt;a lot&lt;/em&gt;: printing on the &amp;quot;back&amp;quot; as we both modeled, the slot needs support. However, there is an orientation that remove the need to support the slot's top and instead only requires support in the pocket, possibly eliminating the need for a two-part print at the cost of needing to remove the support in the area marked red, but which, as a pocket without undercuts, should be decently easy:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TT8nE.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TT8nE.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2022-11-27T13:17:30.060" LastActivityDate="2022-11-27T13:17:30.060" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20256" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-11-27T21:03:39.690" Score="1" ViewCount="2030" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have Ender 3 which I bought in 2018.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Thigs I have done so far to the printer;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Installed a BIGTREETECH SKR V1.3 board.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;With TMC2130 drivers.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Flashed the new Marlin 2.1.1 (&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.mediafire.com/file/7gd8bn8c1dudzn1/Configuration.h/file&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Configuration.h&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.mediafire.com/file/nli2xkll2g4hkzy/Configuration_adv.h/file&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Configuration_adv.h&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Installed and configured ANTCLABS BLTouch v3.1&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Prints are sent through a Raspberry Pi 3b+ with OctoPrint 1.8.6&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I have mounted the heating plate on standoffs (not on springs).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;On top of the heating bed I have put a glass plate as my print surface.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Leveled the X gantry (&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4bFYH0X3qjk&amp;amp;t=796s&amp;amp;ab_channel=TheEdgeofTech&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;as per this video&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Did the &amp;quot;probe Z offset wizard&amp;quot; (&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fN_ndWvXGBQ&amp;amp;list=WL&amp;amp;index=1&amp;amp;ab_channel=TeachingTech&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;as per this video&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Did ABL Visualizer update.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Enabled baby stepping, but did not see an option when double clicking nor I see a menu item in &amp;quot;Tune&amp;quot; option.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Issue;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm having trouble getting my first layer perfect.&#xA;As the front prints are loose and back prints are squashed to the build plate.&#xA;Here is the first layer test print &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.mediafire.com/file/o46d2uedxqs8obl/firstlayer.gcode/file&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;file&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If what I understood so far about ABL is correct, when printing with a uneven bed surface, the z height will be adjusted according the probed data. But in this test print looks like it is not being compensated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Below is how my visualized bed mesh looks like (with those fixed standoffs).&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eX4oj.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eX4oj.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/N0yCX.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/N0yCX.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8PJv7.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8PJv7.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36243" LastActivityDate="2023-12-07T16:09:21.343" Title="Marlin bed leveling compensation not working" Tags="|marlin|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20257" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-11-27T22:53:28.390" Score="1" ViewCount="362" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently purchased some MatterHackers Quantum PLA and began printing on my Ender 3 Pro. I successfully printed three times with no problem, on the fourth print about 2 hours in, the extruder started to skip and make knocking noises. The filament completely stopped extruding. I originally thought it was just a basic clog and I took steps to fix the problem:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I disassembled the print head and found a small bit of filament in the Bowden tube and cut the clogged piece off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I cleaned out the heat sink and aluminum block of any debris&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Replaced with a new nozzle&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Tightened the spring on the extruder&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I’ve checked the teeth on the extruder gear and they didn’t seem to be worn down&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After all of this, I tried the same print again but printed at a nozzle temperature of 225 °C instead of the 215 °C I had it at originally, and it failed again near the same spot about 2 hours into the print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any advice I can get from anyone in the community as to why I’m having this problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36244" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2022-11-27T23:35:11.630" LastActivityDate="2022-11-27T23:35:11.630" Title="Ender 3 Pro extruder skipping and knocking, tried multiple things" Tags="|creality-ender-3|pla|extruder|extrusion|print-failure|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20258" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20274" CreationDate="2022-11-28T02:04:34.673" Score="0" ViewCount="62" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm a student artist trying to use 3D printing in my practice a bit. I'm working with liquid light, which is essentially a photosensitive liquid that you can apply to surfaces and later develop in the darkroom. I'm hoping to do this on 3D models that I print and was looking for advice on a good filament to print with that would absorb the liquid light. The manufacturer of the liquid recommends using a semi-gloss or glossy clear polyurethane to treat nonabsorbent surfaces, but I was hoping to avoid this. Anything would be appreciated and helpful!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36246" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2022-11-28T05:18:04.273" LastActivityDate="2023-04-30T08:08:46.067" Title="3D printing filament that can absorb photosensitive liquid" Tags="|filament|filament-choice|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20261" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-11-28T12:19:36.923" Score="1" ViewCount="497" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm making a custom control board based on an ESP32, and I'm currently stuck at trying to configure a 16x2 LCD in Marlin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In &lt;code&gt;Configuration.h&lt;/code&gt;, there's an option for a &amp;quot;Generic LCM1602 LCD adapter&amp;quot;, which I've commented out. However, after searching thru everywhere in the source that came to my mind, I've yet to find any option for specifying the I2C pins or address the LCD backpack/adapter is connected to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could someone point me in the right direction, or where the LCD is instantiating, so I can modify the respective lines to make it work with my LCD? Any help would be greatly appreciated!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36257" LastActivityDate="2022-12-01T18:43:47.057" Title="Configuring HD44780 LCD with I2C backpack in Marlin" Tags="|marlin|lcd-screen|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20263" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20268" CreationDate="2022-11-28T15:48:48.973" Score="1" ViewCount="186" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an Elegoo Mars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have printed a figure in Resin, but after some months I found this - the figure is as if it is not completely cured. The base is open (see picture below). it wasn't open before!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It was printed a month ago, I am not precisely sure. I think I only machine cured and sunlight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How is this possible?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/l4bBJ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Base of 3D print&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/l4bBJ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Base of 3D print&quot; title=&quot;Base of 3D print&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="34515" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2022-11-29T09:52:08.270" LastActivityDate="2022-11-29T19:10:00.850" Title="Old printed object deformed over time" Tags="|resin|elegoo-mars|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20264" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20261" CreationDate="2022-11-28T21:21:03.693" Score="3" Body="&lt;h2&gt;I2C connection&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I may have not researched enough, or maybe I've mis-read various articles, but using I2C would seem to be (much) more tricky that a straightforward non-I2C connection, and might be a project unto itself. Unless you have a lot of time on your hands - or a need to minimise the number of pins used - it might not be worth the bother, and using a regular 1602 display instead probably makes more sense.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;G-code&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;This seems experimental, and possibly suffering from a lack of documentation&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are two G-code commands, &lt;a href=&quot;https://M260%20-%20I2C%20Send&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;code&gt;M260&lt;/code&gt; - I2C Send&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;https://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M261.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;code&gt;M261&lt;/code&gt; - I2C Request&lt;/a&gt; that require &lt;code&gt;EXPERIMENTAL_I2CBUS&lt;/code&gt;. The second link refers to an I2C master/slave article, by unfortunately, no link is provided (Ed. - if someone knows the link, then please edit it in).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;configuration.h&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;This seems to be most promising option&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Marlin configuration page, &lt;a href=&quot;https://marlinfw.org/docs/configuration/configuration.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Configuring Marlin&lt;/a&gt;, shows two interesting tables for I2C displays:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gIQFp.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;I2C LED display tables&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gIQFp.png&quot; alt=&quot;I2C LED display tables&quot; title=&quot;I2C LED display tables&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/kiyoshigawa/LiquidCrystal_I2C&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;LiquidCrystal I2C library&lt;/a&gt; that is referred to above each table.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;A Marlin issue on Github&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;This also seems hopeful&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/issues/10399&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;post&lt;/a&gt; on &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/issues/10399&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;I2C in Arduino for Marlin #10399&lt;/a&gt;,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;It's not too intensive. Many peripherals use i2c.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Marlin uses Wire on most platforms. Enable &lt;code&gt;EXPERIMENTAL_I2CBUS&lt;/code&gt; for a simplified interface in Marlin, and check out this thread (&lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/issues/4776#issuecomment-246262879&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Dual Serial Port #4776 (comment)&lt;/a&gt;) for insights into using i2c to talk to a second board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Yes, you can send data over i2c anytime. See the aforementioned thread for more insights into using the &lt;code&gt;EXPERIMENTAL_I2CBUS&lt;/code&gt; to test i2c communication.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;A working example&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;This option might be overkill&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This blog, &lt;a href=&quot;http://blog.think3dprint3d.com/2013/01/i2c-and-marlin.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;I2C Port Expander &amp;amp; LCD working with Marlin&lt;/a&gt;, actually has a working example of an I2C 2004 LCD. It also lists the changes required for &lt;code&gt;configuration.h&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, unfortunately, it requires an additional DIY I2C port expander PCB, which employs a MCP23017, which is detailed here, &lt;a href=&quot;http://blog.think3dprint3d.com/2012/12/mcp23017-i2c.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;I2C port expander driving an LCD screen, click encoder and more&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/skCox.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Schematic&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/skCox.png&quot; alt=&quot;Schematic&quot; title=&quot;Schematic&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An example of the revised v2.1 PCB is shown in a subsequent blog, &lt;a href=&quot;http://blog.think3dprint3d.com/2013/02/panelolu2.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Panelolu2&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/239mK.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Photo of PCB&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/239mK.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Photo of PCB&quot; title=&quot;Photo of PCB&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This requirement of additional hardware maybe more that you had expected. However, you could just use a breadboard to make this interface board (port expander).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Non-I2C connection&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to &lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?146,189158,189787#msg-189787&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this post&lt;/a&gt; on the RepRap forums, &lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?146,189158&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;MARLIN - generic LCD 16x2 (Megatronics 2 board)&lt;/a&gt;, the pins are defined in &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/blob/bugfix-2.1.x/Marlin/src/pins/pins.h&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;code&gt;../Marlin/src/pins/pins.h&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/a&gt; (the name of the file is a bit of a giveaway).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The following &lt;em&gt;might&lt;/em&gt; be useful as it shows the lines to change... but it obviously depends upon your board and upon whether your 1602 LCD has buttons or not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the Megatronics 2 board the lines and pin numbers seem to be as follows (from the &lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?146,189158,190062#msg-190062&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;final post&lt;/a&gt;):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;what it is now in Marlin:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#define SHIFT_CLK 38&#xA;#define SHIFT_LD 42&#xA;#define SHIFT_OUT 40&#xA;#define SHIFT_EN 17&#xA;&#xA;#define LCD_PINS_RS 16&#xA;#define LCD_PINS_ENABLE 17&#xA;#define LCD_PINS_D4 23&#xA;#define LCD_PINS_D5 25&#xA;#define LCD_PINS_D6 27&#xA;#define LCD_PINS_D7 29&#xA;*/ &#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;what it should be:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#define SHIFT_CLK 63&#xA;#define SHIFT_LD 42&#xA;#define SHIFT_OUT 17&#xA;#define SHIFT_EN 7&#xA;&#xA;#define LCD_PINS_RS 14&#xA;#define LCD_PINS_ENABLE 15&#xA;#define LCD_PINS_D4 30&#xA;#define LCD_PINS_D5 31&#xA;#define LCD_PINS_D6 32&#xA;#define LCD_PINS_D7 33  &#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Worth noting from &lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?146,189158,189229#msg-189229&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this post&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think the ULTRA_LCD is not the same as a generic 16x2 lcd without buttons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Additional reading&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another link (on the same forum) that may be useful is &lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?415,885957&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;How Do I Configure Pinouts For A LCD&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4762" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2022-12-01T18:43:47.057" LastActivityDate="2022-12-01T18:43:47.057" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20265" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-11-28T21:23:04.737" Score="2" ViewCount="63" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a height-adjustable table, but the height cannot be adjusted as a gear in the motor has worn out cogs and it will not spin. The motor is functional so the only thing I need is to somehow get a that particular part. I have tried searching for the motor itself on eBay, and I found one, but it would cost more than the table did and I dont want to do that unless I know there is no other option.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am inserting some images of the part and the engine&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KcpgU.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KcpgU.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4Xhrz.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4Xhrz.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gkHGk.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gkHGk.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I am searching/asking for, is some kind of database where I might find the 3D design or something like that. I have been trying to learn AutoCAD or a similar design tool, but for a beginner level this seems too complicated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36262" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2022-11-28T23:00:59.607" LastActivityDate="2022-11-29T00:03:51.717" Title="3D printing a part without experience in 3D design" Tags="|3d-design|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20266" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20265" CreationDate="2022-11-29T00:03:51.717" Score="2" Body="&lt;h2&gt;The part is ill-suited for FDM plastic printing due to design&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The part can certainly be printed on an FDM machine, but injection molded nylon is one of the best gear materials to begin with, and they fail in a very controlled manner that limits damage. PLA would shatter, ABS can't hold such loads, ASA is super hard to print...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;The part might be usable if SLS printed&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Nylon powder printing using Solid Laser Smelting might produce an appropriate replacement part, though of a slightly lesser quality than injection molded.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Check if you can find it in a catalog&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Often, these are industry-standard parts. Some of the biggest catalogs for industry standard parts, that also offer 3D models are &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.mcmaster.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;McMaster-Carr&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.rs-online.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;RS Components&lt;/a&gt;. If you can dimension our the part you need, you might find that part on their catalogs. As the motor carries german text, I assume you're in Europe, so McMaster-Carr sadly doesn't deliver there, but their CAD catalogue is better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Look for replacement parts or refurbishing kits&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your part has a number on its label - It's an &lt;strong&gt;OKIN OG 01&lt;/strong&gt;, with a specific design variant under its serial number. Used motors with gearboxes of this type sell for 30 €, and new motors with gearbox trade for 100-120 €... And their teeth gears are available as separate parts for about 15 €. The &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.dieolan.de/online-shop/riemenantriebe/og-32z-24-h-ipx4/#cc-m-product-9974214595&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;spare part listing I found&lt;/a&gt; incidentally shows that the gear you look at is a stack of two gears, one of them splined on the other:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/e4fU6.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/e4fU6.png&quot; alt=&quot;Schneckenrad 1-gängig für Riemenmotor von OKIN, Völker&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastActivityDate="2022-11-29T00:03:51.717" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20267" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20256" CreationDate="2022-11-29T09:46:46.673" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;What can be read from the visualization of your bed geometry is that the left side (when facing the printer) of the X-axis is lower than the right side, so your plate is tilted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If what I understood so far about ABL is correct, when printing with a uneven bed surface, the Z height will be adjusted according the probed data.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, true (see &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/16604/automatic-bed-leveling-abl-with-a-sensor-bltouch-inductive-capacitive-how&quot;&gt;Automatic Bed Leveling (ABL) with a sensor (BLTouch, inductive, capacitive), how does it work?&lt;/a&gt;), but that is a sales pitch, &lt;strong&gt;you don't want the bottom of every print to be skew&lt;/strong&gt;! A probe is not meant for those skew plates it should be used for local dips and dents in the build plate. ABL (or UBL, see &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/18451/what-is-abl-or-ubl-is-this-the-same&quot;&gt;What is ABL or UBL? Is this the same?&lt;/a&gt;) will scan the geometry of the build plate, but &lt;strong&gt;you still need to supply a bed as level as possible&lt;/strong&gt;. With the bed geometry results from the question, you need to level better! You should either shim the left side standoffs so that the bed is more level. A probe shouldn't have to compensate for the a skew plate, it can, but it should not. It is either wrongly trammed, or there is a hardware problem that is commonly found on these printers (X gantry is not parallel to the bed and has play, due to the cheap roller system and simple single driven lead screw design). &lt;em&gt;This is described below (to make a more complete answer) so that other readers that run into similar issues can use this information&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A possible alternative is that Looks like there is something wrong with your X-gantry, make sure the X-gantry is parallel to the bed, e.g. as seen in the following image:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NJqAw.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NJqAw.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This could be a result of lack of maintenance, considering the printer is from 2018, the frame needs to be checked. At the moment, the right side is closer (high X values), so either your bed is higher on the right side, but more likely (as you use fixed length stand-off's) the X gantry is tilting down on the right side (when facing the printer) and therefore reporting closer to the bed as if the bed is higher to the right, e.g. see adapted schematic:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KDg2g.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KDg2g.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a very common problem with the Ender 3 type, especially the single lead screw driven designs. To fix this permanently, installing a second lead screw is advised. As a quick fix, you need to inspect the complete roller system on both Z-axis posts and retighten them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An excellent example of the problems with the X-gantry is shown in this video:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/b3r0t7PvbHc?start=781&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;This video is a very good example for the problems with the portal style printers that use rollers for guiding the gantry.&lt;/strong&gt; Look at the play in the (X-Z) gantry, this would cause the exact same bed visualization as posted in the question (note that the video is centered on the installation and software changes, but the printer used has seen better days and should have been maintained prior to installing bed leveling).&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2023-12-07T16:09:21.343" LastActivityDate="2023-12-07T16:09:21.343" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20268" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20263" CreationDate="2022-11-29T09:50:22.527" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Those are cracks as a result of overstressing due internal stresses to further curing of the print over the course of time (stress cracks).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most probably the print wasn't cured properly or slicing wasn't optimal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2022-11-29T09:50:22.527" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20269" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20263" CreationDate="2022-11-29T19:10:00.850" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should probably cure more, but curing should not be complete during print, or the layer will not stick properly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, when you cure with UV light or the sun after the print is completed, you can cure only up to a certain depth, &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/13660/can-uv-cure-inside-opaque-or-more-massive-printed-object&quot;&gt;likely around a couple of millimetres&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your object was massive and you didn't &amp;quot;hollow it&amp;quot; then some resin got trapped inside it and it didn't cure properly initially. It may slowly cure later, but by the time the object cracks due to stress, some resin may still be liquid enough to cause the issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2338" LastActivityDate="2022-11-29T19:10:00.850" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20272" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20413" CreationDate="2022-11-30T13:11:23.057" Score="1" ViewCount="362" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to print an object on an Elegoo Mars 3, object which is generated layer by layer via other means.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So as input I have a series of BMP or PNG black and white images, one for layer, and I need to somehow assemble them to obtain a CTB printable file.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The solution can either involve generating a 3D model to be loaded in Chitubox, or it can involve generating directly a CTB file.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can do that?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2338" LastEditorUserId="2338" LastEditDate="2022-12-01T11:01:17.197" LastActivityDate="2023-01-02T15:53:31.540" Title="How to generate a file for resin printing from layer by layer images?" Tags="|slicing|resin|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20273" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20233" CreationDate="2022-11-30T23:30:52.447" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought a TL smoother which fixed the problem!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36162" LastActivityDate="2022-11-30T23:30:52.447" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20274" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20258" CreationDate="2022-12-01T07:53:49.217" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://help.prusa3d.com/article/fuzzy-skin_246186&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;PrusaSlicer&lt;/a&gt; (free, multi-platform) supports a feature known as fuzzy skin. Text below from linked page. Additionally, Cura slicer and Super Slicer also support this feature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Fuzzy skin feature lets you create a rough fiber-like texture on&#xA;the sides of your models. If enabled, the perimeter will be resampled&#xA;with a random step size and each new sample point will be shifted&#xA;inside or outside of the perimeter by a random length limited by the&#xA;Fuzzy skin thickness. This simple algorithm produces surprisingly nice&#xA;results suitable for tool handles or just to give the print surface a&#xA;new interesting look or to hide print imprecisions. You can also use&#xA;modifiers to apply fuzzy skin only to a portion of your model.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This would result in a roughened surface, if the right parameters were used, allowing surface tension to secure itself while the &amp;quot;outward&amp;quot; or fuzzy portion might prevent shearing or peeling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastActivityDate="2022-12-01T07:53:49.217" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20275" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-12-01T09:11:56.933" Score="2" ViewCount="805" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is it possible to tell Cura that the wall thickness should be equal not only horizontal but also on a vertical point of view?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Example:&#xA;This is how it would look on a curve when I set wall thickness to 4:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fhnGT.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fhnGT.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36196" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2022-12-01T11:12:47.627" LastActivityDate="2022-12-01T19:15:17.357" Title="Cura: Ensure wall thickness on curves" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|slicing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20276" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20275" CreationDate="2022-12-01T11:39:19.403" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;No&lt;/strong&gt;, the definition of wall thickness is in horizontal direction, not vertical or perpendicular. The hint info of the &amp;quot;Wall Thickness&amp;quot; option describes this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xwaJU.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Ultimaker Cura hint for 'Wall Thickness'&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xwaJU.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; title=&quot;Ultimaker Cura hint for 'Wall Thickness'&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, if you have very curved surfaces that require more walls, but you don't want to have all these walls in the whole print is use a technique described in question &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6522/different-infill-in-the-same-part&quot;&gt;Different infill in the same part&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/6523/&quot;&gt;This answer&lt;/a&gt; describes the use of a different infill percentage, but you can also change the amount of walls; so in these curved regions, you could locally increase the amount of walls, e.g.:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xlPe6.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Locally increased amount of walls&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xlPe6.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; title=&quot;Locally increased amount of walls&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2022-12-01T19:15:17.357" LastActivityDate="2022-12-01T19:15:17.357" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20277" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20286" CreationDate="2022-12-02T16:33:17.783" Score="1" ViewCount="50" Body="&lt;p&gt;I replaced my hotend's thoat and I made a mistake I hope it's not fatal for the new install. After reassembling the hotend I left a marging of about 5mm of the throat out of the heatsink. I noticed something was off when leveling the bed and then confirmed it after seeing more underextrusion artifacts than expected on a test print. I fixed it but now I'm worried about the debris left by the pocket made when I missed the throat depth (see pic below)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MAKKD.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MAKKD.png&quot; alt=&quot;throat misinstall&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The material used was PLA so that'll be most of the debris I guess. Is it that bad? I'm printing a second benchy right now which looks OK, but I'm worried about possible clogging in the future. This is an all-metal thoat, by the way&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36322" LastEditorUserId="36322" LastEditDate="2022-12-02T16:33:35.833" LastActivityDate="2022-12-05T16:08:04.187" Title="Missed hotend's thoat depth during install, is it too bad?" Tags="|hotend|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20278" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-12-02T17:22:48.740" Score="2" ViewCount="469" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a follow up question for &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/q/20196/20803&quot;&gt;What are viable substitutes for Raspberry Pi to run Octoprint or similar software for Prusa i3 MK3S+?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was able to grab Raspberry Pi 400 for around $70, so &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.raspberrypi.com/news/raspberry-pi-400-the-70-desktop-pc/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;at MSRP&lt;/a&gt;, and about half of the current pi 4b prices nowadays. Good deal given shortages, so I ordered it when it was available, and only now I started to think if I can really use it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thus, are there any special challenges to using Raspberry Pi 400 as OctoPrint server, and does it have any benefits over regular Pi 4B? Is there any ready-made manual about it I could use?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20803" LastEditorUserId="20803" LastEditDate="2022-12-03T00:10:38.880" LastActivityDate="2022-12-03T10:40:25.703" Title="Viability of Raspberry Pi 400 as Octoprint Server" Tags="|octoprint|raspberry-pi|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20279" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20278" CreationDate="2022-12-02T21:50:07.870" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The recommended hardware for OctoPi is &lt;a href=&quot;https://octoprint.org/download/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;listed&lt;/a&gt; as:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Recommended hardware: Raspberry Pi 3B, 3B+, 4B or Zero 2. Expect print artifacts and long loading times with other options, especially when adding a webcam or installing third-party plugins.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now if we compare the specification of the two Pi units:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;div class=&quot;s-table-container&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;table class=&quot;s-table&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;thead&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;th&gt;Raspberry Pi&lt;/th&gt;&#xA;&lt;th&gt;Processor&lt;/th&gt;&#xA;&lt;th&gt;RAM&lt;/th&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;/thead&gt;&#xA;&lt;tbody&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.raspberrypi.com/products/raspberry-pi-400-unit/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;400&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;BCM2711 quad-core Cortex-A72 @ 1.8GHz&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;4GB LPDDR4-3200&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.raspberrypi.com/products/raspberry-pi-4-model-b/specifications/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;4B&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;BCM2711 quad-core Cortex-A72 @ 1.5GHz&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;1GB, 2GB, 4GB, 8GB LPDDR4-3200&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tbody&gt;&#xA;&lt;/table&gt;&#xA;&lt;/div&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So they are very close in capabilities. The 4B has a slightly slower processor but does have the ability to have more RAM. The 400 does come with a keyboard but its feasibility would depend on your usage (probably not much for OctoPi).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given the slight disparity in specs, the Raspberry Pi 400 should work fine for OctoPi.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23193" LastActivityDate="2022-12-02T21:50:07.870" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20281" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20278" CreationDate="2022-12-03T10:40:25.703" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;While the server will work, there are some challenges.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Raspberry Pi 400 lacks the camera and screen connectors, specifically:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2-lane MIPI DSI display port&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2-lane MIPI CSI camera port&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;so you can't use Pi screens and camera modules. You need to find compatible USB webcam if you want to make time lapse of your print or stream your build to oversee it. If you want to add a touch screen, you need to use HDMI+USB one, as most of the screens dedicated for Pi won't work without DSI port.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pi 4b has:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2 × USB 3.0 ports&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2 × USB 2.0 ports&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pi 400:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2 × USB 3.0&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 × USB 2.0&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of these will be, of course, occupied by the printer, so if you want to connect a touchscreen and webcam, with 4b you still have up to three usb ports free, when with 400 you are all out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Built-in keyboard is somewhat redeeming quality, especially if you are old time console jockey and don't need a mouse or touchscreens, and 20% faster CPU is nothing to sneeze at if you want to use AI plugin to oversee your print. For end users not interested in any kind of hardware hacking, 400 being already assembled with case and cooling is a great benefit, too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;In summary&lt;/strong&gt;: it's compatible, faster and more convenient for end users, but less hackable. It's also significantly cheaper during 2022/2023 Pi Shortage, sometimes being available at MSRP and in stock.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20803" LastActivityDate="2022-12-03T10:40:25.703" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20282" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-12-03T14:34:07.487" Score="2" ViewCount="8292" Body="&lt;p&gt;Brand new Ender 3 V2 Neo with CR Touch. Set printer up, switched on, ran bed levelling as per instructions, and tried first print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Filament is not sticking to bed. I noticed that the nozzle is approx 5 mm above bed when printing. On this model there is no manual levelling, just auto. Any ideas?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36329" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2022-12-03T16:02:39.527" LastActivityDate="2022-12-06T17:58:47.967" Title="Filament not sticking to bed/nozzle too high" Tags="|creality-ender-3|bltouch|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20284" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-12-05T09:10:36.383" Score="2" ViewCount="187" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am a newbie to 3D printing. I have MakerBot Replicator+ with tough smart extruder in my possession. I want to print a temp tower. However I think I am stuck with Makerbot's software and I don't know how to print one with this since all other examples on internet are mostly on Cura. Is there a way to print temp tower using Makerbot's software? If not could you explain the other alternatives step by step?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36347" LastActivityDate="2022-12-05T09:10:36.383" Title="Printing a Temp Tower using MakerBot Replicator+" Tags="|makerbot|temperature|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20285" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20282" CreationDate="2022-12-05T15:12:34.620" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You probably need to manually set the Z-probe offset in the Configuration. The CR-touch is mounted a little lower than the nozzle to prevent the nozzle from interfering when leveling. This offset is not fixed and may differ per installation.&#xA;I don't know the proper way to set this other than just incrementing values until the first layer is perfect. Starting you will increment with 1mm per test and in the end you will be incrementing with 0.1mm values. &lt;strong&gt;One very big danger is though that setting a too high value, will press the nozzle into the printbed and damage both of them.&lt;/strong&gt; There for I don't recommend this method, but it is what works for me when being very careful with the increments.&#xA;Maybe someone with a good trick to safely set the probe offset can comment or answer here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4708" LastActivityDate="2022-12-05T15:12:34.620" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20286" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20277" CreationDate="2022-12-05T16:08:04.187" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It’s probably fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have it tightened down all the way now, you’ve squished most of the plastic out. You might burn up some plastic if your block gets too hot, but you could easily do that anyway. You might also have some issues with cold pulling and cold-ish unloading, but I wouldn’t expect it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you’re worried, your only recourse is to remove the nozzle and clean it out, probably while hot. Q-tips work fairly well for that. Unless you’re doing something fancier than PLA though, I think you’ll be fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6479" LastActivityDate="2022-12-05T16:08:04.187" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20287" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-12-06T00:14:42.837" Score="1" ViewCount="164" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to find out how to format the &lt;code&gt;__DATE__&lt;/code&gt; and &lt;code&gt;__TIME__&lt;/code&gt; options in Marlin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is NOT a duplicate of (&lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10844/show-build-date-and-time-in-marlin-2-0?newreg=652849c3d77f4bcfa4c009df0d2a9ba1&quot;&gt;Show Build date and time in Marlin 2.0&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When compiling my firmware I have a line in my configuration.h&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;code&gt;#define CUSTOM_MACHINE_NAME __DATE__ &amp;quot; &amp;quot; __TIME__ &amp;quot; Ender-3&amp;quot;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But on the printer it is showing&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Dec  5 2022 18:25:13 Ender-3&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want the format mm/dd/yyyy hh:mm. Example &amp;quot;12/05/2022 18:25 Ender-3&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36357" LastActivityDate="2022-12-08T11:53:49.090" Title="Show build date and time in Marlin 2.1 firmware?" Tags="|creality-ender-3|marlin|firmware|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20288" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20296" CreationDate="2022-12-06T02:07:30.243" Score="1" ViewCount="248" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought a 12V 33.3A switching power supply for my DIY 3d printer, it looks like this:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CIbIR.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CIbIR.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I connect all of the L, N, EGND to outlet. When I flashing firmware, I got electrical shocks several times from SD slot and screen in one hour. It is so frequent so I do not think it is static electric discharge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When measuring around using AC voltage mode of multimeter, I found touching one probe and another probe connected to DC+ or DC-, it measures 3-4 volts. When I measure AC voltage between EGND and DC output, it reads around 28-30 volts. Is this why I got electric shocks? Should I connect DC- to EGND dirctly to prevent this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36350" LastActivityDate="2022-12-10T13:15:56.097" Title="Do you ground your motherboard and screen?" Tags="|grounding|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20289" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20042" CreationDate="2022-12-06T02:11:06.183" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had exactly the same problem, every print has had the same defect.&#xA;What solved it for me was calibration. I calibrated the printer once, it was already better, then I calibrated it another time and it was gone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36358" LastActivityDate="2022-12-06T02:11:06.183" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20290" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-12-06T05:29:45.297" Score="2" ViewCount="322" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a monoprice Voxel 3. I am having an issue where the gear grabbing the filament at the roll is pulling the filament, then pushing it back, causing the roll to rock back and forth. It also makes an &amp;quot;putt&amp;quot; sort of noise, when it pushes the filament back. I have observed the mechanism in the filament compartment, the toothed gear is rocking back and forth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The printer also makes the &amp;quot;putt putt&amp;quot; noise without the gear rocking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36359" LastActivityDate="2022-12-06T07:40:15.610" Title="Why is Filament reel rocking back and forth/drive gear is pulling and pushing filament repeatedly?" Tags="|flashforge-adventurer-3|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20291" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20290" CreationDate="2022-12-06T07:40:15.610" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;That is quite normal behavior, what you are experiencing is called retraction. This is an opposite direction of the extrusion of the filament. Extrusion unrolls the spool, retraction pushes the filament back causing the filament to become hanging loose or rocking the spool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Retraction is necessary to prevent unwanted filament from leaking or oozing out the nozzle. Basically, retraction stops the melted or almost-melted filament from coming out the nozzle. Insufficient retraction (length) causes a problem called &amp;quot;stringing&amp;quot; or leakage from filament from the nozzle (which can catch parts of the print where you do not want material to deposit), too much retraction may cause your hot end to clog/block. The amount of retraction depends on the extruder type (direct or Bowden driven).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2022-12-06T07:40:15.610" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20292" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20293" CreationDate="2022-12-06T11:09:21.350" Score="1" ViewCount="569" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently picked up a second hand/defective 'Renkforce RF100' printer. A pretty obscure German brand. The problem with it was: broken hotend fan cable which caused clogging that the previous user was unable to fix. I have thoroughly cleaned the hotend, rewired the fan and now it works again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The mainboard it used is not very well known, designated as &lt;strong&gt;MPX.3&lt;/strong&gt; which seems similar to &lt;a href=&quot;https://athorbot-dev.myshopify.com/products/hictop-3d-printer-control-board-mpx-3-reprap-arduino-compatible-mother-board&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; HICTOP brand RAMPS 1.4 board. Renkforce's documentation is very sparse. Through some digging I found a &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/probonopd/RF100-Firmware&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;GitHub repo&lt;/a&gt; with some customizable Marlin firmware and this diagram: &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3eh6V.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3eh6V.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;RF100 Mainboard&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No real circuit diagram to be found for this specific Renkforce board, however. It does look similar to the &lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/mediawiki/images/b/b7/MKS_BASE_PINS.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;MKS Base 1.0 board&lt;/a&gt;. As you can see, it has support for up to two extruders, a fan and a heated bed (&amp;quot;EEFB&amp;quot;). Only one extruder (E0, labeled &lt;strong&gt;5&lt;/strong&gt; on the picture above) is in use on this printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is where I need some advice:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would like to add a part cooling fan to this printer. Right now, only the hotend fan (40 mm, 12 V 0.15 A) is connected to the 'Fan' (labeled &lt;strong&gt;7&lt;/strong&gt; in the picture above) header on the board and it will run at 100 % as soon as the hotend reaches &amp;gt;50 °C. Now, I could of course wire the hotend and parts cooling fans together, but I would like to have separate control over the parts cooling fan, in order to only run it at specific times (e.g. ramp it up after the first few layers are printed).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;My question&lt;/strong&gt;: Could I, for instance, just screw the parts cooling fan leads into the spare extruder terminal (E1) and re-program the firmware to let it know that that pin (D7, labeled &lt;strong&gt;6&lt;/strong&gt; on the picture above) is a FAN_PIN? Which I could then ideally address/control with the G-code &lt;code&gt;M106&lt;/code&gt;. In a sense I would repurpose the E1 terminal for a fan - do I need to worry about (fire) safety here? Since it's an extruder terminal? Or is that terminal &amp;quot;simply&amp;quot; a 12 V connection that I can connect to whatever? Do I need to add a MOSFET next to the terminal? Or am I overthinking this and should I use another position / pin on the board? This is really the limit of my electronics knowledge right now and safety is a primary concern. Any input is appreciated!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit for future reference: &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/dok-net/RF100&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this GitHub repo&lt;/a&gt; has a modern (at the time of writing) version of Marlin suitable for this printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36362" LastEditorUserId="36362" LastEditDate="2022-12-07T19:13:32.683" LastActivityDate="2022-12-07T19:13:32.683" Title="Repurpose extruder pin(s) for a parts cooling fan?" Tags="|marlin|ramps-1.4|electronics|print-fan|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20293" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20292" CreationDate="2022-12-06T12:22:17.753" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In a sense I would repurpose the E1 terminal for a fan - do I need to worry about (fire) safety here?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No, fans do not use much power, heater cartridges do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Considering the fifth stepper driver is not installed, this board is not equipped for using the E1 heater port/terminal in its current state.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;E.g, the MOSFET for the E1 heater is not installed (E0 and the bed MOSFET are installed):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TfOL6.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TfOL6.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or is that terminal &amp;quot;simply&amp;quot; a 12 V connection that I can connect to whatever?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No, it is a PWM controlled terminal by the microprocessor, however, the VCC and GND of the MOSFET connection holes should be connected, so will deliver 12 V.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do I need to add a MOSFET next to the terminal?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, if you want the firmware to control the speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The chance that the microprocessor is connected to the MOSFET gate port is quite big. I don't think that this board has missing traces from the processor to the peripherals.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, you could repurpose the pin that is dedicated to driving the E1 MOSFET, but, you should not run the fan directly from that pin. You should solder a MOSFET or add an external MOSFET module to protect the processor of over-current.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Changes to the firmware are simple, you need to add the correct port to the functioning of the fan, you may find some help in question &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6535/controlling-more-fans-with-ramps-board&quot;&gt;Controlling more fans with RAMPS board&lt;/a&gt; or here &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11472/how-to-use-second-hotend-for-bed-heating&quot;&gt;How to use second hotend for bed heating?&lt;/a&gt; (this may be helpful to modify the sources, or ask another question).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2022-12-06T13:52:38.727" LastActivityDate="2022-12-06T13:52:38.727" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20294" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-12-06T16:50:03.140" Score="1" ViewCount="47" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to make a mold of an airfoil, however the airfoil is cambered - I can't simply make rectangular bases and use a cut feature to cut the airfoil out of the mold body. The situation I've arrived at is needing to add material to the undercamber of the airfoil, however it's a very complex shape and I don't have the cad skills to do it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've tried using combinations of pads, lofts, etc. I simply can't find a way to fill &lt;em&gt;only that space&lt;/em&gt; without covering overtop of the leading/trailing edge of the airfoil:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HXFa9.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Airfoil mold showing space in undercamber&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HXFa9.png&quot; alt=&quot;Airfoil mold showing space in undercamber&quot; title=&quot;Airfoil mold showing space in undercamber&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The two parts are partDesign Bodies.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How would I fill this space using Freecad?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30809" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2022-12-06T17:37:04.020" LastActivityDate="2022-12-06T17:37:04.020" Title="Filling in space between two parts" Tags="|cad|freecad|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20295" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-12-06T16:57:55.563" Score="3" ViewCount="869" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a heating problem on my Ender 3 Pro. I changed the thermistor and the 40 W heater but still the printer will just heat to 200 °C. So I unplugged the front fan that runs constantly, and, yes, now it reaches 260 °C.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I run my printer like this? I mean, it should have been mounted there for a reason?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36364" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2022-12-21T03:06:12.223" LastActivityDate="2022-12-21T07:49:12.190" Title="Do you need the front fan on Ender 3 Pro?" Tags="|creality-ender-3|creality|cooling|fans|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20296" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20288" CreationDate="2022-12-06T17:52:44.687" Score="1" Body="&lt;h3&gt;TL; DR&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could try, powering off and connecting the &lt;code&gt;V-&lt;/code&gt; to the &lt;code&gt;AC Earth&lt;/code&gt; (either with, or without, a 100 Ω resistor - although the use of resistor &lt;em&gt;would&lt;/em&gt; be preferable).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XBkvG.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Connect AC Earth to DC V-&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XBkvG.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Connect AC Earth to DC V-&quot; title=&quot;Connect AC Earth to DC V-&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then switch the PSU on to see if:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;First&lt;/em&gt;, the PSU doesn't short and explode (this is rather unlikely, but you never know), and;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;Second&lt;/em&gt;, the mild shocking that you experience has stopped. If it has stopped, then all well and good. If it hasn't, then power off and remove the connection (as it would seem pointless).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally, this is what I would try... and &lt;em&gt;then&lt;/em&gt; get a replacement PSU anyway, when funds allow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Notes&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's obviously a dodgy earth/ground but without seeing inside, it might be difficult to determine exactly what the issue is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some of these LED power supplies are notoriously badly fabricated and there may be a poorly soldered connection inside, loose conenction, or a faulty part.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is probably easily remedied, if you know what to look for... but not so easily fixed if you don't. I've had a lot of these LED PSUs in the past and some are fixable, some not. Normally the output faisl and just the power transistors need replacing. I haven't come across one which shocks me yet, though, so I couldn't say what the issue is (likely to be), apart from a bad ground.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you think you could manage it, open it and check for bad ground/earth connections. If you don't feel confident, then, seeing as they are relatively cheap so, maybe obtain another PSU from a different source/manufacturer and try that one instead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;If you do open it up, remember to disconnect from the mains supply..!&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To be honest, it sounds like a dodgy unit, but... As a sanity check: Does the wall socket that you are plugging into actually have an Earth connection. I have a rented flat (in SE Asia), that has &amp;quot;three-hole&amp;quot; wall sockets, but the earth isn't actually earthed, and I'm constantly getting shocks from everything. As a shoddy workaround, you &lt;em&gt;could&lt;/em&gt; connect the earth to the plumbing (if you have metal pipework), to get a good earth... &lt;strong&gt;However, seeing as the unit is detective, then this could result in a shocking shower... so not advised!!!&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can't help thinking that this &lt;em&gt;could be&lt;/em&gt; quite a serious issue, and that (in the absense of a definitive answer here) maybe you should ask, or look, on &lt;a href=&quot;https://electronics.stackexchange.com&quot;&gt;SE.Electrical Engineering&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Further reading&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://electronics.stackexchange.com/q/589864/64015&quot;&gt;Should I ground the DC output negative terminal to the chasis on my 12 volt project?&lt;/a&gt;, in particular, &lt;a href=&quot;https://electronics.stackexchange.com/a/589868/64015&quot;&gt;this answer&lt;/a&gt; (but &lt;em&gt;all of the answers&lt;/em&gt; are both informative and worth a read).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4762" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2022-12-10T13:15:56.097" LastActivityDate="2022-12-10T13:15:56.097" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20297" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20282" CreationDate="2022-12-06T17:58:47.967" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Problem solved. Thanks for all the great suggestions. Yes, it was the Z axis offset. After homing Z axis set to 10mm. Set this to zero hen carried out manual bed levelling. After this ran auto levelling then set Z axis offset to correct level. None of this is mentioned in the instal instructions. Thanks everyone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36329" LastActivityDate="2022-12-06T17:58:47.967" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20298" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-12-06T20:08:20.563" Score="2" ViewCount="613" Body="&lt;p&gt;This dinosaur was printed on a Bambu Lab X1 Carbon with AMS, with 3rd party filament. Sliced with &amp;quot;Generic PLA&amp;quot; profile in Bambu Studio.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/knGVK.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/knGVK.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I understand that the zits probably happen at layer change, or hops to another location on the same layer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I first reproduced that on a Benchy, by setting seams to random:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CWHDI.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CWHDI.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;I understand that Benchy is a model where you'd &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; place the seams at random, but I wanted to make the problem visible in order to reduce the issue rather than hide it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are some quicker prints showing my attempts to fix that with retraction:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7WqqK.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7WqqK.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;Left: default of 0.8 mm retraction. Middle: 0 mm retraction (more stringing inside the cylinder, but no noticeable difference on the outside). Right: no retraction on layer change.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All seem to show similar amounts of holes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that the printer does a flow calibration by printing some kind of linear advance pattern and analyzing it with lidar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What else should I try to tune to minimize these holes?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20212" LastActivityDate="2022-12-06T20:08:20.563" Title="How to prevent holes in external perimeter" Tags="|retraction|bambu|seam|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20299" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-12-07T18:23:22.900" Score="3" ViewCount="2235" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to figure out how to get my &lt;strong&gt;BTT Smart Filament sensor&lt;/strong&gt; to work with my printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have looked at &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/18351/getting-btt-filament-sensor-to-work&quot;&gt;Getting BTT filament sensor to work&lt;/a&gt; and have tried almost everything they did.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Relevant Specs about my printer:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Ender 3 (not pro or v2)&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;BIGTREETECH SKR Mini E3 V3&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;BIGTREETECH TFT35 E3 V3.0.1&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Sensor plugged into &lt;code&gt;E0-Stop&lt;/code&gt; on the SKR Mini.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Running latest version of Marlin bugfix 2.1.x (last commit 12/5/2022 12:01:08 EST)&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;FYI I also do have &lt;strong&gt;OctoPrint&lt;/strong&gt; running and connected to the USB port of the SKR (not sure this matters).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I follow &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/bigtreetech/smart-filament-detection-module&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;BIGTREETECH setup instructions&lt;/a&gt; and several youtube videos for setting up &lt;code&gt;configuration.h&lt;/code&gt; and &lt;code&gt;configuration_adv.h&lt;/code&gt;, build the firmware, flash it on the board.  It always starts the print, then immediately stops and reports &amp;quot;Filament out&amp;quot;.  I've tried setting the following options:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;code&gt;configuration.h&lt;/code&gt; options:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#define FILAMENT_RUNOUT_SENSOR&#xA;#if ENABLED(FILAMENT_RUNOUT_SENSOR)&#xA;  #define FIL_RUNOUT_ENABLED_DEFAULT true // Enable the sensor on startup. Override with M412 &amp;gt;followed by M500.&#xA;  #define NUM_RUNOUT_SENSORS   1          // Number of sensors, up to one per extruder. Define a &amp;gt;FIL_RUNOUT#_PIN for each.&#xA;  #define FIL_RUNOUT_STATE     HIGH        // Pin state indicating that filament is NOT present.&#xA;  #define FIL_RUNOUT_PULLUP               // Use internal pullup for filament runout pins.&#xA;  #define FILAMENT_RUNOUT_SCRIPT &amp;quot;M600&amp;quot;&#xA;  #define FILAMENT_RUNOUT_DISTANCE_MM 10&#xA;  #ifdef FILAMENT_RUNOUT_DISTANCE_MM&#xA;    #define FILAMENT_MOTION_SENSOR&#xA;  #endif&#xA;#endif&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've tried flipping&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#define FIL_RUNOUT_STATE     HIGH&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;to&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#define FIL_RUNOUT_STATE     LOW&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;but it behaves the same.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anybody have any ideas? Did I miss something?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36357" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2022-12-07T19:39:07.123" LastActivityDate="2022-12-08T04:35:27.853" Title="BTT SKR Mini E3 V3 w/BTT smart filament sensor" Tags="|creality-ender-3|bigtreetech|skr-mini-e3|filament-sensor|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20301" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20299" CreationDate="2022-12-07T22:21:18.677" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ok, it appears I have gotten it working.  I guess I didn't flash the firmware after reading that the Smart Sensor requires a minimum of 7 mm of &lt;code&gt;FILAMENT_RUNOUT_DISTANCE_MM&lt;/code&gt;.  I rebuilt the firmware with the exact settings above and it is now working.  I've tested this by starting a print (calibration cube), I waited for it to complete the first 2-3 layers, then I cut the filament and let it run out.  It did detect the runout and allowed me to reload and continue the print&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36357" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2022-12-08T04:35:27.853" LastActivityDate="2022-12-08T04:35:27.853" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20303" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20305" CreationDate="2022-12-08T10:12:16.377" Score="3" ViewCount="213" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is it safe to give a 3D printed toy (printed using food-safe filaments) to a toddler?&#xA;Are there any recommendations/studies on what is considered safe?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21435" LastEditorUserId="21435" LastEditDate="2022-12-08T13:37:08.817" LastActivityDate="2022-12-10T15:00:13.667" Title="Is it safe to give 3D printed toys to a toddler?" Tags="|filament-choice|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20304" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20287" CreationDate="2022-12-08T10:25:36.457" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;code&gt;__DATE__&lt;/code&gt; and &lt;code&gt;__TIME__&lt;/code&gt; are C++ pre-processor macros with a predefined format. I don't think that there's any way to change them at compile time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3953" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2022-12-08T11:53:49.090" LastActivityDate="2022-12-08T11:53:49.090" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20305" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20303" CreationDate="2022-12-09T02:03:08.407" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The answer to this is highly dependent on the geometry, slicing settings, etc. Clearly it's possible for the 3D model itself to have small parts that would be choking hazards, or to have parts of the geometry such that, due to being thin or providing leverage, allow small parts to be broken off and become choking hazards, sharp, pointy, or otherwise dangerous. It's also possible that a print with insuficient layer bonding or poor infill could be split at layer lines or chewed apart, exposing parts that might be likewise dangerous.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the part is designed with these safety considerations in mind, sliced properly, and printed without error on a reasonably well-tuned printer, it should be safe against mechanical hazards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.ic3dprinters.com/2022-toys/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;IC3D Toys for Tots campaign&lt;/a&gt; might give you some ideas about the types of 3D printed toys a reputable organization considered safe for children. I'm not sure right off what age groups they targeted and whether all the toys in their campaign would be appropriate for toddlers - probably not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2022-12-09T02:03:08.407" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20308" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-12-10T12:37:36.033" Score="3" ViewCount="102" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm currently printing several cases for electronics, one for a Raspberry Pi 4 and two for smaller electronics, using ABS. These cases will be attached to a drone which might be exposed to rain. The cases itself should handle a little water, but I'm looking for a way to seal the seams where the cases are put together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As mentioned, the cases must endure light to medium rain. Also, they might be frequently dis- and reassembled, which should work without the sealing being destroyed.&#xA;The edges of the case parts are normally very thin, so gluing rubber bands or o-rings to them would be very complicated. And if I apply a sealant coating, how to open the cases again?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was hoping that maybe there was some kind of viscous liquid that is applied to the edges with a brush (or by dipping the edges into it) and then hardens to a rubber like texture that sticks to the part it was applied to. Other Ideas are welcome too, of course.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36399" LastEditorUserId="36399" LastEditDate="2022-12-22T14:24:46.847" LastActivityDate="2022-12-22T14:24:46.847" Title="Waterproof sealant for case seams that allows opening and closing without destroying seal" Tags="|water-resistance|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20309" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20303" CreationDate="2022-12-10T15:00:13.667" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The model election is a non-trivial issue when dealing with to a toddler but also, the extruder and hotend should be 100% free of debris from any previous, non food-safe filaments, although I don´t know how plausible that may be from a procedure point of view and I don´t know if there are any regulations with thresholds on this, but it´s not like we will be making a chemical analysis of a print to verify neither, so moving on to next point&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on what you want to do (and your printer flexibility), you might as well have 2 sets of extruder/hotend/bed if your really want to go this route on a production scale: one for food-safe prints and the other for the rest of the filaments like ABS&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36322" LastActivityDate="2022-12-10T15:00:13.667" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20310" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19645" CreationDate="2022-12-10T15:22:31.427" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This sounds like an x-y problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You are probably looking for easier separation or a nicer surface on your red area, and what you are actually asking for does the opposite of that. (Probably. It's complicated.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For tower-like supports, you will have a structure similar to infill used to get to the right height, then an interface layer (kind of like a raft), then the print supported on top of that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You think (I assume) that you could have fewer points of contact, and this would mean the printed surface is more perfect. That's mostly wrong. With fewer points of contact, the hot strands are more likely to droop and fuse with the support. It's kind of like the trick where a person lies down on a bed of nails: more points of contact means less pressure, which means a cleaner surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What you can do instead is play with the interface layer (the &amp;quot;roof&amp;quot;). IIRC, it will only allow multiples of your layer height, so you don't have that much granularity. That's fine. try bumping it up one layer and see if that gives you better separation. You can also try making the roof a little beefier, so it snaps off as a single piece more often.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If for some reason you &lt;em&gt;really, truly&lt;/em&gt; do want fewer points of contact, disable the support roof (or set it to height zero and turn support density down. I do not recommend this unless you have something specific and weird going on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6479" LastActivityDate="2022-12-10T15:22:31.427" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20311" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14758" CreationDate="2022-12-10T15:30:05.950" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You have a significant hardware problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It might be that your belt is slipping, or your motor is skipping, or your rollers need to be adjusted, cleaned, or replaced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Quality is a bit potato, so it's hard to say exactly what's going on, but it looks like you are also printing way too hot. That may be compensating for wet filament or poor levelling/zeroing, either of which could lead to the nozzle dragging, possibly leading to skipping. I would expect at least the towers and maybe the print to break free if that were the case though, so I suspect it's a separate issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6479" LastActivityDate="2022-12-10T15:30:05.950" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20312" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-12-10T15:59:56.190" Score="0" ViewCount="439" Body="&lt;p&gt;My Ender 5 Pro starts printing then glitches and stops. It is a brand new printer, and I have printed out the included rabbit model (which came on the MicroSD card), but a couple of days later I turned the printer on and it gave me a blue screen of death.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have since installed the firmware from Creality's website, but after that, each print results in the printer printing out a bit and stopping (the screen works, but no button can be pressed). I have tried all of the different firmware versions on Creality, but it is the same with all of them (and most printer just doesn't see when I insert the SD card).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The test line (at the very start of the print) on the far right, however, is printed perfectly each time, so the filament goes through without any issue, so it looks like an error in G-code, but the situation (starting and stopping after the test line) is the same both in CURA and Creality slicer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have just tried to print using a USB connection and it's working perfectly. So the issue is with the SD card, but I have tried 3 different ones, 2 GB and 16 GB, as well as the included 8 GB one, and the issue is the same on all of them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are some reliable cards/manufacturers you used?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36405" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2022-12-11T13:45:23.510" LastActivityDate="2022-12-11T13:45:23.510" Title="Ender 5 Pro starts print then glitches and stops" Tags="|creality-ender-5|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20314" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16683" CreationDate="2022-12-12T18:25:10.677" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's quite easy to estimate &amp;quot;close enough&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Compared to FDM printers, movement is way more simple, and there are only 4 different types of movements during a normal print:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lowering the print platform at the beginning of print (we can't know the starting position, so time needed cannot be really estimated)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Printing bottom layers with longer exposure times. Speeds can be set differently from normal layers.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Printing normal layers. Just like bottom, move build platform up and back down (slightly higher than last time), and do exposure with constant time.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;After the print is complete, lift the print up.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My last print job was 2249 layers, of which 4 were bottom layers. As you can see, everything else pales in comparison of the time needed for &amp;quot;normal&amp;quot; layers. So we can pretty much ignore them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But the estimate is wrong. Luckily it's very easy to fix closer to the reality. &lt;a href=&quot;https://manual.chitubox.com/user-manual-basic/setting-up/configure-print-parameters/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;This page&lt;/a&gt; shows how to do it, search for &amp;quot;Layer Print Time Compensation&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since print time is so predictable, it's only a single multiplier value. The easiest way to set this up is to slice a project, write down estimated time AND amount of layers. Then when the print is done record the time it actually took, open the compensation window (gear icon on the right side of Layer Print Time Compensation), and enter all the values there. It will calculate the multiplier for you. Also note that this setting is per-profile, it will be different for different exposure times, movement speeds and layer thickness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19084" LastActivityDate="2022-12-12T18:25:10.677" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20315" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20226" CreationDate="2022-12-13T15:32:47.320" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;After some &amp;quot;experimenting&amp;quot;, I've managed to resolve the problem. There were several contributors to the problem I had:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I had to replace the slicing software; My printer did not accept G-code from Cura perfectly, even after a detailed configuration of Cura, according to my printer specs. Instead, I've downloaded and used OEM slicing software (in this case Voxelab)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Printing speed was too high; With printing speed reduced from 60 mm/s to 40 mm/s situation significantly improved. Apparently, the extruder could not keep up with filament delivery at higher speeds&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Increased PLA temperature to 230 °C.; This also partially resolved the filament distribution problem. Bed temperature remained at 60 °C, with quite good success (I've used adhesive as well)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36135" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2022-12-13T15:36:24.520" LastActivityDate="2022-12-13T15:36:24.520" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20316" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20317" CreationDate="2022-12-13T18:27:13.623" Score="4" ViewCount="88" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've noticed there have been some strange patterns occurring in my prints lately, sort of like warping. I've attached a picture of a Benchy below and an image of a project I'm working on. But as you'll see on the Benchy, the front is messed up. Never had this issue before, it's only started occurring recently. Any ideas as to what it looks like?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MoBud.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MoBud.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7478V.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7478V.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QUqMn.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QUqMn.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/D0gQt.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/D0gQt.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36449" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2022-12-13T22:50:51.363" LastActivityDate="2022-12-13T22:50:51.363" Title="Issues with my 3D prints" Tags="|print-quality|ultimaker-cura|filament|anet-a6|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20317" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20316" CreationDate="2022-12-13T18:57:33.790" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Looks like insufficient cooling. If it only just started, your part cooling fan might be clogged with dust and debris, or have a failing bearing making it spin slow and give low flow, or might have broken fins, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's also possible that a difference in ambient air has made the difference. Especially if you're printing PLA on a hot bed, it's hard to get low-to-the-bed overhangs like the Benchy bow sufficiently cooled that they won't deform like this, and having the ambient temperature a few degrees higher can make the difference in not being able to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the latter is your problem, lowering the bed temperature (and finding alternatives to heat to get your part to stick) is probably your best option. Or, get better fans.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2022-12-13T18:57:33.790" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20318" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20326" CreationDate="2022-12-13T21:17:28.873" Score="5" ViewCount="3686" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/N3XeE.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/N3XeE.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While I was setting up a new Ender 3 v2, and tuning the z-steps value, I noticed that some layers were extending beyond the others in the x and y axes. I didn't notice any pattern related to which layer, or how far from the print bed, or how often they might repeat during the same print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My current setup is OctoPrint running on a raspberry pi 3B, connected via USB to the recently-assembled Ender 3v2.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My current theory is that something related to the z-axis stepping isn't lifting the print-head. It might be that the wrong number of steps are being performed, or that the screw isn't turning along with the stepper, or that there is some kind of friction or binding keeping the x-axis beam from raising.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28400" LastEditorUserId="28400" LastEditDate="2022-12-13T22:17:52.620" LastActivityDate="2022-12-20T13:07:16.020" Title="How to I eliminate these &quot;squished&quot; layers that appear on my prints?" Tags="|creality-ender-3|z-axis|extrusion|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20319" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20318" CreationDate="2022-12-13T22:45:20.197" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is unlikely that the amount of steps per mm are incorrect for your Z-axis, but there is indeed something wrong with the Z-axis. The Z-axis doesn’t advance the correct amount per layer for some layers; the Z height of the cubes say enough. If too less raised, the material will be squished outside the outer perimeter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It could be that there is too much friction or binding or another mechanical problem. You should manually check that. But it can also be that there isn’t enough current delivered to the stepper by the driver. The current for the Z-stepper can be adjusted by the trim pot near the stepper driver.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.world/customer/service/technical-information/adjusting-stepper-driver-current-on-the-ender3-v2/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;From reprap world:&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the Ender3 v2 Mainboard you will find a small set screw for each stepper driver, called a trimpot. To access the mainboard remove the bottom plate of the printer. Once removed, you are able to see the trimpots as on the images shown below. By adjusting the trimpot you reduce or increase the current, depending on the rotation. Be careful adjusting the trimpot, it may break easily. Always disconnect power before adjusting the trimpot and use a suitable screw driver. The following pictures shows the locations of the trimpots.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6ws6h.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6ws6h.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To increase the current rotate the trimpot clockwise by a few degrees. Steps of 10 degrees of change are probably best, until you find the sweet spot. For the ender3 v2 the following vRef are recommended:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;X,Y,Z: 1.22V&#xA;E: 1.39V&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2022-12-16T12:25:41.010" LastActivityDate="2022-12-16T12:25:41.010" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20320" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-12-14T11:17:41.620" Score="2" ViewCount="59" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm interested in 3d printing rotors for cipher machines, like the &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Enigma_rotor_details#Rotor_electrical_view&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Enigma machine rotor&lt;/a&gt;. These are cylindrical objects with a complicated internal wiring scheme that's very labor intensive to duplicate with manual construction techniques.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The obvious solution would be to print the rotor structure using non-conductive filament, and then use conductive filament to create the complex, twisting connections from the one side of the rotor to the other.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can this be done? If so, how?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since I don't have access to a dual-extruder machine, are there any commercial services which have this capability?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36460" LastActivityDate="2022-12-14T14:45:25.450" Title="Mixing conductive and non-conductive filaments" Tags="|filament|dual-nozzle|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20321" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20320" CreationDate="2022-12-14T14:45:25.450" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here is a video published by a Virginia Tech student in 2017, printing alternately with conductive and magnetic pastes (not filaments) to make planar and toroid inductors:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/3nKqwcXcEgY?start=0&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Disclaimer: This was done with Hyrel 3D equipment, and I work for Hyrel 3D.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4922" LastActivityDate="2022-12-14T14:45:25.450" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20322" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20395" CreationDate="2022-12-14T17:37:34.800" Score="5" ViewCount="105" Body="&lt;p&gt;This summer I bought a white PLA+ filament from &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.amazon.it/SUNLU-Filamento-Stampante-Tangle-Bianco/dp/B07R8X76GW&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Sunlu&lt;/a&gt;.&#xA;After some trials, I found these settings in Ultimaker Cura for my Dremel 3D45:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NlH5l.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NlH5l.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The layer thickness is 0.2 mm.&#xA;The objects were printed almost perfectly for my needs:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/K57ff.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/K57ff.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, after 3 months, I tried to print with the same material and of course with the same parameters. Even if the infill seems quite good:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TvdH0.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TvdH0.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;the walls are terrible:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/S02RE.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/S02RE.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm using a dryer before and during the printing.&#xA;I'm lost because I cannot think what can be happened.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other variable is the environment temperature in the box: this summer was about 20 °C, now it is 12-13 °C. But given the use of the dryer and given that the Dremel is closed it should not matter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could the filament be damaged?&#xA;Any other idea?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21979" LastEditorUserId="27865" LastEditDate="2022-12-19T09:16:00.243" LastActivityDate="2023-02-01T14:07:00.880" Title="Same parameters lead to very different results" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|pla|filament|dremel-3d45|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="14" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20323" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19632" CreationDate="2022-12-15T17:55:30.540" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is generally not a good idea. Your slicing needs to be reasonably tuned to your specific printer. You’re going to have a hard time finding files to start with, and you may have a very bad time if it’s set up for a material different from yours.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, frame challenge: don’t do that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6479" LastActivityDate="2022-12-15T17:55:30.540" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20325" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-12-16T05:03:32.260" Score="2" ViewCount="1040" Body="&lt;p&gt;Every time I print something I get these random bands on my prints that look like layers that are just too thick. I’ve tightened my X-axis belt to the best of my ability, and my Y-axis belt is tightened as well. Though I don’t think it’s that because it goes around the whole print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I’m using Cura, .28 mm layer height, 20 % infill, all on my Ender 3 in PLA at 200 °C nozzle temp and 50-60 °C bed temp. I’ve attached some pictures of a calibration cube I printed, it is squished a bit because my Z-axis wasn’t calibrated properly, but I’ve since fixed that and the problem still occurs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6uYhY.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Photo of a calibration cube with strange thick looking layers around the whole print&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6uYhY.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Photo of a calibration cube with strange thick looking layers around the whole print&quot; title=&quot;Photo of a calibration cube with strange thick looking layers around the whole print&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="35982" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2022-12-16T14:13:02.530" LastActivityDate="2022-12-17T07:25:58.667" Title="“Thick layers” on Ender 3" Tags="|creality-ender-3|print-quality|ultimaker-cura|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="8" ClosedDate="2022-12-26T07:25:58.523" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20326" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20318" CreationDate="2022-12-16T05:04:40.527" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;After some thought, I decided to verify all of my assumptions. My primary assumption was that I had completed the assembly completely and correctly. This was not the case. I had &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; tightened the collar around the z-axis lead screw sufficiently. After correcting this error, I'm pleased to report that all of my 'squished' layers have disappeared and the printer is now fully functional.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28400" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2022-12-16T12:26:14.747" LastActivityDate="2022-12-16T12:26:14.747" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20327" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-12-17T02:52:26.180" Score="1" ViewCount="67" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I need to print higher-temp filament at 225 °C the nozzle temp turns off for just a second but this is enough to send the temp down to about 200 °C before it recovers to print temp.  This jams up the nozzle and I get stringing as it tries to print the brim.  Sometimes this is no big deal, other times I have to start over.  I can't find any control in Cura for this; my initial print and final temps are all at 225 °C.  Seems like some auto-program for the initial homing in the firmware or something.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm using a BLTouch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36499" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2022-12-17T04:19:34.913" LastActivityDate="2022-12-17T04:19:34.913" Title="Ender 3 nozzle temp turns off briefly at start of print" Tags="|nozzle|temperature|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20328" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20325" CreationDate="2022-12-17T07:25:58.667" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Problem solved everyone!! Turns out I was actually having two issues caused by the same thing. My inaccuracy in the z axis and those weird lines were both being caused by either my z axis stepped not receiving enough current or that the collar around the z axis lead screw wasn’t tight enough. I tried both of these solutions at the same time so I don’t know which it was.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/20318/how-to-i-eliminate-these-squished-layers-that-appear-on-my-prints&quot;&gt;Link to a post with the same issue, with possibly the same solution. Thank you @0scar for showing me this!&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="35982" LastActivityDate="2022-12-17T07:25:58.667" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20329" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19632" CreationDate="2022-12-17T09:36:23.243" Score="4" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Uncontrolled G-code can be a (medium) security risk.&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As we already elaborated &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/18725/8884&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;. In general, &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/RKdsp2vrmag&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;you shouldn't use G-code from a website&lt;/a&gt;, unless you really know what you do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Prusaprinters/printables.com&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Printables.com, formerly Prusaprinters, allows uploading G-code that does not contain commands that can alter settings. This blocks the &lt;code&gt;M50x&lt;/code&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/11440/8884&quot;&gt;family&lt;/a&gt; (esp. &lt;a href=&quot;https://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M500.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;M500&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;https://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M501.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;M501&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;https://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M502.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;M502&lt;/a&gt;) and several other codes (M509, M400, M304, M303, M30) that are easily weaponized to destroy or at least alter printers. By disallowing these commands, &lt;em&gt;some&lt;/em&gt; damage can be mitigated, but not all: The site does &lt;strong&gt;not&lt;/strong&gt; detect G-code that would for example ram your hotend into the bed - and most printers don't have crash detection to stop &lt;em&gt;that&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2022-12-17T10:11:37.783" LastActivityDate="2022-12-17T10:11:37.783" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20330" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20331" CreationDate="2022-12-17T16:21:32.607" Score="3" ViewCount="444" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there a way to get rid of the (yellow) internal support, Cura is generating for overhangs?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PUEUe.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PUEUe.png&quot; alt=&quot;Top/Bottom on Overhang from top&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZD3YK.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZD3YK.png&quot; alt=&quot;Top/Bottom on Overhang from side&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am already printing with 3 walls, so there should be no additional benefit in this case and it is harming my print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Reason: I want to print this in silk PLA, which is very temperature sensitive. These overhangs tend to curl up, due to the additional material and heating. Adding more part cooling will hurt the layer adhesion dramatically.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13819" LastActivityDate="2022-12-17T20:15:15.807" Title="In Cura remove Top/Bottom on overhang" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20331" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20330" CreationDate="2022-12-17T17:11:28.450" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Skin Removal Width&lt;/strong&gt; should be the setting you are looking for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mAAdy.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mAAdy.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PrusaSlicer's equivalent is &lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://help.prusa3d.com/article/layers-and-perimeters_1748#ensure-vertical-shell-thickness&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Ensure vertical shell thickness&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27865" LastEditorUserId="27865" LastEditDate="2022-12-17T20:15:15.807" LastActivityDate="2022-12-17T20:15:15.807" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20332" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20221" CreationDate="2022-12-17T20:34:41.337" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In addition to checking for a broken or improperly tensioned extruder, I would also recommend just checking the brass filament gear and cleaning it. It tends to get caked with a mix of dust, filament shavings, and whatever else they absorb out of the air - maybe even oils from the nearby Z leadscrew or motor bearings, etc. - and this significantly reduces the effective tooth depth and thus grip. The soft brass teeth might even wear down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it's just dirty, cleaning it could solve the problem, but if it looks like it's worn and needs replacement, replacing the whole (very bad) extruder would be a better option. No sense spending money on just the gear when pretty much everything about this extruder is bad, and for not too much more cost, you could get a better one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2022-12-17T20:34:41.337" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20333" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20338" CreationDate="2022-12-18T00:11:21.240" Score="0" ViewCount="359" Body="&lt;p&gt;My Ender 3v2 stops mid-print; every print. The head just stops moving. The nozzle and bed temperatures are still on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I then can cancel and start the job but it's stopping again, even when using totally different G-code files.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm using OctoPrint and didn't change anything lately. This never happened before.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any idea why this is happening?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36513" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2022-12-18T04:42:54.390" LastActivityDate="2024-01-19T20:19:10.290" Title="Ender 3v2 stops mid-print" Tags="|creality-ender-3|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20334" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20221" CreationDate="2022-12-18T00:21:33.757" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can think of the following causes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;if the thermistor and heater in the hot-end is loose it can lead to weird results due to inconsistent temperatures.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the gear grip for the filament feed might be slipping and lead to inconsistent feeding and print outcome.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36513" LastEditorUserId="36513" LastEditDate="2022-12-18T21:29:00.703" LastActivityDate="2022-12-18T21:29:00.703" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20335" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-12-18T05:07:37.883" Score="3" ViewCount="183" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm wondering if anyone has ever gotten the Ender 4.2.2 board to send I2C commands? I'm looking to add some extra features, and I2C seems the best way to do it. So far, I've reflashed Marlin with the &lt;code&gt;EXPERIMENTAL_I2CBUS&lt;/code&gt; enabled and currently have broken out the SDA and SCL lines from the LCD to connect them also to an Arduino.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This seems to be working (ran a sniffing test and it printed some output), although it causes the screen to constantly think that it is being clicked. The Arduino takes address 10 and then I tried sending data over I2C with &lt;code&gt;M260 A10&lt;/code&gt; but the Arduino received nothing. Just wanted to see if anyone had done this before and had any pointers?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36515" LastActivityDate="2022-12-18T05:07:37.883" Title="How to send I2C commands from Creality 4.2.2 board with Marlin" Tags="|creality-ender-3|marlin|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20336" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-12-18T14:49:57.640" Score="3" ViewCount="160" Body="&lt;p&gt;I wanted to experiment with a 3D printer and downloaded &lt;strong&gt;Lychee Slicer&lt;/strong&gt; and wanted to print an Unreal asset. I took a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.unrealengine.com/marketplace/en-US/product/paragon-steel&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;free one&lt;/a&gt; from the store and exported the static mesh as &lt;code&gt;.obj&lt;/code&gt;, so I can load it in &lt;strong&gt;Lychee&lt;/strong&gt;. The only thing is details and curves have disappeared and smooth surfaces are visible polygons. Is this something that can be fixed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IAXgd.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Screenshot of a 3D model in Unreal Engine&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IAXgd.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Screenshot of a 3D model in Unreal Engine&quot; title=&quot;Screenshot of a 3D model in Unreal Engine&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cPBCL.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Screenshot of a 3D model in Lychee Slicer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cPBCL.png&quot; alt=&quot;Screenshot of a 3D model in Lychee Slicer&quot; title=&quot;Screenshot of a 3D model in Lychee Slicer&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36521" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2022-12-19T17:59:23.293" LastActivityDate="2022-12-19T22:37:51.670" Title="3D print Unreal Engine asset - Low quality export" Tags="|resin|lychee|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20337" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14628" CreationDate="2022-12-18T19:19:09.393" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had exactly the same issue.  I read where ethyl acetate would work so I bought a can of Klean Strip M.E.K Substitute (&lt;a href=&quot;https://www1.mscdirect.com/MSDS/MSDS00052/70250402-20200318.PDF&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;MSDS&lt;/a&gt; says it is ethyl acetate) at Home Depot and it works like a champ.  No heating of the bed is required. All of the PLA build-up came off with a cloth rag and a little bit of elbow grease.  Make sure to follow instructions. Good luck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36524" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2022-12-18T20:20:06.160" LastActivityDate="2022-12-18T20:20:06.160" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20338" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20333" CreationDate="2022-12-18T21:30:08.437" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I reinstalled the firmware and also reinstalled octoprint. Since then everything seems to be printing fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36513" LastActivityDate="2022-12-18T21:30:08.437" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20340" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20336" CreationDate="2022-12-19T15:13:42.617" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The curves (simple smoothing or real &amp;quot;multiple-per-vertex-normals&amp;quot;) are embedded in the vertex information of the model and probably still exist in the obj. Lychee only sees the real 3D polygon mesh and discards the vertex data. Your best way to add some sort of polygon smoothing like MeshSmooth or TurboSmooth in 3ds Max, Maya, or Blender. It will read the vertex info and apply it to the mesh, thus creating more vertices. See the following YouTube video  for an example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/VBc-dXBnzKI?start=0&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4708" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2022-12-19T18:01:50.253" LastActivityDate="2022-12-19T18:01:50.253" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20341" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20308" CreationDate="2022-12-19T16:04:51.800" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Plastidip is a spray-on rubber-like material that strengthens and waterproofs your 3D print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other than that I would make sure that your model is splash-proof by overlaying structures, so that rain rolls off without entering the body and anything that enters the body can seep out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4708" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2022-12-19T18:02:39.437" LastActivityDate="2022-12-19T18:02:39.437" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20342" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20336" CreationDate="2022-12-19T22:37:51.670" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds like the .obj file you exported from the Unreal Engine did not preserve the smooth surfaces and curves of the original asset. This is likely because the .obj format does not support smooth shading or surface curvature information, and can only represent geometry as a collection of flat polygons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to preserve the smooth surfaces and curves of the original asset, you will need to use a different file format that supports this kind of information. Some options you might consider include the .stl format, which is commonly used for 3D printing, or the .fbx format, which is a more general-purpose 3D file format that can support smooth shading and surface curvature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is also possible that the slicer software you are using to prepare the model for printing does not support smooth shading or surface curvature. In this case, you may need to use a different slicer program or apply a smoothing algorithm to the model before exporting it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope this information is helpful. Let me know if you have any further questions!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36537" LastActivityDate="2022-12-19T22:37:51.670" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20343" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-12-20T04:23:27.050" Score="1" ViewCount="67" Body="&lt;p&gt;Referring to a circle shape G-code online generator for my 2D printer at &lt;a href=&quot;https://cnc-apps.com/en/app/circle&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;, in which I created a 100 mm circle. I downloaded the G-code from the website and try to open it with UGS plotter but it is not showing any circle in that software.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I solve this issue? Pardon me, I only started CNC 2 days ago and I have jogged my 2D printer I built and it works well, so now as a beginner task, I want to draw a circle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If anyone has experience with G-code, feel free to share it with me. I appreciate it :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xfnfS.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Screenshot of online G-code generator settings&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xfnfS.png&quot; alt=&quot;Screenshot of online G-code generator settings&quot; title=&quot;Screenshot of online G-code generator settings&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sfcu6.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Screenshot of UGS software with no G-code shown&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sfcu6.png&quot; alt=&quot;Screenshot of UGS software with no G-code shown&quot; title=&quot;Screenshot of UGS software with no G-code shown&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36539" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2022-12-20T14:26:15.900" LastActivityDate="2022-12-20T16:38:03.057" Title="Fail to upload G-code with UGS Plotter Software" Tags="|print-quality|g-code|diy-3d-printer|print-material|printer-building|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20344" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20343" CreationDate="2022-12-20T06:07:09.440" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Make sure you are connecting to the correct port. Make sure you have installed any drivers required for your controller. Make sure GRBL is properly flashed on your controller. As a last resort try removing all previous UGS settings (see property Files) and reinstall.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36540" LastActivityDate="2022-12-20T06:07:09.440" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20346" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20318" CreationDate="2022-12-20T06:47:52.977" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If your nozzle is too close to the bed, there is not enough space between the nozzle and the bed to extrude the proper amount of filament. Excess filament is either squished upwards between individual printed lines or isn't extruded at all creating additional pressure in the hotend.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36540" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2022-12-20T13:07:16.020" LastActivityDate="2022-12-20T13:07:16.020" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20347" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18978" CreationDate="2022-12-20T06:50:40.650" Score="-3" Body="&lt;p&gt;To fix the Ender 3 not printing or starting, you need to reflash the firmware to rule out any errors, calibrate your hot end temperature with PID Tuning, and check your filament if it has snapped from somewhere. The Ender 3 also won't print if the nozzle is too close to the print bed or the nozzle has been clogged.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36540" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2022-12-20T08:29:29.307" LastActivityDate="2022-12-20T08:29:29.307" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20348" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20295" CreationDate="2022-12-20T15:06:08.453" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Yes, it is necessary.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Its purpose is to cool the heatsink. The filament should only melt in the heater block. If the hotend fan is missing, the heatsink will also heat up, causing the filament to melt in it. This will cause heat creeps, which may result in inconsistent extrusion or unwanted clogs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I once tried printing without a hotend fan and after a while, my filament got stuck at the height of the heatsink.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your heating issues are probably due to other reasons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27865" LastEditorUserId="27865" LastEditDate="2022-12-21T07:49:12.190" LastActivityDate="2022-12-21T07:49:12.190" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20349" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-12-20T15:13:19.663" Score="0" ViewCount="80" Body="&lt;p&gt;My Photon Mono 4k adds a small block along the right side and no matter what I do, it still makes it. It doesn't stop it from printing but is wasting a good bit of resin. Does anybody have an idea as to what's happening?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36546" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2022-12-20T15:44:50.913" LastActivityDate="2022-12-20T16:45:05.400" Title="Resin printer adds a small block along the far right side" Tags="|resin|lcd-screen|anycubic-photon|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20350" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-12-20T16:15:52.467" Score="6" ViewCount="332" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently started using my Ender 3 V2 again because I needed it to print a hook. I went through multiple problems that I could solve by updating the firmware but after starting the print, I heard a very hard noise that made me understand that the stepper motors were going over their limit and, after trying a second time, I saw that every axis was going to +infinite position.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I didn't try much things as I am not comfortable with this but I think it comes from the firmware.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have the solution please help me because I can't print anything and I think it damages the printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36548" LastActivityDate="2024-02-26T16:08:41.050" Title="Creality Ender-3 V2 motors going insane" Tags="|creality-ender-3|extruder|firmware|motor|bug|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20351" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20343" CreationDate="2022-12-20T16:38:03.057" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The g-code generated by the linked site presents in a text reader as a series of G01 codes, which are strictly movement codes. As expected, the circle was created as a series of fairly short straight line segments.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are no other g-codes of note in the created file. In the case of a 2D printer, one would expect to see a g-code for pen down/pen up, while in a 3D printer, one expects to see extrusion commands.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first two or three g-code viewers presented zero graphic results. The last one (because, why continue?) is &lt;a href=&quot;https://ncviewer.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;NC Viewer&lt;/a&gt; and was able to properly display a circle. Images from linked site, using OP linked site to code 100 mm circle:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bYh57.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bYh57.png&quot; alt=&quot;G-code for 100 mm circle&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I added in a &amp;quot;pen-down&amp;quot; g-code, M3 S50 to the code and the NC Viewer site also added a pen!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5nsRS.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5nsRS.png&quot; alt=&quot;100 mm circle with pen&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This would indicate that your code is good/operational/functional, but lacks additional commands to create something useful in the program on your side. Consider to examine the g-code that presents an image in your software. Research the g-codes to determine the function. For example, I did not have a pen-down g-code command memorized, but used a search engine to find &amp;quot;g-code pen down&amp;quot; nearly instantly. Directly related, the M09 g-code in the created file is one I did not recognize. A search presented the answer that it is a &amp;quot;coolant off&amp;quot; command. An unusual command to see in a generic g-code creator!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastActivityDate="2022-12-20T16:38:03.057" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20352" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20349" CreationDate="2022-12-20T16:45:05.400" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A creation on your build plate indicates that that portion of the screen is illuminating. Either the screen has a defect that prevents the masking in that location, or there is spurious code in the creation of the print file.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can test for a specific answer by running the files without the print bed or print vat. Cover the screen with a sheet of paper to protect your eyes, and/or leave the cover in place. The sheet of paper will give a more clear definition to the region being printed/not printed, reducing the glare from the UV lights.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Examine also the display on the printer while the layers are being printed. If the block does not appear in the display, it would indicate that it's not a glitch in the code creation. If the block appears on the paper, it's more likely a failed portion of the screen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's not out of the question that there could be a cable connection loose that prevents masking of that specific area, but it's pretty unlikely to be so tightly restricted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastActivityDate="2022-12-20T16:45:05.400" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20353" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-12-20T17:03:34.850" Score="3" ViewCount="124" Body="&lt;p&gt;Recently my hotend extruder got stripped out so I bought a new one and went to replace it, after finishing, my screen wouldn't turn on and it is no longer connecting to my PC. The filament sensors light is on, the BLTouch sensor is not on and all the fans are working, from pictures I've seen there is supposed to be a light on the motherboard, but, that I don't see on my motherboard, all pictures I've taken are with the printer plugged in and on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sfAgV.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sfAgV.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Transfer Board&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YbKUh.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YbKUh.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Tranfer Board&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qYGjj.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qYGjj.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Mother Board&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/S1tMq.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/S1tMq.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Screen Board&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jUUZU.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jUUZU.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;This Thing&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XaNaY.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XaNaY.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Fuse Box&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36549" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2022-12-20T19:03:14.510" LastActivityDate="2022-12-20T19:03:14.510" Title="CR10S Pro V2 Screen not working after replacing the hotend extruder" Tags="|creality-cr-10|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20354" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-12-21T04:49:58.943" Score="0" ViewCount="156" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am quite new to CNC. May I ask how to reduce the length per pixel for the entire triangle? I want the template length, height, and every dimension to be reduced by 10 times, which means the height is 257 mm instead of 2570 mm, length is 275 mm instead of 2750 mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: The G-code generator software I used is &lt;a href=&quot;http://jscut.org/jscut.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;jscut&lt;/a&gt; which is extremely easy to use and it has a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GmcmdVhCqu4&amp;amp;t=235s&amp;amp;ab_channel=MakerTutor&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;tutorial video&lt;/a&gt;. May I ask if I should change the overall dimensions in this G-code generator software (jscut) or this UGS runner and how it is done?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3roB4.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Screenshot of UGS software showing a triangle with its measurements&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3roB4.png&quot; alt=&quot;Screenshot of UGS software showing a triangle with its measurements&quot; title=&quot;Screenshot of UGS software showing a triangle with its measurements&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36539" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2022-12-21T14:03:21.587" LastActivityDate="2022-12-21T14:03:21.587" Title="Adjust shape dimension in UGS G-code software" Tags="|print-quality|diy-3d-printer|print-material|printer-building|arduino-mega-2650|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20355" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20360" CreationDate="2022-12-21T06:54:15.640" Score="4" ViewCount="136" Body="&lt;p&gt;My Dremel 3D45 stopped the extrusion. I removed the nozzle thinking about it was clogged. But still it didn't solve. Also the nozzle was harder to remove than usual.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I removed the bottom cover and I found this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xHHKD.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xHHKD.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/usG7k.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/usG7k.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems the heater is completely burned and messed up.&#xA;Unfortunately the replacement parts are hard to find.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;I'm wondering what could have caused this damage&lt;/strong&gt;.&#xA;I didn't run the nozzle over 220 °C (usually 195 °C) and the printer has less than 250 hours of working time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It was just a defect? Or could I have prevented it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21979" LastEditorUserId="21979" LastEditDate="2022-12-21T08:01:51.433" LastActivityDate="2022-12-22T07:00:25.340" Title="What could have caused this damage?" Tags="|troubleshooting|extruder|nozzle|dremel-3d45|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20356" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20308" CreationDate="2022-12-21T07:58:30.877" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've tried gasket sealant, as mentioned by @fectin, and the result seems to be working.&#xA;You spread it on the edges of the printed part and evenly flatten it (it helps to print a tool for that purpose that flattens and removes the overhanging sealant at the side of the edge). Now let it sit for about one day. The sealant will harden out and stick to the part. The edges can also be pressed to the edges of an opposite part without the sealant sticking to the opposite edges (so far as I have tested, at least), so a reopening is possible.&#xA;Aside from that, I'll simply have to use overhangs whenever necessary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36399" LastActivityDate="2022-12-21T07:58:30.877" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20357" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20362" CreationDate="2022-12-21T11:28:12.883" Score="1" ViewCount="355" Body="&lt;p&gt;Recently, I've installed a new BIGTREETECH SKR mini E3 V3.0 board on Creality Ender-5. Previously, I was using SKR mini E3 V1.2 board, but it broke down and I had to replace it. I connected new one exactly like the previous board and calibrated the printer. Everything seemed to be working properly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, I'm getting unexpected &lt;code&gt;M122&lt;/code&gt; errors while printing from OctoPrint:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CRGHS.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CRGHS.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;M122 error on printer's display&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is OctoPrint's console output:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Recv: ok&#xA;Recv: Error:checksum mismatch, Last Line: 30869&#xA;Recv: Resend: 30870&#xA;Should resend line 30870 but no sufficient history is available, can't resend&#xA;Changing monitoring state from &amp;quot;Printing&amp;quot; to &amp;quot;Error&amp;quot;&#xA;Send: G1 X109.711 Y118.883 E.02691&#xA;Send: M112&#xA;Send: N31035 M112*37&#xA;Send: N31036 M104 T0 S0*38&#xA;Send: N31037 M140 S0*99&#xA;Changing monitoring state from &amp;quot;Error&amp;quot; to &amp;quot;Offline after error&amp;quot;&#xA;Connection closed, closing down monitor&#xA;Closing down send loop&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This checksum mismatch error appears randomly at different stages of printing, but always around 30000 line.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What is my setup?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Creality Ender-5&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Raspberry Pi 3A+&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;OctoPrint 1.8.6&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;OctoPi 0.18.0&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;SKR mini E3 V3.0 board&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/kosteklvp/Marlin-SKR-mini-E3-v3/tree/209c69f887105b52191fd1c229e103a0a27b5862/Marlin&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;My custom firmware&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I customized the firmware from BIGTREETECH official repository for this board. This problem also occurs, when I upload official firmware for this board. OctoPrint is connected to the board via GPIO pins - that's how it was connected before and I have no way to connect it via USB cable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What have I done to resolve this issue?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tried printing from SD card. This error doesn't occur, when printing from SD card.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Replaced cables connecting the board with Raspberry Pi.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Isolated all the electronics away from the printer's case.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Changed SD card used by OctoPrint to a new, empty one.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Updated OctoPrint to recent, stable version.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Uninstalled all unnecessary OctoPrint plugins.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tried flashing official firmware.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suppose that the problem is in the connection between the printer and OctoPrint. What can cause this error to happen?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27865" LastEditorUserId="27865" LastEditDate="2022-12-23T09:21:34.910" LastActivityDate="2022-12-23T09:36:37.343" Title="What causes checksum mismatch error while printing from OctoPrint?" Tags="|octoprint|skr-mini-e3|serial-connection|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20358" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20308" CreationDate="2022-12-21T14:02:27.250" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;How about rubber cement from a stationery store?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thinly coat both surfaces, let it dry for a while, then press and hold firmly together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending upon the strength of the object, you might be able to simply pry it apart when needed, or use a knife to cut the cement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Warning:&lt;/strong&gt; be sure to test the cement on a sample of the printed material first to ensure that its solvent won't react with the print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="35385" LastActivityDate="2022-12-21T14:02:27.250" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20359" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20308" CreationDate="2022-12-21T15:10:10.577" Score="2" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Many ways lead to Rome!&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are many ways that lead to Rome in this case, and I want to propose two:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;cut gasket sheet&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The most simple solution is a gasket, upon which pressure is applied evenly on all sides. This gasket can be made from any rubbery or foam material and then &lt;em&gt;squished&lt;/em&gt; between the halves. A typical construction for a gasket would look akin to this stack: a pipe with holes in the flange at its end, then the gasket, then the endcap. The sealant is deformed against the plates on either side and the pressure is applied by having bolts pass through the faces &lt;strong&gt;and&lt;/strong&gt; the gasket. You'll find this mechanism often where flat surfaces are &lt;em&gt;mating&lt;/em&gt;. The thickness of the gasket and its flexibility (some are really stiff, others are super soft) are dependent on the use case. They rely on being tensioned evenly.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/T58Vb.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/T58Vb.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Among the household solutions that can work like this are 2mm closed-pore foam sheets and faux leather. The latter usually is a PVC foam, at times fiber reinforced. Industrial gaskets are at times papery in make but rely on precision machined surfaces then (motorhead gaskets!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;molded gasket by the sealant grove in situ&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this case, you use a flexible rubber material, such as acyl, silicone, or a Polyurethane sealant, and add it to a groove or onto a surface. In this position, it cures into a staying gasket and when brought in contact with the mating surface, it provides sealing surfaces by deforming in the fashion limited by the channel provided for it. The upside is, that you can have very complex mating surfaces. The downside is, that often the seal might not be replaceable easily and will need to be destroyed to get a replacement done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the example shown below, I designed the receptacle for the sealant in the shape of a grove, allowing you to easily shape it with a coin or wet finger and press it into all crevices of the channel. This will result in a well-curing and maximum-adhering shape.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mFgf6.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mFgf6.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A slight refinement on the design would be an undercut on the receiving side, preventing one from &lt;em&gt;pulling&lt;/em&gt; the gasket from the channel if the inside of the vessel had a lower pressure than the outside and the mating surface &lt;em&gt;sticks&lt;/em&gt; to the seal. However, this makes replacing the sealant harder if it ages over time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BGbD3.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BGbD3.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2022-12-21T15:17:44.560" LastActivityDate="2022-12-21T15:17:44.560" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20360" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20355" CreationDate="2022-12-21T20:32:37.817" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;As you say that the nozzle removal was harder than normal it can be concluded that it has been removed before.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looking at the hotend when new,&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wV4LS.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wV4LS.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;it evidently looks as if filament has been entrapped onto and on top of the heater block.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It could be that in a prior attempt to remove or replace the nozzle, the heat break has come loose or un-tightened as such that molten filament leaked on top of the heater block.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This hypothesis is more likely in this case than filament that has been ricochetted back from the nozzle opening back to the cavity containing the hot end (I recently experienced this latter issue on an Ultimaker destroying the core...).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2022-12-22T07:00:25.340" LastActivityDate="2022-12-22T07:00:25.340" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20361" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20253" CreationDate="2022-12-22T18:28:07.900" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think I fixed the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Marlin was configured in hybrid mode with stealth chop mode at low speed then spread cycle when the stepper goes faster.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I removed stealth chop and set spread cycle at any speed and it seems to be OK.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I could let the machine work for hours with no issue&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36232" LastActivityDate="2022-12-22T18:28:07.900" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20362" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20357" CreationDate="2022-12-23T09:36:37.343" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to &lt;a href=&quot;https://marlinfw.org/docs/configuration/configuration.html#baud-rate&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Marlin docs&lt;/a&gt;, these checksum mismatch errors were due to the baud rate being set incorrectly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The serial communication speed of the printer should be as fast as it can manage without generating errors. In most cases 115200 gives a good balance between speed and stability. Start with 250000 and only go lower if “line number” and “checksum” errors start to appear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lowering baud rate solved the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27865" LastActivityDate="2022-12-23T09:36:37.343" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20363" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-12-23T12:55:43.633" Score="1" ViewCount="81" Body="&lt;p&gt;We have the problem that our machine automatically performs a Z-homing when our software connects to the Arduino, but only the Z-axis. We would like to disable it, but could not find the line in Marlin to do it.&#xA;Any idea?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The software we developed is called &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/OfficeChromatography/OC-Manager3&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;OC-Manager3&lt;/a&gt; and the machine is the &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/OfficeChromatography/OCLab3&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;OCLab3&lt;/a&gt; which is working like a 3D printer but doing different jobs of analytical chemistry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, if we serially connect our Raspberry Pi either from Thonny or Visual Studio to the Arduino (booting the Arduino), the same Z-homing occurred. Thus, it is not related to our software but obviously to Marlin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36578" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2022-12-24T15:56:17.227" LastActivityDate="2024-01-18T19:07:25.997" Title="Automatic Z-homing when connected" Tags="|firmware|z-axis|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20364" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19911" CreationDate="2022-12-23T14:00:18.030" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Possible is this an idea found at the octoprint web site?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://plugins.octoprint.org/plugins/pwmbuzzer/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://plugins.octoprint.org/plugins/pwmbuzzer/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36578" LastActivityDate="2022-12-23T14:00:18.030" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20365" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20379" CreationDate="2022-12-23T16:04:02.453" Score="3" ViewCount="4455" Body="&lt;p&gt;How to use organic supports in PrusaSlicer or Cura? I heard that it is possible, but I can’t find this option in these slicers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36509" LastEditorUserId="36509" LastEditDate="2022-12-27T19:09:03.477" LastActivityDate="2022-12-27T19:09:03.477" Title="How to use organic supports in the slicer?" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|support-structures|prusaslicer|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20366" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15130" CreationDate="2022-12-23T16:51:12.570" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Late to the question, but I'm working on a similar project as the question presents. My solution is to open the SVG file in Inkscape (version &amp;lt; 1.x) and use the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:25036&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Path to OpenSCAD&lt;/a&gt; extension to create a set of points for each entity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The extension generates paths based on the desired extrusion height and places each set of points in its own module. In so doing, one can scale each individual entity and manipulate each one as desired.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CoOQa.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CoOQa.png&quot; alt=&quot;Inkscape Extension for OpenSCAD use&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Image from linked site.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastActivityDate="2022-12-23T16:51:12.570" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20367" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19911" CreationDate="2022-12-23T22:27:47.407" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just looked in the Marlin FW &lt;code&gt;pins_RAMPS.h&lt;/code&gt; where the pin assignments are located:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;      #define BEEPER_PIN        37&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please check for yourself. I assume you run Marlin, but my version is old and may not be correct.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you mentioned there is no LCD on your printer so most likely this pin is free, just need to find it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, just a warning, use a proper buzzer or beeper module with the onboard transistor. Do not connect a buzzer directly to the signal pin as the current draw can kill your controller.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36583" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2022-12-24T10:28:08.740" LastActivityDate="2022-12-24T10:28:08.740" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20368" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20363" CreationDate="2022-12-23T23:09:44.323" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Seems like you are looking in the wrong place. I am pretty sure that this unnamed software of yours is what sends a homing command when opening connection. Best way to test is just connect to it from another control software like Pronterface, Arduino IDE or any USB serial software and it will not do that because they don't tell the printer to home Z.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36583" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2022-12-24T16:09:25.340" LastActivityDate="2022-12-24T16:09:25.340" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20369" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20365" CreationDate="2022-12-24T13:21:14.133" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;As Cura is mentioned in the question, it could be solved using Cura. The only organic support in Cura is called &lt;code&gt;Tree&lt;/code&gt; as option of &lt;code&gt;Support Structure&lt;/code&gt; in UltiMaker Cura's advanced options.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CBUKc.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CBUKc.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This option works best if you want support, but do not want Cura to build it on top of your end product (&lt;code&gt;Support Placement&lt;/code&gt; -&amp;gt; &lt;code&gt;Touching Buildplate&lt;/code&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5Wzwj.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5Wzwj.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This would lead to the generation of an organic like structure for the support structure:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wr6wp.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wr6wp.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2022-12-27T15:30:03.953" LastActivityDate="2022-12-27T15:30:03.953" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20370" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20365" CreationDate="2022-12-24T13:59:06.650" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It looks like Organic supports is not available yet. That’s why it is not in the slicer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36509" LastActivityDate="2022-12-24T13:59:06.650" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20371" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-12-24T15:08:54.940" Score="3" ViewCount="1098" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I’m kind of a newbie to 3D printing. I got my Ender 3 about 3 days ago and some PETG filament to accompany it. These are the slicer settings:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hotend: 235 °C&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Initial bed temperature: 80 °C&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bed temperature: 70 °C&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Layer height: 0.12 mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also use a brim on the outside of the prints. Every time I print, some of the bottom layers stick onto the bed. I’ve seen somewhere that if you heat it to 70 °C you can scrape it off, but that doesn’t work for me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/K8c3k.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Photo of a print bed with some of the bottom layers of a print stuck to the bed&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/K8c3k.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Photo of a print bed with some of the bottom layers of a print stuck to the bed&quot; title=&quot;Photo of a print bed with some of the bottom layers of a print stuck to the bed&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36590" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2022-12-24T19:46:18.550" LastActivityDate="2022-12-25T12:10:29.657" Title="How do I remove stuck on PETG filament from stock Ender 3 bed?" Tags="|creality-ender-3|petg|bed|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20373" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20374" CreationDate="2022-12-25T00:12:52.673" Score="5" ViewCount="1438" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well, I know what my critical error was, I was in a hurry and set a print running before leaving it unattended for about 8 hours; came home to a great enormous disaster.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ywdFK.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Photo of a large mass of filament sticking out of a silicone sock&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ywdFK.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Photo of a large mass of filament sticking out of a silicone sock&quot; title=&quot;Photo of a large mass of filament sticking out of a silicone sock&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YjQec.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Photo of the printer head from below showing filament and residue&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YjQec.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Photo of the printer head from below showing filament and residue&quot; title=&quot;Photo of the printer head from below showing filament and residue&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What on earth happened?  Perhaps more importantly, is anything here salvageable, or do I just need to get a new printhead?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36596" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2022-12-25T15:45:41.177" LastActivityDate="2022-12-26T19:05:27.577" Title="What happened during this print disaster, and is it salvageable?" Tags="|creality-ender-3|print-failure|repair|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20374" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20373" CreationDate="2022-12-25T00:30:44.537" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's difficult to determine if there is anything inside this mass of plastic, but a heat gun applied carefully will allow you to extract it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When a hot end is assembled, the heat sink (finned cylinder) has a heat break threaded into it (slender metal tube) which then threads into the heater block (block with wires for the heater cartridge and thermistor).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The heater block has the nozzle threaded into it, but it's important to not seat the shoulder of the nozzle on the heater block. Leave a gap of 0.5 to 1.0 mm between the nozzle shoulder and the heater block. Tighten the heat break into the block until it contacts the nozzle. Secure it firmly, but don't snap anything off!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Heat the assembly to the highest safe temperature, between 220 °C and 250 °C and tighten the nozzle again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Step 7 from &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.cnx-software.com/2017/06/26/raiscube-r2-3d-printer-review-part-3-how-to-install-e3d-hotend-clone/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;cnx-software&lt;/a&gt; states the same thing as the paragraph above, but also provides a graphic showing the components:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/G92bL.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/G92bL.png&quot; alt=&quot;E3Dv6 clone hot end assembly&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your photo shows the results of a nozzle that might have been leaking filament at the top of the nozzle and below the heat break, leaking out of both the top and bottom of the heater block.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Melting the plastic with a heat gun may release the metal components and if you are very careful and very lucky, you won't damage the wiring for the heater cartridge and thermistor. One can expect that the wiring will be damaged, however and you may have to replace the two items. This is advised, as the melted plastic will bond with the wiring and insulation, making it very difficult to manipulate them during assembly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are determined, you won't have to purchase a new hot end and if you have the financial wherewithal, you may want to purchase one anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastEditorUserId="854" LastEditDate="2022-12-25T11:28:51.833" LastActivityDate="2022-12-25T11:28:51.833" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20375" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20371" CreationDate="2022-12-25T12:10:29.657" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Spray all remainings with Isopropyl Alcohol and try rubbing it with a paper towel or sponge. Isopropyl Alcohol works as a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KTRvBmta3Zs&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;release agent&lt;/a&gt; in this case and it may also soften these residues a bit. Try gently scraping it with a scraper, but be careful not to damage the surface, since the stock magnetic beds are quite soft. Scraping it with a utility knife or razor blade is not recommended, because it may permanently destroy the print surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Try to heat the bed a bit more to 80 °C. Heating it above 80 °C is not recommended, as it may damage surface adhesion. After that, wash the surface with a sponge in warm water. You can repeat this process until you get satisfying effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you print in these places, these remainings may stick to new prints and could disappear after some time. For future prints, follow &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/20371/how-do-i-remove-stuck-on-petg-filament-from-stock-ender-3-bed#comment38771_20371&quot;&gt;Oscar's advices&lt;/a&gt; to avoid similar issues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27865" LastActivityDate="2022-12-25T12:10:29.657" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20376" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20373" CreationDate="2022-12-25T14:01:00.037" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd say you are quite lucky, the hotend (as seen in the second photo) is fairly intact!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've had a similar problem recently, but in my case it destroyed an Ultimaker core module hotend, and salvage would have taken too much time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What happened during this print disaster&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What probably happened is that the print has become unstuck from the build plate or a part of the support is caught by the hotend blocking the deposition of filament to the print object and instead it ricocheted back against the nozzle. This is not uncommon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;, and is it salvageable?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd say yes. You should be able to get the silicone sock off and clean the hotend. Heating the hotend and scraping it off seems do-able from the photo you provided, it may require some time and elbow grease.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2022-12-26T19:05:27.577" LastActivityDate="2022-12-26T19:05:27.577" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20377" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-12-25T15:56:13.607" Score="1" ViewCount="25" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am trying to getting started a 3d printer product research so I need some guidance&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36604" LastActivityDate="2022-12-25T15:56:13.607" Title="What all things I can create with a cheap and a expensive 3d printer" Tags="|printer-building|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="4" ClosedDate="2022-12-25T16:13:18.100" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20379" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20365" CreationDate="2022-12-26T12:40:24.010" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;As far as I know, PrusaSlicer organic tree support isn't available to the public yet. PrusaSlicer is rumored to use the same code as the Pull request made by Thomas Rahm on his Cura fork who started working on this code around 2020.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &amp;quot;organic&amp;quot; tree support contributed by Thomas Rahm is also available in the 5.3.0-alpha+xmas Cura version in Cura, which showcases that new tree support. You  can find more information in the article &lt;a href=&quot;https://ultimaker.com/learn/cura-christmas-tree-support&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Special alpha: new (Xmas) tree supports for UltiMaker Cura&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Full disclosure I'm one of the Cura developers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19005" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2022-12-26T19:34:54.380" LastActivityDate="2022-12-26T19:34:54.380" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20380" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-12-27T01:42:21.333" Score="1" ViewCount="534" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've just updated my Ender 3 to 32 bit version 4.2.7 and the Z stepper is reversed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ender 3&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;32 bit 4.2.7 board&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Marlin Bugfix 2.0.x&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36616" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2022-12-27T08:57:34.650" LastActivityDate="2022-12-29T15:59:12.817" Title="Z stepper is reversed after update to 32 bit v4.2.7" Tags="|creality-ender-3|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20381" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-12-27T03:45:17.250" Score="3" ViewCount="2851" Body="&lt;p&gt;I’ve recently obtained a Creality Ender-3 V2 3D printer and have tried setting it up. With it came 2 modifications (CR Touch auto bed leveling kit and dual Z-axis kit).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The installation of the dual Z-axis kit was fine, and so was the CR Touch. Before I tried to install firmware for the CR Touch, the printer seemed to do everything fine. On activation, the Creality startup screen appeared with a loading bar. After the bar loaded it gave me the basic options. I was able to check and see that the current firmware version was 1.0.4. Also, during the wiring of the CR Touch kit, I checked the motherboard version, which was version 4.2.2. After it was functioning fine, I decided to install the CR Touch firmware.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I tried to install the firmware for the first few times into the printer's SD card reader, nothing happened. I then decided to try plugging it into the card reader inside the display. When I booted it up this time, it displayed the Creality startup screen with no download bar, three “0.00” at the bottom which would flash to “???” every second, and a number above those three things which switched from 21 to 22 every second or two. After some time the number stuck at 22. After this, I took the card out of the display and turned the printer off. Since then, the printer has done nothing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now when the 3D printer turns on, it’s just the Creality startup screen with no loading bar. It stays on this screen and nothing changes, nothing happens. The printer also does not seem to connect to my computer (USB or Wi-Fi), does not accept anything from the card reader on the front of the machine, and does not accept anything from the card reader inside the display.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ever since this has begun, I’ve done the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Inserting the card with many different pieces of firmware into the display card reader and front card reader. Result: Nothing happened.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Inserting the card with a .txt file containing &lt;code&gt;M502 M500&lt;/code&gt; (factory reset code and setting save code) and renaming it to &lt;code&gt;.gcode&lt;/code&gt;. Result: Nothing happened.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Connecting a computer to the printer via a USB cord. Result: Computer detects nothing.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sending &lt;code&gt;M502&lt;/code&gt; and &lt;code&gt;M500&lt;/code&gt; to the printer via Creality Print software. Result: Nothing happened because no printer was found.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Checked the file system and partitioning style. Result: FAT32 and MBR.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Used Pronterface to try and connect to the printer. Result: Weird error message reading “Update failed, no SD/TF-card or error.” I tried this with and without the SD card in both the display card reader and the front card reader.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Have tried Googling many different answers to this issue. Unable to exactly pinpoint anything the problem. I found one Reddit post about the “Update failed, no SD/TF-card or error” error, but it does not have any helpful replies. Result: Nothing helpful.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It’s been 2 days of continuous work on the printer and nothing has come about to signify an end to this suffering besides the “Update failed, no SD/TF-card or error” error. I’m tired of nothing working and unrelated answers, so I’ve decided to ask the question myself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36617" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2022-12-27T14:05:53.467" LastActivityDate="2022-12-28T01:03:11.607" Title="Creality Ender-3 V2 Not Doing Anything (Hard to Explain)" Tags="|creality-ender-3|troubleshooting|firmware|microsd|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20382" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-12-27T08:00:26.413" Score="2" ViewCount="7988" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just came to the 3D printing world and after installing Marlin 2.1.2 firmware in my Ender 3, which took a while and was finally completed following this tutorial:&#xA;&lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/EGyKCSWJYls?start=0&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I cannot get the CR Touch correctly calibrated, but it is correctly installed (physically) and recognized in firmware. The steps I´m following are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Auto-homing. Which does a correct measurement from the center of the bed using CR Touch.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Probing the Z Offset. Which is strange because I got 0.1 mm instead of the -1.x mm or even -2 mm some people are getting in some tutorials I´ve seen so far.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bed leveling. By default it takes 9 measurements and the first 6 are okay, but for the 7th the nozzle along with the CR Touch goes to low and pushes against the glass bed. Also, is there a way to make it work taking more measurements of the bed? Just for it to be more accurate and know more the bed it is working on.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once again, I´m new in this but I have seen many videos about it, not getting a valid configuration in any of them. Is there anything to try out for it to work well? Also, I´m using OctoPrint for it, in case this helps or there is a known plugin I can work with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="34748" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2022-12-27T08:13:48.073" LastActivityDate="2023-01-25T04:31:41.470" Title="CR Touch under Marlin for Ender 3" Tags="|creality-ender-3|bltouch|octoprint|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20383" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-12-27T17:36:22.483" Score="6" ViewCount="309" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought a very famed filament dryer (won't mention the brand) which turned bad on me as I got a failed one; it got exceedingly hot (uneven 60-68 °C) and deformed an almost full PLA spool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Aside from the spool itself (which was made from recycled PLA), the filament suffered deformation as it contracted and I had to disassemble the whole thing. I haven't checked yet if the diameter suffered a deviation enough to make it nonviable for the printer (it's 1.75 mm), but if not, is it salvageable or should I play it safe?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The PLA itself wasn't also very high quality, I'd like to add, but I don't want the approximately 800g left to go to waste.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36322" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2022-12-27T19:38:28.920" LastActivityDate="2022-12-27T19:54:32.853" Title="Failed filament dryer deformed my filament. Is it salvageable?" Tags="|pla|filament|heat-management|recycling|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20384" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-12-27T18:10:30.693" Score="1" ViewCount="339" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been able to print for almost a year, then it began to fail.&#xA;When I select Auto level from the LCD Screen, the print head moves to the front left, hovers the probe in the air, which causes the print head to crash into the bed while the (blue light is on) probe searches for the bed. Since the print head is too far to the left, the BLTouch probe can never find the bed and crashes the nozzle instead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My setup:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ender 3 Pro,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;TH3D EZBoard Lite V1.2,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;BLTouch Probe,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Marlin firmware,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Glass bed.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I power on, and set 'Auto Home', it goes to 117,117,5 after every tutorial and video I watch on Z-Offset setting.&#xA;I reset the EEPROM, Level the bed and save settings during each X-Offset attempt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am only using the knob on printer's console for the settings. I have disconnected OctoPrint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I made my last successful print over a year ago, as regardless of the video I watch, or the website tutorial I follow, I always get the 117,117,5 setting, which looks ok, but always crashes on Auto level.&#xA;My Firmware is compiled using the TH3D website for this purpose when using their boards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36628" LastEditorUserId="27865" LastEditDate="2022-12-27T21:44:33.080" LastActivityDate="2022-12-27T21:44:33.080" Title="X-Axis out of whack. Print head crashing into bed during auto home" Tags="|creality-ender-3|marlin|bltouch|x-axis|print-axis-offset|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20385" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20383" CreationDate="2022-12-27T18:31:29.457" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;It all depends on how much the filament is deformed. If there are not many conjoined places, and you can easily unroll the spool, it should be fine. You should also check filament diameter, because if it is too thick, it may clog in some places.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although, I wouldn't use such filament for important prints. Keep it for prototyping and calibration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27865" LastEditorUserId="27865" LastEditDate="2022-12-27T19:54:32.853" LastActivityDate="2022-12-27T19:54:32.853" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20386" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5212" CreationDate="2022-12-27T21:35:47.957" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was able to remove the Marlin bootscreen and still retain the custom one by commenting out the following line in &lt;code&gt;marlinui_DOGM.cpp&lt;/code&gt; (&lt;code&gt;Marlin/Marlin/src/lcd/dogm/marlinui_DOGM.cpp&lt;/code&gt;):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;void MarlinUI::show_bootscreen() {&#xA;    TERN_(SHOW_CUSTOM_BOOTSCREEN, show_custom_bootscreen());&#xA;    // show_marlin_bootscreen();&#xA;  }&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tested and working as of Marlin 2.0.x.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36632" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2022-12-27T22:14:26.927" LastActivityDate="2022-12-27T22:14:26.927" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20387" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20121" CreationDate="2022-12-27T22:04:00.857" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;CuraEngine transfer the progress and slice data with the help of the C++ library &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/Ultimaker/libArcus&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;libArcus&lt;/a&gt; which is a wrapper around the Google Protobuf library.&#xA;The Python binding for libArcus are &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/Ultimaker/pyArcus&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;pyArcus&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to send messages to CuraEngine with Arcus check how it is done in the &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/Ultimaker/Cura/tree/main/plugins/CuraEngineBackend&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;CuraEngineBackend&lt;/a&gt; plugin on the Cura side and the &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/Ultimaker/CuraEngine/tree/main/src%2Fcommunication&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;communication&lt;/a&gt; source code for the CuraEngine side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But please take note of the CuraEngine, libArcus, and pyArcus licenses these also apply when using them in a cloud slicer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19005" LastActivityDate="2022-12-27T22:04:00.857" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20388" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20381" CreationDate="2022-12-28T01:03:11.607" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I’ve figured it out. The issue was that the SD card was faulty, even though it seemed to work perfectly fine. I went out and bought a new one and then everything started working again. I tried flashing the firmware I tried before and it worked perfectly. Even the auto leveling works. Thanks for the help but it seems like the answer was again a very weird solution, a very difficult to find solution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36617" LastActivityDate="2022-12-28T01:03:11.607" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20389" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20390" CreationDate="2022-12-28T10:04:10.580" Score="6" ViewCount="717" Body="&lt;p&gt;I started playing with OctoPrint and I already have it configured for external access and management, using OctoEverywhere.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would like it to be an easy to use printer, because it is shared between people that don't use Cura or PrusaSlicer, so I want them to upload STL files and having a slicer built into the print server (printer is an Ender 3) for them to click a button and convert these STL files into a printable G-code. I have tried to add the printer to Cura but it says that the API connection key is invalid. Can anyone help me with this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="34748" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2022-12-28T14:54:25.213" LastActivityDate="2024-01-05T17:44:58.610" Title="How can I upload STL files to OctoPrint?" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|octoprint|stl|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20390" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20389" CreationDate="2022-12-28T14:53:50.280" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Giving people a bad experience  with 3D printing (for those who it isn't a hobby) is letting them slice their own files... &lt;em&gt;(from experience, I maintain an Ultimaker printer for a staff association)&lt;/em&gt;. Most users have no clue what a slicer does and how you should place your model and use what settings or materials.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I upload STL files to OctoPrint?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a few option from available &lt;a href=&quot;https://plugins.octoprint.org/by_tag/#tag-slicer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;plugins&lt;/a&gt; to upload and slice STL files, but these options are not powerful enough with respect to desktop standalone slicing application. Furthermore, when there are multiple materials in play, it is best you appoint some trained/experienced users to slice for others. This works very well from experience, it spreads the load over multiple people.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, most of the plugin options are not maintained for a while and use old slicing engines. This shouldn't be the way to operate a community printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2022-12-28T17:46:09.967" LastActivityDate="2022-12-28T17:46:09.967" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20391" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-12-28T21:34:13.830" Score="0" ViewCount="428" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have updated my Ender 3 Pro to 4.2.7. The printer boots up, I can move X, Y, and Z-axis from the &lt;strong&gt;Prepare&lt;/strong&gt; &amp;gt; &lt;strong&gt;Axis&lt;/strong&gt; screens. The printer also correctly reads the G-code file names from an inserted SD card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, when it should be printing based on G-code commands, the printer just stops. Printing used to work with the same SD card and make prints.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I updated the firmware with:&#xA;&lt;code&gt;Ender-3 Pro_4.2.7_BLTouch_Marlin2.0.1_V1.1.2_TMC2225.bin&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am stuck!! Any ideas?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36643" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2022-12-28T22:07:57.377" LastActivityDate="2022-12-29T23:28:16.573" Title="Ender 3 Pro reads SD G-code file names but won't print them" Tags="|creality-ender-3|g-code|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20392" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-12-29T12:01:54.083" Score="1" ViewCount="772" Body="&lt;p&gt;I reinstalled Klipper with &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/th33xitus/kiauh&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;kiauh&lt;/a&gt; due to other issues I had.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The folder &lt;code&gt;klipper_config&lt;/code&gt; is still filled with all important config files and all G-code data is there too. But when I start Klipper and enter Mainsail it can't connect to the MCU, can't find G-code files, and has no config files. It is accessing /config and not &lt;code&gt;klipper_config&lt;/code&gt;. How do I change that?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5nTsQ.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Screenshot of the Mainsail Config files dialog&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5nTsQ.png&quot; alt=&quot;Screenshot of the Mainsail Config files dialog&quot; title=&quot;Screenshot of the Mainsail Config files dialog&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36652" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2022-12-29T14:16:22.300" LastActivityDate="2022-12-29T14:16:22.300" Title="Klipper can't find config files" Tags="|raspberry-pi|klipper|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20393" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20380" CreationDate="2022-12-29T15:08:21.287" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;First, you can get the right config files from the &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Configurations&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Marlin Github Config page&lt;/a&gt; and choose the config file in:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;config/examples/Creality/Ender-3/CrealityV427/&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It should in theory solve the issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If not you can change the direction in the firmware like that:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#define INVERT_Z_DIR true&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively, you can invert the plug on the Z motor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36655" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2022-12-29T15:59:12.817" LastActivityDate="2022-12-29T15:59:12.817" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20394" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20350" CreationDate="2022-12-29T15:19:52.497" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It looks like your axes are inverted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First be sure to get the right configuration file for your marlin version, printer, and control board from the &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Configurations&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Marlin Github Config page&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;your board shall be CrealityV422 if it is a stock one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it is still a problem you can of course invert the axes in the config file:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#define INVERT_X_DIR true //or false&#xA;#define INVERT_Y_DIR true //or false&#xA;#define INVERT_Z_DIR true //or false&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36655" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2022-12-29T16:00:04.783" LastActivityDate="2022-12-29T16:00:04.783" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20395" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20322" CreationDate="2022-12-29T15:31:22.527" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;This looks like a clogged nozzle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Clean your nozzle, and if you have a setup with a Bowden tube coming up to the nozzle, like an Ender 3, check that it is clean, and has good, strong contact with the nozzle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The low ambient temperature is not helping, but should create warping, not a total lack of material.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition, make sure that you have a silicone sock on your heat block to protect from too much heat loss and have a more even temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36655" LastEditorUserId="4625" LastEditDate="2023-01-02T13:13:44.393" LastActivityDate="2023-01-02T13:13:44.393" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20396" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-12-29T16:36:24.257" Score="0" ViewCount="133" Body="&lt;p&gt;I purchased an Ender 3 v2 3D printer just before Christmas and I have the software on my laptop I was going to use for it. My laptop is a Windows 10 32-bit operating system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, the Creality slicer software v4.8 only works on 64-bit systems. Does anyone know what version I can download to use on my 32-bit Windows 10 laptop, please?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36657" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2022-12-29T18:21:43.340" LastActivityDate="2022-12-29T18:21:43.340" Title="32-bit slicer software?" Tags="|creality-ender-3|slic3r|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="4" ClosedDate="2022-12-29T20:43:31.107" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20397" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20391" CreationDate="2022-12-29T23:28:16.573" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Always try a different SD card. Make sure that it is formatted as FAT32 (maximum size 32GB).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3953" LastActivityDate="2022-12-29T23:28:16.573" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20398" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11750" CreationDate="2022-12-30T08:12:59.263" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can try using &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.c6.fabheads.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;C6 Slicer software&lt;/a&gt;, which is a Cloud-based one, no need of an application version. I think they are still in development phase, but still does give some good prints.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="35096" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2022-12-30T10:14:19.360" LastActivityDate="2022-12-30T10:14:19.360" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20399" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20400" CreationDate="2022-12-30T09:44:21.947" Score="3" ViewCount="99" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking for a tool to modify STL files to make changes, before printing it. I know that it exists, but I don't know the name of the software.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, I have a STL file for a ball and I want to modify it to be more egg shaped by extruding or pushing. I'm looking for something like in The Sims games, where I could edit terrains just by clicking mouse and creating holes and hills.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36664" LastEditorUserId="36664" LastEditDate="2023-01-02T21:42:16.457" LastActivityDate="2023-01-02T21:42:16.457" Title="Tool for modifing STLs?" Tags="|3d-design|software|stl|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20400" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20399" CreationDate="2022-12-30T10:13:07.383" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Sculpting&lt;/strong&gt; should be the tool you are looking for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can find a lot of sculpting software on the web, including free ones. I personally use Meshmixer and Blender for simple works.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27865" LastActivityDate="2022-12-30T10:13:07.383" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20401" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-12-30T18:36:10.997" Score="2" ViewCount="136" Body="&lt;p&gt;I designed a very simple boat in Tinkercad and then I printed it. No problem, but I wanted it a bit wider. So I made it wider in Tinkercad and printed it again. This second version has a crack in the right side and it had some PLA mess in the boat. I thought nothing of it and printed it again. This third print also has this crack and some leftover PLA in the boat. So I checked out the design in Tinkercad, Cura, and in the print preview in Cura. Below are the results:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/76n6d.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Screenshot of a boat modeled in Tinkercad&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/76n6d.png&quot; alt=&quot;Screenshot of a boat modeled in Tinkercad&quot; title=&quot;Screenshot of a boat modeled in Tinkercad&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rNsNl.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Screenshot of a boat rendered in Cura's preview&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rNsNl.png&quot; alt=&quot;Screenshot of a boat rendered in Cura's preview&quot; title=&quot;Screenshot of a boat rendered in Cura's preview&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gJzWN.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Screenshot of a boat rendered in Cura's preview showing a ghost layer after the model was modified&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gJzWN.png&quot; alt=&quot;Screenshot of a boat rendered in Cura's preview showing a ghost layer after the model was modified&quot; title=&quot;Screenshot of a boat rendered in Cura's preview showing a ghost layer after the model was modified&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you can see, the last image (the print preview) suddenly has this one (yellow-colored) layer which moves across the inner part of the boat. Exactly there, the boat also misses one layer from the hull, making a crack in the hull.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I then recreated the side in Tinkercad, exported another STL, and imported it into Cura again. But the ghost layer is still there. I finally tried all sorts of things, and when I recreated a little hole in the bow of the boat, the ghost layer went away.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I now wonder, how could this create the ghost layer across the inside of the boat at a place where the hole wasn't even located? And also, why could it only pop up on the print preview, and not in any of the other views?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26025" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2022-12-31T08:18:32.767" LastActivityDate="2022-12-31T08:18:32.767" Title="Where did Cura get this ghost layer from?" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|layer-shifting|ghosting|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20402" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20382" CreationDate="2023-01-01T10:44:42.813" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your CR Touch is either installed wrong or broken.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Auto home checks for the X and Y limit switches then goes to the center of the bed and drops the CR probe tip. The probe color should be total blue and the tip of the probe should drop about 5-6 mm, going well past the end of the nozzle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Z moves down, the probe tip touches, the probe is pushed into the assembly, and the light turns red. When the light goes red, the nozzle tip should still be somewhere around 1.8 to 2.0 mm above the plate. This is the Z-offset, it’s entered as a negative because that much further the nozzle must move in Z to reach the bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Repeat the measurement, retract the tip, move Z +10 mm, and stop. The probe tip when retracted should be above the nozzle tip maybe 1-2 mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If Auto home works as described above, the CR Touch is set up and working ok.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem is your Z-offset.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Set Z-offset to -5.0 mm. Run Auto Leveling, it should complete without the nozzle hitting the bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Run this procedure to set a reasonable Z-offset.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Set Z-offset to -1.72 mm on the display. Run a test print of anything. If you see string coming out of the nozzle and not sticking to the bed at all stop the print. Set Z-offset to -1.74 mm. Repeat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Continue to move down this way in -0.02 mm steps until something starts to stick, then once or twice more until you can run the test print successfully to the end.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Run Auto Leveling it will work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively, the nozzle is not installed or tightened correctly so it extends too low.&#xA;Lastly, gross mechanical misalignment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36688" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2023-01-01T14:11:24.017" LastActivityDate="2023-01-01T14:11:24.017" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20403" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20418" CreationDate="2023-01-01T17:46:26.217" Score="3" ViewCount="1114" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am pretty new to 3D-printing, and I have just finished assembling my Prusa i3 a few days ago.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I finished up basic calibrations, which went fine, but noticed my prints were coming out with a bunch of rough lines on the sides. I looked online, and saw some things about adjusting flow rate, so I took that down from 95 to 90. I am not really sure what else to try right now. I have messed with layer height, which is at 0.2 mm now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have double-checked belt tensions and messed around with it, but the belt status seems to be hovering around 267 pretty consistently. I did try loosening it a lot more, but got the around the same, ~270 at max, even when extremely loose. Not sure what the belt tension should be feeling like, but it seems to check out with the guides.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would appreciate any help or advice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rYuWe.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Test print of an SD card bear holder, layer lines seem to be sticking out&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rYuWe.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Test print of an SD card bear holder, layer lines seem to be sticking out&quot; title=&quot;Test print of an SD card bear holder, layer lines seem to be sticking out&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Calibration cube printed after tensioning the belts:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/c46X2.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Calibration cube printed after tensioning the belts&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/c46X2.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;calibration cube&quot; title=&quot;Calibration cube printed after tensioning the belts&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36694" LastEditorUserId="27865" LastEditDate="2023-01-04T00:04:14.457" LastActivityDate="2023-01-04T00:04:14.457" Title="Prints coming out with jagged lines on the sides, rough edges" Tags="|prusa-i3|calibration|prusaslicer|layer-shifting|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20404" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20403" CreationDate="2023-01-01T18:45:11.287" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is called &lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://help.prusa3d.com/article/layer-shifting_2020&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Layer shifting&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;. You should check belts tension and motor pulleys. It looks like your problem occurs only on the &lt;a href=&quot;https://help.prusa3d.com/article/adjusting-belt-tension-mk3-s_112380#x-axis-belt&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;X-axis&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27865" LastEditorUserId="27865" LastEditDate="2023-01-01T18:50:26.553" LastActivityDate="2023-01-01T18:50:26.553" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20405" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-01-01T19:43:25.830" Score="1" ViewCount="111" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an Anker Make M5, and I am trying to print something that uses the majority of the build height, its roughly a 7 h print, I got an alert 6 h in that there was an error, checked and the print was on the floor and filament spooling out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't think it's an adhesion issue as smaller prints are fine, and before it came off there was no sign of lifting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know what could cause this and fix that issue? So far I have added a raft to prints and increased bed temperature to 70 °C.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36696" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2023-01-01T21:10:40.273" LastActivityDate="2023-01-01T21:18:12.940" Title="Print falls off the bed the majority of the way through a print" Tags="|3d-models|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20406" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20417" CreationDate="2023-01-01T19:51:18.443" Score="1" ViewCount="1402" Body="&lt;p&gt;First time trying the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.3dprima.com/filaments/primacreator-easyprint-flex-95a-1-75mm-1-kg-red_24162_5259&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;EasyPrint Flex TPU filament&lt;/a&gt;. When printing a solid, I can see clear lines with plenty of air on both sides. This gives me the idea that it is not extruding enough filament.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've tried many tweaks:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Adding/removing tension to the extruder&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pulling at the filament to see if the gears have a good grip at it (they do).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Printing at ridiculously slow speeds (5 mm/s)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bypassing the runout sensor, in case that is adding too much friction or something.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Adding flow rate in Klipper (maxes out at 200 %, slight improvement)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Adding flow rate in Cura to 600 %&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The last tweak makes the most apparent improvement. Printing at 25 mm/s, it's somewhat decent. There's still some air going through each layer, but much less. The result is still dissatisfactory.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As this printer uses a direct extruder there shouldn't be any problem with the feeding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I now conclude that this is simply a crappy filament and my best bet is to buy something better? If not, then am I missing something obvious here?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36695" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2023-01-01T21:05:44.407" LastActivityDate="2023-01-03T19:18:40.917" Title="TPU on Ender 3 S1 Pro only works when flow is set to 600 %" Tags="|creality-ender-3|ultimaker-cura|klipper|tpu|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20407" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20405" CreationDate="2023-01-01T21:18:12.940" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If a print falls over you have an adhesion issue. Do note that a raft is not the most sturdy support (depending on your options), there is always an air gap between the raft top surface and the bottom print surface. A raft is generally most useful when printing materials that have a considerable amount of shrinkage when cooling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Increasing bed temperature might not be ideal either, depending on your material, if PLA, 70 °C may be too hot and thus too flexible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maybe a brim or adding &amp;quot;mouse ears&amp;quot; to your print help to improve adhesion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2023-01-01T21:18:12.940" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20408" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20412" CreationDate="2023-01-02T01:21:00.430" Score="7" ViewCount="9974" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just finished assembling my Ender 3 Pro and am having trouble with bed leveling. The extruder doesn't even come close to the bed, the z-limit stops the nozzle about 3-4 mm away.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CHT5B.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Extruder and bed gap&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CHT5B.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Extruder and bed gap&quot; title=&quot;Extruder and bed gap&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The leveling springs are already pretty uncompressed. Is there any way to decrease the gap? Should I be checking for a specific assembly step to see if I assembled it incorrectly somewhere?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36701" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2023-01-02T02:16:17.197" LastActivityDate="2023-07-02T22:52:13.377" Title="Ender 3 Pro has too much space between extruder and bed" Tags="|creality-ender-3|bed-leveling|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20410" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20408" CreationDate="2023-01-02T12:16:58.707" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's normal for your nozzle to be some distance away from the bed. It should be adjusted properly at first. Since, you can't move your nozzle any lower, you should follow these steps:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Lowering Z-endstop&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can manually reduce the distance between the nozzle and the bed by moving Z-endstop. Find the Z-axis limit switch (which is located on the left Z-axis on Ender-3) and loosen its screws. Next, set the switch a little lower to minimize Z-offset.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Adjusting with bed leveling knobs&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It looks like you still have some space between the bed level knob and the bed. You can lower this distance by turning the knob clockwise (looking from the top). You should turn all four knobs exactly the same amount. Do not turn the knobs more than one turn, lower the Z-endstop first. This option should be executed last to calibrate the offset as precisely as possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The nozzle shouldn't be touching the build plate, because it will damage the printing surface. To check if the distance is set correctly, you can print &lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.printables.com/pl/model/252059-perfect-first-layer-test&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;first layer test model&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;. It may be necessary to level the bed at first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27865" LastEditorUserId="27865" LastEditDate="2023-01-02T21:40:25.777" LastActivityDate="2023-01-02T21:40:25.777" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20411" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19917" CreationDate="2023-01-02T14:39:00.653" Score="0" Body="&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;It's most likely that your bed does not mechanically reach the correct position before the printer starts curing the resin. Many printers and slicer software allow setting &lt;code&gt;wait_time_before_cure&lt;/code&gt; to e.g. 6 s (I don't know about your printer/slicer). That means that once your bed has presumably reached its position for curing, it waits another 6 s to settle mechanically. If your slicer software does not allow to set &lt;code&gt;wait_time_before_cure&lt;/code&gt; (or similarly named) but your printer can handle &lt;code&gt;wait_time_before_cure&lt;/code&gt;, you can use the open source tool &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/sn4k3/UVtools&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;UVtools&lt;/a&gt; to do that. (Edit: I just saw &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/sn4k3/UVtools/discussions/626&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;a discussion&lt;/a&gt; so it's basically possible with your machine even though not optimally so.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;It's much less likely that your FEP has become less transparent towards the edges of the vat. You could fix that by putting a new FEP on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Bottom layer exposure&lt;/strong&gt;: Once you increased &lt;code&gt;wait_time_before_cure&lt;/code&gt;, you can go with something around 7 s.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Z lift speed: 360 mm/sec&lt;/strong&gt;: if the printer could achieve the acceleration necessary, it meant that your bed could jump within less than a second to the top of the rails :-) Set it to something in the order of 50 to 80 mm/s.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Peel force is very unlikely an issue with this 3D model and orientation on the print bed. We have printed 1000 s of similar models flat on the print bed, so orientation is likely ok.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Leveling of the bed seems ok as the peeling happens on all sides symmetrically? If it wasn't symmetrical, bad leveling might also have an influence.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="33932" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2023-01-02T15:57:06.867" LastActivityDate="2023-01-02T15:57:06.867" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20412" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20408" CreationDate="2023-01-02T14:43:34.920" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is only one thing you can do &lt;strong&gt;if there are no more threads left on the levelling screws&lt;/strong&gt;, you need to move the Z-end stop assembly (depicted in the front left of your photo) to a lower position. Just unscrew the two hex screws a little and move the assembly down (blue arrow direction in the bottom/last image below). However, the more recent Ender 3 versions have a notch on the Z-end stop bracket:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ClnLI.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ClnLI.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That notch rests on the frame:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ddAX4.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ddAX4.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should not be lowering this notch lower than the aluminum frame top.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Referring to your image and enlarging it, it appears you still have some threads left (encircled in red), this may be enough to get the bed to the nozzle (note that the leveling screw contains a knurled brass M3 insert, so you should be able to unscrew a little further):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AODf9.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AODf9.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If not, you should first unscrew the levelling screws a little so that you can properly tram the bed (alternatively, use longer countersunk screws). A detailed description can be found at &lt;a href=&quot;https://all3dp.com/2/ender-3-pro-z-offset/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;All3DP's Ender 3 (Pro) Z Offset: How to Adjust It&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bcOiA.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bcOiA.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2023-01-04T09:46:43.453" LastActivityDate="2023-01-04T09:46:43.453" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20413" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20272" CreationDate="2023-01-02T14:45:02.110" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can do this with the open-source tool &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/sn4k3/UVtools&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;UVtools&lt;/a&gt;. I don't know if there is a built-in method but you can certainly achieve it by writing a short script.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't find the option in the menu, you can ask in the &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/sn4k3/UVtools/discussions&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;forum&lt;/a&gt;. Tiago, the father of UVTools, is a very kind and knowledgeable person.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="33932" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2023-01-02T15:53:31.540" LastActivityDate="2023-01-02T15:53:31.540" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20414" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7264" CreationDate="2023-01-02T19:07:04.067" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Assuming you already know your Z-offset value, there are several ways to set Z-offset for your printer:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;on printer's display&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the printer's LCD, navigate to &lt;strong&gt;Control&lt;/strong&gt; &amp;gt; &lt;strong&gt;Motion&lt;/strong&gt; &amp;gt; &lt;strong&gt;Z Offset&lt;/strong&gt;. Here you can set the Z-Offset value. Next, navigate to &lt;strong&gt;Control&lt;/strong&gt; &amp;gt; &lt;strong&gt;Store settings&lt;/strong&gt; to store this offset permanently to EEPROM.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The location of this setting may vary depending on the printer and firmware, but it is usually located in the &lt;strong&gt;Control&lt;/strong&gt; section.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;in slicer&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Z-offset value can be set in slicer, from where it will be added at the beginning of each generated G-code file.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;PrusaSlicer&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Navigate to &lt;strong&gt;Printer Settings&lt;/strong&gt; &amp;gt; &lt;strong&gt;Size and coordinates&lt;/strong&gt; &amp;gt; &lt;strong&gt;Z offset&lt;/strong&gt;. Requires an &lt;strong&gt;advanced&lt;/strong&gt; view mode.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Psq65.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Psq65.png&quot; alt=&quot;PrusaSlicer Z-offset setting&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;SuperSlicer&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Navigate to &lt;strong&gt;Printer Settings&lt;/strong&gt; &amp;gt; &lt;strong&gt;Size and coordinates&lt;/strong&gt; &amp;gt; &lt;strong&gt;Z offset&lt;/strong&gt;. Requires an &lt;strong&gt;expert&lt;/strong&gt; view mode.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OqeFr.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OqeFr.png&quot; alt=&quot;SuperSlicer Z-offset setting&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Cura&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Navigate to &lt;strong&gt;Print settings&lt;/strong&gt; &amp;gt; &lt;strong&gt;Build Plate Adhesion&lt;/strong&gt; &amp;gt; &lt;strong&gt;Z Offset&lt;/strong&gt;. Requires &lt;a href=&quot;https://marketplace.ultimaker.com/app/cura/plugins/fieldofview/ZOffsetPlugin&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Z Offset Setting&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt; plugin installed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/b0mED.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/b0mED.png&quot; alt=&quot;Cura Z-offset setting&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;in G-code&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It can be set with &lt;code&gt;M851&lt;/code&gt; command, followed by &lt;code&gt;M500&lt;/code&gt; to store it in the EEPROM. For example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;   M851 Z-0.69;&#xA;   M500;&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;in firmware&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In &lt;strong&gt;Configuration.h&lt;/strong&gt;, find &lt;code&gt;NOZZLE_TO_PROBE_OFFSET&lt;/code&gt; and set third parameter (Z-offset):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;    #define NOZZLE_TO_PROBE_OFFSET {&#xA;       -53.5,   // X-offset&#xA;       8,       // Y-offset&#xA;       -0.69 }  // Z-offset &amp;lt;-- set it here&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I usually set it via &lt;strong&gt;printer's display&lt;/strong&gt;, since it seems like the fastest and most practical way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27865" LastActivityDate="2023-01-02T19:07:04.067" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20415" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-01-02T22:50:33.850" Score="2" ViewCount="1058" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently purchased an MKS Robin wifi module for my spouse's FLSUN Super Racer after noticing that the printer runs on an MKS Robin Nano V3.1 board. Immediately after installing the chip, I saw it broadcasting a network, so I connected to it and opened the admin in my browser:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tYdIo.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tYdIo.png&quot; alt=&quot;screenshot of MKS Robin wifi module admin&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The next few steps seemed pretty straightforward.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Update the firmware&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Setup the wifi connection&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Connect using the MKS wifi plugin for Cura&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I entered the information for my home network and uploaded the firmware. The device quickly updated and gave me a success message before disconnecting the public network it was broadcasting. I then checked my router's device table to see if anything new was connected, but there was nothing. Scratching my head, I troubleshot for about an hour before concluding that I had done something wrong, and now there was nothing I could do, so best to return the chip and get my money back.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was about to do that this morning and tried to log in on Amazon, but I had no internet connection. So I checked the gateway and opened the admin, and (drum roll) was the admin for the wifi module! What gives?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I put in the information for my home network, it took that as setup steps for its hotspot, so I had inadvertently logged in thinking it was my home network.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Feeling excited, I decided to try out the MKS Wifi plugin while I was on its network, and the connection was a success!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a moment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After queuing up a print, I realized it wasn't working. I get an error message in Cura that reads, &amp;quot;Send file to printer failed.&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found new firmware and a web view for BeePrint &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/xreef/MKS_WIFI_upgrade_with_BeePrint_web_interface/raw/master/firmware_release/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;. The only thing I have not done at this point is to update the web view. My best guess is that a newer version may not be so bare-bones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After uploading the new firmware and the web view, it still has not been updated. It's the same boring admin, although I did change the wireless SSID.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am not sure where to go from here. I watched a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0GKT0hw_K-4&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;video&lt;/a&gt; about setting up the wifi module using Klipper, but completely re-flashing the firmware on the device is not a route that I would like to go. I am worried that I may not have the expertise necessary to pull it off successfully, that even if I do, the printer may not work as well, or worse, I could turn it into a brick with no ability to restore the firmware from backup.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any way to get this wifi module working without those steps? From what I understand, FLSUN does have delta printers with this module installed, but not on the Super Racer. I checked Github for anything in the SR's firmware that might indicate hidden support but found nothing. Is there a way to do this using the factory-installed firmware, or will I have to use something else?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="33855" LastActivityDate="2023-01-12T05:25:53.837" Title="Configure MKS Robin WiFi Module on FLSUN Super Racer without Klipper" Tags="|firmware|mks|klipper|wi-fi|flsun|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20416" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-01-03T12:25:32.427" Score="1" ViewCount="69" Body="&lt;p&gt;I created some G-code for my printer according to &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.cnckitchen.com/blog/extrusion-system-benchmark-tool-for-fast-prints&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Extrusion System Benchmark Tool for Fast Prints&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Everything seems normal and the G-code preview also looks normal. However, the blobs that are supposed to be extruded are really slow. So slow in fact that I first thought the printer had crashed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I checked the G-code of that particular move:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;G1 Z10.5 E200 F4.99 ; Extrude&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So 200 mm of filament are supposed to be extruded with a speed of 4.99 mm/min at 4 mm³/s, which seems slow to start with, but I calculated the volume of that move.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$4.99\ {mm}/min = 0.08\ {mm}/s$&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$cross\ section\ of\ 1.75\ mm\ filament = 2.405\ {mm}^2$&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$0.08\ {mm}/s * 2.405\ {mm}^2 = 0.2\ {mm}^3/s$&lt;/span&gt; which is quite some way off the targeted 4.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems that the &lt;code&gt;F4.99&lt;/code&gt; speed is applied to the movement of the Z-axis, not to the speed of the extrusion. My printer is Marlin based, so I wonder why the G-code is interpreted like that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36718" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2023-01-03T14:31:03.333" LastActivityDate="2023-01-03T14:31:03.333" Title="CNC Kitchens flow calibration script - too little extrusion" Tags="|marlin|g-code|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="12" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20417" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20406" CreationDate="2023-01-03T19:04:37.120" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.creality.com/products/sprite-extruder-pro-kit&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Creality Sprite Extruder Pro&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The tension is controlled by a bolt with a square-shaped nut that is pressing on the lever with a spring. To increase tension to the gears that feed the filament the adjustment bolt is turned clockwise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, you have to be very careful not to turn it too far, or the bolt will unhook from the internal nut. Turning anti-clockwise in this situation does nothing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're lucky, like I was, it will get stuck in a position of max tension no matter what you do. If unlucky, the various parts can go into the gears and cause permanent damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is a most unfortunate design as there is no way to tell if you turned it too far!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my case, having it at max tension at all times caused it to under-extrude. Adding more flow alleviated the problem somewhat. I had to open everything up to see what was going on there. In my case, just putting the nut back on the bolt solved my problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;TPU is much softer than PLA so it's more sensitive to tension. While PLA can print okay at max tension, TPU cannot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aieth.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aieth.png&quot; alt=&quot;Tension adjustment bolt&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36695" LastEditorUserId="36695" LastEditDate="2023-01-03T19:18:40.917" LastActivityDate="2023-01-03T19:18:40.917" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20418" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20403" CreationDate="2023-01-03T22:54:01.030" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It must have been something with the G-code, or how I was slicing it. I tried printing from the files that were already loaded on the SD card when I got it and it came out much better. I then modeled a cube and sliced it up carefully in PrusaSlicer and it also came out almost perfectly. Thanks to everyone who chimed in, really appreciate it and hope this can help someone else.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36694" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2023-01-03T23:31:25.740" LastActivityDate="2023-01-03T23:31:25.740" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20419" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20421" CreationDate="2023-01-05T18:46:10.763" Score="2" ViewCount="875" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there a convention for the scale of the 3D printing STL files that are shared online and/or expected by 3-D printers?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found a model on Thingiverse that is useful for my project, a connector that must fit with other parts, so precision is important. Eyeballing, it seems that each STL unit corresponds to 1 millimeter, is this a safe/conventional assumption?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36757" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2023-01-05T19:14:40.653" LastActivityDate="2023-01-08T17:42:46.110" Title="Is there a conventional scale for 3D printing models?" Tags="|3d-models|stl|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20421" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20419" CreationDate="2023-01-06T03:40:42.450" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The STL File format is unitless, It only contains relative positions for the vertices of the mesh which makes up the part. As such, there is no true &amp;quot;standard.&amp;quot; However, most 3D printing focused slicers will import STL files on the millimeter scale.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The vast majority of STL files you find online &lt;em&gt;will&lt;/em&gt; be in &lt;strong&gt;mm&lt;/strong&gt; units, however, It's important to note that such is not always the case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Typically however, a file imported in the wrong unit will be &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; obvious, and unless the model author has done something very unusual, scaling should be trivial within your slicer software of choice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6996" LastActivityDate="2023-01-06T03:40:42.450" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20422" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19751" CreationDate="2023-01-06T04:28:09.437" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;While heat creep as you describe it &lt;em&gt;is&lt;/em&gt; a concern, The more pressing reason to let a hotend cool off first is &lt;strong&gt;safety&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A hotend at printing temperature can be &amp;gt;200°C, with little to no airflow it may STAY at a dangerous temperature for a significant amount of time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not only can it burn you if it touches, It may be dangerous if the hotend starts moving &lt;em&gt;after&lt;/em&gt; the printer turns off (In systems that cannot passively maintain Z especially)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Aswell, the remaining thermal energy may be enough to &amp;quot;cook&amp;quot; the residual polymers &lt;em&gt;inside&lt;/em&gt; the nozzle or hot-zone, which can cause future clogging and extrusion issues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6996" LastActivityDate="2023-01-06T04:28:09.437" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20423" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20077" CreationDate="2023-01-06T04:41:23.970" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It looks like your build-plate (print bed) is out-of-level. Specifically, your printer's nozzle is &lt;strong&gt;too close&lt;/strong&gt; to the build plate as witnessed by the first layer being semi-translucent in some areas but not others; This indicates it's very thin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The defect you see is parts of the first layer being 'peeled' up by the printhead as it moves by, as excess plastic has built up in those areas, causing the hot-end to smash into them and delaminate them as it attempts to print other parts of the part.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't already know how to level/tram your bed, check out your printer's manual for instructions (if it has any) or read a &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/474/6996&quot;&gt;Bed-Levelling guide&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6996" LastActivityDate="2023-01-06T04:41:23.970" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20424" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12130" CreationDate="2023-01-06T04:48:36.980" Score="1" Body="&lt;h1&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Yes&lt;/strong&gt;*&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any FEP film you find will work fine with any SLA printer you come across. Some may work 'better' or 'worse' depending on the quality of the film, but, for the most part they will all just work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The caveat is that you must ensure the film is of the correct dimension for the resin vat, If it's too small you may be unable to clamp the sheet in taut enough to get a proper seal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;ASWELL&lt;/strong&gt;, Some SLA printers do &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; have a standard 'sheet' style FEP, instead opting for a proprietary/semi-proprietary 'cartridge' style FEP. In these cases, unless you can find some form of 'adapter' or aftermarket upgrade, you will be unable to swap FEP films outside of said cartridges sold by your printer manufacturer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the case of your Phrozen Sonic Mini, It looks like it uses the standard sheet-style method, You should have no problems with replacing the FEP with an aftermarket sheet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6996" LastActivityDate="2023-01-06T04:48:36.980" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20425" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20430" CreationDate="2023-01-06T04:55:10.233" Score="3" ViewCount="1250" Body="&lt;p&gt;This would be my first ever 3D printing&#xA;I previously worked in Sketchup to generate simple objects, mostly floor plans and various small objects mostly for visualizing and designing things.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am now trying to print a dust collector (hose) adapter that would connect my vacuum to my table saw guard. I have the model already (looks like below), I have managed to get quotes from 3D printing service providers so apparently everything looks OK&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I still have doubts regarding the stability of the object during the 3D printing.&#xA;How can I verify if everything is OK in that respect? I plan to print at our local public library which offers free printing (you pay the materials)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is my model, the OD at the base is 64.3 mm (2 17/32&amp;quot;, the height is 288.1 mm):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/g8HqX.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/g8HqX.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://drive.google.com/file/d/1hGMpJfpFLHW0tBs2jVpVQWTiLIZi15Js/view?usp=sharing&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Here&lt;/a&gt; is the link to the file.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it matters the local public library branch has the following 3D printers which I can use:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The LulzBot TAZ,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The Maker Bot Replicator 2&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The Ultimaker 2 Plus&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36761" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2023-01-07T13:56:28.737" LastActivityDate="2023-01-08T12:34:44.223" Title="How can I test if my model can be 3D printed without having a printer?" Tags="|support-structures|part-testing|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20426" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19751" CreationDate="2023-01-06T09:43:24.073" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If there is nothing out of plastic place nearby or inside, it should be fine. It won't take more than a couple of minutes to go down to 100 °C or so, so plastic leftover inside won't cook. Plastic outside from the mount may soften and weaken the assembly, so I would wait until the hotend is at 100 °C or so. With a fan on, it should happen in a minute or so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2338" LastActivityDate="2023-01-06T09:43:24.073" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20427" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20425" CreationDate="2023-01-06T09:44:58.693" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The shape seems very easily printable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only part which will need supports is the bottom side of the rectangular connection port, in the figure just right to the quote &amp;quot;11 21/32&amp;quot;. That part, if it doesn't need to be connected to anything else or doesn't need to be exactly horizontal, can be modified to be slightly slanted, see video below with the issue and solution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/HXO-a7riOuo?start=0&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remeber that the height of the ramp depends on the depth of the overhang part. In the video the ratio is about 0.4 mm ramp height per 2.5 mm unsupported overhang. I would change it to be safer, 0.4 mm per 2.0 mm overhang, so (no less than!) 1 to 5. If your square connector is 5 mm deep (I mean measuring on the outer side of the opening, you get it), use a ramp 1 mm tall or more. The angle will be 11 degrees from horizontal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Printers may struggle when the angle from horizontal is less than 20, but it's worth a try... or simply make it a bit taller, 0.4 mm per 1.5 mm overhang.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once printed, file the ramp out so it becomes horizontal again. Try to use ABS if you can, it does better overhangs than PETG. PLA may work too but it's quite brittle if you hit it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2338" LastActivityDate="2023-01-06T09:44:58.693" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20428" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-01-06T11:25:15.757" Score="2" ViewCount="76" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am building my own 3D printer and I finish almost everything the only thing that I can't solve is how to start the extruder stepper motor. I am using Pronterface and Marlin. I can't even make the motor rotate in Pronterface when I manually set the extruding temperature to 0 °C and then try to start the motor, it won't start.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I tried so far:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Changing to use drivers in Marlin&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Testing drivers to see if they work&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Testing the stepper motor to see if it works&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Seting up Pronterface in different ways&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36769" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2023-02-06T09:20:55.413" LastActivityDate="2023-02-06T09:20:55.413" Title="Extruder MK8 won't turn using RAMPS 1.4 with Marlin" Tags="|extruder|ramps-1.4|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20429" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20450" CreationDate="2023-01-06T21:44:26.463" Score="8" ViewCount="1114" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to add neodymium magnets during print. The model, which I would like to print, has fully enclosed holes made for placing magnets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Lz3bj.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Lz3bj.png&quot; alt=&quot;Hole prepared for magnet placing&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I added pause on layer (&lt;code&gt;M601&lt;/code&gt;) in slicer. Since, this is a very long print, I would like to avoid any problems. I read that the magnet can attach to the nozzle while printing. How can I avoid this, and what else should I watch out for? How should I prepare in advance for magnets placing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27865" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2023-09-08T12:09:17.990" LastActivityDate="2023-09-08T12:09:17.990" Title="How to add magnets to 3D print mid-print?" Tags="|3d-models|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20430" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20425" CreationDate="2023-01-06T22:48:20.397" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;SketchUp is known to create models which fail in the slicer or during the print. It's a good idea to use a resource to check for flaws/errors in the model. These errors can be quite varied. &lt;a href=&quot;https://all3dp.com/2/stl-repair-fixer-tool-online-offline/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;All3DP&lt;/a&gt; has a somewhat misleading presentation purporting to provide resources to repair damaged models, but the linked page merely describes those factors which are to be considered when examining a model. This particular link is included for completeness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Non-manifold builds, intersecting faces, non-intersecting faces (holes) and others are listed in the linked article and are to be avoided/repaired prior to printing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some slicers will identify and auto-repair a model if the &amp;quot;damage&amp;quot; is not too severe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Windows 10 and up includes 3DBuilder, which will also identify flawed models and attempt to repair them. Despite being bundled with Windows 10, it is a capable program for checking a build.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Meshmixer (windows) also has Analysis, Inspector to identify problem areas, and also to repair them. For your model, Meshmixer does not identify any failure points, making a repair unwarranted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An online &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.nanodlp.com/repair-3d-stl-file/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;repair resource from NanoDLP&lt;/a&gt; exists but does not display any information, merely repairs the model and makes the repair STL file available for download. There may be others of value online, use search terms &amp;quot;online 3D model repair.&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can identify the slicer used by the library, it's possible/likely that it is a free download. PrusaSlicer, for example, will provide notification when a suspect model is loaded and will auto-repair. As noted above, your model does not have flaws; loading the model will provide other resources such as slicing and g-code preview as requested in your question. Other slicers are available for free download as well, including Cura, as referenced in the video.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The overhang mentioned by @FarO is a valid concern and the video provides a useful solution to the possibility of drooping during the print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Angus of Maker's Muse on YouTube has a couple of videos covering design considerations to reduce or eliminate the need for supports, a version of the video linked by @FarO:&#xA;&lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/RPijCjz9G1w?start=0&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's similar in respect to adding material to the model, creating a change from overhang to bridging.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've had to print a counter-bore with the major diameter on the build plate. This created an unsupported bottom of the counter-bore &amp;quot;floating&amp;quot; above the plate. To fill this area with supports via the slicer would have been detrimental to the print quality and possibly resulted in impossible to remove supports.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Angus' method served well in that I created a cylinder 0.4 mm larger in diameter than the minor diameter of the hole, placed directly in the center. This cylinder created a bridge from the major diameter, with an overlap of one nozzle width, which was easily snapped clear. One could have even less of an overlap by using 0.2 mm delta.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the case of your vacuum nozzle, the overhang could be changed from the method presented in the video to a few gussets perpendicular to the surface under the overhang. This would &amp;quot;bookend&amp;quot; the overhang, creating bridging of the shelf, rather than drooping.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rKP7p.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rKP7p.png&quot; alt=&quot;bookend shelf support image&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This image above is a hastily thrown-together example of the suggested option. The difference between the left and right support panel is the result of sloppy and hasty creation on my part, not a reflection of the model construction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Addressing the question&lt;/strong&gt; in the comments regarding print time, multiple factors are to be considered. Print speed for the specific filament type is the first. PLA can tolerate relatively high speeds compared to other filaments, especially flexible types. Layer height is also a consideration. A model printed at 0.300 mm layer height will print more quickly than one printed at a common 0.150 mm or 0.200 mm height. Layer lines will be much more visible on non-vertical faces when printed at 0.300 millimeter layer height, but for a utilitarian purpose such as yours, that's insignificant, in my opinion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The slicer program selected will also be a factor. At 0.300 mm height, one of my slicers presents a 7 hour 22 minute result, while another suggests 8 hours 32 minutes. As both are in excess of your allowed time, you'll have to improvise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One option, based on the duration limitations, would be to segment the model in a manner to allow easy assembly after printing, then glue the segments in place. Super-glue-type adhesives are prone to becoming brittle and fail, while solvent types are more likely to create a better bond. A popular adhesive, from my experience as well, is E6000.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you split this model, use a horizontal plane cut to maintain the vertical orientation. It will provide the fastest printing. You can also create the plane cut at the overhang area, removing the need for manipulating support structures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastEditorUserId="854" LastEditDate="2023-01-08T10:23:28.797" LastActivityDate="2023-01-08T10:23:28.797" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20431" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20429" CreationDate="2023-01-06T22:54:37.830" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Unless you are using a nozzle made of magnetic metal, the magnet will not attach to the nozzle. The heater blocks are usually aluminum, the nozzles are brass or copper, although some can be steel. Other portions of your extruder assembly could be a factor but I've not seen examples.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pass the magnet under the nozzle area close enough to touch the nozzle. This will provide indication of which portions of the assembly might attract the magnet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Consider to apply some super-glue-type adhesive and allowing sufficient time to cure (or use a thin layer of moisture on the magnet, or an accelerator) to provide additional security. Even a small segment of double-stick tape may provide the level of assurance you require.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastActivityDate="2023-01-06T22:54:37.830" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20432" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20428" CreationDate="2023-01-06T23:37:04.813" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You cannot drive the extruder unless you heat the nozzle to at least 170 °C, this is the default value in Marlin. This is to protect your printer from extruding at too low temperatures (which can harm your nozzle or extruder or grind the filament).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can disable this feature by G-code using &lt;a href=&quot;https://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M302.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;M302&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;code&gt;M302 S0&lt;/code&gt; will disable the limit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;always allow extrusion (disable checking)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In Marlin, cold extrusion is prevented in the &lt;code&gt;Configuration.h&lt;/code&gt; file:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;// @section safety&#xA;&#xA;/**&#xA; * Prevent extrusion if the temperature is below EXTRUDE_MINTEMP.&#xA; * Add M302 to set the minimum extrusion temperature and/or turn&#xA; * cold extrusion prevention on and off.&#xA; *&#xA; * *** IT IS HIGHLY RECOMMENDED TO LEAVE THIS OPTION ENABLED! ***&#xA; */&#xA;#define PREVENT_COLD_EXTRUSION&#xA;#define EXTRUDE_MINTEMP 170&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2023-02-06T09:20:01.407" LastActivityDate="2023-02-06T09:20:01.407" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20433" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10345" CreationDate="2023-01-07T00:21:27.767" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Reviving old thread...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have same problem on Ender-3 V2 and two BLTouch sensors. So far, Oscar's idea of screwing in the T10 Torx screw on the BLTouch seems to be working. When the torx screw is screwed in you can see the tip of the probe being pushed out a bit. Evidently, there is a magnet in the BLTouch and there is some metal part on the probe that is attracted to the magnet. When the probe gets close enough to the magnet it snaps to the upper (stowed) position. The Torx screw adjusts the position of the magnet. By screwing the Torx in the magnet is closer to the probe and the probe snaps to the magnet sooner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The BLTouch firmware can detect when the probe has been been snapped up by the magnet. Apparently, the firmware will only probe downward a limited amount. If the probe is not snapped to the magnet by the end of that travel the firmware will abort the probe. My guess is that from the factory the BLTouch is adjusted at the ragged edge of the firmware's detection travel. By screwing it in a bit it the probe stays within the firmware's travel limit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since I haven't disassembled either of my BLTouchs this is mostly speculative. Caveat emptor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;BTW, my printer is connected to Octoprint on Android tablet. Disconnecting the Octoprint and USB cable didn't help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36776" LastActivityDate="2023-01-07T00:21:27.767" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20434" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14031" CreationDate="2023-01-07T10:30:51.167" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You are right! This thread help me solve a 1 year old problem. I had to buy a new LCD(different model) because I had the same problem. Every time I press down the controller button the system resets. Your clue about it having something to do with the speaker helped solve this mystery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had to comment out #define SPEAKER and it is now working.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a strange bug that only occurs with a the SKR-E3mini V2 and the most basic 12864 LCD AND Marlin 2.1.1. I have 2 printers so I can pretty much confirm in my case it only occurs in this particular configuration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36779" LastActivityDate="2023-01-07T10:30:51.167" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20435" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20436" CreationDate="2023-01-07T22:57:19.543" Score="2" ViewCount="518" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just got an Ender 3 Pro for Christmas and, aside from firmware, I have made no changes to it whatsoever. Until yesterday, my printer was running all prints flawlessly. The only thing that changed was the filament, but I don't think that's the issue because the problem only starts to occur at a certain Z height.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I've ensured:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The firmware is up to date&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The filament is dry&#xA;the X, Y, and Z axis all have no bumps or obstructions (lead screws and belts are fine; wheels and bolts all good, etc.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I have the right temperature (200 °C as printed on my PLA filament's label)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The filament is not tangled&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There is no nozzle jam&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I have retraction enabled properly in my Ultimaker Cura settings&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The file is not corrupt (I've remade it, re-installed Ultimaker Cura, reformatted my SD card, etc.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The extruder is not slipping or chewing into the filament&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;My bed is leveled&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I've noticed aside from the crappy prints:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There's an intermittent &amp;quot;thump&amp;quot; sound coming from the extruder, that as far as I can tell, is caused by the wheels &amp;quot;snapping back&amp;quot; suddenly sometimes.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The filament seems to be from a cheap Chinese brand: Sunlu.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Images of a good print and a bad print. These are the same version of the same G-code file printed at the same settings on the same printer in the same conditions. (EDIT: I removed the good print images because of a logo they contained that I am trying to limit public exposure to.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0iuB2.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Side view of the badly printed model&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0iuB2.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Side view of the badly printed model&quot; title=&quot;Side view of the badly printed model&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36785" LastEditorUserId="36785" LastEditDate="2023-03-02T18:17:43.123" LastActivityDate="2023-03-02T18:17:43.123" Title="My prints have started to turn to mush at a certain Z height" Tags="|creality-ender-3|print-failure|stringing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20436" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20435" CreationDate="2023-01-08T01:01:32.903" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The thump and the appearance of the print are indications of underextrusion. Tracking the source of this failure can be challenging, especially considering how many factors you've included in your question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Consider to create a model of smaller or larger diameter than the existing troublesome object. Adjust the height of the model in inverse proportion to the diameter change, that is, if the diameter is smaller, increase the height.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, if the problem is heat creep in the nozzle, it can appear at a specific duration of the print. By decreasing the diameter of the object, the failure point should appear at a higher level, more or less confirming that time is a factor, pointing to heat creep.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Consider also to download and print a suitably configured temperature tower. This will allow you to reference the time factor again, but also allow you to expand the range of printing temperatures you can use for that specific color and manufacturer of filament.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastActivityDate="2023-01-08T01:01:32.903" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20437" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20425" CreationDate="2023-01-08T12:34:44.223" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I test if my model can be 3D printed without having a printer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Find out what printer is used and slice the print yourself using free tools like PrusaSlicer, Slic3r, Ultimaker Cura, etc..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the mentioned printers, none of these allows for the tube to be printed upright, the TAZ has the largest height of 285 mm (depending on the exact version they have), your object is 288 mm...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;e.g. One of my printer cannot take the object upright:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/prJX8.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/prJX8.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This means that you are left to two options, cut the object into two pieces and design a coupling between the two pieces, or you need to modify the orientation of the object.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do note that orientation of the print on the plate can do a lot to print object that sometimes do not appear to fit on the plate or in the volume.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;E.g., you could print the tube other than upright, see below (it fits my 200x300 mm printer):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EZm87.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EZm87.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is sliced with support, but, a smaller scaled version printed fine without support. The larger version and the shallow incline of the tube need support for the full size print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Scaled version of the tube printed without supports:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aIl8x.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aIl8x.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think the best solution is to break up the part into two pieces and design an appropriate coupling. This would give you 2 parts, but the printing time and the amount of support will be minimum. The less time and the less support the higher the chance the parts print in one go without failing. It is also best to print the two parts after each other, else you will have the nozzle to retract (takes time) in between the two parts if printed together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2023-01-08T12:34:44.223" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20438" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20419" CreationDate="2023-01-08T17:42:46.110" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;STL files are based on coordinates rather than individual units of measurement as they're supposed to be completely unit agnostic in order to allow them to be evenly scaled on any platform, and to not be bogged down with unit translations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Typically, the units are set by whoever makes the model, and by whatever the default of the software that they use is. In most cases, creators use a one-to-one scale.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, the answer to your question is that the conventional scale is &amp;quot;100%&amp;quot;. Though probably isn't the answer that you're looking for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you print it at 100% it will be whatever size the creator intended it to be. For example, if you were printing a Warhammer miniature and it has a base attached to it, and you print it at 100% then that base will be 25mm wide, and the figure will be the exact height that the creator intended it to be. Whatever that height is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the purpose of your question, if the part &amp;quot;looks&amp;quot; like it was created in MM then it almost certainly was.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you take that STL file and put it into your slicer, then use the default scale (100%), you can use the slicer to determine how its width or height or length in MM. Just set the scale of the model to whatever makes that dimension the same as the dimension you need it to be and the rest of the model will be scaled accordingly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your biggest problem might actually be the material that you use, as some will shrink after printing, or shrink unevenly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="29097" LastActivityDate="2023-01-08T17:42:46.110" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20440" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-01-08T23:50:34.733" Score="0" ViewCount="889" Body="&lt;p&gt;Installed a BLTouch on an Ender 5 Pro. As usual, the official firmware from Creality is buggy trash (wrong BLTouch offsets, only 9 point probing, etc.) and useless to me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I compiled and flashed the TH3D Unified firmware, which works well other than the fact that I have to redo the Z-offset via tune every time I do a print, as it does not apply the stored value (it does retain the value however). So the first print the Z-offset is ~ -11, and the next time it is -22, -33, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why is it doing this and how can I fix it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Config files (Using marlin bugfix 2.1.x):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1rLc0XlNgTj02fTgg2V190oUmv1MEOt_f&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1rLc0XlNgTj02fTgg2V190oUmv1MEOt_f&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Side note:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I was able to get the Creality stock firmware working by switching some wires around on the extruder and manually setting the offsets in pronterface, so anyone else in my predicament can at least do that- but I'm still stuck with v2.0.6 .bin file only and only 9 probing points so I really need a Marlin version that works as intended that I can compile myself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why is it that the latest Marlin often doesn't work on Creality printers and we are forced to use one that is years old?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14623" LastEditorUserId="14623" LastEditDate="2023-01-13T07:11:53.977" LastActivityDate="2023-04-22T23:42:38.690" Title="Ender 5 Pro w/4.2.2 &amp; BLTouch does not apply previously saved Z-offset" Tags="|marlin|print-axis-offset|th3d|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20441" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-01-09T04:46:46.013" Score="0" ViewCount="447" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just bought a new Ender 3v2 from MicroCenter. When I attempt to start a print, the printer backs the filament completely out of the extruder, up the feeding tube and out of the machine. I'm running PLA+ in it. The first time, the nozzle was blocked, but it is still doing it and the nozzle is not obstructed in any way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36798" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2023-01-09T12:19:04.423" LastActivityDate="2023-01-11T02:34:01.810" Title="New Ender 3 v2: the printer backs the filament completely out of the extruder" Tags="|creality-ender-3|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20442" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-01-09T13:54:48.210" Score="1" ViewCount="52" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a &lt;strong&gt;Flsun Q5&lt;/strong&gt; which I am trying to get to communicate with my python script. The script is this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;import serial&#xA;from time import sleep&#xA;&#xA;COMMAND = 'M105' # Request for temperature&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;ser = serial.Serial(port='COM4', baudrate=115200)&#xA;print('Connected to Printer... T-2s\n')&#xA;sleep(2)&#xA;ser.write(f'{COMMAND}\n'.encode('utf-8'))&#xA;print(f'&amp;gt;&amp;gt;&amp;gt; {COMMAND}')&#xA;sleep(20)  # Allow time for response&#xA;response = ser.readline()&#xA;print(response.decode('ascii'))&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But it returns &lt;code&gt;ok 0&lt;/code&gt; everytime (even when asked for firmware i.e., &lt;code&gt;M115&lt;/code&gt;):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;&amp;gt;&amp;gt;&amp;gt; M105&#xA;ok 0&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I hit with a &lt;code&gt;G28&lt;/code&gt; command, the printer does move like its supposed to, but it responds with &lt;code&gt;ok 0&lt;/code&gt;. It's like it responds like that to everything. I have tried messing with that &lt;strong&gt;20s&lt;/strong&gt; timeout, but no matter what, it does not do anything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do I get the temperature of the bed? TIA.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36780" LastActivityDate="2023-01-09T13:54:48.210" Title="Flsun Q5 returns 'ok 0' as response to every command" Tags="|marlin|g-code|serial-connection|python|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20443" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20429" CreationDate="2023-01-09T19:43:30.563" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've certainly had this happen. While it didn't attach directly to the head, it attached to the steel roller bearings that moved the head, as well as the BL touch probe!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The type of magnet matters as well. If you're just using a regular steel or ceramic magnet, you probably won't have a problem since they usually aren't strong enough to lift themselves the inch or two required. But if you're using a neodymium magnet, then those certainly are.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've done three things to solve it:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Learned the tolerance of my machine so I know how large of an opening to make for the magnet so it ends up being a bit of a press fit (when designing my own stuff). It doesn't take much to offer just a little bit of resistance to prevent the magnet from lifting.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When printing multiple items at once (made some refrigerator magnets), I arranged them so the print head travel properly and not cross over the magnets of the other items&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Used a glue stick to glue them in. I was a bit surprised this worked, but it was just sticky enough to solve the problem.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of the best first prints I ever did was to create a cylinder, say 1&amp;quot; in diameter, with a hole in it (1/2&amp;quot; in diameter), then create the corresponding &amp;quot;pin&amp;quot; exactly 0.500&amp;quot;. Then I'd create multiple cylinders with holes of varying tolerances, say 0.490, 0.495, 0.500, 0.505, 0.510.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then I could compare the fit between the two items. Essentially if I needed to put a magnet into something, there's no way I can do a 0.500&amp;quot; hole. It's too tight. I've learned that with my printer, that if I oversize a hole by 0.01&amp;quot; &lt;em&gt;diameter&lt;/em&gt;, then it's a nice fit with a little bit of resistance. Well worth taking a few minutes to do this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="35664" LastActivityDate="2023-01-09T19:43:30.563" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20444" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20445" CreationDate="2023-01-09T22:18:13.170" Score="1" ViewCount="549" Body="&lt;p&gt;I haven't used my Creality Ender 3 S1 in a week. But I started it now. During &lt;strong&gt;auto leveling&lt;/strong&gt; and &lt;strong&gt;auto-home&lt;/strong&gt; the stepper motor for the build-plate (Y axis?) goes over the limit and a unhealthy sound is heard (the stepper pulley skips the belt).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All worked well last time I used the printer. I have tried to &amp;quot;Disable motors&amp;quot; and manually moved the plate, but it did not fell in &amp;quot;alignment&amp;quot;, so the noise will come e.g. with &amp;quot;auto-home&amp;quot; again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a way I can reset this or may something be broken?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did &amp;quot;Control -&amp;gt; Reset Configuration&amp;quot; and tried to use &amp;quot;auto-home&amp;quot; again, but the same problem occurred. I also tried to tighten the belt for the motor that moves the build-plate, but it did not help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It sounds like something is broken. In some way, it sounds like the stepper motor has the &amp;quot;wrong position&amp;quot;, if that can happen. Perhaps there are some &amp;quot;encoder&amp;quot; that is broken?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any suggestions on how to move on from here?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To reproduce my problem:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I disable the stepper motors.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Move the build-plate as close to the motor as possible.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I do &amp;quot;Control -&amp;gt; Reset Configuration&amp;quot; to reset the printer.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I do &amp;quot;auto-home&amp;quot;. The end result of this is that the build-plate is centralized and the &amp;quot;level-pin&amp;quot; on the nozzle is in the center of the build plate.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When I do &amp;quot;auto-level&amp;quot; now, it eventually tries to move the build-plate too far away from the motor, so the pulley skips the belt and noise is heard.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Auto home&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When looking at this &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/vwIFw3IJ3cU?t=29&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;video of Creality Ender 3 S1 doing auto home&lt;/a&gt;, it &lt;strong&gt;moves the build-plate as close to the motor as possible&lt;/strong&gt;, before moving the build-plate to home. This does &lt;strong&gt;hot&lt;/strong&gt; happen on mine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Instead, if I first put the build-plate in the center, then start the &lt;strong&gt;auto home&lt;/strong&gt;. It never moves the build-plate as close to the motor as possible, it only moves the build-plate away and finally the motor pulley skips the belt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25983" LastEditorUserId="25983" LastEditDate="2023-01-09T23:08:10.950" LastActivityDate="2023-01-10T11:15:25.250" Title="Y-Stepper motor pulley skips the belt" Tags="|creality-ender-3|motor|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20445" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20444" CreationDate="2023-01-09T23:07:51.263" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;When a stepper keeps on spinning and skipping the belt, it usually indicates that there is something wrong with the end stop. If it is not pressed, the stepper will rotate the length of the bed usually making the pulley skip the belt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please check your Y-end stop, you find it in the image below left of the stepper (you see the cable of the endstop, just above where the sticker is being pulled off).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wlFpU.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wlFpU.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could try and press this switch the moment you auto home to see if it works. If it works, make sure the carriage hits the switch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;em&gt;updated question&lt;/em&gt; explains that the bed moves in &lt;strong&gt;opposite direction&lt;/strong&gt; when homing, if so, this hints to a defective end stop switch or cable (or unconnected). When the end stop is defective the firmware (when properly configured and proper switch state routing is used) the printer assumes the end stop is triggered and moves away from the end stop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2023-01-10T11:15:25.250" LastActivityDate="2023-01-10T11:15:25.250" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20446" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-01-10T13:49:36.100" Score="2" ViewCount="9548" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm a beginner, so my terminology may be off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I bought my first 3D printer a while back&#xA;It's the first &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.creality.com/products/creality-ender-3-s1-3d-printer?spm=..page_1967279.products_display_1.1&amp;amp;spm_prev=..index.header_1.1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Creality Ender 3 S1 series&lt;/a&gt; that came out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Question&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'll summarize my observations: Manual and auto bed leveling don't seem to catch all the inconstancies on the bed. The first layer is either too loose or too squished because of these differences. I can't seem to find any visible inconsistencies when using a ruler to check the bed at problematic points manually. I'm constantly adjusting my Z-offset to find the right height, but can't seem to find it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Problem 1: Manual and auto bed leveling&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm following the following steps:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tighten all springs&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Auto-home&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Move the Z-axis to 0&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Loosen springs to bring the table up and allow the springs to breathe&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use Z-offset to bring the nozzle to the table&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use a sheet of paper to feel a slight friction between the nozzle and the bed&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Move the nozzle to four corners (~ spring mount points)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Move between each corner until satisfied with friction&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Well, I don't really get to step eight, because I'm never happy with the friction.&#xA;As soon as I move to the next corner, the other corners deform to the point where there is no friction at all.&#xA;The springs are not too loose, so I don't think that's the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Problem 2: Build plate deformation&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I'm finally &lt;em&gt;kind&lt;/em&gt; of happy with the manual bed leveling, I return to auto-home.&#xA;To my surprise, the nozzle presses hard against the surface.&#xA;When I disable steppers, I notice the nozzle is still at the correct height as measured on the four corners.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is also a small spot on the plate (1x2 cm) where the nozzle seems to press into the plate as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Problem 3: auto bed leveling&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now I'm thinking to myself... hey! auto bed leveling to the rescue! Well of course not. The 1x2 cm square I'm talking about does not get picked up. And the PLA on most parts of my bed is either too high or too low.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Problem 4: Z-offset and adhesion&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, as I mentioned, it often prints too high or too loose. But I can't seem to find the right Z-offset at all. When I move it down too far, it squishes, and when I move it back up a bit, the previous PLA loosens and gets pulled off the table on the next past (or even immediately after the first pass)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Things I've done:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Contacted Creality, they're really good at google translate...&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;They sent me 1x motherboard, 1x print head, 1x print plate, 1x print bed&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;No real help... just going in circles and some vague instruction video's on their part&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Updated firmware to the latest version from &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.creality.com/pages/download-ender-3-s1?spm=..page_1934481.products_display_1.1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;21 October 2021&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bought a glass bed and installed it&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Adjusted all wheels on the X- and Z-axis&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Adjusted the belt tension&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cleaned and greased both T-rods&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Degreased the bed plate&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Printed with bed @ 60 ° and 64 °C&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Printed with nozzle @ 195 °, 200 °, 205 ° and 215 °C&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm sorry if this question is too broad. I've had this printer for a couple of months now, and tried a lot of things, but I've never been able to start a print and go for a coffee... it always fails.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Greenonline pointed out that this question should be split up into separate questions. But to my beliefs, all four problems mentioned below might be relevant to pinpoint one or two remedies for the issue I'm having with this printer. So my question should be this: Maybe someone with more experience can see a correlation between the problems I'm having.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Help a newbie out, please :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36814" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2023-01-10T16:16:53.650" LastActivityDate="2023-03-01T22:04:10.467" Title="Ender 3 S1 general (beginners) problems" Tags="|creality-ender-3|bed-leveling|z-axis|adhesion|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20447" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20429" CreationDate="2023-01-10T17:45:07.350" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You want the magnets to fit snugly in the holes for them so they can't jump out. Making the hole undersized is not a good way to achieve this, because forcibly inserting the magnet can then break or deform the partial part.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Instead, I like adding one or more very thin splines, like the ones Lego bricks have to interface with and grip the studs of another piece, in a slightly oversized hole. These splines can wedge against the magnet and deflect without deforming the rest of the part.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2023-01-10T17:45:07.350" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20448" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20451" CreationDate="2023-01-10T23:00:54.433" Score="2" ViewCount="452" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know why and can understand the logic of changing E-steps for a new extruder- obviously it is related to the number of turns of the stepper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I don't understand is how the hotend could alter the E-steps so drastically.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example in Marlin the default e-steps for the stock MK8 hotend on a Creality printer is 93 (which is always too low IME) but then if you have a MicroSwiss it sets the E-steps to 137.6&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How does simply changing of the hotend (keeping the same nozzle diameter) require such a high increase in the E-steps? Can someone explain the physics of it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is what I was referring to:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XO9I0.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XO9I0.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Based on your advice I did some further searching and found that Microswiss makes an extruder as well. I initially assumed that it was referring to the hotend, since the most popular all-metal replacement hotend for the Ender line is the Microswiss, since it is a direct drop-in and requires no additional mount hardware.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it is the Microswiss extruder that they are referring to- I find that odd that they would include only that one since there are perhaps a dozen popular extruder options for the Ender line and they don't list firmware e-step options for any of them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14623" LastEditorUserId="14623" LastEditDate="2023-01-11T20:08:35.530" LastActivityDate="2023-01-11T20:08:35.530" Title="Why do we change E-steps based on the hotend?" Tags="|extruder|hotend|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20449" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20441" CreationDate="2023-01-11T02:34:01.810" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Thank you everyone for the suggestions.. I took it apart and reassembled it (my 12 year old originally built it, he’s usually good at these things) we found that the wires were reversed (at least according to him). It’s printing great now&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36798" LastActivityDate="2023-01-11T02:34:01.810" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20450" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20429" CreationDate="2023-01-11T10:56:49.587" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'll share some experience, I got while printing with magnets:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Firstly, check if the magnet can stick to something around the hotend, especially when using neodymium magnets. It may be necessary to replace the nozzle with a non-magnetic one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Apply a small amount of glue before placing the magnets. The magnet should be free of metal filings that may stick to the magnet, because the glue will not stick to the magnet properly. In this situation, the magnet will not stick to the print and may frivolously move around in the hole.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I used a small amount of hot glue on the bottom and top of the magnet, completely surrounding it in the hole. Hot glue should be used carefully as it can deform the plastic surrounding it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Check magnets pole orientation&lt;/strong&gt;. This one is important, if you want to use magnets in pairs, e.g. for parts that should connect and disconnect. Magnets should either attract or repel each other, depending on the application. Before placing the magnets, check that they are correctly positioned. You can also mark the poles first with a marker.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Make sure the magnet fits in the hole. For this purpose, you can make a quick test print and check if the magnet fits correctly into the hole. This will save potential drilling in the printout and other unwanted problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27865" LastEditorUserId="27865" LastEditDate="2023-01-11T17:52:08.493" LastActivityDate="2023-01-11T17:52:08.493" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20451" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20448" CreationDate="2023-01-11T12:56:48.093" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Actually we don't.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Under the assumption that the same extruder is used, the hot end doesn't matter. The question is unclear about the reuse of the same extruder. If there are different hot ends that have the extruder incorporated into the hot end design, the gearing solution used for these different extruders explain why the E-steps per mm are different. But, if the same (Bowden) extruder is used, you don't need to change the E-steps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To explain, the E-steps per mm is a property that belongs to the extruder, not the hot end. The E-steps per mm expresses how many steps need to be send to the extruder stepper to extrude a mm of filament. This filament is pushed while it is 1.75 mm or 2.85 mm. For this reason the nozzle diameter doesn't have a part in the equation either; the slicer will calculate the amount of length to extrude a volume is needed, the firmware recalculates this extrusion length (or volume if the filament area is taken into account) and expresses this with the E-steps per mm into an amount of steps for the stepper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/6484/&quot;&gt;calibrate your extruder&lt;/a&gt; by disconnecting the hot end or unmounting the nozzle (and telling the firmware to extrude at low temperature using G-code &lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#M302:_Allow_cold_extrudes&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;M302&lt;/a&gt;; you just need to make sure when 100 mm extrusion is requested, 100 mm is spit out. Any deviations from that can be fixed with the extrusion multiplier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the early days, when extruders didn't use dual gear filament gear solutions (which many these days do now), the filament was pushed by a single gear and used a counter bearing that pressed onto the filament with a spring like mechanism. What frequently happened with the cheaper extruder solutions is that  friction in the path up to the nozzle caused some slip, so it may look like more steps per mm were needed, but in fact this was just an extruder issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also beware of soft filament and pressure on the filament. See e.g. the following image of 2 different (blue and red) filament types or pressures on the filament sketched in the same image:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xwySf.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xwySf.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This image shows 2 types of filament or pressures on the filament. You see that the softer filament (red) or more pressed on (resulting in the gear teeth digging deeper into the filament), has an effective radius of R2 while the harder (blue) or less pressed on has an effective diameter of R1. R2 is smaller than R1, so for the same amount of steps per mm less filament is extruded (if the gear makes one turn, the extrusion difference is &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$ E_{diff}= 2\times\pi\times(R_1-R_2)$&lt;/span&gt;. Such effects should preferably be adjusted with the extrusion modifier in the slicer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2023-01-11T12:56:48.093" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20453" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3514" CreationDate="2023-01-11T18:43:01.553" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It also can simply be the PLA.  I have had PLA that runs thick no matter what setting I use.  I know it's the PLA because when I replace it then it goes back to normal.  I have tried temp ranges from 200-220 °C; all with the same results.  I even dried the PLA for 9 hours and still did it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sometimes the PLA just sucks aka a bad batch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36828" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2023-01-11T20:55:35.027" LastActivityDate="2023-01-11T20:55:35.027" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20454" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14783" CreationDate="2023-01-12T03:46:56.517" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Spraying Windex (the original formula blue w/ammonia -  not the multisurface, and not the vinegar based) on the build plate and allowing it to dry. I still print PETG on a heated bed, and prints come right off (textured) PEI plate when cooled. Even the skirt lifts right off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36831" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2023-01-20T22:39:57.143" LastActivityDate="2023-01-20T22:39:57.143" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20455" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-01-13T04:53:24.473" Score="0" ViewCount="535" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm seriously considering purchasing an Ender 3 Max Neo, but I'm unsure if I'll be able to fit it on my desk (i.e. I'm not sure if my desk is deep enough)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The specs report the machine dimensions as being 516 mm x 582 mm x 590 mm.  When I look at pictures of the unit it appears the rod for the Y rail protrudes past the front of the main unit, so I'm hoping I can get away with a table that is less than 582 mm deep.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know how deep a table I will need to support this unit, assuming the table is hard up against a wall?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6331" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2023-01-13T05:23:43.957" LastActivityDate="2024-02-08T15:05:15.763" Title="Ender 3 Max Neo Table Size" Tags="|creality-ender-3|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20456" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19607" CreationDate="2023-01-13T08:14:11.470" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Do you have the option to edit the source code or is recompilation not an option for you? I'd just edit the &lt;code&gt;M118&lt;/code&gt; function to print your variable when a specific text is given. You could have it print different variables per text that is supplied.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A more fancy way would be to copy and alter the &lt;code&gt;M118&lt;/code&gt; to an unused function (above 1000 seems unused) to match your needs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4708" LastEditorUserId="4708" LastEditDate="2023-01-16T10:55:11.453" LastActivityDate="2023-01-16T10:55:11.453" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20459" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20467" CreationDate="2023-01-14T11:50:38.833" Score="2" ViewCount="1038" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am trying to print an object with this cross section (the full object is just this mirrored):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/r1cDx.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Object&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/r1cDx.png&quot; alt=&quot;Object&quot; title=&quot;Object&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem is that big overhang layer. Cura slices it like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/52SrT.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Bad slice&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/52SrT.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Bad slice&quot; title=&quot;Bad slice&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is obviously going to fail. Is there any way to make Cura slice it in a spiral inwards from the outside, something like this (excuse the terrible diagram):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gLUbJ.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Good slice&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gLUbJ.png&quot; alt=&quot;Good slice&quot; title=&quot;Good slice&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36857" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2023-01-14T11:55:36.210" LastActivityDate="2023-01-30T22:05:21.363" Title="Print overhangs from the edges in" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|slicing|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20460" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20459" CreationDate="2023-01-14T12:07:56.747" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Angus of Maker's Muse has a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RPijCjz9G1w&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;video&lt;/a&gt; which may be of value. He suggests to create additional components to the model that become supports. I've used this method with great results. The specific model I created contained counterbores that could not be inverted and would have required supports and also would have become a mess to remove.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nrKN6.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nrKN6.png&quot; alt=&quot;cylindrical support&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The black lines represent a pair of cylinders of nearly matching diameters. The larger cylinder should be the same diameter and the second cut plus one or two nozzle widths, to allow overlap. This creates a bridging circumstance of relatively small dimensions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This support cylinder could be hollow, but the slicer will have to bridge the top of it in order to create the center cylinder support. One could create a solid cylinder with a cone removed, allowing the print to build a non-supported taper to the top, but it would be easier to create a pair of nested cylinders, both of which could be hollow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As before, the center cylinder should be the same diameter as the top most cut, plus the nozzle width times to create the bridging feature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dEK9h.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dEK9h.png&quot; alt=&quot;two nested cylinders&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastActivityDate="2023-01-14T12:07:56.747" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20461" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20455" CreationDate="2023-01-14T12:55:36.257" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is hard to find some measurements on the Ender 3 Max Neo to help you out, but, with the help of question &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6394/how-to-calculate-linear-y-rod-length-for-a-larger-replacement-bed&quot;&gt;How to calculate linear Y rod length for a larger replacement bed?&lt;/a&gt; and some &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p82TT4tNsb4&amp;amp;t=5s&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;videos on the Ender 3 Max Neo&lt;/a&gt; we should be able to come up with the space needed in the back and front.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Y-axis carriage has 6 V-slot rollers running on a 4040 aluminum extrusion profile:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VFa3Y.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VFa3Y.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you know the pitch between the rollers (you need the distance between the first and the last roller) and the diameter of the wheels, you will be able to calculate the overhang of heated bed. Since I have no access to this printer I cannot measure this, but we can make some engineering &amp;quot;guestimations&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gc3hO.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gc3hO.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the image above you can deduce that about one third of the bed &amp;quot;overhangs&amp;quot; (beware of the perspective!).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qwGzS.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qwGzS.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Similarly, you can calculate the length of the Y-axis tensioner to be about 55 mm extending in front of the 4040 extrusion; this implies the bed extends about 80 mm in front of the tensioner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Hatrj.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Hatrj.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The back has a NEMA 17 stepper of 42 mm, so an overhang of 90 mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This implies that the table should at least be 582 mm + 80 mm + 90 mm = 752 mm deep to fit the bed within the table dimension. At the back you need some space for the bed to reach the home position (when the table has a wall behind it), but you can have the printer extending the bed at the front over the table.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2023-01-14T12:55:36.257" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20463" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20464" CreationDate="2023-01-16T15:25:07.870" Score="2" ViewCount="239" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have created my own tool changer for my 3D Printer but I'm having an issue with the Z-offset for each head.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Firmware:&lt;/strong&gt; Marlin 2.1&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Slicer:&lt;/strong&gt; Cura&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have used the offset wizard to get the Z-offset of each head from the bed and then I tried to use the following G-code (&lt;code&gt;M851 Z-4.3&lt;/code&gt;) in the Extruder Start G-Code and I have done this for each head, I can see it has changed on the screen in the configuration menu but it looks like it has had no effect as the print has already started.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the best way for me to set each offset for all my extruders?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36882" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2023-01-16T17:20:00.263" LastActivityDate="2023-01-16T17:42:42.247" Title="Z-Offset Multiple Heads on Tool Change" Tags="|marlin|ultimaker-cura|extruder|z-probe|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20464" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20463" CreationDate="2023-01-16T17:42:42.247" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is a specific code to set the offset between the various tools. This G-code is called &lt;a href=&quot;https://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M218.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;code&gt;M218&lt;/code&gt; - Set Hotend Offset&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VvHmG.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VvHmG.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2023-01-16T17:42:42.247" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20465" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18833" CreationDate="2023-01-16T19:22:22.687" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Thats not good.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;I've been having the same issues and my Photon Mono X is only 6 prints in from being new.&#xA;I was chalking it up to the newb way I was cleaning my FEP and the scratches that are letting light spread everywhere. I am changing my FEP today to see if that fixes the issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36885" LastActivityDate="2023-01-16T19:22:22.687" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20466" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20477" CreationDate="2023-01-17T08:25:03.470" Score="2" ViewCount="1622" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have recently purchased an Anycubic Kobra, and the first two prints worked out fine. On the third print, the Y-axis belt snapped, so I contacted Anycubic support and they gave me a replacement one. I did a few test owl prints, but there was major Y-axis shifting on the prints.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/A3i4k.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Images of two failed owl prints&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/A3i4k.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Images of two failed owl prints&quot; title=&quot;Images of two failed owl prints&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After I replaced the belt, I made sure that they were as tight as possible, but there was some slack, but I couldn't tighten them further. There is only shifting in the Y-axis, but it mostly only shifts in one direction (towards front).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What other reasons would cause a Y-axis shift like this? Is this due to incorrect belt replacement, as there was no shifting prior to the belt snap?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36890" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2023-01-20T10:27:37.897" LastActivityDate="2023-01-20T10:27:37.897" Title="Major Y-axis skipping (Anycubic Kobra)" Tags="|troubleshooting|layer-shifting|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20467" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20459" CreationDate="2023-01-17T10:07:08.880" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm pretty new to 3D printing but I was fairly sure I could get this to print nicely without supports and I did it! First here are some things I tried:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I tried the manual supports suggested by fred_dot_u, unfortunately, it does not really work in this case. It seems like the bridge needs a reasonable width of support at each end to adhere to.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Uam0x.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Photo of a 3D printed model with the supports failing&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Uam0x.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Photo of a 3D printed model with the supports failing&quot; title=&quot;Photo of a 3D printed model with the supports failing&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol start=&quot;2&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I redesigned my model to not have 90° overhangs. Fortunately, in my case I can actually get away with 45° slops and also a 67° slope like this (this is upside down compared to the images in the question).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3oKl7.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;A sketch showing the model redesigned with 45-degree angles to minimize support usage&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3oKl7.png&quot; alt=&quot;A sketch showing the model redesigned with 45-degree angles to minimize support usage&quot; title=&quot;A sketch showing the model redesigned with 45-degree angles to minimize support usage&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately, this did not print at all well with the default Cura settings. It still insists on doing the &amp;quot;wall&amp;quot; rings first and those have no support.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/n5YEu.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Photo of the printed model with a slightly better surface but missing printed elements&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/n5YEu.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Photo of the printed model with a slightly better surface but missing printed elements&quot; title=&quot;Photo of the printed model with a slightly better surface but missing printed elements&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(The black dots are from wet and dry paper.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol start=&quot;3&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I managed to get it to print in the right order - spiraling inwards - by slicing with PrusaSlicer and just setting the wall width really high, like 5. It worked a bit better, but still 67° overhang was too much for my printer, and also I don't really want walls that thick.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/d0rjy.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Screenshot of PrusaSlicer's model preview showing the start of the layer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/d0rjy.png&quot; alt=&quot;Screenshot of PrusaSlicer's model preview showing the start of the layer&quot; title=&quot;Screenshot of PrusaSlicer's model preview showing the start of the layer&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/abFB4.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Screenshot of PrusaSlicer's model preview showing the end of the layer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/abFB4.png&quot; alt=&quot;Screenshot of PrusaSlicer's model preview showing the end of the layer&quot; title=&quot;Screenshot of PrusaSlicer's model preview showing the end of the layer&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/t0ZkU.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Photo of the model with better surfaces but still failing&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/t0ZkU.png&quot; alt=&quot;Photo of the model with better surfaces but still failing&quot; title=&quot;Photo of the model with better surfaces but still failing&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol start=&quot;4&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Finally I realised what I should do. Bridging seems to work well over long distances, as long as both ends are well supported. So all I need to do is manually add some &amp;quot;bridge supports&amp;quot; and convince Cura to print them as actual bridges. Here's my CAD (I've resorted to just a test piece rather than my actual model now):&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3UYWi.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Screenshot of a new design in CAD design with manually added bridge supports&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3UYWi.png&quot; alt=&quot;Screenshot of a new design in CAD design with manually added bridge supports&quot; title=&quot;Screenshot of a new design in CAD design with manually added bridge supports&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Essentially I added a 0.2 mm layer extrusion down everywhere except a square in the middle, and then a further 0.2 mm extrusion down in these purple areas:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cDz70.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Screenshot of the new design with bridge supports&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cDz70.png&quot; alt=&quot;Screenshot of the new design with bridge supports&quot; title=&quot;Screenshot of the new design with bridge supports&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then when you slice in Cura set &lt;strong&gt;Top/Bottom Line Directions&lt;/strong&gt; to &lt;strong&gt;[0, 90]&lt;/strong&gt; (or perhaps you could just rotate the square by 45°), and it will slice it like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eVgbU.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Screenshot of Cura's preview of the model's first layer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eVgbU.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Screenshot of Cura's preview of the model's first layer&quot; title=&quot;Screenshot of Cura's preview of the model's first layer&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fxX0g.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Screenshot of Cura's preview of the model's second layer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fxX0g.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Screenshot of Cura's preview of the model's second layer&quot; title=&quot;Screenshot of Cura's preview of the model's second layer&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And it prints perfectly!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LlDto.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Photo of the printed model properly printed and no failures&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LlDto.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Photo of the printed model properly printed and no failures&quot; title=&quot;Photo of the printed model properly printed and no failures&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ok, in the end, I think I might not do that because I realised I can redesign it to use 45° slopes and a big closed hole at the top... but I'm glad I proved that you &lt;em&gt;can&lt;/em&gt; do 90° overhangs with holes in them without supports.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36857" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2023-01-17T13:49:32.047" LastActivityDate="2023-01-17T13:49:32.047" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20468" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-01-17T11:04:28.740" Score="0" ViewCount="606" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 3D printer Ender 3 V2. I bought a BLTouch sensor for it and compiled my own Marlin firmware.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, my print run of the part is like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I heat up the table&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Starting table calibration&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;After the calibration is completed, I click save to the EEPROM.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I start printing by selecting a file.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At this point, all printing is fine, but I would like to reduce the number of steps. Selected the print file and left. The printer heats itself, calibrates itself and then starts printing.&#xA;I tried turning on &lt;code&gt;RESTORE_LEVELING_AFTER_G28&lt;/code&gt; and &lt;code&gt;ENABLE_LEVELING_AFTER_G28&lt;/code&gt; separately in the firmware. The compiler won't let me turn them on together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And to use such a G-code:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;G92 E0 ; Reset Extruder&#xA;G28 ; Home all axes&#xA;G29 ; Bed Leveling&#xA;G28 ; Home all axes&#xA;M420 S1 : Load Saved Mesh&#xA;G1 Z2.0 F3000 ; Move Z Axis up a little to prevent scratching of Heat Bed&#xA;G1 X0.1 Y20 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move to start position&#xA;G1 X0.1 Y200.0 Z0.3 F1500.0 E15 ; Draw the first line&#xA;G1 X0.4 Y200.0 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move to side a little&#xA;G1 X0.4 Y20 Z0.3 F1500.0 E30 ; Draw the second line&#xA;G92 E0 ; Reset Extruder&#xA;G1 Z2.0 F3000 ; Move Z Axis up a little to prevent scratching of Heat Bed&#xA;G1 X5 Y20 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move over to prevent blob squish&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The printer simply ignores the &lt;code&gt;G29&lt;/code&gt; command and &lt;strong&gt;starts printing without calibration&lt;/strong&gt;. What can be the problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36892" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2023-01-18T07:08:53.810" LastActivityDate="2023-01-18T07:08:53.810" Title="Printer ignores G29 command" Tags="|creality-ender-3|marlin|bed-leveling|firmware|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20469" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-01-17T14:58:30.103" Score="1" ViewCount="307" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a CR-10max that is about 3 years old and can no longer print due to hot end faults.  The hot end starts ramping up temperature but is unable to get past 150 °C, unless I turn off the hotend fan then it gets to 250 °C SP, but it is still very slow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The printer has two PSUs, one that serves the heated bed and the other that serves the mainboard, steppers, and hotend. The hotend PSU is rated for 3.2 A and outputs 24 V. When the hotend is trying to heat it still maintains 24 V, and I have even disconnected this power supply and connected a variable power supply set to 24 V and noted the problem still existed and printer was only pulling 1.5 A while printing. So, the PSU is not the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did not do any heater tuning prior to these failures. But I did change the tuning parameters to be very aggressive and no change in behavior.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am beginning to suspect there is a compromised relay or the wiring harness from the mainboard to the point where the heater cartridge is plugged in is compromised. Not sure what to try at this point...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27750" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2023-01-17T16:46:14.447" LastActivityDate="2023-01-17T16:46:14.447" Title="Printer hotend heating slowly and faulting" Tags="|hotend|creality-cr-10|heat-management|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20470" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20556" CreationDate="2023-01-18T00:21:41.403" Score="1" ViewCount="175" Body="&lt;p&gt;Suddenly, I can't seem to print anything on my Flashforge Adventurer 4. No matter what I try, the raft looks like this. I'm re-calibrated and tried all kinds of different heat/speed settings. What am I doing wrong?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/APLfW.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/APLfW.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36901" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2023-01-18T09:30:21.270" LastActivityDate="2023-02-09T09:22:16.750" Title="raft balling up" Tags="|print-quality|rafts|flashforge-adventurer-4|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20472" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20473" CreationDate="2023-01-18T10:01:15.700" Score="3" ViewCount="1152" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm using PrusaSlicer 2.5.0 and printing the sliced G-code on a Creality CR-6 SE via a USB-connected OctoPrint/OctoPi. As you can see, the slicer sets the temperature by G-code commands in two steps (final temperature is 205 °C). This seems strange to me, as the printer can go directly to the final temperature. Also, this screenshot shows the case where I'm switching filament, therefore I have to heat up the extruder and when I start printing, the hotend cools for some time, because the target temperature is way lower set by PrusaSlicer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a setting for configuring this in PrusaSlicer?&#xA;These are the first few lines in the G-code file:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;; generated by PrusaSlicer 2.5.0+win64 on 2023-01-18 at 12:15:56 UTC&#xA;&#xA;; &#xA;&#xA;; external perimeters extrusion width = 0.42mm&#xA;; perimeters extrusion width = 0.44mm&#xA;; infill extrusion width = 0.44mm&#xA;; solid infill extrusion width = 0.44mm&#xA;; top infill extrusion width = 0.40mm&#xA;; support material extrusion width = 0.36mm&#xA;; first layer extrusion width = 0.42mm&#xA;&#xA;M201 X500 Y500 Z100 E5000 ; sets maximum accelerations, mm/sec^2&#xA;M203 X500 Y500 Z10 E60 ; sets maximum feedrates, mm / sec&#xA;M204 P500 R1000 T500 ; sets acceleration (P, T) and retract acceleration (R), mm/sec^2&#xA;M205 X8.00 Y8.00 Z0.40 E5.00 ; sets the jerk limits, mm/sec&#xA;M205 S0 T0 ; sets the minimum extruding and travel feed rate, mm/sec&#xA;M107&#xA;;TYPE:Custom&#xA;G90 ; use absolute coordinates&#xA;M83 ; extruder relative mode&#xA;M109 S180 ; set temporary nozzle temp to prevent oozing during homing&#xA;M190 S70 ; wait for bed temp to stabilize&#xA;M140 S70 ; set final bed temp&#xA;G28 ; home all axis&#xA;G1 Z50 F240&#xA;G1 X2.0 Y10 F3000&#xA;M104 S230 ; set final nozzle temp&#xA;M109 S230 ; wait for nozzle temp to stabilize&#xA;G1 Z0.28 F240&#xA;G92 E0&#xA;G1 X2.0 Y140 E10 F1500 ; prime the nozzle&#xA;G1 X2.3 Y140 F5000&#xA;G92 E0&#xA;G1 X2.3 Y10 E10 F1200 ; prime the nozzle&#xA;G92 E0&#xA;G21 ; set units to millimeters&#xA;G90 ; use absolute coordinates&#xA;M83 ; use relative distances for extrusion&#xA;; Filament gcode&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36886" LastEditorUserId="36886" LastEditDate="2023-01-18T22:49:55.733" LastActivityDate="2023-01-18T22:49:55.733" Title="Why does Prusaslicer set the final temperature in two steps?" Tags="|octoprint|prusaslicer|creality-cr-6|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20473" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20472" CreationDate="2023-01-18T13:40:09.073" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since the bed usually takes longer to heat than the nozzle, the nozzle is in a pre-warmup stage so that it doesn't ooze filament waiting for the bed while homing and/or finding the Z limit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once the bed is warmed up and the Z limit is reached the nozzle heats up to the final temperature and the print starts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you go to the &lt;strong&gt;Printer Settings&lt;/strong&gt; tab of Prusaslicer and click on &lt;strong&gt;Custom G-Code&lt;/strong&gt;, you'll see the initial temp in the &lt;strong&gt;Start G-Code&lt;/strong&gt; section. Mine even says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;M104 S150 ; set temporary nozzle temp to prevent oozing during homing&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A temperature of 150 °C is low enough that the filament doesn't melt but close enough to the final temperature so that you're not waiting for a full heat cycle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="35664" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2023-01-18T14:24:36.160" LastActivityDate="2023-01-18T14:24:36.160" CommentCount="14" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20474" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-01-19T04:35:07.167" Score="3" ViewCount="134" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently had some filament get stuck in the Bowden tube so much so that I had to remove it from the stock Creality heatsink on my Ender 3 v2. As I was taking the tube out of the heatsink I noticed some residue inside:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MRhQR.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Photo of the Creality stock heatsink with some type of residue inside&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MRhQR.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Photo of the Creality stock heatsink with some type of residue inside&quot; title=&quot;Photo of the Creality stock heatsink with some type of residue inside&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do I have to replace my heatsink or can it be cleaned out? What is this residue? Will this cause problems in the future?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23193" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2023-01-19T14:16:08.937" LastActivityDate="2023-01-22T14:36:39.017" Title="Residue inside of heatsink" Tags="|nozzle|maintenance|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20475" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20474" CreationDate="2023-01-19T10:14:06.137" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure what this gunk is, but it seems to be standard in Creality hotends and is presumably something they used to hold the threads or improve thermal properties or something. In any case it does not seem important. You do not need to replace your heat sink.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the gunk is making it hard to re-insert the bowden tube and threaded coupler, or if it looks like you're going to push it down where it would get in the interface between the tube and the nozzle and cause a clog (this seems likely from your pic), you can clean it out with a Q-tip and some IPA. Otherwise, in my experience it's fine to ignore it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2023-01-19T10:14:06.137" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20477" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20466" CreationDate="2023-01-20T06:15:09.743" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found a solution to this layer shifting. Even though the belt was too loose, I managed to use a rubber band to tighten the belt slightly. Now to prints go off without a hitch. Thanks for your help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36890" LastActivityDate="2023-01-20T06:15:09.743" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20478" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-01-20T11:50:43.620" Score="0" ViewCount="241" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm working on a (currently only conceptual) design for a Peltier-cooled sample holder, and the cold side will need some insulation.  It's likely to be a rather complex shape, so 3D printing it looks like a good plan.  I can get parts made on a Ultimaker (not sure which model at the moment), normally in PLA.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can look up the bulk thermal conductivity of PLA (it seems to be &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/q/11043/36937&quot;&gt;the best of the typical filaments already&lt;/a&gt;.  I can find high-TC filaments.  What I can't find is how to design an insulating part.  In particular, while a reduced fill will reduce the TC, and the actual percentage might allow a decent approximation to the thermal conductivity in an isotropic structure, it's highly unlikely I'll have an isotropic structure.  This means I don't know how well I can approximate the final TC as a percentage of the bulk  The fill patterns I've seen (as a part designer, not a printer operator) would likely end up like cells running in the direction I want to avoid heat flow (perpendicular to the Peltier's heat-spreader plates).  Knowing the TC, I could calculate the heat flow -&#xA;I have some  background in thermal physics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any kind of established best practice for designing thermally insulating parts? Any way to approximate the thermal conductivity?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36937" LastActivityDate="2023-01-20T20:51:51.033" Title="Targetting low thermal conducitivity with PLA" Tags="|pla|infill|heat|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20479" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19920" CreationDate="2023-01-20T12:29:49.203" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;this happens when you print and the resin does not adhere well to the lift platform. This way the print stays at the bottom.&#xA;The first layer builds up between the FEP sheet (bottom of vat) and the build platform. If you are lucky, the connection to the build pltform is stronger than the FEP sheet. A couple of things affect the adhesion to both surfaces:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;FEP sheet tension (don't tension too tight, not too loose)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;FEP sheet cleanliness (lightly coat with silicon grease)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;build platform cleanliness (clean with alcohol)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;build platform height (should be exactly on the bottom of vat at home position)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;build platform alignment (should be exactly flat compared to bottom of vat)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;lift speed (lifting too fast with a big print can make the print come loose from the bed)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;cure time (curing the first layers too short can make the adhesion worse)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4708" LastActivityDate="2023-01-20T12:29:49.203" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20480" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20482" CreationDate="2023-01-20T18:12:11.107" Score="1" ViewCount="508" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm thinking about trying to use a 12 V power supply for the board and 24 V for the hotend and heatbed triggered by some MOSFETs modules like this &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256803225973421.html?srcSns=com.google.android.apps.dynamite&amp;amp;spreadType=socialShare&amp;amp;bizType=ProductDetail&amp;amp;social_params=60255381236&amp;amp;aff_fcid=0001f506721b4528aef462557e91191b-1674238900863-05289-_EwsNqQ5&amp;amp;tt=MG&amp;amp;aff_fsk=_EwsNqQ5&amp;amp;aff_platform=default&amp;amp;sk=_EwsNqQ5&amp;amp;aff_trace_key=0001f506721b4528aef462557e91191b-1674238900863-05289-_EwsNqQ5&amp;amp;shareId=60255381236&amp;amp;businessType=ProductDetail&amp;amp;platform=AE&amp;amp;terminal_id=435528944a8944998033d14a64731289&amp;amp;afSmartRedirect=y&amp;amp;gatewayAdapt=glo2usa4itemAdapt&amp;amp;_randl_shipto=US&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Power Expansion Board Heating Controller MOSFET High Current Load Module 25A 12V or 24V for 3D Printer Parts&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has something like this worked for anyone? I'm wondering if for triggering 24 V voltage the module needs also 24 V input or 12 V will do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maybe I'll start from RAMPS just to kick off, in the long run I thought about Monster8 (I wanted to check out 3-4 motors autolevelling someday) on 12 V but I have also a spare 24 V PSU but just 300W, so I wanted to try a double PSU build and 24 V only for 310x310 240-260W heated bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: I intend using a heated bed designed for 24 V.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36941" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2023-02-06T14:55:46.363" LastActivityDate="2023-02-06T14:55:46.363" Title="Controlling MOSFET with 12 V from board to heat bed with 24 V PSU" Tags="|heated-bed|mosfet|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20481" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20478" CreationDate="2023-01-20T18:31:45.220" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Coincidently, I am considering the same issue; I'm trying to design a 3D-printed Peltier refrigerator to maintain the &amp;quot;cold-chain&amp;quot; for drug distribution in low-resource settings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't have the answers, but I did just come across this useful poster presentation on the same topic: &lt;a href=&quot;https://engineering.purdue.edu/MTEC/news/undergraduate-researchers-show-off-research-skills-in-poster-shows/MTEC_Poster_Yu%20Han.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Influence of 3D infill pattern on thermal transport&lt;/a&gt;, by Yu Han&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2YHKd.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Influence of 3D infill pattern on thermal transport&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2YHKd.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Influence of 3D infill pattern on thermal transport&quot; title=&quot;Influence of 3D infill pattern on thermal transport&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It may provide some help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36942" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2023-01-20T20:51:51.033" LastActivityDate="2023-01-20T20:51:51.033" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20482" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20480" CreationDate="2023-01-20T20:40:51.587" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can certainly use a 24 V PSU for the heatbed, controlled from a 12 V board (i.e. RAMPS) - &lt;em&gt;assuming that the heatbed is either designed for 24 V or is of a type that accepts dual supply voltage (be sure to use the correct input)&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You have three choices:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Modify the RAMPS board, using the built in MOSFET&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use an external relay&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use an external MOSFET (as you suggest)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Modifying the RAMPS&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Assuming that you are actually using a RAMPS board&lt;/em&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From &lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/wiki/RAMPS_24v&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;RepRapWiki - RAMPS 24V&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Modifying for 24v heated bed&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You have to replace the 11 amp polyfuse, MF-R1100, with something else. This device is only rated for 16v. It will burn out and catch fire on 24volts. Most simply replace the polyfuse with a thick wire. Then wire in a 24v fuse with a inline fuse holder on the heated bed cables. Wire up 24 volt supply to the top two 11amp power sockets and its completed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also use an external MOSFET with a separate 24v supply without any changes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thus, you can use 24 V, for just the heatbed, on a standard RAMPS board directly. However to do so, you need to modify the board and replace the fuse, as the standard fuse is only rated for 16 V &lt;em&gt;and&lt;/em&gt; the current rating would be too high for a 24 V supply.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just swap out the 11 amp polyfuse, MF-R1100, and replace it with a more suitably rated fuse. Alternatively, just replace the MF-R1100 with a thick wire and use an additional inline fuse holder with a 12/24 V fuse, and reduce the current rating of the fuse by half, i.e. 5 A.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a 24 V heatbed will actually use less current than a 12 V heatbed, this is perfectly safe. In addition, the heatbed circuit on the RAMPS is isolated from the rest of the RAMPS control circuit, so there is no need to worry about using the two different voltages on the same board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;SSR&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, instead of a MOSFET, you might be better off using a relay, such as a &lt;em&gt;FOTEK SSR-100 DD&lt;/em&gt; (which is a solid state relay module). Using a relay will isolate the two circuits. Nevertheless, you need to be aware that some (a lot?) of these Fostek SSRs are relabelled - that is to say that a 5 A SSR has the label replaced with one that says 10 A of 15 A, and the unscrupulous reseller bumps up the price accordingly. So, maybe choose a different brand of relay.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;MOSFET&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Assuming that you do not have a RAMPS board&lt;/em&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wire up an external PCB with an appropriate MOSFET. For instance, you could just use the same MOSFET as the RAMPS board uses, which is one of these three (from &lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/wiki/RAMPS_1.4&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;RepRapWiki - RAMPS 1.4&lt;/a&gt; - &lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/wiki/RAMPS_1.4#Bill_of_Materials&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;BOM&lt;/a&gt;):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;STP55NF06L (MOSFET N-CH 60V 55A 18mΩ TO-220 @11A=+135*C )&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;IRLB8743PBF (MOSFET N-CH 30V 78A 3.2mΩ TO-220 @11A=+24*C)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;IRLB3034PBF (MOSFET N-CH 40V 195A 1.7mΩ TO-220 @11A=+13*C)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From &lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?219,522120,522251#msg-522251&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Re: best ramps 1.4 headbed mosfet upgrade&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;IRLB8743pbf and IRLB3034pbf are good choices. IRF3205 and P55NF06 are bad choices, because they don't have guaranteed performance at 4.5V gate drive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See also &lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?219,835614&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;RAMPS 1.4 and external mosfets&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4762" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2023-01-22T08:04:31.570" LastActivityDate="2023-01-22T08:04:31.570" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20483" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20550" CreationDate="2023-01-20T22:26:56.053" Score="0" ViewCount="432" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm building a product which requires a dowel pin inserted into a plastic piece. I'm planning to 3D print the plastic piece with nylon (must be nylon for biocompatibility), but the tolerances won't be sufficient to ensure a consistent press-fit for the pin. To get around this, I plan to undersize the hole, and then ream it out with a reamer on the drill press. There will be 1000 pieces on this run. Any flaws you can see with this design?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36944" LastEditorUserId="36944" LastEditDate="2023-02-06T13:11:42.313" LastActivityDate="2023-02-06T13:11:42.313" Title="Inserting steel dowel pin into hole with interference fit" Tags="|3d-design|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20484" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-01-21T21:56:30.633" Score="2" ViewCount="1035" Body="&lt;p&gt;I haven't started on the hardware for this project yet as I'm still waiting for delivery, but I would just like to sense-check my current software mods and hardware plans to see if I'm along the right lines. I am going to take the BIGTREETECH SKR mini E3 V3.0 board and add a 5th stepper driver to get independent control of the Z axes on my printer. Having studied the &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/bigtreetech/BIGTREETECH-SKR-mini-E3/blob/master/hardware/BTT%20SKR%20MINI%20E3%20V3.0/Hardware/BTT%20E3%20SKR%20MINI%20V3.0_PIN.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;pins&lt;/a&gt; on the board and the &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/bigtreetech/BIGTREETECH-SKR-mini-E3/blob/master/hardware/BTT%20SKR%20MINI%20E3%20V3.0/Hardware/BTT%20E3%20SKR%20MINI%20V3.0_SCH.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;schematics&lt;/a&gt; of the various ICs, my plan is to connect the TMC2209 to some spare pins on the board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using the BIGTREETECH PCB version of the driver:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nuoPq.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Diagram of the BIGTREETECH SKR mini E3 PCB&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nuoPq.png&quot; alt=&quot;Diagram of the BIGTREETECH SKR mini E3 PCB&quot; title=&quot;Diagram of the BIGTREETECH SKR mini E3 PCB&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I plan to attach the enable pin to PD0 on the SKR, MS1, and MS2 to ground, UART Tx/Rx to the first PDN as detailed in the &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/bigtreetech/BIGTREETECH-TMC2209-V1.2/blob/master/manual/TMC2209-V1.2-manual.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;manual&lt;/a&gt;, VM to the power supply, GND to the power supply, A2/A1/B1/B2 to the motor, VDD to a 3.3V pin from the SPI 1 block of pins on the SKR, and GND to ground.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think this makes sense as the driver runs in UART mode - it is set to 0x0 by tying MS1 and MS2 to ground - and my present understanding is that in UART mode the CLK, STP, and DIR pins are not needed. I am not 100% on that point so I could be wrong there. If I do need to add it then STP and DIR are easy, CLK would be a bit more challenging but I believe UART does not require a clock signal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as software changes are concerned, the main additions are in &lt;code&gt;pins.h&lt;/code&gt; of Marlin 2.1.x where I have added:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#define Z2_ENABLE_PIN                       PD0  &#xA;#define Z2_STEP_PIN                         PD2 // not needed in uart mode?  &#xA;#define Z2_DIR_PIN                          PD3 // not needed in uart mode? &#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And then to hijack some hardware serial pins:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#define X_HARDWARE_SERIAL  MSerial4 // original code&#xA;#define Y_HARDWARE_SERIAL  MSerial4 // original code&#xA;#define Z_HARDWARE_SERIAL  MSerial4 // original code&#xA;#define Z2_HARDWARE_SERIAL MSerial1 // my addition&#xA;#define E0_HARDWARE_SERIAL MSerial4 // original code&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is where I have the most doubt, I'm assuming that &lt;code&gt;MSerial1&lt;/code&gt; corresponds to the Rx1 and Tx1 pins in the EXP1 block on the board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In summary, my main questions are: do I need the CLK, STP, and DIR pins (maybe just STP and DIR?), and does using &lt;code&gt;MSerial1&lt;/code&gt; correspond to the Rx1 and Tx1 pins?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36951" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2023-01-21T22:14:45.343" LastActivityDate="2023-04-12T09:02:50.370" Title="Adding a TMC2209 driver to BIGTREETECH SKR mini E3 V3.0 control board using Marlin" Tags="|marlin|stepper-driver|bigtreetech|serial-connection|tmc2209|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20486" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20489" CreationDate="2023-01-22T00:51:47.217" Score="1" ViewCount="554" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm experiencing an issue with the auto homing where the Z-axis will ignore the endstop when I use the auto home button in Pronterface. Strangely, homing the axes individually I don't seem to have any issues, but when I use &lt;code&gt;G28&lt;/code&gt; or home the axes sequentially I observe the Z-axis motors to continue moving the gantry down despite definitely having hit the Z-endstop. Below is a link to a video demonstrating this issue:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/seLivJzvh0E?start=0&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Triggering the Z-endstop manually (with my finger) the &lt;code&gt;M119&lt;/code&gt; command shows &amp;quot;TRIGGERED&amp;quot;. I tested, starting from a high Z position and descending towards the endstop, manually triggering the endstop (with my finger) and I observed the Z-axis motors stop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I used Marlin Bugfix 2.0.9.3.x preconfigured release from BTT's GitHub corresponding to this board (BTT SKR 3 EZ), only changing things like motor direction and build area so as to correspond to the printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am able to copy/paste the &lt;code&gt;configuration.h&lt;/code&gt; file if that will help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36953" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2023-01-22T02:10:44.243" LastActivityDate="2023-01-22T17:38:13.493" Title="Auto Homing issue (Z-axis ignores endstop but individually homing each axis there is no problem)" Tags="|marlin|homing|endstop|bug|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20487" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20474" CreationDate="2023-01-22T14:08:14.063" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;That looks burned and rough.  It is likely to prevent the bowden tube from properly seating, and if that falls into the nozzle, it could clog it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That may be plastic that leaked between the hot end and the bowden tube and degraded under heat over time.  When my printer was new, I took apart the hot end and didn't find any residue like this, but when I changed my nozzle recently, I did.  I think this is buildup over time of either degraded plastic or residue that was on the plastic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would recommend removing the nozzle and using a q-tip or a skewer to scrape that out and push it out of the hot end.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also check the end of your bowden tube and make sure it isn't also charred or contaminated with residue.  Clean it and make sure that the end is flat so that it can seat fully into the hot end with no gaps.  If the tip looks damaged, you can insert it into a loose coupler and use a sharp blade to cut the tip even with the end of the coupler.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28397" LastEditorUserId="28397" LastEditDate="2023-01-22T14:36:39.017" LastActivityDate="2023-01-22T14:36:39.017" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20488" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-01-22T16:19:28.703" Score="2" ViewCount="138" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/k3bRZ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Obvious problems on benchy&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/k3bRZ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Obvious problems on benchy&quot; title=&quot;Obvious problems on benchy&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What could be going wrong here? I have never seen this sort of printing problem before or I am just not recognizing it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It most definately is coming from the filament because I have tried switching the filament and other filament prints fine - everything else staying the same. The filament that is causing this printed fine for about 70% of the spool and then started to print like you can see here in the ships body and a bit on the top.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PS. I had the idea that this might be a feeding problem and investigated the feed mechanism. There is definately a problem as I found a horrible filament dust buildup there. This is probably causing problems with the filament feed which is why sometimes there is just not as much as there should be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this dust buildup a fault of the filament? I just unpacked the spool two days ago (SUNLU). I printed two other spools of SUNLU filament without any problems - but they were from a different shipment. The one causing the problem came with a cardboard spool, not the usual plastic one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/txNST.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Gears showing filament debris&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/txNST.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Gears showing filament debris&quot; title=&quot;Gears showing filament debris&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/94uIM.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Close up of chewed filament&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/94uIM.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Close up of chewed filament&quot; title=&quot;Close up of chewed filament&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36958" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2023-01-22T20:54:11.373" LastActivityDate="2023-01-22T20:54:11.373" Title="Filament Problem: Benchy example" Tags="|pla|extruder|filament|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20489" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20486" CreationDate="2023-01-22T17:34:38.737" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;For anyone looking I figured out what the issue was. Turns out that I had miswired the JST connectors coming from the switch to the board, having not double-checked and proceeding to connect wires to the board from the switch based on the color of the wires and my assumptions (black to ground, red to VCC, other color to signal). Actually for my switches black was VCC, red was signal, and the other color was ground. Thankfully it seems the board isn't worse for wear despite my errors in wiring previously, and now the printer is functional.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36953" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2023-01-22T17:38:13.493" LastActivityDate="2023-01-22T17:38:13.493" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20490" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18399" CreationDate="2023-01-23T09:55:50.567" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I got solved the most problems with my Prusa Mini after a better extruder from Bondtech (Extruder for Prusa Mini or Mini+). Because it has double gear it has enough power to press the filament through the nozzle. Another problem was the filament I ordered. It always got stuck in the Bowden tube because it got too thick. For just one dollar more I got filament that is much more accurate in the diameter and so it never got stuck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36967" LastEditorUserId="36967" LastEditDate="2023-01-24T06:09:11.897" LastActivityDate="2023-01-24T06:09:11.897" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20491" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-01-23T13:14:32.630" Score="0" ViewCount="209" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am trying to print some objects using an Ultimaker 2+ Connect that is available at my work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It has a slicer with a web interface and that works fine, but it has some limitations that I am trying to work around.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I downloaded Ultimaker Cura and tried to use that instead. Unfortunately the files that it generates don't work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The printer loads it and starts printing as expected, but no filament is extruded. Do any of you have a hint as to what is going wrong?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://pastebin.com/sw0TdPj4&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Working G-code&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://pastebin.com/9MKqVrX0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Non-working G-code (Cura)&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36970" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2023-01-23T14:07:39.377" LastActivityDate="2023-01-23T14:07:39.377" Title="No filament extrusion using G-code from Ultimaker Cura" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|g-code|ultimaker-2|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20492" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18399" CreationDate="2023-01-24T10:37:01.400" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;More expensive printers from reputable brands generally go hand in hand with better quality, but, there are exceptions. Some more expensive printers are just more expensive and do not offer a higher quality. I'm not going into the details of which brands these are.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have experience with cheap, self-built and high-end printers and experience that even the higher end machines can have problems. Although the high-end printers generally have better engineered parts and better quality parts (e.g. like branded bearings, good steel, better hot ends) it is unlikely you run into failures more often, but failures do happen. E.g. recently I had a fine thread of filament wedged into the hot end cooling fan of an Ultimaker to fail printing PLA as the hot end becomes too hot and waisted a core on a PETG print that wrapped around the core.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One thing is for sure, when you do run into problems on expensive printers, it is generally also more expensive to fix it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2023-01-26T09:46:59.317" LastActivityDate="2023-01-26T09:46:59.317" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20494" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16135" CreationDate="2023-01-25T03:21:46.387" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was getting the same issue/error code, but for my Y2 axis:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;code&gt;TMC2208 or TMC2209 on Y2 requires Y2_HARDWARE_SERIAL or Y2_SERIAL_(RX|TX)_PIN&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm running Marlin 2.0, on an MKS Gen L V2.1 with TMC2209 (BigTreeTech v1.2) drivers. I have X, Y, Y2 (Running on E1 driver) and E0 for a custom scientific instrument (that is not a 3D printer, but it uses the same firmware and G-Code to move about so it is all the same). I initially tried to get this all going on the MKS Gen L V1, however, it only has UART for 4 Drivers (see the video by &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dOJbSrWVu_Q&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Teaching Tech&lt;/a&gt;). You can not get 5 drivers controlled by UART moving on this V1.0 board. For this reason, I moved over to the MKS Gen L V2.1. If this V1 board is all you have, I guess you could leave one driver as an A4988 or DRV8825 and accept the loss of the upgrade to the TMC2209 for one axis. This was the firmware that won't ask for Serial Pins, which is where most of this issue comes from.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;SOLUTION:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The above solution by 'Jiří Maier' mostly fixed my problem. There are a few things to note and modify though:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In &lt;code&gt;configuration.h&lt;/code&gt;, &lt;code&gt;#define EXTRUDERS 1&lt;/code&gt; defines the number of extruders. This is important here I think (I'm 85% on this). This value will push the 'extruder' down onto the next available stepper driver, which will be E0. Therefore I moved my Y2 driver to E1 as E0 was 'occupied' by the extruder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In &lt;code&gt;configuration.h&lt;/code&gt;, make sure the &lt;code&gt;DRIVER_TYPE&lt;/code&gt; axes are all set correctly to the number of drivers you actually have. For example, I am using a driver for X, Y, Z, Y2, and an extra one E0 (for pumping liquids), so 5 total. Here, Y2 will replace the E1 driver, so E1 is commented out. Therefore, all used drivers have the TMC2209 commented in here. Everything else should be commented out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OAOtA.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Screenshot of Marlin 2.0 Firmware, in Configuration.h section. Search for 'X_DRIVER_TYPE'&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OAOtA.png&quot; alt=&quot;Screen shot of Marlin 2.0 Firmware, in Configuration.h section. Search for 'X_DRIVER_TYPE'&quot; title=&quot;Screenshot of Marlin 2.0 Firmware, in Configuration.h section. Search for 'X_DRIVER_TYPE'&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After this then you can assign the pins as mentioned by Jiří Maier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the &lt;code&gt;pins_MKS_GEN_L_V21&lt;/code&gt; file I changed all starts of the code for &lt;code&gt;E1_SERIAL_TX_PIN&lt;/code&gt; to &lt;code&gt;Y2_SERIAL_TX_PIN&lt;/code&gt;, like below:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#ifndef Y2_SERIAL_TX_PIN                           &#xA;  #define Y2_SERIAL_TX_PIN                    20    &#xA;#endif&#xA;#ifndef Y2_SERIAL_RX_PIN                    &#xA;  #define Y2_SERIAL_RX_PIN                    12    &#xA;#endif&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Similarly, in the &lt;code&gt;pins_RAMPS&lt;/code&gt; file I changed the &lt;code&gt;E1_STEP_PIN&lt;/code&gt; to &lt;code&gt;Y2_STEP_PIN&lt;/code&gt; and so on, see the image below.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#define Y2_STEP_PIN                           36                          &#xA;#define Y2_DIR_PIN                            34    &#xA;#define Y2_ENABLE_PIN                         30    &#xA;#ifndef Y2_CS_PIN                   &#xA;  #define Y2_CS_PIN                           44&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36991" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2023-01-25T04:21:38.543" LastActivityDate="2023-01-25T04:21:38.543" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20495" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20382" CreationDate="2023-01-25T04:30:46.380" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Mine is doing the exact same thing on the latest Marlin Bug Fix, Ender 3 Pro, 4.2.7 board and CR Touch. On the 7th point it pushes super far into the bed and engages the springs. There must be a bug, I am going to compile the standard release and see if the same thing happens.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36992" LastEditorUserId="36992" LastEditDate="2023-01-25T04:31:41.470" LastActivityDate="2023-01-25T04:31:41.470" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20496" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-01-25T07:11:18.010" Score="-1" ViewCount="262" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have had my Ender 3 Pro for roughly a year now and have decided to make some upgrades.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I recently upgraded to a BLTouch and silent board. I am having a problem auto homing where the printer does its usual homing process until it gets to the z axis. It simply doesn't move and displays &amp;quot;STOPPED&amp;quot; on the screen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36994" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2024-03-01T07:19:12.083" LastActivityDate="2024-03-01T07:19:12.083" Title="Ender 3 Pro not auto homing" Tags="|creality-ender-3|troubleshooting|bed-leveling|bltouch|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20498" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-01-25T15:33:00.507" Score="4" ViewCount="6430" Body="&lt;p&gt;Setup: Anycubic Kobra Neo (Firmware v1.3.3), Cura 5.2.1&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I recently bought an Anycubic Kobra Neo.&#xA;It works but has issues with auto bed leveling. Specifically, auto bed leveling does not compensate for bed tilt in X and Y directions correctly. After running the auto leveling, the printer consistently prints higher up in the right back corner, compared to the front left corner of the build plate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem does not seem to be related to auto bed leveling being disabled though. While printing, you can see the Z lead screw turning, so the printer definitely tries to compensate for something.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I tried:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Print Z calibration patterns&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Run auto leveling again using the attached controller&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Run auto leveling again with the &lt;code&gt;G29&lt;/code&gt; command and prior &lt;code&gt;G28&lt;/code&gt; to home, followed by &lt;code&gt;M500&lt;/code&gt; to save the mesh&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Add &lt;code&gt;M420 S1&lt;/code&gt; to start G-code (also tried &lt;code&gt;M420 L&lt;/code&gt; and both together)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Reset EEPROM with &lt;code&gt;M502&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use Repetier Host instead of Cura&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Used different filament&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ct23e.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Z Calibration Pattern&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ct23e.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Z Calibration Pattern&quot; title=&quot;Z Calibration Pattern&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DAEZC.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Front left Corner of Z Calibration Pattern&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DAEZC.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Front left Corner of Z Calibration Pattern&quot; title=&quot;Front left Corner of Z Calibration Pattern&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KYVaG.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Back Right Corner of Z Calibration Pattern&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KYVaG.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Back Right Corner of Z Calibration Pattern&quot; title=&quot;Back Right Corner of Z Calibration Pattern&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25965" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2023-01-25T18:47:00.580" LastActivityDate="2023-06-08T14:32:20.967" Title="Auto Bed Leveling does not compensate for bed tilt correctly (Anycubic Kobra Neo)" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|bed-leveling|calibration|z-probe|anycubic-kobra-neo|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20499" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18399" CreationDate="2023-01-25T19:59:08.643" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It would be highly dependant on the printer itself. For example, the Ender 5 is technically a more expensive printer than the Ender 3, but its hot end etc are functionally equivalent for the most part as the price difference is largely due to the large build volume and the Z axis being on the bed rather than the extruder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other higher grade printers, such as the Bambu range are significantly more expensive and have higher grade extruders and hot ends, but they can push the hardware much closer to its physical limitations, and so can create more problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unless you are comparing differences between high and low end in the hundreds of dollars with very low end units and mid range units, the biggest single factor is likely to be how the printer is used and how it is maintained.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In some instances, problems may be more likely down to cheap filament, or filament with a high moisture content. Lower end printers may be more susceptible to these kind of issues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="29097" LastActivityDate="2023-01-25T19:59:08.643" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20502" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-01-26T22:12:44.013" Score="1" ViewCount="114" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm printing a keychain. In fact, I'll soon be printing a LOT of these keychains (they'll be available to everyone at a school).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After a couple test prints everything looks good... except for one little issue. During the first layer, there's a problem with the first wall extrusion for the eye hole the metal keyring will eventually pass through. Being so small, it doesn't like to adhere to the bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I could probably resolve this by tightening up the bed level. However, I already like the level position for the rest of the print, and from experience I know going much tighter will start to make it difficult to remove items or even leave grooves in the print mat. I could also resolve this by slowing the down the first layer... and if it were just one key chain that's what I'd do. But for a few hundred of these I'd like to see if I can optimize this some more. As it is, it adds 20 seconds or so to a print that's otherwise only 10 minutes long. It's enough to add up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've also been through the G-Code in a text editor, but so far I haven't been able to identify the moves in question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a way I can slow down just one set of extrusion moves?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12562" LastActivityDate="2023-01-27T12:15:35.067" Title="Slow down a specific set of extruder moves" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20503" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-01-27T03:21:37.803" Score="2" ViewCount="52" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am trying to install a new Dragonfly hotend on my Ender 3.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I bought some epoxy which advertised high thermal conductivity, but I've found it difficult to use.  It was thick, so it was very hard for me to get the very thin probe ends into the relatively large hole filled with epoxy, especially if I want to be careful of air gaps (which I have no way of checking for.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem was so bad I actually bought a new hotend.  What materials or techniques can you suggest to get the probe installed faithfully?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="34543" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2023-01-27T05:07:07.490" LastActivityDate="2023-01-27T05:07:07.490" Title="Installing a temperature probe... what kind of adhesive to use?" Tags="|creality-ender-3|hotend|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20504" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20502" CreationDate="2023-01-27T12:15:35.067" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can use G-code &lt;a href=&quot;https://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M220.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;code&gt;M220&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/a&gt; (Set Feedrate Percentage).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You need to first identify the part that needs to be printed slowly, an online G-code interpreter can help you visualize this. Once located, insert the G-code to store the current value with &lt;code&gt;M220 B&lt;/code&gt;, change to a lower speed &lt;code&gt;M220 S20&lt;/code&gt;, print the key ring part and restore the speed to the stored value &lt;code&gt;M220 R&lt;/code&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2023-01-27T12:15:35.067" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20505" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18376" CreationDate="2023-01-27T14:49:51.150" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can use Simplify3D to slice your .STL files into .X3G needed for the Makerbot. You can either connect to the printer via USB or export the .X3G file to an SD card for use in the printer. Hope this helps!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37020" LastActivityDate="2023-01-27T14:49:51.150" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20507" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-01-28T05:14:25.943" Score="2" ViewCount="444" Body="&lt;p&gt;Currently my 3D printer starts all projects from the lower left corner of the heatbed. I want to change the default setting to make the center of the heatbed the default position.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I have not found any documentation on how to do this. Can you help?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37026" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2023-01-28T23:25:36.657" LastActivityDate="2023-01-29T09:54:17.273" Title="I want to change default start position to the center of Creality CR 10 Smart Pro" Tags="|creality-cr-10|creality|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20509" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-01-29T04:16:54.067" Score="0" ViewCount="220" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an Ender 3 that I have been learning for about a month now. I’ve just started to print with PLA silk. I’ve managed to get some quite nice prints out of standard PLA and also PETG. Maybe it’s just the glossiness of the silk that is highlighting these surface zits.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I’ve already tuned my E-steps, and have done temp towers, retraction test towers, and flow tests but just can’t seem to nail what is giving me these blemishes. I’m using a .6 mm nozzle, temp tower showed 195 °C for the nozzle, 60 °C for the bed. Printing at .2 mm layer height and 50 mm feed rate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Everything is stock except for an all-metal extruder and a BLTouch.&#xA;There seem to be a lot of profiles for Cura floating around and I tried them but most of them seem to be tailored to the standard .4 mm nozzle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KPdHH.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Side view of a 3D printed model with zits on the surface&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KPdHH.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Side view of a 3D printed model with zits on the surface&quot; title=&quot;Side view of a 3D printed model with zits on the surface&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PihNp.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Another view of a 3D printed model with zits on the surface&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PihNp.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Another view of a 3D printed model with zits on the surface&quot; title=&quot;Another view of a 3D printed model with zits on the surface&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37033" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2023-01-29T05:11:04.957" LastActivityDate="2023-02-04T20:43:17.467" Title="Can’t seem to tune out surface zits" Tags="|creality-ender-3|ultimaker-cura|surface|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20510" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20554" CreationDate="2023-01-29T11:19:52.507" Score="1" ViewCount="893" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently bought a Anycubic Vyper which prints overall not bad but has a real nasty issue with stringing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried out several temperatures, settings for retract distances and retraction speed but nothing seems to really work. All of my filament is new and stringing occurs with different brands so it does not seem to be caused by the filament.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the nozzle heats up there is molten filament coming out of the nozzle even the extruder is not doing anything at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there something I can try to fix the stringing apart from taking the hotend apart?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Retraction tower with different retract-values:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UOKTl.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;3D print showing stringing#1&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UOKTl.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;3D print showing stringing&quot; title=&quot;3D print showing stringing#1&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Retract test which shows the stringing:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xe0Ev.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;3D print showing stringing#2&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xe0Ev.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;3D print showing stringing#2&quot; title=&quot;3D print showing stringing#2&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37039" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2023-05-24T10:35:00.783" LastActivityDate="2023-05-24T10:35:00.783" Title="Stringing on Anycubic Vyper" Tags="|stringing|anycubic-vyper|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20511" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20510" CreationDate="2023-01-29T21:09:39.397" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You have a retraction test tower, but consider that a temperature tower is also a useful reference. Your nozzle temperatures may be excessive, especially if you have a substantial oozing from the nozzle when idle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Consider also that your filament may need drying despite being &amp;quot;fresh out of the box.&amp;quot; There are quite a few anecdotes with supporting photos of users printing tests with fresh filament, along with a matching photo of the same test printed after drying the filament in a food dehydrator.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastActivityDate="2023-01-29T21:09:39.397" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20512" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15456" CreationDate="2023-01-29T22:29:34.620" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had this problem after installing BLTouch as well, but didn't want to compile the firmware from source to solve it. I'm using the stock firmware for the Ender 3 with BLTouch from Creality's website.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To get around this problem, I added the &lt;code&gt;M109 S200&lt;/code&gt; instruction to my custom G-code in Cura after the auto-leveling instruction. &lt;a href=&quot;https://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M109.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;code&gt;M109&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/a&gt; resets the nozzle temperature and waits for it to heat up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;ETA: obviously the downside to this is that you have to edit the custom G-code every time you want to print at a different temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37043" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2023-01-29T22:41:39.880" LastActivityDate="2023-01-29T22:41:39.880" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20513" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20587" CreationDate="2023-01-29T23:14:59.240" Score="1" ViewCount="240" Body="&lt;p&gt;Looking for a way to taper an imported STL model off toward the bottom (or top, if easier).&#xA;The same transformation would turn a straight cylinder into a cone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The intent is to make a vase like the model in the image that tapers off so it will fit as an outer layer to my clay pots.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The model is symmetric around the XZ and YZ plane and only has positive z values.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I assume this would require some non-linear transformation, but I'm unable to find results when googling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3wpDX.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3wpDX.png&quot; alt=&quot;Model&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19284" LastEditorUserId="19284" LastEditDate="2023-02-15T18:37:29.670" LastActivityDate="2023-02-17T08:40:59.933" Title="Conical scaling in OpenSCAD or Blender" Tags="|openscad|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20514" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-01-30T09:46:45.110" Score="0" ViewCount="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;You mix 10 % clay with 90 % quartz sand, fill a wooden box 1/3, then insert your wax model which includes a funnel, then fill the rest of the box with more clay and quartz sand. After heating to about 90 °C, the wax will melt and flow out of a hole in the bottom. Then you can cast aluminum from the top.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Except I want to do this with 3D printed plastic, not wax. What material would be suited for this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30842" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2023-01-30T10:50:12.313" LastActivityDate="2023-01-30T10:50:12.313" Title="Plastic for casting?" Tags="|3d-models|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="4" ClosedDate="2023-01-30T15:14:31.000" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20515" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3151" CreationDate="2023-01-30T10:08:29.933" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;A 3D printer does not have the necessary resolution to create a functioning screw thread. I suggest you print the hole (for the nut) and the shaft (for the screw) in oversize and use a tap and die set to make the threads.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You must print them out of PA12 nylon obviously. Due to the size, warping will not be an issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30842" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2023-01-30T10:44:51.827" LastActivityDate="2023-01-30T10:44:51.827" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20516" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20446" CreationDate="2023-01-30T20:55:50.073" Score="2" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Problem 3&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Forget about auto bed leveling. Just do it manually.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Problem 2, Problem 4&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, Build plates are completely warped, sometimes up to 1 mm. On very large printers such as the Ender 5 Plus, it can get as bad as 2 mm. Every board has its limits and experience will tell you what you can print and what not, and what difficulties you will get.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A common issue with the Ender 3 printers is that a cable rubs against one of the wheels responsible for bed levelling, misadjusting it, usually the one on the rear left. Make sure that isn't happening.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Problem 1&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Everyone I know incorrectly &lt;strong&gt;levels&lt;/strong&gt; AND incorrectly &lt;strong&gt;uses&lt;/strong&gt; their build plate. If you only use PLA you might get away with doing it the &amp;quot;ordinary&amp;quot; way, but that won't work for more advanced materials and even with PLA it will severely limit you. Here's what you want to do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a rear view of your Ender 3 S1. You want to make sure that your X-axis is parallel to the rest of the machine. Turn one of the motors (marked red) by hand to make it parallel if it isn't. Use a normal ruler to measure the distances (marked yellow)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YR6aI.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Photo of the Ender 3S1 printer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YR6aI.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Photo of the Ender 3S1 printer&quot; title=&quot;Photo of the Ender 3S1 printer&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once that is fixed, you level the build plate. The first thing you will want to do is level it along the X-axis.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Every build plate bulge at its center: the red cross (image below) will be the highest point of the build plate. You will want to avoid printing there if you can. Print small parts where the green cross is. Print long, thin parts along the green arrows. Print large round parts (&amp;gt;10 cm) in the center. Also, you will want to avoid printing long thin parts from the front left to the rear left, or from the front right to the rear right, as it will upset the balance of the build plate the heavier the print becomes, tilting it. If you have a printer that is built like an Ender 5 (not the Ender 5 Plus) you will want to avoid printing at the very front of the build plate, because it will tilt with added weight. That's why it's good practice to &lt;strong&gt;always&lt;/strong&gt; print at the rear of the board along the X-axis.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So first you make sure, that the bed is flat and at the correct height along the green line because that's where you'll want to print. That is easy, as you only need to operate two screws instead of all four. Then you do the same for the orange line. You will want to go back to the green line and make light corrections. Forget about the center. The center will always be warped, so never print there, unless you're printing something really large and you have no choice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Green is good. Red is bad. Avoid orange completely, there is no need to ever print there. I do it as I sometimes print nylon, and cover that area with PA adhesives. Saves me from washing the board between material changes. But don't do it on an Ender 5-style printer, Ender 3 will work fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gi7D5.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Photo of the build plate for an Ender printer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gi7D5.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Photo of the build plate for an Ender printer&quot; title=&quot;Photo of the build plate for an Ender printer&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Cheating&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If all else fails, &lt;strong&gt;contact adhesives&lt;/strong&gt; can be a lifesaver. You'll want to buy a second glass build plate for this because of the mess. You coat the entire build plate with a thick layer of contact adhesive (or just the parts you need if you know what you're doing) and let it dry for about 1 hour. The glue will dry out. Then you heat the bed up to no more than 80 °C. The adhesive will now soften and is ready to be printed &lt;strong&gt;into&lt;/strong&gt;. You start printing directly &lt;strong&gt;into&lt;/strong&gt; that layer of glue (a raft can help). It won't really matter how bad the bed levelling is, as you'll be literally printing into the glue. After the first layer has been laid down, you turn off the heated bed. Once the glue cools down, it will harden and create an incredibly strong bond to your print while your printer continues to print. After the print has finished, heat the bed to max 80 °C (50 °C for PLA, or it will soften the material) and sprinkle the build plate with warm water, which will soften the adhesive and enable you to remove your print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30842" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2023-01-30T21:48:12.317" LastActivityDate="2023-01-30T21:48:12.317" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20517" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3151" CreationDate="2023-01-30T21:11:16.180" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could also apply a scaling factor in your&#xA;slicer to make a downloaded object larger or smaller. An M3 model scaled at +1.333 would produce a working thread with a nominal 4 mm OD.  As noted in the comments below, a different scale factor might be needed in the axial direction if exactly matching the pitch of an M4 thread is required.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="33030" LastEditorUserId="33030" LastEditDate="2023-01-31T14:16:01.957" LastActivityDate="2023-01-31T14:16:01.957" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20518" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20509" CreationDate="2023-01-30T21:26:33.490" Score="1" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Buy a better printer (Sorry, I'm going to be that guy). Judging by the visibility of the horizontal lines on your piece, the print is already painful to look at. This happens due to fluctuating temperatures. Ender 3 is for beginners learning to print who aren't sure if they want to invest in the new hobby, people on a budget who use it once a month, or people who want to mess around with firmware and play around with the code. Ender 3 prints like garbage, sorry, it's just the truth. If you're serious about printing: upgrade.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Buy high-quality PLA filament. Stay clear from cheap Amazon stuff, that will only clog your nozzle. This is probably the source of the blobs. Buy black or colorless PLA or live with the problems other colors might and will bring, especially glossy, glittery, fancy stuff.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Check &lt;strong&gt;Shell&lt;/strong&gt; &amp;gt; &lt;strong&gt;Outer before Inner Walls&lt;/strong&gt; in Cura.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Yr0Gd.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Screenshot of Cura Settings showing the Quality and Shell sections&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Yr0Gd.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Screenshot of Cura Settings showing the Quality and Shell sections&quot; title=&quot;Screenshot of Cura Settings showing the Quality and Shell sections&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol start=&quot;4&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Adjust &lt;strong&gt;Speed&lt;/strong&gt; &amp;gt; &lt;strong&gt;Outer Wall Speed&lt;/strong&gt;. Anything under 60 mm/s is &lt;strong&gt;fine&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;As a last resort: Reduce the flow rate. In Cura under &lt;strong&gt;Material&lt;/strong&gt; &amp;gt; &lt;strong&gt;Flow&lt;/strong&gt;, or &lt;strong&gt;Outer Wall Flow&lt;/strong&gt;. Not by too much though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If the blobs show up in a certain pattern (it does &lt;strong&gt;not&lt;/strong&gt; appear so), indeed turn off **Power Loss Recovery as the comment suggested. If they appear random (from what I see in the photos), there's &lt;strong&gt;no&lt;/strong&gt; need to turn off that feature whatsoever.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, you'll want to increase your retraction speed and perhaps also retraction amount (both under &lt;strong&gt;Travel&lt;/strong&gt; in Cura) judging by that stringing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30842" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2023-01-30T21:53:57.670" LastActivityDate="2023-01-30T21:53:57.670" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20519" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19317" CreationDate="2023-01-30T21:31:36.313" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;That print is &lt;strong&gt;not&lt;/strong&gt; possible on an FDM 3D printer. Period. Only a resin printer can pull off something as complicated as that. Perhaps a dual extruder with water-soluble support material will be able to pull it off, but even then you will have to scale the model up at least 2x, as the details are simply too small.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm a 3D printing veteran and I wouldn't even attempt something like that on an Ender 3. It's just not possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for the first print, your retraction speed is too low. If that doesn't help remove the stringing, increase your retraction amount too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30842" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2023-01-30T21:55:00.090" LastActivityDate="2023-01-30T21:55:00.090" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20520" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20459" CreationDate="2023-01-30T22:05:21.363" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here are your settings. The ones with the arrows are especially important. Just copy everything I've underlined with red and everything will work fine ;-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wbH8t.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wbH8t.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30842" LastActivityDate="2023-01-30T22:05:21.363" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20521" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11138" CreationDate="2023-01-30T22:45:54.537" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The other answers are good. For a more practical answer:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Magnet test&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As answered by Trish, steel with an austenitic atom structure, which most stainless steels have, are not magnetic. So forget the magnets. Metallurgy is complicated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZqtU5.gif&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZqtU5.gif&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Density test&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Brass has a density of 8.5 - 9, stainless steel is below 8. Depends on the alloy. Might be a bit tricky to detect such small differences.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Hardness test&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Better to do a hardness test. Hammer a nail made of mild steel into the nozzle, if the nozzle is softer than the nail, it's brass. If it's harder, it's stainless steel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are also HRC hardness scratch tests for that, although more intended for testing hardened steel. Find a chunk of structural steel and scratch the nozzle into it. Stainless steel will scratch the structural steel, brass &amp;amp; aluminium will scratch itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Spark test&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Use an angle grinder or a dremel tool: if there are sparks, it's steel. This is probably the easiest method.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30842" LastActivityDate="2023-01-30T22:45:54.537" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20522" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-01-30T23:46:17.413" Score="0" ViewCount="77" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sorry if this is something obvious, as I am new to 3D Printing and could not figure out why this is happening.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just switched to Cura from Simply3D as well as initially from FlashPrint as I wanted to be able to do more advanced stuff, which Cura provides (i.e. different infills per area via support blockers, etc...).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried matching the settings from S3D and FP as close as possible, but I am missing something. The same STL prints fine with S3D and FP [same PLA and Temps], but when I slice it with Cura, I sometimes get random blobs that expand around the extruder and stop the print. Is there some setting I am doing wrong?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any help with what I am doing wrong would be greatly appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YYT3T.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Photo of a partially printed models with blobs in them&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YYT3T.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Photo of a partially printed models with blobs in them&quot; title=&quot;Photo of a partially printed models with blobs in them&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37076" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2023-01-31T01:41:46.460" LastActivityDate="2023-02-03T19:48:09.833" Title="Blobs/Goop that block extruder in prints" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|flashforge-adventurer-4|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20524" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-01-31T13:36:26.923" Score="3" ViewCount="68" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to print something that's very wide and flat, like a board that covers the entire build plate (300x300) but is only 15 layers high. I've chosen grid infill and it works at the front left corner of the printer, but at the back right corner, some of the infill lines get all squashed together and overlap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At first I thought it was skipping infill lines, but I realized those same lines that are smashed at the top right corner even out at the bottom left and print as expected. It's as if the angle isn't quite right in the G-code and as the nozzle progresses along the plate it gets just a fraction of a degree off, which makes an exacerbated effect when the line it needs to print is so long. But why only on those parts of the print? The printer seems to think that one line is right next to the other line, when in reality there's almost a 1 cm gap!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do I eliminate those square gaps and make the gridlines straight?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm on an Artillery Sidewinder x1.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kUzkO.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Layers overlapping&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kUzkO.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Layers overlapping&quot; title=&quot;Layers overlapping&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37086" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2023-01-31T23:17:00.437" LastActivityDate="2023-03-10T17:55:18.863" Title="Square gaps and overlapping grid infill artillery sidewinder x1" Tags="|build-plate|infill|mechanics|print-axis-offset|artillery-sidewinder-x1|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20525" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-01-31T17:45:27.577" Score="1" ViewCount="161" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I've followed the wonderful tutorial &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.reddit.com/r/anycubic/comments/y2waxu/tutorial_how_to_build_anycubic_marlin_source_code/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; and managed to modify the Anycubic firmware to include more mesh points to probe for (I've set it to have a 15x15 grid because I'm printing a large scale project on my Kobra Plus and the first layer has to be immaculate, which it isn't due to highly warped bed). It went through the 30 minute or so time needed for this auto bed levelling with this larger grid, and all seemed okay, but then before printing I decided to connect the printer to Pronterface and actually get values that it stored from this procedure with the &lt;code&gt;M420 V&lt;/code&gt; command, and... disaster. Values on X and Y from 4&lt;sup&gt;th&lt;/sup&gt; to 11&lt;sup&gt;th&lt;/sup&gt; are mostly zero, with some displaying ridiculously large numbers (I get that I have a warped bed, but not that much, haha). Now I do know that Marlin supports up to 15x15 grids, and the EEPROM of the Kobra Plus clearly has space for that since the grid returned has all 225 values, but there seems an issue where they are stored in these &amp;quot;slots&amp;quot; improperly. Is there maybe something that I'm missing or something else besides the &lt;code&gt;#define GRID_MAX_POINTS_X&lt;/code&gt; definition that also has to be modified/enabled when changing the grid size?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After printer restart &lt;code&gt;M420 V&lt;/code&gt; returns &amp;quot;mesh invalid.&amp;quot; (quite obviously, I'd say)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xuNOb.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Grid printout right after probing&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xuNOb.png&quot; alt=&quot;Grid printout right after probing&quot; title=&quot;Grid printout right after probing&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It looks like an issue with storage specifically. I used &lt;code&gt;G29&lt;/code&gt; from pronterface and it returned realistic values all-round. It's when you send &lt;code&gt;M500&lt;/code&gt; and then try to print the mesh with &lt;code&gt;M420 V&lt;/code&gt;, then it returns these ridiculous values. Confirmed this with &lt;code&gt;M420 C&lt;/code&gt;, then &lt;code&gt;M500&lt;/code&gt; and &lt;code&gt;M420 V&lt;/code&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Same thing: Normal values, sent to storage, ridiculous values pulled. After reboot of the printer, there seems to be no mesh data at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37090" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2023-01-31T22:09:48.443" LastActivityDate="2023-01-31T22:09:48.443" Title="15x15 mesh returns ridiculous values" Tags="|marlin|bed-leveling|adhesion|pronterface|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20526" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-02-01T08:59:14.203" Score="0" ViewCount="343" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been trying to print a part through an SD card, but my printer doesn't show my G-code file.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I thought the SD card was not working but then I tried printing an old file I had and it's working just fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I am wondering what can be wrong?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also tried to change the name of the file to redo the converting from STL to G-code and nothing seems to work...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37096" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2023-02-01T10:24:15.583" LastActivityDate="2023-02-01T10:24:15.583" Title="Printer can't read my G-code file" Tags="|creality-ender-5|sd|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20527" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-02-02T11:32:24.307" Score="4" ViewCount="134" Body="&lt;p&gt;This line has started to appear on my prints. I've tried to revert the settings I've changed back to my original settings but the line is still there. The previous prints didn't have this line as far as I can remember. What could possibly cause this problem? I didn't use any supports or build plate adhesion. It is annoying because those lines also appear on the prints.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KvlRX.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Screenshot of Cura's Preview for a printed model showing the travel paths&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KvlRX.png&quot; alt=&quot;Screenshot of Cura's Preview for a printed model showing the travel paths&quot; title=&quot;Screenshot of Cura's Preview for a printed model showing the travel paths&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/J78XB.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Screenshot of Cura's Travel path settings&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/J78XB.png&quot; alt=&quot;Screenshot of Cura's Travel path settings&quot; title=&quot;Screenshot of Cura's Travel path settings&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="34433" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2023-05-31T14:17:32.653" LastActivityDate="2023-06-01T12:54:50.507" Title="Travel path line appeared and I can't make it disappear" Tags="|creality-ender-3|print-quality|ultimaker-cura|speed|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20528" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20527" CreationDate="2023-02-02T12:03:07.570" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The line in question is a travel line, so no extrusion is deliberately done there. So, if you see that filament is being deposited, your retraction settings are incorrect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Generally, a blob is generated at the origin (or the last point after leveling) and proper retraction and travel speed should be in place to prevent filament to leak during the travel to the first printing position.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should check your start G-code and look for retraction and speed of travel. A larger retraction and higher feed rate for travelling may prevent the deposition of filament.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remember that the higher the temperature of the filament, the more easy it flows out of the nozzle. If you are printing hotter, or with a different material that is more fluid at the same temperature, you run into these problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2023-06-01T12:54:50.507" LastActivityDate="2023-06-01T12:54:50.507" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20529" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-02-03T02:09:38.213" Score="-1" ViewCount="4946" Body="&lt;p&gt;I purchased it new from Amazon in December. It started about one week ago and it just stops with a constant beep and does not allow me to do anything else except turn it off. Doesn't happen on all prints but just loses its brain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It does save the printing but I must shut it down manually and then it picks off where it left off but still does the same thing. Printing a bonsai bowl and other things and it goes to 0 °C. Is this something I am doing incorrectly or is it a defect in the unit? To me sounds like a defect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37117" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2023-02-03T04:31:56.733" LastActivityDate="2023-12-27T16:09:21.233" Title="New Ender 3 V2 Neo keeps losing nozzle and plate temperature in the middle of the print and must be turned off to stop the print" Tags="|creality-ender-3|hotend|nozzle|heat-management|build-plate|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20532" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14456" CreationDate="2023-02-03T16:30:09.027" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Because of thermal expansion, you will not get an accurate mesh result test after test for at least 30-60 minutes or longer, depending on the thickness of the bed plate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have 1/4 inch MIC6 plates on both my printers and I have to heat my beds for at least 60 minutes before the thermal expansion stops and I can get an accurate mesh and start printing. The funny thing is, no one tells you this when you buy an Antclab BLTouch. I bought 3 at once and thought they were all defective and garbage until I figured out it was thermal expansion. I couldn't get an accurate mesh twice in a row if my life depended on it. I still can't find this information anywhere to this day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So for anyone reading this, if you want a perfect first layer using a BLTouch, keep doing a mesh test again and again until they are accurate one after another. Then you will know how long you have to wait before you can get a perfect first layer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Oh and one more thing, different temps will mean different wait times. It takes longer for thermal expansion to settle at 70 °C or 100 °C than it does at 60 °C, depending on which type of filament you want to print. Happy Printing !!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37127" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2023-02-03T20:25:18.387" LastActivityDate="2023-02-03T20:25:18.387" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20533" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-02-03T18:12:13.617" Score="2" ViewCount="674" Body="&lt;p&gt;I wanted to upgrade my Ender 5 plus to a silent board as it makes a lot of noise. So I chose the BTT SKR 3 EZ board and started to configure it. However, in the Marlin configuration, there was a README explaining that the LCD must be flashed, which makes sense.&#xA;The thing is, it also says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The LCD will need the cable modified to fit the SKR 3 motherboard.&#xA;Four pins, tx2-pa10 rx2-pa9 gnd-g 5v-+5v, (See the boards silkscreens for pin labels)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found the TX2, RX2, GND, and +5 V on the LCD (as in the picture) but have no clue what is pa10 and pa9...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/e2elR.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Photo of an LCD Pin header with labels for the individual pins&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/e2elR.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Photo of an LCD Pin header with labels for the individual pins&quot; title=&quot;Photo of an LCD Pin header with labels for the individual pins&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note:&#xA;After flashing the LCD, when I connect it back to the ancient board, it lights up with the Marlin logo for a few seconds and then goes off. When using the SKR 3 EZ (flashed of course) nothing happen as I didn't change the cabbling yet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37131" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2023-02-04T13:33:31.787" LastActivityDate="2023-07-04T15:02:40.310" Title="Modified cable for Ender 5+ LCD touchscreen" Tags="|electronics|creality-ender-5|lcd-screen|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20535" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20509" CreationDate="2023-02-03T19:50:40.823" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Change seam to User defined, then to back right Also Adjust your retraction settings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="35096" LastActivityDate="2023-02-03T19:50:40.823" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20537" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20533" CreationDate="2023-02-04T00:01:48.087" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;but have no clue what is pa10 and pa9...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These are identifiers for the microprocessor pins. You find these two in the TFT header on the right in the image below:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/byeQf.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/byeQf.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2023-02-04T00:01:48.087" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20538" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20544" CreationDate="2023-02-04T13:43:35.887" Score="2" ViewCount="491" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm producing a series of brackets to allow a laser cutter to be reliably positioned on a waste board\spoil board in that has a measurement grid on it, and to allow a honeycomb bed to be reliably positioned within it in relation to the laser cutter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Essentially, I'm making 4 large right angle piece with mounting screws and stepped sides. Which will be screwed down to a piece of timber so that things can be fixed to them in the same position each time they're used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It has a lot of corners, and 90° angles, and it looks like it was designed by a Brutalist architect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will bevelling&lt;sup&gt;1)&lt;/sup&gt; the corners for purely aesthetic reasons have any practical effect on the print or the printing process. For example will rounder corners make the print stronger or weaker, or will it make warping more or less likely. Will it improve or harm bed adhesion, will it have any substantial effect on print time or quality?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Version 1.0&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mWPQx.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mWPQx.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm using an Ender 5 with PLA and a 0.2 layer height. Because that's what I have on my shelf right now, and I don't want to spend any extra money on this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1)&lt;/sup&gt; &lt;em&gt;I'm using the word &amp;quot;bevel&amp;quot; because I'm using Blender to make the model (Because it's what I'm most familiar with), and you create rounded edges using the Bevel tool in Blender.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="29097" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2023-02-04T22:50:36.007" LastActivityDate="2023-02-05T15:24:01.910" Title="Do bevelled corners hold any practical advantages or disadvantages over square ones for blocky functional prints?" Tags="|print-quality|3d-models|3d-design|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20539" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-02-04T15:35:47.020" Score="2" ViewCount="227" Body="&lt;p&gt;How do I view the results from the BLTouch probing on my Ender 3?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have set up all the firmware and installed the BLTouch fine and it works as expected. But how am I able to see the results of the &lt;code&gt;G29&lt;/code&gt; 9-step probes so I can view them in a mesh visualiser?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don’t have an OctoPrint print server, as I know this comes with a Plug-in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37139" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2023-02-05T23:07:25.900" LastActivityDate="2024-03-02T02:01:15.223" Title="How to see BLTouch probing results?" Tags="|creality-ender-3|bed-leveling|bltouch|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20540" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20496" CreationDate="2023-02-04T15:53:54.230" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would revisit and start again on your firmware. Sounds to me as if the printer is getting confused as to which Z Endstop it should be looking at.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37139" LastActivityDate="2023-02-04T15:53:54.230" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20541" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-02-04T16:34:24.440" Score="1" ViewCount="43" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am making my own printer. I used Repetier as firmware, made all cable connections, and installed the software. The screen came on and I connected it to the computer at the right frequency, but the motors can only move in one direction (plus) and when I select and click the G-code file, it does not react. What could be the reason for this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37141" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2023-02-04T22:07:59.727" LastActivityDate="2023-08-01T16:39:38.900" Title="I'm making my own printer, my motors only go in the plus (+) direction, I can't send them in the opposite direction" Tags="|repetier|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20542" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20509" CreationDate="2023-02-04T20:43:17.467" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have added a Satsana fan shroud and direct extruder. I’m beginning to wonder if it’s just this filament. I have done test retraction towers using firmware retraction so I can make adjustments mid print and have tried retraction distances from .5mm to 5mm and still can’t eliminate stringing. It’s better, but still there. I have also tried test temp towers and still can’t eliminate it. I haven’t printed anything that will show surface zits and blobs, so I don’t know if that has improved. It’s a new roll but I still put it in the oven at 45-50 for 4 hours to see if that helped, it didn’t.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37033" LastActivityDate="2023-02-04T20:43:17.467" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20543" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20538" CreationDate="2023-02-04T23:24:02.317" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will bevelling the corners for purely aesthetic reasons have any practical effect on the print or the printing process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No, not necessarily in this model. If one positive reason for using a chamfer&lt;sup&gt;1)&lt;/sup&gt; or a fillet&lt;sup&gt;2)&lt;/sup&gt; would have in this design is that it may make it easier to insert the honeycomb plate in the recess of the corner model cutout.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But, fillets and chamfers can have more useful effects. E.g. a bottom fillet is usually harder to print well, on the other hand, a chamfer prints fine. See e.g. &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/13746/&quot;&gt;this answer&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/19495/&quot;&gt;this answer&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A fillet can also be very useful in preventing stress concentrations in corners (of structurally loaded parts), preventing prints to fail prematurely (like a weld does between 2 perpendicular plates).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The effect on printing time and filament saving is negligible, there is usually not much volume involved.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of the biggest advantages is that parts look more professional!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1)&lt;/sup&gt; from &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chamfer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Wikipedia&lt;/a&gt;: &lt;em&gt;In machining the word bevel is not used to refer to a chamfer. Machinists use chamfers to &amp;quot;ease&amp;quot; otherwise sharp edges, both for safety and to prevent damage to the edges.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;A chamfer may sometimes be regarded as a type of bevel, and the terms are often used interchangeably.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2)&lt;/sup&gt; from &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fillet_(mechanics)&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Wikipedia&lt;/a&gt;: &lt;em&gt;In mechanical engineering, a fillet is a rounding of an interior or exterior corner of a part design.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2023-02-05T13:44:48.173" LastActivityDate="2023-02-05T13:44:48.173" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20544" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20538" CreationDate="2023-02-05T14:06:03.553" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Bevel chamfer fillet, whatever.  For correct semantics see the other excellent answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are advantages of rounded (or at least, less sharp) edges and corners?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In FDM, curved xy paths are stronger than sharp corners and if your printer supports acceleration, may print marginally faster.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Curved surfaces feel nice in general and make the part more professional looking.  Sharp corners are...well...pointy and sharp.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sharp corners and flat side faces can expose calibration issues with your printer that curved faces can hide, so the results look better.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Vertically slanted surfaces with bridged inside horizontal curves are difficult to print without good support.  The inside perimeter can separate from the infill, severely degrading print quality.  Sometimes replacing circles of slanted holes with pentagons or octagons helps this and improves bridging, but good support works better.  This could be construed as a slicer bug, but I've yet to see a slicer that does this well.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;For bottom layers, round corners (or just circles in general) can increase bed adhesion and reduce peel up where sharp corners make that worse.  This is more of an issue with plastics with a shrink factor (like ABS) and nearly not an issue with PLA.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In general (and fillets in particular), rounded corners anywhere are stronger.  Inside fillets reduce stress concentrations, spreading it over the whole curve instead of concentrating it at the intersection.  For outside corners, a sharp corner is a target for chipping and direct impacts on the corner can transmit concentrated forces into the part where a curved surface would spread them.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;As already stated, curved surfaces in the xy plane are stronger and higher quality with FDM, but even vertical curves can be stronger, as most slicers add extra material around them.  However, if you have a buggy slicer that doesn't do this, an upper curved surface with too steep of an angle, like a sphere, may have holes and could collapse.  On the other hand, a buggy slicer might not add solid layers under the corner and only have infill support under sharp vertical corners, creating a delamination risk, where a gradual curve or slant would at least have overlapping perimeters.  Lower curved surfaces can have support issues.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Curved or beveled edges can increase passive compliance for parts that have to slide to join with other parts, making them easier to fit.  However, inappropriate use of this can add unwanted gaps at the edges of joined parts, in which case a gradual taper (or just a square corner) might be better than a bevel or round.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Curved surfaces are harder to draw, and depending on your cad package, may require extra design planning.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28397" LastEditorUserId="28397" LastEditDate="2023-02-05T14:27:20.643" LastActivityDate="2023-02-05T14:27:20.643" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20546" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-02-05T17:03:44.717" Score="1" ViewCount="86" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't really know much about 3D scans and so on, so I'm just curious about it. I need to scan objects with different forms and I want to know which level of details I can reach during the scan. For example, if the object has a small (0.1 mm) black point on it, will this be detected?&#xA;Or if the object has a really small scratch (barely eye-visible), will this be reproduced as a 3D model? So how many details deep can I go and at which price? (More or less)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or do you know if there is any other technology that can do such things?&#xA;For example, I can see those small scratches or defects on a good camera, the problem is that camera does not scan the entire 3D object, but I would need to shoot each angle of it manually. What can I do to scan the entire object and get deep details of it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37153" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2023-02-05T22:58:51.950" LastActivityDate="2023-08-09T03:13:51.920" Title="Is it possible to have very high resolution 3D scan with not too expensive scanners?" Tags="|3d-models|scanning|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20547" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20539" CreationDate="2023-02-05T17:32:54.697" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I used Pronterface terminal emulator and connected the printer via USB! Simple really when you figure out how!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37139" LastActivityDate="2023-02-05T17:32:54.697" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20548" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20539" CreationDate="2023-02-05T23:12:01.750" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;G-code &lt;a href=&quot;https://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M420.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;code&gt;M420 V&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/a&gt; will show the mesh heights of the currently loaded mesh.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can use a &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10573/what-is-a-printer-console-terminal&quot;&gt;console&lt;/a&gt; to send the command and retrieve the values.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2023-02-05T23:12:01.750" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20549" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20546" CreationDate="2023-02-06T01:00:02.953" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Structured Light Scanning uses a turntable and a dedicated light source that creates patterns on the scanned object. The patterns are interpreted by the software to generate a 3D model. Photogrammetry uses a series of photographs, sometimes on a turntable, sometimes not. The software that does not support turntable use tends to use the apparent background movement to assist in creating reference points to generate the model.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The resolution aspect of your question is dependent on the resolution of the camera and the ability to detect and determine any variations in height/depth/width, etc. If there is insufficient camera resolution (Macro lens), the feature you desire to appear will not appear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Photogrammetry and SLS are susceptible to specularity and &amp;quot;invisible blacks.&amp;quot; The former is the result of a reflection of light, causing a bright spot that interferes with the calculations and dimensional determination. Transparent objects also have a similar problem. Blacks on an object are easy to detect by the human eye, often because they contain specularity as well. The dark sections are erroneously detected by the software as depth or detected as gaps/chasms/open sections. Spray-on powders provide a more uniform surface to remove these problems, but may not be suitable to your purposes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Multiple cameras is one method used to deal with the necessary angles of captures. &lt;a href=&quot;https://vgl.ict.usc.edu/Research/PresidentialPortrait/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;President Obama&lt;/a&gt; was the subject of a fairly complex photogrammetry construction as well as the subject of a series of hand-held structured light scanning image.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Image below from linked site:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ffher.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ffher.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;obama photogrammetry&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastActivityDate="2023-02-06T01:00:02.953" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20550" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20483" CreationDate="2023-02-06T01:56:39.260" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is not possible to insert a steel dowel into a hole of a plastic workpiece with a press fit: at least not for long. Tremendous force is exerted on the plastic by the steel, and the plastic will soon begin to deform in a process called cold flow or creep.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36944" LastEditorUserId="36944" LastEditDate="2023-02-06T13:01:16.160" LastActivityDate="2023-02-06T13:01:16.160" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20551" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20552" CreationDate="2023-02-06T15:46:08.877" Score="1" ViewCount="2307" Body="&lt;p&gt;I spent way too much time trying to get webcam working with Octoprint. Since my webcam is not supported by &lt;code&gt;mjpegstream&lt;/code&gt; and similar streamers, I had to use &lt;a href=&quot;https://motion-project.github.io/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Motion&lt;/a&gt;. Finding the URL for the video stream was quite fast, but it seems no-one in the world except for the Motion's author themselves knows the URL for the stills for timelapse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All the attempts in several places of the net canter around trying to connect to &lt;code&gt;http://octopi.local:8080/0/action/snapshot&lt;/code&gt; which correctly produces a still jpg of the camera, places it in &lt;code&gt;/var/lib/motion&lt;/code&gt; and returns a confirmation that the image was produced to web UI, with no image itself in sight. There are workarounds - python scripts, cgi for webserver, and so on. No-one seems to have found Motion's URL that would return a still jpg.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2206" LastActivityDate="2023-08-08T09:54:22.210" Title="How to set up Octoprint with Motion as camera streaming service?" Tags="|octoprint|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20552" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20551" CreationDate="2023-02-06T15:52:54.663" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;For camera 0, if the hostname of your Octopi is &lt;code&gt;octopi.local&lt;/code&gt; the default stream URI is &lt;code&gt;http://octopi.local:8081/&lt;/code&gt;  (or whatever address your Octopi has). If you use a higher-number camera, use &lt;code&gt;8081+cam number&lt;/code&gt; as the port.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The snapshot uri for camera 0 is &lt;code&gt;http://octopi.local:8081/0/current&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you use camera numbered higher, use whatever camera number you use in place of this &lt;code&gt;0&lt;/code&gt; in the URL. It's especially tricky because literally every &amp;quot;special&amp;quot; URI of this format sits on 8080, the control port. This one is attached to the port of the first camera stream, regardless of which camera number you want.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/m7hYd.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/m7hYd.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;screenshot of Octopi webcam settings&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2206" LastEditorUserId="2206" LastEditDate="2023-08-08T09:54:22.210" LastActivityDate="2023-08-08T09:54:22.210" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20553" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-02-06T16:14:14.973" Score="0" ViewCount="403" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm new to 3D printing but got myself an Ender 3 S1 Pro but have been trying to get anything to print for the last week now. I'm pulling out my hair!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I start a print, a strip of plastic will be put down to clear the nozzle without any stringing or problems but when the main print starts it will string, not adhere properly, come loose, and fail. I have tried everything; the bed is leveled using a piece of paper on all four corners I believe the nozzle is set to the correct height. (with iterations +/-0.3 mm) not changing the flow seems to be correct but if the print doesn't stick to the nozzle, it doesn't adhere to the print bed and comes loose. I have also tried printing with combinations of higher temps and lower speeds but can't get anything to work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone have any tips?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37168" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2023-02-08T12:04:09.830" LastActivityDate="2023-02-08T12:04:09.830" Title="Can't get anything to print Ender 3 S1 Pro" Tags="|creality-ender-3|bed-leveling|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20554" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20510" CreationDate="2023-02-06T16:46:43.633" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Thanks for the answers. In this special case the printer had a hardware-defect,so I had to send it back.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know which part in detail was defect but the hotend was switched off in the middle of the print, so either the hotend or something at the mainboard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37039" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2023-02-18T20:59:19.320" LastActivityDate="2023-02-18T20:59:19.320" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20555" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-02-06T19:13:51.830" Score="1" ViewCount="496" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently run into some problems with my FEP on my Anycubic Mono X, but not in terms of failing off the prints, but rather in the really short lifespan of the sheet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It frequently wears out and leaves clear dents of the prints behind, like in the photo.&#xA;The problem I mentioned repeated itself 3 times straight and happened similarly to one another.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first prints are really nice and clear, but after some (2-3!) prints, the FEP is starting to get some dents from the previous prints.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The models I print after getting a light skin over them, which affects the quality and clearance of the prints and couldn't be washed away easily (even with a standard hand wash and/or a wash station).&#xA;Only with rubbing under hot water/IPA, but that's only possible with the larger surface models.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That wouldn't be much of a problem if the FEP were used to 20-30 prints like it is suggested, but in my case, the FEP gets useless after only 4-6 prints!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As the build plate gets cleaned too, I leveled it frequently after the instructions. Also, the lift speeds were different on the 3 FEP sheets I put on (at 240, 180, ~60 mm/min)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/x68Ci.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Photo of an FEP sheet after few prints&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/x68Ci.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Photo of an FEP sheet after few prints&quot; title=&quot;Photo of an FEP sheet after few prints&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37170" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2023-02-06T20:14:13.687" LastActivityDate="2023-02-08T19:14:16.720" Title="The FEP bend/wears out/scratching after 4-6 prints" Tags="|resin|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20556" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20470" CreationDate="2023-02-08T17:02:02.800" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Thank you for all the suggestions.&#xA;My problem ended up being that the filament tube was loose (not screwed in all the way) into the extruder head. Eventually, the printer started giving me errors about irregular printhead readings and to check it. The print head was loose so I took the whole thing apart and put it back together tightly. My next print was perfect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36901" LastActivityDate="2023-02-08T17:02:02.800" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20557" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-02-08T19:09:45.083" Score="0" ViewCount="63" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been reading the Klipper docs and currently, I am trying to attain a theory on why my T8 leadscrew is not moving the Z-axis gantry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I used to have a &amp;quot;T7&amp;quot; or 7 mm rod that my gantry was handled by at the time...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Since the &amp;quot;upgrade,&amp;quot; I have noticed that my gantry does not move.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I have a cartesian style printer w/ T8 leadscrew for the gantry/Z-axis movement.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Since the upgrade, I have also noticed a slight hum that has been resolved w/ &lt;code&gt;rotation_distance&lt;/code&gt; from the klipper docs.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I erased my config, had to start over, and have a new OS.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The motors for X and Y move just fine, i.e. exactly like they are supposed to move.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;[probe]&#xA;pin: ar100:PH4&#xA;x_offset: 0.0&#xA;y_offset: 0.0&#xA;z_offset: 1.1&#xA;speed: 3&#xA;lift_speed: 6&#xA;&#xA;[stepper_z]&#xA;step_pin: ar100:PL6&#xA;dir_pin: ar100:PE10&#xA;endstop_pin: probe:z_virtual_endstop&#xA;rotation_distance: 8&#xA;microsteps: 16&#xA;position_min: 0&#xA;position_max: 152.0&#xA;homing_speed: 8.0&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the above snippet, this is part of my main config reference, I have a &lt;code&gt;[probe]&lt;/code&gt; and this &lt;code&gt;[probe]&lt;/code&gt; has &lt;code&gt;speed&lt;/code&gt; and &lt;code&gt;lift_speed&lt;/code&gt; which require specific options.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My notes are gone. I cannot calculate lift speed any longer due to lack of instruction and I am thinking, from what I can remember, &lt;code&gt;speed&lt;/code&gt; is traversing the XY plane.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1631" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2023-02-08T20:11:16.480" LastActivityDate="2024-03-13T16:07:50.980" Title="Finding specifics on generic motors; probably 200 steps per revolution" Tags="|z-axis|klipper|linux|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20558" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20555" CreationDate="2023-02-08T19:14:16.720" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an Elegoo Saturn, so my experience may be slightly different. I don't think that the lift or exposure settings will have an effect like you are suggesting, so you can probably ignore them as a red herring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first thing that I would do would be home the Z axis. It may be that it's trying to push the build plate past where your FEP is, rather than pushing against it and stopping. You may also want to double check your leveling method, you may be unwittingly doing something wrong. Though I think that this is the least likely of the two options.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next I would check your slicer settings. I had problems with a skin forming on some of my prints and I eventually traced it back to two things.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One was me having supported several models individually and then combined the files together file that was corrupt but still printed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other was sometimes Chitubox would corrupt the raft at the bottom of the print. I noticed that if I zoomed in on the raft some parts of it would seem to overlap with each other or pass through each other. This also generated a skin when printing. I solved this by reducing or increasing the size of the raft so that different parts wouldn't intersect with each other (Some of my prints have really complicated outlines).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also notice that you have some scuffing on your FEP, probably from cleaning, are you using paper towels to clean your FEP?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was advised to stop using paper towels and instead to use either a microfiber cloth or to pour about 1mm of resin in the vat and then to use the auto clean function to solidify it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="29097" LastActivityDate="2023-02-08T19:14:16.720" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20561" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19890" CreationDate="2023-02-09T12:31:45.650" Score="1" Body="&lt;h2&gt;low-spots in the bed&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the bed is lower in some areas, the line is not squished there and more rounded. As a result, a line appears to be &amp;quot;under extruded&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;High-spots in the bed&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In other areas, the bed might be too high and block the nozzle - the line looks under extruded because it is too thin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Uneven filament&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When filament is uneven and below nominal diameter, those areas create a real under extrusion in the area when that area is fed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastActivityDate="2023-02-09T12:31:45.650" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20562" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20484" CreationDate="2023-02-10T12:44:15.150" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have the same idea on the same board, but I think to stay with the DIR/STEP mode first.&#xA;The CLK is useless for the DIR/STEP mode, then I suppose that it is useful for UART mode.&#xA;But this datasheet is very strange, often there is Rx and Tx UART close to STEP pin&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XOLQC.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XOLQC.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;STM2209 wiring&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I read the Bigtreetech documentation from your link, only one wire is used for the UART (Rx/Tx). This is strange, or it is to be compatible with other driver and the CLK is useless.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I never used the TMC2209 with the uart, only in STEP/DIR mode and directly drove with a Raspberry Pico.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37219" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2023-03-13T08:16:39.807" LastActivityDate="2023-03-13T08:16:39.807" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20563" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20991" CreationDate="2023-02-10T20:32:06.823" Score="1" ViewCount="225" Body="&lt;p&gt;I made a successful print before this incident with my Ender 3 S1 running Klipper firmware. After that print, it started not extruding. Well, the motor started wiggling back and forth rapidly. After the prime line, it stopped completely. I thought it might be a problem with Klipper, so I switched back to stock firmware and used a different slicer too. But it is still there. I uploaded a video of it to YouTube:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://youtube.com/shorts/q-ZLMg6NHng&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://youtube.com/shorts/q-ZLMg6NHng&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36652" LastEditorUserId="36652" LastEditDate="2023-02-11T12:03:24.787" LastActivityDate="2023-05-24T17:12:11.583" Title="Extruder motor wiggling" Tags="|creality-ender-3|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20564" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-02-10T23:21:56.223" Score="1" ViewCount="322" Body="&lt;p&gt;I installed a Sprite direct drive extruder everything went together fine but it would give a mintemp error code and say to restart. After I checked all the wiring again and restarted it 10 times no change. So I replaced the temperature sensor, no change. It still wasn't even reading room temp.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I went thru and unplugged each connection and put it right back thinking maybe a bad connection. I restarted the printer again and now it goes to the boot screen and stays there no line going across or anything. I don't know what to try next any help would be appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37226" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2023-02-10T23:36:48.890" LastActivityDate="2023-02-10T23:36:48.890" Title="Ender 3 v2 won't boot up after installing Sprite extruder" Tags="|troubleshooting|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20566" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11684" CreationDate="2023-02-11T19:56:15.837" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This has been changed in newer builds of Marlin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Previous code:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;// X and Y axis travel speed (mm/m) between probes&#xA;&#xA;#define XY_PROBE_SPEED 8000&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Current code:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;// X and Y axis travel speed (mm/min) between probes&#xA;&#xA;#define XY_PROBE_FEEDRATE (200*60) //define feedrate as a multiple of 60.&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37236" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2023-02-11T22:51:38.630" LastActivityDate="2023-02-11T22:51:38.630" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20568" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19089" CreationDate="2023-02-12T08:06:27.517" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;This post was the only place on the internet, that described the issue I was having, and it was very frustrating that it was unanswered. I know this thread is old, but just in case someone else wants to know the answer to this in the future, here it is...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;He asked about unified or bilinear for bed leveling, just wanted to let you know, after going thru the source code for the CR10, I can confirm that they are using bilinear leveling if that helps anyone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had the same issue and took me a very long time to get past it. I had installed a new motherboard, and on boot up, I am getting the same, cant level due to must home XYZ first, when homing XYZ first everything reboots. Well not really, will get into that in a minute.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, I should mention that due to the lack of features on the CR10, I use Octoprint as a front end, for my CR10 Smart Pro, and I do not have an LCD hooked up to it &lt;em&gt;(it got fried while replacing the motherboard)&lt;/em&gt;, it's possible the stock LCD firmware has some code that gets around this loop, or better yet it just ignores the invalid mesh error, as you will see below, that is what we need to get past this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;He says he runs &lt;code&gt;G28&lt;/code&gt;, but gets an invalid mesh error, then the printer reboots. Sounds the same, to me, but my printer is not rebooting, what is happening here is Octoprint is closing the serial connection to the CR10. Octoprint has a bad habit of doing this on &lt;strong&gt;any&lt;/strong&gt; error that is echoed in the console.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ok, so on any &lt;strong&gt;error&lt;/strong&gt;, Octoprint disconnects from the printer, what we all need to understand here, is this: neither the CR10 nor Octoprint reboots when this happens. Octoprint disconnects from the printer due to an error being echoed in the serial console, and the CR10 takes no action and is now just sitting there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on your PC, or Pi hardware, you can just reconnect to the printer by selecting connect again from Octoprint, now this doesn't always work, and you might have to reboot the PC or Pi that is running Octoprint. After reboot, you should be able to reconnect and this is all without the CR10 rebooting at all unless you're also rebooting it along with the Pi or PC. &amp;lt;-- &lt;strong&gt;Don't do that!!&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as the CR10 Smart Pro knows, the last thing you tried was a &lt;code&gt;G28&lt;/code&gt; command, it then homed the printer. After homing, it tried to turn on bed leveling, causing it to report an invalid mesh error, but that is all it did. What's important is that it did home and unless you reboot it or let it timeout, that home is still valid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I believe at this point you can run &lt;code&gt;G29&lt;/code&gt;, and it will do the auto level, creating a new mesh that can be saved with &lt;code&gt;M500&lt;/code&gt; after it completes. I say believe because I have no way to test that now because I did something a little different to fix mine to get rid of the invalid mesh message.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I ran &lt;code&gt;G28 L0&lt;/code&gt;, that command is supposed to do a normal auto home, but not enable bed leveling at the end. We don't want to try turning it on, because that is what kicks off the mesh error because there is no mesh yet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First off, I used Pronterface instead of Octoprint, due to the error above, but don't think you really need to use it, but just wanted to put it out there; I did not do this from Octoprint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First I tried this, with debug turned on&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;    &amp;gt;&amp;gt;&amp;gt; G29&#xA;    SENDING:G29&#xA;    echo:G29&#xA;    echo:Home XYZ First&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So then tried to home it, and this happens, basically the root of the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;    &amp;gt;&amp;gt;&amp;gt; G28&#xA;    SENDING:G28&#xA;    echo:G28&#xA;    echo:Invalid mesh.&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After reading the Marlin G-code docs on &lt;code&gt;G28&lt;/code&gt;, I found the &lt;code&gt;L0&lt;/code&gt; option. It is supposed to turn off bed leveling, at the end of homing, instead of the default turning it on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;    &amp;gt;&amp;gt;&amp;gt; G28 L0 &#xA;    SENDING:G28 L0&#xA;    echo:G28 L0&#xA;    echo:Invalid mesh.&#xA;    Error:Failed to enable Bed Leveling&#xA;    Error:Failed to enable Bed Leveling&#xA;    &#xA;    echo:Bed Leveling OFF&#xA;    echo:Fade Height OFF&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you can see, it still gives an invalid mesh error. This is where people using Octoprint will be disconnected, causing them to reboot everything to get back in, and if they reboot their printer, well, then the last home command means nothing then.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However with Pronterface it does not disconnect, so I issued this right after...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;    &amp;gt;&amp;gt;&amp;gt; G29&#xA;    SENDING:G29&#xA;    echo:G29&#xA;    Bilinear Leveling Grid:&#xA;          0      1      2      3      4&#xA;     0 +0.106 +0.114 +0.094 +0.039 -0.047&#xA;     1 +0.025 +0.056 +0.063 +0.043 +0.036&#xA;     2 -0.160 -0.040 +0.035 +0.074 +0.111&#xA;     3 -0.237 -0.117 -0.007 +0.078 +0.171&#xA;     4 -0.384 -0.257 -0.144 -0.034 +0.094&#xA;    Subdivided with CATMULL ROM Leveling Grid:&#xA;            0        1        2        3        4        5        6        7        8        9       10       11       12&#xA;     0 +0.10650 +0.11002 +0.11354 +0.11400 +0.11067 +0.10428 +0.09400 +0.07941 +0.06093 +0.03900 +0.01263 -0.01719  =======&#xA;     1 +0.08337 +0.08846 +0.09354 +0.09587 +0.09479 +0.09096 +0.08356 +0.07163 +0.05613 +0.03913 +0.02082 +0.00100  =======&#xA;     2 +0.06024 +0.06689 +0.07355 +0.07774 +0.07892 +0.07764 +0.07311 +0.06384 +0.05133 +0.03926 +0.02900 +0.01919  =======&#xA;     3 +0.02550 +0.03633 +0.04717 +0.05550 +0.06070 +0.06341 +0.06300 +0.05770 +0.04930 +0.04250 +0.03943 +0.03796  =======&#xA;     4 -0.03259 -0.01203 +0.00853 +0.02574 +0.03850 +0.04792 +0.05398 +0.05509 +0.05284 +0.05196 +0.05451 +0.05843  =======&#xA;     5 -0.10230 -0.06940 -0.03650 -0.00813 +0.01396 +0.03153 +0.04530 +0.05412 +0.05914 +0.06454 +0.07182 +0.07949  =======&#xA;     6 -0.16000 -0.11833 -0.07667 -0.04000 -0.01033 +0.01433 +0.03500 +0.05076 +0.06252 +0.07400 +0.08635 +0.09843  =======&#xA;     7 -0.19126 -0.14779 -0.10432 -0.06487 -0.03085 -0.00084 +0.02537 +0.04663 +0.06409 +0.08148 +0.10001 +0.11847  =======&#xA;     8 -0.21052 -0.16882 -0.12712 -0.08774 -0.05112 -0.01682 +0.01413 +0.04011 +0.06274 +0.08585 +0.11088 +0.13640  =======&#xA;     9 -0.23750 -0.19713 -0.15676 -0.11750 -0.07917 -0.04194 -0.00750 +0.02235 +0.04943 +0.07750 +0.10817 +0.13983 +0.17150&#xA;    10 -0.28135 -0.24039 -0.19943 -0.15941 -0.12026 -0.08205 -0.04591 -0.01335 +0.01715 +0.04898 +0.08374 +0.11983 +0.15593&#xA;    11 -0.33293 -0.29094 -0.24895 -0.20820 -0.16913 -0.13130 -0.09470 -0.06028 -0.02709 +0.00774 +0.04572 +0.08534 +0.12496&#xA;    12 -0.38450 -0.34148 -0.29846 -0.25700 -0.21800 -0.18056 -0.14350 -0.10722 -0.07133 -0.03350 +0.00770 +0.05085 +0.09400&#xA;    echo:Settings Stored (724 bytes; crc 46126)&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37243" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2023-02-12T14:16:49.033" LastActivityDate="2023-02-12T14:16:49.033" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20569" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20563" CreationDate="2023-02-12T13:37:38.260" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It looks like your extruder stepper is not sequenced correctly. There are a number of possible causes of this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically, the stepper has four (?) poles that must be sequenced in order to make it turn.  If you sequence them out of order, it will go back and forth instead of turning in one direction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The causes for this could be any of:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The poles are connected to the controller in the wrong order&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;One or more of the drivers on the controller is burned out and is being effectively skipped&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The voltage on the controller is too low for the force being applied to the shaft output, causing the motor to jam and steps to be skipped&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For an extruder, usually the output shaft is geared down, making the third possibility very unlikely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28397" LastActivityDate="2023-02-12T13:37:38.260" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20570" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-02-13T01:01:40.950" Score="0" ViewCount="144" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am making homebrew electronic items and I'm using this OLED, a 0.96&amp;quot; SSD1306 Module; very common in the Arduino world:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3pj11.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Photo of OLED screen&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3pj11.png&quot; alt=&quot;Photo of OLED screen&quot; title=&quot;Photo of OLED screen&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If someone were making a commercial device with this and designing a case, how would they mount this? We obviously see the 4 screw holes at the corners, but if you looked at this device from the side, you'll notice the glass is only about 1.2 mm proud of the PCB. In addition, if you solder headers to the 4 terminals, which is the common use, the end of the headers are actually flush with the glass.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should the screws be coming through the case from the outside, through the PCB holes, with a nut on the other side? Would the glass normally be covered with acrylic rather than flush with the outside of the case?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So what's typical in this situation? This is a 3D-printed enclosure, so I'm also limited by that aspect of the design.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="35664" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2023-02-14T13:54:28.683" LastActivityDate="2023-02-14T13:54:28.683" Title="How would this OLED be mounted if in a commercial device?" Tags="|3d-design|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20571" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20557" CreationDate="2023-02-13T10:50:37.643" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Klipper documentation and configurations were not at fault as I figured.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I went through the documentation, set up instances of different configuration options, and readjusted &lt;code&gt;printer.cfg&lt;/code&gt; options.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway, it turns out the lead screw was faulty and bent. Calculating Klipper configurations will NOT prove useful with a bent lead screw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, because of the rotation of the lead screw per one turn, I had to adjust the &lt;code&gt;rotation_distance&lt;/code&gt; in the &lt;code&gt;printer.cfg&lt;/code&gt; file.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also...rotation_distance for XY, Z, and E all need separate-real values that are configured and this set of examples can be found in many places online like w/ the Klipper docs, &lt;a href=&quot;https://all3dp.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://all3dp.com/&lt;/a&gt;, and the reprap wiki.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1631" LastEditorUserId="1631" LastEditDate="2023-02-17T12:14:02.890" LastActivityDate="2023-02-17T12:14:02.890" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20572" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-02-13T12:05:50.840" Score="1" ViewCount="54" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an Ender 3 V2 pro with the Quinly bed adhered to the aluminium bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a hard time getting my prints to stick well. (PLA as well as PETG). We finally found out that only increasing the bed temperature a lot helps a little. Only the edges have a very bad adhesion and even terrible warp.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are measurements from an infrared thermometer:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ux57D.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ux57D.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;temp in °C in different measurements&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I kept the orientation and distance constant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Is it normal that the temperature has such differences across the bed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If not: What could be the cause?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;And: How can this be solved?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4708" LastEditorUserId="4708" LastEditDate="2023-02-16T11:04:56.840" LastActivityDate="2023-02-16T11:04:56.840" Title="Is it normal that my heated bed has up to 25 °C difference from center to edge?" Tags="|temperature|bed|ender3|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20573" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-02-13T18:23:55.857" Score="1" ViewCount="47" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am using a Cobra Max to print PLA. I am trying to print a computer / tablet case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are some &amp;quot;defects&amp;quot; in it which look like the print head dragged something.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zns3O.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zns3O.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have used a magnification lense to inspect what is going on.&#xA;It was hard to take a photo of it, but you can still see that all lines are diagonal (which gives an even appearance), but then there is one &amp;quot;drag&amp;quot; line. It looks like the print head went to a new position and melted the lines it met on its way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That line is not raised.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do I get rid of that?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ztnpB.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ztnpB.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here I have drawn lines to indicate what is regular and what causes the irregular look (a line).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xcRew.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xcRew.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="35280" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2023-02-13T22:09:54.820" LastActivityDate="2023-02-13T22:09:54.820" Title="What are these effects caused by? And can I get rid of them?" Tags="|print-quality|pla|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20574" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20573" CreationDate="2023-02-13T21:54:23.967" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are you using Cura? If so, this is almost surely &lt;em&gt;combing&lt;/em&gt;, where it performs travel moves across already-printed material without retracting in order to avoid the time cost of retraction and work around problems some low-quality and poorly-tuned printers have with large numbers of retractions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To avoid marring surfaces like this with combing, either find the &amp;quot;Combing Mode&amp;quot; setting and switch it from &amp;quot;All&amp;quot; to &amp;quot;Not in Skin&amp;quot; or &amp;quot;Within Infill&amp;quot;, or leave it on &amp;quot;All&amp;quot; but set &amp;quot;Max Comb Distance With No Retract&amp;quot; to around 1 mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're not using Cura, if combing is already off, or the above does not help, it's possible that you have sufficient overextrusion that the surface is bulging up above the nominal layer height, so that even an unretracted move over it digs through material. In this case you'd need to tune extrusion so as not to over-extrude.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some people might also suggest Z-hop as a solution to your problem, and indeed it may help, but it usually introduces bad stringing that's hard to get rid of, so I would not try it except perhaps as a last resort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2023-02-13T21:54:23.967" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20575" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20614" CreationDate="2023-02-14T01:52:43.267" Score="1" ViewCount="144" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use a procedural 3D animation package (SideFX Houdini) for my 3D object design.  After exporting my design to STL then importing to PrusaSlicer, I manually place modifier objects to adjust the infill percent on certain areas.  I'd like the ability to procedurally designate the infill percentage in certain areas in my design.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a way to flag an object in STL/3MF/Other file format so it's interpreted as an infill adjustment modifier in PrusaSlicer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37265" LastActivityDate="2023-02-23T21:21:18.787" Title="Define PrusaSlicer infill modifiers in STL/3MF?" Tags="|3d-design|stl|infill|prusaslicer|cad|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20576" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20570" CreationDate="2023-02-14T06:01:55.237" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I printed the case for my Arduino test setup, I used the screen measurements for the opening. Then I added stand-offs for the screw holes to rest on so that the glass was against the wall. I gently filed the solder flush to just below the plane of the glass. I used 2 mm by 3 mm screws to attach it. Make sure your wall thickness is enough so the screw doesn't penetrate, just for appearance. I will check my CAD file to try to get you the measurements if you like. I hope this helped some.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37266" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2023-02-14T13:51:17.603" LastActivityDate="2023-02-14T13:51:17.603" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20577" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20579" CreationDate="2023-02-14T14:21:49.730" Score="0" ViewCount="440" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm playing with the QiDi Print software to compare the slicing results with mine (Dremel 3D45). One of the reasons I'm going to buy it is the printing in parallel using the two nozzles:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IbFCA.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IbFCA.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I'm not able to set up the slicer correctly. As an example I set both extruders with the same PLA. I did the following steps:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;load the objects (two instances of the same or even two different objects)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;select the left one and press &amp;quot;print with extruder 2&amp;quot;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;select the right one and press &amp;quot;print with extruder 1&amp;quot;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;in the slicer parameters window, if I try to set the extruder for build plate adhesion it is set for &lt;em&gt;both&lt;/em&gt; extruders:&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OlVop.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OlVop.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/A2bJI.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/A2bJI.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I cannot set Extruder 1 for object printed with extruder 1 and the same for the other.&#xA;Hence I tried to select one object to enable the &amp;quot;per model settings&amp;quot;. But, looking at the settings to customize, the Dual extrusion panel shows nothing:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gMEIl.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gMEIl.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I enabled the visibility of &lt;em&gt;all&lt;/em&gt; settings.&#xA;In any case, trying to slice with these settings, it add a weird wall around all the objects:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zFC1o.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zFC1o.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I never seen such a wall and I don't understand why is there and how to avoid it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, how to set up the slicer in order to print two objects in parallel?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21979" LastEditorUserId="21979" LastEditDate="2023-02-14T14:42:41.753" LastActivityDate="2023-02-14T16:53:40.933" Title="QiDi i-Fast print in parallel" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|slicing|dual-nozzle|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20578" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-02-14T15:08:09.887" Score="0" ViewCount="570" Body="&lt;p&gt;I got myself an Ender 3 S1 printer a couple of days ago and I tried printing the following &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2050885&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;headset stand&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The printing is still in progress. The top doesn't look too bad (unless you know how it could get better).&#xA;The problem is the &amp;quot;round bottom&amp;quot; part. The layers are really messy and looks like melted (see pictures below).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/deSbz.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/deSbz.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Top View&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XUHPW.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XUHPW.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Bottom view&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried multiple configurations with Cura and Creality Slicer. The best result, up to now, where with the following settings in Cura (it is worst with default profiles in Creality Slicer):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Eryone PLA+&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Layer height: 0.12 mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Initial Layer height: 0.16 mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Initial Layer speed: 15 mm/s&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Print speed: 60 mm/s&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wall speed: 30 mm/s&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Travel speed: 110 mm/s&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Initial Bed temp (otherwise there is not enough adhesion): 70 °C&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Print Bed temp: 60 °C&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Nozzle temp: 195 °C (tried with 200 and 210, 195 gives the best result so far)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Retraction distance: 0.8 mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Retraction speed: 45 mm/s&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Adhesion: Brim 3 mm (cannot be bigger because of the size of the model)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Doed someone know what caused this and how to prevent it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37274" LastEditorUserId="37274" LastEditDate="2023-02-14T18:32:48.117" LastActivityDate="2023-02-15T20:38:17.600" Title="Ender 3 S1 printing issue - round bottom" Tags="|print-quality|troubleshooting|heated-bed|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20579" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20577" CreationDate="2023-02-14T16:53:40.933" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/f4RV4.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/f4RV4.png&quot; alt=&quot;ooze shield setting&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The question regarding the wall is covered in the advanced settings for Additions. In the screen capture above, you can see that it is turned on. Ostensibly, it's used to scrub off the previous filament oozing as it sits idle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't have an i-fast and cannot identify the setting you require for duplication printing. Terminology is tricky; my IDEX printer slicer calls it duplication printing and mirror printing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As an aside, you should have a contact email for QIDI tech support. My experience with the email system is next-day response.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastActivityDate="2023-02-14T16:53:40.933" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20581" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-02-15T17:58:52.247" Score="1" ViewCount="665" Body="&lt;p&gt;So the base model isn't mine, I just added hair and stuff. I'm new to Blender and 3D printing so bear with me, please.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So this is the model before slicing:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/18gMq.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Screenshot of a 3D model in Cura&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/18gMq.png&quot; alt=&quot;Screenshot of a 3D model in Cura&quot; title=&quot;Screenshot of a 3D model in Cura&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And this is after:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0gJO6.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Screenshot of a Cura's Preview of a 3D model&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0gJO6.png&quot; alt=&quot;Screenshot of a Cura's Preview of a 3D model&quot; title=&quot;Screenshot of a Cura's Preview of a 3D model&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried changing the size of the model, supports, and quality but nothing makes a difference. So I check the model on Blender and see the eye plate is thin and the head is hollow:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/t95wL.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Screenshot of 3D model in Blender&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/t95wL.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Screenshot of 3D model in Blender&quot; title=&quot;Screenshot of 3D model in Blender&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Pulfj.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Screenshot of the same 3D model in Blender with modifications&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Pulfj.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Screenshot of the same 3D model in Blender with modifications&quot; title=&quot;Screenshot of the same 3D model in Blender with modifications&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I thought that might be the problem. So I tried to replace the thin eye plate with a ball (I don't like how it looks at all but I have no idea what else to do) But then I encounter this problem from slicing:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/k6ogA.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Screenshot of a Cura's Preview of the 3D model but with parts missing&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/k6ogA.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Screenshot of a Cura's Preview of the 3D model but with parts missing&quot; title=&quot;Screenshot of a Cura's Preview of the 3D model but with parts missing&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've run out of ideas as I just don't have enough experience or knowledge with Blender etc. I'd really love to be able to print it with the original eyes if possible, and honestly don't really see why it'd be an issue printing as is anyway since the printer fills the insides and has plenty of support, right?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37287" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2023-02-15T20:46:27.383" LastActivityDate="2024-03-11T23:04:45.523" Title="Cura deleting parts of model" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20582" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20578" CreationDate="2023-02-15T19:46:22.457" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;So it ended up being a combination of multiple things.&#xA;To obtain the proper settings in the slicer, I started with the &amp;quot;standard&amp;quot; Ender S1 preset in Creality Slicer and then I changed the profile one at a time (from standard to super quality) doing small adjustments for each of the profiles.&#xA;I was then able to get an &amp;quot;OK&amp;quot; print of the 3DBenchy with the following settings:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;0.12 mm Layer height&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;0.2 mm Initial Layer height (instead of 0.16 mm)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Nozzle temp: 195 °C&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bed temp: 60 °C (instead of 70 °C - I can use 60 °C because of the 0.2 mm initial layer height)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Retraction 1 mm - 40 mm/s&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I then imported the profile into Cura, which has a bit more options.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37274" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2023-02-15T20:38:17.600" LastActivityDate="2023-02-15T20:38:17.600" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20583" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20581" CreationDate="2023-02-15T20:02:02.233" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I figured it out so thought I'd share it with anyone with a similar problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I used the solidify mod on the eye plate and made it thicker. Then it appeared fine when slicing but the head had a similar problem as my last photo. So, with a joined sphere inside, I did the same thing (solidify and make it thicker), and now it's perfect! :) Hope that helps someone!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37287" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2023-02-15T20:40:40.187" LastActivityDate="2023-02-15T20:40:40.187" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20585" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-02-16T07:23:09.500" Score="1" ViewCount="104" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just finished flashing Marlin 2.1.2 on my Ender 3 V2 printer. I had some difficulty flashing the screen from my SD card, but once I formatted the card to 4096 FAT32 and added the both Marlin &lt;code&gt;...Creality/Ender-3/CrealityV422/LCD/private&lt;/code&gt; and &lt;code&gt;...Creality/Ender-3/CrealityV422/DWIN_SET&lt;/code&gt; directories to it, it worked.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now however, I see that the numbers are updating and displaying over each other. In the picture below, the nozzle temp is 22 stacked on a 20. When it rises, it'll show all 3 temps on the same space. The bottom row are the default question-marks stacked on the x/y/z coordinates.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LhHAx.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LhHAx.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the compilation, I used PlatformIO. I basically followed this video exactly: &lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/7i7PnBZ6cnM?start=287&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main difference being I stopped the tutorial after setting the LCD controller at ProUI, since it was my preferred build.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://ufile.io/3a4v7ak3&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Here is a link to my configuration files and my bin file&lt;/a&gt;, in case anyone alse wants to reproduce this locally.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37292" LastActivityDate="2023-02-16T07:23:09.500" Title="Printer temps are displaying on top of each other on Ender 3 v2 running Marlin 2.1.2" Tags="|marlin|firmware|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20587" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20513" CreationDate="2023-02-17T08:40:59.933" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;To install Blender go to Blender.org and download the version for your platform.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No need to install just extract and run &amp;quot;Blender&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;to enable importing stl files go to edit -&amp;gt; preferences&lt;br&gt;&#xA;in the addons tab search for stl, check the box.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zCAxh.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zCAxh.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now import your stl:&#xA;File -&amp;gt; Import -&amp;gt; STL(.stl)(experimental)&lt;br&gt;&#xA;and select your file&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may need to zoom out quite a bit because of the scale.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Do this with the mouse wheel, while the pointer is over the view where the part is. Or with View -&amp;gt; frame all&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oUlg7.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oUlg7.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the part is not selected (it has no orange outline) select it by clicking on it.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;And go into &amp;quot;edit mode&amp;quot; by hitting TAB&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now rotate the model so you can see the bottom plane.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Hold the middle mouse button and drag.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;If all vertices are selected when you open the model, hit &amp;quot;a&amp;quot; twice quickly to deselect all.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Select the bottom vertices by shift clicking them.&lt;br&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now comes the actual conical scaling&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Activate &amp;quot;proportional editing&amp;quot; By hitting &amp;quot;o&amp;quot; or clicking the icon, and select linear in the drop-down menu.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GXsaF.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GXsaF.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Scale by hitting &amp;quot;s&amp;quot; and moving the mouse but do not click yet&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hiWJj.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hiWJj.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;Now hit &amp;quot;Shift z&amp;quot; This will constrain scaling to the xy plane.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;You will see a circle that indicates the region of influence of the proportional edit. Adjust it to your linking with the mouse wheel, and click to confirm. Or if you want a precise ratio type for instance 0.8 and hit enter to confirm.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Kwc89.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Kwc89.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;TAB to exit edit mode.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Check that only your object is selected. If other objects are orange, hit &amp;quot;a&amp;quot; twice to deselect all and select your object bay clicking.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;And finally File -&amp;gt; Export -&amp;gt; STL&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Give it a different name than the original check &amp;quot;Selection Only&amp;quot; and &amp;quot;Export stl&amp;quot;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mjDQ3.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mjDQ3.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4406" LastActivityDate="2023-02-17T08:40:59.933" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20588" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-02-17T09:58:56.443" Score="0" ViewCount="190" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to print this item with as few supports as possible due to difficulties with removing the supports afterward in very small places. I set the support angle to be at 70° since that covers the area which was a problem before. When the printer starts, however, it stops right at the first layer, 2-3 seconds into printing, and then complains of a power crash. I tested it out and it's not happening on other prints, just on this one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any suggestions on why is it stopping and how I could print it with minimal supports?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The issue I had was that the supports that were inside the moving parts ended up being printed as strong as the actual infill and I can't remove it now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nFmek.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Screenshot of a 3D model in Cura's Preview&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nFmek.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Screenshot of a 3D model in Cura's Preview&quot; title=&quot;Screenshot of a 3D model in Cura's Preview&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37307" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2023-02-17T19:17:26.130" LastActivityDate="2023-02-17T21:52:18.910" Title="Printing with minimal supports" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20589" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-02-17T14:21:00.127" Score="1" ViewCount="187" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Lulzbot TAZ 5, and the hotend is broken. Is there any way for me to replace the hotend without replacing the extruder motor and all surrounding parts?&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/m5JRy.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/m5JRy.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37313" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2023-02-21T08:33:53.627" LastActivityDate="2023-11-07T15:35:24.367" Title="Replacing hotend without replacing extruder assembly?" Tags="|lulzbot|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20590" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-02-17T16:28:29.297" Score="2" ViewCount="208" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Creality Ender 3 v2 3D printer and I recently had trouble while printing.&#xA;After some investigations, I found that a piece from the initial plastic extruder was broken (the lever with the roller). I then replaced the whole extruder with the official Creality metal one:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6YNZa.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Photo of the Creality metal extruder&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6YNZa.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Photo of the Creality metal extruder&quot; title=&quot;Photo of the Creality metal extruder&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;My problem:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;I tried to calibrate E-steps correctly:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Disconnect the PTFE tube to remove the nozzle from the problem&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Marking PLA, asking for 10 cm of extrusion and seeing what's left&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The PLA filament comes out marked from the extruder (which leads me to believe that tension is enough)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The default E-step value is 93.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The initial result is 0.4 cm left (9.6 cm extruded), and I can do it twice or more, which results in the same measure.&#xA;But when I change the E-step value (to 96.9 in this case), I have more than 10 cm extruded. Reducing it to 95 for example results in more than 0.4 cm left (~8 cm extruded).&#xA;Then, putting back the E-step value to 93 leads to a different result than initially.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This behavior first made me think of a slip, but it is not apparent, and will not explain the initial reproducibility of the results while not changing the value of the E-step. Moreover, the extruder is new.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;My question:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Do you have an idea of what could be wrong here?&#xA;Assembly error?&#xA;Misunderstanding of printer software? Or how to change the E-step value?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37314" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2023-02-17T19:14:38.073" LastActivityDate="2023-02-17T19:14:38.073" Title="Crealty Ender 3 v2; Impossible to calibrate extruder" Tags="|creality-ender-3|extruder|extrusion|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20591" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20592" CreationDate="2023-02-17T19:27:11.943" Score="0" ViewCount="120" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently got into 3D printing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Printer Setup&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Model: Ender-3&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Board: 4.2.2&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Firmware: Manufacture version of Marlin with BLTouch (Aug 2022 update)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Auto-level: CR-Touch&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bed Type: Stock --- Textured PEI or are they BuildTak ??&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After doing some test prints and figuring out my leveling and z-offset.&#xA;I had some print residue on the bed, where you could clearly see the first layer fails.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This morning, I decided to clean the print bed with acetone after reading several other forums and watching some reputable youtubers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After wiping the bed down with a cloth, I know have frosting on my bed.&#xA;I found this out from some other posts, but no post on how to properly clean the frosting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've added a picture, so hopefully that helps too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5QpSD.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5QpSD.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this bed surface trashed??&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37317" LastEditorUserId="37317" LastEditDate="2023-02-17T21:31:40.193" LastActivityDate="2023-02-17T21:31:40.193" Title="How to clean / remove frosting from build-surface" Tags="|build-plate|cleaning|build-surface|acetone|pei|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20592" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20591" CreationDate="2023-02-17T20:32:41.773" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Acetone should not be used for cleaning build surfaces. It attacks most plastics, probably including whatever Buildtak-clone is made of. It probably won't immediately ruin it, but it will degrade the surface texture.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The right agent for cleaning bed surfaces is IPA (isopropyl alcohol). If you have print material stuck to the bed texture from printing with the nozzle way too close to the bed, your best best for removing it is printing more of the same material on top of it, and hoping it adheres to the new print and pulls off with it. Not using aggressive solvents.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is the bed surface ruined? Probably not &lt;em&gt;ruined&lt;/em&gt;, but likely somewhat degraded. I've seen much worse though, so I'd expect it's still good for a few months of moderate use, if you take good care of it and don't keep using inappropriate cleaners or printing with the nozzle scraping the bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2023-02-17T20:32:41.773" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20593" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20588" CreationDate="2023-02-17T21:52:18.910" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your image is difficult to use to be certain of a specific answer, but a generic answer may be found in &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RPijCjz9G1w&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Angus of Maker's Muse on YouTube&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;His suggestion, which I've used with quite good results is to add primitives manually to the locations that will eliminate the need for supports. Typically, the new primitives will convert an overhang to a bridging, or will provide support with a smaller impact.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your part is not proprietary, consider to edit your question with a link to download the STL file, as it will provide a better viewpoint of the troublesome areas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As an example of Angus' solution, I added thin wall hollow cylinders to a part that contained a double counterbore. With traditional support implemented, the mass of plastic would have been nearly impossible to remove. The new primitives were sized to overlap the unsupported centers of each counterbore by only one nozzle width and were two nozzle widths thick. Picture the stereotypical archery target.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The result on printing was that the created support cylinders remained attached to the bed when the part was cleanly removed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In Angus' video, he shows the addition of a vertical panel creating a support for an orthogonal overhang, using approximately the same nozzle width reference. A thin vertical wall attached to the side of the model, extending outward to the end of the overhang, creates a bridging in place of a massive support structure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/RPijCjz9G1w?t=380&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;linked video&lt;/a&gt;, these screen captures show one extreme example that accomplishes the objective with reduced material use, time and post processing:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cWEnw.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cWEnw.png&quot; alt=&quot;before manufactured supports&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZTU4I.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZTU4I.png&quot; alt=&quot;after manufactured supports&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This method does not require &amp;quot;ground-up&amp;quot; design, as one needs only to have a resource to create primitives in an editor. PrusaSlicer provides for adding primitives, Meshmixer allows for a wide variety of features in this manner and even Tinkercad can be used to add thin rectangular prisms or cylinders as needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastActivityDate="2023-02-17T21:52:18.910" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20595" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20599" CreationDate="2023-02-19T07:24:50.197" Score="2" ViewCount="439" Body="&lt;p&gt;For the benefit of a novice friend who wants to get into 3D printing, I am following an excellent YouTube course by &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/@paulmcwhorter&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Paul McWhorter&lt;/a&gt;, on Fusion 360 (&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p4rvteV-L8s&amp;amp;list=PLGs0VKk2DiYwxUjGRWEgotTY8ipVvFsIp&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;playlist&lt;/a&gt;) which uses a Creality Ender-3 v2 to process the resulting designs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, the esteemed Mr McWhorter often refers to the &amp;quot;threaded rod&amp;quot; during the video that covers the assembly of the printer (&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_94O7IoiY40&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Fusion 360 for 3D Printing LESSON 2: Assembling the Creality Ender 3 Version 2 3D Printer&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this just a slip of the tongue, or does the Ender-3 v2 actually come with a threaded rod, and &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; a lead screw?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looking at the official dual Z-axis upgrade kit for the Ender-3 v2 on Amazon, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.amazon.co.uk/Creality-Official-Included-Ender-3S-3D/dp/B09RX4S2MF&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Creality Official Ender 3 Dual Z-Axis Upgrade Kit ( 42-34 Stepper Motor Included ) for Ender-3, Ender-3S, Ender 3 Pro, Ender 3 V2 3D Printer&lt;/a&gt;, it would seem that the kit comes with a lead screw:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gnafA.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Lead screw in the dual Z-axis upgrade kit&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gnafA.png&quot; alt=&quot;Lead screw in the dual Z-axis upgrade kit&quot; title=&quot;Lead screw in the dual Z-axis upgrade kit&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Therefore it would seem logical that the base printer also comes with a lead screw. However, I've not really been able to find a clear enough image of the printer's component parts in order to ascertain whether that is true or not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't want to recommend that my friend purchases an Ender-3 v2, only to realise that it is supplied with a threaded rod, when it arrives.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can anyone, who either owns an Ender-3 v2, or who has seen one &amp;quot;in-the-flesh&amp;quot;, confirm whether it comes with a lead screw?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, without wishing to broaden the scope of this question, do &lt;em&gt;all&lt;/em&gt; Creality printers come with lead screws? Are there any Creality printer models that do actually come with a dreaded threaded rod (which, IMHO, should be avoided, as that would require an immediate upgrade to lead screw)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: I'm not looking for a (shopping) recommendation, I just need a simple yes or no confirmation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4762" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2023-02-19T07:32:09.773" LastActivityDate="2023-02-20T17:12:27.557" Title="Does the Creality Ender-3 v2 come with a threaded rod or a lead screw?" Tags="|creality-ender-3|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20596" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20616" CreationDate="2023-02-19T09:44:51.160" Score="0" ViewCount="385" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just recieved a roll of eSUN black PLA+ and I have found out it has moisture damage after using it for 2 days. I was previously using a roll of eSUN orange PLA+ and it worked really well. So I ran a stringing test just to make sure the settings were right for the black roll and the result was terrible. So I spent a full day messing with slicer settings as moisture damage was last on my list for the issue since the roll was brand new. But with no improvement I decided to dry out a sample of filament just to try and this was the result.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iSWzb.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iSWzb.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Left is filament straight from the roll, middle is dried out filament and orange as a control. So now I  know the problem is this normal for eSUN filaments? Should I dry out filaments as soon as I take them out of the box? I didn't have this issue with my orange roll.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37334" LastEditorUserId="37334" LastEditDate="2023-02-19T09:45:32.277" LastActivityDate="2023-02-23T22:53:00.613" Title="Black eSUN PLA+ has moisture damage straight out of the box. Is this normal?" Tags="|filament|stringing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20597" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-02-19T15:04:52.847" Score="0" ViewCount="517" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm doing something special with my Ender 3 V2 Neo these days. Gotten to upgrade to the direct extruder Biqu H2 V2. Nothing is out for the Neo version yet - like adapters and such - so I have modified an Ender 3 Pro mount to make things work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Everything is now mounted and looks awesome. But, the new extruder won't extrude. I have set the Vrefs to around 1.05 V. The E-steps are set to 932 using Pronterface. I am using Marlin firmware.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My mainboard is marked with T8 and it is using the TMC2208 driver. I have checked my stepper cable and there is good connection with the main board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I took out my stepper motor cable from the Biqu and tried with the stepper motor cable from my X-axis, and then the Biqu finally started extruding when I adjusted the X value.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I'm kind of puzzled of this issue?!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is my mainboard toasted? Or could the E-stepper driver be possibly dead?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyone with good ideas?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After a good question on if i had worked on the board with the power ON i went into myself and thought; damn, i actually just have done that. And by trying to move the x-axis with the steppermotor just to have NOTHING happen... i think my steppermotor driver is dead by my own doing... I will buy a new one and let you guys know!!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37339" LastEditorUserId="37339" LastEditDate="2023-02-20T15:34:58.603" LastActivityDate="2023-04-05T15:45:33.383" Title="Ender 3 V2 Neo upgraded with Biqu H2 V2 not extruding" Tags="|creality-ender-3|marlin|extruder|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20598" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-02-19T15:24:34.780" Score="0" ViewCount="271" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can anyone tell me what would cause an entire print to be shifted about 8mm?&#xA;I have a new Elegoo Neptune 3 Pro (which is doing an awesome job so far!).&#xA;I started printing this &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5414034&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Treasure Chest Puzzle Box&lt;/a&gt; overnight, and this morning it looked pretty good until I noticed that after approximately 3 layers, the print shifted by about 8mm. I think it shifted again by about 1mm after 1 layer. The rest of the print is perfect.&#xA;Unfortunately, I pulled the print off and closed my Cura file before I took note of which direction the print was on the bed, so I don't know which dimension was shifted - the direction the bed slides or the direction the extruder head moves.&#xA;I printed on the normal Cura profile.&#xA;Thanks.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GdXue.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GdXue.png&quot; alt=&quot;print shifted&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37338" LastActivityDate="2023-02-20T17:06:09.260" Title="Entire Print Shifted" Tags="|troubleshooting|elegoo-neptune-3|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20599" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20595" CreationDate="2023-02-19T15:47:21.517" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Ender 3 v2 does have a lead screw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DbmEi.jpg&quot; width=&quot;400&quot; alt=&quot;Photo of lead screw on Ender 3 v2&quot; title=&quot;Photo of lead screw on Ender 3 v2&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These are the main differences:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Threaded rods have a single V-shaped thread&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lead screws have multiple trapezoidal threads&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23193" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2023-02-20T17:12:27.557" LastActivityDate="2023-02-20T17:12:27.557" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20600" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20598" CreationDate="2023-02-20T09:44:39.423" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;One of the following might be the case:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your X or Y belt may be loose. Are the belts under enough tension?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The speed / acceleration / deceleration of your head may be so high that the belt slips. Can you try to move the bed or the head and see if the belt slips?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The head of the extruder might have got caught in an extruded part that somehow got lifted up or fell over. Can you see any sign of a part that got bumped by the extruder head?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your cat might have gotten a little too interested and whacked the printer's bed with its paw.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4708" LastActivityDate="2023-02-20T09:44:39.423" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20601" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20598" CreationDate="2023-02-20T17:06:09.260" Score="1" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Classic layer shift&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The whole print shifted. This means that for some reason, the bed moved more than the printer thought it did. This is typically happening in the following situations:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The bed was prevented from moving, usually due to the cable snagging somewhere&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The bed moved too much, usually due to being hit&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The bed moved when not told to, usually due to the operator bumping into it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The Printhead did anything that resulted in the bed moving, but on the printhead.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The belt was loose and skipped a few steps.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastActivityDate="2023-02-20T17:06:09.260" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20603" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-02-20T19:51:15.940" Score="1" ViewCount="524" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just got an Elegoo Neptune 3 Pro and it's been printing great. Until now. I'm not sure what changed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My first layer is acting funny. I get separation of the lines, but only where the extruder is moving in a specific direction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MktH0.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Photo of print showing &amp;quot;separation of lines&amp;quot; on one side of the brim&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MktH0.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Photo of print showing &amp;quot;separation of lines&amp;quot; on one side of the brim&quot; title=&quot;Photo of print showing &amp;quot;separation of lines&amp;quot; on one side of the brim&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the head is moving in the x direction (left looking at the printer), it raises and doesn't adhere to the line next to it. Often the print will go on to work fine, but this is bothering me. The one side of the brim looks beautiful, and I want the entire brim to look that way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't think it's a bed level issue. I see the issue just after a 36 -point bed level. I can also print a good skirt that covers the bed and there are no inconsistencies. If I printed two of the object in the image above, they would both have the issue despite one being positioned on another side of the bed. It has more to do with the direction the head is moving.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37338" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2023-02-21T17:17:02.050" LastActivityDate="2023-02-21T17:17:02.050" Title="What causes this lack of adhesion on the first layer" Tags="|adhesion|elegoo-neptune-3|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20604" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20589" CreationDate="2023-02-21T10:10:37.917" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It should be possible to replace the hot end, there are &lt;a href=&quot;https://ohai.lulzbot.com/project/LulzBot-Hexagon-Hot-End-subassemblies/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;descriptions&lt;/a&gt; available that &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.printyourmind3d.ca/blogs/tutorials/replacing-the-hot-end-on-your-lulzbot-taz-printer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;describe&lt;/a&gt; how to service or replace the &amp;quot;Mini Hexagon Hot End&amp;quot; or known as &lt;a href=&quot;https://lulzbot.com/store/lulzbot-longblock-hexagon-hot-end-kit-1-2mm-kt-cp0112?ref=KT-CP0112&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&amp;quot;LulzBot LongBlock Hexagon Hot End Kit&amp;quot;&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, it might be a challenge to find these hot ends to be sold separately. You need to search for &amp;quot;Hexagon hotend&amp;quot; and may find a &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B07QM2BH8K&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;supplier&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;https://itworks3d.com/product/hexagon-hotend-assembly-2/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;two&lt;/a&gt; to acquire one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It might be cheaper and more robust for the future to replace the extruder/hot end assembly all together. If you look at the amount of hits you get for the Hexagon extruder it appears as if it is discontinued.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2023-02-21T10:10:37.917" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20605" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-02-21T18:57:12.850" Score="1" ViewCount="548" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a problem with my OctoPrint setup. No matter if I check any of these options, image looks just like attached below - with front side on the left-top instead of bottom-right.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Flip webcam horizontally&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Flip webcam vertically&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rotate webcam 90 degrees counter clockwise&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I use OctoPi, flashed today, 2023-02-21. Is there something in the advanced options I could use to rotate my webcam image the way I need it to be? Camera is glued to the ceiling of my LackRack, That's why it's upside down. This is the only place that works well with it's focal length that's too long for any other place than a corner farthest away from the center of my printing bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XrEin.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XrEin.png&quot; alt=&quot;Webcam image&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/q13hA.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/q13hA.png&quot; alt=&quot;Options image&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20803" LastActivityDate="2023-02-21T18:57:12.850" Title="How to solve problem with OctoPrint webcam rotation" Tags="|octoprint|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20606" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23190" CreationDate="2023-02-22T13:40:03.770" Score="4" ViewCount="648" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a new Ender 3 S1 printer with CR Touch sensor (never had experience with auto levelling before) and I'm confused about how it works. Also, I updated the firmware to &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/mriscoc/Ender3V2S1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Professional Firmware&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I ran a couple of tests with different approaches and printed a two-layer square the size of the bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I do manual bed tramming using paper. Decent tolerance, all four corners of the test print have approximately the same height of ~0.45 mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Then I run the tramming wizard, it touches four corners of the bed and says the back-left corner has an elevation of 0.15 mm and the front-right corner is -0.16 mm. I adjust the bed using screws until the wizard says all four corners are within ~0.03 mm and I print the same square again. The result is worse than paper levelling back-left corner is ~0.64 mm thickness and the front-right is ~0.45 mm. It even visually looks inconsistent&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I tram the bed using paper again, print the square, and all is good. Then I built auto-leveling mesh, enabled it in starting G-code, and printed the square. Once again, the result is bad.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How it could be that manual tramming does not correspond to the probe levelling? I don't think it's a mechanics issue, since both the nozzle and the probe are sitting rigidly on the same extruder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is what the mesh looks like after nice and consistent manual tramming.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nDPt3.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Photo of the Ender 3 S1's display showing the Mesh Viewer for bed leveling&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nDPt3.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Photo of the Ender 3 S1's display showing the Mesh Viewer for bed leveling&quot; title=&quot;Photo of the Ender 3 S1's display showing the Mesh Viewer for bed leveling&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37373" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2024-04-04T00:16:47.990" LastActivityDate="2024-04-04T00:16:47.990" Title="Inconsistency of manual tramming and auto tramming/auto bed levelling" Tags="|creality-ender-3|marlin|bed-leveling|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20608" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-02-22T19:33:05.387" Score="0" ViewCount="94" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am looking for a resin to use with my Phrozen Sonic Mini 4K.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am trying to print useable plastic connector shells for an industrial use-case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;My requirements are:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Layer heights of approx. 50 µm or smaller possible in a reliable way&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Feature resolution is comparable to standard resins&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Minimal material wall-thickness of 0.15 mm in a reliable way&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Resistant to solvents commonly used in industrial environments&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Used for cleaning and so on, e.g. brake-cleaner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Somewhat comparable mechanical properties compared to PBT plastic &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.matweb.com/search/DataSheet.aspx?MatGUID=781bd0e9d0854fd5a919866c39ea3065&amp;amp;ckck=1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;datasheet&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Temperature range of -20 to 85 °C without major losses in mechanical properties&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Is dimensionally long-term stable&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Price and vendor are, as long as reasonable, not an issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37379" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2023-02-23T13:45:03.120" LastActivityDate="2023-10-29T23:22:54.370" Title="Recommendation for 3D-Resin" Tags="|resin|material|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20610" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20597" CreationDate="2023-02-23T14:40:17.120" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think that you need to continue through the process of elimination. You have proved that your x-axis driver works, by connecting it to the extruder stepper motor. Now you need to prove that your extruder driver works.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would suggest to test whether your extruder driver is at fault or damaged, by connecting the x-axis stepper to the extruder driver and then trying to move the x-axis, in much the same way as you did with your extruder stepper motor connected to the x-axis stepper driver.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whilst this isn't an actual solution to your issue, at least this way you can hopefully narrow down precisely where your issue is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4762" LastActivityDate="2023-02-23T14:40:17.120" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20611" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20597" CreationDate="2023-02-23T14:52:12.637" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Although not the answer, but more a step into solving the issue, when you swap cables, always un-power the board, never hot-swap cables as this can destroy the drivers. You could possibly be dealing with a dead driver.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You proved by swapping the X-axis for the extruder that the extruder works on the X-axis driver (now you now that the extruder stepper works), so you either did something wrong in your config file or the driver is dead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could look into what differences you have configured with respect to &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Configurations/blob/import-2.1.x/config/examples/Creality/Ender-3%20V2%20Neo/Configuration.h&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;the Marlin config for the Ender 3 V2 Neo&lt;/a&gt; to look for possible problems with your config file.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Furthermore, in order to extrude, your nozzle need to be at least 170 °C, else it will not extrude.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2023-02-23T14:59:40.570" LastActivityDate="2023-02-23T14:59:40.570" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20612" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-02-23T18:37:19.083" Score="0" ViewCount="70" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had a pretty big problem with clogs, at both the nozzle and the other end too.  I fixed those and installed a new nozzle.  Now I can print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But when I go to change the filament, it won't heat up and shows 35/0 degrees.  I have to shut down the printer completely before I can get it to heat up.  So I can no longer change colors mid-print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37376" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2023-02-24T01:47:54.450" LastActivityDate="2023-02-24T01:47:54.450" Title="Must restart Adventurer 3 before it will heat up" Tags="|change-filament|heat|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20613" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20628" CreationDate="2023-02-23T19:03:55.567" Score="0" ViewCount="946" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been getting deeper and deeper down the rabbit hole of UBL and I am losing my mind!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just installed the CR Touch and I am having print issue after print issue with larger prints despite manually leveling the bed (bed adjustment not UBL manual) to the best of my ability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ender 3 v1&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Board: Creality 4.2.7&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Firmware: Marlin 2.1.2&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Firmware config: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.dropbox.com/s/5bveiho4uh21iea/Configuration.h?dl=0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;code&gt;configuration.h&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hotend: Creality Direct Drive Sprite Pro&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;UBL Sensor: CR Touch&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The height map clearly shows an issue - I just don't know how to fix it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mbfEP.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Screenshot of the bed mesh&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mbfEP.png&quot; alt=&quot;Screenshot of the bed mesh&quot; title=&quot;Screenshot of the bed mesh&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of note - &lt;code&gt;G29 P1&lt;/code&gt; will only get through 44 of the 100 touchpoints&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is the code I ran through to generate the mesh:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;G28       ; home all axes&#xA;M420 S0   ; Turning off bed leveling while probing, if firmware is set&#xA;          ; to restore after G28&#xA;M155 S30  ; reduce temperature reporting rate to reduce output pollution&#xA;M190 S65  ; (optional) wait for the bed to get up to temperature&#xA;G29 P1    ; automatically populate mesh with all reachable points&#xA;G29 P3    ; infer the rest of the mesh values&#xA;G29 P3    ; infer the rest of the mesh values again&#xA;@BEDLEVELVISUALIZER ; tell the plugin to watch for reported mesh&#xA;M420 S1 V ; enabled leveling and report the new mesh&#xA;G29 S0    ; Save UBL mesh points to slot 0 (EEPROM).&#xA;G29 F 10.0 ; Set Fade Height for correction at 10.0 mm.&#xA;G29 A     ; Activate the UBL System.&#xA;M500      ; save the current setup to EEPROM&#xA;M155 S3   ; reset temperature reporting&#xA;M140 S0   ; cooling down the bed&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37401" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2023-02-23T19:34:00.920" LastActivityDate="2023-07-04T03:09:07.760" Title="Ender 3 CR Touch UBL Fails to Produce Viable Mesh" Tags="|creality-ender-3|marlin|firmware|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20614" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20575" CreationDate="2023-02-23T21:21:18.787" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;So worked out you can't directly do this with metadata, however you can add modifiers to objects in PrusaSlicer, and you can use external STLs as the geometry for the modifier.  Then you can add an infill property to the modifier and set different parameters there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/X4Uuh.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/X4Uuh.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37265" LastActivityDate="2023-02-23T21:21:18.787" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20615" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20608" CreationDate="2023-02-23T22:51:43.817" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your question contains mostly two important things,&#xA;1° Solvent resistance: Brake cleaner is mostly Acetone (90% and aroma compounds 10% in my experience)&#xA;You need a resin that resists Acetone then.&#xA;There are not a lot according to the tests by &lt;a href=&quot;https://support.formlabs.com/s/article/Solvent-Compatibility?language=en_US&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Formlabs&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;div class=&quot;s-table-container&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;table class=&quot;s-table&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;thead&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;th&gt;Solvent&lt;/th&gt;&#xA;&lt;th style=&quot;text-align: center;&quot;&gt;Grey Pro&lt;br&gt;Resin V1&lt;br&gt;(FLPRGR01)&lt;/th&gt;&#xA;&lt;th style=&quot;text-align: center;&quot;&gt;High Temp&lt;br&gt;Resin V2&lt;br&gt;(FLHTAM02)&lt;/th&gt;&#xA;&lt;th style=&quot;text-align: center;&quot;&gt;Rigid 4000&lt;br&gt;Resin&lt;br&gt;(FLRGWH01)&lt;/th&gt;&#xA;&lt;th style=&quot;text-align: center;&quot;&gt;Rigid 10K&lt;br&gt;Resin&lt;br&gt;(FLRG1001)&lt;/th&gt;&#xA;&lt;th style=&quot;text-align: center;&quot;&gt;Tough&lt;br&gt;Resin V5&lt;br&gt;(FlTOTL05)&lt;/th&gt;&#xA;&lt;th style=&quot;text-align: center;&quot;&gt;Tough 1500&lt;br&gt;Resin V1&lt;br&gt;(FLTO1501)&lt;/th&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;/thead&gt;&#xA;&lt;tbody&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Acetic acid&lt;br&gt;(5%)&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td style=&quot;text-align: center;&quot;&gt;0.8&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td style=&quot;text-align: center;&quot;&gt;&amp;lt;1.0&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td style=&quot;text-align: center;&quot;&gt;0.8&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td style=&quot;text-align: center;&quot;&gt;&amp;lt;0.1&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td style=&quot;text-align: center;&quot;&gt;2.8&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td style=&quot;text-align: center;&quot;&gt;0.8&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Acetone&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td style=&quot;text-align: center;&quot;&gt;10.8&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td style=&quot;text-align: center;&quot;&gt;&amp;lt;0.1&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td style=&quot;text-align: center;&quot;&gt;3.3&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td style=&quot;text-align: center;&quot;&gt;&amp;lt;0.1&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td style=&quot;text-align: center;&quot;&gt;sample&lt;br&gt;cracked&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td style=&quot;text-align: center;&quot;&gt;19.1&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tbody&gt;&#xA;&lt;/table&gt;&#xA;&lt;/div&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We can see that there are not a lot of resins that resist this solvent. Only one seems suitable: &amp;quot;Resin (FLRGWH01)  Rigid 10K Resin (FLRG1001)&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2° long-lasting mechanical stress :&#xA;the phenomenon is called &amp;quot;to creep&amp;quot; : (slowly deform) under constant pressure. Exerted by the bolts or clamping on the parts for example.&#xA;Please be careful as most of the resins can be prone to failure due to continuous use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As the &lt;a href=&quot;https://docs.vorondesign.com/materials.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Voron Materials Selection&lt;/a&gt; explains.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While on paper resin printed parts could work for heat resistance depending on the resin type, resin parts typically continue to shrink over time putting them outside of dimensional tolerances. Resin prints also typically exhibit long term creeping under bolt pressure and have a tendency to catastrophically fail after just a few months of use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maybe you can try this one out from the seller eSUN?&#xA;It has good mechanical properties. &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.esun3d.com/hard-tough-resin-product/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Hard-Tough Resin&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The brand is good but I don't think the solvent resistance is acceptable for you, but in the end, you should try it out and tell us here as this is an interesting topic to all of us here!&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;But frankly, as you can read on the links I posted... Resin is probably not a solution for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3791" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2023-10-29T23:22:54.370" LastActivityDate="2023-10-29T23:22:54.370" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20616" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20596" CreationDate="2023-02-23T22:53:00.613" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes this is plausible. Please weight your bobin and dry it then weight it again to know how much water you extracted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3791" LastActivityDate="2023-02-23T22:53:00.613" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20618" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20632" CreationDate="2023-02-24T15:44:11.757" Score="0" ViewCount="1273" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm using the eSun Silk PLA and I printed a temperature tower to find out the best settings. For print speed, the default speed of 50 mm/s and 25 mm/s for walls and surfaces are used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem is none of the temperature levels seem to be the best! As you can see from the following pictures:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3sTpv.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3sTpv.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hn73K.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hn73K.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The 195 °C step is the &amp;quot;less worse&amp;quot; but still far from good.&#xA;Are there any other parameters I should tune?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a Dremel 3D45 and I use Cura.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21979" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2023-02-28T11:41:10.900" LastActivityDate="2023-02-28T14:48:25.340" Title="PLA temperature tower failed" Tags="|pla|calibration|temperature|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20620" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-02-24T20:50:16.283" Score="0" ViewCount="45" Body="&lt;p&gt;It has been a few months of trial and error trying to work this out. I made the printer succeed in printing normally, but the quality is terrible. These tiny cuts appear in every print as well as uneven walls that feel bumpy. Does anyone have any tips to fix this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Printer specs:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ender 3 v2&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sprite pro extruder&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;CR touch&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pro software&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rEvau.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Photo of a 3D benchy with what look like tiny cuts randomly up the model&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rEvau.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Photo of a 3D benchy with what look like tiny cuts randomly up the model&quot; title=&quot;Photo of a 3D benchy with what look like tiny cuts randomly up the model&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ATndC.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Photo of a 3D printed model with small horizontal cuts along the perimeter&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ATndC.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Photo of a 3D printed model with small horizontal cuts along the perimeter&quot; title=&quot;Photo of a 3D printed model with small horizontal cuts along the perimeter&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37420" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2023-02-25T04:09:49.607" LastActivityDate="2023-02-25T04:09:49.607" Title="I'm having issues stopping tiny cuts and uneven print quality in my prints ever since I upgraded my printer" Tags="|print-quality|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20622" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-02-25T01:43:51.277" Score="1" ViewCount="513" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have had a Creality Ender 3 v2 with a 4.2.2 motherboard for about 2 years. It's a company-owned machine but I got it just about when Covid hit so it has only been used at home. It worked OK at first. I used it a good bit. Then I got a Prusa and liked it better so I mostly used it for both work and personal stuff.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now Covid work-from-home is over and I have moved my Ender 3 back to my office. I also installed a BLTouch I bought a long time ago but never got around to installing it. I had a devil of a time getting the BLTouch to work. It would quit halfway through leveling. I ended up installing Jyers firmware with a 3x3 leveling grid and now it prints. Kewl!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now I have an issue where none of the dimensions on my prints are correct. I am printing a housing for a circuit board so the dimensions have to be correct or the circuit board will not fit. X, Y, and Z are all undersized. Worse yet, the first 3 or 4 mm in the Z-axis layers are squished. It's like elephant's foot on steroids. I attached a photo.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the X and Y dimensions of the print are oversized at the bottom due to the elephant's foot but are undersized at the top. The Z-axis dimension is way undersized because of the squish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Jyers firmware has a &amp;quot;steps/mm&amp;quot; setting. I haven't changed it from default. Creality's specs say the printer is capable of 0.1 mm resolution but it doesn't say steps/mm so I have no idea whether default settings are correct in Jyers firmware. Jyers was developed specifically for the Ender 3 v2 so I would expect it to be right.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I checked all the rollers on all axes and they look fine. I checked the coupler on the Z-axis stepper and it is tight. I can't find anything loose. The rails are clean and no foreign matter is present. The belts are tight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am printing with Hatchbox PLA. I have always had success with this stuff on my Prusa.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I compared the default PLA temps for Creality vs. Prusa. The Prusa runs the extruder at 220 °C vs the Creality running at 215 °C. I am using PrusaSlicer for the Creality.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A related issue I am having is the supports. When I print with supports on the Prusa the supports break off easily. I can usually break them off with just my fingers. The same supports on the Ender 3 v2 require pliers. The support material is binding to the model too tightly. The elephant's foot would explain why supports on the lower layers would be wonky but even supports at higher layers are hard to remove.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I replaced the nozzle with a new 0.4 mm unit hoping this might help. No improvement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vOQyP.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Photo of a 3D printed model with the lower layers larger than the upper layers&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vOQyP.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Photo of a 3D printed model with the lower layers larger than the upper layers&quot; title=&quot;Photo of a 3D printed model with the lower layers larger than the upper layers&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36776" LastEditorUserId="36802" LastEditDate="2023-11-23T13:22:50.047" LastActivityDate="2023-11-23T13:22:50.047" Title="Creality Ender 3 V2 Printed objects incorrect dimensions" Tags="|creality-ender-3|jyers|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20623" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-02-25T10:33:26.430" Score="2" ViewCount="44" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YyXvc.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YyXvc.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EqfPd.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EqfPd.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The print needs to be 1 layer thick as it is a plane part. Even with supports, layer gaps like in image appear. It would be nice to have supports for it but the software is treating the object as if it was hollow therefore meaning infill makes no difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Is there a way to &amp;quot;support&amp;quot; inside of the model walls? (not infill)&#xA;-STL included now&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37426" LastEditorUserId="37426" LastEditDate="2023-02-25T21:01:30.667" LastActivityDate="2023-02-25T21:01:30.667" Title="Surface gaps in 3D print" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|3d-models|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20626" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20631" CreationDate="2023-02-25T21:57:16.077" Score="0" ViewCount="84" Body="&lt;p&gt;Printer: Ender 3 with a metal extruder - PLA&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After a long break from printing anything, I started printing again, but the results had obvious underextrusion issues:&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6JTBu.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6JTBu.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;XYZ block&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But after I tweaked temp, flow, and speed for multiple test prints, the issues disappeared - &lt;em&gt;even if the settings were returned to default&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sadly, after a couple good prints, it started having issues again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why is my printer having these issues?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: The cause was that I didn't install the spring in the tension arm correctly-it was not compressed enough to deliver the necessary force to grip the filament.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since my printer was working fine until recently, it leads me to believe that the spring must have weakened. So new question: is that the case? And do you recommend I unscrew the arm and release the spring when I'm not using the printer to improve lifetime?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="33398" LastEditorUserId="33398" LastEditDate="2023-02-28T01:08:19.400" LastActivityDate="2023-02-28T13:59:52.433" Title="Underextrusion Cause" Tags="|creality-ender-3|pla|underextrusion|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20628" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20613" CreationDate="2023-02-26T01:47:02.170" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Figured it out: human error.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I will document the steps I took to resolve nonetheless.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Originally was confused why the probe was failing to probe areas that were clearly in range of the probe head (left and bottom of the print bed) which had me incorrectly thinking the issue was with CRTouch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jZfMr.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Graphic showing the probe matrix with its default settings&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jZfMr.png&quot; alt=&quot;Graphic showing the probe matrix with its default settings&quot; title=&quot;Graphic showing the probe matrix with its default settings&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Reflashed the firmware with the probe margin set to 2 mm instead of the default 10 mm which helped auto-probe the remaining areas the probe could reach.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#define PROBING_MARGIN 2&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FI0uR.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Graphic showing the probe matrix with a 2 mm margin&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FI0uR.png&quot; alt=&quot;Graphic showing the probe matrix with a 2 mm margin&quot; title=&quot;Graphic showing the probe matrix with a 2 mm margin&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This made it abundantly clear I was an idiot as the probe could not physically reach the unpopulated areas in tandem with the direct drive Sprite hot end.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To complete the mesh I manually probed the three remaining corners (Mesh Edit option on the printer control panel) and then had the firmware smart auto-fill the remaining probe points using the terminal command &lt;a href=&quot;https://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/G029-ubl.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;code&gt;G29 P3&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The outcome was an extremely accurate mesh that allows full use of the original Ender-3 v1 bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LL5cm.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Graphic showing the probe matrix all parts of the bed measured&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LL5cm.png&quot; alt=&quot;Graphic showing the probe matrix all parts of the bed measured&quot; title=&quot;Graphic showing the probe matrix all parts of the bed measured&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37401" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2023-02-26T02:45:41.427" LastActivityDate="2023-02-26T02:45:41.427" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20629" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19246" CreationDate="2023-02-26T02:01:26.560" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had the exact same-looking layer lines, and the problem was multi-factorial, but mainly in the Y-axis concentric nuts being too loose.  In the Ender 3, the Y-axis wobbles very easily because it only has the thinner rail, the Ender 3 pro has the wider 40x40 aluminum rail on the Y-axis and it makes a world of difference.   It sounds like you have dealt with this, just make sure to double-check that they are indeed as tight as recommended by CHEP.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other issue was the extruder motor shaft/brass geared wheel that is on the shaft.  If the motor shaft is slightly warped or the brass gears are worn or some of the gears are full of filament, etc., you will get a consistently uneven extrusion that gives weird layer lines; I had to replace the gear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, the end of the X-axis that does &lt;strong&gt;not&lt;/strong&gt; contain the lead screw came way too tight from the manufacturer, which leads to uneven lines.  This was not apparent from simply moving the gantry up and down.  It required taking apart the X-axis gantry so that the wheels on that right side were independent of the lead screw side and then adjusting those concentric nuts so that the little 3-wheel part would glide up and down the rail with no resistance at all, and then reattaching it to the rest of the gantry. It is a different technique than tightening the other concentric nuts because you don’t care if a wheel seems too loose, just that it flows up and down the rail (I wish I had the time to find the YouTube video that explained this technique because it solved the last of my problems).  I know you are waiting for a second lead screw but could try this adjustment while waiting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, you said that you have changed nozzles, but where are they all from the same company and batch? I got a batch from Amazon that all seemed to give me gimped prints so changing the nozzle to one from a different company might still help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;BTW, I am also using the skr V3 with no problems, in one Ender 3 printer (other upgrades are just Capricorn tube and filament runout sensor) and the other Ender 3 has the original 8-bit board and they both print about the same quality with regards to layer lines - which is similar to your original pictures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="32863" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2023-02-26T02:49:43.400" LastActivityDate="2023-02-26T02:49:43.400" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20630" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-02-27T02:43:15.227" Score="3" ViewCount="247" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am just getting into printing and would like some direction on my current project.  I am building a display cube, and I would like to have an LED light on both the left and right sides.  The battery pack/power would come up from the bottom.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am using freeCad as my design tool.  My initial thought would be to create a pocket where the LEDs will be at and then create holes leading back to the bottom.  That seems like the logical solution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another option I had was to create channels on the inside of the square and run my cables through those.  However, this will make the cables visible, and also show the channels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My final option would be to hollow out the insides with a little bit left for the surfaces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With all of these options, I can see pros and cons, so that is why I am looking for a little guidance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37443" LastActivityDate="2023-11-09T13:05:45.730" Title="How do I run wires for an LED through my print?" Tags="|3d-design|freecad|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20631" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20626" CreationDate="2023-02-28T13:59:52.433" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is unlikely to be a settings issue. It's almost surely a physical issue with the extruder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Usually on an Ender 3, this is a problem with the tension arm. The stock one is made of plastic and the arm, or mount that's holding the arm can crack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's also possible you have a weak spring tensioning it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Aside from issues with the arm, the teeth of the extruder gear can get gummed up with chewed-up plastic, or worn down from printing abrasive materials, to the point they're no longer able to dig into the filament and push it effectively.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2023-02-28T13:59:52.433" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20632" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20618" CreationDate="2023-02-28T14:48:25.340" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;For the most part, a well dialed-in printer should be able to print PLA just fine along that entire range of temperatures. You seem to have various other problems going on which make a temperature tower a poor place to start with tuning. Also, this test makes heavy use of bridging, which is really hard to get right because it involves things like suddenly disappearing backpressure against the extrusion, lack of surface to squish the material against, and how you deal with that. Cura has a lot of settings to tune this, but getting it right is an advanced topic, and hard even then. Judging that you have the wrong temperature because bridging had problems, when you haven't done anything to get bridging to work, doesn't make sense.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The catastrophic stringing at the bottom indicates to me that the filament is fairly wet. I would suggest drying it before doing anything else, because &lt;strong&gt;so many&lt;/strong&gt; of the common print problems folks hit have wet filament as the root cause or at least a contributing cause, and you can waste &lt;strong&gt;so much&lt;/strong&gt; time chasing other things like tuning retraction, temperatures, etc. when the  problem was just water all along. Silk filaments are particularly sensitive to moisture, by the way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You also have a severe ripple artifact in the surface of your print. This could be ringing from having your acceleration set too high for your printer. Probably any more than 500 is way too much for outer walls on this printer; inner and other parts could perhaps go a bit higher. But it's possible you already have acceleration plenty low and that the issue here is poor belt tensioning or a loose screw somewhere in the toolhead or motion system assembly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It looks like you have some places where the material didn't stay in the right place at corners. This might indicate poor cooling, either something wrong with the fan (filled with dust, broken blade, bad bearing with too much friction) or just that the printer lacks good cooling to begin with. This would also contribute a lot to bridging not working well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2023-02-28T14:48:25.340" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20633" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20630" CreationDate="2023-02-28T16:11:50.170" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the display cube consists of transparent panels, create a 3D printed frame along the edges of the panels. Incorporate through holes in the frame elements to run the wires through.  It should also be possible to build in a way to mount the LEDs to the frame elements.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="33030" LastActivityDate="2023-02-28T16:11:50.170" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20634" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20639" CreationDate="2023-02-28T22:00:27.500" Score="0" ViewCount="65" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a BLV Core XY, I'm trying to print different models, but the machine moves the center once it goes to start the process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is my G-code of the beginning:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;G21&#xA;G90&#xA;M82&#xA;M107&#xA;G28&#xA;&#xA;M413 S1 ;Power-loss recovery&#xA;&#xA;;M190 S60    ;bed heat on&#xA;G34              ;Auto Z Level&#xA;G29              ;Bed Levelling&#xA;&#xA;G28 Z&#xA; &#xA;G1 Z2 F240&#xA;G1 X2 Y10 F1200&#xA;G1 Z0.2 F240&#xA;G92 E0.0&#xA;G1 Y150 E15.0 F1000.0 ; intro line&#xA;G1 X2.3 F5000&#xA;G1 Y10 E30 F1200.0 ; intro line&#xA;G92 E0.0&#xA;&#xA;M117 Printing...&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9isrk.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9isrk.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;one&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dkJG4.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dkJG4.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;two&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, if I do a simple command like, to send the &lt;code&gt;(0,0)&lt;/code&gt; on Z axis, it happens fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dekYa.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dekYa.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;center&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12715" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2023-03-01T07:31:00.137" LastActivityDate="2023-03-01T07:40:14.223" Title="How center the nozzle before start printing" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|g-code|corexy|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20635" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-02-28T23:27:13.960" Score="1" ViewCount="317" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought the BLTouch and followed the instructions to install it, but it ended up not working. After installing the new firmware, the screen started bugging out (pixels being out of place, always moving). And when I tried to use the BLTouch, it didn't detect anything below it; the light is always red, and the plastic part it uses to sense doesn't move and making my printer unusable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I looked online to see how to reset my printer so I could re-install the software, but it mentioned a terminal and I didn't understand what that was. My computer runs Windows 11, and I'm fairly new to PCs, so a step-by-step would be helpful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37467" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2023-03-01T07:14:09.773" LastActivityDate="2023-03-01T07:14:09.773" Title="Ender-3 Pro Factory reset/BLTouch Setup" Tags="|creality-ender-3|bltouch|lcd-screen|reset|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20636" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20662" CreationDate="2023-03-01T03:01:15.377" Score="1" ViewCount="281" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got one particular print which is causing me problems.  I've printed other things without changing the filament or printer, so the problem is at least partially the print itself, which has a lot of supports and unconnected sections.  What sorts of things can I do to fix this?  I'm printing on an Ender 3 Pro and using Ultimaker Cura for slicing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I print in PLA at 200 °C. The print bed is set to 40 °C. I use a print cooling fan at 100%. The layer height I set to 0.2 mm, the line width 0.4 mm from the 0.4 mm nozzle. I'm not positive what my print speed was set to, but I think I tried it at the default (50 mm/s infill) and then a second time slower (20-30 mm/s, probably).  Regardless, the wall speed was set to half whatever the infill speed is. My retraction is 6.5 mm/off at 25 mm/s.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xIHAD.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xIHAD.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;half-completed spider print&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36596" LastEditorUserId="36596" LastEditDate="2023-03-04T20:29:27.000" LastActivityDate="2023-03-08T21:52:35.587" Title="I have one print that's underextruding, what settings should I change?" Tags="|creality-ender-3|print-quality|ultimaker-cura|underextrusion|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20637" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-03-01T05:41:06.447" Score="0" ViewCount="65" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to add dwell time like the newly added layer has to cool down to a certain temperature and then the new layer has to be added and so on. Is there any command in G-code for adding dwell time based on temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37471" LastActivityDate="2023-03-01T05:41:06.447" Title="Add dwell time for reaching a certain low temperature to the added layer, G-Code for using ANSYS DED process" Tags="|g-code|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20638" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15077" CreationDate="2023-03-01T07:39:43.303" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As a new Cura UltiMaker user, I found that when I tried to load a very detailed STL file, I received a message that it had too many faces. On checking the Cura site, it said that the limit was 30K faces. That may be a limitation only of the version of Cura that I have (it is for a Fokoos Odin-5 printer).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37475" LastEditorUserId="37475" LastEditDate="2023-03-01T07:41:47.563" LastActivityDate="2023-03-01T07:41:47.563" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20639" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20634" CreationDate="2023-03-01T07:40:14.223" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You have defined your bed incorrectly in the firmware.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First line you print is at X=2, while it is printed a couple of centimeters from the edge. Second the final cube is not in the center of the bed while it presumably is sliced in the center.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should look into the definition of the bed size, the end stop offsets and the probe offsets to fix this. A detailed question and answer is found in &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/8153/&quot;&gt;How to set Z-probe boundary limits in firmware when using automatic bed leveling?&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2023-03-01T07:40:14.223" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20640" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20641" CreationDate="2023-03-01T11:20:46.197" Score="0" ViewCount="61" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am following the tutorial &lt;a href=&quot;https://wiki.makerspaceleiden.nl/mediawiki/index.php/Slicing_a_3D_object_to_SVG&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Slicing a 3D object to SVG&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My code looks like so:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;import(&amp;quot;/Users/petarivcec/Desktop/art/king of sun/1.stl&amp;quot;);&#xA;&#xA; z_min = 0;&#xA; z_max = 100;&#xA; x_max = 50;&#xA; y_max = 55;&#xA; slice = 1;&#xA; &#xA; n = floor(sqrt((z_max - z_min)/slice)+1);&#xA; for(z = [-z_max:slice:z_min]) { &#xA;   i = (z + z_max) / slice;&#xA;   x = x_max * (i % n);&#xA;   y = Y_max * floor(i / n);&#xA;   translate([x,y,0]) {&#xA;       projection(cut=true) &#xA;           translate([0,0,z]) thing();&#xA;   };&#xA; };&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I hit &lt;strong&gt;Render&lt;/strong&gt;, then I get warnings like:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;code&gt;WARNING: Ignoring unknown module 'thing' in file , line 16&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I guess that I just need to figure out how to run the loop on my imported stl instead of the non-existent &lt;code&gt;thing&lt;/code&gt; module which exists in the example code but I'm not really sure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37476" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2023-03-01T14:37:53.017" LastActivityDate="2023-03-01T14:37:53.017" Title="I am getting an error when trying to slice an STL object into multiple vector files" Tags="|openscad|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20641" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20640" CreationDate="2023-03-01T13:47:12.010" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to the linked site, it appears that you are missing the &amp;quot;identifier&amp;quot; module for the item to be cut into layers, aka thing();&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;module thing() // a random object, in this case a hollow sphere on top&#xA;of a hollow cube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suspect that if you encase your STL import in a module named thing() you will have a solution. An alternative to naming the module would be to remove the thing() call and use the import at that specific location.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The second sample in the linked site is a failure similar to your for the same reason.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastActivityDate="2023-03-01T13:47:12.010" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20642" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20181" CreationDate="2023-03-01T17:57:24.730" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It turns out this was the beginning of the hot end thermistor failing. I took the opportunity to upgrade to an all metal hot end. That was the start of a nightmare that lead to the failure of my mainboard. But it is working now and no temp issues after several months and many prints.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="35987" LastActivityDate="2023-03-01T17:57:24.730" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20643" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-03-01T19:50:01.373" Score="1" ViewCount="518" Body="&lt;p&gt;The current 2.6.0-alpha4 version of PrusaSlicer contains &amp;quot;organic&amp;quot; supports, similar to tree supports of other slicers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One problem I am running into (and which also occurred with the classic supports, but now even more so, since the organic supports are by their nature much more able to grow &amp;quot;into&amp;quot; the model) is that sometimes support structures starting on different sides of the model merge &lt;em&gt;above&lt;/em&gt; some part of the model. One example would be if a model has two horizontal struts above each other, both needing supports. The supports will grow correctly for the first strut (starting from the two sides of the strut on the plate), and then continue on to also support the second strut, but merging &lt;em&gt;above&lt;/em&gt; the first strut; thus completely enclosing it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is then impossible to remove the support structure without possibly damaging the strut, unless the strut is much more massive than the support itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, question time: Is there a way to block two strands of support starting somewhere from merging together further up?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As an example, see this image. Right in the center you see the two big supports, one growing from the front, the other from the back. A few layers upwards they will join and continue as a single big support. Imagine that there is some part of the model &lt;em&gt;below&lt;/em&gt; that, and you see how hard it will be to get the support off without damaging the part (or at least being very annoying and time-consuming). I wish to somehow deny these two &amp;quot;towers&amp;quot; to grow together - whatever they will support further up could easily be achieved by one of them alone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that this has nothing to do with the &amp;quot;support on build plate only&amp;quot; - both support towers do start on the build plate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, I can of course use a support blocker to block supports for whatever feature is above this point, but that kind of defeats the purpose (assume that part further up absolutely does need support).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SFhK2.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SFhK2.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37484" LastActivityDate="2023-03-01T19:50:01.373" Title="Avoid organic supports merging *above* parts of the model" Tags="|support-structures|prusaslicer|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20644" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-03-01T22:14:51.610" Score="1" ViewCount="346" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just replaced my motherboard with a new SKR mini e3 v3 and changed the config files myself based on this &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.makenprint.uk/3d-printing/3d-firmware-guides/marlin/consolidated-marlin-guide/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Consolidated Marlin Guide&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately, It is taking over 10 minutes to heat up the bed which I've never experienced before.  I've checked the voltage going into the motherboard and confirmed it is 24 V. I took a look at the thermistor but I can't tell if that's the issue, I've changed the thermistor on the hotend before and that seemed like a different issue. I'm not sure if there's something in the firmware I missed. (also another problem that's not important but if someone knows the solution that would be great, the stepper motors are quieter than ever which is nice except when homing or leveling, then they sound like&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Y32XL.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Screenshot of Octoprint' temperature details&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Y32XL.png&quot; alt=&quot;Screenshot of Octoprint' temperature details&quot; title=&quot;Screenshot of Octoprint' temperature details&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the end of one of the bed trying to heat up, I turned the printer off because I didn't want to damage the printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Recv:  T:36.05 /0.00 B:47.91 /50.00 @:0 B@:24 W:?&#xA;Recv:  T:36.15 /0.00 B:48.16 /50.00 @:0 B@:10&#xA;Recv:  T:36.02 /0.00 B:48.02 /50.00 @:0 B@:18 W:?&#xA;Recv: echo:busy: processing&#xA;Recv:  T:36.06 /0.00 B:48.01 /50.00 @:0 B@:19 W:?&#xA;Recv:  T:36.04 /0.00 B:48.03 /50.00 @:0 B@:18 W:?&#xA;Recv:  T:35.99 /0.00 B:48.07 /50.00 @:0 B@:16&#xA;Recv: echo:busy: processing&#xA;Recv:  T:36.02 /0.00 B:48.11 /50.00 @:0 B@:14 W:?&#xA;Recv:  T:36.06 /0.00 B:48.08 /50.00 @:0 B@:16 W:?&#xA;Recv: echo:busy: processing&#xA;Recv:  T:35.98 /0.00 B:48.06 /50.00 @:0 B@:17 W:?&#xA;Recv:  T:35.92 /0.00 B:48.02 /50.00 @:0 B@:20&#xA;Recv:  T:35.95 /0.00 B:48.08 /50.00 @:0 B@:16 W:?&#xA;Recv: echo:busy: processing&#xA;Recv:  T:35.96 /0.00 B:47.99 /50.00 @:0 B@:21 W:?&#xA;Recv:  T:35.92 /0.00 B:48.02 /50.00 @:0 B@:19 W:?&#xA;Recv:  T:35.96 /0.00 B:48.09 /50.00 @:0 B@:15&#xA;Recv: echo:busy: processing&#xA;Recv:  T:35.92 /0.00 B:48.14 /50.00 @:0 B@:13 W:?&#xA;Recv:  T:35.99 /0.00 B:48.08 /50.00 @:0 B@:17 W:?&#xA;Recv: echo:busy: processing&#xA;Recv:  T:36.01 /0.00 B:48.02 /50.00 @:0 B@:20 W:?&#xA;Recv:  T:35.92 /0.00 B:48.11 /50.00 @:0 B@:15&#xA;Recv:  T:35.92 /0.00 B:48.09 /50.00 @:0 B@:16 W:?&#xA;Recv: echo:busy: processing&#xA;Recv:  T:35.92 /0.00 B:47.99 /50.00 @:0 B@:22 W:?&#xA;Recv:  T:35.93 /0.00 B:47.98 /50.00 @:0 B@:23 W:?&#xA;Recv:  T:35.88 /0.00 B:48.03 /50.00 @:0 B@:20&#xA;Recv: echo:busy: processing&#xA;Recv:  T:35.92 /0.00 B:48.10 /50.00 @:0 B@:16 W:?&#xA;Recv:  T:35.87 /0.00 B:48.08 /50.00 @:0 B@:17 W:?&#xA;Recv: echo:busy: processing&#xA;Recv:  T:35.92 /0.00 B:48.02 /50.00 @:0 B@:20 W:?&#xA;Recv:  T:35.91 /0.00 B:48.07 /50.00 @:0 B@:18&#xA;Recv:  T:35.91 /0.00 B:48.10 /50.00 @:0 B@:17 W:?&#xA;Recv: echo:busy: processing&#xA;Recv:  T:35.76 /0.00 B:48.06 /50.00 @:0 B@:19 W:?&#xA;Recv:  T:35.89 /0.00 B:48.10 /50.00 @:0 B@:17 W:?&#xA;Recv:  T:35.78 /0.00 B:48.12 /50.00 @:0 B@:16&#xA;Recv: echo:busy: processing&#xA;Recv:  T:35.89 /0.00 B:48.11 /50.00 @:0 B@:17 W:?&#xA;Recv:  T:35.80 /0.00 B:48.02 /50.00 @:0 B@:22 W:?&#xA;Recv: echo:busy: processing&#xA;Recv:  T:35.77 /0.00 B:48.08 /50.00 @:0 B@:19 W:?&#xA;Recv:  T:35.78 /0.00 B:48.01 /50.00 @:0 B@:22&#xA;Recv:  T:35.79 /0.00 B:48.11 /50.00 @:0 B@:17 W:?&#xA;Recv: echo:busy: processing&#xA;Recv:  T:35.69 /0.00 B:48.02 /50.00 @:0 B@:22 W:?&#xA;Recv:  T:35.68 /0.00 B:48.11 /50.00 @:0 B@:17 W:?&#xA;Recv:  T:35.70 /0.00 B:48.14 /50.00 @:0 B@:15&#xA;Recv: echo:busy: processing&#xA;Recv:  T:35.78 /0.00 B:48.15 /50.00 @:0 B@:15 W:?&#xA;Recv:  T:35.66 /0.00 B:48.06 /50.00 @:0 B@:20 W:?&#xA;Recv: echo:busy: processing&#xA;Recv:  T:35.61 /0.00 B:48.10 /50.00 @:0 B@:18 W:?&#xA;Recv:  T:35.71 /0.00 B:48.16 /50.00 @:0 B@:15&#xA;Recv:  T:35.77 /0.00 B:48.18 /50.00 @:0 B@:14 W:?&#xA;Recv: echo:busy: processing&#xA;Recv:  T:35.69 /0.00 B:48.15 /50.00 @:0 B@:16 W:?&#xA;Recv:  T:35.58 /0.00 B:48.09 /50.00 @:0 B@:20 W:?&#xA;Recv:  T:35.63 /0.00 B:48.06 /50.00 @:0 B@:22&#xA;Recv: echo:busy: processing&#xA;Recv:  T:35.60 /0.00 B:48.03 /50.00 @:0 B@:23 W:?&#xA;Recv:  T:35.66 /0.00 B:48.11 /50.00 @:0 B@:19 W:?&#xA;Recv: echo:busy: processing&#xA;Recv:  T:35.62 /0.00 B:48.03 /50.00 @:0 B@:23 W:?&#xA;Recv:  T:35.58 /0.00 B:48.15 /50.00 @:0 B@:17&#xA;Recv:  T:35.61 /0.00 B:48.09 /50.00 @:0 B@:20 W:?&#xA;Recv: echo:busy: processing&#xA;Recv:  T:35.60 /0.00 B:48.22 /50.00 @:0 B@:13 W:?&#xA;Recv:  T:35.67 /0.00 B:48.23 /50.00 @:0 B@:13 W:?&#xA;Recv:  T:35.55 /0.00 B:48.13 /50.00 @:0 B@:18&#xA;Recv: echo:busy: processing&#xA;Recv:  T:35.61 /0.00 B:48.20 /50.00 @:0 B@:14 W:?&#xA;Recv:  T:35.49 /0.00 B:48.16 /50.00 @:0 B@:17 W:?&#xA;Recv: echo:busy: processing&#xA;Recv:  T:35.67 /0.00 B:48.13 /50.00 @:0 B@:19 W:?&#xA;Recv:  T:35.53 /0.00 B:48.19 /50.00 @:0 B@:16&#xA;Recv:  T:35.68 /0.00 B:48.30 /50.00 @:0 B@:10 W:?&#xA;Recv: echo:busy: processing&#xA;Recv:  T:35.40 /0.00 B:48.14 /50.00 @:0 B@:20 W:?&#xA;Recv:  T:35.71 /0.00 B:48.11 /50.00 @:0 B@:22 W:?&#xA;Recv:  T:35.54 /0.00 B:48.18 /50.00 @:0 B@:18&#xA;Recv: echo:busy: processing&#xA;Recv:  T:35.63 /0.00 B:48.09 /50.00 @:0 B@:22 W:?&#xA;Recv:  T:35.58 /0.00 B:48.11 /50.00 @:0 B@:22 W:?&#xA;Recv: echo:busy: processing&#xA;Recv:  T:35.45 /0.00 B:48.16 /50.00 @:0 B@:19 W:?&#xA;Recv:  T:35.60 /0.00 B:48.18 /50.00 @:0 B@:18&#xA;Recv:  T:35.48 /0.00 B:48.17 /50.00 @:0 B@:18 W:?&#xA;Recv: echo:busy: processing&#xA;Recv:  T:35.57 /0.00 B:48.26 /50.00 @:0 B@:13 W:?&#xA;Recv:  T:35.48 /0.00 B:48.20 /50.00 @:0 B@:17 W:?&#xA;Recv:  T:35.48 /0.00 B:48.23 /50.00 @:0 B@:15&#xA;Recv: echo:busy: processing&#xA;Recv:  T:35.54 /0.00 B:48.21 /50.00 @:0 B@:16 W:?&#xA;Recv:  T:35.35 /0.00 B:48.17 /50.00 @:0 B@:19 W:?&#xA;Recv: echo:busy: processing&#xA;Recv:  T:35.46 /0.00 B:48.16 /50.00 @:0 B@:20 W:?&#xA;Recv:  T:35.58 /0.00 B:48.13 /50.00 @:0 B@:21&#xA;Recv:  T:35.38 /0.00 B:48.17 /50.00 @:0 B@:19 W:?&#xA;Recv: echo:busy: processing&#xA;Recv:  T:35.44 /0.00 B:48.25 /50.00 @:0 B@:15 W:?&#xA;Recv:  T:35.35 /0.00 B:48.31 /50.00 @:0 B@:13 W:?&#xA;Recv:  T:35.46 /0.00 B:48.18 /50.00 @:0 B@:19&#xA;Recv: echo:busy: processing&#xA;Recv:  T:35.29 /0.00 B:48.19 /50.00 @:0 B@:19 W:?&#xA;Recv:  T:35.38 /0.00 B:48.19 /50.00 @:0 B@:19 W:?&#xA;Recv: echo:busy: processing&#xA;Recv:  T:35.28 /0.00 B:48.26 /50.00 @:0 B@:16 W:?&#xA;Recv:  T:35.38 /0.00 B:48.27 /50.00 @:0 B@:15&#xA;Recv:  T:35.38 /0.00 B:48.22 /50.00 @:0 B@:19 W:?&#xA;Recv: echo:busy: processing&#xA;Recv:  T:35.29 /0.00 B:48.12 /50.00 @:0 B@:24 W:?&#xA;Recv:  T:35.38 /0.00 B:48.24 /50.00 @:0 B@:17 W:?&#xA;Recv:  T:35.39 /0.00 B:48.29 /50.00 @:0 B@:15&#xA;Recv: echo:busy: processing&#xA;Recv:  T:35.39 /0.00 B:48.24 /50.00 @:0 B@:17 W:?&#xA;Recv:  T:35.39 /0.00 B:48.27 /50.00 @:0 B@:16 W:?&#xA;Recv: echo:busy: processing&#xA;Recv:  T:35.39 /0.00 B:48.27 /50.00 @:0 B@:16 W:?&#xA;Recv:  T:35.36 /0.00 B:48.22 /50.00 @:0 B@:19&#xA;Recv:  T:35.29 /0.00 B:48.24 /50.00 @:0 B@:18 W:?&#xA;Recv: echo:busy: processing&#xA;Recv:  T:35.46 /0.00 B:48.24 /50.00 @:0 B@:19 W:?&#xA;Recv:  T:35.27 /0.00 B:48.37 /50.00 @:0 B@:12 W:?&#xA;Recv:  T:35.24 /0.00 B:48.29 /50.00 @:0 B@:16&#xA;Recv: echo:busy: processing&#xA;Recv:  T:35.27 /0.00 B:48.23 /50.00 @:0 B@:20 W:?&#xA;Recv:  T:35.24 /0.00 B:48.26 /50.00 @:0 B@:18 W:?&#xA;Recv: echo:busy: processing&#xA;Recv:  T:35.32 /0.00 B:48.27 /50.00 @:0 B@:17 W:?&#xA;Recv:  T:35.32 /0.00 B:48.28 /50.00 @:0 B@:17&#xA;Recv:  T:35.33 /0.00 B:48.24 /50.00 @:0 B@:19 W:?&#xA;Recv: echo:busy: processing&#xA;Recv:  T:35.38 /0.00 B:48.32 /50.00 @:0 B@:15 W:?&#xA;Recv:  T:35.27 /0.00 B:48.18 /50.00 @:0 B@:23 W:?&#xA;Recv:  T:35.24 /0.00 B:48.34 /50.00 @:0 B@:14&#xA;Recv: echo:busy: processing&#xA;Recv:  T:35.24 /0.00 B:48.26 /50.00 @:0 B@:18 W:?&#xA;Recv:  T:35.22 /0.00 B:48.27 /50.00 @:0 B@:18 W:?&#xA;Recv: echo:busy: processing&#xA;Recv:  T:35.33 /0.00 B:48.19 /50.00 @:0 B@:22 W:?&#xA;Recv:  T:35.26 /0.00 B:48.24 /50.00 @:0 B@:19&#xA;Recv:  T:35.33 /0.00 B:48.33 /50.00 @:0 B@:15 W:?&#xA;Recv: echo:busy: processing&#xA;Recv:  T:35.30 /0.00 B:48.24 /50.00 @:0 B@:20 W:?&#xA;Recv:  T:35.21 /0.00 B:48.31 /50.00 @:0 B@:16 W:?&#xA;Recv:  T:35.27 /0.00 B:48.29 /50.00 @:0 B@:18&#xA;Recv: echo:busy: processing&#xA;Recv:  T:35.20 /0.00 B:48.23 /50.00 @:0 B@:21 W:?&#xA;Recv:  T:35.18 /0.00 B:48.31 /50.00 @:0 B@:17 W:?&#xA;Recv: echo:busy: processing&#xA;Recv:  T:35.29 /0.00 B:48.24 /50.00 @:0 B@:21 W:?&#xA;Recv:  T:35.07 /0.00 B:48.22 /50.00 @:0 B@:22&#xA;Recv:  T:35.14 /0.00 B:48.32 /50.00 @:0 B@:16 W:?&#xA;Recv: echo:busy: processing&#xA;Recv:  T:35.26 /0.00 B:48.41 /50.00 @:0 B@:12 W:?&#xA;Recv:  T:35.21 /0.00 B:48.31 /50.00 @:0 B@:17 W:?&#xA;Recv:  T:35.19 /0.00 B:48.33 /50.00 @:0 B@:16&#xA;Recv: echo:busy: processing&#xA;Recv:  T:35.10 /0.00 B:48.27 /50.00 @:0 B@:20 W:?&#xA;Recv:  T:35.14 /0.00 B:48.31 /50.00 @:0 B@:17 W:?&#xA;Recv: echo:busy: processing&#xA;Recv:  T:35.12 /0.00 B:48.36 /50.00 @:0 B@:15 W:?&#xA;Recv:  T:35.15 /0.00 B:48.24 /50.00 @:0 B@:22&#xA;Recv:  T:35.11 /0.00 B:48.32 /50.00 @:0 B@:17 W:?&#xA;Recv: echo:busy: processing&#xA;Recv:  T:35.10 /0.00 B:48.24 /50.00 @:0 B@:21 W:?&#xA;Recv:  T:35.06 /0.00 B:48.43 /50.00 @:0 B@:12 W:?&#xA;Recv:  T:35.12 /0.00 B:48.36 /50.00 @:0 B@:16&#xA;Recv: echo:busy: processing&#xA;Recv:  T:35.06 /0.00 B:48.25 /50.00 @:0 B@:22 W:?&#xA;Recv:  T:35.04 /0.00 B:48.35 /50.00 @:0 B@:16 W:?&#xA;Recv: echo:busy: processing&#xA;Recv:  T:35.11 /0.00 B:48.29 /50.00 @:0 B@:20 W:?&#xA;Recv:  T:35.13 /0.00 B:48.29 /50.00 @:0 B@:20&#xA;Recv:  T:35.11 /0.00 B:48.30 /50.00 @:0 B@:19 W:?&#xA;Unexpected error while reading serial port, please consult octoprint.log for details: SerialException: 'device reports readiness to read but returned no data (device disconnected or multiple access on port?)' @ comm.py:_readline:3997&#xA;Please see https://faq.octoprint.org/serialerror for possible reasons of this.&#xA;Changing monitoring state from &amp;quot;Operational&amp;quot; to &amp;quot;Offline after error&amp;quot;&#xA;Connection closed, closing down monitor&#xA;Changing monitoring state from &amp;quot;Offline&amp;quot; to &amp;quot;Detecting serial connection&amp;quot;&#xA;Performing autodetection with 1 port/baudrate candidates: /dev/ttyACM0@115200&#xA;Trying port /dev/ttyACM0, baudrate 115200&#xA;Connecting to port /dev/ttyACM0, baudrate 115200&#xA;Handshake attempt #1 with timeout 2.0s&#xA;Connected to: Serial&amp;lt;id=0x6885ced0, open=True&amp;gt;(port='/dev/ttyACM0', baudrate=115200, bytesize=8, parity='N', stopbits=1, timeout=2.0, xonxoff=False, rtscts=False, dsrdtr=False), starting monitor&#xA;Send: N0 M110 N0*125&#xA;Recv: Testing X connection... OK&#xA;Recv: Testing Y connection... OK&#xA;Recv: Testing Z connection... OK&#xA;Recv: Testing E connection... OK&#xA;Recv: echo:SD card ok&#xA;Recv: ok&#xA;Changing monitoring state from &amp;quot;Detecting serial connection&amp;quot; to &amp;quot;Operational&amp;quot;&#xA;Send: N0 M110 N0*125&#xA;Recv: ok&#xA;Send: N1 M115*39&#xA;Recv: FIRMWARE_NAME:Marlin bugfix-2.1.x (Mar  1 2023 16:28:19) SOURCE_CODE_URL:github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin PROTOCOL_VERSION:1.0 MACHINE_TYPE:3D Printer EXTRUDER_COUNT:1 UUID:cede2a2f-41a2-4748-9b12-c55c62f367ff&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37486" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2023-03-01T22:42:53.250" LastActivityDate="2023-03-01T22:42:53.250" Title="Ender 3 V2 with new SKR mini e3 v3 is heating up extremely slowly" Tags="|creality-ender-3|marlin|skr-mini-e3|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20646" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-03-02T09:52:03.670" Score="1" ViewCount="225" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Creality Ender 7 printer. I bought a CR Touch auto leveling sensor for it. After installing and uploading the firmware &lt;code&gt;Ender-7-hw-V24S1_101-sw-V2.0.1-ALT.bin&lt;/code&gt; in the Creality slicer, I only added the &lt;code&gt;G29&lt;/code&gt; entry. After setting the bed manually, I've done it probably 7 times (the principle of a sheet of paper and spinning circles) and adjusting the Z-axis shift, I have the impression that CR Touch would not work well because the test printout of 5 squares does not look good. Some lines are thin, and barely visible and some are thick and slightly jagged. Below I am posting G-code from Creality Slicer and a photo after ABL from the position of the display.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What else do I have to set so that my prints are correct, even perfect? I bought this sensor so that the first layer would be perfect. I will only add that I had better-quality prints without the sensor. I tried to print with the note &lt;code&gt;G29&lt;/code&gt; and without. The effects were the same. Something went wrong after installing it and now it's wrong. I am asking for a hint, preferably a ready G-code for CR Touch, and instructions on what I need to do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/blWL5.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Photo of the Ender 7 display showing the bed mesh after leveling&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/blWL5.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Photo of the Ender 7 display showing the bed mesh after leveling&quot; title=&quot;Photo of the Ender 7 display showing the bed mesh after leveling&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37492" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2023-03-02T14:26:55.647" LastActivityDate="2023-03-02T14:26:55.647" Title="Ender 7 CR touch work problem" Tags="|bed-leveling|creality|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20647" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20648" CreationDate="2023-03-02T11:56:17.853" Score="0" ViewCount="195" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to print with ABS plastic. I've only used PLA before. I'm using Anycubic Kobra Neo (Heated, PEI-coated bed). Originally, I just changed my plastic to ABS and tried printing with manufacturer-provided profile (80/230 degrees), without changing Z-offset or any other details. However, plastic just didn't stick to the bed. Since then, I've tried:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Increasing temperatures to 90/240&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Increasing and decreasing extrusion force&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Increasing and decresing Z-offset&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Performing autolevelling&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Checking that it extrudes properly without print (using filament loading procedure)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Nothing seems to help. Every time, it starts printing the &amp;quot;border&amp;quot; (not sure how it is called) more or less fine:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qcPPb.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qcPPb.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Border image&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But then it either leaves peaces of plastic on the bed, or they just stick to the extruder:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sYzYI.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sYzYI.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Extruder picture&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any other steps I should check to ensure proper adhesion? I'm aware that it is recommended to use things like glue to increase adhesion when printing ABS, but I thought it is possible to print without them if the bed is heated and has PEI (or other) special coating.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37493" LastActivityDate="2023-03-02T18:09:31.907" Title="What should one do to ensure ABS sticks to bed?" Tags="|extrusion|abs|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20648" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20647" CreationDate="2023-03-02T18:09:31.907" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use glue sticks around the footprint of what you will be printing.  Never had a problem after that. Another alternative is to use some masking tape.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37497" LastActivityDate="2023-03-02T18:09:31.907" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20650" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-03-03T05:48:31.963" Score="2" ViewCount="981" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm using a Creality Ender 3 printer with 1.75 mm PLA filament. The print model has a 0.8 mm thick rectangular base. The design contains a couple of shapes (mainly circles and a cross) that stick out an otherwise flat rectangle. The circles and the cross stick out by 0.8 mm. The bottom of the model is flat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it possible to stack multiple models on each other using Cura if the top of the model is not flat (as shown in the image below)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CEcPF.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Screenshot of a rectangular 3D model with circles and a cross on top in Cura&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CEcPF.png&quot; alt=&quot;Screenshot of a rectangular 3D model with circles and a cross on top in Cura&quot; title=&quot;Screenshot of a rectangular 3D model with circles and a cross on top in Cura&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19302" LastEditorUserId="36802" LastEditDate="2023-12-01T12:39:56.087" LastActivityDate="2023-12-01T12:39:56.087" Title="Is it possible to stack multiple models on each other using Cura if the top of the model is not flat?" Tags="|print-quality|ultimaker-cura|3d-models|slicing|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20651" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20650" CreationDate="2023-03-03T09:33:15.533" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Although theoretically it should be possible to stack objects vertically, Cura does not support it out of the box. You will need to change the following configuration under the [Preferences] menu to allow objects to be placed on top of each other:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Automatically drop models to the build plate&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ensure models are kept apart&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WZf6n.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WZf6n.png&quot; alt=&quot;screenshot of settings&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a bit tedious, but it works.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A different approach would be to make a single model of stacked elements in your 3D modeling software. stacked elements would simply fuse the elements to 1 model, so leave some space between them for the slicer to be able to generate supports. This solution would work, but produce a lot of support material and a terrible rough surface on both sides of the cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This solution screams &amp;quot;laser-engraved plywood&amp;quot; by the way. Maybe someone nearby can cheaply help you out?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4708" LastEditorUserId="4708" LastEditDate="2023-03-03T09:39:48.790" LastActivityDate="2023-03-03T09:39:48.790" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20652" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20656" CreationDate="2023-03-03T16:20:03.610" Score="0" ViewCount="61" Body="&lt;p&gt;What are some science/engineering journals on the topic of 3D printing with high impact factor? To publish a paper about the analysis of 3D models before printing them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11091" LastActivityDate="2023-03-05T07:41:57.720" Title="Science/engineering journals with high impact factor" Tags="|3d-models|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20654" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7756" CreationDate="2023-03-04T16:24:17.300" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can use other slicers with a Makerbot Replicator 5th gen. &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.simplify3d.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Simplify&lt;/a&gt; works pretty well so I'd look into that. It's not free but a good program.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;All&lt;/em&gt; the slicer needs to be able to do is export in &lt;code&gt;.makerbot&lt;/code&gt; so Simplify is the only other slicer I have found.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37518" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2023-03-04T17:33:22.377" LastActivityDate="2023-03-04T17:33:22.377" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20655" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20650" CreationDate="2023-03-04T21:40:00.063" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;This print will not stack reasonably, unless you have a multi-material printer that can use a separate material and zero gap supports.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Flat bottom surfaces are particularly bad for printing on top of supports; they will not squish right, producing inaccurate thickness and a surface finish that's very visibly made from strands of filament, possibly not even bonded fully to one another. On top of that, supports will mar the surface of the object below them. You can avoid that with tree supports that come in from the sides, but that requires a large vertical gap between objects.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For this particular print, have you considered printing them all on their sides, stacked horizontally? It will give a different finish and less strength but would make it easy to print lots on a plate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2023-03-04T21:40:00.063" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20656" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20652" CreationDate="2023-03-05T06:49:55.480" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think this one is acceptable: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.sciencedirect.com/journal/additive-manufacturing&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Additive Manufacturing&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It has an &lt;code&gt;11.632&lt;/code&gt; Impact Factor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, it has the &lt;em&gt;preprint&lt;/em&gt; feature mentioned &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.elsevier.com/journals/additive-manufacturing/2214-8604/guide-for-authors&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In support of Open Science, this journal offers its authors a free&#xA;preprint posting service. Preprints provide early registration and&#xA;dissemination of your research, which facilitates early citations and&#xA;collaboration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;During submission to Editorial Manager, you can choose to release your&#xA;manuscript publicly as a preprint on the preprint server SSRN once it&#xA;enters peer-review with the journal. Your choice will have no effect&#xA;on the editorial process or outcome with the journal. ...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will be notified via email when your preprint is posted online and&#xA;a Digital Object Identifier (DOI) is assigned. Your preprint will&#xA;remain globally available free to read whether the journal accepts or&#xA;rejects your manuscript.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11091" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2023-03-05T07:41:57.720" LastActivityDate="2023-03-05T07:41:57.720" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20657" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-03-05T07:51:56.017" Score="1" ViewCount="41" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an Ender 3 Pro with 4.2.2 controller board and BLTouch fitted, currently running Marlin Bugfix 2.0 firmware.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I needed to fit a new printer hot end and thermistor, but now the temperature is going wild and fluctuates up and down substantially from the pre-set temperature. The printer won't print and after a short time of E heating, it then displays an error.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have looked at every video I can find and all the instructions I can find as to how to fix the problem and do a PID autotune but none of them match my firmware. I don't have the commands they say to go to. Creality must have released hundreds of different versions and none of what I can find match mine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can someone please give me detailed instructions on how I might be able to fix the problem. Most instructions I see on the web leave out at least 50 % of what you need to know. They tell you to go to certain commands in the firmware but in most cases those commands do not exist in mine. Any assistance would be greatly appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37527" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2023-03-05T13:00:00.543" LastActivityDate="2023-03-05T13:00:00.543" Title="Creality Ender 3 Pro 3D Printer" Tags="|creality-ender-3|hotend|heat-management|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20658" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20650" CreationDate="2023-03-05T15:54:53.783" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Consider changing the model by having the top surface features as shallow depressions instead of raised areas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Adding a series of small raised nubs to the top surfaces would make for easier separation of the pieces and would be fairly easily removed from the top surfaces after separating the layers. The bottoms would likely be pretty ugly from sagging, however.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="33030" LastActivityDate="2023-03-05T15:54:53.783" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20659" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-03-07T06:34:43.783" Score="2" ViewCount="121" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm having this weird issue; for some weird reason, the infill pattern starts separating from the walls and over time, the print becomes a mess. As it separates, it starts to curve, and you get this curved end rather than a pointing edge that touches the wall.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Strangely, for the first 4-5 mm of print (which is a lot of layers), the print goes all OK. Not sure what is the issue here, hardware, temperature settings or something else?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm using a Prusa I3 MK3S+ with Cura as slicer and printed it on 210/60 °C hot end/bed temperature with 0.6 mm nozzle (I'm using a 0.4 mm layer height with adjustable layer height, but that didn't kick in yet, the print is a very simple box). The filament is eSun PLA+.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3nkVg.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Issue with the infill edges&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3nkVg.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Issue with the infill edges&quot; title=&quot;Issue with the infill edges&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37553" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2023-03-07T07:40:53.407" LastActivityDate="2023-03-07T07:40:53.407" Title="Weird infill edge problem" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|prusa-i3|infill|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20660" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20663" CreationDate="2023-03-08T16:28:14.613" Score="1" ViewCount="103" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a classic Ender 3 running Marlin-2.1.1 on a BTT SKR v1.3 board with TMC 2130 drivers. Wifi is connected with ESP3D on an ESP32-CAM board connected to a TFT port. The X endstop is on the left side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I send &lt;code&gt;G28&lt;/code&gt; or &lt;code&gt;G28 X&lt;/code&gt;, the hotend does not home properly.&#xA;Rather the hotend just moves a little to the right side (like 3 mm) and stops.&#xA;So if I keep on sending &lt;code&gt;G28 X&lt;/code&gt;, the hotend just moves little by little to the right side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://files.fm/u/u4t8m3dna&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;configuration files&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36243" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2023-03-09T04:21:04.503" LastActivityDate="2023-03-09T04:21:04.503" Title="G28 X does not home the hotend" Tags="|marlin|homing|axis|ender3|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20661" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20636" CreationDate="2023-03-08T16:37:43.483" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;6.5 mm retraction seems to be way too high. Try lowering it to 3 mm or even 2 mm. (I have my Ender set to 2 mm).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sub&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Disclaimer&lt;/strong&gt;: My knowledge of this topic is not extensive. Nonetheless, below is what I currently know. Make sure to read the comments below for more info.&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of the most important parameters when deciding on the retraction value is the length of the Bowden tube. The longer the tube, the higher the retraction value should be set. It has to do filament compression as the extruder is pushing filament into a nozzle. The longer the distance between the extruder and nozzle, the more filament there is that can be compressed, therefore, the higher the retraction value you need to set to avoid too much filament coming out of the nozzle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With all that said, based on my personal experience and the experience of my friends who own this printer, for a stock Ender 3 the value of 5-6 mm retraction is too high. Some of my friends' printers make good prints with retraction set to 3 mm. My printer likes the value of 2 mm better, for whatever reason (I modified the extruder and hot end on my printer, maybe that has to do with it).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3D printers kind of &amp;quot;have personalities&amp;quot; and require tinkering around for you to find out the correct values for your prints. Modifications, filament type, filament brand, and many other things/parameters can and do cause requiring changes to your printing values.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So tinker around and see if lowering retraction values gives you better prints.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16769" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2023-03-08T19:00:43.543" LastActivityDate="2023-03-08T19:00:43.543" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20662" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20636" CreationDate="2023-03-08T19:48:44.560" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have noticed issues like this to happen for me due to what I mention below. I would check each of these and attempt to further narrow down the problem. It is the nature of 3D printing with how different each print shape, machine, and filament being used are, so it is difficult to provide exact settings advice to fix an issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Retraction speed &amp;amp; distance&lt;/strong&gt; - with the incorrect combination you can cause your printer over time to extrude less at certain layers. The problem compounds over time and becomes apparent on prints that have a lot more retraction steps than others. It is important that any time you change to a new brand or type of filament, you run certain temperature and speed test prints. There are certain models that can be downloaded online on &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Thingiverse&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.printables.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Printables&lt;/a&gt; websites that test for print quality based on differences of retraction speeds, temperature, overhang angle, cooling settings, etc. &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/@TeachingTech&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Teaching Tech&lt;/a&gt; (YouTube link), for example, offers a very comprehensive array of tests and procedures for calibrating your printer. I suggest visiting his &lt;a href=&quot;https://teachingtechyt.github.io/calibration.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;website&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Bowden tube lubrication&lt;/strong&gt; - Something like a Capricorn™ tube offers less resistance as the filament is sliding through the tube as compared to the Bowden tube that comes with your printer. Increased friction in the Bowden tube will cause inconsistent extrusion of the filament due to impeding the acceleration and speed as the filament is moving back and forth in the tube. Furthermore, it will exhibit different resistance based on how the filament is resting within the Bowden tube while it is flexing as the print head is moving. Lubricating your filament with a little bit of olive oil every few prints will help in this regard in addition to purchasing a higher quality Bowden tube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Extruder drive gear tension&lt;/strong&gt; - the point where your filament is biting into the cogs of the extruder needs to be very tight. The spring on the extruder pulley clamp needs to constantly exert enough pressure for the cogs to really dig into the filament. This is important because if the bite is not good enough, it will cause inconsistent extrusion when rapid accelerations happen such as when retractions occur. It is good practice that every few prints to manually push on the pulleys together as over time the spring will degrade and become weaker.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6330" LastEditorUserId="854" LastEditDate="2023-03-08T21:52:35.587" LastActivityDate="2023-03-08T21:52:35.587" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20663" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20660" CreationDate="2023-03-09T02:32:22.043" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This indicates that the printer thinks the endstop is already triggered and is trying to back off to untrigger it, so that it can probe. If a minimal move to the right does not untrigger it, it gives up, assuming something is wrong with the endstop. Either your endstop switch is broken or it's not connected. A disconnected endstop switch will behave identically to one that's stuck down (open circuit).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2023-03-09T02:32:22.043" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20664" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20665" CreationDate="2023-03-09T04:33:35.677" Score="3" ViewCount="879" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've an Ender 3 and a piece broke.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The part that is broken is on top of the Z stepper motor that guides the filament to the extruder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The metal &amp;quot;guide wheel&amp;quot; that hugs the filament as its pushed through, the plate beneath it broke. I dropped a socket wrench on it. -- it's just sitting there in the photo, but it's not doing it job.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do I have to replace the whole stepper motor or can I just get the feeder thing that sits on top of the motor?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ouABu.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;This thing...&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ouABu.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;This thing...&quot; title=&quot;This thing...&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know what it's called so it's tough to search for&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26428" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2023-03-11T10:08:54.603" LastActivityDate="2023-03-30T04:15:19.413" Title="Replacing (and identification) of a broken piece of the extruder" Tags="|creality-ender-3|extruder|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20665" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20664" CreationDate="2023-03-09T10:29:18.960" Score="4" Body="&lt;h4&gt;Replacing the broken part&lt;/h4&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You certainly don't need to buy a &lt;em&gt;whole&lt;/em&gt; new extruder assembly, including a stepper motor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could just buy a new extruder mechanism, and upgrade from the  plastic&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; extruder, to a metal (aluminium(?)) extruder, such as the one (apparently) sold by Creality themselves, such as this&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;https://store.creality.com/products/metal-extruder-kit-red&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Metal Extruder Kit (Red)&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SV0nC.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Metal Extruder Kit (Red)&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SV0nC.png&quot; alt=&quot;Metal Extruder Kit (Red)&quot; title=&quot;Metal Extruder Kit (Red)&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, if you just need a certain piece of the extruder (from your photo, I can't tell which part is broken), you could search for that, although, it would probably be cheaper just to buy the whole thing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As to the name of the particular part that is broken, again, it is difficult to tell from the photo which part is actually broken. If you could add an annotated photo or more explicitly show the broken part, then it would be easier to provide a name of the actual part.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, after re-reading your question, I &lt;em&gt;think&lt;/em&gt; that you may be referring to the whole black assembly - along with the spring, brass knurled nut, pulley/bearing, and associated bolts - that sits on the stepper motor... if so, then that is the &lt;strong&gt;extruder&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h4&gt;Identifying the parts of an extruder&lt;/h4&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It can be confusing knowing exactly what the names of the &lt;em&gt;various parts of the extruder&lt;/em&gt; are - seeing as the entire extruder assembly (including the hotend and stepper motor) is often referred to as the extruder, either individually or as a whole.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are a couple of images that map out the various parts of the extruder assembly:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the excellent &lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/wiki/Category:Extruders&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;RepRapWiki - Extruders&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/94ebr.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Annotated extruder diagram&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/94ebr.png&quot; alt=&quot;Annotated extruder diagram&quot; title=&quot;Annotated extruder diagram&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.matterhackers.com/articles/extruders-101:-a-crash-course-on-an-essential-component-of-your-3d-printer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Extruders 101: A crash course on an essential component of your 3D printer&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lnAYp.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Annotated extruder photo&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lnAYp.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Annotated extruder photo&quot; title=&quot;Annotated extruder photo&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The &lt;em&gt;hobbed bolt&lt;/em&gt;, is sometimes referred to as the &lt;em&gt;knurled bolt&lt;/em&gt; or &lt;em&gt;knurled nut&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The idler wheel is (generally) just a bearing&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;h4&gt;Footnotes&lt;/h4&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; As &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/20664/replacing-and-identification-of-a-broken-piece-of-the-extruder/20665?noredirect=1#comment39442_20665&quot;&gt;confirmed in the comments&lt;/a&gt;, the extruder that comes with the non-pro version of the Ender 3 is plastic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; I'm not recommending this seller, nor am I sure that they are genuine Creality parts... this is just an example for what you need to be looking for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4762" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2023-03-28T07:25:55.977" LastActivityDate="2023-03-28T07:25:55.977" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20667" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12033" CreationDate="2023-03-09T18:23:07.930" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;This isn't melting, it is wear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And it isn't typical wear you would expect due to abrasion.   It is wear caused by retraction.   As your filament retracts (usually between parts of the model to reduce stringing), the semi-molten filament is sucked back into the tube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then, when the filament is unretracted, the filament is pushed back into the nozzle.   However, in the meantime, a little of the filament solidified on the PTFE wall.   PTFE is very slippery, so the solidified chunk is peeled off the wall no problems - but it takes with it a tiny bit of the inside of the tube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do that hundreds of thousands of times, and the wall of the tube gets thinned at that point until it fails.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One solution to this is to reduce retraction.   Notice how the distance between the worn bit and the end of the tube is always the retraction distance in millimeters?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another solution is an all metal hotend.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or just trim your bowden tube shorter by a few mm every hundred hours of printing or so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37578" LastActivityDate="2023-03-09T18:23:07.930" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20670" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4527" CreationDate="2023-03-10T17:12:32.063" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Stratasys Uprint is a professional ABS 3D printer and it does not use a heated bed. If you get the enclosure hot enough it should not matter if you have a heated bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37588" LastActivityDate="2023-03-10T17:12:32.063" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20671" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20524" CreationDate="2023-03-10T17:55:18.863" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think I may have found part of the problem. I had been messing with the settings in my slicer to let me print using the entire bed and I had accidentally shifted the model and it allowed it to be sliced which told the printer to print too far off to the right of the bed. The machine had to interpret how to print locations that its hardware wasn't capable of and this was what it decided to do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37086" LastActivityDate="2023-03-10T17:55:18.863" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20672" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20729" CreationDate="2023-03-11T08:38:11.530" Score="0" ViewCount="112" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm working on tuning an old Ultimaker 2 Go, and I'm having some weird extrusion issues. The printer uses a Bowden extruder. Extrusion seems to increase and decrease. I don't think it is the filament quality, as I am using Prusament PLA that I am storing in a dark closet inside a sealed bag with silica gel. I also did multiple cold pulls until no debris. I do notice that sometimes the filament appears to bubble. The extruding motor also sometimes slips/snaps back while changing filament, but not during prints.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I am using 1.75 mm filament while the printer is designed for 2.85 mm. In order to do this, I followed some steps I found from All3D.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also have a small PVC jig to hold the filament, but I think it turns pretty well and shouldn't be the issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Filament: PLA, Temp: 215 °C, Slicer: Cura&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9mGf2.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;1&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*Update:&#xA;I calibrated the e-steps and all of the axes, but the problem still remains.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also printed an XYZ cube, and there is a line right under the letters X and Y. It also appears that the extrusion is more inconsistent outside of the letters. I'm pretty sure this issue is related to the weird first-layer pattern, or this is just a cooling issue due to varying cooling %.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Filament: PLA, Temp: 215 °C, Slicer: PrusaSlicer&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8YrlZ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;1&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37597" LastEditorUserId="37597" LastEditDate="2023-03-13T23:54:22.487" LastActivityDate="2023-03-25T21:42:15.080" Title="Weird Pattern First Layer Extrusion" Tags="|extrusion|bowden|ultimaker|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20673" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20672" CreationDate="2023-03-11T11:30:48.670" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You have a number of &amp;quot;red flags&amp;quot; in your process. Using filament of a size different from the design's filament specification would be one of them. Bubbles in the filament may mean moisture, regardless of the storage method. Reddit contains a number of posts from users who have presented before and after (dehydration) photos of parts created from new-from-the-box filament. You suggest that the motor does not slip during prints, but there's also reference that it happens in other actions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In order to pin down a solution, address the filament size by using the correct filament. Use a dehydrator to ensure that the filament contains no moisture. Using correct diameter filament will also cover the slipping extruder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you address these issues and tune the printer appropriately, you may discover that using the smaller diameter filament is going to be a compromise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastActivityDate="2023-03-11T11:30:48.670" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20675" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21434" CreationDate="2023-03-12T04:36:50.020" Score="1" ViewCount="81" Body="&lt;h1&gt;Resin specifications&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are datasheets available for SLA resin mechanical properties. Like this &lt;a href=&quot;https://formlabs-media.formlabs.com/datasheets/1801089-TDS-ENUS-0P.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Formlabs' General Purpose Resin datasheet&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They present mechanical properties for two cases.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;First case&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Data was obtained from green parts, printed using Form 2, 100 μm, Clear settings, without additional treatments.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Second case&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Data was obtained from parts printed using Form 2, 100 μm, Clear settings and post-cured with 1.25 mW/cm² of 405 nm LED light for 60 minutes at 60 °C.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Table&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BWMpk.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BWMpk.png&quot; alt=&quot;Screenshot&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Question&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I need to know the mechanical properties immediately after the resin is hardened by the projected light. Would the &lt;em&gt;first case&lt;/em&gt; above provide my desired info?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11091" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2023-09-16T13:44:28.057" LastActivityDate="2023-09-19T09:50:10.640" Title="Resin mechanical properties during the print process, immediately after light hardens it" Tags="|resin|print-material|sla|print-strength|dlp|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20676" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-03-12T08:28:14.137" Score="2" ViewCount="90" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've just got a brand new Sovol SV04 IDEX printer.&#xA;After struggling for days on bed levelling, I came out with an almost decent alignment.&#xA;So I printed the well-known boat to test a dual print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here the results:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3756P.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3756P.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ssvrt.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ssvrt.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tM8d4.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tM8d4.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0CwY8.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0CwY8.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you can see it's a complete mess. There are tons of failures.&#xA;I used all the default settings for SV04 and the PLA they put inside the pack.&#xA;Here what I see:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the only thing that worked almost flawlessly is the first layer (!)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;there are a mis-alignment (wrong offset?) between the two nozzles&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the layers are not &amp;quot;glued&amp;quot; together&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;little oozing (inside the cabin)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;stringing and, I don't know how to name it, a lot of &amp;quot;filaments&amp;quot; floating around, I guess when one of the nozzle start/end printing (switch color)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;again, not sure how to name it, very poor precision (over extruding?) for example in the blue part of the chimney&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I bought my Dremel 3D45 it worked out at the first try.&#xA;Now I'm pretty lost among all these failures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My questions are simple:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;help to confirm all the above issues and to find out others&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;please, give me an idea about the most useful approach to fix them (I mean the order, then I can read tutorials out there)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know which ones should be addressed first, in order to avoid to follow the wrong way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21979" LastActivityDate="2023-03-13T10:51:00.400" Title="Help to find out all the failures in first IDEX test" Tags="|print-quality|pla|bed-leveling|dual-nozzle|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20678" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-03-13T02:04:53.707" Score="3" ViewCount="391" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is the Sprite Extruder Pro Kit the correct kit to replace my extruder on my CR 10 Pro Smart or is there another option from Creality?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37026" LastActivityDate="2023-03-13T04:04:06.927" Title="Replacement Extruder for CR10 Pro Smart" Tags="|extruder|creality-cr-10|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20679" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20678" CreationDate="2023-03-13T04:04:06.927" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It does seem so. Both the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.creality3dofficial.com/products/sprite-extruder-direct&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Creality Official site&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B09SV276FX&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Amazon product page&lt;/a&gt; list the CR 10 Smart Pro as compatible printers for this extruder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as another option from Creality, to my knowledge, the Sprite Extruder is the only extruder that Creality makes/sells. (If there is another, I will update)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23193" LastActivityDate="2023-03-13T04:04:06.927" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20680" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20676" CreationDate="2023-03-13T10:51:00.400" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;My experience with dual color printing comes from Ultimaker printers, which are very well tuned, for an IDEX design I'm working on I have been thinking how to solve these issues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The poor print quality is caused by various issues:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Positioning, geometry&#xA;To get the positioning correct you can make use of the G-code &lt;a href=&quot;https://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M218.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;M218&lt;/a&gt; where you can specify the X and Y offset for the other nozzles. Your first/default tool/nozzle is &lt;code&gt;T0&lt;/code&gt;, the generic G-code is &lt;code&gt;M218 T&amp;lt;index&amp;gt; X&amp;lt;offset&amp;gt; Y&amp;lt;offset&amp;gt; Z&amp;lt;offset&amp;gt;&lt;/code&gt; where you substitute the strings including the angle brackets (omit options you don't want to change) for the respective value you find from test prints (printing directional lines with multiple tools, X and Y) or finding the correct Z-offset for each nozzle. See also &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/20463/z-offset-multiple-heads-on-tool-change&quot;&gt;Z-Offset Multiple Heads on Tool Change&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&amp;quot;Strings&amp;quot;&#xA;Technically this is not the well known defect called &amp;quot;stringing&amp;quot;, your strings are rather thick and hint to incorrect handling of the filament retraction/extrusion (e.g. oozing due to prolonged exposure to high temperature when in idle state?) in your tool change script. It also may be very beneficial to print a sacrificial color changing (priming) tower.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2023-03-13T10:51:00.400" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20681" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20828" CreationDate="2023-03-13T18:58:15.983" Score="1" ViewCount="635" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently upgraded to &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.simplify3d.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Simplify3D&lt;/a&gt; version 5.  With this version, I can now print over WiFi to my Qidi X-Pro.  I run an Eero mesh network and the printer is about 6 feet from the router.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried printing a model with this version over WiFi and received the following error on the Qidi console:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Illegal gcode in line: xxxx, P_4, T_10470103!&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On a second attempt, I received:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Illegal gcode in line xxxx, P_$, T10470000!&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The same models print correctly if saved to a USB stick first and then inserted into the printer.  I've been in contact with Simplify3d support, but, they can't recreate the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has anyone encountered this problem?  Do you know of a fix?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23798" LastEditorUserId="23798" LastEditDate="2023-04-13T18:42:47.433" LastActivityDate="2023-04-13T18:43:51.810" Title="Illegal G-code when trying to print" Tags="|g-code|simplify3d|wi-fi|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20682" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-03-13T20:24:12.310" Score="0" ViewCount="1947" Body="&lt;p&gt;I upgraded my Ender 3 with the CR Touch, and updated the firmware (contacted Creality directly to get the correct version). I got Marlin 2.0.6. However when I try the bed levelling feature the first point (nearest to the origin), always starts with the probe out of the range of the bed. While going down the nozzle hits the bed and the procedure is aborted. Not sure what is going wrong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37621" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2023-03-13T22:53:46.733" LastActivityDate="2023-03-13T22:53:46.733" Title="Ender 3 CR Touch Bed Levelling X axis offset" Tags="|creality-ender-3|bed-leveling|glass-bed|ender3|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20685" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-03-14T18:51:27.567" Score="1" ViewCount="157" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have enabled UBL in Marlin firmware for my Ender 3 Pro and generated a mesh which probed the whole bed normally as expected.   However when I use the menu option to Validate Mesh, the whole test print seems to several inches diagonally away from the 0,0,0 home point (see photo).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know what the cause might be or what information I could usefully provide to solve the problem, but here is my configuration.h:  &lt;a href=&quot;https://pastebin.com/yZkWcMki&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://pastebin.com/yZkWcMki&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PAjRE.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PAjRE.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23104" LastActivityDate="2023-03-14T18:51:27.567" Title="&quot;Validate Mesh&quot; in Marlin causes whole test print to be offset from the bed (home)" Tags="|creality-ender-3|marlin|troubleshooting|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20686" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-03-15T18:09:25.377" Score="0" ViewCount="445" Body="&lt;p&gt;I followed the instruction &lt;a href=&quot;https://community.ultimaker.com/topic/41296-cura-for-sovol-sv04/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/10574&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; and I'm trying to connect my Sovol SV04 with Cura in order to enable the &amp;quot;Monitor&amp;quot; page.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I connect the USB cable, Ubuntu 22.04 creates the serial port. I'm able to open it with a serial terminal and to send G-Code commands. The printer acts according.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But when I try to open the Monitor page in Cura 5.2.2 it just says it cannot find the printer:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NSN7A.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NSN7A.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;but without any error message or other useful information.&#xA;What am I missing here?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21979" LastActivityDate="2023-03-15T18:09:25.377" Title="Cura does not connect to Sovol SV04" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|usb|serial-connection|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20687" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-03-15T20:08:40.423" Score="0" ViewCount="100" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Creality Ender 3 Pro, the platform goes to the right rear every time I try to start a print job. I do not know what to do. I am not very savvy on computer software, but I need some help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried using the 3D pad with the same results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did a factory reset, using original controller, same results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Back to the 3D pad, factory reset, same results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am using the Creality Slicer. When I select Auto Home, the platform returns to the front left side. When I try to print anything, it goes back to the right rear an sets there, dumping filament.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37638" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2023-03-16T09:01:42.487" LastActivityDate="2023-03-16T09:01:42.487" Title="I have an Ender-3 Pro, the platform goes to the right rear every time I try to start a print job" Tags="|creality-ender-3|bed|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20688" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14168" CreationDate="2023-03-15T22:21:40.457" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you compiled your own firmware using visual studio code, use platformio's inspector found on the platformio homepage to make sure there are no memory overrun issues. You must read the whole prompt because sometimes it will not explicitly state that there is an issue&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37640" LastActivityDate="2023-03-15T22:21:40.457" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20689" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21085" CreationDate="2023-03-16T01:34:19.817" Score="0" ViewCount="1190" Body="&lt;p&gt;When my Ender 3 was on the stock motherboard, I went through two BLTouch sensors.  In both cases, we had the same result: sometimes, when homing with the sensor, the printer would jam the gantry down into the bed because it would miss the sensor.  When leveling, it would intermittently stop before it had completed all the steps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alas, since I have a glass bed I cannot use the Z-axis limit switch for homing (without mechanical modification, anyways.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I installed a BigTreeTech SKR mini e3 motherboard.  Motion control works fine.  In fact, it's much, much quieter.  Sadly, still have lousy results (although I've only tried one sensor on this one.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Z Limit switch plugged in: The BLTouch Deploys.  The board totally ignores the sensor (even when I shove it home with my fingers on the way down) and drives into the board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Z Limit switch not plugged in: The BLTouch seems to deploy and stow over and over again.  Then, the printer just says &amp;quot;STOPPED&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone have any suggestions?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(I think I've been using the same wire this whole time, for what that's worth.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="34543" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2023-03-16T03:16:10.200" LastActivityDate="2023-06-22T14:44:26.530" Title="Ender 3 BLTouch not working with BigTreeTech SKR mini e3 or stock motherboard" Tags="|creality-ender-3|bed-leveling|bltouch|bigtreetech|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20690" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-03-16T20:26:08.027" Score="1" ViewCount="117" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a mechanical switch connected to a RAMPS 1.4 board that detects when my laser has run in to something.  Right now, I have it set as a Z limit, so if I move too far in the Z and crash the laser in to something, it stops but I can still back away.  That works great, but is there a simple configuration change in marlin so that it also disables the X and Y movement?  This switch can detect impact to the laser from any direction, so I'd like to protect against X or Y movements snapping the laser off sideways.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The desired behavior is:  if the switch is closed, everything acts normally, but if the switch is open, its only possible to move in the -z direction (which moves the stage down away from the laser).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this is not a configuration change, does anyone have a hint on where in the marlin code to start making changes?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37649" LastActivityDate="2023-03-16T20:26:08.027" Title="Is there a marlin setting to disable XY axes when Z endstop triggered?" Tags="|marlin|safety|endstop|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20693" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20694" CreationDate="2023-03-17T06:40:20.603" Score="2" ViewCount="115" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use &amp;quot;Flashprint 5&amp;quot; as a 3D print pre-processing software. I want to have a 0-degree raster angle for all its layers (100 % infill density), in the attached object below. But what I found is that each layer always alternates to 90 degrees. Any solution for this case?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cA0uO.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Raster Angle 0 degree (above) and 90 degree (below)&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cA0uO.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Raster Angle 0 degree (above) and 90 degree (below)&quot; title=&quot;Raster Angle 0 degree (above) and 90 degree (below)&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37656" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2023-03-17T08:04:32.710" LastActivityDate="2023-03-18T18:20:12.893" Title="How to make constant raster angle on Flashprint 5?" Tags="|diy-3d-printer|flashforge-creator|flashprint|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20694" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20693" CreationDate="2023-03-17T08:47:03.470" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Looking at Flashprint expert mode, I don't seem to find options to change this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any solution for this case?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes there is by using a different slicer, e.g. Ultimaker Cura. In Cura you will be able to specify the directions of the infill layers as you want them to be using the &lt;code&gt;Infill Line Directions&lt;/code&gt; printing property. Default the property is empty (&lt;code&gt;[  ]&lt;/code&gt;), but could be changed to &lt;code&gt;[90, 90]&lt;/code&gt; or &lt;code&gt;[0, 0]&lt;/code&gt; (or any other arbitrary angle).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Print option is found under &lt;code&gt;Infill&lt;/code&gt;:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FokDJ.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FokDJ.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Layer 60:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7CqgJ.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7CqgJ.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;br&gt;Layer 61:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KaJpw.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KaJpw.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can take this even further in Cura by specifying directions for more than 2 layers, e.g. &lt;code&gt;[-45, 0, 45, 90]&lt;/code&gt; will give you an alternating pattern of 4 layers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2023-03-18T18:20:12.893" LastActivityDate="2023-03-18T18:20:12.893" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20695" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-03-17T10:51:44.033" Score="3" ViewCount="29" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to model a &amp;quot;mushroom-like&amp;quot; object. I created the stem and the top part and shelled them to a body with 5mm walls. I also need to split the top part into two parts which I will later on fit one over the other (I need to place some components inside the mushroom).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried to use the split tool to do it but it failed with a &amp;quot;Compute failed&amp;quot; error and I'm not sure what I'm doing wrong...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is the &lt;a href=&quot;https://drive.google.com/file/d/1JVnfxSn3SHt9A2gUfyynLznD-mzK7UfC/view?usp=sharing&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;code&gt;f3d&lt;/code&gt; file&lt;/a&gt;, but I also attach screenshots here as it might be easier..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the object itself:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/f6XWo.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;&amp;quot;Mushroom-like&amp;quot; object&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/f6XWo.png&quot; alt=&quot;&amp;quot;Mushroom-like&amp;quot; object&quot; title=&quot;&amp;quot;Mushroom-like&amp;quot; object&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A cross section of the mushroom top and the splitting surface I've created (just revolved a line to create a cone):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1IbW4.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Cross section of the mushroom top and the splitting surface&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1IbW4.png&quot; alt=&quot;Cross section of the mushroom top and the splitting surface&quot; title=&quot;Cross section of the mushroom top and the splitting surface&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Notice that the top of the cone doesn't touch the body. I originally thought that this could be the problem but it didn't help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I use the splitting tool I don't check the &amp;quot;extend splitting tools&amp;quot;, but get a &amp;quot;Compute Failed&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas? If I'm doing it wrong - is there any other way that I could split the object?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37659" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2023-03-17T10:56:02.527" LastActivityDate="2023-03-17T10:56:02.527" Title="Can I split a shell body using a cone as the splitting surface?" Tags="|fusion360|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20697" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-03-17T18:22:11.790" Score="1" ViewCount="2367" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have just calibrated my extruder and everything is ok. When I extrude 100 mm of filament, everything is correct, but when I attach the Bowden tube to the nozzle, the length of filament that is extruded is not correct - it is much shorter. Is that normal?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The nozzle is almost new. It was working for only a few hours. How can I fix it? Do I need a new nozzle, or there is some another issue?&#xA;I tried some prints and they were just fine. Before calibration, they were terrible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The method that I used to calibrate is described here, &lt;a href=&quot;https://makershop.co/how-to-calibrate-esteps-ender-3/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Stupid Fast Way To Calibrate E Steps On Ender 3 (V2/Pro)&lt;/a&gt;, calibrated with and without the Bowden tube - on the another end before nozzle. But when I attach the Bowden tube and extrude, the nozzle is all wrong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I used the method from the link above. My prints were terrible before calibration. Using this method now my prints are ok. Method is without Bowden tube, printer extrude in the air. But when I extrude from nozzle distance in much shorter. Is that normal? Or is the method used to calibrate correct and enough?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37666" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2023-03-18T01:08:08.017" LastActivityDate="2023-03-21T13:00:19.220" Title="Adjust E-step on Ender 3 v2 Neo" Tags="|print-quality|extruder|diy-3d-printer|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20699" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20024" CreationDate="2023-03-18T00:02:25.280" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had the same concern to make mechanical connections where we tolerate a distance of 0.1 mm and these so-called &amp;quot;sewing points&amp;quot; making it impossible. I started to compare between the preview before printing in the slicer and the part printed before.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem is recurrent along a vertical line and always repeats itself at the same point. So by looking to the layer settings, there is a junction between the outer and the first inter shell. This junction could be avoided by modifying the &amp;quot;shell print order&amp;quot; parameter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a video shows the difference abd before / after picture. The line remains visible but the points disappear completely. You can set the layer height to 1.2 mm for better results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/Ds5QcqMx6xU?start=0&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37670" LastActivityDate="2023-03-18T00:02:25.280" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20700" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20697" CreationDate="2023-03-18T07:58:29.323" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;That calibration test shouldn't be used. You calibrate the extruder at zero load, it is far better to include the Bowden tube and the hot nozzle as these give pressure/resistance to the path. This may result in slightly different values for your steps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2023-03-18T07:58:29.323" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20702" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-03-18T09:12:44.417" Score="1" ViewCount="194" Body="&lt;p&gt;I seem to be having trouble managing the printer for slicing process in Ultimaker Cura. I use Flashforge Guider 3 Plus printer and added it to Ultimaker Cura manually (there was no Guider 3 Plus option for Flashforge printer in Cura). In the machine settings, I only set the printer dimensions and left the Printhead Settings as default. Machine settings will be attached below).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The slicing process went well. But what I found when I was going to print on my printer is as follows&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HFhoX.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HFhoX.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;-&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone have any idea what's going on? And how is this problem solved?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37656" LastEditorUserId="37656" LastEditDate="2023-03-18T10:04:29.383" LastActivityDate="2024-03-14T18:25:45.183" Title="Managing Flashforge Guider 3 Plus printer on Ultimaker Cura" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|diy-3d-printer|flashforge|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20703" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-03-18T23:04:13.023" Score="3" ViewCount="190" Body="&lt;p&gt;I created a box in Blender and exported that into an STL file and it seems to be failing to render the correct walls. The box looks like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ScTFu.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Nice looking box&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ScTFu.png&quot; alt=&quot;Nice looking box&quot; title=&quot;Nice looking box&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But when I open it in Cura, it looks like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/O8lt1.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Not so nice looking box&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/O8lt1.png&quot; alt=&quot;Not so nice looking box&quot; title=&quot;Not so nice looking box&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there something I'm exporting incorrectly or something else I'm missing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37681" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2023-05-15T07:46:07.793" LastActivityDate="2023-05-15T14:23:24.753" Title="STL exported through Blender not watertight" Tags="|3d-models|stl|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20704" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20706" CreationDate="2023-03-18T23:17:25.910" Score="5" ViewCount="296" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Issue:&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I realized that the filament extrusion always stops at the same spot for a couple seconds then starts back, I know it's the printer and not the filament, I can see the gear literally stop for a couple seconds. The fan also stops during that time,  I suspect it has caused the printer to activate it's thermal runaway protection shutdown a couple times. I have no idea what to google to fix it. Here is a picture:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4CRCb.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Filament gap&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4CRCb.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Filament gap&quot; title=&quot;Filament gap&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you can see it's like it stops before the curve, but to be clear, unlike all the questions I have read here, it starts back a couple seconds after.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;For context:&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Printer: Ender S1 Pro&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Slicer: Cura 5.2.2&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Maybe related?&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've had my printer for maybe 2 months, and I thought I finally had it setup, prints were consistent and never failing, then yesterday it's like every single setting fell apart at the same time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The print is no longer sticking to the bed, and I constantly get a &amp;quot;AB Temp.&amp;quot; shutdown. I switched the nozzle, no success. I always level it with a sheet of paper, but now I see that after the bed probe hits (as it does before every print), it causes it to raise the nozzle a couple tenth of a millimeter, which explains why it's not sticking. I fixed that by changing the Z-Index, but it's weird that it randomly changed? (by 0.3mm which is significant)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have no idea how to fix the extrusion stopping randomly though, but I think when the extrusion and fan stop together, it suddenly changes the nozzle thermal properties, so its temperature shoots up, I think that's what's causing the &amp;quot;AB Temp.&amp;quot; shutdown.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I print via USB-C so it's not a corrupt file, I have been printing this way many times, no issues. I'm stumped, thank you for your help!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Update:&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This time I got quite far before thermal shutdown, it doesn't look random so I think the problem might be in the G-Code, at the same time, I don't get the pattern. Here are the pictures:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dKX9B.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dKX9B.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Gap on surface&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4DCXj.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4DCXj.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Gap on brim&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37683" LastEditorUserId="37683" LastEditDate="2023-03-19T03:02:48.037" LastActivityDate="2023-03-19T08:33:01.307" Title="Printer stops extruding at same point on each pass" Tags="|creality-ender-3|ultimaker-cura|extrusion|thermal-runaway|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20705" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20703" CreationDate="2023-03-19T00:02:36.350" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;This may be related to a characteristic of the numerous slicers methods of handling single thickness walls. If your model's wall is of insufficient width, it &amp;quot;ceases to exist&amp;quot; in the slicer. &lt;a href=&quot;https://community.ultimaker.com/topic/21855-how-to-create-single-wall-prints-bug/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Ultimaker's community forum&lt;/a&gt; has a reference that may be of value, second post to the linked page:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is known. It's a limitation of how Cura calculates these things:&#xA;Your model outline is inset by half the line width. If anything&#xA;remains, it is printed with the normal line width. If nothing remains,&#xA;only the &amp;quot;Print Thin Walls&amp;quot; option may still save you. If two lines&#xA;overlap a lot, then one of the two will have its extrusion rate&#xA;reduced to prevent overextrusion. You'll ooze some filament there but&#xA;hopefully not too much since there is a backpressure from the earlier&#xA;printed line.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to that same forum (and likely other locations on the internet), there is a setting for &amp;quot;print thin walls&amp;quot; that may solve the problem. The original poster discovered that it did not, for his model and had to increase wall thickness in the design software.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastActivityDate="2023-03-19T00:02:36.350" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20706" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20704" CreationDate="2023-03-19T08:33:01.307" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The error you encounter is related to a partly broken wire or problem with the seating of connector plugs in their sockets. The fact that the fan also stops hints to this. You need to check all cables and connectors, especially the thermistor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Such problems arise after a few months of usage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2023-03-19T08:33:01.307" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20707" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-03-19T14:19:07.537" Score="2" ViewCount="165" Body="&lt;p&gt;As stated in the question I am trying to combine a drawing I have in .svg format with a simple cylinder in order to make a printable medal. I have tried the following code :&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;union()       {&#xA;    &#xA;translate([25,25,0]) cylinder(h=1.5,r=25,center=false);&#xA;translate([7,7,1.4]) linear_extrude (height=1.5) scale([0.2,0.2,1])  { import(&amp;quot;/Users/tijg/Documents/projecten_actueel/3dwerk/eik/eikenblad-boom.svg&amp;quot;);}&#xA;}&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the preview all looks well, but after rendering the drawing on top disappears. As I remove the cylinder, the drawing of the .svg renders perfectly and is printable. Any help much appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37691" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2023-03-19T16:12:55.417" LastActivityDate="2024-03-08T04:04:16.010" Title="How to combine an .svg and a basic object in Openscad" Tags="|openscad|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20709" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20710" CreationDate="2023-03-20T14:33:16.890" Score="3" ViewCount="906" Body="&lt;p&gt;Alright, a few assumptions about the printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It can handle the momentum of the nozzle moving so fast.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I have good enough bed adhesion to do this.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The nozzle can handle the amount of filament going through it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Im using PLA filament.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I have the thing anchored to my desk with 10 foot long 3 inch wide bolts so it wont achieve liftoff.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am somewhat interested in building this printer so that why im wondering. Would it be possible that the filament will move so fast as it exits the nozzle that is doesn't attach the the model itself, just fly off of it? Thanks for any help!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37703" LastActivityDate="2023-03-20T18:21:17.373" Title="If you had good enough motors could you print at 1000 mm/s with good quality?" Tags="|diy-3d-printer|speed|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20710" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20709" CreationDate="2023-03-20T17:35:42.997" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes you can print at 1000 mm/s with good quality, but motors really have nothing to do with it. The cheap motors you get on an Ender 3 can go at 1000 mm/s if you have a controller board supporting 48V power supply for the stepper drivers. In general, max motor RPM before you hit pullout (the speed at which torque rapidly falls off because you don't have enough voltage to drive a reversal of the magnetic field for the next step in time) is proportional to voltage. With 24V these motors can take you up to 500 mm/s or higher, so at 48V I'd expect to hit 1000 mm/s without much problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, to reach 1000 mm/s, you need enough acceleration to reach that speed before you have to start slowing back down to stop or change direction. High acceleration, not high speed, is what has tradeoffs with quality, because no physical system is perfectly rigid, and under high forces (F=ma), there will be significant physical stresses on the printer frame, belts, motor shafts, bearings, etc. affecting the accuracy of your print. But fortunately, the accelerations you need to reach 1000 mm/s aren't all that high. You can reach it on 20 mm lines with just 50000 mm/s², which, although 100x the default on typical bedslingers like an Ender 3, is well within the capabilities of good CoreXY, CrossXY, or delta printers, especially with input shaping available on modern firmware. You can find plenty of videos on YouTube of the K3 (by Annex Engineering), VzBot, etc., as well as some RatRigs and Vorons, doing this kind of acceleration at pretty much perfect quality.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, the hard part of getting really high speeds is pushing and melting the plastic that fast. Fortunately, you didn't specify a layer height, so if by 1000 mm/s, you mean 1000 mm/s at 0.05 mm layer height, that's only 20 mm³/s, and doable even for a very standard hotend, and easy if it has a CHT nozzle. But if you want to do 1000 mm/s at 0.2 mm layers by 0.4 line width, that's 80 mm³/s. There are very few hotends which can achieve that kind of flow, but the Goliath by VzBot can do nearly twice that, and various hybrid volcano approaches like the Volcomosq can probably reach 60-80 mm³/s.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;People don't make high-end gear like this to print ugly boats (well, they do that sometimes for fun, but if you're putting the effort into making it, you almost surely want it to be useful too). The printers that can print at this kind of speed absolutely do it at high quality.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's one example I just found of printing at 50k acceleration, 1500 mm/s: &lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/hcMxEkVvIdE?start=0&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastEditorUserId="11157" LastEditDate="2023-03-20T18:21:17.373" LastActivityDate="2023-03-20T18:21:17.373" CommentCount="16" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20712" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3302" CreationDate="2023-03-21T07:15:35.210" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;That is great. You can also do the 3D model measurements using SelfCAD software.&#xA;I can confidently recommend to all users because it is suitable for both 3D artists and beginners.&#xA;The software has a built-in Measurement Tool that allows users to accurately measure the size of 3D models. The tool can be used to measure the length, width, height, and angle of a 3D model. To use the Measurement Tool, users simply select the part of the model that they want to measure and then move the pointer to the desired measurement point. The Measurement Tool will then display the measurements in the software’s measurement panel.&#xA;Check this video on how to do the measurements of 3D models using SelfCAD &lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/ek8MtIfBr64?start=6&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37715" LastActivityDate="2023-03-21T07:15:35.210" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20713" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20697" CreationDate="2023-03-21T13:00:19.220" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am completely new to 3D printing so I followed this calibration with my new Ender 3 v2 NEO:&#xA;&lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/vaDvZqpQ_t8?start=2059&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&#xA;My prints are really good.&#xA;Hope this helps!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37719" LastActivityDate="2023-03-21T13:00:19.220" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20714" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-03-21T17:56:18.787" Score="3" ViewCount="4274" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are lots of videos out there of 3D printers printing &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.3dbenchy.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;3D Benchy&lt;/a&gt; ridiculously fast. Some of them come out really ugly, but others are very high quality at speeds that look like they should be impossible. And some of them are even done on fairly &amp;quot;normal looking&amp;quot; printers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What speeds are they actually being printed at, and how is this possible?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is involved in printing a Benchy at really high speed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What aspects of the printer actually matter, and how do you select a printer or modify a printer to be able to do it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastEditorUserId="11157" LastEditDate="2023-03-21T20:04:45.867" LastActivityDate="2023-03-21T20:04:45.867" Title="What's the deal with speed Benchys and how can I get started attempting them?" Tags="|speed|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20715" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10680" CreationDate="2023-03-21T18:49:40.873" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;What worked for me was enabling &lt;code&gt;outer wall wipe distance&lt;/code&gt; to around 3 mm, that's all that I enabled and it instantly fixed it, no prime amount or anything, just outer wall wipe distance&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37725" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2023-03-21T23:06:29.273" LastActivityDate="2023-03-21T23:06:29.273" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20717" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20714" CreationDate="2023-03-21T20:02:40.240" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Speed Benchys were a trend that took off with the #speedboatrace challenge announcement by Annex Engineering in December 2020: &lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/7zkKcFtLAks?start=0&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While anyone can try to print a fast Benchy any way they like, most people who've taken up the hobby use the &amp;quot;regulation&amp;quot; settings from the above: 10% infill, 3 top and bottom layers, 0.25 mm layer height, and 0.4-0.5 mm line width/nozzle size. There is a list of &amp;quot;official&amp;quot; entries maintained on the Annex Engineering Discord server, also accessible by this &lt;a href=&quot;https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1lFiJi-X3Xm3hh3I9Ty9dfACMiBWxHFAOUeiU1km9m6I/edit?usp=sharing&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;direct link to the Google doc&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At least as of this writing, almost all speed Benchys are printed at a nominal print speed under 400 mm/s, most probably even under 300 mm/s. The &amp;quot;speed&amp;quot; you see when watching videos is not actually the absolute velocity the printer's toolhead (and/or bed) is zipping around at, but the velocity &lt;em&gt;relative to the size of the space it's moving in&lt;/em&gt;, and the speed at which it changes direction. &lt;strong&gt;Benchy is an acceleration-bound print.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When a 3D printer (or any kind of machine positioning a tool) performs a move, it doesn't simply go from a stop to motion at the requested speed instantaneously. It doesn't go from moving in the X direction to moving in the Y direction instantaneously. Because the toolhead (and possibly bed), and all the individual parts of the motion system moving it have momentum (some linear, some angular, some even electromagnetic), it takes time to change their velocities. As this acceleration/deceleration is taking place, the various parts of the motion system will resist changes in velocity, causing one or another to deflect from the intended path. The faster you try to accelerate, the more severe this deflection can be. In a worst case, this happens in the mesh of belt teeth with a pulley, or the alignment of the magnets in the motor with the field generated by the coils, and you get a layer shift. More commonly, you just get severe vibrations at resonant frequencies, showing up as ripples (ringing) in the surface of the print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I say Benchy is acceleration-bound, I mean it's very difficult to get a 3D printer toolhead to accelerate fast enough, without compromising quality, to make use of the full requested print speed the printer is capable of. This is because its layers are made up mostly of small segments, many of them on the order of (offhand guess looking at a boat on my desk) 1-8 mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To understand the relationship between attainable speeds and acceleration, you can use the formula &lt;code&gt;velocity²/2 = accel*distance&lt;/code&gt;, or use the classic &lt;a href=&quot;https://blog.prusa3d.com/calculator_3416/#acceleration&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;RepRap calculator&lt;/a&gt; (now hosted by Prusa). If you play around with it, you can see how, at the 500 mm/s² acceleration common on profiles for bed slingers like the Ender 3, you'll basically never reach speeds above 60 mm/s, and average much lower than that, on the majority of the Benchy. &amp;quot;Competitive&amp;quot; (or rather, perhaps &amp;quot;exciting&amp;quot; is a better word, since there's no actual ranking or rewards) speedboat entries generally run accelerations in the range 7000-50000 mm/s².&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To achieve this kind of acceleration without compromising on quality, you need either a printer with an extremely rigid frame and motion system, or firmware with &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.klipper3d.org/Resonance_Compensation.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;input shaper&lt;/a&gt; (aka resonance compensation) - preferably, both. Up until recently, input shaping was only available with Klipper firmware, but RepRap Firmware and now Marlin also have it, if you're using sufficiently new versions (note: as of Spring 2023 I'm not aware of any printers shipping Marlin with input shaping enabled, but this will eventually change). Bambu Labs' proprietary firmware also has this functionality.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most people doing high-speed speedboats choose to use 0.25 mm layer height and 0.5 mm line width, rather than the more standard 0.2 by 0.4, and to combine every 2 layers of infill. All of these choices help alleviate the degree to which Benchy is &amp;quot;acceleration-bound&amp;quot;, by making use of the flow the extruder and hotend can deliver without reaching high kinematic speeds. At 0.25 by 0.5, 300 mm/s takes 37.5 mm³/s of flow. This is considerably more than what most standard hotends can delivery (typically, 12-20 mm³/s with a normal nozzle, 25-30 mm³/s with a CHT) but very doable for high-flow ones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At speedboat speeds, most layers of the Benchy take less than 5 seconds to print, and half or more take less than 3 seconds. If you have a minimum layer time configured in your slicer, it will override that, and you'll end up with a slow boat, no matter what speed and acceleration you request. Fast layers like this, however, require some extreme cooling, so that the previous layer isn't still soft when the printer goes to lay down the next one. Speedboat entries have a lot of different approaches to this, ranging from whole-layer fans mounted on the sides of the print to CPAP hoses to the toolhead to high power 40mm x 28 mm axial server fans or more standard 5015 or 5020 radial blower fans mounted on the toolhead. Many of the fastest entries use combinations of different types of cooling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For anyone attempting to get started in speedboating, a checklist of things your printer needs would include:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Firmware with input shaper, properly calibrated.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Upgraded cooling. You can't have too much cooling.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A decent extruder that can push at least 15 mm³/s or so without skipping.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Beyond that, things you should ideally have:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Low moving mass.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A CHT or other high-flow nozzle, and/or high-flow hotend.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Decent stepper drivers with ability to control max current and put them in modes that won't compromise torque for quietness (so, TMCs you can put in Spreadcycle mode).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Firmware with pressure advance/linear advance, properly calibrated, if you want your high speed prints not to look ugly.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;More cooling.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And to go really extreme:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Multiple motors per axis.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wider/premium belts, etc. to deal with extreme forces on motion system.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;48V stepper drivers and high current motors.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;High temperature hotend so you can run at higher temperature to get more flow.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Further increasing flow with extruder and hotend upgrades.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Still more cooling.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Really, though, you do not need a ridiculously expensive printer to do this. An Ender 3 with less than $150 of upgrades can do a high quality Benchy in under 20 minutes and and ugly (maybe even decent) one in 10. Looking at the official entry list is a really good way to get an idea what kinds of printers have been able to achieve what times.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2023-03-21T20:02:40.240" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20719" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14645" CreationDate="2023-03-22T09:43:15.303" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since this was asked more than 2 years ago I don't expect an answer is still necessary but it might help someone else.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We recently had a PA print with 5 mm internal channels, mostly straight but one was opened up near a 90° bend yet still reachable with a bit of flexible wire. It was possible but difficult to get the powder out. We used a combination of 5 mm drill for the long straight channel and welding wire's in multiples sizes and bent to multiple shapes to get poke it out. A thin bent wire helps to get the last bits out by rotating it in the channels but with a circular channel like you mentioned with 1.5-2 mm diameter I don't see this working as easily.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Compressed air was used at the end to clean it out more, but it does require loosening it up physically because it can still stick to the walls. If you have any small exits (which we did, 0.5 mm) you might get a clogg if it dislodges from air later during use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Took about 30 minutes to clean up 3 prints with about 1 meter of (mostly straight) channel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37737" LastActivityDate="2023-03-22T09:43:15.303" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20720" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20721" CreationDate="2023-03-22T10:08:26.133" Score="2" ViewCount="3609" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am new to 3D printing, and are having a problem with wall thickness in vase mode.&#xA;I would like to print this vase model: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.printables.com/model/60696-blossom-vase&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.printables.com/model/60696-blossom-vase&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As seen in the &amp;quot;Makes &amp;amp; comments&amp;quot; section, people have printed the model with quite thick walls, and I would like this as well, maybe thicker.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a Prusa i3 MK3S+ printer, and are using the Prusa Slicer software. When I import the .stl model and select vase mode in print options, I cannot alter the layer height, solid layers etc. options to increase wall thickness. This means that the 3D print is almost paper thin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So how can I make a print of this model, with thick walls?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37738" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2023-11-11T22:28:16.090" LastActivityDate="2023-11-11T22:28:16.090" Title="How to adjust vase mode thickness" Tags="|prusa-i3|prusaslicer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20721" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20720" CreationDate="2023-03-22T12:18:14.133" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Vase mode implies a single wall, so if you need to have a thicker wall you need to set an extrusion width larger than the nozzle width (you cannot do that unlimited), but usually a 0.4 mm nozzle can print at 0.8 mm width (twice the nozzle diameter), or you could replace the nozzle for a wider nozzle, e.g. a 0.8 mm nozzle (and also print at larger diameter). Note that when using larger nozzles/diameters, the extrusion volume increases, so you need to print slower.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2023-03-22T15:17:02.050" LastActivityDate="2023-03-22T15:17:02.050" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20723" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20742" CreationDate="2023-03-23T12:29:37.680" Score="5" ViewCount="56" Body="&lt;p&gt;My printer recently started lowering the bed an additional step for every measurement on the &lt;code&gt;G29&lt;/code&gt; procedure. The only change I did, at least purposely is, adjusting the nozzle offset and MIN/MAX positions for X and Y because I installed the &amp;quot;Hero Me&amp;quot; parts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a video of what happens:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/SN9cbFaW7ks?start=0&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user31236" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2023-04-08T01:49:44.253" LastActivityDate="2023-04-08T01:49:44.253" Title="Weird bed movement when doing ABL (G29)" Tags="|automatic-bed-leveling|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20725" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-03-23T15:51:32.600" Score="1" ViewCount="501" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a CR-10 (original version), and I just installed an SKR E3 Mini V3.0 board, with custom Marlin firmware.  Everything else seems to be running properly, but some of my fans won't spin, or won't spin correctly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The CR-10 has four fans:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the parts cooling fan, which has variable speeds and is controlled by the G-code,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the heat sink fan, which should either be always on, or should activate when the heat sink registers 50 °C or higher, and&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a fan inside the control box, near the rear of the case, and&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a fan inside the control , near the front of the case, by the LCD screen.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The parts cooling fan seems to be operating correctly.  The heat sink fan won't turn on at all.  Inside the case, 3) operates correctly, and 4) spins very slowly and loudly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have read that you have to do something to the configuration files to instruct Marlin on which pins correspond to which fans, but any examples I find refer to Ender 3 printers and not to CR-10s.  How do I troubleshoot the fans and/or edit the Marlin configuration files to set up my fans properly?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18709" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2023-03-25T23:25:28.577" LastActivityDate="2023-03-25T23:25:28.577" Title="How can I successfully set up my fans to run on my CR-10 using Marlin?" Tags="|marlin|creality-cr-10|skr-mini-e3|print-fan|fans|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20727" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-03-25T02:27:51.577" Score="0" ViewCount="932" Body="&lt;p&gt;So my Ender 3 with a BLTouch running on a BIGTREETECH SKR MINI V2.0 mainboard has been working just fine on Marlin 2.0.8 for a year or so and I decided I would update it to Marlin 2.1.2.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I downloaded the 2.1.2 pre-configured firmware from BIGTREETECH's Github open it in VS Code and do the usual:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Make sure &lt;code&gt;Z_MIN_PROBE_USES_Z_MIN_ENDSTOP_PIN&lt;/code&gt; is uncommented.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Uncomment &lt;code&gt;#define BLTouch&lt;/code&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Set probe offsets&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Uncomment &lt;code&gt;ENABLE_LEVELING_FADE_HEIGHT&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Uncomment &lt;code&gt;Z_SAFE_HOMING&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Comment &lt;code&gt;MESH_LEVELING&lt;/code&gt; and uncomment &lt;code&gt;BILINEAR_LEVELING&lt;/code&gt; for auto bed leveling&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Comment out &lt;code&gt;MIN_SOFTWARE_ENDSTOP_Z&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Uncomment &lt;code&gt;BLTOUCH_DELAY&lt;/code&gt; and &lt;code&gt;BLTOUCH_FORCE_SW_MODE&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I compiled, placed firmware.bin on the SD card, flashed it and everything seemed fine until I tried to home my Z-axis.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The probe sticks out and retreats twice the light stays blue, the gantry doesn't move at all and the LCD reads &amp;quot;STOPPED&amp;quot;. I have no idea why this is happening any help is appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37762" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2023-03-25T04:20:55.240" LastActivityDate="2024-01-14T20:57:38.390" Title="Z Homing issue after Marlin 2.1.2 upgrade on Ender 3 with BTT SKR mini V2.0 and BLTouch" Tags="|creality-ender-3|marlin|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20728" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-03-25T21:36:25.623" Score="3" ViewCount="485" Body="&lt;p&gt;On my Prusa MK3, I'm trying to make a G-code that only heats up the print bed and moves the Z-axis up and down a little bit every 20 mins to prevent the safety timer going off. This is what I have done:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sliced a random file with PrusaSlicer.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Opened it in TextEdit.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Deleted the G-code for:&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the actual print&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;heating the nozzle&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;waiting for the nozzle to heat up&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Changed the G-code to heat the bed to 50 °C.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Inserted this G-code:&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;    G28,&#xA;    G1 Z190 Y140 F500,&#xA;    G4 S1200,&#xA;    G1 Z188,&#xA;    G1 Z190,&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol start=&quot;6&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Copied and pasted  &lt;code&gt;G4 S1200, G1 Z188, G1 Z190&lt;/code&gt; command 11 times - total of 12 instances.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I believe this should last a total of slightly more than 4 hours, right? I Just want to make sure before I possibly break my printer or if there is a better way to do this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37597" LastEditorUserId="27865" LastEditDate="2023-04-07T07:28:49.037" LastActivityDate="2023-06-13T04:16:46.850" Title="Drying filament with heated bed on Prusa - how to &quot;bypass&quot; safety timer?" Tags="|pla|filament|prusa-i3|g-code|heated-bed|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20729" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20672" CreationDate="2023-03-25T21:42:15.080" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It turns out that it was caused by the filament being ground at regular intervals. I solved it by lowering the printing speed (I did change the bowden tube to a 1.75 mm one though). Still working on fully tuning this printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37597" LastActivityDate="2023-03-25T21:42:15.080" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20730" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20744" CreationDate="2023-03-26T00:11:18.273" Score="2" ViewCount="340" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm very new into 3D printing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I brought an Ender 6 and a cover for ABS printing, but the standard white Bowden tube was too short to pass through the hole of the cover. So I'm replacing the Bowden tube for a Capricorn one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, the manufacturer (Captubes.com) only states that their 2 meter &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.captubes.com/shop/#!/XS-Creality-Kit-2-Meter/p/123266814/category=23214267&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;kit&lt;/a&gt; is compatible with CR-10 and Ender 3.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this kit also compatible with an Ender 6?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37767" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2023-03-26T09:01:13.033" LastActivityDate="2023-03-29T15:48:41.997" Title="Upgrading Bowden Tube on Ender 6 to Capricorn" Tags="|bowden|creality-ender-6|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20731" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20730" CreationDate="2023-03-26T13:28:17.247" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds like you're trying to move the E motor outside the enclosure. Don't do that. Bowden extruders &lt;em&gt;already&lt;/em&gt; suffer from severely reduced accuracy and increased difficulty in pushing the filament through the tube length. Making the tube longer makes this a lot worse. Instead, feed the extruder, which remains in its existing place inside the enclosure, with an &amp;quot;reverse bowden tube&amp;quot; bringing filament in from outside the enclosure. Or optionally, at ABS chamber temperatures that should be well under the temperature at which ABS softens, just put the filament spool inside the heated enclosure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2023-03-26T13:28:17.247" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20732" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-03-26T15:07:02.297" Score="1" ViewCount="84" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to get spring-tensioned cup and ball delta arms for a custom build and considering using premade FLSUN SR arms because they're available at very reasonable prices and there do not seem to be any suppliers for these kinds of ball cup ends as a standalone part. But I can't find any details on the diameter of the balls I'd need to use them. From photos of the FLSUN SR effector it looks like they're about 7mm, but that seems like an odd size and might very well be inaccurate due to perspective. 8mm seems to be the size used by other similar parts including the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.seemecnc.com/products/cnc-machined-ball-joint-kit&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;SeeMeCNC balls&lt;/a&gt; I'd like to use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could someone with one of these printers take a real caliper measurement to help me determine if this part will be suitable or what size balls I might need to look for to make it suitable?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2023-03-26T15:07:02.297" Title="What is the ball diameter in the FLSUN SR delta arm joints?" Tags="|delta|part-identification|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20733" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-03-26T15:16:17.310" Score="3" ViewCount="118" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm in the process of building a custom delta printer, and based on discussions with folks who do this about the pros and cons of different types of joints, and on &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.sublimelayers.com/2017/04/delta-arm-joint-musings.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this article&lt;/a&gt; I'd really like to get spring-tensioned ball cup joints. The article cites a company called Trick Laser as the source for the ball cup ends used in some such arms, apparently including &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.seemecnc.com/collections/parts-accessories/products/carbon-fiber-arms-340-5mm-set-of-six&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;the ones SeeMeCNC sells&lt;/a&gt; as complete parts, but Trick Laser does not seem to still be in business or at least doesn't seem to have a website, and I've been completely unable to locate anyone selling just the ball cup ends. Short of printing my own in nylon or POM (this is scarily doable and I might actually do it) or buying SeeMeCNC's arms with the wrong length and carefully cutting them off and drilling out the epoxy or whatever, is there any way to get these kinds of ends?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that the FLSUN SR uses these kinds of joints, and since its arms are almost a perfect match for what I need, I have &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/20732/what-is-the-ball-diameter-in-the-flsun-sr-delta-arm-joints&quot;&gt;another question&lt;/a&gt; about the possibility of using them. But I'd really like to know where to get the parts, since I'll probably be doing at least one more build that will need different lengths, and I'd like to be able to publish the design and BOM for others to build.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2023-04-02T02:06:23.167" Title="Are delta ball cup ends available as standalone part?" Tags="|printer-building|delta|part-identification|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20734" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20736" CreationDate="2023-03-26T17:44:31.027" Score="2" ViewCount="90" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to build a cover for my Hypercube Evo's &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.jameco.com/z/LRS-350-24-MEAN-WELL-350-4W-24V-14-6A-Single-Output-Enclosed-Power-Supply_2219823.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Meanwell LRS 350W&lt;/a&gt; power supply.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The power supply input is 120V AC and it provides 24V DC output to a &lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/wiki/EinsyRambo&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Einsy Rambo 1.2&lt;/a&gt; board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to protect the Meanwell mains with a cover and a rocker switch with IEC receptacle like &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B07KS2TQ45&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this one&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The receptacle has a 5 AMP Fuse between mains and switch.  The Einsy also has three fuses, one for Hotend 5 AMP and one for Fans, etc. 5 AMP, and also a 15 AMP fuse for the heatbed.  And there is a dedicated power input for the bed on the board. I plan to run a MK2a &lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/wiki/PCB_Heatbed&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;heatbed&lt;/a&gt;, which I think will draw about 13 AMPS at least.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is, will the receptacle fuse blow when I use the heatbed, or does the amperage come from the power supply (after the receptacle)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any other thing I should worry about in this configuration?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="809" LastActivityDate="2023-03-26T21:27:32.500" Title="Can I run a 15 AMP heatbed behind a 5 AMP IEC Receptacle?" Tags="|power-supply|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20735" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14926" CreationDate="2023-03-26T19:46:08.413" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;As far as I understand, this is how the limits are calculated:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The probing size is first calculated from &lt;code&gt;X_MAX_POS&lt;/code&gt; and &lt;code&gt;Y_MAX_POS&lt;/code&gt; and your &lt;code&gt;NOZZLE_TO_PROBE_OFFSET&lt;/code&gt; values. If you changed the extruder or part cooling system or added a BLTouch you will have to update these.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;This calculated area is reduced by &lt;code&gt;MESH_INSET&lt;/code&gt; if you want to make the probing area smaller. I don't really know why you'd do this so I always just set it to 0, and also it seems totally redundant with &lt;code&gt;PROBING_MARGIN&lt;/code&gt;. I don't know if they are calculated any differently, it would be great if the comments in Marlin were a bit clearer here&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;This area is further reduced by the &lt;code&gt;PROBING_MARGIN&lt;/code&gt; for situations like if you have bed clips around the edges, or if you're using a contactless probe which can get bad values near the edges.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So basically, if you're using a contact probe like BLTouch and you don't have any clips or obstructions around the edges, you can just set both &lt;code&gt;MESH_INSET&lt;/code&gt; and &lt;code&gt;PROBING_MARGIN&lt;/code&gt; to 0 then provided your X and Y axis max positions have enough extra room compared to the nozzle to probe offsets, you should be able to probe all points without issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16639" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2023-03-26T23:38:58.333" LastActivityDate="2023-03-26T23:38:58.333" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20736" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20734" CreationDate="2023-03-26T21:27:32.500" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The fuses on the board are for current pulled from the 24V DC. 15 amps of 24V DC is 3 amps of 120V AC, plus a little lost in conversion inefficiency in the power supply. If all of them were maxxed out, you'd be right at the 5 amp from mains, and inefficiency could perhaps throw you over. But presumably they're not supposed to be maxxed out, so you're probably okay.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2023-03-26T21:27:32.500" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20737" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20740" CreationDate="2023-03-27T09:38:03.233" Score="4" ViewCount="151" Body="&lt;p&gt;I got an Ender 3 Pro yesterday and have been having a problem with all of my prints. Whenever the extrusion stops and the X-axis moves, it moves too far. For example, I tried printing a Benchy with 2 skirt lines, and the lines were the right size but too far apart &lt;em&gt;(I measured it and they turned out to be 5 mm apart)&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;To be clear, this issue only occurs when I'm printing something. When I use the 'move axis' function on the X-axis, it moves appropriately.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is this a problem with the G-code/slicer or the printer?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What is causing this and how do I fix it?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Update: I've attached a picture of this. I threw the original Benchy in the trash so I made another one. I'll keep experimenting and see if I can fix it.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7PMSw.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7PMSw.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Picture of an uncompleted first layer of a 3D Benchy. The skirt lines around the model are noticeably far apart.&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37787" LastEditorUserId="37787" LastEditDate="2023-08-13T15:13:25.097" LastActivityDate="2023-08-13T15:13:25.097" Title="Ender 3 Pro: X-axis moves too much during printing" Tags="|creality-ender-3|ultimaker-cura|axis|x-axis|ender3|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20738" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="83" CreationDate="2023-03-27T15:53:54.953" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've recently seen a video of this being done successfully with almost no hardware modifications to the printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately I can't find the video itself any more, but the basic idea is to use the print head/gantry to knock the finished prints off the table, likely by adding some custom commands to the end of the sliced G-code. After the print is finished, the bed moves to the Y endstop (this was done on a bedslinger printer), the head is lowered to about half of the parts' height, then the bed is slowly moved so that the part crashes into the head, gets detached and knocked off the table, then the head is lowered even further and sweeps the part away.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only mechanical modification, namely a sheet of paper stuck to the table's edge, ensures that the part will roll clear of the bed rails, and pushes the pile of finished parts further from the printer once it's off.&#xA;In the case of that video there were three parts being printed at a time, so the motion was repeated for each of them, even though most of the time all three got successfully detached by the gantry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This approach is likely far from universal, and probably only works with parts that are tall enough and have a small enough footprint to easily detach from the bed; I certainly wouldn't try it if the parts have really good bed adhesion and require more than a slight force to pop off. But it looks like if the requirements are satisfied it should be quite effective.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also it's likely to be problematic on printers with box frames where it's the bed that moves in the Z direction, as the printed parts are likely to get trapped between the bed, print head and printer frame. CoreXY designs where the bed is static and the head moves in all three axes should be fine, however.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="755" LastEditorUserId="755" LastEditDate="2023-03-27T16:00:27.560" LastActivityDate="2023-03-27T16:00:27.560" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20739" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18071" CreationDate="2023-03-27T21:55:28.610" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You need to enable skew correction in the printer.cfg&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;[skew_correction]&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You need to enter your skew numbers into the console and save it. This will save your skew profile to the bottom of printer.cfg.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;SET_SKEW XY=141.22,141.15,100 XZ=140.87,141.34,99.84 YZ=141.12,141.26,99.94&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;SKEW_PROFILE SAVE=my_skew&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, Klipper docs warns about skew correction causing problems:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.klipper3d.org/Skew_Correction.html#caveats&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.klipper3d.org/Skew_Correction.html#caveats&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You need to add SKEW_PROFILE LOAD to your START_PRINT macro and SET_SKEW CLEAR=1 to your END_PRINT macro. You can either add this to your macros in Klipper or slicer program.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My skew parameters may be different from yours. I recommend you to perform your own measurements. My printer is an Ender3 S1 with linear rails.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;START_PRINT macro. Skew profile is loaded before the print starts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;SKEW_PROFILE LOAD=&amp;lt;your_skew_profile_name&amp;gt;&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ovL9M.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ovL9M.png&quot; alt=&quot;start_print macro&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;END_PRINT macro. Skew profile is disabled before the print is presented.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;SET_SKEW CLEAR=1&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yqJDe.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yqJDe.png&quot; alt=&quot;end_print macro&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37794" LastEditorUserId="37794" LastEditDate="2023-03-30T00:42:51.963" LastActivityDate="2023-03-30T00:42:51.963" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20740" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20737" CreationDate="2023-03-28T07:43:05.857" Score="4" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is this a problem with the G-code/slicer or the printer?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The issue came from the way I assembled my printer, not from the G-code or slicer that I was using.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What is causing this and how do I fix it?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It turns out that I put the belt on the X-axis upside down, and that was causing it to move incorrectly. I detached the belt from the 2 points that it was clipped onto, then re-applied it correctly and tightly, and now I can print things properly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37787" LastActivityDate="2023-03-28T07:43:05.857" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20741" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20498" CreationDate="2023-03-28T16:08:16.917" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've just been through the same problem using the flex bed on the Kobra Max, but it was there with the glass before as well, it was just a little better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some problems I did notice:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;When you remove the plastic cover on the printer head, you will notice the strain gauge is already stressed by some wire pushing on the heat sink. If you tie the cover aside to make sure it can blow on the heat sink without adding stress on it and you do the calibration, it improved the results for me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Something bad I did notice is that by power cycling the printer and redoing the nozzle touching step at the beginning of the leveling process, the pressure required to light the red led was not the same at all from time to time. So I guess the strain gauge is probably calibrating on power on but not in a reliable way obviously.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;When I put the plastic cover back in place on the printer head, I could not have the red LED (on the strain gauge PCB) to stay off so there is something pushing on it while it is tightened so it has to be less sensitive when it's assembled (IMO). I could not yet find what is pushing on it, I would have to sit inside the box to see...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;After having the leveling done without the plastic cover on the printer's head and having power cycled the printer until the nozzle touching step was the most sensitive before the leveling, all my test squares near the outside of the bed were good but the ones in the middle were much thinner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;What seems to be the major problem in this leveling process is that it is doing its leveling process at a fixed temperature (60 °C). So if your bed has to reach 100 °C for ABS, for example, the aluminum heating bed will expand but not the cold steel bracket holding it underneath, so the bed gets higher in the middle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If you succeed to get even tests around your bed and only the ones in the middle are thinner, try to print with the bed at 60 °C (same temp as its leveling) and it will be perfect :). But yes, I know you want the bed at 100 °C for ABS. For this, I have no fix, they will have to update their firmware so we can level at any temp.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37802" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2023-03-28T17:08:51.913" LastActivityDate="2023-03-28T17:08:51.913" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20742" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20723" CreationDate="2023-03-29T07:20:12.000" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;As it turned out, it is actually a bug: &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/issues/25565&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/issues/25565&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user31236" LastActivityDate="2023-03-29T07:20:12.000" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20743" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20775" CreationDate="2023-03-29T13:59:46.777" Score="2" ViewCount="159" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have created an action figure and would like to print it.&#xA;Anyway, I am not sure the best way to print it, the action figure can be printed only once but the duration is 10 hours. If I separate the part, the time is concise, but I need to do some changes to my file. What is the best way to print an action figure?&#xA;If the second method is the better (separate arm, legs, etc.), does exist a good way to do the join between parts?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My 3d printer is Elegoo Mars, so I use Chitubox.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xTWE0.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xTWE0.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="33490" LastEditorUserId="33490" LastEditDate="2023-03-30T08:13:54.830" LastActivityDate="2023-04-04T18:23:39.470" Title="What is the best way to print an action figure?" Tags="|3d-models|3d-design|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20744" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20730" CreationDate="2023-03-29T15:48:41.997" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I ended up getting in contact with the sales team at Captubes.com, and they replied promptly, what I did not expect.&#xA;They claim that the Capricorn tube is indeed compatible with the Ender 6 printer, and that they use the same fittings, with the exception of pro printers and ones that use something called a Bondtech extruder.&#xA;I'd like to thank everyone that helped to clear this matter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37767" LastActivityDate="2023-03-29T15:48:41.997" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20745" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-03-29T18:24:01.413" Score="1" ViewCount="134" Body="&lt;p&gt;When printing temp is at 200 °C and the print bed at 50 °C. When the print gets about a height of 4.0 or so, the print head will move to the far left corner on the rear. The filament will retract about 6 inches or so and start beeping. I have to run the filament back in and press print again and usually completes print. It doesn't matter what filament I have loaded, and there is no binding of filament.&#xA;New at this so all help is appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37814" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2023-03-29T19:07:56.187" LastActivityDate="2023-03-29T19:07:56.187" Title="Ender 3 v2 Neo filament retracting" Tags="|filament|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20746" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20733" CreationDate="2023-03-29T19:41:31.473" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well, they're available now &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5939582&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;as a printable part&lt;/a&gt;! Not yet tested on a real printer, but they move smoothly on metal delta joint balls (tested with Hayden's). I'll follow up with more details on how suitable they are once I've built this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2J5zZ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2J5zZ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Printed red ball-cup rod end, with machined steel 3/8&amp;quot; ball and mounting interface sitting in the ball cup&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Apparently printed ball cup ends are a thing other people building deltas do, too:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/ByejwSpKQkY?start=0&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastEditorUserId="11157" LastEditDate="2023-04-02T02:06:23.167" LastActivityDate="2023-04-02T02:06:23.167" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20747" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20664" CreationDate="2023-03-30T04:15:19.413" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sadly this is a known-weak part on all Creality extruders of this design.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The tension arm is ABS plastic and will work fine for a few months, maybe a year and will then break around where the bearing is secured to the arm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That equates to 5-10 kg of printing before the arm breaks.  Since its a higher pressure point, gluing will not succeed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your best option is to buy a replacement tension arm, in Aluminium.  There are many options on Aliexpess, though fit and finish can be a mixed bag.    I had to swipe some bolts from my original extruder-motor mount because the new one was short.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is telling that Creality offer a metal one and not a plastic one, but sells new printers with just plastic ones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12956" LastActivityDate="2023-03-30T04:15:19.413" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20748" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20754" CreationDate="2023-03-30T13:42:11.850" Score="3" ViewCount="408" Body="&lt;p&gt;My printer's hot end heats up way faster than the bed. Still, it takes its sweet time, and Cura's default startup sequence: heat the bed, wait for bed to reach target temperature, heat hot-end, wait to reach hot-end temperature, proceed - takes considerably more that it should.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;M140 S{material_bed_temperature_layer_0}      ;Start heating bed&#xA;M190 S{material_bed_temperature_layer_0}      ;Wait for bed to reach temp&#xA;M104 S{material_print_temperature_layer_0}    ;Start heating extruder &#xA;M109 S{material_print_temperature_layer_0}    ;Wait for extruder to reach temp &#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sure I could start heating both to target temperature simultaneously and then wait for both, but then I'll be baking unmoving filament in the nozzle for much longer than necessary. What I'd like to do is to start heating the nozzle when the bed is about 20 °C short of its target temperature - that causes them to reach their target temperatures nearly simultaneously. Something along the lines of:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;M140 S{material_bed_temperature_layer_0}      ;Start heating bed&#xA;M190 S{material_bed_temperature_layer_0 - 20} ;Wait for bed to be 20 degrees before target&#xA;M104 S{material_print_temperature_layer_0}    ;Start heating extruder &#xA;M190 S{material_bed_temperature_layer_0}      ;Wait for bed to reach temp&#xA;M109 S{material_print_temperature_layer_0}    ;Wait for extruder to reach temp &#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Except &lt;code&gt;S{material_bed_temperature_layer_0 - 20}&lt;/code&gt; isn't recognized as a valid substitution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I achieve the desired effect?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2206" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2023-03-31T06:00:11.040" LastActivityDate="2023-12-02T15:03:57.443" Title="Math in Cura start G-code expressions?" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|g-code|heated-bed|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20749" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-03-30T13:58:22.317" Score="2" ViewCount="84" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm working on a project where I have to design a Cartesian 3D concrete paste printer, in which I aim to make the build plate fixed with a 500 mm × 500 mm build area. But I'm confused as to how I should implement the motion of the Z-axis. I am thinking between:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Using a Z-axis that moves the entire X and Y frame.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Using an independent Z-axis that moves by itself only without the X and Y frame.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are the differences between the two methods in terms of:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Performance&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ease of design &amp;amp; assembly&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cost&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What design is more reasonable from a mechanical design point of view?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An example of the first method is the &lt;a href=&quot;https://openbuilds.com/builds/titanxy-fixed-build-plate-quad-z-screw-corexy.2619/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;TITANXY (Fixed Build Plate, Quad Z Screw, CoreXY)&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An example of the second is the &lt;a href=&quot;https://openbuilds.com/builds/maximus-3d-printer.952/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Maximus 3D Printer&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37825" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2023-03-30T16:06:50.043" LastActivityDate="2023-12-25T18:04:55.560" Title="How should I implement the Z-axis in a fixed build plate 3D printer?" Tags="|z-axis|build-plate|linear-motion|concrete-printers|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20750" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20749" CreationDate="2023-03-30T14:38:51.367" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Both are viable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are classic CoreXY printers where the extruder is moving along a gantry that slides along two rails which are moved up and down by four vertical lead screws in the corners. It's a lightweight construction suitable for very fast printers - with bowden tube feed (extruder far away from the hot end) the print head can be very light; some smart belt management allows to keep both X and Y motors only move up and down, which allows for extreme accelerations in X,Y directions, only Z is slow - and it rarely needs to be fast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then there's the design where a fixed gantry - be it a bridge over the table, or a beam moving on fixed rails up above the table - moves horizontally, and you have a carrier attached to it, which can move along the gantry, and move a Z slide - a vertical beam with the head at the end. This is used more frequently in CNC mills, as the construction can be made much more sturdy and rigid, but since the carrier hauls two stepper motors and a heavy spindle around, the accelerations achievable aren't as high.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The two are fairly similar in terms of ease of design and assembly. As for performance, the former performs great for lightweight, fast work. The latter is great where you need force, torque, e.g. you use a specialized material with a heavyweight extruder - like for the concrete paste maybe?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2206" LastActivityDate="2023-03-30T14:38:51.367" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20751" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-03-30T20:21:41.800" Score="3" ViewCount="68" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got this rough line going right up the center of some of my prints:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/F4zIs.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Photo of rough vertical line in print&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/F4zIs.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Photo of rough vertical line in print&quot; title=&quot;Photo of rough vertical line in print&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can anyone be kind enough to tell me what this is called?  How does one fix it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="34543" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2023-03-31T20:54:34.693" LastActivityDate="2023-03-31T20:54:34.693" Title="What is this &quot;rough&quot; line going vertically up the side of a print called?" Tags="|print-quality|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20752" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20748" CreationDate="2023-03-31T04:46:41.340" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cura doesn't allow math operations in G-code scripts, if you want to do that you should use Slic3r or PrusaSlicer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See e.g. &lt;a href=&quot;https://community.ultimaker.com/topic/26539-keywords-arithmetic-in-cura/#comment-232352&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this question&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;https://community.ultimaker.com/topic/28652-g-code-custom-formula-in-the-cura-start-code/#comment-242497&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this question&lt;/a&gt; asked on the UltiMaker community.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2023-03-31T21:29:56.643" LastActivityDate="2023-03-31T21:29:56.643" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20754" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20748" CreationDate="2023-03-31T15:54:29.823" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can't do this entirely in start gcode templates, but you &lt;strong&gt;can&lt;/strong&gt; do it by first adding a custom setting to the json file for your printer profile or the base &lt;code&gt;fdmprinter.def.json&lt;/code&gt; file most profiles derive from. It would look something like (copied from my copy of &lt;code&gt;fdmprinter.def.json&lt;/code&gt;'s &lt;code&gt;material_bed_temperature_layer_0&lt;/code&gt; definition:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;            &amp;quot;material_bed_temperature_preheat&amp;quot;:&#xA;            {&#xA;                &amp;quot;label&amp;quot;: &amp;quot;Build Plate Preheat Temperature&amp;quot;,&#xA;                &amp;quot;description&amp;quot;: &amp;quot;The temperature used for preheating the heated build plate.&amp;quot;,&#xA;                &amp;quot;unit&amp;quot;: &amp;quot;°C&amp;quot;,&#xA;                &amp;quot;type&amp;quot;: &amp;quot;float&amp;quot;,&#xA;                &amp;quot;resolve&amp;quot;: &amp;quot;max(extruderValues('material_bed_temperature_layer_0'))&amp;quot;,&#xA;                &amp;quot;default_value&amp;quot;: 40,&#xA;                &amp;quot;value&amp;quot;: &amp;quot;resolveOrValue('material_bed_temperature_layer_0 - 20')&amp;quot;,&#xA;                &amp;quot;minimum_value&amp;quot;: &amp;quot;-273.15&amp;quot;,&#xA;                &amp;quot;minimum_value_warning&amp;quot;: &amp;quot;max(build_volume_temperature, max(extruderValues('material_bed_temperature')))&amp;quot;,&#xA;                &amp;quot;maximum_value_warning&amp;quot;: &amp;quot;130&amp;quot;,&#xA;                &amp;quot;maximum_value&amp;quot;: &amp;quot;200&amp;quot;,&#xA;                &amp;quot;enabled&amp;quot;: &amp;quot;machine_heated_bed and machine_gcode_flavor != \&amp;quot;UltiGCode\&amp;quot;&amp;quot;,&#xA;                &amp;quot;settable_per_mesh&amp;quot;: false,&#xA;                &amp;quot;settable_per_extruder&amp;quot;: false,&#xA;                &amp;quot;settable_per_meshgroup&amp;quot;: false&#xA;            },&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively, you could set &lt;code&gt;enabled&lt;/code&gt; for it to &lt;code&gt;false&lt;/code&gt; so it won't show up in settings, avoid the nice description and stuff, and name it something like &lt;code&gt;material_bed_temperature_layer_0_minus_20&lt;/code&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In either case you can then use the new setting in your start gcode.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2023-03-31T15:54:29.823" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20755" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20630" CreationDate="2023-03-31T16:31:25.693" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are you going to be printing using filament or resin?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm having trouble visualizing what you are intending to do, but if you are using a filament printer then it may be easier for you simply print the model out exactly as is, with no accommodation for the LED or batteries, and then simply cut into it with a sharp knife. When dealing with an item that is purely ornamental (Doe not require mechanical strength) The interior of a filament print is essentially a honeycomb that exists to support the exterior while it is printing. You can cut away most of it without harming the print, and then fill the remaining space with modeling clay to regain some of the lost strength.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Simply hollow out a space for the battery and then drill into it for the LED.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are using resin, you can hollow out the object using your slicer, and then use the hole punch tool that most slicers have to create a hole for your LED.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="29097" LastActivityDate="2023-03-31T16:31:25.693" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20756" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20757" CreationDate="2023-04-01T01:15:32.677" Score="1" ViewCount="211" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to combine two different G-code files into one. The reason I'm doing this is that I'd like to print my part with different layer heights. I've managed to combine the two G-codes together, but when it gets to the layer where the layer height changes, it stops moving and keeps extruding for 10-15 seconds, creating a blob of plastic, then moves on destroying the print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've tried using with PrusaSlicer's manual layer height feature, but their normal supports are unusable on my part and their organic supports are not compatible with the variable layer heights. Cura simply does not have this capability, and their adaptive layer height feature is not the answer. Here is what I'm trying to do:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Create G-code with layer height set to 0.3 mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Change layer height to 0.1 mm and create G-code from that&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Load 0.1 mm G-code into Notepad++ and find the layer I want to change it at&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Delete all G-code past that layer&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Load 0.3 mm G-code into Notepad++ and find where that layer would start based on Z height&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Copy/Paste the rest of the G-code into the 0.1 mm file&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Save and run on the printer&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It mostly works but the layer height change stops. Does anyone know what is happening?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are a bunch of lines from the g-code before and after where the transition happens. I have it marked in the g-code exactly where:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;G1 F2400 E2234.44369&#xA;G1 F3600 X105.992 Y179.63 E2234.66835&#xA;M204 S2000&#xA;G1 F2400 E2233.86835&#xA;G1 F300 Z5.8&#xA;G0 F9000 X106.068 Y183.796 Z5.8&#xA;M204 S500&#xA;G1 F300 Z5.4&#xA;G1 F2400 E2234.66835&#xA;G1 F3600 X99.843 Y190.022 E2234.8704&#xA;M204 S2000&#xA;G1 F2400 E2234.0704&#xA;G1 F300 Z5.8&#xA;G0 F9000 X101.42 Y192.688 Z5.8&#xA;M204 S500&#xA;G1 F300 Z5.4&#xA;G1 F2400 E2234.8704&#xA;G1 F3600 X106.635 Y187.472 E2235.03967&#xA;M204 S2000&#xA;G1 F2400 E2234.23967&#xA;G1 F300 Z5.8&#xA;G0 F9000 X107.871 Y190.479 Z5.8&#xA;M204 S500&#xA;G1 F300 Z5.4&#xA;G1 F2400 E2235.03967&#xA;G1 F3600 X104.311 Y194.039 E2235.15521&#xA;M204 S2000&#xA;G1 F2400 E2234.35521&#xA;G1 F300 Z5.8&#xA;G0 F9000 X108.544 Y194.049 Z5.8&#xA;M204 S500&#xA;G1 F300 Z5.4&#xA;G1 F2400 E2235.15521&#xA;G1 F3600 X109.947 Y192.646 E2235.20075&#xA;M204 S2000&#xA;G1 F2400 E2234.40075&#xA;G1 F300 Z5.8&#xA;G0 F9000 X120.783 Y90.912 Z5.8&#xA;M204 S500&#xA;;TYPE:WALL-OUTER&#xA;G1 F300 Z5.4&#xA;G1 F2400 E2235.20075&#xA;G1 F1978 X120.784 Y92.216 E2235.22798&#xA;G1 F1939 X120.794 Y92.736 E2235.23906&#xA;G1 F1901.4 X120.794 Y122.763 E2235.89141&#xA;G1 F1939 X120.783 Y123.279 E2235.90241&#xA;G1 F1978 X120.784 Y124.585 E2235.92968&#xA;G1 X120.974 Y124.314 E2235.93659&#xA;G1 X121.199 Y123.844 E2235.94748&#xA;G1 X121.327 Y123.323 E2235.95868&#xA;G1 F1939 X121.362 Y122.774 E2235.9704&#xA;G1 F1901.4 X121.362 Y92.736 E2236.62299&#xA;G1 F1939 X121.327 Y92.172 E2236.63503&#xA;G1 F1978 X121.201 Y91.663 E2236.64598&#xA;G1 X120.97 Y91.177 E2236.65722&#xA;G1 X120.819 Y90.963 E2236.66269&#xA;G0 F1620 X120.783 Y90.912&#xA;M204 S2000&#xA;G1 F2400 E2235.86269&#xA;G1 F300 Z5.8&#xA;;MESH:NONMESH&#xA;G0 F9000 X100 Y39.255 Z5.8&#xA;;TIME_ELAPSED:4586.593663&#xA;;-------------------------------------------------------------&#xA;;-----------------Transition Happens Here---------------------&#xA;;-------------------------------------------------------------&#xA;;LAYER:18&#xA;G0 X100 Y40.153 Z6.1&#xA;G1 F300 Z6.1&#xA;G0 F9000 X97.297 Y34.468&#xA;M204 S500&#xA;;TYPE:SUPPORT&#xA;G1 F300 Z5.7&#xA;G1 F2400 E2715.82188&#xA;G1 F1800 X97.297 Y34.468&#xA;G1 X97.47 Y35.08 E2715.86566&#xA;G1 X97.834 Y36.138 E2715.9427&#xA;G1 X98.102 Y36.794 E2715.99148&#xA;G1 X98.421 Y37.518 E2716.04595&#xA;G1 X98.79 Y38.243 E2716.10196&#xA;G1 X98.96 Y38.555 E2716.12642&#xA;G1 X99.366 Y39.232 E2716.18077&#xA;G1 X99.605 Y39.602 E2716.2111&#xA;G1 X100 Y40.153 E2716.25778&#xA;G1 X100.057 Y40.232 E2716.26448&#xA;G1 X100.343 Y40.609 E2716.29706&#xA;G1 X100.73 Y41.147 E2716.34269&#xA;G1 X100.934 Y41.458 E2716.3683&#xA;G1 X101.342 Y42.136 E2716.42278&#xA;G1 X101.476 Y42.382 E2716.44206&#xA;G1 X101.861 Y43.147 E2716.50103&#xA;G1 X102.193 Y43.913 E2716.55851&#xA;G1 X102.303 Y44.19 E2716.57903&#xA;G1 X102.602 Y45.029 E2716.64035&#xA;G1 X102.687 Y45.297 E2716.65971&#xA;G1 X102.939 Y46.186 E2716.72332&#xA;G1 X103.19 Y47.204 E2716.79551&#xA;G1 X103.692 Y47.104 E2716.83075&#xA;G1 X103.724 Y47.394 E2716.85084&#xA;G1 X103.799 Y48.272 E2716.91151&#xA;G1 X103.818 Y48.652 E2716.9377&#xA;G1 X103.839 Y49.553 E2716.99975&#xA;G1 X103.839 Y56.239 E2717.46007&#xA;G1 X100 Y56.239 E2717.72438&#xA;G1 X97.297 Y56.239 E2717.91048&#xA;G1 X97.297 Y34.823 E2719.38494&#xA;G0 F1620 X97.297 Y34.468&#xA;M204 S2000&#xA;G1 F2400 E2718.58494&#xA;G1 F300 Z6.1&#xA;G0 F9000 X100 Y40.153 Z6.1&#xA;M204 S500&#xA;G1 F300 Z5.7&#xA;G1 F2400 E2719.38494&#xA;G1 F1800 X100 Y56.239 E2720.49244&#xA;M204 S2000&#xA;G1 F2400 E2719.69244&#xA;G1 F300 Z6.1&#xA;G0 F9000 X130 Y89.241 Z6.1&#xA;M204 S500&#xA;G1 F300 Z5.7&#xA;G1 F2400 E2720.49244&#xA;G1 F1800 X130 Y125.641 E2722.99852&#xA;G1 X127.425 Y125.641 E2723.1758&#xA;G1 X127.425 Y89.241 E2725.68189&#xA;G1 X135 Y89.241 E2726.20342&#xA;G1 X135 Y125.641 E2728.7095&#xA;G1 X142.825 Y125.641 E2729.24824&#xA;G1 X142.825 Y89.241 E2731.75433&#xA;G1 X140 Y89.241 E2731.94882&#xA;G1 X140 Y125.286 E2734.43047&#xA;G0 F1620 X140 Y125.641&#xA;M204 S2000&#xA;G1 F2400 E2733.63047&#xA;G1 F300 Z6.1&#xA;G0 F9000 X100 Y175.345 Z6.1&#xA;G1 F300 Z6.1&#xA;G0 F9000 X97.278 Y181.097&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5579" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2023-04-01T22:31:26.310" LastActivityDate="2023-04-01T22:42:16.733" Title="Splicing G-code issue" Tags="|g-code|prusaslicer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20757" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20756" CreationDate="2023-04-01T08:39:43.707" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is completely expected from your description. You just cannot bluntly paste a different section of a G-code file into another without tweaking the interface layer (unless the extruder length is reset at every layer).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You need to make sure that the extruder distance is set to the right value. Usually the extruder length is reset to zero once in a while or at layer change to prevent too large E values (&lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#G92:_Set_Position&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;code&gt;G92 E0&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/a&gt;), but when you paste a layer with a mismatch in E value between the two, the extruder will extrude (or retract, this is equally valid, but in this case extrude) first before it will move further.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What you need to check for is the E value, look if it is reset or not and set the value by defining the correct value with &lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#G92:_Set_Position&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;code&gt;G92 Exxx&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/a&gt;, where &lt;code&gt;xxx&lt;/code&gt; is the correct value from the pasted layer (this will be the starting point for E extrusion).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the updated question with the G-code snippet we see that the above described is actually happening, layer 17 has a final move laying down filament in&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;code&gt;G1 F2400 E2235.86269&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and layer 18 has the first filament deposition with&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;code&gt;G1 F2400 E2715.82188&lt;/code&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can see that almost 500 mm of filament is wasted (2235 -&amp;gt; 2715). This means that you need add&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;code&gt;G92 E2715.82188&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;before&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;code&gt;G1 F2400 E2715.82188&lt;/code&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2023-04-01T22:42:16.733" LastActivityDate="2023-04-01T22:42:16.733" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20758" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20766" CreationDate="2023-04-01T09:31:04.370" Score="3" ViewCount="69" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just started 3D printing. Switched from a 0.4 mm nozzle to a 0.2 mm nozzle and am printing my first object. It has this pattern/inconsistency. Thinking it might be temperature variation but not sure. Anyone know what it is?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dqsme.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dqsme.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Image of a 3D printed comb with usual pattern&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I changed the speed to 60 % cause not enough was coming out at a time, it improved the results. Layer height 0.2 mm but it may be a little off from because of the leveling. I increased flow 15 % just now and seems to be printing better with more adhesion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37844" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2023-04-01T12:18:26.780" LastActivityDate="2023-04-02T22:31:36.467" Title="Why does my print have this unusual pattern?" Tags="|print-quality|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20759" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10417" CreationDate="2023-04-01T13:08:48.577" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VaM66.png&quot; alt=&quot;Synchronization failure when having more than three points in an axis&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the movements of those points for an axis are perfectly synchronized, there shouldn’t be a problem. However, in the physical world, inertia and elasticity come into play and hinder synchronization of such points. One of the points could move earlier than the others if they are not properly synchronized. In a 4-points-for-an-axis system, that means bending.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I &lt;em&gt;guess&lt;/em&gt; that’s why printers that have a 4-point Z axis usually have a dedicated motor for each point to synchronize electronically, rather than trying to synchronizing them with a single motor and a timing belt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Despite the difficulty in synchronization, having 4 points for an axis has an advantage over having three: it adds rigidity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Related articles&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://drmrehorst.blogspot.com/2017/07/3-point-print-bed-leveling-vs-4-point.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;3 Point Print Bed Leveling vs 4 Point Bending&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.reddit.com/r/VORONDesign/comments/vs7l80/v24_quad_zaxis&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Reddit: V2.4 Quad Z-Axis&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37830" LastEditorUserId="37830" LastEditDate="2023-04-01T16:23:18.387" LastActivityDate="2023-04-01T16:23:18.387" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20760" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-04-01T19:10:58.220" Score="1" ViewCount="81" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm new to the 3D printing world and I'm using the default options of Ultimaker Cura to slice and print a couple of cookie cutters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a model that looks alright, but when I slice it, some walls are missing for the Preview object.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here you can see how the model looks pre and post-slicing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QE98f.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QE98f.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KLPn9.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KLPn9.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can you help me with this? Do you know what I have to do to avoid these gaps in my sliced object?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a Artillery Sidewinder X2 which I use together with Ultimaker Cura. I print in PLA at 200 °C. The print bed is set to 60 °C. The layer height I set to 0.2 mm, the line width [0.44 mm] from the nozzle. The Printing Speed is set to 25 mm/s for walls and 50 mm/s for infill. My retraction is 3 mm&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37856" LastEditorUserId="37856" LastEditDate="2023-04-01T21:00:16.617" LastActivityDate="2023-04-01T21:00:16.617" Title="Gaps in walls Cura" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20761" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15855" CreationDate="2023-04-01T19:31:16.223" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just replaced my Y-axis belt, I returned everything to its regular place and it started grinding. This was because the build plate is symmetrical but the wheels are a little lower on one side, so flipping around the build plate fixed this for me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37857" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2023-04-01T20:29:01.453" LastActivityDate="2023-04-01T20:29:01.453" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20762" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-04-01T19:39:01.747" Score="1" ViewCount="718" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just unboxed my Sovol SV06, and it does not appear to home correctly. When issuing the &lt;code&gt;G28&lt;/code&gt; command through both the screen and Pronterface, it will crash against the X-axis limit switch until I turn off the machine, as shown in the video below.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have attempted to use Pronterface to issue new &lt;code&gt;M914&lt;/code&gt; commands, which is the StallGuard sensitivity setting.  I have lowered both the X and Y values to 10, sent the &lt;code&gt;M500&lt;/code&gt; command, verified the settings were correct with &lt;code&gt;M503&lt;/code&gt;, and then ran &lt;code&gt;G28&lt;/code&gt;. The same thing occurred and it does not appear to function any differently.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have verified that all of the steppers are plugged in, but I have limited functionality to test anything because the machine cannot home correctly. Is there something I am missing? Included below are the results of running &lt;code&gt;M503&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;m503&#xA;SENDING:M503&#xA;echo:; Linear Units:&#xA;G21 ; (mm)&#xA;echo:; Temperature Units:&#xA;echo: M149 C ; Units in Celsius&#xA;echo:; Filament settings (Disabled):&#xA;echo: M200 S0 D1.75&#xA;echo:; Steps per unit:&#xA;echo: M92 X80.00 Y80.00 Z800.00 E691.50&#xA;echo:; Max feedrates (units/s):&#xA;echo: M203 X500.00 Y500.00 Z10.00 E30.00&#xA;echo:; Max Acceleration (units/s2):&#xA;echo: M201 X500.00 Y500.00 Z100.00 E5000.00&#xA;echo:; Acceleration (units/s2) (P&amp;lt;print-accel&amp;gt; R&amp;lt;retract-accel&amp;gt; T&amp;lt;travel-accel&amp;gt;):&#xA;echo: M204 P500.00 R500.00 T1000.00&#xA;echo:; Advanced (B&amp;lt;min_segment_time_us&amp;gt; S&amp;lt;min_feedrate&amp;gt; T&amp;lt;min_travel_feedrate&amp;gt; X&amp;lt;max_x_jerk&amp;gt; Y&amp;lt;max_y_jerk&amp;gt; Z&amp;lt;max_z_jerk&amp;gt; E&amp;lt;max_e_jerk&amp;gt;):&#xA;echo: M205 B20000.00 S0.00 T0.00 X8.00 Y8.00 Z0.40 E5.00&#xA;echo:; Home offset:&#xA;echo: M206 X0.00 Y0.00 Z0.00&#xA;echo:; Auto Bed Leveling:&#xA;echo: M420 S0 Z10.00 ; Leveling OFF&#xA;echo:; Material heatup parameters:&#xA;echo: M145 S0 H185.00 B60.00 F255&#xA;echo: M145 S1 H240.00 B80.00 F255&#xA;echo:; Hotend PID:&#xA;echo: M301 P15.95 I1.30 D48.96&#xA;echo:; Bed PID:&#xA;echo:echo: M304 P110.38 I6.12 D497.30&#xA;echo:; User thermistors:&#xA;echo: M305 P0 R4700.0 T94162.0 B4160.0 C0.000000000 ; HOTEND 0&#xA;echo:; Power-loss recovery:&#xA;echo: M413 S1 ; ON&#xA;echo:; Z-Probe Offset:&#xA;echo: M851 X25.00 Y-25.00 Z0.00 ; (mm)&#xA;echo:; Stepper driver current:&#xA;echo: M906 X860 Y900 Z1000&#xA;echo: M906 T0 E550&#xA;echo:; Hybrid Threshold:&#xA;echo: M913 X183 Y183 Z41&#xA;echo: M913 T0 E60&#xA;echo:; StallGuard threshold:&#xA;echo: M914 X10 Y10&#xA;echo:; Driver stepping mode:&#xA;echo: M569 S1 X Y Z&#xA;echo: M569 S1 T0 E&#xA;echo:; Linear Advance:&#xA;echo: M900 K0.04&#xA;echo:; Filament load/unload:&#xA;echo: M603 L0.00 U50.00 ; (mm)&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37858" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2023-04-01T20:36:19.923" LastActivityDate="2023-04-01T20:36:19.923" Title="Sovol SV06 sensorless homing is not functional" Tags="|troubleshooting|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20763" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20762" CreationDate="2023-04-01T19:57:06.540" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It turns out that the previous post I had found suggested that the sensitivity setting be lowered when it actually needed to be raised.  Setting the two &lt;code&gt;M914&lt;/code&gt; values to 75 works perfectly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37858" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2023-04-01T20:27:40.913" LastActivityDate="2023-04-01T20:27:40.913" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20765" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6119" CreationDate="2023-04-02T11:49:31.947" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just for completeness sake, one can print a casting mould and then cast UV resilient resins from the mould.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The mould would be made of PLA. Because it is quite brittle, you would need to make a multi-part mould if you want it to be re-usable. Otherwise, if you are using something heat-resistant then you can melt or break the mould once you are done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26919" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2023-04-02T19:53:31.443" LastActivityDate="2023-04-02T19:53:31.443" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20766" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20758" CreationDate="2023-04-02T14:33:44.383" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Layer height should be max. 3/4 of the nozzle width, so you should print at max. 0.15 mm layer height with a 0.2 mm nozzle. So the problem is that you are using a too large of a layer height (0.2 mm). If you push more flow it appears to work, but, for the wrong reasons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With a layer height as large as the nozzle width, you extrude cylinders/tubes with much space between the perimeters, by increasing the flow percentage you somewhat flatten the tubes, but it is better to lower the layer height.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2023-04-02T22:31:36.467" LastActivityDate="2023-04-02T22:31:36.467" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20767" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-04-02T23:01:32.927" Score="2" ViewCount="1130" Body="&lt;p&gt;Everywhere you can read how to &lt;strong&gt;try&lt;/strong&gt; to &amp;quot;hide&amp;quot; the seam, but nowhere there is an attempt to eliminate this problem.&#xA;And the proof that it is possible is the prepared G-code added to the Ender printer on the SD card. (the exact name of the file is &lt;a href=&quot;https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Cnv37A2r_2v_kqtlao5ZksMwqx6ZEsPO/view?usp=sharing&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;code&gt;3-Cat.gcode&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This little figurine has no seam at all! The print is so perfect that I can't believe it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The question is why slicers don't create such G-codes so that the seam is hidden inside the printed object, not on its wall.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have printed this figurine six times already, in different colors and different brands of filament.&#xA;All prints are &lt;strong&gt;perfect&lt;/strong&gt;!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What do you think about it? Can this be done in a slicer? (I can add this file somewhere but I don't know where.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Seam in diferent retraction distance (retract on layer change turned on):&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lSuBG.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lSuBG.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;seam in diferent retraction distance&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37868" LastEditorUserId="37868" LastEditDate="2023-04-07T12:01:00.373" LastActivityDate="2023-04-07T13:03:18.787" Title="Perfect, no seam print on original sample &quot;3-cat.gcode&quot; from SD card added to Ender 3 S1 Pro. How does Creality do this?" Tags="|seam|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20768" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-04-03T02:24:29.843" Score="1" ViewCount="48" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not sure if this question is asked before, I am pretty new to 3D printing and not sure how people name this sort of problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So my problem is, when I have a structure that have some protruding parts on a base structure, something like this (from &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3754366&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3754366&lt;/a&gt;):&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KIdl6.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KIdl6.png&quot; alt=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3754366&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the slicer, between the bottom base and those &amp;quot;pillars&amp;quot;, the slicer will place the outline of those &amp;quot;pillars&amp;quot;, like this, directly on top of the base infill: &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mZ0ZS.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mZ0ZS.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;outline of pillars built on top of the &amp;quot;base&amp;quot;&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because those lines are place on top of the infill lines rather than a solid surface, it tends to get messed up, like this: &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zr63u.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zr63u.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a setting in Cura that can tell the slicer to build a solid surface on the top of the &amp;quot;base&amp;quot; first, and then draw those outlines on the solid surface instead of putting them down directly on the infill line? if not, any other way to address this issue?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37871" LastActivityDate="2023-05-03T09:02:45.300" Title="Cura slicer setting to make the printer fill the transition layer between two layer structure" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20771" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20767" CreationDate="2023-04-03T07:44:44.640" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's done by tweaking the retraction setting in your slicer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In Cura the main setting affecting this is under 'Travel'.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the 'Travel' settings is 'Enable retraction', and 'Retract at layer change'.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This will retract the filament and you won't get a seam.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31811" LastActivityDate="2023-04-03T07:44:44.640" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20772" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20768" CreationDate="2023-04-03T08:27:27.273" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Important information for this problem is top/bottom layer settings, which seems a bit sparse (but may be an incomplete print) as well as infill percentage. It appears that your infill is fairly low, causing the layers distress as the model continues to print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suggest to increase the top/bottom layer count and raise the infill percentage to twenty percent or greater.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastActivityDate="2023-04-03T08:27:27.273" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20773" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-04-03T13:11:18.740" Score="3" ViewCount="163" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sooooo, I'm shopping for nozzles (E3Dv6 flavor), and there seems to be several shapes available, differing mainly (or even exclusively) in the size and shape of the cone coming down to the exit orifice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The original E3D design has a flat step with an approximately 40 deg cone sitting on top of it, the cone's diameter being roughly half of the nut size.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lB4NJ.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lB4NJ.png&quot; alt=&quot;e3dv6 original&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EN3Rs.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EN3Rs.png&quot; alt=&quot;E-V6&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This design seems to be labelled by chinese manufacturers as &lt;strong&gt;E-V6&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other common design is what they call &lt;strong&gt;T-V6&lt;/strong&gt;, with an approximately 60 degree cone that does not end in a step but instead widens right up to the nut diameter:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Xfh7I.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Xfh7I.png&quot; alt=&quot;T-V6&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And then there are variations on the theme, with some nozzles having a sharper full-width cone (also seemingly an extremely common chinese design), others having a sharper/shallower/wider/narrower stepped design, and sometimes other slightly differing shapes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZkMyd.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZkMyd.png&quot; alt=&quot;sharper full cone&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iSyrC.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iSyrC.png&quot; alt=&quot;wider stepped cone&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JcyS0.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JcyS0.png&quot; alt=&quot;weird curved shape (trianglelab DLC)&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Further, there are those weird nozzles that actually have an airbrush nozzle screwed into the brass body, and ones with carbide/ruby/etc insets, which can also have either a full-cone or a stepped overall shape.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HaH4F.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HaH4F.png&quot; alt=&quot;airbrush nozzles&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/szzky.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/szzky.png&quot; alt=&quot;ruby inset, t-v6 style&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kZvwS.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kZvwS.png&quot; alt=&quot;carbide inset, e-v6 style&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question would be, &lt;em&gt;assuming identical material, quality of fabrication, etc&lt;/em&gt;, how would this difference in shape affect the nozzle thermally, mechanically, and in other aspects that have a practical impact on how it actually prints? How does it affect the print settings? If I change, say, from an E-V6 to a T-V6 nozzle, would I have to change my printing temperature or retune my heater PID? Would there be a noticeable difference between a sharper and a shallower full-width cone design?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, while it isn't relevant to me right now, since I included the hard-tipped nozzles for completeness, what about them? What diference does that bring? And what about that airbrush tip thingamajig?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="755" LastActivityDate="2023-04-03T15:12:25.557" Title="What is the practical difference between different nozzle tip shapes?" Tags="|hotend|nozzle|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20774" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20773" CreationDate="2023-04-03T15:12:25.557" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The differences are mainly thermal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Long nozzles that keep the large thermal mass as far as possible from the print are theoretically good for very small scale printing at very low speeds, where the radiant and convective heating from the block (even with silicone sock) and large part of the nozzle will tend to soften the already-printed material. Think DnD-mini scale or smaller, with 0.2 mm nozzles or finer, etc. However, you have to keep the material inside the nozzle hot all the way to the tip, and you also have to cool the printed part, so controlling exactly where the cooling airflow goes with this sort of setup is really important and precludes high airflow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For normal-scale and high-speed printing though, you need the opposite. High air flow, untargeted, blowing over as much as possible of the recently-laid material, and thus necessarily also hitting the nozzle tip. If the nozzle is long and pointy, it has a high surface area to thermal mass ratio, and the tip will end up being a lot cooler than the heater block due to air flow, impacting rate and consistency of flow, layer adhesion, etc. Thus, nozzles that are as wide as possible until near the very tip are appealing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another consideration not really used in practice is clearance. A nozzle with a sharp tip allows the tool to descend somewhat below the current layer height without colliding with the print, which could be used in advanced slicing, but is not used by any general-purpose present-day (as of early 2023) slicing software.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2023-04-03T15:12:25.557" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20775" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20743" CreationDate="2023-04-03T18:02:25.307" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Printing a complex object like this one from an attached photo requires a few factors to consider, such as print time, quality, ease of printing and eventual post-processing. You have two options: print the entire figure in one piece with supports, or separate the parts and print them individually.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Printing the entire figure in one piece&lt;/strong&gt; can be a good option if you want to save time and reduce the amount of post-processing work. If you decide to go with this option, make sure to orient the model correctly to minimize the need for supports and reduce the risk of failure during printing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Separating the parts and printing them individually&lt;/strong&gt; can allow you to print each part in the best orientation for quality and reduce the risk of print failure. However, it will require more time for preparing the model for printing and post-processing work to assemble the parts. Bear in mind, that if you decide to separate the parts, it may still be necessary to print them with supports. It is also a better option if the model exceeds the printer's build volume.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To make the assembly easier, you can add alignment pins and holes to the parts to ensure they fit together correctly. Here is a very good tutorial on how to do it - &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Tgc66TvEke4&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;How to cut STL models for 3D printing in Meshmixer&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt;. You can also add alignment pins and holes right in Chitubox.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both printing options have their pros and cons, and you should choose the one that best suits your needs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27865" LastActivityDate="2023-04-03T18:02:25.307" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20776" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20780" CreationDate="2023-04-03T20:11:27.823" Score="1" ViewCount="438" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just swapped out my MicroSwiss direct-drive extruder and hotend for a Creality Sprite Pro on my Ender 3 with an upgraded mother board to the BigTreeTech Octopus v1.1 and I'm experiencing thermal runaway on power-on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Previous (working) configuration:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ender 3 pro&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;BigTreeTech Octopus v1.1 loaded with Klipper firmware&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;MicroSwiss direct-drive&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;New configuration:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ender 3 pro&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;BigTreeTech Octopus v1.1 loaded with klipper firmware&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Creality Sprite Pro&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Steps that I'm taking to hit thermal runaway:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Turn on power switch for the Ender 3 Pro.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;NOTE: Thermal Runaway Protection does not work here.  The TRP detects and triggers, but Klipper doesn't seem to have any ability to control the heating tube.  Instead, Klipper shuts down and the heating tube keeps running away. Each time I've had to cut the power manually.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additional things that I've tried:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Powering on using the power from the Raspberry Pi's USB port&lt;/strong&gt; - this powers on the printer but will error on any attempt to drive motors or run the extruder.  RESULT: thermal runaway to the best that it can, plateauing around 60 °C.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Powering on using the power from the Raspberry Pi's USB port, then disconnecting and powering on without the Raspberry Pi connected, then powering down and reconnecting the Raspberry Pi&lt;/strong&gt; - this confirms for me that in the absence of the Raspberry Pi, it still reaches a runaway state; RESULT: monitoring before and after powering manually showed a jump of 100 °C in 30 seconds, meaning if the printer has power, it will power the heating tube with as much as it can.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Reversing the + and - wires&lt;/strong&gt; - this is the recommendation in the instruction manual, &lt;em&gt;&amp;quot;If 3D printer restarts during hotend heating up, please reverse the heating tube connectors on mainboard&amp;quot;&lt;/em&gt;; RESULT: prevents the printer from powering on - everything appears dead and returning the cables to the correct polarities returns it to a runaway state.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="924" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2023-05-05T04:26:33.990" LastActivityDate="2023-06-04T07:04:05.527" Title="Thermal runaway without error on power-on - Ender 3, BTT Octopus V1.1, and Sprite Pro" Tags="|creality-ender-3|heat-management|creality|bigtreetech|klipper|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20777" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20743" CreationDate="2023-04-03T21:00:35.623" Score="1" Body="&lt;h2&gt;STL print speed is determined by height in Z&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So to print your project, you should reduce Z height. In this case, your figurine can be placed with its height along the XY plane - lying on the back - and then drops its print time by roughly a factor of 8.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastActivityDate="2023-04-03T21:00:35.623" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20778" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21678" CreationDate="2023-04-03T21:12:10.720" Score="1" ViewCount="239" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm working on converting an Ultimaker 2 Go to use 1.75 mm filament. So far, I have replaced the bowden tube, replaced the feeder with this one: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youmagine.com/designs/alternative-feeder-1-75mm-version#information&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.youmagine.com/designs/alternative-feeder-1-75mm-version#information&lt;/a&gt;, and changed slicer/machine settings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An issue I am having is grinding at regular intervals, causing severe inconsistent extrusion. Messing with the feeder tension does not do anything. So, I am wondering if upgrading the hotend to an e3D V6 will solve it. Is there anything else to consider?&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SoOVE.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SoOVE.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;I also wonder if the problem has to do with the knurled drivegear. Would this work fine with 1.75 mm filament?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zFo8A.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zFo8A.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;`&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37597" LastEditorUserId="37597" LastEditDate="2023-04-04T07:19:54.200" LastActivityDate="2023-11-27T04:57:24.707" Title="Ultimaker 2 Go - Converting to Use 1.75 mm Filament" Tags="|extruder|hotend|e3d-v6|ultimaker-2|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20779" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7844" CreationDate="2023-04-03T23:41:18.457" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;So many things wrong with that last statement. First off, lets get the first layer adhesion out of the way... ANY time you work on your hotend, you need to adjust your Z offset because things rarely go back to the exact same. Even just a different torque spec (your hand is not a torque wrench nor is it as consistent as one) changes it. 10 degrees more turn on the thread from harder cranking and now youre higher off the bed. Believe it or not metal does actually flex when you tighten, especially aluminium and soft copper alloys like brass and bronze.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Secondly, the E3D V6 head is shorter than the mark 8. Thus you will need to adjust offset closer, by default, when switching to a V6.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That will fix bed adhesion in most cases. Follow procedure and recalibrate when you make changes and youll be fine. Now, as for temps... raising bed that high is a bandaid setting. We dont use bandaids. Fix the root, stated above, not a symptom of it. This prevents other problems. In this case your bed temp (assuming you're on PLA) is above glass transition. Thats a no-no. Even with proper offset, that causes other issues like the &amp;quot;other&amp;quot; type of elephant's foot. From the bottom layers being fluid and having a taller and more diffuse heat gradient. Basically the bed layer stays put and then layers above it shrink. Till about 5 or 10 layers up. Giving it a bow at the base of the print. You want it hot. But not melted. In regular PLA, thats 55c. 60c is glass transition. You can go to 59c with disgression, but generally you wanna keep 5c away from GT. Be careful with forums and FB posts, people say &amp;quot;do 75c&amp;quot; etc... these are beginners. Be careful taking advice from someone in their first few years of printint. FDM is tricky. It will fool you and teach you bad habits, and you wont realize its hurting you till much later on when you start moving out of the box.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now all metal temps... who told you +30c? Thats not a thing. If you are having to heat up another 30c to print with all metal, you have a throat clog. Fix your throat cooling system. This can also be from incorrectly installing or assembling it. Same with steel nozzles needing to be hotter. This is a myth. They will equalize just as any other nozzle. The difference is steel has a lower rate of heat absorbtion, and thus takes longer to heat up. It also drops faster than brass as you get into speed printing. Think pouring water on red hot steel. The filament is the water. So * &lt;em&gt;when&lt;/em&gt; * printing at very high rates of flow, which most people wont reach anyway, then yes, you run it hotter. But this is true for all hotends and nozzles during speed printing, not just because its steel. Speed printing often has nozzle temps above thermal breakdown of a material because it never has a chance to reach that due to rate of flow and time to heat, but still needs that abnormally high temp so the rapidly flowing filament can grab enough energy to melt in time. Larger bore nozzles also need a small bump because the core of the extrusion is farther from the walls of the nozzle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But no, V6 and/or all metal hotends absolutely do not need extra temps under normal use (like 0.2 layers at 60mm/s). The run at the same temps. And so does the bed. If it still doesn't stick and you know for sure your z offset is good, and you preheated and all the stuff youre supposed to do when setting that offset, then your bed is dirty, wipe with alcohol. Or the coating is worn out. Or, on bare glass and large base prints, you need an adhesive like 3D Lac or gluestick (not regular white, or gel, you need Xtreme or extra strength, or purple). If you have to heat up the hotend to extrude on an all metal or nozzle change, figure out why youre having throat clogs, because thats not a normal thing for a well-functioning hotend and extruder. That indicates a problem somewhere. Either user error or poor throat cooling. It can even happen with really cheap and poorly made nozzles. V6 does not mean its genuine E3D. If you see V6 and its not directly from E3D or a company in a contract with them, then its a Chineese clone. Yes, it matters... Their geometry inside the hotend needs to be machined properly, not rushed out cheaply. Thats why genuine ones cost more, and its how they got their reputation for being amazing hotends. They take care with machining, and they test and refine stuff, in house, daily.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;-The guy that started on a Cupcake back in 2008-2009 and now teaches it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37881" LastEditorUserId="37881" LastEditDate="2023-04-04T00:01:05.513" LastActivityDate="2023-04-04T00:01:05.513" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20780" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20776" CreationDate="2023-04-04T07:58:18.500" Score="0" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Totally unexpected behavior?!&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A heater cartridge is nothing but a resistor. Swapping the &amp;quot;polarity&amp;quot; should do nothing. As this results in totally different results, it is to be expected that the motherboard sustained damage in some area and would need a total refurbishment or replacement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastActivityDate="2023-04-04T07:58:18.500" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20781" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20767" CreationDate="2023-04-04T14:54:56.557" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Getting a seam that's not ugly is a matter of having proper retraction and Z-travel settings that don't let the nozzle ooze when starting/stopping an extrusion. These differ for every printer, but the settings in the Creality-sliced file are 0.8 mm retraction length, and 40 mm/s retraction (and unretraction) speed. These are a very good baseline to start tuning from for a direct drive extruder. Otherwise I don't see anything remarkable about their slicing. You can open it up in a gcode analyzer like &lt;a href=&quot;https://gcode.ws&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://gcode.ws&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;https://gcodeanalyser.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://gcodeanalyser.com&lt;/a&gt; to see where their seams are and check if anything else looks special to you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Faster Z moves will also help and let you turn off &amp;quot;retract at layer change&amp;quot; if you like, which can help. They have not done this in their file; it's sliced with a painfully slow 5 mm/s Z travel speed. Cura doesn't let you access this directly but it reuses the Z-hop speed, even if Z-hop isn't enabled, as the Z travel speed for layer changes. Increasing it won't help much without also increasing the Z acceleration in the printer firmware, though, since the moves are so short they don't have significant time to accelerate. I use 80 mm/s with 750 mm/s² for Z on my Ender, but I'm not sure if that's achievable without TMC 2209s stepper drivers in Spreadcycle mode. In any case, you can get completely acceptable seams without fast Z travel as long as you have &amp;quot;retract at layer change&amp;quot; on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2023-04-04T14:54:56.557" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20782" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20743" CreationDate="2023-04-04T18:23:39.470" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my experience, you should never print a figure like that upright as it A) takes too long and B) can cause problems with supports.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would recommend that you cut it on two pieces. One with the legs and one with the body. This will cut your print time almost in half.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next, tilt both parts backwards by at least 45 degrees. This will further reduce print time and will give you better supports as you can spread them out across a larger surface area while having a smaller surface area in contact with the FEP for each layer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My printer ins an Elegoo Saturn. I use Chitubox.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="29097" LastActivityDate="2023-04-04T18:23:39.470" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20784" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20842" CreationDate="2023-04-05T17:01:32.697" Score="3" ViewCount="341" Body="&lt;p&gt;After fiddling with the settings on my Cura profile, my Ender 3 S1 is now messing up my prints in a weird way. While printing, it just pauses at a corner on all the layers of the print for a second or so, leading to large blobs of material building up there. &lt;strong&gt;What setting(s), if any could be causing this?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a note, my Cura settings are anything but default. I mess around with a lot of different options to try to optimize my prints. I could reset the profile to default, but I'd rather keep most of my settings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a picture of the issue:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cJude.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cJude.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;issue&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9084" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2023-04-05T21:23:59.513" LastActivityDate="2023-04-17T18:26:52.843" Title="What Cura setting is messing up my prints?" Tags="|creality-ender-3|print-quality|ultimaker-cura|troubleshooting|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20785" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-04-05T17:28:17.900" Score="3" ViewCount="29" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5mu4O.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5mu4O.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;printing a single layer square 80mmx80mm&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;Trying to get my printer leveled correctly so I can make some stuff. Started printing this square and the back left corner is not getting enough adhesion. The front left and back right corners are fine. I think I need to either lower or raise the back left corner but not sure which... I try to tell what to do from how opacity of the layer but can't get a good reading.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I raise or lower back left corner of the layer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37844" LastActivityDate="2023-04-05T17:28:17.900" Title="Why is the corner of my layer doing this?" Tags="|bed-leveling|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20786" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20784" CreationDate="2023-04-05T21:48:06.330" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;To me this looks related to the Z-seam and retraction settings.&#xA;Play around with the Z-seam first by setting it to random. it might help. However, the retraction setting need adjusting as well. to me it look like is needs a bit more retraction. Hope it helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25699" LastActivityDate="2023-04-05T21:48:06.330" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20787" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14691" CreationDate="2023-04-06T11:27:39.803" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Now that I learned the truth about supporting the XY gantry, I can answer this. No, &lt;strong&gt;it’s not about complexity&lt;/strong&gt;, it’s about stability. There’s nothing complex about 3-axis movement. However, &lt;strong&gt;moving the gantry has more requirement&lt;/strong&gt; than moving the bed, and this additional requirement is the reason why many implementations stick to moving the bed instead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Why moving the bed instead is easier&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The XY gantry moves around quickly, horizontally. Which means that it &lt;em&gt;must&lt;/em&gt; be supported by at least 4 points of supports forming a square, otherwise, it’ll wobble. Yes, 3 points define a plane, yet the XY gantry cannot be stably supported with just 3 points, which is why this is challenging. &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/q/10417/37830&quot;&gt;Synchronizing the movements of those four supports is not as easy&lt;/a&gt; as linking them all together with a single belt. This introduces another challenge. To do this correctly, typically, it requires multiple motors for the Z axis (e.g. Voron 2.4 has four Z-axis motors.). And even with 4 points of supports, they can still fail to stably support the rapidly-horizontally-moving gantry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other hand, the stuff on the bed does not move around. The weight does not move around. Meaning, the bed is absolutely fine with less than 4 supporting points (e.g. 1, 2, or 3 leadscrews).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now you should see why moving the bed is considered as easier and more stable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37830" LastEditorUserId="37830" LastEditDate="2023-04-08T07:40:12.180" LastActivityDate="2023-04-08T07:40:12.180" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20788" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20789" CreationDate="2023-04-06T17:38:22.200" Score="1" ViewCount="243" Body="&lt;p&gt;So, the G-code preppended to my slicer output (by Cura itself) looks like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;; Ender 3 Custom Start G-code&#xA;G92 E0 ; Reset Extruder&#xA;G28 ; Home all axes&#xA;M104 S{material_standby_temperature} ; Start heating up the nozzle most of the way&#xA;M190 S{material_bed_temperature_layer_0} ; Start heating the bed, wait until target temperature reached&#xA;M109 S{material_print_temperature_layer_0} ; Finish heating the nozzle&#xA;G1 Z2.0 F3000 ; Move Z Axis up little to prevent scratching of Heat Bed&#xA;;G1 X0.1 Y20 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move to start position&#xA;;G1 X0.1 Y200.0 Z0.3 F1500.0 E15 ; Draw the first line&#xA;;G1 X0.4 Y200.0 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move to side a little&#xA;;G1 X0.4 Y20 Z0.3 F1500.0 E30 ; Draw the second line&#xA;;G92 E0 ; Reset Extruder&#xA;;G1 Z2.0 F3000 ; Move Z Axis up little to prevent scratching of Heat Bed&#xA;;G1 X5 Y20 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move over to prevent blob squish&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But this code seems to be causing issues where it ignores the ABL (auto bed leveling.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my case, this means that the extruder starts clicking, and I suspect that with the particular hotend I have, this causes issues.  For now, I have commented out all the code to draw the primer lines, as you can see.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a way to make them respect auto-leveling?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="34543" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2023-04-08T01:49:16.663" LastActivityDate="2023-04-08T01:49:16.663" Title="CURA prints some primer lines, but they don't seem to respect bed automatic bed leveling" Tags="|creality-ender-3|bed-leveling|g-code|automatic-bed-leveling|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20789" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20788" CreationDate="2023-04-06T19:12:56.803" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should add &lt;code&gt;M420 S&lt;/code&gt; command after &lt;code&gt;G28&lt;/code&gt; to Start G-code.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to &lt;a href=&quot;https://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M420.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Marlin docs&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;code&gt;G28&lt;/code&gt; command disables bed leveling by default.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;code&gt;G28&lt;/code&gt; disables bed leveling. Follow with &lt;code&gt;M420 S&lt;/code&gt; to turn leveling on, or use &lt;code&gt;RESTORE_LEVELING_AFTER_G28&lt;/code&gt; to automatically keep leveling on after &lt;code&gt;G28&lt;/code&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively, you can change the &lt;code&gt;RESTORE_LEVELING_AFTER_G28&lt;/code&gt; value to &lt;code&gt;true&lt;/code&gt; in firmware.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27865" LastActivityDate="2023-04-06T19:12:56.803" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20790" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20728" CreationDate="2023-04-07T06:16:18.350" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Overall, this solution should work, but have in mind, that modifying G-code files can be risky and may result in damaging your printer or causing other issues. Therefore, it is essential to exercise caution when creating and executing custom G-code.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As each instance includes a delay of 1200 seconds (20 minutes) and a movement of the Z-axis, the entire code should run for approximately 4 hours and 24 minutes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, keep in mind that you should periodically check the printer to ensure that everything is running smoothly and that no errors have occurred. Additionally, you may want to adjust the temperature and movement values based on your specific needs and printer settings. It is essential to exercise caution and closely monitor the printer during this operation to avoid any potential risks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27865" LastActivityDate="2023-04-07T06:16:18.350" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20791" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-04-07T11:36:26.677" Score="4" ViewCount="327" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am currently writing a &lt;code&gt;printer.cfg&lt;/code&gt; Klipper file for my Tronxy VEHO-600. It is quite a challenge as there is not much info regarding this printer online.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is recovery velocity something that I have to tune while the printer is operational, or can I give it an arbitrary value?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a CFG file for a VEHO-600 that a friend of mine put together, and he has it set to 300, but his printer is modified, so I'm unsure if this value would be the same for my standard VEHO-600. Hoping someone can advise me of what the feature is, so I can tune it myself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36794" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2023-04-07T13:09:45.890" LastActivityDate="2023-05-26T22:42:27.670" Title="What is recovery velocity in klipper firmware?" Tags="|klipper|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20792" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-04-07T13:02:27.607" Score="1" ViewCount="304" Body="&lt;p&gt;i recently took delivery of a tronxy veho 600, i found the standard firmware to be a major bottleneck so with the help of a raspberry pi 4b and a cr touch i am making some upgrades. unfortunately there is little to no info regarding the printer.cfg file for this model so im hoping someone on here will be able to advise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;i was lucky enough to find a file for a veho 600 but it was for a highly modified version so it wont be a straight fit for my one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;my main questions are regarding the extruder code block, following is an exerpt from the custom veho config file.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;[extruder]&#xA;step_pin: PB1&#xA;dir_pin: !PF13&#xA;enable_pin: !PF14&#xA;microsteps: 16&#xA;rotation_distance: 22.172 # Needs to be tweaked&#xA;gear_ratio: 50:10 #50:17 # BMG Clone ratio per klipper docs&#xA;nozzle_diameter: 0.400&#xA;filament_diameter: 1.750&#xA;heater_pin: PG7&#xA;sensor_type: Generic 3950&#xA;sensor_pin: PC3&#xA;#control: pid&#xA;#pid_Kp: 20.72&#xA;#pid_Ki: 1.88&#xA;#pid_Kd: 57.18&#xA;min_temp: 0&#xA;max_temp: 320&#xA;max_extrude_only_distance: 400&#xA;max_extrude_cross_section: 50.0&#xA;min_extrude_temp: 180 # dangerous, but bowden loading is much &#xA;easier without it&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;what is the definition of step pin&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;both dir_pin and enable_pin have values set but they include the ! before them, which means not. this confuses me, can anyone give any indication as to what/why this is?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&amp;quot;heater_pin: pg7&amp;quot; am i right in saying this is for the hot end heat block?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&amp;quot;sensor_pin: pc3&amp;quot; is this a temperature sensor or is it something else?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;all code lines relevant to the pid property are commented out, what is the reason for this? do i enable them when pid tuning or should i leave them off?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;can anyone give me an explanation as to what the last 3 lines of code do, one of them is quoted dangerous so i definately need to be sure before running.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36794" LastEditorUserId="36794" LastEditDate="2023-04-07T15:26:23.070" LastActivityDate="2023-04-07T15:26:23.070" Title="seeking out help writing a printer.cfg klipper file for a tronxy veho 600" Tags="|klipper|tronxy|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2023-04-20T20:33:58.120" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20793" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20767" CreationDate="2023-04-07T13:03:18.787" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This answer adresses the seam in the cat model. While it appears that there is no seam printed in this model, it most certainly is printed, but it is cleverly hidden in a sharp corner for you not to see the seam. Furthermore, by clever use of printing the infill first and then the outer perimeter, it appears that there is no seam. There isn't a definite start and stop (no retraction from infill to outer perimeter) and continues inner perimeter printing after the outer perimeter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can load the model in an online G-code visualizer to see for yourself. The Creality Cat is a specific showcase to show it's capabilities, but cannot simply be applied to all geometries, a sphere is difficult to print perfectly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2023-04-07T13:03:18.787" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20794" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20791" CreationDate="2023-04-07T13:50:13.027" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The only &amp;quot;recover velocity&amp;quot; I'm aware of is the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.klipper3d.org/Config_Reference.html#pause_resume&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;one for pause_resume functionality&lt;/a&gt; and should just be a reasonable travel velocity for your printer (probably the same as your max velocity if that's set correctly). 300 is quite low, probably fine for the X and Y axes of any printer that's running 24V motors or higher. The only potential problem might be if your max_z_velocity isn't set to limit Z; if it's not, resuming after pause where the toolhead is parked near the point where it was paused would put nearly the entire 300 mm/s on the Z axis. That's fine if you have a Z limit set to limit it, but if you don't, it would fail on most printers. So just make sure your Z velocity limit is set right and you should be fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2023-04-07T13:50:13.027" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20795" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-04-07T15:25:06.500" Score="1" ViewCount="185" Body="&lt;p&gt;the machine in question is a tronxy veho 600. i have obtained a printer.cfg file for a highly modified veho 600 but my one is standard bar the cr touch i have yet to install.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;the reason for this post is to understand why some of the setting in the modified printer.cfg are the way they are. following is the code for the 3 stepper motors&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;[stepper_x]&#xA;step_pin: PE5&#xA;dir_pin: !PF1&#xA;enable_pin: !PF0&#xA;microsteps: 16&#xA;rotation_distance: 60&#xA;endstop_pin: !PC15&#xA;position_endstop: -5&#xA;position_min: -5&#xA;position_max: 600 # for bed mesh&#xA;homing_speed: 200&#xA;homing_retract_dist: 10&#xA;second_homing_speed: 10.0&#xA;&#xA;[stepper_y]&#xA;step_pin: PF9&#xA;dir_pin:  PF3&#xA;enable_pin: !PF5&#xA;microsteps: 16&#xA;rotation_distance: 60&#xA;endstop_pin: !PC14&#xA;position_endstop: -10&#xA;position_min: -10&#xA;position_max: 600&#xA;homing_retract_dist: 10&#xA;homing_speed: 100.0&#xA;second_homing_speed: 10.0&#xA;&#xA;[stepper_z]&#xA;step_pin: PF6&#xA;dir_pin: !PF4&#xA;enable_pin: !PF7&#xA;microsteps: 16&#xA;rotation_distance: 12&#xA;endstop_pin: probe:z_virtual_endstop&#xA;endstop_pin: !PF11&#xA;#position_endstop: 611&#xA;position_max: 620&#xA;position_min: -5&#xA;homing_speed: 25.0&#xA;homing_retract_dist: 10&#xA;second_homing_speed: 10.0&#xA;&#xA;[stepper_z1]&#xA;step_pin: PA6&#xA;dir_pin: !PF15&#xA;enable_pin: !PA5&#xA;microsteps: 16&#xA;rotation_distance: 12&#xA;endstop_pin: !PC13&#xA;#position_endstop: 600&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;for the x and y axis.....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;step pin, according to klipper config reference it says &amp;quot;triggered high&amp;quot; what does this mean? i thought this was just a pin id.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;dir_pin, stated as not pf1. again i thought this is just a pin id so why the !, what am i missing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;same as question 2 only for the enable pin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;endstop_pin again set to not pc15.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;position_endstop set to -5. is this something i need to measure when the machine is running?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;position_min, same as question 5&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;position_max, obviously this is just the size of the bed and i would have left the thought train there but but the original creator states in a comment that it is for bed mesh which peaques my curiosity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;8.homing speed, is this just the speed the machine homes to once a print is finished or the homing function is initiated?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol start=&quot;9&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;homing_retract_dist. my guess is that when the homing function is initiated it moves to the corner of the bed, then moves another 10mm to bring it off the bed. is that correct?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;second_homing_speed set to 10 here, why does it have two homing speeds and why are there such large distances?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;for the z axis.....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;most of the questions i have already asked im only wondering why there are endstop properties and then measurements for &amp;quot;position_max and position_min&amp;quot;. shouldnt the end stop switches pick up this automatically? and also in z1 stepper why is position_endstop commented out?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36794" LastActivityDate="2023-04-07T15:25:06.500" Title="looking for help setting up stepper motor code blocks in klipper printer.cfg file" Tags="|klipper|tronxy|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2023-04-20T20:34:34.343" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20796" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20791" CreationDate="2023-04-07T16:01:20.427" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Recovery velocity&lt;/strong&gt; refers to the maximum speed at which the printer's extruder can move while recovering from a pause or filament change. When the printer is paused or filament is changed, the filament is retracted to prevent oozing and to ensure a clean start. Recovery velocity determines the speed at which the extruder moves during the priming process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It should be set based on the capabilities of your printer's extruder and the speed at which it can reliably prime itself. If the value is set too high, the extruder may not be able to keep up, resulting in under-extrusion or other issues. If the value is set too low, the priming process may take too long, resulting in wasted time during the print. Typically, it is set higher than the normal printing speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27865" LastActivityDate="2023-04-07T16:01:20.427" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20797" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-04-07T16:35:22.380" Score="3" ViewCount="848" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Tronxy VEHO-600 I'm currently vamping up with Klipper. I have a config file I got from a friend for a modified VEHO-600. My question is regarding the heater bed code block seen below:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;[heater_bed]&#xA;heater_pin: PE2&#xA;sensor_type: EPCOS 100K B57560G104F&#xA;sensor_pin: PC2&#xA;min_temp: 0&#xA;max_temp: 150&#xA;#control: pid&#xA;#pid_Kp: 73.932&#xA;#pid_Ki: 1.521&#xA;#pid_Kd: 898.279&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why are all the options for PID commented out? Is this only active when PID tuning? Also, what are the numerical values?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36794" LastEditorUserId="27865" LastEditDate="2023-04-08T17:27:00.123" LastActivityDate="2023-12-06T15:05:56.103" Title="Why are the options for PID control commented out in Klipper config file?" Tags="|klipper|pid|tronxy|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20798" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2023-04-08T01:55:04.743" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The automation of the process of bed leveling is frequently used with some sort of a sensor to sense the distance to the platform; such a process is referred to as Auto Bed Leveling (ABL). These sensors scan the build surface to compensate for local or global surface deficiencies.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See also &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/bed-leveling&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;bed-leveling&amp;#39;&quot; aria-label=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;bed-leveling&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot; aria-labelledby=&quot;tag-bed-leveling-tooltip-container&quot;&gt;bed-leveling&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4762" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2023-04-08T01:55:04.743" LastActivityDate="2023-04-08T01:55:04.743" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20799" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2023-04-08T01:55:04.743" Score="0" Body="Use this tag for questions regarding the automatic leveling of the build platform." OwnerUserId="4762" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2023-04-08T01:55:04.743" LastActivityDate="2023-04-08T01:55:04.743" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20800" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20797" CreationDate="2023-04-08T18:09:27.953" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This PID options are commented out, because they are not currently being used. Klipper allows for different heating algorithms, and PID control is just one of them.&#xA;If no control option is specified in the config file, Klipper will use Bang-Bang control as the default heating algorithm for the heated bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The numerical values in the commented out lines (&lt;code&gt;pid_Kp&lt;/code&gt;, &lt;code&gt;pid_Ki&lt;/code&gt;, &lt;code&gt;pid_Kd&lt;/code&gt;) are the PID tuning parameters, which are specific to each printer and must be tuned to achieve stable temperature control.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you were to uncomment these lines, Klipper would use PID control to manage the temperature of the heated bed, and the numerical values would need to be adjusted through a tuning process to optimize the performance of the PID controller for your printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27865" LastActivityDate="2023-04-08T18:09:27.953" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20801" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2023-04-08T18:16:29.363" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;PID (Proportional Integral Derivative) control is a method of maintaining a stable temperature for a heated bed or hotend.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27865" LastEditorUserId="27865" LastEditDate="2023-04-08T19:32:09.050" LastActivityDate="2023-04-08T19:32:09.050" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20802" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2023-04-08T18:16:29.363" Score="0" Body="For questions related to PID control." OwnerUserId="27865" LastEditorUserId="27865" LastEditDate="2023-04-08T19:31:56.967" LastActivityDate="2023-04-08T19:31:56.967" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20803" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-04-08T18:42:49.523" Score="3" ViewCount="2460" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Tronxy VEHO-600 and I have a config file, which I got from a friend. My question is regarding the following code block:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;[stepper_x]&#xA;step_pin: PE5&#xA;dir_pin: !PF1&#xA;enable_pin: !PF0&#xA;microsteps: 16&#xA;rotation_distance: 60&#xA;endstop_pin: !PC15&#xA;position_endstop: -5&#xA;position_min: -5&#xA;position_max: 600 # for bed mesh&#xA;homing_speed: 200&#xA;homing_retract_dist: 10&#xA;second_homing_speed: 10.0&#xA;&#xA;[stepper_y]&#xA;step_pin: PF9&#xA;dir_pin:  PF3&#xA;enable_pin: !PF5&#xA;microsteps: 16&#xA;rotation_distance: 60&#xA;endstop_pin: !PC14&#xA;position_endstop: -10&#xA;position_min: -10&#xA;position_max: 600&#xA;homing_retract_dist: 10&#xA;homing_speed: 100.0&#xA;second_homing_speed: 10.0&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is &lt;code&gt;position_min&lt;/code&gt; how far off the bed the axis needs to go to hit the end stop? I think it is not, as there is a &lt;code&gt;position_endstop&lt;/code&gt; declaration just above it, so what is the difference?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36794" LastEditorUserId="27865" LastEditDate="2023-04-08T20:07:59.867" LastActivityDate="2023-08-03T12:23:47.820" Title="What is the difference between position_min and position_endstop parameters in Klipper config file?" Tags="|klipper|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20804" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-04-08T19:50:33.387" Score="2" ViewCount="511" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hypothetically, if one has a print consisting of very simple shapes at some z-heights but very complicated shapes at other z-heights, it seems like it might be a good idea to run the overall mesh with different layer heights at different parts of the print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a common way to convince slicers to do this in general?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Specifically is there any way to make Cura do this?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="34543" LastActivityDate="2023-04-11T23:59:55.747" Title="Can any slicers adjust the layer height based on which layer is being printed? (FDM)" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|slicing|layer-height|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20805" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20804" CreationDate="2023-04-08T20:34:57.707" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://ultimaker.com/learn/print-detailed-objects-faster-using-adaptive-layers-in-ultimaker-cura&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Adaptive Layers&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt; should be the function you are looking for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VUFd0.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VUFd0.png&quot; alt=&quot;Screenshot of Adaptive Layers in Cura&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It allows the slicer to change the layer height dynamically throughout the print, based on the complexity of the geometry being printed. This can lead to improved print quality in areas where high detail is required, while still maintaining print speed in areas where less detail is needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PrusaSlicer's equivalent is &lt;a href=&quot;https://help.prusa3d.com/article/variable-layer-height-function_1750&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Variable layer height&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27865" LastActivityDate="2023-04-08T20:34:57.707" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20806" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20803" CreationDate="2023-04-08T21:09:18.617" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;These parameters are related to the minimum position of the axis, but they have slightly different usages.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;strong&gt;&lt;code&gt;position_min&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; parameter refers to the lowest possible position of the axis, regardless of the endstop position. It is used to prevent the axis from going too far in one direction, which could cause damage to the printer. It specifies the minimum physical position that the motor can be set to, regardless of the endstop position.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;strong&gt;&lt;code&gt;position_endstop&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; parameter specifies the physical position of the endstop switch relative to the axis, which is used during homing operations to determine the actual position of the axis. When the motor reaches this position, it will trigger the endstop switch and stop the motor from moving any further in that direction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27865" LastActivityDate="2023-04-08T21:09:18.617" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20807" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2023-04-09T11:45:28.417" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;A Direct Drive extruder is a type of extruder system used in FDM 3D printers. In a Direct Drive extruder system, the extruder motor is mounted directly above or beside the hotend, and the filament is pushed directly into the hotend.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27865" LastEditorUserId="27865" LastEditDate="2023-04-09T12:07:44.157" LastActivityDate="2023-04-09T12:07:44.157" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20808" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2023-04-09T11:45:28.417" Score="0" Body="For questions related to direct drive extruders." OwnerUserId="27865" LastEditorUserId="27865" LastEditDate="2023-04-09T12:07:47.913" LastActivityDate="2023-04-09T12:07:47.913" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20810" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20811" CreationDate="2023-04-10T09:41:49.927" Score="11" ViewCount="1614" Body="&lt;p&gt;As these are the two most commonly used extruder systems in FDM printers, I would like to know what is the difference between them. What are the advantages and disadvantages of using each of them?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27865" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2023-04-10T10:18:42.050" LastActivityDate="2023-04-12T19:17:52.883" Title="What is the difference between a Bowden extruder and a direct drive extruder?" Tags="|extruder|bowden|knowledgebase|direct-drive|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20811" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20810" CreationDate="2023-04-10T09:41:49.927" Score="17" Body="&lt;p&gt;A Bowden extruder and a direct drive extruder are two different types of extruder systems used in FDM 3D printers. Both feed filament into the hotend, but differ in the way the filament is pushed into it. The main difference is the location of the extruder motor relative to the hotend, which results in some pros and cons in the usage of both of them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Bowden extruder&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A Bowden extruder has the motor located remotely from the hotend, usually on the printer's frame. Filament is fed from the motor to the hotend through a Bowden tube. This setup is typically used in 3D printers that require high speeds and accelerations, as the reduced weight of the hotend allows for faster and more accurate movement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SECMW.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SECMW.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Visualization of the Bowden extruder system&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main advantage of a Bowden extruder is that it reduces the weight of the printhead. It can improve print speed and accuracy, especially for faster print speeds. It also reduces the amount of space required in the printhead, allowing for larger hotends or additional features to be added.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, Bowden extruders can suffer from problems with filament control, such as oozing or stringing of the filament. The friction in the Bowden tube and distance between the extruder and the hotend causes the reaction time of each motor movement to be extended.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Direct drive extruder&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A direct drive extruder has the motor located directly above or beside the hotend, which eliminates the need for a Bowden tube. The Bowden tube is typically very short or totally absent. This setup is used in printers that require precise filament control and are capable of printing with a wide range of materials.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FN9FK.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FN9FK.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Visualization of the direct drive extruder system&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main advantage of a direct drive extruder system is that it minimizes the distance between the extruder and the hotend. It allows for better control of the filament and reduces friction due to a shorter distance between the extruder and the hotend. This allows to use smaller values of retraction settings, which can reduce stringing and oozing. It results in better control of demanding filaments. Direct drive extruders can handle flexible and soft filaments more effectively.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, the added weight of the extruder motor can result in slower printing speeds and reduced accuracy during high-speed printing. A heavier printhead can also cause artifacts and ringing on the surface of the prints.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In summary, Bowden extruders are better suited for high-speed printing and have a lower risk of filament contamination, while Direct Drive extruders are better suited for more precise printing and more demanding materials. The choice between these two systems ultimately depends on the specific requirements of the printer and the printing application. Costs also have to be taken into account, because direct drive extruders are relatively more expensive than Bowden extruders.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27865" LastEditorUserId="27865" LastEditDate="2023-04-12T19:17:52.883" LastActivityDate="2023-04-12T19:17:52.883" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20812" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20833" CreationDate="2023-04-10T14:47:28.193" Score="1" ViewCount="294" Body="&lt;p&gt;We have an old Anet A8 3D printer. It took us a while to fix it and get it running. But when it prints, the filament curls up and sticks to the nozzle end and doesn't stick to the bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sometimes it doesn't curl up, if I wipe the nozzle after the printer starts. But when it prints, a portion of the filament sticks to the bed, but as the head moves, the whole thread of the filament dries up quickly and drags the part that did stick with it, messing everything up and curling up the nozzle like the first case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My Anet A8 has a heated bed, but although the bed heats up, it seems like the filament dries up too quickly. Is that the problem, how to fix it ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37946" LastEditorUserId="27865" LastEditDate="2023-04-10T18:22:00.137" LastActivityDate="2023-04-15T07:20:34.033" Title="Filament curls up in the nozzle and doesn't stick to the bed" Tags="|troubleshooting|adhesion|anet-a8|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20814" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-04-10T18:22:48.620" Score="1" ViewCount="92" Body="&lt;p&gt;The bed adhesion is going from already mediocre to unusable. So I got my glass plate. With my previous printer I really liked printing PLA on a 60 °C alcohol-cleaned bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem that I am having, is that the auto-leveling procedure fails. The bed sensors are detected 3 mm (glass height) sooner than it anticipates.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Customer support told me that I can alter this in the slicer settings. &amp;quot;It can be done in CURA or whatever slicer I am using&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am using that Wiibuilder program that was supplied with the printer on the SD card. I may or may not have searched hard enough, but I haven't found it.  I did find this&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fGS3T.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Screenshot of Wiibuilder's Warping Precaution settings&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fGS3T.png&quot; alt=&quot;Screenshot of Wiibuilder's Warping Precaution settings&quot; title=&quot;Screenshot of Wiibuilder's Warping Precaution settings&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Only it does not do anything. The auto-leveling still fails.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Customer support also told me I can just alter the G-code. They neglect to mention how to do so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This seems to be the starting part.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;M73 P0&#xA;;MINX:-9.0&#xA;;MAXX:12.0&#xA;;MINY:-26.0&#xA;;MAXY:25.0&#xA;;MINZ:0.0&#xA;;MAXZ:26.3&#xA;;MachineType:MP Mini Delta V2&#xA;;FilamentType:PLA&#xA;;Extruder0Temperature:200&#xA;;BedTemperature:55&#xA;;InfillDensity:10&#xA;;FLAVOR:Marlin&#xA;;TIME:1372&#xA;;FilamentUsed:1557.2&#xA;;Layer height: 0.35&#xA;&#xA;;Generated with Cura_SteamEngine 3.1&#xA;M140 S55&#xA;M104 T0 S215&#xA;M82 ; absolute extrusion mode&#xA;;(**** start.gcode for MP Mini Delta****)&#xA;G21&#xA;G90&#xA;M82&#xA;M107&#xA;M104 S170&#xA;G28 X0 Y0&#xA;G28 Z0&#xA;G29 Z0.4&#xA;G1 Z15 F300&#xA;M109 S215.0&#xA;G92 E0&#xA;G1 F200 E3&#xA;G92 E0&#xA;G1 F2000&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can somebody tell me what I must alter or add here to let the printer auto-level with the 3 mm glass bed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried setting &lt;code&gt;G29&lt;/code&gt; on  &lt;code&gt;3.4&lt;/code&gt; no effect.&#xA;I tried setting &lt;code&gt;G29&lt;/code&gt; on &lt;code&gt;-2.6&lt;/code&gt; no effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37948" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2023-04-10T18:38:29.847" LastActivityDate="2023-04-10T18:38:29.847" Title="Monoprice MP Mini Delta adding glass bed" Tags="|g-code|monoprice-mini-delta|automatic-bed-leveling|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20815" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20816" CreationDate="2023-04-10T20:06:02.577" Score="4" ViewCount="415" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am having a lot of troubles with running my Prusa Mk3S at my student dorm, because of the extremely loud stock part cooling fan - it annoys people A LOT). So I started working on a design using one or two Noctua 40x20 axial fans (2 to get more static pressure) as part cooling fans.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I wanted to ask if it/they would provide sufficient cooling to replace the centrifugal fan currently on the extruder assembly.&#xA;Does anyone have some experience on these kinds of builds?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="34042" LastActivityDate="2023-04-11T14:03:11.783" Title="Is a 40x20 Noctua fan with a shroud good for part cooling?" Tags="|prusa-i3|cooling|print-fan|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20816" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20815" CreationDate="2023-04-11T14:03:11.783" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This probably does not make sense.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Noctua fans are quiet because they're really low-flow, and aside from really high-power (and noisy!) models like 4028 server fans, axial fans in general are unsuitable for part cooling because they have essentially no static pressure, meaning you can't run them through narrowing ducts. If you can just mount them to blow directly where you need the air, without a duct compressing it at all, they might work, but this tends to lead to a bulky toolhead that collides with ends of the axis, reducing your build volume, or that's cantilevered in ways that subjects the whole toolhead to vibrations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would look for a quieter radial blower fan that meets your needs. Note that the high quality dual-ball-bearing fans are generally a lot noisier than the garbage sleeve-bearing ones; the advantage is that the bearings don't wear out after a year or so. But if your goal is minimizing noise, you might do best to just buy new sleeve-bearing fans when they wear out. Knowing Prusa, they probably put the high quality fans on there, which would be why they make more noise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2023-04-11T14:03:11.783" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20817" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20804" CreationDate="2023-04-11T23:59:55.747" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Slic3r has an &amp;quot;Adaptive Quality&amp;quot; setting. The roll-over tool tip says, &amp;quot;Automatically determine layer heights by the objects topology instead of using the static value...&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I used it to print a bushing, oriented vertically, with large chamfers on ID and OD. I set layer height to 0.3 mm and turned on Adaptive Quality. Adaptive Quality includes a Quality parameter that I left at the default of 75%. It printed the layers at the chamfers at 0.16 and 0.17 mm and the rest at 0.3 mm layer heights.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="33030" LastActivityDate="2023-04-11T23:59:55.747" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20818" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20819" CreationDate="2023-04-12T09:05:18.153" Score="2" ViewCount="124" Body="&lt;p&gt;I tried to print my first object, which is the calibration cube downloaded from here, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1278865&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;XYZ 20mm Calibration Cube&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, the output has a visible infill on all sides:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Sh8x4.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Photo of calibration cube with visible infill on all sides&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Sh8x4.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Photo of calibration cube with visible infill on all sides&quot; title=&quot;Photo of calibration cube with visible infill on all sides&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think this is because some settings are not correct in the slicer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am using:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Printer: Ender 3&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Slicer: Ultimaker Cura 5.3.0&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37945" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2023-04-12T10:06:44.267" LastActivityDate="2023-04-12T16:35:40.500" Title="Print output missing sides" Tags="|creality-ender-3|ultimaker-cura|troubleshooting|slicing|infill|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20819" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20818" CreationDate="2023-04-12T09:29:36.867" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It looks like perimeters and solid layers are not set in the Slicer. Make sure that these settings are greater than zero:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZvAkK.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Settings to set in the slicer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZvAkK.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Settings to set in the slicer&quot; title=&quot;Settings to set in the slicer&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27865" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2023-04-12T16:35:40.500" LastActivityDate="2023-04-12T16:35:40.500" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20820" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20925" CreationDate="2023-04-12T14:55:49.610" Score="2" ViewCount="628" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Ender3V2 Creality 3D printer. I recently changed the extruder for a metal one because the previous was broken.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have troubles to print now. The adhesion layer peels off easily (kinds of bubbles inside that lift it) and the overall quality is poor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While looking for a solution, I noticed that my extruder was not calibrated correctly. However, following the standard procedure does not fix my problem. Below is what I did and the results:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FISYA.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Extruder diagram&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FISYA.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Extruder diagram&quot; title=&quot;Extruder diagram&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The PTFE tube is disconnected to avoid eventual nozzle problem.&#xA;I asked for 10 cm extrusion severals times, and the results were as follows (distance in mm):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kbcxq.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Experimentation table&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kbcxq.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Experimentation table&quot; title=&quot;Experimentation table&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ratio is &lt;em&gt;Transmission ratio E&lt;/em&gt;, that I found in &lt;strong&gt;Control&lt;/strong&gt; -&amp;gt; &lt;strong&gt;Motion&lt;/strong&gt; -&amp;gt; &lt;strong&gt;Transmission ratio&lt;/strong&gt; -&amp;gt; &lt;strong&gt;Transmission ratio E&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't understand these results. The initial ratio change should have corrected the under-extrusion. Returning to 93 should also have given me the same result as initially.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I didn't use any G-code, I just used the printer panel (for both ratio changing &amp;amp; asking for extrusion).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I followed this video, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TZYdqSUn5E4&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;How TO Calibrate The Esteps On A Direct Drive Extruder The EASY Way!&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/TZYdqSUn5E4?start=0&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and used this &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.th3dstudio.com/estep-calculator/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;EStep Calculator – V1.1&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37314" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2023-05-14T08:27:25.117" LastActivityDate="2023-05-14T08:27:25.117" Title="Creality Ender3V2 extruder calibration" Tags="|creality-ender-3|extrusion|calibration|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20821" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20825" CreationDate="2023-04-12T16:56:04.757" Score="4" ViewCount="101" Body="&lt;p&gt;I got my first 3D printer this week, a Creality Ender 3.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tried to print a few small samples to test it, but every shape I printed had an extra external layer. Please, check these images:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nfh7h.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Photo of printed object with extra layer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nfh7h.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Photo of printed object with extra layer&quot; title=&quot;Photo of printed object with extra layer&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gngpk.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Photo of extra layer, with layer pulled to one side&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gngpk.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Photo of extra layer, with layer pulled to one side&quot; title=&quot;Photo of extra layer, with layer pulled to one side&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I used Freecad to draw the objects, and Slic3r to convert them to G-code.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Am I doing something wrong? Is my printer not a good one?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any comment will be very helpful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37970" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2023-04-15T07:23:59.813" LastActivityDate="2023-04-15T07:23:59.813" Title="Extra external layer (shell) on my first prints" Tags="|creality-ender-3|troubleshooting|underextrusion|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20823" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20829" CreationDate="2023-04-12T20:25:28.247" Score="2" ViewCount="333" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm using a 65W heater cartridge and T-D500 type NTC thermistor. This setup has been working fine since I installed it sometime last year. Suddenly today, the temperature reading started jumping around 5-25° below the set temperature, but only while printing. It holds temperature solid at idle, and PID autotune produces numbers like normal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How should I go about diagnosing what component is bad? Is it necessarily the cartridge or thermistor (or rather their wiring) or could it be noise or voltage instability or something else?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2023-06-03T22:06:40.390" Title="Diagnosing sudden problem with hotend temperature" Tags="|troubleshooting|hotend|thermistor|thermal-runaway|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20824" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-04-12T22:06:07.960" Score="2" ViewCount="74" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just started resin printing in order to build enclosures for my little microcontroller projects. Sadly, I am having trouble getting good, planar, rectangular objects to print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Background: I have no prior experience with filament or resin printing. I chose resin over filament for its higher precision, which I will need in future projects. I bought a well-recommended, popular 4K monochrome LCD printer. I was unwise in selecting a translucent resin for my learning-curve projects, but the first project required color. &lt;em&gt;(Note to self: try paint.)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My first three prints were throw-aways as I learned the essentials. The first print was pretty encouraging, but I used no supports (the first 'essential') and it split during removal from the adhesion plate. The next two suffered drop-outs due to underexposure; a careful cleaning of the FEP was done after each to remove the pancaked material left behind.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Print 004 was promising, but had a rounded (drooping) corner and signs of pooling on the top of the rectangle. For print 005 I added more supports to that corner, thinned the rest out to increase drainage, and reduced exposure in hopes that this would avoid 'freezing' resin on the upper surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I seek advice on this pooling problem. Photo below. Print 005 shows 'waves', much like windswept water, 'above' each support point. The interior surfaces which were &amp;quot;face down&amp;quot; during printing are all pleasingly smooth and planar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Elbow grease and 220-320-400 sandpaper can produce a more finished look; print 004 has been sanded and is on the left edge of the photo. But I really should only need to do a very light sanding, and then only to buff out tiny remnants of the supports, correct?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These objects were printed with 5mm lift and ~35 deg. tilt on both X and Y, lower-right corner first, upper-left last.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After reviewing my post, I suspect I need a lower exposure time.. but.. those drop-outs..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for your time,&#xA;Regards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PS: I neglected to mention that I do wash the prints before sun-curing them. I remove them from the build plate (with due caution), immerse them in about 2cm of IPA, agitate for 15-30 seconds, remove and rinse with non-chlorinated water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uWPeN.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uWPeN.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Sample 005, showing surface irregularities and a lack of rectilinear edges around the exterior&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37972" LastEditorUserId="27865" LastEditDate="2023-04-17T08:28:02.603" LastActivityDate="2023-04-21T07:30:56.667" Title="Any suggestions on problems with viscosity?" Tags="|print-quality|troubleshooting|sla|smoothing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20825" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20821" CreationDate="2023-04-13T08:08:18.197" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you do some quick calculations it appears that this is caused by under-extrusion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Comparing the extruded volume to the calculated volume for the deposition there is a mismatch of about 2.6. This hints to the use of an incorrect diameter for the filament &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$\frac{2.85^2}{1.75^2}=2.65$&lt;/span&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2023-04-13T08:08:18.197" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20826" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2023-04-13T13:06:28.817" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Stringing&lt;/strong&gt; is a common issue that can occur during 3D printing, particularly with Fused Deposition Modeling (FDM) technology. It refers to thin strands of filament material that are unintentionally deposited between separate parts of a 3D print, creating a web-like effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Typically, it occurs when the extruder nozzle continues to extrude filament material while moving between different parts of a 3D print, leaving small threads of filament behind. This can be caused by several factors, including improper temperature or retraction settings, incorrect print speed, and filament quality.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Stringing can negatively affect the quality and accuracy of a 3D print, as well as increase print time and material waste. However, it can be prevented or reduced by adjusting the printer's settings and optimizing the printing process. For example, reducing the print temperature or increasing the retraction distance can help to minimize stringing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27865" LastEditorUserId="27865" LastEditDate="2023-04-13T15:28:18.117" LastActivityDate="2023-04-13T15:28:18.117" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20827" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2023-04-13T13:06:28.817" Score="0" Body="For questions related to stringing issues." OwnerUserId="27865" LastEditorUserId="27865" LastEditDate="2023-04-13T15:28:31.887" LastActivityDate="2023-04-13T15:28:31.887" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20828" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20681" CreationDate="2023-04-13T18:43:51.810" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I ran another test.  This time I used the USB device that came with the printer.  The print finished without errors.  I'm not sure why using a different USB device would impact the WiFi printing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: I have some suspicions that using a quality setting of High may have actually caused the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23798" LastActivityDate="2023-04-13T18:43:51.810" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20829" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20823" CreationDate="2023-04-13T19:39:07.580" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This isn't a complete diagnostic procedure, but what worked for me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After asking around and thinking about the magnitude of the fluctuations, a bad heater cartridge or bad connection to the heater cartridge didn't make a lot of sense, even at 25 mm³/s flow and over 300 °C where I was experiencing the problems. To try to confirm this, I went back and tried a print at 250 °C. I also measured the cartridge resistance and found it about 1 ohm high (underperforming) but this was nowhere near enough to explain any problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since the thermistor seemed the most likely culprit, I then disassembled the toolhead to check its mounting and possibly replace it. It was still firmly mounted, and had no visible damage to the wiring, which is protected by a spring coil. Since my block has an attachment point for the glass bead style thermistor too, I found my original Creality-issue one of those and attached it too. After putting things back together and switching configuration to accept the old thermistor, I was able to make test prints without the rapidly fluctuating temperature readings. Over 300, there's still some fluctuation, but that seems to be accounted for by the very low resistance (and thereby low measurement precision) the 100k has at these temperatures, where 1 ohm is more than a 5 °C difference and the ADC resolution is only something like 1/16 of an ohm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, it seems to be a bad thermistor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Update: After limping along for a good while on the 100k NTC thermistor bead, I finally disassembled everything to replace the T-D500, and immediately found the culprit. The wires to thermistor are not a single piece, but were sloppily solder-joined and heat-shrink-wrapped by the vendor(/reseller?) a few centimeters from the thermistor. This exact point in my wire harness was somewhat strained at the point where it exited between the hotend enclosure and extruder body, and apparently suffered a hairline crack that fell apart completely during disassembly:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/f1Uxy.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/f1Uxy.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;photo of disassembled toolhead with broken thermistor wires&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To make it easier to switch thermistors in the future if I need to, and since I was needing to learn crimping, I put JST-XH connectors on both sides where it was broken, and shifted the junction to sit inside the enclosure but away from the heater block. It's now fully operational again, and the replacement I purchased is still sitting in its bag as a spare.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastEditorUserId="11157" LastEditDate="2023-06-03T22:06:40.390" LastActivityDate="2023-06-03T22:06:40.390" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20830" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20831" CreationDate="2023-04-14T20:47:05.893" Score="6" ViewCount="8357" Body="&lt;p&gt;Going through the printer options, I came across the &lt;strong&gt;&lt;code&gt;Fade Height&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; option under &lt;code&gt;Bed Leveling&lt;/code&gt; section.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HFt9y.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HFt9y.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Fade Height option on printer's screen&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is it and what is its use in Marlin firmware?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27865" LastEditorUserId="27865" LastEditDate="2023-04-15T05:58:16.020" LastActivityDate="2023-04-16T06:50:02.380" Title="What is the Fade Height option in Marlin?" Tags="|marlin|bed-leveling|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20831" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20830" CreationDate="2023-04-14T20:47:05.893" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Fade Height&lt;/strong&gt; is used to specify the height above the bed at which the printer should stop fading the bed leveling correction. Bed leveling is gradually decreasing with each successive layer until fade height is reached. From this height, bed leveling compensation becomes turned off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3ZU1h.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3ZU1h.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Presentation of how Fade Height works&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, if the bed is slightly warped or uneven, the printer may need to compensate by lowering the nozzle at the center of the bed but less so near the edges of the bed. By setting Fade height, the printer will gradually decrease the correction as it moves away from the center of the bed, resulting in more accurate print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to &lt;a href=&quot;https://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M420.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Marlin docs&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With Fade height enabled, bed leveling correction is gradually reduced as the nozzle gets closer to the Fade height. Above the Fade height no bed leveling compensation is applied at all, so movement is machine true.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27865" LastEditorUserId="27865" LastEditDate="2023-04-16T06:50:02.380" LastActivityDate="2023-04-16T06:50:02.380" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20832" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19400" CreationDate="2023-04-15T01:51:19.777" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;To confirm the OP's issue using Cura 5.2.1 and 5.3 (4/13/2023), as opposed to 4.x, I am attempting to change nozzle size on Ender 3 Pro and this is not in the following menu:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;code&gt;Manage Printers&amp;gt;Ender 3 Pro&amp;gt;Machine Settings&amp;gt;Extruder&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can see on the left, I am using Cura version 5.2.1 (Mac OS 12.6 Monterrey)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sGzG4.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Cura version&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sGzG4.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Cura version&quot; title=&quot;Cura version&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was trying to create a profile for when I have the 1 mm Nozzle on there:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/I2CyB.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Preferences - Profiles dialog&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/I2CyB.png&quot; alt=&quot;Preferences - Profiles dialog&quot; title=&quot;Preferences - Profiles dialog&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I &lt;em&gt;was&lt;/em&gt; able to find Nozzle Diameter in a different place and change it successfully:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aJNU2.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Nozzle diameter location&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aJNU2.png&quot; alt=&quot;Nozzle diameter location&quot; title=&quot;Nozzle diameter location&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9452" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2023-04-15T09:52:32.803" LastActivityDate="2023-04-15T09:52:32.803" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20833" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20812" CreationDate="2023-04-15T06:03:46.977" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It looks like it is a problem with temperature. After changing filament temperature to 260 °C it prints excellent now. Printing PLA at 215 °C also works pretty well. Fresh new spool does magic or PLA does magic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37946" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2023-04-15T07:20:34.033" LastActivityDate="2023-04-15T07:20:34.033" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20838" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-04-15T23:28:15.700" Score="2" ViewCount="31" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've asked about this first printing project of mine before, and made progress in exposure, orientation, and supports. But as the photo shows, something is still causing the objects to warp (badly) during printing. They looked like this as soon as the build plate lifted and the job was done. I cured them right on the plate to avoid introducing any more warp during removal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know if large, thin-walled objects are just prone to this in resin printing - if so, I'll need to rethink my design.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The irregular thickening around the supports (left sides) is another topic I have open, so this question is just about the warping.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do ask for any details you would like to help the discussion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regards!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;The results, and their print orientation:&lt;/em&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nv38d.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;What should be a nice box..&quot; /&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/K1GgS.png&quot; alt=&quot;The print layout&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37972" LastEditorUserId="27865" LastEditDate="2023-04-17T08:18:15.250" LastActivityDate="2023-04-17T08:18:15.250" Title="What's the most likely source of this warpage?" Tags="|print-quality|troubleshooting|sla|warping|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20839" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-04-16T17:02:27.940" Score="2" ViewCount="236" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've just got an Ender-3 Pro printer and set it up according to general recommendations, including bed leveling (I used the &amp;quot;paper in the corners&amp;quot; technique). The test model that comes with the printer (a lucky cat figure) came out perfectly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After that, I tried to print this model - &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1565405&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Cat Stretch&lt;/a&gt;. I saw in the comments that others printed it successfully without support on the same printer, so I didn't add it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Initially, everything was fine and the legs were printed ok, but the print broke into tangled filaments at some point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/X4Hg2.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/X4Hg2.png&quot; alt=&quot;3D printed figure of the cat broke into tangled filaments&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could somebody please advise what could have gone wrong?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="38013" LastEditorUserId="27865" LastEditDate="2023-04-16T18:05:17.993" LastActivityDate="2023-04-17T01:10:57.660" Title="The print broke into tangled filaments" Tags="|creality-ender-3|troubleshooting|adhesion|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20840" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20839" CreationDate="2023-04-17T01:10:57.660" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;As it was suggested by @kosteklvp the problem was most likely caused by the detachment of the hind legs from the base. I added a brim and it helped.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1cpbW.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1cpbW.png&quot; alt=&quot;Cat&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="38013" LastActivityDate="2023-04-17T01:10:57.660" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20841" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20952" CreationDate="2023-04-17T07:48:21.847" Score="2" ViewCount="721" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an organic but more complex STL model. It is so detailed and every detail is important to us.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We have a remesh tool in Meshmixer. It says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With Meshmixer, you can create an even tessellation using the Remesh command. Click the Select Icon in the menu and click to create an area to be remeshed, or use Ctrl + A to select the entire object. On the Popup menu, click Edit → Remesh or hit R.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Question:&#xA;When applying this tool to my STL model, does it happen that any detail will be gone off? Or, will I get same complex model?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23759" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2023-05-15T12:01:55.673" LastActivityDate="2023-05-15T12:01:55.673" Title="With remesh tool in Meshmixer; What happens to the details of the model?" Tags="|stl|meshmixer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20842" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20784" CreationDate="2023-04-17T18:26:52.843" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Similar to what @kosteklvp suggested, it turns out the problem was related to the SD card I was using. It was a microSD card with an adapter, which may have been the problem. After swapping it out with for a different SD card, the printer now functions properly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9084" LastActivityDate="2023-04-17T18:26:52.843" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20843" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4288" CreationDate="2023-04-18T13:08:55.057" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my case, the build plate adhesion type was set to raft in the cura software settings which is why a base will be printed first before printing the object on it. Hence, the bottom of the printed object will look rough because it needs to be easily separable from the initially  printed base. Build plate adhesion type should be set to brim, skirt or none, the bottom print should be smooth. That was what worked for me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="38027" LastActivityDate="2023-04-18T13:08:55.057" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20844" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-04-18T16:09:32.303" Score="0" ViewCount="353" Body="&lt;p&gt;I moved a little the belt tension, and now the last layer is awful and weird. How I will know the correct tension? My printer is a custom BLV 220 x 220 x 280.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think and I am almost sure, that this happened because the filament got a little tangled in the profile where I put the spool of it while printing, but, last week this happened, and since that moment, it has been having problems, which I am going to show and explain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The top-left corner, after I started to change the tension belt, was worst, because the corner was more pronounced, pulling as elongated, in the image you can see a little, but it was worse the last few days.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And now, the rectangle orange, is new, because yesterday I changed the tension belt, and the last layer is like I show in the image.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/URHPj.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/URHPj.png&quot; alt=&quot;one&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At this moment, I am testing different tension, but the result is worse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/H6Vq8.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/H6Vq8.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;double&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12715" LastActivityDate="2023-04-24T09:56:44.147" Title="How graduate the correct belt tension" Tags="|belt|corexy|belt-printer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20845" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-04-19T15:47:57.607" Score="1" ViewCount="2711" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have recently bought an Ender 3 S1 Pro and it has been a bit of a hit and miss so far. My main problem has been the Z offset. It keeps changing between prints. The first print turns out okay and then when I print the same thing again it just breaks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I followed the steps for method one from&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/IZpbuiFTQ7c?start=0&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;to level the X axis gantry which made things much better. For a while. But just recently a print failed after about half an hour. It seemed like the printer got the Z-offset wrong because the layers just wouldn't stick any more. I aborted the print and did a height map calibration:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/a8TBD.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/a8TBD.png&quot; alt=&quot;Height map calibration&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;And this how it went. The printer also made some stuttering sounds when probing the plate at the far right.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm using Klipper with MainsailOS instead of the stock firmware. I have updated everything to the latest available version.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems like I need to make some adjustments, but I'm not sure what to do. Should I try to adjust the X-gantry again? I have levelled the bed and the four corners are pretty much level. I'm also using &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.printables.com/model/251587-stress-free-first-layer-calibration-in-less-than-5&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this model&lt;/a&gt; to get a good enough first layer. And that works, but only for one print. Then I have to redo the Z-offset calibration as well as perform the height map calibration. I don't think I should have to do that every time? The printer is placed in a stable location and I'm not moving it between prints. I also clean the bed with IPA before each print. And I have a PEI plate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I'm wondering what I should try to to adjust/tweak/calibrate to get the printer to work reliably?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="38034" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2023-04-19T16:47:24.317" LastActivityDate="2023-12-17T20:03:25.377" Title="Ender 3 S1 Pro – Z offset keeps changing" Tags="|creality-ender-3|z-axis|klipper|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20846" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-04-19T22:59:23.030" Score="1" ViewCount="232" Body="&lt;p&gt;I got a brand new Anycubic Photon Mono 4k about a week ago. Printer is new, FEP is clean, it was a fresh load of Anycubic Standard+ resin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I got a couple of good prints, including perfect Cones of Calibration, miniatures etc, just things you print in your first week (I had Photon S before). This time I tried to print big, but flat and hollowed out model. Think vault door from Fallout. It was too big to print flat, so I tried standard 45°, heavy support, 90% automatic support density and then some when I felt like. About 5% in the print I noticed something weird, cancelled print, and that's how it looked like.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It delaminated in the middle of the raft. I &lt;em&gt;guess&lt;/em&gt; it was just after bottom layers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, what could be the cause, and how can I prevent it from happening again?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course it's only now it is on the drip hanger, I printed it normally. I printed similar models on Anycubic Photon S previously and it usually worked, so whatever error I made here, it's something that probably didn't matter on older machine?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had delamination previously, but never in the raft.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My exposure was tested, seems perfect, and other delamination advice seems not applicable for delamination inside the raft.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kc1sj.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kc1sj.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Photo 1&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kqdsK.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kqdsK.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Photo 2&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20803" LastActivityDate="2023-05-21T04:15:37.807" Title="What could cause delamination in the raft?" Tags="|delamination|anycubic-photon|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20847" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20850" CreationDate="2023-04-20T08:37:48.857" Score="2" ViewCount="162" Body="&lt;p&gt;After encountering an issue where the original heater cartridge (~40 W) for my generic MK6 hotend was unable to reach/maintain stable temperature at ~260 °C (for PETG) I replaced it with a higher wattage heater (60 W). The new heater heats up faster and can maintain temperature, but I noticed that if I try to print too fast it will become unstable and the printer stops with a heater error, even with a lower temperature of 250 °C. This can be seen in the temperature plot below.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have performed PID tuning (see the nicely flat spots on the temperature plot), so I don't think that's the issue. The thermistor is well-secured to the block.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am using a BTT SKR Pico V1.0 control board with Klipper over UART to a Raspberry Pi A3.&#xA;Does anyone have experience with an issue like this? Could it be that the SKR Pico is not supplying sufficient power while also running the motors and heated bed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/R97dd.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/R97dd.png&quot; alt=&quot;HeaterFailure&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="34495" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2023-04-20T11:59:13.660" LastActivityDate="2023-04-24T13:41:46.640" Title="Print failure due to heater inconsistency" Tags="|troubleshooting|hotend|temperature|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20848" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-04-20T12:57:21.160" Score="0" ViewCount="36" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had an odd failure case today. I've been trying to print a successful model with my newly installed MMU2S on a MK3S+ - specifically this one which seems to be a popular first print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.printables.com/model/2364-sheep-multi-material&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.printables.com/model/2364-sheep-multi-material&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Before printing I've re-calibrated the Z axis, did a first layer + belt tests. The printer (when it gets material to the nozzle at the right rate) is printing as well as it ever did. I re-checked and cleaned all the bondtech gears in the MMU2 with a pin, the idler screws are fairly loose as I had a lot of grinding initially. Both filaments load correctly, at least via the printer menu. I've also checked the filament IR sensor and the FINDA, and they seem fine. I'm using fresh filament as I found old PLA was too brittle and would often snap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've had two main issues during the print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Using the gcode supplied, at the first filament swap the print fails. The nozzle pauses over the purge block, there's a lot of back/forth with the MMU and eventually it just dumps a huge blob of filament in-place. It's not clear what's causing this aside from the obvious - the extruder is activated and the nozzle isn't moving. I've tried this twice with the same failure and I've also seen it happen on print start, before the purge line begins.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Using my own gcode from Prusa Slicer from the 3mf, the print got probably halfway. Plenty of filament swaps, so I thought we were onto a winner. However, at some point either an unload or a load failed and rather than halting the print, it just continued... The error message that the MMU2 filament load failed was actually displayed on the LCD while the printer was going. At least part of the problem was that the nozzle was cold (I don't know why it cooled at all, unless it was an E-stop because the load wasn't fixed in time). Not sure if this was an issue with Octoprint still sending commands or something else, but I would expect the printer to refuse gcode until the error on the MMU is cleared. I'll try again direct from the SD card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any common problems which would cause either of these? Given the successful reviews, I would expect the GCode to work out of the box (indeed the first bit of the model is fine). I re-checked the IR sensor and it reliably triggers with an the 2.5mm hex key. It's pretty stiff forcing the gears apart, but it's the same in Prusa's debugging video.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even more odd is that during the second print, I was using an old spool which snapped quite early on. I was able to swap in a fresh spool, and the mid-print reload worked without any real problems. So the system clearly can respond and recover from an error state, but maybe I hit some other bug.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am using a piece of Capricorn tubing to replace the MMU2 -&amp;gt; Extruder section, but I used the provided one as a reference so I don't think that should be an issue (also if the printer is using the sensors to detect extrusion length then it shouldn't matter anyway). Also when I generated the gcode myself, most of the swaps completed fine. Also given how long the print got, it seems like drag isn't likely to be an issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1480" LastActivityDate="2023-04-20T12:57:21.160" Title="MMU2S continued print after filament swap faillure" Tags="|prusa-i3|print-failure|prusa-mmu|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20850" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20847" CreationDate="2023-04-20T17:31:45.623" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is very similar to what I recently experienced in the question &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/20823/diagnosing-sudden-problem-with-hotend-temperature&quot;&gt;Diagnosing sudden problem with hotend temperature&lt;/a&gt;, where the root cause seems to have been a bad thermistor - internal conductors probably broken in a way that they intermittently make reduced contact during toolhead motion. But I didn't have a problem while heating like your graph shows, only during motion, so it's also plausible that the wiring to the heater is bad. Since these aren't expensive components it might make sense to just replace the thermistor, heater cartridge, and any asssociated wiring if you don't want to spend time fighting with the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2023-04-20T17:31:45.623" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20851" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20855" CreationDate="2023-04-20T19:38:59.363" Score="1" ViewCount="84" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got a 12 V bed (MK2A) and a 24 V PSU (Meanwell 350). I've also got a 12-24 V Einsy Rambo controller, and I'd like to run my hotend at 24 V. My HEVO is still in development, so when I tested the bed, anything over 32 °C restarted the board (I forgot it was 12 V).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Must be a voltage drop from the bed draw? The Einsy has a dedicated rail for the bed, so I was thinking I could use a dropdown converter between the PSU and the board rail. So I could continue to run the 24 V PSU for everything else and 12 V for the bed. Is it a bad idea from a safety perspective to run a simple 24 V-&amp;gt;12 V converter in line there?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, what would that do to my amperage, I read something about converting volts down causing high amps and wattages requirements. Is that true?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;UPDATE:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wanted to check if changing the bed config in Marlin would allow me to reduce the voltage and it appears that if I change MAX_BED_POWER to 127 (half) I can indeed run the bed as is.  I can bring it up to 70 degrees at least at the moment. Admittedly I'm not sure what this does exactly and if this is safe.  Thoughts?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This thread appears to discuss exactly my problem and my temporary solution with MAX_BED_POWER limit too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?4,252638&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?4,252638&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?4,851922&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Here's a similar discussion&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="809" LastEditorUserId="809" LastEditDate="2023-04-23T16:31:46.667" LastActivityDate="2023-04-23T16:31:46.667" Title="Is it a bad idea to run 24 V to 12 V step down to heated bed?" Tags="|heated-bed|power-supply|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20852" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20846" CreationDate="2023-04-20T23:56:36.930" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure what exactly &lt;em&gt;was&lt;/em&gt; the problem, but setting &lt;strong&gt;Transition Layers Count&lt;/strong&gt; to &lt;strong&gt;8&lt;/strong&gt; apparently solved it. I have no more fails since I did that, and one failure when I tried printing without them, for experimental purposes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would love to see an explanation of the mechanisms of this error, for now I share what worked for me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20803" LastActivityDate="2023-04-20T23:56:36.930" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20853" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20824" CreationDate="2023-04-21T00:25:57.623" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Side with supports will always be deformed, at least a bit. Resin printer prints upside down. It pulls on the supports to lift the print from the FEP. But when you print a big flat surface, first layer is only barely cured, and very thin. It acts more like a tablecloth than a plywood. Supports at this stage are also very soft. Imagine you are trying to lift a tablecloth from a table, using only attached strings. How many strings do you need, to be sure tablecloth will not deform? The answer is, it can't be done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So how to get a flat surface? There are couple of ways.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Print it directly on the bed. Bottom layers exposure must be dialed in just right for print not to fail, but be easy to remove when it's done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Put side you want to be pretty at the bottom of the print, facing FEP. It'll be shown to be on top on the slicer, because printer works upside down. If ugly side is never to be seen, you don't have to sand it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Tilt your print 45°. That way you will not need supports on the surface, as now it's printed in many narrow stripes, one built on another, and not as a couple of tablecloths. You would still need some on the edges, especially bottom one for load bearing and on others for support, but significantly less than printing flat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What method do I use? &lt;strong&gt;All of them&lt;/strong&gt;. I try to design my boxes with a small 45° bevel on the bottom. That way, when I tilt them 45° (point 3) with most important side away from the platform (point 2) I have a flat surface I can put directly on the platform. One that will hardly be seen, so little elephant foot won't bother me that much. Or, more recently, I use a filament printer, boxes are easier to print on them, in my personal experience.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20803" LastEditorUserId="20803" LastEditDate="2023-04-21T07:30:56.667" LastActivityDate="2023-04-21T07:30:56.667" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20854" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-04-21T12:49:44.767" Score="1" ViewCount="64" Body="&lt;p&gt;I tuned my print settings pretty good. Prints no longer fail, details are as good as it gets, all nice and dandy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Problem is, I did it on my laptop. And it lacks both RAM and brute CPU force for big, detailed models. I don't want to go over it all by hand because, knowing my luck, I would miss something. So, how can I transfer ALL setting? Support contact sizes, resin profiles, all that? And better yet, how can I keep them in sync?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20803" LastEditorUserId="20803" LastEditDate="2023-04-21T15:25:04.030" LastActivityDate="2023-04-21T15:25:04.030" Title="How to sync settings of Chitubox between computers?" Tags="|chitubox|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20855" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20851" CreationDate="2023-04-21T14:42:28.160" Score="1" Body="&lt;h1&gt;It will come with issues&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Efficiency of good step down converters is 90%. Cheap ones used to start at 70%. What that means is:&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Additional strain on your PSU and control board.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;More heat to dissipate, that'll go to waste unless you have a closed chamber and print in things that requires high temperatures.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Higher electricity bill than it needs to be.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Additional point of failure:&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You will spend more time building and debugging your device.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Higher risk of failed prints in the future.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;More difficult repairs.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lower voltage means thicker or hotter cables.&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hotter is wasteful and can be dangerous.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Stiffer is bad for bedslinger designs.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is your choice if you are OK with these drawbacks. I would not, but none of these screams &lt;em&gt;&amp;quot;don't do it!&amp;quot;&lt;/em&gt;. It's quite probable that you will be able to pull it off and make a decent printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20803" LastActivityDate="2023-04-21T14:42:28.160" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20856" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-04-21T22:19:24.217" Score="0" ViewCount="161" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been dealing with 3D printing for a few weeks now. I'm trying to figure what is wrong with my print sliced in PrusaSlicer. Here's how the filleted bottom of my cube should look like:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5lCHR.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5lCHR.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, this is how it turns out, sliced with PrusaSlicer:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XWXNt.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XWXNt.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and here's how Cura does it, not a perfection but much closer to the required:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hwZ1Y.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hwZ1Y.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm printing on an Ender3 S1 Pro with Klipper, 0.4@nbsp;mm, pressure advance and input shaping calibrated. Both slicers are roughly the same settings: 0.2@nbsp;mm, 130@nbsp;mm/s inner perimeters, 100@nbsp;mm/s outer ones. I want to be using PrusaSlicer for it has some special features compared to Cura.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The same cube without a fillet, turns out absolute perfection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37944" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2023-05-15T12:37:45.840" LastActivityDate="2023-05-15T12:37:45.840" Title="Help needed with weird corner issue in prusa slicer" Tags="|print-quality|ultimaker-cura|prusaslicer|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20857" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-04-21T22:43:53.473" Score="0" ViewCount="5817" Body="&lt;p&gt;My Ender 3 is showing &lt;code&gt;SD Init Fail&lt;/code&gt; when the sd card is inserted. I tried rebooting, reformating the card etc. At first, I thought the card is damaged, so I bought a new card. Still the same. I can use the card with the computer without any problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, I tried to print from Cura 5.3.0. But the printer is not detected.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What could be the reason? Since the SD card is not detected, I can't even flash the firmware &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/O61G7.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/O61G7.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;SD Init Fail&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wniqc.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wniqc.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Printer Info&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37945" LastActivityDate="2024-03-11T14:13:09.120" Title="How to fix &quot;SD Init Fail&quot; on Ender 3" Tags="|creality-ender-3|microsd|sd|ender3|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20859" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20857" CreationDate="2023-04-22T01:49:20.020" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had a similar issue with an old Ender-2 from 2019.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my case, this happened because I was using fancy 32 GB, Class 10 or UHS 2 SD cards. It stopped happening when I started using a cheap 512 MB, no class visible card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Try at least using a card with lower capacity, like maximum 2 GB and see what happens.&#xA;You can also try using short names with no spaces for the G-code files, and leaving more free space on the SD card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the problem is still happening, then it might be a SW issue.&#xA;Obviously, you can't flash via SD if the card is not detected, but this is likely solvable by upgrading the Marlin version (the factory version may be really old!) or just flashing a clean build.&#xA;One way to flash the Firmware without the card could be by using an ISP or an ISP-USB cable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="38056" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2023-11-24T21:52:39.260" LastActivityDate="2023-11-24T21:52:39.260" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20860" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-04-22T17:52:12.023" Score="0" ViewCount="86" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been facing an issue with my 3d printer for the past couple of months: My inner layers are not sticking together when I print something vertically.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to print white PLA at 200ºC with the following Cura settings on an Ender 5 Pro:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yJ8nL.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yJ8nL.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's the result:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mmHBy.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mmHBy.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/C23NQ.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/C23NQ.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've tampered with my settings a bit, but still, it doesn't seem to make any difference.&#xA;I'm pretty convinced it's a setting issue... Any idea?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="38063" LastEditorUserId="38063" LastEditDate="2023-04-22T18:17:37.533" LastActivityDate="2024-02-06T18:00:35.077" Title="Inner layers separating specially on the top" Tags="|creality-ender-3|creality-ender-5|delamination|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20861" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20440" CreationDate="2023-04-22T22:33:25.767" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not sure if its a solution to your problem but I had a similar problem and this worked for me:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;My Problem&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I could auto-home and configure my Z-offset as many times as I want but it behaved strangely. It just added the values on top and the offset did not apply whatever I did.&#xA;I did auto home, drive to Z -3, set my Z-offset to -3, did auto home, and was again 3 millimeters too high.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;How did I get there&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I compiled Marlin 2.1.2 with the configuration for the Creality Ender 5 Pro and enabled &lt;code&gt;ENDER5_USE_BLTOUCH&lt;/code&gt;.&#xA;I did some adjustments to &lt;code&gt;NOZZLE_TO_PROBE_OFFSET&lt;/code&gt; (where the 3rd parameter, the Z option didn't do anything).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;My Solution&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I commented out (put &lt;code&gt;//&lt;/code&gt; before these lines) &lt;code&gt;Z_HOMING_HEIGHT&lt;/code&gt; and &lt;code&gt;Z_AFTER_HOMING&lt;/code&gt; which were commented in by the author of the Ender 5 Pro configuration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Why I did that&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I realised that every time the auto-home ran, it moved to Z 10. Ignoring my offset. This could be a bug, could be intentional behaviour but after commenting those lines it always moves 10+Z-offset down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;My guess as to why this happened&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My assumption is that it &lt;strong&gt;always&lt;/strong&gt; moved 10 mm but those lines made Marlin believe it moved also respecting the offset.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="38060" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2023-04-22T23:42:38.690" LastActivityDate="2023-04-22T23:42:38.690" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20863" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-04-24T00:59:31.103" Score="3" ViewCount="1374" Body="&lt;p&gt;What kind of 3D printer (filament vs resin) and what kind of filament is recommended for individual LED diffusing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The issue is that I am using a WS2812B-2020 LEDs (2mm x 2mm) so the size of my prints are quite tiny.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am looking for a semi-opaque/frosted finish like on an LED strip diffuser.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For reference, I found a Youtube video which uses a regular filament printer with 0% infill, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PfRFWxaPOLY&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;LED Mood Lamp&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/PfRFWxaPOLY?start=0&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="38081" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2023-05-14T07:47:34.320" LastActivityDate="2023-05-14T07:50:50.317" Title="Creating 3D printed individual LED diffuse covers" Tags="|filament|resin|print-material|filament-choice|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20865" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20863" CreationDate="2023-04-24T09:36:26.887" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you want &lt;em&gt;just&lt;/em&gt; covers - thin surfaces - then the printer choice doesn't matter. FDM with textured bed will give you neatly textured surface on the first layer (so if you print them upside-down, which would be the intuitive observation, that will be the outer surface), but in either case you can achieve the matte finish with some sandpaper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, you don't even need transparent filament, just make the &amp;quot;diffuser surface&amp;quot; 1-2 layers thick and LEDs will shine through just fine, through any not-too-dark filament, if a little dim. You can even integrate the pockets in the chassis, printing everything in one go, most of chassis thick, &amp;quot;LED windows&amp;quot; 1-2 layers thin, no multiple materials, no multiple parts needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The case is different if you want fibre optic guides for the lights - LEDs located a good distance from where the glow is expected to appear. That requires high internal transparency and smooth surface to guide the reflections. In that case resin is vastly superior, allowing for truly transparent prints - FDM will create a bunch of imperfections at layer interface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;OTOH there is a technique - print just the small diffuser, then use heat to weld a piece of the transparent filament to the back side of it, bend the filament to shape (using heat) to fit the LED-diffuser path, then polish the end surface (where it takes the LED light in) to smooth finish. Unprocessed filament like that acts as decent optic fibres.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2206" LastActivityDate="2023-04-24T09:36:26.887" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20866" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20844" CreationDate="2023-04-24T09:56:44.147" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Experienced users of the printers just know it by feel, but for newbies there are apps for Android, like:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=jp.gr.java_conf.kotokotobokan.onpa3&amp;amp;hl=en_US&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Belt tension meter&lt;/a&gt; (Newtons)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=air.com.hutchinsontransmission.tensiometre&amp;amp;hl=en&amp;amp;gl=US&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Easy Tension&lt;/a&gt; (lbf)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are probably iPhone apps like that, I don't know them personally.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You measure and enter dimensions of your belt mechanism (as instructed by the app), then &amp;quot;strum&amp;quot; the belt (like a guitar string) within reach of your phone's microphone, and the app converts the frequency to force in Newtons or Pounds Force.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &amp;quot;best&amp;quot; tension varies from printer to printer, but generally falls between 15N and 25N (~3.5 - 6 lbf); if you don't know what is &lt;em&gt;best&lt;/em&gt; on your printer, going with 20N/4.5lbf is a safe bet that will produce &lt;em&gt;reasonable&lt;/em&gt; results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2206" LastActivityDate="2023-04-24T09:56:44.147" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20867" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-04-24T12:19:06.650" Score="0" ViewCount="65" Body="&lt;p&gt;for my graduation project I have to compare cells in a 3D- Model to one another in regard of their volume, side faces and the corresponding forms and their numbers.&#xA;First, I have about 300 Tif-Files of microscopic planes of cells (black and white) that I want to create a 3D-Model orientating on the cell membranes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second, I need a code or program that can differentiate the cell membrane (white to grey in TIF) from the cytoplasm (black in TIF), kind of trace it and then analyze the volumina of each cell and side faces in regard to their forms (what types of polygons they resemble) and the number of each form in the whole 3D-Stack (not bound to the cells where they occur, just a numeric listing).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can you recommend a program for these problems? Or for the individual programms?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am unfortunately not very knowledgeable in this field and would greatly appreciate your advice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="38083" LastActivityDate="2023-04-28T06:28:26.630" Title="Create a 3D-Model out of a 2D-Stack of microscopic planes and analyze it according to volume, side faces and number?" Tags="|3d-models|3d-design|software|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2023-05-04T12:39:30.657" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20868" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3302" CreationDate="2023-04-24T13:01:54.050" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recommend &lt;a href=&quot;https://ultimaker.com/learn/ultimaker-cura-4-3-available-now&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Ultimaker Cura 4.3&lt;/a&gt; for dimensioning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can access it here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Sui5j.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Screenshot of Cura&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Sui5j.png&quot; alt=&quot;Screenshot of Cura&quot; title=&quot;Screenshot of Cura&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As can be seen, detailed measurements can be made over the specified coordinates.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CNQ8X.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Screenshot of Print Size Wizard&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CNQ8X.png&quot; alt=&quot;Screenshot of Print Size Wizard&quot; title=&quot;Screenshot of Print Size Wizard&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, you can make an accurate dimensioning by using the Render program. I recommend doing this before working on the STL file.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wish you good work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="38084" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2023-04-24T15:06:25.557" LastActivityDate="2023-04-24T15:06:25.557" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20872" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20867" CreationDate="2023-04-24T17:08:12.610" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In 3D printing, the opposite is usually the desired project, that is, to take a solid and slice it into layers. Many options abound in that respect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For your objective, one might arbitrarily assign a thickness to each layer in order to provide for the third dimension and cluster each layer appropriately.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One can possibly use a program known as &lt;a href=&quot;https://openscad.org/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;OpenSCAD&lt;/a&gt;, free multi-platform. The code that comes to mind is to import the bitmap (which will have to be converted to SVG) and use linear_extrude() to create a thickness. Each image will then be translated in the z-axis to stack them with a minimal overlap to ensure manifold status (required for 3D models). The overlap can be as small as 0.0625 to minimize the overall effect, which can match the extrusion thickness as appropriate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;OpenSCAD uses implicit union to form the complete model, creating a result of one cell structure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I see complications in that your TIFF file is grey scale and the process I describe is two-bit, black and white. If you can convert the bitmap to SVG and filter out by a threshold value, it may work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;OpenSCAD supports scripting but I think the key factor will be greyscale to two-bit and whether you can separate the images you have in a manner suitable for your objective.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To that end, consider to post in the &lt;a href=&quot;https://graphicdesign.stackexchange.com/&quot;&gt;graphic design SE&lt;/a&gt; for a suitable program and/or method to solve the bitmap problem. Alignment of each layer is going to be based on the position in the original bitmap and the subsequent SVG file creation. If they are not properly aligned, some manual adjustment may be required.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastEditorUserId="854" LastEditDate="2023-04-24T17:16:12.670" LastActivityDate="2023-04-24T17:16:12.670" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20875" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-04-25T18:37:15.890" Score="0" ViewCount="736" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is my vague understanding that the following macro somehow controls acceleration and accel to decel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;How do I set the speed I want for say, acceleration in this macro?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If acceleration is set in this macro and also set in a slicer like Cura, which value will end up being implemented?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would greatly appreciate it if someone were to walk me through whats happening in the macro conditional. I have experience with php bot nil with Python.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;[gcode_macro M204]&#xA;rename_existing: M204.1&#xA;gcode:&#xA;  {% set f = params.F|default(0.5)|float %}&#xA;&#xA;  {% if 'S' in params %}&#xA;    {% set s = params.S|float %}&#xA;    SET_VELOCITY_LIMIT ACCEL={s} ACCEL_TO_DECEL={ s * f }&#xA;  {% else %}&#xA;    {% if 'P' in params %}&#xA;  {% set p = params.P|float %}&#xA;  {% if 'T' in params %}&#xA;    {% set t = params.T|float %}&#xA;    {% if p &amp;lt; t %}&#xA;      SET_VELOCITY_LIMIT ACCEL={p} ACCEL_TO_DECEL={ p * f }&#xA;    {% else %}&#xA;      SET_VELOCITY_LIMIT ACCEL={t} ACCEL_TO_DECEL={ t * f }&#xA;    {% endif %}&#xA;  {% else %}&#xA;    SET_VELOCITY_LIMIT ACCEL={p} ACCEL_TO_DECEL={ p * f }&#xA;  {% endif %}&#xA;{% elif 'T' in params %}&#xA;  {% set t = params.T|float %}&#xA;  SET_VELOCITY_LIMIT ACCEL={t} ACCEL_TO_DECEL={ t * f }&#xA;{% endif %}&#xA;{% endif %}&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36794" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2023-04-26T06:02:40.040" LastActivityDate="2024-01-22T15:07:56.027" Title="Klipper M204 macro query" Tags="|klipper|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20876" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20878" CreationDate="2023-04-26T02:02:14.913" Score="1" ViewCount="974" Body="&lt;p&gt;My CoreXY style printer doesn't have perfect belt alignment with its pullies, so there is some occasional squeaking on at least one pulley where the belt rubs against a flange. Since I don't have an easy way of adjusting the pulleys (maybe some &lt;em&gt;tiny&lt;/em&gt; shim washers) I was hoping to just apply some oil to minimize the wear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could I just throw some 3-in-1 oil on the belt? Is there a better lubricant to use? I doubt that the belt would start skipping, but I am worried about damaging the belt due to some chemical incompatibility with the oil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The belt is the most generic GT2-style timing belt you would find on a 3D printer, probably the same as this &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B00YMM6IQW&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;HICTOP 3D Printer Belt&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="34495" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2023-04-26T02:15:58.630" LastActivityDate="2023-04-26T08:13:31.787" Title="Can I lubricate the timing belts to prevent squeaking against pulleys?" Tags="|maintenance|linear-motion|belt|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20878" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20876" CreationDate="2023-04-26T08:13:31.787" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The pulleys on nearly every 3D printer I've seen are held in place on the stepper motor shaft with a grub screw. A bit of rotation of the pulley should bring into view this screw, which will use a fairly small hex wrench. Loosen the screw and slide the pulley in the direction appropriate to relieve the friction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3ucqC.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3ucqC.png&quot; alt=&quot;pulley with grub screw&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;photo courtesy random selection from &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.pinterest.com/pin/848717492249343197/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;pinterest&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are unable to access the screws and choose to lubricate the belt, consider to use a non-reactive PTFE (teflon) type or silicone type substance and apply it sparingly to the belt edges. If the teeth of the belt and pulley receive the substance, you may not be able to avoid belt jumps under high acceleration movement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastActivityDate="2023-04-26T08:13:31.787" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20880" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-04-27T09:01:18.177" Score="1" ViewCount="177" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Creality Ender 3 S1 Pro with the factory board and firmware. Is there any option to increase the number of leveling points? Since it is not an open Marlin code, I have no access to the firmware source to modify it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="38120" LastEditorUserId="38084" LastEditDate="2023-05-15T12:33:13.593" LastActivityDate="2023-05-16T08:06:54.567" Title="Increase the measuring points on Ender 3 S1 Pro" Tags="|creality-ender-3|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20881" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20875" CreationDate="2023-04-27T14:02:53.860" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;code&gt;M204&lt;/code&gt; command is how gcode sets the acceleration for moves that follow (up until the next &lt;code&gt;M204&lt;/code&gt; command changes it). This command appears in gcode generated by a slicer with &amp;quot;acceleration control&amp;quot; enabled. You can also write it manually in your start gcode (not very useful unless acceleration control is off, since the first slicer-emitted &lt;code&gt;M204&lt;/code&gt; will override it, but may be useful for priming line, etc.) or send it manually over a terminal session/via Octoprint terminal/etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The macro you're looking at overrides the &lt;code&gt;M204&lt;/code&gt; command and replaces it with one that does several things:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Does an over-complicated staircase of if/else clauses to accept the Marlin &lt;code&gt;P&lt;/code&gt; and &lt;code&gt;T&lt;/code&gt; parameters to the &lt;code&gt;M204&lt;/code&gt; command for separate print and travel accelerations, but then ignores them and just uses the min of the two.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Accepts a new &lt;code&gt;F&lt;/code&gt; parameter (likely meaning factor) and sets Klipper's &amp;quot;accel to decel&amp;quot; setting to this factor times the requested acceleration. This allows &amp;quot;accel to decel&amp;quot; to be kept consistently to whatever the desired percentage of the acceleration limit is, even under changes in acceleration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Aside from the if/else staircase being a mess, this macro fails to save the factor passed by &lt;code&gt;F&lt;/code&gt;, so unless the slicer knows to emit &lt;code&gt;F&lt;/code&gt; each time it emits an &lt;code&gt;M204&lt;/code&gt; command, it's always going to be resetting the factor to &lt;code&gt;0.5&lt;/code&gt; (the default above) each time acceleration changes. Klipper allows definition of persistent variables for gcode macros; this is probably what the author intended to do but didn't know how to do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Overall, the above looks not-very-useful. &amp;quot;Accel to decel&amp;quot; is a questionable feature to begin with, and with input shaper, it arguably just makes your prints a lot slower with no benefit. The modern recommendation of most folks is that you just set &lt;code&gt;max_accel_to_decel&lt;/code&gt; to 999999999 in your configuration to turn it off, rather than going through hoops to change it dynamically like this, as long as you have turned on input shaping.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In any case, the presence of this macro in no ways interferes with acceleration control by the slicer, and you don't have to &amp;quot;use&amp;quot; this macro at all. It's purpose is not for you to &amp;quot;use&amp;quot; it but for it to hook the &lt;code&gt;M204&lt;/code&gt; commands the slicer emitted and make them do something extra.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2023-04-27T14:02:53.860" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20882" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20529" CreationDate="2023-04-27T14:13:40.250" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Did you check the voltage setting on the back of the unit?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a semi-hidden switch that can be flipped to go from 230 volts to 115 volts. If you are in the US, you want to print on 115 volts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="38125" LastActivityDate="2023-04-27T14:13:40.250" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20884" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20867" CreationDate="2023-04-28T06:28:26.630" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your problem can be solved by the &amp;quot;Marching cubes&amp;quot; algorithm and is more appropriately placed in a 3D modeling stack exchange.&#xA;Here is an answer to a similar question about constructing 3D models from CT-scans: &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/2736/conversion-of-dicom-files-to-stl-files/2739#2739&quot;&gt;Conversion of DICOM files to STL files&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4708" LastActivityDate="2023-04-28T06:28:26.630" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20885" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-04-29T22:22:35.540" Score="0" ViewCount="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;I made a model in FreeCAD that uses a macro that I wish to distribute (with the original file, not just the STL.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A couple of closely related questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If I provide only the .FCStd file, will people without that macro installed still be able to use and modify it?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If not, is there a good way to provide this model to include all its dependencies, or am I limited to advising what macro is required?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6331" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2023-04-29T23:10:13.643" LastActivityDate="2023-04-29T23:10:13.643" Title="How best to distribute a file made with FreeCAD that uses a macro" Tags="|file-formats|freecad|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20886" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12188" CreationDate="2023-04-29T23:08:28.367" Score="1" Body="&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;    import os&#xA;    &#xA;    for filename in os.listdir():&#xA;        if filename.endswith(&amp;quot;.gcode&amp;quot;):&#xA;            with open(filename, &amp;quot;r&amp;quot;) as file:&#xA;                lines = file.readlines()&#xA;            for i in range(len(lines)):&#xA;                if &amp;quot;M140 S&amp;quot; in lines[i]:&#xA;                    lines[i] = &amp;quot;M140 S50\n&amp;quot;&#xA;                elif &amp;quot;M104 S&amp;quot; in lines[i]:&#xA;                    lines[i] = &amp;quot;M190 S50\n&amp;quot;&#xA;                elif &amp;quot;M190 S&amp;quot; in lines[i]:&#xA;                    lines[i] = &amp;quot;M104 S185\n&amp;quot;&#xA;                elif &amp;quot;M109 S&amp;quot; in lines[i]:&#xA;                    lines[i] = &amp;quot;M109 S185\n&amp;quot;&#xA;            lines = [line for line in lines if &amp;quot;M105&amp;quot; not in line] # remove first two M105 lines&#xA;            with open(filename, &amp;quot;w&amp;quot;) as file:&#xA;                file.writelines(lines)&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wrote the above Python script to edit my G-codes in bulk for a plane I'm creating. This makes both extruder and bed heat up at the same time. It changes the places the code comes up in the order that @0scar listed above. And removes the grab temp &lt;code&gt;M105&lt;/code&gt; lines. This makes my prints start at least a few minutes faster which is nice when you have many to do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Install python3 in Windows or Linux,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Create a file called &lt;code&gt;something.py&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Paste the code above and save&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Move the script to the same folder of G-code&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Open cmd or PowerShell or Linux terminal and type &lt;code&gt;python3 something.py&lt;/code&gt;&#xA;or &lt;code&gt;python3 ./something.py&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It will update all G-codes to heat simultaneously. For modifying yourself edit the temps I have &lt;code&gt;S50&lt;/code&gt; for the bed and &lt;code&gt;S185&lt;/code&gt; for the extruder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="38148" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2023-04-30T03:50:44.647" LastActivityDate="2023-04-30T03:50:44.647" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20887" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-04-30T04:32:29.803" Score="0" ViewCount="48" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Ender 3 S1 Pro, and I'm using PrusaSlicer to slice because it has some features I need that Cura doesn't have yet. The problem I'm running into is that when it goes round a bend it will over extrude once in a while. Straight line walls, it does great, but a radius sometimes messes up. Is there a setting I need to adjust for this? Here is a picture of what I mean. It does it a dozen or so times throughout the print. I print standing up like that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WxUu9.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WxUu9.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Over Extrusion&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5579" LastActivityDate="2023-04-30T04:32:29.803" Title="Over Extrusion Around Radius" Tags="|extrusion|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20888" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20889" CreationDate="2023-04-30T16:37:30.113" Score="1" ViewCount="155" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have recently acquired a 'CraftBot XL' 3D printer (sold by CraftUnique), which is a CoreXY 3D printer with linear rails. It is a second-hand purchase and the seller were a company that had several. This particular unit has an issue where sometimes during X-axis movement, the Y-axis would move as well. They replaced the stepper motors, but the problem persisted so they opted to sell the machine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have found a possible cause of this issue. When I tried to move the carriage around manually, I noticed a particular heavy resistance / &amp;quot;drag&amp;quot; on approx. 1/3rd to 1/2 of the X-axis motion, toward the left extent of the build space. The remainder of the X axis and the Y and Z-axes are completely free to move as they ought to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The force required to move the carriage in the problematic part of the X-axis is (subjectively) quite large. Much much larger than any other movement. I believe that during some combined XY-manouevers (diagonal movement), this force is too large, causing the carriage to only move in the Y-axis, resulting in errant behavior (at best: layer shift, at worst: carriage getting stuck and the printer needing to be reset). The behavior arises during homing often, as the home position is in the problematic area. An additional reason that I think the X-axis force is too large is that, when this problem occurs and I ever so slightly help the carriage along the X-axis with my hand, the movement can complete without issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Steps I have undertaken to no avail yet:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Re-tension belts, make sure they are of roughly equal tension all around&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lubricate all axes with PTFE dry lube spray&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Disconnect belts to see if they are causing the issue (they aren't, with belts completely disconnected the problem is unchanged)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a diagram of the setup:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9QiUF.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9QiUF.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;CraftBot XL layout&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What else could be causing this? I don't hear any out of place noises like metal grinding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The next thing I want to check is the squareness of the gantry. I think I know how to measure it, but I'm not sure how to adjust it if it's off. Any help there?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36362" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2023-04-30T22:24:37.277" LastActivityDate="2023-05-01T12:05:05.630" Title="CraftBot XL (CoreXY) part of x-axis movement resistance / high force required" Tags="|linear-motion|belt|corexy|carriage|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20889" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20888" CreationDate="2023-05-01T12:05:05.630" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm going to answer this myself, as I believe I have found the issue. It was purely a mechanical issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On this particular model, the extruder motor rides just on top of / above the crossbar that the linear rail is mounted under. The extruder motor was mounted very close to this crossbar, there was barely any clearance between the two. I figure that due to a slight deviation in height or non-squaredness in the ZY-axis, the motor started to heavily rub on the bar toward the left extent of the X-axis. I tested with a piece of paper, which I slid between the motor and the bar. This immediately caused the same &amp;quot;resistance&amp;quot; I was feeling before, but now everywhere along the X-axis.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After re-mounting the extruder motor about 1 mm higher, which the frame already allowed for, there is no longer any improper resistance noticable along any axis:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GRuxN.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GRuxN.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Adequate clearance between motor and bar&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36362" LastActivityDate="2023-05-01T12:05:05.630" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20890" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20891" CreationDate="2023-05-01T18:56:20.907" Score="2" ViewCount="565" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can't seem to find wiring diagrams anywhere, so I am asking here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which pins do I use to connect my Arduino Uno to my Bigtreetech board?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am connecting the Arduino to use it as an ICSP programmer, so that you can flash the BigTreeTech board. I have a V3 board version.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="38166" LastEditorUserId="38166" LastEditDate="2023-05-02T14:07:35.357" LastActivityDate="2023-05-02T14:07:35.357" Title="How to connect Arduino Uno R3 to Bigtreetech SKR Mini E3 V3" Tags="|bigtreetech|wiring|arduino|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20891" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20890" CreationDate="2023-05-01T19:55:48.547" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;First, make sure that you have flashed your Uno to be an ICSP programmer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then you just connect up the SPI pins of the two boards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The pins on the Uno that you must use, are these, circled in yellow (you can ignore the red circles):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MTfzC.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;BigTreeTech board layout&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MTfzC.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Uno board layout&quot; title=&quot;BigTreeTech board layout&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The pin out is as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/etS4V.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Arduino Uno SPI pinout&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/etS4V.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Arduino Uno SPI pinout&quot; title=&quot;Arduino Uno SPI pinout&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The pins on the BigTreeTech board are shown on the right hand edge/side of the board, half way down, where it says &lt;strong&gt;SPI1&lt;/strong&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/os9G0.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;BigTreeTech board v1.2 layout&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/os9G0.png&quot; alt=&quot;BigTreeTech board v1.2 layout&quot; title=&quot;BigTreeTech board v1.2 layout&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The SPI pins on the v3 version of the board are still in a similar location, &lt;em&gt;but in a different order&lt;/em&gt; (along with 2 other pins, that can be ignored):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HRqze.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;BigTreeTech board v3 layout&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HRqze.png&quot; alt=&quot;BigTreeTech board v3 layout&quot; title=&quot;BigTreeTech board v3 layout&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Connect these pins on the Uno, to the &amp;quot;&lt;em&gt;like-for-like&lt;/em&gt;&amp;quot; pins on the BigTree - no crossing over of wires is required. So, connect:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;MOSI to MOSI&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;MISO to MISO&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;SCK to SCK&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;RESET to RESET&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;VCC to VCC&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;GND to GND&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the V3 board ignore the additional &lt;code&gt;NSS&lt;/code&gt; and &lt;code&gt;3.3V&lt;/code&gt; pins on the SPI1 connector&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;References&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/bigtreetech/BIGTREETECH-SKR-mini-E3/blob/master/hardware/BTT%20SKR%20MINI%20E3%20V1.2/BTT%20SKR%20MINI%20E3%20V1.2PIN.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;BigTreeTech Board layout v.1.2&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/bigtreetech/BIGTREETECH-SKR-mini-E3/blob/master/hardware/BTT%20SKR%20MINI%20E3%20V3.0/Hardware/BTT%20E3%20SKR%20MINI%20V3.0_PIN.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;BigTreeTech Board layout v.3&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://docs.arduino.cc/built-in-examples/arduino-isp/ArduinoISP&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Arduino as ISP and Arduino Bootloaders&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4762" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2023-05-01T21:11:05.907" LastActivityDate="2023-05-01T21:11:05.907" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20892" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-05-01T20:02:08.127" Score="2" ViewCount="140" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have built a big gantry (1 m x 1 m) and currently use TMC2208 drivers and Marlin on a RAMPS 1.4 board. When working at high speeds, this could get dangerous if someone gets their hand in the way or something. According to the Marlin documentation&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some TMC stepper drivers (e.g. TMC2209s) can detect when they bump into something that causes them to stop moving. This feature is so sensitive that it can actually take the place of traditional endstops.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I use this feature of TMC2209s to stop the print if it bumps into something as a kind of safety feature?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="38167" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2023-05-01T21:46:53.037" LastActivityDate="2023-05-01T21:46:53.037" Title="How to use TMC2209 driver to stop print when an obstruction is hit in Marlin" Tags="|marlin|stepper-driver|safety|tmc2209|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20893" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-05-02T10:09:35.903" Score="1" ViewCount="237" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was having problems where the nozzle was shaking on my Ender 3 V2 neo, so I tightened the screws holding to where the nozzle was mounted (which were quite loose), but then when I tried to print something, I got the error: &amp;quot;Leveling data exception, please leveling it manually first before auto-leveling.&amp;quot; I leveled it manually, and I was still getting the error. I noticed that the firmware was outdated, so I tried updating that thinking it might fix the problem, but in trying to upgrade to V4.2.2 from V1.1.5 I only got to V1.1.6.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="38173" LastActivityDate="2023-05-02T10:09:35.903" Title="Levelling Data Exception on Ender 3 V2 Neo" Tags="|creality-ender-3|troubleshooting|firmware|creality|automatic-bed-leveling|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20894" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-05-02T14:20:21.800" Score="1" ViewCount="55" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Cubicon Single Plus printer, and the filament has balled up all around the nozzle and hot end. I was wondering if there is any easier way than butting it off carefully with a pair of side cutters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have heated up the block and nozzle to 230 degrees Celsius, but that may not help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="38176" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2023-05-03T03:43:23.247" LastActivityDate="2023-09-30T04:07:35.973" Title="How do I remove congealed, hardened filament from around the hot end from a Cubicon Single Plus" Tags="|filament|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2023-10-04T16:19:29.803" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20895" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20894" CreationDate="2023-05-02T15:00:49.003" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You just need the right tool for this, a brass brush, something like:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/17qWA.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/17qWA.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;brass brush sample&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They're typically available for less than a dollar from hardware stores, or you can order them various places online.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Use it while the nozzle is hot, and with the sock removed, and everything should come right off. Take care not to brush the electrical connections to the heater/thermistor, since this might cause a short and fry your controller board if any conductors are inadvertently exposed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2023-05-02T15:00:49.003" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20896" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-05-03T11:46:34.720" Score="2" ViewCount="220" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ever since I got this printer for my 15th birthday the cooling fan has made a grinding sound when the nozzle was near the wall. I thought it was just the clear wall vibrating but now when I start a print it makes the sound all the time and it's getting really annoying. How can I fix this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="38179" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2023-05-03T13:19:41.320" LastActivityDate="2023-05-20T06:21:07.567" Title="FlashForge Adventurer 3 cooling fan making grinding sound" Tags="|print-fan|flashforge-adventurer-3|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20897" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20898" CreationDate="2023-05-03T12:52:46.613" Score="2" ViewCount="749" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is kind of hard to explain but I have a 2 mm disc that has text on the top, it's a stamp effectively. I want my text to start right on the top after the top layer of the base (if that makes sense), but it's starting the text a few layers down into the top which is making the infill lines a right mess&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The text seems to start a few layers down in the top of the base, and it's causing it to look a mess as it's going around it all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZC5SL.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;3D rendering of a disc with outlines for 'Happy Fathers Day'; the word 'Day' is extruded upwards&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZC5SL.png&quot; alt=&quot;3D rendering of a disc with outlines for 'Happy Fathers Day'; the word 'Day' is extruded upwards&quot; title=&quot;3D rendering of a disc with outlines for 'Happy Fathers Day'; the word 'Day' is extruded upwards&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/raaiH.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Zoomed in screenshot of a slicer's preview showing the path of the filament being extruded&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/raaiH.png&quot; alt=&quot;Zoomed in screenshot of a slicer's preview showing the path of the filament being extruded&quot; title=&quot;Zoomed in screenshot of a slicer's preview showing the path of the filament being extruded&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="38182" LastEditorUserId="38182" LastEditDate="2023-05-03T15:28:24.417" LastActivityDate="2023-05-03T15:28:24.417" Title="I am pulling my hair out, why does my text start a few layers in to the top of my base?" Tags="|creality-ender-3|layer-height|print-failure|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20898" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20897" CreationDate="2023-05-03T14:22:49.967" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should have tagged this with the slicer you're using. Presumably that's Cura, and this is likely the &amp;quot;Skin Edge Support Thickness&amp;quot;/&amp;quot;Skin Edge Support Layers&amp;quot; feature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because you have some infill layers before the top layers, Cura is putting lines underneath the edges so they have something solid to build on. Otherwise you'd be likely to get top surface gaps or features on top that easily break off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While you can turn off the skin edge support, what I would do if you find it undesirable here is to increase the number of bottom layers slightly so that there are no infill layers in between. It looks like you only have 2 layers of infill, and having them there is just making problems; you'd do better to make the whole part print solid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2023-05-03T14:22:49.967" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20899" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20897" CreationDate="2023-05-03T14:26:17.340" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your problem has to do with the top layers of your part surrounding the raised text. The infill for your raised text continues a bit because it's not yet close to the top.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The print becomes a mess because the inner walls for the raised text don't hit any infill material like the top layers in this Benchy: &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ol2Zw.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ol2Zw.png&quot; alt=&quot;Example of top layer not hitting infill&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To remedy this, you can try several different things.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Connect Infill Lines. Assuming you use the Cura slicer, you can use the Connect Infill Lines option which is specifically designed to create extra support for top layers.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EJW0N.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EJW0N.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;If the option isn't visible yet you can find it in the additional Infill settings:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AWU82.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AWU82.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Increase infill density. You can increase the infill density ans check if the corners hit (or are very close to) the infill after slicing. In the example below, I raised the infill density from 10% to 25% and all corners are well supported by the infill. &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aSsYH.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aSsYH.png&quot; alt=&quot;increased infill density&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;This is often not the best solution because it will severely increase the print time and used material.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Change infill pattern. You can play around with different infill patterns to see if another pattern is more favourable for the unsupported walls. I changes the infill pattern to &lt;code&gt;Lines&lt;/code&gt; in this example and it supports the top layers a tiny bit better.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8gvJf.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8gvJf.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If all else fails, you can add another piece and set the &lt;a href=&quot;https://support.makerbot.com/s/article/1667411288884&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Per Model Settings&lt;/a&gt; for the overlapping regions. I added a simple cube and increased the infill density for the overlaps to 50% and got this result:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tQWlo.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tQWlo.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course there are al lot more things you can try but these are some options that have worked for me in the past. Hope it helps!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16860" LastEditorUserId="16860" LastEditDate="2023-05-03T14:32:44.037" LastActivityDate="2023-05-03T14:32:44.037" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20900" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-05-04T02:08:11.170" Score="-1" ViewCount="1183" Body="&lt;p&gt;I replaced the nozzle on my S1 Pro with a Tungsten nozzle, but the issue is that the nozzle is too high. I think the nozzle I bought is a tad shorter than the stock nozzles. The CR touch sensor touches the bed before the nozzle does. The bed is level, and the gantry isn't quite square (different issue I need to fix), but the left side is higher than the right so that should have helped me in this situation. Is it possible to lower the heat break to bring the nozzle down a millimeter or so?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5579" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2023-05-04T12:44:57.873" LastActivityDate="2023-11-20T12:32:34.563" Title="Ender 3 S1 Pro Nozzle too high" Tags="|creality-ender-3|nozzle|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20901" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20900" CreationDate="2023-05-04T13:02:26.970" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should first fix that the gantry is straight and level (not bubble level, but square with respect to X, Y and Z).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In order to adjust for a shorter nozzle when using a touch sensor you need to re-calibrate the Z-offset. See e.g. &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/16604/automatic-bed-leveling-abl-with-a-sensor-bltouch-inductive-capacitive-how&quot;&gt;Automatic Bed Leveling (ABL) with a sensor (BLTouch, inductive, capacitive), how does it work?&lt;/a&gt;. With a shorter nozzle, your offset will increase. You shouldn't lower the heatbreak, this may have adverse effects in feeding the filament into the heatbreak.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2023-05-04T13:02:26.970" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20902" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1334" CreationDate="2023-05-04T21:02:08.933" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I like to use &lt;a href=&quot;https://slic3r.org&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Slic3r&lt;/a&gt; for simplest slicing and rearranging operations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="38204" LastActivityDate="2023-05-04T21:02:08.933" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20903" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20776" CreationDate="2023-05-05T06:12:02.327" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;This question seems to be solved, this (community) answer is posted as a whole from &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/20776/thermal-runaway-without-error-on-power-on-ender-3-btt-octopus-v1-1-and-sprit#comment39508_20776&quot;&gt;comment&lt;/a&gt; until the OP adds a more detailed answer.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I swapped back in the original heating tube and it had the same issue. I was able to get it all working by using the second heating element port on the Octopus board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2023-05-05T06:12:02.327" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2023-05-05T06:12:02.327" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20904" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20905" CreationDate="2023-05-05T08:14:46.670" Score="-3" ViewCount="85" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can you suggest me some good material choices for printing some mountains models for educational and fun purposes?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My goal is to mantain the best accuracy without spending too much, I have many models to print: they don't need to be super-resistant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was thinking about High-Detail Resin or simple PLA / Recycled rPLA.&#xA;I also checked Rigid Resin and Color-Changing PLA.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are some examples of my models:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/79eOj.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/79eOj.png&quot; alt=&quot;mountain 1&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AciNE.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AciNE.png&quot; alt=&quot;mountain 2&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="38208" LastEditorUserId="38208" LastEditDate="2023-05-05T12:01:18.813" LastActivityDate="2023-05-05T13:19:13.763" Title="Best materials for printing mountains" Tags="|3d-models|print-material|dimensional-accuracy|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20905" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20904" CreationDate="2023-05-05T13:19:13.763" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Material is not really going to affect the accuracy unless you're using very exotic things like lightweight foaming materials where the expansion is variable. You don't even have overhangs. So accuracy is pretty much entirely a function of the process, the quality of your machine, and the settings you use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Resin will generally have higher resolution than FDM if that's what you're looking for. With FDM you can increase resolution somewhat by using a smaller nozzle, but that will make large prints like this very slow. Within the broad classes of resin or FDM, though, which specific resin or which specific polymer or color or brand you use is not going to make a difference. Pick the one that meets your aesthetic needs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2023-05-05T13:19:13.763" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20907" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-05-06T01:46:53.167" Score="1" ViewCount="99" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Sprite Pro extruder kit with the BTT SKR Mini E3 screen bundle. When I plug in the Sprite Pro, the entire board shuts off. What do I need to do? I have tried to switch the wires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="38214" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2023-05-06T03:45:27.537" LastActivityDate="2023-06-06T15:06:50.890" Title="Ender 3 loss of power" Tags="|creality-ender-3|extruder|bigtreetech|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20908" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-05-06T09:33:11.067" Score="2" ViewCount="84" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am currently trying to print an object, &amp;quot;model A&amp;quot;, together with another object, &amp;quot;model B&amp;quot;, that I want to use solely as a support structure. Regarding Ultimaker, I can set &amp;quot;model B&amp;quot; in &lt;strong&gt;Per model settings&lt;/strong&gt; to &lt;strong&gt;Print as support&lt;/strong&gt;; so far so good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I can't figure out how to adjust the settings for the support; which pattern, if it has a support interface, etc. Am I doing something wrong?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="35319" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2023-05-06T13:08:30.317" LastActivityDate="2023-05-15T21:32:57.897" Title="Set Model as Support - Support Settings?" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|support-structures|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20909" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-05-07T07:21:32.960" Score="0" ViewCount="97" Body="&lt;p&gt;It appears that some regions on my top layer has these weird patterns. It doesn't seem like over-extrusion because the extrusion lines go diagonally whereas these patterns look irregular and somehow &amp;quot;organic&amp;quot; to me. And, it only appears on some region.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/x0A50.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/x0A50.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Pattern&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am using EAUN PLA+ and the printer is Bambu Lab X1C. It has an enclosure. Filament seems quite dry, I have put them in storage box with silica for 3 days. Also I enabled top surface ironing, this might be the cause but I am not sure, as these artifacts only appear in this region.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any idea?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37871" LastActivityDate="2023-05-07T07:21:32.960" Title="Mysterious Top Layer Artifacts" Tags="|surface|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20910" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20907" CreationDate="2023-05-07T14:32:38.500" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds like there might be a short circuit occurring when you plug in the Sprite Pro extruder kit, causing the entire board to shut off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check the wiring: Ensure that the wiring connections between the extruder kit and the screen are correct and secure. Double-check the wiring diagrams for both components to ensure that you have connected them correctly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check for shorts: Use a multimeter on continuity mode to check for any shorts in the wiring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="34947" LastActivityDate="2023-05-07T14:32:38.500" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20911" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-05-07T16:48:45.717" Score="2" ViewCount="64" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am trying to print Benchy at 50% scale out of nylon (trimmer line). And all is ok, but there is under-extrusion when the boards are already printed, but before printing the roof. Sometimes it is so severe that the roof comes off under slight pressure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried temperatures of 250, 255 and 263 degrees, 0.45 * 0.2 and 0.6 * 0.3 extrusion size, no fan and slight cooling, and have seen no difference except sometimes under-extrusion occurs at the window level, but sometimes slightly higher (but not at the roof).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I left nylon overnight in oven at 60 - 65 degrees, but it had not dried completely, as the hairs tell. The speed was 30 - 40 mm/s, the slicer is Prusa slicer, the printer is Kingroon KP3S.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Full sized Benchy prints perfectly, except it bends due to thermal shrinking. I printed it at 250 degrees, 0.6 * 0.3 extrusion and 80 speed, so the extruder is totally fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The small layer size itself is also not the cause, as the smoke stack prints ok (at least when cooled). It could be extrusion of the nylon during head movement due to water boiling and therefore insufficient amount of plastic where it should be, but I can not see any significant lumps of plastic anywhere else.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What it can be and how can I overcome this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aBSkF.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;255 degrees 0.6*0.3 40mm/s&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aBSkF.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;255 degrees 0.6*0.3 40mm/s&quot; title=&quot;255 degrees 0.6*0.3 40mm/s&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Gw7UW.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;The same benchy broken&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Gw7UW.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;The same benchy broken&quot; title=&quot;The same benchy broken&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3kUqm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Left: 263 degrees 0.6*0.3 30mm/s, right: 255 degrees 0.45*0.2 40mm/s&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3kUqm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Left: 263 degrees 0.60.3 30mm/s, right: 255 degrees 0.450.2 40mm/s&quot; title=&quot;Left: 263 degrees 0.6*0.3 30mm/s, right: 255 degrees 0.45*0.2 40mm/s&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/d4SUR.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;100% 250 degrees 0.6*0.3 80mm/s&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/d4SUR.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;100% 250 degrees 0.6*0.3 80mm/s&quot; title=&quot;100% 250 degrees 0.6*0.3 80mm/s&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="38229" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2023-05-07T18:51:34.747" LastActivityDate="2023-05-07T18:51:34.747" Title="Underextrusion on small layers" Tags="|underextrusion|prusaslicer|nylon|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20912" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-05-07T16:58:31.850" Score="0" ViewCount="93" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to know how to combine this effectivly. I know where the files are located and that I can include them into A2tech. The thing is, that as example the &amp;quot;pcb-terminal-block-female-1x2&amp;quot; from &amp;quot;Electronic Parts &amp;gt; Connectors &amp;gt; power-connectors&amp;quot; provides a sketch for drilling holes, but I do not understand how to utelize it. Sure, I can create the holes in my pcb part based on the sketch, but still need to manually add the parts in A2plus?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="38233" LastActivityDate="2023-05-07T16:58:31.850" Title="How to use FreeCAD part library with A2Plus" Tags="|cad|freecad|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20913" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-05-07T19:05:42.937" Score="1" ViewCount="136" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Info:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Printer - Creality Ender 3 V2 (slightly modified)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;replaced original hotend with another standard hotend (same model)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;PEI coated magnetic bed (printing on rough side.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;CRTouch ABL&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Filament - Sunlu Marble PLA+ (~1.5 weeks old) / JAYO White PLA+ (opened today)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Slicer - PrusaSlicer 2.6.0&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Firmware - E3V2S1/&amp;quot;Professional Firmware&amp;quot; build 20230312&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Settings -&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;0.4 mm nozzle (and set to 0.4 mm in slicer)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;0.12 mm layer height (same for first)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;210 °C nozzle, 55 °C bed&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;extrusion multiplier of 1 (100 %)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;relatively slow print speed (40 mm/s or less)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The Issue:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Started printing marble PLA+ without problems for approx. a week, then had issues with the first layer. A mix of inconsistent- and under-extrusion. I figured the nozzle was clogged since marble filament is more prone to clogging and ended up swapping to another 0.4 mm nozzle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Printed one model flawlessly, then the same issue again. Inconsistent extrusion leading to a rough and weak first layer. Swapped the nozzle again and decided to print in standard PLA+ to see if the filament was the issue. It wasn't - got another decent first print (temp tower), then I observed the same issue with both rolls of filament I mentioned, so I doubt it's bad tolerances there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Other things I've tried (to no avail):&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;calibrated E-Steps (they were already 98 % to perfect)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;checked nozzle clogs (extruding manually works perfectly fine, doubt it's clogged)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;checked extruder arm for cracks (no cracks)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;checked extruder tension (doesn't skip)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;re-leveled bed (and generated mesh) for every print&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;adjusted flow during printing (120 % still had inconsistencies)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;swapped nozzles (4 times in total now) to see if I just got a bad one&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;checked if my x-gantry wasn't level&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm at a bit of a loss as to what else could cause this.&#xA;Here's some images, apologies if they're too fuzzy, it's the best my camera would do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/D0mXu.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;A close-up of the lines&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/D0mXu.png&quot; alt=&quot;A close-up of the lines&quot; title=&quot;A close-up of the lines&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1EYK4.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Inconsistent lines showing up *only* on the back and right side&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1EYK4.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Inconsistent lines showing up only on the back and right side&quot; title=&quot;Inconsistent lines showing up *only* on the back and right side&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sDxVK.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Poor first layer as a result&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sDxVK.png&quot; alt=&quot;Poor first layer as a result&quot; title=&quot;Poor first layer as a result&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="38234" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2023-05-07T20:45:58.990" LastActivityDate="2023-05-07T20:45:58.990" Title="Consistently inconsistent/blobby first layer" Tags="|creality-ender-3|troubleshooting|pla|extrusion|bowden|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20914" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-05-07T21:16:31.420" Score="0" ViewCount="29" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am using Grasshopper for clay 3D printing and I have struggled with E calculus in vase mode especially when:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The layer &lt;strong&gt;heights&lt;/strong&gt; are not equal (adaptive mode to ensure each layer touch below one)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Small layer height enough that a few point-to-point Z difference in layers do not surpass the 50-micron limit of the printer, for example, printer each 5 point will increase height once, and this leads to extrusion at that point&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please, how can this be done when I have:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Distance between point to point&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Height difference between neighbor points&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Nozzle diameter&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="38235" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2023-05-07T23:36:50.887" LastActivityDate="2023-05-07T23:36:50.887" Title="Vase mode extrusion calculation" Tags="|extrusion|vase-mode|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20915" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-05-08T05:13:58.447" Score="0" ViewCount="1626" Body="&lt;p&gt;My ender 3 is repeatedly claiming there is a power outage at the exact same spot in a specific print over and over again. There obviously has been no power outage. The chord is very secure in the outlet, nothing else in the house has turned off or reset, and it happens in the exact same spot over and over again. I've run this print probably about 5 times now, and other prints in between as well. My other prints seem to work (I didn't really want them, so I stop them pretty early on, but long enough I feel confident those prints aren't having the same problem.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It stops about a couple millimeters after the first circuit of the brim. It claims there was a power outage, and asks if I'd like to resume or quit the print. If I choose to resume, it does not resume from the same spot; it restarts the print from the beginning, makes one circuit of the brim and then dies in the exact same way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What on earth is going on?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to read through &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/16474/why-is-my-ender-3-restarting-spontaneously-in-mid-print&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; answer. But I guess I don't know the anatomy of my printer well enough. All I understand is that he's saying a wire might be loose somewhere. I think he meant one of the wires from the power supply to the rest of the board (as he had already ruled out from the wall to the power supply).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I don't believe that's what's going on with me. If my problem were the same as his, I would expect that my print should start working again after slowing the print down to perhaps 25% of the default speed. But after testing this the problem persists. I believe the problem has to do with the gcode file itself, but I have no idea how to go about testing that hypothesis.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="38239" LastActivityDate="2023-05-08T05:13:58.447" Title="ender 3 repeated power outage issue" Tags="|creality-ender-3|power-supply|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20917" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-05-08T14:51:27.593" Score="0" ViewCount="302" Body="&lt;p&gt;Im about two years into struggling with the BTT Smart Filament Sensor.  I asked for help &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/18351/getting-btt-filament-sensor-to-work&quot;&gt;on here&lt;/a&gt; and on Reddit about two years ago, got frustrated, and put it in my parts drawer for a while.  Now I'm trying again. I actually &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.reddit.com/r/BIGTREETECH/comments/1382qah/struggling_with_btt_smart_filament_sensor/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;asked AGAIN on Reddit&lt;/a&gt; recently, but I discovered some things while being helped over there and I figured I should start with a fresh post, not confusing and cluttered lost in the discussion thread.  Long thread sorry, but I've tried LOTS of stuff:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The problem&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Right when I start prints, it'll always trigger and say its out of filament and needs to unload the filament. Or if I push past that and tell it to reload the filament and keep going, it'll happen again maybe a half a layer later.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Relevant Info about my printer:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Originally an Ender 3 Pro&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Still original screen (not tft as I've heard that can be an issue)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Swapped the mainboard with a BTT E3 RRF&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Using Marlin bugfix-2.1.X&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Print through octoprint&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Changes I've made to firmware&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.makenprint.uk/3d-printing/3d-printing-reviews/3d-printer-accessory-reviews/btt-smart-filament-sensor-guide/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Followed this guide to the letter&lt;/a&gt;.  I've checked and double checked this like 5x.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Code in start of prints&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've read in several places that you need certain start codes in the beginning of your gcode for marlin to recognize and use your filament sensor.  Stuff like this (in the notes of marlin):&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/r3qHi.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/r3qHi.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've tried prints with and without this, still fails either way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Other things I've looked at:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some posts have mentioned that even if you set the filament detection length to 7 in your firmware (as is recommended), that it doesn't always carry over into your printer unless you use m500.  Well, I've done that, and it seems to have 'stuck'.  When i use m412 I get this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yteV4.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yteV4.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also some posts have suggested using longer lengths, in the past I've gone as high as 25, it still didn't work and would still trigger, just maybe a few moments later.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I use m119 to see if the endstops are even being detected, it seems to understand the filament sensor is plugged in.  I.e. if there is NO filament in the sensor and I run m119, it says this:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yZEIQ.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yZEIQ.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But if there IS filament in the sensor, it says this:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/u4nz1.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/u4nz1.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think that's backwards, correct?  (Could someone with a working BTT Smart Filament sensor please confirm that for me? I've asked a few times and haven't got an answer yet)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lastly, per this thread, I was going to change my runout_state from low to high, because as one of the commentors suggsted, if the sensor is interpreting it backwards (which again, I THINK it is from above) then that could help.  They suggested trying a print without filament and seeing if the printer would 'print' or be stopped by the filament sensor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Well, before I changed the runout state I tried that, (printing with no filament) and it still triggered.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lastly, per &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.reddit.com/r/BIGTREETECH/comments/1382qah/comment/jixvd02/?utm_source=share&amp;amp;utm_medium=web2x&amp;amp;context=3&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this comment&lt;/a&gt; on my reddit thread, it was suggested to check the wires because they had their wires in the wrong place when they bought theirs.  I did that and here's what I found.  My wires aren't colored so I'm just arbitrarily numbering them 1,2,3:&#xA;Here's what I found when moving them around:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NBIu1.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NBIu1.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the way they are now seems to be the only way that gives me two different states.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Am I doing something obviously wrong?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15186" LastActivityDate="2023-05-08T14:51:27.593" Title="Struggling to get BTT Smart Filament Sensor to work" Tags="|creality-ender-3|filament-sensor|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20918" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-05-08T16:00:41.620" Score="0" ViewCount="85" Body="&lt;p&gt;I took a scan using Polycam on my phone of a 3D object and exported it, but when put it in Cura it says there are missing surfaces, and I’m pretty sure this is because it’s only taken face-on, there is no back. When I go to print preview it looks strange and doesn’t work, I just want to print the scan I have taken attached to a block or something.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am happy to provide images, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="38245" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2023-05-08T16:04:42.560" LastActivityDate="2023-05-08T17:16:39.793" Title="How to print a Single face (one sided) 3D scan" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20919" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20918" CreationDate="2023-05-08T17:16:39.793" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you've created a 3D scan, the resulting mesh will have depth, perhaps not a great depth. The slicer dislikes open mesh and as you've discovered, will not print in a manner to meet your requirements.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using a third party program to adjust the mesh into a 2D image, you can then extrude the necessary depth to create a manifold 3D print. Without knowing your comfort level with other software, it can be a challenge to determine the best program.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First to mind is Meshmixer (free, multi-platform), Fusion 360 (free hobbyist version), OpenSCAD, (free, multi-platform) and many others with which I'm not as familiar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One would import the recently created mesh, clean up the debris typically created by these scanner programs and if possible, extrude within the selected program to create the depth aspect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As an example, one can import the mesh file into Fusion 360, create a sketch plane and project the mesh onto the plane. This creates the 2D image which can be extruded within Fusion 360 to create a printable, exportable file.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The real key here is to implement just one more program to take that step to your goal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastActivityDate="2023-05-08T17:16:39.793" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20921" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15922" CreationDate="2023-05-09T17:00:29.263" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had the constant beeping, black screen issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I went to &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.crealitycloud.com/software-firmware/firmware?type=2&amp;amp;keyword&amp;amp;system=0&amp;amp;subType=60067926229435d86f60789a&amp;amp;hardware=V4.2.2&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Creality Cloud Firmware for 3D Printers: Ender 3 v2 Mainboard version 4.2.2&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I installed &lt;code&gt;Ender-3 V2-Marlin-2.0.1 - V1.2.1 - Filament&lt;/code&gt; because I have the Ender 3 v2 4.2.2 board. This is the only firmware that loaded. I then reran all the other compatible firmware and it loaded them fine. But it only fixed itself once I ran the one with &lt;code&gt;- Filament&lt;/code&gt;. &lt;strong&gt;No idea why!?!?!&lt;/strong&gt; I spent hours and this is what did it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The site's root is &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.crealitycloud.com/software-firmware&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Creality Cloud: Download Creality Firmware and Software&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="38258" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2023-05-10T08:28:22.753" LastActivityDate="2023-05-10T08:28:22.753" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20922" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20924" CreationDate="2023-05-10T08:07:26.050" Score="1" ViewCount="39" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am interested in 3D printing projects and I use the Cura program for that purpose. Lately, when I preview my models in the Cura program to prepare for printing, I encounter an error and my prints come out distorted. I am using version Cura 4.10.0. Does anyone have experience with this version? Could there be an issue with the integrity or the geometric compatibility of my files in terms of dimensions and size? If anyone has experienced a similar problem, could you please help me?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you in advance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="38084" LastActivityDate="2023-05-10T10:07:51.597" Title="Preview bug in Cura 4.10.0" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20923" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20896" CreationDate="2023-05-10T09:16:06.030" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you want, check your fan. There might be something stuck inside. You can clean it with a soft toothbrush. Take a look at the fan blades as well. Sometimes they can get bent. If the fan is spinning at a high speed, you can check the area where it's mounted. It may not be securely in place. Also, these kinds of issues can sometimes be software- related. Make sure to update your printer with any available updates.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="38084" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2023-05-10T10:13:36.623" LastActivityDate="2023-05-10T10:13:36.623" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20924" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20922" CreationDate="2023-05-10T10:07:51.597" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You are using a fairly old version of UltiMaker Cura, you should try a more recent version of Cura to test if it happens in the newer version as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Currently, at the time of writing, the latest version of Cura is 5.3.1.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2023-05-10T10:07:51.597" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20925" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20820" CreationDate="2023-05-10T11:58:53.977" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Thanks to @kosteklvp's instructions in commentary, I was able to correctly calibrate my extruder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using a third-party app (octoprint via raspberry pi in my case) gave me more flexibility with settings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Following @kosteklvp's proposed procedure (&lt;a href=&quot;https://teachingtechyt.github.io/calibration.html#esteps&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;at this link&lt;/a&gt;) allowed me to achieve my calibration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I still have other troubles while printing, but no more related to my extruder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37314" LastActivityDate="2023-05-10T11:58:53.977" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20927" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15745" CreationDate="2023-05-10T17:47:41.213" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I saw lot of mods out there, but after study the problem I can say that I've resolved with not much effort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The stock fans are good, but they are 24v due to PSU that is 24v and add a dc-dc converter make everything more complicated and rise costs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So those are my mods easy and effective.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On hot end a Sunon MF40202V2-1000C-A99 DC 24V 0.68W 40x40x20mm&#xA;still 24v but rated for 21db. You have to build a custom fan holder to achieve 4020 fan.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On motherboard and PSU I've left stock fans but added two mianiture Mini-360 dc-dc bucks. You can regulate the voltage between 12-15v and choose the noise you prefer. The fans are still fast to move good airflow inside PSU and mainboard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PSU on Ender 2 V2 Neo has a black cover with small holes, it's way restrictive, it's better to remove this cover or enlarge holes or cut a big hole with 50mm cupsaw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you remove the whole cover you can print my small cover for the high tension cables.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6015148&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6015148&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="38271" LastActivityDate="2023-05-10T17:47:41.213" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20928" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20863" CreationDate="2023-05-10T18:46:45.593" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;My suggestion here is that you should work with a 3D printer that operates with powdered material, even if it is expensive. You can take a look at this link, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.mikron3d.com/ultrasint-pp-3d-yazici-tozu-874-d&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Ultrasint PP 3D Printer Powder&lt;/a&gt;, for some ideas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The printing material you will use will emit a much smoother light within the LED as it is printed in very thin layers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zagc0.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Cube made using the sintering technique, and the material used is PA2200&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zagc0.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Cube made using the sintering technique, and the material used is PA2200&quot; title=&quot;Cube made using the sintering technique, and the material used is PA2200&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The cube in this photograph has been made using the sintering technique, and the material used is PA2200. We printed with a powder 3D printer that we use in my company.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="38084" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2023-05-14T07:50:50.317" LastActivityDate="2023-05-14T07:50:50.317" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20930" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-05-11T05:50:31.297" Score="0" ViewCount="47" Body="&lt;p&gt;I own an Anycubic Vyper printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When uploading the new firmware there was some error and the upload failed. Now the display shows nothing and is black. Is there any possible fix?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="38254" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2023-05-24T10:36:33.183" LastActivityDate="2023-05-24T10:36:33.183" Title="Anycubic Vyper - original LCD fail (not working)" Tags="|anycubic-vyper|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20932" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-05-11T12:12:32.247" Score="1" ViewCount="460" Body="&lt;p&gt;The gold standard for levelling the bed on a resin printer seems to be using a sheet of paper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any reason why is can't be done by lowering the bed to home while the FEP tank is in place and leveling it there?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm specifically thinking of the Elegoo Saturn, where the bed is levelled by undoing two bolts and moving it to home, and then tightening the bolts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For situations where everything is covered with wet resin and you don't want to have to clean everything up or to risk getting resin on your glass. Not for everyday levelling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="29097" LastActivityDate="2023-05-11T14:38:08.903" Title="Leveling a printer bed using the FEP in the tank?" Tags="|bed-leveling|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20933" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-05-11T14:01:12.053" Score="0" ViewCount="119" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am currently working on my research project in the field of additive manufacturing, specifically focusing on estimating the build time of FDM (Fused Deposition Modeling). As part of my work, I am seeking guidance on how to calculate or estimate the build time for FDM processes.&#xA;I would like to understand the equation or methodology used to determine the build time, particularly for both a single part and decomposed parts. Additionally, I am interested in knowing how to calculate the number of decomposed parts in the build process.&#xA;If possible, I would appreciate insights into any specific factors or considerations that should be taken into account when calculating the build time, such as material properties, printer settings, or part geometry.&#xA;Any references, recommended literature, or personal experiences related to this topic would be highly valuable to my research.&#xA;Thank you in advance for your time and expertise. I look forward to learning from your insights and contributions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="38279" LastActivityDate="2023-05-12T16:12:11.463" Title="How can we calculate the build time of FDM (Fused Deposition Modeling)?" Tags="|fdm|printer-building|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="8" ClosedDate="2023-05-13T14:29:50.477" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20934" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20932" CreationDate="2023-05-11T14:38:08.903" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This method has a limited lifespan in solvent printers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Its purpose is to achieve proper and optimal clearance to obtain suitable organs and structures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It appears to be easier to adjust the FEP reservoir while it is fixed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, the issues present here can be more significant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any force that creates pressure on the FEP can result in punctures or leaks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Printing with such qualities resembling this kind of problem can cause inferior prints.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can recommend a clean cloth and a medium-soft brush as the simplest options for you. These will be sufficient for cleaning. If they are not enough for you, you can use some isopropyl alcohol.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="38084" LastActivityDate="2023-05-11T14:38:08.903" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20935" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20945" CreationDate="2023-05-11T21:41:25.310" Score="3" ViewCount="180" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've recently gotten into Resin 3d printing with a refurbished Elegoo Mars 1 but I've run into a weird bug where the printer would not expose any resin to the LCD.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tested it by taking off the build plate and basin and looked at the LCD when it was exposing the layers. I've tried updating the firmware and tested about 20 odd prints of various sizes and detail. With those I saw that prints with large individual layers essentially stopped the LCD entirely (The exposure would flash on the LCD for a second then the LCD would not turn on again until I completely restarted the printer). What is more bizarre is that the first test print I did worked perfectly and still does for some reason (which was the tugboat and a random miniature).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For specific printer details I have an Elegoo Mars with the C type motherboard. There are no burn marks on the wiring or circuits and the LCD screen was replaced recently with a brand new one. And nothing is misaligned or unplugged. I even double checked that the LCD was still functional with the test exposure tools on the printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From my observations it is a data streaming issue with how it is connected with the USB drive. But that is a software issue that I am not capable of knowing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas on what could be wrong or if this has happened before?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT&lt;/strong&gt;: Discovered that the Firmware needed to be updated to the latest version. Also, after testing out several very different print files the original print file that was having this issue was corrupted in some way as rebuilding it and printing the new version more or less worked. I also did another go around with cleaning everything and making sure that both the plate was level/tightened, FEP replaced, and that there was no IPA leftover on either.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="38284" LastEditorUserId="38284" LastEditDate="2023-05-17T15:45:29.520" LastActivityDate="2024-03-25T19:37:20.913" Title="Resin printer LCD breaks if layer is too big" Tags="|resin|lcd-screen|elegoo-mars|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20936" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20937" CreationDate="2023-05-11T21:41:56.253" Score="2" ViewCount="114" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HampD.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HampD.png&quot; alt=&quot;shape&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would like to print the outer contour without extraction, and after that print the straight lines between the contour. I attached a picture how Cura does the slicing. It does several extractions from the outer contour to print the straight lines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a setting so that Cura slices so that the outer wall is done first, without extractions and finally does the straight lines in between?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am not looking for &amp;quot;vase mode&amp;quot;, but almost. I would prefer a nice outer contour.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25983" LastActivityDate="2023-05-12T06:21:44.680" Title="How to print the outer contour before inner lines with Cura?" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|slicing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20937" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20936" CreationDate="2023-05-11T22:01:21.140" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As far as I understand Cura, you can't. It optimizes the path, this isn't always how we would think or like it to be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To fix this, you'll need to write your own G-code, for such a simple geometry this should be very doable if you have some programming skills. It is printing an elliptical shape with cross lines, the latter all having a little offset from the previous layer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With limited programming skils you could also achieve some success. When the current sliced G-code is inspected in e.g. an online G-code interpreter/visiulizer, you could extract the correct path for the elliptical circumference (cutting out/move the parts that break the printing of the circumference as a whole) to ensure continuity of printing the outer elliptical shell. Note that you need to take care of the &lt;code&gt;E&lt;/code&gt; parameter in the code as this must be reset e.g. using (&lt;code&gt;G92&lt;/code&gt;)[https://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#G92:_Set_Position] to the correct starting point for extrusion. Once obtained you have a continuous printing code for the outer shell. Now you need to add the cross line paths to be placed after a move to the correct position. It would be beneficial to have the formula of the elliptical shape to determine the length of the cross line and the position it needs to start, otherwise you need to move the cross line printed parts here. This may be a lot of work to achieve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2023-05-12T06:21:44.680" LastActivityDate="2023-05-12T06:21:44.680" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20938" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-05-11T22:18:46.003" Score="1" ViewCount="744" Body="&lt;p&gt;My printer is the Creality Ender 3 V2 Neo printer. Firmware is factory new.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can see the problem below:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KZemP.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KZemP.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;As you see, the long rectangle on the bottom is getting cut off when printed. Outline shown in red shows the path the printer is really taking. &lt;em&gt;(you can ignore the gray area, it is only there because both long rectangles are part of the same .stl file)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is another view of the sliced print:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nZ9Kl.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nZ9Kl.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally, you can see in this other picture:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tRprm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tRprm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The print started quite a bit from the left edge&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The start G-code, which prints lines on the left, printed lines closer to the left edge than where the print started&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is the start G-code:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;; Ender 3 Custom Start G-code&#xA;G92 E0 ; Reset Extruder&#xA;G28 ; Home all axes&#xA;G29 ;&#xA;G1 Z2.0 F3000 ; Move Z Axis up little to prevent scratching of Heat Bed&#xA;G1 X0.1 Y20 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move to start position&#xA;G1 X0.1 Y200.0 Z0.3 F1500.0 E15 ; Draw the first line&#xA;G1 X0.4 Y200.0 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move to side a little&#xA;G1 X0.4 Y20 Z0.3 F1500.0 E30 ; Draw the second line&#xA;G92 E0 ; Reset Extruder&#xA;G1 Z2.0 F3000 ; Move Z Axis up little to prevent scratching of Heat Bed&#xA;G1 X5 Y20 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move over to prevent blob squish&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Slicer settings:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BlCKU.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BlCKU.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4PCO7.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4PCO7.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I fix this? Is this due to the slicer? Due to the firmware? In either case, how do I change it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="38286" LastEditorUserId="38286" LastEditDate="2023-05-13T17:44:11.597" LastActivityDate="2023-05-13T17:44:11.597" Title="Model is cut off when printing despite showing correctly on slicer" Tags="|creality-ender-3|troubleshooting|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20939" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20938" CreationDate="2023-05-12T07:03:22.323" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I look at the printed middle rectangle, it appears that the printer is printing way too far to the right, or, your slicer used an incorrect bed size.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should look into question &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6375/how-to-center-my-prints-on-the-build-platform-re-calibrate-homing-offset&quot;&gt;How to center my prints on the build platform? (Re-calibrate homing offset)&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6399/recalibrating-home-position?noredirect=1&amp;amp;lq=1&quot;&gt;Recalibrating Home-position&lt;/a&gt; to center the print area and try to re-print the object again. Furthermore, as far as can be interpreted from the low res images, your printer may need some better leveling as some parts are too high and some too low.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2023-05-12T09:23:32.093" LastActivityDate="2023-05-12T09:23:32.093" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20940" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20860" CreationDate="2023-05-12T07:07:07.103" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Make sure to check your temperature sensors. Examine their position and ensure they are in the correct place (no shifting or bending). Lastly, if you have made any changes in the filament brand or model, you may have encountered this issue. Filaments that have been exposed to air or have become stale do not produce reliable prints.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="38084" LastActivityDate="2023-05-12T07:07:07.103" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20941" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20935" CreationDate="2023-05-12T08:05:00.003" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Resin particles or residues can accumulate on the LCD screen, hindering its proper operation. Check that the connection cables are not loose or damaged.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Before performing a firmware update, I suggest making a backup.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="38084" LastActivityDate="2023-05-12T08:05:00.003" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20944" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20933" CreationDate="2023-05-12T16:06:46.240" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The time estimation of the typical slicer operates the following way:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;First, the model is cut into layers, as demanded by the slicer.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Each layer is solved for its perimeters, infill, and required movement between them, resulting in a very long and complex path that the print head will follow. This is by the way the longest part of slicing.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The length of all paths is multiplied by the speed for each path type, and the times for each segment are added up. Technically, the speed needs to be a term including the 1st and 2nd derivate of the speed (acceleration and jerk), as well as the set max speed, but in older programs, those are often skipped, resulting in a gross underestimation of print times but much faster computation.&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;These durations are added up per layer, so that the next operation can be performed properly.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Then, if a layer has a shorter time than the minimum time, a pause is added into the code at the appropriate place, bringing that layer to the minimum duration.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Finally, all the layer times are added up, resulting in an estimated print time.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Generally, there is no way to estimate the time for heating up the printer to running temperatures, so those times are generally not accounted for in the print time estimates either.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2023-05-12T16:12:11.463" LastActivityDate="2023-05-12T16:12:11.463" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20945" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20935" CreationDate="2023-05-12T16:22:50.137" Score="2" Body="&lt;h2&gt;I've tried updating the firmware...&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;aaand here is most likely your problem. Your Firmware update most likely did not handle properly, resulting in a corrupted firmware. Reinstallation of the firmware might be in order.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might want to test a different USB drive, in case it is a problem with just that specific dongle. Sometimes a USB stick might be ill-formatted or too large to allow running an update.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To verify it is a problem with the USB driver, in many machines one could also slice a model, connect to the printer via a cable and print directly from the computer's slicer. If the problem is the USB port, then this should print properly, but it is not always an option.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2023-05-12T20:37:20.707" LastActivityDate="2023-05-12T20:37:20.707" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20946" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20860" CreationDate="2023-05-12T16:27:10.110" Score="1" Body="&lt;h2&gt;You did not mention your line width...&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the print effects I do reckon that you are printing your model with a line width of 0.4 mm from a 0.4 mm nozzle. Due to the physical properties of different filaments, this can result in lines that are actually more narrow than demanded, resulting in delamination of walls like shown.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6965/why-is-it-conventional-to-set-line-width-nozzle-diameter/6967#6967&quot;&gt;To work against all those problems, it is usually best to demand the printer to print lines about 10 % wider than the nozzle, e.g. 0.45 mm.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastActivityDate="2023-05-12T16:27:10.110" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20947" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20938" CreationDate="2023-05-13T08:03:27.770" Score="0" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Your firmware and slicer operate on different sizes.&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You need to update the firmware to update the bed size (and the 0-Offset) from the factory setting to the actual size. There is no way to alter the Maximum sizes via a direct connection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastActivityDate="2023-05-13T08:03:27.770" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20948" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20823" CreationDate="2023-05-14T08:15:24.440" Score="0" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Well, it could be a bad thermosensor...&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bad Thermosensors do show themselves in multiple ways, among them fluctuating their readings before fully failing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Thermosensors have ranges&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Every thermosensor comes with a range for which it actually can operate reliably. For example, the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.ifm.com/ch/de/product/TS2289&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;TS2289&lt;/a&gt; is rated for -40 to 90 °C, and thus would be not usable for a 3D printer at all, while &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.ifm.com/ch/de/product/TS2452&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;TS2452&lt;/a&gt; is rated for -100 to 600 °C.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The glass bead sensor on a Creality Ender3 is a &lt;em&gt;‎ntc 100k thermistor&lt;/em&gt;. That is only a class, and it contains multiple entries. This is not actually a specific sensor but a class that contains multiple sensors. For example, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.roboter-bausatz.de/p/thermistor-ntc-3950-100k-ohm-mit-1m-anschlusskabel&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;em&gt;NTC 3950&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/a&gt; is listed as -40 to 300 °C, which means it might be &lt;em&gt;barely useable&lt;/em&gt; in that area, yet there might be larger fluctuations than normal as the resolution at the ends of the measuring range gets higher. In about the same dimensions, you might however also get a very similar sensor like thos from the &lt;a href=&quot;https://eu.mouser.com/datasheet/2/18/AAS-920-308B-Thermometrics-NTC-TypeBR-100714-web-1315835.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Datasheet of the NTC Type BR Series&lt;/a&gt;. This document lists BR11/14/16/25 with a ceiling of 200 °C and B32/42/55 with a ceiling of 300 °C, all of which are in a very similar size range.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not all sensors are glass-bead style, like the standard e3D v6 &lt;a href=&quot;https://e3d-online.com/products/thermistor-cartridge&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Thermosensor cartridge&lt;/a&gt;, which is listed as a Semitec 104NT thermistor the ceiling listed as 300 °C, but the same form factor also fits other cartridges. The sensor listed by e3D actually does come as a glass bead style too, &lt;a href=&quot;https://eu.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Semitec/104NT-4-R025H42G?qs=rGO4O3Mig4iE3j3dGyPxTQ%3D%3D&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;listed as -50 to 300 °C&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Such other sensors might be &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dpblog.com/pt100-3d-printing-review&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;PT100B&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dpblog.com/pt1000-3dp-review/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;PT1000&lt;/a&gt; are claimed to accurately work up to 450 °C and might operate reliably even at 500 °C. A similar E3D Thermosensor is the &lt;a href=&quot;https://e3d-online.com/products/pt100-temperature-sensor&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;PT100&lt;/a&gt;, and would also operate fine in that range.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Simply put: to reliably print at those high temperatures, you might want to change the thermosensor for a type that actually does operate reliably in those high-temperature areas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;P.S.&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;I do not use the word thermistor (or thermocouple) here, because those describe specific types of sensor. The more generic term Thermosensor describes &lt;strong&gt;anything&lt;/strong&gt; from a simple thermometer, over thermistors and thermocouples to an IR sensor.&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2023-05-14T08:37:31.863" LastActivityDate="2023-05-14T08:37:31.863" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20949" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7960" CreationDate="2023-05-14T21:44:30.657" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Following up from &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/7960/how-to-clean-up-my-build-plate-for-a-new-build-surface#comment20164_7960&quot;&gt;Charles Duffy's comment&lt;/a&gt;, I can confirm that adhesive remover containing &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Limonene&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;D-limonene&lt;/a&gt; is an effective way of removing remaining glue when replacing an Ender-3 platform sticker. While “Goo Gone” was named in the comment, I used a similar product, Goo Buster.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Goo Buster turned the glue residue into a water soluble gel that was easily removed using a plastic scraper, with final clean up using a wet paper towel. While D-Limonene has a pleasant citrus fragrance, it is an irritant, and these adhesive removers typically also contain petroleum products and surfactants.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As ever, use care when using solvents near electrical devices such as 3D printers. Ensure the device is isolated from power and all parts are clean and dry before operating.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="983" LastActivityDate="2023-05-14T21:44:30.657" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20950" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-05-15T08:19:32.873" Score="3" ViewCount="76" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm a student and I need to 3D print a structure for a research. I know nothing about mechanic parts, joints and interlocking so I hope someone could help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Vrp3b.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Vrp3b.png&quot; alt=&quot;Here you can see the model of the structure I have to print, in white&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt; The diameter of the whole structure is about 44 cm while the diameter of the tubular has to be 1.5/2 cm.&#xA;I need to divide the structure into different pieces:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The part that fits the black tubular: I can't put it there from the top but it has to be 2 different pieces that I can tighten with a bolt in order to assemble and disassemble.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Then, I have to divide the arms from the little circular &amp;quot;plate&amp;quot;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know nothing about interlocking and parts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="38310" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2023-05-15T14:09:50.077" LastActivityDate="2023-05-15T14:09:50.077" Title="Interlocking and joints for 3D printed structure, tips&amp;types" Tags="|3d-models|3d-design|rapid-prototyping|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20952" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20841" CreationDate="2023-05-15T11:39:17.770" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;While doing this, you may encounter the loss of details. To avoid this, precise settings must be made. For example,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Adaptive Size: This option can be used to configure large surfaces and preserve small details.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Detail Smoothing :With this process, a more detailed examination of the surface is checked. This option must be enabled.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Target Triangle Count:It is used to increase the number of triangles that will divide the surface as the mesh operation is repeated. Using this, the more triangles we can cover the surface, the more detailed information can be obtained.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="38084" LastActivityDate="2023-05-15T11:39:17.770" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20953" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20703" CreationDate="2023-05-15T14:16:00.123" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;To me the resulting print pattern reminds me of a common error with blender: the model contains either no volume, not enough volume &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/20705/8884&quot;&gt;as noted by fred_dot_u&lt;/a&gt; or the surfaces are inverted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Further reading to fix your model:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/15868/cura-messes-up-my-print-how-can-i-make-it-print-what-i-see-in-blender&quot;&gt;Cura messes up my print. How can I make it print what I see in Blender?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/q/15048/8884&quot;&gt;3D model with errors when exporting to Cura&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/q/11013/8884&quot;&gt;Slicer is adding additional floor bed&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/q/10437/8884&quot;&gt;Problem in 3D printing of an empty model&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2023-05-15T14:23:24.753" LastActivityDate="2023-05-15T14:23:24.753" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20954" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21074" CreationDate="2023-05-15T17:18:15.680" Score="0" ViewCount="78" Body="&lt;p&gt;A small [7 cm long x 5 cm high x 10 cm deep] hard plastic piece of my old luggage broke (see attached). The manufacturer does not have spares for this old model.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Vsvl2.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Broken part of luggage&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Vsvl2.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Broken part of luggage&quot; title=&quot;Broken part of luggage&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any way to scan the working piece on the left with an Android app and order a 3D printed one-off one?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="38317" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2023-05-15T21:24:53.587" LastActivityDate="2023-06-20T09:23:03.083" Title="Printing spare plastic parts" Tags="|scanning|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20955" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20880" CreationDate="2023-05-15T21:30:17.363" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, you need to change this in the firmware. It has to be changed, built and uploaded. Marlin is a free firmware, and there are lots of tutorials, forks and configurations for the Ender 3 S1 Pro to use as a start. We even have a &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/12153/updating-marlin-firmware-step-by-step-guide&quot;&gt;rough step by step guide&lt;/a&gt; for working on that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2023-05-16T08:06:54.567" LastActivityDate="2023-05-16T08:06:54.567" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20956" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20908" CreationDate="2023-05-15T21:32:57.897" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think I figured this out:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In Cura 5.1 (probably all 5.x) set &amp;quot;model B&amp;quot; to &lt;strong&gt;Modify settings for overlaps&lt;/strong&gt;, instead of &lt;strong&gt;Print as support&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Choose &lt;strong&gt;Cutting mesh&lt;/strong&gt; in the dropdown and select the relevant settings. I chose &lt;strong&gt;Generate Support&lt;/strong&gt;, &lt;strong&gt;Support Overhang Angle&lt;/strong&gt;, &lt;strong&gt;Support Z Distance&lt;/strong&gt;, &lt;strong&gt;Support Roof Thickness&lt;/strong&gt;, and &lt;strong&gt;Support Floor Thickness&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Enable &lt;strong&gt;Generate Support&lt;/strong&gt; for &amp;quot;model B&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Slice and see if it fits your needs. I found that it didn't and it seems to inherit settings that can't be set per model from the general settings. As I didn't want to print support for the other model(s) I simply enabled support for the entire build, changed the settings I wanted changed for my &amp;quot;model B&amp;quot;, and then disabled support for the entire build.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="32873" LastActivityDate="2023-05-15T21:32:57.897" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20957" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-05-17T03:33:48.870" Score="0" ViewCount="466" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sorry this is kind to embarrassing to post compared to other images but this is our first attempts.  It starts out roughly acceptable then does this waffle thing.  I tightened the belts and leveled the plate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a Creality Ender 3 which I use together with UltiMaker Cura slicer. I print in PLA at 220 °C. The print bed is set to 70 °C. I use a print cooling fan at 60 %. The layer height I set to 0.[?] mm, the line width [line width/extrusion width] from the 0.4 mm nozzle. The Printing Speed is set to ? mm/s for walls and [?] mm/s for infill]. My retraction is [?] mm/off at [?] mm/s.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LH06F.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LH06F.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Problem seems to be solved, thanks everyone.  I dropped the temperature to 200 and fan speed to 100% and print looks much better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="38329" LastEditorUserId="38329" LastEditDate="2023-05-18T12:35:32.517" LastActivityDate="2023-05-18T12:35:32.517" Title="terrible quality on Ender 3" Tags="|creality-ender-3|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="15" ClosedDate="2023-05-18T06:57:50.137" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20958" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-05-17T05:11:57.990" Score="1" ViewCount="90" Body="&lt;p&gt;I upgraded my ender 5's main board to a BTT SKR 1.4 Turbo and am using the TMC2130 (V3) drivers. None of my stepper motors are responding&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm having quite a hard time figuring out why the steppers won't move. If I run M122, the spi connection is good and the motors are enabled with the right settings. Then as soon as I send a move command, nothing happens to the motor, but the M122 command shows that it is now disabled.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tried a whole bunch of firmware combinations (Marlin 2.1). I've adjusted the current, disabled hybrid mode, disabled the stealth option, and about every option that anyone online suggested might be an issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;adjusted the vref on the driver and tried every combination of stepper wiring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tomorrow I'm going to try building an Arduino project to drive the motors with the stepper. That will at least verify the driver isn't broken and the motor wiring is correct.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm pretty stumped.... I reached out to BTT for support, but I've heard their support is pretty awful, which I hope to be false.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any help is appreciated. Let me know if I've missed any critical details. This is my first time posting in the 3d print stack exchange.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="38330" LastActivityDate="2023-05-17T05:11:57.990" Title="Stepper Motors not responding, Ender 5, BTT SKR1.4, tmc2130" Tags="|creality-ender-5|stepper|motor|skr-v1.4|tmc2130|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20959" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20957" CreationDate="2023-05-17T06:30:41.643" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a severe under extrusion problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What slicer are you using? It could be a filament diameter setting issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are you using Cura? I don't know about the most recent version but older versions defaulted to 2.85 mm filament diameter which is the diameter the Ultimaker printers use (as Cura is developed by Ultimaker) but the Ender 3 uses 1.75 mm diameter filament.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Have a look at &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/8439/ender-3-severe-under-extrusion&quot;&gt;this question &lt;/a&gt; where a similar issue is discussed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16860" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2023-05-17T21:50:40.077" LastActivityDate="2023-05-17T21:50:40.077" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20960" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19493" CreationDate="2023-05-17T07:49:31.260" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can solder cables to the RX, TX and GND pins on the mainboard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are tutorials on Youtube that describe this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="38327" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2023-05-17T16:49:04.003" LastActivityDate="2023-05-17T16:49:04.003" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20961" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-05-17T15:56:34.473" Score="1" ViewCount="62" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I'm trying to print this part which has some external threads, for some reason Cura puts a lot of start/stops right on the surface of threads. And it makes the thread all dashed/choppy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/t9GQo.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/t9GQo.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The strange part is that a very similar thread on top of the same part is printing just fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AFDZb.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AFDZb.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there some setting that's responsible for this? What is it trying to do with all those starts/stops?&#xA;I tried changing the thickness of the part, thinking maybe it has to do with infill pattern. This didn't help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="38335" LastActivityDate="2023-05-17T15:56:34.473" Title="Weird slicing of threads in Cura" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20962" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20957" CreationDate="2023-05-17T20:47:09.347" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You've probably checked this already but offering a basic issue I've had before on my Ender 3 with the filament not unraveling cleanly from the spool hanger (gets caught on the post or bound up on itself).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When this happens it would produce a similar result to your picture...started fine and then turned into wispy/burnt layers before ending entirely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When this has happened I just need to untangle the filament, clean the nozzle, cut a clean starting point on the filament, and empty the Bowden tube of the old filament.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="38340" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2023-05-17T21:40:10.027" LastActivityDate="2023-05-17T21:40:10.027" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20963" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20954" CreationDate="2023-05-18T00:52:26.790" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You absolutely could try using &lt;a href=&quot;https://poly.cam/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Polycam&lt;/a&gt; to try to scan the piece on the left, and then create a model from it.  That's not &amp;quot;plug-and-play&amp;quot; though - would take some modeling prowess to get it to what you need.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="38340" LastActivityDate="2023-05-18T00:52:26.790" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20964" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-05-18T08:16:32.793" Score="0" ViewCount="143" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yesterday, I was trying to print with PETG for the first time, I have two printers: an Ender 3 Pro and an Ender 5 Plus.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I started with the Ender 3 where there were no problems with coming up to temperature: nozzle set to 235 °C and the bed at 90 °C. I had to change some settings in the slicer as I forgot support, then I forgot to set a proper Z for the first layer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So after a couple of times, I run the printer and it's not reaching up to temperature, it stalls around 225 °C; so 10 °C under my setpoint. I try a few times with no success, then I try heating the nozzle by itself with no success, I gave up with the Ender 3.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I try with the Ender 5 Plus, it happened the same, I try a few times and then it start stalling around 10 °C under the setpoint and then setting off an alarm.&#xA;After trying again and again I can see that if I change the setpoint to 245 °C, for example, it will very easily reach 235 °, then I try changing the setpoint a few times and I can see that it stalls around 10 °C under doesn't matter the setpoint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried repowering the machine, I had the cable off the machine all night and this morning it does the same.&#xA;My Ender 3 Pro has one only upgrade wich is the touch display.&#xA;The Ender 5 Plus doesn't have any upgrades.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="38348" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2023-05-18T21:58:50.860" LastActivityDate="2023-05-18T21:58:50.860" Title="Problem with PID, temperature won't reach setpoint" Tags="|creality-ender-3|creality-ender-5|temperature|pid|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20965" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-05-18T08:18:46.470" Score="1" ViewCount="162" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a similar issue like &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/519/how-to-improve-face-that-are-printed-on-support&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; one. I'm using Cura 5.3.1, a Dremel 3D45 and PLA+ by eSun. The printings are almost perfect and repeatable. The only issue is about flat and large areas over supports.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Like the user of the linked question, I have no problem to remove the supports and they don't leave anything bad on the upper layer. Furthermore I enabled the bridge feature, and even more longer gaps (than the support density) print very nice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here a picture:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6nO6x.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6nO6x.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you can see, the small trenches are clean, while the large box in the middle is awful.&#xA;The supports have a density of 8 mm with the zig-zag pattern. As said before, even without support I can print very good gaps longer than 30 mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To have an idea of the dimensions, the hole has a diameter of 15 mm, and the larger rectangle is 60x45 mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21979" LastActivityDate="2023-05-18T10:28:37.113" Title="How to improve flat, large areas over supports" Tags="|print-quality|ultimaker-cura|pla|support-structures|dremel-3d45|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20967" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20965" CreationDate="2023-05-18T10:28:37.113" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As you mentioned, there are zigzag patterned supports here, but your area is wide and flat, which can sometimes cause printing errors. You can get better results if you try to print your settings by trying one of the grid pattern or rectilinear pattern options.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They have more points of contact than a zigzag pad and leave less roughness in the area under the printed part.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="38084" LastActivityDate="2023-05-18T10:28:37.113" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20968" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14811" CreationDate="2023-05-18T14:42:19.040" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cura now has a &lt;strong&gt;setting &amp;quot;Wipe Nozzle Between Layers&amp;quot;&lt;/strong&gt;, located in the Experimental settings group. it requires the installation of a wipe brush or wipe surface that is fixed to the x axis at a certain x position and moves with it the y and z directions. You can find suitable 3D printable &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/search?q=nozzle%20brush&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;nozzle brush holders&lt;/a&gt; for most 3D printers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It does more or less exactly what you are looking for, just that you do not specify nozzle cleaning intervals &amp;quot;every Xth layer or every one minute&amp;quot; as you want but by print volume – see sub-setting &amp;quot;Material Volume Between Wipes&amp;quot;. B setting this to a very small value, you can however force a wipe after every single layer, as that is the hardcoded maximum number of wipes that this setting will generate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a good article explaining the setting in depth, see &amp;quot;&lt;a href=&quot;https://the3dprinterbee.com/cura-wipe-nozzle-between-layers/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Cura Wipe Nozzle Between Layers&lt;/a&gt;&amp;quot; by Martin Lütkemeyer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2463" LastActivityDate="2023-05-18T14:42:19.040" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20969" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6321" CreationDate="2023-05-18T21:09:28.960" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your &lt;strong&gt;retraction-related setting &amp;quot;Extra Restart Distance&amp;quot;&lt;/strong&gt; = 0.12 mm could be the cause of your issue, by using a too-high value.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know which slicer you use, but it seems that this setting is the equivalent of &amp;quot;Retraction Extra Prime Amount&amp;quot; in Cura, there explained as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some material can ooze away during a travel move, which can be compensated for here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So if retraction happens on layer changes in your case, then this setting could be too high, leading to the observed zits.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Indeed your value is quite high. It is equivalent to &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$\pi \times (\frac{1.75 mm}{2})^2 \times 0.12 mm = 0.29 mm^3$&lt;/span&gt; (assuming 1.75 mm filament). Each of your zits is roughly a half cylinder of 0.6 mm in diameter and 0.35 mm in height, so &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$0.5 \times \pi \times (\frac{0.6 mm}{2})^2 \times 0.35 mm = 0.05 mm^3$&lt;/span&gt;. It is easy to imagine that your 0.29 mm&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt; extra prime amount could be too much by 0.05 mm&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2463" LastEditorUserId="2463" LastEditDate="2023-05-19T22:22:42.580" LastActivityDate="2023-05-19T22:22:42.580" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20973" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20974" CreationDate="2023-05-19T20:28:16.370" Score="0" ViewCount="358" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm printing for the first times on my new Sovol SV04, using their PLA @ 210 °C (after printing a temp tower).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The walls and top layers are almost perfect, but the infill has a lot of gaps between layers:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/88c6X.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/88c6X.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure which parameter needs to be tuned, since the walls are ok and I'm afraid to make a mess...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What could cause this behavior?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21979" LastActivityDate="2023-05-19T20:38:11.583" Title="Gaps in infill only - walls are perfect" Tags="|print-quality|ultimaker-cura|pla|infill|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20974" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20973" CreationDate="2023-05-19T20:38:11.583" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The infill speed might be set too high, but it's possible this is just some of the normal badness of self-intersecting infill like &amp;quot;grid&amp;quot; and &amp;quot;triangles&amp;quot;. If you notice, these patterns have the extrusion path cross back over itself once or twice at the same points. Hitting this barrier of material already being there when the nozzle gets to it causes a rapid spike then drop in backpressure in the nozzle, and tends to make material push upward around the sides, and then underextrude right after the intersection point. This could be the cause of what you're seeing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If so, there are several possible ways to improve the situation:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Use a non-self-intersecting infill pattern like gyroid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Print the infill slower. The effect is lessened by slower motion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Print hotter. I'm not sure why this works, but it does. It might help re-melt the intersection point when slamming through it, or it might just make flow more consistent and less susceptible to the pressure swing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this isn't the issue, other things to check for:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;That flow % for infill hasn't been turned down in slicing settings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;That your infill speed times line width times layer height (in units if mm³/s) is within the flow capabilities of your hotend and extruder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2023-05-19T20:38:11.583" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20975" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20896" CreationDate="2023-05-20T06:21:07.567" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I got a used Artillery Hornet back in December 2022 and whenever it began heating up the nozzle it would make noises like those of a jet engine. It was crazy. It needed some maintenance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Important:&lt;/strong&gt; Please &lt;strong&gt;unplug your printer&lt;/strong&gt; before cleaning it. It &amp;quot;being off&amp;quot; isn't enough. Safety first at all times.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I did was check every fan the printer has, so the ones on the carriage (in the hornet I had three next to the heating block) but also in the power source, and make sure they were completely clean from dust bunnies/cat hair/anything else. You'll see how it accumulates on the edge of the blades. You can collect the fluff with tweezers, then use a cotton swab with isopropyl alcohol in case there's some stubborn dirt left you need to gently scrub off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Afterwards I added a tiny droplet of graphite grease on the little hole they have on the back; sometimes it's covered with a sticker, in that case peel it off to access said hole. Don't go overboard of course, just a tiny drop is enough. Spin it a little to make sure the lubricant is spread evenly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Reassemble everything, plug the printer and try heating up the nozzle again to check for results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would try this before checking for more involved things like software issues. You'd be surprised at how much of a difference the regular cleaning and lubrication of your printer makes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37870" LastActivityDate="2023-05-20T06:21:07.567" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20976" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-05-20T13:48:26.650" Score="0" ViewCount="38" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xr88F.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xr88F.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Image of ragged cubic infill&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;Using settings and filament (Flashforge Flexible PLA) that work well on my Ender S1, I am having trouble with cubic infill on the Neptune 3 max.  I was wondering if you could offer some advice.  The cubic infill becomes very ragged.  (See picture).  When I use grid infill it is better but still a little ragged.  I am printing pretty slowly at 50.  I have calculated E-steps.  I was thinking I could raise the z-offset but I calculated this during leveling and the bottom and top layers look great.  Any help would be appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="38387" LastActivityDate="2023-05-20T13:48:26.650" Title="New Neptune 3 Max. Cubic infill problems. Flexible Flashforge PLA" Tags="|print-quality|infill|elegoo-neptune-3|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20977" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-05-20T22:04:37.260" Score="0" ViewCount="21" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Custom Printer BLV, but since I bought the board, MKS SGen L V1.0, never had been possible for any PC can recognize the board. Now, I'm having an issue with the temperature calibration, and it's impossible to set a setting for the PID. Is there any way to activate something as my PC can recognize the machine?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I use pronterface, even the software blocks itself after few minutes, due to never advancing the message connecting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Marlin 2.0.X&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fYP4N.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fYP4N.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;MKS SGen L V1.0&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12715" LastActivityDate="2023-05-20T22:04:37.260" Title="How I could make that my PC can recognize MKS SGen L V1.0" Tags="|pronterface|mks|pid|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20979" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20981" CreationDate="2023-05-21T07:08:24.087" Score="1" ViewCount="622" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm currently using Cura for one printer (Hellbot Magna SE, essentially an Ender clone) and PrusaSlicer for another (Artillery Hornet).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I first learned this method for multicolored prints with Cura on &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h_Mohd7JLzw&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;CHEP's channel&lt;/a&gt; since I have had awful accidents with manual filament changes in the past, given that my Hellbot printer doesn't understand the M600 command and I have to use M0 pauses instead. this way works great and gives me a lot of peace of mind since now I can leave the printer unattended for a bit knowing it will finish printing then turn the nozzle and bed off, home on all axes and just sit there idle until I come back and start the next print on top, this one sliced with the corresponding Z Offset value so as to not collide with the one currently sitting on the bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would like to do the same on my Hornet, but I use PrusaSlicer with it since the builtin profile is so much better, and I can't figure out how to do it. I have located the Z Offset setting, but &lt;a href=&quot;https://help.prusa3d.com/article/how-to-lift-object-from-the-print-bed_245192&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;the only way to be able to lift objects from the platter seems to be by making them &amp;quot;parts&amp;quot; of another one&lt;/a&gt;, and in that case I lose the option to disable the &amp;quot;Printable&amp;quot; flag that lets me hide the different components of the object so I can slice them and export them as separate files.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Note:&lt;/strong&gt; While typing this it just occurred to me maybe setting the&#xA;corresponding Z Offset for the object that goes on top of the one&#xA;already on the bed &lt;em&gt;without making it a part&lt;/em&gt; but rather the only&#xA;thing on the platter might work? Perhaps this isn't necessary for&#xA;PrusaSlicer to generate the code that I need. I'll test this tomorrow&#xA;but anything that implies possible collisions will always make me a&#xA;bit nervous. I will update the question with the result of the test.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks in advance!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37870" LastActivityDate="2023-07-04T04:39:32.863" Title="Trying to print separate models one on top of the other using PrusaSlicer" Tags="|prusaslicer|multi-material|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20980" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19617" CreationDate="2023-05-21T18:45:01.947" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Don't forget to add&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;M420 S0&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;after the &lt;code&gt;G28&lt;/code&gt; command in the G-code, else you have to level bed before every print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="38400" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2023-05-21T23:12:26.883" LastActivityDate="2023-05-21T23:12:26.883" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20981" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20979" CreationDate="2023-05-22T06:08:01.200" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm gonna answer myself since I tested my hypothesis today.&#xA;Turns out in PrusaSlicer you don't need to &amp;quot;elevate&amp;quot; the model from the build plate and make it sit on the other model in order to be able to print on top of it. Just the Z Offset option is enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's what I did:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Load the first part that will sit at the bottom.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Right click it and Add Part(s). This will be just for reference.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Take note of the height of each part (this will be the Z Offset for the next print)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Remove all parts and import the files as separate models.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Now you can generate separate files for each of them. First one will of course have an offset of 0, next one will have an offset equal to the previous ones' heights, and so on.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As an important note, &lt;strong&gt;only have your bed on for the first print, afterwards always leave it off as this will start to deform the print from below&lt;/strong&gt;. I recommend you use glue stick or hairspray to help the adhesion instead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37870" LastActivityDate="2023-05-22T06:08:01.200" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20982" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-05-22T07:40:55.337" Score="2" ViewCount="96" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Sovol SV04 has a &amp;quot;parking&amp;quot; position for the nozzles (i.e. X = -60), outside the bed area. The parking position has a small basket below to catch little pieces of the filament, and a rubber that wipes the nozzle when it enters the bed area.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I launch a printing, the nozzle goes at the center of the working area and sits down there to wait until the temperature reaches the target. In my opinion it should sit at the parking position, so when the print begins the nozzle will be cleaned by the rubber.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm using Cura 5.3.1. Is there a setting I can tweak?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm aware about the experimental feature &amp;quot;Wipe nozzle between layers&amp;quot; but it's not what I'm looking for. I inspected the start gcode of the machine:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;;Single 01 start&#xA;M140 S{material_bed_temperature};&#xA;M104 T0 S{material_print_temperature};&#xA;M280 P0 S160;&#xA;G4 P100;&#xA;G28;&#xA;T0&#xA;M190 S{material_bed_temperature};&#xA;M109 T0 S{material_print_temperature};&#xA;G92 E0;&#xA;G1 X10.1 Y20 Z0.28 F5000.0;&#xA;G1 X10.1 Y200.0 Z0.28 F1500.0 E15;&#xA;G1 X10.4 Y200.0 Z0.28 F5000.0;&#xA;G1 X10.4 Y20 Z0.28 F1500.0 E30;&#xA;G92 E0 ;Reset Extruder&#xA;G1 Z2.0 F3000;&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I manually hack this adding, say, a &lt;code&gt;G0 X-60&lt;/code&gt;) at the beginning?&#xA;Or is there a more elegant solution? But most important: is there a reason why it's not enabled by default? Perhaps there is a drawback I don't see...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21979" LastActivityDate="2024-01-15T22:30:10.137" Title="Let the nozzle wait on the parking position" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|g-code|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20983" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-05-22T07:44:52.360" Score="1" ViewCount="164" Body="&lt;p&gt;I downloaded this &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1513491&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;SpaceNavErgoStand_for Space Navigator NB USB&lt;/a&gt; from Thingiverse. But Cura 5.3.1 refuses to slice it:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FiTeA.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Screenshot of a 3D model in Cura&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FiTeA.png&quot; alt=&quot;Screenshot of a 3D model in Cura&quot; title=&quot;Screenshot of a 3D model in Cura&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm aware I can file a bug report, but before I'm kindly asking here if there is something obvious I missed. Of course, I tried to change a lot of settings, but it never sliced it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To be clear, the failure happened with the printer Dremel 3D45 as reported in the tag. Using another printer, like Sovol SV04 there are no errors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are the machine settings. As said, they are the default ones. I didn't change anything. And I also tried to install Cura and the Dremel printer on a new PC. Same behavior.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5xnHJ.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;The Dremel 3D45 printer settings inside of Cura&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5xnHJ.png&quot; alt=&quot;The Dremel 3D45 printer settings inside of Cura&quot; title=&quot;The Dremel 3D45 printer settings inside of Cura&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GBA7U.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;The Dremel 3D45 extruder settings inside of Cura&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GBA7U.png&quot; alt=&quot;The Dremel 3D45 extruder settings inside of Cura&quot; title=&quot;The Dremel 3D45 extruder settings inside of Cura&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21979" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2023-05-23T16:42:28.650" LastActivityDate="2023-05-23T16:42:28.650" Title="Why Cura refuse to slice this object?" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|3d-models|dremel-3d45|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="18" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20984" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-05-22T10:50:15.713" Score="2" ViewCount="134" Body="&lt;p&gt;When the extruder on my 3D printer goes back and forward, it may pull some filament, unrolling the spool, and then return to a position that causes the filament to drop from the spool, which later causes a tangle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A perfect solution for this would be to pass the filament through &lt;em&gt;something&lt;/em&gt; that only lets it go one way, unrolling the spool, but doesn't let it back through.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have two ideas of how to achieve this, but they both seem overengineered:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;An extra stepper motor that is synced with the extruder&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A ratchet bearing with a couple of 3D printed rolls&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suppose my problem is commonly encountered, so maybe there's a simpler solution that I'm missing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="38408" LastActivityDate="2023-05-22T14:17:57.123" Title="Is there a simple device that lets filament through in one direction only?" Tags="|filament|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20987" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20984" CreationDate="2023-05-22T14:17:57.123" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;For the Prusa line of printers, there is a device known as the MMU in versions 2 and 3 to the best of my understanding. It operates by pulling in the desired color/material to the extruder/hot-end and then retracting it to provide for a color/material change. Operators of this device experience problems similar to yours.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are third-party creators who have designed models known as buffers. Using the search terms &amp;quot;mmu buffer&amp;quot; results in a number of options, most of which are overkill for your concerns.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/search?q=mmu%20buffer&amp;amp;page=1&amp;amp;type=things&amp;amp;sort=relevant&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Thingiverse search&lt;/a&gt; does present what is described as &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3810577&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Prusa MMU Mini Buffer MK2&lt;/a&gt; and shows a single filament device providing for &amp;quot;take-up&amp;quot; of the retracted filament.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0kvlX.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0kvlX.png&quot; alt=&quot;Mini Buffer&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;Image from linked site.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.printables.com/search/all?q=mmu%20buffer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Printables&lt;/a&gt; has a similar collection, most of which are also overkill, in my opinion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have experienced similar problems, especially with a new, full spool. I have also seen attachments to the axle of the spool holder that places a bar across the flanges of the spool, but am currently unable to locate such a model. My print attempt failed due to modifications I've made to the axle and the model has been binned.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally, I redirected the filament vertically downward on the back of the (enclosed) printer, through a loop of PTFE tubing and upward again to the filament entry point. When the retraction action took place, the filament was pushed rearward but not downward, nor upward, causing no effect on the spool. It's a hack job using cable ties to hold the PTFE tubing to the fan grilles but it works. Unfortunately no photos and it would have to be custom fit to your configuration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some of the MMU solutions incorporate a ramped axle holder on which the spool is pulled upward while filament is being extruded, then allowed to roll downward, returning the excess filament to the spool. Depending on your level of irritation, this may not be overkill, as it is a mechanically simple design and appropriately reliable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastActivityDate="2023-05-22T14:17:57.123" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20988" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-05-22T21:18:43.273" Score="1" ViewCount="89" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm continuing &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/20979/trying-to-print-separate-models-one-on-top-of-the-other-using-prusaslicer&quot;&gt;my previous question&lt;/a&gt; with another one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I managed to figure out how to tell the slicer to consider a Z Offset to be able to print on top of a previous print, but the prusa interface is confusing me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The model I want to print is 1.5 mm in height. The model I'm printing it on is 2.4 mm in height, so that's my Z Offset. Up to here it's okay. The issue is that when I import the model I want to print now, it shows its position in Z as 0.75. This makes no sense.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BqWpO.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BqWpO.png&quot; alt=&quot;the coordinates&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I checked the model on 3DBuilder to see if it had extra space under it for some reason, but it has none. Cura has no issue dropping the model on the buildplate but Prusa is showing this weird measurement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is Prusa measuring as the position on Z? I thought the position meant where the bottom of the model sits, and the platter visualization does show this, but the number does not, it should be 0.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4fdiA.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4fdiA.png&quot; alt=&quot;the platter&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;ETA: Using the cut function and cutting the model exactly at 0.75 solved the problem and it is now displaying at 0 on Z but it still makes no sense.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37870" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2023-05-22T21:28:30.350" LastActivityDate="2023-05-22T21:28:30.350" Title="What is PrusaSlicer showing as the world Z position?" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|z-axis|prusaslicer|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20990" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-05-24T10:17:52.960" Score="0" ViewCount="293" Body="&lt;p&gt;I replaced my Ender 3 by an Anycubic Vyper, the problem is that all the print have stringing. I tried all the night to change the retraction, change the temperature, but I can get a piece without stringing. By the way, I'm printing PLA, it's dry and I tried from 180 °C to 200 °C.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone have a Cura profile that works? Or anybody can explain to me what I missed to reach my goal?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="38441" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2023-05-24T10:38:00.637" LastActivityDate="2023-05-24T10:38:00.637" Title="Stringing problem with Anycubic Vyper" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|temperature|retraction|stringing|anycubic-vyper|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20991" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20563" CreationDate="2023-05-24T17:12:11.583" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I replaced the cable to the extruder and the extruder motor.&#xA;Now it works fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36652" LastActivityDate="2023-05-24T17:12:11.583" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20996" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21050" CreationDate="2023-05-29T02:57:57.827" Score="0" ViewCount="301" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently got a used Creator Pro printer, and I just did a few prints amounting to about 10 hours of total print time, with no issue. But suddenly, the extruder started jerking filament back and forth, not feeding. If I force the filament with my hand, it goes through the hot extruder easily, and when I do filament loading, this still happens. I disassembled the extruder to make sure the motor isn't stuck on anything, and even with nothing touching the shaft, it does this wiggling when I tell the printer to load the filament. I doubt the sequencing for the motor spontaneously changed after hours of printing. I pulled the cable and plugged it back in, same thing. The firmware is Sailfish if that matters. I'm beginning to suspect the stepper motor is toast, but I wanted to ask here first if anyone thinks it could be something else.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="38475" LastActivityDate="2023-06-13T13:53:44.910" Title="Extruder motor jerking back and forth" Tags="|extruder|stepper|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21000" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-05-30T11:04:53.463" Score="0" ViewCount="224" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got these strange vertical grooves on my print. They are, at some locations well feelable and at some locations they are completely gone. The printer is an Ender 5 Plus or based on it at least. I use a MicroSwiss Dual Gear Bowden extruder instead of the stock one. Are they from the extruder or from the belts? Or something completely different?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2zXcP.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2zXcP.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user31236" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2023-05-30T17:51:02.050" LastActivityDate="2024-02-24T20:07:10.807" Title="Vertical repeating pattern" Tags="|print-quality|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21001" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21000" CreationDate="2023-05-30T13:59:00.297" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are the patterns only visible on opposite sides of the print by any chance? If it is, the problem can be isolated to a specific axis (only X or Y axis in this case)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could start with the basic checks like belt tension or something else that came loose. maybe even worn out belts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've had some (for me at least) unexpected patterns on what should be smooth curves that turned out to be a setting in the export as mesh function in Fusion360. The resolution was set too low so the &lt;a href=&quot;https://all3dp.com/1/stl-file-format-3d-printing/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;STL triangles&lt;/a&gt; became visible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I doubt this last option is the problem in your case because the pattern should be visible all along the part so as mentioned before I would start with checking your X and Y axis&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16860" LastActivityDate="2023-05-30T13:59:00.297" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21002" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8515" CreationDate="2023-05-30T18:36:56.070" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Using stealth chopping and Klipper &amp;quot;interpolation&amp;quot; reduces torque (According to the Klipper configuration documentation). If you turn off both of these options for x and y steppers regardless of what firmware you are using, you may be able to reduce the current and get the same results (avoid layer shifting and get the same torque).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, see user77232's answer since your motors can likely operate rather hot and be within the normal operating range of the motors. If your current temperature is within range, you may be able to keep stealth chopping on and keep the current you are using. Regarding your concerns for plastic parts, the glass transition temperature of ABS is around 105 degrees C (&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.lorric.com/en/WhyLORRIC/Material/material-chemical-resistance-chart-ABS#:%7E:text=Acrylonitrile%20butadiene%20styrene%20(ABS)%20is,has%20no%20true%20melting%20point.&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.lorric.com/en/WhyLORRIC/Material/material-chemical-resistance-chart-ABS#:~:text=Acrylonitrile%20butadiene%20styrene%20(ABS)%20is,has%20no%20true%20melting%20point.&lt;/a&gt;) so you're probably OK on that front. If you're concerned that the temperature is higher than 80 C, consider getting a laser thermometer and check the temperature while the printer is operating (and after it has been going for a while).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="38488" LastActivityDate="2023-05-30T18:36:56.070" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21003" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-05-31T06:11:17.397" Score="1" ViewCount="57" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1VeN3.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Photo of DIY printer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1VeN3.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Photo of DIY printer&quot; title=&quot;Photo of DIY printer&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FH3GE.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Screenshot of Edit settings dialog&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FH3GE.png&quot; alt=&quot;Screenshot of Edit settings dialog&quot; title=&quot;Screenshot of Edit settings dialog&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am currently doing a DIY 3D printer using RAMPS1.4 and it works as I have tested all X, Y and Z axis including the extruder extruding filament. I have jogged all the axis using Pronterface Software. I am printing a simple solid cube (20 mm x 20 mm x 20 mm) and the cube G-code I generated from Slic3r is uploaded on google drive &lt;a href=&quot;https://drive.google.com/file/d/1JqmhIk2ULWwMpn9wOWrucyA2CcaFFkLO/view?usp=sharing&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem is when it is printing for like 5 seconds, the X- and Y-axis suddenly moves so much to the ends of the beams and I am unsure why, I believe is the G-code problem. I would really appreciate if anyone can give me some advice on this and what went wrong. I am so close to printing my first cube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I run G-code from Slic3r on the Pronterface software. The video on this problem is uploaded google drive &lt;a href=&quot;https://drive.google.com/file/d/1xy7j9eECDt4G1yaNsspTQWKhqa3kE73z/view?usp=sharing&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;, can just view without download. As you can see at the end of the video, the axis can move from one end to the other end and the beam is so long, how is it even possible? I have to switch off the power at the end to prevent damage to wheels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="38501" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2023-05-31T10:10:22.777" LastActivityDate="2023-05-31T10:10:22.777" Title="3D printer G-code problem" Tags="|print-quality|3d-design|diy-3d-printer|electronics|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21005" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-05-31T11:36:13.880" Score="0" ViewCount="18" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am using an MKS base V1.4 board, PCB MK3 dual-power heat bed, and Marlin 2.0.1. My printer does not recognize my heat bed. I cannot control it and I cannot even see the temp. Actually, my printer LCD shows nothing where it has to show the bed temp.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My bed is working fine when it's connected directly to a 12 V power supply.&#xA;Pin Definings on firmware are checked and fine. The thermistor is checked and fine. Bed solderings are checked and fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="38508" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2023-05-31T13:08:32.377" LastActivityDate="2023-05-31T13:08:32.377" Title="MKS Base V1.4 does not recognize my PCB MK3 heat bed" Tags="|marlin|firmware|heated-bed|thermistor|bed|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21006" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-05-31T15:27:28.450" Score="0" ViewCount="714" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm printing a large print model, but it fails when I use a 1 mm nozzle. When I use the 0.4 mm nozzle, it works fine. What can cause a print to work with a smaller nozzle?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm using Cura as my slicer and Neptune 3 Pro (Klipper) as my printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are screenshots of my Cura settings, 3D model, and one of many failed prints:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/39NQf.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/39NQf.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vshiH.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vshiH.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://photos.app.goo.gl/M1xSF5hEZ3zaiKti8&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://photos.app.goo.gl/M1xSF5hEZ3zaiKti8&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="38514" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2023-06-01T13:15:54.180" LastActivityDate="2023-06-01T13:15:54.180" Title="Printing with 1 mm nozzle keeps failing" Tags="|print-quality|nozzle|elegoo-neptune-3|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21007" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21006" CreationDate="2023-05-31T18:47:05.513" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;A cursory inspection of your settings shows that you are printing at 75 mm/s and 210 ℃.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you were printing with a 0.4 mm nozzle and a 0.2 mm layer height, the flow rate will be 75 x 0.4 x 0.2 = 6 mm&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt;/s, which is well within the capabilities of a stock MK8 hot end.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, if you print with a 1 mm nozzle and 0.7 mm layer height, the flow rate will be 75 x 1.0 x 0.7 = 52.5 mm&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt;/s, which is well outside a stock hot end's capabilities.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could try raising the printing temperature and lowering the printing speed, but frankly, a 1 mm nozzle is not really suitable for most FDM printers. A 0.6 mm nozzle should be eminently usable, and you may be able to get away with a 0.8 mm nozzle, if you are prepared to use lower printing speeds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3953" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2023-06-01T13:14:57.703" LastActivityDate="2023-06-01T13:14:57.703" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21008" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20350" CreationDate="2023-06-01T12:46:14.623" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you suspect the firmware isolate it by trying a different build.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Try the MRisCoc professional firmware. It is a fork of Marlin 2 with many extra features. If your machine is unmodified - no BLTouch etc - the current version is&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/mriscoc/Ender3V2S1/releases/download/20230522/Ender3V2-422-MM-MPC-20230522B.bin&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://github.com/mriscoc/Ender3V2S1/releases/download/20230522/Ender3V2-422-MM-MPC-20230522B.bin&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="38528" LastEditorUserId="38528" LastEditDate="2023-06-01T14:11:02.910" LastActivityDate="2023-06-01T14:11:02.910" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21009" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21010" CreationDate="2023-06-01T18:49:40.480" Score="1" ViewCount="1085" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am following the &lt;a href=&quot;https://help.prusa3d.com/article/octoprint-configuration-and-install_2182&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;tutorial of Prusa&lt;/a&gt; for using Octoprint with my Prusa i3 MK3. I have a Raspbery Pi Zero and I'm using the built-in GPIO pins, not an USB connection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wifi works. I can reach the Raspberry via HTTP and SSH&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I have enabled [RPi Port] via the i3 menu&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But in the Octoprint website, there's no serial port to select. It just shows &amp;quot;AUTO&amp;quot; and after a while it displays an error message that there's no Serial port found.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Via SSH I can find quite some devices which look like Serial:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;code&gt;/dev/serial1&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;code&gt;/dev/tty#&lt;/code&gt;, where # is a number&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;code&gt;/dev/ttyAMA0&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;code&gt;/dev/ttyprintk&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I haven't had any issues with Serial connection since 2019 and despite all warnings, the Pi Zero did a great job. However, after the last Octoprint update, Octoprint didn't come up any more, so I did a reinstall from scratch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm using OctoPrint 1.9.0&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1570" LastActivityDate="2023-11-17T13:19:33.277" Title="Octoprint does not detect Serial port of RPi zero" Tags="|prusa-i3|octoprint|serial-connection|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21010" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21009" CreationDate="2023-06-01T18:49:40.480" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Neither the &lt;a href=&quot;https://help.prusa3d.com/article/octoprint-configuration-and-install_2182&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;tutorial of Prusa&lt;/a&gt; nor the &lt;a href=&quot;https://octoprint.org/download/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Octoprint setup instructions&lt;/a&gt; mention this. But it's common Raspberry Pi knowledge, for everyone how experiments with the RPi.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Serial interface that works over GPIO needs to be activated via&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;sudo raspi-config&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the menu, go to &amp;quot;Interface Options&amp;quot; (3), then &amp;quot;Serial Port&amp;quot; (I6). Answer &amp;quot;No&amp;quot; for the login shell and &amp;quot;Yes&amp;quot; for the Serial port hardware. After that, reboot your Raspberry when being asked.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Octoprint web interface should then detect &lt;code&gt;/dev/ttyS0&lt;/code&gt; and be able to connect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1570" LastActivityDate="2023-06-01T18:49:40.480" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21012" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21014" CreationDate="2023-06-03T16:18:02.293" Score="0" ViewCount="2787" Body="&lt;p&gt;When calibrating my printer and configuring my slicer there are many different values that can affect the final distance between the print bed and the nozzle for the first layer. I'm trying to figure out where I should be making different adjustments. I'm having some first-layer issues, and I'm trying to get my layer height configured correctly to make changing materials and print settings easier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Intuitively it seems like I should be configuring the printer so that when Z = 0 the nozzle is just touching the bed and leaving the height of the first layer entirely up to the slicer. That way the slicer can accurately calculate the first layer height. But a lot of the instructions online imply that Z = 0 is calibrated slightly above the bed (the thickness of the paper). If I were setting zero on a milling machine I'd subtract the thickness of the feeler gauge to get a 'true zero' to the table.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some of the Marlin calibration features also seem to assume that Z is configured somewhat high. For instance when leveling the bed manually or when editing a UBL mesh it homes the printer and then moves to each point to verify the bed height, but it doesn't seem to account for the thickness of the feeler gauge. This makes me think that the feeler gauge height is expected to be built into the probe Z-offset. I'm using a 0.2 mm metal gauge as it's more repeatable than paper. If I have my Z-offset set to 'true zero' I can work around this by homing the bed to my feeler gauge and then calibrating.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as I can tell the following values can affect the final Z height of the first layer:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The Marlin probe Z-offset value. If this value is accurate then Z = 0 should have the nozzle just touch the bed. If this value is set to the probe/nozzle offset plus the feeler gauge height then when the slicer asks for 0.3 mm it will get 0.3 mm + gauge height.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If not using an ABL printer:&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The gantry level&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The Z limit switch position&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The bed level screws&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The UBL mesh values. Not only does the mesh conform to the shape of the bed, but I think that it also acts globally on the Z-offset. If I were to bias all of the values in the mesh by the same amount it should effectively have the same effect as adjusting the Z-offset. I think that this could happen when manually tuning a mesh if the Z-offset is incorrect. Tuning the mesh this way would 'hide' the incorrect Z-offset, but require that the error be replicated when the Z-offset needs to be reset (for instance after a nozzle change). This seems to imply that the UBL mesh value at the initial probe point (used when homing) should always be 0 to prevent confounding it with the Z-offset value.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The Marlin probe XY offset values seem like they could also have an effect on nozzle/bed distance since they will affect where the UBL mesh is sampled for a given nozzle position. I don't know if these values are used when generating the mesh or when reading it. I've measured these values using a dot on a piece of paper, but I'm worried I might have the sign wrong.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The slicer's initial layer height. Since the slicer 'knows' about this height it uses it to calculate the amount of filament to extrude to create a perfect line of the specified width and height. This setting will vary for different prints and materials.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The slicer initial layer offset value (&lt;strong&gt;Z Offset&lt;/strong&gt; in Cura). This is where it seems to make the most sense to introduce any initial layer 'squish' since it is configurable per print (as opposed to the Marlin &lt;strong&gt;Z Offset&lt;/strong&gt; which stays with the printer). I could also add the squish by adjusting the initial layer flow multiplier to extrude a bit more filament than calculated by the slicer.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For reference, I have a Sovol SV01, with a BLTouch and Marlin 2.0.5.3. My pre-calibration process is as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Power up the motors and measure the height of each side of the gantry from the printer frame.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Turn one of the Z-axis lead screws until both sides sides of the gantry are the same height.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Home the printer.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Run the Marlin &amp;quot;level corners&amp;quot; wizard. I use a 0.2 mm steel feeler gauge, and go through the corners until they all have the same amount of friction (the centre of the bed is a bit loose now, so the center is slightly concave).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Home the printer.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Measure the distance to the bed using the feeler gauge.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Adjust the 'Z-offset' value to get a distance of 0.2 mm. This will mean that the surface of the bed is at Z = 0.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Go back to 5 until no adjustments are needed.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Heat up the bed and the hotend (not necessary yet, but can't hurt).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use the Marlin assistant to generate a 'Cold Mesh' UBL mesh.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Save the mesh.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="38563" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2023-06-03T17:09:01.853" LastActivityDate="2023-06-04T21:14:39.827" Title="Should I calibrate Z-offset so that Z = 0 has the nozzle touching the bed?" Tags="|slicing|z-axis|bltouch|calibration|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21014" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21012" CreationDate="2023-06-04T07:13:31.620" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;No&lt;/strong&gt;, you should not, unless you adapt your slicer settings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/7265&quot;&gt;This answers&lt;/a&gt; explains the Z-offset. If your nozzle is at true Z=0 when touching the bed, then you need to find out all the property's in your slicer that adjust for the paper thickness. E.g. first layer is slightly overextruded and lines are usually wider, with your nozzle at the true zero, these kind of aids need to be changed else you will get too much flow in the first layer, pressure will build up and this will not help you to get a perfect first layer. This may result in rippling, balling up of filament, etcetera.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Commonly used printing paper is about &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/6604&quot;&gt;0.1 mm&lt;/a&gt;, this is pretty negligible on most prints you will print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But, &lt;strong&gt;yes you can&lt;/strong&gt;, could also answer your question, this may prove to give you additional work to get your prints printing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2023-06-04T21:14:39.827" LastActivityDate="2023-06-04T21:14:39.827" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21015" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-06-04T16:31:15.500" Score="0" ViewCount="59" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 3D printer that when I try and heat the hot bed the printer shuts down and restarts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is an IDEX printer, when I heat the nozzles, they heat up fine, when I move the X-axis it moves fine. Z is fine and Y is fine as well, so I eliminated the steppers having a short or nozzles. The company sent me a new hot bed, I plugged it in and it did the same same exact thing. No viable burn marks on any component on the controller board that I can see. Any ideas where to go from here? I want to say it is the power supply but I do not know how to check this. I have some basic electrical knowledge but have now gotten in deeper then my knowledge. The wires have all been checked for resistance and show good results. Any ideas or links would be appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="38574" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2023-06-04T21:21:04.227" LastActivityDate="2023-06-04T21:21:04.227" Title="3D printer restarts itself" Tags="|diy-3d-printer|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21016" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10276" CreationDate="2023-06-04T17:41:11.703" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had the same problem, through multiple models and different brands of PLA. I fixed it by setting the Material &amp;quot;Wall Flow&amp;quot; parameter (both inner and outer wall) to 102%.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: The outside dimension is still accurate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="38577" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2023-10-04T09:58:56.523" LastActivityDate="2023-10-04T09:58:56.523" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21017" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21018" CreationDate="2023-06-04T18:20:38.660" Score="2" ViewCount="154" Body="&lt;p&gt;Being a newbie in 3D printing, I have some trouble with my prints. After removing wiggle room from the X axis and the bed, there are deformities even on simple prints. The first layer turns out okay-ish but there seems to be some stringing that makes the print deviate consisently when there is a turn. How could I improve?&#xA;My setup:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Ender 3 V2 - stock printing bed, extruder/nozzles&#xA;Firmware: mriscoc&#xA;Auto bed leveling (BL touch) - Z offset -2.18mm&#xA;Slicer: Cura - 0.2mm layers, 20% infill&#xA;Material: PLA - 200C nozzle, 60C printing bed.&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Gcode of the XYZ cube:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;;FLAVOR:Marlin&#xA;;Layer height: 0.2&#xA;;Generated with Cura_SteamEngine 5.3.0&#xA;M140 S50&#xA;M105&#xA;M190 S50&#xA;M104 S200&#xA;M105&#xA;M109 S200&#xA;M82 ;absolute extrusion mode&#xA;; Ender 3 Custom Start G-code&#xA;G92 E0 ; Reset Extruder&#xA;G28 ; Home all axes&#xA;M420 S1 ; Use mesh level stored&#xA;G1 Z2.0 F3000 ; Move Z Axis up little to prevent scratching of Heat Bed&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sample output (XYZ cube):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6fIiw.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6fIiw.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;X face&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3Rgg2.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3Rgg2.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Y face&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lWxzk.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lWxzk.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Z face&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3LPvz.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3LPvz.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Side view&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="38576" LastEditorUserId="36802" LastEditDate="2023-11-23T13:21:56.447" LastActivityDate="2023-11-23T13:21:56.447" Title="How do I fix deformities when printing on my Ender 3 V2?" Tags="|creality-ender-3|print-quality|pla|stringing|mriscoc|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21018" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21017" CreationDate="2023-06-04T19:48:33.617" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Update: I identified the issue as a lack of tension in the X and Y timing belts. After tightening the belts, the prints are much smoother !&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="38576" LastActivityDate="2023-06-04T19:48:33.617" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21019" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21020" CreationDate="2023-06-04T22:19:47.263" Score="8" ViewCount="3053" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is 3D printing progress (the one you check on the display of a 3D printer) linear or not?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By linear I mean that equal differences in percentual progress will take the same clock time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37767" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2023-06-05T08:07:49.360" LastActivityDate="2023-06-06T12:04:42.360" Title="Is 3D printing progress linear?" Tags="|display|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21020" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21019" CreationDate="2023-06-05T00:59:18.350" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are lots of ways in which one could interpret this question, but in pretty much all senses I would say no, the progress is not &amp;quot;linear&amp;quot;, unless you're talking about a progress bar whose values were computed based on a detailed computation to predict times.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Progress is not linear because different moves the printer makes take different amounts of time. Some may be performed fast, others slow. Even if you requested everything (travel, perimeters, infill, solid fill, etc.) to take place at the same speed, they would still take different amounts of time, because physics. Just like your car doesn't immediately start and stay at 65 MPH just because the highway speed limit is 65, the printer does not immediately start and stay at the requested speed. It has to speed up and slow down gradually (accelerate/decelerate), both from stops and when entering/leaving curves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a result, portions of the print with lots of detail take &lt;strong&gt;a lot&lt;/strong&gt; longer than portions with mostly long, straight or almost-straight lines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On top of that, for the print process itself to look &amp;quot;perceptually linear&amp;quot;, you'd need a similar amount of time to be spent in each layer. However, some layers take a lot more time just by virtue of the amount of material in the, even if detail weren't an issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2023-06-05T00:59:18.350" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21021" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21019" CreationDate="2023-06-05T10:08:09.313" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think for all practical purposes, the time can be considered linear, yes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sure, there are some differences in print speed depending on the shape of the layer (e.g. ratio of infill, different disconnected surfaces, etc. etc.), but those are all independent of what I believe the real question here is. Assume that one has an object that is very wide at the bottom, but very thin at the top. One could assume that the progressbar is based on the height of the print. In that case, the print would of course not be linear, since the top layers would be printed much faster.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is not the case, since the percentage is normally calculated on the number of gcode instructions done and to be done. So aside from minor differences in speed of different instructions, it would be near-linear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only exception to this would be the heating-up. For most slicers this is not counted into the prediction of time, and is also a very non-linear part of the print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;OP's comment under @R.. GitHub STOP HELPING ICE's answer indicates that this this is the question he really had. The progressbar being stuck for long periods of time cannot be explained by difference in speeds of certain regions in the model.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14872" LastActivityDate="2023-06-05T10:08:09.313" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21022" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-06-05T12:00:49.947" Score="1" ViewCount="49" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 3-pin (red, black, white) fan, and I need to cool my RAMPS 1.6 board with this fan. How can I connect the fan to the board and turn it on/off?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="38461" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2023-06-05T13:24:09.017" LastActivityDate="2023-06-05T13:24:09.017" Title="How can I connect a 3-pin fan to RAMPS 1.6?" Tags="|ramps-1.6|fans|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21025" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21019" CreationDate="2023-06-05T16:25:53.890" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are using a resin DLP 3D printer. (The kind that projects the entire mask in one instance).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then 3D printing progress is linear (except for the first layers which are cured for longer).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And the depends on the height of your 3D print, not on its complexity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="38593" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2023-06-05T20:28:05.067" LastActivityDate="2023-06-05T20:28:05.067" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21029" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21019" CreationDate="2023-06-06T12:04:42.360" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Short answer: &lt;strong&gt;Usually not.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Longer answer: &lt;strong&gt;Depends on the printer.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many consumer grade 3D printers show progress by how many layers are printed in relation to how many layers in total. But some layers take a lot longer than other layers, so it's just an approximation, at best.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some higher tier 3D printers calculate differently, and as a result the progress indicator is more precise.&#xA;For example, the current models of Bambu Lab printers are pretty good at showing precise progress on the display. I think most resin printers are fairly accurate as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think that if we look back at this question in 5 years or so, the answer should probably be changed to: &amp;quot;Yes, usually&amp;quot;, since printers get better and better each year.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1472" LastActivityDate="2023-06-06T12:04:42.360" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21030" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18715" CreationDate="2023-06-06T22:58:45.447" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know this is an old post, but I think I figured out the answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had the EXACT SAME PROBLEM TODAY while trying to compile custom Marlin firmware (version 2.1.2.1) for the same exact setup as you have. My BLtouch probe is plugged into the dedicated probe header on the mainboard, and the Z endstop switch is also still plugged in. The bed probe wouldn't trigger while homing or bed leveling, and the nozzle would plow straight down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The issue is in the firmware. The line &lt;code&gt;#define Z_MIN_PROBE_USES_Z_MIN_ENDSTOP_PIN&lt;/code&gt; was not commented out in my &lt;code&gt;Configuration.h&lt;/code&gt;. The printer was expecting an interrupt from the Z endstop switch. It wasn't looking for an interrupt from the bed probe, so the probe triggering wouldn't do anything, and it continued to move. Eventually, the nozzle would hit the bed. If you have this issue still, recompile your firmware with this line commented out in your &lt;code&gt;Configuration.h&lt;/code&gt;, at around line 1280.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please let me know if this works for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="38615" LastEditorUserId="38615" LastEditDate="2023-06-06T23:00:04.730" LastActivityDate="2023-06-06T23:00:04.730" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21032" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21035" CreationDate="2023-06-08T00:56:23.220" Score="8" ViewCount="1214" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have PrintrBot Simple Metal and over the course of today's use, I managed to get a piece of filament stuck in the hotend, just below the extruder gear. There's not really much to grab at, and my tweezers aren't that strong. How should I go about getting the filament out of the hotend? If it matters, I'm using &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.matterhackers.com/store/l/gray-mh-build-series-pla-filament-175mm-1kg/sk/M-PL0-Q8ZD&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;1.75mm MH Build Series PLA&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Though I solved my problem, I would still like for members of the 3D community to share solutions that work for them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="38544" LastEditorUserId="38544" LastEditDate="2023-06-08T19:05:34.613" LastActivityDate="2023-06-08T19:05:34.613" Title="How do I remove filament from the hotend of a direct-drive printer?" Tags="|hotend|filament-jam|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21033" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21032" CreationDate="2023-06-08T02:11:30.230" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ok, so I finally figured out a way to get it out:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I heated the hotend to the melting temp. of the filament, and then used another piece of filament to push it through. Just make sure that the other piece of filament is connected to the spool you want to print from :).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks to @Trish for teaching me that this is called a purge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="38544" LastEditorUserId="38544" LastEditDate="2023-06-08T16:15:43.420" LastActivityDate="2023-06-08T16:15:43.420" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21035" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21032" CreationDate="2023-06-08T09:45:03.307" Score="6" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Cold Pull&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The technic is nigh the same as for a bowden machine:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do &lt;strong&gt;NOT&lt;/strong&gt; cut the filament!&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;First heat the hotend to your filament's print temperature or about 20 °C lower&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Then pull at the filament, possibly using a pair of grooved tongues.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to get rid of residue, especially after printing a high-temperature material, you might want to purge the nozzle too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;But the filament is short...&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the filament is too short already, purging it is the solution:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;try to cut the filament to just after the extruder gear&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Heat the hotend to printing temperature of the stuck filament&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;insert any other filament that has the same or lower melting temperature behind and (using pliers) make sure that it will line up with the filament path.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Push the stuck filament through.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Best perform a purge now.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Purging&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I mentioned above purging. Purging is just pushing &lt;em&gt;extra&lt;/em&gt; filament through. As it melts and gets pushed out with extra force, it takes with it all the residue and old filament. You pretty much purge the old material from the system. It might be easier for you to use a different color, as then you can see when you have purged the previous filament fully.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you still need to clean more or want to swap the nozzle, you can let the hotend cool down to about 20 °C below the printing temperature of your now-loaded filament and return to a cold pull.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I generally have good enough success by performing a cold pull and then purging some centimeters more after the filament is of even color.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Nozzle geometry warning&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Core-Heating nozzles are very complex and doing a cold pull in them is very hard to impossible. It is best to not cold-pull and instead just purge forward if possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2023-06-08T16:21:52.980" LastActivityDate="2023-06-08T16:21:52.980" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21036" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20498" CreationDate="2023-06-08T14:32:20.967" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The issue seems to be mostly left/right.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The cause is a twisted X extrusion or rail together with a probe which has a X and Y offset compared to the nozzle, therefore it reads wrong values.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/issues/22791&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/issues/22791&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you cannot correct the mesh manually, try to straighten the axis, or add a counterweight behind the axis as heavy as the toolhead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2338" LastActivityDate="2023-06-08T14:32:20.967" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21037" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21040" CreationDate="2023-06-09T12:19:18.557" Score="1" ViewCount="134" Body="&lt;p&gt;I designed some line art figure in Blender using several Bezier Curves, converted them all to Meshes, joined them to one Mesh and converted it back to a Curve.&#xA;Then I extracted the curve and set a depth and at the end I saved it as a STL file.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now in Cura (5.2.2.2) using the standard settings I have the following struggle:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When opening up the STL everything seems normal and as designed:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zEVzf.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Before slicing&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zEVzf.png&quot; alt=&quot;Before slicing&quot; title=&quot;Before slicing&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But after slicing some lines/walls are ignored:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qSOll.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;After slicing&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qSOll.png&quot; alt=&quot;After slicing&quot; title=&quot;After slicing&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Judging by the preview visualization and time those inner structures disappear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do you know how to correct by tweaking the Cura settings?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think the problem comes from the Blender Project due to the multiple converting and joining process but maybe I can save the current model instead of starting over.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="34370" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2023-06-09T14:05:55.797" LastActivityDate="2023-06-10T14:06:05.053" Title="Missing walls in Cura after slicing" Tags="|creality-ender-3|ultimaker-cura|blender|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21039" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-06-10T09:57:32.437" Score="0" ViewCount="65" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WCwsq.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WCwsq.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am trying to configure an Ultimaker 2 (go) with Marlin. My current hotend is a 1.75 mm E3D V6 (still bowden), and the extruder fan uses J19 24V, as circled in green in the picture. Whenever I turn on the printer, the extruder fan keeps running no matter what, and regardless of the temperature. This is kind of annoying, as I want to leave the printer on along with setting it up with Octoprint. So, in Marlin, I want to find the pin number so I can configure it as a proper extruder fan, so it isn't running constantly. I tried M43, but it didn't list J19.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Just plain Marlin with config, not the specific Ultimaker-specific marlin )&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37597" LastActivityDate="2023-06-10T09:57:32.437" Title="J19 Pin on Ultimaker 2 Mainboard Marlin Config" Tags="|marlin|ultimaker-2|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21040" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21037" CreationDate="2023-06-10T14:06:05.053" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;As suspected the error came from the Blender project. I tried using only Bezier curves and after joining and extruding the exported STL file behaves as expected.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="34370" LastActivityDate="2023-06-10T14:06:05.053" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21042" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-06-11T15:32:20.887" Score="1" ViewCount="157" Body="&lt;p&gt;Basically I am working on automating the generation of upper and lower shells of device enclosures. These enclosures have a rather irregular shape that was generated e.g. with &lt;code&gt;hull()&lt;/code&gt;. I currently have a hollow enclosure object that I would like to split into an upper and a lower half in order to print them on a 3D printer. This is easily done by intersecting / diffing them with a large &lt;code&gt;cube&lt;/code&gt; object. But I would like to also have a lid at the split position so both parts have a mechanically solid fit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My approach would currently be to get the 2D surface of the cut plane and modify it to get an outer part for one shell and an inner part for the other shell. But I do not know how to get this surface object in the first step of the process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas how to do this in OpenSCAD? Or even better proposals?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A possible workaround is as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I model the inner hollow structure by combining the necessary room for the components. The enclosure is constructed by applying &lt;code&gt;minkowski() { inner(); sphere(r=wallThickness); }&lt;/code&gt; to it. The overlapping lid parts are then generated by applying the Minkowski operation with a sphere half the wall thickness in size. Problem is, this creates a non-vertical overlap as you can see in the example by setting &lt;code&gt;cutHeight = 10&lt;/code&gt; instead of &lt;code&gt;-20&lt;/code&gt;. I know that having a vertical lid (i.e. perpendicular to the cut plane) may on the other hand lead to problems when the wall thickness is too thin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$fn=32;&#xA;wallThickness = 5;&#xA;lidHeight = 5;&#xA;cutHeight = -20;    // or 10&#xA;&#xA;module inner()&#xA;{&#xA;    translate([0,0, cutHeight])&#xA;    hull() { // example only, may be an arbitrarily irregular shape&#xA;        translate([0, 0, 20]) sphere(40); &#xA;        translate([20, 20, -10]) cube(50,center=true);&#xA;    }&#xA;}&#xA;&#xA;module shell(wall)&#xA;{&#xA;    minkowski() {&#xA;        inner();&#xA;        sphere(wall);&#xA;    }&#xA;}&#xA;&#xA;module lower_enclosure()&#xA;{&#xA;    union() {&#xA;        intersection() {&#xA;            difference() {&#xA;                shell(wallThickness);&#xA;                shell(0);&#xA;            }&#xA;            translate([0,0,-500]) cube(1000, center=true);&#xA;        }&#xA;        intersection() {&#xA;            difference() {&#xA;                shell(wallThickness/2);&#xA;                shell(0);&#xA;            }&#xA;            translate([0,0,-500 + lidHeight]) cube(1000, center=true);&#xA;        }&#xA;    }&#xA;}&#xA;&#xA;module upper_enclosure()&#xA;{&#xA;    rotate([180,0,0]) &#xA;    union() {&#xA;        intersection() {&#xA;            difference() {&#xA;                shell(wallThickness);&#xA;                shell(0);&#xA;            }&#xA;            translate([0,0,500]) cube(1000, center=true);&#xA;        }&#xA;        intersection() {&#xA;            difference() {&#xA;                shell(wallThickness);&#xA;                shell(wallThickness/2);&#xA;            }&#xA;            translate([0,0,500 - lidHeight]) cube(1000, center=true);&#xA;        }&#xA;    }&#xA;}&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;lower_enclosure();&#xA;translate([0,110,0]) upper_shell();&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="38697" LastEditorUserId="38697" LastEditDate="2023-06-12T16:13:08.950" LastActivityDate="2023-12-20T15:13:19.440" Title="Get 2D object from a 3D object's face in OpenSCAD" Tags="|openscad|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21043" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21094" CreationDate="2023-06-11T20:23:51.587" Score="2" ViewCount="1570" Body="&lt;p&gt;Recently, I've been noticing what looks like under extrusion. My first thought was a clogged nozzle, but it only occurs in some places:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1VvYB.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1VvYB.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;(Photo of the issue)&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My printer is a PrintrBot Simple Metal, using &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.matterhackers.com/store/l/gray-mh-build-series-pla-filament-175mm-1kg/sk/M-PL0-Q8ZD&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;MH Build Series 1.75 mm PLA&lt;/a&gt; and the model was sliced with Cura 5.1.0. What could be causing this, and how should I fix it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Slicer settings:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;infill density 10 % (pattern: cubic)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;layer height: 0.2 mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;print speed: 50 mm/s (travel: 150 mm/s)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;print temp: 200 °C (bed: 0 °C)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;retraction: enabled (Z-hop: disabled)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;cooling: enabled (fan speed: 100 %)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not printing faster than usual, and I watched some of this print print, and there were no obvious issues like a clicking extruder. I find it strange that it occurred regularly along the edge of one piece, but the piece next to it was perfect. It seems to occur around two sharp corners. The other piece didn't have those sharp corners.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another doubtful theory by me:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've had some issues with a loose plug recently. Could this be causing a drop in temperature?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="38544" LastEditorUserId="38544" LastEditDate="2023-06-22T04:16:27.980" LastActivityDate="2023-06-23T14:14:20.633" Title="Under-extrusion in Certain Locations" Tags="|print-quality|underextrusion|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21044" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-06-12T22:14:28.030" Score="1" ViewCount="75" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am trying to print several parts on my Elegoo Mars 3. When I support them, the parts come out fine. On the other hand, when not using supports (with 2 mm walls), a horizontal line appears in the same place and I don't understand why it appears. Could someone help me solve this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8Eo1e.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Photo of a resin printed model without supports and a horizontal line appears&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8Eo1e.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Photo of a resin printed model without supports and a horizontal line appears&quot; title=&quot;Photo of a resin printed model without supports and a horizontal line appears&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mLHAk.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Photo of a resin printed model with supports and no horizontal line is present&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mLHAk.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Photo of a resin printed model with supports and no horizontal line is present&quot; title=&quot;Photo of a resin printed model with supports and no horizontal line is present&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="38717" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2023-06-12T22:53:48.430" LastActivityDate="2023-06-12T22:53:48.430" Title="Why do these horizontal lines appear when I don't use supports?" Tags="|print-quality|print-preparation|elegoo-mars|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21046" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20728" CreationDate="2023-06-13T03:54:19.870" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can send the &lt;code&gt;M86&lt;/code&gt; command to your Prusa printer to change the safety timer. For example, to set the timer to disable heating after four hours, you could send &lt;code&gt;M86 S14400&lt;/code&gt;. The relevant documentation is on the &lt;a href=&quot;https://help.prusa3d.com/article/prusa-specific-g-codes_112173#m-commands&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Prusa-specific G-Codes&lt;/a&gt; page.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="38719" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2023-06-13T04:16:46.850" LastActivityDate="2023-06-13T04:16:46.850" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21050" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20996" CreationDate="2023-06-13T13:53:44.910" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Plug the extruder cable into one of the other motors and send a filament feed signal.&#xA;If the problem manifests the same, then you can probably rule out the motor as the culprit. You could have a bad cable or a bad controller board. To rule out a bad cable you'd just swap out the cable from the board to the extruder.&#xA;However, if the problem doesn't recur, then the motor might be bad. It might also be mounted poorly. You may be able to remove it from it's mounting and test if the problem persists.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="38731" LastActivityDate="2023-06-13T13:53:44.910" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21051" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-06-13T16:44:44.823" Score="0" ViewCount="335" Body="&lt;p&gt;The limit switch of the x axis on my Ender 3 v2 is not working sometimes. The gantry hits the switch but the motor does not stop. Restarting the printer fixes the issue and prints normally. Next time you restart the printer the problem reappears.&#xA;I have changed the switch and the cables with brand new and the problem still remains.&#xA;This problem occurs 8/10 times I print and always goes away with restarting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="38735" LastActivityDate="2023-07-24T00:23:24.037" Title="Ender 3 v2 X limit switch not working sometimes" Tags="|creality-ender-3|endstop|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21052" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-06-13T18:00:35.110" Score="1" ViewCount="2386" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am running SKR Mini E3V3 on my Ender 3 Pro with CR Touch. I'd like to stop the bed leveling before every print and to use the stored Mesh (UBL). Where and how do I do this? Do I need to do it in the firmware and Cura?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="38736" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2023-06-13T22:05:43.320" LastActivityDate="2023-06-14T06:19:45.200" Title="Disabling bed level before each print" Tags="|bed-leveling|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21053" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4381" CreationDate="2023-06-13T18:54:06.073" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You cannot use &lt;code&gt;M92 E-&lt;/code&gt; on Marlin (anymore).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The right solution nowadays is taking the wires out of the plug of the stepper motor connector using a prying tool and switching them all totally the flipped way around. That way the motor gets the signals the other way round.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="38737" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2023-06-13T19:16:25.353" LastActivityDate="2023-06-13T19:16:25.353" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21054" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-06-13T20:26:23.260" Score="0" ViewCount="109" Body="&lt;p&gt;My relatively new Ender 3 S1 Pro with default extruder started to under extrude and jam on some layers. When it happens I can hear extruder skipping/clicking noises. I printed same g-code multiple times and happened on different layers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I replaced the nozzle &lt;em&gt;(default 0.4)&lt;/em&gt; with the new one &lt;em&gt;(same size/type, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.creality3dofficial.eu/products/24pcs-brass-mk8-nozzle-print-head-for-cr-10-ender-series&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;from Ender's 24Pcs Brass Mk8 pack&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/em&gt;, but got similar results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I removed and checked the nozzle and throat, but didn't see anything abnormal, there was no filament between the nozzle and the throat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried using different SD cards, tried different extruder temperatures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm running default latest firmware from Ender. I haven't performed any PID tunes or any other firmware changes, I've just changed the nozzles and adjusted screw/belt/roller tensions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The models were sliced on Cura v5.3.0 on Mac and Windows versions &lt;em&gt;(default Ender S1 Pro profile)&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't think it's a filament or slicer issue as my Tronxy CRUX1 printed same model with the same filament just fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What could be the main causes for such jams/under extrusion?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Under extrusion example:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fvezS.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fvezS.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Under extrusion example&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Nozzle and throat:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fKAKR.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fKAKR.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qqJgR.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qqJgR.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="38738" LastEditorUserId="38738" LastEditDate="2023-06-13T20:28:11.943" LastActivityDate="2023-06-13T20:28:11.943" Title="Ender 3 S1 Pro extruding/jamming on random layers" Tags="|underextrusion|ender3|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21055" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21052" CreationDate="2023-06-13T22:04:10.373" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes you can disable the bed leveling procedure, just make sure to comment out the &lt;code&gt;G29&lt;/code&gt; G-code and put the &lt;code&gt;M420 S&lt;/code&gt; in after &lt;code&gt;G28&lt;/code&gt; in your start G-code.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the &lt;a href=&quot;https://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M420.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Marlin documentation&lt;/a&gt; you can read:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Get and/or set bed leveling state. For mesh-based leveling systems use Z parameter to set the Z Fade Height.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With &lt;code&gt;AUTO_BED_LEVELING_UBL&lt;/code&gt; you can use L to load a mesh from EEPROM.&#xA;Option &lt;code&gt;L&lt;/code&gt; followed by an integer (&lt;code&gt;M420 L&amp;lt;int&amp;gt;&lt;/code&gt;) -&amp;gt; Load mesh from EEPROM index (Requires &lt;code&gt;AUTO_BED_LEVELING_UBL&lt;/code&gt; and &lt;code&gt;EEPROM_SETTINGS&lt;/code&gt; defined in firmware)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also note that&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;code&gt;G28&lt;/code&gt; disables bed leveling. Follow with &lt;code&gt;M420 S&lt;/code&gt; to turn leveling on, or use &lt;code&gt;RESTORE_LEVELING_AFTER_G28&lt;/code&gt; to automatically keep leveling on after &lt;code&gt;G28&lt;/code&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This implies that if &lt;code&gt;RESTORE_LEVELING_AFTER_G28&lt;/code&gt; is set in your firmware, you do not need the &lt;code&gt;M420 S&lt;/code&gt; command.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can test this by removing &lt;code&gt;G29&lt;/code&gt; in a current print, if you don't see the Z stepper move during the first layer, the &lt;code&gt;RESTORE_LEVELING_AFTER_G28&lt;/code&gt; is not defined in firmware and you will need to use the &lt;code&gt;M420 S&lt;/code&gt; command in your start G-code directly after &lt;code&gt;G28&lt;/code&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2023-06-14T06:19:45.200" LastActivityDate="2023-06-14T06:19:45.200" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21056" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-06-14T19:16:45.603" Score="3" ViewCount="77" Body="&lt;p&gt;As you can see, no stringing! But the base of each tower is deformed, non-circular, and extremely weak. The tops of the towers are perfectly circular, so I don't believe it is entirely an X, Y axis issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is PLA at ~195 °C with a 64 °C bed on a QIDI X-MAX. I have tried this with multiple copies of the print on the bed which does not solve the problem, so I don't believe it is a layer-cooling issue. Also tried different temperatures, Z-adjust, and re-leveled multiple times. Any thoughts on the cause of this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9iPK3.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Photo of a string tower model with no stringing present&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9iPK3.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Photo of a string tower model with no stringing present&quot; title=&quot;Photo of a string tower model with no stringing present&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="38754" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2023-06-14T19:26:21.903" LastActivityDate="2024-03-15T15:00:25.067" Title="Stringing test results in towers with weak base" Tags="|print-quality|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21058" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-06-15T22:12:49.920" Score="0" ViewCount="75" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an issue where my Fortus 250mc will freeze mid-print. What I mean by freezing is it will stop printing and the LED display will be stuck, wasting all the material and time up until the point of freezing. To get it working again we have to unplug it, plug it back in, and pray that it will finish the print on our next try.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This seems to happen randomly, my boss had the issue during a 30-minute print job for something small and it also happens for very long print jobs (5-10 hours). We originally noticed this happening on long prints where we leave the printer to run overnight, but with a bunch of new projects requiring 3D printed prototypes, we've noticed it happening during the workday as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If anyone has any suggestions for troubleshooting or has come across this before I would appreciate the help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="38773" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2023-06-15T22:18:47.707" LastActivityDate="2023-06-15T22:18:47.707" Title="Fortus 250mc will randomly freeze up midprint" Tags="|troubleshooting|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21061" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-06-16T20:02:09.277" Score="0" ViewCount="89" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have had some issues with my Ender 3 Pro (v4.2.2 motherboard). The BLTouch decided to just probe the air. It had been working quite fine until one day when it stopped. IDK if this helps, but I have dual Z axis installed, and the BLTouch stopped working shortly after I installed it. The actual BLTouch works fine - I tested it under the test section of the menu. Any help would be greatly appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="38792" LastActivityDate="2023-07-04T02:18:58.057" Title="Problems with BLTouch on Ender 3 Pro" Tags="|creality-ender-3|bltouch|z-probe|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21065" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-06-17T20:51:33.737" Score="0" ViewCount="71" Body="&lt;p&gt;My printer doesn't have extrusion but when I push it manually it extrudes just fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The extruder motor turns but it won't really push the filaments to get extruded.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am using the same G-code file that was used two years ago and back then it extruded without any issue. But to think it is the problem of hardware. The extruder extrudes well when I tried to prime the filament (I use gel). So I am confused whether this is a problem of extruder hardware or G-code.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9tl8E.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Screenshot of G-code&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9tl8E.png&quot; alt=&quot;Screenshot of G-code&quot; title=&quot;Screenshot of G-code&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Transcribed&lt;/strong&gt; G-code from screenshot (may contain errors/differences)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;; generated by PrusaSlicer 2.3.3+win64 on 2021-12-15 at 16:39:29 UTC&#xA;&#xA;;&#xA;&#xA;; external perimeters extrusion width = 0.15mm &#xA;; perimeters extrusion width = 0.15mm&#xA;; infill extrusion width = 0.15mm &#xA;; solid infill extrusion width = 0.15mm&#xA;; top infill extrusion width = 0.15mm &#xA;; first layer extrusion width = 0.15mm&#xA;&#xA;M107&#xA;;TYPE:Custom&#xA;G55&#xA;T0&#xA;M302 P1&#xA;g90&#xA;G21 ; set units to millimeters&#xA;G90 ; use absolute coordinates&#xA;M82 ; use absolute distances for extrusion&#xA;G92 E0&#xA;; Filament gcode &#xA;;LAYER CHANGE&#xA;;Z:0.06&#xA;;HEIGHT:0.06&#xA;G1 Z0.060 F900.000&#xA;G1 X-0.092 Y-0.377&#xA;;TYPE:Perimeter&#xA;;WIDTH:0.15&#xA;G1 X0.116 Y-0.418 E0.00004&#xA;G1 X0.328 Y-0.418 E0.00008&#xA;G1 X0.536 Y-0.377 E0.00012&#xA;G1 X0.731 Y-0.298 E0.00016&#xA;G1 X0.906 Y-0.184 E0.00020&#xA;G1 X1.053 Y-0.040 E0.00024&#xA;G1 X1.169 Y0.128 E0.00027&#xA;G1 X1.248 Y0.315 E0.00031&#xA;G1 X1.288 Y0.512 E0.00035&#xA;G1 X1.288 Y0.712 E0.00309&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="38807" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2023-06-20T16:55:10.760" LastActivityDate="2023-06-20T16:55:10.760" Title="No extrusion, but manual extrusion works. The motor turns but no filaments pushed down" Tags="|diy-3d-printer|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21066" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19940" CreationDate="2023-06-19T09:21:15.287" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is an option in the Hornet, which is in &lt;strong&gt;Motion&lt;/strong&gt; (so not when printing, just when idle), then &lt;strong&gt;Bed Z&lt;/strong&gt;. I have never used it since I just level manually but if you want to configure it via firmware then you can do it there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to offset each of the 9 points individually you can also do it on the same menu, select &lt;strong&gt;Level Bed&lt;/strong&gt; instead and it will take you routinely through each point so you can introduce individual Z values.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to do it via command you can use &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.3dprintbeast.com/set-x-y-z-offsets-with-m851-g-code/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;M851&lt;/a&gt;. I'm citing the relevant part from the guide:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Start by resetting the Z offset&lt;/strong&gt;. You can do this with the command&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;M851 Z0&lt;/strong&gt;, which will ensure that there is no pre-existing offset to&#xA;throw our calculations off.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Home the printer&lt;/strong&gt;. Use the &lt;strong&gt;G28&lt;/strong&gt; G-code to trigger auto-homing, which will bring all the axes to the 0 point.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Disable hardware endstops&lt;/strong&gt;. You can use the &lt;strong&gt;M121&lt;/strong&gt; G-code to do so.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Disable software endstops&lt;/strong&gt;. Use the &lt;strong&gt;M211&lt;/strong&gt; G-code with the &lt;strong&gt;S0&lt;/strong&gt; parameter&#xA;to do so. Place a piece of paper on the bed in line with the nozzle.&#xA;We will be using this piece of paper to know when to stop moving the&#xA;nozzle in the next step.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Bring the nozzle down slowly until it touches the piece of paper&lt;/strong&gt;.&#xA;You can do this via either the built-in panel or the software of&#xA;your choice.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Write the Z-axis value down and run the M851 G-code with it&lt;/strong&gt;. For&#xA;instance, if your Z-axis shows -2.5, run &lt;strong&gt;M851 Z-2.5&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[...]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, use the G-codes &lt;strong&gt;M120&lt;/strong&gt; and &lt;strong&gt;M211 S1&lt;/strong&gt; to enable the hardware and&#xA;software endstops, and run the &lt;strong&gt;M500&lt;/strong&gt; command to save your settings to&#xA;the EEPROM, which will allow your 3D printer to load them back&#xA;automatically every time you boot it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My personal way of keeping the Hornet bed leveled is manually instead of by firmware by having 5 individual files that each have a square at a different position (all the corners + center though I rarely use the latter) and when I notice prints start to look ugly on a certain corner I know I have to use that square to level.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rule is: &lt;strong&gt;if you see spaces between each line, raise the bed. If you see roughness, lower the bed&lt;/strong&gt;. You don't need to print the whole square either, just enough for you to see the filament fuses correctly as every line is being laid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/u8TyT.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/u8TyT.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Levelling guide&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(I understand this last point doesn't answer your question per se but I wanted to give you every option available to accomplish your levelling including manual)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37870" LastActivityDate="2023-06-19T09:21:15.287" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21067" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20954" CreationDate="2023-06-19T09:33:54.160" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't think 3d scanning would be practical here since this is a small and very simple part. &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YLso-cx9vyA&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;You can model it using reference pictures in Fusion360 instead&lt;/a&gt;. The program is free for personal use too. Plus learning how to do this means you can start fixing other stuff on your house using the same method later.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37870" LastActivityDate="2023-06-19T09:33:54.160" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21068" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21056" CreationDate="2023-06-19T09:40:16.547" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The warping on the base's corners suggests too much heat on the bed. You should try the same print but with the bed turned off since you're using PLA (if you're worried about adhesion you can use hairspray/glue stick to keep the print in place). If the print comes out okay then lower your bed temperature (I generally use 50 °C) or consider carrying on with the bed off + adhesive combination instead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37870" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2023-06-19T13:29:27.123" LastActivityDate="2023-06-19T13:29:27.123" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21069" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10683" CreationDate="2023-06-19T14:47:13.313" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;its up to you do some own test and see how its working for you:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;yesterday decrease temp to 50* after some time no issue&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;today decrease temp to 30* some small disform but its keep printing ok&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;also you can add paper glue to bed&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;keep in mind that when temperature decrease bed is moving down due to lost heat&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;if is large print then its stay on bed, small print can detach when decrease temperature&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NlZyA.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NlZyA.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="38828" LastActivityDate="2023-06-19T14:47:13.313" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21070" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21071" CreationDate="2023-06-19T15:20:45.210" Score="1" ViewCount="39" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am new to 3D printing, so this is probably a simple one.&#xA;I am using Freecad to design and Bambu slicer for printing. The object (simple cable clip) basically consists of vertical walls with no relevant overhangs. However, for printing, I have stacked seven of them in a vertical tower separating all seven objects by a small gap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NqdxA.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Bambu slicer's preview of seven cable clips stacked on top of each other&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NqdxA.png&quot; alt=&quot;Bambu slicer's preview of seven cable clips stacked on top of each other&quot; title=&quot;Bambu slicer's preview of seven cable clips stacked on top of each other&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I slice this with supports enabled, I get a preview that somewhat looks like Devil's Tower. I tried to draw the support manually and even blocked support at the walls which allows me to draw exactly what I want, but this doesn't change anything. The slicer still throws material at it like crazy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I ideally want is a single vertical support/breaking layer separating the parts. I know, I could model this breaking layer in Freecad, but the curved nature of the upper side makes sketching and modeling this quite difficult.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So my question is, is there an easy way to do this in a slicer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="38829" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2023-06-19T17:32:24.500" LastActivityDate="2023-06-19T18:14:57.477" Title="Add minimal support or breaking layer in multi part" Tags="|slicing|support-structures|support-material|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21071" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21070" CreationDate="2023-06-19T18:14:57.477" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The most easy solution is to edit the G-code file. In the G-code file you can see when the next stacked item starts to be printed. If there is no gap between the objects, the objects fuse together. If you insert G-code to raise the Z height by 0.1 - 0.2 mm and redefine the new Z to the old value prior to move you have created a weak/break layer similar to a support roof with a gap to the printed part.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So after the last layer of an object you insert:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;// E.g. last Z is 15 mm, layer height is 0.2 mm&#xA;G1 Z15.15 // Raise Z height by 0.15 mm&#xA;G92 Z15   // Define this the Z you left&#xA;// Continue printing next object&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2023-06-19T18:14:57.477" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21074" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20954" CreationDate="2023-06-20T09:23:03.083" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I used some thermoplastic. It does not look exactly like the original as I had to give it shape with my own hands, but certainly does the trick. It also costs less than $10 USD. Let's see how long it lasts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zuPiU.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zuPiU.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Fixed suitcase&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="38317" LastActivityDate="2023-06-20T09:23:03.083" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21075" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21077" CreationDate="2023-06-20T16:47:10.123" Score="0" ViewCount="60" Body="&lt;p&gt;All the scanners I have seen, are scanning objects that stand on a platform. What about something like a plastic part which doesn't stand on it's own? for example this &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/155528855558?chn=ps&amp;amp;norover=1&amp;amp;mkevt=1&amp;amp;mkrid=710-134428-41853-0&amp;amp;mkcid=2&amp;amp;mkscid=101&amp;amp;itemid=155528855558&amp;amp;targetid=1817264050035&amp;amp;device=c&amp;amp;mktype=pla&amp;amp;googleloc=1007230&amp;amp;poi=&amp;amp;campaignid=19097525516&amp;amp;mkgroupid=147591788601&amp;amp;rlsatarget=pla-1817264050035&amp;amp;abcId=9303861&amp;amp;merchantid=431985279&amp;amp;gclid=EAIaIQobChMIluvt16TS_wIVVsDtCh0-dwZhEAQYAyABEgJnR_D_BwE&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;plastic piece&lt;/a&gt; I broke on my Kärcher pressure washer&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/97eYq.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/97eYq.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do you just have to be skilled at modelling enough to create a model from scratch?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4408" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2023-06-20T18:05:37.383" LastActivityDate="2023-06-20T18:13:05.140" Title="3D scanning parts that don't stand on their own" Tags="|3d-models|scanning|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21076" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-06-20T17:20:30.170" Score="1" ViewCount="2297" Body="&lt;p&gt;The nozzle is not clogged.  After an adjustment, I get two to three good printed layers then the nozzle begins to lift away from the print.  If I do not adjust the Z offset more negatively, then the print begins to go airborne in very small increments while extruding filament. I must babysit the print to get it finished.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A 20 mm cube (XYZ calibration cube) turns out with Z measuring 4.3 mm and X and Y both measuring 20 mm.  I have tried printing a model which I have printed many times without problems in the past but now it fails to print.  I have downloaded the XYZ calibration stl from Thingiverse and it fails to print without going airborne.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have an Ender3 V2 Neo w/ BLTouch.  The default Z steps is 400 mm.  For calibration, I set it to 403 mm.  No improvement.  Then I set the Z steps to 380, 420, and 1200 mm without any change in the failed print results.  The V2 Neo is only 4 months old.  It has the most recent firmware but I re-flashed it anyway.  No change.  Then I downloaded from GitHub the mriscoc/Ender3V2S1 firmware. This firmware is awesome but it did not solve my problem.  I have replaced the Z stepper motor, no change.  My next step is to upgrade the motherboard from v 4.2.2 to v 4.2.7.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are your thoughts?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="38841" LastEditorUserId="36802" LastEditDate="2023-11-23T13:22:26.710" LastActivityDate="2023-11-23T13:22:26.710" Title="During a print, why must I continually adjust the Z offset to a more neagative number to keep the nozzle from air printing?" Tags="|creality-ender-3|z-axis|nozzle|print-axis-offset|mriscoc|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21077" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21075" CreationDate="2023-06-20T18:13:05.140" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;At work we print holders for parts that don't standup themselves. This part you broke is probably not suitable for being printed yourself, this is most probably Nylon (or even worse, POM), when you print this yourself you will get into some challenges, like warping. If this has been broken, I doubt whether you find a suitable replacement material. Personally, I would buy this part, it is too difficult to scan and print yourself. And, if printed outside using a print service, it will be more expensive then buying a spare.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2023-06-20T18:13:05.140" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21078" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-06-20T22:57:55.377" Score="0" ViewCount="20" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm almost done putting together this big behemoth, and I came to find out that the Y-axis is inverted. It goes away from the end stop. I've tried everything I could find but can't figure out why. It looks like it's just the Y-axis motor port on the board because I've swapped the X-axis and the Y-axis and it has the problem with the X-axis at that point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="38845" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2023-06-20T23:51:26.050" LastActivityDate="2023-06-20T23:51:26.050" Title="Inverted Y-axis on Modix BIG-120X V2" Tags="|y-axis|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21079" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21043" CreationDate="2023-06-21T06:05:50.117" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ultimately, your printer is pushing out less filament than the gcode is telling it to (which you know, but its worth focusing on the exact problem).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your stepper motor isn't missing steps, then that leaves just a few  possibilities:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The extruder's hobbed gear is slipping against the filament&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The extruder's hobbed gear (or whatever is being driven by the extruder motor) is slipping on the motor shaft.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You got a bad spool with short lengths where the filament diameter is substantially out of tolerance (in the negative direction).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;#3 seems extremely unlikely though is still possible. The filament need not be noticeably under spec, it just needs to narrow enough that the hobbed gear can't grab onto it well enough and you get slippage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;#2 is also unlikely but its so easy to check, might as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;#1 is what my money is on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now we have to think of what could be causing filament slippage. This occurs when the hobbed gear's ability to grab the filament is overpowered by the resistance to flow through the nozzle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This can either be from too little grip, or something causing unusual and intermittent resistance to flow that causes the hobbed gear to shred the filament.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If there is too little grip, you simply need to tighten the screw that has the spring that pushes the idler arm and idler pulley against the filament more pressure means better grip for the hobbed gear).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Your hobbed gear might have gunk between the teeth preventing it from gripping well and merely needs to be cleaned with something sharp.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Your idler pulley might have be broken, check for any play or unsmooth rotation on the shaft&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you're certain grip is nice and strong, that leaves something causing resistance to flow:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There might be a spec of debris with an irregular high aspect ratio shape in your hotend. It can't exit through the nozzle, but it also can't completely block it either, and is constantly moving around and only becomes a problem some of the time.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;One of your hotend's thermistor wires might have an intermittent short, or the thermistor itself has cracked. Low/short circuit resistance ends up getting interpreted as really high temperature, so no power is sent to the heater until a good enough thermistor connection returns. This can result in the hotend getting too cold for short periods. This option seems plausible since there seems to be a rough correlation between the print head position and when it happens, which is consistent with a broken conductor issue. The connection goes bad when the wires are positioned in certain ways, basically.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And it could of course be any combination of these things cooccurring and all contributing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately, under extrusion has so many potential causes that you just have to start going down the list from easiest to hardest thing to fix, and hope the problem is more towards the easy end.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10295" LastActivityDate="2023-06-21T06:05:50.117" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21080" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10634" CreationDate="2023-06-21T06:54:24.400" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, after searching it appears that the schematics for the MKS Gen L v1.0 are not available openly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/makerbase-mks/MKS-GEN_L/blob/8279302a37ea4e8dd0359719449b41bf2e32edef/hardware/MKS%20Gen_L%20V1.0_008/MKS%20Gen_L%20V1.0_008%20SCH.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Here is the schematic&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway, the problem is the MP1584 regular is toast. There is no reverse biased protection diode going from output to input (arrow pointing towards input) in the schematic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most buck or linear voltage regulators aren't meant to be operated with Vout being higher than Vin, even briefly. There are internal parasitic diode structures inside that will get turned on by voltage in the wrong direction (higher Vout than Vin). Once turned on, the output capacitor happily dumps its charge through these diode structures and out to Vin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This kills the regulator.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What results is typically an internal short of some sort in the chip.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So when you shorted Vm, that was also shorting the input to the 5V regulator and the input capacitor there, so suddenly there was 0V at Vin and ~5V at Vout. Poor chip never stood a chance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What results is typically an internal short of some sort in the chip.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is not your fault, this is poor design (or a reckless cost saving decision), as accidentally shorting Vm is very easy to do on accident. A suitable diode would have cost ~1.3¢, not even two whole pennies and would have made accidental shorting of Vm be harmless. There is no valid reason not to include such a protection diode on the board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regardless, your only options are to either desolder the MP1584 and solder a new one onto the board, or, since you can talk to the board via USB (which provides its own 5V power to the board), desolder the MSP1584 (since it is shorting the input power to some degree) and simply keeping a USB charger of some sort plugged into the USB port (I wouldn't leave it connected to your computer since it doesn't have any USB isolation) to provide the 5V power rail instead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main problem is that bad chip. You gotta get it off the board before anything will be able to work unfortunately. Desoldering is relatively easy, especially if you don't care about the chip you're removing. Just be sure there are no shorts between the pads after you're done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10295" LastActivityDate="2023-06-21T06:54:24.400" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21081" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20900" CreationDate="2023-06-21T08:29:58.973" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;My nozzle was 2 mm too high. When the limit switch reach the bed nozzle was 2 mm up. My solution was to lower the hotend 2 mm, and that has worked so far. So try adjustment of the hotend.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="38847" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2023-06-21T09:21:57.663" LastActivityDate="2023-06-21T09:21:57.663" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21082" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-06-21T15:45:23.057" Score="1" ViewCount="292" Body="&lt;p&gt;The SKR Mini E3 V2 uses the STM32F103RCF6 MCU based around ARM.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to control the pin &lt;code&gt;PC12&lt;/code&gt; with PWM. However, this pin is not working as the Laser PWM signal. It never gets triggered actually with &lt;code&gt;G0&lt;/code&gt;/&lt;code&gt;G1 S0-255&lt;/code&gt;, although I am absolutely sure, that this is not an issue with the laser configuration itself. When manually setting the pin state with G-code I can only set it to 0 V with &lt;code&gt;S0&lt;/code&gt; or to 3.3V with &lt;code&gt;S1&lt;/code&gt; to S255. It is not doing any kind of PWM at all. The same can be observed with &lt;code&gt;PC6&lt;/code&gt; vs &lt;code&gt;PC7&lt;/code&gt;. &lt;code&gt;PC6&lt;/code&gt; is the parts cooling fan and it outputs PWM signals. &lt;code&gt;PC7&lt;/code&gt; is the controller fan and it does not output PWM. I have checked the 2 main Configs of Marlin and the Pins BTT... and BTT...common for any clues, however regarding the definition of these pins I see no difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After looking up the pins using the PDF of the manufacturer, I cannot see a difference between &lt;code&gt;PC6&lt;/code&gt; and &lt;code&gt;PC7&lt;/code&gt; - both are paper-wise supporting the same features and just have a different index - which is kind of obvious. So how is it possible, that one pin can be set to PWM states, while the other pins (without exception) only react digitally with a &lt;code&gt;0&lt;/code&gt; or &lt;code&gt;1&lt;/code&gt; state?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please do not consider the version, which is 2.0.9.1, quite outdated. I have to stick to the version for like a dozen of reasons. It is a fork anyways, so what gives? I do not actually want to ask about firmware version things, but how it is possible, that there is a difference on this level at all? If I set the pin state whilst disabling firmware protection of this pin I would expect the pin to react as PWM, if I ask it to. I mean, using the thermistor pins as output is possible, which works as expected. From the chip datasheet and the configuration files I cannot see a reason, why the pins would behave differently. The circuit between &lt;code&gt;PC6&lt;/code&gt; and &lt;code&gt;PC7&lt;/code&gt; is absolutely identical, so this is out of the question already.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any function, that needs to be called or a setting that needs to be made for PWM to be even loaded/initialized at all? I see many people struggling to set PWM to any pin other than the parts cooling fan, so it is not a new issue. I never saw a real fix for this, only suggestions like Buck converter for manual adjustments.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to control a laser, so this is out of the question. Any idea?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="38855" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2023-06-21T18:39:03.450" LastActivityDate="2023-06-21T18:39:03.450" Title="SKR Mini E3 V2 - PWM on PC12 possible?" Tags="|marlin|firmware|skr-mini-e3|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21083" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-06-22T09:25:28.987" Score="0" ViewCount="854" Body="&lt;p&gt;About 30 minutes into a print, the printer stopped printing. It froze in one place and when I realised that it had gone awry, there was a large blob of PETG stuck to the nozzle, which I have since removed. The screen was unresponsive at the print page, not responding to me clicking the &amp;quot;pause&amp;quot; and &amp;quot;stop&amp;quot; options. I have turned on and off, both the power outlet and the power switch on the printer. Now when booting up, there is the normal animation of the boot up, but it is stuck on a blank page with the Anycubic Kobra. I bought the printer late last year and I think the firmware is up to date. The numerous previous prints have gone mostly smoothly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What should I do now? Thanks in advance for all your help.&#xA;(Apologies for the tag, as I could not find a more suitable tag)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36890" LastActivityDate="2024-02-16T19:00:45.083" Title="Anycubic Kobra freezing mid print" Tags="|fdm|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21084" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21086" CreationDate="2023-06-22T11:40:56.633" Score="0" ViewCount="73" Body="&lt;p&gt;I’m fairly new to 3D printing but have managed about 10 parts successfully so far. On this print, there were some issues printing the raft, but by the final layer, it looked ok, so I let it continue. I was surprised to see that when trying to print the circular pattern, the filament seems to come unstuck from the raft and pull across.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this down to bed adhesion, or some post-processing setting? I’m running PLA at 50 mm/s. The bed temp is 50 °C and the nozzle temp is 210 °C.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YIAu4.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Partial 3D print showing the layers after the raft not adhering properly&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YIAu4.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Partial 3D print showing the layers after the raft not adhering properly&quot; title=&quot;Partial 3D print showing the layers after the raft not adhering properly&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="38429" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2023-06-22T14:15:50.957" LastActivityDate="2023-06-22T17:31:34.800" Title="Why are the circular parts of this print not sticking to the raft properly" Tags="|creality-ender-3|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21085" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20689" CreationDate="2023-06-22T14:40:46.690" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had this same issue and fixed it by removing the z-stop cable and using the black and white (the combined 2 wires on the BLTouch). Below is a diagram that may help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NpZ1U.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NpZ1U.png&quot; alt=&quot;BLTouch wiring to z end stop&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="38867" LastEditorUserId="38867" LastEditDate="2023-06-22T14:44:26.530" LastActivityDate="2023-06-22T14:44:26.530" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21086" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21084" CreationDate="2023-06-22T17:31:34.800" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Likely the extruder gear is slipping on the filament. The tension arm may be weak or broken. It's also possible that there's a partial clog.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whenever you get curved paths not adhering in place but getting &amp;quot;pulled&amp;quot; straight across the curve, the forces pulling on the extruded material from the nozzle moving are exceeding those making it adhere to whatever it was supposed to adhere to below. This can especially happen on overhangs, where there's low contact with what's below, or in cases like over a raft or support where there's a gap and it's intended not to strongly adhere to anything below. However, if the right amount of material is being extruded, and if it's sufficiently melted before extrusion, there should be very little force trying to pull it out of place. This leads me to believe there's some extrusion problem going on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can't find anything wrong, you can try just going slower on the first layer after the raft, or using a hotter nozzle temperature. In the big scheme of things, 50 mm/s is a really low print speed, but for someone new to 3D printing, using a stock Ender 3 that likely has lots of little problems you're going to have to find and fix, it's at least an &amp;quot;above average&amp;quot; speed for a first layer, and I'd try just reducing that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2023-06-22T17:31:34.800" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21087" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21043" CreationDate="2023-06-22T19:13:23.533" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would strongly follow Teach Tech's calibration guide.  It's entirely possible that there are a number of things out of whack, contributing to the overall print quality.  In this case, I'd look at doing a PID tune and seeing if your print temps are consistent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, as the filament is fed into the nozzle, that lowers the temp, and if your temperature is not consistent, it might be lowered to a point where it starts to solidify, this would account for the results you get but again, could be a number of things.  Even wet filament.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The filament you are using has a temp range of 205 +/-15.  That means anything from 190 to 220. Even in your pic you can see the issue starting at lower layers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Calibration is clearly the first thing to do before anything else.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="38870" LastActivityDate="2023-06-22T19:13:23.533" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21088" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21096" CreationDate="2023-06-22T22:02:36.757" Score="1" ViewCount="66" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'll start off with some info in case it's needed, but my questions are a bit lower. I have an Ender 3 Pro with the 4.2.2 motherboard. Grabbed a Marlin firmware bin from Shiny Upgrades and seems to work great (built my own once and wasn't a fan). Got my Z-offset sorted out with a combination of stealing other people's numbers and testing a few prints out. Tried auto homing, but got weird numbers and instead resorted to that other approach. Printer seems work well now and my Z-offset is around -0.8 mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;Is the Z-offset I set in printer UI the distance between the sensor and the nozzle?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;br&gt;If so, does that mean I can now swap beds and expect the printer to automatically adjust for that &lt;em&gt;without&lt;/em&gt; having to adjust the Z-offset again? Maybe assume I'm swapping between two perfectly flat beds and one is 5 mm thick and one is 10 mm thick, so we don't have to account for a different bed level mesh or something.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;Is my bed leveling kind of useless?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;br&gt;I have 7x7 leveling, but the sensor is quite the distance away from the actual nozzle (mainly on the X-axis, but I assume also on the Y-axis), so any point it levels for won't actually be the point where the nozzle prints. I don't recall seeing any X or Y offsets in the printer UI either, just the Z offset. Why would the Z offset be an adjustable value in the UI, but not the other two? Barely anyone even mentions setting an X-offset and I'm not sure why.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="38872" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2023-06-24T21:28:33.990" LastActivityDate="2023-06-25T00:10:19.890" Title="How does my printer auto level based off the sensor I installed?" Tags="|marlin|bed-leveling|z-probe|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21089" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21076" CreationDate="2023-06-22T22:35:50.800" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It seems your Z-axis calibration is off. First, ensure your Z-axis steps/mm are set correctly in the firmware.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second, ensure your BLTouch is functioning correctly. Incorrect bed leveling information might be the cause.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Third, inspect your 3D printer's mechanical parts. Loose screws or belts might cause the Z-axis to drift.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lastly, it's possible you're experiencing an extrusion issue. Make sure your extruder is pushing out the correct amount of filament.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And if all else fails, if you ask me, I would say upgrading your controller board could be a potential solution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36493" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2023-06-23T11:09:55.637" LastActivityDate="2023-06-23T11:09:55.637" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21090" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-06-23T06:28:29.777" Score="1" ViewCount="37" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am having this issue with stringing when printing these small clay cutters. The stringing is across any small cut out area. I have calibrated the temp, retraction distance, retraction speed, and E-Step. Maybe I need to calibrate flow as well for this issue?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Printer: Ender 3 S1 Pro&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Filament: PLA&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Settings:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Temp:195C&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Retraction distance: 0.3mm&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Retraction speed: 45mm/s&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Retraction minimum travel: 0mm (so retraction can happen over the small areas)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fmf59.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fmf59.png&quot; alt=&quot;Here are my print results&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there anyway to optimize the path of the hot end? The stringing perfectly follows how the hot end jumps over the different cutter areas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/s8fSK.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/s8fSK.png&quot; alt=&quot;Here is what my hot end travel looks like in Cura&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And just for reference, 0.3mm for retraction distance seemed low from what I've been reading online, but this is the retraction tower I ran and how I got that number:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SGsti.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SGsti.png&quot; alt=&quot;Here is my retraction tower&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just today I got my filament in a dryer and it has been running all day, so the filament should be dry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm willing to try any calibration again or literally anything! Thank you&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="38874" LastEditorUserId="38874" LastEditDate="2023-06-23T06:29:13.930" LastActivityDate="2023-06-23T06:29:13.930" Title="Stringing across hollow shapes used for cutting" Tags="|creality-ender-3|stringing|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21093" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21163" CreationDate="2023-06-23T11:27:52.630" Score="0" ViewCount="62" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have the issue that &lt;code&gt;G29&lt;/code&gt; does work as expected but then fails a couple of times at different measuring points after taht it succeeds again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I decided to enable debugging for leveling by &lt;code&gt;M111 S32&lt;/code&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Recv: &amp;lt;&amp;lt;&amp;lt; do_blocking_move_to  X291.1250 Y96.0000 Z1.1500&#xA;Recv:   current_position= X291.1250 Y96.0000 Z1.1499 : sync_plan_position&#xA;Recv: &amp;lt;&amp;lt;&amp;lt; Probe::probe_down_to_z  X291.1250 Y96.0000 Z1.1499&#xA;Recv:  Probe fail! - No trigger.&#xA;Recv: &amp;lt;&amp;lt;&amp;lt; Probe::run_z_probe  X291.1250 Y96.0000 Z1.1499&#xA;Recv:   current_position= X291.1250 Y96.0000 Z1.1499 : Probe::set_deployed&#xA;Recv: deploy=0 no_return=0&#xA;Recv: Raise Z to 5.0000&#xA;Recv: do_z_clearance(5.0000 [1.1499 to 7.1500], 0)&#xA;Recv: do_blocking_move_to_z(7.1500, 4.1667)&#xA;Recv: &amp;gt;&amp;gt;&amp;gt; do_blocking_move_to  X291.1250 Y96.0000 Z1.1499&#xA;Recv: &amp;gt;  X291.1250 Y96.0000 Z7.1500&#xA;[...]&#xA;Recv: &amp;lt;&amp;lt;&amp;lt; do_blocking_move_to  X291.1250 Y96.0000 Z7.1500&#xA;Recv: &amp;gt;&amp;gt;&amp;gt; Probe::probe_specific_action  X291.1250 Y96.0000 Z7.1500&#xA;Recv: BLTouch STOW requested&#xA;Recv: BLTouch from 10 to 90&#xA;Recv: bltouch.stow_proc() end&#xA;Recv: &amp;lt;&amp;lt;&amp;lt; Probe::probe_specific_action  X291.1250 Y96.0000 Z7.1500&#xA;Recv: &amp;gt;&amp;gt;&amp;gt; do_blocking_move_to  X291.1250 Y96.0000 Z7.1500&#xA;Recv: &amp;gt;  X291.1250 Y96.0000 Z7.1500&#xA;Recv: &amp;lt;&amp;lt;&amp;lt; do_blocking_move_to  X291.1250 Y96.0000 Z7.1500&#xA;Recv: //action:notification Probing Failed&#xA;Recv: Error:Probing Failed&#xA;WARNING! Received an error from the printer's firmware, ignoring that as configured but you might want to investigate what happened here! Error: Probing Failed&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does &lt;code&gt;Probe fail! - No trigger.&lt;/code&gt; mean the probe has a defect so that it sometimes does not trigger?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user31236" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2023-06-23T15:37:26.993" LastActivityDate="2023-07-09T15:44:37.010" Title="G29 Sometimes fails - Defective probe?" Tags="|bltouch|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21094" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21043" CreationDate="2023-06-23T14:14:20.633" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Solved! Finally...&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So after having this issue off and on, an extreme case appeared. It turns out that filament was resisting coming off the spool, and when the extruder and hotend (the Simple is a direct-drive) pulled away from the spool it created tension in the filament, effectively pulling it out of the hotend, though only just enough to cause this issue. In this specific case, it seems that the long edge before the side of the piece was pulling the filament.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Shoutout to @metacollin and @DragonDon for their answers. I'm still calibrating my machine, so they'll useful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="38544" LastActivityDate="2023-06-23T14:14:20.633" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21095" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21097" CreationDate="2023-06-23T23:08:06.603" Score="1" ViewCount="43" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've had a magnetic sheet on my Ender 3 for some time. It came with a Creality 3D flexible bed. I've since got a couple of PEI coated steel plates and use it with that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I noticed it had a lot of crud embedded in it, so since each of the coated steel beds came with a magnetic pad, I have a choice of pads to apply.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since there seems little variation in the magnetism once the plate is fully over the pad. would I be better going for the lightest at around 120 g, or the heavier ones (at around 240 g) which do have a slightly stronger pull?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm intending to use a couple of ADXL345's to tune the resonance after I've reinstalled the bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20131" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2023-06-24T14:30:03.813" LastActivityDate="2023-06-25T04:51:10.353" Title="Is a lighter magnetic pad better?" Tags="|creality-ender-3|bed|build-surface|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21096" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21088" CreationDate="2023-06-24T21:57:08.867" Score="0" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Is the Z-offset I set in printer UI the distance between the sensor and the nozzle?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/5858/&quot;&gt;this answer&lt;/a&gt; on question &amp;quot;&lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/5857/z-offset-on-autoleveling-sensor-setup&quot;&gt;Z Offset on autoleveling sensor setup&lt;/a&gt;&amp;quot; we read that:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;the offset between the nozzle and the sensor trigger point (to the bed)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you replace the build surface for a different surface the offset doesn't have to be changed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Is my bed leveling kind of useless?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No, automatic bed leveling can be very useful if the build surface isn't as flat as a sheet of glass, it will map the surface and ensures the first layer is deposited at the correct distance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't recall seeing any X or Y offsets in the printer UI&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These settings are in the firmware, that is where these are defined. Note that these shouldn't be in the UI, as this is a hardware change. Also note that Marlin is pretty well programmed and is aware of this sensor offset, and even will use these offsets to have the print head (nozzle to be exact) stay within the specified print area. This is a good thing, e.g. when the sensor offset is large, and it would probe to the edge of the bed, the head could potentially wreck one side of the printer. This is described in question &amp;quot;&lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/8153/how-to-set-z-probe-boundary-limits-in-firmware-when-using-automatic-bed-leveling&quot;&gt;How to set Z-probe boundary limits in firmware when using automatic bed leveling?&lt;/a&gt;&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2023-06-25T00:10:19.890" LastActivityDate="2023-06-25T00:10:19.890" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21097" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21095" CreationDate="2023-06-25T04:51:10.353" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you want/intend to print fast (high acceleration), adding mass to the moving bed is a big problem. It both decreases the resonant frequencies of the system (making it harder for input shaping to suppress them without introducing significant errors into the toolpath) and increases the force needed to accelerate the bed (making it easier to skip steps). So, all other things equal, you want to pick the lighter magnetic plate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With that said, if you really want performance, the lightest plate is no plate. Myself and at least several other people I know doing high performance printing on bedslingers have dropped (or skipped adopting) the magnetic plates and gone to clip-on plates or no plates at all. I'm running my Ender 3 with &amp;quot;blue tape&amp;quot;/&amp;quot;painter's tape&amp;quot; directly on the aluminum bed (no separate buildplate) and others are using various surface treatments (variants on the old &amp;quot;ABS slurry&amp;quot;, hairspray, etc. concepts) to print directly on aluminum. This saves a lot of mass, but can be less convenient for popping prints off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2023-06-25T04:51:10.353" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21099" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-06-25T09:16:25.257" Score="3" ViewCount="95" Body="&lt;p&gt;I need Automatic Bed Leveling (ABL). I have seen this: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3468254/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;FreeABL - the ultra cheap (free) ABL for Ender 3&lt;/a&gt;. However, after reading the description, I found out that I need to flash the firmware.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had a lot of problems with this, so is it actually needed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="38905" LastEditorUserId="36802" LastEditDate="2023-11-24T17:10:01.487" LastActivityDate="2023-11-24T17:10:01.487" Title="Is Marlin 2.0 actually needed for Automatic Bed Leveling using FreeABL?" Tags="|creality-ender-3|firmware|automatic-bed-leveling|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21102" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21099" CreationDate="2023-06-27T09:43:24.170" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, Marlin 2.x is not necessary you could use 1.1.9 as well, but, you do need to flash a newly configured firmware as this hardware change is not standardly supported by the current firmware on your printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2023-06-27T09:43:24.170" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21103" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-06-27T20:43:39.187" Score="0" ViewCount="26" Body="&lt;p&gt;I wanna buy an SLS 3D printer and I figured it uses Galvo scanners to sinter powder. The whole printing operation depends on this Galvo scanner thing. What Galvo Scanner does your printer use and what are the specs? I am talking f_theta and speed. I would greatly appreciate you taking a minute to answer this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="38940" LastActivityDate="2023-06-27T20:43:39.187" Title="What galvo scanner does your SLS 3D printer use? Normally which ones should I prefer while buying one" Tags="|print-quality|laser|sls|slm|printing-powder|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21104" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-06-28T14:32:58.237" Score="0" ViewCount="150" Body="&lt;p&gt;From day one I've always had my spool so that filament comes off &amp;quot;the top&amp;quot;, but recently I wondered if it mattered, or there were any advantages/disadvantages to which side of the spool the filament came from. I did find &lt;a href=&quot;https://forum.prusa3d.com/forum/original-prusa-i3-mk3s-mk3-general-discussion-announcements-and-releases/should-filament-spools-feed-over-the-top-or-from-under-the-bottom/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt;, but it proved inconclusive. So, does it matter which side of the spool the filament comes from. Are their any pros/cons to either side? Or is this just a matter of personal preference?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="38544" LastActivityDate="2023-07-04T11:22:33.913" Title="Draw from the top or draw from the bottom?" Tags="|filament|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21105" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-06-28T18:40:14.573" Score="0" ViewCount="56" Body="&lt;p&gt;Having recently got a new bed plate (PEI covered steel) I decided to run a bed mesh calibration with a higher than usual number of points (23,23) to see if there were any high spots or dips.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Klipper measures the bed by moving left to right along the x-axis nearest the front, probing at each point, then onto the next line where it moves right to left then left to right on the third line and so on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The result showed ridges indicating the height was measured differently when moving in one direction or the other. Since I didn't believe the plate actually had ridges, I tried a couple of other sizes (19,19) and (15,15). In each case, I get a slightly higher measurement when the probe is moving right to left than left to right&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My setup is an Ender 3 with a 3D Touch (BLTouch clone) mounted on a Hero Me 7.2 hotend fan assembly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What would likely cause this effect? I'm not aware of anything being out of adjustment and the difference is probably about 0.1mm, but I feel it should be happening.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qgFFS.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qgFFS.png&quot; alt=&quot;23x23&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7i88V.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7i88V.png&quot; alt=&quot;19x19&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/y745t.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/y745t.png&quot; alt=&quot;15x15&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20131" LastActivityDate="2023-06-28T18:40:14.573" Title="Bed mesh registers different height when measured in different direction" Tags="|calibration|build-plate|klipper|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21108" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-06-30T02:08:25.750" Score="2" ViewCount="79" Body="&lt;p&gt;From what I know, the speed (X, Y) of the nozzle always be slowed down to 10 mm/s-100 mm/s when printing bridge or overhang structure because of insufficient cooling. The printing speed is less than 1/10 or even only 1/100 of the maximum speed (when &amp;gt; 1000 mm/s). I saw someone bring up the idea of mist cooling in another question. Can we just use water mist cooling to cool the part? If not can we use liquid nitrogen mist cooling and make use of its evaporation heat absorption properly (when evaporated, it will turn into gas)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Printing material: PLA&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37409" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2023-06-30T17:19:08.257" LastActivityDate="2023-06-30T17:19:08.257" Title="Can water or liquid nitrogen mist cooling be used in part cooling?" Tags="|print-quality|pla|nozzle|speed|cooling|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21109" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21108" CreationDate="2023-06-30T08:59:50.697" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Liquid nitrogen cools surfaces in which contact between the liquid and the surface is achieved. Once the nitrogen becomes vapor, little to no cooling will be accomplished. One would not want to have liquid nitrogen in contact with a printing part, as the thermal shock will fracture the part as well as create thermal errors in the heater block and heated bed surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Water mist will deposit water on the part (if cooling is to be effected) and create similar thermal considerations, to a lesser degree compared to nitrogen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If increased cooling is your goal, chilled dry air may be a solution with the smallest possibility of failure, although thermal errors on the heater block and heated bed should be expected.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastActivityDate="2023-06-30T08:59:50.697" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21110" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-06-30T12:30:21.687" Score="0" ViewCount="63" Body="&lt;p&gt;You have 10 ender 5 printers in a college maker space environment, all vanilla hardware with stock firmware and no modifications. They are all the same age and visual have no noticeable differences in terms of wear and tear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;5 have basic colored pla filiment loaded, 5 have special material filiment loaded.which probably isn't relevant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Paper logs are not kept of how long each machine is used for, only who is using the maker space on a given day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Students may print from an SD card or connect a private laptop to print from, so no there are no server logs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it possible to extract any information at all from the printer itself to determine how much it has been used. For example how many hour it has been powered on, how many hours it has been printing, or how much filiment it has passed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It does not need to be granular, a simple life run total would do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The aim is to help determine if someone has been running the printers overnight as a print farm without authorisation by seeing if they have more hours on them than could reasonable be accounted for through normal us inside maker space hours.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="29097" LastActivityDate="2023-06-30T13:13:48.943" Title="Can the total runtime of an ender 5 be determined from the printer itself?" Tags="|creality-ender-5|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21111" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21110" CreationDate="2023-06-30T13:13:48.943" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The stock firmware of the printers in question is an old version of Marlin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Marlin supports a &lt;code&gt;PRINTCOUNTER&lt;/code&gt; if activated in the &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/blob/bugfix-2.1.x/Marlin/Configuration.h#L2487&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;configuration.h&lt;/a&gt; file.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This can be read with the &lt;code&gt;M78&lt;/code&gt; g-code command.&#xA;Apparently, this function is not activated by default in &lt;a href=&quot;https://forums.creality3dofficial.com/download/ender-series/ender-5/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Creality's firmware&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may choose to build your own, much more up-to-date version of Marlin from scratch and enable this feature for future tracking.&#xA;However, note that this can be reset with a &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/blob/bugfix-2.1.x/Marlin/src/gcode/stats/M75-M78.cpp#L67&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;code&gt;M78 S78&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/a&gt; g-code command.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13171" LastActivityDate="2023-06-30T13:13:48.943" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21112" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-06-30T13:38:05.910" Score="0" ViewCount="46" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can octoprint connect to a camera that uses the onvif streaming connection standard over https or rts, as opposed to a direct mjpeg stream over usb?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a bunch of onvif camera lying around that I could potentially repurpose to watch my printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="29097" LastActivityDate="2023-06-30T13:38:05.910" Title="Can octoprint stream from an on if camera over https or rts" Tags="|octoprint|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21113" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-07-01T09:04:28.507" Score="0" ViewCount="597" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am new to 3D printing but decided to follow the build-your-own-printer route. It’s a simple design running on Marlin with a RAMPS 1.4 board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So far I have printed the 2 mm calibration cube and two other small objects from Thingiverse and they all turn out fine. However, for over three weeks, I have been unsuccessfully trying to print a model I made in Blender. I keep getting an &lt;code&gt;echo: too long extrusion prevented&lt;/code&gt; error on Pronterface and then the printer briefly pauses before resuming and afterward, the filament snaps out of the extruder or jams the nozzle leading to a failed print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have searched the internet for solutions and these are what I have done so far:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I have reduced the voltage on the trim pot on the stepper driver (A4988) the heat sinks do seem to get pretty hot to the touch.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I have reduced the print speed to 60%&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I have added a bed offset on the firmware to properly center the prints. (This seems to create other issues so I reversed it back to the way it was before)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could someone please help me out here to understand what I am doing wrong? The part I am trying to print is actually meant to replace the wooden plate I used to carry one of the stepper motors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have attached a picture of my screen on Pronterface showing the model and the error message.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mwFME.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Picture of my screen on Pronterface&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mwFME.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Picture of my screen on Pronterface&quot; title=&quot;Picture of my screen on Pronterface&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="38972" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2023-07-01T13:32:42.370" LastActivityDate="2023-11-28T15:03:00.360" Title="Error &quot;echo:too long extrusion prevented&quot; when printing a model I made in Blender" Tags="|extruder|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21114" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21113" CreationDate="2023-07-01T14:46:12.377" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This error is nothing wrong with your printer, its electronics, print speed, or anything like that. It's erroneous gcode, produced by a buggy slicer, that emitted a command to extrude an inordinately large amount of filament at a time, in a way that could not possibly work. Your printer's firmware is protecting it from actually trying to do that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To try to track down the problem, look at the gcode at the point where the error occurs. If you can't make sense of it, post the gcode file (or even better, just a block quote of the relevant part inline in your question) and someone should be able to explain what's going on and why it occurred.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just upgrading your slicer might fix it, though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2023-07-01T14:46:12.377" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21115" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21377" CreationDate="2023-07-01T21:14:28.613" Score="0" ViewCount="75" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently spilled waste water from my resin printing onto a fabric cooler. The water was in a container I was using to cure leftover resin from cleaning finished prints by leaving it in the sun for a while. So there was an unknown amount of uncured resin in it after I had left it out for a few hours.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it likely that the cooler is permanently contaminated or should I be able to wash it and use it again? It isn't a really expensive one but also not really something I wanted to replace yet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="38975" LastActivityDate="2023-08-28T18:18:36.530" Title="Water washable resin safety" Tags="|resin|safety|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21116" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15882" CreationDate="2023-07-01T23:20:43.200" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I encountered a &lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/wiki/RAMPS_1.6#Warning&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;warning&lt;/a&gt; in the RepRap wiki regarding the same issue and checked my RAMPS 1.6 and found out I had the same issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In order to address the matter I de-soldered the J5 connectors and scratched the left side of +5 V pin as well as the bottom left corner of ps-on pin in order to disconnect the +5 V pin and rail from ground. I kept scratching lightly and checked whether the short was gone with a multi-meter in continuity mode until the beeping stopped.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I used the photo provided by RepRap showing where the short usually occurs along with the pads diagram file &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/bigtreetech/ramps-1.6/blob/master/Ramps1.6/hardware/R6.PcbDoc&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;R6.PcbDoc&lt;/a&gt; from the GitHub repo which I opened using &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.altium.com/viewer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Altium's online viewer link&lt;/a&gt; as I didn't have it installed on my machine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/t7SNZ.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Photo of a RAMPS board where a short usually occurs&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/t7SNZ.png&quot; alt=&quot;Photo of a RAMPS board where a short usually occurs&quot; title=&quot;Photo of a RAMPS board where a short usually occurs&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope anyone reading this finds it useful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="38977" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2023-07-02T02:27:07.350" LastActivityDate="2023-07-02T02:27:07.350" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21117" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-07-02T00:13:32.263" Score="0" ViewCount="27" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am looking at getting a direct drive upgrade kit for my Creality CR-10s Pro printer  (e.g. on Amazon there is one with brand name Yeebyee). My question is about whether these kits support the autolevel sensor on my printer.  The pictures of the kit installed don't show the sensor. Is it possible to install the sensor with one of these kits?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5667" LastActivityDate="2023-07-02T00:13:32.263" Title="CR-10S Pro direct drive upgrade" Tags="|creality-cr-10|direct-drive|automatic-bed-leveling|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21118" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-07-02T00:45:28.763" Score="0" ViewCount="446" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use SD cards to print on a Printrbot Simple Metal, and the Simple will automatically print the file named &lt;code&gt;auto0.g&lt;/code&gt;. The issue here is that Cura, by default, saves files as something like &lt;code&gt;PS-part.gcode&lt;/code&gt;. So, is there a way to make it save under the name &lt;code&gt;auto0.g&lt;/code&gt; by default?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cura Version: 5.1&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="38544" LastActivityDate="2023-07-04T03:54:24.503" Title="Set Ultimaker Cura 5.1 default save name" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21119" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-07-02T11:06:28.933" Score="1" ViewCount="49" Body="&lt;p&gt;Creality Slicer has a setting labeled &amp;quot;Limit Support Retractions&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's description is as follows&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Omit retractions when moving from support to support in a straight&#xA;line. Enabling this setting saves print time, but can lead to&#xA;excessive stringing within the support structure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Presumably other slicing software has similar settings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could somebody please explain what the consequences of excessive stringing in the support structure could potentially be, and why you might want to avoid them, as the support structure is typically removed and discarded, so stringing wouldn't seem like a big problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="29097" LastActivityDate="2023-07-02T18:18:58.730" Title="Potential consequences of stringing within support structures?" Tags="|software|creality|stringing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21121" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21119" CreationDate="2023-07-02T18:18:58.730" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Potential consequences include:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Structural problems from underextrusion (failure of support to hold up right) immediately after wherever the stringing happens. This is especially likely if you have lots of small supports for fine detail, where the problem will quickly accumulate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Strings getting dragged into places where they bond with the actual model and mar its surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Support structures becoming brittle and breaking up/splittling at layers lines when you try to remove them, rather than coming off cleanly in chunks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;In a worse case (most likely when stringing accumulates after travel to several very small support regions), underextrusion in the actual model immediately following printing of the supports, until the nozzle pressure can build back up to match the flow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have a direct drive printer with very little oozing during travel, and have your travel speed and acceleration set high, it's possible that none of this will matter. I always had very bad results with &amp;quot;limit support retractions&amp;quot; and just turned it off. It only saves any significant time on printers that need long/slow retractions, which are typically the ones where it harms print quality the most. If you find your retractions are taking up signifcant time on a direct drive printer, you're either trying to do a 5-minute Benchy or your retraction settings are just way too long/slow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2023-07-02T18:18:58.730" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21122" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20408" CreationDate="2023-07-02T22:52:13.377" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Based on your picture, I can tell that the leveling springs aren't standing straight up, rather they are leaning at an angle, making it so that full extension doesn't push the platform up as high as would be possible if they were straight. I had the exact same problem. I simply took a pen and nudged all the springs to make them stand up straight, and it solved the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know it doesn't look like it will help much, but trust me it does.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="38990" LastActivityDate="2023-07-02T22:52:13.377" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21123" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-07-03T05:46:34.323" Score="1" ViewCount="47" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Problem&lt;/strong&gt;: Detent potentiometers (think potentiometers with haptic feedback) are expensive and I need like 15 of them for my project (maybe 4-5 different detent levels, which means no bulk discounts :/ ).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Question&lt;/strong&gt;: How would you guys 3D print haptic feedback for potentiometers?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please consider:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;My project would have a 3D-printed faceplate and caps for all potentiometers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I have an idea in my mind but I think friction will wear it down quite quickly. I would print sunken dots on the faceplate and a raised dot on the potentiometer cap to fit into the sunken dots on the faceplate. Also, I am worried the cap would just raise itself away from the faceplate and render the sunken dots useless.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="38995" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2023-07-03T12:41:45.613" LastActivityDate="2023-07-03T12:41:45.613" Title="Print detents for potentiometers" Tags="|3d-design|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21124" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-07-03T11:27:37.080" Score="0" ViewCount="92" Body="&lt;p&gt;So, I was 3D printing a shark and a portal toy to sell for my company &lt;a href=&quot;https://docs.google.com/forms/d/1dEimYL2yq9XMLXeGYUrRHbM-WuOdolGOpMHGh6QdBHQ/edit?pli=1&amp;amp;pli=1&amp;amp;pli=1&amp;amp;no_redirect=true&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;CCChoice&lt;/a&gt; overnight. I woke up in the morning to find the nozzle only hanging on by that one wire in the black mesh casing (images below). Every other place it was supposed to be attached it was detached from. The print didn't go too well either (image below). I don't know what attaches to what and where and am really confused. My backup printer is also out with a heating issue so I really have a problem. So, what caused this and how can I fix it, preferably without spending a bunch of money or taking a long time?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;NOTE: I have an Ender 3 v2 Pro and use Ultimaker Cura with Polymaker's PLA 1 kg Orange filament and an 0.04 mm nozzle&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kCbu5.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Photo of the hotend assembly fallen off of the X carriage&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kCbu5.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Photo of the hotend assembly fallen off of the X carriage&quot; title=&quot;Photo of the hotend assembly fallen off of the X carriage&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0GwSx.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;3D printed model turned into 'spaghetti'&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0GwSx.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;3D printed model turned into 'spaghetti'&quot; title=&quot;3D printed model turned into 'spaghetti'&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="38999" LastEditorUserId="2338" LastEditDate="2023-07-06T14:18:11.053" LastActivityDate="2023-12-03T16:08:46.070" Title="Ender 3 v2 Pro issue where nozzle has nearly fallen off" Tags="|creality-ender-3|nozzle|creality|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21125" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21124" CreationDate="2023-07-03T12:11:37.830" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;So, I eventually managed to fix this, &lt;strong&gt;but it only works for a few hours before the problem repeats. A full solution is welcome&lt;/strong&gt;. Here is an image below of a closeup&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6zGkD.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Closeup photo of the points that attached the hotend assembly to the X carriage&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6zGkD.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Closeup photo of the points that attached the hotend assembly to the X carriage&quot; title=&quot;Closeup photo of the points that attached the hotend assembly to the X carriage&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See that bottom black circle with 2 red circles inside of it? If you connect the 2 red circles then it will attach itself and the 2 red circles in the higher black circle will also latch together, reattaching the nozzle firmly. I still don’t know why this happened, but now it’s working.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WNdmX.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Photo of the hotend assembly reattached to the X carriage&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WNdmX.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Photo of the hotend assembly reattached to the X carriage&quot; title=&quot;Photo of the hotend assembly reattached to the X carriage&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="38999" LastEditorUserId="38999" LastEditDate="2023-07-05T11:19:24.010" LastActivityDate="2023-07-05T11:19:24.010" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21126" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20613" CreationDate="2023-07-04T01:58:32.883" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't know how useful this will be for you now, but I do have a couple of tidbits of info to help others who may have this question and find yours:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You can replace the stock screws on the Plate that carries the extruder (Carriage). The stock ones are (I believe) M5x30 mm screws, you can replace the top right and bottom (when looking at the carriage from the front) screws with M5x25 mm screws. If you put them in from the back, and use a shorter nut, you can achieve the same range of motion you normally have with the stock extruder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If you're configuring your own firmware, in &lt;code&gt;Configuration_adv.h&lt;/code&gt; in the Marlin Firmware source files, you will find a section called @section Leveling. Here, you can modify the probing margins per axis, per value. You can set both the &lt;code&gt;MESH_MIN&lt;/code&gt; and &lt;code&gt;MESH_MAX&lt;/code&gt; distances for both X and Y axis.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It should look something like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;    #if EITHER(MESH_BED_LEVELING, AUTO_BED_LEVELING_UBL)&#xA;      // Override the mesh area if the automatic (max) area is too large&#xA;      #define MESH_MIN_X 20&#xA;      #define MESH_MIN_Y 20&#xA;      #define MESH_MAX_X X_MAX_POS - 48&#xA;      #define MESH_MAX_Y Y_BED_SIZE - (20)&#xA;    #endif&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="39007" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2023-07-04T03:09:07.760" LastActivityDate="2023-07-04T03:09:07.760" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21128" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18549" CreationDate="2023-07-04T03:40:54.873" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;To add to Perry's answer, which is already very informative:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PETG is subject to creep (permanent deformation under continuous mechanical load), especially at temperatures above room temperature. As a result, many 3D printer designs utilizing printed parts caution against using PETG. PET is generally regarded as not subject to creep below around 80°C.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unlike PETG, which is amorphous and does not crystallize, PET can be annealed (made to crystallize intentionally after printing is complete) at temperatures between 80 and 100 °C, after which it can handle loads at higher temperatures, reportedly up to 100 °C. However, annealing produces some dimensional changes, which may make it difficult to utilize this property.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PETG has considerably lower glass transition temperature, melting point, and heat deflection temperature than PET.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While this varies by PETG formulation, generally PET can (and often must, due to crystallization concerns when printing slow) be printed at much higher speeds than PETG.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PETG gunks up and sticks badly to most nozzle materials when printing. Certain coated nozzles, and tungsten carbide nozzles, can significantly reduce but not eliminate this effect. PET does not gunk up or stick to the nozzle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PET is less sensitive to buildplate temperature, and can even be printed on an unheated bed, although this may lead to corners lifting without sufficient adhesion. PETG is very hard to print well without high bed temperature; layer delamination and failure of first or second layer to adhere are common issues with insufficient heat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PET has extreme layer bonding, giving near or fully isotropic part strength. PETG generally has issues with delamination/separation at layer lines. In my experience, it is far worse than PLA in this regard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2023-07-04T03:40:54.873" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21129" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21118" CreationDate="2023-07-04T03:54:24.503" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cura by default prefixes the saved g-code with the machine name, I take it yours is named Printrbot Simple Metal or something similar, so Cura assigns it the &amp;quot;PS-&amp;quot; prefix.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To disable this, you can click on 'Preferences' in Menu Bar on the top left of the Window, and go to &lt;code&gt;Preferences &amp;gt; General &amp;gt; Opening and Saving Files&lt;/code&gt; and deselect the option &amp;quot;Add machine prefix to job name.&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also save your 3D model files as auto0.g, and when Cura loads, slices, and then saves the G-Code file, it will be named auto0.g.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Beyond that, there's the little Pen/Paper icon in the bottom left, just above the perspective buttons (cubes) to rename the file before saving it. AFAIK, there is no way to save the G-Code automatically with a different name than the file/model you loaded into it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="39007" LastActivityDate="2023-07-04T03:54:24.503" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21130" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21104" CreationDate="2023-07-04T04:10:06.280" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It just depends on your set-up. Ideally, you don't want to have the filament entering the extruder at too great of an angle, so depending on where your extruder is and how filament is fed into it will determine which way your spool should go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="39007" LastActivityDate="2023-07-04T04:10:06.280" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21131" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21145" CreationDate="2023-07-04T04:16:24.387" Score="0" ViewCount="136" Body="&lt;p&gt;1.Active chamber heating (fan forced convection +heating bed +PTC heater) vs 2.Passive chamber heating(natural convection+ heating bed)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the book &amp;quot;3D Printing Failures_ 2020 Edition_ How to Diagnose and Repair ALL Desktop 3D Printing Issues&amp;quot; writen by Aranda, Sean, it is said less cooling rate could let polymer have more temperature and time to release stress. This is the reason why chamber heating is used. But&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In the design 1 chamber above bed is already &amp;gt;50℃ with 120℃ heating bed.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In another design &amp;quot;120℃ bed with PTC supplyment which is cycled by a fan and the chamber can be up to &amp;gt;60℃&amp;quot;. It forms forced convection, so the printed part may be cooled quickly even though the chamber has up to 60℃ temperature(the temperature difference between printed layer and ambient changes slightly).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oqLH9.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oqLH9.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So why we use chamber heating with fan forced convection design other than natural convection deign?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Printed material: ABS&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bed temperature: 120℃&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37409" LastEditorUserId="37409" LastEditDate="2023-07-05T08:03:59.247" LastActivityDate="2023-07-05T08:03:59.247" Title="Will active chamber heating with heating bed and PTC heater (forced convection by fan) be better than passive chamber heating with only bed?" Tags="|heated-bed|abs|heat-management|warping|chamber|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21133" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-07-04T05:18:54.440" Score="1" ViewCount="41" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been using SuperSlicer for a while and I really like it, but it's unstable and crashes a lot. I want to get away from it, and PrusaSlicer looked great but every print I've done with it has this issue. It's like it lays down so much plastic that it builds up higher than the nozzle can reach, and the hot nozzle just smears it everywhere.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What should I do about this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm using an Ender 5 with Creality PLA. My settings are default for both slicers, except setting the infill to 100% for the below prints. Left is from PrusaSlicer, right is from SuperSlicer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nE2tN.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Printed dice&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nE2tN.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Printed dice&quot; title=&quot;Printed dice&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="39009" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2023-07-04T05:34:59.510" LastActivityDate="2023-07-04T05:34:59.510" Title="Why is PrusaSlicer squishing filament everywhere?" Tags="|print-quality|troubleshooting|creality-ender-5|prusaslicer|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21134" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-07-04T06:36:40.610" Score="0" ViewCount="87" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ok, I know this is quite weird since basically, we want to avoid elephant's foot.&#xA;But my case is: I want to print some thin/tall stuff which I don't want to lay them down and sometimes it gives me some warped outcomes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I try some different things and find it if I manually add a thin but big first few layers. It will generate a pretty good result consistently. (And the &amp;quot;Manually Added Elephant Foot&amp;quot; is also easy to be removed)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm wondering if I can let the slicer help me add the &amp;quot;elephant foot&amp;quot; as a kind of &amp;quot;support&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can someone help me to do that or tell me actually I cannot do that?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="39011" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2023-07-04T13:09:28.637" LastActivityDate="2023-07-04T19:12:29.903" Title="Add &quot;Elephant's Foot&quot; in Cura" Tags="|slicing|support-structures|warping|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21135" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21104" CreationDate="2023-07-04T11:22:33.913" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As Echo has said, it's not really that big of a deal. I usually just stick to having the filament coming over the spool and I've rarely seen it another way. It's what made sense to me with the fact I have a stand for the spools attached to the frame of the printer along the top. It's really just personal preference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="39012" LastActivityDate="2023-07-04T11:22:33.913" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21136" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-07-04T13:42:44.270" Score="0" ViewCount="39" Body="&lt;p&gt;I encountered a case of pillowing throughout several layers that was very severe, however, I managed to fix it through adjusting the temperatures but I was wondering if anyone could tell me if there any any other cases of this and if they have found a trustworthy way to solve the problem if it occurs repeatedly as it has slowly started to re-appear in different prints after I have rectified the problem, and I haven't altered any of the previous settings I altered to fix it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/m7USo.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/m7USo.png&quot; alt=&quot;same problem as I'm encountering&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am now encountering this problem again and I really don't know what can cause it, I'm unable to dehydrate my filament anyway due to a lack of means to do so and I used a brand new spool to print this piece that has had pillowing yesterday (July 6th)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="39012" LastEditorUserId="39012" LastEditDate="2023-07-07T07:26:36.097" LastActivityDate="2023-07-07T07:26:36.097" Title="Prusa MK3s+, Prusa PETG 1.75mm filament" Tags="|prusa-i3|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21142" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21134" CreationDate="2023-07-04T16:53:01.233" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Use a brim:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(I'll assume you're using Cura since you didn't provide FCI.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Navigate to &lt;strong&gt;Print Settings&lt;/strong&gt; &amp;gt; &lt;strong&gt;Build Plate Adhesion&lt;/strong&gt; and select &lt;strong&gt;Brim&lt;/strong&gt; on the &lt;strong&gt;Build Plate Adhesion Type&lt;/strong&gt; dropdown.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could also use a raft though it seems unwise in this case. For more on brims and rafts, see All3DP.com's article &amp;quot;&lt;a href=&quot;https://all3dp.com/2/3d-printing-raft-brim-and-skirt-all-you-need-to-know/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Raft vs Brim vs Skirt: The Differences (incl. Cura settings)&lt;/a&gt;&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="38544" LastEditorUserId="38544" LastEditDate="2023-07-04T19:12:29.903" LastActivityDate="2023-07-04T19:12:29.903" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21143" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17870" CreationDate="2023-07-04T21:47:26.360" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;if the connection to the heaters (nozzle and bed) are not broken and work during printing,&#xA;and if the thermistor is reading the correct temperature,&#xA;then maybe it is the power supply.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;During printing the stepper motors are also consuming energy. If the energy output of the power supply is not enough for the stepper motors and the heaters than the temperatures could go down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But such an undervoltage situation should also be noticeable in other parts of the printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Therefore to be sure that the thermistors are working, try to measure the temperatures with a thermometer. This way you can verify that the temperature change is real.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another test would be to remove the filament before printing and print without filament. This way the nozzle heater will use much less power, with everything else being the same.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The nozzle heater is temperature controlled. When printing with filament the pushed in filament will cool the nozzle and the heater needs to heat the nozzle up again. With no filament pushed through the nozzle basically stays at the temperature, only cooled by the surrounding air. Therefore much less energy is needed to keep the nozzle at temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the issue is with the bed heater then move the bed to different positions and wait if the temperature stays the same. If the temperature goes down in a position then the cable for the heater is broken and makes no contact went bend for that position.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="204" LastEditorUserId="204" LastEditDate="2023-07-05T11:44:04.503" LastActivityDate="2023-07-05T11:44:04.503" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21144" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21136" CreationDate="2023-07-04T21:50:28.947" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Without an example photo, it's difficult to be certain, but moisture in a filament spool can cause undesired effects in a print. Even a new-in-the-box, vacuum-sealed-plastic-bag spool can present these effects.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Consider to perform a &lt;a href=&quot;https://lmgtfy.app/?q=how%20to%20dry%203d%20printer%20filament&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;dehydration&lt;/a&gt; on your filament and create another test print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastActivityDate="2023-07-04T21:50:28.947" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21145" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21131" CreationDate="2023-07-05T07:39:14.853" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Having forced convection allows to flow air on top of the heater so that more heat will be pushed into the chamber. Also, it makes the chamber uniform.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are barely heating the chamber (50 °C) the bed can already do it, while forced will cool down the part more quickly. Forced convection has almost only downsides, no advantages.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are heating the chamber to higher temperatures like 70-120 °C or more, the printed part has no problem about being cooled too much, and at the same time the bed set at 120 °C will not be able to heat up the chamber that much (or you need 2 cm thermal insulation around the chamber). Forced in this case has no downsides and only advantages.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2338" LastActivityDate="2023-07-05T07:39:14.853" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21146" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13294" CreationDate="2023-07-05T12:54:05.903" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Additionally for those who may not know, (I'm fully aware this post is a few years old) there are improvements that come with PrusaSlicer 2.6 in terms of options for cutting prints along a plane, adding pegs to those cut prints and organic supports, just for those who may not be aware.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additional details can be found in the article from Tom's Hardware &amp;quot;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.tomshardware.com/news/new-features-added-to-prusaslicer-26-alpha-release&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;New Features Added to PrusaSlicer 2.6 Alpha Release&lt;/a&gt;&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="39012" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2023-07-05T13:05:54.287" LastActivityDate="2023-07-05T13:05:54.287" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21147" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-07-05T15:05:03.403" Score="2" ViewCount="214" Body="&lt;p&gt;I received a completely new Elegoo Neptune 3 pro a few days ago and it prints very well. But there is one thing that bothers me a little bit, the lines next to each other when looking from above are a little bit separated:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/w4L4X.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Photo of the first few layers of a 3D printed model&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/w4L4X.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Photo of the first few layers of a 3D printed model&quot; title=&quot;Photo of the first few layers of a 3D printed model&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The photo is not really good but you can see it a little bit on the screw holes on the bottom. In reality, it is worse. I already tried adjusting the line width up by 0.05 but it didn't help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which other settings would make it better or do I just need to do much more width?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My settings:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Infill density: 15%&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Quality: 0.2 mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Temp: 200 °C&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Build Plate Temp: 60 °C&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Line width: 0.47 mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Speed: 60 mm/s&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Material: PLA&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="39034" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2023-07-05T17:30:18.380" LastActivityDate="2023-07-10T18:45:10.227" Title="Lines next to each other separated; is this right?" Tags="|print-quality|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21148" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-07-06T07:58:40.767" Score="0" ViewCount="32" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've recently tried printing something I've printed multiple times but this time it isn’t printing much at all. It seems to inly be printing a very small film of filament rather than a solid layer in places and even on the solid base layer the first time I tried printing it. I'm not sure whether it could be an under extrusion problem or I might even have to raise the z calibration. Has anyone seen this before and does anyone have any possible solutions? Would be much appreciated I need to set this print going ASAP&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nNkXY.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nNkXY.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Yd8VK.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Yd8VK.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="39012" LastEditorUserId="39012" LastEditDate="2023-07-06T08:40:03.367" LastActivityDate="2023-08-05T21:05:05.533" Title="Prusa MK3s+ potential extrusion problem" Tags="|prusa-i3|prusaslicer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21149" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21148" CreationDate="2023-07-06T09:11:44.993" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I figured out that it was due to the Z axis calibration on my Prusa MK3S+ so I started a &amp;quot;First Layer Calibration&amp;quot; and reset the variable previously used to get a more accurate calibration&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="39012" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2023-07-06T20:59:02.443" LastActivityDate="2023-07-06T20:59:02.443" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21150" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-07-06T11:29:22.723" Score="3" ViewCount="290" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have managed to strip the threads on the mounting holes of the motor.&#xA;The extruder motor doesn't stay in place of the Bowden mount. It kinks to the left-hand side when the motor is extruding.&#xA;I was wondering if could I repair the stripped hole or do I need a new motor?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4408" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2023-07-06T13:24:05.903" LastActivityDate="2023-12-04T07:12:55.903" Title="Stripped screw hole on 3D printer extruder motor" Tags="|motor|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21151" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21150" CreationDate="2023-07-06T14:05:34.957" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;By the sound of it however, I would replace the damaged part as if the motor doesn't stay on the extruder, and there is a kink in extruding, I suggest replacing the part rather then trying a quick fix and it doing either nothing or making things worse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="39012" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2023-12-04T07:11:28.987" LastActivityDate="2023-12-04T07:11:28.987" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21152" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-07-06T17:07:51.733" Score="0" ViewCount="1248" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not new to 3D printing, but I have always used resin 3D printers. Now I have bought an Anycubic Kobra and I'm trying out ABS.&#xA;I can't figure out what I'm doing wrong, I have tried many different settings, but I am skeptic to move away too much from the recommended settings of Anycubic that can be found on their website.&#xA;As per picutres below, my prints keep failing in the initial layers, but I can't figure out what is wrong. Is it layer height?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The temperature I use is 100°C/250°C. All the rest is default settings of Anycubic because I'm not sure what I should try.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UHe6Y.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UHe6Y.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Picture 1&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wFoUq.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wFoUq.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Picture 2&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yjPbY.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yjPbY.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Picture 3&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20172" LastActivityDate="2023-12-04T14:03:00.393" Title="Print in the first layers keeps failing on new Anycubic Kobra" Tags="|layer-height|print-failure|anycubic-kobra-max|anycubic-kobra-neo|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21153" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21150" CreationDate="2023-07-07T01:24:54.573" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are several different fixes for this if you have the materials on hand and a bit of experience with them:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You can try to remove the top plate and re-tap the holes to fit a slightly bigger screw. This may require re-drilling the holes on the top motor plate, as well as the holes in the mounting bracket. You'll need a bench-mounted vice to hold the motor plate in place, as well as a drill, small drill bits, the tapping tool (I suggest a hand tapper if this is your first time) some lubricant, and the larger screws. It may be more cost-effective to just buy a new motor. If you intend to go down this option, I suggest looking up several youtube videos on how to drill and tap holes before you begin and keep in mind that there are sensitive parts on the inside of the motor, so you really should remove the top plate before drilling/tapping.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If your printer is printing &amp;quot;good enough&amp;quot; you can try printing a plastic mount to hold the motor in place. Just a note, this is not going to be a permanent fix, as the plastic can and will break down over time and use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If neither of the top two options sounds appealing, I highly suggest you take the advice from &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/21151/&quot;&gt;this answer&lt;/a&gt; and just buy a new motor. It will definitely be easier work for you to replace the motor than repair it, and it may end up being more cost-effective.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="39007" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2023-12-04T07:12:55.903" LastActivityDate="2023-12-04T07:12:55.903" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21154" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21152" CreationDate="2023-07-07T05:40:50.557" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This looks like &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.3dsourced.com/guides/3d-print-first-layer-problems/#nozzle-close&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;over-extrusion on the first layer&lt;/a&gt;. There are a number of reasons why this could be happening, but usually, it's because the nozzle is too close to the bed. The link posted is a huge resource for getting a decent first layer.&#xA;You'll need to &lt;em&gt;tram&lt;/em&gt; or level the bed. (Tramming is the proper term, but the two are used interchangeably) To do this you can follow the guide in the link provided, though I'll also type my personal process out here if you want to read it twice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll need:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A piece of regular printer paper&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A way to interface with your printer, the normal control screen is fine&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your printer&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I like to have a light shine behind the printer as I do this, it's not necessary&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You can replace the piece of paper with a set of feeler gauges if you have them, we'll use the 0.2 mm one.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To properly tram the bed:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Home the X, Y, and Z axes&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Move the print head/nozzle/hotend to the back-left corner.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Set the Z-axis height to 0.1 mm, this is the average width of a piece of printer paper. Or, if you're using the 0.2 mm feeler gauge, set it to 0.2 mm.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If your bed sits higher or lower than your printer expects (for example, if you've replaced the stock bed) you may have to set this higher or lower to compensate for the width of the new bed.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Slide the piece of paper under the nozzle, in between it and the bed, and slowly adjust the knob until you feel some resistance while sliding the paper. You don't want a lot of resistance, just a little scratchy feeling is what you'll want.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Repeat step 5 for the back right, front right, and front left corners (in that order).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Go back to the back left corner and re-do the paper process again for all of the corners a couple more times, just to make sure it's well within the range.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Validate your tramming with a &lt;a href=&quot;https://thangs.com/search/bed%20level%20test?scope=all&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;bed level test&lt;/a&gt;. This will show you if your corners/center are within tolerance or not, so you know where to make adjustments.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lastly, &lt;a href=&quot;https://all3dp.com/1/common-3d-printing-problems-troubleshooting-3d-printer-issues/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here's a resource for some of the more common problems&lt;/a&gt; FDM printers face. I hope this wasn't a massive info dump, all at once, and that this helps you resolve the issue you're having!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="39007" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2023-07-07T13:25:15.360" LastActivityDate="2023-07-07T13:25:15.360" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21155" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-07-07T09:38:14.577" Score="0" ViewCount="27" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got an Anet A6, modified with bed-leveling sensor etc., which has given me good service for several years. I'm not in a position to spend lots of money on anything fancier, since at present at least it's not immediately contributing to my business.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I almost always have problems extracting the filament after use, and I believe this is getting worse. It's inclined to clump at the bottom, and from the feel I'd say that it's binding at the bottom of the PTFE tube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not looking forward to stripping things down, since I've got the relative height of the sensor and head calibrated &amp;quot;just right&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anybody know of any issues relating to these heads as shipped, e.g. batches going out with liners made of something which isn't quite PTFE?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively, are there any specific points that I should be looking for? One particular thing that occurs to me as I type is a difference between the diameter of the holes in the nozzle and the PTFE liner resulting in a step at the bottom.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="39062" LastActivityDate="2023-07-07T09:38:14.577" Title="Anet A6: known hotend problems?" Tags="|hotend|anet-a6|filament-jam|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21157" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-07-07T15:04:31.480" Score="-1" ViewCount="377" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently had a big mess in my printer head in my AnkerMake M5 and had to replace the entire print head. When I replaced it, I went to test the axes to make sure they were still aligned, but now I'm getting a Z-axis homing error. I've noticed that while homing, it moves down, up, then down again, but the second time it goes down, only one side goes down (the left side). I'm not sure what to do about it and Anker's help pages aren't seeming to help me either.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.imgur.com/ymC2TxB.mp4&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;video&lt;/a&gt; showing the behavior.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not quite sure how to diagnose this, any tips?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="39069" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2023-07-07T17:12:54.347" LastActivityDate="2023-12-04T19:04:45.633" Title="AnkerMake M5 Z-axis homing fail" Tags="|homing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21158" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21157" CreationDate="2023-07-07T18:42:45.327" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;AnkerMake seems to be aware of this problem. Their support website has a section dedicated to &lt;a href=&quot;https://support.ankermake.com/s/article/How-to-fix-homing-fail&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;correcting homing failures here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Besides this, you'll want to make sure you didn't accidentally unplug or tug on other cables while replacing the printer head. Make sure &lt;em&gt;all&lt;/em&gt; of the connections are snug, and the pins are pushed in all the way. Also make sure that the Z-axis lead screws aren't bent or sideways, as this can cause binding which could be stopping your right side from lowering properly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="39007" LastActivityDate="2023-07-07T18:42:45.327" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21159" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-07-07T20:15:45.027" Score="1" ViewCount="263" Body="&lt;p&gt;For the current range of Bambu Printers (P1P\X1-Carbon). If you store your files in the cloud and initiate a print through the phone app to the printer using wifi, what happens to the print if the printer loses wifi connectivity for an extended period of time during the printing process and is unable to recover it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, if you are 1 hour into a 5 hour print will it continue to print as normal until the print is complete using a cached copy of the file that it downloaded during that first hour, but without app connectivity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or will it simply stop and wait for the user to perform a corrective action.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="29097" LastActivityDate="2023-07-07T20:15:45.027" Title="What happens to Bambu printers if they loose wifi connectivity during a print and are unable to recover it?" Tags="|bambu|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21160" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-07-08T10:48:30.613" Score="2" ViewCount="712" Body="&lt;p&gt;When printing with basic budget PLA, what are the consequences of having it slightly over temperature. For example 5-10 deg above the recommended temperature for the brand, or significantly over temperature such as 50 deg?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How will this be seen on the print, and what are the inherent risks - if any - to the printer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Presuming that the print is allowed to complete, and there are no other external factors that might effect either the printer or the print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="29097" LastActivityDate="2023-07-25T22:46:32.463" Title="What are the consequences of printing PLA at too high a temperature?" Tags="|print-material|temperature|quality|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21161" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21160" CreationDate="2023-07-08T12:22:57.570" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If it is only a little higher, the properties of the plastic may not be ideal and it may reduce part quality.  For example, it may be less viscous and drool out the nozzle faster over empty spaces, causing stringing and bridges may sag more than they would at a lower temperature.  There may be some benefits though.  For instance, layer adhesion might be better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it is a lot higher, the plastic could burn instead of melting.  If it burns inside the nozzle, it may clog the nozzle.  It may also smoke and/or emit toxic fumes.  (Although the burning fumes are much worse for other plastics like ABS and nylon.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28397" LastActivityDate="2023-07-08T12:22:57.570" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21162" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-07-08T13:55:44.923" Score="0" ViewCount="49" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just got my first 3D printer (Ender 3 V2) 3 days ago and at first it was printing fine but yesterday it started painting dotted lines. I heard it could be a clog so I changed the Nozzle after trying to clean it (Didn't fix it). Then I replaced the Bowden tubes and made sure there was no filament jammed in the hot piece. After doing this the printer sometimes prints straight solid lines but most of the time either no filament comes out or it is dotted. What can this be and how can I fix it? I think it got clogged in the first place because the nozzle was too close to the plate so what would be a good Z index while printing? Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="39079" LastActivityDate="2023-07-08T13:55:44.923" Title="Ender 3 v2 Print not consistent" Tags="|creality-ender-3|underextrusion|filament-jam|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21163" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21093" CreationDate="2023-07-09T15:44:37.010" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've changed the probe to a CR-10 model. The one with the metal pin. No Issues anymore. I didn't even change the wire. So either the probe or the pin was bad. ‍♂️&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user31236" LastActivityDate="2023-07-09T15:44:37.010" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21164" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21175" CreationDate="2023-07-09T16:14:05.073" Score="1" ViewCount="1650" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7l1x4.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7l1x4.png&quot; alt=&quot;Red wheel does not touch aluminium beam&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;Red wheel does not touch aluminium beam&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was checking the POM wheels of my printer, since I have a minor banding issue with my prints.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I noticed that the wheel marked in red never touches the beam no matter how tight the eccentric nut on the right green wheel is tightened.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Things I have already tried:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Replacing all three POM wheels&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tightening eccentric nut on the right wheel&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check if the z-axis beams are square&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Making sure the holes on the bracket and on the gantry are square/centered&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas on what the root cause the problem could be? I am thinking the easiest solution would be to add a second eccentric nut to the offending wheel?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="39088" LastActivityDate="2023-07-12T06:11:27.530" Title="One of my Ender 3 gantry POM wheels never touches z-axis aluminium beam" Tags="|creality-ender-3|troubleshooting|pom|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21165" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-07-09T19:01:13.680" Score="0" ViewCount="155" Body="&lt;p&gt;Strange problem: I start atoleveling process and see this message:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KJ39J.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KJ39J.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I touch nozzle and red lamp is on&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aY3jP.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aY3jP.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But nothing happens. Since one or two minutes I get message&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/j3NHP.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/j3NHP.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How to solve this issue? Anycubic support tells that is cable problem, but I need to wait about two months to get new cable. May be anyone can help?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="39090" LastActivityDate="2023-07-09T19:01:13.680" Title="Anycubic Vyper autoleveling not starting" Tags="|calibration|automatic-bed-leveling|anycubic-vyper|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21166" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-07-09T21:05:43.597" Score="-1" ViewCount="134" Body="&lt;p&gt;While printing flat surfaces the filament would begin to retract by itself, even if the printer is actively extruding it. I've been remedying it by occasionally pushing the filament by hand, has anyone had this issue in the past or has any idea how to fix it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Slicer: Cura v.5.4.0&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Retraction: off&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Flow rate: 75% (calibrated after installing new extruder)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Printer: Ender 3&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Leveling done via BLTouch (Z offset calibrated to be 0.1 mm from print bed)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;E steps calibrated properly&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hotend temp: 200 °C&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Print bed temp: 50 °C&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Filament type: PLA&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Filament brand: Creality grey 1 kg&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="39093" LastEditorUserId="39093" LastEditDate="2023-07-11T21:47:16.880" LastActivityDate="2023-12-08T23:01:50.177" Title="Ender 3 filament retracts on its own" Tags="|extruder|filament|retraction|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21168" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-07-10T16:49:51.897" Score="0" ViewCount="429" Body="&lt;p&gt;TL;DR: When powered off (default state) the Pi powers the Ender's MCU through USB and all is well, but when I switch on the power through G-code I get&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lost communication with MCU 'mcu'&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm quite certain I'm not the first one to have this happen, but searching hasn't gotten me the answer yet, probably due to the fact that searching for the error message only gives unrelated answers. My Ender 3v2 (4.2.2 mainboard) is set up such that my Raspberry Pi 3 B+ switches on the power supply through a relay controlled by GPIO.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Macro (which seems to run fine as it does the switching):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;    # Turns on printer&#xA;    [output_pin printer_power]&#xA;    pin: rpi:gpio17&#xA;    &#xA;    # Printer power ON&#xA;    [gcode_macro POWER_ON]&#xA;    gcode:&#xA;        SET_PIN PIN=printer_power VALUE=1&#xA;    &#xA;    # Printer power OFF&#xA;    [gcode_macro POWER_OFF]&#xA;    gcode:&#xA;        SET_PIN PIN=printer_power VALUE=0&#xA;&#xA;gpioinfo pin 17:&#xA;&#xA;     line  17:     &amp;quot;GPIO17&amp;quot;    &amp;quot;klipper&amp;quot;  output  active-high [used]&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I use the commands &lt;code&gt;POWER_ON&lt;/code&gt; and &lt;code&gt;POWER_OFF&lt;/code&gt; in the slicer G-code, where they are either first or last. (edit: don't power off the printer through the slicer if you want to see succesful prints in your overview - practically it works fine but it's much better to let the printer auto power off from idle, see &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/jschuh/klipper-macros&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://github.com/jschuh/klipper-macros&lt;/a&gt; for example)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I use my slicer to send a file to the printer it starts and runs for about three seconds as it starts homing axes, and then the error&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lost communication with MCU 'mcu'&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;appears and the printer hurts itself in its confusion, but when I use the commands through mainsail it works just fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope someone knows how to avoid this, might just be an electrical issue (immediate instructions/power draw on startup?) that I need to circumvent somehow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="39103" LastEditorUserId="39103" LastEditDate="2023-07-26T23:13:50.627" LastActivityDate="2023-12-24T00:10:16.257" Title="Switching power ON with RPi loses connection with MCU (Ender 3v2/Klipper/Mainsail)" Tags="|creality-ender-3|raspberry-pi|klipper|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21169" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21147" CreationDate="2023-07-10T18:45:10.227" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;When gaps happen on &lt;strong&gt;the first layer of the print&lt;/strong&gt;, this is caused by the first layer Z being too high, so that the extrusion is not being properly flattened between the build plate and the nozzle. (If the height is too low instead, then you will get ripples visible in large bottom infill areas.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If they happen &lt;strong&gt;throughout the print&lt;/strong&gt; then the extruder is &lt;strong&gt;under-extruding&lt;/strong&gt; — less volume of plastic is being deposited than the slicer thinks will be. This means that one of these might be the case:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Something physical is causing the filament to slip as the extruder motor pushes it:&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Drive gear teeth clogged (poor grip)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Nozzle clogged (increases back-pressure)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Temperature too low (increases back-pressure)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your filament is narrower than your slicer expects. Measure it with calipers (at several rotations in case it is not entirely round) and enter the actual diameter into the slicer.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your filament is soft or otherwise oddly behaved, and doesn't interact with the extruder gears like the extruder design assumed it would.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The printer's firmware is incorrectly configured for the extruder hardware; it is not sending the correct number of steps per requested length of filament.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a “quick fix” or to compensate for properties of a particular filament, you can set an “extrusion multiplier” to scale up or down the amount of plastic extruded. However, if the problem is happening for many ordinary filaments, then there is more likely a printer problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Changing the slicer's line width will not help, because that will make the lines farther apart at the same time as it extrudes more volume per line.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10321" LastActivityDate="2023-07-10T18:45:10.227" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21170" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7891" CreationDate="2023-07-11T04:51:45.823" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Perhaps a slicer is not the ideal tool for this application.  It should be possible to use the slicer to generate a 'framework' file, doing coordinate conversions, setup and such, and then write raw G-code or a script to do so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whether you find that a desirable approach is another question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19058" LastActivityDate="2023-07-11T04:51:45.823" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21171" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21166" CreationDate="2023-07-11T09:14:54.430" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;This can happen if your nozzle is too close to the bed (too low Z-offset). Check your first layer thickness. It should be a slightly squished bead. Not a smeared line.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the nozzle is too close to the bed, the filament can't come out and the extruder skips steps. When a bowden extruder skips steps, the filament is actually retracted a bit because of the tension built up in the tube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4708" LastActivityDate="2023-07-11T09:14:54.430" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21173" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-07-11T14:02:51.370" Score="0" ViewCount="42" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an Ender 3 and have a similar problem as mentioned in &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/q/20687/&quot;&gt;I have an Ender-3 Pro, the platform goes to the right rear every time I try to start a print job&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My hotend and build plate reach temp, BLTouch homes centre of build plate, plate moves forward then &amp;quot;grinding noise&amp;quot; hotend moves to right at the rear of plate and starts to extrude filament then I have to reboot, reheat bed and hotend, select model and print this enables it to print. I have replaced the mother board, flashed with latest Marlin firmware: but this made no difference!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The fact that it prints after reboot suggest to me it can't be a firmware issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="39109" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2023-07-13T09:36:10.497" LastActivityDate="2023-07-13T09:36:10.497" Title="Hotend moves to rear of build plate and extrudes" Tags="|creality-ender-3|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21174" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21173" CreationDate="2023-07-12T06:07:58.780" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is very hard to answer as there is not much information to solve this, read this answer as an advice to troubleshoot the problem. You should create some basic G-code files manually to sort this out to e.g. rule out slicing problems (this is where the question is not clear about).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically, the printer knows the coordinate system once it has homed all axes when properly configured in firmware. So, creating a basic file containing homing &lt;code&gt;G28&lt;/code&gt;, leveling &lt;code&gt;G29&lt;/code&gt;. Now, the print head should be at the last probed position. You now could add &lt;code&gt;G0 X0 Y0 F400&lt;/code&gt; to slowly advance to the origin. You can add another line to move to the max X, Y position, &lt;code&gt;G0 X200 Y200 F400&lt;/code&gt; (200 x 200 mm bed assumed). If the head positions correctly, your firmware is okay, you then need to find the solution in the slicing, else you need to fix the firmware settings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2023-07-12T06:07:58.780" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21175" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21164" CreationDate="2023-07-12T06:11:27.530" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your right (undriven) side Z carriage is out of square, and is deflecting the gantry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Imagine the left side Z carriage wasn't attched to the gantry at all, just on its own. The only way one of the two wheels without the eccentric nut, on the outer side, could be loose, is if the wheel with the eccentric nut, on the inner side, were not tight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So start by disassembling the system and attaching the gantry only on the driven-side carriage, i.e. in a cantilever configuration. Do this without the X carriage attached so gravity isn't fighting it, and ensure it's square to the frame and that the eccentric nut is tightened enough there's no play. You should be able to rotate any one of the wheels with manual force while holding another still, but if you don't hold one still, rotating any wheel by hand should move the carriage and cause all three wheels to turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's possible that the bolts holding the gantry to the carriage don't have it aligned square; if it's off, you'll have to take it off the top to adjust. These bolts need to be &lt;em&gt;really tight&lt;/em&gt; or they'll tend to self-loosen and throw everything out of wack again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you have the driven-side carriage bolted to the gantry tightly square, it's time to do the undriven side. Start by adjusting the eccentric nut to get the carriage snug, and only then bolt it to the gantry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Confirm that it moves all the way up and down the Z axis without binding. If the Z extrusions are not parallel or if either of them is bent, you'll have problems and you need to go back and fix that before connecting the undriven side to the gantry again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2023-07-12T06:11:27.530" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21176" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-07-12T20:32:21.833" Score="1" ViewCount="165" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd like to know how to estimate the maximum speed of a stepper motor before the torque drop-off. There are several existing calculators of varying degrees of complexity for that:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;RepRap &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.reprapfirmware.org/emf.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;calculator&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Alex Kenis provides a &lt;a href=&quot;https://alexkenis.wordpress.com/2018/03/06/supplemental-equations-and-links-for-stepper-motor-calculations/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;spreadsheet&lt;/a&gt; (see also links therein)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Many thanks to Ryan Carlyle for his answer to &amp;quot;&lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/625/&quot;&gt;Real life stepper speed&lt;/a&gt;&amp;quot; here on 3D Printing.SE&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Zalophus Dokdo's &lt;a href=&quot;https://zalophusdokdo.github.io/StepperMotorsCalculator/en/index.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Stepper Motors Calculator&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;CNC.xyz's &lt;a href=&quot;https://wiki.cnc.xyz/Stepper_Motor_Calculations&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Stepper Motor Calculations&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, some of them simply don't explain all the math behind the numbers, there are differences &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/625/&quot;&gt;see issue #38&lt;/a&gt; between real-life measurements and theoretical predictions, and all the notation is a bit inconsistent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is possible to do the calculations using full ODEs and all that sort of jazz, but it's too much for a single motor. I prefer to see it as a black box with some exposed parameters, nothing more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I've got so far boils down to EMF:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$A = 1.8^\circ$&lt;/span&gt;, angle per full step&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$U = 24\ V$&lt;/span&gt;, voltage&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$P = 2\ mm$&lt;/span&gt;, pitch&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$N_t = 20$&lt;/span&gt;, teeth per gear&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$N_{ms} = 16$&lt;/span&gt;, microsteps per full step&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$v = 200\ mm/s$&lt;/span&gt;, desired speed&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$T_h = 0.4, Nm$&lt;/span&gt;, holding torque&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$I_r = 1.5\ A$&lt;/span&gt;, rated current&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$R = 5.75\ Ohm$&lt;/span&gt;, phase resistance&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$e = 75%$&lt;/span&gt;, stepper current&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$L = 8.4\ mH$&lt;/span&gt;, motor inductance&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$f = 200\ kHz$&lt;/span&gt;, max step rate, see Klipper &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.klipper3d.org/Features.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;docs&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Derived variables:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$N_s = 360^\circ / A = 200\ step/rev$&lt;/span&gt;, &lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;full&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt; steps per revolution&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$d = P * N_t = 40\ mm/rev$&lt;/span&gt;, distance per revolution&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$d_s = d / N_s = 0.2\ mm$&lt;/span&gt;, distance per &lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;full&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt; step&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$d_{ms} = 1000 * d_s / N_{ms} = 12.5\ \mu m$&lt;/span&gt;, distance per &lt;em&gt;micro&lt;/em&gt;step&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$I_e = I_r * e / 100 = 1.125\ A$&lt;/span&gt;, effective max current&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$RD = N_s * N_{ms} / d = 80\ step/mm$&lt;/span&gt;, rotational distance (is it supposed to be &lt;em&gt;micro&lt;/em&gt;steps/mm?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$v_{max} = f * 1000 / RD = 2500\ mm / s$&lt;/span&gt;, max theoretical speed at this rate&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$RPM_m = 60 * (v / d) = 300\ rev/min$&lt;/span&gt;, revolutions per minute at speed &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$v$&lt;/span&gt;; &lt;a href=&quot;https://alexkenis.wordpress.com/2018/03/06/supplemental-equations-and-links-for-stepper-motor-calculations/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Alex&lt;/a&gt; also multiplies by &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$N_s$&lt;/span&gt; and divides by a magic number 200, both really make no sense to me&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$RPS_m = RPM_m / 60 = 5\ rev/sec$&lt;/span&gt;, revolutions per second&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$\xi_r = \sqrt 2 * \pi * T_h * (RPS_m/I_r) \approx 5.9\ V$&lt;/span&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;https://alexkenis.wordpress.com/2018/03/06/supplemental-equations-and-links-for-stepper-motor-calculations/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;rotation EMF&lt;/a&gt;. This is the point where questions start to arise though. I found another source &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.oyostepper.com/article-1102-Back-emf-due-to-rotation-of-stepper-motor.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;(&amp;quot;Back emf due to rotation of stepper moto&amp;quot;)&lt;/a&gt; where the rated current is used as well. To me, it looks like should be &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$I_e$&lt;/span&gt; even for peak EMF values since the current is limited by the corresponding driver. There is also an argument &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/625/&quot;&gt;in issue #38&lt;/a&gt; regarding the coefficients that should be used in practice&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$\xi_i = RPS_m * \pi *I_e * (L/1000) * (N_s/2) \approx 14.8\ V$&lt;/span&gt;, Alex uses magic numbers again, I also failed to find the actual source for this formula&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, since I'm not sure these values/formulas are valid I can't move to the next part that's calculations of the maximum achievable speed. Even more so, there are &lt;a href=&quot;https://alexkenis.wordpress.com/2018/03/06/supplemental-equations-and-links-for-stepper-motor-calculations/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;two&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.reprapfirmware.org/emf.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;formulas&lt;/a&gt; that introduce even more confusion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd be happy to see some solid advice or potential sources to read.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="39051" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2023-07-13T03:36:09.667" LastActivityDate="2023-07-13T03:36:09.667" Title="How do I calculate the theoretical max speed of a motor?" Tags="|stepper|motor|speed|knowledgebase|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21177" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21237" CreationDate="2023-07-14T13:56:27.610" Score="0" ViewCount="47" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to create a profile, in the Prusa Slicer software, that could be preset so that in the last layer the nozzle is at 210 °C of temperature so that the printer ensures that the inner and outer walls are well together and do not become loose in the layer higher. I have very thin 0.7 mm walls and I usually have problems with the walls opening every now and then...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5681" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2023-07-14T15:34:02.957" LastActivityDate="2023-07-27T03:26:46.107" Title="In the last layer, the nozzle should be at 210 °C of temperature configured in the Prusa Slicer profile" Tags="|prusaslicer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21179" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-07-14T21:38:55.437" Score="0" ViewCount="30" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been trying to figure out what I'm doing wrong with printing using colorFabb wood PLA. I designed a square test object to print that's fairly simple, it has concentric squares with the height increasing for each square moving inward. I set up a print job using the Creality slicer (v4.8.2) to print three of these, side by side, at the back side of the print bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are the print settings I have tested with (some have been a range):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Speed: 60 - 80 mm/s&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Nozzle temp: 200 °C - 210 °C&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bed temp: 60 °C&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Layer height: 0.2 mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Nozzle: 0.6 mm, hardened steel&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Raft: no&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Brim: no&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bed: course texture PEI&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Supports: none, not required for model&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have also replaced the Bowden tube because the original seemed to have deformed at the hot end and was causing a filament restriction. It may have deformed while I was printing a few things with ABS, based on what I recently learned about the PTFE used. I have also leveled the bed after every few prints just to be safe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What seems to consistently happen when I print is that I see some issues with the first layer with the object printing near the home coordinates (almost looks like the nozzle is dragging through the layer, but typically only in the second quarter of the layer being printed), the middle object has a mostly decent first layer, and then with the third object, which is printing opposite the middle object along the X-axis, it never finishes the first layer. Sometimes it's able to finish the walls, but it always fails while filling in the first layer. When I try a single object near the center it seems to do OK, but there can be some issues with the first few layers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've been specifically printing in these spots because I had tried some larger objects that had weird issues when not printing near the center and I was trying to understand what may be behind the problems I was seeing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The best I can figure is that maybe when printing closer to the edges of the print bed, the wood PLA is binding within the Bowden tube, even with a new one. The tension placed on everything to reach the ends of the print head range might be preventing the smooth flow of filament.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Supposing my thoughts on this are correct, what would be my best option(s) for being able to utilize the entire print bed with the wood PLA? The only things I can think of would be to either convert to direct-drive extrusion or to use a longer Bowden tube and not keep it secured to the wiring harness for the hot end (which I would think could allow the filament to move where it needs to in order to minimize stress). Would either of these help? Are there any settings I should change? If there are any other settings I can share that would be helpful, let me know.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="39146" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2023-07-14T22:32:36.287" LastActivityDate="2023-07-14T22:32:36.287" Title="Issues printing with colorFabb wood PLA on Ender 5 Pro" Tags="|creality-ender-5|creality|filled-pla|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21180" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-07-16T10:04:03.270" Score="-1" ViewCount="53" Body="&lt;p&gt;We are working with 3D-printed metals.&#xA;The printed models have to be manually post-processed. The supports need to be removed and depowdering (grinding the metal so it's smooth) has to be done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This post process takes a long time. I did search for solutions that automate that procedure. I could not find any examples.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do you maybe know about example projects in which the post process was fully or partially automated?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="39163" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2023-07-17T11:32:22.237" LastActivityDate="2023-12-14T12:00:55.097" Title="Automatic support removal and depowdering" Tags="|post-processing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21183" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21180" CreationDate="2023-07-17T07:55:39.177" Score="0" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Two-step machining&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only way that &lt;em&gt;automatically&lt;/em&gt; can depowder and smooth a metal print after its creation that I can think of is deliberately printing the item solid and oversized and including a holding stem. Then the holding stem is chucked into a 5-axis CNC mill, the item indicated in, and milled to shape.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, this process is not faster than traditional machining but in fact slower.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2023-07-17T08:45:25.657" LastActivityDate="2023-07-17T08:45:25.657" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21186" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-07-18T01:19:02.130" Score="-1" ViewCount="500" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Creality Ender 3 S1 Pro that I'm trying to figure out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was able to make 3 solid prints using white Creality-branded PLA without issue and with just an initial auto-level pass, but after that, I had problems with small parts de-adhering halfway through my prints; the first 5 or 6 layers will print fine, and then small bits of the first layer will just slide off the print bed while the extruder is moving.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think my first layer is maybe not going down well enough, though the pieces that do stick seem to be down pretty well (they require a decent amount of force to get them off of the PEI bed) - the image below is pretty close to the sort of thing I'm seeing with normal prints.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it matters, my extruder temp is 200 °C and my bed temp is 60 °C. I left everything as the default settings and tried using both the latest Cura and Creality settings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think the issue is the globbing that's happening when the extruder changes directions when it hits a cold raised blob it just has too much torque and flicks it off. My leveling procedure is going through the manual leveling UX with the bed heated, sticking a piece of paper under the center and 4 corners (one at a time), and adjusting the wheels as best as I can until it slightly drags; once I'm satisfied with that I do an auto-level pass.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Below is an image of my first layer test grid; any ideas for what I can try? Is there anything I can do with the flow rate or first layer width to get better adhesion, or do I need to monkey with the Z-offset and leveling more? My gut is saying that the Z-offset is too low but when I raise it I have issues with even the outer nozzle-wiping passes not sticking (the straight lines that the default Cura profile prints usually stick fine, but the initial skirt around the part do not).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this just too small of a piece to print maybe? I printed two of these &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3845304&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Articulated Shark&lt;/a&gt; initially and they did not have any issues with de-adhesion, and they have similarly-sized first-layer parts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xHnVx.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Photo of part of a 3D printed model that broke off&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xHnVx.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Photo of part of a 3D printed model that broke off&quot; title=&quot;Photo of part of a 3D printed model that broke off&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qLTVs.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;First Layer Test Grid&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qLTVs.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;First Layer Test Grid&quot; title=&quot;First Layer Test Grid&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="39188" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2023-07-18T14:28:01.713" LastActivityDate="2024-01-15T21:04:40.550" Title="Small parts de-adhere halfway through print" Tags="|creality-ender-3|bed-leveling|adhesion|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21187" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-07-18T12:35:45.407" Score="0" ViewCount="72" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am printing a flat plate that has swiss-cheese like holes in the top layer ONLY, but the layer beneath the swiss-cheese one is uniformly flat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Desired outcome: second-to-top layer prints clean back-and-forth plus ironing for holes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Current outcome: second-to-top layer takes almost 10x longer (than the layer before it) to print because it cuts up the back-and-forth of the &amp;quot;Solid Infill&amp;quot; with &amp;quot;Top Solid Infill&amp;quot; circles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Question: How do I make the second-to-top layer print like the third-to-top layer except with ironing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Details:&#xA;Right now my slicer is seeing the parts of the exposed holes on the second-to-top layer as &amp;quot;Top Solid Infill&amp;quot; (according to the verbose gcode) which makes sense because it is the top-most for that part below the circle hole.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The slicer creates little &amp;quot;Internal Perimeter&amp;quot;s in a space below each hole...&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oYWLQ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oYWLQ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;InternalPerimeter&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and then fills them in with &amp;quot;Top Solid Infill&amp;quot;...&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5yCzR.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5yCzR.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;TopSolidInfill&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;before sporadically filling the rest of the layer with &amp;quot;Solid Infill&amp;quot;.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nKS1C.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nKS1C.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;SolidInfill&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It then goes and adds all the ironing for the parts that will be exposed through the holes that will be printed in the layer above.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Za0QC.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Za0QC.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Ironing&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm wondering if I can do something like merge Top Solid Infill with Solid Infill, or maybe disabling Top Solid Infill altogether would work, but I can't find settings for either possibility. Again my question: How do I make the second-to-top layer print like the third-to-top layer except with ironing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37086" LastActivityDate="2023-07-18T12:35:45.407" Title="Uselessly slow printing pattern for second-to-top layer of Swiss-cheese-like model (using SuperSlicer/PrusaSlicer)" Tags="|infill|prusaslicer|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21191" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21186" CreationDate="2023-07-19T09:38:22.940" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've found a brim works for this. Where it might be frustrating to remove a brim, I've suspended the part a little with tree-like supports. I've even had to go for extra wide brims for a part with a small footprint but a little tall.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This part is a little bigger, but also slid off a lot without that nice big brim.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/q4uiY.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/q4uiY.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Slicer preview for part with big brims&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10308" LastActivityDate="2023-07-19T09:38:22.940" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21192" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-07-19T12:51:04.407" Score="0" ViewCount="187" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just had a problem with my Ender 3 V2 Neo. It suddenly stopped printing in the middle of the second to last layer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The head moved to the side (as if it finished printing) and the confirmation button on the screen appeared, also the progress bar was showing 100% completion but the remaining printing time was 16 minutes (of a 9-hour print). I checked and there were no clogs and no option to resume printing (at first I thought it was a power outage but it wasn't). The bed and nozzle temperature were kept at 60 °C and 200 °C as I was using PLA. I just checked the G-code and, at least to me, there are no evident problems. Also, there's no sign of over or under-extrusion on the print. I have no clue what happened.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="39207" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2023-07-19T13:47:25.227" LastActivityDate="2023-07-19T18:31:35.877" Title="Printing stops at the middle of second to last layer" Tags="|creality-ender-3|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21195" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-07-19T22:11:03.193" Score="0" ViewCount="56" Body="&lt;p&gt;I did a slicing of a small piece that only has 22 layers. How can I configure the PrusaSlicer software to work at a speed of 60 mm/s up to the sixth layer and from the seventh layer onwards to assume a speed of 40 mm/s?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5681" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2023-07-20T05:54:40.653" LastActivityDate="2023-07-20T05:54:40.653" Title="Speed change from a slicing layer" Tags="|prusaslicer|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21196" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-07-20T08:06:49.220" Score="0" ViewCount="58" Body="&lt;p&gt;What's the size of the smallest hole I can print?&#xA;I would like to print something similar to a paper with 1 mm (estimated size) hole/gap in it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think I will use an Entina Tina 2, but I don't know if it is possible to print with this one. If I can. Do you have a recommendation for the cheapest printer that I can print 1 mm hole (or smaller)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="39220" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2023-07-27T03:35:50.790" LastActivityDate="2023-08-26T05:04:10.523" Title="print a model with an hole in it - Entina tina 2" Tags="|3d-models|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21198" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-07-20T12:31:55.083" Score="1" ViewCount="71" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently replaced one of the fluorescent neon tubes in my garage and noticed a sticker on the packageing saying the neon tube in question was only giving off low amounts of UV light. I wasn't even sure, fluorescent neon tubes were emitting UV light at all, but now I am wondering if the light coming off these lamps affect the quality of the resin 3D prints?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21435" LastActivityDate="2023-07-20T12:31:55.083" Title="Does UV light from fluorescent neon tubes affect resin prints?" Tags="|print-quality|resin|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21199" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19937" CreationDate="2023-07-21T06:40:26.593" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;What worked for me was switching the voltage switch on the back of the printer from 230 volt to 115.  I had missed the step during the build to switch to my power outlet's voltage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="39234" LastActivityDate="2023-07-21T06:40:26.593" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21200" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-07-21T15:11:12.477" Score="-1" ViewCount="200" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am able to print files from Thingiverse just fine but having trouble printing anything designed in Blender. I get the error message “too long extrusion prevented” following which the print fails. I have tried different things to address the issue including: re-calculating E-steps, changing the extruder, trying a different slicer, adding a bed offset, downloading the latest version of Blender, and re-modeling the object. Nothing seems to work. Could someone please help me out so I could know what I am doing wrong?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="38972" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2023-07-21T17:30:33.720" LastActivityDate="2024-01-19T12:06:55.777" Title="3D printer giving me “too long extrusion prevented” error message when ever I try to print a model made in Blender" Tags="|extruder|diy-3d-printer|calibration|reprap|blender|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21201" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-07-21T15:50:49.763" Score="0" ViewCount="72" Body="&lt;p&gt;I started fiddling with Blender this week as I bought a 3D model of a backpack that I wanted to 3D print. In order to get Lychee to print it, I had to use a back-and-forth combination of Blender and an stl repair service online. When Lychee was finally able to fill the holes and accept the geometry, I realized that the model that I originally thickened was still hollow inside. When printed, certain surfaces fail to print because it is too thin.  Right now I'm trying to use Tinkercad to import my stl file, make it hollow, put on solid over it to make a mold, make the mold hollow, and fill the mold with a solid to get a positive of my 3D model.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It doesn't seem to work, and I'd like to ask for some help to find a solution. Please see below what my 3D model looks like when sliced :&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xWE9a.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xWE9a.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DmOyR.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Hollowed mold, solid, and 3D model that is part of the hollowed mold&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DmOyR.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Hollowed mold, solid, and 3D model that is part of the hollowed mold&quot; title=&quot;Hollowed mold, solid, and 3D model that is part of the hollowed mold&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I used the displacement tool to thicken my model because the solidify tool was causing issues when importing the model in Lychee. Maybe I was doing something wrong?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="39240" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2023-07-21T19:40:49.710" LastActivityDate="2023-12-18T21:05:25.640" Title="3d model thickened but still hollow; problems printing it" Tags="|blender|tinkercad|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21202" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21201" CreationDate="2023-07-21T16:10:31.583" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the thickness (Solidify) was added in Blender, you can try unchecking the only rim check box on the Solidify modifier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="38972" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2023-07-21T17:13:20.217" LastActivityDate="2023-07-21T17:13:20.217" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21209" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-07-22T14:21:51.353" Score="0" ViewCount="18" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am creating a punch and a base for an arbor press and because of the specific size need, I want to 3D print them. The most pressure that an area of the base and punch should endure is something between 30 to 60 MPa on a small 83mm2 area. Obviously the material shouldn't compress at this pressure. I know that steel is probably an obvious answer here, but I'm looking for the most cost effective solution and rather not overkill. I was wondering what material would you recommend that can endure that conditions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="39253" LastEditorUserId="39253" LastEditDate="2023-07-22T14:24:48.860" LastActivityDate="2023-07-22T14:24:48.860" Title="Advice with material selection for compression applications" Tags="|print-material|material|print-strength|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21211" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-07-23T06:58:58.367" Score="1" ViewCount="98" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a &lt;code&gt;.mix&lt;/code&gt; file with multicolored objects. Using Meshmixer, I would like to change the surface color A into color B without modifying the rest of the colors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In theory, this could be done by first selecting only the surfaces matching the color A, and then use the &lt;strong&gt;Sculpt&lt;/strong&gt; &amp;gt; &lt;strong&gt;Color&lt;/strong&gt; tool to paint the selection into B color without changing the rest of the surfaces. Or there could be a dedicated tool that can more automatically paint only the surfaces matching the selected A color into B color leaving the other surfaces unmodified. However, to my surprise, I haven't found any good guidelines to do this simple task of turning color A into color B. I noticed the promising &lt;strong&gt;Select&lt;/strong&gt; &amp;gt; &lt;strong&gt;Filters&lt;/strong&gt; &amp;gt; &lt;strong&gt;Expand Mode&lt;/strong&gt; &amp;gt; &lt;strong&gt;Vertex Color Similarity&lt;/strong&gt; option but have no idea how it should work or is it suitable for the job at all. Additional information can be found in Autodesk's guide on Meshmixer's &lt;a href=&quot;https://help.autodesk.com/view/MSHMXR/2019/ENU/?guid=GUID-D5CCD7BF-0E74-4B2D-9307-8397A5DCA5E7&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Filters Panel&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any help? I also have FreeCAD if that could help, but it cannot open &lt;code&gt;.mix&lt;/code&gt; files at least directly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Update: I read the &lt;strong&gt;Vertex Color Similarity&lt;/strong&gt; documentation more carefully and get a little bit further. I am using a Mac and instead of &lt;kbd&gt;Ctrl&lt;/kbd&gt; I need to hold &lt;kbd&gt;Cmd&lt;/kbd&gt; while right-clicking the pre-existing selection (within a surface matching the color A) and then drag to expand the selected area. However, the selection in the isolated color area (let's call this A1) does not expand into a separate color area (A2, as said in the documentation: &amp;quot;grows the selection to connected regions&amp;quot;). It would be a tedious task to click and select all the individual areas representing the color A (area A1, A2, A3, A4, and so on) and then do the expansion. How could I more easily select and modify &lt;strong&gt;all&lt;/strong&gt; the surfaces matching the color A?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="39258" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2023-07-23T13:42:49.327" LastActivityDate="2023-07-23T13:42:49.327" Title="How to replace color A into B using Meshmixer" Tags="|cad|color|freecad|meshmixer|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21213" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-07-23T22:41:14.300" Score="2" ViewCount="657" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is not a duplicate of &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10013/ender-3-first-print-some-area-is-smooth-but-some-is-rough&quot;&gt;Ender 3 first print some area is smooth but some is rough?&lt;/a&gt; -- that question has vertical, curved surfaces that are rough. My vertical, curved surfaces are fine; it is horizontal flat surfaces that are rough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second, I apologize for the dust on the prints in the video. I've been trying approaches on this for a week and dust has collected since that time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have an &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.creality.com/products/ender-3-neo-3d-printer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Ender 3 Neo&lt;/a&gt; and am using 1.75 mm Comgrow PLA filament. I'm using Cura as my slicer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My problem is that all of my prints are fine, &lt;em&gt;except&lt;/em&gt; some (the larger) horizontally flat sections print sandpapery to the touch. The walls are fine and smooth. Curved sections (such as a rabbit) are fine and smooth -- it is only horizontal surfaces that have this problem, and then only the larger ones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By rough, I mean there are visually distinctive diagonal lines (which are on all my prints, smooth or not, so I assume are normal), but dragging my finger over them is like dragging it over fine-grained sandpaper. &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gU8cJ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gU8cJ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Picture of Incarna_Tokens.stl with sandpaper bottom&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My tests consisted mostly of &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6129527/files&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Incarna Tokens.stl&lt;/a&gt; -- this is the picture above. It's a mostly rectangular container to hold pieces for a board game, with a flat bottom that prints rough and walls.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I've Tried:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Original prints were with the default settings for the &amp;quot;Creality Ender-3 / Ender 3-v2&amp;quot; at Cura's super quality (0.12 mm) and had the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Releveling the bed. I did this several times, using this &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KNS_nhYnylY&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Creality Service tutorial video&lt;/a&gt;: lower nozzle to 0 mm, adjust Z-offset until I could feel it rub against the nozzle but could still push and pull the paper in any direction. I then turned off the motor and manually moved the extruder to each corner, where I repeated it while turning the corner dials to raise/lower that corner. Things actually got worse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I then tried the method again, but instead of turning off the motor, I used the motor to move the extruder to each corner. I got different results for the corners, which I don't understand. But adjusting using this method got prints going fine again... except for the horizontal sections which were still rough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I tried adjusting the Z-offset and reprinting just on the center (not adjusting the corners) up by 0.05 mm and 0.1 mm, which only succeeded in making the prints stringier, and down by -0.05 mm and -0.1 mm, which just made them worse. I took this as evidence that my leveling with the paper was correct (enough).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I tried printing at each of the corners. No change, all prints came out the same.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I removed the filament and cleaned the nozzle with the needle provided with the printer. The pin came out with some tiny black specks but nothing that said &amp;quot;clog.&amp;quot; Prints afterward were no different.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I adjust settings in Cura. Based on various things I read, I lowered print speed from 50 mm/s to 40 mm/s, I changed the flow to 97 % and then 95 %, I changed line width from 0.4 mm to 0.3 mm, I changed bed temperature from 50 °F to 60 °F (nozzle temperature stayed at 200 °F), I lowered fan speed from 100 % to 50 %, and I did combinations of these things. None of these had a noticeable impact other than the print speed and line width making it take longer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I turned on ironing in Cura. This worked, but only sort of: 2/3 of the horizontal surface did not have diagonal lines and was completely smooth, a strip around the edges (the ironing offset) had diagonal lines but was still smooth, but 1/3 of the print still had diagonal lines and remains rough. &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zNrxG.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zNrxG.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt; If the ironing completely worked it would solve my problem (I don't care about diagonal lines at the edges), but it only seems to be a 2/3 solution or so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I adjusted ironing settings (following some page that I can't find anymore). I turned on monotonic ironing order, increased the line spacing from 0.1 mm to 0.2 mm, increased ironing flow from 10 % to 15 %, and increased ironing speed from 16.66 mm/s to 30 mm/s, then 50 mm/s, then 70 mm/s. None of these solved the problem that about a third of the print remained rough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I measured the prints for X/Y dimensional accuracy. I don't have calipers or a precise tool, just a ruler and my eyeball, but they seemed fine. I also printed &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1278865/files&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;xyzCalibration_cube.stl&lt;/a&gt; -- a 20 mm cube -- to test the Z accuracy, which to my eyeball, is also fine. Vexingly, even back to entirely default settings / 0.12 mm print speed, the calibration cube is smooth on all sides, including the horizontal top, which still has the diagonal lines but feels smooth to the touch like I want.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I printed some other prints. The default rabbit print the Ender comes with (no horizontal flat surface, just curved surfaces) prints fine. Small horizontal surfaces (the cube, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.printables.com/model/61073-the-perfect-gloomhaven-standee/files&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;all of these Gloomhaven standee prints&lt;/a&gt;) print fine -- diagonal lines but smooth to the touch. Larger horizontal surfaces (like &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4269765/files&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Dahan_Tray_thin.stl&lt;/a&gt;) continue to print rough. &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rdgnQ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rdgnQ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Picture of Dahan_Tray_thin.stl&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qPCUg.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qPCUg.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Close up picture of Dahan_Tray_thin.stl&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt; I checked the large surfaces to see if they start smooth in a corner and then get rough, but no, the roughness is consistent across the entire surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I theorize, but do not have any experience to back it up, that this happens because the larger flat area means more elapsed time between layers, but even if that's true I don't know how I would counteract it. Looking at the closeup pictures, it seems like the line ridges are raised, but then why doesn't it happen on smaller prints?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I turn to you. How do I stop my large horizontal prints from being sandpapery?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="39265" LastEditorUserId="39265" LastEditDate="2023-07-24T22:14:38.623" LastActivityDate="2023-07-25T13:26:50.013" Title="Why are flat sections printing rough?" Tags="|creality-ender-3|ultimaker-cura|pla|smoothing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21215" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-07-24T22:15:35.653" Score="0" ViewCount="86" Body="&lt;p&gt;The thermocouple on my 3D printer broke (one of the cables broke from the brass part that attaches to the heatblock). I managed to get it working and I was looking for other thermocouples while I had my machine working.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The thing is that it broke againg after two or three uses, and now it's a mess - it cannot be repaired anymore by mortal means. So the only solution is to buy a new one. And here it comes the problem: both the Flashforge Finder and the Bresser Saurus are out of production (only the Flashforge Finder 3 is out, and it has different pieces than the other Finders).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I managed to buy one thermocouple from Aliexpress but it turned out that it was not compatible (marking 50ºC at room temperature). I have tried other thermocouples, but I am not able to find it (and my knowledge on this is more or less nothing).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As I understand, the Bresser Saurus is just a repaint of the Flashforge Finder 2. But this is where things get strange, as I am unable to make anything from FF2 work on my Saurus. I've contacted the technical service of both Bresser and Flashforge and the answer is that they cannot provide me with even the type of thermocouple that it is used on my machine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope that someone knows this, because if not, I am worried I may need to buy another printer if I want to continue printing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TjZjM.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TjZjM.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Bresser Saurus Motherboard&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="39284" LastActivityDate="2023-08-24T07:00:25.080" Title="Bresser Saurus (aka Flashforge Finder) thermocouple broken" Tags="|troubleshooting|flashforge-finder|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21216" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21223" CreationDate="2023-07-25T05:05:03.123" Score="1" ViewCount="750" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently installed the CR-Touch onto my CR10-V3 printer. I updated my firmware to Marlin 2.1.2M and set my probe offsets and selected level bed which checked 81 points on the print bed and it said bed leveling was complete.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried printing something that I had already created G-code for from Prusa Slicer, and on the initial wipe and perimeter print the nozzle was way too high (maybe 10-15 mm off the print bed surface)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I searched for how to enable using the auto bed leveling mesh using Prusa slicer, and I found a couple of places mentioning adding &lt;code&gt;M420 S1&lt;/code&gt; to the G-code to enable using the auto bed leveling mesh, but even after adding that, my print did the same thing and during the wipe and perimeter print it was way too high.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Below is the start G-code that I'm using in Prusa Slicer&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;G90 ; use absolute coordinates&#xA;M83 ; extruder relative mode&#xA;M104 S150 ; set temporary nozzle temp to prevent oozing during homing&#xA;M140 S{first_layer_bed_temperature[0]} ; set final bed temp&#xA;G4 S30 ; allow partial nozzle warmup&#xA;G28 ; home all axis&#xA;M420 S1 ; Enable use auto bed leveling saved mesh&#xA;G1 Z50 F240&#xA;G1 X2.0 Y10 F3000&#xA;M104 S{first_layer_temperature[0]} ; set final nozzle temp&#xA;M190 S{first_layer_bed_temperature[0]} ; wait for bed temp to stabilize&#xA;M109 S{first_layer_temperature[0]} ; wait for nozzle temp to stabilize&#xA;G1 Z0.28 F240&#xA;G92 E0&#xA;G1 X2.0 Y140 E10 F1500 ; prime the nozzle&#xA;G1 X2.3 Y140 F5000&#xA;G92 E0&#xA;G1 X2.3 Y10 E10 F1200 ; prime the nozzle&#xA;G92 E0&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I'm understanding the last part of that G-code, it should be 0.28 mm above the print bed when it does its nozzle wipe, but it's 10 mm or more off the bed when it does that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did some additional testing this morning, and the problem seems to be the z-values after auto homing. I have a z-probe offset entered of -2.122 mm that I got using the z-probe offset wizard in the Marlin firmware, and that offset visually seems reasonable for where the probe triggers vs the nozzle height.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After auto homing all axis, if I manually change the z-axis to be 0.28 mm, then the nozzle is still about 7 mm above the print bed which is where my prints are starting off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I manually deploy the touch sensor and lower the print head, the touch sensor engages with the print surface at around a z position of -5 mm, and then with the z-probe offset of -2.112 mm it's about 7 mm too high.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Where is this extra height coming from? I've checked and rechecked the z-probe offset, and like I said, the values seem reasonable, but I'm not sure where this extra height is coming from.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30646" LastEditorUserId="30646" LastEditDate="2023-07-25T13:06:46.157" LastActivityDate="2023-07-25T18:33:15.277" Title="Absolute Z values not 0 at print surface after auto homing with CR-Touch" Tags="|marlin|bltouch|creality-cr-10|automatic-bed-leveling|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21217" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21215" CreationDate="2023-07-25T06:30:12.773" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are (at least) eight types: B, E, J, N, K, R, T, &amp;amp; S type. Each type has different operating temperatures and characteristics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;K type thermocouples appear to be the most common (for our purposes), as they have the required temperature range useful for a 3D printer. You will need to know which type the printer originally came with. The original was probably just a generic thermocouple, so you should be able to get a replacement, but the type must match.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also note that the original &amp;quot;thermocouple&amp;quot; may not have been an actual thermocouple... Often &lt;em&gt;NTC thermistors&lt;/em&gt; or &lt;em&gt;RTD probes&lt;/em&gt; can be used instead (to reduce costs). So you will need to check this too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This thread has some (hopefully) useful information (assuming that the Bresser Saurus &lt;em&gt;actually&lt;/em&gt; is just a rebadged Flashforge Finder 2): &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.3dprintingforum.org/flashforge/120200-ff-finder-thermocouple-replacement&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;FF Finder thermocouple replacement&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.3dprintingforum.org/flashforge/120200-ff-finder-thermocouple-replacement?p=120236#post120236&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;post #2&lt;/a&gt; states that &lt;strong&gt;K-type thermocouples&lt;/strong&gt; are used&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A thermo couple device is polarity sensitive, try connecting the wires the opposite way round.&#xA;The FF Dreamer &amp;amp; Finder use a K-Type thermo couple. the wires are made of specific dissimilar materials that generate a voltage when heated. The Mother-Board detects this volttage change &amp;amp; works out the temperature.&#xA;All thermo-couples are polarity sensitive, &amp;amp; iff connected the wrong way round they will give some very odd readings indeed.&#xA;Note also that there are many types of thermocouple that each react to different temperature ranges.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and this &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.3dprintingforum.org/flashforge/120200-ff-finder-thermocouple-replacement?p=120288#post120288&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;post #3&lt;/a&gt; states that &lt;strong&gt;NTC thermistors&lt;/strong&gt; are used in older models of the Flash Forge Finder:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It turns out, even though my Finder was bought recently (Flashforge store on Amazon), it is an old model and actually has a NTC thermistor instead of a thermocouple! Flashforge USA knows nothing about this, and I didn't have much luck with the Chinese contact either. The only two replacement parts to be ordered from them are both thermocouples-- in either M3 or M4 thread.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That post also includes some links to replacements.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note also the thread and (to a lesser extent) the connector are important: Either M3 or M4 threads are used, so you will need to verify that as well, before making a purchase.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4762" LastActivityDate="2023-07-25T06:30:12.773" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21218" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-07-25T12:03:43.407" Score="1" ViewCount="157" Body="&lt;p&gt;We need to move our Formlabs Form 3 printer to a new room, and I would like to remove the resin from the resin tank. Is there a standard way to do this, and can I reuse the resin once I remove it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="39029" LastEditorUserId="36802" LastEditDate="2023-12-01T12:42:34.850" LastActivityDate="2023-12-01T12:42:34.850" Title="How should I remove the resin from the resin tank?" Tags="|resin|maintenance|cleaning|formlabs|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21219" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21218" CreationDate="2023-07-25T12:31:24.030" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;when moving the printer to a new room I would just remove the tank and then carefully move the tank to the new room after you moved the printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you really need to empty the tank: The tank usually has a small indent in one of the corners. Just dump the contents of the tank through a resin strainer (a paper coffee-filter-like cone) back into the container it came in. Do this in a well ventilated area with no direct sunlight entering the room and don't let it spill on your skin. (no big deal if you touch it, just don't let it happen too often)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't forget to clean the tank thoroughly with paper rags and alcohol afterwards. Everything that stays will be stuck after some time&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4708" LastEditorUserId="4708" LastEditDate="2023-07-25T12:38:36.690" LastActivityDate="2023-07-25T12:38:36.690" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21220" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21216" CreationDate="2023-07-25T12:37:52.170" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Although I cannot be sure, I suspect that your bed-leveling is working fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An auto-bed-leveling-sensor only takes care of relative bed leveling. That means that you have to manually add a Z-offset in the printer menu. Do this by running the auto-leveling, then auto homing and then adjusting the Z-value by moving the Z-axis in the menu until the head barely touches the bed. Note the value and fill this in for the Z-offset value in the configuration menu of the printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4708" LastActivityDate="2023-07-25T12:37:52.170" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21221" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21213" CreationDate="2023-07-25T13:26:50.013" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Many Ender3 printers have a curved surface. Leveling is not going to fix all problems here. That is why you might have difference in thickness. Only a mesh bed leveling sensor is going to help here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It looks like while ironing, the head extrudes a little too much material in the process. That way the extra material oozes out through the sides. You say that you tried increasing from 10% to 20%, so I would try it with 3 or 0%.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4708" LastActivityDate="2023-07-25T13:26:50.013" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21222" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-07-25T14:32:11.550" Score="1" ViewCount="39" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been doing some 3D printing at work as a means of different tool holding devices and jigs and from this time I have gained some, although very basic, knowledge on how the printers work and how to troubleshoot the issues I've experienced with problems I have encountered.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From this I have gained a new interest in 3D printing as a result and would like to buy a printer for use at home that is relatively cheap (£300 Max-ish) and I'm wondering if anyone can give me some pointers as to which I should look into buying as a good first step to 3D printing at home.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've been printing with a Prusa i3 MK3S+ at work and their PETG filament mainly, and I'm definitely leaning towards something similar and compatible with the PrusaSlicer because I'm fairly comfortable with both, but the i3 MK3S+ is a bit expensive for me to invest in for at home as of right now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If anyone can help me out it would be greatly appreciated along with any set up tips for the printer you suggest&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="39012" LastActivityDate="2023-07-26T14:21:01.977" Title="Starting 3D printing at home" Tags="|prusa-i3|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2023-08-24T07:42:53.560" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21223" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21216" CreationDate="2023-07-25T18:33:15.277" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have no idea what happened the first time I initialized everything, but I started over from the beginning and ran the &lt;code&gt;Initialize EEPROM&lt;/code&gt; command from the UI, and then saved the settings, and then went to the probe offsets and reset my probe offsets to exactly what they were before, but now after auto homing the absolute Z values look accurate and if I manually move the Z axis to 0 it is right at that 0.1 mm height of a sheet of paper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first time I initialized the EEPROM I ran auto home immediately after and I was getting an error on the main page &lt;code&gt;ERR: too far&lt;/code&gt; and maybe in the process of trying to fix that I messed something else up, but it appears that everything is working how it should now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30646" LastActivityDate="2023-07-25T18:33:15.277" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21224" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21160" CreationDate="2023-07-25T22:46:32.463" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Assuming you are not exceeding a safe temperature for your hotend, including a limit of around 245-260 °C if it's PFTE-lined and a limit around 300-330 if the block is aluminum, there are no significant risks to the print quality, printer, or user unless you get to &lt;strong&gt;extreme&lt;/strong&gt; temperatures. PLA prints great up to 270 °C and in fact this is the sort of temperature you need to print at high speeds without a very long melt zone. Somewhere around 320-350 it will start to smoke. I've had this happen when purging PET (which I print at 350) with PLA and forgetting to drop the temperature first, but nothing bad comes of it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If PLA sits in the hot zone at excessive temperature (especially over 240 or so) for an extended time, it will crystallize and become brittle, but the damaged material is easily purged as part of the purge line or skirt for the next print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2023-07-25T22:46:32.463" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21226" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-07-26T11:53:44.920" Score="2" ViewCount="762" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a generic smooth PEI bed and a Bambu PEI textured bed. I've never used this bed material before and so have no experience with it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does PEI have a maximum safe usage temperature or at least one that I could reasonably reach during 3D printing on an X1 Carbon?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't want to accidentally toast it printing with a high-temperature setting, as there don't seem to be any trips or safeguards against it in the software.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="29097" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2023-07-26T14:16:17.130" LastActivityDate="2023-12-25T15:22:25.580" Title="Do PEI beds have a maximum safe usage temperature?" Tags="|heated-bed|pei|bambu|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21227" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-07-26T12:05:34.160" Score="-1" ViewCount="380" Body="&lt;p&gt;Using Bambu matte black filament, a Bambu textured PEI bed, and a Bambu P1P printer without an enclosure, what is the optimum bed and hot end temperature for maximum adhesion on a tall thin print with a low level of contact (corner piece for one of the official enclosure).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please limit any answers to temperature, other issues such as speed, the use of contact shapes, or bed adhesion products are out of scope for this specific question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="29097" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2023-07-26T17:13:52.097" LastActivityDate="2023-12-23T21:04:15.473" Title="Optimal bed and hot end temperature for bed adhesion with PLA on a Bambu P1P" Tags="|adhesion|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21228" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-07-26T12:07:55.110" Score="1" ViewCount="97" Body="&lt;p&gt;In general terms, what effect does increasing or decreasing the flow rate and part cooling during bottom layer printing affect bed adhesion when dealing with generic PLA?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="29097" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2023-07-26T18:41:58.797" LastActivityDate="2023-12-23T22:04:35.547" Title="How do flow rate and part cooling affect bed adhesion in PLA?" Tags="|adhesion|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21229" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21222" CreationDate="2023-07-26T13:58:13.643" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Reading between the lines, you require a started printer functionally equivalent to a Prusa i3 MK3, but on a limited budget as it was designed using the same original source material&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Ender 3 is probably your best bet, though this kind of question is not really what this website is designed to be used for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="29097" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2023-07-26T14:21:01.977" LastActivityDate="2023-07-26T14:21:01.977" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21230" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-07-26T16:11:51.380" Score="1" ViewCount="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;My 3D printer is a Monoprice Maker Select v2 and the G-code is being written with VS Code locally and sent with OctoPrint (I have tried directly from the SD as well to no avail).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have macgyvered the extruder so that it extrudes solder instead of plastic filament for a project. The solder still extrudes using the physical dial on the 3D printer through settings but does not work with through G-code.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I thought this could be from the firmware's cold extrusion prevention, so I played around with the &lt;code&gt;M302&lt;/code&gt; command. I tried using the &lt;code&gt;P&lt;/code&gt; parameter and setting the &lt;code&gt;S&lt;/code&gt; parameter very low as per this &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/15495/how-to-print-at-low-temperatures-filament-melting-at-about-70-c/15497#15497&quot;&gt;question&lt;/a&gt; suggestions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It still doesn't work and I'm getting a little frustrated as I do not want to have to change the &lt;code&gt;conf&lt;/code&gt; and reflash the firmware just for this project.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My code is below. I hope I missed something basic, but whatever it is, any help would be greatly appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;M17 ; enable steppers&#xA;&#xA;M302 S20 ; disable extruder cold safety&#xA;M82 ; relative extrusion&#xA;G92 E0 ; zero extruded length&#xA;G1 F200 E5 ; extrude 5mm&#xA;&#xA;G90 ; absolute positioning&#xA;G28 X Y ; home x and y&#xA;&#xA;G0 F10000 ; set feedrate for all following G0 and G1 commands&#xA;&#xA;M300 S0 P100 ; play tone&#xA;&#xA;G0 X100 Y100 ; move to start position&#xA;G0 X105 ; move to pos&#xA;G0 X100&#xA;G0 Y105 &#xA;G0 Y100&#xA;G0 X110&#xA;G0 X100&#xA;G0 Y110&#xA;G0 Y110&#xA;G0 X115&#xA;G0 X100&#xA;G0 Y115&#xA;G0 Y100&#xA;&#xA;G1 F200 E5 ; try extruding again&#xA;&#xA;G28 X Y&#xA;&#xA;M300 S0 P200 ; play end tone&#xA;&#xA;M302 S170 ; reenable extruder cold safety&#xA;M84 ; disable all steppers&#xA;&lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;```&lt;/span&gt;&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="39311" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2023-07-26T17:16:54.310" LastActivityDate="2023-07-26T17:16:54.310" Title="No extrusion from G-code for cold extrusion application in soldering robot" Tags="|extruder|g-code|monoprice-maker-select|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21231" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21228" CreationDate="2023-07-26T18:31:23.120" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;For the first layer for PLA, you want slow speed and no cooling. The relative flow rate is better kept at 100%&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the physics side:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The material will solidify rapidly in contact with the build-plate which is much below the melting point. the build plate is usually at 60 °C (5 ° below the glass transition temp, or less if you dare), and the PLA melting point is around 170 °C&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;So blowing on it will increase the issue this is why normally first layers are done with no part cooling&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The next important parameter is your nozzle height, if it is too high you will not push enough material you could compensate for that by increasing relative flow rate but it is not good practice it is better and very easy to properly calibrate your nozzle height&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Your speed will depend on the adhesion tendency of the bed material with the PLA and the potential helpers (lac, glue stick)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;on a low-quality surface (uneven old plate) you might go at 20 mm/s&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;on glass with a glue stick I had sometimes difficulty going over 40 mm/s,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;with PEI and 3Dlac over a meshed bed it is possible to go over 100 mm/s&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The relative flow rate can be used if your machine under-extrudes (you see through your first layer)  or over extrude (there are blobs or protrusions), but it is good practice to keep the relative flowrate at 100% and to properly calibrate the extruder E-steps as shown here:&#xA;&lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/t5aQCftfK1M?start=0&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36655" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2023-07-26T19:43:24.267" LastActivityDate="2023-07-26T19:43:24.267" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21232" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21227" CreationDate="2023-07-26T18:57:34.583" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to the material specifications, the mate has a Heat Deflection Temperature of 58 °C which can be assumed as the glass transition temperature. So you can bring your bed temperature as close to this as you dare for better adhesion. (you might even be able to go a bit over it if your part is not sagging)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But this will have only a limited effect. Not wanting to look at efficient solutions like a brim and 3Dlac to gain adhesion area might not allow you to solve the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A nice trick if you are scared not to be able to remove the brim cleanly is to do a skirt with a 0.2 or 0.3 mm gap this will allow it to hold sufficiently to help adhesion but still be easy to remove.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36655" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2023-07-26T19:40:19.163" LastActivityDate="2023-07-26T19:40:19.163" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21233" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21226" CreationDate="2023-07-26T22:06:15.003" Score="2" Body="&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;For PLA you normally print with a build plate around  60 °C&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;For ABS you normally print with a build plate around 110 °C&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The X1 Carbon is given for a max hot bed temp of 120 °C as per the manufacturer specs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In fact, the PEI material itself can sustain temp up to 170 °C continuously. (Source: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.theplasticshop.co.uk/plastic_technical_data_sheets/polyetherimide_pei_1000_technical_data_sheet.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Duratron® U1000 PEI data sheet&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36655" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2023-07-27T03:33:56.827" LastActivityDate="2023-07-27T03:33:56.827" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21234" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21168" CreationDate="2023-07-26T22:09:42.217" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Fixed it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As expected and completely reasonable, the MCU needed some time to wake up, clocked it at 6-7 seconds so gave it a total 10 seconds in code. Found the most graceful way of doing it was in the same macro, also included a nice little beep to let me know the game is afoot. I also added an ATX power supply to the rig in the mean time so that is switched first, and I only turn on the 24V PSU after the MCU woke up because &lt;strong&gt;control before power&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;# Switches 24V PSU through physical relay gate 1&#xA;[output_pin 24V_power]&#xA;pin: rpi:gpio17&#xA;&#xA;# Switches 12V PSU through physical relay gate 2&#xA;[output_pin 12V_power]&#xA;pin: rpi:gpio27&#xA;&#xA;# Switches power ON&#xA;[gcode_macro POWER_ON]&#xA;gcode:&#xA;    SET_PIN PIN=12V_power VALUE=1&#xA;    G4 P9000 # Give MCU time to wake up&#xA;    SET_PIN PIN=24V_power VALUE=1&#xA;    G4 P1000 # Give 24V PSU time to wake up&#xA;    BEEP_STARTUP&#xA;&#xA;# Switches power OFF&#xA;[gcode_macro POWER_OFF]&#xA;gcode:&#xA;    BEEP_POWEROFF&#xA;    SET_PIN PIN=24V_power VALUE=0&#xA;    SET_PIN PIN=12V_power VALUE=0&#xA;    &#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Included the extra bit because it might help a stranger, as the original question is simply answered by adding:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;G4 P10000 # Give MCU time to wake up&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;directly after the power supply turns on, either after the macro in the slicer or in the macro as I did, and before any action from the MCU is requested. Note that this time can vary based on your MCU, and I refrained from tuning this further to prevent errors down the line.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="39103" LastEditorUserId="39103" LastEditDate="2023-07-26T22:10:38.857" LastActivityDate="2023-07-26T22:10:38.857" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21235" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21200" CreationDate="2023-07-26T22:31:03.150" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sometimes 3D modeling software does not produce good-quality STL files outputs&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can clean those using the opensource software &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.meshlab.net/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;MeshLab&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then you open your file and go into &lt;strong&gt;Filters&lt;/strong&gt; &amp;gt; &lt;strong&gt;Cleaning and Repairing&lt;/strong&gt;; there you apply the merges, the duplicate removal, and the repair non-manifold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the file is not too damaged most of the slicers have mesh fixing options; in Cura, it is in the Mesh Fixes section. There are options for removing holes stitching, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The symptom of long extrusion prevented is weird though as it means it is trying to make a line with more than 10 or 20 cm of filament which once extruded makes a few netters the first time I see that as a symptom of bad STL.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;P.S. You might want to look at the arc segment setting (I do not know the proper name for Blender) in Blender for the cylinders as there are not a lot of segments and your holes are not rounds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36655" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2023-07-27T03:31:46.283" LastActivityDate="2023-07-27T03:31:46.283" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21236" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21196" CreationDate="2023-07-26T22:50:47.753" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is possible to print a hole of 1 mm with a 3D printer maybe even 0.5 mm but with a lot of trial and error. and the holes might not end-up to be super round&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of the main issues is the viscosity of the filament, you can imagine a 3D printer nozzle as a miniature version of your toothpaste tube. if you try to draw a circle with your toothpaste it will end up smaller than the movement you did due to the viscosity of the plastic dragging behind the nozzle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So to have a 1 mm hole you will need to model a 1.1 mm or 1.2 mm hole and to do a 0.5 mm hole you will need to dial a 0.7 mm or 0.8 mm hole and try until you have the desired size. As you start to be close to the size of the nozzle diameter (0.4 mm on most printers) all the little imperfections stitching, etc will become relatively big and your shape will not be very round.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Except for very bad machines, all the machines shall be able to do this as it is a universal limitation of FDM printers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are very patient you may consider installing a 0.2 mm nozzle but it is dreadfully slow and it likes to clog all the time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;SLA printers will give you a better hole but will have difficulty printing a large surface of paper-thin material&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My feelings tell me that for paper-thin print with a small hole or many small holes, 3D printing does not sound like the most appropriate mean of fabrication what is it exactly that you want to do and what are your constraints?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36655" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2023-07-27T03:28:45.633" LastActivityDate="2023-07-27T03:28:45.633" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21237" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21177" CreationDate="2023-07-26T23:16:30.627" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the printer settings custom G-code you could add a custom G-code there&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;{if layer_num == (total_layer_count-1) } M104 S210 {endif}&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But that does not sound right why not start with 210 °C in the first place? It is perfectly OK to print PLA at 210 °C.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36655" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2023-07-27T03:26:46.107" LastActivityDate="2023-07-27T03:26:46.107" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21241" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-07-27T13:30:14.353" Score="1" ViewCount="406" Body="&lt;p&gt;My printer (Ender 3 S1 Pro) started including pockmarks in prints all of a sudden. I have other S1 Pros that are running the same exact G-code, and they print without issue. This is what I've tried (none of it worked):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Increasing the temperature from 207 °C to 212 °C (it's PLA filament)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Doing a cold pull with some nylon filament and it came out perfectly clean&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Using both brand-new and dehydrated filament&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What could possibly be causing this when it used to work, and my other printers have no problem with it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oMKxM.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Close up photo of a 3D printed model with three pockmarks circled in red&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oMKxM.png&quot; alt=&quot;Close up photo of a 3D printed model with three pockmarks circled in red&quot; title=&quot;Close up photo of a 3D printed model with three pockmarks circled in red&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5579" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2023-07-27T14:42:25.653" LastActivityDate="2023-07-27T14:42:25.653" Title="What is causing these pockmarks?" Tags="|troubleshooting|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21246" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-07-27T23:05:25.697" Score="0" ViewCount="76" Body="&lt;p&gt;When homing the 3D printer or running &lt;code&gt;G29&lt;/code&gt;, the X &amp;amp; Y axes are grinding and not moving fully to the correct position. When I run the following G-code the print moves to the correct position with no issue &lt;code&gt;G0 X300.0 Y700.0 F7000&lt;/code&gt; I was trying to debug the issue as I thought it had something to do with the homing and probing feed rate but after running &lt;code&gt;G0 F7000&lt;/code&gt; I think that is not the issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a custom printer I have built myself, any help would be appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Video:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1st move is &lt;code&gt;G0 X190.0 Y331.0 F9000&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2nd move is homing to the centre of the bed&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/uBu8OgXo9vE?start=0&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Firmware: Marlin 2.1&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Printer Type: Cartesian&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36882" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2023-07-28T13:23:22.697" LastActivityDate="2023-07-28T13:23:22.697" Title="Steppers grinding when homing Marlin" Tags="|marlin|diy-3d-printer|stepper|homing|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21250" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-07-28T18:43:12.527" Score="2" ViewCount="96" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a number of models to print that are supposed to be orientated in a specific way for printing so the layer lines go in the same direction (purely aesthetic), and to ensure that shrinkage occurs evenly so that they fit together nicely (and so that you can fit more on the bed in one go).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For most of the models the suggested orientation is great, but some of the models have a very low contact area with the bed, which has caused me some problems with print failure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The models are supposed to print support free, or with minimal supports.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would adding supports in places that they are absolutely not necessary in order to provide me with more surface area help to improve bed adhesion on a Filament printer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know from experience that this is effective with rafts\skates on a resin print that pulls away from the print bed, but filament is different and I have minimal experience with it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The top image is one such model in the official suggested orientation. It is designed to be completely support free, but has poor bed adhesion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bottom image has additional &amp;quot;unnecessary&amp;quot; supports added to give it a significantly increased surface area on the bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dkGWf.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dkGWf.png&quot; alt=&quot;Example&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this an effective way to improve bed adhesion?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I understand that there are many other techniques that can be used to improve adhesion, such as using an adhesion promoting chemical (AKA Gluestick), or using rafts\brims, but could we please avoid discussing those here, as I want to focus in on one specific thing right now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The printer is a Bambu P1P, but I also have an Ender 5. Plain matte PLA.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="29097" LastActivityDate="2023-09-03T14:59:01.887" Title="Can &quot;unnecessary&quot; supports be used effectively to improve bed adhesion on objects with a low surface contact area?" Tags="|adhesion|support-structures|bambu|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21251" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-07-29T05:33:12.327" Score="0" ViewCount="983" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I first bought the Ender 3 S1 Pro, everything worked fine, but at some point, the auto-leveling stopped working. I used to manually level it every dozen or so prints (sheet of paper method) just to make sure things were close, then auto-level before each print. Now, I can manually level it, but once it is manually leveled. If I tell it to auto-level, it will fail with a &amp;quot;203 probe failed&amp;quot;, usually on the first probe point. I've actually almost given up on the auto-leveling and I have removed the &lt;code&gt;G29&lt;/code&gt; from the initial G-code.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I will admit, I have once or twice manually leveled it and tried to then auto-level, just to see if it would work, and gotten to complete an auto-level, but if I then put &lt;code&gt;G29&lt;/code&gt; in the next G-code I want to print, it will fail with the same &amp;quot;probe failed&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any clue what may have happened here? Before I buy another CR Touch sensor and replace it just to have another one fail. Is there something I can &amp;quot;reset&amp;quot;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="39345" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2023-07-29T14:20:57.683" LastActivityDate="2023-07-29T14:20:57.683" Title="Ender 3 S1 Pro Probe Failed when auto-levelling even after manual level" Tags="|creality-ender-3|troubleshooting|z-probe|automatic-bed-leveling|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21252" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21253" CreationDate="2023-07-29T18:06:12.837" Score="1" ViewCount="48" Body="&lt;p&gt;When shipped from the factory to retail the Ender 5 comes packaged in a series of layers using shaped foam.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In order to repackage an Ender 5 in its original box (for example, for transport or storage) it must be dismantled and placed back in this foam packaging in a specific order and arrangement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What does this order and arrangement look like, with pictures if possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is &amp;quot;how do I deconstruct&amp;quot; question, the opposite to &amp;quot;how do I build&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="29097" LastActivityDate="2023-07-30T11:55:46.097" Title="What does an Ender 5 look like in its original foam packaging?" Tags="|creality-ender-5|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21253" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21252" CreationDate="2023-07-30T11:43:10.897" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Watch this in reverse:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/0f0kOz9zR0Q?start=0&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &amp;quot;unboxing&amp;quot; ends at &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0f0kOz9zR0Q&amp;amp;t=165&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;2:45&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Screenshots in reverse order:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zr7vC.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zr7vC.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vUFcm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vUFcm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AquF5.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AquF5.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4bLdC.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4bLdC.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/10rl8.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/10rl8.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wb8kw.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wb8kw.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MRnuk.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MRnuk.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/m8Ipq.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/m8Ipq.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vVD92.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vVD92.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MzAmg.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MzAmg.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/z07QG.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/z07QG.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IgT8e.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IgT8e.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OKc9s.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OKc9s.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SbWpS.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SbWpS.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IWcli.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IWcli.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bNQNe.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bNQNe.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UaMhj.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UaMhj.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cdAMB.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cdAMB.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zDfTz.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zDfTz.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rDEh9.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rDEh9.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MIbIq.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MIbIq.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wRTm0.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wRTm0.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4762" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2023-07-30T11:55:46.097" LastActivityDate="2023-07-30T11:55:46.097" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21254" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20529" CreationDate="2023-07-30T14:43:03.133" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;My printer was doing this.  I looked all over to try and find a solution on my own.  One person said that it was a faulty thermister so having found no other solution I got on the Creality customer support chat and they sent me a file called &lt;a href=&quot;https://szscxswkjgfyxgs1.qiyukf.net/a758e1c546fb39cfa1fd61febc8bf86a?download=PID.rar&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;code&gt;PID.gcode&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/a&gt;.  I ran the file on the printer and it fixed my issue immediately.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="39361" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2023-07-30T15:11:24.027" LastActivityDate="2023-07-30T15:11:24.027" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21256" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-07-31T10:20:19.683" Score="0" ViewCount="195" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have received an STL file from a designer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This file can be 3D printed after slicing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I am far from home and from the printer so currently it is impossible to print this model.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wish though measure some dimensions for correctness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another fact: I don't have access to Windows computer, only an Android based tablet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So a very similar question to &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/3302/tool-to-measure-in-stl-files?newreg=1d91099056dd45f2a438ebaa1ce2c8f7&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which Android tool is able to present (i.e. view), AND measure dimensions in an STL?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Preferably without strong network connection requirement (i.e. not browser-based)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="39367" LastActivityDate="2023-07-31T10:20:19.683" Title="Android app to view and measure dimensions of STL?" Tags="|3d-models|software|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21257" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-08-01T09:51:08.393" Score="1" ViewCount="59" Body="&lt;p&gt;My printer started off as an Anet A6. I've switched it to an aluminum extrusion frame, installed a BLTouch, switched everything to 24 V, gave it an ARM controller, etc. Printing runs over Octoprint. Material is ASA at 255 °C with the bed at 95 °C.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After my most recent modification (switching to IGUS plastic bearings and the aforementioned aluminum frame) I'm experiencing a printing error. The vertical holes are skewed diagonally (picture provided). This seems to be almost not visible at 40 mm/s, substantial at 60 mm/s, and crazy at 80 mm/s (I don't print at this speed but just for testing).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dvKxK.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Drawing showing two circles misaligned in both the X and Y directions&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dvKxK.png&quot; alt=&quot;Drawing showing two circles misaligned in both the X and Y directions&quot; title=&quot;Drawing showing two circles misaligned in both the X and Y directions&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since it is diagonal, I can't think of a source of the problem. The larger geometries don't seem to be affected. Mostly 3 mm screw holes turn out bad.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any suggestions on where to look for the source of the problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19335" LastEditorUserId="36802" LastEditDate="2023-12-25T17:51:19.717" LastActivityDate="2023-12-25T17:51:19.717" Title="Why are printed holes skewed diagonally?" Tags="|print-quality|fdm|octoprint|skr-mini-e3|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21258" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20541" CreationDate="2023-08-01T16:39:38.900" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am very sorry for the incomplete information and for getting back to you after a long time. The problem was that I did not set the pull-up, pull-down status of the endstops in the firmware.Thank you for friends who are interested.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37141" LastActivityDate="2023-08-01T16:39:38.900" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21262" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-08-02T18:17:14.437" Score="0" ViewCount="26" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not quite sure whats going on here, seems to happen at most temperatures and changing Z offset height doesn't change anything until it starts to cause stringing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lxjM5.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lxjM5.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Image of my first layer with the issue&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="39401" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2023-08-02T18:23:52.200" LastActivityDate="2023-08-02T18:23:52.200" Title="Weird ripple issue on first layer" Tags="|creality-ender-3|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21263" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21272" CreationDate="2023-08-02T22:06:14.120" Score="0" ViewCount="52" Body="&lt;p&gt;After replacing the nozzle on my Creatbot F430 printer, I auto-leveled the bed and initiated a test print - a simple square with a 2 mm thickness. However, I observed that the thickness of the printed model is inconsistent, varying between 1.5 mm and 1.7 mm. I'm wondering the Z-Offset is affecting this, or I shouldn't really worry about 0.3 mm / 0.5 mm difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Nozzle Size is 0.4 mm&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nYktJ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Printer Setting&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nYktJ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Printer Setting&quot; title=&quot;Printer Setting&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36876" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2023-08-02T22:17:58.720" LastActivityDate="2023-08-09T00:02:15.010" Title="The thickness of my model is not always accurate. How do I solve this?" Tags="|z-axis|nozzle|simplify3d|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21272" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21263" CreationDate="2023-08-03T22:55:08.923" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes the Z offset needs to be redone each time a nozzle is removed even if you re install the same size.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another thing to verify is to ensure the slicer is actually set with a 0.4mm nozzle&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36655" LastEditorUserId="19223" LastEditDate="2023-08-09T00:02:15.010" LastActivityDate="2023-08-09T00:02:15.010" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21273" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21250" CreationDate="2023-08-03T23:06:30.060" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Anything that increase the contact surface withe the bed and is attached with the part will help with adhesion, so using unnecessary support can work, however as you will have to build it for many layers it is neither efficient in terms of wasted material, nor in terms of time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The solutions you do not want to discuss, notably the brim should solve this type of problem in a more efficient manner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36655" LastActivityDate="2023-08-03T23:06:30.060" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21274" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-08-04T00:05:06.350" Score="0" ViewCount="29" Body="&lt;p&gt;Every time I print a dome-like shape, some of the last layers will be under extruded. Strangely, the very last few layers extrude fine. So, I just end up with ugly unextruded halos on all of my prints with curves. My extrusion otherwise is fair otherwise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jgC3n.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jgC3n.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Slicer: Cura&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Printer: Ultimaker 2 Go w/ e3D v6 1.75 mm hotend&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Filament: Prusament 1.75 mm PLA&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Temp: 215 ˚C&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Speed: 110 mm/s (trying to get fast - ultimate goal)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Retraction speed: 25 mm/s&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Retraction distance: 2.5 mm&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37597" LastEditorUserId="37597" LastEditDate="2023-08-04T02:22:45.943" LastActivityDate="2023-08-04T02:22:45.943" Title="Underextrusion on top of curves" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|underextrusion|ultimaker-2|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21285" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21286" CreationDate="2023-08-05T13:44:47.947" Score="1" ViewCount="239" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Problem:&lt;/strong&gt; The first layer on the bed was printed fine, but it seems the filament got stuck or something and wouldn't stick to the bed, but instead to the nozzle. Note, it also got behind the blue rubber part. This is the work of about half an hour of printing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Info:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Anycubic Kobra&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;stock nozzle&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;stock bed&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B0834W5L3L&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;PLA filament&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;nozzle temp: 200 °C&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;bed temp: 60 °C&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Question:&lt;/strong&gt; How would I go on about removing the filament around the nozzle?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Attempt:&lt;/strong&gt; I tried to cut it away, but it has already dried out, making it quite hard. I did some research, but I could only find ways to unclog the nozzle itself (given that the nozzle can be reached, which is not the case). My fear is, if I continue to try to break it off, I'll break the whole part. I could heat up the nozzle hoping for the filament to melt again, but that'll probably make it worse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QgWPY.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Photo of a blob of filament stuck around the nozzle&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QgWPY.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Photo of a blob of filament stuck around the nozzle&quot; title=&quot;Photo of a blob of filament stuck around the nozzle&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="39443" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2023-08-05T14:20:18.660" LastActivityDate="2023-08-05T15:52:08.817" Title="How do I remove clogged filament around a nozzle" Tags="|troubleshooting|pla|nozzle|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21286" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21285" CreationDate="2023-08-05T15:52:08.817" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You need heat to remove that. If you're hesitant to heat up the hotend, you can use a soldering iron or a butter knife heated over a lighter to start attacking the blob from the outside to get it down to a more managable size. A heat gun or even a hair dryer is also an option; the latter won't melt it, but may soften it enough to be pliable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you get the bulk of the blob off and are able to remove the silicone sock, a brass wire brush is the tool to use to clean off the remainder. To do this, the hotend needs to be hot, and you need to avoid brushing around where the wires go in so you don't accidentally break the wire insulation and cause a short. If there's plastic stuck there at the base of the wires, a toothpick can be used to remove it while the hotend is hot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2023-08-05T15:52:08.817" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21287" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-08-05T20:07:32.580" Score="-1" ViewCount="167" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an Ender 3 with the silent board, BLTouch, and Marlin 2.0.6 installed. Recently I've the problem of the extruder not moving while printing, but works fine during testing. I tried changing the motherboard (that's when I installed the silent board) and changing the motor, but nothing worked. I usually use the CURA 5.3.0 slicer, but I also tried the Creality slicer and it still did not work. During print the extruder does not move, but it rocks back and forth during the initial purge before the print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I fix this issue?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="39446" LastActivityDate="2024-01-04T00:08:35.937" Title="Extruder motor not turning while printing, but works while testing on Ender 3" Tags="|creality-ender-3|extruder|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21288" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21287" CreationDate="2023-08-06T22:47:26.537" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found the problem, it was a bad cable. I just changed the cable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="39446" LastActivityDate="2023-08-06T22:47:26.537" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21289" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-08-07T08:59:48.300" Score="1" ViewCount="150" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just updated the firmware of my Ender 5 Pro to &lt;code&gt;Ender-5 ProMarlin2.0.6HW4.2.2GDBLTouchFilament&lt;/code&gt;. Since then my printer won't return to its correct home.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When it starts printing, it moves to the middle but drops the build plate about 4 cm then extrudes a little bit of filament, then the build plate and extruder start to cool down, and the progress bar continues going up despite everything else being at a halt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="39458" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2023-08-07T14:09:52.753" LastActivityDate="2023-08-07T14:09:52.753" Title="Why won't my Ender 5 Pro move back to its home and won't print after firmware update?" Tags="|firmware|creality-ender-5|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21290" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-08-07T18:44:26.820" Score="0" ViewCount="26" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was trying to manual-level my printbed when the 3D Touch sensor quit contacting the build plate,causing the nozzle to crash into the print bed,how do i fix this(like it should be at y0 but its at negative y (x=0,y=0 is frontleft on my printer)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No changes have been made to the printer or model&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="39462" LastEditorUserId="39462" LastEditDate="2023-08-09T02:15:10.563" LastActivityDate="2023-08-09T02:15:10.563" Title="Longer LK4X Printer 3D touch sensor not contacting build plate on position 1" Tags="|3dtouch|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21291" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-08-08T02:33:05.293" Score="0" ViewCount="47" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Flashforge Guider IIs and have been having lots of problems with warping ASA and ABS. The filament's recommended bed temp is 80-100 °C on the ASAk I have wasted kilograms of filament testing every setting in the slice, raft, no raft, brim every layer height imaginable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I ran the bed at 110 °C and that didn't help. With the fans off, the print would always lift on the front right-hand side so I got my thermal imaging camera and checked the bed. Set at 110 °C the bed had a 3-4 degree variation across its surface and only reached 98 °C. I then preheated it to the maximum setting and the hottest point on the bed was only 108 °C. I resliced the model to 120 °C bed temp and have had no warping since.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is: can the bed temp be recalibrated such that the bed gets to the temp indicated on the screen?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user39469" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2023-08-08T03:52:57.033" LastActivityDate="2023-08-08T03:52:57.033" Title="Bed temp issue on Guider IIs" Tags="|temperature|bed|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21292" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-08-08T09:46:29.647" Score="0" ViewCount="166" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is a &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/q/21186/2206&quot;&gt;similar question&lt;/a&gt; First layer prints just fine, then at second or third layer the printer just unsticks the small parts and makes a mess. But the solution is &amp;quot;Use brim&amp;quot;. And it sure works where brim can be used, but it can't be used in some situations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can print single parts of any size just fine, from small to big. I can print a lot of small parts using the &amp;quot;one at a time&amp;quot; option (complete one part before starting another) just fine, and it will be usually faster than the &amp;quot;all at once&amp;quot; (layer 0 of all parts, then layer 1 of all parts...).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Adding a bunch of brim helps, but it's not always viable. Recently I made a bunch of button caps, with manual material replacement mid-way, for  labels on them. I managed by adding so much brim they all merged into one big surface at layer 0.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But if I wanted to print an articulated &amp;quot;chainmail&amp;quot; material, or similar print-in-place articulated prints, brim will be next to impossible to remove without breaking the fragile joints merging the pieces. How to solve this problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Material: PLA, Printer: Longer LK5 Pro (a close Ender 3s derivative, just big). Ceramic-coated glass bed.  60C bed temp, 200C nozzle temp, Octoprint. Tried both clean bed (water+detergent then isopropyl), and coating it with glue stick, problem persists.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2206" LastActivityDate="2023-12-24T17:04:10.483" Title="Bad adhesion only when printing many small parts &quot;all at once&quot; - can't use Brim" Tags="|heated-bed|adhesion|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21294" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21218" CreationDate="2023-08-08T16:18:03.240" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It really depends on the resin. In some resins like ESD components can sediment down to the floor of the VAT. In that case the best option is really to empty&#xA;the tank and shake the bottle / container. Its one of the benefits of the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.solidator.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Solidator 3D-Printer&lt;/a&gt; that the Solidator Resins do not sediment and you can keep the material in the tank for several keeps without issues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="39479" LastActivityDate="2023-08-08T16:18:03.240" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21296" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-08-08T23:16:22.510" Score="0" ViewCount="52" Body="&lt;p&gt;I’m new to the printing scene and got an Ender 3 Neo Max. I printed a couple of models with no problem, then the filament just stopped dispersing. I figured I had a clog, so I tried to shove something up the nozzle and it wouldn’t go in. I disassembled the piece and took the nozzle off, put a new nozzle on, and the filament still wouldn’t disperse. Any tips?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="39485" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2024-03-04T03:54:31.630" LastActivityDate="2024-03-04T03:54:31.630" Title="3D printer not printing" Tags="|pla|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2024-03-07T20:07:43.610" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21299" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-08-09T05:15:47.697" Score="0" ViewCount="37" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Creality CR-10 Max. When I start heating up the hotend, it always suddenly turns off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did check the resistance of the heater it was about 4 Ω. The heater itself have 40 W and 24 V. So the resistance should be about 14-15 Ω.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any idea what happened to my printer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="39486" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2023-08-09T14:15:25.163" LastActivityDate="2023-08-09T14:15:25.163" Title="Printer turns off after heating up the hotend" Tags="|nozzle|creality-cr-10|temperature|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21300" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-08-09T12:16:49.560" Score="2" ViewCount="2914" Body="&lt;p&gt;Relatively new to 3D printing but have learnt a lot, I just need some help on the finishing process. I currently have some print-in-place PLA figures I need to sand down and some have holes I need to fill in (we made a bit of a mistake on layer thickness). I have a fair amount of hands-on experience with sanding and filling from my tenure making sculptures from foam/cardboard and the like but I'm unsure on the materials for plastic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That being said, is regular poly-filler or wall filler okay? This is what I've used before while making sculptures, so I have the most experience with it. Or should I be looking for something more specialist or specific like using a two-part resin for filling and sanding that down? (I do have access to a well ventilated space I can do this in.) Should I simply go over everything with a soldering iron?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These figures will be primed and painted afterwards, so I would prefer if the filling material was relatively easy to paint over. Colour doesn't matter as long as it gets the job done though. :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="39490" LastEditorUserId="8353" LastEditDate="2023-08-14T07:08:12.063" LastActivityDate="2023-08-14T07:08:12.063" Title="What materials can I use to fill gaps in PLA?" Tags="|pla|post-processing|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21302" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-08-10T08:46:10.587" Score="1" ViewCount="134" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have Ender 3 with Klipper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my config:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;[stepper_y]&#xA;step_pin: PB10&#xA;dir_pin: !PB2&#xA;enable_pin: !PB11&#xA;microsteps: 16&#xA;rotation_distance: 40&#xA;endstop_pin: ^PC1&#xA;position_min: -30&#xA;position_endstop: -30&#xA;position_max: 200&#xA;homing_speed: 50&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With this, when I issue &lt;code&gt;G1 X0 Y0&lt;/code&gt; the printhead is actually at 0,0 above left bottom corner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But then it may not move farther than 200 mm on Y axis.&#xA;How do I retrieve those 20 mm?&#xA;How do I set an Y offset?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not that I print that much, but it doesn't work with the print bed calibration model. So it tries to travel to &lt;code&gt;Y209&lt;/code&gt; and fails.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31022" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2023-08-13T13:22:42.913" LastActivityDate="2023-08-13T13:22:42.913" Title="How to fix Y axis is off by 30 mm?" Tags="|klipper|skr-mini-e3|ender3|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21303" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21300" CreationDate="2023-08-10T09:05:29.167" Score="3" Body="&lt;h2&gt;CA Glue&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;for very small holes or print defects, I like to use a droplet of CA glue, which fills those small defects.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In combination with baking soda, it can fill even larger gaps and voids. Glass or plastic pearls and sand also can work as material for filling, as can sanding dust.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Filler-Primer Spray&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While not useful for moles larger than about half a millimeter, filler primer sprays can cover over and hide dimples, scratches from sanding as well as layer lines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Filler paste&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Be it Plasto, Tamiya putty or wall filler, small to medium defects and dimples can be filled with these compounds. Plasto in particular has a rather aggressive solvent in it, that strips through paint, so keep that in mind. Among similar products, Tamiya has a range of filler pastes I have good experience with, very similar to Plasto, and is available in different styles for different plastics.&#xA;In even larger packaging, 3M 05096 is a very decent acrylic filler and comes in industrial-sized 411 g/14.5 oz compared to the about 30 grams of hobby fillers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;PLA soldering&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have a &lt;strong&gt;clean&lt;/strong&gt; soldering iron or 3D pen, you can use spare filament pieces to melt and fill gaps or even join parts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;2 Component Resin&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A favorite of mine for smoothing over organic surfaces is coating them in two-component resin and letting that dry. The result is usually super smooth, but this is not useful to fill in larger holes that need to be built up first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;&amp;quot;Greenstuff&amp;quot; et al&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A better alternative for filling up medium to large holes in a print is using a material akin to Greenstuff, Milliput, or any other glue putty, such as Pattex Repair Express, Uhu Epoxy Repair All or many others. These two component resins start as two strips of gumlike consistency and after mixing turn into a hard polymer over the next 5 minutes to 12 hours, depending on the formulation. This stuff can make a structural replacement for even the largest holes, and be smoothed mechanically.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2023-08-10T21:39:14.520" LastActivityDate="2023-08-10T21:39:14.520" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21304" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-08-10T17:59:21.757" Score="1" ViewCount="19" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hey all I have an Ender 3 V1 and I have a problem with it under extruding. Its not putting out enough PLA to stick and it just becomes a mess. (Bed has a magnetic PEI plate that only has a few uses) Occasionally it will put out a little more on one side or another and it would stick, or the first few layers would stick but just be super thin, and then the next layers wouldnt stick at all. I initially just thought it was that the bed was too far away from the nozzle, that wasnt it. I Releveled the bed but that wasnt it. Speeds, temp and everything seem fine when it was printing good, I messed with them a little but it had little effect. I did a cold pull and still no change. Replaced nozzle completely and it started printing great again. I printed probably 8 or 10 things flawlessly. Using the printer at least daily. I stopped printing for about a week or so and when i went back to printing it proceeded to do the same thing. Is there an easy fix for this? Anuy suggestions would be great! Appreciate it in Advance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="39505" LastActivityDate="2023-08-10T17:59:21.757" Title="How would I fix an under extrusion problem?" Tags="|underextrusion|ender3|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21305" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21300" CreationDate="2023-08-10T20:05:33.143" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've had good success with UV-cure glue as a filler. It's reasonably hard when cured yet sands easily. It takes paint well.  It has the advantages of unlimited working time and a very quick cure time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="33030" LastActivityDate="2023-08-10T20:05:33.143" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21308" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18437" CreationDate="2023-08-11T16:34:53.787" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Get a tent for growing smokey plants :)&#xA;Think about it, they can be of big sizes and maintain heat inside, reflective material on the inside.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="39518" LastActivityDate="2023-08-11T16:34:53.787" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21309" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-08-11T19:01:48.670" Score="0" ViewCount="52" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an Ender 3 and during my recent prints, the nozzle pushes the print off, misaligning the thing. I had run practically an entire spool of PLA without this issue. I have an auto-leveler (CR Touch) installed and am using Cura to slice. The attached picture shows one print that went well, then the very next print (from the exact same G-code) showing the initial print of the drawbridge getting pushed off (I snipped the excess), and the bottom shows the very next print where the entire bottom of the print is off by almost an inch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What can I do to fix this issue? TYIA!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WKvbv.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WKvbv.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="39519" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2023-08-11T19:25:13.793" LastActivityDate="2023-08-11T19:25:13.793" Title="Ender 3 nozzle pushing print after first 2 layer" Tags="|creality-ender-3|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21311" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-08-12T06:59:19.483" Score="-1" ViewCount="104" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm brand new to 3D printing and I have had to make so &lt;strong&gt;many&lt;/strong&gt; adjustments just to get a decent print on the Ender 3. Its hardware is 4.2.2 and the firmware is 2.0.8.2. When I ordered it, it did not come with a user guide so I have spent the last week just getting it properly adjusted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The last thing I just did was set the E-steps because I've been having a consistent extruder skipping issue and when I did the measurements for the E-steps, I got &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$\frac{90}{71}\times93 = 117.8$&lt;/span&gt;, and now right when it starts to print it expels all filament! I'm getting progressively exhausted from spending so many days just trying to get this right. I'll start a print and in the middle of the night the filament just stops printing and it turns out that after manually moving the extruder using the display, it was at least 50+ mm behind! I don't want to give up on this new hobby. So please, can someone please guide me in getting this right? I've 3D printed a few small objects when the thing shouldn't have even been functional, but doing a long print, it doesn't even clog! The filament just retracts so far. So far, here's what I have done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fixed the X-axis wobble by adjusting the off-set nut&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fixed the printer head wobble by adjusting the eccentric nut&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Unwound and rewound an amount of PLA roll&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ensured the PTFE tube that goes into the printer head is flushed with nozzle and retainer clips are installed.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Put stock PLA roll holder right up to the Z-axis screw so it wouldn't get caught or have too much tension.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Leveled the bed with feeler gauges on all 4 furthest corners, I started with 0.2 mm and moved it so it's just barely touching the 0.1 mm gauge.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The list is small since in between each fix is a few hours of a failed print and researching each aspect of the printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To address the main point, I have been having an issue where the extruder skips, I wake up to the filament moved back beyond the nozzle, adjusted E-steps and now the filament un-extrudes about 100 mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="39527" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2023-08-12T19:35:57.810" LastActivityDate="2024-01-09T21:04:25.477" Title="I adjusted the E-steps from 93 to 117.8, now it retracts all filament" Tags="|creality-ender-3|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21312" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21311" CreationDate="2023-08-12T18:14:32.993" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is no way that a change from 93 to 117.8 is correct. Filament hobs do not vary in diameter, tooth depth, filament squeeze, etc. by anywhere near that much. A measurement result that suggests you need more than a 5% change from the factory setting almost certainly means something is physically broken in your extruder. Maybe a crack in the arm, a spring with no tension, etc. You need to set the value back and track down what the real problem is before you try to tune esteps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2023-08-12T18:14:32.993" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21313" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-08-12T19:45:10.873" Score="0" ViewCount="46" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am trying to print a hollow shell from a mesh I generated in Blender.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The model itself has zero-thickness and I am using Cura &amp;quot;walls&amp;quot; option to create the print. However. The model is designed to be filled with sand for weight and then have a plastic plug secured in the bottom to retain the sand once filled. I simply use a drill to create the &amp;quot;penetration&amp;quot; into the hollow model once the print is complete since Cura finds printing a shell with non-manifold geometry to be illegal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The concave recess is on the bottom of the model, to allow for the thickness of the rubber plug and still sit flush on the table. Unfortunately it seems this concave cavity I designed is removed in Cura automatically. I have been unsuccessful in figuring out how to get this recessed area to print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Shown below are slightly different models. I tried importing the mesh into Fusion to &amp;quot;add wall thickness&amp;quot; to the cylindrical recess but it was still removed automatically by Cura as an un-printable overhang/hole?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kQ3KQ.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kQ3KQ.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nE0C0.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nE0C0.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iQM7E.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iQM7E.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="39531" LastActivityDate="2023-08-12T19:45:10.873" Title="Printing hollow shell with concave recess (&quot;fill plug&quot;) -- Cura automatically fills in &quot;fill plug&quot;" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|troubleshooting|3d-models|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21314" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-08-13T14:27:53.743" Score="0" ViewCount="33" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have run into an issue in which my extruder motor isn't running on my Voxelab Aquila. This issue just came up yesterday when I started a print and noticed that while the X and Y axes were moving just fine and it was going through the motions, absolutely no filament was coming out. I could manually push filament through to the hot end so I ruled out a clog, and after canceling the print, I pulled the filament back a bit and told it to auto-load, which it failed to do - the filament did not move at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Initially, I thought maybe the motor had died on me, but after swapping the X and Extruder plugs, I found the motor itself is running just fine. After that, I figured maybe it was just the cable itself, but I've swapped the extruder cable for the X cable and it's moving the X-axis motor as if nothing is wrong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have not been noticing unusual errors in my prints, so I believe this is a sudden problem - in fact, I just completed a successful series of prints last week that took around 20 hours total. The only thing that I think may have been an indicator of trouble is a smell somewhat similar to a hair dryer that got extremely strong yesterday before I decided to test the motor. I know I have read complaints in the past about the mainboard in the Aquila, could this be a problem there?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="39534" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2023-08-13T14:47:17.737" LastActivityDate="2023-08-13T14:47:17.737" Title="Extruder motor not running" Tags="|extrusion|motor|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21315" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21327" CreationDate="2023-08-13T15:25:58.830" Score="3" ViewCount="508" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am using an Ender 3 Pro that I bought near the end of March 2023, and I have not modified any of its parts. About an hour ago, I tried preheating the hotend (using the 'Preheat PLA End' setting) and heard a buzzing sound coming from the parts cooling fan.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;I tried cleaning the fan and made sure it was connected properly, which made the noise a bit quieter but didn't make it go away.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What is causing this noise?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Can it be fixed without replacing the fan?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If so, how?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I will keep trying to understand and fix the problem, and will add updates if I find more info.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37787" LastActivityDate="2023-08-16T10:26:51.150" Title="Ender 3 Pro: Parts cooling fan making strange noises" Tags="|creality-ender-3|print-fan|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21316" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21318" CreationDate="2023-08-14T13:23:58.597" Score="0" ViewCount="45" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am having trouble with my print here, specifically with the part laying on the green support:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Cl58L.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Print preview of a 3D model in PrusaSlicer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Cl58L.png&quot; alt=&quot;Print preview of a 3D model in PrusaSlicer&quot; title=&quot;Print preview of a 3D model in PrusaSlicer&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems the edge running on the supports does not stick to it and it wants to curl upwards :&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oSIXG.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Photo of a printed model curling upwards on the buildplate&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oSIXG.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Photo of a printed model curling upwards on the buildplate&quot; title=&quot;Photo of a printed model curling upwards on the buildplate&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have reduced layer height to 0.1 mm and support Z distance to 0.05 mm. I am using the tight support setting in prusa slicer. The perimeter is printed at 35 mm/s and the temperatures are 200 °C and 73 °C for the bed to print PLA+.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is what I would like to get close to side by side with the current result. The good one is printed upside down and takes me 23h to print instead of 12h, so I would like to find a good fix for this ;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/u8cyj.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Photo of the same printed model with one upside down above the other&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/u8cyj.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Photo of the same printed model with one upside down above the other&quot; title=&quot;Photo of the same printed model with one upside down above the other&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="39509" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2023-08-14T16:46:18.810" LastActivityDate="2023-08-14T18:56:16.990" Title="How to improve quality of edge over support" Tags="|pla|creality-cr-10|support-structures|prusaslicer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21317" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-08-14T16:52:17.460" Score="1" ViewCount="3934" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently updated my Creality Sonic Pad to v1.0.6.49.145 (June 28, 2023 release) and since I applied that update, I've been consistently receiving the error when attempting to print any G-code file:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Error Message:&#xA;Unable to parse move 'G1 X251.931 Y187.6.324 E35.93675'&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UmHSg.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Screenshot of error message on the Creality Sonic Pad&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UmHSg.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Screenshot of error message on the Creality Sonic Pad&quot; title=&quot;Screenshot of error message on the Creality Sonic Pad&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;(The coordinates in the error message above change based on the model I'm attempting to print, I've just added these for reference.)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The printer just freezes in place after completing line two and does not advance, then briefly throws this error on the screen. (I had to sit and watch it because the error only appears on screen for about 5 seconds.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It doesn't matter what model or slicer (Cura or Creality Slicer) I use to create the file, I still get the message.  I also receive the message on any files that I successfully printed before the update and have tried to re-print as a test.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For reference, I'm running:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Printer: Creality Ender V3 Max Neo&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Slicers: Ultimaker Cura 5.4.0 and Creality Slicer 4.8.2&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;macOS Monterey 12.3&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Models transferred via USB drive and Moonraker.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas on how to get past this error?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user37619" LastEditorUserId="36802" LastEditDate="2023-11-02T13:04:42.423" LastActivityDate="2024-01-24T23:35:18.563" Title="How to fix a Creality Sonic Pad error that appears after the first few lines of printing?" Tags="|creality-ender-3|slicing|creality|klipper|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21318" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21316" CreationDate="2023-08-14T18:56:16.990" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This looks like inadequate cooling. If this is PLA, it's probably a matter of PLA this close to a hot bed being unable to cool enough not to still be soft - the heat from the bed will continually heat the part, and it doesn't take much heat to keep it soft. If you're using a bed temperature of 60°C (common recoommendation for PLA) this is hopelessly too hot for any small parts with overhangs to print close to the bed. Try reducing it or printing with a completely cold bed using a non-heat-based method for adhesion. Some good ones are a textured surface like painter's tape/&amp;quot;blue tape&amp;quot;, especially roughed up with light sanding, or an adhesive aid like glue stick or hair spray.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2023-08-14T18:56:16.990" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21319" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-08-14T19:55:10.337" Score="0" ViewCount="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;My nozzle gets clogged when it starts to do smoothing. Settings below:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LfIFR.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Top/Bottom settings&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LfIFR.png&quot; alt=&quot;Top/Bottom settings&quot; title=&quot;Top/Bottom settings&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="39549" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2023-08-15T11:59:56.727" LastActivityDate="2023-08-15T11:59:56.727" Title="The nozzle becomes clogged in the smoothing mode" Tags="|ender3|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21320" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-08-15T05:39:32.207" Score="1" ViewCount="32" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm making a flip sign of sorts. The backing of a sign of this type is normally affixed to sheet metal, or the supporting structure behind the sheet metal. My fear was the plastic would crack during the riveting process (it's been forever, maybe this is not a concern) or if self tappers were used and someone just kept their finger on the drill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Holes for fasteners would be present. The fasteners aren't to grab onto the backing, just the sheet metal or metal supports. The head of the fastener would compress against the sign backing holding it in place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Was going to use a Shore 95A TPU until I realized that was softer than I thought. I don't have the experience to know which material is best. :( I have a dual extruder... would it be best to have the hole area in one material and the rest of the backing in another? Possible to fuse in some sort of metal ring?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Was hoping for a greyish material... lighter side if possible for the sign backing. This is because normally this particular sign setup is all metal with a nice all metal finish for the backing. It is the closest match.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The printer that will print the backing can print &amp;quot;anything&amp;quot;... that said it should be somewhat economical. :) If ASA is acceptable this would be great for smoothing purposes and UV resistance. The backing would be 1mm thick... fastener areas could be beefed up if needed; 100% infill if that was done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once attached the backing more than likely would not be removed unless something happened to it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="35576" LastActivityDate="2023-11-17T17:07:01.817" Title="What material can withstand riveting or the compression of self-tapping screws?" Tags="|print-material|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21321" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21319" CreationDate="2023-08-15T07:30:51.513" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The filament conducts heat (not much, but it does), so the heat from the hotend travels backwards towards the cold part. Usually the filament during print moves forward faster than the heat travels backwards, so there is always fresh, cool filament on the back.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In your case, since you move filament 12% of the normal speed (which is not fast already in an Ender 3), the forward motion of the filament is too slow and the heat travelling back softens the filament (50 °C are enough) and it clogs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The solution is to use Polymaker PLA, which is not cheap, but it has been treated to completely avoid this issue, since it doesn't soften at 50 °C but at 100 °C so that even when printing slow it will hold up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2338" LastActivityDate="2023-08-15T07:30:51.513" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21322" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-08-15T11:13:21.073" Score="1" ViewCount="29" Body="&lt;p&gt;To give some more context to my question: it does work as expected (that is the extruder start heating after the bed has reached the set temperature) when I set the bed temperature to be 70 °C or lower. The problem happens when the bed temperature is set to be 90 °C or more. Last time, I set it up to be 98 °C. It did stop heating at 95 °C, then heat the extruder normally. Once the extruder has reached the proper temperature, if I manually restart heating the bed, it works.&#xA;Last time, I saw an &lt;code&gt;M190 S0&lt;/code&gt;, maybe after &lt;code&gt;G28&lt;/code&gt;, not 100% sure about this, though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know if it is linked to lately updating Marlin with the latest bug fixes version. I have been searching in &lt;code&gt;configuration.h&lt;/code&gt; to see if I could find something related, without success.  (Marlin on Ender 5 board V4.2.7)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="39557" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2023-08-15T14:25:55.527" LastActivityDate="2023-08-15T14:25:55.527" Title="Why does my bed stop heating at high temperature when the extruder starts heating?" Tags="|marlin|creality-ender-5|temperature|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21323" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-08-15T18:27:36.920" Score="0" ViewCount="48" Body="&lt;p&gt;My settings were fine but after switching to a new brand of PLA I seem to be getting issues with the first layer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5nnRK.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Photo of the first layer of a 3D printed model showing problems with adhesion and lifting from the build plate&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5nnRK.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Photo of the first layer of a 3D printed model showing problems with adhesion and lifting from the build plate&quot; title=&quot;Photo of the first layer of a 3D printed model showing problems with adhesion and lifting from the build plate&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My previous filament had a print temp between 200 °C and 230 °C. My current settings have the first layer printing at 216 °C and then reducing to 202 °C for all the other layers. On the new filament, I see it has a printing temperature of 205 °C to 220 °C.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am using the heatbed steel sheet by prusa3d.com that originally comes with the printer I have (prusa-i3 mk3). This heatbed attaches magnetically and has a smooth surface. I do also have a second heatbed, unopened, that originally came with the printer as well. This second one has a textured surface and is unused.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Considering the difference in the ranges of the filaments and my current settings, I suspect that the change I need to make would be to reduce the first layer's temperature and increase the temperature for all other layers. Does that seem correct? What else might I try?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="39560" LastEditorUserId="39560" LastEditDate="2023-08-15T20:28:44.810" LastActivityDate="2023-08-15T20:28:44.810" Title="First layer issue with new filament" Tags="|pla|prusa-i3|fdm|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21324" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-08-15T18:51:45.783" Score="1" ViewCount="1035" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm moving from a Creality printer to a Bambu printer using Bambu studio.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I often do prints with large flat top surfaces upside down on the bed, and increase the flow rate for the bottom layers only so that the filament from each pass flows more smoothly into the next. Which achieve an effect similar to ironing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, increasing the flow rate to 110% on the first 3 layers printed&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not able to find the option to do this in Bambu studio.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this option missing, called something else, or simply somewhere that I haven't found yet?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="29097" LastActivityDate="2023-08-16T19:16:14.940" Title="How do you increase the flow rate for the bottom layers only in Bambu Studio?" Tags="|slicing|bambu|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21325" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-08-16T07:47:06.293" Score="0" ViewCount="207" Body="&lt;p&gt;The printer has been working perfectly for hundreds of prints. No issues whatsoever. Last week the extruder started clogging. It happens after printing just fine the first half hour or so (3 mm height). The friction through the Bowden seems fine. I'm starting to wonder if the temperature in the nozzle drops and makes feeding impossible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My settings:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Prusa slicer with standard configuration for Creality CR-10S Pro V2&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;0.2 mm layer height on 0.4 mm nozzle&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;E-PLA 1.75 mm filament&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Nozzle temp 210 °C, bed temp 60 °C&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I've tried:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cleaned the extruder various times&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Replaced the bowden tube and it's connectors (it no longer pops out, just clogs)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Replaced nozzle&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tried printing this printer test: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2656594?collect&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2656594?collect&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GFaK9.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Extruder&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GFaK9.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Extruder&quot; title=&quot;Extruder&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3MPy6.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;End results for print test&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3MPy6.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;End results for print test&quot; title=&quot;End results for print test&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="39569" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2023-08-17T22:10:33.553" LastActivityDate="2023-08-17T22:10:33.553" Title="Extruder clogs after a while on Creality CR-10s Pro v2" Tags="|creality-cr-10|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21326" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21325" CreationDate="2023-08-16T08:17:29.373" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is a common issue with Ender printers.  The Bowden tube slips out very very slightly.  And since it's a bowden lined heat break, molten plastic jams between the edge of the tube and the heat break.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a great Chep episode on this:&#xA;&lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/7tCxO17XZtw?start=0&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;or you can switch to an all metal hot-end.  Long term I recommend this.  It's cheap to get a very good one, and will lead to better upgrades down the line.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002907726643.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002907726643.html&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005003982888788.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005003982888788.html&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002854326060.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002854326060.html&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005854409008.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005854409008.html&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005094324313.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005094324313.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="33417" LastActivityDate="2023-08-16T08:17:29.373" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21327" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21315" CreationDate="2023-08-16T10:26:51.150" Score="3" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What is causing this noise?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Can it be fixed without replacing the fan?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If so, how?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The sound was caused by a buildup of filament near the motherboard and in the motherboard fan. After getting rid of the strands, the part cooling fan has stopped making the buzzing noise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37787" LastActivityDate="2023-08-16T10:26:51.150" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21333" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21338" CreationDate="2023-08-18T18:08:48.160" Score="1" ViewCount="50" Body="&lt;p&gt;A long time ago, I went through the experience of adding extra &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10891/weird-temperature-reading-using-thermistor-on-mks-gen-l-v1-0-aux-2-analog-pins&quot;&gt;thermistors&lt;/a&gt; to my 3D printer board. Ultimately, I did get it to work, but it resulted in extra wiring and was not as clean as I would like.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was wondering if there are any ready-made 3D printer boards that support adding extra thermistors. I need 5 thermistors for a large 3D printer with a long heated bed. I need the thermistors to measure the temperature of an extruder, the chamber (in 1-2 spots), and 2-3 spots along the bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since I am looking for a new 3D printer board anyway, are there any boards that support adding extra thermistors using a premade PCB or that come with specific JST connectors for up to 5 thermistors?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10369" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2023-08-18T20:49:12.167" LastActivityDate="2023-08-20T14:23:23.067" Title="Are there any 3D printer boards or expansions that support more than 3 thermistors?" Tags="|electronics|temperature|thermistor|part-identification|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21334" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21186" CreationDate="2023-08-18T18:16:07.277" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;As recently as yesterday, I've had results like yours.  My advice would be to:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;For extra bed adhesion: Set the heated bed to 75 °C (from 60 °C). Make sure you are using some of the Purple Elmer's glue stick on the bed before printing! I'm assuming you already tried this or have gotten other prints to work very well.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Set the &amp;quot;extrusion multiplier&amp;quot; to 0.95. Your goal should be to extrude 93-95 % of the rate of what you were doing previously. You don't want excess filament that was extruded to &amp;quot;catch&amp;quot; the nozzle and be pulled by it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Raise the nozzle up about 0.6 mm from where it is currently. If the nozzle is &amp;quot;clearly&amp;quot; too high, lower by 0.1 mm until it's okay. The nozzle could be too low, pushing the filament out wide when it leaves the nozzle, causing stringing. Don't overlook this. I thought I had my nozzle perfect because the layers were sticking. I didn't think a low nozzle could cause that kind of stringing. But it only worked when I took all these steps, including this one. Also, the low nozzle means that when it raises up for the next layer, it's actually still going to contact the filament that was &amp;quot;extruded out wide&amp;quot; from the previous layer. But I think this would be the problem more likely if it was happening around layer 2 or 3, not 5.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Print the first layer extremely slowly, at about 15 % speed of what you're used to / Slicer defaults if you aren't already. Once you reach the third layer, you can increase the speed again. The second layer might be questionable if there's still some stringing.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If those steps don't work, the problem may have something to do with your Z-axis motor driver not getting enough current, meaning your extruder doesn't actually consistently raise up after each layer consistently.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10369" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2023-08-18T20:53:30.020" LastActivityDate="2023-08-18T20:53:30.020" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21335" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-08-19T09:00:54.683" Score="0" ViewCount="23" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an MKS Robin Pro I was starting a print on and the motors were not moving. The progress bar was running and the extruder temperature was changing (IDEX printer) so I thought it was printing but the motors were not moving, so nothing actually happened. When I home the printer, however, the motors do turn and go to the home position in fact.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know how to fix this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18670" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2023-08-19T14:11:18.837" LastActivityDate="2023-08-19T14:11:18.837" Title="Motors don't move when printing but do when homing" Tags="|marlin|motor|print-failure|homing|mks|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21337" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-08-19T22:18:08.790" Score="1" ViewCount="113" Body="&lt;p&gt;I plan on adding OctoPrint or mainsail to an Ender 3 Pro running Marlin 2.&#xA;As I understand it, the OctoPrint on the Pi runs klipper, which then feeds commands to the Ender 3 Marlin via the USB port.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is the klipper advantage of speed and quality going to get lost going through Marlin (32-bit board)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="39616" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2023-08-19T22:31:38.653" LastActivityDate="2023-08-19T22:31:38.653" Title="New to OctoPrint, how to interface with Marlin Ender 3 Pro" Tags="|creality-ender-3|marlin|octoprint|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21338" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21333" CreationDate="2023-08-20T14:23:23.067" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes. Generally, it will be the boards with lots of steppers (or rather stepstick sockets) which also support lots of heaters/thermistors. For example the BTT Octopus Pro has 4 hotend heater ports, heated bed terminals with dedicated bed power supply, and 5 thermistor ports TB/T0/T1/T2/T3. I suspect other 8-stepper boards are similar, though I haven't checked.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you'll be using Klipper, though, there's no need for lots of ports on the same board. You can use cheap RAMPS boards or old Creality boards or whatever and connect as many as you like to the Klipper host for it to control in sync.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2023-08-20T14:23:23.067" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21339" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-08-20T18:18:15.343" Score="0" ViewCount="52" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had my Ender 3 packed away for the past two years while I was traveling. I came back and reassembled it, but there is no movement from certain motors/wires. I swapped some of the cables around and the x and z axis cables work fine on all motors. Meanwhile, the Y axis cable only works in one direction, and the extruder cable doesn’t work at all. Could it be due to a faulty cable, or is it on the firmware side? And what fixes could there be?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="39621" LastEditorUserId="39621" LastEditDate="2023-08-21T20:52:29.983" LastActivityDate="2023-08-21T20:52:29.983" Title="Ender 3 motor cable not working" Tags="|motor|wiring|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21340" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-08-21T08:45:44.983" Score="1" ViewCount="26" Body="&lt;p&gt;My extruder 1 (IDEX - robin pro board) is locked in position when turning on printer while the other motors are free to move. When I press the disable all steppers button the e0 is still locked while all other steppers are free to move by hand. (When starting a print all motors are still functioning normally) Anyone who knows why or how to fix?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18670" LastActivityDate="2023-08-21T08:45:44.983" Title="Motor still locked after pressing disable all steppers" Tags="|marlin|motor|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21341" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-08-22T06:11:56.497" Score="2" ViewCount="75" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use Elegoo Cura.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The blade and other parts of my print do not get sliced, and I don't know how to fix it&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is what is meant to be printed:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/d5OAA.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;This is what is meant to be printed&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/d5OAA.png&quot; alt=&quot;This is what is meant to be printed&quot; title=&quot;This is what is meant to be printed&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And this is what the print looks like, with the holes inverted, handle gone and the entire blade gone:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XavzQ.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;This is what the print looks like&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XavzQ.png&quot; alt=&quot;This is what the print looks like&quot; title=&quot;This is what the print looks like&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Appreciate any help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="39639" LastEditorUserId="39639" LastEditDate="2023-08-23T04:49:36.563" LastActivityDate="2023-09-25T14:54:20.493" Title="How come certain parts of my model don't print?" Tags="|elegoo-neptune-3|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21342" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-08-22T08:04:34.513" Score="0" ViewCount="25" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like help with the printer. When I wanted to print yesterday, the display wouldn't start, so I restored it and everything worked. Then the motor that pushes the filament didn't want to move, so I cleaned it up a bit. When I wanted to print something, the bed started to heat up, like 120 °C in a few seconds. So, I quickly connected everything and the nozzle showed -15 °C degrees. Then I replaced the whole extruder, and when I turned it on, the temperature was displayed, but it rose within 2 seconds to 250 °C.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The printer is Artillery Genius Pro.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried a new cable to the extruder, and also a new firmware, but it didn't help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I really don't know what to do anymore.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="39640" LastEditorUserId="27865" LastEditDate="2023-08-22T08:58:30.887" LastActivityDate="2023-08-23T13:43:02.653" Title="My nozzle is heating up even when it shouldnt" Tags="|troubleshooting|heat-management|temperature|thermistor|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21345" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21342" CreationDate="2023-08-22T13:20:50.857" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The heaters (and power supply) aren't capable of heating that fast*, so what you've observed seems to be an error in measurement of the temperature, not a sudden increase in temperature. This can be caused by a faulty thermistor, faulty wiring to the thermistor, or something wrong on the controller board where the thermistor connects to the microcontroller.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would first make sure all the connections are not loose, and in the right places. Swapping a thermistor connector with some other type of connector may be able to cause a problem like this; typically a few different things use the same 2-pin JST type connectors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If all the connections are right and you already replaced the hotend assembly (which includes a new thermistor, unless you moved the old one), your board is likely damaged.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(*) Note that this still creates a potential heat/fire danger, because any heating that takes place won't be controlled by accurate measurements of the resulting temperature change! So don't operate it like this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastEditorUserId="11157" LastEditDate="2023-08-23T13:43:02.653" LastActivityDate="2023-08-23T13:43:02.653" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21346" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-08-22T13:23:11.670" Score="0" ViewCount="145" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just got a &lt;strong&gt;20W MOPA fiber laser&lt;/strong&gt; and of course the first thing I do is mark color on &lt;strong&gt;stainless steel&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The center of the squares pictured are the color for which I set the settings. I am wondering why there are those columns of other color on the left and right sides.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/s07wt.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/s07wt.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20748" LastActivityDate="2023-08-23T10:31:33.230" Title="Color phenomenon with MOPA Fiber laser on stainless steel" Tags="|laser|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21348" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-08-22T20:35:33.463" Score="1" ViewCount="80" Body="&lt;p&gt;How do I add a base to the surface I'm trying to print?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Target machine is a Creality Ender 3 Pro.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm using numpy-stl and surf2stl to come up with the desired surface in python:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;def SOquestion():&#xA;   pᵢs = [i / 100 for i in range(50, 96, 1)]&#xA;   pⱼs = pᵢs&#xA;   X, Y = np.meshgrid(pᵢs, pⱼs)&#xA;   Z = pₖGivenpᵢAndpⱼ(X, Y)&#xA;&#xA;   stlFile = &amp;quot;surfaceOfCriticalValues.stl&amp;quot;&#xA;   surf2stl.write(stlFile, X, Y, Z)&#xA;   theMesh = mesh.Mesh.from_file(stlFile)&#xA;&#xA;   plotFromStlFile(stlFile)&#xA;&#xA;@np.vectorize&#xA;def pₖGivenpᵢAndpⱼ(pᵢ, pⱼ):&#xA;    a = pᵢ * pⱼ / ((1 - pᵢ) * (1 - pⱼ))&#xA;    return a / (a + 1)&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want this surface to be printable. I figure I could add the base to the mesh but I don't know how to draw all the triangles?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iMWq2.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iMWq2.png&quot; alt=&quot;Surface3dPlot&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="39648" LastActivityDate="2023-08-29T14:08:01.813" Title="Add base to STL mesh?" Tags="|surface|build-surface|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21350" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21363" CreationDate="2023-08-23T00:39:12.310" Score="0" ViewCount="75" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been having tremendously bad print quality lately and have been doing everything I can think of to fix it, none of it is helping. I tried printing a Temp Tower for the first time and since I was paying close attention to the temperature, I noticed that the printer is making some fairly wild temperature swings. My target temp is 200C and it's swinging between 192C and 207C back and forth, back and forth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/YF7c6JjbZfI?start=0&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That is a video of test printing a cube. Took about 30 mins, video sped up 8x so you can watch the temp changes. It takes about 4 seconds in the video to swing from 192 to 207 so that was about 32 seconds in real time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/d1GMR.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/d1GMR.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;temperature tower I printed when I noticed the unwanted temperature fluctuations&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Monoprice Maker Select Plus&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1.75mm PLA (Hatchbox), bought a brand new box&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cura 5.2.1&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While trying to address the print quality, here are the things I've done before noticing the temperature fluctuations:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;replaced the nozzle&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;replaced the bowden tube&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;leveled the bed&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;calibrated esteps&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;tried brand new box of filament in case other filament absorbed moisture&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;gently tightened the thermistor screw just so that it was snug, but not overly tight&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's the thermistor connection on the hotend:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GWBEY.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GWBEY.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;thermistor connection on the hotend&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any suggestions are welcome.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5446" LastActivityDate="2023-08-24T17:48:55.500" Title="Bad print quality, Temperature Fluctuates about +/- 8 degrees" Tags="|print-quality|pla|temperature|thermistor|monoprice-maker-select-plus|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21352" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21348" CreationDate="2023-08-23T08:38:32.757" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You generated a single mesh surface from a mathematical formula. If you can export this surface, you have the first step to a 3D model!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To turn the mesh into a solid item, you are just a couple steps away:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Import the mesh into blender&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;swap into edit mode&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;[E] to extrude&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;input a value that puts the resulting offset copy well below the item&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;[s] to scale the selected vertices&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;[Z]&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;code&gt;0&lt;/code&gt; to put them all on the sale Z height.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastActivityDate="2023-08-23T08:38:32.757" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21353" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21341" CreationDate="2023-08-23T10:06:20.733" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The model has surfaces that are inverted. This is most notable with how the hole in the grip is turned into a cylinder, or the cutout in the blade being turned into a block.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To fix this, you need to fix the model.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastActivityDate="2023-08-23T10:06:20.733" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21354" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21346" CreationDate="2023-08-23T10:31:33.230" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't see one square with bars, I see two overlapping squares, as illuminated here:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Fd7lD.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Fd7lD.png&quot; alt=&quot;A red and yellow marking on two overlapping squares&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason for them might be manifold, but to me, it seems the most likely cause is bad focussing or a mechanical issue, where between two passes the laser or workpiece were moved by a tiny amount. You also see this offset with the Y you see that there are two lines that are separated by the same distance as the two boxes are shifted to one another.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastActivityDate="2023-08-23T10:31:33.230" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21355" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15441" CreationDate="2023-08-23T13:36:47.563" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's wet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This artifact (I love your name for it, stalagmites, and will have to remember/adopt that!) is always caused by wet filament. You may be able to get it to go away by using excessively long retractions, slowing down or speeding up retraction, speeding up travel moves, reducing temperature, or any number of other hacks, but the root cause is that your filament is wet, and many of these other attempts at mitigating the problem will harm the strength and other quality aspects of your prints.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Dry your filament. If it's PETG, it needs to be dried at 70°C or higher (probably up to 85 or 90 is okay) for at least 6 hours if you don't have active air circulation moving the moisture off. With a good dryer that does circulate air, 3-4 hours probably suffices. After that, it needs to be kept dry, in sealed dryboxes (not plastic bags) with generous amounts of desiccant, or re-dried every time you want to print with it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Being newly opened from the sealed plastic bag the vendor sold it in does not mean it's already dry. It means it's 100% guaranteed to be wet. The tiny desiccant pack that was sealed in the package with it does not mean it's dry. You'd need 10-100x that much desiccant to keep it dry from the time of manufacture until the customer opens it. It just means the vendor is doing what customers expect to make themselves look like a decent-quality brand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2023-08-23T13:36:47.563" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21357" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19907" CreationDate="2023-08-23T16:09:37.150" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just for anyone stumbling across this thread now: as it turns out, the wheels on the x-carriage (print head) were installed at a slight angle and not screwed in as tight as they were supposed to be, which probably led to some inconsistencies in printing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="35329" LastActivityDate="2023-08-23T16:09:37.150" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21358" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21366" CreationDate="2023-08-24T00:18:41.143" Score="0" ViewCount="83" Body="&lt;p&gt;I produced a cube model (XYZ) using a printer to test its capabilities. Could someone offer guidance concerning the issues visible in the image?. &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fw8FW.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fw8FW.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Printer Used : Createbot F430&#xA;Slicer Used: Simplify 3D&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ugTwL.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ugTwL.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Slicer Settings &quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5WIVh.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5WIVh.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36876" LastEditorUserId="36876" LastEditDate="2023-08-24T20:26:22.953" LastActivityDate="2023-08-25T14:23:11.250" Title="Help me diagnose these print problems?" Tags="|3d-models|simplify3d|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21360" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-08-24T14:26:30.890" Score="1" ViewCount="36" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a flat, C-shaped metal piece with a singular hole at the bottom through which a grub screw assures that the heated bed and the glass plate are kept tightly together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looking for clamps, I've not found this one. I can get close through &amp;quot;glass clamp&amp;quot;, but all of them have two screws.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both plates together are about 9 mm in thickness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LKv6L.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Photo of the bed clip/clamp on a 3D printer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LKv6L.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Photo of the bed clip/clamp on a 3D printer&quot; title=&quot;Photo of the bed clip/clamp on a 3D printer&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="39723" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2023-08-24T15:07:17.393" LastActivityDate="2023-08-24T15:07:17.393" Title="What is this type of clamp called?" Tags="|part-identification|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21362" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21360" CreationDate="2023-08-24T15:05:56.953" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;These will commonly go by the term &amp;quot;bed clip&amp;quot;. The problem with doing a search with those terms will not get the result you are looking for. Doing a search with the terms &amp;quot;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/search?q=3d+printer+glass+bed+clip&amp;amp;newwindow=1&amp;amp;sca_esv=559732191&amp;amp;sxsrf=AB5stBgfXjdHra-xglysRj4DG1XT2fLcpg%3A1692889361087&amp;amp;ei=EXHnZPWABeG7qtsPwt2qmAM&amp;amp;oq=3d+bed+clip&amp;amp;gs_lp=Egxnd3Mtd2l6LXNlcnAiCzNkIGJlZCBjbGlwKgIIATIFEAAYgAQyBhAAGAcYHjIGEAAYBxgeMgYQABgIGB4yChAAGAgYHhgPGAoyCBAAGIoFGIYDSOksUKUSWOIXcAF4AZABAJgBdqABsQKqAQMyLjG4AQHIAQD4AQHCAgoQABhHGNYEGLADwgIKEAAYigUYsAMYQ8ICBxAAGA0YgATCAggQABgIGB4YDcICDBAAGAgYHhgNGA8YCuIDBBgAIEGIBgGQBgo&amp;amp;sclient=gws-wiz-serp&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;3D printing bed clip&lt;/a&gt;&amp;quot; will get you what you are looking for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are different types and styles, so you will have to search for the particular one that you want.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23193" LastActivityDate="2023-08-24T15:05:56.953" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21363" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21350" CreationDate="2023-08-24T17:48:55.500" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This looks like a an extruder PID tunning issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In Marlin ( I assume this printer use Marlin) there is a auto-tune command for the temperature PID (M303) you can check this page: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.3dmakerengineering.com/blogs/3d-printing/pid-tuning-marlin-firmware&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.3dmakerengineering.com/blogs/3d-printing/pid-tuning-marlin-firmware&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You mentioned that you changed the sensor you need to be careful and ensure it is exactly the same type as the stock or to know exactly what type of sensor it is and ensure it is adequately set in the marlin settings&#xA;a wrong sensor will give you an offset on the measured value but will not generate fluctuations by itself&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36655" LastActivityDate="2023-08-24T17:48:55.500" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21364" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21378" CreationDate="2023-08-24T17:59:56.193" Score="0" ViewCount="510" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought a Ender 5 S1, 3d printer (without limit switch version), I could be able to asemble it. Every axis works fine, however I cannot make the printing platform move upwards from the GUI.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can make Y axis and X axis move without any problem.But Z axis moves only down, not up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried to fix it by installing the latest firmware 1.0.7, but it didn't worked.What can I do to debug or fix?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="39668" LastActivityDate="2023-08-28T19:09:46.553" Title="Creality Ender 5 S1, I can move z axis downwards but not upwards, Why?" Tags="|z-axis|creality-ender-5|creality|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21366" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21358" CreationDate="2023-08-24T22:45:12.857" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;These artifacts look like oozing during retract or unretract due to an excessively slow retract/unretract speed, but might also be related to misconfigured or lack of pressure advance/linear advance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Based on the settings info you added to the question, I think this is a very plausible explanation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &amp;quot;extra restart distance&amp;quot; setting is probably the primary culprit. This is an &lt;strong&gt;extremely misguided feature&lt;/strong&gt; and, with the configured value, is spewing out enough plastic to fill a whole 1.25 mm worth of linear movement (at typical layer height and line width). All this is ending up in one place as a blob. Turn that off (set it to zero) and the problem will almost surely go away. There is never a legitimate reason to extrude a fixed excess amount of plastic after each unretract, and doing so will cause &lt;strong&gt;catastrophic nozzle collisions&lt;/strong&gt; dependent on your model geometry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Beyond that, 2.0 mm is a very long retract distance for a direct drive, which I believe this machine has, and 15 mm/s is very slow retraction. Those combined make it take at least 1/7 of a second dwelling in place during retract/unretract, which could also ooze material. 0.3-0.8 mm is the usual reasonable range of lengths for direct drive, and 30 mm/s (1800 mm/min) or so a reasonable speed. Play with these, but set it back up closer to where you had it if you get stringing or other problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The coasting setting of 2 mm is really, really dubious too. Coasting is a hack to make up for printers with extremely outdated/bad firmware by underextruding. This doesn't seem to be the &lt;em&gt;cause&lt;/em&gt; of your bulges, but it could be making them more noticeable by contrast between slightly over-extruded (from oozing) and severely underextruded lines juxtaposed. Coasting should always be off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming your printer has it (I would hope so at that price, but sometimes pricy printers are running really old firmware), you should also make sure linear advance is enabled and calibrated. This solves the problem that coasting was trying to solve, but does it in a way that's actually accurate and still extrudes the correct total amount of material, just modulating pressure up and down as it does so that it flows in the right places.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;TL;DR: Set extra restart distance to 0, coasting to off, and maybe speed up and reduce the length for your retractions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastEditorUserId="11157" LastEditDate="2023-08-25T14:23:11.250" LastActivityDate="2023-08-25T14:23:11.250" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21367" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-08-25T05:28:18.617" Score="0" ViewCount="62" Body="&lt;p&gt;I own a Qidi X-Plus 3D printer and have been trying to get it to print properly but to no avail. I've leveled the bed and have been fiddling with the Z-offset yet my prints still fail. Weirdly enough, the 3D prints seem to start off okay, however, after a while, they come out stringy, and then the extruder just stops extruding the filament altogether. I had something like this happen a while back which I sort of solved by adjusting the Z-offset but that doesn't seem to work now. Any ideas on why this happening?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are some failed prints:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Pds6T.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Pds6T.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3wkph.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3wkph.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm using the following print options:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Retraction distance is 1.5 mm;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Retraction speed is 38 mm/s;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Printing temperature is 210 °C&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Building plate temperature is 75 °C (initial building plate temperature is 75 °C);&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Print speed is 60 mm/s; fan speed is at 100 %; and&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the Z-offset is at 0.06 mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="39673" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2023-08-26T22:40:20.853" LastActivityDate="2023-08-26T22:40:20.853" Title="3D Print Failing With Extruder Not Extruding After a While" Tags="|troubleshooting|extruder|bed-leveling|print-failure|qidi-tech-x-plus|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21368" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21369" CreationDate="2023-08-25T13:22:53.297" Score="1" ViewCount="95" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm using an original Prusa MK3S and the PrusaSlicer as my slicing software. &lt;br&gt;&#xA;I want to print this net shape with only one layer and a thickness of 0.3mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OlICi.png&quot; width=&quot;400&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Intuitively, I would expect the slicer to trace the diagonal lines one after the other, e.g., from left to right, and then follow up with the perpendicular ones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But when sliced with the PrusaSlicer, it traces the individual squares of the net in a seemingly random ordering.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vym11.png&quot; width=&quot;200&quot;&gt; &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zq77E.png&quot; width=&quot;200&quot;&gt; &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IneC5.png&quot; width=&quot;200&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm using all the default settings and a layer height of 0.3mm. Any ideas why the slicer does that?&#xA;Printing the squares instead of the lines is probably more prone to breaking when bent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="39667" LastActivityDate="2023-08-25T16:26:25.133" Title="Why does the PrusaSlicer trace random squares instead of the straight lines?" Tags="|prusaslicer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21369" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21368" CreationDate="2023-08-25T16:26:25.133" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your model is not printable the way you &amp;quot;intuitively&amp;quot; think it is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would expect the slicer to trace the diagonal lines one after the other, e.g., from left to right, and then follow up with the perpendicular ones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once one direction of diagonal lines was finished, the other direction could only be drawn by &amp;quot;picking up the pen&amp;quot; over and over to draw each broken-up segment one at a time. Such a strategy has &lt;strong&gt;a lot&lt;/strong&gt; of travel/retraction, and is thereby slow/inefficient and also higher risk for print errors. A pattern that snakes around in a continuous path, avoiding self-crossing as long as it can, is preferable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, the slicer doesn't even have that much high level reasoning at its disposal to choose between &amp;quot;these two options&amp;quot;. It's just solving for a decent best effort at an optimization problem for covering all the perimeters which need to be printed, which is something akin to the &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Travelling_salesman_problem&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;travelling salesman problem&lt;/a&gt; or similar graph theoretic problems which are &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/NP-completeness&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;NP complete&lt;/a&gt; and thereby do not admit any efficient search for an optimal solution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As an aside, you may notice that grid infill doesn't have this &amp;quot;problem&amp;quot;. It prints the way you intuitively expected it to. This is because &lt;strong&gt;the slicer cheats&lt;/strong&gt; and prints all of the crossing points twice. That often works out okay for infill, where it won't be visible, although lots of users, especially when printing at high speeds, run into problems with &amp;quot;self-intersecting infill patterns&amp;quot; where the sudden nozzle occlusion and resulting change in backpressure create broken extrusions and material sticking up past the layer height and colliding with subsequent layers. This kind of problem makes such a strategy a bad idea for the actual outer geometry of your print. But even if it weren't a bad idea, the slicer simply doesn't have a way of knowing &amp;quot;these features are ones the user wants me to print like infill&amp;quot;. It's just solving the general problem of &amp;quot;print the perimeters for these polygonal regions&amp;quot;, and in general, the solution doesn't look like an infill-specific hack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2023-08-25T16:26:25.133" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21370" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-08-25T21:06:55.493" Score="0" ViewCount="54" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm new to 3d printing, printing with Creality Ender-3 S1 Pro. I had printed out some downloaded complicated parts and some simple parts of my own, and I was really impressed with surface finish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now I'm trying to print a lampshade from silk PLA.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mNbE0.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Lampshade design&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mNbE0.png&quot; alt=&quot;Lampshade design&quot; title=&quot;Lampshade design&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First tried to print a sample where the profile of each element is half moon. But with 2 x 2 walls and space in between it would not let light through. But the finish was great! Then tried to make a loft where the profile is a 'moon skin', 0.8 mm. The loft turned out to be of variable thickness, but mostly 2 walls. Perfect thickness but the quality is far from perfect. 0.2mm layer height, 0.4mm line width, 200 deg C.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Gm7fD.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Result #1&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Gm7fD.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Result #1&quot; title=&quot;Result #1&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jxyp6.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Result #2&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jxyp6.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Result #2&quot; title=&quot;Result #2&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ruBn3.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ruBn3.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tried a slice of a lampshade from Thingiverse, and it's opposite from smooth... Any advice very much appreciated. I'm at the bottom of that steep learning curve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's 200 °C, Ziro PLA Silk filament.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, I chose the same sample to print for the second time by mistake. It was exactly same lines that were under-extruded.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="39676" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2023-09-01T22:31:25.880" LastActivityDate="2023-09-01T22:31:25.880" Title="Rough printing surface" Tags="|creality-ender-3|print-quality|extrusion|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21371" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-08-26T23:21:36.840" Score="-1" ViewCount="92" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have just purchased the Creality Ender 3 Printer and tried to print the model that comes with it on the SD card and the print was completed successfully with amazing quality details. So far, so good. After that, I downloaded Cura 3D printing software and installed it on my machine, and then tried to slice a model that I had just made with Fusion 360.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the first try, I chose the standard quality Cura profile and saved it to the printer to print it but the print failed in the way the uploaded video. After playing around with some settings and trying to use some of the profiles that I found online, the same case with each new profile so I came across an idea if there is a way to extract the settings from the G-code file within the printer SD card and use to print the new 3D model.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a way to extract the profile settings from in my case the &lt;code&gt;cat3.5h.gcode&lt;/code&gt; file?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or any other working solution for my problem such as a good cura profile to print with PLA filament&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://streamable.com/p22shx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Video of print failure&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="39686" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2023-08-28T03:33:55.457" LastActivityDate="2023-08-29T06:03:34.783" Title="Ender 3 printing fails with several Cura profiles" Tags="|creality-ender-3|ultimaker-cura|pla|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21372" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21405" CreationDate="2023-08-27T09:55:44.870" Score="-1" ViewCount="130" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I give the print command from Pronterface this how it's printing. The Z value is 10.00, can't solve the issue even after first layer calibration being carried out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qN2P0.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qN2P0.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;print after 1st layer calibration.&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="39691" LastEditorUserId="39691" LastEditDate="2023-09-06T16:12:07.990" LastActivityDate="2023-09-06T17:59:25.477" Title="Z-axis Calibration Fault in Prusa i3 MK3S" Tags="|print-quality|print-failure|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21373" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21371" CreationDate="2023-08-28T01:25:53.423" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;That is not your Cura settings, it's just because your nozzle is too high off the print bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any profile you use will fail unless you correct the nozzle height. Look up instructions for bed levelling on an Ender 3. It's pretty easy to do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31811" LastActivityDate="2023-08-28T01:25:53.423" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21374" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-08-28T11:37:06.953" Score="1" ViewCount="35" Body="&lt;p&gt;I filled up my resin vat yesterday afternoon with Elegoo standard gray resin. I used the dregs of an older bottle nearing the end of it recommended shelf life.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I printed a short print (approximately 1 1/2 hours), removed the print and then left the printer overnight. The resin vat was uncovered, but I had the red plastic top that comes with the printer squarely in place, and a third party black insulated printer cover covering the entire printer down to the feet. No gaps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The printer should have been entirely blacked out except for a period of about 1 hour where it only had the red plastic cover on it when the printer was illuminated with artificial light (Warm white LED light panels).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I came to use my printer again the following morning there was a thick skin of resin on the top of the tank.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a problem that I've never experienced before.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could this be due to the resin's age, or is it likely that someone removed the cover of my printer for some reason (I don't know what reason, it's not really important right now), or is there another possible explanation, such as a contaminate (There are probably over 100 different chemicals or substances in the same area as the printer).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Drops of resin on my silicon mat that I hadn't bothered to clean up were still tacky, despite being exposed all afternoon and all night.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="29097" LastEditorUserId="29097" LastEditDate="2023-08-29T17:01:15.763" LastActivityDate="2023-08-29T17:01:15.763" Title="Unusual issue with skin on a resin vat?" Tags="|resin|elegoo-saturn|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21376" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21371" CreationDate="2023-08-28T17:15:08.447" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As the question is specifically asking for profile settings and not the problem with the Z-offset, this answer addresses the question at hand:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a way to extract the profile settings from in my case the &lt;code&gt;cat3.5h.gcode&lt;/code&gt; file?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No, you cannot get the profile settings from the G-code file.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But, looking at the video, your nozzle is way too far from the bed. It looks as if the bed is too low (loosen the leveling screws) or lower the Z endstop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that slicer settings in Cura do not affect the distance between the bed and the nozzle (this much as shown in the video), unless:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You have installed a plugin allowing you to create an extra offset between the bed and the nozzle, or&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;your model has not been dropped to the heated bed (unlikely, as this requires you to manually turn this off in the settings).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2023-08-29T06:03:34.783" LastActivityDate="2023-08-29T06:03:34.783" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21377" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21115" CreationDate="2023-08-28T18:18:36.530" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I ended up calling the cooler a loss.  I don't know what that resin will do embedded in the fabric of the cooler and I don't really want to drink poison when I am out on the beach or develop some sort of sensitivity from it. Ended up getting a new cooler as a gift so it all evened out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="38975" LastActivityDate="2023-08-28T18:18:36.530" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21378" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21364" CreationDate="2023-08-28T19:09:46.553" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found the problem, My wide CRTOUCH power cable was loose. I am a begginer so I didn't reliazed that loose CRtouch Power cable was the problem&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When CRTouch is loose, you cannot move the Z axis probably because of security issues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="39668" LastActivityDate="2023-08-28T19:09:46.553" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21379" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21348" CreationDate="2023-08-28T20:47:19.487" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't know how &lt;code&gt;surf2stl&lt;/code&gt; works, but in principle, given that you already have a way to make a single gridded surface, all you need to do is do that five more times:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Generate the same grid mesh but with all Z values at 0 (or whatever you want the bottom surface to be) instead of your &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$p_k$&lt;/span&gt; function value.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;For each of the four sides, generate a mesh that is only one row wide, along the Z axis; one edge has &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$Z=0$&lt;/span&gt; and the other edge has &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$Z=p_k$&lt;/span&gt;, thus connecting the bottom to the top.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Make sure that the triangle winding order is correct (surfaces should be “facing outward”).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then put all of these triangles in the same STL file and it will be printable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10321" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2023-08-29T14:08:01.813" LastActivityDate="2023-08-29T14:08:01.813" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21381" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-08-30T21:52:25.983" Score="1" ViewCount="132" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an Anycubic Chiron with a Trigorilla controller board with a chip labeled &lt;strong&gt;ATmega2560 16U TW 355e3f 1833amw&lt;/strong&gt; - However I could not find a link to the board, and there is no more info than &lt;strong&gt;Trigorilla&lt;/strong&gt; on it. The power supply seems to work fine - green LED on, fan on. The middle piece has a red LED labeled &amp;quot;DC&amp;quot; in red.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My problem is that the board seems to not work. I just installed it. You can see all the connections in the photos. The display does not light up. My connected PC does not recognize a USB input either. I have installed the driver of the printer on the official Anycubic website prior to testing. I have not restarted my computer though - but the display should light up anyway, I figured.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aw2jN.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Close up photo of Trigorilla controller board&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aw2jN.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Close up photo of Trigorilla controller board&quot; title=&quot;Close up photo of Trigorilla controller board&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/O3kin.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Close up photo of Trigorilla controller board&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/O3kin.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Close up photo of Trigorilla controller board&quot; title=&quot;Close up photo of Trigorilla controller board&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FH1tL.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Close up photo of Trigorilla controller board&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FH1tL.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Close up photo of Trigorilla controller board&quot; title=&quot;Close up photo of Trigorilla controller board&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XnmpE.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Close up photo of Trigorilla controller board&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XnmpE.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Close up photo of Trigorilla controller board&quot; title=&quot;Close up photo of Trigorilla controller board&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/p8zYM.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Close up photo of Trigorilla controller board&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/p8zYM.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Close up photo of Trigorilla controller board&quot; title=&quot;Close up photo of Trigorilla controller board&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hzeMx.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Close up photo of Trigorilla controller board&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hzeMx.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Close up photo of Trigorilla controller board&quot; title=&quot;Close up photo of Trigorilla controller board&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xuWJW.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Close up photo of Trigorilla controller board&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xuWJW.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Close up photo of Trigorilla controller board&quot; title=&quot;Close up photo of Trigorilla controller board&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="39723" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2023-12-11T04:41:14.943" LastActivityDate="2023-12-11T04:41:14.943" Title="What causes no display and no USB connection on my Anycubic Chiron?" Tags="|usb|anycubic-chiron|mightyboard|display|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21382" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21385" CreationDate="2023-08-31T06:42:58.887" Score="1" ViewCount="319" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I'm having a bit of a strange issue where I'm getting gaps between perimeter walls, but only on part of the print. Even more strangely, it doesn't happen with every print, though it will happen consistently on the same model if I print it more than once.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know the go-to answer for an issue like this is &lt;code&gt;&amp;quot;You're under-extruding. Fix your e-steps or increase your extrusion multiplier&amp;quot;&lt;/code&gt;, however I'm not sure that's the only issue at play here. I did try increasing my extrusion multiplier (tried both 1.05 and 1.10), and while the issue did improve, it didn't fully solve it. The print shown below was printed with an extrusion multiplier of 1.00.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also worth noting is that there is a bulge in the side of the print toward the bottom, but I'm not sure if it's related to the perimeter wall gaps issue. I have no idea what would cause that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Basic Info&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Printer: Ender 3 Pro&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Filament: Hatchbox PLA (&amp;quot;gray blue&amp;quot;)&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Slicer Software: Slic3r&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Slicer Settings&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: I am only adding the settings I believe are relevant to the question. If you would like to see a setting not shown here, please let me know and I'll add it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Print temperature: 200 °C&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bed temperature: 50 °C&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Installed nozzle is 0.6 mm.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WFhg2.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WFhg2.png&quot; alt=&quot;Print speed settings&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yj3xg.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yj3xg.png&quot; alt=&quot;Print layer settings&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TlZSM.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TlZSM.png&quot; alt=&quot;Printer extruder settings&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Print Images&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This first picture is to show the orientation of the print on the print bed:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rNB1C.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rNB1C.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Print orientation&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TBnv5.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TBnv5.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Print closeup&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17270" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2023-09-01T06:02:27.380" LastActivityDate="2023-09-01T06:45:53.757" Title="Gaps between perimeter walls on only part of the print" Tags="|creality-ender-3|print-quality|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21383" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-08-31T18:55:43.790" Score="1" ViewCount="71" Body="&lt;p&gt;I need to know what the name of this controller is in Marlin:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/w2jRA.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/w2jRA.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Surprisingly, I plugged it into AUX-2 on a MKS Gen L V1.0 with mostly default Marlin settings. It powers on and the buttons work. But whatever it is sending to the printerboard, the printerboard does not respond to. Also, it seems to block the connection to the computer when it is connected? SO maybe AUX-2 is the wrong port?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I unscrewed the case and tried to look for any markings on the PCB. There were none. I'm not sure what I should be looking for when I open it up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have bought a couple 3018 CNCs over the years and both have come with this controller, sold by different sellers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lV5c2.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lV5c2.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10369" LastEditorUserId="10369" LastEditDate="2023-08-31T19:08:31.037" LastActivityDate="2023-09-02T19:01:17.687" Title="How to use a 3018 CNC Offline Controller in Marlin?" Tags="|part-identification|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21384" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21382" CreationDate="2023-08-31T23:02:27.707" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had this in 3 new Ender 3 pro's.   It was the nozzle was too small. I checked the output of the nozzles by extruding and measuring the filament after it hardened right at the nozzle.  A good nozzle will measure exactly to the size.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="39730" LastActivityDate="2023-08-31T23:02:27.707" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21385" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21382" CreationDate="2023-09-01T06:45:53.757" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You are using a larger than &amp;quot;standard 0.4 mm&amp;quot; nozzle. Large diameter nozzles cause flow volume to increase when the extruder etrusion speed is kept the same as for the standard nozzle which can cause extruding problems like underextruding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The nozzle diameter increase appears marginal (as in &amp;quot;it is just an extra 0.2 mm in diameter&amp;quot;, but actaully the nozzle increases 50 % in diameter), but has significant effects on the volume flow of the extrusion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As seen from the table below, when increasing the nozzle diameter for the same printing speed, the volume flow increases from 1.26 mm³/s to 4.24 mm³/s which is a 337.5 % increase of the flow for the selected layer height (0.3 mm).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mVxfB.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mVxfB.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This increased flow must be created by your extruder/nozzle assembly and might fall out of the range it can produce for the current setting. Generally this &lt;strong&gt;requires you&lt;/strong&gt; to &lt;strong&gt;increase the printing temperature&lt;/strong&gt; or &lt;strong&gt;decrease the printing speed&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2023-09-01T06:45:53.757" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21386" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-09-01T07:18:26.623" Score="0" ViewCount="22" Body="&lt;p&gt;In all of the guides i've read it says to read this chart and wherever the peak is for your axis you tested that is the number you set for your freq. However, my chart on the X axis the peak is about 17 but the chart says the recommended value is 39. Why?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6Zre3.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6Zre3.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="39732" LastActivityDate="2023-09-01T07:18:26.623" Title="Klipper Input frequency Chart not making sense" Tags="|klipper|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21387" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21389" CreationDate="2023-09-01T15:11:46.800" Score="0" ViewCount="33" Body="&lt;p&gt;Speaking about any printer, in a general sense.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;If I load up the X carriage with two hotends and two stepper motors in a direct-drive-way... Then surely the force applied by the x stepper motor will not translate to the intended distance of the carriage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I am getting to is: How do you ensure changing carriage weight does not change travel distance?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Where would you change something? Do you start at software-level, like there being a variable and an algorithm which you feed the weight to, or do you change the stepper motor, and so on?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="39723" LastActivityDate="2023-09-02T01:32:30.660" Title="How much weight can the x motor support?" Tags="|x-axis|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21388" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-09-01T19:30:25.187" Score="0" ViewCount="56" Body="&lt;p&gt;Every time I try to level my Ender 3 v2 I get all the corners perfect when pulling paper in between. But for some reason, if all the corners are good the middle/center still has a bigger gap like 2-3 paper sheets. The prints do still look “OK” but I do have some sections where the lines won’t melt together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="39738" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2023-09-02T16:12:01.190" LastActivityDate="2023-10-08T23:03:20.397" Title="Can level every where except the center of the bed" Tags="|creality-ender-3|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21389" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21387" CreationDate="2023-09-02T01:32:30.660" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Load does not change the distance a stepper travels unless it misses steps. That's why it's called a stepper and not a normal open-loop motor - it moves in discrete steps that are completed in their entirety or not at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the motor can't move (actually: accelerate) the load you've given it, no amount of software-level stuff will change that. Giving it more current might. But generally, unless you've built an extremely rigid machine for extremely high usable acceleration/speed, these motors have more power than they can use without going way beyond the point where your print quality becomes unacceptable. For example the X motor on a stock Ender 3 can accelerate the stock carriage at nearly 100000 mm/s² if you really want it to (with input shaping; without it, the resonances will give you drastically increased reaction forces that make it skip steps much sooner, maybe at 6000-10000 mm/s²).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A more massive toolhead will be harder to accelerate, but the way you solve this is by using lower acceleration, or putting on a more powerful X motor. However, unless you're also doing serious vibration-reduction modifications to go with the increased mass, you won't even want to have more acceleration. The ringing will be bad.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2023-09-02T01:32:30.660" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21390" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-09-02T07:26:41.793" Score="1" ViewCount="78" Body="&lt;p&gt;Printing on an Ender 3 V2 Neo, using Cura to slice, PETG-filament.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I printed a 3DBenchy and there is a fair bit of stringing and the layers are showing. The roof looks a little bit weird, the printer has printed it in a stairy kind of way. Also there are ripples all over the print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ahKdf.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Image of Benchy with ripples, stringing and layers showing well&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ahKdf.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Image of Benchy with ripples, stringing and layers showing well&quot; title=&quot;Image of Benchy with ripples, stringing and layers showing well&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PAsNp.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;From the back&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PAsNp.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;From the back&quot; title=&quot;From the back&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Gj2hT.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;From the side&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Gj2hT.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;From the side&quot; title=&quot;From the side&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;0.4mm Nozzle&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;PETG Standard Quality 0.2mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Layer Height 0.2mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Line Width 0.4mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wall Thickness 2.0mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wall Line Count 5&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Top/Bottom Thickness 0.8&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Infill Density 20%&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Infill Pattern Cubic&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Print Temp 240 Celsius&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Build Plate Temp 80 Celsius&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Flow 97.0%&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Print Speed 50.0 mm/s&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wall Speed 25.0 mm/s&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Retraction Distance 5.0 mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Retraction Speed 45.0 mm/s&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Retract at Layer Change Off&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Retract Before Outer Wall On&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Avoid Supports When Traveling On&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fan Speed 35.0 %&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am a beginner in 3D printing and haven't spent any time further tuning it than the set-up. Thank you for helping.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="39740" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2023-09-02T11:08:35.127" LastActivityDate="2023-09-02T11:08:35.127" Title="How can I improve my print quality?" Tags="|creality-ender-3|ultimaker-cura|petg|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21391" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21317" CreationDate="2023-09-02T08:28:14.477" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not a fix, but a workaround for anyone else experiencing this issue.  I was able to get past it by changing my upload format from &amp;quot;G-code&amp;quot; to &amp;quot;UFP with Thumbnail&amp;quot; in my Cura Moonraker settings. After this change I have been able to print with no problems and I have not gone back and attempted to transfer straight gcode files. (Because I like the thumbnail previews showing on the Sonic Pad. )&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can get to this screen in Cura by clicking the top menu:&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;Settings&lt;/strong&gt; &amp;gt; &lt;strong&gt;Printer&lt;/strong&gt; &amp;gt; &lt;strong&gt;Manage Printers...&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the &amp;quot;Preferences&amp;quot; dialog click:&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;Printers&lt;/strong&gt; &amp;gt; &lt;strong&gt;Preset Printers&lt;/strong&gt; &amp;gt; Your printer's name &amp;gt; &lt;strong&gt;Connect Moonraker&lt;/strong&gt; &amp;gt; &lt;strong&gt;Upload&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/c57fb.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Screenshot of the 'Connect Moonraker' in the Printers setting in Cura&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/c57fb.png&quot; alt=&quot;Screenshot of the 'Connect Moonraker' in the Printers setting in Cura&quot; title=&quot;Screenshot of the 'Connect Moonraker' in the Printers setting in Cura&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user37619" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2023-10-02T22:39:09.727" LastActivityDate="2023-10-02T22:39:09.727" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21392" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-09-02T15:42:27.353" Score="1" ViewCount="77" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently had the unfortunate experience of someone in my household accidentally breaking the microwave turntable ring. Considering the replacement cost of a new tray ring is upwards of $70, I'm exploring the option of 3D printing a replacement. However, I'm not sure which 3D printing material would be best suited for this task. Here are some key points to consider:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I'm aware that certain 3D printers are limited in terms of filament compatibility, but fortunately, I own a Bambu Lab X1 Carbon that supports a wide range of filament types.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Given the cost of the replacement part, affordability is a factor. I'd prefer a material that comes in at a lower price point than $70.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Durability and heat resistance are crucial factors since the replacement part will be used in a microwave.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With these considerations in mind, could anyone recommend the most suitable 3D printing material for crafting a sturdy and heat-resistant replacement microwave turntable ring using the capabilities of a Bambu Lab X1 Carbon printer? Your insights would be greatly appreciated!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="39749" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2023-09-02T16:10:28.633" LastActivityDate="2023-09-02T16:10:28.633" Title="What is an appropriate filament to 3D print a replacement microwave turntable ring?" Tags="|filament-choice|heat|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21393" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-09-02T17:13:28.063" Score="0" ViewCount="35" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have managed to successfully scan an object with 3DF Zephyr Free, and have exported the mesh to a .obj file (only filetype supported).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once I have inserted the mesh in Fusion 360, how do I set the dimensions of the mesh?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I import the mesh into Bambu Studio, it shows me the bounding box dimensions. So I can scale it accordingly. I can't even get a bounding box to display in Fusion 360.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="39750" LastActivityDate="2023-09-02T17:13:28.063" Title="3DF Zephyr -&gt; Fusion 360 set mesh dimensions" Tags="|fusion360|dimensional-accuracy|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21394" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21250" CreationDate="2023-09-03T14:59:01.887" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, and despite being a waste of material, this is arguably a good strategy. A very tall and thin part like this not only has poor bed contact for adhesion, but may flex under change in direction of motion of the bed (under acceleration), or under drag from the toolhead as it extrudes new material. This is particularly a problem with less-rigid (even moreso with fully flexible, like TPU) material types. Flexing of the existing part of the print while new material is being deposited on top of it can produce dimensional inaccuracy of the final part, as the relative positioning of features is less than perfect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Adding brims or modeled-in bed surface contact features or whatnot will do nothing to solve this problem, but &amp;quot;gratuitous&amp;quot; supports will.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2023-09-03T14:59:01.887" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21395" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-09-03T19:45:52.883" Score="0" ViewCount="48" Body="&lt;p&gt;Recently my uncle-in-law taught me to make a whistle using a scallion stem. You can watch &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SmYjcHH1ChM&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this video&lt;/a&gt; to see the process. Of course, the video shows making a whistle with an onion stem. But a scallion is also a plant and produces the same sound.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since it rots after just hours, I'm wondering to make a plastic whistle with the same thickness and flexibility to produce the same sound (of course, one end is thinner, and the inner layers of scallion should be removed).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which kind of plastic is better for this to be used in 3D printing? Can I also make holes in it to produce a flute?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="39758" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2023-10-24T23:20:12.043" LastActivityDate="2023-10-24T23:20:12.043" Title="Creating a plastic scallion whistle" Tags="|filament-choice|plastic|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21396" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-09-03T20:23:58.453" Score="0" ViewCount="305" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can’t figure out what the issue is. The far side of the bed (Y-axis) print won’t adhere because the extruder is too far off while on the near side is too thin. I have tried all the troubleshooting tips I can find online and nothing worked. Even as a last resort, I tried shimming the far-side bed screws and still have the same results after auto bed leveling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Luoe5.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Another photo of a printed model again with a thin front edge&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vNMb7.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Photo of the first few layers of a printed model but front edge is very thin on the build plate&quot; title=&quot;Photo of the first few layers of a printed model but front edge is very thin on the build plate&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Luoe5.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Another photo of a printed model again with a thin front edge&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Luoe5.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Another photo of a printed model again with a thin front edge&quot; title=&quot;Another photo of a printed model again with a thin front edge&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="39764" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2023-09-04T14:01:49.777" LastActivityDate="2024-01-03T05:04:05.550" Title="Anycubic Kobra Go bed leveling" Tags="|bed-leveling|anycubic-kobra|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21398" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21403" CreationDate="2023-09-05T09:10:05.610" Score="2" ViewCount="50" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just want to print this &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:26345&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;shower curtain ring&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mmAH7.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mmAH7.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For some reason SuperSlicer doens't like the circles and after slicing the model looks like this in preview.&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nSu8x.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nSu8x.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the issue with the slicer? Is there any setting that I might have and ruin the model?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="39375" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2023-09-05T10:59:55.333" LastActivityDate="2023-09-06T12:06:21.113" Title="SuperSlicer model malfunction?" Tags="|3d-models|slicing|superslicer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21400" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21410" CreationDate="2023-09-05T21:32:31.437" Score="0" ViewCount="58" Body="&lt;p&gt;I should mention that this is my experience with Marlin. I can adjust the Z offset all I want in the UI, but not the X/Y offset. If you reinstall the probe, I've heard you may need to adjust the Z offset (makes sense, you might not mount in the exact same way). I assume X/Y offsets get affected as well, so it doesn't make much sense to me that you'd have to rebuild the firmware to adjust those values. Maybe they're less sensitive to change? Anyways, not sure what makes them special enough to exclude from the UI.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My printer seems to work okay using a prebuilt firmware, though it could just as easily be pointlessly leveling 50 mm off of the nozzle for all I know.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="38872" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2023-09-06T08:44:29.730" LastActivityDate="2023-09-09T03:38:45.677" Title="Why is the Z probe offset easily adjustable in the printer UI, but not the X/Y probe offset?" Tags="|z-probe|automatic-bed-leveling|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21402" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-09-06T10:39:17.503" Score="0" ViewCount="381" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to print after letting the printer taking a break for a few months. Haven't touched anything, but it starts with the purge/start line and it looks good. When it tries to print my model the nozzle is 1 mm above the bed. Tried with both pla/petg, different Cura slicer configs (both default and CHEPs) but nothing makes any difference. Have anyone experience this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Picture of the purge/start layer, looks ok:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/y4GY3.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/y4GY3.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is when it starts printing the rest, you can see that the nozzle is a few milimeters above the bed:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mFBpT.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mFBpT.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've tried level the bed (with the bed and nozzle heated) but does not help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First 50 lines of G-code:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;;FLAVOR:Marlin&#xA;;TIME:3655&#xA;;Filament used: 3.24955m&#xA;;Layer height: 0.28&#xA;;MINX:93.425&#xA;;MINY:80.447&#xA;;MINZ:0.28&#xA;;MAXX:141.575&#xA;;MAXY:154.549&#xA;;MAXZ:7&#xA;;Generated with Cura_SteamEngine 5.2.1&#xA;M140 S50&#xA;M105&#xA;M190 S50&#xA;M104 S200&#xA;M105&#xA;M109 S200&#xA;M82 ;absolute extrusion mode&#xA;; Ender 3 Custom Start G-code&#xA;G92 E0 ; Reset Extruder&#xA;G28 ; Home all axes&#xA;G1 Z2.0 F3000 ; Move Z Axis up little to prevent scratching of Heat Bed&#xA;G1 X0.1 Y20 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move to start position&#xA;G1 X0.1 Y200.0 Z0.3 F1500.0 E15 ; Draw the first line&#xA;G1 X0.4 Y200.0 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move to side a little&#xA;G1 X0.4 Y20 Z0.3 F1500.0 E30 ; Draw the second line&#xA;G92 E0 ; Reset Extruder&#xA;G1 Z2.0 F3000 ; Move Z Axis up little to prevent scratching of Heat Bed&#xA;G1 X5 Y20 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move over to prevent blob squish&#xA;G92 E0&#xA;G92 E0&#xA;G1 F2700 E-5&#xA;;LAYER_COUNT:25&#xA;;LAYER:0&#xA;M107&#xA;;MESH:Bodacious Lappi (2).stl&#xA;G0 F6000 X98.561 Y101.407 Z0.28&#xA;;TYPE:WALL-INNER&#xA;G1 F2700 E0&#xA;G1 F1073.8 X98.219 Y101.649 E0.0218&#xA;G1 F926.6 X96.942 Y101.649 E0.0988&#xA;G1 F848.1 X95.665 Y101.65 E0.18294&#xA;G1 F969.7 X95.231 Y101.371 E0.21267&#xA;G1 F1200 X95.065 Y101.043 E0.22979&#xA;G1 X95.065 Y95.95 E0.46694&#xA;G1 X95.231 Y95.534 E0.4878&#xA;G1 F1073.8 X95.596 Y95.255 E0.51171&#xA;G1 F924.9 X96.873 Y95.255 E0.58886&#xA;G1 F846.6 X98.15 Y95.256 E0.67315&#xA;G1 F969.7 X98.557 Y95.495 E0.70034&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="39796" LastEditorUserId="39796" LastEditDate="2023-09-16T14:20:06.097" LastActivityDate="2024-02-06T01:28:21.517" Title="Ender 3 - Prints above bed, but the purge/start line is perfect" Tags="|creality-ender-3|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21403" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21398" CreationDate="2023-09-06T12:06:21.113" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;At the moment I didn't find the exactly what option from config did this but after reimporting the preset everything is back to normal(possible something got corrupted in the preset or the app, I don't know for sure).&#xA;I will still research to see what caused the issue for feature.&#xA;Thanks all&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="39375" LastActivityDate="2023-09-06T12:06:21.113" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21404" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19368" CreationDate="2023-09-06T15:07:25.033" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Could be a bad thermistor, could just need a pid tune. I would start with pid tuning it, if that doesn’t work I would swap it for a new one. Don’t forget to pid tune the new one if you end up going that route.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="39797" LastActivityDate="2023-09-06T15:07:25.033" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21405" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21372" CreationDate="2023-09-06T17:59:25.477" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Reading your question, it seems that the Prusa i3 mk3 (which I also have) is set up for z=0 to be the proper height.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do not use pronterface, so I don't know what special failures it may be causing.  If the Prusa is calibrated for z=0 to be at bed level, and the printer is printing at z=10, and shows z=10 on the UI, then it is likely that it is being programmed for z=10.  The question is, why?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because the printer is calibrated, and is reporting that Z=10 at the point of failure, I do not suspect a mechanical problem with the printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have sliced objects that were not properly touching the bed, which has caused this kind of offset.  Perhaps you could check that the object appears to be flat on the bed before you slice.  I had one case where a very thin spike stuck out of the mesh and lifted the object up (in the virtual slicer space) so that only the spike touched the bed, and since the spike was so small, it generated no extrusions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There may also be calibration functions of pronterface to allow for adjustment to printers that are not properly calibrated.  Since I don't use pronterface, I don't know it, but I would suggest reviewing all the deep and hidden menues for something to tweek.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2082" LastActivityDate="2023-09-06T17:59:25.477" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21406" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-09-06T19:27:36.920" Score="2" ViewCount="435" Body="&lt;p&gt;My first 3D printer, an Ender 3 V2 Neo.  The original issue I was working to address was a clogged nozzle.  The heat-block was caked in melted filament.  At this point, I just chalked it up to a gap forming between the Bowden tube and the nozzle.  I decided it was enough to replace the nozzle and the stock tubing.  However, in my vain attempts to replace the nozzle while it was at room temperature, I had gone to town holding the heat-block in my left hand with pliers, and the nozzle with the included cone wrench with my right.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After learning why it's necessary to risk burning your fingers on a 240 °C nozzle while performing maintenance I was able to replace the nozzle.  However, the problem carried over to nozzle #2.  After inspecting conditions I thought the issue at this point was a gap between the heat-break and the heat-block/nozzle that formed due to my earlier &amp;quot;repairs&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I disassembled everything, removing the heat break from the heat sink, the heat block from the heat break, and cleaned them as best as I could.  (My tom-foolery included removing the heating element from the heat block as I didn't know what a grub-screw was, and then experiencing how exciting it is when the heating element slips out of the heat block)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After putting everything back together again, the display began showing the current nozzle temperature at 236 °C.  As in 236 °C is displayed regardless of whether I just turned the printer on, or if I manually set the temperature to 200 °C.  The nozzle doesn't heat up and it's safe to touch.  If I manually set the nozzle temp to 250 °C and wait, the display will show the nozzle heating up to 250 °C, however, the nozzle's no warmer than a sunny day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While the printer sits idle I do periodically see temperature fluctuations of plus/minus 1 °C.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Being unable to fix the problem by working on the hotend I assumed something happened to the thermistor so I purchased an entirely new (stock) &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B0BXXWBVZ4&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;hotend&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After installing it I flipped the power switch and the nozzle was still at 236 °C.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried to replace the firmware, first by installing 1.1.5.2, I verified it installed through the info screen but there was no change in the temperature reading.  I then installed the factory version, 1.1.4 again to no effect. (&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.creality.com/pages/download-ender-3-v2-neo?spm=..page_1934481.products_display_1.1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Creality's Downloads page&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All that's left is to replace the entire board which feels excessive for such a seemingly tiny issue.  Am I missing something?  I'm not able to find anything on Google that resembles my problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="39437" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2023-09-06T20:32:35.283" LastActivityDate="2023-09-07T15:28:21.143" Title="Nozzle temp always reads 236 °C, even when it's room temp (Ender3 V2 Neo)" Tags="|creality-ender-3|temperature|thermistor|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21407" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21406" CreationDate="2023-09-07T09:28:30.267" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I really suspect a defective or disconnected thermistor. Can you measure the &lt;strong&gt;voltage across&lt;/strong&gt; the thermistor at the connector on the board when turned on? The value should change when you heat the hotend (use a hair dryer).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the value does change, the error is in the firmware / board. If not, recheck your connections for continuity with a multimeter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4708" LastActivityDate="2023-09-07T09:28:30.267" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21408" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21406" CreationDate="2023-09-07T15:28:21.143" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the temperature reading shows increases above 236 when heating, but can't show anything below, you have a short of approximately 300 ohms across the thermistor wires. This could be something wrong on the board or in your wiring to the hotend. You could try diagnosing this by measuring the resistance across the thermistor connector on the board. If you see somewhere around 300 ohms, the problem is on the board and unless you can find and fix the cause, you probably need to replace the board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As an aside, if the board did not kick into thermal runaway protection during the entire time it took to heat from room temperature to over 235, during which no change in the read-back temperature occurred, the firmware has missing or broken thermal runaway protection and is unsafe to operate (severe fire hazard). You should check on this even if you get it working again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2023-09-07T15:28:21.143" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21409" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-09-08T09:38:36.533" Score="1" ViewCount="138" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm writing a Python module that allows new tricks with printing - it already can produce G-code I can put into a file, send to the printer and print out. No problem with generating the correct codes to print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I want to add to it is interactive mode: connect to the printer over serial interface, then control the printer &amp;quot;as you go&amp;quot;, you enter a command, the printer responds. You run a procedure, the printer executes the sequence of G-codes, then the software returns to awaiting further commands. The Marlin website provides a comprehensive reference of all G-codes for me to use. What it lacks though is an intro about the protocol as a whole, especially the busy/wait and error responses, the timing of me sending the next command in sequence.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can someone either explain that part in sufficient detail to allow me to write the code that knows when (and if) to send the next G-code command, and/or refer me to a resource that does just that?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2206" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2023-09-11T18:11:28.510" LastActivityDate="2023-09-11T18:11:28.510" Title="G-code dialog sequence over serial interface" Tags="|g-code|serial-connection|python|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21410" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21400" CreationDate="2023-09-08T21:55:35.263" Score="0" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Usually you install the sensor once and keep it unchanged for years. Nozzle, though, is an element people, depending on printer usage, replace semi-frequently and the Z offset will change with different nozzles, different tightness, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;XY probe offset has very little importance - your bed level changes very little over distances of order of 1 cm, so 1 cm of error in XY probe offset is negligible. Meanwhile, even 0.05 mm Z offset difference impacts first-layer adhesion significantly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On a separate note, you don't need to rebuild the firmware to change the probe offset. You just need an interface (USB cable) and terminal (Pronterface) that allows you to communicate with the printer using G-code. First issue &lt;a href=&quot;https://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M501.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;code&gt;M501&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/a&gt; to load the configuration from EEPROM, then &lt;a href=&quot;https://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M851.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;code&gt;M851&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/a&gt; with the right X, Y values to set the XY offset, then &lt;a href=&quot;https://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M500.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;code&gt;M500&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/a&gt; to save the changes to the config to EEPROM. No firmware update is needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2206" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2023-09-09T03:38:45.677" LastActivityDate="2023-09-09T03:38:45.677" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21411" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21388" CreationDate="2023-09-08T22:12:15.470" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A trick that helps a little is to put some kapton tape on the underside of the bed in areas that are too low - the glass has a little flex and it's possible to remove some warping that way, though 2-3 sheets of paper worth may be too much, plus you compromise heat transfer a bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the tape isn't enough you can either get a new bed plate (either glass or upgrade to magnetic) or - IMO best option - get an ABL probe. It will compensate for the warping and make your life much easier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2206" LastActivityDate="2023-09-08T22:12:15.470" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21412" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-09-10T10:46:06.397" Score="2" ViewCount="970" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to the official Elegoo resin sheet, the standard layer exposure to for clear resin is 8 seconds per layer, while the translucent resin is only 3.5 seconds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For comparison, standard Gray is 2.5.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://drive.google.com/file/d/1_jnyMfNkm4sPJhKyN46ey5CO-ks4MRyR/view&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Official Elegoo data sheet&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both resins produce a similar effect, except one has less tendency towards yellowing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why are their exposure times so dramatically different?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="29097" LastActivityDate="2023-09-12T06:05:23.790" Title="Why are the exposure times for clear and translucent resins so different?" Tags="|resin|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21413" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-09-10T15:20:19.677" Score="1" ViewCount="104" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am looking for some ideas, I am mounting an &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.inno-maker.com/product/cam-mipiov9281/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;OV9281 camera sensor&lt;/a&gt; with an M12 lens in a waterproof box. I have designed a mount with snap-fit joints for the camera to fit too. This works successfully at one particular focus range but when I refocus the lens the height of the camera changes and it doesn’t fit in the box. I was hoping someone might have some ideas for a solution that will allow the camera to move up and down in relation to the lid when the camera is refocused and the box closed. I’ve thought of:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;flexible tabs on the camera mount (I am using nylon currently and it seems there might be issues with creep?)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;steel springs (hard to build into the model but should work)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rubber washers (easy to build into the model but wouldn’t allow a lot of compression)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone have any other ideas?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="39842" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2023-10-10T21:32:18.377" LastActivityDate="2023-11-10T13:28:50.270" Title="Designing compressible camera mount" Tags="|3d-design|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21414" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21413" CreationDate="2023-09-10T19:15:35.803" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Printed planar 3D springs aren't that difficult to design for print and should work sufficiently well in your case - essentially make two frames, one within the other, &amp;quot;suspended on a labyrinth&amp;quot; - a snaking thread of material that provides a lot of flex. Add more loops for more flexibility, or stack a couple such frames to provide more yield.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JkFjT.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JkFjT.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2206" LastActivityDate="2023-09-10T19:15:35.803" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21415" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-09-10T20:54:30.770" Score="1" ViewCount="34" Body="&lt;p&gt;When searching for &amp;quot;how to increase first layer speed&amp;quot; and &amp;quot;how can I get faster first layers&amp;quot;, the only results I get from both Google and DuckDuckGo are articles talking about printer basics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You know the type: &amp;quot;make sure your bed is levelled, make sure your bed is cleaned, print the first layer slower&amp;quot;, the articles aimed at beginners that are trying to get a print to finish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm instead looking to increase the first layer speed, as I have seen several CoreXY machines being able to print the first layer at speeds clearly higher than 30mm/s.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a Sovol SV06 with the SV06+ hotend. So not a CoreXY... Are the faster first layers intrinsic to CoreXY? Or are there steps I can take on my SV06 to have better bed adhesion for faster first layers?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT&#xA;Here's an example of what I'm talking about. A functional print being created on top of a first layer that was placed down so quickly. &lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/UQuhLFF-7w8?start=0&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="39844" LastEditorUserId="39844" LastEditDate="2023-09-10T21:07:09.110" LastActivityDate="2023-09-10T21:07:09.110" Title="What factors go into pushing the first layer speeds of an FDM print?" Tags="|adhesion|fdm|speed|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21416" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21420" CreationDate="2023-09-11T04:42:58.493" Score="1" ViewCount="81" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to operate a 3D printer on a ship. This brings up some issues. I want to estimate how likely it is to get usable results under conditions on a moving vessel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, it is impossible to level the platform and keep it balanced on which I want to install the printer. Any ballasting operation will tilt the plane even when berthed. This, of course, rules out several printing technologies, such as stereolithography, laser sinter printing, etc., which rely on gravity to keep the materials in a fixed position.&#xA;In my opinion, the only technology that is more or less tolerant of slight inclinations of the printer bed is FDM.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, a ship is also moving. Even when berthed, it will respond to waves and wind. I do not intend to use a printer in rough sea listing to 10° or more. However, under rather calm conditions (2 m wave height), we reach +/- 2° list and +/- 1° pitch easily at turn rates of 50 mrad/s. Linear accelerations are +/- 0.1 m/s&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; (X and Y) and +/- 0.4 m/s&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; (Z).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm aware that an FDM printer will be affected by acceleration and position. Position changes will alter the vector of gravity pulling on the printer's mechanics, and acceleration will superimpose another force.&#xA;Of course, an error will be introduced. How big that error is will depend primarily on the stiffness of the mechanics and slackness of bearings and support.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has anybody had experience with a moving coordinate system (most likely on board any vehicle) while printing with an FDM printer?&#xA;What problems do I expect when using a printer with actors in the most common cartesian coordinate system (X, Y, Z) on a ship?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="39793" LastEditorUserId="36802" LastEditDate="2023-12-03T18:03:43.693" LastActivityDate="2023-12-03T18:03:43.693" Title="What problems to expect when operating a 3D printer on a ship?" Tags="|bed-leveling|fdm|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21418" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-09-11T11:04:36.500" Score="0" ViewCount="112" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am printing on a Prusa i3 MK3 with white PETG and I face several issues when it comes to the extruder shaping the bridge and solid infill. For the record, the temperature is set at 230 °C for the first layer and at 240 °C for the others. The speed for the solid infill is at 80 mm/s. I print with an infill of 0 % and for reasons related to my work I don't want to change that and increase it. Is it a temperature issue? It's like the bridge infill doesn't stick to the perimeters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After reading similar issues, I have increased the temperature to 250 °C and I still have the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/midS3.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Photo of a 3D printed model on the build plate showing printing errors&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/midS3.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Photo of a 3D printed model on the build plate showing printing errors&quot; title=&quot;Photo of a 3D printed model on the build plate showing printing errors&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="39843" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2023-09-11T13:53:12.170" LastActivityDate="2024-02-13T11:42:23.957" Title="Issue with PETG adhesion" Tags="|prusa-i3|adhesion|petg|underextrusion|prusaslicer|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21420" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21416" CreationDate="2023-09-11T15:01:52.250" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;While your conceptions of &amp;quot;leveling&amp;quot; might apply to SLA or SLS, they are misconceptions with respect to FDM. &amp;quot;Leveling&amp;quot; the bed in FDM &lt;strong&gt;is not about leveling&lt;/strong&gt; but about squaring it with respect to the rest of the motion system. There is no need for it to be &amp;quot;level&amp;quot; with respect to gravity. FDM printers operate leaning diagonally or hanging sideways off of walls (typical in some print farm configurations with auto ejection), upside down (e.g. the Positron), or in any other configuration you like. There are even printers setup to be carried as backpacks, printing while the wearer is in motion. Being on a ship, with extremely slow changes in orientation from the movement of water and the vessel, is &lt;strong&gt;completely irrelevant to FDM&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want some numbers, the accelerations you cited, 100 mm/s² in X/Y and 400 mm/s² in Z, are at least an order of magnitude below what a decent FDM printer experiences constantly as part of printing. Nowadays, good printers print at 5000-15000 mm/s² nominal acceleration, and experience additional forces from pseudo-instantaneous changes of velocity at the boundaries between linearizes segments comparable to another 2000+ mm/s².&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2023-09-11T15:01:52.250" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21421" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-09-11T21:33:18.127" Score="1" ViewCount="109" Body="&lt;p&gt;I added a cylinder object to my model and changed the object type from normal to &amp;quot;Print as support.&amp;quot;  After slicing, the cylinder appears as support but this support exists in areas where there is no normal model (it's just supporting air).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This article &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.instructables.com/How-to-Add-Manual-Support-in-Cura/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;How to Add Manual Support in Cura&lt;/a&gt; states:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cura offers a selection to &amp;quot;print as support&amp;quot;. That will print the&#xA;whole cube as support. We just want the area under the leg within the&#xA;cube. So choose that setting from the drop down menu.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The article doesn't clearly state what that setting is and Cura 5.4.0 has no drop down menu.  How do I get the support associated with this print-as-support cylinder to be generated for only those areas that are below the normal model?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ARxSB.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ARxSB.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14452" LastActivityDate="2023-09-12T09:06:29.183" Title="Cura 5.4.0 Added &quot;Print as support&quot; Cylinder adds support to regions where there is no model. How to limit support to those areas that need it?" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|support-structures|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21422" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21412" CreationDate="2023-09-12T06:05:23.790" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;In a clear resin, which cures by light not every light particle will hit an optical active region in the resin's molecules. Especially if the layer of the resin to cure is rather thin. For a given layer thickness there's a percentage of light which will be absorbed and a percentage of this percentage will initiate the curing reactions. The more curing reactions started within a period in a given volume the faster the curing process will be finished.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Translucent materials contain particles which scatter incoming light. Of course the designers of a resin will choose particles which scatter that light while absorbing only a minimal share of it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This will prevent the majority of photons from crossing the layer on the shortest path. This again will increase the number of initiated reactions in a given volume of resin for a constant flow of light. Of course this is some sort of tradeoff, as with too much scattering the curing speed will reduce on the distant end of the resin layer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="39793" LastActivityDate="2023-09-12T06:05:23.790" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21423" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21421" CreationDate="2023-09-12T09:06:29.183" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Working with manual supports like the one you added, you are fully manual, no automatic options to adjust them - they are intended to be used in situations where the automation has already failed after all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So - select (click in the work area) the support, and use scale, translate, rotate options to make it the size that does what you want and little-to-no more. Unchecking even scaling will allow you to smoosh it into a thin ellipse which you can place under suspended edges. You can even tilt it to act as a makeshift tree support, just make it taller than needed and sink a part under the plate so the adhesion layer is wide enough. You can also overlap it in significant part with the printed object - Cura will correctly trim around the skin of the object, making sure it's supported and not permanently glued into the support.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2206" LastActivityDate="2023-09-12T09:06:29.183" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21425" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21428" CreationDate="2023-09-12T12:00:40.737" Score="1" ViewCount="50" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am completely new to 3D printing and want to start with SLA printing.&#xA;I found the Anycubic Photon Mono 2 printer, but on the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.anycubic.com/products/photon-mono-x2-sla-3d-printer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;ordering page&lt;/a&gt;, there are options for &amp;quot;Airpure&amp;quot; and &amp;quot;Wash &amp;amp; Cure&amp;quot; machines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do not know what these are, nor if they are needed for SLA printing.&#xA;Can someone explain the function of these items, and if they are needed for SLA?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="903" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2023-09-12T16:27:07.790" LastActivityDate="2023-09-12T21:17:16.310" Title="Equipment for starting with SLA printing" Tags="|sla|uv-printer|anycubic-photon|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21428" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21425" CreationDate="2023-09-12T16:34:33.833" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.anycubic.com/products/anycubic-airpure&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Airpure&lt;/a&gt; is an air filtration device for use &lt;strong&gt;inside&lt;/strong&gt; the SLA printer to scrub the air for fumes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.anycubic.com/collections/wash-cure-machine&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Wash &amp;amp; Cure&lt;/a&gt; machines are to rinse the resin off of the printed model. Since the resin is UV reactant, the &amp;quot;Cure&amp;quot; part of the device is to solidify the model into a solid form. (Note: This is a two-step process)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While these devices are absolutely necessary (you could come up with other solutions) they are readily-made solutions by the same manufacturer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would recommend watching some YouTube videos on SLA or resin printing to understand the use of the Wash &amp;amp; Cure machines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23193" LastActivityDate="2023-09-12T16:34:33.833" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21429" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21425" CreationDate="2023-09-12T21:17:16.310" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Airpure can be replaced with a good fan and duct that sucks fumes out from the printer and vents them outdoors away from any living creatures. Not practical in many situations, but can be much cheaper if your situation allows.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've seen a hobbyist making excellent prints where his &amp;quot;Wash &amp;amp; Cure&amp;quot; were a big jar with a lid, filled with isopropanol (to be shaken vigorously with the print inside) and a UV flashlight (to shine at the print from all directions).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What you really shouldn't skimp on is a good quality rebreather and eye protection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2206" LastActivityDate="2023-09-12T21:17:16.310" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21431" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-09-13T19:48:25.110" Score="0" ViewCount="102" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am trying to send G-codes to my Anycubic Kobra 3D printer running on a Marlin board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have tried several serial communication software (terminal-based) and managed to send &lt;code&gt;G28&lt;/code&gt;, for example, and it works. Using the exact same baud rate and port name, I am using Node SerialPort library and I am successfully connecting to the board. But the problem is that it won't accept my commands, nothing happens.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have been trying to send &lt;code&gt;G28&lt;/code&gt; in ASCII and hex forms. I have also been trying with &lt;code&gt;G28\n&lt;/code&gt; and &lt;code&gt;G28\n\r&lt;/code&gt;.  I monitored the SerialPort with a tool while sending commands via both Cura and serial terminal. I then sent the exact same string with Node SerialPort, but it didn't work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the correct format, any clues? I want to be able to send commands via Node SerialPort since I am doing my own web interface for the 3D Printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="39872" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2023-09-14T03:48:14.063" LastActivityDate="2023-09-14T03:48:14.063" Title="Communicating with a Marlin board via Javascript and Node SerialPort" Tags="|marlin|g-code|serial-connection|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21432" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21436" CreationDate="2023-09-13T23:54:04.470" Score="2" ViewCount="186" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 3D object that I print with 0.6 mm nozzle and white PETG.  At the moment I can't print the layers in another direction since I use 3D printed threads.  The object is a de-seeder bit for the sorrel fruit.  &lt;strong&gt;Some of the teeth break off when using it&lt;/strong&gt; (see red arrow showing the missing tooth that breaks off when used below).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to see how it's used, I have provided an &lt;a href=&quot;https://v.etsystatic.com/video/upload/ac_none,du_15,q_auto:good/sm_len_sorrel_extract_seed_tool_f8g8xk.mp4&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;animation/video&lt;/a&gt; of it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/poJuN.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Photo of various 3D printed models of de-seeders of various heights with an inset photo of sorrel fruit&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/poJuN.png&quot; alt=&quot;Photo of various 3D printed models of de-seeders of various heights with an inset photo of sorrel fruit&quot; title=&quot;Photo of various 3D printed models of de-seeders of various heights with an inset photo of sorrel fruit&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xX66N.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Upclose photo of the 'bit' end of the de-seeder with an arrow showing where a tooth is missing&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xX66N.png&quot; alt=&quot;Upclose photo of the 'bit' end of the de-seeder with an arrow showing where a tooth is missing&quot; title=&quot;Upclose photo of the 'bit' end of the de-seeder with an arrow showing where a tooth is missing&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was wondering if there was a way to increase the strength of the teeth on the bits from breaking.  I was thinking of using some type of nail hardener but was wondering if that would work or if I should try and use something else.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm also willing to try a different 3D material but it needs to be able to withstand summer heat in Florida in a garage which gets to be 97 °F or 36.11 °C and be printed with an E3D Revo 6 nozzle (which is like a hardened steel nozzle).  PLA will just melt/turn rubbery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20878" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2023-09-14T03:42:56.953" LastActivityDate="2023-09-14T13:47:29.550" Title="How to harden / strengthen the teeth of a 3D print" Tags="|print-material|petg|print-strength|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21433" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21432" CreationDate="2023-09-14T03:59:54.970" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think you already know that in this print orientation, the tooth breaks off easily. Maybe you can try to print this thing in two parts? Use a horizontal orientation to print the saw-tooth ( with its complicated structure, using organic support might be good) and later combine with the thread?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other things that I can suggest are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Is it possible to make the saw-tooth base wider and thicker, although it will result in a reduced number of teeth in the circle and also make the centre hollow bore smaller? This will increase the surface area bonding the layers in the tooth, thus giving it more strength.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Try altering the printing temperature and layer height. Generally higher temp and lower layer height result in greater strength. You can check out a great 3D Printing YouTuber CNCkitchen's articles:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.cnckitchen.com/blog/the-influence-of-extrusion-temperature-on-layer-adhesion&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;The Influence of Extrusion Temperature on Layer Adhesion&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.cnckitchen.com/blog/the-influence-of-layer-height-on-the-strength-of-fdm-3d-prints&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;The Influence of Layer Height on the Strength of FDM 3D Prints&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Yeah, using another material such as ABS would give better strength and heat resistivity. But it's also harder to print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="39876" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2023-09-14T04:28:43.033" LastActivityDate="2023-09-14T04:28:43.033" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21434" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20675" CreationDate="2023-09-14T11:40:19.433" Score="2" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Green parts are &amp;quot;off the printbed&amp;quot;&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The term &amp;quot;green&amp;quot; is from the manufacture of ceramics: a piece of ceramic is green when it has not been burned in the oven. In this state, the ceramics - think about &lt;a href=&quot;https://wheelandclay.com/blog/greenware-ceramics/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;clay and porcelain&lt;/a&gt; - can be still somewhat manipulated and are usually much softer and less sturdy than after burning. More precisely, a resin 3D print print right off the bed would be comparable to somewhere between stages one and two for its behavior.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since the UV-light curing station does what the oven does for the ceramics, the term for a &amp;quot;raw&amp;quot; print has been taken from there. So right of the bed it's &amp;quot;green&amp;quot;, and after it was in the UV light it's &amp;quot;cured&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Note the terms!&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tensile strength is the strength in &lt;em&gt;tension&lt;/em&gt; so pulling. It says nothing about the compressive strength. Either you find them in different sections of the MSDS or you might need to run additional tests to get for example compressive strength, or the density of the printed resin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Density increase&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Usually, the density of the printed resin increases as the bonds between molecules tighten the more they cure. As the bonds shorten somewhat and tighter interknitting happens, the print also shrinks somewhat between their green and cured states. This behavior is also where a lot of the stresses that cause buckling and warping come from, leading to the need for reinforcement ribs and minimum thickness of walls to avoid warping.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Look at the two pictures from Adam Savage's Tested. In the first, the decorative ribs warped under stress while curing, in the second, the lack of reinforcement ribs lead to the lower bottom bending upwards (and the side walls out), most noticeable at the 'top' edge of the cutout. They start to address this print failure &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/TuM_1xSQCFw?list=PLJtitKU0CAejiJisqHdCX4O-1-zJzfW36&amp;amp;t=2208&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;about here.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/TuM_1xSQCFw?list=PLJtitKU0CAejiJisqHdCX4O-1-zJzfW36&amp;amp;t=2313&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nLr7G.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;A failed print on the left and a good one right, showing wavy warping that happened in curing from having too thin walls/details&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/TuM_1xSQCFw?list=PLJtitKU0CAejiJisqHdCX4O-1-zJzfW36&amp;amp;t=2278&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/h6qB7.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;A failed print on the left and a good one right, showing buckling of the print from lack of reinforcement ribs&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As formlabs told @megidd in an email, their resin goes from 1.13 to 1.14 [g/cm^3], an increase of about 0.8%, which will induce some stresses in the model, resulting in shifting tensile and compressive parameters between the green and cured state.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Some operations are easier on green prints!&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are operations that are easier on perform on a green print where the plastic itself is softer and less brittle. Among those operations often is the removal of support structures and of the beads where the support structure was attached, and even placing threaded inserts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, the green state is time-limited due to the nature of the beast. Even normal daylight does contain some UV so that longtime exposure will ultimately transfer the model to the fully cured state over time.  In between the fresh print and the fully cured print, the parameters will slowly shift till they (almost) reach those from a UV bath.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2023-09-19T09:50:10.640" LastActivityDate="2023-09-19T09:50:10.640" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21435" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21418" CreationDate="2023-09-14T11:55:01.677" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately I know of no setting like a &amp;quot;bridge infill - inner wall overlap&amp;quot; .&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can however break the top and bottom of the model up into 2 pieces. Use the &amp;quot;per model settings&amp;quot; to increase the thickness (number of walls) of the bottom part. That way the infill has some ledge to hold on to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4708" LastActivityDate="2023-09-14T11:55:01.677" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21436" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21432" CreationDate="2023-09-14T13:47:29.550" Score="2" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Alter geometry&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You experienced one of several factors of print strength:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the layer-layer boundary is always weakest&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, we need to make sure to strengthen that as much as possible. Let's start with the shape as it is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dTbXg.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dTbXg.png&quot; alt=&quot;Teeth geometry&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, how can we increase the strength? Layer-layer strength is linear to area, so can reduce the number of teeth. Next, thicken the walls - two is already more than twice as strong while 4 to 5 is hefty strong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yjM6L.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yjM6L.png&quot; alt=&quot;reduced geometry, thicker walls&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastActivityDate="2023-09-14T13:47:29.550" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21437" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21438" CreationDate="2023-09-14T14:33:06.890" Score="0" ViewCount="112" Body="&lt;p&gt;My Ender 3 v2 with a CR Touch/BLTouch installed is only moving down, but not up!&#xA;The display shows &lt;code&gt;P Endstop&lt;/code&gt; when I try to move below around halfway up the gantry. What's going on, and how do I fix this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19482" LastActivityDate="2023-09-14T14:33:06.890" Title="Ender 3 v2 with CR Touch/BLTouch moving down but not up" Tags="|bltouch|ender3|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21438" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21437" CreationDate="2023-09-14T14:33:06.890" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your CR Touch/BLTouch is not connected properly. Check the cable that runs from the mainboard to the probe on both ends. It may be slightly loose, so make sure to push both ends of the cable all the way in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19482" LastActivityDate="2023-09-14T14:33:06.890" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21439" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20675" CreationDate="2023-09-15T07:36:16.030" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I contacted Formlabs at support@formlabs.com and received answers:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Formlabs Services answer 1&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The green tensile strength is valid only for layers that have finished solidifying during the 3D printing process. So in effect, as the part is being printed, each section that has solidified is in its green state where the green tensile strength applies.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other that that, there is a moment in time for each scanline of a layer while it is being lased/polymerized, where the tensile strength will be something less than that green tensile strength, until the laser moves from that location and that section solidifies.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Formlabs Services answer 2&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We have not tested compressive strength for our materials at the moment, so we would not be able to provide any data on that specifically.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regarding mass density of our standard resins, they will be 1.08, 1.13, and 1.14 [g/cm^3] in their liquid, green, and postcured states respectively.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11091" LastEditorUserId="11091" LastEditDate="2023-09-16T04:20:22.667" LastActivityDate="2023-09-16T04:20:22.667" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21443" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-09-16T04:30:27.807" Score="3" ViewCount="352" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm just learning and have calibrated my new Bambu Lab P1P 3D Printer. I printed the built-in scraper—amazing quality.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I downloaded this &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5424843&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Stiga Ping Pong Table Feet&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And printed this twice to get this result:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/obrM8.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Photo of a 3D printed model with errors&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/obrM8.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Photo of a 3D printed model with errors&quot; title=&quot;Photo of a 3D printed model with errors&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My next print job did the same:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SCksB.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Photo of a 3D printed model after the first few layers where the model did not stick to the build plate&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SCksB.png&quot; alt=&quot;Photo of a 3D printed model after the first few layers where the model did not stick to the build plate&quot; title=&quot;Photo of a 3D printed model after the first few layers where the model did not stick to the build plate&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seemed like the part wasn't staying on the bottom and that was messing everything up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ideas? lessons learned?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="39897" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2023-09-16T13:38:05.337" LastActivityDate="2023-09-16T13:38:05.337" Title="New print job not working out well" Tags="|print-quality|print-failure|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21444" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21443" CreationDate="2023-09-16T11:34:45.830" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most probably this is caused by an adhesion problem. When the first layer doesn't stick well enough, this could be related to wrong bed temperature, incorrect distance between nozzle and bed, incorrect initial layer height and incorrect print temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the print detaches from the bed it will wander over the place creating blobs and spaghetti-like objects as shown in your images.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2023-09-16T11:34:45.830" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21446" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-09-16T18:06:38.973" Score="0" ViewCount="20" Body="&lt;p&gt;Presuming that you are raising your print above the bed using a raft and supports, rather than printing directly on the plate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there such a thing as an optimum distance above the bed to have the first layer of the model being printed, and if so, is this an arbitrary distance determined by the software\support settings that you are using (For example does using Chitubox at its default settings have an optimum height), or by the dimensions of the model, or is this something that you would calculate based on things such as the printer resolution that you are using, and thus would vary between printers even with the same model&amp;gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example - on this random image pulled off of the internet - is there a specific reason why you would want the lowest part of the model to be at that exact height, and would making it slightly higher\lower have any real impact?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hA91d.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hA91d.png&quot; alt=&quot;Example image?&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My main motivation for asking this question is that people will often angle their prints specifically so that they will require fewer vertical layers to print, and thus print faster, so it would be logical to think that they would also print their models as close to the bed as possible for the same reason, yet this doesn't seem to be the case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Logically printing too height would increase the failure rate by having long thin supports, and would increase print times, but printing too low?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="29097" LastActivityDate="2023-09-16T18:06:38.973" Title="Is there such a things as an &quot;Optimum height above the bed&quot; for a Resin printer, and if so, how do you calculate it?" Tags="|resin|support-structures|print-orientation|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21447" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-09-16T23:47:52.067" Score="1" ViewCount="135" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a few bodies and I want to move them together so that the center of it is moved to the origin. I don't think the bodies when selected together have the correct center I'd want as I don't think they are all symmetrical. So I would need to move them based on one of the bodies that are symmetrical.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't really know how to center the models the way I want with the Move tool. I'm used to Blender where doing this can be done in two mouse clicks. I've tried searching and can't find any way to do this in Fusion 360. The Move tool also doesn't let me use absolute positions, so I can't move a body to a specific position if I want to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tJoK4.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Screenshot of 3D models in Fusion 360&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tJoK4.png&quot; alt=&quot;Screenshot of 3D models in Fusion 360&quot; title=&quot;Screenshot of 3D models in Fusion 360&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As can be seen here, I can't get everything to center at the origin, the green line. Near the bottom you can also see the holes aren't lined up and the hole in the middle doesn't line up either, it is too far to the left. I don't know how to line up the center of that model with the center of the other model. I've tried using the &amp;quot;Point to Point&amp;quot; but I can't select the points I would need to do it like the centers of the circles. Even then it still wouldn't be aligned vertically or in the Z-axis.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="39909" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2023-09-17T03:34:41.247" LastActivityDate="2023-09-17T03:34:41.247" Title="How to move body to origin using center of body?" Tags="|3d-design|fusion360|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21448" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21480" CreationDate="2023-09-17T05:55:30.393" Score="1" ViewCount="1027" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm using the new Elegoo Neptune 4 Pro printer. I have the issue with both Cura and PrusaSlicer alike (I'm a Cura user).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The issue is simple, instead of printing a perfect circle, the final print will have a diameter range of around 0.3 mm. For example, if I print a 15 mm diameter cylinder, the longest diameter will be 15 mm but the shortest will be 14.7 mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I measured these with my caliper and I simply turned the cylinder around in the calipers; the cylinder will push up against the calipers as it reaches the thickest part of the cylinder and then come down as it goes to the thinner part.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's not visible to the eye; it looks like a very nice and perfectly round cylinder. But I can feel it with the calipers. The height is dead on 25 mm as designed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I don't get this result from the holes inside that same print. The holes are perfect circles and measure the same diameter roughly no matter what angle I measure them (at least I believe so, measuring the holes can be a bit tougher).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Calipers are accurate and go to two decimal places for mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've tried:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tightening up the belts (&lt;strong&gt;a lot&lt;/strong&gt; - caused the deviation to go from 14.7-15 mm to 14.53-14.8 mm, still roughly a 0.2-0.3 mm difference)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bed leveling&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Vase Mode&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Arc Welder (even though it technically shouldn't do anything)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Axes calibration&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I remeasured and found that the thickest part of every cylinder is not directly on the Y-axis, instead, it's diagonal. The bottom right and top left of the cylinder is the thickest portion while every other angle is roughly the same.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found the same was true for the cube I made. Measuring from the bottom right to the top left resulted in 26 mm, but the bottom left to top right resulted in 25.67 mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Calibrated the the Y-axis (the only one that was off), issue persists. Again, this 0.3 mm deviation exists in the cubes printed as well, and always diagonally. Bottom Right to Top Left is always about 0.3 mm larger than Bottom Left to Top Right. Looked at an old calibration cube I made with my Ender 3V2 previously and the same measurements were only off by about 0.03 mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is very strange, I think I may simply return this printer for a replacement.. I have no idea where to begin investigating this issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I took some measurements. I found that the right and left sides of the printer (which are separate pieces of aluminum) were roughly 0.2-0.3mm in difference from their distance to the aluminum center piece.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, without taking the entire printer apart, I can't say for certain that this measurement even matters, its possible that things aren't attached the way they seem from the outside.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, the measurement perfectly aligns with the error margin on the prints. It also correlates to the X/Y axis misalignment, as the measurement indicates the &lt;s&gt;bed&lt;/s&gt; X-Axis is slightly tiled up on the right side by 0.2-0.3 mm. Had it indicated it was tilted up on the left side, the print errors wouldn't have made sense as the diameter would have increased/decreased on the wrong diagonals.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They agreed to a replacement after I sent pictures of the inconsistent diameter and measurements on the printer itself. I will update on if the issue is gone on the new printer once I have it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="39911" LastEditorUserId="39911" LastEditDate="2023-09-20T20:32:26.133" LastActivityDate="2023-11-05T03:29:38.217" Title="Cylinders have an inconsistent diameter" Tags="|dimensional-accuracy|elegoo-neptune-4-pro|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="13" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21449" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-09-17T15:45:19.460" Score="-1" ViewCount="40" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have had the Ender 3 S1 for a couple of months but in the last couple of days, prints kept messing up so I decided to try to level it again. Everything moves like it is supposed to but then the light starts blinking red and it stops the leveling process. How do I fix this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="39917" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2023-09-17T22:32:29.293" LastActivityDate="2023-09-21T12:57:31.697" Title="Not leveling and not printing correctly" Tags="|creality-ender-3|print-quality|troubleshooting|bed-leveling|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21450" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21454" CreationDate="2023-09-17T22:26:05.243" Score="3" ViewCount="176" Body="&lt;p&gt;In order to save some money on a project, I'm considering using 3 kg spools on my Ender 6.&#xA;However, I never attempted this before, and could not find a firm stance on the web.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;I know that it is possible to build a filament hanger/holder separately, but is it necessary on the Ender 6?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For reference, the spool hanger/holder on my Ender 6 extends &lt;strong&gt;9 cm&lt;/strong&gt; outwards of the printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The filament loaded in the printer (see photo) is a 1 kg white PLA. The dimensions of the filament drawing are for the 3 kg filament to be used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/W91hA.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/W91hA.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Dimension of Filament Spool&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5Oys1.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5Oys1.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Side View of Ender 6, with dimensions, loaded with a 1kg white PLA spool&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KJPSu.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KJPSu.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Internal Volume of the Printer, showing the spool hanger (black)&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AEGP6.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AEGP6.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Close-up of the spool hanger, from inside&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37767" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2023-09-20T09:24:44.677" LastActivityDate="2023-09-21T07:04:21.430" Title="Can I use 3 kg filament spools in an Ender 6 3D printer?" Tags="|filament|creality-ender-6|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21451" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21450" CreationDate="2023-09-18T09:33:34.053" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would absolutely make a more sturdy spool holder that is designed for 3KG filament spools. Spools tend to be filled up to the rim these days, so support your spools as good as you can to ensure straight unwinding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You really don't want to come back to your printer making a terrible grinding noise where the filament has come off the spool sideways or the spool has fallen off the holder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4708" LastActivityDate="2023-09-18T09:33:34.053" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21452" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-09-18T14:13:54.237" Score="0" ViewCount="125" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just discovered a resin from &lt;a href=&quot;https://carima.com/130&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Carima&lt;/a&gt; which says it's non-toxic. They have a link to a technical data sheet, but it leads to a page that requires me to request access, so I haven't read that yet. Has anyone tried this resin, or even heard reports on its quality and ease of use as resin? I really like the non-toxic idea, but it has to work well, too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2023-09-18T14:32:42.117" LastActivityDate="2023-09-18T14:32:42.117" Title="Carima non-toxic resin?" Tags="|resin|toxicity|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21453" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-09-18T16:39:40.497" Score="1" ViewCount="150" Body="&lt;p&gt;I’m wondering if there was a resin that could help me produce this: &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Hdmqv.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Hdmqv.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some old carburetors from the 1960’s had glass bowls.  Well, I’d love one, but to find one on eBay it’d cost more than my engine.  Wondering if there’s a way to print a clear one&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15186" LastActivityDate="2023-09-18T16:39:40.497" Title="Clear, gasoline resistant resin" Tags="|resin|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21454" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21450" CreationDate="2023-09-20T04:10:17.257" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;While editing this question and analyzing the input the community provided, I've concluded that it is not possible to use a 3 kg filament spool directly on the Ender 6.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The actual answer depends on the filament spool dimensions you are going to work with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For one thing, the spool hanger has a length of only 9 cm, while the filament spool has a width of 10.2 cm. I don't think it is a good idea to leave the spool hanging loose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Secondly, the filament spool would hit the filament shortage sensor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37767" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2023-09-21T07:04:21.430" LastActivityDate="2023-09-21T07:04:21.430" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21455" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-09-20T08:07:49.720" Score="0" ViewCount="74" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am trying to compile firmware for an Ender 5 Plus with its stock 8-bit board with ATmega2560. The environment is set correctly and it compiles the hex file as it should when I use PlatformIO:Build (and runs fine when I can actually get it to upload).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to try Marlin AutoBuild to try uploading via their utility. However, as you can see it populated with some random board for a printer that is not hooked up and not specified in platform.ini&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Where are these fields being populated from?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Again, the firmware folder that is loaded currently is for the Ender 5 Plus and I have not had any others loaded recently that used the BTT board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6WQXA.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Screenshot of the Marlin Firmware Auto Build environment in VS Code&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6WQXA.png&quot; alt=&quot;Screenshot of the Marlin Firmware Auto Build environment in VS Code&quot; title=&quot;Screenshot of the Marlin Firmware Auto Build environment in VS Code&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;[platformio]&#xA;src_dir     = Marlin&#xA;boards_dir   = buildroot/share/PlatformIO/boards&#xA;default_envs = E5P_BIL&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;[env:E5P_BIL]&#xA;platform      = atmelavr&#xA;extends       = common_avr8&#xA;board         = megaatmega2560&#xA;build_flags = ${common.build_flags} -DMachineEnder5Plus -DHotendAllMetal - DBedDC&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14623" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2023-09-20T14:11:56.173" LastActivityDate="2023-09-20T14:11:56.173" Title="Auto Build Marlin extension showing random board and environment?" Tags="|marlin|firmware|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21457" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21449" CreationDate="2023-09-21T12:57:31.697" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've read something similar on reddit and according to users it's a known issue fixed about 7 months ago. Try update the FW.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="39949" LastActivityDate="2023-09-21T12:57:31.697" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21458" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-09-21T13:09:39.947" Score="0" ViewCount="41" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've printed a &amp;quot;clamp&amp;quot; in PETG which locks a power switch down (the &amp;quot;On&amp;quot; position). After a few days, the print is not working anymore. So I was wondering if PLA (or any filament) would be able to stay in place without deformations due to stress.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="39949" LastEditorUserId="39949" LastEditDate="2023-09-21T14:22:29.063" LastActivityDate="2023-09-21T14:22:29.063" Title="Is there a filament that exhibits less deformation than PETG (when subjected to stress for a particular application)?" Tags="|pla|petg|filament-choice|print-strength|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21460" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-09-22T14:36:15.587" Score="1" ViewCount="64" Body="&lt;p&gt;With a good amount of failed prints, I now have a bunch of filament that is... trash.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a good way to recycle it, or any services that you send them your lost filament to then melt it back into a new filament?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I kinda hate the amount of trash im producing with 3d printing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="39958" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2023-09-22T15:08:48.043" LastActivityDate="2023-09-22T16:11:06.173" Title="Any good way to recycle filament?" Tags="|pla|filament|recycling|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2023-09-23T18:18:21.890" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21461" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21460" CreationDate="2023-09-22T16:11:06.173" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Many makers will reuse the filament from spaghetti prints as filler material when joining print sections together. Usually by heating it along the seams.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="29097" LastActivityDate="2023-09-22T16:11:06.173" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21463" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-09-22T19:48:38.203" Score="1" ViewCount="511" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I start my print it goes to home the z-axis and then I get the error &amp;quot;extrude below min temp&amp;quot; error (I have an Ender 3 S1 Pro)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="39961" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2023-10-03T15:10:41.580" LastActivityDate="2023-11-02T16:05:05.570" Title="Ender 3 S1 Pro error &quot;extrude below min temp&quot;" Tags="|creality|ender3|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2023-11-06T22:32:35.380" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21464" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15307" CreationDate="2023-09-22T20:34:51.387" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;In your platformio.ini file check the &lt;code&gt;default_envs&lt;/code&gt; variable if it's &lt;code&gt;mega2560&lt;/code&gt; set it to your board type, &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/S0epn4ANJlo?t=187&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; video from ruiraptor explains how to get your board type. It fixed it for my Ender 3.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="39962" LastActivityDate="2023-09-22T20:34:51.387" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21467" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-09-24T11:08:48.887" Score="0" ViewCount="230" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm new to the 3D printing world. I made a mistake in thinking that my auto leveling wasn't working because of the firmware and reset it to the Creality standard one. After changing the firmware, my X and Y axes have been out. The point hangs over the front section of the plate. I've tried changing this but have been unsuccessful. I have watched many YouTube videos and just don't have a clue what to do!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can anyone help me how to retune my build plate so that it's centre and uses the max plate dimensions?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="39968" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2023-09-25T12:41:40.877" LastActivityDate="2023-09-25T12:41:40.877" Title="Ender 3v2 with CR touch, X and Y axes off on the build plate" Tags="|creality-ender-3|calibration|build-plate|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21468" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20075" CreationDate="2023-09-24T18:04:49.100" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You have to search harder next time :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://help.autodesk.com/view/NETF/2023/ENU/?guid=GUID-87CA46ED-E590-45FC-93D2-B72A3EA68554&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://help.autodesk.com/view/NETF/2023/ENU/?guid=GUID-87CA46ED-E590-45FC-93D2-B72A3EA68554&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="39972" LastActivityDate="2023-09-24T18:04:49.100" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21469" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21341" CreationDate="2023-09-25T11:58:24.380" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Bad model, as Trish says. Now onto how to fix it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Install &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.blender.org/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Blender&lt;/a&gt; and open it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XZyib.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Screenshot of the Blender Preferences pane with Add-ons selected&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XZyib.png&quot; alt=&quot;Screenshot of the Blender Preferences pane with Add-ons selected&quot; title=&quot;Screenshot of the Blender Preferences pane with Add-ons selected&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Go to &lt;strong&gt;Edit&lt;/strong&gt; &amp;gt; &lt;strong&gt;Preferences&lt;/strong&gt; &amp;gt; &lt;strong&gt;Add-ons&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Select the &lt;strong&gt;Mesh: 3D Toolbox&lt;/strong&gt; plugin and install it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Restart Blender.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gMBAs.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Screenshot of an import STL with the '3D Print' tab menu open&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gMBAs.png&quot; alt=&quot;Screenshot of an import STL with the '3D Print' tab menu open&quot; title=&quot;Screenshot of an import STL with the '3D Print' tab menu open&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Import your STL (&lt;strong&gt;File&lt;/strong&gt; &amp;gt; &lt;strong&gt;Import&lt;/strong&gt; &amp;gt; &lt;strong&gt;STL&lt;/strong&gt;). Press &lt;kbd&gt;N&lt;/kbd&gt; to bring up the sidebar if not already visible, find the &lt;strong&gt;3D Print&lt;/strong&gt; tab and select it, and open the &lt;strong&gt;Clean Up&lt;/strong&gt; subsection.&#xA;Select your model in the main view (left-click it so it has an orange outline) and click &lt;strong&gt;Make Manifold&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The process may take a while, and Blender will be unresponsive throughout. After it completes, you'll see a message on the bottom: &amp;quot;Modified:&amp;quot; and some numbers of elements fixed. Repeat &lt;strong&gt;Make Manifold&lt;/strong&gt; until &amp;quot;Modified:&amp;quot; shows only zeros.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dXJOl.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Screenshot of the 'Modified:' message at the bottom of the window showing the number of repaired elements&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dXJOl.png&quot; alt=&quot;Screenshot of the 'Modified:' message at the bottom of the window showing the number of repaired elements&quot; title=&quot;Screenshot of the 'Modified:' message at the bottom of the window showing the number of repaired elements&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Make sure the repaired mesh is selected (orange outline). Pick &lt;strong&gt;File&lt;/strong&gt; &amp;gt; &lt;strong&gt;Export&lt;/strong&gt; &amp;gt; &lt;strong&gt;STL&lt;/strong&gt;, and make sure you check &lt;strong&gt;Selection only&lt;/strong&gt; then save the fixed mesh.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/U1TQK.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Screenshot of the File Export dialog box with the 'Selection only' option selected&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/U1TQK.png&quot; alt=&quot;Screenshot of the File Export dialog box with the 'Selection only' option selected&quot; title=&quot;Screenshot of the File Export dialog box with the 'Selection only' option selected&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As of now, this is the easiest, most comprehensive, and most successful auto-repair option for meshes. That's not to say it's extremely successful—if the mesh is a hot mess, it may not help, it may even make things worse. In that case, you're up for a manual repair—you may need to look into more advanced repair tips, like from CG Boost's YouTube video &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DAdYQ4xpNo0&amp;amp;lc=UgyNDx-3-waxKw8RfkR4AaABAg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&amp;quot;How to Solve Common Sculpting Problems in Blender&amp;quot;&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2206" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2023-09-25T14:54:20.493" LastActivityDate="2023-09-25T14:54:20.493" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21470" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21448" CreationDate="2023-09-25T12:09:26.623" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Take a builder/carpenter/machinist square to your machine frame and double check the bed rail (y axis) is perpendicular to the gantry (x axis). The only way I can think of for this sort of distortion is if they aren't actually perpendicular and your prints are skewed diagonally.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2206" LastActivityDate="2023-09-25T12:09:26.623" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21471" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18151" CreationDate="2023-09-25T14:58:23.140" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Noone ever talks about changing the order in which the outer walls are printed. Default settings are usually set to inner/outer, you should try outer/inner to see if that helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="39979" LastActivityDate="2023-09-25T14:58:23.140" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21472" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="746" CreationDate="2023-09-26T06:24:14.073" Score="-3" Body="&lt;p&gt;My pictures are saved in PDF. I have used the &lt;a href=&quot;https://dwg.autodwg.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;AutoDWG&lt;/a&gt; conversion tool before. It's very awesome. You can try their free online conversion service first. You don't need to download and install, you don't need to register, you can directly convert the PDF in your hand into dwg or dxf, which is very convenient. If the conversion result is not ideal, then download and install the offline version of the software, which is more powerful on raster pdf and can obtain more free conversion opportunities.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="39990" LastActivityDate="2023-09-26T06:24:14.073" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21474" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-09-26T19:19:28.240" Score="0" ViewCount="63" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am currently a junior studying mechanical engineering. I have been wanting to start a personal project focusing on 3D printing/printers for a while, yet I have been struggling to develop a course of action.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some topics that I've been thinking of addressing include:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Speed and sound: work to create a printer that is fast, but does not sacrifice low sound levels for higher speeds. I feel as if this is simply a motor optimization problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Experiment with 4 or 5-axis printers: Probably one of the most difficult options, but it sounds like people want the higher-axis/higher degree of freedom printers to be more commercialized.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Large print volume: 'nuff said!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do you all feel about these ideas? Would you suggest other topics or ideas? I am seeking any guidance I can get, as I really want to make an impact.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="39996" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2023-09-26T21:08:00.237" LastActivityDate="2023-09-26T21:08:00.237" Title="College student personal project - developing a 3D printer design, seeking guidance" Tags="|diy-3d-printer|printer-building|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21475" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21474" CreationDate="2023-09-26T20:03:57.137" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most of all, I would ask yourself what you want to get out of this. Is it just engineering experience, or something you'd actually make good use of (moreso than a printer you could just buy), or some combination of the two?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While more-than-3-axis printers are very cool, I would lean against that option unless you really want this to be a &lt;strong&gt;software project&lt;/strong&gt; too. The big reason they haven't taken off isn't that the engineering is hard (although it does have some challenges), but that the slicing software is not there to take advantage of them, so you end up having to either do the gcode &amp;quot;by hand&amp;quot; or hack together a primitive slicer whose output is so much worse than just living with 3-axis but all the modern path generation of mainstream slicers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think I agree with your assessment about low-noise. Also, for high speeds, with most materials you need &lt;strong&gt;heavy&lt;/strong&gt; cooling, which is a lot louder than motion system noise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Large build volume could be interesting, especially if it's something you could use. So many of the large build volume projects I see are not really well-engineered, just scaled up with no consideration for how that affects rigidity/accuracy. Making a large form printer that prints at high quality and decent speed is a fairly hard engineering problem, and one that you might enjoy and learn a lot from.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's also an option to try different kinematic systems, which have a lot of different engineering tradeoffs in:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;BOM (parts) size/cost/complexity&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rigidity&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sensitivity to inaccuracies in build procedure&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Speed and acceleration capabilities&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ease of enclosure&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How motion component sizes scale with desired build volume&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;etc. etc. etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Beyond whatever ideas you might get from folks here on SE, in my experience, some of the best communities for getting ideas and feedback on custom printer designs are the Rolohaun and Annex Engineering Discord servers. The former is more novice hobbyist/DIY geared while the latter is more extreme performance geared, but both are friendly to this kind of activity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2023-09-26T20:03:57.137" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21476" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="746" CreationDate="2023-09-27T09:34:24.443" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I used Corel Draw with good results in professional setting. It's not a breeze - first you clean up the bitmap as well as you can in a bitmap editing program like Photoshop or Gimp - use gradient tool to make the brightness of background roughly even across the entire image, then 'curves' to enhance content and white-out backgrounds, then you import it to Corel and tweak the vectorization settings to produce actual vector borders for the lines (as opposed to tracing edges of individual pixels on one end of the scale, or cutting corners and turning circles into octagons on the other end.) Once you have the image vectorized, you still need to delete all the &amp;quot;floaters&amp;quot; manually - dust specks and so on. The results though can be &amp;quot;good enough for production&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2206" LastActivityDate="2023-09-27T09:34:24.443" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21478" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21481" CreationDate="2023-09-28T13:05:07.923" Score="0" ViewCount="956" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been printing on and off for years. Generally, I have had no issues until recently. Upon thinking back I don't think I used the Z-offset at any point and only manually leveled my Ender 3 S1 Pro.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure if it's material or me, or both.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have to learn this. I bought a new, expensive printer which is ABL only. No knobs, only Z baby-stepping in software. The card reader in my S1 broke so I bought a new board and discovered I needed to do this process again. Since I purchased a Sonic Pad, I changed over to Klipper and printed TPU for 2 weeks fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I bought a spool of Overture PLA, it's been a disaster. Before trying to dial this in last night the spool had been drying at 45 °C for 12 hours. Doesn't seem to print any differently.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Instead of the config steps, after manually leveling and getting the mesh, I made a one-layer print of concentric squares with a solid 1&amp;quot; box in the center. I'm baby stepping trying to find the sweet spot and think I do. I begin printing my model, 5 copies, layer 1: 1 - doesn't stick; 2 - sticks; 3 - sticks; 4 - sticks. I stop and clean the bed with IPA. Copy 1 - sticks; 2 + 3 - doesn't stick. Stop printing, manually level, and find no resistance with paper. Re-level manually only, print, skirt doesn't lay down right.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tried the Creality &amp;quot;BuildTak&amp;quot; bed first, and worse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Printer: Creality Ender 3 S1 Pro - Sonic Pad (Klipper)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Nozzle: 0.5 mm Hardened Steel @ 215 °C&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bed: 60 °C PEI and &amp;quot;BuildTak&amp;quot;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Layer Height/Width: 0.3 mm 0.5 mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Filament: Overture PLA Highlight Yellow&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Speed: 25 mm/s&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What's the process? 1) Manual 2) Probe 3) Mesh? Does the order of 2 and 3 matter?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mesh and manual are easy enough. I won't be at my printer until 7 pm Central be eager to read any advice during the day. I have Googled this also; obviously, I missed something.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NUpIJ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Photo of a series of models on the buildplate with only the second, third and fourth sets printing reliably&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NUpIJ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Photo of a series of models on the buildplate with only the second, third and fourth sets printing reliably&quot; title=&quot;Photo of a series of models on the buildplate with only the second, third and fourth sets printing reliably&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/E466k.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Photo of only the first set in a series of printed models printed reliably&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/E466k.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Photo of only the first set in a series of printed models printed reliably&quot; title=&quot;Photo of only the first set in a series of printed models printed reliably&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="35576" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2023-09-28T13:50:54.413" LastActivityDate="2023-09-30T13:36:05.200" Title="First layer disaster: auto-leveling the bed. Need guidance" Tags="|creality-ender-3|adhesion|automatic-bed-leveling|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21479" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15753" CreationDate="2023-09-28T20:50:12.977" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can use &lt;a href=&quot;https://apps.microsoft.com/store/detail/3d-builder/9WZDNCRFJ3T6&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Microsoft 3D Builder&lt;/a&gt; if you're under windows. It's a surprisingly powerful application that has basic but useful features. From there you can either resize the model to make it smaller or simplify it by lowering the triangle count.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't be fooled by the notion of it being a stock app, it's honestly the app I use the most when editing STLs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's an example of an STL after being simplified alongside the original model:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ok4qE.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ok4qE.png&quot; alt=&quot;3D Builder simplification&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37870" LastActivityDate="2023-09-28T20:50:12.977" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21480" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21448" CreationDate="2023-09-29T21:20:26.023" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's all but confirmed that the printer was defective. I got a new printer and loaded up the sample G-code it comes with, but the bed's belt snapped 10 minutes into the print (it was only finger-tight). This makes two Neptune 4 Pro printers in a row I've received with defects.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can only imagine that their quality control is terrible or I have terrible luck. They're also not replying to my emails for the next week due to a week-long holiday. This is an entire month wasted on defective printers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After some shenanigans, I got a new belt on it. The belt didn't snap as I thought, instead, the metal that was crimped on it failed to hold the belt and it slipped out. This was when I noticed that the Z-axis movement was very noisy. To my surprise, I find that the lead screws were entirely unlubricated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I printed new cylinders/cubes. &lt;s&gt;The measurements are inconclusive, which probably means the machine is fine.&lt;/s&gt; On a 15 mm cylinder I found nearly a 0.2 mm variance, diagonally. This time, the bottom left to the top right (opposite of the last printer). A 30 mm cylinder showed a definite 0.4 mm variance on the same diagonal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried readjusting the X-axis, but nothing changed. I pulled out a cylinder that my old Ender 3v2 printed (25 mm diameter), the variance was &amp;lt;0.1 mm, a perfect circle (ignoring the Z-seam).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This printer has not been worth the time spent on it, let alone the hassle. What a shame. The printer is fast and has beautiful quality prints otherwise. But it's worthless if they can't properly align the axes at the factory.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="39911" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2023-10-01T04:23:27.773" LastActivityDate="2023-10-01T04:23:27.773" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21481" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21478" CreationDate="2023-09-30T12:55:12.227" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not claiming this is the definitive answer but I made a successful print with these changes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There were several things I did that may have helped but I don't think solved the problem. I eliminated the elephant's foot compensation. I brought up the flow ratio to 1.01. Even though I had indicated no cooling on the first layer, I unchecked the box that indicated fan &lt;strong&gt;Always on&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The real solution I believe, increasing the nozzle temperature to 230 °C and bed temperature to 70 °C for the first layer and afterward dialing it back to 210 °C and 60 °C respectively.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've had rolls of PLA for a long time. Perhaps the formulation has changed over time but I didn't have to go through such steps before, nor print so hot on layer one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="35576" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2023-09-30T13:36:05.200" LastActivityDate="2023-09-30T13:36:05.200" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21482" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-10-01T21:25:12.623" Score="1" ViewCount="23" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I converted my Prusa MK2S to use Duet electronics. I have always had problems with bed leveling. It doesn't appear to help much if any.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I can complete a bed probing session but the result is never ever useable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think the problem I have is the bed is tiling in both the X and Y directions. I have gently crashed the Z-axis into the mount that holds the threaded rod and smooth rod. This is to ensure the X axis is parallel and not slopping to one side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have tried to manually level the bed using a metro link ticket. I think I have managed to get it close. However, I am unsure how to resolve the tilt in the Y direction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're standing in front of the printer, it apppears to tilt towards your face. I have verified this using the metro link ticket. It feels closer at the back than towards the front.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the cause of this? How can I rectify this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4408" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2023-10-01T22:34:12.610" LastActivityDate="2023-10-01T22:34:12.610" Title="Prusa I3 MK2s with tilt in the X and Y directions" Tags="|prusa-i3|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21483" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21463" CreationDate="2023-10-03T15:06:43.537" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Please excuse this answer if it is too simplistic or pedantic.  I don't know how much experience you have, and getting started can be very confusing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The error message is because, for some reason, the hot end is not being measured as hot enough to soften the plastic enough for the extruder to push it through the nozzle.  Why can this be?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your printer has a nozzle temperature display, check that it is in the right ballpark, 180 °C or higher.  My printer shows both the commanded and measured temperatures.  I am unfamiliar with your printer.  If the commanded temperature is 0 °C, the G-code may be wrong, ie., it may not have a temperature setting command, or the sensor could be broken.  If the commanded temperature is not displayed, or the actual temperature displays as roughly ambient temperature, the temperature command could be missing, or there could be a problem with the heating system.  If the actual temperature displays as significantly (more than 10 °C) different from ambient, I would look to the sensor for the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Moving to the nozzle, check to see if it is hot when the error is displayed.  At full temperature, you should be able to melt a piece of filament by pressing it against the nozzle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I could explore the failure tree further, but if you check these things the answer may be clear.  If not, please add your observations to this question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2082" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2023-10-03T15:11:28.773" LastActivityDate="2023-10-03T15:11:28.773" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21484" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-10-03T18:43:39.830" Score="1" ViewCount="106" Body="&lt;p&gt;When slicing with Cura, a &amp;quot;flying&amp;quot; support was added. Why would it happen and how to fix it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Top-side view:&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XlqyA.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XlqyA.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bottom-side view:&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XYCJb.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XYCJb.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bottom view:&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UJg5v.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UJg5v.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As expected, the support failed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note, the images are flow maps. Support is colored red. I used lines pattern for support. Both support and inner walls are printer on 60 mm/s, so they are both red. The green you see under the support is a support base. But, for some reason it's disconnected from the support.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="35283" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2023-10-06T09:42:37.793" LastActivityDate="2023-10-06T12:24:52.453" Title="Support on tiny leg" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|support-structures|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21486" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-10-04T10:49:46.627" Score="0" ViewCount="56" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm working on an algorithm that predicts the probability of collapse for 3D models while being 3D printed by SLA technology.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm looking for some 3D model that will collapse while being 3D printed. I wonder if there are any standard ones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Note&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maybe I can rotate the famous &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/STL_(file_format)#/media/File:Utah_teapot_(solid).stl&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;teapot&lt;/a&gt; in way that it will collapse...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11091" LastActivityDate="2023-10-04T10:49:46.627" Title="Problematic 3D models that will collapse while being 3D printed by SLA technology" Tags="|3d-models|support-structures|sla|print-failure|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21488" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12258" CreationDate="2023-10-06T08:02:35.080" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Actually there's a solution, albeit not directly from within openscad.&#xA;I've just found this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/agordon/openscad-step-reader/tree/master&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://github.com/agordon/openscad-step-reader/tree/master&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will need to install or build yourself opencascade, and then it's a matter of running a command line tool to convert a .step to a .scad file.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've just done it to be able to import a Thorlabs designed optomechanical item into scad and it works swell.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;./openscad-step-reader --stl-scad RM1B-Step.step &amp;gt; RM1B-Step.scad&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then open the converted .scad file.&#xA;If you want to try, the item can be seen &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thorlabs.com/thorproduct.cfm?partnumber=RM1B&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;, get the step file from the list of document.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The result in openscad:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zvGP3.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zvGP3.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40096" LastActivityDate="2023-10-06T08:02:35.080" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21489" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-10-06T08:11:10.977" Score="3" ViewCount="162" Body="&lt;p&gt;Using Cura, I'm trying to change the direction of just a section of my print. I want it to print zig zag instead of straight lines. Just the way my part is intended to be used it'd be much better to do it like that. Is this possible?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried using a cutting mesh, and changing the top/bottom line direction, and many other things with the word direction in the name, I also tried rotating the part (not that I thought it would make a difference).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It was requested I add a file to test with. It's not the same model in the picture, but should work just the same for testing purposes. It should be oriented so that there is an overhang.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://drive.google.com/file/d/1VYD8XFabdnMYThQ-8RAK1scLrQ2zaNnI/view?usp=sharing&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Test File&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CHwzE.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CHwzE.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5579" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2023-11-01T07:31:27.137" LastActivityDate="2023-11-01T07:31:27.137" Title="Is it possible to change slicing line direction/type for small geometries?" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|slicing|print-orientation|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21490" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21484" CreationDate="2023-10-06T12:24:52.453" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In one-off cases like this, the best solution is adding a manual support.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Select the part. Select 'support blocker' from the right menu, then click somewhere on the part - a semi-transparent cube will be added.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bjcCD.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bjcCD.png&quot; alt=&quot;created support blocker&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol start=&quot;2&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Translate, Scale and Rotate the cube to the shape of the support: connecting the build plate with the critical point. Make it embed the problem point with a good margin - Cura will isolate it from the actual print body automatically, so don't worry about it merging with it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pIei5.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pIei5.png&quot; alt=&quot;blocker placed at target location&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol start=&quot;3&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Change its type to 'Print as Support' using the 'Per Model Settings'&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Kox1n.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Kox1n.png&quot; alt=&quot;Manual support&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That way you can support anything Cura fails to support automatically.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally, I found using Tree Supports works vastly better than standard supports in great most cases - not just with 'organic' models - they work quite well with 'technical' models where you need to support a large flat area, and tend to succeed in cases where normal supports fail miserably.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2206" LastActivityDate="2023-10-06T12:24:52.453" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21491" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-10-07T23:36:55.807" Score="2" ViewCount="191" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an Elegoo Neptune 4 Pro (love it), and I'm trying to set up a Raspberry Pi with a camera to take a photo every time a layer is complete (to build a time-lapse).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This means I'll have to edit the G-code to move the print head to the X-axis maximum to press a button (shutter release).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm using the web interface and would like to know how to get the X-axis position using G-code commands.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've found &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.klipper3d.org/G-Codes.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Klipper documentation: G-Codes&lt;/a&gt; and have tried to run a few of the commands.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;code&gt;M114&lt;/code&gt; gives the following line:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;code&gt;14:58:56 X:141.000 Y:98.000 Z:11.090 E:0.000&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, when I try to send the print head to that location from somewhere else, I get errors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$ G0 X:141.000 Y:98.000 Z:11.090 E:0.000&#xA;!! Unable to parse move 'G0 X:141.000 Y:98.000 Z:11.090 E:0.000'&#xA;$ G0 [X:141.000] [Y:98.000] [Z:11.090] [E:0.000]&#xA;// Unknown command:&amp;quot;G0 [&amp;quot;&#xA;$ G0 [141.000] [98.000] [11.090] [0.000]&#xA;// Unknown command:&amp;quot;G0 [141.000] [98.000] [11.090] [0.000]&amp;quot;&#xA;$ G0 141.000 98.000 11.090 E:0.000&#xA;// Unknown command:&amp;quot;G0 141.000 98.000 11.090&amp;quot;&#xA;$ G0 X:141.000 Y:98.000 Z:11.090 E:0.000&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All of these tried with &lt;code&gt;G1&lt;/code&gt; as well as &lt;code&gt;G0&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Based on the error messages, it looks like the first line above is the way to go; But I'm not sure where to go from here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="34792" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2023-10-08T03:01:42.077" LastActivityDate="2023-10-10T17:07:44.807" Title="How do I move the head?" Tags="|g-code|klipper|elegoo-neptune-4-pro|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21492" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21491" CreationDate="2023-10-08T04:47:39.097" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It seems that the commands are invalid due to improper syntax. The Klipper Documentation site does seem to be a bit confusing. The main list of G-codes can be found on the &lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/wiki/G-code&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;RepRap wiki&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The site provides the proper usage and examples:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Usage&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;G0 Xnnn Ynnn Znnn Ennn Fnnn Snnn &#xA;G1 Xnnn Ynnn Znnn Ennn Fnnn Snnn&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Examples&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;G0 X12               ; move to 12mm on the X axis  &#xA;G0 F1500             ; Set the feedrate to 1500mm/min  &#xA;G1 X90.6 Y13.8 E22.4 ; Move to 90.6mm on the X axis and 13.8mm on the Y axis while extruding 22.4mm of material&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23193" LastActivityDate="2023-10-08T04:47:39.097" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21493" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19011" CreationDate="2023-10-08T10:05:07.947" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The MKS SBASE 1.3 has a potentiometer to set the current of each of the stepper drivers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't see a physical potentiometer? That's correct! There are electronic potentiometers on the board. If you're using stock firmware: I can't tell you how to change it, but it must be possible. I'm using klipper and it has a section that by default sets the current to 1.0 A.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40110" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2023-10-08T13:37:31.707" LastActivityDate="2023-10-08T13:37:31.707" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21494" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21530" CreationDate="2023-10-09T06:02:58.893" Score="0" ViewCount="57" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think my heat bed thermistor is broken (infinite resistance measured) on my Prusa MK2, so I bought a new one, and I'd like to know which connector I shall use. Where can I find the references of this connector, please ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YnvvJ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YnvvJ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Picture of the connector&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;Regards,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40116" LastEditorUserId="40116" LastEditDate="2023-10-09T18:26:20.053" LastActivityDate="2023-10-19T18:39:24.553" Title="Prusa i3 MK2 thermistor connector reference" Tags="|prusa-i3|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21495" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21494" CreationDate="2023-10-09T17:51:22.270" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The thermistor is just a resistor. Polarity doesn't matter. Connect it wherever the old one was connected. Typically it connects to a pair of male pins on a RAMPS board, so a 2-pin female connector with standard 2.54 mm (0.1&amp;quot;) pin spacing is called for, unless your printer uses a different board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a visual reference, look at the extruder RTD connection on your printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="33030" LastActivityDate="2023-10-09T17:51:22.270" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21496" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20707" CreationDate="2023-10-10T01:30:52.517" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;you need to emboss the image either by raising the image or by increasing the height of the image. once it protrudes it will not disappear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36085" LastActivityDate="2023-10-10T01:30:52.517" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21497" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21491" CreationDate="2023-10-10T08:58:46.927" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The provided link shows the correct syntax, the &amp;quot;:&amp;quot; character is not in the Klipper G-code specification and remember the &amp;quot;[&amp;quot; and &amp;quot;]&amp;quot; characters imply that the parameter is optional and &amp;quot;&amp;lt;&amp;quot; and &amp;quot;&amp;gt;&amp;quot; imply: &amp;quot;insert a value here&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the documentation:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Move (&lt;code&gt;G0&lt;/code&gt; or &lt;code&gt;G1&lt;/code&gt;): &lt;code&gt;G1 [X&amp;lt;pos&amp;gt;] [Y&amp;lt;pos&amp;gt;] [Z&amp;lt;pos&amp;gt;] [E&amp;lt;pos&amp;gt;] [F&amp;lt;speed&amp;gt;]&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A valid command would be:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;code&gt;G0 X141.000 Y98.000 Z11.090 E0.000&lt;/code&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1)&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1)&lt;/sup&gt; &lt;em&gt;Note that this is an example based on the provided G-code in the question, the use of the &lt;code&gt;E0.000&lt;/code&gt; is not recommended, this can retract the filament all the way from the extruder based on the last position of &lt;code&gt;E&lt;/code&gt;. If you want a move to a position, retract first (using a relative positioning of &lt;code&gt;E&lt;/code&gt;), then move (using an absolute positioning of &lt;code&gt;X, Y, Z&lt;/code&gt;), take a picture, move back and re-retract the same value (using a relative positioning of &lt;code&gt;E&lt;/code&gt;).&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2023-10-10T17:07:44.807" LastActivityDate="2023-10-10T17:07:44.807" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21498" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20630" CreationDate="2023-10-10T12:31:36.463" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The best option probably, is to embed everything in the cube seamlessly. It's one of techniques only possible with 3D printing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Prepare the cube normally with pockets where the battery, wires and LEDs are to go, with all the &amp;quot;special&amp;quot; geometry hidden within, nothing poking out through the skin (albeit you will need some way to toggle it or charge the battery... wireless charge, capacitative switch?). Make sure the project has a point (or - less desirably - a couple of them) where at certain height all of the &amp;quot;foreign objects&amp;quot; are below the current height, but all the channels and sockets that hold them are still exposed/accessible from above (as viewed from the print orientation).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then in your slicer use the &amp;quot;Pause at height&amp;quot; option. It's different in different slicers - I'll provide a tutorial for Cura.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Load the STL. Slice and preview. Use the slider on the right to find the layer number which will still expose everything below (with possibly 1-2 layers of margin above, as sometimes the resulting pause point is off by that much). In the example, the layer# is 140. The sockets for LEDs are already closed on top, so the LEDs won't stick above the print level, so this is about the correct height.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OVJHx.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OVJHx.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Project sliced and height in preview adjusted to desired point&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Select Extensions &amp;gt; Post-processing &amp;gt; Modify G-Code.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HBHtk.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HBHtk.png&quot; alt=&quot;Modify G-Code menu option&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Add script &amp;gt; Pause at Height. Change &amp;quot;Pause at&amp;quot; to &amp;quot;Layer number&amp;quot; and enter the layer at which you want the print to stop, so you could load up all the electronics (or first part of it, if you want multiple pauses). Usually this is all that's needed, but if you see options you want to tweak, now's the time. Press Close.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZQV2F.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZQV2F.png&quot; alt=&quot;Modify G-Code UI&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Slice again (this time to produce Gcode with the pause command), and start the print normally.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If everything went well, the printer will stop printing at the specified layer and move the print head out of the way. You can now pack all the electronics in (pay attention not to move the table), possibly hot-glue the wires so that nothing sticks above the print surface so the print head won't snag on it, then either use the printer's screen's dialog (if you used an SD card), or Octoprint's &amp;quot;Resume&amp;quot; button if using Octoprint, or whichever way of resuming the paused print your system provides. The print will resume and your parts will be seamlessly embedded within.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PgWHa.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PgWHa.png&quot; alt=&quot;Octoprint UI&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The process is slightly different with different slicers and printers, but if you google &amp;quot;pause at layer&amp;quot; and &amp;quot;resume paused print&amp;quot; with your slicer and printer, you'll find tutorials for sure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also note: normal PLA at thickness of 2-3 layers is transparent enough bright LEDs will shine with clear diffuse light through, so your LEDs don't need to poke out of the sides. Embed them shallowly enough and your cube will glow there just fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2206" LastActivityDate="2023-10-10T12:31:36.463" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21499" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21503" CreationDate="2023-10-10T17:58:08.657" Score="0" ViewCount="100" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just received a Fusion3 EDGE printer and tried printing ABS with a 0.4 mm extruder at 260 °C and bed at 115 °C (the temperatures set by the demo print).  The bed started heading on the first print, then stopped heating after a few layers and hasn't heated since after repeated tries.  Does anyone know if the fault state is causing this or if a failed heater is causing the fault state?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've been going through the document &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.fusion3design.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/07/EDGE-TROUBLESHOOTING-Heater-Faults-6.26.23.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Fusion3 EGDE-Troubleshooting: Heater Faults&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Reset the heater fault and get the heater is heating too slowly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm waiting for tech support's response before moving this to an answer, but this is the result so far.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I measured the voltages on the SRDD100 relay.  When the bed heater was turned on 24 V was across the input and the output passed 24 V to the heater (relay on).  When the bed heater changed to the fault condition, the input had 0 V and the output did not pass the 24 V to the heater (relay off).  Turning the power off on the 3D printer, unplugging the bed heater, and measuring the resistance of the bed heater showed an open circuit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Mt5dx.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Photo of the interface screen of a Fusion 3 Edge printer showing an error: 'Reset Heater Fault'&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Mt5dx.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Photo of the interface screen of a Fusion 3 Edge printer showing an error: 'Reset Heater Fault'&quot; title=&quot;Photo of the interface screen of a Fusion 3 Edge printer showing an error: 'Reset Heater Fault'&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5kpfH.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Photo of the interface screen of a Fusion 3 Edge printer showing an error: Heter Fault 'Error; M25: Cannot pause print, because no file is being printed!'&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5kpfH.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Photo of the interface screen of a Fusion 3 Edge printer showing an error: Heter Fault 'Error; M25: Cannot pause print, because no file is being printed!'&quot; title=&quot;Photo of the interface screen of a Fusion 3 Edge printer showing an error: Heter Fault 'Error; M25: Cannot pause print, because no file is being printed!'&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Udcpl.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Photo of the interface screen of a Fusion 3 Edge printer showing an error: 'Error; M190: Can't turn heater 0 on while in fault state'&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Udcpl.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Photo of the interface screen of a Fusion 3 Edge printer showing an error: 'Error; M190: Can't turn heater 0 on while in fault state'&quot; title=&quot;Photo of the interface screen of a Fusion 3 Edge printer showing an error: 'Error; M190: Can't turn heater 0 on while in fault state'&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yfieu.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Photo of the interface screen of a Fusion 3 Edge printer showing an error: Bed Heater Fault! 'Error; M140: Can't turn heater 0 on while in fault state'&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yfieu.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Photo of the interface screen of a Fusion 3 Edge printer showing an error: Bed Heater Fault! 'Error; M140: Can't turn heater 0 on while in fault state'&quot; title=&quot;Photo of the interface screen of a Fusion 3 Edge printer showing an error: Bed Heater Fault! 'Error; M140: Can't turn heater 0 on while in fault state'&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wyLGv.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Photo of the interface screen of a Fusion 3 Edge printer showing an error: First Run Error! 'Error; M140: Can't turn heater 0 on while in fault state'&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wyLGv.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Photo of the interface screen of a Fusion 3 Edge printer showing an error: First Run Error! 'Error; M140: Can't turn heater 0 on while in fault state'&quot; title=&quot;Photo of the interface screen of a Fusion 3 Edge printer showing an error: First Run Error! 'Error; M140: Can't turn heater 0 on while in fault state'&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EK6AZ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Photo of the interface screen of a Fusion 3 Edge printer showing an error: 'Error; M190: Can't turn heater 0 on while in fault state'&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EK6AZ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Photo of the interface screen of a Fusion 3 Edge printer showing an error: 'Error; M190: Can't turn heater 0 on while in fault state'&quot; title=&quot;Photo of the interface screen of a Fusion 3 Edge printer showing an error: 'Error; M190: Can't turn heater 0 on while in fault state'&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5DUJk.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Photo of the build plate showing a 3D model being printed&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5DUJk.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Photo of the build plate showing a 3D model being printed&quot; title=&quot;Photo of the build plate showing a 3D model being printed&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CSwZT.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Photo of the build plate where a 3D model has become detached&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CSwZT.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Photo of the build plate where a 3D model has become detached&quot; title=&quot;Photo of the build plate where a 3D model has become detached&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15075" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2023-10-11T14:57:01.050" LastActivityDate="2023-10-24T21:31:43.213" Title="Heater on bed stopped working on Fusion3 EDGE printer" Tags="|heated-bed|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21500" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5204" CreationDate="2023-10-10T18:14:01.683" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I set Slicer-&amp;gt;Configuration-&amp;gt;Filament-&amp;gt;Bed Temperature to 0 and this also removes the G-Code line mentioned in mac's Answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think this bug is particularly annoying because the printer (at least my Velleman Vertex) is stuck in the &amp;quot;Heating Bed&amp;quot;-State and I had to do a power cycle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40132" LastActivityDate="2023-10-10T18:14:01.683" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21501" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-10-11T19:21:51.353" Score="0" ViewCount="118" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm having &amp;quot;Got EOF when reading from device&amp;quot; only while heating the bed. however, if I run PID_calibrate for the heater bed and set the temperature to 50 °C. The PID_calibrate will auto-change to 45 °C and I get no shutdowns.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another point is when the bed temperature is at 20 °C and I manually change it to 40 °C the bed will use 100% power until the bed reaches the temperature around 35 °C and then keeps fluctuating and changing the power from 10% to 40% to 97% to 60%.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Things I have tried that haven't fixed the problem:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Changed the connection cable between the Raspberry Pi and the MCU and changed the cable to power up the Raspberry Pi.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Changed the power supply for the Raspberry Pi.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Removed the camera from the Raspberry Pi.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Changed the board to Raspberry Pi 4 with a stronger power supply, and kept trying different USB sockets to no avail.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I did a clean re-flash and re-install of everything (Klipper and firmware).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Checked the MCU cable that they are connected properly.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Printer: Kobra Max&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Upgrades: R65 to R65 Jumper&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Board: Pi Zero 2 W&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Recently when I was checking the Klippy.log I would see NULL lines in the log.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Klippy.log output:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Starting heater checks for extruder&#xA;Stats 29.2: gcodein=0  mcu: mcu_awake=0.000 mcu_task_avg=0.000000 mcu_task_stddev=0.000000 bytes_write=1997 bytes_read=4261 bytes_retransmit=0 bytes_invalid=0 send_seq=166 receive_seq=166 retransmit_seq=0 srtt=0.002 rttvar=0.000 rto=0.025 ready_bytes=0 upcoming_bytes=0 freq=199993922  heater_bed: target=0 temp=0.0 pwm=0.000 sysload=0.29 cputime=1.048 memavail=3659392 print_time=0.001 buffer_time=0.000 print_stall=0 extruder: target=0 temp=0.0 pwm=0.000&#xA;webhooks client 4131026064: New connection webhooks client 4131026064: Client info {'program': 'Moonraker', 'version': 'v0.8.0-182-g9785387'} webhooks: registering remote method 'shutdown_machine' for connection id: 4131026064 webhooks: registering remote method 'reboot_machine' for connection id: 4131026064 webhooks: registering remote method 'pause_job_queue' for connection id: 4131026064 webhooks: registering remote method 'start_job_queue' for connection id: 4131026064 &#xA;Stats 30.2: gcodein=0  mcu: mcu_awake=0.000 mcu_task_avg=0.000000 mcu_task_stddev=0.000000 bytes_write=2003 bytes_read=4307 bytes_retransmit=0 bytes_invalid=0 send_seq=167 receive_seq=167 retransmit_seq=0 srtt=0.003 rttvar=0.000 rto=0.025 ready_bytes=0 upcoming_bytes=0 freq=199992990  heater_bed: target=0 temp=33.2 pwm=0.000 sysload=0.27 cputime=1.061 memavail=3659792 print_time=0.001 buffer_time=0.000 print_stall=0 extruder: target=0 temp=24.6 pwm=0.000 &#xA;Stats 31.2: gcodein=0  mcu: mcu_awake=0.003 mcu_task_avg=0.000010 mcu_task_stddev=0.000019 bytes_write=2009 bytes_read=4443 bytes_retransmit=0 bytes_invalid=0 send_seq=168 receive_seq=168 retransmit_seq=0 srtt=0.003 rttvar=0.000 rto=0.025 ready_bytes=0 upcoming_bytes=0 freq=199992513  heater_bed: target=0 temp=33.2 pwm=0.000 sysload=0.27 cputime=1.078 memavail=3659672 print_time=0.001 buffer_time=0.000 print_stall=0 extruder: target=0 temp=24.6 pwm=0.000 &#xA;Stats 32.2: gcodein=0  mcu: mcu_awake=0.003 mcu_task_avg=0.000010 mcu_task_stddev=0.000019 bytes_write=2015 bytes_read=4564 bytes_retransmit=0 bytes_invalid=0 send_seq=169 receive_seq=169 retransmit_seq=0 srtt=0.003 rttvar=0.000 rto=0.025 ready_bytes=0 upcoming_bytes=0 freq=199994131  heater_bed: target=0 temp=33.2 pwm=0.000 sysload=0.27 cputime=1.095 memavail=3659672 print_time=0.001 buffer_time=0.000 print_stall=0 extruder: target=0 temp=24.6 pwm=0.000 &#xA;Stats 33.2: gcodein=0  mcu: mcu_awake=0.003 mcu_task_avg=0.000010 mcu_task_stddev=0.000019 bytes_write=2021 bytes_read=4670 bytes_retransmit=0 bytes_invalid=0 send_seq=170 receive_seq=170 retransmit_seq=0 srtt=0.003 rttvar=0.000 rto=0.025 ready_bytes=0 upcoming_bytes=0 freq=199993743  heater_bed: target=0 temp=33.2 pwm=0.000 sysload=0.27 cputime=1.105 memavail=3659076 print_time=0.001 buffer_time=0.000 print_stall=0 extruder: target=0 temp=24.6 pwm=0.000 &#xA;Stats 34.2: gcodein=0  mcu: mcu_awake=0.003 mcu_task_avg=0.000010 mcu_task_stddev=0.000019 bytes_write=2027 bytes_read=4783 bytes_retransmit=0 bytes_invalid=0 send_seq=171 receive_seq=171 retransmit_seq=0 srtt=0.003 rttvar=0.000 rto=0.025 ready_bytes=0 upcoming_bytes=0 freq=199993249  heater_bed: target=0 temp=33.2 pwm=0.000 sysload=0.27 cputime=1.113 memavail=3655044 print_time=0.001 buffer_time=0.000 print_stall=0 extruder: target=0 temp=24.6 pwm=0.000 &#xA;Stats 35.2: gcodein=0  mcu: mcu_awake=0.003 mcu_task_avg=0.000010 mcu_task_stddev=0.000019 bytes_write=2033 bytes_read=4901 bytes_retransmit=0 bytes_invalid=0 send_seq=172 receive_seq=172 retransmit_seq=0 srtt=0.003 rttvar=0.000 rto=0.025 ready_bytes=0 upcoming_bytes=0 freq=199993184  heater_bed: target=0 temp=33.2 pwm=0.000 sysload=0.25 cputime=1.122 memavail=3653168 print_time=0.001 buffer_time=0.000 print_stall=0 extruder: target=0 temp=24.6 pwm=0.000 &#xA;Stats 36.2: gcodein=0  mcu: mcu_awake=0.000 mcu_task_avg=0.000005 mcu_task_stddev=0.000004 bytes_write=2039 bytes_read=5020 bytes_retransmit=0 bytes_invalid=0 send_seq=173 receive_seq=173 retransmit_seq=0 srtt=0.003 rttvar=0.000 rto=0.025 ready_bytes=0 upcoming_bytes=0 freq=199993078  heater_bed: target=0 temp=33.2 pwm=0.000 sysload=0.25 cputime=1.128 memavail=3653168 print_time=0.001 buffer_time=0.000 print_stall=0 extruder: target=0 temp=24.6 pwm=0.000 &#xA;Stats 37.2: gcodein=0  mcu: mcu_awake=0.000 mcu_task_avg=0.000005 mcu_task_stddev=0.000004 bytes_write=2045 bytes_read=5141 bytes_retransmit=0 bytes_invalid=0 send_seq=174 receive_seq=174 retransmit_seq=0 srtt=0.003 rttvar=0.000 rto=0.025 ready_bytes=0 upcoming_bytes=0 freq=199992990  heater_bed: target=0 temp=33.1 pwm=0.000 sysload=0.25 cputime=1.135 memavail=3653168 print_time=0.001 buffer_time=0.000 print_stall=0 extruder: target=0 temp=24.6 pwm=0.000 &#xA;Stats 38.2: gcodein=0  mcu: mcu_awake=0.000 mcu_task_avg=0.000005 mcu_task_stddev=0.000004 bytes_write=2051 bytes_read=5262 bytes_retransmit=0 bytes_invalid=0 send_seq=175 receive_seq=175 retransmit_seq=0 srtt=0.003 rttvar=0.000 rto=0.025 ready_bytes=0 upcoming_bytes=0 freq=199992945  heater_bed: target=0 temp=33.2 pwm=0.000 sysload=0.25 cputime=1.147 memavail=3652468 print_time=0.001 buffer_time=0.000 print_stall=0 extruder: target=0 temp=24.6 pwm=0.000&#xA;Heater heater_bed approaching new target of 40.000 &#xA;Stats 39.2: gcodein=0  mcu: mcu_awake=0.000 mcu_task_avg=0.000005 mcu_task_stddev=0.000004 bytes_write=2073 bytes_read=5373 bytes_retransmit=0 bytes_invalid=0 send_seq=177 receive_seq=177 retransmit_seq=0 srtt=0.003 rttvar=0.000 rto=0.025 ready_bytes=0 upcoming_bytes=0 freq=199993184  heater_bed: target=40 temp=33.1 pwm=1.000 sysload=0.25 cputime=1.167 memavail=3652468 print_time=47.779 buffer_time=0.000 print_stall=0 extruder: target=0 temp=24.7 pwm=0.000 &#xA;Stats 40.2: gcodein=0  mcu: mcu_awake=0.000 mcu_task_avg=0.000005 mcu_task_stddev=0.000004 bytes_write=2095 bytes_read=5499 bytes_retransmit=0 bytes_invalid=0 send_seq=179 receive_seq=179 retransmit_seq=0 srtt=0.003 rttvar=0.000 rto=0.025 ready_bytes=0 upcoming_bytes=0 freq=199993465  heater_bed: target=40 temp=33.1 pwm=1.000 sysload=0.31 cputime=1.182 memavail=3649696 print_time=47.779 buffer_time=0.000 print_stall=0 extruder: target=0 temp=24.6 pwm=0.000 &#xA;Stats 41.2: gcodein=0  mcu: mcu_awake=0.000 mcu_task_avg=0.000005 mcu_task_stddev=0.000004 bytes_write=2101 bytes_read=5633 bytes_retransmit=0 bytes_invalid=0 send_seq=180 receive_seq=180 retransmit_seq=0 srtt=0.003 rttvar=0.000 rto=0.025 ready_bytes=0 upcoming_bytes=0 freq=199993376  heater_bed: target=40 temp=33.2 pwm=1.000 sysload=0.31 cputime=1.191 memavail=3652476 print_time=47.779 buffer_time=0.000 print_stall=0 extruder: target=0 temp=24.5 pwm=0.000 &#xA;Stats 42.2: gcodein=0  mcu: mcu_awake=0.000 mcu_task_avg=0.000005 mcu_task_stddev=0.000004 bytes_write=2107 bytes_read=5739 bytes_retransmit=0 bytes_invalid=0 send_seq=181 receive_seq=181 retransmit_seq=0 srtt=0.003 rttvar=0.000 rto=0.025 ready_bytes=0 upcoming_bytes=0 freq=199993289  heater_bed: target=40 temp=33.2 pwm=1.000 sysload=0.31 cputime=1.197 memavail=3652476 print_time=47.779 buffer_time=0.000 print_stall=0 extruder: target=0 temp=24.6 pwm=0.000 &#xA;Stats 43.2: gcodein=0  mcu: mcu_awake=0.000 mcu_task_avg=0.000005 mcu_task_stddev=0.000004 bytes_write=2129 bytes_read=5865 bytes_retransmit=0 bytes_invalid=0 send_seq=183 receive_seq=183 retransmit_seq=0 srtt=0.003 rttvar=0.000 rto=0.025 ready_bytes=0 upcoming_bytes=0 freq=199993252  heater_bed: target=40 temp=33.3 pwm=1.000 sysload=0.31 cputime=1.204 memavail=3652476 print_time=47.779 buffer_time=0.000 print_stall=0 extruder: target=0 temp=24.6 pwm=0.000 &#xA;Stats 44.2: gcodein=0  mcu: mcu_awake=0.000 mcu_task_avg=0.000005 mcu_task_stddev=0.000004 bytes_write=2135 bytes_read=5986 bytes_retransmit=0 bytes_invalid=0 send_seq=184 receive_seq=184 retransmit_seq=0 srtt=0.003 rttvar=0.000 rto=0.025 ready_bytes=0 upcoming_bytes=0 freq=199993197  heater_bed: target=40 temp=33.4 pwm=1.000 sysload=0.31 cputime=1.211 memavail=3652476 print_time=47.779 buffer_time=0.000 print_stall=0 extruder: target=0 temp=24.6 pwm=0.000 &#xA;Stats 45.2: gcodein=0  mcu: mcu_awake=0.000 mcu_task_avg=0.000005 mcu_task_stddev=0.000004 bytes_write=2141 bytes_read=6092 bytes_retransmit=0 bytes_invalid=0 send_seq=185 receive_seq=185 retransmit_seq=0 srtt=0.003 rttvar=0.000 rto=0.025 ready_bytes=0 upcoming_bytes=0 freq=199993219  heater_bed: target=40 temp=33.4 pwm=1.000 sysload=0.28 cputime=1.220 memavail=3652480 print_time=47.779 buffer_time=0.000 print_stall=0 extruder: target=0 temp=24.6 pwm=0.000 &#xA;Stats 46.2: gcodein=0  mcu: mcu_awake=0.000 mcu_task_avg=0.000005 mcu_task_stddev=0.000004 bytes_write=2179 bytes_read=6236 bytes_retransmit=0 bytes_invalid=0 send_seq=188 receive_seq=188 retransmit_seq=0 srtt=0.003 rttvar=0.000 rto=0.025 ready_bytes=0 upcoming_bytes=0 freq=199993307  heater_bed: target=40 temp=33.6 pwm=0.846 sysload=0.28 cputime=1.236 memavail=3649572 print_time=47.779 buffer_time=0.000 print_stall=0 extruder: target=0 temp=24.7 pwm=0.000 &#xA;Stats 47.2: gcodein=0  mcu: mcu_awake=0.000 mcu_task_avg=0.000005 mcu_task_stddev=0.000004 bytes_write=2233 bytes_read=6372 bytes_retransmit=0 bytes_invalid=0 send_seq=192 receive_seq=192 retransmit_seq=0 srtt=0.003 rttvar=0.000 rto=0.025 ready_bytes=0 upcoming_bytes=0 freq=199993302  heater_bed: target=40 temp=33.5 pwm=1.000 sysload=0.28 cputime=1.246 memavail=3652492 print_time=47.779 buffer_time=0.000 print_stall=0 extruder: target=0 temp=24.6 pwm=0.000 &#xA;Stats 48.2: gcodein=0  mcu: mcu_awake=0.000 mcu_task_avg=0.000005 mcu_task_stddev=0.000004 bytes_write=2282 bytes_read=6488 bytes_retransmit=0 bytes_invalid=0 send_seq=195 receive_seq=195 retransmit_seq=0 srtt=0.003 rttvar=0.000 rto=0.025 ready_bytes=0 upcoming_bytes=0 freq=199993262  heater_bed: target=40 temp=33.7 pwm=0.784 sysload=0.28 cputime=1.253 memavail=3652492 print_time=47.779 buffer_time=0.000 print_stall=0 extruder: target=0 temp=24.6 pwm=0.000&#xA;b'Got EOF when reading from device' &#xA;Stats 49.2: gcodein=0  mcu: mcu_awake=0.000 mcu_task_avg=0.000005 mcu_task_stddev=0.000004 bytes_write=2320 bytes_read=6574 bytes_retransmit=0 bytes_invalid=0 send_seq=198 receive_seq=198 retransmit_seq=0 srtt=0.003 rttvar=0.000 rto=0.025 ready_bytes=0 upcoming_bytes=0 freq=199993201  heater_bed: target=40 temp=33.8 pwm=0.875 sysload=0.28 cputime=1.261 memavail=3652492 print_time=47.779 buffer_time=0.000 print_stall=0 extruder: target=0 temp=24.6 pwm=0.000 &#xA;Stats 50.2: gcodein=0  mcu: mcu_awake=0.000 mcu_task_avg=0.000005 mcu_task_stddev=0.000004 bytes_write=2320 bytes_read=6574 bytes_retransmit=0 bytes_invalid=0 send_seq=198 receive_seq=198 retransmit_seq=0 srtt=0.003 rttvar=0.000 rto=0.025 ready_bytes=0 upcoming_bytes=1 freq=199993201  heater_bed: target=40 temp=33.8 pwm=0.875 sysload=0.26 cputime=1.266 memavail=3652492 print_time=47.779 buffer_time=0.000 print_stall=0 extruder: target=0 temp=24.6 pwm=0.000 &#xA;Stats 51.2: gcodein=0  mcu: mcu_awake=0.000 mcu_task_avg=0.000005 mcu_task_stddev=0.000004 bytes_write=2320 bytes_read=6574 bytes_retransmit=0 bytes_invalid=0 send_seq=198 receive_seq=198 retransmit_seq=0 srtt=0.003 rttvar=0.000 rto=0.025 ready_bytes=0 upcoming_bytes=2 freq=199993201  heater_bed: target=40 temp=33.8 pwm=0.875 sysload=0.26 cputime=1.273 memavail=3652492 print_time=47.779 buffer_time=0.000 print_stall=0 extruder: target=0 temp=24.6 pwm=0.000 &#xA;Stats 52.2: gcodein=0  mcu: mcu_awake=0.000 mcu_task_avg=0.000005 mcu_task_stddev=0.000004 bytes_write=2320 bytes_read=6574 bytes_retransmit=0 bytes_invalid=0 send_seq=198 receive_seq=198 retransmit_seq=0 srtt=0.003 rttvar=0.000 rto=0.025 ready_bytes=0 upcoming_bytes=3 freq=199993201  heater_bed: target=40 temp=33.8 pwm=0.875 sysload=0.26 cputime=1.283 memavail=3651152 print_time=47.779 buffer_time=0.000 print_stall=0 extruder: target=0 temp=24.6 pwm=0.000 &#xA;Stats 53.2: gcodein=0  mcu: mcu_awake=0.000 mcu_task_avg=0.000005 mcu_task_stddev=0.000004 bytes_write=2320 bytes_read=6574 bytes_retransmit=0 bytes_invalid=0 send_seq=198 receive_seq=198 retransmit_seq=0 srtt=0.003 rttvar=0.000 rto=0.025 ready_bytes=0 upcoming_bytes=4 freq=199993201  heater_bed: target=40 temp=33.8 pwm=0.875 sysload=0.26 cputime=1.290 memavail=3653008 print_time=47.779 buffer_time=0.000 print_stall=0 extruder: target=0 temp=24.6 pwm=0.000&#xA;�������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40145" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2023-10-11T21:14:16.133" LastActivityDate="2023-10-11T21:14:16.133" Title="Got EOF when reading from device only when heating the bed" Tags="|klipper|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21502" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-10-11T22:26:31.457" Score="1" ViewCount="68" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm using the &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/classicrocker883/MRiscoCProUI/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;MRiscoCProUI&lt;/a&gt; firmware on my Aquila X3 printer, but when I enable more features in the firmware, I'm unable to flash the printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I already tried several options and independently of the ones chosen, when the firmware gets to around 230 kB, I'm unable to flash it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The printer has a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.nationstech.com/en/N32G455MCUs/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;N32G455RE&lt;/a&gt; chip which has a 512 kB ROM, so I should be able to flash it, right?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas on what can be causing this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT&lt;/strong&gt;: Apparently this is due to the bootloader not being able to handle firmware above 228KB.&#xA;Does this make any sense?&#xA;Is there any way that I can ensure the problem is really this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40146" LastEditorUserId="36802" LastEditDate="2023-11-22T16:13:02.877" LastActivityDate="2023-11-22T16:13:02.877" Title="Aquila X3 small firmware does not flash to board" Tags="|marlin|firmware|mriscoc|aquila-x3|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21503" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21499" CreationDate="2023-10-12T12:33:00.817" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I measured the voltages on the SRDD100 relay. When the bed heater was turned on 24 V was across the input and the output passed 24 V to the heater (relay on). When the bed heater changed to the fault condition, the input had 0 V and the output did not pass the 24 V to the heater (relay off). Turning the power off on the 3D printer, unplugging the bed heater, and measuring the resistance of the bed heater showed an open circuit. &lt;strong&gt;The OEM also concluded that the bed heating element failed and is shipping a replacement&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;OEM comment:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;every machine that is built runs through at least 12 hours of printing high temperature materials before it is allowed to ship. Having it basically show up not functioning is. . really weird.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My response:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This looks like it was on the tail of infant mortality for the heater exceeding the burnin time or a burnin escape.  It only lasted a few minutes into a print with bed at 110C.   Otherwise, it would be a defect caused in the process between burnin and arriving here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The packaging showed no sign of mishandling and nothing on the unit showed signs of mishandling.  There was no sign of damage to the heater.  &lt;strong&gt;The lack of response to this question here supports that this is a rare incident.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The OEM has also requested the return of the failing heater element for analysis (shipping container included with replacement part).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Received new bed from OEM, installed bed, and printed successfully. First print after installing bed:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ieQDz.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ieQDz.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Below is normally a difficult print to not have strings between the stringers, but the Fusion3 Edge printed with no strings on the first attempt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/e3Sp5.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/e3Sp5.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;When looking at SRDD100 application notes, I wondered why the 3D printer designer switched the positive supply voltage instead of the ground as in the application notes. But, thinking about this, the heater is attached to the grounded aluminum bed. If the designer switched the ground instead of the positive supply, a short to the bed could cause thermal runaway. Thus, the designer had safety in mind.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15075" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2023-10-24T21:31:43.213" LastActivityDate="2023-10-24T21:31:43.213" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21504" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-10-12T12:43:35.160" Score="0" ViewCount="630" Body="&lt;p&gt;I purchased an Ender 3 v2 Neo a few days ago, but every time I try to do the bed leveling it is either too close and the nozzle touches the bed (even though it was fine while leveling) or just completely misses it and travels a few mm above it.&#xA;I tried really thin paper, regular A4 but every time I start a test print (the one that prints a little circle on the corners and in the middle) it's just the worst possible outcome every time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tried following multiple YouTube videos step by step but none seem to help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I made sure that the nozzle wasn't too close to the bed, but no.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not sure if it's a problem but I also had to use the offset feature to get close enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What should I do/change?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40150" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2023-10-12T14:08:48.657" LastActivityDate="2023-10-12T14:08:48.657" Title="Creality Ender 3 v2 Neo bed leveling doesn't seem to work" Tags="|creality-ender-3|bed-leveling|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21506" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-10-12T18:52:02.487" Score="1" ViewCount="109" Body="&lt;p&gt;We have an old Ender-3, and the board is numbered 1.1.2. We're trying to update the firmware, but there isn't a USB port (the previous owner seems to have desoldered the USB port?!) so we're figuring out how to do it by the ISP pins and/or SD card. Using the ISP pins on the board and an Arduino, we've successfully blanked it and put a bootloader on, but we have no idea how to put the OS (Marlin) on now. We can only find versions of Marlin as far back as 1.1.4 as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Apparently you can't upload the OS via SD on 8-bit printers, which the 1.1.2 is. Is there a way to do it using the ISP pins or over the SD or something? I'd rather not have to solder a surface-mount USB port to damaged pads on the motherboard without proper surface-mount facilities...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We also have 4.2.2s which I've uploaded OSs to without issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40080" LastActivityDate="2023-10-12T18:52:02.487" Title="How to upload firmware to 8-bit Ender-3 1.1.2 without USB port" Tags="|marlin|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21507" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-10-12T21:37:19.710" Score="-1" ViewCount="610" Body="&lt;p&gt;After building my Ender 3 printer, installing the CR touch auto bed leveling kit, and the Ender-3 Marlin2.0.6 CR-Touch or BLTouch firmware for it. I turned it on and tried to auto home but it just made a little noise and then displayed &amp;quot;Homing failed printer halted please restart&amp;quot;. So I tested the end stops with a multimeter and they all seemed fine. I did some research and found the CR touch firmware could be the problem and installed some newer firmware (Ender-3Marlin2.0.6HW4.2.2GD) and nothing has changed. What should I do?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40159" LastEditorUserId="40159" LastEditDate="2023-10-17T01:01:14.097" LastActivityDate="2023-10-26T18:44:03.563" Title="Ender 3 printer won't auto home" Tags="|firmware|creality|ender3|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2023-11-02T15:22:38.297" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21509" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-10-13T17:04:18.563" Score="0" ViewCount="18" Body="&lt;p&gt;My MK2s has developed a strange problem where the X-axis will bind up whilst printing. This causes it to layer shift. The strange thing is I can move the X-axis manually. It doesn't bind up and feels smooth. But halfway into a print, I heard the X-axis make a scrapping sound that's distinctive to it struggling to move.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bearings are still the original bearings but have had very little use. Maybe 30 hours of printing if that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have already taken the X-axis apart and cleaned it with some bike cleaner( didn't have enough alcohol to form a bath. Before I cleaned it, it wasn't moving smoothly along the rails. Now it does move smoothly on the rails but did bind up mid-print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have checked the X-axis belt, it doesn't seem to be too loose or tight. I tighten the screws that adjust the belt tension by hand so I doubt it's too tight. It makes the distinctive sound of a guitar string when you run your finger across the belt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am thoroughly confused. Could it be a bad bearing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4408" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2023-10-13T17:47:25.657" LastActivityDate="2023-10-13T17:47:25.657" Title="3D printer X-axis sometimes binds up whilst printing" Tags="|prusa-i3|x-axis|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21510" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-10-13T19:43:30.160" Score="1" ViewCount="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a PDF of a 3d model that when I view the document properties in chrome I see it was generated with Solidworks PDF publisher (see attached picture). I could go through the work of manually rebuilding the model, but I don't want to if I don't have to, also I don't know how to use 3d modelling software very well, so there's probably a pretty big learning curve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it likely that the pdf contains the metadata necessary to be imported back into a 3d modelling program of any kind? If so, which program and where would I start with that?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GHPet.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GHPet.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1724" LastActivityDate="2023-10-13T19:43:30.160" Title="Is it possible to easily convert a PDF generated from Solidworks back to a 3d model?" Tags="|software|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21511" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-10-13T23:12:52.847" Score="0" ViewCount="40" Body="&lt;p&gt;So let’s say I have the G-code file for 3D printing a cube, and I have a density function F(x,y,z). How would I change, in G-code, the density at each specific point in the cube, so it has the general distribution of the function?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I’m thinking of just changing the extrusion rate proportional to the density, but I would like something more accurate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40170" LastEditorUserId="40170" LastEditDate="2023-10-14T15:26:44.983" LastActivityDate="2023-10-14T15:26:44.983" Title="How to approximately change the density at a specific point in G-code" Tags="|print-quality|g-code|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21512" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21616" CreationDate="2023-10-14T06:17:01.367" Score="-1" ViewCount="339" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm getting frequent layer shifts, always in the Y-axis.  It's happening on more than one model, at least four to date, and on multiple attempts at the same models.  Some of the models are mine (Tinkercad), some from Thingiverse.  I can't think of any model that has not failed recently except some very small, simple ones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The printer is a RepRapGuru I3 clone, from a kit, purchased, built, and put in service in Summer 2018.  I've been using it almost daily since.  It's gone through at least 50*1 kg spools of filament in that time so has seen a lot of use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The printer has a single direct drive extruder, not Bowden.  The frame is acrylic/plexiglass.  The frame is solid, with no loose fasteners and no cracks that I can detect.  There's no &amp;quot;soft foot&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If a model fails, it fails consistently on every attempt to print it.  The layer shifts occur often, but not always, at exactly the same point in the print job.  In those cases where I've witnessed the shift, there seems to always be a very rapid &amp;quot;jitterbug&amp;quot; motion going on, as in inter-wall infill or while laying down a long narrow section of the model or while building overhang.  It happens sometimes, but not exclusively, on the first continuous layer of a &amp;quot;ceiling&amp;quot; above infill and often at or near a corner of the model. I don't believe I've seen it happen on the bottom few layers where the model has a solid &amp;quot;floor&amp;quot; nor during &amp;quot;steady steaming&amp;quot; printing of a large surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The magnitude of the shift varies but is typically roughly 5 mm, give or take. One, however, was about 30 mm. When it happens the sound suggests to me that the motor is slipping poles, not that the belt is slipping on the pulley, but that's only an impression. [NOTE: It's just occurred to me that I can put match marks on the belt and pulley.  After a layer shift, if they're still aligned, I can pretty much rule out belt slippage. There's only a 1 in 20 chance they'd still be aligned after a shift.  Will do that tonight.]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The failures I've seen do not occur at the beginning of a layer, i.e. during perimeter printing; they occur somewhere in the middle details of a layer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The layer shifts began a few months ago.  Prior to that, the machine had no chronic problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I few months ago (note the coincidence with the above paragraph) I rebuilt the printer with all new guide rods, linear bearings, belts, and pulleys, in stages over several weeks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Before and after those updates, the Y carriage moved/moves smoothly and freely through its entire range with no tight spots.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Later still, I replaced the original quarter-inch acrylic Y carriage plate with a 3 mm thick (220 X 220 mm) aluminum one, with four linear bearings (new ones again) in new aluminum pillow blocks vice the original three bearings in split plastic pillow blocks on the original. I replaced the original heated bed with a new one that has, unlike the original, a 3 mm aluminum backing plate.  The very wimpy original heat bed springs were replaced with new, stiffer ones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Y layer shifts started sometime shortly before or during the first series of updates.  I'm certain the problem predates the heat bed and Y carriage replacement, but I've included that info above to communicate the current state of the machine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm unsure whether this issue began before, during, or after the guide rod, bearing, belt, and pulley replacement, which were done in phases over several weeks.  I can't definitely tie the issue to any particular phase of those upgrades.  The layer shifts definitely began before the heat bed and Y carriage plate replacements.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Y belt tension is pretty normal, certainly not loose enough to cause it to jump teeth yet not overly tight.  Tension is similar to that of the X belt, but that has a shorter span so maybe apples and oranges.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Speeds slow/fast Settings:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Print: 40/60 mm/s&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Travel: 65/80 mm/s&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;First Layer: 30/30 mm/s&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Outer Perimeter: 40/40 mm/s&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Inner Perimeter: 40/40 mm/s&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Infill: 40/40 mm/s&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Skin Infill: 40/49 mm/s&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only changes to these speeds have been to reduce some of them since the layer shift problems began.  None were particularly high to begin with except Travel/High was 150 mm/s vice the current 80 mm/s. Reducing them had no effect on the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I typically run with retraction (2.5 mm; 40 mm/s) and Z-hop (0.5 mm) turned on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Marlin firmware on the 2560 main board has never been updated or modified in any way.  I don't know the version but it's whatever RepRapGuru shipped with their kits in mid-2018.  The shield board is RAMPS; I'm almost sure I remember &amp;quot;Version 1.4&amp;quot; on the box it came in within the kit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've never attempted to modify acceleration or jerk settings.  They're as they've always been.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I use Repetier V2.3.2 software.  I use the embedded &amp;quot;Cura Engine&amp;quot;, which I believe is really an older Cura Steam Engine slicer, not the current Cura slicer.  I have not tried other slicers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The machine is controlled directly from a PC using the Repetier software and the embedded CuraEngine slicer; there is no SD card slot, digital display, or rotary encoder control.  Gcode comes directly from the Repetier software on the PC to the printer via the USB connection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Things I've tried:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I've used the &amp;quot;Cut off Bottom&amp;quot; feature of the slicer to print test versions of some of the problem models at partial height, beginning a few layers before the common failure points.  The failures still occur mostly at the same point in the model, indicating height above the bed is not the determining factor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Where I can identify a common failure point in a model, I've examined the G-code in the vicinity of the failure point of a couple of models and can't see anything anomalous.  I should point out I'm not a G-code expert.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I sent the G-code output from my slicer for an object that is consistently failing with layer shifts, to a friend.  He printed it on his machine without problems (different machine, but still Marlin/RAMPS).  This seemed to absolve the slicer/G-code as the culprit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I swapped the X and Y stepper motors.  The layer shifts continued, still always in the Y-axis.  Motor shafts were straight and undamaged, motor mounting screws were tight as found, bearings seemed OK, and pulley set screws were tight.  This seemed to absolve the Y stepper motor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I swapped the Y stepper driver board with the unused E1 stepper board. The layer shifts continued, still always in the Y-axis.  This seemed to absolve the stepper driver. (The motor and driver swaps were performed independently, with a failed test after each.  Motors and driver boards are the originals.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I rechecked the stepper current limit settings on the driver boards and all were found OK.  The largest discrepancy from the target setting (0.50 V) was 0.03 V.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I had installed &amp;quot;smoothers&amp;quot;, i.e. Schottky diode boards, between the drivers and stepper motors on X and Y a few years ago and never had problems but also didn't note any improvement from them at the time.  I removed them during these problems without affecting the layer shift issue.  They remain out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I put an 80 mm muffin fan on the bench, directed toward the stepper drivers. It had no effect on the layer shifts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;After match marking the Y motor pulley and belt, I ran another test print.  I killed the print after a series of Y layer shifts totaling approximately 8 mm in the +Y direction.  The belt/pulley match marks were still aligned.  This indicates pole slip.&#xA;The slips I observed were occurring where the printer was beginning to build a small section of overhang, where a brief but rapid series of short moves were made.  There was a definite, dull clunk each time the motor slipped.&#xA;I was monitoring the 2560 Vcc at the time and saw nothing unusual.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="33030" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2023-10-15T03:44:35.157" LastActivityDate="2023-11-10T19:35:18.873" Title="Need help identifying cause of frequent Y layer shifts" Tags="|layer-shifting|layer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21513" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-10-14T23:05:15.097" Score="0" ViewCount="110" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want a cable management tray for my height-adjustable desk.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I came up with the following design: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.tinkercad.com/things/aUADCcVNotf?sharecode=Jyw1OSVmBfHwjXB1S7eIqacKr6VmH6MCha-vOcEbDW4&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;CableManagementLarge&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It appears to fit nicely in CAD but when printed the parts don't fit nicely. You can use force but it distorts the part. I have already snapped 2 of them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any advice will be greatly appreciated.&#xA;It would have been easier to buy a tray. However, that would have robbed me of the chance to learn more about designing for 3D printing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is an image to show how it distorts the hanger part:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/v7bXh.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Photo of a 3D printed cable management model that is bent and distorted&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/v7bXh.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Photo of a 3D printed cable management model that is bent and distorted&quot; title=&quot;Photo of a 3D printed cable management model that is bent and distorted&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you can see in the image, the hanger part is bent. I have checked the calibration of the printer, it seems fine on both the X and Y-axis. It's 0.2 mm out on the Z-axis.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4408" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2023-10-15T00:50:24.063" LastActivityDate="2023-10-17T16:45:43.287" Title="How to design for parts that slot into each other" Tags="|3d-models|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21514" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-10-15T05:19:20.890" Score="1" ViewCount="45" Body="&lt;p&gt;I need a frame to hold a copper busbar in place.  The busbar is rated up to 200 amps and can be wrapped in an insulator, so the frame will sit around the insulator of the busbar, but I don't know how hot it gets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would like to 3D print a frame to hold the busbar in place, what is the most suitable filament for this application?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40178" LastActivityDate="2023-10-18T11:32:59.307" Title="What is a good filament for a frame for holding high amp copper busbar?" Tags="|filament|electronics|filament-choice|filament-quality|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21515" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21516" CreationDate="2023-10-15T15:41:49.893" Score="1" ViewCount="55" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm printing a model, sliced in Cura, on a Monoprice Mini Delta v2.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The model is long, about the width of the print bed. When I print it, the extruder drags the filament (which should stay in place) into the wrong position.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To summarize, my white PLA won't stick to the print bed (which is heated to 40 °C). Is the bed temp too low? Is the nozzle too high (200 °C)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If someone could tell me how to get the PLA to stick- preferably a long-term option like print or bed temp - it would be greatly appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40179" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2023-10-15T22:29:58.223" LastActivityDate="2023-10-16T03:23:35.117" Title="How can I get PLA to stick to my printer bed?" Tags="|pla|monoprice-mini-delta|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21516" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21515" CreationDate="2023-10-16T03:23:35.117" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would go with 60 degrees on the bed and check the bed levelling. You shouldn't be having a problem with PLA if the levelling is fine unless your filament has gone bad.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31811" LastActivityDate="2023-10-16T03:23:35.117" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21517" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21513" CreationDate="2023-10-16T07:38:00.470" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can try reducing the size of the part that goes in by 0.5mm and see how it goes. Also I agree with above comment you might want to tune in your printer to to get better prints.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="38972" LastActivityDate="2023-10-16T07:38:00.470" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21520" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21507" CreationDate="2023-10-16T17:01:04.967" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The reason I was having this problem was because of a file I had extracted that was on the sd card.&#xA;I noticed an orange dot at the end of the extracted file, so I thought it was probably flashing and interfering with the firmware. After I deleted the extracted file and flashed the firmware it ran perfectly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40159" LastEditorUserId="40159" LastEditDate="2023-10-26T18:44:03.563" LastActivityDate="2023-10-26T18:44:03.563" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21524" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21513" CreationDate="2023-10-17T16:45:43.287" Score="1" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Clearance&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For parts that slot into one another, you need to include clearance. This clearance depends on your printer configuration and can be between 0.1 mm and 0.5 mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Calibrate your printer!&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might want to calibrate your printer and profile to learn what distance of clearance you need for your specific printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastActivityDate="2023-10-17T16:45:43.287" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21526" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21514" CreationDate="2023-10-18T11:32:59.307" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would use ABS, but you shouldn't rely on the filament. This is a job for insulation to take care of. You don't expect the holder to do any more than hold the component in electrical applications.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31811" LastActivityDate="2023-10-18T11:32:59.307" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21528" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21651" CreationDate="2023-10-18T12:35:11.527" Score="0" ViewCount="64" Body="&lt;p&gt;Printer: Creality CR-10 Smart&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Slicer: Cura&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My axial fan, which cools the heatsink, broke down. I replaced it with a cheap knock-off fan, as it was the only option available. However, this replacement caused temperature fluctuations that went beyond the acceptable range.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's what I tried to fix the issue:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I initially tried flipping the direction of the axial fan to make it blow hot air instead of surrounding air. This seemed to work for a while, but it caused heat to build up, and my 3D printer's filament stopped extruding from the nozzle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I attempted to lower the current supplied to the fan, thinking it might help. However, this turned out to be a bad idea, as I wasn't sure how much current the main board could safely supply through this port. The result was that the resistor I used got fried.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I then decided to mount a 740 Ω resistor in series to create a voltage drop, leaving about 10 volts for the fan. Unfortunately, this also led to heat build-up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Finally, I tried mounting a 320 Ω resistor, leaving about 14.5 volts for the fan, and this seemed to work fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm concerned about heat dissipation and the overall reliability of this solution. What are your thoughts on this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The issue stems from the small size of the heatsink and the large size of the axial fan, which directly faces the heat block. I'm now considering the option of mounting a 24 V, 3x3 cm fan and creating a custom mount for it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="32434" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2023-10-18T14:17:42.450" LastActivityDate="2023-11-19T08:57:47.277" Title="Changing axial fan on CR-10 smart caused temp fluctuation/heat creep" Tags="|hotend|creality-cr-10|creality|fans|heat-creep|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21530" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21494" CreationDate="2023-10-19T18:39:24.553" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Those are JST SYP 2 pins female.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40116" LastActivityDate="2023-10-19T18:39:24.553" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21532" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15281" CreationDate="2023-10-20T17:18:20.313" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not all Glues are PVA based. There is one glue manufacturer call CGMaxed that makes an alcohol based PVB glue. Sold on Ebay exclusively for 22 dollars per 6 oz. I use it every day when my supports fail to stick or having levelling issues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40235" LastActivityDate="2023-10-20T17:18:20.313" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21534" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21548" CreationDate="2023-10-21T15:01:13.687" Score="0" ViewCount="322" Body="&lt;p&gt;On my Creality Ender 3 v2, I have performed bed levelling and am fairly confident that the nozzle height is correct - a piece of paper under the nozzle can be pulled out with a gentle tug. For some reason, the first layer that prints always has the nozzle too far off the bed and so it's not adhering correctly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure if I've missed something with bed levelling, or if there is some other setting I need to tweak.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;FYI I'm printing with a 0.8 mm diameter nozzle with 0.5 mm layer height and 0.45 mm initial layer height. When I look at the printer in action, the first pass looks like the nozzle is about 1 mm off the bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="38429" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2023-10-21T17:08:01.703" LastActivityDate="2023-10-26T10:46:43.183" Title="Creality Ender 3 v2 1st layer too high off bed" Tags="|creality-ender-3|bed-leveling|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21535" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21534" CreationDate="2023-10-21T21:01:25.393" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can check for offsets to the home positions. M206 will show home offsets. If you have automated bed levelling with probing there is another offset to view with M851. Depending on firmware versions you might have to run M503 to show all the offsets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40248" LastActivityDate="2023-10-21T21:01:25.393" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21537" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-10-23T11:15:32.720" Score="2" ViewCount="31" Body="&lt;p&gt;I work with poly-jet printed parts, more specifically, Stratasys objet pro, printed in Vero Black.&#xA;The parts are always fully cured before taken off the bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We are sometimes required to sand these printed parts down once support material is removed.&#xA;Is the dust given off during sanding (with sand paper or a Dremel tool) harmful similar to uncured material? can the dust given off whilst sanding still be carcinogenic if you breathe it in? or the fact that the material is cured makes it safe?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just to add, it's only a few instances I've sanded to the point lots of particles are given off, usually its just a quick dash on the sandpaper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40257" LastEditorUserId="40257" LastEditDate="2023-10-23T14:46:02.803" LastActivityDate="2023-10-23T14:46:02.803" Title="Are fully cured Polyjet parts safe to sand?" Tags="|safety|polyjet-printer|toxicity|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21540" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-10-24T14:21:03.650" Score="0" ViewCount="43" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm using a Prusa i3 MK3, with Prusa Slicer 2.2.  It seems to print the raft fine, but then when it gets to the main part, it seems that the extrusion comes out thinner, and leaves gaps/holes in the layers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Filament: PLA&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Layer height: 0.1 mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Infill: 30% Gyroid&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Print speed:&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Perimeters: 35 mm/s&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Infill: 50 mm/s&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;First layer speed: 20 mm/s&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Extruder temp: 205 °C&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Nozzle diameter: 0.4 mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Retraction length: 2 mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/l1SP7.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Photo of a 3D printed model with gaps/holes&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/l1SP7.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Photo of a 3D printed model with gaps/holes&quot; title=&quot;Photo of a 3D printed model with gaps/holes&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40273" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2023-10-24T14:50:08.353" LastActivityDate="2023-10-24T14:50:08.353" Title="Print walls coming out with gaps/holes" Tags="|print-quality|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21543" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-10-25T19:23:50.290" Score="3" ViewCount="226" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am facing a problem where the nozzle begins scrapping &lt;strong&gt;only on one side&lt;/strong&gt; of the print as the print thickness builds up on the bed. I am building a skirt comprising 10 rasters as well and over there the bed level appears to be pretty uniform on all sides around the print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this context, I wanted to understand what the extensive Z-offset processing means and if this could address the problem I am facing. The Z-offset setting I have is -0.06 mm in the slicer and -3.15 mm on the printer. There is no scrapping on any other side of the printed object.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also want to understand why the build plate adhesion setting (highlighted in the image) is shown as off while I am building a skirt around the print which is set up from the build plate adhesion setting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZXCYI.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Screenshot of Creality Slicer 4.8 with the 'Extensive Z Offset Processing' option highlighted&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZXCYI.png&quot; alt=&quot;Screenshot of Creality Slicer 4.8 with the 'Extensive Z Offset Processing' option highlighted&quot; title=&quot;Screenshot of Creality Slicer 4.8 with the 'Extensive Z Offset Processing' option highlighted&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="33558" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2023-10-25T19:33:46.520" LastActivityDate="2023-10-25T19:41:42.273" Title="What does extensive Z-offset processing in Creality 4.8 slicer mean? How does it differ from a simple Z-offset setting?" Tags="|bed-leveling|print-axis-offset|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21544" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21543" CreationDate="2023-10-25T19:41:42.273" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;TLDR: The &lt;strong&gt;Extensive Z Offset Processing&lt;/strong&gt; option changes the G-code for &lt;em&gt;any/all&lt;/em&gt; Z movement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to an answer by fieldofView on the GitHub question &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/fieldOfView/Cura-ZOffsetPlugin/issues/19#issuecomment-803526014&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Z-Offset incrementing in some situations?&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can try setting the &amp;quot;Extensive Z Offset Processing&amp;quot; option. &lt;strong&gt;This will change all the Z coordinates in the gcode instead of manipulating the coordinate system.&lt;/strong&gt; [bold mine]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was able to confirm this from an answer by ahoeben on the Ultimaker Community question &lt;a href=&quot;https://community.ultimaker.com/topic/33279-cura-settings-improving-naming-and-descriptions/?do=findComment&amp;amp;comment=269837&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Cura settings: Improving naming and descriptions&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is provided by the Z Offset plugin (which - coincidentally - I wrote). Keeping this setting &amp;quot;off&amp;quot; is much faster, since it only needs to insert a couple of lines of code. &lt;strong&gt;Turning the setting on will need to process the whole gcode file and modify all moves that have a Z value. The option is there because the better, faster way does not work on some specificly broken firmware versions and printers.&lt;/strong&gt; [bold mine]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23193" LastActivityDate="2023-10-25T19:41:42.273" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21545" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19532" CreationDate="2023-10-25T20:41:08.787" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found out that the motherboard had gotten damaged and the green light indication had to do with showcasing this. The problem was resolved when I bought a new motherboard online and replaced the damaged motherboard with the new one. The printer works fine now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="33558" LastActivityDate="2023-10-25T20:41:08.787" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21548" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21534" CreationDate="2023-10-26T10:46:43.183" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think there were two things wrong here:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I was not levelling the bed correctly - I was manually moving the z-axis down to the lower limit - which can be slightly different to the printer lowering until the limit switch activates (Menu &amp;gt; Prepare &amp;gt; Auto home).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Looking at the suggested answer &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/19021/nozzle-not-level-and-first-print-failed&quot;&gt;Nozzle not level and first print failed&lt;/a&gt; I did check the position of my z-axis limit switch and it was pushed all the way downwards. I decided to try filing a bit off the notch which rests on the base rails so that the z-limit would be hit a bit lower.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="38429" LastActivityDate="2023-10-26T10:46:43.183" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21550" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-10-27T13:02:19.533" Score="0" ViewCount="44" Body="&lt;p&gt;Printer: Bambu Lab P1P&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Filament: PLA (Ender Series)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All looks good, but for some reason, the outer walls are folded inwards a little bit. All walls are supposed to be straight. I printed it using Bambu Studio with default settings for Generic PLA.&#xA;What could cause such a defect and how to fix it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Previously, I printed out a box that is a bit bigger with separative walls for minidiscs and it printed perfectly. In that model, other walls were thicker.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5MR3I.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Photo of a 3D printed model of a box with the outer walls bent inwards&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5MR3I.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Photo of a 3D printed model of a box with the outer walls bent inwards&quot; title=&quot;Photo of a 3D printed model of a box with the outer walls bent inwards&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40303" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2023-10-28T23:52:48.193" LastActivityDate="2023-10-28T23:52:48.193" Title="PLA prints with folded walls" Tags="|print-quality|bambu-lab-p1p|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21551" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21489" CreationDate="2023-10-28T07:34:31.483" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes this is perfectly possible to do in UltiMaker Cura. The technique to use is described in question &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6522/different-infill-in-the-same-part&quot;&gt;Different infill in the same part&lt;/a&gt; and explained in &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/6523/&quot;&gt;this answer &lt;/a&gt; for 2 separate slicersm this answer focuses on the Ultimake Cura slicer per the question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Considering the following example geometry based on the sliced image from the question (disregarding the linked test file to better comply to the question at hand):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YYWi3.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YYWi3.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In Cura this model can be sliced using a support blocker that has the &lt;code&gt;Per Model Settings&lt;/code&gt; configured with the &lt;code&gt;Cutting mesh&lt;/code&gt; option:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KZHfV.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KZHfV.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is key to use the &lt;code&gt;Cutting mesh&lt;/code&gt; option and add properties you can change for &lt;code&gt;Wall Thickness&lt;/code&gt;, &lt;code&gt;Wall Line Count&lt;/code&gt;, &lt;code&gt;Top/Bottom Thickness&lt;/code&gt;, &lt;code&gt;Infill Density&lt;/code&gt;, &lt;code&gt;Infill Pattern&lt;/code&gt; and &lt;code&gt;Infill Line Directions&lt;/code&gt;. If these are not visible, you can add the settings through the &lt;code&gt;Select settings&lt;/code&gt; button.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;code&gt;Wall Thickness&lt;/code&gt;: you don't need to change this option, this is overruled by the  &lt;code&gt;Wall Line Count&lt;/code&gt; setting&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;code&gt;Wall Line Count&lt;/code&gt;: set to 0 (you do not need walls in the small area)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;code&gt;Top/Bottom Thickness&lt;/code&gt;: no top or bottom shells are required&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;code&gt;Infill Density&lt;/code&gt;: set to 99.9 %! beware to not set this to 100 % as this triggers Cura to use the &lt;code&gt;Lines&lt;/code&gt; infill pattern while you are interested in the &lt;code&gt;Zig Zag&lt;/code&gt; line style&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;code&gt;Infill Pattern&lt;/code&gt;: set to &lt;code&gt;Zig Zag&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;code&gt;Infill Line Directions&lt;/code&gt;: [90,90] (or [0, 0] depending on the orientation of the print object sliced in Cura); this determines the alternating pattern of the &lt;code&gt;Zig Zag&lt;/code&gt;, if the values are the same, each layer is sliced equivalent otherwise each other layer is rotated 90°&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Upon slicing this print object you will get the requested results:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jEb9N.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jEb9N.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;So, yes, you can change the direction of the small area you are interested in making clever (mis-)use of the options Cura provides.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2023-10-30T11:45:54.453" LastActivityDate="2023-10-30T11:45:54.453" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21552" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21554" CreationDate="2023-10-29T07:12:13.210" Score="2" ViewCount="34" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have planned a simple object in TinkerCAD from a &lt;em&gt;box&lt;/em&gt; with radius set to 1 mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However I would need to get a 3 mm rounding on the vertical axis, therefore I have added a quarter circular &lt;em&gt;eraser&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please see both of these in this shot:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WnLuv.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WnLuv.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now it's time to round the red one:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PT4i6.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PT4i6.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looks good from top-angle:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/d2Kr4.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/d2Kr4.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But it's not rounded properly from other angles:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1M5IY.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1M5IY.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wish to maintain the 1 mm rounding on the whole edge, how can I do that?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried many things:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1.) Inverse ring eraser: almost good, but I would need 2 mm width, and 3 mm outer radius which is impossible (for a ring).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2TANn.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2TANn.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2.) Inverse half sphere: not good, as it's not the shape I need&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Finally&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I succeeded with a &amp;quot;hack&amp;quot;: ring with 4 mm width and 6 mm radius, then scaled back to 50 %, making it 3 radius and 2 mm width. Then create variuos inverse-quarters from it (&lt;em&gt;eraser&lt;/em&gt;) and tune them even further removing unnecessary halves:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9SMAZ.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9SMAZ.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using these erasers I could finally reach my goal:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lCilM.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lCilM.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However this is super-tedious, is there a better software out (I'm sure it is), which can do this &amp;quot;rounding&amp;quot; effect on any object? Now I'm satisfied, but if I need to&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;increase the height&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;change the size&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm screwed up: will have to &amp;quot;slice&amp;quot; this object to 3 pieces, increase the size of the middle, and then put them back together. Do this for every single axis. (= scale operation I'll need to slice this object to 9 pieces).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="39367" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2023-10-29T12:42:18.693" LastActivityDate="2023-10-29T12:42:18.693" Title="How to maintain 1 mm rounding when I need 3 mm in a single axis?" Tags="|tinkercad|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21553" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-10-29T12:17:01.513" Score="1" ViewCount="35" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been looking for various ways to cut down on material costs in my 3D prints. One of them is reducing material in supports, or trying to get rid of supports completely. I do not have a question on how to reduce by changing settings regarding the supports but rather the shape of the supports.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have an old Creality Ender 3, but it has no issues with printing +/-45° overhangs. Cura generates pretty much vertical supports for anything above a 45° angle, which makes sense. but would it be possible to have a slicer generate support where the walls of said support have overhangs themselves? Another way of putting it, the bottom of the support has a small surface and slowly expands upwards to the size of the roof that it is supporting. As long as the angle is under 45° this should be sturdy, but cut down significantly on support material.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hwJl2.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Screenshot of Cura's Preview showing the support material on a model where the support material itself has overhangs&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hwJl2.png&quot; alt=&quot;Screenshot of Cura's Preview showing the support material on a model where the support material itself has overhangs&quot; title=&quot;Screenshot of Cura's Preview showing the support material on a model where the support material itself has overhangs&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried the other support option Cura offers (tree) but it's nowhere near what I mean. I feel like I'm on to something I just wouldn't know how to approach it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40322" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2023-10-29T13:55:23.007" LastActivityDate="2023-11-22T16:08:22.553" Title="Is there a possibility to print supports that have overhang themselves?" Tags="|support-structures|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21554" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21552" CreationDate="2023-10-29T12:40:17.573" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;TinkerCAD is a fine tool for simple designs, but when you need to fillet or chamfer corners, this involves too many actions where you cut out the parts to get the requested fillet/chamfer. It might be interesting to save time to move to a different design tool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This geometry is recreated in a few minutes in e.g. Fusion360, considering this is a simple design, you need to change the order of the actions to fillet the object properly. Fillet the corners of the box prior to filetting the box itself:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CF1Zd.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CF1Zd.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/arheg.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/arheg.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GeqIw.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GeqIw.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In case the design is way more complex an alternative solution would be to join a cube in the corner and round that:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/phkT3.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/phkT3.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7DFFa.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7DFFa.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/05wMn.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/05wMn.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jLnjE.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jLnjE.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2023-10-29T12:40:17.573" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21555" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-10-29T19:04:23.973" Score="0" ViewCount="42" Body="&lt;p&gt;My 3D printer is only printing 2 hours of a print before it stops extruding filament. I have an Anycubic Mega Zero 2.0, it printed the print I was printing before but just recently it started happening.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried getting new nozzles. At first it seemed to work but I tried printing 3 of the skeleton fish and it just printed for 2 hours.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't have an Ender branded 3D printer that's just my build surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UeQYr.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UeQYr.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;The picture of the fish. I don't have an Ender, that's just the build surface&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40336" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2023-10-29T19:43:49.903" LastActivityDate="2023-10-29T19:43:49.903" Title="My 3D printer is only printing 2 hours of a print" Tags="|print-quality|anycubic-mega-zero|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21556" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21553" CreationDate="2023-10-29T19:12:54.643" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds like you're looking for Cura's &amp;quot;Conical Support&amp;quot; option, which I believe is still classified as &amp;quot;experimental&amp;quot; and not shown by default, but works great in my experience. Search for it and make it visible if it's not visible by default in your version of Cura.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other option is using tree supports. These will naturally have overhangs (up to &amp;quot;Support Tree Angle&amp;quot;), but differ in lots of other ways that can make them a lot better or some what worse than &amp;quot;classic&amp;quot; supports depending on what you're trying to print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2023-10-29T19:12:54.643" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21557" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14783" CreationDate="2023-10-30T14:28:33.480" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Make sure to use a flexable print bed - when printing is finished wait a few minutes so it can cool down, take the print bed off of the build plate and flex it so the print just pops off for the most part. I also use a laminated PEI sheet over the bed plate&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40342" LastActivityDate="2023-10-30T14:28:33.480" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21558" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21561" CreationDate="2023-10-30T16:57:58.700" Score="1" ViewCount="404" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm using (as pure beginner, please be respectful to my little knowledge in this topic) FreeCAD v0.21.1 for a simple design I wish to 3D print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is how it looks like from the front (at least partially):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/e5mEz.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/e5mEz.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Text is made with &lt;em&gt;ShapeText&lt;/em&gt; and I applied a small &lt;em&gt;Pocket&lt;/em&gt; onto it in Part Design:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XXHVo.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XXHVo.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have many operations after this text pocket in the tree.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm satisfied with my results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I however wished to make another one, with different text, so I followed a tutorial to copy my whole &amp;quot;Body_of_ND32&amp;quot; to a new &amp;quot;Body_of_ND16&amp;quot;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cMfl1.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cMfl1.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After this operation, I have got an error complaining &amp;quot;Recompute failed&amp;quot;, and text pocket is containing the original &amp;quot;ND32&amp;quot; pocket, instead my new value.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, I could rebuild the whole thing from scratch adding the text only at the end, to keep everything in shape, but can I somehow detect what's wrong with the recomputation?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="39367" LastActivityDate="2023-10-31T15:53:50.477" Title="Compute failed? Why?" Tags="|freecad|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21559" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20017" CreationDate="2023-10-31T02:13:08.413" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Longer LK5 Pro. The filament runout sensor provides the perfect functionality for this problem.&#xA;Insert a switch in the sensor line. I used this &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B09SH7HQR6&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;12V 24V Latching Switch, Mini Latching Push Button Switch&lt;/a&gt;.&#xA;Pop the button over infill, the runout routine stops the print nearly instantly, parks the print head and brings up the change filament option screen. Make the change, pop the button, and hit resume. Clunky, but it works.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="38675" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2023-10-31T03:51:57.443" LastActivityDate="2023-10-31T03:51:57.443" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21560" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-10-31T14:03:59.123" Score="1" ViewCount="114" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm working with a Manta M8P and CB1 and the environment I'm working in requires it to be directly connected to the PC via an ethernet cable. (Wi-Fi or ethernet connection to the router is not possible)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, when I do this, the Mainsail interface is often not viewable and the SSH connection keeps breaking. I remember trying this with a Raspberry Pi in the past and there were no issues seeing Mainsail and SSH work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has anyone experienced this or does anyone know what's different with BTT that would cause this? I noticed the device seems to be working when it has an IPV4 address. But it only holds it for a few minutes, and I can tell it loses it when everything starts breaking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40357" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2023-11-02T13:37:11.500" LastActivityDate="2023-11-02T13:37:11.500" Title="What causes an unstable ethernet connectivity with Manta M8P/CB1?" Tags="|bigtreetech|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21561" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21558" CreationDate="2023-10-31T15:53:50.477" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;A &amp;quot;Recompute failed&amp;quot; is not your fault. Freecad is a free CAD software that is maintained by more than 400 volunteers. It is a bug in the software and happens often, for example because of floating point rounding errors. Just moving or changing a shape or body a tiny amount might fix the problem. It could happen when intersecions happen exactly on a line, outlines make a shape self-intersect or beveled objects produce unexpected results or for other unexpected reasons. If you see a pattern in the cause of the error, you might file a &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/FreeCAD/FreeCAD/issues&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;bug report&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4708" LastActivityDate="2023-10-31T15:53:50.477" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21563" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-11-01T00:26:51.797" Score="0" ViewCount="199" Body="&lt;p&gt;Non-G-code data can be embedded in G-code files, like embedded base64 encoded thumbnails. I was wondering, is there is a common way to include (at least the most important) slicer settings that were used to generate that particular G-code file?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have more and more design files and sliced G-code files, in OctoPrint folders and I sometimes really want to know what settings I used to slice it. For example, after the new Cura 5.5 upgrade, I was constantly wondering, which version I used for each independent file.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, I sometimes chose a different quality (layer height) or different infill percentage or scale. I now work around it by using a self-made file naming convention that consists of this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;code&gt;ObjectName_v55_n06_q028_s100_i20_a1&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;- v Slicer Version (in my case always Cura)&#xA;- n Nozzle size (in mm)&#xA;- q Quality (Layer Height without the dot)&#xA;- s Scale percentage (0-100)&#xA;- i Infill percentage (0-100)&#xA;- a Amount (if object is multiplied)&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I really would like to see those things back in OctoPrint when opening a G-code file, so I can decide if I need to reslice, is there a plugin for Cura and OctoPrint, or a standardized way to save this info embedded in a G-code file and &lt;a href=&quot;https://community.octoprint.org/t/like-to-add-custom-metadata-to-file-and-show-it-is-the-gui/37582&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;show it in OctoPrint&lt;/a&gt;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36802" LastEditorUserId="36802" LastEditDate="2023-11-06T11:15:55.840" LastActivityDate="2023-11-08T15:04:39.983" Title="Is there a (common) way to embed used Slicer settings inside the G-code file?" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|g-code|octoprint|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21564" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21794" CreationDate="2023-11-01T08:45:01.660" Score="1" ViewCount="106" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to end the bed heating approximately X minutes before the print is finished so that the bed starts cooling and releasing the print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since an object can have different sizes and printing one layer can take very long or very quickly, I cannot simply insert an &lt;code&gt;M140 S0&lt;/code&gt; before the last layer. &lt;strong&gt;What is the best time interval and method to achieve this?&lt;/strong&gt; Is there a Cura slicer extension for it, an OctoPrint plugin, or should I write a custom script for Cura? I mostly print with a 50 °C heated bed and PLA using OctoPi on a Creality Ender 3 v2 with Marlin firmware. With a printer bed at room temperature, the print could come loose too early while still printing, so 20 °C might be too extreme. Make sure the printer is finished when the bed is around 35-40 °C? Is there any theory and method to back this up? Does this method have a term or name?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36802" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2023-12-11T15:04:18.500" LastActivityDate="2023-12-19T04:16:29.647" Title="What is the best time interval and method to stop heating the bed to start releasing before the print is finished?" Tags="|marlin|ultimaker-cura|heated-bed|octoprint|cooling|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21565" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21796" CreationDate="2023-11-01T09:28:38.737" Score="1" ViewCount="175" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've noticed several times that one of my stepper motors is making a slight noise after a print is finished, indicating it's still enabled; also, the axes are still statically positioned and unmovable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I meant that the stepper motors are still powered. Usually, after a print, the extruder moves up and away, and the bed moves to the front. However, some X seconds after that, I would like to automatically turn off the steppers because it could potentially preserve the lifetime of my stepper motors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is this a common practice, and if so, does this method have a name?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Does it indeed potentially increase lifetime?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How to do it? (By simply adding &lt;a href=&quot;https://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M018.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;code&gt;M18/M84&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/a&gt; at the end of my G-code using a Cura script or using an OctoPi plugin?)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Are there any other pros or cons to powering off stepper motors after the print has finished?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36802" LastEditorUserId="36802" LastEditDate="2023-12-11T19:08:02.243" LastActivityDate="2023-12-11T21:42:29.463" Title="What are the pros and cons of automatically turning off stepper motors after a print? Does it increase the stepper motor's lifetime?" Tags="|creality-ender-3|marlin|ultimaker-cura|stepper|octoprint|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21566" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-11-01T09:34:30.750" Score="1" ViewCount="79" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm working with Marlin 2.0.x firmware for a special device, I have added an extra axis to the firmware and it's working well, However, I'd like to implement a custom G-code command that can parse a group of strings I've defined in the &lt;code&gt;Configuration.h&lt;/code&gt; file.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Specifically, I want to:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Define a group of strings, for example, &lt;code&gt;G** x** y**, G** z**, M**&lt;/code&gt; (like a series of codes) within &lt;code&gt;Configuration.h&lt;/code&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Add a new custom G-code command, let's call it &lt;code&gt;M9999&lt;/code&gt;, which, when sent to the printer, would trigger the firmware to parse and use the values of the previously defined custom strings in some way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've explored various resources and attempted modifications, but I'm struggling with the exact steps and code changes required to achieve this functionality. Could someone please provide guidance on how to properly define these strings and implement the custom G-code command within Marlin 2.0.x?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have already checked Macros in Marlin firmware, but macros need to be redefined every time I turn on the printer as they can't be saved in the firmware or in the EEPROM. I have found a way to add a new G-code in &lt;code&gt;gcode.c&lt;/code&gt; however I don't know which function can parse a string, or where to add this function.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In &lt;code&gt;M810&lt;/code&gt;-&lt;code&gt;M819&lt;/code&gt;, I found &lt;code&gt;char * const cmd = gcode_macros[index]; if (strlen(cmd)) process_subcommands_now(cmd);&lt;/code&gt;. Can I use the function &lt;code&gt;process_subcommands_now(cmd)&lt;/code&gt; to parse and run a group of G-codes predefined in &lt;code&gt;configuration.h&lt;/code&gt;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your expertise and advice on the necessary modifications and syntax would be greatly appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40366" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2023-11-01T14:20:41.093" LastActivityDate="2023-11-01T14:20:41.093" Title="Adding a custom G-code to parse strings from `configuration.h` in Marlin 2.0.x" Tags="|marlin|g-code|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21567" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21596" CreationDate="2023-11-01T10:24:46.457" Score="1" ViewCount="176" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently started using this &lt;a href=&quot;https://plugins.octoprint.org/plugins/prusaslicerthumbnails/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Slicer Thumbnails&lt;/a&gt; plugin in OctoPrint and added the steps to my Cura 5.5 slicer. However, my thumbnails are in one color, like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8QHHI.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Screenshot of the Slicer Thumbnails plugin for Cura slicer showing the model as a single, all-black image&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8QHHI.png&quot; alt=&quot;Screenshot of the Slicer Thumbnails plugin for Cura slicer showing the model as a single, all-black image&quot; title=&quot;Screenshot of the Slicer Thumbnails plugin for Cura slicer showing the model as a single, all-black image&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And are not showing any depth as shown for example on the plugin page:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UruMum.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Screenshot of the Slicer Thumbnails webpage showing a multi-colored preview thumbnail&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UruMum.png&quot; alt=&quot;Screenshot of the Slicer Thumbnails webpage showing a multi-colored preview thumbnail&quot; title=&quot;Screenshot of the Slicer Thumbnails webpage showing a multi-colored preview thumbnail&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Am I missing something here or is there a better way to create and add beautiful thumbnails?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;For reference, I used the model &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6291901&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Female Scart Dust Cap for Male Scart Connector&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36802" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2023-11-06T14:54:48.177" LastActivityDate="2023-11-08T14:33:28.087" Title="Why are my Cura generated thumbnails showing in one flat color without any depth?" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|g-code|octoprint|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21568" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-11-01T14:56:41.570" Score="1" ViewCount="210" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yesterday I was printing just fine. Today I put the new springs that I bought from Amazon. Swapped them out, went to level things and my Z-offset was of course way off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have the &lt;code&gt;Ender3V2-422-BLTUBL-MPC-20230904.bin&lt;/code&gt; firmware from mriscoc&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I homed and set the probe Z-offset with paper barely grabbing at the tip.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do the tramming wizard and get it all within limits, do the auto mesh, and it checks out all green (until this last one after several bed digs).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now when I try to print, it goes through the steps, and when it does the last piece of 25 (back left corner) it just immediately plunges straight down and digs into the bed until I yank the power.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The probe worked fine until that point, and I changed nothing in my settings. The CR Touch triggers every time, until after that 25th square, and then it just dives into the plate and the printer sounds like it's trying to kill itself, and I have to kill the power manually.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Literally, the only thing I did was change the springs. I know I have to figure out how to tighten my arm now and the entire hotend assembly because it's loose after diving into the bed several times.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope someone has seen something like this before. I'm at my wits end trying to figure out what is causing this all of a sudden as it doesn't make sense to me. I would maybe understand if it was just digging a little across the board when resetting to start extruding, but the thing just straight-up plunges down and doesn't stop until I kill the power.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40371" LastEditorUserId="36802" LastEditDate="2023-11-22T16:12:56.563" LastActivityDate="2023-12-22T17:07:10.897" Title="Ender 3v2 nozzle plunging into bed after finishing mesh (only changed springs)" Tags="|automatic-bed-leveling|ender3|mriscoc|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21570" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21571" CreationDate="2023-11-02T07:32:08.690" Score="1" ViewCount="232" Body="&lt;p&gt;Plastic straws are forbidden in the EU so it will get harder to buy them. I wonder if it is possible to 3D print plastic straws? I would likely use them as tools when woodworking, but if you can use them to drink beverages that would be a bonus. I am not familiar with 3D printing so I don't know if it is possible to get them bendable and so on like usual plastic straws.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40378" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2023-11-02T13:42:13.817" LastActivityDate="2023-11-12T07:12:02.510" Title="Is it possible to 3D print plastic straws?" Tags="|plastic|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21571" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21570" CreationDate="2023-11-02T07:58:50.427" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, it's possible to print, you can print almost anything. The question should be if you actually want to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From 3 July 2021, single-use plastic plates, cutlery, straws, balloon sticks and cotton buds cannot be placed on the markets of the EU Member States.&lt;br&gt;(Source: &lt;a href=&quot;https://environment.ec.europa.eu/topics/plastics/single-use-plastics/eu-restrictions-certain-single-use-plastics_en&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;EU restrictions on certain single-use plastics&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A few things about this, if you use them as a woodworking tool, I suppose that's not a single use. Also, you're not selling them (&amp;quot;placing them on the market&amp;quot;), it's for personal use only. So my guess would be that this use case is allowed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are many designs that are about &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/tag:straw&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;straws or include straws&lt;/a&gt;. I'm sure you can find some design or make it yourself since the shape is quite easy (as is tinkercad.com).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, it's not generally recommended for health reasons to eat or drink from 3D prints. To my understanding, PLA is the most food-safe but it perhaps lacks the flexible properties you asked for. However, even with PLA, there are concerns about the intake of microplastics, which is very concerning in health terms.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want truly flexible material you could print with TPU but as far as I know, there isn't a food-safe TPU on the market. There are special &amp;quot;food safe&amp;quot; filaments on the market but the issue with microplastic intake due to the inherent result of (FDM) printing layer on layer remains.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maybe it is possible to print in a more food-secure way with resin printing but I don't know enough about that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36802" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2023-11-02T13:46:42.750" LastActivityDate="2023-11-02T13:46:42.750" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21572" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21568" CreationDate="2023-11-02T08:18:08.593" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds to me like your end-stops positions relative to your new bed level are off or the Z-offset is very off, did you use microsteps and manually checked the Z-offset?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The nozzle crashing into the bed is kind of catastrophic, the bed is maybe much higher than the current end-stops. Could that be the case?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VlPaX.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VlPaX.png&quot; alt=&quot;Ender 3 V2 endstops&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Make sure that the end-stops are high enough to prevent the nozzle from being below bed level and preventing physical damage to the bed. Also make sure that your end-stops are tightly connected to the frame, unable to move to avoid further offsetting issues such as:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HzgRqm.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HzgRqm.png&quot; alt=&quot;Ender 3 V2 endstop movement&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As explained &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O4idrobsljs&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;in this YouTube video&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36802" LastEditorUserId="36802" LastEditDate="2023-11-06T11:32:07.827" LastActivityDate="2023-11-06T11:32:07.827" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21573" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21568" CreationDate="2023-11-02T13:24:25.563" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was under the assumption that the 'Z-probe wizard' menu meant when I chose 'auto homing&amp;quot; and it went to the middle, did the probe, finished and went back up, that &lt;strong&gt;that&lt;/strong&gt; position was the Z-home of the printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I then chose the manual offset and leveled it. Tests would run and at the end catastrophic bed plunge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then I 'noticed' the 'home Z' or 'move Z home' option (not sure of the exact term as I'm at work) and when I chose it, it immediately dove into the plate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Solution:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;After&lt;/strong&gt; doing the auto-homing:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I manually set the Z stop to like +4.00 mm for safety.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Chose the 'move Z home' and it ended up above the plate this time.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Choose the manual offset and level as usual, then save the setting.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tested this time and things worked fine. I had a spot during a print where it got stuck about 75% through, but I think I didn't have the nozzle quite close enough to start.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the main takeaway is that the 'auto home' wizard doesn't set the initial/starting Z height like I thought it did.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40371" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2023-11-02T13:40:11.573" LastActivityDate="2023-11-02T13:40:11.573" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21574" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21570" CreationDate="2023-11-02T14:48:03.140" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes! I would print in a vertical configuration. So you'd need a 6-8&amp;quot; Z-axis, and I'd definitely check my Z-axis, you'd have a better result if you printed in a continuous mode. Increase the tempemperature for PLA by 5 °C. Turn your cooling fans up to 100 %.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40382" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2023-11-03T09:41:52.257" LastActivityDate="2023-11-03T09:41:52.257" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21575" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21570" CreationDate="2023-11-03T08:55:28.860" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;To be honest: No, straws are long, open structures that don't print well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When printing vertically, the layer lines are horizontal and make the straw structural weak. It will break when bent a little.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When printing horizontally, it will have rough sides because of support material or sagged sides.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It will probably not be watertight. FDM prints are rarely watertight.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When printing vertically, going upwards, the print head will bend the straw and deform the result and maybe even fail, depending on the height.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Even though I would drink from PLA material, it is not considered food-safe, especially because the rough edges cause a nice home for bacteria&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;TPU won't be your friend here as it will bend when printing. having a Prusa i3 derivate will make this even worse as it rapidly moves the printbed back and forth, which makes the straw bend all over the place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;SLA prints won't have as many of above issues, but until cured well, it is pretty toxic. Also it will be even less strong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You're probably better off importing straws or rolling your own from a thin sheet of plastic. (roll 2 times and secure with a small piece of tape. )&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4708" LastActivityDate="2023-11-03T08:55:28.860" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21576" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21570" CreationDate="2023-11-03T13:32:09.720" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, you can print functional straws with FDM printing. Most manufactured straws are polypropylene (PP), which is a food-safe plastic you can print, though it's reportedly a little bit difficult due to adhesion and warping issues. While not as common as PLA, ABS, or PETG, PP is readily obtained as filament. Thin-wall PETG or PET would likely also have the flexibility properties you want and may be easier to print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In terms of printing, orienting the straw along the Z axis is definitely possible, but difficult on bed slingers because the motion of the bed is working hard to deflect or detach it while you're trying to print. It's also very hard to cool sufficiently fast. But it does allow vase mode, which makes water-tightness/air-tightness easier and gives a nice uniform surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Printing horizontally will not give a uniform round shape, but if you're happy with a slightly truncated cylinder, it's a much easier option. I have printed straw-like hoses successfully like this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another option is orienting the straw diagonally so that you have much larger cross sections than a fully vertical print, but a flat/truncated surface against the bed only at one end, where you can just cut it off. Depending on the angle, this probably requires minor supports, but that's an advantage since it gives you a lot of stability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Printed straws will be difficult to clean, but in most reasonable materials, including PP, PET, PETG, or PLA, they should be entirely food-safe for single use, &lt;strong&gt;contingent on lack of unsafe pigments&lt;/strong&gt;. If you want to use them this way (note: this may be an accessibility need in places where plastic straws are banned), choose uncolored/natural-color filaments and purchase from suppliers with a MSDS and/or other technical documentation that the filament does not contain sketchy additives. I do not see a plausible concern about microplastic ingestion here; if you're concerned, pre-rinse them to get off any dust. But PLA is safely absorbable by the body (used in medical implants, even) and PETG is essentially no different from polyester garment lint which you ingest in much larger quantities.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Update: Somewhat inspired by this question, when I found myself without a suitable straw for bubble tea, I quickly printed one from material that was known to be food-safe (it was formerly a seltzer water bottle) and it worked. Short video showing print orientation/process here: &lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/ZWgiITG9wSc?start=0&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastEditorUserId="11157" LastEditDate="2023-11-06T16:29:17.783" LastActivityDate="2023-11-06T16:29:17.783" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21577" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-11-03T22:32:40.783" Score="0" ViewCount="25" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm printing a 3D flower model using an old Ender 3 printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At first the printer was printing so well but suddenly, when printing something, the extruder starts to skip and make noises and stops loading filament to the nozzle and not printing at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After disassembling the PTF tube, it turns out that it was clogged so I decided to replace it with a Capricorn Bowden tube and after trying to print with the new upgrade the extruder is still skipping or clicking and making a noise and the nozzle is almost extruding filament.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have uploaded a video that describes the issue: &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/7oRFU4B8GtM?si=_5aL6C9CKSkxOlaB&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;extruder skipping ender 3&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/7oRFU4B8GtM?start=0&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;BTW I'm using very cheap PLA filament.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="39686" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2023-11-03T23:27:47.523" LastActivityDate="2023-11-03T23:27:47.523" Title="Ender 3 extruder skips" Tags="|creality-ender-3|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21581" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-11-04T19:00:59.290" Score="1" ViewCount="42" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am wondering how much time/material would that add up using &lt;a href=&quot;https://us.store.bambulab.com/products/ams-multicolor-printing&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;AMS&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.mosaicmfg.com/products/palette-3-pro&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Mosaic Pallet 3 Pro&lt;/a&gt; with an FDM 3D printer compare to using a single filament?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know it depends on how many colors we use and how we use the colors, but I am trying to estimate does it worth it to buy multi-color accessories regarding to using a single filament and hand painting the parts?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9013" LastActivityDate="2023-11-04T19:00:59.290" Title="How much time/material does it add up using a multi color 3D printer?" Tags="|fdm|multi-material|color|pallete-2|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21583" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21592" CreationDate="2023-11-05T12:06:54.643" Score="0" ViewCount="217" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have little experience with CAD software, only use Thinkercad and only recently started using the Revoscan app. I know how to rotate files when slicing (in Cura) but that only has an effect on the generated gcode file, not the STL/OBJ file. But as I'm trying to publish a few things I scanned using Kiri Engine (photogrammetry app) where the original rotation is wrong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to know if I have an object in OBJ/STL format how do I rotate the position in those files so I can publish my OBJ/STL files in the proper rotation. I'm fine to use another app or tool, I just don't know how to do it yet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36802" LastActivityDate="2023-11-05T19:27:24.410" Title="How to change the orientation of an object inside the STL or OBJ file?" Tags="|3d-design|stl|cad|obj|rotation|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21584" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21593" CreationDate="2023-11-05T12:12:20.563" Score="0" ViewCount="77" Body="&lt;p&gt;When scanning objects like sculptures using Kiri Engine (photogrammetry) often the bottom is open. What I currently do after exporting to OBJ, is opening it in my RevoScan app and use the &amp;quot;fill holes&amp;quot; feature to select it and fill it. However that's usually not entirely flat and suitable for printing and results in artifacts. What I then do it simply lower the object when slicing to sub-zero/a negative value to have a small part of the object be under the bed, basically cutting it off and leaving a perfectly flat surface in my gcode.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I want to really be able to do this in my STL/OBJ file already for publishing to Thingiverse. How do I alter the STL/OBJ file to basically achieve the same, but in my object rather than in the final gcode?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36802" LastActivityDate="2023-11-05T19:32:03.290" Title="How to I give my mesh object (STL/OBJ) a flat surface?" Tags="|3d-models|3d-design|stl|cad|obj|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21585" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-11-05T13:59:39.077" Score="0" ViewCount="127" Body="&lt;p&gt;In addition to this question: &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/21563/is-there-a-common-way-to-embed-used-slicer-settings-inside-the-g-code-file&quot;&gt;Is there a (common) way to embed used Slicer settings inside the G-code file?&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm considering writing a Cura script and OctoPrint plugin because what I want seems to be not available. I suggest adding, for example, a Base64 encoded JSON array with metadata (see &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/21563/is-there-a-common-way-to-embed-used-slicer-settings-inside-the-g-code-file&quot;&gt;previously mentioned question&lt;/a&gt;) into each generated G-code that then can be read by the OctoPrint plugin (or, even better, understood in the Marlin firmware).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Related to that, I would want OctoPrint, or the Marlin firmware, to know the installed nozzle size. That way, my OctoPrint plugin (or the firmware) can check and match the installed nozzle size versus the nozzle size used for slicing that G-code. If mismatched, prevent the printer from printing, advise to reslice, or warn about the mismatch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As we speak, I'm printing a physical nozzle size indicator, a physical &amp;quot;label&amp;quot; hanging on my printer. That's ridiculous and should be in the software.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I couldn't find such features in OctoPrint and Marlin documentation. This would be a great addition as it prevents errors and facilitates what some more expensive printers with &amp;quot;easy nozzle change&amp;quot; can do automatically.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;First side-note&lt;/strong&gt;: This could be easily implemented in a cross-compatible way with Prusa/Cura/Octo/Marlin, et cetera because a fundamental data structure containing the mentioned metadata (other question) is easy to implement for all without having compatibility issues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Second side note&lt;/strong&gt;: The same concept can also be applied to the filament color installed. If you can set the desired color in the metadata inside the G-code and the printer knows which color is installed, it can warn about mismatches.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36802" LastEditorUserId="36802" LastEditDate="2023-12-12T20:56:40.807" LastActivityDate="2023-12-12T20:56:40.807" Title="Is there a way to set the installed nozzle size (and installed filament color) in the Marlin firmware (or OctoPrint software)?" Tags="|marlin|ultimaker-cura|g-code|nozzle|octoprint|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21586" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-11-05T16:24:43.870" Score="0" ViewCount="51" Body="&lt;p&gt;Currently, OctoPrint shows a printer state such as &amp;quot;Printing&amp;quot; as shown below:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XY4Rv.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XY4Rv.png&quot; alt=&quot;OctoPrint State&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But is there is a way such as via a Cura script or OctoPrint Plugin to insert a special g-code and let OctoPrint show &amp;quot;State: Ironing&amp;quot; instead? This is especially helpful since I usually only iron my top layer, so it's only busy ironing from a specific layer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or does Marlin firmware already know and support states other than &amp;quot;stopped, paused, printing&amp;quot; such as ironing, tramming, leveling, heating?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36802" LastEditorUserId="36802" LastEditDate="2024-01-11T18:42:11.193" LastActivityDate="2024-01-11T18:42:11.193" Title="Do OctoPrint or Marlin support &quot;ironing&quot; and additional printing states?" Tags="|marlin|ultimaker-cura|g-code|octoprint|scripts|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21587" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-11-05T16:54:09.537" Score="0" ViewCount="81" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm using the OctoPrint plugin &lt;a href=&quot;https://plugins.octoprint.org/plugins/UltimakerFormatPackage/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Cura Thumbnails&lt;/a&gt; along with the &lt;strong&gt;Filament Change&lt;/strong&gt; post-processing plugin in Cura 5.5:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0Rg8H.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Screenshot of Cura's Post-Processing plugins&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0Rg8H.png&quot; alt=&quot;Screenshot of Cura's Post-Processing plugins&quot; title=&quot;Screenshot of Cura's Post-Processing plugins&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to create multi-color thumbnails that keep into account the 'Filament Change' script that was used, for example, when printing something as shown below:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EHEPi.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Photo of two multi-colored 3D printed pyramids&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EHEPi.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Photo of two multi-colored 3D printed pyramids&quot; title=&quot;Photo of two multi-colored 3D printed pyramids&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can the use of the &lt;strong&gt;Filament Change&lt;/strong&gt; script in the Create Thumbnail script be reflected so that the &lt;strong&gt;Create Thumbnail&lt;/strong&gt; script can account for the color change with the desired colors, and the thumbnail will contain multiple colors, as shown in the above image?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For reference: &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/jneilliii/OctoPrint-UltimakerFormatPackage/issues/64&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;OctoPrint-UltimakerFormatPackage: Feature Request&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/Ultimaker/Cura/issues/17459&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Ultimaker/Cura: Feature Request&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36802" LastEditorUserId="36802" LastEditDate="2023-11-28T09:30:48.113" LastActivityDate="2023-11-28T09:30:48.113" Title="Is there a way to reflect 'filament color change' in Cura-generated thumbnails?" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|octoprint|color|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21588" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-11-05T17:18:54.077" Score="-1" ViewCount="97" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am thinking of 3D printing a metal part from JLC PCB's metal 3D printing service. The part will be used in a compressed air application. I need to be able to statically seal the part using an O-ring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will the part be smooth enough to seal with an O-ring or is there any post-processing I need to do? If I do need to post-process the part, what steps should I take?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40413" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2023-11-16T08:43:01.810" LastActivityDate="2023-12-16T10:00:25.087" Title="Ability to O-ring seal SLM 3D printed part" Tags="|print-quality|smoothing|metal-parts|slm|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21589" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21680" CreationDate="2023-11-05T17:33:55.923" Score="0" ViewCount="108" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is the average or recommended lifespan for standard Creality printer nozzles used with non-abrasive standard PLA only? What is a proper metric for that, time used, time heated, filament meters that passed through?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does the nozzle diameter affect the lifespan?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;I know nozzles are cheap, but I'm asking because I'm thinking of writing a maintenance tracking plugin for printer parts in OctoPrint.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36802" LastEditorUserId="36802" LastEditDate="2023-11-27T10:01:45.930" LastActivityDate="2023-11-27T13:39:33.560" Title="What is the lifespan of nozzles, and does the nozzle diameter affect the lifespan?" Tags="|creality-ender-3|nozzle|maintenance|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ClosedDate="2023-12-11T18:24:59.190" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21591" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-11-05T18:44:22.803" Score="-1" ViewCount="72" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just bought an Anycubic 3D printer and after a few uses the screen on the printer would say &amp;quot;hotend not heating up&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The heat bed and hotend would not heat up all the way and would cool faster than heating up when I enabled a print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What do I do?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40417" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2023-11-05T22:33:06.650" LastActivityDate="2023-11-06T08:15:31.520" Title="Anycubic printer gives a &quot;hotend not heating up&quot; error" Tags="|hotend|temperature|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21592" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21583" CreationDate="2023-11-05T19:27:24.410" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Many 3D editing programs exist that will accomplish your objective. Tinkercad will do this as well, using the rotate feature, followed by moving it to the build plane and exporting it as an STL as desired.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fusion 360 is available for free personal use, but has a bit of a learning curve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Meshmixer from Autodesk will also rotate in the x/y/z axes and also place the model on the build plane.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You've presented your objective well enough. I suggest to pick a single program and ask specifically how to accomplish that which you are unable to achieve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastActivityDate="2023-11-05T19:27:24.410" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21593" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21584" CreationDate="2023-11-05T19:32:03.290" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Associated with your other question, Meshmixer (and Fusion 360) will perform plane cuts. I feel that Meshmixer will accomplish easier the plane cut you seek, as one simply imports the model, selects the model by clicking on it, then from the tool bar on the left, selects Edit/Plane Cut. Manipulating the plane which appears with respect to translation and rotation is done with gizmos within the main window. Note the dialog box which should be set to re-mesh in order to properly close the cut.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of the gizmos will allow you to select which side of the plane remains after the cut. If you make an error (in most programs), Control-Z will allow you to reverse the last few actions to try again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tinkercad can be used by creating a cube larger than the object, turning it into a &amp;quot;hole&amp;quot; and placing it to cut in the desired manner. Tinkercad will also glitch with too many triangles/facets, which leaves Meshmixer a better option in my opinion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please note that for both questions, you'll find helpful videos with tutorial approaches, to make your objectives that much easier. Too many to link in a practical manner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastActivityDate="2023-11-05T19:32:03.290" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21594" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21591" CreationDate="2023-11-06T08:15:31.520" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As it is brand new, contact the seller.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it wasn't brand new, but years into service, you could troubleshoot why it is not heating up, e.g. loose contact, bad heater element, thermistor faulty, etc..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2023-11-06T08:15:31.520" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21595" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-11-06T09:45:37.423" Score="0" ViewCount="68" Body="&lt;p&gt;Did anyone try to disassemble the official Creality Digital Spool Holder and to make adjustments to access to the data and to trigger measurement, for the purpose of using and showing the remaining spool weight in OctoPrint?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I like the design but you have to manually push, wait a few seconds for the spool to set to 0, then weight the spool and it will only show for a few seconds on the screen, while not being able to communicate that data anywhere.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DbLnsm.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DbLnsm.png&quot; alt=&quot;Creality Digital Spool Holder&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36802" LastEditorUserId="36802" LastEditDate="2023-12-13T09:37:33.200" LastActivityDate="2023-12-13T09:37:33.200" Title="Can the Creality Digital Spool Holder be changed to trigger measurement externally and use the spool weight in OctoPrint?" Tags="|creality-ender-3|octoprint|creality|spool|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21596" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21567" CreationDate="2023-11-06T10:27:22.150" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;After a lot of trial and error I figured it out. I thought it was the result of having very small models but it turns out that &lt;strong&gt;simply changing the Filament Color in Cura Filament Profiles&lt;/strong&gt; also translates to the Thumbnail color. Using a filament profile with the color black apparently doesn't show depth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Below is the thumbnail using the original Cura Thumbnail Script and another Filament Color which resulted in the following transparent PNG Thumbnail:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SRUph.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;SCART cover 3d model generated by original Cura Thumbnail script&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SRUph.png&quot; alt=&quot;SCART cover 3d model generated by original Cura Thumbnail script&quot; title=&quot;SCART cover 3d model generated by original Cura Thumbnail script&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Instead of the original script I also tried using the Cura script &lt;a href=&quot;https://raw.githubusercontent.com/mriscoc/Marlin_Ender3v2/Ender3v2-Released/slicer%20scripts/cura/CreateJPEGThumbnail.py&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Cura JPEG Thumbnail creator&lt;/a&gt; as described at &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/mriscoc/Ender3V2S1/wiki/How-to-generate-a-gcode-preview&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;How to generate a gcode preview&lt;/a&gt; which resulted in the following JPG Thumbnail:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GpT87.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;SCART cover 3d model generated by mriscoc Cura Thumbnail script&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GpT87.png&quot; alt=&quot;SCART cover 3d model generated by mriscoc Cura Thumbnail script&quot; title=&quot;SCART cover 3d model generated by mriscoc Cura Thumbnail script&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36802" LastEditorUserId="36802" LastEditDate="2023-11-08T14:33:28.087" LastActivityDate="2023-11-08T14:33:28.087" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21597" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21617" CreationDate="2023-11-06T10:57:40.443" Score="1" ViewCount="435" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;I recently started using the new &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/mriscoc/Ender3V2S1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;mriscoc firmware for my Creality Ender 3 V2&lt;/a&gt; and it is truly performing above expectations. Even considering that Jyers UI was already a step up from the original Creality firmware&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to understand how the new feature, that seems specific to this firmware, called &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/mriscoc/Ender3V2S1/wiki/Adaptive-Mesh-Leveling-(AML)&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Adaptive Mesh Leveling (AML)&lt;/a&gt; actually works in the firmware.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Below is a screenshot of how the Cura Plugin shows AML options:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TzZEgl.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TzZEgl.png&quot; alt=&quot;Cura Post Processing Plugin - Professional Firmware Support&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have successfully tested AML and I think it's a truly transformative and great way to do fast and more precise bed leveling, only to the relevant print areas on the bed. Also, while probing, the screen shows each probing point in real time being filled in a grid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I noticed that when using &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/mriscoc/Ender3V2S1/wiki/Octoprint#bed-level-visualizer-support&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;the OctoPrint Bed Visualizer instructions&lt;/a&gt; to obtain just the mesh data using the following g-code in the OctoPrint Plugin Settings:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;M155 S30  ; set temperature reporting delay, use a value longer than the time it takes for your leveling command to complete.&#xA;@BEDLEVELVISUALIZER  ; instruct plugin to start recording responses from printer.&#xA;M420 V    ; Get bed leveling mesh data.&#xA;M155 S3   ; set the temperature reporting delay back to a shorter time span.&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My previously generated 5x5 of 9x9 &lt;strong&gt;full bed grid&lt;/strong&gt; is no longer showing, instead the &lt;strong&gt;mini grid&lt;/strong&gt; that was made on the print area is showing, as a full bed. Which makes me wonder, how does the firmware deal with AML? Is it basically tricked into using a subarea of the printer as a virtual 'new bed', the new maximum bed size being only a portion of the full bed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Additionally would there be a way for OctoPrints Bed Visualizer plugin to even know if it deals with the full bed grid or the AML 'mini grid' and if so would it be exactly on which part of the full-bed the mini-grid was generated?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36802" LastEditorUserId="36802" LastEditDate="2023-11-21T12:55:30.367" LastActivityDate="2023-11-21T12:55:30.367" Title="How does Adaptive Mesh Leveling (AML) actually work?" Tags="|marlin|octoprint|automatic-bed-leveling|aml|mriscoc|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21598" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21682" CreationDate="2023-11-06T11:07:55.847" Score="1" ViewCount="56" Body="&lt;p&gt;With the following thought in mind: 'Two eyes are better than one' does additional Thermal Runaway detection in OctoPrint add any benefit?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/AlexVerrico/Octoprint-ThermalRunaway&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;OctoPrint-ThermalRunaway Plugin&lt;/a&gt; seems to add a basic ThermalRunaway detection in OctoPrint. I understand all the smart disclaimers he makes. Security-wise, of course, we should prefer mechanical over firmware, and firmware over external software (OctoPrint). And I think printers that don't have at least any kind of firmware runaway protection should be trashed instantly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, assuming you already have a printer running firmware runaway protection would this OctoPlugin add any value, 'in case firmware runaway protection' somehow fails?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Related&lt;/strong&gt;: Firmware runaway detection as well as the mentioned 'solution' in OctoPrint are based on sending an emergency gcode to the board and performing an emergency shutdown.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wouldn't it be better, more secure if the power was cut from the printer entirely? Eg. instead of an OctoPrint plugin sending an emergency g-code, it sending an power disable command to a smart plug (API)?&lt;br&gt;&lt;sub&gt;Source: &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/AlexVerrico/Octoprint-ThermalRunaway/issues/35&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Octoprint-ThermalRunaway issue&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36802" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2023-11-27T14:44:39.030" LastActivityDate="2023-11-27T14:58:23.513" Title="Does additional thermal runaway in OctoPrint add anything and shouldn't it use a smart plug to kill power instead?" Tags="|firmware|octoprint|thermal-runaway|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21599" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-11-06T11:13:20.350" Score="0" ViewCount="88" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had a misconfiguration in OctoPrint and it kept sending &lt;code&gt;M112&lt;/code&gt; errors to my printer, while my printer was actually fine. As a result, I failed at least two prints, mainly on a manual layer change event. The printer paused, then timed out or something else happened and OctoPrint sent an &lt;code&gt;M112&lt;/code&gt; killing the printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I understand that usually &lt;code&gt;M112&lt;/code&gt; means something is seriously wrong with the printer, however, I'm certain that was not the case here and OctoPrint was incompatible with the firmware configuration I used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In such rare cases, is it possible to disable power, enable power, have a rebooted printed that is not homed anymore or at least the firmware doesn't know it is, and resume the print from a specific layer? Because in case of filament change, the layer where it paused is exactly known. In fact, the nozzle was in park position when it failed, twice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36802" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2023-11-08T09:46:19.493" LastActivityDate="2023-11-08T09:46:19.493" Title="Is it possible to resume a print after an M112 full shutdown?" Tags="|marlin|print-failure|change-filament|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21600" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22976" CreationDate="2023-11-06T11:27:44.370" Score="0" ViewCount="55" Body="&lt;p&gt;Given that, a printer is well-maintained and calibrated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm searching for a particular nozzle accuracy and filament quality test:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;First, is there a specific print test that can be performed to test the quality of the nozzle alone, based on the visual results? Can that be reflected in a score of some kind, a metric reflecting the nozzle quality?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Secondly, is there a specific print test to test the filament quality, &lt;strong&gt;not strength properties&lt;/strong&gt;, solely based on the visual results? Can that be reflected in a filament quality score or metric?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lastly, are there &amp;quot;known good&amp;quot; standards that results could be compared with?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36802" LastEditorUserId="36802" LastEditDate="2024-01-22T09:10:37.940" LastActivityDate="2024-01-22T11:01:55.183" Title="Can a print test be performed to determine nozzle and filament quality?" Tags="|print-quality|filament|nozzle|quality|filament-quality|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21601" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-11-06T13:27:12.270" Score="1" ViewCount="168" Body="&lt;p&gt;Using the official Creality runout sensor, I encountered a few times that the filament entangled around something and got stuck, the printer continuing for several hours (as it didn't run out), printing mid-air aithout filament. Then I got interested in the types of filament sensors that exist such as a runout and jam sensor as those mentioned below:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;The BTT filament sensor&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is supposedly able to detect both runout and jamming, which I &lt;strong&gt;assume&lt;/strong&gt; uses the concept of a &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rotary_encoder&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;rotary encoder&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7x0m8s.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7x0m8s.png&quot; alt=&quot;BTT sensor&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;DIY 'super simple filament jam sensor'&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.printables.com/model/58207-super-simple-filament-jam-and-presence-sensor&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;printables.com&lt;/a&gt;, which I &lt;strong&gt;assume&lt;/strong&gt; uses simple physics, although it's unclear how this works exactly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tWwCls.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tWwCls.png&quot; alt=&quot;Super simple filament jam and presence sensor.&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;DIY Optical Filament Sensor&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This amazing-looking optical filament sensor from &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3400544&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;thingiverse.com&lt;/a&gt; uses a rotary encoder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SBUFms.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SBUFms.png&quot; alt=&quot;optical filament sensor&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Question&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I guess that a rotary encoder would be best for this purpose because it can detect actual moving filament and potentially even exactly at which speed it is moving. However, how would it account for filament retraction or paused prints (waiting for filament color change)? Is this usually done in firmware or external control software such as OctoPrint?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would like to understand: What different types of detection mechanisms for filament jam detection exist, and how do they work exactly? Also, which is considered most reliable and why?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36802" LastEditorUserId="36802" LastEditDate="2023-12-27T11:49:18.907" LastActivityDate="2023-12-27T13:38:12.720" Title="Which detection mechanisms can a filament sensor use?" Tags="|printer-building|filament-jam|filament-sensor|sensors|runout-sensor|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21603" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21605" CreationDate="2023-11-07T06:23:00.757" Score="3" ViewCount="467" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is considered a 'good' layer height for the first layer? Should it be relatively smaller than the other layers, or should it be considered relative to the nozzle diameter? Can the community suggest an appropriate layer height for the first layer with justification?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40430" LastEditorUserId="36802" LastEditDate="2023-11-07T09:01:16.967" LastActivityDate="2023-11-10T13:20:40.513" Title="What is an appropriate layer size for the first layer?" Tags="|print-quality|layer-height|layer|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21604" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="970" CreationDate="2023-11-07T09:08:36.233" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Added for reference.&lt;/em&gt; To my understanding, especially if you run multiple identical printers, having the same belt tension on all of them is essential to getting accurate and consistent results. The effects of overly loose or overly tight belts have been demonstrated in a &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/_m9TTzEh5xM?si=W4xKfKc_XZGPQWk6&amp;amp;t=145&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;YouTube video by CHEP&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As mentioned in the comments above, a frequency analyser on a smartphone can be used, a web-based analyser is available at &lt;a href=&quot;https://belt.connect.prusa3d.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;belt.connect.prusa3d.com&lt;/a&gt;. Additionally, the article &lt;a href=&quot;https://help.prusa3d.com/article/adjusting-belt-tension-mk3-mk3s-mk3s-mk4_112380&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Adjusting belt tension (MK3/MK3S/MK3S+/MK4)&lt;/a&gt; explains the concepts and steps that can be taken for belt tensioning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GFhnvm.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Photo of the web-based Prusa Belt (Beta) frequency analyser on a smartphone&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GFhnvm.png&quot; alt=&quot;Photo of the web-based Prusa Belt (Beta) frequency analyser on a smartphone&quot; title=&quot;Photo of the web-based Prusa Belt (Beta) frequency analyser on a smartphone&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, a simple belt tension measurement tool called &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.printables.com/model/46639-tension-meter-for-the-gt2-belts-of-i3-mk3s-or-prus&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Tension Meter for the GT2 belts of i3 MK3S+ or Prusa MINI+&lt;/a&gt; that can easily be printed has been published by Prusament.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LKAhxm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Tension Meter for the GT2 belts of i3 MK3S+ or Prusa MINI+&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LKAhxm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Tension Meter for the GT2 belts of i3 MK3S+ or Prusa MINI+&quot; title=&quot;Tension Meter for the GT2 belts of i3 MK3S+ or Prusa MINI+&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a similar printable model called &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4731435&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;True Open source tension meter for GT2 belts&lt;/a&gt; by ChipCE.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/05T5nm.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;True Open source tension meter for GT2 belts&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/05T5nm.png&quot; alt=&quot;True Open source tension meter for GT2 belts&quot; title=&quot;True Open source tension meter for GT2 belts&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36802" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2023-11-07T14:46:12.457" LastActivityDate="2023-11-07T14:46:12.457" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21605" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21603" CreationDate="2023-11-07T12:09:51.613" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As most answers here: &amp;quot;That depends on your preference and needs&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you prioritize bed adhesion you might want to compensate for an uneven bed surface/ level and maximize the layer height, which is around 60/75% of your nozzle width. (typical .3mm layer height for .4 nozzles). Couple this with a 200% initial layer width for optimum stickyness.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you prioritize for quality you might just use the same layer height as the other layers, although the layer height difference is hardly ever noticeable.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can't think of a reason to make the first layer height lower than the other layers. It would just make the bed leveling more difficult and add no detail.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4708" LastActivityDate="2023-11-07T12:09:51.613" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21606" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21603" CreationDate="2023-11-07T12:16:52.243" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It &lt;strong&gt;all&lt;/strong&gt; depends on the bed flatness you can ensure. Do you have a super flat bed? Then you can use the first layer identical to other layers. You don't trust or you can't guarantee flatness? then increase the first layer thickness up to 25%.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keep in mind that &amp;quot;bed flatness&amp;quot; depends on three elements:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;intrinsic flatness (milled aluminum tooling plate or glass bed, vs rolled and wavy aluminum plate?)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;rigidity of the X and (for coreXY) Y rails/rods plus the weight of the print head (do you have thin rods or a heavy print head, which gets closer to the bed when in the center? or stiff rails and lightweight head which bends only by few microns?)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;availability and accuracy of the bed levelling (are you doing bed levelling? It can compensate for the previous effects if properly done).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on the three factors you may need to print a thicker first layer to ensure that the printed layer is never too thin or too thick, or you may ignore the issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://ellis3dp.com/Print-Tuning-Guide/articles/first_layer_squish.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Ellis' Print Tuning Guide: First Layer Squish&lt;/a&gt; may help as well, &lt;strong&gt;after&lt;/strong&gt; you decide which first layer thickness to use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2338" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2023-11-07T14:40:27.567" LastActivityDate="2023-11-07T14:40:27.567" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21607" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21563" CreationDate="2023-11-07T12:17:05.443" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cura already stores all the slicer settings in the G-code file as comments.&#xA;Install a G-code file viewer or file editor plugin in OctoPrint to view the used slicer settings for that specific G-code in OctoPrint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;https://plugins.octoprint.org/plugins/GcodeEditor/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;GcodeEditor plugin&lt;/a&gt; has the ability to view the actual G-code.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4708" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2023-11-08T15:04:39.983" LastActivityDate="2023-11-08T15:04:39.983" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21608" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20589" CreationDate="2023-11-07T15:35:24.367" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know this is an old post, but I Stumbled into this while researching new nozzles for my dual extruder:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.printyourmind3d.ca/blogs/tutorials/replacing-the-hot-end-on-your-lulzbot-taz-printer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.printyourmind3d.ca/blogs/tutorials/replacing-the-hot-end-on-your-lulzbot-taz-printer&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This may do what you need.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40435" LastActivityDate="2023-11-07T15:35:24.367" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21612" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21381" CreationDate="2023-11-10T07:46:38.093" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is most probably a power issue, no power to the display is an important hint. Note that if the power supply unit (PSU) shows a green LED, it doesn't imply that the PSU is working.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Trigorilla board can still be found in various online shops, this isn't an uncommon board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Furthermore, you should look into the fuses and measure them through with a multimeter; although these are recoverable fuses according to the &lt;a href=&quot;https://printers-3d.co/products/anycubic-motherboard-3d-printer-trigorilla-main-board-compatible-mega-2560-ramps1-4-4-layers-pcb-controller-board-for-reprap&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;documenttion&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Voltage input at super wide range, short-circuit protection:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;TriGorilla adopts DC - DC step-down scheme design and Recoverable fuse for short-circuit protection, improving the MEGA2560 board serious heating problem,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Allowing any power supply from 10 V-30 V.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are reported issues with the fuses being blown and not recovering.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In order to figure out what the problem is you need to do some troubleshooting. Measure the fuses (note that in case the fuses are unrecoverably blown, you need to find out why; as replacing them without fixing the short will blow them again), use a different power supply, or test the power supply on a different device where several amps are drwan, e.g. directly heat the heated bed from the PSU for a short while.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2023-11-10T12:08:46.673" LastActivityDate="2023-11-10T12:08:46.673" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21613" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21413" CreationDate="2023-11-10T12:58:53.180" Score="0" Body="&lt;h2&gt;spring actuated slider mounted&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your problem is basically, that the camera will stick out of the allowable space in some configurations. Such is usually due to the mounting point of the camera holder forcing a position of the components in relation to the &lt;em&gt;backend&lt;/em&gt; of the camera.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This can be solved by mounting the components on some kind of sliding gantry and actuating it upwards with a spring. This will automatically align the camera position to the most lipside place the camera standout allows by pressing the lens protector against the lid. For adjustability of the spring pressure, absolute top position and easy swapping of springs (if needed), a grub screw could be used to adjust the position of the holder to the spring's maximum length - green in the image. By choosing a proper spring and having it at or even in the gantry, you can use somewhat standard parts, like the springs from pens, and don't need to work in as much space  &lt;em&gt;under&lt;/em&gt; the camera but instead can use the more likely more ample space outside of the camera's moving box. Also, the gantry base plate could mount all other components.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For maximum constrained movement and least strain on the parts, it would be advisable to use a pair of guide rails on two opposing sides of the camera plate, and place the springs either on the center of the gantry or use a pair on either side of it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wmgQj.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wmgQj.png&quot; alt=&quot;Dovetail Gantry with one compression spring&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This can be simplified with the sensor chosen by mounting the whole board on small spring standoffs that allow them to be compressed by the maximum difference, but such a setup might tilt the camera if no guiding is included. That could be facilitated by adding an extension plate bottom or top of the sensor which constrains the tilt of the sensor board. It might be required to shorten springs quite a lot for this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1kKjo.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1kKjo.png&quot; alt=&quot;Simplified: Springs as Standoff&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;mounting point on the camera&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Currently, you explain to us, that you hold the camera on the mounting plate of the optical sensor. However, you also could mount the camera by the lens holder. As an Upside, the camera will always be at the same position relative to the lid. As a downside, you will need to account for the whole board of the optical sensor to lift with the lid and if you fix the barrel even to turn the whole board of the optical sensor to adjust focus length. Both in turn will move the whole cabling too - you might need to unplug and re-plug it for some adjustments. Also, adding or removing filters will be more complicated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vxAbc.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vxAbc.png&quot; alt=&quot;A mounting on the Camera lens' barrel&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2023-11-10T13:28:50.270" LastActivityDate="2023-11-10T13:28:50.270" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21614" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21603" CreationDate="2023-11-10T13:20:40.513" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the first layer is so thin the bed clearly shows through, your extruder is skipping steps unable to push enough filament, or the nozzle drags over the bed surface, you're too low.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the cross-section profile of the extruded thread of filament is round, first layer of a print results in separate threads of filament with gaps in between or parts bulging, detached from the bed, filament doesn't form clear sharp corners where it turns 90 degrees, or becomes detached, you're too high.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The right height is when the filament is smeared somewhat flat, but still with noticeable thickness. And considering inaccuracy of printer rails, bed, drive trains, achieving such profile throughout the entire bed surface, never getting into 'too thin' or 'too thick' is what you strive for. Whether it's 0.07 or 0.13mm, doesn't really matter, what matters is it doesn't go below or above the range at any point of the bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A typical 0.4mm nozzle with 0.1mm first layer height is most likely to achieve this, but when in doubt, too thin will only result in dimensional inaccuracy and thinner bottom; too high will result in poor adhesion and may end up with the whole print detaching from the bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2206" LastActivityDate="2023-11-10T13:20:40.513" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21615" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21618" CreationDate="2023-11-10T18:59:43.917" Score="0" ViewCount="76" Body="&lt;p&gt;I updated firmware on my Ender3 v2. Previously I used to have precompiled 2.0.7. Now I compiled 2.0.9 from source. Everything seems to work fine except of Move menu. Previously, I pushed the button to select axis in menu, rotated the button to set move value, and pushed again to confirm and only after confirm my head started to move. Using new firmware, I push the button to select axis, rotate the button - and head starts moving during rotation, not waiting until I push button to confirm move.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could anyone help me out, which config parameter is responsible for this behavior? Or was it changed inside firmware?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40469" LastActivityDate="2023-11-11T05:10:03.190" Title="Ender3 v2 on Marlin moves head while rotating button" Tags="|creality-ender-3|marlin|firmware|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21616" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21512" CreationDate="2023-11-10T19:35:18.873" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Thanks to some help from an expert this issue is resolved. The culprit was crosstalk between the X motor cable and the sense line of the Y endstop. Re-routing cables to separate the two has solved the problem.&#xA;Marlin monitors the endstop switches while printing unless inhibited by an option in the firmware; default is monitoring enabled. If a false low is detected during a move that move is stopped, resulting in a layer shift&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="33030" LastActivityDate="2023-11-10T19:35:18.873" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21617" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21597" CreationDate="2023-11-11T00:49:30.143" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Bed Visualizer shows the mesh leveling area regardless of the bed size, that is good because it provides a good level of detail if the mesh area is very small compared to the bed size.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But it could be a useful addition if displaying the mesh area over set to the bed size were possible through a configurable option.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36724" LastEditorUserId="36724" LastEditDate="2023-11-11T00:52:04.433" LastActivityDate="2023-11-11T00:52:04.433" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21618" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21615" CreationDate="2023-11-11T01:34:12.890" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Depending on the firmware you may have the option to disable live motion. Marlin has different UI for the Ender3V2 (DWIN type display), which you can choose in the configuration.h file just after the line:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;// Ender-3 v2 OEM display. A DWIN display with Rotary Encoder.&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can enable the &lt;strong&gt;DWIN_LCD_PROUI&lt;/strong&gt; to get the option to desactive live motion&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;//#define DWIN_CREALITY_LCD           // Creality UI&#xA;#define DWIN_LCD_PROUI              // Pro UI by MRiscoC&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also look for other Marlin forks with more implemented features, for example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/27xm6.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/27xm6.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Move axis menu&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36724" LastEditorUserId="36724" LastEditDate="2023-11-11T05:10:03.190" LastActivityDate="2023-11-11T05:10:03.190" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21619" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19320" CreationDate="2023-11-11T11:03:09.067" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I came across this thread as I was facing the exact same issue. I am also using 3D Builder to repair my STLs before 3D printing them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The previous answers were however not sufficient (for me) so I went on a trial-and-error spree to determine what was happening, I think I found the answer! (hope that you can still use it!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An STL file has certain characteristics regarding its location (origin point): X, Y, Z and rotational for the same axes. When you import one or multiple STL files in the 3D builder, it keeps all of these origin points except for the z axis, it automatically places the model/models on the bed so that the lowest point in your (combined) model has a point of Z = 0.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To ensure that all your parts have the same &amp;quot;origin point&amp;quot; you should import the model all at once and then remove all parts except for one. Then, auto-repair it and save it under a certain name.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example: You have a combined file consisting of three parts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Import parts 1-3 → remove parts 2 and 3 → repair remaining part 1 → save as part 1&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Import parts 1-3 → remove parts 1 and 3 → repair remaining part 2 → save as part 2&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Import parts 1-3 → remove parts 1 and 2 → repair remaining part 3 → save as part 3&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You now have a repaired model for all parts and their origin points should all be the same!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40473" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2023-11-11T20:57:26.793" LastActivityDate="2023-11-11T20:57:26.793" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21620" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21621" CreationDate="2023-11-11T17:51:30.300" Score="2" ViewCount="149" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am really new to 3D printing. I started with downloaded stuff about 2 months ago and now I am starting to do my own &amp;quot;easy&amp;quot; things.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While looking at tutorials I heard one of them talking about doing a chaffer of a specific size/height because he had a 0.40 mm Nozzle (the same as the one I have with an Anycubic Vyper). This got me thinking about if I should also take into consideration my Nozzle size for when I try to design something.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, should I think about multiples of 0.40 mm when deciding overall lengths or heights?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I need to create space between 2 pieces, or joint pieces, should I always have to leave a multiple of 0.40 mm space between those pieces?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have tried to find out info about this but I just found info about the importance of the Nozzle size at the time of print, but not at design time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am using Fusion 360 if that info is needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40476" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2023-11-11T19:03:45.993" LastActivityDate="2023-11-17T13:30:07.097" Title="Does one has to take into consideration the nozzle diameter while designing something that will be 3D printed?" Tags="|3d-design|nozzle|fusion360|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21621" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21620" CreationDate="2023-11-11T18:06:28.087" Score="1" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Nozzle size isn't what matters most time - Line width is&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On many printers, it is actually common to print with a line width &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6965/why-is-it-conventional-to-set-line-width-nozzle-diameter&quot;&gt;larger than the nozzle size&lt;/a&gt;. This is typical for many i3 style machines, such as Prusa I3 or Ender3. For a 0.4 mm nozzle on those two, the standard line width in Prusaslicer is set to 0.45 mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On Ultimaker Machines, the default in several slicers on the other hand is nozzle size to slightly lower (0.4 or 0.38 mm).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In any way, the factor you should remember here is the &lt;strong&gt;line width&lt;/strong&gt; set in your slicer, which is dependent on the nozzle diameter. However, that is not the nozzle diameter itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;When to use line width in designing&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is generally not advisable to design parts that are less than one wall thick. The slicer will usually drop those sections or, if not outright ignoring those sections, will result in considerable print artifacts. So, as a rule of thumb, the &lt;strong&gt;line width is the &lt;em&gt;minimum&lt;/em&gt; thickness you should design for.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you try to create sturdy walls, such as for containers, using an exact multiple of that line width is very common, which in turn creates very fast layers: two perimeters of 0.45 mm come out as a 0.9 mm wall, three to 1.35 mm, and so on. But that all depends on &lt;strong&gt;your&lt;/strong&gt; line width.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;When to ignore line width&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your item isn't structural in any way, forget anything about line width. Just design your aesthetic parts, and only in the end make sure that thin sections are at least one line width thick - by tossing your item into the slicer, check which sections are ignored, then thickening just those areas till you are happy with the approximation of the slicer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2023-11-17T13:30:07.097" LastActivityDate="2023-11-17T13:30:07.097" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21622" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-11-12T06:26:16.387" Score="-1" ViewCount="23" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am currently working on a project that uses multiple 3D models which is to be printed, with a variety of 3D printers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;May I know how should I measure the Filament density of a particular filament. Currently, I am attempting to use the Mass/Volume formula, and am simply measuring the mass by weighing the filament. However, how do I measure the &lt;strong&gt;volume&lt;/strong&gt;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My second query is related to the &lt;strong&gt;'cost'&lt;/strong&gt; section in PrusaSlicer. I was told to input a specific value, nonetheless, I do not comprehend what to input.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, for the printing, what should be an appropriate &lt;strong&gt;Idle Temperature&lt;/strong&gt;; Nozzle temperature for &lt;strong&gt;1st&lt;/strong&gt; and &lt;strong&gt;other&lt;/strong&gt; layers, as well as the bed temperatures with the same parameters(1st layer and other layers).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your expertise and explanation would greatly benefit me!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40430" LastActivityDate="2023-11-17T13:05:58.280" Title="Filament settings determination" Tags="|filament|filament-quality|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21623" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21570" CreationDate="2023-11-12T07:12:02.510" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It indeed &lt;em&gt;is&lt;/em&gt; possible to print a plastic straw via 3D printing, however it requires a considerable amount of precision and supports during 3D printing, modelling and slicing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is because as the 3D printers build the plastic straw layer-after-layer, the circular structure could result in instabilities and therefore requires some time to condense.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Overall, these structures are possible to be 3D printed but not as easy as it seems, and way more expensive to print as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40430" LastActivityDate="2023-11-12T07:12:02.510" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21624" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21620" CreationDate="2023-11-12T10:57:25.123" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It would depend on what you are printing and the tolerances that you require.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, if you are producing engineering parts, and are a skilled designer, then you should take the nozzle size and layer height into consideration. Though the order of wall printing will probably be of more interest to you (If you print the inner walls first then the outer walls might bulge outwards slightly, and vice versa).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you ware making garage kit style sculptures and busts, then you don't really need to think about the nozzle at all. Your slicing software will automatically adjust the print to fit what is possible and the slight differences won't make much of a difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're trying to print warhammer size figures, then yes you do need to take the nozzle width into consideration as it will effect the small details that you print. Which is why people mostly choose resin printers for this scale.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're only an average skill designer making items that don't require extremely delicate details or high tolerances for practical parts, then don't really need to even think about your nozzle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have an Ender 5 that's still using the 0.4 mm nozzle that it shipped with quite happily.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;TLDR&lt;/strong&gt;: If you're new to 3D printing and aren't trying to print Warhammer figures or engineering parts, you can largely forget about your nozzle. You won't notice the difference until you're much more skilled at modelling and are looking to do resin quality tollerances.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="29097" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2023-11-12T13:43:06.667" LastActivityDate="2023-11-12T13:43:06.667" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21625" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-11-12T11:08:14.720" Score="2" ViewCount="47" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an Elegoo Saturn with a factory original built plate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The plate was improperly cleaned and then left out. Causing a thin but uneven layer of cured resin to form on one corner. This effectively makes it impossible to level as one corner will always be a fraction of a MM out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the best way to clean the resin off wile maintaining the surface?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="29097" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2023-11-12T12:01:07.530" LastActivityDate="2023-11-17T20:59:55.057" Title="How should I restore an old build plate?" Tags="|resin|repair|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21626" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21625" CreationDate="2023-11-12T12:00:57.917" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Removal of cured resin only works in mechanical ways, as the chemicals that can remove it are very aggressive and will eat at the base plate. Using a scraper or very sharp chisel to very carefully chip off the resin without scratching the surface is the &lt;em&gt;standard&lt;/em&gt; solution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you damage the build plate, it can be re-ground, if you have food intact reference surfaces using a surface grinder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2023-11-17T20:59:55.057" LastActivityDate="2023-11-17T20:59:55.057" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21627" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-11-13T08:23:39.590" Score="1" ViewCount="123" Body="&lt;p&gt;My Ender 3 v3 SE printer is still really new so I understand the info is limited. I'm trying to build a version of the latest Marlin FW that will work I've already redefined the pins that are different however &lt;code&gt;PA4 CLK&lt;/code&gt; and &lt;code&gt;PC6 SDO&lt;/code&gt; are undefined currently which is for the strain gauge or whatever they're using is a 4-wire sensor. I would imagine this could work as a second Z probe &lt;code&gt;Z1_PROBE&lt;/code&gt; then take the difference between the Z probes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How do I define the sensor pin?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is it baked in already to calculate the Z-offset between two probes?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40492" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2023-11-13T15:02:51.170" LastActivityDate="2023-11-13T15:02:51.170" Title="Does Marlin already have a way to define auto Z-offset strain gauge?" Tags="|creality-ender-3|marlin|z-probe|print-axis-offset|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21628" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-11-13T12:44:26.377" Score="0" ViewCount="192" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I swapped the standard Ender 3 S1 Pro 0.4 mm nozzle to a Bondtech CHT 0.4 mm nozzle to increase my flow rate, but I am a newb and not really sure what to do to start dialing this in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have not been able to get any adherence to my bed since making the nozzle change. I have not as of yet changed my Cura / Sonic Pad settings from the standard 0.4 mm nozzle, but before moving to the CHT I was printing PLA fine, so I am confident it's dialing in my settings for this nozzle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any links or info would be a great help so I can figure out where to start. Even better if anyone has made this change a profile would be killer! I'm just starting to research this and teach myself, but would really appreciate any and all assistance. Not including my settings, as I do not think my wrong stuff will help, but I can upload them in the morning if people feel it is helpful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40498" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2023-11-13T15:00:13.013" LastActivityDate="2023-11-13T15:00:13.013" Title="Ender 3 s1 Pro, Cura, and Bondtech CHT 0.4 mm nozzle" Tags="|creality-ender-3|ultimaker-cura|extrusion|klipper|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21629" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21622" CreationDate="2023-11-13T14:37:19.183" Score="1" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Density&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Filament has a thickness and length. with those, you can treat it as a long cylinder. The volume of a cylinder is &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$$V=l\times \pi \left( \frac d 2 \right)^2$$&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Measure a length of the filament, measure the thickness, weigh it, and plug in the values.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$$\rho=\frac m V$$&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The density of filaments can also be grabbed from the MSDS (Material Safty Data Sheet). &lt;a href=&quot;https://bitfab.io/blog/3d-printing-materials-densities/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;A list of common densities:&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;div class=&quot;s-table-container&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;table class=&quot;s-table&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;thead&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;th&gt;Filament&lt;/th&gt;&#xA;&lt;th&gt;Density&lt;/th&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;/thead&gt;&#xA;&lt;tbody&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;PLA&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$1.24 - 1.25 \frac {\pu g} {\pu{cm^3}}$&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;ABS&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$1.04 \frac {\pu g} {\pu{cm^3}}$&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;PETG&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$1.27 \frac {\pu g} {\pu{cm^3}}$&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;TPU&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$1.21 \frac {\pu g} {\pu{cm^3}}$&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tbody&gt;&#xA;&lt;/table&gt;&#xA;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;h2&gt;Cost&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The cost entry depends on the unit: It can be cost per kilogram &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$C_\pu{kg}$&lt;/span&gt; or cost per meter &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$C_\pu{m}$&lt;/span&gt;. In both cases, the density and filament diameter can be used to turn one into the other: &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$$C_\pu{m}=C_\pu{kg}\times \frac {\pi \left( \frac d 2 \right)^2}{\rho}$$&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Idle Temperature&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a filament dependent temperature, and also called Standby temperature. It should be &lt;strong&gt;lower&lt;/strong&gt; than the printing temperature by quite a bit to prevent oozing, and shouldn't be used too much in the first place, as it is a powerhungry operation. It can be used for paus operations in which you insert things into the print, to speed up resuming print, but otherwise... there's little use for it on a single extruder machine unless you swap build plates. On a multi-extruder machine, Idle-temp can speed up printing a lot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Typically, the idle temperature in a multi-extruder machine is &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$\pu{20 - 50 °C}$&lt;/span&gt; lower than the print temperature, depending on preferences and material, and set to such a point that the nozzle does not ooze.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;1st Layer temperature&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Generally, the 1st layer is printed at exactly the same print temperature as the rest. However, printing at an elevated temperatures can help solving a couple adhesion problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Print and bed temperature&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is material dependent. Look up your filament manufacturer's recommendations for both print and bed temperature and run a couple tests. There are &lt;a href=&quot;https://all3dp.com/2/the-best-printing-temperature-for-different-filaments/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;common ranges&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;div class=&quot;s-table-container&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;table class=&quot;s-table&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;thead&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;th&gt;Filament&lt;/th&gt;&#xA;&lt;th&gt;Nozzle&lt;/th&gt;&#xA;&lt;th&gt;Bed&lt;/th&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;/thead&gt;&#xA;&lt;tbody&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;PLA&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$\pu{180-220 °C}$&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$\pu{20-60 °C}$&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;ABS&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$\pu{210-260 °C}$&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$\pu{90-110 °C}$&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;PETG&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$\pu{220-250 °C}$&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$\pu{50-80 °C}$&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;TPU&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$\pu{210-230 °C}$&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$\pu{30-60 °C}$&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tbody&gt;&#xA;&lt;/table&gt;&#xA;&lt;/div&gt;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="2338" LastEditDate="2023-11-17T13:05:58.280" LastActivityDate="2023-11-17T13:05:58.280" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21631" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21637" CreationDate="2023-11-13T18:55:40.017" Score="1" ViewCount="216" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 3D printer (Artillery Genius Pro) with a 24 V motherboard. I want to connect this motherboard a 12 V laser engraver module. If my motherboard was 12 V (with 12 V, GND, and PWM pins), I believe I could do it. In that case, I would connect 12 V, GND, and PWM of the laser module to 12 V, GND and Blower Fan (as PWM) of the motherboard. But my 3D printer has a 24 V board. How can I connect my 12 V laser module to my 24 V motherboard?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your guidance in this direction will be highly appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="38461" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2023-11-16T11:50:00.547" LastActivityDate="2023-11-17T14:35:33.607" Title="Connecting 12 V Laser Module to 24 V Control Board" Tags="|electronics|laser|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21632" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10551" CreationDate="2023-11-14T00:13:37.880" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Set up your printer to be controlled by an outside source via USB or other protocol. Now set up a PC / a Pi / a Beaglebone / an Arduino / etc ... to feed GCode to your printer from MicroSD. I personally like the &amp;quot;an Arduino&amp;quot; option here because it's super-low-power and gives you tons of control over what you're doing... so I'll continue along the Arduino vein here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Power your Arduino from a battery-backed wallwart. That'll give it plenty of guts to hurriedly write a record to a special file on MicroSD maintained for that express purpose. Or heck, write that record to EEPROM, which should be good for a hundred thousand power outages.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next, rig up something that permits your Arduino to sense a complete power failure at the wall. You'll want a current transformer, perhaps, and little to no filtering so you get notified within 1/50 or 1/60 of a second when you detect a missing power excursion. Your Arduino should stop sending and record that record when it detects a power drop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At power-up, your Arduino should detect that it wrote a power-off record and offer to resume pumping GCode to your printer after it sends the appropriate warm-up sequence to the printer. It should offer you the option of bagging the print or trying a resume. If you try the resume, it should seek() to the file position corresponding to the first GCode command after the last Z increment that was not a &amp;quot;Z hop&amp;quot;. It should then step through all the G1 commands since that position, but traverse only, do not extrude, until it reaches the last command it had sent. It cannot know where along that G1 the printer paused, so it should repeat that one G1 line with extrusion active. You should get exactly one partially extra-fat line of filament at that one point in your print, but otherwise the stitching should be very good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Provided, of course, that you've been ensuring exceptional print adhesion. The whole nine. Don't risk poor adhesion with a stunt like this, give yourself good adhesion. Really, your print should not pop off the build surface upon cooling. If it does, then you aren't doing enough to keep it there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25956" LastEditorUserId="25956" LastEditDate="2023-11-15T00:14:19.340" LastActivityDate="2023-11-15T00:14:19.340" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21633" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21635" CreationDate="2023-11-15T11:45:25.660" Score="1" ViewCount="137" Body="&lt;p&gt;Recently added a probe to my Anet A8 for auto bed levelling, calculations have been added based on position of probe to hotend as required. I'm using Marlin 1.1.9.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I go into 'Prepare' in the printer settings to select auto home, it doesn't centre on the bed, seems to go to the back right. I presume this should be to the centre of the bed? I can't find where to change this in the config. Note the LCD screen shows X:153, Y:114. Config below.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;//============================== Endstop Settings ===========================&#xA;&#xA;// @section homing&#xA;&#xA;// Specify here all the endstop connectors that are connected to any endstop or probe.&#xA;// Almost all printers will be using one per axis. Probes will use one or more of the&#xA;// extra connectors. Leave undefined any used for non-endstop and non-probe purposes.&#xA;#define USE_XMIN_PLUG&#xA;#define USE_YMIN_PLUG&#xA;#define USE_ZMIN_PLUG&#xA;//#define USE_XMAX_PLUG&#xA;//#define USE_YMAX_PLUG&#xA;//#define USE_ZMAX_PLUG&#xA;&#xA;// Enable pullup for all endstops to prevent a floating state&#xA;#define ENDSTOPPULLUPS&#xA;#if DISABLED(ENDSTOPPULLUPS)&#xA;  // Disable ENDSTOPPULLUPS to set pullups individually&#xA;  //#define ENDSTOPPULLUP_XMAX&#xA;  //#define ENDSTOPPULLUP_YMAX&#xA;  //#define ENDSTOPPULLUP_ZMAX&#xA;  //#define ENDSTOPPULLUP_XMIN&#xA;  //#define ENDSTOPPULLUP_YMIN&#xA;  //#define ENDSTOPPULLUP_ZMIN&#xA;  //#define ENDSTOPPULLUP_ZMIN_PROBE&#xA;#endif&#xA;&#xA;// Mechanical endstop with COM to ground and NC to Signal uses &amp;quot;false&amp;quot; here (most common setup).&#xA;#define X_MIN_ENDSTOP_INVERTING true  // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.&#xA;#define Y_MIN_ENDSTOP_INVERTING true  // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.&#xA;#define Z_MIN_ENDSTOP_INVERTING true  // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.&#xA;#define X_MAX_ENDSTOP_INVERTING false // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.&#xA;#define Y_MAX_ENDSTOP_INVERTING false // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.&#xA;#define Z_MAX_ENDSTOP_INVERTING false // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.&#xA;#define Z_MIN_PROBE_ENDSTOP_INVERTING true  // set to true to invert the logic of the probe.&#xA;&#xA;// Enable this feature if all enabled endstop pins are interrupt-capable.&#xA;// This will remove the need to poll the interrupt pins, saving many CPU cycles.&#xA;//#define ENDSTOP_INTERRUPTS_FEATURE&#xA;&#xA;/**&#xA; * Endstop Noise Filter&#xA; *&#xA; * Enable this option if endstops falsely trigger due to noise.&#xA; * NOTE: Enabling this feature means adds an error of +/-0.2mm, so homing&#xA; * will end up at a slightly different position on each G28. This will also&#xA; * reduce accuracy of some bed probes.&#xA; * For mechanical switches, the better approach to reduce noise is to install&#xA; * a 100 nanofarads ceramic capacitor in parallel with the switch, making it&#xA; * essentially noise-proof without sacrificing accuracy.&#xA; * This option also increases MCU load when endstops or the probe are enabled.&#xA; * So this is not recommended. USE AT YOUR OWN RISK.&#xA; * (This feature is not required for common micro-switches mounted on PCBs&#xA; * based on the Makerbot design, since they already include the 100nF capacitor.)&#xA; */&#xA;//#define ENDSTOP_NOISE_FILTER&#xA;&#xA;//=============================================================================&#xA;//============================== Movement Settings ============================&#xA;//=============================================================================&#xA;// @section motion&#xA;&#xA;/**&#xA; * Default Settings&#xA; *&#xA; * These settings can be reset by M502&#xA; *&#xA; * Note that if EEPROM is enabled, saved values will override these.&#xA; */&#xA;&#xA;/**&#xA; * With this option each E stepper can have its own factors for the&#xA; * following movement settings. If fewer factors are given than the&#xA; * total number of extruders, the last value applies to the rest.&#xA; */&#xA;//#define DISTINCT_E_FACTORS&#xA;&#xA;/**&#xA; * Default Axis Steps Per Unit (steps/mm)&#xA; * Override with M92&#xA; *                                      X, Y, Z, E0 [, E1[, E2[, E3[, E4]]]]&#xA; */&#xA;#define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT   { 100, 100, 400, 100 }&#xA;&#xA;/**&#xA; * Default Max Feed Rate (mm/s)&#xA; * Override with M203&#xA; *                                      X, Y, Z, E0 [, E1[, E2[, E3[, E4]]]]&#xA; */&#xA;#define DEFAULT_MAX_FEEDRATE          { 400, 400, 8, 50 }&#xA;&#xA;/**&#xA; * Default Max Acceleration (change/s) change = mm/s&#xA; * (Maximum start speed for accelerated moves)&#xA; * Override with M201&#xA; *                                      X, Y, Z, E0 [, E1[, E2[, E3[, E4]]]]&#xA; */&#xA;#define DEFAULT_MAX_ACCELERATION      { 2000, 2000, 100, 10000 }&#xA;&#xA;/**&#xA; * Default Acceleration (change/s) change = mm/s&#xA; * Override with M204&#xA; *&#xA; *   M204 P    Acceleration&#xA; *   M204 R    Retract Acceleration&#xA; *   M204 T    Travel Acceleration&#xA; */&#xA;#define DEFAULT_ACCELERATION          400     // X, Y, Z and E acceleration for printing moves&#xA;#define DEFAULT_RETRACT_ACCELERATION  1000    // E acceleration for retracts&#xA;#define DEFAULT_TRAVEL_ACCELERATION   1000    // X, Y, Z acceleration for travel (non printing) moves&#xA;&#xA;/**&#xA; * Default Jerk (mm/s)&#xA; * Override with M205 X Y Z E&#xA; *&#xA; * &amp;quot;Jerk&amp;quot; specifies the minimum speed change that requires acceleration.&#xA; * When changing speed and direction, if the difference is less than the&#xA; * value set here, it may happen instantaneously.&#xA; */&#xA;#define DEFAULT_XJERK                 10.0&#xA;#define DEFAULT_YJERK                 10.0&#xA;#define DEFAULT_ZJERK                  0.3&#xA;#define DEFAULT_EJERK                  5.0&#xA;&#xA;/**&#xA; * S-Curve Acceleration&#xA; *&#xA; * This option eliminates vibration during printing by fitting a BÃ©zier&#xA; * curve to move acceleration, producing much smoother direction changes.&#xA; *&#xA; * See https://github.com/synthetos/TinyG/wiki/Jerk-Controlled-Motion-Explained&#xA; */&#xA;//#define S_CURVE_ACCELERATION&#xA;&#xA;//===========================================================================&#xA;//============================= Z Probe Options =============================&#xA;//===========================================================================&#xA;// @section probes&#xA;&#xA;//&#xA;// See http://marlinfw.org/docs/configuration/probes.html&#xA;//&#xA;&#xA;/**&#xA; * Z_MIN_PROBE_USES_Z_MIN_ENDSTOP_PIN&#xA; *&#xA; * Enable this option for a probe connected to the Z Min endstop pin.&#xA; */&#xA;#define Z_MIN_PROBE_USES_Z_MIN_ENDSTOP_PIN&#xA;&#xA;/**&#xA; * Z_MIN_PROBE_ENDSTOP&#xA; *&#xA; * Enable this option for a probe connected to any pin except Z-Min.&#xA; * (By default Marlin assumes the Z-Max endstop pin.)&#xA; * To use a custom Z Probe pin, set Z_MIN_PROBE_PIN below.&#xA; *&#xA; *  - The simplest option is to use a free endstop connector.&#xA; *  - Use 5V for powered (usually inductive) sensors.&#xA; *&#xA; *  - RAMPS 1.3/1.4 boards may use the 5V, GND, and Aux4-&amp;gt;D32 pin:&#xA; *    - For simple switches connect...&#xA; *      - normally-closed switches to GND and D32.&#xA; *      - normally-open switches to 5V and D32.&#xA; *&#xA; * WARNING: Setting the wrong pin may have unexpected and potentially&#xA; * disastrous consequences. Use with caution and do your homework.&#xA; *&#xA; */&#xA;//#define Z_MIN_PROBE_ENDSTOP&#xA;&#xA;/**&#xA; * Probe Type&#xA; *&#xA; * Allen Key Probes, Servo Probes, Z-Sled Probes, FIX_MOUNTED_PROBE, etc.&#xA; * Activate one of these to use Auto Bed Leveling below.&#xA; */&#xA;&#xA;/**&#xA; * The &amp;quot;Manual Probe&amp;quot; provides a means to do &amp;quot;Auto&amp;quot; Bed Leveling without a probe.&#xA; * Use G29 repeatedly, adjusting the Z height at each point with movement commands&#xA; * or (with LCD_BED_LEVELING) the LCD controller.&#xA; */&#xA;//#define PROBE_MANUALLY&#xA;//#define MANUAL_PROBE_START_Z 0.2&#xA;&#xA;/**&#xA; * A Fix-Mounted Probe either doesn't deploy or needs manual deployment.&#xA; *   (e.g., an inductive probe or a nozzle-based probe-switch.)&#xA; */&#xA;#define FIX_MOUNTED_PROBE&#xA;&#xA;/**&#xA; * Z Servo Probe, such as an endstop switch on a rotating arm.&#xA; */&#xA;//#define Z_PROBE_SERVO_NR 0   // Defaults to SERVO 0 connector.&#xA;//#define Z_SERVO_ANGLES {70,0}  // Z Servo Deploy and Stow angles&#xA;&#xA;/**&#xA; * The BLTouch probe uses a Hall effect sensor and emulates a servo.&#xA; */&#xA;//#define BLTOUCH&#xA;#if ENABLED(BLTOUCH)&#xA;  //#define BLTOUCH_DELAY 375   // (ms) Enable and increase if needed&#xA;#endif&#xA;&#xA;/**&#xA; * Enable one or more of the following if probing seems unreliable.&#xA; * Heaters and/or fans can be disabled during probing to minimize electrical&#xA; * noise. A delay can also be added to allow noise and vibration to settle.&#xA; * These options are most useful for the BLTouch probe, but may also improve&#xA; * readings with inductive probes and piezo sensors.&#xA; */&#xA;//#define PROBING_HEATERS_OFF       // Turn heaters off when probing&#xA;#if ENABLED(PROBING_HEATERS_OFF)&#xA;  //#define WAIT_FOR_BED_HEATER     // Wait for bed to heat back up between probes (to improve accuracy)&#xA;#endif&#xA;//#define PROBING_FANS_OFF          // Turn fans off when probing&#xA;//#define DELAY_BEFORE_PROBING 200  // (ms) To prevent vibrations from triggering piezo sensors&#xA;&#xA;// A probe that is deployed and stowed with a solenoid pin (SOL1_PIN)&#xA;//#define SOLENOID_PROBE&#xA;&#xA;// A sled-mounted probe like those designed by Charles Bell.&#xA;//#define Z_PROBE_SLED&#xA;//#define SLED_DOCKING_OFFSET 5  // The extra distance the X axis must travel to pickup the sled. 0 should be fine but you can push it further if you'd like.&#xA;&#xA;//&#xA;// For Z_PROBE_ALLEN_KEY see the Delta example configurations.&#xA;//&#xA;&#xA;/**&#xA; *   Z Probe to nozzle (X,Y) offset, relative to (0, 0).&#xA; *   X and Y offsets must be integers.&#xA; *&#xA; *   In the following example the X and Y offsets are both positive:&#xA; *   #define X_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER 10&#xA; *   #define Y_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER 10&#xA; *&#xA; *      +-- BACK ---+&#xA; *      |           |&#xA; *    L |    (+) P  | R &amp;lt;-- probe (20,20)&#xA; *    E |           | I&#xA; *    F | (-) N (+) | G &amp;lt;-- nozzle (10,10)&#xA; *    T |           | H&#xA; *      |    (-)    | T&#xA; *      |           |&#xA; *      O-- FRONT --+&#xA; *    (0,0)&#xA; */&#xA;#define X_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER -43&#xA;#define Y_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER -4&#xA;#define Z_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER 0&#xA;// X offset: -left  +right  [of the nozzle]&#xA;// Y offset: -front +behind [the nozzle]&#xA;// Z offset: -below +above  [the nozzle]&#xA;&#xA;// Certain types of probes need to stay away from edges&#xA;#define MIN_PROBE_EDGE 10&#xA;&#xA;// X and Y axis travel speed (mm/m) between probes&#xA;#define XY_PROBE_SPEED 6000&#xA;&#xA;// Feedrate (mm/m) for the first approach when double-probing (MULTIPLE_PROBING == 2)&#xA;#define Z_PROBE_SPEED_FAST HOMING_FEEDRATE_Z&#xA;&#xA;// Feedrate (mm/m) for the &amp;quot;accurate&amp;quot; probe of each point&#xA;#define Z_PROBE_SPEED_SLOW (Z_PROBE_SPEED_FAST / 2)&#xA;&#xA;// The number of probes to perform at each point.&#xA;//   Set to 2 for a fast/slow probe, using the second probe result.&#xA;//   Set to 3 or more for slow probes, averaging the results.&#xA;#define MULTIPLE_PROBING 3&#xA;&#xA;/**&#xA; * Z probes require clearance when deploying, stowing, and moving between&#xA; * probe points to avoid hitting the bed and other hardware.&#xA; * Servo-mounted probes require extra space for the arm to rotate.&#xA; * Inductive probes need space to keep from triggering early.&#xA; *&#xA; * Use these settings to specify the distance (mm) to raise the probe (or&#xA; * lower the bed). The values set here apply over and above any (negative)&#xA; * probe Z Offset set with Z_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER, M851, or the LCD.&#xA; * Only integer values &amp;gt;= 1 are valid here.&#xA; *&#xA; * Example: `M851 Z-5` with a CLEARANCE of 4  =&amp;gt;  9mm from bed to nozzle.&#xA; *     But: `M851 Z+1` with a CLEARANCE of 2  =&amp;gt;  2mm from bed to nozzle.&#xA; */&#xA;#define Z_CLEARANCE_DEPLOY_PROBE   10 // Z Clearance for Deploy/Stow&#xA;#define Z_CLEARANCE_BETWEEN_PROBES  5 // Z Clearance between probe points&#xA;#define Z_CLEARANCE_MULTI_PROBE     5 // Z Clearance between multiple probes&#xA;//#define Z_AFTER_PROBING           5 // Z position after probing is done&#xA;&#xA;#define Z_PROBE_LOW_POINT          -2 // Farthest distance below the trigger-point to go before stopping&#xA;&#xA;// For M851 give a range for adjusting the Z probe offset&#xA;#define Z_PROBE_OFFSET_RANGE_MIN -20&#xA;#define Z_PROBE_OFFSET_RANGE_MAX 20&#xA;&#xA;// Enable the M48 repeatability test to test probe accuracy&#xA;//#define Z_MIN_PROBE_REPEATABILITY_TEST&#xA;&#xA;// For Inverting Stepper Enable Pins (Active Low) use 0, Non Inverting (Active High) use 1&#xA;// :{ 0:'Low', 1:'High' }&#xA;#define X_ENABLE_ON 0&#xA;#define Y_ENABLE_ON 0&#xA;#define Z_ENABLE_ON 0&#xA;#define E_ENABLE_ON 0 // For all extruders&#xA;&#xA;// Disables axis stepper immediately when it's not being used.&#xA;// WARNING: When motors turn off there is a chance of losing position accuracy!&#xA;#define DISABLE_X false&#xA;#define DISABLE_Y false&#xA;#define DISABLE_Z false&#xA;// Warn on display about possibly reduced accuracy&#xA;//#define DISABLE_REDUCED_ACCURACY_WARNING&#xA;&#xA;// @section extruder&#xA;&#xA;#define DISABLE_E false // For all extruders&#xA;#define DISABLE_INACTIVE_EXTRUDER true // Keep only the active extruder enabled.&#xA;&#xA;// @section machine&#xA;&#xA;// Invert the stepper direction. Change (or reverse the motor connector) if an axis goes the wrong way.&#xA;#define INVERT_X_DIR false&#xA;#define INVERT_Y_DIR false&#xA;#define INVERT_Z_DIR true&#xA;&#xA;// @section extruder&#xA;&#xA;// For direct drive extruder v9 set to true, for geared extruder set to false.&#xA;#define INVERT_E0_DIR false&#xA;#define INVERT_E1_DIR false&#xA;#define INVERT_E2_DIR false&#xA;#define INVERT_E3_DIR false&#xA;#define INVERT_E4_DIR false&#xA;&#xA;// @section homing&#xA;&#xA;//#define NO_MOTION_BEFORE_HOMING  // Inhibit movement until all axes have been homed&#xA;&#xA;//#define UNKNOWN_Z_NO_RAISE // Don't raise Z (lower the bed) if Z is &amp;quot;unknown.&amp;quot; For beds that fall when Z is powered off.&#xA;&#xA;//#define Z_HOMING_HEIGHT 4  // (in mm) Minimal z height before homing (G28) for Z clearance above the bed, clamps, ...&#xA;                             // Be sure you have this distance over your Z_MAX_POS in case.&#xA;&#xA;// Direction of endstops when homing; 1=MAX, -1=MIN&#xA;// :[-1,1]&#xA;#define X_HOME_DIR -1&#xA;#define Y_HOME_DIR -1&#xA;#define Z_HOME_DIR -1&#xA;&#xA;// @section machine&#xA;&#xA;// The size of the print bed&#xA;#define X_BED_SIZE 220&#xA;#define Y_BED_SIZE 220&#xA;&#xA;// Travel limits (mm) after homing, corresponding to endstop positions.&#xA;#define X_MIN_POS -33&#xA;#define Y_MIN_POS -10&#xA;#define Z_MIN_POS 0&#xA;#define X_MAX_POS X_BED_SIZE&#xA;#define Y_MAX_POS Y_BED_SIZE&#xA;#define Z_MAX_POS 240&#xA;&#xA;/**&#xA; * Software Endstops&#xA; *&#xA; * - Prevent moves outside the set machine bounds.&#xA; * - Individual axes can be disabled, if desired.&#xA; * - X and Y only apply to Cartesian robots.&#xA; * - Use 'M211' to set software endstops on/off or report current state&#xA; */&#xA;&#xA;// Min software endstops constrain movement within minimum coordinate bounds&#xA;#define MIN_SOFTWARE_ENDSTOPS&#xA;#if ENABLED(MIN_SOFTWARE_ENDSTOPS)&#xA;  #define MIN_SOFTWARE_ENDSTOP_X&#xA;  #define MIN_SOFTWARE_ENDSTOP_Y&#xA;  #define MIN_SOFTWARE_ENDSTOP_Z&#xA;#endif&#xA;&#xA;// Max software endstops constrain movement within maximum coordinate bounds&#xA;#define MAX_SOFTWARE_ENDSTOPS&#xA;#if ENABLED(MAX_SOFTWARE_ENDSTOPS)&#xA;  #define MAX_SOFTWARE_ENDSTOP_X&#xA;  #define MAX_SOFTWARE_ENDSTOP_Y&#xA;  #define MAX_SOFTWARE_ENDSTOP_Z&#xA;#endif&#xA;&#xA;#if ENABLED(MIN_SOFTWARE_ENDSTOPS) || ENABLED(MAX_SOFTWARE_ENDSTOPS)&#xA;  //#define SOFT_ENDSTOPS_MENU_ITEM  // Enable/Disable software endstops from the LCD&#xA;#endif&#xA;&#xA;/**&#xA; * Filament Runout Sensors&#xA; * Mechanical or opto endstops are used to check for the presence of filament.&#xA; *&#xA; * RAMPS-based boards use SERVO3_PIN for the first runout sensor.&#xA; * For other boards you may need to define FIL_RUNOUT_PIN, FIL_RUNOUT2_PIN, etc.&#xA; * By default the firmware assumes HIGH=FILAMENT PRESENT.&#xA; */&#xA;//#define FILAMENT_RUNOUT_SENSOR&#xA;#if ENABLED(FILAMENT_RUNOUT_SENSOR)&#xA;  #define NUM_RUNOUT_SENSORS   1     // Number of sensors, up to one per extruder. Define a FIL_RUNOUT#_PIN for each.&#xA;  #define FIL_RUNOUT_INVERTING false // set to true to invert the logic of the sensor.&#xA;  #define FIL_RUNOUT_PULLUP          // Use internal pullup for filament runout pins.&#xA;  #define FILAMENT_RUNOUT_SCRIPT &amp;quot;M600&amp;quot;&#xA;#endif&#xA;&#xA;//===========================================================================&#xA;//=============================== Bed Leveling ==============================&#xA;//===========================================================================&#xA;// @section calibrate&#xA;&#xA;/**&#xA; * Choose one of the options below to enable G29 Bed Leveling. The parameters&#xA; * and behavior of G29 will change depending on your selection.&#xA; *&#xA; *  If using a Probe for Z Homing, enable Z_SAFE_HOMING also!&#xA; *&#xA; * - AUTO_BED_LEVELING_3POINT&#xA; *   Probe 3 arbitrary points on the bed (that aren't collinear)&#xA; *   You specify the XY coordinates of all 3 points.&#xA; *   The result is a single tilted plane. Best for a flat bed.&#xA; *&#xA; * - AUTO_BED_LEVELING_LINEAR&#xA; *   Probe several points in a grid.&#xA; *   You specify the rectangle and the density of sample points.&#xA; *   The result is a single tilted plane. Best for a flat bed.&#xA; *&#xA; * - AUTO_BED_LEVELING_BILINEAR&#xA; *   Probe several points in a grid.&#xA; *   You specify the rectangle and the density of sample points.&#xA; *   The result is a mesh, best for large or uneven beds.&#xA; *&#xA; * - AUTO_BED_LEVELING_UBL (Unified Bed Leveling)&#xA; *   A comprehensive bed leveling system combining the features and benefits&#xA; *   of other systems. UBL also includes integrated Mesh Generation, Mesh&#xA; *   Validation and Mesh Editing systems.&#xA; *&#xA; * - MESH_BED_LEVELING&#xA; *   Probe a grid manually&#xA; *   The result is a mesh, suitable for large or uneven beds. (See BILINEAR.)&#xA; *   For machines without a probe, Mesh Bed Leveling provides a method to perform&#xA; *   leveling in steps so you can manually adjust the Z height at each grid-point.&#xA;    With an LCD controller the process is guided step-by-step.&#xA; */&#xA;//#define AUTO_BED_LEVELING_3POINT&#xA;//#define AUTO_BED_LEVELING_LINEAR&#xA;#define AUTO_BED_LEVELING_BILINEAR&#xA;//#define AUTO_BED_LEVELING_UBL&#xA;//#define MESH_BED_LEVELING&#xA;&#xA;/**&#xA; * Normally G28 leaves leveling disabled on completion. Enable&#xA; * this option to have G28 restore the prior leveling state.&#xA; */&#xA;//#define RESTORE_LEVELING_AFTER_G28&#xA;&#xA;/**&#xA; * Enable detailed logging of G28, G29, M48, etc.&#xA; * Turn on with the command 'M111 S32'.&#xA; * NOTE: Requires a lot of PROGMEM!&#xA; */&#xA;//#define DEBUG_LEVELING_FEATURE&#xA;&#xA;#if ENABLED(MESH_BED_LEVELING) || ENABLED(AUTO_BED_LEVELING_BILINEAR) || ENABLED(AUTO_BED_LEVELING_UBL)&#xA;  // Gradually reduce leveling correction until a set height is reached,&#xA;  // at which point movement will be level to the machine's XY plane.&#xA;  // The height can be set with M420 Z&amp;lt;height&amp;gt;&#xA;  #define ENABLE_LEVELING_FADE_HEIGHT&#xA;&#xA;  // For Cartesian machines, instead of dividing moves on mesh boundaries,&#xA;  // split up moves into short segments like a Delta. This follows the&#xA;  // contours of the bed more closely than edge-to-edge straight moves.&#xA;  #define SEGMENT_LEVELED_MOVES&#xA;  #define LEVELED_SEGMENT_LENGTH 5.0 // (mm) Length of all segments (except the last one)&#xA;&#xA;  /**&#xA;   * Enable the G26 Mesh Validation Pattern tool.&#xA;   */&#xA;  //#define G26_MESH_VALIDATION&#xA;  #if ENABLED(G26_MESH_VALIDATION)&#xA;    #define MESH_TEST_NOZZLE_SIZE    0.4  // (mm) Diameter of primary nozzle.&#xA;    #define MESH_TEST_LAYER_HEIGHT   0.2  // (mm) Default layer height for the G26 Mesh Validation Tool.&#xA;    #define MESH_TEST_HOTEND_TEMP  205.0  // (Â°C) Default nozzle temperature for the G26 Mesh Validation Tool.&#xA;    #define MESH_TEST_BED_TEMP      60.0  // (Â°C) Default bed temperature for the G26 Mesh Validation Tool.&#xA;  #endif&#xA;&#xA;#endif&#xA;&#xA;#if ENABLED(AUTO_BED_LEVELING_LINEAR) || ENABLED(AUTO_BED_LEVELING_BILINEAR)&#xA;&#xA;  // Set the number of grid points per dimension.&#xA;  #define GRID_MAX_POINTS_X 3&#xA;  #define GRID_MAX_POINTS_Y GRID_MAX_POINTS_X&#xA;&#xA;  // Set the boundaries for probing (where the probe can reach).&#xA;  //#define LEFT_PROBE_BED_POSITION MIN_PROBE_EDGE 10&#xA;  //#define RIGHT_PROBE_BED_POSITION (X_BED_SIZE - MIN_PROBE_EDGE) 167&#xA;  //#define FRONT_PROBE_BED_POSITION MIN_PROBE_EDGE 10&#xA;  //#define BACK_PROBE_BED_POSITION (Y_BED_SIZE - MIN_PROBE_EDGE) 202&#xA;  #define LEFT_PROBE_BED_POSITION 10&#xA;  #define RIGHT_PROBE_BED_POSITION 167&#xA;  #define FRONT_PROBE_BED_POSITION 10&#xA;  #define BACK_PROBE_BED_POSITION 206&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;  // Probe along the Y axis, advancing X after each column&#xA;  //#define PROBE_Y_FIRST&#xA;&#xA;  #if ENABLED(AUTO_BED_LEVELING_BILINEAR)&#xA;&#xA;    // Beyond the probed grid, continue the implied tilt?&#xA;    // Default is to maintain the height of the nearest edge.&#xA;    //#define EXTRAPOLATE_BEYOND_GRID&#xA;&#xA;    //&#xA;    // Experimental Subdivision of the grid by Catmull-Rom method.&#xA;    // Synthesizes intermediate points to produce a more detailed mesh.&#xA;    //&#xA;    //#define ABL_BILINEAR_SUBDIVISION&#xA;    #if ENABLED(ABL_BILINEAR_SUBDIVISION)&#xA;      // Number of subdivisions between probe points&#xA;      #define BILINEAR_SUBDIVISIONS 3&#xA;    #endif&#xA;&#xA;  #endif&#xA;&#xA;#elif ENABLED(AUTO_BED_LEVELING_UBL)&#xA;&#xA;  //===========================================================================&#xA;  //========================= Unified Bed Leveling ============================&#xA;  //===========================================================================&#xA;&#xA;  //#define MESH_EDIT_GFX_OVERLAY   // Display a graphics overlay while editing the mesh&#xA;&#xA;  #define MESH_INSET 1              // Set Mesh bounds as an inset region of the bed&#xA;  #define GRID_MAX_POINTS_X 10      // Don't use more than 15 points per axis, implementation limited.&#xA;  #define GRID_MAX_POINTS_Y GRID_MAX_POINTS_X&#xA;&#xA;  #define UBL_MESH_EDIT_MOVES_Z     // Sophisticated users prefer no movement of nozzle&#xA;  #define UBL_SAVE_ACTIVE_ON_M500   // Save the currently active mesh in the current slot on M500&#xA;&#xA;  //#define UBL_Z_RAISE_WHEN_OFF_MESH 2.5 // When the nozzle is off the mesh, this value is used&#xA;                                          // as the Z-Height correction value.&#xA;&#xA;#elif ENABLED(MESH_BED_LEVELING)&#xA;&#xA;  //===========================================================================&#xA;  //=================================== Mesh ==================================&#xA;  //===========================================================================&#xA;&#xA;  #define MESH_INSET 10          // Set Mesh bounds as an inset region of the bed&#xA;  #define GRID_MAX_POINTS_X 3    // Don't use more than 7 points per axis, implementation limited.&#xA;  #define GRID_MAX_POINTS_Y GRID_MAX_POINTS_X&#xA;&#xA;  //#define MESH_G28_REST_ORIGIN // After homing all axes ('G28' or 'G28 XYZ') rest Z at Z_MIN_POS&#xA;&#xA;#endif // BED_LEVELING&#xA;&#xA;/**&#xA; * Points to probe for all 3-point Leveling procedures.&#xA; * Override if the automatically selected points are inadequate.&#xA; */&#xA;#if ENABLED(AUTO_BED_LEVELING_3POINT) || ENABLED(AUTO_BED_LEVELING_UBL)&#xA;  #define PROBE_PT_1_X 20&#xA;  #define PROBE_PT_1_Y 160&#xA;  #define PROBE_PT_2_X 20&#xA;  #define PROBE_PT_2_Y 10&#xA;  #define PROBE_PT_3_X 180&#xA;  #define PROBE_PT_3_Y 10&#xA;#endif&#xA;&#xA;/**&#xA; * Add a bed leveling sub-menu for ABL or MBL.&#xA; * Include a guided procedure if manual probing is enabled.&#xA; */&#xA;//#define LCD_BED_LEVELING&#xA;&#xA;#if ENABLED(LCD_BED_LEVELING)&#xA;  #define MBL_Z_STEP 0.025    // Step size while manually probing Z axis.&#xA;  #define LCD_PROBE_Z_RANGE 4 // Z Range centered on Z_MIN_POS for LCD Z adjustment&#xA;#endif&#xA;&#xA;// Add a menu item to move between bed corners for manual bed adjustment&#xA;//#define LEVEL_BED_CORNERS&#xA;&#xA;#if ENABLED(LEVEL_BED_CORNERS)&#xA;  #define LEVEL_CORNERS_INSET 30    // (mm) An inset for corner leveling&#xA;  //#define LEVEL_CENTER_TOO        // Move to the center after the last corner&#xA;#endif&#xA;&#xA;/**&#xA; * Commands to execute at the end of G29 probing.&#xA; * Useful to retract or move the Z probe out of the way.&#xA; */&#xA;//#define Z_PROBE_END_SCRIPT &amp;quot;G1 Z10 F12000\nG1 X15 Y330\nG1 Z0.5\nG1 Z10&amp;quot;&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;// @section homing&#xA;&#xA;// The center of the bed is at (X=0, Y=0)&#xA;//#define BED_CENTER_AT_0_0&#xA;&#xA;// Manually set the home position. Leave these undefined for automatic settings.&#xA;// For DELTA this is the top-center of the Cartesian print volume.&#xA;//#define MANUAL_X_HOME_POS 0&#xA;//#define MANUAL_Y_HOME_POS 0&#xA;//#define MANUAL_Z_HOME_POS 0&#xA;&#xA;// Use &amp;quot;Z Safe Homing&amp;quot; to avoid homing with a Z probe outside the bed area.&#xA;//&#xA;// With this feature enabled:&#xA;//&#xA;// - Allow Z homing only after X and Y homing AND stepper drivers still enabled.&#xA;// - If stepper drivers time out, it will need X and Y homing again before Z homing.&#xA;// - Move the Z probe (or nozzle) to a defined XY point before Z Homing when homing all axes (G28).&#xA;// - Prevent Z homing when the Z probe is outside bed area.&#xA;//&#xA;#define Z_SAFE_HOMING&#xA;&#xA;#if ENABLED(Z_SAFE_HOMING)&#xA;  #define Z_SAFE_HOMING_X_POINT ((X_BED_SIZE) / 2)     // X point for Z homing when homing all axes (G28).&#xA;  #define Z_SAFE_HOMING_Y_POINT ((Y_BED_SIZE) / 2)     // Y point for Z homing when homing all axes (G28).&#xA;#endif&#xA;&#xA;// Homing speeds (mm/m)&#xA;#define HOMING_FEEDRATE_XY (100*60)&#xA;#define HOMING_FEEDRATE_Z  (4*60)&#xA;&#xA;// @section calibrate&#xA;&#xA;/**&#xA; * Bed Skew Compensation&#xA; *&#xA; * This feature corrects for misalignment in the XYZ axes.&#xA; *&#xA; * Take the following steps to get the bed skew in the XY plane:&#xA; *  1. Print a test square (e.g., https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2563185)&#xA; *  2. For XY_DIAG_AC measure the diagonal A to C&#xA; *  3. For XY_DIAG_BD measure the diagonal B to D&#xA; *  4. For XY_SIDE_AD measure the edge A to D&#xA; *&#xA; * Marlin automatically computes skew factors from these measurements.&#xA; * Skew factors may also be computed and set manually:&#xA; *&#xA; *  - Compute AB     : SQRT(2*AC*AC+2*BD*BD-4*AD*AD)/2&#xA; *  - XY_SKEW_FACTOR : TAN(PI/2-ACOS((AC*AC-AB*AB-AD*AD)/(2*AB*AD)))&#xA; *&#xA; * If desired, follow the same procedure for XZ and YZ.&#xA; * Use these diagrams for reference:&#xA; *&#xA; *    Y                     Z                     Z&#xA; *    ^     B-------C       ^     B-------C       ^     B-------C&#xA; *    |    /       /        |    /       /        |    /       /&#xA; *    |   /       /         |   /       /         |   /       /&#xA; *    |  A-------D          |  A-------D          |  A-------D&#xA; *    +--------------&amp;gt;X     +--------------&amp;gt;X     +--------------&amp;gt;Y&#xA; *     XY_SKEW_FACTOR        XZ_SKEW_FACTOR        YZ_SKEW_FACTOR&#xA; */&#xA;//#define SKEW_CORRECTION&#xA;&#xA;#if ENABLED(SKEW_CORRECTION)&#xA;  // Input all length measurements here:&#xA;  #define XY_DIAG_AC 282.8427124746&#xA;  #define XY_DIAG_BD 282.8427124746&#xA;  #define XY_SIDE_AD 200&#xA;&#xA;  // Or, set the default skew factors directly here&#xA;  // to override the above measurements:&#xA;  #define XY_SKEW_FACTOR 0.0&#xA;&#xA;  //#define SKEW_CORRECTION_FOR_Z&#xA;  #if ENABLED(SKEW_CORRECTION_FOR_Z)&#xA;    #define XZ_DIAG_AC 282.8427124746&#xA;    #define XZ_DIAG_BD 282.8427124746&#xA;    #define YZ_DIAG_AC 282.8427124746&#xA;    #define YZ_DIAG_BD 282.8427124746&#xA;    #define YZ_SIDE_AD 200&#xA;    #define XZ_SKEW_FACTOR 0.0&#xA;    #define YZ_SKEW_FACTOR 0.0&#xA;  #endif&#xA;&#xA;  // Enable this option for M852 to set skew at runtime&#xA;  //#define SKEW_CORRECTION_GCODE&#xA;#endif&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40517" LastActivityDate="2023-11-15T14:22:02.197" Title="Anet A8 Auto Bed Levelling - Auto home not centring with new Marlin 1.1.9 config" Tags="|marlin|anet-a8|automatic-bed-leveling|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21635" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21633" CreationDate="2023-11-15T14:22:02.197" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your config looks fine for the most of the definitions that have been compared to the known settings when using a probe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should be aware that with &lt;code&gt;#define Z_SAFE_HOMING&lt;/code&gt; you define that the sensor is in the middle of the bed, however, the nozzle is then offset from the middle of the bed per the &lt;code&gt;#define X_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER -43&lt;/code&gt; and &lt;code&gt;#define Y_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER -4&lt;/code&gt; defined offsets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, when &lt;code&gt;G28&lt;/code&gt; is commanded, the carriage will move to (110, 110) for the probe  which is displayed as (110 - -43, 110 - -4) = (153, 114) for the nozzle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So there is nothing wrong with the configuration, it works as it should.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2023-11-15T14:22:02.197" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21637" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21631" CreationDate="2023-11-16T06:54:20.660" Score="2" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Get a proper module&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The most straightforward solution would be to get a 24 V rated laser module. However, that boat already departed (unless you can send it back and get a proper one in return).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The fan could be a 5 V signal, a 12 V, or a 24 V one, so make sure your laser module uses &lt;em&gt;that&lt;/em&gt; as a trigger.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Often, laser modules line their output directly to their power supply and have no extra switch wires - using the main heater cartridge connectors as the power supply and switch will certainly work on its own, once you get the proper voltage set.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Buck Converter&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To get from 24 V to 12 V, you can use a Buck converter, in this application also known as a Step-Down-Converter. This will turn the 24 V output of the mainboard's heater wires into useable 12 V power. Often, these items have quick-connect plugs, possibly allowing you to quickly swap the laser module in, provided you have everything else set up similarly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please keep in mind that these modules, depending on setup, can shed quite some heat, and might require a suitable cooling setup. &lt;a href=&quot;https://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/509861/inductors-and-caps-on-buck-boost-converter-getting-very-hot-under-medium-ish-loa&quot;&gt;Heating can also indicate bad manufacture.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Voltage divider&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can be &lt;strong&gt;really&lt;/strong&gt; sure that you get 24 V Output max, you could use a beefy &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Voltage_divider&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;1:1 voltage divider&lt;/a&gt; by using two same-sized resistors and taking the supply voltage between the two before going back to the ground. To alleviate heating problems (you'll shed &lt;strong&gt;loads&lt;/strong&gt; of heat) you should use resistors that have cooling planned in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Optocoupler&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to run the laser from an external 12V, you could run that though an appropriate optocoupler and use any output from the printer as your &amp;quot;signal&amp;quot; to allow power to flow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2023-11-16T13:45:22.940" LastActivityDate="2023-11-16T13:45:22.940" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21638" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21631" CreationDate="2023-11-16T08:21:58.863" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have converted a 3D printer to a laser printer using the fan port. Although it is possible, I would not suggest to use the fan port for this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, make sure what your laser module uses as input. E.g. my laser module could be run from a 12 V power connection, so I did not power it from the printer controller board. Second, make sure the TTL (the PWM signal for scheduling the laser intensity) is able to handle the voltage you send to it. If you use a 24 V controller board, it could be that the fan (as well as the heater cartridge and the bed) run at 24 V. If so, you need to step down the voltage so that the laser module can use this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that when using the fan port as the PWM signal for the laser, you introduce a lag. The controller board chip sends out a signal to the MOSFET to schedule the fan as this is drawing more amperes than could have been supplied over the controller chip. This creates a lag in between the actual controller board pin and the fan signal causing the actual laser engraving to be less accurate (started too late, stopped too late). It was that much that I had to create an application in Python that read created G-code and introduced very small pauses to give the laser time to start and have it stop on time because of the delay. This has led me to directly use the PWM signal (that drives the MOSFET) instead of the fan PWM signal for controlling the laser.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2023-11-16T11:51:11.720" LastActivityDate="2023-11-16T11:51:11.720" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21639" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21588" CreationDate="2023-11-16T08:57:46.010" Score="0" Body="&lt;h2&gt;It depends&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will get a metal printed part. Typically, the process to create these is either laser sintering or laser smelting. In both applications, the powder is heated by a laser in a very small area, and by the application of heat forms a little half-sphere of connected material. By moving the work zone of the laser, the object is created in layers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a direct result of slight inhomogeneities in heating behavior due to particle size, the surface will have certain irregularities and a certain roughness. For example, the Manifold shown by 3dspro &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dspro.com/3d-printing-solutions/list/7.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;on their website&lt;/a&gt; shows this section, followed by a paragraph I will quote:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8ofUW.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8ofUW.png&quot; alt=&quot;snippet from 3dspro's manifold&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally, SLM may produce parts with residual stresses and distortion in the final part, which can affect its mechanical properties and dimensional accuracy. This can be mitigated by carefully selecting process parameters and performing post-processing operations such as stress relieving or machining. &lt;strong&gt;SLM may also produce parts with a rough surface finish that requires additional post-processing to achieve the desired surface quality&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on the tolerances you planned for and the required air tightness, you may or may not require post-processing. If you are in doubt, contact your print shop, and if you determine that you need post-processing, make sure to have extra material in the affected areas. SLM prints can be machined if you remember that your print contains possible stresses. As such, turning or milling the surfaces for the O-rings should be possible, if you are careful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastActivityDate="2023-11-16T08:57:46.010" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21641" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21631" CreationDate="2023-11-17T06:30:55.143" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You'll need a 12 V step-down regulator to convert your 24 V to 12V, or a separate power supply for the laser module (make sure to connect each PSU's ground terminals).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It also depends on what sort of PWM your module expects.&#xA;The fan control on 3D printer boards is done by turning on and off the ground connection to the fan, while the positive supply (12/24 V) is on constantly. This may not be what your module requires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maybe it's fine with a 5 V PWM signal (usually called &amp;quot;TTL signal&amp;quot;), in which case you could use any available digital pin (e.g. from the endstop connectors) and set your firmware up to use that pin as the &amp;quot;fan&amp;quot;. Depending on the firmware, there may be delays between the change in &amp;quot;fan speed&amp;quot; / laser power being scheduled and it actually being applied. If it needs 12 V PWM, I like using &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.handsontec.com/dataspecs/L298N%20Motor%20Driver.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;L298N&lt;/a&gt;-based &amp;quot;motor drivers&amp;quot; to drive loads like this. Hook up the inputs to the motor driver to the output of the step-down regulator and connect the corresponding input to one of your motherboard's PWM pins.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13171" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2023-11-17T14:35:33.607" LastActivityDate="2023-11-17T14:35:33.607" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21642" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19198" CreationDate="2023-11-17T09:57:32.660" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Acetone or alcohol hasn't worked at all for me, if anything it made it worse by stripping the PLA of the sheen its supposed to have. I have tried various types of Acetone as well, all with similar results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know this will sound crazy, but I have been doing this for about 6 months. I use Sesame Oil, applied generously with a Q-tip, and then I &amp;quot;rub it in/dry it off&amp;quot; with a paper towel. This has worked on various sheens of PLA and PLA+ and completely removes any evidence of super glue. I haven't seen the oil dry out yet either. At first I thought the oil would wear off or dry out, but it has not yet and its been 6 months since I've been doing this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40533" LastActivityDate="2023-11-17T09:57:32.660" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21643" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15022" CreationDate="2023-11-17T09:59:41.870" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Acetone hasn't worked at all for me, if anything it made it worse by stripping the PLA of the sheen its supposed to have. I have tried various types of Acetone as well, all with similar results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know this will sound crazy, but I have been doing this for about 6 months. I use Sesame Oil, applied generously with a Q-tip, and then I &amp;quot;rub it in/dry it off&amp;quot; with a paper towel. This has worked on various sheens of PLA and PLA+ and completely removes any evidence of super glue. I haven't seen the oil dry out yet either. At first I thought the oil would wear off or dry out, but it has not yet and its been 6 months since I've been doing this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40533" LastActivityDate="2023-11-17T09:59:41.870" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21645" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15022" CreationDate="2023-11-17T16:31:11.950" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Try wiping with Vaseline petroleum jelly. It effectively removes the white haze that sometimes forms around a joint glued with cyanoacrylate. It may remove or diminish the color of the glue residue, though will not remove the glue itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="33030" LastActivityDate="2023-11-17T16:31:11.950" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21647" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20845" CreationDate="2023-11-17T19:26:17.350" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Try tightening the eccentric nuts on the Y carriage, they were lose on mine from factory which was causing it to rock side-to-side so made bed leveling impossible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37265" LastActivityDate="2023-11-17T19:26:17.350" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21648" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-11-18T12:52:20.810" Score="3" ViewCount="42" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm probably going to answer my own question because I ordered a set of ball bearings to repair the extruder and then walked passed my lathe and realised all I had to do was turn some brass bushes the same 10 mm OD and 6 mm ID to replace the ball bearings. Thirty minutes later the printer was back online.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now thinking about it, I wonder why ball bearings are used. There is no critical clearance between the filament and the drive cog as the filament is spring-loaded against the drive. Thus as the bearing wears a little over time it's only a matter of increasing the tension. There would be no sudden collapse in the middle of a print job. Of course, there might be good reason to once every 100 operational hours to re-grease the bearings. There would be plenty of warning of impending drive failure and plenty of time to figure in a new bearing. I expect however the brass bush to last the lifetime of the printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has anyone been down this path with any sort of success?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40548" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2023-11-18T15:38:41.523" LastActivityDate="2023-12-18T23:04:55.550" Title="Are there specific advantages in using ball bearings on the extruder drive bearings" Tags="|extruder|bearing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21649" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21648" CreationDate="2023-11-18T18:19:01.690" Score="2" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Standard parts.&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The idler wheels of an extruder are all standard parts. While a bushing is a suitable replacement for a ball bearing in the specific application, the bearing has some benefits over it:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mass availability. Buying them in bulk is cheap for the manufacturer.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Harder to seize up the mechanism. A ball bearing that is slightly out of spec (e.g. too tall central boss) will not block up the mechanism for the inside and outside of the bearing are decoupled.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;More compatible with screws. Unless the bearing is seized up, the screw that goes through the part does not need to be smooth but can be threaded everywhere - so the bolt is a cheaper standard part than one with a straight shaft for a bushing.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2023-11-18T22:40:11.663" LastActivityDate="2023-11-18T22:40:11.663" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21650" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-11-18T23:04:16.060" Score="-1" ViewCount="44" Body="&lt;p&gt;I finally decided to go to the Internet with this question, recently I used a very bad filament and it broke inside of my Bowden tube. I'm trying to replace the tube in order to get the filament out but the bolt keeping it down just won't seem to unscrew. I really really need help&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40554" LastActivityDate="2023-11-20T12:21:46.990" Title="I own a Aquila box 3D printer and I'm trying to remove the tube, but the bolt is stuck" Tags="|aquila-x3|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21651" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21528" CreationDate="2023-11-19T08:57:47.277" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;After encountering issues with an unknown brand fan overpowering the Creality fan, I experimented with resistors. Initially, a 330-ohm resistor resolved the thermal runaway warning but led to under-extrusion due to inadequate cooling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AGxj2.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AGxj2.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A 100-ohm resistor addressed under-extrusion but triggered thermal runaway.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AIbCT.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AIbCT.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The optimal solution was a 220-ohm resistor, resolving both issues.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NokK1.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NokK1.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've tested this setup for approximately 1 day, 11 hours, and 7 minutes with successful results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="32434" LastActivityDate="2023-11-19T08:57:47.277" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21654" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10026" CreationDate="2023-11-20T05:36:38.730" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can use 3 phase stepper motors for 3D printers but I have not seen a Pololu-style driver. You can use an external driver like the 3DM580S.  Many 3D printer control boards offer external connections to send steps(or pulses)/direction/enable/ground connection to an external driver.&#xA;The 3-phase motors that I have seen tend to be bigger, which means that you'll need bigger belts.  Also, they move 1.2 degrees per whole step, as opposed to the typical 1.8 degrees per step with bipolar stepper motors (0.9 degrees/step bi-polar motors are common as well). This means you'll need to make some slight adjustments to the steps/mm on your firmware but that's not too difficult.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15002" LastActivityDate="2023-11-20T05:36:38.730" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21656" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-11-20T11:43:02.743" Score="1" ViewCount="20" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was printing a leather mold on my Anycubic Photon Mono 4k. I needed to pause the print to refill resin vat, and at the height of the pause I got a crack. Resin is washed, but not yet cured. So how do I go from here? I don't want to have to reprint it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was thinking about using a baby powder + resin to fill the cracks before curing, and sanding it after. But maybe there's a better way? Especially for the hollow part, as it will rest directly on the leather and any blemishes will be transferred to the finished product.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mi3er.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mi3er.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Image showing the crack&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20803" LastEditorUserId="20803" LastEditDate="2023-11-20T12:17:41.903" LastActivityDate="2023-11-20T12:17:41.903" Title="How to fixcrack from a print pause?" Tags="|resin|anycubic-photon|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21657" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21650" CreationDate="2023-11-20T12:21:46.990" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It looks like Aquila X3 uses the same standard pneumatic fittings as most printers for its bowden tubes. In that case you don't need to unscrew anything. You push the plastic collar on the fitting into the metal part of the fitting, and while holding it pushed in you pull the bowden tube out. There are small teeth in there that will disengage allowing the tube to be pulled out. There are small teeth inside the fitting that grip the tube, and retract when pushed by the collar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you repeat this a couple times, trim a couple mm off the end of the tube as the damage from the teeth will accumulate. Also, these fittings and their teeth mechanism are rather flimsy so they break easily. In this case you'll need a more destructive approach (likely cut the bowden then use force to unscrew the fitting, praying not to break the extruder, then replace it with a new one, they cost pennies.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2206" LastActivityDate="2023-11-20T12:21:46.990" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21658" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20900" CreationDate="2023-11-20T12:32:34.563" Score="0" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The CR touch sensor touches the bed before the nozzle does.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The nozzle isn't too high. The sensor is too low. Unless you mean the probe touches the bed first while in extended state which I doubt you mean because where's the problem in that? - that's how the probe is supposed to work!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First check how the probe is mounted on its mounting bracket. If it's mounted on its underside, shift it to its top side. If it's already on top, either add some washers/distancers to the probe mounting screws or adjust the 3D project of the bracket and reprint it. Afterwards perform standard &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ulteP9oQfKA&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Z probe offset calibration&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2206" LastActivityDate="2023-11-20T12:32:34.563" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21660" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21689" CreationDate="2023-11-21T12:53:22.077" Score="1" ViewCount="1211" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking into Input Shaping (Resonance Compensation) to compensate for vibration on an Ender 3 V2. I found the &amp;quot;Official Creality G-Sensor ADXL345 Vibration Compensation Sensor for Sonic Pad 3D Printed Smart Pad&amp;quot; which I guess, unlike the name suggests, can work on more than just the Sonic Pad.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/l48Mas.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/l48Mas.png&quot; alt=&quot;Official Creality G-Sensor ADXL345 Vibration Compensation Sensor for Sonic Pad 3D Printed Smart Pad&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a fairly stock Creality Ender 3 V2 printer running the Marlin based mriscoc firmware. Marlin Firmware supports &lt;a href=&quot;https://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M593.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Input Shaping (M593)&lt;/a&gt; and so does the &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/mriscoc/Ender3V2S1/wiki/Input-Shaping-(IS)&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;mriscoc firmware&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Marlin documentation states:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It’s not always easy to attach an accelerometer to most printer boards, so Marlin doesn’t provide accelerator-based tuning. If you have that information you can use it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The mriscoc firmware documentation, which is specifically for Ender 3 V2 and Marlin based, states:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The IS parameters are the resonance frequencies of your printer’s X and Y axes, which &lt;strong&gt;can be measured using an accelerometer&lt;/strong&gt; or a test print&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm thinking to buy the bare ADXL345 accelerometer. Is it possible to wire this up, and if so, how do I wire this accelerometer to my 4.2.2 board? I guess I can than continue by simply flashing the IS enabled firmware of mriscoc to get it supported in the firmware.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36802" LastEditorUserId="36802" LastEditDate="2023-11-21T13:29:18.330" LastActivityDate="2023-11-28T01:23:28.260" Title="How to physically wire a (ADXL345) accelerometer for Input Shaping (Resonance Compensation) support on for a Ender 3 V2 printer?" Tags="|creality-ender-3|input-shaping|resonance-compensation|mriscoc|vibration-compensation|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21661" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21666" CreationDate="2023-11-21T13:03:28.320" Score="1" ViewCount="450" Body="&lt;p&gt;In addition to my question &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/21660/how-to-physically-wire-a-adxl345-accelerometer-for-input-shaping-resonance-co&quot;&gt;How to physically wire a (ADXL345) accelerometer for Input Shaping (Resonance Compensation) support on for a Ender 3 V2 printer?&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does an accelerometer in a Marlin-based Input Shaping setup compensate in real-time (during print) for vibration? Or is it a one time (for example before print) measurement to determine a level of vibration and use that as the compensation scheme during a print, as in &amp;quot;not adapting to unexpected vibration&amp;quot;? Similar to how bed leveling is used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it does not do real-time compensation, what is the benefit of having an accelerometer compared to doing Input Shaping test prints instead?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36802" LastEditorUserId="36802" LastEditDate="2023-11-21T13:18:13.680" LastActivityDate="2023-11-22T12:48:29.003" Title="Does an accelerometer in a Marlin-based Input Shaping setup compensate in real-time (during print) for vibration?" Tags="|marlin|input-shaping|resonance-compensation|vibration-compensation|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21662" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21728" CreationDate="2023-11-21T13:28:42.003" Score="0" ViewCount="107" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Marlin Firmware supports Input Shaping (M593) as described in the &lt;a href=&quot;https://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M593.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Marlin documentation&lt;/a&gt; writing:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Set the Input Shaping damping factor and/or frequency (in Hertz) &lt;strong&gt;for axes that support it.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But the parameters shown under the Usage section suggest only axis X and Y are supported? It is possible to use input shaping (in Marlin) to compensate vibration on all X, Y and Z axes?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36802" LastActivityDate="2023-12-02T14:48:58.833" Title="Does Marlin input shaping compensate vibration on all X, Y and Z axes?" Tags="|marlin|input-shaping|resonance-compensation|vibration-compensation|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21663" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-11-21T14:37:16.563" Score="0" ViewCount="79" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm having issues with the accuracy of the Z-axis of my Creality Halot One. X and Y seem pretty close (as you'd expect for resin).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Firstly, it seems to not move and/or overprint the first 0.6 mm or so of the model, which as well as being inaccurate, also creates little flares. This error was tested and confirmed by creating a measuring stick and printing.  I could theoretically get around this by raising the part on supports, but as I am doing a flat surface, I can't afford to have the &amp;quot;pimples&amp;quot; generated by the support on this surface (and neither can I rotate for the same reasons - other flat surfaces).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Secondly, it appears that the Z-axis is under-height by about 10 %. What should be circular features appear as ovals, and my best measuring shows the Z-axis comes out about 10 % short of the design.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have re-levelled, and all that basic stuff.&#xA;I have checked that it has the latest firmware.&#xA;I have tried different slicers, and they all have the same issue, so I'm pretty sure it's not a slicing issue.&#xA;Similarly, I have tried different line heights. (0.05 mm, 0.025 mm, etc.), they still come short, and still lose the first 0.6 mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There seems very little of any practical nature that can be done to fix this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has anyone experienced similar, on this or other resin printers, and has anyone discovered a fix? Or have any worthwhile suggestions?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40584" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2023-11-22T05:55:17.540" LastActivityDate="2023-11-22T05:55:17.540" Title="Creality Halot One Z axis inaccuracy" Tags="|z-axis|resin|creality-halot-one|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21664" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2023-11-21T16:26:08.373" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="4762" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2023-11-21T16:26:08.373" LastActivityDate="2023-11-21T16:26:08.373" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21665" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2023-11-21T16:26:08.373" Score="0" Body="Firmware for Ender 3 V2" OwnerUserId="4762" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2023-11-21T16:26:08.373" LastActivityDate="2023-11-21T16:26:08.373" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21666" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21661" CreationDate="2023-11-22T08:32:09.353" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Input shaping in 3D printers is typically implemented prior to the actual printing operation, not in real-time. It's based on the known characteristics of the printer rather than dynamic adjustments made during printing. This requires to be set-up and determined before printing. The printer's firmware is where you can define input-shaping.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;3D printer firmware based input shaping&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The resonant frequencies of the printer are determined through test prints and input into the firmware. The firmware then automatically applies the necessary adjustments to the motion commands during the printing process (it reads the G-code and applies the algorithms on motion changes). This is still not real-time adjustment; it's a predefined modification based on the printer's known characteristics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Real-time or not?&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Input shaping is not a real-time control system that dynamically adjusts to changing conditions during a print. Instead, it's a method of optimizing the printer's motion commands based on its known mechanical properties and behavior (hardware determined). Why not real-time? Real-time control for input shaping in 3D printing would be complex and would require additional sensors and processing capabilities (controller board). The printer would need to continuously monitor its own vibrations and adjust its movements on the fly, which is not typically feasible with current consumer level 3D printing technology.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2023-11-22T12:48:29.003" LastActivityDate="2023-11-22T12:48:29.003" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21667" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21553" CreationDate="2023-11-22T16:08:22.553" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have successfully printed several things on a Creality Ender 3 V2 with Marlin 2.x firmware using the newly supported &lt;a href=&quot;https://ultimaker.com/learn/tree-supports-what-are-they-and-how-do-they-work/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Tree Supports using the free Ultimaker Cura Slicer 5.5&lt;/a&gt; as shown below:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Pfz9Gm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Pfz9Gm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Tree Support&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Those supports are basically all overhangs and very easy to remove afterwards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36802" LastActivityDate="2023-11-22T16:08:22.553" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21668" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21670" CreationDate="2023-11-22T22:49:02.310" Score="4" ViewCount="446" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an odd issue with Creality Slicer 4.8 (Cura slicer?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It wants to cut up my model and add surfaces that do not exist in the model.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These screenshots are without infill or support:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JsvzM.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JsvzM.png&quot; alt=&quot;Head displaying cut surface&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jIX6P.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jIX6P.png&quot; alt=&quot;layer 824&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/E9d7u.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/E9d7u.png&quot; alt=&quot;layer 821&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wire mesh view from behind and to the left (Blender)&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ySkGP.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ySkGP.png&quot; alt=&quot;Blender wire mesh&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I assume that since this model is a base 3D model from a game with the body, clothes, hairstyle, etc put on top, that I have overlooked something which is being interpreted as a surface break. I had a similar problem with the dress and boots, which I solved by tediously removing the inner details.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have removed the back part of the &amp;quot;skull&amp;quot; and the top of the neck, trying to closed any gaps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JHjp5.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JHjp5.png&quot; alt=&quot;solid and wireframe - blender&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://test.stevnsvig.com/priestess_4_8.stl&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;STL&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do I fix this issue?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am printing on a Creality Ender 2.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40594" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2023-11-22T23:08:46.580" LastActivityDate="2023-11-23T11:04:44.933" Title="Issues with slicer creating gaps with surfaces that are not in the model" Tags="|3d-models|slicing|creality-ender-2|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21669" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-11-23T10:15:39.923" Score="0" ViewCount="43" Body="&lt;p&gt;One may wish to identify resin with identical, or close to physical properties that could be used as a substitute for any specific type of resin, without the need to change other attributes. To use purely as an example, Elegoo Standard Gray Resin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There exist multiple printers in multiple locations, from different manufacturers, which have each been calibrated to print with Elegoo standard  gray resin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Printers are often calibrated based on the properties of a specific resin, but also based on the individual characteristics of the printer and the environmental factors of the area in which they are located. For example, slower lift times for those located in an area that has to be kept cooler, and faster for areas that are kept warmer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The goal is to identify a resin that can be seamlessly exchanged once existing stock of the manufacturer specified resin are depleted, without the need to adjust or recalibrate anything, and without a loss of quality.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A good answer will be based on personal experience and specific use case, and will provide examples of fundamental similarities between products.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A bad answer will be a copy and paste of a data sheet in which a manufacturer states that that a product has similar properties, or anything that states &amp;quot;just google it&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="29097" LastEditorUserId="6996" LastEditDate="2023-12-01T12:40:28.903" LastActivityDate="2023-12-01T12:40:28.903" Title="How can I match the properties of a specific resin, outside of the manufacturer's specification?" Tags="|resin|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="12" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21670" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21668" CreationDate="2023-11-23T10:42:24.600" Score="5" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Some Surfaces are likely inverted - which needs to be made visible.&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To see that in blender, you need to turn on &amp;quot;surface normals&amp;quot;. The blue spikes should go out of the surfaces, showing the item is properly aligned.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gPihm.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gPihm.png&quot; alt=&quot;position of surface normals in edit mode&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To flip those surfaces and make all show into the same direction, follow for example this answer &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11013/slicer-is-adding-additional-floor-bed/14309#14309&quot;&gt;Slicer is adding additional floor bed&lt;/a&gt; - the relevant part for it here:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Enter Edit mode&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;code&gt;A&lt;/code&gt; to select everything&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;code&gt;ALT&lt;/code&gt; + &lt;code&gt;N&lt;/code&gt; to recalculate normals&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another way to get the normals displayed is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;code&gt;N&lt;/code&gt; then under &lt;code&gt;Mesh Display &amp;gt; Normals&lt;/code&gt; hook &lt;code&gt;Faces&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2023-11-23T11:04:44.933" LastActivityDate="2023-11-23T11:04:44.933" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21671" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-11-15T20:56:56.590" Score="0" ViewCount="1633" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought a Creality K1 3D printer and used it without any problems, with great results, so I decided to buy a camera, specific to the model, which is capable of showing in real time how the print is going and generating timelapses. When it arrived, I installed it and opened the Creality cloud website, where I can see my printer information online, and the camera was detected but kept loading infinitely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried to contact support but the information they gave me was like: restart the machine, disconnect and connect the camera, reinstall the firmware, change the WiFi. I tried all of this and nothing worked, I decided to download the &amp;quot;standard&amp;quot; slicing app for this printer, the Creality slicer, I configured the printer and was able to connect it via IP and see the information, to my surprise the camera works in the slicer app, but not on the website, so the camera is working correctly, and the problem could be a connection problem between my printer and Creality Cloud, I would like to know if there could be some type of port or IP permission, or firewall that is preventing the printer from sending the camera image to the website.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="icaroi771" LastEditorUserId="36802" LastEditDate="2023-11-24T17:10:19.683" LastActivityDate="2023-11-24T17:10:19.683" Title="What can cause my Creality K1 Camera not to be shown in Creality Cloud?" Tags="|creality|creality-k1|camera|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21672" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22928" CreationDate="2023-11-24T12:41:17.290" Score="3" ViewCount="76" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm exploring the concept of Pressure Advance and its ability to predict and adjust pressure changes in the extruder. The image below shows the effects of Pressure Advance:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/K6udfl.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/K6udfl.png&quot; alt=&quot;Pressure Advance aims to make printed lines more consistent&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Source: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n3yK0lJ8TWM&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Teaching Tech via YouTube&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since there are no pressure measurements performed, how does Pressure Advance algorithmically anticipate these pressure variations without real-time pressure data? Which underlying principles are used to estimate the pressure in advance?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36802" LastEditorUserId="36802" LastEditDate="2024-01-09T12:43:33.247" LastActivityDate="2024-01-09T19:20:55.457" Title="How does pressure advance predict pressure without having actual pressure data?" Tags="|extrusion|nozzle|pressure-advance|pressure-prediction|pressure|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21673" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21292" CreationDate="2023-11-24T16:44:46.927" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Having your printer properly calibrated, trammed and leveled and your bed perfectly cleaned is perhaps the most important, as well as using the proper z-offset, rods lubricated, relatively stable room temperature, for example not printing in front of an open window where wind at a different outdoor temperature can blow directly on your printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some other potential solutions and considerations:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Bed Temperature&lt;/strong&gt;: Slightly increase the bed temperature for the first few layers (up to 60°C for PLA) to enhance adhesion, then reduce it to the standard temperature for the subsequent layers. This can make a significant difference in the initial adhesion of small parts.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Adhesion Enhancers&lt;/strong&gt;: Use adhesives such as glue stick or hairspray on the bed.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Print Speed and Cooling Adjustments&lt;/strong&gt;: Reduce the printing speed for the first few layers to allow better adhesion. Simultaneously, minimize or turn off cooling fans for these initial layers. This ensures that the material has adequate time to bond to the bed before cooling and solidifying.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These methods are focused on enhancing the initial layer's adhesion to the bed, which is critical when printing multiple small parts. You probably need to experiment with these adjustments to find the optimal balance for your specific printer, filament and environment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36802" LastActivityDate="2023-11-24T16:44:46.927" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21674" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21696" CreationDate="2023-11-24T17:58:45.553" Score="1" ViewCount="244" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a tooth and a nerve inside it as two different objects.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first picture is a molar tooth and the second image is a nerve inside the molar tooth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is; how to generate supports so that the nerve inside the molar tooth will be printed out? (3D printing object inside another object)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The purpose of the aim is to use the printed object as patient education material. (Not for sale)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EqflF.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;3D model of a molar&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EqflF.png&quot; alt=&quot;3D model of a molar&quot; title=&quot;3D model of a molar&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dXRXO.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;3D model of a nerve inside of a molar&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dXRXO.png&quot; alt=&quot;3D model of a nerve inside of a molar&quot; title=&quot;3D model of a nerve inside of a molar&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23759" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2023-11-25T05:00:24.047" LastActivityDate="2023-12-16T07:56:55.097" Title="How do I 3D print an object inside another object?" Tags="|3d-design|support-structures|prusaslicer|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21675" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20857" CreationDate="2023-11-24T20:37:34.043" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Copying all the files to my computer and then reformatting the microSD as FAT32 worked for my 3D printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40616" LastActivityDate="2023-11-24T20:37:34.043" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21677" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-11-26T05:21:04.263" Score="0" ViewCount="61" Body="&lt;p&gt;The issue appears on my Creality Ender 3 Pro only after the pause, but it seems to correct itself after a while. From what I know, it seems most likely under extrusion. I've tried purges, still same issue. I only need this feature to drop nuts in a print. The part separates at exactly where I paused. It also looks &lt;strong&gt;exactly&lt;/strong&gt; the same each time on the inside, with there being gaps between the layers (looks like under extrusion essentially).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So far I have managed to try:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;writing a custom purge line (like the one at the beginning of all prints) - the purge line looks beautiful on the bed but then on the print it still under extrudes.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pushing 50 mm of filament after a reheat, but before it restarts. - It still under extrudes&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Slowing the print to as low as 50 % speed when restarting&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bonus points I tried these things too when I thought it could be bad adhesion on restart:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Turn the part cooling fans off for 1 layer before and 2 layers after&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Increase temperature of hotend by up to 15 °C (in increments of 5)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Restarted the print immediately&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The part separates here each time.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/y7F8W.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/y7F8W.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;The part separates here each time.&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But the print seems mostly fine before the pause.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Mg4OH.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Mg4OH.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;But the print seems mostly fine before the pause.&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then after its just not looking to great for a while.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GTRWL.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GTRWL.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Then after its just not looking to great for a while.&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40629" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2023-11-26T07:29:03.037" LastActivityDate="2023-12-17T23:59:10.910" Title="Under extrusion? Only after a pause at layer height!" Tags="|creality-ender-3|underextrusion|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21678" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20778" CreationDate="2023-11-26T23:16:11.147" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Figured this out a while ago, but I thought I might as well update this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the issue was simply there was not enough tension, and that pretty much solved all the problems. I also did end up using an E3D v6 1.75 mm hotend.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Right now, I'm working on making it print faster. I am using klipper on a Raspberry Pi Zero W, and I'm playing with different fan ducts to improve part cooling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37597" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2023-11-27T04:57:24.707" LastActivityDate="2023-11-27T04:57:24.707" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21679" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21700" CreationDate="2023-11-27T10:27:04.893" Score="5" ViewCount="59" Body="&lt;p&gt;My heaterblock is in a poor state after the heater malfunction. Before I'll buy a spare, I want to ask what material is the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.prusa3d.com/product/hotend-heaterblock-e3d/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;original block&lt;/a&gt; made of? I don't see it on the product page.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Available spares and replacements are made of aluminum, brass, and copper, the latter two in plated and not plated versions. Original is, obviously, aluminum or plated something. Aluminum 3rd party replacements are 10 times cheaper than brass or copper ones. So, before I'll buy expensive one, I want to know if I really have to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If original is aluminum, the supplemental question would be why to buy plated copper despite the price difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20803" LastActivityDate="2023-11-29T17:21:09.983" Title="What material is Prusa mk3s+ hotend heaterblock made of?" Tags="|prusa-i3|hotend|replacement-parts|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21680" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21589" CreationDate="2023-11-27T12:20:24.820" Score="1" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Print material matters more&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Non-abrasive materials can leave a soft brass nozzle live for dozens of filament spools without noticeable degradation, especially if the nozzle tip is hot enough to keep it above melting point and does not scrape over cooler areas. However, &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/18217/does-abrasive-filament-require-a-special-hotend/18220#18220&quot;&gt;abrasive filaments&lt;/a&gt; can eat a nozzle within just a couple gross meters. One of the worst offenders is &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/14803/preventing-my-printer-nozzle-from-getting-too-dull-from-nothing-but-pla-filamen/14813#14813&quot;&gt;Carbon-Fiber&lt;/a&gt; or Glass-Fiber infused material, requiring, for example, ruby-tipped nozzles, or &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11290/what-is-the-purpose-behind-a-glass-nozzle/11297#11297&quot;&gt;glass-nozzles&lt;/a&gt; to withstand more than about 300 meters (~2 Gross).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/14402/how-do-i-know-if-a-filament-is-abrasive&quot;&gt;any filled filament&lt;/a&gt; is abrasive to some degree, and nobody advertises with the fact that the filament is abrasive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Nozzle formfactor impact&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A larger nozzle allows the extrusion of more plastic per time. The plastic itself, as it cools, can act as an abrasive itself. So to a degree, nozzle geometry will have an impact on the print. A flat around the nozzle orifice such as with the venerable e3D v6 nozzle design can help in keeping the orifice intact a little longer (as the nozzle has more thermal mass and can press down the filament further away from the orifice), but a thinner tip has other benefits (such as reacting faster to temperature change) at the cost of longevity in this one regard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Nozzle diameter impact?&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Typically, nozzles wear much faster and lose their tip from grinding on the printed material than that the material getting pushed through them starts to bore out the nozzle. This can be seen very well in &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uvlMeTnjriQ&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;the experiments Stefan/CNC Kitchen conducted.&lt;/a&gt; Also &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ODQoQd-0ky&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2023-11-27T13:39:33.560" LastActivityDate="2023-11-27T13:39:33.560" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21681" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21763" CreationDate="2023-11-27T14:06:30.703" Score="2" ViewCount="457" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4D9XwclutOo&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;YouTube video 'PID vs MPC'&lt;/a&gt; from Mark Misin Engineering Ltd perfectly demonstrates that Model Predictive Temperature Control (MPC) is more powerful than Proportional-Integral-Derivative (PID). Marlin implemented MPC as described in &lt;a href=&quot;https://marlinfw.org/docs/features/model_predictive_control.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Marlin's MPC documentation&lt;/a&gt;. The Marlin-based firmware version I use also describes MPC in the &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/mriscoc/Special_Configurations/releases/tag/MPC&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;mriscoc MPC documentation&lt;/a&gt; and as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the latest releases, MPC is being incorporated in all versions. MPC has proven to be a better algorithm for keeping the nozzle temperature stable, and it is also very useful for high-power heaters.&lt;br&gt;&lt;sub&gt;Source: &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/mriscoc/Ender3V2S1/wiki#model-predictive-temperature-control-mpc&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;GitHub mriscoc repository for Ender 3 V2/S1&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since 3D printers, especially the heated parts (bed and nozzle), are relatively simple, with only simple control and sensor readings, why &lt;strong&gt;exactly&lt;/strong&gt; is MPC a better choice than PID? And why is it more useful for 'high-power heaters'?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36802" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2023-11-27T14:50:42.390" LastActivityDate="2023-12-07T04:25:29.733" Title="Why is MPC better than PID for 3D printers, and (why) is it more useful for 'high-power heaters'?" Tags="|marlin|temperature|pid|mriscoc|mpc|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21682" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21598" CreationDate="2023-11-27T14:58:23.513" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It can save prints in specific situations. If you set maximum temperature lower than the one configured in the firmware, and configure the command set to cause printer to stop heating instead of stopping altogether, it is possible that plugin will stop printer from overheating before printer will panic and stop mid-print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This, of course, does not replace other protections, but I recently lost a couple of hours of printing due to stupid error on my part, and this plugin might have prevented it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It shouldn't be used instead of firmware protection. But I can see how it can be use to supplement it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20803" LastActivityDate="2023-11-27T14:58:23.513" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21683" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21688" CreationDate="2023-11-27T19:22:34.770" Score="1" ViewCount="152" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm using Cura Thumbnails using a plugin in Cura 5.5. Also, I use the Marlin-based mriscoc firmware on a Creality Ender 3 V2 with OctoPrint using OctoPi on a Raspberry Pi 4.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The firmware supposedly supports Thumbnail's preview when printed from an SD card, although I never tried. I can also view the Thumbnail in the OctoPrint UI. I print only using USB, controlled by OctoPrint on my Raspberry Pi.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it possible to send the Thumbnail to the printer LCD when a print is started from OctoPrint? In a similar way to how I have to add 'Show Progress on printer LCD' using a Cura plugin to follow the progress on the printer LCD when OctoPrint controls it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36802" LastActivityDate="2023-11-28T04:34:52.430" Title="Is there a way to send a thumbnail to the printer LCD screen when printing over USB from OctoPrint?" Tags="|marlin|octoprint|usb|mriscoc|octopi|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21684" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-11-27T19:55:06.927" Score="0" ViewCount="44" Body="&lt;p&gt;In addition to the question: &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/3604/36802&quot;&gt;Can I really throw failed PLA prints on compost?&lt;/a&gt; and anything else I've read about PLA biodegradability, what &lt;strong&gt;exact&lt;/strong&gt; conditions are needed to achieve this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I mean, oxygen can be bought, and exposure to high temperatures for a specific time or light conditions can be arranged in a DIY matter. So, what conditions need to be met precisely to achieve PLA biodegradation? So far, I've never seen anyone provide a comprehensive list of required conditions or a DIY method.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36802" LastEditorUserId="36802" LastEditDate="2024-01-24T17:51:04.767" LastActivityDate="2024-01-24T17:51:04.767" Title="What conditions need to be met precisely to achieve PLA biodegradation?" Tags="|pla|filament|recycling|biodegradability|composting|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21685" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-11-27T20:09:42.800" Score="1" ViewCount="37" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm setting up multiple cameras; I have two running: one camera moving with the bed (static distance to the print) and one camera on the frame (stationary to the printer). I will add a third camera later, an endoscope nozzle camera.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I have several issues with this, mainly lighting, such as too much reflection on the bed and too much shadows. What is the best position and direction to add (diffused) light to my Creality Ender 3 V2 to highlight the print as much as possible without too much shadow and light reflection?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Two examples&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Too much shadow, from a Logitech C920 camera mounted to the frame of an Creality Ender 3 V2:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sQ7jS.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sQ7jS.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Too much light reflection (on the print in this case) and shadow, from a Raspberry Pi v1.3 camera mounted to the bed of another Creality Ender 3 V2:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/69Yo2.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/69Yo2.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36802" LastEditorUserId="36802" LastEditDate="2023-12-29T00:54:43.287" LastActivityDate="2023-12-29T00:54:43.287" Title="What are the best light positions and directions to highlight the print and reduce shadow and light reflection on my OctoPi cameras?" Tags="|octoprint|camera|octopi|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21686" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21687" CreationDate="2023-11-27T23:30:23.550" Score="2" ViewCount="74" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got a line with a point constrained to it.  I would like to split my line at the point.  The &amp;quot;Split Edge&amp;quot; tool will allow me to split the line anywhere but at that point.  How can I split at line at an existing point?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EYOb4.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EYOb4.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40651" LastActivityDate="2023-11-28T19:20:30.370" Title="How can I split at line at an already existing point?" Tags="|freecad|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ClosedDate="2023-12-01T13:52:18.077" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21687" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21686" CreationDate="2023-11-27T23:36:11.593" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I figured it out.  Splitting at that specific point makes no sense because the split wouldn't be constrained to it at all.  It would just be confusing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The way to do this is to split somewhere else on the line, then constrain the split point to the existing point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40651" LastActivityDate="2023-11-27T23:36:11.593" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21688" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21683" CreationDate="2023-11-28T01:10:15.417" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, it is currently not possible to see the thumbnail in the printer screen if the G-code is being printed from a host like Octoprint. It is technically possible if the same G-code exists on the SD card or if the user can wait about 5 to 10 minutes for the binary jpeg image to be transferred to the SD card using the serial protocol. But I don't think it's worth the effort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36724" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2023-11-28T04:34:52.430" LastActivityDate="2023-11-28T04:34:52.430" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21689" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21660" CreationDate="2023-11-28T01:23:28.260" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Currently Marlin does not provide a way to get the resonance frequencies by using an accelerometer and possibly never will because of the lack of resources in current printer boards. You can get those values by other medium and save them as Marlin IS parameters. It is possible to estimate the resonance frequencies by test prints.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36724" LastActivityDate="2023-11-28T01:23:28.260" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21691" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23037" CreationDate="2023-11-28T11:01:08.587" Score="1" ViewCount="91" Body="&lt;p&gt;Why do most slicers slice, and printers print in 2.5D, a planar method, rather than an actual 3D non-planar method? Doesn't this mainly come down to slicer software limitations rather than hardware limitations?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The results, in many cases, seem so much better. As shown below:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dqaOx.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dqaOx.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;planar vs. non-planar prints&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pK2MW.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pK2MW.png&quot; alt=&quot;planar vs. non-planar prints&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36802" LastEditorUserId="36802" LastEditDate="2024-02-01T18:52:34.573" LastActivityDate="2024-02-04T18:29:59.290" Title="Why is 'planar-2.5D-slicing' most commonly used instead of 'non-planar-3D-slicing'?" Tags="|slicing|fdm|planar|non-planar|2.5d|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21692" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18610" CreationDate="2023-11-28T12:32:59.633" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, you can use your BLTouch to assist with 'manual leveling', if your firmware supports it. To avoid confusion, the proper term for 'manually leveling' is 'bed tramming'. Some firmware has a 'Bed Tramming Wizard' like the &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/mriscoc/Ender3V2S1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Marlin-based mriscoc firmware&lt;/a&gt;. The &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/mriscoc/Ender3V2S1/wiki/Bed-tramming-menu&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;mriscoc's Bed Tramming Wizard&lt;/a&gt; is well documented.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Below is an example of how it would look on an Ender 3 V2 or S1.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kvYKZ.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kvYKZ.png&quot; alt=&quot;Bed Tramming Corners Not Leveled&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3jzuy.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3jzuy.png&quot; alt=&quot;Bed Tramming Corners Leveled&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36802" LastEditorUserId="36802" LastEditDate="2023-12-29T00:28:45.260" LastActivityDate="2023-12-29T00:28:45.260" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21693" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3098" CreationDate="2023-11-28T13:03:25.910" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some more details about &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/3098/how-can-i-determine-whether-my-borosilicate-glass-is-fake-or-not#comment11269_7157&quot;&gt;a suggestion&lt;/a&gt; made to the answer on &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/3098/how-can-i-determine-whether-my-borosilicate-glass-is-fake-or-not/7157#7157&quot;&gt;How can I determine whether my borosilicate glass is fake or not?&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Submerging the glass in mineral oil should make it disappear if it is borosilicate glass, as demonstrated below. This phenomenon is known as &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Index-matching_material&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;the &amp;quot;index matching&amp;quot; effect&lt;/a&gt;. The index of refraction of borosilicate glass is n=1.47, and that of mineral oil is also around n=1.47, depending on the type of mineral oil used. However, as mentioned in &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/3098/how-can-i-determine-whether-my-borosilicate-glass-is-fake-or-not/21693#comment40845_21693&quot;&gt;this comment&lt;/a&gt;, other types of glass might have a similar or close refraction index, making it hard to distinguish borosilicate from non-borosilicate using this test alone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The borosilicate glass and the oil have roughly the same index of refraction. When this beaker is immersed into a container of oil, the beaker becomes invisible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ol9f3.gif&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;An animated GIF of a small beaker inside of a larger beaker and cooking oil being poured into the smaller beaker overflowing into the larger&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ol9f3.gif&quot; alt=&quot;An animated GIF of a small beaker inside of a larger beaker and cooking oil being poured into the smaller beaker overflowing into the larger&quot; title=&quot;An animated GIF of a small beaker inside of a larger beaker and cooking oil being poured into the smaller beaker overflowing into the larger&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Source: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.teachersource.com/product/the-disappearing-beaker&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;The Disappearing Beaker Experiment&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36802" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2023-11-28T15:01:00.803" LastActivityDate="2023-11-28T15:01:00.803" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21694" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19087" CreationDate="2023-11-28T21:03:43.167" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's not a direct answer to the question but rather an alternative worth mentioning in this context. Avoid saving your password in plain text on the SD card of the Raspberry Pi by not to use WiFi and using an ethernet cable instead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36802" LastEditorUserId="36802" LastEditDate="2023-12-09T00:49:17.093" LastActivityDate="2023-12-09T00:49:17.093" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21695" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-11-29T09:00:16.190" Score="1" ViewCount="102" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to the Oxford Dictionary (Google), the definition of &lt;strong&gt;biodegradability&lt;/strong&gt; is as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(of a substance or object) capable of being decomposed by bacteria or other living organisms and thereby avoiding pollution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The definition for the term &lt;strong&gt;composting&lt;/strong&gt; is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;make (vegetable matter) into compost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The definition for the term &lt;strong&gt;compost&lt;/strong&gt; is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;decayed organic material used as a fertilizer for growing plants.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The defintion for the term &lt;strong&gt;decomposing&lt;/strong&gt; is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(of organic matter) in the process of decaying.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The general assumption is that &amp;quot;PLA can decompose in nature&amp;quot;. However, it's no secret that PLA is only &lt;strong&gt;degradable&lt;/strong&gt; under particular industry conditions, presumable using bacteria or other living organisms. Otherwise, it wouldn't even meet the definition &lt;strong&gt;bio&lt;/strong&gt;degradable. The terms composting, compost, and decomposing do not apply to PLA, despite many speaking and writing about it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the very least, either the general understanding of the term &amp;quot;biodegradable&amp;quot; is wrong, or the term &lt;strong&gt;biodegradable&lt;/strong&gt; is misleading, perhaps even greenwashing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Related: &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/2EQ5fEbBt2Q?si=q9Wky4gahESOdkC_&amp;amp;t=395&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;TEDx: Will PHA Replace All Plastic? Nouf Alhazmi&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36802" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2023-11-29T15:35:22.960" LastActivityDate="2023-12-02T02:27:15.280" Title="Is the term 'biodegradable' in the context of PLA misleading or misunderstood when industrial conditions are required to achieve it?" Tags="|pla|terminology|biodegradability|composting|degradability|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21696" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21674" CreationDate="2023-11-29T09:30:30.627" Score="2" Body="&lt;h2&gt;With great difficulty&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Problems&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From your tags, it looks like you want to use FDM process. Unless you have mastered &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.printables.com/model/15310-how-to-print-glass&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;How To Print Glass&lt;/a&gt; technique, you can forget about the inside model being visible in the outside one. Even if you did, I have never seen anyone manage to make it work with multicolor / multimaterial printers. That is, if you even have one, most of the people do not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The best translucency I was able to get using FDM is this:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8B7e6.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8B7e6.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Photo of a sample&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Printing two models separately and making them fit perfectly is another can of worms. Printers have limited accuracy. Materials have shrinkage that &lt;em&gt;is&lt;/em&gt; different in different colors, if ever so slightly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;My solution&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Print one transparent part, with a hole in the shape of the inside part. Then, fill it with UV resin or paint. If possible, use transparent resin instead of FDM - you will get good enough transparency without a need to tune your printer and polish surfaces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's not something I have tried, but indeed something I planned*.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;* printing &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.printables.com/model/273948-test-model-for-transparent-petg-printing&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;code&gt;TransparentTestPart_0.12mm_PETG_MK3S_50m.gcode&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/a&gt; now, as I write this answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20803" LastEditorUserId="20803" LastEditDate="2023-11-29T10:39:51.657" LastActivityDate="2023-11-29T10:39:51.657" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21697" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21674" CreationDate="2023-11-29T10:54:48.540" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Transparency is interesting, but maybe one of the following options, for the purpose of inspiration, is more achievable:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;An anatomical model&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A model consisting of different parts that can be taken apart for demonstration. Printed or painted in multiple colors. Such as:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QC3ei.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Photo of an anatomical model of a molar tooth with caries&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QC3ei.png&quot; alt=&quot;Photo of an anatomical model of a molar tooth with caries&quot; title=&quot;Photo of an anatomical model of a molar tooth with caries&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Source: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.mentone-educational.com.au/anatomy-models/teeth/molar-tooth-with-caries&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Mentone Educational&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;A cross-sectional model&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A model that is cut in half, showing the insides. If printed in the right orientation, multi-color prints can, to some extent, be achieved by changing the colors at a certain layer, or by painting. Such as:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UzHJB.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;A 3D model of tooth anatomy&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UzHJB.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;A 3D model of tooth anatomy&quot; title=&quot;A 3D model of tooth anatomy&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Source: &lt;a href=&quot;https://free3d.com/3d-model/tooth-anatomy-3258.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Free3D&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36802" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2023-11-29T15:33:13.533" LastActivityDate="2023-11-29T15:33:13.533" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21698" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21699" CreationDate="2023-11-29T11:46:07.370" Score="2" ViewCount="335" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just as the title says - I'm in the need of a new heater block, and need to decide which one to buy. Plated copper is 10 times more expensive now, at least where I live (70 PLN &lt;em&gt;which is about 16 Euro or 18 USD&lt;/em&gt; vs 7 PLN for aluminum), but in the scale of the cost of a printer, difference is negligible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Copper has better thermal transfer, but it also has a greater thermal mass, so it heats up and cools down slower, but should be able to melt plastic faster. Or so it seems. I don't know how these theoretical properties translate into practical pros and cons for 3D printing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not looking for &amp;quot;buy this&amp;quot; answer. I'm looking for comparison that will let me, and future readers, make informed decision.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20803" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2023-11-29T11:58:47.650" LastActivityDate="2024-01-24T08:58:26.800" Title="What are the differences between aluminum and copper heater block and why would I use one vs another?" Tags="|heat-management|replacement-parts|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21699" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21698" CreationDate="2023-11-29T14:50:12.857" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The choice depends on the application you have in mind, but basically you can look at the properties of copper and aluminium to find out what may be better for your application.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Dynamics&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Copper is about 3 times heavier, this potentially increases the weigth of the hot end and as such increases the change to have more issues with e.g. ringing for a similar sized heater blocks&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Thermodynamics&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Maximum temperature can be higher for copper, the melting temperature is almost twice the value for aluminium (in printing in excess of 320 °C you want to use a copper heater block)&lt;sup&gt;&lt;em&gt;1)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Heat conductivity for copper is almost twice the value of that of aluminium, it conducts heat much better, so the block is more evenly heated.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Heat capacity of copper is almsot half of that of aluminium, so it requires more energy to heat up the same amount of mass. Specific heat or heat capacity of aluminum is  0.90 J/(g °C); for copper it is 0.385 J/(g °C). To heat up the  same amount of mass you'll need a little over twice the amount of energy, or with a given influx it will take more time. As we can assume the volume of the heatblocks is the same, the mass of the copper block will be higher and therefore will take even more time to heat up.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Copper can be nickel coated/plated, this creates a surface that is less prone for filament to get stuck on and is more easy to cleam with isopropanol alcohol.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A copper heater block may help keep temperatures more stable, but this is already done by the printer controller board (PID tuning). Generally, it will not help with a higher flow rate, since plastic thermal conductivity is the limiting factor here, not the heater block. For increased flow application you should go to a (Super)Volcano heater block; for a smaller volumetric flow increase one could use e.g. CHT style nozzles (effectively increased the filament contact area with the nozzle/heater block.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically, using a copper heater block is advised when printing at high temperatures (&amp;gt; 320 °) for prolonged times.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1)&lt;/sup&gt; Aluminum heater blocks begin to degrade above 350 °C, while a copper alloy doesn't even begin to soften until way beyond 500 °C&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2023-11-29T14:50:12.857" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21700" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21679" CreationDate="2023-11-29T17:21:09.983" Score="5" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Aluminum&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At 9.20 grams (around 0.32 ounces) including screws and some soot I wasn't able to clean out, it can't be anything but aluminum.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/whrle.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/whrle.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Photo of the block on a scale&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20803" LastActivityDate="2023-11-29T17:21:09.983" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21701" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-11-29T17:36:04.277" Score="0" ViewCount="40" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Dq4KV.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Dq4KV.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;I have a large part, a chute that measures 638.54 × 152 × 369.05 mm, with a 2 or 3 mm wall thickness.  This part was originally was ABS that was injection molded.  Smoothness is required on the inside of the chute and rigidity is important as it could be removed several times per week.  I can have it printed in Nylon PA12 with either MJF or SLS or in ABS with the FDM process with 100 % infill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had one printed in Somos Evolve material and it was much too weak and could break easily.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the best recommendation for material/process that could replace this ABS injection molded part?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40663" LastEditorUserId="40663" LastEditDate="2023-11-30T11:40:41.243" LastActivityDate="2023-11-30T12:53:47.067" Title="Processes &amp; Materials for Part" Tags="|fdm|abs|nylon|sls|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21702" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-11-29T17:58:42.610" Score="0" ViewCount="34" Body="&lt;p&gt;The extruder motors of my Zonestar Z9V5 Pro are rotating in the wrong direction, removing the filaments instead of pushing. Someone can help me solve this. Software is up to date.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40665" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2023-11-29T18:19:53.700" LastActivityDate="2023-11-29T18:19:53.700" Title="Extruder motor moves in the wrong direction" Tags="|extruder|zonestar-z9v5-pro|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2023-12-13T21:45:42.020" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21703" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21704" CreationDate="2023-11-29T21:19:31.243" Score="2" ViewCount="209" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to modify this code to create a small 2 mm x 2 mm hole on the short side of the box (to fit 2 wires coming out of a battery):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;// Which one would you like to see?&#xA;part = &amp;quot;both&amp;quot;; // [box:Box only, top: Top cover only, both: Box and top cover]&#xA;&#xA;// Size of your printer's nozzle in mm&#xA;nozzle_size = 0.35;&#xA;&#xA;// Number of walls the print should have&#xA;number_of_walls = 3; // [1:5]&#xA;&#xA;// Tolerance (use 0.2 for FDM)&#xA;tolerance = 0.2; // [0.1:0.1:0.4]&#xA;&#xA;// Interior dimension X in mm&#xA;interior_x=70;&#xA;&#xA;// Interior dimension Y in mm&#xA;interior_y=21;&#xA;&#xA;// Interior dimension Z in mm&#xA;interior_z=17;&#xA;&#xA;// interior corner radius in mm&#xA;radius=0; // [0:20]&#xA;&#xA;// What fraction of the flat X side should the hook take up? (0 for no hook)&#xA;x_hook_fraction = 0.5; // [0:0.1:1.0]&#xA;&#xA;// What fraction of the flat Y side should the hook take up? (0 for no hook)&#xA;y_hook_fraction = 0.5; // [0:0.1:1.0]&#xA;&#xA;// What fraction of the hooks should have a slot behind them? (0 for no slot)&#xA;slot_length = 0.7; // [0:0.1:1]&#xA;&#xA;/* Hidden */&#xA;$fn=100;&#xA;&#xA;wall_thickness=nozzle_size*number_of_walls;&#xA;&#xA;// Outer dimensions&#xA;x = interior_x + 2 * wall_thickness;&#xA;y = interior_y + 2 * wall_thickness;&#xA;z = interior_z + 2 * wall_thickness;&#xA;&#xA;hook_thickness = 3 * nozzle_size;&#xA;&#xA;top_cover_wall_thickness = hook_thickness + wall_thickness;&#xA;&#xA;y_hook_length = (y - 2 * radius) * y_hook_fraction;&#xA;x_hook_length = (x - 2 * radius) * x_hook_fraction;&#xA;&#xA;module box_interior () {&#xA;    offset(r=radius) {&#xA;        square([interior_x-2*radius, interior_y-2*radius], center=true);&#xA;    }&#xA;}&#xA;&#xA;module box_exterior () {&#xA;    offset(r=wall_thickness) {&#xA;        box_interior();&#xA;    }&#xA;}&#xA;&#xA;module bottom_box () {&#xA;    difference(){&#xA;        // Solid box&#xA;        linear_extrude(z-wall_thickness){&#xA;            box_exterior();&#xA;        }&#xA;        &#xA;        // Hollow out&#xA;        translate([0,0,wall_thickness]) linear_extrude(z){&#xA;            box_interior();&#xA;        }&#xA;        left_slot();&#xA;        rotate([180,180,0]) left_slot(); // right slot&#xA;        front_slot();&#xA;        rotate([180,180,0]) front_slot(); // back slot&#xA;    }&#xA;    left_hook(); // left hook&#xA;    rotate([180,180,0]) left_hook(); // right hook&#xA;    front_hook(); // front hook&#xA;    rotate([180,180,0]) front_hook(); // back hook&#xA;}&#xA;&#xA;module left_hook () {&#xA;    translate([(x-2*wall_thickness)/2,-y_hook_length/2,z-wall_thickness]) rotate([0,90,90]) {&#xA;        base_hook(y_hook_length);&#xA;    }&#xA;}&#xA;&#xA;module front_hook () {&#xA;    translate([-x_hook_length/2,-y/2+wall_thickness,z-wall_thickness]) rotate([90,90,90]) {&#xA;        base_hook(x_hook_length);&#xA;    }&#xA;}&#xA;&#xA;module base_hook (hook_length) {&#xA;    difference(){&#xA;        linear_extrude(hook_length){&#xA;            polygon(points=[[0,0],[2*hook_thickness,0],[hook_thickness,hook_thickness]]);&#xA;        }&#xA;        translate([hook_thickness, hook_thickness, 0]) rotate([45,0,0]) cube(2*hook_thickness, center=true);&#xA;        translate([hook_thickness, hook_thickness, hook_length]) rotate([45,0,0]) cube(2*hook_thickness, center=true);        &#xA;    }&#xA;}&#xA;&#xA;module left_slot () {&#xA;    slot_length = y_hook_length*slot_length;&#xA;    epsilon=2; // ensure it definitely protrudes&#xA;    translate([x/2+epsilon,-slot_length/2,z]) rotate([0,90,90]) {&#xA;        cube([2*hook_thickness, wall_thickness+epsilon, slot_length]);&#xA;    }&#xA;}&#xA;&#xA;module front_slot () {&#xA;    slot_length = x_hook_length*slot_length;&#xA;    epsilon=2; // ensure it definitely protrudes&#xA;    translate([-slot_length/2,-y/2-epsilon,z]) rotate([90,90,90]) {&#xA;        cube([2*hook_thickness, wall_thickness+epsilon, slot_length]);&#xA;    }&#xA;}&#xA;&#xA;module right_groove () {&#xA;    translate([-tolerance/2+(x-2*wall_thickness)/2,-y_hook_length/2,wall_thickness+hook_thickness*2]) rotate([0,90,90]) linear_extrude(y_hook_length) {&#xA;        base_groove();&#xA;    }&#xA;}&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;module front_groove () {&#xA;    translate([-x_hook_length/2,-y/2+wall_thickness+tolerance/2,wall_thickness+hook_thickness*2]) rotate([90,90,90]) linear_extrude(x_hook_length){&#xA;        base_groove();&#xA;    }&#xA;}&#xA;&#xA;module base_groove () {&#xA;    polygon(points=[[0,0],[0, -1], [2*hook_thickness, -1],[2*hook_thickness,0],[hook_thickness,hook_thickness]]);&#xA;}&#xA;&#xA;module top_cover () {&#xA;&#xA;    // Top face&#xA;    linear_extrude(wall_thickness) {&#xA;        box_exterior();&#xA;    }&#xA;    &#xA;    difference(){&#xA;        // Wall of top cover&#xA;        inset = wall_thickness + tolerance/2;&#xA;        linear_extrude(wall_thickness+hook_thickness*2){&#xA;            offset(r=-inset) {&#xA;                box_exterior();&#xA;            }&#xA;        }&#xA;        &#xA;        // Hollow out&#xA;        translate([0,0,wall_thickness]) linear_extrude(z){&#xA;            offset(r=-wall_thickness*2) {&#xA;                offset(r=-inset) {&#xA;                    box_exterior();&#xA;                }&#xA;            }&#xA;        }&#xA;        &#xA;        right_groove();&#xA;        rotate([180,180,0]) right_groove();&#xA;        front_groove();&#xA;        rotate([180,180,0])  front_groove();&#xA;    }&#xA;  &#xA;&#xA;}&#xA;&#xA;// left_hook();&#xA;print_part();&#xA;&#xA;module print_part() {&#xA;    if (part == &amp;quot;box&amp;quot;) {&#xA;        bottom_box();&#xA;    } else if (part == &amp;quot;top&amp;quot;) {&#xA;        top_cover();&#xA;    } else if (part == &amp;quot;both&amp;quot;) {&#xA;        both();&#xA;    } else {&#xA;        both();&#xA;    }&#xA;}&#xA;&#xA;module both() {&#xA;    translate([0,-(y/2+wall_thickness),0]) bottom_box();&#xA;    translate([0,+(y/2+wall_thickness),0]) top_cover();&#xA;}&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've tried something like this but it doesn't work:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;// Adding a hole to the short side of the box&#xA;translate([interior_x / 2, interior_y - hole_size / 2, interior_z / 2])&#xA;    cube([hole_size, hole_size, interior_z], center=true);&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2437" LastEditorUserId="2437" LastEditDate="2023-11-30T09:36:13.040" LastActivityDate="2023-12-18T23:27:50.763" Title="How to add a 2x2 mm hole to a SCAD file?" Tags="|3d-models|3d-design|openscad|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21704" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21703" CreationDate="2023-11-30T09:03:21.920" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can use the &lt;code&gt;difference()&lt;/code&gt; function in OpenSCAD to subtract one or more 3D shapes from another. Source: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.openscad.info/index.php/2020/05/14/difference/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;The documentation for the difference() function&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For reference, your code already does that several times. Something like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;module bottom_box () {&#xA;    difference(){&#xA;        // Existing code ...&#xA;&#xA;        // Subtract the hole&#xA;        translate([hole_position_x, hole_position_y, hole_position_z])&#xA;            cube([hole_size, hole_depth, hole_size], center=true);&#xA;    }&#xA;    // Rest of the code ...&#xA;}&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Two cube examples&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Below are two examples of a cube with and without a hole (in the bottom) that, for testing, can be rendered in your browser on &lt;a href=&quot;https://openscad.cloud/openscad/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;openscad.cloud&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h4&gt;1. Model without a hole&lt;/h4&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;cube_size = 20;&#xA;module simple_cube() {&#xA;    cube(cube_size);&#xA;}&#xA;simple_cube();&#xA;&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vXxbJ.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vXxbJ.png&quot; alt=&quot;model without a hole&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Example of &lt;a href=&quot;https://openscad.cloud/openscad/?&amp;amp;sharedFileLink=W3sibmFtZSI6Im1haW4uc2NhZCIsInR4dCI6ImN1YmVfc2l6ZSA9IDIwO1xubW9kdWxlIHNpbXBsZV9jdWJlKCkge1xuICAgIGN1YmUoY3ViZV9zaXplKTtcbiAgICB9XG4gICAgc2ltcGxlX2N1YmUoKTsifV0=&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;a model without a hole on openscad. cloud&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h4&gt;2. Model with a hole&lt;/h4&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;cube_size = 20;&#xA;hole_size = 2;&#xA;module cube_with_hole() {&#xA;    difference() {&#xA;        cube(cube_size);&#xA;        translate([cube_size / 2, cube_size / 2, 0])&#xA;        cube([hole_size, hole_size, cube_size], center=true);&#xA;    }&#xA;}&#xA;cube_with_hole();&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AOBew.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AOBew.png&quot; alt=&quot;model with a hole&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Example of a &lt;a href=&quot;https://openscad.cloud/openscad/?&amp;amp;sharedFileLink=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&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;model with a hole in the bottom on openscad. cloud&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36802" LastEditorUserId="36802" LastEditDate="2023-12-18T23:27:50.763" LastActivityDate="2023-12-18T23:27:50.763" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21705" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21706" CreationDate="2023-11-30T09:30:55.337" Score="0" ViewCount="89" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use the &lt;a href=&quot;https://plugins.octoprint.org/plugins/UltimakerFormatPackage/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Cura Thumbnails plugin&lt;/a&gt; to create and embed thumbnails in my G-code to view them using OctoPrint or my printer LCD. However, I recently found much higher quality Thumbnails that were generated using &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fast_approximate_anti-aliasing&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;fast approximate anti-aliasing (FXAA)&lt;/a&gt;. I was wondering if there is a way to enable or use another tool (slicer) to embed higher-quality thumbnails that were generated using anti-aliasing methods such as FXAA. For example, as generated by the tool &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/unlimitedbacon/stl-thumb/releases&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;unlimitedbacon/stl-thumb&lt;/a&gt; as shown below:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;An example of thumbnails generated with that tool:&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/u5SjE.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/u5SjE.png&quot; alt=&quot;example of generated thumbnails with st-thumb tool&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;An example of a thumbnail generated without and with FXAA:&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3I8L2.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3I8L2.png&quot; alt=&quot;example of thumbnail generated without FXAA and with FXAA&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36802" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2024-03-28T19:00:09.820" LastActivityDate="2024-03-28T19:00:09.820" Title="Are there any slicers that use anti-aliasing (such as FXAA) for higher quality thumbnail generation?" Tags="|slicing|thumbnail|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21706" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21705" CreationDate="2023-11-30T10:04:36.393" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;As of May 2023, Cura is working on it as described in &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/Ultimaker/Cura/issues/7447&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this Github issue Ultimaker/Cura/issues/7447&lt;/a&gt;. One &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/Ultimaker/Cura/issues/7447#issuecomment-1056931716&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;user suggests&lt;/a&gt; the use of the spatial anti-aliasing method &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Supersampling&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;supersampling anti-aliasing (SSAA)&lt;/a&gt; instead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36802" LastActivityDate="2023-11-30T10:04:36.393" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21707" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21701" CreationDate="2023-11-30T12:53:47.067" Score="2" Body="&lt;h2&gt;This shape wasn't designed for 3D printing&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some of your requirements are contradictory in 3D printing context.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Smoothness inside indicates that you need SLA or DLP process.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2mm walls will be too brittle using SLA/DLP.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Being able to be removed and reinstalled couple of times per week pretty much requires FDM with great layer adhesion.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sharp 90° angles we see on the picture exclude FDM print if you want it to be sturdy.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to print it, you need to redesign it in a way that will remove issues above - make walls thicker, chamfer or round all the 90° angles, and forgo the smoothness requirement on the inside, or figure a way to line it with something like automotive filling primer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;ABS Injection&lt;/strong&gt; is the only way to replicate it exactly and keep its functional parameters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Alternatively&lt;/strong&gt;, print a mold, and remake the item using carbon or glass fiber &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pre-preg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;pre-pregs&lt;/a&gt;. It will be light (carbon variant), extraordinarily sturdy and stiff, and you can use gelcoat or polishing to get it smoother than prints will ever be. You will still need to decide where shape of the internal surface is important, and where the outside takes precedence, and I still strongly recommend to round out all 90° angles, but rounding radius can be smaller, as long as you are comfortable with forcing pre-preg to follow it. It'll just make your life easier to have them larger.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a lot of tutorials on the Internet on how to do it, but I believe specific issue with this method belong to a follow-up question, not here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20803" LastActivityDate="2023-11-30T12:53:47.067" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21708" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21710" CreationDate="2023-11-30T12:56:20.580" Score="1" ViewCount="821" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Creality Ender 3 V3 SE, apart from auto bed leveling (ABL), also has a way to calculate the Z-offset automatically. A feature I didn't hear about before.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to a &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/EL8ehEYPTCk?si=zBleJJzLwV7a9PKw&amp;amp;t=312&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Maker's Muse video&lt;/a&gt;, it's based on a force sensor as shown below.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SdXDc.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SdXDc.png&quot; alt=&quot;'Force Sensor' in Creality Ender 3 V3 SE&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How does this concept work? How can a force sensor automatically determine the Z-offset?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36802" LastEditorUserId="36802" LastEditDate="2023-12-06T10:37:32.360" LastActivityDate="2023-12-06T10:37:32.360" Title="How can a force sensor automatically determine the Z-offset?" Tags="|creality-ender-3|automatic-bed-leveling|z-offset|sensors|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21709" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-11-30T13:09:35.497" Score="2" ViewCount="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a plastic squeezing up from the heatbreak thread. This indicates improper seal, but I have screwed everything together tightly. After disassembly, I realized I have a scuffed surface on my heatbreak. Sorry for the lack of photo, but I can't get it in focus. It's like if the bottom hole chipped out a little.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any reasonably easy and cheap way to get it perpendicular and smooth again? Or should I just not bother and replace it altogether?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20803" LastActivityDate="2023-11-30T13:09:35.497" Title="How to polish heatbreak surface?" Tags="|prusa-i3|replacement-parts|repair|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21710" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21708" CreationDate="2023-11-30T15:17:20.140" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Z-offset is the distance between the nozzle and the triggerpoint, see e.g. &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/16605/&quot;&gt;this answer&lt;/a&gt; of question &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/16604/automatic-bed-leveling-abl-with-a-sensor-bltouch-inductive-capacitive-how&quot;&gt;Automatic Bed Leveling (ABL) with a sensor (BLTouch, inductive, capacitive), how does it work?&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A &amp;quot;force sensor&amp;quot; as called in the question is actually a &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Strain_gauge&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;strain guage&lt;/a&gt;; deflection will cause a different electrical resistance which is a measure for the applied stress. These sensors are frequently found in aircraft to measure the strains (as a measure for the stresses) in the structure, e.g. wing spars, (pressure) bulkheads or frames, as part of structural health monitoring (e.g. to compare to the design spectrum of the OEM).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In theory the Z-offset with a strain gauge is non existent if you use such a sensor for &lt;a href=&quot;/a/18452/&quot;&gt;ABL&lt;/a&gt; except that you may need to corect for possible flexing of the bed or the hot end assembly and a paper offset (default distance to allow better flow and adhesion).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, the system referenced in the question is an &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.creality.com/products/creality-ender-3-v3-se&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Ender 3 V3 SE&lt;/a&gt; with an ABL system and a strain gauge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Relax, Let Auto Leveling Do It&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Leveling is the basis of print quality.&#xA;Ender-3 V3 SE features a CR Touch sensor for auto leveling&#xA;and a strain sensor for auto Z offset.&#xA;No need to turn screws or pull a paper.&#xA;Just lie back and enjoy the print success.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This implies that the strain gauge is not used to determine the &lt;a href=&quot;/a/15488/&quot;&gt;level of the bed&lt;/a&gt;, instead the surface  of the build plate is scanned/mapped by the CR Touch (BLTouch clone) sensor. In order to map this scanned surface to the correct height, a test point with the nozzle hitting the buildplate (and as such causing the strain gauge to measure that the nozzle touches the surface) is used to set the Z-offset based on this measurement. Without such a strain gauge, the printer user needs to do that manually; this is the process where you set the offset using the &lt;a href=&quot;https://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M851.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;code&gt;M851&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/a&gt; G-code command. Instead of the user lowering the nozzle until a piece of paper can be dragged with a little resistance to determine the &amp;quot;true zero position&amp;quot; of the Z-axis, the triggering of the strain gauge and the automatic handling by the Creality software will do that for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To explain the automatic calculation of the Z-offset in this printer is that the Creality Ender 3 V3 SE first calibrates the Z-offset with the help of a pressure of strain-gauge sensor mounted under the front left corner of the print bed, there is a strain-gauge sensor which can detects deformation on the structure that is mounted on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IqQso.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IqQso.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Knowing the exact position of the nozzle and the position (height) of the trigger point of the leveling sensor, the Z-offset can be calculated and set. That height is then put into the &lt;code&gt;M851&lt;/code&gt; G-code command to set the Z-offset. This is exactly how you would do this manually other than you usually use a sheet of paper or a feeler gauge between the nozzle and the bed. The automatic calculation will surely make a correction for that (e.g. there could be play in the nozzle assembly).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2023-12-01T13:32:27.487" LastActivityDate="2023-12-01T13:32:27.487" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21711" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-11-30T23:03:30.120" Score="0" ViewCount="99" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can't figure out why, but at the end of every print, my Creality CR-10 Smart Pro will move the print head left until it hits the limit switch and move the bed back until it hits its limit switch. I have no idea why.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have looked at the G-code of several prints and I don't see any command telling the printer to do this. I have also tried different slicers and the same thing happens. I have tried adding &lt;code&gt;M18&lt;/code&gt; to disable the steppers at the end of the G-code hoping it wouldn't do this if the steppers were off, but no luck. I can only assume that this behavior is built into the printer for some odd reason.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can anyone else with a Creality CR-10 Smart Pro confirm that their printer also does this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40680" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2023-12-01T12:35:26.947" LastActivityDate="2024-01-31T14:52:22.217" Title="Printer always homes X &amp; Y at end of print" Tags="|creality-cr-10|homing|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21712" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21715" CreationDate="2023-12-01T03:34:02.990" Score="1" ViewCount="284" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking for an SLA resin that's electrically conductive. But, there don't seem to be any DIY or cheap formulations for electrically conductive resin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it were easy to do, we'd all be making circuits with electrically conductive resin. So I think that level of conductivity is probably not going to be available for a while. And I guess beyond the scope of this question. Likewise, a resin that was conductive enough for electroplating is also beyond the scope of this question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A guy on YouTube mixed 5% graphite with resin and got 1.4 MΩ on his multimeter when the electrodes were placed about 2 cm apart. This is useful for electrostatic discharge but not much else. I'd like something more conductive than that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would like something similar to ProtoPasta conductive PLA, which has about 400-2000 Ω of resistance when you measure it 2 cm apart on a multimeter. It's not that good, but it's enough for a touch screen or button, for example. Someone on Reddit mentioned that people had formulated this before, but I can't find any evidence of that. At least, not with SLA resin - just that FDM stuff.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I even tried my hand at this a few months ago. I mixed some kind of generic resin with chopped carbon fibers, but it was kind of weird. The chopped fibers stuck out the edges of the final print, and were never really spread around that well. It was conductive but highly &lt;strong&gt;ansiotropic&lt;/strong&gt;. It also looked horrible. The fibers clumped together in the uncured (and cured) resin, and it was not possible to keep them well-dispersed in the mixture throughout the print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone have a good 1) cheap supplier or 2) cheap &amp;amp; simple DIY formulation for creating this kind of resin?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10369" LastEditorUserId="10369" LastEditDate="2023-12-01T13:27:16.997" LastActivityDate="2023-12-02T02:24:11.953" Title="Are there any electrically-conductive SLA resins?" Tags="|resin|sla|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21713" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-12-01T05:47:14.780" Score="2" ViewCount="81" Body="&lt;p&gt;I read some pages about 3D filament burn test.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a white filament and made the burn test and not only it caught fire immediately and crackled (noise), but also I burned just 1 cm of it and it speckled black spots on the entire surface and furniture in my kitchen, just by burning a centimeter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've no idea of what type of filament this is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's white, not very elastic, it doesn't get too mechanically damaged when I fold it. On the other hand, it is a little translucent (just a little) but becomes opaque with the slightest fold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1UvdE.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1UvdE.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the picture, the dark parts are in reality white opaque parts, the the back light show then dark. The clear parts are part and slightly transparents.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I bend this filament, it doesn't look anything like PLA or ABS, it's much more flexible and remembers the folds better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/muNeL.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/muNeL.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This filament is not soluble at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What kind of filament could this be?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40681" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2023-12-01T07:24:37.167" LastActivityDate="2023-12-02T14:18:54.470" Title="Can you identify filament type by filament burn test (and additional observations)?" Tags="|filament|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21714" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21742" CreationDate="2023-12-01T10:34:34.347" Score="2" ViewCount="188" Body="&lt;p&gt;In addition to the question &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/21708/how-can-a-force-sensor-automatically-determine-the-z-offset&quot;&gt;How can a force sensor automatically determine the Z-offset?&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any well-documented 'auto z-offset' (DIY) upgrade available for 3D printers? I'm particularly interested in using a strain gauge and upgrading the Creality Ender 3 V2. But examples for adding this capability, using other methods or to other printers are also welcome because I can modify it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36802" LastActivityDate="2023-12-04T11:30:14.213" Title="Is there any well-documented 'auto z-offset' (DIY) upgrade available for 3D printers?" Tags="|diy-3d-printer|automation|z-offset|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21715" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21712" CreationDate="2023-12-01T10:52:55.063" Score="1" Body="&lt;h2&gt;There are.&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will find them under the name &amp;quot;conductive UV resins and additives&amp;quot; and you can mix and match resins and additives to get desired properties. Of course the better conductivity, the worse printability most of the time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.3dresyns.com/pages/conductive-3dresyns-for-electronics&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;first manufacturer&lt;/a&gt; I was able to find (emphasis mine):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Our innovative Conductive 3Dresyns have been designed to have excellent dispersibility and stability, without agglomeration issues, of pre and/ or post added metallic, inorganic and organic conductive and semiconductive materials for ultra fast additive &lt;strong&gt;manufacturing of high-performance electronic devices such as OLEDs, OPVs, OTFTs, PCBs, etc&lt;/strong&gt; 3D printed at micron resolution (&amp;lt;20-30 microns) with SLA, DLP, LCD and Inkjet 3D printing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do not endorse this manufacturer or their products. I'm only using them as a proof of existence of the materials in question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20803" LastActivityDate="2023-12-01T10:52:55.063" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21716" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21713" CreationDate="2023-12-01T12:43:52.427" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's impossible to judge based on the photos alone; the properties you describe and the photos, to me, look similar to the polyhydroxyalkanoates (PHA) I've recently been testing. But my reference is only PLA and DHA, and it's a relatively new type of filament so, that is unlikely. Knowing when and where you got it, is perhaps relevant for context. Perhaps adding information about the smell when extruded, or colors of smoke or flame when burned, the observed melting point could help narrow it down too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Generally for plastic identification. &lt;a href=&quot;https://community.preciousplastic.com/academy/plastic/basics&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Preciousplastic.com Academy&lt;/a&gt; has good and free content about distinguishing different types of plastic such as in &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fsqLJNyrVss&amp;amp;t=281s&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this YouTube video&lt;/a&gt; but I've never seen such floating tests for buoyancy be performed for filament specifically. &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/biW2YN7bRW0?si=N1BnBFlTl7FpkCdN&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;The Brothers Make YouTube channel&lt;/a&gt; also has good content about plastic identification.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want a total overkill solution to test this tiny piece of plastic you could perhaps consider something like &lt;a href=&quot;https://matoha.com/plastics-identification&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;PlasTell by Matoha.com&lt;/a&gt;, which I believe used spectroscopy, as shown below. However, I have not seen this being applied on 3D printer filaments (PLA, PETG, ABS, TPU, PHA) as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/R9gDZ.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/R9gDZ.png&quot; alt=&quot;plastic identification using spectroscopy&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Source: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.oceaninsight.com/blog/spectroscopy-for-plastics-recycling/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Oceaninsight.com&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36802" LastEditorUserId="36802" LastEditDate="2023-12-01T17:45:45.057" LastActivityDate="2023-12-01T17:45:45.057" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21717" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-12-01T15:14:35.783" Score="1" ViewCount="41" Body="&lt;p&gt;I finally managed to get my Raspberry Pi 4b and make it work with a touchscreen. Previously I was using &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/q/20278/20803&quot;&gt;Pi 400&lt;/a&gt; but I want to move to the touchscreen setup.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a distro of Octoprint for Raspberry that is not headless, and instead uses the screen? I'm OK with a fullscreen browser with &lt;a href=&quot;https://localhost.local&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://localhost.local&lt;/a&gt; open on it, I don't fancy trying to add everything from scratch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ocmu9.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ocmu9.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Photo of Raspberry Pi 4b with a screen&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20803" LastActivityDate="2023-12-01T18:06:56.933" Title="Is there a distribution of OctoPrint for Raspberry Pi 4b that's not headless?" Tags="|octoprint|raspberry-pi|octopi|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21719" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21717" CreationDate="2023-12-01T18:06:56.933" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I assume you're using &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/guysoft/OctoPi&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;OctoPi&lt;/a&gt;. There is no such version that I'm aware of. However, you could relatively quickly run a &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/OctoPrint/octoprint-docker&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;OctoPrint container&lt;/a&gt; using &lt;a href=&quot;https://docs.docker.com/engine/install/raspberry-pi-os/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Docker&lt;/a&gt; on the Raspberry Pi or install it on the without a Docker container on the Pi, for example, using &lt;a href=&quot;https://raspberrytips.com/install-debian-on-raspberry-pi/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Debian OS&lt;/a&gt; or maybe even on Raspbian.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This way, you have an OS with GUI and can open the browser and access the local OctoPrint GUI in the local browser. I don't know if this will cause much overhead in terms of performance, which could affect your prints if it's lagging too much. It probably will need active cooling or at least a heatsink.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Nice display. I agree that it would be nice to see an OctoPi version with a local GUI, preferably optimized for a small (touch) screen; perhaps you can request that feature on GitHub and refer to this question.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36802" LastActivityDate="2023-12-01T18:06:56.933" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21720" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-12-01T20:29:12.197" Score="1" ViewCount="110" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have forgotten my OctoPi SSH password. Now I want to install X server and browser for touch UI. How can I recover that password without deleting it all to the ground and reinstalling it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20803" LastActivityDate="2023-12-02T11:43:08.103" Title="How to recover forgotten SSH password in OctoPi?" Tags="|octopi|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21721" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21720" CreationDate="2023-12-01T20:29:12.197" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://community.octoprint.org/u/foosel&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;foosel&lt;/a&gt;, Project Leader of OctoPrint, helpfully provided a &lt;a href=&quot;https://community.octoprint.org/t/forgotten-username-and-password-to-ssh-into-pi/8839/7&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;solution just for us&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Turn off the Raspberry Pi and then:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Take the SD card out, put it in a card reader. Create a file octopi-password.txt on it, containing a new password as it's only line. Unmount, boot, login with the new password.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can do it in Windows, because you need to put it on the Boot partition, the only one that mounts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20803" LastEditorUserId="36802" LastEditDate="2023-12-02T11:43:08.103" LastActivityDate="2023-12-02T11:43:08.103" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21722" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21712" CreationDate="2023-12-02T02:24:11.953" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could just use conductive paint, it's under $20 usually for the basics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bareconductive is the only one I've used, worked well enough for my simple project. Other products might be better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31811" LastActivityDate="2023-12-02T02:24:11.953" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21724" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-12-02T11:07:46.907" Score="2" ViewCount="173" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm experimenting with a new type of filament, 100 % polyhydroxyalkanoates (&lt;strong&gt;PHA&lt;/strong&gt;). However, per the manufacturer's instructions I'm using a &lt;strong&gt;PLA&lt;/strong&gt; profile in Cura and with the only change being a 200 °C nozzle on a cold, &lt;strong&gt;unheated carborundum glass bed&lt;/strong&gt; using a well-calibrated Creality Ender 3 V2. Fan speed at 100 % from the first layer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The whole setup works flawlessly with PLA at 210 °C with a heated bed at 35 °C. My PLA prints are generally hard to remove, even after cooling down the bed, sticking too well, despite not using glue sticks or adhesives. So, I assume that adhesion cannot be the issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For PHA, the first layers look excellent, but after some time, the result is extreme warping as shown below:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ltYSr.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;sideview of extreme PHA warping with unheated bed&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ltYSr.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;sideview of extreme PHA warping with unheated bed&quot; title=&quot;sideview of extreme PHA warping with unheated bed&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How is it possible for a print to warp on an unheated bed in a room with a stable room temperature of 19 °C and humidity of 45 %?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MFx3B.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;top view of PH print on unfinished print on unheated bed&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MFx3B.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;top view of PH print on unfinished print on unheated bed&quot; title=&quot;top view of PH print on unfinished print on unheated bed&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The model used (although print canceled) was &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4670018&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Filament Swatch&lt;/a&gt; from Thingiverse.com.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Example of the same model, printed on the same machine, with the same settings but &lt;strong&gt;using recycled PLA and a heated bed&lt;/strong&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6aQNq.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;successful PLA print&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6aQNq.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;successful PLA print&quot; title=&quot;successful PLA print&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36802" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2023-12-11T04:48:36.673" LastActivityDate="2023-12-15T04:42:00.800" Title="How is it possible for (PHA) prints to warp on an unheated bed?" Tags="|pla|filament|warping|pha|cold-bed|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21725" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20748" CreationDate="2023-12-02T13:25:36.923" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;None of the above examples work, because the settings parser is more complex than that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So you can achieve preheated temperatures by adding the following modification to the &lt;code&gt;fdmprinter.def.json&lt;/code&gt; file:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;&amp;quot;material_bed_temperature_pre&amp;quot;:&#xA;    {&#xA;        &amp;quot;label&amp;quot;: &amp;quot;Build Plate Preheat Temperature&amp;quot;,&#xA;        &amp;quot;description&amp;quot;: &amp;quot;The temperature used for preheating the heated build plate.&amp;quot;,&#xA;        &amp;quot;unit&amp;quot;: &amp;quot;°C&amp;quot;,&#xA;        &amp;quot;type&amp;quot;: &amp;quot;float&amp;quot;,&#xA;        &amp;quot;resolve&amp;quot;: &amp;quot;material_bed_temperature_pre&amp;quot;,&#xA;        &amp;quot;default_value&amp;quot;: &amp;quot;material_bed_temperature_layer_0 - 8&amp;quot;,&#xA;        &amp;quot;value&amp;quot;: &amp;quot;material_bed_temperature_layer_0 - 8&amp;quot;,&#xA;        &amp;quot;minimum_value&amp;quot;: &amp;quot;0&amp;quot;,&#xA;        &amp;quot;minimum_value_warning&amp;quot;: &amp;quot;max(build_volume_temperature, max(extruderValues('material_bed_temperature')))&amp;quot;,&#xA;        &amp;quot;maximum_value_warning&amp;quot;: &amp;quot;130&amp;quot;,&#xA;        &amp;quot;maximum_value&amp;quot;: &amp;quot;200&amp;quot;,&#xA;        &amp;quot;enabled&amp;quot;: &amp;quot;false&amp;quot;,&#xA;        &amp;quot;settable_per_mesh&amp;quot;: false,&#xA;        &amp;quot;settable_per_extruder&amp;quot;: false,&#xA;        &amp;quot;settable_per_meshgroup&amp;quot;: false&#xA;    },&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A probable reason why the previous suggestions fail is that the code completion will see the inclusion as some sort of conflict/default as it is not listed in the settings (&amp;quot;enabled = false&amp;quot;). When there is conflict, it attempts to resolve it based on the &amp;quot;resolve&amp;quot; field, equating to the layer_0 setting in an incorrect example.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the value can be something else than what is listed in the &amp;quot;value&amp;quot; category depending on circumstances.&#xA;With this addition, the value has no other choice than to compute the preheated temperature based on layer_0 temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For nozzle temperatures, I use fixed value which does not yet cause oozing of most materials during the small mismatch of sync period.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The setting in the G-code generator is as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;M190 S{material_bed_temperature_pre} ;Initial bed temperature, wait&#xA;M140 S{material_bed_temperature} ; start heating the bed&#xA;M104 S180 ;Hotend initial target, no wait&#xA;G28 ;Home&#xA;G1 Z15.0 F1200 ;Move the platform down 15mm&#xA;M104 S{material_print_temperature} ;Hotend actual target, no wait&#xA;M190 S{material_bed_temperature} ;Target bed temperature, wait&#xA;M109 S{material_print_temperature} T0 ; wait for hotend&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So first we wait for the bed to reach preheat temperatures, which takes some time.&#xA;Then, the bed temperature is set to target and the nozzle is to preheat levels, but in the background.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;During this, we moved to the home position.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, in sequence ultimate target for the nozzle is no wait, and then we stay until the bed temperature is final. To make sure the nozzle is at the final temperature (if it was not reached during bed heat up), we wait for it until it goes to actual printing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40691" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2023-12-02T15:03:57.443" LastActivityDate="2023-12-02T15:03:57.443" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21726" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22951" CreationDate="2023-12-02T13:56:38.753" Score="1" ViewCount="125" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have two Creality Ender 3 V2 printers with a version 4.2.2 board. One printer has the official CRTouch, and one is nearly original without a probe. I found a similar product, a DIY project called &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2890290&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;BFPTouch&lt;/a&gt;, and I have almost all the parts needed to make it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vV3lo.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vV3lo.png&quot; alt=&quot;BFPTouch&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Model and photo source: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2890290/files&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Thingiverse.com&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I use the Marlin-based &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/mriscoc/Ender3V2S1/releases&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;mriscoc firmware&lt;/a&gt; on both printers. Version &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/mriscoc/Ender3V2S1/releases/download/20231202/Ender3V2-422-MM-MPC-20231202.bin&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Ender3V2-422-MM-MPC-20231202.bin&lt;/a&gt;, and on my printer with the CRTouch, I use the &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/mriscoc/Ender3V2S1/releases/download/20231202/Ender3V2-422-BLTUBL-MPC-20231202.bin&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Ender3V2-422-BLTUBL-MPC-20231202.bin&lt;/a&gt; version.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is the BFPTouch interchangeable with the CRTouch, like the BLTouch and CRTouch are? Is the wiring to the board the same, and would it suffice to use the &lt;code&gt;BLTUBL&lt;/code&gt; firmware version of mriscoc that I've mentioned without further altering Marlin?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36802" LastEditorUserId="36802" LastEditDate="2024-01-15T08:49:25.287" LastActivityDate="2024-01-15T09:59:29.717" Title="Is the BFPTouch interchangable with the BLTouch for mriscoc firmware without custom changes to Marlin?" Tags="|creality-ender-3|marlin|bltouch|mriscoc|crtouch|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21727" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21713" CreationDate="2023-12-02T14:02:58.967" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;10 years ago, we bought a spool of White HIPS, and one of White Rubber, and one of Wood and one of Nylon. I never used them ! Funny...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Surely I burned the HIPS one (I don't think it's a rubber one).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now we know that burning 1 cm of HIPS can stain several square meters with small greasy black spots. In the air nothing is visible but after just 1 cm, it's a misery to clean...&#xA;So do not do the burn test with HIPS !&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40681" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2023-12-02T14:18:54.470" LastActivityDate="2023-12-02T14:18:54.470" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21728" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21662" CreationDate="2023-12-02T14:48:58.833" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, as of December 2023, Z-axis Input Shaping is not possible in Marlin firmware. Marlin only supports Input Shaping on the X and Y axes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/issues/26474&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;feature request on GitHub&lt;/a&gt; to implement Z-axis Input Shaping on Marlin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36802" LastActivityDate="2023-12-02T14:48:58.833" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21729" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21731" CreationDate="2023-12-02T18:50:09.257" Score="0" ViewCount="875" Body="&lt;p&gt;I thought I had two identical Ender 3 V2 printers, the main board in both is v4.2.2 but it turns out they came with a different LCD screen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I flashed the firmware on both printers to &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/mriscoc/Ender3V2S1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;mriscoc firmware&lt;/a&gt; and tried to also flash both LCD screens.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;DWIN&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The printer with the DWIN screen worked fine, everything went smooth and instead of the original blue, flat GUI, I now look at a colorful GUI something like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PBG07.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PBG07.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;mriscoc firmware GUI&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;DACAI&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other printer that I identified as a DACAI LCD as per &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/mriscoc/Ender3V2S1/wiki/How-to-update-the-display&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;mriscoc instructions documented&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BV6Fm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BV6Fm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;DACAI LCD photo&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I then flashed the firmware and the &lt;code&gt;private&lt;/code&gt; folder separately, as shown below, in the end you can see it fails to load. Not shown on the video but if I rotate the knob, the buttons appear on top of the load screen:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Nt8h2.gif&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Nt8h2.gif&quot; alt=&quot;failed DACAI LCD firmware upgrade&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After rebooting I see this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aZC2C.gif&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aZC2C.gif&quot; alt=&quot;failed DACAI LCD firmware upgrade&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am able to view a test thumbnail on screen, as provided in the documentation and shown below:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HSbH4.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HSbH4.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;thumbnail preview on Ender 3 V2&#xA;using mriscoc firmware&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I expect the same colors and icons as on my DWIN screen, did I miss something?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I made sure the right cluster size was used when formatting, I tried three different SD cards and two different SD card readers, as well as unmounting from PC before removing it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How to successfully flash a DACAI LCD screen of an Ender 3 V2 to achieve the same as on the DWIN LCD?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36802" LastEditorUserId="36802" LastEditDate="2023-12-02T23:24:47.327" LastActivityDate="2023-12-02T23:24:47.327" Title="How to successfully flash a DACAI LCD screen of a Creality Ender 3 V2?" Tags="|creality-ender-3|firmware|lcd-screen|mriscoc|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21730" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16595" CreationDate="2023-12-02T20:01:09.040" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I also swapped my Ender 5 plus hotend with the all metal swiss one and I am having the same issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I increased my wall overlap in increments of .04 until I got to .20.  I increased my print temp from 210 to 220, and I increased my wall flow rate by 30 %.  I believe my walls are sticking on a bit better now but not quite as well as they should.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user40695" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2023-12-02T23:01:17.237" LastActivityDate="2023-12-02T23:01:17.237" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21731" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21729" CreationDate="2023-12-02T22:45:09.593" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The process as shown in the question was all performed correctly and successfully however, simply the wrong icon set was used. The documentation isn't very clear and I should have personally documented this better when I did it months ago.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;For flashing the LCD screen, the SD card will be placed in the SD card slot on the back of the LCD screen, not the printer slot.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is what fixed it:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Clone the &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/mriscoc/Ender3V2S1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;mriscoc Git repository&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/mriscoc/Ender3V2S1/archive/refs/heads/Ender3V2S1-Released.zip&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;download latest the zip&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Open the folder &lt;code&gt;display assets&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Open the folder &lt;code&gt;Giadej compilation&lt;/code&gt; for the icons I intended to use and utilize the color LCD instead&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Depending on the screen type, follow the instructions &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/mriscoc/Ender3V2S1/wiki/How-to-update-the-display&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;as documented here&lt;/a&gt;:&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;For DWIN LCD copy only the folder &lt;code&gt;DWIN_SET&lt;/code&gt; to the root of the SD&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;For DACAI LCD copy only the folder &lt;code&gt;private&lt;/code&gt; to the root of the SD&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, it's required to have micro SD card of 8GB or smaller formatted explicitly as MBR, FAT32, and &lt;strong&gt;with a 4 KB sector size&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the DACAI screen specifically, I also flashed another DACAI screen firmware, also available in mrisoc Git repo: &lt;a href=&quot;https://raw.githubusercontent.com/mriscoc/Ender3V2S1/Ender3V2S1-Released/display%20assets/dacai_update.zip&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;dacai_update.zip&lt;/a&gt;. Place the &lt;code&gt;firmware.zlib&lt;/code&gt; file in the root of the SD card and flash.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Repower the printer after flashing both firmware and private folder. To test if the firmware and screen work correctly you can place &lt;a href=&quot;https://raw.githubusercontent.com/mriscoc/Ender3V2S1/Ender3V2S1-Released/slicer%20scripts/cura/SimpleCuraTest.gcode&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this test gcode&lt;/a&gt; on &lt;em&gt;the printer SD card&lt;/em&gt; to check if the thumbnail preview on the printer LCD is shown.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Result shown below:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/a5Hkk.gif&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/a5Hkk.gif&quot; alt=&quot;mriscoc firmware with Giadej theme on LCD screen&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36802" LastEditorUserId="36802" LastEditDate="2023-12-02T22:58:57.500" LastActivityDate="2023-12-02T22:58:57.500" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21732" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-12-03T11:39:03.463" Score="3" ViewCount="97" Body="&lt;p&gt;My silicone sleeve dislodged from the heater block. Surprisingly, Prusa firmware correctly detected crash, pushed it out of the way and resumed print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can just print without it, but I would prefer to have it on as it speeds up heating noticeably. What can I use to secure it in place?  I don't want to risk failed prints in the future, so unless I know it's not coming off, I'm not putting it back on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jNmM4.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jNmM4.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;photooftheissue&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20803" LastActivityDate="2023-12-06T19:36:34.107" Title="How to secure silicone sleeve to my heater block?" Tags="|hotend|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21733" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19569" CreationDate="2023-12-03T12:52:47.317" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As mentioned in the comments by Mick. The full datasheet can be found on &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.promoco-motors.com/products/StepperMotors/42BYGH%20Series.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;promoco-motors.com&lt;/a&gt;. Below is a table with electrical specifications from the mentioned datasheet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xMtQR.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xMtQR.png&quot; alt=&quot;electrical specifications of 42BYGH stepper motor&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36802" LastActivityDate="2023-12-03T12:52:47.317" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21735" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-12-03T14:57:17.473" Score="3" ViewCount="144" Body="&lt;p&gt;I designed a basic structure with FreeCAD. For the base, I started with a 40x40 mm square:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vdza8.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Screenshot of FreeCAD showing a 40x40 mm square&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vdza8.png&quot; alt=&quot;Screenshot of FreeCAD showing a 40x40 mm square&quot; title=&quot;Screenshot of FreeCAD showing a 40x40 mm square&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And I extruded it with 6.5 mm:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ei3kD.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Screenshot of FreeCAD's Pad parameters dialog box with a 'Length' of 6.5 mm&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ei3kD.png&quot; alt=&quot;Screenshot of FreeCAD's Pad parameters dialog box with a 'Length' of 6.5 mm&quot; title=&quot;Screenshot of FreeCAD's Pad parameters dialog box with a 'Length' of 6.5 mm&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then, I added a circle sketch with a radius of 19 mm:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OPyTo.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Screenshot of a FreeCAD sketch showing a circle with a radius of 19 mm&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OPyTo.png&quot; alt=&quot;Screenshot of a FreeCAD sketch showing a circle with a radius of 19 mm&quot; title=&quot;Screenshot of a FreeCAD sketch showing a circle with a radius of 19 mm&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And applied 5.5 mm pocket:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AIdPJ.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Screenshot of FreeCAD's Pocket parameters dialog box with a 'Length' of 5.5 mm&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AIdPJ.png&quot; alt=&quot;Screenshot of FreeCAD's Pocket parameters dialog box with a 'Length' of 5.5 mm&quot; title=&quot;Screenshot of FreeCAD's Pocket parameters dialog box with a 'Length' of 5.5 mm&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The end result looks good:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PDbka.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Screenshot of a square base with a circular recess 3D model in FreeCAD&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PDbka.png&quot; alt=&quot;Screenshot of a square base with a circular recess 3D model in FreeCAD&quot; title=&quot;Screenshot of a square base with a circular recess 3D model in FreeCAD&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, &lt;strong&gt;any&lt;/strong&gt; slicer I know will produce a strange shape around the middle of the sides both inside and outside:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uKOTP.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Screenshot of a sliced model with unknown artifacts at the tangent edges of the circle and square sides&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uKOTP.png&quot; alt=&quot;Screenshot of a sliced model with unknown artifacts at the tangent edges of the circle and square sides&quot; title=&quot;Screenshot of a sliced model with unknown artifacts at the tangent edges of the circle and square sides&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a 1 mm thickness there, so I don't understand why are those shapes presented.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm looking for:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The reason for those failed shapes&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The  solution to eliminate them (preferably without resizing either the square or the circle)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have provided the &lt;a href=&quot;https://filetransfer.io/data-package/ohThffuy&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;STL file&lt;/a&gt; for analysis.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="39367" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2024-02-22T16:57:15.880" LastActivityDate="2024-02-22T16:57:15.880" Title="Does FreeCAD produce a wrong stl for slicer software?" Tags="|slicing|freecad|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21736" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-12-03T16:46:14.790" Score="0" ViewCount="98" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an Ender 3 V2 Printer and I can print in PLA with good quality and no issues. I am using a 0.8 mm Nozzle and my model prints fine in PLA.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have now tried to use Pinuotu 1.75 mm PETG transparent red filament with recommended nozzle temperature &amp;quot;210-240 °C&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am getting blobs on the first layer only when doing the inner section but not on the walls or brim.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first issue which I'm assuming is related is the nozzle seems to leak filament after I pause the print so assuming this is a retraction issue?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have tried printing at 210, 215 and 220 °C with a bed temperature of 60 °C. I have no bed adhesion issues and have tried adjusting my material type, retraction settings, cooling (0, 20 and 100 %) and print speed (40, 45 and 65 mm/s) all which don't seem to help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am using Cura as a slicer. I think this may be a retraction issue? I have lost count of how long I have spent trying to print with this material. The only modification to the printer is a direct drive extruder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Image on bed is here:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nnoPP.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nnoPP.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Image on bed&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Nozzle after printing here:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2fA10.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2fA10.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Nozzle after printing&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Offbed result here:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aobWa.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aobWa.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Offbed result&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40708" LastEditorUserId="20803" LastEditDate="2023-12-03T20:42:36.677" LastActivityDate="2023-12-03T20:42:36.677" Title="Nozzle leaking PETG and blobs on first layer" Tags="|creality-ender-3|troubleshooting|petg|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21737" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22927" CreationDate="2023-12-03T16:50:46.180" Score="1" ViewCount="1225" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm building this simple DIY filament runout sensor for Ender 3 V2 based on this &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3184729&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;model from Thingiverse.com&lt;/a&gt;. I am not sure about the wiring, it seems trivial, I probably need to use 'normally closed' (NC). Below is the result so far.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7SDdn.gif&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7SDdn.gif&quot; alt=&quot;DIY runout sensor without wires&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/k8I3Z.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/k8I3Z.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;DIY runout sensor with wires&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found this schematic from &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=neS7lB7fCww&amp;amp;t=1128s&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;a YouTube video&lt;/a&gt; which uses a different sensor:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kj8mO.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kj8mO.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;schematic&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Based on the switch I used and the schematics shown, I guess I need to connect only two wires as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Switch NC to board Red 5V (most left pin of the connector in the schematic image)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Switch C to board White Signal (most right pin of the connector in the schematic image)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;No connection to the second, black Grounding pin, as shown on the schematic image&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;No connection to the NO pin on the switch&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is that wiring correct?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lastly, I wonder how the connector is called that is used on the Creality v4.2.2 board, and if I need to use a transistor?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36802" LastEditorUserId="36802" LastEditDate="2024-01-04T14:36:36.527" LastActivityDate="2024-01-09T15:13:35.627" Title="How to wire a DIY filament runout sensor to a Creality v4.2.2 board?" Tags="|creality-ender-3|wiring|filament-sensor|sensors|runout-sensor|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21738" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21743" CreationDate="2023-12-03T17:21:58.550" Score="0" ViewCount="86" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there a method such as fetching data from to stepper motor drivers, that can &lt;strong&gt;automatically&lt;/strong&gt; detect or count stepper motor skips or stepper motor stalling?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Preferably for a Creality Ender 3 V2 board v4.2.2, but any related information is welcome. If something like this exists, how does it work and what are common use cases or implementation of it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason I am asking is because it is a performance indicator that could help to track or measure print consistency and quality.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36802" LastEditorUserId="36802" LastEditDate="2023-12-03T17:54:04.917" LastActivityDate="2023-12-06T12:49:00.723" Title="Can stepper motor skipping or stalling be detected automatically?" Tags="|stepper-driver|stepper|sensors|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21739" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21735" CreationDate="2023-12-03T19:33:08.103" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's not FreeCad, it is the shape you want to create. The wall has 1.0 mm thickness. I assume that you are using 0.4 mm nozzle. With default extrusion width of 0.45, you can get either 0.9 or 1.35 mm thickness, 0.9 obviously being closer to desired.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/myU4v.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/myU4v.png&quot; alt=&quot;1.0 mm wall width&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other issue is, there's no space for four perimeters. So, at the point where internal perimeters end, slicer need to move external perimeters closer together, to make them fuse properly. Thus, even at 0.5 mm extrusion width you will see this collapse. To prevent this effect, you need to either use smaller nozzle that would allow for internal and external perimeters to be continuous, or change your geometry to make it compatible with FDM process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that, if you want consistent prints, you shouldn't set extrusion width (or wall thickness, or however it's called in your slicer) to the value lower than the diameter of your nozzle. Even making it equal is risky. For this situation, I'd suggest 0.2 mm extrusion width on 0.15 or 0.18 nozzle. Or redesign.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AuepV.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AuepV.png&quot; alt=&quot;Wall collapse&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20803" LastEditorUserId="20803" LastEditDate="2023-12-04T06:23:02.007" LastActivityDate="2023-12-04T06:23:02.007" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21740" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-12-03T22:12:21.193" Score="2" ViewCount="153" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been banging my head against the desk for two days so it's time to ask for help. This is the second thing I've ever tried to design in Fusion 360, so very much a newbie.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to make some coasters for my dad for Christmas. What I've done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Created a sketch&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Created a square&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Added some fillets&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Extruded&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Right-clicked on the top surface and created a sketch&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Imported SVG of logo and positioned it&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Extruded the stuff on the logo that should be white by -0.4 mm into a new body&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Extruded the stuff on the logo that should be red by -0.4 mm into a new body&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is what it looks like in F360.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OkFPm.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OkFPm.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I now export to STL and open in OrcaSlicer. First problem I notice is that not all the bodies that were created are paintable. For example, I can pain &amp;quot;NEW YO&amp;quot; but the &amp;quot;R&amp;quot; and &amp;quot;K&amp;quot; just don't show up. Second problem is that this is what my first three layers look like (sliced at 0.20 mm). I'm assuming my error is on the F360 side but I just don't understand what it is. I've watched several videos on YT about doing this, but they usually are doing a single color and are either embossing or debossing it. I want it flat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gTSTh.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gTSTh.png&quot; alt=&quot;Layer 40&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jVxO4.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jVxO4.png&quot; alt=&quot;Layer 39&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yrcEX.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yrcEX.png&quot; alt=&quot;Layer 38&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After that it goes to infill and the rest looks fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="39946" LastEditorUserId="39946" LastEditDate="2023-12-04T18:37:32.567" LastActivityDate="2024-03-01T14:48:47.803" Title="How to add a multi-color flush logo to a flat surface?" Tags="|fusion360|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21741" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21396" CreationDate="2023-12-04T02:44:28.733" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you did not resolve this, you can try a couple of things:&#xA;You'd need OctoPrint and the &amp;quot;bedvisualizer&amp;quot; plugin installed.&#xA;I've had a similar problem with my Kobra standard and found out that it was totally off-level.&#xA;If the issues persist, please download/install both and send a screen capture of the bed level so we can go from there!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://community.octoprint.org/t/setting-up-octoprint-on-windows/383&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Setting up OctoPrint on Windows&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://plugins.octoprint.org/plugins/bedlevelvisualizer/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Bed Level Visualizer plugin&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40716" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2023-12-04T04:23:24.410" LastActivityDate="2023-12-04T04:23:24.410" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21742" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21714" CreationDate="2023-12-04T11:30:14.213" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's not a common thing because it's usually something you do once and then it works for years without need to touch it, and I don't know of generic &lt;em&gt;upgrades&lt;/em&gt; that provide &lt;em&gt;just&lt;/em&gt; that in conjunction with whichever probe you have.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bambu X-1 Carbon does it automatically with a piezzo sensor for a rough estimate and then using its lidar to analyze baby-stepped lines on the build plate to find the perfect Z height. This is not something to implement in any printer though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Prusa Mk4 approach is much more viable: it uses a load cell sensor in the extruder to find the moment the nozzle presses into the bed. I'm pretty sure this can be done with a strain gauge just as well, thing is they don't produce a neat binary on/off, just analog signal in form of varying resistance. You'd likely need a small microcontroller with an ADC input to read the gauge and convert that to binary On/Off on the Z axis input. And you'd still need to add (small, fixed) Z offset to get the height of the nozzle touching the bed as opposed to pressing into it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not aware of any ready-made solutions that do this, but it should be a project well within skill range of a hobbyist.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2206" LastActivityDate="2023-12-04T11:30:14.213" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21743" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21738" CreationDate="2023-12-04T17:27:56.050" Score="1" Body="&lt;h2&gt;You seem to be looking for closed-loop stepper motors.&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Detection of stalling and skipping on open-loop (aka regular) steppers is possible - that's how Prusa mk3s+ finds home position without endstops*. But it is not reliable and precise - that's why Prusa firmware tests every axis a couple of times.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If quality matters, and you want to reliably detect stalls and skips during print, closed-loop motors are what you need. Per &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.soyamotor.com/new_detail/nid/68655.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;one of the manufacturers description&lt;/a&gt;, they signal back to the controller what they are doing, so that controller can correct for skips and stalls:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the contrary, NEMA17 closed loop stepper motor feedback signal, according to the signal stepper motor driver to take the corresponding action measures or signal feedback to PLC, by PLC to determine the next step of the program.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Open-loop steppers are much cheaper, so most manufacturers just massively over-spec their open-loop steppers to make them force their way thorough any obstacles like blobs of plastic, and not need to care about feedback signal, and pay for it. As far as I know, closed-loop steppers are not used in hobby or even entry business machines, cost of motors and controllers being prohibitive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;* When the motor stalls, power draw changes. If your driver can monitor power draw, firmware can make educated guess about the stall.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20803" LastEditorUserId="20803" LastEditDate="2023-12-06T12:49:00.723" LastActivityDate="2023-12-06T12:49:00.723" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21747" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-12-04T22:42:20.950" Score="1" ViewCount="38" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is it possible to read the state of a specific printer part from Marlin-based firmware such as &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/mriscoc/Ender3V2S1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;mriscoc&lt;/a&gt;, such as:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the power (on or off) of a particular stepper motor;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the brightness percentage of the LCD screen;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;fan speed of individual fans (in RPM);&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;stepper motor voltage et cetera?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Preferably through the use of certain G-codes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36802" LastEditorUserId="36802" LastEditDate="2024-01-23T13:06:45.227" LastActivityDate="2024-01-23T13:06:45.227" Title="Is it possible to read the state of a specific printer part from the firmware, such as the power of a stepper motor, LCD brightness, or fan speed RPM?" Tags="|marlin|firmware|electronics|mriscoc|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21748" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21749" CreationDate="2023-12-04T22:50:22.197" Score="1" ViewCount="62" Body="&lt;p&gt;I see mixed terms such as 'rPLA, Recycled PLA, Recycled rPLA' used by different filament producers without a clear explanation or a standard definition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does it all mean Recycled PLA, or is rPLA a different material?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36802" LastActivityDate="2023-12-05T08:17:36.847" Title="Does rPLA stand for Recycled PLA, or is it a different type of material?" Tags="|pla|filament|recycling|terminology|rpla|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21749" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21748" CreationDate="2023-12-04T23:34:24.967" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;All brands and shops that I know of use rPLA name for recycled PLA. However, this is neither a chemical name abbreviation, like PLA, nor a naming standard that's enforced by any agency. Thus, every time you want to buy rPLA, you must check if it really means recycled PLA. Because it &lt;em&gt;can&lt;/em&gt; mean something else and manufacturer won't break any laws by doing it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hopefully the name will solidify soon, and anyone who sells anything but recycled PLA as rPLA will risk getting sued for false advertising. But we'll have to wait for that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Be aware that &amp;quot;up to 100% recycled material&amp;quot; means any non-zero number equal or lower than 100%. So 1% of recycled materials meets this declaration as well as 90%. Only when manufacturer gives straight number, or &amp;quot;at least&amp;quot; number, we can be sure that amount of recycled material is what we expect it to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20803" LastEditorUserId="20803" LastEditDate="2023-12-05T08:17:36.847" LastActivityDate="2023-12-05T08:17:36.847" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21750" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21732" CreationDate="2023-12-05T02:20:56.887" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since the Prusa MK3S+ does not come with a silicone sock then it is a third-party item. That said, some third-party manufacturers either don't have the actual specifications to make a proper silicone sock or they decided not to put a lot of effort into the design/creation of the sock. Therefore, the silicone sock is not a &amp;quot;perfect fit&amp;quot; on the Prusa MK3S+ and is/will be prone to falling off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As to how to keep it from falling off, therein lies the problem. Any adhesive that can withstand the high temperatures of the heat block will probably make the connection nearly permanent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It may just be a matter of trial and error to find a silicone sock that will fit snugly on the heat block.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23193" LastActivityDate="2023-12-05T02:20:56.887" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21751" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-12-05T03:23:42.020" Score="0" ViewCount="218" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an Ender 3 V2 which I use together with Creality slicer. I print in PLA at 200 °C. The print bed is set to 60 °C. The layer height I set to 0.2 mm. Print speed is set to 50 mm/s.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Printing on an Ender 3 V2, the bottom layers of the print I am attempting work fine, but as soon as the printer starts printing the infill it starts printing little balls of filament instead of the infill. Not sure what the issue is as this has never been an issue before, but this started happening after replacing my empty filament roll with a new one, the same PLA as before. Using the same print settings as I have for many successful previous prints.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I fix this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The image is the bottom of a print&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I printed a Benchy, but it looks pretty ugly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also noticed an erratic squeaking from the motor, not sure if that’s the cause or what I would do if it is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After cleaning the bed and getting a perfect bottom print, the infills still won’t come out right.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also tried doing some cold pulls to clean the nozzle and slow the print speed down to 30 mm/s but it still will not print infills well. Would love to hear some input.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After tightening the screw giving tension to the filament, the squeaking turned into thumping. I attached the youtube link where you can hear it in the first 15 seconds of the video on an extrusion.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://youtube.com/shorts/pIZ7TYW5NlU?feature=share&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://youtube.com/shorts/pIZ7TYW5NlU?feature=share&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/W0FHD.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Photo of the top of the extruder on an Ender 3v2&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/W0FHD.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Photo of the top of the extruder on an Ender 3v2&quot; title=&quot;Photo of the top of the extruder on an Ender 3v2&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xvfws.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Photo of the Z endstop on an Ender 3v2&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xvfws.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Photo of the Z endstop on an Ender 3v2&quot; title=&quot;Photo of the Z endstop on an Ender 3v2&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/n0xJ0.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Photo of a 3D model with the infill not being extruded properly&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/n0xJ0.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Photo of a 3D model with the infill not being extruded properly&quot; title=&quot;Photo of a 3D model with the infill not being extruded properly&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40727" LastEditorUserId="40727" LastEditDate="2023-12-08T20:37:04.990" LastActivityDate="2024-01-07T21:00:30.060" Title="Bottom layers print fine, then infill and wall layers instantly fail" Tags="|creality-ender-3|print-quality|creality-slicer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21752" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21779" CreationDate="2023-12-05T09:08:56.660" Score="0" ViewCount="46" Body="&lt;p&gt;In addition to the question &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/q/21748/36802&quot;&gt;Does rPLA stand for Recycled PLA, or is it a different type of material?&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does PLA lose mechanical properties when it is being recycled into rPLA? If so, &lt;strong&gt;how often&lt;/strong&gt; can it be recycled before being unusable for recycling? And how would filament manufacturers know or account for this? How would they know if I returned the new PLA or rPLA waste? What if, in theory, the same rPLA batch is sent back repeatedly for recycling?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36802" LastEditorUserId="36802" LastEditDate="2023-12-07T16:49:19.377" LastActivityDate="2023-12-08T17:14:53.247" Title="Does PLA lose mechanical properties when recycled, and if so, how often can it be recycled?" Tags="|pla|material|recycling|filament-production|rpla|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21753" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-12-05T12:42:27.390" Score="1" ViewCount="41" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm currently trying to print a really tall item that is somewhat width dependent (it's a dice tower, so I can't make it too small or thin or the dice won't travel through it properly) and it reaches the very top of the space designated for printing in Cura. By eye and looking at my printer (Wanhao Duplicator i3), I'm worried that the printhead won't be high up enough towards the end of the print to print the top of the tower, and don't really want to print something for 8 hours to find out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this not a problem as Cura accounts for it, or is it worth slicing up the model, printing it in two or three parts, and then gluing them back together? I plan to sand it and paint it afterwards anyway, so any seams wouldn't necessarily be too much of an issue, I would just worry about messing with the geometry enough to make the print fail.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I should note I have already downsized the tower by about 30% to fit it in to my available print space. :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="39490" LastActivityDate="2023-12-05T12:42:27.390" Title="Does Ultimaker Cura account for the printhead in the print space?" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21755" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21757" CreationDate="2023-12-05T23:30:33.407" Score="1" ViewCount="206" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found two great designs for a DIY sensor that achieve both &lt;strong&gt;filament runout&lt;/strong&gt; and &lt;strong&gt;filament jam&lt;/strong&gt; detection in one unit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A clever design that only uses one microswitch as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bZx6N.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Filament runout and jam sensor with one microswitch&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bZx6N.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Filament runout and jam sensor with one microswitch&quot; title=&quot;Filament runout and jam sensor with one microswitch&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Source: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5165299&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Thingiverse.com&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another design using two microswitches, as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Xy9iz.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Filament runout and jam sensor with two microswitches&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Xy9iz.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Filament runout and jam sensor with two microswitches&quot; title=&quot;Filament runout and jam sensor with two microswitches&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Source: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5158978&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Thingiverse.com&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am not sure about the reliability of either yet, and I initially liked the design with one more switch. Then I realized there was no way to distinguish what event occurred (runout &lt;strong&gt;or&lt;/strong&gt; jam), so I plan to make the second two microswitch versions instead. However, how would I wire this in a way so that my Ender 3 V2 running Marlin, specifically &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/mriscoc/Ender3V2S1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;mriscoc firmware&lt;/a&gt;, would be able to interpret both signals separately and interpret them as two distinguishable events so that the exact event is reported (runout or jam)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively, I could wire it to my Raspberry Pi, since I always print from OctoPrint only, and implement it there instead. However, I'd prefer to wire it to the printer board and have the firmware handle it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lastly, in comparison to these two specific designs, would an encoder wheel approach add benefits other than runout and jam detection?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Suggestions for better designs or approaches are also welcome.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36802" LastEditorUserId="36802" LastEditDate="2023-12-06T11:07:58.580" LastActivityDate="2023-12-06T11:07:58.580" Title="How to distinguish filament runout and filament jam using a microswitch-based filament sensor in Marlin?" Tags="|marlin|electronics|filament-jam|sensors|runout-sensor|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21756" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-12-06T00:06:37.400" Score="0" ViewCount="87" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am trying to understand the concept of the encoder wheel that is used as a filament sensor, as shown below. It can detect if filament is moving, making it suitable for &lt;strong&gt;filament runout&lt;/strong&gt; and &lt;strong&gt;filament jam&lt;/strong&gt; detection, although it wouldn't be able to distinguish the two events.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZVCbw.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;DIY Filament Sensor using Encoder Wheel&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZVCbw.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;DIY Filament Sensor using Encoder Wheel&quot; title=&quot;DIY Filament Sensor using Encoder Wheel&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Source: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4712966&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Thingiverse.com&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Filament runout detection&lt;/strong&gt; is easy to understand, there is no filament passing (anymore), so the wheel isn't moving when it should.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Filament jam detection&lt;/strong&gt;, the filament is not moving when it should, but how does the firmware know when it should expect the encoder wheel to move? Does it compare some last move time with an expected move time and some threshold time?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition to microswitch variants, such as shown in my question &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/q/21755/36802&quot;&gt;How to distinguish filament runout and filament jam using a microswitch-based filament sensor in Marlin?&lt;/a&gt;. I think an Encoder Wheel variant does add two more types of detection that a microswitch variant can't detect:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Filament break detection&lt;/strong&gt;: It is probably the only way to detect the rare case where the filament breaks (&lt;em&gt;after it passed the sensor&lt;/em&gt;), where one or two microswitches would both possibly not be triggered (as the filament is still present in the sensor), resulting in a false-negative where the printer keeps printing when it should stop.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Clogged nozzle detection&lt;/strong&gt;, a clogged nozzle would also be detected as the filament simply stops flowing.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I think both 'filament break' and 'glogged nozzle' detection would not be distinguishable from a 'Filament Jam' or 'Filament Runout' event for an encoder wheel sensor as in both cases, the filament simply stops running the wheel when it's expected to run.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally, under a &lt;a href=&quot;https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=v2mQ4X1J3cs&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;YouTube video&lt;/a&gt; about this particular sensor a user 'hd-be7di' commented:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This sensor could work better if it shared data with the extruder. It could act like an &amp;quot;&lt;strong&gt;error correction wheel&lt;/strong&gt;&amp;quot; by comparing the extruder's parameters to the sensor's to detect very tiny under-extrusions (and over-extrusions too!) instead of acting like a simple on-off switch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is my understanding correct, or are there other ways these encoder wheels can be used for 3D printers? How can printer firmware use encoder wheel data, and how does the firmware know when to expect a rotating wheel (with some delay or trigger threshold, I suppose) as well as ignoring retractions?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36802" LastEditorUserId="36802" LastEditDate="2024-03-03T10:19:51.693" LastActivityDate="2024-03-03T10:19:51.693" Title="How can printer firmware use encoder wheel data?" Tags="|diy-3d-printer|filament-jam|filament-sensor|sensors|runout-sensor|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21757" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21755" CreationDate="2023-12-06T08:11:18.890" Score="2" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Blue design&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The blue design can only detect a lack of filament. It is boolean: Filament or No Filament.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Pink design&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The pink design can have multiple states, combining two boolean values.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The right of the sensors is &amp;quot;Filament there&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The left is using a ramp. On pull along the ramp, the sensor is triggered once a certain amount of pull is overcome, either by pulling up, left or right. As a result of passing through the hole in the lever of known diameter. Any tangle or over thickness will act on the lever to the right and trigger the sensor, and so will strong yanking up or left, through those might self reset. As a result, this sensor will trigger a signal that could be called Tangle or No Tangle, or of course No Jam/Jam.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your interpretation that there is no way to distinguish the results depends on one thing: that you put the sensors through a single loop back, for the effect of an AND gate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;div class=&quot;s-table-container&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;table class=&quot;s-table&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;thead&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;th&gt;Filament&lt;/th&gt;&#xA;&lt;th&gt;Jam&lt;/th&gt;&#xA;&lt;th&gt;Output of the Series&lt;/th&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;/thead&gt;&#xA;&lt;tbody&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Filament in&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;No Jam&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Run&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Filament in&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Jam&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Stop&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;no Filament&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;No Jam&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Stop&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;no Filament&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Jam&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Stop&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tbody&gt;&#xA;&lt;/table&gt;&#xA;&lt;/div&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The design is set up such, that the filament sensor shows connectivity on being pressed, while the jam sensor is connected in reverse: triggering it opens the loop. While the designer wired the two in parallel, they could also be connected in series for the same effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To overcome this design deficiency of only sending a stop message, you need to route the signal to your control board and distinguish the two signals. However, for all but the error message, the practical effect should be the same: the machine shall stop if either of the Stop conditions is triggered.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have other sensory equipment on the printer, you might quickly run into problems in that the number of free pins is usually extremely limited, so you might not have enough pins to route the signals separately.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;is tangle trigger separate a good idea?&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, is the additional requirement of pins and wiring a &lt;strong&gt;good&lt;/strong&gt; idea when it comes to error handling? No.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In either detected case - no more filament or tangled filament - you need to stop printing and access the very same area to deal with the lack of feeding filament. Only in large operations, there is any reason to try and detect the two separately for logging purposes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastActivityDate="2023-12-06T08:11:18.890" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21758" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21732" CreationDate="2023-12-06T08:43:08.840" Score="4" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Mechanical&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/21750/8884&quot;&gt;agarza&lt;/a&gt; correctly noted, glue is a nogo for it will be permanent. But mechanical fixing is a way too. Don't forget the simple mechanical way to make sure the silicone sock won't get lost: a simple wire around it will keep it in place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If unbroken, the silicone will clamp that way itself, but if cut or broken, that clamping might not happen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Kapton Tape&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;High-temperature tape, usually from &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kapton&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Kapton&lt;/a&gt;, is often used to secure things to the heater block, and can be used to wrap around a broken or damaged silicone sock to keep it stable. It also can, on itself or with a high-temperature resistant insulator, be used to make a sock, because &lt;strong&gt;Polyimide is temperature resistant to up to 400 °C&lt;/strong&gt;. For a high-temperature printer, you even might want to replace your sock with several layers of polyimide tape, acting as a decent (but not perfect) insulator on its own.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At times, Kapton tape and fiberglass weave are used in very high-temperature applications to create isolation layers. Generally, in this form a woven fiberglass mat is preferable. However, wrapping the heater block can be... quite fiddly and looks not very pretty.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;don't ruin your sleeves!&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, OP also mentioned that they printed ASA at 250 °C. Silicones start to break down at 230 °C, so cooking the sock will harden it, then it will break and lost. That can not be prevented.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2023-12-06T15:18:09.997" LastActivityDate="2023-12-06T15:18:09.997" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21759" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22814" CreationDate="2023-12-06T09:01:12.307" Score="2" ViewCount="291" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been using Klipper and Cura for a while now (somewhat new to 3D printing), and I notice whenever I import a new G-code file to Klipper, none of the Slicer settings from Cura display in the G-code files in Klipper. However, when I imported a G-code file from my friend (the PETG one) I noticed it showed up right away:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mJ17D.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Screenshot of the File List from the web interface for klipper&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mJ17D.png&quot; alt=&quot;Screenshot of the File List from the web interface for klipper&quot; title=&quot;Screenshot of the File List from the web interface for klipper&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I looked at the difference in the G-code formats, and I noticed that the file sliced with Prusa had the settings in the bottom of the file in the below (truncated) format:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;;TYPE:Custom&#xA;; Filament-specific end gcode&#xA;; filament used [mm] = 5342.18&#xA;; filament used [cm3] = 12.85&#xA;; filament used [g] = 16.32&#xA;; filament cost = 0.45&#xA;; total filament used [g] = 16.32&#xA;; total filament cost = 0.45&#xA;; estimated printing time (normal mode) = 2h 49m 42s&#xA;; estimated printing time (silent mode) = 2h 50m 36s&#xA;; prusaslicer_config = begin&#xA;; avoid_crossing_perimeters = 0&#xA;; avoid_crossing_perimeters_max_detour = 0&#xA;; bed_custom_model =&#xA;; bed_custom_texture =&#xA;; bed_shape = 0x0,250x0,250x210,0x210&#xA;; bed_temperature = 90&#xA;; before_layer_gcode = ;BEFORE_LAYER_CHANGE\nG92 E0.0\n;[layer_z]\n\n&#xA;; between_objects_gcode =&#xA;; bottom_fill_pattern = monotonic&#xA;; bottom_solid_layers = 5&#xA;; bottom_solid_min_thickness = 0.5&#xA;; bridge_acceleration = 1000&#xA;; bridge_angle = 0&#xA;; bridge_fan_speed = 50&#xA;; bridge_flow_ratio = 1&#xA;; bridge_speed = 25&#xA;; cooling = 1&#xA;; cooling_tube_length = 5&#xA;; elefant_foot_compensation = 0.2&#xA;; external_perimeter_extrusion_width = 0.45&#xA;; external_perimeter_speed = 25&#xA;; external_perimeters_first = 0&#xA;; extra_loading_move = -2&#xA;; extra_perimeters = 0&#xA;; extrusion_multiplier = 1&#xA;; extrusion_width = 0.45&#xA;; fan_always_on = 1&#xA;; fan_below_layer_time = 20&#xA;; filament_colour = #FF8000&#xA;; filament_cooling_final_speed = 3.4&#xA;; filament_cooling_initial_speed = 2.2&#xA;; filament_cooling_moves = 4&#xA;; filament_cost = 27.82&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whereas the G-code generated by cura has them in the below format:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;;End of Gcode&#xA;;SETTING_3 {&amp;quot;global_quality&amp;quot;: &amp;quot;[general]\\nversion = 4\\nname = Filament_Sample-&#xA;;SETTING_3 PET-dev.1\\ndefinition = creality_ender3pro\\n\\n[metadata]\\ntype =&#xA;;SETTING_3 quality_changes\\nquality_type = standard\\nsetting_version = 22\\n\\&#xA;;SETTING_3 n[values]\\nadhesion_type = skirt\\nklipper_experimental_enable = Tru&#xA;;SETTING_3 e\\nklipper_ui_temp_support_enable = True\\nretraction_combing = nosk&#xA;;SETTING_3 in\\nsupport_enable = False\\nsupport_type = buildplate\\n\\n&amp;quot;, &amp;quot;extr&#xA;;SETTING_3 uder_quality&amp;quot;: [&amp;quot;[general]\\nversion = 4\\nname = Filament_Sample-PET&#xA;;SETTING_3 -dev.1\\ndefinition = creality_ender3pro\\n\\n[metadata]\\ntype = qua&#xA;;SETTING_3 lity_changes\\nquality_type = standard\\nintent_category = default\\n&#xA;;SETTING_3 position = 0\\nsetting_version = 22\\n\\n[values]\\nbrim_gap = 0.17\\&#xA;;SETTING_3 nbrim_line_count = 14\\ninfill_enable_travel_optimization = True\\nin&#xA;;SETTING_3 fill_sparse_density = 100\\ninset_direction = outside_in\\nironing_en&#xA;;SETTING_3 abled = True\\nironing_flow = 5.0\\nironing_inset = 0.2\\nironing_mon&#xA;;SETTING_3 otonic = True\\nironing_pattern = zigzag\\nmaterial_flow = 90.0\\nret&#xA;;SETTING_3 raction_amount = 3.0\\nretraction_hop = 1.0\\nretraction_hop_enabled&#xA;;SETTING_3 = True\\nretraction_hop_only_when_collides = True\\nroofing_layer_cou&#xA;;SETTING_3 nt = 1\\nroofing_line_width = 0.2\\nroofing_material_flow = 75.0\\nro&#xA;;SETTING_3 ofing_pattern = lines\\nskin_monotonic = True\\nskin_overlap = 4.0\\n&#xA;;SETTING_3 speed_print = 100.0\\nsupport_angle = 65.0\\nsupport_conical_enabled&#xA;;SETTING_3 = True\\nsupport_interface_density = 20\\nsupport_skip_some_zags = Tr&#xA;;SETTING_3 ue\\ntop_bottom_pattern_0 = lines\\ntop_layers = 1\\nwall_line_count&#xA;;SETTING_3 = 4\\nwall_overhang_angle = 55.0\\nwall_overhang_speed_factor = 80.0\&#xA;;SETTING_3 \n\\n&amp;quot;]}&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Prusa has them in a more sensible format, whereas Cura stores them in INI format, stored as strings in a JSON object, which is then stored as a G-code comment (which seems ridiculously overcomplicated)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I already have a bash/jq function I use to parse those comments from the Cura sliced G-code and display it to me, but I'm trying to find a way to have it done automatically while the G-code file is getting generated. I have looked at some plugins for Cura, but I didn't see one that applied to this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know I could possibly modify the &lt;code&gt;metadata.py&lt;/code&gt; (Moonraker) to have it parse for the Cura style G-code comments, or even write a Cura plugin, but it occurred to me that I can't be the first one to have this issue. And I didn't find anything for it upon Googling it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The question&lt;/strong&gt;: Does anyone have a simple workaround for this that doesn't require writing plugins or modifying existing Moonraker files?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And a bonus question: Why in the world would they store slicer settings nested in three different formats? Why?!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;TL;DR:&lt;/strong&gt; Cura stores the print config in the G-code comments, but Klipper/Moonraker can't parse them due to the format. Is there a simple way around this? (aside from writing a plugin or modifying Moonraker files)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;P.S. I do see that some plugins seem related to this but I don't see one that formats and saves the settings to the G-code file. They either just extract them from the G-code, or require you to execute a script every time (or even launch a Node server..)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Update (Answer... Kinda)&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So after looking into the Moonraker python, I can see that there actually is a &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/Arksine/moonraker/blob/master/moonraker/components/file_manager/metadata.py#L459&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;em&gt;Cura&lt;/em&gt; class&lt;/a&gt; that extends &lt;code&gt;BaseSlicer&lt;/code&gt; class, and it's what handles the comment parsing:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;class Cura(BaseSlicer):&#xA;    def check_identity(self, data: str) -&amp;gt; Optional[Dict[str, str]]:&#xA;        match = re.search(r&amp;quot;Cura_SteamEngine\s(.*)&amp;quot;, data)&#xA;        if match:&#xA;            return {&#xA;                'slicer': &amp;quot;Cura&amp;quot;,&#xA;                'slicer_version': match.group(1)&#xA;            }&#xA;        return None&#xA;        &#xA;    # .. Truncated some rows..&#xA;&#xA;    def has_objects(self) -&amp;gt; bool:&#xA;        return self._check_has_objects(self.header_data, r&amp;quot;\n;MESH:&amp;quot;)&#xA;&#xA;    def parse_filament_weight_total(self) -&amp;gt; Optional[float]:&#xA;        return regex_find_float(r&amp;quot;;Filament\sweight\s=\s.(%F).&amp;quot;, self.header_data)&#xA;&#xA;    def parse_filament_type(self) -&amp;gt; Optional[str]:&#xA;        return regex_find_string(r&amp;quot;;Filament\stype\s=\s(%S)&amp;quot;, self.header_data)&#xA;&#xA;    def parse_filament_name(self) -&amp;gt; Optional[str]:&#xA;        return regex_find_string(r&amp;quot;;Filament\sname\s=\s(%S)&amp;quot;, self.header_data)&#xA;&#xA;    # .. Truncated some rows..&#xA;&#xA;    def parse_nozzle_diameter(self) -&amp;gt; Optional[float]:&#xA;        return regex_find_float(r&amp;quot;;Nozzle\sdiameter\s=\s(%F)&amp;quot;, self.header_data)&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And if you look at the regex, it's looking for some config names like &lt;strong&gt;Filament weight&lt;/strong&gt;, &lt;strong&gt;Filament name&lt;/strong&gt;, &lt;strong&gt;Filament type&lt;/strong&gt;, etc. But Cura stores it as just &lt;strong&gt;name&lt;/strong&gt;, &lt;strong&gt;weight&lt;/strong&gt;, and &lt;strong&gt;type&lt;/strong&gt;, but puts it under a &lt;code&gt;[metadata]&lt;/code&gt; section.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, the Cura-style metadata is all just concatenated into one string, which has a line return injected every 80 characters. This means that depending on the values, some of the &lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;names&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt; of the metadata items get truncated halfway through, and have another &lt;code&gt;;SETTING_3&lt;/code&gt; injected as the prefix, which makes it somewhat of a nightmare to simply parse with RegEx.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was trying to avoid having to modify any Moonraker code, but it looks like  I'll just have to alter the Cura class to extract all lines that start with &lt;code&gt;;SETTING_3 &lt;/code&gt;, then concatenate &amp;gt; JSON Parse &amp;gt; INI Parse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40723" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2023-12-07T04:20:04.070" LastActivityDate="2023-12-14T05:03:56.270" Title="How can I get Cura's slicer settings to save into the G-code in a way that Moonraker/Klipper can read them?" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|g-code|prusaslicer|klipper|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21760" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21762" CreationDate="2023-12-06T10:35:51.380" Score="1" ViewCount="188" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found this great DIY '&lt;strong&gt;filament diameter sensor&lt;/strong&gt;' or '&lt;strong&gt;filament width sensor&lt;/strong&gt;'. It is called &lt;strong&gt;In&lt;/strong&gt;line &lt;strong&gt;Fi&lt;/strong&gt;lament &lt;strong&gt;D&lt;/strong&gt;iameter &lt;strong&gt;E&lt;/strong&gt;stimator &lt;strong&gt;L&lt;/strong&gt;owcost (InFiDEL), as shown below. The &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/drspangle/infidel-sensor/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;GitHub project&lt;/a&gt; states:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A cheap, yet precise filament diameter sensor, intended to compensate for filament diameter deviations in real-time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VRSc6.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VRSc6.png&quot; alt=&quot;InFiDEL filament diameter/width sensor&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Model source: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.printables.com/model/57154-infiDANK&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Printables.com&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youmagine.com/designs/infidel-inline-filament-diameter-estimator-lowcost-10-24&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Youmagine.com&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It can essentially be used for flow control. In a &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/RYgdLPe_T0c?si=wqA6Yi6hHtA5MKFk&amp;amp;t=32&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;YouTube video&lt;/a&gt; the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/@MadeWithLayers&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;maker (Thomas Sanladerer)&lt;/a&gt; says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;... the firmware can then compensate for any differences in filament diameter and filament cross-sectional area essentially by adjusting the extrusion multiplier ...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/RYgdLPe_T0c?si=Wa5b6zswdaoeG61r&amp;amp;t=443&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;The video&lt;/a&gt; also explains how three different sized drill bits are used to calibrate the measurement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To my understanding, it uses a principle where a hall effect sensor measures magnetic strength that is translated into a voltage that reflects the diameter, such as 1.78 Volt for 1.78 mm. I plan to implement something like this, however, I don't know how Marlin implements this and I'd like to understand it first. The Marlin documentation does contain several G-codes for a filament width sensor, such as &lt;a href=&quot;https://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M405.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;M405&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;https://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M406.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;M406&lt;/a&gt;, and &lt;a href=&quot;https://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M407.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;M407&lt;/a&gt;, but I cannot find anything about how Marlin implements this. Also, shouldn't the firmware know the distance between the nozzle and the filament width sensor to know when to compensate? The distance seems to be not implemented by Marlin entirely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Lastly, I think that this sensor could also serve as a filament runout sensor by noting that the diameter is simply close to 0 mm.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36802" LastActivityDate="2023-12-06T13:43:56.537" Title="How does Marlin firmware use filament width sensor data for flow control?" Tags="|filament-sensor|sensors|filament-width|filament-diameter|width-sensor|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21761" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16311" CreationDate="2023-12-06T11:40:56.447" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I got interested in the question and did some research. I found PCB drill bits from 0.1-1 mm in 0.1 mm steps for around 7€ and believe they are an interesting option. They should help clean the nozzle (or quickly break in the process?) and I think one could experiment with revitalizing worn nozzles by drilling them up a bit (as they are carbide, they should work well with brass nozzle, hardened steel ones might be too much). Having them (and a Dremel-style tool and proper clamping) could open up a world of nozzle hacking, see e.g. CNC Kitchen on YouTube for what happens if you solder a copper wire into the nozzle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40741" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2023-12-06T14:55:59.147" LastActivityDate="2023-12-06T14:55:59.147" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21762" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21760" CreationDate="2023-12-06T13:35:53.063" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Marlin firmware is ready for connecting such a filament sensor. You need to adjust the configuration (&lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/blob/bugfix-2.1.x/Marlin/Configuration_adv.h&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Configuration_adv.h&lt;/a&gt;) to enable the &lt;code&gt;FILAMENT_WIDTH_SENSOR&lt;/code&gt; definition (remove the &lt;code&gt;//&lt;/code&gt; before &lt;code&gt;#define FILAMENT_WIDTH_SENSOR&lt;/code&gt;):&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Z6DQp.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Snippet of Configuration_adv.h&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Z6DQp.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; title=&quot;Snippet of Configuration_adv.h&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The distance from measurement to melting chamber should and is taken into account.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;shouldn't the firmware know the distance between the nozzle and the filament width sensor to know when to compensate&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The firmware does do that. You can either set the distance inside the firmware compile-time (which is pretty safe as the distance doesn't change much unless you have a Bowden setup where you exchange the tube for a different length tube or use a tool changer/multiple tool heads with different tube lengths) or through G-code:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M405.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;code&gt;M405 D&amp;lt;cm&amp;gt;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/a&gt; specifies that distance through G-code, otherwise the firmware set value is used:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2nxq7.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;M405 G-code usage&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2nxq7.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; title=&quot;M405 G-code usage&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2023-12-06T13:43:56.537" LastActivityDate="2023-12-06T13:43:56.537" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21763" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21681" CreationDate="2023-12-06T14:27:50.523" Score="2" Body="&lt;h3&gt;Short answer&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PID reacts only &lt;strong&gt;after&lt;/strong&gt; the temperature changes are registered by the sensor. MPC instead calculates the expected heat loss &lt;strong&gt;before&lt;/strong&gt; the temperature actually changes and then applies heat to &lt;strong&gt;prevent&lt;/strong&gt; those changes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a graph comparing PID and MPC, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.reddit.com/r/ender3/comments/ykqkta/model_predictive_control_mpc_in_marlin_is_a_game/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;created by Reddit user yelleck&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.reddit.com/r/ender3/comments/ykqkta/model_predictive_control_mpc_in_marlin_is_a_game/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lFpq2.png&quot; alt=&quot;Graph showing the comparison of temperature regulation between PID and MPC&quot; title=&quot;Graph showing the comparison of temperature regulation between PID and MPC&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Slightly derogatory answer&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PID and its modifications&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; is the duct-tape solution to the hotend temperature regulation problem&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;, and MPC is the engineering-PhD solution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Slightly longer answer&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;MPC is a &lt;strong&gt;predictive&lt;/strong&gt; model that compensates &lt;strong&gt;before the temperature actually changes&lt;/strong&gt;. It calculates a physical heat model (effectively a &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thermal_conductance_and_resistance&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Thermal Resistance Circuit)&lt;/a&gt;. Using this, it figures out how much heat energy (in &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Heat&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Joules&lt;/a&gt;) will leave the hotend in a given time—through &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thermal_radiation&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;radiation&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Convection_(heat_transfer)&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;convection&lt;/a&gt;, and extruded &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Heat_capacity&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;molten plastic&lt;/a&gt;—and thus it knows exactly how much heat energy (again in Joules, or &amp;quot;Watts times Seconds&amp;quot;) it has to put in to keep the temperature the same or move to a new temperature. The properties of this physical model (heat capacity, emissivity, etc.) can be obtained automatically with fairly good accuracy or looked up in a table (filament heat capacity per mm).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PID on the other hand is a &lt;strong&gt;reactive&lt;/strong&gt; model that can only work &lt;strong&gt;after the temperature has already changed&lt;/strong&gt;. It is more like a vigilant operator who stares &lt;strong&gt;only&lt;/strong&gt; at the measured difference between the actual and desired temperature. If this temperature difference changes by just a tiny bit, or by a large step, it will immediately try to counteract that error by applying its three rules: P, I, and D.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The three PID coefficients can also be auto-tuned, but the results are... well, let's say there is a reason that there are dozens if not hundreds of PID tuning guides and forum questions out there. The coefficients are not linked to any distinct physical property of your hotend: The geometry, fan, heater power, silicone sock, and filament are all mushed together into three abstract numbers. So far I have tried a handful of times to get a deep, intuitive understanding of PID behavior and tuning, but have failed each time, and honestly, I don't consider it worth my time anymore. MPC just makes so much more sense.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The PID controller does not know or care why the temperature difference changed. It could be due to faster extrusion speed, switching on the fan, or a changed temperature setpoint (&lt;code&gt;M104&lt;/code&gt;), for example. A PID controller has to react to any changes using the same rigid 3-rules-system&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;, although the three situations will in practice require different reactions. The MPC model, on the other hand, can figure out precisely how much each of those changes would influence the temperature and how it must react to prevent that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So in a PID-based system, the temperature will always fluctuate a little &lt;strong&gt;by design&lt;/strong&gt;. It &lt;strong&gt;needs&lt;/strong&gt; those temperature changes in order to know how to react (unless you assume a completely static situation), because it is the only measurement it has. Consequently, a noisy temperature measurement, which looks like a lot of tiny, very fast changes, will force the PID controller to react to them, which leads to even more noticeable fluctuations because the system reacts to a change that isn't really there, since it's just noise. Alternatively, you could make it react slower to ignore these fast noise fluctuations, but that will make it... well... slower.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And why is it more useful for 'high-power heaters'?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As explained above, the PID controller must react to noise. With a high-power heater, even a tiny adjustment in the PWM can lead to a large increase in temperature. So the controller must react more slowly and carefully so as not to overshoot or oscillate. But by going more slowly, you are throwing away the main benefit of your high-power heater, namely: faster heating. Since MPC largely ignores noise, it won't oscillate. And since it knows your heater power in Watts and the exact amount of energy needed in Joules, it can just go &amp;quot;full throttle&amp;quot; when a higher temperature is needed&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt;, stopping just in time to avoid overshooting. With a lower-powered heater, this problem is not so apparent, because it can only go slowly &lt;strong&gt;anyways&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; Yes, Marlin has &lt;code&gt;PID_FUNCTIONAL_RANGE&lt;/code&gt;, &lt;code&gt;PID_EXTRUSION_SCALING&lt;/code&gt;, and &lt;code&gt;PID_FAN_SCALING&lt;/code&gt; to work around these issues. Those are hacky, ad-hoc solutions that try to do the same thing as MPC, but without a correct and complete physical model underneath. It's rather like adding more duct tape to the problem instead of stepping back, understanding the situation, and engineering a proper solution. Also, each of these functions has its own configuration parameters, which require separate tuning, while the auto-tuning in MPC can take care of all of them together (except filament heat capacity, which you can look up or calculate using physics instead). So if you consider using those additional PID features, you are essentially using MPC, but without a solid theoretical foundation, so you could as well go all the way and just use MPC instead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; Don't get me wrong: PID control is a flexible and well-established tool that is for many, many different tasks everywhere. Just like duct tape. But it is not the best tool for every job. A well-tuned PID can control the hotend temperature within a few degrees with little overshoot. It just wasn't specifically &lt;strong&gt;designed&lt;/strong&gt; for this case, and thus it is outperformed by tools that &lt;strong&gt;were&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt; Marlin PID tries to do the same thing with &lt;code&gt;PID_FUNCTIONAL_RANGE&lt;/code&gt;: it goes full power when the temperature difference is greater than this configured value. But with a high-power heater, this is an additional value that you have to tune. And after the PID kicks in, it needs some time to &amp;quot;wind up&amp;quot;, which is another time during which the heater is not using its full potential. Also, the PID coefficients have to be tuned for different, partially conflicting goals: heating up quickly, avoiding overshoots, and avoiding oscillations. Again, all are lumped together into three abstract numbers with no physical meaning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13272" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2023-12-07T04:25:29.733" LastActivityDate="2023-12-07T04:25:29.733" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21764" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20797" CreationDate="2023-12-06T15:03:30.770" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;When you save the PID values after auto-tuning, Klipper will put the new values in a special section &lt;strong&gt;at the end of the config file&lt;/strong&gt; that looks like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#*# &amp;lt;---------------------- SAVE_CONFIG ----------------------&amp;gt;&#xA;#*# DO NOT EDIT THIS BLOCK OR BELOW. The contents are auto-generated.&#xA;#*#&#xA;#*#&#xA;#*# [extruder]&#xA;#*# control = pid&#xA;#*# pid_kp = 25.957&#xA;#*# pid_ki = 1.466&#xA;#*# pid_kd = 114.858&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While these lines look like comments, Klipper will actually load and use them, as described in the issue &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/Klipper3d/klipper/issues/719&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;PID Tuning values not stored correctly?&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13272" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2023-12-06T15:05:56.103" LastActivityDate="2023-12-06T15:05:56.103" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21765" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21732" CreationDate="2023-12-06T19:36:34.107" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can buy metal zip ties. For example, Harbor Freight has a package of &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.harborfreight.com/12-in-stainless-steel-cable-ties-25-pack-60330.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;25 12&amp;quot; stainless steel ties&lt;/a&gt; for $5. With a 115 lb load capacity, these are massive overkill for your application, but they're cheap and they'd give a nice clean look.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1690" LastActivityDate="2023-12-06T19:36:34.107" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21766" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23045" CreationDate="2023-12-06T20:10:10.643" Score="3" ViewCount="140" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just discovered automatic bed leveling (ABL) probes that only use a microswitch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3468254&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;FreeABL&lt;/a&gt; as shown below:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kTB2Rm.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Photo of a FreeABL installed on an Ender 3&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kTB2Rm.png&quot; alt=&quot;Photo of a FreeABL installed on an Ender 3&quot; title=&quot;Photo of a FreeABL installed on an Ender 3&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Source: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3468254&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Thingiverse.com&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or, the magnet mounted &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5320970&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;KlackEnder&lt;/a&gt; as shown below:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ri46km.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;3D rendering of a KlackEnder bed leveling probe&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ri46km.png&quot; alt=&quot;3D rendering of a KlackEnder bed leveling probe&quot; title=&quot;3D rendering of a KlackEnder bed leveling probe&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Source: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5320970&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Thingiverse.com&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both use the simple concept of probing the bed using a microswitch instead of an optical or retractable touching probe, such as the popular BLTouch. However, since no measurement other than touch can be made, how reliable and accurate are such methods? Did someone ever run a &lt;a href=&quot;https://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M048.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Probe Repeatability Test (&lt;code&gt;M48&lt;/code&gt;)&lt;/a&gt; for such microswitch based automatic bed leveling probes, or have experience regarding its reliability?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For reference, a 10-probe &lt;code&gt;M48&lt;/code&gt;-test using my CRTouch results in a deviation of 0.000750.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36802" LastEditorUserId="36802" LastEditDate="2024-02-04T15:21:05.940" LastActivityDate="2024-02-04T16:21:09.020" Title="How can microswitch-based automatic bed leveling probes be possibly reliable and accurate?" Tags="|bed-leveling|bltouch|z-probe|automatic-bed-leveling|sensors|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21767" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-12-06T20:22:26.407" Score="1" ViewCount="289" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've noticed before that when I use a standard USB-cable to connect my Creality Ender 3 V2 printer using its USB port to a Raspberry Pi 4 and powered off the printer, that the LCD screen of the printer stays turned on. Even when the power cable is removed from the power supply of the printer, conclusion: the LCD screen draws power from the Pi over USB.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although that seems like a horrible design for the v4.2.2 Creality board in my opinion I bought a simple PortaPow Power Blocker USB connector as shown below:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3bMIam.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3bMIam.png&quot; alt=&quot;PortaPow USB power blocking connector&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I could imagine there are other solutions to this but my question is: Is cutting the power over USB indeed the right approach? Is it common to do that for this type of printer and is it indeed the result of bad design by Creality?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36802" LastEditorUserId="10369" LastEditDate="2023-12-09T03:35:11.190" LastActivityDate="2023-12-09T04:38:21.070" Title="Is it required to use a data-only USB cable to keep the LCD screen off, when a 3D printer has no other power provided?" Tags="|creality-ender-3|electronics|raspberry-pi|lcd-screen|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21768" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21771" CreationDate="2023-12-06T20:34:15.807" Score="1" ViewCount="57" Body="&lt;p&gt;A few closely related questions about the straightness of linear rods. The 'straightness' of linear rods is vital for a 3D printer to function correctly and prevent things like Z-Banding or Z-Wobble. So, how do we measure the 'straightness' of linear rods? What measurement method or metric can be used?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can imagine using some reference material (a piece of wood or a table), but then again, how would we know the reference material is perfectly straight? Lastly, how straight does it even have to be? What's a standard or acceptable range they should be in, and is there a standard that defines, classifies, and indicates this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36802" LastEditorUserId="36802" LastEditDate="2023-12-06T20:45:29.390" LastActivityDate="2023-12-07T14:10:09.583" Title="What defines the 'straightness' of linear rods and how to measure it?" Tags="|z-axis|linear-motion|axis|linear-rod|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21770" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21772" CreationDate="2023-12-07T12:55:05.390" Score="2" ViewCount="42" Body="&lt;p&gt;Prusa says the MK3S+ draws up to 120 W. So let's say 150 W of inrush current.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$$150 W \div 230 V ≈ 0.65 A$$&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An order of magnitude less than a typical Raspberry Pi optically isolated relay shield can do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there anything I should be aware of when choosing the board? Anything I'm missing here?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20803" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2023-12-07T14:51:00.947" LastActivityDate="2023-12-07T22:39:19.987" Title="Is it safe to use 230 V AC, 10 A relay shield to turn my Prusa MK3S+ on/off using OctoPrint?" Tags="|prusa-i3|power-supply|raspberry-pi|octopi|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21771" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21768" CreationDate="2023-12-07T14:10:09.583" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;A common metric for straightness of shafts in industrial equipment is Total Indicated Runout (TIR). The shaft is placed in V-blocks or ball bearing rollers at its bearing journals. Runout is checked at various positions along its length with a dial indicator as the shaft is rotated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This method could be easily applied to guide rods supported at the same axial locations where they are held in the printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="33030" LastActivityDate="2023-12-07T14:10:09.583" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21772" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21770" CreationDate="2023-12-07T18:01:07.950" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes it is safe to use such relay modules. Note that the printer will use less power than the specified power, when in idle it nearly doesn't use any power at all, the inrush current will be ver low when switching the relay. Furthermore, the relay is capable of handling the current according to its specification. Do note that you are using mains power, which can be dangerous, please make precautions working on mains (pull the plug from the socket) and shield the wires and use proper crimping tools, no solder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have done this with 2 printers, one where I cut the 230 V, but the latest one uses a computer 12 V PSU which has a separate wire (I think this is 5 V) which you can short to start the PSU; this is much safer. I used and use OctoPrint with custom shell scripts to turn on the printer and the hot end cooler fan as described in &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/5812/&quot;&gt;this answer&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tPLh9.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;OctoPrint menu options&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tPLh9.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; title=&quot;OctoPrint menu options&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2023-12-07T22:39:19.987" LastActivityDate="2023-12-07T22:39:19.987" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21774" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21786" CreationDate="2023-12-07T21:35:16.313" Score="0" ViewCount="234" Body="&lt;p&gt;What are the differences between the bed leveling probes BLTouch, CRTouch and 3DTouch in terms of reliability and accuracy?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there some kind of benchmark available? Also, how often should the plastic 'probes' in the BL and 3D touch be replaced? As that problem is solved in CRTouch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36802" LastActivityDate="2023-12-10T07:07:42.350" Title="What's the accuracy and reliability difference between BLTouch, CRTouch and 3D touch?" Tags="|bltouch|automatic-bed-leveling|crtouch|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21776" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21751" CreationDate="2023-12-08T13:09:15.280" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;These sort of questions are hard to answer without having the hardware present. As such, this answer focusses on the observations posted in the question. A troubleshooting could help find the actual problem, and could be put into an answer as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Observations&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By looking at the supplied images (one image in the first post), your printer is underextruding, even the bottom layers do not look good, they also are underextruded. You can see the layer under the top layer:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2cUA8.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2cUA8.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your cold-pull actions have helped a little, the effect is less seriously present:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MG2vG.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MG2vG.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Quoting:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also noticed an erratic squeaking from the motor, not sure if that’s the cause or what I would do if it is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Troubleshooting aid&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should troubleshoot the extruder. It looks as if the frame is littered with small pieces of filament debris that could potentially be grinding debris. Grinding will reduce the amount of filament being extruded with under extrusion as result. Furthermore, check the whole extrusion path if filament can be extruded without too much force. You could decouple/bypass the extruder and feed the Bowden tube manually with a hotend at the correct temperature for your filament. If there is a lot of friction, investigate where this comes from.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2023-12-08T13:09:15.280" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21777" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-12-08T16:38:41.913" Score="3" ViewCount="186" Body="&lt;p&gt;How do you import a multi-part object into PrusaSlicer without losing the position of the parts? For example, I want to print a two-material interlocking structure like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UC7Iy.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UC7Iy.png&quot; alt=&quot;Two-part object with interlocking dovetails&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've tried exporting this from my CAD software (OnShape) as a mesh (STL or OBJ) but when I import it into PrusaSlicer (v2.7.0) the result is either a single object with no internal walls:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yUPIu.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yUPIu.png&quot; alt=&quot;Screenshot of PrusaSlicer 2.7.0 showing a single featureless cube model&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;or (3MF) two objects placed on the build plate individually, so they no longer interlock:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FpLnH.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FpLnH.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Screenshot of PrusaSlicer 2.7.0 where the two parts have been placed onto the build plate individually&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I use a STEP file it at least preserves the position of the parts within a single object, and there are some internal walls, but no internal top and bottom layers which I want for structural reasons (in this case the dovetail will simply crush in the XY plane if the part is tensioned in the Z axis):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hE73u.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hE73u.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Screenshot of PrusaSlicer showing a sliced preview of a single object with two parts&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What's a good way to import multiple parts and have them &amp;quot;print in place&amp;quot;, like they were in the original design?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30913" LastActivityDate="2023-12-27T12:28:18.190" Title="PrusaSlicer: How do I preserve the location of (interlocking) parts in a muliti-part model exported from OnShape / Blender?" Tags="|slicing|prusaslicer|multi-material|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21778" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21777" CreationDate="2023-12-08T17:05:43.213" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've found &lt;strong&gt;a&lt;/strong&gt; way to do this, which I'll document here in case it helps someone else in the future.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Export your parts as a single STEP file&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Import that STEP file into PrusaSlicer&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Set &lt;strong&gt;Print Settings &amp;gt; Multiple Extruders &amp;gt; Advanced &amp;gt; Interface shells&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;(You need to be in &lt;strong&gt;Expert&lt;/strong&gt; mode to see this option)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/w2icK.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Screenshot of PrusaSlicer 2.7.0 showing the Interface Shells option&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/w2icK.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Screenshot of PrusaSlicer 2.7.0 showing the Interface Shells option&quot; title=&quot;Screenshot of PrusaSlicer 2.7.0 showing the Interface Shells option&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The STEP file adds the internal walls, and this &lt;strong&gt;interface shells&lt;/strong&gt; option adds the internal &lt;strong&gt;top and bottom&lt;/strong&gt; layers I was missing:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NtA1r.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Screenshot of PrusaSlicer 2.7.0 showing sliced preview of a two-part print where interior layers / floors can be seen&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NtA1r.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Screenshot of PrusaSlicer 2.7.0 showing sliced preview of a two-part print where interior layers / floors can be seen&quot; title=&quot;Screenshot of PrusaSlicer 2.7.0 showing sliced preview of a two-part print where interior layers / floors can be seen&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30913" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2023-12-09T04:43:13.943" LastActivityDate="2023-12-09T04:43:13.943" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21779" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21752" CreationDate="2023-12-08T17:14:53.247" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, recycled PLA loses mechanical properties.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to Dr. D-Flo's excellent video on &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jXY1EygE4R8&amp;amp;t=1060s&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Recycling 3D Prints and Waste plastic into Filament (PET &amp;amp; PLA)&lt;/a&gt; it loses mechanical strength during every thermal cycle - i.e. when it is printed, when it is melted down for recycling, when it is next printed, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Manufacturers account for this by mixing in &amp;quot;virgin&amp;quot; PLA. So &amp;quot;recycled PLA&amp;quot; is really a mix of recycled and new PLA. This will lessen the extent to which the recycled portion will affect overall strength of the result.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do not know if/how manufacturers would account for how many thermal cycles the PLA you supply has been through.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the mix of virgin/recycled PLA has more virgin than recycled, then it may not matter. If the mix favoured recycled then each batch would be worse than the one before. I suppose manufacturers can test a sample from the beginning of their re-extrusion, and if they find it too brittle (etc.) they can change the mix before continuing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30913" LastActivityDate="2023-12-08T17:14:53.247" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21780" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21774" CreationDate="2023-12-08T17:26:54.153" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found Teaching Tech's comparison of probes quite thorough and informative: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2o8woJfTEVc&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Six popular ABL probes compared: Accuracy, price, wiring and more! - YouTube&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My take away was that all the ones he tested were more accurate than a hobbyist 3D printer needs, so it really comes down to convenience: which is the easier / cheaper option for your situation. He has this great infographic in his video's conclusion:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AXfI5.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AXfI5.png&quot; alt=&quot;Infographic showing that the standard deviation of the tested probes is about a tenth the width of a human hair, which is itself about a third the width of a typical first layer height&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;He also published a Google Doc with his results: &lt;a href=&quot;https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1WBiVcpveZ6M4_9UFFYqyIkRJ9Zl8H9jsew6h-QpCWnI/edit#gid=0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;TT testing - Google Sheets&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30913" LastActivityDate="2023-12-08T17:26:54.153" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21781" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-12-08T17:33:26.433" Score="0" ViewCount="36" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9n3lR.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9n3lR.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We are having an issue where the bottom of every print is not sticking to the bed but the brim is great but when it starts the print it start in the corner and the filament does not lay flat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40770" LastActivityDate="2023-12-09T04:41:27.983" Title="Bottom messing up" Tags="|troubleshooting|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21782" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21781" CreationDate="2023-12-08T17:56:50.940" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I assume that's a photo of the bottom of a print?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To my eyes that looks like the filament is being squished into the bed way too much, which may result in it being dragged along with the nozzle, which causes it to curl up behind the nozzle a detach.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Try increasing your Z-offset, so the nozzle is slightly &lt;strong&gt;higher&lt;/strong&gt; than it is now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;... it also looks like the filament is not sticking to itself at all. What type of filament is that, what print settings did you use, and what sort of bed surface do you use (PEI? Is it heated?)? Make sure the bed is clean - I recommend using soap and water to clean it like you would your hands, and &lt;strong&gt;then&lt;/strong&gt; isopropyl alcohol to remove any oils your fingers (or moisturiser in the soap) may have left.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The usual steps for poor bed adhesion are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Clean the bed properly&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Slow down the print&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Increase the temperature of the bed (~60 °C for PLA is usual)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If none of that worked, you can try putting down a layer of gluestick (like you used as a child, i.e. PVA glue). It is water soluble, so you can just wash it off the part and bed when you are done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also buy specialist glues like &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.3dlac.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;3Dlac&lt;/a&gt; if nothing else seems to work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30913" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2023-12-09T04:41:27.983" LastActivityDate="2023-12-09T04:41:27.983" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21783" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21674" CreationDate="2023-12-09T03:16:16.813" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can accomplish this with a multiple extruder 3D printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll have one extruder print in transparent and another in red. However, you'll also need a third extruder to print &amp;quot;soluble&amp;quot; supports.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you print with soluble supports, there are extra columns used to secure partly &amp;quot;floating&amp;quot; objects like the red nerve during the 3D printing process. After the print is done, you drop the 3D print in water. The soluble supports dissolve away, leaving just the nerve and the tooth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Soluble supports and multi-extrusion printing are how you would print something like this. I'm not sure if you'll go through the effort to do it, but it can be done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have no experience with transparent filament though, it looks like by the other answers it's not very good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10369" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2023-12-09T04:39:18.173" LastActivityDate="2023-12-09T04:39:18.173" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21784" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21767" CreationDate="2023-12-09T03:28:10.797" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If your question is whether a data-only USB cable is required in order to keep the LCD screen off until 12 V power is applied, then the answer is yes. However, then realize that you won't be able to flash new firmware onto your 3D printer board nor upload new 3D prints until 12 V power is applied again. Every time you want to upload a new 3D print to your printer, you'll have to turn on the heavy power supply attached to the wall. In the long run, this may use more energy, if for example, you forget to turn off your printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ultimately, I think that I agree with you though, that this is a questionable design choice. On the other hand, 3D printers emit a ton of microplastic, and you probably shouldn't be using them in an environment where the light from an LCD screen would bother you. (Not in a bedroom, for example.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On most 3D printer boards, everything 5 V and below is powered by the USB cable, &lt;strong&gt;or&lt;/strong&gt; the 12 V power supply. If one is active, they will be powered. If you had relays attached to 5 V pins, for example, they would be &amp;quot;on&amp;quot; when the USB cable is attached, just like the LCD screen, and just like all the &amp;quot;thinking&amp;quot; parts of the 3D printer board. The &amp;quot;muscle&amp;quot; like the motors and heaters rely on 12 V and obviously aren't powered by USB. Everything 5 V and below is flexible in that way, it can be powered by USB or 12 V, but 12 V can only be powered by 12 V. (This is only within the context of 3D printer boards... there are other things called boost converters that can convert 5 V to 12 V, but there is not enough power from USB to do that to power a 3D printer.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some boards like the SKR mini v1.1 have a movable jumper that you can use to choose whether things like the LCD screen are powered by the 5 V USB input or the buck converter attached to the 12 V power supply. (However, this is a really cheap board.) With this board, you wouldn't need a data-only USB cable. I don't recommend this board, however.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It might also be possible to turn off the power provided to all USB ports using software on the Raspberry Pi.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You don't need a special adapter like that, either. You can use a small and removable piece of masking/duct tape, and some tweezers, to turn any USB cable into a data-only USB cable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10369" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2023-12-09T04:38:21.070" LastActivityDate="2023-12-09T04:38:21.070" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21785" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-12-09T10:44:58.310" Score="3" ViewCount="71" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am reading into 5-axis printers as shown below in a &lt;a href=&quot;https://hackaday.com/2022/03/13/5-axis-3d-printing-for-the-rest-of-us/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;modified Prusa i3&lt;/a&gt; by Jenny List:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ghqlr.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;3D rendering of a Prusa i3 with a rotating gantry creating a 5-axis printer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ghqlr.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;3D rendering of a Prusa i3 with a rotating gantry creating a 5-axis printer&quot; title=&quot;3D rendering of a Prusa i3 with a rotating gantry creating a 5-axis printer&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The process of printing non-planar patterns on a 5-axis printer is intriguing to watch, as shown below by Garth Benson:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/71EWQ.gif&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;An animated .GIF of a 5-Axis printer printing a 3D model&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/71EWQ.gif&quot; alt=&quot;An animated .GIF of a 5-Axis printer printing a 3D model&quot; title=&quot;An animated .GIF of a 5-Axis printer printing a 3D model&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Zniry.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Photo of non-planar print (a clear, S-shaped tube) on 5-axis printer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Zniry.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Photo of non-planar print (a clear, S-shaped tube) on 5-axis printer&quot; title=&quot;Photo of non-planar print (a clear, S-shaped tube) on 5-axis printer&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Source: &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/lqxgfAbWB6U?si=CKAmuTboIiNk3h40&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;YouTube.com&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The slicing tools available for 5-axis printers are pretty limited, to my understanding. Is there an easy way to slice any file containing planar or non-planar patterns for a 5-axis printer such as the &lt;a href=&quot;https://freddiehong.com/2022/02/28/open5x-accessible-5-axis-3d-printing-and-conformal-slicing/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Open5x&lt;/a&gt;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36802" LastEditorUserId="36802" LastEditDate="2024-01-01T12:24:54.510" LastActivityDate="2024-01-01T12:24:54.510" Title="Is there an easy way to slice any file containing planar or non-planar patterns for a 5-axis printer?" Tags="|slicing|planar|non-planar|5-axis|open5x|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21786" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21774" CreationDate="2023-12-09T19:40:43.290" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This answer goes into the &lt;strong&gt;reliability aspects&lt;/strong&gt; of the often-discussed &lt;em&gt;&amp;quot;&lt;a href=&quot;/questions/16604/automatic-bed-leveling-abl-with-a-sensor-bltouch-inductive-capacitive-how&quot;&gt;Touch sensors&lt;/a&gt;&amp;quot;&lt;/em&gt; within the 3D printing community based on experience with the BLTouch and the 3D Touch..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Throughout my journey in 3D printing, I've had the opportunity to experiment with various iterations of clones (from metal pins to plastic pins), referred to as the &amp;quot;3D Touch&amp;quot;, attempting to emulate the renowned BLTouch sensor. One undeniable allure of these clones is their significantly lower price point, which tricked me into buying them being a budget-conscious 3D print enthusiast. However, it's essential to describe my experiences with these clones, which spanned up until 2019.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At first glance, these clones seemed promising, operating as expected and demonstrating competence in their initial usage. However, this initial phase was short-lived, as many of them eventually caved in to issues that severely impacted their reliability. These problems typically manifested in one of two ways: they either ceased to function altogether or exhibited erratic behavior by unpredictably deploying and retracting the probing pin during critical operations such as &lt;code&gt;G28&lt;/code&gt; and &lt;code&gt;G29&lt;/code&gt; G-code executions. The latter issue, characterized by premature pin deployment when the print bed was not adequately lowered (CoreXY), often resulted in disrupted Auto Bed Leveling (ABL, &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/18451/what-is-abl-or-ubl-is-this-the-same&quot;&gt;What is ABL or UBL? Is this the same?&lt;/a&gt;) sessions, leading to subpar print outcomes (actually no print at all...) and frustration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In contrast, after making the switch to a genuine BLTouch sensor, the transformation in reliability was remarkable. It has faithfully served its purpose on my CoreXY printer for a continuous span of approximately five years, without a hint of trouble. The consistent and error-free performance of the authentic BLTouch has not only elevated the quality of my 3D prints but has also instilled confidence in the reliability of my 3D printing endeavors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In essence, while cost-effective alternatives may initially appear enticing, investing in a genuine BLTouch sensor can undoubtedly pay itself in terms of frustration, reliability and long-term satisfaction. In hindsight, buying a genuine BLTouch would have actually saved me; &amp;quot;Penny wise, pound foolish&amp;quot; comes directly to mind.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2023-12-10T07:07:42.350" LastActivityDate="2023-12-10T07:07:42.350" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21787" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-12-10T17:26:25.967" Score="1" ViewCount="122" Body="&lt;p&gt;I printed a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4634481&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Raspberry Pi camera arm&lt;/a&gt; for my Ender 3 V2 as a second camera that's not connected statically to the printer frame but to the printer bed instead. I now have two cameras, both from different angles, each with advantages.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, the moving bed results in severe vibration. I need anti-vibration or stabilization methods for my very light Raspberry Pi camera. I was thinking about doing something with some rubber bands somehow or making a mold to make a silicon block(s) that I will use to replace some part(s) in the middle of the arm, disconnecting the plastic so it can potentially absorb some vibration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Below is an example of the vibration viewed from my Raspberry Pi camera. The image is cropped, speed up and compressed to fit in an animated GIF under 2 MB for this site. The original is in higher resolution but the vibration is visible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UVYOD.gif&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Close up of Raspberry Pi camera vibration when connected on arm to 3R printer bed&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UVYOD.gif&quot; alt=&quot;Close up of Raspberry Pi camera vibration when connected on arm to 3R printer bed&quot; title=&quot;Close up of Raspberry Pi camera vibration when connected on arm to 3R printer bed&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36802" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2023-12-11T04:42:26.543" LastActivityDate="2023-12-13T02:40:41.727" Title="How to reduce vibration on a camera arm connected to the printer bed?" Tags="|creality-ender-3|raspberry-pi|stability|camera|vibration|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21788" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-12-10T20:34:09.427" Score="1" ViewCount="53" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've had a lot of trouble getting prints off of my build plate. So much so that I ripped off the SpiderSheet, cleaned the glass thoroughly, and applied a new one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Bewbb.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Photo of the old SpiderSheet over the buildplate&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Bewbb.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Photo of the old SpiderSheet over the buildplate&quot; title=&quot;Photo of the old SpiderSheet over the buildplate&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I ended up stopping the 1st print I did because it looked like the nozzle was digging into the bed. I had to go to 220 °C with this PLA because otherwise, it's all fluff. Is my issue perhaps an unlevel bed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/peeNA.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Photo of a new SpiderSheet over the buildplate&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/peeNA.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Photo of a new SpiderSheet over the buildplate&quot; title=&quot;Photo of a new SpiderSheet over the buildplate&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I run a Creality Ender-2 with an older firmware.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/K9sca.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Photo of the Ender-2 display showing the firmware as TH3D U1.R2.7&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/K9sca.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Photo of the Ender-2 display showing the firmware as TH3D U1.R2.7&quot; title=&quot;Photo of the Ender-2 display showing the firmware as TH3D U1.R2.7&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40594" LastEditorUserId="36802" LastEditDate="2023-12-12T21:04:23.197" LastActivityDate="2023-12-12T21:04:23.197" Title="Is an unlevel bed the reason I have trouble getting prints off a SpiderSheet?" Tags="|print-quality|creality-ender-2|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21789" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21791" CreationDate="2023-12-10T21:00:49.320" Score="1" ViewCount="187" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some parts of &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6304780&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this model&lt;/a&gt; when slicing in Cura are just being deleted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is the part of the model before slicing; notice how there is a wall between the threads and the inside&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MWuFy.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MWuFy.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And after slicing, that wall is just gone, and this wouldn't be practical to print.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6Wu1e.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6Wu1e.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And turning on supports doesn't fix the problem in the slightest.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DIuaN.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DIuaN.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dSfA3.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dSfA3.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40789" LastEditorUserId="36802" LastEditDate="2023-12-10T21:58:25.920" LastActivityDate="2023-12-11T04:43:01.803" Title="Why does Cura remove a part of a model when slicing?" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|slicing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21791" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21789" CreationDate="2023-12-10T23:34:31.607" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;As mentioned in the comments. Probably the model contains too little space for the slicer to be able to slice for that nozzle size and resolution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You have a few options:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Scale up the model&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use a smaller nozzle and a higher resolution&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Change the model to include thicker walls&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maybe you can increase wall thickness in slicer settings and achieve the same, although I am not sure of it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As mentioned by you, apparently PrusaSlicer did work. It's interesting to figure out what the actual difference is. Isn't it just the wrong visualization in Cura? Did you try to print that Cura-sliced model or preview it top-down layer for layer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36802" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2023-12-11T04:43:01.803" LastActivityDate="2023-12-11T04:43:01.803" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21792" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21787" CreationDate="2023-12-11T08:40:56.410" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I mounted my Pi camera for Octoprint to the table, rather than the frame of the printer; works fine for me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have a long lever arm it will vibrate. So try for more points of contact with the frame.  Three would be ideal, nit one is definitely insufficient.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another option is to mount the camera directly to the printer head - that seems to be common for super-short focus endoscope-style cameras.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12956" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2023-12-11T15:02:53.667" LastActivityDate="2023-12-11T15:02:53.667" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21793" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21788" CreationDate="2023-12-11T10:13:09.383" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well, if the nozzle digs into the bed, then that means the nozzle is too close to the bed. That has nothing to do with the Spider Sheet or whatever other surface you are using. Two reasons come to mind:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Your bed is uneven/warped. While glass plates are normally pretty flat, you can bend them by clamping them down to a warped heated aluminum base.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Your X/Y axes (the guide rods) might be bent a little. If the bed or head is higher/lower in some positions than others, then the nozzle will touch the bed in some positions. Even if your bed were perfectly flat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Possible solutions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Re-level your bed (hopefully you have already done this before asking this question).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Add mesh bed leveling to your printer (don't know if your printer supports it though).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13272" LastActivityDate="2023-12-11T10:13:09.383" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21794" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21564" CreationDate="2023-12-11T16:32:05.793" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You barely save energy keeping a plate warm a few extra minutes, certainly with an insulated bottom. It will not cost much electricity. This has been seen before in various answers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The chance the print releases increases with stopping heating the bed and increases the chance to mess up the print requiring a reprint. This will add frustration, filament costs and energy costs. Best interval is therefore zero (based on experience with printing on glass, at a certain temperature the print comes free from the build plate on glass). But, different surfaces may hold the print even when cold. E.g. PETG on PEI bonds very well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you really want to stop heating the bed, you need to determine for a few various sized prints the point at which the print releases. Based on your tests you could device a strategy to stop heating the bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to release a print sooner after printing, get a removable build plate, e.g. a flexible coated steel plate or a few sheets of glass and place the print with glass in the fridge or somewhere where it is cooler.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2023-12-11T16:32:05.793" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21795" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21787" CreationDate="2023-12-11T18:42:46.520" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Looking at the project you linked, there is a couple of things you should consider to reduce vibration:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;More points of contact. One point gives your arm a lot of freedom left-right, and not insignificant amount of up-down flex. For a 3D construction, ideally you would have N+1 = 4 mounting points.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Camera mount &lt;strong&gt;not&lt;/strong&gt; on rotating axis. This, again, is a point of freedom that can vibrate very well. Glue it up or redesign,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Make it as light as possible. This arm looks way heavier than it needs to, especially at the end. It can very well narrow down towards the end significantly without significant stiffness reduction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Use wider lenses and shorter arm. Shorter arm will vibrate less.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Make sure your cable is not an issue - it should move easily with the camera. Secure it along the arm so it cannot pull on the camera at all. Make sure it is short enough not to hook on anything. Make sure it's long enough not to pull on anything in any position. If these are contradictory, redesign for them to not be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20803" LastActivityDate="2023-12-11T18:42:46.520" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21796" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21565" CreationDate="2023-12-11T20:18:53.573" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;While it's plausible that it might increase lifetime, I doubt it. Unless you're driving them out of spec and allowing them to overheat, motor coils should last pretty much indefinitely. The main wear component in a stepper motor is the bearings, not the coils, and the bearings do not get any additional wear from having the coils energized, only from actually turning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The advantage you &lt;strong&gt;do&lt;/strong&gt; get from turning off the steppers is energy savings. As long as the stepper is energized, you're burning roughly &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$I^2R$&lt;/span&gt; watts, where &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$I$&lt;/span&gt; is the current you're driving the motor at and &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$R$&lt;/span&gt; is the coil resistance. You also eliminate the stepper hum, which can be really infuriating to some people's ears, and if your board has properly firmware-switchable fans, you let the fans power down too, which also saves energy and cuts noise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another aspect that can be an advantage or a disadvantage is that, once steppers are powered off, you can move the motion components by hand. This can be nice for adjusting the toolhead and bed to remove the completed print, but it can also cause the toolhead or bed to fall due to gravity, which can lead to damage to the printed part or the printer. If this is an issue, on most kinematic systems (pretty much anything but delta or corexz) you can leave the Z stepper(s) energized between prints, and only disable the X/Y ones. The reduction gearing/leadscrew lead on most printers makes it so Z doesn't need anywhere near the current of X/Y, so turning off X/Y and just leaving Z engaged still gets you most of the power conservation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastEditorUserId="11157" LastEditDate="2023-12-11T21:42:29.463" LastActivityDate="2023-12-11T21:42:29.463" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21797" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-12-11T21:22:22.740" Score="0" ViewCount="52" Body="&lt;p&gt;I understand that &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ferrite_bead&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;ferrite rings&lt;/a&gt; effectively reduce &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Electromagnetic_interference&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;electromagnetic interference (EMI)&lt;/a&gt;. However, I'm not sure how much stepper motors are exposed to EMI and, therefore, if adding ferrite rings to the stepper motor wires has any effect. I'm curious how the potential reduction in EMI might impact the accuracy, performance, and stability of stepper motors in a 3D printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36802" LastEditorUserId="36802" LastEditDate="2023-12-12T09:56:24.633" LastActivityDate="2023-12-12T09:56:24.633" Title="What are the potential benefits of using ferrite rings on the stepper motor wires regarding performance or accuracy?" Tags="|electronics|stepper|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21799" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14130" CreationDate="2023-12-12T02:18:08.850" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In addition to the previously answered &amp;quot;Exclude Region&amp;quot; plugin for OctoPrint, the &amp;quot;Cancel Object&amp;quot; plugin for OctoPrint also works excellently.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Cancel single objects during a print based on code comment lines&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This plugin allows the user to cancel single objects during a print while allowing the remaining objects to print normally. Instructions for use with compatible slicers are provided on the plugin’s GitHub Homepage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iSoO7.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Cancel object plugin screenshot in OctoPrint&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iSoO7.png&quot; alt=&quot;Cancel object plugin screenshot in OctoPrint&quot; title=&quot;Cancel object plugin screenshot in OctoPrint&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Source: &lt;a href=&quot;https://plugins.octoprint.org/plugins/cancelobject/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;OctoPrint-Cancelobject&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36802" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2023-12-12T04:30:31.430" LastActivityDate="2023-12-12T04:30:31.430" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21800" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-12-12T14:06:54.140" Score="1" ViewCount="143" Body="&lt;p&gt;A thick power cable will go into my 3D-printed device, and I am looking for options to design a &amp;quot;pull relief&amp;quot; against the full pull power of a human.&#xA;Ideally, it should be designed mostly on a flat surface and heat-resistant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, forming a U-loop from the cable and applying a zip tie provides perfect pull relief that I am unable to break with my hands.&#xA;However, I am struggling to translate that knowledge into some 3D-print-friendly design.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've been thinking about creating a clamp of sorts consisting of two plastic elements, where the second one is pushed into the cable using a screw from the outside - am I going in a good direction?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can you suggest a working design for such pull relief without the zip tie?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some ideas for inspiration:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/tool/power-cord-cable-strain-relief&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Power Cord/Cable Strain Relief&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.3dforprint.com/3dmodel/strain-relief-clip/5452&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Strain relief clip 3D for print&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B00MFSEYGG&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Hillman 58236 0.375 Diameter Round Strain Relief Bushing&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40808" LastEditorUserId="36802" LastEditDate="2023-12-14T06:58:47.437" LastActivityDate="2024-01-29T12:23:46.417" Title="How to design a cable pull relief?" Tags="|pla|3d-design|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21801" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-12-12T16:21:12.240" Score="-1" ViewCount="62" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just got this Artillery Hornet printer. I am new to the 3D printing but the printer is not new.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The glass bed was leveled from the Marlin firmware menu (&lt;strong&gt;Motion &amp;gt; Bed leveling &amp;gt; Level corners&lt;/strong&gt;) and I manually adjusted the distance of all corners to be exactly 0.1 mm from the nozzle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The printer works fine but I am not satisfied with the glass bed which does have adhesion problems with PLA, it is difficult to print the first layer with a reasonably low temperature for the bed and filament.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I wanted to do was to install a new PEI bed, but faced the following problem: before the printer started printing from G-code, the head would go to the bottom right corner and hit the glass bed with the nozzle once. Then it continues on the appropriate level. Since the nozzle is made of brass and the bed is glass it won't do any noticeable damage to the bed surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I am not entirely sure if it is safe for the nozzle or PEI that I am about to install. Is it normal that the printer would do something like this or does it need to be adjusted/fixed somehow?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this common or is this on purpose?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My understanding is that before printing, the head is parked at the home position. Therefore, the Z-axis limit sensor needs to be reached. This is the moment when it happens. This printer is not equipped with Automatic Bed Leveling (ABL).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40809" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2023-12-13T05:02:49.520" LastActivityDate="2023-12-13T15:05:28.363" Title="Nozzle hitting bed corner before it stars printing" Tags="|bed-leveling|homing|artillery-hornet|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21802" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-12-12T18:07:27.893" Score="2" ViewCount="137" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been digging through the Marlin code from GitHub, and I'm hoping that someone could direct me where to add a custom motor driver. I figure someone here already is familiar with the code and it would save me a lot of time digging.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know someone will ask why I'm asking how I can add my own drivers...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;To find out if what I'm trying to do has already been done by someone else, or if there is something close I could tweak (code reuse).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I am attempting to make an absolutely minimal controller board that drives really small steppers. I can easily drive the steppers directly with four TTL outputs (with some output protection of course). I have already experimentally shown it works and is solid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;More important than the above, I'd like to give it a try just for the learning experience. As they say, &amp;quot;the journey is the destination&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40812" LastEditorUserId="40812" LastEditDate="2023-12-13T22:07:49.577" LastActivityDate="2023-12-18T18:06:59.653" Title="How do I add a custom motor driver to Marlin?" Tags="|marlin|g-code|firmware|software|stepper-driver|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21803" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-12-12T18:14:40.173" Score="1" ViewCount="47" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to tweak my speeds to see what I can get out of my printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have an Ender 3 v2 with dual Z steppers, E3D Hemera XS and Klipper with a 0.4 nozzle printing PETG Filament.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After changing the speeds I started getting this at the end of the lines:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kriS1.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kriS1.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Faster Speed&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is where the nozzle turns back for the next line. I'm trying to find out if there is a setting to fix this but I'm struggling with what to search for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What would this be called and is there a settings that can change this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Speeds:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Perimeters = 60 mm/s&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Small perimeters = 15 mm/s&lt;br&gt;&#xA;External perimeters = 50%&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Infill = 80 mm/s&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Solid infill = 40 mm/s&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Top solid infill = 15 mm/s&lt;br&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Layer height = 0.2mm&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40743" LastEditorUserId="40743" LastEditDate="2023-12-13T10:25:14.390" LastActivityDate="2023-12-13T13:37:41.023" Title="Overlapping filament after increasing speeds Prusa Slicer" Tags="|prusaslicer|speed|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21804" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-12-12T18:41:39.027" Score="1" ViewCount="139" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am facing persistent issues with under-extrusion and print instability on my Creality CR6 SE 3D printer. Despite using different PLA filaments from various manufacturers such as Eryone, Jayo, Prusament, Redline, and Amazon Basic, I consistently encounter problems with thin lines and unreliable prints.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Notably, the same filaments perform well on my Prusa Mini, ruling out filament quality as the sole culprit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6EMS2.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6EMS2.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are the key details:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Running the latest Community Firmware.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;PLA filaments are stored adequately, ranging from a few weeks to several years old.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hotend temperature settings range from 205-215 °C with a 60 °C heated bed.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Standard settings slightly modified for wider inner perimeters (0.6 mm) and higher temperature for stability.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Occasional difficulties during filament changes, even with the extruder released and the nozzle adequately heated.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have performed some troubleshooting steps, including changing filaments, adjusting Z offset, and ensuring proper storage conditions. However, the issue persists. I also cleaned the extruder. Could it helb to replace the PTFE tube with a Capricorn tube?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there additional steps I should consider or specific settings that could be impacting my print quality? Any insights or guidance would be greatly appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have checked other questions on this site, but with no helpfull result for me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40811" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2023-12-12T19:04:45.170" LastActivityDate="2023-12-14T08:36:53.053" Title="Experiencing Under-Extrusion and Print Instability on CReality CR6 SE with Various PLA Filaments" Tags="|troubleshooting|underextrusion|creality-cr-6|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21805" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22825" CreationDate="2023-12-12T22:00:38.703" Score="2" ViewCount="180" Body="&lt;p&gt;As per the Marlin documentation for G-code &lt;a href=&quot;https://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M413.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;M413 - Power-loss Recovery&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When Power-loss Recovery is enabled, and Marlin runs a print job &lt;strong&gt;from the SD Card or Flash Drive&lt;/strong&gt;, it periodically saves the print job state to the SD Card / Flash Drive. If the machine crashes or a power outage occurs, Marlin presents the option to resume the interrupted print job.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the printer is controlled by a host over USB instead (such as OctoPrint), can you still use Power-loss Recovery?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36802" LastActivityDate="2023-12-18T20:14:38.050" Title="Can you use Power-loss Recovery when printing from OctoPrint?" Tags="|marlin|octoprint|power-loss-recovery|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21806" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21787" CreationDate="2023-12-13T02:40:41.727" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Every object or structure has one or more criticals, i.e. frequencies at which it will resonate if excited by a source of kinetic energy vibrating near one of the criticals. A relatively small vibration close to a critical frequency can excite a very large vibration in an object whose physical properties cause it to resonate at that frequency. Resonance occurs when the vibration cycles are in phase and reinforce themselves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3D printers, with pulsed motors and moving parts operating across a wide spectrum of speeds, will certainly produce a broad range of vibration frequencies. Some of those might excite an object or structure physically connected to them.&#xA;Common engineering practice for suppressing vibration at or near criticals consists of &lt;strong&gt;making changes to one or more of these - excitation frequency, mass or stiffness.&lt;/strong&gt; Nothing else will be effective.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's probably impractical to try to change or dampen the myriad vibrations that a 3D printer produces. You'll most likely have more success trying to change the mass or stiffness of whatever is experiencing unacceptable levels of vibration.  It should be noted that in some cases reducing mass or stiffness can be as effective as increasing them. The objective is to move the object's critical frequencies away from the frequency of whatever is exciting it. This is often a trial and error process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="33030" LastActivityDate="2023-12-13T02:40:41.727" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21807" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22807" CreationDate="2023-12-13T03:51:49.457" Score="2" ViewCount="198" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been attempting to 3D print a hollow cube, but I'm encountering issues with noticeable gaps between the walls. Despite adjusting the Extrusion multiplier and width settings, the results remain unchanged. Can someone provide guidance on how to address this issue or suggest alternative parameters to tweak for a more solid print?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Filament Used: eSun ePLA-HS High-Speed Filament 1.75 mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bed Temp: 60 °C&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Nozzle Temp: 220 °C&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/I8pDy.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/I8pDy.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bBDON.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bBDON.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pOR00.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pOR00.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36876" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2023-12-15T21:04:01.163" LastActivityDate="2023-12-15T21:04:01.163" Title="What could be the underlying reasons for the spaces or voids between the layers?" Tags="|print-quality|creatbot-f430|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22807" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21807" CreationDate="2023-12-13T07:35:55.223" Score="6" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What could be the underlying reasons for the spaces or voids between the layers?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Underextrusion&lt;/strong&gt; is what is called the phenomenon you see.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a calibrated printer, which is pretty much how you get them delivered, there should not be any fiddling with the extrusion multiplier parameter necessary to get reasonable prints.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When underextrusion appears in your prints, this usually suggests that something is wrong in the extruder to spool to nozzle path.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many of the underextrusion can be related to e.g. (this is an example list and may not be complete, but, given the question it is hard to pinpoint to a specific issue):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Too much friction on the spool,&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Entangled, or tight winded filament&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Too much friction in unrolling/turning the spool&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Obstructions in the nozzle&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Carbonized debris in the nozzle&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Problems with the PTFE tube in the heat break&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Problems with the extruder&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Slipping/skipping filament; not enoungh force to move the filament&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Grinding filament; too much force to move the filament&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;etc.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You need to do some troubleshooting, inspecting and cleaning of the complete extrusion path and address any problem you encounter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2023-12-13T14:43:28.567" LastActivityDate="2023-12-13T14:43:28.567" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22808" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21801" CreationDate="2023-12-13T11:24:30.007" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not familiar with your printer but I've had that happen as part of a filament heating routine where the nozzle touches the bed while the extruder heats up. The intention was to stop the filament from leaking out. In my case, it was part of the start G-code set up in my slicer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You don't mention the slicer you are using so here is where you find it in the two I use:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Prusa Slicer: &lt;strong&gt;Printer settings tab &amp;gt; Left panel Custom G-code&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cura: &lt;strong&gt;Settings menu &amp;gt; Printer &amp;gt; Manage printers &amp;gt; Machine settings &amp;gt; Start G-code.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40743" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2023-12-13T15:05:28.363" LastActivityDate="2023-12-13T15:05:28.363" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22809" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21803" CreationDate="2023-12-13T13:37:41.023" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This looks like your &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.klipper3d.org/Pressure_Advance.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Pressure Advance&lt;/a&gt; might not be tuned correctly. At higher speeds, PA is practically a necessity. I found that &lt;a href=&quot;https://ellis3dp.com/Pressure_Linear_Advance_Tool/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Ellis' PA Pattern&lt;/a&gt; is quite good for this purpose (it's also integrated into OrcaSlicer, if you use that).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13272" LastActivityDate="2023-12-13T13:37:41.023" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22810" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23164" CreationDate="2023-12-13T15:23:50.083" Score="2" ViewCount="77" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is my first time printing flexible filaments.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have been trying to print a flexible case for my mini-PC using the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.esun3d.com/elastic-tpe-83a-product/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;TPE 83A by eSun&lt;/a&gt; on my KP3S pro.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whenever I try to print it starts well, then after printing a few strokes, the print systematically fails.&#xA;It is not an adhesion/levelling problem as I installed a BLTouch probe and made a 12x12 points grid of my 200x200 printing bed, which works perfectly with PLA.&#xA;It seems that after printing a few lines, the nozzle just stopped extruding filament anymore (see photos); although the extrusion gear still seems to be turning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;FYI my nozzle is a hardened steel nozzle, that I recently acquired to replace the original brass nozzle (because I wanted to print abrasive filament). Could it be the problem? I read that a hardened steel nozzle may not conduct heat as well. I did try a wide range of temperatures and saw the same results; also given the small size of the MK8 nozzle used by the KP3S, I would wager that heat losses due to poor heat conductivity of the nozzle may not be as important no? (I guess that the delta in temperature between the contact point with the heating  also depends on the length of the nozzle)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other information:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I print in an enclosure&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I try to keep my filament dry by using a heating box + desiccant&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Also the filament doesn't seem to warp, the filament that is on the bed seems to be well adhered. The problem seems to come from the &amp;quot;extrusion system&amp;quot;, whereby the filament just stops extruding.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I used the recommended printing profile for flexible filament (e.g. reducing speed to 35 mm/s for top speed and to 20 mm/s for the first layers, retraction distance at 1 mm)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hbdmV.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Photo of a 3D model printed with TPE filament failing at the edge&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hbdmV.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Photo of a 3D model printed with TPE filament failing at the edge&quot; title=&quot;Photo of a 3D model printed with TPE filament failing at the edge&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any idea of what might be happening? I gleaned a lot of info from &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/657/proper-settings-for-printing-rubber-and-rubber-like-materials&quot;&gt;Proper settings for printing rubber and rubber-like materials?&lt;/a&gt; on printing flexible filaments. I will perform a bunch of tweaks based on that question to hopefully troubleshoot my way to a proper print through trial and error; however, it would be nice if someone has a better idea that could direct me as to what could be the problem given the symptoms observed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40817" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2024-03-20T05:18:57.167" LastActivityDate="2024-03-20T05:34:41.687" Title="TPE print fail - filament fails to extrude after normal start" Tags="|filament|fdm|tpu|flexible|tpe|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22811" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22810" CreationDate="2023-12-13T15:55:30.883" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Depending on your extruder geometry, you might have to slow down even more. I can't print TPU at 35 mm/s on my extruder, at least.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem with flexible materials is that they really don't like to be pushed into a narrow hole. Instead, the filament between the extruder gear and the heatbreak will buckle and bend to the side, forming a loop inside your extruder housing. If that happens, there is no more pressure and the extrusion stops. See &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/657/proper-settings-for-printing-rubber-and-rubber-like-materials&quot;&gt;Proper settings for printing rubber and rubber-like materials?&lt;/a&gt; for a very detailed analysis and tips.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you use PrusaSlicer or a derivative, a good option to limit the extruder speed for a specific filament is &lt;a href=&quot;https://help.prusa3d.com/article/max-volumetric-speed_127176&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Max Volumetric Speed&lt;/a&gt;. That way you can limit the speed for all types of extrusion with a single number, instead of many speed options in the print profile. I'm not sure, but I don't think that Cura has a comparable setting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13272" LastActivityDate="2023-12-13T15:55:30.883" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22812" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-12-13T17:47:14.677" Score="3" ViewCount="116" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to use my Ender 3 as a multi-filament-printing printer&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As many users already have asked, printing PLA with an all-metal hot end is not really recommended.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But, if I am attempting to use my stock Ender 3 printer (no hardware and software modifications) as a safe indoor 3D printer that can both print PLA and PETG, without risking any fumes coming out of the PTFE tubes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How may I reliably print PLA with an all-metal heat break, without any further hardware modifications?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any reliable slicer settings (such as print speed, retraction, etc.) that should be systematically tried?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40827" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2023-12-14T05:05:15.310" LastActivityDate="2023-12-27T16:17:52.053" Title="Is there a possibility to reliably print PLA with an Ender 3 that has an all-metal hot end?" Tags="|creality-ender-3|pla|bowden|all-metal-hotend|heat-break|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22814" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21759" CreationDate="2023-12-13T21:18:08.117" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not sure why I wasn't able to find this initially, but here's a &lt;a href=&quot;https://files.fieldofview.com/cura/Replacement_Patterns.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;list of replacement strings&lt;/a&gt; that can be used in the Start/End G-code settings of the machine/printer profile.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my Machine profile settings, I inserted the below text at the top of the Start G-code section:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;; Cura/Material/Profile settings&#xA;;Layer Height: {layer_height}&#xA;;MINZ: {layer_height_0}&#xA;;Print Speed: {speed_print}&#xA;;first_layer_bed_temp: {material_print_temperature_layer_0}&#xA;;Nozzle diameter = {machine_nozzle_size}&#xA;;Filament id = {material_id}&#xA;;Filament type = {material_type}&#xA;;Filament name = {material_name}&#xA;;Filament brand = {material_brand}&#xA;;Filament amount = {filament_amount}&#xA;;Filament weight = {filament_weight}&#xA;;Filament cost = {filament_cost}&#xA;;Jobname = {jobname}&#xA;&#xA;; Ender 3 Custom Start G-code&#xA;; ... Rest of my start G-code was here&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And now, when I generate a new G-code file, it has the below data in the file:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;; Cura/Material/Profile settings&#xA;;Layer Height: 0.2&#xA;;MINZ: 0.2&#xA;;Print Speed: 30.0&#xA;;first_layer_bed_temp: 260.0&#xA;;Nozzle diameter = 0.4&#xA;;Filament id = generic_abs_175 #2&#xA;;Filament type = ABS&#xA;;Filament name = ASA&#xA;;Filament brand = iSANGHU&#xA;;Filament amount = [1.01]&#xA;;Filament weight = [3.013193642578125]&#xA;;Filament cost = [0.05423748556640625]&#xA;;Jobname = TN1-148_SHAFT_ADAPTOR&#xA;&#xA;; Ender 3 Custom Start G-code&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Note: I had to save an ASA material as ABS because apparently, Cura thinks my printer profile isn't compatible with ASA, so it's saved as ABS. but that value is accurate to what's in the configs)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And it works fine in MoonRaker as well&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nweTg.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Screenshot of the left-hand portion of MoonRaker's File List&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nweTg.png&quot; alt=&quot;Screenshot of the left-hand portion of MoonRaker's File List&quot; title=&quot;Screenshot of the left-hand portion of MoonRaker's File List&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9Idqi.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Screenshot of the right-hand portion of MoonRaker's File List&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9Idqi.png&quot; alt=&quot;Screenshot of the right-hand portion of MoonRaker's File List&quot; title=&quot;Screenshot of the right-hand portion of MoonRaker's File List&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Source: &lt;a href=&quot;https://community.ultimaker.com/topic/39519-how-to-access-material-type-eg-pla-petg-etc-from-cura-post-processing-plugin/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;How to access material type (eg PLA, PETG etc) from Cura post-processing plugin?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40723" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2023-12-14T05:03:56.270" LastActivityDate="2023-12-14T05:03:56.270" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22815" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21802" CreationDate="2023-12-13T22:29:39.057" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I suggest reading the existing Marlin documentation that's available regarding &lt;a href=&quot;https://marlinfw.org/docs/setting/stepper_drivers.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;stepper drivers&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;https://marlinfw.org/docs/hardware/tmc_drivers.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;trinamic drivers&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's probably also advisable to familiarize yourself with the modular files &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/blob/bugfix-2.1.x/Marlin/src/module/stepper.h&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;code&gt;src/module/stepper.h&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/blob/bugfix-2.1.x/Marlin/src/module/stepper.cpp&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;code&gt;src/module/stepper.cpp&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/a&gt; files, or from the Voxel8 repository for example the &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/Voxel8/Marlin/blob/master/Marlin/stepper_indirection.h&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;code&gt;stepper_indirection.h&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/a&gt; file, as they handle the stepper motor interface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Understanding the existing code or even modifying an existing driver could help to achieve your objectives.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also depending on your experience and requirements you might find some inspiration in several YouTube videos such as &lt;a href=&quot;https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=5b6qWVo6lcU&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;DIY Stepper Motor Driver From Scratch&lt;/a&gt; or&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=nafoHAhz8Ys&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;EasyDriver A3967 Stepper Motor Driver Tutorial with Arduino Code&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36802" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2023-12-14T04:57:09.833" LastActivityDate="2023-12-14T04:57:09.833" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22816" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21724" CreationDate="2023-12-14T08:12:46.343" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;https://web.archive.org/web/20231214080914/https://colorfabb.com/media/datasheets/tds/colorfabb/TDS_E%20ColorFabb%20allPHA.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;technical datasheet for ColorFabb's &amp;quot;allPHA&amp;quot; filament&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;https://colorfabb.com/media/datasheets/tds/colorfabb/TDS_E%20ColorFabb%20allPHA.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;[original]&lt;/a&gt; says the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Contrary to most 3D printing materials allPHA is best printed on a&#xA;cold plate, so no active heating is required. A heated plate will&#xA;induce crystallization, which will lead to warping of the bottom&#xA;layers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We advise using 100% cooling starting on the second layer. This helps&#xA;set the model by slowing down crystallization of the allPHA matrix.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So apparently, you have to cool it down quickly to freeze it in its amorphous form. Cooling too slowly will give it time to form a crystal lattice, shrinking in the process. This shrinking of the upper layers then exerts a force that pulls the corners of the lower layers upwards, which manifests as warping.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So my guess would be: &lt;strong&gt;Add more cooling.&lt;/strong&gt; As mentioned in the comments, printing slower might help, because it gives the part cooling fan more time to blow on the printed lines, thus cooling them faster.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PS: Additionally, different materials require different bed materials. The fact that PLA sticks to your plate does not mean that other materials will stick just as well. The datasheet linked above suggests &amp;quot;3DLac / Diluted wood glue&amp;quot; for treating the bed, so that might be worth a try. Wood glue is often PVA-based, the same as many glue sticks, so that might be a good idea as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13272" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2023-12-15T04:42:00.800" LastActivityDate="2023-12-15T04:42:00.800" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22817" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21804" CreationDate="2023-12-14T08:36:53.053" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Try following &lt;a href=&quot;https://all3dp.com/2/under-extrusion-3d-printing-all-you-need-to-know/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;a guide on debugging under-extrusion&lt;/a&gt; all the way through.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The most obvious point you did not list in your question are: checking the mechanics of the extruder and cleaning the nozzle:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Making sure the extruder gear theeth are clean and sharp&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ensure proper spring tension is pressing the filament to the extruder gear&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check if the motor has enough force/current to push the filament through your fingers if you press them together&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Calibrate the E-Steps&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check that volumetric E is not enabled in your slicer settings.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Make sure you can manually push filament through the heated nozzle without too much force&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Perform a cold pull or several&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;etc.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13272" LastActivityDate="2023-12-14T08:36:53.053" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22818" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22820" CreationDate="2023-12-14T20:07:22.750" Score="3" ViewCount="150" Body="&lt;p&gt;I need to convert the rotation movement of a motor to a linear movement (it has to be in the same axis of the motor).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I made a 3D model in Tinkercad consisting of two parts:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;the first part will mount on the motor and has a shape like screw inside&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KyB3n.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KyB3n.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FR874.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FR874.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;the second part is a plunger that should move in linear direction when the motor rotate with the first part&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1jGhG.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1jGhG.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZxDLa.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZxDLa.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CUSRY.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CUSRY.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I printed this model but the plunger gets stuck inside the first part and do not move.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So it fails.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want a simple way to convert the rotary move to linear in the same axis of motor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I broke part #1 (&amp;quot;the first part&amp;quot;) from behind to see what happened inside. I found it sticks as part #2 jumps above the screw shape.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZkUvK.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZkUvK.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think this mechanism is hard to be done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I switched to scotch yokes mechanism.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope it works!!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The vertical gear will pull the horizontal gears to move the articulator in a linear movement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zEL29.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zEL29.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40842" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2023-12-15T18:27:31.953" LastActivityDate="2023-12-18T15:24:52.583" Title="Convert rotation movement to a linear movement, in the same axis" Tags="|rotation|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22819" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21802" CreationDate="2023-12-14T22:02:56.003" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is actually difficult to answer this question as the code is written to handle likely over a hundred different types of hardware, and multiple types of stepper hardware.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Starting from where the pins are actually defined up to the code that drives them, here's a quick breakdown.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The header files in &lt;code&gt;src/pins/pins_*.h&lt;/code&gt; define the actual pins that are talking to the hardware. E.g. these files contain lots of &lt;code&gt;#define&lt;/code&gt; preprocessor directive such as this &lt;code&gt;#define&lt;/code&gt; that defines what pin on a certain processor controls the direction of the Z stepper motor;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#define Z_DIR_PIN 10&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The header file &lt;code&gt;indirection.h&lt;/code&gt; defines &amp;quot;higher level&amp;quot; #define's. Building on the above example, this macro is defined in &lt;code&gt;indirection.h&lt;/code&gt; used to actually set the stepper motor direction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#define Z_DIR_WRITE(STATE) WRITE(Z_DIR_PIN,INVERT_DIR(Z, STATE))&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, &lt;code&gt;stepper.cpp&lt;/code&gt; will use the above macros to actually write to the hardware. As noted above the bulk of this code is &lt;code&gt;#if&lt;/code&gt;/&lt;code&gt;#else&lt;/code&gt;/&lt;code&gt;#define&lt;/code&gt; preprocessor directives to support all of the many hardware/processor configurations. &lt;code&gt;Stepper.h&lt;/code&gt; does have some even higher level macros, e.g.,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;      #define Z_APPLY_DIR(FWD,Q) do{ \&#xA;        Z_DIR_WRITE(FWD); Z2_DIR_WRITE(INVERT_DIR(Z2_VS_Z, FWD)); \&#xA;        Z3_DIR_WRITE(INVERT_DIR(Z3_VS_Z, FWD)); Z4_DIR_WRITE(INVERT_DIR(Z4_VS_Z, FWD)); \&#xA;      }while(0)&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suspect that the code is heavily optimized (some written in assembly) ending up with very high-level concepts such as Bezier curve following tied directly with writing to the actual stepper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maybe I have stepped into a big problem with this code. It's difficult for someone who hasn't worked with it a lot to make simple changes. Maybe there is a need for a &amp;quot;simple stepper&amp;quot; driver that does not have a gazillion hardware dependencies that can be used for people like myself who just wish to do a quick experiment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40812" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2023-12-18T18:06:59.653" LastActivityDate="2023-12-18T18:06:59.653" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22820" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22818" CreationDate="2023-12-15T19:22:18.463" Score="3" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Simple Machines&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We got a circular motion, and need a linear one. The most simple set up for this is known from steam engines:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6vWzy.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6vWzy.png&quot; alt=&quot;A crank driving a lever converting circular motion into linear motion&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The downside is, that this is a 90° turn from the motor. But to turn a circular motion by 90° is easy: Gears.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are many options of gear types that would work to drive the transmission disk in a right angle from the motor:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Helical Gears engage in a 90° to one another. McMaster Carr describes them as &amp;quot;For smooth, quiet operation at high speeds under heavy loads, helical gears have curved teeth that engage gradually and stay in contact longer than straight teeth. Because the curved teeth create thrust loads (loads that are parallel to the shaft), helical gear systems often require thrust bearings to prevent wear from misalignment.&amp;quot;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Miter Gears have their teeth mounted on a cone. There are 2 types (normal and spiraled), and McMaster Carr describes them as &amp;quot;Miter gears have straight teeth and a conical profile for transmitting motion at a right angle without changing shaft speed or torque. They're more efficient than spiral miter gears, which means they require less power to do the same work; however, they are noisier when run at high speeds and under heavy loads.&amp;quot;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Very similar are Beveled Gears, but the tooth geometry is simpler. McMaster Carr says: &amp;quot;Similar to miter gears, bevel gears have straight teeth and a conical profile for transmitting motion at a right angle. Unlike miter gears, one of the gears (sometimes called a pinion) is smaller than the other.&amp;quot;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The outside of the disk is connected to a worm gear. The linear motion will be slow but VERY powerful, and the machine can't drive the motor. McMaster Carr says: &amp;quot;Worm gears use screw threads to reduce shaft speed by ratios of 18:1 and greater while transmitting motion at a right angle. Unlike bevel gears, worm gears operate in one direction only; they transmit motion from worm to gear and cannot be reversed.&amp;quot;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Redesigning the original part: the Angled plane in motion&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your basic idea &lt;strong&gt;works&lt;/strong&gt; but your design had two large problems:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The alignment feature for the pushrod is way underdesigned&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The Pushrod is missing a secondary alignment feature&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That is easy to solve, and reduced to the working areas, this is what might appear in your construction, approximating the actually very complex surface to an angled face:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Hxwio.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Hxwio.png&quot; alt=&quot;approximated Redesigned original design of OP&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rotating angled plane is good to act. To prevent rotation of the green pushrod, I made the retainment lugs &lt;strong&gt;much&lt;/strong&gt; beefier and part of the whole shaft, not an addition onto the shaft. That made it a large rectangle, which prevents any rotation in the grey housing part.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do note that the rendition as a simple ramped cylinder is just a very rough approximation of the actual body you need, which would be the rotational cut of a rotating and sliding cylinder. The required cam track can be quite tricky to design in CAD.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The shaft &lt;strong&gt;also&lt;/strong&gt; protrudes through the bottom angled surface in the most forward position, which prevents the shaft from misaligning at that critical point and not hitting the bore it has to get back into. This protrusion can be much shorter than shown, but it is very much aiding in reliability and preventing the misalignment you saw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As an additional factor, the turning disk might need to be made from two halves that are connected, so it can be put around the shaft and not contain an insert-slot that would result in misalignment. You might need interlocking pegs between the parts of the rotating barrel to force alignment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fOqHu.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fOqHu.png&quot; alt=&quot;The two plane parts turned into a rotating Barrel set together by two parts.&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, there's one problem with the design in itself: the setup has very large contact areas and will induce lots of friction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2023-12-18T10:46:01.610" LastActivityDate="2023-12-18T10:46:01.610" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22821" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21674" CreationDate="2023-12-15T20:21:32.263" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Similar to the answer above, but with a bit of a twist, it may be simpler to print both parts out as molds, and then to cast the parts that you want in two-part casting resin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are various tutorials on the internet that go into detail on how to do this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example: &lt;a href=&quot;https://all3dp.com/2/3d-printed-molds-all-you-need-to-know-to-diy/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;3D Printed Molds Tutorial: How to DIY Your Own&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cura slicer even has a function for this. &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.3dprintbeast.com/cura-mold-mode/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Mold mode&lt;/a&gt; though I've never used it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Use a Boolean function to create a cavity inside the tooth using the nerve as a cutter, and then export it. Then use Cura's mold function to create a mold of the tooth with the cavity inside it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Create a resin tooth using clear resin, and then once that is set mix up some red resin and pour it into the cavity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's still using 3D printing, just not as you originally thought. IT may be easiest to do the tooth mold in two parts and then join them together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="29097" LastEditorUserId="29097" LastEditDate="2023-12-16T07:56:55.097" LastActivityDate="2023-12-16T07:56:55.097" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22822" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22818" CreationDate="2023-12-16T02:57:05.413" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The following might seem obvious, but it shouldn't be overlooked either.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unless you have one of those Wire EDM cutting machines, with very precise tolerances&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;, that can seamlessly cut a shape out of blocks of metal that then, seemingly, &lt;em&gt;glide&lt;/em&gt; out of the surrounding block, with little to no &lt;em&gt;stiction&lt;/em&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;, then your printed surfaces of the screw will have imperfections that may cause the binding. The first step would be to shave, sand and smooth the surfaces. Maybe even treat with another chemical, such as acetone (depending upon your printing material) to smooth the surfaces even further.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, in addition to that, some lubricant may be in order. Every gear box or mechanism contains a little oil or grease.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, your original design &lt;em&gt;may&lt;/em&gt; still work, with a little help from smoothing and lubricating any mating surfaces. As Trish states, your design has a lot of surface friction, so every bit of polishing of the surfaces will help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; Approaching &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;$\frac{5}{1000}$&lt;/span&gt; (i.e. five thousandths) of a millimetre&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; Such as the objects shown at the start of this video: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f9zyenX2PWk&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;How these impossibly thin cuts are made&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4762" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2023-12-18T15:24:52.583" LastActivityDate="2023-12-18T15:24:52.583" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22825" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21805" CreationDate="2023-12-18T20:14:38.050" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is an OctoPrint plugin that attempts to achieve exactly that. The plugin is called &lt;a href=&quot;https://plugins.octoprint.org/plugins/powerfailure/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;OctoPrint-PowerFailure&lt;/a&gt; and it's page describes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;OctoPrint-PowerFailure attempts to recover a print after a power failure or printer disconnect. It is intended as a last resort and does not replace the use of proper power backup and appropriate communication setups. Recovered parts are certain to show small defects, but this may be acceptable in some cases.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36802" LastActivityDate="2023-12-18T20:14:38.050" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22826" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21564" CreationDate="2023-12-18T20:22:11.833" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In addition to Oscar's answer, there is an OctoPrint plugin that attempts to achieve exactly that. The plugin uses the following and-condition to determine the moment to stop bed heating:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&amp;quot;printing finished for at least 90% &lt;strong&gt;and&lt;/strong&gt; remaining print time is below 5 minutes&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The plugin is called &lt;a href=&quot;https://plugins.octoprint.org/plugins/bedcooldown/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;OctoPrint-BedCooldown&lt;/a&gt;. Its page describes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Turns off the bed heater toward the end of a print&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For filaments such as PLA, many printers have more than enough stored thermal mass in the bed to keep bed adhesion throughout the print. Therefore, you may want to turn off the bed heater automatically before the end of a print, saving cooldown time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bed heater will be turned off during a print, when both conditions are met:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The print time left is below the configured threshold (default 300 seconds / 5 minutes)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The print completion percentage is above the configured threshold (default 90%)&#xA;This should cover both long and short prints; you wouldn’t want the bed to turn off 90% into a 20 hour print, or 5 minutes before the end of a 10 minute total print.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Be sure to monitor your print, as turning off the bed heater could cause the print to come loose prior to completion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36802" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2023-12-19T04:16:29.647" LastActivityDate="2023-12-19T04:16:29.647" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22827" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22892" CreationDate="2023-12-18T20:41:08.390" Score="3" ViewCount="98" Body="&lt;p&gt;Looking at a bare Creality Ender 3 V2, I realised that there are three end-stop switches, one for each axis, X, Y, and Z. But this only helps to determine the start (0) position of each axis. Wouldn't doubling the end stops to six instead, two for each axis, one on each side, help to determine not only the start but also the end position? (Besides, to my understanding, the switches are called 'end stops' but are used as 'start stops' in this case.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If each axis has an 'end stop' at the start &lt;strong&gt;and&lt;/strong&gt; at the end, it can dynamically determine how many steps can be taken. Isn't this more elegant and adaptable than using fixed sizes? Also, since end-stop switches are simple and cheap, why don't all printers use them? I think it could also help in &lt;strong&gt;precision calibration&lt;/strong&gt; and still stay operational when hardware tweaks are made without firmware changes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Moverover, wouldn't it prevent wrongly configured firmware (by means of a 'hard stop' where stepper motor are trying to move something moving beyond the physical possible axis potentially resulting in catastrophic damage?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36802" LastEditorUserId="36802" LastEditDate="2024-01-01T15:03:46.923" LastActivityDate="2024-01-03T19:26:17.000" Title="How could dual end-stop switches on each axis improve the functionality and precision of 3D printers like the Creality Ender 3 V2?" Tags="|firmware|calibration|endstop|hardware|sensors|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22828" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-12-18T22:12:02.900" Score="0" ViewCount="41" Body="&lt;p&gt;All filament is abrasive to some extent. Speciality filaments such as carbon fibre filament even more so. How is abbrasivness defined for filament and is there a metric that defines the abrasiveness of filament?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If available, are there any filament producers that report the 'abrasiveness' of their filament?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36802" LastEditorUserId="36802" LastEditDate="2023-12-23T23:55:20.887" LastActivityDate="2023-12-27T13:24:08.273" Title="Is there a metric that defines the abrasiveness of filament?" Tags="|filament|terminology|abrasiveness|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22829" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-12-19T14:02:25.610" Score="2" ViewCount="56" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most printers are build the following (please excuse if I do not use the correct terms)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A heating unit mounted below an aluminum build plate and then some surface on top that can be printed on like glas or some fancy material.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why is the heating unit not sandwiched above the aluminum bed and the the surface that can be printed on?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;wouldn't it be more efficient having the heating unit closer to the printed part and more &amp;quot;insulation&amp;quot; on the bottom?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26397" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2023-12-19T23:06:21.260" LastActivityDate="2023-12-19T23:06:21.260" Title="Why is the heating unit not on top?" Tags="|heated-bed|printer-building|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22831" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22829" CreationDate="2023-12-19T22:54:47.583" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can think of the following reasons why heating units in 3D printers are typically below the build plate such as:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Uniform Heat Distribution: An aluminum build plate evenly distributes heat across the printing surface.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Safety and Insulation: This setup provides insulation, reducing the risk of burns and maintaining a stable temperature environment.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The stable temperature also would allow for a more gradual cooling of printed layers, potentially minimizing warping issues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Placing the heating unit on top might perhaps improve heat transfer efficiency but would likely lead to overheating, uneven temperature control, safety issues, or print quality issues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36802" LastActivityDate="2023-12-19T22:54:47.583" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22832" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22834" CreationDate="2023-12-20T08:46:34.653" Score="6" ViewCount="698" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've 3D printed a box with a hole in it, the hole looks like a horse. My idea was that I then 3D print that horse in a different color and put it into the hole. The problem was that the horse didn't fit the hole, as they were the same size. I then made the horse smaller, but that made a new problem. Now the feet of the horse don't align with the hole. How can I scale the horse easily, like how can I just make everything thinner?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/p3ZXs.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Vector graphic of a stylized horse&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/p3ZXs.png&quot; alt=&quot;Vector graphic of a stylized horse&quot; title=&quot;Vector graphic of a stylized horse&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The image above is how the horse looks, and what I want is to make all sides go in 3 mm, I'm not sure how to do it without the legs moving.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40903" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2023-12-21T15:02:52.043" LastActivityDate="2024-02-28T02:05:53.573" Title="How to fit a model into a hole with the same shape?" Tags="|scaling|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22833" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21042" CreationDate="2023-12-20T11:08:11.137" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can use the openSCAD &lt;code&gt;projection()&lt;/code&gt; function.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With &lt;code&gt;cut=true&lt;/code&gt;, this slices your model at the Z=0 plane.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikibooks.org/wiki/OpenSCAD_User_Manual/Using_the_2D_Subsystem#3D_to_2D_Projection&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;3D to 2D Projection documentation&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JN7hs.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JN7hs.png&quot; alt=&quot;model to take cut from&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;projection(cut = true) example002();&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RXDjk.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RXDjk.png&quot; alt=&quot;projected cut&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9098" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2023-12-20T15:13:19.440" LastActivityDate="2023-12-20T15:13:19.440" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22834" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22832" CreationDate="2023-12-20T12:15:16.937" Score="8" Body="&lt;h2&gt;What you need&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You don't need a scaled horse, you need an &lt;strong&gt;offset&lt;/strong&gt; off the outline.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Designing the offset&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This can require to create a whole new model, with slightly altered ratios between items. Look at this example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kbzdw.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kbzdw.png&quot; alt=&quot;A complex contour and its inner offset in dashed line&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you see, some sections - especially the diagonals from bottom left to upper right - have the identical length to the line they are offset from, others are longer and others shorter. if you have the design-sketches in a STEP file, it's as easy as defining an offset and re-extruding the shifted item.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Altering the model&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you only go the STL, some programs do offer an offset-function to alter the model. In the case of blender, you could choose all vertical walls and &lt;em&gt;extrude&lt;/em&gt; negatively by a little.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Slicing with offset&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/22837/8884&quot;&gt;jpa&lt;/a&gt; correctly noted, you can force slicing with an offset in many slicers. Often this function is called XY compensation, Horizontal expansion, or similar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2023-12-20T19:47:13.157" LastActivityDate="2023-12-20T19:47:13.157" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22835" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22832" CreationDate="2023-12-20T13:45:05.297" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A less elegant but easier to implement alternative to what Trish suggests (for example, doing 'offset' in FreeCAD is a chore and a half), is to use draft angles / chamfers. Make the hole and the horse walls 45 degrees (matching the angles so both the hole bottom and the horse bottom is smaller than the outline). It will always fit for sure but likely stick above the surface of the hole, which may be desirable, and if not desirable, place the horse model in the slicer bigger side down, then sink it into the build plate (uncheck 'drop model' then modify the Z coordinate of its position in the Translate mode) by as much as it sticks outside the hole, and the part that sticks above the box surface simply won't be printed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2206" LastActivityDate="2023-12-20T13:45:05.297" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22836" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22827" CreationDate="2023-12-20T14:04:34.627" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The rule of thumb when engineering things is add sensors for things that can change unexpectedly. If the changes can only occur through the user dismantling and rebuilding the device, sensors that detect that sort of changes are usually a waste of money.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your print head position can change unexpectedly. Stepper skipping steps, something seizing up, someone moving the bed or print head while the printer is idle. Your bed and gantry dimensions won't change without you replacing the bed and the gantry, and possibly the frame. Never mind the printer won't know how far apart the two switches are, this still needs to be a config entry and changed with rebuilding the bed. There is virtually no precision benefit to having them on two ends. They are used in more heavyweight machinery like big CNC routers, to protect the machine from damaging itself by going past the unprotected end due to a software glitch. In 3D printers if that happens your print is already dead, and your printer will warble loudly but nothing will break (any worse than it already is).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other hand, dual switches on one end for dual drive devices are a pretty good idea. Say, the printer with two Z-axis motors and two Z screws - if the motors somehow get out of sync, the gantry will tilt, the nozzle will dig into the bed on one side, fly over the bed on the other, generally problems abound. Fixing this manually is quite a chore. Meanwhile an end switch for each side of the gantry, distance between their activation corresponding to how much out of level it is, can allow the printer to re-level its gantry all on its own. Similar problems occur for CoreXY bed motors, making the bed flat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In short, start/stop switch won't improve distance precision, but a pair of start switches for one axis can improve the angle precision - how perpendicular the axis are.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2206" LastActivityDate="2023-12-20T14:04:34.627" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22837" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22832" CreationDate="2023-12-20T17:34:18.043" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Many slicers can do this directly:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;PrusaSlicer&lt;/strong&gt;: Print Settings -&amp;gt; Advanced -&amp;gt; XY Size Compensation&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Cura&lt;/strong&gt;: Print Settings -&amp;gt; Horizontal Expansion&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Setting a negative value will move each wall inwards along its normal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7uHDW.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7uHDW.png&quot; alt=&quot;Example in PrusaSlicer&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16776" LastActivityDate="2023-12-20T17:34:18.043" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22838" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-12-20T20:12:11.083" Score="1" ViewCount="48" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Creality CP-01 that has one of the feeders loose so I had to take down the entire extruder to fix it. After fixing it making sure it feeds properly and leveling the bed, it is producing what seems to be overflowing prints and I have no idea what to do to fix it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am working with the same nozzle I had used before and had to level the bed multiple times. No change in cura settings only the hardware.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Pftk0.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Pftk0.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/V7PXk.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/V7PXk.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40911" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2023-12-21T04:56:45.173" LastActivityDate="2023-12-21T04:56:45.173" Title="What causes these print issues after changes on my Creality CP-01 extruder?" Tags="|underextrusion|creality|overextrusion|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22839" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22832" CreationDate="2023-12-21T21:10:46.550" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;This might be an absurd suggestion, but have you tried freezing the horse? Just throw it in a freezer for an hour or two and then quickly try to fit it into the box.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's a pretty typical way of getting an interference fit: Cool one part to allow it to shrink then insert it and let it expand into place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Though it might still be too tight since both parts are literally the same size and have not been designed with any tolerance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40917" LastActivityDate="2023-12-21T21:10:46.550" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22840" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-12-22T00:03:19.990" Score="-1" ViewCount="270" Body="&lt;p&gt;My friend has an Ender 3 Max Neo that they were just able to reassemble after moving. Looking it over there didn’t seem to be any assembly errors, but the auto-home was definitely causing a few issues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The Printer would hit the end stops for X and Y, auto-home to X:157 and Y:170 to test the Z (where the CR Touch would tap with about 2 mm between the bed and the extruder), then raise the extruder to 10 mm (technically 12).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The printer would then stay in that position (X:157 Y:170 Z:10) even though the owner has never had that as the home location. Starting a print right here then causes the printer to try to go off the right side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The printer also can’t seem to auto-home with any filament in the run-out detection. Starting a print, or telling the printer to auto-home, causes the printer to pull the filament out of the extruder and feeder line until it's past the gears. If I don’t pull it out of the run-out detection then it just says “Homing failed” and can’t be exited unless the entire thing is turned off and then turned back on. At first, I thought this was because of a loose length of filament that had been in the feeder line left over from before. But removing that didn’t stop the issue from occurring with a freshly inserted strand from the spool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My next plan of action is to re-install the firmware and double-check all the wirings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40920" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2023-12-24T09:18:53.860" LastActivityDate="2023-12-24T09:18:53.860" Title="Homing fails with filament in run-out sensor" Tags="|creality-ender-3|homing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22841" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11809" CreationDate="2023-12-22T14:21:34.647" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Based on your picture from Octoprint I can assume that you may have the wrong heater.&#xA;Why? Because heating hotend to 215 takes quite a lot of time (3 minutes) in your case. If you have an appropriate heater it should take around 1 minute&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You need to check the resistance of the heater and then calculate the power based on voltage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Current = Voltage / measured resistance&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Power = Current * voltage&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a good working hotend, you need to have at least a &lt;strong&gt;35 W to 40 W&lt;/strong&gt; heater.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some shops sell 40 W heaters but these heaters are for 24 V systems, so in your case, if you have 12 V system it may be the case why the temperature drops because the heater will work like it has 10 W of power&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But even if you swap the heater, you need to be sure that your power supply/board will be able to deliver appropriate current without damaging itself - MOSFET/SSR (solid state relay) could be helpful sometimes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As someone mentioned in a different response it's good to have cooling protection like silicone socks or any other protection material.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40927" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2023-12-22T14:45:27.073" LastActivityDate="2023-12-22T14:45:27.073" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22843" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22840" CreationDate="2023-12-23T16:19:53.293" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Homing does work as expected, it hits the X and Y end stops, then it moves to the center of the bed (corrected for probe position) and homes Z (this is caused by firmware option &lt;code&gt;#define Z_SAFE_HOMING&lt;/code&gt;). As the X and Y endstops are hit the printer knows the position and the location. If your printer now prints in the wrong area, the slicing is probably incorrect, the center of the bed (corrected for probe offset) is never the starting point relative to where the print starts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The whole purpose of the filament detection sensor is to detect a run out of filament, if run out, the printer stops. So if no filament is detected, it is imaginable that also homing fails. Considering that the homing fails if filament is present in the sensor and not when there is no filament could hint that the filament sensor is incorrectly wired. I would skip the sensor and never use it, it is a pretty useless feature, in the past 10 years and kilometers of filament (1.75 mm and 2.85 mm) I have seldomly encountered broken filament, actually only with the thicker filament and usage of old brittle PLA. Just make sure you have enough filament to finish the print. If your spool has few windings, count the windings and calculate how much is left or unwind the spool and measure the length and compare that to the length the print requires (reported by the slicer). You never run out of filament if you know you have enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2023-12-24T09:16:34.230" LastActivityDate="2023-12-24T09:16:34.230" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22845" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22855" CreationDate="2023-12-24T13:14:16.807" Score="4" ViewCount="94" Body="&lt;p&gt;Recently both belts on my Prusa MK3S+ became loose. Quite suddenly, too. One print was okay, the next nozzle wobbled in the Y and bed in the X causing layer shifting. More precisely, each movement was shifted pretty randomly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I checked belt tension and there was basically none. It was good a month ago, and it must've been good enough just one print before. Of course I will tension them again, but I would be glad to know what are the possible causes of belts losing tension suddenly, to check them during the maintenance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FTGos.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Shot of the layers&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FTGos.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Shot of the layers&quot; title=&quot;Shot of the layers&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20803" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2023-12-30T22:09:21.657" LastActivityDate="2023-12-30T22:09:21.657" Title="What could have caused both belts becoming loose?" Tags="|prusa-i3|repair|belt|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22846" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22868" CreationDate="2023-12-25T06:13:05.207" Score="-1" ViewCount="60" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm working on printing the &lt;a href=&quot;https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/various/3d-printable-jet-engine-minimal-printing-supports&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;3D Printable Jet Engine w/ Minimal Printing Supports&lt;/a&gt; and I'm having a surprising amount of difficulty printing the fan. The fan seems to print fine, right up until the last 20 or so layers, where it starts to gap and blob-like I've never seen before.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have quite a few photos &lt;a href=&quot;https://imgur.com/a/9Cgmu9F&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;available to view&lt;/a&gt;, but I'm including a few below:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2xGC2.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Photo of jet engine fan model with gaps and blobs&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2xGC2.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Photo of jet engine fan model with gaps and blobs&quot; title=&quot;Photo of jet engine fan model with gaps and blobs&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/v5SuC.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Upclose photo of the same fan model&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/v5SuC.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Upclose photo of the same fan model&quot; title=&quot;Upclose photo of the same fan model&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Settings/components:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ender 3 S1 Pro (running Klipper)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Filaments tried: &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B0B5Z221QB&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;SUNLU 3D Printer Silk PLA Filament 1.75 mm&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B0C69HXGWW&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;AMOLEN Shiny Silk Black PLA Filament 1.75 mm&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Nozzle size: .4 mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Layer heights: 0.16 mm, 0.2 mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Speeds: 100 mm/s, 75 mm/s&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Temperature: 205 °C, 210 °C, 215 °C&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Retraction: Yes, tuned with with retraction towers&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Slicer: Cura&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I have tried:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Initially, I thought that maybe it was because I had the infill set to ~40 %, and a lot of top layers, so maybe the print geometry and the infill/top layers combo caused it, but they showed up when I put the infill to 100 %, as well as if I just put the walls to 20 (thus making it 100 %).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I've tried printing with .20 mm and .16 mm layer height, as well as .16 mm + adaptive layers (which made a lot of it .12 mm)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tried switching to a different filament, and encountered the same results.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Printed some tuning towers to verify that the temperature and retraction are set up okay.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tried lowering the speed down to 75 mm/s (usually around 100 mm/s)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it was something like a clogged nozzle, then I would assume that that same pattern would be seen everywhere on the print. That goes for the temperature and retraction as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40723" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2024-02-22T16:55:16.947" LastActivityDate="2024-02-22T16:55:16.947" Title="Encountering some weird layer gaps on the last few lines of a particular print" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|slicing|filament-quality|layer-shifting|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22847" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21226" CreationDate="2023-12-25T11:44:23.650" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The maximum bed temperature for PEI is determined more by the way the PEI is adhered to or deposited onto the metal plate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For PEI sheets attached with the 3M adhesive, I found that at higher (ABS at 105 °C, ASA at 100 °C) temperatures, the PEI eventually starts to detach and form bubbles, which determine the highest temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The PEI powder coating has the potential to deal with higher temperatures better because the fusing and baking process used for powder coating is normally a better bond.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keep in mind with higher bed temperatures, you have to keep the enclosure temperature high as well to avoid a steep temperature gradient from the bed to ambient internal temperatures. Temperature gradients result in differential contraction ratios which result in warping. This is why much higher bed temperatures are probably not needed unless you are printing very high-temperature filaments e.g., PEEK.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7470" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2023-12-25T15:22:25.580" LastActivityDate="2023-12-25T15:22:25.580" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22848" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22966" CreationDate="2023-12-25T15:57:41.857" Score="1" ViewCount="64" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm thinking about implementing some kind of nozzle wear sensor. My question is simple: Do such sensors or automatic approaches already exist? Although I expect not and I know nozzles are cheap, it's just a fun educational challenge, not financially viable but that's not the purpose anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I thought about using a simple camera with a proper lens and computer vision to do either one or more of the following things:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Have the extruder retract, perhaps brush the nozzle, then have a zoomed camera and light pointing up from under the nozzle, in an attempt (with some reference image next to it) to determine nozzle diameter size.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Have a camera from the side of a nozzle, brushing it clean, extruding a few cm of filament, and analyzing how straight the filament flows down when extruded&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Take two precision measurements from under the nozzle somehow, one of the heat block and one of the nozzle-end, and determine the difference, although I have no way to account for other variables such as the nozzle not being screwed in properly, maybe non-standardized nozzle-height et cetera.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does something like this or another approach to achieve the same already exist? If not, is this a proper approach or are there other things to consider?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36802" LastEditorUserId="36802" LastEditDate="2024-01-19T10:28:40.310" LastActivityDate="2024-01-20T15:10:15.483" Title="What is a good approach to develop a 'nozzle wear sensor'?" Tags="|nozzle|printer-building|sensors|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22849" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-12-25T17:09:51.263" Score="0" ViewCount="31" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've seen and read many videos and articles about a multicamera setup in OctoPi. Most of them including &lt;a href=&quot;https://community.octoprint.org/t/setting-up-multiple-webcams-in-octopi-the-right-way/32669&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Setting up multiple webcams in OctoPi the right way&lt;/a&gt; describe:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, watch your CPU usage as streaming can be quite resource-intensive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other guides note a maximum amount of cameras for the Pi. However, in my case, I want to simply manually switch to some cameras for another view and maybe only have one camera used for time lapses, which is simple snapshotting, not streaming.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was wondering why there is a camera limit at all because cameras can simply be disabled when not used, so at most there would be one active at the time. Is there currently such implementation available compatible with OctoPrint and for example OctoApp? Because switching cameras off and on only when used could save a lot of resources which is much more resource efficient, especially in a resource-limited environment like a Raspberry Pi (OctiPi).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36802" LastEditorUserId="36802" LastEditDate="2024-01-19T10:08:26.617" LastActivityDate="2024-01-19T10:08:26.617" Title="Is there a lightweight OctoPi multi-camera implementation?" Tags="|octoprint|octopi|camera|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22850" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22873" CreationDate="2023-12-25T21:15:09.453" Score="1" ViewCount="318" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Polytetrafluoroethylene&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE)&lt;/a&gt; is one of the best-known and widely applied PFAS commonly described as persistent organic pollutants or &amp;quot;forever chemicals&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I want to avoid PFAS due to environmental concerns, is there an alternative to:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;PTFE Bowden tube used?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;PTFE coated nozzles?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;PTFE spray used for rod maintenance?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36802" LastEditorUserId="36802" LastEditDate="2023-12-29T00:33:58.010" LastActivityDate="2023-12-30T08:19:53.440" Title="Is it possible to 3D print without PFAS/PTFE?" Tags="|maintenance|ptfe-tube|ptfe|pfas|sustainability|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22851" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-12-26T09:49:32.523" Score="0" ViewCount="89" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm considering to use the &lt;a href=&quot;https://coral.ai/products/accelerator/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Coral.AI USB accelerator&lt;/a&gt; to add an Edge TPU coprocessor to my Raspberry Pi running OctoPi, enabling high-speed machine learning inferencing using a USB port. It's power performance is sufficient enough:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;4 trillion operations (tera-operations) per second (TOPS), using 0.5 watts for each TOPS (2 TOPS per watt)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not happy with Obico and its cloud connections, and I just simply want a model to run locally on the Pi instead. For the purpose of detecting failing or failed prints, spaghetti or other defects. As well as checking if the bed is empty before starting prints. Is there a existing pretrained TensorFlow Lite model to achieve 'spaghetti detector'-like computer vision, locally on a TPU?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36802" LastEditorUserId="36802" LastEditDate="2024-01-21T17:45:45.120" LastActivityDate="2024-01-21T17:45:45.120" Title="Is there a open-source pretrained TensorFlow Lite model for failed print and spaghetti detection?" Tags="|octopi|sensors|machine-learning|computer-vision|artificial-intelligence|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22852" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-12-26T10:55:41.300" Score="0" ViewCount="52" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there a way to 'read' the LCD screen from a 3D printer as is, using a Raspberry Pi?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd like to connect the printers LCD screen to my Raspberry Pi to be able to view the screen as is, in OctoPi, in an identical way as looking at the physical LCD. This could serve as some kind of viewing console and can be helpful to determine remotely what the printer status is, for example when it's in a Shutdown mode, disconnected or unresponsive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Optionally being able to control it as on the screen would be great but I don't think that's even remotely easy to achieve. Are there any projects that attempt to achieve this for only viewing or viewing and controlling?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36802" LastEditorUserId="36802" LastEditDate="2024-01-17T10:23:39.927" LastActivityDate="2024-01-17T10:23:39.927" Title="Is there a way to read the printer LCD screen into OctoPi?" Tags="|octoprint|raspberry-pi|lcd-screen|octopi|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22853" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-12-26T12:04:46.457" Score="0" ViewCount="193" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some materials need a heated chamber, which in itself is an enclosure already. However materials such as rPLA, PLA, PHA don't necessarily need a enclosure, or even a heated bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could printers that only print with such materials still benefit from print enclosures in terms of print quality?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, are there other reasons to put printers that use only such materials inside enclosures?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36802" LastActivityDate="2023-12-26T15:24:47.787" Title="Does every 3D printer need an enclosure?" Tags="|print-quality|printer-building|enclosure|chamber|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22854" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22853" CreationDate="2023-12-26T12:41:49.963" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is one of those &amp;quot;yes, if&amp;quot;, or &amp;quot;no, but&amp;quot; situations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The short answer is that if you have a printer that is only being used for a material such as PLA then the average user will see no advantages from having an enclosure as they print perfectly well at ordinary room temperature, and slight variations in temperature have minimal effect because they're stable and don't warp or shrink very much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can probably stop reading here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even for printer businesses, most PLA-based print farms use basic open-frame bed slinger-type printers as there are no benefits to enclosing them, so it's not worth the additional cost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your printer is in your bedroom, the only advantage that an enclosure would provide you with PLA is that it would be a little quieter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The exception to this is if your printer is in an area that has high temperature variations, or high levels of humidity. For example, my 3D printer is in a room with two pottery kilns and a wood steamer. Or it being in an outbuilding where it gets down to double digits below freezing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some materials don't require enclosures for quality reasons, but having one with proper venting is a good idea due to the fumes that they give off. However, this isn't an issue for most people as these materials are less common.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="29097" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2023-12-26T15:24:47.787" LastActivityDate="2023-12-26T15:24:47.787" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22855" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22845" CreationDate="2023-12-26T22:19:21.630" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I figured it out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Long hours of printing ASA parts for my upcoming Voron Trident, in an enclosure, made printer parts softer and belts skipped on the teeth. I needed to glue and shim belt ends in place. Next time I'll need to replace these parts, and belts. Hopefully I'll have another printer by then.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20803" LastActivityDate="2023-12-26T22:19:21.630" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22857" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22850" CreationDate="2023-12-27T12:08:12.947" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It depends on your printer really. If you have a direct drive printer with all metal hotend, then you can feed filament directly into the carriage without any guiding tubes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, the Prusa i3 models (MK3, MK3.9, MK4) don't require any tubes, as shown in Prusa's own promotional photos:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit&lt;/strong&gt;: It seems this is misleading marketing, as there is apparently ~5cm of PTFE internal to the carriage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IjCW9.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IjCW9.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Prusa i3 MK3 printer with a spool of filament above it, the filament fed directly into the top of the X carriage&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for replacing a Bowden tube with something other than PTFE... I don't know any of concrete examples of a proven solution, but really any tube in which you can easily slide your filaments (i.e. low friction) will do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are printing PLA and PETG I would expect you can get away with using Polyurethane (&amp;quot;TPU&amp;quot;), but might need to lower your speeds to overcome the friction. I've not tried any, but I can see that if you are in the US (I'm not) you can get a variety of soft (i.e. flexible) tubing from &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.mcmaster.com/products/flexible-tubing/?s=tubing&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;McMaster-Carr&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The inner diameter may differ slightly from the usual PTFE tubes the printers come with, in which case you may need to &lt;a href=&quot;https://teachingtechyt.github.io/calibration.html#retraction&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;tune retractions&lt;/a&gt; (larger inner diameter -&amp;gt; more retraction needed).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have an all metal hotend, then the Bowden tube itself won't be subject to high temperatures, so the important characteristics will be its inner diameter, whether it can flex the way you need for your particular printer, and if filament can be pushed through it with relatively little resistance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are feeling adventurous, you could even try printing your own tube from TPU and see if the idea can work &lt;em&gt;at all&lt;/em&gt;. I'd use some of the stiffer filament, perhaps with a &lt;a href=&quot;https://fillamentum.com/collections/flexfill-tpu-flexible-filament/flexfill-tpu-98a/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;shore hardness of 98A&lt;/a&gt; which when printed solid is about as tough as shopping trolly wheels. If you print it thin it bends quite easily.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30913" LastEditorUserId="30913" LastEditDate="2023-12-30T08:19:53.440" LastActivityDate="2023-12-30T08:19:53.440" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22858" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21777" CreationDate="2023-12-27T12:28:18.190" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Despite how featureless the STL mesh looks when imported, all the data is there and you can split it to parts using the right click menu. I feel silly for now having spotted this before .&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/r60vY.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/r60vY.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;PrusaSlicer 2.7.1 showing a featureless cube with a right click menu where &amp;quot;Split &amp;gt; To Parts&amp;quot; has been selected&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The result is exactly as I had hoped:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OJKpW.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OJKpW.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;PrusaSlicer 2.7.1 sliced view showing a two colour print and an object with two parts in the object list&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My take away is that PrusaSlicer &lt;em&gt;does not&lt;/em&gt; always prompt you to split your important mesh into multiple parts; so its always worth attempting to split to parts using the menu after import.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30913" LastActivityDate="2023-12-27T12:28:18.190" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22859" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22828" CreationDate="2023-12-27T13:24:08.273" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Abrasiveness &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.britannica.com/technology/abrasive#ref76663&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;depends on both the hardness and the roughness of a material&lt;/a&gt;. The harder material will grind/polish the softer one. But if both surfaces were perfectly smooth not much would happen, so roughness is important.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example sandpaper is rated and sold based on its &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sandpaper#Grit_sizes&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;grit&lt;/a&gt; which refers to the size of the particles (i.e. roughness).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The encyclopedia Britannica has an excellent article on this, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.britannica.com/technology/abrasive#ref76663&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Abrasive | Types, Grades, Uses &amp;amp; Applications&lt;/a&gt;. The most relevant part being:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of the most important properties necessary in an abrasive material is hardness. Simply put, the abrasive must be harder than the material it is to grind, polish, or remove. Hardness of the various abrasive materials can be measured on a number of scales, including the Mohs hardness test, the Knoop hardness test, and the Vickers hardness test.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[...]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Toughness or body strength characteristics are also significant to abrasive function. Ideally, a single abrasive particle resharpens itself by the breakdown of its dull cutting or working edge, which exposes another cutting edge within the same particle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some filament manufacturer's do publish data sheets PDFs on their websites, but except for flexible filaments like TPU and TPE I've not seen hardness included, presumably because the hardness of, say, PETG filament should be the same as the hardness of &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.matweb.com/search/datasheet_print.aspx?matguid=4de1c85bb946406a86c52b688e3810d0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;PETG copolyester&lt;/a&gt; that can be looked up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cheaper filaments tend to have some additives/filler mixed in to make them easier to print or give them desirable properties (like &amp;quot;silk&amp;quot; PLA). These additives are usually not disclosed (they're trade secrets I suppose), so the best we can do is make some educated guesses. &amp;quot;High flow&amp;quot; materials are likely softer than their regular counter parts. Glass-filled filaments hardness will be dominated by the glass. Likewise for carbon-filled.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for brands which provide data sheets, &lt;a href=&quot;https://fillamentum.com/collections/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Fillamentum&lt;/a&gt; provide technical data sheets for each of their filaments which include the following specifications:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Physical properties&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Material density&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Melt flow index&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Diameter tolerance&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Weight&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Mechanical properties&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tensile strength&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Elongation at break&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tensile modulus&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Charpy impact strength&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Thermal properties&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Glass transition temperature&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Heat deflection temperature&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Printing properties&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Print temperature&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hot pad&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bed adhesive&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30913" LastActivityDate="2023-12-27T13:24:08.273" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22860" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21601" CreationDate="2023-12-27T13:38:12.720" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's a great question, but I don't think jam detection is particularly common on hobbyist printers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know the Prusa MK3.9/MK4 and XL printers intend to add jam detection using the load cell that's built into the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.prusa3d.com/product/original-prusa-xl-2/#nextruder&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Nextruder&lt;/a&gt;, where it can detect the force between the extruder gear and the nozzle. It was promised in their promotional material, but is not implemented yet. (Today it uses the load cell to perform mesh bed levelling.) Jam detection using the load cell would have to be implemented in firmware.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Vector3D build a hotend tester using the same principles, and I feel his video nicely explains how the load cell would detect skipping and jamming: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rrz3bbsnMUI&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;The Next Generation of Hot End Testing - YouTube&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't have any experience of using rotary encoders on a printer, so I cannot comment on how the data from the encoder is used to alert the user of a potential problem. I would hazard a guess that it's an OctoPrint plugin which require you to use serial printing (so OctoPrint knows how much filament is being extruded/retracted moment to moment). A quick search shows there is at least one such plugin: &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/gmatocha/Filament-Watch-Octoprint-Plugin&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;gmatocha/Filament-Watch-Octoprint-Plugin: Octoprint Plugin that monitors filament extrusion with a rotary encoder&lt;/a&gt;, the README lists the required parts and may be a good starting point if you want to build one yourself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30913" LastActivityDate="2023-12-27T13:38:12.720" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22861" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22812" CreationDate="2023-12-27T14:20:22.420" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can look up the &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Polytetrafluoroethylene&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;material properties of Polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE)&lt;/a&gt; and see that its glass transition temperature (when it softens) is around 115 °C, and it melts at 327 °C. The PTFE in a not-all-metal hotend will be in the heatbreak which is significantly colder than the hotend, and should not reach 115 °C.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The plastic casing which holds the heatbreak is typically injection molded &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Acrylonitrile_butadiene_styrene&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;ABS&lt;/a&gt; which softens at 105 °C. So your hotend would begin to shift in a softened carriage before the PTFE began to soften.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The fumes you are worried about are caused by &lt;a href=&quot;https://readingplastic.com/plastic-outgassing&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;off gassing&lt;/a&gt;, which may be a better term to search for if you want something with hard numbers you can reason with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, if you can reason about the maximum temperature your PTFE will experience in the heatbreak (which should be &lt;strong&gt;significantly colder&lt;/strong&gt; than the temperature of the nozzle), you can use this safety chart to reason about how dangerous (or not) it is to be near (see Capricorn's &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.captubes.com/safety.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Safety Precautions&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DuZT7.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Chart of PTFE temperatures against 'Is it safe?'&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DuZT7.png&quot; alt=&quot;Chart of PTFE temperatures against 'Is it safe?'&quot; title=&quot;Chart of PTFE temperatures against 'Is it safe?'&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As regards the safety of an indoor printer, &lt;a href=&quot;https://hackaday.com/2016/02/01/3d-printing-fumes-new-science/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;PLA does not emit a lot of Volatile Organic Compounds (VOCs)&lt;/a&gt; and is generally deemed &amp;quot;safe&amp;quot;. (ABS is known to emit a lot, and is known to cause headaches). PETG seems to emit more than PLA, but still low at &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC7908560/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;550 parts per billion (ppb)&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, all plastics emit some amount of VOCs when heated, so it is always best to print in a well-ventilated area. Personally, I print in my bedroom and spare room and just leave the doors to the rest of the house open, and those little vent slots you get at the top of windows have been enough to keep the air in the house fresh.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(If I print ASA or ABS I absolutely close the doors during printing, then air the room with an open window for 10-20 min when it is done: you don't want the ambient temperature too low when printing - causes excessive warping and other issues).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30913" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2023-12-27T16:17:52.053" LastActivityDate="2023-12-27T16:17:52.053" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22862" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-12-27T15:47:29.853" Score="1" ViewCount="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am considering a CAN Bus setup with &lt;a href=&quot;https://biqu.equipment/collections/control-board/products/manta-m4p-m8p?variant=39859521716322&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;BIGTREETECH Manta M8P, V1.1 or V2.0&lt;/a&gt; with a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.raspberrypi.com/products/compute-module-4/?variant=raspberry-pi-cm4102008&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Raspberry Pi CM4 2GB WiFi&lt;/a&gt; as a mainboard because it is overkill and it shouldn't limit me in any way in a foreseeable future. I am also interested in &lt;a href=&quot;https://e3d-online.com/pages/revo-roto-landing-page&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Revo Roto&lt;/a&gt; as a tool head because it's light and all-in-one solution for a well-established easy-to-use ecosystem. It's advertised as compatible with high-flow nozzles and 60 W / 300 °C heaters, and I am not going to print very high temp materials. To avoid drag chains, I would want a CAN Bus setup, but the only solution for Roto I can find is &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.duet3d.com/Duet3RotoToolboard&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Duet 3 Roto Toolboard&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know the first thing about CAN Bus. Would these two boards work with each other? And what would I need to add, to make it work?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All these boards together add up to a pretty penny, so I don't want to spend that much only to waste some of it and never be able to get it to work. I am not associated with any of these manufacturers, if I were I would make them find answers for me. Links are only for reference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20803" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2023-12-27T16:14:13.610" LastActivityDate="2023-12-27T16:14:13.610" Title="Can Duet 3 Roto Toolboard work with BigTreeTech mainboard?" Tags="|diy-3d-printer|electronics|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22863" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22865" CreationDate="2023-12-27T20:35:27.320" Score="0" ViewCount="91" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been repeatedly printing the same G-code on two fairly identical machines (Creality Ender 3 V2) with the same settings, the only difference being one is printed from a Micro SD card and one is printed using OctoPi over a USB cable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although I didn't measure the exact times, I have the idea that the SD card prints were consistently faster.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it possible that prints from Micro SD card are indeed faster than prints sent from OctoPrint and if so, by how much percent could it be and why?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36802" LastActivityDate="2023-12-28T04:20:42.743" Title="Is printing from a micro SD card faster than printing over a USB cable?" Tags="|g-code|usb|microsd|sd|performance|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22865" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22863" CreationDate="2023-12-28T03:57:51.167" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The slowest USB standard is &amp;quot;low-speed USB 1.0&amp;quot;, at 1.5 megabits per second.  The slowest SD card I've been able to find has a rated read speed of 900 kilobits per second.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The average line of G-code is about 200 bits.  Even the slowest USB connection or SD card can transfer thousands of lines of G-code per second, much faster than your printer can carry out the relevant motions.  Any speed difference is going to come from how a printer handles those data sources, not anything inherent in them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="48" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2023-12-28T04:20:42.743" LastActivityDate="2023-12-28T04:20:42.743" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22867" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-12-28T10:57:51.587" Score="1" ViewCount="62" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to use some kind of simulation software to test my model and find the weakest points for example when pressed or stretches from different angles or positions. Under different loads or conditions, temperature or humidity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How is such analysis called and are generic properties for example for PLA accurate enough for all PLA or is a very narrow and specific profile of material properties and print settings required, does such simulation software exist?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I simply want to find the weakest point of a model and perhaps get suggestions on how to fix it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36802" LastEditorUserId="36802" LastEditDate="2024-01-25T08:34:09.880" LastActivityDate="2024-01-25T08:34:09.880" Title="How to find the weakest point of a model?" Tags="|3d-models|3d-design|print-strength|terminology|analysis|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22868" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22846" CreationDate="2023-12-28T17:02:25.503" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I re-printed the model using Curas overlay settings and some stretched cubes to apply different settings to some of the fan blades:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BDVFF.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BDVFF.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;And once printed, the blade seen here at the very bottom looks like it was the best:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/g2Htt.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/g2Htt.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;The changes on that blade were just 4 bottom layers, 0 top layers and 7 walls (effectively making everything after the bottom 4 layers 100% density with just walls).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure why exactly the gap between the top layers and the walls was showing up, but regardless, this seems to be the fix.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40723" LastActivityDate="2023-12-28T17:02:25.503" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22870" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-12-29T02:46:03.180" Score="2" ViewCount="65" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to use two SDS 5 (DIW) print heads on our Hyrel 3D printer to print one part with two different materials (not use the mixing component supplied by Hyrel company, because we want to DIY the printing nozzle). During the printing process, sometimes only one print head works, sometimes I need two print heads to work together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have thought of possible printing methods, but also have some drawbacks: Uses one print head as master, and another printing head clones the master head, but, using this method, we cannot control the mixed ratio of printing material during the printing process, the mixing ration is fixed during the printing process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a better way to solve this problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40980" LastEditorUserId="4922" LastEditDate="2024-01-08T22:25:05.457" LastActivityDate="2024-01-10T20:24:16.953" Title="Can I use two print heads to print mixed material based on own DIW extruder?" Tags="|multi-material|hyrel|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22871" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21800" CreationDate="2023-12-29T06:16:39.303" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is what I can think of. The Z channel is where you lay your cable inside. Maybe this is something similar to your &amp;quot;U-loop&amp;quot;? This works by transforming the pulling force into the friction between the cable and the internal walls of the channel: The harder you pull, the bigger the friction it generates, thus keeping it in place. This can be totally 3d-printed flatly and the strength of this would depend on your 3d-printing material, thickness, which I think is enough for your goal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, you need to think about the cons of this design:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Space consuming&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Overbending your cable, damaging it&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You need to know your cable size before implementing this design, as it requires a tight fit. This means you have to change the design if you want to use a thicker or thinner wire in the future in development&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope it helps, feel free to point out other flaws of this design.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0nka5.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0nka5.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="39876" LastActivityDate="2023-12-29T06:16:39.303" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22873" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22850" CreationDate="2023-12-29T16:15:06.720" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;None of those items are needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have a bowden extruder, upgrade to a direct drive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even on direct drive systems, PTFE tube is commonly used as a &amp;quot;reverse bowden&amp;quot; or &amp;quot;feed tube&amp;quot; to deliver the filament from a drybox or spool mounting point to the toolhead. Other tube materials may be used, but may contribute too much friction; you'll have to experiment if you want to go that path. You can usually forgo having one at all if youu mound the spool with a good direct path, or setup a system of filament guides/pulleys.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have a PTFE-lined hotend, replace it with an all-metal one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Direct drive extruders may have a small piece of PTFE between the extruder and hotend, even when the hotend is all-metal. This part of the filament path being low-friction is not critical, and it can be replaced with a 2mm ID metal or even printed plastic tube without seriously compromising extrusion capability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Nozzles should never be PTFE-coated. Don't buy ones that are. The best nozzles are 100% tungsten carbide (never wears out, never wears into air or into your printed parts), but pretty much no nozzle should contain any PTFE unless explicitly marketed as such (eew).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a lubricant, there are lots of choices other than PTFE sprays, most of which are probably better. PTFE is highly recommended &lt;strong&gt;against&lt;/strong&gt; for linear rails, as it's reported to lead to sliding by the balls instead of rolling. For smooth rods it might be a good choice, but I would expect there are grease, graphite, or other options that work just as well. I've never used a printer with smooth rods so I can't recommend anything in particular from experience.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2023-12-29T16:15:06.720" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22874" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-12-29T18:37:58.470" Score="0" ViewCount="48" Body="&lt;p&gt;BTT CAN Bus toolhead control board I'm going to use has three fan connectors. Two 2-pin ones, and one 4-pin. What is more valuable, to have tachometer and PWM control over the part cooling fan, or over the hotend radiator cooling fan? On one hand, better part cooling fan control can make better prints (is the 20% cooling&amp;quot;really a 20%?).On the other, being able to easily detect stall on a radiator cooling may be useless 99% of the time, and save my posterior this one time it's needed, by stopping heater when hotendfan fails. So I am lost here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most printers use only 2-pin fans so I guess it's not that big of a deal, and having either one on full control would be a progress, but I want to get the best of what I've got when I'm building it myself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20803" LastEditorUserId="20803" LastEditDate="2024-01-01T00:32:09.190" LastActivityDate="2024-01-01T04:47:51.197" Title="Only one 4-pin fan on toolhead board - use it for part cooling, or hotend radiator fan?" Tags="|diy-3d-printer|fans|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22875" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22891" CreationDate="2023-12-30T14:35:30.853" Score="1" ViewCount="201" Body="&lt;p&gt;To my understanding, all settings including those that resulted from the Nozzle Auto MPC tuning and Bed PID tuning and the created UBL mesh are all stored I the EEPROM by the mriscoc Marlin firmware on a Creality Ender 3 V2.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm asking because I recently encountered a bad (or very slow) micro SD card, where the printer took long to boot to the start screen and start beep (30 sec), consistently with a bad SD, and without a SD it booted almost instantly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, does a Creality Ender 3 V2 running mriscoc firmware require a micro SD card at all, for other things as I previously mentioned?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm printing only over USB using OctoPrint on a Raspberry Pi (OctoPi).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36802" LastEditorUserId="36802" LastEditDate="2024-01-02T10:55:41.250" LastActivityDate="2024-01-03T01:17:38.423" Title="Does a Creality Ender 3 V2 running mriscoc firmware require a micro SD card at all?" Tags="|creality-ender-3|marlin|microsd|mriscoc|eeprom|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22876" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-12-30T14:46:23.600" Score="0" ViewCount="77" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is the maximum read and write speed for micro SD cards that the Creality Ender 3 V2 board V4.2.2 can theoretically handle and what is the maximum SD card size in gigabytes?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Micro SD cards have several ratings such as V10, V30, V60 and V90 which is why I am asking in order to be able to select the fastest possible card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36802" LastActivityDate="2024-01-09T20:14:42.413" Title="What is the maximum size, read and write speed for micro SD cards on a Creality V4.2.2 board?" Tags="|creality-ender-3|microsd|sd|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22877" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18552" CreationDate="2023-12-30T22:25:54.190" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It really took me a little while to understand why you thought that it was subtractive, but I &lt;em&gt;can&lt;/em&gt; now see your point. Which is, that seeing as the resin model is created &lt;em&gt;within&lt;/em&gt; the tank/bath, you are saying that the bath is analogous to a block of aluminium which is whittled away, using CNC, to make a 3D model. The resulting aluminium model was once within the block of aluminium, as was the resin 3D model - therefore, you posit, resin 3D printing is subtractive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The more I thought about it, the more it seemed as if you were, actually, correct.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, then I realised that we were neglecting the hardening process. It is the hardening of the resin that is done in an additive manner, in order to slowly build up the model, therefore the process is additive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You aren't removing/subtracting non-hardened resin from the model (which would result in a non-hardened wobbly model), but instead, as &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/18556/4762&quot;&gt;user10489's answer&lt;/a&gt; states, you are adding hardened resin layers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4762" LastActivityDate="2023-12-30T22:25:54.190" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22878" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22874" CreationDate="2024-01-01T04:47:51.197" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would use it for the hotend cooling, not part cooling. There is utterly no reason to need to know if 20% is &amp;quot;really 20%&amp;quot;. If you're using sub-100% fan settings, the actual linearity of the percentage is irrelevant; you just need to find (experimentally) the power setting that achieves the results you want, and use that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other hand, as you've noted, stall detection is highly valuable for the hotend cooling fan. It can protect you from potentially very serious damage to your printer, if not outright fire hazards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you would like to use both, though, you don't need a 4-pin fan connector. Any endstop/filament-runout-sensor/etc. connector can be repurposed for the fan tach. Just make sure you check the circuit diagrams and ensure they work the way you think they do before connecting anything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2024-01-01T04:47:51.197" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22879" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2024-01-01T06:26:08.310" Score="2" ViewCount="262" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was pretty fascinated with vase mode print results thinking it would be awesome if this could be done with at least 2 (or more) walls. Initially I was told that its not possible because the printer would start on the outer wall (or inner), then once that is completed, smoothly transition to the inner wall, and once that one is done, it would then need to move up 1 layer and move back to the outer wall - Thus creating the Z-seam.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But after thinking about it - that seems like something that could easily be solved by just &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; printing the inner/outer wall in the exact same order on every layer. The printer could just do the outer wall, then like usual, print the inner wall, then instead of retracting and moving to the same location the lower outer wall was created, it could just continue on to print the inner wall on the next level, then the outer wall. Then move up, outer wall, inner wall.. Rinse and repeat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I &lt;em&gt;highly&lt;/em&gt; doubt I'm the first one to think of this, but I didn't see any plugins or settings for this. I don't see why this wouldn't let several wall vase mode prints to be possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Question: Is there some flaw with the above logic? If not, is there a way to get that style of print (I use Cura/Klipper/Ender 3 S1 Pro).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40723" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2024-01-31T22:23:48.387" LastActivityDate="2024-04-04T14:39:21.707" Title="Is there a way to get a &quot;vase mode&quot; for multiple wall prints if you just change the order the walls are printed on each layer?" Tags="|creality-ender-3|ultimaker-cura|klipper|vase-mode|seam|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22880" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8616" CreationDate="2024-01-01T13:40:39.590" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;During the printing process: 110 Watts (Average)&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Can be calculated as energy: 0.11 kWh (Average)&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Just directly multiply it by your model’s total printing time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In short (on average) (based on 2023 electric prices)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;div class=&quot;s-table-container&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;table class=&quot;s-table&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;thead&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;th&gt;&lt;/th&gt;&#xA;&lt;th&gt;&lt;/th&gt;&#xA;&lt;th&gt;&lt;/th&gt;&#xA;&lt;th&gt;&lt;/th&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;/thead&gt;&#xA;&lt;tbody&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;1 hour printing&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;₺0.17 (Turkey)&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;\$0.025 (US)&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;€0.03 (EU)&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;7/24 printing daily cost&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;₺3.96 (Turkey)&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;\$0.63 (US)&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;€0.73 (EU)&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;7/24 printing monthly cost&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;₺119 (Turkey)&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;\$19 (US)&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;€22 (EU)&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tbody&gt;&#xA;&lt;/table&gt;&#xA;&lt;/div&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the table below, you can see all of the actions’ power consumption individually. All values are average and show isolated consumptions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;div class=&quot;s-table-container&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;table class=&quot;s-table&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;thead&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;th&gt;State&lt;/th&gt;&#xA;&lt;th style=&quot;text-align: right;&quot;&gt;Power Consumption Net (Watts)&lt;/th&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;/thead&gt;&#xA;&lt;tbody&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;1 Idle&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td style=&quot;text-align: right;&quot;&gt;7&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;2 Heating Bed&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td style=&quot;text-align: right;&quot;&gt;243&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;3 Heating Nozzle&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td style=&quot;text-align: right;&quot;&gt;41&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;4 Keeping Nozzle Hot&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td style=&quot;text-align: right;&quot;&gt;22&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;5 Keeping Bed Hot&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td style=&quot;text-align: right;&quot;&gt;44&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;6 Steppers Engaged&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td style=&quot;text-align: right;&quot;&gt;18&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;7 Feeding Filament&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td style=&quot;text-align: right;&quot;&gt;5&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;8 X-Y Motors with Max Feedrate - 150 mm/s&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td style=&quot;text-align: right;&quot;&gt;2&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;9 Hotend Fan&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td style=&quot;text-align: right;&quot;&gt;2&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tbody&gt;&#xA;&lt;/table&gt;&#xA;&lt;/div&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For more detailed information, see my Medium Post&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://medium.com/@ermanas/power-consumption-of-the-creality-ender-3-v2-eb946d9fbbd3&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Ender V2 Power Consumption&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37615" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2024-01-01T15:11:07.207" LastActivityDate="2024-01-01T15:11:07.207" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22881" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2024-01-01T13:43:36.133" Score="0" ViewCount="52" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm choosing a new bed for the Creality Ender 3 V2. It's unclear if the Creality Ender 3 V2 came originally with a Carborundum Glass bed or a Borosilicate Glass bed. What is the actual difference between Carborundum Glass and Borosilicate Glass and which has better 3D printer bed properties such as adhesion?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(I'm not interested in personal preference or opinion, which seem to be involved in most available information regarding printer bed choice.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36802" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2024-01-01T15:11:54.147" LastActivityDate="2024-01-01T15:11:54.147" Title="What is the difference between Carborundum Glass and Borosilicate Glass and which has better adhesion properties?" Tags="|creality-ender-3|adhesion|bed|glass-bed|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22883" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22887" CreationDate="2024-01-01T14:48:01.887" Score="2" ViewCount="58" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm using the mriscoc firmware for Creality Ender 3 V2. The firmware has the option to run more PID Autotune cycles. The default is 5 cycles. Does running a PID Autotune with an increased cycle count result in more accurate PID values? For example running 50 cycles instead of the default 5?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36802" LastEditorUserId="36802" LastEditDate="2024-01-01T14:54:25.840" LastActivityDate="2024-01-02T03:25:25.250" Title="Does running a PID Autotune with an increased cycle count result in more accurate PID values?" Tags="|temperature|pid|mriscoc|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22884" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2024-01-01T19:44:44.793" Score="1" ViewCount="35" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is thermal stress the root cause of warping of printed parts? As in the (rapid) shrinkage of the cooling down material?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Either the material (PLA, ABS, PETG) is cooled down too fast either by too much cooling, too fast temperature changes of the bed, chamber or environment?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36802" LastEditorUserId="36802" LastEditDate="2024-01-10T17:53:00.463" LastActivityDate="2024-01-10T17:53:00.463" Title="Is warping solely caused by thermal stress on the printed material?" Tags="|pla|temperature|warping|terminology|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22885" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22879" CreationDate="2024-01-01T21:33:07.167" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have seen a video (unable to locate) which may provide some resolution but it requires that you are the creator and have created the model in such a way as to incorporate this method. There may be model editing practices which can be used on someone else's model, but the skills required would match those of a creator.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the sake of this answer, the model being printed is a simple cylinder and the base is ignored.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Consider the following: the model which generates the cylinder would have a 0.4 mm width wall, arbitrarily consistent with the nozzle size and not locked in stone. The slicer in vase mode performs in the normal, expected manner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the modeling software, excise a vertical slot at any point on the circumference of the cylinder. The slot creates a reversal of direction of the nozzle and as the print progresses, the nozzle returns again to the slot from the opposite direction. The slot width should be large enough to be seen in the slicer as a distinct interruption, but small enough that the extruded filament will join with the previous circuit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is approximately what you describe in your second paragraph. The result would have a wall thickness of 0.8 mm and would have a clearly visible seam at the location of the slot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively, if you have greater skills and understanding than I, you may find &lt;a href=&quot;https://fullcontrolgcode.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Full Control&lt;/a&gt; to be a suitable solution. It is not modeling software, nor is it a slicer. One creates g-code based on parameters provided to the program which allows for models beyond the reach of conventional modeling programs. Images from linked site:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/m2LV0.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/m2LV0.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Full Control Gallery page&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastActivityDate="2024-01-01T21:33:07.167" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22886" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2024-01-01T22:54:18.447" Score="2" ViewCount="38" Body="&lt;p&gt;We have a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.tronxy3d.com/collections/x5sa-400-series/products/tronxy-new-version-x5sa-400-pro&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Tronxy X5SA 400 Pro&lt;/a&gt; which uses a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.tronxy3d.com/products/tronxy-black-tr-auto-leveling-sensor-3d-printer-kit&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;TR sensor&lt;/a&gt; to &amp;quot;auto-level&amp;quot; the printing bed.  It samples 16 positions across the bed (4 x 4) and provides a +/- level from its initial measurement.  For example, it might produce a grid like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;+0.280   +0.155   -0.108   +0.127   &#xA;-0.267   -0.010   -0.005   -0.218   &#xA;-0.114   -0.020   +0.004   +0.000   &#xA;-0.143   +0.110   +0.253   -0.270  &#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you can see in this contrived example, measurements toward the center are closer to a Z-offset of 0 because that is what it samples first; toward the edge, it can be off by ~0.3mm.  By turning the sprung leveling screws, I can usually get it to within 0.250mm across the bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, 0.250mm variance is still too much for 0.1mm-layer prints because at the center it is right on, but on the edge it is 2-3x the layer height above the bed...or worse, in the opposite case, the head will crash if the bed curves in the +Z direction; thus, I have to babysit the first layer and manually +/-Z as needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Prints in the center of the bed are great, but adhesion can be poor on the first layer when it prints near the edge, and part thickness can be off by ~1-3 layers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Question:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a way to tell Cura about these 16x calibration points and have it adjust the print head with a linear extrapolation between points?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(I did find the &lt;a href=&quot;https://marketplace.ultimaker.com/app/cura/plugins/fieldofview/ZOffsetPlugin&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Z Offset Setting plugin&lt;/a&gt;, but that appears to support only a single-valued offset.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ngvbG.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ngvbG.png&quot; alt=&quot;Tronxy TR sensor&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="41015" LastEditorUserId="41015" LastEditDate="2024-01-01T23:20:41.683" LastActivityDate="2024-01-01T23:20:41.683" Title="Can Cura apply multiple Z-offsets across the bed to &quot;flatten&quot; the print area?" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|z-axis|calibration|z-probe|dimensional-accuracy|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22887" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22883" CreationDate="2024-01-02T03:25:25.250" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In short, &lt;strong&gt;yes&lt;/strong&gt;, More PID cycles will generally yield 'better' results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, the PID values are being averaged over these multiple runs, and it will very quickly pass the point of diminishing returns after 5 cycles, Hence why it is the default.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By the time you reach the hypothetical 50 cycles, you have likely far exceeded the margin of error present as a result of tolerances in your setup, and are only averaging noise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6996" LastActivityDate="2024-01-02T03:25:25.250" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22888" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22900" CreationDate="2024-01-02T13:30:33.927" Score="2" ViewCount="58" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to make a print where I swap color halfway through. I have tried doing something similar with a 2+ Connect before, and what the internet told me then was to go into Ultimaker Cura and modify the G-code to add a filament change. And the printer blew right past that layer and printed the whole thing in one go. (How Cura would allow me, completely without warning, to insert G-code unsupported by the chosen printer, especially since the chosen printer is of their own make and entirely under their control, is beyond me, and also a different question.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So naturally, now that I'm working with an Ultimaker 2+ (Extended, with original firmware up-to-date according to Cura), I am inclined to distrust Cura with these things. I have tried to look into modifying the G-code manually to add a pause, and then by hand interrupt the print to change filament. The two main options I have found are the commands &lt;code&gt;M0&lt;/code&gt; and &lt;code&gt;G04&lt;/code&gt;. But none of the sources I have found have mentioned printer support. I haven't been able to find anything online that tells me whether &lt;code&gt;M0&lt;/code&gt; or &lt;code&gt;G04&lt;/code&gt; are actually supported by the firmware.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The G-code that Cura makes, with the settings I chose, uses &lt;code&gt;M0&lt;/code&gt;, as shown below:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;G0 F9000 X19.305 Y19.27&#xA;G0 X19.27 Y19.27&#xA;;TIME_ELAPSED:25576.615046&#xA;;TYPE:CUSTOM&#xA;;added code by post processing&#xA;;script: PauseAtHeight.py&#xA;;current layer: 22&#xA;M83 ; switch to relative E values for any needed retraction&#xA;G1 F300 Z4.57 ; move up a millimeter to get out of the way&#xA;G1 F9000 X190 Y190&#xA;G1 F300 Z15 ; too close to bed--move to at least 15mm&#xA;M0 ; Do the actual pause&#xA;G1 F300 Z3.57&#xA;G1 F9000 X19.27 Y19.27&#xA;G1 F300 Z3.57 ; move back down to resume height&#xA;G1 F1800 ; restore extrusion feedrate&#xA;M82 ; switch back to absolute E values&#xA;G92 E3066.65549&#xA;;LAYER:22&#xA;;TYPE:FILL&#xA;;MESH:brett.stl&#xA;G11&#xA;G1 F3600 X34.487 Y34.487 E3067.94669&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would this even work? And if it turns out that it doesn't, is it as easy to fix as swapping out that &lt;code&gt;M0&lt;/code&gt; command with a &lt;code&gt;G04&lt;/code&gt; (possibly with a specified time argument)? Finally, I want this change to happen between what Cura, in the slice preview, calls layers 23 and 24, where it seemingly gives the first layer the name 1. The G-code insertion wizard asks me to insert the last layer I would like finished before the pause and specifies that 0 is the first layer printed. So I enter 22 in there. But in the above G-code, it seems to have inserted the pause &lt;strong&gt;before&lt;/strong&gt; it begins to print its layer 22 (which in the Cura preview would be layer 23?) I need some help untangling this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="41022" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2024-01-02T15:06:50.190" LastActivityDate="2024-01-04T20:42:30.217" Title="Does Cura's M0 pause work to pause an Ultimaker 2+ (Extended) print?" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|g-code|ultimaker-2|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22889" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22957" CreationDate="2024-01-02T20:55:22.867" Score="0" ViewCount="120" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yesterday, I upgraded my Ender 3 with a Creality touchscreen that is compatible with it. However, since the installation, it gets stuck on the loading screen once the bar fills up. I tried different versions and even built my own, but they all gave me one of three responses:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Stuck on loading screen&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;code&gt;Firmware unexpected. TF may be corrupted. Try renaming or using different TF.&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Take me to the interface with half the buttons/widgets responding and no functionality.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And I can't reinstall the old LCD because I had to cut its cable to disconnect it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also asked the Bing AI, which gave me tips that didn't work.&#xA;Any tips from &lt;strong&gt;this&lt;/strong&gt; community?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="41026" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2024-01-03T05:03:53.570" LastActivityDate="2024-01-17T15:26:09.480" Title="My Ender 3 malfunctions with touchscreen" Tags="|creality-ender-3|troubleshooting|firmware|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22891" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22875" CreationDate="2024-01-03T01:17:38.423" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you only print from Octoprint, the SD card is not used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36724" LastActivityDate="2024-01-03T01:17:38.423" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22892" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22827" CreationDate="2024-01-03T13:12:02.593" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;First the questions in the body are addressed:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I realised that there are three end-stop switches, one for each axis, X, Y, and Z. But this only helps to determine the start (0) position of each axis.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No not necessarily, you could mount an endstop to the other end of the axis to determine the maximum value for that axis without the need for a start endstop, Marlin is already equipped with functionality for this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;// Direction of endstops when homing; 1=MAX, -1=MIN&#xA;// :[-1,1]&#xA;#define X_HOME_DIR -1&#xA;#define Y_HOME_DIR -1&#xA;#define Z_HOME_DIR -1&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;E.g. Ultimaker printers have their Z-endstop at the bottom, so the maximum value of the Z axis.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wouldn't doubling the end stops to six instead, two for each axis, one on each side, help to determine not only the start but also the end position?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No, not necessarily, the end is fixed by the start position and the defined axis length (e.g. bed size of Z movement). It might be interesting to use a second endstop in case something goes wrong. E.g. layer shift as a result of the nozzle hitting something redefines the origin and could result in thinking the origin is somewhere on the build plate, adding the maximum bed sizes, the printhead could run into the end and destroy your printer, a second endstop, when triggered will stop the printer. I have used such an endstop on one of my printers, but I have never ran into problems with layer shifting and as such the endstop was never hit; I removed this endstop recently.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Besides, to my understanding, the switches are called 'end stops' but are used as 'start stops' in this case&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The start is also an end of the axis, there are two ends on an axis.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If each axis has an 'end stop' at the start and at the end, it can dynamically determine how many steps can be taken.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No, steps are determined by your hardware (common hardware configuration for stepper motors is e.g. 200 steps per revolution or 400 or even more/less steps per revolution) together with the stepper driver which allows for substeps of the afore mentioned values.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Moverover, wouldn't it prevent wrongly configured firmware (by means of a 'hard stop' where stepper motor are trying to move something moving beyond the physical possible axis potentially resulting in catastrophic damage?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes it would, I already described that in case of layer shifting. But if you are bold enough to compile your own software you should known what you are doing and configure it correctly. Also test the printer before you use it and keep the powerswitch nearby.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now to answer the main question,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How could dual end-stop switches on each axis improve the functionality and precision of 3D printers like the Creality Ender 3 V2?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The precision will not be improved by adding another endstop to the other side of the axis. However, the functionality can be improved by adding another endstop but this is mainly protecting the printer in case something went wrong, as in the printhead has changed its position relative to the origin, e.g. in case of layer shifting. Knowing that the Creality Ender 3 are printers on the cheap end with their shortcomings (see all the questions) this may prevent damaging the printer, but, generally the belt skips when the head is obstructed in X-Y range. For the Z direction this may be different as there are lead screws involved which can procude more force (but I have yet to see a layer shift in Z direction...).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2024-01-03T19:26:17.000" LastActivityDate="2024-01-03T19:26:17.000" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22893" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12258" CreationDate="2024-01-03T14:58:52.550" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I managed to get openscad-step-reader to compile, but I had to jump through a few hoops:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Run the &lt;code&gt;apt-get&lt;/code&gt; install command from the beginning of the Makefile:&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;code&gt;apt-get install libocct-data-exchange-dev libocct-draw-dev libocct-foundation-dev libocct-modeling-algorithms-dev libocct-modeling-data-dev libocct-ocaf-dev libocct-visualization-dev libtbb-dev&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Ignore anything to do with &lt;code&gt;cmake&lt;/code&gt;. I can get &lt;code&gt;cmake&lt;/code&gt; to work by creating a &lt;code&gt;CMakeLists.txt&lt;/code&gt; file, but I couldn't get the &lt;code&gt;Makefile&lt;/code&gt; it generates to work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Edit &lt;code&gt;triangle.h&lt;/code&gt; and replace&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;code&gt;ostream&lt;/code&gt; with &lt;code&gt;std::ostream&lt;/code&gt; [2 changes]&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;code&gt;endl&lt;/code&gt; with &lt;code&gt;std::endl&lt;/code&gt; [3 changes]&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Edit &lt;code&gt;openscad-step-reader.cpp&lt;/code&gt; and replace&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;code&gt;endl&lt;/code&gt; with &lt;code&gt;std::endl&lt;/code&gt; [1 change]&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Edit &lt;code&gt;explore-shape.cpp&lt;/code&gt; and add&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;code&gt;#include &amp;lt;GeomAbs_SurfaceType.hxx&amp;gt;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;code&gt;#include &amp;lt;BRepAdaptor_Surface.hxx&amp;gt;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Edit the &lt;code&gt;Makefile&lt;/code&gt; and change&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;code&gt;7.3.0&lt;/code&gt; to &lt;code&gt;7.5.2&lt;/code&gt; [2 changes]&#xA;(I realise a better solution would be desirable for this!)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Run &lt;code&gt;make&lt;/code&gt;. The &lt;code&gt;.o&lt;/code&gt; files should be created, but the &lt;code&gt;cc&lt;/code&gt; command will fail (after a longish time), citing 'undefined reference' 783 times&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Copy the &lt;code&gt;cc&lt;/code&gt; command that was printed whilst running make, and put all the &lt;code&gt;.o&lt;/code&gt; files before all the &lt;code&gt;-l&lt;/code&gt; arguments, like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;cc openscad-step-reader.o tessellation.o openscad-triangle-writer.o explore-shape.o -lTKSTL -lTKXDESTEP -lTKBinXCAF -lTKXmlXCAF -lTKXDEIGES -lTKXCAF -lTKIGES -lTKSTEP -lTKSTEP209 -lTKSTEPAttr -lTKSTEPBase -lTKXSBase -lTKStd -lTKStdL -lTKXml -lTKBin -lTKXmlL -lTKBinL -lTKCAF -lTKXCAF -lTKLCAF -lTKCDF -lTKMeshVS -lTKOpenGl -lTKV3d -lTKService -lTKXMesh -lTKMesh -lTKOffset -lTKFeat -lTKFillet -lTKHLR -lTKBool -lTKBO -lTKShHealing -lTKPrim -lTKTopAlgo -lTKGeomAlgo -lTKBRep -lTKGeomBase -lTKG3d -lTKG2d -lTKIGES -lTKSTEP -lTKSTEP209 -lTKSTEPAttr -lTKSTEPBase -lTKXSBase -lTKStd -lTKStdL -lTKXml -lTKBin -lTKXmlL -lTKBinL -lTKCAF -lTKLCAF -lTKCDF -lTKMeshVS -lTKOpenGl -lTKV3d -lTKService -lTKXMesh -lTKMesh -lTKOffset -lTKFeat -lTKFillet -lTKHLR -lTKBool -lTKBO -lTKShHealing -lTKPrim -lTKTopAlgo -lTKGeomAlgo -lTKBRep -lTKGeomBase -lTKG3d -lTKG2d /usr/lib/x86_64-linux-gnu/libTKMath.so.7.5.2 /usr/lib/x86_64-linux-gnu/libTKernel.so.7.5.2 -lfreetype -lpthread -lrt -lstdc++ -ldl -lm   -o openscad-step-reader&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, for me, the program will compile. My system is running Ubuntu Focal Fossa 20.04.6 LTS. I contacted the author (Gordon Assaf) but he said he was no longer working on the project. For me, this has been a godsend, since it allows me to import .step files downloaded from the Swagelok website into my OpenSCAD design.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="41031" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2024-01-03T15:06:20.267" LastActivityDate="2024-01-03T15:06:20.267" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22894" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2024-01-03T21:50:26.107" Score="-1" ViewCount="79" Body="&lt;p&gt;My Ender 3 had a broken part so I replaced all the plastic above the extruder motor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After learning how to safely take off the pressure-fitted hobbed gear, I installed a new one that could be replaced more easily. Now the teeth of the gear are too low to reach the PLA. The rest looks fine, I've tried flipping it upside down (the squeezy handle won't fit) and I've tried moving it as high up as I can. Do I have to buy a new motor with a longer rod? (sorry I don't know the names of these things)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As previously mentioned, the gear has already been replaced. It's not stuck and I now have one with screws (its the one in the picture)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xlZ9J.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Photo of the Creality metal extruder with the brass hobbed gear too low to reach the filament&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xlZ9J.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Photo of the Creality metal extruder with the brass hobbed gear too low to reach the filament&quot; title=&quot;Photo of the Creality metal extruder with the brass hobbed gear too low to reach the filament&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="41034" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2024-01-05T05:10:53.627" LastActivityDate="2024-01-05T11:32:15.613" Title="The part of the motor that the hobbed gear goes on is too short" Tags="|creality-ender-3|replacement-parts|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22896" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22894" CreationDate="2024-01-04T07:57:53.250" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The question &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/15131/problems-with-stock-gear-with-no-screw-on-ender-3-pro/16030&quot;&gt;Problems with stock gear with no screw on Ender 3 pro&lt;/a&gt;, more specifically &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/16030/&quot;&gt;this answer&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/15285/&quot;&gt;this answer&lt;/a&gt; describe that after changing the gear, the shaft is too short. It is advised to just buy a replacement stepper or tap the shaft from the bottom of the stepper to extend the shaft. First option is probably the easiest solution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2024-01-04T07:57:53.250" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22897" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22936" CreationDate="2024-01-04T10:20:46.293" Score="2" ViewCount="206" Body="&lt;p&gt;The new OctoPi camera stack is reported to be lighter, more efficient, and overall better. Old camera stack sometimes loses access to my camera during print, and only regains it after restart. Thus, obviously, I want to try the new one. Maybe it'll help with my specific problem, maybe it won't, but it has to be at least slightly better. I do not want to lose my uploaded files, Octolapse lapses, plugin config etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, is there a way to upgrade to the new camera stack without reinstall? Or to save plugins, configs and files to restore them after reinstall?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20803" LastActivityDate="2024-01-10T19:16:35.053" Title="How to migrate OctoPi to new camera stack without reinstall?" Tags="|octopi|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22900" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22888" CreationDate="2024-01-04T20:42:30.217" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I decided to go ahead and try anyways, to moderate success.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main takeaways:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;code&gt;M0&lt;/code&gt; does definitely work as advertised.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;During the pause, plastic had been leaking from the nozzle and down on the print, and during the filament change even more leaked out. Next time I'm doing this, I'm adding significantly more height to the line &lt;code&gt;G1 F300 Z15&lt;/code&gt; (right above &lt;code&gt;M0&lt;/code&gt;) and perhaps will consider a different parking spot (the line &lt;code&gt;G1 F9000 X190 Y190&lt;/code&gt; right above that again) to prevent this from affecting the print&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;As I extracted the blue filament that I started the print with, I saw that a couple of milimeters at the end had gotten singed and miscolored. Not much of an issue, though, I'll just snap it off next time I load it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Even though I did get plastic of the right color coming through the nozzle during the change procedure, as the printer resumed printing, it didn't actually print anything (presumably it retracted a little bit). I had to push the filament through the tube manually to get it to print correctly, but a little bit of the new layer was missing. Luckily, the next layer printed fine even without the layer below supporting it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When entering which layer to pause on into the wizard, it seems one should believe the layer numbers in the slice preview of Cura and the part of the pop-up that tells you to enter the layer that will complete before the pause. Everything else around this confused me into suspecting an off-by-one error somewhere, but those were just red herrings.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the rightmost corner you can see a little bit of the damage from the leaking while swapping filament, but most of it is hidden below the black (and you can also see that it didn't stick to the build plate, but that's entirely unrelated to this issue).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LnZUd.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LnZUd.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="41022" LastActivityDate="2024-01-04T20:42:30.217" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22901" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20389" CreationDate="2024-01-04T20:56:11.883" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can upload G-code directly from Cura or PrusaSlicer, but you need to use a &lt;a href=&quot;https://octoeverywhere.com/sharredconnection&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;OctoEverywhere Shared Connection&lt;/a&gt; when you set up your OctoPrint or Klipper instance in Cura.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a &lt;a href=&quot;https://blog.octoeverywhere.com/cura-everywhere/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;step-by-step guide&lt;/a&gt; on how to set Cura with OctoEverywhere.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="41046" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2024-01-05T05:12:01.997" LastActivityDate="2024-01-05T05:12:01.997" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22902" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4224" CreationDate="2024-01-04T21:00:22.877" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you set up &lt;a href=&quot;https://octoprint.org/download/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;OctoPrint&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;https://all3dp.com/2/klipper-install-simply-explained/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Klipper,&lt;/a&gt; you can then use a tool like &lt;a href=&quot;https://octoeverywhere.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;OctoEverywhere&lt;/a&gt; to get remote access and share it. OctoEverywhere has a feature called &lt;a href=&quot;https://octoeverywhere.com/sharedconnections&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Shared Connections&lt;/a&gt; that lets you share printer access with anyone over the internet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="41046" LastActivityDate="2024-01-04T21:00:22.877" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22903" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2024-01-04T21:12:45.997" Score="0" ViewCount="50" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying out &lt;a href=&quot;https://octoeverywhere.com/gadget&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;OctoEverywhere's Gadget&lt;/a&gt; AI print failure detection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's been working surprisingly well, but I wondered if there was an ideal camera position, image format, or whatever to ensure it could always catch failures. Does anyone have any idea?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="41047" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2024-01-05T05:08:30.720" LastActivityDate="2024-01-05T22:07:11.033" Title="Ideal camera position For OctoEverywhere's Gadget AI" Tags="|octoprint|octopi|camera|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22904" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2024-01-05T02:01:24.557" Score="1" ViewCount="40" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am attempting to set up an MMU, the Mosaic Palette 3 Pro, with my Ender 3 (original version), with mods of note being Klipper firmware and the MicroSwiss Direct Drive NG Extruder. Accessory Mode is the mode of operation and I have set the outgoing tube length and loading offset appropriately.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After some trial and error of the MMU not creating enough filament for the outgoing tube, I am dealing with (hopefully the last setup-related issue) prints running out of filament approximately 75% through on the test keychain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I slice with PrusaSlicer, so I can have an offline slicer, and use P2PP for post-processing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, the file that I see on Klipper and the generated MAFX from PrusaSlicer+P2PP vary wildly in the amount of filament consumed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why is the Palette claiming that it only requires 1.99 meters of filament for the job, while Klipper thinks it's 2.45 meters from the uploaded G-code?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Current P2PP start G-code for PrusaSlicer:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;BED_MESH_PROFILE LOAD=&amp;quot;default&amp;quot;;&#xA;G28;&#xA;M82;&#xA;G92 E0;&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;;P2PP PALETTE3_PRO&#xA;;P2PP P3_UPLOADFILE&#xA;;P2PP PRINTERPROFILE=12345678901234567890123456789012&#xA;&#xA;;P2PP P3_HOSTNAME=192.168.1.8&#xA;;P2PP P3_SHOWPRINTERPAGE&#xA;;P2PP P3_PROCESSPREHEAT&#xA;;P2PP SPLICEOFFSET=40&#xA;;P2PP MINSTARTSPLICE=130&#xA;;P2PP MINSPLICE=90&#xA;;P2PP EXTRAENDFILAMENT=150&#xA;;P2PP LINEARPINGLENGTH=350&#xA;;P2PP MATERIAL_PLA_PLA_2_2_1&#xA;;P2PP MATERIAL_PLA_PVA_3_3_-4&#xA;;P2PP MATERIAL_PVA_PLA_3_3_-4&#xA;;P2PP KLIPPER_TOOLCHANGE&#xA;;P2PP ACCESSORYMODE_MAFX &#xA;;P2PP ABSOLUTEEXTRUDER&#xA;;P2PP CONFIGEND&#xA;&lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;```&lt;/span&gt;&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40636" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2024-01-05T05:06:49.587" LastActivityDate="2024-01-05T05:06:49.587" Title="Why does Consumed Filament vary between MAFX and G-code?" Tags="|g-code|post-processing|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22905" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22894" CreationDate="2024-01-05T11:32:15.613" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;So, as mentioned, you could get a new stepper motor. As an alernative, have you tried flipping the hobbed gear around (as shown in this picture)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/avNDF.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/avNDF.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30559" LastActivityDate="2024-01-05T11:32:15.613" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22906" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2024-01-05T14:00:43.407" Score="1" ViewCount="51" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have issues with momentarily temperature spikes, but only above 250 °C. At and below 250 °C it's pretty solid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm using Prusa MK3s+ with a E3D Revo upgrade.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suspected connector issues as described in &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/q/16154/20803&quot;&gt;Random hot-end temperature spikes&lt;/a&gt; but in my case, the reported temperature spikes up, then compensates down - exactly opposite to what Space Faring Or Bust reported. Also, my issue happens only at specific temperatures. Connectors on both ends of a cable look good. I don't recall it happening earlier, on my old V6 hotend.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A side question is, are these even real? Or just a read error or a display artifact?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I cut the connector off and re-crimped it, but it didn't help, it looks exactly as it did before.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FxW5f.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Screenshot of Octoprint's temperature graph showing spikes for the hotend&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FxW5f.png&quot; alt=&quot;Screenshot of Octoprint's temperature graph showing spikes for the hotend&quot; title=&quot;Screenshot of Octoprint's temperature graph showing spikes for the hotend&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20803" LastEditorUserId="20803" LastEditDate="2024-01-12T20:33:29.290" LastActivityDate="2024-01-12T20:33:29.290" Title="What issue can make very short temperature spikes to appear?" Tags="|prusa-i3|temperature|e3d-revo|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22907" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22909" CreationDate="2024-01-05T14:21:49.017" Score="0" ViewCount="197" Body="&lt;p&gt;When pushing the limits of the bed size (235x235 mm) for two Creality Ender 3 V2 printers running the same mriscoc firmware and the same config and upgrades. I noticed that despite using the same G-code for these two fairly identical printers resulted in offsets that was not accounted for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I sliced and printed a test model &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2280529/files&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;175mm_bed_center_calibration_crosshair.stl from Thingiverse.com&lt;/a&gt; and when slicing in Cura it is perfectly centered as shown below:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9EC62m.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9EC62m.png&quot; alt=&quot;test center model&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However when printed on each printer and measured, the position in mm for both printers (namely Owl and Fox) are off as shown below:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UZLXt.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UZLXt.png&quot; alt=&quot;measurement of center position for two printers&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would like to setup the printers fairly similar, I only print from OctoPi over USB to these printers, one Pi for each printer, so that I can slice once and use the same G-code on both printers. How do I calibrate this without recompiling the firmware? Can I setup a start or end G-code in OctoPi per printer to set a proper center offset? And moreover, why does this happen for identical printers? Shouldn't the tolerance be much smaller than 3 mm difference horizontally and 2 mm vertically (shown from above)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Additional measurements&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For reference, based on request in the comments some measurements of the end stops relative to the frame of the XY-axes of both printers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Measurement of the Z-axes are irrelevant for this purpose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Owl Y-axis Endstop (85mm)&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/djshl.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/djshl.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Owl Y-axis Endstop&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Fox Y-axis Endstop (85mm)&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rJUbf.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rJUbf.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Fox Y-axis Endstop&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Owl X-axis Endstop (45mm)&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1R0T7.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1R0T7.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Owl X-axis Endstop&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Fox X-Axis Endstop (45mm)&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BY9Wi.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BY9Wi.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Fox X-Axis Endstop&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also measured the &lt;strong&gt;size between the bed and the frame&lt;/strong&gt; as shown below and it's precisely 7mm &lt;strong&gt;on each side&lt;/strong&gt; of the bed &lt;strong&gt;on both printers&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UlgAu.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UlgAu.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Space between bed and frame&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think these are the only measurements that make sense, but correct me if you have other suggestions for measuring it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, the only offset that is reported after running the M503 G-code in  G-cod M851 it not relevant for centering, the Z-offset. For Fox &lt;code&gt;M851 X-41.50 Y-7.00 Z-1.13 ; (mm)&lt;/code&gt; and for Owl &lt;code&gt;M851 X-41.50 Y-7.00 Z-1.06 ; (mm)&lt;/code&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36802" LastEditorUserId="36802" LastEditDate="2024-01-08T22:49:31.750" LastActivityDate="2024-01-08T22:49:31.750" Title="Why do two identical Creality Ender 3 V2 printers have a center that is 3 mm off from each other and 7 mm off expected and how to calibrate it?" Tags="|creality-ender-3|calibration|bed|mriscoc|octopi|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22908" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20389" CreationDate="2024-01-05T15:17:55.460" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The latest Octoprint web UI (as of writing, Version 1.9.3) allows for drag n' drop for file upload.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Slice and export locally, then drag it over to the Web UI, or use the embedded upload button.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40636" LastEditorUserId="40636" LastEditDate="2024-01-05T17:44:58.610" LastActivityDate="2024-01-05T17:44:58.610" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22909" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22907" CreationDate="2024-01-05T17:21:47.697" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was surprised to find this out as I haven't heard or read anything about this before in any 'calibration instruction' or 'calibration guide'.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, as I just found out, the mriscoc firmware gladly has a very easy way of changing this from the menu as documented on the &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/mriscoc/Ender3V2S1/wiki/How-to-set-the-home-offsets&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;mriscoc GitHub Wiki&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As I already took measurements as shown in the question and as my bed is 235x235 mm. I simply used the LCD menu to go to &lt;strong&gt;Advanced &amp;gt; Physical settings&lt;/strong&gt; and then for printer 'Owl' I changed it to:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;X_MIN_POS = 5&#xA;X_MAX_POS = 240&#xA;Y_MIN_POS = 5&#xA;Y_MAX_POS = 240&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For 'Fox' I changed it to:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;X_MIN_POS = 2&#xA;X_MAX_POS = 237&#xA;Y_MIN_POS = 7&#xA;Y_MAX_POS = 242&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also set the bed size to 235x235 for both printers. I reprinted the test file on each printer and now it is perfectly and equally aligned for each. The question still remains how this could be so far off the center and off identical printers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36802" LastEditorUserId="36802" LastEditDate="2024-01-06T21:33:34.430" LastActivityDate="2024-01-06T21:33:34.430" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22911" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2024-01-05T19:09:32.440" Score="3" ViewCount="126" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was recently trying to heat my hot end to 250° C to try and get PETG to stop stringing. When I did this, I realized after about 10 minutes of waiting that it never quite got there. It would only get to ~247-248° C, fluctuating in that arena.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This started me to wondering, &lt;strong&gt;is there a rule of thumb for heater replacement?&lt;/strong&gt; Should you replace it in a given amount of time, when it isn't doing the job anymore (like mine &lt;em&gt;seems&lt;/em&gt; to be doing), or just replace it when it dies?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11242" LastEditorUserId="36802" LastEditDate="2024-01-05T20:59:14.693" LastActivityDate="2024-01-06T01:12:07.043" Title="How often should you change out your hot end heating element?" Tags="|hotend|maintenance|replacement|heating-element|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22912" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19435" CreationDate="2024-01-05T20:34:09.560" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A workaround I found is to insert custom G-code before the layer change and simply move the printer head out of the way, wait a couple of seconds so you can insert bearings, magnets, etc. then resumes the print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;M300 S440 P200        ;beep&#xA;G60                   ;save current position&#xA;G28  X0               ;home X axis, print head moves to the left&#xA;G4 S60                ;wait 60 seconds&#xA;M300 S440 P200        ;beep&#xA;G61                   ;restore saved position&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not as good as the printer prompting you but if you don't want to connect a computer then this is probably the simplest solution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="41055" LastActivityDate="2024-01-05T20:34:09.560" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22913" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22903" CreationDate="2024-01-05T22:07:11.033" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The ideal camera position details for AI failure detection are listed on the &lt;a href=&quot;https://octoeverywhere.com/gadget&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Gagdget website&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But in general, they are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Make sure there's good lighting on the print.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Make sure the entire print can be seen at all times, even if the bed moves.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Reduce the number of other objects the camera can see to prevent false positive detection.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="41046" LastActivityDate="2024-01-05T22:07:11.033" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22914" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22911" CreationDate="2024-01-05T22:09:30.007" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't think there is any rule for when to change the hotend since it's dependent on a lot of factors like the filament types you print with, if your nozzle hits the bed often, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Generally, I check the nozzle every two weeks or so. I end up replacing it about every 6 months, from a moderate amount of printing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="41046" LastActivityDate="2024-01-05T22:09:30.007" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22915" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2024-01-05T22:56:34.900" Score="0" ViewCount="70" Body="&lt;p&gt;Having used multiple brands of filament and different spool sizes what always annoyed me is that almost no single filament producer that I know, states clearly and accurately the weight of the empty spool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can we possibly estimate how much filament is left on a spool based on weight if we cannot subtract a know spool weight? Which also can vary based on humidity for cardboard spools?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Side-note: In my personal opinion filament produces should at the very least publish a reliable empty spool weight and other properties such as a metric of abbrasivness.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems that a filament runout sensor is a real duct tape solution to the problem. What currently available solutions can be used to determine how much filament weight is left on the spool without knowing empty spool weight?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36802" LastActivityDate="2024-01-06T00:52:38.543" Title="What currently available solutions can be used to determine how much filament weight is left on the spool without knowing empty spool weight?" Tags="|filament|filament-choice|change-filament|filament-production|runout-sensor|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22916" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21402" CreationDate="2024-01-05T23:03:47.703" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Don't know if you fixed it yet but this happened to me today. There's an eccentric nut on the right. Tighten it so it doesn't wobble but not so tight that it doesn't move.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="41059" LastActivityDate="2024-01-05T23:03:47.703" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22917" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22915" CreationDate="2024-01-06T00:52:38.543" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my experience, empty plastic spools weigh between 125 and 250 grams. My practice is to weigh a full spool after removing all the packaging and record that weigh before using any.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While using the spool I assume the weight of the spool is equal to the recorded gross weight less 1,000 grams. In actual practice over many spools, they invariably end up weighing 5-50 grams more than calculated, meaning that I got a few meters less filament than I paid for. I've never seen one go the other way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once a spool is nearly empty (~30 m or less) it's fairly easy to count the remaining wraps, visually estimate the spool core diameter and calculate the remaining length. Experience indicates this can be done to within a meter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it's necessary to know the amount with high precision it's not terribly difficult to remove the remaining filament and weigh it directly. The remnant can then be rewound or used directly from a loose coil.  I don't recommend that method for anything over 25-30 meters but have done it from time to time with that amount or less without serious problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a final measure if attempting to use the bitter end of a spool, it's wise to be prepared to do a pause and filament swap to a new spool if coming up short. That's fairly easily done but there is always a risk that there could be a slight color mismatch between old and new. I have tried splicing a new length on the fly to one that's coming up short. I've had mixed results with that and now much prefer the pause-and-swap method.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The safest practice if there's doubt that enough remains for a specific job would be to use a new spool and save the nearly exhausted one for a smaller print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="33030" LastActivityDate="2024-01-06T00:52:38.543" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22918" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22911" CreationDate="2024-01-06T01:12:07.043" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I see no benefit to changing a heater that's performing acceptably. The only rationale I can think of for a predictive or preventive change-out would be to head off the cumulative effects of repeated wire flexing. That would be devilishly difficult to predict.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unless one was about to kick off an extremely high value print due to high consequence schedule constraints or high material cost, it's difficult seeing a pre-emptive heater change being justified. Even then, it becomes a risk comparison between wear-out of the old and infant mortality of the new.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="33030" LastActivityDate="2024-01-06T01:12:07.043" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22920" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22907" CreationDate="2024-01-07T06:47:01.727" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Perhaps the hot-end or end stops of one of the printers are located in a slightly different location. That's why there is a &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/mriscoc/Ender3V2S1/wiki/Calibration-Guides&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;calibration guide&lt;/a&gt; to be able to correct that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36724" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2024-01-07T13:55:58.123" LastActivityDate="2024-01-07T13:55:58.123" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22922" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2024-01-08T00:28:52.307" Score="0" ViewCount="489" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an Ender 3 Pro 4.2.7  2.0.8.2 that I haven't used for a couple of months; switched it on, all perfect. I tried to print a model and the PLA wouldn't stick to the bed; I think the hotend was a fraction high.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Re-adjusted bed to ensure square and flat as hadn't been used. Switched off and then hotend defaulted to 5 mm above table. Thought I'd do a firmware update, load the latest software put, it on a clean, formatted (4096) SD card, switch off power put the card in, and switch it on, just booted up as normal, ignoring the firmware update.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I followed all instructions from the web including a new card, renaming the file, etc. Switched off, switched on. now when I try to do &lt;strong&gt;Auto Home&lt;/strong&gt; or &lt;strong&gt;Level Bed&lt;/strong&gt;, &lt;strong&gt;nothing&lt;/strong&gt; happens, no beeps no movement, and a minute later get &amp;quot;Homing failed printer halted please reset&amp;quot;. Check all connections, put a meter on all micro switches, and perfect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Nothing now moves and don't know what to do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="41081" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2024-01-08T04:40:31.903" LastActivityDate="2024-01-08T15:29:31.387" Title="Error message &quot;homing failed printer halted please reset&quot;" Tags="|homing|reset|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22923" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22922" CreationDate="2024-01-08T15:29:31.387" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Check if the firmware is for the board version of your printer. Different boards may have different drivers or pin definition, which happens for example, when you flash a 4.2.2 firmware on a 4.2.7 board and vice versa.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36724" LastActivityDate="2024-01-08T15:29:31.387" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22924" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22870" CreationDate="2024-01-08T22:22:55.420" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've answered Jingcheng already, as he also emailed us with this question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For posterity, I summarize the answer below. I work for Hyrel 3D.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With two separate extruders, you can alternate between, for example, T0 and T2. When the head offset from T0 to T2 is stored on head T2, this provides for tool changes without editing any position or flow data.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For gcode details, please see &lt;a href=&quot;https://hyrel3d.com/wiki/index.php/Gcode&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://hyrel3d.com/wiki/index.php/Gcode&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note, this is not specific to DIW (Direct Ink Writing), aka Robocasting. The user just happened to be doing DIW in this case. Tool changes are the same (on Hyrel equipment) for all material deposition methods.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4922" LastEditorUserId="4922" LastEditDate="2024-01-10T20:24:16.953" LastActivityDate="2024-01-10T20:24:16.953" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22927" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21737" CreationDate="2024-01-09T08:53:57.177" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;That’s a cool print for your filament runout sensor. I’m planning on doing this same mod to my Ender 3 V2 in the next week or two as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I’ve done a decent amount of research on how to implement this so hopefully I can answer some of your questions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Wiring&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found this schematic of the V4.2.2 motherboard online.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/l1i4P.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Schematic drawing of the Ender 3 v2 4.2.2 motherboard&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/l1i4P.png&quot; alt=&quot;Schematic drawing of the Ender 3 v2 4.2.2 motherboard&quot; title=&quot;Schematic drawing of the Ender 3 v2 4.2.2 motherboard&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is the pdf download link to the &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/Creality3DPrinting/Ender-3/files/7626788/1623133432-Creality422-Schematic-2.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Ender 3 V2 v4.2.2 schematic&lt;/a&gt; (clicking on the link immediately downloads the pdf).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It looks like for our motherboard (if you also have the V4.2.2), the pinout is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Left pin: Sensor Signal (‘S’)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Middle pin: Ground (’G’)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Right pin: Vcc (‘V’)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TZJF7.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Upclose photo of the Run Out Sensor connection on a 4.2.2 motherboard with the three pins notated as S, G, and V&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TZJF7.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Upclose photo of the Run Out Sensor connection on a 4.2.2 motherboard with the three pins notated as S, G, and V&quot; title=&quot;Upclose photo of the Run Out Sensor connection on a 4.2.2 motherboard with the three pins notated as S, G, and V&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Based on the schematic, the Sensor Signal pin is pulled HIGH. This means to trigger the sensor, you want to connect the Sensor Signal pin to Ground.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The wiring for the switch is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;'C' pin on switch    -&amp;gt;   Sensor signal pin on motherboard&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;'NC' pin on switch   -&amp;gt;   Ground pin on motherboard&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The 'NO' pin on the switch is left unconnected.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the filament runs out, the switch opens and the ‘NC’ pin is connected to the ‘C’ pin. This pulls the Sensor Signal pin on the motherboard to LOW, which is what triggers the printer to pause.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a diagram of how the switch should be wired to the motherboard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GOfQl.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Photo of a roller micro switch with drawn wiring to the Run Out Sensor on a 4.2.2 motherboard showing the 'C' switch pin going to the 'G' sensor pin and the 'NC' switch pin going to the 'S' sensor pin&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GOfQl.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Photo of a roller micro switch with drawn wiring to the Run Out Sensor on a 4.2.2 motherboard showing the 'C' switch pin going to the 'G' sensor pin and the 'NC' switch pin going to the 'S' sensor pin&quot; title=&quot;Photo of a roller micro switch with drawn wiring to the Run Out Sensor on a 4.2.2 motherboard showing the 'C' switch pin going to the 'G' sensor pin and the 'NC' switch pin going to the 'S' sensor pin&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Firmware&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You’ll also need to update the firmware on the motherboard. This isn’t too hard if you’ve never done it before.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I’d recommend installing the JyersUI firmware as detailed in the video:&#xA;&lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/Qv_vVrnkAkI?start=0&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just follow along with the guide to install it. The Jyers firmware also has some really nice UI improvements. Check the video description for links to the firmware.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don’t want to go that route, or you if have the wrong kind of motherboard chip (see video), you can also download the official creality firmware to enable the filament runout sensor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The link to the firmware list is here: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.creality.com/pages/download-ender-3-v2&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Official Ender 3 V2 firmwares&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I’m pretty sure the one you’ll want is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;code&gt;Marlin-2.0.1-HW-4.2.2-mainboard-V1.1.2-Compatible with BLTouch and filament detection&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I didn’t use the official firmware, and there aren’t any release notes (of course), so I’m only 90% sure that's the right one .&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At any rate, it might be wise to check your current firmware and make sure you download that too. That way you can revert your printer to its original firmware, just in case something goes wrong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;JWST connectors&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, the connectors on this board are the very common JST connectors.&#xA;Here is a link to a relatively inexpensive JST connector Kit and crimping tool:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B07RZSSTSJ&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Connector kit w/ crimp tool&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It’s pretty easy to crimp and install the connectors yourself. Here is a quick video on how to do it: &lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/jHfYzrSF4pY?start=0&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you’re good at soldering you could also just hard solder the switch to the board if you don’t want to buy the connectors and crimper. Although I’d recommend against it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hopefully that helps. Good luck :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;P.S. I'll post how mine turns out once I'm finished.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="41100" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2024-01-09T15:13:35.627" LastActivityDate="2024-01-09T15:13:35.627" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22928" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21672" CreationDate="2024-01-09T13:59:48.270" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Short answer: &lt;strong&gt;by calibration&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Expanding on this short answer: &lt;strong&gt;pressure advance&lt;/strong&gt; (or also called &amp;quot;linear advance&amp;quot;) can be used to compensate for the elasticity of the filament and the extruder system. There are at least three sources of elasticity, the filament in a Bowden tube, the compression of the filament itself and the conversion of stepper rotation into torque itself lagging behind.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To counter affect an unwanted effect, you need a measure to change the unwanted effect so that after tuning the unwanted effect is gone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The build-up of pressure in the nozzle (as a result of the springiness of the complete extrusion system causes the end of a line to over-extrude when movement slows or stops. Consequently, a lack of pressure at the beginning (first need to compress the filament) will result in a lack of filament at the nozzle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In order to compensate, we use test prints, not sensors, in which the printer owner/tuner selects the best extruded line based on various settings of the pressure advance ratio. This works well, the extrusion system doesn't generally change over time unless you change the extruder, Bowden tube lengths, etcetera. There is no need for a sensor if you can determine how to counter the effect&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2024-01-09T19:20:55.457" LastActivityDate="2024-01-09T19:20:55.457" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22931" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22876" CreationDate="2024-01-09T20:14:42.413" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;From what I have read and experienced, 16 GB is about as big as they can handle. Yes it can be partitioned down to 16 GB but if you are doing that then just get a 16 GB. I tried a 32GB in my Ender 3 with 4.2.2 and it would not read it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="41106" LastActivityDate="2024-01-09T20:14:42.413" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22932" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19650" CreationDate="2024-01-10T00:08:45.953" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know this is old, but did you check that the little bolt/thumbscrew at the back of the printer didn't get tightened/loosened? It's the one that makes contact with the switch to stop the bed once it reaches max height, in between the threaded vertical rod and smooth vertical rod on the right that the bed &amp;quot;travels&amp;quot; on. That was my issue, took me forever to figure out why my prints were all trying to start a few mm in the air.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="41108" LastActivityDate="2024-01-10T00:08:45.953" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22934" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2024-01-10T14:43:50.360" Score="4" ViewCount="51" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was gifted a Creality Ender-3 and thus have begun my first foray into 3D printing. Things went well for the setup and first prints; I printed some of the 3D files that came with the printer, then some files I downloaded from the internet, and finally some files I made myself in Blender, all without issue. However, the last object I tried printing is causing problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The object is a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.xtalgrafix.com/Spheroform2.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;spheroform tetrahedron&lt;/a&gt;, a type of &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Surface_of_constant_width&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;surface of constant width&lt;/a&gt; (SoCW) that is essentially a triangular pyramid with curved faces and edges. I made the model in Blender, sliced it in Ultimaker Cura, and started the print job. However, about a quarter of the way up the vertical height of the model, the extruder became stuck to the back corner of the tetrahedron.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KVQgn.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Photo of the printer stopped at the back end of a print with the nozzle stuck to the model&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KVQgn.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Photo of the printer stopped at the back end of a print with the nozzle stuck to the model&quot; title=&quot;Photo of the printer stopped at the back end of a print with the nozzle stuck to the model&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wasn't watching at the exact moment it happened, but it seems like the print-head stopped moving horizontally (I'm assuming it stuck to the part, preventing it from moving in the x-axis or y-axis) but continued extruding filament for a few moments before the printer's software detected that it couldn't move the print-head and aborted the print job (building up the little ridge around the extruder nozzle's final position that is visible in the photo).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did some searching online, and following the recommendations I saw, I re-leveled the print bed, did my best to clean the extruder nozzle, and started printing the same file. This time, it worked without issue, so I thought the problem had been solved.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To make the most of a SoCW you need at least three of them, so after the first successful SoCW finished, I immediately started another. Unfortunately, the extruder stuck to the back corner of the tetrahedron again — at a different Z-height than the first time, but in about the same horizontal spot. I re-leveled the bed and cleaned the extruder nozzle once more, but the next attempt also got stuck in the back corner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Out of four total attempts, only one was completed. The other three got stuck at various heights. It seems significant that all the failed attempts got stuck in about the same (X,Y)-position, even though the Z-height was different each time, but I don't know what it means.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Does anyone know what is causing this issue and how to prevent it?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aBE9r.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Photo of the above the model showing where the nozzle was stuck to the print&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aBE9r.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Photo of the above the model showing where the nozzle was stuck to the print&quot; title=&quot;Photo of the above the model showing where the nozzle was stuck to the print&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NR6v8.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Photo at a different angle showing the point at which the nozzle was stuck to the print&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NR6v8.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Photo at a different angle showing the point at which the nozzle was stuck to the print&quot; title=&quot;Photo at a different angle showing the point at which the nozzle was stuck to the print&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="41113" LastEditorUserId="41113" LastEditDate="2024-01-10T20:48:40.350" LastActivityDate="2024-01-10T20:48:40.350" Title="How do I stop the extruder from sticking to the back corner of the part?" Tags="|creality-ender-3|extruder|nozzle|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22935" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2024-01-10T17:40:42.517" Score="1" ViewCount="124" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently bought a &lt;a href=&quot;https://e3d-online.com/products/revo-high-temperature-hotside?variant=41438733041723&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;High-Precision (400 °C) Revo Hotside&lt;/a&gt; with the intention to use it on my upcoming Voron. In the meantime, I wanted to give it a go and use it on my Prusa, if for nothing else, then at least to print some missing Voron parts. Also, it's still in the &amp;quot;hassle-free return&amp;quot; period, so I'd love to test it without replacing the thermistor or altering it in any other way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&amp;quot;Sadly&amp;quot;, PT1000 is not a drop-in replacement for Semitec 104GT thermistor Prusa is using. It operates in a similar resistance range and should be supported by the Einsy Rambo board, but it works with a higher max temperature*, and has a different resistance-temperature function.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was thinking about switching my Prusa to Klipper, but I admit it is a daunting task I don't want to attempt until I have my next printer up and running. So is there a simpler way?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;* PT1000 works up to 400 °C with precision, some more is still safe when 104GT is up to 300 °C.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20803" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2024-01-13T05:06:22.947" LastActivityDate="2024-02-12T05:07:20.833" Title="Can I use PT1000 thermistor on my Prusa mk3s+ without installing Klipper on it?" Tags="|prusa-i3|hotend|thermistor|e3d-revo|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22936" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22897" CreationDate="2024-01-10T19:16:35.053" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think many problems could arise from doing this manually such as missing or incompatible dependencies. As I had to do the same I just tested the following successfully:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Making a backup of the OctoPi configuration (required)&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Login on the OctoPi web ui&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Click settings&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Under OctoPrint (left menu) click on 'Backup &amp;amp; Restore'&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Click 'Create backup now' and when finished download the backup&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Make a backup of the entire SD card (optional)&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can make a full bit-to-bit copy (image) of the SD card as a backup &lt;strong&gt;or use another SD card for testing it first.&lt;/strong&gt; On Windows you can for example download &lt;a href=&quot;https://win32diskimager.org/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Win32DiskImager&lt;/a&gt; and make a full image/backup of the SD card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Flashing OctoPi with the new camera stack&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Download and open &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.raspberrypi.com/software/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Raspberry Pi Imager&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Choose 'Other specific-purpose OS' followed by '3D printing' and 'OctoPi'&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Choose the 'OctoPi (new camera stack)' as shown below&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Insert another SD card for testing or override your current SD card after you've made the backups as described above&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Choose other specific settings if desired such as WiFi et cetera&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Flash to SD card&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lgAHf.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lgAHf.png&quot; alt=&quot;Raspberry Pi Imager&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Restoring the OctoPi configuration&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When finished, place the SD card in the Pi and start it up&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When the Pi started open the Web UI again on the Welcome Wizard click Next&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;On the 'Restore Backup' screen select the backup you've made on the first step and wait for all plugins to install, config to be restored and Pi to restart&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36802" LastActivityDate="2024-01-10T19:16:35.053" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22938" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2024-01-11T15:38:08.320" Score="0" ViewCount="65" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not new to 3D printing, but am not extremely conversant in doing mechanical adjustments on the printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I took the printer down (minimal de-construction), loaded it into a padded box and drove it to my new home when I moved last year to avoid the handling that it would receive from movers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since then, I cannot get the bed to level properly regardless of what I do with the leveling screws.  No matter what I do, the left rear corner is way too high for the nozzle and starts to scrape if I try to move it into place. I've tried every adjustment that I can find/think of other than taking the printer apart and re-building it (which I do not want to do if I can avoid it). I'm using the (often recommended) yellow springs that I bought off of Amazon and have a glass print bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any suggestions how I can level the bed without taking the printer apart?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="41127" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2024-01-11T22:24:44.583" LastActivityDate="2024-03-13T22:07:20.887" Title="Problem leveling printer bed after reassembling after move" Tags="|creality-ender-3|bed-leveling|bed|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22939" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22938" CreationDate="2024-01-11T16:10:38.543" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It may be that the surface the printer is sitting on is not planar. That can deform the frame slightly or cause a soft foot condition. Either of those can result in Y guide rods being non-linear.  The cure, if that's the case, is either adjustable feet or shimming the high foot/feet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="33030" LastEditorUserId="33030" LastEditDate="2024-01-11T18:55:34.843" LastActivityDate="2024-01-11T18:55:34.843" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22940" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="475" CreationDate="2024-01-12T14:04:52.030" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I fixed this problem on our MakerBot replicator yesterday. The extruder got dislodge on a print some time ago and even after re-attaching it, subsequent prints often shifted sideways on the bed unpredictably. I was skeptical that a firmware update was responsible, so I took a look at the carriage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The carriage that the extruder attaches to has a belt that moves it from side to side. On that belt is a plastic clip about 2” long that is supposed to be attached to the extruder (actually, not the extruder itself, but the device the extruder attaches to). It had become dislodged and so the sideways motion was entirely relying on friction from the belt which would inevitably slip. Once I got the belt clipped onto the carriage properly, I was back in business.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="41132" LastActivityDate="2024-01-12T14:04:52.030" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22941" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2024-01-12T16:45:57.237" Score="1" ViewCount="42" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have print problems with my Creality Ender 3 S1 and I have calibrated all axes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Belts both X and Y axex&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Extremes of the X-axis horizontal structure have the same distance to the bottom of the printer&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wheels both the X-axis and Y-axis (wheels under the bed) are correct&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, after I printed the cube the results weren't good enough. Print details:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I have provided the &lt;a href=&quot;https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1hemOMdQCp5A_M_A5_028-5TrXdFdubzt?usp=sharing&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;3mf file&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;PLA&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ender 3 S1&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;0,24 mm (first layer 0,20 mm)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Speed: perimeters 60 mm/s (external perimeters 50 %)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Speed: solid infill 30 mm/s; top solid infill 15 mm/s&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/A4aCF.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Photo of the X side of a calibration cube&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/A4aCF.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Photo of the X side of a calibration cube&quot; title=&quot;Photo of the X side of a calibration cube&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jcJ4j.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Photo of the Y side of a calibration cube&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jcJ4j.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Photo of the Y side of a calibration cube&quot; title=&quot;Photo of the Y side of a calibration cube&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ViTla.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Photo of the Z side of a calibration cube&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ViTla.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Photo of the Z side of a calibration cube&quot; title=&quot;Photo of the Z side of a calibration cube&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="41133" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2024-01-13T05:04:36.603" LastActivityDate="2024-01-13T05:04:36.603" Title="How to print more accurately 3D cube test?" Tags="|creality-ender-3|ender3|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22942" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22935" CreationDate="2024-01-12T20:30:45.993" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's no reason you need Klipper; in principle you could rebuild Marlin (stock or Prusa's version of it; you probably want the latter) reconfigured for a PT1000. However, that's a fair amount of work and chance for something to go wrong if you're not familiar with doing it. Unless you're actually trying to use extrusion temperatures above 280°C or so, you will get no benefit whatsoever from the PT1000. Above that, the PT1000 will give somewhat better PID control (more stable temperature). If you don't care about perfect temperature stability, the stock thermistor will work up to at least 320°C, maybe 330. But to get access to any of these temperatures you will already need custom firmware, since Prusa has the max temp capped well below that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you just want to test the hotend, but don't want higher temperatures, you can just put a standard 100k NTC thermistor like the one you have on the new hotend, and it should work with the Prusa firmware unmodified.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2024-01-12T20:30:45.993" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22943" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2024-01-13T17:48:14.533" Score="1" ViewCount="82" Body="&lt;p&gt;One layer of PETG is not printing correctly&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I’ve successfully been able to print in PETG, and it looks perfect except for a random layer in the middle of the print. It adheres to the bed fine, and the rest of the layers are fine, but one in the middle appears detached and weak. You can see the line in the plastic that goes all the way around. Any idea why?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the second time printing. I thought maybe there was a power issue or something while printing that caused it, but now I have the same effect again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have an Ender 3 Pro with a spider hotend and use Overture PETG. Nozzle at 255 °C and bed at 85 °C (initial layer is 260 °C and 90 °C), no fan, 90 mm/s speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SbPDC.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SbPDC.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NM3X2.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NM3X2.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40458" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2024-01-14T04:31:29.660" LastActivityDate="2024-01-14T04:31:29.660" Title="Poor layer adhesion on only one layer of PETG print" Tags="|adhesion|petg|layer|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22944" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2024-01-13T19:00:18.690" Score="1" ViewCount="52" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to print a 30% version of this &lt;a href=&quot;https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/gadget/high-bypass-engine-nacelle&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;High Bypass Engine Nacelle&lt;/a&gt;, but I'm having some quality issues with the high pressure turbine compression stages.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've uploaded several photos to Imgur &lt;a href=&quot;https://imgur.com/a/JFDbWB0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;, ill include some below:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Hauzw.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Hauzw.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KxV4k.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KxV4k.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iLbLE.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iLbLE.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ktPnN.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ktPnN.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What's odd is that the stators, which are very similar in size and overhangs, seem to print much better. Here's a photo of that:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Wpc3R.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Wpc3R.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QWrO1.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QWrO1.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have printed several retraction tower tests and selected the best values, but it doesn't seem to improve all that much. Whenever I print larger components, they seem to print just fine with very little or no stringing on the surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Filaments tested&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B07HXT63P8&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;HATCHBOX 1.75mm Silk Bronze PLA&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B0BWTFKS5D&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;AMOLEN Silk PLA Filament, Silver Grey&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B0C69HXGWW&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;AMOLEN Silk PLA Filament, Black&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Settings&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ender 3 S1 Pro (running klipper)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Nozzle: 0.4 mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sliced with Cura&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Layer height: 0.2 mm, 0.16 mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Print speed: 50 mm/s, 80 mm/s, 100 mm/s&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Walls: 4&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wall ordering: Inside to Outside (my default), and Outside to Inside&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Top: 3&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bottom: 3&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Infill (doesn't matter, the walls/top/bottom make it 100%)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Retraction:&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Speed: 25 mm/s, 30 mm/s, 35 mm/s&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Distance: 0.5 mm, 0.8 mm, 1 mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Retract on layer change: Yes&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Retraction minimum travel: 1.5 mm, 1 mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Coasting: Disabled&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Temperature:&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Extruder: 190 °C, 200 °C, 210 °C, 215 °C&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bed: 60 °C&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wipe:&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Outer wall: 0.5 mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Infill: 0.1 mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Print thin walls: enabled&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Combing: Not in skin&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure what other settings to share that would help troubleshoot this. If there's more detail that would help, lmk and ill add it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40723" LastActivityDate="2024-01-13T19:00:18.690" Title="How can I reduce stringing on very small parts?" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|pla|retraction|stringing|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22945" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2024-01-13T21:20:01.537" Score="0" ViewCount="27" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a weird problem over here, I'm restoring an FLSUN Kossel Mini (with a RAMPS 1.4 board) and it printed fine for the last two days.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now when I initiate a print job, the extruder motor doesn't push filament into the nozzle ( it retracts filament like it's supposed to, it just doesn't push.) and this only happens during a print job.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I cleaned the nozzle&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Increased/decreased printing temp.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Swapped motor drivers.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Adjusted Z offset.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Reset the motherboard.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Changed acc and jerk values.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;None of these did the trick for me, and when I manually control the extruder motor (from the LCD or Repetier) it pushes the filament without any problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="41144" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2024-01-14T04:33:59.787" LastActivityDate="2024-01-14T04:33:59.787" Title="Extruder motor doesn't pull filament during job only" Tags="|marlin|troubleshooting|extruder|ramps-1.4|underextrusion|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22946" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2024-01-13T23:08:35.380" Score="1" ViewCount="49" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking for fans for my upcoming printer. In each common voltage, 5, 12 and 24 V, I see fans with the same advertised rpm, cfm, static pressure and noise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, if all else is really equal, are there any important reasons to go with one of these voltages over the others?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My PSU will obviously be a 24 V, like most of the recent designs, so there's no obviously problematic step-up converters. Step-downs for fans are included in most of the mainboards and toolhead boards, so I don't think that's an issue either, but maybe there's something I don't know?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20803" LastActivityDate="2024-02-13T16:07:10.837" Title="All else being equal, is there a reason to go with 5, 12 or 24 V fan?" Tags="|diy-3d-printer|fans|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22947" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22946" CreationDate="2024-01-14T08:20:21.943" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Where will the fan be, is it a parts cooling fan for your hot end or for an enclosure?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will this be your main parts cooling fan or an auxiliary one?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, check your main board, it may be a 24 V board, but does it have spare headers for 24 V, 12 V, or 5 V. Check that the Amps match too. You can have a higher amp rating on your main board than your fan without doing any damage, but not vice versa (The device supplying the power must be greater than or equal to the device receiving it).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next, check that your main board has the spare capacity to control the fan and that the fan has a matching mechanism to be controlled. Some fans have a dedicated control wire, some are controlled by the main board varying the power level that is supplied to them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't have a matching control method then your fan will be always on\off and always at 100 % speed. Which may not be desirable for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you have checked these things, narrow down the fans available to you based on these criteria, rather than voltage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Generally speaking (and I mean very generally) the higher the voltage the less &amp;quot;effort&amp;quot; the fan needs to go to to move the same volume of air. So if a 5 V fan and a 24 V fan claim to have the exact same specifications it would usually mean that the 5 V fan is pushing itself hard or the 24 V fan is underperforming.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Parts cooling fans and fans on the hot end are usually fast-moving and small, so they are normally lower voltage fans as they need to go lick a rocket but only to move a very small amount of air a short distance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fans in this case are usually slower moving but much larger, they need to move large volumes of air, so they need a higher voltage because they have to put in more effort (Greater effort = greater voltage requirement).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, if you are offered a choice by your main board, go this way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're not offered a choice, and you only have 24 V headers, then this is the way that your manufacturer intended you to go, and go for that instead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know that this isn't much help, but without knowing more details, such as the model and manufacturer, it's difficult to give more exact advice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="29097" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2024-01-14T14:24:31.700" LastActivityDate="2024-01-14T14:24:31.700" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22951" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21726" CreationDate="2024-01-15T09:59:29.717" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, it is not interchangeable without changing the configuration of the firmware. These sensors do not require you to set the &lt;code&gt;BLTOUCH&lt;/code&gt; directive, so this must be in your configuration:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;//#define BLTOUCH &#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the CR Touch this directive is required.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#define BLTOUCH&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am building the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4661556&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Tiny Touch&lt;/a&gt; an even smaller version of the BFPTouch, in fact it is a derivative! In the last link you find &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.reddit.com/r/ender3v2/comments/nxm865/guide_for_bfptouch_on_ender_3_v2/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;instructions&lt;/a&gt; to configure the probe, which redirects to the setup of the BFPTOUCH.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2024-01-15T09:59:29.717" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22952" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20982" CreationDate="2024-01-15T12:10:24.057" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I fixed this by homing the x axis again after homing all axis in the starting G-code. There might be an  more elegant solution but this works so I'm happy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;code&gt;G28; home all axes   G28 X; home x axis to get to parking position&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="41159" LastActivityDate="2024-01-15T12:10:24.057" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22955" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20982" CreationDate="2024-01-15T22:30:10.137" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is a specific command that instructs the head to park at the predefined position as set in the firmware configuration of your printer is using Marlin firmware. This G-code, &lt;a href=&quot;https://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/G027.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;code&gt;G27&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/a&gt; will position the head at the parking position:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Raise and park the nozzle according to a predefined XY position and Z raise (or minimum height) value.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The parking XY position and Z value are defined by NOZZLE_PARK_POINT. &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;The minimum Z raise is defined by NOZZLE_PARK_Z_RAISE_MIN.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This implies that if you are using bed leveling with a leveling sensor, after &lt;code&gt;G29&lt;/code&gt; or &lt;code&gt;G28&lt;/code&gt; (if you defined &lt;code&gt;ENABLE_LEVELING_AFTER_G28&lt;/code&gt;) in your start G-code you need to call &lt;code&gt;G27&lt;/code&gt; or without a bed leveling sensor, like in the example of the question you need to call &lt;code&gt;G27&lt;/code&gt; directly after &lt;code&gt;G28&lt;/code&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2024-01-15T22:30:10.137" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22956" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2024-01-17T05:47:54.583" Score="1" ViewCount="46" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been trying to print concrete using a 7mm nozzle. The issue I'm facing is my extruder is pushing too much material in the print head and material can't be extruded at the same rate from the nozzle while printing. As a result, more material gets accumulated in the print head and the tube gets disconnected from the print head like this in the picture. I have calibrated the E-steps, and also reduced the flow rate. Can anyone suggest me what settings I need to adjust to fix this issue? Thanks.&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qaIls.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qaIls.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Zjsmw.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Zjsmw.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="41148" LastActivityDate="2024-01-17T05:47:54.583" Title="Extruder feeding excessive material" Tags="|extruder|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22957" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22889" CreationDate="2024-01-17T13:18:36.927" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/22889/my-ender-3-malfunctions-with-touchscreen/22957#comment41201_22889&quot;&gt;Agarza was right&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Have you checked to see if the screen itself needs a firmware update?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I inserted the SD card into the wrong place. I finally got it to work by inserting the SD card with the DWIN folder into the touchscreen itself (after unscrewing the housing) and successfully flashed the working version of the firmware.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="41026" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2024-01-17T15:26:09.480" LastActivityDate="2024-01-17T15:26:09.480" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22958" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2024-01-17T15:20:25.867" Score="1" ViewCount="190" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been messing with my Y-axis endstop since it keeps being triggered when not pressed but otherwise, it is working as intended. I have tried to use &lt;code&gt;!&lt;/code&gt; to reverse the state but it does not. I scoured all over the internet and documentation. All I've read just says &amp;quot;Use &lt;code&gt;!&lt;/code&gt; to reverse the state&amp;quot; but that has not helped. I have also tried changing if it's pull-up &lt;code&gt;^&lt;/code&gt; or not to no avail.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Am I missing something obvious here or did I just bork it? I have included the &lt;code&gt;printer.cfg&lt;/code&gt; for reference. The printer is an Ender 3 Max Neo so ignore the references to the V2 Neo.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;# This file contains pin mappings for the stock 2022 Creality Ender 3&#xA;# V2 Neo. To use this config, during &amp;quot;make menuconfig&amp;quot; select the&#xA;# STM32F103 with a &amp;quot;28KiB bootloader&amp;quot; and serial (on USART1 PA10/PA9)&#xA;# communication.&#xA;&#xA;# If you prefer a direct serial connection, in &amp;quot;make menuconfig&amp;quot;&#xA;# select &amp;quot;Enable extra low-level configuration options&amp;quot; and select&#xA;# serial (on USART3 PB11/PB10), which is broken out on the 10 pin IDC&#xA;# cable used for the LCD module as follows:&#xA;# 3: Tx, 4: Rx, 9: GND, 10: VCC&#xA;&#xA;# Flash this firmware by copying &amp;quot;out/klipper.bin&amp;quot; to a SD card and&#xA;# turning on the printer with the card inserted. The firmware&#xA;# filename must end in &amp;quot;.bin&amp;quot; and must not match the last filename&#xA;# that was flashed.&#xA;&#xA;# This also works for the GD32F303 based Creality 4.2.2 board.&#xA;&#xA;# See docs/Config_Reference.md for a description of parameters.&#xA;&#xA;[include mainsail.cfg]&#xA;[include Macros.cfg]&#xA;&#xA;[stepper_x]&#xA;step_pin: PC2&#xA;dir_pin: PB9&#xA;enable_pin: !PC3&#xA;microsteps: 16&#xA;rotation_distance: 40&#xA;endstop_pin: ^PA5&#xA;position_endstop: 0&#xA;position_max: 310&#xA;homing_speed: 80&#xA;second_homing_speed: 20&#xA;&#xA;[stepper_y]&#xA;step_pin: PB8&#xA;dir_pin: PB7&#xA;enable_pin: !PC3&#xA;microsteps: 16&#xA;rotation_distance: 40&#xA;endstop_pin: ^!PA6&#xA;position_endstop: 0&#xA;position_max: 315&#xA;homing_speed: 80&#xA;second_homing_speed: 20&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;[stepper_z]&#xA;step_pin: PB6&#xA;dir_pin: !PB5&#xA;enable_pin: !PC3&#xA;microsteps: 16&#xA;rotation_distance: 8&#xA;endstop_pin: probe:z_virtual_endstop&#xA;position_min: -5&#xA;position_max: 320&#xA;homing_speed: 4&#xA;second_homing_speed: 1&#xA;homing_retract_dist: 2.0&#xA;&#xA;[extruder]&#xA;max_extrude_only_distance: 120.0&#xA;step_pin: PB4&#xA;dir_pin: PB3&#xA;enable_pin: !PC3&#xA;microsteps: 16&#xA;rotation_distance: 34.406&#xA;nozzle_diameter: 0.400&#xA;filament_diameter: 1.750&#xA;heater_pin: PA1&#xA;sensor_type: EPCOS 100K B57560G104F&#xA;sensor_pin: PC5&#xA;min_temp: 0&#xA;max_temp: 250&#xA;control: watermark&#xA;&#xA;[heater_bed]&#xA;heater_pin: PA2&#xA;sensor_type: EPCOS 100K B57560G104F&#xA;sensor_pin: PC4&#xA;control: watermark&#xA;min_temp: 0&#xA;max_temp: 130&#xA;&#xA;[fan]&#xA;pin: PA0&#xA;&#xA;[mcu]&#xA;serial: /dev/serial/by-id/usb-1a86_USB_Serial-if00-port0&#xA;restart_method: command&#xA;&#xA;[printer]&#xA;kinematics: cartesian&#xA;max_velocity: 300&#xA;max_accel: 5000&#xA;max_z_velocity: 5&#xA;square_corner_velocity: 5.0&#xA;max_z_accel: 100&#xA;&#xA;[bltouch]&#xA;sensor_pin: PROBE_IN&#xA;control_pin: PROBE_OUT&#xA;x_offset: -37.75&#xA;y_offset: -14.0&#xA;z_offset: 0&#xA;speed: 20&#xA;samples: 1&#xA;sample_retract_dist: 8.0&#xA;&#xA;[safe_z_home]&#xA;home_xy_position: 192.75,171.5&#xA;speed: 150&#xA;z_hop: 10&#xA;z_hop_speed: 10&#xA;&#xA;[bed_mesh]&#xA;speed: 120&#xA;mesh_min: 10,10         # Need to handle head distance with cr-touch (bl_touch)&#xA;mesh_max: 300,300       # Max probe range&#xA;probe_count: 5,5&#xA;fade_start: 1&#xA;fade_end: 10&#xA;fade_target: 0&#xA;algorithm: bicubic&#xA;&#xA;[bed_screws]&#xA;screw1:30,25&#xA;screw1_name:1&#xA;screw2:200,25&#xA;screw2_name:2&#xA;screw3:200,195&#xA;screw3_name:3&#xA;screw4:30,195&#xA;screw4_name:4&#xA;&#xA;[screws_tilt_adjust]&#xA;screw1: 67, 42&#xA;screw1_name: front left screw&#xA;screw2: 237.60, 42&#xA;screw2_name: front right screw&#xA;screw3: 237.60, 212&#xA;screw3_name: rear right screw&#xA;screw4: 67.60, 212&#xA;screw4_name: rear left screw&#xA;horizontal_move_z: 10&#xA;speed: 200&#xA;screw_thread: CW-M4 # Use CW for Clockwise and CCW for Counter Clockwise&#xA;&#xA;# [display]&#xA;# The Ender 3 v2 Neo's 4.3&amp;quot; LCD display is not supported by klipper&#xA;&#xA;[filament_switch_sensor spool]&#xA;pause_on_runout: True&#xA;switch_pin: ^!PA6&#xA;&#xA;[output_pin beeper]&#xA;pin: PB13&#xA; &lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;```&lt;/span&gt;&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="41191" LastEditorUserId="36802" LastEditDate="2024-01-22T14:50:02.473" LastActivityDate="2024-01-22T14:50:02.473" Title="How do I reverse the state of an endstop in Klipper other than using an exclamation mark?" Tags="|creality-ender-3|endstop|klipper|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22959" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21083" CreationDate="2024-01-17T18:33:04.667" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Looks like this is a bug when using &lt;strong&gt;Ultimaker Cura&lt;/strong&gt; as your slicer. Try using &lt;strong&gt;PrusaSlicer&lt;/strong&gt; instead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="41194" LastActivityDate="2024-01-17T18:33:04.667" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22963" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2024-01-20T08:37:23.933" Score="1" ViewCount="67" Body="&lt;p&gt;At office we have a hidden WiFi network. I'm not able to connect our Dremel 3D45 to this network, since when you tap on &amp;quot;WiFi&amp;quot; it scans for the available networks and it does not add the &amp;quot;Hidden network&amp;quot; item as usual.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also tried to make the network visible for a while. Then I connected the 3D printer, but as soon as the network hides the SSID (even without bringing down the AP) the printer disconnects immediately.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Was anyone able to connect to a hidden network on Dremel 3D45?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately, I cannot ask the IT to change this settings permanently.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21979" LastEditorUserId="36802" LastEditDate="2024-01-22T11:41:37.927" LastActivityDate="2024-01-22T11:41:37.927" Title="How to connect Dremel 3D45 to a hidden WiFi network?" Tags="|dremel-3d45|wi-fi|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22965" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22968" CreationDate="2024-01-20T11:20:03.007" Score="3" ViewCount="552" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've bought an additional second hand printer and I noticed that the lead screw has been bent. I did not have any issues so far with prints that are only a few cm tall.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I filmed it from the top, next to a ruler, as shown below and put a grid over it for reference. I think it should be replaced. How bad is this? When should it actually be replaced?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qlbA6.gif&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qlbA6.gif&quot; alt=&quot;rotating bended leadscrew view from above&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36802" LastEditorUserId="12956" LastEditDate="2024-01-21T17:22:25.807" LastActivityDate="2024-01-21T22:03:10.680" Title="When is a leadscrew too bent and should be replaced?" Tags="|lead-screw|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22966" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22848" CreationDate="2024-01-20T12:15:13.947" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It makes a huge difference if you want to measure the internal nozzle diameter or the &amp;quot;typical&amp;quot; wear when using an abrasive filament. CNCKitchen has a nice article,&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.cnckitchen.com/blog/how-much-abrasive-filaments-damage-your-nozzle&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;How Much Abrasive Filaments Damage Your Nozzle!&lt;/a&gt;, about the typical wear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;TLDR is that most of the wear comes from moving your nozzle through parts of the last layer during travel moves. This way, your nozzle tip gets shorter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If that's what you want to measure, you might use your bed-leveling sensor for that. If your leveling sensor is precise enough, you could measure the distance to the bed with your BLTouch or other sensor. When your nozzle is new, you can take a second measurement by &amp;quot;pressing&amp;quot; the nozzle into the bed and detecting when motor current spikes, or by lowering it to a conductive edge of your print bed. This way, you can save the distance of your bed leveling sensor in relation to your nozzle tip. If your nozzle wears out, it should be shorter, and you should see that you can move your hotend lower before closing an electrical circuit or before your stepper driver uses an increased current (because it pushes into the bed).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I need to mention that this is just an idea and I have never seen a solution like this. Doing this might pose problems I didn't think of.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you mentioned in possibility 3, a loose hotend screw can make the measurement of the distance difficult. Maybe you can remove that error by probing against a metal that has the inverted shape of a nozzle (just an inverted cone) which shouldn't change with nozzle wear, and then probe against a flat surface afterward and examine the difference. For this to work, you would of course have to clean the nozzle before any measurement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="41220" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2024-01-20T15:10:15.483" LastActivityDate="2024-01-20T15:10:15.483" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22967" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5433" CreationDate="2024-01-20T15:16:08.107" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;CAD visualization like mentioned in &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/5436/&quot;&gt;this answer&lt;/a&gt; is the safest route. If you are not equiped with CAD skills you could do some manual calculations as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You already confirmed that you need 20 mm for the coupler, and you have to include space for the distance between the coupler and the trapezoid nut, this should be added to the travel length you want.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can buy the screws in virtually any size you want (many far Eastern vendors, you can ask whatever length you want). You could even buy oversized and grind them to the final desired length.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I once bought oversized screws but was a little too lazy to grind them down, so they are still sticking out, no problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iA7vf.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iA7vf.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2024-01-20T15:16:08.107" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22968" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22965" CreationDate="2024-01-20T15:34:19.387" Score="7" Body="&lt;h2&gt;It's too bent when it starts to cause issues.&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Really, it is that simple. If your prints looks good, you don't hear any screeching sounds, your motors are not losing steps, then you are good and just leave them be. Keep them clean, keep them lubed, and enjoy your hobby.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More specific to your situation, good set of lead screws, with guaranteed straightness and pitch consistency, can cost more than an used Ender 3. Decent &amp;quot;3D printing quality&amp;quot; set will cost less, but still a significant percentage of your machine worth. Enders are good bang for your buck, not because they have a lot of bang, but because how little is the buck. They are designed to be built with imprecise parts, and to still give acceptable quality. You can replace screws, replace V wheels with linear rails or rods and ball bearing, you can add input shaping by changing firmware to Klipper,  upgrade hotend, add enclosure, replace extruder with something lighter, and so on. But why?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By the time you will find and &amp;quot;fix&amp;quot; all the quirks of your Ender, you will spend enough to build Voron or RatRig, or to buy one of the Bambu Labs printers or Prusa kits. And that's what I'd do, but if you prefer to tinker, if that's your hobby, go for it. Just remember, it doesn't make economical sense.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To reiterate, if it works acceptably, don't fix it. Unless it's for fun.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20803" LastEditorUserId="20803" LastEditDate="2024-01-20T15:49:18.680" LastActivityDate="2024-01-20T15:49:18.680" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22969" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2024-01-20T21:41:22.197" Score="-1" ViewCount="33" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have two 3D printers which both have filament feeder tubes that run from the extruder to the nozzle, as usual. But both feeder tubes are very opaque and it is very difficult if not impossible to see where a break is when the filament breaks inside the tube. My question is why aren't the feeder tubes made completely clear, so that one can get a good look at a break and its location. This would be helpful when hot swapping a new filament into the tube. And if there is no reason for the tubes to be opaque, could I change out the opaque tubes and replace them with common clear tubes of my own, or are these tubes special in some way?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="41224" LastActivityDate="2024-01-22T18:19:03.893" Title="Extruder feed tube" Tags="|extruder|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22970" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22965" CreationDate="2024-01-20T23:36:22.230" Score="3" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Cause and effect&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bent screws can cause an effect known as Z-wobble. But, to mitigate this, the non-driven side of the lead screw is left unconstrained. This is intentionally designed as such.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This means that as long as the linear guide (being V-slot with rollers, linear shafts or linear rails) are sufficiently guiding the carriage, a little bent screw would not cause too much problems in the print result.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that the animated gif shows the end displacement, this exaggerates the actual displacement experienced by the lead screw nut.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When is a leadscrew too bent and should be replaced?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;If it causes quality issues in your prints.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;E.g.:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/94dXC.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/94dXC.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Mitigation&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Buying new, straight leadscrews. Usually, the more straight the more expensive, the lead screws from the far East range from acceptable to unusable. Ball screws are much more precise, but also cost more, especially the ground screws.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some people straighten the lead screws, there are videos to be found how you do that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But, note that there is an option &lt;strong&gt;not to replace the screws&lt;/strong&gt;!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;E.g., to completely remove any wobble of the lead screw, you can use something called an &lt;strong&gt;Oldham coupler&lt;/strong&gt; to &lt;strong&gt;decouple the X-Y movement from the Z movement&lt;/strong&gt;. For Creality Ender printers, there are specific couplers to order to install so that you will not need to buy new lead screws.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Custom printer designed Oldham couplers look similar to:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XOB30.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XOB30.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are also printable versions that work very well, in fact I designed and used my own, inspired by &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2910524&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this design&lt;/a&gt;:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rcqdn.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rcqdn.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2024-01-21T22:03:10.680" LastActivityDate="2024-01-21T22:03:10.680" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22971" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2024-01-21T17:44:49.373" Score="1" ViewCount="26" Body="&lt;p&gt;In addition to this question: &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/q/22851/36802&quot;&gt;Is there a open-source pretrained TensorFlow Lite model for failed print and spaghetti detection?&lt;/a&gt; And in preparation of training a lightweight (TensorFlow Lite) model myself, perhaps labeling things with &lt;a href=&quot;https://segment-anything.com/demo&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Meta's Segment Anything (SAM)&lt;/a&gt;. Is there an open, perhaps crowd-sourced dataset of visual (image or video) data of failed and succesful prints?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Similar to, for example &lt;a href=&quot;https://commonvoice.mozilla.org/en/datasets&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Mozilla Common Voice&lt;/a&gt; for voice recognition datasets,  &lt;a href=&quot;https://commoncrawl.org/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Common Crawl&lt;/a&gt; for natural language processing (NLP), and &lt;a href=&quot;https://storage.googleapis.com/openimages/web/index.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Open Images&lt;/a&gt; for computer vision (CV).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would like to contribute to this dataset as well as use it for training an open source model that can run on efficient TPU's like &lt;a href=&quot;https://coral.ai/products/accelerator/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Coral AI&lt;/a&gt; for Raspberry Pi, for the purpose of Spaghetti detection, empty bed detection and perhaps for other print defects.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36802" LastActivityDate="2024-01-21T17:44:49.373" Title="Is there an open, perhaps crowd-sourced dataset of visual (image or video) data of failed and succesful prints?" Tags="|camera|machine-learning|computer-vision|spaghetti-detector|artificial-intelligence|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22972" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2024-01-21T20:32:53.713" Score="0" ViewCount="29" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am searching for a spaghetti detector that can pause my printer when spaghetti is detected, especially one that does not limit the framerate and resolution of my cameras, like Obico does. That is basically the reason I don't use Obico because it makes my cameras almost unusable for other purposes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, I rather want a self hosted option without subscription per printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36802" LastEditorUserId="36802" LastEditDate="2024-01-26T07:37:00.893" LastActivityDate="2024-01-26T07:37:00.893" Title="Is there a spaghetti detector available that doesn't limit the cameras framerate and resolution?" Tags="|camera|spaghetti-detector|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22973" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22974" CreationDate="2024-01-21T21:24:04.473" Score="1" ViewCount="199" Body="&lt;p&gt;I already switched my standard 0.4 mm nozzle to a standard 0.6 mm nozzle with a huge printing time reduction without losing much detail. I also would like to try using Core Heating Technology (CHT) 0.6 mm nozzle instead, to be able to increase printing speeds and reduce printing time even more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.cnckitchen.com/blog/bondtech-cht-high-flow-nozzle-reviewed&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;CNC Kitchen&lt;/a&gt; tested the performance with the following results:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YZ2Xo.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YZ2Xo.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Extrusion Performance 0.6 mm V6 vs CHT nozzle vs Volcano&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found some E3DV6 CHT nozzles, do they fit on a stock Ender 3 V2 hotend or do I need a specific E3D hotend for that? Or since I don't want to upgrade my hotend, are there MK8 CHT nozzles, or are the sizes the same?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36802" LastEditorUserId="36802" LastEditDate="2024-01-22T08:48:31.803" LastActivityDate="2024-01-23T22:26:06.457" Title="Are there any Core Heating Technology (CHT) nozzles available for a stock Ender 3 V2 hotend?" Tags="|nozzle|speed|e3d-v6|cht|mk8|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22974" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22973" CreationDate="2024-01-21T22:15:46.370" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;To answer the main question, yes there are, the typical Chinese market places are flooded with these nozzles nowadays, these are less well manufactured than the original BondTech CHT MK8 (coated) nozzles you can find in decent 3D printer shops.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Simply search for &amp;quot;CHT MK8 nozzle&amp;quot; and you get a list to order from in various sizes, including the requested 0.6 mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Image of a typical cloned MK8 CHT nozzle:&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XnHfJm.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XnHfJm.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Image of an original E3D v6 CHT nozzle:&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YLizYm.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YLizYm.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do note the quality differences, the original are superior machines apposed to the clones, look at the pattern of the inner 3 bore holes, the original is much closer together so that the filament flows directly into the 3 holes (almost 1 big hole in fact) whereas for the clones the 3 bore holes are apart causing the filament to hit a wall (center piece) and needs to be diverted to the outer 3 holes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;... E3DV6 CHT nozzles, do they fit on a stock Ender 3 V2 hotend or do I need a specific E3D hotend...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looking at the dimensions below, you see that the threads are identical (both M6x1), but the overall length is 0.5 mm shorter for the E3D v6, so this should match. &lt;a href=&quot;https://filament2print.com/gb/blog/25_compatibility-nozzle-v6-mk8-volcano.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;This reference&lt;/a&gt; tells us that the nozzles are interchangeable:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the [Creality] MK8 nozzle, it &lt;em&gt;[red. i.e. the E3D v6 nozzle]&lt;/em&gt; will be compatible with 3D printers that use [Creality] MK8 hotends. [Creality] MK8 nozzles are incompatible with the V6 ecosystem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The E3D v6 will work on the MK8 because they are longer from the threads to the base of the hexagonal nut, therefore MK8 will not work in an E3D v6 hotend, they are too short. You cannot screw in the MK8 far enough into E3D v6 far enough, the base of the hexagonal nut will touch the heater block and leaves a space between the nozzle and the heat break. If these aren't sufficiently tightened together, the heat block may leak and the cavity is detrimental for retraction performance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Information on the dimension of the different nozzles&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Creality MK8 dimensions:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LFaCy.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LFaCy.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;E3D v6 dimensions:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QuSbB.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QuSbB.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2024-01-23T22:26:06.457" LastActivityDate="2024-01-23T22:26:06.457" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22975" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22973" CreationDate="2024-01-21T23:32:53.127" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/9912/what-is-the-functional-difference-between-an-e3d-style-nozzle-makerbot-mk8-and/9913#9913&quot;&gt;Creality style &amp;quot;MK8&amp;quot; hotends (including the Ender 3's) can use &amp;quot;MK8&amp;quot; &lt;strong&gt;or&lt;/strong&gt; e3D V6 nozzles.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bondtech sells genuine CHT in both Creality MK8 and e3D V6 forms. If you prefer matching what your machine has exactly, you can buy that, but it will only work on the Creality-style &amp;quot;MK8&amp;quot; hotends, not anything else. If you buy the e3D V6 version, it will work on your Ender's Creality MK8 hotend and any hotend that's compatible with e3D V6 nozzles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've always bought the e3D V6 version for my Ender and it's worked fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2024-01-22T14:33:48.797" LastActivityDate="2024-01-22T14:33:48.797" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22976" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21600" CreationDate="2024-01-22T11:01:55.183" Score="1" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Mostly a Relative measure&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming you have a well-known, well-printing nozzle and filament combination, then you can print a &lt;strong&gt;benchmark&lt;/strong&gt; print, change one factor and then test with altered settings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of the most ubiquitous prints for a benchmark is &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/18604/why-is-a-3d-benchy-considered-a-good-test-print-for-fdm-printers&quot;&gt;Benchy&lt;/a&gt;. Benchy isn't so much a calibration test, but has all aspects you need in a benchmark. Overhangs, rounded corners, sharp corners, small diameter parts and sharp corners followed by longer stretches: it's all in there! and with those one gets a decent idea of print quality for other parts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another typical benchmark test is a cube, which has the sharp corners and stretches.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on which factors you switched, you get a resulting &lt;strong&gt;relative&lt;/strong&gt; quality comparison between the two prints. But you won't get a &lt;em&gt;measurable&lt;/em&gt; metric, unless you invent a score based on artifacts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Filament factors&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Among the factors that would show up based on bad filament. The three most noticeable I can think of are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;hissing, bubbling &amp;amp; gaps can indicate wet filament&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;stretches of random underextrusion and motor skipping can indicate uneven filament diameter&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;sudden stalling of the extruder and no extrusion indicates a bulge on the filament&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Nozzle factors&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Nozzle problems generally are systemic and would show up on the whole print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;clogs from bad machining result in systematic underextrusion or no extrusion at all&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;too large a nozzle shows in a larger print&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;too small a nozzle shows in bad wall-to-wall and inter-layer adhesion and extruder skipping&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastActivityDate="2024-01-22T11:01:55.183" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22977" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2024-01-22T17:21:59.513" Score="0" ViewCount="27" Body="&lt;p&gt;Given that the main board gets warm, potentially wearing out the electronics, how do I check the 'health' of a main board without having a thermal camera?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As I understand it could be most easily spotted using a thermal camera are there other ways of checking the 'health' or 'safety' of the main board?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36802" LastActivityDate="2024-01-22T17:21:59.513" Title="How to check the 'health' of the main board without a thermal camera?" Tags="|creality-ender-3|electronics|safety|maintenance|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22978" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22969" CreationDate="2024-01-22T18:19:03.893" Score="0" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Fully clear Bowden tubes are not availeable.&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bowden Tubes are made from PTFE or similar, very low-friction material. PTFE is a milky white in its natural state. You can not make it fully transparent and the Ultimaker Bowden tubes are about as transparent as you can get.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The choice of low-friction material is relevant. As long as you don't use transparent filament in them, one can see the filament through un-colored PTFE well enough to see the position.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some fully opaque Bowden tubes have an even lower friction than normal PTFE, which can make printing more steady, or allow printing materials that normal PTFE might stick to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastActivityDate="2024-01-22T18:19:03.893" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22979" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23036" CreationDate="2024-01-22T19:47:24.187" Score="0" ViewCount="94" Body="&lt;p&gt;I noticed when scanning objects using photogrammetry or the AI-based Neural Radiance Field (NeRF) in apps such as Kiri Engine that the original size is not retained in the object.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I actually retain the original size, or set the proper sizes when or after scanning objects like that? So that, when 3D printed it is the same size as the original?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36802" LastEditorUserId="36802" LastEditDate="2024-02-01T12:42:24.197" LastActivityDate="2024-02-02T09:07:55.773" Title="How to set or retain original object size in photogrammetry scans with apps such as Kiri Engine?" Tags="|cad|scanning|artificial-intelligence|photogrammetry|nerf|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22980" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22983" CreationDate="2024-01-23T05:59:15.687" Score="1" ViewCount="82" Body="&lt;p&gt;My son is printing a simple block with a small (2 mm high) bump on top - see image below of the cross section. The left shows the 3D model and the right shows where the plastic actually prints, using a grid infill at around 10 %, with a top height of 1.6 mm&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qrst7.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Grapic of a block with a square bump on top; a cross section of the block is next to the first&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qrst7.png&quot; alt=&quot;Grapic of a block with a square bump on top; a cross section of the block is next to the first&quot; title=&quot;Grapic of a block with a square bump on top; a cross section of the block is next to the first&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you can see, this is very weak, and the bump very easily snaps off, as it has very little plastic securing it to the layer below. When we increase the top/bottom thickness (in Creality Cloud) to 4 mm this issue goes away, and the bumps are well connected. But then the print takes a very long time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Is this the expected behavior of a slicer? Why does it not add material to firmly connect the bump to what is beneath it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;How exactly is the &amp;quot;top thickness&amp;quot; setting applied? E.g. if it's set to 2 mm, does that only apply to the layers comprising the topmost 2 mm of the model, or does it stipulate that there must be 2 mm of plastic at the 'top' of the model at all X, Y coordinates?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Is there a way to set the top thickness separately from the bottom thickness in Creality Cloud?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="41238" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2024-02-22T16:58:46.047" LastActivityDate="2024-02-22T16:58:46.047" Title="Effect of top thickness on print with bumps on top" Tags="|slicing|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22981" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22980" CreationDate="2024-01-23T10:47:14.040" Score="4" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Is it expected?&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So you want to print a block with nubs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hpxb7.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hpxb7.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Putting it into the slicer, and looking at the first layer of the top, you will see that there is a an empty hole that has the diameter of the nub's outer diameter minus the wall thickness, where only the infill is. A little bit further up, one layer over the top layer, it's easy to see that the whole nub is resting on just its wall, which is filled under it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GuGQF.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GuGQF.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/j3Xii.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/j3Xii.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This means, the contact area between the nub and block is very limited: it's only the walls, and a little bit of squishy infill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;What are top layers?&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The top layers are a number of layers that are &lt;strong&gt;directly&lt;/strong&gt; under any surface that is defined as having a normal vector that is pointing &amp;quot;up&amp;quot;. In our example, there are two: the circle from the nub, and the block without that circle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Why does it work with super thick top layers?&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remember what I said earlier about contact area of the nub to the nub? If the nub is &lt;em&gt;lower&lt;/em&gt; than the height of the number of top layers specified, the whole nub is solid, and any top layers that are still remaining get resolved to completing the top layer of the block. From the bottom there still is a bore, but the interface between the nub and the block is over the full area of the print. As adhesion goes with the contact area, that means the nub is more resiliant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But as you print much more plastic, you also print much longer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MZmBz.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MZmBz.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qe05t.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qe05t.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Is there another way?&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In some slicers, you can modify the print behavior in specific parts of the print &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6522&quot;&gt;and define a different infill.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One such example is &lt;a href=&quot;https://support.makerbot.com/s/article/1667417981430&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Ultimaker Cura&lt;/a&gt;, you could insert a (floating) cube at the interface between the block and nub, intersecting both for at least two layers, and declare that cube a print-setting modifier. Then you declare that cube to be printed with 100% infill, and you get the large interface area between the two parts and at the same time keep more of the model hollow than with many more top layers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2024-01-24T13:34:09.447" LastActivityDate="2024-01-24T13:34:09.447" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22983" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22980" CreationDate="2024-01-23T16:26:43.457" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Modern versions of Cura have a feature called &amp;quot;skin edge support thickness&amp;quot; which will build extra perimeter-like layers under the edge of your &amp;quot;bump&amp;quot; down into the infill area, making it attach much better. I believe it defaults to on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your problem is probably that &amp;quot;Creality Cloud&amp;quot; is based on an ancient fork of Cura and does not do this, but you could check and see if they have anything similar available. The right solution, though, is to use real up-to-date slicing software like recent Cura (5.x at the time of this writing; I believe the feature was introduced near the end of the 4.x series), PrusaSlicer, or anything but the junk your printer vendor ships (or doesn't even ship but expects you to interface with via the cloud?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2024-01-23T16:26:43.457" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22986" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23009" CreationDate="2024-01-24T02:07:53.767" Score="1" ViewCount="62" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been trying to print fiber-filled nylons (Polymaker PA6GF and Taulman PA CF) on my Prusa i3 MK3S+ with a steel E3D 0.4 mm nozzle at a reasonable speed. I print at 290 °C for the Polymaker and 265 °C for the Taulman. This is at the upper end of the specified print temperature range. I can only print up to 25 mm/s before the extruder gears slip and never regain traction. They are tightened pretty much all the way (not that it makes much of a difference). Can the print speed be improved somehow without moving to a larger nozzle, or is this the limit? I was thinking a bimetal nozzle or maybe even a volcano-length nozzle with nuts might improve the viscosity. I would like to get up to maybe 50 mm/s.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28896" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2024-01-24T04:26:30.790" LastActivityDate="2024-01-28T06:46:22.517" Title="How can I improve print speed with carbon fiber nylon and an 0.4 mm nozzle?" Tags="|extrusion|nozzle|speed|nylon|carbon|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22987" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21698" CreationDate="2024-01-24T08:58:26.800" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I’ll add from my experience: for printing with composite materials, when using a tungsten carbide nozzle, if screwed into an aluminum hotblock (even when screwed hot), the nozzle quickly unwinds and then plastic leaks. In the case of a copper hotblock, a similar effect is not observed (apparently, this is explained by different thermal expansion of the materials).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="41251" LastActivityDate="2024-01-24T08:58:26.800" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22988" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22994" CreationDate="2024-01-24T14:08:34.890" Score="2" ViewCount="77" Body="&lt;p&gt;I drew this object by myself using Blender:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xHma4.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xHma4.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Importing the STL in Cura v5.3.1 under Ubuntu 23.10 I'm able to slice it for a Sovol SV04 printer, but if I select the Dremel 3D45 printer it fails:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/k5Wo3.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/k5Wo3.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't see any &amp;quot;red&amp;quot; spot on the model that would tell me it's damaged.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What could prevent the slicing changing the model of the printer?&#xA;How to understand why it cannot slice and how to fix then?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21979" LastEditorUserId="21979" LastEditDate="2024-01-24T14:51:52.580" LastActivityDate="2024-01-26T09:52:45.220" Title="Why Cura cannot slice this object?" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|slicing|dremel-3d45|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22990" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21317" CreationDate="2024-01-24T23:35:18.563" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have had this problem ever since I have had the sonic pad, I found that I just go straight back to print &amp;amp; start print again , it just restarts where it stopped.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="41260" LastActivityDate="2024-01-24T23:35:18.563" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22993" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22995" CreationDate="2024-01-26T07:46:27.007" Score="0" ViewCount="245" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is it possible to laser engrave an object that was 3D printed with PLA or will the structure of the whole object simply melt and fail?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How does PLA behave when being engraved? Does it require special treatment of the PLA first or is, for example, more infill required?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36802" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2024-01-26T10:53:59.390" LastActivityDate="2024-01-26T10:55:32.083" Title="Can a PLA print be laser engraved?" Tags="|pla|post-processing|infill|laser|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22994" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22988" CreationDate="2024-01-26T09:52:45.220" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;While without the files it's a guessing game, we can make an educated guess: the most frequent and likely culprit for this sort of faults is the model not being a manifold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most likely you've created several objects in Blender, and visually they comprise the shape you want, but internally they intersect, creating a lot of unnecessary internal geometry under the surface, and Cura fails to deduce what parts of the geometry are the actual &amp;quot;skin&amp;quot; of the object.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, if your shape is composed of multiple objects, use the Boolean Union modifier, to merge them into a single object. Besides that, install &amp;quot;3D Printing Toolbox&amp;quot; add-on in Blender, find it in the sidebar tabs, and use the &amp;quot;Make Manifold&amp;quot; option, and inspect your shape to make sure it worked correctly and removed everything &amp;quot;under the surface&amp;quot;, leaving only hollow skin. If it failed, you may have to do that manually.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2206" LastActivityDate="2024-01-26T09:52:45.220" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22995" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22993" CreationDate="2024-01-26T10:27:05.890" Score="2" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Yes, it is possible&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Jered Adams shared, &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/UL5HcOn0Jtw&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;in a Youtube Video from 2023&lt;/a&gt;, that he could, in fact, engrave prints with a laser, and his method. The problems he encountered were mostly related to getting good reference points and affixing the part. He did use a large industrial-size machine with a 40 W CO&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt; laser module. For the positioning, he used a printed block of known height to adjust the laser module. After making an initial high-power pass with air assist, he added powder-coat paints to the depth to make the engraving easier to see and turned off the air.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;During first engraving with 12 %, notice the thin white smoke at the center where the laser impacts, getting pulled away by the air assist. The engraving itself is visible as a slightly different color.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vBSEB.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vBSEB.png&quot; alt=&quot;Laser during engraving, visible smoke trail&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RkE7D.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RkE7D.png&quot; alt=&quot;later during engraving, better visibility of the engraving due to angle&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After adding the powder and burning it in with a lower power setting (9 %), the result is very legible:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XlgBI.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XlgBI.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;engraved and assembled part&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Power settings&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mr. Adams used 12 % power on the initial pass and 9 % on the &amp;quot;inking&amp;quot; pass. Taking his 40 W Diode as a base, that'd correspond to 4.8 W and 3.6 W respectively, so could be done with a 5 W laser module.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do note that the initial pass power could also depend on the color of the laser and the exact composition of your polymer. This is because some colors and materials absorb wavelengths from the laser differently, so it is hard to say for sure the same setting will work for all colors the same.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Print settings&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The engraving, with the right settings, should at most be one wall thickness deep, which would compromise &lt;em&gt;that&lt;/em&gt; one wall's carrying capacity. A 2-wall print might see significant weakness due to the engraving, but with 3 or more walls, the impact would be massively reduced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2024-01-26T10:55:32.083" LastActivityDate="2024-01-26T10:55:32.083" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22996" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22999" CreationDate="2024-01-26T11:13:40.067" Score="-1" ViewCount="81" Body="&lt;p&gt;Everything worked normally until the printer finished with a model after a 22-hour print job. As usual, I made everything like for the previous models to print the next one, but I suddenly noticed that this time it was printing only to the left side, the coordinates of Y-axis. I tried to change some parameters, opened and cleaned the nozzle from the PLA, powered it on-and-off to rest, checked everything, and performed some research on the net and youtube but it's still the same.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally, I'm sharing this photo as an example of the current situation, with labeling that works only in Y-axis:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UOvqF.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UOvqF.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;A photo from an earlier print. Labeling says, it only moves the bed.&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any suggestions, or solutions if someone has had the problem before?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40840" LastEditorUserId="40840" LastEditDate="2024-01-28T21:01:56.000" LastActivityDate="2024-01-28T21:01:56.000" Title="Creality Ender 3 after normal printing, lost the ability to print in X and Z axis" Tags="|creality-ender-3|troubleshooting|z-axis|x-axis|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22997" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22996" CreationDate="2024-01-26T12:38:15.710" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The problem is, that the printer stopped working in the X-direction. There can be multiple reasons for this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The motor is not connected to the mainboard.&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check the connectors. It should be plugged into the motor and the mainboard. The Ender3 is known to have its cable in such a position that it can be pulled at by the bed on some occasions, a pulled connector can happen because of that.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The motor might be stuck.&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Carefully try to rotate the pulley wheel on the x-axis motor while powered down. If it doesn't move, the motor might need replacement. If you move the printhead manually with a slow to medium speed you might generate current, and light up the display of the printer. Such a lighting up indicates that the motor, the connectors, and some parts of the main board are working. Be careful with this, as you generate current.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The mainboard has a stepper driver that is damaged and won't supply voltage to the motor.&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You'd need to get a new mainboard.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2024-01-26T13:06:28.223" LastActivityDate="2024-01-26T13:06:28.223" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22999" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22996" CreationDate="2024-01-27T12:02:08.727" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I unscrewed parts that move X and Z axis, took off E and X connectors and then put everything in place. Gently moved the head on X axis, turned the printer on and it was working fine. Maybe, something was stuck or not in place while printing previous large model.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40840" LastActivityDate="2024-01-27T12:02:08.727" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23000" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2024-01-27T13:26:35.430" Score="-1" ViewCount="36" Body="&lt;p&gt;With my Ender 3 S1 the bed leveling z-probe level and the nozzle Z-level are not alligned. The nozzle is 0.77 mm higher than the bed leveling probe. I think this causes some problems I have:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When printing the first layer in PLA -- either a G-code for bed level calibartion, or an actual print -- the first layer is not properly attaching plate.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Because the probe and the nozzle are not alligned, and the probe is lower, the probe pulls the first layer along and messing up the print.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If the first layer comes out relatively okay and the print can continue, the print has trouble completing because the probe constantly scrapes over the print. Sometimes the print completes, sometimes the probe pulls the print loose from the bed during the scraping and print fails.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is, how do I align the Z-level of the bed leveling probe and the nozzle?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would think there is some mechanism to align them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some notes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The Z-offset moves both the probe and the nozzle.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I have tried replacing the nozzle thinking the nozzle might be damaged. But the difference remains.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I have measured the 0.77 mm at the center, but at all sides of the build plate I see a clear space between the pin and the nozzle.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Manually bed leveling does not work because after leveling on the nozzle the z-probe again adds the 0.77 mm space.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Printing TPU goes fine. I believe this is because the scraping of the TPU is less risky because the TPU flexes.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="41291" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2024-01-27T14:20:04.653" LastActivityDate="2024-02-13T17:08:05.877" Title="Nozzle Z-level is not aligned with Z-probe" Tags="|creality-ender-3|pla|bed-leveling|nozzle|z-probe|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23001" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2024-01-27T17:21:53.660" Score="1" ViewCount="38" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to print a &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Surface_of_constant_width&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;solid of constant width&lt;/a&gt;, and I have defined its shape as trios of math equations in two variables: &lt;code&gt;X(u, v)&lt;/code&gt;, &lt;code&gt;Y(u, v)&lt;/code&gt;, and &lt;code&gt;Z(u, v)&lt;/code&gt;. The equations also have two radius parameters, &lt;code&gt;a&lt;/code&gt; and &lt;code&gt;h&lt;/code&gt;, that determine the specific shape of the surface generated by the equations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there software that will let me define the vertices of a 3D object with parametric equations, dynamically creating/removing/adjusting-the-positions-of vertices as I change the step size of &lt;code&gt;u&lt;/code&gt; and &lt;code&gt;v&lt;/code&gt; (determining the total number of vertices) and the values of the parameters &lt;code&gt;a&lt;/code&gt; and &lt;code&gt;h&lt;/code&gt; (adjusting the positions of the vertices), and export the resulting object as a 3D file to be imported into slicing software?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Blender has XYZ Math Surface, which will create an object from three functions; but once created it is entirely static, and the parameters cannot be adjusted without deleting the object and starting over. GeoGebra will create 3D surfaces and export them as STL files, but doesn't allow choosing the step size and thus vertex count. Are there any good alternatives?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="41113" LastActivityDate="2024-01-29T07:48:16.113" Title="Is there software that allows generating the vertices of a 3D model from a math function and adjusting them dynamically?" Tags="|3d-models|software|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23002" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2024-01-27T21:15:56.213" Score="1" ViewCount="114" Body="&lt;p&gt;My PETG prints keep clumping up and stringing. The print is otherwise fine, but there are so many imperfections because of this. It looks like the clumping comes from the infill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried replacing the nozzle with a hardened steel one and fiddling with the settings, but the issue keeps happening.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do I resolve this issue?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Printer: AnyCubic Kobra 2&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Filament: &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B07PDV9RC8&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Overture PETG&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Extruder temperature: 240 °C&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bed temperature: 90 °C&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Layer height: 0.2 mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Nozzle diameter: 0.4 mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fLMqy.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fLMqy.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4quae.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4quae.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/g3d1x.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/g3d1x.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="41194" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2024-01-28T04:57:21.080" LastActivityDate="2024-01-29T16:17:09.107" Title="How do I prevent PETG from stringing and clumping up?" Tags="|fdm|petg|stringing|anycubic-kobra|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23003" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23006" CreationDate="2024-01-27T21:30:24.177" Score="0" ViewCount="194" Body="&lt;p&gt;I upgraded two printers (Creality Ender 3 V2) with a dual Z-axis upgrade using an additional stepper motor. However, I realized that this could potentially still cause the two screws to be moved individually.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I figured that a mechanical dual Z-axis with a timing belt would have probably be a better upgrade instead of adding an additional stepper motor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyhow, when two stepper motors are used, how to accurately synchronise them so that both screws on the Z-axis are and stay synchronised?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36802" LastActivityDate="2024-01-27T23:38:06.557" Title="How to accurately synchronise dual Z-axis when two steppers motors are used?" Tags="|z-axis|stepper|belt|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23004" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23005" CreationDate="2024-01-27T22:26:36.510" Score="0" ViewCount="75" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to understand both Oldham couplers and a Anti-Recoil Nuts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Oldham Coupler&lt;/strong&gt;: Its function is to connect two shafts and transfer rotation from one to the other while compensating for misalignment. &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OfQXz.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OfQXz.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Oldham Coupler&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Anti-Recoil Nut&lt;/strong&gt;: Its purpose is to eliminate backlash in the lead screw, ensuring precise linear motion. &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ShL1M.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ShL1M.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Anti-Recoil Nut&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In case of the Creality Ender 3 V2 both are a replacement for the original nut:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VjdIP.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VjdIP.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Original Nut&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why is there no part that utilises both functions in order to have the benefits of both? Better alignment to reduce Z-Wobble using the Oldham Coupler, and less backlash and better motion precision using the Anti Recoil Nut.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To my understanding they cannot be used both at the same time and I could not find a part that seems to combine those functions. Am I missing something? Does one make the other obsolete?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36802" LastEditorUserId="36802" LastEditDate="2024-01-27T22:43:50.490" LastActivityDate="2024-01-27T22:59:18.717" Title="Can a Oldham coupler and a Anti-Recoil Nut be used at the same time?" Tags="|z-axis|lead-screw|z-wobble|anti-recoil|coupler|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23005" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23004" CreationDate="2024-01-27T22:59:18.717" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't see why you couldn't use them together. They are both dealing with eliminating a different effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Oldham deals with the movement in the X-Y plane, the backlash nut with the Z-axis.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The backlash effect is not something to worry about, the Z-axis generally moves just in one direction and the gantry has reasonable mass.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2024-01-27T22:59:18.717" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23006" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23003" CreationDate="2024-01-27T23:38:06.557" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a few options when adding an extra stepper motor, the usual upgrade is using a single stepper driver, driving 2 steppers either serial or parallel connected, or using 2 stepper drivers, this requires an extra stepper on the controller board (in that case one needs to replace the board; the standard board has the ability to control 4 stepper motors individually: X, Y, Extruder and Z).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The forces in 3D printing of moving the carriage along the various axes are relatively low, far less than e.g. a CNC machine where a spinning tool is pushed through a material. In 3D printing the nozzle hovers over the printing object connected to the print by a molten drop of filament, virtually no resistance. This implies that it is very unlikely to miss steps on one of the driven sides so that is becomes out of sync. Note that you can automatically tune the two sides if you have two steppers on separate stepper drivers and have a BLTouch (I'm using this on my CoreXY).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The two stepper motors push up a reasonably low mass for what the stepper motors can generate, certainly for the Z-axis as these are driven by lead screws. Driving a gantry with one stepper is &lt;em&gt;the&lt;/em&gt; design flaw of the cheap-end printers, a timing belt with a single stepper works very well (I'm using this on my take of a Prusa i3 I designed), but must be mechanically tuned to be as straight in relation to the frame (if not, a test cube would look more as a 3D skewed cube).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyhow, when two stepper motors are used, how to accurately synchronise them so that both screws on the Z-axis are and stay synchronised?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Print a fixed distance leveling aid, see e.g. &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/search?q=Level+x+axis&amp;amp;page=1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;these&lt;/a&gt; and level the X-gantry to the frame first, remove the levelling aids and then level the bed through the bed screws. The screws will not likely get out of sync, but if so, re-level with respect to the frame. Or, buy a larger controller board with more spare stepper drivers and automatically tune Z1 and Z2; be sure the bed is parallel to the frame then.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2024-01-27T23:38:06.557" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23008" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2024-01-28T06:17:14.533" Score="-1" ViewCount="59" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have tried a couple different fixes but none worked, when watching the printer it looks like the head accelerates suddenly when printing that wall.  However, when looking at the gcode the acceleration appears to be the same everywhere.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;down the middle of the pic you can see what I am talking about.  On the far left there is another 45 deg angle that printed just fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is on a Anycubic Chiron using Cura 5.6.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/j3s3C.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Photo&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/j3s3C.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Photo&quot; title=&quot;Photo&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I have a Anycubic Chiron which I use together with Cura.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I print in PLA at 210-215 °C.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The print bed is set to 60 °C.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I use a print cooling fan at 100 %.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The layer height I set to 0.2 mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The line width 0.4 from the 0.4 mm nozzle.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The printing speed is set to 50 mm/s for walls (outer walls are 35 mm/s) and 75 mm/s for infill.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;My retraction is 0.8 mm/off at 10 mm/s.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="41299" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2024-02-22T16:55:42.720" LastActivityDate="2024-02-22T16:55:42.720" Title="Deformed 45 deg angle on outer wall" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|filament|slicing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23009" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22986" CreationDate="2024-01-28T06:46:22.517" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I got a nickel plated copper meltzone extender which solved the problem. I was able to print a decent benchy with the fastest print speeds at 70 mm/s. The melt zone extender results in the same melt zone length as a volcano nozzle in a normal v6 heater block. A volcano nozzle with an adapter or just a couple m6 brass nuts should work the same. I got the Polymaker filament to work but not the Taulman. I would avoid it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28896" LastActivityDate="2024-01-28T06:46:22.517" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23010" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2024-01-28T07:14:20.940" Score="-1" ViewCount="45" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an i3 pro. The extruder motor does not work all. It rocks back and forth and gets really hot. I changed the wires, swapped the pins, changed motor - all it does is hum. I even went through the menu and tried to move it. The motor cuts off so I got a new board. The same thing occurs. It does not work. Is there any way to fix it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="41300" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2024-01-30T19:04:33.633" LastActivityDate="2024-02-01T00:20:57.170" Title="Rocking extruder stepper gets hot" Tags="|extruder|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2024-02-06T18:01:18.443" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23011" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23035" CreationDate="2024-01-28T22:39:17.150" Score="3" ViewCount="133" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Lotmaxx Shark v2, which has developed the problem of constantly saying the filament has ran out when it hasn't.  I've narrowed down the issue to the main board, and tried to work around the problem:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Installed new sensor (which is just a switch), no effect.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Checked the cable continuity all the way to the pins that plug into the main board, that was fine.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Added &lt;a href=&quot;https://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M412.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;code&gt;M412 S0&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/a&gt; to the top of my G-code file to try to disable the sensor.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Set &lt;code&gt;FILAMENT_INVERTING&lt;/code&gt; in the firmware configuration.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If, for whatever reason, the main board is damaged, I'd love to just disable this sensor.  I don't really need it.  Also unused is the second extruder set, so if I can't disable the sensor maybe I could configure the printer to use extruder #2 all the time instead of extruder #1?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5362" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2024-02-01T21:51:04.700" LastActivityDate="2024-02-01T22:01:40.060" Title="How to disable a filament sensor?" Tags="|marlin|g-code|filament-sensor|runout-sensor|lotmaxx|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23012" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2024-01-29T06:42:05.947" Score="1" ViewCount="68" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've seen a few sets of deprecation life numbers for 3D printers, but nothing for the Bambu Lab A1 mini. Is there an accepted deprecation life for the printer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ideally this would include a number of hours per month used in the calculations because I want to eventually work my way to a $/hr number which amortizes the cost of the printer over the hours it is expected to run.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="39118" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2024-01-29T18:59:22.493" LastActivityDate="2024-01-29T18:59:22.493" Title="What is the expected lifespan of a Bambu Lab A1 mini?" Tags="|cost|bambu-lab-a1-mini|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23013" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23001" CreationDate="2024-01-29T07:48:16.113" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The first thing that came to mind was:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;OpenSCAD&lt;/strong&gt;: A script-based 3D modeling tool ideal for creating models with mathematical descriptions.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Two other possible candidates are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;MATLAB&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mathematica&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36802" LastActivityDate="2024-01-29T07:48:16.113" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23014" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21800" CreationDate="2024-01-29T12:23:46.417" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A common approach to &amp;quot;design a thing that must accomodate a thing&amp;quot; is to first model the thing you need accomodated, add technical margins, then boolean subtract it from a solid block. Then carve the rest of the block to a neater shape, removing unnecessary material, making screw holes and so on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, first make the U loop on the cable, with the zip ties, as you found working. Use vernier calipers to measure the real-world model then re-create it in CAD. Make it thicker by some 10-20% than your measurements. Then create a separate object - something very roughly the shape of the strain relief, without any cable channels, then use Boolean operation to subtract the cable from it. Add any stubs to keep the cable from escaping, mounts to keep the cable relief attached to whatever you need to attach it to, extra supports for strength where you suspect it could break, then print it. Try to fit the cable, chance it will work the first time over are slim, but you'll find where adjustments need to be made, and repeat the process until you have a working product.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2206" LastActivityDate="2024-01-29T12:23:46.417" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23015" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23019" CreationDate="2024-01-29T12:31:20.743" Score="2" ViewCount="215" Body="&lt;h5&gt;What I saw&lt;/h5&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Last night, I sliced a &lt;em&gt;Califlower&lt;/em&gt; in &lt;em&gt;Cura&lt;/em&gt;, used the &amp;quot;Send to OctoPrint&amp;quot; option to send it to the printer via the &lt;em&gt;OctoPrint Connection&lt;/em&gt; plugin (the standard Cura OctoPrint plugin at v3.7.3), made sure the first layer printed fine, and then put my PC to sleep.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's when I noticed the print had stopped.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h5&gt;What I expected to see&lt;/h5&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I expected the print to carry on in the background, as I thought the print had already been sent to the OctoPrint 'server'.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems that rather than Cura uploading the G-code to OctoPrint (running on a Raspberry Pi 5&lt;sup&gt;†&lt;/sup&gt;, plugged into the printer via USB) telling it to print and then just monitoring progress, it streams the whole G-code in real time, using OctoPrint as a glorified network attached USB serial port, which rather defeats the purpose of having a print 'server' at all&lt;sup&gt;‡&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h5&gt;What I tried&lt;/h5&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried setting the option to &amp;quot;Store G-code on the SD card of the printer&amp;quot;, but the &lt;em&gt;Note:&lt;/em&gt; wasn't kidding when it said this would take a long time. Since there was no option to cancel, I ended up restarting OctoPrint, forcing a disconnect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h5&gt;What I want to understand&lt;/h5&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any way to get Cura to upload the G-code to OctoPrint and then tell it to print rather than stream it to the printer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would prefer my power efficient Raspberry Pi pushing G-code commands to the printer for hours, not my power hungry gaming PC.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;&amp;dagger; Specifically a Raspberry Pi 5, running Raspberry Pi OS the from 2023-13-05 Image, fully `apt` upgraded, and running OctoPrint 1.9.3, installed using the recommended `octoprint_deploy` script.&lt;/sup&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;‡ When I send a 50 page document to my networked HP printer, I don't expect &lt;em&gt;that&lt;/em&gt; to stop printing after I put my PC to sleep either!&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="63" LastEditorUserId="63" LastEditDate="2024-02-01T01:53:01.710" LastActivityDate="2024-03-11T13:10:20.787" Title="Getting OctoPrint to continue printing when I put my PC to sleep?" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|octoprint|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="13" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23016" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23002" CreationDate="2024-01-29T12:33:05.850" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The color of these clumps suggests your PETG is burning. Dark clumps, heavy stringing, that totally feels like overheated material. Try to check if the nozzle really is 240 °C because it looks like quite a bit more. Possibly the thermistor lost some physical contact with the heater block and reads way less than it should.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2206" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2024-01-29T15:10:52.860" LastActivityDate="2024-01-29T15:10:52.860" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23017" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23002" CreationDate="2024-01-29T16:17:09.107" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;PETG really likes to stick to nozzles, especially when the nozzle moves over already-printed material in the same layer, which can pull it back up and drag it around or leave it stuck to the nozzle for a long time until it eventually comes off somewhere it shouldn't be, often blackened from spending a long time in contact with heat and air, or from getting mixed with carbonized gunk that was already on the outside of the nozzle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your picture shows grid infill, which is a prime suspect for the root cause. Grid, triangles, and cubic are all &lt;em&gt;self-intersecting&lt;/em&gt; infill patterns where the nozzle crosses back over lines that have already been printed. At the intersection points, the slicer does not make any attempt to compensate for double extrusion, and in fact there really isn't any good physical way to compensate without some fancy Z motion or stopping and starting that would be prohibitively slow on most printers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Non-self-intersecting infill patterns like gyroid (any modern slicer) or full honeycomb (PrusaSlicer &amp;amp; derivatives) should go a long way to mitigate this problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some users also find higher temperatures and/or lower infill speeds solve the problem by giving the needed time/heat to cleanly melt through the original extrusion line when crossing it the second time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2024-01-29T16:17:09.107" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23019" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23015" CreationDate="2024-01-29T23:00:13.880" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The answer turned out to be to update Cura to the latest version.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h4&gt;Why does the Cura version matter?&lt;/h4&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Older versions of Cura (some time before v5.6.0) would stream commands to the &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/fieldOfView/Cura-OctoPrintPlugin&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;em&gt;OctoPrint Connection&lt;/em&gt; plugin&lt;/a&gt; rather than upload the G-Code to OctoPrint and let &lt;em&gt;it&lt;/em&gt; stream the commands to the printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is probably because &lt;em&gt;OctoPrint Connection&lt;/em&gt; started out as a fork of &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/Ultimaker/Cura/tree/2.4/plugins/UM3NetworkPrinting&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;UM3NetworkPrinting plugin&lt;/a&gt; which provided the Cura interface to UM3 networked printers, so inherited that heritage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because it was Cura itself that was streaming the commands, if the machine running Cura was put to sleep, it would stop streaming those commands. With the latest version of Cura, it behaves as you would expect. It uploads the G-Code to OctoPrint (not the printer, which would be very slow) and then lets OctoPrint stream the commands to the printer, so if the PC running Cura goes to sleep, the Raspberry Pi running OctoPrint keeps sending the commands to the printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h4&gt;Alternative solution&lt;/h4&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you cannot upgrade your Cura version, for some reason, there appear to be several other options which could work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h5&gt;Export &amp;amp; Upload the G-code file to OctoPrint&lt;/h5&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Export the G-code in Cura to a file and upload the file to the Web-UI of OctoPrint, it's then fully stored on the storage of OctoPrint. There you can then select the file and start the print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h5&gt;Watch a folder on my NAS&lt;/h5&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have network attached storage, you could save files into a network share, then mount that folder on the OctoPrint Raspberry Pi as it's &lt;code&gt;watched&lt;/code&gt; folder, as detailed in &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.apalrd.net/posts/2022/octopi_nas/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Network Mounting OctoPrint Data from a NAS&lt;/a&gt;, then monitor progress on the OctoPrint web interface rather than in Cura.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h5&gt;Switch to another slicer.&lt;/h5&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another option is to switch to another slicer. It looks like the OctoPrint integration in other slicers support print once uploaded too. Looking at &lt;a href=&quot;https://all3dp.com/2/prusaslicer-octoprint-tutorial/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;PrusaSlicer &amp;amp; OctoPrint: How to Use Them Together&lt;/a&gt;, I can see one of the steps is to check the &amp;quot;Start printing after upload&amp;quot; checkbox, but I haven't tested this yet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="63" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2024-03-11T13:10:20.787" LastActivityDate="2024-03-11T13:10:20.787" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23021" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2024-01-30T08:12:46.230" Score="1" ViewCount="23" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know why Meshmixer does this when I bring a brush to a figure?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hBdfc.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hBdfc.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="41327" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2024-01-30T10:43:32.437" LastActivityDate="2024-01-30T10:43:32.437" Title="Does anyone know why Meshmixer does this when I bring a brush to a figure?" Tags="|3d-models|3d-design|meshmixer|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2024-01-30T11:56:45.833" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23022" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23015" CreationDate="2024-01-30T12:15:13.797" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The obvious, a bit expensive but probably best and most common solution is to use Octopi. (it's so common it took me a while to realize you're running Octoprint from a PC!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You get a Raspberry Pi 3b, or 4, or any of a large number of cheaper and more available alternatives (I personally use Orange Pi zero 2) - then you install Linux with Octoprint on it. You power it up from the printer's power through some sort of regulator, connect the printer with it over a stub of USB cable, and connect it to your home LAN over Ethernet or Wifi. It's powered on and running while the printer is running. You link up Cura to it to upload gcode to its sd card (over LAN, so very fast) and you control it over web interface. That means the PC can be in another room (with Octoptint page displaying camera view of the print bed on second screen, in case anything goes wrong), you can design and slice your projects in silence and shut down your PC when you're done, while the small Pi works overnight feeding the printer gcode over its USB connection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Configuration:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;From Cura Marketplace install Octoprint Connection.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VB3Jh.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VB3Jh.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;in Octoprint: wrench icon, Features &amp;gt; Application Keys&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Generate key, name: cura.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PhxaS.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PhxaS.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In Cura, Setings, printer, manage printers, select the printer, 'Connect Octoprint'.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rK8ho.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rK8ho.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Select the Octopi from list, paste the application key in the key field.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mCmtF.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mCmtF.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From then on the PC is connected to Octopi over the net, so the transmission between the two is vastly faster than over serial, and after slicing you get the drop-down option &amp;quot;Print with Octoprint&amp;quot; besides &amp;quot;Save to disk&amp;quot;. Selecting &amp;quot;Print with Octoprint&amp;quot; allows you to type in the directory on Pi, edit the file name, and pick whether to select and start the print immediately - without that it will just be placed in the storage medium of the Octoprint device, to be started from Octoprint at a later time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1FZWn.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1FZWn.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2206" LastEditorUserId="2206" LastEditDate="2024-01-31T08:10:55.043" LastActivityDate="2024-01-31T08:10:55.043" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23023" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2024-01-30T15:45:04.247" Score="0" ViewCount="48" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm waiting for some Core Heating Technology (CHT) nozzles to arrive which I will then use to do flow calibration. For now I'm however trying to understand flow rate in relation to CHT.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does a CHT nozzle always require a much higher flow rate compared to 'regular' nozzles or can I use the same flow rate?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36802" LastEditorUserId="36802" LastEditDate="2024-01-30T18:51:30.127" LastActivityDate="2024-02-01T13:03:27.217" Title="Can I use the same flow rate for Core Heating Technology (CHT) nozzles as for non-CHT nozzles?" Tags="|nozzle|cht|flow|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23024" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23023" CreationDate="2024-01-30T19:09:01.437" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Flow compensation&lt;/em&gt;, the slicer feature you seem to be talking about, is about the material properties of the thermoplastic you're printing - its thermal expansion and corresponding shrinkage when it cools, as well as how much the extrusion path cross-section deviates from the ideal model the slicer uses to determine how much material to extruder. It is a percentage to compensate by.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Flow rate&lt;/em&gt; is how much volume of material you can push through the nozzle per unit time, and typically has units of mm³/s. I think what you're getting confused by is that CHT &lt;em&gt;enables a higher flow rate&lt;/em&gt; - this means it lets you push more material through the nozzle in the same amount of time. That has nothing to do with flow compensation and does not mean you should change it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In theory it's &lt;em&gt;possible&lt;/em&gt; that you've upped your flow compensation to compensate for slippage in the extruder gear from already trying to go faster than your extruder can really push, and that you no longer have to do this with a CHT. But that was a really sloppy compensation to begin with, if you did it, and would have led to really inconsistent, speed-dependent extrusion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suppose it's also possible that the differing melt consistency from a CHT will make the extrusion path cross section more closely match the ideal, which could affect the optimal flow compensation to use. But I have not seen any evidence to that effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In short: you don't need to do anything with your flow compensation. Whatever you saw about CHT and flows was not talking about flow compensation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2024-01-30T19:09:01.437" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23026" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23010" CreationDate="2024-01-30T22:46:30.220" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;sub&gt;A wild guess, due to the lack of info...&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;h4&gt;Insufficient current&lt;/h4&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is &lt;em&gt;possible&lt;/em&gt; that you aren't supplying enough current to the extruder stepper. The humming or rocking of a motor - stepper or otherwise - is &lt;em&gt;symptomatic&lt;/em&gt; of insufficient current and can lead to a sharp rise in temperature, i.e. the motor can get hot, very hot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically speaking, the current supplied is less than the &lt;em&gt;stall current&lt;/em&gt; of the motor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know if your board's stepper motor drivers are A4998 or DRV8225 (or something else entirely), however, you may need to adjust the current on the driver for the extruder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This diagram shows the motor driver for &lt;strong&gt;Extruder 1&lt;/strong&gt; as being the second from the bottom:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7d0a8.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Diagram of Geetech i3 Pro board&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7d0a8.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Diagram of Geetech i3 Pro board&quot; title=&quot;Diagram of Geetech i3 Pro board&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, assuming that you are using the same connections, you need to adjust  the potentiometer on this driver, to increase the current, until the rocking stops and the extruder starts to turn and extrude:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EvB2R.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Photo of board showing motor drivers - Extruder 1 is highlighted&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EvB2R.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Photo of board showing motor drivers - Extruder 1 is highlighted&quot; title=&quot;Photo of board showing motor drivers - Extruder 1 is highlighted&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even if you bought a new board, and then swapped over the motor drivers, &lt;em&gt;without adjusting the potentiometer&lt;/em&gt;, then the same issue will occur. Therefore, it is possible that your first board does not have an issue, either - you just needed to adjust the pots...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h4&gt;Dead stepper motor&lt;/h4&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;If you have checked the current and the potentiometer, then...&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is possible that the stepper has died (especially if the current &lt;em&gt;was&lt;/em&gt; too low, and the motor heated and then the windings melted - but that is a lot of supposition).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To check, you could just swap the extruder stepper for one of the other steppers and see if the same low current humming/rocking issue occurs, or if it is indeed the motor that is the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the motor &lt;em&gt;is&lt;/em&gt; faulty, then replacing a stepper motor isn't difficult, so long as you get exactly the &lt;em&gt;same model&lt;/em&gt; as a replacement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;h4&gt;References&lt;/h4&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.geeetech.com/wiki/index.php/Geeetech_prusa_i3_pro_C_building_instruction&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Geeetech prusa i3 pro C building instruction&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://forum.arduino.cc/t/another-problem-with-stepper-motor-and-a4998/697709&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Another problem with Stepper Motor and A4998&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4762" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2024-02-01T00:20:57.170" LastActivityDate="2024-02-01T00:20:57.170" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23030" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2024-01-31T19:49:58.693" Score="1" ViewCount="30" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm resurrecting a printer I inherited.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can anyone tell me if the Type A Machines Series 1 Pro heated bed has a thermal fuse in it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's a 120 VAC bed and I'd like to protect from a possible short-circuit failure of the SSR. The company is out of business and I haven't been able to find schematics or info on the web.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Below are three pictures of the heat bed. The first is a top view. &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/p7or3.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/p7or3.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Top view of TypeA heated build plate&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;The second is a bottom view.&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bP4xK.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bP4xK.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Bottom view of TypeA heated build plate&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;The third is a back view showing the place where the heater/thermistor cable enters the four-layer heat bed, which comprises (top-to-bottom in this image) an aluminum plate, a gray foam, a reddish layer that appears to be a silicone heater, and a glass plate. (The foam is absent only in this corner where the cable enters the build plate.) &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tVhVI.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tVhVI.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Back view of TypeA heated build plate&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="41345" LastEditorUserId="41345" LastEditDate="2024-02-06T18:43:40.623" LastActivityDate="2024-02-06T18:43:40.623" Title="Does Type A Machines Series 1 Pro heated bed have a thermal fuse?" Tags="|heated-bed|type-a-machines-series-1|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23031" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22879" CreationDate="2024-02-01T12:37:47.053" Score="2" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Vase mode can't have two walls&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Vase mode creates one continuous spiraling pattern all over. Z is moving up &lt;em&gt;continuously&lt;/em&gt; very slowly. There is no &amp;quot;end of the layer&amp;quot;, there is just a start point and an end point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is mutually exclusive with trying to print any single layer with more than one wall. The whole thing about Vase mode is the spiral pattern along the outer wall to have no seam or sudden moves up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastActivityDate="2024-02-01T12:37:47.053" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23032" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23023" CreationDate="2024-02-01T13:03:27.217" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The flow calibration (also known as extrusion multiplier) must be &lt;a href=&quot;https://ellis3dp.com/Print-Tuning-Guide/articles/extrusion_multiplier.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;calibrated&lt;/a&gt; each time &lt;strong&gt;at least one&lt;/strong&gt; of the following ones are changed:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;type of filament (ABS, PLA, PLA+ which counts differently, ...)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;filament brand&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;extruder+hotend+nozzle&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;(some people say also) filament colour&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you switch from CHT to non-CHT, clearly the nozzle has changed and you should at least verify the flow rate/extrusion multiplier. Maybe just test a range of +-2% without having to test the whole 90-105% range as you would do for a completely new material.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2338" LastActivityDate="2024-02-01T13:03:27.217" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23033" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22879" CreationDate="2024-02-01T15:40:35.893" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm going to call this an XY problem, because if a model admits printing in vase mode except that you want it to have &amp;quot;multiple walls&amp;quot;, the problem is not actually needing &amp;quot;multiple walls&amp;quot; but a higher total wall thickness. In that case, you just increase the &amp;quot;outer wall line width&amp;quot; to whatever wall thickness you want. With a standard 0.4 mm nozzle you can print lines up to at least 0.8-1.0 mm thick, maybe even 1.2 mm. If you need thicker than that, use a larger nozzle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2024-02-01T15:40:35.893" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23034" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19652" CreationDate="2024-02-01T20:31:48.523" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've also found recently that using 4 different slicers, I get 4 different results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was getting lots of zits on rounded surfaces such as cylinders/spheres.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have an Ender 5 S1 with a Sonic Pad, printing at 200 hot end, 60 bed with default slicer settings for my printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I used:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Creality Slicer&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Creality Print (still confused why Creality has 2 different slicers, and which one is the recommended one)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ultimaker Cura&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Prusa&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cura was the only one that produced zits. The other 3 printed very nicely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Prusa was showing &amp;quot;artifacts&amp;quot; through the cylinder when there were threads on the inside. Basically, it looked almost like the threads were extruding through the entire outer wall of the cylinder (it was a female-threaded cap).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Creality Slicer was ok, but slower than all of them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Creality Print was almost 2x faster than all of the other slicers, until a more complex print was performed and then Prusa seemed to be slightly faster.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is an old thread, and I'm pretty new to 3d printing, but thought I'd share my experience here with different slicers in case they are having print issues, too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="41353" LastActivityDate="2024-02-01T20:31:48.523" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23035" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23011" CreationDate="2024-02-01T21:48:55.657" Score="2" Body="&lt;h4&gt;Via firmware&lt;/h4&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looking at your &lt;a href=&quot;https://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M412.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;M412 - Filament Runout&lt;/a&gt; link, it says that it requires &lt;code&gt;FILAMENT_RUNOUT_SENSOR&lt;/code&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Try disabling &lt;code&gt;FILAMENT_RUNOUT_SENSOR&lt;/code&gt; in the firmware by commenting out (&lt;code&gt;//&lt;/code&gt;) the following line, in &lt;code&gt;Configuration.h&lt;/code&gt;, like so&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;//#define FILAMENT_RUNOUT_SENSOR&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From &lt;a href=&quot;https://marlinfw.org/docs/configuration/configuration.html#filament-runout-sensor&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Filament Runout Sensor&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;//#define FILAMENT_RUNOUT_SENSOR&#xA;#if ENABLED(FILAMENT_RUNOUT_SENSOR)&#xA;  #define NUM_RUNOUT_SENSORS   1     // Number of sensors, up to one per extruder. Define a FIL_RUNOUT#_PIN for each.&#xA;  #define FIL_RUNOUT_INVERTING false // Set to true to invert the logic of the sensor.&#xA;&#xA;...&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;h4&gt;Via UI&lt;/h4&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Watch this video, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pxBGBjLC2rk&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;The BEST Ender-3 V2 Firmware EVER?! MRiscoC Professional Firmware&lt;/a&gt;, at &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pxBGBjLC2rk&amp;amp;t=143&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;2:43&lt;/a&gt;,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/pxBGBjLC2rk?start=0&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It shows the Filament sensor can be disabled via the UI:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BgTAr.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Filament settings on printer UI&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BgTAr.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Filament settings on printer UI&quot; title=&quot;Filament settings on printer UI&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4762" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2024-02-01T22:01:40.060" LastActivityDate="2024-02-01T22:01:40.060" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23036" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22979" CreationDate="2024-02-02T09:07:55.773" Score="1" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Reference objects&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When scanning something, including a simple reference geometry, such as a cube, is best. This can then be used to scale the final model to the correct size and as a reference for if the item has the correct angles. Besides cubes, coins (esp. matte ones) make handy markers and scale references.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your scan contains color values, a simple photo scale angle could suffice. That item would be taken directly from photography. There it is sometimes required to contain size information and a pointer to the angle the photo was made at. This is made by using a square or angle with scale markings and distortions of the item can be solved later till the angle appears properly and to the right scale.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastActivityDate="2024-02-02T09:07:55.773" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23037" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21691" CreationDate="2024-02-02T09:34:25.423" Score="2" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Degrees of freedom&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2D has &lt;strong&gt;3&lt;/strong&gt; degrees of freedom: X, Y, and a single rotation. As a result, you can describe any object in 2D by defining its center position and the rotation its surface start point is at and then referencing its shape.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3D has &lt;strong&gt;6&lt;/strong&gt; degrees of freedom: X, Y, and Z position, and the rotation around each of the axes. Describing a 3D object is much more complicated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Printers usually work with fully constrained rotations after the slicing. Traditional machining has limited Z accessibility without a 4th axis or using a 5-axis arm, and is limited in depth by the length of tooling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Slicing is a number of mathematical 2D processes&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When slicing, the slicer creates slices of a layer thickness. These then are interpreted by projecting to the center the smallest outline that would fit everywhere in the body and raising that outline to the center of the slice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The stack of outlines is pretty much the outer surface reduced to a number of 2D objects. As placing the object already fixed its rotation, this leaves each outline to be solved for 2 variables for the toolpath: X and Y.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just stacking all these results in a 3D object in the end.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;2.5D is a machining term&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Traditional machining creates 3D objects. However, &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/2.5D_(machining)&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;machining with a 2.5D setup&lt;/a&gt; does not create undercuts, as it only uses cylindrical tooling in most cases. This machining works by projecting the top item onto a plane and having at most one Z coordinate. That means one can easily create a &amp;quot;height map&amp;quot; of the item's surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The surfaces in nonplanar mapping are similar: the top examples have a lot of traditional 2D solved printing and a single top layer that follows a 2.5D machine path - which is, remind you, a simplified 3D coordinate system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By only solving the last layer for X, Y, and Z path coordinates and banning undercuts, the solving time can be massively reduced, leading to faster slicing and allowing more time spent on refining the print paths. 2.5 D path solution algorithms also are much better explored from traditional machining, while true 3D machining requires the machining tool to move with all degrees of freedom.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Layered 2.5 D&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Example (a) below breaks from traditional 2.5 D but can be reduced back to 2.5 D. Cutting the item in non-planar layers that follow the bottom geometry, that geometry can be solved as a 2.5 D machine path, and then the next layer is solved with an offset above that. However, cutting an item non-planarly can become very complicated, especially with more complex geometry than a simple arch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2024-02-04T18:29:59.290" LastActivityDate="2024-02-04T18:29:59.290" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23038" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13318" CreationDate="2024-02-02T19:29:25.143" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I realize this is an old post, but in the event someone is having a similar problem and this post turns up in a search....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All three axis-stop switches are normally closed, and go open when the axis carriage hits the little lever.  What this switch is doing is providing an easy low-resistance path to ground for the 3.3 (or 5) volt control card rail.  You have the rail feeding this circuit through a 10K resistor (or some other relatively high value resistor), then the path forks; one fork to the limit switch, the other through a 100 ohm resistor to the microprocessor pin that handles the stop input.  As long as that limit switch is closed and the circuit is good, the 3.3 volts goes through it to ground and the microprocessor never sees the 3.3 volts, the pin is &amp;quot;LOW.&amp;quot;  Once that switch is opened, the easy path to ground is removed, and the 3.3 volts goes to the microprocessor, and the pin goes &amp;quot;HIGH.&amp;quot;  If that switch or harness wiring has failed in a manner that opens that branch of the circuit, the card thinks the stop is &lt;em&gt;already&lt;/em&gt; tripped, and won't allow motion towards the switch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can verify this easily enough by putting a meter on the two contacts in the Z-stop plug where it plugs into the control card (remove it from the card first so you aren't reading the &lt;em&gt;card&lt;/em&gt; too.)  Using the continuity function (buzzer or just reading ohms), you should get straight continuity with the switch at rest, and it should go open (infinite ohms) when you push the lever.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;This checks both the switch &lt;em&gt;and&lt;/em&gt; the harness wiring. If you don't see that state-change from continuity to open when you push the lever, go up to the switch itself and pull the wires off it, and read the switch pins directly with the meter.  Same deal, should read continuity when in the at rest state, and go open when you push the lever.  If it does, then the harness wiring is bad.  If not, the switch is junk or failing, soon to be junk.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A LOT of people have a LOT of trouble adding a BLTouch to their machines, with many reporting that the gantry won't go down no matter what they do short of turning the Z-screw(s) by hand.  This is a direct result of removing the Z-stop switch wiring and/or switch.  That easy route to ground was removed when the switch was disconnected/removed, and even worse, now the microprocessor has conflicting inputs as to the status of the Z axis, one input from the BLTouch telling it the Z-axis is untripped, and the missing switch is telling it that it's already tripped... therefore, no downward motion, only up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To fix this you have to edit the firmware (configuration.h) in the section covering the state of the stop switches.  They are all defaulted to &amp;quot;HIGH,&amp;quot; meaning that if the microprocessor sees that voltage, it's tripped.  Remember, anything that opens that circuit makes the associated pin to high (including disconnecting the Z-stop wiring from the control board, OR removing the switch and mounting bracket completely.)  Doesn't seem to matter if you use the five-pin dedicated Z-probe socket for all five wires or put the black and white wires in the Z-stop socket and the other three in the Z-probe socket.  You have to change the &amp;quot;tripped state&amp;quot; of the Z-axis in firmware from &amp;quot;HIGH&amp;quot; to &amp;quot;LOW,&amp;quot; then build the new firmware and flash the control card with it.  I beat my head against that BLTouch for nearly four months before I stumbled across this little factoid that nobody else was talking about (not anywhere &lt;em&gt;I&lt;/em&gt; was looking, anyway, which was pretty much everywhere.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Schematics are a HUGE help (for some things) if you can read them!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="41358" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2024-02-03T16:14:17.923" LastActivityDate="2024-02-03T16:14:17.923" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23041" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23043" CreationDate="2024-02-03T13:34:35.970" Score="3" ViewCount="89" Body="&lt;p&gt;Starting from this sketch:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GnVZY.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GnVZY.png&quot; alt=&quot;Sketch showing a curved profile&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've revolved and extruded it to result in the body shown:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bGAiy.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bGAiy.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;3D body resulting from revolving and extruding the sketch&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is destined to be printed, so I need to fill in the cavity of the stick-y-out-y bit. I can use Surface-&amp;gt;Patch to make it &lt;em&gt;look&lt;/em&gt; correct from the outside, but there's still a void within:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4AM6i.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4AM6i.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Close-up of cavity&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/blLMo.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/blLMo.png&quot; alt=&quot;3D body with hole filled in with a surface patch&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Fuz9r.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Fuz9r.png&quot; alt=&quot;Sectional analysis revealing cavity&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've searched using phrases such as &amp;quot;fusion join surface to body&amp;quot; &amp;quot;fusion fill void within body&amp;quot; and have only found results talking about making a body exclusively from surfaces. One promising sounding option was &amp;quot;boundary fill&amp;quot;, but it seems to have no effect in this case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the correct tool / technique to use here?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="41364" LastEditorUserId="36802" LastEditDate="2024-02-04T14:43:44.513" LastActivityDate="2024-02-04T14:43:44.513" Title="How to fill a void within a body?" Tags="|fusion360|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23042" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23041" CreationDate="2024-02-03T15:46:53.703" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't know if there is a tool that can do that (would be very helpful), but you could use boolean operators to do the same!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A simplified version of your product looks like:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NMiTf.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NMiTf.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you create an box , or part of a box of the same height in the part you need to fill the void it will kook like (2 separate bodies in one view):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rofV2.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rofV2.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now use a boolean operator &amp;quot;Split Boby&amp;quot;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cjOFs.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cjOFs.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can subtract your shape from the box:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Az7aw.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Az7aw.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;to get multiple parts (3 parts in this case):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Uw08C.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Uw08C.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now use a boolean operator to glue the parts together (option combine):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TbqaZ.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TbqaZ.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This will give you your filled void:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nphaO.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nphaO.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2024-02-03T15:46:53.703" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23043" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23041" CreationDate="2024-02-03T19:40:07.983" Score="3" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Simplify the order of operations&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sometimes, it is way easier to do the order of operations in a different order:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, create the thickness of the body. Only then then subtract the rotation profile and last sweep the the outer profile subtractively&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yFQhh.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yFQhh.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yWxOT.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yWxOT.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TIZLQ.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TIZLQ.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastActivityDate="2024-02-03T19:40:07.983" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23045" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21766" CreationDate="2024-02-04T16:21:09.020" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use them both for my Ender 3 home-against-bed and for my delta-calibration probe, and they work reasonably well. Of course, as noted in a comment by Fritz, you should remove the metal lever arm, as that &lt;em&gt;amplifies any error&lt;/em&gt;, as well as introducing its own non-reproducibility through arm stiffness that may vary with temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I forget the actual spread of values I get probing my delta, but my Klipper probe configuration has &lt;code&gt;samples_tolerance&lt;/code&gt; set to 0.015 mm, meaning that, when it probes each point 5 times, it will start over if it gets measurements that differ by more than that amount, and normally it does not restart. However, with it previously set lower (probably 0.005 mm but I don't remember for sure), I did on occasion hit instances of it repeatedly failing. So, in my usage, it was repeatable with an error margin of something greater than 5 microns but less than 15. I don't think that's too bad.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The particular switch/PCB I use was a cheap generic &amp;quot;Ender 3 endstop switch replacement&amp;quot; off Amazon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2024-02-04T16:21:09.020" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23047" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2024-02-05T16:18:42.157" Score="0" ViewCount="30" Body="&lt;p&gt;While printing you can see the Z Axis screw slightly moving as the printhead travels across the work space. This results in a tapered print - I see about 0.7 mm taper right to left over 100 mm. This has been constant for a while now, it started after only a few good prints from new. I purchased the printer new in January 2023, and have only sporadically used it, mostly since I cannot print level parts.&#xA;I have leveled and releveled manually. I do not believe it is a leveling issue, but something more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="41380" LastActivityDate="2024-02-05T16:18:42.157" Title="Creality Ender 5 S1 Z Axis wanders while printing" Tags="|bed-leveling|z-axis|creality-ender-5|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23048" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21402" CreationDate="2024-02-06T01:28:21.517" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The default purge line is supposed to be &lt;strong&gt;thick&lt;/strong&gt;. So thick that it's actually problematic for some materials. Thus, it's possible for it to come out &amp;quot;thin but adhering to the bed just fine&amp;quot; if your distance from the nozzle to the bed is significantly too high. You probably just need to adjust your bed height.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2024-02-06T01:28:21.517" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23049" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2024-02-06T19:55:53.670" Score="0" ViewCount="28" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been printing for years and I have no idea what is going on now. My prints are not coming out and random areas of the build plate have hardened resin where there should be nothing. These are pretty simple objects that are 3mm thick.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ArtRx.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ArtRx.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;After print complete&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dVGvc.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dVGvc.png&quot; alt=&quot;Chitu Screenshot&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ar5vo.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ar5vo.png&quot; alt=&quot;settings&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8DfVz.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8DfVz.png&quot; alt=&quot;Printer Settings&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="41390" LastEditorUserId="41390" LastEditDate="2024-02-07T13:25:05.467" LastActivityDate="2024-02-07T13:25:05.467" Title="Prints failing and there is resin hardened on the build plate in areas with no model on Elegoo Mars 3 Pro" Tags="|3d-models|3d-design|resin|elegoo-mars|chitubox|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23050" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2024-02-07T03:43:48.787" Score="0" ViewCount="33" Body="&lt;p&gt;Pictures tell the story. Either the printing layers are uneven sizes or they clumo at the beginning and end of the print.&#xA;Bambu P1P with a generic PLA and all default settings with auto generated tree supports. Top and bottom areas should be sharp points, not this mess&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Grzbg.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Grzbg.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;gross print&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="41395" LastActivityDate="2024-02-07T03:43:48.787" Title="Prints are clumpy, uneven and &quot;gloopy&quot;" Tags="|bambu|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23051" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2024-02-07T13:36:40.583" Score="1" ViewCount="35" Body="&lt;p&gt;Let's assume a I set a layer time to start increasing cooling from the base value, and another minimum layer time at which cooling reaches the maximum I set.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;How is the interpolation between the two obtained?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Background information:&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In general I would expect an inversely proportional relationship, since, for example, half layer time means doubling the cooling. Is this the case, or is it a linear relationship?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If an inversely proportional formula is used, I may only need to define the layer time for the max cooling, and the software would reduce it based on layer time alone, with an additional rule about never going below a predefined amount.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2338" LastEditorUserId="2338" LastEditDate="2024-02-09T09:44:34.813" LastActivityDate="2024-02-09T09:44:34.813" Title="How is the fan speed calculated?" Tags="|slicing|cooling|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23054" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2024-02-08T11:59:34.250" Score="2" ViewCount="45" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to print a protein model, given any orientation there are a large number of overhangs, making it difficult to judge by eye which orientation uses the least support material.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a tool in CURA that will try many orientations and pick the one requiring the least amount of support material?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="35564" LastEditorUserId="36802" LastEditDate="2024-02-08T12:54:35.443" LastActivityDate="2024-02-08T12:54:35.443" Title="How to find the orientation that uses the least amount of support material in CURA?" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|support-structures|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23055" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2024-02-08T14:21:31.033" Score="-1" ViewCount="49" Body="&lt;p&gt;Recently got an Ender V3 SE and new to 3D printing. I am having issues where the prints are sticking hard to the middle of the print bed and are difficult to remove, often with damage to the bottom. If offset anywhere else on the bed, the prints are fine. Wondering if the build plate has an issue&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="41413" LastActivityDate="2024-02-08T21:01:14.227" Title="Ender V3 SE middle of print bed sticking but fine elsewhere" Tags="|creality-ender-3|adhesion|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23056" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2024-02-08T16:52:47.760" Score="1" ViewCount="32" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am trying to get a file produced by a manufacturer and they want the detailed dimensions of the model, it is a complex ID card badge holder and I am wondering if there is an easier way to get a dimension sheet. I have used Fusion 360 to get like face and edge measurements but there are a lot and I was seeing if there was a better way to do it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="41415" LastActivityDate="2024-02-08T16:52:47.760" Title="How to get detailed information from an STL file for the manufacturer?" Tags="|troubleshooting|stl|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23057" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23055" CreationDate="2024-02-08T21:01:14.227" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Consider to measure the nozzle distance from the bed at the &amp;quot;normal&amp;quot; points, those at which you have no release problems and compare that distance to the points at which the release is difficult. It's not out of the realm of possibility that your bed has a substantial enough distortion to cause the nozzle to too-heavily bond the filament to the bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're willing to put a bit more effort into the solution, you can install Octoprint on just about anything and run the &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprintscape.com/octoprint-bed-level-visualizer-complete-setup-guide/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Bed Level Visualizer&lt;/a&gt; which will present a color graph representing the flatness of the bed. Image below from linked site:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dj7m8.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dj7m8.png&quot; alt=&quot;bed level visualizer graph&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's important when running this program to note the scale for the axes. The linked image shows rather large scale which presents a fairly distorted bed, but I've seen similar images in which the scale was one-tenth or one one-hundredth of this image. As a result the distortion is relatively severe, but absolutely measured, quite insignificant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastActivityDate="2024-02-08T21:01:14.227" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23058" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2024-02-09T04:29:13.027" Score="1" ViewCount="51" Body="&lt;p&gt;When changing filament during a print job I get a message to feed new filament, then press Okay. After pressing Okay, I get the message &amp;quot;Please insert the filament&amp;quot; - but nothing happens.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I repeatedly press the Okay, but nothing. I can load filament, but that requires stopping the print job. Seems like a software problem to me. Any advice? No, it's not the nozzle temperature or any such thing. The filament feed system does not run when Okay is pressed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="41419" LastEditorUserId="33169" LastEditDate="2024-02-09T18:21:39.977" LastActivityDate="2024-02-10T18:43:18.823" Title="Why does filament feed system not run when changing filament?" Tags="|filament|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23059" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2024-02-09T14:55:40.753" Score="0" ViewCount="71" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am searching for some material, that can be turned (even with post-processing) into a &amp;quot;glass&amp;quot; like texture.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally, it should withstand some pressure (0.5 MPa in approximately 30 mm diameter canals) so PLA does not fit my case... Mostly, I would appreciate some CFR, since its mechanical properties are amazing, but it doesn't have to be that way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I own Markforged FX20, Mark two and Ultimaker S5.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="41422" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2024-02-11T09:54:37.470" LastActivityDate="2024-02-11T11:27:29.837" Title="Transparent material" Tags="|filament|fdm|material|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23060" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23059" CreationDate="2024-02-10T15:41:04.580" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;To be honest,3D printing has a poor reputation when it comes to transparent parts as resin tends to discolor when exposed to UV light, and need to be coated with another material such as a clearcoat in order to maintain their glass like finish for any time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Filament is even worse, it yellows quickly and will have visible layer lines no matter how much you tune your printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With machines of the quality that you're mentioning, you would be best going with the manufacturer's own brand PETG, turning the extrusion up to the maximum and the cooling off, then the speed down. Ironically, thicker layers are best as they bond together better and so form less pronounced layer lines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My personal recommendation would be use your printer to create a part in an opaque material, and then use that part to create a mold so that you can create your part out of two part epoxy resin, or create a blank that can be used in a vacuum former.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="29097" LastActivityDate="2024-02-10T15:41:04.580" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23062" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23059" CreationDate="2024-02-11T11:19:57.283" Score="3" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Print problems&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Only very few FDM materials are truly transparent. When printing a line next to line, inclusions of air can and will create outer boundaries that would be visible, so it is paramount to print in such a fashion that prints are as tight as possible. Another problem is, that under normal conditions the extrusion-extrusion boundaries are quite visible and that have different refraction indices inside the part. To remove those boundaries and gaps, it needs special printing parameters that result not only in filling every gap but also partially melt all adjacent lines to create a truly solid part. As such, FDM prints with multiple layers for walls are extremely hard to make fully transparent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With extreme tuning, the internal voids can be reduced to almost none or truly none, and inter-wall bonding increased to be nigh invisible, but this leaves outer walls.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Extreme settings for clarity&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/9qb25Gi4Jv0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Stefan from CNC-Kitchen&lt;/a&gt; had a whole talk about these specialty print parameters with which he achieved very low-opacity prints in some, but not always all directions. As a baseline, he used settings proposed by &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/redirect?event=video_description&amp;amp;redir_token=QUFFLUhqazdWTzUtRHY2RUF4d2pwem9Hb1RpYjBkTEl1d3xBQ3Jtc0trVkp2bjFnUUo2NHFQMVlCSTRVbkpZbHhIWlV3T1AzX1ZORDB5UDh6SzhtaWwwWEc2bVZyNEg0UmlqOU1tZThhZmVBU1Bua3pEc2NQNXRDZVpsc2d3TklKNHVCUkE5TDJZLXczRUhvdmlDZDNCSVMyOA&amp;amp;q=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.printables.com%2Fmodel%2F15310-how-to-print-glass&amp;amp;v=9qb25Gi4Jv0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Rygar1432&lt;/a&gt;. He started using a very transparent PCTG, with already very good results, and then experimented with PETG, which had a slightly less transparent look to it after optimizing the settings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/y9Bhn.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/y9Bhn.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Comparison shot of PCTG and PETG print with best settings&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The exact composition of the print material was found to have tremendous effects on the transparency, thus different manufacturers and even rolls from different batches might behave differently and require different settings. Further, some filaments absorb moisture over time, which will degrade the print result by creating voids of entrapped water vapor. As printers also heat slightly differently due to the variance of the heater cartridges' resistance, your settings might not be perfectly applicable to another printer of the same type and might require adjustment. The most important basic settings discussed were:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;extrusion width &amp;amp; layer height&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Compared to the standard 0.4 mm or 0.45 mm, a wider extrusion of 0.5 mm was used, but the layer height was significantly reduced to 0.12 mm at the same time, resulting in the plastic getting pressed tighter against the previous print and allowing fusion to other walls&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;perimeters&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Using only a single outer perimeter made the print mainly composed of infill and reduced the different geometries that could create pockets&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;printing speed &amp;amp; part cooling.&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Compared to classic prints, the printing speeds had to go way down to 15 mm/s, which is about 1/4 of typical print speeds. The slower print speed assists with keeping the extruded plastic hotter in the area of the nozzle, assisting with inter-extrusion bonding. This was further assisted by disabling part cooling. However, this resulted in very bad results of bridging material.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Infill Geometry&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;An aligned rectilinear infill pattern was necessary to remove almost all voids, which was coupled with no top and bottom surfaces to again, reduce different print geometries that could create voids in the print.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sN7jW.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sN7jW.png&quot; alt=&quot;comparison between aligned and classic rectilinear patterns&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The most important factor was the extrusion multiplier, which for Stefan's machine was best at about 101 %, as above that he started to experience some deformation of the part's outer shape, mostly in the shape of rough surfaces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Tb3V6.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Tb3V6.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;row of prints with increasing flow multiplier, 101 % demarked&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A slight bit of polishing and cleanup was at times required, as Stefan retold. Also, again, the outer perimeter clearly shows in different alignments of the print, best shown with this shot. While you can see almost undisturbed through the part down like, sideways the outer perimeters are very opaque.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CjuAC.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CjuAC.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Alignment effect on print clarity&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All in all, you &lt;em&gt;could&lt;/em&gt; get a very well-transparent print in &lt;em&gt;some&lt;/em&gt; directions, but the outer surfaces are always somewhat rough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Specialty Filaments&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some filaments can be treated after printing to create a single, well-fused outer surface that is nigh fully transparent. This precludes prints with many walls unless the interior is already clear, but the results are known to be stunning for prints with a single or few walls. Do note that the order of filaments mentioned here is by the toxicity of their solvents, so the higher up in the list, the less dangerous it is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h4&gt;PVB&lt;/h4&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.printables.com/de/model/69196-hourglass&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Hourglass by Mageb&lt;/a&gt; uses a chemical quirk of &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Polyvinyl_butyral&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;polyvinyl butyral (PVB)&lt;/a&gt;: it is soluble in &lt;a href=&quot;https://fiberlogy.com/en/fiberlogy-filaments/fibersmooth-pvb-filament/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;isopropyl alcohol&lt;/a&gt; to a good degree, resulting in softening and smoothening of the surface if the right exposure time is used. It's hard to predict if and where the IPA can creep into the walls to remove cavities without destroying the print's shape, so this effect is generally best used on Vase-mode prints. This of course limits the wall thickness and strength of the print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h4&gt;ABS&lt;/h4&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's well known that &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Acrylonitrile_butadiene_styrene&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Acrylonitrile butadiene styrene (ABS)&lt;/a&gt; dissolves in Acetone. In a similar fashion to PVB, Acetone &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.wevolver.com/article/abs-smoothing-acetone-vapor-baths-other-ways-to-remove-layer-lines&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;liquid or vapors&lt;/a&gt; thus can be used to smooth out the outer deformities of a print and create a smooth surface, though not only is Acetone much more dangerous than Isopropanol due to toxicity, ABS itself is a more challenging printing material to PVB and can emit some dangerous fumes in printing. Since ABS has lost ist appeal to most hobbyists, I could not find any report on possible clouding issues from the treatment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h4&gt;PETG&lt;/h4&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Polyethylene_terephthalate#Copolymers&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Polyethylene terephthalate glycol-modified [copolymer] PETG&lt;/a&gt; is chemically smoothable. However, the chemicals that can dissolve PETG are even more toxic than for ABS: &lt;a href=&quot;https://all3dp.com/2/petg-smoothing/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Dichloromethane, methyl ethyl ketone (MEK), toluene, and cyclohexanone&lt;/a&gt; are extremely toxic and nobody would guarantee you that the print will stay clear and that the prints won't cloud from the chemicals penetrating the print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2024-02-11T11:27:29.837" LastActivityDate="2024-02-11T11:27:29.837" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23063" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22938" CreationDate="2024-02-12T21:06:03.077" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Step 1: remove the glass and clean up its underside as well as the aluminium base. Some sort of debris stuck under the glass is often the cause.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Step 2: Tighten the eccentric nuts on the bed rollers (then tighten the screws holding them). At least some of the rollers are mounted on special nuts that can be turned to move the roller away/into the rail, make sure all the rollers can be turned with some resistance, loose=no grip, no turn=too much friction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Step 3. Besides surface, as Allardjd instructs, check for crud stuck to underside of the printer legs. A twist in the frame can introduce this sort of problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If all else fails, invest in an auto bed leveling probe, it solves this sort of problems automatically and it's a huge quality-of-life improvement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2206" LastActivityDate="2024-02-12T21:06:03.077" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23065" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21418" CreationDate="2024-02-13T11:37:01.150" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could try reducing the number of perimeters from 2 to 1 &lt;em&gt;only&lt;/em&gt; for the layer in which the bridge occurs. This leaves the second perimeter in the layer below as a bridge anchor, like shown in these two images: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.reddit.com/r/prusa3d/comments/nk35dg/how_to_configure_your_slicer_to_properly_support/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;How to configure your slicer to properly support bridges&lt;/a&gt;. Or you could change the number of perimeters from 2 to 3-4 in the 3 layers &lt;em&gt;below&lt;/em&gt; the bridge to achieve the same effect with less visible artifacts on the surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other than that, you can try to reduce bridging speed and acceleration or switch to another slicer. I'm not sure if the Prusa Slicer derivatives like SuperSlicer or OrcaSlicer are better in this regard, but there's always Cura if you want to invest the effort to learn a new software.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are quite a lot of issues with the bridging algorithms in recent Prusa Slicer versions. See the Github issue &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/prusa3d/PrusaSlicer/issues/12144&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Add an option for setting bridge/perimeters overlap&lt;/a&gt; for a list of links.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13272" LastEditorUserId="13272" LastEditDate="2024-02-13T11:42:23.957" LastActivityDate="2024-02-13T11:42:23.957" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23067" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23000" CreationDate="2024-02-13T17:08:05.877" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found the issue. The nozzle is supposed to be lower than the z-probe. It seems to be caused by some screws that were not fully tightened, and because of that the nozzle assembly was hanging over a bit. Now the z-probe and nozzle are exactly level. I suppose the z-probe can or should be higher than the nozzle. But exactly level is fine too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="41291" LastActivityDate="2024-02-13T17:08:05.877" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23069" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23008" CreationDate="2024-02-14T16:03:49.533" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;These kinds of artifacts can arise in a lot of ways, and are really frustrating to deal with. From what I can tell, they're related to the &amp;quot;stalagmite&amp;quot; stringing you can get on travel with wet filament or insufficient retraction, and the basic mechanism seems to be material failing to come out of the nozzle when expected, then getting &amp;quot;pulled out&amp;quot; by surface tension or similar type forces starting upon hitting a slightly larger bump of material from the previous layer just below it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It looks like you're having this problem right after travel/unretract to a starting point on the outer perimeter. If so, this could be a result of losing material during travel (especially likely if you're skipping retractions for travel within the infill region).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another very likely cause is wet filament, making it so that it takes just a moment longer for the extrusion to start, due to getting past bubbly gunk or taking more energy to overcome the water stealing it for boiling or whatever. Drying your filament would be an easy thing you could do to check if this is the cause before spending lots of time on other possibilities.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another cause for this sort of thing is using a line width narrower than your nozzle orifice. This allows the material to expand outward in the nozzle orifice before it really starts flowing out. I know you said you have an 0.4 mm nozzle, but if it's old or if you've been printing anything abrasive (including matte filaments, glow-in-the-dark, wood fill, carbon fiber fill, glass fill, nylon, etc.) then it very well might actually be 0.5-0.6 mm or even worse, and could cause this sort of artifact.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2024-02-14T16:03:49.533" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23070" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23136" CreationDate="2024-02-15T01:53:48.250" Score="1" ViewCount="137" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an Ender 3 Pro, board version 4.2.2, and a CR Touch with 5 pin connector. I also removed the z-axis endstop connector at the endstop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've been building and flashing Marlin 2.1.2.2, but I haven't found a configuration that makes the CRTouch work as expected. Typically, during auto homing, the machine will ignore the probe triggering and drive Z into the bed either 100% of the time or most of the time. I didn't take detailed enough notes to know for sure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a test case, I tried following along with &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/19617/configuring-marlin-2-x-with-ender-3-4-2-2-and-bltouch&quot;&gt;this answer&lt;/a&gt; exactly and still had the same problem. Configuration changes from the Marlin Ender 3 Pro default:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Z_MIN_PROBE_USES_Z_MIN_ENDSTOP_PIN commented out&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;USE_PROBE_FOR_Z_HOMING uncommented&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Z_MIN_PROBE_PIN uncommented and set to PB1&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;BLTOUCH uncommented&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;NOZZLE_TO_PROBE_OFFSET set to { -44, -9, -0.9 } (here I differ slightly from the { -44, -9, 0 } in the answer)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;AUTO_BED_LEVELING_UBL uncommented&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;ENABLE_LEVELING_AFTER_G28 uncommented&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Z_SAFE_HOMING uncommented (not in the answer, but in a comment)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On my first boot after inserting the SD card with firmware:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The probe deployed and retracted a couple of times, ending retracted with the red LED on&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The machine seemingly flashed the firmware as it sat on a blue screen for a while&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The CRTouch LED turned purple I think when flashing ended, though I can't tell from my video&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When I got to the main menu, I started auto homing&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;X and Y axes worked as expected&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;For the Z axis, the probe centered on the build plate, deployed, and the LED turned blue&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The probe started lowering, contacted the plate and retracted. The LED turned to blinking red, maybe steady red first. The Z motor kept driving down so I killed the power&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The extruder fan also made a loud buzzing noise that gradually grew quieter. In the past I've noticed the buzzing seemingly get quieter when the probe is deployed or retracted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyone know what could be causing this, or how to troubleshoot it? Creality's firmware works as expected, so it's not a hardware problem. I was thinking maybe PB1 is wrong for the Ender 3 Pro, but from what I see online I gather it's the same mainboard between both printers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="41438" LastEditorUserId="41438" LastEditDate="2024-02-15T01:54:32.987" LastActivityDate="2024-03-12T04:48:30.507" Title="What do I need to configure to get Marlin to run an Ender 3 Pro with CR Touch?" Tags="|creality-ender-3|marlin|bltouch|z-probe|crtouch|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23073" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2024-02-15T17:43:09.660" Score="3" ViewCount="35" Body="&lt;p&gt;Measurements in machining often are done to an accuracy of &amp;quot;thou&amp;quot; which is thousands of an inch, or about 0.0254 mm. The measurement equipment for such is usually to an accuracy of tens or hundreds of that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Construction is often done with an accuracy of about 1-5 mm on lengths, and the measurement equipment is accurate to about 1 mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;FFF Printers often have tolerances somewhere between 0.1 and 0.5 mm in the XY axis, depending on the size of the nozzle and the quality of the printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a result, what kind of accuracy should measurement equipment for consumer FFF prints (before postprocessing) have and what kind of size scale size is required?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastActivityDate="2024-03-17T00:04:20.520" Title="What scale of accuracy in measurement tools is required to verify a FFF item's specs based on the technology properties?" Tags="|fdm|knowledgebase|dimensional-accuracy|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23075" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23070" CreationDate="2024-02-15T22:29:20.833" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I also have an ender 3 pro that I added a bl touch to. I set mine up with removing the z limit switch and connecting the bl touch using those pins along with the z probe pins. You need to verify which board you have (probably a v4.2.2) and which cpu is on your board,mine was STM32F103 RET6 CPU there are some using a different model. I was never able to get marlin to build and work with the bl touch, however I was able to flash &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/zisismaras/ender_3_4.2.2_firmware&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://github.com/zisismaras/ender_3_4.2.2_firmware&lt;/a&gt; which worked fine. A 4.2.2 board with the RET6 cpu is required. You / someone could do a config side by side and figure out which flag(s) you are missing in your configuration or you could just flash whichever probe grid you are comfortable with and use these auto builds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="41505" LastActivityDate="2024-02-15T22:29:20.833" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23076" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23073" CreationDate="2024-02-15T23:25:25.023" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I take exception to the common wisdom that FDM printers have XY tolerances in the range 0.1 to 0.5 mm. That might have been the case 5 or 6 years ago, but with a modern printer, you expect tool positioning accuracy and reproducibility (layers lining up) on the order of 10 microns (0.01 mm). The major source of inexactness is extrusion width, due to the cross sections of your extrusions not being perfect rectangles, but bulging at the sides in a shape like two matching parentheses and their convex hull &lt;code&gt;(    )&lt;/code&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One reason I bring this up is that one of the most important uses of calipers with FDM printing is to calibrate your extrusion multiplier to compensate for these effects. If you can only measure in 0.1 mm increments, measuring printed perimeters is just going to come out the nominal 0.4 mm or whatever, unless things are more than 15% or so off. That's a big relative error that will have consequences in terms of solid layers coming out with gaps or coming out over-filled and colliding with the nozzle as it digs them upward. With 0.01 mm measurement increments, you can get your extrusion right within 1%. This makes a big difference to your ability to print parts that fit the first time rather than needing trial-and-error refinement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for actually making things, if they're going to fit together with other real-world stuff, they need to be made with significant adjustability or with precise measurements. Often adjustability is the way to go when you can, but for printing replacement parts this often isn't an option. And if you need parts to match for a snap fit, interference fit, holding gears or bearings in a particular place without backlash, etc., measuring to the nearest 0.1 mm is not going to cut it. Especially with digital calipers, seeing a measurement like 10.2 doesn't tell you whether it's actually 10.151 or 10.249, or even further off if the calipers are low quality (which the ones that only show 0.1 mm scale tend to be). I found that upgrading to higher quality 0.01 mm scale digital calipers made a huge difference to my ability to just &amp;quot;get stuff done&amp;quot; with 3D printing, without having to re-print over and over tweaking dimensions. Particular applications that come to mind where it made a difference for me were:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Enclosures for PCBs/SBCs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Upgrades/add-ons for printers: brackets to mount things to the aluminum extrusions, fan ducts, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Small plastic pieces to reinforce laptops &amp;amp; other electronics where screw points on housing were broken.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Lids to pop in and seal against gaskets in air-tight bins.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Feet to fit snug on metal furniture legs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, even if in practice FDM printers can only meet mediocre tolerances, being off by something like 0.05 mm or even 0.1 mm from a known good measurement is a lot better than being off by that much from a measurement that itself was already off by nearly 0.1 mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2024-02-15T23:25:25.023" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23079" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2024-02-18T02:48:45.510" Score="2" ViewCount="47" Body="&lt;p&gt;A little context might be important to troubleshoot this: Last year, I have changed the extruder and the entire hot end piece of my Ender 3 Pro. One day, while cleaning the nozzle with a metallic brush, something on it short circuited and this bricked my mainboard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Recently, I have changed the broken 4.2.0 mainboard with a brand new 4.2.7 one. Everything seemed to be fine until I attempted to pre heat the nozzle again to 200 °C.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Every time the nozzle reaches around 100 °C the printer starts beeping loudly and resets continuously until the nozzle cools down to room temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have it connected to OctoPrint and I could see that there were no errors being logged apart from it saying that there was no SD card and no EEPROM.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What can I do to further troubleshoot this error? Is there anything from the OctoPrint side that could provide more information?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="32353" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2024-02-18T13:15:05.053" LastActivityDate="2024-03-19T14:01:00.183" Title="Ender 3 Pro Beeping when Hot End Reaches 100 ºC" Tags="|troubleshooting|creality|heating-element|mainboard|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23080" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23079" CreationDate="2024-02-18T13:37:10.490" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;A firmware is configured with settings which are stored in the chip called EEPROM. EEPROM  is short for Electrically Erasable Programmable Read-Only Memory which is a kind of non-volatile memory (see &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/EEPROM&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;wikipedia&lt;/a&gt;). It is the chip thar stores the firmware settings you generally see when you command the &lt;code&gt;M503&lt;/code&gt; G-code (see &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11438/m502-will-reset-all-configurable-settings-to-their-factory-defaults-which-set&quot;&gt;M502 will reset all configurable settings to their &amp;quot;factory defaults&amp;quot;, which settings are those?&lt;/a&gt;) in a terminal (&lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10573/what-is-a-printer-console-terminal&quot;&gt;What is a printer console/terminal?&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Creality controller board V4.2.7, with a 32-bit microprocessor (most 32-bit microprocessors do not have a EEPROM), stores the data on an SD card, not in the EEPROM. But, the firmware thinks that the EEPROM is used, it is merely a file on the SD card. This could hint to the errors that you are receiving.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To solve this, you need to insert a working SD card (format the SD card as FAT32) in the machine and keep it there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2024-02-18T13:37:10.490" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23082" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2024-02-18T21:09:20.730" Score="1" ViewCount="54" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am using Klipper on a modified Wanhao Duplicator i3 (Monoprice Maker Select V2) featuring a BLTouch probe. I am working through the painstaking process of bed leveling, but even though Klipper seems happy with the level, my first layer calibration print using SuperSlicer is not coming out well:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/L2POH.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/L2POH.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;output of calibration print&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, I adjusted the gantry to be level to the table (not the bed). I checked that the &lt;code&gt;PROBE_ACCURACY&lt;/code&gt; looks good:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;probe accuracy results: maximum 1.995000, minimum 1.987500, range 0.007500, average 1.991250, median 1.991250, standard deviation 0.002016&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then I use the &lt;code&gt;SCREWS_TILT_CALCULATE&lt;/code&gt; command to adjust the bed screws until they are very close:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;rear left screw : x=50.0, y=200.0, z=1.89750 : adjust CCW 00:02&#xA;rear right screw : x=200.0, y=200.0, z=1.89750 : adjust CCW 00:02&#xA;front right screw : x=200.0, y=50.0, z=1.89500 : adjust CCW 00:02&#xA;front left screw (base) : x=50.0, y=50.0, z=1.87750&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;code&gt;BED_MESH_CALIBRATE&lt;/code&gt; command determines that there is maybe a 0.185mm inconsistency across the bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eppMU.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eppMU.png&quot; alt=&quot;BED_MESH_CALIBRATE mesh&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I added &lt;code&gt;BED_MESH_PROFILE LOAD=default&lt;/code&gt; to my start GCODE, after homing completes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then I ran the bed/extrusion test print that SuperSlicer generated for me, shown at the top of the post. The center looks best but the left side is too far and the right side is much too close.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Isn't the mesh supposed to correct for this? What might I still have wrong?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16270" LastActivityDate="2024-02-19T19:48:53.543" Title="Poor first layer even after careful calibration" Tags="|bed-leveling|bltouch|monoprice-maker-select|wanhao|superslicer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23087" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23082" CreationDate="2024-02-19T19:48:53.543" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As pointed out by Jake Palmer on the Klipper forum, I needed to apply &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.klipper3d.org/Axis_Twist_Compensation.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;axis twist compensation&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some printers may have a small twist in their X rail which can skew the results of a probe attached to the X carriage. This is common in printers with designs like the Prusa MK3, Sovol SV06 etc...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have Z braces installed but I believe these were poorly set and exacerbating the twist. After fiddling a little while I got dramatically better prints.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16270" LastActivityDate="2024-02-19T19:48:53.543" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23088" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2024-02-20T08:44:30.703" Score="0" ViewCount="46" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm printing a vase using Spiralize Outer Contour.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On each print, I run into the issue you see in the photos. There's random 'hairs' of filament spread across the print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think it is because there might be some filament building up on the nozzle at some point. And when it becomes too much, the accumulated mess of filament touches and sticks to the print, comes loose from the nozzle, and is partly blown to the side by the part fan.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is that a common cause for this issue?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If so, what would be a logical fix to the issue? I've tried difference layer heights, I've manually bed levelled many times, and it also happens with automatic bed levelling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Setup:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Printer: Creality 3D CR-10S Pro V2&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Extruder: Bondtech DDX v3 Direct Drive&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hotend: Slice Engineering Mosquito Magnum&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/apg11.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/apg11.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ln4uB.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ln4uB.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="41547" LastActivityDate="2024-02-20T08:44:30.703" Title="Loose filament hairs on print" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|creality-cr-10|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23089" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2024-02-20T10:52:26.943" Score="0" ViewCount="46" Body="&lt;p&gt;Besides the ugly filament hairs (dealing with those separately), I've got this weird horizontal line in my print that's hard to miss. It's perfectly straight, and I can't figure out what's causing it. I'm using the Spiralize Outer Contour setting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At first, I thought maybe the wall was getting thinner for a couple of layers, but nope. It seems like the nozzle is pulling to the inside direction for a bit for a few layers, because there's also a line on the inside of the vase. On the inside, the line is kind of sticking out. But I have no idea why. I'm not seeing this on my Cura preview, it really happens during the print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Setup:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Printer: Creality 3D CR-10S Pro V2&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Extruder: Bondtech DDX v3 Direct Drive&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hotend: Slice Engineering Mosquito Magnum&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2RKei.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2RKei.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hVwl9.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hVwl9.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="41547" LastActivityDate="2024-02-20T10:52:26.943" Title="Mysterious line in my Vase-print" Tags="|creality-cr-10|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23090" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17979" CreationDate="2024-02-21T01:04:00.737" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;sub&gt;This is a Wiki answer posting the solution from &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/17979/print-bulging-and-curling-on-the-edges#comment34241_17986&quot;&gt;Carter's comment&lt;/a&gt;. If the OP (Carter) wishes to post and accept their own answer, then this wiki answer can be removed.&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did tension the belt the best I could (which wasn't too much from the original) but I think it did help a little. I also took off the Hero Me fan duct I put on and I think that helped a ton too. I was having some clogging issues as well and when I disassembled the direct drive kit I had on, I found the fan duct mount was cracked and was leaning about 20° forward. Because of this, I think the fan duct was dragging way too low and touching the print when travelling fast and this caused a ton a problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4762" LastActivityDate="2024-02-21T01:04:00.737" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2024-02-21T01:04:00.737" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23094" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2024-02-22T20:52:03.293" Score="1" ViewCount="54" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I auto home my Ender 3 Pro, it does its usual thing where it goes to the corner and then comes to the middle. Although, when it goes down and the BLT activates, the nozzle keeps going down afterwards and hits the bed while the BLT is flashing blue and red.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have tried swapping the terminals in which the BLT is placed and re-flashing the firmware yet it still doesn't work. I am using the 4.2.2 motherboard and I followed this video, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kFRy_5lh2IQ&amp;amp;t&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;ENDER 3 / ENDER 3 PRO With Board 4.2.2 - How To UPDATE FIRMWARE&lt;/a&gt;, to make sure the controller and board were correct and this video, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EGyKCSWJYls&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;How to install Marlin Firmware with BLtouch for your simple Creality printer&#xA;&lt;/a&gt;, for the settings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is the video for my problem: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QMyu-5eaviw&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;3D Printer Demo&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/QMyu-5eaviw?start=0&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you need any more info, I will try to respond as soon as I can, thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="41569" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2024-02-22T20:58:27.267" LastActivityDate="2024-02-28T05:43:16.440" Title="Printer keeps going down when BLTouch activates during auto homing (4.2.2 board)" Tags="|creality-ender-3|bed-leveling|bltouch|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23095" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23094" CreationDate="2024-02-22T23:45:41.523" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Turns out that the trigger signal (white) and GND (black) wires just had faulty connections.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="41569" LastEditorUserId="41569" LastEditDate="2024-02-23T02:18:55.483" LastActivityDate="2024-02-23T02:18:55.483" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23096" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2024-02-23T03:45:03.073" Score="2" ViewCount="68" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am looking to buy a low priced 3 mm e3D all-metal v6 hot end. It says 3 mm, however I am wondering if I could make it compatible 1.75 mm if I just get a different Bowden tube and Bowden clip.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is an e3D hot-end rated for 3 mm actually machined for said filament diameter, or is such constraint only relating to the diameter of the Bowden clip?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23125" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2024-02-23T11:51:27.867" LastActivityDate="2024-02-23T11:51:27.867" Title="Is an e3D hotend with 3 mm filament diameter still compatible with 1.75 mm filament?" Tags="|filament|hotend|e3d|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23097" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23096" CreationDate="2024-02-23T09:19:52.483" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You shouldn't buy a hotend for  2.85 mm (which is the actual filament diameter, real 3 mm filament is hard to get nowadays) when you need a hotend for 1.75 mm filament.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Indeed, the Bowden tube is way thicker (about 6 mm) for 2.85 mm filament apposed to about 4 mm for 1.75 mm filament, so you need a different coupling, but, the inside of the hotend is not meant to transport the thinner filament, so you need to fill the inside with a proper tube. This essentially makes your metal hotend a lined version. Furthermore, the nozzle has a bore of about 3.2 mm (like the heatbreak), this is detrimental for your retraction and ooze performance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I operate printers with both filaments, but always found that it is better to buy dedicated hotends for the correct size you are operating, unless you have many spare parts lying around to rebuild the hotend (nozzle, heatbreak, tubes and coupling).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2024-02-23T09:19:52.483" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23100" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22832" CreationDate="2024-02-28T02:05:53.573" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Scaling in FreeCAD is very easy but you must remember that it's CAD not art. You can offset the sub-binders off a face or sketch. You can't offset the pad or the sketch without playing with parameters, a lot, which you won't want to do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Give the sub-binder (the green one) a negative offset of say -0.5mm. Pad it as if it were a sketch and it should fit the hole.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="42598" LastActivityDate="2024-02-28T02:05:53.573" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23102" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21296" CreationDate="2024-02-28T05:56:59.573" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;One of the approaches I have tried in the past is to heat up the nozzle to a hight temperature ( a little less than 260) for several minutes, and to then see whether you can move filament through the extruder by using the menu to go to Motion, Move Axis, Extruder, 10mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If that does not work, I suggest that you turn off the machine, let it cool down, and then take apart the hot end - there are online videos to do so.  It's a bit scary the first time but if I can do it, and I have, so can you.  After taking it apart and separating the hot end from the heating block, see if you can feed filament through the hot end.  Then determine if you can feed filament through the heating block.  If you get stuck, I have found it easier just to buy a new hot end or heating block.  (If you buy a new hot end, I suggest getting a bi-metal heatbreak as it does a better job of separating the heat from the tubing that feeds the filament into the hot end. - Chep has a good video on this on YouTube for the Ender 3 Neo.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you haven't found any blockage in the nozzle, heating block, or hot-end, it's possible that the tubing through which the filament flows has been damaged (probably by heat).  If that is the case you want to replace it with capricorn tubing which can stand a higher temperature.  It is also a good idea to replace the heatbreak as discussed above.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If none of these fixes your problem, it maybe that the extruder needs to be replaced, or that the control board is broken and not driving the extruder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="42606" LastActivityDate="2024-02-28T05:56:59.573" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23104" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23105" CreationDate="2024-02-29T01:28:02.490" Score="1" ViewCount="32" Body="&lt;p&gt;I printed this on an Ender 3 S1 Pro at 215˚C with a 20% infill (actually 5 were printed at once).  The print bed was leveled prior to print.&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oFddb.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oFddb.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;The sphere with its bottom s&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I tried to remove the supports, they took the bottom of the sphere off with them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How typical is this, and what parameters can I change to have the best chance of a successful print?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="42616" LastActivityDate="2024-02-29T12:38:04.863" Title="Help With Bottom of Sphere Coming off With Supports" Tags="|support-structures|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23105" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23104" CreationDate="2024-02-29T12:38:04.863" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Have you seen question &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/13915/3d-printed-sphere-how-to-remove-roughness&quot;&gt;3D Printed Sphere, How to Remove Roughness&lt;/a&gt;? Although the question is centered around the roughness, not the supports, the answers hint to a solution for this question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you look at the answers, you see that in case you have have unsupported perimeters (see image below), they sag out (as seen in your print where the lower perimeters of the sphere are not perectly round) and may fuse with the support causing the support and the perimiters (walls) to bond quite well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Furthermore, if you use too few perimeters and a low infill percentage, the print object will become weak and have an increased change that removing the print from the plate or the support from the print cause the print to break.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aEqFf.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aEqFf.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sub&gt;Picture credits to &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/13918/&quot;&gt;Trish&lt;/a&gt;, this is 180° rotated&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2024-02-29T12:38:04.863" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23109" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2024-02-29T23:00:03.447" Score="0" ViewCount="41" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm attempting to get Autotune PID values for the heatbed. I'm using &lt;code&gt;M303&lt;/code&gt; with an &lt;code&gt;E-1&lt;/code&gt; parameter to designate the bed.  I'm also using an &lt;code&gt;S&lt;/code&gt; parameter to designate the desired temperature. It's returning a &amp;quot;Bad Extruder Number&amp;quot; error each time. &lt;code&gt;M303&lt;/code&gt; with no &lt;code&gt;E&lt;/code&gt; parameter correctly runs the Autotune process and returns valid P, I and D values for the Extruder heater.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm using instructions found here, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.3dprintgorilla.com/marlin-firmware-m301-m303-m304-g-code-commands/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Marlin Firmware M301 / M303 / M304 G-Code Commands Explained&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Printer is a Prusa i3 clone using Marlin (version 1.1.6) with Repetier to send the commands.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="33030" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2024-03-01T13:01:44.127" LastActivityDate="2024-03-01T13:44:11.690" Title="M303 Autotune for heatbed fails with &quot;Bad Extruder Number&quot; error. Why?" Tags="|pid|autotune|m303|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23110" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2024-03-01T01:10:24.283" Score="0" ViewCount="26" Body="&lt;p&gt;I picked up a cheap Ender 3 v3 SE printer a few months ago. While it works fine for PLA filament, I've been having an issue when printing ABS. My prints come out fine, but plastic will accumulate slowly on the nozzle. It starts at the tip and works its way up - it's not leaking from the threads. Eventually, it builds up enough that it deposits itself on the print. Sometimes, the head crashes into this blob and causes a layer shift.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I've been doing is cleaning the nozzle between prints. If I don't, it almost definitely will fall off and cause problems. On longer (more than 1-2 hour) prints, I have to pause the print and clean it multiple times.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've printed anywhere from 220-235 °C but it makes no difference. I don't think it's a clog because it's done this from day 1 on ABS, but has had no issues with PLA, and I've switched between them multiple times. What should I troubleshoot next?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="42625" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2024-03-01T07:02:56.947" LastActivityDate="2024-03-01T07:02:56.947" Title="Ender 3 v3 SE - ABS slowly accumulates on nozzle" Tags="|troubleshooting|nozzle|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23111" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21740" CreationDate="2024-03-01T11:54:48.003" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Do two extrusions in F360.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first will be a 'cut' into the coaster. This removes the volume from the the coaster that will be your lettering and graphics from your stencil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The second will use the same profile and depth. Except this time it will be a 'new body.' This will fill the volume that was removed in the first operation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looking at 'Bodies' in your F360 expandable tree in the upper left corner, your coaster should be one. Every letter and graphic that is isolated and not touching another letter or graphic should be another body after the last extrusion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have a dual extrusion printer the coaster can be one extruder. All other objects can be the other extruder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="35576" LastEditorUserId="35576" LastEditDate="2024-03-01T14:48:47.803" LastActivityDate="2024-03-01T14:48:47.803" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23112" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2024-03-01T12:45:51.307" Score="1" ViewCount="40" Body="&lt;p&gt;My son has a Creality Ender 3 S1. It had been printing fine until this morning. The nozzle is about 3 mm (1/8 inch) from the build plate. Is there a &amp;quot;reset&amp;quot; or &amp;quot;calibration&amp;quot; function I'm missing in the menu?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="42633" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2024-03-03T07:14:44.347" LastActivityDate="2024-03-03T07:14:44.347" Title="Print nozzle too far from the plate" Tags="|creality-ender-3|troubleshooting|bed-leveling|z-axis|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23113" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23109" CreationDate="2024-03-01T13:39:04.863" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your Marlin version is pretty old.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To enable the tuning of the bed, the &lt;code&gt;configuration.h&lt;/code&gt; file requires the following compiler directive to be set:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;code&gt;#define PIDTEMPBED&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the hotend is tuned instead, this means that either the directive has not been set, or that the firmware is flawed by the following &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/issues/12468&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;issue (#12468)&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should update the firmware to a newer version by flashing a more recent build. Note that the issue was present in a Marlin 2.0.x bugfix branch, so try the latest version or one from early 2019.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2024-03-01T13:44:11.690" LastActivityDate="2024-03-01T13:44:11.690" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23114" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23112" CreationDate="2024-03-02T12:40:34.473" Score="2" Body="&lt;h4&gt;TL;DR&lt;/h4&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There &lt;em&gt;should&lt;/em&gt; be both a &amp;quot;Restore factory defaults&amp;quot; setting and an &amp;quot;ABL setup&amp;quot; setting in the touch screen UI.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;h4&gt;Bed level&lt;/h4&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From section &lt;strong&gt;6 - Auto leveling&lt;/strong&gt; of the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.manualslib.com/manual/2602827/Ender-Ender-3-S1-Pro.html?page=13#manual&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;user guide&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Go to &amp;quot;settings&amp;quot; and tap &amp;quot;leveling&amp;quot; to enter the CR Touch leveling interface. Tap &amp;quot;start&amp;quot; and wait for the automatic leveling to complete.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Section 7 covers &amp;quot;Assisted Leveling&amp;quot; or manual leveling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h4&gt;Factory Reset&lt;/h4&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Inexplicably&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt;, this isn't in the User Guide, but from &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.reddit.com/r/Ender3S1/comments/11qv7vo/how_do_you_factory_reset_an_ender_3_s1_pro/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;How do you factory reset an ender 3 S1 pro?&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Settings &amp;gt; ADV SET. &amp;gt; Restore All Set.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Still having issues?&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can't give a verified answer, but there &lt;em&gt;seems&lt;/em&gt; to be a common-ish issue&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;, after having done a bit of googling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I assume that your S1 has a Automatic Bed Levelling (ABL) probe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From Reddit - &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.reddit.com/r/ender3/comments/u69d57/bed_leveling_problem_on_my_new_ender_3_s1_pro_abl/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Bed Leveling problem on my new ENder 3 S1 pro - ABL doesnt seems to compensate well&lt;/a&gt;, there are at least three potential solutions (copied verbatim with no corrected typos):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Make sure there is no clog in the nozzle or throat. that is not the fix but i did have problems with clicking and that fixed it. you only need to run the Auto level once. the Auto level on these machine are garbage. after the auto level adjust the z offset with the paper USING the touch screen adjustment. then go to all four corners with the paper at least twice using the knobs under the bed, not the touch screen adjustment, to get it dialed in. DO NOT run the Auto level again after this. if your g code is set to tell the machine to auto level before or after printer, Disable this. It should print fine until you do an auto level again. also make sure the bed is super clean. We are stuck with non working fancy stuff on these printers until someone can save the day with nice firmware changes, except for people like me who have the crap chip that wont let you flash at all  Sorry for any run on sentences. Also do the manual bed level with the bed warmed up not cold. my machine will crash the software if i try to auto level warm, so i have to heat it up and turn on off the bed&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;or&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Loosen all Axis just to the point of a tiny bit slop.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Clear settings(factory reset)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Manual level with paper all four coners and 80c&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Run ABL&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Be happy with your printer again.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;or&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Reset to factory defaults&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Iniciate leveling throught settings&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wait for the Home routine&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Using the point 1, I adjust the z-offset using the paper metod&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cicle all corners (using the touch menu) and adjust the bed height using the knobs until all have the same resistance. Do not return to the first point in this step&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Return to the point 1 and set the z-offset to zero.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Run the ABL and wait.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Return to home screen using the top left arrow.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Run a first layer test and adjust the z-offset.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Done&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; Which may or may not be a bug in the firmware&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4762" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2024-03-02T14:58:26.607" LastActivityDate="2024-03-02T14:58:26.607" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23115" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2024-03-03T22:59:20.057" Score="0" ViewCount="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to print out a digital elevation model of a landscape with a satellite image of the landscape overlayed on it as a texture. I've been working with the makerspace at my University, who have a Statasys J750 polyjet 3D printer. However, my file prints without the texture, just as a totally black model. The folks at the makerspace have been helpful, but they aren't really sure what the issue is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's my workflow:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Import my STL file for the DEM into Blender&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Reduce the poly count of the model by dissolving all coplanar surfaces&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Create materials for the base and for the terrain. For the base, assign a solid color (brown). For the terrain, assign a .png texture of a satellite image of the terrain, and project it onto the terrain from above using a UV mapping&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bake on the textures using &amp;quot;combined&amp;quot; bake type, with &amp;quot;direct,&amp;quot; &amp;quot;indirect,&amp;quot; and &amp;quot;diffuse&amp;quot; lighting and contributions (I'm not sure why this is necessary, but the makerspace staff told me that it is).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Export the project to a .obj file, selecting the &amp;quot;UV Coordinates,&amp;quot; &amp;quot;Normals,&amp;quot; &amp;quot;Colors,&amp;quot; and &amp;quot;Triangulated Mesh&amp;quot; options.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Import the resulting .OBJ/.MTL/.PNG files into GrabCAD and print.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When viewing the model in GrabCAD, my model displays properly, with the .png texture displaying properly on the model, similarly to the screenshot from blender I included below. Even then, my model ends up printing without any color; just as a black piece of plastic. When printing other people's projects using the same settings in GrabCAD, things seem to work fine. The staff at the makerspace aren't really sure what the issue is, and say it is likely an issue with my model.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is anyone willing to help me troubleshoot this issue? Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/k9PvD.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/k9PvD.png&quot; alt=&quot;Screenshot of model in blender&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="42648" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2024-03-04T10:57:18.970" LastActivityDate="2024-03-04T10:57:18.970" Title="Issues getting an image texture to print on a Statasys J750" Tags="|blender|color|polyjet-printer|grabcad-print|statasys-j750|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23116" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21296" CreationDate="2024-03-03T23:25:19.823" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your printer should have come with a bunch of tools, one of which is a thin wire with a rudimentary handle, and the pointy end stabbed in some foam/polystychrene for protection.  Is that what you tried inserting?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is a very small hole in the end of the nozzle, and you need it hot else the whole thing is blocked with hard filament.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12956" LastActivityDate="2024-03-03T23:25:19.823" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23117" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23118" CreationDate="2024-03-04T04:32:39.117" Score="4" ViewCount="113" Body="&lt;h3&gt;My Setup&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ender 3 Pro&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Creality Board v4.2.7&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Klipper Firmware (worked great with the stock Creality Bowden hotend and Creality Direct Drive Extruder)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Brand new Creality Sprite Pro hotend.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Wiring&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I have verified that the hotend heater cartridge is wired properly. In fact, if I reverse the polarity of the hotend heater, the LCD blinks on and off as if the board is continuously rebooting.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Problem&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The hotend immediately starts heating at 100% (24 V DC) on startup without any command to do so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;What I've tried&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I've unplugged the hot end heater (on the Sprite Pro head) and I see 24 V DC at the board nozzle output.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If I unplug the ribbon cable on the sprite end, I see ~ 300 mV at the nozzle output.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Question&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do I stop the hot end from heating up on startup?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Klipper printer.cfg:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;[include moonraker_obico_macros.cfg]&#xA;# This file contains pin mappings for the Creality &amp;quot;v4.2.7&amp;quot; board. To&#xA;# use this config, during &amp;quot;make menuconfig&amp;quot; select the STM32F103 with&#xA;# a &amp;quot;28KiB bootloader&amp;quot; and serial (on USART1 PA10/PA9) communication.&#xA;&#xA;# If you prefer a direct serial connection, in &amp;quot;make menuconfig&amp;quot;&#xA;# select &amp;quot;Enable extra low-level configuration options&amp;quot; and select&#xA;# serial (on USART3 PB11/PB10), which is broken out on the 10 pin IDC&#xA;# cable used for the LCD module as follows:&#xA;# 3: Tx, 4: Rx, 9: GND, 10: VCC&#xA;&#xA;# Flash this firmware by copying &amp;quot;out/klipper.bin&amp;quot; to a SD card and&#xA;# turning on the printer with the card inserted. The firmware&#xA;# filename must end in &amp;quot;.bin&amp;quot; and must not match the last filename&#xA;# that was flashed.&#xA;&#xA;# See docs/Config_Reference.md for a description of parameters.&#xA;&#xA;[skew_correction]&#xA;&#xA;# [filament_switch_sensor runout_sensor]&#xA;# pause_on_runout: True&#xA;# switch_pin: PA4&#xA;&#xA;[stepper_x]&#xA;step_pin: PB9&#xA;dir_pin: PC2&#xA;enable_pin: !PC3&#xA;microsteps: 16&#xA;rotation_distance: 39.83&#xA;endstop_pin: ^PA5&#xA;position_endstop: 0&#xA;position_max: 235&#xA;homing_speed: 50&#xA;&#xA;[stepper_y]&#xA;step_pin: PB7&#xA;dir_pin: PB8&#xA;enable_pin: !PC3&#xA;microsteps: 16&#xA;rotation_distance: 39.78&#xA;endstop_pin: ^PA6&#xA;position_endstop: 0&#xA;position_max: 235&#xA;homing_speed: 50&#xA;&#xA;[stepper_z]&#xA;step_pin: PB5&#xA;dir_pin: !PB6&#xA;enable_pin: !PC3&#xA;microsteps: 16&#xA;rotation_distance: 8&#xA;# position_endstop: 0.0                     # disable to use BLTouch&#xA;# endstop_pin: ^PA7                         # disable to use BLTouch&#xA;endstop_pin: probe:z_virtual_endstop    # enable to use BLTouch&#xA;position_min: -5                        # enable to use BLTouch&#xA;position_max: 250&#xA;&#xA;[safe_z_home]                         # enable for BLTouch&#xA;home_xy_position: 157.5,120.5&#xA;speed: 100&#xA;z_hop: 10&#xA;z_hop_speed: 5&#xA;&#xA;[bltouch]                             # enable for BLTouch - fast-mode&#xA;sensor_pin: PA7&#xA;control_pin: PB0&#xA;pin_up_touch_mode_reports_triggered: True&#xA;probe_with_touch_mode: True&#xA;# x_offset: -44                         # modify as needed for bltouch location&#xA;# y_offset: -6                          # modify as needed for bltouch location&#xA;x_offset: -28                           # For the sprite&#xA;y_offset: -40                           # For the sprite&#xA;#z_offset: 0.0                         # modify as needed for bltouch or run PROBE_CALIBRATE&#xA;speed: 10&#xA;sample_retract_dist: 5.0              # Can be set lower, example 2.5 depending on height of bltouch from bed&#xA;lift_speed: 40&#xA;samples_tolerance_retries: 3&#xA;speed: 10&#xA;samples: 1&#xA;&#xA;[bed_mesh]&#xA;speed: 80&#xA;horizontal_move_z: 5&#xA;mesh_min: 18,18&#xA;mesh_max: 175,202&#xA;probe_count: 5,5&#xA;algorithm: bicubic&#xA;&#xA;# manual Bed adjustment via BED_SCREWS_ADJUST&#xA;[bed_screws]&#xA;screw1: 72.5, 41.5&#xA;screw1_name: front left screw&#xA;screw2: 198.5,35.5&#xA;screw2_name: front right screw&#xA;screw3: 198.5,205.5&#xA;screw3_name: rear right screw&#xA;screw4: 28.5,205.5&#xA;screw4_name: rear left screw&#xA;horizontal_move_z: 10&#xA;speed: 50&#xA;&#xA;[screws_tilt_adjust]&#xA;screw1: 72.5, 41.5&#xA;screw1_name: front left screw&#xA;screw2: 220,41.5&#xA;screw2_name: front right screw&#xA;screw3: 220,212.5&#xA;screw3_name: rear right screw&#xA;screw4: 72.5,212.5&#xA;screw4_name: rear left screw&#xA;horizontal_move_z: 10&#xA;speed: 50&#xA;screw_thread: CW-M4&#xA;&#xA;[input_shaper]&#xA;shaper_freq_x: 100&#xA;shaper_freq_y: 100&#xA;shaper_type: mzv&#xA;&#xA;[gcode_macro G29]&#xA;gcode:&#xA;    G28&#xA;    BED_MESH_CALIBRATE&#xA;    G0 X0 Y0 Z10 F6000&#xA;    BED_MESH_PROFILE save=default&#xA;    SAVE_CONFIG&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;[extruder]&#xA;max_extrude_only_distance: 100.0&#xA;step_pin: PB3&#xA;dir_pin: PB4&#xA;enable_pin: !PC3&#xA;microsteps: 16&#xA;rotation_distance: 33.500&#xA;nozzle_diameter: 0.400&#xA;filament_diameter: 1.750&#xA;heater_pin: PA1&#xA;sensor_type: EPCOS 100K B57560G104F&#xA;sensor_pin: PC5&#xA;control: pid&#xA;pid_Kp: 21.527&#xA;pid_Ki: 1.063&#xA;pid_Kd: 108.982&#xA;min_temp: 0&#xA;max_temp: 250&#xA;&#xA;[heater_bed]&#xA;heater_pin: PA2&#xA;sensor_type: EPCOS 100K B57560G104F&#xA;sensor_pin: PC4&#xA;control: pid&#xA;pid_Kp: 54.027&#xA;pid_Ki: 0.770&#xA;pid_Kd: 948.182&#xA;min_temp: 0&#xA;max_temp: 130&#xA;&#xA;#[fan]&#xA;#pin: PA0&#xA;&#xA;[fan]&#xA;pin: PA0&#xA;&#xA;[mcu]&#xA;serial: /dev/serial/by-id/usb-1a86_USB_Serial-if00-port0&#xA;restart_method: command&#xA;&#xA;[printer]&#xA;kinematics: cartesian&#xA;max_velocity: 300&#xA;max_accel: 3000&#xA;max_accel_to_decel: 3000&#xA;max_z_velocity: 5&#xA;max_z_accel: 100&#xA;&#xA;[display]&#xA;lcd_type: st7920&#xA;cs_pin: PB12&#xA;sclk_pin: PB13&#xA;sid_pin: PB15&#xA;encoder_pins: ^PB14, ^PB10&#xA;click_pin: ^!PB2&#xA;&#xA;[gcode_macro G29]&#xA;gcode:&#xA;    G28&#xA;    G1 Z10 F600&#xA;    BED_MESH_CLEAR&#xA;    BED_MESH_CALIBRATE&#xA;    BED_MESH_PROFILE SAVE=default&#xA;    SAVE_CONFIG&#xA;&#xA;[temperature_sensor raspberry_pi]&#xA;sensor_type: temperature_host&#xA;min_temp: 10&#xA;max_temp: 100&#xA;&#xA;[temperature_sensor mcu_temp]&#xA;sensor_type: temperature_mcu&#xA;min_temp: 0&#xA;max_temp: 100&#xA;&#xA;[board_pins]&#xA;aliases:&#xA;  EXP1_1=PC6,EXP1_3=PB10,EXP1_5=PB14,EXP1_7=PB12,EXP1_9=&amp;lt;GND&amp;gt;,&#xA;  EXP1_2=PB2,EXP1_4=PB11,EXP1_6=PB13,EXP1_8=PB15,EXP1_10=&amp;lt;5V&amp;gt;,&#xA;  PROBE_IN=PB0,PROBE_OUT=PB1,FIL_RUNOUT=PC6&#xA;&#xA;[exclude_object]&#xA;&#xA;[include mainsail.cfg]&#xA;[include timelapse.cfg]&#xA;&#xA;[gcode_macro do_the_mesh]&#xA;gcode:&#xA;  BED_MESH_PROFILE LOAD=&amp;quot;default&amp;quot;&#xA;  SKEW_PROFILE LOAD=my_skew_profile&#xA;&#xA;description: Either load the default mesh or perform a mesh load operation.&#xA;&#xA;#*# &amp;lt;---------------------- SAVE_CONFIG ----------------------&amp;gt;&#xA;#*# DO NOT EDIT THIS BLOCK OR BELOW. The contents are auto-generated.&#xA;#*#&#xA;#*# [bltouch]&#xA;#*# z_offset = 1.420&#xA;#*#&#xA;#*# [bed_mesh default]&#xA;#*# version = 1&#xA;#*# points =&#xA;#*#       0.005000, -0.022500, -0.015000, -0.015000, -0.017500&#xA;#*#       0.032500, -0.022500, -0.015000, -0.042500, -0.047500&#xA;#*#       0.105000, 0.022500, 0.020000, -0.045000, -0.077500&#xA;#*#       0.140000, 0.080000, 0.055000, 0.015000, 0.022500&#xA;#*#       0.225000, 0.182500, 0.147500, 0.077500, 0.067500&#xA;#*# x_count = 5&#xA;#*# y_count = 5&#xA;#*# mesh_x_pps = 2&#xA;#*# mesh_y_pps = 2&#xA;#*# algo = bicubic&#xA;#*# tension = 0.2&#xA;#*# min_x = 18.0&#xA;#*# max_x = 175.0&#xA;#*# min_y = 18.0&#xA;#*# max_y = 202.0&#xA;#*#&#xA;#*# [skew_correction my_skew_profile]&#xA;#*# xy_skew = -0.0008053242270892168&#xA;#*# xz_skew = 0.0&#xA;#*# yz_skew = 0.0&#xA;&lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;```&lt;/span&gt;&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40183" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2024-03-04T15:35:12.503" LastActivityDate="2024-03-04T15:35:12.503" Title="Creality Sprite Pro Immediately starts heating hotend on startup" Tags="|creality-ender-3|hotend|klipper|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23118" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23117" CreationDate="2024-03-04T11:44:13.393" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;After much gnashing of teeth, I determined that the problem revolved around the Z-stop wire from the 40 conductor cable being connected.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Sprite Pro is equipped with a 5-pin BL Touch connector. For whatever reason, having the 2-pin connector plugged into the Z-stop port causes the nozzle heater output to peg at 24 V DC.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Updated printer.cfg&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;[include moonraker_obico_macros.cfg]&#xA;# This file contains pin mappings for the Creality &amp;quot;v4.2.7&amp;quot; board. To&#xA;# use this config, during &amp;quot;make menuconfig&amp;quot; select the STM32F103 with&#xA;# a &amp;quot;28KiB bootloader&amp;quot; and serial (on USART1 PA10/PA9) communication.&#xA;&#xA;# If you prefer a direct serial connection, in &amp;quot;make menuconfig&amp;quot;&#xA;# select &amp;quot;Enable extra low-level configuration options&amp;quot; and select&#xA;# serial (on USART3 PB11/PB10), which is broken out on the 10 pin IDC&#xA;# cable used for the LCD module as follows:&#xA;# 3: Tx, 4: Rx, 9: GND, 10: VCC&#xA;&#xA;# Flash this firmware by copying &amp;quot;out/klipper.bin&amp;quot; to a SD card and&#xA;# turning on the printer with the card inserted. The firmware&#xA;# filename must end in &amp;quot;.bin&amp;quot; and must not match the last filename&#xA;# that was flashed.&#xA;&#xA;# See docs/Config_Reference.md for a description of parameters.&#xA;&#xA;[skew_correction]&#xA;&#xA;# [filament_switch_sensor runout_sensor]&#xA;# pause_on_runout: True&#xA;# switch_pin: PA4&#xA;&#xA;[stepper_x]&#xA;step_pin: PB9&#xA;dir_pin: PC2&#xA;enable_pin: !PC3&#xA;microsteps: 16&#xA;rotation_distance: 39.83&#xA;endstop_pin: ^PA5&#xA;position_endstop: 0&#xA;position_max: 235&#xA;homing_speed: 50&#xA;&#xA;[stepper_y]&#xA;step_pin: PB7&#xA;dir_pin: PB8&#xA;enable_pin: !PC3&#xA;microsteps: 16&#xA;rotation_distance: 39.78&#xA;endstop_pin: ^PA6&#xA;position_endstop: 0&#xA;position_max: 235&#xA;homing_speed: 50&#xA;&#xA;[stepper_z]&#xA;step_pin: PB5&#xA;dir_pin: !PB6&#xA;enable_pin: !PC3&#xA;microsteps: 16&#xA;rotation_distance: 8&#xA;# position_endstop: 0.0                     # disable to use BLTouch&#xA;# endstop_pin: ^PA7                         # disable to use BLTouch&#xA;endstop_pin: probe:z_virtual_endstop    # enable to use BLTouch&#xA;position_min: -5                        # enable to use BLTouch&#xA;position_max: 250&#xA;&#xA;[safe_z_home]                         # enable for BLTouch&#xA;# home_xy_position: 157.5,120.5&#xA;home_xy_position: 139.5,169&#xA;speed: 100&#xA;z_hop: 10&#xA;z_hop_speed: 5&#xA;&#xA;[bltouch]                             # enable for BLTouch - fast-mode&#xA;# sensor_pin: PA7                     # 3 pin connector plus separate z endstop&#xA;sensor_pin: ^PB1                      # 5 pin connector: https://www.reddit.com/r/ender3v2/comments/pw1eyq/printercfg_with_bltouch_for_klipper/&#xA;control_pin: PB0&#xA;pin_up_touch_mode_reports_triggered: True&#xA;probe_with_touch_mode: True&#xA;# x_offset: -44                         # modify as needed for bltouch location&#xA;# y_offset: -6                          # modify as needed for bltouch location&#xA;x_offset: -30                           # For the sprite&#xA;y_offset: -41.5                         # For the sprite&#xA;#z_offset: 0.0                         # modify as needed for bltouch or run PROBE_CALIBRATE&#xA;speed: 10&#xA;sample_retract_dist: 5.0              # Can be set lower, example 2.5 depending on height of bltouch from bed&#xA;lift_speed: 40&#xA;samples_tolerance_retries: 3&#xA;speed: 10&#xA;samples: 1&#xA;&#xA;[bed_mesh]&#xA;speed: 80&#xA;horizontal_move_z: 5&#xA;mesh_min: 18,18&#xA;mesh_max: 175,202&#xA;probe_count: 5,5&#xA;algorithm: bicubic&#xA;&#xA;# manual Bed adjustment via BED_SCREWS_ADJUST&#xA;[bed_screws]&#xA;screw1: 72.5, 41.5&#xA;screw1_name: front left screw&#xA;screw2: 198.5,35.5&#xA;screw2_name: front right screw&#xA;screw3: 198.5,205.5&#xA;screw3_name: rear right screw&#xA;screw4: 28.5,205.5&#xA;screw4_name: rear left screw&#xA;horizontal_move_z: 10&#xA;speed: 50&#xA;&#xA;[screws_tilt_adjust]&#xA;screw1: 72.5, 41.5&#xA;screw1_name: front left screw&#xA;screw2: 220,41.5&#xA;screw2_name: front right screw&#xA;screw3: 220,212.5&#xA;screw3_name: rear right screw&#xA;screw4: 72.5,212.5&#xA;screw4_name: rear left screw&#xA;horizontal_move_z: 10&#xA;speed: 50&#xA;screw_thread: CW-M4&#xA;&#xA;[input_shaper]&#xA;shaper_freq_x: 100&#xA;shaper_freq_y: 100&#xA;shaper_type: mzv&#xA;&#xA;[gcode_macro G29]&#xA;gcode:&#xA;    G28&#xA;    BED_MESH_CALIBRATE&#xA;    G0 X0 Y0 Z10 F6000&#xA;    BED_MESH_PROFILE save=default&#xA;    SAVE_CONFIG&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;[extruder]&#xA;max_extrude_only_distance: 100.0&#xA;step_pin: PB3&#xA;dir_pin: PB4&#xA;enable_pin: !PC3&#xA;microsteps: 16&#xA;# rotation_distance: 33.500  # for stock extruder&#xA;rotation_distance: 7.53      # for sprite pro&#xA;nozzle_diameter: 0.400&#xA;filament_diameter: 1.750&#xA;heater_pin: PA1&#xA;sensor_type: EPCOS 100K B57560G104F&#xA;sensor_pin: PC5&#xA;#control: pid&#xA;#pid_Kp: 21.527&#xA;#pid_Ki: 1.063&#xA;#pid_Kd: 108.982&#xA;min_temp: 0&#xA;max_temp: 250&#xA;&#xA;[heater_bed]&#xA;heater_pin: PA2&#xA;sensor_type: EPCOS 100K B57560G104F&#xA;sensor_pin: PC4&#xA;control: pid&#xA;pid_Kp: 54.027&#xA;pid_Ki: 0.770&#xA;pid_Kd: 948.182&#xA;min_temp: 0&#xA;max_temp: 130&#xA;&#xA;#[fan]&#xA;#pin: PA0&#xA;&#xA;[fan]&#xA;pin: PA0&#xA;&#xA;[mcu]&#xA;serial: /dev/serial/by-id/usb-1a86_USB_Serial-if00-port0&#xA;restart_method: command&#xA;&#xA;[printer]&#xA;kinematics: cartesian&#xA;max_velocity: 300&#xA;max_accel: 3000&#xA;max_accel_to_decel: 3000&#xA;max_z_velocity: 5&#xA;max_z_accel: 100&#xA;&#xA;[display]&#xA;lcd_type: st7920&#xA;cs_pin: PB12&#xA;sclk_pin: PB13&#xA;sid_pin: PB15&#xA;encoder_pins: ^PB14, ^PB10&#xA;click_pin: ^!PB2&#xA;&#xA;[gcode_macro G29]&#xA;gcode:&#xA;    G28&#xA;    G1 Z10 F600&#xA;    BED_MESH_CLEAR&#xA;    BED_MESH_CALIBRATE&#xA;    BED_MESH_PROFILE SAVE=default&#xA;    SAVE_CONFIG&#xA;&#xA;[temperature_sensor raspberry_pi]&#xA;sensor_type: temperature_host&#xA;min_temp: 10&#xA;max_temp: 100&#xA;&#xA;[temperature_sensor mcu_temp]&#xA;sensor_type: temperature_mcu&#xA;min_temp: 0&#xA;max_temp: 100&#xA;&#xA;[board_pins]&#xA;aliases:&#xA;  EXP1_1=PC6,EXP1_3=PB10,EXP1_5=PB14,EXP1_7=PB12,EXP1_9=&amp;lt;GND&amp;gt;,&#xA;  EXP1_2=PB2,EXP1_4=PB11,EXP1_6=PB13,EXP1_8=PB15,EXP1_10=&amp;lt;5V&amp;gt;,&#xA;  PROBE_IN=PB0,PROBE_OUT=PB1,FIL_RUNOUT=PC6&#xA;&#xA;[exclude_object]&#xA;&#xA;[include mainsail.cfg]&#xA;[include timelapse.cfg]&#xA;&#xA;[gcode_macro do_the_mesh]&#xA;gcode:&#xA;  BED_MESH_PROFILE LOAD=&amp;quot;default&amp;quot;&#xA;  SKEW_PROFILE LOAD=my_skew_profile&#xA;&#xA;description: Either load the default mesh or perform a mesh load operation.&#xA;&#xA;#*# &amp;lt;---------------------- SAVE_CONFIG ----------------------&amp;gt;&#xA;#*# DO NOT EDIT THIS BLOCK OR BELOW. The contents are auto-generated.&#xA;#*#&#xA;#*# [bltouch]&#xA;#*# z_offset = 4.350&#xA;#*#&#xA;#*# [bed_mesh default]&#xA;#*# version = 1&#xA;#*# points =&#xA;#*#     0.005000, -0.022500, -0.015000, -0.015000, -0.017500&#xA;#*#     0.032500, -0.022500, -0.015000, -0.042500, -0.047500&#xA;#*#     0.105000, 0.022500, 0.020000, -0.045000, -0.077500&#xA;#*#     0.140000, 0.080000, 0.055000, 0.015000, 0.022500&#xA;#*#     0.225000, 0.182500, 0.147500, 0.077500, 0.067500&#xA;#*# x_count = 5&#xA;#*# y_count = 5&#xA;#*# mesh_x_pps = 2&#xA;#*# mesh_y_pps = 2&#xA;#*# algo = bicubic&#xA;#*# tension = 0.2&#xA;#*# min_x = 18.0&#xA;#*# max_x = 175.0&#xA;#*# min_y = 18.0&#xA;#*# max_y = 202.0&#xA;#*#&#xA;#*# [skew_correction my_skew_profile]&#xA;#*# xy_skew = -0.0008053242270892168&#xA;#*# xz_skew = 0.0&#xA;#*# yz_skew = 0.0&#xA;#*#&#xA;#*# [extruder]&#xA;#*# control = pid&#xA;#*# pid_kp = 19.488&#xA;#*# pid_ki = 1.101&#xA;#*# pid_kd = 86.236&#xA;&lt;span class=&quot;math-container&quot;&gt;```&lt;/span&gt;&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40183" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2024-03-04T15:30:49.183" LastActivityDate="2024-03-04T15:30:49.183" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23119" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23120" CreationDate="2024-03-04T11:54:16.633" Score="4" ViewCount="200" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently started experimenting with sending G-code to my printer via USB cable. I downloaded &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/kliment/Printrun&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Printrun&lt;/a&gt; and it works great! &lt;strong&gt;However, I want to be able to do this from my web browser because the app im developing is web based.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found this Chrome app called &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/sir-buckyball/chrome-gcode-sender&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;chrome-gcode-sender&lt;/a&gt; that does this but it unfortunately no longer works because Google sadly ended support for all Chrome apps in June 2022.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The maker of this app &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/sir-buckyball/chrome-gcode-sender/issues/57#issuecomment-1263096900&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;suggested on GitHub&lt;/a&gt; that the same thing should be achievable using &lt;a href=&quot;https://developer.mozilla.org/en-US/docs/Web/API/Web_Serial_API&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Web Serial API&lt;/a&gt;. I have been trying to get this to work for almost two days now but with little success. I found several tutorials online about how to use Web Serial API but nothing for this specific use case. &lt;strong&gt;Here is a sample of the code I have developed so far, just a simple HTML document with some vanilla JavaScript:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;&amp;lt;html&amp;gt;&#xA;  &amp;lt;head&amp;gt;&#xA;    &amp;lt;title&amp;gt;Web Serial API Demo&amp;lt;/title&amp;gt;&#xA;  &amp;lt;/head&amp;gt;&#xA;  &amp;lt;body&amp;gt;&#xA;    &amp;lt;button id=&amp;quot;connect&amp;quot;&amp;gt;Connect&amp;lt;/button&amp;gt;&#xA;    &amp;lt;script&amp;gt;&#xA;&#xA;        var device&#xA;        let button = document.getElementById(&amp;quot;connect&amp;quot;)&#xA;&#xA;        document.addEventListener(&amp;quot;DOMContentLoaded&amp;quot;, event =&amp;gt; {&#xA;            button.addEventListener(&amp;quot;click&amp;quot;, async() =&amp;gt; {&#xA;                try {&#xA;&#xA;                    device = await navigator.serial.requestPort()&#xA;&#xA;                    await device.open({baudRate: 9600})&#xA;&#xA;                    console.log(&amp;quot;Opened: &amp;quot;, device)&#xA;                    console.log(&amp;quot;Info: &amp;quot;, device.getInfo())&#xA;&#xA;                    const encoder = new TextEncoder()&#xA;                    const writer = device.writable.getWriter()&#xA;&#xA;                    await writer.write(encoder.encode(&amp;quot;G28&amp;quot;))&#xA;&#xA;                    writer.releaseLock()&#xA;&#xA;                    await device.close()&#xA;&#xA;                } catch (error) {&#xA;&#xA;                    console.log(error)&#xA;&#xA;                }&#xA;            })&#xA;        })&#xA;&#xA;    &amp;lt;/script&amp;gt;&#xA;  &amp;lt;/body&amp;gt;&#xA;&amp;lt;/html&amp;gt;&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I click the 'Connect' button and select the device I want it appears to connect fine. However, when I try to send a simple G-code like &lt;code&gt;G28&lt;/code&gt; (&lt;em&gt;autohome&lt;/em&gt;) the printer does nothing. If anyone has an idea how I could get this working please let me know! Im also 100 % open to an alternative approach! &lt;strong&gt;The main idea is just to be able to send G-code from a browser to a printer.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Notes:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I've also tried experimenting with &lt;a href=&quot;https://developer.mozilla.org/en-US/docs/Web/API/WebUSB_API&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Web USB API&lt;/a&gt; but no luck here as well.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27036" LastEditorUserId="27036" LastEditDate="2024-03-04T18:57:15.757" LastActivityDate="2024-03-23T17:58:09.460" Title="Can I use Web Serial API to send G-code to my Ender 5 Pro?" Tags="|g-code|creality-ender-5|usb|serial-connection|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23120" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23119" CreationDate="2024-03-04T13:16:17.160" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Finally, got it! I was very close, but two changes needed to be made to the above code for the example to work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;code&gt;baudRate&lt;/code&gt; needed to be changed to &lt;code&gt;115200&lt;/code&gt;. This value can vary from printer to printer but &lt;code&gt;115200&lt;/code&gt; is fairly common, and thus a good default. If you find it's not working for you try looking up the recommended &lt;code&gt;baudRate&lt;/code&gt; for your printer/firmware version.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I needed to add &lt;code&gt;\n&lt;/code&gt; to the end of my G-code string. In this example there was only one command, &lt;code&gt;G28\n&lt;/code&gt; but if you want multiple commands in a single string you will need to add &lt;code&gt;\n&lt;/code&gt; after each one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Awesome!!! It is possible to send G-code to a printer from a web browser with just a few lines of JavaScript!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update:&lt;/strong&gt; If anyone is interested I built &lt;a href=&quot;https://jgphilpott.github.io/polyslice/serial/browser/sender.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this simple terminal-style app&lt;/a&gt;. It should work with any &lt;a href=&quot;https://developer.mozilla.org/en-US/docs/Web/API/Web_Serial_API#browser_compatibility&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;compatible browser&lt;/a&gt; and is also usable offline if you clone the repo and open the &lt;code&gt;sender.html&lt;/code&gt; file in your browser.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27036" LastEditorUserId="27036" LastEditDate="2024-03-23T17:58:09.460" LastActivityDate="2024-03-23T17:58:09.460" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23121" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2024-03-04T17:51:20.167" Score="0" ViewCount="79" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am trying to add a second extruder motor to my Ender 3 V2 so I can use both independently.&#xA;My Ender 3 V2 has an SKR Mini E3 v3 build in.&#xA;I have seen the post &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.reddit.com/r/BIGTREETECH/comments/x8hyff/skr_mini_e3_v3_additional_tmc2208_5_stepper/?sort=new&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;SKR Mini E3 v3 + additional TMC2208 = 5 stepper drivers (works!)&lt;/a&gt; and tried to build it. But now I am stuck building the Marlin firmware.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has anybody done this before, or know how to do that?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="41322" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2024-03-05T04:05:10.383" LastActivityDate="2024-03-12T13:02:34.470" Title="Add 5th stepper driver to the SKR mini E3 v3 to use it for a second extruder motor" Tags="|creality-ender-3|marlin|stepper-driver|creality|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23122" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23128" CreationDate="2024-03-04T20:00:28.877" Score="7" ViewCount="123" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am getting this under extrusion on my prints but only after travel moves. The rest of the print looks fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GpCLg.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GpCLg.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NugLo.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NugLo.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My printer is a Monoprice Maker Select V2 (rebranded Wanhao Duplicator i3 V2) with a DiiiCooler with a radial fan. I was using Repetier 0.92.9 but have upgraded the firmware to Marlin bugfix-2.1.x commit 9e879a5b.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm using Cura 5.6.0 and the default Draft profile with the following settings changed:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wall Thickness: 1.2 mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Print Thin Walls: True&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Infill Density: 10%&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Infill Pattern: gyroid&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Print Speed: 50 mm/s&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Travel Speed: 150 mm/s&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Initial Layer Print Speed: 20 mm/s&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm printing with Inland Turquoise PLA at 215 °C and the build plate at 60 °C.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am printing &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4653297&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Kersey Fabrications Speed Test&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm pulling my hair out. I've tried the following without making much headway:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Completely disabled retraction - made the problem worse&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Replaced the nozzle with a Micro Swiss Nickel Plated Brass 0.4 mm Nozzle for PTFE lined hotend and replaced the PTFE tube - no improvement&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lowered the temperature to 205 °C - no improvement&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Changed firmware from Repetier 0.92.9 to Marlin bugfix-2.1.x commit 9e879a5b - no improvement&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Enabled linear advance and tuned it using &lt;a href=&quot;https://ellis3dp.com/Print-Tuning-Guide/articles/pressure_linear_advance/pattern_method.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;these instructions&lt;/a&gt;. The test pattern looked best at 0.25 but that only made a slight improvement to the issue&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Set &amp;quot;Max Comb Distance With No Retract&amp;quot; to 10 mm - slight improvement&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tried different filament (Inland Black PLA+) - no improvement&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Disabled &amp;quot;Print Thin Walls&amp;quot; - no improvement&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lowered part cooling fan speed to 25% - no improvement&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Changed the following: - no improvement&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Printing acceleration 600-&amp;gt;1500&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Retract acceleration 3000-&amp;gt;2000&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Travel acceleration 3000-&amp;gt;2000&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Junction deviation 0.2-&amp;gt;0.1&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lowered &amp;quot;E maximum acceleration&amp;quot; from 10000-&amp;gt;100 - no improvement&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Checked the extruder gear and it was clean. It has the newer D4 style extruder gear, not the duller slightly hobbed gear that Wanhao originally used.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I did the &lt;a href=&quot;https://teachingtechyt.github.io/calibration.html#retraction&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Teaching Tech 3D Retraction Tuning&lt;/a&gt; with a base feedrate of 60 mm/s.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the first print, I did 0.5-3 mm distance, 50 mm/s retract, 20 mm/s advance. There was very slight stringing at 0.5 mm and none in the other sections. All of the sections had slightly jagged edges except for 1 mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the second print, I did 1 mm distance, 20-70 mm/s retract, 20 mm/s advance. There was no stringing and I didn't see any apparent difference between the sections.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the third print, I did 1 mm distance, 50 mm/s retract, 10-50 mm/s advance. Again, no stringing and no differences between the sections.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;None of the three prints showed any signs of under-extrusion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I printed the &lt;a href=&quot;https://teachingtechyt.github.io/calibration.html#accel&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Teaching Tech 3D Acceleration Tuning Tower&lt;/a&gt; and it has the same under extrusion issue in the back left corner inner wall. This would seem to rule out any slicer settings being the cause of this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YxG6q.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YxG6q.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I took apart the extruder and found that the v-groove idler wheel that pushes the filament against the extruder gear was full of grease.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KGjm7.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KGjm7.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It didn't spin freely, it turned but felt mushy. I cleaned the grease from the wheel and the surrounding area and added a drop of sewing machine oil to each side of the wheel. After that, it spun freely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did a cold check of my extruder steps with the extruder removed and found that it matched what I found earlier when I checked it hot through the hotend.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After reassembling the extruder, I reprinted the acceleration tuning tower from the same G-code as before but I saw no improvement to the under extrusion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I took apart the hot end and replaced the PTFE tube again. I was very careful to cut it perfectly straight and exactly the right length so that it was touching each end but not compressed. I also added Kingpin Cooling KPx thermal grease between the heat break tube and the cooling block and between the cooling block and the heatsink. After reassembling everything, I printed the acceleration tuning tower again but saw no improvement.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Printed the acceleration tuning tower at 30 mm/s, 0.5 mm retract, and 0.13 linear advance - no improvement&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Printed the acceleration tuning tower at 225 °C, 195 °C, and 185 °C - no improvement&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Checked extruder stepper current voltage reference on the Melzi board. I had adjusted the voltage for all four steppers years ago. The extruder stepper is rated for 1.02 A but the voltage reference was set to 0.695 V (0.87 A 85% of rated). It should be set to 90%. Either I set it wrong or it had drifted even though the other three were correct). I tried printing with it set to the factory setting of 0.886 V (1.1 A 109%) and the correct 0.734 V (0.92 A 90%) - no improvement either way&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;As suggested in the comments, printed the acceleration tuning tower with linear advance set to 0.04 and retraction distance set to 0.4 mm - no improvement.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="42657" LastEditorUserId="42657" LastEditDate="2024-03-06T20:35:07.977" LastActivityDate="2024-03-11T19:37:13.943" Title="What is causing this under extrusion that only happens after travel moves" Tags="|extruder|underextrusion|retraction|monoprice-maker-select|wanhao|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="13" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23123" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3129" CreationDate="2024-03-05T21:21:05.933" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was using network cables, for a new tool head (a stealth burner). I needed 14 wires, so two cables would be amazing, as I would have access to 16 wires, at 23 AWG, with an amazing rate of current for everything I needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Observation: Some network cables are 24 AWG, so be aware.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I remade the cable five times, and I am going for the sixth. It always broke something, and I thought it was due to so many mistakes that I made myself. It looks like my big mistake was using these cables for moving parts - they are not suitable, for moving, and will break overtime.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of the mistakes I thought what that I was using solid core, and then I switched to flexible network cable, but same thing - it just broke on me, for the fifth time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So this time I will waste a few hours researching for a good flexible cable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I might be wrong, and I might have made a mistake in another area. I will come back and tell you guys if it's the case. However, I truly believe the cable that I used was my biggest mistake.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Network cables are amazing - just don't put them on anything that moves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="42670" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2024-03-06T19:21:16.347" LastActivityDate="2024-03-06T19:21:16.347" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23124" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2024-03-06T20:27:36.737" Score="0" ViewCount="33" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am trying to create a test model for a project I am working on and am confused about why this is slicing like this. In Blender, I used the difference boolean to cut a hole in the cylinder on the side of the cube and I deleted the faces of the cylinder and the cube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have uploaded the Blender and the .stl files and made them available:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://ufile.io/2zxzqctg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Blender file&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://ufile.io/ch5ouz3o&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;STL file&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="42684" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2024-03-07T04:22:43.813" LastActivityDate="2024-03-07T04:22:43.813" Title="Using Blender for design and Cura for slicing; trying to figure out why this is slicing this way" Tags="|ultimaker-cura|blender|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23125" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3129" CreationDate="2024-03-06T20:29:05.483" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It would be best to use stranded wire, since the cables will be subjected to constant motion.  The service life will be higher.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Connector current is a issue.  My experiments in years past with connectors is that up to 2 amps it is unlikely to be a problem.  But pin materials and formulations change.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Were this my printer, I would look for commonalities.  For instance, does the thermistor have any direct signals in common with the Z sensor?  Avoiding loops is good, so don't have the wires tied together on each end.  But, if, for instance, the thermistor was connected to GND or VCC on one of the wires, and the Z-sensor had the same direct connections, I would share the line between the sensors.  This saves a wire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ideally, the rapidly switching lines would be separated in a different cable from the more static lines.  This requires knowing how the lines are driven.  For instance, the heater could be driven with a 40 KHz PWM signal, or it could be derived with a 1/2 Hz bang-bang signal.  The fans are listed as 2 wire rather than 3 or 4 wire, so rotation feedback may not be used.  The fans are likely to he a high-frequence PWM, which is more likely to interfere with the sensors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The motors are definitely driven with a high-frequence PWM signal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you could consider using 3 cat6 cables, you might use:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cable 1, pair 1: motor A winding&#xA;Cable 1, pair 2: motor B winding&#xA;Cable 1, pair 3: hotend fan&#xA;Cable 1, pair 4: part fan&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cable 2, pairs 1, 2, 3, and 4: heater, each pair carries the two lines so that everything remains balanced.   One pair could be reallocated in the future if needed, but best to have the current capacity if available.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cable 3: pair 1: thermistor&#xA;Cable 3: pairs 2 and 3: Z-sensor. Double the GND wire, one per pair&#xA;Cable 3: pair 4: spare&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2082" LastActivityDate="2024-03-06T20:29:05.483" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23126" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23124" CreationDate="2024-03-06T20:57:05.990" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not a Blender user but the STL file shows a zero wall thickness on the cylinder and no closure to the cylinder. If you close the cylinder, you should be able to test for 3D printable status with a built-in feature of Blender.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Image below is screen capture from Meshmixer user created content:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xBDDM.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xBDDM.png&quot; alt=&quot;test stl image&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's a YouTube video that addresses the 3D print tools, &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/-OynHqYd_1I?si=mF_CDqyzdiGk0bii&amp;amp;t=481&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;auto-starting at 8:01&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your objective is to have an open cylinder and cube, it is necessary to offset the walls inward or outward to create thickness. Also ensure that the offset walls are closed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastActivityDate="2024-03-06T20:57:05.990" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23127" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2024-03-07T03:16:49.207" Score="0" ViewCount="24" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm using an SKR 1.4 turbo with a Tronxy X5SA 500 Pro, TMC2209 stepper drivers with the dialogue pins cut because I'm using physical limit switches instead of sensor-less homing. The Z-axis moves up and down fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I try to home it it doesn't move. I don't know why. Everything else is working and I confirmed the limit switches work with the &lt;code&gt;M119&lt;/code&gt; command. Someone please help. I'm certain it is in the firmware. I pulled the stepper driver for the Z and made sure it was clipped short enough. Actually, it's the shortest of all four. Also, I'm working with dual Z-limit switches. And I have an inductive Z probe on the nozzle. But I have disabled the probe in the software. My main goal is to home Z to the limit switches right now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone have any ideas or commands I can run? I'm running the most recent stable version of Marlin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="42687" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2024-03-07T04:19:59.590" LastActivityDate="2024-03-07T04:19:59.590" Title="My Z axis isn't moving when I home it but it moves on TFT display and Pronterface" Tags="|marlin|skr-v1.4|tmc2209|tronxy|tronxy-x5sa|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23128" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23122" CreationDate="2024-03-07T19:38:55.070" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Printing with a brand new roll of Polymaker PolyLite grey PLA seems to have fixed the problem. I'll have to redo all of my tuning and do some more tests, but there's no sign of the under extrusion so far.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I ran out of the Inland turquoise PLA doing all my testing but I have tried drying the Inland black PLA+. I've dried it a total of 36 hours now at 50 °C and it made no improvement to the under extrusion issue. 24 hours of that was in a Sunlu S1 filament dryer (the original model without a fan) in 6 and 12 hour increments. 12 hours of that was in a convection toaster oven converted to a reflow oven with a &lt;a href=&quot;https://whizoo.com/products/controleo3-reflow-oven-controller&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Controleo3 kit&lt;/a&gt;. I tried drying with and without desiccant packs in both the filament dryer and the reflow oven.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know how or why the filament degraded but it does not seem to be due to any current moisture content.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="42657" LastEditorUserId="42657" LastEditDate="2024-03-11T19:37:13.943" LastActivityDate="2024-03-11T19:37:13.943" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23130" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2024-03-08T15:01:20.723" Score="0" ViewCount="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Bambu A1 Mini.  My daughter often prints with it, and enjoys doing all of the little tasks involved with printing like switching nozzles.  She does the process proficiently while I observe, but I often have to remind her to go into the maintenance menu to change the nozzle setting afterwards.  Is there any damage that can be done by failing to properly set that configuration?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="39118" LastActivityDate="2024-03-08T15:01:20.723" Title="Can I damage the Bambu A1 Mini by selecting the wrong nozzle size in settings?" Tags="|nozzle|bambu-lab-a1-mini|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23131" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2024-03-07T17:22:10.460" Score="1" ViewCount="65" Body="&lt;p&gt;Recently a bunch of Anycubic 3D printers have been hacked as reported in an article from  &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.bleepingcomputer.com/news/security/anycubic-3d-printers-hacked-worldwide-to-expose-security-flaw/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;bleedingcomputer.com&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to a wave of online reports from Anycubic customers, someone hacked their 3D printers to warn that the devices are exposed to attacks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to the same text file, 2,934,635 devices downloaded this warning message via the vulnerable API.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7EH0D.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7EH0D.png&quot; alt=&quot;hacked_machine_readme.gcode&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The impact in this case seems limited to only a warning using a text file that was placed on the printer. However, I can imagine a scenario where (through an intermediate host such as OctoPrint) the printer firmware can be reflashed (some OctoPlugin for example allows for remote flashing). The firmware could pose a real physical danger, for example when thermal runaway protection and heating limits are removed, or when fake temperature values are reported to the printer LCD.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is, what specific vulnerabilities or risks are associates with 3D printers or 3D printer hosts and what potential impact does it have?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36802" OwnerDisplayName="Bob Ortiz" LastEditorUserId="36802" LastEditDate="2024-03-10T09:07:21.327" LastActivityDate="2024-03-10T18:43:10.173" Title="What is the potential impact of security risks associated specifically with 3D printers or their hosts?" Tags="|octoprint|safety|security|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23132" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20138" CreationDate="2024-03-10T16:43:44.397" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you can reformat a (micro)-SD-card on a Windows PC (there are built-in system tools) and copy files to it, then you have enough skills.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Going back to the stock firmware is as easy as copying the files to an SD-card and having it inserted to the printer while it starts up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After that you have to reflash the display, but this is similar to flashing the printer, as you have to copy files on a micro-SD-card and unscrew the back of the display to get to the card-slot on the back of the display-control-board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36886" LastActivityDate="2024-03-10T16:43:44.397" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23133" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23131" CreationDate="2024-03-10T18:43:10.173" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It would be highly dependant on the exact printer and the nature of the vulnerability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using past events as a guide, we could potentially see the processing capabilities of a 3D printer used to form a botnet for a DDOS style attack. This has previously been done with compromised routers and other IOT Devices.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.computerworld.com/article/2921559/malware-infected-home-routers-used-to-launch-ddos-attacks.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Example&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We might also see printers with built in cameras being hacked to allow images to be taken inside people's homes&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.welivesecurity.com/2020/10/14/50000-home-cameras-reportedly-hacked-footage-posted-online/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Example&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hypothetically speaking, with a 3D printer, an attack might involve some form of blackmail. Forcing the company to pay money or have their products attacked in some way. For example having a malicious update pushed down to them that rendered them useless.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We could also possibly see someone doing something silly such as to have printers simply spew out spaghetti, or malicious such as having code inserted into them that would drag the nozzles across the print bed, damaging one or both of them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In an extreme case it's possible that a hacker may find a way heat up a printer until it catches fire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given that many 3D printers are wireless, it's possible that they could be harvested for wifi passwords, or for log in details to cloud accounts that contain personal information or payment details.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All of this is speculative though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="29097" LastActivityDate="2024-03-10T18:43:10.173" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23134" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2024-03-11T06:47:48.433" Score="0" ViewCount="20" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm encountering an issue while attempting to add new custom G-codes to Marlin 2.1.* firmware. Specifically, I'm aiming to introduce G-codes &lt;code&gt;M9910&lt;/code&gt; to &lt;code&gt;M9919&lt;/code&gt; into the firmware. While my implementation method has worked in Marlin 2.0, I'm facing difficulties integrating it into Marlin 2.1.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's the approach I've taken:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Configuration_adv.h:&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#define New_Custom_Gcodes&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol start=&quot;2&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;gcode.cpp:&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;// Inside GcodeSuite::process_parsed_command()&#xA;switch (parser.command_letter) {&#xA;    ....&#xA;    case 'M':&#xA;        switch (parser.codenum) {&#xA;            // Existing cases...&#xA;            #if ENABLED(New_Custom_Gcodes)&#xA;                case 9910:&#xA;                case 9911:&#xA;                case 9912:&#xA;                case 9913:&#xA;                case 9914:&#xA;                case 9915:&#xA;                case 9916:&#xA;                case 9917:&#xA;                case 9918:&#xA;                case 9919:&#xA;                    M9910_M9919(); // Define/execute G-code macro&#xA;                    break;&#xA;            #endif&#xA;            // Existing cases...&#xA;        }&#xA;    // Rest of the function...&#xA;}&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol start=&quot;3&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;gcode.h:&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;class GcodeSuite {&#xA;public:&#xA;    // Existing codes...&#xA;    #if ENABLED(New_Custom_Gcodes)&#xA;        static void M9910_M9919();&#xA;    #endif&#xA;};&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol start=&quot;4&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I've created a new file named M9910_M9919.cpp under Marlin\src\gcode\control, M9910_M9919.cpp:&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#include &amp;quot;../../inc/MarlinConfig.h&amp;quot;&#xA;&#xA;#if ENABLED(New_Custom_Gcodes)&#xA;&#xA;#include &amp;quot;../gcode.h&amp;quot;&#xA;#include &amp;quot;../queue.h&amp;quot;&#xA;#include &amp;quot;../parser.h&amp;quot;&#xA;&#xA;void GcodeSuite::M9910_M9919() {&#xA;    // Execute Custom G-codes&#xA;    switch (parser.codenum - 9910) {&#xA;        case 0:&#xA;            // Do something&#xA;            break;&#xA;        case 1:&#xA;            // Do something&#xA;            break;&#xA;        // Cases for M9911, M9912, ..., M9919&#xA;        default:&#xA;            break;&#xA;    }&#xA;}&#xA;&#xA;#endif&#xA;&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Despite these steps, I'm encountering the following error during the linking stage:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;c:/users/****/.platformio/packages/toolchain-gccarmnoneeabi/bin/../lib/gcc/arm-none-eabi/9.2.1/../../../../arm-none-eabi/bin/ld.exe: .pio/build/STM32H723ZE_btt/src/src/gcode/gcode.cpp.o: in function `GcodeSuite::process_parsed_command(bool)':&#xA;C:\Users\***\***\***\***\Marlin-bugfix-2.1.x/Marlin\src\gcode/gcode.cpp:1123: undefined reference to `GcodeSuite::M9910_M9919()'&#xA;collect2.exe: error: ld returned 1 exit status&#xA;&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I understand that this error suggests that the linker cannot find a reference to the M9910_M9919 function, indicating a problem with its definition or how it's being referenced, however I couldn't find what is the mistake in this case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd greatly appreciate any insights or suggestions on resolving this issue. If there's anything I've overlooked or if there are specific changes in Marlin 2.1.* that may affect how custom G-codes are integrated, please let me know.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40366" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2024-03-11T07:07:40.877" LastActivityDate="2024-03-11T07:07:40.877" Title="Undefined Reference Error on compiling when Integrating New Custom G-Codes into Marlin 2.1" Tags="|marlin|firmware|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23135" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20857" CreationDate="2024-03-11T12:34:12.680" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;A possible fix that worked for me is to convert your SD card from GPT to MBR.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Modern systems will usually initialize them in GPT, which seems to be incompatible with Creality boards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At least with my 4.2.7 board, this was the solution. And obviously, it has to be formatted in FAT32.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Instructions on how to do it are available at &lt;a href=&quot;https://learn.microsoft.com/en-us/windows-server/storage/disk-management/change-a-gpt-disk-into-an-mbr-disk&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Convert a GPT disk into an MBR disk&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think it's worth a try.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="42717" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2024-03-11T14:13:09.120" LastActivityDate="2024-03-11T14:13:09.120" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23136" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23070" CreationDate="2024-03-12T04:48:30.507" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think this is an issue with Marlin v2.1.2.2, which I was trying to use. &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/issues/26809&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/issues/26809&lt;/a&gt; this issue points to another bug with probing. My issue is different, but downgrading to 2.1.1 solved it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="41438" LastActivityDate="2024-03-12T04:48:30.507" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23138" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23121" CreationDate="2024-03-12T13:02:34.470" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is not that difficult, but you need some experience in configuring and compiling (Marlin) firmware.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In fact, you already linked to the solution. From the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.reddit.com/r/BIGTREETECH/comments/x8hyff/skr_mini_e3_v3_additional_tmc2208_5_stepper/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;link&lt;/a&gt; you see that the person used the following pins to connect to the separate stepper driver on the breadboard:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;div class=&quot;s-table-container&quot;&gt;&lt;table class=&quot;s-table&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;thead&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;th&gt;Wire&lt;/th&gt;&#xA;&lt;th&gt;Description&lt;/th&gt;&#xA;&lt;th&gt;SKR pin&lt;/th&gt;&#xA;&lt;th&gt;Stepper pin&lt;/th&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;/thead&gt;&#xA;&lt;tbody&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;GND&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;ground&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;PD4&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;DIR&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Vio&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;3.3v on SPI1 header&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;PD5&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;STEP&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;OB2&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;to motor M2B&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;n/c&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;CLK&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;OB1&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;to motor M2A&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;either one&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;PDN_UART&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;OA1&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;to motor M1B&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;either one&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;PDN_UART&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;OA2&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;to motor M1A&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;n/c&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;MS2&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;GND&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;ground&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;n/c&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;MS1&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Vm&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;to 24v from PS&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;PD0&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;ENN&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tbody&gt;&#xA;&lt;/table&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In words, what you're seeing here is that I am taking 3.3v and ground from the SPI header, and taking the pins we need for STEP, DIR, ENN (enable), and the UART from the &amp;quot;I/O&amp;quot; connector. Add 24v power (and ground) from the power supply.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now about the UART cable. You'd need to fashion a cable to go from one of the TMC2208's &amp;quot;PDN_UART&amp;quot; cable, split into two wires, one of which has a 1k resistor. The side without the resistor goes to PD2 and the one with the resistor goes to PD3.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Last thing, not shown but rather important: a 100uF electrolytic capacitor rated for 35v or higher. This will bridge the 24v and ground lines and should be close to the driver. I don't really need it for proof of concept but when driving actual loads during actual prints it's gonna be important.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also had the idea of using the EXP1 connector's pins too. (As a klipper user, my e3v2's fancy screen don't work anyway.) Could fashion a single plug to hook up all the needed wires save for power. Wound up leaving that option open for the future.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you are altering the board (adding a stepper) I'd prefer to define the extra stepper in the &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/blob/bugfix-2.1.x/Marlin/src/pins/stm32g0/pins_BTT_SKR_MINI_E3_V3_0.h&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;SKR Mini E3 v3.0&lt;/a&gt; pin specification file.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;E.g. append the stepper section to read:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;//&#xA;// Steppers&#xA;//&#xA;#define X_ENABLE_PIN                        PB14&#xA;#define X_STEP_PIN                          PB13&#xA;#define X_DIR_PIN                           PB12&#xA;&#xA;#define Y_ENABLE_PIN                        PB11&#xA;#define Y_STEP_PIN                          PB10&#xA;#define Y_DIR_PIN                           PB2&#xA;&#xA;#define Z_ENABLE_PIN                        PB1&#xA;#define Z_STEP_PIN                          PB0&#xA;#define Z_DIR_PIN                           PC5&#xA;&#xA;#define E0_ENABLE_PIN                       PD1&#xA;#define E0_STEP_PIN                         PB3&#xA;#define E0_DIR_PIN                          PB4&#xA;&#xA;#define E1_ENABLE_PIN                       PD0&#xA;#define E1_STEP_PIN                         PD5&#xA;#define E1_DIR_PIN                          PD4&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If UART is used be sure to set the &lt;code&gt;E1_HARDWARE_SERIAL&lt;/code&gt; and the &lt;code&gt;E1_SLAVE_ADDRESS&lt;/code&gt; in the section under the stepper section.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Furthermore, change the &lt;code&gt;config.h&lt;/code&gt; to include you have multiple extruders:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#define EXTRUDERS 2&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I assume you don't use 2 heaters and 2 temperature probes, so set:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#define SINGLENOZZLE &#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And select a driver type:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#define E1_DRIVER_TYPE TMC2208&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For what it's worth, or depending on your hard- and software skills, you could probably better buy a new controller board with more stepper drivers; these boards are very affordable these days.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2024-03-12T13:02:34.470" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23139" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2024-03-13T15:29:20.380" Score="0" ViewCount="29" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought and installed and uploaded the BLTouch firmware from Antclabs. When I click &amp;quot;level bed&amp;quot; it moves to homing the X and Y axes to 0 and to the middle but the probe does not extend (like its hidden all time) but when I turn on printer it lights up and do &amp;quot;dance&amp;quot; (self-test). I tried finding similar problems but every tutorial is for the Ender Pro; I have an Ender 3 (normal) not Pro or anything like that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="42732" LastEditorUserId="42732" LastEditDate="2024-03-15T16:06:44.960" LastActivityDate="2024-03-15T16:06:44.960" Title="BLTouch problem with pin deployment" Tags="|creality-ender-3|bltouch|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23140" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2024-03-14T08:41:24.830" Score="0" ViewCount="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have tried to add a base to teeth model. I am not fan of using extrude tool because it is slow acc. to my experience.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After selecting border, I did smooth operation on the border. After that, I have tried to use transform tool but it did not transform the border in any direction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have video tutorial to follow in youtube --&amp;gt; &lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/wwbccllatNg?start=155&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I did is that &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fx09d.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fx09d.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it related with meshmixer version? Is it a bug? Or What am I doing wrong?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23759" LastActivityDate="2024-03-14T08:41:24.830" Title="How to use transform tool in meshmixer" Tags="|meshmixer|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23141" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4647" CreationDate="2024-03-14T08:59:16.573" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm facing the same problem 6 years later, Meshlab is running out of memory during &lt;em&gt;Quadratic Edge Collapse Decimation&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's another command line tool written in Go [1], which simplifies meshes in STL files.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The instructions that follow are for Linux (Debian).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, make sure Go is installed on your system. Then install &lt;code&gt;simplify&lt;/code&gt; with:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;go install  github.com/fogleman/simplify/cmd/simplify@latest&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This will install to &lt;code&gt;~/go/bin/simplify&lt;/code&gt;. Now simplify your mesh with:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;# Reduce mesh to 10% of original size.&#xA;~/go/bin/simplify -f 0.1 input.stl output.stl&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you need to convert your 3D model to STL first, take a look at &lt;code&gt;openctm-tools&lt;/code&gt; [2].&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;# Install OpenCTM tools.&#xA;sudo apt install openctm-tools&#xA;&#xA;# Convert PLY to STL.&#xA;ctmconv intput.ply output.stl&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[1] &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/fogleman/simplify&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://github.com/fogleman/simplify&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[2] &lt;a href=&quot;https://openctm.sourceforge.net/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://openctm.sourceforge.net/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="34224" LastActivityDate="2024-03-14T08:59:16.573" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23142" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20702" CreationDate="2024-03-14T16:50:21.200" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Perhaps it's due to your G-code, it doesn't look like you modified that either. The start and end G-code for the Flashforge printers can be grabbed from the G-code file, just open it up using notepad.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a Flashforge Guider 3 Ultra, but haven't tested it with Cura yet. Found your article while doing research, it looks like most people just bear with their proprietary software &amp;quot;Flashprint&amp;quot;. Having found some issues with it myself, I'll be testing how well Cura works in the next few days.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="42740" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2024-03-14T17:19:42.680" LastActivityDate="2024-03-14T17:19:42.680" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23143" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20702" CreationDate="2024-03-14T18:25:45.183" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to their own website (the FAQ), you &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.flashforge.com/faq-detail/use-slicers-with-Flashforge-3d-printers#:%7E:text=FAQ-,Can%20I%20use%20other%20slicers%20with%20Flashforge%203d%20printers%2C%20say,Slicer%2C%20Simplify3D%2C%20etc.%3F&amp;amp;text=Yes%2C%20you%20can.,parameter%20setting%20in%20those%20slicers.&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;can ask&lt;/a&gt; for the settings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Can I use other slicers with Flashforge 3d printers, say Cura, Prusa Slicer, Simplify3D, etc.?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Yes, you can. Except for Flashforge Official slicer, Flashforge 3D printer is also compatible with other slicers. But you need to adjust some parameter setting in those slicers. Contact our support team for help.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2024-03-14T18:25:45.183" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23144" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18428" CreationDate="2024-03-15T09:58:18.523" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, a 3D scanner is capable of capturing internal details within an enclosure. However, the quality of the scan may depend on the specific model and settings used. It is always best to research and read reviews before making a purchase to ensure it will meet your needs. As for the picture you provided, it is possible to generate a usable STL file by scanning it with a 3D scanner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="42748" LastActivityDate="2024-03-15T09:58:18.523" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23145" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18428" CreationDate="2024-03-15T13:54:48.970" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, 3D scanners can do that, provided that all surfaces are in sight of the scanner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Within our company we scan complex turbomachinery parts (e.g. &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Impeller&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;impellers&lt;/a&gt;) using a robotic arm with 3D scanner and a rotating platform to scan the whole surface of the parts to compare used parts to new parts and evaluate if they can be used for another maintenance interval.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2024-03-15T13:54:48.970" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23146" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2024-03-15T15:06:24.613" Score="1" ViewCount="29" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm responsible for a MakerLab in an engineering school, equipped with a diverse set of 3D printers: 5x Prusa MK3s+, 2x Prusa MK4, 2x Bambulab X1 Carbon, and 1x Formlab. Students currently initiate prints via USB/SD card on a shared PC. We're aiming to streamline this process by implementing a simple, centralized interface to manage all printers, view print histories, and start jobs. An ideal solution would also enable students to check print statuses from their mobile devices.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So far, I've explored Repetier Server, Octoprint, Prusa Connect, and Prusa Link. However, challenges have arisen:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Repetier Server seems to require specific firmware, posing compatibility issues with our Bambulabs;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Octoprint suggests running separate instances for each printer, which complicates centralization;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;While the Prusa MK3s+ could integrate with a Raspberry Zero, this doesn't solve our need for a unified interface.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Specific Requirements&lt;/strong&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Centralized control for all listed printers&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ability to view print history&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Facilitation of print job initiation&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mobile accessibility for students to monitor prints&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given these constraints and goals, does anyone have experience with or can recommend a solution that fits this setup? Any advice or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6Ei9S.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Photo of MakerLab#1&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6Ei9S.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Photo of MakerLab#1&quot; title=&quot;Photo of MakerLab#1&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YCxhW.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Photo of MakerLab#2&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YCxhW.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Photo of MakerLab#2&quot; title=&quot;Photo of MakerLab#2&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sPgDB.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Photo of MakerLab#3&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sPgDB.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Photo of MakerLab#3&quot; title=&quot;Photo of MakerLab#3&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18785" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2024-03-15T18:33:43.810" LastActivityDate="2024-03-17T02:43:19.027" Title="Seeking a Centralized Interface Solution for Managing Multiple 3D Printers in a MakerLab" Tags="|software|octoprint|repetier|bambu|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23147" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2024-03-15T19:30:14.447" Score="4" ViewCount="39" Body="&lt;p&gt;The extruder gears on my Ender 3D printer v.4.1 occasionally reverse direction when feeding the PLA filament, as if testing it by trying to pull it out, then resume the correct direction and continue proper feeding. So far there is no effect on the quality of the prints.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the purpose of this occasional momentary reverse action, and is it to be expected?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="41224" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2024-03-15T20:01:17.957" LastActivityDate="2024-03-16T17:14:45.040" Title="Extruder occasionally reverses direction" Tags="|extruder|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23148" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23147" CreationDate="2024-03-15T22:40:52.763" Score="3" Body="&lt;h3&gt;What is it?&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This reversal of the gear direction is perfectly normal, and is called &lt;strong&gt;retraction&lt;/strong&gt;. It is basically a &lt;em&gt;recoil movement&lt;/em&gt; of the filament.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Retraction (generally) occurs when the extruder effects movement and displacement from one part of a print to another. It is to prevent the molten filament from dripping unnecessarily all over the print and the print bed - otherwise known as &lt;em&gt;stringing&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In short, it is perfectly normal behaviour and nothing to worry about.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Additional information&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;h4&gt;Retraction towers&lt;/h4&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that you can check that your retraction is fine by printing &lt;em&gt;retraction towers&lt;/em&gt;, such as this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/e6qAz.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Retraction towers&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/e6qAz.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Retraction towers&quot; title=&quot;Retraction towers&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sub&gt;Image source: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.reddit.com/r/FixMyPrint/comments/rcptu0/persistent_stringing_with_retraction_tower/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Persistent Stringing with Retraction Tower&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h4&gt;Parameters&lt;/h4&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a number of parameters that can affect retraction, and these include:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Retraction distance&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Retraction speed&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Minimum displacement&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Enable combining&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Z-axis elevation when retracted (Lift z)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can adjust some, or all, of these parameters should your retraction not be &amp;quot;up to scratch&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, this is going beyond the scope of your question, so I won't cover them here. Moreover, as haven't mentioned that your prints are failing, then it is probably best if you don't change these settings - unless you have to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h4&gt;Further reading&lt;/h4&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are many online resources about retraction. Some suggested reading:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://reprap.org/wiki/Retraction_Tuning_With_Slic3r&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Retraction Tuning With Slic3r&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://blog.prusa3d.com/slic3r-and-marlin-configuration-for-reprap-firmware-retraction-2_3686/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Slic3r and Marlin configuration for RepRap FW retraction&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://filament2print.com/gb/blog/34_retraction-in-3d-printing.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;What is retraction in 3D printing? Definition and adjustments&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4762" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2024-03-16T17:14:45.040" LastActivityDate="2024-03-16T17:14:45.040" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23149" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23146" CreationDate="2024-03-16T23:17:51.787" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;For a printer to be controlled from a distance, the printer needs an advanced controller board or a dedicated controller board and a small interfacing board. Most printers have just a simple controller board, not being able to perform other tasks than sending G-codes to the printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ultimaker printers have an advanced controller with enough performance to do more than just send G-codes, it also hosts a printing server host. You can connect to the Ultimaker cloud to access the individual printers and manage and browse through (un) finished prints.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There seems to be a solution for other printers, an example for Lulbotz printers, stacked in a farm is managed by software found on &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.3dque.com/autofarm3d&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;AutoFarm3D&lt;/a&gt;. Note that you are required to run a Separate Raspberry Pi 4 board next to the simple controller board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whether this operates with the Prusa MK4 printers is unknown, supported are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Recommended 3D Printers&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bambu Lab X1/X1C&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bambu Lab P1P/P1S&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bambu Lab A1 Mini&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bambu Lab A1 (coming soon!)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Prusa MK3/S/+&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Prusa MINI&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Artillery Sidewinder X1/X2&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Artillery Genius/Pro&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Creality Ender 3 S1&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Creality Ender 3/Pro/V2&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Creality CR10/V2/V3&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2024-03-17T02:43:19.027" LastActivityDate="2024-03-17T02:43:19.027" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23150" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2024-03-17T00:36:38.620" Score="2" ViewCount="71" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had fairly good prints until recently. Now, every print has the loops and such below. Inland PETG and Bambu PETG have the same issues. I know it is going to be some small, simple setting, but after a spool of failed prints, I'm starting to lose my mind. It is a P1P Bambu printer with a 0.8 mm nozzle and either Inland PETG or Bambu PETG. I am using a dehumidifier/drying dock running almost constantly (I live on the Texas Gulf Coast, meaning humidity). I've tried print temps from 235-255 °C and heated bed from 75-80 °C (Textured plate)).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/J4Gv8.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Photo of two identical models with layers not adhering or poorly extruded&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/J4Gv8.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Photo of two identical models with layers not adhering or poorly extruded&quot; title=&quot;Photo of two identical models with layers not adhering or poorly extruded&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kajyE.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Photo of one of the printed models with poorly extruded bottom and top&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kajyE.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Photo of one of the printed models with poorly extruded bottom and top&quot; title=&quot;Photo of one of the printed models with poorly extruded bottom and top&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JFopW.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Photo of a temperature tower where the underside of every bridge is drooping down&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JFopW.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Photo of a temperature tower where the underside of every bridge is drooping down&quot; title=&quot;Photo of a temperature tower where the underside of every bridge is drooping down&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NmDSL.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Another photo of a temperature tower where the numbers on the side are not legible due to poor extrusion&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NmDSL.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Another photo of a temperature tower where the numbers on the side are not legible due to poor extrusion&quot; title=&quot;Another photo of a temperature tower where the numbers on the side are not legible due to poor extrusion&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="41395" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2024-03-17T02:40:56.117" LastActivityDate="2024-03-22T14:01:08.880" Title="Bambu Labs P1P printing looping" Tags="|print-quality|troubleshooting|stringing|bambu-lab-p1p|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23151" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2024-03-17T07:48:28.620" Score="1" ViewCount="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;We need to drive 10 motors for our 3D printer. My doubt here is, RAMPS offer only one driver position for X, Y, Z. But I need multiple X, Y, Z. Is there any possible way to achieve this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="42765" LastActivityDate="2024-03-17T09:49:22.713" Title="Can RAMPS V1.4 with DRV8825 drivers run 10 motors?" Tags="|diy-3d-printer|ramps-1.4|stepper-driver|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23152" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23151" CreationDate="2024-03-17T09:49:22.713" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;RAMPS is getting pretty outdated and is nothing more than a shield on top of the relative simple and limited ATMega 2560 microcontroller. Nowadays, 32-bit microprocessors are more common, more powerful and have more pins to be used for various tasks, like running multiple steppers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, you could use several RAMPS boards if you acquire a Raspberry Pi to run Klipper printer software, Klipper can control multiple RAMPS boards from the Raspberry Pi.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2024-03-17T09:49:22.713" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23153" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6558" CreationDate="2024-03-17T19:03:22.560" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use the &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprintingwiki.mywikis.wiki/wiki/Spool_weight&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;3D Printing Wiki's Spool Weight page&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="42767" LastActivityDate="2024-03-17T19:03:22.560" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23154" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6558" CreationDate="2024-03-17T23:58:56.357" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Extracting the data from the table linked to in &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/23153/4762&quot;&gt;Damien's answer&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;div class=&quot;s-table-container&quot;&gt;&lt;table class=&quot;s-table&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;thead&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;th&gt;Manufacturer&lt;/th&gt;&#xA;&lt;th&gt;Flavor (type, size, etc)&lt;/th&gt;&#xA;&lt;th&gt;Year&lt;/th&gt;&#xA;&lt;th&gt;Spool Weight, g&lt;/th&gt;&#xA;&lt;th&gt;Comment&lt;/th&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;/thead&gt;&#xA;&lt;tbody&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;123-3D&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;198&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;3DActive&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;PLA, 0,5kg&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;2021.0&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;195 g&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Spool by Häfner , model: SD 200/52-43K , Diameter=200 Width=44 CoreDiameter=52&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;3D Online&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;227&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;3D Ware&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;211&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;3D-Fuel&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;PLA, 1 KG&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;2021.0&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;262&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Ribbed style sides. Very consistent weight across 7 tested spools. This is just under their claimed weight of 265g.&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;3D-Fuel&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;PLA, 1 KG&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;2021.0&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;288-294&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Solid style sides. Weight ranged across 3 samples.&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;3D Fuel&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;264&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;3DFIL&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;1kg&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;235 g&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Diameter=200, Width=63, Core diam=54&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;3dJake&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;250g&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;108 g&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Diameter=140, Width=44, Core diam=51&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;3dJake&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;TPU 750g&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;212 g&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Diameter=200, Width=51, Core diam=53&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;3dJake&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;1kg&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;240 g&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Diameter=200, Width=75, Core diam=52&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;3dJake&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;2.3kg&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;605 g&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Diameter=300, Width=103, Core diam=51.5&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;3dJake&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;4kg&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;870 g&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Diameter=350, Width=110, Core diam=51.5&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;3dJake&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;8kg&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;1045 g&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Diameter=355, Width=182, Core diam=36&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;3DO&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;PETG, 1kg&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;2023.0&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;255 g&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;3d Online&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;PLA 1kg&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;208 g&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Diameter=198, Width=70, Core diam=57&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Abfil&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;750g/1kg&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;248 g&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Diameter=200, Width=67, Core diam=53&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;AIO Robotics&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;PLA 500g V1&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;115&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;AIO Robotics&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;PLA 500g V2&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;210&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Amolen&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;190&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Amolen rev.2&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;2023.0&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;148&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;AmazonBasics&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;PLA, Silk PLA&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;2023.0&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;264&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Amazon Basics&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;1kg&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;200 g&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Diameter=200, Width=75, Core diam=53&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;AMZ3D&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;PETG, 1kg&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;2022.0&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;230.6 g&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Diameter=200, Width=65, Core diam=55&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;AMZ3D&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;PLA, 1kg&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;2018.0&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;230 g&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Diameter=200, Width=65, Core diam=55&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Anet&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;1kg PLA&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;226 g&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Diameter=200, Width=65, Core diam=56&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Arianeplast&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;750g&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;224 g&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Diameter=200, Width=45, Core diam=55&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Arianeplast&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;1kg&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;226 g&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Diameter=200, Width=65, Core diam=55&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Arianeplast&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;2,3k&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;680 g&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Diameter=300, Width=100, Core diam=55&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Atomic Filament&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;PLA, 1kg&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;2015.0&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;319&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;AzureFilm&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;PLA, 1kg&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;2021.0&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;163&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Older design, they have a new one for 2022&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;AzureFilm&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;1000g (and 750g wood), black with small Cores&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;2023.0&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;220&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Source: AzureFilm customer support&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Basicfil&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;PLA, 500g&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;2021.0&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;187&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Bambulab&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;1KG White plastic&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;2023.0&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;207 g&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Cardboard ring in center weights 36 g so total weight is 243 g&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Basicfil&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;1kg&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;225 g&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Diameter=200, Width=80, Core diam=50.5&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;CC3D&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;164&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;CC3D&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;PLA MAX&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;2021.0&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;153&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Diameter=198, Width=64, Core diam=53&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Clas Ohlson&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;PLA, 1kg&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;2021.0&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;175&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;old spool design?&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Cookiecad&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;PLA&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;177&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Comgrow&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;207&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Coex LLC&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;PLA, 1kg&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;2020.0&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;335&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;COEX&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;PLA, 1 KG&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;2022.0&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;320&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;They are switching to cardboard soon.&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;ColorFabb&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;1kg&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;240 g&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Diameter=200, Width=66, Core diam=62&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;ColorFabb&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;2,3kg EcoPla&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;590 g&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Diameter=300, Width=100, Core diam=55&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Creality&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;1 Kg, old&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;141&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Creality&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;1 Kg, new&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;est. ~200-220&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;near identical design to newer Gembird spools&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Creality&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;CR-PLA(PLA+)&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;140&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Creality&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;1kg&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;138 g&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Diameter=200, Width=63, Core diam=54&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Creality&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;1kg Hyper ABS&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;2023.0&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;180 g&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Cardboard Spool, Diameter=200, Width=58, Core diam=88&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Creality&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;1kg Hyper PLA&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;2024.0&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;173 g&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Cardboard Spool, Diameter=200, Width=64, Hole diam=55&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Dagoma Chromatik&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;750g&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;204 g&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Diameter=200, Width=52&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Dayfil&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;1kg carton&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;190 g&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Diameter=200, Width=80, Core diam=56&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Devil Design&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;1kg plastic&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;257 g&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Devil Design&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;333g plastic&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;148 g&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Dikale&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;1kg&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;178&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Dikale&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Old&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;196&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Duramic 3D&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;cardboard&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;132&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Duramic 3D&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;1kg Cardboard&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;2022.0&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;136&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Diameter=200, Width=65, Core diam=55&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Duramic 3D&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;PLA+, 1kg&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;2022.0&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;236&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Diameter=200, Width=67, Core diam=55&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Elegoo&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;PLA, 1 KG&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;2022.0&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;171&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Cardboard Spool&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Eono (Amazon)&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;1kg&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;192&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Amazon&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;EPESTOEC&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;1KG Spool, PLA&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;2023.0&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;159g&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Black Spool, 5 Window&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Eryone&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;PLA 1kg&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;216 g&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Diameter=200, Width=64, Core diam=55&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Eryone&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;TPU 500g&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;190 g&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Diameter=200, Width=37, Core diam=53&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Eryone&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;1kg spool&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;186&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Eryone&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;PLA Marble, 1kg&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;2020.0&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;181&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Diameter=200, Width=63, Core diam=54&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Eryone&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Cardboard, 1kg&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;187&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;eSUN&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;PLA+, eMarble, eSilk, eTPU&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;242&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Weight is an average of 10 empty spools&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;eSUN&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;eSilk&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;2021.0&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;211&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;eSun&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Transparent&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;214-220 g&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Diameter=200, Width=60, Core diam=51&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;eSun&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;standard&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;230 g&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;eSun&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Réutilisable&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;160g&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Diameter=200, Width=65&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;eSun&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;1kg noire&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;250 g&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Diameter=200, Width=64, Core diam=54&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;eSun&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;500g transparent&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;203 g&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;eSun&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;500g noir&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;212 g&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;eSun&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;1.75mm PLA+ Grey&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;2023.0&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;633&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Diameter=269, Width=102, Core diam=53&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;eSun&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;1.75mm ePLA-ST Grey&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;2022.0&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;262&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Diameter=199, Width=65, Core diam=54&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;eSun&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;1.75mm PLA+ White&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;2022.0&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;266&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Diameter=200, Width=64, Core diam=54&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;eSun&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;1.75mm ePLA+HS Black Cardboard&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;2023.0&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;153&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Diameter=200, Width=63, Core diam=54&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Extrudr&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;PLA 1,1kg&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;240 g&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Diameter=200, Width=66, Core diam=62&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Extrudr&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;TPU 750g&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;228 g&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Diameter=200, Width=53, Core diam=53&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Extrudr&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Extrudr 2.5kg&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;590 g&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Diameter=300, Width=100, Core diam=55&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Fillamentum&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;233&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Craft Filament&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Filament-PM&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;500g Spool&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;205&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Filament-PM&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;1kg Spool&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;225&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;FilamentOne&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;220&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Flashforge&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;ABS, 1kg&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;2020.0&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;176&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Flashforge&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;PLA, 1kg&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;175&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Form Futura&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;rPLA, 750g&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;151&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Francemaker&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;1kg&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;205 g&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Diameter=200, Width=63, Core diam=52&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Francofil&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;500g&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;227 g&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Diameter=200, Width=55, Core diam=52&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Francofil&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;750g-1kg&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;246 g&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Diameter=200, Width=67, Core diam=52&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Francofil&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;5kg-10kg&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;1050 g&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Diameter=335, Width=245, Core diam=51&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Geeetech \ Giantarm&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;PLA 1kg spool&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;180&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Geeetech&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;1kg&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;183 g&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Diameter=195, Width=64, Core diam=64&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Gelo&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;1kg&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;186&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Giantarm&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;1kg&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;197 g&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Diameter=200, Width=65, Core diam=–&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Gizmo Dorks&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;1kg&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;156&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;GNVTNTP&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;TRICOLOR CoExtruded PLA 1KG&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;2022.0&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;156&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Cardboard Spool&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;GoHigh&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;1kg&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;127 g&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Diameter=194, Width=60, Core diam=72&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Grossiste3d&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;PLA 1kg&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;215 g&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Diameter=198, Width=65, Core diam=54&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Grossiste3d&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;PLA 500g&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;208 g&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Diameter=200, Width=35, Core diam=54&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;GST3D&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;PLA 1kg&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;200 g&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Diameter=196, Width=63, Core diam=52&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;GST3D&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;PLA 1Kg&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;212gr but other spools: 241gr&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;GST3D&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;207&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Hatchbox&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Old&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;224&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Hatchbox&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;PLA, 1kg&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;2020.0&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;245&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Diameter=200, Width=67, Core diam=55&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;HZST3D&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;1kg&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;177&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Inland&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;1kg&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;222&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Inland&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;500g&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;196&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Inland&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Reusable&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;205g, 240g*&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;*240g with the 35g inner tube left over from Inland 1kg PLA+ Refills&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Ice&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;750g&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;200 g&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Diameter=198, Width=56, Core diam=53&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Jayo&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;1KG Spool, PLA&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;2023.0&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;135g&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Cardboard&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;KIMYA&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;PETG-S, 750g&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;2023.0&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;242 g&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Kingroon&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;PLA, 1KG spool&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;2022.0&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;166.6g&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Machines3d&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;750g&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;203 g&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Diameter=200, Width=52, Core diam=53&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Maker Geeks&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;1kg&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;193 g&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Material4print&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;1Kg Spool PETG&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;2020.0&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;240 g&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Diameter=200, With=53, Core diam=54&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Markforged Onyx&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;800cc/960g&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;MatterHackers&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;build&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;250&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;MatterHackers&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;1kg PLA (MH Build)&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;2019.0&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;228&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;MatterHackers&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;build PLA&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;2022.0&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;213&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;MECH Solutions&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;PLA+, 1kg&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;2022.0&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;254&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Diameter=199, Width=63, Core diam=54&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;MiKA3D&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;PLA, 500 g&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;115 g&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Same spool as AIO Robotics 500g spool&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Nanovia&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;500g Spool&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;2014.0&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;255&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Nanovia&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;500g Spool&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;2021.0&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;182&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Nanovia&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;2kg Spool&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;2021.0&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;668&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Neofil&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;750g&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;210 g&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Diameter=199, Width=53, Core diam=53&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Novamaker&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;PLA, 1kg&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;180&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Numakers&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;PLA+, 1kg&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;200&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Octofiber&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;1kg&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;240 g&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Diameter=200, Width=55, Core diam=53&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Overture&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;type I (1 kg), PLA, PETG&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;2023.0&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;238&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Overture&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;type II&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;187&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Overture&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Cardboard&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;176&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Overture&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Cardboard 2023&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;170&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;OWL&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;PLA, 1kg&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;186-190&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Paramount 3D&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;1kg&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;208&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Plastika Trček&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;1kg&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;2019.0&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;218&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;PlastSpaw&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;0,7..1kg&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;200g&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Spool have smooth sides, Diameter=200 Width=66 CoreDiameter=50&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Proto-Pasta&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;100&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Prusa Research&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Prusament 300g Mini Spool&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;130&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Prusa Research&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Prusament, PLA, 1kg&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;193&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Diameter=200, Width=72, Core diam=50&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Prusa Research&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Prusament, PLA, 2kg&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;226-228.5&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Diameter=200, Width=123, Core diam=50&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Prusa Research&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Made for Prusa Research&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;234&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Polymaker&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Polycast, 750g&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;224&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Polymaker&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Polyterra 1KG&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;187&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Polymaker&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;PolyTerra PLA, 1 kg&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;2022.0&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;137&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Cardboard Spool, printed weight 140g&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Prima Value&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;1kg&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;245 g&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Diameter=200, Width=75, Core diam=53&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Prinsfil&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;1kg&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Diameter=200, Width=57, Core diam=78&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Printed Solid&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;PLA 1.75mm 1kg plastic spool&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;326&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Push Plastic&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;328&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Real Filament&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;1kg, cardboard&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;208&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;RECREUS&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;PETG, 750g&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;2023.0&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;232 g&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Replitech&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;PLA 1.81kg (4Lbs) 600M Spool&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;2022.0&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;178 g&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Spool size: 210mm diameter x 86mm width; Center Core: 52mm diameter&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Redline Filament&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;1kg&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;200 g&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Renkforce&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;PLA, 1kg&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;179&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Repkord&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;PLA&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;193&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Rosa3d&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;PLA-PETG-800g&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;231 g&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Diameter=200, Width=53, Core diam=53&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Rosa3d&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;800g transparente&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;242 g&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Diameter=?, Width=?, Core diam=?&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;RS Pro&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;1kg&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;237 g&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Diameter=200, Width=75, Core diam=53&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Sainsmart&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;TPU 800g&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;187 g&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Diameter=200, Width=62, Core diam=57&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Sainsmart&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;TPU 250g&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;108 g&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Diameter=155, Width=37, Core diam=54&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Sakata&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;1kg HR870&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;257 g&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Diameter=200, Width=66, Core diam=53&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;SIMAX3D&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;PLA 1kg&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;2020.0&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;202&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Diameter=200, Width=74, Core diam=53&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Smart Materials (Makershop)&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;PLA 750g&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;240 g&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Diameter=200, Width=53, Core diam=53&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Sunlu&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;150&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Sunlu&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;PLA+ 1kg&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;2023.0&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;132&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Sunlu&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;PLA+ 1kg&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;2023.0&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;155&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Sunlu&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;PLA+ old&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;145 g&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Sunlu&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;PETG 1kg&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;130 g&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Sunlu Masterspool&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;1kg&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;200 g&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Sunlu&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;133&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Sunlu&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;250g spool&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;55&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Steadytech&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;1kg&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;179&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;StrongHero3D&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;151&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Spectrum&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;247&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;3D Solutech&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;173&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;SK-Honpo&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;PLA, 1kg&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;2022.0&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;171&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Japanese distributor&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Stronghero3D&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Black Spool, 1 kg, 4 windows&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;2022.0&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;154&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Black Spool, 4 windows (with bars)&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Stronghero3D&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Black Spool, 1 kg, 5 windows&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;2022.0&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;123&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Black Spool, 5 windows&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Stronghero3D&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Clear Spool, 1 kg, 5 windows&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;2022.0&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;121&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Clear Spool, 5 windows&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Suntop&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;PLA, 1kg&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;2022.0&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;177&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Sparta ABS+&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;ABS+&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;2022.0&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;157&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Clear Spool&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;SOBV3D&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;1kg&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;210 g&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Diameter=199, Width=70, Core diam=51&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;SOBV3D&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;1kg Démontable&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;152 g&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Diameter=200, Width=71, Core diam=52&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;TecBears&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;133&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;seems to be Sunlu spool&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Thumwan&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;1kg&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;192 g&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Diameter=199, Width=66, Core diam=54&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Tianse&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;PLA, 1kg&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;2021.0&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;180&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Diameter=196, Width=60, Core diam=75&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Tinmorry&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;1kg&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;186 g&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Diameter=198, Width=65, Core diam=55&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Tinmorry&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;184&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Similar to Eryone&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Torwell3D&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;PLA, 1kg&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;2020.0&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;185&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;TTYT3D&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;PLA, 1kg&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;2022.0&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;173&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Similar to DO3D Spool&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;TTYT3D&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;1KG cardboard&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;2023.0&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;121 g&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Verbatim&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;PETG 1kg&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;238 g&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Diameter=200, Width=75, Core diam=52&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Voolt3D&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;PLA, 1kg&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;2022.0&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;209&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Brazilian manufacturer&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Voxelab&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;PLA Pro, 1kg&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;2022.0&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;172&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Voxelab&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;PLA, 1kg&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;2022.0&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;137&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Wanhao&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;1kg&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;239 g&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Diameter=195, Width=57&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Warhorse&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;133&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;seems to be Sunlu spool&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Yoyi&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;175g&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Yoyi&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;TPU&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;169 g&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Yuaneang&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;1kg PLA&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;2018.0&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;202 g&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Solid plastic spool.&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Zyltech&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;PLA, 1 KG&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;2022.0&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;94&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;5 Spoke plastic spool.&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Ziro&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;226&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Zortrax&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;800g&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;183 g&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Zortrax&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;1Kg&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;178 g&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tbody&gt;&#xA;&lt;/table&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Source: &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprintingwiki.mywikis.wiki/wiki/Spool_weight&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;3D Printing Wiki's Spool Weight page&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Table created using Github:&lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/greenonline&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;greenonline&lt;/a&gt;/&lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/greenonline/HTMLTableToMarkdown&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;HTMLTableToMarkdown&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4762" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2024-03-19T18:17:41.133" LastActivityDate="2024-03-19T18:17:41.133" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23155" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2774" CreationDate="2024-03-18T01:50:48.867" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are several options for printers that can produce high-quality 'minimes' at a lower cost. One option is the Formlabs Form 3, which has a maximum build volume of 14.5 x 14.5 x 18.5 cm and can print in color. Another option is the Prusa i3 MK3S, which has a build volume of 25 x 21 x 20 cm and can also print in color. Both of these printers have good resolution and can handle complex models. Another option is the Creality CR-10, which has a larger build volume of 30 x 30 x 40 cm and can print in color. However, it may have a slightly lower resolution compared to the other two options. These printers range in price from \$500 to \$1000, making them more affordable than the 'project 660'.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="42748" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2024-03-18T03:17:44.807" LastActivityDate="2024-03-18T03:17:44.807" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23156" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16753" CreationDate="2024-03-18T02:04:06.367" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, there are several software options that can help you convert your .par files to STL files in bulk. Some popular options include MeshLab, Netfabb, and 3D-Tool. These software programs allow you to batch convert your files, saving you time and effort. Additionally, GrabCAD also has a feature called the &amp;quot;Batch Print&amp;quot; tool that allows you to select multiple files and convert them to STL at once. You can access this feature by going to File &amp;gt; Batch Print. I hope this helps!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="42748" LastActivityDate="2024-03-18T02:04:06.367" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23160" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2024-03-18T06:58:06.707" Score="0" ViewCount="24" Body="&lt;p&gt;After an incident that caused a hole in the FEP and resin leakage, the screen now gives the same dark right side for all 3 test patterns. You can faintly see it split into 3 other sections but not as dark. It will not even attempt to print a file- just the same thing as the test patterns during every light cycle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There may or may not have been a piece of support or something in there that put pressure on the screen, but there are no visible cracks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Usually my screens fail differently. The clearly delimited sections of varying light brightness are a mystery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm thinking this is the screen and not the controller board or something else that is bad... Thoughts?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/h4amy.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/h4amy.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23643" LastActivityDate="2024-03-19T13:43:41.683" Title="Resin printer screen damage?" Tags="|resin|lcd-screen|anycubic-photon|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23161" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23160" CreationDate="2024-03-19T13:43:41.683" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have had the same with my Anycubic Photon. It was the screen itself that started delaminating and the contacts coming loose from the resin.&#xA;Replaced the screen and it fixed the issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4708" LastActivityDate="2024-03-19T13:43:41.683" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23162" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19057" CreationDate="2024-03-20T04:00:27.647" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Turns out I was just ruining the PETG parts that held the extruder gears. They didn't really melt but got soft and crept really badly. I replaced them with new parts everything was fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28896" LastActivityDate="2024-03-20T04:00:27.647" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23163" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23150" CreationDate="2024-03-20T04:24:15.190" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are indeed using the base profile that tops out at 250 mm/s and an 0.8 mm nozzle, it's probably insufficient cooling combined with print speeds that are too high. You'll need more cooling than 10 % even at lower speeds with an 0.8 mm nozzle. The large extrusions have more thermal mass and tend to cool slowly. As to why it specifically makes those &amp;quot;loops&amp;quot; instead of just sagging, the filament is probably not completely melted which will cause it to curl all over the place as it comes out of the nozzle. Slow down the prints to 15-20 mm³/s at the fastest and increase cooling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28896" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2024-03-22T14:01:08.880" LastActivityDate="2024-03-22T14:01:08.880" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23164" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22810" CreationDate="2024-03-20T04:55:45.500" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;After several months of trial and error with this filament, I finally managed to understand the issue.&#xA;It was a mechanical issue due to the filament sensor of the KP3S Pro.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The out of the box setup of the KP3S pro is with the filament roll being set on rollers and passed into a filament sensor to anticipate situations where filament is running out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KFGF8.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Out of the box setup for Kingroon KP3S&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KFGF8.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Out of the box setup for Kingroon KP3S&quot; title=&quot;Out of the box setup for Kingroon KP3S&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, this sensor applies pressure on the filament, and it creates a mechanical strain that prevents more elastic materials from being pushed through the extruder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In order to lessen the mechanical strain on the filament I mounted it over the machine with a spool holder, and stopped using the filament sensor when printing my eSun eLastic TPE 83-A. I found this video, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xHex0giqRxM&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Kingroon KP3S Pro Top Mount Spool Holder in Detail&#xA;&lt;/a&gt;, which uses a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4800129&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;KP3S spool mount model&lt;/a&gt; which can easily be adapted to the KP3S pro.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thus the filament feeds directly in the drive, and I have no problem printing this flexible filament.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iHN1V.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Top mount for the filament spool&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iHN1V.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Top mount for the filament spool&quot; title=&quot;Top mount for the filament spool&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I may (or may not) explore a bit more in the future to see if I can tinker with the pressure of the filament sensor so that I can take advantage of it also with flexible/elastic filaments. But for now I will be printing flexible filament without using the filament sensor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I won't go in detail about the parameters I used yet for this filament, because I am still exploring the best parameters for this filament. But this issue really was the core of my problem and I could already obtain very satisfactory results with my KP3S Pro printing this eSun TPE-83A.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40817" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2024-03-20T05:34:41.687" LastActivityDate="2024-03-20T05:34:41.687" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23165" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2024-03-20T12:37:21.967" Score="0" ViewCount="41" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been printing for a few months now and most of my prints end up pretty fine, but recently this started happening:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MOIRj.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Photo of a 3D printed model of a hand with stringing between the fingers and gaps on the fingers&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MOIRj.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Photo of a 3D printed model of a hand with stringing between the fingers and gaps on the fingers&quot; title=&quot;Photo of a 3D printed model of a hand with stringing between the fingers and gaps on the fingers&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I print on a Creality CR-10 Smart Pro with 1.75 mm PLA and a 0.4 mm nozzle at 200 °C nozzle temperature and 60 °C heatbed temperature. There's major stringing, and the supports and small printed structures like the fingers have big gaps, so technically that would mean it's both over- and underextruding? I tried adjusting the Z-axis. My print bed is probably bent down in the middle as per the sheet of paper leveling and I'm wondering if the x-axis isn't bent upwards, too. Nonetheless, I could still manage to print out some nice big parts until a few days ago and the print bed and x-axis being potentially bent is something I've noticed a while ago already.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tested the drive gear (sometimes it ticks mid-print, is that a sign that something's off?), and with manual in and out commands, the measured distance is equal to the requested distance, so that one doesn't seem to be broken. I cleaned my hot end, unscrewed everything, scrubbed off some molten PLA, changed the nozzle, and tightened the hot end back together with the relevant parts heated up to 260 °C. I tried cold-pulls, around 8 of them, heating up to 200 °C and pulling at 90 °C, using the same as usual white Creality PLA filament. I can't see any debris and the shape of the thing I pull out seems the same as what others find. Another 2 things that changed are a firmware update and an OrcaSlicer update (I sadly can't roll back to the old version to test if that's related).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At this point I honestly don't mind the stringing, it's just the holes that I want to fix. I can remove material in post-process, but it's a real pain to add some and the prints are really weak, too. One of the fingers just broke off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any quick way for me to send my OrcaSlicer printer, filament, and process settings so you can better help me with the issue? If there's a chance I might have missed something during one of my attempted solutions, what are typical things I could've missed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm going to try a filament dryer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I used the Sunlu FilaDryer S2 for around 12h on 55°C and it's not really better. Anyone got an idea?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="42797" LastEditorUserId="42797" LastEditDate="2024-03-23T08:28:30.833" LastActivityDate="2024-03-23T13:58:49.860" Title="PLA Print fail - Stringing and underextrusion" Tags="|creality-cr-10|underextrusion|stringing|direct-drive|drive-gear|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23167" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2024-03-21T12:59:05.367" Score="0" ViewCount="32" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not sure if the right place to ask this particular question but will try anyway. Currently trying to run a software as presented in the link here: &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/zhangty019/S3_DeformFDM&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;GitHub - zhangty019/S3_DeformFDM: S^3-Slicer: A General Slicing Framework for Multi-Axis 3D Printing&lt;/a&gt; and without success, ergo this post.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have been following the instructions provided in the GitHub repository to the point. The only difference in the execution has been that I am running it in VS22 instead of VS19 but this has been adjusted by the following: GKLLib/QMeshLib/ShapeLab &amp;gt; Right click &amp;gt; Properties &amp;gt; Configuration Properties &amp;gt; General &amp;gt; Platform Toolset &amp;gt; Visual Studio 2022 (v143).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A few initial errors have been presented after the initial build but that has been rectified by the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Specified paths of libraries and directories in the build files, specifically the ShapeLab. That has been done by the following process:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Solution explorer &amp;gt; ShapeLab &amp;gt; Properties &amp;gt; Configuration Properties &amp;gt; VC++ Directories &amp;gt; Include Directories &amp;gt; Edit &amp;gt; Include Directories &amp;gt; New Line &amp;gt; paste in directory path: &lt;code&gt;D:\oneAPI\mkl\2024.0\include&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and as well,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol start=&quot;2&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Solution explorer &amp;gt; ShapeLab &amp;gt; Properties &amp;gt; Configuration Properties &amp;gt; VC++ Directories &amp;gt; Library Directories &amp;gt; Edit &amp;gt; Include Directories &amp;gt; New Line &amp;gt; paste in directory path: &lt;code&gt;D:\oneAPI\mkl\2024.0\lib&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The software build process has now been brought to a halt by a single error presented below:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Severity Code Description Project File Line Suppression State Details&#xA;&#xA;Error LNK1181 cannot open input file 'D:\oneAPI\mkl\2024.0\lib.obj' ShapeLab D:\Documents\GitHub\githubTest\S3_DeformFDM\ShapeLab\LINK 1&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I search in the specified file with File Explorer I find that the lib is actually a folder with other subfolders inside of it and other &lt;code&gt;.obj&lt;/code&gt; files included. In contrast, there is no file by the name &lt;code&gt;lib.obj&lt;/code&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When searching the web not many helpful tips or tricks have been found so not sure what is to be done to fix this particular error.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know what could be done to fix this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="42812" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2024-03-28T18:56:01.423" LastActivityDate="2024-03-28T18:56:01.423" Title="How can I fix an error from building a 3D printing slicer software for a robotic arm based on a provided code from GitHub, getting an error LNK1181?" Tags="|slicing|software|printer-building|python|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23168" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23150" CreationDate="2024-03-22T07:21:49.423" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Several different methods can be tried to solve this problem;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1- The type of filament you use (PETG) is a material that holds more moisture. You should definitely check your fan settings according to the region you live in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2- I think you may have also reduced the retraction speed in the formation of the filament pile in the image. You are probably doing it to get a more uniform layer with a slow retraction, but the filament melting in the nozzle may have become leakage and formed piles at certain points.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But here especially because problems occur in the beginning and end layers;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3qPXQ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3qPXQ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3- Instead of reducing the retraction speed, you can better control the moisture content of the filament by changing the temperature between the layers. Higher temperature can vaporize the moisture in the filament and thus improve print quality.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Especially since the starting layer will cling to the ground, and act as a support structure, it can create leakage due to excessive moisture.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="38084" LastEditorUserId="38084" LastEditDate="2024-03-22T07:27:21.767" LastActivityDate="2024-03-22T07:27:21.767" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23169" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23165" CreationDate="2024-03-23T08:49:51.177" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You may want to tweak retraction parameters (retraction speed, retraction length), as well as, print speeds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maybe tweak these parameters and try to print one of these &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3212803&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;stringing tests&lt;/a&gt; with different parameters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the Z or X axis aren't moving during the print, they shouldn't be the issue, especially since your print seems to stick to the bed, and I wager that the smart in the name means that it has some auto bed-leveling function, and should therefore adjust for aberrations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40817" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2024-03-23T13:58:49.860" LastActivityDate="2024-03-23T13:58:49.860" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23170" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2024-03-23T11:01:51.720" Score="0" ViewCount="18" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been using my 3D printer for 3 years and it has been working very well for the past 6 months. I had never calibrated the bed even once in these 6 months because it was flat and had never been messed up. BLTouch has been working really well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Two weeks ago, I printed a very long print for the first time, about 48 hours long, and there were more to come. After that print, the bed calibration keeps getting messed up constantly, and even though I get a smooth first layer print, as I go up to the upper layers, it turns out like the picture shown.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have changed the nozzle many times, replaced the Teflon tube, and pushed it firmly into place. I also updated the bed springs, but it didn't fix the issue at all. I am using eSun PLA+ white. The 3D printer is an Ender 3v2 BLTouch updated. I would appreciate it if you could help me with this issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Nozzle temp: 200 °C-210 °C&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bed temp: 60 °C&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1sZPS.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1sZPS.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;1&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ww4ZP.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ww4ZP.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;2&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Txtnw.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Txtnw.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;3&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="42830" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2024-03-23T13:57:08.507" LastActivityDate="2024-03-23T13:57:08.507" Title="Ender 3v2 mid print extrusion issue" Tags="|extruder|bed-leveling|extrusion|nozzle|underextrusion|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23174" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6439" CreationDate="2024-03-25T19:31:54.393" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;sub&gt;If the user, &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/42858/thesmasheror&quot;&gt;TheSmasherOr&lt;/a&gt; (who suggested the edit) posts their own answer, then this wiki answer can be deleted&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From this (rejected) &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/review/suggested-edits/18955&quot;&gt;suggested edit&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There have been some new and interesting discoveries by Stefan Hermann on this subject; it seems that Hot Melt EVA Plastic can indeed be turned into a sort of Filament and used inside a 3d printer. This filament has to be oiled after melting as to not stick to itself and everything it touches.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After all of the conditions are met though it can be perfectly good to use in FDM 3D printers to make what you would normally make using one. although it is quite difficult to bridge and make overhangs due to the goopy nature of EVA.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More on this topic can be found in this ~19 minute video by Stefan Hermann of the CNC Kitchen YouTube channel:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/alwsRqh5W8M?start=0&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4762" LastActivityDate="2024-03-25T19:31:54.393" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2024-03-25T19:31:54.393" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23175" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20935" CreationDate="2024-03-25T19:37:20.913" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;sub&gt;If the user, &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/38284/illogical-consistency&quot;&gt;Illogical Consistency&lt;/a&gt; (who suggested the edit) posts their own answer, then this wiki answer can be deleted&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From this (rejected) &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/review/suggested-edits/18929&quot;&gt;suggested edit&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had to dig deep into several other websites and found out that I had to partition my newer 32gb usb with a FAT32 4096 partition and only put the .SH4 .CBD and .TXT files in the root. On then would the firmware update properly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/20935/resin-printer-lcd-breaks-if-layer-is-too-big/20945#comment39750_20945&quot;&gt;this comment&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I dug deep into several other websites and found out that I had to partition my newer 32gb usb with a FAT32 4096 partition and only put the .SH4 .CBD and .TXT files in the root. Then the firmware finally updated&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4762" LastActivityDate="2024-03-25T19:37:20.913" CommentCount="2" CommunityOwnedDate="2024-03-25T19:37:20.913" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23179" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2024-03-27T21:29:57.447" Score="3" ViewCount="27" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an STL file of a bone, and I want to create a mold to fill in with bone cement for a drilling exercise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, a midline cut through the mold doesn't work as the bone is atypically shaped. I would like to create a plane that follows either one of the bone's surfaces to create a mold that separates well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Shape of the bone&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/v7xP3.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Shape of the bone&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/v7xP3.png&quot; alt=&quot;Shape of the bone&quot; title=&quot;Shape of the bone&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This doesn't work, as you might expect:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wKjrV.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;This doesn't work, as you might expect&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wKjrV.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;This doesn't work, as you might expect&quot; title=&quot;This doesn't work, as you might expect&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It should look like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2QFR0.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;It should look like this&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2QFR0.png&quot; alt=&quot;It should look like this&quot; title=&quot;It should look like this&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Image source: The third photo from &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dprint.com/61320/cranioplasty-3d-printed-molds&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Cranioplasty Welcomes 3D Printed Molds for Reconstructive Surgery in Russia&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="42880" LastEditorUserId="4762" LastEditDate="2024-03-28T11:46:06.280" LastActivityDate="2024-03-28T11:46:06.280" Title="How can I create a mold for an atypical shape for 3D printing using Fusion 360?" Tags="|3d-models|fusion360|medical|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23181" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2024-03-28T11:50:57.693" Score="1" ViewCount="34" Body="&lt;p&gt;I understood on a fundamental level that E-value (in G-Code) was the length of filament pushed in millimetres. i.e. E=10 is 10 mm filament to push (with a firmware like Marlin translating this value to stepper motor RPM values).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is that a correct statement?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or does it sometimes indicate directly the RPM of steppers depending on a different firmware?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What happens to the E-value interpretation when working with a pellet extruder (such as a WASP3MT 3D printer) which uses spherical pellets and a screw extruder instead of filaments and stepper motors pushing said filament?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12999" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2024-04-03T11:11:51.313" LastActivityDate="2024-04-03T11:29:10.833" Title="Does the E-Value always define the filament length extrusion in millimeters and/or does it directly give a stepper rotation?" Tags="|marlin|g-code|extrusion|stepper|e-value|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23182" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2024-03-28T14:43:11.680" Score="3" ViewCount="50" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am building a DIY 3D printer, and my hw requirements are X, Y1, Y2, Z, and E0 steppers. All of them are supposed to be A4988. One hotend heater, no heatbed (by now). My board is an Arduino Mega 2560, and I am trying to use the latest Marlin available (i.e. 2.1.2.2). The issue is that I can't get any movement on the Y2 motor. I have been crawling around, and what I think I should have  is as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;in Configuration.h,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#define MOTHERBOARD BOARD_RAMPS_14_EFF &#xA;#define EXTRUDERS 1&#xA;#define Y2_DRIVER_TYPE A4988    //uncommented&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;in Configuration_adv.h&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;//#define Y_DUAL_STEPPER_DRIVERS&#xA;#if ENABLED(Y_DUAL_STEPPER_DRIVERS)&#xA;  #define INVERT_Y2_VS_Y_DIR true   // Set 'true' if Y motors should rotate in opposite directions&#xA;  //#define Y_DUAL_ENDSTOPS&#xA;  #if ENABLED(Y_DUAL_ENDSTOPS)&#xA;    #define Y2_USE_ENDSTOP _YMAX_&#xA;    #define Y_DUAL_ENDSTOPS_ADJUSTMENT  0&#xA;  #endif&#xA;#endif&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: the &lt;code&gt;#define Y_DUAL_STEPPER_DRIVERS&lt;/code&gt; statement &lt;strong&gt;has&lt;/strong&gt; to be left commented otherwise a compilation error is raised.&#xA;This is the situation. Of course, I have tested the cables/motors, and all of them are working.&#xA;Other posts on different blogs drove me to tweak the  &lt;code&gt;pins_RAMPS.h&lt;/code&gt; file, but I realized it was a waste of time.&#xA;Can you give me a hint? Otherwise, I will be forced to build an add-on nanocard hosting a couple of twin A4988 drivers, but the room on the RAMPS shield is so little. And I don't dare to drive two motors with a single A4988, I never tried but I know that A4988 are difficult guys.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="42887" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2024-04-04T12:06:45.327" LastActivityDate="2024-04-04T14:18:57.637" Title="Using dual Y stepper drivers on Marlin / RAMPS 1.4" Tags="|marlin|ramps-1.4|arduino-mega-2650|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23183" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2024-03-28T15:31:05.850" Score="2" ViewCount="74" Body="&lt;p&gt;I print with PLA with hotbed set to 60 °C. If I try to remove the print immediately after printing, the bottom part of the print might deform and keep the shape to which it was bent at the time of removal. If I don't remove the print immediately, and let the hotbed cool down, then the prints are perfectly flat when removed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At what temperature is it safe to remove PLA prints? Would it be okay to modify my G-code so that the bed heating is turned off approximately 10 minutes before the end of the print? Would it make any sense to append a &amp;quot;cooling routine&amp;quot; to the end of my G-code that would move X and Y around for some time with the fan at full speed and heating turned off?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="42890" LastEditorUserId="23193" LastEditDate="2024-03-29T03:03:44.010" LastActivityDate="2024-03-30T22:06:11.400" Title="At what bed temperature is it safe to remove PLA prints?" Tags="|pla|g-code|heated-bed|temperature|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23184" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23183" CreationDate="2024-03-28T17:26:32.153" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You haven't said what printer or bed you are using, or given any details of what kind of contact area you have with your print, so I'm only really able to give you a generic answer, but it will hold true for pretty much any consumer printer form an Ender E3 to a Bambu X1 and everything in between.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PLA is a very stable material that doesn't suffer badly from warping, which is one of the reasons why it's effectively the default for most printers these day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have a removable flex plate you can remove your print almost immediately after the printer has completed the print. I printed a model with an 8&amp;quot; flat square base at 60 degrees a couple of hours ago and was impatient. I flexed the bed within a minute of the print stopping and had zero warping. This is my normal experience. I've only had warping if I've done something weird.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just gently ease it off at a corner and you will be OK.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I were less impatient it would probably have released automatically after 2-3  minutes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm using the standard Bambu textured plate. For smooth PEI wait for the bed to cool for 5 minutes and it should release automatically as &amp;quot;sometimes&amp;quot; the cheaper smooth PEI beds can delaminate if you take the print off without them having cooled a little. Especially if they're cheap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;ABS is a different story.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unless you're doing something uncommon, there is no need to modify your GCode, your slicer will manage the bed for you in a way that's suitable for about 90% of prints for about 90% of people. Unless you have a really specific use case or a printer with a custom slicer profile, your system will already be tuned in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="29097" LastActivityDate="2024-03-28T17:26:32.153" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23185" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23183" CreationDate="2024-03-29T23:29:43.183" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The reason we use heat in our platforms is to lower the temperature difference between filament being laid down and already hardened filament as some filaments shrink when cooling down (ABS is notoriously known for a larger shrinkage percentage). The temperature we use for the heated bed is close to the glass temperature of the plastic we print, at this temperature, the plastic is malleable. Because it is soft, it can better cope with the stresses caused by the relative cooler layers on top of the layers close to the bed. This prevents warping and prints getting loose from the build plate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason for cooling down first after printing is to prevent the warm malleable first layers (as they have the bed temperature, especially with low height prints, or prints with a thin base) be deformed when removing from the build plate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The temperature at which it is safe to remove the parts (so they won't get permanently deformed by the removal process) depends on the filament type. It has to be well under the glass transition temperature; so that it has hardened enough that it cannot be bend and maintain that shape. So, when printing different materials, the temperature is different. Furthermore, this is also depending on the geometric shape of the print, a larger volume print object with a relative high height to volume ratio cannot deform as easily as low height to volume ratio prints.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From personal experience, I remove large height to volume ratio prints directly after printing (printing on glass with 3DLAC), a quick tap will generally remove the print. With small height to volume ratio prints, like name tags, I wait for the &lt;strong&gt;bed too cool to either the print gets loose by itself&lt;/strong&gt; (usually still temperature left in the bed) or &lt;strong&gt;the temperature has dropped to half the printing temperature difference&lt;/strong&gt; (somewhere between 30 to 40 °C).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because of the different materials and the print geometry, it is hard to device a strategy; some materials stick better (can also depend on the build surface). Cooling down the build plate before the print is finished is strongly discouraged, what if the print gets unstuck and the final layers are ruined on a long print? This waste of time and resources is not worth the few minutes to wait for the plate to cool down. &lt;strong&gt;If you cannot find the time to wait&lt;/strong&gt;, you should look into alternatives; &lt;strong&gt;a flexible steel bed&lt;/strong&gt; or &lt;strong&gt;multiple sheets of glass&lt;/strong&gt; where you can quickly empty or replace the bed surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2024-03-30T22:06:11.400" LastActivityDate="2024-03-30T22:06:11.400" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23186" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2024-03-30T15:25:25.280" Score="0" ViewCount="39" Body="&lt;p&gt;Imagine a thick-walled cylinder which is going to be 3D printed. I want to carve, say, ten identical detents in the top of the object, rotated around by 36 degrees. I know how to make one of these by creating a circle above the cylinder wall with the desired small arc reaching down into the top of the cylinder, and then remove extrude the circle. I want to avoid having to create ten of these super-carefully placed at 36 degrees from the another. Is there a way to rotationally replicate a sketch or extrude around a point or on a circle? I want to say something like: Do that thing again, at every 36° (or perhaps, ten times) around this circle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="42911" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2024-03-30T19:25:21.963" LastActivityDate="2024-04-01T15:13:28.903" Title="How to create multiple rotated detent-like cutouts in the of a cylinder in OnShape?" Tags="|cad|rotation|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
</posts>